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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="48" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:01:04.233" Score="8" ViewCount="30433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming I have no known mechanical problems, at what mileage should I replace the timing belt in a 2003 Honda Accord EX V6? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard 60,000 miles from some sources, but the manual seems to suggest around 90,000 &lt;em&gt;depending on driving conditions&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T02:23:36.410" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T04:40:51.480" Title="At what mileage should I replace the timing belt in a 2003 Honda Accord EX V6" Tags="|timing-belt|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:01:58.483" Score="8" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old '73 240-Z that I am fixing up in class.  Once I get it running, will I need to add something to the gas?  I know that old cars ran on leaded fuel, the lead lubricating the parts as it ran.  But leaded fuel is no longer available, as it was an environmental disaster. &#xA;Is there a way of running it on un-leaded gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T04:45:55.697" Title="Subsitute for Leaded Gas" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:02:04.927" Score="7" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, a guy came and crashed into my vehicle's front door in the parking lot. My vehicle now has a small but easily noticeable dent. Is there a way to remove the dent in a easy and really cheap way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T06:06:09.850" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T06:06:09.850" Title="How to remove a small dent in the front door of the car?" Tags="|dent|door|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-03-07T22:27:47.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="189" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:03:41.593" Score="17" ViewCount="54374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm changing the rear brake discs and pads on my Ford Focus C-MAX. I've done one side which was fairly easy, but on the other side I can't get the disc off. There is nothing holding it on as far as I can see but it won't budge. I can't pull it too hard because I don't want the car to fall off the jack, and I'm reluctant to hit it too hard with a hammer in case I damage the wheel bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any body have any ideas about how I can get it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been hammering and bashing and levering, but the damn thing still won't budge. Thanks for all the tips, but are there any more ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="16" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T23:03:18.497" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T03:50:17.733" Title="How can I remove a seized brake disc?" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="65" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:03:49.253" Score="9" ViewCount="6437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 VW Golf and the internal fan motor that blows the a/c &amp;amp; heat will start to 'chirp' (sound something like a bird singing) randomly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the fan blade needs to be lubricated, but I have no clue how to go about accessing the blade's location since it is somewhere inside the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to spray something like WD40 inside the air intake for the ventilation system to calm the chirps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T00:15:24.397" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T02:44:04.357" Title="how can I quiet a 'chirping' ventilation fan motor blade?" Tags="|noise|hvac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:03:59.530" Score="13" ViewCount="2113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to drain the brake fluid for my 1999 BMW K1200RS with ABS in order to do some minor service on the Master Cylinder, but I don't have a service manual for the bike.  How should I go about doing this, and what are the things I need to watch for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, presumably, at some point I'll need to put brake fluid back in the bike.  How do I do this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T20:56:31.843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:04:33.510" Title="How do I drain the brake fluid for a 1999 BMW K1200RS?" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|bmw|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:05:02.683" Score="26" ViewCount="140146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a timing chain (as opposed to timing belt) need any specific maintenance? In particular I'm talking about a BMW Z4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastEditorUserId="1152" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T00:37:47.763" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T18:38:41.500" Title="Does a timing chain need maintenance?" Tags="|bmw|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:05:14.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suction is the answer. You can buy a suction grip in a hardware store, but if the dent is shallow enough (ie pushed in rather than really dented) a toilet plunger might do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:05:14.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="95" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:05:39.730" Score="7" ViewCount="7248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have managed to completely fry the regulator/rectifier on my Suzuki GSXR600 (K7). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it happened when I blindly splashed into a big water pond, some water probably got on the connector. But it is not really possible to avoid that as I use my motorcycle to commute every single day, rain or shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that GSXR's have this issue all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you look after your regulator/rectifier? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you unplug it and let it vent every couple of months? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you add some additional protection?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:01:33.047" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T11:34:43.437" Title="Suzuki GSXR600 (K7) - Burned regulator/rectifier" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|gsxr|rectifier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:06:47.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though we all laughed at him, a friend used the As-Seen-On-TV Suction cup dent puller and it actually popped the dent in his quarter panel.  It is not perfect, but it did it to his satisfaction.  You could also take the inside door panel off to be able to push it from the other side as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:06:47.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:07:22.070" Score="13" ViewCount="39153" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck is reporting a code P0420, which apparently is &quot;Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)&quot; which can either be the catalytic converter or the rear O2 sensor.  The code came on at about 30k miles, so I doubt it's the converter.  So my question is, is there a way I can test the O2 sensor without a &quot;scan&quot; tool or oscilloscope?  I'd rather not have to buy a new O2 sensor just to see if the old one is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a 5.7L Hemi V8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T03:43:36.510" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T07:45:50.100" Title="2005 Dodge Ram: Easy way to diagnose code P0420?" Tags="|cel|dodge|dtc|p0420|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:08:17.890" Score="62" ViewCount="10011" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daily commute changed from 9 miles to 9 feet when I started working remotely.  That means I very rarely drive my car much.  After a particularly hectic month, I didn't drive for about 4 weeks and the car's battery had died the next time I came to drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what should I do to keep the car in good, running condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can keep the battery charged? Are trickle chargers recommended?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How about oil? Should I make sure I take the car for a reasonable drive every week? Two weeks? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other aspects of the car should I keep in mind?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Thanks to all who've answered to date.  I've upvoted everyone, and am accepting Patrick's answer as the most informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Also of interest to this topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/119/how-long-does-it-take-for-gas-to-go-bad&quot;&gt;How long does it take for gas to go bad?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:50:54.933" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:50:54.933" Title="How to maintain a sometimes-used vehicle?" Tags="|battery|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:08:44.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience when removing the old type of brake hubs you would need to hit quite hard without that hurting the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try spraying the disc with WD-40 and let that soak in for a bit and then knocking it again with a hammer. You would wan't to spray mostly around the bolts that fasten the wheel since there is most likely some corosion there that is making the disc stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:08:44.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:09:20.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a smaller hammer. What I mean is that a smaller hammer won't damage things like bearings, but it might get the disk to vibrate and shake loose.&#xA;Otherwise a small masonry chisel inserted into the right crack and tapped quite gently could move the disk in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:09:20.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:10:09.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming there is not a screw holding it on (your experience with the other side tells you this), just give it a solid smack with a hammer. When I worked for Mercedes, it was not uncommon to need a 2-lb sledge to knock the disc loose. We would use two hands and swing really hard sometimes.. never heard of a messed up bearing from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this assumes you aren't reusing the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't pressed for time, you can &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; spraying some penetrating oil around the hub and let it sit for awhile. It's questionable whether this will really penetrate far enough to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are putting on the new disc, use some anti-seize around the hub to help prevent the same issue in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for your update:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't be shy. Smack the heck out of the rotor from the front and the back (if you can, sometimes the back is covered by a shield). Hitting it on the front face may seem counterintuitive, but it may jar it the right way to get it loose. Also, carefully aim for the outside edges of the disc. This applies more leverage compared to the center hub, which is where it's seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a real hammer.. a 2 -5 lb mini-sledge. A regular claw hammer isn't going to cut it. Swing that sucker with both arms like you are batting in baseball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-check for a screw in the center area around the hub. Some manufacturers use a screw to hold the rotor in place while they build the car. The other side may have been missing this screw for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Wear safety glasses! You should be doing this anyways, but in particular, when you hammer at the edges of a rotor, bits of metal will come flying off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T17:56:08.300" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T17:56:08.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:11:11.600" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can buy additives that can be mixed with unleaded fuel. I found a list suitable products on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/fuel/LRP.html&quot;&gt;AA website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suitable additives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are several proprietary&#xA;  lead-replacement additives available&#xA;  for 'DIY' dosing of unleaded petrol –&#xA;  these will increasingly be found in&#xA;  accessory shops and filling stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additives have been in use in Germany,&#xA;  Austria, Switzerland and New Zealand&#xA;  for some years with no reports of&#xA;  problems, though there are&#xA;  reservations about the effect of a&#xA;  sodium based product on turbo-charger&#xA;  blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additives may be phosphorus, sodium,&#xA;  potassium or manganese based – and are&#xA;  quite satisfactory used at the correct&#xA;  dosing rates in appropriate vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The following fuel additives were&#xA;  found satisfactory in engine&#xA;  durability tests set up by the British&#xA;  Historic Vehicle Clubs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;* Millers VSP Plus, (manganese)&#xA;  Millers Oils Ltd. Freephone 0800 281 053&#xA;* Red Line Lead Substitute, (sodium)&#xA;  Delta Oil Ltd. 01476 861 195&#xA;* Superblend Zero Lead, (potassium)&#xA;  Superblend Lubricants Ltd. 0116 291 1700&#xA;* Castrol Valvemaster &amp;amp; Valvemaster Plus (phosphorus)&#xA;  Castrol Ltd. 01793 452 222&#xA;* Carplan Nitrox 4-Star (potassium) &amp;amp; 4-Lead (manganese)&#xA;  Carplan Ltd. 0161 764 5981&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, it's best to choose one&#xA;  product and stay with it, though some&#xA;  inter-mixing will be inevitable at&#xA;  times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where the vehicle manufacturer&#xA;  originally recommended the use of, for&#xA;  instance, one tank of leaded petrol to&#xA;  four tankfulls of unleaded, if you are&#xA;  using an additised fuel the additive&#xA;  should be used in every fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:11:11.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:11:12.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked at Gunk or other similar products? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autobarn.net/chm50-12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Autobarn lead substitute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:11:12.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:11:52.893" Score="8" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;How on earth do I remove unsightly scratches from my paint work?  There are plenty and are down to the white undercoat. How do I remedy them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:50:37.140" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:50:37.140" Title="Scratches - both light and deep" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:11:54.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there is no way to run a vehicle designed for leaded gas to run on unaltered unleaded gas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores sell lead additive to be used in unleaded gas for older cars that require leaded gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:11:54.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:14:19.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm used to timing chains on American V8's, but they will &quot;stretch&quot; over time (think 200k miles) and sometimes on high mileage engines they could &quot;jump&quot; a tooth if they are too stretched out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they do not require any maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:14:19.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:15:25.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't spray oil into the vents. It'll likely make the air stink for awhile without helping anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times the fan is accessible by removing a panel under the passenger side dash (right above where their feet would be). This may be the same location as a dust filter on some cars. If the fan is accessible in this area, you can try some lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to keep lubricating it over time, and it's up to you whether it's worth the hassle vs. paying for/installing a new fan for a longer-term solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:15:25.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:16:14.090" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trickle charger is a good idea.  It maintains the battery so it doesn't go through large charge/discharge cycles, which damages the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also change the oil at six months whether the mileage is over your limit or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:16:14.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:17:39.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only answer definetively about the battery, most batteries lose some charge when not in use, but in order to minimize that you might have a circuit breaker (switch) installed that enables you to disconnect the battery from the car's electrical system when the car is not in use. When the car is not in use for any period the electrical system is still running, kepping clocks and such up to date, so disconnecting the battery should keep the charge a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:17:39.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:18:21.107" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule(s) of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive the car once a week, long enough to get the engine to normal operating temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the oil every 3,000 miles, or since you are not driving much, every 3 months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your car stays stationary for very long times you need to be concerned about dry rot or the rubber on the tires, but if you follow #1, you won't need to worry about this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About once a month drive the car for an extended time (&gt;30 minutes), there can be water accumulation on sensors and exhaust as well as rust on brake rotors.  You want to heat up the entire car including engine &amp;amp; exhaust system to evaporate any condensation to prevent rust buildup and clean the brake rotors to maintain the ability to stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the gas in the tank will be there for more than a month you need to put a gas stabilizer in the tank (à la STA-BIL) so that the gas does not degrade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T02:54:16.550" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T02:54:16.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:18:58.330" Score="9" ViewCount="1973" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you prevent your visor from fogging? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a pinlock today for my HJC helmet, but had read some good things about NEC pinkstick (some kind of wax for visor). Usually I just keep the visor open a bit, but during rain that is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:49:53.387" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:49:53.387" Title="Preventing visor from fogging" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:20:57.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light scratches can be polished and buffed out.  I won't detail how to do it here, you can find many tutorials online, but be careful - you CAN burn paint by polishing too hard or staying in one spot too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deep scratches can only be repaired by painting.  Your local dealership will be able to sell you a paint bottle that matches your factory color (assuming you have a late model vehicle).  Once you fill in the scratch with new paint, use a very fine grit sandpaper (2000-3000) with water to level it out, then polish &amp;amp; buff as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:20:57.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:22:04.723" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trickle-charger is highly recommended. Lead-acid batteries don't hold up very well to draining to low levels and jump-starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to drive it every couple of weeks if you can. The biggest problem is all of the rubber seals depend on staying wet with oil to hold up over time. If they dry out, they will leak. That being said, modern materials have come a long way, and this probably isn't as big of a deal as it used to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on your tires. The rubber will wear quickly for the same reason above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:22:04.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="64" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:23:43.270" Score="7" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has factory fitted uprated shocks, lower and stiffer than the usual ones, and I find that despite not abusing them I go through the back set every 30-35,000 miles. As new ones are quite expensive, I am interested to know whether there are simple things I can do at home that don't require a hoist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't adjustable, just the Subaru own 2006 STi shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any useful ideas gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:48:29.773" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:48:29.773" Title="Shocks and dampers - what can I do to prolong their life through home maintenance?" Tags="|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:27:16.513" Score="9" ViewCount="2487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that the car recommends Mobil 1 Synthetic oil as per the logo on the oil cap, how can I be sure the garage that did the oil change poured the recommended oil and not another low cost oil to save money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:47:52.237" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:47:52.237" Title="How can I know if the right oil has been added to the vehicle?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:29:23.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've diagnosed this condition many times with a vehicle-specific scan tool, and I don't think it can be done without this or an oscilloscope. O2 sensors work in the range of less than 1 volt (.2v to .7v) In particular, the rear O2 sensor should stay at a fairly constant .5v if the cat is working right. Wild swings to the extremes indicate the cat isn't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage fluctuates rapidly and is so small that a normal DVOM won't work well (it will average the readings). I suppose a analog meter with a small enough scale may work, but you'd have to pierce the insulation, as all of the wires have to stay plugged in for reference voltage purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that it's an intermittent problem, in which case historical data and real-time data while driving the car becomes important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gas analyzer would tell you about the efficiency of the cat, but that's even more of a hassle than a scan tool..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: If you have two rear O2 sensors, and they have the same connector and wire lengths, you can swap them. Then reset the engine codes (disconnect battery) and drive it until the light comes back on. See if the error code went to a different bank. If so, it is unlikely that you have two faulty sensors, and the problem is the cat or something else up the line from the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check the physical condition of the sensor and make sure there isn't corrosion/water/oil in the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-07T22:46:42.003" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:46:42.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:29:32.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No real way to tell from the oil itself (although Royal Purple IS purple). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either ask the shop or change it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:29:32.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:30:10.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way I know of at least here in Iceland is basically to ask the garage, although here the dealerships certify garages that use only the proper oil for each make&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:30:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:31:02.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than draining a bit and sending it off for some analysis, you'd have to watch them do the oil change. Though if you are that concerned about trickery, your time is probably better spent asking around for references for a reputable shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:31:02.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:31:25.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;RainX makes an anti-fog product specifically for use on windshields, but I don't see why you couldn't use it on a helmet visor too.  To be honest, in my experience using it on windshields it doesn't work all that well, but it's better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively there is a wide variety of anti-fog solutions made for scuba diving masks that I have had a lot of success with in those applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to using any of these products, whether it be RainX or something else is to make sure the interior surface is crystal clean. Toothpaste actually makes an excellent polish/cleanser for these types of surfaces.  Put a small dab on the inside of the visor and then scrub with wet fingers for a minute or two.  Rinse with clean water and lightly dry with a paper towel.  Avoid getting any oils or other chemical residue on the surface after it's clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:12:04.933" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:12:04.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:32:28.490" Score="4" ViewCount="2943" Body="&lt;p&gt;After popping the hood, it is not immediately obvious how/where the headlights are. How do you get access to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:47:20.350" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:47:20.350" Title="How do you change the headlights of a 2001 VW Passat?" Tags="|vw|passat|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:33:35.213" Score="82" ViewCount="45901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in the UK it's common for petrol (gas) stations to offer both regular and &quot;premium&quot; unleaded petrol. The premium stuff is (naturally) more expensive, and I've often wondered what the actual difference is. Would I need to fill up with premium every time to enjoy these benefits, or does treating the car to a periodic tankful help in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: It looks as though there are regional differences with respect to fuels marketed as &quot;premium&quot;. S_Niles says in the answer below that in the US, &quot;premium&quot; implies &quot;high octane&quot;, pure and simple. Here in the UK, &quot;premium&quot; implies &quot;high octane plus additives&quot;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://tesco.com/Momentum99/productBenefits-overview.asp&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt;) It's that &quot;high octane plus additives&quot; stuff that I'm interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T18:36:35.857" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T16:27:23.093" Title="What are the benefits of premium (high octane) petrol?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|octane|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:35:12.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 for Pinlock inserts - I've had them on every helmet I've had and they're very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cheaper alternative, a friend used to smear a small amount of washing-up liquid on the inside of his visor and said that worked really well too. Haven't tried it myself though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:35:12.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:36:40.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion would be to ask whoever did the change. If you are seriously in doubt, provide the oil to somebody to redo the change, or simply do it yourself. If you are able to do the change yourself, I would suggest learning to do so (just keep the receipts so you can provide them as maintenance records in the event you wish you sell the vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, if you aren't certain the right oil was used the first time, redoing a $40 oil change with the correct oil will be way cheaper than any damage the wrong oil might inflict on your vehicle over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:36:40.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:36:49.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular maintenance is not needed. However, a &quot;rattling&quot; noise that changes with engine RPM may indicate a problem with the chain or timing gears. Usually this isn't an issue until higher mileage (150k +).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you go by your dealership, ask them if they've had any problems in particular with your year model. If you hear of instances of chains commonly being replaced at X miles because of some problem (and you trust your source), then you may want to take preemptive action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:36:49.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="38" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:40:00.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This PDF file seems to have good instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://adammclane.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/02/ReplacingHeadlightBulbs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://adammclane.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/02/ReplacingHeadlightBulbs.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this myself on a Passat, though the final pieces seem vaguely similar to my New Beetle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T19:57:05.483" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T19:57:05.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:42:56.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard anything from it does absolutely nothing to help your engine to it actually hurts your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't believe it could actually hurt your engine, unless your engine needs it, then I believe it won't do anything to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear your engine knocking during normal driving you should try a tankful of the next grade fuel to see if the knocking quits.  If you've upgraded to Premium and you still have knocking, there is something wrong with the engine and a mechanic needs to take a look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the octane, for all intents and purposes, only prevents premature ignition of the fuel in the engine.  Premature ignition of the fuel is what causes the knocking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference, the 'hurting your engine' comment came for a salesperson at a US Toyota dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:42:56.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:43:09.293" Score="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely no reason to use higher-octane fuel unless your car explicitly requires it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the octane, the more compression/heat required to combust the fuel. In high-performance engines (turbo-charged, high compression cylinders, etc), a higher octane fuel is needed so the fuel doesn't combust prematurely (knocking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put this fuel in a &quot;normal&quot; engine, it may even have detrimental effects, since the engine will have a harder time combusting the higher octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your car requests a higher octane fuel, it may be possible to use a lower octane fuel because of variable timing and other magic. Your manual would state that. However, it will not have as much performance, since the timing is being retarded to prevent knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am assuming that in the UK, premium = high-octane, the same as here in the States. Over here, premium is ONLY a designation of octane rating, and has nothing to do with the additive package, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:22:23.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:22:23.687" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:43:21.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know premium fuel is (or was) better suited for engines with higher compression ratios (10:1 or more), since lower octane fuel is more likely to combust before the sparkplug fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T09:01:13.167" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T09:01:13.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:43:46.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefit is to reduce knocking in higher-compression engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:43:46.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:55:49.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are your &lt;em&gt;driving conditions&lt;/em&gt;? If you primarily do city driving (stop and go, dusty) or live in a particularly hot or cold environment, then it's worth looking at the &quot;severe service&quot; area of your manual, and go by that recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, it's relatively easy to inspect the timing belt by taking off the top part of the timing belt cover. You are looking for signs of obvious distress, cracking, discoloration, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is whether or not the engine is an interference engine. If it is, a timing belt breaking means Very Bad Things. If it is not, it just means you will break down and need a tow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - After more research, the evidence suggests that the Accord V6 IS an interference engine. Hopefully someone who has access to the Honda technical reference manuals can confirm this. I removed the link I had earlier, because looks out of date (nothing newer than ~1995). Finding reliable database of interference engines on the Internet is surprisingly hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-07T23:47:01.827" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:47:01.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="61" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:56:42.667" Score="3" ViewCount="5462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 VW Golf and my front two springs are squeaky like bed springs.  I have tried spraying them down with WD40 but it doesn't help.  Some seasons they are quiet other times (I believe more in the summer months) every little bump causes them to squeak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can put on them to silence them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T15:44:05.213" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T15:44:05.213" Title="How do I silence squeaky springs on a 2006 VW Golf?" Tags="|vw|golf|springs|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:57:10.590" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;While regular maintenance is not required, it is advisable to regularly check how much the chain has stretched, say every few 100K. If the chain stretches too much, the tensioner may no longer be able to perform its job. There's also the problem of the pins becoming a bit loose in the side plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain should also get a visual check whenever the opportunity presents itself to ensure there is no evidence of things like side plates starting to become loose. Rollers should be felt to ensure there is no discernible play between roller and pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing chains don't often break but when they do they generally take chunks of the engine with them, as well as allowing valves to get too friendly with the pistons, on most engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T21:54:31.517" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T21:54:31.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="51" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="66" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:58:59.770" Score="17" ViewCount="75167" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a diesel engine, how can I know which glow plugs are defective, and can I change these only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T11:15:33.987" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T14:19:08.123" Title="How to test for defective glow plugs?" Tags="|diesel|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="82" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:00:23.710" Score="7" ViewCount="3960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aging (but wonderful) 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX with a manual gearbox.  For some time, I have noticed that the synchros have begun to feel worn with the stock dealer-issue oil.  Shifts are slower to the point of being chunky going into or out of fourth gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43&amp;amp;pcid=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Redline Lightweight Shockproof&lt;/a&gt; and was looking for two answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this an appropriate oil for the transmission in question (i.e., any risks)?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this an appropriate oil for the symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, this is my daily driver with an enthusiastic (but not idiotic) driver.  I'm looking to improve the cars quality of life without any intention of dropped clutches at a green light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to follow-up on the answer: I've tried to keep this car up nicely.  All scheduled maintenance is up to date with 110000 miles (and now 190K miles!) on the odometer.  Things like oil, suspension and exhaust work I handle myself but I let the techs have some time to play as well....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:35:11.797" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T22:35:11.797" Title="Is Redline Lightweight Shockproof appropriate for an aging 2004 Subaru Impreza manual gearbox?" Tags="|transmission|subaru|gear-oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:05:50.180" Score="4" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tools should every home mechanic have in their toolbox?  One item per answer please, upvote the best ones.  This is intended to be a wiki-style question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:11:09.863" Title="What tools should every home mechanic have?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-03-07T23:20:43.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="54" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:06:11.737" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;High octane is required for some cars: e.g., a turbocharged car will likely require higher octane to reduce risk of detonation with higher charge temperatures.  High octane is also required to get the optimal power out of a tuned car: properly advanced timing will enhance power and economy (obviously, not at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars are capable of utilizing the highest octane available, depending on the ECU programming (this is not as common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars can tolerate a lower octane for an unspecified time by retarding timing.  This reduces economy and increases emissions but will allow you to limp home on lesser fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, check the owners manual and use the octane recommended.  If you use octane that's too low, you're risking damage to your engine.  If you use octane that's too high, you're wasting your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-up with my specific example: my owners manual says 91 octane is required for daily operation with lower octane tolerable for short periods (2004 Subaru WRX).  The gas stations near me only stock 93 octane so, technically, those extra two points of octane are wasted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT SOME TIME LATER:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sinced picked up an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4505&quot;&gt;Accessport&lt;/a&gt; and reflashed the ECU to Cobb's Stage 1 specifications.  With that new program, the ECU requires at least 93 octane so my previous remarks about two wasted points are no longer relevant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Accessport also provides real-time and average fuel economy by monitoring the actual fuel injected and the miles travelled.  The measurements support the points in the first paragraph: the increased octane is allowing the car to produce more power at peak as well as higher economy when driven like a grown man with children and who should know better....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;By the way, the car is a delight after the reflash.  I was skeptical before and now am greatly annoyed with myself for not taking the plunge years ago.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T20:32:43.703" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:32:43.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:08:10.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Shoei has a front vent which points up towards the visor which takes care of the problem at speed.  When those pesky red lights and stop signs come up I just crack the visor open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain hasn't ever been an issue for me, as I'm in SoCal and we don't believe in rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:08:10.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:08:59.927" Score="3" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Avalon (2002 Australian build) with a non-VVt-i 1MZ-FE engine (same as used globally). If an engine swap becomes necessary would it be feasible to install a VVT-i version of the same engine and use my existing valve train, or even just lock the valve timing mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that the non-VVT-i engines are becoming quite hard to locate locally and the computers for the VVT-i engines cost nearly as much as the engine itself - if you can even get hold of one. YMMV, depending on where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T12:36:09.647" LastActivityDate="2011-05-07T23:44:16.483" Title="Toyata Avalon non-VVT-i / VVt-i swap" Tags="|toyota|avalon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="53" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:11:09.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a few items&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spanner set with open and closed heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ViseGrip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; socket wrench sets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the sizes I use most are 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm and the inches equivelants&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:11:09.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="60" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:15:24.977" Score="4" ViewCount="2727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get a P0440 code on my Outback on almost every highway trip over 5 miles. Is this caused by the leak in the gas tank or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T12:35:42.470" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T12:35:42.470" Title="Cause of P0440 on 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback" Tags="|subaru|cel|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="300" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:25:26.510" Score="7" ViewCount="1993" Body="&lt;p&gt;The suspension on my 2008 Jeep Wrangler squeaks when I hit a low spot (maybe 4-6&quot; from the grade), even at slow (&amp;lt;10 mph) speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I lubricate or what should I check to eliminate this squeaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T09:02:11.370" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T09:02:11.370" Title="2008 Jeep Wrangler - Suspension squeaks" Tags="|noise|suspension|jeep|wrangler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="58" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:30:12.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by a number of things, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leak in the fuel tank (loose cap)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking evaporator canister (plastic housing in engine compartment or under vehicle, also known as charcoal canister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged evaporator canister - there is a tube that is open to the air that can become plugged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malfunctioning purge valve - valve itself is faulty or wiring to the valve is faulty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malfunctioning sensor - The whole system may be working just fine, but the sensor that &lt;em&gt;monitors&lt;/em&gt; the system may be faulty. It checks for pressure or vacuum at key times while driving to make a guess about how well everything is working.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, everything from a $5 gas cap (free, if it's just loose), to a very expensive fuel tank can cause this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:30:12.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:31:46.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the specifics of that car, so I'm going to take a stab and assume we're talking about coil springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Springs only squeak where they contact something else, which is why spraying them didn't help. If you can't see anything else in contact with the spring have a look at the top and bottom seats. Those seats sometimes wear. Not necessarily all the way through but enough to make the part where the spring sits uneven, resulting in movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, if the suspension has been worked on for any reason, the springs and seats may not have been quite correctly matched up when it was put back together, again resulting in movement. That movement causes squeaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:30:50.253" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:30:50.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:35:25.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about your model but most discs I've encountered have a couple of threaded holes in the hub part. They are often clogged with general road crud, so you may need to scrub the disc hub down to find them. If yours have such holes get a couple of bolts to match and screw them in, as evenly as practical. This will push the disc off the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:35:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="140" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:35:59.873" Score="6" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to upgrade to HID lights in my 2008 Jeep Wrangler.  The stock lights aren't bright at all.  My question is, since this would be an aftermarket upgrade, what am I looking at here?  Is it as simple as swapping in new bulbs?  Are there other electronic modifications I would need to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="11" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T02:09:58.427" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T09:01:51.830" Title="Upgrade to HID lights in a Jeep Wrangler" Tags="|jeep|wrangler|electrical|hid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:44:31.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically, there's not a whole lot you can do. What will help though is to clean them periodically, especially where the parts slide in and out of each other. The objective being to keep foreign matter away from the seals. Depending on shocker design a high pressure cleaner can be quite useful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common cause of rapid shocker failure is faulty mounting points. This may not be at all obvious visually but if the mounting points cause either end of the shocker to be forced even slightly to one side it will cause all the wear in the shocker to take place in a concentrated area, rather than being spread over the diameter of the affected part. This most commonly results in rapid seal wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same effect can be cause by over tightening the nut on the pin end of the shocker. It really doesn't need to be as tight as most people seem to think. Check your manual for the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:44:31.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:52:43.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single most common reason is something, often leaves or the like, finding their way into the fan. Regardless, you really need to remove the fan to fix the problem. If you don't know where it is then it's time to get that workshop manual you should already have to do regular maintenance and repair on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;once the fan has been removed rig up some wires so that you can run the fan while it is outside the car. Most times just doing that will instantly reveal the problem if it's not caused by foreign matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely do not spray anything into the vents. It's not going to fix your problem and is more than likely to create one or more new ones. e.g. WD40 coming back out of the vents into the interior of the car, where it will leave stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:52:43.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:01:28.680" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A glow plug is essentially a resister and is tested the same way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect wire to the plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the thread of the plug to make for a good test connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the thread and the connector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistance should be below 6 ohms or so. It may be very small (under 1 ohm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High resistance or infinite resistance indicates a bad plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is okay to only replace the bad ones. However, if it's a high mileage engine, you may be back under the hood in a week replacing another bad plug. It's up to you to decide on cost vs labor in this situation. A lot of that depends on how hard it is to gain access to the plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to test the new plugs before installing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:01:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="67" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="89" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:02:10.730" Score="18" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to replace the brake fluid in a car? What tools are required? I want to make sure I do not get any air or bubbles in the system as this is something that needs to be done right the first time for obvious safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T10:16:41.600" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:16:41.600" Title="What is the proper way to bleed brakes and replace the fluid?" Tags="|brakes|maintenance|bleeding|tips-and-tricks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:04:08.073" Score="5" ViewCount="17804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 VW Jetta TDI with a manual transmission. In the past few days, I have not been able to push the gear shifter into reverse without letting up on the clutch. I get about halfway from center to engaged and can't proceed further until I let the clutch out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this be a symptom of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T13:38:40.710" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T00:54:26.920" Title="Reverse difficult to engage with manual transmission" Tags="|vw|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="242" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:07:49.537" Score="6" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a radiator in my truck that has a slow leak which looks like it is oozing a little bit in between some of the fins.  What are some of the ways to repair a radiator without replacing it?  At what point should it just be replaced completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seem the little additive bottles that claim to fix small leaks.  Is this the only option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T01:39:46.360" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:42:13.507" Title="How to do minor repairs to a radiator?" Tags="|radiator|truck|coolant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="83" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:09:33.700" Score="4" ViewCount="7215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned a Diesel Peugeot 307 for a year now but during the recent winter months I have noticed a strange sound in the engine when I started it up. As sounds aren't well described with words, I have included a video link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nMEhp7sDXQ&amp;amp;sns=em&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nMEhp7sDXQ&amp;amp;sns=em&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound seems to be nearly inaudible after driving for about 10-20 minutes so I'm guessing it relates to the engine being cold somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revving the car increases the frequency of the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T00:37:18.503" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:58:30.437" Title="What could cause an engine to make a chirping sound when it's first started up?" Tags="|peugeot|engine|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="74" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:13:40.560" Score="8" ViewCount="203262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a squeaky belt in my car that is driving me crazy!  Is there a general fix or belt treatment product I can buy to silence a squeaky belt?  If belts are squeaky, does that mean time for replacement instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T22:54:05.143" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T10:35:53.340" Title="Is there a general fix or product I can buy to silence a squeaky belt?" Tags="|belt|noise|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:16:44.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about a squeaky alternator or steering belt you might need to retension it, if that does not work a replacement might be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:16:44.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="93" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:20:02.063" Score="76" ViewCount="529646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard it is proper practice to replace or resurface your brake rotors every time your do a brake pad replacement.  Does this need to be done every single time or is it overkill?  Maybe it is just something easy to do, might as well replace while you are in there type of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T16:30:55.440" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:54:01.917" Title="Should I resurface or replace my rotors everytime I replace brake pads?" Tags="|brakes|replace|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:23:00.000" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main cause of a squeaky belt is the rubber has stretched causing a reduction in friction allowing the slippage to occur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to solve the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the belt by using the appropriate tensioning technique (generally loosening the bolt that hold the pulleys in position, realigning the now-loosened pulley &amp;amp; retightening the bolt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting belt dressing on the belt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:23:00.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:23:19.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have time to deal with it you can try the belt dressing, but I do not recommend it. I've had it happen plenty of times and it has been caused by improper tensioning (too loose). Find out what the proper deflection should be using your shop manual (a must have for proper diy maintenance) and set it. You can purchase &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.denso.com.my/tool_others_gauge.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a gage&lt;/a&gt;, but in my experience it is do-able with trial and error. If that doesn't correct it, replace the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:23:19.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:26:59.477" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three cases that cause brake rotors to need to be resurfaced/turned and/or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gouging of the rotor by the brake pad holding mechanism (the pad were rubbed completely away and the metal holding the pad start digging into the rotor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warping of the rotor from extreme use (rotor gets too hot and warps upon cooling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rotor itself wears down to a point that it is too thin and could possibly break when used (this generally occurs when brake pads made of a material that is harder than the rotor material and the rotor wears down instead of the brake pad)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many mechanics recommend turning/resurfacing/replacing rotors everytime because there is more money to be made that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T00:28:10.083" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:28:10.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:27:47.553" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it does not need to be done every time. Don't believe the hype. If you have warping, then you should re-surface, provided you have not worn beyond the minimum dimensions for your discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:27:47.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="70" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:27:49.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: I wrote this when the title mentioned &quot;squealing&quot; noises. Since the noise description has changed, I'll have to get to a computer with audio to see if the video helps. I left the original post intact, because it may still be worthwhile to eliminate the serpentine belt and pulleys as a noise source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original post:&#xA;First thing that comes to mind is the serpentine belt is slipping. Cold weather makes the rubber harder and more susceptible to slippage. After things start warming up, they become more pliable and expand a bit, which stops the slippage. You can examine the belt and see if it's cracked or frayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt it looks okay, the belt tensioner may be loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto parts store usually carry some spray specifically for noisy belts. This isn't a long term solution, but a diagnostic tool. If you spray the belt and the noise changes, then you've limited the area of concern to the belt and tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the belt looks bad, I'd replace that before spending money on spray that I'd never use again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause is the bearings in one of the pulleys around the serpentine belt. Auto techs use a stethoscope thing with a metal tip to narrow down those types of noises. Given that the noise goes away, I doubt it's a pulley bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's something to be a bit concerned about. The belt may come off and leave you stranded without an alternator/power steering/water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:27:49.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="90" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:28:14.270" Score="4" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always heard that the oil in a car should be changed every 3000 miles, but I read the manufacturer's suggested maintenance guide, and it says to change it every 5000 miles. Which is correct, or is it something entirely different, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T21:56:03.000" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T21:56:03.000" Title="Should oil be changed every 3000, or 5000 miles?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-03-08T04:07:27.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="169" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:39:43.923" Score="4" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;This vehicle recently had its radiator changed and ever since the hood won't close. I've found that if I shift the level manually, it will close, but otherwise it won't. The spring appears to be working perfectly fine, but for some reason, it just won't pull the lever far enough to allow the hood to close completely. I've tried greasing it up, tightening the spring, etc, but it still just won't budge. &#xA;What can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:29:10.063" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T20:29:10.063" Title="Hood on Jeep Grande Cherokee 1998 doesn't close easily" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|hood|latch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:49:08.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the clutch is going out or possibly the synchromesh is no longer working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch is unable to fully disengage the engine from the transmission to allow you to shift into reverse.  If the synchromesh is no longer working fully, this would make it harder to shift in every gear but it's still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are, in essense, double-clutching to shift into reverse.  (I don't know why this works, but semi trucks that do not have synchromesh have to do this to shift without grinding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:49:08.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:55:38.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lightweight Schockproof is a frequent choice of many Subaru owners on both the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nasioc.com/&quot;&gt;NASIOC&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruforester.org/&quot;&gt;SubaruForester&lt;/a&gt; fora. It is an appropriate choice for all Subarus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention if you've kept up with regular maintenance, specifically whether the transmission oil has ever been changed. If it has not been changed, new oil will have a very noticeable affect on shifting and certainly will smooth the notchy feeling. If it has been changed it may be a good time to investigate further for damage to your transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T00:55:38.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="70" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:56:03.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The squeaking doesn't seem to be keeping up with the rotation of the motor, so that might imply a pulley with a smaller diameter than the others. I agree with S_Niles assessment for the most part; it sounds like metal scraping or a hard belt slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might try on the belt is to rub a bar of soap on the inside of the belt. That will be enough to make the noise go away for a while if it's a bad belt; don't waste your money on special sprays or lubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me the sounds is like an intermittent version of somebody who's low on power steering fluid, with a bad belt, and has cranked the steering wheel all the way to one side. I don't know, start around those areas I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:58:30.437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:58:30.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="136" CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:56:29.253" Score="20" ViewCount="13379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older (enter vehicle here) that has 100k miles on it. Would I see any benefit switching to full synthetic or synthetic blend oil?  Is it worth the extra cost in an older vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: Valvoline makes a conventional, Max Life blend, and Full Synthetic oil products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:45:58.427" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:45:58.427" Title="Is it worth switching to full synthetic or blend oil in my older car/truck?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:03:47.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is generally a minimum thickness marked on the disc by the manufacturer which marks the 'safe' limit at which you don't really want to risk exceeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed my pads twice now on my current vehicle, and each time taken the discs off and individually checked them for signs of gouging, cracking and of course if it's passed the minimum thickness marker. You can measure the actual thickness of your disks using a micrometer. These can be picked up for fairly cheap from most car stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally never seen the need to resurface the disk, a brand new brake pad will generally sit in the groove quite happil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T01:03:47.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="134" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:12:46.160" Score="33" ViewCount="15029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to what are the particular difference between the various drive systems available in modern vehicles.  FWD and RWD are pretty straightforward - Front Wheel Drive cars put the power to the front wheels, Rear Wheel Drive puts it in the rear.  However, the remaining variants are less clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between 4WD and &quot;Part-Time&quot; 4WD?&#xA;How is AWD different from any 4WD?  Are there any systems I've missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T13:46:13.983" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T20:00:22.937" Title="Difference between FWD/RWD/4WD/Part-Time 4WD/AWD?" Tags="|4wd|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="126" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:17:11.750" Score="12" ViewCount="7201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned two vehicles whose catalytic converters were recalled due two a couple of reasons: one being the quality of the CC and the other being a reduction in power due to a material building up and reducing airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car I own now (2007 Pontiac G6) has had such a recall issued, but only some cars are affected. I feel that sometimes I have less power than I'm supposed to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there tests for bad CCs? My exhaust pipe is welded on to each end of the CC on the G6 so I can't exactly peek inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T06:58:57.210" Title="What are the tell tale signs of a catalytic converter that might be going bad?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:18:01.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such a question can only be asked in regard to specific makes and models. There is no yes/no answer to this in the general context. Some older engines benefit from switching to synthetic, while others suffer from it. FWIW, I've not yet seen a manufacturer recommend a full synthetic for older cars, only blends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T01:18:01.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:30:07.160" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways this can be done. It can range from a two person job, with on one the pedal and the other at the bleed nipple, to a one man job where the new fluid is forced through the system under external pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DIY purposes the most common is the two man (person?) way. Person A is at the nipple, which has a hose attached and the other end is submerged in a jar with some brake fluid in it, opens and closes the bleed valve. Person B is at the brake pedal and presses down when A tells him to, which should be just before A opens the bleed valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the pedal has been depressed (not too suddenly) person A closed the valve and tells B to release the pedal. The procedure is repeated until no more bubbles are seen to come out. It's vital to check the fluid level regularly, because if it drops too low you have to start allover again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ring spanner to fit the nipple. Don't even think about trying this with an open-ender - you'll simply round it over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hose to fit the nipple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coffee jar or similar with a little brake fluid already in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A helper who can follow simple up/down directions and can put up with you growling when they get it wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake fluid. Preferably a different colour to what is currently in the system, so that you will know when the old stuff has been fully pushed out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rags to clean the nipple before starting and clean up the spillage that always seems to happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T01:30:07.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="79" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:30:14.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to change oil at a set mileage interval you should use the maintenance interval set by the vehicle manufacturer. More frequent changes aren't necessary however you may wish to change oil more frequently based on driving conditions (lot's of stop &amp;amp; go, short drives.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T01:30:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="97" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:30:18.383" Score="21" ViewCount="103396" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee has gone through 3 batteries in the last 3 months. While they have all been replaced by warranties, it'd be nice to get the problem solved permanently. I've tested the alternator, and it's not defective. I'm suspecting it might be a short somewhere in the system. How can I track down if this is a short, and if so, where the short is occuring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T00:02:37.923" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:42:56.223" Title="Battery drains by itself when vehicle is parked (parasitic draw)" Tags="|battery|jeep|electrical|short|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="94" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:32:01.013" Score="27" ViewCount="441905" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Civic has a D gear and a D3, which apparently prevents it from going into 4th.  Why would I want to do this?  What is it good for?  Does it make my fuel efficiency better or worse?  Does it make the transmission's job easier or wear it out faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T13:44:22.347" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:30:38.247" Title="What's the point of the D3 gear in an automatic transmission?" Tags="|honda|civic|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:40:23.637" Score="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;The decision to replace is largely based on the thickness.  The repair manual should tell you the minimum thickness, below which you should replace the rotors when doing the repair.  Use a pair of calipers and measure the rotor thickness, if you're below this number you need to replace the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also wish to replace the rotors if you have particularly heavy use planned and you are getting close to the limit.  For example, if you live in the mountains, do a lot of towing, are planning to attend track days...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely need to get them resurfaced if they are warped or damaged.  Usually you can feel if they are warped through the brake pedal when stopping -- instead of a smooth stop it will kind of vibrate or pulsate when braking at higher speeds.  It's very noticeable.  This can be measured with a dial gauge and checked against the repair manual's recommendations for &quot;runout&quot;.  You will need a dial gauge, and some sort of a mount to hold the gauge steady while you spin the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage is usually caused by the old brake pads wearing completely through and tend to leave a very rough surface on the disc.  These should definitely be turned, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before having a damaged or warped set of rotors turned, check their thickness.  If they're close to the minimum, resurfacing them will leave you with rotors that are too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at this point, you should have rotors that are thick enough and not damaged.  Many people recommend resurfacing of them so the pads and rotors can better mate and wear into each-other.  I tend to agree with this, but I have replaced pads on cars that I drive less spiritedly without resurfacing them, and have not had problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T01:40:23.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:44:15.590" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is analagous to down shifting in a manual.  This is a lower gear for the transmission which means the engine revolves at a higher rate producing more back pressure at the same speed as a higher gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When going down a hill, if you downshift that will reduce the demands on the braking system, due to the back pressure.  You will often see truck drivers downshifting on long hills so that their brakes do not overheat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would only use D3 while going downhill with a load so you can use your brakes less.  Your mileage would be worse since the engine is running at a higher rpm.  Only if you did &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of using D3 would it make any appreciable wear on your transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T12:50:31.997" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T12:50:31.997" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:44:18.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The regulator or rectifier isn't going to be bothered by a bit of water splashing on it. Quite simply, the voltage is too low for the water to pass a current. What is more likely is that water getting into/onto the high voltage part of the ignition circuit has caused a spike or surge to be sent through the low voltage circuit, which &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; fry rectifiers and other solid state components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, check to see that the ignition circuitry is well protected from the elements. If you can find it locally, get a can of silicone water shield and give your system a couple of coats of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't do that you can always resort to what we did &quot;in the old days&quot;, which is to wrap as much of the ignition stuff as possible in plastic. Just ensure you leave downward facing drainage points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:02:31.357" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:02:31.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="96" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="103" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:49:39.573" Score="28" ViewCount="3592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally drove my car over a curb a while back. As you probably already know, the car suffered from minor scratches and dents on the bottom side, near the rear tyre. Now, I've noticed that it's now slowly developing rust on the scratched paintwork. The rust isn't too bad, i.e. the rust part still feels pretty solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you effectively deal with this kind of problem (other than telling me to drive more carefully)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T21:58:12.950" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T21:58:12.950" Title="How to deal with rust" Tags="|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:50:33.847" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter&quot;&gt;Standard digital multimeters&lt;/a&gt; can measure current and help you identify what in your vehicle is consuming your battery's juice. Get an electrical diagram of your vehicle and try to narrow it down by doing current measurements in the various major paths of flow. When your car is off, no (or only trace) current should be flowing. Every time the path of electricity splits, you'll have to test each to determine which one is drawing the juice. There's no telling how many of these you'll have to check before you reach the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer of course assumes the juice is being drained while the vehicle is off. I suppose it is possible that it is draining while on also.  Either the alternator is bad or it isn't able to produce enough juice to keep up with your vehicle's demand (which probably includes some defective component that is sucking lots of juice). If it keeps running normally, it might be worth checking the leads coming to the battery (while still disconnected) with a meter to ensure it is being fed properly by the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, please do this before doing any more battery exchanges. You are making the price of my next battery go up by taking advantage of the return policy like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="10835" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T20:45:47.107" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:45:47.107" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:01:12.710" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what Patrick said, D3, or whatever else it's called in various makes and models, is also useful for those times when you're climbing a hill and the transmission keeps shifting back and forth between gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may also be times, such as when driving on very slippery surfaces, when a gear shift could cause the car to lose traction. In such a situation the ability to hold the car in a given gear can be very advantageous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:01:12.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1234" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:04:50.917" Score="17" ViewCount="7483" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife was speaking with a mechanic when she took the car in for a safety and emissions inspection this past week and the mechanic told her that we HAD to take our Ford Taurus to a Ford dealership or to one of their shops (she was at a chain) to add or replace antifreeze in the car, otherwise it would apparently ruin our radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is the newest car I've ever owned, I don't know if this is some peculiarity of newer vehicles or maybe something specific to Fords. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide some clarification?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:10:08.610" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T18:44:41.910" Title="2005 Ford Taurus - Is it really harmful to use standard antifreeze?" Tags="|ford|coolant|radiator|taurus|d186|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:05:50.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the belt has correct tension and still squeaks, it's rare to find anything more than a short term solution, other than replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you really want to give something a try, most industrial suppliers can sell you a can of &quot;belt grip&quot; compound, which is sprayed onto the contact surfaces of the belt and/or pulleys while they're rotating (as slowly as practical). Note that you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; get some of this stuff thrown onto you while you're spraying it, so dress appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:54:57.127" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:54:57.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="69" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:11:08.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First up, after about 4 decades of trying different things I'm absolutely convinced that the only worthwhile solution is to take it to a radiator specialist and see what they can do with it. Personally, every time I've tried one of those leak sealing compounds I always end up feeling like I've been ripped off. At best they only work for a very short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an emergency situation, such as when you're camping a long way from anywhere, and provided the leak is pretty small, you can put an egg white (only the white) into a radiator that is already up to temperature. Don't laugh, this really works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:11:08.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="69" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:15:23.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely non-repairable, unless the vehicle is 15 years + old. The new style radiators are not cost effective to repair. A leak between the tank and the core, can usually be repaired, a leaking tank can usually be replaced. Core repair is difficult if possible, they are made so thin now it's next to impossible to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with a radiator repair shop and compare the price and warranty of new vs repair. Unless there is a big savings 25% or more I would go with the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:15:23.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="96" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:19:53.033" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do would be to sand down the rusted area until you can see the original metal and then apply a automotive primer to protect it from the rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel pretty comfortable with a bottle of spray paint and aren't too worried about a pro job, you could then obtain some automotive spray paint and repaint the affected area(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that you're going to want to sand down the smallest area possible. When priming and painting, cover exposed surfaces with newspaper and tape it down so that you don't end up with primer or paint running on other surfaces of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:19:53.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:22:25.500" Score="16" ViewCount="4743" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of our cars has a bit of a rough idle which disappears at about 1,000 RPM. After eliminating everything else I concluded that this is due to a minor vacuum leak. This was confirmed by the use of a gauge connected to the system, which showed the pressure rising (i.e. losing vacuum) when it should have held steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test the vacuum system without actually dismantling its numerous parts and testing each hose, valve and fitting individually? I've considered piping smoke through the system and seeing where it comes out but some of it won't tolerate positive pressure, even low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T04:06:14.007" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T03:08:47.910" Title="Finding a possible vacuum leak" Tags="|testing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:30:36.023" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets start with the fact that Ford doesn't make anti-freeze, they buy it in. It will have certain specs of course but so does all anti-freeze. It will also be made by one of the major producers of the product. If you can find the Ford specs you could compare it to other brands. Alternatively, contact the makers of different brands of anti-freeze and ask them about the compatibility of their products with that vehicle. You don't need to use a particular brand, only a compatible one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T11:27:29.543" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T11:27:29.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:39:43.740" Score="3" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new (to me) car. The biggest difficulty I have is trying to determine what if any major mechanical problems there might be, and what to look for when inspecting the vehicle and taking it for a test drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, aside from taking it straight to a mechanic, what simple things should a relative amateur do/look for when doing a &quot;field inspection&quot; of a used car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="88" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:20:52.220" Title="What things should I look for when inspecting a used vehicle?" Tags="|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-03-08T04:01:42.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:41:57.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to an unexpected electrical load, as covered by Captain Claptrap, there are other things to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two biggest killers of lead/acid batteries are overcharging and vibration. Unless you &#xA;have the equipment and the skills to use it properly (in which case you probably wouldn't be asking) I suggest you get the charging system checked by an &lt;em&gt;independent&lt;/em&gt; auto electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the vibration issue, check the battery mounting. The battery should be sitting very solidly on a surface without any hint of rocking. Remove any mat this might sit under the battery before checking this. That surface in turn needs to be mounted very solidly, with absolutely no sign of movement relative to the rest of the car. A common problem with some cars is that the mount has supports which attach to the fender, which can flex a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the above checks out ensure the battery hold-down does its job properly and does not allow the battery to move at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find any issues with the mounting, no matter how small, have &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; fixed under warranty, otherwise you're just going to keep replacing batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:41:57.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:53:29.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;4WD is distinguished from &quot;part time&quot; 4WD in that you can't turn it off - the vehicle is always in 4WD.  Vehicles that have this usually have a differential built into the transfer case to allow for full time 4WD even on dry pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AWD is almost the same as full time 4WD, except that AWD vehicles generally don't have the high-torque low gear option (4L) that you get with a 4WD vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="88" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T02:53:29.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:57:50.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not really anything substantial you can do as a field inspection to look for any major problems other than audible warning signs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth it to take it to your local (trusted) mechanic and spend $100-200 for a full inspection of your car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be too late for you, but you should really take any car you want to buy to an independent mechanic for an inspection before you buy it.  View the cost of the inspection like a home inspection when buying a home.  The inspection fee is a small price to pay to save you from possibly thousands of dollars in expenses down the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while carfax isn't perfect, it's worth it to run a check on the car to make sure it's not a lemon or had any major damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 'rough' check I would say, use all your senses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen for strange noises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look over the whole car, see if the body panels all line up, if all the openings work well (hood/doors opens/closes properly)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel the body panels see if you notice any warping that would result from body putty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smell the interior, sniff the exhaust for the smell of burning oil etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste - well, if you get a bad taste in your mouth from looking at the car, it's probably not good for you :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, ask questions!  Car sellers are required by law to answer all questions truthfully, but if you don't ask they won't offer up any negative information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T03:15:02.340" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:15:02.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="167" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:08:42.637" Score="19" ViewCount="83586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket strut tower bars are generally considered to be decorative on many brand new cars.  However, it seems to be a bit more logical that a chassis with 100K miles would have developed some flex and could use a cross-member to stiffen things back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: the specific car in question is a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX wagon, daily driver with 110K miles, none of them off road or racing.  (Note from future me: and now it has 190K miles!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does an aftermarket strut tower bar have any measurable effect during an enthusiastic daily commute?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, how do you measure the effect?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to admit, there have been plenty of times when I have wished that there was a bar across the engine bar just to give me something to lean on (as opposed to the intercooler!).  That doesn't seem like a sufficient motivator, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT to follow-up on some of the points in the answers:&lt;/em&gt; the fundamentals of the suspension have already been sorted: Hotchkis sway bars with new bushings, KYB Excel struts (that are effectively OEM replacements) with Kartboy endlinks.  This isn't an autocross car but the easy targets have already been addressed.  Now we're literally talking about tightening up an aging chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the answer can be no, there won't be a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:33:49.467" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T17:56:43.377" Title="Does a strut tower bar have any useful effect on chassis stiffness for a car with 100K miles?" Tags="|subaru|impreza|chassis|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:20:52.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've narrowed it down to a certain make and model, you can go on the forums out there and ask this question to get specific answers on what to look for. Sometimes, this will awaken you to problems with your choice and you'll decide to move on (your choice demands too much maintenance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to get into the general checks--I leave that to someone else. But as to the particulars of any certain model, trust me. I've used this and saved myself quite a bit of trouble by knowing what to look for with the particular model I wanted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:20:52.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="104" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:33:51.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a small propane tank, hook up a hose to it and open the valve slightly. Start following the vacuum lines until you hear the idle go up; that's where your vacuum leak is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that works is that vacuum leaks are places where the vacuum system is open and drawing in air unmetered, causing the system to have a different fuel/air mixture than the computer expects. When you get the propane near an opening in the vacuum system, it sucks in the propane and it changes the mixture again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:33:51.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="210" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:34:25.173" Score="15" ViewCount="68310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a new battery installed in my 2006 Subaru Forester. The shop did not use any dielectric grease, just connected the leads to the terminal and that's it. What is the preferred method of application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove leads, apply to terminals, connect leads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do not remove leads, apply to terminals and leads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T23:34:55.997" Title="How do I apply dielectric grease to my battery?" Tags="|battery|subaru|grease|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:43:33.320" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had problems with corrosion so I have not used dielectric grease on any of my car's battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery already has corrosion on the terminals, then I would recommend disconnecting the terminals using a wire brush to clean off the buildup and then reconnecting the leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no corrosion then I would recommend just putting the grease over the leads and terminals.  There should be no problem with either approach though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SAFETY NOTE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as always, when dealing with electricity be very careful when dealing with the battery and make sure not to create a circuit between the positive(red) terminal and the any metal on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:43:33.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:53:02.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some of my manuals, I've found that before shifting into reverse, putting the shifter into 5th gear helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a mechanical explanation for this (my thought is something to do with the synchromesh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it, see if it helps at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my current vehicle my process to go to reverse is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Clutch pedal in&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go to neutral&#xA;Go into 5th&#xA;Go into reverse&#xA;Clutch pedal out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I skip going to 5th, I sometimes get a slight grind or get blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T03:53:02.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="146" CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:28:10.390" Score="71" ViewCount="392299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when I first turn on the A/C in our 2008 Toyota Sienna, the air that blows out has a very distinct chemical - nasty smell. After a while it seems to go away. I'm not sure if I just get used to the smell or it actually goes away. When I just turn on the fan with no A/C there is no smell. Also if I drive somewhere then leave shortly thereafter, it doesn't stink when I fire it up the 2nd (or subsequent) time. Should I be concerned for my health or safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T12:33:42.550" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T17:18:33.673" Title="Why does my A/C blow foul smelling air when it first turns on?" Tags="|ac|smell|toyota|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="120" CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:43:58.920" Score="12" ViewCount="4409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '99 Maxima. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering installing strut tower braces. In order to do so, would I need to get spring compression tools to hold the springs on the struts, or will the weight of the car be sufficient to hold it in place when I remove the bolts on the towers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T12:57:21.150" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T20:31:04.587" Title="Do I Need to Compress the Springs to Install Strut Tower Braces?" Tags="|suspension|tools|struts|nissan|maxima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="145" CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:44:50.153" Score="62" ViewCount="312270" Body="&lt;p&gt;Approximately how long does it take for unleaded gasoline in the tank and fuel lines to become unusable in a car that is not being used?  What causes this, and what can be done to prevent or remedy the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  The car that prompted this question ('96 Lincoln Mark VIII, parked for about 6-9 months without preparation) has started successfully.  The engine &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; seems like it doesn't like the gas, but it runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:17:36.640" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T23:08:39.700" Title="How long does it take for gas to go bad?" Tags="|fuel-system|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:50:47.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weight of the car will be sufficient to keep the spring from decompressing fully and pulling out the bottom of the strut frame in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must be careful not to jack the car up without the bolts secured tightly though, this could produce a dangerous situation.  Also if you are ever working on the 'southern' half of the spring, where it interacts with the wheel arm, you MUST use a compression tool as it is under pressure and can shoot off when the bolts holding the assembly together are loosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SAFETY NOTE&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must always be extremely careful when working with any system that is under pressure, whether it is from a spring, motorized or from hydraulics.  Check with you vehicle's manual before performing work so that you are familiar with your specific car's systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T04:50:47.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2011-03-08T05:55:33.723" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the storage conditions, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2668/why-does-gasoline-go-stale-so-quickly&quot;&gt;The Straight Dope&lt;/a&gt; suggests a storage life of 6 months to a couple of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue to worry about is that the gas degrades and leaves deposits or gums, particularly in sensitive areas like injectors or jets.  Another issue is that if accumulation of water in the tank.  If the tank is kept full, there is less space inside it to collect condensation, which can help decrease this effect, but it also depends on the humidity where the gas is stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T05:55:33.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="361" CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:14:33.347" Score="6" ViewCount="9502" Body="&lt;p&gt;While buying a new car, the dealer suggests Teflon coating your car so that the paint shine lasts longer. I know that Teflon is a substance which does not easily attach to any other substance. So is this treatment for real or is this a scam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Update&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did some research on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en_US/applications/caseStudies/case164.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DuPont&lt;/a&gt; site. Found this case study -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Application Description Have you&#xA;  wished that your new vehicle could&#xA;  stay new looking longer with that&#xA;  glossy “wet look” that turns heads and&#xA;  prompts valet attendants to park you&#xA;  up front?  Until now, that proud, new&#xA;  ownership experience was too often&#xA;  marred by fine swirl marks from&#xA;  cleaning or surface dulling and&#xA;  clouding from exposure to the&#xA;  elements. Today, Ford Motor Company&#xA;  offers a unique, premium paint job&#xA;  that will resist scratching and mars&#xA;  longer than the finish on any other&#xA;  vehicle in the parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like something which is expensive and done at the time of manufacturing and not at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:53:24.383" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:53:59.217" Title="Teflon Coating your new car" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="96" CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:14:54.733" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYMOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Napa Rust Treatment Permatex 765-1671&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Napa Rust Treatment Permatex 765-1671 on my F-150 truck about 8 months ago and all the rust is gone!  This treatment is like a grey primer.  It's not pretty on a blue truck, but neither is oxidized red cancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T06:14:54.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:19:04.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be okay for awhile, but that stuff eventually might start flaking off.  I had a Monte Carlo where this stuff started coming off.  The paint under it was flat and dull and it looked pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/1442803/posts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread similar to this question&lt;/a&gt; with people that claim that you don't need the coating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T06:19:04.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="127" CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:33:01.237" Score="51" ViewCount="88507" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some related topics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12/how-to-maintain-a-sometimes-used-vehicle&quot;&gt;How to maintain a sometimes-used vehicle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/119/how-long-does-it-take-for-gas-to-go-bad&quot;&gt;How long does it take for gas to go bad?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first related topic addresses preparing a vehicle for long-term disuse, and maintaining it during those periods.  The second related topic addresses one of the effects of a long-term inactivity on a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I'm looking to cover what should be done after the fact.  Say a vehicle has been parked for several months and was neither prepared for this, nor maintained during that period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What particular adverse effects of long-term un-maintained storage should one be aware of when trying to revive a car in this situation?  What things should be checked or touched on before starting the car?  What measures can be taken at this point to prevent further damage to the vehicle during its first re-start, and facilitate bringing it back to a safe and healthy operational status?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  Good news.  The car ('96 Lincoln Mark VIII) that prompted me to ask this question has started successfully.  It had been sitting for probably 6-9 months without any preparation.  The battery is definitely toast, and the engine &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; doesn't like the condition of the gas, but it started pretty well and got around the block a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first start, I swapped in the battery from my '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  Then, after pulling the Mark VIII out to where I could reach it with jumper cables, I put the original battery back in.  It's had to be jump-started every time since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is running pretty rough, and I've got a constant (and occasionally flashing) CEL going.  It also turns out that I've got about 3/4 of a tank to burn through before it'll get any really good gas.  I threw in a couple gallons of premium (91 octane around here) and a can of SeaFoam to hopefully help though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the tips, guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T05:31:30.257" Title="Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time" Tags="|parking|restoration|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:58:57.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cat rattles (may happen more after warmed up), then it's definitely bad. Banging on it can help see if there is material loose in there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cat was plugged up enough to affect performance, I would hope that one of the 02 sensors would kick off the check engine light. However, if it's borderline, I guess the engine may be able to adjust the fuel levels enough to make itself happy without adjusting enough to trip the CEL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To really and truly know, you'd have to check the back pressure ahead of the cat and compare it against factory specs. I've never had to actually do that though. Anytime I've had a cat plugged so bad that it affected performance, it caused the vehicle to outright misfire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, &quot;I feel that sometimes I have less power than I'm supposed to have&quot; is a really broad statement. Most things that affect performance on a modern car (enough to be noticeable) should trip the Check Engine Light and give you a place to begin troubleshooting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T06:58:57.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:14:14.797" Score="43" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have one available, use a trickle-charger to bring the battery back up slowly, instead of jump-starting it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the tires. They are probably pretty low at this point. See if they are dry rotted (all cracked and ready to wear quickly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all of the fluids in the typical way. Note that it's okay if the oil shows a little low since it's not warm yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the serpentine belt - like the tires, it is rubber and susceptible to dry rot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is room in the fuel tank, I'd go ahead and fill it up sooner rather than later to get some fresh fuel mixed in with the old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep a baseball bat handy for the pissed raccoon that just lost its house. Hmm, that's actually a good point - if you live out in the boonies, bang around on stuff to scare off the critters. It's a pain to clean animal parts off the engine fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start it up and see how it drives. Take it easy while it warms up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd drive it around for awhile and when it's nice and hot take it to the gas station as mentioned earlier. Then check your warm levels (engine oil and transmission oil) and check again for any leaks now that it's been running for awhile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd probably go ahead and change the engine oil and whatever else is due base on the usual time/mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, nothing particularly different than what should be happening at any normal oil change, since you are talking about months and not years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T18:05:24.210" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T18:05:24.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="133" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:34:13.500" Score="6" ViewCount="20874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic VTI, 1997 model, automatic transmission. When I start driving my car gives a feeling that one of the front wheel is wobbling and the steering wheel receives continuous jerks. This feeling goes away when I increase the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a wheel alignment or balancing problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T21:28:39.287" Title="My car wobbles while driving" Tags="|honda|civic|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:37:02.687" Score="3" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic VTI, 1997 model, automatic transmission. When I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right, it gives me a loud &quot;cluck&quot; sound. What is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2011-03-12T04:34:50.010" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:25:36.913" Title="Steering wheel gives a &quot;cluck&quot; sound" Tags="|honda|civic|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="104" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:43:11.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoke and propane both work well. Another option is a rubber hose stethoscope. This isolates the noise to the end of the hose, and will make a vacuum leak hiss fairly loudly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a stethoscope with the metal rod that you use for putting on the engine block, just yank the rod part out of the hose and viola! You have a new tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to squeeze the hose into some places without dismantling as much stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T07:43:11.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:43:45.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that anything that you can do on the street would be noticeably impacted by a strut tower brace, even during &quot;enthusiastic commuting&quot;.  The street is no place to be doing &quot;nine tenths&quot; or &quot;ten tenths&quot; driving, and even with spirited driving, on the street you are unlikely to have any noticeable impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't running R compound tires, you probably don't have the traction to make a tower brace do anything, even if you have fairly high performance &quot;street tires&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you're really pushing your car on the street, try going out for an autocross event.  You can probably find an &quot;solo&quot; or &quot;autocross&quot; event within an hour or two of where you live pretty much any weekend in the summer.  The &quot;solo&quot; events, as the name implies, are doing timed runs against the clock, not other cars, through a course set up with pylons.  A properly set up course should have no opportunity for running into any obstacles, and will give you a feel for what sort of environment it takes to need a tower brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of a car's chassis &quot;getting tired&quot;, so putting a brace in would really make no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T00:36:04.407" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:36:04.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:47:20.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same problem. In my case it was a warped brake disc. You can see if it's the same in your case by seeing how hot your brake disc is after driving. Don't driving any more than you have to though, because you may damage the calipers. If it's the same problem then change the brake disc as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T07:47:20.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:48:01.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it is most likely a balancing issue. In order to find out, I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the car's jack to clear each front wheel from the ground. Give the wheel a spin and &lt;strong&gt;check to see that the spinning tire does not vibrate&lt;/strong&gt; (sideways and/or up-and-down). This could indicate a damaged rim or a damaged tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If pt. 1 does not give any indication, &lt;strong&gt;unmount the tire and get it balanced&lt;/strong&gt;. You may have the equipment to do this yourself &amp;mdash; if not, consult your regular mechanic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If neither solves the issue I'd say that a more comprehensive inspection is needed. You mechanic should be able to help you out here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Pardon my French. I'm pretty sure that I've used some non-English terms and translations in the above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T07:48:01.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:16:49.750" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand a little on what Eric said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider the 4WD versus AWD to largely be marketing terms differentiating between vehicles with additional ground clearance and plating underneath to protect sensitive components while going over rough terrain off-road travel (4WD) from systems that are targeted more towards on-road travel (AWD).  Though this is confused more by companies making their own names for all wheel drive systems like quattro, Syncro, SH-AWD, Hydratrak, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth differentiating between these flavors of drive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full time AWD.  These systems are designed to be left engaged even when on dry roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part-time AWD.  These systems usually have a locked center differential AKA transfer case, which is will cause excessive wear on the drivetrain and/or tires if left engaged on dry roads.  It's meant only to be engaged in reduced traction situations like snow, ice, gravel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hi/Lo AWD.  This is probably the most likely to be called 4WD, because it's usually fitted on vehicles meant for off-road use.  This will either be part time or full time, and on older vehicles would also have &quot;locking hubs&quot; up front.  This has an additional set of gears after the transmission, which can increase the gear ratio, particularly for off-roading or other high torque applications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RWD.  Only the rear wheels are driven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FWD.  Only the front wheels are driven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, beyond AWD, FWD, and RWD, there are the front and rear differentials that can make a dramatic difference in how well a vehicle can handle low traction conditions.  The differential is what connects the drive-line to two output shafts, say the ones going to the wheels on the left and right sides.  It allows the wheels to turn at different rates as you go around corners.  The inside wheels will describe a smaller circle, and therefore travel less distance than the outside wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all differentials are created equal.  Normally, differentials are of a type called &quot;open&quot;.  A sad artifact of these differentials is that power goes to the wheel with the least traction.  So if one wheel is on ice, and one is on dry pavement, you will sit there spinning your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a huge variety of &quot;limited slip&quot; or &quot;locking&quot; differentials which either allow you to manually lock and unlock them, or automatically distribute power to both wheels.  These are more frequently found on sports cars, sometimes as additional-price option packs or upgrades, sometimes standard, in RWD and FWD cars.  They are also used in better AWD systems in the center, front, and/or rear differentials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some hybrid systems, such as Audi's quattro system.  Some models of this use a Torsen center limited slip differential, and open differentials in the front and back, but they do this trick where they use the ABS sensors to detect wheel spin, and then apply brakes to the spinning wheel, forcing it traction to go to the other wheels.  While not literally a limited slip differential in the front and back, this is still extremely effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, the manufacturers don't really make it clear what exactly their system is.  In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a lever or button to turn on AWD/4WD, it is a part-time system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AWD versus 4WD are basically the same, but 4WD tends to be used on off-road oriented vehicles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all AWD systems are created equal, so you'll have to research if you want specific functionality out of the system..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T08:16:49.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:27:59.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it resembles a repetitive knocking or loud clicking noise, it's probably your CV joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T08:27:59.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:38:45.847" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with your dealer or manufacturer to see if synthetic is usable in your car first of all.  For example, RX-7s have traditionally recommended against synthetic because they inject some oil into the combustion chamber and synthetic oils don't work as well for sealing the &quot;apex seals&quot; in this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, there is also a theory that synthetic oils may break down sludge and varnish which is sealing what would otherwise be leaks.  So switching to a synthetic may cause a car that has no leaks to start leaking.  I've never had that happen or known that to happen, but they do promote reducing sludge and varnish as a feature of synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have a turbocharged car, I'd use synthetic in it in any case.  Turbochargers run at extremely high temperatures and are lubricated and cooled by oil.  Synthetics react better to extremely high temperatures, so they are particularly useful in turbo applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've had some mixed results with Synthetics that make me question their worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One situation was an old '86 Subaru GL-10 wagon I had.  It had a turbo and I put Mobile-1 in the engine and Red Line in the trans-axle.  My wife and I took the car up to Canada on one trip where it was -25 to -45 degrees.  The car ran surprisingly well, including shifting, compared to my experience in Colorado which rarely gets below -10.  That was a clear win for the synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decade ago I had a '89 VW Vanagon that I put a new engine in.  After the initial break-in, I ran nothing by Mobile-1 in it.  I had all sorts of problems with it keeping oil pressure up, which went away when I switched to a high quality regular oil (Delo 400) at a mechanics' recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around 5 years ago my '97 Audi, which I had run from the first oil change with Mobile-1, had 2 of the lifters go quite badly, in what I'd consider a lubrication-related failure.  Here is a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKQgO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed lifters from my Audi&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, maybe this was a design problem, but I haven't heard of it being common on these engines.  SO my take on it is that, in my admittedly small sample size, the only lubrication-related failure I've ever had has been on the car I ran Mobil-1 in from the first oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I won't run Mobil-1 in my cars, and I'm mostly skeptical of it's competitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now running the Delo 400 traditional oil in my Audi that had the lifter problems -- around 100K miles since the lifter replacement and no problems.  In my other car, it takes some fairly unusual weight, and recommends synthetic, so I'm running Red Line in there, at around $10/qt.  Lucky for me it &quot;only&quot; takes 8 quarts for an oil change :-).  But, it's an expensive engine, with 40 valves, so I think it's worth the &quot;good stuff&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my transaxles, I've been extremely happy with Red Line, so I'm trying it in this engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T23:52:05.977" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T23:52:05.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:48:46.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used this specific lube, but in my old '86 Subaru GL-10 I did put in the lube that Red Line recommended for it, and I was extremely happy with the results.  I had also had some shifting difficulties where the synchros weren't working, and the Red Line MTL solved those problems.  Plus, in the very cold weather, I had no shifting problems that I'd seen previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the Red Line transmission lube lives up to it's hype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as whether it's appropriate for that car, ask the folks at Red Line HQ.  They were very helpful with recommending the right weight and type of lube for my GL-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T08:48:46.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:51:18.020" Score="12" ViewCount="138818" Body="&lt;p&gt;The radiator on my Peugeot 106 has started leaking very badly and needs replacing. I don't have time to fix it at the moment, so I'm taking it to a garage.  How far can I drive it without damaging the rest of the car? Or do I need to get it towed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="110" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T07:05:37.690" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T23:26:46.263" Title="How far can you drive with an empty radiator?" Tags="|radiator|peugeot|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:56:02.680" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend driving with an empty radiator, that could cause the engine to overheat as well as damaging the water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T08:56:02.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:59:46.437" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Xenon headlights require different electronics to drive them, but they also need different reflectors and also a light leveling system to prevent blinding the drivers of other cars, because the HID lights are so much brighter than traditional lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at a car with HID lights, with the lights shining on something in front of them, you will see that the lights basically cut off at a neat line along the top, where traditional lights illuminate up much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know someone with HID lights, ask them to show you when they start up.  The ones in my car move up and down as they adjust to the load in the car, so that a load in the trunk won't cause the lights to shine higher than they're allowed to and blind oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had done some research for my old '94 300ZX that I wanted to see if I could retrofit.  The kit for them was $3,000 a pair, because of the leveling system and the electronics to drive them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution?  I replaced it with a new car that had HID lights.  They are totally worth it, they are lovely lights and I find when I'm driving my other car without them I keep thinking &quot;are the lights on?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another caveat: Some places are selling &quot;cheap&quot; HID light kits from Japanese models.  However, they can't be used in the US or other left-hand-drive places because the left hand lights shine up higher than the right lights, and they can't just be swapped around.  The lights for LHD cars are the opposite, where the right light shines higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional details are available in this related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/351/kia-soul-aftermarket-headlights/&quot;&gt;KIA Soul Aftermarket Headlights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T08:24:49.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5541" CreationDate="2011-03-08T09:08:24.883" Score="8" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to prevent locks on car doors from freezing? This is usually only a problem in older cars. I'm not thinking of solutions like WD-40 that really only work for a few days and then are needed again, I would like a more permanent solution if anyone knows of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T07:02:52.370" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T07:04:57.237" Title="How to fix freezing locks" Tags="|freezing|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-08T09:54:20.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Check Engine&lt;/em&gt; light is an indicator lamp placed on the vehicle's dashboard. Typically amber or red coloured, this malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) indicates a problem with the computerized engine management system.&#xA;It often has an icon in the shape on an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if it is flashing on and off this means that a misfire that will damage the catalytic converter is occurring. In this case the engine should be turned and repaired before being returned to service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also include tag for the specific Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), such as &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/p0300&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;p0300&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;p0300&lt;/a&gt; if available.  Include tags for your make and model such as &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/chevrolet&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;chevrolet&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;chevrolet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/corvette&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;corvette&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;corvette&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T16:24:08.250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T16:24:08.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-08T09:54:20.983" Score="0" Body="An acronym for &quot;Check Engine Light&quot; warning light on a vehicle's dashboard." OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T16:23:57.340" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T16:23:57.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2011-03-08T11:57:59.550" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my Mazda Protege unused in my garage for over a year, and the fuel filter was clogged when I went to start it again. It started fine, but would not rev and was basically undriveable. I'm sure it wasn't great for the fuel injectors, too. Also, I once bought a motorcycle with 10 year old gas in the tank, and the bike wouldn't run at all. I could hear a cylinder occasionally fire, but the gas was totally unusable. I poured it into a metal bucket and lit it on fire. The carbs were very badly gummed up and clogged, too, and had to be torn apart and soaked in carb cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use STA-BIL you can store gas for over a year without issue. Just make sure you run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the STA-BIL through the car. Once gas goes slightly bad, you can still use it if you put a little (1 gallon) in an (almost) full tank of fresh gas. The stuff I pulled out of the motorcycle was much darker than normal, and smelled so bad that I didn't even consider using it in an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning to store a vehicle for a very long time, it makes sense to spend the time to totally drain the fuel system. It's cheaper than replacing the fuel system, later on, due to dried up, gummy gas deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some info I found on the STA-BIL website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How long will STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer keep fuel fresh? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: For 12 months when mixed into fresh gasoline. Doubling the dosage will keep fuel fresh for up to 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T11:57:59.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:07:26.517" Score="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem for all air conditioners (in a car or not), and is caused by mildew growth. In cars it often happens when people run their A/C on the recirculation all of the time, or the drain gets clogged. The system doesn't dry out completely and mildew starts to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be concerned about your health, especially if you have allergies. Just imagine all that mildew and god knows what else growing in there and being spewed in your face every time you turn the A/C on... Here's a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20110317171724/https://www.epa.gov/iedmold1/moldresources.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US EPA page&lt;/a&gt; describing how mold may affect health, if you are still not convinced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things you should do to remove the cause of your problem and prevent it from happening again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run it on recirculation &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; when&#xA;something stinks outside, or you want&#xA;it to cool down quickly. Fresh air&#xA;from outside will help it dry out&#xA;better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your A/C drain isn't&#xA;clogged and there is no water&#xA;building up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is what you could do to remove the unpleasant effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run the heater on full for a while,&#xA;that will dry out the system and&#xA;might 'cook' the mildew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change your cabin air filter (if you have one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are special sprays sold to&#xA;remove the mildew from the A/C system&#xA;(read the instructions carefully&#xA;before using them). Just using Lysol&#xA;or some other stuff like that will work&#xA;too, but the smell will be more unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you do all of this, and in the specified order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="44970" LastEditDate="2022-08-23T17:18:33.673" LastActivityDate="2022-08-23T17:18:33.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:43:37.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jeep is a brand of vehicles currently manufactured by the Fiat Chrysler Automotive (FCA) Group.  It is also the oldest off-road vehicle brand, with the first vehicle being produced in 1941.  Over the years, Jeep has built thousands of off-road utility vehicles, including the CJ, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee, and newer additions like the Commander, Patriot, Liberty and Compass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="43108" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T02:24:03.167" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T02:24:03.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:43:37.827" Score="0" Body="Jeep is a brand of vehicles currently manufactured by the Fiat Chrysler Automotive (FCA) Group. " OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="43108" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T02:24:09.803" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T02:24:09.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:47:50.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case where you run it too hot, you could start messing up your head gasket or warping the head itself. If you have to, in a warm climate, use distilled water or just keep replacing the antifreeze until you can get it somewhere, after which you'll have to have the whole system flushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in a cold climate your engine block could freeze and crack. Definitely &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; use water in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you just leaking from a hose or the radiator somewhere? You might already have a blown head gasket and you could be burning off the antifreeze in the engine. Is there any film or other liquid in your oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tow it if it's as bad as you say; head gasket repair can run $600 - $1,000 or more. A few bottles of antifreeze to get you there is obviously a considerably smaller investment (though I'm not sure how much your city will like you leaking antifreeze all over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T13:00:53.777" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T13:00:53.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:49:31.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda is the second largest Japanese automobile manufacturer, the sixth largest automobile manufacturer in the world and the world's largest motorcycle manufacturer.  Honda is the largest manufacturer of internal combustion engines globally producing more than 14 million internal combustion engines each year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of the Honda automotive logo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSU9q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSU9q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:28:45.057" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:28:45.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:49:31.220" Score="0" Body="a Japanese auto and motorcycle maker which produces vehicles for worldwide use, producing models such as the Civic, Accord, Ridgeline, and Odyssey." OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T00:40:02.917" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T00:40:02.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:54:31.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Volkswagen&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHQT1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHQT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:57:55.360" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:57:55.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:54:31.387" Score="0" Body="VW, or Volkswagen, is a German automaker with worldwide presence, producing vehicles such as the Golf/Rabbit, Jetta, Passat and Eos." OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="3679" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T20:06:16.657" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T20:06:16.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="184" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:58:08.913" Score="6" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dented the tray under my gas tank, reducing my capacity by about a gallon. It's a wide dent; there's no damage to the plastic. I'd like to drop the tank and pound out the dent in the aluminum tray. Draining the gas, removing the fuel lines, fill hose, electrical running to the gas pump, and the straps seems pretty straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I hook everything back up, will the car start right up again? I don't exactly know how the car will handle any air that's entered the lines, or will the automatic choke and gas pump take care of everything?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard some cars, after running out of gas, need to be filled to a certain level before they'll attempt to start again. Should I have a small tank or a 5-6 gallon tank standing by? What little I drain out will probably not be going back into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2007 Pontiac G6 -- does anybody know if the tank is anchored to the bottom of the chassis by anything other than the straps? I've seen some cars have a clip or bolt under the seat in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T13:06:37.970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:47:17.763" Title="The tray under my gas tank is dented. What should I be aware of before draining and removing my gas tank?" Tags="|fuel-tank|fuel-line|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:00:34.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check that the lugs are tight.  If the lugs aren't tightened enough, the wheel might have a slight amount of slop and will vibrate.  Obviously this is a very dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T13:00:34.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="159" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:06:01.450" Score="5" ViewCount="1361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a high mileage (130K) used Saturn (98 SW2). I do not know the maintenance history of the car or if it has been kept to the maintenance schedule. What things should I avoid working on? For example, I have read that a regular flush of the trans. fluid is good UNLESS it has not been done regularly, which could foul things up in a hurry. I would like to avoid killing the car while trying to extend the life of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:59:31.483" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:59:31.483" Title="Maintenance on used car with unknown history" Tags="|saturn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="161" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:32:46.377" Score="5" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Dodge Neon SRT-4 with about 81,000 miles that is used for amateur occasional drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What grade and type of oil would be the best to improve my performance while still preserving the engine for daily drive during the summer period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="1544" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T18:19:22.480" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:57:53.410" Title="Which oil grade and kind should I use on a sport car that does amateur drag?" Tags="|oil|dodge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="168" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:32:55.223" Score="7" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tape deck in my car which only gets used to read one of those dummy tapes that feeds from a 3.5mm headphone jack. I have no use for a CD player and would not like (nor can I afford) a new head unit. I was wondering if there is a reasonably strait-forward way to expose some sort of auxiliary input for hooking up an mp3 player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:03:34.347" Title="Wire a headphone jack into a head unit" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:42:30.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you are uncertain of the history of the car, you should take the view that nothing has been done yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick checklist is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Oil &amp;amp; Filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator fluid (also get one of the good cleaners that you leave in the car for ~200 miles, but be careful as the outside temperature cannot get below freezing while this cleaner is in your system).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt/chain (due to the cost of replacing this, you can check the condition of the belt and if it is in good shape, you can skip it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the brake fluid, make sure it looks the proper color and has no foreign objects in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the spark plugs, see if there is corrosion or if the plugs are damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the transmission fluid, see if there is foreign matter in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the brake pads/drums for wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tires for balance and any unusual wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the fuel filter and get a high quality fuel system cleaner and put that in with a tankful of fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the A/C freon levels, add freon as necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your mechanical level, you may take the car to a trusted mechanic and tell them the situation and they can go over the whole car and tune it up.  It will be worth a few hundred dollars to find out if there is anything you need to be worried about before something breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I have never heard that replacing the transmission fluid regularly is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T13:42:30.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:43:49.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to most pickup trucks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2WD - RWD — only the rear wheels turn. If the diff's have limited slip they will allow some variation across axles in tire speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4WD High — all 4 wheels are driven.  If the diff's have limited slip they will allow limited variation across axles in tire speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4WD Low — all 4 wheels are driven.  All diff's are locked.  This forces all 4 wheels to turn at exactly the same speed.  This is meant for low speed, limited operation only.  EX. off-roading, or pulling someone out of a ditch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to most SUV's &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full time - AWD — Like 4WD High.  May not have limited slip. All 4 wheels are always driven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part time - AWD — Like Full time, however may have a switch to disengage or more likely will engage or disengage based upon speed variance between axles. IE. From a stop, 4 wheels are driven until x speed and all wheels are turning at the same rate. Generally the front wheels are always powered. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acura's SH-AWD — This is a special case where they have devised a system to actually speed up the outside wheel in a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T20:00:22.937" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T20:00:22.937" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-08T13:43:49.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="157" CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:57:45.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to improve your cars performance, then I suggest you try something different. Your gains from using a different viscosity oil will be laughable (if there will be any), especially compared to any proper performance-oriented change. Unless, of course, if what you can do with the engine is limited by regulations and you are exploring the last remaining possibilities to get those extra split seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always use engine oil with the viscosity specified by your car's manufacturer (unless you have been doing something with the engine and/or oil pump), definitely NOT with higher viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using synthetic oil instead of semi-synthetic might be a good idea, if you want to prolong your engine's life. It usually has better properties and retains them for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably should also be noted that semi-synthetic oil actually is mineral oil mixed with synthetic in unspecified proportions. So you really never know what you are paying for unless you really trust the manufacturer for some reason, or you have a mobile lab handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:56:49.243" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:56:49.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:09:25.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much you are leaking. I've had a leak in a radiator and had to take it somewhere a few times, here's what I usually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the radiator completely full of water. If you can get it loaded, and it takes more than a few minutes to drain, you can proceed to step two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive slower than normal to your destination. Keep a spare gallon of water in your vehicle. Keep glancing at the temperature gauge. If you see it go above the mid line, then pull over immediately. Wait for the vehicle to cool down, and replace the antifreeze. Or else just call a tow company.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to take a vehicle at least 5, maybe 10, miles by following this advice. I should say that I live in an area that never freezes, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:09:25.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:15:44.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back pressure on a downhill will be greater - especially if the auto has overdrive, this should prevent the shift to overdrive.  See other posts for reasons to prevent shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:15:44.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:19:41.307" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have observed this - kind of like an acrid or &quot;vinegar&quot; smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can help prevent this by turning OFF the air conditioner a couple/few minutes prior to turning off the auto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others said, it is caused by growth of biological bacteria/fungal and turning off early helps dry the system and assists in prevention as it reduces the moisture retained in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:19:41.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="183" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:27:32.003" Score="7" ViewCount="2761" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/multi+fluid+extractor.do?search=basic&amp;amp;keyword=fluid&amp;amp;sortby=newArrivals&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Griots Garage multi-fluid extractor&lt;/a&gt; is an example of a tool that certainly seems amazingly useful and convenient. If you haven't seen it before, the concept is that a semi-rigid tube is inserted into the dip stick. A vacuum is generated in the cylinder which then pulls the fluid out like a straw sucking up a particularly disgusting milkshake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my question: will this extractor drain at least as much oil from a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX as I would remove by opening the drain plug?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear from the geometry of the dipstick hole that the tube will be able to reach low enough and the right angle turn at the bottom is too tight to further insert it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-up: would it be better to jack up the rear of the car to push the oil further forward in the sump to aid access to the extractor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:53:40.777" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:53:40.777" Title="How much oil will this fluid extractor extract?" Tags="|subaru|tools|oil-change|wrx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:30:10.093" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad actually brought back a truck (big type semi) from a condition like this - it had a manual transmission but we did the maintenance stuff, replace belts, oil, lubricants etc.  THEN we hooked up a chain, put it in gear and proceeded to drag it (tow) (in gear) for a while (a half hour to an hour?) at a slow speed - this allowed the engine to be fully lubricated prior to actually attempting to start it.  NOTE: this had been parked for YEARS (20?) and the engine was actually frozen (pistons locked in due to corrosion/old dry lube etc.) so we had a bit more than a casual amount of rubber and stuff to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We removed the pan and scraped etc. old gunk out used a light weight oil, then changed it after just a few hours of initial operation (with filter change) to help clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:30:10.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:41:12.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience with a number of Subarus (my current oldest one being an MY2000 Impreza turbo with PPP and 130,000 miles on the clock) I can state that a strut brace makes an amazing amount of difference to both my usage (definitely enthusiastic) and my wife's (normal commute plus kids to school etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stiffened the handling up significantly, makes cornering feel much more precise and makes her feel safer when driving. This is an old, well used car - and before adding the strut brace it did feel 'tired' - maybe the wrong word, but everything does get looser with age:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me it just makes some maneuvers on the track feel much less likely to upset the balance of the car - essential at 140mph plus!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:05:25.740" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:05:25.740" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="158" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:44:11.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is an FM modulator -- a device that you install between your car antenna and the stereo. A device like this (I'm not recommending this particular device, just using it as an example):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0007THIDQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Audio-FM-Modulator-Universal/dp/B0007THIDQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can plug your MP3 player into the modulator and the signal travels straight into the radio! The setup looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRsP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FM Modulator Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:44:11.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:44:19.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely that something has been pushed out of alignment during the repair - you need to inspect for things in that line of thought - look for places where parts have been rebolted/tightened and they are not exactly as they were or something that has been twisted etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make the assumption you are speaking of the latch mechanicals - which are often removed/moved during a radiator change - and are often located on top of or a part of the same structure that holds the latch/radiator.  Look for ways to make adjustements there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T14:44:19.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="182" CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:20:06.807" Score="4" ViewCount="4447" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back door in a Jeep Grand Cherokee (1998) is always reading open, even when it's closed quite firmly. This causes the vehicle to beep when the car is being driven. I've taken apart the door, played with the sensor until it reads closed again, put everything back together, and give it a final test, to which it stops working again. Do I need to replace the sensor, or just learn to fix the sensor better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:52:24.623" Title="Rear hatch always reads open" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="191" CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:59:39.857" Score="5" ViewCount="38513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 Yamaha FZX 750, and I can't find a replacement air filter for it.  What's the best method to clean the air filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T05:09:22.940" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T04:04:13.537" Title="How to Clean a Paper Air Filter" Tags="|motorcycle|air-filter|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:18:02.597" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should you check/clean/replace on a Motorcycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the oil (10w40) and filter twice a year&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Periodically check the tires for pressure, cracks, bumps (I forget the technical term), wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the chain (I believe every 500km is the standard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tension the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I don't do, but maybe should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbs (clean/calibrate) - I'm a little scared to touch them since it's a 4 cylinder engine and I know you have to be very careful fooling around with the settings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace/clean air filter - I'm not sure how often to do this, but I don't think it has ever been done on my bike...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace chain - I'm not sure how often this should be done, but I find my chain stretches a little more every year and has to be replaced occasionally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork maintenance - I take it to a shop to have the fork seals fixed every time they start leaking, but I'm not sure if there's anything I can do to prolong their life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be a community wiki kind of question, since there may be more than one correct answer, but I don't see the option.  Anything outside the accepted answer, I'll add to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T01:46:49.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:46:49.513" Title="Motorcycle Maintenance" Tags="|motorcycle|scheduled-maintenance|chain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-03-08T16:57:37.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="177" CreationDate="2011-03-08T17:49:33.703" Score="12" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, where is the best place to put a jack to prevent damage when lifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T21:52:16.607" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:29:41.413" Title="Proper Jack Location" Tags="|frame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2011-03-08T17:52:23.357" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jack should be placed under a frame member or on the axle.  Also, before you crawl underneath a vehicle that has been lifted by a jack, you should have an additional support in place, such as a jack stand, to protect yourself in case the jack fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T17:52:23.357" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="180" CreationDate="2011-03-08T17:55:28.687" Score="8" ViewCount="16530" Body="&lt;p&gt;My headliner has started to sag right over the front passenger. While it is not causing me any issues (it is not so low that it hits the passenger or distracts me) it is very ugly. What is the best way to go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T17:45:40.983" Title="How do I fix a sagging headliner" Tags="|cosmetic|interior|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:16:11.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had this problem once too in an older truck. There are a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-upholster it. You could do this yourself, or have it professionally done. If you were to do it, you would need to remove the trim pieces in the inside along the roof, and then remove the fabric. It may be attached to the sheet metal with some plastic clips. You will want to save as many of these as you can. Then, make a decision as to whether you want to completely remove the old fabric, cover over it, or just tighten it. Then put the new fabric on, using some adhesive in the middle, and use some staples to stale the back side of the fabric near the ends, that would be covered up by the trim. Re-install, and you should be good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tack it up. You could easily do this yourself, just use some small metal screws that match the color of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:45:01.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:45:01.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:16:50.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend an adhesive that is designed for headliners (ala &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-16-3-4-oz-aerosol-can-heavy-duty-headliner-and-carpet-adhesive/_/N-259v;jsessionid=A01F3385DC6D55E4885B3AD24F5CD22A.diyprod2-b2c4?counter=0&amp;amp;itemIdentifier=130215_0_0_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Permatex&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to this would be contact cement, although you might have some bleedthrough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the headliner has stretched with age you might need to buy a new headliner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T18:16:50.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="193" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:21:13.070" Score="4" ViewCount="39469" Body="&lt;p&gt;This past summer, I inherited a '95 Pontiac Grand Am that, while looking under the hood, I noticed someone had removed the air conditioning unit. I drove it throughout the summer and it wasn't until the winter that I noticed that it was taking a great deal of time for the car to warm up (something you notice quite quickly in northern Wisconsin). It was then I realized the engine cooling fans where constantly running. Just to make sure there was nothing else up, I double checked the radiator and engine coolant hoses and found no leaks and the levels were all normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, besides just running cooler, are there any other things that I need to be concerned about with the fans running constantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:48:40.757" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:51:27.507" Title="Cooling fans constantly run" Tags="|pontiac|grand-am|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="172" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:05:01.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor itself is only part of the equation. There is also: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wiring from the sensor to the computer module.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object that strikes the sensor (the door itself, or a striker on the door).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor works consistently when you manually press it, then it tells me that it's not getting reliably pressed by the door when the door is closed. This could be because the striker or door is out of adjustment or because the sensor itself doesn't sit properly in its hole. If the door has been involved in an accident at some point, this is an area to examine very closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor is intermittent even when manually pressing it, then test the sensor with an ohmmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:05:01.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="165" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:30:08.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This concept works surprisingly well on &lt;em&gt;some engines&lt;/em&gt;. As you have mentioned, the issue is whether the dipstick tube allows full access to the sump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unclear from this diagram whether the tube would reach down into the sump. It's also unclear if the tube would run into a baffle or the pickup tube instead of going all the way to the bottom of the sump. To really and truly know for sure on a specific vehicle, I think you'd just have to try it and then pull the plug to see what's left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I don't think lifting the back will do much, the design is already leaving the oil no choice but to go into the sump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do try this, get the engine oil really hot so the extractor can suck it with ease, otherwise you'll be waiting all day. This is one nice part about an extractor, that hot oil isn't splashing all over you as you pull the drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQjjl.png&quot; alt=&quot;WRX oil pan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:30:08.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:47:17.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel pump combined with the fuel pressure regulator should take care of any air in the lines. If you don't like the idea of cranking the car continuously until it starts (it would take 3 cycles or so), then turn the key into the &quot;on&quot; position without cranking it. This causes the fuel pump to run, because it primes the fuel system in anticipation of cranking. You may hear the pump running. Turn it off and on several times, and the fuel pressure regulator should allow the fuel to reach the injectors. It should crank up on the first start at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as there is enough fuel to surround the fuel pump, the pump will be able to pick it up and send it forward. On most cars 2-3 gallons should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need a full repair manual for this specific car to answer the rest. There may be additional anchors or special considerations in how to lower the tank to avoid breaking lines that can't be seen above the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to watch out for static as you work around all of those fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:47:17.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-03-08T22:49:46.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's paper based, your ability to clean it is somewhat limited.  Mechanically agitating it (i.e. with a brush) is iffy since you run the risk of damaging the filter element.  You can try shooting compressed air from the opposite direction of the filter but that really only removes the larger chunks of dirt, and if you're not careful, can also damage the element.  If you look closely between the pleats, you find that the microscopic pores in the paper element are all clogged with particles that aren't readily removable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, any cleaning you can perform without damaging the filter will have negligible gains in airflow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:37:07.500" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:37:07.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2011-03-08T22:53:26.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you can find a non VVTi 1MZ from a camry or from an engine importer?  I would check with the dealer to see if the bottom end is compatible with your heads and electronics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative would be to swap an entire VVTi 1MZ - longblock + ecu + sensors + wiring harness.  I don't think it would be neccessarily a whole lot more work, and you get yourself a nice little upgrade in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T22:53:26.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="157" CreationDate="2011-03-08T22:58:21.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some Honda guys that run 0W-20, but that is much too thin for the 2.4L SRT motor. People in the Neon community run 5w-30 or 10w-30 (pretty much the standard for turbo 4bangers nowadays).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is risk of cars that have been running non-synthetic leaking through seals after switching to synthetic oils with higher detergent content.  However, I have done this on many 100k+ mile cars and have never witnessed this.  Turbocharged cars should always run synthetic, as standard oil has the tendency to coke up the oil lines near the exhaust end of the turbo.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would make the switch to full synthetic - Royal Purple or Amsoil.  If you burn a little, no big deal - add some more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:57:53.410" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:57:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:10:44.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it depends on the chassis.  Since the GG chassis Impreza is relatively stiff to begin with, I'd say any effect would be near-placebo.  Improvements would be in steering/cornering feel, rather than something that can be measured quantitatively, like better lap times.  Also, they make a LOT of different braces for your particular car - not just the strut tower brace.  Look into Cusco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put strut braces on S13/S14 240s where the ride stiffened up noticeably and cornering seemed a tad more responsive.  However on higher mileage cars, this effect was almost negated by the next weakest link - worn suspension bushings, worn shocks, inadequate anti-roll bars, worn/misaligned tires/suspension.  I've put a strut tower brace on a brand new M3 (brace was an actual M Motorsports part) that wasn't noticeable at all given the quality of the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that the design of the brace is important.  There are cheap ebay braces that just attach at both strut towers that can flex by stepping on it with your foot.  Quality braces will mount on several points - both strut towers and two attachment points on the firewall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;to be more aligned with your original question..  years ago we worked on an old datsun.  New control arms.  new steering bits.  new racing coilover setup.  new wheels and tires.  all new bushings replaced.   And when the car was pushed to the limit?  The chassis flexed.  You can almost hear it in some places.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sure fire solution? Seam welding and/or a roll cage.  Your car may be a daily driver, but nothing looks as awesome as a cage in a street car :)  (eclipsed only by contusions suffered from smashing your un-helmeted head against the cage).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More anectdotal &quot;information&quot;.  I had spoken to a pretty established chassis shop that worked primarily on Evolutions.  They had seen cars with all manner of aftermarket bracing - front/rear stbs, front &quot;power&quot; brace, braces in the trunk, braces that went under the fender.. braces underneath the car that tied the frame rails together.  While these upgrades enhanced steering feel and overall &quot;stiffness&quot;, in practice these cars weren't as fast as cars with well sorted out &quot;dialed in&quot; suspension.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T00:58:46.320" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:58:46.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:12:57.660" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars falling off jackstands are no fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're careful you can heat up the rotor with a torch prior to whacking it with a heavy mallet.  If you're not careful, you run the risk of warping the rotor (which is ok if you're getting a new one).  Don't try this near fuel lines or the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T23:12:57.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:16:08.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some cars, the cooling fans have their own thermostats or are triggered by coolant temp readings on your ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you don't want your motor to overheat, you want it reaching operating temperature quickly as this is where your motor is most efficient - e.g. lower emissions, better mileage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T23:16:08.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:36:49.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with NoCarrier, you really have to tackle the source of the problem, which is the ability to get a new filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm iffy about recommending eBay, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AIR-FILTER-YAMAHA-FZX-750-FAZER-87-89-/280639733700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt; has a stellar rating, and seems to specialize in motorcycles. He has a listing for this filter with a quantity of 10+. Communicate with him to see if this will work out for you, and consider buying multiples to help offset shipping costs (he's in the UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is an after-market filter. It may be possible to modify the airbox to allow a custom filter to be used. This isn't plan A, but it's better than trying to keep a paper filter going past its expiration date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:36:05.620" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:36:05.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:43:27.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your fans running constantly indicate a problem. From what I've found in my search, the fans are supposed to come on when your a/c is on, which considering you don't have one anymore might be what started all this. Perhaps the &quot;turn fans on&quot; control from the a/c is active low? With it gone, the fans would then run all the time. But the fan control might come from the ECM. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram for the car. Do you have a shop manual for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans running constantly would obviously slow down your car's ability to heat up the cabin. The only other worry would be related to my comment above. If you are sure that the actual engine temp is normal, there's no problem. I can think of a scenario where it would be bad such as if the coolant pump impeller is worn. The fans would be trying to make up for it and the cabin temp would be slow to rise because the coolant wouldn't be circulating through the heater core properly. But if that were the case, the temp gauge on your dash would show the overheating issue so I doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might wire up a switch in series with the fans to keep them off. But keep an eye on your temp gage to be sure everything's Kosher without them. That's sort of a Sanford and Son approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:51:27.507" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:51:27.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:48:15.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have two problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the cooling fans running all of the time, the engine thermostat should force the engine to warm up at a normal speed. The thermostat will regulate the coolant to the radiator/fans if it is working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be normal for the cooling fans to run constantly under certain conditions. If the car is hot enough, they may be barely keeping up with demand and stay on.  Also, most cars will run the fans at a high speed if the A/C is turned on. However, when you first start up a stone cold car with the A/C off, they should not be running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are, the ECU is commanding them on falsely (bad temp sensor or it thinks the missing A/C compressor is &quot;on&quot;) or the relay may be stuck closed. Usually you can find another relay of the same type in your fuse box and switch them to see what happens. Testing at the relay would also reveal if the ECU is constantly requesting the relay to the on position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T23:48:15.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="198" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:20:19.770" Score="2" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Ford F250 RWD that I use very rarely. I take it around the block once a month to make sure it still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while ago I noticed that the rear differential was leaking from (what appeared to be) the cover gasket. I replaced the gasket and it's still leaking. It now seems that the differential is leaking up where the driveshaft enters the differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is likely to be the problem here? I couldn't find any relevant info in my repair manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T00:29:33.633" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:44:37.097" Title="How to fix rear differential leak on 1974 Ford F250" Tags="|ford|f-250|rear-differential|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="181" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:21:06.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you describe the behavior - are both fans running constantly, or is one cycling w/ the other constantly on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern cars with electric fans usually have 2 - one for regular cooling (typically switched by the ECU) and an auxiliary fan for AC.  Aux fan control is generally run by a relay, usually tied to whatever engages the compressor clutch (typically the AC switch on your dashboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be willing to bet when the compressor was removed, someone jumpered out the cooling fan relay(s) so both fans run constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:21:06.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:41:39.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  have used a sledgehammer many times with great success. If you don't have a sledge, sitting on the ground and kicking the rotor (with heavy boots) works just as well. BUT I use 4 jackstands and the jack to support the car if I need to use this technique, because it's obviously dangerous. Loosely install one lug nut prior to trying either of these options to keep the rotor from flying off. I never had any issues with wheel bearings afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:41:39.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="295" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:44:17.940" Score="4" ViewCount="25862" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary of the situation:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1975 Ford truck that suffered from the &quot;Ford flashing headlight problem&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factory wiring uses 18ga wires over a very long path and through an under-rated switch to power the headlights. When someone &quot;upgrades&quot; the headlights to halogens, the increased load overheats the switch causing its internal breaker to trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is insert a relay and use heavier wires (14ga) to carry the power to the headlights over a shorter trip. You can read about it here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/039/article/Whiter_Whites_Brighter_Brights.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/039/article/Whiter_Whites_Brighter_Brights.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original wiring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwR37.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IwR37.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Revised wiring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVx4g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVx4g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a 20A fuse correct here? It seems too high for 14ga wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should there be a fuse on the control line for the relay (contact #85)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A couple months ago my first Garage SE question would have been &quot;why do the headlights on my truck flash?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T21:56:16.647" LastActivityDate="2022-04-02T23:59:50.490" Title="What's the correct fusing for a headlight relay?" Tags="|electrical|fuse|relay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="194" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:44:37.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pinion seal is most likely bad.  Assuming this is a Ford 9&quot; rear end...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to remove the driveshaft yoke to replace it (the piece your driveshaft bolts to on the third member).  You shouldn't have to remove the third member to replace the seal either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember when you reinstall the nut adjusts the preload on the pinion, so you can't just torque that nut down tight and call it a day.  I believe the preload torque is measured in inch-lbs, so obviously you don't want to attack it w/ a gigantic cheater bar or 1/2&quot; drive impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're familiar with the concept of installing wheel bearings you will know what I'm talking about in regards to bearing preload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:44:37.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="321" CreationDate="2011-03-09T00:47:53.413" Score="10" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;In replacing my worn endlinks recently with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16192&amp;amp;cat=253&amp;amp;page=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lovely Kartboy pieces&lt;/a&gt;, I noticed that I had a seized bolt in one of the rear links. I was able to get a short-term replacement until I order a new Kartboy bolt but I noticed that they do not carry bolts for the wagon fronts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specs for the front bolt on the sway bar endlink for the 2004 WRX wagon? Is there an easy source for such a part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:49:01.663" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:49:47.403" Title="What bolt is a replacement for the front sway bar bolts on a 2004 Subaru WRX wagon?" Tags="|subaru|suspension|wrx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="104" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:02:26.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoke, propane, stethoscope, and carb cleaner all work well. The last option is highly flammable and much more dangerous than propane because it sits and accumulates on the engine. It doesn't evaporate all that quickly, either. It's a very effective way to check a particular spot, to see if your hunch is right, but it's &lt;em&gt;essential&lt;/em&gt; that you have a good fire extinguisher right nearby if you want to go down that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T01:02:26.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="104" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:16:16.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used soapy water with some measure of success in the past.  Just put some dishwashing liquid and water in a spray bottle and spray each section of each hose.  Keep your eyes open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T01:16:16.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="255" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:36:06.540" Score="6" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gen VI 454 in my Suburban that needs some work. I'm thinking about turning it into a 496 stroker. Once I find a list of mechanical components (crank, cam, pistons, heads... everything) that I'm happy with (and that are verified to work properly), I'll need to deal with the fuel system. I'm sure I'll have to get uprated fuel injectors to work with the added displacement of the new motor, but will the ECU need to get reprogrammed, too? Who does that? How do they test that it actually works? This truck will be a tow vehicle almost exclusively, and the fuel system has to be calibrated properly so that it doesn't go lean and burn up the pistons. Also, is a carburetor a viable option in a vehicle that still gets emissions tested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T01:53:51.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:51:38.247" Title="How to tune the ECU / fuel trim in a custom-built engine" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="202" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:41:08.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are a plethora of custom programmers for the Suburban platform. However, if you're making such extensive modifications, you can probably look at some standalone solutions, like an Accel DFI or Haltech setup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuners typically dial in a baseline map and strap your vehicle to a dyno where they adjust fuel/timing curves according to wideband O2 readings sampled from your tailpipe or further up the exhaust. The goal is to get steady consistent power output without triggering the knock sensor or getting unwanted detonation/timing retard, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:51:38.247" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:51:38.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="209" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:57:47.410" Score="16" ViewCount="7610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Toyota Soarer SC300 (1994), 2JZ motor non-turbo 3 litre engine. The engine is probably irrelevant, but provided for posterity. Anyway, the front rotors were machined and are within the legal limit and my rear rotors were replaced, as well as 4 sets of brand new Bendix brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was all done about 3 months ago. I am not a heavy driver, nor am I a heavy braker either. However, recently, my brakes have started squealing really badly, a high pitched squeal which hurts your ears. It doesn't happen all of the time, surprisingly, just a lot of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend told me that it could be brake dust or even dirt causing it as his does the same thing sometimes. Should I be concerned about this and what can I do about it? Surely my front rotors haven't worn down or brake pads worn away already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:53:19.710" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T02:33:48.970" Title="My Car Squeals When Braking Even Though I've Had My Front Rotors Machined and Back Rotors Replaced and all new brake pads. What could it be?" Tags="|toyota|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-03-09T02:00:36.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely should try and find a new filter and because the filter is paper based your options are limited cleaning wise. If you own an air compressor, try limiting the amount of air coming out to the closest lowest setting and blow air gently into the filter which might help clean it slightly, but eventually you won't be able to clean it properly any more and you might be opening up a can of problems the longer you leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T02:00:36.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2011-03-09T02:11:13.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same thing happen with a 98 Ford Escort. I also tried all the anti-chatter/noise goo they sell at the parts stores. Nothing worked, until I replaced the pads with ceramics. Be warned though, that they may accelerate the wear of your rotors. For me this wasn't a deal breaker as the brake screech was intolerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T02:11:13.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:00:24.563" Score="3" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird that had a Mallory ignition.  The Mallory ignition started to show signs of wearing out, as the motor would run for a few minutes and suddenly die, only to start back up about 20 to 30 minutes later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it got past the initial start -&gt; die -&gt; wait 20 minutes -&gt; start again cycle, you could go anywhere.  You could drive all over the city to the North and South around to the West and back to the East.  No problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a replacement and installed it.  The car wouldn't start.  After more reading, it became clear that the Mallory ignition -- the new one -- was faulty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centuryperformance.com/mallory-unilite-and-e-spark-testing-spg-150.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Century Performance Mallory Module Testing Site&lt;/a&gt; said that shorts in the electrical system could fry the module.  Upon further investigation, I found several disconnected or loose grounds, which I fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pertronix and the MSD website take a different approach to their modules.  Whereas Mallory claims that it's operator error when a module fries and has absolutely nothing to do with poor engineering, MSD proudly stands behind their product with a warranty and some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msdignition.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-4970.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spike-absorbing materials&lt;/a&gt; that protect the module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that I've fixed the loose grounds that I've found, is it safe to install the Pertronix distributor or an MSD ignition?  Are there any tests I can run myself to determine if it's safe to proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-10-07T21:39:05.667" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T21:39:05.667" Title="Installing New Distributor on a 1968 Ford Thunderbird With 186,000 Miles" Tags="|ford|distributor|thunderbird|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:04:31.090" Score="4" ViewCount="8002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of a couple methods for removing rust from rattling a chain/sand/rocks with diesel fuel in the tank to doing an acid treatment.  Is this something I should attempt to do, pay for a professional repair, or just replace all together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:57:14.777" Title="How to remove rust from gas tank?" Tags="|rust|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:04:57.240" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to bed the brakes in properly.  Be very careful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm&lt;/a&gt;  follow these instructions (at your own risk).  A friend had a similar car as yours (IS300) and had the same problem.  Once I bedded the rotors in, noise was minimized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T03:04:57.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:36:25.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evaporated / sprayed electrolyte is corrosive.&lt;/strong&gt; If you see corrosion on the battery posts, the leads, or in the vicinity, that's why. A layer of silicone dielectric grease over the exposed metal parts will protect them. I especially like to get some on the threads of screws in that area, to make sure they come apart easily in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You want as much metal-metal surface area as possible between the battery posts and the terminals.&lt;/strong&gt; Remember &lt;code&gt;V=IR&lt;/code&gt;, which says that as current and resistance increase, so does voltage drop. Resistance is proportional to the cross sectional area of the conductor. So, if you draw a high current through battery leads that don't have much contact area with the posts, you will lose a lot of voltage through that connection (as heat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you want a really good connection between these metal surfaces, why would you put &lt;em&gt;dielectric&lt;/em&gt; (non-conductive) grease in between them? Because these surfaces are not perfectly smooth. At the high points they touch, and at the low points there are gaps. Dielectric grease will get smooshed in to the gaps, keeping out moisture and electrolyte. You only need a very thin layer here, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As metal corrodes it expands. This will push apart the metal-metal contact at the battery posts. So, good to have the dielectric grease to stop that corrosion, and good to apply proper torque to the battery terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only times cars usually see heavy loads is during starting and immediately after as the battery is recharged. You probably won't see enough heat buildup in that time for it to matter much, until you the battery is old and you try to start on a cold morning. Then the voltage drop across the battery connection will be enough to make it difficult to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's a much bigger deal with off-grid homes and RVs, where the loads are continuous and the power source is scarce.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T03:41:53.263" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T03:41:53.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="212" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:06:31.607" Score="11" ViewCount="6956" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago, I bought a used 2005 Chevy Malibu. Then, just last summer, I had to replace the front turn signal bulbs on both sides twice within a month because they kept burning out. I noticed that the orange lens above the bulbs was actually melted and dripping molten plastic onto the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've inspected other similar make/model cars and haven't seen melted lenses on them. I always look up the proper bulb in the manual at the store, so I don't know if the bulbs are burning so hot they melt the lens or what. I haven't had any burn out lately, but I suspect it may only be due to the colder weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I am using the correct bulbs, any suggestions on preventing them from burning out so quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:58:23.393" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T00:53:24.423" Title="Why are my turn signal lenses melting?" Tags="|chevrolet|turn-signal|malibu|epsilon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="211" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:48:23.683" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Malibu/2005/electrical/front_turn_signal_bulbs_burn_out_at_the_bulb_base.shtml&quot;&gt;These 2005 Chevy Malibu Complaints&lt;/a&gt; are extremely common in this make and model vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Car Complaints, this was a design flaw in the vehicle that caused the bulbs to burn so hot that they burned out the lights and melted the turn signal covers.  The gaps introduced by the warped light covers have led to electrical system horror stories about failed electrical systems due to shorts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have been in car crashes because their lights were out while others ended up in legal trouble with repair orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick fix is to replace the standard 3157 bulbs with the 3157 LCP bulbs, which don't melt the covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T04:48:23.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="217" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:49:05.033" Score="2" ViewCount="2559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had two different Lincoln Mark VIIIs - one 1993, and currently one 1996 LSC.  Both are &quot;first generation&quot; ('93-'96) Mark VIIIs, but I'm fairly certain this will also apply to &quot;second generation&quot; ('97-'98) models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the oil filter is in one of the most inconvenient places ever conceivable.  Usually, with &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; little trouble, I can get my arm in well enough to unscrew and pull the filter off.  But, when it comes to actually getting the filter out from the confined space that is its home, there always seems to be some form of creative contortionism required and I can never seem to remember how it is I got the thing out the last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any &quot;easy way&quot; to go about doing this?  Is there some trick or special technique I might be missing out on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T21:28:27.630" Title="Removing oil filter from Lincoln Mark VIII" Tags="|lincoln|mark-viii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:51:46.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle folks seem to do this a lot, presumably because the gas tank is easy to remove and small enough to manhandle (personhandle?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google search produces a lot of results for how to do this, and any of the ways you've heard will probably work well. Here's one detailed list: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank&quot;&gt;http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to decide what your expectations are. If you just want to remove a lot of rust and be done, use chain / rocks / screws / ice cubes. If you want a pristine gas tank that will resist rust for a decade or more, you'll want to get ALL the rust out and then coat the inside so it won't rust again. In that case, try POR-15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T04:51:46.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="213" CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:00:18.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can sympathize - ill-located greasy oil filters are a pain to get off. A few tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use the FRAM filters that have the grippy/rubberized surface designed to give your fingers some purchase upon removal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try a combination of oil filter wrenches (the ones designed to go into a 3/8&quot; drive ratchet) and extensions, u-joints, etc if space permits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get one of those rubber non-slip mats designed to line drawers and wrap it around the oil filter one or more times. This will give you a decent bit of grip to power the filter off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you're so inclined, get a remote oil filter relocation kit.  This is an adapter with some oil lines that will let you mount the oil filter some place more convenient.  As an added bonus, a lot of these kits will let you mount a much larger oil filter as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T05:00:18.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:04:50.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factory service manuals are usually expensive and they assume you already know how to fix motorcycles and have a full set of tools and equipment. But they cover every part of the bike and have great drawings. Clymer and Haynes make DIY maintenance manuals for just about everything, including your bike. Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=1233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=1233&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to clean around the reservoir before opening it, and keep the cover on the reservoir when you step away, to keep dirt out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refilling requires proper bleeding of the brakes lines, to remove any air bubbles. Make sure you use the same kind of brake fluid that was in there before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T16:49:00.427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T16:49:00.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="213" CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:44:54.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not had the pleasure of working on this model, and the service software I have doesn't give me a good picture of the situation. However, here are a couple of approaches to problematic oil filters (same applies to other parts as well):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does turning the wheel all the way (or part way) in one direction or the other cause the steering linkage to move out of the way? (I have found evidence that a hard right may work for this specific model).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you access the filter from above? A number of components are surprisingly accessible from the top side of the engine, even if they are pretty far down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does removing the driver side wheel (and associated wheel well trim) provide better access? If so, it's a matter of whether removing the wheel is more trouble than it's worth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please verify if the hard right turn is true for this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T05:44:54.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:55:02.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best source is your local dealer. Depending on how good the parts diagrams are, it can be a pain ordering the correct bolt. If you do it online or over the phone, there's a good chance they'll order the wrong one. Go to the parts counter and look at the picture with the parts specialist. Hopefully, the exact bolt is easy enough to point out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, they'll have to special order it. If the wrong one comes in, you don't have to worry about shipping back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; bad parts diagrams out there, even in official dealerships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:49:47.403" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:49:47.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T07:30:28.783" Score="6" ViewCount="12838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a customer who came in complaining that the clutch pedal had gone 'funny': it wasn't 'coming back up' like it used to. As he was in for service anyway, we replaced the clutch fluid, and it 'seemed ok' afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He came back a few weeks later saying that he was having problems with the clutch being 'random'. In the morning, the clutch doesn't disengage properly when he fully depresses the pedal (he has to be in neutral to start the car), but after a few miles of driving, it works ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He wondered whether it wasn't the difference between the car being 'warmed up or not', so we kept the car overnight to try, but haven't been able to see any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are we missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T22:54:37.613" Title="Troubleshooting 'random' clutch problems" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|focus|clutch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:28:24.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking.  If you pump up the pedal with your foot, it might retain pressure for you to drive for a while, but after it sits, the symptoms will return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time to replace the clutch master cylinder or check for brake line leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T08:28:24.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="385" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:29:43.650" Score="5" ViewCount="12831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older vehicle that has AC, but it needs a recharge.  It uses the older R12 refrigerant and it is very expensive and can be difficult to locate as it is not made in the US anymore.  How do I convert it over to cheaper newer R134a?  Can this be done without replacing the AC compressor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T08:42:27.657" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T16:48:28.417" Title="How do I convert a R12 to R134A for my AC system?" Tags="|r134a|conversion|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2011-03-09T11:50:12.887" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably that the pads need bedding in as NoCarrier says.  However, my sister-in-law once had her brakes start squealing even though there was plenty of pad left, and the problem ended up being a small stone that got stuck between the pad backing plate and the rotor, in front of the edge of the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T11:50:12.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="202" CreationDate="2011-03-09T12:00:00.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you may want to consider is switching to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MegaSquirt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MegaSquirt fuel injection computer&lt;/a&gt;.  It would be the pain of a fuel injection computer replacement, but they seem to be rather adjustable and configurable, if you are willing to go through the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have had a couple of presentations at a local computer club from a guy who converted his 60s era Camaro from carbs to fuel injection using this system, and it seemed to work out really well for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T12:00:00.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8910" CreationDate="2011-03-09T12:54:06.193" Score="4" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 1980s Porsche 924. It starts perfect when cold or warm, but if you leave it for about 15 minutes, starting it can be a real pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into this and found out that there is a diffrent fuel circuit for warm and cold, but this seems to conflict with the fact that the first 15 minutes are not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else had a similar problem or has a solution based on this description?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T16:17:04.500" Title="Car starts fine cold or warm, but has trouble inbetween" Tags="|porsche|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="652" CreationDate="2011-03-09T13:45:05.567" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Acura's alarm system was the most sensitive one I had ever run across. It was installed by the former owner, a professor in Princeton. Now we are in a little town with low crime so when the alarm system died, we danced on it's grave. Now it has returned like a shambling zombie, occasionally beeping and going off randomly (once while driving). That won't do. Is there anyway I can disable the alarm without just clipping the wires? The functions that prevent the car from starting haven't re-surfaced, just the alarm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Well it is a third party alarm, unfortunately I cant find where it connects to the battery. I tried following some wires off the shock sensors but it enters into a rather full wire wrap. I also cant find any way of identifying the make and model of the alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Well, good I guess. It got better. I still cant figure out why but it runs fine now. I won't delete this in case any answers current or future help anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T14:54:53.603" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:45:03.400" Title="Flaky alarm system" Tags="|alarm|security|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2011-03-09T14:03:14.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try applying anti-seize lubricant to the backs of the brake pads. Also consider lubricating other places where the brake pad backing plate could rub against the caliper. Just make sure to keep it off the braking surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the side benefit of preventing the pads from rusting onto the caliper, making future maintenance easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically use this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone already mentioned this in passing, but I thought it worth describing in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T14:03:14.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-03-09T14:11:05.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a vacuum cleaner? Try using the upholstery brush, which will limit the amount of vacuum applied (due to air leaking through the bristles). Don't actually brush the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I agree that you really should find a new filter. Even if you manage to clean it, the paper will eventually disintegrate due to age, and then you'll have to replace it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T14:11:05.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2011-03-09T14:17:33.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the springs are the source of the squeaking? It could be some other moving part of the front suspension, perhaps with a worn bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T14:17:33.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="233" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:00:33.003" Score="8" ViewCount="66046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are fuel system cleaners (like Gumout) worth using regularly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T17:28:04.470" Title="Are fuel system cleaners (like Gumout) worth using regularly?" Tags="|fuel-system|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="298" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:03:18.350" Score="1" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sprayed my rear wiper arm with WD-40 because it wasn't touching the glass.  Now, it wipes great, but when I turn the wiper off, it doesn't return to the cradle correctly.  When this happens, the wiper will not work until I physically push the arm down.  How can I fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T19:15:06.540" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T01:25:22.780" Title="2004 Trailblazer rear wiper not returning correctly" Tags="|chevrolet|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="283" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:50:00.643" Score="4" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look under the hood of a WRX, the intake path is a little convoluted.  Air enters a large channel near the hood latch that funnels diagonally across the front of the engine compartment.  It then drops down into the fenderwell, passes through a bulbous silencer and then returns via the main intake channel heading towards the manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the question: is the silencer in the intake path too restrictive for the turbocharged engine?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll often see sites talking about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/84000-stock-intake-silencer-delete-pics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;silencer delete procedure&lt;/a&gt; which will definitely make more noise.  What's not at all clear is whether removing any of this piping has any effect on total airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm not asking about power, tuning or whether the sound is cool / less so.  The question is whether removing the silencer components will remove a restriction and increase net airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T12:00:40.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:40:53.803" Title="Is the silencer in the intake path too restrictive on the 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX?" Tags="|subaru|wrx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="265" CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:50:41.627" Score="3" ViewCount="17539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told that a wet serpentine belt causes this.  Is that true?  If not, what else could it be?  How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer (4.2L 6-cyl. engine).  I hear the noise every time I start the engine and it usually makes the noise for a little bit while I'm driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T17:34:51.797" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:38:44.890" Title="High-pitched squealing coming from engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:56:28.040" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you've got an extraordinary circumstance or legitimate reason for using it, don't. Chances are the usage will temporary make the symptoms subside, only to return again later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, if your vehicle required it you would find it listed in the recommended maintenance items list in your owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think another side to this question is first you need to answer how old is the vehicle, how many miles on it, have you had it regularly maintained (why do you need the cleaner in the first place)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to my first point, if you desperately need to try it, go for it, otherwise figure out what your issue really is before dumping chemicals into your gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T16:56:28.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:35:01.403" Score="8" ViewCount="83984" Body="&lt;p&gt;When dealing with a car with aluminum head(s), what is the proper way to extract a broken sparkplug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T08:15:00.327" Title="What is the proper way to extract a broken sparkplug?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="247" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:40:25.830" Score="5" ViewCount="36382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to determine the source of coolant consumption?  How should one differentiate between say a leaking radiator, leaking waterpump, leaking hoses, a blown head gasket, or crack in the block/head(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T07:27:45.223" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:36:24.147" Title="How to diagnose excessive coolant consumption?" Tags="|cooling-system|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:48:03.593" Score="13" ViewCount="7460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen numerous cars that for one reason or another, retard timing excessively at wide open throttle - getting worse over time.  Seat of the pants impression is that power drops off steeply as RPMs approach redline.  OBD2 datalogging verifies this by showing timing in the low single digits.  These are performance motors that are designed to live in this powerband and are usually modified to some extent.  What steps would one take to determine the cause of this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T07:00:29.453" Title="How to troubleshoot excessive timing retard?" Tags="|troubleshooting|performance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="238" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:50:50.090" Score="9" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;What information can be gleaned by visual inspection of a set of tires on a car?  How would I interpret excessive wear on the outside edge of the tires vs. wear on the inside vs. wear in the center?  What if tires wear differently on one side or one axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:14:09.953" Title="How to interpret tire condition" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="237" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:53:21.043" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire condition can be interpreted in several ways, visually being the most prominent. Usually excessive tread wear can be seen quite easily using the famous penny test (using an old penny, one where Lincoln's head doesn't overlap the outside edge of the coin). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire&quot;&gt;From Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If part of Lincoln's head is covered by the tread, the tire has a legal amount of tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wheels are out of alignment due to camber, the depth of the tread will vary across the width of the tire. If you're out of alignment due to toeing, wear will be even across the tire and will be harder to detect. If your camber is off (angle of the tire relative to the road), it might be due to weak springs and shocks, depending on the type of suspension you have. This is where you might see a difference in wear depending on whether you're looking at the front or rear axle. If you push down on one end of your vehicle and it doesn't spring back up and stay (it bounces up and down for a couple seconds), it's probably time for new springs and/or shock absorbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If tread wear seems to be occurring in the middle of the tire, chances are your tires are overinflated. Too much air pressure will cause the tire to expand into more of a bicycle tire shape and cause it to wear faster in the middle. On the contrary, tire wear on the outer edges is due to tires being under-inflated, causing the center to retreat further towards the center of the wheel and the edges having more contact with the road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire wear can sometimes be gauged by sound or feel. Sometimes your car will vibrate slightly and the tires will emit an undulating sound due to cupping of the tire. If you've ever slammed on your brakes and skidded you might get a similar effect due to a flat-spot on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general guidelines would bee to rotate your tires every other oil change. If your vehicle is pulling to one direction have an alignment done. Don't drive winter tires in the summer. Conduct the penny test when you rotate your tires, and keep in mind the estimated life of the tires (whether they are 50,000 or 100,000 mile tires, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above, any obvious signs of wear should be addressed immediately: If on any area of the tire there is exposed steel or nylon wire, you've worn them down dangerously far and they should be replaced. Punctures can usually be mended depending on their size and location. If your valve stems are cracked or aging they should be replaced to avoid an inconveniently flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tire shops will do inspections on the cheap, so never hesitate to have them checked out if you're not sure about the condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T21:14:09.953" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:14:09.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="234" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:11:08.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple ways to go about this, depending on the exact situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ceramic stem is broken, and you can still fit a deep socket on it, go with that.&#xA;If the nut itself is stripped so much that you can't get a socket or an open-end wrench on it, or if the nut is broken, you should try using pliers to remove the spark plug.  You could also try something like a deep socket Craftsman Bolt-Out bolt remover if it is stripped.&#xA;Another option would be to drill a hole in from the top, going straight down, and using a screw extractor to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures to help:&#xA;Craftsman Bolt Out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcThMaHtgI6uB9lsilqBUQ2yEXusApAojjMToukHR0kWi6lY3dPo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw extractor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQV0wfxmjgPTnP3woZkxrZYRkyKbjTLpKfJT2fKJY_KvKXwMC-gQw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:40.987" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T19:11:08.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:14:18.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way would be to have the vehicle running, and look for where the leak would be coming from. You may want to top off the coolant first for best results.  However, if it's a slower leak, this technique may not work as well. But, you should still be able to get some indication of where the problem is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:36:24.147" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:36:24.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:26:19.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: the below assumes that you aren't talking about ECU-controlled cars that explicitly pull timing intentionally at high revs.  In the spirit of checking the easy answers, you should check the map in the ECU.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for measurable factors, there are two critical items that might trigger detonation and, therefore, convince the engine to pull timing: temperature and air-fuel ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature is measurable and, unsurprisingly, the best place to measure intake temps is near the intake manifold.  Higher intake temps will cause the fuel mixture to ignite too soon.  If temps are too high, seek ways to keep heat out of the intake air.  Intake designs, wraps or routing are all possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air-fuel ratio is less easy to measure but still straightforward.  An air-fuel meter can be connected to a probe inserted in the exhaust pipe, into the a bung in the exhaust path, etc.  If the mixture is too lean (more air, less fuel), the mixture is more likely to detonate early, in part because more fuel keeps the mixture a bit cooler.  If the mixture is too lean, it might be an easy fix (maybe the injectors are too small) or more of a pain (you need to retune the air-fuel map).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both of those are okay, you could be looking at a much harder problem to deal with.  Examples include pistons that are too high compression or hot spots in the combustion chamber.  Those are less likely, thankfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T19:26:19.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="69" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:42:13.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use additives to plug a leak unless it's an emergency.  That stuff migrates all through your cooling system gunking up everything it can in the process - including radiator tubes with a partial flow restriction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are fortunate enough to possess a brass radiator - take it to a rad shop to have the leak soldered.  At the same time, get it boiled/rodded out since you've already taken the time to remove it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if it's a modern radiator w/ plastic end tanks and aluminum core, your best bet is just to buy a new replacement.  Most of those style radiators are relatively inexpensive in the aftermarket, I replaced one in my 93 Honda Accord about 6 years ago and I think it was 80 dollars at the time.  I think the old aluminum might have some salvage value at the scrap yard...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it this way - is saving 200 bucks on a radiator repair really worth the cost of an overheating related blown headgasket or worse?  Previous owner of my motorhome overheated the rig so bad once it cracked the heads in addition to melting down the transmission.  So yeah, going cheap on the cooling system can have painfully consequential effects down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T21:42:13.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="294" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:57:23.510" Score="4" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking at the decision to buy vs build a 383 Chevy for my motorhome.  I've built motors before but they were all import engines where the most machining done was a small overbore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll most likely start with either the original short block from the RV or a Vortec bottom end - 4 bolt main with a roller cam, regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that being said what are the things you need to watch out for when building a stroker small block Chevy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T04:00:07.030" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T04:00:07.030" Title="Things to consider when building a stroker small block Chevrolet" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|rebuild|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="877" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:09:46.510" Score="12" ViewCount="3140" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;A HREF=&quot;http://www.americanidlemotorcycles.com/Metric_Cruisers/403.html&quot;&gt;&lt;IMG SRC=&quot;http://www.americanidlemotorcycles.com/Metric_Cruisers/403%202000%20Kawasaki%20KZ1000P%201.JPG&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 4-cylinder engine, and the carbs are really wedged in there. The best way I know is to loosen the boots on both sides, pull the carbs back, and try to slip them out sideways, but what a pain! Those boots are stiff enough that getting the carbs out is really hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:24:01.010" Title="How do you get the carburetors out of a 1983 Kawasaki KZ1000 P?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:18:27.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factory turbocharged cars typically run very little timing on the top end (high RPM/high load) - so what you're seeing via logger may most likely be correct.  Additionally to further confound the issue the factory also tunes A/F to a very conservatively rich value @ WOT.  Those two factors alone will make a car feel &quot;soft&quot; at higher RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's part of the reason why a talented tuner can effect so much change on some cars by merely applying tweaks to the fuel and ignition timing tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some loggers give you the ability to log the amount of timing retard due to sensed knock (the knock sensor is picking up &quot;something&quot; real detonation or not) - that should be the first place you look to determine why you have low timing.  Also many cheap OBD2 loggers have poor refresh rates so the timing you &quot;see&quot; may not be the correct value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T22:18:27.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:32:56.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my old bike, I had to pull the fuel tank off to get the carbs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything, it will make the job much easier in terms of access for your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:24:01.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:24:01.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:48:03.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing is to initially determine if you're burning it or leaking it.  Assuming your car isn't spewing a plume of white smoke when you're driving - you will have to do some additional diagnosis to determine the method of consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First check the oil and coolant - if either contain a milky substance you have a cracked something or a blown HG. Possibly a failed oil cooler (if it's of the water cooled variety). Only a leakdown test can determine anything further beyond a teardown. I have heard of some cars having poor intake manifold sealing which can cause coolant to be sucked into the intake tract and burned without the telltale white smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fluids look okay, have the system pressure tested. Basically it's like hooking up a bicycle pump to your radiator to pressurize the system while cold.  If the leak isn't obvious you can use a UV dye to pinpoint weepage or very minute leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:35:52.320" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:35:52.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2011-03-09T23:01:46.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also if the converter is actually degraded, the downstream o2 sensor output will start to look more like the upstream one - it will switch from high to low voltage on a regular basis instead of staying more steady at a constant voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T23:01:46.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="250" CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:42:43.930" Score="17" ViewCount="42065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SUV with factory 16&quot; steel wheels and P235/70R16 tires. The tires have just under 30,000 miles of gentle driving on them. Two of the tires have been leaking quite a bit (about 10 psi per week). I brought the vehicle to two different reputable independent mechanics, and they took the tires off, and couldn't find a problem. They applied bead sealant (which I know is controversial). Both also replaced the valve stems as a guess after they couldn't find leaks in the tires anywhere. I also checked for leaks myself with soapy water in a spray bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the professionals couldn't find leaks anywhere, what should I do next? Should I bring it to additional shops until someone can find the problem? Are the mechanics looking in the wrong place? Could the wheels be the issue? They seem to be in decent shape from what I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="151" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:23:00.687" Title="How to fix leaky tires after 2 shops couldn't" Tags="|leak|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:48:20.897" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife had a similar problem on her car and it turned out the problem was the wheel, not the tire.  We'd had enough sand and salt on the road this winter that she had corrosion / gunk building up right at the bead.  The tire shop dismounted the tires, cleaned up the seating area on the wheel and then remounted the tire.  The problem now seems to be solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T01:48:20.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2011-03-10T03:53:41.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need some sort of a tank where you can submerge the entire wheel/tire - a small pool will do, although if you're in the northern hemisphere that might be a bit of a challenge this time of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the whole wheel underwater, and see if you can spot any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some shops that have a tank they can put part of the wheel/tire into, but I don't think they usually cover the wheel.  This is one case where you may have to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T03:53:41.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2011-03-10T05:41:21.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely try isolating the wheel.  I spent quite a long time with a previous car trying tires and valve stems and mounting issues.  Eventually I replaced the tires and still had the same problem on the same wheel, and replaced the wheel, and it was fine after that.  In my case it would take 2 to 3 weeks to get low, so it was a fairly small leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tire shop &lt;strong&gt;did&lt;/strong&gt; say at one point at that it &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; be cracked, but they couldn't tell for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I got the spare wheels on ebay fairly affordably, despite being crazy chromed ones.  2 of the 4 I got were bad as well, but among the 8 they were able to come up with 4 good ones.  :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T05:41:21.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:45:02.687" Score="4" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Ford Escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently had some work with the transmission done, but in the past 2 weeks or so, whenever I brake while in reverse, it makes a loud grinding sound. However, I've looked through the whole brake system, and I can't find any issues or relations to the transmission that would make it occur only in reverse. Is there anything I should look into with testing, because I really don't want to have to deal with the transmission again unless I'm certain that it's the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T22:07:12.180" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:20:15.053" Title="Ford Escape - Loud Brake Sounds in Reverse" Tags="|ford|brakes|cd2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="225" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:21:49.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a third-party alarm, you can probably just disconnect it from the battery. There should be a thinner red wire running from either the positive battery terminal or a positive auxiliary connection possibly near the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the alarm also came with remote-start, we'll have to discuss a different solution. Depending on the system you might need it un-wired completely if you need to go back to using the factory FOB for locking/unlocking doors (if you had one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T21:21:49.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="202" CreationDate="2011-03-10T22:38:05.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick answer is - Yes, you will need a tune after installing larger injectors in your stroked 454.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering a big block swap into my RV so I've done a bit of research about tuning solutions.  I was primarily focused on swapping in the L21, so I can't speak 100% to the differences between the Mark IV and Gen VI motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I do know... the L29 is kind of an orphan in regards to ECU tuning products, but they're out there and there are businesses on the web offering mail-in/custom tunes and the like for that platform.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upside - L29 is a true MPI setup so you can upgrade injectors easily.  I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you can swap in the injectors from the L18 (Vortec 8100) which just happens to be 496 CI so I think that should work quite well assuming the injectors fit and impedance matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside - EFILive is the only product I'm aware of that may work for tuning without any other tweaking (swapping to other PCM or whatever), and it's not an inexpensive product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and lastly - don't waste your time (not to mention violating Federal law) circumventing engine management by downgrading your truck to a carburetor.  I guarantee doing that will create 10x the issues you would be solving by removing the fuel injection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a sweet project though, would love to discuss Chebby motor stuff more on here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T22:38:05.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2339" CreationDate="2011-03-10T23:29:31.923" Score="2" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Subaru Impreza WRX wagon with 110K miles on and, naturally, it has developed a few rattles.  One that's particularly annoying is coming from the dash near the windshield to the left of the wheel (very near the VIN tag).  This is a &quot;sometimes&quot; rattle, making it hard to track down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the likely cause of this rattle and how do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T19:50:27.583" Title="What is the rattle near my VIN tag and how do I fix it?" Tags="|subaru|wrx|rattle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-11T03:08:34.973" Score="3" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for an alternative to the OEM muffler for a Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other Volvo vehicles that use the same drivetrain, but not one of the national muffler shops lists an after market muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else that will fit with a minimal amount of modification?  The OEM muffler is almost $800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T06:05:03.497" Title="Are there any alternatives to the OEM muffler for a Volvo XC90?" Tags="|exhaust|volvo|muffler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2011-03-11T05:10:49.330" Score="23" ViewCount="17185" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the main differences between synthetic and dino oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one always better than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T23:31:09.477" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T21:36:05.207" Title="What differences between synthetic and dino oil?" Tags="|oil|lubrication|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="257" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:05:03.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the model specific nature of an exhaust system is not the muffler itself but the piping and how it attaches to the underneath of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to be sized and bent properly to work its way through from the front to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just wanting to replace the muffler and tip, you should be able to purchase those parts individually and get a shop to cut off the old and weld on the new for not that bad of a price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wanting to do a full &quot;cat back&quot; (everything from the cat to the tip) then a custom one will cost more as the pipes will have to be custom fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downfall to this is you won't know what kind of performance effect it will have on the car as a single muffler will act differently on different model vehicles compared to their OEMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T06:05:03.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:11:38.873" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full synthetic oil, as the name states, is &quot;synthesized&quot;.  By that, they mean it is made in a lab, it is a manufactured product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Organic (Dino) oil is a product of nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the big difference is the environment in which the oil is made in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main selling point on synthetic over organic is because it is manufactured, it is made in a controlled environment.  That means far less impurities and a more consistent product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Organic oil will be influenced by what it was made from, what was in the ground where it was extracted from, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to think about it is synthetic is an additive process.  They start with nothing and add in the components they want until they get the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Organic oil is a reductive process, they start with an unrefined product and filter out all the stuff they don't want until they have what they want left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T06:11:38.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:24:08.003" Score="4" ViewCount="1739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 BMW 325i and I wanted to know where I could find good technical documentation on it. I presume there is a maintenance manual or a Climber guide. Being that this is the age of the internet are there any resources on online that you trust to be maintenance worthy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:25:09.767" Title="Good resources for BMW repair, diagrams? Besides Mechanics.stackexchange.com" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:28:42.600" Score="9" ViewCount="17354" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know about the 4 rubber pads on the sides of the car. They make really stable points for my jack stands. Problem is getting my jack stands under the pads if I'm using them to prop up the car. The other issue is that my 2 ton jack only has enough clearance to prop the jack stands under it. I have used a friends 4 ton jack before and was able to do 2 at a time on the front but I was still at a loss for where to place the jack toward the back of the car. Diagrams and pictures a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:26:17.933" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T13:36:25.780" Title="Jack points for a 2003 BMW 325i" Tags="|bmw|jack|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="276" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:31:54.160" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cloudy light housings from lots of miles on my car (2003 325i with glass housings). Has anyone who has ever had to replace any lighting housing, front or rear, knows how much they cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the best place to find these kind of parts online and cheaply? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:28:01.583" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:28:52.110" Title="Where can I get cheap light housings?" Tags="|lights|parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="256" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:36:55.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vin tag can get loose sometimes. It should be up by your windshield on the left side. They are intentionally not made easy to access. Which begs to question why they would also frequently become loose on old cars but I digress. Because of how hard it is to access I would suggest using some clear RTV on each end to stop it from rattling. The added bonus is that is clear so it should not obscure the numbers if you get it in the wrong spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T06:36:55.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:49:08.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases this is the Serpentine belt. As the belts get old they will relax a little and the loose belt will squeal when the car idles at first then all the time as the belt continues to age. Water will cause the belt to make noise as well. Your options are to buy a new belt and put it on the car, or to tighten the belt a little so it squeaks a little less. There is a wheel that the belt twists around that you can adjust when replacing an old belt or when tuning the older belt. Honestly if you have the time and the Manual/Confidence to replace the belt, I would go that route. Belts are not that expensive, and depending on the condition of the old belt. it may be the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:38:44.890" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:38:44.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2011-03-11T09:39:41.290" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil#Performance&quot;&gt;Wikipedia has a great page on Synthetic Oils, specifically their performance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better high and low temperature performance.  They act more like a thinner oil at lower temperatures and like a thicker oil at higher temperatures, without the disadvantages of multiviscosity oils like 10W40.  Especially useful when initially starting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced problems with sludge, breaking-down, particularly in very high temperatures like in the turbo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better lubrication properties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extended change intervals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too slippery for properly seating parts during initial break-in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a case of one being unconditionally better than the other, for automobile applications.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotary engines such as in the Mazda RX series of vehicles should not run synthetic oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some vehicles come from the factory with synthetic oils, recommend using traditional &quot;dino oil&quot; for the initial break-in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is debate about whether using synthetic oil in a car that has run regular oil for a long time is a good thing.  The theory is that synthetic oils can clean out sludge and varnish that has built up.  This sludge can dry up seals, and then when cleaned out leaks can develop in an engine that otherwise would have been tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While synthetic oils are better in many regards, it may be that the average automotive applications aren't demanding enough to take advantage of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T09:39:41.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-03-11T09:49:41.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ebay&lt;/a&gt; can be a great source for parts inexpensively.  Of course, it can also be a source of questionable products and sellers, so if you are unfamiliar with it, you mean want to learn how the feedback system works and how to avoid common scams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I've had very good luck over the years, with only a few &quot;clinkers&quot;.  I have been able to get a set of 4 OEM rims for an old car for $100, where the dealer wanted $500 each.  Of the 4, 2 were usable.  On the other hand, I only really needed one.  I've also found a variety of other parts at good prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T09:49:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2011-03-11T10:03:07.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alldatadiy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The AllDataDIY&lt;/a&gt; site is generally considered to be an authoritative source for both manuals and additional repair information such as recalls and service bulletins, part numbers, and repair time estimates.  AllData is used by many repair shops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does require a subscription.  It looks like the minimum price-point is now $26 for a year of access for one vehicle.  They used to have a short-term option, I believe it was $5 for 3 days, but even at $26 I'd say it's easily worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, now that I've written this, it looks like they don't have information on BMW (though they do have Audi, VW, Mercedes, Porsche, and many others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T10:03:07.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="278" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:28:41.597" Score="4" ViewCount="6788" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1998 Trans Am has about 80,000 miles on it and has been sitting for about a year without being started in my garage. I live in NJ so it does get pretty cold during the winter but we haven't had any prolonged deep freezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What precautions should I take when starting it for the first time this spring? Aside from possible leaks, should I be worried about the internal lubrication of the engine? For what it's worth I've always used synthetic oil with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T19:53:04.930" Title="Starting a car that has been sitting for about a year" Tags="|freezing|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-03-12T04:26:52.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="289" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:38:18.937" Score="3" ViewCount="2327" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rock from the road scraped my car's hood a while ago.  I have not gotten around to fixing it until now.  The paint was completely scraped away down to the bare metal.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwVw3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hood Scrape&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to take a Dremel and sand away the rust and apply some primer and then top coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to remove the small amount of rust that has come up and protect the metal/paint going forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T04:52:50.890" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T04:52:50.890" Title="How to protect metal from scrape through the paint?" Tags="|rust|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:06:41.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem: the slave cylinder.  I had an older Triumph that needed both ends fixed to finally fix the clutch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals.  Having the slave re-sleeved (and new seals!) was also necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T19:55:41.157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T19:55:41.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="270" CreationDate="2011-03-11T19:13:02.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely want to clean out the rust if its not terribly invasive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local art supply store and get the finest paintbrush you can find &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If getting it protected is &quot;good enough&quot;, fill it in with primer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to restore it cosmetically, then fill it in with touch up paint, matched from the dealer.  Then have your local auto detailer blend that portion back with the original paint. It should look pretty good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T19:13:02.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="292" CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:36:52.390" Score="6" ViewCount="6026" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I engage reverse on the manual transmission of my 2003 Nissan Frontier pickup truck, the reverse lights tend to sporadically turn on and off.  I'm trying to figure out what path to take to determine where the fault lies without hopefully having to trace and inspect the wire from the cab to rear of the vehicle looking for points where it is grounding out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T23:30:04.773" Title="Possible short in reverse lights on 2003 Nissan Frontier Pickup Truck" Tags="|electrical|nissan|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-03-12T00:21:50.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check places like Rock Auto - they have the front lights for my car, for example, for about $130 each - much better than the $400 the dealer wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T00:21:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="282" CreationDate="2011-03-12T00:36:10.700" Score="8" ViewCount="67960" Body="&lt;p&gt;My e46 M3 would not start when I got to the parking garage after work. When I first turned the key, I heard a sound like grinding gears, but I was so startled that I immediately stopped trying to crank the engine. The interior lights and radio flashed for a fraction of a second when this happened, and the clock on the dash reset itself. A couple of seconds later I tried cranking again, but all I got was the sound of the starter relay clicking away. The engine did not turn over, nor did I hear any grinding noises. Is it the starter, or something else? How would I check this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also mention that I was able to push-start the car and get it running, since it has a manual transmission.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T05:58:12.793" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T19:58:24.110" Title="How to diagnose a starter motor that does not work" Tags="|battery|starter|alternator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2011-03-12T00:55:00.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option would be to polish the current light housings. You can get a kit at Wal-Mart or at any auto parts store that will allow you to turn foggy (but in otherwise good condition) headlights into much, much clearer lenses. The kits cost $15 to $20, and basically require you to use your drill, some paste, and possibly some water to wet sand the plastic lenses. You'll probably have to polish them twice with a coarse and fine grit paste, but two lenses shouldn't take more that 15 minutes. Quick, easy, and cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:28:52.110" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:28:52.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2011-03-12T01:25:55.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The e46 has a central jack point in the middle/front of the car, between the front wheels (red circle). Just make sure you use a block of wood between the jack and jack pad to help distribute the force a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AU5Fq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-12T01:37:14.423" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T01:37:14.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="269" CreationDate="2011-03-12T01:56:43.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charge the battery. It will be totally dead, unless you have it on a trickle charger. You may need to buy a new one if the current one doesn't hold a charge well, but this will at least allow you to start the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the battery is charging, check all fluids. Coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and even the windshield washer fluid (while you're under the hood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the oil unless it has hardly any miles on it. I would change the oil filter in any case since the paper elements can clog with dis-use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your car had a distributor, I would recommend buying an oil pump primer shaft so that you can remove the distributor and run the oil pump for a minute to circulate oil through the engine. In your case, however, there is little you can do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the battery is charged, remove the charger and start the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch the oil pressure (if you can) and the engine temperature so that they don't spike  or dip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate the tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all looks good, drive around the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I let my car sit for a year the fuel filter was clogged with old gas junk. Replacing it fixed that issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-12T03:04:32.133" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T03:04:32.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="275" CreationDate="2011-03-12T03:05:47.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the Beemers, but many starter motors have an (dis)engagable &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overrunning_clutch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear /clutch&lt;/a&gt; that will connect the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;starter motor&lt;/a&gt; to the fly wheel.  Once the engine starts, the gear disengages.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description, it sounds like that gear was munged somehow.  Also, you may have dislodged it by push-starting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T03:05:47.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2011-03-12T03:17:59.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best BMW e46 manual that you will likely be able to purchase is the Bentley e46 technical guide. It's big, heavy, and expensive ($75 to $100) but it's well worth it. While you might be able to find information online about a particular repair procedure, but this manual covers everything in detail, with lots of diagrams and pictures. It's so much better than a Clymer or Haynes manual that I would not even consider those as alternative reference books. Maybe the factory BMW manual is better, but I have never actually seen one in person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T03:17:59.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2011-03-12T03:25:35.840" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gas wasn't treated, then it will be broken down. That means a gummy varnish substance everywhere, but most critically in the carburetor/fuel injector. That may stop the engine from starting, or at least make it run poorly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the engine to start, you can use a product like Sea Foam (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seafoamsales.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.seafoamsales.com/&lt;/a&gt;). Their instructions have you pour it in 3 different places, but a shortcut is just to pour the whole thing in the gas tank. The 3-places-method probably works better, but it depends on how serious you are, and whether you plan to overhaul something soon. Regular gas preservative can also help, but my sense is that Sea Foam is a little better for cleaning up a mess, while gas preservative is better for preventing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gas is really bad, you'll have to get rid of it. I've never seen a great way to get rid of old, stale gas. Here are some not-great ways I've seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mix it with good gas and run it through another engine, say a lawnmower. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour it on weeds in the driveway. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour it in a bucket and light it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour it on a brush pile you want to burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas is explosive, pollutes groundwater, evaporates to pollute the air, and soaks through your skin. So, hard stuff to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:50:43.083" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:50:43.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="275" CreationDate="2011-03-12T03:49:55.243" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your battery was dead.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cars, when the battery can't provide enough cranking amps, you will hear a clicking instead of the normal starting sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter battery draws a lot of current. When that happens, the voltage available to the rest of the system drops dramatically, especially if the battery is weak. That's why your clock reset itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hook up a smart charger. A cheap one is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://batterytender.com/automotive/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battery Tender Jr&lt;/a&gt;. Avoid a dumb charger, which will gladly push 13.8V at 2A in to your battery until all the electrolyte has boiled away. A good charger will have bulk, absorption, and float stages. A really good one will have a desulfate stage, which can help revive an older battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to figure out whether the problem is in your charging system or in the battery. A mechanic or a battery shop will have a testing tool that will measure the &lt;strong&gt;CCA&lt;/strong&gt; of your battery. To get the best possible test, charge the battery to full, then &lt;strong&gt;let it rest&lt;/strong&gt; disconnected for 24 hours. If the number is very low, your battery can't do the job. Letting a desulfating charger work for a long time may make a difference, but if this is your daily driver and you don't have a spare battery, you probably should just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to replace your battery, check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/113/26&quot;&gt;How do I apply dielectric grease to my battery?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery checks out, then the problem is in your charging system. Perhaps there's a loose connection, or perhaps your alternator is bad. See your service manual for instructions on troubleshooting the charging system. You'll definitely want a good &lt;strong&gt;multimeter&lt;/strong&gt; at this point, with 3 1/2 digits of precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that batteries have lead, produce hydrogen, and can get acid on things. Nitrile gloves, goggles or face mask, clothes you want holes in, and wash up well afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T21:20:03.630" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="231" CreationDate="2011-03-12T10:15:59.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer that all the forums seem to agree on, and that my garage also approves is that you will get better airflow to the manifold, however unless you also adjust your ECU, and potentially replace your Mass Airflow Sensor (depending on exactly what you are changing in the airflow path) then you may have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the full Prodrive Performance Pack added to one of my Imprezas, and derestricting the inlet was only required for one of the performance boosts for the turbo. Without the PPP, this derestriction would not have given me any significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have had various modified Subarus over the years, so I chat to my local garage a lot :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:40:53.803" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:40:53.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="224" CreationDate="2011-03-12T19:23:16.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar-sounding problem on a VW New Beetle.  The car would start from cold fine, but after 15 minutes of running, it would be very difficult to re-start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be a defective coolant temperature sensor. Replacing the sensor fixed the issue immediately.  The computer was showing a code of P1296, which indicates a coolant-system defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T19:23:16.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="287" CreationDate="2011-03-12T21:10:12.450" Score="5" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a car that was getting quite old, and the paint on the top of the car is peeling away rapidly. Is this just for cosmetics, or should I seek to re-paint the vehicle to protect it for the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-03-12T23:38:12.463" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T00:24:14.500" Title="What effects can paint peeling away have?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="285" CreationDate="2011-03-12T22:16:39.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint does more than look nice; it also protects the underlying metal (or other material) from the elements. If there is still some paint under the peeled-away layers, then the matter is only cosmetic for now. If and when the primer is exposed — or worse, bare metal — then the car will begin to rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T22:16:39.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="285" CreationDate="2011-03-13T00:24:14.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've exposed bare metal, then your vehicle could start to accumulate rust, which can, over time, destroy your vehicle and be costly to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automotive Touch Up Video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates how you can take care of small dings in the paint yourself.  The video is 11 minutes long and uses inexpensive tools to repair the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If rust has started to form, I've had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/96/how-to-deal-with-rust/123#123&quot;&gt;Napa's Rust Permatex Treatment&lt;/a&gt;.  It turns rust into a gray primer, which might look a little ugly but not as much as a rusted-out car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T00:24:14.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="275" CreationDate="2011-03-13T02:15:42.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've tested the battery and determined that the battery is good, and if a jump start doesn't solve the problem, you could remove the starter motor and take it to an auto-parts store or a mechanic.  They can test the starter motor independent of the other systems in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the motor is out, you can also inspect it for damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most cars where I've removed the starter motor, there are typically 2 bolts holding it to the transmission housing and two wires connected to the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T02:15:42.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="270" CreationDate="2011-03-13T03:10:48.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automotive Touch Up Video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates how you can take care of scratches in your paint.  In addition, I've had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/96/how-to-deal-with-rust/123#123&quot;&gt;Napa's Rust Permatex Treatment&lt;/a&gt;.  It turns rust into a gray primer, which might look a little ugly but not as much as a rusted-out car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use the Napa Rust Treatment to get rid of the rust and then try the techniques in the video to apply paint to your hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T03:10:48.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="275" CreationDate="2011-03-13T10:05:12.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you believe it's not the battery, it could be your starter motor solenoid. I've had a solenoid go on a couple of cars I've owned, it seems to be quite a common thing. The solenoid is what you hear clicking when it can't get enough current to turn the motor over, but it could also be on it's way out and getting stuck perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when a starter motor goes it's either brushes or your solenoid. Go get it tested, a lot of places will do that for you for free if you ask nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T10:05:12.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2011-03-13T10:07:04.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about dielectric grease, but I know you can use Vaseline like they did back in the old days. It works just as well, stopping moisture being able to form on your battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:04:10.790" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:04:10.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="273" CreationDate="2011-03-13T19:12:40.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only a few parts in play here. The reverse light switch in/on the transmission, the wiring to the rear of the vehicle, the tail lamp assembly, and the lightbulb itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check the bulb first. If the filament is broken in just the right way, it can cause the flashing symptoms that you're experiencing. The part number for the bulb is 3156 (single filament). If that's ok, see if you can get access to the reverse / backup switch in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzl6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wv9I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With it still in the car, test it with a multimeter to see if it reliably turns on and off (if you can access it). Alternately, you can unscrew it from the tranny to test it, but I imagine it will be difficult to get at. You may have to remove the shifter boot to access the switch, or you can try to get at it from below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does adding extra pressure to the gear knob (holding it in place) help when backing up? If so, that points to the switch being at fault (or to an alignment issue between the gear lever and the switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T19:23:27.147" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T19:23:27.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2011-03-13T19:37:45.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please note that WD40 is not a lubricant. It's a desiccant. You might have better luck using lithium grease on the parts that you can get at. Penetrating oil (BP Blaster) will help on the bushings you can't easily access. You might have to unbolt the suspension components to get at the bushings and spring seats in order to hose them down with lube (if the problem persists).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T19:37:45.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="243" CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:02:04.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number one red flag that comes to mind whenever people talk about building a stroker engine is the clearancing of various parts that will almost certainly be required to make the stroker crank work properly. When the larger stroker crankshaft rotates, it can hit the block of the engine, or it can hit the piston skirts, which would obviously cause an engine failure of the most catastrophic proportions. You'll have to have all the machine work done, first, then assemble the bearings, crankshaft, pistons, rings, and rods (with lots of assembly lube). I like to do one piston at a time, marking the block with a magic marker where I'll have to go back later to grind away that area. Take pictures. When you're done, you'll want 1/8&quot; clearance between the crank and the block and between the crank and the pistons. It's time consuming and tedious, but it's absolutely necessary.  Double check everything when the rotating assembly is finally assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearancing issues aside, adding the extra displacement fundamentally changes how the engine operates, which has the potential to impact every other part of the engine internals (cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods, heads, fuel delivery, etc). It really does make a lot of sense to follow in the foot steps of someone else who has done exactly what you're proposing (with the same type of block, heads, intake, and fuel delivery method). If they had success, it might make sense to copy what they did. Designing an engine isn't rocket science, but getting even one piece of the puzzle wrong (like choosing the wrong valve spring rates, or wrong pushrod lengths) can cause an engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T20:02:04.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:22:06.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the fuses are concerned, it's never a bad idea to add a fuse to a particular section of a circuit that you're concerned about. For the high-beam fuses, in particular, I would start conservatively. Your average high beam (for a normal headlight) is 55 or 65 watts. In a 12 V circuit, that's less than 6 amps nominally. If you put in a 10 amp fuse, you should be ok. I have looked at some amperage vs wire diameter charts and 20 amps seems a bit too close to the 24 amp maximum for my comfort levels. To reiterate, it's never an issue to start conservatively on these things, and I think 10 amps will suit you just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wire Gauge vs amperage diagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T04:20:54.273" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T04:20:54.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="224" CreationDate="2011-03-13T23:38:14.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue might take some step-by-step diagnosis to find the source of the issue. Since it sounds like a repeatable issue, it should be able to come up with an educated root cause (instead of just throwing parts at the issue).  I think Peter's suggestion is a good place to start (finding any fault codes in the ECU). After that, I would suggest testing the fuel pressure when the engine is cold, hot, and in between and checking it against the specifications. Then, get the engine warmed up with the fuel pressure gauge attached, then shut off the engine and see what happens. If it drops fast (within a minute) then the fuel injectors might be leaking. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge at most auto parts stores. Fuel injectors can be cleaned professionally (for around $20 each), but new ones are only around $40-$50 each, new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a non-functioning check valve in the fuel pump, which is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel lines. You can try to pressurize the system (by turning the key to the 'run' position) before trying to start the car. Do this a few times before cranking, just to be sure. If the problem goes away, suspect the check valve.  I suspect leaking fuel injectors, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T23:38:14.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2011-03-13T23:58:20.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have more than one belt in your car, you might need to determine which of the belts is squeaking. The quick and easy way to pinpoint the right belt is to pour a class of water on the belt with the engine idling. You'll probably have to be fairly accurate, since the belts are often close together. The sound should go away for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know which one is at fault, see if there is any way to manually tighten it, or if it has an automatic (non-adjustable) tensioner. Of course, if the belt is old, cracked, or frayed you really need to replace it.  Tighten the manual tensioner a few turns (if so equiped) to see if that fixes the issue, but don't overtighten it. When pressing on the longest length of belt (between pulleys) it should move only 1/2 to 1 inch, but I need more info about your car to be more specfic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the belt tensioner is broken and causing the problem, not the belt. If you put a new belt on, and it still squeaks (with the auto tensioner), I would suspect that the tensioner is bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'fix in a bottle' solutions are only a band aid, and won't last for long, except your wallet will be $5 lighter. Sorry...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T23:58:20.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2011-03-14T00:29:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some information that indicates that a dirty ground connection on the motor could be causing the issue. That, or the control board is shot. You might want to clean off the ground connections with some fine sand paper (400 grit) to see if that fixes the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cardone.com/english/club/Products/MOTORS/Protech/Tech_Bulletins/PT%2040-0001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WIPER MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also found threads that suggest using lithium grease to lubricate the moving parts of the motor assembly (WD40 is a desiccant, not a lubricant).  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T01:25:22.780" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T01:25:22.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="207" CreationDate="2011-03-14T01:48:31.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no harm in installing a new distributor and/or new coil. If you want to make sure the ground connection is good, connect a multimeter to the negative terminal on the battery and to the ground terminal on the distributor. It should show very close to 0 ohms (continuity). Wiggle the wires to make sure the connection is solid and inspect the wires for rust, cracks, or corrosion. If they look corroded, replace them. You might also want to check for solid 12V at the distributor, just to be safe. Connect the negative lead of the multimeter to the negative terminal on the battery and the positive lead to the 12V wire for the distributor. Wiggle the wires again. The voltage should stay solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can you please elaborate as to why you think the ignition system is at fault? There really isn't much information to go on, aside from the fact the Thunderbird stalls after a few minutes. This could be cause by a number of things. Did you check to see if there was spark when the car stalled? More info is always appreciated. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T01:48:31.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2011-03-14T02:11:18.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Claptrap is on the money with grease points, but many modern cars don't have them, and I can't speak to how the Wrangler is setup. That is the perfect starting point, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to spray down all the rubber mounting points (suspension bushings, shock mounts, etc) with white lithium grease to see if that quiets it down at all. I fear that a normal spray bottle won't be able to get into the 'inside' surfaces of the rubber parts that are causing the squeaks. That leaves you with the final option of unbolting the problem elements so that you can rub some grease on the rubber surfaces. The downside with this solution is that suspension can be very dangerous if you loosen the wrong bolt. In fact, it can be &lt;em&gt;deadly&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would recommend trying the grease points, and the white lithium grease options before proceeding any further. Hopefully, that fixes the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T02:11:18.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2011-03-14T03:34:50.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;20 amps is more than enough for each circuit - you can probably run a 10 or 15amp fuse without issues.  You're not going to cook the wiring with 20 amps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you should definitely fuse your control wiring as well (Contact 85) - That would only require a 3 amp fuse at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T03:34:50.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="332" CreationDate="2011-03-14T04:39:24.117" Score="7" ViewCount="17413" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '98 Protege makes a high pitched whine for the first couple hundred yards when both the engine and outside temperature are cold (below freezing). It doesn't sound like a squealing belt. The sounds is an annoyingly high pitched metallic whine that increases in frequency (and volume) as the engine revs. I think it's one of pulleys (or bearings) on one of the accessories, water pump, or the A/C compressor, but I can't figure out which one when looking under the hood. I suppose it could also be one of the belt tensioners or idler pulleys. So, the question is this: how can I figure out which one is the culprit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:33:14.277" Title="How to pinpoint a noisy bearing or pulley" Tags="|pulley|bearing|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2011-03-14T05:43:34.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use an auto repair stethoscope or even a long socket extension as a substitute to listen to each pulley when you start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's truly a bearing issue, you'll hear it right away when you find the affected part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:33:14.277" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:33:14.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:48:27.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the e-brake, it could need an adjustment. How is the brake pedal? Is it soft? Is the noise only occurring when pressed hard or when braking soft as well?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:20:15.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:20:15.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="308" CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:55:52.633" Score="6" ViewCount="72088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car that isn't running at the moment, but that soon will be.  Where I live, it rains 7 days per week, and I've recently cleaned mold from the interior of the vehicle.  What types of things can I do in the meantime to prevent the growth of mold while I wait for enough money to get the car back on the road and to get the window fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some ideas that I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car Cover:  Will this just trap in the moisture?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arm And Hammer Baking Soda?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T12:16:54.043" Title="How Do You Keep Mold From Growing In a Non-Running Car That Has Leaky Windows?" Tags="|interior|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2011-03-14T08:00:16.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/sip/bmw-vehicles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Q&amp;amp;A Site specifically targeted at BMW owners&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T08:00:16.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-14T09:16:26.447" Score="1" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird Fordor with bucket seats.  The seat-track motor gears that connect the motor to the track have worn out.  Most of the catalog parts stores that specialize in Thunderbird parts don't even have any parts in their catalog for the seat tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one go about locating these parts?  Why are they so hard to find?  What are some alternative methods for getting this repaired?  Has anyone ever successfully converted a Ford electric drivers seat to a manual seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivers seat is electric. Currently, it won't go forward or backward and is stuck almost all the way to the front near the steering wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-10-07T21:37:43.500" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T21:37:43.500" Title="How Do I Locate Difficult-To Find Power Seat Track Interior Parts for a 1968 Ford Thunderbird?" Tags="|ford|interior|thunderbird|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2011-03-14T12:59:04.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new, full body car cover should shed the water so it doesn't get in.  It shouldn't bead up underneath, so there shouldn't be a moisture trapping problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T12:59:04.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1545" CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:08:49.507" Score="3" ViewCount="3377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SL and someone hit me (gently) on the rear bumper. It somehow managed to bend my fuel door's hinge and now the door doesn't open and close smoothly. I have to pry it out when I need to open it and I have to push on it (towards the front of the car) to get it to fit back in each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an easy fix/replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T06:19:02.177" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T04:40:33.887" Title="Fuel door hinge got bent. Is there an easy fix?" Tags="|nissan|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="311" CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:10:17.627" Score="6" ViewCount="20095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Volvo 940. A few months ago, the speedometer started malfunctioning intermittently. Sometimes it would read correctly, other times the needle would wobble around, and sometimes it would read zero. It was more likely to misbehave at highway speed (say, over 50 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T12:27:55.923" Title="Intermittently fluctuating/non-functioning speedometer in Volvo 940. Possible causes?" Tags="|volvo|speedometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:32:11.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wiring from the speed sensor to the back of the instrument panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The speedometer itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always with electrical problems, test the simplest/cheapest component first. In this case, it's the wiring. You can run your own wiring from the sensor, up through one of the holes in the floor of the trunk (covered by rubber plugs, which you can easily remove), through the passenger compartment (through the ski passthrough if it's a sedan) and to the back of the instrument cluster. Instructions for removing the cluster and identifying the sensor wiring are here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tested with your own &quot;known good&quot; wiring, further problems are the fault of either the speed sensor or the speedometer/instrument cluster. Speedometer failures are common in these cars due to leaking capacitors on the speedometer's integrated circuit board (separate from the printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. The 940 speedometer is made by Yazaki, for which replacement parts are difficult or impossible to find. I was only able to find two shops that claimed to be able to test and repair the gauge. They are listed in this forum post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1453661/940/960/980/V90/S90/yazaki_speedometer_repair_sources_updated.html&quot;&gt;http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1453661/940/960/980/V90/S90/yazaki_speedometer_repair_sources_updated.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacement speed sensors cost over $100. Your best bet is to have a gauge shop bench test the gauge itself to determine if it is at fault. If the problem is intermittent, they may have to test for a long time. If necessary, the repair will cost $200–$400, not including shipping. Alternatively, if you are good at (un)soldering very small circuit board connections, you could order replacement capacitors and repair the speedometer yourself. More details about diagnosing and repairing Volvo 700/900 speedometer problems can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A warning:&lt;/strong&gt; Do not drive the car with the instrument cluster removed. The alternator will not charge properly without the battery warning light circuit, and you will drain your battery. I learned this the hard way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T16:32:11.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="364" CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:39:29.353" Score="27" ViewCount="148281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for a new car battery for a 1998 Subaru Outback (2.5l). For the physical dimensions, the battery has to match. But I see some variance in capacity (Ah) rating, and in price too, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intuition goes, as usual, &quot;higher is better&quot;. The obvious advantage--if I replace my current 55Ah battery with 60Ah one, I'll be able to, say, play music with the engine off for longer, and still be able to start the car. Are there disadvantages of higher capacity though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, apart from capacity, which, if any, of the other characteristics (CA, CCA, HCA, RCM etc.) make significant difference in practice and should be paid attention to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="104" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:42:59.893" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:47:25.227" Title="Pros/cons of higher capacity car battery?" Tags="|battery|subaru|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:03:42.680" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say there are disadvantages per se.  My personal policy is that whenever a battery needs to be replaced on any car, I go with an Optima red or yellow top gel cell battery.  They don't leak, the yellow ones are deep-discharge friendly so you can run them down (say by accidentally leaving your lights on) and not kill them, and they seemingly last forever.  Simply put, last battery you'll ever buy. Sure they're $150-$200, but if I get 10 years of use out of one, I feel its worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T17:03:42.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:05:16.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The #1 solution is to fix the source of the leak, otherwise you will continually get moisture inside your vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have mold abatement solutions designed to kill mold.  take a look at this thread&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/112826-1979-mercedes-450sl-complete-interior-mold-abatement.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/112826-1979-mercedes-450sl-complete-interior-mold-abatement.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T17:05:16.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2011-03-14T18:25:02.767" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep a big tub of Damp Rid or whatever I can get at West Marine in my motorhome when it's not being used to help keep the interior as dry as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to help, I usually empty the bucket out every few weeks and there's usually at least a pint or more of collected condensate inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional note from other another reader-&#xA;West marine has a disposable small bucket reloadable pack for about $10 but you have to keep buying the reloads. For less than $20 they had a pack that you put in the microwave to dry out and recycle, but you have to take the time to dry it out.   Seemed like a good thingfor my ongoing car application.   I was at the West store this afternoon and bought one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T10:46:38.497" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T10:46:38.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:30:47.320" Score="8" ViewCount="8493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the turn signal relay in my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee replaced due to regular/intermittent malfunctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the replacement of the part, there would be unpredictable occasions when the signals (hazards included) would not work.  Sometimes they would stop working in the middle of use, or sometimes they just wouldn't work from the time the car was started.  Most of the times, once they'd stopped working, they wouldn't start working again until the next time the car was used.  Once in awhile though, it would clear up mid-drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the part was replaced, the signals work fairly reliably.  However, there have been a couple peculiarities since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, the first lighting of the signal will always be much longer than the remaining blinks.  When I switch the signal on, it will light for nearly a full second before cutting off and going into a regular blinking rhythm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue that has me really scratching my head though, is that on rare occasion I will hear just a single click from the signal without any provocation.  There does not seem to be anything in particular that sets this off, and it does not consistently occur around any time during which I've actually &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; the signals.  Additionally, when the click is heard, I do not observe any indications that any of the signals have actually turned on or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this sort of anomaly?  Is this likely to be a hazard (pardon the pun) to the health of the system or components in the long run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Some more details I've noticed as the problem has persisted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is more prominent during the morning, or in cooler and more humid weather.  Occasionally, instead of just one click, it will be a long series of rapid clicks as if something is jammed.  While on some occasions the symptom seems entirely unprovoked, it often coincides with a press of the brake pedal.  When the &quot;jamming&quot; occurs by this trigger, releasing the brake seems to relieve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be that the only time I could reproduce the problem was in the mornings.  Now, it seems that it happens almost any time the car is started &quot;cold&quot;, and gradually lessens as the vehicle warms up.  The &quot;jamming&quot; has not happened in awhile, but the click-with-brake happens more regularly now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car to the shop awhile ago to have the issue checked, but of course they were unable to reproduce this intermittent problem.  Perhaps I'll give it another shot, now that it's happening more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - New detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the reason this problem seems more prominent in the morning, or in cooler humid weather, is because the rear defroster somehow exacerbates it.  I was late in kicking that on this morning, and noticed that the instant I did was when the signal clicker did its &quot;jamming&quot; thing while braking.  The issue does still happen from time to time without the rear defroster, but there's a marked increase in the frequency and severity when it is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T17:08:21.503" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T17:08:21.503" Title="Turn signal clicks randomly." Tags="|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="309" CreationDate="2011-03-14T21:05:40.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it's the hinge, and not the body panels?  Remember that modern cars are designed with crumple zones to absorb energy.  If the gap around the fuel door is not even, and matching what it was originally like, I would have the car checked out by a body shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that modern shops will have a frame straightening device that can measure certain points on the body to see exactly how the body has been deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:05:40.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2011-03-14T21:23:39.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a service manual, but you can get technical drawings and parts lists from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;realoem&lt;/a&gt;.  But if you're planning on doing anything beyond changing your wiper blades, get the Bentley manual.  Sure, it's expensive for a book, but if it saves even one hour of a BMW mechanic's labor costs, you'll still come out ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:23:39.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="172" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:00:41.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem on my '98 GC and it turned out to be the lock/sensor on the glass hatch door. By pulling the cover off the entire hatch, I could tweak the wires going into the sensor/lock assemblies. When I torqued the one on the glass door, it would go on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't found a good way to fix it yet, I was able to yank the wires off that assembly completely and the problem went away until I do (remember to lock it first, if you care). I lost the ability to use that glass door, but it hasn't bothered me enough to fix it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="161" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:52:24.623" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:52:24.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="273" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:22:19.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the bulb as mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/273/possible-short-in-reverse-lights-on-2003-nissan-frontier-pickup-truck/292#292&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/116/jeremyp&quot;&gt;JeremyP&lt;/a&gt; it's quick and easy to eliminate, but it's unlikely because only one of the bulbs would go out if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next set the parking brake, ignition on, trans in reverse. The lights should be working. Now wiggle the wiring harness from the switch where it comes out of the transmission as far up as you can reach while someone is watching the lights in the back to see if they blink on and off. Do the same for the harness running to the tail lights if you make the lights blink the open wire will be in the area where you are wiggling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a two prong switch as shown in JeremyP's answer you can simply jump across the connector on the harness side (Just make sure you use something small so you don't spread the contacts out or you will create the problem you are trying to fix) back up where you have made the lights blink before and see if they still blink. If so further inspection/repair of the harness will be required. If not it's a safe bet it's the switch, or the adjustment of the switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T22:22:19.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:24:21.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://opposedforces.com/parts/&quot;&gt;Subaru parts catalog&lt;/a&gt; online. I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_20/suspension_and_axle/front_suspension/illustration_1/&quot;&gt;this is the drawing&lt;/a&gt; you want. I'm not sure what you mean by &quot;front&quot; bolt, though -- isn't one directly above the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T01:03:13.223" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T01:03:13.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="324" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:29:00.873" Score="22" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my car in for the engine light.  It turned out to be a minor problem (crack in gas cap let water in).  It would be nice to have a low-cost OBD-II reader to be able to find out for myself and either go to service immediately or delay it until tomorrow.  The specific vehicle is a 2003 Honda Odyssey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features should I look for in an OBD-II reader for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading some more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit that can reset the light is a must&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you plan to always have a PC available, one with a screen that can display the numbers and what they mean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people may wish one that works with an Android or iPhone. Some of those apps are wireless. But these ones seem to be more expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="12334" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T21:42:08.363" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T21:42:08.363" Title="What are good features to look for in an OBD-II reader" Tags="|honda|cel|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:54:13.700" Score="3" ViewCount="3667" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electrically-operated sunroof on my Mk3 (1995) VW Golf has trouble operating under its own power.  When I push the button to open/close it, it moves a fraction of an inch and then gets stuck, with something in the circuit making an audible &quot;click&quot; noise.  It is possible to open/close the sunroof all the way by pushing the button dozens of times in quick succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to investigate / fix this?  Does it just need some kind of lubrication, or is there a problem with the circuit?  (The click noise makes me think that something is overloading, or ... something.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T03:58:18.617" Title="How to fix stuck electric sunroof on MkIII VW?" Tags="|vw|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2011-03-14T23:06:43.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For checking codes, any off the shelf obd2 reader will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have fun, ELM327 based OBD2 readers are all the rage right now.  You can pick up a bluetooth version for ~$40 on amazon or ebay.  Several iOS and android apps (like Torque) exist that can read a signal from these adapters and do full on data-logging.  This will let you read/clear codes (some will even tell you what the codes mean) as well as display/log other handy data streams such as timing, RPM, coolant temp, etc etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T23:06:43.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-14T23:10:01.823" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't disregard the Cold Crank Amps (CCA) rating. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery#Terms_and_ratings&quot;&gt;CCA is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F&lt;/a&gt;. This is something to be aware of if you live in a cold area during the winter. If you live somewhere warm this probably isn't a concern for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Massachusetts and this past winter saw several negative degree mornings, during which it was very difficult for the engine to turn over. After replacing my battery with a higher CCA rating, it was much easier to get started in the cold mornings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T23:10:01.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="411" CreationDate="2011-03-14T23:19:05.353" Score="4" ViewCount="4445" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old &quot;breather hose&quot; on my Mk3 VW Golf became cracked and fell off.  I bought a replacement tube, which connects to part of the PCV apparatus on top of the engine via a hose clamp, but it is not clear how it is meant to attach at the bottom of the engine.  There must be some kind of clip that I need -- how can I find the part number and order it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the engine compartment, with the tube in question outlined in red:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JevkF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a close-up of where it should connect to the engine at the bottom:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KuWl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How should the tube be secured?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastEditorUserId="149" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T19:24:29.457" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T18:18:40.720" Title="How to attach PCV breather hose on MkIII Golf?" Tags="|vw|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="323" CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:18:29.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really only two possibilities, or a combination of both.  First, the motor may be failing.  Over time, they get &quot;tired&quot; and will open and close sluggishly.  Before your sunroof malfunctioned, did you notice it getting more sluggish over time?  Opening, closing, or both? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second possibility is a physical obstruction.  The click you are hearing could be a misalignment of the track or debris. OR the circuit can be designed to trip if it encounters a certain amount of resistance to avoid doing any damage.  Remove the interior panel (the one that slides into the headliner) to make sure thats not blocking movement.  Next look to see if there are any areas you can clean and/or lubricate to see if this improves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T04:18:29.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="316" CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:20:04.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would swap out the switch assembly itself to see if the problem persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T04:20:04.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="331" CreationDate="2011-03-15T05:20:41.487" Score="26" ViewCount="256830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to disassemble the exhaust system on a 2000-2003 Nissan Maxima and I'm having trouble removing one last bolt. It's got a 14mm head and its just plain STUCK. I've tried soaking it overnight with PB Blaster, then the next morning I tried removing it with a 2ft long breaker bar + a 2ft extension. After making absolutely positive I was trying to turn it the proper direction, I braced myself by putting both feet on a framerail and pushing with all my strength. And then, my socket shattered into a billion pieces.  Bolt: 1 Me:0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:52:28.627" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T01:56:51.417" Title="What is the best way to remove a stuck/rusted exhaust bolt?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2011-03-15T06:02:40.887" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;My general rule for exhaust bolts/nuts is to order new ones with the part you are replacing, knowing full well that there is a good chance you'll destroy the ones you are removing. Better to be prepared ahead of time than to be stuck waiting for new parts from another country after you've disassembled everything. Personally, I have a rule of ordering every bolt and nut that is attached to the exhaust member I'll be replacing. Even if there isn't much rust, I never know when a bolt will snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First task is to let the exhaust completely cool. It's possible that the parts are made of different types of metal which expand and contract at different rates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how to get the rusted bolts off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an impact wrench. Sometimes the vibration and hammering action works better to &quot;knock&quot; a bolt loose, compared to wrench/breaker bar. In my experience, this is the first tool of choice for 95% of techs working on an exhaust system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a big breaker bar. 2 ft is okay, 4 ft is more like it. Use high quality, name brand tools that won't flex or shatter on you (or at least give you free replacements when they do shatter). The flexing is important. If the cheap breaker bar is flexing instead of transferring the full torque, you may as well not have it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there is just too much material rusted off of the bolt for either of the above to work. Or one of the above techniques may round out the bolt before it comes out. In this case, the bolt needs to be destroyed so you can move on with life. Some options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Die grinder with appropriate wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw / airsaw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air hammer with chisel bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In extreme cases, torch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, use high temperature anti-seize when putting in the new bolts. They will go in easier, and the next person down the road will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety Note: All of the above methods assume you know the safety procedures for the tool. Of particular importance is having the vehicle properly raised on the car lift. Some of these methods involve violently pulling stuff around, which &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; cause the car to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T06:20:59.163" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T06:20:59.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2011-03-15T06:08:50.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber tubing is a cheap alternative to a stethoscope. You can buy a couple feet of it for a couple dollars at any hardware store, just be careful where you point it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank Click &amp;amp; Clack for that, it worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T06:08:50.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="316" CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:48:23.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a somewhat similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will have intermittent clicks when not using the turn signal in my 2006 VW Golf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is caused by tiny metal shavings that are suspended in the grease that is used in the turn signal and it will occasionally conduct just enough electricity to trigger the turn clicker without actually sending enough electricity to turn on the signal lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two methods to clear this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take apart the turn signal assembly cleaning out the metal contacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray WD40 into the signal assembly (I did not experience any problems with this, but YMMV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T14:48:23.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="336" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:01:52.070" Score="27" ViewCount="775603" Body="&lt;p&gt;The painted edge of a side mirror on another car recently scraped the side of my vehicle, leaving a scuff of paint about half a meter long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no indentation or scratch, but the other vehicle left its mark behind in a very difficult-to-remove paint scuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can remove it by carefully scratching with fingernails, so I am sure it will come off, but I'm not sure how best to fully remove it, as any paint-removing chemicals surely will damage the coat I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend for removing paint scuffs like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:59:31.303" Title="How should I remove a paint scuff on my vehicle?" Tags="|paint|body|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="374" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:22:06.760" Score="3" ViewCount="2982" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all in the subject...the level jack lights stay on even when fully retracted, which I think is a sign of low fluid levels. I've got the hydraulic fluid, but I can't figure out where in the $(*&amp;amp;%$ to refill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T20:50:03.687" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T13:03:36.647" Title="2000 Fleetwood Southwind - Where do I refill the leveling jacks with hydraulic fluid?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:36:27.887" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's deep enough that merely wiping it doesn't remove it, the scuff is deeper than just the very top surface of your paint.  First, try Meguiars Scratch-x with a microfiber cloth.  Rub it in. Try two or three passes to see if this removes the scuff mark.  Doing so by hand won't remove any of your paint unless its been compromised (cracked, flaking, peeling, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, have a pro detailer take a pass with an random orbital (or rotary if they know what they're doing) polisher + some compound.  This will take it right out and leave the paint pretty shiny.  The problem with this is, it will be shinier than the rest of your car and you may be tempted to just have them do the whole thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:58:05.857" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:58:05.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:37:25.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple options.  I would first look at a site dedicated to Thunderbirds.  I googled &quot;Ford Thunderbird forums&quot; and found several good candidates.  A lot of times other enthusiasts will be parting out cars or selling their stock in the classifieds section.  Otherwise you might be able to get some help repairing the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check on eBay.  I will create a saved search for rare parts and have it email me if anything new pops up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, go to swap meets.  Try to find Ford specific shows and get to know the most well known vintage Ford parts suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:37:25.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="345" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:43:36.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;The emergency brake indicator stays lit even though the brake is not engaged. Problem has progressed...early on, it would come on going around corners (?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably, some sensor needs replacing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T03:59:11.883" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:59:11.883" Title="Emergency Brake light on 2003 Chevy Tracker stays lit" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="316" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:43:50.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds (to me) like a grounding / electrical connection problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd check the connections on all parts of the system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relay that was replaced, and its socket / connectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The signal switch itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The connections to the indicator bulbs themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wiring harness connecting everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it sounds like it's on both indicators (left and right), it is probably something common to both sets.  See if the wiring diagram might give a hint as to where this could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem (though on a completely different vehicle) that I traced to an intermittent grounding through the indicators.  The fittings were crimped together, supplying a ground.  Oxidation had caused the crimp to have an intermittent electrical connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:43:50.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="348" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:46:20.200" Score="4" ViewCount="23892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 1989 Mercedes 300E that didn't run.  Has a straight-six gas engine.  Thanks to the miracle of Seafoam and a lot of luck, I was able to get fuel delivery happening again.  I then switched out some incorrectly-gapped plugs and pretty much every other fluid.  Fired her up, coaxed her through the first 35 seconds and VRROOOM!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have to get this car emissions-tested.  I'm going to burn through the old gas in the tank and refill with premium Chevron (which I hear is among the best).  I may try the top-down valve cleaning thing or whatever it's called with Seafoam (hopefully managing not to hydro-lock my engine in the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone have any other emissions-test-passing tricks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T02:07:00.530" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:43:56.990" Title="Best Ways to Pass Emissions?" Tags="|engine|emissions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:46:20.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are air filter cleaners available at dirt bike shops.  It's a cleaner you spray on the filter, then spray off.  Make sure your air filter is DRY!! before putting it back in the bike and running it.  A can costs ~7 bux or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user182" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:46:20.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:02:17.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts are cheap.  I'm of the opinion that if a belt does anything to make you even take a second look at it you might as well replace it... i.e. if there's any question as to its integrity, swap it out with a new one and properly tension it.  The first time you switch one out it'll take you a little time, but after you've done it once you'll usually be able to switch them out pretty quickly.  After you've replaced the belt then you can proceed with troubleshooting from there if the noise remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T17:02:17.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="371" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:12:11.757" Score="3" ViewCount="6887" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power window buttons in my 2007 Ford F-150 seems to have stopped functioning for the passenger and both rear windows and sometimes my driver window stops working. Since it is happening to three out of the four windows then I figured it couldn't be the power window motors. I also figure that water got into the door where the buttons are located and damaged or gummed up the buttons. So what would be the best way to remove the paneling and troubleshoot the door or electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastEditorUserId="186" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T13:32:04.880" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:32:04.880" Title="How do I fix power window buttons?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:13:01.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up an old Mercedes.  Previous owner said he'd switched out the fluids... that he'd been a mechanic for a number of years.  Long story short, NEVER trust previous owners... particularly when it comes to fluids.  They don't even have to be dishonest, they might just be incompetent or lazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fouled oil carries a bunch of crap in it that will end up embedded in your crankshaft journals.  Fluids are relatively cheap.  Even if I'm not sure whether I can get a car I've purchased running (which I was able to with the Mercedes), I won't ever again run the engine of a car I purchase beyond the point of sale test without first swapping out ALL the fluids.  You just never know what kind of crazy things previous owners have done (or not done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T17:13:01.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:25:22.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned going around corners, there is a good chance the problem is your brake fluid level. A lot of vehicles use the same warning light to indicate brake problems as well as emergency brake. If your brake fluid level is borderline, the cornering inertia (pushing the fluid to one side) may have been enough to trigger the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the brake fluid. If it's low, find out why. Either the system is leaking, or it is naturally low due to needing new brake pads. As pads wear down, the fluid has to displace that space in the brake cylinders, so the fluid gets low. If it's low enough to trigger the sensor, then the pads probably need to be replaced. In my experience, if it's this far along, both front and rear pads will be very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't top off fluid if there is not a leak, as it will come spilling back out when the brake cylinder is pushed back into the calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T17:25:22.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="429" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:29:29.993" Score="18" ViewCount="145200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a number of apps for the iPhone/iPad that connect to ODB-II readers via WiFi, but unfortunately that means that it disables 3G and all the benefits of having a 3G device built into my dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find any apps that work via &lt;strong&gt;Bluetooth&lt;/strong&gt; instead of WiFi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of you know if there is one available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T15:20:25.893" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T09:49:05.453" Title="What iPhone/iPad app works best with ELM327 Bluetooth OBD-II reader?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:46:54.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, gotta come clean on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;customer&quot; was me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I drove for so long with a 'dicky' clutch that it wore out, and they ended up replacing the clutch (and you all know how much &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; costs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not long after, the problem started again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking it over with a friend, we worked out that the pedal &quot;going funny&quot; was the clutch pedal return spring which was broken (TBH I didn't know such a thing existed). This meant that the only thing bringing the pedal back up was the pressure from the cylinder, so it lost pressure over time.  I guess that the momentum of the pedal during gear changes meant that after a couple of miles things seemed normal again, and when they tried it in the garage, maybe they just knocked the pedal when they got in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for several months, I just pulled the pedal up with my foot every time I started the car, and never had any more problems. After that, I went and bought the clutch return spring myself and replaced it. It took me about an hour to work out how to do it, but it cost me &lt;strong&gt;190 times less&lt;/strong&gt; than the clutch replacement did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T17:46:54.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="340" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:48:06.347" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a pre OBD-II vehicle such as this one, the best thing to do is get it running as smoothly as possible, using normal maintenance and repair procedures. This means no misfiring, smooth idle, smooth acceleration, not overheating, etc. The same stuff you'd expect to work well in every day driving. There should also be no check engine light. This vehicle will have some sort of basic self-checking, it just won't follow OBD-II standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of this is working well, then there is a very good chance you'll pass emissions. However, there are some conditions that won't show up in daily driving that could still fail you, and those have to be diagnosed on an ad hoc basis, after the test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mosts emissions tests will check NOx, CO and HC. A very basic rundown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NOx - Oxides of nitrogen. This means the engine is running too hot (2500F +). This can be caused by poor cooling or fuel mixture is too lean. Modern vehicles also have an EGR system, which exists exclusively to reduce NOx. If the engine is running in the correct tempuratures, and NOx is high and everything else is normal, the EGR system is strongly suspect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO - Carbon monoxide. CO exists when there is an incomplete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. This can be caused by restricted airflow (dirty air filter), or a sensor that is reporting the incorrect airflow (MAF/MAP, TPS), or a faulty O2 sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HC - Hydrocarbons. This is raw fuel, meaning the fuel didn't burn completely during combustion. This can be an ignition problem such as misfiring, or poor timing. Usually this will show up as a driveability problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot more to diagnosting emissions, as there are a lot of complex systems all working together, and all of the readings have to be considered together, not in isolation. For example, if all three readings are high, and the engine checks out and all underhood systems check out, the catalytic converters may be faulty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T17:48:06.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="340" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:03:51.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've owned a lot of cars that were... iffy... when smogged.  Here is the list of what I've done in the past. A lot of these steps are only marginally effective, but there are times I've squeaked by with a margin of 1%, so I think every bit counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure no error codes were stored in the ECU.  In some places, an illuminated check engine light or stored fault codes = instant fail.  Your car is pre OBD2 so this is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Part of passing emissions is passing visual inspection. Make sure your vacuum hoses match the vacuum diagram that is on a sticker under the hood.  Make sure emissions equipment (EGR, catalytic converter, etc) aren't missing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your sparkplugs aren't worn, gapped properly, and that your ignition timing is within manufacturer range. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a new tank of premium unleaded before your emissions test.  In your case, show up with about 2-3 gallons (more on that in a bit).  This will ensure there is less weight over your drive wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;remove all excess items from the car, especially the trunk - spare tire, etc.  (bear with me here)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;inflate the drive tires (the rear in your case), to as high as you can safely drive on them.  The goal here is the minimize load on the engine when the car is on the dyno.  Less weight over the driving wheels + less rolling resistance = less load on the engine = possibly slightly lower emissions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seafoam.  See you've got that covered. Be very careful and only let the car take small sips of this (when ingesting through the intake manifold). Watch some youtube videos of how this works. YOUR CAR WILL MAKE A LOT OF SMOKE.  When you're done with the bottle, shut the car off and let it sit 20 min. Then start er up and drive it very hard. MORE SMOKE WILL ENSUE.  Make sure you swap plugs AFTER seamfoam, as this may foul your plugs.  Afterwards, run a bottle of injector cleaner (like gumout regane or chevron techron concentrate) through a tank of gas prior to your emissions test. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the seafoam, it wouldn't hurt to have an oil change.  More lubricity = slightly less load on engine = better for emissions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MOST IMPORTANTLY.  make sure your car is fully warmed up prior to the test!  gun it up and down the highway.  When you show up at the inspections facility, leave the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and one more thing.  I've never had to try this, but I've read about some shadetree mechanics that have run a small amount of denatured alcohol with their gasoline to reduce hydrocarbons, but YMMV and you will need to serious homework before attempting this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T14:49:27.093" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T14:49:27.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:23:06.543" Score="9" ViewCount="2067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi A6, 2000.  My ABS light is on, and the brake light blinks.  I was told that the ABS module needed to be replaced at the cost of $850 minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get these things fixed rather than having to fork out so much cash?  I can get the part cheaper if I do it myself, but the ABS module needs to be recoded to my car, so I have to take it to Audi anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it just best practice to get a new part, rather than fix something like an ABS module?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Well I got my ABS part back and it works perfectly. So perhaps the way to go is to repair if you can. It's way cheaper, and appears to work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T15:01:30.407" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:01:30.407" Title="Fix / Replace ABS module" Tags="|brakes|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="386" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:25:16.030" Score="3" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the options (in Canada) for aftermarket headlights, e.g. HID, etc. for the Kia Soul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the Soul's headlights to be lacking, and I would like to get something brighter since I do quite a bit of nighttime driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;potential tags: aftermarket, xenon, headlights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T12:02:04.217" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T12:02:04.217" Title="Kia Soul aftermarket headlights" Tags="|headlight|hid|kia|soul|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:42:21.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's in a really tight spot, Dremels can work wonders too. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've had a bloody exhaust bolt seize on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:54:23.303" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:54:23.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:45:28.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also try several forums. A lot of the times on the dedicated sites, users create their own DIY guides ranging from basic repairs to more complicated builds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e46fanatics.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.e46fanatics.com/&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=15&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the stickied threads first, they usually have short cuts to the guides in there :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorUserId="98" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T02:42:14.980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T02:42:14.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:12:28.313" Score="0" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/91/battery-drains-by-itself-when-vehicle-is-parked-parasitic-draw&quot;&gt;Battery drains by itself when vehicle is parked (parasitic draw)&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something is leaching current from my battery. Leaving it parked for a few days results in the battery being almost too weak to start the car. I can leave a trickle charger attached, but I want to find the source of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T19:45:23.203" Title="How do you locate a battery drain?" Tags="|battery|electrical|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-03-16T00:03:35.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:21:31.177" Score="7" ViewCount="3844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are tons of readers and software on the market, but what I really need is something to convert signals of my1970s sensors (fuel level, speed, coolant temp, etc) to OBD compliant signals. I realize certain components like a pulse generator might be required. I'm ok with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any info converting standard, pre-OBD signals to OBD is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: The vehicle I'm working on is a Chevrolet Corvette, but the principles should be same for all pre-OBD vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T12:53:36.500" Title="Are there any OBD II converters on the market?" Tags="|obd-ii|conversion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:44:01.273" Score="3" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a chart that will tell me the resistance values for each fuel level. There are a few such charts like that for resistance readings on coolant temperature senders. Does anyone know of one for the fuel level sender as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T05:51:03.913" Title="What are the resistance values for a 1970s GM fuel level sender?" Tags="|electrical|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:45:23.203" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find your fuse box diagram. With everything off, pull fuses out one by one and use a multimeter on the fuse socket to measure the current drawn through that circuit. That will give you some indication as to what is causing the power drain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T19:45:23.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:47:14.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done it before. I just replaced all the seals and o-rings, cleaned out all of the old oil and then refilled with r-134a. That's about it. I did it on an '86 Volvo 740 and it worked really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="202" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T19:47:14.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:48:26.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find heat is far more effective at removing stubborn bolts than PB blaster or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T19:48:26.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:49:42.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a battery specialist, but I believe that CC amps (basically some sort of rated short-circuit current) would be an important parameter. Regarding the engine type i.e. if you have a diesel or a uber tuned racer with large compression ratios or just a large engine (V8s, V12s), you will need large currents to start such an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user205" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:47:25.227" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:47:25.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:51:47.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most dealers offer these coatings and protectants and they are little more than wax (if anything). I always tell the dealer that I don't want any of these coatings and I won't pay for them. They always take the charge off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing out there that will keep your finish looking great except regular maintenance. I spent 8 years in the auto body industry and never once saw the &quot;desert protection coating&quot; anywhere but a dealer marketing pamphlet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="202" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:53:59.217" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:53:59.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:55:55.747" Score="4" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would the use of re-usable (a la K&amp;amp;N) air filters, bring any performance drops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard stories from both sides of the argument.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="207" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:09:50.890" Title="Are there any performance hits using washable/renewable air filters?" Tags="|air-filter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:07:18.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of a performance drop from using a reusable filter. You will likely see mild performance gains. Reusable filters are better flowing than their disposable counter parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="202" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:07:18.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:24:34.700" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the stock-size battery is correct, and that's what you should stick with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller battery is likely to fail you sooner, unless you live somewhere without a winter (Hilo?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger battery is an extra expense, extra toxins, extra weight, and won't give you dramatically longer life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CCA&lt;/strong&gt; (cold cranking amps) is the main thing to pay attention to. This is a measure of how much current the battery can provide at 0 deg F, as @Pangea points out. Batteries work better when they are warm, so the colder it gets, the less current it can provide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting an engine requires a lot of current, over a very short time. Meanwhile, cold engines are harder to start, requiring more power to get them going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As batteries age, their internal resistance increases, reducing CCA. Total capacity decreases at the same time. This is why a newer battery can start your car in any weather, even if you leave the headlights on overnight, while an old battery might only start the car when fully charged, in good weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter batteries are optimized for short-duration, high-current draws, followed immediately by recharging. They are built with thinner plates with more surface area, which speeds up the chemical reactions that release the energy. If you draw them down to 1/2 charge, and then leave them like that for a while, hard crystals will form on the plates, which won't re-desolve easily on recharging. That reduces capacity and CCA over time. So, keep your starter battery fully charged, and avoid dropping below 80% during non-starter usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Deep-cycle batteries, like on golf carts, fork lifts, some boats, some RVs are able to tolerate being discharged deeper and left that way longer than starter batteries, but they really don't like a high-current draw like for starting an engine. Best to draw on them gently, and never below 50% if you can help it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So&lt;/strong&gt;, a regular car battery is not a good device for running appliances for a long time, without the engine running. However, a stock car stereo doesn't draw much current, so you can probably get away with it for a while without a problem. But if you leave it on all night, you may drain your starter battery enough to damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing your battery size will allow you to run those appliances for a little longer, but it's still not the right technology. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an RV or boat, you have a starter battery and a separate &quot;house&quot; battery, which is deep-cycle. Then use a battery isolator switch to use only the starter to start, then recharge it, then recharge the house battery from the alternator. (You can also use the house battery to assist the starter when the starter battery is low.) Some people build these in to their cars if they have really big stereos, or a small camping setup with fridge in a van or pick-up camper. You can learn more from RV articles, like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html&quot;&gt;http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:24:34.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="368" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:30:20.153" Score="7" ViewCount="75265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how specific to my car this is or not, so I will include my car information just in case: It's a 1991 Honda CRX, base trim(the motor is the d15b2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the question: How do I go about manually rotating the engine to TDC? Are there any considerations that I should take before doing so? I'm attempting to change the head gasket and I need to take it to TDC before I remove the distributor and heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T19:41:34.150" Title="How to get a motor to Top Dead Center" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:30:52.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head, the easiest way to get there would be using some sort of hobbyist microcontroller board, such as an Arduino. You'll need to add encoders since most of the data you'll be receiving will be analog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the CPU for your board will include timing by default, you can calculate time-based measurements (RPM, MPH, etc) from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have not tried something like this before, so am a bit hesitant to start pointing you in any particular direction without at least &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; expert feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="216" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:30:52.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:34:48.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no or little Teflon in the coating. Teflon has a melting point of several hunderd degrees Celcius and no one is able to apply that to an ordinary car. ;) Most of these so called enhanced protectors (Waxoyl, Teflon coating, etc.) are no more than some chemical wax-like layer being applied to the car. Protection and gloss is far better with normal waxes from respected brands although both require care (no car wash!) and maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:34:48.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:38:05.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;there should be markings on your crank pulley that line up when the motor is in TDC. Make sure the car is in neutral, put a socket over the crank pulley and turn it until it lines up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:38:05.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:42:53.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never experienced performance drops with good renewable filters. Most engines perform slightly better with a good filter in especially the low and high RPM ranges. A bad/cheap filter is not a good choice, some have too much oil (to catch the dust) and this clogs up the AFM until eventually your &quot;check engine&quot; warning light turns on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cold/open air intake can give performance drops because of bad hose design or bad placement. Some complete CAI kits mount the air filter behind the engine. This is a bad place, because the engine will be fed warmer air with less oxygen than the outside air you want to feed to your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when choosing a position for the open air filter you have to make sure it doesn't get wet. Wet filters don't filter very well and tiny drops of water will get in your engine with a bad effect on combustion. Also, water is not compressible so getting to much water in your engine will lead to damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T11:09:50.890" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:09:50.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="376" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:49:08.823" Score="4" ViewCount="5446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the engine oil and filter in my Westerbeke diesel. I gave it the usual (and specified) 4.5 quarts of SAE 30, specifically Chevron DELO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when it starts up it reads 80 psi of pressure (it might be more -- that's the maximum value on the gauge) instead of the expected 15 to 50 (idling to fully loaded -- it usually sits at 40). Oil level is correct according to the dip stick.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of the components in the lubrication system are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sump  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pump drive gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankcase gallery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure gauge and sender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil cooler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main gallery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearings and cylinder bores&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinder head and rockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought for a moment that the new filter might be bad, but given that the pressure gauge is downstream of it I don't think that could be the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never encountered this problem before. Ideas on what might be causing this and how to troubleshoot it? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:39:53.867" Title="High oil pressure after oil and filter change" Tags="|oil|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:51:44.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently this is a common problem with the 2004-08 F-150s. The good news is that if you have to replace the switches, a Ford dealer will likely have them in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Remove the switch panel. You should be able to stick a prying device (screwdriver, chisel, spudger, whatever) into the gap in the armrest and simply pry the entire thing up. You should see two connectors on the bottom; disconnect these. The switch housing is fitted to the armrest by some snap-tabs which should also be gently pried outward to free the switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Remove switch covers. All you should have to do at this point is pop off the switch caps. Underneath you will see some white plastic tabs which are resting within the switch contact points. These are loose and should be easily freed, along with the contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt; Check your contacts. If there is any black residue on your switches, lightly dust them off with sandpaper. If your contacts look fine, you may need to start poking around with a multimeter. If a contact is broken or otherwise unusable, you'll need to buy new switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed photos are available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/414955-how-fix-defective-window-switch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="216" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:51:44.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:13:43.200" Score="13" ViewCount="26283" Body="&lt;p&gt;What diagnostics can be done to to assess battery charge level? &#xA;I'm interested both in one-off tests like can be done in car service and also continuous monitoring during normal use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car panels usually have warning lights for battery/charging related problems. For example, user manual for my car says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charge warning light&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this light comes on when the engine&#xA;  is running, it may indicate that the&#xA;  charging system is not working&#xA;  properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested to diagnose problem further--is the battery failing? Is the alternator failing or too weak to keep up with demand? Are the lights, sound etc. too power-hungry, or maybe I should look for a short-circuit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking about battery charge level specifically because, even if the &quot;Charge warning light&quot; is off, perhaps the battery is constantly half-charged and is going to fail in few months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="104" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:49:52.403" Title="How to assess battery charge level and alternator performance?" Tags="|battery|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:35:16.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To test the battery, you can check it with a multimeter. It should be around 12v-14v when the car is off, but should be no lower than around 9v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your charge warning light comes on while the engine is running, it will most likely be the alternator causing the problem, since even if the battery is dead the alternator will keep the voltage fairly steady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="216" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T21:35:16.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="335" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:01:55.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reservoir should be underneath the chassis - follow a hydraulic line from one of the levelers back to its source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill plug should near the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:01:55.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:09:26.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely have to figure out something for the speed sensor.  A mid-70s anything will have a cable driven speedo so you'll have to rig up some kind of VSS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling the aftermarket has already produced a solution for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:09:26.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:09:50.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the gauge ever read less than maximum?  If not, I would suspect a bad gauge or sender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to follow-up on comments: check for a kink or other problem in the wire.  The wire from my oil temperature sender passes over a piece of plastic sticking up from the drip tray.  Over time, I lost one wire to relentless wear - rubbing clean through the insulation at one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a wiring problem, it's not impossible to fix.  It may, however, be inconvenient to fix well....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T03:00:11.880" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T03:00:11.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1150" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:19:25.780" Score="7" ViewCount="6991" Body="&lt;p&gt;My e46 M3 is making the tell-tale whining and groaning of a power steering pump that is either out of PS oil, or gasping it's last breath.  The oil level is fine, so I immediately jumped to the conclusion that the pump is bad. The thing that gives me pause is that the noise goes away after a few minutes, which seems odd. Do PS noises like this normally go away? The steering feels totally normal, still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have read that a collapsed return line (to the pump) from PS rack could cause the same symptoms. Will a collapsed hose be obvious from a visual inspection? How do I differentiate between a collapsed hose and a bad pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Jeremy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T19:50:26.570" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:27:26.513" Title="Power steering noise that goes away" Tags="|bmw|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:21:44.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measuring the state-of-charge of a lead-acid battery is non-trivial.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to use a &lt;strong&gt;voltmeter&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll need a digital meter with 3 1/2 digits of precision. Let the battery rest, disconnected, for 24 hours. Then measure the voltage across the terminals. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html&quot;&gt;http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html&lt;/a&gt;, anything over 12.60V is at least 85% charged. Maintenance free, gel, AGM, etc. batteries have different voltages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batteries vary, so you'll want to get a few good measurements of your battery to establish its behavior. Use a smart charger to get to full charge, rest 24 hours, and measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why people on boats sometimes have 2 banks of house batteries. One will rest while the other is used. When it's rested for 24 hours, they measure sate-of-charge, and then decide how to recharge - solar, wind, generator, etc. Then they charge it up, put it in to service, and disconnect the other bank to rest for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also measure the &lt;strong&gt;specific gravity, using a hydrometer&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't have to rest the battery first, but you do have to correct for temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because measuring state-of-charge is so hard, people often choose to &lt;strong&gt;measure how much energy they use&lt;/strong&gt;. Basically you install a carefully calibrated, low-resistance shunt on the battery terminal, then measure voltage drop across the shunt over time. If you start measuring when the battery is full, you can get a sense of how low the battery is after a while. This is typically reported in &quot;&lt;code&gt;Ah&lt;/code&gt;&quot;. There are still issues: cold batteries don't give as much energy; higher currents (over a short time) cause batteries to drain faster (than lower currents over a long time); you have to be fully charged at the start to know anything useful; as the battery ages its total capacity drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:21:44.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:35:31.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BATTERY - &#xA;As I have just found from a recent incident with a bad battery in my M3, a battery that will hold a high voltage will not always pass a much more rigorous load test. My battery was holding 12.7 V after 24 hours (disconnected from the car.. that's a whole 'nother story), but when I took it down to AutoZone they said it was border-line bad. The unfortunate part was the $150 battery was only 3.5 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way to perform this test is to drive around for a while to get the battery fully charged, let it sit a day, then turn the key to the run position (don't start the car) and leave the headlights on for 60 seconds. The starting voltage should be around 12.7 or so volts. Have your friend turn off the lights (or pull the battery cable). The ending voltage should be 12.0 V (or more). Anything less, and you have a bad battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALTERNATOR- &#xA;When running, your battery voltage should read 13.5 to 14 V. If it's low, your alternator is not charging properly (lost a phase, probably). If the reading is high, the rectifier is shot.  In most cases, this means replacing the alternator as a unit, although I know people who have fixes individual diodes on the rectifier boards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:35:31.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:47:09.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends if you're talking a drop in filter or a cone filter.  In many cases, a cone filter which replaces the airbox can suck in warm air - decreasing performance. Some cone filter designs come with their own airbox/heat shielding, or are relocated to someplace else where it sucks in cold air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drop in filter should not lose power per se, but make a few extra ponies (not entirely noticeable, more placebo than anything else).. on the order of 1-3% max power gain in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, aftermarket filters like the K&amp;amp;N that uses an oiled gauze is not without issues.  The oil from the filter can contaminate your mass airflow sensor over time and affect your air/fuel readings leading to reduced performance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, they do not quite filter as well as a paper filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say in most cases, not worth it.  There are some kits for turbo charged cars (like the AEM kit for the Evolution X) that make a good amount of dyno proven power, but average return on most cars I would say is 2 to 5 peak HP.  You would need to look up dyno charts for your particular application to see if there are any peak as well as &quot;under-the-curve&quot; power gains that would make this worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:47:09.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2089" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:02:19.823" Score="4" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if anyone knows how to reattach the rear hatch panel on a 1996 VW GTI which houses the license plate shown in the photo below. This panel additionally contains the lock and release mechanism for the rear hatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S98Bs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1996 VW GTI rear hatch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At present this panel appears to be securely hanging from the top portion of the panel. Additionally it appears it may just have been glued on, but that seems very janky to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="225" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T08:13:54.020" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T00:39:24.210" Title="How can I secure this rear hatch panel?" Tags="|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:08:12.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, removing spark plug nr.1, and rotating the engine until you can either see the piston reach tdc,  or feel it reaching tdc position with a screwdriver. But be careful to not drop anything down the hole..like I said, if all else fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user228" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T23:08:12.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:10:00.277" Score="3" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from not getting paint on the discs and pads, do you have any advice or tips when preparing and painting brake calipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="227" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T08:31:35.023" Title="Considerations when painting brake calipers" Tags="|brakes|paint|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="383" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:20:36.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure your calipers are PERFECTLY clean.  If they're rusty, clean them off with a wire brush attached to a drill.  Use a degreaser to make sure the surface is perfectly clean - otherwise you risk having the paint peel/flake in the future.  Then use a proper brake caliper paint that is rated at extremely high temperatures.  Do several coats and let it dry between coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T01:08:54.370" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T01:08:54.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:32:22.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checkout the Auto AC board at &lt;a href=&quot;http://acsource.net/acforum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AC Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good people on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don's right. You do need to flush the old oil out of the system because they don't mix. Also it's difficult to flush the compressor so odds are it will not last if you don't replace it. The best thing to do is change the compressor out if its older at the same time, replacing all the o-rings too. R134 operates at higher pressures and it won't be as efficient, so you have to be careful not to overcharge. Older condensors designed for R12 might not cut it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T04:57:28.923" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T04:57:28.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="351" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:35:34.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few rules of thumb that apply to the Kia Soul as well as most other cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid HID/Xenon headlight retrofit kits unless they're part of an entirely new assembly with optics designed specifically for HID usage.  In almost all cases, adding an HID retrofit kit generates a) dangerous glare for oncoming traffic  and b) does not properly illuminate the road - you will have very bright patches, but very little visibility outside this limited patch.   Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good treatise on the pitfalls of HID retrofit kits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid the &quot;blue look&quot; halogen upgrades.  These are cosmetic only.  They have a bluish filter that gives the light a &quot;white&quot; color, but do not illuminate better - in most cases, they actually perform worse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your best choice is to look for Hella overwattage halogen bulbs, which are actually brighter and will work around the optical parameters of your projectors.  Make sure your wiring/relays/headlamp housing can accomodate these bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many times, your light output is diminished because the headlamp housing has become cloudy/hazy.  Take a good polishing compound (meguiars scratch-x or swirl-x) with a microfiber towel, and rub this into your lights.  Put your back into it.  after 3 or 4 passes, they will be clear as new and subsequently restore effective light output.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T02:18:32.077" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T02:18:32.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="388" CreationDate="2011-03-16T00:09:08.987" Score="6" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a change of the valve cover gasket didn't fix a rather persistent leak (than managed to cover my entire engine in oil) I took my car to a mechanic. They called up saying that they have pinpointed the problem to one corner of the cover that they say seems to have warped slightly. Now this is a thick plastic cover, I am just wondering, is this warping common or is it indicating a larger problem? Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T19:52:49.470" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T17:20:48.600" Title="What is the durability of a plastic valve cover?" Tags="|saturn|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="387" CreationDate="2011-03-16T01:13:18.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would depend on the type of car you have.  The majority of valve covers i've come across are aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can try some RTV sealant or Hondabond sealant (pretty popular solution for this) in place of a valve cover gasket.  The sealant should mold itself around all the gaps and irregularities in your valve cover, making for a better seal.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, see if an aftermarket aluminum valve cover is available for your car.  They make them in colored/polished/chrome finishes for all kinds of cars - chances are they may have one for yours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T01:13:18.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="390" CreationDate="2011-03-16T01:24:52.907" Score="4" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about installing Xenon headlights in my car. I hate other drivers who have them because I go blind, but after riding in my friends car equipped with them, I'm more than ready to take the hate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is equipped with standard Halogen bulbs. I think that this means that in order to use Xenon bulbs, I'll need all the inverter electronics in order to ionize the gas and whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003FXVJSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; kit on Amazon and I was wondering if it's the appropriate solution. I asked a salesperson at O'Reilly autoparts here in town if $20 sounded appropriate, and he said he would guess it would cost a lot more but sometimes you can find good deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't what I'll need, can anyone send me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T06:40:11.560" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T06:40:11.560" Title="Installing Xenon headlights in 2004 Chrysler Sebring" Tags="|headlight|hid|chrysler|retrofit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:12:16.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I answered this same question here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/351/kia-soul-aftermarket-headlights&quot;&gt;Kia Soul aftermarket headlights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bottom line:  HID retrofit = bad idea unless your projectors are made for them. You WILL blind oncoming drivers. If HID is an option from the factory for the Sebring, I would get those housings rather than retrofitting your existing halogen setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good (though exhaustive) read&lt;/a&gt; on the pitfalls of HID retrofits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T02:17:53.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:21:55.320" Score="7" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to perform a motor swap on a Z32 chassis (1990-1996) 300zx twin turbo.  Low mileage japanese motors are plentiful and cost a bit less than motors sourced from US cars.  The specs and engine codes appear identical, and I've verified that they bolt right in and work with existing US wiring.  Are there any other precautions or caveats that I should consider before buying one of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:05:17.423" Title="What to check for when purchasing a used and/or imported motor" Tags="|motors|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:24:29.013" Score="9" ViewCount="3688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know several people (mainly broke college kids) that have aging cars (read: beaters) that, while they have their share of issues, have motors that are on their last legs - losing compression, burning oil, maybe some smoking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some ways they can extend the life of their motors or get more use from their car for the least amount of money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T11:50:26.113" Title="How to extend the life of a worn motor?" Tags="|old-cars|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:35:07.803" Score="4" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across a 4th generation 1000+rwhp Supra with a big single turbo conversion, stock rear end, stock transmission, and Nitto drag radials.  After repeated trips to the dragstrip, we expected the rear end/factory torsen LSD to give up the ghost first but rather, the car insists on killing the factory engine mounts.  We upgraded to polyurethane engine mounts and these are getting killed as well.  What is a good aftermarket alternative to hold all this power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T08:06:45.633" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T00:27:12.413" Title="where to find more durable engine mounts for big HP 93 Toyota Supra Turbo" Tags="|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="399" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:51:50.443" Score="4" ViewCount="15920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new 2011 Honda Fit and while driving it home from the dealer, I noticed that a little light on the dashboard was on that said &quot;TPMS&quot;.  When I got home, I consulted the owner's manual and learned that this acronym stands for &quot;Tire Pressure Monitoring System&quot;, and that the light being on indicates that there is a problem with the system.  (There is a different indicator that comes on if the pressure in a particular tire is low.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual tire pressure was fine and there was nothing visibly wrong with the tires, so I called the dealer to ask about the indicator light and was told that it is fairly common for the TPMS sensors to malfunction in cold weather, in which case they just need to be reset by the dealer.  I'm scheduled to take the car back to the dealer this week anyway to have some options installed, but since this is a brand new car that I'm most likely planning to keep for a very long time, I'm curious whether this really is a common and trivial issue or if it's something I should be concerned about and push to have fixed.  I live in Colorado and while it was indeed chilly that day (I believe it was around 25-35F), it is certainly not unusual for it to be that cold or colder here many days per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="235" LastEditorUserId="55" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T12:26:03.673" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T11:19:01.627" Title="Can cold weather cause TPMS sensors to malfunction?" Tags="|electrical|honda|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="392" CreationDate="2011-03-16T03:47:33.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not use any product like SeaFoam. I have heard of it doing more harm than good on older cars.  It breaks apart the dirt that is holding the seals together!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are leaking oil, try using a thicker oil or adding something to it, there are many add-ins that work in different situations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take care of it, and don't drive it unnecessarily hard.  That obviously is not going to be too amazing for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they want to start fixing it, do one small thing at a time that can be done pretty cheap.  On my car I started with the fuel filter which was still the original OEM one.  It was only $25 and made a huge difference in performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="237" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T03:47:33.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2011-03-16T03:51:17.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to get your hands on it be sure to do a compression test on it.  If the compression is bad you will need to basically do a rebuild which will cost quite a bit more than what I am guessing you want to spend.  Check the condition of the timing belt, good way to see if the engine was taken care of.  That's all I can think of right now but of course there is more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="237" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T03:51:17.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2011-03-16T04:19:51.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS light can be triggered by metallic debris or dirt on the wheel sensor(s). The sensor tries to read the position of the nearby reluctor ring, but if it cannot then the ABS light will go on. It's also possible that one of the reluctor rings has broken or cracked, which would also cause an issue.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2hvH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reluctor ring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check the sensors and rings first, before just replacing the ABS module.  Here is another picture that shows where the ring is located relative to the rest of the axle.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKFZT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A6 drive axle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T04:19:51.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2011-03-16T04:39:12.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with ursa, if you can get hands on the motor before purchase then I'd pull the plugs and see how they look. Dip the oil in the dip stick and see how the oil looks, whether there is a lot of sludge or shavings or anything. Overall condition of the motor will tell you a lot about how it has been maintained. But the compression test is the best thing to do if you can, that will tell you a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:05:17.423" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:05:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2011-03-16T04:57:53.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's common for them to malfunction, but assuming there are no leaks in your tire the pressure at 25F is about 10% lower than at 70F which is probably enough to trip the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW with TPMS and any time the temperatures drop quickly the light comes on my dash.  If the temperature drop is temporary and things warm back up later in the week the light will often go off on its own.  If that's not the case I usually top off the tires with air and that also resolves the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T04:57:53.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="383" CreationDate="2011-03-16T08:31:35.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what NoCarrier said, realize that brake fluid is extremely hard on paint, so be careful about doing brake fluid flushing.  As far as getting paint on the rotors, I've heard that some people prepping cars for shows will paint a stripe on the caliper, so it may not be as big a deal as you think.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T08:31:35.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="392" CreationDate="2011-03-16T10:51:38.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a broke college kid, and having driven, broken and fixed my own beaters, I know what you're asking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your oil and water systems in good shape is the single most important thing when driving a beater.  A good investment, although it is often seen as overkill, would be replacing the water-, and oil pumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs can go a very long way by just cleaning them every couple of thousand km's, or when the car starts having trouble starting, if you're lazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air filters also respond well to a couple of slaps, to get rid of all the dust gathered on in.  Unless you find it drenched in oil, this doesn't need replacing all that often.  A clean filter also helps along fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user242" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T10:51:38.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="387" CreationDate="2011-03-16T13:17:02.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few year ago, I remember Stacey David (when he was hosting the &quot;Trucks&quot; show) commenting that he thought the plastic valve covers on the old Jeep Wrangler must have been designed from the factory to leak because he had never seen one that didn't. That doesn't sound promising. Maybe you can find some aluminum or steel replacement valve covers from ebay, car-part.com, or from rock auto.  What kind of car is it? That will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Here is a picture of the new valve cover gasket that I think will be needed on your car. I don't see any aftermarket valve covers (of any kind) for this car, so I guess plastic it is.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3n9E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44494&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LINK&lt;/a&gt; that describes the process of replacing it. It all sounds pretty accurate, except for the part where they tell you to speak with a Saturn mechanic... doh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T22:49:42.910" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T22:49:42.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T13:37:15.547" Score="7" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;A panel has come lose from my vw transporter t5 and on closer inspection its because of of the holes in the bodywork have flaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to repair this? Should I just go at it with a hammer and pliers or should I be more careful for risk of damaging the bodywork&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMiMN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-15T17:03:01.143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T17:03:01.143" Title="Repairing some bodywork holes" Tags="|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:01:30.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you doublecheck on the laws in your state before you buy any imported engines.  I know in California you have basically zero chance of getting a Japanese engine smogged, even if the specs look the same as the US version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T15:01:30.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="412" CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:46:28.913" Score="28" ViewCount="18303" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car still starts fine but when I turn off the car (just the motor . . the key is still in and &quot;on&quot;) I noticed the headlights dim to almost off. It's and older car and the headlights don't turn off automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is over 4 years old and in Arizona &quot;they say&quot; batteries only last 2 or 3 years. Should I go and get a new battery or wait until the car won't start? Can I test the battery with a simple tester to see if it's still delivering 12 volts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T02:36:46.033" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T22:47:54.133" Title="How do I test my car battery?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2011-03-16T16:24:19.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you lack a battery tester, drive over to your local autoparts store and have them test it for free.  The test is usually conclusive and will tell you if your battery is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you opt for a new battery, get an Optima red top or yellow top.  These things last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T16:24:19.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2011-03-16T16:29:14.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're really careful and it's flared outward, you can probably get away with getting a small hammer and tapping it back into shape.  However, I can't quite tell from your picture as the deformation on the lower hole looks to be more than just flared.  I'd insert the fastener into the hole and pay careful attention as to where the gaps are before deciding to apply some DIY bodywork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added precaution, you can line the fastener on your panel with some duct tape to give it a bit of extra &quot;bite&quot;.  A bit ghetto I know.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other alternative is to get the sheetmetal patched and to have new holes punched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T16:29:14.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2011-03-16T16:47:33.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a way, you have already performed the battery test by using the headlights. The headlights only draw around 100 watts / 8.3 amps. If the battery is having difficulty providing that amount of power, then the starter motor is certainly going to give you challenges in the near future because it draws hundreds of amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check to make sure the alternator is working by checking the battery voltage when the car is running. It should be between 13.5 to 14V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T16:47:33.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:48:32.160" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a general question:  How do you identify, in advance, what parts will be necessary for a repair (including all the various fasteners, o-rings, etc), and order them? Certainly for simple repairs, any consumer auto parts store / website will be able to provide.  But for more specialized parts, what do you do?  Or, what professional resources (distributers, catalogs, guides, etc) are available to the DIYer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T12:35:11.210" Title="How to identify parts needed for a repair?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="326" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:18:40.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got the answer &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5227128-How-to-attach-breather-hose-to-crankcase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on VWVortex&lt;/a&gt;!  What is needed is the small clip listed here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Engine/310/2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Engine/310/2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T18:18:40.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2011-03-16T20:20:36.627" Score="39" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Perform an open circuit voltage test with the vehicle off, and battery disconnected:&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the voltage with a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.66 = 100% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.45 = 75% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.24 = 50% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.06 = 25% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11.89 = 0% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10.45 - 10.65 = bad cell, battery should be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery is at or near 100% then go to step #5. If the battery is less than 100% then go to step #2 &lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; If the battery is sealed (maintenance free) go to step #5 if not check the electrolyte level, if low add distilled water and go to step #4. If not go to step #3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hydrometer test&lt;/a&gt;, check the specific gravity of each cell, they should all be at 1.265 or more if the battery is in good condition. If all the cells are below 1.225 the go to step #4, the reading from the highest cell should be no more that 0.050 above the lowest cell, if it's more replace the battery you have a weak cell. Otherwise go to step #5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Charge the battery. 3 minute charge test. Hook up the charger to the battery set the charger to 30 - 40 amps at 3 minutes check the voltage while charging if it's above 15.5 volts replace the battery it will not accept a charge, if below 15.5 volts reduce the setting on the charger to 2 - 10 amp range (less is better, fast charging reduces the overall life of the battery) and continue to charge the battery until the gauge on the battery charger show close to zero amps. Note this could take 8 or more hours depending on the state of charge and condition of the battery. Unhook the charger wait 2 hours for the surface charge to dissipate then go to step #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Load testing is done with a specialized tester, most of your local parts or battery stores will have one and provide free testing. First I will cover how to load test with a load tester and then a test you can do without a load tester. &#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;With a load tester&lt;/b&gt; load the battery to 1/2 the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) for 15 seconds while watching the voltage it should not drop below 9.6 volts if it does replace the battery. Once the load is removed the battery voltage should recover to at least 12.24 volts within 5 minutes of the load test if not replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Testing without a load tester&lt;/b&gt;, this doesn't put as much of a load on the battery as the test above so if it passes this the battery could still be bad, if it fails however you can be sure the battery is bad. Disable the vehicle from cranking by disconnecting the coil wire or fuel pump relay. Turn on the bright headlights and crank the vehicle for 15 seconds (no longer than this and do not repeat this test within 3 minutes or damage to the starter can occur) with a DVOM on the battery see if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts or does not recover after the test as mentioned above. If either of those two fail then the battery is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery checks out the next test would be the charging system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T22:47:54.133" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T22:47:54.133" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:17:26.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best resource that I have ever used is the service manual for my vehicles. They are available at most auto parts stores. Those manuals have the &quot;exploded&quot; view of parts that can be rebuilt and have all the instructions that the mechanics at the dealership use. Those will list what parts you need for a particular job. Also I usually Google for something I am going to do if I have never done it before and I either find the manufacturer manual also or someone has a write up or video about how they did it and what they needed. Forums for that vehicle can be a big help also as most people on forums are DIYers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T23:17:26.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="416" CreationDate="2011-03-17T00:22:44.283" Score="2" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, so I basically know nothing about cars save for that they have four wheels and an engine. My right brake light went out recently so I brought it into my dealer to get it replaced as well as to receive a quote for general maintenance they say I need to perform every 10,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 2003 Audi A4 1.8T with 48,000 miles and the itemized quote is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General service including oil change, wiper fluid, hinge lubrication engine/light/diagnostic check -- $380&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix obstructed washer jet nozzle -- $45&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Injector -- $120&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle Body -- $130&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Flush -- $130&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Light Bulb -- $60 (I'm assuming this includes labor, but not sure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Brakes (includes pads) -- $520&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Brakes (includes pads) -- $440&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I don't have much automotive knowledge I have no idea how fair these prices are, but something tells me I'm being overcharged. Could anyone let me know what a decent price for any of these services is? I normally wouldn't mind doing repairs myself, but I'm insanely busy with work and school at the moment and would prefer to have it done by a third party. Thanks for any help, I really don't want to fork out $1700 if I don't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="246" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T01:33:35.547" Title="Am I getting reamed? Looking for some automotive guidance." Tags="|brakes|oil-change|scheduled-maintenance|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-03-17T03:23:46.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="414" CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:00:33.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your overview it seems you are getting reamed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe a significant part of the charges you listed come from the premium of taking it to a dealership.   Found a blog post (&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2008/07/2008-audi-r8-15000-mile-service-cost-60033.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2008 Audi R8: 15,000 Mile Service Cost $600.33&lt;/a&gt;) listing that in 2008 the hourly labor rate was $120.  Obviously this can change by locale, but as an basis for comparison, it will give you an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil Change, wiper fluid, &amp;amp; diagnostic check - all very straight forward probably &amp;lt; $100&#xA;1a.  As for the hinge lubrication, I personally don't believe it's that important on a modern car and seems excessive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obstructed washer jet nozzle, probably fixed by sticking a pin in the top of the nozzle, removing the blockage - 5 minutes time (unless it is more severe, but you can't know that until you get into it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Injector - if this really needs replacing, approximately correct charge (but I would trying a nice fuel system cleaner first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle body - again, if this really needs replacing, correct charge (but see my note below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake flush - on a modern car, I don't believe this is necessary unless you have some damage to the brake system (ala leak or damaged master cylinder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake light bulb - normal inflated dealership charges, you can replace this yourself in 5 minutes and $5 at any auto parts store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front brakes - the dealership will most likely (for that high a charge) be replacing your rotors as well as your brake pads.  If you have NOT been hearing scrubbing/grinding when you brake and have not been driving the car VERY hard, this is unnecessary.  At most you would need to replace the brake pads &amp;amp; turn the rotors.  (There is a case where the rotor has been rubbed so thin that they cannot turn them, but this is not very common).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear brakes - see previous answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing any of this work I would recommend taking the car to another mechanic, even if it is another dealership just to compare quotes and see what they say is wrong with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T01:00:33.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="414" CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:33:35.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my take on their suggested maintenance: they are trying to pad their wallets. You went in for a light bulb replacement, and they suggested work at 10k mile intervals that most people never ever do to their cars (brake fluid flush, and hinge lube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a price list of all the parts that are involved in their work (from rockauto.com, a fantastic site for auto parts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil change (using Mobile 1 synthetic)  $6 /qt  times (say) 6 quarts + $5 for the oil filter = $41.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix obstructed washer jet nozzle -- One paper clip, bent straight.  Free&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Injector cleaniing??  One bottle of fuel injector cleaner $3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle Body cleaning?? I would call this unnecessary, unless there is problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Flush -- Unnecessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Light Bulb -- $5 from any parts store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front &amp;amp; rear brake pads and rotors  -- $100 for both sets of GOOD brake pads.  $260 for four new (high quality) rotors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TOTAL: $409&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a shop change the oil with premium synthetic oil, that might cost $75.  In independent shop shouldn't be asking much more than $600 to change ALL of the brake pads and rotors. It's also worth noting that the front brake pads on this car have wear sensor build into them, so a light on the dash will illuminate when the front pads get down to their wear limits, and even then the car will still be drivable for a few thousand miles. Do you see this? Do you hear any metal-on metal noise when you brake?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it all boils down to this: what does your owner's manual so for a car of this age (and mileage, but that is actually quite low)? You know you need a brake light. Is there any other work that you're sure you need, or any anything else about the car that isn't running properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that you can get by just by changing the light bulb (Part #17916) and possibly getting an oil change.  By all means, if you need assistance with the items mentioned above, just ask!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T01:33:35.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="424" CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:51:45.793" Score="39" ViewCount="16112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought new tires for my car and included was free tire rotation every 7,500 miles for the life of the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard many things about tire rotation, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's a worthless practice, don't bother&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires should never be rotated from one side of the car to another (something about the tires rotating in the opposite direction and the belts inside shifting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires should always be rotated in an X pattern (front tires straight back, back tires get swapped and put on the front)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any real value in rotating the tires? is it just about evenly distributing the wear of the tread on the tire? Can this be achieved just through careful monitoring of the tire pressure and alignment of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T18:45:09.570" Title="Is tire rotation important?" Tags="|tires|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:07:07.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always noticed that the tires on the drive axle of my vehicles wear out sooner than the other ones. This seems to be especially true of modern, high horsepower, front wheel drive vehicles, since the front tires do the acceleration, most of the braking, and the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can have the tires rotated for free, I don't see any harm in having that done, but I'm not sure I would pay &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much to have it done, as that money would be better spent towards new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rotate the tires when I do brake jobs and sometimes during oil changes, so I have never needed to take my cars somewhere to have it done - but free is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T04:07:07.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:32:51.780" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tires are directional and should never be moved from one side of the car to the other (at least not without flipping the wheel around too).  They'll have an arrow on the sidewall marking &quot;direction of rotation.&quot; Switching those from front to back to front will definitely make them last longer.  Not only do tires wear out on faster on the drive axle, they wear differently in the front and the back.  That's especially true if you've got any kind of suspension issues... any loose bushings or weak struts or imperfect alignment will greatly shorten the life of your tires, but regular rotation can help squeeze more use out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T04:32:51.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:08:49.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try removing all the sparkplugs before turning the engine. Otherwise you will be pushing against the engine that tries to compress the air in the cylinders and it will be very hard (if not impossible) to turn the pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T13:08:49.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:55:03.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always follow the guidelines in your owner's manual.  There will be specific instructions on how your tires should be rotated and, therefore, will also guide you on tire purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is AWD and requires unidirectional tires (check the sidewalls - there will be an indication on both sides of the tire showing &quot;rotation direction&quot; to remind you).  Tires from the left side should never be put on the right side.  Rotation is, therefore, fore and aft only.  If I didn't rotate, the wear would be terribly uneven between the fronts and rears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is entirely intuitive: the front tires steer and have to deal with the angles relative to forward motion and the loads that will result.  The rears don't.  If I didn't rotate the tires, the fronts would wear sooner and reduce my ability to steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, not surprisingly, feel that this situation would be sub-optimal....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tires are rotated, their pressures should also be adjusted.  I've found that when my tires are not correctly inflated (e.g., too high in the rear), I hear significantly more differential / gearbox noise during engine braking in second gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The above only applies to normal operation in normal circumstances.  If you're running your own race team, you may make different choices about your tires.  Likewise, if you're a rally race driver, you might allocate rubber differently.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All normal people should follow the instructions in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T13:26:09.910" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T13:26:09.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2011-03-17T15:22:57.620" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I believe the tire shop gives free rotation to get you in the habit of coming back to them every few months so they can sell you more, it can be important to rotate your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It all depends on the wear of the tires&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had sets of tires that wore extremely evenly and I only rotated them once.  Other sets of tires I have had wore very unevenly and had to rotate them multiple times during the life of that set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the question of rotation arrangement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It depends on your car's manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It depends on your specific tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other people have said, some tires are unidirectional and if you put the tires on the other side of the car, you will have problems.  Most of the recent cars I have driven tell you to rotate your tires front to back and NOT across the car.  I believe many manufacturers are going to unidirectional tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real value that comes from rotating your tires is that when the tires wear unevenly, rotating the tires spreads the wear out more evenly on each tire as well, as over the set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On each tire — some cars and/or driver's habits cause the front tires to wear more in certain places of the tire, moving the tires to the rear axle generally cause those worn places to not get used as hard and wear the other places on the tires. (i.e., a lot of FWD car's front tires wear a good bit on the corners since they are used for steering and power)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the set — the tires on the powered axle tend to wear out faster since more force is exerted through them to the pavement.  To maximize the life of the tires, you switch the tires on the powered axle to the non-powered axle so that those less-used tires (with more tread) are used to even the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:04:28.827" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:04:28.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2011-03-17T15:59:10.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, keep in mind that in a a 4-stroke engine (which virtually all cars are) each piston will hit TDC twice in the course of a full combustion cycle, once between the exhaust and intake strokes, and once between compression and combustion.  When a procedure calls for putting the engine at TDC they're usually referring to piston #1 being at TDC before the intake stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotating the engine to TDC really involves two things, manually rotating the crankshaft, and determining when you've reached TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotating the crank is most easily done with a ratchet attached to the crank pulley.  Things to consider before doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the transmission is in neutral, or if you're doing major work, completely disconnected from the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine is fully assembled (head(s) on and spark plugs in) it can be difficult to turn by hand due to the engine compression.  Even with the heads off the friction between the pistons and the cylinder walls will prevent the crank from spinning easily.  The amount of force required to turn the crank will depend on how many cylinders you have as well as the compression ratio etc.  You shouldn't need a 4 ft. breaker bar, but don't be surprised if you have to put your body into it a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's generally a good idea to turn the motor in the same direction as when it runs.  If you need to back up a little bit, that's ok, but generally avoid freely rotating an assembled engine backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determining when the engine is at TDC can be done a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming it was assembled properly there is usually a mark on the crank pulley that will match up to another mark on one of the front covers when the engine is at TDC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can remove the #1 spark plug and put a straw down the hole such that it's resting on the top of the piston.  As you turn the crank the straw will move up and down.  When it's at its apex just before it begins to fall the engine is at TDC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as I mentioned at the beginning you will often need to know if the engine is at the beginning of the intake or combustion stroke in addition to knowing if it's at TDC.  Keep in mind, if the head is off or the timing belt/chain is removed there is no difference between TDC before intake and combustion, this is about the valve train's position as opposed to the piston's position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the valve covers are off you can watch the motion of the valves for the #1 cylinder.  At the start of the intake stroke the intake valve(s) will be opening and the exhaust side will be closing.  At the start of combustion all valves will be closed and not moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also look at the cam pulley(s).  They will have some sort of markings to indicate when the valves are in TDC alignment.  This varies greatly by engine so I can't give any more specifics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T15:59:10.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:44:06.150" Score="9" ViewCount="100260" Body="&lt;p&gt;more generally speaking are 'higher Dexron numbers' also fulfilling the specifications of the lower number fluids ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="261" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T13:42:47.933" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T02:48:52.513" Title="Can I use a Dexron III automatic transmission/power steering fluid where a Dexron II is required ?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="165" CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:03:44.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of these. Inserting the suction hose into the dipstick tube didn't allow me to remove even half of the oil (the container is marked to show the level of the contents, though it's hard to read except in bright sunlight). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is an easy solution! Measure the dipstick tube diameter and go to your parts shop for a suction hose with a matching interior diameter (specify one that won't melt at 250*F). Put a touch of oil on the outside of the dipstick tube, as lubricant, and slide the new hose over the outside of the dipstick tube. When you start pumping, the suction will draw the oil up out of the engine. Using this technique I have been able to extract 4.25 quarts from my 4.5 qt engine, which is as much as I get by opening the drain bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some problems with the device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The suction hose does not thread into the vacuum chamber, causing it to lose vacuum pretty easily, and occasionally pop off completely. This is probably the biggest flaw. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to pump almost constantly to extract the oil if the device is placed above the sump. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup is a PITA. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I use the thing. The first time I used it, it was the easiest oil change I ever did, and each time is just a bit easier. It is also much easier to dispose of the used oil this way (I just drive the entire device to a local Jiffy Lube and pour it into their waste barrel, wipe it down with newspaper and store it in a moving crate that I prepped). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hose pops off of the chamber pretty easily. I affix it with tape now, as once it popped off mid use, making a huge mess. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will be a film of oil on the outside of the dipstick tube once you remove the suction hose. Have some newspaper ready. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can get the top of the chamber lower than the sump, you'll be able to set up a siphon. Slow but easy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil has to be hot, which you know, but not so hot that it melts the hose. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a large bag or box to store the thing in, and line it with oil-absorbing mats (3M &quot;HiSorb&quot; (or something like that) mats are cheap and work great). Before you start :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could go back in time, I wouldn't have spent the money on this. It's good, but even better would be something set up on your drill, like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407536&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DIY pump&lt;/a&gt;, so you don't need to extract it all manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T18:31:31.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T18:31:31.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="426" CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:06:22.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer for Transmissions, Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DEXRON®-VI licensed fluids are fully&#xA;  backward compatible and can be used in&#xA;  all applications covered by earlier GM&#xA;  ATF specifications.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;DEXRON®-VI replaces DEXRON®-III and&#xA;  DEXRON®-III-H in all applications&#xA;  except power steering and manual&#xA;  transmissions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the&#xA;  end of 2006, and will not be renewed.&#xA;  Beyond that date, General Motors will&#xA;  only support the use of DEXRON-VI&#xA;  fluids for use in Hydra-Matic&#xA;  transmissions.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dexron&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; Fluids claiming&#xA;  DEXRON-III type performance continue&#xA;  to be sold under abbreviated names&#xA;  such as Dex/Merc and D/M, however,&#xA;  since the DEXRON-III licensing system&#xA;  no longer exists, these fluids are not&#xA;  regulated by GM in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dexron&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T18:06:22.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:35:36.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Well, It's not necessarily dealing with the ELM327, but this looks like a FANTASTIC solution.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/cartrip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Griffin CarTrip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No longer getting developed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple is currently not allowing developers to use Bluetooth for this purpose. The only real connection is via Wifi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial &quot;assumption&quot; was that if you're connected via Wifi, then your 3G data is disabled and therefore you cannot use data while using the OBD-II dongle. This information is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. If you put your data connection in proxy mode, your phone will still connect to data through 3G, even when connected to the dongle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works very well except for the minor issue whereby the gauges poll once every second as opposed to constantly polling in real time with what's actually happening. This makes for a choppy user experience, but it still works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="173" LastEditorUserId="173" LastEditDate="2012-05-04T17:04:16.057" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T17:04:16.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="432" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:14:12.957" Score="15" ViewCount="25934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently they replaced my stock radiator with aftermarket one (at dealership, so I hope they knew what they were doing), and since then I feel that a car is not warming up enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I warm it up completely at garage - as soon as I start driving temperature drops. Driving at high speed drops it even more, when temperature outside is cold it gets worse too. I don't have precise temperature gauge though (only 4 digital bars on gauge) so I can't be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This new radiator is smaller/thinner. Can a radiator be too &quot;good&quot; and cool down a car too much? Thermostat should completely disconnect radiator from the circuit if a car is cold, isn't it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(at dealership they say it all behaves as it should, car is not over-cooling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car in question is Honda Prelude'92.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="164" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T14:39:16.597" Title="Can radiator cool down a car too much?" Tags="|honda|radiator|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:28:43.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermostat controls the temperature in the engine. It opens at a set temp, 195 degrees for example and allows coolant to flow through the radiator. If it's stuck open it would allow coolant to circulate through the radiator all the time not allowing the car to heat up properly. The complaint usually is the heater isn’t warm enough. If the thermostat sticks closed (obviously not in this case) the engine would overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too big of a radiator won’t cause the car not to warm up, however to small of a radiator could cause it to overheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T20:10:29.113" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T20:10:29.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:30:21.963" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the thermostat is operating properly the radiator will only come into play when the thermostat opens, when the engine is at normal operating temperature (around 190 degrees, give or take).  Adding a gigantic radiator won't make a bit of difference because if the engine gets too cold, the thermostat will close, causing the engine to heat up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the winter, the cabin heater will draw around 20% of the engine's heat in order to heat you. This will cause the car to heat up slightly slower, but once it's warm it will stay that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the thermostat isn't fully closing when you are driving, but works ok at idle. You might consider getting a high quality thermostat and replacing the existing one. It's also possible that the coolant temp sensor is on it's way out..  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the highway, a car produces lots of heat (at a higher RPM), which indicates to me that the thermostat is opening more (or failing to close properly) at higher RPMs since you are seeing a temp DEcrease at speed. Again, a new high quality thermostat should fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T20:58:58.613" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T20:58:58.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="393" CreationDate="2011-03-18T01:18:16.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titanmotorsports.com/raceparts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.titanmotorsports.com/raceparts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah... do you know what a 400, 750 and 1000 hp Supra all have in common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all run 12's. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="139" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T01:24:03.080" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T01:24:03.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="437" CreationDate="2011-03-18T02:48:21.257" Score="5" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every couple of years I find that the trailer wiring connector (7 pin) on the back of my truck doesn't work properly, causing the brake or turn signals on the trailer to not function. This is caused because the wires and screw-down connection in the plastic housing totally corrode away over the course of 18-24 months.  The visible side of the connector often looks ok (below). But, once that entire center section (with all the metal contacts) gets pulled out, you see nothing but corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tN1H3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to solve the corrosion issue? Or, more simply, is there a different style 7-pin connector that doesn't suffer from this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T06:34:45.110" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T06:26:04.510" Title="Trailer wiring corrosion" Tags="|electrical|trailer|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-18T03:46:12.070" Score="7" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the planning phases for a project to turn a 1990 Econoline Van into a moving sculpture. Part of the plan involves welding onto the frame of the vehicle (after removing most of the body). I am marginally capable with an oxy torch, but I'm curious as to what the best weld process is for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be doing most of the work outside, but semi-enclosed, and the welds need to be fairly strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="264" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T02:52:24.683" Title="What type of weld process should I use to weld onto a van's frame?" Tags="|ford|frame|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2011-03-18T04:52:41.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel level senders, when operating normally, produce a resistance value that is directly proportional to the level of fuel in the tank. The value should change smoothly as the float on the arm goes up and down. You should see no sudden jumps in resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a sender is bad, it can show the gas level as full, empty, or sporadically jumpy. Is this the problem that you are trying to diagnose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T04:52:41.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="434" CreationDate="2011-03-18T06:44:00.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used one of these, so I can't speak from personal experience, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://ezconnector.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this connector looks promising&lt;/a&gt;.  I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrtrailer.com/ezconnector.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review of the connector&lt;/a&gt;, I have no idea how independent it is, but it goes into the build details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T06:44:00.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="445" CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:09:00.707" Score="3" ViewCount="1818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where are the coilpacks located in a 1998 Buick LeSabre? Images would be most appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robert&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user267" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T04:24:31.730" Title="Coil Pack Location" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="440" CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:45:39.310" Score="4" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2010 Kia Soul, and I was wondering if I should get a reusable/washable air filter, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knfilters.com/news/news.aspx?id=2056&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;K&amp;amp;N 33-2960&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons I would think to get such an air filter would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save on the cost of replacement filters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less waste for the environment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better for the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit more power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of a benefit am I likely to see in each of the above categories from using a washable air filter? Are there other benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T15:54:09.867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T21:29:00.090" Title="Should I get a reusable/washable air filter for my Kia Soul?" Tags="|air-filter|kia|soul|performance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="439" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:53:50.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my most recent car before my current car, I put in a K&amp;amp;N air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I saw a minor improvement in horsepower, but it could also have been the placebo effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;You can save money with a K&amp;amp;N as long as the following are true:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You clean/oil the filter at the recommended intervals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't live in an excessively dirty environment (ala all dusty/dirt road driving)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You use the K&amp;amp;N for &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; three times the normal usage of a standard air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I did a quick look up at autozone &amp;amp; the price comparison for the filter itself is $22 vs $67 (this is just in my area, but I believe the price will be proportionate anywhere in the US)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Less waste:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes this is true, I'm not sure how bad for the environment the oil for the filter is, but overall there is less 'stuff' created when using a K&amp;amp;N&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Better for the engine:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most debatable, K&amp;amp;N claims a much higher &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knfilters.com/audio/audio_book_mp3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;filtration efficiency &amp;amp; increased airflow&lt;/a&gt; compared to standard paper air filters.  I believe that as long as you follow the instructions for whichever air filter you use, you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;More power:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I alluded to earlier it's possible, but unless your car has a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; inefficient air filter in it already, I doubt you will see much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:53:50.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-18T20:36:11.043" Score="24" ViewCount="95732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know oil should be changed every 3000 or 6000 miles (depending on the car and conditions) but I'm not all that great at keeping track and I've let the car go for 10,000 miles before and it still runs fine (I know that's not &quot;evidence&quot; that I didn't do damage I'm just pointing it out). Most place put that sticker in the window but the sun in AZ usually makes those illegible or the peel off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know fresh oil is translucent and used oil is black but will it be translucent even after 2000 miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T03:54:53.570" Title="How can you tell the oil needs to be changed?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="165" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:08:58.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to air you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cejn.us/Download/vacula/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vacula&lt;/a&gt;, it's fast and easy. Uses air pressure to create the vacuum. I use it for overfills, fluid exchanges, brake bleeding. I have had mine for more than 10 years without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQmJ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kllbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T21:08:58.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:14:48.873" Score="28" ViewCount="17071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't change the oil all that often (maybe every 8000 miles) and on my 10 year old car the oil light comes on and I need to add a quart or two (and then I start thinking I practically changed the oil and don't need to worry for another few thousand miles!). Does that mean it's leaking for sure? Or does oil make it's way though the pistons in an older car and burn off in the combustion process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there are no (new) spots on my driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T13:32:16.333" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T13:32:16.333" Title="Do I have an oil leak if I have to add oil?" Tags="|oil|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="443" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:27:57.363" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil is most likely being burned by the engine. You should change your oil more often, it's not just new oil you are putting in, when you change your oil, it takes the old oil and contaminates suspended in that oil out. So by added 2 new quarts every so often is not nearly the same as changing the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I would recommend checking the oil level on a regular bases, if you are waiting for the oil light to come on that means there is not enough oil in the pan for the pump to pick up. Oil lights come on around 8 psi in most cars. If you are waiting this long you could be damaging your engine because the oil pressure is too low. Now in the event the light you are referring to is an oil level light you might be alright as far as the oil pressure goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T21:27:57.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="438" CreationDate="2011-03-18T23:06:02.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the front U.S. driver's side, unless the engine is transverse-mounted.  Google got me these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuuMd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;GM 3800 V6 Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above picture is of a 2004 model, but placement will probably be the same across most model years.  Another post found via Google seems to confirm this, if you presume &quot;left side&quot; to mean the left side of the &lt;em&gt;vehicle&lt;/em&gt; and not the person working on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_to_change_a_Ignition_coil_on_a_98%27_buick_lesabre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_to_change_a_Ignition_coil_on_a_98%27_buick_lesabre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To locate ignition coil (IC): open hood, to left side of engine there are 3 IC's bolted to cylinder head; they have spark plug wires attached to them (6 wires between all 3 IC's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qyz8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coil Packs on GM 3800 V6 Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics are from an article on UnderHoodService.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/40247/servicing_gms_3800_v6_engines.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/40247/servicing_gms_3800_v6_engines.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2011-03-19T04:24:31.730" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T04:24:31.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-19T00:09:58.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Saab 93, 1999 vintage. I went to open the bonnet (hood) and the release cable snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the easiest way to release the bonnet without the release cable? I need to open it to top up fluids and also to repar the cable. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T21:42:11.093" Title="Bonnet (hood) release cable broken on Saab 93" Tags="|hood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-19T00:43:46.930" Score="4" ViewCount="6999" Body="&lt;p&gt;My factory Vespa bike can travel around 150 KM with its 200 CC engine and 8 lt. of gasoline. What are the suggested modifications to increase the fuel efficiency? Without modifications like getting a bigger fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T05:00:57.020" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T05:00:57.020" Title="How can increase the fuel-efficiency of my Vespa bike?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|scooter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2011-03-19T06:16:11.247" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find another way to keep track of your oil changes. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;put that window sticker in your glove box instead&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if your driving patterns are consistent, figure out how long it will take you to drive 3000 miles and put a reminder in a Google Calendar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;put a notebook and pen in the glove box. When you change the oil, write it down, with date and mileage. Also, when you fill the gas, write down date, mileage, and how much - now you can see how your fuel efficiency changes over time. Put the service receipts in here, and it will help you sell the car one day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;change the oil every 3 months, regardless of mileage (not ideal, but better than forgetting it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T06:16:11.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="434" CreationDate="2011-03-19T06:26:04.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you install a new connector, coat the exposed metal surfaces with dielectric silicone grease. This will keep out moisture and slow corrosion. You can also just squirt the stuff in to the connector. It might be messy, but things will still work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T06:26:04.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-19T08:00:44.343" Score="8" ViewCount="4142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to do my own regular oil changes, and only take my car to the mechanic/dealer for significant servicing milestones (e.g. 30/60/90k).  Each time I change the oil, I can't help but feel that I've skipped checking something important.  What is a good checklist to go through for routine oil changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:54:38.907" Title="Oil change checklist" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2011-03-19T08:07:20.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staring with my own list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change oil and filter (obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check engine fluids&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transmission fluid (for automatics: with engine warm and running)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anti-freeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;washer fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power steering fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check air filter, clear gently with air compressor if available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate tires if applicable (every 10k miles comes out to every 2-3 oil changes depending on frequency)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all lights. (including rear and indicator, check alignment of front lights)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T03:54:38.907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:54:38.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="450" CreationDate="2011-03-19T12:45:04.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to change the oil drain plug gasket/washer.  Particularly if it's a &quot;crush washer&quot;.  Even on the copper ones that you can re-use a couple of times, I just replace them every time.  When I get oil filters for my cars, I also get a washer for each, and tape it to the filter box, so it's right there when I need it.  I usually do this right where I buy them, they'll usually have tape they can give you a few strips of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also always coat the filter gasket with some oil to help it seal, though there's probably enough from the removal of the previous filter to make that not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the filter goes in open side up, I will fill the filter with oil so that on re-start it doesn't have to pump as long to get oil circulating.  On older cars I've done a trick recommended by Pat Goss which is to ground the ignition coil input and crank the car for a bit to circulate oil, but I'm not sure how I'd even do that on my car that has 8 coil packs, one mounted to each spark plug.  It's probably riskier to the electrical system than the engine wear it saves would be worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people recommend sending an oil sample in to a lab to have analyzed, every couple of years...  I've never done that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T12:45:04.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="455" CreationDate="2011-03-19T15:01:14.520" Score="7" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my wiper blades... are these just garbage or would an Autozone or perhaps some mechanics recycle parts like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other regularly-replaced parts can be recycled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Other regular maintenance might include air filters, oil change, tires, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastEditorUserId="277" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T00:35:45.833" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T00:35:45.833" Title="What parts can be recycled when doing regular maintenance?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|recycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="453" CreationDate="2011-03-19T15:40:56.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Batteries&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying a new battery, most Auto parts stores will recycle your old battery for you. For example, Autozone charges an extra $12 (or so), which is refunded to you when you return your old battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T15:40:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="453" CreationDate="2011-03-19T18:55:57.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you change your oil, there are places that will take your used motor oil.  My Dad's shop uses used motor oil as fuel in the furnace to keep the garage warm in the winter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this seems obvious to many, but it never surprises me the number of people that would just dump this stuff in the grass :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T18:55:57.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-19T21:24:06.133" Score="13" ViewCount="43009" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A BMW 650, 1996 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a slow, but steady, drip of gasoline from one of two rubber tubes that output to the bottom of the bike. I think the other rubber tube is there to take water away from the carburetor, it drips water if I ride the bike on really hot summer days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdXXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline is dripping out of one of the two tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional context&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just taken the bike back out of storage, and refilled it with oil and gas, as well as putting a fully charged battery back in. For some reason, it's refusing to start - I don't know if the not starting problem is related, that's not what worries me. I'm worried to see gasoline drip out of a tube, when I don't know what the tube is for. Maybe I flooded the engine with fuel and this tube is there to drain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="280" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T22:20:39.753" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T06:46:21.093" Title="Gasoline is dripping out of a rubber tube outputting on the bottom of my motorcycle - is this normal, or is it a problem?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|bmw|leak|f650|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="459" CreationDate="2011-03-19T21:54:04.593" Score="13" ViewCount="9595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX, but I suspect my question can be generalized to apply to many smaller cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not being a fan of &lt;em&gt;donut&lt;/em&gt; spare tires, when I replaced my tires about a year ago I kept the one that was in the best shape, mounted on a used steel rim that the shop sold me for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much to my chagrin, the now full-sized spare does not fit in the well designed for the donut, so it's taking up space in my trunk (and sliding around a bit despite the bungees). I have researched kits for mounting the tire, but haven't found anything suitable for my car. Is there any solution so I can have a full-sized spare and still have my trunk space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:29:08.053" Title="How to carry a full-sized spare?" Tags="|subaru|tires|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2011-03-19T22:26:42.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most bikes the carb has an overflow port that drains through a tube to the ground. This is important if the float sticks. Usually you can tap the float bowl with a screwdriver and unstick it, but if it happens again, overhaul the carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't smoke around a bike that's dripping gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T22:26:42.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2011-03-19T22:46:30.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only see three options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modify the hole where the spare tire goes, read cut and weld in a new one &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; there is room&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a way to mount it outside the trunk, like under the car, doubtful that this could be done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See if you can get the tire un-inflated in the same space, my 1991 Camaro came from the factory with an un-inflated spare, and a can of what looks like fix a flat that you use to inflate the tire before you put it on, making it smaller to store.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it will be worth the hassle, either give up the trunk space for the full size, or put the doughnut back in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T22:46:30.757" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="461" CreationDate="2011-03-20T10:44:48.673" Score="5" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a '96 Saturn SC from someone, and he is letting me test drive it for a few days before I decide to buy or not. I took it in to a mechanic today who tested it out, found a few repairs that needed to be done, but nothing major. After getting it back from the mechanic I noticed a low pitched noise every time I put in the clutch to shift. It sounds like something is spinning at high revs then slowing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should be concerned with? The mechanic took the car for a test drive and didn't mention anything about it, but I'm certain the noise did not start until after I got it back from the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has 133,000 miles, and I think it has the original clutch in it still. I will ask the owner when I see him on Monday. He is asking $1,900 for the car which I think is a good deal, it is in great condition except for a few minor things.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastEditorUserId="286" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T10:53:53.453" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T10:57:10.963" Title="Car makes a &quot;winding down&quot; noise when I put in the clutch" Tags="|noise|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="460" CreationDate="2011-03-20T10:57:10.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the thrust bearing of the clutch that's worn down. It makes a whining noise when the clutch is disengaged and it reguires replacing the clutch and thrust bearing to solve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T10:57:10.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2011-03-20T11:51:47.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see why you don't want a donut tyre - an Impreza is for driving:-), but one of the compromises on the build means you really can't do much about the spare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just accept the donut spare is necessary - it will get you to a garage to get a new tyre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and offtopic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test drive a Forester STi - almost identical chassis, but a bit bigger vehicle, a bit faster, has full size tyres, handles better, accelerates better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(disclaimer - I always had Imprezas until I drove the Foz. I am now biased :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T11:51:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2011-03-20T13:38:40.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've helped a friend with the same problem. We created a double bottom with, and attached the top with hinges so you can open it. The cover has 4 bolts on it (the car uses 4x100 rims) and attached the spare to the bolts. When you open the cover you can use the spare and the well is available to store stuff like the jack and some other tools. Also, because the spare is mounted directly above the well there's no heavy object lying on one side of the boot affecting the handling of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep note that carrying a spare the same size as the normal wheels is important. Mounting a smaller spare on a driving axle can lead to overheating of the differentials. Normally on a 2-wheel drive you can swap a good wheel from the other axle to the driving axle to avoid this, but that's not an option on a 4WD Subaru.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T05:44:43.143" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T05:44:43.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-20T15:53:15.567" Score="5" ViewCount="27490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tent trailer and the lights don't work right. It has a 4 wire connector to my car but one of the wires on the trailer connector was worn out and probably not working. So I got a new 4 prong connector for the trailer but that 4 wire adapter goes to 6 wires on the trailer. This particular trailer has what I call &quot;surround&quot; lights in addition to turn signals and brake lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, one wire is &quot;common&quot; and I've used alligator clips to hook up and test what the other 5 wires do. One of them does nothing and I think it's because one of the connections in the back are not connected and today I'm going to try and take off the back panel to get to the lights (the light fixture itself is riveted on). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what should each of the wires do and how should I hook them up to my 4 wire system? Also the brake and turn signals are the same bulb just different filaments. I call them the &quot;small filament&quot; and the &quot;big filament&quot; even though they are the same size. When the parking lights are on, is that the &quot;small filament&quot; on and then the brake and turn signal activate the &quot;big filament&quot;? And that can't be right because what if I'm stopped and have the turn signal on. I'm confused as you can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T02:48:26.340" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T23:48:11.410" Title="How should the lights for a trailer be hooked up?" Tags="|electrical|lights|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2011-03-20T19:12:02.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram for the basic 4 wire trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uv1k5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow - Left Stop/Turn (the big filament as you described in the left bulb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green - Right Stop/Turn (the big filament as you described in the right bulb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown - Parking/Marker lights (the small filament as you described in &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; the right and left side bulbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White - Ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all hook to the respective bulbs on your vehicle, so when you are using the brakes and the turn signals at the same time they are mimicking your vehicle lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other wire could be for the surge brakes if equipped. They would be hooked into the backup lights on your vehicle to inhibit the trailer brakes while backing. It requires a 5 wire connector that yours did not come equipped with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes, to apply electric trailer brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 volts, for accessories or to charge trailer batteries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;backup lights, same as above but for actually turning on backup lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of any other standard wires/circuits that are used on trailers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a fused jumper wire and apply power to each of the wires with the common lead hooked to ground and see which lights light up if they are not color coded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another diagram showing how to wire up to a 7 wire connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKbv8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T19:12:02.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:44:21.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does that model have a petcock? Perhaps you just need to turn the gas off when you park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="290" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T20:44:21.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:39:31.173" Score="1" ViewCount="4559" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little while ago the airbag light on my 1996 Nissan Maxima started flashing. My regular mechanic told me that the airbag was fine, if needed it would deploy, and that the issue was most likely electrical. This is where the problem begins. He said that to turn the light off would require removing a few electrical components, it would take a lot of time, and eventually would require a specific electronic device to access the module for the light and turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I do trust this mechanic, he's been taking care of the car for 7 years now, got 180,000 miles out of it so far. I am just worried that there might be an easier fix that he would not be familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know much about the electrical controls of the airbag in the mid-90's Maxima?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note, I would love to add the tags &quot;airbag&quot; and &quot;warning-light&quot; but I don't have the necessary reputation to create them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="291" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T21:50:24.420" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T17:17:12.237" Title="Cost of turning off airbag light on '96 Nissan Maxima" Tags="|nissan|maxima|supplemental-restraint-system|mil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:56:53.163" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T21:56:53.163" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T21:56:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:56:53.163" Score="0" Body="Malfunction Indicator Lamp refers to any light that indicates a malfunction with a system like ABS light, Check Engine Light, Airbag light " OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:19:28.037" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:19:28.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="467" CreationDate="2011-03-20T22:37:22.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would find someone else to check out and fix the airbag, while this guy might be great at fixing other things on your car I wouldn't let him touch the airbags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if needed it would deploy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly depending on what the code is however it might not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He said that to turn the light off would require removing a few electrical components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This statement scares the crap out of me! You don't remove parts, you replace defective ones&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it would take a lot of time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again depends on the code, if you have a bad sensor it could take 15 minutes to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;eventually would require a specific electronic device to access the module for the light and turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tells me he doesn't have the equipment to work on the airbags for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T22:37:22.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-20T23:49:00.133" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the emergency light ((!)) staying on, just started 2 days ago when I went over a speed bump, Brake fluid is full, I topped it up a month ago, the gas task was close to empty so I filled up, but the light stayed on.  The light goes out when I first take the emergency brake off(after starting) the it comes back on and stays on.  The weather has been below freezing.  What other sensors are connected to the emergency brake light ((!)) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user292" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T00:03:59.150" Title="1994 Tracker Emergency Brake" Tags="|electrical|brakes|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2011-03-21T00:03:59.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proportioning valve will turn the light on, it's a small block that the brake lines run into just below the master cylinder. Should be a single wire running to a connector, unplug it and see if the light goes out. If so you probably have air in one of the lines causing the valve to be off center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T00:03:59.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="475" CreationDate="2011-03-21T02:11:39.220" Score="9" ViewCount="4871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee from a dealership. When we bought it, I noticed that the brakes were not working very well, and the dealer fixed them before we finalized, putting in a completely new system. However, my wife, who is the primary driver of the vehicle, has been complaining almost from that very day about squeaky brakes. I'm not wanting to take it anywhere, because I know the brakes are fairly new. How much of a concern are squeaky brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T21:16:46.937" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T21:16:46.937" Title="Squeaky Brakes: How much of a concern are they?" Tags="|brakes|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2011-03-21T03:03:28.660" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a concern really other than being annoying if in fact the brakes are new. It's not a difficult fix; just putting disk brake quite on the back of the pads should solve the problem. It should have been done when they did the brake job, so I would take it back to the dealer where you bought it and ask them to fix it. At my place it would be done at no charge to you if we had just done the brake job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting the brake squeal this question is referring to is when the brakes are applied. Brake squeal that goes away when you apply the brakes and comes back when you release them is the wear indicators meaning that your brake pads need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes a loud noise or high pitch squeal occurs when the brakes are applied. Most brake squeal is produced by vibration (resonance instability) of the brake components, especially the pads and discs (known as force-coupled excitation). This type of squeal should not negatively affect brake stopping performance. Simple techniques like adding chamfers to linings, greasing or gluing the contact between caliper and the pads (finger to backplate, piston to backplate), bonding insulators (damping material) to pad backplate, inclusion of a brake shim between the brake pad and back plate, etc. may help to reduce squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake#Brake_squeal&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/bsqueal.htm&quot;&gt;Further Reading&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="167" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:18:44.167" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:18:44.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-21T04:16:28.010" Score="5" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QQzbEQTWAo&amp;amp;sns=em&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QQzbEQTWAo&amp;amp;sns=em&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brothers and I have been working on this car since last fall.  So far we've done the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had the zenith carbs rebuilt and bench synchronized&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did a compression test - they were all around 112psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the oil (actually just replaced all the oil that had leaked out of it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked static ignition timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We still have the following immediate tasks on our plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the valves - We think that's what is causing the wicked backfires... Any input is appreciated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace a leaking oil pressure sending unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix an oil leak around the oil tank (see around 13 seconds in the video)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebuild all 4 brake calipers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything jump out at you from the video might be higher on our priority list?  We hope to have it in driveable condition by the end of the summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wish us luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...Peter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:28:52.143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:28:52.143" Title="Video: 1970 911T starts for the first time in 15 years - What next?" Tags="|maintenance|restoration|porsche|911|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="478" CreationDate="2011-03-21T05:24:41.190" Score="30" ViewCount="36871" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got a manual transmission car (2003 Kia Rio) I noticed that it makes a winding sound in the reverse gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example video that I found that demonstrates the sound.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi2t_VT6YWg&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi2t_VT6YWg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do manual transmission cars make this noise in reverse gear? Does it work differently than the forward gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T10:26:05.817" Title="Why does the reverse gear in manual transmission cars sound different" Tags="|transmission|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="477" CreationDate="2011-03-21T06:03:07.817" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;In manual transmissions, the reverse gears use a different type of gear teeth than forward gears.  Forward gears are helical gears, which have teeth that are pointed at an angle.  When the gears rotate, most of the load is evenly spread due to the angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse gears are cut into spurs, which don't absorb the load quite so well.  As a result, there is more of a whining noise.  The reason reverse gears are spurs is because reverse requires an idler gear to prevent accidentally shifting into reverse while moving.  This is what is known as the gears not being synchronized, and this is also why you cannot shift into reverse when you're moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you may find interesting is that my 1987 Ford F-150 4x4 makes this same sound when moving forward in low 1st gear.  The 4 speed granny low first gear is also using this same technology as it's only designed for towing or going up or down really steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on transmission gears, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question522.htm&quot;&gt;Why does my manual transmission car make a loud whirring noise in reverse?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T06:14:50.050" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T06:14:50.050" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="476" CreationDate="2011-03-21T07:18:29.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you planned on driving this more than once, I would replace all fluids in the car (oil, transmission/clutch, brake, coolant, power steering, etc.)  I would then look over all rubber belts and tubes to make sure they are all still in decent condition, if not, replace.  Vacuum lines need to be in decent shape also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know your brake system is in working and safe order, I would then look at the tires and make sure they are in good shape (no cracks, bulges, bubbles, exposed support wires, etc.)  Where was this car stored over the 15 years?  If it was outside, I would consider replacing the tires before going very far in it.  Might want to replace that old spare while your at it.  Just because it has decent tread doesn't mean it is a good tire to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T07:24:55.940" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T07:24:55.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2011-03-21T12:41:14.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be that the dealer didn't apply brake grease.  Brake Grease does NOT go between the pads and the rotors (where the friction occurs that makes the brakes work), but between the pads and the brake cylinder inside the caliper.  It also goes on the little metal clips that are on the side of the brake pads.  Often, squeaking in brakes is caused by the movement of the brake pads inside the calipers - and so lubricating this will prevent squeaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T12:41:14.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="482" CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:53:51.027" Score="6" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a hot, dry climate (Arizona, if anyone cares). It is very common in the summer for it to get over 110 F (That's 43 C for those of you metric buffs), usually having tens of days a year over that, as well as many more days over 100 F (38C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do differently as a result of living where I live in terms of car maintenance? Is there some particular things which might not do as well that I should keep an eye on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T08:24:20.947" Title="What concerns should I have for having a car in a hot, dry climate?" Tags="|maintenance|heat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:19:52.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tint your windows and put a Sunshade in the windshield when you park. The interior of your car will last longer and not fade out as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your antifreeze at the correct concentration it raises the boiling point of water as well as lowering the freezing point&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep the grill and radiator clean of bugs and other debris for maximum airflow, this will help your engine and your air conditioner.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:19:52.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="447" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:28:52.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Pressure correct, less rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight reduction: You, cargo, and extra accessories. The less weight the better the fuel economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow smooth acceleration, no jack rabbit starts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anticipate stops, let off the accelerator early to start slowing down as opposed to keeping the gas on longer and using the brake harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eliminate unnecessary idling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the engine maintained and in tune&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:28:52.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:04:58.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;what Larry said, plus - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your paint waxed/treated as the UV and heat/sun will burn the finish and the wax off faster.  If you are in an area of the state where the wind blows, the sand will add to that as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park in the shade as much as you can (have a garage or carport?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trend toward use of heavier motor oil (usually there is a listed range for a car in the owners manual), especially in the warmer months&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the battery well maintained - most sealed batteries are OK but there are still some not sealed ones out there - the low humidity will dry it out faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T18:04:58.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:12:17.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike does this every couple of years after storage over winter.  I have found that the float obsorbs some fuel and thus the level overfills.  I have adjusted it some (hard to get right on mine) but the best bet for me was to replace the float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it should NOT drip or leak fuel.  I have not seen any BMW at the shop I worked at leak except as I described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, just to be clear, mine is an R60/6, so a bit older - and it has a rigid foam float as a stock item.  If yours is a BMW it should have a petcock - I make a habit of closing mine after every ride as sometimes heat changes will cause fuel to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't park on the side (ride off kickstand keeps it level) but I have a friend who does sometimes and it will occasionally do a small drop if he does not close the petcock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT NOTE: ensure that this is NOT from a cracked fuel tank. &#xA;You don't say if this is an R series or the F series (looks like an F series from the picture though).  I think there was a recall on the F series tank at one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note the Fuel Injected bikes (GS, Dakar, CS, G650X) have pressurised fuel lines. When you turn the key to the on position, you should hear the fuel pump pressurising the line. Just after you turn the bike off the fuel line will still be under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this leak just during riding or while it is stopped?  Will it leak just after you stop also?  The pressure might last quite some time if that is the case and a small leak might be detected for a bit after you turn off the ignition.  You might need new clamps and a fuel line in that case.  I would recommend having a qualified service tech replace those in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try removal of the seat, looking at the fuel system with the key on to see if you see leaks/fuel pooling there as that might also occur - keep in mind the fuel is pressurized for the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final note: there have been some fuel system recalls on the F series - you can search for those with your specific model number as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ServiceBulletinsFAQ.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ServiceBulletinsFAQ.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastEditorUserId="123" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T18:55:04.707" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T18:55:04.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="487" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:00:00.427" Score="3" ViewCount="10549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am driving a 2004 Chevy Impala. When coming to a stop, I press the brake pedal, and I can feel the choppy vibration on the pedal. It's same regardless of weather. Should I get this checked out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastEditorUserId="22" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:18:09.677" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:44:51.553" Title="Pressing brake pedal during vehicle operation feels &quot;choppy&quot; ?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="486" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:11:04.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes your brake rotors are out of round. You can resurface them as long as they are not too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48udh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;The rotor varies in thickness and as it turns when the brakes are applied causes the car to vibrate, and or pulse the brake petal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not an emergency unless it's shaking the car or steering wheel a lot when you brake. I would put a priority on getting it repaired because it will get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information here &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake#Excessive_lateral_run-out_.28warping.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Excessive lateral run-out (warping)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T04:55:14.453" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T04:55:14.453" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:14:07.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand some on Jay's answer, which has good suggestions on how to remember to get the oil changed in a timely manner...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil gets pretty dark pretty quickly in a car.  At 2,000 miles it's likely to look quite black, and I want to say that it's unlikely to be translucent at even 500 miles.  Though it is usually somewhat different at 2,000 miles than at, say, 5,000 miles, it's really not a case where you can just look at the oil and it not being translucent indicates that you need to replace it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T11:14:07.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:11:29.270" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try auto detailing clay (aka clay bar).  It is a slightly abrasive clay material that is used to remove surface contaminants.  This is the most gentle (non-chemical) solution you can try. Admittedly, it may be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; gentle for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you may have to step up to liquid polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can technically use a fine grained sandpaper on your paint, but you have to polish it afterward and you can easily damage the paint if you aren't careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastEditorUserId="309" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T15:50:04.907" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T15:50:04.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:20:26.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you do anything else, try some goo-gone.  This should remove any paint from the other vehicle, without affecting the paint on your car.  (If you're really concerned about it affecting your paint, you could try it in a small, inconspicuous area, but I've done this on a number of cars with no ill effects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after removing the paint, you can still see marks, then move on to @NoCarrier's suggestions.  Be careful with the Scratch-X, though:  it may not remove the paint, but it will dull it and it'll have to be polished to match the rest of the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T14:20:26.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:40:27.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your owners manual.  If you don't have one, you can probably find a copy online.  You may find that the suggested oil change interval is more than 3000 or 6000 miles - for my Volvo, for example, the recommendation is for 7500 miles (12000 km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to use synthetic oils, the interval may be even higher.  I know people have gone 20,000 miles between oil changes, and a guy named &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum/515640-lubricants-for-the-porsche-928-928s-928s4-gt-and-gts.html&quot;&gt;Doug Hillary&lt;/a&gt; did some testing to verify that the synthetic oil did not degrade over time (I believe the occasional top-up was enough to keep it within spec).  But if you're concerned, you can always take a sample and send it in for testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T14:40:27.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:13:18.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is to not spend too much time on trying to reattach it with spray-on adhesives. I once removed a headliner and then scraped all the loose foam off. Then sprayed and glued it back on. It lasted a few months, if that long. I got another car re-upholstered professionally and it cost less that I thought it would and it was beautiful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:45:39.343" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:45:39.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13029" CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:58:23.300" Score="6" ViewCount="17469" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife bought a Nissan Note second hand and the internal ventilation fan works on the highest setting (3 or 4) but not on the lower settings. We've checked the fuses and all seems fine there. Could it be a problem with the switches inside/behind the knob?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points if you can also tell me how to fix this. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T08:48:06.420" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T08:48:06.420" Title="Why might lower settings of a dashboard fan not work if the highest does?" Tags="|nissan|hvac|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:03:03.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be padded and part of the collision energy management designed into the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is sagging, a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcM4c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sagging headliner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a replacement ready to be installed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4m6o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New headliner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:19:20.033" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:19:20.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:03:03.417" Score="0" Body="The cloth or vinyl covering the inside roof of an Automobile. " OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:19:37.413" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:19:37.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="508" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:17:12.730" Score="29" ViewCount="13797" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been trying to do a lot of research on boost lately because I'm planning on running a moderate turbo setup on my daily/light-duty-autox car in the future. I'm trying to get into the physics of things so that when I do my build, I'm not just slapping parts on and hoping for the best, but instead engineering a motor to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My main question is this. I've been reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://hondaswap.com/turbo-information/static-vs-effective-compression-29102/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and while it's deepened my understanding of compression, it leaves me with this question: I know that engines running a higher static compression ratio require higher octane fuels to prevent detonation, so why do motors with higher &lt;em&gt;effective&lt;/em&gt; compression ratios not seem to require higher octane fuels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually hear about people running turbo setups and simply using regular pump gas and having no trouble, even though the effective compression ratio would be much higher than most naturally aspirated engines. For instance, the setup that I was considering would be a turbocharged Honda d16a6, which has a static compression ratio of 9.1:1, with 10 psi of boost, giving it roughly 15:1 effective compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:37:48.930" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:37:48.930" Title="Static vs. Effective compression: Why does higher effective compression not require higher octane gas?" Tags="|engine|performance|octane|compression|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="505" CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:11:18.320" Score="5" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first car and i recently brought when the mileage was 25,000 on it. Now it is 30,000 and i need to get it serviced. I called Honda showroom and couple of other places and they are charging me around $300+, which seems ridiculously high. What are the things they usually do for a 30,000 mile service and how much is reasonable to pay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="312" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T08:55:07.733" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T15:29:51.740" Title="2005 Honda civic VP 30,000 mile service" Tags="|honda|scheduled-maintenance|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="495" CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:42:18.587" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would check is the blower motor resistor. This device will usually be located near the blower motor under the dash, and will have an electrical connector with 4 to 5 wires coming out of it. It's job is to add more resistance to current flow with each lower speed. It really just 3 resisters wired in series all inside one component. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High (4), usually a seperate circuit that by passes the resistor and has a relay for higher current flow required  in the high setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Med-High (3), goes through resistor one slightly limiting current flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Med-Low (2), goes through resistor one and two limiting current flow a little further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low (1), goes through resistors one two and three limiting current flow the most&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of two or more speeds not working is the resistor, because if resistor two burns out it will affect speeds 1 and 2 but not 3 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a typical wiring Diagram, this one does not use a separate circuit and relay for high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sayV9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green tracing is low, and goes through all three resistors&#xA;The blue tracing is med low, and goes through resistor 2 and 3&#xA;The red tracing is med high, and goes through resistor 3 only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Resistor two is blow it will prevent green and blue circuits from working. The arrow with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/19478/the-many-memes-of-meta/19775#19775&quot;&gt;free hand circle&lt;/a&gt; around it points too resistor two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of a typical blower motor resistor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wu7tK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blower motor resistor&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gq8vl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blower motor resistor 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a typical location&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88M7W.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Typical Location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to do this yourself take pictures along the way and I will update my answer making a tutorial with your pictures. I don't have access to a Nissan Note stateside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there is a small possibility that it's a different problem and there are some additional trouble shooting steps you can take to confirm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T10:32:30.617" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T22:42:18.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-23T00:14:25.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Includes the air ducts, controls, blower motor(s), blend air doors, vacuum and electric controls, heater core, AC evaporator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:19:34.417" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:19:34.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-23T00:14:25.380" Score="0" Body="HVAC - Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T23:19:30.843" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T23:19:30.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2011-03-23T04:35:36.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in your owners manual and it should list the scheduled maintenance recommended for your vehicle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T04:35:36.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="522" CreationDate="2011-03-23T06:33:52.577" Score="16" ViewCount="45957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old 2 stroke mixed gas I need to get rid of.  This could also apply to old fuel removed from a sitting car or any vehicle for that matter.  What is the proper way to dispose of this?  Are recycling centers common?  I think once in the past, I gave some to an auto repair shop and they just put it in their oil/gas burner heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2011-05-14T09:12:21.330" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T00:13:09.813" Title="How to properly dispose of old fuel?" Tags="|fuel-system|recycle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2011-03-23T06:48:19.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 30k service, as performed by a Honda Dealer, would consist of the following things: First and foremost a basic oil change service. This includes oil and filter, adjustment of tire pressures, and an inspection of the underside of the vehicle(suspension and steering, exhaust, etc), the topping off of any fluids, and a check of all front and rear lights. Normally, as part of an oil change service, the air filter would be inspected. This step is overlooked because the air filter is replaced at 30k miles(inm 15k mile intervals). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to pull the wheels off and check the brake system. On the 2005 Civic that would be to visually inspect the front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Some dealer service centers will clean and lube the front and rear brakes, but this is not generally required unless the brakes are squeaking. If you did want to clean and lube the brakes you would clean and lube where the pad and caliper surfaces meet, and where the shoes and backing plate meet in the rear. Also part of the rear clean and lube is an adjustment. Between the two brake shoes you will see an adjuster. Rotate the adjustment wheel until there is a slight drag on the drum. This may require some fiddling to get just right. Remember, too much drag will cause your rear brakes to wear out more quickly and too little will cause poor brake performance in the rear. If your car seems to brake well, I'd recommend omitting this step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last mechanical step is to rotate the tires. Typically on a front wheel drive vehicle the front tires will go to the opposite corner in the rear, and the rear tires will move directly forward to the front axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last step you will want to take is to clear the &quot;maint req'd&quot; light. To do this you hold the odometer reset button and turn the key to the on position. The &quot;maint req'd light will flash several times and then turn off. The light will not clear if your headlights are on. At this point the service is complete. You will want to make note that in 5k miles you will be due for another oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the service center's labor rate is around 100-120 dollars an hour, 300 dollars does not seem terribly high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastEditorUserId="315" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T06:54:28.187" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T06:54:28.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:03:37.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T15:03:37.770" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T15:03:37.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:03:37.770" Score="0" Body="Anti-Lock Brakes, a safety system that allows the driver to maintain control of the car during a panic stop. The system prevents the wheels from locking up." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:31:38.410" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:31:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2011-03-23T15:34:32.793" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;They do.  It's just harder to tell how much.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer is that they do and that effective compression is failing you as an approximation for actual effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about detonation (AKA premature ignition of the fuel-air mixture).  Normally we consider two causes: compression (the change in the space enclosed by the cylinder as the piston moves up and down) and temperature (e.g., measured temperature of the intake air).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, there is only temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's back all the way to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PV = nRT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; is pressure, &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; is volume and &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; is temperature (in degrees Kelvin, remember!) and the rest are interesting constants that aren't germane to this discussion.  Compression causes that &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; value to decrease and &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; to increase.  In an &lt;em&gt;ideal&lt;/em&gt; world, that would be the end of it: the compression of the cylinder would be a 100% efficient process without temperature increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, we live in an &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; rather than an ideal world. The best simple model for what's happening in the engine is that it is a system of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law#Applications_to_thermodynamic_processes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;constant entropy&lt;/a&gt;.  This means that we are restricted by the heat capacity ratio of the gases in the system.  If we use a heat capacity ratio of 1.3 and an example compression ratio of 10:1, we are looking at an approximate doubling in temperature (degrees Kelvin!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, compression makes gases hotter.  Why is this bad, though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way: you have a fixed temperature budget for a certain octane gas.  If &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt; gets higher than &lt;code&gt;T_ignition&lt;/code&gt;, bang.  So, as you point out, you can add an intercooler to the system, reducing the input air temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, you can change the amount that &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; changes.  This increases the amount of temperature increase that your engine can tolerate before detonating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, adding a turbo on the intake air compresses the normal atmospheric pressure to something significantly higher, resulting in a change in those other constants that I previously brushed off (check turbo volumetric efficiency for more information) and increases the temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That eats into my temperature budget.  If I used lower octane gas, that would lower the threshold for detonation and, at boost, I could be looking at engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after all that, what do you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research research research: don't build in a vacuum.  Copy other people's layouts or improve upon them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure your air intake temperature, before and after the turbo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the best gas that you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune the engine computer to keep your engine from blowing up.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On tuning: one thing the ECU can do is add extra fuel to the mixture, thereby cooling the mixture down.  Admittedly, using fuel as a coolant is not conducive to absolute efficiency but shouldn't be an issue when driving around out of the boost.  As always, less right foot = less gas spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above is discussed in Corky Bell's Turbocharging book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0837601606&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maximum Boost&lt;/a&gt; - a very entertaining read for geeky people like myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Following up some time later&lt;/em&gt;: I just noticed the specific question about 9.1 static compression ratio running 10 psi of boost.  As an example, my WRX runs 8:1 at about 13.5 psi so, on the face of it, 9:1 with 10 psi seems achievable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xcceleration.com/cr-boost%20101.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more arguably sensible equations&lt;/a&gt; for effective compression ratio (which, as we noted, is still an approximation of fairly complex thermodynamics):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ECR = sqrt((boost+14.7)/14.7) * CR &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;code&gt;ECR&lt;/code&gt; is the &quot;effective compression ratio&quot; and &lt;code&gt;CR&lt;/code&gt; is the &quot;static compression ratio&quot; (what you started with before adding boost).  &lt;code&gt;boost&lt;/code&gt; is measured in psi (pounds per square inch).  Remember, the goal of this equation is to tell us whether our proposed setup is feasible at all and will it be able to run on gas that I can purchase on the street vs. the racetrack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, using my car as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ECR = sqrt((13.5 + 14.7) / 14.7) * 8 = sqrt(1.92) * 8 = 11.08&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this equation, the implication is that my effective compression ratio is about 11:1 at peak boost.  That's within the bounds of what you could expect to run a normally aspirated motor on with pump gas (93 octane).  And, proof by existence, my car does run on 93 octane just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's look at the setup in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ECR = sqrt((10 + 14.7) / 14.7) * 9.1 = sqrt(1.68) * 9.1 = 11.79&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As cited in the reference, 12:1 is really about as far as you can go with a street car so this setup would still be within those limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, we should note that there is also another ECR equation that wanders around the internet that omits the square root.  There are two problems with that function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, that would result in an ECR for my car of 15:1.  That's a bit ridiculous: I wouldn't even want to start a motor like that with street gas.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECR is an approximation anyway: the real answer to the question of &quot;how much boost can I run?&quot; is derived from critical factors such as intake air temperature and compressor efficiency.  If you're using an approximation, don't use one that one that immediately gives you useless answers (see point 1).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:20:26.933" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:20:26.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="511" CreationDate="2011-03-23T18:05:40.293" Score="11" ViewCount="36793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2003 Windstar was recently totaled in an accident (everybody's ok).  This happened the day after we filled the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we hand over the car to the insurance, we'd like to get the fuel out of the tank to use in our new car.  I tried siphoning the tank with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/fluid-siphon-pump-93290.html&quot;&gt;siphon pump&lt;/a&gt; but I can't seem to get the hose to go all the way into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why this method doesn't work, and/or what workarounds I can use to recover the fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T08:55:12.193" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T15:12:51.427" Title="How do I safely siphon gas from a tank?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2011-03-23T18:51:18.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern vehicles have anti-siphon devices and check-valves in the fuel filler neck.  You may be able to lower the tank and remove the pump/fuel lines.  There's also a good chance that you'll also stir up the crud that will be in the tank in the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T18:51:18.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2011-03-23T18:58:22.910" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a trap for lack of a better word to describe in a lot of filler necks to prevent siphoning of the fuel. On the back side of where you put the fuel in you should see two hoses, one large and one small. Take the small hose off at the filler neck and use that as the entry point to put the hose in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below is a typical fuel filler neck, you can see where the hoses attach, you can pull either of them off, but depending on the fuel level pulling the large on off may spill fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pv5pQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T18:58:22.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2011-03-23T19:34:32.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    $SiteShortName is for mechanics and DIY-enthusiast owners of cars, trucks, and motorcycles.&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions related to the maintenance and repair of motor vehicles and their accessories, internal combustion engines, even in applications other than automotive so long as the question is related to engine or engine accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information you can check &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/scope&quot;&gt;these meta questions&lt;/a&gt; or post your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T03:30:35.530" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T03:30:35.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2011-03-23T19:45:12.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly in the UK there are hundreds of recycling centres that will take oil and fuel, as it is against the law to dispose of it other than through an approved centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T19:45:12.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="517" CreationDate="2011-03-23T19:59:55.143" Score="6" ViewCount="29500" Body="&lt;p&gt;My E46 M3 vibrates moderately at highway speeds (&gt; 60 MPH), but it can can only really be felt through the seat, and not through the steering wheel. My guess is that a wheel is bent (out of round) or bent from side-to-side. Is there any easy way to check this? I can't see anything awry just by looking at the wheels, aside from a little curb rash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much bend is too much? Is it fixable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Jeremy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T10:13:01.950" Title="How to determine if a wheel is bent" Tags="|bmw|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:25:44.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can dispose of used engine oil at any Jiffy Lube for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T00:13:09.813" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T00:13:09.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="518" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:27:02.130" Score="4" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealer diagnosed it and says it got tripped by catalytic converter and rear oxygen sensor. The total estimate was around $2000. The blue book value on his car is around that amount. Is there a way to repair this with less cost and pass inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T21:12:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T04:13:02.790" Title="2000 Nissan Maxima Service engine light" Tags="|engine|mil|emissions|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:28:41.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have a wheel out of balance and it's difficult to determine that without putting the tires on a balancer. One thing you could try would be to jack up the car and put pencil on a stationary object like a brick or a board move the pencil so it almost touches the wheel, spin the tire and look for the rim moving in and out in reference with the pencil. That's really only going to give you a starting point though because if you have movement it could be a bent hub or axle and may or may not be the source of vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture as an example, this is actually a gauge but you can get an idea doing it the way I decribed above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iiTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information can be find &lt;a href=&quot;http://merlin.pvfree.net/e24/?item=36102090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I think it's more likely to be wheel balance than anything else and would try that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T20:33:59.060" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T20:33:59.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="516" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:50:17.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that you are in NC based on your profile. You can obtain a wavier if you spend at least $200 I will list the rest of the requirements at the end of this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am leery that the catalytic converter is bad, the ECM (the cars computer) uses the post cat O2 sensor to determine cat efficiency and if it's bad as they said it could cause the computer to falsely fail the cat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace the O2 sensor first then clear the codes and see if the Cat still fails. Following the rules below the O2 sensor replacement will likely be enough to qualify for the waiver and buy you at least another year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waiver&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to obtain a waiver if your car failed the emissions inspection and the part needed to fix the problem is unavailable. This is documentation provided by DMV License and Theft stating that you have tried in good faith to replace a missing component or part on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must first obtain letters from a dealership, parts store and salvage yard stating the part is no longer manufactured or obtainable. If DMV License and Theft is also unable to locate the part, a waiver allowing your vehicle to pass the emissions test will be issued. On the other hand, if DMV locates the part, the vehicle-owner must comply, and the parts waiver will be denied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you purchased the necessary parts and made the recommended repairs, but the car still fails the emissions inspection a waiver may also be issued. However, the owner/operator must spend the required waiver amount in parts and/or labor in order to bring the vehicle within compliance standards. If the owner/operator can provide appropriate documentation of expenditures, the vehicle may be issued a waiver. Waiver expenditure amounts will not apply to the reconnection of tampered or removed exhaust emissions control devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minimum expenditure of $200.00 is required for model year 1996 and newer vehicles. A recognized repair technician is considered to be someone who is professionally engaged in vehicle repairs or employed by a business whose purpose is vehicle repair or possessing nationally recognized certification for emission-related diagnostics and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Criteria needed to get a waiver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle must pass the safety inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle must have all emissions components appropriate to the make, model, year, series, and engine size properly installed and visually operating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle must fail the initial OBD emissions test although all the emissions components are installed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner must attempt to obtain repairs appropriate to correct the cause of failure and bring the vehicle within compliance standards. All repair receipts must be kept to be used as a part of the vehicle owner's waiver request. These receipts must be itemized, dated and include the name of each part or component.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner must have the repairs performed after the vehicle fails the first emissions test and completed within 45 days of the initial inspection and prior to the final inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner is advised that only those repairs made to correct emissions problems will be counted for a waiver and must bring the vehicle to emissions compliance standards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner must have the catalytic converter replaced if the unleaded fuel restrictor has been tampered or removed. The fuel restrictor must also be repaired or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner is advised that the cost of tampered or removed emissions control components or device, or their cost for reconnection, is not acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle owner is advised that conducting diagnostics of the vehicle is not acceptable unless the recommended work is performed on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle owner is advised that a written Denial of Dealer Warranty Coverage is required from the manufacturer or authorized dealer if the vehicle is still within the statutory age and mileage requirements as set forth in Section 207(b) of the Federal Clean Air Act.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle must fail only the OBD portion of the re-inspection after repairs have been made. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the above regulations have been met, the vehicle and all receipts must be brought to the local License and Theft Bureau for visual inspection. Waivers will normally be issued between 8a.m. and 10a.m. Monday through Friday except on state holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/emissioninspection/waivers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source NC DMV&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T01:39:04.693" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T01:39:04.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:58:56.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bending a wheel actually takes an awful lot of effort, but even changing a tyre requires a wheel to be rebalanced. If it can only be felt through the seat at 60 then it is a very small imbalance, so get your local tyre shop to rebalance both back wheels (guessing it isn't the fronts as then you would feel it through the wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T20:58:56.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="516" CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:13:02.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two links give some diagnostic information on catalytic converters and O2 sensors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11/2005-dodge-ram-easy-way-to-diagnose-code-p0420&quot;&gt;Diagnosing 02 sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/87/what-are-the-tell-tale-signs-of-a-catalytic-converter-that-might-be-going-bad&quot;&gt;Catalytic converter causing performance problems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 02 sensor is working properly and thus properly condemning the catalytic converter, one option is to have an exhaust shop replace just the converter. The factory exhaust pipe with the converter is usually very expensive, but an exhaust shop may be able to cut out the converter and fit in a (much cheaper) aftermarket one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is kind of a duct tape solution, but I think the price point of the car warrants it. However, I have seen some really shoddy exhaust work before. If you do go this route, try to find some reviews or get some recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T04:13:02.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="525" CreationDate="2011-03-24T07:49:11.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1826" Body="&lt;p&gt;when the car is parked on uphill, and I try to move the gear back on to reverse, it becomes extremely difficult. Like you have to put a little effort into it. Once it gets into gear, it makes a loud thump noise....which I don't like. The handbrake pedal is depressed during this time. It was like this the day I bought the car brand new...but didn't think it was too serious. Does this mean I need to add gear oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T13:07:35.810" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T13:07:35.810" Title="when parked on uphill, it's difficult to engage any other gears on my automatic chevy 2004 impala." Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2011-03-24T08:20:31.043" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any oil change place should be able to take it off your hands for a small disposal fee.  You can also try calling your local fire department, they may either be able to take it, or they will know of a licensed disposal site in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T08:20:31.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="481" CreationDate="2011-03-24T08:24:20.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep a close eye on your hoses and seals.  We've had some issues with hoses drying out (we are in the high desert in California) in cars that live outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T08:24:20.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="528" CreationDate="2011-03-24T08:54:17.223" Score="14" ViewCount="117309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Fiat Grande Punto. Recently I was told by the authorized auto workshop that the BCM in my car has failed and needs to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have two questions regarding this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the BCM and what does it do?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They asked me to give them certain code numbers which came with my car manual and are unique to my car to them. They said they needed it to reprogram the BCM. What is the significance of those code numbers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T18:56:01.957" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T04:37:22.993" Title="What is the BCM (Body Control Module) in a car?" Tags="|electrical|bcm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="521" CreationDate="2011-03-24T09:09:13.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weight of your vehicle is putting strain on your parking pawl. Apply your parking brake BEFORE putting the car in park. If the problem persists either your brakes are worn out/ maladjusted or your parking brake cables are stretched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="315" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T09:09:13.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="560" CreationDate="2011-03-24T09:59:26.293" Score="3" ViewCount="15321" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start the engine cold in my '93 Honda Accord, it will rev up to 2000rpm and slowly go down to 800 rpm as the engine warms up (normal behavior), &lt;strong&gt;unless&lt;/strong&gt; I do one of the following during this process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touch my gas pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move my steering wheel (power steering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes without a stimulus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When jumping a friend's car, as he connected the jumper cables to his car, my engine immediately starting doing this:&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The revs will go up to 2000rpm then drop down to 1000rpm and cycle every second! My engine will still warm up and the revs will drop as normal, but they will still cycle to 1000rpm (up and down, up and down...) until the engine is warm (idles at 800rpm). I often get weird looks from people as I'm driving around, since it must sound like I'm the one reving my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car to a mechanic but they said it could be anything going wrong, since the computer is not throwing an error. I'm not sure if this is related, but in the dead of winter when it's &amp;lt;10 F, my temperature gauge will barely go over the cold mark, even after hours on the highway (my interior blowers will pump out some heat). This behavior lessens as the ambient temperature goes above 40 F or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="326" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T14:31:55.007" Title="Uneven idle when my '93 Honda Accord's engine is cold" Tags="|engine|honda|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="529" CreationDate="2011-03-24T12:24:20.070" Score="17" ViewCount="19386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently shopping around for a touch-up pen to repair some very light scratches on my car. I've found out that our local hardware automotive store can mix the exact colour for any vehicle. However, they need the colour code information for my particular car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I obtain the exact colour code? It's a 2010 Honda Jazz (S, 1.2 Petrol), by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="83" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T17:58:07.840" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T15:20:37.627" Title="Where can I find my car's colour code?" Tags="|honda|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2011-03-24T12:41:06.147" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Body Control Module is a computer which controls many things in your car not directly related to the engine. Instead of large wiring looms circuits all over the car all the buttons connect to a single computer which in turn turns on the headlights, open the windows, control the central door locking, etc. =A good example is the VAGCOM system in Volkswagens and Audi's.= see comment)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Body Control Module is almost always specifically programmed to work with a specific car. For example, a BCM of another vehicle will not open the doors when you use your key or remote. Also, when you try to start the engine it checks the number of the key and a number in the Engine Control Unit as a anti-theft mechanism. Your ECU also does this check, but your BCM can do additional checks like locking the doors to prevent the thief from leaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T21:22:40.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:22:40.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="527" CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:02:28.017" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's on a sticker in the drivers door jam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYCS8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/paint-codes/honda.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.expresspaint.com/helpful_tips/color_location_guide.asp#acura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/guide/honda-color-code.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T19:21:28.070" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T19:21:28.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:34:04.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota's Web Site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvEPt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvEPt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T14:31:57.377" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:31:57.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:34:04.363" Score="0" Body="a Japanese automaker which produces vehicles for worldwide use, producing models such as the Camry, Tundra, Prius and Corolla." OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T14:31:57.377" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:31:57.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:36:02.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Founded in 1916 and headquartered in Munich, Germany, BMW had earning exceeding $88.2 Billion in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bmw.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMW official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bmwgroup.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMW Group website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMW on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW (Bayerische Motoren Werke, or Bavarian Motor Works in English) is&#xA;a Germany-based company which currently produces automobiles and&#xA;motorcycles, and produced aircraft engines until 1945.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company was&#xA;founded in 1916 and has its headquarters in Munich, Bavaria. BMW&#xA;produces motor vehicles in Germany, Brazil, China, India, South Africa&#xA;and the United States. In 2015, BMW was the world's twelfth largest&#xA;producer of motor vehicles, with 2,279,503 vehicles produced. The&#xA;Quandt family are long-term shareholders of the company, with the&#xA;remaining stocks owned by public float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automobiles are marketed under&#xA;the brands BMW (with sub-brands BMW M for performance models and BMW i&#xA;for plug-in electric cars), MINI and Rolls-Royce. Motorcycles are&#xA;marketed under the brand BMW Motorrad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company has significant&#xA;motorsport history, especially in touring cars, Formula 1, sports cars&#xA;and the Isle of Man TT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMW Modern Logo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6Mu4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6Mu4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11290" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T14:59:53.827" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T14:59:53.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:36:02.660" Score="0" Body="A luxury German auto &amp; motorcycle maker producing such vehicles as 330i, 540i &amp; x5 " OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:12:53.710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:12:53.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="526" CreationDate="2011-03-24T16:42:35.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you have a bad thermostat and/or a bad coolant temperature sensor. A bad thermostat would prevent the engine from warming up, causing the engine management computer to use a too-high idle speed. Incorrect temperature sensor information could cause the computer to pick the wrong idle speed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the temperature issue is unrelated, in which case you could have a bad idle air control valve (assuming this car has one), which would provide an uneven flow of air and therefore erratic engine speed when stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T16:42:35.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="538" CreationDate="2011-03-25T07:19:06.953" Score="9" ViewCount="2260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious about what problems may arise if clutch is not used when shifting gears. Are the problems similar for both cars and bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="330" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T16:23:30.423" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T05:01:29.967" Title="What problems may occur if clutch is not used?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="536" CreationDate="2011-03-25T07:33:50.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excessive wear on the gears and a complete breakdown of the gearbox will be very likely to occur soon. Also the crankshaft and it's bearings will suffer a beating everytime you shift gears which will cause (fatal) damage to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results will be similar (but definitely not the same) on a bike. If you keep pedaling while shifting gears you'll keep tension on the chain. This will momentarily put excessive sideways forces on the sprockets which will cause bent teeth and broken chain links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must drive a bit when your clutch breaks down, for example on a railroad crossing, you can use emergency propulsion. You leave the car in gear and use the starter to drive the car for a few meters. Park the car at a safe location and call a tow truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T07:33:50.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="536" CreationDate="2011-03-25T10:55:05.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you match revs correctly you should be able to change gear with no ill effects at all. The challenge is of course to match revs. This is pretty easy when accelerating, but when decelerating you'll need to use the accelerator to bump the engine revs up to match. Google for heel-and-toe (this also helps make for faster downshifts when using the clutch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting started into first is tricky though. If your clutch does fail, parking on a down hill can help with this:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T01:21:59.517" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T01:21:59.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="476" CreationDate="2011-03-25T11:11:48.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me also suggest that the backfire issue is related to ignition, not the valves. Check your timing, which you said you did statically, and also check to be sure the plug wires are in the proper place on the distributor. Easy to mess that up and it will cause a major odd firing of the engine.&#xA;the above comments about fluids and tires is also on the money, but it is not relevant if they were outside or in. after 6 years any tire should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="331" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T11:11:48.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="526" CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:24:40.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2nd issue first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold engine &amp;amp; poor cabin heating can only be caused by one thing: a bad thermostat. In this particular car, it comes as part of large plastic housing that also contains the thermostat. This should fix the minor issue of the car not heating properly, but will do nothing to solve the idle issue, which is a more complex problelm to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermostat &amp;amp; housing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rz0ur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idle issue could be caused by many things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant temp sensors reading cold then hot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant Temp Sensors (NOTE: they are different) below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant temp is located under the distributor. It has 2. One with a single red wire and the second with 2 wires green/yellow, blue/yellow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkV8R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFbbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Charge Temp Sensor (ACT) below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tt8s6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible vacuum leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad ECU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure your cooland level is topped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T13:24:40.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="577" CreationDate="2011-03-25T17:19:50.980" Score="3" ViewCount="8902" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light has come on a couple of times, and each time the code was P0300 Random Misfire detected.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.random-misfire.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, one cause could be a bad EGR.  Another symptom of a bad EGR is rough idle or stalling after the engine is warm, which I also experience - it sometimes will not start after a long drive until it is cooler.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how can I check the EGR before spending the money to replace it if the actual problem is, say, the vacuum pressure?  I have a '99 Intrepid, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="300" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T03:46:51.703" Title="How can I test my EGR?" Tags="|troubleshooting|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="597" CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:53:05.160" Score="9" ViewCount="56860" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Subaru WRX has 110000 miles on the odometer and I'm worried about the original equipment starter motor.  Here are the audible symptoms that have me concerned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the winter, I noticed that sometimes on a (very) cold start, turning the key would result in quite a grinding screech.  However, the car would start right up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the weather has gotten warmer, I've noticed that even on a warm day, the starter still makes a low amplitude grinding squeal.  Much harder to hear but it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the things that I am pretty sure aren't problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternator - the voltage appears good on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil - Subaru's are prone to some piston slap and I was afraid I was hearing a low oil condition.  Not so.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery is not new but isn't original.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To date, there haven't been any problems starting the car.  However, I'm naturally concerned, especially considering the expense that we've recently put into the wife's car (!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any of the above sound like a failing starter?  Or should I listen elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T09:53:46.693" Title="What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor?" Tags="|subaru|noise|maintenance|replace|starter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="919" CreationDate="2011-03-25T19:34:28.210" Score="3" ViewCount="1837" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 2002 Subaru Outback (the Legacy body) has approximately 100K miles on the odometer.  Under acceleration, I'm hearing a sound like a possible failing belt tensioner.  It's a very distinct cyclic high-pitched squeak that isn't apparent under idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intent is to try fine-tuning the tension to see if it's just a hair off but, if that doesn't reduce the squeak, I may have to replace it.  What is the procedure for replacing the tensioner pulley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT: some time later - see the comment on Larry's answer - it was a dying belt, not a bad pulley.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T17:52:09.447" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T17:52:09.447" Title="What is the procedure for replacing a belt tensioner pulley on a 2002 Subaru Outback?" Tags="|noise|replace|pulley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="499" CreationDate="2011-03-25T19:43:37.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated before, look at your service manual for a list of what is usually done at the 30k interval.  That being said, 300 bucks doesn't feel that bad of a price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T19:43:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="724" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:23:55.793" Score="7" ViewCount="8275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an early-model (it has 2000 model brakes) 2001 Ford Explorer that demonstrates a noticeable (tactile and somewhat loud) clunk occasionally during turns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems to be much more likely when the turns involve bumps or inclines/declines.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can consistently reproduce the problem by pulling into my driveway at moderate speeds (a 90 degree left turn and a reasonable decline from street level)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can consistently &lt;em&gt;prevent&lt;/em&gt; the sound by slowing down and taking the turn much more gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will have to check my records, but I believe I have had the U-joints replaced about six months ago, due to vibration at highway speeds which was fixed by the replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this clunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T23:19:07.573" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T01:11:59.553" Title="2001 Ford Explorer clunk during turns, especially inclines or bumps" Tags="|ford|noise|un105|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-25T21:35:20.537" Score="4" ViewCount="2556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Renault Clio 2 1.6 16V (French made) and I'm looking for a OBD2 to bluetooth adaptor to read computer's parameters. There are MANY available with all price ranges, but I'm not sure what to pick for my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to use my Android device to pick up the readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: now doing some reseach i found there is also an European standard, EOBD! More puzzled than before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T17:45:10.923" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T22:12:16.893" Title="OBD2 to bluetooth adaptor for 2001 Renault?" Tags="|tools|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2011-03-26T20:06:41.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends specifically on what's wrong with the starter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key but the starter motor gears don't actually turn.  This could actually be due to a weak battery, but if you know the battery has a full charge, then it could be the starter gears actually failing to turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may hear a whining sound, similar to what you would hear of a gear turned in the starter but that didn't actually turn the flywheel.  This could be caused by the gears turning in the starter, but without the starter gear moving into position on the flywheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both of those cases, the entire starter usually needs to be removed.  Most auto parts stores can test the unit independent of the other systems on the car, which would give you an even more accurate diagnosis as to the problem by either confirming or ruling out the starter motor/solenoid as the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that most of the time the starter won't just up and die.  It's generally a slow decline where you'll experience these symptoms occasionally, but the starter will still kick over with a few tries or with the tap of a hammer on the starter.  If you let these symptoms persist, eventually you will have a completely dead starter, and you'll be sitting in a parking lot somewhere waiting for a tow truck or a buddy with some tools, a jack, and a starter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, I would definitely suggest getting it checked out.  Cars talk to you and tell you when they're sick.  It's up to us to listen and take action so we continue moving from points A to B and back to A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4845780_spot-symptoms-of-bad-starter.html&quot;&gt;How to Spot Symptoms of a Bad Starter Motor&lt;/a&gt;, which you may find helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T19:04:36.037" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T19:04:36.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2011-03-26T21:45:22.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when you have a clunking sound when turning, it means one of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power steering fluid is low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alignment is out of whack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy some power steering fluid and pour it into the correct spot. If the problem goes away, you're done. If it doesn't, check the alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T21:45:22.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="553" CreationDate="2011-03-27T08:24:30.447" Score="4" ViewCount="5346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find myself having to apply the break pedal everytime I go down an inclination. It's not too steep but the car seems to gain speed faster and faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other cars I have driven, this was not the case. cars would maintain their speed without much change even without holding the break pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T02:18:29.810" Title="is it normal for my car to accelerate on downhill when no gas is applied." Tags="|speedometer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2011-03-27T08:28:17.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than what has been mentioned, the other part I would check out is your CV Axles.  Check the boots at both ends for cracks or any grease leaking out.  If they start leaking and lose the grease, they can start making continuous noise or show up when making turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they have cracked, the grease can make a mess if it has been driven long on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T08:28:17.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-03-27T08:40:36.423" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;At risk of sounding facetious, yes it is normal. It's due to gravity. The steeper the slope the greater the acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exceptions include: some off road vehicles which use intelligent engine braking for downhill, but even they will only cope up to a certain slope angle, loss of grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T08:40:36.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-03-27T18:49:10.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the gear ratios in your car.  Vehicles that are geared lower will hold their speed going down hills using the concepts of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine braking&lt;/a&gt;, while vehicles geared really high will be more likely to gain speed as a result of little to no engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other cause could be your idle setting.  If your car is set to idle really high, it's going to take off on it's own, without pressing the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T19:01:37.910" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T19:01:37.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-03-28T05:02:07.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This very much depends on the incline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a slight incline, I would expect that the vehicle would still accelerate, but probably not if you are going fast (Over 30 mph, say). If it's more than a 5 degree incline, then you could probably go highway speeds without touching the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself riding the break, as has been suggested, try going into a lower gear, even in an automatic. That should take care of the problem for you, slowing you down without wearing out the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T05:02:07.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2011-03-28T10:13:01.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the vibration go away at a higher speed, like 70 or 75?  If it vibrates at 60 but goes away at 70, it's probably out of balance like Larry said.  If it is still present at any speed, it's probably a bigger issue like bent rim or axle, etc...  It could also be a manufacturing defect in the tire, or an improperly mounted tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fostertire.com/tcm_vbrt.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a good article about diagnosing tire and wheel vibrations&lt;/a&gt;, including matching the high spot on the tire with the wheel, balance, and out-of-round situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly with low-profile tires, as I imagine you have on your M3, the wheels can take a real beating that a higher profile tire would absorb.  It's just made worse by the stiff sidewalls on high performance tires.  A few years ago a friend bought a used car with aftermarket wheels and 35 series tires.  We went for a ride in it and I remarked on the vibration, and it ended up being bent wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T10:13:01.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="563" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:43:04.283" Score="16" ViewCount="88718" Body="&lt;p&gt;What might cause a car with a manual transmission that in 5th gear when given a punch of gas revs to very high rpms &amp;ndash; with no power transferred to the wheels (i.e. the tachometer and speed go out of sync).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For illustration (and I'm making these numbers up), at around 2000 rpm on the tachometer, and going 60km/h &quot;punching&quot; the gas causes the tachometer to hit 4500 rpm yet the speed remains at 60km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect the revs to remain at a constant ratio to the speed, so I'm wondering what might be going wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first suspicion is a problem with the clutch, but I was wondering how I may test this or suggestions as to what else it may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car I'm thinking of in question has only around 27,000 km on it, which seems like a very short lifespan for a clutch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading, appreciate any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:26:26.937" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:26:26.937" Title="Engine revs high 5th gear manual transmission" Tags="|transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2011-03-28T14:47:52.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If no power is transfered at all, the gear box is probably broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any some is transfered (and there are no noisy metallic sounds :), it's probably the clutch. There should'n really be anything else that can slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T14:47:52.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="536" CreationDate="2011-03-28T14:54:47.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;synchro rings&lt;/strong&gt; that match the speed of the gears when you push the stick. Synchro rings are not designed to accelerate/decelare the engine / whole car and will &lt;strong&gt;wear out quickly if you don't use the clucth&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...unless you are a real ninja with the gas pedal and match the gear speeds manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T14:54:47.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:06:44.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A larger battery seems to be less trouble in any situation (forgetting your lights on, biding time in you car with the engine off, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with a 70Ah closed lead battery in my Saab 900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:45:01.430" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:45:01.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-28T18:36:32.387" Score="2" ViewCount="2427" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1995 Camry LE (4 cyl) skidded twice. Luckily I escaped both occasions unhurt and without damage to the car. First time it happened on a freeway when I applied brakes @ 50mph.  I thought it was expected with that speed. The car swirled 180 degrees and stopped in service lane facing opposite direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was driving at only 30mph taking an exit from a freeway when it was raining.  I was further slowing down to turn right. Again the car skidded and swirled almost 180 degrees and luckily got stuck in the mud nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tires are fairly new and treads are ok. Not sure what to check. Otherwise the car is running ok. Any suggestions please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastEditorUserId="12" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T01:24:22.903" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T02:41:28.657" Title="How to solve unexpected skidding in 1995 Toyota Camry" Tags="|brakes|toyota|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="526" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:13:11.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a high mileage '94 Accord that would do the same thing (irratic idle while warming up) in cold weather.  I would just use the gas pedal to keep the revs up until warm when I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), having it cleaned may resolve your issue.  Sounds like there is also a fast idle valve that you can adjust.  Take a look:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1704468&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1704468&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&#xA;-Ryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="352" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T20:13:11.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="559" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:03:47.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an emergency situation, if you don't have ABS (anti-lock brake system), you could use the pump-technique (simulated ABS, albeit at a much slower rate), as you might during wintery conditions. Instead of slamming and holding the brake pedal down, you want to press and depress as rapidly as you can. If you have ABS then you do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; want to use this technique -- instead apply constant pressure on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that in an emergency it's going to be hard to remember to pump the brakes, but doing so will hopefully prevent you from losing too much control where you might spin out or lose control of your steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I'm a little curious as to how you might have spun out at 30 mph. Unless you were intentionally and abruptly over-steering then I might tend to believe that your tires are in poor shape or there was more than just rainwater on the road or on your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tires are wearing thin, try not to drive too fast for conditions. Slow down earlier if you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T21:03:47.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="559" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:14:49.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it sounds like you need to get some practice in a safe location, preferably with a trained expert, at breaking.  There are driver safety classes that you can take which will give you experience at braking at, but not over, the limit of adhesion, and vehicle dynamics such as weight transfer and spin prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, you need to make it second nature that pressing harder on the brakes does not necessarily make you stop faster, and that you can't brake as hard when you're in a turn as you can when going straight.  There is a limit to how much force the tire can withstand before it skids, this is called the limit of adhesion.  This varies depending on the weather, temperature, tire wear, and even from tire to tire on the same car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a tire starts skidding, the force that can be applied drops dramatically.  So once the brakes &quot;lock up&quot;, you are stopping slower than if the tires were not skidding.  Turning also uses some of this force, so if you are turning, some of this force is used up by the turn, and you can't brake as hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These classes and practice sessions will help with making all of this &quot;natural&quot;, something you do automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a technological solution to this: get a car with ABS and stability control and it will do what it can to prevent you from doing the wrong thing.  However, it isn't magic and won't save you if you are following other cars too closely, or otherwise driving too fast for the conditions and your reaction times.  It won't make you stop faster than the car is able in those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:14:49.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:52:13.590" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the clutch is worn out...  You can usually tell by gradually applying the gas in the top gear, probably around 2,500 RPM, and the car should accelerate a little bit, but at some point as you press the gas further and further down, you will feel it release and the revolutions will shoot way up without road speed increasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It basically feels like you have pressed in the clutch while it was accelerating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it happen on a car with only 27,000km on it?  Absolutely...  The first car I had I destroyed the clutch, put a brand new clutch in, and that one was doing the same thing you describe after another 12,000 miles.  It just depends on how the clutch is operated.  One of my current cars (it's now 25 years later) we bought new and just turned over 199,000 miles on the original clutch.  Obviously, I've learned a thing or two since that first car.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:52:13.590" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="559" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:54:11.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing sounds unusual.  In an ideal situation, when you brake, even if you lock up the tires, you're going to continue moving in the same direction unless some outside force acts upon the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To spin a car 180 degrees requires a mechanical malfunction, or an outside force.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the tires:  are they the same on all 4 corners, and are they properly inflated?  Different tires can have different properties, and having mis-matched tires can lead to unpredictable behavior.  Tires with different inflation levels can also behave differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, check the brakes:  are you sure that all 4 corners are working?  You don't mention where you live, but if there's a fresh snowfall, go out to a parking lot or other empty, isolate spot and slam on the brakes from about 20 MPH.  Without ABS, you should be able to lock up all 4 wheels - examine the skid marks and see if all 4 wheels locked up.  If you have disc brakes, you can also check them to see if the surfaces are smooth - a rusty disc is an indication that the brake is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, check the suspension:  bounce each corner of the car &amp;amp; listen for any noises and to make sure that the shocks are working properly (there should be one bounce, and then the motion should stop).  Broken suspension can lead to spinouts - this, I learned the hard way :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubts at all, take it to a mechanic and have it inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no mechanical issues, then the problem is you:  you're doing something that's upsetting the car.  You can try to reproduce the situations in a safe environment to see (and understand) what's causing the situation so you can avoid repeating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've had two close calls, and continuing to drive without understanding and correcting the problem puts yourself and others at risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:54:11.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="559" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:54:28.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I echo others’ recommendations about driving technique. If you apply more braking force than the tires can apply to the road, the tires will lock up and skid. Trying to steer and brake at the same time splits the available traction among competing activities, making a skid more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for mechanical changes you can make: tires with adequate tread are critical (see my comment on your original question). The most effective way to give the car more grip is to buy better tires. All-season &quot;performance&quot; or &quot;grand touring&quot; tires ought to offer more grip than run-of-the-mill &quot;passenger car&quot; tires. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt; has lots of technical articles and is a good place to do research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, even a run-of-the-mill tire should offer adequate grip for moderate braking from 30 mph in the rain. If your braking force really was moderate, you weren't trying to brake and steer at the same time, and you have all-season tires with adequate tread, then something may be mechanically wrong with your car. This car may use a proportioning valve that distributes braking force between the front and the rear. A faulty valve could send too much of your braking effort to the rear wheels, causing them to lock up and spinning the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:54:28.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:18:29.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be various reasons, like speed at which you enter the slope. Probably nothing is wrong with your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user208" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T02:18:29.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:24:30.287" Score="0" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ridden this bike at all? How does it do at 70 MPH freeway speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user208" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:34:34.160" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T20:34:34.160" Title="2011 Honda CBR250r" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|cbr250r|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-03-30T07:24:30.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:35:13.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my introductory bike course on a 2011 CBR250 (which I believe is quite different from the '86-97 models, which I'm not familiar with). It's a great little bike, but I'm not sure it can do 70 MPH. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CBR250 would be ideal in the city. It's small and lightweight, handles beautifully, and I found it quite forgiving as a new rider. It definitely lacked long-haul comfort and highway power, though. Mechanically, it seemed solid but putting it in neutral was a bit of a pain at times because of the way the gear lever caught. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I landed on a Ninja 500R for my first bike (after learning on the CBR250), which was a better choice (in my opinion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that's helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T02:35:13.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:32:43.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only done this once, but I had incredibly good luck with it.  In my case, it was a '86 Subaru GL-10, also turbo.  I'm sure some will apply and some won't...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the sources warranties, some will say they're compression tested and what the different readings were, some will offer warranties, etc...  The engine I got was in extremely good shape, and I had absolutely no problems with it for several years until I sold the car later.  The story, as I was told it, is that emissions in Japan are extremely strict, and basically require a new engine to pass emissions after, say, 40K miles.  I don't know that that's true, but that's the story I've heard as to why you can get good, low-mileage engines from Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know your responsibilities when receiving the engine.  If they are shipping it, are they going to show up at your house with an engine in a crate and require you to unload it?  Can you pick it up at the shipping company's freight yard where they have a forklift?  What vehicle are you going to put it in?  How are you going to get it out when you get it home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My engine came with hoses cut and then taped off.  It looked like a really fast job of removal.  It had all the sensors, full induction system, turbo, and headers on it, even the belts, oil pan, etc...  Mine did not come with the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed all the included sensors and induction/exhaust, and used what was originally on my engine.  This way I knew they were 100% compatible with my computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I replaced all the seals related to the parts I was replacing, and put new hoses on.  I also replaced the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was extremely happy with the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, around a decade later I did a replacement engine for my VW Vanagon, and there weren't really engines from Japan available for it...  I instead found a guy who was well respected in the VW community and bought a rebuilt engine from him, and shipped him my old engine after the swap (to rebuild for someone else).  This guy knew the engine really well, and the cost was around the same as the used engine from Japan.  The engine was basically brand new at that point, but on the other hand it didn't come with a spare turbo and all sorts of sensors, so...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in your situation, I'd probably be looking at having someone rebuild the engine, because then it has the opportunity to do some tweaks to bring the power further up.  The VG30DETT is generally considered to be good for around 400HP before you need to start modifying the engine itself, so this is probably a good excuse to get some of those beefed up parts put in.  But, that's going to push the price up (pretty much, the sky is the limit)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T06:32:43.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:39:06.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to NoCarrier, I answered a similar question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/63/upgrade-to-hid-lights-in-a-jeep-wrangler&quot;&gt;Upgrading a Jeep Wrangler to HID lights&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, those HID lights that &quot;blind you&quot; are the ones done aftermarket and I don't believe they're legal.  If your friend has a factory kit, you will likely notice that the lights have a very strong cut-off point, they really only illuminate the road and don't shine into oncoming traffic.  The cost of doing it right is, from what I've seen, several thousand dollars.  See the other discussions for details of why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T06:39:06.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="572" CreationDate="2011-03-29T15:20:03.173" Score="9" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of having my 1994 Corolla being picked up for recycling.  Currently the car is equipped with relatively unused winter tires with excellent tread.&#xA;Are used winter tires valuable? Should I consider paying the $30 to have someone replace them with the summer tires and look into selling the winters?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can't be sure how many KMs were driven with the tires on, and the rims are moderately rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastEditorUserId="353" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T05:16:27.260" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T08:19:41.767" Title="Are used tires valuable?" Tags="|tires|old-cars|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:12:13.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To determine if the tires are valuable in your area (depending on location the value can vary wildly) call a couple places that buy back used tires and see what the average payment is for them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area used tires cost to buy a used tire is from $25 (USD) and up per tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is going to the recyclers why would it matter if the car had any tires on it at all?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guesstimate would be that if you have to put &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; tires on it before going to the recycler then the costs/return will not work out in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T16:12:13.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:21:24.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can usually put a free ad in a local web site - think kijiji or craigslist - to find out the &quot;value&quot;.  I'm pretty sure that if the tires are useable, the scrap yard will resell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of 4 &quot;almost new&quot; winter tires should be worth something, but you might have to hang on to them until fall.  Not a lot of demand for them at this time of year (in the northern hemisphere, anyways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T16:21:24.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="446" CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:36:02.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know where it snapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happened on my 900, I was able to get at the release cable from under the car - but it took some stretching, and a long pair of pliers.  (It broke right at the catch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T21:07:10.547" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T21:07:10.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:40:24.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_bleeding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_bleeding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="354" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T17:40:24.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:52:39.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs or coil pack issues are probably the most common cause of a random misfire. I would check those items, as they are often related to the symptoms you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a code for EGR, it is unlikely to be the source of your problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a relatively simple system, a single EGR solenoid controls exhaust gas flow from a port on the exhaust manifold to a port on the intake manifold, in response to a signal from the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two common issues with EGR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugging of the intake port &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed solenoid not responding (or responding insufficiently) to ECU signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these failures are monitored by the ECU and should set a code if present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a code, you can't really test for #1. Treatment involves removing upper intake manifold and cleaning the EGR port on the manifold and probably the corresponding passage on the lower intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR valve is usually actuated on startup, so you can locate it and check/feel for movement on startup or you can apply 12v via a jumper and observe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T18:52:39.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-29T20:30:12.510" Score="1" ViewCount="5269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me at what recommended mileage should the timing belt be replaced on a 2004 KIA 4 clylinder engine.  And if you know, is this a job for a pro or can a do it yourself person do it?  thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user358" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T04:10:31.770" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T09:37:38.070" Title="Timing Belt Replacement Schedule on 2004 KIA" Tags="|engine|scheduled-maintenance|kia|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="559" CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:17:22.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All production passenger automobiles (with the exception of sports cars like the Lotus Elise or Honda S2000) are engineering with a large dollop of understeer built in, which means that it should be very hard to accidentally induce oversteer, even under panic situations, unless you do it by chopping the throttle and sawing hard at the wheel in order to get a pendulum effect going and unweight the rear end with weight transfer; or you actually engage the parking brake to intentionally lock up the rear tires with steering lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect a wacked alignment; specifically, significant toe-out in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user360" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T03:17:22.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="578" CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:59:37.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: The service manual shows that the belt is to be replaced at 60,000 miles or 100,000 km. On both the 2.4 and 2.7 liter motors. So you still got some miles to put on your car. Happy motoring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://kiacarsfaq.com/Kia+Optima/2004+Kia+Optima.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kiacarsfaq.com/Kia+Optima/2004+Kia+Optima.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;make sure you replace the timing belt every 50K-60K miles, as they have an 'interference' motor, so if your belt breaks on you, it'll be cheaper to buy an entirely new engine rather than fix your broken one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/kia-optima-2004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://repairpal.com/kia-optima-2004&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest obtaining the actual service manual.  I don't know how accurate this information is as it's not official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T03:59:37.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="571" CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:19:41.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not worth paying someone to do it - as the value of old tyres isn't great, but if you do it yourself you could make a small amount of money from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T08:19:41.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:18:22.703" Score="2" ViewCount="2628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the 10 million steps required to reprogram the keyless entry fob for a 2009 Pontiac Montana SV6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="363" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T05:00:19.533" Title="How to reprogram the key fob for a 2009 Pontiac Montana SV6" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2011-03-30T19:50:34.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW timing chains are engineered for the life of the engine and never need maintenance or replaced.  To prove that point BMW has always performed several long distance tests on its new engines before they are put on the market.  Back in the 90s they took a e34 (5 series) and ran it over 2 million miles, just performing the standard maintenance.  When they took apart that engine everything measured to spec.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy your Bimmer and just make sure to get the regular maintenance performed but no need to worry about the timing chain. Now if you're a e30 guy like myself, you're stuck with the single worst decision (sorry second worst, after hiring Chris Bangle) Bimmer engineers made and that was to go with a 'quieter' rubber band timing belt.  Argghh!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="364" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T21:57:56.860" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T21:57:56.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2216" CreationDate="2011-03-30T21:37:18.450" Score="11" ViewCount="21088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the misfortune of having my 1997 4Runner's rear diff lock up because of a leak and then no gear oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately to add to that the frame and major members are very rusted/rotted.  (I had a new rear end to put in, but would take A LOT of labor) to replace because nothing unbolts and bolts nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is - can I disable the rear end somehow, put it in 4WD and run it as a front wheel drive for awhile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what needs to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume I need to disengage the rear axles from the mangled mess in the rear diff and also disconnect the driveshaft from the mangled mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I think to do those two things requires as much work as swapping out the rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="365" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:55:22.377" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:55:22.377" Title="Can I drive my 4WD 4Runner in front wheel only?" Tags="|toyota|4wd|4runner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="585" CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:25:14.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the vehicle is near the end of its life - I'd try removing the drive shaft from the transmission to the rear diff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  I'm basing this advice on the Top Gear South America special, where they ended up turning a jeep into a front wheel drive vehicle.  In theory, it should work, as long as there aren't a lot of fancy electronics &amp;amp; safety systems to get in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T02:25:14.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="598" CreationDate="2011-03-31T05:39:03.150" Score="6" ViewCount="22310" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I parked my car, and came back a couple of hours later to see a massive oil puddle under my 1994 Corolla. This was the only time I had ever noticed that much of a leak, and I realized it was because my car was parked at roughly a 30-35 degree angle.  Normally its parked on my driveway or at work which are relatively level surfaces, and I have never seen a drop of oil underneath those spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem to cause my oil to leak only while parked on a steep incline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T00:05:32.120" Title="Oil leak when parked on steep incline" Tags="|oil|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="585" CreationDate="2011-03-31T06:30:48.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really question this approach for these reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle wasn't designed to run in 4WD full time.  This may put extra strain on the frontend and wear out your front drivetrain and other components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle wasn't designed for the front-wheel drive to handle all of the force of moving the vehicle.  Again, this may put extra strain on the frontend and prematurely wear out the vehicle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transfer case generally spreads forces between front and rear drivetrains when in 4WD.  It may not be designed for the front to handle 100% of the forces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if you're planning on scrapping the vehicle after this experiment, I'd be interested to hear how it goes.  However, if you ever plan to repair the vehicle, you may discover that not only do you need a new rear end, but also you may discover you need a new frontend, as well as a transfer case and possibly other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, just because the vehicle wasn't designed to be used in this manner doesn't mean it can't take the abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T06:30:48.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-31T14:53:19.410" Score="2" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to retrofit a Mercedes-Benz 308D van from year 1992 (model number 602.316) with cruise control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts would I need to buy and how to proceed installing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly see parts for sale for passenger models, for example W115, W123 - would these be compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="185" LastEditDate="2011-04-13T04:11:20.460" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T20:41:20.680" Title="how to install cruise control (Tempomat) in an Mercedes-Benz 308D from 1992?" Tags="|retrofit|mercedes-benz|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="587" CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:20:40.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your oil pan gasket is probably leaking on one side.  when you're on an incline, the oil is pooling on that side of the oil pan and subsequently leaking out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T16:20:40.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="67" CreationDate="2011-03-31T20:44:19.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has ABS (Anti-Lock brakes) you should ensure that there's no requirement to purge the ABS pump after flushing the old brake fluid out of the system.  Not all cars w/ ABS have this requirement, but you should check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the purge process requires use of a diagnostic scan tool or other proprietary interface to cycle the system which can only be done by the dealer or qualified repair facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T20:44:19.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2011-03-31T20:52:13.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ball Joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clunking you describe is symptom of them being worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a known service item on Exploders.  All ball joints wear/fail eventually, it just seems the Explorer goes through them quicker than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T20:52:13.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="312" CreationDate="2011-03-31T21:30:46.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider getting a LiFePO4 starter battery, for example from A123 cells. It will give much better performance in lower temperatures then lead-acid. It will be several times more expensive, but considering it will last several times more (probably outlive your car - but you can take it with you to your next car), and can be discharged to almost 100% (not totally 100%, don't go below 2V per cell), it can work-out cheaper then lead-acid in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such battery will also be 4-5 times lighter and smaller for similar capacity and cranking power, has no acid and can be mounted in any orientation, and is very safe to charge, no hydrogen explosion risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for cranking power, from such battery you can get about 50C for 10 seconds (50 times more current in A then its Ah capacity), and 30C continuously. From a lead-acid battery you can only get about 5C to 6C cranking power, so if you only care about cranking power, you need only a A123 battery with 5-10 times less capacity to get the same cranking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either buy one, which will be quite expensive, or construct one out of bare 18650 or 26650 cells from China - which is a lot of work, but cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the parameters I quote are for A123, not just any LiFePO4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="185" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T21:37:06.380" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T21:37:06.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:07:09.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A much cheaper option then towing, but which will ensure that nothing gets damaged, is for you just to fix the leak temporarily on the spot with some putty. I've seen cheap putty specifically for the purpose of fixing leaking radiators sold at many gas/petrol filling stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T22:07:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:54:26.893" Score="10" ViewCount="12458" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I bought a used 2001 Suzuki Katana 600 with about 11,000 miles on it. I rode it without any issues for the first month or so. After that I started having occasional issues with starting it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few times button start would not work instantly. I would have to re-try a couple times before the motorbike started up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a couple times button start did not work even after a few attempts. Push starting, however, worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in between these isolated incidents button start would work normally -- that is, at the first attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a couple of days ago, after not having ridden the motorbike for nearly three weeks, I tried starting it up. Button start did not work, even after several attempts, and neither did push start. I checked the voltage across the battery terminals and it read approximately 10.5V. So I bought a trickle charger and hooked it up. Five hours later, still no luck. So I took the battery to a mechanic for a load test and the mechanic said it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the starter motor but I hear it whirring each time I press the button (as opposed to hearing just a clicking sound); it just doesn't start the engine. One thing to note is that if I keep trying the button start the start motor whirrs slower on each attempt. Eventually it grinds to a halt. Then if I let the motorcycle &amp;quot;rest&amp;quot; for a couple of hours and try again, its the same cycle all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else could be wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have dropped off the motorbike with the mechanic but I am new to motorcycles and don't want to be taken for a ride (pun not intended) by the mechanic. At best I would like to do the repairs myself so I can learn more about my motorcycle and save on labor costs but even if I have to pay a mechanic to fix the problem I would like to go in prepared with knowledge of possible problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user369" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T07:24:57.000" Title="2001 Suzuki Katana 600 motorcycle won't start" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2011-04-01T01:04:50.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the voltage was 10.5V that means the battery was completely empty, 0%. You should never let your battery go that low, several such discharges damage it irreversibly. I assume it is a lead-acid battery? Best never let it go below 12V (I mean voltage measured after the battery has been at rest - not powering anything, nor charged - for a few hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discharged your battery that low, 5 hours is nowhere near enough to charge it, it will take at least 24 hours to charge it, if not more. Charge it until the voltage measured on the battery while it is being charged is at least 14.4V, and then a few hours more at that voltage (try to keep it constant, decrease the current if needed). Charge it with a 0.1C current (with current in amperes of 1/10 of the battery capacity in Ah, so for a 45Ah battery that would be 4.5A), or lower. Fast charging with higher amperage only gives surface charge, which will be gone quickly under load. After charging it completely you might try charging it with higher voltage (15.5-16.0V) for a few hours to try to recover a bit of the sulphation damage that you've done with the 10.5V discharge. But do that carefully (no sparks) and don't leave it charging unattended, as explosive hydrogen might be emitted from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that it might be that the starter brushes have worn out - these need to be replaced from time to time. Try hitting the starter with a hammer hard a few times before trying to start - if that helps temporarily (for 1 start), it means that replacing the brushes will fix it permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to borrow a known-good battery, charge it completely, so it reads over 12.5V after a few hours rest, and try to start it with that battery - so you'll know if that is the problem - but I suspect it is. Or brushes. Or probably both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T01:04:50.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:28:37.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond what jmort253 said, and separated out into a specific answer at Bob Cross' suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran into a particular difficult to track down problem which was caused by the clutch in the starter opening up. The starter would wind up and make a screeching sound, but sometimes wouldn't turn the engine over. I was thinking it might be a broken tooth on the flywheel or bad solenoid causing the starter not to engage, but it ended up being the clutch between the starter motor and the starter gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, I was trying to save some money by fixing only the part that was broken, thinking it was the solenoid that wasn't engaging the gear with the flywheel, but I should have followed the parts department recommendation and just bought a whole new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T13:28:37.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="587" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:32:22.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it the car is front wheel drive, being a 90s Toyota? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is only leaking when parked facing uphill, then (logically) the leak must be to the rear of the engine. I would suggest that the driveshaft oil seals (where the shafts leave the gearbox) is a likely suspect. Where is the oil filter mounted? The seals around them can often be suspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the oil is leaking most or all of the time, but is pooling on something under the engine (such as the plastic undertray often fitted to cars of that age), then running off when the car is parked facing uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the best way to tell is by getting dirty! If you have access to jacks and stands, park on solid, level ground and jack the front of the car. Support it properly with stands, then slide underneath and see if you can identify where the oil is coming from...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:32:22.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="372" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:49:52.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend fitting an analogue voltmeter, and potentially an ammeter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltmeter will give you an idea of battery voltage whenthe engine is off, and alternator performance when it is running, and the ammeter will give you an idea of current drain - You can compare this with the rated current of your alternator to know if you're overloading it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I suggest analogue rather than digital meters is that they are easier to read &quot;at a glance&quot;, and so don't distract you while you are driving. Many automotive-specific ones will also have nice convenient red-green bars to highlight the expected range, i.e. 13-14v&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voltmeters should be fitted across the battery terminals, I would generally go with between the switched live feed from the ignition and the main vehicle earth/ground - most workshop manuals will have a wiring diagram to show you which these are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:49:52.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="602" CreationDate="2011-04-01T18:41:23.767" Score="5" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Probe's heater has stopped working and only ever blows cold air. In addition to this, I notice the temperature gauge on the dash display is creeping very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What part (or parts) is likely to be the culprit and how would I best go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T21:44:15.560" Title="Ford Probe '94 heater problem" Tags="|ford|maintenance|heat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:35:20.713" Score="5" ViewCount="2653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to read any fault codes stored in my 1992 Volvo 940's ABS module. I've tried the procedure described in the popular &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/BrakesABS.htm#ABSDiagnosticCodeRetrieval&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;700/900 series FAQ&lt;/a&gt; without success. That procedure involves plugging the car's OBD lead into a numbered port, pushing a button, and reading the code as a series of flashes of an LED in the engine compartment. The linked FAQ instructions have me plug the diagnostic lead into box A, position 3. (Positions 2 and 6 are for the fuel and ignition systems’ onboard diagnostic, the so-called OBD-1.) However, I could get no codes to appear — not even code 1-1-1 for &quot;everything is fine.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other diagnostic lead position available is Box B, position 2. (Every other position is just a blank hole.) Plugging into B-2 yielded a code, but I have no information that confirms whether it's the ABS module or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the procedure for reading the ABS diagnostic codes? Perhaps someone with a copy of the relevant factory service manual (green book)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T04:23:23.403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T18:14:51.650" Title="Reading ABS diagnostic codes on a Volvo 940" Tags="|brakes|volvo|abs|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="600" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:47:32.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater in a water-cooled car relies on coolant from the engine. Lack of heat together with an overheating engine suggest a cooling system problem. I suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the coolant level. If you're lucky, you're just low on coolant. The question then becomes: where did it go? Is there a leak? Are you burning coolant (sometimes seen as white smoke)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty thermostat. Specifically, a stuck-closed thermostat would cause the engine to overheat, but that might not explain the lack of heat inside the cockpit. I think it's typical for the coolant passages between the engine and the heater core to be independent of the engine thermostat; in other words, a failed thermostat doesn't ordinarily interfere with heater function. Anyway, the point is: checking the thermostat is a good idea when a cooling problem like this arises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged heater core and/or radiator and/or coolant hose. The core and radiator can become choked with rust and minerals, especially if the coolant is not changed on schedule or if the wrong mix of water and antifreeze is used, or if non-distilled water is used (or if the radiator or core is old). Hoses are typically too big to clog, but in extreme cases (say, if the coolant level is low) they can become blocked by air bubbles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T19:47:32.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="585" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:42:50.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen an old series 3 Land-Rover used quite successfully in this fashion, however they are a lot more agricultural than a relatively modern Toyota and so are more capable of taking the abuse. A lot of it will be down to the design of the transfer box - in the case of the Land Rover it was a simple mechanical lock, which either drove just the rear axle, or both at the same speed. If the Toyota has a differential transfer box chances are it won't work at all, and if it does it may well ruin the transfer diff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the rear propshaft should be fairly easy, as most 4x4s I've seen have traditional flanged UJs at either end of it. Removing the axle halfshafts may not be so easy though, depending on their design (in Land Rovers they slide out very easily, some other cars I have seen require a hydraulic press to separate them from the hubs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that you can remove the rear diff from the axle, which would make replacing it much easier, but from your description I am guessing that this isn't the case...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the other answers, I'm going to summarise with &quot;yes, it is probably possible, but it is not recommended&quot; - I suspect that the local authorities in your jurisdiction would probably take a dim view of it as well, especially given the state you suggest the rest of the vehicle is in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T20:42:50.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="605" CreationDate="2011-04-02T02:38:25.643" Score="12" ViewCount="15003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own and use a 2005 Chrysler Crossfire SRT-6 as my daily commuter vehicle. I'm not interested in trying to eek out a few extra miles on a tank, I want to keep the vehicle and its engine running as long as possible. I do all the proper maintenance (e.g. change the oil every 3 to 6 months with a synthetic 0W-40W, proper air pressure, change the brakes, wash the exterior once every to one to two weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm primarily concerned with the engine: it's quite expensive to replace, and I don't want to damage it. Is it &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; necessary for me to keep filling it up with premium (octane &gt;91) fuel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user376" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T04:11:13.630" Title="Is high octane fuel a requirement for high-compression engines?" Tags="|fuel-system|performance|chrysler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:47:05.850" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is, the crossfire isn't just high compression, I believe its supercharged as well.  Forced induction motors like octane - the high pressure, high compression, and most importantly high combustion temperatures make you more prone to detonation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are enough electronics in the engine (knock sensor for one) to realize that something is amiss and it will usually pull (retard) engine timing to compensate as a safety measure.  As a result, you will lose horsepower - a significant amount.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it can only reduce timing so much.  If you're running low octane fuel and push the car hard enough, its conceivable that long term damage can still be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bottom line:  manufacturers recommend high octane for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T03:47:05.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:59:58.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those eternal debates that have very few definite answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My view is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Try lower octane gas, if you notice either knocking or decreased performance then you should stick with the higher octane fuel.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try midgrade first, then if everything is good, try regular.  My mother had a Mazda Miata that recommended Midgrade but would run fine on Regular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as engine life goes, I believe the extra 'cleaners' in many premium gases amount to a negligible difference in engine life.  Other maintenance makes a MUCH larger impact than fuel choice (ala regular oil changes, fuel system maintenance, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.media.chrysler.com/dcxms/assets/specs/2005CrossfireSRT6Specs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF article&lt;/a&gt; that says the 2005 Crossfire SRT-6 has a compression ratio of 9.0:1 which I believe must be when the supercharger is NOT running.  Many of my naturally aspirated cars had that compression ratio or higher and ran on Regular fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that sometimes the recommendations by manufacturers (not just automobile makers) are a best-case scenario.  For the absolute best maintenace/performance you should follow their guidelines, but oftentimes 90% of people can't tell any difference between the two maintenance practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a rule of thumb, I put fuel system cleaner through my cars every 5,000 miles to make sure I have clean injectors, fuel pump, et al&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T03:59:58.120" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-02T07:41:15.953" Score="4" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 97 altima has been to the same shop four times for the same problem. It will sputter and smoke( black smoke) and has large loss of power under 3500rpms and dies just about every time you depress the clutch pedal. The idle is very rough just about all the time. When taken to the shop they had replaced the throttle position sensor, the egr valve gasket and the egr valve, the vehicle speed sensor, the distributor and the cap and rotor, the knock sensor, and the spark plugs. Since then the car still acts like it did before it was at the shop. Now it has error codes p0100( mass or Volume air flow A circuit) and 2 p0325( knock sensor circuit (bank 1)). &#xA;Now I've heard that it could be a bad mass air flow sensor..... how do I solve these problems and fix my car so it runs like it should and not like an overgrown golfcart with a horrible idle problem???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T07:32:40.913" Title="97 altima 5spd sputters, has loss of power under 3500rpm, dies when clutch is disengaged" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-02T19:06:36.310" Score="6" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTn0i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1985 Mercury Lynx (Ford Escort) Diesel 4 cylinder.  The device shown in the pictures -- below the starter -- has a hose connecting it to the radiator.  There is another hose that is connected to nothing, and it has a hole in it.  A small drain hose/switch is on the bottom of it was ripped off, and that is leaking oil really bad to the point where the car cannot be a daily driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what this does or what it is called, nor do any of the mechanics around here.  Before anyone works on this, I want to know exactly what this component does so I can be sure not to get ripped off when I take it into the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unplugged it -- it has an electrical plug -- and started the car, and it started smoking out of the tailpipe.  This car never smokes.  What does this thing do?  If you can provide a hyperlink to the part, that would be awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if you need more information, and I will edit this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkeiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T12:37:30.290" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T23:09:51.427" Title="What does this device on a 1985 Mercury Lynx/Ford Export Diesel do?" Tags="|diesel|oil-leak|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="613" CreationDate="2011-04-02T23:51:24.930" Score="5" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add a trailer hitch for extra storage on 2006 Toyota Hybrid Highlander Limited.  I've seen these storage boxes that appear to mount on the hitch and allow access to the rear hatch still when they are opened to the side.  The storage box I will use is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002TWFU52&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;StowAway Max Cargo Carrier with Swingaway Frame&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what kind of hitch should I get?  Should it be a Toyota branded one, or can I go with the less expensive alternatives such as &amp;quot;Curt Manufacturing 13530 Class III Hitch Receiver - Round Tube&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;REESE Part Number: 51155 Pro Series- Round Tube - Class III&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any significant difference between one hitch and another?  What else do I need to get in addition to the hitch?  How hard is it to install?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what Toyota marketing says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who Thinks about Tow Hitches?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are you bought your Toyota truck or SUV for all the things you can do with your Toyota. Whether you're hauling equipment to the construction site or taking a boat to the family's favorite vacation spot, you work hard and play hard. But one thing you probably don't do is spend a lot of time thinking about tow hitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota engineers, however, do spend a lot of time thinking about hitches. That's why every Genuine Toyota hitch features a vehicle-specific design precisely engineered to achieve the maximum tow rating. This is accomplished by taking into account the specific model's frame, engine, transmission size and towing capacity — ultimately providing a hitch that matches the capacity of the entire vehicle, so you can enjoy improved towing [3].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, establishing the departure angle of the hitch and ball mount is critical, because if the angle and distance between the back tires and ball mount are too far apart, the ball mount may scrape the ground while towing on an incline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Toyota, you know you'll get the quality, dependability and reliability that you rely on for proven towing capability, along with that extra touch of personalization to complement your driving needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Genuine Toyota Accessories — further proof that the most reliable accessories are never “one size fits all.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usatoyotaparts.com/stores/pdfs/ToyotaDetailsTowHitch.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;And their pdf brochure is found here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T09:58:56.440" Title="Adding a trailer hitch for extra storage on 2006 Toyota Hybrid Highlander Limited" Tags="|toyota|towing|installation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="620" CreationDate="2011-04-03T22:37:10.240" Score="13" ViewCount="54965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to remove a dealer's sticker from my car. The sticker is on a painted surface. What is the best way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I remove pinstripe decals in the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:17:25.710" Title="How should I remove stickers or pinstripe decals from paint?" Tags="|paint|body|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:23:07.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steamjenny.com/entrylevel/entrylevel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steam Jenny&lt;/a&gt; basically a hot water pressure washer, starting at one edge working my way across the sticker. If you don't have access to that you can use a heat gun or hair drier to heat up the sticker and peal off the sticker starting at one edge keeping it at a 90 degree angle while doing so. You can also use a plastic putty knife or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scraperite.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic razor blade&lt;/a&gt;. Take you time and pull with a steady even pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO6Ra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plastic putty knife image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that works very well is a pinstripe eraser wheel. We use these when we are removing graphics from our emergency vehicles as part of the decommissioning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pxxzi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00063VT0G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Stripe Off Wheel 07498&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTJncZiMd_g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can see a video here of a similar product&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T17:16:20.520" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T17:16:20.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T02:45:11.527" Score="3" ViewCount="4410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have pointers on how to change the disc brake rotors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier 2WD? I've got the calipers and pads off and noted the rotor is scored.  I'd like to just replace the rotors.  The rotors on most other vehicles come off easily when the calipers are removed.  Does not appear to be the case on this Nissan frontier though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user385" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T12:55:38.810" Title="How to Change Brake Rotors on 2000 Nissan Frontier 2WD" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="609" CreationDate="2011-04-04T03:17:08.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine as long as you go with a custom hitch, meaning one designed to bolt directly to your frame. Most of what Toyota marketing says is just that, marketing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what you are planing on using it for almost any hitch would do. I would recommend going with a class three hitch liked you mentioned in the event you ever wanted to pull something with more weight, a class three hitch matches the 3500 lbs towing capacity for your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation is relatively easy and can be installed with basic hand tools in less than an hour. Most of them bolt to preexisting holes in the frame 2 or 3 bolts per side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction sheet for Curt hitch you mentioned is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sitepro12.sitepro.com/masterlibrary/13530/installsheet/CM_13530_INS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and shows detailed instructions on how to mount the hitch they say it takes approximately 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring is simple, get a custom wiring harness that plugs into the factory harness the one pictured below is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.curtmfg.com/index.cfm?event=hitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curt&lt;/a&gt; as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x49d8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T03:17:08.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2011-04-04T03:41:39.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the dust cap in the center of the hub (in the middle of the wheel stubs) remove the cotter pin (replace with new one on installation) remove the nut lock and then the nut. You should be able to pull the whole assembly off (rotor and hub) from the back side you should be able to get to the bolts that hold the rotor on the hub. Install in the reverse order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spindle nut installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the spindle nut to 25 - 29 ft. lbs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin the hub several times to fully seat the bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-tighten the spindle nut to 25 - 29 ft. lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the spindle nut 45 - 60 degrees and install the spindle nut cap and (new) cotter pin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note if you are going to go that far I would defiantly repack the wheel bearings and replace the wheel seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an excellent tutorial at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/Nissan_Frontier_brakes_1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.howstuffinmycarworks.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T18:54:30.310" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T18:54:30.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="630" CreationDate="2011-04-04T04:36:19.167" Score="7" ViewCount="182542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a used 2010 Corolla 3 days ago.  I've only now noticed that when I start the car, there is a squeaking sound coming from the engine. It lasts no more than a second. Sounds like it would be belt related (though my car knowledge is very minimal).  I haven't had the car long enough to figure out if it only happens in the morning, but that's when I've noticed it.  The car has 26,000 kms on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this - is this weather related and normal, i.e. starting up the car on cold/damp april mornings, or is this something I should get fixed at the service centre before it gets worse. I get a free 6 month / 8,000km check up, so if I can wait for that I would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="353" LastEditorUserId="353" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T15:56:21.100" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T01:51:03.867" Title="Cold start squeaking noise in engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:05:03.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a slipping belt, it's a little worn so it slips over the pulleys. That's causing the squeaking noise. It's not a thing that requires immediate replacement unless it gets worse or the squeaking doesn't stop after a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T07:05:03.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:05:51.513" Score="9" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Y2K Triumph Speed Triple that has an excessive appetite for front tyres. It eats two front tyres for each rear tyre. This is the reverse of what it should be. I run the tyres at about 38 PSI and mainly do city commuting - no racing here, no stoppies or even hard riding. The suspension is set up very hard though, I'm not sure if this will have an impact. I use sports-touring tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on why my front tyre wears out quicker than my rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:32:21.303" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T20:32:21.303" Title="Motorcycle chewing through too many front tyres" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|suspension|triumph|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="610" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:16:54.277" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the stickers and the immediate surroundings using a strong solution of car all purpose cleaner and water or car shampoo (without wax!) and water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm the sticker with a hairdryer or a hot air gun to about 30 degrees Celcius.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start peeling of the sticker gently, you might want to use some thing plastic tool like a plastic putty knife of an ATM card or something. Keep using the hairdryer to keep the glue warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the sticker is completely gone, use the all purpose cleaner to remove the glue and dirt left on your car. Do it gently! Unless you want scratches, of course. This will remove any dirt and glue left on your car and is a important step. If you forget this step the borders of the removed sticker will remain visible for weeks or, depending on the paint and the quality of the stickers, for months or even forever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your garden hose to rinse your car, don't use a pressure washer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash your car using the regular 2-bucket method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax the car using a heavy duty wax. (Thanks NoCarrier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="218" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T07:39:01.367" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T07:39:01.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:32:40.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds a lot like a faulty mass airflow sensor.  These are relatively cheap to replace.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check the electrical connector to make sure its attached to the MAF and hasn't somehow worked its way loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the possibility that your MAF might be dirty - &#xA;You can also try cleaning it with this: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000J19XSA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T07:32:40.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T15:51:14.850" Score="4" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 2000 Ford Taurus has had a couple of odd episodes lately. When she starts it up, all of the warning lights on the dash stay on. If she tries to put it in gear, the gearshift moves but the gears won't engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's one of those wonderful intermittent problems that will doubtless fail to show up if I take it to a mechanic. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T16:38:14.477" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T16:38:14.477" Title="2000 Taurus warning lights stay on, car doesn't go into gear" Tags="|taurus|d186|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T16:16:25.517" Score="18" ViewCount="10671" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is an issue I've had off and on for, embarrassingly, at least a year:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On misty or wet mornings, everything starts out fine but, a few minutes into the drive (like clockwork. I even know the lights it will happen at), the Check Engine light will flash for 3 seconds and the car starts to struggle as if it was about to stall if I am going slowly or stopped. Driving again, it goes away. Approach another stoplight, hello car shudder. This goes on until about 10 minutes in once the engine temp hits the perfect 90 in the middle. Boom, problem 'solved'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to know what I should be looking at to fix here. I had previously been told to start the engine while cold late at night in the dark, to look for visible arcing that disappears once the car heats up. Alas, could not find anything. Granted, VWs hide all the important bits, which further complicates things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local VW dealers are scammy, so I'm searching for an out of town one to replace them. That said, I'd love to at least have a clue going in so that I'll be less likely to get ripped off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="327" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T19:17:44.140" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T03:49:18.737" Title="2000 Jetta runs rough, shudders on cold start only on wet days." Tags="|electrical|engine|vw|mil|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="628" CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:46:25.933" Score="1" ViewCount="33223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to repair my wipers, there is no voltage in the wires that connects to the wiper motor.  I checked the fuses and current is passing through them, so they are ok.  I think the Wiper Relay (or wiper control module) went bad, but I do not know where it is located.  Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="391" LastEditorUserId="391" LastEditDate="2011-04-28T13:55:21.403" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T02:16:27.847" Title="Where is the Wiper Relay/Control Module located on a 1994-1998 Ford Mustang???" Tags="|electrical|ford|mustang|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:14:38.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First step, I would take the car to a less annoying shop to ask them to read the OBD code - I would assume that there is one to read if the CEL has been on or flashing.  Almost any shop will read the code for you at for a nominal / free charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to know the information on your own, the code readers are common items on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get that piece of information first before you try anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T18:14:38.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:19:36.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look under the hood for the accessory belt(s) driving the alternator, power steering and water pump.  One or more of those might be a bit loose.  There's a good chance that tightening that belt is quick work with a socket set to tighten the aptly-named belt tensioner pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a friend start the car while you listen under the hood (don't wear loose clothing or jewelry, of course), you might be able to localize the squeal on cold start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that the belt tensioner pulley is tired.  My wife's car had one go bad in the past few months.  That said, she has nearly 100K miles on her car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T18:19:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="622" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:23:10.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the on-board diagnostics code first.  If all the warning lights are on, there is an excellent chance that the engine computer has recognized the error condition.  With that information, you can make an assessment as to the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a code reader or take the car to almost any shop to have them read the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T18:23:10.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="624" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:41:15.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a six wire connector plugged into your wiper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow/Red to wiper control module wiper motor ground &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black/Pink to wiper control module wiper motor switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark Green +12 volt in Accessory and Run&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Chassis Ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark Blue/Orange to wiper control module wiper motor low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White to wiper control module hi input &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no voltage on the Dark Green wire with the ignition switch on then Fuse 2 (30 amp) in the instrument panel fuse box is blown or you have an open connection between the Windshield wiper motor and the fuse panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T18:41:15.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:18:20.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how old it is (&amp;lt;1 year for me) i have always just mixed it with fresh fuel and used it like normal. No problems. Fuel older than a year makes a great grease cutter, it does a great job at loosening up bolts, old parts, and grease and crud off of skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure not to use in enclosed spaces, only recommended to use outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T22:50:47.597" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T22:50:47.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:43:48.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is the serpentine belt. Unless the belt shows obvious wear or fraying or the squealing gets worse it's not an emergency and can likely wait until the service you have scheduled. &lt;strong&gt;However call the dealer where you bought the car today&lt;/strong&gt; and tell them about it now so there is a record it's been doing it since you bought the car. The dealer I worked at would repair this at no charge within 30 days of buying the car, but not everyone does that, some places it's as short as 3 days, others as long as 90. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the year and mileage you mentioned it's likely the car is still under factory warranty however they may deem the belt &quot;normal wear and tear&quot; and not cover it under the factory warranty which is why I recommend calling them today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T21:43:48.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2011-04-05T14:06:59.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've almost certainly got a dodgy sensor somewhere. As Bob Cross says, the best way of locating this is to get the OBD-2 code from the ECU, which should tell you which one it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am surprised that it only starts a few minutes in, most such problems I have come across start almost straight away, then go away once the engine warms up. What is happennig is that water is getting into the sensor, or the wires doing to it, and causing it to report an incorrect warning - Once the engine warms up, the water evaporates, so no more problem. If you can identify the sensor in question (I would guess Airflow, fuel or crank position), you may well find that there is a rubber seal or cover that has perished to allow condensation in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting each suspect sensor and cleaning the contacts with a bit of fine sandpaper may well help too, as chances are the contacts will have corroded under the condesation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T14:06:59.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="638" CreationDate="2011-04-05T20:30:32.163" Score="4" ViewCount="2813" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I bought a 125cc bike, Modenas brand, most likely unknown to you. It is a moped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modenas.com.my/v2motorcycle.asp?id=70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.modenas.com.my/v2motorcycle.asp?id=70&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can go as fast as 110 km/h enough for the city,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I gave it to a family person for a while and nearly destroyed it! Luckily the frame is ok and the bike goes straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He destroyed the exhaust valve, and 1.5 L oil consumption per 2000km! 1L capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I noticed it after 200 km running on low oil about 600 ml were missing, believing that it was serviced and ok. He had removed the air filter, and put a noisy exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to say much but I fixed everything I had the tools to do. Professional technicians told me that there is a problem with the piston/ring/cylinder.. and that it needs to be fixed...&#xA;So I did... Cylinder got larger by 0.5mm ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here are some photos of the old piston... Do you see any problem with this piston?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because i find that is has little problem an cant explain how this condition can cause so serous oil consumption problem?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtXUU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;piston picture 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3760.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3760.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZNvp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;piston picture 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3761.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3761.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kT2p1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;piston picture 3&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3762.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4499990/sites/IMG_3762.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now, after the service it seems to be running well... Oil level seems stable for the first 200 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="395" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:11:47.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:11:47.643" Title="Motorcycle 125cc question about PISTON condition and battery" Tags="|engine|compression|moped|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="635" CreationDate="2011-04-06T00:29:16.880" Score="5" ViewCount="1877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where are the spark plugs in a 1998 Buick Lesabre? Pictures would be helpful as I'm a novice at this type of thing. I'm assuming I need all six because I'm getting a check engine light saying number 6 is misfiring. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T19:45:52.590" Title="Spark Plugs 1998 Buick Lesabre" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="636" CreationDate="2011-04-06T02:49:45.373" Score="8" ViewCount="22649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a low speed spill on my bike leaving the brake lever rather bent. Can I bend it back (roughly) straight or it is likely to just break? Given that it is cast aluminium, I suspect is will fracture and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any experiences out there with this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is doable, how sould it be done? Vice+rubber mallet? Vice+pliers? Anvil+hammer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T03:49:57.693" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T06:39:00.157" Title="Can a motorcycle's brake lever be bent back into shape?" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2011-04-06T03:00:40.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/438/coil-pack-location&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; you found the coil pack, follow the spark plug wires to the other end where you will find the plugs. They are in the side of the head where the exhaust manifold comes out. You should be able to see three of them fairly easily from the front of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back are a little more difficult to get to at. You will need to take both of the &quot;dog bone&quot; engine mounts loose so you can rock the engine toward the front of the car to give you enough room to get to the back side of the engine. You can use tie down strap to pull the engine toward the front and hold it there to give you access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs are circled below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBc6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spark plug location picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dog bone mount is shown below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKNAx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dog bone engine mount picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T03:00:40.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2011-04-06T07:56:31.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that it would break. However i think that buying a new one shouldnt be expensive and is the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="395" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T07:56:31.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="632" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:54:48.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bore has been honed and rings replaced then perhaps the issue is with the valve stems. I once had a CBX250 bike that blew a lot of smoke. It was a 4-stroke, like yours. In the end, it turned out the value stems were leaking oil into the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your bike produce a lot of smoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:54:48.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="632" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:06:53.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make sure I answer correctly let me make sure I understand the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine was using 1.5 L of oil per 2000km, you did the following repairs to the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve job including replacing the exhaust valve.&#xA;Bored the engine 0.5mm over&#xA;New 0.5 mm over piston and rings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the repairs have been made it seems to be fixed. It's running well and has not used any oil after the first 200km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are curious if the piston was the cause of the oil usage because it doesn't look that bad to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual inspection while important won't always tell you if it should have been smoking. It looks like there is deep scoring on the skirt, I would need to feel it to tell for sure. If the machine shop needed to bore the engine 0.5mm (0.20&quot;) over it was most likely worn close to that already or it took that much to get the scratches out of the cylinder wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was that much wear on the engine it most certainly would have been using oil, and visibly smoking. If there is too much play between the two then oil gets past the rings and ends up going out the tail pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T19:06:53.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="640" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:55:33.983" Score="3" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 89 Mazda 626 LX.  The shifter is really lose even when it's in gear.  It shifts fine, no slipping or anything, but when it's in gear I can move it back and forth as if it was in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard is it to fix, and does anyone know what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T21:36:49.617" Title="1989 Mazda 626 - Shifter is loose, what's wrong?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="639" CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:36:49.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the shift linkage is not loose, this is probably caused by a worn shift bushing. A professional mechanic should be able to quickly check this. Replacing the bushing is generally inexpensive, although I do not know Mazdas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T21:36:49.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="679" CreationDate="2011-04-07T00:31:07.030" Score="5" ViewCount="1764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Dodge Neon and don't have a real OBD reader yet.  The other day I started to turn my car on and, before I got to the ignition the speedometer came on with a &quot;p&quot; and a &quot;1684&quot; (the check engine light has been on for a while).  I tried to get it to happen again later.  I'm not sure what I did, but I eventually got it to work once but still can't reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what happened and how it can be done consistently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I would like to know how I can consistently read codes on my speedometer.  I am not specifically asking about P 1684 (although tips are definitely appreciated anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastEditorUserId="341" LastEditDate="2011-04-07T23:00:32.687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T20:28:24.650" Title="How to view error codes on a speedometer with no OBD reader?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="649" CreationDate="2011-04-07T01:32:49.370" Score="23" ViewCount="18251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Piaggio scooter with a single cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I broke down and the engine wouldn't restart. It turned out the spark plug was stuffed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure that doesn't happen again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:45:34.763" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T21:39:49.690" Title="How do I know when to change my spark plug" Tags="|sparkplugs|scheduled-maintenance|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-07T07:25:31.580" Score="5" ViewCount="4744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Nissan Altima sedan. I’ve been told the issues I’m having with my car is from the mass air flow sensor. I was wondering how to clean/repair this sensor and contact points the best? What would be the best way to do this besides replace the sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T13:13:47.257" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T13:13:47.257" Title="How to clean the MAF sensor on a 1997 Nissan Altima?" Tags="|engine|nissan|air-intake|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-07T18:36:18.613" Score="3" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time I put something - as light as 10 pounds in my passenger seat, my seat belt alarm goes off in my 2007 Pontiac Vibe. To avoid the VERY annoying beeping, I usually end up buckling up my backpack. It's a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to make this thing not so sensitive? I don't mind the alarm going off if there's an actual person sitting there, but not just when I put something light next to me. I suppose even disabling it would be okay if that was the only solution - would it be safe just to snip the wire? Or would that cause the alarm to always go off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="405" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-07T19:19:52.070" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:40:36.193" Title="Can I decrease the sensitivity of my seat belt &quot;person detector&quot;?" Tags="|electrical|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="645" CreationDate="2011-04-07T19:19:12.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will just have to resort to fastening the seat-belt for your book bag. Most of the sensors in the passenger seats are part of the OCS (Occupant Classification System) which is used by the airbag system to determine how big the person sitting in the seat is to determine if it should deploy the passenger airbag. For example it shouldn't allow deployment if the occupant is a small adult or a child for instance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea to seat belt it in anyway, anything loose in your vehicle becomes a projectile in the event of a collision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T19:19:12.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2011-04-07T21:30:11.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, code 1684 indicates a loss of power to the powertrain control module.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the risks seems to be corrosion on the battery terminals or cables.  As the easiest way to clear this code is to disconnect the battery (resetting the code and the check engine light at the same time), that would be a good time to check the battery posts for corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a non-critical code but, as always, it's possible that a non-critical code was caused by something more important going progressively more awry.  On that note, you should probably visit a shop with a code reader before disconnecting the battery so that you can find out what in the world caused the check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T21:30:11.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2011-04-07T21:34:04.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Applying Murphy's Law, yes, it will break and, worst, it will break when you most need your brakes. &lt;em&gt;rimshot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, think of what would happen - in a bad situation, you're going to squeeze that lever as hard as you can.  A fatigued part is most likely to fail under stress and the consequences in this case would be literally fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would never drive my car with a suspect brake pedal.  I think you're dealing with a parallel case.  Please get it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T21:34:04.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="642" CreationDate="2011-04-08T04:18:45.077" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your owners manual should tell you how often to replace the spark plugs in addition to that I would inspect the spark plugs every 5000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spark Plug Conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Normal operation will show a light tan or gray color. The gap clearance&#xA;  will be slight with very little&#xA;  deposits on the insulator tip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A plug that indicates replacement will show electrode and ground eroded&#xA;  away. If this condition is general on&#xA;  all plugs in the engine, check for&#xA;  sticking valves, faulty ignition&#xA;  leads, breaker points or weak coil or&#xA;  condenser. These conditions usually&#xA;  mean that the next hotter plug should&#xA;  be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Oil fouling is indicated by oily, black, sludgy deposit on the plug. A&#xA;  hotter plug would be recommended but&#xA;  will not replace a needed overhaul.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Splashed fouling is applied to plugs that have splotchy deposits on&#xA;  the insulator. These deposits have&#xA;  accumulated through misfiring or&#xA;  inefficient operation. Replacement and&#xA;  tuneup would be recommended for proper&#xA;  performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Core bridging or gap bridging is caused by materials of combustion&#xA;  lodging between electrode and the&#xA;  ground, causing the plug to short out.&#xA;  Excessive deposits are most common&#xA;  when oil control is poor or when stop&#xA;  and start operation is prevalent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Overheating of a plug is characterized by a white or yellow&#xA;  glaze, a burned or blistered insulator&#xA;  nose and badly eroded electrodes. This&#xA;  may be caused by faulty thermostat,&#xA;  correcting engine timing, plug heat&#xA;  range too hot or carburetor set too&#xA;  rich.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/FM-26.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOM3R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spark plug chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOM3R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to full size image&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T04:18:45.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1049" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:28:48.677" Score="5" ViewCount="31410" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I safely turn off the front passenger airbag in a Vauxhall (Opel) Zafira MkII (2005-), so that a child seat can be fitted?  This is commonly done with a key in the glove box or switch on dashboard end in other makes of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found and discarded the following ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard existing car seats and buy special expensive Vauxhall seats fitted with airbag transponder (discarded as not available online nor at my local dealer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Persuade your local dealer to disable it electronically.  Some people online seem have succeeded in this, albeit expensively, but apparently most have not, due to &quot;safety concerns&quot; which the mythical seat mentioned in 1. avoids somehow.  (my dealer will not do it, discarded as apparently impossible).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger the airbag (discarded as unsafe and stupid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several apparently untested suggestions to either disconnect or remove the airbag manually (discarded so far as either impractical, ineffective, unsafe, illegal or combination).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any practical suggestions would be very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T05:06:47.397" Title="disable passenger airbag on Vauxhall Zafira" Tags="|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="653" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:19:45.537" Score="5" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother-in-law's car has just failed inspection. One of the items listed was a &quot;cat-back.&quot; Since the bill is astronomical, I was wondering how much of the exhaust system is encompassed in this term and what is the relative ease to change this on a 97 Pontiac sedan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T21:35:06.427" Title="How much of the exhaust is the &quot;cat-back&quot;" Tags="|exhaust|pontiac|inspection|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="225" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:25:24.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem fixed itself. I can't figure out why or how. The only idea I have is either the battery was starting to drop (unlikely as there was no problem cranking) or there was a capacitor starting to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:45:03.400" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:45:03.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2011-04-08T20:40:04.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cat back is just that the exhaust pipe including the muffler from the catalytic converter to the end of the tail pipe. Seems odd to me, not impossible just odd that you would need to replace the entire exhaust system from the cat back to pass inspection. I see from your profile that you are from PA and road salt can deteriorate an exhaust in that time-frame so it actually may be that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not difficult to change unless it's rusted really bad, if that's the case you will want a lift and a torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the &quot;astronomical bill&quot; I would get a second opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T20:40:04.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-08T21:14:13.227" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 328i, and it cannot retain wiper fluid. Is that tank easy to replace? Do I need to be very careful with the intake hose inside the tank (is it especially fragile?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="411" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T00:11:49.963" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T01:02:59.427" Title="Leaking wiper fluid tank, 2000 BMW 328i" Tags="|bmw|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:33:52.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see it being astronomical - that is one of the expected regular replacements here in the UK (where we do get a lot of corrosion due to salt) but it is a quick half hour replacement and it is pretty cheap kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the Pontiac so I don't know whether there is some custom piping in there, but that seems odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T21:33:52.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-09T23:14:16.840" Score="3" ViewCount="6699" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2004 Nissan Quest 3.5SE, and recently the rear motorized hatch has been very weak at trying to open or close.  It gets stuck and needs quite a lot of help to get it opened or closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was taken to the dealer and they replaced the gas lift cylinders because they were leaking, hoping it would help.  But, it's really no better.  I think it was a situation of &quot;well, the cylinders really need to be replaced, and maybe that'll fix it&quot;.  Now their opinion is that the motor needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worse news is that it's $900 and has to come from Japan, and because of the tsunami there it's going to be a few months off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some searching on ebay and was quite surprised to see nothing listed there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the weak lifters stressed the motor or gears, and now either the motor is burned up or the gears are binding up.  There's no grinding noise, so it doesn't seem like broken teeth, it seems more like a burned out motor.  However, when you &quot;help&quot; it open or close, it's really quite hard to move, but I don't know if that's because I'm fighting against the motor or because it's sticking otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that would be the first thing to identify, remove or disconnect the motorized mechanism, and see if the gate opens and closes smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinions on alternate sources for the motor mechanism, the feasibility of rebuilding this assembly, or other options that are cheaper than $900 and a trip to Japan?  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Sean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T20:11:17.780" Title="Options for fixing Nissan Quest rear motorized hatch?" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="658" CreationDate="2011-04-10T11:13:39.123" Score="5" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying a used car, many listed have had &quot;gasket head kit&quot; installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a gasket head kit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should i be wary about buying a car with one installed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the &quot;gasket head kit&quot; need maintenance over and above a vehicle with out one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T15:26:52.293" Title="What is a gasket head kit?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="657" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:26:52.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An installed Gasket Head Kit means that the owner has replaced the gaskets that are needed when replacing the cylinder head. This could be a good thing (ie new parts) or a bad thing (why did they replace it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth asking what the reasons were - standard maintenance, replacement for blown gasket (check for other damage) or non-standard replacement (different spec gaskets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T15:26:52.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="663" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:28:31.400" Score="5" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove the stickers on my visors that explain about the airbags from my car without damaging the visors. What is the best way to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="418" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T21:40:55.170" Title="Remove interior stickers such as airbag deployment warnings from car" Tags="|interior|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:32:21.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I had a clue or had watched this video before I spent over $600 way back in 2003 when my MAF went bad in my 2000 Sentra. The video should speak for itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/vPT8rL0noYg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/vPT8rL0noYg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T21:32:21.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="662" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:02:08.527" Score="17" ViewCount="6748" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to improve the fuel consumption (decrease it) in my van by changing the rear differential ratio? I would like to optimize it for low-speed driving about 40 km/h (25 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true that the rear differential ratio is optimized for a specific speed, and if your most commonly used speed is different, you can decrease your fuel consumption a bit by changing the ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the van:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mercedes-Benz 308D year 1992, model 602.316&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OM601.940 4-cylinder 58 kW (79 hp) 2299 dm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; diesel engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum engine torque: 157 Nm @ 2000..2800 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard rear differential ratio: 4.875&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gears ratios (total drive train ratio in parentheses):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-st gear: 4.695 (total 22.888)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-nd gear: 2.401 (total 11.705)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-rd gear: 1.436 (total 7.000)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-th gear: 1.000 (total 4.875)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-th gear: 0.806 (total 3.929)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that for this engine, the most efficient RPM is the lowest one you can run without the engine struggling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could changing the rear differential ratio have an effect on fuel economy of this van around 30-50 km/h (18-31 mph), and if so should I try decreasing it or increasing, and to what value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="185" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T12:58:33.990" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T04:45:55.953" Title="how to optimize fuel consumption by changing the rear differential ratio?" Tags="|fuel-system|mercedes-benz|rear-differential|drivetrain|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="661" CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:18:46.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that yes, you can change your differential to optimize fuel efficiency.  CAVEAT: it is almost certainly not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a very high level discussion of why there are better ways to achieve the same goal (better fuel efficiency):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about how the air-fuel mixture in the engine is managed: for each revolution of the engine, a unit of air is sucked into the cylinder.  A unit of fuel is added to this air according to the ratio set by the fuel regulator (an engine computer, a carb or functional equivalent).  This combination of air and fuel is then going to be compressed and combusted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that squirt of fuel was your entire fuel consumption: that's the only time that fuel leaves the tank on its way to being ignited.  If you want to manage your fuel consumption, you want to reduce the number of times that injection happens and also keep the amount of each injection down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have two things that you can manage, one of which was the topic of your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gear ratio&lt;/strong&gt;: a high gear ratio allows you to cruise at lower engine revs (your real goal).  This reduces the number of fuel injections per second.  The gear ratio can be changed by modifying the vehicle with a higher final drive but it is significantly more convenient to just select a higher gear.  Barring that, you can also purchase larger diameter tires.  Try driving in 5th gear (an overdrive gear from your notes above): is the engine speed close to your comment of &quot;one you can run without the engine struggling&quot;?  If so, you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle position&lt;/strong&gt;: an open throttle allows more air into the cylinder.  As a result, more fuel is added to preserve the mixture.  The least throttle required to move is almost always the most efficient throttle position.  This is also why leaving the vehicle in gear during decelleration is more efficient that moving to neutral: the vacuum generated will result in even lower fuel consumption than the idle setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practical example&lt;/strong&gt;: in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Gear_%28series_4%29&quot;&gt;Top Gear season 4&lt;/a&gt;, Jeremy Clarkson drives a turbo diesel Audi from London to Edinburgh and back on a single tank of fuel.  That episode summarizes almost everything you need to do as a driver to maximize efficiency.  Some of them are a bit extreme (e.g., never turn the heater on?  I'll pass) but others are practical and applicable (e.g., management of momentum and situational awaareness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T13:18:46.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="659" CreationDate="2011-04-11T21:40:55.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hair dryer to heat them up and carefully use a razor blade to get under the edge to start pulling it. Use alcohol to remove any residual adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is possible that alcohol may damage some fabrics, use cautiously/sparingly at first. Applying alcohol to a rag and using it to wipe is always safer than applying alcohol directly to the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T21:40:55.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="683" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:04:25.030" Score="4" ViewCount="6784" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ignition key for my 2000 Camry has symmetric teeth, and it has always worked when inserted either way. A few months ago the ignition lock started sticking periodically, and I discovered that it sticks when inserted one way, but not the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I assume that key is worn on one side and replace it, or could there be a problem cropping up inside the lock? If it's a key problem, how would you even cut a new key from a worn one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:16:02.683" Title="Ignition key sticking - key problem or lock problem?" Tags="|locks|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:38:35.173" Score="7" ViewCount="19642" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the fuse block diagram, there is not a dedicated fuse for the power windows. Anyone know if the power windows are on another fuse? Front drivers side window will not go down and switch makes no noise when you hit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T00:10:28.553" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T21:32:21.213" Title="2007 Nissan Armada power window fuse location" Tags="|electrical|nissan|power-windows|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="665" CreationDate="2011-04-12T00:09:12.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in the underhood fuse box, it may be a maxi-fuse, or a circuit breaker. However they are not fused separately so if the other windows work it's not the fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause is the motor. One thing you can do is sitting in the car with the dome light on push the window button up and down and see if you notice the dome light get a little dimmer when you push the switch. If so it's defiantly the motor, other than that you will have pull the door panel off for further troubleshooting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T00:09:12.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2011-04-12T00:13:45.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be worth checking to see if the wear pattern looks odd at all. I've heard that if you're wheel is out of alignment or unbalanced it can cause excessive and distinctive tyre wear. See this page for a fairly comprehensive treatment of tyre wear: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having your suspension set up very hard can make you go through front tyres faster, so will doing a lot a heavy breaking, especially if you only use your front brake for slowing. Using a balanced combination of both brakes can help spread the tyre wear between the two tyres, although you would always expect a little more brake force at the front and therefore a little more wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="423" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T00:13:45.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2011-04-12T00:22:13.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What weld process you use is not as important as the geometry of what you intend to make with the welding. Each of the welding processes, while having slight variations, works in basically the same way by generating some heat and melting the metal and then letting it re-cool. Whether you use some form of arc welding or torch welding (or electron beam welding for that matter), matters a lot less than how you treat your weld and how strong the surrounding structure is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may determine what you use may be the material of the frame. If its a steel frame then an oxy torch will be fine, if its aluminium, you'll first find it almost impossible to weld and you should use a MIG or TIG welder to keep the weld pool covered in inert gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the welded patch of metal will be more brittle than the surrounding area because it will harden due to the local heat treatment, try and smooth off the area around the weld afterwards using a grinding wheel or similar to make sure you don't get crack propagating through the weld from any sharp changes in geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's quite a long answer but I would guess an oxy torch would be fine if you know how to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="423" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T00:22:13.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2011-04-12T01:28:56.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound obvious but is there water in the tank? I've been through this a few times with different bikes - the bikes can work for a while until the ratio of water is just to great for the engine to start. If the bike has carburetors, start by draining the bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have had problems with a dead battery. As miernik said, they must be kept at top charge via a trickle charger when not in use. In my case, my last battery lasted barely a year even though I use the bike 2 or 3 times a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T01:28:56.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="664" CreationDate="2011-04-12T04:00:47.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;11 years is pretty old for a key, if you've been using it since the car was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As keys wear, they cause additional wear on the ignition. It's a good idea to use a fresh key to extend the life of your ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I buy a car, I make copies of the keys and use the copies. The originals go somewhere safe.* When the copies start to wear, I make new copies off the original keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the best key you have is already worn, you can get new originals. Go see a locksmith or a dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've heard that burglars will look for car keys, so they can steal cars, too. So you might want to store your spare keys somewhere secure or non-obvious.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T04:00:47.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="664" CreationDate="2011-04-12T08:28:44.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because your key works normally when inserted with a specific side up, I suspect the key will have some wear on one side. Can you closely examine both sides to see if there's any difference between the two sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most of the cars are heaving some sort of anti-theft system with a transponder in the &#xA;key you cannot just replace your key with one from a random locksmith. Please consult your dealership about programming a new key for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember to avoid large keychains attached to your car key. Heavy keychains tend to wear out the barrel of the lock fast and it might even result in bend keys, broken locks, etc. Naturally it's very expensive to repair or replace the lock on your steering column, so I always advise against heavy keychains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T08:28:44.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="665" CreationDate="2011-04-12T08:32:45.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the stuff in the cabin of your car (power windows, radio, etc.) are commonly grouped together on the fuse labeled 'ACC'. This fuse is located in the fusebox under the hood or in a seperate fusebox located inside the cabin. Please consult your manual for the location of the fusebox(es) and a diagram of all the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when one window doesn't work while the others are perfectly fine I suspect there's something wrong with the button or the motor. You can use a multimeter to troubeshoot these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T08:32:45.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="674" CreationDate="2011-04-12T15:07:53.847" Score="3" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;looking to buy my first car, which is a daunting task for someone with little money and even less knowledge of motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Passat-1-8-20-valve-saloon-1997-P-reg-/250803896970?pt=Automobiles_UK&amp;amp;hash=item3a6513c28a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; on ebay, which ticks all my boxes but is cheap because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you rev the engine the oil warning light and beep come on. I am told by a local garage that this is either a sensor or oil pick up pipe needs cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seller claimes it is a cheap fix, but I don't want to just take his work for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T15:58:21.827" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T15:58:21.827" Title="Passat - Oil warning light on engine rev. Expensive fix?" Tags="|engine|oil|vw|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="673" CreationDate="2011-04-12T15:57:10.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, you don't want to take the seller's word for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a serious problem. If it is indeed an &quot;oil pickup pipe&quot; that's dirty, that means oil is not flowing through the engine properly. That means more wear on every moving part in the engine, particularly if the current owner has ignored the problem and continued to drive the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without your own mechanic inspecting the car and diagnosing the problem, you have no way of knowing just what the problem is and therefore how expensive it would be to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T15:57:10.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="676" CreationDate="2011-04-12T17:37:58.560" Score="6" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to do more of my motorcycle maintenance myself, and am wondering what I should be investing in, when it comes to tools/devices. What are the basic tools that I'd need when starting to do more of my own maintenance on my motorcycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T01:14:06.990" Title="What should I look for in a basic motorcycle maintenance toolkit?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2011-04-12T19:08:06.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you buy a 3rd party maintenance manual for your bike (Clymer, Haynes) it will include a list of tools. They usually have a general list and a specific list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go out and buy them all at once. Before you begin a new procedure, read through it carefully. Clean your workspace and gather the tools you will need. Plan a shopping trip for what you're missing. Be prepared for a second (and third!) trip when you realize something else you need. Having a way to get to the tool store without your motorcycle is a must. (I had a second motorcycle. But it was often in pieces, so then there was the third bike...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two questions only you can answer for yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which &lt;strong&gt;tools are you willing to do without&lt;/strong&gt; vs. which helpful-but-not-strictly-necessary tools will you buy? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you can do a lot with an adjustable crescent wrench, but a good set of combination wrenches will be easier to work with and is gentler on the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which tools will you spend extra on to get &lt;strong&gt;high quality&lt;/strong&gt; vs. which tools can be junky. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snap-on vs Harbor Freight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working with a good quality tool is a joy, and having the right tool for the job makes things go more smoothly. But a large toolset is also a burden, as you have to organize, sort through, and maintain all those tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3rd related question is about your threshold for doing work yourself vs. taking it to a pro. Start with something simple, like an oil and filter change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T19:08:06.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1048" CreationDate="2011-04-12T19:18:53.613" Score="5" ViewCount="42096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small leak at the top of my air conditioning condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer, I tried patching it with JB Weld. They do advertise as working with all metals, but I suspect it failed to hold because it doesn't bond well to aluminum. I could get enough refrigerant in to get some cold air, and then the patch would blow. By the third patch, it seems the hole was getting bigger because it blew very easily. (So, I guess it must have had enough hold to pull some more metal out — d'oh.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about patching with a torch? My closest experience is with brazing on brass. Just getting a little aluminum plug welded over the tiny hole shouldn't be too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of torch, flux, and rod would I use? Is there anything in particular to know about condenser tubing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:32:47.633" Title="Patch A/C condenser?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-12T20:20:11.173" Score="24" ViewCount="8372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a manual transmission '08 Honda Fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my daily 17 mile commute to work, there are three long hills that I can coast down, each about a half mile long. Going down these hills, I've done two different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I take it out of gear and let the engine idle around 1000 RPM while I coast down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I take my foot off the gas and just let gravity do the work, leaving it in gear at 2500 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is going on in the transmission and the engine under these two scenarios?&lt;/strong&gt; Do either cause undue wear? Does one save more fuel than another? I am interested in fuel efficiency but I also want my car to last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="429" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T11:08:34.870" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T06:39:29.517" Title="Will engine braking damage my transmission? How can I tell?" Tags="|honda|wear|efficiency|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2011-04-12T20:28:24.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be reproduced by turning the ignition on and off 3 times (somewhat quickly).  ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON.  On the last ON switch, the speedometer should cycle through any error codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a site that documents this.  Different vehicles seem to have different variables: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the site, this should be the case on all (at least somewhat modern) Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth vehicles.  It might be good if somebody with a different brand of vehicle could test it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T20:28:24.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="678" CreationDate="2011-04-12T21:39:16.073" Score="24" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is going on in the transmission&#xA;  and the engine under these two&#xA;  scenarios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coasting: nothing much.  The transmission is effectively disengaged (it's more complicated than that but it's a reasonable approximation).  The engine is idling - burning fuel to keep itself spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine braking: the transmission is engaged and the whole system's net friction (from the wheels, axles, driveshafts, all the way to the moving pistons) is acting as a brake.  The engine is running in a vacuum state (throttle is effectively closed) and the motion of the wheels are helping to keep the engine spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do either cause undue wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  I wouldn't advise engine braking down the hill in a low gear near the redline (as you might run past the rev limiter) but you aren't anywhere near that state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does one save more fuel than another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, engine braking is much more efficient.  I talk about why that is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/661/how-to-optimize-fuel-consumption-by-changing-the-rear-differential-ratio/662#662&quot;&gt;in this similar question&lt;/a&gt; but suffice to say that the free energy provided to the engine from the turning wheels helps a lot.  Put your car in the highest gear available to minimize the drivetrain friction on the way down the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: a half-mile hill is not very long.  You may have trouble detecting the change in fuel economy.  That said, you probably won't have to use the brakes going down the hill with engine braking, so there's a savings on brake pads for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am interested in fuel efficiency but&#xA;  I also want my car to last a long&#xA;  time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both scenarios are well within the designed bounds of the car.  You're not going to notice a longevity increase with either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T21:39:16.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="678" CreationDate="2011-04-12T21:42:30.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what is going on in your scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coasting in neutral:&lt;/strong&gt; The engine is running at idle, the gears in the transmission are disconnected from the drive shafts (the drive shafts being what connect the transmission to the drive wheels, which are the front wheels on your Honda). The engine and transmission are suffering no more wear than they would were the car stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coasting in gear:&lt;/strong&gt; Your foot is off the accelerator, so (assuming your Fit has a gasoline engine) the air supply to the engine is nearly cut off and it is burning little fuel. It &quot;wants&quot; to spin at idle speed (approximately 1000 RPM), but because it is still connected to the transmission by the clutch and because the transmission is in gear it is being forced to turn at a speed that matches the current gear ratio and speed of the car. The engine is acting as a brake in this scenario, which puts slightly more wear on it and the transmission than if it were disconnected by pushing in the clutch pedal or putting the transmission in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coasting in gear will put slightly more wear on the drivetrain, but not a harmful amount. Indeed, sometimes a driver will deliberately rely on the engine braking effect on a long downhill section of road in order to avoid overheating the brakes. The lower the transmission gear the stronger the engine braking effect and the more wear on the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you were up to cruising speed at the top of the hill and therefore in a high-ish gear, coasting down the hill in that same gear won't hurt anything. I think the difference in wear will be negligible. Which is more fuel efficient, I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related point: leaving the clutch disengaged while coasting (that is, keeping the clutch pedal pushed in) will accelerate wear on the &lt;del&gt;clutch&lt;/del&gt; throwout bearing (credit: comment by @Ukko below). If a driver is going to coast, I think marginally less wear is suffered by shifting to neutral then re-engaging the clutch (i.e., releasing the clutch pedal). However, the extra wear may be negligible on current cars; see @Ukko's comment to this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T01:22:54.463" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T01:22:54.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="664" CreationDate="2011-04-12T22:58:48.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem, and the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Alex warns against having too much on your keyring because of wear and tear on the cylinder. So I examined the cylinder, inserting/extracting the key, but that seemed to be in smooth working order. Then I looked at the key again, and I discovered that it had a bit of a twist in it. So I got out the pliers and untwisted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the key works both ways again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T22:58:48.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1256" CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:54:31.383" Score="2" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father-in-law has an Audi A6 and randomly the security system prevents the car from starting, you can open the doors with the remote, but the car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only remedy is to unlock the door with the key, sitting for 10 minutes, and then the alarm resets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what's causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-04-13T02:04:21.900" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T15:05:37.147" Title="Audi 2001 A6 security system preventing car from starting" Tags="|alarm|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="692" CreationDate="2011-04-13T00:36:51.057" Score="7" ViewCount="16992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember when driving a passenger car, when I took my foot off the accelerator pedal completely, but remained in gear, the car would normally continue to move at some low speed, different for each gear, more or less constant for each gear (provided the road is flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I drive a van, and I am surprised it doesn't behave like that. No matter what speed I drive, even if the road is flat, no matter which gear I am in, if I take the foot off the accelerator pedal completely, the van soon comes to a stop, the engine shuts down, and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something wrong with this van? The van in question is a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mercedes-Benz 308D year 1992, model 602.316, curb weight 2035 kg (4486 lb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OM601.940 4-cylinder 58 kW (79 hp) 2299 dm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; diesel engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for such vans to behave like this? Can something be regulated to make it behave like the petrol/gas passenger car I drove before, which continued moving at a constant slow speed when I took the foot off the accelerator pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T03:08:41.260" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T19:25:37.553" Title="does a car normally continue moving at a constant speed when in gear and the foot is taken off the accelerator pedal?" Tags="|engine|manual-transmission|mercedes-benz|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="688" CreationDate="2011-04-13T05:27:08.857" Score="12" ViewCount="12776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently heard an urban legend-like story about a guy in a developing country who decided engine oil was too expensive and so used some vegetable oil instead. The story says the car ran for some time and then it's engine got broken and required complete overhaul so that guy wasted much more than what he saved on oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a car owner, so I'm really curious - what's the worst thing that can typically happen if some unsuitable oil is used instead of engine oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:13:23.380" Title="What happens if unsuitable oil is used in a vehicle engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2011-04-13T07:17:41.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worst thing that can happen is that you can destroy your vehicle.  Your vehicle is designed to use some very specific lubrication, and using something other than what's specified can be detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lubricant cannot withstand high temperatures, you could gunk up your engine and require a rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T07:17:41.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:00:29.913" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many things can (and most certainly will) happen, such as: Engine seizure, pistons stuck in cylinders, broken crankshaft, broken conrods (causing holes in the engine block), damaged camshafts, worn out bearings, etc. So, always use the appropriate oil if you care about your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T02:24:51.627" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T02:24:51.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T09:03:16.450" Score="11" ViewCount="93865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently started shopping for first car, so want to know as much as possible when going into a sale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car I looked at recently has a brown dirty colour in the power steering reservoir, but the stuff I put in my fathers car recently was pink. Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T14:43:12.577" Title="What colour should power steering fluid be?" Tags="|engine|power-steering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:52:25.167" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering fluids, like most, vary in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, mine is clear. Brown sounds like an unusual color to manufacture, but a very deep reservoir of clear or slightly dirty fluid might look brown. Or, they might have mixed two different brands of fluid, for example if it was topped off at an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try sticking a clean rod into the reservoir. You should see a few inches deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's dirty, the seals may be worn. If it ever needed topping off, there may be a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:52:25.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:59:39.290" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil in the crankshaft is in contact with air and gasoline fumes. If you used an oil with an ignition point as low as the engine temperature, it would probably start a fire in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how vigorous the fire would be (that likely depends on the air supply, which probably varies between engines), but it would eventually deplete the oil, cover the crankshaft in residue, and destroy the headgasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a lot of kinds of vegetable oil, including standard motor oil which comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;castor beans&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastEditorUserId="428" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T02:14:37.167" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T02:14:37.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="685" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:59:42.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the listed stats make it pretty clear: you are driving a heavy van with a fairly low power engine.  More importantly, it's likely that you have a low torque engine which is critical to keep the vehicle rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're used to in the passenger car is the same as what happens in the van, just to a lesser degree.  In your passenger car, you were witnessing the engine idler trying to keep the engine from dropping below a target RPM value.  In your passenger car, there was sufficient low end torque to overcome the aerodynamic and rolling resistances of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, in the van, you have less power available and, likely, a much heavier and higher drag vehicle.  The engine idler is not able to keep the vehicle moving without your input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are three things to try in order to ensure that this isn't a different problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the van idle smoothly with the transmission disengaged?  If it stalled immediately even out of gear, you might have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you try idling down a shallow hill in the lowest possible gear?  If you take some of the rolling resistance out of the equation, your engine idler should be able to pull you along.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are your tire pressures to spec?  If your tires are significantly low, that greatly increases your rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:59:42.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="685" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:10:30.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine is calibrated to idle at a low speed when the accelerator pedal is released. Otherwise, you would need to keep a foot on the gas while stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in gear, most cars will continue to feed in a little gas, comparable to the amount needed to idle. This results in the forward creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the force stopping the car exceeds the force accelerating the car, it will slow down. If the clutch is engaged, the engine speed will slow proportionally with the car speed. If the engine speed is too slow, it will stall, often with a sudden jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have stalled the van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automatic transmission should never allow a stall. A manual transmission is very easy to stall, and you would probably know this already as it's part of learning to drive stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, most likely, you have a faulty automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T16:10:30.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:18:01.453" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I may not be correct, have you tried opening your hood and using a spray bottle of water on your spark plug wires? Lightly mist around where the wires connect on both ends of the wires, and maybe a few squirts around on the wires themselves. If the vehicle stutters, it may just be that the wires need to be replaced...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T16:18:01.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:15:45.473" Score="5" ViewCount="2797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ford Taurus Station Wagon, and the ebrake light stays on when the ebrake is disengaged, should I be concerned? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried tramping down on the ebrake peddle really hard and then disengaging the ebrake, but when I pulled my hand back from the release, I noticed that my hand was covered in a mud-like substance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean anything too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. It was raining at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:16:12.320" Title="The ebrake light in my car stays on when the ebrake is disengaged, should I be concerned?" Tags="|ford|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:01:50.497" Score="6" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to convert a Ford Escort to an Electric Vehicle (EV). I would like to have a 40-60 mile cruising range and would not need to go faster than 55 MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend a conversion kit (or an electric engine)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It is a manual transmission. My budget is $3500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="437" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T16:26:36.243" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T03:26:07.337" Title="How to convert a gasoline powered vehicle to all electric" Tags="|electric-vehicle|conversion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-07-02T14:10:27.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="695" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:16:12.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars use the same light to let you know there is a problem with the brakes, or the fluid level. While watching the light push down and release the emergency brake see if you see the light flicker. If you do it's not the emergency brake that is turning the light on, if not check the switch on the emergency brake usually on the e-brake handle or pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things that can turn on the brake warning light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid level, check the level.&#xA;Brake proportional valve usually set off by a leaking brake line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:16:12.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="678" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:36:42.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coasting is the same as letting the engine idle and burns up fuel. Letting the car in gear on the other hand, uses no fuel at all because your electronic injection system monitors engine load and knows that in such a situation no power is needed and cuts of fuel immediately, turning your engine to an air pump for all practical purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So letting the car in gear is definitely better because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't use any fuel at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't use the brakes to keep your speed in check. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:36:42.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="696" CreationDate="2011-04-13T22:03:45.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e-volks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.e-volks.com/&lt;/a&gt; makes a generic conversion kit for cars up to 3500 pounds with a manual transmission. It would require machining a conversion plate and shaft coupler, but aside from that installation seems straightforward. Other concerns, however, are finding replacements for the A/C, heater, and vacuum brake-boosting systems, as the electric motor isn't configured to power them like a gasoline engine could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T22:03:45.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="696" CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:06:56.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The biggest issue with electric vehicles is weight.&lt;/strong&gt; Accelerating and hill climbing both take energy in proportion to weight. Batteries are really heavy; you end up with a lot of capacity just to haul around your capacity. Batteries are also expensive, tricky to charge correctly, and have a limited lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why the electric and hybrid production cars go to such great lengths to reduce weight (both in the batteries and in the chassis) and to use really expensive batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cheat the game by starting with a lightweight vehicle. The less your chassis weighs, the less battery you need to power it, so the less battery you need to haul your batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your real goal isn't to get a car to your destination, it's to get yourself there (most of the time; sometimes you have passengers or cargo.) Your body weight is a fraction of the vehicle's weight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the best you can do here is an electric bicycle. The base weight is minimal compared to your body weight, so now all your energy is going to your main goal: getting &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of converting a whole car to electric, consider converting a bicycle and using it for your shorter trips. You may be able to get 80% of the benefit for 20% of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T00:06:56.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="654" CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:04:13.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tank is not hard at all to replace, and if the hose does not appear to be dry-rotted it should be easy to removed. I recommend replacing the grommet for the fluid pump as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T02:04:13.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="702" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="703" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" Score="0" Body="Electric Vehicle, a vehicle powered solely by electricity. " OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T04:04:45.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="706" CreationDate="2011-04-14T07:59:29.577" Score="5" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I want to cut a hole in the car's front left fender, to fit a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_snorkel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;snorkel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to prevent rusting on the exposed metal on the edge of the cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T11:59:46.433" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T11:59:46.433" Title="What is the best way to prevent rust when cutting in your car's body?" Tags="|rust|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="705" CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:35:39.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sand down the paint around the hole, apply a few layers of zinc spray followed by a few layers of new paint (with primer, if necessary) with 1 or 2 layers of clearcoat on top. Make sure you cover the edges well and check the edge regularly to see if any rust occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you wait long enough between each layer for optimal protection, check the label for detailed instructions. Don't think one layer of each is enough! Minor damages, like scratches, will go through the thin layers and the metal starts rusting when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="218" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T08:46:33.553" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T08:46:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="731" CreationDate="2011-04-14T10:29:58.740" Score="6" ViewCount="1048" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an engine which is a bit underpowered when idling, it can not even keep the car moving on a flat road when in gear and idling at 700..800 RPM - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/685/does-a-car-normally-continue-moving-at-a-constant-speed-when-in-gear-and-the-foot&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to improve its torque at low RPMs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a list of things to check, each of which can help a tiny bit, and maybe together they help enough. For example things like cleaning/changing the air filter? What maintenance/repair can be done to the engine itself (besides changing oil) that might improve the torque at low RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine in question is an old Mercedes-Benz OM601.940 4-cylinder 58 kW (79 hp) 2299 dm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; diesel engine from year 1992. It's not a turbodiesel! - it's a classic plain naturally-aspirated diesel engine (neither turbocharged nor supercharged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for a way to make a huge improvement, just a checklist of maintenance things which if not done can cause the engine deliver less torque then when it was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T09:26:25.130" Title="engine underpowered in idle - what can be done to improve a diesel engine power at low RPM just a bit?" Tags="|engine|mercedes-benz|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-14T11:51:03.290" Score="11" ViewCount="1048" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a Mercedes-Benz 308D van, year 1992, model 602.316. Pre-OBD, no electronics of any sort, everything is purely mechanical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to retrofit a system which would measure the precise amount of fuel injected into the engine in real time, to be able to feed the data into my Arduino and log it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is an OM601.940 - a classic plain naturally-aspirated diesel engine (neither turbocharged nor supercharged). Fuel injection is indirect via a prechamber arrangement. The injection pump is a mechanical fuel injection unit with a 5150 &amp;plusmn;50 RPM mechanical governor, automatic altitude compensation, and a 'load sensing' automatic idle speed control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I make a device to precisely (sort of &amp;plusmn;1%) measure the amount of fuel going into the engine in each injection and feed the data in real time to an Arduino micro-controller board to be processed there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="185" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T11:57:30.353" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T05:03:03.653" Title="how can I measure the amount of fuel injected into a diesel engine in real time in a purely mechanic pre-OBD vehicle?" Tags="|fuel-system|mercedes-benz|retrofit|sensor|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="708" CreationDate="2011-04-14T16:15:05.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the injectors are fired electrically(which they most likely are), you could wire in a voltage-switch to the injectors, so that it is closed when the injector is fired. This would allow you to measure the time spent open, and do a little math based on the flow-rate of the injector to get a calculated measurement of the fuel injected into the system. If they're fired mechanically, you could try to make some kind of sensor to read the state of the mechanical system, although that might be a little more interesting/complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T16:15:05.930" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:23:59.463" Score="1" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left my car in a driveway for a year. I read that I shouldn't try to jump it because the battery might explode. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to get my car back and running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 95 honda accord and was in great condition before I left it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T01:14:45.507" Title="How to start a car which was unused for a year?" Tags="|honda|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-04-16T01:17:18.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="712" CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:43:35.273" Score="11" ViewCount="99666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Mazda B2300 pickup that's started making a grinding sound whenever I come to a stop. Braking at a high speed doesn't make any noise, but once I get under 25-30 MPH, the grinding sound gets progressively worse until the truck comes to a stop. What's the most probable cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the front brake pads on Saturday and discovered that one of them had worn completely down to the backing. I had to replace the rotor as well, since there was severe wear on the mating surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="446" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T14:07:32.157" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T20:38:20.183" Title="Brakes make grinding noise during stops at low speeds" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2011-04-15T16:09:56.147" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the possibility that the brakes make the noise at all speeds but that higher speeds mask it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is worn pads/shoes. You should check their remaining thickness against the manufacturer's recommended minimum. (Look in a repair manual if you have one, or search the Web.) Check the thickness of the brake rotors, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has been left to sit for a few days, corrosion on the brake rotors can cause brake noise until it is scraped off by the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some brake pads, particularly metallic or semi-metallic ones, it is normal to hear a mild grinding noise when braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T16:09:56.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="723" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:16:40.833" Score="3" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an '85 Corvette, and the steering wheel is really beat up so I'm looking to replace it with a more modern and sporty wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking to find out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a safe repair to do myself? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got basic sockets, wrenches, etc but what tools will I need, anything specific or unusual? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long should I expect this to take (roughly)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anecdotes from your experience replacing steering wheels?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="448" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T12:10:40.513" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T12:10:40.513" Title="Steering Wheel Replacement on a 25 year old car" Tags="|chevrolet|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="710" CreationDate="2011-04-16T01:05:35.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that it would explode, but a discharged battery will take a lot of driving to recharge to be able to start the car next time. So it would be best if you take out the battery, and connect it to a charger plugged into a mains outlet. The charger should have a maximum current in Amperes of about 1/10 of the Ah capacity of the battery (so for a 45Ah battery a 4A charger should be fine). Lower current is OK. Keep it plugged in charging for about 24 hours (more if the charger has lower current then 1/10 of Ah capacity of the battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a voltmeter, you can measure the voltage on the battery terminals while charging - charge it until it is at least 14.4V, and then 6 hours more. Put the battery back into the car - it should start fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also read this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T01:05:35.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2011-04-16T07:39:53.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I could see it better, but it could be this Air Pump...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQMercuryQQLynxQQA1_CardoneQQAir_PumpQQ19851987QQA132418.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQMercuryQQLynxQQA1_CardoneQQAir_PumpQQ19851987QQA132418.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-04-16T07:46:33.240" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T07:46:33.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="713" CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:28:09.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as there's no airbag, and no other electrical connections (cruise control, radio, etc) then it should be pretty easy to change as long as you get a replacement designed for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not have a large-enough socket to get the nut off, but there shouldn't be any other special tools required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed out a few steering wheels in the past (but never on a Corvette) and don't think it's ever taken me more than 15-30 minutes.  Make sure you tighten the nut properly - there's nothing like a steering wheel coming off in your hands while driving down the highway to induce a sudden panic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T18:28:09.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="719" CreationDate="2011-04-16T23:27:04.563" Score="6" ViewCount="21256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every time I switch into the second gear, a quite loud crackle sound is heard shortly. It only happens when switching into the second gear, other gears are fine. I depress the clutch fully of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a Mercedes-Benz 308D, a T1 van, year 1992, model 602.316&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission is a 5-gear manual gearbox - type G1/18-5/4,69 (some sources describe it as G1/18-5/4.7) model 711.113.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it something to worry a lot about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T12:35:43.140" Title="unusual noise when switching into the second gear - other gears are fine" Tags="|transmission|mercedes-benz|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1021" CreationDate="2011-04-16T23:57:33.207" Score="42" ViewCount="640616" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly go wrong if I use a (4 times cheaper) DOT3 brake fluid instead of the DOT4 which manufacturer recommends (but allows adding &quot;some&quot; DOT3 occasionally)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen if I just use only DOT3? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T11:52:00.533" Title="what is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|dot3|dot4|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="717" CreationDate="2011-04-17T04:27:25.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this could be related to one if the gearbox synchronizers (take a look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Synchronized_transmission&quot;&gt;this wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;) to see what I mean, and the one that's failing is the one for first-second shifts, as you describe the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T04:27:25.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2011-04-17T05:30:30.607" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOT4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making the fluid less likely to boil. Using cheaper, lower-grade fluid increases the chances of your brakes failing in situations where they build up lots of heat, e.g., driving down a mountain on a twisty road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible_pg2.html&quot;&gt;http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible_pg2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T05:30:30.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="717" CreationDate="2011-04-17T20:11:43.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Eugeio in that it sounds like a synchro. Have you changed the rpm point that your shift or hauling a heaver load recently then usual? In my truck if i shift around 2500-3000 RPMs with a decent load behind it the gears will grind a little bit. So if i shift before that point then i dont hear anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T20:11:43.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2011-04-17T22:59:51.317" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people realize that brakes work by turning kinetic energy into heat. The brake rotors and pads get very hot, this heat is transferred to the brake fluid as well, if the brake fluid gets too hot and boils it effectively puts air in the lines and will lead to brake failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put DOT 4 in place of Dot 3 but not the other way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note DOT 5 is completely different and is silicone based, it is not compatible with DOT 3 and 4 systems &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T22:59:51.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="713" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:56:40.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific thing to watch out for is the splines on the steering column. The way most aftermarket wheels I have seen work is that the wheel has 6-12 small socket-head bolts in the centre that attach it to a mounting boss, which is splined to fit onto the column. The wheel manufacturers then generally sell different bosses to suit different makes of car - I doubt you'd find any difficulty getting one for a Corvette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very careful if the existing wheel has an airbag, it doesn't take a lot to set them off, and you don't want it exploding in your face! Other than that, as long as you've got a suitable wheel with a compatible mount, and you make sure it is done up properly, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you remove the old wheel, get your wheel alignment done properly, then park the car so that the wheel is exactly central (this is much easier if your steering wheel locks centrally), so that your turn signals work correctly with the new wheel. Unbolt the old wheel using a suitable large socket, remove and fit the new one at the same orientation, then refit the nut and tighten to the book torque figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T10:46:59.693" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T10:46:59.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:49:31.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon examination it became immediately obvious what the issue was; the front passenger sway bar link had snapped off at the top, losing its head and both top bushings.  The clunk was presumably caused by the remnants of the sway bar link (still attached to the lower control arm) impacting the sway bar during turns with bumps or inclines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K7275&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;replacement sway bar link&lt;/a&gt; solved the issue completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T15:49:31.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="894" CreationDate="2011-04-19T01:36:23.313" Score="6" ViewCount="4180" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the weather first starting getting warm last month, I turned on my A/C and it didn't work. The air coming out of the vents was warm and humid. A few days later it started working just fine and has worked fine ever since. I noticed that it has been hotter ever since it started working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem in previous years. Sometimes it will work fine and sometimes it will not. Does anyone have ideas of what could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="455" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T19:58:32.503" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T22:22:20.930" Title="What's wrong with my intermittent air conditioner?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="713" CreationDate="2011-04-19T03:29:06.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if your local Auto Parts store rents a steering wheel puller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ever done one myself, but I've heard stories of people smacking themselves in the face when trying to pull the steering wheel off by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Murry's, etc often rent tools such as these and often only cost you money if you don't return it within X days to get your deposit back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T03:29:06.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="766" CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:52:05.913" Score="3" ViewCount="3983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an occasionally stuttering 2006 VW Golf (Mk4) with 160k miles that I believe is caused by a partially blocked fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there multiple fuel filters (i.e.- one in the fuel tank and one in the engine compartment) or a single fuel filter and where are they located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It has the non-turbo 2.0L 4 cylinder (BEV) engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T11:57:10.057" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T01:00:19.560" Title="Where is the fuel filter(s) located on a 2006 VW Golf?" Tags="|vw|golf|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:49:49.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as it is clean and just old, put it in your nearly full car tank. A small amount of 2-cycle oil will not matter diluted from say 50:1 to say 2500:1. In driving 5000Km you might use 500L of fuel and perhaps 0.25L of engine oil. That's a ratio of 2000:1, so adding a bit of 2-stroke mix won't harm unless the 2-cycle oil used is particularly bad for your catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your car uses diesel, a 2% gasoline mix will do no harm. VW used to recommend a 25% gasoline mix to stop the diesel freezing in the Canadian winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user457" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T16:49:49.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1293" CreationDate="2011-04-19T21:15:13.500" Score="6" ViewCount="3727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2007 FJ cruiser up here in the north where we use lots of salt. The only issue I noticed with this vehicle (and about half of the FJs I looked at) was rust developing along the welds in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good approach to getting control of this problem?  Make that a practical approach, I am not going to take the body off the frame and have it sand blasted and powder coated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be reasonable to have it undercoated or treated in some way?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that some undercoating is actually worse because it traps moisture and salt against the metal, is there a good option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T04:14:08.743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T12:42:42.213" Title="Turning back rust on frame welds on a FJ Cruiser" Tags="|toyota|rust|body-work|frame|fjcruiser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:53:23.063" Score="7" ViewCount="4456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2006 Toyota Sienna. When driving with the heater on I often smell sulfur. This is more common when I am driving up a hill, but if I turn the heater off, the smell goes away. What causes this smell and how can I repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="306" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:09:33.397" Title="Heater smells like sulfur" Tags="|engine|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2011-04-20T05:22:04.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;air filter is a good place to start.  Some owners of older diesel MBZs have used Seafoam or diesel purge to some effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this video:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCVdSiECajQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCVdSiECajQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;be careful, as its easy to hydrolock your motor doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T19:50:22.857" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T19:50:22.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-20T14:18:36.777" Score="25" ViewCount="468489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1981 Yamaha XS650. I recently put in K&amp;amp;N stock replacement filter (ie, they are in the airbox and conform to the size of the original), however they may be leading to a leaner mixture because they purportedly let through more air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to tune my carbs (yes, I know that the B34s are notorious for being lean in the first place). I have attempted adjusting the pilot screw, which did alleviate the popping symptoms and gave me a much smoother ride at 25 mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to truly tune my carb, I want a better understanding of the symptoms of lean vs the symptoms of rich. Terms often used are:&#xA;Stuttering&#xA;Hesitating&#xA;Running Rough&#xA;etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And worse, many claims of lean conditions and rich conditions are contradictory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise me on what the real symptoms of lean vs rich system is. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user460" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T21:45:41.847" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T23:02:59.003" Title="Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|lean|rich|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-20T14:45:13.513" Score="4" ViewCount="48140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mustang that the battery light stays on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the battery and the alternator was checked by Autozone, they said it was good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user461" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:23:00.497" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T19:48:31.303" Title="Mustang charging system warning light on, but battery and alternator both passed testing?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:57:39.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that you are looking for a Android solution so I am going to send you to an iPhone site.  Actually, they have a nice list of hardware there which is open enough that they can support it as a third party.  You can find Andriod software for any of these devices. You may also have to click on the hardware tab since the deep link does not seem to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.devtoaster.com/products/rev/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;DevToster&quot;&gt;DevToaster Rev&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at the ElmCanII-WLAN dongle, it is WiFi and not Bluetooth but it also mentions EOBD support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;  Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004VXSH48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluetooth module&lt;/a&gt; that specifically mentions that it is Android compatible. It looks inexpensive as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="458" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T18:23:51.797" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T18:23:51.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="733" CreationDate="2011-04-20T18:25:59.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you may want a 2nd opinon on the alternator.  If both battery and alternator are good, then its either a wiring or ECU problem.  Check the contacts on the battery terminals/connectors to make sure they're not loose, dirty, or corroded.  Then follow the ground wire (the black one) back to the chassis of the car to make sure it has a solid ground..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T18:25:59.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2011-04-20T18:29:51.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am marginally capable with an oxy torch, but I'm curious as to what the best weld process is for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you looking for the easiest process to use to reach a goal of acceptable results? A properly adjusted MIG welder will act almost like an (electric) caulking gun for metal. Just squeeze and point. Pair this with CO2/argon mix gas for pretty welds. Add a $50 auto-darking helmet so you can see what you are doing and get up to speed the fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user462" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T18:29:51.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2011-04-20T20:54:19.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lean mixture in a motorcycle will symptomatically be hard to start - and you will see less/little fuel in the carburetor and if you remove the plug(s) immediatly after starting attempts, the plugs will be dry rather than an overly rich mixture where they might be &quot;wet&quot; with fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike runs rather bad/worse when cold, but better when warm it is likely running lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T20:54:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T03:29:59.200" Score="5" ViewCount="155581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '98 Rodeo and the clutch catches extremely high up the pedal. It's probably 1-2&quot; down (90% up in the travel). The clutch does not slip at all and the car runs great. Is this indicative of anything going wrong? The clutch has about 50k miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="466" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T18:23:56.277" Title="Clutch catches VERY high, is this bad?" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="738" CreationDate="2011-04-21T14:08:02.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every clutch is a little bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you understand where the clutch engages, you will be fine.  I believe the biggest factor in whether a clutch will last a long time is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding the clutch, driving for long distances with the clutch partially engaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dropping the clutch, i.e.- racing starts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing down the vehicle by downshifting and using the engine backpressure to slow the car down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a clutch that grabs a 1/4&quot; off the floorboard and a clutch that grabs 1/4&quot; from the top.  As long as you know where it grabs and you adjust your clutching style to match it, you shouldn't have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if the clutch grabs close to the top, you can do quicker shifts, but I doubt that is important in a Rodeo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T14:08:02.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="738" CreationDate="2011-04-21T14:08:52.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is probably no, this is not bad.  Inconvenient at times but likely just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer requires a little more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the clutch fully disengaged after it's depressed past that 2 inch mark?  Or is that just the point at which it really catches?  It's possible that the clutch is still slipping at that point, making for a very non-linear feel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My old diesel VW Rabbit was like that, making it very hard to teach my future wife how to drive a manual transmission....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T14:08:52.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:08:40.070" Score="6" ViewCount="13104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to replace the rear brake shoes and drums on a 2003 Chevy Tracker and when I pulled off the drum the adjuster, adjuster spring and pawl lever were not hooked up, they were just laying in there. This was both sides so I was wondering if anyone had a diagram of how this parts get installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user469" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T20:30:50.487" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T20:30:50.487" Title="How do I assemble the rear brakes on a 2003 Chevy Tracker?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:14:26.027" Score="8" ViewCount="46886" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Honda Civic gauges have started failing in an intermittent way.  When this happens, all the gauges (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temp, LCD odometer) all read zero.  When the gauges are in this state, the odometer is also not counting any mileage that I drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the car is driving fine and when the gauges come on, there are no warning lights (e.g. CEL) on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting thing that I have noticed is that when the gauges come on (possibly long after the car was started), the cluster goes through the normal startup sequence.  For example, the light that flashes a few times if you are due for service does its few flashes when the gauges come on.  This makes me think that the problem is with whatever component manages things like the time since last service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that this is a loose wire, or is it likely that there is a component that needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="468" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T16:11:04.977" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T12:43:50.587" Title="Honda Civic (2004) gauge cluster is intermittently dead" Tags="|honda|civic|gauges|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="758" CreationDate="2011-04-22T03:12:04.097" Score="7" ViewCount="21007" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AC on my 2002 Chevy Cavalier stopped blowing cold in the fall and I had planned on getting it checked out and recharged once the AC check specials started.  I saw this for $30 and it seems too good to be true.  Do they work?  Anything I should look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZhts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="471" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-23T01:12:58.037" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:58:20.487" Title="How to recharge AC using booster from auto parts store?" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|r134a|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2011-04-22T04:56:17.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This product solves one main problem(symptom), low freon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with this is that most cases of a car that have low freon is caused by a leak somewhere in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If your car suddenly stopped blowing cold air, then this will most likely not fix your problem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is probably one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A/C Compressor died&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large freon leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#q=freon+stop+leak&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&amp;amp;fp=2ec23705adf4e555&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt; and there appears to be A/C stop leak, but I do not know the efficacy of it, so YMMV. But, again, if you lost cold air quickly then this type of product most likely will not help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience when the A/C stops working it is very often the compressor.  There just isn't much else in the A/C system that is likely to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T04:56:17.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="746" CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:31:41.743" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/39/what-are-the-benefits-of-premium-high-octane-petrol&quot;&gt;What are the benefits of premium (high octane) petrol?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual that comes with my car says that I should use the more expensive higher octane fuel for the car. I'm extremely skeptical that I need to do this. Why would I follow this advice? What am I gaining by using the higher octane? What am I risking by using the lower octane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T13:37:06.367" Title="Do I really need to use that expensive grade of fuel?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-04-23T01:51:19.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="745" CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:37:06.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You should use the fuel recommended by your owner's manual.  If you don't you are increasing emissions, reducing performance and, in some circumstances, putting your car at risk of avoidable problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said over &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/39/what-are-the-benefits-of-premium-high-octane-petrol/54#54&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;High octane is required for some cars:&#xA;  e.g., a turbocharged car will likely&#xA;  require higher octane to reduce risk&#xA;  of detonation with higher charge&#xA;  temperatures. High octane is also&#xA;  required to get the optimal power out&#xA;  of a tuned car: properly advanced&#xA;  timing will enhance power and economy&#xA;  (obviously, not at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cars are capable of utilizing the&#xA;  highest octane available, depending on&#xA;  the ECU programming (this is not as&#xA;  common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cars can tolerate a lower octane&#xA;  for an unspecified time by retarding&#xA;  timing. This reduces economy and&#xA;  increases emissions but will allow you&#xA;  to limp home on lesser fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T13:37:06.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="730" CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:56:37.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the heater off, are you turning the thermostat down, turning the vent fan off or both?  Are you closing the vents?  Do you smell the same thing with the AC on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the answers, here are some possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaking gear lubrication (which can smell like sulfur) combined with a bad seal in the ventilation system (or an intake that catches a whiff).  Check for drips under the car: they should have the same smell.  If they're there, look for leaks around the transmission or differentials.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen sulfide from the catalytic converter, again getting picked up by the ventilation system.  If so, this is possibly a bad cat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Following up on the comment&lt;/em&gt;: are the side vents passive only?  Are they taking in air from the same channel?  Also, when you run the AC, are you running on recirculated cabin air or taking in air from the outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as leaks go, you could try putting newspaper under the car when you park it.  That will likely expose a drip that would otherwise go unnoticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T14:09:33.397" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T14:09:33.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2011-04-24T00:45:24.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got that exact same product!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose didn't work very well. I ended up buying a separate hose for $15 or so, with brass fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as Patrick said, a large amount of refrigerant solves a large refrigerant leak. And it won't solve it for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I recommend either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the shop and get a leak test, and a refill if it's slow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a quality hose and a &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; tank of refrigerant for $30 or less, and fill it until it's cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, it was a slow leak, which became a fast leak in short order. Oh well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T00:45:24.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-24T11:18:39.507" Score="1" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;All packed and ready to go, and the door won't unlock!! Had to climb through the boot, as the passenger lock has never worked (just spins and spins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No prior issue, just woke up and it had gone. Tests of shown the lock with lock the central locking, but not unlock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had this issue? Or know enough about Skoda's to advise? Is it an expensive fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T10:28:36.840" Title="Central Locking not unlocking on drivers door on a W Reg Skoda Felicia" Tags="|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="742" CreationDate="2011-04-24T13:31:40.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the entire instrument cluster is intermittently losing power. Loose wiring, particularly bad ground wire(s) should be your first suspect. Find the wiring harness(es) that plug into the back of the cluster and check that they are secure. Follow them around behind the dashboard to see if anything else is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find a ground wire for the cluster that grounds on the (metal) body of the car somewhere in the driver's footwell or behind the dashboard. I'll bet it's loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] the light that flashes a few times if you are due for service does its few flashes when the gauges come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you indicate that this is part of the cluster's normal behavior on start-up, I think this is just a normal consequence of the cluster suddenly being &quot;powered on.&quot; I don't think it indicates that the service interval counter is at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T13:31:40.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:44:27.767" Score="3" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my '91 Bonneville has been having an issue with idling while stopped, which may or may not have coincided with Service Engine Soon light turning on. The main symptom is an overall drop in the idle RPM (100~300 based on the tachometer), but this symptom will frequently be aggravated when attempting to accelerate (such as from a stop light/sign), often to the point of creating a noticeable stutter and every so often a stall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I would only notice this type of behavior when the tank would be down to the last gallon or two of gas, and then typically only when turning while accelerating from a stop (such as turning out of a parking lot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the Service Engine Soon light: I took the car to a local shop to have the ECM read but their scanner was unable to connect to the interface. They did however replace some rotten vacuum hoses, which did not appear to have a noticeable impact on the idling issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what I should check would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   I was able to retrieve the error code stored in the ECM. The error number was 41, which according to my repair manual may be one or two of three things (my car is fuel-injected):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41- no distributor signals to ecm, or faulty ignition module (carbed models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41- cylinders select error- mem-cal or ecm problem (fuel-injected models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41- cam sensor circuit (3.8 engine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="226" LastEditorUserId="226" LastEditDate="2011-04-28T16:11:46.757" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T16:11:46.757" Title="1991 Bonneville Idles Poorly When Stopped" Tags="|pontiac|mil|rough-idle|bonneville|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-25T01:53:28.680" Score="3" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with roughly 65k miles. Problem I'm experiencing is that every now and then she will give a couple of jerks while coasting along. Most of the time the car is traveling between 25 - 35 miles an hour. Tranmission fluid is still nice and pink and doesn't smell burnt and we just recently had the ECM replaced due to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/recall/corolla-matrix.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this recall&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions on where I should proceed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE to Comments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jerk is more of a lurch, it happens two or three times. the lurching is strong enough to notice, to start thinking &quot;that was weird, what was that&quot;, but not strong enough to move anything on the dash. Spacing of the jerks are seconds apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="82" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T17:17:11.963" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T19:32:53.023" Title="2006 Toyota Corolla Jerks while coasting" Tags="|troubleshooting|toyota|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:33:14.593" Score="5" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Plymouth Breeze that has a drivers seat belt that is stuck so that in does not roll out so that it can be used but it does not roll back in either, it's just stuck extended part way. Does anyone know of any way to loosen the belt or is it neccesary to replace it with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T01:54:57.977" Title="Stuck seatbelt on a 1998 Plymouth Breeze" Tags="|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2011-04-25T17:43:08.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/car/e661/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this solution&lt;/a&gt; at ThinkGeek. It plugs in to your OBDII port, . It connects via Bluetooth, and works with several different apps from the Android market. HTH!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T17:43:08.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2011-04-25T17:44:55.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try changing your fuel filter(s) and PCV valve if your car has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T17:44:55.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="752" CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:28:38.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on 2 vehicles, a 03 mustang and a 99 bonneville. When the car would come to a stop light the engine would idle too low and stall out.  The problem (in both cases) was the mass air flow sensor. Its a piece of electronics that determines the amount of air to let in to the engine from the throttle based on inputs. You could test it by throttling the car while on idle to see if you still get a stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="480" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T22:28:38.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:40:45.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do work. I've used them often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your low on freon, there may be a leak. However, if this is the case use a bottle of stop leak first or a bottle mixed with stop leak. It should seal up an value leakage. Replacing your AC unit is costly, most leaks can be fixed with a stop leak sealant unless the problem is serious.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Save the hose you can reuse it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for sales.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect to use half the bottle. Buy what you need. This is because once you pull the hose off the can can't be resealed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually 2 of the small cans is enough to completely refill the AC unit. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw on the cap and tighten down the gauge, it will poke a hole in the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach the hose to the low pressure air conditioning value. There are 2 AC lines, one high, one low pressure. They're both metal. Open the low pressure one and attach the hose well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start up the car and crank up the AC full blast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the gauge and let the material flow from the bottle into the AC lines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Agitate the can while it is filling (rotating from the 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock position every few seconds) to help the refrigerant vaporize and get into the system. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; turn the can upside down; you don't want liquid r134a hitting your compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release the trigger or close the gauge periodically by tightening it down on the bottle. When you do that you can read the pressure in the AC lines. When the pressure is in the safe range, stop! &lt;strong&gt;Do not overfill.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the can &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; empty (it will feel very light and empty and not as cold as before), you can turn the can upside down to release any remaining refrigerant and oil into the system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="480" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T14:58:20.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:58:20.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-25T23:44:42.620" Score="4" ViewCount="1768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an 80-HP marine diesel engine (in a sailboat, naturally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a the Parker/Racor 75500MAX dual fuel filter system with an attached vacuum gauge to monitor resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first few hours of operation (less than 2 hours) everything looked good: pressure was right around -3&quot; Hg, as expected for a fuel system with 1/4&quot; line coming from the tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometime after this 2-hour period, the pressure started creeping up and eventually reached astronomical (-20&quot; Hg) levels.  The engine, starved for fuel started to falter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to the second filter on this system and the pressure was still astronomical.  There was a slight drop, but not a drop down to -3&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary filters were essentially new.   The bowl in the bottom was clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my secondary filters, bled and primed, and when the engine started up, the pressure leaped up to -10&quot; Hg and floated up from there until the engine died again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can both filters show astronomical pressures like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean my fuel tanks are so filled with crud that little or no fuel is flowing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or could it be that my fuel tank vents have clogged?  (Maybe a wasp's nest in a vent?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there some other explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I diagnose this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="481" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T05:51:25.357" Title="Marine Diesel fuel filter vacuum gauge spiked -- filters are new" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="784" CreationDate="2011-04-26T10:57:19.357" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_electric_vehicle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hybrid electric vehicles&lt;/a&gt; goes to lengths explaining how good it is that an electric motor can be used in cases where the internal combustion engine is not very efficient and thus save fuel and lower the environmental impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what happens if it's −25 Celsius (appr. −13 Fahrenheit) outside? Such temperatures are not that uncommon - there're cities with population over 10 million in areas where such temperatures persist for months. AFAIK batteries discharge waaaay faster at such temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the battery in a hybrid electric vehicle still perform well in severe frost or will the vehicle just run as plain old internal combustion engine vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:59:29.713" Title="How will a hybrid electric vehicle electric drive perform in severe frost?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="764" CreationDate="2011-04-26T11:19:04.627" Score="2" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience with gasoline powered tools they are quite &quot;dirty&quot; - fuel and oil spill rather frequently and also there's a rather annoying smell of gasoline around. I'd expect the same from a gasoline powered scooter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How realistic is it to own a scooter without having a garage and store the scooter in an apartment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="433" LastEditDate="2011-04-27T05:40:42.803" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T05:40:42.803" Title="Is it practical to store a gasoline powered scooter in an apartment?" Tags="|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="763" CreationDate="2011-04-26T12:57:14.093" Score="18" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;For just about every car, there's at least two different &quot;maximum tire pressure&quot; ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The vehicle manufacturer's rating.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is usually found on a sticker attached to the driver's door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tire manufacturer's rating.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is usually found on the side-wall of each tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, I've actually got two questions here.  I'm fairly certain I know the answer to the first, but would rather the answerers here respond to confirm.  The second is really the meat of things, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which rating should be followed when filling one's tires?&lt;/strong&gt;  Should you use the vehicle's rating, the tire's rating, the lesser/greater of the two, or somewhere in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What variables can affect the maximum pressure rating that should be used for the tires?&lt;/strong&gt;  Could some major vehicle modifications, such as drivetrain or suspension changes, make the true &quot;best&quot; fill level deviate from one or both of the manufacturers' ratings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  For specificity's sake, I added the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'safety'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt; tag.  I'd like this issue more addressed from a safety/vehicle health standpoint, than a racing/performance perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T02:18:26.223" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T02:52:43.513" Title="What factors affect the maximum air pressure that should be put in a vehicle's tires?" Tags="|tires|safety|tire-pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2011-04-26T13:06:04.137" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bit of background: you can run your tires at various pressures, either under or over the recommendations. Over inflating the tires leads to overwear down the middle of the tire but a nice rigid tire - which is great for track days, smooth roads etc. Under inflating wears the outside edges more, and weakens the sidewalls meaning the tire can move about more - which is good on bumpy roads as they soak up bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire manufacturer rating is usually a recommended 'do not exceed' from the manufacturer in order to avoid tire wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle rating is based on the weight of the car and the handling characteristics (including the suspension travel) so is more around handling/comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, my vehicle recommendation is 32psi on the rears and 34 at the front, but I use 36 at the rear and 38 at the front as I prefer the handling characteristics - it points more on corners and is slightly more prone to oversteer. I still keep it under the tire manufacturer recommendation, which on these ones is 44psi unless I'm on a track racing - then I crank em all up to 44/46. Those pressures on the road make it very skittish and uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(caveat - it is a performance car, and I err more on the side of precise control and less on comfort)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update based on @Iszi's safety request:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are within the tire rating you keep the tire safe and reduce the risk of damage. As you raise the pressure, you make the tire harder and increase the pressure on the sidewalls which could be more likely to blow out in the event of hitting the tire off a kerb or pothole. Also, a higher pressure tire will place more load on the shocks/dampers/mounting brackets as it won't absorb so much of the impact from road bumps, so you can expect a shorter life for your shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, unless you are pushing the performance, I wouldn't expect this to make a dramatic difference to safety or wear and tear. Keep pressures somewhere below the two maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-04-27T13:48:57.687" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T13:48:57.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2011-04-26T14:53:55.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess this is hearsay, but I have a couple of friends who store a scooter and a 125 learner motorbike in their apartments, and they don't leak any oil or petrol - they are quite new though, so what I would advise is to have a good look at the scooter to see how old it is - if the engine is old it may have worn seals etc which may leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, get yourself a wooden board with a sheet or cloth overlay to park it on, that way you also avoid getting the floor dirty from the tires etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T14:53:55.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="783" CreationDate="2011-04-27T01:30:29.740" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2002 Saturn LW-200, with the stock radio/CD which doesn't have an auxiliary input. I want to replace the radio with one that has aux-in, so I can get rid of my crappy FM transmitter to listen to my iPod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before buying an aftermarket radio, I would like to know if I can use a more recent Saturn radio as-is in my 2002 Saturn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there is one with part number 15790419 on eBay, listed as a 06-08 ION / VUE / SKY radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if that radio would fit in my 2002 LW-200 Saturn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="486" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:44:42.587" Title="Would a 06-08 Saturn radio fit into a 2002 LW-200?" Tags="|saturn|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="727" CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:19:42.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is just one fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram on this page shows it located off to the side of the fuel tank  (it is marked with a 7):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wagenstad.com/index.php?modid=224&amp;amp;page=2-201-40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wagenstad.com/index.php?modid=224&amp;amp;page=2-201-40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcWfJ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T11:19:42.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="811" CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:30:26.433" Score="6" ViewCount="8274" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different ODB2 scan tools out there, some PC based, some standalone units, some more for tuning and some more for diagnosing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the different features that these devices provide?&#xA;What are the pros/cons among different models?&#xA;Is there one or two that &quot;stand out from the crowd&quot; as being the better ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professionally I work with computers which diagnose Commercial vehicles (J1587, J1939 etc) so I'm somewhat familiar with how they work, but I'm totally new to the passenger vehicle space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for my personal use, I have a few Nissans and a Subaru.  Price wise I'd be interested to hear what the ranges are for a good one.  I've seen them anywhere from $80 to several hundred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2011-04-27T18:13:17.340" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T11:22:34.497" Title="What is the best overall ODB2 scan tool?" Tags="|electrical|tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-10T21:20:35.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="770" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:19:00.410" Score="7" ViewCount="2162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a lug nut stud replaced on one of my rear tires. I believe they had to take apart the drum brake to remove the old stud and install the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same day I heard a scraping which increased in frequency as I sped up. I visually inspected the drum brake but didn't see anything out of place. The wheel cannot spin a full rotation when I jack up the car. It spins about 3/4 of the way freely then seems to catch on the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I can feel a slight pulsating when I brake at around 15-25mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what I should be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally got sick of the noise and replaced the brake drum, problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="491" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T22:22:29.750" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T22:22:29.750" Title="Rear Drum brake scraping and brake pulsating" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:51:35.847" Score="4" ViewCount="5275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Symptom: At certain speeds (70 mph, 40 mph, etc.) there is a noticeable vibration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle:  1998 GMC Sonoma  (2 wheel drive)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle was purchased used and had similar symptoms at the time.  It now has 137,000 miles on it.  After getting alignments and replacing the tires, it is not as bad, but I might just have gotten more used to it. Since it has been through a few sets of tires now, it has eliminated my suspicion of the wheels being out of balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I check next?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T07:14:39.137" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T20:35:00.693" Title="Occasional Vibration at specific highway speeds." Tags="|wheels|truck|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="768" CreationDate="2011-04-27T22:18:20.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did they adjust your brake when they reinstalled it? Or just put it back together? Check the star-adjuster to see if it looks like it was extended out more then it should have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T22:18:20.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2011-04-27T22:23:04.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow OEM. The max rating that is on a tire is usually given to prevent people from over filling, and also it goes along with a weight limit. This means if it says 55, but 80 when maxed roll with 55. If pulling a heavy boat, then you roll with 80 because the extra weight would require the extra pressure for the tires to hold up properly. Bottom line, if you are simply driving your vehicle normally, stick to manufacturer recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T22:23:04.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="767" CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:10:23.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot answer all of your questions, as my experience is only with one OBD II scanner. I can give you the feedback that I've been using the very basic Actron CP9125 for years, and it has served my purpose of reading CEL codes (and resetting them) very well, on a number of different Japanese import cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Actron CP9125 can only read codes (and it comes with a paper booklet that translates most of them into brief descriptions of what has triggered them). It is not a device for datalogging or tuning the vehicle via adjustment of fuel maps, ignition timing maps, or rev limiters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T18:10:23.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="754" CreationDate="2011-04-29T01:23:24.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be the perfect solution, but after removing the panel covering the belt roll, I touched the roll with my finger and it unstuck, however when the weather gets better here I will take out the roll and see if the roll break (the part that stops the roll in case if hard breaking) is maybe not lubricated enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T01:23:24.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-29T07:46:34.527" Score="3" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Europe, the standard was to have 95e5 fuel (RON 95 gasoline with 5% ethanol). New guidlines however, make that countries are switching to selling 95e10 (10% ethanol). Finland e.g. (where I live) has made the switch, while other countries like the Netherlands are waiting it out, to see what problems will arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially in Germany there was quite some uproar, as some manufacturers were proclaiming that the e10 fuel is bad for the cars. A lot of people there are fuelling 98e5 now instead (even though it's more expensive). Also here in Finland some people make that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm driving myself a 2010 Toyota Yaris. Will there be any negative consequences to any parts of my engine if I continue to use 95e10? Is it better to switch to 98e5 instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="501" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T13:24:31.997" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T13:24:31.997" Title="What damage could Gasoline &quot;95E10&quot; do to my Yaris?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="782" CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:28:35.513" Score="4" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a low-speed parking lot encounter with a brick wall, the rear bumper on my e36 m3 has about a 1&quot; gap from the body panel right above it, on the right wheel-well.  It looks as if someone facing the right wheel grabbed the bumper and twisted it clockwise slightly. It's not rubbing on anything, and it doesn't look like it's about to come off, but it's a little unsightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trivially easy/cheap way to fix that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="502" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:40:23.963" Title="Slight deformation of rear bumper" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:21:57.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most if not all modern cars will run on 10% Ethanol without any damage to the engine or fuel system. Check you owners manual as it probably gives you this information. It is/was called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_ethanol_fuel_mixtures#E10_or_less&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gasohol&lt;/a&gt; here in the states and was popular in the 80's (if my memory serves me correctly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_ethanol_fuel_mixtures#Modifications_to_engines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chart&lt;/a&gt; shows the various concentrations and the modifications required, it indicates that a Carbureted vehicle may need modification to run on E10, in my experience this has not been the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T13:21:57.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="777" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;E10, sometimes called gasohol, is a fuel mixture of 10% anhydrous ethanol and 90% gasoline that can be used in the internal combustion engines of most modern automobiles and light-duty vehicles without need for any modification on the engine or fuel system. E10 blends are typically rated as 2 to 3 octane higher than regular gasoline and are approved for use in all new US automobiles, and are mandated in some areas for emissions and other reasons.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_ethanol_fuel_mixtures#E10_or_less&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; The E10 blend and lower ethanol content mixtures have been used in several countries, and its use has been primarily driven by the several world energy crises that have taken place since the 1973 oil crisis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_ethanol_fuel_mixtures#E10_or_less&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="778" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" Score="0" Body="Fuel containing 10% Ethanol." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T14:28:05.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="780" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:25:04.263" Score="18" ViewCount="3113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard click torque wrench.  I was told I should set it to zero when not using it in order to keep the accuracy high.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I have not been doing this since I purchased the wrench a few years ago, how much of a problem is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T19:54:08.203" Title="Should a mechanical &quot;click&quot; Torque Wrench be set to zero when not in use?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="779" CreationDate="2011-04-29T21:04:00.250" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should store it at zero, it weakens the spring. I would have it checked/calibrated to make sure it is still accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T21:04:00.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:29:46.707" Score="7" ViewCount="4097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know very little about motor vehicle maintenance and repair, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently my car started making a puttering sound (&quot;puh-puh-puh...&quot;). I took it to the Toyota dealer, and they said it sounds like it's coming from the timing belt, but I didn't ask them to fix it because I wanted to do more research on this problem. I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 60,000 miles. The manual says to get the timing belt replaced at 90,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get the timing belt replaced, or should it be fine until around 90,000 miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="506" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:06:13.667" Title="Timing belt sound - time to replace?" Tags="|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:40:23.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lay down and look under the bumper. Compare the damaged side to the undamaged side. One or more of the clips or screws that hold the bumper in place may have been broken or bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't see an obvious problem, then you can look up instructions in a repair manual for removing the bumper. Those will show you where all the attachment points are. Barring that, you'll have to take it to a body shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:40:23.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="765" CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:44:42.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try browsing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Crutchfield&quot;&gt;Crutchfield&lt;/a&gt;’s catalogue of car stereos. You might be able to infer an answer from their information on which stereos fit which cars. However, even if the dashboard spaces are the same, the wiring may be different. You might need an adaptor to connect the newer stereo to the older car's plug. Crutchfield or a stereo shop might be able to help you with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:44:42.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="760" CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:59:29.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by &quot;hybrid electric vehicle.&quot; A car with a &quot;series hybrid&quot; drivetrain like the Chevrolet Volt always uses its electric motor, even when its gasoline engine is running to charge the battery. A &quot;parallel hybrid&quot; drivetrain like that used in the Honda Insight uses the combustion engine most of the time anyway; its electric motor mostly helps with accelerating (e.g., starting from a stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cold weather effectively reduces the battery's capacity, it will need to be recharged more often (e.g., more time running the combustion engine in a Volt or other series hybrid, shorter range in a battery-only car like the Nissan Leaf). Or, it will have less extra accelerating power available to help the combustion engine. Either way, the efficiency gain from having the electric motor will be reduced, perhaps severely. It's hard to say exactly &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; severely because there are so many other factors in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/01/27/AR2011012707040.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Cold truths on electric avenue&quot;&gt;this Washington Post article&lt;/a&gt; to read more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In no case, however, will the car completely &quot;abandon&quot; its electric motor and run on combustion only, unless the batteries are damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T12:59:29.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="786" CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:59:31.990" Score="4" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm coming up empty-handed on a Google search so maybe I'm not searching with the right vocabulary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 LEDs out and I'm not sure if the single bulb can be replaced or if it's one single part for all lights.  I feel like I found a site a couple of weeks ago, but didn't bookmark it and can't find it again.   What is this part officially called? Are there part number(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                               What is this?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCmnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Need part identification&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the sort of replacement something a non-mechanic can attempt or should it be left to the pros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="508" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T12:35:33.740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T09:49:32.820" Title="What is the name of this part on a 2003 Mazda Protege5?" Tags="|lights|parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2011-05-01T13:06:55.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL) or sometimes a Center High Mount Brake Lamp (CHMBL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find a Web site with part numbers, you could go to the parts counter at a Mazda dealer and ask them to look up the part number(s). They can tell you whether it's all one piece or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to take the light apart in your car. Your owner's manual is probably no help here. You might be able to find disassembly instructions in a repair manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T13:06:55.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="785" CreationDate="2011-05-01T18:08:05.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's commonly called a third brake light, although the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/785/what-is-the-name-of-this-part-on-a-2003-mazda-protege5/786#786&quot;&gt;William Cline&lt;/a&gt; listed the more technical terms for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find several used ones at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.car-part.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;car-part.com&lt;/a&gt; prices range from $20 - $50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to replace the assembly you cannot replace just one of the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T18:08:05.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-02T03:31:17.133" Score="3" ViewCount="2190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted to do a cooling system flush today (along with replacement of radiator hoses, water pump and thermostat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the blue drain plug (my car only had one, apparently some cars have two) on the bottom of the radiator and another drain plug on the side of the engine under the exhaust manifold, my expansion tank still has a bunch of coolant left in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one know if that's normal?  Is there another special way I should get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T12:46:32.163" Title="Coolant still in expansion tank after draining from engine and radiator -- BMW E46 (2003 330i)" Tags="|bmw|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="788" CreationDate="2011-05-02T04:22:16.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is normal. I wouldn't worry about trying to get the rest of it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T04:22:16.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:57:47.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern car engines are &quot;interference&quot; engines, meaning the pistons and valves will collide if not kept in synchronization by the timing belt. I don't know whether your Camry has an interference engine; maybe someone who knows Toyotas can provide a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If closer inspection by the dealer or another mechanic indicates that the belt or its tensioner is failing, then yes, it should be replaced. That said, I'm not sure how definitively they'll be able to trace the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T12:57:47.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="792" CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:10:55.007" Score="16" ViewCount="76312" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2003 Opel Vectra, &lt;strong&gt;the cabin air smells of Diesel exhaust while stopped at e.g. a red light.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The exhaust smell goes away when driving, and it also doesn't come back if I turn the ventilation off before stopping at a light. It's not temperature-related: it happens whether it's cold or warm outside, and also whether or not the engine has reached its normal operating temperature. It also happens whether or not the A/C function of the ventilation system is turned on. The car's windows are always closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that there is some problem with the car's ventilation and/or exhaust system. I'm fairly sure it's not a problem with the A/C itself as it's not a chemical odor but clearly an exhaust smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking the dealer, he told me that the car has a Diesel-powered auxilary heater that engages when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warm yet. While that heater is working, the heated cabin air might have a weak Diesel smell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- This explanation would make sense to me if it &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; happen in the summer too (when the aux heater is presumably not used), and if it &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; happen while driving, but neither is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. What could be wrong with the car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;2. Is it dangerous to drive?&lt;/strong&gt; (carbon monoxide gases)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T14:17:48.807" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T13:55:30.843" Title="When car is standing still, I smell Diesel exhaust. Why?" Tags="|exhaust|hvac|smell|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:16:30.213" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first concern is that you have an exhaust leak. The exhaust is designed to exit at the rear and or side of the car, far away from your fresh air intake of the ventilation system in the cowl area. I would check for an exhaust leak starting at the front as you stated that it's coming in from through the ventilation system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be dangerous and should not be ignored, you could be overcome by the exhaust which can contain Carbon Monoxide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T14:16:30.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="794" CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:43:06.720" Score="43" ViewCount="141972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2010 Prius. It has a dead battery, front facing forward in my garage. I do not have long enough jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve searched the Internet. Did Toyota really create a car that cannot be put into neutral if the battery is dead? I need to move it out of the garage. Am I missing something here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="515" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T03:17:21.833" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T02:57:59.823" Title="Is there a way to put Prius with dead battery into neutral?" Tags="|toyota|battery|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:46:00.183" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/staticcontent/en/techinfo/html/prelogin/docs/3rdprius.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010 Prius Emergency Response Guide&lt;/a&gt; (page 10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Being electronic, the gearshift selector and the park systems depend on the low voltage 12 Volt auxiliary battery for power. If the 12 Volt auxiliary battery is discharged or disconnected, the vehicle cannot be started and cannot be shifted out of park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The auxiliary battery is located in the cargo area. It is concealed by a fabric cover on the passenger side rear quarter well (page 15):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/is58q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;access to auxiliary battery&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you can get to the back of your car and there is no longer a need for you to put it into neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T03:17:04.940" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T03:17:04.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="795" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" Score="0" Body="Hybrid Electric Vehicle - A Vehicle with two power sources, usually a gasoline engine combined with a battery and an electric motor." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T03:48:28.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="798" CreationDate="2011-05-03T09:49:31.260" Score="15" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once snow tires are changed to warm-weather tires in spring it's tempting to wash them before putting to storage so that they don't stain stuff they come into contact with. One concern is that studs might get rusty and thus their lifetime will become slightly shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How realistic is this concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do snow tire studs get rusty? Will tires require some specific drying procedure if they are washed before putting to storage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T13:05:26.380" Title="Will snow tire studs get rusty if a tire is washed before putting to storage?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2011-05-03T13:05:26.380" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reality is that snow tires live in a world of wet snow and salt.  That's about the worst possible combination for corrosion.  Your best bet in that situation is to dilute the salt-water solution, usually from straight water rinsing.  Any remaining risk of corrosion will have been greatly decreased by your rinse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inclination is to rinse off the tires that I'm not going to use for a while, just to reduce the muck in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, a stud's composition will affect its vulnerability to corrosion.  Here's a reasonable starting reference on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=151&quot;&gt;stud types&lt;/a&gt;.  In general, though, any metal that's driving through a snowy winter is going to face serious wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final remark, it's worth noting this comment in the reference: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check with local law enforcement&#xA;  officials to confirm restrictions in&#xA;  your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T13:05:26.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:07:09.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of favorable reviews on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/elm327-bluetooth-obd-ii-wireless-transceiver-dongle-16921&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ELM327 on DealExtreme&lt;/a&gt;.  $52.99 currently...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OI4H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ELM327 Bluetooth OBD-II Dongle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="230" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T16:07:09.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="733" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:33:42.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery light works by connecting the battery's plus side (through the ignition switch!) to the alternator's positive output. It's probably the oddest piece of circuitry in a car, but that's why it glows when either isn't working. And why it has to be an incandescant globe (but you could use two LEDs to indicate which has failed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a wiring problem, but not necessarily with the light itself. I'd check the engine, alternator and battery are properly grounded (though that should create ignition problems) and that the charging cable is whole. If the alternator is failing to charge the battery, you will probably notice the engine note drop sharply when you turn on something high-current, such as the headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T00:33:42.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:21:25.603" Score="4" ViewCount="17123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure my power steering fluid is low (and may even be leaking). I got the car used and I've been told that this model of BMW doesn't use standard power steering fluid. Does anyone know exactly what I should be buying to put into this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="521" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T00:06:32.240" Title="Power Steering Fluid for 1997 BMW 528i?" Tags="|bmw|power-steering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:40:26.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, use ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) instead of normal Power Steering Fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T12:40:26.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="804" CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:13:49.043" Score="16" ViewCount="19343" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to a friend of mine: The &quot;check engine&quot; light came on in his truck (Toyota). He replaced the gas cap and the light shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I also had a &quot;check engine&quot; light come on in my 1994 Chevy. I took it to the dealer, they hooked up to the computer and ran a full check. The service writer (not the mechanic) told me a bunch of mumblety that amounted to &quot;lots of things could cause the light to come on, but we can't figure out which one in this case, 'cause the computer is too old.&quot; Then he told me I should get a new gas cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Huh? Why would that make a difference? And why can't they tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="522" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T21:08:35.207" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T15:37:47.063" Title="Why would a new gas cap cause the &quot;check engine&quot; light to shut off?" Tags="|mil|cel|fuel-tank|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:12:28.090" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possible explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the fuel cap does not form a good enough seal, the fuel injection system may experience problems with drawing fuel from the tank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On newer cars many of them have a fuel cap sensor to detect if the cap is not screwed in.  This is related to emissions, although i am uncertain how.  I know when I get my yearly emissions check the tech has to hook the fuel cap up to a machine and it tests it (I believe for pressure leaks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2006 VW Golf has a specific fuel cap light on the dashboard that will come on to alert me if the cap is not screwed in correctly rather than light up my Check Engine Light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T21:12:28.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:19:27.370" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EPA regulations require that the fuel tank is a sealed system so that no vapors escape. There is an entire system (Evaporative Purge) dedicated to that task. EPA regulations also require that the ECM (Engine Control Module) check the system for leaks. When the right conditions are met, IE fuel level between 1/3 and 1/2 tank, outside temp 50 - 90, etc., the ECM pulls a vacuum on the evap system and makes sure it holds a vacuum. This tells the ECM if there is a leak, allowing vapors to leak into the atmosphere. If it fails this check x number of times it turns the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on. This could be caused by a leaking seal, a torn hose, or a missing gas cap. If the problem is corrected the light goes out the next time the computer runs the test and it passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this system first came out, salesmen and service advisers everywhere were telling anyone with a MIL light on &quot;just tighten your gas cap the light will reset itself&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the service adviser you were talking to (in your second question) did not know what he was talking about. If your car has a &quot;check engine light&quot; it has a computer and it stores a trouble code that it turned the light on for. It's crazy to say the computer is too old for us to know why the light is on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T15:37:47.063" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T15:37:47.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="759" CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:25:29.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was crud in the fuel pickup tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I switched a jerry can into the fuel line and the engine (after priming) ran perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I used a priming bulb to force air back into the tank.  It took several vigorous squeezes to blow the crud back into the tank from the pickup tube (and possibly the tank selector valves and the other lines.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="481" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T21:25:29.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="808" CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:40:22.950" Score="11" ViewCount="5152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title pretty much says it all. I'm a computer guy, not a car guy. I saw a bunch of red fluid coming out of my vehcile, assumed it was tranny fluid. Turns out it was antifreeze. This means the bit of tranny fluid I put in the reservoir that was leaking was a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I expect to happen to my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="527" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T19:37:27.010" Title="I'm stupid and added tranny fluid to my coolant tank. What can I expect?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="807" CreationDate="2011-05-05T00:11:11.180" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't run the car yet then just drain out the reservoir.  If you have run the car then some of the fluid might have started to circulate through the cooling system.  If so, flush your coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small amount should not affect the car's ability to stay cool.  So this is not that critical, but you definitely don't want to let your engine overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T00:11:11.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-05T05:46:25.873" Score="5" ViewCount="6317" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike has been running just fine. Recently left the lights on while at work, completely draining the battery. Couldn't get it push started there, but was able to get it jumped. I thought no biggie right, new battery, easy fix. Wrong. Bought a new battery, charged it up, but still no start. Thinking maybe a blown fuse with the jump since it was done with the car off. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="529" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T03:58:12.097" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T21:16:53.810" Title="2001 Suzuki Katana 750 won't start after jump start and new battery" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="809" CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:50:37.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check that your battery connections are secure and clean.   There is a chance that the brand new battery is bad.  Make sure your head-light at least comes on when trying to start it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jump starting the bike should not do damage unless, you touch some thing other than the battery with the positive cable.  I would not rule the chance out that there could be electrical damage due to the jump start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T11:50:37.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="767" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:30:22.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for personal use and already have access to a laptop computer, I'd highly recommend getting a PC (or Mac, if that's what you have)-based one. You buy the hardware, generally for $100 or less (I recommend the units from ScanTool.net - the less expensive ones are fine). The biggest advantage is that you can start out with the free software that comes with it, or download free stuff from other sites. If you find that you need more features, manufacturer-specific PID access, etc. you just buy upgraded software as needed. A PC-based scan tool will also allow you to do fancy stuff like detailed data logging, realtime graphs, or a &quot;dashboard&quot; display of important PIDs on the laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="530" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T13:30:22.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="892" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:32:05.693" Score="7" ViewCount="14372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser with a 2H diesel engine. I never changed oil on a diesel engine prior to this truck, so I'm a little confused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota Factory Shop Manual recommend API CC oil type, previous owner told me that he always put synthetic oil, and considering that I live in a northern territory(Canada) who have temperature below the freezing point, what kind of engine oil should I put into this engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my other cars, I put regular 5w30 oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T18:16:02.137" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T02:43:51.770" Title="What kind of engine oil should one use in a diesel?" Tags="|engine|oil|toyota|diesel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:38:25.843" Score="3" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Daewoo Lanos SX which uses coded key. From time to time the car will stop detecting the key and I get into a situation where I'm unable to start the vehicle. The problem usually lasts between 1 and 5 minutes and after that the car recognizes the key.  So far I'm unable to detect what happens when the key does get detected and I'm unable to reproduce the problem at will. I've tried replacing the keychain, turning various power consumers on and off (like AC, fans and so on), but as far as I can see, the do not have any effect on the key recognition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They key itself is sealed, so I can't just replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local authorized repair shop keeps telling me that everything is working fine and that there are no problems with the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where do I start solving this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; The key itself looks like the AKK153 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tonyandrews.net/vehicle%20models%20key_page2.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="531" LastEditorUserId="531" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T20:16:53.443" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T20:16:53.443" Title="Daewoo Lanos SX from 2002 soemtimes does not detect coded key." Tags="|electrical|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="813" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:45:52.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like a low battery on the key.  I would look into possible replacement of the key, as other electrical items like the AC, should not be interfering with key detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T14:45:52.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="788" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:09:41.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there another special way I should&#xA;  get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to siphon out the expansion tank if you'd really like everything to be totally empty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder: coolant is toxic.  Do not attempt the &quot;suck the hose&quot; method to start the siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T16:09:41.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="821" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:27:04.440" Score="16" ViewCount="99163" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drove a manual transmission, I got in the habit of shifting to neutral on long, shallow grades to save fuel. Now I'm driving an automatic (specifically, a recent Corolla) and still doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But someone told me recently that being in neutral while moving can cause an automatic transmission to overheat, since the fluid is not being circulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="374" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T04:37:16.667" Title="Can coasting in neutral damage an automatic transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:50:17.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;call your local toyota dealership and ask them. Over the years, they may have changed their recommended fluid types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T17:50:17.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="822" CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:11:19.483" Score="17" ViewCount="124842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Honda Rebel 250 motorcycle and over the past few days I find that the bike is losing power when accelerating fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I twist the throttle to accelerate quickly (in any gear) I hear the engine sound increasing in pitch by a lot more than I'm used to hearing, but the motorcycle doesn't seem to respond and performance is very poor. If I then twist it back to a position of slow acceleration, the engine noise returns to I'm used to hearing (still the accelerating noise but a lot lower pitch) and the performance also seems to be appropriate to that level of acceleration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong with the motorcycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T21:40:02.753" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:56:42.277" Title="Why is my motorcycle losing power when accelerating?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|performance|cmx250|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2011-05-06T01:51:28.883" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it will make a difference on gas mileage either way. Anytime the engine is running the front pump on the transmission is being turned by the torque converter and is lubricating the transmission which is also circulating fluid through the transmission cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how it could cause premature failure of the transmission. Technically you are shifting out of gear and back into gear one extra time when you decide to do this, but it's not really any different that a regular shift so it shouldn't cause extra wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T01:51:28.883" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2011-05-06T01:55:22.343" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;My knowledge of motorcycles is limited so I could be wrong, but it sounds like the clutch is slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T01:55:22.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="823" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="824" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" Score="0" Body="Diagnostic Trouble Code" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T02:08:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="827" CreationDate="2011-05-06T09:19:38.153" Score="26" ViewCount="42716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently in the lucky position to obtain an (almost brand new) Alfa Romeo MiTo, Progression. Like many new cars coming out these days, it has &quot;Start &amp;amp; Stop&quot; technology that turns the engine off when the car is stationary and is put in neutral and the clutch is released. When putting down the clutch again the engine fires back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Is start-stop technology bad for my engine in any way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) What impact might start-stop have on my battery? I.e. won't it deteriorate battery life with the constant turning on and off? (The radio, fans and lights remain on whilst in &quot;stop&quot;-mode, but not things like the aircon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Will this technology really benefit me that much with regards to fuel-consumption? I can imagine it will be more economic when stops in heavy traffic become really long or traffic lights are red for long periods, but for the most part when driving the car doesn't turn off for longer than a minute at most before I have to &quot;start&quot; it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many new cars lately have this technology I imagine that it can't be that bad, but I'm curious as to it's actual real benefits. I can turn this feature off, but I have to do so every time I start my car up for the first time and then I'm stuck with this glaring orange light in my dash, letting me know it's turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="538" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:00:54.653" Title="Is Start &amp; Stop technology good or bad for my car? (Alfa MiTO)" Tags="|engine|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="750" CreationDate="2011-05-06T10:28:36.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not open the door manually with the key? You say the passenger lock spins, but don't mention the one on the driver's door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of central locking failing in that fashion is a broken wire, usually where the wires pass through the rubber gaiter between the door and the body - As the wires have to flex every time you open and close the door, they are weakened and can snap internally. This is even worse if the gaiter is damaged in any way, as they then rub against the sharp edges of the hole in the door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, you may be able to replace the wire or splice in a new section. I don't know how Skodas are arranged, some cars have a plug fitting between the gaiter and the body so the door can be removed. If so, you should be able to disconnect it and check with a multimeter whether the wires between that and the solenoid are still intact (you will have to remove the door card to get at the solenoid, which will be on the inside of the door shell near the lock itself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T10:28:36.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2011-05-06T10:44:01.547" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that this sort of technology would lead to increased wear on your starter motor, as it is being used far more than it would normally be, however I would hope that they would have anticipated this and designed the starter to be more robust than a traditional one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery should be able to cope with it fine all the time it is in good condition. Batteries do, however, deteriorate over time, with a usual life of around 8-10 years at most. I suspect that as your battery starts to deteriorate, it won't be able to cope as well with the increased drain, leading to the car failing to re-start with traditional flat-battery symptoms. How well the electronics cope with this remains to be seen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your third question, I doubt it will help much at all. Getting an engine started needs quite a lot of energy (hence the big chunky battery), and the only way to get that energy is to burn fuel, through your alternator sapping power as it recharges the battery. I don't know the exact figures, but I suspect you'd have to have the engine off for a fair while to save enough fuel to offset the cost of starting it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T10:44:01.547" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="831" CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:51:48.960" Score="18" ViewCount="93829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally drove my 2000 Grand Marquis on second gear on the highway. I was going 65 for like 5 minutes and tried to get it to 70mph but the car was shaking, when I realized I put it into regular drive while going 65 and it stopped shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any damage that this can do to my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T20:24:53.453" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T22:04:30.337" Title="Driving in second gear at 65+ mph" Tags="|engine|transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="855" CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:05:45.337" Score="8" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual for the 3rd generation Mazda rx7 says not to roll downhill without the engine engaged, because the exhaust can overheat.  Unfortunately, the manual does not explain the mechanism by which the overheating occurs, so I have no idea whether it can affect other cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause the overheating, and could it be a problem with other turbocharged manual transmission cars? Or just twin-turbo rotaries? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="502" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:34:48.867" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T13:05:16.630" Title="Why can't the 3rd generation Mazda rx7 safely coast downhill in neutral?" Tags="|transmission|mazda|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2011-05-06T19:57:58.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably did no immediate damage. Most cars have an electronic limiter that keep the engine RPM from going into the redline, which could cause a blown engine. However, if you kept doing that, your engine would wear out a lot faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T19:57:58.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:07:34.220" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely not great.  The redline is there for a reason.  That shaking was likely the engine speed limiter looking at the RPMs and saying, &quot;yes, that's high enough.&quot;  The speed limiter can be either an ignition cutoff or a fuel cutoff - both will make the car feel very shaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common bad consequence of an overspeed condition when the engine speed limiter fails to thwart the operator is a bent valve.  There's a lot going on in the engine when it's turning at several thousand RPMs: if the valve does not have time to return to its seat before the piston comes back up, the piston is going to hit the valve harder than you would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that's not the only possibility, just the most common that I've heard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, listen to your car and be glad that the limiter worked that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T21:07:34.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-07T00:04:03.870" Score="5" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a small engine (11 HP B&amp;amp;S) that has a gravity-fed fuel system, i.e. there is no fuel pump, simply a fuel line between the carburetor and the fuel tank. If I look at the short (~2-3&quot;) piece of transparent fuel line between the filter and the carburetor, I can see bubbles (rather large ones, maybe 1/2 the diameter of the fuel line) traveling from the filter into the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an indication of a leak in the line, the filter, or one of the connections? Should I be concerned, or is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also experiencing a loss of power when the engine heats up, and I'm wondering if the bubbles could be related...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:29:27.833" Title="Are bubbles in a gravity-fed fuel system an indication of a problem?" Tags="|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="865" CreationDate="2011-05-07T17:30:01.740" Score="9" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just taken my motorcycle out of storage, I rode her around the block once, parked her, and now she is refusing to turn over. The starter seems to be running fine. I've just filled the tank with new fuel, and replaced the oil. Also, the battery is fully charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my ride around the block, I felt a few small &quot;bumps&quot; coming from the engine, as if it was struggling to continue to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which potential problems should I look for next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be to check the spark plugs, and test for fuel/oil clogs, in that order, but I'm not an expert, so I'm looking for advice (is there something else that's more likely to be the problem), or confirmation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T21:00:57.073" Title="My motorcycle is refusing to start, which common problems should I look for?" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1046" CreationDate="2011-05-07T19:41:48.533" Score="3" ViewCount="5874" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keys are stuck in the ignition in this vehicle, even when the car is in park. What can be done to fix this, so the keys can come out again? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T00:01:26.150" Title="Key won't come out of a Ford Fusion, 2007" Tags="|ford|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-07T22:17:51.883" Score="1" ViewCount="2933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the steps to find and/or re-program the code used with the keyless entry system.  In other words, I don't know the code for my vehicle's keyless entry system.  What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastEditorUserId="1357" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T12:18:36.983" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T15:46:48.027" Title="Ford Excursion Keyless Entry System" Tags="|ford|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2011-05-08T18:37:44.407" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;More details of the vehicle in question would be helpful to be sure.  However, from personal experience, my guess would be that the shakes are not solely due to the engine being run at high RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mercury Grand Marquis is equipped with a 4.6L Modular V8 engine and 4R70W automatic transmission, similar to many other products of the Ford Motor Company.  Notable among these, at one point or another, have been the Ford Mustang, Ford Crown Victoria, Lincoln Town Car, and the Lincoln Mark VIII.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Lincoln Mark VIII, 65-70 MPH in 2nd gear was very doable.  In fact, redline (6,000 RPM) for 2nd gear got you going at around 90 MPH.  Maintaining such a high engine speed for long durations would definitely get things heated up a bit, but it's nothing the car can't handle as long as you don't do it for too long or too often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had to do this myself to take the Mark VIII for repairs after the one-way clutch had failed - rendering the transmission unable to engage any gear higher than 2nd.  To get to the shop where the work was going to be done required about a half-hour or so of highway travel.  Parts of the highway were 65-70 MPH zones, where of course most drivers were running 75-80+.  The way I managed the trip was to take the car up to speed until the engine started to get too warm, and then coast in neutral long enough to let it cool down to a more regular temperature before engaging the transmission for another run.  I definitely don't recommend doing this if it can be avoided, but it should serve as a case example for two points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's doubtful that your car was redlining at 65-70 MPH in 2nd gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A one-time incident of approximately 5 minutes' duration at that speed, while not exactly good for the car, should not cause significant damage to an otherwise healthy drivetrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the shaking that you've experienced though, I'd definitely want to have a professional take a look at the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T18:37:44.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-09T00:06:55.857" Score="5" ViewCount="9965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add an auxiliary audio input to my 2006 Honda Accord LX-SE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What parts do I need to purchase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can someone with a rudimentary understanding of electronics perform the installation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's involved in installing the parts from (1)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="550" LastEditorUserId="550" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T17:13:30.983" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T21:23:00.113" Title="Aux Audio Input for 2006 Honda Accord" Tags="|electrical|honda|audio|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:40:36.890" Score="6" ViewCount="125391" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my previous cars I could save certain radio stations, volume levels, etc. on my stereo and they would stay saved (unless the battery went dead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the same stereo head unit in my latest car but it seems to be starting completely from scratch every time I start the car - any saved settings are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is that whatever way car is wired there doesn't seem to be electricity available to the head unit unless the engine is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to keep power available to the unit all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="551" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T22:11:51.173" Title="Keeping radio/stereo unit powered to save pre-set preferences?" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:49:16.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a problem in the way the head-unit was installed.  If you had someone install it, take it back and explain the issue, if you did it yourself, double-check to make sure everything is wired up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T16:49:16.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:01:06.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some car wiring systems provide an always-on line, as well as an ignition line. The way these are handled can be different. If your current car has them split out functionally, you may need to wire the always on 12V to your head unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T17:01:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3322" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:11:58.263" Score="5" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running into trouble connecting the inductive loop ammeter that resides in the Mustang's gauge cluster. We already put the black wire (the one with the yellow stripe on it) through the hole but can't find any information on how to proceed from here :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had the same issues and knows how to connect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="552" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:04:34.910" Title="'65 Ford Mustang GT: Connecting the inductive loop ammeter" Tags="|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:43:29.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once had this issue with a new head unit, but it was installed by a shop. I took it back and they explained that the technician had forgotten to connect the always-on wire or something along those lines. I would look for a wire that isn't connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T20:43:29.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2011-05-10T06:42:48.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are almost certainly two different power lines available to, and likely to be needed by, the radio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;always on&quot; line always has power available on it.  This is what would ensure that the settings in the radio stay on when the car is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have connected two power leads to the radio, you may have reversed them.  If you only connected one, you probably also need to connect another one that is from a line that is always powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, go back and check your wiring: specifically the pinout for power connectors (there should be two of them), and the power supplied from the car to these two lines.  For example, see the photo on this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=68587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;F150 Radio Wiring&lt;/a&gt;  Wire #1 is the always on power, and wire #2 is for the ignition.  Your radio will likely have the same requirements (though via different pins on the connector).  If you have both of them connected, verify that you have the correct ones connected, for example using a voltmeter while you turn the ignition on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T06:42:48.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="256" CreationDate="2011-05-10T12:17:02.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for speakers around that location.  Could be a loose speaker or a damaged speaker that rattles on it own or when music is playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T12:17:02.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="779" CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:59:43.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Craftsman torque wrench cannot be put back in the box unless it's at 20%.  Granted, the plural (or even singular) of anecdote is not data, but I have always heard 20-25% of the max torque it's rated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T18:59:43.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="852" CreationDate="2011-05-10T19:56:22.450" Score="24" ViewCount="33343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find anyone that knows of any benefits of low-profile tires. All of the pros that I've asked have said there is no benefit. Naturally, the number of pros that I have available to ask is limited so I'm wondering what a wider audience will say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T04:31:13.163" Title="What are the benefits of low profile tires?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:19:07.547" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are major benefits on a track: you have much lower tire deformation with a low profile tire so you can corner harder. You can also accelerate and brake harder, and your tires get to temperature much faster as there is less rubber to warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a normal road having very low profile tires can be a negative - they don't soak up bumps as well as a higher profile tire so can be harder to control over bumps. You are also more likely to damage your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for performance on the road you can go for slightly lower profile. But going too low is a bad idea, despite various groups doing it for image purposes: with more chrome your wheels may look cooler:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T16:36:19.683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T16:36:19.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="916" CreationDate="2011-05-11T08:23:35.793" Score="4" ViewCount="2135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite often I encounter a vehicle that has exhaust with rather sharp smell similar to perfume. As far as I know this is attributed to the engine malfunctioning - normally working engine will exhaust gases without sharp smells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly causes the gasoline engine to produce exhaust with sharp perfume-like smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T14:08:47.960" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T23:41:23.917" Title="Why would gasoline engine exhaust smell like perfume?" Tags="|exhaust|smell|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="850" CreationDate="2011-05-11T09:58:46.307" Score="15" ViewCount="12826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this may be a silly question to those of you on here who are proper petrol-heads and this may even be a repeat question, but I could not find anything on it on here, so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages between cars with petrol engines vs those with diesel engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard people say things like diesel engines produce more raw power, but are slower to get there. As far as I know, diesel engines need to warm up the fuel using the glowlamps (I think that's what they're called) before ignition is possible. When I was a kid (grew up in South Africa) only the pickup trucks were diesel-powered and diesel used to be way cheaper back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not interested in the inner workings of petrol vs. diesel engines, but more in what would be of relevance to an everyday buyer when choosing between diesel vs. petrol. I realize this question might be a bit broad, but I'm looking for differences one can expect (in general) between modern petrol- and diesel-powered motor cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="538" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T09:04:04.827" Title="Diesel vs Petrol motorcars. Pro's and cons?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|diesel|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:33:42.183" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an everyday buyer you won't be interested in the high performance end of diesel or petrol, so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel engines typically rev lower and have more low speed torque - so you are less likely to stall off the line, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Petrol engines usually rev higher and get more power at 3-4 thousand revs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel seems to be getting more expensive - especially in the US.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel engines often run more efficiently - more miles per gallon (sometimes significantly more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel engines are noisier, although manufacturers are improving all the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the UK you pay less emissions taxes on diesel engines, as the tax is heavily based on CO2, not particulates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from a pure running cost perspective, diesel engines in cars are currently looking very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:32:14.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:32:14.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:46:05.797" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, diesel engines tend to be more reliable and more robust. They're also far more fuel efficient than their petrol counterparts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, diesel engines may be down on power but what they lose in power they make up for in torque. Torque is more noticeable in an urban environment because of the stop and go nature of traffic. You need quick acceleration of the line and diesel's are great for this...Look at trucks/lorries, they need lots of torque to get off of the line when carrying heavy loads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a premium that you pay over the diesel cars though, at least here in the States. Diesel is also more expensive because the of the new ultra-low sulfur content laws. BUT they certainly make up for in efficiency! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T16:46:05.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:52:01.303" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, the number of pros that I&#xA;have available to ask is limited so&#xA;I'm wondering what a wider audience&#xA;will say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about a question like this is that it isn't up for opinions.  The cost / benefit ratios can be measured.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grassroots Motorsports&lt;/a&gt; routinely does this sort of analysis.  For example, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/speed-holes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speed Holes&lt;/a&gt; by Per Schroeder (from the Feb. 2008 issue), Per compares a variety of plus-sizes (lower and lower profiles) on the test car (their BMW project car at the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some choice quotes that address your pro / con question above (snipped to emphasize but the whole article is online):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s a shocker for those hailing&#xA;from the bigger is better camp: The&#xA;18s didn’t win this little comparo.&#xA;For one, the 18-inch wheel and tire&#xA;package yielded a real degradation in&#xA;ride quality on our road loop. ... We’d&#xA;steer away from a setup this radical&#xA;on a daily-driven car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Interestingly, the 18-inch&#xA;combination felt more stable around&#xA;the steady-state skidpad than either&#xA;of the other combinations. The short,&#xA;short sidewalls could have been the&#xA;reason, as there’s simply less&#xA;vertical rubber to roll over when&#xA;facing high g-loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a&#xA;noticeable reduction in braking&#xA;performance, unfortunately, as we&#xA;could feel the extra mass fighting the&#xA;car. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize some of the above: lower profile generally trades ride quality for turning ability, sometimes sacrificing braking due to the increase in wheel mass.  Going too low, though, can push you past the point of losing in all categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T16:52:01.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:00:34.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know, I can understand why they would say this but I'm not sure I could fully describe it in words haha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it has to do with how oil is circulated through the rotary motor. If you're  going downhill the oil pick up may not be doing enough to circulate the oil through the engine when you're not in gear. I suppose that if you kept it in gear, the oil pick up would be operating at high rev's since you're cruising downhill anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure how this would affect exhaust temps...perhaps oil starvation is the reason why it does increase the temps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T17:00:34.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="769" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:21:25.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check the inner and outer tie rods for play? How are your ball joints and bushings up front? Were all of those inspected when getting the alignment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T17:21:25.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2011-05-11T18:08:29.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;@dude's answer reminded me to come back and look at this question. If it hadn't been for the RX-7 I would have argued pretty strongly that all manual cars can coast quite happily downhill in neutral, however I have learned from my mother in law, who has an RX-7, that rotary engines cars have some very odd problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running the engine for less than a couple of minutes can flood the engine so badly it needs to be towed for 5 minutes just to clear the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil flow is so marginal and leaky that bad weather can make the difference between it overheating or just failing to start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus other issues, so I reckon your question is almost the wrong way round. It could be &quot;is the RX7 the only car you can't coast downhill with&quot; :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T18:08:29.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-12T04:25:17.537" Score="5" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Ford F-250 here that doesn't have a light on the license plate. It's not obvious where the lights were before, but it looks like may have been replaced with sockets for a trailer's wiring plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the sockets as they are, where else can I install a lamp, and have it still be protected from boots and rocks? (This is a work truck for a builder.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:05:56.157" Title="Where is a good place for the license plate light on a 1991 Ford F-250?" Tags="|ford|truck|f-250|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="858" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:53:26.053" Score="3" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just disassembled the front brake caliper (dual piston) on my 1974 Ford F250 390 V8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a spring on each of the caliper bolts in between the brake pads. The springs are really rusty and one of them broke in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking on O'Reilly's site, I can't find replacement springs. Are these in use anymore? If so, what are they called? Where should I look for a new set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T18:31:53.650" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T18:31:53.650" Title="Do I need to replace the springs on my front disc brakes?" Tags="|ford|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:14:53.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to say yes, you should replace those springs, especially the broken one....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;rls=com.microsoft%3a%2a&amp;amp;biw=1259&amp;amp;bih=773&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=1974%20Ford%20F250%20brake%20caliper%20springs&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;oq=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Googling&lt;/a&gt; indicates that springs fitting your description are still in use and you should be able to mail order them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T17:14:53.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:01:23.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apple will not let you connect to the ELM 327 Bluetooth Interface as the manufacturer has not paid APPLE to support their bluetooth stack. Gotta Love EM'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of apps for the Android that work well with the ELM 327 Bluetooth modules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T22:01:23.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2041" CreationDate="2011-05-12T23:35:31.703" Score="4" ViewCount="4960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda B2300 pickup with its tailgate stuck in the up position. The release lever doesn't require as much force to pull any more, and only one end seems to be releasing when I pull it. Any ideas how to get the other side to disengage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T22:20:17.543" Title="How do I unstick my tailgate?" Tags="|truck|mazda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="868" CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:06:57.580" Score="16" ViewCount="14032" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between high octane and low octane fuel? I'm not asking if one is better than the other for my vehicle, specifically, but rather what occurs differently both scientifically and mechanically when either is used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T05:34:43.803" Title="Difference between high octane and low octane?" Tags="|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="869" CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:34:59.123" Score="7" ViewCount="13509" Body="&lt;p&gt;what are the pitfalls or things to look out for when manually wiring a switch from the battery to the horn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just moved to texas where they require vehicle inspections.  My horn doesn't work, a spring in the steering collumn needs to be replaced, and they want to charge $640 for it.   Since my car has 200,000 miles on it, and i have had some experience with soldering and circuitry i want to wire it up myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;has anyone done anything like this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a '93 Mazda Protege&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T22:20:55.077" Title="Manual horn switch" Tags="|electrical|mazda|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6671" CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:42:58.690" Score="4" ViewCount="2105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1965 Mopar 383 Big Block with factory air conditioning.  I would like to remove the air conditioning from the engine, including the A/C pump.  Unfortunately, the belts for the accessories are not laid out in such a way that I can simply remove the pump and reroute the belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the A/C configuration, the alternator and A/C pump are on the same double belt.  Then the water pump is on its own belt with a tensioner pulley, and the power steering pump is on its own belt with no tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the non-A/C configuration, the water pump and the alternator are on the same belt with no tensioner, and the power steering pump remains on its own, also with no tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with converting is that, obviously, the alternator and water pump pulleys are not on the same plane!  I am not sure what needs to change to get them to line up.  I suspect that I need some combination of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump pulley&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure.  Could someone who is familiar with the two engine configurations please help me understand what I need to change to get the alternator and water pump to be on the same belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T11:53:10.147" Title="How can I remove Factory Air Conditioning from a 1965 Mopar Big Block" Tags="|ac|conversion|pulley|chrysler|belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:56:58.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good place to start looking is the fuel filter, particularly if you didn't put fuel stabilizer in the tank before putting the bike in storage.  You can test to see if it's clogged by blowing on the line-in, but if you don't like gas on your lips fuel filters are cheap, and replacing them regularly is a good idea anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T03:56:58.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2011-05-13T05:28:42.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;only one end seems to be releasing when I pull it,&quot; I am assuming you mean the latch on only one side of the tailgate is releasing. That, coupled with the lightened pull, suggests to me that the other side cable has worn or broken. In the meantime, to un-stick it you'd have to find that cable and pull it. To fix the problem overall, you'll probably need to get a new cable, or at the very least have the old one reattached to the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T05:28:42.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2011-05-13T06:29:58.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may or may not be a permanent fix, but don't overlook the value of lubricating the gears and cables in the handle and the actual side latches themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stress of pulling on cables and gears may waste energy that could be used to pull the latches just that much farther. I've found that lubrication with WD-40 or Silicone spray to be a great method of dealing with a stuck tailgate. Spray it real good, and use the red tips that come with the spray cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The added benefit is that it will reduce wear and tear on the handle and latches, as it equates to less stress on the cables and more output on the latches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T06:29:58.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="862" CreationDate="2011-05-13T08:04:45.460" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;So-called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_number&quot;&gt;octane number&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is a measure of how much the air-fuel mix is resistant to detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the &quot;octane number&quot; is the more resistant it is and the more is can be compressed without exploding. The higher the pressure is at the point the air-fuel mix ignites the more efficient the engine works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern engines are designed for some rather high air-fuel mix pressure, if the mix ignites before that pressure is reached the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking&quot;&gt;engine just won't work right&lt;/a&gt;, because ignition will happen at the wrong moment of the engine cycle. That's why only fuel with right &quot;octane number&quot; should be used for any engine - depending on how that engine is designed, otherwise it just won't work right. The vehicle manual usually specifies which &quot;octane number&quot; is right for that vehicle engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="433" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T08:10:27.267" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T08:10:27.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="863" CreationDate="2011-05-13T09:37:33.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off I can say that I have done something like this, but with the ignition and not the horn - my friends ignition switch broke so we wired a bright red push button directly from the battery (well - actually a fused 12v line inside the car) to the starter motor coil - it has since worked like a champ for nearly two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off - DO NOT wire directly from the battery, there is always a potential for a short (say in an accident or due to your own mistake) and those lead-acid batteries can be unpleasant when they explode. Nothing will ruin your day than having a car fire after your accident, use an inline fuse at least, using the cars existing fuse/breaker system would be better (i.e. use an existing 12v line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to splice the 12v from the accessory 12v line in the harness (it should be exposed near your radio) Since this is fused and isolated from any more important components. &lt;em&gt;TYPICALLY&lt;/em&gt; the horn is on its own branch, just because it needs to be activated by the alarm system and should be able to honk when the key is out (the accessory 12v is usually shut off when the key is taken out), however this may not be important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; way would be to look up the wiring diagram in your car and find which wire in the harness corresponds to the horn 12v supply (it may be tied to some other 12v line - like internal illumination) and which wire corresponds to the horn, -tie the two together with a switch and you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;stupid college student way&quot; (I only say this because this is what we did with my friends ignition) to approach the problem would be to pull a wire through the firewall and directly to the horn, tied to some random 12v line near the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for placing the switch... I would avoid opening up the steering wheel, but thats just my squeemishness around airbag systems, although I don't know if your car has a driver airbag so it may be clear. And depending on the rules in texas, you may be required to attach it to the steering wheel somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T09:37:33.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="857" CreationDate="2011-05-13T11:42:25.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local NAPA store can order them.  It is part number UP 82116A and contains springs for both wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T11:42:25.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="872" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:48:58.497" Score="-8" ViewCount="22691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of an easy way to disable the check-engine light for a bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a vehicle that I'll be selling soon.  A couple of months ago, the check-engine light came on.  I took the car to the dealer, and they said the codes were 300 and 302, which mean misfiring cylinders.  I spent $500 to have a number of minor repairs completed (sparkplugs replaced, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This week, the light came back on.  I stopped by an AutoZone for a CheckEngine diagnostic, and the same codes came up as before.  Since 60 days have passed, the dealer won't check the car for free, even though they clearly didn't fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car runs perfectly, so the Check-Engine light is just an eyesore at this point.  Still, I think it will scare away buyers, even though nothing is wrong w/ the car.  Do you know of a way to disable that light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: This is an old question, and I've moved on. I left the Check-engine light as-is, and traded the car in to a (different) dealer; I needed a bigger car for a new baby. I took a hit on the trade-in value because of the check-engine light, but I'm okay w/ it. &lt;strong&gt;Maybe stop down-voting this into oblivion?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastEditorUserId="569" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T15:33:41.070" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T13:00:24.267" Title="Easy way to temporarily disable Check Engine light?" Tags="|jeep|chrysler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:26:39.823" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: Tools that check the code normally can also clear them (some handheld ones are cheap).  However they only stay cleared until the next warm up cycle that takes the measurement. (Note: emissions testing machines will realize if the code has been cleared and if a good measurement has not yet been taken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the bigger problem is this is completely unethical.  Instead of hiding the engine light, tell the truth.  Show the dealership invoice and explain the situation.  The car might be &quot;running fine&quot; but the dealer did not fix all the problems or created new ones.  The check-engine light is not an eyesore, it is an indication that either something is wrong with the engine/system or that a sensor is malfunctioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T17:51:41.827" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T17:51:41.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="928" CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:56:43.067" Score="3" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good resource to see safety stats/specs on 3rd-row seating?  In other words, I know &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safercar.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safecar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has stats on front and side impact ratings, etc, but I've yet to see a site that describes safety for passengers sitting in the third row of specific SUVs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I've been looking at Jeep Commanders lately (used), but I'm interested in how safe it is to have a child (w/ carseat) strapped in the third row, not just for Jeep Commanders, but for several third-row-seating makes/models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:16:21.913" Title="Good resource for 3rd-row seating safety?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="917" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:58:53.787" Score="5" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to order a fuel door for my 2006 Altima on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanpartsdirect.com&quot;&gt;http://www.nissanpartsdirect.com&lt;/a&gt; but they don't ask for a color. Where can I go to get a new fuel door that's painted the same color as my car? I have no desire to paint it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="61" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T18:26:28.293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T17:56:38.457" Title="Can I order parts that are painted stock colors?" Tags="|nissan|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="969" CreationDate="2011-05-13T20:28:02.377" Score="3" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;A neighbour of mine hit my (wing) mirror with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sliotar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sliotar&lt;/a&gt; and it's cracked/smashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I replace just the glass&lt;/strong&gt; (the actual mirror itself)?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Preferably doing it myself.&#xA;As oppposed to having to buy a spare mirror and have it painted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Details:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; Volkswagen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Bora &lt;em&gt;(Comfort Line)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 2002&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electric Mirrors: &lt;code&gt;Yes&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Name:&lt;/strong&gt; Borat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="572" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T22:13:25.750" Title="Can I replace the glass mirror in my (wing) mirror?" Tags="|electrical|paint|replace|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="879" CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:50:12.113" Score="6" ViewCount="7495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add some fluid additive (Lucas) to my transmission, but I don't want to overfill it.  The dipstick has add, warm, and hot for measuring.  So how hot is the hot level?  My temperature gauge only gets up one third of the way going 70 on the freeway, and the fluid only gets up around the bottom of &quot;HOT&quot;.  Can I safely add more fluid in that range (less than a quart)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  For the record, this vehicle is a 2000 Dodge Neon.  As jmort indicated, I filled everything up over time and the level didn't really go up too much (maybe 1/4 or so of the way up on the HOT portion of the dipstick -- the bottle was 24 oz).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastEditorUserId="341" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T21:52:29.813" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T03:41:20.237" Title="How hot is &quot;HOT&quot; on a transmission fluid (ATF) dip stick?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-05-13T23:27:55.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, you're not the only one who had to endure this pain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an old KZ650 I pulled the carbs from what it looks like a similar design.  Like yours, it was older and the plastic air intake tubes were very stiff.  Here is what I had to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull gas tank off and disconnect from carbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the seat off to access the air filter and air box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull out the air filter and you will see the 4 intake tubes to the carbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air tubes to each carb are suppose to be pulled back into to the air box.  This is very difficult to do when the plastic is so dried out and stiff.  I used lots of WD-40 and tools to wedge them out.  There are a few websites out there where you can order new tubes if you end up destroying the air tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you pull those air tubes back, you can loosen up the front side of the carbs from the intake and pull the entire carb assembly back and out.  You will also need to disconnect the throttle and possible one or two bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cleaned out every carb and put it back together.  Sliding those individual air tubes back forward and into place took a lot of work and the help of a friend.  I got it back together, but I really damaged and scratched up the air tubes from the air box.  It worked great though, just looked bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T05:02:29.617" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T05:02:29.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="875" CreationDate="2011-05-14T07:18:34.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely. By far the easiest is to go to a scrapyard and buy one, take it apart and replace the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straightforward on most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T07:18:34.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2011-05-14T07:24:44.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add more fluid, but it's best to do it slowly. Your transmission has a lot of gears and tunnels and holes for transmission fluid to go, and it's important to get the fluid down in there in order to get an accurate reading on the dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adding fluid, take another ride out on the freeway for a few minutes and make sure you go through all of the gears. When you come back, park on a level surface, keep the motor running, and check the fluid again. Be extra careful you don't overfill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T07:24:44.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2011-05-14T12:52:51.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another difference is that the diesel engines cost more to produce and to maintain. So the diesel version is almost certainly more expensive to buy than the equivalent petrol car, and it usually costs a bit more in servicing. So the rule of the thumb is to buy diesel if you're going to drive more than ~10000km per year or so, depending on fuel costs, taxes etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T12:52:51.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-14T20:49:44.903" Score="20" ViewCount="226743" Body="&lt;p&gt;1997 Chevy 1500&#xA;My right rear wheel is stuck or fused to the drum.  I can get the lugnuts off, but no luck getting the wheel off. I took it to a tire place and they couldn't remove it either, and said I would probably be forced to get someone to take a torch to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other options besides this?  Is it possible to take the axle off without removing the wheel?  The tire store tried taking the lugnuts off and driving around/over curbs to loosen it, but no dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="574" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T16:21:30.287" Title="Wheel stuck or fused to drum" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:14:56.487" Score="4" ViewCount="1891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the way my tires look after running my car through one of the better drive-through car washes. They look nice and black, but not shiny at all. And it lasts, at least until the next rain. However, all the tire dressings I've seen on store shelves promise the shiny &quot;wet look&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good, cheap dressing that will last and won't give the shiny look? As I said in the title, I'm willing to mix up something if it'll work and give the results I'm looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="575" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T21:01:03.337" Title="Cheap (or mix-at-home) tire dressing that gives flat/matte finish" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-15T00:34:52.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a job for a torch to heat up the drum and see if you can get it to loosen up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a piece of wood against the back side of tire/wheel and hitting it with sledge hammer?  Of course, do this while taking proper safety measures, jack stands, and restraints. Be very careful and prepare for that moment of the wheel breaking free and the truck itself moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T00:41:19.953" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T00:41:19.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="890" CreationDate="2011-05-15T01:00:57.733" Score="10" ViewCount="7532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if the methods a vehicle decides when to turn on the oil change light have to do with the qualities of the motor oil used in the last oil change. I have heard that the vehicle's computer calculates when the oil change light turns on due to number of engine startups, average speed of trip, time before thermostat opens. Now all of these (are there more?) can not infer the quality of oil engine with a possible except to the time it takes for the thermostat opening which may be a slight way to indirectly infer the type of oil last used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this question because supposedly synthetic motor oil lasts longer than conventional and if that is true I might wait longer after the oil change light turns based on my knowledge of how many hard/highway miles I have put on my vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T03:28:51.650" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T17:44:39.430" Title="How does the change oil light system work and does it matter what type of oil you use for it to work properly?" Tags="|oil|lubrication|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-15T02:30:37.637" Score="3" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;My van is not able to drive over a curb. Just a normal curb, that other vehicles are able to drive their wheels over, and mine is not. What might be the problem and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a Mercedes-Benz 308D T1 van, year 1992, model 602.316.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T06:58:15.677" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T06:58:15.677" Title="my van is not able to drive over a curb" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2011-05-15T07:41:50.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about newer cars, however in older cars the &quot;check oil&quot; light is far less complicated - there is simply a sensor somewhere inside the engine block which turns the check oil light on if the oil goes below a certain level.  At times when the oil in my engine has been low I've noticed that the light turns on and off (or even flickers) depending on whether I'm driving up or down a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not got any direct experience with newer cars, but I can't see how it would be able to detect what type of oil is being used - my suspicion would be that it is based on engine use, mileage and the last time that the light was reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your car you may find that there is a manual reset procedure that you can use to reset the light without needing the use of the manufactures diagnostic tools, for example see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4663244_change-oil-light-gms-chevrolet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Reset Change Oil Light on GMs, Chevrolet&lt;/a&gt; for a method which supposedly works for GM vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="579" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T07:41:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="927" CreationDate="2011-05-15T16:30:01.707" Score="18" ViewCount="3885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was sitting outside, eating my lunch the other day, and a small bus (you know, one of the short ones) pulled up to the sandwich shop I was eating at.  I noticed that the driver got out of the bus, ordered her food and waited for the roughly 10 minutes until the she received her sandwich and then proceeded back to the bus and ate her sandwich, all the while the bus was still idling the entire time!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My natural assumption is that this is a HUGE waste of gas, and thus prompted the thought &quot;Why?!&quot;.  So my question is this, are there any distinct advantages to idling a vehicle over shutting it off, and then starting it back up again?  If so, is there a general 'time limit' for idling the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T00:24:34.027" Title="Are there any advantages of idling a vehicle vs. turning it off and back on again?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-15T16:35:29.690" Score="11" ViewCount="2443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '07 Chevy Malibu, whose turn signal doesn't seem to disengage whenever I make a turn, unless it's more than roughly 160 degrees (a U-turn). What are some of the possible causes and are there any easy solutions, as this is quite annoying to both me and the drivers behind when I forget to manually turn it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-07-02T21:08:09.003" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T03:23:06.897" Title="How do I stop the 'never-ending' turn signal?" Tags="|chevrolet|turn-signal|malibu|epsilon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2011-05-15T17:44:39.430" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://assets.cobaltnitra.com/teams/repository/export/975/c7820afba1004895010145efa6b30/975c7820afba1004895010145efa6b30.pdf&quot;&gt;reference pdf&lt;/a&gt; for GM's Oil Life Monitor System.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does the system work?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  The GM Oil Life Monitor System is not a mileage counter. It is actually a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil. Over the years, millions of test miles have been accumulated to calibrate the system for a variety of vehicles. The system was first introduced in 1988 and is now on more than 10 million GM vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I have to use special oil?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  The GM Oil Life Monitor System is calibrated for use with standard “Starburst” mineral- based automotive engine oil. Synthetic oils are not required except for the Corvette. Make sure to read the owner’s manual and select the viscosity and oil grade that is correct for your engine. Any oil selected for use should carry the ILSAC “Starburst”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus it appears the Oil Life Monitor System &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; depend on which type of oil you use for it to give an accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T17:44:39.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:48:06.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that car specifically, but it sounds like the auto-cancel mechanism is bent or mis-installed. Since it is integral with the steering column, you will probably need to pull off your steering wheel and get into where the switch mates with the column. There will be a plate or ring on the column with a tab or the like that will move a lever in the indicator switch when the wheel is turned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this ring installed upside down in an old Porsche with an aftermarket steering wheel. The indicator wouldn't cancel because the tab was in the wrong place. Turned the ring over, put it all back together and it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T00:48:06.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2011-05-16T05:37:18.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with calling the local Toyota shop and seeing if someone in the service dept will help you out. If they don't help you then I know that at the winter temps you see 0w40 is what everyone I have ever talked to or read on other forums run in their diesels in your region. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T05:37:18.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="888" CreationDate="2011-05-16T05:52:29.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is going to be completely personal opinion. If it is less than 40F outside, I will go out 15-20 minutes before i need to leave in the mornings and let my truck idle, to warm up the block but also to warm up the cab so I'm not freezing while driving. When the summer rolls around and its over 110F and I will not be out of the truck for more than 20 minutes, I let it idle and keep the air running. Now does this waste fuel? To some I'm sure it does but it does not to me. The old diesel motors, before all this EPA crap was put on, could idle all day and all night and it wouldn't hurt the motor at all. Gas motors it isn't great to idle it, but also I have never heard of anything major happen that was solely based on idling a gas motor. But again I think its all based on personal preference. I know people that will idle their truck while they are in the grocery store for 2 hours, I also know people that turn their truck off even if their just checking their mailbox for 2 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T05:52:29.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:03:46.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the freon level, but it sounds like the compressor. In my truck when the A/C compressor started to go out that exact thing happened, the air would blow out warm and humid. The easiest thing to check first is to ensure that the A/C condenser fan is working. It is in front of the motor, it blows air across the smaller radiator that cools the compressor. When the compressor over heats it gives the exact symptoms you described with the warm humid air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T06:03:46.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="896" CreationDate="2011-05-16T12:26:07.757" Score="7" ViewCount="27508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Polo Classic, 1.6L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently it started to be slightly jerky when in idle and whilst driving. There is also a loss of power, a strong fuel smell, and sounding slightly like a VW Beetle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking it is either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone lend some advice on how to determine the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="583" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T11:30:20.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T12:12:11.150" Title="Car is sluggish, jerking, and idles rough" Tags="|fuel-system|vw|troubleshooting|air-filter|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2011-05-16T12:45:42.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other possible sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum Leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other Ignition item (Plug Wires, Distributer, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really poor fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air Filter Blocked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust Blockage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with the spark plugs.  Take them out and see if they can give any indication as to the true problem. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/642/how-do-i-know-when-to-change-my-spark-plug/649#649&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more info (While you have them out, replace them if you need to).  Then start checking/replacing easy items like:  Looking for disconnected hoses, checking the air filter, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T12:53:24.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="899" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:44:20.663" Score="12" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the panels circled in yellow are headlight washers and exist on many cars now. However, on several BMWs I have noticed an extra panel, circled in red.  It is not symmetric and I have only noticed it to be located more on the passenger side.  What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gScsh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-16T14:50:37.330" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T19:32:18.847" Title="What is this panel on the front of BMWs for?" Tags="|bmw|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="897" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:53:11.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red one is likely to be for a pull hitch.  If you get stuck you can insert a screw with the hoop on the end and it will allow someone to pull you out with a chain or winch, putting load in the appropriate place (not the bumper).  The screw device is probably in your trunk somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the owners manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pxvj4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-16T18:17:05.927" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T18:17:05.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-05-16T22:22:20.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that it didn't work and then did with no changes points to a problem in either the electrical or mechanical linkage and it is the type of problem that is the most difficult to figure out. As a rule compressors work or they don't and when the freon is too low they have a tendency to short cycle, which cools but not well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T22:22:20.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="907" CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:03:48.090" Score="8" ViewCount="1684" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/249/how-to-fix-leaky-tires-after-2-shops-couldnt&quot;&gt;How to fix leaky tires after 2 shops couldn&amp;#39;t&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I bought my car new I have had one tire that goes to 20psi every 30 days.  Discount tire said theres no leak, but obviously something is wrong.  Any idea what I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2009 TSX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;Afer a 3rd trip to the mechanic (2nd at dealer) they found a nail in my tire.  Apparently the submersion test still didnt help at 70psi inflation.  But, he said he found it visually and had nearly missed it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T12:42:04.130" Title="Tire runs flat every 30 days" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-05-19T00:09:33.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="901" CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:12:53.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put soap and water in a spray bottle, spray it on the tire and rim, look for bubbles. Also spray on the valve stem as the valve can leak as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T02:12:53.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2011-05-17T05:45:15.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look for subsidies in your country for diesel, that might make owning an diesel vehicle (and the related extra maintenance costs it brings with it) worthwhile. In India, we usually get a number around 100kms / per day. If your daily commute is greater than that, diesel is economical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running comforts: you should know that you can't (or shouldn't) rev your diesels to max RPM - because most diesel engines provide max power at mid RPM. So by doing this - all you are doing is heating up the engine and damaging it in long runs. So essentially, if you are going for high-revving experience / sound, diesels are not your choice. They make quite a bit of noise as well, so if your ideal driving experience involves a silent ride, diesels don't cut it either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="589" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T05:45:15.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="901" CreationDate="2011-05-17T07:41:48.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/85/larry&quot;&gt;user Larry&lt;/a&gt; suggests in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/901/tire-runs-flat-every-30-days/902#902&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt; you can go the bicycle way - detach the wheel (together with the rim) and submerge it into water. This will surely show whether there's an air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T07:41:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="906" CreationDate="2011-05-17T11:19:08.610" Score="9" ViewCount="46524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a bubble in my front right tire's sidewall on my 2006 Mazda3 2.3L (FWD, open diff).  So it needs to be replaced.  The replacement tire will end up going on the rear as it's time to rotate them anyway.  Will any damage be done by putting the new tire back on the drives in 5,000 miles after the next rotation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically: Am I going to damage the diff by putting tires with a 20,000 mile wear difference on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:19:05.130" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T19:55:23.360" Title="Best way to approach a tire with a bubble in the sidewall" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="905" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:20:15.657" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what damage might happen to the diff, but on the front axle this might cause the car to pull one direction or at least create extra stress due to one wheel gripping differently than the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest replacing the tires in pairs.  Although if you only had a couple thousand miles wear, then it might not be a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:20:15.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="901" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:55:22.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are you have a poor seal between the tyre and the rim. This is normally caused by slight corrosion in the Alloy which then leads to a rough surface which won't seal properly, allowing air to very slowly seep out - It is likely that this won't cause air to escape fast enough to be obvious in a bubble test - after all you're only losing 10psi a month...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to have the tyre removed and re-fitted with a smear of sealing compound around the edge of the rim, which will help to fill in the rough surface and seal it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: While the tyre is off, clean up the beading surface of the rim as well, this will help smooth off the surface and remove any loose dirt or corrosion that has built up around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:55:22.690" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-17T13:13:30.117" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my car a while back. The trick I used was as follows. Loosen the nuts right off, but don't remove them (leaving three or four threads on), so they restrain the wheel when it comes free. Jack the car up and support it solidly on stands - I also put the spare wheel under the sill on the side I am working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a 2-3lb club hammer, and gently tap around the rim, working in a semi-random criss-cross fashion, e.g 12 o'clock, 7, 3, 10, 5, etc. If you have enough room, do so from the back as well. This should eventually break the corrosion seal that is holding the wheel on - be careful as it might shift suddenly (hence leaving the nuts on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once off, you should be able to see signs of where it was sticking, such as fresh orangey rust on the hub. Clean these areas up with a bit of sandpaper so the wheel is easier to refit. Before refitting the wheel use a bit of copper grease on the mating surfaces to prevent the problem from re-occuring, but &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; put any on the studs/nuts or anywhere near the brakes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T13:13:30.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="922" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:38:20.157" Score="5" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an hour meter for my engine in the middle of my tachometer. It has stopped incrementing when the engine is on. I pulled the tach (which works fine) and all of the four wires that attach to it are well connected. How can I go about troubleshooting this? Is there a common failure mode for these? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is a Westerbeke diesel, a 1973 Four-91. The tach is an aftermarket part from Motorola. The hour meter set into it is analog - it looks like a small odometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T20:21:43.453" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T14:49:13.450" Title="Hour meter stopped turning" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="812" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:55:37.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the weight, be sure that you buy oil has a &quot;C&quot; code in the service symbol. The &quot;C&quot; indicates that the oil was formulated for a diesel engine; gasoline engines use an &quot;S&quot; code. The top half of the ring should say &quot;API Service C-something&quot;. Note that you can have an oil that works for both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logo looks like this one:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZpfv.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T18:17:28.273" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T18:17:28.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1031" CreationDate="2011-05-18T07:28:25.833" Score="23" ViewCount="336949" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK vehicle manuals say owner must replace spark plugs every N miles. Suppose he fails to do so and a single spark plug unexpectedly dies in an engine with multiple cylinders right in a freeway. What likely happens to the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T21:41:58.063" Title="What happens if a single spark plug unexpectedly goes down in a multi-cylinder engine?" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-05-18T07:59:11.337" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs are normally a wear and tear kind of part instead of an &quot;all or nothing&quot; kind of failure.  Over time, they get worn or build up deposits from years of use and they become less effective and efficient.  I have rarely ever heard of a spark plug failing 100% all of a sudden.  Over time, it would contribute to reduced gas mileage, rough idle, and sluggish performance.  They recommend them to be replaced at a certain interval to keep top running performance.  It is a very common part of a &quot;tune up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it did some how fail, I would imagine it would be like the time I had a car where a spark plug wire got hit by the cooling fan and cut it.  The car lost a lot of power as it was only now running on 5 out of the 6 cylinders.  The car had only a top speed of like 45/50mph and it sounded like it was working really hard and very sluggish, so I pulled over immediately to investigate. It was very noticeable, but it did not present any immediate hazard other then requiring me to slow down and get off to the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T07:59:11.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="914" CreationDate="2011-05-18T09:54:17.937" Score="8" ViewCount="3319" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, where can one find information about the quantity of fuel that is left in the vehicle's tank when the warning light turns on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, in a Suzuki Swift GLX (auto) 2010 model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="590" LastEditorUserId="590" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T16:15:09.517" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:15:09.517" Title="How to know how much fuel is left when the light turns on" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="913" CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:58:01.497" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up in your owner's manual how capacity your fuel tank has.  Next time you fuel up, take note of the difference.  In my car it's roughly 2 gallons (7.5 liters).  However, realize that modern cars use fuel as a coolant for the fuel pump and running the tank dry often may damage the fuel pump over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T12:58:01.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="913" CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:03:41.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up in your owner's manual and it should tell you how much fuel is left when the light comes on. You can always confirm it by following Parker's answer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="591" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T13:03:41.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2011-05-18T14:04:50.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the perfumes I know have a lot of carbon content (Alcohol based). So if I am to take a quick guess, this might be unburnt fuel being pumped out in gaseous form, a precursor to blackening of your tail pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or your vehicle might just be wooing the beetle behind - who knows? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="589" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T14:04:50.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:56:38.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most if not all of those type parts are paint to match. If you call the dealer they should be able to give you a price quote painted. Our parts department would send it over to our body shop for it to be painted before you picked it up. There is an additional charge for this however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check your local salvage yards as it may be more economical to purchase one from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T17:56:38.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2011-05-18T18:17:31.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does this look like what you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8x1fX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T18:17:31.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2011-05-18T18:24:47.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the 6 cylinder you can check the status of the belt as indicated below, if it's at the service limit you should replace the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OuBPp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T18:24:47.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="921" CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:48:45.483" Score="14" ViewCount="203542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Ford Focus, and while the car itself is good quality, I have now ruined two tires in three months by merely driving over a screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford offers no road hazard on their tires, so I am pretty annoyed with Ford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Costco and Discount Tires advise me I should either replace all 4 tires, or at least replace 2 tires.  They also tell me that the replacement tires should be of the same speed rating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can go to Ford and get ONE other tissue thin breaks on sight good for two month Hankook Optimo no road hazard OEM tire for $135.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can go to Discount and get TWO Yokohamas with road hazard for $100 a piece magically costing $280 total by the time they are installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And both Discount and Costco will sell me 4 tires with road hazard for about $550.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discount will sell me ONE Yokohama Avid (touring s I think), but they advise against it.&#xA;The Ford service rep offers no advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very tempted to get the one Yokohama, because of the road hazard, and I am trying to determine what the impact of having one different tire amongst three really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="592" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T13:24:33.217" Title="Is it okay to replace one tire (of four matched tires) with a completely different model of tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="920" CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:11:51.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is NO.  It is never a good idea to replace a single tire, because each tire has different performance characteristics.  You may not notice it during day-to-day driving, but any non-ordinary actions, such as swerving to avoid an accident, turning or braking in a rain storm, etc you may suddenly find the car doing something completely unexpected.  Also, check with your insurance company - they may decide that because the car was &quot;improperly maintained&quot; that your coverage would not be good in the case of an accident with mis-matched tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would not drive with different tires on the front and back.  Even similar tires will have different behaviors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple screw puncture should be repairable, however, unless you continued to drive on the flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T20:11:51.680" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:31:19.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's analog, the tachometer itself works, the signal wires are connected and sending signal (use a multimeter to test the actual voltage, the wire(s) could be damaged), then it's possible that the hour meter is broken mechanically.  It seems to me like investigating warranty replacement may be the best idea if applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T20:31:19.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:06:39.913" Score="7" ViewCount="10389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced one of the half-shafts on my Saabaru with a new aftermarket part.  I know that the old factory one I took off can be rebuilt, and if I'd bought a rebuilt unit I'd've had to put down a hefty core deposit.  Does anyone know if it's possible to get a &quot;refund&quot; on an old core without having bought a rebuilt unit?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T15:10:14.383" Title="Can I get a core refund without an exchange?" Tags="|parts|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="920" CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:20:25.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've just driven over a screw you ought to be able to get the tyre repaired. I've had it done before and they basically glue a rubber plug into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, it's not usually a good idea to have mismatched tyres. The rules will vary depending where you are, but some countries (particularly France) won't allow mismatched tyres across the same axle. The UK allows them, but they must all be the same size and speed rating. Obviously I don't know what the rules are in the US or whether it varies from state to state. Mismatch between axles is less of a problem (my car has different size tyres between front and back axles as standard), but best avoided if you can. Most tyre dealers here will insist on fitting new tyres to the back axle if only two are being replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T14:20:25.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="923" CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:10:14.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts stores take a deposit when you don't have the old part, and refund you the deposit when you return the core. Since you didn't give them a deposit, I doubt very seriously they will give you any money for it. You may want to try an axle re-builder in your area, CV axles are easy to rebuild and a lot of cites have local re-builders, they may be willing to buy it from you as they will be able to rebuild and then sell it directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T15:10:14.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="417" CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:52:25.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was originally in the &quot;follow the directions&quot; camp but after I didn't rotate tires on one car because I was being lazy, I found a real advantage of not rotating. Not rotating is a diagnostic tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't rotate your tires you are more likely to notice a problem. A wheel out of balance, alignment problem or worn wheel bearing. Thus, the right answer may be more a function of your goals than what is generally best. If you want the maximum mileage on a set of tires, rotate. If you want to identify problems early, don't rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="598" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T13:52:25.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="888" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:19:45.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the bus has a diesel motor, the answer is yes. As an old German Mercedes mechanic told me, &quot;with a gas engine, the primary contributor to wear is hours of operation but with a diesel it is the number of times it is started&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that really means is not the number of times you engage the starter motor but the number of times the motor is heat cycled. To support that idea, when I lived in Olympia, Washington there was a diesel logomotive that was used for moving cars in a small switch yard. I seldom saw the locomotive in use but it just sat there at idle 24/7. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="598" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T18:19:45.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="873" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:12:37.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't find anything official like for the front and side impact ratings.  Those are industry standard tests that are mandated and applicable to all vehicles, I am not aware of anything similar for the third row.  Because those tests are very expensive nobody is going to do them without someone forcing them to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was looking I would use the side impact results as a close approximation, the structure of the side of the vehicle should be somewhat consistent.  But also use a bit of common sense as well.  Those little rear facing seats that pop up in the back of your Volvo station wagon might not be as good as real seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T21:12:37.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-05-20T22:12:29.833" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a spark plug fail completely and another one hardly work on an old 5 cylinder Audi GT coupe sport. It was as rough as a badger, but you could still drive it back home to sort it out. Certainly not fatal:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T22:12:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="932" CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:01:41.000" Score="26" ViewCount="252248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently overfilled a 4 stroke lawnmower engine with oil. It has been run for about 1.5 hours while overfilled. It smokes a lot right after being started but after 30 seconds or so the smoke clears. Now that I have figured out what I did I plan to drain the oil down to the &quot;high&quot; mark and keep running it. What sort of damage might I have done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T00:39:30.480" Title="What are the risks of overfilling a small engine with oil?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2011-05-21T20:19:00.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil level is too high it can actually bend the crankshaft. If the crankshaft is striking the oil when the engine is running it can ruin the engine. It doesn't sound like you have done any permanent damage with what you have described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T20:19:00.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2011-05-22T04:56:05.350" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over filling an engine with oil can cause it too &quot;foam&quot; the oil, which reduces it's lubrication properties. If you lower the level to proper amounts you may have added some wear, but it's unlikely that you caused serious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T04:56:05.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2011-05-22T09:26:25.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not actually a solution, more of a workaround: can you raise the idle speed slightly? I know it is supposed to run happily at 700-800 but I had use of a very old truck that had a problem with torque at idle that we failed to diagnose (it wasn't worth much so we didn't try too hard) and our fix was to make it idle about 120rpm faster. Solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T09:26:25.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-22T10:30:09.467" Score="8" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something like a vault with a number lock that can be attached to the car and where I can store the car key in it, while I'm gone surfing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually something similar like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000I66JEM&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; but I don't have a tow hitch. So maybe even something which I can chain around the wheels or another strong part of the car would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="603" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T01:53:50.947" Title="What's a good key vault system that can be attached to the car while gone surfing?" Tags="|security|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-14T19:34:08.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="920" CreationDate="2011-05-22T19:54:24.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real answer is yes and no. It's perfectly safe to drive four completely separate tires as long as tires on the same axle are the same size. It's probably a good idea to get tires with the same tread life so that they wear evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the performance that Chris was talking about goes, the tires have an addition property between them. So if one had NO traction you'd have 50% performance, but if one was a snow tire and the other was summer you'd drive just fine in non-snowy conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, get matching tires per axle to save yourself from looking like an idiot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T19:54:24.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-22T20:10:32.907" Score="4" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;'95 BMW 540i Automatic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I drive for a short (5 min) trip say go in to a store and come out. The engine will start and idle fine, but upon gear selection the car will try to drive through the brakes until it dies. If I restart and let it warm up the car will still try to drive through the brakes, but it will not die (back end torqued down and idle about 400).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then while driving it will shift at about 1000 rpms, thus keeping the rpms at 500. It feels like the car is in 4th or 5th just about all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T22:54:03.897" Title="How to fix an electronic transmission that chooses overdrive and torque converter lock" Tags="|bmw|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2011-05-22T20:16:47.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with BMW transmission specifically, but it sounds like your TCC (Torque Converter Solenoid) has failed. It's common on GM vehicles, when to solenoid fails the Torque converter stays locked up, when you come to a stop it's like not pushing in the clutch on a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T20:16:47.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="934" CreationDate="2011-05-23T01:53:50.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sanzospecialties.com/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&amp;amp;productID=770&amp;amp;categoryID=59&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something like the Lock Box KeyGuard Pro&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T01:53:50.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:18:00.390" Score="11" ViewCount="3075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed an increase of road noise while driving my car and I'm wondering if it might be the wheel bearing. I think it's coming from one of the rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to identify and confirm if a wheel bearing is worn, and therefore in need of replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T12:58:25.927" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T12:58:25.927" Title="Diagnosing a worn wheel bearing" Tags="|noise|diagnostics|wheel-bearing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:16:54.277" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing front wheel bearings on a RWD truck.  Inner and Outer.   Will 14oz tube of grease be plenty?   Is there a rough estimate per bearing or does it depend on the type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:24:48.747" Title="Amount of grease needed on a typical wheel bearing." Tags="|bearing|grease|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:58:39.020" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy way to check is remove each wheel, and rotate the disc. If you can remove the disc as well to get closer to the hub that would be even better. If the bearing rotates but not smoothly (i.e. having a sandy/grainy feeling) then that is likely the culprit. This is how I was able to track down a worn rear wheel bearing on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T19:58:39.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-23T20:31:43.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably try spraying some PB blaster around where the wheel meets the drum. If you come back every hour (three to four applications should do the trick) to respray the area I bet you that stuff will probably works its way through whatever is keeping it seized on...more than likely rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure to let it sit overnight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T20:31:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:32:19.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat it with a blow torch, it will expand slightly and dislodge it. I had the same problem with a brake disc and heating it made it come off very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T23:32:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-24T08:02:05.963" Score="3" ViewCount="3523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a bit of trouble with my car; it's a Ford Fiesta 1.4 Zetec (2008 model). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These past few weeks when I accelerate hard the rev meter rises steadily up to a point and then shoots to the top very quickly. It does this in every gear. It's making driving very difficult at the moment and it means I have to accelerate very slowly. This is fine on side roads but as soon as I hit a motorway it causes me problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worrying how much this is going to cost to repair as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this problem before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T23:20:06.513" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T05:25:01.207" Title="Problem with Clutch or Gearbox" Tags="|ford|clutch|fiesta|zetec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2011-05-24T09:24:52.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way is to jack up (and support) the car, then attempt to shake the wheel. Hold it at top and bottom and try and shake it vertically, then repeat horizontally. There should be very little, if any, play in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Dude318is says, a grainy feeling when rotating is another way to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T09:24:52.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="944" CreationDate="2011-05-24T12:43:56.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your clutch is worn out, but that's a few years (and certainly) many miles too soon. Does the clutch slip in every gear? And always at a certain speed/rpm? It could be worn out plates, but also a broken pressure bearing? How does the clutch feel when shifting gears? Does it operate smoothly without any grinding (or other weird) sounds? Please try the following: Park at a empty parking place with lots of free space around you. Put the gear in 1st and gently engage the clutch without pressing the throttle. When the engine stalls your clutch might be alright, in which case we need more information, and when the engine keeps running without moving the car your clutch is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T12:43:56.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2011-05-24T12:48:31.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things can happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crankshaft could be bent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seals and gaskets could be destroyed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very high crankcase pressure can lead to oil coming out of the crankcase ventilation (which might destroy your pistons if it enters your cylinders through your intake system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eric Fossum's remark about turning the oil to foam is a very important one. It leads to reduced lubrication inside the engine which can lead to terminal engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T18:26:25.930" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T18:26:25.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="944" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:31:37.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a clutch that's reached the end of the line. If you're applying throttle and the rev's start to climb faster than the car is accelerating then the clutch is slipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clutch can go that quickly... depends on driver skill. I've seen clutches last 180k and still look fresh. There are other folks that have destroyed their clutches in less than 40k as well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like your from the UK, a job like that takes approx 4-5hrs, not sure what the hourly labor charges are over there. Expect to pay around 100-150 quid for a new clutch + pressure plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T16:31:37.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="950" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:50:21.853" Score="4" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace my battery a few months ago. After I started my car back up I noticed that my radio wanted me to enter a code (as a security measure I guess). I don't have the owners manual since I got this car used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find this code? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T19:14:19.527" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:14:19.527" Title="What code do I enter to fix my radio on a Mitsubishi Eclipse?" Tags="|audio|security|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="949" CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:17:21.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is actually going to your local Mitsubishi dealer, make sure you have your registration/insurance with you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be able to provide it free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:17:21.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-25T13:58:16.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem on an '07 Toyota Tundra, while changing a tire yesterday.  Solution we used was to just beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet, with the wheel in the air after the nuts were removed.  And by &quot;beat the crap out of it&quot;, I mean exactly that - a &quot;gentle tapping&quot; won't do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T13:58:16.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1259" CreationDate="2011-05-26T22:24:33.073" Score="4" ViewCount="5757" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handbrake indicator light on my 2005 Scion tC intermittently turns on while I'm driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about two causes: low brake fluid and (not likely) the handbrake is somehow getting lifted while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason I say the second cause is unlikely is because the handbrake light does not turn on until I lift the handbrake far enough for the first click, and you have to lift it pretty far up for just that first click.  While driving, the handbrake is completely down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as my brake fluid being low, I'm not convinced.  Obviously, I can't check the fluid while I'm driving and pressing the brake pedal, but while the car is stopped, the brake fluid levels are in the normal range.  I replaced my front brake pads two months ago and my rear brake pads just last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be any other reasons for the handbrake indicator light turning on while I'm driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="618" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T13:04:47.737" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T03:41:09.413" Title="2005 Scion tC - Handbrake indicator light intermittently turns on" Tags="|brakes|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="954" CreationDate="2011-05-27T08:58:09.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem a couple of years ago which turned out to be the handbrake cable being loose - at the rest position it was slightly slack which enabled the lever to 'bounce' slightly, which made the warning light come on. It was solved by disconnecting and refitting the cable, then re-tensioning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get at the switch on the lever, try disconnecting it and see if the problem persists. If it goes away, then the handbrake is the problem, and if it does not then it is likely to be the fluid warning sensor (obviously re-connect it once you've done this test!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never come across a situation where brake fluid could be low when driving and normal when stationary, usually if it gets low it stays low! Have you tried getting an assistant to press the brake pedal while you observe the fluid reservoir?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most braking systems I have come across (and I have no reason to believe Toyota's is any different), as you press the pedal the piston closes off the reservoir first, then begins to push the fluid into the system. You'll see this if you ever bleed the brakes as the level in the reservoir will only drop when you release the pedal. Therefore, flid cannot get directly from reservoir to system, or vice-versa, and only one master-cylinder-full can be transferred at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T08:58:09.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-05-27T09:14:03.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should carry on running, albeit somewhat lumpy. I've seen a car (a 6-cylinder BMW) spit out a plug on the motorway, it carried on running quite happily, just got noiser and lost some power (as you would expect!). The owner pulled over at the next exit, found out what had happened and drove to the nearest parts shop to get a new plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T09:14:03.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="998" CreationDate="2011-05-27T12:22:51.927" Score="6" ViewCount="4551" Body="&lt;p&gt;A real-life situation: a car owner leaves his car near a multistoried building in the evening and in the morning he sees the car is standing on bricks and wheels are gone. He addresses the police and the police is ready to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the police finds four wheels at some location with illegal activity but wheels are factory manufactured and indistinguishable from other wheels of the same model. It'd be quite helpful to uniquely mark wheels in advance so that the owner report the marks to the police and once wheels with those marks are found marks serve as a proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess rims are quite easy to engrave but how can one mark tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing with a permanent marker can be removed with solvent. Engraving seems risky since it weakens the tires. What ways to mark tires to help identify them after theft are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="433" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T12:15:22.967" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T08:07:06.533" Title="How to mark tires so they can be identified after theft?" Tags="|tires|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1023" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:20:34.377" Score="4" ViewCount="57983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have 205/55 R16 91V M+S Goodridge tires and an '06 Honda Civic Coupe.  Should I stick with the same type of tires for go for something else? What's the difference between getting R16 or R17? Does it really matter? I realize I don't want anything above R19 on my car because it's going to be too low, but 15,16, or 17? Why would I want any of those sizes? Also, should I change the tires myself or take it somewhere so that they can be aligned etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:38:35.100" Title="Buying new tires R15, R16, R17?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:34:29.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs can fail in a number of ways - most commonly, the electrodes get encrusted with carbon deposits, but the electrodes can be worn away, the ceramic insulator can crack, the threads can fail, or the body can crack apart. Generally the plugs degrade over time, causing weak spark, poor combustion and reduced gas mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, a failure would cause a single cylinder to stop firing, causing strange engine sound and loss of power. An unlikely worst case failure would see part of the spark plug break off and bounce around in the combustion chamber, damaging the cylinder, cylinder head and piston until it was crushed small enough to be spat out the exhaust port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most vehicles spark plug replacement is cheap and easy, and is worthwhile maintenance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've completed a 2 hour endurance race on a vintage motorcycle running on only three of four cylinders due to an ignition fault. While I knew something wasn't right - the inability for my 1000cc four-cylinder to easily pass a 500cc single on straight-line acceleration was a big clue! - the engine ran smoothly enough to continue without danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T15:34:29.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="882" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:04:31.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about a homemade mix (I used to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubbin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dubbin&lt;/a&gt; but that is probably too shiny for you) but I know Black Magic does have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackmagicshine.com/titanium-matte-tire-finish-tires.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;matte black tire spray&lt;/a&gt;. There are some reviews with pictures out there if you google it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="621" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T18:34:35.067" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T18:34:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:09:15.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem may be lack of power for the weight of the vehicle. (I'm unfamiliar with your model, so no idea if this would be normal). Your 215/82 R14 wheels seem tall enough to get over the average curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a solution, you can either attempt it with a bit more momentum - rather than coming to a dead stop, roll up and over it at walking speed - or ease the curb with some boards, as per below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep a 2x4 stored at the location to make a short &quot;ramp&quot; to lessen the severity of the curb. Place the board on the road, parallel to and snugged up to the curb. For more height, an additional 2x6 can go under the 2x4. Store the boards in the van if you need to mount curbs at multiple locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T16:09:15.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:27:16.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Troggy's sequence, make sure that the clamps on the airbox boots, and the intake boot are fully loose with some slack, and using some heat from a hair-dryer or heat gun will make the rubber boots much more supple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T16:27:16.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="809" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:57:39.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses (I believe under seat on that model, possibly under left side body panel). Visually inspect them, and check for for connectivity (low Ohm, or use audible connectivity setting if the meter has one). Some models have an ignition breaker that can be toggled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts diagrams are available from some dealers websites (Ron Ayers, Alphasports, others) and model-specific service manuals can usually be found through searches or motorcycle forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuses aren't the source, trace 12v DC from the battery through the fuse box, ignition switch (red &amp;amp; orange are ignition circuit, brown &amp;amp; grey are running lights), and starter button and relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T16:57:39.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:10:38.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try bending slowly with pliers - I've experience with levers bent in racing tumbles to tell me that cast aluminum doesn't like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has been suggested to me is heat, multiple swift whacks with a heavy mallet, and don't try to get it perfect - get it close to where it was. I've done one or two that way, but not been happy with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I've always used a replacement and kept the bent in the spares bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T17:10:38.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:22:47.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try coming in at an angle.  Come in slowly so that you get one wheel up at a time, or come to a stop and roll slowly and turn the wheel while you're moving.  This should help the tire grip the side and aid in getting the car up, instead of the motor pushing it entirely, if that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're going to be jumping kerbs regularly you should use boards (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rhinoramps.com/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;those ramps they sell&lt;/a&gt; for changing your oil) to avoid tire damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T17:22:47.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2011-05-27T18:32:53.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shop manual (particularly one with colour photos) will offer some spark plug diagrams / photos, to compare against your plugs, but they're not particularly useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, claims are contradictory. The problem is, that a symptom of too lean/too rich is that it doesn't run as well as it should. That's both ways. So a too-lean symptom for one person is the same as a too-rich was for someone else. The best bet is to do one direction or the other and see if it gets better. Sometimes this can be accomplished by tricks (blowing in the vent tube to lower the gas level and lean it out (but just try to do that at full throttle!)) but more often it's going to be trial and error with part changes.  This is why people pay money to dyno operators to tune the bike and do all the jet parts x throttle position x engine speed matrix testing at once. You can take the long approach and tune it yourself with ears, feel, butt-dyno and notes - lots of those! - over some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to tune your carbs you also need a better understanding of how the various circuits affect the mixture at different throttle openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest starting with a read through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mikuni VM Manual&lt;/a&gt;. The VM models are older, direct-action slides rather than the vacuum-operated BS34, but the same principles apply. In particular the last diagram &quot;Functional Range Effectiveness of Tuning Parts in relation to the Throttle Valve Opening (Approximation)&quot; illustrates which parts (mostly) affect which throttle positions. It's good that they put &quot;(approximation)&quot; in the title - because the diagram lies - everything seems to affect everything else, but at least it gives you an understanding to start from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tune your carbs, you need to either go through everything systematically, starting at the main jet and working down, or you can choose to just identify some problematic parts -  particular throttle openings x engine speeds - and address those. Factory Pro has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CV carb tuning procedure for lower rpm engines&lt;/a&gt; that's an appropriate systematic procedure for your XS650.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T18:32:53.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="882" CreationDate="2011-05-27T21:01:03.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to just clean the tires really well.  I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplegreen.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simple Green&lt;/a&gt; (diluted) to clean my wheels and, while I'm down there, I scrub the tires down.  I find that that gives me a sharp looking wheel + tire combination without that greasy shine (aka &quot;wet look&quot;) that you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T21:01:03.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-05-27T21:51:04.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes will loosen the lug nuts slightly then drive in figure 8's a few times.  If that doesn't work I jack it up and beat on the tires with a sledge hammer from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T21:51:04.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="875" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:13:25.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not too bad, around here any auto parts shop can sell you a universal mirror glass and you can glue it on top of the broken glass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T22:13:25.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="863" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:20:55.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Horns can draw a lot of current, they usually have their own relay.  I would definitely not just hook it up to some random 12v wire.  The way it usually works in my experience is there is a relay that is grounded by the switch in the column.  As you found out it's nearly always the part that is bad is what grounds the relay.   You can then add a button somewhere on the dash that grounds the relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T22:20:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="848" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:29:29.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a sweet smell it might be antifreeze, although you'd usually get white smoke as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T22:29:29.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="742" CreationDate="2011-05-28T02:19:46.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem.I finally took it to a mechanic I trust who tested all connections etc and found the cluster to be defective. I'm looking at $800 to replace it. I've contacted Honda to see if they'll help, given my total mileage is only 65,000 km. The problem started at about 50,000 km. It's unlikely that they will take any responsibility. I'd like to know if others are having the same problem, as it is clearly a factory defect issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="626" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T02:19:46.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1004" CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:46:37.350" Score="3" ViewCount="4043" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could someone tell me what the law states with regards to the illumination of number plates in the UK?&#xA;(i.e. number of lights, intensity in mcd (milli-candella)?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have installed a reversing camera on my car in the place of a number plate lamp holder and no longer have enough space to reinstall a bulb so I want to replace both lamp holders with 'LED Bolts' similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kcAT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHROME-WHITE-LED-LIGHT-NUMBER-PLATE-SCREW-BOLTS-1-pair-/180526358897?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&amp;amp;hash=item2a0835a171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all of these products are sold for scooters and motorbikes and I want to make sure my car would still be road worthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="546" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T14:09:21.360" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T14:09:21.360" Title="Requirements for number plate illumination (UK) (Are LED Bolts good enough for cars?)" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="978" CreationDate="2011-05-28T20:59:45.237" Score="13" ViewCount="12233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is on topic, but I'd like to know the answer before it comes a repair question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Y2K Triumph Speed Triple - great bike. First gear comfortably takes to 90km/h. Needless to say, in city riding I have to short-shift out of first but there seems no point in going to second so I go straight to third by double clicking the changer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any mechanical downside to doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T15:29:40.513" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T15:29:40.513" Title="Is it OK to skip gears on a motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|manual-transmission|shifting|gears|triumph|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="980" CreationDate="2011-05-29T02:03:16.763" Score="6" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't remember the last time I went to a gas station and it didn't have a notice that the gas contained some quantity of ethanol. As I understand it, ethanol is harder on my engine than regular gasoline, is a boondoggle in terms of the environmental benefits, and is just a sneaky way for politicians to buy votes from farmers and tree-huggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Politics aside, I'd prefer not to use the stuff because I am doing my best to get my car to 200K miles before I consider a new one. Is it even possible to buy non-ethanol gas anymore, or is there some law now requiring all gas stations to have some blend of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="442" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T22:32:49.023" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T14:25:47.953" Title="Is it even possible to buy gasoline anymore that does not contain ethanol in the US?" Tags="|fuel-system|ethanol|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="977" CreationDate="2011-05-29T03:23:29.767" Score="6" ViewCount="3382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra (base model, FWD, 1.8L 4-cyl engine) and I took some bad advice from the Maps app on my iPhone and I ended up driving on a very, very bad road. At one point, I drove into a puddle that was quite deep where the car got stuck with the front end partially submerged - I imagine the water level was probably more or less at wheel well height towards the front right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to get out by putting the car in reverse, then drive, etc until I was free. During the final reverse attempt I was giving the car a bit of gas and, though the front wheels were mostly slipping, I slowly crawled back up to safety. It was during this final attempt that the engine light came on in the car. The engine itself works though, and I drove about 100 miles or so after this without incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's a new sound in the engine that's faint, but audible, especially at higher RPM. When I opened up my hood I noticed that the entire engine area was dirty, presumably from the mud water that was splashed up during my attempt to escape. I don't have a lot of money, so I guess what I'm wondering is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What may have caused the check engine light to come on? In the 1.5 years I've owned the car it's never come on before.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For each possibility, what is the danger in continuing to drive the vehicle without taking it to be serviced?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to hose down the engine area to get rid of the dirt?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-05-29T12:41:05.227" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:51:11.533" Title="What is the potential damage of a temporarily partially submerged front end?" Tags="|engine|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2011-05-29T09:06:01.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You engine compartment is not closed off from the elements even in normal driving.  Water/mud/dust gets in there and cars still run for years and years.  I'd say you didn't do that much damage if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the engine light still on?  Most of the things which are hooked up to car's computer are various sensors and if one of them gives off wacky reading, the computer throws a code and a light comes on.  Lots of times, the sensor goes back to normal and after few days the light goes off by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a code reader and are curious, you can always hook that up to your car and see which sensor actually gave bad reading.  If you don't have the reader, you can go to any autozone (I think advance auto also does that) and they'll read it for free.  Write down the code and then search online what that code means for your specific car (sometimes generic code meanings don't always match with actual cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the light stays on, most of the time you can still drive the car without any problems but your mileage might drop.  You should still get it fixed, but you don't have to drop everything and do it this instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend hosing down the engine.  If you are concerned about dirt, I'd say just take some paper towels, some brushes and a purple power solution and spend some quality time with your car.  Or just wait for that dirt to fall off as you keep driving if you are not that concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &quot;faint new sound&quot;, could it be that it was always there and probably normal, but you are hearing it now because you are looking for something to be wrong because you are freaking out that you may have damaged the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T09:06:01.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-05-29T09:10:40.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;nope, not at all.  I have a z06 vette and the engine has so much torque that I can easily go from 1st to 5th. Under normal driving I skip gears all the time. Generally transmissions don't really care about which gear you want to use next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T09:10:40.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="905" CreationDate="2011-05-29T09:30:12.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say 20k difference for tires is a lot. Generally the recommendation is to keep the tires paired (2 fronts and 2 rears) at even wear level.  For your car it'll most effect handling because left/right will have different grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the diff, you won't do any damage at all.  You have open diff, which means there's no clutch plates, or gears that would be constantly ground because of slightly different tire diameter.  If you had limited slip diff, you'd have to be more concerned as different tires not only put constant load on the diff itself, but also on the drive axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T09:30:12.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2011-05-29T12:56:42.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not a federal law that forces the use of ethanol blends but some states have laws that try to encourage its use and there might be a state that requires it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching online, I see very different opinions about the potential negative effects on your engine from the use of E10.  (Mostly on older vehicles as newer vehicles are agreed to handle it correctly).   Regardless, I would contact the maker of your vehicle and see if they have a recommendation for your specific make/model/year.   If they say it works fine in your car, then you don't have to worry.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T12:56:42.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="996" CreationDate="2011-05-29T17:00:10.720" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there is AllDataDIY, but are there any free websites? With diagrams of where things are, or diagnosing and repair guides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T01:12:51.443" Title="Free online databases?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26328" CreationDate="2011-05-30T02:11:51.420" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I change the oil on my motorcycle? I can see where to check the level, but how do I drain it? It's a Honda CB400 2011 model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T07:25:34.880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T07:25:34.880" Title="Changing motorcycle oil" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:31:48.970" Score="11" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Avenger 180cc bike, I want to maintain the bike without much help from the service&#xA;center, external help etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best practice methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="535" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:04:02.263" Title="What is the best practice to maintain a bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="987" CreationDate="2011-05-30T16:11:57.573" Score="3" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bough an old (1980s) Nissan Pathfinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the engine I have managed to identify the engine-oil hole, the radiator-water hole and the windshield-washer hole (you can tell I'm a car expert!) which are generally all I need to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a metal tank at the top of the engine about the size of a coke can with an oil type filler cap. In it is a pinkish liquid that looks a lot like hydraulic fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this for?, what do I put in it?, and how bad is it if I don't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="633" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T13:27:51.447" Title="What is this tank for ?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="988" CreationDate="2011-05-30T17:25:58.887" Score="2" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jimny model year 2009. When I get up to 80 km/h, the steering wheel shakes slightly; it does the same when braking from any speed above 80 km/h down to the 80 mark, but much more violently. I've done alignment and balancing, but didn't work. Garage says it may be deformed braking discs...thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T15:52:22.770" Title="Suzuki Jimny 2009 shaking?" Tags="|jeep|suzuki|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2011-05-30T22:21:34.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing what you're referring to, I'd have to guess that it's the power steering reservoir, although it's possible that it could also be the brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power steering cap should have a dipstick type wand to check the level.  Before putting anything in it, check the owners manual to determine what type of fluid it needs - some systems use power steering fluid, while others use something like ATF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's brake fluid, it would probably be a bad thing if it was pinkish - that might indicate that someone had added improper fluids to the brake reservoir.  The cap to the brake reservoir will not usually have a dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T22:21:34.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="986" CreationDate="2011-05-30T23:19:55.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the shake becomes worse when you apply the brake, then I'd agree with the garage.  The rotors are wearable items and as they get older, they often develop a warp (or to be more precise according to some schools of thoughts, uneven build up of brake pad material).  How many miles are on those rotors?  Also depends on your driving patterns, my rotors regularly go bad in less than 2 years because the car ends up sitting unused for days and they end up rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is bent rim.  If rims are bad, generally no amount of balancing will stop the car from shaking.  Run over any potholes/curbs lately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T23:19:55.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2011-05-30T23:37:35.773" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice depends on what you are trying to achieve with new tires and what's important to you.  handling? ride comfort? looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the reasons people buy higher size rims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you want wheel diameter to stay the same, higher rim size, means tire side wall is thinner.  This improves cornering as there's less flex in the tire.  At the same time, ride becomes a little stiffer with thinner side wall.  Not good for certain places like Detroit (at least last time I was there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger rim allows you to use larger brakes.  Important for racing as larger rotor will be better at dealing with heat generated by braking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks.  Some think larger rims look better and to a degree that's true.  However, this can be taken to an extreme and becomes tacky and stupid looking.  Also, personally, I think large rims with dinky little stock brakes (i.e. large empty space inside the rim) don't look any good either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do realize that if you go to larger diameter, you'll need new rims as well.  So staying at the same diameter could save you few hundred bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specific advice for your make/model, check out honda online forums and see what people are using in their cars. Just stay away from clowns who wouldn't recognize decent taste if it hit them in the face.  17&quot; will probably be good on your car.  I wouldn't go higher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy higher-size tires, you'll need new rims.  If you buy tires/rims in one place like tirerack.com or discounttiredirect.com, they will mount the tires for free and ship you wheels which are ready to go onto your car.  If you buy tires separately, you will need to have a professional shop mount them on your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T23:37:35.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:41:52.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, and foremost break it in properly. There is a reason they recommended, and it might make life easier later on. Follow you service manual, and make a habit of keeping tires at proper pressure. If you ride harder than the norm, then you want to adjust the service to a more frequent mode. Remember, the harder you ride the dirtier all your fluids will likely get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:41:52.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:44:22.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely a power steering reservoir, and it should be labeled as such. You do not put anything in it, unless it is low. If it is low, and you are hearing whine, check for a leak. Some power steering systems use transmission fluid as their fluid, but it is a completely separate system from the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:44:22.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="976" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:51:11.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Louisiana, where it rains a lot and giant puddles are known to exist. I noticed when cars came in after being sub-marined, depending on the severity, the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged Mass Airflow Sensor (Check engine light comes on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged Air speed sensor (If equipped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flooded air box (Throws off mixture, and soaks filter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged engine rods (Very severe, since water is almost incompressible. If you engine was damaged, and you have a bent rod, it might be vibrating extra.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure before you drive again, check your oil for water contamination, dry your air filter, clean your airflow sensor, and ensure there is no water in you air box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:51:11.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:54:06.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a driving expert, but I think it has to do with RPM. If you want to skip gears, make sure the RPM are at the right level or you damage your gears. Again, I am no expert, but I think it is related to RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:54:06.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:59:24.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot find it anywhere, look at the bottom of the engine. Remember, drain plug is usually at the lowest point of the pan. Look for a hexagonal bolt, and it should be it. Ensure to not confuse it with you transmission though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T03:16:35.760" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:16:35.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1000" CreationDate="2011-05-31T04:16:30.100" Score="3" ViewCount="8307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check other questions, and did not see an answer.&#xA;Backstory: Driving around, discovered pin hole in radiator. Chose to drive home, since I was at my exit, and I lived right there. Blew head gasket. &#xA;Fixes: Replaced radiator(Due to hole), Replaced water pump(found goo), and replaced head/gasket(It was cheaper).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am doing a compression check, since coolant consumption problem seems to remain. Will I see any change in the results if my deck is warped? Or is the flat edge the only way to check a warped deck. Thanks for future answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note to anyone else reading that might be wondering this: Engine has a block and a head, for the most part. The head seats on the head gasket, and the head gasket seats on the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T17:19:17.060" Title="Does a warped engine block affect compression test?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|compression|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="981" CreationDate="2011-05-31T07:57:49.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is going to be &quot;enthusiast&quot; groups for your specific car type.  These individual sites can often offer repair and diagnostics information, to varying levels of completeness, but I have never run across a make/model agnostic site that provides similar information.  Maybe this site in a few years?  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T07:57:49.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:20:26.780" Score="-3" ViewCount="2179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what engine would last longer and with less problems?&#xA;A 3 or a 4 cylinder engine?&#xA;Thanks.&#xA; Alik.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T22:03:12.417" Title="What engine is more durable? 3 or 4 cylinder ?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-09-18T18:23:04.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="957" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:23:03.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think engraving or stamping would be fine, particularly as many manufactured wheels come with engraving or stamping on them.  I mean, they engrave safety glass, talk about things that are delicate to damage.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generation-maxima-2009/629925-wheels-rim-vin-etching.html&quot;&gt;Here's a thread about a police precinct offering it.&lt;/a&gt;  Though all the other references I see to the etching are for glass only, and apparently this is because many other parts tend to already have the VIN or partial VIN on them (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VIN_etching&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;).  Here's a page about &lt;a href=&quot;http://phoenix.gov/safebiz/vin_etching.html&quot;&gt;Phoenix police offering it for glass&lt;/a&gt;, so it may be that the author of the first post above got their wheels stolen, then saw something about etching and assumed it was for wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some metal work and I wouldn't expect that stamping the VIN on the rims would significantly compromise it's integrity, especially if you have your choice on where to do it.  However, it may be worth asking a metals expert about it.  For example, one of the guys who runs a local machine shop has built parts that are on spacecraft, and can tell you at a molecular level what different marking and machining techniques will do, so you may want to check around machine shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T08:23:03.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:51:35.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of cylinders is completely irrelevant when determining the durability of an engine. Workload, used materials, building process, maintainance, etc. are far more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T08:51:35.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:56:23.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a warped lower end can affect the compression test. A seriously warped head of block can lead to compression leakage through the small space between the head gasket and the head or block. But I don't think you have a bend block, I suspect you used your old head with a new head gasket? You need to have a specialized company 'flatten' the head. I don't know the correct English term but it's basically making the bottom of the head completely smooth and level again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T08:56:23.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2011-05-31T09:54:29.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;ELM327 is not supported by iPhone as Apples Bluetooth Stack does not support the Bluetooth Serial protocol, the ELM327 is in it's simplest form a ODB to Serial Adapter with the serial data fed to a Bluetooth modem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="636" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T09:54:29.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="984" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:27:51.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a manual transmission? It could be the hydraulic fluid for clutch, assuming it's a hydraulic clutch and not cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T13:27:51.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="973" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:53:25.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules you are after are the road vehicle lighting regulations 1989 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/15/made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunatly, as usual, they are pretty vague:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Such that the lamp or lamps are capable of adequately illuminating the rear registration plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An approval mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any minimum rating there - I don't think any are specified in candela, it's usually a wattage IIRC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T13:53:25.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5704" CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:17:43.407" Score="12" ViewCount="42974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 chevy impala.  When I hit the gas (whether it be a light tap or hit it pretty hard), my car kind of waits a second, jerks and then takes off (revs go kinda high when it's waiting).  To me it kind of feels like the first  gear is waiting to catch and then it catches and it jerks.  This only happens when going from being stopped (ie at a stop light).  Does anyone have any idea what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been doing this for a long while now.  Been meaning to have it looked at, just haven't had time or money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:21:19.047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T23:21:19.047" Title="2003 Chevrolet Impala - Jerks after Stopping" Tags="|transmission|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:36:23.843" Score="7" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am driving a 1995 Bonneville and, lately, whenever I am idle, at a stoplight for example, my oil pressure drops and my check engine light comes on.  Any ideas on why this could be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="639" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T09:23:45.197" Title="Oil pressure question" Tags="|oil|pontiac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1006" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:04:37.360" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your oil pressure is dropping at low RPM, which could be one of the following: low oil level, a bad oil pump, low viscosity oil, or worn bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step after checking the oil level is to check the oil pressure with a manual gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:04:37.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1006" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:27:04.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;May even be a failing oil pressure switch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:27:04.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="340" CreationDate="2011-06-01T00:15:22.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a chance your 300E has a Bosh Jetronic fuel injection system. These need their own servicing techniques. Key points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new injectors would usually be a good idea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the air path from the filter to the manifold needs checking for leaks as the Jetronic system doesn't like vacuum leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how old is the catalytic converter? If it's original, perhaps a new one would be a good investment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T00:15:22.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1325" CreationDate="2011-06-01T00:46:39.523" Score="2" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;What steps do I take to replace the cabin air filter on my 2008 Toyota Tacoma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="640" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:00:56.710" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:25:07.303" Title="2008 Toyota Tacoma cabin air filter replacment" Tags="|toyota|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:52:39.780" Score="11" ViewCount="104132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford F150 4x4.  The front 2 tires treads measure 12/32, one rear is 6/32 and the other is 10/32.  The dealership told me I should replace the rear 2 tires because the big difference in tread depth will cause the tires to spin differently and could damage my 4 wheel drive system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really a concern or are they just trying to sell me new tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="641" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T06:57:41.703" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T02:01:51.283" Title="Will different tread depths hurt my 4 wheel drive?" Tags="|tires|4wd|awd|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-01T04:34:11.793" Score="2" ViewCount="4806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '99 Jetta TDI (diesel) with a cracked oil pan.  I'm looking for the sequence of tightening the bolts and the torque needed for each bolt.  I've been doing to google-fu but can't seem to find it. Does anyone specifically know these details, or where I can maybe find this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Can someone with priv please put 'oil-pan' and 'bolt-sequence' as tags :)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T08:15:09.280" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:45:26.973" Title="What is the torque and sequence for a '99 Jetta Oil Pan?" Tags="|torque|tdi|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1020" CreationDate="2011-06-01T05:05:24.237" Score="4" ViewCount="31261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my car into the shop because I was leaking coolant. (I thought it was tranny fluid. See my other question from a while ago to see how bad I suck at fixing cars :) I ended up putting some Stop-Leak in my coolant and haven't had a problem since- this is good because it was about 1200 to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What they said needed to be fixed was a replaced water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer (less than 12 months ago, so still under warranty) I got my water pump fixed. My receipt says &quot;Diagnose and replace water outlet&quot; with &quot;4792630AA Housing-Water Outlet&quot; as the part. What is the difference between this piece and the water pump? Should it have still been under warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="527" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T11:15:55.207" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T01:18:07.443" Title="Difference between water pump and water outlet housing" Tags="|coolant|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2011-06-01T06:57:22.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something I've commonly heard said, usually by tire salesmen, but I do not buy.  The difference in speed of the rotating tires between 6/32&quot; is very small and likely less than many other factors such as alignment and tire inflation differences.  The differentials are meant to handle small differences between the different tires rotation speeds and should be able to cope with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All this assumes that you are using the same size tires.  Never mix tire sizes on a 4WD vehicle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd recommend that you call Ford if they provide some sort of &quot;answers line&quot; and verify with them that there isn't anything unique in the design of the system that couldn't cope with this difference in tread depth on otherwise identical tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside: We were once traveling through Montana and had a tire die.  We limped into town and found a place that could replace the tire, but they were pushing for us to get all 4 matched tires, because we were driving an AWD car (Audi Quattro full-time AWD).  I'm kind of particular about my tires and they didn't have what I would have wanted on it, so I just had them replace the one, so we could get home and deal with getting the right tire ordered in then.  I was able to get them to replace just the one tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I later called the Audi Customer Service Hotline and asked about this.  The person I spoke to said that as long as they were the same size tire, it was absolutely not a problem.  She re-iterated that the tires must be the same size, but differences in the wear are fine.  She obviously did not look this up or have to ask anyone, so it seems like a question they get a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T06:57:22.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="888" CreationDate="2011-06-01T07:32:40.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that there may have been other specifics in this case that made it a special case.  Maybe the battery had just been replaced or discharged and had to be jump started, and so they were trying to build up a charge?  Maybe that particular bus was having mechanical issues that caused it to sometimes be particularly hard to start?  Maybe they needed to warm the engine up for a oil change or emissions test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T07:32:40.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2011-06-01T08:33:02.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a workshop manual for the car? The torque figures should be listed in there. In the UK Haynes manuals they are at the beginning of the relevant chapter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a specific order for oil sump bolts, but if there is one it should be listed in the approprate section of said manual. Normally it is only head bolts that need to be tightened in a certain sequence, but I don't know about modern VW engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T08:33:02.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-01T09:16:01.280" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a programmer, if I had a non-programmer friend who was looking for a programmer, I could think of a few tips to help him sort out the sheep from the goats and avoid some common traps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any equivalent tips when it comes to finding someone to take care of my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T18:16:26.593" Title="Tips for finding a good mechanic" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-01T15:21:06.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:33:05.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yelp.com/&quot;&gt;Yelp&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.angieslist.com/auto-repair/&quot;&gt;Angie’s List&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/&quot;&gt;Car Talk Mechanics Files&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider the following to be good signs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shop's lot holds several cars of the same make/model/age as your own. Some shops advertise their expertise pretty generically (e.g., &quot;Joe's foreign car service.&quot;), so seeing that other people with similar cars go there suggests that they know your make/model well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cleanliness. It isn't always easy to see into the garage bays from the outside or from the reception area, and asking for a tour might be met with a funny look. However, a clean and well lit shop is a better sign than tools scattered about, unaddressed oil spills on the floor, et cetera.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:33:05.623" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-01T15:21:21.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1014" CreationDate="2011-06-01T16:34:46.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water pump is a mechanical pump that is one of the belt driven devices in your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pump is what circulates the coolant (when the parts are referred to for water, they mean coolant. Water hoses, water outlet, water inlet, water pump, etc are all carrying coolant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water outlet is simply a pipe, on one end of it is the engine block, on the other end is a hose that is connected to the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is both a water inlet and a water outlet, these are the two points in which the coolant flows in and out of your engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since yours was a water outlet &quot;housing&quot; it may be the location of your thermostat. On my engine, the thermostat housing is connected to the water inlet, not outlet.  I'm sure manufacturers use different locations and naming theories all the time though.  The housing contains the thermostat which is a temperature sensitive device that determines whether your coolant cycles through the radiator or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've first turned on your vehicle, you want it to get up to operating temperature, so you don't yet want to be cooling the coolant through the radiator, so the thermostat keeps it blocked off until reaching a certain temperature.  Once it reaches that temperature it opens up allowing the coolant to flow through the radiator to get cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water outlet could leak due to corrosion, some failure point in the metal or to a faulty gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your vehicle and the shop you took it to (I'm guessing dealership), $1200 doesn't surprise me to replace it.  The water pump is typically done at the same time as the timing belt because you have to take off almost all of the same parts to get in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be changing my water pump on my car this weekend just because I'm already going to have my radiator out and hoses off.  The water pump if I had purchased OEM would have been $100 instead of the $30 I'm paying for an aftermarket one so there is some difference there but most of that $1200 is probably labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T16:51:51.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T16:51:51.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2011-06-01T16:44:23.117" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the manual is saying small amounts of DOT3 can be used, what they are most likely saying is if you find yourself with low brake fluid and only DOT3 is available, it is better to use that than to not have brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get back home though you need to get the recommended DOT4 back in the system by bleeding the system and filling with DOT4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already stated, DOT4 handles higher heat.  If your car is calling for DOT4, that means that the manufacturer does not feel comfortable that the braking system will not raise the brake fluid above a temperature that DOT3 can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to make here is there are two boiling temperatures for brake fluid, Dry and Wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've just replaced your brake fluid and the system has been properly bled, you are working at the Dry boiling temperature.  Over time, water works its way into the system through age, heat cycling, through the hoses, etc.  You are then working at your Wet boiling point for the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So again, if you get stuck in a spot where you need to put some new brake fluid into the system and all you have available is DOT3, most likely at that point your DOT4 has degraded some and the fresh DOT3 will be close to where the DOT4 is at, but this won't stay true, the DOT3 will degrade once in the lines so the above statement of replace it as soon as possible holds true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T16:44:23.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2011-06-01T17:24:28.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil pans don't have a specific bolt sequence like a cylinder head or crankshaft bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link should be helpful: &lt;a href=&quot;http://65.110.12.166/showpost.php?s=c011f9b152f23c487d74809065f29ae5&amp;amp;p=2785519&amp;amp;postcount=59&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TDIClub Forums - View Single Post -  frequently asked torque specs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use Silicone sealant D 176 404 A2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Remove center, left and right sound insulation trays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drain engine oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove securing bolts for oil pan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Loosen oil pan with light blows of a rubber-headed hammer, if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove oil pan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove sealant residue on cylinder block with a flat scraper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove sealant residue on oil pan with a rotating brush, e.g. a drill motor with a plastic brush (wear eye protection). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clean sealing surfaces. Surfaces must be free of oil and grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Note: Observe the use-by date of the sealing compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The oil pan must be installed within 5 minutes of applying the silicone sealing compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cut off tube nozzle at forward marking (approx. nozzle diameter: 3 mm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply silicone sealing compound, as shown, to clean oil pan sealing surface. Sealant bead must be 2 to 3 mm thick &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Run along inner side of bolt holes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sealing compound bead must not be thicker, otherwise excess sealing compound will enter the oil pan and may block the oil suction pipe strainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply silicone sealant bead carefully as shown to areas marked by arrows. (Illustration shows position of sealant bead on cylinder block). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Install oil pan immediately and tighten all oil pan bolts lightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The oil pan must be flush with the cylinder block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tighten oil pan bolts to 15 Nm.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tighten oil pan/transmission bolts to 45 Nm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Let the sealing compound dry for approx. 30 minutes after installing the oil pan. Only then fill the engine with oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Further assembly is basically the reverse of the disassembly procedure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T13:45:26.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:45:26.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2011-06-02T00:43:03.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by DXM, the 15,16,17 isn't an interchangeable number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the first 3 numbers can just be changed individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your 205/55R16 example:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;205 is the width of the tire in millimeters&#xA;55 is the percentage of the width that equals the height of the sidewall (so 205 x .55 = 112.75mm)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;16 is the wheel diameter in inches the tire fits on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One wheel can hold a range of widths, so you might be able to go from 205 to 225 to run a wider tire (more rubber on the road, creates a larger contact patch and so theoretically more traction) but you would need to reduce the sidewall percentage to 50 to keep the height of the sidewall close to the same (112.75mm vs 112.5mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not keep the overall diameter of your tire the same (wheel diameter + sidewall height) you will be altering your final gear ratio which will make your speedometer incorrect, alter your fuel mileage (better or worse depends on driving behavior and altered size), impacts your acceleration, what speed you can reach in which gears, your effective power band, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again using the 205/55R16 your current overall diameter is 519.15mm (wheel size * 25.4 + tire width * sidewall percentage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move to a 17&quot; wheel assuming the same wheel and tire width, you'd need to use a 205/45R17 to get close but you'd actually be 4.9mm taller (off by about 1%).  Fitting a 215/40R17 would get you 1.35mm shorter (off by about .25%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going with a wider tire and especially a wider wheel you have to take more into account as you may have clearance issues and either need wheels with a different offset or make use of wheel spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is rarely a perfect match when changing the wheel size but the more you can reduce the variance, the less you will impact items on the car that you shouldn't be changing unless you understand why you are changing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T00:43:03.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="958" CreationDate="2011-06-02T08:10:25.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also have a look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/846/37&quot;&gt;Benefits of low profile tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a performance / comfort tradeoff which can be decided depending on the usage. On a track lower profile is often better, but on the road not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T08:10:25.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1061" CreationDate="2011-06-02T12:42:59.713" Score="9" ViewCount="55113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several really small nicks and major scuffs on my car; the nicks from driving on the highway (flying debris hitting chassis) and the scuffs from two fender benders. The nicks have started to rust and the scuffs are just annoying, so I'd like to get rid of them. A body repair shop charges me for each body piece, so that doesn't make for a good deal. I was wondering if I can resolve it with something like DAP Touch'n'Tone multipurpose spray paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="623" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T14:36:35.013" Title="Can I use spray paint to touch up my car?" Tags="|paint-scratches|body-work|chassis|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1027" CreationDate="2011-06-02T13:26:46.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy touch up paint that matches the paint color of your car. This can be used to fill in the nicks in the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this would help with the scuffs, depends on how large and deep they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T13:26:46.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1027" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:21:42.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal spray paint may likely chip off in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instructable about painting your car with Rustoleum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T16:21:42.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2011-06-02T17:29:41.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Happens on a fairly regular basis to vehicles here in the rust belt.  When the &quot;loosen lugnuts and drive&quot; and &quot;sledgehammer&quot; methods fail I've had to resort to securing the vehicle on jackstands (with tires also under the sill in case it comes off the stands), climbing under it and kicking like a fiend until the tire comes off.  That hasn't failed me yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try putting antiseize on the surfaces that are getting stuck, but I've found that to not help much on my cars.  Even changing tires just a month later, the anti-seize has gotten washed out.  Appears that the mating surfaces have enough gap to let water in, which is probably why they seize all the time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T14:09:03.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T14:09:03.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-06-02T17:35:55.797" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you keep driving it that way for very long, the fuel that's pumping through the non-firing cylinder will contaminate the catalytic converter.  That can result in the catalyst overheating and melting, possibly blocking the exhaust in the process (BTDT and cats are not cheap...).  If you're really having a bad day, the cat could theoretically catch on fire and possibly result in a full-blown vehicle fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T17:35:55.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="920" CreationDate="2011-06-02T17:49:19.397" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not recommended to just replace one, but unless you're pushing 9/10s of the capability of your car, you'd probably never notice the difference.  When I was working construction, &lt;em&gt;nobody&lt;/em&gt; would do full set or even axle set replacements.  When you're having tires destroyed as fast as happens from all the loose nails lost at construction sites, it's foolish to replace all of them each time.  At a minimum you end up with mismatched tread wear, and more typically you end up with a different brand as the make/model/size that one buys never seems to be available even just a couple months later.  Sigh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T17:49:19.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:06:13.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purely based on the description of the sound (and ignoring the tech's comments), it sounds like a bad gasket.  Mostly likely exhaust manifold, but possibly intake manifold gasket (especially if it's the 1.8L model, which is prone to failures there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:06:13.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="767" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:10:21.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a couple.  I've got an old Actron that works just fine (ISO only though in whatever model it is).  I've also got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-2.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alex Peper's&lt;/a&gt;  PC based software (w/tri-mode cable) and that works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T18:44:56.440" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:44:56.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:17:42.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One car of mine has red, the other is yellowy-clear.  More important than the color is the smell.  If it smells burnt, that could be an indication of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:17:42.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:33:00.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just look at the mileage on the car.  If the mileage divided by 1000 is evenly divisible by 3, it's time for an oil change (quick math trick to make it easier, add up the digits representing thousands, ten thousands, and hundred thousands place, divide that by 3)...  For example, my one car has 115,000 miles (7 divided by 3 = no oil change yet).  The other has 249,500 (15/3 divides nice and evenly, and guess what, I just did the oil change 500 miles ago).  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my cars has clear looking oil for the first 1500 miles or so before it starts to turn dark.  The other one starts turning dark within the first 100 miles.  Oddly, the one that turns dark the fastest is the newer, lower mileage car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:33:00.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1055" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:38:40.367" Score="7" ViewCount="9425" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2003 Saab 9-5 Aero, only the left rear fog light lights up.  The right side has a bulb but when I switch the bulbs, the left still is the only side that lights up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be a wiring issue, however a friend mentioned that his Porsche only has wiring and bulbs on the left side for the reverse fog light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the left side really the only side that should light up for a pair of rear fog lights?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The fact that the right side has a bulb in the Saab seems strange to me, but maybe it was easier to make them symmetric during manufacturing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T12:14:13.643" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:18:06.550" Title="Should only the left &quot;Rear Fog Light&quot; actually light up in a pair?" Tags="|electrical|tail-lights|saab|9-5|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:49:41.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe in turning rotors anymore.  If they're too thin, replace.  Warped, replace (probably warped from heat, and if you warped them before, they're going to warp even faster as they get thinner).  Grooves, as long as they're not deep, the pads and rotor will come to agree with each other pretty quick.  Deep grooves, replace the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:49:41.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:55:14.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use FogCity stick on &quot;inserts&quot; in my racing helmets.  Makes a world of difference.  Got a helmet that has now reached retirement age and the insert is still working like new!  Much better than a wax/liquid that needs to be reapplied occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:55:14.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1041" CreationDate="2011-06-02T19:55:07.220" Score="8" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was recently repaired (turbo air intake motor, motor mounts, brakes) at which time I also asked them to do the annual NC safety inspection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I picked up the car and asked about the inspection, the shop rep said he couldn't do it because the car had just been repaired and needed to &quot;run in&quot; for a week or so before he could hook it up to the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of this &quot;run-in&quot; period before. Is this true? Has anyone else experienced this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="645" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:15:56.797" Title="Safety Inspection after repair" Tags="|inspection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1040" CreationDate="2011-06-02T20:15:56.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the codes have been cleared, and likely were after the repairs, the car has to pass a couple of emission inspection test that the ECM (the cars computer) runs once certain conditions are met. This usually takes a few drive cycles to get all the tests to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will not pass the inspection until these tests have run. This keeps someone for clearing the codes just before putting in on the inspection machine to make the car pass inspection even when there are problems with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:15:56.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2011-06-02T23:32:43.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The legal requirement (in the UK) is for there to be at least one, however where your car is fitted with two rear fog lights they should both light up, otherwise you could fail an inspection if the police decided to stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the cars I have ever owned have had 2 rear fog lights, but you do see a lot which have one side fitted with a red fog light and the other with a white reversing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise checking the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T23:32:43.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-06-02T23:36:58.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to drive my Subarus pretty hard, both on and off track, and I go through brake pads at around 15-20 thousand miles. My old Impreza is at 130,000 miles now and the rotors are absolutely fine - looking at the wear I'll get to 200,000 before they need a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are damaged/scuffed or have worn right down, obviously change them. Other than that, leave them be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T11:34:12.220" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T11:34:12.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1099" CreationDate="2011-06-03T01:04:39.790" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned previously, I have a 2004 WRX wagon with a stainless Prodrive circular-tip axle-back installed around 2006.  Lately, the weather has been nice enough to drive with the windows open and I've noticed a change in the exhaust note.  There's a tight rev band where I notice a howl, especially when descending through 3200 rpms on a dropped throttle.  This could be a resonance of some sort, since it is also noticeable (thought not as annoying) when maintaining steady revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fundamental question is, however, what changed?  I've had years with this exhaust (both axle-back and OEM).  Am I hearing a change internal to the muffler?  Or is it more likely that one of the other pieces is starting to fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:37:03.397" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T22:37:03.397" Title="How should I diagnose an exhaust &quot;howl&quot; when descending through 3200 rpms?" Tags="|subaru|exhaust|wrx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1051" CreationDate="2011-06-03T02:25:08.543" Score="6" ViewCount="2488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a non-standard set of rims and I'd like to know what Offset they are as I believe they are incorrect for the car they are on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a rough idea what Offset means but how do I easily and accurately measure the Rim Offset?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can it be done while the wheels are on the car or do I have to remove one?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can it be done without removing the tyre from the rim?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it likely that the offset is stamped somewhere on the rim (I can't see it, but maybe I should look harder)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T09:20:13.750" Title="How can I measure Rim Offset?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="834" CreationDate="2011-06-03T02:34:46.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by jzd in a comment, try removing the key when in Neutral rather than Park.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If trying while in Park, try to ensure you are in Park and the car knows that it's in Park. Does anything else usually happen when Park is engaged? A dashlight or something else to indicate that the car knows it is in Park.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another thing to try is giving the steering wheel a bit of jiggle, sometimes the steering lock can 'jam' keys, although usually this is more of a problem when inserting keys and starting rather then removing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T02:34:46.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="837" CreationDate="2011-06-03T03:52:45.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is almost certainly a genuine OE option available that you could purchase from a dealer and probably get them to fit as well. This would be worth looking into just so you know how much it would cost, it may not be super expensive, but my gut feel says it will be reasonably costly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or there are aftermarket options available. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.crutchfield.com&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty good web site where you can select the exact model car you are enquiring about and it will list compatible components for you. I entered the info you provided and it came up with an option for a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_469HON3AUX/P-I-E-Honda-Auxiliary-Input-Adapter.html?tp=422&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HON03-AUX&lt;/a&gt;&quot; for $89USD which plugs in behind your stereo somewhere. Be aware that it does list quite a few caveats about its compatibility (such as &quot;Factory radio must have CD changer controls&quot;), so read carefully before ordering.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apparently the product comes with an installation guide and apparently Crutchfield offers lifetime tech support so it seems like it should be easily fitted by someone with not too many electronic or automotive skills.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've never installed one of these, and I have never had anything to do with Crutchfield (I just found the website today) so I'm far from an expert here. But given that the component must be plugged into the back of the radio the skill set required will be more to do with accessing the back of the radio than electronics. You may have to remove part of the dash in order to gain access to the rear of the radio - so be aware of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T03:52:45.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2011-06-03T04:13:24.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most pros will tell you not to bother trying to patch a condenser leak, just replace it. While that's not always an option, it's definitely an option you should consider first.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can you source cheap second-hand unit for your car? Unfortunately condensers and radiators are often damaged in car accidents so second-hand units can be a bit dicey, so make sure you check it thoroughly and try to get a warranty with it. Obviously you could also try sourcing a new OE or aftermarket unit as well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your next best bet would be to remove the condenser yourself and take it to a radiator repair place and see if they're repair it for you. Removing it (and then fitting it again) yourself will save paying someone for the trouble. A radiator place probably won't charge much for a repair, assuming they think a repair is possible, as it shouldn't really take them very long. It usually takes a lot longer to get the unit out of and into the car than it does to do the actual repair.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Failing all that, you could try to do the repair yourself (which was your actual question I know). I'm afraid I know very little about this sort of welding so I'm not qualified to answer, but if you search for radiator repair/welding you should find plenty of info and radiator repair is pretty much the same as condenser repair. And hopefully someone with welding skills will chime in here with some more info for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T04:13:24.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="650" CreationDate="2011-06-03T05:06:47.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing about airbags is that they make cars safer for the occupants (mostly), this is generally a good thing and a net positive. The trouble is that it then allows car manufacturers to build slightly less safe cars that and still pass crash tests, design regulations and other safety regulations. So the reason that some cars don't have an airbag disabling key in the glove box or elsewhere could be because disabling the airbag would put the car in a state where it would not pass safety regulations so the manufacturer (or relevant government body) decided it would never be a valid option. Of course, another reason is to not fit a disabling key is that its cheaper not to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is just a general statement about airbags and the way cars are designed, manufactured and tested these days, it's not specific to the Vauxhall (Opel) Zafira MkII.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are aware of all the pros and cons of disabling the airbag (I've only broadly outlined a basic safety issue, there is more than that to consider) your options are very limited because unfortunately you've discarded pretty much everything that is likely to be effective. But I do agree with most of your reasons for discarding them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your best bet is to find &lt;strong&gt;another&lt;/strong&gt; dealer that &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; disable it for you.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or try to find someone who isn't a dealer but has the equipment to do it for you. Aftermarket shops are often familiar with the concept because they replace airbag steeringwheels with 'race' ones.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As William Cline has suggested in a comment, you could try to source an appropriate aftermarket OBD system that will allow you to turn the airbag off yourself electronically.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disconnecting the airbag is still an option, it should be a relatively simple task especially if you can get hold of a decent mechanics manual for the car. There are at least 2 Cons to doing this though: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnecting will definitely cause&#xA;a 'fault' to be registered somewhere&#xA;in the cars electronics and it will&#xA;almost certainly cause a warning&#xA;light on the dash to be illuminated.&#xA;In more modern cars, often once an&#xA;Airbag fault is recorded the warning&#xA;won't be turned off until a dealer&#xA;resets the 'computer' so even if you&#xA;plug the airbag back in again, the&#xA;warning light will likely remain on.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably won't know 100% for&#xA;certain that you have correctly&#xA;disconnected the airbag and it's not&#xA;something easily tested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T05:06:47.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-03T07:23:19.097" Score="5" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never had any trouble finding wiper blade refills for my 1998 Honda Accord or 2000 Toyota Echo.  They were inexpensive because all you bought was the rubber part of the blade.  The steel strips to reinforce them were retained from the original wipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my 2008 Nissan Frontier passenger wiper blade edge separated from the rest of the wiper I started looking for a replacement.  Refills I found claiming to be for my Frontier were usually refills for an after-market replacement arm assembly and did not fit my stock wipers.  I did finally find a Trico refill for my passenger side (18-240, narrow profile) but their recommended driver's side refill (24-240) is the same profile but needs to be wider (9mm vs 7mm??)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local auto parts stores all say they stopped carrying OEM refills.  I could get a new wiper arm but years ago when I did that I regretted the poor quality of the replacement and the way it never quite fit the window as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="650" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T14:01:49.507" Title="How do I find wiper refills for my 2008 Nissan Frontier?" Tags="|nissan|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1045" CreationDate="2011-06-03T08:53:38.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To measure offset, you really need to know two numbers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;illustrated here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inner to outer edge distance: this is effectively the track width of the wheel if you were to drive around without a tire mounted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inner edge to the hub or outer edge to the hub: either will give you the basic number, though you'll need to apply the appropriate minus sign to in the equation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The offset is then the difference between the half the number you found in step one and the number that you found in step 2.  I.e., the distance of the hub from the true middle of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to measure the offset either with or without the tire mounted, though measuring unmounted is far more convenient.  I would recommend that you contact the vendor and see if they'll just provide you with the offset, though.  That isn't trade secret information and Tire Rack, for instance, has specific guidance on which offset is appropriate to which vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T21:29:23.907" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T21:29:23.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2011-06-03T11:34:43.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aftermarket industry is moving away from refills so it is only going to get harder to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using beam blades instead.  In my experience they preform better and look nicer since they take up less space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image showing a Neo Form blade next to a traditional blade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7Klu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Neo Form vs Exact Fit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T11:34:43.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:01:42.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into the same problem recently.  It does appear that all the autoparts places have stopped carrying inserts.  They'd rather sell you a $10-20 blade than a $1-2 insert it seems.  :-)  The good news is that my car dealer DOES still carry inserts, and they're only $1.20 a piece...  Try your dealer, could end up saving you a good deal of money down the road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T12:01:42.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:12:40.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research on some Saab forums.  I found that typically on US bound Saab 9-5 a bulb is installed on both sides.  However, the metal circuit on the passenger side is cut to disable that side.  This is to prevent the rear fog lights from appearing as brake lights (there are arguments about the legality of dual rear fog lights in certain US locations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the circuit can be soldered back together and to enable dual rear fog lights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T12:12:40.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1050" CreationDate="2011-06-03T14:01:49.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out tirerack.com - Valeo wipers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using them for several years now and really like them. They're the frameless type like JZD posted above. Buy one, get one free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T14:01:49.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-06-03T20:56:36.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with the already mentioned and more common reasons of Gouges, Warped or being too thin there is another reason for getting them turned/resurfaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using some higher quality brake pads, they will tell you if you are changing from one pad compound to another (either changing brands or product lines) to use new or re-surfaced rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes into play most often for brakes being used on sports cars for track events and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T20:56:36.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1027" CreationDate="2011-06-03T22:03:40.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider going to a &lt;strong&gt;detailer&lt;/strong&gt;. It's amazing how much they can do without actually painting anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T22:03:40.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-03T22:25:25.920" Score="6" ViewCount="3930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 LLBean with 88,000 miles on it. It rides worse than my old 2001 limited.&#xA;The ride is hard. I was told that as long as the struts are not leaking oil, they are fine.&#xA;Is this true? I thought it was the cheap Capitol tires on it. I put a set of Michelin mxv4s&#xA;on, and it made hardly any difference. Can it be the struts, or does the Bean have a hard ride?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="653" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T11:14:18.533" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T18:03:12.817" Title="Rough ride on  LL Bean Subaru, are the struts the cause?" Tags="|subaru|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2011-06-04T01:07:43.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to check the struts is to jounce the vehicle. Push down hard and release quickly on the bumpers and see how many times the vehicle bounces. It should be no more than 1.5 times, more than that and the struts are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T01:07:43.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1027" CreationDate="2011-06-04T06:51:02.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but probably not in the way you're thinking.  You can't just go out and buy a can of &quot;red spray paint&quot;, unless you are prepared to re-paint the whole car in that color or you &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; don't care about the results.  This is because your car isn't &quot;red&quot; (for example), it's &quot;Sierra Red (L D3V)&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you go to a professional paint supply shop you can get them to inject the specific color for your car into a spray can.  You can often get &quot;touch up&quot; bottles of paint in the exact color from your dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rust is another matter though...  If it's surface rust, you may be able to get away with just using primer that reacts with and neutralizes the rust, and then paint over that.  However, if the rust is &quot;flaking&quot; or working behind other parts of the paint, you're probably going to have to clean that out, for example with a wire wheel on a tool, possibly making the area you have to paint much larger.  It's either that or risk having to deal with a larger area (or a hole clean through) later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rust-reacting primers, like certain models of Rustoleum, work extremely well in my experience.  When I was younger I had a couple of cars that had varying degrees of paint damage near the wheel wells or on the front end, and was very happy with the rust-stopping results of Rustoleum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience though, if you want something that looks good, you need to do the whole panel.  And if you want something that looks really good, you have to do it with the right tools in a booth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T06:51:02.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1064" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Founded in 1919 by French industrialist André-Gustave Citroën (1878-1935), Citroën was the first mass-production car company outside the USA and pioneered the modern concept of creating a sales and services network that complements the motor car. Within eight years Citroën had become Europe’s largest car manufacturer, and the 4th largest in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1065" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" Score="0" Body="Citroën is a major French automobile manufacturer, part of the PSA Peugeot Citroën group.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T17:17:25.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1067" CreationDate="2011-06-04T18:12:08.993" Score="5" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Audi S4.  Last fall, I had maintenance performed on my car, and the shop accidentally, cracked my front fender.  They told me about it and replaced it without any issue.  However while replacing it, they took off and put back on my front bumper, where my ambient (outdoor) temperature sensor is housed.  But they forgot to replace the sensor in the bumper, and it remained dangling below the undercarriage, and eventually was torn off while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not notice anything incorrect for quite some time, but I started to realize that whenever it was raining (or the roads were wet), the temperature sensor dropped about 3F degrees per second, reaching -58F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not a big problem, this affected the heating and air conditioning air temperature.  I started using a new shop that specializes in Audi's that is fantastic, and found the problem, and replaced the sensor and its wiring.  The sensor now works fine in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the sensor does not work all the time.  Sometimes I will be driving, as I did recently from Durham, NC to Washington, DC, and between 2-3 hours into the drive, the temperature sensor drops from the current temperature of 80F to -58F, and then corrects itself, slowly going from -58 to the outside temperature.  This takes ~6 minutes.  A few minutes later, it does it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only does this complete cycle twice.  I am thoroughly confused on what could be happening.  It stops working without any change in temperature or the weather.  Any suggestions on how to resolve this weird outdoor temperature sensor issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="655" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-04T19:32:35.693" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T19:32:35.693" Title="Ambient temperature sensor reading -58 F degrees" Tags="|audi|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:02:55.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like one of two scenarios depending on the design. -58 is the lower limit and happens whenever the sensor has no connection, or a direct connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to unplug the sensor and look at the temp if it goes to -58 then you have a loose or open connection somewhere between the sensor and the computer. If when you unplug the sensor it goes high like 130 then you have a wire grounding out somewhere between the sensor and the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of the conditions is intermittent in your case which makes it more difficult to troubleshoot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visually inspect the wires and connectors from the sensor to as far back as you can follow them. The most likely place is in the area of the former damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T19:02:55.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1096" CreationDate="2011-06-04T20:33:08.140" Score="10" ViewCount="9223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for ideas on templates to use to record service for multiple vehicles.  Excel is preferred format, but open to all in interest of gathering ideas.  Anyone have any templates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T15:00:23.043" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T12:33:36.523" Title="Good template for keeping maintenance records?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="940" CreationDate="2011-06-05T03:24:48.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You lube the bearings until all the old grease is out. Can't really tell if 14oz is enough, but if using one of those fancy repackers, it might be. If replacing all together, just make sure there is enough grease in them. Some come pre-greased, but I would repack anyways. Can never really tell how long they been sitting in a parts room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:24:48.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="832" CreationDate="2011-06-05T03:29:27.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a possible air leak. This affects your mixture, and would likely be the cause of the problem. Have you tried replacing/tightening the clamps on the hose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:29:27.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="377" CreationDate="2011-06-05T03:35:24.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of BMWs have a noise, but it might be a pump going bad. If I remember right, the lines are right under the reservoir. Check them for softness, and if they are soft/chewy I guess you can replace them. If it's a pump, run until it pops, as they are like $400. As far as the lines from the rack, those are hard lines, and unless clearly pinched not sure if you can see anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:35:24.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1329" CreationDate="2011-06-06T06:18:14.777" Score="2" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a '66 Datsun Fairlady (called a Roadster in the USA) and the locking mechanism on the boot (trunk) is broken. If the correct key is inserted into the lock the mechanism turns but with no resistance and nothing happens. And without a key inserted the mechanism also turns with no resistance. I can tell that at some stage someone has tried to open it with a screwdriver because the lock has the tell tale signs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, how do I get my boot open?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, gaining access from the parcel shelf area isn't viable as there are no holes there at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only access to the boot interior that of I know of are the 2 small screw holes for the number plate, the small area provided when removing the tail lights at either side and one small (possibly non-standard) hole in the bottom of the boot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So far my plan is to poke some bent wire through one of these holes and try to latch onto the internals of the mechanism in order to get it to open. The trouble is, apart from this being a not great plan that could take me hours, that I have no idea what the internal mechanism looks like or how it operates so I don't know if I should be trying to push, pull or turn something.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any photos or diagrams of the mechanism or can describe what to do then that'd be great.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Otherwise I'm open to other tips or suggestions on how I should go about this. Perhaps I should be trying to pick or force the lock or some other such thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T08:42:48.550" Title="Open the boot (trunk) lid of a 66 Datsun Fairlady (Roadster) when the lock mechanism is broken" Tags="|locks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-06T06:44:13.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A multinational automaker headquartered in Japan. Formally marketed as Datsun until approx 1982-1984. Produces vehicles for worldwide use such as Altima, Maxima, Micra, Skyline &amp;amp; Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 1999, Nissan has been part of the Renault–Nissan Alliance, a partnership between Nissan and French automaker Renault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Motors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissan-global.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissans Official Web Site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nissan Logos&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlF4V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlF4V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nissan1988&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AZpCN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AZpCN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nissan2017&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2017-01-06T13:39:51.727" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T13:39:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1074" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-06T06:44:13.160" Score="0" Body="A multinational automaker headquartered in Japan. Formally marketed as Datsun until approx 1982-1984." OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T14:39:44.373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T14:39:44.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1072" CreationDate="2011-06-06T12:49:27.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a workshop manual or parts book for the car? These should at least give you an idea of what the mechanism looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option I can see would be to find someone else with another Fairlady (is there an owners club?) who would let you have a look at theirs, or email you photos if they aren't local. If you could get access to another car you could possibly use that as a guide to bend up an appropriate tool (i.e. bent coat hanger) to suit yours. Or you might even get lucky and find another access hole you'd missed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T12:49:27.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1027" CreationDate="2011-06-06T12:58:01.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to buy colour-matched automotive spray paint for your car in most larger car-parts shops (in the UK, Halfords sell a wide range, and their larger stores can match considerably more from manufacturer's paint codes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as others have said, it can be very tricky to get a good match as your paint will have faded, and the new will be matched to the original factory colour. You might be able to get away with it by using t-cut or similar to restore the original paint (they effectively work by removing the top layer of the paint, so don't try it too often!), then carefully blending in the new paint, but it's not easy - it depends how good you want the result to look!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got scratches strarting to rust you'll need to take them back to bare metal and paint with an etch primer first, otherwise the rust will spread under the new paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T12:58:01.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2011-06-06T13:05:59.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;EZM Web.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ezm-web.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ezm-web.com/&lt;/a&gt; - full disclosure I work there, but I saw your question on twitter and thought you might like to know about it. Full Vehicle Maintenance Module. Automated notification for maintenance on multiple vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up preventive maintenance schedules for a vehicle or for entire fleet maintenance in EZM Web CMMS software is easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular and recurring preventive maintenance, along with “non routine” (emergency) maintenance, can be scheduled quickly and easily. Simply enter routine preventive maintenance needed for each piece of equipment and its schedule (daily, weekly, monthly, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I  don't get a commission or anything so this is just information for you to use if you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and good luck, &#xA;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="667" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T13:05:59.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1082" CreationDate="2011-06-06T13:50:01.540" Score="10" ViewCount="2355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll need to help put wheels on a sedan that is currently parked on bricks near a building after &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/957/433&quot;&gt;some bad guys had stolen previous wheels&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll likely have only a basic wrench that was shipped with the car. Each wheel is to be held by five nuts each having M10 or similar diameter threading. The wrench has arm about one foot long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know how much force to apply to the wrench to ensure that nuts don't fall off later and also I don't damage nuts and don't break the wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T20:10:50.877" Title="How to ensure nuts holding wheels are properly tightened?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-06T15:45:26.443" Score="14" ViewCount="10783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can give you my cars make and model and the conditions that I drive in, but I'm looking for a general guide to selecting the right oil for a car. I'm not really knowledgable when it comes to cars so it needs to be simple. I need to know when and why selecting a synth oil is prefered. What are the differences between the different grades? (5/30 10/30 5/20 15/40 10/40) And anything else that goes into selecting an oil for a car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't give answers like &quot;&lt;em&gt;_&lt;/em&gt;_ brand is the best&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:09:58.780" Title="How do I select the right oil for my car?" Tags="|oil|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1078" CreationDate="2011-06-06T15:47:19.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With just a one foot arm, I don't think you could break the nuts or the wrench.  Applying the wrench with your full arm strength should be fine.  Then drive the car to a tire-shop or another location that you have a torque wrench to make sure the nuts are in specification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T15:47:19.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1079" CreationDate="2011-06-06T16:16:44.877" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in your owner's manual for the vehicle. It should have a good recommendation on the grade and whether synthetic oil is required.   In fact some vehicle mfg. will recommend a brand because that brand meets certain requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T16:16:44.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1078" CreationDate="2011-06-06T16:39:05.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most lug nuts should be torqued between 75-100 ft-lbs.  So applying the appropriate amount of body weight (lean into it really good) should be adequate until you get to somewhere with a proper torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note, is that you should always tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern so that you do not damage anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="668" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T16:39:05.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1079" CreationDate="2011-06-06T21:17:04.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I echo &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1079/how-do-i-select-the-right-oil-for-my-car/1081#1081&quot;&gt;jzd's answer&lt;/a&gt;. The car's owner's manual should tell you what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer some more of your question: numbers like &quot;5W30&quot; are viscosity ratings. They indicate how viscous (&quot;thick&quot;) the oil is. Most oils are &quot;multi-viscosity,&quot; quoting a range of weights (e.g., 5W30 instead of 30W) to indicate how they behave at different temperatures. The &quot;W&quot; stands for &quot;Winter&quot; and indicates how the oil performs at cold temperatures. For example, 10W30 oil is engineered to be as thin as straight 10 when cold but as thick as straight 30 when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Viscosity matters because too-thin oil won't lubricate the engine well enough, and too-thick oil will reduce engine efficiency, make it difficult to start in cold weather, and increase the engine wear caused by cold starts. Oil gets thinner as it gets hotter; your owner's manual may recommend different weights depending on the temperature where you live. Also, your engine will have been built to expect a certain thickness of oil between its moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing-on-the-label you might watch for is the quality rating. Any oil will have an American Petroleum Institute standard printed somewhere on the label; the oil you buy must meet or exceed the standard given in your owner's manual. You shouldn't have to worry about this unless your owner's manual goes out of the way to mention a minimum standard. Some manufacturers (such as Volkswagen) publish their own oil quality standards, in which case you'll want to do a little bit of Web searching to see if a particular variety of oil meets the automaker's standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic oil is generally considered better than conventional oil because it's more durable. Oil breaks down with time and use and becomes less effective as a lubricant. Synthetic holds up longer than conventional. Your engine ought to last longer if you use synthetic, but I don't know of any publicly-available hard evidence showing how much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided you change your oil on schedule, however, you won't be doing anything &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; by buying conventional (non-synthetic) oil. As a middle ground, there are some &quot;synthetic blends&quot; available, which are a mix of conventional and synthetic oil. They cost less than &quot;full synthetic&quot; oil. (This is what I use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the short answer is: do what it says in the owner's manual, and you'll be fine. You can read even more nitty-gritty details here if you're curious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T12:31:15.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2011-06-07T07:06:12.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; The problem was indeed a leaky exhaust system! Alarmingly, the service shop I had tasked with the repair did not find this leak, but another authorized dealer found and fixed it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm horrified that a repair shop can manage to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; find a fault like this, but glad to note that I'm not stupid: there really &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; a problem. Since then, I've sold the car for unrelated reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original post:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To follow up, here is how the problem was solved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The A/C was cleaned and disinfected, the coolant was replaced, and the cabin air filter was replaced by a carbon filter. This is something I like to have done every few years, for the sake of the health of the passengers, and it was long overdue on this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not sure where the smell came from, but apparently the new filter (and the cleaning) takes care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="510" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T20:12:02.650" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T20:12:02.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1086" CreationDate="2011-06-07T11:57:20.270" Score="10" ViewCount="74867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never torqued them before on several vehicles that I do tune ups on.  I just apply a bit of anti-seize lube and get them &quot;snug&quot; and everything seems to work fine.  Should I be using a torque wrench to ensure they are properly installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T03:57:59.310" Title="Do I need to torque my spark plugs?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-06-07T12:17:03.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally anything that has a torque value should be torqued to that value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With spark plugs the concern is not normally getting them tight enough, but instead to prevent over-tightening.  Stripping the threads on a spark plug is not good.  With that said, personally, I get them &quot;snug&quot; just as you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:17:03.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-06-07T12:24:36.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The interesting problem I've noticed is that torque values are typically given for &quot;clean and dry&quot;, but one will want to use anti-seize, which will affect the torque required for the correct stretch...  I always torque to spec with the anti-seize and hope for the best.  So far, no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:24:36.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1094" CreationDate="2011-06-07T15:43:07.167" Score="10" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; Chevy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Cavalier&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 1993 &lt;em&gt;(old I know)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn signal no longer works. The lights do not come on, and there is no &quot;ticking&quot; sound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Fuse for signal blows as soon as the car is turned on, and signal is activated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Hayne's manual for my car, and a good multimeter, but to be honest the wiring diagrams are mostly greek to me. I don't even know where to start in trying to figure out where the short might be, or how to fix the wiring. However, I would like to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice, tutorials, or resources would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T08:22:03.143" Title="Finding And Fixing A Short" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:46:03.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the spark plugs, at least the ones that I've purchased in the past, have a torque spec written on the box. My NGK plugs say 15lb ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T20:46:03.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2011-06-07T23:27:04.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was told that as long as the struts&#xA;  are not leaking oil, they are fine. Is&#xA;  this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this is not true.  Dampers can go bad without noticeable leaking.  However, dampers that wear out would not make the ride hard.  You may want to check the strut shafts to see if they are somehow restricted - maybe they are bent or maybe they are seized up by rust.  Any obstruction to the movement of the shaft would act as though you had a stiffer spring, i.e. making the ride harder (though if the obstruction was significant it would likely make the &quot;hard&quot; ride very severe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible that you are interpreting the the ride of your 2001 Limited as better because &lt;em&gt;those&lt;/em&gt; struts are worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the struts in the 2001 are not damping at the same rate, the overall spring rate will be changed and the car will react less to bumps in the road - mimicking a softer suspension that a more luxurious car would have.  The change in damping may be enough to make the ride seem smoother but not so much as to make the ride obviously under dampened (bouncy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, Subaru's are setup with a little stiffer suspension than many cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="654" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T23:05:35.370" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:05:35.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2011-06-07T23:30:20.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru transmissions are picky.  You'd be safest going with Subaru's Extra S, but it can be hard to get.  Not all dealerships carry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul Gear 300 are the only other oils I'm aware of Subaru owners having mostly good experiences with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't try anybody's &quot;cocktail&quot;. (if you visit the Subaru forums enough you're bound to bump into a few transmission oil cocktail recipes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 2001 Impreza RS that had the 4 speed automatic tranny.  A couple years ago I swapped it for a 5MT from a early 90's Legacy with over 250k miles on it.  That tranny is pretty noisy, probably a failing bearing, possibly on the input shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put Redline Shockproof in it for the first fill, and it performed very well.  I didn't have any trouble in the winter, and the noise of the transmission was reduced.  Now I have Extra S in it, and the noise is slightly louder and has a different tone.  I have not gone through a winter with the Extra S, however, so I'm still not certain what the next fluid change will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="654" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T23:13:09.113" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:13:09.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2011-06-07T23:34:47.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different outer tire diameters creates a different rate of rotation for each wheel.  Depending on the design of the differential, maintaining higher speeds for a lengths of time with great enough differences in rotational speeds can create too much heat, which I imagine leads to break down of the lubrication and damage to the differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be wise to follow the manufacturers guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T23:34:47.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1097" CreationDate="2011-06-08T04:55:35.900" Score="5" ViewCount="2402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back Story: I recently took my Geo Metro on a road trip. 2700 miles of road trip. The first 800 mile nothing happened. Then going up a hill it died, dropped from 75 mph to 55 mph then the engine kicked back in. It then did this on the next hill as well, and the next. After that it was fine even on the hills. On the return trip it happened once again on the same hill as the first time, then 700 miles later it happened again this time at a stop sign on small hill. When I was about 60 miles from home it started dying every  or 6 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle information:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4 cylinder motor  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details of stall:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No sputtering before it dies.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Electronics, such as radio still work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am at low speeds 50mph or below, I have to pull over and shut off completely (sometimes wait a minute) then restart.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have checked or replaced:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The air intake temperature sensor was the only computer warning - Replaced&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuel filter - Replaced&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Distributor cap and Rotor - Replaced&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ignition control module - Passed tests at Autozone&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spark plugs and cables - Replaced and gapped properly&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuel Pressure - I setup a gauge to monitor it and took it for a test drive. It maintained 20 psi when idling, 25 -30 psi when driving, and 20 psi when it stalled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: So far I have been thinking it was electric because of the lack of sputter. Am I right in this assessment? If I am what else to check? If not, what should I be checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I am planning on replacing the ignition coil with one from a junkyard. New would cost $95, junkyard is $7.99&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T03:38:39.843" Title="1997 Geo Metro dies after driving for a short time. What next in diagnosing culprit" Tags="|electrical|fuel-system|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1088" CreationDate="2011-06-08T08:22:03.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My immediate thought there was the flasher relay. Pull this out and either test it outside the car or swap it for a known-good one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not the fault, then as you rightly point out, you need to make sense of the wiring diagram... The key thing here is the wire colours. Most cars have two-colour wiring, with a main colour and a trace colour (i.e. the little stripe down one side). If you can identify that you ought to be able to identify where each wire enters and exits the loom. However, it is usually easier to identify the circuit components and work from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to a Chevy wiring diagram, but I would imagine it to work as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;battery -&gt; ignition switch -&gt; fuse box -&gt; flasher relay -&gt; signal switch -&gt; bulbs -&gt; ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this is slightly different if hazard warning lights are fitted, I don't know if you use them over there? or are they a European thing? )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you know the battery and ignition are working, so I'd start by removing the fuse and relay and checking as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12v at fuse box 'live'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ground at bulb earth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relay power and ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;continuity between fuse output and relay input&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no short between 4 and battery -ve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;switch operation (disconnect it if you can)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat 4 and 5 for relay-&gt;switch and switch-&gt;lamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd still suspect the relay first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(p.s. 1993 isn't old, it's not even 20 yet!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T08:22:03.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-06-08T11:01:39.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the lower torque values, the general consensus that I've come across working on cars with club members having experience far beyond my own is just do it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most items, you don't need to get it to the exact torque, you just need to know how hard to crank on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something has a 15-20 lb ft rating just get it snug, if it is 30-40 lb ft, give it a little more effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @jzd mentioned, that is more so you know not to put a lot of force onto the bolt and risk causing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On components with higher torque value ratings, you want to torque them to spec to make sure you've applied enough force.  Such as yesterday when I was putting my crank bolt back in, I used my wrench set at 94 lb ft as the spec was 90-98.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T11:01:39.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2011-06-08T11:24:58.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mine in just a simple spreadsheet, I use Google Docs rather than Excel so that it is easily accessible from any computer (and my phone now) and much less likely to lose the data as Google is taking care of it instead of sitting on an aging hard drive with likely no backups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The columns are description, part number, price, quantity, vendor, manufacturer, website link, date purchased, date installed, mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sheets for items installed, waiting install, spare parts, wish list and tools (tools is separate and doesn't have install date and mileage so that I can track it not being car specific).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I move the line from sheet to sheet when appropriate, filling in the additional information. Such as move a part from wish list to waiting install, updating the price if it changed and mark the purchase date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the divided sheets make it easy to quickly summarize the prices to see how much money I've spent or how much money I need for new stuff.  The installed sheet is in order of date installed so you can see the maintenance history of the car in a time progression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For multiple cars you could either add a column of what car it applies to or just keep individual spreadsheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MPG Tracking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I thought I'd mention here also that I track my fuel mileage on a per tank basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I described my method in this answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1113/does-the-tachometer-provide-any-indication-of-fuel-usage/1117#1117&quot;&gt;Does the tachometer provide any indication of fuel usage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the maintenance records along with the MPG history is very useful as you can look see the impact of general maintenance work or aftermarket parts added to the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T18:54:01.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1093" CreationDate="2011-06-08T11:40:14.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coil does seem like a likely candidate.  I had a coil on my car that would intermittantly kick in/out (dual coil setup, so I would sometimes have all 4 cyl firing, sometimes just 2).  Took months before we finally figured out it was the one coil.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T11:40:14.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1078" CreationDate="2011-06-08T20:10:50.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a torque wrench, sears sells a basic (non-click) mechanical model for around $20.00 to $30.00.  Find out what the torque specs for that particular car is.  if its a GM vehicle their nearly 100ft lbs across the board.  If its an import vehicle 80ft lbs is a safe number till you can get accurate torque specs from a dealer or thru online research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you over-torque you have the potential or striping the threads on the hub or the bolts themselves which isn't good either way.  Take the time and spend the money to get the right tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T20:10:50.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1044" CreationDate="2011-06-08T20:14:02.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the seals where the axle-back attaches to the stock exhaust, you may have leak which can change the pressure and thus the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T00:50:32.193" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T00:50:32.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2011-06-08T20:57:35.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;how about something like this? &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0013NJX7Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/LED-License-Plate-Light-Strip/dp/B0013NJX7Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T20:57:35.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:05:56.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about these lights as I discovered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/973/85&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1POY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHROME-WHITE-LED-LIGHT-NUMBER-PLATE-SCREW-BOLTS-1-pair-/180526358897?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&amp;amp;hash=item2a0835a171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CHROME WHITE LED LIGHT NUMBER PLATE SCREW BOLTS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/LPL55CB.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Or this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oSCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like you just drill a hole for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=2&amp;amp;fId=9&amp;amp;pId=2119&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtJUI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:05:56.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1103" CreationDate="2011-06-09T06:22:57.400" Score="13" ViewCount="14111" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ytmag.com/articles/restore/8ncarb/artint231_pg1.htm&quot;&gt;article on overhauling the carbs&lt;/a&gt; on a Ford 8N tractor says to use a flare nut wrench to disconnect the fuel line. How important is it use that kind of wrench, vs. an open ended wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:41:03.677" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:41:03.677" Title="How important is it to use a real flare nut wrench when removing the fuel line on an old Ford tractor?" Tags="|ford|tools|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1102" CreationDate="2011-06-09T10:02:36.530" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a flare nut wrench (aka line wrench) should be used if it is calling for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning for using a flare wrench over an open ended wrench is that you can grip all sides of the fitting just like you can with a box wrench but the opening at the end of the wrench allows you to slip over the connected hose/line unlike a box wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to apply more torque with less likeliness of slipping and rounding it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size and material the fitting is made from, it can be very easy to round off, the flare wrench lowers that chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T10:02:36.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1106" CreationDate="2011-06-09T17:09:05.277" Score="10" ViewCount="272911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had to top up my car's radiator fluid twice in the last month after discovering that the expansion tank (plastic container where one usually tops up) had completely drained out (roughly a gallon). The first time, I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car in the morning. I live in a hot climate and make heavy use of the A/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What possible reasons could cause radiator fluid to overflow? It looks like there is too much pressure inside the cooling system. Is this symptomatic of a clogged line or something else? If so, what action could be taken to minimize/eliminate loss of coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has an LS1 engine, in case that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:38:22.697" Title="Reasons for loss of radiator fluid" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1109" CreationDate="2011-06-09T17:38:06.807" Score="13" ViewCount="86711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '07 Chevy Malibu and would like to know how to program the key.  I lost the original, but was able to get a spare from the dealership.  I do not want to pay the locksmith $150 to program the key.  What is the procedure for doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T04:24:05.537" Title="How do I program a Chevy Malibu Key with chip in it?" Tags="|malibu|key|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1104" CreationDate="2011-06-09T17:50:18.250" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt the fluid is overflowing.   You most likely have a leak somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common locations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plastic container that you top off has a leak.  (Check underneath it for puddles, also make sure the hose between it and the radiator is not leaking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator (Look on the bottom for drips, it is typically behind the grill in front of the engine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water Pump (This one can be harder to spot leaks with, normally is powered by a belt and has at least one large hose if not two between it and the radiator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the cooling hoses (You can give them a little squeeze to see if they are hardening up and to see if fluid leaks out anywhere.  You should be replacing the upper/lower radiator hoses occasionally as it is, so definitely give them a check if you haven't replaced them in the last few years.)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head Gasket or other engine gasket (harder to spot, check the other places first and look for oil in the coolant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator cap &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key really is to find the leak, so if you can see where fluid lands on the ground, try to follow it up to the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T17:50:18.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1104" CreationDate="2011-06-09T17:50:58.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various possibilities come to mind based on issues I've had with my cars over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaky radiator cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked expansion tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked hose/hose with pinhole in it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose hoseclamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improperly seated hose (at an angle, not straight on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T17:50:58.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1105" CreationDate="2011-06-09T18:02:58.993" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here it the procedure for 're-learning' the master key for my Chevy Malibu.  I &lt;em&gt;assume&lt;/em&gt; that most Chevy's that have a transponder work this way well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With an unlearned master vehicle key, turn ON the ignition, but not the engine:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50ZGw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait for roughly 10 minutes (mine was slightly longer) for the 'security indicator' to turn off:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8c6UN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the ignition completely OFF and wait for roughly 5 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat steps 1-3 for two more times for a total of 3 cycles (roughly 30 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: it is important to complete all steps of the third cycle, especially step three, as this is how the vehicle learns the key transponder information.  In other words, before starting the car, you must turn off the ignition and wait 5 seconds first&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the key you just programmed, turn the key and start the car.  The key is now operable on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090529144549AAVeNo0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;WARNING: all other keys you may have previously had will no longer work, and must be re-programmed as well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to reprogram additional keys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the master vehicle key that is already programmed, and turn the ignition to ON (with engine OFF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch the 'security indicator' until it's solid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition off and quickly replace the key you wish to program&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition to ON (engine OFF) and wait until the 'security indicator' turns solid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Key is now programmed and should now start the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T18:02:58.993" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1700" CreationDate="2011-06-10T00:05:51.207" Score="4" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 GMC Sierra k1500 with a 305 (5.0L) engine.  It seems like every year for a few years now it will suddenly start missing very badly.  There will be random misfires on all cylinders almost no power.  The first time I replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button and it fixed it.  The last couple of times I think I only replaced the distributor cap and rotor button to fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day it started again.  I'm getting tired of doing this every year.  Does anybody have an idea why this keeps happening?  Is there a way I can diagnose what part of the ignition system is at fault without buying parts and swapping things out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I had it serviced the guy told me he thought my intake manifold gasket was leaking because he could see some oil on the front of the motor.  I haven't noticed any oil  or coolant leaks in my driveway.  Its not smoking and I don't think my oil has any coolant in it.  Given that, I don't feel like the intake gasket is related to my immediate problem or is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T19:12:15.250" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T14:44:35.060" Title="97 GMC k1500 missing badly. Ignition system problems?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1111" CreationDate="2011-06-10T13:44:11.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the intake gasket is related.  My wife's Toyota developed a weird low rpm miss (to the point that it would nearly stall sometimes when the A/C was on) when the intake manifold gasket failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T13:44:11.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1117" CreationDate="2011-06-10T19:12:20.923" Score="6" ViewCount="3950" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm driving along on the highway with the A/C blasting when I notice the price of gas. It makes me think, &quot;what can I do to increase my fuel efficiency?&quot; Some of the tips I've heard have included turning off (or at least reducing) the A/C, slowing down, and even drifting behind a large truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I started trying each of these tips, one by one, but I wanted to know how to get feedback on whether they are really working. But I am looking for something a little bit more immediate than refueling and calculating the amount of fuel consumed over the number of miles driven. I also understand that there are devices one can install to give some indication of fuel usage at a given point in time, but I don't have one of those either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, I'm just looking for even a rough estimate on whether a change is making a difference, and to be able to compare that with the difference from other changes. Can the tachometer be at all useful in trying to measure this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:55:02.557" Title="Does the tachometer provide any indication of fuel usage?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2011-06-10T19:20:17.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it.  The engine simply uses more fuel to maintain the current rotations per minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're at idle and you notice your revs dip and then come back up that's an indication that a load was just brought onto the motor (the motor would stall or lug if more fuel wasn't added).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scangauge.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ScanGauge II&lt;/a&gt; and at proper operating temperature with AC off I idle around 0.2 gallons per hour and with AC working in summer heat it'll idle around 0.4 gallons per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T19:20:17.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2011-06-10T20:19:04.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a bald indication without other context, no, the tachometer is insufficient to tell you much about fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your trip odometer and fuel gauge are your only truly useful (and built-in) measures.  Reset the trip after a fill-up and make a mental note of when you hit the 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 marks on the fuel gauge.  While the fuel gauge might not terribly accurate quantitatively, almost all of them are self-consistent (they're generally always wrong in the same way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also note something interesting about human nature: as soon as you start to measure something about your performance, it will start to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T20:19:04.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-10T20:25:22.067" Score="6" ViewCount="14804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this strange problem with my Nissan Sentra 2002(80K miles). When it is about 90 deg F outside and driven more than about 10 miles the engine seems to miss badly(like for e.g. when you run out of fuel). The tacho also flips around during this. This gradually becomes more frequent until the engine finally stalls. After about half an hour the car runs fine until the engine heats up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the winter however there have been no problems driving these distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer I took it to the dealer when the check engine light came on and they decoded and said I needed to replace all 4 ignition coils and reset the check engine. I bought the coils and took them to the local mechanic but he said that the coils may not be the problem at all and even if it was you don't need to replace all 4 of them. He said he could fix it by decoding the code the next time the check engine light came on.&#xA;However it hasn't come on yet and this problem is persistent. I had the coils returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research on the internet shows up that the bad ignition coils can cause similar problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what might be the problem here and what is the best possible way to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastEditorUserId="682" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T02:45:48.693" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T20:06:21.540" Title="Engine stalls in hot weather" Tags="|engine|nissan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2011-06-10T23:27:45.317" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the tachometer can not be related to fuel efficiency as the tachometer is measuring the amount of rotations per minute (RPMs) of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same gear and at the same speed your tachometer will always be at the same RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can be at 2000 RPMs and be barely touching the gas pedal (or completely off of it) because you are coasting down a hill or you can be at 2000 RPMs towing a trailer up a hill with the pedal to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things you really can try to infer from your tachometer would be the higher your RPMs, the more likely it is that you are burning more fuel assuming all other factors are the same.  If you change your cruising speed to keep the tach at 2000 RPMs instead of 2500 RPMs, then yes, you will probably save fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other one would be fluctuations, the more consistent you are the less energy you will waste.  So if you can keep your tachometer at a steady RPM you will likely be saving fuel because you are just maintaining speed instead of accelerating and decelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Experience with my car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Going back to the uphill/downhill, my car has a MPG readout that is in near real time.  Instead of showing average fuel consumption over a period of time, every couple of seconds it displays the current MPG.  This is good and bad, it makes it hard for me to have an idea of my overall MPG as it changes too much (so I track my MPG per fill up) but it is interesting to see the result of individual actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heavy acceleration, I can get down to 1-2 MPG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sitting idling at a red light, 0 MPG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;City driving about 45 MPH in 4th gear, mid 20s MPG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Freeway driving cruising 70 MPH in 5th gear, low 30s MPG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Uphill usually drops into the 10-20 MPG range.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Downhill in gear with foot off the throttle, gauge maxes out at 99 MPG. (When in gear with my foot off the throttle, my engine receives absolutely no fuel, the engine is actually being driven by the rotation of the wheels instead of the rotation of the engine driving the wheels at that point, so in theory your MPG is infinite at that point in time).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually average out to 19-22 MPG per tank, so these real time numbers are hard to equate to that as the amount of time you spend on each of those numbers VS the amount of fuel burned in that period of time is too hard to keep track of.  (Try to calculate in your head while driving what your average fuel consumption is of 8 seconds at 3 MPG followed by 5 minutes of 20-25 MPG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual MPG Tracking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Without a meter on the car, your easiest way to measure your overall fuel consumption is to top off your tank every time you fill up and record the miles on your odometer and the amount of fuel put into the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time you do this fill up is to create a starting point, you can't get a number off of this first fill up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time and for each thereafter, you get the amount of miles traveled by subtracting your current miles from the miles at your last fill up (you can get this number by using your tripmeter too, but I've too often accidentally cleared my tripmeter or had to disconnect my battery, losing the information and having to start over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the number of gallons you just put in the car and divide it by the number of miles traveled since last fill up, this is your MPG over that period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to fill up without filling it up, keep track of the gallons put in and add them to the gallons put in on the next fill up, then do the same calculation (using the current odometer reading and the one from the last full fill up, not the partial tank fill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method isn't as accurate as sensors and gauges as there will be some fluctuation in the cutoff point of filling up the tank each time, the more often you can use the same pump at the same gas station, the more consistent it will be, but even with filling up at different stations, the variance won't be huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Write this all down in a notebook in your car, or use a spreadsheet on your computer, and you will have a historical record of your mileage.  You can monitor this number as if you start to see the number starting to drop more and more, you probably have an issue with your car and need to get it fixed, saving you from burning away your gas and money needlessly.  You can also watch keep note of when you did things to your car (filled tires, changed oil, spark plugs, transmission fluid/oil, etc) and see how the maintenance of your car impacts your mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made notes on my sheet of when I changed my clutch, exhaust, gear oil, oil changes, radiator, etc and also made note of when I've made a long trip or gone to a driving event with my car to see what variance those events caused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:27:45.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1104" CreationDate="2011-06-10T23:44:27.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overflow is a possibility if you are overheating or do not have the proper mixture of antifreeze and water causing the fluid to boil creating excessive pressure and evacuating the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water alone has a boiling point of 100C/212F.  The addition of antifreeze to the mixture alters this boiling point (and lowers the freezing point, hence the name antifreeze, but the &quot;antiboil&quot; nature is just as important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you adding straight water to the system? Pre-mixed 50/50 coolant? Or home mixed coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it was last flushed and filled, what was it filled with? (same choices as above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase a coolant freezing/boiling point tester from most auto parts stores and even in the auto department of places such as WalMart for a few dollars.  You suck up some of the coolant into the tester and it tells you what temperatures it can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:44:27.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="447" CreationDate="2011-06-11T03:40:08.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are talking about a Vespa PX - according to the manual you should get 260Km on a tank. I think this is if you are a very small Italian and travel at a constant 60km/hr. Specs for newer Vespas like the GTS 250 have to conform to EU measurement standards and therefore are more realalistic. Your 150 km is about what I get for mixed riding - I get 130 Km full throttle on motorways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agree with the other answer (tire pressure, weight, etc). In addition you can try a windscreen to reduce your drag (or drive around in a race position). Tyre pressure reduces rolling resistance but aerodynamic drag is your biggest enemy. Also avoid puffy jackets (you should be wearing a motorcycle jacket for protection anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example my wife and I road for 100km on similar Vespa's, I had a screen and she didn't, I used 1 litre less. The screen also makes you go faster :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T03:40:08.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2011-06-12T01:41:56.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sputtering like out of gas sounds like a fuel issue to me.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it is the fuel, you can test the fuel pressure. If the pressure drops when the car dies, that would indicate the fuel pump, pressure regulator or fuel filter may be bad or clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tachometer flipping around throws me for a loop. Not sure what that indicates. Is it actually flipping back and forth between high rpms and low rpms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to agree with your mechanic about it not being all four coils going out at once. It may be farther up the electrical system, like the control module. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check engine light may have not been related to the stalling problem. On a similar stalling problem that I had, the engine codes said an air sensor was out. I replaced the part, but it wasn't the issue at all. Just coincidence. Ironically, mine seems to be running good after replacing the ignition coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T01:41:56.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1128" CreationDate="2011-06-12T21:06:49.843" Score="8" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just recently found a rather large hole in my windshield washer supply line.  So I'm trying to figure out how I am going to repair this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I get new tubing and just re-run it?  Is this an easy repair or would bringing it into a shop be worthwhile?  Would I just end up with a tank of washer fluid on my face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I patch the hole?  It is pretty large altough I imagine a shrink-fit sleeve would likely be able to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific car is a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="692" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T14:55:47.497" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:58:59.430" Title="How should I go about replacing a windshield washer fluid line" Tags="|pontiac|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1126" CreationDate="2011-06-12T21:23:31.817" Score="43" ViewCount="158896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have way too much oil in my Acura TSX.  Do I need to take care of it without turning it on or can I drive it to a service station?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to do it in place, I don't have the ramps or a pan or the daylight left and my wife needs the car in the morning.   Can I siphon the oil out of the top?  If so, what type of tubing won't be dissolved by the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;========&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to laugh, yes I'm an idiot.  The car's been great for years and years and I've never been good about checking the oil.  Just regular oil changes and there's been no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second to last oil change, they sold me on synthetic and said I'd be good for a year.  Well, after a year and many miles, turned out the engine was almost dry!  Apparently &quot;one year&quot; was a bad recommendation.  No damage done, but close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, now I've been anxious about running out of oil, so I checked it an saw very little oil on the dipstick.  Since it's been so long, I'd forgotten what to expect - &quot;that's a long piece of metal with nothing on it&quot;, I think.  So I get a big jug, enough for a full oil change, and empty into my engine.  Only once the oil level doesn't rise nearly as far as I expected do I realize I made a mistake.  My only excuse is that the dipstick level indicators are very subtle on the TSX, just two holes.  I was looking at the big bends (what are they for anyway?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T23:18:23.917" Title="How far can I drive with 1 gallon too much oil?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2011-06-13T02:10:45.047" Score="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't wrecked the car but you should get the oil down to the appropriate level.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil isn't hot, almost any sort of plastic tubing can be used for siphoning.  It's easiest to go in via the dip stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember not to use the &quot;suck start&quot; siphoning method as you don't want a mouthful of oil.  If you have a long enough piece of tubing, you can stick the excess down the dipstick tube, put your thumb over the end, pull out the slack (that is now full of oil) and you'll have an immediate siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to siphon the oil back into the original container - you might as well keep it until you do need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vote is that you take care of it yourself - I hate letting other people know that I made a goof, especially if I can fix it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T02:10:45.047" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-13T13:42:52.383" Score="3" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for the Glass Run Rubber for a 1994 D21 Nissan Truck (what the window rolls up into on the outside of the vehicle door).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local dealership said the factory part numbers are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/-p-221553.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;80335N (RH)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/-p-221555.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;80336N (LH)&lt;/a&gt;, but the dealership price is about $140 for each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$280 + Shipping ($300) seems extravagant for a 1994 vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I could find wholesale or equivalent aftermarket items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0F2nZ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;803 Front Door Window &amp;amp; Regulator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T17:11:52.470" Title="Aftermarket Glass Run Rubber (for '94 Nissan D21 Truck)" Tags="|maintenance|nissan|parts|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1124" CreationDate="2011-06-13T14:58:59.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to replace the tubing. Most parts stores sell it by the foot. Just take in a piece of of to match up the size and get a few more feet than you think need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:58:59.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1127" CreationDate="2011-06-13T17:11:52.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Door rubber has been expensive forever.  Try an auto wreckers, but be aware many will not stock parts for cars over ten years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="695" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T17:11:52.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2011-06-13T17:33:31.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ride on my Soob is getting harsher, and is likely due to the struts wearing out.  The mechanism for controlling the response of the strut is not simple, so IMHO there is not a simple, single failure mode of the ride getting bouncy.  That may have been the case for shock absorbers of yore, though, just not with the sophisticated modern suspensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of places online that sell OEM Subaru parts at a discount, I have no experience with any of them; they do offer around $110 a strut or so last I checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow me to expand.  Modern shock absorbers use a number of valves and orifices to achieve the ride characteristics desired by the OEM.  The shocks are also pressurized to prevent cavitation and increase performance.  They are more sophisticated hydraulic systems certainly than fifty years ago.  As the complexity goes up, the more there is to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="695" LastEditorUserId="695" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T18:03:12.817" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T18:03:12.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-06-13T17:47:43.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my brakes with assistance from my father-in-law to be able to do it myself, and avoid being needlessly gouged by mechanic shops. He was of the mind set that under most circumstances it's unnecessary to have the rotors resurfaced when changing brakes. What he had me do instead was to take some fine-grit sand paper (I used 600), and sand the rotor perpendicularly to the grooves, on both sides, in order help seat the pads better. It's been a few months and everything seems fine with the work I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:52:54.833" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:52:54.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1278" CreationDate="2011-06-13T19:38:19.000" Score="5" ViewCount="11709" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just fired up my motorcycle after 3 years in storage. Changed the oil and replaced the fuel in the tank. It starts easily. It is leaking fuel from somewhere under the gas tank. The engine has a caburetor (not fuel injected). Some reading tells me common problems are dry o-rings or gummed up carbs causing them to overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I should try before starting the daunting task of dissassembling the carbs?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(replace fuel filter, fuel additives, run the bike for a while?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T21:53:49.637" Title="Motorcycle Leaking Fuel (1999 CBR600 F4)" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:45:31.800" Score="5" ViewCount="64160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I start my 2003 Honda Civic each morning and drive to work. A few hundred feet down the road, the engine will sometimes behave as though it is running out of gas and lose power momentarily.  It doesn't completely stall, I ignore it or pump the gas, and it sputters and then runs normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took it to a mechanic and they said the air intake was full of leaves and stuff, cleared out it, but that didn't fix it.  They didn't see anything else wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It only happens once per drive, just after it's started to move down the road.  After it recovers, it's fine for the rest of the trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems to happen more often when it's humid or raining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a humid night, with the windows all fogged up, I used a mister to spray even more water all around the ignition coils while idling, and I didn't see any arcs or anything.  Engine kept running normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the spark plugs, and the old ones looked like this:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdJvi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cylinder 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/20e7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cylinder 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took all the ignition coils out and looked over them in the sunlight, but didn't see any cracks or contamination.  The gaskets/boots on 2 of them were kind of buckled inward?  But they looked like they still sealed well.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a few days after I took them out and wiped them off and put them back in, it was a little harder to start?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No check engine lights &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1874/31&quot;&gt;except P0420 occasionally&lt;/a&gt;, even after replacing the cat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T12:59:56.453" Title="What would cause a car to lose power a few seconds after starting, then run normally?" Tags="|engine|civic|fuel-system|p0420|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1146" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:54:22.217" Score="12" ViewCount="18907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this 2003 Honda Civic checked out by a mechanic before I bought it, and the mechanic said &lt;s&gt;it looked like the timing belt hadn't been changed&lt;/s&gt; he couldn't tell if the timing belt had been changed.  &lt;s&gt;How would they have checked this?&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The woman who drove the car didn't protest when they said this, but later, the boyfriend who actually owned the car disagreed, and said it had been changed by the dealer before they bought it, within the last year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a precautionary measure if it's already been done.  Is there any way to tell without actually taking the entire engine apart, to the point where you might as well replace it anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T05:14:16.627" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T20:59:21.287" Title="Is there a way to tell if a timing belt has been changed without actually changing it?" Tags="|honda|civic|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-13T21:00:48.740" Score="25" ViewCount="282349" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's manual says to use the blue Honda coolant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Always use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0089LSFJ0&quot;&gt;Honda All Season&#xA;  Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2&lt;/a&gt; [&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Coolant_-_Honda.pdf&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt;]. This&#xA;  coolant is pre-mixed with 50 percent&#xA;  antifreeze and 50 percent water. It&#xA;  does not require any additional&#xA;  mixing. If it is not available, you may&#xA;  use another major-brand non-silicate&#xA;  coolant as a temporary replacement.&#xA;  Make sure it is a high-quality coolant&#xA;  recommended for aluminum engines.&#xA;  However, continued use of any non-&#xA;  Honda coolant can result in&#xA;  corrosion, causing the cooling&#xA;  system to malfunction or fail. Have&#xA;  the cooling system flushed and&#xA;  refilled with Honda antifreeze/&#xA;  coolant as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Prestone claims their green coolant is harmless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://prestone.com/products/antifreeze_coolant/product_list#product-378&quot;&gt;Prestone® Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant&lt;/a&gt; is compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant – regardless of color – for use in ALL makes and models of cars and light duty trucks. This patented formula provides a high degree of performance durability and carefully balanced protection against temperature extremes and rust corrosion of all cooling system metals, including aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who should I believe?  Will it really result in corrosion if used more than temporarily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please provide reliable references for any claim you make.&lt;/strong&gt;  The internet is already full of opinions and hearsay about this stuff, most of which are contradictory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T02:32:28.693" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T15:07:34.267" Title="Is Prestone &quot;All Makes/All Models&quot; coolant *really* compatible with all models?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|coolant|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1148" CreationDate="2011-06-13T22:07:26.197" Score="8" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an oil leak from a cracked valve cover gasket that i want to replace myself.  I bought the gasket nearly 6 months ago and i am apprehensive at doing it myself without sort of feed back as to what i should pay attention / be careful about.  My ride is a 2002 Mazda Protege5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Label the spark plug wires to make&#xA;sure i put them back in the same&#xA;order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the exposed valves with&#xA;something to prevent debris from&#xA;falling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i want to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do i need to apply something to the&#xA;gasket to make a better seal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this what else do i need know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="696" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T16:57:07.890" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T03:56:22.937" Title="What do i need to know when replacing a valve cover gasket" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1145" CreationDate="2011-06-14T01:13:00.373" Score="3" ViewCount="29448" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a trip to the beach, the SRS indicator in my 2003 Honda Civic is lit continuously.  I don't think I have side airbags.  A somewhat wet person sat in the passenger seat, and I moved the driver seat forward and backward to its extremes trying to find something under it.  What might have caused this change?  It hasn't come on before in the 4 months that I've owned it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to read out a trouble code with the OBD, or is that just for Check Engine lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T11:36:36.393" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T05:04:31.137" Title="Why might SRS indicator light continuously?" Tags="|honda|civic|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1104" CreationDate="2011-06-14T01:28:11.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a head gasket leak from the cylinder into the coolant that was pushing coolant out the top of the overflow tank.  Wash off the overflow tank after filling it, so it's easy to see if it's coming out the top or from somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T01:28:11.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1143" CreationDate="2011-06-14T02:20:54.397" Score="5" ViewCount="5365" Body="&lt;p&gt;My used 2003 Honda Civic has a broken lug stud on one wheel, which I've still managed to get a nut onto, and a stripped stud on another wheel, which I can't, so I'm driving with 3 out of 4 on one wheel.  I could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the studs&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$2 each, but requires a press?  Which I don't have.  Don't know how much a mechanic would charge to do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the hubs&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$70 each&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chase the threads on the stripped stud&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried to do this with a file and it didn't work.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/murray-tools-split-die-thread-repair-m12x150.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this tool&lt;/a&gt; that I could put below the stripped threads and work back out, but it costs $30 for something I'll never use again, and I'm not sure whether it affects safety to have formerly-stripped threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best thing to do?  How important is it to have all the lug nuts on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T11:10:48.157" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T11:10:48.157" Title="Stripped/broken lug stud" Tags="|honda|wheels|civic|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-14T04:02:06.667" Score="6" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my concerns before purchasing a car is how expensive repairs are going to be down the road. For example my car up until recently was a Volvo 850, and the air conditioner didn't work in it; the cost of getting it fixed was significantly higher than other cars because of the way the A/C unit is installed in the car, so I went on without air conditioning. Another example is the service light in the car - while the car had a standard OBD-II port which could read error messages, it required a special Volvo reader to reset the service light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of generalizations can be made about one make versus another, but those are obviously not allowed on this site &lt;sub&gt;(in fact, I hope this question is allowed at all...)&lt;/sub&gt; - so that's not what I'm looking for. And I know there is a wide range of problems a car can encounter, and many of them are universal - replacing tires, for (a bad) example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;just like I can go to KBB and look up the recommended price of a car, is there someplace I can go to look up a make &amp;amp; model of a car and see what proprietary, extra-expensive parts are in the car?&lt;/strong&gt; Something that, for example, I could have put in the Volvo 850 and it would have told me about those above-mentioned peculiarities alongside undoubtedly a number of other proprietary bits that I didn't have problems with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T23:12:31.157" Title="How to find out the &quot;serviceability&quot; of a car?" Tags="|parts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1142" CreationDate="2011-06-14T05:44:43.253" Score="10" ViewCount="58122" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type and size air compressor (HP, Tank Size, CFM, direct drive/2 stage... etc) would be suitable for a home garage where I'm going to do small amounts of maintenance but nothing major?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I would need to be able to use a tyre inflator and a impact wrench, I'd like to be able to do small amounts of spray painting but I don't plan to respray an entire car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not asking about specific brands or a models, I want more general info than that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:40:44.340" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T07:29:38.020" Title="What is a suitable air compressor for a home garage?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1141" CreationDate="2011-06-14T09:34:03.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest looking at the tools you plan to purchase for use with the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air tools will list what CFM @ X PSI they need to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the most important number, to make sure it can supply the air flow your tools need to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, horsepower and tank size are going to be how much money you are willing to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger tank will be able to supply air for longer, higher horsepower will be able to fill a tank faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower typically goes up with tank size otherwise the fill times would get severely long but check the ratios of Power to Size.  For example I've seen a 2.5HP 8 gallon and a 2.5HP 10 gallon in the same product line.  So in that case, the 8 gallon can fill faster and was actually rated to provide higher CFM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inflating tires, pretty much any compressor can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact Wrench (guessing that is what you mean be Rattle Gun) I've seen call for 3-8 CFM @ 90 PSI depending on drive size, torque rating and manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Ratchets, I've seen 3-5 CFM @ 90 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools that really eat up your air supply are the ones that you keep on for longer periods of time such as grinders and cut off tools.  An impact wrench should do its job with a couple quick pulls of the trigger whereas a grinder you can have on for several minutes at a time when you are working on a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T09:34:03.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1139" CreationDate="2011-06-14T11:09:33.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going with 3 out of 4 nuts is not a huge deal, especially if the 3 nuts you have are on solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I would not suggest doing this long term, 4 out of 4 going to be better, and what happens if you lose another stud at an inconvenient time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a 2003, I would guess it is time to change the hubs out anyway if you haven't already.  I would suggest going ahead and going that route.   If the hubs are not nearing replacement then I would suggest letting a mechanic put the new studs in, I would expect the total cost in the $20-$50 range (really rough estimate, check with your mechanic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T11:09:33.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1140" CreationDate="2011-06-14T11:23:15.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of sites that have reliability statistics about vehicles. I think msn.autos list common problems and typical costs for the repair of those problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big factor is the price of the parts.   Parts for vehicles that were produced in large numbers are generally cheaper.  So you should expect parts for a Nissan GTR to be more expensive then a Versa.  Also, parts for luxury vehicles are typically more expensive.  For example at GM, pricing for the same part at a Cadillac dealership is typically more expensive then a Chevy dealership. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is your mechanic.  Dealership's are going to be far more pricey than local shops.  However, a poor mechanic anywhere is going to waste your time and money.  Look for ASE Certification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, if you are buying used, then the previous owner is typically going to be a big factor as well.  Where they rough on the car?  Did they preform service at the recommended intervals?  Did they do repairs with cheap parts?  etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T11:23:15.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1137" CreationDate="2011-06-14T11:36:11.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't read it just like the check engine light.  There is a different procedure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website does a great job outlining the procedure and has a translation for the codes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=636707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=636707&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like you should try to follow there instructions to reset the SRS.  If that doesn't work follow the instructions and images to read the main and sub codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T11:36:11.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2011-06-14T12:29:45.733" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really isn't an indicator for belts, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boyfriend of the previous owner says the dealer changed it, bring the car to that dealer, if possible, and have them look up a service record.  If you're far away from the dealer, call in and have your VIN handy.  I'd say this is your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T12:29:45.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="234" CreationDate="2011-06-14T15:15:56.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before doing anything else, get some &lt;strong&gt;penetrating oil&lt;/strong&gt;. Reducing friction in the threads will dramatically reduce the amount of twisting force required to remove the stuck plug, making the job way easier &amp;amp; reducing the chance of making things worse (i.e. breaking off a screw extractor!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions on the container, or just spray around the threads, and let it sit. Tapping with a screwdriver or wrench will help it penetrate and break up oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T15:15:56.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1136" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:23:34.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasket sealant is always good, but not necessary. Sealants are different, so ask the guy at your local auto parts store for sealant for the valve cover gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty levels vary with this, however. For example, I have an older Nissan Hardbody truck with leaking valve cover gaskets. The new gaskets are cheap enough, but removing the valve covers requires removing the entire throttle body first (because it sits over the valve covers, making them impossible to remove).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give you local Mazda dealership a call to see what they charge to replace the valve cover gaskets. If they charge little, you'll know it's a simple process. If they quote you something like $650 (what I was quoted), you might want to live with a little leak. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:23:34.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:24:21.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As jzd mentioned for the 528i, I can confirm the same goes for the E46 3 Series as well for reference sake if someone comes across this like I did in search for 3 series information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:24:21.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="377" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:27:26.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My power-steering pump failed about 2 months after the noise you described. I'm in an E46 3 Series. The noise would be louder when turning at a slower speed than it would at a higher speed. Dealer labour and part came to $1600 CAD, warranty saved me there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:27:26.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="234" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:36:49.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tried taking the spark plug out of a hot/warm engine and the plug broke off between the &lt;code&gt;lug-flats&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;lug-threads&lt;/code&gt; (both non-technical terms), you may be able to use a screw driver or chisel to gently &lt;strong&gt;tap&lt;/strong&gt; the remaining portion out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's why:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When your engine is hot, the spark plug holes are compressed due to the expansion in the metal making a much tighter seal. When the engine is cooled, the engine head metal contracts to its natural position, so the plug threads will not be stuck in the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All of the tension holding a plug into the head of your engine is held by the lip of metal around the &lt;code&gt;lug-flats&lt;/code&gt; when it is compressed by tightening the plug into the head. If the plug snapped between the &lt;code&gt;lug-flats&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;lug-threads&lt;/code&gt;, there is no longer a lip holding compression on the spark plug. In other words, &lt;em&gt;it is just sitting in there with little to no resistance keeping it from turning out.&lt;/em&gt; A screwdriver or chisel tip can be pressed against one of the jagged edges and used to turn the remaining spark plug back out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a careful look at this special situation before you go the extractor route. An extractor in inexperienced hands can ruin a head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I don't have pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:36:49.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2011-06-14T18:56:21.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BMW power steering reservoir usually say &quot;ATF Only&quot; on the caps as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzMNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzMNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/ps_gasket_04.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bokchoys.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-02-17T00:06:32.240" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T00:06:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1133" CreationDate="2011-06-14T21:07:01.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the idle isn't quite configured correctly. I had something vaguely similar on one of my Subarus - needed an ECU tweak. It was a fluctuating power loss during the first 2 minutes in the morning, if I was between 2000 and 2800 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get your garage to check ECU and maybe slightly raise the idle. That worked for me (although ymmv, obviously)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T21:07:01.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3105" CreationDate="2011-06-15T01:14:07.120" Score="1" ViewCount="1957" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I want to change the oil in my 2002 Kia Sedona but I have several cars and I'm never quite sure what kind of oil to use in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm really looking for is a link to a site that I can go to in general when changing my oil or a friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have asked this question before and the answers are always read the owners manual.  Unfortunately I don't have one so this isn't an option for me this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="688" LastEditorUserId="688" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T02:15:15.090" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T14:41:14.913" Title="Where can I look to find what kind of oil I should use for my car" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2011-06-15T01:57:55.240" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every manufacturer recommends their own fluids.  Everybody wins because your engine gets &quot;less corrosion&quot; and they great great markup on those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while ago I did cooling system maintenance (replace hoses, water pump, thermostat, temp sensor, radiator cap) on my wife's BMW 330i.  That make/model has a lot of following and several high-quality forums with lots of people and lots of opinions.  Half the people on those forums are under the impression that if the fluid doesn't have BMW written on the can, it can't touch the car.  The other half (equally knowledgeable and competent people) is using Prestone.  I have not read any post that suggested Prestone caused any kind of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I've been using in all my cars, including the BMW, and I never had any cooling system problems either.  I sold my Integra with 194k and engine was still fine.  Rust ate away a lot of the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T01:57:55.240" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-15T08:19:00.230" Score="4" ViewCount="2182" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new (2009-current) BMW 335d sells in the U.S. with a DPF to reduce emissions, but which prevents the use of biodiesel.  I've read about people removing the DPF and re-mapping their ECU to get better performance out of the engine.  I'm wondering if doing this would allow the use of biodiesel without mechanical problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; asking about the implications on factory warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; asking why using biodiesel is a bad idea (or a good one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T15:17:25.277" Title="Is it possible to use biodiesel in a BMW 335d if I remove the DPF and remap the ECU?" Tags="|fuel-system|bmw|exhaust|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2011-06-15T08:33:45.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything S_Niles says is correct, but you can save yourself some hassle by checking the resistance before you remove the glowplug(s) from the engine, by touching one end of your ohm meter to the end of the glowplug (after removing the wire/harness from the glowplug), and the other to your engine block.  Do this to all of your glowplugs.  The glowplug(s) that show greater resistance are suspect.  Typically, 3 will read (nearly) identical resistance, and the 4th will show much greater resistance (on a 4-cyl engine, of course), assuming one of the plugs is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this method is far less precise than that described by S_Niles--you could well get higher resistance readings this way.  But they key is to look for one plug that has &lt;em&gt;higher&lt;/em&gt; resistance than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the method I have used on my 4-cyl TDI engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always replaced all 4 plugs at once, as (at least for my engine), the parts are inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T13:47:09.050" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T13:47:09.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-06-15T10:21:07.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, &quot;mag&quot; wheels and spark plugs are two of the places I've always religiously used a torque wrench.  Mostly this has been on older engines, manufactured in the '80s, but my experience has been that the spark plugs have crush washers on them.  If you don't get up to the right torque, those washers won't form a good seal (which may explain why Dude318is sees the torque on the plug).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as jzd says, anything with a torque value specified should get torqued to that value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm so religious about spark plugs is that they need to be tight enough to get a good seal with the washer, but not so tight that you mangle the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my RX-7 in particular, I could definitely feel the washer crushing, where it would get harder to torque up to a point, then the washer would &quot;give&quot; and it would get easier for about an eighth of a revolution and then I'd reach the specified torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T10:21:07.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-15T10:43:59.453" Score="4" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in need of new struts, and see that there are many suspension kits available, ranging from around US$100-$200 to close to $2000 for performance/sport suspension packages.  What are the advantages of more expensive suspension systems, and what features should I be aware of, and what factors should I consider when choosing what to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T05:37:38.473" Title="What factors should I consider when selecting a suspension kit?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1154" CreationDate="2011-06-15T12:27:56.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like others have already told you, you really just need to locate an owners manual for the car.  Should be able to get one from the dealer for a minimal cost.  Or, see if there's a Haynes or Chiltons manual available, they have that information too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T12:27:56.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1141" CreationDate="2011-06-15T18:16:43.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painting tends to use a lot of air (CFM) at low pressure (&amp;lt;50psi, typically).  So do sanders.  Air sanders are great if you are planning on doing bodywork of any kind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Review your air tool requirements as @ManiacZX recommends.  Painting is an enjoyable activity with challenges; getting paint that matches exactly is almost impossible.  You will need an oil/water separator for tools like paint sprayers and sanders that run much longer than most tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="695" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T18:16:43.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1178" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:27:52.767" Score="5" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Saturn sw2 with a recent problem. Two times now it has stalled while idling and when it doesn't stall it floats near 500 rpms (Usually 750 - 950). The first time, it would start and just drop down to nothing, the next was coming to a stop. These times have been remedied by using the gas pedal to regulate the rpms and keep them in the normal range. It may be worth noting that the first time it happened was after filling up from near empty (emptier than I usually let it) and there was a bad storm the night before. Is it a sensor, some blockage or did I get bad gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="194" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T17:26:26.570" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:13:17.613" Title="Intermittent stall at idle" Tags="|electrical|starting|fuel-system|saturn|sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1133" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:46:49.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly a failing fuel pump or pressure regulator.  Have the fuel pressure checked in addition to @Rory suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="695" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T19:46:49.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1167" CreationDate="2011-06-15T20:15:31.940" Score="11" ViewCount="60288" Body="&lt;p&gt;After working on my car, I didn't bother to reattached the line from the pcv valve into the air intake before testing the motor. It ran normally. This made me question whether I need to even return it into the air intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, can I run the hose from the pcv valve into a can or some filtered holder to collect oil, filter fumes or anything else coming out of the case? I would then cap the opening on the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If doing the above is safe, would it actually help my engine run better? My logic as to why it might help, is it removes any oil that may otherwise go through the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="406" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T23:11:59.703" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T17:29:52.147" Title="Is the vent from the pcv valve back into the air intake really needed?" Tags="|oil|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2011-06-15T21:34:25.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PCV system reduces pollution by collecting &quot;blow-by&quot; (unburned gasoline and oil vapor) that would otherwise be vented into the air we breathe. The PCV system routes blow-by back to the intake system so it can be burned properly. PCV is designed to handle these by-products correctly; it is not harmful to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing a closed container on the end of the PCV hose will not work. The engine constantly generates blow-by as it runs. Closing off the end of the PCV hose will raise the pressure inside the engine until the PCV hose (or one of its connections) bursts, your collecting container ruptures, the engine oil dipstick pops out, or one of your oil seals leaks or blows out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, leaving the open hole on the intake side will throw your fuel/air mixture off slightly if the hole is downstream of the air mass meter. At a minimum, you're letting unfiltered, dirty air into the engine, which will cause it to wear out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T21:34:25.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-15T21:53:26.030" Score="18" ViewCount="21963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a second hand car, and I have the feeling that the clutch is worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do a quick clutch sanity check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="703" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T08:23:21.443" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T12:28:28.787" Title="How to test a clutch" Tags="|clutch|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:47:59.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: what you're suggesting is illegal if you live in a state where it's illegal to remove an emissions device.  At a minimum, you're making your car non-street legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, you're creating pollution for no good reason.  There's a zero percent chance that your catch can will be more effective than a modern catalytic converter, especially when considered over the life of the vehicle.  For example, how are you going to dispose of the contents of the can?  That's a problem that a PCV-equipped car does not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe?  Probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run better?  No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More pollution? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legal?  Quite likely no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:47:59.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2030" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:53:37.020" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of stock summer tires from a Toyota Yaris will they fit the stock rims of a 2004 chevy cavalier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="704" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T17:23:15.990" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T09:03:47.710" Title="Will stock tires from a toyota yaris fit a 2004 cavalier" Tags="|tires|toyota|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1166" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:00:23.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the vehicle stopped, and in a safe place, start out in 4th gear, and slowly release the clutch while giving the engine gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clutch is in good condition, the car should stall - if there's any slipping, you'll probably feel it, and should disengage the clutch right away to prevent further damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car happens to start going without stalling, then chances are that the clutch is good as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T23:00:23.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-16T07:04:50.570" Score="3" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 chevy blazer 4dr. the A/C system in my truck is brand new, every last part of it. before i got hit, my a/c blew soo cold it was like being in a freezer room. when i got hit, it formed a small dent in the condenser in the lower passenger side, and now there are just a few very small holes in the condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my thoughts are to use JB weld on the front and back of the holes then buy the recharge kit with the dye in it and get the UV light and see if the JB weld sealed the holes and my A/C system holds a charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i was just wondering if anyone has done something like this and has any input/hints/tips to give me or to tell me that its just not worth my time because it wont work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i also aready have a replacement condenser but i am hopeing that the jb weld will work and i can return the condenser because lately i have been too busy with other things and a bit lazy when i do have free time to just replace the condenser...lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for you time and i hope that the responces that i get tell me that the JB weld will work and i can return the other one i got for the &quot;just in case&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="706" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:47:39.577" Title="small hole in A/C condenser for 98 blazer" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1170" CreationDate="2011-06-16T11:47:39.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The internal holes in the condenser are very small and damage to part of it will impede optimal flow.  Now it sounds like the damage might not be that widespread and your AC system strong enough to handle a weakened leak.  However, in your situation, I would just replace the condenser and not have to spend the time worrying about leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; suggest getting the system evacuated and charged by someone who has the tools because just adding refrigerant with the moisture and air that is now in your system is not good for your compressor or the rest of your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:47:39.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1166" CreationDate="2011-06-16T12:29:41.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, get to highway speed in your highest gear and floor it.  If the RPMs shoot up, you've got slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T12:29:41.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1133" CreationDate="2011-06-16T12:39:09.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with Honda ignition systems, but could even be a cracked coil or power transistor case that's allowing moisture in.  Acts up until the moisture is cooked out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T12:39:09.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1175" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:27:16.587" Score="4" ViewCount="2043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic 2005 Value Package. The tires are worn out. I have moved to a location where there is heavy snow in winter. Are All-Weather Tires helpful or should I buy winter tires in winter and summer tires in summer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it okay if I buy two winter tires (back) and two summer tires(front)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first car and I do not have good experience in selecting tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="312" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T13:42:25.563" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T12:45:45.660" Title="All weather tires vs winter tires" Tags="|honda|tires|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:30:33.243" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter tires in Winter and Summer tires in Summer.  With &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rare exception the &quot;All-Season&quot; tires are really only very good for 3-Seasons, or for places where the roads are always kept clear in the Winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all 4.  Having a mix of Winter/Summer tires will adversely affect handling and braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:30:33.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:48:30.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter tires on the rear and summer tires on the front will create a dangerous situation.  Your front tires are responsible for steering and the majority of your braking power, additionally on your vehicle the front wheels are the drive wheels.  Flipping that around (summer tires on the rear) would leave the rear end likely to slide out on you in a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it separate sets of summer and winter tires are the best option.  If that's out of your price range you would be better off getting 4 all season tires than trying to make it through the winter with summer tires or with only one pair of winter tires and one pair of summer tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="708" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T15:48:30.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2011-06-16T17:26:02.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long shot, but do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, might be a faulty alternator. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's a chance you may have developed a vacuum leak, are you handy? You can do this yourself with a bottle of brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Spray around the engine bay (not coolant hoses, but vacuum specifically) and if you hit a spot where the revs go up, well, you've found you're vacuum leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T17:26:02.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2011-06-16T18:31:54.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I caved (mainly since it is dangerous to keep driving it like it is) and brought it to my local mechanic. He says it is the Idle Air Intake control. I am not going to accept this answer until I can do a test drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Well my mechanic was right on the nose. The replacement worked like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastEditorUserId="91" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:13:17.613" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:13:17.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1204" CreationDate="2011-06-16T20:19:49.300" Score="3" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the stereo in my car and thus have a spare 2003 Civic stereo. My friend's 2000 Civic stereo is starting to have major problems. Does anyone know if it would be possible to put the spare stereo into the 2000 Civic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I did look at Crutchfield's website, and the radios from one model did not always occur on the other model. This doesn't seem definitive to me, but seems to imply an incompatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="709" LastEditorUserId="709" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T13:26:05.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T15:10:58.803" Title="Install 2003 Honda Civic stereo in 2000 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1181" CreationDate="2011-06-17T01:01:18.947" Score="7" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need two new tires on my 1994 Toyota Camry, and I live in Minnesota. I have heard that choosing the right all-season tires can make a big difference for safety in rainy/snowy conditions.  Suppose I go to Discount Tire, Midas, or Tires Plus--how can I know which tire is right to choose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit of searching, and everything I see tells me how to interpret sidewall codes. That's easy and not the question. How do I know which tire to choose--which has the best safety for the buck--out of the four or five models they have to choose from? If I look up reviews, the shop never has the exact tire model reviewed. Last time, I just took the salesperson's recommendation and felt like a chump. How do I do better this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="711" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T08:48:06.223" Title="How can I choose the safest affordable tire available?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2011-06-17T01:58:05.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sales person is good then their recommendation should be fine.   Ideally you should find someone you trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time a store can order certain models if they carry that brand, so if you find a tire online call ahead to the store and see when they could get the tires in.  (Normally it is fairly fast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidewall codes are a great way to compare brands, but some shops have their own rating system that is more detailed and can be helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T01:58:05.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1183" CreationDate="2011-06-17T05:36:08.950" Score="2" ViewCount="31719" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I get Check Engine Light codes (OBD-I) from a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and where can I look them up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:02:24.503" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T19:08:21.743" Title="Check Engine Light on '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|obd-i|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1182" CreationDate="2011-06-17T12:25:25.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This blog is a nice reference:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It explains how to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle&#xA;  the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Count the number of time the MIL&#xA;  (check engine lamp)on the instrument&#xA;  panel flashes on and off. The number&#xA;  of flashes represents the trouble&#xA;  code. There is a short pause between&#xA;  the flashes representing the 1st and&#xA;  2nd digits of the code. Longer pauses&#xA;  are used to separateindividual 2-digit&#xA;  trouble code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An example of a flashed DTC is as&#xA;  follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 6 more times. This denotes a&#xA;  DTC number 46.&#xA;  -Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, then flashes 5 more times. This indicates a&#xA;  DTC number 55. DTC 55 will always be&#xA;  the last code to be displayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And has a list of codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;88 display used for start or test&#xA;11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking&#xA;12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts&#xA;13 map sensor not detecting any change during test&#xA;14 map voltage too high or too low&#xA;15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected&#xA;16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected&#xA;17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault&#xA;21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected&#xA;22 coolant sensor voltage low&#xA;23 air charge voltage high/low detected&#xA;24 throttle positioner sensor voltage high/low&#xA;25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected&#xA;26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached&#xA;27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal&#xA;31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected&#xA;32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected&#xA;33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected&#xA;34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected&#xA;35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected&#xA;36 wastegate solenoid, open or short detected37 part throttle unlock(PTU) circuit, open or short detected&#xA;41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal&#xA;42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller&#xA;43 ignition control circuit not responding&#xA;44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem&#xA;45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects overboost&#xA;46 battery voltage too high&#xA;47 battery voltage too low&#xA;51 air/fuel at limit&#xA;52 logic module fault&#xA;53 internal controller failure&#xA;54 camshaft reference circuit not detected&#xA;55 end of message&#xA;61 baro read solenoid, open or short detected&#xA;62 emr mileage not stored&#xA;63 eeprom write denied&#xA;64 flex fuel sensor signal out of range&#xA;65 manifold tuning valve, open or short detected&#xA;66 no ccd messages&#xA;76 ballast bypass relay, open or short detected&#xA;77 speed control relay, open or short detected &lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the code you probably could search online if this list is not complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T12:25:25.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2011-06-17T23:46:41.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spoke at length about the benefit of winter specific tires here in Minnesota to my friends far more than they cared to hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Every single person&lt;/em&gt; who has driven one of my vehicles in the winter has come to me afterwards and said quite literally, &quot;I was clueless; I had no idea it makes so much difference.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really does make huge difference, and you are &lt;strong&gt;substantially&lt;/strong&gt; safer in the winter on winter tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not mix and match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T23:46:41.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2011-06-17T23:51:22.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard that choosing the right&#xA;  all-season tires can make a big&#xA;  difference for safety in rainy/snowy&#xA;  conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can at all afford it, I would &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; recommend a separate set of winter tires here in Minnesota.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you have driven a car with winter tires in a good snow, you cannot possibly imagine the difference it makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the shop never has the exact tire&#xA;  model reviewed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy them online.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://tirerack.com&quot;&gt;Tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt; has never been more expensive than buying locally, although it is a bit more work involved transporting the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take notes on which models &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; available at the shop, and then go home and research reviews for those tires to choose between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T23:51:22.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1187" CreationDate="2011-06-18T02:09:40.707" Score="2" ViewCount="28918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an older Nissan truck (1994) that did NOT come with a factory radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous owner had an aftermarket style radio installed, and the installers used one of these universal radio installation kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took ownership, the last owner kept his radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a factory radio out of a newer Nissan truck. It still fits into the opening, but it has a different connector than either the universal radio kit or the older Nissan stock style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has a color code chart that tells what color wires go where, I could really use this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need one of each to do this myself, otherwise I have to go have it installed professionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm looking for a color code chart for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A Universal Radio Connector Wiring Kit, and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A newer Nissan Radio Connector Wiring schematic&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, my newer Nissan Radio comes out of a 2003 XTerra (non-Bose speaker version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the wiring connector in my truck now uses browns and greens mostly for colors. The original owner did not keep his stereo after he removed it (sold it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've updated with the best picture I could get with my camera. It doesn't do well up close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OTeh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wiring Connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2011-06-18T02:39:49.567" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T08:33:19.583" Title="Radio Wiring diagrams and/or color codes?" Tags="|electrical|nissan|audio|wiring|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2011-06-18T02:27:36.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should help ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure where you can find a universal wiring kit though. The aftermarket headunit should have a small diagram on it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T02:27:36.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2011-06-18T14:37:31.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dude, I'll mark yours as the answer, but I found an AWESOME wiring schematic that got my truck's stereo installed last night:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jdmlegion.com/Assets/Nissan_Radio_Wiring.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Install Doctor's Nissan Radio Wire Harnesses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T14:37:31.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-18T14:48:10.953" Score="3" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove a Mitsubishi Galant 2000 V6 engine? I have the wires and everything disconnected, but I am not sure if I am supposed to take the transmission off, or just pull it out transmission and all. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T19:06:19.953" Title="Removing Mitsubishi Galant 2000 V6 Engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2011-06-18T20:44:06.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your civic is front wheel drive, which means your front wheels do both steering, braking and pulling the car forward. If you have to prioritize between the wheels. These should always have the best tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this means you might get a dangerous &quot;feel&quot; of good grip when pressing the throttle and braking. This may make you over confident in situations like approaching a sharp turn, which makes your car spin out with the rear first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If safety is more important than your economy, then you get one set of summer and one set of winter! Remember, even if you have to buy two sets of tires, one set of allyear tires will wear out twice as fast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T20:44:06.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1200" CreationDate="2011-06-19T00:22:34.060" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some guides online for hard-wiring a radar detector into the electrical system of the car via the moon-roof line or similar.  But what about concealing the detector itself.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to disassemble the detector, carefully de-solder the components, lengthen connectors and expose the minimal sensor components in the windshield, and hide the bulk of the unit in the roof or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone done this?  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T03:17:43.340" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:03:17.410" Title="Concealing a radar detector" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2011-06-21T07:29:49.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1744" CreationDate="2011-06-19T02:05:12.060" Score="13" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/car-minder-plus-car-maintenance/id310809791?mt=8&quot;&gt;Car Minder&lt;/a&gt; for the iPhone - it's only $2.99 but limited functionality - and Excel spreadsheets.  Ideally I'm looking for something that will track all service for up to 5 vehicles.  MPG tracking and ability to export data into a common format (Excel, comma delimited, etc.) would be nice.  I would also like to be able to generate a variety of reports to see how much I am spending per vehicle, perhaps showing &quot;regular maintenance&quot; different from &quot;add ons&quot; - i.e. an ARB bumper is a large cost for my truck and I want to record the expense, but it's certainly not a maintenance item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few I found from a quick google search - just curious if anyone has used these or others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ezm-web.com/&quot;&gt;EZ Maintenance&lt;/a&gt; - $40/month&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcaresoftware.com/&quot;&gt;CarCare Automotive&lt;/a&gt; - $40&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtcpro.com/price.htm&quot;&gt;Innovative Management Systems Auto Maintenance Pro&lt;/a&gt; - $35&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kzsoftware.com/products/vehicle_maintenance/&quot;&gt;KZ Software Vehicle Manager&lt;/a&gt; - $35&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lonewolf-software.com/Automotive%20Wolf%20Purchase.htm&quot;&gt;Automotive Wolf&lt;/a&gt; - $20-30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="849" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T05:02:03.877" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T12:26:43.287" Title="Any recommendations on vehicle maintenance software for the DIYer?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1174" CreationDate="2011-06-19T02:07:47.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are All-Weather Tires helpful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very - I use all-season tires myself.  That's primarily a budget constraint combined with the fact that Rhode Island gets serious snow rarely.  All-wheel drive + all-season tires + careful driving = acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or should I buy winter tires in winter&#xA;  and summer tires in summer?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your specific situation.  My previous car (97 Integra) was a similar platform to what you're using now.  I was fairly happy in that car using all-weather tires on all four wheels &lt;strong&gt;until&lt;/strong&gt; I got stuck in a parking lot (high-centered on a tiny lump of snow) next to my brother in law with his all-wheel drive WRX.  I chose to ditch the car rather than upgrade the tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Admittedly not the most economically-motivated choice ever but I've been satisfied in the long run....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are driving in deep snow on a regular basis (i.e., Wisconsin vs. Rhode Island), I would recommend that you invest in good winter tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it okay if I buy two winter tires&#xA;  (back) and two summer tires(front)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  Absolutely not.  Please don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, your front wheels in the Civic are responsible for all acceleration, most of the braking and all of the steering.  If you put summer tires on the fronts and drive in the snow, it's like buttering your feet before you try to walk across a frozen lake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture a clover-leaf exit ramp on your way home from work in the winter: you turn off into a fixed radius turn and hit a patch of ice from the snow melt earlier in the day.  Your steering will immediately go away (summer tires can't handle ice or snow at all).  Worse, your braking will be terrible in the front, so there's no chance of transferring weight to the front to get you around the turn.  Absolute best case: you'll understeer into the outside guard rail, hopefully without serious injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T22:32:44.807" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T22:32:44.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1197" CreationDate="2011-06-19T05:50:34.010" Score="4" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really on-topic for &quot;motor vehicle repair&quot;, but I figure it's kinda close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months ago, I bought a 1983 Honda Nighthawk 550, which has a straight-four engine. A friend of mine was looking at motorcycles also, but ended up buying a gently used 1800cc V-twin. I went to the dealership with him and asked what size he should look for to compare to mine, and the guy said mine would compare to a 1100 V-twin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious because he was a commissioned salesperson and may have been trying to upsell my friend, or he could have been right. My dad also rides and has a Kawasaki KZ900, and sitting on it, it feels a LOT bigger than mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T00:01:56.520" Title="Comparing v-twin with straight-four engines" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-06-19T05:56:14.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that as long as you know the gear you're switching into will provide you the torque you need to continue accelerating, you should be fine. In fact, it makes sense to me that you'd actually cause more wear by letting out the clutch, catching the gears, and then pulling it back in. You'd also cause less smooth acceleration due to very slight engine braking (or I just suck at manual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a computer programmer, not a mechanic (ergo, you should not take any advice from me and probably do the exact opposite!), but on my bike I usually start out in first, shift to third around 20mph depending on how fast I need to accelerate (traffic around here is full of &quot;those&quot; people), and then fifth or sixth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="233" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T15:40:59.287" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T15:40:59.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1199" CreationDate="2011-06-19T14:42:27.073" Score="3" ViewCount="10216" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've pulled the codes from my car based on the helpful information provided here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1182/78&quot;&gt;Check Engine Light on &amp;#39;94 Jeep Grand Cherokee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I need just a little help understanding what the codes actually mean.  The translations below are taken directly from the other thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What particular &quot;memory&quot; is this referring to, and how would it have been cleared?  I imagine loss of battery power would be one cause.  Is this also the same as the engine code memory?  Does that memory get cleared each time it's read?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume this is pretty straight-forward:  Check/replace O&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; sensors.  Although it could sort of be construed to mean that the air/fuel mix is dead-on, I'm sure that's not very likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;55 end of message&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing I should see this every time I pull codes?  Sort of like this message from the MCP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RNlP.png&quot; alt=&quot;END OF LINE&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  This is for a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4WD, 4.0L in-line 6 cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T17:36:55.953" Title="CEL 12, 21, and 55 on '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee" Tags="|jeep|cel|grand-cherokee|obd-i|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1194" CreationDate="2011-06-20T00:01:56.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, twins will generate less power than an inline 4 with the same engine capacity. This is especially true for cruiser type engines (as opposed to a short-stroke twin like in a ducati). Simply put, twins tend to have a long stroke which gives them strong low-down torque but make it harder for them to rev (power = torque x rpm). Further to this, cruisers weight a lot - I was vaguely interested in a HD XR1200 until I read that the thing weights 250kg, that's a good 50~80kg heavier than a standard litre bike, let alone a sports bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not going to be a direct comparison. A 600 sports bike will outrun and out manourver a 1800cc cruiser but the guy on the cruiser wont care - that's not why he bought his bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to own a Kawasaki ZR750 - equivalent to a Honda Nighthawk 750. Even when it ran on three cylinders, it was a great bike. A 550 should have enough power to have fun - I really used to enjoy riding my wife's 250 since you actually had to plan your gear changes to keep the revs up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T00:01:56.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1180" CreationDate="2011-06-20T08:48:06.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go for the simplest, oldest method - personal recommendation. Something that is so much easier now we have the internet. Simply find other people with similar cars to yours, who live in similar climates, and find out what they have used and either liked or didn't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I find that tyre choice can vary significantly according to vehicle type and driving style, so you'll rarely find two people who agree! For example I know a couple of people who swaer by Pirelli P6000, and others who hate them - in that case it seems to be a tyre that works best with heavier cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never buy &quot;budget&quot; tyres, it's not worth the risk. I always go for either an upper-mid-range or premium tyre, quite often the latter is cheaper! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with the answer above suggesting seperate winter tyres - in many parts of Europe this is a legal requirement and seems remarkably sensible if you're in a snowy area. Most cars here run on &quot;summer&quot; tyres all year, and people wonder why they struggle when it snows... (rarely enough that for most people it's not worth the extra cost of winter tyres - I simply left my car at home for the few days it was bad last winter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T08:48:06.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1196" CreationDate="2011-06-20T15:30:57.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1l50u-does-dtc-12-memory-controller-cleared-within.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1l50u-does-dtc-12-memory-controller-cleared-within.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which seems to confirm that 12 just means the battery was disconnected and that you should always see 55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 should not come up unless there is a problem, because the sensor should be able to detect rich or lean.  So check/replace O2 is the correct course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T15:30:57.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2011-06-20T21:03:17.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no electronics engineer, but a radar detector is a radio receiver.  It will have tuned circuits, and it is entirely possible that changing the length of a connecter to an antennae may affect the operation of the circuit.  It is also entirely possible that it will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would/could be one of the main issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for laser detection, sensor placement is very important - but you do say you already intend to place the sensors in the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:03:17.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1277" CreationDate="2011-06-20T23:16:35.553" Score="3" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2008 Yamaha Scorpio 225, and the chain is looking a bit loose. I've had a good look around, and I really can't find a way to tighten it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea where to look? Is there a common system in use on motorbikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:11:47.663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:11:47.663" Title="How can I add tension to a motorcycle chain?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1201" CreationDate="2011-06-21T02:27:59.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, usually one would go about looking in the service manual... which if you plan on doing your own maintenance is essential and well worth the money.  Typically on a motorcycle there are adjustment screws on the back of the swing arm that you screw one way to tighten and the other way to loosen.  You need to loosen a bunch of stuff first (axle, adjuster screw lock nuts, torque link - if applicable), then screw adjustment screws, then check the wheel alignment, then tighten everything back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="718" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T02:27:59.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1189" CreationDate="2011-06-21T07:33:37.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have the option of either unbolting the transmission or removing the axles and then pulling the motor/tranny in one piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit]  I forgot.. this is also assuming you've unbolted the engine mounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T17:21:41.423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T17:21:41.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1179" CreationDate="2011-06-21T15:10:58.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many recent cars and stereos use a standard ISO wiring connector. If the 2003 stereo has done so, you should be able to fit it into the earlier car quite easily. If it is a custom Honda connector then it depends on whether they have changed the design between the cars - I wouldn't have thought they would do however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the radios &quot;did not always occur on the other model&quot;, which implies to me that some of the radios were common across both years. If this is the case, then I would expect the connectors to be the same, as they must be the same across all stereos in a given model range unless adapters are used...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I can think that they would be incompatible is if the newer stereo has additional features that require extra connections that the old one didn't. I can't imagine big car manufacturers spend money re-designing bits that hardly anyone will ever see unless they have to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T15:10:58.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1207" CreationDate="2011-06-21T23:13:21.997" Score="6" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having problems with my clutch in my manual Skoda Felicia (1997) car. After (usually) some long drives the clutch fails to disengage (forever from that point on) and must be replaced. I had replaced the clutch for 5 times already in interval of about 1-3 months between each replacement.&#xA;I'm no mechanic and the workshop tells me that it can only be the clutch, however, purely from statistical considerations this claim seems a little suspicious. After all, the first clutch lasted for around 10 years.&#xA;Question is, whether the &quot;purely clutch&quot; explanation is viable or is there another problem at work here? If so, what would you suggest I can do to diagnose the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T08:41:03.707" Title="Repetitive manual clutch failure" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1208" CreationDate="2011-06-22T04:13:29.117" Score="5" ViewCount="29556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Civic DX. I drove my car for about 10 minutes, with the air conditioning on the highest/coolest level. I then parked my car in direct sunlight for another 10 minutes, and kept the air conditioning on. After about 10 minutes, the front of my car started steaming and coolant started leaking out. I live in California and the temperature was about 85 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a little surprised that it overheated so quickly. Does it sound like there's a possible problem with my car, or is this expected behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="506" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T19:15:26.563" Title="Honda Civic easily overheats with air conditioning on high?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1205" CreationDate="2011-06-22T08:41:03.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid it sounds like you are being taken for a ride there :( Clutches should last tens of thousands of miles, so if they are failing within a couple of months then there must be an external influence (or you're driving like Colin McRae...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a clutch failing to disengage is more often a failure in the clutch release mechanism than the clutch itself. I don't know if the Felicia has a cable or hydraulic clutch, but my first thought on hearing your symptoms was that it is a cable that has stretched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other common causes of clutch failure include oil leaks and failed clutch release bearings, however the former would cause the clutch to slip rather than lock on, and the latter ought to be replaced when replacing the clutch. If the release bearing or release arm had failed I would expect it to not work at all until said parts were replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that there is another factor involved such as a bent input shaft, but I would think that fairly unlikely - my first suspect would be the cable or hydraulics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find yourself a decent, reliable back-street garage and get them to take a proper look, because I wouldn't trust any workshop that tries to blame a newly fitted part 5 times!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T08:41:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1206" CreationDate="2011-06-22T10:55:56.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is a problem with your cooling system.  A car should now overheat in 85 degrees while parked.   You will have to inspect your cooling system.  Some things to check in order of most likely culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your cooling fan.  (Easy to check this one, once the car gets hot do you see the fan(s) on the back of the radiator turn on.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your fluid low or do you have a leak in your system.  (Check it everyday and make sure you are not losing fluid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your coolant mixed correctly.  (Make sure you aren't filling up the system with just water or just antifreeze.  Buy pre-mixed or mix it yourself to the right proportions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your thermostat.  (This is normally a very cheap replacement and most likely need to be replaced).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your radiator cap (Make sure it holds pressure, if in doubt they are cheap to replace).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the Water Pump, Radiator, Hoses (The hose that brings coolant from the engine to the radiator should be hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T10:55:56.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1206" CreationDate="2011-06-22T13:13:27.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car only overheats at idle the most likely cause is the cooling fan is not working. Crank up the car and let it get to operating temperature. The cooling fan should turn on somewhere between 185 - 200 degrees. Turning on the AC should make the fan (at least one of them if you have more than one) turn on immediately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the other things &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/489/jzd&quot;&gt;jzd&lt;/a&gt; mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1206/honda-civic-easily-overheats-with-air-conditioning-on-high/1208#1208&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt; are valid as well, but I would add to check to make sure nothing (leaves, grass, etc.) is blocking airflow through the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T13:13:27.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1233" CreationDate="2011-06-22T14:39:11.307" Score="104" ViewCount="273950" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the act of downshifting to slow your vehicle down have any negative side affects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't downshift more than one or two gears at a time and I let out on the clutch slow enough that I don't rev very high.  My red line is at 5.5 and mine are around 3 - 3.5 when I do it.  This process makes my brakes last much longer but I'd like to ensure it's not at the cost of something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks everyone for your answers, but I'm seeing very conflicting information.  I found this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; but then again it's wikipedia.  Does anyone have anything to support their thought one way or another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Engine braking passively reduces wear on brakes and helps a driver&#xA;  maintain control of the vehicle. Active use of engine braking&#xA;  (shifting into a lower gear) is advantageous when it is necessary to&#xA;  control speed while driving down very steep and long slopes. It should&#xA;  be applied before regular disk or drum brakes have been used, leaving&#xA;  the brakes available to make emergency stops. The desired speed is&#xA;  maintained by using engine braking to counteract the gravitational&#xA;  acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:17:00.130" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T10:26:03.697" Title="Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?" Tags="|transmission|jeep|shifting|manual-transmission|braking|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-22T14:53:27.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is yes.  You are running the engine through more revolutions that you would have done if you had used your brakes.  This is adding wear and tear to your engine. Not sure about the transmission.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now from a cost savings perspective the wear that you save on your brakes might actually be more than the small amount of wear that you add else where.  There might even be a fuel savings by having the vehicle momentum power the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One negative of doing this is that drivers following you have no visible warning that you are slowing down.  (Using your brakes will engage your brake lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T14:53:27.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-22T15:35:51.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are 100% putting wear and tear on your engine plus transmission. Not only that but you're also increasing the wear on your clutch. Having said that, I rev match every time I downshift. This still puts wear and tear on the components but not as much as physically slowing the car down when bringing it down a gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads are cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T15:35:51.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-22T18:13:19.810" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which would you rather change - your brake pads or your clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By downshifting to decelerate you are trading wear on your brake pads for wear on your clutch (among other things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads are &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. Personally, having done both, I'd rather do 50 brake jobs before I'd do one clutch job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="654" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T18:32:10.403" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T18:32:10.403" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1219" CreationDate="2011-06-22T22:39:58.763" Score="4" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car slowly drips oil from the drain plug and between the tranny and engine, at least, according to the mechanic. An unnecessary 1600$ repair. Do you think a belly pan would be helpful to at least keep the driveway clean. I mean so it would catch the drips. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="729" OwnerDisplayName="vilive" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T13:44:51.143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T08:59:42.390" Title="Oil on driveway: Will a Belly pan be helpful?" Tags="|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1214" CreationDate="2011-06-22T23:09:13.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, if you park the car in the same place all the time and pick it up when it rains. If you garage the car, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KeithS" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T23:09:13.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1214" CreationDate="2011-06-23T10:41:06.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A belly pan will just collect the drips - meaning you can't tell how much has leaked, and potentially spilling it elsewhere while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise getting it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh - and as @BMitch said - mechanics.SE would be ideal for this question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" OwnerDisplayName="Rory Alsop" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T10:41:06.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1214" CreationDate="2011-06-23T12:07:58.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help keep the driveway clean, but like @Rory said, you'll just drip it elsewhere on the road.  Also, collecting it under the car leaves me with a slight fire hazard concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T12:07:58.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-23T13:11:09.460" Score="2" ViewCount="6651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Civic LX. When the driver's door is open, it will not lock if you press the lock button on the remote or use the lock button on the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have noticed about the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you press the lock button on the remote or on the door while the door is open, the actual lock on the door goes down half way but not all the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you close the door with the lock in this half down position, you can open it again; it is not locked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you press the lock button on the remote while the door is closed, it does lock and the lock goes all of the way down properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any ideas on what i should look at or replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T17:07:59.833" Title="driver's door does not lock when open" Tags="|honda|locks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1214" CreationDate="2011-06-23T13:44:31.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oil leak from the drain plug can be fixed for a few cents - it will just need a new crush washer on the plug (somthing that ought to be replaced every time the oil is changed, but rarely is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is leaking from between the transmission and the engine you've got a bigger problem, and one I would get fixed regardless of the fact it makes a mess, as it'll ruin your clutch/torque converter. It will be either the oil seal on the back of the engine or the one on the front of the gearbox - you ought to be able to tell by the smell whether it is engine oil or transmission fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitting a pan to cacth the drips will only hide the problem - and run either engine or transmission without oil and you'll soon end up with a much more expensive problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T13:44:31.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2011-06-23T14:20:20.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it is the same in the states, but over here there are two totally incompatible types of coolant - OAT (usually red) and MEG (usually blue). Using the wrong sort can cause corrosion issues and leaks (especially using OAT in a car designed for MEG), and mixing the two results in a rather nasty sludge. However, most cars in the past decade or so have used OAT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't therefore see how they can sell a coolant that claims to be compatible with ALL cars, unless things have been different over there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to watch out for is that if your car is still under warranty, they may refuse to pay out if you have a leak and have used a non-approved fluid in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally tend to use whichever brand my local motor-factor has in stock at the time, but always make sure it is the right type - but then all of my cars have been fairly old, and from before manufacturers started trying to insist that you used their own brand coolant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T14:20:20.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1218" CreationDate="2011-06-23T17:40:52.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that this is with the key removed from the ignition?  Pretty much anything from 1990 on up will refuse to lock in a manner like that if a key is in the ignition.  So, it's probably either the ignition switch, or wiring to the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T17:40:52.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1218" CreationDate="2011-06-24T02:07:57.237" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife had a 2000 Civic that had exactly the same &quot;feature&quot;.  First time I borrowed her car, I thought I broke her door.  This is how it comes from the factory and by design.  The idea is either you lock the door with your keys while you are outside (keys not locked in) or you lock the door from the inside (keys not locked in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw, I think you can force it to lock if you pull on the door opening lever while at the same time moving the lock tab&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastEditorUserId="509" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T05:59:37.723" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T05:59:37.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-24T08:57:30.007" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you downshift into a gear at a RPM that is within the norm of driving then no, no harm done.  When you downshift what is slowing you down is actually the compression stroke and is recommended over hard braking. Like another said, it is a bit of a mix of the two but engine braking is ok as long as the engine stays under redline, so do not go from 5th to 3rd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="732" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T12:04:15.633" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T12:04:15.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-24T13:02:36.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with the previous posters but I'd like to add that in my audi's handbook they actually advise downshifting early to save fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also make plenty of money on parts though don't they! Also from my experience their gearboxes don't last long these days at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="734" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T13:02:36.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-25T00:07:35.993" Score="8" ViewCount="11017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently moved to California and am trying to get my car registered; they require a smog check (which is possibly actually more of an inspection than the name implies?). I went by a very basic shop today (oil change, smog check, etc.) and after a good while doing all the actual testing, he tried to check on things via the diagnostic system, and ultimately came and told me that their computer couldn't talk to my computer. His speculation was that maybe since my car was newer their computer didn't know about it yet, and suggested I try a dealer. I have a 2008 Fit, not exactly brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would really cause this? Should I be anticipating possible repair, and looking for a shop to trust, or just trying another basic inspection place (and trying to pick a more reputable one)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I procrastinated for a while, since I cycle to work, and finally went to a test-only shop. The same thing happened, and the guy told me that some newer Hondas have high speed computers, which require the shop to buy a newer computer system. Is there any truth to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T06:25:04.030" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T02:12:13.377" Title="shop can't connect to onboard diagnostic system?" Tags="|inspection|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1159" CreationDate="2011-06-25T05:37:38.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't even know what handling means or what different suspension setups do and you know for a fact that you need new shocks/struts, then just get direct replacements. The only advice I'd give is stay away from no-brands (especially if you go to places like Monroe Muffler Brake and ask for shocks) and go for something more well known but reasonably priced. KYB comes to mind. If your car happens to be Japanese or European, you may even want to consider direct OEM replacement (I might be biased here, but lately I have not been very happy with quality of parts US manufacturers put into their cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to know what factors play a role in suspension of a car, I suggest you pick up a book since real answer is probably going to be a lot longer than one or two paragraphs people would write here.  A while ago, I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0879384182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt; and thought it was great for a beginner.  Not too much math, everything is in plain english but still plenty of real content that you can take away from that book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T05:37:38.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-25T06:11:11.547" Score="2" ViewCount="3530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 BMW 525i, when accelerating car seems to sputter, but as you get up to speed and cruise its fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it might be the fuel injectors. Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="738" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:21:46.713" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:21:46.713" Title="Engine sputters when accelerating and idle" Tags="|fuel-system|troubleshooting|bmw|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-25T22:17:08.833" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Donovan's is the only answer that has any truth in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downshifting and engine braking will have NO effect on the clutch, as you don't slip the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it doesn't wear out the engine, as you use the compression stroke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and it is far better on tyres and handling as any advanced driving instructor would tell you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is just more difficult, as you need to coordinate a number of factors, so not suitable for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T22:17:08.833" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1672" CreationDate="2011-06-25T23:18:41.037" Score="1" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering where I could find the RAL color code for the paint color on a 1969 Saab 96 (V4). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="739" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:10:55.083" Title="Finding RAL color code for Sea Green (GN6L) paint on a 1969 Saab 96" Tags="|paint|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1226" CreationDate="2011-06-26T00:24:41.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been a while, but from what I remember there are some strange rules that have to be followed in order to import a car into California. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on when it was purchase and/or initially licenced, you may be OK - any car less that 4 years old should be OK to register in CA.  If it's older than that, you'll need to get a smog check by a state-licenced facility - only they have the appropriate connections with the DMV to give you a test.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of tests - one just sniffs the exhaust gas, the more rigorous test actually puts the car on a test rig and simulates driving.  Depending on where in the state you are, you may have to go through the 2nd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regardless, it sounds like you're wasting your time and money with the current shop.  You can look up registered smog stations here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bar.ca.gov/70_SiteWideInfo/02_Tools/02_FindaStation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bar.ca.gov/70_SiteWideInfo/02_Tools/02_FindaStation.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T00:24:41.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1241" CreationDate="2011-06-26T06:22:31.227" Score="9" ViewCount="25977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Windstar (more details on demand if necessary.)  I rarely use any vent setting besides &quot;face&quot;, and I try to avoid using AC because my gas mileage is already lousy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About two months ago, my vent / fan started blowing on the windshield instead of my face - I'd have to turn the fan all the way up to get a breeze I could even feel.  Once I'd been driving for a while, especially on the freeway, it would suddenly switch back to &quot;face&quot;, and I'd have to turn the fan back down.  Get to my destination, park, leave the car... come back and do it all over again.  Irritating, but I can live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, however, it was over 100, and I turned on the AC... and suddenly started hearing some ominous cracking noises from the windshield.  Wasn't feeling any air on my face, either... and I realized that the AC was blowing full cold on the inside of a hot windshield.  I turned it off in a hurry.  A little while later the vent finally switched itself to &quot;face&quot; (blowing hot air), and I figured it would be safe to start the AC again.  And it was - for about a minute, until it suddenly switched back to the windshield and I heard cracking noises again.  I turned it off in a hurry again, and proceeded for the rest of the day with the windows rolled down.  This is going to be a long summer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have any ideas what the problem might be?  Electrical / vacuum / hydraulic, etc.?  And is this a doable DIY fix, or...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T18:55:50.237" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T14:34:05.923" Title="My vents randomly switch between face / windshield... how do I fix this?" Tags="|ford|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2011-06-26T07:04:16.947" Score="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when you drive, you're putting a load (and causing wear) on what I'm going to call the &quot;forward&quot; face of each tooth on each gear in your drivetrain.  The front of a tooth on the crankshaft pushes against the back of a tooth on the next gear in line, which pushes the next gear, etc.  When you use &quot;engine braking&quot;, all you are doing is engaging the teeth in the opposite direction, and putting force and wear on the faces that normally are just along for the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, does that mean you're wearing your engine out faster?  Marginally... but the parts you're wearing out would normally have to be replaced (if at all) because they'd worn out from the other side; you're wearing surfaces that would usually be thrown out with hardly any wear at all.  To borrow a phrase from the medical field, your engine/transmission will die &lt;strong&gt;with&lt;/strong&gt; that wear, not &lt;strong&gt;of&lt;/strong&gt; it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the people who say that you're transferring the wear from your brakes to your clutch, all I can say is... you're doing it wrong!  If you downshift as quickly and smoothly as you upshift, then the added wear and tear on your clutch will be a statistical blip - seriously, how many times do you downshift for this reason, as opposed to normal shifting?  (If your answer is &quot;at every light&quot;, then the poster who advised you to calm down your driving habits had a point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there's a seriously &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; way to do this; I used to do it when I was first learning to drive stick, and it was incredibly stupid:  pushing the clutch all the way in and letting the RPMs fall to idle, then letting the clutch out and allowing the engine to slow the car down in the same gear.  If that's how you're doing it, &lt;strong&gt;STOP IT!&lt;/strong&gt;  That way wears out the clutch very fast (which might be what the other posters had in mind), drops your speed dramatically without lighting up your brakelights (I confess, that's why I started doing it - trying to sneak-slow past a cop), and runs a high risk of stalling the engine and seriously ^&amp;amp;*@ing something up.  Don't be that guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T07:04:16.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2011-06-26T07:25:43.130" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Antifreeze is a blend of several different ingredients: the antifreeze/coolant active ingredient, (mostly) water, corrosion inhibitors to prevent the water from rusting away the inside of your engine, and a secret blend of herbs and spices that's particular to each manufacturer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different choices for the active ingredient (ethylene glycol, methanol, propylene glycol); mixing them in your engine (by refilling with a different type) is probably a Bad Thing.  Putting PG in a system designed for EG might be a problem too, even if the system had been flushed (and there's no such thing as a perfect flush.)&#xA;However, the real fun starts when you mix (or mismatch) the corrosion inhibitors.  Just don't do it.&#xA;Wikipedia has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some decent information on the subject&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line:  You certainly don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to go to a Ford dealership to get the right stuff... but getting the right stuff is, in fact, very important, no matter where you get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and the secret herbs and spices?  Who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T12:28:03.060" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T12:28:03.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1226" CreationDate="2011-06-26T07:31:56.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get smogged in California, you generally &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.org/ca-california/smog-check.php#When_to_Smog_and_Where_to_Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;need to go to an &quot;inspection-only&quot; shop&lt;/a&gt;, that is, one that will only test your car but not fix it if it fails.  (If it fails, you go to a regular mechanic and fix it, then come back for a free retest.)  I believe the system was put in place to counter fraud; I don't really know how well that's working out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the &quot;inspection-only&quot; shops only do one thing, and they generally have up-to-date equipment... so take it to one of them.  A shop that can't read OBD codes from a 2008 Fit sounds a bit off to me.  The above link, from the DMV, has a locator for smog shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T07:31:56.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1237" CreationDate="2011-06-27T02:26:35.507" Score="6" ViewCount="115607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Audi A4. Recently there is a burning smell when driving that is noticeable when stopped after driving. At night I noticed a faint white smoke blowing out of the front in the headlights. I mentioned the smell when it was in the shop last time and they didn't find any leaks but I'm now concerned after seeing the white smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm taking it back into the shop in a few days but thought I would ask for opinions before going in blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other recent symptoms: A/C not cooling well anymore and slightly low coolant a month ago. Check engine lights back on. Was a low voltage warning last time due to a jump but not sure now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T14:00:05.757" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T11:30:23.230" Title="Burning smell and faint white smoke" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|audi|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2011-06-27T03:10:07.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds you have a small leak.  A fluid collects somewhere and then makes itself to the exhaust manifold or headers and because that's hot, it burns/evaporates causing the smoke you are seeing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it smell like burnt plastic?  If yes, then its probably engine oil.  I'm not sure if antifreeze would produce a distinct burnt smell as its mostly water/alcohol. Antifreeze should smell sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a valve cover gasket leak which had all the same symptoms as what you are describing (not talking about your &quot;other recent symptoms&quot;, those just sound like you have some other issue with the car).  Check for leaks up top.  If a mechanic jacked up the car and just looked underneath, they may not have noticed anything actually reaching the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, don't put all your trust in mechanics. They are just like us: they love to fix things when they know what's wrong (they can go to a price book and look up exactly what to charge you), but if you give them something to &quot;investigate&quot; it is in their best interests to finish with your car as soon as possible.  They make money on fast turn around, not spending a ton of time looking for a little leak (that's what yours sounds like) from some obscure spot inside your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T03:10:07.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T09:36:07.007" Score="6" ViewCount="133413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru 2004 2l auto tip tronic. It seems to hesitate or have slow or lack of power when you accelerate slowly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:52:56.067" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T07:28:15.240" Title="Hesitation or low power at slow acceleration" Tags="|subaru|hesitation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2011-06-27T11:53:46.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the mechanism used to switch the vent direction (I'm not familiar with the Windstar as they don't sell it over here). Most cars I have dealt with have a mechanical connection for that, but obviously a mechanical connection would be very unlikely to fail in the way you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from your symptoms that is is probably electrically controlled, and so the most likely cause is a poor connection somewhere in the circuit causing the controlling servo to engage/disengage as the vibration of driving makes and breaks the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a workshop manual for the car? This would enable you to confirm the mechanism used to activate the vent. If it is electrical, then I'm afraid it will be a pain to fix, as the chances are you'll have to take half the dashboard apart to get at the connections. It would then be a case of using a multimeter to diagnose where the faulty connection is (it could also be a break in one of the wires), and replacing / cleaning the connectors as appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent faults like this can be very difficult to locate, as they have the annoying habit of working all the time you've got half the car apart to find them, then failing again as soon as you've put it back together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T11:53:46.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T15:03:35.157" Score="14" ViewCount="29996" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite simply, I want to begin tuning and modifying automotive engines for hobby. I have always been fascinated with cars, and I want to become knowledgeable in as many aspects of car tuning as possible. In particular, I want to learn the right way. How can I start this the right way? The &quot;right way&quot; being a more thorough approach than simply doing google searches until the end of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a vague question, so let me give some background. I am a technical person so I am able to (and do so for a living) read and understand technical documentation. I am the type of person who wants to understand how something works before I work on it. Many people jump into engine &quot;tuning&quot; before knowing a single thing! I know of people trying to install big injectors and turbos and they know nothing of the underlying principles. I don't want to be that guy. I know this is a long road, and many things are only learned through experience. Having said that I want to benefit from others' experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By learning engine tuning, I want to be able to learn/know the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have intimate knowledge of all vital components of the modern internal combustion engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to properly understand and examine modern engine parameters (duty cycles, timing, temperatures, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to determine and create the proper fuel and timing maps for a modified engine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to determine when (and why) a current engine tune/map is insufficient/incorrect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I also know that one answer is to study specific questions like these. However, I am hoping that someone will be able to share resources which help getting someone such as myself started on the proper track. I want to learn this as if I was starting into a career as a race mechanic. If possible please suggest text books which can help me get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="348" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T11:49:51.163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T11:49:51.163" Title="How to begin learning engine tuning?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|tuning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2011-06-27T19:03:18.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blend air doors on the Windstar are vacuum controlled. The default position is defrost (windshield vents), meaning that if you loose vacuum supply it changes to defrost position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a vacuum hose going through the firewall and trace it to where it hooks up to the intake manifold. It goes through a one way check valve and it teed into a vacuum canister. Do a visual inspection on all the vacuum hoses connecting the items above, looking for holes etc. You also might have a pinhole in the diaphragm in one of the actuators. A vacuum pump like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; pictured below can be helpful in finding the problem. You don't really need all accessories, a standard mityvac can be bought for around $30. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZiUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the cracking, but the AC blowing on a hot windshield should not damage it. Is it possible the cracking noise is coming from under the hood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a diagram of the vacuum harness, to give you an idea of how the system works. Most of this is under the dash, except for the vacuum canister (#6) and the check valve (#7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrqVb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T19:28:13.823" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T19:28:13.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2011-06-27T21:35:06.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go around to some local shops and put their estimates against each other (openly) to drive the price down. There are a lot of &quot;universal&quot; pieces that can be used in exhaust repairs. I had everything (converter to the tail) replaced in my old Corsica (10 years ago maybe) for around $100. Of course this was no high end exhaust, but it was a Corsica. ;) Lasted until I sold the car some 6 years later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="747" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T21:35:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2011-06-28T00:37:38.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need for proper engine operation is a) air, b) fuel &amp;amp; c) ignition. If the the air intake is not obstructed, the throttle plate/cable not loose or sticking, then look for spark plugs and ignition wires. If all that is sorted out, look for fuel pump issues, or sensor errors (although you did not mention a check engine light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you need to replace the plugs, and/or the ignition wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T00:37:38.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2011-06-28T05:02:55.327" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is only one of probably many paths that you could take, but this is what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go online to a local community college and look through automotive classes they offer. Select an intro class (or maybe few different classes) and note the textbook they are using.  Buy and read that text book cover to cover.  The intro book had great overview (as well as many details) into general workings of a car.  That one book is enough for you to go the track, talk to race guys and actually know enough terms to hold up your end of a conversation (although stick as much as you can to listening :) )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy few books on engine tuning.  There are some good ones but some are also old. General theory still applies and if book has good reviews, I suggest you read it. However few things, like porting heads (using dremel to optimize air flow inside heads/intakes) no longer apply as new technology, like CNC along with computer modeling, can pretty much produce optimal heads which will get no benefit from manual porting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subscribe to Hot Rod and Car Craft magazines.  Some great articles and they cover latest technologies in just about anything that comes out.  I chose these magazines because they focus more on classics and stay away from cars which were made popular by Fast and Furious.  Also as any typical american, I strongly believe that 8 cylinders is better than 6 or 4 and for those that start moaning about the weight... I drive a 3100 lbs car with all aluminum LS6 V8 and perfect 50/50 weight distribution between front and rear :)  Btw, this is just my personal preference but I have full respect for Japanese engines that redline at 9k rpm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a car (or 2), buy it and work on it.  Choose one that has a good following and a good community behind it, then find a forum that has these people and make it your home.  I spent years reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/&quot;&gt;thirdgen.org&lt;/a&gt;, which is strictly 3rd generation F-body (camaro/firebird) cars and has a ton of guys who can take apart that entire car bolt by bolt and put it back together in a week.  Just make sure whatever forum you pick, it is not full of kids that discuss which spray paint and coffee can for exhaust makes their Civic go faster.  Those type of sites actually scare away knowledgeable people that you would want to talk to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T05:02:55.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2011-06-28T08:38:48.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best method I have found is talking to the guys who know. As DXM says, a good community forum can get you a long way, but there is really no substitute for sitting chatting to a genuine expert over a beer or two - and most (particularly the self-taught amateurs who have already been through the same process, or the older, retired engineers who want to pass their knowledge on before it gets lost) that I have come across will be all to happy to talk to a 'newbie' providing you are clearly keen, and show that you've done your homework and can ask sensible reasoned questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming from what you've written that you're already familiar with the basic principles of the 2- and 4-stroke I/C engines, if not Wikipedia has some good introductory articles (In fact, I would recommend reading them anyway, if only to follow the links to some of the more interesting, esoteric engine designs. I defy any technically competent person to watch the animation of the Napier Deltic engine and not be impressed...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the subject of books, it's a difficult call, as there are hundreds of them out there (and they're probably different between the UK and US). I'll agree that the older ones are often the best, but won't cover the more modern subjects - but then, IMHO, there is no point trying to understand (say) modern fuel management systems until you know what the engine is doing with that fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest looking at more than just the engine in isolation. That is just one part of the car, and I believe that you can get a much better understanding of what the engine needs to do if you're also familiar at least the basics of how the car steers. handles and stops, how the power is transmitted to the wheels, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning through experience helps too - having a carburettor in bits on the bench in front of you and being able to handle the parts and see how they all go together makes far more sense (to me at least) than just looking at a photo in a book - It is worth buying cheap, secondhand copies of the workshop manuals for whatever cars you are interested in so you can keep one in your work area and not worry about getting it oily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that gives you some food for thought - I'm no expert on tuning, but I've got a pretty good understanding of how the engine works in the first place, and it's all self-taught using the tricks above, and those listed in DXM's answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T08:38:48.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-28T17:10:37.737" Score="9" ViewCount="12864" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased a used minivan and it wasn't until we got it home and let it sit overnight that we noticed there was a distinct smell to the interior. The smell is not offensive but it is not welcoming either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best methods to remove smells from the interior of a vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2011-07-09T00:40:08.750" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T18:15:07.587" Title="Remove smell / odor from car's interior" Tags="|interior|smell|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="753" CreationDate="2011-06-28T19:17:53.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suspect is the ignition system, more specifically it sounds like you have a coil breaking down. The bad part about that is that there are 4 of them and they are expensive $80 - $100 each and without specialized equipment you aren't going to be able to tell which one is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try taking it to your local auto parts store, ask them if they can hook it up to a code scanner. I doubt there will be any codes but look at the failure records and for the miss-fire counters and see if any of the cylinders have more miss-fires than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T19:17:53.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1254" CreationDate="2011-06-28T22:11:40.213" Score="3" ViewCount="2198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday morning the check engine light turned on in my 1997 Nissan Maxima, 127K miles, manual transmission.  The mechanic pulled a speed sensor code but it's testing within range now.  I was planning to go on a 2-3 hour drive tomorrow.  If the sensor fails, what would the typical symptoms be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastEditorUserId="749" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T06:45:47.800" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T11:09:54.663" Title="Symptoms of failed speed sensor code on Nissan Maxima?" Tags="|nissan|sensor|maxima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2011-06-28T22:23:39.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I successfully used some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/interior+detailing/odor+exterminator.do?search=basic&amp;amp;keyword=odor&amp;amp;sortby=newArrivals&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Griot's &quot;Odor Exterminator&quot;&lt;/a&gt; to remove a smell from my new-to-me car just this weekend. It was some sort of sweet-ish chemical smell, either from something the previous owners spilled or from something the dealer used to clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T22:23:39.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-28T23:35:29.917" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drive on snowy roads, the brakes lock up nicely.  When I brake on dry roads, the van hops all over the place when I brake.. to the point I feel like the front end is going to fall off.  Could this be an ABS problem?  The light has been on for years, but this just started happening when we drove it again this winter.  It is full time AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any direction you can give me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="750" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T23:54:27.693" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T23:54:27.693" Title="Is it my ABS sensors that are bad on a 95 Safari Van?" Tags="|brakes|mil|abs|awd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1250" CreationDate="2011-06-28T23:53:51.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first step is to pull the ABS codes. That will give us a starting point for trouble shooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This model supports flash codes, you will need to jump across terminal A and H of the ALDL connector (under the drivers side of the dash). It may take about 30 seconds before the ABS light starts flashing codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Ar3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Count the flashes to get the code, they repeat 3 times if I remember correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit your question to include the codes you get, I have listed the codes below for reference, but will continue to help you once you let me know what the codes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list of codes follow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 21-RF speed sensor or circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 22-Missing RF speed signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 23-Erratic RF speed sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 25-LF speed sensor or circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 26-Missing LF speed signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 27-Erratic LF speed sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 29-Simultaneous drop out of front speed sensors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 31-RR speed sensor or circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 32-Missing RR speed signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 33-Erratic RR speed signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 35-VSS or LR speed sensor or circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 36-Missing VSS or LR speed sensor or circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 37-Erratic VSS or LR speed sensor signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 38-Wheel speed error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 41-54-Control valves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 61-63-Reset switches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 65-66-Open or shorted pump motor relay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 67-Open motor circuit or shorted BPMV output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 68-Locked motor or shorted motor circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 71-74-Memory errors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 81-Brake switch circuit shorted or open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 86-Shorted anti-lock indicator lamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 88-Shorted brake warning lamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T23:53:51.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1253" CreationDate="2011-06-29T03:57:00.503" Score="4" ViewCount="65439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought my '01 Cherokee back in March &amp;amp; have had nothing but problems since; I've been slowly fixing them when I have the time/cash. However, this particular issue has me stumped (and it's happened twice now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I was driving along when my check gauges light came on and my battery gauge plummeted to 0. My windows, windshield wipers, blinkers, etc; all electronics were incredibly sluggish. I was able to limp-it back home and start some troubleshooting. Tried to start it up &amp;amp; it kept acting as though it needed a jump. This actually happened before, but I was able to tighten the cables on the terminals and wiggle the wires a bit to get everything to work properly again. Having had this problem before and thinking it didn't just &quot;need a jump&quot;: first, I replaced my battery cables as the old ones were corroded, I had to splice some stuff because I couldn't afford the factory replacements; I don't believe that is the issue, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I lugged my battery up to Advanced Auto, did a check and ended up having to replace it, too. BAM! Started up like nobody's business. This victory was short lived, though. After a single minute of driving: &quot;Check Gauges&quot; lights up &amp;amp; battery shows as 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that this has happened a second time and having replaced the cables &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; replaced the battery, I am at a loss of what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of taking it in somewhere, but I'd really like to see if I can find &amp;amp; fix this problem myself first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;//UPDATE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After testing the battery (per Larry's suggestion), I have a few more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is putting out plenty of volts on it's own with engine off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the light comes on and the gauge falls to 0, my battery gauge &lt;strong&gt;hovers&lt;/strong&gt; at 12; meaning, the needle will move to just before or just after the 12V hash line intermittently &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Check Gauges&lt;/strong&gt; light will &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; come on after it's hit third gear and has been running in it for a least 10 seconds. I tested this for about 5 minutes riding around my neighborhood in 1st and 2nd trying to keep it under 3rd. Once I hit the main streets, the light came on within 10-15 seconds. I tried this twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After checking with a DVOM &lt;strong&gt;while the light is on&lt;/strong&gt;, the voltage is right around 12V. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that, I restarted and checked it while idling (no driving first, light off): same voltage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be my next step? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="646" LastEditorUserId="646" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T13:30:59.823" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T00:06:58.287" Title="'01 Jeep Cherokee - Check Gauges light &amp; low battery gauge" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1252" CreationDate="2011-06-29T05:03:28.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) check the voltage of the battery when this is happening. I suspect that the alternator is not charging. The voltage with the engine running should be (roughly) between 13 - 14 volts, anything less than 12.6 means the alternator is not charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T05:03:28.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1248" CreationDate="2011-06-29T11:09:54.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a failing speed sensor on a truck and the main symptom was the ABS system kicking on between 3-4 mph when I would come to a stop.  It was consistent until I fixed it.  However, it did not throw a check engine light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T11:09:54.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2011-06-29T11:46:52.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece missed from your question - you seem to have assumed the reason the mechanic told you to go to a Ford dealer was because of the antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible alternative is that only the Ford dealership is licenced to drain and refill your radiator - there may be warranties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know, it doesn't answer the headline question, but may still be the correct answer to your situation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T11:46:52.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="684" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:05:37.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the mechanic missed the last code on the list when he looked at the computer. It was the camshaft sensor. Thanks anyway, and sorry for taking so long to get back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T15:05:37.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1258" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:41:20.333" Score="5" ViewCount="12696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Honda Accord with over 170k miles on it. I have the oil changed regularly every 3000 miles. My mechanic noticed the oil levels were pretty low at each oil change and took a deeper look. He said the timing valve had sprung a leak and fixing it would be an 8-10 hour job, which was really not worth fixing up in his opinion. &#xA;If I buy a few quarts of the same oil and keep adding it if I feel the level is low (he recommended checking it every week), would that be okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Craig&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T03:13:01.020" Title="Oil leak - just keep refilling?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2011-06-29T18:24:15.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only familiar with my cars (and not at all with Hondas), but on both of my cars oil loss of up to 1 qt every 1000 miles is still considered &quot;within specification&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your car isn't visibly leaking/dripping oil it's always wise to do a weekly oil level check.  Even a new car can suddenly start using/leaking oil.  If something does start happening, hopefully one can catch it before it's a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T18:24:15.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="954" CreationDate="2011-06-29T18:28:43.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toyotas (and presumably Scions as well) are VERY sensitive to brake fluid level.  You can be well within the &quot;acceptable&quot; range, yet when under braking the fluid will move enough to just barely trip the sensor.  I keep mine topped right up to the &quot;full&quot; mark to avoid the light flickering under braking.  Then, when installing new brakes, I bleed some fluid out first to prevent overflow when the pistons get pushed back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T18:28:43.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1268" CreationDate="2011-06-30T14:01:09.567" Score="3" ViewCount="15993" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Focus 1.8 Ghia '99 V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little while ago a large section of the aluminium heat shield above my exhaust came loose.  Being in a situation where I needed to keep going and without tools, I crawled under and ripped the whole thing off.  Now (a few months later) there is a suspiciously aluminium like rattle coming from under the car at low rev ranges, which I suspect to be the remaining heat shield around the bolts which have probably worked a bit loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: is it safe to remove all the heat shield bolts, or do they serve to hold anything important on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T22:12:18.937" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T08:35:44.370" Title="Rattle on Ford Focus, suspect heat shield" Tags="|ford|exhaust|focus|rattle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-30T14:13:37.007" Score="5" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler (4 cyl) that has been infected by the infamous &quot;Death Wobble&quot;.  If this term is too slang then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/dw.html&quot;&gt;here is an article&lt;/a&gt; that can explain it better than I could hope to.  I would like to fix this myself but I know very little about vehicles so I think I'm going to quickly get in over my head.  Armed with my Hayne's Manual, Google, and a local You-Fix-It garage I hope I can make due.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I face is that this can be caused by a number factors and if I hope to do this myself I'll need to narrow it down to something specific.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to determine the specific cause by behavior alone?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem started a few years ago and disappeared for a few months after I got all new tires and an alignment.  I don't know why it came back though, I don't off-road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will usually start between 45-60MPH but will always stop if I change speed to &gt;35 or &amp;lt;70.  Most people with this problem report that it's &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; over a certain speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I fool for attempting this alone with my current skill-set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the meantime, I can't always change my speed to stop the wobble and have to drive through it for a minute or two.  I can control the vehicle fine so I am in no danger of wrecking, but am I causing excess damage to my Jeep by doing so?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="720" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:25:33.673" Title="Questions About the &quot;Death Wobble&quot;" Tags="|jeep|suspension|steering-wheel|wrangler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:52:43.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The thinner radiator might make it easier for the cold air to flow through the engine compartment.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The radiator itself wont cool an already cool engine at all if the thermostat is intact.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cold environments it is often necessary to use a &lt;strong&gt;grille cover&lt;/strong&gt; to limit cold air flow to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grille covers are especially necessary with small diesel engines not producing enough excess heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical DIY solution is a piece of cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="349" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T06:10:14.773" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T06:10:14.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-30T16:15:12.713" Score="5" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard a tire salesman say winter tires are dangerous in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the structural and material features that make winter tires not suitable for summer use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:17:25.317" Title="Why should winter tires not be used at summer?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-07-05T22:53:46.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1269" CreationDate="2011-06-30T16:21:36.287" Score="6" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much pressure should I use for a tire to settle on a rim?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there need to &lt;em&gt;glue&lt;/em&gt; the tire on the rim? (Or to try make it more airtight by any means.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:19:43.823" Title="Putting tires on rims" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:15:12.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to good answer by @Bob:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some tricks that can be used to ease the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A knock sensor for detecting premature detonations (and adjusting boost pressure). E.g. Saab &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_Performance_Control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;APC&lt;/a&gt; allows safe use of lower octane fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_%28engines%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Injecting water&lt;/a&gt; to cool the combustion chambers (instead of excessive fuel)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Per cylinder exthaust thermometers (and sequential injection / ignition)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:15:12.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1263" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:17:25.317" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to materials used and design, they tend to overheat and fail.  Winter tires are also typically not speed-rated like Summer tires (since they can't handle the heat of higher speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:17:25.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2011-06-30T18:31:35.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talking a look at the article some of the items you can check yourself, for example the ball joints.  Other balancing and alignment actions require special equipment.   I would suggesting taking that list and checking everything you are able to on your own first.  Your Hayne's Manual should walk you through steps to check the suspension parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T18:31:35.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1260" CreationDate="2011-06-30T18:33:43.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be able to remove the bolts as long as they don't hold anything to them.  Even if there is something attached you can remove them to detach the rest of the shield and then reattach.  Either way, removing your heat shield is not what you should focus on, but instead installing a new one.  Your exhaust gets really hot and the shield is not just for looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T18:33:43.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1264" CreationDate="2011-07-01T07:47:27.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, there is no need to glue the tyre on, the airtight seal is simply made by the rubber against the alloy. Many tyre fitters do use a sealing compound however, which helps to fill any imperfections in the wheel surface that might allow air to seep through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, the pressure needed to get the tyre to settle seems to vary massively depending on the individual combination of tyre and rim. I've seen some places have to go up incredibly high (90+ psi) to get them to pop on in the first place. Needless to say I was keeping well back until the fitter had dropped it back to normal worknig pressure (32psi in my case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T07:47:27.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:05:41.090" Score="9" ViewCount="72592" Body="&lt;p&gt;My feeling is to just pull it up as far as it goes, but I've heard this is bad for the brakes and the car and so it would be better to pull it up with the button pressed till you feel slight resistance, then let go of the button and leave it as pulled up as it is..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - for any respondents in the UK - is there anything in the highway code concerning handbrakes? How about over there in the US?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any rules for your handbrakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="758" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:37:46.940" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T06:29:22.143" Title="How far should you put your handbrake up?" Tags="|brakes|handbrake|emergency-brakes|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1271" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:38:34.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Honda Civic&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compact vehicle produced by Honda offered in sedan, coupe, and hatchback versions. Originally introduced in 1972 as a subcompact model, each generation has typically seen size increases.  Good fuel economy has been major selling point for the vehicle.  This has remained a feature even as the size of the vehicle has increased. Currently Honda offers alternate fuel versions including a hybrid model and a natural gas that extend fuel savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5x6w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5x6w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T18:02:41.967" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T18:02:41.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1272" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:38:34.143" Score="0" Body="A compact vehicle produced by Honda offered in sedan, coupe, and hatchback versions.   " OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T18:02:19.070" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T18:02:19.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:11:08.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MOT requirements state that when fully applied, the lever should not be at the end of its travel, i.e. there should be a few 'clicks' left before it hits the stops. You should apply it fully, otherwise it won't be properly on and won't hold the car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applying it, be sure to press the button in rather than letting it click over the ratchet, as the latter will increase the wear on the ratchet which could eventually lead to failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T13:11:08.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-07-01T13:50:20.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can say that if I only pull my handbrake up until there's light to moderate resistance that it's not enough if I'm parked on a hill.  I had my car pop out of gear and start slowly creeping down a hill with the handbrake on like that before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the opposite of pulling on it both hands to gorilla it on is also a bad idea.  I was parking on a steep hill one time and wanted to make sure to get it extra tight.  I snapped the cable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something in between would be good.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T13:50:20.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1326" CreationDate="2011-07-01T15:40:01.463" Score="7" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what's going on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature remains constant on the highway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature remains constant for short trips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature generally remains constant when the car is not moving.  (It sometimes creeps up at long lights.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For longer trips, the temperature increases when I accelerate from a stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually the needle will get to about 75% - 80% of maximum.  Then the temperature will drop back to normal.  Then the process will repeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've replaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine: Head gasket was venting into the coolant.  (The shop did a &quot;sniff&quot; test).  I got a re-manufactured engine put in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump: Replaced it when the first radiator went to heaven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various hoses as they fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts about what could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastEditorUserId="760" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T14:01:14.007" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T16:35:48.083" Title="94' Honda Civic Cooling issues" Tags="|honda|civic|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1283" CreationDate="2011-07-01T19:05:50.743" Score="4" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Additional information provided by LovelyWife(TM) - listening outside the car, she has proclaimed that the rattle / buzz / drone / resonance is coming from the front of the car and sounds like it's coming from below the engine between the wheels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was overly optimistic in my assessment of the previous question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1044/57&quot;&gt;How should I diagnose an exhaust &amp;quot;howl&amp;quot; when descending through 3200 rpms?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the current situation on my currently all-stock (intake and exhaust tracts) 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX: when revving carefully around 3250 rpms (+/- 100 rpms), there is a distinct jump in the overall noise level on a totally different peak frequency (higher by about an octave on my uncalibrated ears) from the standard exhaust note.  This is a super-annoying drone that is easily sustained and right at a convenient cruising speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't present (or is greatly reduced) under acceleration but is very obvious at a steady speed or when descending through that rev band.  This induces me to think that the problem is downstream of the turbo as it's most obvious in an off-boost situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I know so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the stock muffler - the problem was much more obvious but still present in the aftermarket muffler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the aftermarket muffler - see 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the gasket on the muffler - replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the nearby heat shielding - same problem with and without the shielding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's challenging to tell if the problem exists with the muffler removed entirely as it's swamped but all the other noise (or song, depending on your preference).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't appear to be the donut ring on the intermediate pipe after visual inspection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There don't appear to be any obvious holes or leaks in the exhaust tract downstream of the turbo after crawling around under the car all morning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I hearing the resonator on the intermediate pipe fail? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I hearing the pre-cat on the uppipe fail?  &lt;em&gt;This is a fabled bogeyman since the WRX was first introduced to the US.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there really is a hidden exhaust leak, why would it be so tightly bound to a single rev range?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:38:12.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T22:38:12.400" Title="What could be causing a distinct exhaust drone in a tight band around 3250 rpms on a 2004 Subaru WRX?" Tags="|subaru|exhaust|noise|wrx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1201" CreationDate="2011-07-01T20:59:35.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pictures I'm seeing of your bike are correct, you have the adjusters built into the swing arm.  The proceedure should be in the owners/service manual for the bike, but here is a brief overview.  I cannot stress enough that you should disregard the procedure below and reference the owners/service manual instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that note, you basically loosen the axle enough that you can push the wheel forward (usually hit the tire with a sledge to make sure it moves forward).  Then find the two adjusters (nuts and/or bolts) which are hanging out the back of the swing arm.  They should have a locking nut, which you will have to break loose.  You'll then screw the adjusters out, which will allow the wheel to slide backwards by grabbing the wheel and pulling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wheel is far enough back to properly tension the chain (again, see the owners manual), check the alignment.  There should be notches on the swing arm to help with this bit.  Once the axle is square and the chain is correctly tensioned (not too tight!  See the owners/service manual!), lock down the adjusters and tighten back down the axle to the correct torque specs (manual, again.  It might be higher than you think, my Hayabusa is specced to 130 ft/lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="359" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T20:59:35.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1132" CreationDate="2011-07-01T21:04:51.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said that it is leaking from somewhere &quot;under the tank&quot; and then jump directly to the carbs.  If it is the carbs, you'll probably have to tear into them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is from under the tank, there are a few things you can check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the tank intact?  You may have rust burrowing through the tank and causing leaks.  This is bad.  Should be visible in the fuel coming out of the petcock.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the fuel lines intact?  The rubber fuel lines can dry-out and crack pretty quick.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any leaking at the petcock?  Depending on the design of your CBR, there may be a vacuum-activated petcock, inside of which the membrane can dry out and crack, causing leaks.  Or the seal between the petcock and the tank has cracked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should give you somewhere to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="359" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T21:04:51.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1365" CreationDate="2011-07-02T08:50:35.790" Score="4" ViewCount="3355" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front mudguard, built out of what seems to be flexible plastic material, recently cracked and needs to be either repaired or replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine works at a car body-shop, and offered to fix the mudguard by attaching fibreglass on the inside of it. This sounds very attractive, since the stock replacement parts for the mudguard cost roughly 15% of the value of the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this solution (or another repair solution) likely to work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine that the constant shaking and bombardment with road debris might cause the plexiglass to crack and/or dislodge, but don't know whether these are valid concerns. If repair is likely to work, what should I look for in the fixed mudguard to make sure that the job was done well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T16:12:14.213" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T11:30:14.640" Title="Motorcycle mud-guard hit and broken; any chance of repair, or is this something best addressed with replacement parts?" Tags="|motorcycle|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2011-07-02T13:56:21.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had somewhat similar symptoms with a Truck that had a replaced Radiator, Water Pump, Hoses, and Thermostat.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the problem was too much air being trapped in the system as the thermostat was not allowing the air to bleed through.  (I drilled a tiny hole in the thermostat and it appeared to fix the issue).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a few weeks later it started to overheat and I had significant amount of coolant start leaking out of the intake gasket.  Fix that and haven't had a problem in 20,000+ miles.  That might have been the root issue all along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit based on updated question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the cooling fan is coming on at the right time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also make sure that the temperature sensor is working correctly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T13:42:04.030" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T13:42:04.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1289" CreationDate="2011-07-02T18:18:16.543" Score="9" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Minnesota.  I've seen lots of people &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1174/all-weather-tires-vs-winter-tires&quot;&gt;recommend&lt;/a&gt; changing to winter tires in the winter.  However, what doesn't make sense to me is that the roads are plowed very well here.  90% of my driving in the winter is either on dry or liquid-wet pavement; it is rare when I drive in the snow or ice.  So I should get winter tires for conditions that are only in effect 10% of the time?  Why not then keep the winter tires on year-round?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="711" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T17:23:31.627" Title="All weather tires vs winter tires on well-plowed roads" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-03T00:09:59.467" Score="3" ViewCount="21853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Saturn Ion with a failed power window motor (front driver's side).  The removal procedure requires that the window be lowered, but it's stuck up (closed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the power window regulator and glass into the lowered position without the help of the motor?  This regulator is a big X shape, not a cable-driven design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="761" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T10:07:14.830" Title="Moving a dead power window in order to remove it" Tags="|saturn|power-windows|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1276" CreationDate="2011-07-03T00:57:38.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trip to the dealer had the car up on a lift with a puzzled mechanic wandering around underneath, repeatedly causing the rattle to trigger.  After a while, we both looked under the car and have concluded that the problem is the heatshield over the right hand exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That isn't terribly surprising: heatshield metal has never been good and, after 114000 miles, it hasn't improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His conclusion was to leave it alone: his labor would have been cost prohibitive just to replace the shield: you can't just cut the bolts and pull the shield loose as that's where the front O2 sensor goes.  You'd have to cut a notch in the shield or pull the O2 sensor (no thanks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at this point I'm trying to think of ways to better secure the shield in place or generally break up the harmonics at that rev range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another update: I managed to get a very large hose clamp (metal ring with a tightening screw) all the away around the questionable heat shield.  I tightened that down and clipped off the remaining tab of clamp and the current result = no unpleasant noise (as yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, I will likely replace the downpipe and, in the process, take off that shield for replacement and / or adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: after a little more research, that's actually an engine gas temperature sensor (not O2) that's effectively monitoring the state of the pre-cat that's in the up-pipe.  If it turns out that the problem is not the heat shield but is, rather, the up-pipe itself, I may be a lot more interested in taking that apart.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T02:13:42.813" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T02:13:42.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1310" CreationDate="2011-07-03T01:29:55.077" Score="5" ViewCount="3284" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on my saga: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1276/57&quot;&gt;What could be causing a distinct exhaust drone in a tight band around 3250 rpms on a 2004 Subaru WRX?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of that quest, we concluded that the right hand exhaust manifold heat shield was resonating at a particular rev band.  One of the common suggestions is to remove those heat shields: they're made of poor quality metal that will rust / corrode / vibrate / what have you after a certain amount of salty winters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on a turbo motor, it's a bad idea to let heat out: at a minimum, you're reducing the exhaust energy available to the turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it possible to use header tape or other heat insulation to replace these metal heat shields?  I.e., can you get as good or better heat insulation without the metal, the vibration, the horribly rusted bolts, etc. by wrapping the manifold (or at least that part)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:53:25.480" Title="Can header / exhaust insulation replace metal heat shields?" Tags="|exhaust|wrx|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4131" CreationDate="2011-07-03T21:14:55.560" Score="3" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I release the clutch at 3:rd or 4:th gear on my -98 BMW 328i, it makes a little low pitched squeal, for maybe half a second. This is not an issue on the other gears however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be at fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T03:56:36.817" Title="BMW E46 Clutch squeal" Tags="|bmw|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-03T21:19:21.457" Score="4" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the windows will not go up or down including the sunroof. Everything else is working. The fuse under the hood looks ok. There no sign of it being bad. Can it still be the fuse and if not what else can it be? Should I replace the fuse any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2007 Nissan Maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="764" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T15:11:13.883" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T15:11:13.883" Title="2007 Nissan Maxima Windows and Sunroof are Unresponsive" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1286" CreationDate="2011-07-03T21:29:13.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be sure on the fuse either replace it or better still, test it with a multimeter.  Test it for conductivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuse may look visibly ok but still be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The multimeter is going to be needed to test past the fuse also as you will need to find where the break in the circuit is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T21:29:13.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2011-07-03T21:38:49.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the part of the question of why not just leave winter tires on all year, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1263/why-should-winter-tires-not-be-used-at-summer&quot;&gt;Why should winter tires not be used at summer?&lt;/a&gt;  (essentially, they aren't made to handle summer conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't purely about surface conditions, although that is a big portion of it.  The compounds that winter tires are made out of are designed for the lower temperature ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its the simple jack of all trades master or none statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winter tires excel in cold weather, will fail in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summer tires excel in summer and will fail in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-Season tires will work in both, but cannot match the performance of the specific season tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T21:38:49.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1281" CreationDate="2011-07-04T02:20:24.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said before, it's a trade-off: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1174/all-weather-tires-vs-winter-tires/1193#1193&quot;&gt;All weather tires vs winter tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I should get winter tires for&#xA;  conditions that are only in effect 10%&#xA;  of the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends: how bad is that 10%?  Is it the difference between well-plowed and deep snow with a slush garnish?  Are you trying to improve the handling or are you worried that you'll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not be able to get to the top of a critical hill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not be able to stop at the bottom of a critical hill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not be able to make that icy turning offramp up ahead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Rhode Island with all-season tires and our snows are generally minimal or manageable, well-plowed (especially after I've finished shoveling my driveway) and I avoid driving when I'm worried about other drivers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, I still wish I had dedicated snow tires for exactly that 10% when everything goes wrong and all the margins of error become much tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why not then keep the winter tires on&#xA;  year-round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winter tires will give poor performance on dry hot roads when considering handling, top speed and road noise.  They're wasted in warm weather &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you decide to try rallying or rallycross.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; Holy cow. The winter of 2014-2015 has been crazy even in Rhode Island!  This year, I bought nice winter performance tires and I'm so much happier. The performance envelope is much wider, giving me a lot more room to avoid the crazies who shouldn't be driving even on a dry summer day, much less in the snow!  I'll be getting new summer wheels and tires in the spring and switching back and forth from now on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:10:39.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1438" CreationDate="2011-07-04T11:06:22.300" Score="7" ViewCount="48634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for ways to improve the life of the dual mass flywheel (DMF) in my 2005 Ford Focus tdci. I have heard that they can wear out quite quickly on the Ford Focus if they are driven in city conditions a lot, i.e. running on low revs and lots of stop-start driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like a lot of people I spend 15 minutes sitting still in traffic most days, so I am trying to think of ways to improve my driving style to reduce the wear on the DMF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand that at low revs a diesel engine puts a lot of strain on the DMF because it is running less smooth, however is there much wear on the DMF when you are sitting idle in neutral in traffic? Surely there wouldnt be much strain on the engine, so not much strain on the DMF also?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you're running at low speeds in traffic and the revs are down around 1000rpm and the engine seems to be under strain and so could be straining the DMF, would it be better to drive faster at say 1500 rpm and then coast in neutral and then go back to 1500rpm when you're slowing down? Or to just stay driving consistently at 1000rpm? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it just goes to show that diesels aren't meant for city driving!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:04:06.370" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T14:20:25.130" Title="How to extend the life of the dual mass flywheel in a diesel engine?" Tags="|clutch|diesel|performance|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1294" CreationDate="2011-07-04T14:10:11.303" Score="11" ViewCount="5065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught that waxing a car helped protect the finish by preventing damage from the elements - water, salt, etc..  The first vehicles I owned (a 1981 Impala and a 1978 Thunderbird) developed larges areas of rust in the body.  This could have been from their age (both vehicles were around 8 years old when I drove them) or from my lack of maintenance.  I waxed each car only once while I owned it but I did wash them approximately twice a month when the weather was nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've owned more modern vehicles for over 10 years and I've noticed that rust is not as prevalent in these vehicles even though I've done less maintenance on these vehicles with no waxing and less washes.  I attribute this, wrongly or rightly, to the advances in automotive finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is waxing necessary with modern vehicles?  I guess I'm looking for justification for my laziness. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="766" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T15:10:17.690" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T16:01:51.457" Title="What are the benefits to waxing a modern car?" Tags="|paint|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1296" CreationDate="2011-07-04T14:29:39.183" Score="4" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently servicing (changing seals/gaskets, some cleaning and repainting some parts) my front axle on a Toyota Land Cruiser 87. I'm also putting new brake rotors/calipers/pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean the inner axle components from all the old grease/oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T20:22:19.400" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T12:08:32.353" Title="What is the best way to clean axle components?" Tags="|toyota|cleaning|grease|axle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="729" CreationDate="2011-07-04T14:36:25.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POR15&lt;/a&gt; which will stop the rust from spreading. It is really good on surface rust. I'm currently using it on my 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser and works well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T14:36:25.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1291" CreationDate="2011-07-04T15:10:02.010" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;: Even if you only use spray wax after a wash, it's better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you live, what kind of driving you do and how you generally maintain your car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that waxing a car puts a sacrificial layer on top of the clear coat which sits on top of the paint (assuming that you have a generally standard paint job).  That means that any contaminants (e.g., dust, bird crap, acid rain, etc.) has to get through the wax before it can start bothering your clear coat and then get to your paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rust question is rarely tied directly to waxing, though.  For example, when I think of your example cars, I think of rust around the door edges.  That was often a case of bad drainage or bad paint at those seams and edges, not a question of wax.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the process of washing and waxing the car generally means that you're spending time going over the finish and looking for problem spots before they get worse.  The chances are higher that you'll spot an area that needs touch-up paint before it becomes a big problem if you're already looking at the cat, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, even cheap cars are expensive.  It's worth a little time to inspect and maintain your investment.  Even if you only use spray wax after a wash, it's better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: responding to the specific question about rust:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sacrificial layer acts as a barrier between the ruster (the water) and the rustee (the metal).  In addition, it acts as a barrier between the metal and a corrosion-enhancer like road salt.  If the salt can get to the metal, it encourages water to concentrate and to corrode the metal.  Normally, you have paint and clear coat between the metal and the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I drive on roads in the real world and, sadly, my paint hasn't remained pristine and perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you have a deep scratch or pit (say from a stone thrown by the truck in front of you) that actually pierces the paint, wax can sit in the scratch and act as a barrier even without paint.  This is especially important if you aren't microscopically inspecting your paint all the time (I certainly don't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I do when I don't feel like waxing: pour a bit of liquid wax into the bucket before you wash the car.  You'll get a layer on the car without a lot of hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T21:38:30.907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T21:38:30.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-04T18:26:44.123" Score="1" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Suzuki Katana.  Here is the story, after winter it fired up fine, just had a lag on the throttle. Pulled out air filter bike sounded like it loaded up and just died.  I left it for a week. I went to fire it up and it just turns over.  It will backfire and then nothing, just keeps turning over. I just replaced plugs I am getting gas as the float bowls are full. Battery holds charge great, it's only a year old. I have spark on all plugs, just won't start. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="767" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:36:50.523" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T20:36:50.523" Title="2001 katana won't start" Tags="|electrical|starting|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2011-07-04T22:21:03.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/590981--brakleen-brake-parts-cleaner-by-crc-part-05089.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brake cleaner&lt;/a&gt; for all metal parts, some of which could be related to actual brakes.  It's good for for anything from gears to axles, bearing races, rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T22:21:03.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1299" CreationDate="2011-07-05T00:45:58.607" Score="1" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a car stereo a few months ago and it seems to forget all of its settings whenever it loses power. The stereo the car came with didn't have this issue. I am familiar with electronics so I am assuming it needs a constant power source to keep the memory in-tact, however the ponytail connector is different than that of my cars, I had to splice wires to get it to work. There are 2 power cables that supply power and I have tried both and neither seem to do the trick (only 1 combination works as the ampage is different).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can possibly rig a small battery to one of the cables or something so that there is a constant power supply going to the radio? Or perhaps the battery in the stereo itself (if it has one) is dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Sukuki Swift 2006 plus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stereo is a TKO BH-MP180&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="768" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T13:16:29.770" Title="Car Stereo Forgetting Settings Upon Restart" Tags="|suzuki|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1300" CreationDate="2011-07-05T07:59:48.100" Score="2" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is an ODB2 diagnostics port on a 1993 Mitsubishi Triton MJ 4x4 Ute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:36:41.063" Title="OBD/OBD2 port on a 1993 mitsubishi triton MJ" Tags="|obd-ii|obd-i|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2011-07-05T10:59:04.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically car stereos do require a constant voltage source in order to keep settings - they may have a supercap which keeps settings for a short while (for changing batteries over etc), but over time this may degrade, and in any case is only designed to last for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to do this you usually have an unswitched power wire directly from the battery, as well as a switched lead (on when the ignition is on) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current draw should be low when the stereo is off, so it shouldn't drain a good battery quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update from your comment&lt;/strong&gt;: Measure the voltage on the leadsw powering your radio. One should be 12 volts all the time, the other should be 0v normally and 12 volts when the engine is running (pretty certain the Swift is negative ground). If neither is giving you continuous 12 volts then that is your problem - the solution is to wire the continuous power lead direct to the car battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T15:10:31.510" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T15:10:31.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2011-07-05T13:36:41.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlikely, but I can't say for certain.  AFAIK, Mitsubishi first started putting OBD-II diagnostics ports into the 1995 model year cars (in preparation for the 1996 OBD-II requirement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely is OBD-I, which would require a proprietary plug (or jumpering of a couple pins) to read/force a code display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:36:41.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1303" CreationDate="2011-07-05T14:35:23.713" Score="4" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;We own a Nissan 350 Z and this morning it would not start. It would turn over but it wouldn't fire. After pulsing the gas a little bit it would start but then letting off the gas would cause it to die. I held it down long enough to get it to stay started. After that I had no issue starting it and assumed I got some bad gas. However, when I went to pull away I noticed that three lights on the dash were on and the car would not accelerate. It would move at idle speeds only, pressing the gas would not cause it to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lights that are on seem completely unrelated and are thoroughly confusing me. The lights are &quot;Check engine soon&quot;, &quot;TCS OFF&quot;, and &quot;SLIP&quot;. None of those seem related to one another and I'm unsure why a light such as &quot;SLIP&quot; would be on in our parking lot in the middle of summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could still be some bad fuel, but I'm pretty confused about the rest of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastEditorUserId="770" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T02:23:59.737" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T18:04:43.220" Title="2003 Nissan 350 Z won't accelerate" Tags="|engine|electrical|fuel-system|nissan|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2011-07-05T15:10:50.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1987 Land Cruiser, the death wobble on these machine can come from a bad aligment, tie-rod ends that need replacement or the steering stabilizer. Basically something is now worn-out and loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But be aware, changing the stabilizer may just mask any underlying issue, so check everything else before replacing the stabilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T16:21:58.500" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:21:58.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1301" CreationDate="2011-07-05T16:20:35.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Check Engine code could be related to the other two.  Pull it and see. It might give additional clues to the cause.  Attack this issue first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traction control and SLIP sound related to each other.  Look into what causes the SLIP light to stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad fuel typically should not keep the car from accelerating if it is idling fine.  There might be a sensor that is detecting a problem with the fuel or something else and disregarding your accelerator pedal position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:20:35.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-05T17:51:33.583" Score="8" ViewCount="1851" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 Toyota Camry.  I can't drive in the rain because when I do the power steering goes out.  Any ideas of what might be the problem?  No mechanic has been able to tell me what is going on.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="772" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T04:22:10.000" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T04:22:10.000" Title="When I drive my car through a puddle the power steering goes out" Tags="|toyota|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2011-07-05T19:11:14.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that the belt may be slipping when you hit the puddle...and as a result you may be losing feedback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long are you &lt;i&gt;without&lt;/i&gt; power steering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T19:11:14.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-05T19:21:54.383" Score="4" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the sprayers on my car misses the windshield completely. How can I adjust it to point in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2002 Subaru Legacy GT, but I've run into this problem with many cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T08:28:01.253" Title="How do you adjust a windshield sprayer?" Tags="|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1306" CreationDate="2011-07-05T19:34:21.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pin board, needle, a finish nail or whatever I have in the garage. Put in the sprayers holes and correct alignment. Done! Make sure to not push any object to far as it can damage inner tube and start to leak!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T15:26:36.520" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T15:26:36.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1306" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:19:47.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my cars have had to have the nozzles adjusted at one time or other - especially after cleaning. There is always a hole or a V shaped slot that you can tweak up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:19:47.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1301" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:50:46.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there is a procedure to deciper OBD faults on the VQ35DE motor without any additional hardware - this allows you to count the # of times the CEL blinks to determine a wide variety of fault codes.  I'll try to post it when i find it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are inexpensive OBD2 bluetooth dongles that will let you pull faults very easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you do this, we're all taking shots in the dark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:50:46.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1284" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:53:25.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From past experience, I've found that headerwrap (a company called Thermotec makes some nice stuff) is a lightweight alternative to replace heat shields.. HOWEVER..I've found that the wrap traps moisture.  I had used this stuff on a set of headers and within 2 years (this is in the west coast mind you - no salt or snow), i had 2 primaries rust and disintegrate beneath the wrap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So short answer - no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:53:25.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1327" CreationDate="2011-07-06T01:27:03.583" Score="6" ViewCount="59210" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Volvo XC90 refused to start tonite, occasionally displaying the message &quot;Immobilizer - See Manual&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for solutions, and came across two suggestions: lock &amp;amp; unlock the door 5 times (didn't work) and try turn one the key to position 2, press &amp;amp; hold the odometer button while turning the key to position 3, then release the button &amp;amp; turn the key off.  That didn't work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried reversing the key, and using the 2nd key - nothing helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other way to get the car to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T22:35:04.683" Title="Volvo won't start - &quot;Immobilizer - See Manual&quot;" Tags="|security|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-01-10T01:07:01.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2011-07-06T12:08:32.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ih8mud.com forums&lt;/a&gt; is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;great&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; resource for land cruisers with an extremely loyal following - I own an 80 series and use it for reference and help for all kinds of maintenance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T12:08:32.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1314" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:53:43.757" Score="15" ViewCount="25520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a forward rotor on my '04 Chrysler Sebring causing a lot of pulsation when braking. I replaced the rotor- but within about a month the problem had re-appeared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys at Monroe noticed my ball joints on my lower control arms are bad- they have a bit of wiggle that they said kept them from doing an alignment, and also said it would be the source of my warped rotors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they know what they're talking about- is the ball joint really the culprit? What else might cause warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="776" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T17:29:17.720" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T20:47:34.100" Title="What can cause warped rotors?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1313" CreationDate="2011-07-06T15:44:33.120" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Improper wheel nut torque, use a torque wrench, or an impact wrench with torque sticks to put on the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rapid cooling such as running through water with the brakes hot is also suppose to cause it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap pads, they breakdown under heat and leave deposits on the rotor surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball joints should not cause the rotors to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of Torque sticks below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CD8b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T15:44:33.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-06T16:24:52.053" Score="3" ViewCount="2503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Infiniti i30 with 160K miles that is in fantastic shape. I purchased it from a mechanic who had gotten it from a customer who basically ended up not wanting it. The mechanic replaced the idle air control valve and one of the six ignition coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few days of buying the car, I noticed that the car wasn't accelerating as quickly as one would expect an Infiniti to. Also, I was driving (probably around 50mph, and decelerating) and the transmission slipped, but was fine after slowing the car down, throwing it in park, then back into drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it into a shop after having pulled the DTC myself (code 1320), and we basically decided it would be best to replace all of the coils (minus the one that had already been replaced) and spark plugs, since they had never been replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This improved acceleration considerably, but the car still seems to have trouble going from a full stop. It drives just fine, but it lags when it shifts between first, second, and third gear, causing a slight surge, or rocking back and forth as the gears change over. The check engine light is on, as well as the &quot;SLIP&quot; light. I checked for DTCs again, and I'm still getting 1320.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what might be the problem? The guys at the shop said if the coils don't fix it, then it may have something to do with the ECCS wiring harness? Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastEditorUserId="777" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T11:41:06.347" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T03:15:12.680" Title="Sluggish Acceleration, Minor Surging" Tags="|transmission|ignition|surging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1260" CreationDate="2011-07-06T16:54:47.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a mechanic remove mine on my focus (2003) (it was half off anyway) and it's been fine since winter. I think the car got louder though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to check your front coil springs.  I thought the problem was the heat shield, but it turned out I had a broken front right coil spring.  Fixing that got rid of the rattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let a mechanic sell you the whole front end, just get the coil springs (both of them for balance) fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T16:54:47.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-06T19:44:13.037" Score="4" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting codes p0031 and p1148 on my 2007 Altima 3.5 SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, p1148 is caused by p0031. P0031 relates to the voltage on the heater circuit of the 02 sensor on Bank 1, Sensor 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that most likely I just need to replace the O2 sensor, but I'm unsure (after researching for hours) which one I should be replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this would be the Front or Rear? And if it is downstream or upstream?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="778" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T11:55:12.247" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T01:20:31.310" Title="Which O2 sensor is bad?" Tags="|nissan|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1295" CreationDate="2011-07-06T21:10:19.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full float bowls don't necessarily mean a lot. Have you confirmed that you're getting gas to the plugs? Did you drain the float bowls before you laid the bike up for winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need three things to get the engine running - fuel, spark and compression. Assuming that the timing isn't way off (which would also lead to backfiring), you've got a spark. Which leaves fuel or compression. It might be worth testing the compression but if you can feel the engine move air (ie, you can feel the pulses out the exhaust when cranking) I would assume the compression is still there, given that I assume the bike was running last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leaves the fuel. If you crank the engine for a little while, are the plugs wet afterwards? Or dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the carbs are clogged from fuel deposits, especially if you haven't drained the bowls or run them dry. Here's what I'd do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the choke is actually working, the mixture might be too lean to start from cold otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the fuel filter is block if you've got one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it does have a vacuum fuel tap, set it to prime to make sure you're getting enough gas to the carbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the plugs, especially if the engine has been flooded. Might be time to buy some new ones. For some reason, flooded plugs never seem to work that well afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the gas is older than 6 months, drain it or at least top up the tank with fresh stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull of the float bowls and look for deposits. If you find any, chances are that the jets are (partially) clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find any deposits, you might want to try and clean the carbs with some carb cleaner and see if that improves matters. If it does but it's still not right, you might need to get the carbs cleaned in an Ultrasound bath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, you &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; put the airfilter back in, didn't you? If the jetting is marginal already, the additional air from the lack of air filter might make the mixture too lean to fire properly on a cold engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T21:10:19.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1320" CreationDate="2011-07-07T06:08:28.147" Score="5" ViewCount="3231" Body="&lt;p&gt;While turning a corner [a left] my back driver's side window shattered and filled the back seat with bits of glass.  As near as I can tell it all fell in.  I can not see a rock amongst the debris.  A BB or pellet may be there as they are small and I have not cleaned up the entire mess yet.  Barring a misbehaving child, is there something in a power window system that can under rare conditions cause a window to shatter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="782" LastEditorUserId="782" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T06:13:37.253" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T08:32:47.553" Title="What can cause a window to just shatter?" Tags="|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1319" CreationDate="2011-07-07T08:32:47.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was a weakness or chip, the slight bending placed on a pane of glass by turning could be enough to shatter it. When you turn a corner in any car there is flex in the chassis - usually this wouldn't be enough to cause any problems though, as there is rubber holding the window in place and this should flex enough, so I can only assume something had already weakened the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the simpler alternative is a BB or pellet, as you mention - and one could even have done the damage and bounced so may not be discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T08:32:47.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1260" CreationDate="2011-07-07T08:35:44.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take off the heat shield expect your power to drop slightly, as the area under the bonnet/hood will get hotter, which will also heat up incoming air. This is more of an issue on highly tuned cars, but may still be noticeable on yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend getting it replaced, rather than removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T08:35:44.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1317" CreationDate="2011-07-07T14:11:38.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bank 1 is the same side as the number one spark plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bank 2 is the opposite side as the number one spark plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensor 1 is before the catalytic converter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensor 2 is after the catalytic converter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bank 1 Sensor 1, would be the same side as the number one spark plug before the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T14:11:38.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1561" CreationDate="2011-07-07T18:30:39.213" Score="8" ViewCount="137457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I have a Grand Am 2003 V6. It only has 80k miles. My car ran great when I got it(used), but at some point it began to have minor temperature problems. It would always run a little bit hotter than it should. This basically just meant I couldn't keep it idling forever. At some point I took a drive for about an hour and the vehicle was running fine. I got to where I needed. On my way back home though it overheated. It didn't blow up or anything because I caught it in time, but it hit the redline. I checked it and it had no coolant at all. I let it cool off and filled it up with water and there weren't any leaks and it drove fine after that except for the before mentioned idle-overheating problem. This was about 2 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran over a deer a few months ago though and now the problems are worse. It was discovered that one of my fans was burned up, so that could have been the previous problem. Now though, the radiator has been replaced and both fans work and now it stays hotter than usual just driving. The temperature it usually should be at is about 200F. It now commonly stays about 205 and can get as high as 225 with just normal driving(note, 260F is red line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more unique thing about this. If my engine is at about 205 when I park, if I turn off my car and leave it for about 15 minutes, when I come back and start it, it will usually be about 215 or so. Basically, noticeably hotter after turning it off and back on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked for leaks -- There may be a very small leak somewhere. But it shouldn't be anything to worry about because I fill it up with about 2 cups of coolant or so after 3 or 4 months. So it's a small leak, if not just evaporation. And of course, I've checked to make sure I have enough coolant and that it's mixed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the only other thing(which is getting fixed soon) is that my air conditioner lines are ran wrong with one of the lines right against a heat shield on the engine, but that shouldn't affect the temp of the car should it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could be the problem? I don't expect to fix this myself, but I'd love to be able to suggest to a mechanic maybe what the problem is instead of them tinkering around for a couple of very expensive hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I don't know how I forgot to mention this, but there is a hissing coming from my engine. I thought it was from my A/C(which is normal?), but I'm beginning to think it's not. Basically, I can hear a hissing that appears to be coming from within the air vents in the interior. The hissing is particularly loud when idle or braking and goes away completely while doing hard acceleration with it getting more and more quiet with the harder I press the accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T19:17:36.257" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T13:17:47.713" Title="What can cause a vehicle to run hot, but not overheat?" Tags="|pontiac|cooling-system|grand-am|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1011" CreationDate="2011-07-07T20:53:53.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it will be located behind the glove box. Simple and straight forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVwdwtVNvOU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; for clear and detailed informations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T20:53:53.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2011-07-07T21:14:55.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the problem was caused by a blockage in the hose connecting the radiator to the reservoir.  Coolant was not always flowing back into the radiator as the coolant cooled.  The repair shop cleared the blockage, and the temperature remains constant now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T21:14:55.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1311" CreationDate="2011-07-07T22:35:04.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One answer is simply to wait - according to the manual, after 5 hours the immobilizer will reset, and in fact the next morning the car started fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it into a independent Volvo shop today, and was told that the connection on the antenna ring sometimes goes bad, but the ring itself rarely needs to be replaced - taking off the connector and spraying with contact cleaner is all it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T22:35:04.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1490" CreationDate="2011-07-08T03:00:56.347" Score="3" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to get at the XM unit on an '09 GMC Acadia?  I can &lt;strong&gt;see&lt;/strong&gt; the unit.  It's located on the inside of the trunk, above the rear, driver-side tire.  However, there's a large, black piece of plastic covering it.  Any help or links to a detailed manual would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T16:11:42.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T13:38:24.017" Title="Satellite Radio OEM location on an 2009 Acadia" Tags="|audio|installation|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1072" CreationDate="2011-07-08T08:42:48.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get through the license plate hole on the left side of the trunk key and simply press down on the back of the latch mechinsm while holding pressure down on the trunk lid it just might open up for you. &#xA;The lock simply has a small arm that performs the same task. Keep in mind, the key for this lock must be inserted with the smooth side up. The lock will let you insert the key upside down, but wont actually move the mechinism. Feel free to email me if you want some pictures. Roadster@roadrunner.com &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="785" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T08:42:48.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2011-07-09T00:39:34.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Probably obvious, but a thorough cleaning of the car is always in order! Wipe down all surfaces and vacuum the carpets. Be comprehensive, and check for any sources of odor while doing so (spills, stains, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the odor is coming from the carpets or upholstery, an even more thorough steam cleaning of the interior surfaces might be in order. Steam cleaning machines use hot water to lightly soak the surfaces (with some shampoo) then draw it away. It's a lot more work, but it is a better deeper clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a car deodorizer product and follow the recommended instructions on the tin. Note that wildly spraying it on every surface isn't necessarily the way to go; you may need to specifically &lt;strong&gt;treat the internals of the AC and heating systems by spraying into their intakes while they are running&lt;/strong&gt;. Odors can get trapped in the AC and heating systems, too!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your car has a cabin air filter, look at replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the smell &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; persists, you might want to look at a professional cleaning service that specializes in car odor removal.. they can do things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-ozone_shock_treatment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;high ozone shock treatment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T00:39:34.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1339" CreationDate="2011-07-09T07:39:54.330" Score="4" ViewCount="2883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to flush the coolant on a 2005 Ford Falcon (BA Mk2 wagon model, with the 6-cylinder engine), but am having difficulty locating the radiator drain plug.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having difficulty even getting to the underside of the radiator, in fact, as there is a black plastic splash-guard secured to the underside of the front bumper.  The guard was attached with a handful of bolts which were easily removed, plus some clips which slip over the bottom lip of the bumper, which were also easily removed.  It also has a couple of seemingly cheap plastic bolts affixed to it (one on each side) which are now the only things still holding it in place.  These I can't figure out how to remove.  The plastic bolts look vaguely like they might be slotted for a phillips screwdriver, but I tried that and the bolts just spin loosely without coming out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are, how do I remove these two bolts to get the splash-guard off, and once I've gotten the splash-guard off, where is the radiator drain plug/what should I look for in order to find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="788" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T13:56:08.063" Title="Radiator drain plug for Ford Falcon BA Mk2 Wagon" Tags="|ford|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2011-07-09T16:01:01.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a car with three air fresheners in it that made it smell awful (to me).  I bought two Fridge-It® odor absorbers and hung them in different parts of the car, and aired it out as often as possible, and the odor went away.  I also changed the cabin air filter, and the new one had a black coating which I assume is charcoal for odor absorbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T16:01:01.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-09T22:33:37.093" Score="8" ViewCount="10979" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 honda civic ex 4-dr sedan seemed like it was misfiring. I decided to check the spark plugs to see if that was the issue.  I replaced the spark plugs.  The car would turn over however the engine wouldn't fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be an issue with the plugs that I bought, so I put in the old plugs, and it still wouldn't start.  Obviously I have made a mistake somewhere however I can't figure out where.  I was worried about tightening the plugs too far, so they are finger tight with a bit of pressure using a socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only did 1 spark plug at a time so, it's highly unlikely that I got the wires out of order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what I could do before giving up and getting it towed to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:  I tested the spark plugs and wires, and they all spark when held away from the car.  Fuel does get injected into the engine as when I removed a spark plug immediately after turning it over the tip was wet with gasoline.  The engine seemed to almost catch a few times, however only a cylinder or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my concerns is that the spark plug wires seem to loosely connect to the spark plugs.  As if the spark plugs were too low down in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try the starter fluid tomorrow to see if that will get the engine to turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastEditorUserId="791" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T05:31:07.753" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T06:06:43.327" Title="2000 Honda Civic Won't Start after Replacing spark Plugs" Tags="|honda|civic|sparkplugs|ignition|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1336" CreationDate="2011-07-10T00:40:26.733" Score="3" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a major sent of dents on my car recently from a side-collision with another car and have shown them in the pictures below. I managed to apply some primer and paint it myself temporarily but I was just wondering if these dents can be pulled out (at least a few of them if not everything) using a suction cup or some other economical method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was checking out some youtube videos and came to know that some of the techniques are suction cup, hammer-dolly, putty-filler, metal replacement. Door replacement is out of question for me and putty-filler looks like it requires a lot of professional equipment so I am down to two: suction cup and hammer-dolly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an advice please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlD4w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9617/img20110709170351.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73UwB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/69/img20110709170409.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orKnW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/5691/img20110709170427.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="754" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T13:24:56.907" Title="DIY: Can these dents be fixed?" Tags="|honda|body|dent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1345" CreationDate="2011-07-10T04:40:58.767" Score="7" ViewCount="2908" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a modular clutch and why do I have to buy a flywheel when I replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T08:43:01.883" Title="What is a modular clutch?" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2011-07-10T06:18:26.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only an old-time expert bodyman could fix those dents with traditional techniques like hammer and dolly and heat to shrink the metal. However, the amount of skill and experience needed is on the order of master craftsman, not novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern pro would replace the door or re-skin it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, your best bet is to hammer down the high-spots and fill with plastic filler, and sand down. This is your only real option. You can do it with only hand tools and rattle-can paint, and you can actually get professional results if you are meticulous and you use the tools correctly. I'm not saying it's easy, but it's possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T06:18:26.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1347" CreationDate="2011-07-10T08:42:09.480" Score="10" ViewCount="48761" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at Wikipedia's DOT 3 page, it looks like it's been effectively superseded by DOT 4 fluid, but it's still sold and is still recommended on many forums. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/718/what-is-the-difference-between-dot3-and-dot4-brake-fluids&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has an answer saying DOT 4 can be used in DOT 3 systems, but DOT 5 can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If DOT 4 is better, why is DOT 3 still in use? And the real question, which should I use on my bike that calls for DOT 3 (albiet, from 1983).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-09-15T11:23:45.310" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T10:37:15.483" Title="Using DOT4+ in clutch/brakes when DOT3 is recommended?" Tags="|clutch|brake-fluid|dot3|dot4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2011-07-10T13:24:56.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another trick you can try for smaller dents where the metal isn't actually creased, is the heat/cold method - heat the panel with a hair dryer or similar, then quickly cool it with a freezer spray (or a compressed air can held upside-down). The theory is that the sudden shock of the cold will cause the metal to contract and pop back into shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get at the inside of the panel you ought to be able to pop them out with a bodywork hammer - as JCC says you will never get a professional job without years of experience, but you ought to be able to get it close enough to finish off with filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T13:24:56.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1331" CreationDate="2011-07-10T13:56:08.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it doesn't have a radiator drain plug.  To flush the coolant you have to remove the bottom radiator hose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the plastic bolts on the splash guard, if you mangle them enough you can slip the splash-guard off of one of them and then pivot it around the second and out of the way.  I used a flat-head screwdriver to pry one of the bolts slightly out, and then a pair of pliers to strip material off the head of the bolt until it was small enough to just slide the splash-guard off of the remaining stub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="788" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T13:56:08.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1343" CreationDate="2011-07-10T22:13:29.503" Score="15" ViewCount="101852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, after a very hot day, I saw that my coolant was almost reaching 100C/212, I pulled over, stopped and took a look over the hood. The very little water that remained in the coolant tank was all boiling. So, I went to a gas station, bought some water and refilled the tank. When I got home, almost the same problem, the water in the tank was boiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would like to &lt;strong&gt;drive&lt;/strong&gt; the car to the nearest qualified service, but there is a fair distance to it (about 8km) as I'm living in a remote location. Is it safe to &lt;strong&gt;drive&lt;/strong&gt; it that distance if I refill the entire coolant tank?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What can the cause be? I know that is impossible to diagnose a car without seeing it, however, if you have any idea what could the problem be, I would really like to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="793" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T12:00:39.990" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T04:13:32.387" Title="My car's coolant temperature reaches almost 100 C / 212 F in a fast pace" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|coolant|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2011-07-10T23:45:11.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't be losing fluid - did it all boil off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are ending up with low coolant, I would suspect a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the level is okay, I would suspect either a restriction in a pipe or the radiator itself, or possibly a damaged thermostat restricting the flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for a bent or twisted radiator hose or damage to the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing is obvious, I would make sure the coolant level is where it should be then drive slowly to your garage - you did say this only happens at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radiator could have a build up of rust or sludge, so having a garage flush it could be useful, and they can get a full check of the colant circulation path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T23:45:11.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1344" CreationDate="2011-07-11T01:30:34.683" Score="3" ViewCount="3998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Civic that's been overheating, first only at speeds above 65 mph and only after an hour or so of driving, but it's getting progressively worse. It's drivable if I coast with the clutch depressed or in neutral on and off - while coasting the temp at the sensor creeps up, then if I put it back in gear (especially in a lower gear/higher rpms) the gauge quickly drops to normal operating temperature. This leads me to believe the problem is coolant circulation, perhaps blockage or a failing water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along that line of reasoning, I tried revving the engine with the radiator cap removed, and did not get coolant gushing out the top of the radiator, only a slight surge, which suggests to me that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's not blockage in the radiator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump is not producing significant flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my diagnosis seem correct? I've replaced the water pump on a similar Civic before and it's a major pain so I don't want to do that first if it might be something else simpler wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T05:16:32.590" Title="Diagnosing overheating on 92 civic" Tags="|honda|civic|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2011-07-11T01:41:22.130" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to drive the car to the&#xA;  nearest qualified service, but there&#xA;  is a fair distance to it (about 8km)&#xA;  as I'm living in a remote location. Is&#xA;  it safe to drive it that distance if I&#xA;  refill the entire coolant tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say yes, you can drive the car.  Load the car with much more water than you think necessary: I find that two liter soda bottles make excellent transport and pouring vessels for this sort of thing.  While driving, watch your gauge: if you see a high reading, get out and add water to the overflow tank (never open a hot radiator cap).  Repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What can the cause be? I know that is&#xA;  impossible to diagnose a car without&#xA;  seeing it, however, if you have any&#xA;  idea what could the problem be, I&#xA;  would really like to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water is clearly doing what it is supposed to do: carry heat away from the engine.  Unfortunately, something is preventing the heat from leaving the water (e.g., sludge as previously mentioned, fouling in the cooling fins or just impeded airflow) &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; you have a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that your instinct to go straight to a service station is a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you were to choose to try to diagnose this situation yourself (which I'm not recommending if you're not feeling confident), you could try running the car up to temperature, turning it off and listening and looking for a pressure leak (hissing and / or white steam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, never never &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; feel around for a steam leak with your bare hands.  Best case: you'll get a terrible burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following up on that last paragraph to add this lovely quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtospotapsychopath.com/2012/05/27/you-dont-want-to-meet-michael-palin-there/&quot;&gt;Dan&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clouds, and the visible &quot;steam&quot; squirting out of a kettle or a steam&#xA;  locomotive, are liquid water droplets with a ceiling temperature of&#xA;  100°C at sea-level air pressure. It's possible for actual&#xA;  invisible-vapour steam to be swirled in with condensed droplets as it&#xA;  mixes more or less chaotically with the outside air, but &quot;pure&quot; steam&#xA;  is invisible, and has no ceiling temperature. Put your hand in the&#xA;  visible portion of the steam coming out of the side of a locomotive&#xA;  and you may get scalded, but putting your hand in the invisible jet&#xA;  close to where it's exiting may flense the flesh from your bones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key phrase there is &quot;no ceiling temperature.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T12:39:28.393" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T12:39:28.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1342" CreationDate="2011-07-11T08:28:26.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion would be to give the system a good flush, as that can cure no end of maladies. Drain the system fully (check your Haymes Manual for any obscure drain points), then use a hose to flush it through backwards (i.e. the opposite direction to the normal flow) until the water comes out clear. It is usually easier to do rad and engine seperately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of the rad and hoses - if they are original on a 20 year old car they will be worn out by now, the rad will have lost a fair amount of fins and so won't be cooling the water as efficiently as it used to, even if it is still flowing freely. If the hoses are starting to perish then they sill start to flake off bits of rubber into the system which can easily cause a blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the thermostat. New ones are dirt cheap, and they are a common failure point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those help, then yes, you probably have a water pump failure, but try the cheaper, easier things first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T08:28:26.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1335" CreationDate="2011-07-11T10:27:27.123" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to the SRT-4 what I'm reading is the modular clutch is an all-in-one setup.  The pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel are a pre-assembled piece that mounts onto a &quot;flex-plate&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flex-plate is mounted where on most cars the flywheel is (to the crank and teeth on the outer edge for the starter motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this is mainly just an ease of installation, the components are aligned during assembly by the manufacturer instead of during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to have to buy a flywheel if you are looking to replace the modular clutch with a normal aftermarket unit.  You will remove the flex-plate, mount the flywheel in its place, then the disc and cover as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you need to replace the clutch, you shouldn't have to replace the flywheel unless it has been damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information from:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernperformance.com/blog/difference-between-modular-and-nonmodular-clutches-for-srt4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.modernperformance.com/blog/difference-between-modular-and-nonmodular-clutches-for-srt4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.perfectionclutch.com/003_what_is_a_modular_clutch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.perfectionclutch.com/003_what_is_a_modular_clutch.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Response to &quot;By not having a flex plate with an aftermarket clutch, does this give an advantage in reduced rotational inertia ?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a slight weight advantage as you are taking out the flex plate and whatever extra housing there is to make the modular package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, when picking a flywheel, you could go with a lightened one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle, I went with a lightened flywheel.  OEM was 20lbs and the lightened is 11lbs so nearly a 50% reduction in weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the exact numbers, but the manufacturer was claiming something like 30-40 HP is &quot;used&quot; in the effort to spin the stock OEM flywheel on my car and so the weight reduction could &quot;free up&quot; 15-20 HP.  How much of that is marketing fluff, I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine does seem to rev easier now and when rev matching for shifts it is a lot easier to put the revs right where I want them for a smooth transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T19:56:37.167" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T19:56:37.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2011-07-11T10:42:35.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your coolant shouldn't be boiling at 100C/212F if you have a proper mixture of water and anti-freeze (typically 50/50 ratio is recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water's boiling point is 100C/212F.  Even though it is called anti-freeze, it also raises the boiling of the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a coolant mixture tester for a few dollars at a local auto parts store, you suck some of the fluid up into it and it will show what the freezing and boiling points should be (mine is about 270F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still attack the other items listed in the other answers, but it sounds like you are running none or almost no anti-freeze in your system and so getting some in there will allow your cooling system to continue operating at the higher temperature until you get the source of the problem sorted out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T10:42:35.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2011-07-11T10:53:00.440" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference of DOT3 and DOT4 is boiling point of the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DOT3 standard has a lower minimum boiling point requirement then DOT4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all fluids are made equal and they will all typically list what both their Dry and Wet boiling points are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have one DOT3 fluid that just barely makes it past the standard, then another that can handle another 30-40F above that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike calls for DOT3, then any DOT3 should be able to safely handle standard situations.  Going with a higher quality DOT3 or a DOT4 will give you more tolerance though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dry and Wet numbers are due to moisture build up in the brake lines.  When you've first bled and put in new fluid, that fluid is operating in its &quot;Dry&quot; form.  Over time, moisture will get into it which will lower its performance to the &quot;Wet&quot; level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT5 is silicon based and is not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar question although it didn't ask about DOT5, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/718/what-is-the-difference-between-dot3-and-dot4-brake-fluids/1021#1021&quot;&gt;what is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T10:53:00.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2011-07-11T11:52:13.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the other end of the wires to make sure you did not loosen them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your wires could be going bad and moving them around made the problem worse. Would not hurt to replace them as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also it could just be a coincident with the spark plugs, it could be a fuel issue or a problem with your distributor.  Although, this is less likely than the first two items I mentioned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T11:52:13.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2011-07-11T16:51:55.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you have a cranks won't run condition the first step is to see what's missing, fuel or fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First pull a spark plug wire off, stick a thin screwdriver in the end of the wire where the spark plug goes. Hold the side of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from a metal part of the engine, while holding onto the handle (insulating yourself from the spark) have someone crank the engine while you look for spark. If you see spark go to the next step, if not you have a problem in the ignition system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had spark, then take a can of starting fluid and spray short bursts into the intake while turning over the engine. If the vehicle cranks you have a fuel system problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have spark, and the vehicle doesn't run when using the starting fluid you most likely have a mechanical problem examples include timing belt/chain, loss of compression, distributor shaft (if equipped) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know in the comments what you find and I can help you further&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T16:51:55.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:09:26.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you replaced the thermostat and or the coolant temperature sensor. I have had a car which I thought was overheating have a bad coolant temperature sensor and there was actually nothing wrong with it.  If that doesn't fix it I would replace the thermostat which is cheap and easy in most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="797" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:09:26.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:16:39.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hissing might be a vacuum leak, have your mechanic look into that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When car runs hot or gets close to overheating, it is extra taxing on several parts of the engine and cooling system.  There could be gasket that is leaking or a water pump that is close to failing, or you could just have a bad thermostat, but it sounds like the problem might be worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting it looked at soon, as running it hot might cause more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T19:16:39.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1354" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:40:23.013" Score="10" ViewCount="63698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this weird misconception that the engine size is related to the amount of fuel being burned in one cycle(4-stroke engine). I know this is stupid but how does engine size relate to the amount of fuel being burned in one cycle. For example I drive a Ford Ka with a:&#xA;1.3i Endura-E engine OHV 1.3 L I4. So I thought that in one cycle 1.3L of fuel is burned, but this is not the case so can someone please explain how they are related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T10:07:15.593" Title="Engine Size and Fuel Consumption" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1356" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:46:58.810" Score="4" ViewCount="3350" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened twice last summer, and twice this summer.  On very hot days ~90F, only after my car has been sitting in the sun all day (so, right after work), it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I thought it could be a dead battery (which makes no sense, because lights, radio, fan all worked), so I got a jump, which didn't work (of course).  I left the hood up -- and after 15 minutes or so, it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second, third, and fourth time, I just lifted the hood, and after 15 minutes or so, it started.  I did this thinking that keeping the hood up perhaps helped it cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it starts, it just keeps starting -- the very first time, I just drove right to my mechanic, but he couldn't make it happen, and he didn't know what was wrong -- they kept it overnight, but didn't find anything wrong -- I only got the heat clue later when it happened again on a hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am taking it in soon for other repairs, so any ideas of what to suggest would be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T02:22:47.187" Title="Intermittent start on hot days with 1992 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|starting|heat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1352" CreationDate="2011-07-11T20:07:12.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regular driving the Air/Fuel ratio is kept constant at 14.7:1. So if a larger engine needs more air (more swept volume) per cycle then yes it will require more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question boils down to which engine has more friction per cycle, and which car has more weight to carry around. The friction is measured in &lt;a href=&quot;http://hpwizard.com/fmep.html&quot;&gt;FMEP&lt;/a&gt; (friction mean effective pressure) which gives you the pressure required in the pistons to keep the engine spinning at a constant rate. FMEP times volume = Power per cycle needed to fight friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most of the mechanical losses come from the friction between the piston and the bore. The more pistons you have (V6 vs. I4) the more friction you will have. Note that the #of camshafts, #of valves and #of journal bearings also affect friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:07:12.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1352" CreationDate="2011-07-11T20:36:19.580" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more complicated than a simple ratio.  I present as evidence &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKTOyiKLARk&quot;&gt;exhibit A&lt;/a&gt;: the comparison between the BMW M3 and the Toyota Prius on the Top Gear test track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the Prius was driven at its top (not very high) speed and the M3 remained right behind it for ten laps.  The resulting fuel economy results were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17.2 mpg Prius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;19.4 mpg M3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the comparison between a 1.5 liter 4 cylinder vs. a 4 liter V8 and the bigger engine was significantly &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The money quote from Jeremy Clarkson was &quot;It isn't what you drive that matters, it's how you drive it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if you're trying to compare efficiency between two engines, size is not the deciding factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:36:19.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2011-07-12T03:25:06.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So when your car doesn't start, what happens?  does the engine turn over? or you just get some clicking but nothing else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine does turn over, but doesn't get going, then it could be the injectors.  This is just a guess, but its easily verifiable. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to your car (or suggest this to your mechanic), let it run, then stop the engine and monitor the gauge.  Is there a slight pressure drop that occurs over time (few hours)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had 89 integra with a very similar problem.  If you just stop the car it would start fine. If it sits for few days, it would start fine.  But if it sat for 6-8 hours, especially on a hot day for whatever reason, it would be very difficult to start it.  The cause (based on everything I researched), leaky injectors which over time would flood the cylinders with liquid gas making difficult to start them.  After day or so, the gas would leak past the rings into the oil pan, that's why it would start after sitting a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying another set of fuel injectors from a junk yard ($7/per).  Mailed those in to have them professionally cleaned and calibrated.  Swapped them in for the ones that were in there and that problem never came back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T03:25:06.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2011-07-12T17:52:51.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if it runs hotter during slower speeds (the 25mph-50mph you mention), I would think this is a sign that you're not getting enough airflow through the radiator. This might be a fan issues, but it might also be some other obstruction that prevents sufficient airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you hit a deer and had the radiator replaced as a result. I would check or get someone to check both for a vacuum leak (the hissing might indicate a vacuum leak although it shouldn't go away if you rev the engine harder unless it's a turbo- or supercharged car) and also check if all the ducting to the radiator (if your Grand Am has some, I would expect it to) and the undertray under the engine is present. If they've been damaged and haven't been replaced, this can mess up the airflow in interesting ways and can easily contribute to less airflow through the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you live in a desert climate like I do, I wouldn't expect the sort of coolant loss you describe - it's quite a lot and evaporation of coolant were a problem we'd all be constantly filling up coolant :). In fact I'd worry about that even in the climate I live in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with getting the ducting checked out and the cooling system pressure tested - every decent shop has the kit for the latter and if it doesn't hold pressure for a reasonable amount, you've got a leak somewhere and need to get that fixed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Given that you mention that the radiator was replaced with a used one, there is a chance that it might be partially blocked or at least not flow as well as it should. Flushing out the blockages depend how bad they are - you might be able to flush it out with the right sort of chemicals but there's no guarantee. The easiest way to find out if the radiator is suffering from blockages is to warm up the car properly until the radiator hoses get hot and then see if there are areas of the radiator that remain cold. &lt;em&gt;Don't&lt;/em&gt; touch the radiator for that, either hover the palm of your hand half an inch over the surface or use an infrared thermometer. If there are blockages you should notice a difference in temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are that if the blockages are severe enough to affect the running temperature, it's time for a new radiator. Get a new one from a reputable shop this time, it's a lot cheaper than having to fix a head gasket that blew because the engine overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T01:40:55.043" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:40:55.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1359" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:37:20.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1653" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking at to diagnose my Ford Ranger which surges when stopped? This typically only happens while the vehicle is warming up.  After that, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T22:08:05.793" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T22:08:05.793" Title="1998 Ford Ranger surges when idling" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2011-07-12T19:05:06.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control (IAC) motor passages with carburetor or throttle body cleaner. They get a black buildup on the edge of the throttle plate and IAC passages that interferes with the idle speed regulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T19:05:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1363" CreationDate="2011-07-12T20:13:30.520" Score="9" ViewCount="30509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a few of the questions here just to learn a bit more about cars out of curiosity and one thing I see quite a bit is the word &quot;surging&quot; I searched and I'm not seeing any straight and clear definition of what surging is and how to tell when a car is surging? Can someone explain this to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T09:36:58.880" Title="What is surging?" Tags="|surging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1362" CreationDate="2011-07-12T22:18:29.770" Score="4" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a few days back that the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;upper portion&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of my driver side back wheel has got rust. I took a sand paper and started cleaning it hoping to remove the rust and apply primer-paint on it but as I started sanding it, it got worse - something started coming off! I am not sure if this was the metal or the paint so I sprayed it with some primer and applied some spray paint. I should have taken the picture before spraying it but I panicked! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was checking online to see how to fix this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kbs-coatings.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rust Stop Paint&lt;/a&gt;. It says I need to sand the rust off but when do I know how to stop sanding? When I kept sanding, I thought the metal was just falling down in pieces. The more I was sanding it, the more it kept falling down so I stopped after a while thinking that I would destroy it completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am seeing two products, one called the Rust Paint and the other called the Bondo Putty and am not sure which one to use for this purpose. Would anyone have some advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50Iru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3faW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDri8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="754" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:04:22.777" Title="How much do I need to sand before proceeding?" Tags="|honda|rust|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2011-07-13T01:04:22.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks pretty bad - typically when I've seen ones get this corroded, they need to be sandblasted clear of rust, properly filled and then repainted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to keep sanding until all the rust is gone - if that leaves holes, you're better off knowing about them rather than having them hidden under rust. If the holes are too big, you can always weld a patch on the inside then fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:04:22.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2011-07-13T01:47:38.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surging is when the engine revs change noticeably under constant load and constant throttle (which in theory should result in constant RPM). A very typical one is my Eagle Talon, that had a vacuum leak and at idle the revs would vary between 500 and 1500 rpm as the ECU was trying to control the idle, but didn't know about the additional air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another typical one is that if you have either multiple carburetors or multiple throttle bodies on an engine and they are out of sync so one of the cylinders gets a little more air than the other one(s). You can feel it as if the car was accelerating and decelerating a little as you go down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:47:38.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1358" CreationDate="2011-07-13T01:50:41.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Larry said, check the throttle body and the IAC, but I'd also check for vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:50:41.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1279" CreationDate="2011-07-13T01:57:33.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic material is often one that doesn't bond (ABS, I think) that well with fiberglass (I assume you mean fiberglass, plexiglass doesn't make much sense as it's a transparent and not very flexible plastic) and you have to be very careful how many layers of FG you put on as most mudguards are running pretty close to the wheel. If you factor in the expansion of the tire at high speeds you probably don't have much space to play with. Oh, and don't forget that fibreglass will stiffen the mudguard, making it even more prone to breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I'd hit ebay for a used mudguard in reasonable shape and get your friend to paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:57:33.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1369" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:24:30.780" Score="3" ViewCount="8929" Body="&lt;p&gt;As my title say I want to know if my current car that I just purchased has an ODB-II port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked under the steering wheel and I can see what I think to be a OBD-II connector, but am unsure. Does any one know where I can find out if it is or not and what protocols it uses. I know OBD-II was compulsory after 1996.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to purchase some parts to work into an Arduino project, just don't want to waste money if there not needed. Really after speed and RPM info fuel would be nice, but its an old carby so I'm pretty sure there is no electric fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="802" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T07:33:55.137" Title="How can I check if my 1995 Lancer CC GI has OBD-II" Tags="|tools|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1366" CreationDate="2011-07-13T12:13:36.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about where you are, but around here, one can borrow an OBD-II reader from most auto parts stores.  You could borrow one and give it a try to see if it can connect...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May not have full functionality even if it does connect though.  My '95 Eclipse has the OBD-II connector and ECU, but it's not 100% compliant (also, I've been told that there were recalls for certain OBD-II bugs for 2nd generation DSMs, but that the recall is only valid for '96-'99 despite the bugs being in the '95 ECU as well).  OBD-II didn't become mandatory here until '96, appears that '95 model year cars had a beta/field-test version of it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T12:13:36.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1366" CreationDate="2011-07-13T12:54:39.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the ALDL connector if you have this on it's OBD II&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpOFd.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have something differant like the one below, it' not OBD II&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8ceD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T12:54:39.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1372" CreationDate="2011-07-13T16:17:08.940" Score="2" ViewCount="1807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering a turbo car. The specific model is a Dodge Caliber SRT 2008, but I'd prefer a more generic answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can one prevent the car from boosting while still having a car that can be driven around (on vacuum)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process should be reversible to make the car boost again. Ideally, this could be done at will without too much electronic gadget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T13:32:36.147" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T14:00:47.907" Title="How to prevent a car from boosting?" Tags="|engine|dodge|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:36:23.607" Score="5" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I purchased 4 new tires with installation for my 2003 Ford Focus with almost 200,000 miles on it (original aluminium wheels).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I got my car from the tire place, I noticed one of the tires was leaking air so I had them take care of it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A week later, I drove to work (62 mile commute) and when I got in the parking lot, a different tire was flat and losing air fast.  I could drive on it, but I needed to fill it up twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next day I had the bad tire swapped (at a different place) with a good extra one I had saved in my trunk from when I got the new tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't witness the people taking my tire off get it off, I just expected them to 'reseat' it like the original place did with the first bad tire.  But, when they showed me the tire there was a 4 inch by 0.5 inch strip of rubber from the rim sitting inside the tire. (a part would have normally been sitting right next to the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They told me that this was a mounting issue and I had 'high performance tires' (I didn't realize this) that weren't all that easy to mount.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is because when I took it back to the original tire place and demanded that they replace my tire and refund the cost of putting the old one on, they told me that the place who changed my tire was probably at fault for having ruined the tire.  I don't buy that in the least, but I kind of think that driving on the tire, as it lost air, for a week may have ruined it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is, is there anyway to know if the tire was damaged when they attached the tire or if it became damaged (due to being improperly seated) during the week that I drove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A strange thing I noticed about the way the original place mounted my tires is that they seemed pretty far back on the rims.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:54:20.223" Title="What happened to my tire between the time I got it and the time I found it deflated?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1370" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:37:52.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't prevent the turbo from spooling up without physically removing it from the car. Depending on how the boost is controlled (ie, if there is a manual or electronic boost controller involved, too, or if it's just standard boost control by the ECU) you might be able to turn down the maximum boost to the pressure controlled by the spring in the wastegate if so equipped. That would reduce the maximum available performance somewhat at least but wouldn't prevent the engine from hitting boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even be able to rig the wastegate to be open all the time so it'll stop boost from building but that might well irritate the ECU to the point of a check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, if you don't trust the person who is supposedly borrowing your car, I wouldn't look for a technical solution but simply not let them drive the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:37:52.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1371" CreationDate="2011-07-13T17:54:20.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will cause damage by driving on a poorly inflated tyre but not that much. If you drive on one that is completely flat your rim could slice through bits of rubber if it runs over part of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does sound from your description that they original installer didn't do a good job. The tyre rim needs to sit securely against the wheel rim, with no bumps or warps; sealant should be used throughout and inflation should be checked to ensure well seated thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have wide low profile performance tyres and I agree they are definitely harder to fit but any reputable garage should cope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T17:54:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-13T18:20:51.750" Score="3" ViewCount="3729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car in for a service. Upon receiving it back I have to push the clutch in to it's absolute max before shifting gears. It wasn't like this before. If I can describe in terms of percentages it was as follow. The first 30% was freeplay. From 30 to 85 was actual clutch. The last 15% was freeplay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can this be adjusted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T18:34:20.617" Title="Adjust clutch on toyota tazz..." Tags="|toyota|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2011-07-13T18:34:20.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a clutch cable there is a nut to adjust where the cable mounts to the transmission. If you have hydraulic clutch there is not an adjustment, check your fluid level, low fluid could cause this, but this indicates an additional problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T18:34:20.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1370" CreationDate="2011-07-13T23:31:51.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any boost controller (manual or electronic) would allow you to turn down the boost. I have a DiabloSport unit and I can go way down almost to the point where the car is atmospheric (max. boost under 3 psi). When ready to restore it, flash back the original tune map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="378" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T23:31:51.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1366" CreationDate="2011-07-14T02:23:15.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a website/project called the OBD Clearinghouse run by Weber State University - it's the authoritative database of vehicle OBD compatibility information (at least for vehicles sold in the US).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/index.php?body=oemdb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/index.php?body=oemdb&lt;/a&gt; - the OEM DB has a database of vehicles by manufacturer, model and year that lists the location of the connector, the pinout, and the communication protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lancer is only listed from 2002 up, though this seems like it may be an error, as all cars sold in the US were required to have OBD in 1996 (as you said) and I'm pretty sure most manufacturers made it global at that point, at least for anything close to a US model, since most of the work would be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I could be of more help, but aside from just borrowing a scantool like Brian suggested, I think your best bet might be finding an Australian mitsubishi forum and asking there... or maybe ask your local mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="530" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T02:23:15.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-14T02:37:48.417" Score="5" ViewCount="6857" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville SSE (3.8L GM 3800-II, non-supercharged). It ran low on coolant a few weeks ago, and started to overheat. I refilled with coolant, but the next time I was in the car, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge (which, according to the shop manual, should read around 60 PSI) has been hanging around 80 PSI, often increasing to 100 or higher (gauge goes to 120 PSI) and sometimes dipping down to 40 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge movement seems somewhat random to me. It will stay around 80 for a while, then fairly quickly climb up to 100+, sometimes hang there for a while, sometimes just drop back down to 80. It also seems to bob up and down quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I've heard that the oil pressure senders in these cars are known to go bad, but I've got less than 500 miles on this oil, and would rather not have to change again so soon, especially since I run Mobil1 fully synthetic in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a mechanical cause (or anything other than a bad oil pressure sender) that would cause these erratic oil pressure changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="530" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:42:32.280" Title="High / fluctuating oil pressure causes?" Tags="|oil|pontiac|bonneville|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-14T14:47:02.133" Score="5" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the significance of a flashing CEL, vs. a steady one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently read and cleared the codes on my 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII.  After driving it for awhile, the CEL came back on.  During that trip, it remained on and steady the entire time.  In the next trip, the car started with the CEL on solid.  A bit of a way down the road though, the CEL began to flash.  It would flash for awhile, then be steady for awhile.  There seemed to be no real consistency with the duration of either behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'd pulled the codes, here's what I'd found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;P1537 - Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Open, Bank 1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;P0304 - Misfire, Cylinder 4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;P0174 - System Too Lean, Bank 2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what would be causing the CEL to flash occasionally, as opposed to just staying steady?  Is this behavior something unique between makes and models, or is it generally standard across all OBD II systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T16:05:37.017" Title="Difference between steady and flashing CEL?" Tags="|cel|lincoln|mark-viii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1378" CreationDate="2011-07-14T16:01:50.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @jzd commented, oil pressure should change with engine load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At idle, your oil pressure is at its lowest, when accelerating it will be at its highest and cruising it should steady out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ambient temperatures effect oil pressure depending on the weight of oil you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an explanation I gave a club member on our forum of a similar question&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zcluboftexas.org/zcotforum/index.php?topic=176.msg862#msg862&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://zcluboftexas.org/zcotforum/index.php?topic=176.msg862#msg862&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I first bought my Z31 on the drive home I had a &quot;freak out&quot;&#xA;  moment when I got off of the freeway and was sitting at a red light,&#xA;  looked down and saw my oil pressure gauge sitting at 1 notch from the&#xA;  bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was used to all my previous cars' gauges staying at the same levels&#xA;  once warmed up, not fluctuating like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I quickly pulled over, cooled it down, checked the oil, sat there&#xA;  thinking &quot;crap what do I do&quot; heh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I started paging through the manual and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The pressure is normal if the gauge remains within the range of from&#xA;  2nd to 12th lights corresponding to the engine rpm&quot;  (it says lights&#xA;  because I have a digital dash, on an analog it would be between the&#xA;  low and high range marks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So based on my experience with my Z31 and what Ed said, lower pressure&#xA;  on the gauge is fine at idle (just not too low, the needle shouldn't&#xA;  be sitting all the way at the bottom probably).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depending on ambient and engine temperatures and what weight oil your&#xA;  using, your pressure will be slightly different on throttle, but&#xA;  should be somewhere in the middle I would suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, my normal pressure moved up 1-2 notches when I moved from&#xA;  20w40 to 20w50 last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Z31s are the only sports car I've ever owned, but my assumption is&#xA;  this is one of the differences between owning a &quot;sporty car&quot; and a&#xA;  &quot;sports car&quot;, your readouts are more informative because you are&#xA;  expected to be pushing the car in more extreme situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T16:01:50.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1380" CreationDate="2011-07-14T16:05:37.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flashing check engine light means you may be doing damage to the catalytic converter if you continue to drive the vehicle. If the misfire is bad enough too much raw fuel is going into the exhaust, enough to do damage to the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it's required on OBD II, but several manufactures flash the light for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T16:05:37.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1386" CreationDate="2011-07-16T00:40:47.130" Score="6" ViewCount="8311" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Honda Civic has what I can only describe as a &quot;rough ride&quot; in the front wheels.  When I put my foot on the brake pedal (not pressing on it), there's a roughness there I can feel.  It's less at lower speeds and increases at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just spent $1400+ today at the Honda dealership.  They replaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both front struts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front lower control arm compliance bushings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motor mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both outer sway bar end links&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride is still the same.  So I'm wondering if these repairs should have fixed the ride or if the roughness I feel in the ride and on the brake pedal is due to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="808" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T13:19:03.577" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T02:47:41.940" Title="2001 Honda Civic: rough ride, even after new struts" Tags="|honda|civic|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1393" CreationDate="2011-07-16T05:28:23.570" Score="15" ViewCount="120264" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo S40 (06) would not start when I turned the ignition key. I got a message that was somewhat like &quot;Key Error, please try again&quot;. I tried with both my keys so it wasn't the key itself. I think I could hear some relay clicking in the on position. I had the same error about a week earlier but then it worked after a few tries and I didn't think more of it, but this time it would not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the Volvo assistance and the guy they sent put the key into the ignition, turned it fully on and hit it relatively hard about ten times with the handle of a screwdriver, then he turned it to the off position and repeated the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car then started. He said that he had fixed this problem on a few Volvos and they seemed to continue working after this, but he could not guarantee anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a mechanic (obviously) so I wonder if someone knows what this error could be. Is it just oxidized connectors or is it a symptom of some bigger problem? What can I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T19:34:55.797" Title="Couldn't start my Volvo due to Key Error. Called assistance and he fixed it by hitting the key with a screwdriver. What could be the error?" Tags="|volvo|key|ignition|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2011-07-16T08:32:38.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip.  The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of it or trying to circumvent the physical portion of the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were the precursor to the keyless ignitions that are found on more and more cars these days where you don't even have to put the key in, just have it in your pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the transmitter/receiver is in the steering column as the key would be in the ignition when it is trying to read it and hitting the key in the ignition caused enough vibration to jossle the transmitter/receiver.  Volvo may have had a manufacturing issue on that model of a weak soldering joint or similar causing an intermittent issue to develop over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T08:32:38.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1383" CreationDate="2011-07-16T09:10:14.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally strut failure makes it to where they are ineffective in dampening the movement of the vehicle on the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't cause a &quot;rough&quot; ride but in fact the opposite making it very soft and wavy.  Where you'd hit a bump and the car would bounce multiple times as it settles back down on the springs.  The strut reduces that movement allowing the suspension to move to absorb the initial impact without continuing to bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential for the strut to cause a rough ride would be if it had seized instead of losing its pressure.  If the shock seized to the point where it won't move at all or takes a lot of force to do so, then it would cause it to carry more of the road imperfections to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad bushing will allow the component to move more.  This can have multiple effects depending on how the component fits.  It may allow for a metal on metal contact, which can transfer a lot of vibration.  On the other hand, it can move around more and not send as much through as it isn't held in place. A new OEM bushing or an aftermarket polyurethane can make you feel the bumps slightly more, but is an acceptable trade off for the improved handling and driver feedback. When you go to turn the vehicle, with bad bushings fractions of seconds are lost making the &quot;turn in&quot; of the car happen later as the components shift in place before they stiffen and then push the car instead of moving themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the feeling is there all the time and doesn't seem to be directly related to road conditions, there might be a wheel out of balance (circular balance, where the weight around the circumference of the wheel isn't even), a flat spot on a tire (can be caused from a hard braking event or sitting for an extended period of time not in use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also need a front end alignment, especially if they didn't do one after taking apart the control arms for the bushings.  If your toe or camber are far enough out, it could be causing a noticeable effect.  If you don't hold onto the steering wheel on smooth pavement, does the car track straight or shift to the left or right?  That is one sign of misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've used any of that spray fix-a-flat products, I've heard of people having bad vibrations after the use of those as you are spraying material inside of your tire with no way of getting it in there evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately many things can be the cause of a &quot;rough&quot; ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T09:10:14.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1279" CreationDate="2011-07-16T11:30:14.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look at plastic welding: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8rTwWRYb0c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8rTwWRYb0c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just a crack in the mudguard with nothing missing, this may well work well and is probably worth trying before hitting eBay (which is what I'd do next)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="810" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T11:30:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1132" CreationDate="2011-07-16T11:43:38.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get the tank up and take a very good look around for the leak. Does it only leak when running? That may give you a clue as to whether it's tank or carb related. &#xA;The chances are that it'll have a vacuum activated petcock as Jack M. mentions above. They can stick open and allow fuel to flow all the time into the carbs, whcih then overflow into the crankcase.&#xA;You can open up the oil check port and sniff to see if that smells heavily of petrol, that would indicate that the carbs are leaking the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick to try it to get the tank off and wrap a little rag or paper towel around each joint in the fuel system and then leave it for a bit. Then go back and inspect the towel for petrol. the towel should be soaked if there's petrol leaking. (I also do the same trick when working on any home plumbing to make vey sure I've not left a slow leak in any joints)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="810" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T11:43:38.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-16T19:07:17.577" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1240/how-to-begin-learning-engine-tuning&quot;&gt;How to begin learning engine tuning?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad has an old Mazda that has been sitting in the garage for a long time.  He probably hasn't even started it in over 10 years.  I've been thinking about starting the project of repairing it for two reasons.  One I want to drive the car and two I want to learn more about auto repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I don't know where to even start.  Pretty much the only thing I've ever done to my car is change the oil, so I know next to nothing about car repair.  I'm not expecting to be able to go from a broken car to a working one in a weekend and I figured the old car would be a good place to do some trial and error, since its not being driven anyways.  But before I start tearing it apart and attempting to replace things I would like to have some basic information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do you get a basic set of car repair knowledge.  Is there a book or website you recommend?  I don't expect to become a master mechanic after reading a book but it would help to know what roles the different parts play and some common diagnostic techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="812" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T01:26:33.950" Title="Getting Started in Auto Repair" Tags="|troubleshooting|restoration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-07-16T21:31:35.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-16T22:17:33.813" Score="2" ViewCount="4404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for used cars at the moment, and have been considering some models from Toyota and Honda, as well as an older Mercedes Benz. Many of the cars I've seen so far have been at dealers, i.e. trade-ins. None of them have any service records with the cars. The Honda and Toyota dealers all said that unless the work was done at their dealership, they couldn't help. The Mercedes dealer said they could only help if the work was done at their dealership AND in the last two years, after which it's &quot;archived&quot; (I guess that's the MB way of saying &quot;thrown out&quot; as the woman told me there's no way to retrieve archived records).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last two vehicles were Fords, both relatively new. I know Ford doesn't make it overly public, but the OASIS computer system (Ford's warranty service network) can pull up warranty service records for any Ford vehicle serviced at any Ford dealer in the country, and usually contains every time a mechanic or technician touched the vehicle. When I bought my two used Fords, I just asked my service guy, and he gave me a printout of every dealer service and oil change for the life of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Ford really so much more organized (at a national level) than the other brands, or do they all have something like OASIS but they just won't tell me about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="530" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T04:00:35.037" Title="Dealer service records from Toyota, Honda, Mercedes Benz - don't exist?" Tags="|service|dealer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2011-07-16T22:22:01.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively technical, and I've been thinking about writing something like this for a while, as a (free) web-based app. With smartphone apps too. I did a simple web-based fuel log/MPG calculator for myself a while ago, but never polished it up enough to let others use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't make any promises, but I guess I'll follow this thread... give me an up-vote or a comment, and when I get some free time, I'll start working on it... my thought was a simple web app to track maintenance done, scheduled maintenance (with reminders, but you'd probably need to input it for your vehicle), and a fuel log/MPG calculation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else out there (preferably with PHP/Ajax experience) would be willing to help, understanding that this wouldn't be a for-profit service but just something to help people out, and maybe generate enough ad revenue to support the site, feel free to contact me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="530" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T22:22:01.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2011-07-17T16:49:20.190" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1311/volvo-wont-start-immobilizer-see-manual&quot;&gt;similar problem&lt;/a&gt; where I got intermittent &quot;Immobilizer&quot; messages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my mechanic (20+ years of Volvo experience) the connector between the antenna ring and the wiring harness sometimes causes problems - taking it off, spraying it with contact cleaner, and re-seating it fixes these.  It could be that the vibrations from hitting the key were enough to overcome the resistance and allow the key to be recognized &amp;amp; the car started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a relatively simple job to get to and clean the connector, which might be good preventative maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities:  You could have a bad relay.  There's a fusebox under the hood, and one of the relays (R13) is for the starter.  You should be able to remove the relay, and jumper the connection to determine whether or not the relay is the problem.  You can get the wiring diagram for the car &lt;a href=&quot;https://cardiagn.com/2006-volvo-s40-04-v50-wiring-diagram-tp-3990202-pdf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you could have an intermittent connection to the starter, or a bad starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-02-28T19:34:55.797" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T19:34:55.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-17T20:51:49.037" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1389/getting-started-in-auto-repair&quot;&gt;Getting Started in Auto Repair&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some teach yourself sources for auto repair.  I'd like to start restoring an old car in my dad's garage, but I don't have the knowledge to start.  I've read some of the other posts about restoring a vehicle that hasn't been used in a long time, but they don't really help without the knowledge of how you go about identifying and replacing the parts mentioned in the posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for books, websites, videos, etc that would give me a good foundation in auto repair.  Obviously there is no substitute for real experience, but thats why I intend to practice on the car in my dad's garage.  I just want to have some basic book knowledge before I go and get my hands dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="812" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T01:25:02.000" Title="How to Get Basic Car Repair Knowledege" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-07-17T23:48:32.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1383" CreationDate="2011-07-17T23:28:13.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;when you describe &quot;rough ride&quot; most people associate that with stiffer than normal suspension and uneven road conditions making their way all the way from the wheel to your butt. In other words, any unevenness in the road makes it uncomfortable or difficult to drive. Reading your post, sounds like that's not your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a constant vibration coming from the front-end, another potential cause that wasn't mentioned so far, is the wheel bearings. Next time you are driving, put your foot on the brake pedal like you've been doing and when you feel the vibration, turn the steering wheel slightly left, then slightly right.  See if the vibration changes and/or goes away completely when you turn one way or the other. If that's the case, I'd suspect a wheel bearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had something similar which was caused by one of the steel belts inside the tire breaking causing the tire to not be round, which goes back to a defective tire that was mentioned by ManiacZX.  To see if it could be the wheels, try rotating front and back tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T23:28:13.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2011-07-18T01:50:09.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They all have their own computer system that keep track of the maintenance made at the dealer. I have a Toyota and with my VIN number they are able to track down any events (repair, recall, etc...) that happened at a Toyota Dealer. Obviously they cannot tell anything outside their dealers network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the Ford's OASIS system is shared with any authorized mechanics outside the Ford dealership network and that why you get event that info. But I'm pretty sure that any car maker keep track of the work done at their dealership, at least for the warranties/legal side of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T01:50:09.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T09:51:39.630" Score="-2" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines are more complex than their petrol counterparts. What are the basic diesel engines maintenance must-dos? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="703" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T12:36:00.370" Title="Diesel engines maintenance" Tags="|maintenance|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-07-24T18:48:01.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3472" CreationDate="2011-07-18T12:40:23.383" Score="4" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a little about DPFs and biodiesel. Some claim that there's a reduction in lubricity and/or viscosity of engine oil when using B30 or above. They warn about increased engine wear because of it. Apparently, some companies (e.g. Peugeot) cite the DPF as the reason for not supporting B30 and above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how bad is it really? Did anyone here encounter any problems caused by the use of biodiesel in cars with DPF? More importantly, to what degree is this a real problem and how can this problem be mitigated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T18:28:08.203" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T20:35:50.653" Title="Biodiesel and DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter)" Tags="|diesel|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T14:58:59.583" Score="4" ViewCount="5638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla Verso 2.0 D4D (UK model). The clutch does not disengage fully with clutch pedal fully pressed. This is a hydraulic clutch. When in gear and brake is released with clutch pedal fully pressed it will creep forward very slowly. The main issue is difficulty changing gears when stationary or downshifting.&#xA;There is no loss of fluid (this car uses the brake fluid reservoir) or visible leakage. The clutch pedal feels firm all the way to the floor.&#xA;Is there or any further diagnosis I can do? Or do I have to disassemble the master and slave cylinder next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="819" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:15:50.663" Title="hydraulic clutch fails to fully disengage" Tags="|toyota|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T15:01:12.757" Score="2" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago the car would start in the morning but not start in the afternoon.  The next time it started I drove it straight to the Honda near my work.  They told me the 12volt battery had a bad cell and the hybrid software needed updating.  After $200 I picked it up.  On the drive home the 'engine malfunction' and IMA (hybrid) lights went on and I went back to the Honda dealer near my home (same owner as other Honda).  They said the hybrid software needed updating and that the IMA battery may need replacing if the IMA light came on again.  The problem is the IMA battery is $3,000+.  I drove the car without problem for a few days and now it won't start.  I'm pretty much where everything started.  Key on dashboard is blinking which user manual says means it is in 'anti-theft' mode.  Seems like it is in anti-theft mode because it won't let me put the car in neutral even with the key turned and the brake pedal depressed.  I need to get the car in neutral before I can get it towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody heard of this car or other hybrid having this problem?  Do I need a new IMA battery?  How can I get the car in neutral so I can get it towed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dan finucane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user817" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T20:57:08.867" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T15:32:41.183" Title="2005 Honda Accord Hybrid Won't Start Or Go In Neutral" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1156" CreationDate="2011-07-18T15:17:25.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes but as of present there are no US based tuners that provide a DPF delete kit or engine tuning (reprogramming) to allow the safe removal of this device.  They exist overseas in the UK and Europe but I would hold off until someone in the US provides a product specific to the US car.  Also the US spec 335d uses a DEF (diesel exhaust fluid, adblue, urea injection whatever you want to call it) system that will likely have to be disabled and removed through a reprogramming and since to my knowledge ONLY the US-spec cars use DEF the coding does not yet exist.  Check out this thread...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9597657#post9597657&quot;&gt;http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9597657#post9597657&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T15:17:25.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1405" CreationDate="2011-07-18T16:12:04.617" Score="5" ViewCount="6068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda CRV where the power windows are slow to roll up, and usually need manual assistance to fully close.  When rolling up the windows (front DS, front PS), they start up slow and usually quit about halfway up.  Pulling them or pushing them up while holding the button, gets them over the hump and they then roll up the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible causes of this?  What is required to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:05:07.377" Title="Slow rolling power windows" Tags="|honda|power-windows|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1404" CreationDate="2011-07-18T16:42:07.280" Score="3" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Honda Civic needs a new muffler every two (2) years or so, because the inlet pipe corrodes just after the union.  Is this a common problem, or would installing a better quality muffler prevent this?  Aren't most exhaust system components stainless steel, how is it that it corrodes so quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="511" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T19:00:10.513" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T19:00:10.513" Title="Muffler inlet corrosion problem" Tags="|honda|civic|exhaust|rust|muffler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1403" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:08:38.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is merely corrosion resistant, not corrosion proof, and some are better than others.  My 1991 Toyota with 251,000 miles (including daily driving in the rust belt Winters) is still on its original exhaust (getting rusty, but no leaks/holes).  My 1995 Mitsubishi with only 116,000 miles, rarely Winter driven is already on its third.  This time around I spent more money and had a nice custom one fabricated out of higher quality materials...  I thought the first replacement exhaust was a good one, but it rusted out in only 9 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:08:38.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1402" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:10:31.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the power window motors are dying.  It's actually a fairly rare situation though, usually switches fail first.  Might be worth pulling the switches and checking/cleaning them just to make sure you're not actually having some sort of weird intermittent switch connection that's making the motor appear to be weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:10:31.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1399" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:15:50.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a master cylinder leak by checking the firewall behind/underneath the clutch pedal for fluid.  You can start having disengagement issues with leaks small enough that the fluid loss won't be noticeable.  Repairing them is typically not done anymore, take it in and swap for a fresh factory unit.  Not sure where the slave cylinder is on that model, but you should check that too if you can.  While I've seen a number of master cylinder failures, I've yet to ever see a slave cylinder failure on the cars I've looked at.  A very rare possibility is that just bleeding the fluid will help (I have seen a car where someone overheated the clutch to the point that the fluid in the nearby hydraulics boiled!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:15:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1403" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:25:09.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the OEM muffler for the Honda Civic is only aluminized steel, not stainless steel.  As such, it doesn't even have the higher resistance to rust that a stainless part will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted previously, a stainless part is only resistant to corrosion, not immune (nothing really is).  If you choose to go with an aftermarket stainless part, you can visually inspect the connecting flange and welds.  You want to see a nice thick piece of metal with solid welds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to purchase a stainless replacement and use that for as many years as possible.  I hate the sound that a progressively degrading muffler makes over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your purchasing preferences may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T18:25:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1409" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:43:58.953" Score="3" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Honda CRV, when lock button is pressed rear PS door lock sounds like a machine gun (ra-ta-ta-tat) and door remains unlocked. Door cannot be manually locked either, what could be causing this?  Is it likely to be the actuator gone bad, or just a mechanical jam up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T06:33:42.090" Title="Automatic lock not working" Tags="|honda|locks|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1408" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:59:55.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cannot manually lock the door, the power locks will not work because all it does is move the mechanical linkage. This sounds like the linkage or latch (the lock mechanism is in the latch) is binding on something. Take the door panel off and inspect the linkage and latch. You may have to take the latch out of the door to inspect it close enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T18:59:55.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1412" CreationDate="2011-07-18T22:31:44.093" Score="46" ViewCount="27111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the advice I've seen for jump starting cars instructs to connect the black wire to a bare piece of metal on the car with the dead battery. However, I've always just hooked up both poles to the corresponding poles on the other car's battery. I've never experienced any negative consequences, and it has always worked fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, does it matter, and if so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T17:29:08.943" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T18:42:17.717" Title="Jump starting a dead battery: Connect black wire to negative pole of battery or grounded metal?" Tags="|electrical|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2011-07-19T00:22:26.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I filled up, I noticed that the &quot;regular&quot; pumps had a sticker that said the gas &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; contain up to 10% ethanol.  The &quot;super&quot; pumps did not have a similar sticker, so going with a higher octane gas might be the way to go.  This was on the east coast of Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T00:22:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2011-07-19T00:28:01.767" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;From an electrical perspective, it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a lead-acid battery that is charging or discharging rapidly will give off hydrogen, which is highly explosive.  Since you generally make the ground connection last, there's a good chance that you'll get a spark, which is enough to ignite the hydrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it's unlikely that you'll have anything explode, under extreme conditions it's possible.  Making the ground connection away from the battery eliminates the possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T00:28:01.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:05:18.487" Score="7" ViewCount="9841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to take me ute to get a &quot;safety&quot; certificate so that I can get it registered (QLD, Australia) and I have one issue left that is still a possible problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch that operates the reversing lights isn't working. Or more specifically the bit in the transmition that activates the switch isn't working as I have replaced the switch for a new one and know it is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearbox seems fine aside from that, and the switch works as expected if disconnected and activated manually. I don't have the money, time or skill to pull out the engine and gearbox etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what the next best way to create a reverse switch is. I am thinking a push switch correctly positioned near the gear shifter so that it gets pushed when in reverse. Is there any other way it can be done that would be reliable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : Apparently we can't be trusted here to operate a manual switch. It seems from what I can find that it must be switched automatically when put in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastEditorUserId="769" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T22:46:48.963" LastActivityDate="2017-08-19T21:50:34.870" Title="Alternative reverse light switch" Tags="|electrical|transmission|lights|4wd|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1708" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:41:15.237" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still working on the 2000 Honda CRV. Trying to get the lock assembly out of the door so I can work on it, but I'm having trouble disconnecting it from the outside door handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;part #8 plugs into the handle assembly, but I can't see how to disconnect it.  Is there a special trick to getting this disconnected, or should I just yank and not be afraid to break it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both part #8 and the handle are plastic, so I'm a bit hesitant because I don't want to have to order a bunch of extra parts because I broke them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbSbw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T19:30:28.607" Title="Disconnecting rear lock assembly" Tags="|honda|locks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:56:05.883" Score="8" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire is worn on only on side, suggesting incorrect camber alignment. However, the amount of wear varies along the rotation of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the fact that the wear is not even for the entire rotation point to some other suspension issue or is it more likely the result of just alignment, alignment+balance, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ai4z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YArd3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2g93g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="821" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:14:00.447" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:16:06.663" Title="Identifying the Cause of This Tire Wear" Tags="|tires|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2011-07-19T03:36:24.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pry it with a small screwdriver, it's just a snug fit. This first picture is what that rod is held in with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7mwc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some latches like the one below have a retaining clip that hooks onto the rod, but your's isn't one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8SUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T03:36:24.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2011-07-19T08:53:02.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the rules about reversing lights in Aus? Over here it is quite permissable to have a manually operated reversing light, as long as it is not used when the vehicle is moving forward - i.e. You simply have a switch somewhere near the gearstick that you flick on when you pop it in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T08:53:02.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2011-07-19T09:54:20.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something like that happen on a track day, but it was a combination of a good chunk of wear from drifting, plus the effect of one lockup while sliding sideways for a few seconds at high speed. Looked quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have had a good slide (or two) with locked up wheels I can't see why you would get the variation around the circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T09:54:20.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2011-07-19T11:17:04.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the rim is straight and not bend? A slightly bend rim can cause very weird wear but you should feel it when you drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T11:17:04.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2011-07-19T12:17:56.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-ethanol fuel is supposedly available in nearly all of the USA, just hard to find.  There are certain airplane engines that are certified to use automobile grade gasoline as long as it does not contain any ethanol.  I hear it's getting harder for them to find the appropriate fuel these days, but that they are still able to get it.  Try asking around at your local small airport, ideally one with an EAA club as those are the pilots most likely to have airplanes with engines capable of using automobile grade gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T12:17:56.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1397" CreationDate="2011-07-19T12:36:00.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because diesel engines are so much simpler than petrol engines, servicing them is a lot easier.  There's no spark plugs or timing to worry about, no mixture to set, none of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is ensure that the fuel and air filters are clean, and change the oil and oil filter regularly.  Timing belts are a little more complicated to do because they drive the injector pump as well as the camshaft, even on common-rail diesels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to watch out for is that old-style diesels don't self-prime, so you need to press the button on top of the filter until it won't depress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="822" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T12:36:00.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="975" CreationDate="2011-07-19T14:25:47.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's at least one Web site that tries to catalog stations selling unblended gasoline. Here's one for the U.S. and Canada:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pure-gas.org/&quot;&gt;http://pure-gas.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T14:25:47.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1415" CreationDate="2011-07-19T20:50:36.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the photos it looks like it's both a potential camber issue as the wear is only on the inside, and an issue somewhere else due to the uneven wear. It basically looks like the tyre is 'hopping' down the road, which usually means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel isn't truly round (it has more of an egg shape).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could be an issue with the suspension, so check the shock absorbers and the bushings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might be suffering from a badly worn wheel bearing. That's probably the easiest thing to check - safely jack up the car, grab the wheel at the top and bottom (12 o'clock an 6 o'clock) and see if you can rock it around the center. Any sort of movement would suggest that you either have a worn wheel bearing or worn suspension (most likely bushes) very close to the wheel spindle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:16:06.663" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:16:06.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2011-07-19T20:53:30.973" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris makes a very good point regarding the hydrogen given off by the battery. There's also another reason, especially on older cars. Ground straps to the engine on most cars are notorious for corroding, so by hooking up the negative terminal to the engine you'll increase your chance of getting the maximum current flow when you're trying to crank the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T20:53:30.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-19T22:16:45.037" Score="9" ViewCount="3829" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem like a silly question. I've been trying to read the dipstick for my automatic transmission fluid but am having a very difficult time determining the level. The fluid is very light and translucent and I'm unsure if it is in the proper range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to making the level on the dipstick easier to determine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T04:50:36.747" Title="How can I be sure of the reading on my automatic transmission fluid dipstick?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1429" CreationDate="2011-07-20T01:29:46.193" Score="9" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I turned the key to start up my car and all the lights (headlights and instrument panel) came on bright and normal, but the engine made absolutely no sound. It wouldn't start, it didn't even try to crank, it was like it there was no motor at all in it. I sat there for about 10 minutes and tried again, voila! it started without any problems. There wasn't even a lag in the start, it just started up like a brand new car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can say is that for the last 6 months or so, when I turn the key it would delay for about a second or two then finally turn on, but even that was intermittent. Any ideas? I would hate to be out and about somewhere and it decides to not start for good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 1998 Buick LeSabre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user267" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T08:44:05.427" Title="Car Suddenly Decides To Not Crank" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1425" CreationDate="2011-07-20T04:50:36.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a scrap of paper towel, touch it lightly to the top of the dipstick, and then slowly swipe it down the dipstick. You'll clearly see when it touches fluid even if the fluid is light, and you can then determine where the fluid level is on the stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T04:50:36.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1461" CreationDate="2011-07-20T08:22:54.837" Score="2" ViewCount="7229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older 1993 Mitsubishi Triton ute. The issue is that the reverse lights are always on while the car is running regardless of gear position. The gearbox works, that is to say that the car drives fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the switch that plugs into the gearbox to check the reverse position with a new genuine one from Mitsubishi. (Which cost way more than I thought it would)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new switch turns off the lights when pushed down and when let up the lights come back on. (Tested before plugging into the gearbox) This seems backwards to me but that is how it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked fuses. I have checked the wiring to the best of my capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the gearbox seems fine otherwise I am reluctant to think that something might be broken inside it but what else is there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T05:28:53.063" Title="reverse lights always on" Tags="|electrical|transmission|lights|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2011-07-20T08:44:05.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've almost certainly got a poor connection on your starter motor solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the starter, and there will be a small cylinder on one side of it, with a single small wire going to it (not the big main starter cable). Remove this (it is usually a spade connector) and clean the connectors - if necessary squeeze the female connector on the end of the wire slightly until it's a tight fit on the solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't solve it, the problem maight be elsewhere in the same circuit, but that would be my first suspect, as I've had exactly the same symptoms with more than one car and that has always solved them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T08:44:05.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1431" CreationDate="2011-07-20T12:39:18.107" Score="4" ViewCount="19679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car to my dealer to get inspected and they tried to pressure me into buying some new wiper blades from them for ~$40.  The blades are only 6 months old, and the car is otherwise in great shape (only 5 years old).  They refused to pass my car unless I bought the new blades from them.  I get the sense they were just looking to make some extra money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is wiper blade quality a real issue during inspections, or am I correct that I'm getting hustled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T01:24:32.527" Title="MA Inspection rejected due to wiper blades. For real?" Tags="|inspection|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2011-07-20T13:19:54.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you're being conned. While I don't know MA law, over here the wiper blades will only fail if they are perished or otherwise damaged so as to not effectively clear the screen - either of which should be obvious to you from a visual inspection or simply running your finger along the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T15:40:35.623" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T15:40:35.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1430" CreationDate="2011-07-20T15:21:33.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the relevant section of your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mass.gov/rmv/inspect/540cmr4/sec404b.htm&quot;&gt;motor vehicles inspection requirements&lt;/a&gt;.  Scroll down to point 8 and you'll see &quot;Glazing and Windshield Wiper(s).&quot;  The following appear to be the critical requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;540 CMR 4.00&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4.04 Procedures for Inspection of Non-Commercial Motor Vehicles (continued) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...snip...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(a) Windshield Critical Viewing Area is the area covered by the sweep&#xA;  of the wiper(s) exclusive of the outer two inches within the perimeter&#xA;  of the wiper(s) sweep, provided by the vehicle manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Windshields having any of the following defects will be rejected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[... snip ...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wiper scrape(s) in excess of 1/4 inch wide within the critical&#xA;  viewing area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[... snip ...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(d) Windshield Wiper(s). Test for proper operation. If the vehicle was&#xA;  equipped with two wipers, as furnished by the manufacturer, both must&#xA;  be maintained in good working order. Wiper blades must properly&#xA;  contact the windshield and, be of the same length as those furnished&#xA;  as original equipment. The rubber elements shall be free from damage&#xA;  or tears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly reasonable to ask why they're failing the windshield wipers; i.e., which point are they failing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From reading those requirements, I have to say that they sound like a good idea: your wipers should wipe enough of the windshield to see out.  If they're legitimately bad, go to Walmart (or equivalent) and get some new blades.  Quite often, they have the rubber cut-to-length inserts that you can slide on for cheap.  I can say with near certainty that that option will be cheaper than dealer blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T15:21:33.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-20T15:56:50.760" Score="5" ViewCount="13378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently left my car (Honda Accord) in the parking lot of my apartment complex for a little over a month while I was out of town. It was working fine when I left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I've come back, I've noticed something visible coming out of one of AC vents (only when the AC is on). Sort of like a light smokey look-- but it's not actually smoke. The other AC vents act normally.  It has a slight smell, but I can't identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise the car looks, sounds, and feels fine to drive. Does anyone know what might be wrong with the vent and if there's a simple thing I can check to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently live in Houston, TX so it was very hot and humid for the month that I was gone-- not sure if that could have caused anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="827" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:35:30.000" Title="Stuff coming out from my AC" Tags="|honda|ac|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1439" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:13:01.753" Score="9" ViewCount="22786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to my Honda dealership for a B-1 service, and he came back saying that I needed to replace both my front brake pads and rotors. The quote for that is $531. I am wondering if I should go ahead and get it done, or have someone else take a look at it. Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="826" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T05:04:54.630" Title="Replace front brake pads and rotors?" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1433" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:35:30.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like condensation from moisture that's already in the system.  It's not harmful but that slight smell could be the beginnings of mildew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to dry out the system.  The best way that I've heard of is to run the air through the recirculator with the heater on, trying the defrost, floor and vent settings.  If you run hot dry air through the system for a while, it'll dry out quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Admittedly, in Houston this will be like sitting in the ninth circle of Hell....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, you should notice that you aren't getting that fog from the vent (or at least quite a bit less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:35:30.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2011-07-20T18:29:27.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the prices for the parts and the labor, and you should probably get a 2nd estimate, because that does seem a bit high, but I don't know what else is included in the service you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealers generally have higher prices, and often you can get similar quality parts much cheaper from other sources.  For example, I looked up rotors for a 2008 Honda Civic at Rock Auto, and prices ranged from $16 to $75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T18:29:27.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2011-07-20T18:42:59.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't offer you an opportunity to improve your DMF's lifecycle, but to be honest, do you want to? I had a 2003 tdi jetta that had one, and replacing it with a single mass flywheel improved performance quite a bit (and reduced the noise from the work out DMF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's also expensive to replace, so if you have to, don't get a new DMF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="828" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T18:42:59.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2011-07-20T23:05:31.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading around a bit on the dual mass clutch the friction plate between the two masses is the component that will often wear out as it is designed to keep from too much torque being sent through to the transmission, taking the hit itself instead (choice between burning up a couple hundred dollar flywheel or a transmission in the thousands of dollars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sitting idle in neutral, you are not putting the system under load and so that should not be creating wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you press and then release the clutch pedal, you are disengaging the clutch disc from the flywheel and then re-engaging it.  This causes wear on the clutch disc and flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time you are going to put the most strain on the friction plate is during acceleration (that is when the most force is exerted onto the drivetrain) so I would suggest keeping a steady speed over speeding up, coasting, speeding up, coasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T23:05:31.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2011-07-20T23:22:13.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated, get the estimate on paper with parts and labor broken down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to another shop and get an estimate, tell them reasons related to your car of why you want the estimate, not &quot;i have this estimate, can you do better&quot;.  If you've noticed vibration under heavy braking, noises or just reached the number of miles where you want them checked for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then compare the two and armed with that information, you can question either shop about the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hey Dealership, explain to me why you want to replace the rotors but Shop B is going to just turn them?&quot; They might say they are showing signs of damage, too much warping, too thin or &quot;we can just turn them if that is what you want but next time you will need to replace them&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be two big differences between the dealer and a local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts cost of OEM vs Aftermarket.  OEM are going to be more expensive then Aftermarket &quot;OEM Equivalent&quot; parts (ones built to meet the OEM specs) but will be cheaper then upgraded Aftermarket parts (larger rotors, slotted, drilled, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither the dealership or a local shop should change their labor cost if you purchase the parts yourself (as long as there isn't additional work created by what you choose) so go ahead and shop around too.  Depending on what kind of markup they put on their parts, you can save some money this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Labor cost should be higher at the dealership.  In some situations it might be worth it to pay the people that are trained for your vehicle, a brake job isn't typically one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go the DIY route, brake jobs are remarkably easy, but I wouldn't go at it alone your first time, we are talking about the device that stops your car after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a friend that has done it before, doesn't have to have been on a Honda and ask them to go through it with you or someone that is about to do theirs and ask to watch and be an extra set of hands.  Once you've seen it through once, you won't need to pay for a brake job ever again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any car savvy friends, look up a local car club, there are a lot of Honda clubs around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T07:40:38.807" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T07:40:38.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1472" CreationDate="2011-07-21T04:31:32.547" Score="3" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '99 Maxima's &lt;code&gt;Check Engine&lt;/code&gt; light came on recently. I whipped out my OBD-II reader, and pulled off two codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0325 (Knock Sensor)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P1705 (TPS) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading online it appears the knock sensor code is pretty certainly a side-effect of the TPS code. And the common symptoms of TPS (e.g. sputtering while idle) are occurring in my car. I'm pretty certain I could mechanically replace the TPS myself, looking at directions and pictures online, but what I'm unsure of is whether this is repair as simple as just swapping the part out, or if the on-board computers need some kind of recalibration or something afterwards, in which case I'd just take it to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="99" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T20:49:54.600" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T20:49:54.600" Title="Can I easily replace the Throttle Position Sensor on a 1999 Maxima?" Tags="|nissan|obd-ii|sensor|maxima|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1790" CreationDate="2011-07-21T07:17:01.780" Score="7" ViewCount="2285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Ducati Monster M600.  Recently I noticed an engine vibration and whilst trying to figure it out I noticed that the horizontal cylinder exhaust is hot (hot enough to burn leather gloves) whilst the vertical cylinder is warm to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that the vibration is caused by the cold cylinder not working as hard as the hot one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checks so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel in oil - no smell of fuel in oil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unspent fuel in exhaust - no smell of fuel in exhaust &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum at Venturi in carbs is low on vertical cylinder on idle - under full throttle vacuum is good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theres no popping/banging on closing the throttle - i.e. no fuel getting into the exhaust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did the timing belts just over 1000 miles ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No issues starting the bike - bike fires every time within a second of pressing the starter button.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull HT Lead on hot engine from cold cylinder whilst running to see if the vibration changes - pull from vertical cylinder leaves engine running, pull from horizontal stops engine &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull HT Lead on cold engine from cold cylinder whilst running to see if the vibration changes - pull from vertical cylinder leaves engine running - drop in 300rpm, pull from horizontal leaves engine running - drop in 300rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swap ignition control units - engine still runs as normal - HT Lead pull results in the same engine stop on horizontal pull and engine run on vertical pull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checks to try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compression Check on cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carb balance &amp;amp; synch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check spark plug condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check timing on cold cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;History&#xA;I had a small fuel leak which caused the bike to run lean for a while but since that was fixed it had been fine.  The fuel leak was at the tank feed to the fuel filter causing air to get into the fuel line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I thought it was a bad battery so I had changed that to a new OEM 12v lead acid battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also recently changed the front and rear sprockets from 15:41 to 15:43 which has probably made the issue more noticeable as the revs are slightly higher at any given speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing anything else?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:06:11.340" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:06:11.340" Title="Ducati Monster M600 - Engine Vibration/Cold Cylinder" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|carburetor|ducati|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1448" CreationDate="2011-07-21T12:45:04.153" Score="4" ViewCount="26109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently got a 2005 Volvo S40 with a turbo engine; I want to take good care of it, so naturally, when the instruction manual recommends 91 octane fuel but says it takes a minimum of 87, I have no problem with buying 91, knowing (or at least &lt;em&gt;believing&lt;/em&gt;) that it's better for my engine and improves performance and fuel efficiency compared to just shoving regular unleaded into its tank. I checked online, read a bit about engine knocking and whatnot, and was determined that's what I'd do, and the previous seller also filled it with premium gas so it has been well taken care of thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I stopped at a local gas station to refill it for the first time. My fuel octane choices were 87, 89, or 93. Oh no! I probably should have hopped back in my car and went looking for a &quot;normal&quot; gas station, with premium at 91 octane... But instead I just choice 89 and made a mental note to ask this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have chosen 93? Or would that have been &quot;too much&quot;? Is it better to choose a bit higher or a bit lower? Could one be more harmful than the other to my engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the USA if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T15:25:56.063" Title="When given a choice between octane 89 and 93, which should I choose?" Tags="|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2011-07-21T13:11:58.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being in the midst of summer, I may have erred on the side of caution and gone with the 93 but I'm sure the 89 hasn't been harmful to your vehicle if the manual states you can put 87 into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned knocking, it sounds like you have already done some research.  Still, to cover it, the higher rated octane fuel is essentially &quot;harder&quot; to ignite and so is called for in either high compression engines or when using forced induction (turbocharger or supercharger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower octane fuel can have the tendency to ignite prematurely which is called knocking or detonation.  This can cause many different issues as your pistons and valves will not be at the right positions for the proper engine rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your car's manual says it will take 87 but recommends 91, most likely it has a knock sensor that when it detects early detonation it changes characteristics of the engine's operation to prevent further knocking.  This will prevent damage to the engine, but at the cost of performance and possibly fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I said erring on the side of caution with the 93 for summer is that depending on where your engine really falls in its need for 91 for optimal performance, 89 may or may not trip the knock sensor and cause that degraded state.  One factor that will impact it on a turbocharged engine is the charged air temperature, which in the summer is already starting at a higher temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T13:11:58.897" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2011-07-21T13:47:07.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to what ManiacZX covered in his answer: On modern turbocharged cars, the ignition computer will prevent knocking, which will prevent damage.  You will end up with a bit less power, and a bit less fuel mileage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of a car being damaged by using a higher octane fuel than needed - in fact, many gas companies try temp people to do just that with their advertizing when it's not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you need 91 octane, but only have a choice between 89 and 93, fill it with 1/2 of each - this will give you what's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T16:26:30.193" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T16:26:30.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2011-07-21T14:03:29.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 VW Passat Turbo.  It also calls for 91 octane which I hardle ever see.  Like you noticed, most stations have 87,89 and 93 where i live.  When we first got the car we always used 93, then about a year in we switched to 89 and did not notice a difference.  Then a few years later the VW service shop said 87 is fine, it wont hurt anything.  As others have mentioned, it may decrease performance, but other than that, no biggie.  So we switched to 87, have never had any knocking, or even any performance issues for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="834" LastEditorUserId="834" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T11:30:56.743" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T11:30:56.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2011-07-21T14:56:32.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's car, though designed to run on 99 RON or above &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; run on lower Octane numbers, but if you do use lower Octane fuel the engine de-tunes itself dramatically, and the process to tune it back up again is difficult to do yourself - so &lt;strong&gt;be aware of the particular tuning requirements for your car&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, my wife's car now runs on 98 RON and has lost around 20 BHP - now down to about 320 BHP, so you can feel the difference - luckily she can cope with it so we are just leaving it requiring lower octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own car will end up with a damaged engine if I try to use anything under 99 RON, so when I go touring round the highlands, where there are few garages with proper fuel, I need to take a can of Toluene with me (it is about 114 RON) to mix in with each tank of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T14:56:32.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-21T18:36:03.457" Score="2" ViewCount="30895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Caravan [short wheelbase, base model] with a 4-speed automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it sits [off] for a few hours, the shifter will get stuck in park. A little jiggling and a hard pull down and it will eventually be coaxed into getting in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifter, when it &quot;breaks out of park&quot; does make a harsh, plasticy sound, like I forced something in the shifter to move, when it really didn't want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the transmission itself doesn't really clunk into gear after forcing it to shift. (Certainly no more than usual for a 14 year old vehicle with 108k miles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be related to parking on a [very slight] incline at work, but it was tricky to get it out of park after letting it sit for 2 days on my completely flat driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for resolving such an issue? Also what would it sound/feel like if the parking pawl didn't want to disengage because of an incline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T19:08:55.603" Title="Best way to diagnose and fix a shifter that sticks in park?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|parking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1454" CreationDate="2011-07-21T18:46:58.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS (front-wheel drive vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Periodically, during left-hand curves at highway speeds, my car will suddenly begin turning tighter than I'm asking it to. It's difficult to describe the feeling, and I'm not great with the terminology, so I use the word &quot;oversteer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything will be normal until the conditions are just right--sharp enough and fast enough. Then, without warning, my car will behave as if I suddenly tried to turn tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not happen when I am turning right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters: The last time I had my wheels balanced I was told that the ball joint on my right-front wheel was a little loose, and that it wasn't anything to be extremely concerned about, but that it might cause my tires to wear slightly unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T11:40:05.753" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T11:40:05.753" Title="Sudden Oversteer - What Might Be the Cause" Tags="|chevrolet|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2011-07-21T19:01:03.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be experiencing torque steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have Front Wheel Drive (FWD) your drive wheels and your steering wheels are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes under load if traction is uneven (such as in a corner your car is shifting its weight to one side and so will have more traction on the left or right tires) the power being sent to the wheels can become uneven, causing one to try to go faster than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes for &quot;oversteer&quot; would be an increase in traction to BOTH front tires.  This would be caused by the transfer of weight from back to front either by letting off the throttle or applying the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are braking in the corner you shouldn't be, you want to brake before the corner, reducing your speed to what you want to carry through the corner, releasing before you turn into the corner.  Release the brake pedal smoothly, not all at once, otherwise you will be throwing your weight to the back, causing understeer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are coming off the throttle in the corner, the same advice as above essentially applies, come down to the speed you want before starting the turn, keep a neutral throttle (not accelerating or decelerating through the corner), then apply throttle on exit once your steering is reaching center again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T19:01:03.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1452" CreationDate="2011-07-21T19:08:55.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you put an automatic transmission into park it is applying a brake on the transmission (I don't know the details of this because I only drive manuals so I try to learn as little as I can about automatics :) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've observed on automatics though that once you go into park and let go of your brake pedal, it shifts slightly until it &quot;catches the transmission brake&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest trying to make use of your emergency brake to see if that relieves the pressure on your park brake and it is then able to shift out easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put foot on brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move shifter into park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply emergency brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When getting back into the car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put foot on brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move shifter out of park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release emergency brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how your shifter acts coming out of park with that method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is that the weight of the car against the parking brake is causing pressure making it difficult to release it, holding the weight on the emergency brake (typically the rear wheel brakes) should alleviate that pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T19:08:55.603" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1457" CreationDate="2011-07-21T20:40:20.737" Score="5" ViewCount="1999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Hyundai Sonata, it is making a &quot;creaky&quot; or &quot;metallic banging&quot; sound when I go over bumps.  The sound is coming from the right rear wheel area, is this a bad strut?  When I push on that corner of the car it does not seem to bounce any more than the other corners.  I also am unable to reproduce the sound by simply pushing on the car, though the sound happens very frequently when driving on the road or pulling into a driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only planning on keeping this car for another 6-12 months.  Is this something that is worth fixing?  Is it is safety issue?  Will not fixing cause more damage to the suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T11:37:41.697" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T11:37:41.697" Title="Creaky / Banging sound when going over bumps" Tags="|suspension|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1456" CreationDate="2011-07-21T21:46:42.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be various things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loose fixing on a strut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn damper washers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;broken or loose mount points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;damaged universal joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And various others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely recommend getting it checked out, as if it broke at speed and was a component that keeps the wheel in contact with the ground then steering could get...interesting, with the front left potentially losing all traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T21:46:42.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1456" CreationDate="2011-07-21T21:47:19.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the cause, it's hard to say whether or not it is a safety issue, but it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be - it would be worth it to take it to a mechanic to determine the cause.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be as simple as a loose muffler hanger, or it could be a broken strut or something else that could let go and leave you stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T21:47:19.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1460" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:07:41.773" Score="5" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Gasket that seals around my hood has come loose. There is the residue of an adhesive on the painted metal and the rubber gasket.  What is this likely to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T11:36:28.390" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T11:36:28.390" Title="What is the adhesive used to attach the gasket to the hood?" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1459" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:21:23.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/3m-super-weatherstrip-and-gasket-adhesive-08002-yellow.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3M Weatherstrip adhesive&lt;/a&gt; is the way to go.  I assume you've checked to ensure that it originally was glued, and not clipped in.  Some rubber gaskets use small plastic pins inserted into a hole in the rubber that snap into the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T22:21:23.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1428" CreationDate="2011-07-22T09:10:20.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to some helpful people here and on the Australian 4wd forums and a local gearbox repair place I have found a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the gearbox the the MJ Triton uses a ball bearing above the reverse switch. The gearbox pushes it down (pushing the switch) when in forwards gears which opens the circuit and turns the lights off. In reverse it lifts up and closes the circuit which turns the lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think that's an absolutely stupid way of doing things but that seems to be the way it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T09:10:20.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2011-07-22T09:12:37.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to some helpful people here and on the Australian 4wd forums and a local gearbox repair place I have found a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the gearbox the the MJ Triton uses a ball bearing above the reverse switch. The gearbox pushes it down (pushing the switch) when in forwards gears which opens the circuit and turns the lights off. In reverse it lifts up and closes the circuit which turns the lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think that's an absolutely stupid way of doing things but that seems to be the way it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T09:12:37.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1466" CreationDate="2011-07-22T10:40:03.533" Score="68" ViewCount="22658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a used car. What do you think I should check (mechanically) before buying it (especially if it's diesel)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T12:54:50.503" Title="What to check when buying a used car?" Tags="|maintenance|diesel|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T11:23:03.403" Score="15" ViewCount="70774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one (slowly) leaking shock. It was pointed out to me by a service place, and they also told me that they would recommend replacing both shocks (i.e. the left and right side) at the same time even though there is currently no problem with the other side shock. They didn't really give me a solid reason so I felt like they are just wanting to get twice the money from me if the other shock is perfectly fine. I'm not sure how worn the shocks are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just replace the one shock or is it better to replace both at the same time? Why would you need to replace both of them simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T15:53:35.737" Title="Should you replace shocks in pairs?" Tags="|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1464" CreationDate="2011-07-22T11:40:14.020" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to replace both shocks at the same time. One new shock can (and will) have an adverse effect on the handling and thus safety. A new shock has different damping characteristics as the old one and it can lead to weird steering behaviour, loss of grip on one wheel, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T11:40:14.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-07-22T12:13:06.707" Score="51" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Inside the car&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual:&lt;/strong&gt; Check the manual for the service history. Was it services regularly at a authorized dealership?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ash tray:&lt;/strong&gt; Smells like cigarettes? The previous owner was a smoker, deal-breaker for me personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interior:&lt;/strong&gt; Does the amount of wear correspond with the expected amount of wear for a car of that age and mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trunk:&lt;/strong&gt; Spare tire present? Jack present? Condition of the carpet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Under the hood&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine:&lt;/strong&gt; Does it look to clean? If the garage cleans the engine it most likely has a defect like an oil leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil cap:&lt;/strong&gt; White creamy stuff on the inside of the cap? Can indicate a broken head gasket or the car was used for a lot of very short trips. Walk away, it'll cost you to much money for repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Exterior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint condition:&lt;/strong&gt; Lots of small dents and scratches indicate a sloppy previous owner. Pay attention to door edges and fender corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front fender:&lt;/strong&gt; Look at the underside, lots of scratches present? The previous owner didn't slow down for speed bumps. Can cost you money for new shocks, ball joints, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Door handles:&lt;/strong&gt; Lots of scratches around the door handles? A woman owned the car before you, expect to find some small toys and jewelry in the car. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parking damage on the rims:&lt;/strong&gt; Lots of damage? Walk away, rim repair is expensive and the steering parts will be more worn than with careful drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Test-drive&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steering:&lt;/strong&gt; Accelerate tot 30 mph (50 km/h) on an empty straight road and get your hands off the wheel. Does the car continue to drive in a straight line? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes:&lt;/strong&gt; Go to an empty parking lot, accelerate to 30 mph (50 km/h) and press the brake really hard. Does the car brake in a straight line without tugging on the wheel? Do you feel the vibration from the antilock brakes (if present)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gearbox/clutch:&lt;/strong&gt; Does it shift smoothly? Is the clutch worn out? (Engage very late, does not stall when engaging the clutch without applying some gas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine noise:&lt;/strong&gt; How does it sound? No weird noises?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shocks:&lt;/strong&gt; Listen for squeaky noises or thumping sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine temperature:&lt;/strong&gt; Does the car reach it's normal operating temperature after a few miles/kilometers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air conditioner/heater:&lt;/strong&gt; Is the air conditioner really cold? Make sure the fan of the ventilation doesn't make weird noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lights:&lt;/strong&gt; Everything works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Price negotiation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing belt almost due?&lt;/strong&gt; Try to get a new one including the water pump included in the price&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air conditioner not cold enough?&lt;/strong&gt; Ask the dealer to refill it with coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worn tires?&lt;/strong&gt; No new (good!) tires = no deal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think a full tank of gas is part of the deal. :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="21717" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T12:54:50.503" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T12:54:50.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-07-22T13:36:39.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several printable checklists to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Autopedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://autopedia.com/html/Used_car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Used Car Buyer's Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MSN Auto &lt;a href=&quot;http://autos.msn.com/advice/articles/aischecklist.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AIS Used-Car Pre-Purchase Checklist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Samarins.com &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samarins.com/check/simplecheck.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;illustrated used car checklist&lt;/a&gt; (notice it has 2 pages)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T13:36:39.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T15:08:05.183" Score="4" ViewCount="4069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi A4 1998 with over 200k miles. It gets extremely noisy when idle. It usually doesn't happen until it has been running for a while. Revving above 2000rpm can settle it and it isn't noisy when moving. Sometimes, if the car has been idling and noisy for a while, the oil light will flash and beep but goes away once moving again (there is enough oil). The noise is a very loud rattling.&#xA;What is it and how can I go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T05:19:43.177" Title="Audi A4 (1998) extremely noisy when idle, occasional oil light" Tags="|oil|noise|audi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2011-07-22T15:54:42.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible low oil pressure.  Could be due to, or currently in the process of causing damage to the main bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar situation with my Toyota.  Apparently the oil pressure light comes on only at VERY low oil pressure.  The car was down around that value at idle, and at speed it was up just barely above it (enough to keep the light off, but was gradually doing extensive engine damage) due to a failing oil pump.  It ended up costing me a $4500 engine rebuild eventually after we exhausted all the simple &quot;fixes&quot; (bad oil pressure sensor, etc).  Main bearings were trashed, cylinder bores were trashed (had to overbore the engine to save the block), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend taking it in and having the oil pressure checked by a professional ASAP!  Wouldn't hurt to take a borescope to it, and possibly drop the oil pan to check the bearings (I assume they're readily accessible on an Audi, like they are on other makes?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T15:54:42.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2011-07-22T16:33:10.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 92's are known for their speedometer failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a replacement speedometer from www.techbargains.com.  Kinda.&#xA;It's made by Garmin, and when I put it on the dashboard it tells me how fast I'm going.  And where I'm at, and what direction I'm going, as well as my elevation from sea level.  AND I can enter an address and it tells me how to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It cost me about $60.  I think it's way better than the original speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T16:33:10.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1528" CreationDate="2011-07-22T17:49:39.067" Score="12" ViewCount="23930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Chrysler Neon which generally runs well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that if I start the vehicle, turn the AC on and reverse out of the driveway, the engine seems to struggle/sounds like it is going to stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the AC off, it immediately regains power and runs fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the AC is off the whole time, there is no struggling/stalling behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also happens in a forward gear, but not to the same degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the vehicle is running, I can turn the AC to full without this symptom, but it still feels a little less responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give me an idea of where to start, what sorts of problems could cause these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be an issue with the battery, since presumably it would be at its weakest immediately after starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="844" LastEditorUserId="844" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T13:40:50.657" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T13:40:50.657" Title="Why might I experience a power falloff after starting my car with the AC On?" Tags="|engine|battery|ac|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1441" CreationDate="2011-07-22T18:17:43.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a modern car, there's no real work to be done after physically replacing the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disconnect the negative battery for 10-15 mins to reset the computer and have it relearn its mappings, but that's not strictly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:17:43.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2011-07-22T18:25:36.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it when you reach full-travel on the steering wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;single &quot;cluck&quot; while stopped -- a worn tie rod end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;see image for location: &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/e5//small/0900c1528018f9e5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/e5//small/0900c1528018f9e5.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a &quot;cluck-cluck-cluck&quot; sound while moving -- a worn CV joint&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;see image for location: &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/7c//small/0900c1528018f97c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/18/f9/7c//small/0900c1528018f97c.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:25:36.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2011-07-22T18:29:10.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason the oil light is coming on is because the oil pressure in the engine does fall low enough for the oil pressure switch to trigger. After all, it's a pressure warning light and not an oil level warning light. It's not unknown for these switches to go bad but given that it's accompanied by engine noise, I would very much work on the assumption that you have an oil pressure problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a mechanic to check the oil pressure with a known accurate gauge and you'll probably find that idle oil pressure is too low. Generally that would be a sign of engine wear, but under certain circumstances it can be caused by oil that's way too thin for the engine. Either way, the cause of the noises might already have caused enough damage for you to need to have the engine looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:29:10.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1464" CreationDate="2011-07-22T18:30:32.697" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely replace them in pairs, depending on the wear of them you might even have to replace all four as combining worn shocks with new ones can (a) have very undesirable effects on the handling and (b) tends to accelerate wear on the already worn shocks, leading to even more (a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:30:32.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1482" CreationDate="2011-07-22T21:35:30.353" Score="4" ViewCount="35604" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shop just tested my non-working AC, and recharged the freon - so, for now, it's working.  Cost $118 all in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they tell me I have a leak in my evaporator core, and that it will take 16 hours to repair, at an estimated cost of $1800. (I'm in NYC, labor costs are pretty high.)  He also said that my current freon charge might last me the rest of the summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online research validates the repair estimate: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/my-actual-evaporator-heater-core-removal-installation-thread-592844/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/my-actual-evaporator-heater-core-removal-installation-thread-592844/&lt;/a&gt; - and given how the AC slowly stopped working, and that this is a common point of failure for Jeeps - the diagnosis makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bluebook retail value reported from the online tool is $8300 for my location, for this car.  There are cosmetic issues, so knock that value down to $6k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to drive this car into the ground before I replace it, but, even so, paying 30% of the value of the car just to fix the A/C is hard to swallow.  I don't drive it daily, so considering where I live, I'd wouldn't expect to use the A/C more than 30 days a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I just replace the freon intermittently, rather than repairing the leak to the evaporator core?  Is it just that the leak will get worse and eventually I won't be able to get the A/C to work at all, without repairing it?  Or are there other factors, side effects, such that other things might degrade faster, if the evaporator core isn't repaired?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you do, other than trade this car in for a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="845" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T02:13:12.127" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T12:27:54.413" Title="What do I risk if I don't fix my leaking evaporator core on my 2004 Jeep GC?" Tags="|jeep|ac|grand-cherokee|hvac|leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2011-07-23T13:48:14.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The refrigerant in your Grand Cherokee is R-134a. It won't damage the ozone layer like the old R-12 would, but it's a potent greenhouse gas. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roadandtrack.com/column/a-c-the-ec-and-global-warming&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any part of the car that will be harmed mechanically by ignoring the leak and simply recharging the A/C intermittently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T13:48:14.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1479" CreationDate="2011-07-24T04:31:32.707" Score="6" ViewCount="8019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been noticing a troubling trend with my car as of late. Randomly, it will decide to make this blood curdling screech when I apply the brakes, and occasionally the noise will continue as I accelerate, like something is stuck in the wheel. Nine times out of then this will only occur if I've been on a gravel road recently. As a sizeable portion of my driving is on gravel roads, I'm wondering what exactly it is that I can do to make this stop occurring, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car details: I drive a 2005 Honda Civic Si 4d, no modifications to the drive train or other outside components at all have been performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="514" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:55:26.573" Title="Random grinding sound when applying brakes" Tags="|honda|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2011-07-24T16:10:46.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be possible for gravel to get caught in the brake itself, but it could get caught in the brake caliper mounting bracket(s) or between the brake caliper and the wheel, the latter especially if you've installed bigger brakes or different-sized wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be certain: look for scoring or other damage to your braking surfaces — that is, to your discs or to the inner surface of the drums (if it has drum brakes on the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes often have dust shields mounted on the inboard (towards the center of the car) side. If one of those is missing, that might allow gravel to get stuck in places where it might not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider the possibility that the gravel is getting caught in the suspension someplace, and then squealing when braking causes the suspension to move. Try looking under the car at the suspension and driveshafts. If you see dirt or small bits of gravel anywhere, that suggests a place where road debris can accumulate. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what you can do about this other than drive more slowly and try to kick up less gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the chance that the gravel isn't the culprit, consider these questions covering brake squeals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/711/brakes-make-grinding-noise-during-stops-at-low-speeds&quot;&gt;Brakes make grinding noise during stops at low speeds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/474/squeaky-brakes-how-much-of-a-concern-are-they&quot;&gt;Squeaky Brakes: How much of a concern are they?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/204/my-car-squeals-when-braking-even-though-ive-had-my-front-rotors-machined-and-bac&quot;&gt;My Car Squeals When Braking Even Though I&amp;#39;ve Had My Front Rotors Machined and Back Rotors Replaced and all new brake pads. What could it be?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T16:10:46.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-24T17:59:53.707" Score="4" ViewCount="2250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally left my keys in ignition overnight - and now nothing. Have charged battery and tried spare key, but neither fixed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="851" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T11:06:13.153" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T11:06:13.153" Title="s60 won't start, no lights, nothing at all" Tags="|electrical|battery|volvo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1480" CreationDate="2011-07-24T18:26:28.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First step, remove, clean and reinstall the battery terminals. &#xA;Check the fluid level in the battery (if possible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow charge the battery on the lowest setting (not the &quot;maintain&quot; setting) overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/406/if-the-headlights-dim-to-almost-off-when-i-turn-off-the-engine-is-the-battery-alm/412#412&quot;&gt;See my answer here for more information on how to check the battery&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T18:26:28.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2011-07-24T18:46:06.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were mine and I could get by with one to two charges a season (3 - 4 months) I wouldn't do anything but that, and I can fix it myself. Once it gets worse than that I would fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get another shop to check it out, play dumb as if you don't already know. Because evaporator leaks can sometimes be tricky to diagnosis. Once more than one shop agrees it's the evaporator you can get multiple estimates. If you can't find someone to do it on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't something you want to tackle yourself if you haven't done under-dash work before, but before taking it to shop, find a tech that does side work. A lot of the technicians that work at shops and dealerships do side work at home. Over half the guys a the shops I have worked at including myself do this. Ask around, friends, coworkers etc. or check craigslist to find a professional technician that does side work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do side-work it's between 1/3 and 1/2 the labor the shop charges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T18:46:06.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1489" CreationDate="2011-07-25T00:30:41.363" Score="7" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a car for the first time, and I see the option to have a Daytime Running Lights.  What are they for, and do I need them?  I live in Los Angeles, where the the two seasons that do not exist are winter and football.  This car will be used for city and freeway driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR -- What are DRLs for, and do I need them for city driving?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="37754" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T02:52:40.343" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T02:52:40.343" Title="What are Daytime Running Lights for?" Tags="|lights|daytime-running-lights|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1484" CreationDate="2011-07-25T00:41:33.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp&quot;&gt;As the Wikipedia entry says&lt;/a&gt;, one benefit is that they improve visibility of the car. The idea is that they improve the safety of the vehicle.  Although:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A 2008 study by the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration analysed the effect &#xA;  of DRLs on frontal and side-on crashes between two vehicles and on vehicle collisions with &#xA;  pedestrians, cyclists, and motorcyclists. The analysis determined that DRLs offer no &#xA;  statistically-significant reduction in the frequency or severity of the collisions studied, &#xA;  except for a reduction in light trucks' and vans' involvement in two-vehicle crashes by a &#xA;  statistically-significant 5.7%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T00:41:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1480" CreationDate="2011-07-25T02:31:19.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it really sounds like a dead battery. If you are 100% sure that the battery has juice, my next guess would be to a) check terminals as Larry pointed out and then b) check the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T02:31:19.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1484" CreationDate="2011-07-25T11:13:20.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Peter mentioned the primary benefit is safety by making your vehicle more visible to others.  Therefore, it is more useful in a city than a rural area where you would have more people who need to see your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of daytime running lights, is that insurance companies typically give a discount on vehicles equipped with this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T11:13:20.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1484" CreationDate="2011-07-25T12:26:21.213" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: &lt;strong&gt;they're for other people.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a practical example: I drive a black car.  In the late summer, the trees around my neighborhood really overhang the road and block a lot of the lower-angle sunlight.  Also, the roads near my house range from 10-20 residential roads to full highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at a glance, my car doesn't passively give off a lot of visual cues about its orientation using the decreased ambient light.  If you &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt;, you can see that I'm definitely going 20, 40 or 60 mph but it might be just a little less clear out of the corner of your eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the running lights, it's just a little more obvious.  The human eye is great at picking up contrast and motion in the rod-dominated periphery of your vision.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, &lt;strong&gt;they aren't a magic spell&lt;/strong&gt;: if, say, you happen to be the kind of person who's talking on your cell phone, looking the other way while you cut me off in a parking lot (just to pose a not-so-hypothetical example), there's nothing that a couple of little lights on my car can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T12:26:21.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2011-07-25T13:38:24.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up finding manuals here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sm.gpona.com:9001/si/home.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sm.gpona.com:9001/si/home.do&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the Acadia and then drill down through: Service Manual &gt; Driver Information &amp;amp; Entertainment &gt; Cellular, Entertainment, Navigation &gt; Repair Instructions &gt; Digital Radio Receiver Replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T13:38:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1484" CreationDate="2011-07-25T14:15:41.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some areas - I seem to recall Alaska, Arizona or somewhere similarly open - running lights are generally discouraged when the sun is relatively low in the sky as the accident rate was increased. The article reckoned the lights helped the car blend in with the sun's glare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T14:15:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1496" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:45:56.797" Score="4" ViewCount="2596" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '09 AWD Traverse doesn't have the towing package. On one side we didn't realize what that meant when we bought it and on the other I rarely tow much beyond a small trailer to haul some stuff from the lumber yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we want to buy a camper. My wife doesn't want a pop-up. She wants one of those small hard shell campers (with a toilet) and A/C. Can you blame her? We haven't look too seriously yet, but it looks like they have a 3,500 lbs and less market for those smaller campers. I know the towing capacity on my Traverse is 2,000 lbs and that with the towing package it is about 5,200 lbs. Is there anything I can install that would comfortably allow me to tow around 3,000 to 3,500 lbs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer mentioned adding a transmission cooler, would that be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="853" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T03:24:25.127" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T09:59:29.223" Title="Adding Towing Capability to my '09 Chevy Traverse" Tags="|chevrolet|towing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1495" CreationDate="2011-07-25T19:09:05.233" Score="29" ViewCount="128835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard from some people that high octane fuel will increase gas mileage. Around here, we have the basic unleaded(87), mid-grade(89), and premium(93 or 91). I've been using the basic 87 unleaded forever because it was the cheapest. Also, in my car's manual it recommend the lowest grade to use is 87(Grand Am 2004 V6) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a car with no modifications will high octane fuel in general improve gas mileage, decrease it, or have no effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T19:41:15.957" Title="Will higher octane fuel improve gas mileage?" Tags="|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2011-07-25T20:30:50.490" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the recommended gas for your car.  Going lower than the recommended may reduce fuel economy as the engine may have to retard timing to avoid detonation.  Going higher than recommended won't help as your engine is unable to take full advantage of it, as well as the fact that higher octane fuels actually contain slightly less energy (they just offer a more controlled burn that higher compression engines can take advantage of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T20:30:50.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2011-07-25T21:13:40.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some towing packages include beefed up suspension and brakes as well as additional cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be better off upgrading to a Traverse with the factory towing package than trying to retro fit your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the issue of warranty servicing, which probably won't be covered since you're exceeding the recommendations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T21:13:40.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1514" CreationDate="2011-07-26T02:28:54.003" Score="16" ViewCount="1370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/322/&quot;&gt;features to look for in an OBD-II reader&lt;/a&gt;, but I am curious if getting one is the right move. I'm just planning to get a cheap one, which is proving to be interesting shopping local. What I expect to happen is I will read the code, go to my computer and look up what it means, and then follow the instructions in the Chilton's manual to fix whatever is wrong (assuming it is something I can fix.) I've replaced spark plugs, O2 sensors, fuel filters, etc. before, so I am moderately comfortable under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized there is an assumption in my plan, which is what brings me here. When I use the reader to read the code, how do I translate that code to something actionable? Is there a web site I go to, or do I just post the codes on this site? And when I get that translated, will that be enough information to look it up in the Chilton's so I know what the heck to do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a '97 Saturn SL1, and it currently won't start after it was running really rough (no power). Felt like it was not firing on all cylinders perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="856" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T19:52:03.237" Title="What to know before buying and OBD-II reader" Tags="|troubleshooting|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1576" CreationDate="2011-07-26T10:10:15.420" Score="3" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '06 GMC Canyon and I had it not starting in a parking lot last night. The starter was turning, but the engine would never actually turn over and start. There was an old timer that came by and said that fuel pumps were notorious for going bad in them, and when he checked the pressure on the fuel line it was weak. Diagnosing it as the fuel pump, he left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few minutes of talking on the phone with warranty people, I tried again. It started and was able to get us home (about a ten minute drive at 45 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, knowing this, is the fuel pump probably okay? I'm wondering if there might just be a faulty connection in the relay or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Maybe my wording was wrong. The engine is turning with the starter, but it never fires up. Maybe that's a better description?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="857" LastEditorUserId="857" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T10:55:46.333" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T11:29:03.970" Title="If the engine starts and keeps running, is my fuel pump okay?" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|gmc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1498" CreationDate="2011-07-26T10:35:37.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A faulty fuel pump can prevent the car from starting, but you said it wasn't turning around. The starter motor turns the engine even if there's no fuel, so I suspect something else. It could be the starter relais, starter motor or a weak battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="218" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T13:06:12.757" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T13:06:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1511" CreationDate="2011-07-26T11:04:49.600" Score="6" ViewCount="35057" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that my vehicle would probably benefit from having it's lubrication system being flushed out at it's next oil change. Checking prices of flushing oil at local suppliers I noticed that they are now also selling a variety of flushing additives &lt;sup&gt;(such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002HN00PS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;STP Engine Flush&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With flushing oil I would normally drain old oil, half fill with flushing oil, run the engine at a fast idle for a 15-20 minutes to circulate it, drain it again, change oil filter and finally fill up with normal oil. With the additive you don't need to drain the oil twice however, you just add it to the old oil in the engine, run it for 15-20 minutes then drain it out with the old oil and change the filter/oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the additive option will be more expensive (£4 per flush rather than £2 per flush for my engine) but will take less time (one complete engine drain/fill rather than two). It would also be more environmentally friendly, as there would be less waste oil to dispose of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, aside from the cost/time/waste concerns, is the additive solution &lt;em&gt;as effective&lt;/em&gt; or even &lt;em&gt;more effective&lt;/em&gt; than using traditional flushing oil? Which results in a &lt;em&gt;cleaner&lt;/em&gt; engine? I.e. less gunk from the old oil in the new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastEditorUserId="858" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T15:35:11.380" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:14:47.983" Title="Which provides better engine flushing, traditional flushing oil or adding a flush additive to old oil?" Tags="|oil|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1498" CreationDate="2011-07-26T11:27:00.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the fuel pump, especially if the pressure is low.  However it could also be that the fuel filter is clogged.  It might be about time to replace the fuel filter anyway, I would go ahead and do that no matter what assuming it is easy to get to.  (Sometimes they are hidden above the fuel tank and a pain to reach.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is turning and you can confirm you are getting fuel then look next at ignition and make sure your engine is getting good spark from the plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T11:27:00.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2011-07-26T11:31:15.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience the difference is &lt;em&gt;marginal&lt;/em&gt; at best. Given that I have known many people who swear by the &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; benefits of high octane fuel, I've tested the hypothesis on my own vehicles several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time I've tried the experiment (first with a 125cc motorbike, then with a 1100cc car, then with a 650cc sports bike and most recently with a 600cc commuter bike) the results have been the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average miles done on each tank &lt;sup&gt;(I always run full to reserve so calculating mpg is easy)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; usually increased, but by an insignificant amount and the extra mileage was &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; less than the extra cost of the fuel. For instance, on my current bike, it adds about 5 miles to the 200 mile full tank range (so 2.5% benefit), but adds 5% to the cost of fuel (£23 per tank rather than £22)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; that I have also noticed some benefit in terms of performance (acceleration), but only on &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of those vehicles and I fully recognise that this as likely to be due to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Confirmation_bias&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirmation bias&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;(thanks &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1494/will-higher-octane-fuel-improve-gas-mileage/1506#1506&quot;&gt;Bob&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; as it would be to any real benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T22:37:35.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2011-07-26T11:31:26.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is what I typically do since my reader just gives me a code. Searching for the code online will generally give you a good idea as to what the problem is.  Some items will require some research that might involve looking for someone with the same make/model who got the same code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T11:31:26.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="834" CreationDate="2011-07-26T12:40:53.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me as well.  There is a little bezel ring around the push button on the shifter.  Pull it out slightly and the key will come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="860" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T12:40:53.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2011-07-26T12:49:25.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In India, if you're bike has an exposed chain, it will collect grime. Lube your chain at regular intervals to keep it in top health.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, I think the 180cc Avenger is still carburetor based, and the carb needs to be cleaned at regular intervals along with the filter element in the air filter box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your owners manual will show the location of the oil sump, and instructions on how to drain and fill oil. Oil changes every 2500 kms or as per manufacturer's specified intervals will be necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indian bikes have dry cables, which are not bled with oil ever. Lubing cable end's where they meet the yokes on your handlebar are useful to keep the cables life longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your front forks are exposed. The fork pipes have oil seals that keep the fork oil from spilling out. However our road conditions are pretty severe on these seals, and they are known to leak every now and then. Tell tale signs are oil smears on the fork pipes, and/or wobbly handling at the front. Oil seal replacement requires tools that your toolbox might not have, and are best done at a service center, or external garage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T12:49:25.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2011-07-26T12:52:59.027" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some aspects of this question have been covered previously.  In my previous answer, I pointed out that using octane that is too low will lead to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/39/what-are-the-benefits-of-premium-high-octane-petrol/54#54&quot;&gt;retarded timing and higher emissions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to fuel economy, you can never trust someone's casual anecdote about fuel economy.  As Mark points out, they're almost certainly going to be operating under a case of serious &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Confirmation_bias&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirmation bias&lt;/a&gt;.  Fuel economy is something that has to be measured scientifically to establish that, under the same conditions with the same vehicle, fuel X is better than fuel Y by this amount, thereby saving you a net of Z dollars over time T.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the person you're talking to can't quote values for all of those variables, you're just having a cocktail party conversation.  Don't take it to seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, octane that is too low is bad.  Octane that is too high is possibly a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1352/engine-size-and-fuel-consumption/1355#1355&quot;&gt;favorite fuel economy example&lt;/a&gt; continues to be the episode of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmxUsGiGp3w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Top Gear&lt;/a&gt; where Jeremy Clarkson clearly demonstrates that a BMW M3 is more fuel efficient than a Toyota Prius.  There's no question: both cars drove the same course at the same speed over the same distance and the Prius used more gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Admittedly, he was driving around a race track and the Prius was going &quot;flat out&quot; (sarcasm quotes for the Prius) while the M3 was just loping along.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T22:47:19.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13511" CreationDate="2011-07-26T14:10:58.457" Score="6" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to remove the window glass from my driver-side front door so I can replace the window regulator. I have removed the two metal clips that hold the glass in the lift plate. Now the window is loose in the lift plate, but I can't pull the glass out of it - it is still holding on somehow. Is there anything else I should have disconnected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My regulator is stuck at the bottom position, so I have very little leverage to pull the window up (I had to loosen the bolts and raise the regulator an inch or so just to reach the clips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="861" LastEditorUserId="861" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T13:52:03.937" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T14:47:50.050" Title="Window glass in 2002 Jeep Liberty is stuck in regulator even after clips removed" Tags="|jeep|replace|power-windows|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1699" CreationDate="2011-07-26T15:57:04.950" Score="4" ViewCount="6777" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I leased a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze, brand new (only 2 miles on it), last November, 2010. It was running perfectly fine for a while. Brought it in for the standard tire rotation/oil change a few months ago. I brought it to an actual Chevrolet dealer to get everything done because they gave me a card that racks up points or whatever, not important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I have been hearing a clicking noise when braking. Some more details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seems to only be coming from the back of the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seems to only happen when I'm braking at low speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brought it to another Chevrolet Dealer and they said they have no idea what it is, but it doesn't look like it's affecting the car in any way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about you, but the fact that my car clicks when it slows down doesn't seem to be something I'm willing to live with, considering my bad history with vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't know if these have any bearing on each other whatsoever, but starting at the same time, my emissions light started coming on randomly in the car. One day it's there, the other it isn't. When I brought it to the dealer to check the clicking, I also mentioned this, but they said they couldn't fix anything b/c the light wasn't on that particular day. It's still been randomly on and off, but the clicking happens every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="835" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T11:04:01.093" Title="2011 Chevrolet Cruze - Clicking Noise When Braking" Tags="|tires|brakes|noise|chevrolet|emissions|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1484" CreationDate="2011-07-26T16:01:11.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people promote &lt;em&gt;Daytime Running Lights&lt;/em&gt; as a safety feature, but as with many ideas promoted in the name of &lt;em&gt;road safety&lt;/em&gt; I have yet to see much evidence to support the assertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while some study's show there are no benefits from increased visibility from DRL's on front impact scenarios, I wonder if anyone has studied the impact of daylight rear lights on rear impacts, due to there being less contrast between lit tail lights and brake lights (often in the same cluster) compared to unlit tail lights and brake lights. My hypothesis is that reduced contrast will result in slower reactions and a greater liklihood of a rear impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that in some jurestictions, &lt;em&gt;DRL&lt;/em&gt; has been made compulsary. Assuming that I would not be likely to drive in one of these locales, I would prefer to keep control of whether my vehicles lights are on or not - I certainly wouldn't &lt;em&gt;pay for the option&lt;/em&gt; to have the choice removed from me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T16:01:11.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-07-26T17:52:43.493" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between the two is that flushing oil is extremely thin oil that theoretically should be able to get into partially blocked, thin passages without any issues and remove the accumulated gunk there as well. Oh, and out any slightly leaking gasket, too. It's usually also got a suitable cleaning additive if you've bought a good oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additive doesn't really change the viscosity of the existing oil in the engine and is supposedly &quot;just&quot; a concentrated detergent package that you'll find in your regular motor oil (and you can hope that there is no chemical reaction between the two - there normally isn't, but there might be a chance for that). If your oil is already holding a lot of contaminant in suspension and the oil filter is reaching its filtering capacity, then you might to more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both, and I still (very) occasionally use flushing oil. However, for a decent running engine that hasn't suffered from a lot of contamination, I tend to prefer the third option - change the oil a couple of times in fairly short intervals, use a high-detergent oil (I like using diesel-specific oil that's also got the correct classifications for petrol engine, as that has a lot more detergents in it than the petrol engine variety) and change the filter every time. Oh, and use a high quality filter so it actually traps the contaminants that are cleaned out by the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T17:52:43.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-07-26T21:43:36.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried sea foam? I use Castrol Syntec, and run sea foam before my oil changes. I run it about 40 miles, which is the trip to where I change it, and it keeps my engine clean. I'm not sure how good it would work if the system is already dirty though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T21:43:36.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:33:58.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have any sort of loosing oil, like WD40? The glass might simply be stuck to the rubber seals that keep it from cracking in the clamps. If you can't see any other clamps, and it is still stuck; spray some WD40(or whatever) in there and gently separate the glass from rubber. I had this problem happen a couple of times on older BMWs while replacing regulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:33:58.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:40:55.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are simply buying it to try to fix your car, and not as a tool to have, car part stores sometimes read the codes for you. The readers will usually have a description, but if not OBD-II became a government standard in 1996. The codes are basically the same accross the board, and any additional codes are manufacturer specific. To translate them, you can rely on this wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_of_OBD-II_Codes&quot;&gt;&quot;DTC Codes&quot;&lt;/a&gt; as they are pretty much universal. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:40:55.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:42:50.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They might have bent a shield, and can really only be heard when going slow. Sometimes this happens if a tire hits them while removing them, or during installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:42:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:50:27.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real problem I see is damage to the compressor. The system has oil in it that keeps the part lubricated, and leaks sometimes allow for oil to escape. If you are recharging, and not planing on repairing, ask where the oil level indicator is. Ensuring that the system has oil is the key, because as the freon escapes air replaces it, so you are always compressing something and allowing oil to be pushed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:50:27.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1192" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:52:57.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used CarCare in a past life, and synced it with my PDA (Age comes out). I was satisfied with it, and it allowed for me to track all kinds of things. This was a while ago tho, and I remember it tracked insurance, and all sort of other expenses. They have a trial, so it would not hurt to try them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:52:57.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:55:26.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;William Cline has a point. When I worked at BMW, it was common for customers to have small pebbles caught in between the inboard side of the rotor and the dust shield. This would grind until the pebble wore out, or it was removed. Often the rotor would experience slight wear from the rubbing, but nothing to crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:55:26.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:29:25.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem sounds like one I saw in BMW 7 series. There was a rubber disc that sat between the transmission and the drive shaft(assuming RWD), and when the bolt holes became damaged the cars would do this. It was basically the thing would spin, and then catch up and hit. Once the disc was replaced, problem went away. Look at the drive train connection first, and see if the problem is simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T02:29:25.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:34:19.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the motor in the car? If so that is your lock. If not, can you remove the windows glass from the regulator, meaning just undo the bottom clamps? This would allow you to hold the glass, and pull the regulator with some force. Normally once the motor is out, there should be no reason why you can't actuate the windows by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T02:34:19.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:35:48.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compare tire sizes. If the tires you have on your car right now match the recommended factory tires size, and the Yaris has this same size, it should be fine. Mostly tire size and rating is what you compare, assuming stock rims of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T02:35:48.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-07-27T03:02:09.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the seller shows you the service records/log book, verify the records.  Call the dealers whose stamps are in the log book and make sure they have a record of having serviced the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blank log books can be bought cheaply off the internet, and it's easy to find a dodgy mechanic who'll stamp the book while his boss isn't watching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend recently bought a Toyota for around $50,000 with full log book history and 120,000kms on the clock.  When he took it to his local dealership for a service, they told him that Toyotas records have the car as having 300,000+ kms.  He then called the mechanics whose stamp was in the logbook and they say they have never serviced the car.  My friend had the car re-valued and it's only worth about $30,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this happens to you (at least in Australia) you have absolutely no legal recourse and could lose a lot of money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="864" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T03:02:09.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-27T03:23:09.367" Score="9" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used car and its seat, doors, dashboard all needs some good cleaning job. I am thinking to shampoo the seats and side doors and then vacuuming it. But I don't know what shampoo to use and how to do it?  I did clean mildew on gear using Windex. It did pretty good job. Need help cleaning the clothe seats and side doors. Do I soak the seat for long, how much water do I use? I have to take the car to outside vacuum for drying the seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T11:53:35.837" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T21:31:12.637" Title="What is the best way to detail your car inside?" Tags="|cleaning|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2011-07-27T12:11:37.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light and rear wheel clicking are not likely related.  Buy a code reader, or take the car somewhere the next time the check engine light comes on.  Pulling the code will give you a much better idea as to what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the clicking, you could jack the back up and rotate the wheels while listening for noise.  Maybe then do the same without the wheel on it.  If the rear brakes are drums inspect them for springs or adjusters that might not be connected correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T12:11:37.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2011-07-27T12:57:38.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be brake pad material on the disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brake from a fairly high speed down to a stop (e.g., highway speed down to a red light) where you have to sit, foot on brake for a significant period of time, you're holding the brake pad up against the hot disk.  That pad material is sticky (on purpose - you want to slow down, right?) and, since it doesn't have anywhere to put that heat, the material can leave a thin residue behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to check is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow proper safety procedures, etc. Take it to the shop if you aren't comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the brakes to cool down - some minutes after driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up that corner of the car and remove the wheel.  &lt;em&gt;As an aside, I always put the wheel I just removed under the frame of the car as that ultimate last resort if my jack were to let go, jack stand were to tip over, who knows what.  If the car were to fall, I might lose the wheel but keep my foot.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should see the brake disk and it should be largely clean and shiny-ish.  You were just driving and the brake pads tend to scrape off any shmutz as you're going about your day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visually inspect the disk.  Run your bare fingers all around the surface of the &lt;em&gt;cool&lt;/em&gt; disk.  You're looking for anything that isn't perfectly flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that you're going to find a shape that looks like the outline of the brake pad rising slightly above the base surface.  As you brake with relatively light pressure, that raised shape taps the brake pad (click) every time the wheel rotates.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I've done this many times myself and cursed afterwards.  The clicking should decrease over time as the residue is worn away.  Resurfacing the disks will, of course, help but at fairly unreasonable expense for an effectively cosmetic issue.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, driver's judgment is the final say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T12:57:38.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1533" CreationDate="2011-07-27T18:15:28.210" Score="3" ViewCount="15812" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the latch on an '03 focus (not hatch back) just clicks at you 4 or 5 times and never actually closes what needs to be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't close my trunk.  The black plastic thing that the latch is supposed to hook on to was pretty battered when I first tried to figure out what was going on and I took it off.  I tried replacing it with copious amounts of electrical tape, but that didn't help, it just got chewed up by the latch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to look for to replace the part that I know is broken, and I'm not sure that the real issue is the part I took off.  I think there may be some mechanical failure in the trunk's latch, otherwise it would make a normal sound when hitting the button to open the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T18:16:38.003" Title="Fixing a trunk latch on a Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2011-07-27T19:52:03.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be cautious, OBD-II is not as standardized as most people think...  Ford &amp;amp; GM both went their own ways with early OBD-II cars and industry standard &quot;ISO only&quot; readers won't work on them.  You need tri-mode readers that also support VPW (? going from memory, I believe that's Ford's OBD-II interface) and whatever GM used.  Side note, the Toyota Supra OBD-II models are also non-ISO, I believe using VPW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T19:52:03.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2011-07-27T20:11:48.087" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air Conditioners are run by a belt that is connected to the crankshaft.  The engine turning causes the A/C Compressor to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your A/C is not turned on, a clutch disengages the A/C Compressor's internals from the pulley on the belt.  This allows that belt to free spin, not adding load onto the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the A/C is turned on, that clutch is engaged and so the internals of the A/C Compressor are driven, this does add load to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a new symptom, then it is a sign that the compressor is adding more load to the engine then it used to and could be signs of a failing compressor, the pulley starting to seize, need for lubrication, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has always been this way and you are just curious as to why, it is simply additional strain being put on your engine by the A/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it has more of an impact at first start then once moving is not surprising.  Your engine is not warmed up yet and not at its optimal running condition yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A/C systems impact the performance of all engines, however the smaller and less powerful the engine, the more impact is going to be noticed as the A/C systems are not proportional to the engine, they are proportional to the interior cabin space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a vehicle that has a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder engine option, the A/C unit is going to be the same as there is the same interior space to cool.  However, you are going to notice the power impact far less on the V6 as it will be a smaller % reduction of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T20:11:48.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2011-07-27T21:31:12.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cleaning carpets many of the high-end professional detailers avoid using shampoos since it's nearly impossible to rinse out completely and the residue will attract dirt in the future.  Instead they use a steam cleaner.  Here is a video demonstration: &lt;a href=&quot;http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7440721179397618761&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7440721179397618761&amp;amp;hl=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately these steam machines are pretty expensive and I've never found a place that will rent one.  So if you do want to go the more traditional route, I'd recommend the Meguiar's carpet cleaning product: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+D10219&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+D10219&lt;/a&gt;.  Just follow the instructions on the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T21:31:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="608" CreationDate="2011-07-27T23:09:51.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive 2 1984 Topaz's and one 1985 Topaz daily. The part in your photo is actually the electric vacuum pump. It supplies the vacuum for the brake booster, cruise control, and the injection pump timing.  Unplugging it was the cause of the smoke. The IP has a built in cold start mechanism that uses the vacuum to adjust the injection pump timing depending on the outside temperature. It has a 2 stage timing adjustment. By unplugging it, you have deactivated the cold start, thus the smoke when cold. It won't hurt anything, but makes excessive smoke and lack of power until it warms up. It will make it a pain to start in winter also. This part won't be the source of the oil leak. By it's location on the engine, it will appear that is is the actual part leaking, but it is most likely another cause. There are several places that it can leak and appear it is that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hoses you mention, one goes up to a connector tree on the firewall that is underneath a plastic shield. This is where the vacuum is distributed. The other hose that goes nowhere with holes in it is the vent for the air it pumps out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the oil leak, a couple of spots to check. First check the valve cover gasket. It will leak down the front of the engine and pour off that pump. Next, check the power steering pump. Is is taking any fluid there? The back of the power steering pump is only held on by an o-ring and after years, they are bad to leak there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="869" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T23:09:51.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T01:27:59.763" Score="1" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250R a couple months ago.  I had a mechanic check it out first, and I've been riding it since with no issues.  The other day I noticed that the brake lever seems to be curled in at the end a bit more than the clutch lever.  Are these levers supposed to be perfectly symmetric?  (Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/634/can-a-motorcycles-brake-lever-be-bent-back-into-shape&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very low mileage, and there's no evidence that it's ever been laid down on that side.  It doesn't pose any problem when riding, and in fact I didn't even notice this for a couple of weeks, nor did my mechanic.  It seems perfectly sturdy still -- just in a slightly different shape than the clutch lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't bad, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="870" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T22:57:07.250" Title="Are the brake/clutch levers on a (pre-2008) Ninja 250 supposed to be symmetric?" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1628" CreationDate="2011-07-28T01:56:08.507" Score="0" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone told me it could be a minor leak somewhere but the check engine light does indicate the above on Mazda 626,year 2000. Could the code be misleading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T18:28:05.387" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T18:28:05.387" Title="Check engine light on for O2 sensor (Oxygen) but O2 sensor has been replaced" Tags="|cel|sensor|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1526" CreationDate="2011-07-28T09:15:45.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two usual problems associated with latches failing to latch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first (and simplest) is an alignment problem - if the striker is too far from the latch, it will never trigger it and thus it won't latch. You can test this by getting hold of something a similar diameter to the striker (such as a screwdriver) and trying to use that to trigger the latch. If that works, it is simply a case of re-adjusting both parts until it latches cleanly. This is hinted at by your second paragraph as chewing up the striker is a common symptom of misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, then the second likely thing is that the latch has failed or something is preventing it from closing. If it is rarely used this might simply be down to it gumming up, in which case cleaning out the mechanism and re-greasing the appropriate bits may fix it. Is it an electrically operated one or mechanical? If it is mechanical the cable might be stiff and so not letting the latch close properly, but I would assume it is electrical and thus that wouldn't be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T09:15:45.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1531" CreationDate="2011-07-28T11:19:10.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Honda Magna that was knocked over from being parked on two separate occasions.  Both times it happened to fall on the clutch side and it curled up the clutch lever.  I think this is by design as no other damage was done and I just had to replace the lever.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yours is only bent slightly it might have fallen over at some point but not as hard (I am guessing this is a lighter bike).  They are typically easy to replace and cheap. I would suggest looking up a new lever and if a new one is not curved then just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T11:19:10.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1532" CreationDate="2011-07-28T12:19:58.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly can be misleading.  It's just saying that the values from the sensor aren't matching up with what the computer expects to be happening as it makes adjustments.  Sensor could be bad, wiring could be bad, &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; sensor could be bad that makes the computer think that the O2 sensor should be doing something different, could be an exhaust leak, possibly a vacuum leak, potentially even a bad fuel injector, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MIL codes are not definitive.  They just tell you what the ECU has detected.  It's the mechanic's job to investigate that to confirm (or deny) and then repair as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T12:19:58.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1546" CreationDate="2011-07-28T15:29:03.520" Score="13" ViewCount="52411" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, how much power (HP) to the components on the the engine belt actually use? I'm trying to come up with an estimate of how much horsepower an engine wastes on things like the AC compressor, alternator, water pump, pullies, supercharger, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I realize it's impossible to say specifically since all vehicles are different and put different components on their engines drive belt. Prius and Highlander Hybrid have electric AC, for example, removing the compressor from the drive altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about some general concept: So a typical small-to-mid-size car with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- Tensioner&#xA;- AC&#xA;- Alternator&#xA;- Water pump&#xA;- Power Steering pump&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HP required for each? In a medium scenario? In a large scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer thanks to @Scott and more research done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small cars (e.g. Corolla, Civic, Focus): 15 HP - 25 HP. (typically have ~80 amp alternators, smaller water pumps, many with elec steering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium cars (e.g. Camry V6, Fusion V6): 25 HP - 40 HP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger cars (e.g. Traverse, Explorer, Mustang V8): 30 HP - 50 HP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastEditorUserId="872" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T14:35:11.680" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T16:47:00.537" Title="How much power (HP) do the components on the engine belt generally use?" Tags="|engine|performance|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1555" CreationDate="2011-07-28T18:24:07.007" Score="8" ViewCount="38420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recommended to get a fuel induction service for a 2002 V4 Camry, and am considering doing it MYSELF. The reasons for considering this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My car idles a bit rough, especially when the AC is on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dealer-mechanic recommended it for reason #1, and for the fact that my car has 125k miles on it and it couldn't hurt!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The article linked to below has some interesting information on the subject.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How should I do it such that it has the most benefit, and how hard would it be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Studies have shown that carbon build-up, especially in older direct-injected cars, to cause performance issues. See the following for example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailytech.com/Direct+Injected+Engines+from+Some+Automakers+are+Seeing+Reduced+Performance/article21962.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dailytech.com/Direct+Injected+Engines+from+Some+Automakers+are+Seeing+Reduced+Performance/article21962.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: After some more research and talking to a dealer, the &quot;fuel induction service&quot; is where they pour chemicals / cleaning agents directly into the injectors and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. That is significantly different from pouring SeaFoam or other agents into the gas tank, and having them significantly diluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is one method. But I'm curious if it actually makes sense to pull the injectors out and clean them, as one poster sarcastically suggests? If we're talking 30+ HP I'm all for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FINISHED: &lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I completed my own induction service over the weekend. The process took about 45 minutes (it was my first time). I went on to do it to our van and it took about 20 minutes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accepted Larry's answer because he provided the most thorough explanation of the process. I did not follow his process completely, however, since I did not have the tools for one of the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to detach the air intake hose and inject SeaFoam directly into the throttle body. I ran the RPM's at ~1,500 for a few minutes during this process. It took a bit of time before all of the SeaFoam was cleared out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End result: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idling is now smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine is smoother under heavy acceleration (surprised at that, actually).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More power, significant enough that I can tell the difference. The way I tested this was going from 45-65 on the highway as if to pass. I don't mash the pedal so the car stays in the same gear and only pushes the engine. It was able to do that without dropping a gear (it would drop a gear before).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T09:25:28.237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:25:28.237" Title="Doing my own fuel induction service - how to, and how difficult?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T19:29:36.853" Score="4" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speedometer on my '94 Suzuki Sidekick wavers sometimes.  This seem to happen only when I'm accelerating in about the 40-60 kph range.  I think it may happen consistently under those circumstances; at least, I've not noticed that it wasn't wavering.  When it's wavering, it does so in a range of about 6-10 kph, at a frequency of probably 2-4 times a second.  The frequency and range seem to be pretty constant, I'm just not real sure what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely to be a symptom of a serious problem?  I have no idea how long the speedometer's been doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T19:38:26.000" Title="wavering speedometer" Tags="|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2011-07-28T19:35:04.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, a &quot;fuel induction service&quot; is nothing more than running a chemical cleaning agent through the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not experiencing any symptoms of clogged injectors, it is unlikely to help.  However, it may be marginally useful as a preventative against build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I just add a can of SeaFoam to my gas tank a couple times a year.  Any similar product will probably be as effective, and should cost about 1/10th of what a dealership will charge for the &quot;fuel induction service&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T19:35:04.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1539" CreationDate="2011-07-28T19:38:26.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has a speedometer cable it may be frayed causing the fluctuating of the needle. It's also possible that the speedometer needs to be rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T19:38:26.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T20:41:12.020" Score="3" ViewCount="4225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that a given car stereo will work in a given car?  Are there a number of different form factors (sizes)?  Are some more common than others?  Are there a variety of connector schemes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of the stereo itself, rather than the speakers.  Presumably I would want to make sure the speakers are not going to be blown by a much more powerful stereo.  Are there other compatibility issues between stereos and speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other factors need to be taken into consideration?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T21:44:04.717" Title="Compatibility of car stereos" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1542" CreationDate="2011-07-28T21:03:03.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many sites including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/app/car/carselector.aspx?lp=/App/Car/outfitmycar/MyCar.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield&lt;/a&gt; have charts that will tell you what equipment fits in your car. You need to make sure that the radio will fit where the factory radio comes out, there are adapters that make installation very easy. You will need the correct electrical adapter so you can plug the aftermarket stereo into your existing wiring harness. You should never cut off the old plug and spice in the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adapter kit's like the one below allow you to securly mount the radio in the vehicle using the factory location and screw holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0wfL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring adapters like the one below let you connect the aftermarket radio wires to the adapter and plug the adapter into the factory harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHLat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using both of the adapters above allow you to install the radio without making modifications to the car. In the event you sell the car you can simply install the factory radio again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T21:03:03.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="526" CreationDate="2011-07-29T03:45:48.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i had the same loping idle and after cleaning the idle air control and fast idle thermo valve,  located on the front of the throttle body plenum above intake manifold, like all the forums said to do, i still had the annoying idle.                                                                  so next i managed to source the problem which was a leaking intake manifold gasket!! with the engine running, spray wd-40 along the gasket surface between backside of head and intake manifold. if you have a leak the wd-40 will get sucked thru where the gasket is supposed to be sealing. i did the repair myself and it only cost under 80$ for the gaskets/ o-rings ,etc. took a few hrs and at the same time cleaned all the carbon out the egr ports and plenum, put it all back together and it purrs like a kitten now, and this is a 91 accord with 116k on it. my 93 accord has 206k and still running strong!!!! hope this helped anyone looking. honda #1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="877" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T03:45:48.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="309" CreationDate="2011-07-29T04:40:33.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent an hour playing with the hinge; bending it and moving it until it finally fit properly. It seems to work pretty good now. It doesn't quite open all the way but it closes smoothly which was the main concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T04:40:33.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2011-07-29T06:33:48.710" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the comments made by others are correct. The power used by each of the components listed will vary on a component by component basis and even on an installation by installation basis. The power used by each component will also vary depending on the speed that it is running at. Also the number and type of components will vary from car to car.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With that out of the way, here are some numbers that could be used for rough approximations.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tensioner&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power used by the tensioner will be minimal and probably negligible. It will depend on how good the bearings are, but if it was using much energy at all, all that energy would be being converted to heat (or possibly noise). So tensioner can be pretty much ignored I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;AC&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_conditioner#Equipment_capacity&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's Airconditioner Article&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In an automobile, the A/C system will use around 5 horsepower (4 kW)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is marked as &quot;citation needed' though so take it with a grain of salt, but it would be approximately correct for when the aircon is activated. Remember that aircon is electronically clutched so that it's not always on and therefore not always using that much power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Alternator&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml&quot;&gt; Zena Incorporated&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... a 150 Amp alternator, operating at full output, the expected diesel engine load would be about 7-8 hp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all the others this number should only be used as an approximation and note that a 150 Amp Alternator is a pretty large alternator.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also note that this figure is when 'operating at full output' it's pretty rare that an alternator is ever running at full output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Water Pump&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps__EWP-content.aspx&quot;&gt;Davies, Craig FAQ&lt;/a&gt; Question No 19   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Davies, Craig performed a number of tests which concluded that a normal water pump uses up to 10kW of power to operate at its high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that Davies, Craig sell replacement water pumps that require less power to run so assume the numbers are only approximate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's also worth reading through Question 2 on the same page where they describe how the power pulled by a mechanical pump that runs from the drive belt will increase as the cube of the operating speed. So if power draw at 1000rpm is 0.1kW at 2000RPM it will be 0.8kW and at 4000rpm it will be 6.4kW.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power Steering&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eetimes.com/design/embedded/4006457/Electric-power-steering-one-good-turn-deserves-another&quot;&gt;EE Times article by Dave Wilson&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...replacing your three- to five-horsepower steering pump and its&#xA;  associated bulky hydraulics with an electric motor is one enhancement&#xA;  that actually improves performance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that he's selling the virtues of replacing your power steering pump with an electric one, so assume the numbers are only approximate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensioner: ~0 kW &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AC: 4kW (5hp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator: 5-6kW (7-8hp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water Pump: 10kW (13hp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Steering: 2-4kW (3-5hp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that all these values are approximate to start with and they are for max draw, an AC will draw close to nothing when it's not active, as will an alternator. Traditional water pumps will draw more power the faster they are spinning (so the higher the engine is revving). I'm not entirely sure about Power Steering pumps but I believe that they would only draw max power when being fully utilised.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The references I've used here are by no means 'definitive' so if anyone finds any references more appropriate then by all means edit this answer to improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="649" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T04:35:22.603" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T04:35:22.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1549" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:39:41.243" Score="8" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/884/how-does-the-change-oil-light-system-work-and-does-it-matter-what-type-of-oil-you&quot;&gt;How does the change oil light system work and does it matter what type of oil you use for it to work properly?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting last August, I am currently leasing a BMW 328i coupe. Before that, I had only had older used cars - I'd never owned a car with &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; than 100,000 miles before this BMW. It being my first new car, there are some things I've been surprised about coming from cars that I've had to be intricately involved with in maintenance and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I misread the &quot;miles until next oil change&quot; computer readout as &quot;miles driven to get your oil changed&quot; so mistakenly brought it to the dealership to get it changed. The service guy mentioned that he'd seen people have to bring it in anywhere from 10,000 to 15,000 miles (or some such numbers, can't remember exactly). I drove away, and then thought: &quot;wait, does the car &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; that&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, long story longer is my car monitoring how my oil is doing and telling me when I need to go in based on that instead of just by mileage or time lapsed since the last one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T16:39:09.263" Title="Do newer cars actually monitor the quality of oil?" Tags="|oil-change|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-07-29T16:38:05.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1542" CreationDate="2011-07-29T14:17:58.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most aftermarket stereos should conform to the DIN standard (ISO 7736), which defines the height and width of the enclosure. As Larry says, you can then get adapters to fit these into those cars that don't conform to the same standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's the same in the states, but most European cars I have come across have a DIN socket, but often concealed behind a manufacturer-specific front panel - You can then simply buy a new front panel with a DIN-sized hole in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring is again standardised (ISO 10487), but a lot of manufacturers, partiularly on older cars, use their own connectors - You can normally buy a double ended adapter cable to go from the ISO connector on the back of the stereo to the OEM one in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T14:17:58.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1547" CreationDate="2011-07-29T14:44:26.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many new cars do in have &quot;a sensor system that constantly monitors oil viscosity, conductivity, temperature and electrical parameters.&quot; See here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sensorland.com/AppPage064.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sensorland.com/AppPage064.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GM for example has been incorporating these into its Camaros, the Lambda platform, various Buicks, and more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another link that might prove helpful to you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=954499&quot;&gt;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=954499&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else could provide actual mechanical data (i.e. part numbers, wiring diagrams) I think that would help answer the question better. I haven't been able to find any myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T14:44:26.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2011-07-29T18:11:03.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be in a cynical mood today but a lot of these 'services' mainly seem to service the bottom line of the person recommending it. As qes says, running the occasional can of SeaFoam or another good injector cleaner through the system might help; what also helps and tends to get neglected is changing the fuel filter on time. Most of these measures are preventative and not really a cure for issues in the first place as they'll clean out minor deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really have issues with deposits on the injectors to the extend that it affects drivability, the only cure is to take out the injectors and have them cleaned by someone with the correct equipment or replace them. Either way a $100 'fuel induction service' isn't going to sort that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T18:11:03.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1553" CreationDate="2011-07-29T18:13:27.307" Score="10" ViewCount="114848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I realized today after beating my head about my car's &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1324/what-can-cause-a-vehicle-to-run-hot-but-not-overheat&quot;&gt;overheating problems&lt;/a&gt; that I have the wrong coolant in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, my car ran dry. At the bottom of the expansion tank was an orange crust(also the manual recommend DexCool.. ). I ignored the Dexcool warning in my manual as one of those &quot;you also need to take it to a certified dealer to get the oil changed&quot; type of warnings. So I filled it up with green coolant. Well, reading up more I realize that I'm wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 6 months ago, I had a wreck and got the radiator replaced(salvaged) and the mechanic(who I'm convinced now is an idiot) filled it up with green coolant along with leaving several leaks. I took it to another mechanic and after fixing the leaks, he also filled it up with green coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've been running green coolant for about a year now. How exactly should I go about switching to the proper Dexcool coolant? Would it do more harm than good to switch now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my car is having problems in that it overheats when sitting in traffic or idling. It doesn't have problems when going 65MPH or so. Could this cause this kind of problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T00:02:00.687" Title="My car has the wrong coolant in it. Now what?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2011-07-29T18:33:05.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overheating is likely caused by a non-working fan. When you are speeding, the air you run into cools it, but in traffic the radiator experiences no flow. As far as the coolant, you can have it flushed with the DexCool again, but personally I run BMWs blue coolant in my S10... So the coolants all work the same, and Chevrolet just prefers the red. Theoretically, you likely have no DexCool left after so many people have messed with your system, so it should be OK.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Edit: Also, as pointed out, ensure your radiator does not have any crushed tubes, or bent fins, as this might make it extremely inefficient. If it was not the right part number, than it might not cool enough fluid to meet the needs of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T19:07:00.430" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T19:07:00.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2011-07-29T18:35:32.380" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't mix the two coolants together you should not have any problem. I run &quot;green&quot; coolant in my GM that came with Dexcool, and have been for more than 5 years. You do want to check the ratio of coolant and water as straight coolant (or too much compared to water) will not cool as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question I wouldn't bother switching, if you decide to do so anyway simply flush the system and refill with the coolant of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your overheating concern, if it only overheats sitting still you need to check the fan operation and the shroud around the fan and radiator. Another possibility is the water pump, I have seen the fins wear off and the water pump stop circulating coolant, if yours is starting to do this it may not be circulating enough water at the lower RPM's at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T18:35:32.380" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2011-07-29T18:37:19.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why he would beat on your car, as the problem will likely just return. The problem likely lies in one of these places: The tag in the key itself (RFID) read by the computers, the ring that provides the field required to read the tag, or the computer that recognizes the tag. Beating it fixes nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T18:37:19.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2011-07-29T19:32:24.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still haven't answered the question &quot;Why do &lt;strong&gt;YOU&lt;/strong&gt; want to do this?&quot; I can provide you a better answer if I have that information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in the automotive repair business for more that 20 years and have sold and done many induction services. They work, but only if you need them. I used several systems and they all are comparable in results but vary greatly in price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some (General Motors) involve slowly pouring 2/3 of the can directly into the intake with the engine running between 1500 - 1800 rpm, and (almost) dumping the last 1/3 of the can in to choke the engine off, letting it sit for 15 minutes before cranking the engine up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another (BG products) had a fancy little nozzle that you clamp to the throttle body and spray into the intake with the engine running, or hook up to the fuel rail and run through the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others involve an aerosol can that you spray in the intake while the engine is running and add an additive to the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the cheapest, and just as effective except in the most severe cases is plan old water. Slowly (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;note too fast and you can destroy your engine as in bend a rod&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) pouring about a quart of water into the intake with the engine running about 1500 RPMs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have actually checked the effectiveness (non-scientifically) by looking into the cylinder with a boroscope through the spark-plug hole. Water seemed to work just as well as the additives. On a side note the BG man didn't like me so much after that, and in his defense it's a lot harder to sell the customer a water induction cleaning verses some great chemical that would solve all their problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line to all of this is if you aren't have drivability issues, it's a waste of time and money, unless of course you do the water treatment yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken hundreds if not thousands of motors apart and rarely see any carbon buildup to amount to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T19:32:24.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1558" CreationDate="2011-07-29T19:56:01.647" Score="8" ViewCount="27760" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is 30k mile maintenance really required? I have a subaru wrx '09 and the time has come for the check. I called the dealer after going through the manual. They quoted me 500+ for the check which included topping of fluids, and other regular checks (most of which are already done during an oil change). I have read that this kind of check helps detect problems before the warranty runs out. So how big of a deal is to get this done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="881" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T03:34:45.973" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T20:56:55.497" Title="Is 30k mile maintenance really required?" Tags="|subaru|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1556" CreationDate="2011-07-30T04:27:57.023" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;yes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer seems to hinge on the cost.  The 30K mile service on my 2004 WRX included the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect  Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inspect Camshaft drive belt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Engine oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Engine oil filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perform  Replace engine coolant and inspect cooling system, hoses and connections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended Performance  Replace fuel filter and inspect fuel system, hoses and connections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Air cleaner element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Replace Spark plugs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inspect Transmission/Differential (Front &amp;amp; Rear) lubricants (Gear oil)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replace    Brake fluid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inspect    Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inspect    Brake linings and drums&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perform    Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect  Clutch operation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect  Steering and suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've marked in &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt; above the items on this list that, if improperly inspected or not fixed if there was an issue, could lead to &lt;strong&gt;death&lt;/strong&gt; (and would probably lead to a failed vehicle inspection or MOT).  Bad brakes = very bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've marked in &lt;em&gt;italics&lt;/em&gt; above the items on the list that are a pain / have a larger labor cost associated with them.  For example, I rotate my own tires but I don't pretend that it's fun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is true that some of these things would happen on a regular service, you should consider the fact that you've spent a whole lot of money on this vehicle.  A &quot;major&quot; service is still a fraction of the vehicle's total cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you don't like the quote from your service provider, go to another one and get another quote.  Go with the shop that you trust the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following up: if you're an amateur enthusiast and would like to learn some straightforward car maintenance tasks for fun and profit (or, at least, cost avoidance), here is my suggested subset of the big list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Engine oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Engine oil filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace  Air cleaner element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the above are terribly hard nor are the parts very expensive so they're reasonable learning opportunities.  Also, you can check the detailed service quote and say &quot;please take that off the list, already took care of it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, one way I judge the quality of the shop is their response to that statement is &quot;great, now I'll be done with your car a little quicker.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T15:42:02.857" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T15:42:02.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1627" CreationDate="2011-07-30T20:05:23.243" Score="2" ViewCount="36398" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Dodge neon, it was like sitting in aeroplane and all light are going on and off, what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="865" LastEditDate="2011-08-06T03:50:19.863" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T09:11:17.040" Title="The dash light on my car went on/off while I was driving, what could be the problem?" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2011-07-30T21:46:50.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This actually ended up being a very simple problem. Something so simple that I'm almost in disbelief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has been running nearly straight antifreeze.(I'd say about 90% anyway) Everyone I'd talked to locally has said it should run &lt;code&gt;even cooler&lt;/code&gt; doing that... but they're wrong. I emptied my expansion tank(not the radiator itself) and filled it with straight water. After a day of running it and letting it mix my car is now back to running at 200F and doesn't get hotter while idling or anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to finalize on this ancient question for future viewers.&#xA;Running straight antifreeze was definitely the biggest problem, but not the only one. I never did find the cause, and I sold the car around a year ago because of that and various other looming mechanical problems (ie, would always stall out on first start, etc). Things I did and their results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually use 50/50 water/antifreeze -- had a major result and kept the temps reasonable most of the time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got cooling fans replaced -- was able to keep it cool enough that it survived a 16 hour road trip without too much worrying. If I idled a lot or was in stop/go traffic though it still got warmer than it should.. and a few times the fans would still randomly pop a fuse for some reason. I think the electrics was messed up in some way. Sometimes it'd be getting hotter and hotter, but then turning on the AC instantly cooled it down, indicating the AC fan was keeping the radiator cooler?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;had radiator checked for blockages etc, had the thermometer thing (thing to controls when coolant valve is opened) replaced, etc.. nothing conclusive came of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing I never had done was have the water pump replaced... so maybe that would've been something close to it.. Just before selling it, I had the timing belt &quot;tensioner&quot; or whatever it's called replaced, and I don't recall having any problems after that point with the cooling... but that could've just been coincidence..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So glad to have a new car now that I don't have to worry about breaking down or overheating every time I drive it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="783" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T18:58:59.547" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T18:58:59.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-31T02:18:54.290" Score="7" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might sound strange to be worried about it - but, quite suddenly my car seems to have a lot more &quot;oomph&quot; from out of nowhere. It started when I was getting on the on ramp a few months ago. It seemed like the car was able to produce significantly more power, and it now cuts the power quite suddenly at a certain point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a completely stock 2006 Volvo s40 T5 (turbocharged) with a manual 6 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain why this happened and should I be concerned about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="883" LastEditorUserId="884" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T19:24:57.210" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T19:24:57.210" Title="Sudden performance boost on 2006 volvo s40" Tags="|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-31T04:18:59.220" Score="4" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had intermittent A/C failure on my 92 Civic DX going on for a couple years now. It's clearly an electrical problem. Normally it's solvable by putting some pressure on the control panel, but sometimes not. Once the system cools down (or dry out?), it seems to stay on well. I've recently done some diagnostics and determined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the failure occurs, there's a voltage of about +3 to +9 volts between the blue/red wire out of the control panel (which runs from the A/C switch to the A/C thermostat and eventually the condenser fan relay and A/C clutch relay) and the vehicle body. When it's working, the voltage is +0.8 to +1.8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making a connection from this point to the vehicle body (or any good ground) causes the A/C to come on, and then the compressor clutch engages and disengages as it should according to the A/C thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ground to the control panel has a voltage of +0.5 relative to the vehicle body, but it does not seem to be affected by whether the A/C or fan is on/off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that the connection inside the fan speed switch (which also acts as a master) or the A/C switch, or the wiring between them, is loose or corroded, but I haven't been able to figure out how to remove the control panel to open it up and test it without pulling off the air mix control cable for the heater, and it looks difficult to reconnect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for advice from someone who's experienced similar problems or has ideas for anything else I could try or how to easily take out the control panel. 'til then I'll keep shorting the blue/red wire to ground. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Is it possible this problem is caused by the infamous ICU capacitor issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3089672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3089672&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have several other electrical issues going on: the headlight switch does not work reliably (I'm working around this by putting a jumper between the parking light and headlight fuses in the fusebox so that the parking lights turn on the headlights too) and the wipers sometimes don't work on intermittent mode. Also, some of the lights in the dashboard come and go at random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-03-31T22:32:05.557" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T22:32:05.557" Title="A/C electrical problem on 92 Civic" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1468" CreationDate="2011-07-31T05:19:43.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is the 2.8L engine, I'd be willing to bet that it's lifters.  I have a '97 A4 2.8 quattro and around 140K miles one morning when I went to start it I heard a rattling.  I immediately took it over to our mechanic, less than a mile away.  It was not accompanied by an oil pressure light that I recall, but I really didn't drive it very long, either...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I &lt;strong&gt;believe&lt;/strong&gt; they redesigned the engine shortly after our 1997 to have 4 instead of 2 valves per cylinder, so your engine &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be different from ours.  In our case, we spent a couple of grand for new lifters and camshaft.  If I had it to do over again, I probably would have seriously considered getting a used engine on ebay, especially with a car over 200K miles (since the car isn't worth so much any more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the one lifter that was worn entirely through the top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jafo.ca/oldphotoblog/images/200401/sw-20040107-01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jafo.ca/oldphotoblog/images/200401/sw-20040107-01.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T05:19:43.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-31T07:25:19.417" Score="6" ViewCount="24139" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a 2004 Mazda 6, 2.3 liter 4 cylinder.  When the car is parked, oil doesn't pool underneath.  After driving for about an hour, we need to add about 1-3 quarts.  With this issue, where could the oil possible be leaking from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="886" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T14:55:05.440" Title="oil leaks when driving, not while parked" Tags="|oil|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1568" CreationDate="2011-07-31T10:17:00.933" Score="1" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My OBD shows that I have low fuel pressure in a 1997 Ford Mercury (tracer). Do I have to replace the fuel pump? If so, do I have to replace the whole thing or is it enough to replace just the motor unit?&#xA;What else might cause low fuel pressure reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T19:30:17.533" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T05:59:30.800" Title="Low fuel pressure in Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer" Tags="|fuel-tank|fuel-system|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-31T17:50:40.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandparents have a 2003 Bonneville which has, in the past few months, started to become very wishy-washy with its air conditioning fans. They'll work one day, then not the next. They'll hit a bump in the road and then it will start working. They say its most affected by bumps on the right-hand side of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went out and investigated a little, first deciding to check the fuses. All of the fuses seem to be in good shape, but there are three relays marked &quot;Cooling Fan Relay&quot; in the manual. After giving them a few medium taps with a wrench the air conditioning fan kicked on inside the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're going to try it out for a while and make sure that it continues to work, but assuming that the problem returns--how am I supposed to remove these relays? I tried pulling on them with my hands, but couldn't get them out. They're square, two are gray, one is black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T19:35:15.067" Title="2003 Pontiac Bonneville - How to Remove Relays in Fusebox" Tags="|pontiac|cooling-system|bonneville|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:24:28.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking (not familiar with that model), it could be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad fuel pump (fairly rare, fuel pumps are one thing that usually last forever)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged fuel filter (has it been changed recently/ever?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad fuel pressure regulator (although, they usually fail the opposite way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking fuel injectors (unlikely, would require a pump that's marginal to begin with)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T18:24:28.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1562" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:31:03.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; concerned.  It sounds like the wastegate may possibly be stuck closed, preventing it from bleeding excess pressure, which would allow the car to overboost.  Higher than normal boost will provide better performance, but is likely to do engine damage unless the car has been otherwise modified to accept the higher boost.  Some cars have overboost protection that will do something (cut ignition, cut fuel, etc) when excessive intake pressure is present, so I suspect that's what yours is doing (I'm not familiar with Volvo turbo setups, but have worked with various other turbo cars, both street going and racing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends had some snow get packed up into the wastegate controller on his Eclipse one snowy day...  He reports that the car was incredibly fast merging on the expressway for about 2 seconds, at which point the engine internals became externals as it suffered catastrophic failure (including an oil fire)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T18:31:03.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1577" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:50:49.507" Score="6" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor#History_and_development&quot;&gt;wikipedia entry for carburetor&lt;/a&gt; tells me that the last US domestic carburetted engines were produced in the early to mid-90's. So why does NASCAR still use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they easier to build, repair, or maintain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T11:41:04.903" Title="Why do NASCAR (Sprint) cars still use carburetors?" Tags="|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1567" CreationDate="2011-07-31T19:35:15.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to pull them out with your hands, if it's the kind I am thinking of (in the fuse box under the hood) there is no latch or anything else holding them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T19:35:15.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1565" CreationDate="2011-07-31T19:43:51.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil has a couple of places it can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tail pipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a leak that only happens under pressure (IE the engine running) but for that amount the underside of the car would be covered in oil and should be very obvious by looking under the car with a flashlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's going out the tail pipe you would see obvious blue smoke whenever the car is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's going into the radiator a simple check of the coolant level, color, and quality with let you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T19:43:51.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1542" CreationDate="2011-07-31T21:47:55.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the DIN standard is less and less supported, so it is becoming much harder - you may need to make your own mounting brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of wiring, there are many standards for wiring pin-outs, however the vast majority require just a continuous and a switched 12v in and GND so you can either use an aftermarket adapter kit (mentioned by @Larry) or wire one up yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T21:47:55.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1563" CreationDate="2011-07-31T23:16:26.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how Honda's system works, but for BMW's there was a final stage resistor that would go bad and make the system not work right. The system would either run full speed at all times, or not run, or run whenever it felt like. Replacing this part made the system go back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T23:16:26.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1498" CreationDate="2011-08-01T11:29:03.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally figured out what the problem is here. GM apparently has put in a &quot;PassLock&quot; system that reads something to do with the key on startup. If anything goes wrong (invalid key, electrical problems, etc) the fuel system is disabled for 10 minutes. Just thought I would let everyone know in case this problem comes up again. I have not actually fixed the problem yet, but at least I have it pinpointed to a certain problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="857" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T11:29:03.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2011-08-01T11:41:04.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two main reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Already some races require restrictor plates to keep the speed down, so swapping out the carburetor for modern fuel injection would increase the need for restriction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier to inspect and monitor a carburetor, therefore it is more fair for each team since it is harder to cheat (or at least easier to get caught).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from what I understand they are moving for fuel injection starting in 2012.  Some of the reasons for the move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have developed a &quot;Cheap-proof&quot; unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will allow use of E15 fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T11:41:04.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1592" CreationDate="2011-08-01T14:19:58.310" Score="10" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 F-150 that just went through a car wash.  After the car wash, I immediately noticed that the turning feels reduced/impaired.  Specifically, when I have the steering wheel turned more than one full rotation, it feels like the the tires have gone flat.  I have visually inspected the tires multiple times and they appear to be fine.  I will be checking the pressure today after work.  I am curious as to what could have gone wrong or been broken during the wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&#xA;The wash was an automatic wash with a hand dry and tire shine applied afterward.  It has been more that 24 hours since the wash and the problem still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="890" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T19:48:25.403" Title="Tires stick when turning after a car wash" Tags="|tires|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1565" CreationDate="2011-08-01T18:12:56.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a plastic valve cover, it can become slightly warped over time and oil can end up being forced out under pressure. This is unlikely, as @Larry said it should be rather obvious looking under or into the engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T18:12:56.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-01T19:00:32.220" Score="10" ViewCount="1979" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good place to begin building a kit/set up for performing your own service? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waxing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;detailing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best tools/equipment to start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="881" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:12:37.753" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T15:20:25.717" Title="Car enthusiast beginner tool kit" Tags="|maintenance|tools|safety|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1586" CreationDate="2011-08-01T20:36:53.780" Score="5" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the 2009 Subaru WRX have a TPM (Tire Pressure Monitor) installed?  When I recently changed my tires the installer said it did not have any monitor. &#xA;That made me wonder, how does the low tire pressure indicator light on my dashboard work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="881" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:07:13.143" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:07:49.097" Title="TPM on Subaru WRX" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1580" CreationDate="2011-08-01T21:32:20.860" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer the basic mechanical points, as weighted by my opinion of importance.  I'm leaving out the issue of waxing as potentially too broad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;: These are critical.  Do not proceed down the list without addressing each (at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety glasses&lt;/strong&gt;: Always wear them, especially when you don't think that you need to.  I purchased mine from the local super hardware store for a quite low price.  They're comfortable and not unfashionable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reliable jack and (4) jack stands&lt;/strong&gt;: You should never lift your car with a bad lifting tool.  I have a fairly expensive one that I really like because I liked the feature set and had some tax refund burning a hole in my pocket.  A jack that is rated for less than two tons is not safe to use on any car that I would normally see in the US.  Likewise, each jack stand should be well made, reliable and also rated for at least two tons.  Remember, if you lift your car and get under it, you're under something that &lt;em&gt;wants&lt;/em&gt; to kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel chocks&lt;/strong&gt;: You should never lift your car without immobilizing the wheels.  Putting the car in park and using the parking brake are also necessary but are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sufficient.  If those wheels move, the car could roll off the jack stand and, again, kill you dead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic tools&lt;/strong&gt;: These are tools that you will appreciate having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Socket set&lt;/strong&gt;: I have a nice socket set with a variety of sizes that I purchased from a local auto supply store.  It has a half-inch driver so I feel very comfortable putting a lot of my (modest) muscle into it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque wrench&lt;/strong&gt;: Anything that you disconnect on the car must be reconnected.  They almost always need to be reconnected to a particular torque.  You'll want your torque wrench to fit your socket set.  Otherwise, frustration will ensue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Convenience&lt;/strong&gt;: These are things that you will likely appreciate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nitrile gloves&lt;/strong&gt;: These are similar to rubber gloves but are made of a different material so I find them to be much more comfortable.  These are great for keeping car goop off your skin.  They are also sometimes handy if you're working with something that you didn't realize was as sharp as it really is.  They won't keep you from getting stabbed but when you look down and see that the glove is hanging in shreds, you realize &quot;oh.  I need to be more careful.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T21:32:20.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1542" CreationDate="2011-08-01T21:44:04.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other posters already mentioned, for most popular cars you should be able to get both adapter/mounting plates so you can mount a DIN-sized stereo and the necessary adapters to connect the headunit to the original wiring loom. I would strongly recommend getting the latter rather than butchering the wiring loom as it makes installation and fault finding easier than the home grown 'just crimp them together somehow' approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the speakers should be compatible with the headunit, with one exception - the Bose systems that you find in some cars have a separate amp per speaker and use a different level output at the headunit (and different impedance on the speakers, IIRC they're around 1Ohm). For some cars you can get adapters that allow you to use a 'regular' headunit with a Bose system, for other cars you'll have to pull out the whole thing and replace headunit, speakers and wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T21:44:04.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1580" CreationDate="2011-08-02T00:08:47.730" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, everything &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1580/car-enthusiast-beginner-kit/1582#1582&quot;&gt;Bob said&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Socket Extensions:&lt;/strong&gt; Your socket set may come with 1 or 2 extensions but I'd buy a couple more.  Having different length extensions are invaluable for getting to hard to reach items, plus you can combine them together for a longer extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Socket U-Joint Adapter:&lt;/strong&gt; I never see these in socket sets and you will regret not having 1 or 2 in combination with the extensions. The U-Joints allow you to use a socket wrench on a fastener that you can't get a straight line on. It allows you to gain access from more than a 45 degree off angle. Depending on where you put the U-Joint in the chain also alters the access angles heavily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination Wrench Set:&lt;/strong&gt; Sockets are great for speed but sometimes you just can't get onto a bolt with them and need to use a combination wrench. The box end (end with the fully enclosed circle) is useful for applying more torque, the open end being useful for slipping onto the bolt easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magnetic Pickup Tool:&lt;/strong&gt; You are guaranteed to drop a screw, nut, bolt, etc somewhere that you cannot get your fingers. These are telescoping or snake-necked tools that you can work your way to the item and grab it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Oil Change&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filter Wrench:&lt;/strong&gt; Some filters (like my K&amp;amp;N) do have a standard nut on the end of it so you don't need to use a filter wrench but for the most part, you need one to loosen the oil filter. Sometimes they are a strap wrench that is a rubber strap with a handle, you wrap the strap around the filter and through the handle, then turn. Others are a round piece of metal that is tightened onto the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drain Pan/Bucket:&lt;/strong&gt; You'll need something to catch the oil in.  There are ones with spouts in them which are nice to keep from spilling when transferring into your storage container. Still, you can pull it off with just a simple bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storage Container:&lt;/strong&gt; After you drain the oil, you need a sealing container to transfer the oil to your nearest disposal location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Brakes/Clutch/Other Lines and Bleeders&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flare Wrenches/Line Wrenches:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are going to be wrenching on hydraulic lines you MUST get these wrenches or you will round them off.  If you are only doing bleeding, you can get away with the box end of a combination wrench as you can put it on the bleeder valve before attaching the drain tube and just keep it on as you open and close the valve. See this question too &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1102/how-important-is-it-to-use-a-real-flare-nut-wrench-when-removing-the-fuel-line-on&quot;&gt;How important is it to use a real flare nut wrench when removing the fuel line on an old Ford tractor?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One Man Bleeder:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are going to be bleeding by yourself, you need a bleeding tool. If you will have a helper, you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waxing/Detailing:&lt;/strong&gt; I can offer you a set of videos recorded by a member of my car club when we went to a professional car detailer (he has detailed cars for some of our members before shows in which they've won some very difficult to win awards) for some instruction.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zcluboftexas.org/zcotforum/index.php?topic=191.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Detailing Tech Session Videos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T00:18:43.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2011-08-02T01:10:04.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starter motor turning the engine but no ignition is very commonly caused by corrosion or loose connection at the main ground terminal on the thermostat assembly. This is where the computer and the ignition system (distributor etc.) get their ground. It's located at the end of the lower radiator hose. Take the bolt out and clean the connection well then put it back on and see if this fixes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's also possible that the whole assembly has poor conduction to it if you've had cooling system problems; corrosion may have formed on the back surface of the thermostat housing (where it mounts) especially if the thermostat gasket is worn and some coolant has escaped there. If you've used radiator stop-leak products, they could have made it worse. I'd recommend using a multimeter to check resistance between the negative battery terminal and this ground terminal, and if it's more than a few hundred ohms (wild guess; anyone know what it should be?) try running another ground from a known-good point (or direct from the negative battery terminal) to this terminal. If that fixes it, you'll want to take out the thermostat and clean the surfaces very well, then put it back together with a new gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T01:10:04.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1581" CreationDate="2011-08-02T03:36:31.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They use a rotation sensor, or rotation speed sensor. When the tire looses air it's circumference becomes smaller, so the sensor's signal changes and sets off the light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: See this site for a full explanation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiremonitor.html#start&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Subaru's TPM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:07:49.097" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:07:49.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1589" CreationDate="2011-08-02T04:29:40.023" Score="10" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the middle of a city.  I have a tiny parking spot in an underground parking garage (have to fold the mirrors in just to get in!).  Doing any maintenance is officially verboten, and it wouldn't really be feasible anyway -- there's really no room, poor light, no outlets, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to do a little more maintenance on my own, like oil changes, but I don't have a place to do it.  Is there any type of place that would let someone do basic work on their car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="892" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T05:35:49.237" Title="Where can I go to do basic work on my vehicle?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2011-08-02T04:53:47.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search for hobby shops. Some of the nicer ones have a lift, and tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T04:53:47.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2011-08-02T05:32:11.817" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There do exist these &quot;Fix it Yourself&quot; garages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rent time in a bay with various levels of equipment, with or without a lift, tools, etc.  All affecting the rate of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how prevelant these are in various areas so you will have to try to search one out if it exists near you, here is an example website of one I found searching &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiygarage.com/home/fiy_garage-home.php&quot;&gt;http://www.fiygarage.com/home/fiy_garage-home.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T05:32:11.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1587" CreationDate="2011-08-02T05:35:49.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of vehicle you have, see if there is a local car club to join and get involved in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with my club has been very positive.  We love working on our cars and members understand not everyone has the setup to do so or the knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will likely be members that are happy to help out with the occasional work.  Be willing to help others too though, it isn't a one way street.  Even if you don't have the knowledge, a second pair of hands will make almost any job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T05:35:49.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1580" CreationDate="2011-08-02T09:16:27.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Bob and ManiacZX's answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screwdrivers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good assortment of screwdrivers are essential - including torx or hex bits if your car uses them. Some socket sets include screwdriver bits, which can be very useful. An old long-handled flat driver can often double up as an impromptu pry-bar too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hammer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the above, you'll probably already have a claw hammer in your household toolkit, but a small club hammer can often be useful for shock-loosening stuck bolts (especially on older cars where things have started to sieze)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluids&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the following in stock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Penetrating fluid - for loosening stuck bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WD-40 - for general lubrication&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant - of an appropriate type for your car, for topping up purposes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Oil - For the same reason&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearbox Oil/Transmission Fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake fluid - keep a small, sealed bottle of this for topping up. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water), so don't use an open bottle - only buy it in the quantities you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of those you'll only need to keep in topping-up quantities, buy bigger amounts when it comes to time to change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specialist tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are car-specific, so you'll need to check what you need. In particular, check what you need to remove the oil drain plug - some cars are a simple bolt that you can put a socket on, others use a square one that needs a special tool. If you don't have one yet, buy a workshop manual for your car, and read the section for the job you're about to do through twice before you even open your toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy the best tools you can afford. Most amateur mechanics build up their toolkits over a number of years, gradually adding new things as and when they need them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T09:16:27.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1578" CreationDate="2011-08-02T19:48:25.403" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently one of the car wash employee accidentally put the truck in 4x4 high when cleaning the dash. I didn't notice the indicator and the locking diff was causing the change in handling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="890" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T19:48:25.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T21:14:37.697" Score="6" ViewCount="26696" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I thought I fixed some previous overheating problems but I only helped them. My car was running fine when it was 95F or so over the weekend but now it's 110F outside and my cars cooling system isn't keeping up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2004 Grand AM V6. The radiator was recently replaced with a salvaged one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8D4c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8D4c.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bottom half of the radiator(the top half is difficult to photograph). Is that large row of bent fins possibly the reason it can't keep up? Other than that at the top of the radiator there are a few slightly bent lines. Also, isn't there suppose to be some kind of shield to prevent bugs and such from getting in my radiator? I took this picture outside of my car (the silver bit is the outside body of the car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my radiator trash or is it worth trying to straighten the fins and see if it helps or is it not bad enough to have an effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-12-27T11:36:11.863" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T11:36:11.863" Title="Bent radiator fins -- how many is too many?" Tags="|cooling-system|radiator|grand-am|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1602" CreationDate="2011-08-02T21:39:07.230" Score="13" ViewCount="23234" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1389/getting-started-in-auto-repair-closed&quot;&gt;couple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1394/how-to-get-basic-car-repair-knowledege&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &quot;getting started&quot; questions have been closed (as redundant with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1240/how-to-begin-learning-engine-tuning&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt;), so I hope that my question is different and specific enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning to repair my own cars. Am I likely to have more success if I start with a relatively &quot;basic&quot; engine? Will an older engine require fewer specialized tools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good &quot;starter&quot; car for this type of project? Two ideas that I have thought of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volkswagen type I, II or III (Karmann Ghia/Squareback/Fastback) - I know there are books about old VWs, and lots of information is likely to be found online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1970's diesel Mercedes (e.g., 300D) - Potentially a conversion to grease-car project. But then maybe getting involved with diesel is a bad idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in southern California, so there are likely an abundance of older model cars without too much rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T16:49:18.743" Title="What is a good car to start with if I want to learn auto repair?" Tags="|maintenance|troubleshooting|restoration|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1593" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:11:49.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just having a row of fins slightly bent shouldn't be that bad an issue - what percentage of the radiator is damaged like this? I don't think I have ever had a car with a protective grille in front of the radiator - usually the bugs kill themselves on the radiator fins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is possibly more likely is a build up of sludge in the radiator - an indicative check would be to check the fluid flow through the radiator, or just get it flushed through to see if it helps (relatively cheap and quick to do, so it can be worth doing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or possibly a faulty pump - worth checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:11:49.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:18:35.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got the right idea. Get an older common car, parts will be cheaper and there will be communities of people to help you. They're easier to work on and learn, no scan tools, not a lot of electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your grease conversion, I'm not sure that's a good place to start, especially on that car. You need good basic knowledge and experience before trying to mod and engine to run on grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend something like a 65 mustang. Parts are abundant and cheap and there is a massive following of DIYers that would be glad to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:18:35.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:19:34.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know several people that have had good experiences starting with VW's for basic car repairs.  1g DSMs are another good place to start if you don't mind spending more money to keep it running (it'll be faster though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:19:34.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:40:32.520" Score="2" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get inexpensive wheels for the snow tires that I own (P195/60R15), so that I may put them on my 2003 Saturn Ion.  I know that the wheel's  bolt pattern is 4X100 and I'm looking for a 15X6 wheel, and I've been looking at junkyards for steel or aluminum wheels that will fit the wheel and the car.  I'm pretty sure that older Saturn S series wheels are compatible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any other makes/models of OEM wheels compatible?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that I may have to worry about the &quot;offset&quot;, but I don't know what that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T14:03:25.407" Title="Wheel Compatibility for 2003 Saturn Ion (4X100)" Tags="|wheels|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:05:50.980" Score="1" ViewCount="3168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty, gasoline V8 5.4L, automatic transmission, rear-wheel-drive.  When driving on the highway, a burning rubber smell developed.  I got the truck home, then to the shop, as soon as practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to this burning rubber smell, there had been some noticeable issues with steering, reminiscent of a problem with tie-rod ends.  The repair shop thought these two issues were related, and they determined that there was a problem with the wheel bearings and the grease surrounding them.  The deficiency in grease, they thought, was causing the burning rubber smell and the steering issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After their repair, the steering issues are much better.  However, the burning rubber smell remains, and it seems to be coming more from the engine compartment anyway.  The belt appears to be fine -- no noticeable wear and tear, etc.  What else could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="895" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T17:59:31.430" Title="Burning rubber smell from Ford F-250 -- diagnosis?" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|smell|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:24:02.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned much of what I know on a 1994 Acura Integra when it wasn't new but definitely was less than 10 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start simple: most maintenance tasks are dead boring.  Changing oil is not exciting but is very valuable.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know the costs of your mistakes.  If I fail to tighten down my oil filter properly, I'm going to have a mess in my garage and have to go buy more oil.  I generally don't do anything on my own which could lead to costly or dangerous situations if I mess it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the manuals.  You'll find that you almost never crack them open until you really &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need them right now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hook up with a community, even if only as a lurker.  I'm a long-time subscriber to &lt;a href=&quot;http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grassroots Motorsports&lt;/a&gt;.  Their community is wide and deep.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, I am loving working on my WRX.  The community support is great and the layout is simple and common between the other Subaru platforms (of which the extended family has three in town, putting me in the on-call support position ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:24:02.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:28:31.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a Toyota Land Cruiser 87 with a diesel a couple of month back. I wanted to learn how to wrench. My criteria were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple, no electronics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room to work around, I didn't want something too crowded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good online/offline communities(Forums,clubs, vendors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parts prices and availability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I didn't really follow was the parts price, I bought the truck on a heartbeat ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with all the basics tasks, get the factory shop manual for your car. It's like a recipe to everything you need to know. Get your hands dirty, this is the fastest way to learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:28:31.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-08-03T05:42:41.713" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say there are many pros and cons for newer and older as a starter (I went older, 84 Nissan 300ZX Turbo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Newer&lt;/strong&gt; (lets say 15 years or newer so we are talking about 1996+ which should have ODB2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OEM Parts Availability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More Cars in Junk Yard to pull parts from (dependent on production numbers, but still more than older models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less wear and tear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ODB2 to get feedback of vehicle status&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less drum brakes!!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More electronics, depending on your background, you may have catching up to do on the tech as well as the mechanical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complexity of systems, safety and emission regulations have added A LOT of equipment to newer vehicles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine bay space, almost always when comparing a new and old model the old model looks to have a huge cavernous engine bay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Originality/Lack of Nostalgia, more of them on the road makes you less special, not a mechanical issue but I think it impacts how much you care about the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Older&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Well, most of the above for the newer, just reverse the pros and cons and those are the Older list primarily.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that seems to be heavily debated is Carburetor VS Fuel Injection (FI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you learn on FI, then carburetors are a mysterious beast that make no sense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you learn on carburetors, then FI is a mysterious beast that makes no sense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say, get what peaks your interest the most, that is what you are going to care about the most and have the desire to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find a Car Club&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Having an active car club community for the vehicle is my biggest recommendation I can give as far as a deciding factor. Look for one that hosts Tech Sessions or Garage Days or whatever name they come up with. These are events organized by club members to get together and work on their cars. It can be one person's car accomplishing a specific project (mine has done the clutch package on my car, suspension on another members, adjustable sway bars, brake pads and bleeding, etc) or it can be everyone showing up with tools and intended projects to accomplish and sharing knowledge and assistance accomplishing the projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car club should be very welcoming if it is a good community.  You can visit their meeting as a guest before you've even purchased a car to get to meet some people, get an idea of what the community is and ask them about advice on picking the car (someone may even know of a good one for sale). They will be far better information resources on the specific vehicle then we could ever try to be.  Also see if they have any public events, car shows, cruises, etc that you can go and see their cars all prettied up and on display. This is another great time to talk to them and get more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look through my other answers on the site regarding learning you will notice a common theme of, along with specific advice, I mention getting into a car club. I've only been actively doing my own car repairs and maintenance since the beginning of this year. I had bought my car last year and joined the local Z club. In March we started doing monthly-ish (whenever we have time and a project) Tech Sessions starting on the clutch, flywheel and adjoining bits and pieces on my car. So my first ever car project was dropping the transmission in my car. Having the knowledge and support of 3-4 fellow club members and a fully stocked garage for the 13 hour project was invaluable. No matter how much reading, forum searching, etc I had done I couldn't have pulled the job off myself (If I had read online to get the transmission to line back up you had to wiggle the transmission jack back and forth sideways while pushing forward to get it to rotate to line up the splines to slide back in, I wouldn't have believed it, but that is what we had to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through the Tech Sessions with my club, now I've been able to do a lot of work on my car myself (after we did a fellow members brake pads and bled the brakes, I went home and did it on mine) and am able to be sharing my experience with people here because of what I've learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T18:43:07.943" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:43:07.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1599" CreationDate="2011-08-03T07:31:23.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few different rubber hoses in the average engine bay - have you check to make sure none are in contact with anything hot? Especially any that run near to the exhaust manifold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, if you can get under it, check the entire exhaust to make sure nothing is in contact with it that shouldn't be. You've mentioned the belt which would have been my next suspect - I presume you've also checked any extra ancillary belts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T07:31:23.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1598" CreationDate="2011-08-03T07:46:10.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'offset' is the distance between the mounting face of the wheel (i.e. the bit that sits against the hub) and the centreline of the wheel. A positive offset is where the mounting face is towards the outside of the wheel, and negative is set towards the inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if you get wheels that are more positive than the current ones, they will sit further in on the car (and may rub on the suspension), and ones that are more negative will sit further out (and may rub on or stick out of the arches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you need to be aware of is the centre bore - the size of the hole in the middle. Many cars are designed so that the wheel sits over a slight stub on the face of the hub, which takes some of the load off of the wheel bolts. If your new wheels have too large a bore, that won't happen and you risk damaging the bolts - obviously if the wheels have too small a bore they simply won't fit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4x100 is a common pattern here in Europe, particularly 90s hatchbacks, but I don't know about the states. I suspect there are websites around listing common patterns - there is certainly at least one for UK-spec cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T07:46:10.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="864" CreationDate="2011-08-03T18:53:42.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md2425.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this(1965-67 MOPAR BIG BLOCK W/O AC ALTERNATOR BRACKET SET)&lt;/a&gt; work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:53:42.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1402" CreationDate="2011-08-03T19:00:48.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the window regulators begin to fail, a window will also do this. I doubt a motor failure will do this, as the motor will be very unlikely to be moved by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/featured/wipers_-and-_windows/1461458509.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda CRV 1997 - 2001 Replacement Window Regulator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T19:14:51.513" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T19:14:51.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:48:26.010" Score="3" ViewCount="9442" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past few rides, I think my 2007 Ninja 250 has been running hotter than before.  At least, I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it feels hotter through the seat, but the oil temperature gauge seems to be pointing pretty much where it always has (1/3 of the way up from C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put on about 200 miles since I bought it, and I cleaned and lubed the chain (it &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; getting kind of grungy), but that doesn't seem to have had any effect.  The oil level seems fine.  My mechanic checked it out when I bought it, and declared it like-new, so I don't think there's anything disastrous going on here.  Apart from feeling warmer than before, it rides just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my engine screaming out for an oil change, or something like that?  Or is this just a consequence of riding in warm summer weather, and as long as the oil temperature gauge doesn't flip out I'm fine?  Or is the oil temperature gauge the authoritative measure of what's going on with the engine, and I'm just imagining all this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After I shut it off, I hear the fan come on for a minute, and then turn off. I don't know what cooling systems there are but that one seems to be operating.  That might lend support to the &quot;just being paranoid&quot; theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="899" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T22:24:48.967" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T10:20:49.717" Title="Motorcycle engine running a bit hot?" Tags="|motorcycle|overheating|heat|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2011-08-04T03:45:14.443" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the engine isn't liquid cooled as the newer models are? It's very unusual to have an oil temp gauge on a bike, most likely it's a coolant temperature gauge. The fact it's got a coolant fan would suggest it's liquid cooled, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd check the level of the coolant to see if it's a little low, just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple explanation might well be that it's either warmer than it was when you rode the bike initially or that you're using the right hand a little more, which will create additional heat. A lot of bikes feel like the rider is being cooked at standstill in summer so if all the fluid levels are OK and it's not misbehaving in any other way, it's probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T03:45:14.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1610" CreationDate="2011-08-04T09:39:59.013" Score="2" ViewCount="6580" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, my Honda Accord 1998 V6 EX's &quot;check engine&quot; light came on. Since then, the engine experiences instability during idle. At stop lights, I can hear the engine having trouble stay running -- it sounds like as if it would stall at any moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To diagnose the problem, I bought an On-board Diagnostics (OBD-II) scanner and extracted the trouble code: P0108 (Description: MAP Pressure Circuit High Input).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing some research, here's what I've found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Certain more advanced scan tools (not the one I bought) can display real-time MAP pressure readings from the ECM (engine control module) and this reading can be used to determine whether or not there's a vacuum leak, loose wiring, or defective MAP sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Without the scan tool, one can use a multimeter and hand-held vacuum pump/gauge to determine whether or not the MAP sensor is defective.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #1, I don't know which scan tool is able to do this and for #2, I don't know how to use a multi-meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to diagnose/fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="901" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T11:02:53.043" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T15:11:47.823" Title="How to fix Accord 1998 EX V6 OBD-II trouble code &quot;P0108&quot; -- MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Pressure Circuit High Input?" Tags="|engine|honda|cel|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1609" CreationDate="2011-08-04T15:11:47.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of your local mechanics should have the sort of (expensive) scan tool that can display the sensor information. I'd get it diagnosed there - if you're not confident using a multimeter and poking electronics that's probably the quicker way to get a diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T15:11:47.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1620" CreationDate="2011-08-04T17:51:53.943" Score="2" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to replace the suspension in my 2000 Chrysler Neon, and I'm trying to obtain the parts myself to save a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was quoted $250 a corner ($1000 parts) for parts only using a combo shock/spring from Monroe which seems high to me, since I was able to find a Monroe Sensa Trac combo shock/spring for $200 a pair ($400 parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a life expectancy of 2-3 years tops, as the vehicle is already over 240,000 km (144,000 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise if the Sensa Trac combo parts (#181580 and #171578) should meet this life expectancy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="844" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T11:59:14.290" Title="2000 Neon Suspension - Monroe Parts Life Expenctancy" Tags="|suspension|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1599" CreationDate="2011-08-04T17:59:31.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what Nick said, burnt oil also creates the burnt rubber smell.  Check if there's an oil leak that could be hitting hot exhaust parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T17:59:31.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1611" CreationDate="2011-08-04T18:12:35.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's actually worn? Are the original springs damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the wear part is the shock absorber so unless you're trying to achieve other goals at the same time (like improving the handling/lowering so it'll hit every speed bump etc), I don't think it makes a whole lot of sense to change out struts and springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that Monroe makes a bunch of different types of shock absorbers, you might not be comparing apples with apples here - you really need to know which type/model your $1k quote was for in order to find out if it was high. They might have just quoted you a different type...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite what people say, 144k Miles on a modern car isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; much, I'd expect you have more than 2-3 years life left in it. You don't state what sort of mileage you do in a year but I would expect a quality shock to last at least 50k miles under normal driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T18:12:35.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2011-08-04T21:00:27.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are not burning your mixture in the vertical cylinder, and the warmth is transfer from the horizontal cylinder. The vibration is usually can be caused by said dead cylinder, and the difference in force in the strokes creates an off balance in your crankshaft. This happens in motor vehicles as well, and its normally caused by a lack of combustion. Is the cylinder getting fuel? Maybe that's why you don't smell it, and explains the lack of combustion. Your checks back up the theory, since the bike dies when the horizontal cylinder is taken away. I recommend investigating the parts that cause the combustion (plug, fuel, or compression). Once the guilty party is identified, it should resolve all your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T21:00:27.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1228" CreationDate="2011-08-04T21:07:54.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I recall right, those vehicles have a lot of vacuum hoses. Vacuum is only really utilized during idle, hence the disappearance of your problem. The sputtering is likely related to a dying vehicle, and as you accelerate it is able to keep running. Open your hood, and start looking at all the rubber hoses; compress them with your hand slightly and you can feel the ones that are in the process of dry rotting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T21:07:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1315" CreationDate="2011-08-04T21:29:06.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you a lift available? See if you can lift the vehicle just enough to clear the tires from the ground, and try to duplicate the problem. Check for any vacuum leaks, and also wiggle the ECCS wire harness and see if you can induce the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T21:29:06.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1618" CreationDate="2011-08-04T21:40:48.647" Score="5" ViewCount="2572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 7 month old car that was sideswiped when a driver drifted into my lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2011 Ford Focus with a metallic gray exterior.  It should all be covered by the other driver's Allstate policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage is minor.  The right front tire took the majority of the hit, with damage largely confined to the right front quarter panel and the right front door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front bumper took a very small, very glancing scrape on its right side.  No real damage, it looks to me like a few scuff marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to two body shops, one a Ford dealer, and one an Allstate preferred body shop.  And both gave me similar but in two senses very different estimates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My basic question is: how do I determine which body shop will a better job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now related to the general question of how to determine whether a body shop will do a good job or not is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the estimators told me of the importance of keeping the original bumper and repainting it.  And that was because that bumper would have a VIN number stamped on it, and the replacement would not, and that would be a flag for future buyers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the other estimator didn't make a big deal of it, and just said it would be replaced, and of course, with Ford parts since it is a relatively new Ford vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimator replacing the bumper included in his estimate costs to repaint portions of the hood to blend it in with the new bumper.  Similarly, there would be some blending of the &lt;em&gt;rear&lt;/em&gt; passenger door to match that to the repair work on the front passenger door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other estimator may have included work on the rear door by writing on the front door work, &quot;Overlap major adj. panel&quot; -- but I am not sure what exactly that refers to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my other questions are: repair parts with VIN numbers or replace them? And worry about overlap/blending in the estimate or don't worry about that stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how do I determine whether a body shop is any good, and which of two is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="592" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T09:30:21.373" Title="How can I tell which body shop is better? Replacing or repairing parts with VIN numbers" Tags="|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2011-08-04T22:16:00.567" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely worry about the quote including blending in of the paint (or the lack thereof). With metallic paint, if you only paint the panel that is getting replaced, you will be able to see that the panels seem to be a different color under certain light because the reflection of the metallic particles in the paint occurs at a different angle between the freshly painted and the OEM painted panels. This is basically caused both by different paint thicknesses and different drying times between the OEM paint and the paint the bodyshop puts down and you cannot really avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're taking front fender and a door, you need to blend in the paint on the bumper if they don't replace that (which means the paint would have to be blended into the other side's front fender, too) and on the rear door/rear panel. If the window frame on the front door is also the same paint, chances are that some blending into the roof is required, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are that a history check like Autocheck or CarFax will show that the vehicle was involved in an accident, thus I wouldn't worry too much about a buyer noticing that the bumper has been replaced. I'd go for the option that leaves you with the car looking to be in the same condition than it was before, be it achieved by replacing or repairing parts. Just make sure that you get a good quality repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T22:16:00.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2011-08-05T11:43:22.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To you question of finding which body shop is better.  If everything was equal I would always pick an independent body shop over a dealer.  In my experience dealers typically are overpriced and don't show as much care for a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your situation, I would suggest looking for reviews of both places.  Look at the addresses in Google Maps and see if someone has posted place page reviews.  Search online for other reviews.  If you are at the shop ask them if there is a repaired vehicle on the lot that you could take a look at.  If they have something look closely at the paint and how each body panel lines up in the affected area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T11:43:22.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1611" CreationDate="2011-08-05T11:59:14.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 181580 is a &quot;cheaper&quot; version of the 171578.   They both should definitely last 3 years or much longer, but the 171578 would cost more and might last longer than the 181580.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not those are only one side/corner of the vehicle.  You don't want two of the 171579.  Specifically the 171579 is the right rear, whereas the 171578 is what you would need for the left rear.  Also the 171580 is for the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T11:59:14.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1623" CreationDate="2011-08-05T12:34:12.663" Score="1" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I just suffered 100% damage on my Daewoo Lanos (thank God nobody got seriously injured)  and I want to remove as much usable components from it as I can before I sell it. One of them is Sony CDX-GT500 radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what kind of tools do I need to remove it and what would be the procedure? I don't have its manual, so I can't check the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="531" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T15:21:57.187" Title="How do I remove car radio?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1621" CreationDate="2011-08-05T12:51:29.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not know what your center console looks like, you likely need to remove the trim around the radio. Trim is normally popped in with clips, and can be removed easily in most cases. The radio can be held in with either clips, or screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&amp;amp;EntryID=88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to remove a Daewoo Lanos car stereo - (Most Models) &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T15:21:57.187" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T15:21:57.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1621" CreationDate="2011-08-05T13:46:33.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is anything like the Sony radio I have, it it held in by a pair of sprung clips, one either side of the radio. It then comes with a set of removal tools consisting of a pair of flat blades (although you could use any suitable thin, stiff flat object such as a metal ruler). To remove it you slide these blades down the sides of the radio, and apply an outward pressure to unlatch the clips, then withdraw the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounting cage can then be removed from the dash by un-bending the small tabs that hold it in position - these should be obvious once the radio is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T13:46:33.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="589" CreationDate="2011-08-05T15:46:21.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this helps, but for BMW Z3s they made a kit that allowed for you to just basically plug it in. I installed one once, and remember the kit costing like a couple of hundred bucks. I recommend going to dealership, get estimate, and then see if it has a part number you can cross reference for the kit to see if there are cheaper options online, or just buy the dealers kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T15:46:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2463" CreationDate="2011-08-06T02:27:30.203" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of removing the lift blocks from my 2000 silverado z71. Now that I'm ready to install new ubolts I've realized that the driveshaft and axle have slipped backwards away from the transmission. As a result, the pin on the bottom of the leaf springs no longer line up with the hole on the top of the axle plate. I can't seem to find a way to push the rear axle forward so that the pin and hold will line up. Any ideas? I don't have a lift at my disposal, just a jack and 2 jack stands. Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="909" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T02:11:30.373" Title="Installing ubolts - How to push the slip joint forward" Tags="|chevrolet|suspension|axle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2011-08-06T03:40:28.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit confused by your question, but I am going to attempt to guess...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your actual axle moved back:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put a block in the front to keep tires from rolling, lift the rear of the truck, place on jack stands, and use the jack(Assuming its on wheels) to maneuver the axle until aligned where you want it. The jack stands will keep the truck airborne, and then you can use a alignment tool(read screwdriver) to do what you need to. Remember to be safe when pulling on heavy parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T03:40:28.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2011-08-06T03:49:11.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer: They say once the car starts the battery is no longer needed but in fact it is! That is what I found after this experience. The battery terminal was loose so on the way battery got disconnected. As a result, the dashboard lights were going on and off during my 1 mile journey. I don't exactly remember how the engine was doing but it was scary. If you see a problem like this, check the battery connection. And yes battery is required even after you start your car. This is valid for newer cars 1998 onward. The older car might run ok as one comment says, since they don't have a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T03:49:11.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1532" CreationDate="2011-08-06T03:56:18.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light was on and it indicated 3 problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EGR Valve&#xA;O2 Sensor&#xA;Leak somewhere&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check it in two stores + my mechanic and the codes were consistent in all places. We though the problem is probably with electrical wiring since almost all causes show in AutoZone tips showed one reason as poor electrical connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago my battery died and my car will not start even if i drove it a couple of miles with a jump start. Got a new battery and check engine light disappear. All three codes clear for now but I will go to inspection and will re-edit this answer if my emission fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-08-06T18:01:42.287" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T18:01:42.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2011-08-06T11:10:57.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto transmissions are designed to operate similarly to manual transmissions.&#xA;If you are coasting with an automatic transmission, all you are doing is the same as when you coast with a manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It cannot damage the box if the engine is running and your transmission pump is working.&#xA;But the downside is: do not try to put it into D when in high speed, because that can burn your clutches gradually by making them slip when they are engaging at high speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And that will make a hole in your pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically it cannot damage the box, but is better to follow the guidelines in your vehicle's manual for your own safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit to original answer, theoretically you are giving out incorrect information. it can and most likely will damage the auto trans if it is towed, if you don't know the correct answer then don't say)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T02:47:56.147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T02:47:56.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1631" CreationDate="2011-08-06T13:49:16.467" Score="5" ViewCount="3712" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new mower says not to use E85 gasoline.  What is E85 gasoline, why should I avoid it, and how do I know if I'm buying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="483" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T14:20:06.327" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T14:20:06.327" Title="What is E85 gasoline and how can I avoid it?" Tags="|fuel-system|ethanol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1630" CreationDate="2011-08-06T14:38:20.360" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's going to be marked as 'E85' on the pump. It's not that common - I've probably seen one gas station in Vegas that sold it, plus up here in Northern NV I know of one or two stations that sell it - and you'll notice that it's cheaper than regular gas usually. Plus the pumps usually carry large warning stickers, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a blend of up to 85% Ethanol with at least 15% gasoline. The exact mixture tends to vary a bit (IIRC there's usually more gasoline in it during winter as that improves starting). The main problem with it is that the stochiometric ration for E85 is much lower compared to pure gasoline (around 9:1 air/fuel instead of 14.7:1) so an engine that isn't set up to run E85 will run massively lean. That's the main reason your mower suggests it doesn't want to be run on E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just get regular gas at your local gas station you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T14:38:20.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1630" CreationDate="2011-08-06T16:47:27.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;E85 in the most part tends to be common in the Midwest mainly because that's where corn is grown the most, so it's much less costly to ship to stations/refineries. E85 is a fairly new fuel made from 85% ethanol (corn) and 15% crude oil. GM was one of the first companies to embrace it on the consumer side through their FlexFuel vehicles, however it's been common for trucks and buses which are fairly easy to modify to use biodisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E85 doesn't pack as much power as true gas which is why it's only usable in modified engines, and also it provides a bit less milage, although per gallon it's cheaper at the pump than regular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, if a gas station is carrying E85, it will likely have it's own pump (similar to how Diesel is separate from the regular/plus/premium tanks) and the price will likely look ridiculously low -- i.e. a gas station near me had the E85 price where Regular normally would be, so at first glance you thought the Regular gas was $3.00 and the $3.85 price was for premium, but it really was regular)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of popularity, in New York I've seen it at some stations along the LIE (one of the busiest highways on Long Island, especially for trucks) but I have yet to see it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T16:47:27.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2011-08-06T17:08:32.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this isn't a scientific test, from experience I've found that using Gumout or Berrymans B-12 (which is much cheaper but very effective) every 3,000 miles has been fairly effective at keeping my engine cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've confirmed this because last year when changing the oil on my fathers car, I decided to run SeaFoam (another excellent fuel system cleaner -- although it's $9 a can so I save it for oil change time) through my father's Ford Thunderbird intake. It's a fairly common use of Seafoam as it's a pretty simple DIY thorough cleaning of your car's fuel system which is much more thorough than just adding the fluid through the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After adding the Seafoam, I ran the car for a test drive and literally a massive plume of smoke was shooting out of the car's exhaust like it was a drag racer. The smoke actually was all of the gunk in the fuel intake system, which was being removed by the SeaFoam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after doing the Thunderbird, I did the same procedure on my Toyota Avalon which I've been adding Gumout or B-12 (depends on what's on sale) every 3,000 miles and when I did the Seafoam run, after a small plume of smoke for a few seconds, my car's exhaust literally was clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your mileage might vary based on your driving style and car type, however at the least have a look at Seafoam because it's used all the time for the crankshaft, fuel intake, and fuel system -- and on virtually all car forums that's the cleaner of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For routine (every 3,000 miles) cleanings, I'd just add a can of Berrymans B-12 (usually costs $3 a can) or go with Gumout if it's on sale. Just make sure it's the fuel system cleaner and not fuel injector cleaner as the latter allows deposits to build up after adding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, despite the success story, I will point out that if you're having fuel system problems of a serious nature (i.e. the check engine light, misfiring, very clogged injectors, etc) going to a mechanic is a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T17:08:32.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1636" CreationDate="2011-08-06T22:27:03.750" Score="5" ViewCount="8158" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Toyota Corolla recently started smelling very foul whenever the air system was turned on.  According to the research I've done online, there is no cabin air filter to change.  The glove box seems unable to be removed, so I can't see behind that very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership where I bought the car is not in the town (or even the state) where I live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The research I've already done claims there is no cabin air filter for a 2001 Toyota Corolla, but I can't figure out why it smells so foul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me advice on what action I should take?  Also, if you suggest that I take it into some sort of shop, how much should this cost?  At the Toyota dealership here in town, it costs $87 for a diagnostic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note:  The car smells poor because it's somewhat unclean, but there is a very distinct and very strong bad smell from the vents whenever the air is turned on.  The smell comes from both the A/C and heat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:17:30.513" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:17:30.513" Title="toyota corolla 2001 air duct smell" Tags="|toyota|ac|troubleshooting|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T00:13:20.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1649" CreationDate="2011-08-07T00:14:24.343" Score="2" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a good source to get a crate motor. I've tried some google searches but only found motors with high milage on them. I'm trying to decide on getting a crate or just rebuilidng existing motor. Currently has 110k but has an oil leak and it was abused in it's previous life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sources on a long block crate? I'm hoping for under $1k shipped. It's a 2004 Dodge Neon RT non turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a spare vehicle so the car can be down for a period of time. Would a speed shop do the work for me? What would be a good price for a rebuild having a shop do the removal/install too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T18:27:11.643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T18:27:11.643" Title="Crate motor for 2004 Dodge Neon" Tags="|engine|dodge|neon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1634" CreationDate="2011-08-07T02:11:05.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have mildew in the ventilation system.  We've discussed similar situations a few times before: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/116/why-does-my-a-c-blow-foul-smelling-air-when-it-first-turns-on&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1433/stuff-coming-out-from-my-ac&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  You probably want to check those questions and decide whether what they describe applies to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, you are correct: the Corolla did not get a cabin filter until 2002.  That's annoying but isn't a show-stopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first step, I would try running the heater at maximum with the system set to air conditioning.  That sounds crazy but the goal is to eliminate moisture that is likely trapped in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, clean the car out - there's a good chance that a dirty car has mildew in the floor mats and such.  Get those out in the sun and wash them off.  Vacuum out the interior if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you don't see improvement from both of those, proceed as seems best.  Here's what I would do next:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go looking for places where you can rig up a filter to substitute for the lack of another.  I wouldn't think of this as a permanent fixture - just something to reduce the spore count.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, our local big hardware store sells HEPA furnace filters for fairly cheap.  Those are easily cut to whatever size seems appropriate.  You can affix a square of filter material to the outside of the air conditioning recirculation intake using duct tape, if nothing else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, that would be a bit ghetto.  Still, you would be pulling the air through a filter and that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; reduce the spore count over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, you'll see sufficient progress that you won't have to open up the whole vent system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T02:11:05.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1638" CreationDate="2011-08-07T04:29:56.660" Score="3" ViewCount="40948" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car battery to be charged is a DIN66 which I think is about 65ah. I have a Motorcycle charger which says it can be used on cars; it suits batteries from 4 ah to 40 ah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that it can also be used on a bigger battery but it will take longer, or should we just go and get a car charger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: charger is 12V - 2amp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="913" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T05:55:37.440" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T13:13:00.870" Title="Can I charge a Car Battery with a Motorcycle charger?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1637" CreationDate="2011-08-07T07:50:47.727" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically any source of DC 13-13.8 volts can be used to charge a car battery, and even just 12 volts should get it up enough that you can start the engine and charge the rest of the way from the alternator. I've even used a 12 volt wall-wart before, but it took a while. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T07:50:47.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1637" CreationDate="2011-08-07T16:57:47.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, but you'll have to be patient. There's nothing inherent in a charger that makes it suitable only for motorcycles or cars, although you'll have to be careful with using a 'car' charger on a motorcycle battery to insure the motorcycle battery doesn't get charged too fast and that the charger used is suitable for the battery type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T16:57:47.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-07T17:45:55.673" Score="3" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several of the line-items in my motorcycle's maintenance schedule are marked &quot;K&quot;, for &quot;Should be serviced by an authorized Kawasaki Dealer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example items are &quot;Brake fluid--change&quot; and &quot;Steering stem bearing--lubricate&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just CYA on their part, or is it really a good idea to find a Kawasaki dealer for these?  I bought the bike used, and have only ever taken it to an independent service shop before, or done (very minor) work myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it reasonable to believe that an independent service shop who can work on Kawasaki bikes will be just as qualified to do &quot;K&quot; items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="892" LastEditorUserId="892" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T02:42:04.533" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T19:02:44.423" Title="Is it important to get &quot;K&quot; work done by a dealer?" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|dealer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1640" CreationDate="2011-08-08T00:25:00.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the independent service shop is doing good work, the items you've mentioned certainly don't need the attention of a Kawasaki dealer. It's pretty much all standard stuff and you don't need normally need any special Kawasaki tools for either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tempted to say that an independent shop tends to live by its reputation more than a main dealer, so you'll get as good a service there, if not better. For some really specialised jobs you might have to go to the dealer, but not in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T00:25:00.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1644" CreationDate="2011-08-08T02:31:22.400" Score="7" ViewCount="4385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to determine whether a water pump needs to be replaced before it fails completely? I realize that if it dies, then I'm not going to get far. Am I better off waiting until it does than trying to replace it before that happens? I know it's going to be a fairly expensive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Corolla with 125,000 miles. Could the water pump last another 125,000 miles? I realize that it could die tomorrow, but how likely is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="686" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:56:48.597" Title="Is there any way to determine when a water pump will fail?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|water-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2011-08-08T03:01:24.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're asking several questions at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the symptoms of failure, you don't give a lot of information about your specific car.  However, some basics always apply: leaks (especially at the bottom of the timing belt cover) and basic failure to move the coolant (are you overheating this summer?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of cost, you're looking at a fairly labor-intensive replacement.  Have you already replaced the timing belt?  That is in the same vicinity as the water pump and, if the mechanic is already replacing the timing belt, that's a good time to take care of the water pump itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, in terms of consequences, this part is in the category of things that can bring your trip to a halt.  No water pump = no coolant = no driving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, water pumps generally don't fail catastrophically, exploding in a cloud of coolant vapor.  That said, it's going to go eventually.  If you're lucky it will last for a while.  Time to start setting a little cash aside for the eventual replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T03:01:24.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2011-08-08T12:05:34.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Impossible to say.  I can only offer my own anecdotal Toyota experience.  I had to have the engine rebuilt on my MR2 at 180,000 miles (due to oil pump failure).  The original water pump was still working fine, no leaks, no problems at all at that point.  However, since the whole engine was out and being rebuilt, we replaced it.  At my 240,000 mile timing belt change, my mechanic (very experienced, and a friend as well) went ahead and replaced the water pump again as a preventative measure as he says that it's rare for Toyota water pumps to make it past 90,000 miles...  YMMV I guess.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T12:05:34.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1226" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:55:29.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The system might have a fuse that powers the OBDII stuff, and it might be blown. I have seen this happen on BMWs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:55:29.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:56:48.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2006 Camry, and just crossed 95K miles. Although the pump did not fail, it did start foaming around the gasket so I had that taken care of before it got bad. I foresee seals, and gasket failing before the pump does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:56:48.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1640" CreationDate="2011-08-09T12:04:36.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An independent shop that is good will be more than capable of taking care of your basic services. The only time they might not be able to help, and send you to the dealer is in a more involved problem that might require Kawasaki specific tools. Even then, they might have the tools required as Kawasaki bikes are very popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T12:04:36.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1635" CreationDate="2011-08-09T12:09:05.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only people I can think of that would carry a crate motor are the dealers, or an authorized Mopar distributor. Not sure if it can be had anywhere else, and still be affordable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T12:09:05.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1653" CreationDate="2011-08-09T17:46:15.403" Score="4" ViewCount="4612" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every morning, or after the car has sat for a while, there is a loud clank from the engine area when I shift it into reverse.  Sometimes I hear the same clank when shifting into drive, but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it into the mechanic thinking it was something to do with the transmission. He said the transmission is fine and that the noise is coming from the &quot;drivetrain spacer&quot; and it'll cost $500 to fix. He also said that fixing it is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here are my questions.... what does this spacer actually do? Should I bother fixing it? Will something wear out faster if I don't fix it? Will it affect performance, fuel efficiency, safety, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE: 2017-Mar-15]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I finally got rid of my 2004 Mazda, mostly because it was so rusted it became unsafe to drive. It did me well: 13 years &amp;amp; 286,000 km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem in this question never resulted in anything breaking. Nothing in the engine, transmission or drivetrain failed because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastEditorUserId="145" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T18:50:08.800" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T18:50:08.800" Title="2004 Mazda 3 - clank when shifting into reverse" Tags="|noise|automatic-transmission|drivetrain|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-09T18:37:14.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old car (1990 Volvo 240) which I am rather attached it. Lately it seems like it has been creaking and groaning rather more than usual. Is there some sort of spring cleaning(except it's a 20 year cleaning) that I could get for the car and give it a couple more years? I get it its oil changes and I keep up the inspections, but I feel like it could use a refresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat clueless about cars, so the whole question may be out there. Can you help me put words to my thinking? Also, if there is some sort of maintenance that fits the description, any idea of how much it would cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Any tag ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS: 150k milage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastEditorUserId="921" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:24:43.210" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:24:43.210" Title="Giving an old car a refresh" Tags="|maintenance|volvo|old-cars|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1637" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:26:54.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connecting a lead-acid battery to a dumb charger and leaving it there for a long time is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is to charge a starter battery to the point where it will &lt;strong&gt;start an engine&lt;/strong&gt;, then the other answers are correct: you can use a smaller charger to get enough energy in there to do the job of starting. Be careful not to overcharge. Once the engine is started, you can let the alternator do its job and charge the rest of the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternator's regulator controls what voltage comes out, to satisfy the needs of the electrics in the vehicle and to charge the battery. However, when the alternator is turning very slowly, the voltage will be low regardless of the regulator. Thus, in most vehicles the battery won't charge at idle. Hence, the advice to drive at highway speeds to recharge the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead-acid batteries like to be charged in a very specific way. They can absorb an enormous amount of energy, very fast, up to around 80% charge, then you have to back off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRmOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of building a small computer to control charging rates, most regulators take a very simple approach to charging, which means you'll never quite get the maximum charge and maximum life out of a battery. It is possible to install a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amplepower.com/products/sarv3/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smart regulator&lt;/a&gt;, but at $500 it's not worth it in a car. (It may be worth it for off-grid boats, RVs, and houses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T19:26:54.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2011-08-09T21:19:17.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;spacer&quot; would also be referred to as a mount, bracket, bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OEM ones are usually rubber and wear out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mount he is referring to could be on the transmission or the differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, mine has a &quot;thud&quot; sometimes when shifting gears coming from my differential (comes from the rear as mine is RWD, yours comes from the front as it is FWD). A polyurethane replacement for my car is about $160 plus labor involved of swapping in the new mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of these mounts are to hold the pieces in place while allowing for some movement to dampen noise and vibration from transferring to the chassis. With it worn out, there is a space between there and when force is put through the drivetrain, the parts move, and you get your &quot;clank&quot; as it hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is right in it being &quot;optional&quot; but it may have side effects over the long term.  It is allowing movement where there shouldn't be. This could cause other moving parts connected to wear out sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on a previous vehicle I had a bad motor mount (serves same purpose, mounts the engine to the chassis but dampens the vibration) and the additional movement of the engine eventually caused damage, it wasn't overnight though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general it shouldn't hurt your performance to any noticeable degree. If this was a drag car and you were trying to get every fraction of a second cut off, then sure it could.  That moment where the force is causing the transmission/differential to shift and impact the chassis could have been spent going to the wheels. For daily driving purposes, it'd be negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T21:19:17.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1651" CreationDate="2011-08-10T09:27:58.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I'm going to asume the bodyshell is sound, as there is no point doing anything if it is rotten (and Volvos of that age can rot very badly) - You'd end up spending hundreds on getting it welded back together...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll give an idea of prices in Sterling, obviously costs vary depending on where you are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creaks and groans are often a symptom of tired suspension. New dampers from companies like Monroe can be obtained cheaply, and will make a lot of difference. Budget for a couple of hours a corner if you're changing them yourself, less if a mechanic does it. The last set I got were £10 a corner off ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushes will also be tired and worth changing. There are quite a few, and some will need a hydraulic press to change (which most decent garages should have). Polybushes from someone like Superflex are worth fitting if you intend to keep it a long time, and aren't usually much dearer than rubber ones. Budget around £5 per bush, plus fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you've been keeping these in good condition, if not then budget for new pads &amp;amp; shoes at least, as well as a fluid change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old Volvo redblock engines go on for ever, but make sure you keep up with all the routine maintenence, such as changing the timing belt, if it hasn't been done recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, change the gearbox and diff oil, both will be pretty manky if they're original, and you'll probably find both will run a bit quieter with fresh oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interior&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the seats and carpet out and give them a good proper clean - getting rid of 20 years of built up grime will make it feel like a much better place to be! Tidy up or replace any broken trim, and give the paintwork a bit of attention (e.g. T-cut)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is plenty more you could do, but I think sorting the suspension and tidying the appearance will make the biggest difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T09:27:58.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1651" CreationDate="2011-08-10T10:45:42.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have completed all the routine maintenance specified by your owners manual or a repair manual. Specifically Replacing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Distributor, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters  (Air, Fuel, Oil, Transmission Fluid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain and fill your Transmission Fluid and Coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your coolant has been drained, check and possibly replace your radiator hoses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test your shocks/struts (this might be some of the creaking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test your ball joins and grease the rest of the suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A nice cleaning and a wax can make a big difference on the exterior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T10:45:42.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1658" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:42:13.903" Score="4" ViewCount="15173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ten-year-old car that I don't use too often (it mostly sits in the garage). Last month, I took it for a ride and the engine overheated. I took it to the service station, and the guys there fixed the overheating problem -- the thermostat was stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I have this strange problem with it. If I start it in the morning -- no one has used it for about 12 hours -- the car starts perfectly, with a smooth key turn. However, if I drive it around 30 mins, stop the engine, and then try to start it again, it almost doesn't start at all. I have to push the accelerator pedal right after turning the key to get it started. Otherwise, it simply won't start. Any ideas what could cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="793" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T17:17:58.723" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:38:38.233" Title="Car starts fine after sitting for half a day but has trouble immediately after being driven" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1640" CreationDate="2011-08-10T19:02:44.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which Kwaka you have but I get my Triumph serviced by a Triumph dealer mainly because I know they have the engine diagnostics hardware. Since it has a primitive open-loop fuel injector it requires the diagnostic hardware to plug into the bike's computer to tune the injectors. Similarly, there is a socket for diagnostic hardware to plug into to get system status. It may well be that an independent guy has this hardware as well, but I'm guessing it is expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, my Triumph dealer is also the most convenient mechanic around me, so it's an easy call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used to have a Kwaka ZR750 (air-cooled, carbi driven UJM) I took it to an independent shop (since closed) because the tech was simple and the guys were great at customer service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T19:02:44.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1656" CreationDate="2011-08-10T20:28:11.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They definitely could have messed up the belt, especially if the markings had worn off and they didn't mark it well taking it off or counted teeth and got that wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having to take it off for the thermostat does sound correct though, even if they could have gotten to it physically without, they probably would have gotten coolant on the belt and that is supposed to be bad for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to see if you can get the factory spec on how many teeth there should be between each position and count to see if it is correct.  My engine had previously been off by two teeth on one cam gear and after fixing it my fuel mileage went up, engine accelerated smoother and had a smoother idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cold vs warm start, just a guess but whatever component is having an issue must be being affected by the raised temperature from the engine saturating it, making it not perform as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could be anything under the hood though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since adding throttle helps, perhaps something with air or fuel delivery.  Fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, air filter, mass airflow sensor, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T20:28:11.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1661" CreationDate="2011-08-11T02:08:54.563" Score="6" ViewCount="1971" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear view mirror came off today while in work. Probably due to age and scorching Texas heat. What do I need to do to glue it back on? and what kind of glue should I buy to do it with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="923" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T10:51:06.357" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T10:51:06.357" Title="Re-glue rear view mirror" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2011-08-11T03:41:42.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind at the auto store that says for mirrors.. lol Epoxy glue but I believe you will find one that even is clearly labeled for mirrors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="924" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T03:41:42.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1659" CreationDate="2011-08-11T04:06:13.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to Napa, Autozone, Pepboys or similar - they all stock the specific glue that you need to reattach the mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most jobs that involve sticking dissimilar materials together, cleanliness is the key - make sure that you get all the old glue off both the windshield (fairly easy) and the metal button (not that easy). Follow the instructions on the pack to the letter. I had to reglue the mirror on my wife's Cherokee a few months back, it's a really easy job, just take your time with the prep and give the glue enough time to harden before you put any load on the metal button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T04:06:13.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1471" CreationDate="2011-08-11T12:52:44.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up for future googlers, my air filter was in a fairly bad state.  This resulted in some power loss during normal operation but when I put additional load on the engine it really became noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the air filter has made a world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="844" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T12:52:44.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-08-11T13:17:44.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If properly installed, there's really nothing to be done.  As mentioned above, you can clean them to prevent the seals from being damaged by grit.  Most setups have covers over them anyways that keeps most of the dirt out.  Those covers tend to fall apart after a few years though.  Either way, I don't think I've ever seen a failure due to seal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered going with a different brand?  What are other people's results with that particular setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clunk/lateral motion was most likely the top plate.  Those, generally speaking, seem to be a weak point.  I've had to replace the top plates on the struts on my MR2 multiple times (damper unit itself is still functioning perfectly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T13:17:44.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1665" CreationDate="2011-08-11T19:03:43.453" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering what the general consensus out there for the amount of times the vehicle turns over during a compression test? I have heard anywhere from 5-8, and personally crank 7. What is the desired number of revolutions to ensure an accurate reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T20:50:52.943" Title="Strokes during compression test?" Tags="|engine|compression|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1664" CreationDate="2011-08-11T20:50:52.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do it until the gauge doesn't go up anymore. I am not aware of a specific number of times that it needs to be done. That usually takes 6 or 7 times, but I have never actually counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T20:50:52.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:28:52.937" Score="13" ViewCount="18207" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Chevrolet Prizm (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NUMMI&quot;&gt;NUMMI&lt;/a&gt;) is about to hit 125,00 miles.  I bought a little over 5 years ago, at which time it had ~79,000 miles on it.  I bought it from a used car dealer that seemed to have put at least some money and time into maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I've done typical basic maintenance on it -- changed oil ~3k miles, got tires rotated, had serpentine belt replaced, etc.  The car is still running okay, but is definitely beginning to show its age in terms of performance and general wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know cars don't last forever, but I'd like to get at least 2-3 more years out of my Prizm.  What maintenance items should I attend to in order to keep my high-mileage car running well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="926" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T16:40:29.707" Title="Most important preventive maintenance for high-mileage car?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:55:23.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're doing the biggest one already, the 3000 mile oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, step up frequency of inspection of steering/suspension components as balljoint, etc will start needing more attention.  Also, take the time to occasionally check the wheel liner areas and bottom of the car for rust.  If you catch it before it rusts all the way through you can treat it, paint it, and re-undercoat it.  Can gain you several more years of good use just for the cost of a little time and a few supplies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:55:23.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-12T19:42:48.623" Score="16" ViewCount="169243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost my fuel cap a couple months ago and haven't bothered finding a replacement.  I haven't noticed any issues with it, but I'm wondering whether it's causing any damage or reducing gas mileage or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="928" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T05:05:40.563" Title="How important is a fuel cap?" Tags="|fuel-tank|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-08-12T19:53:48.760" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might cause issues with the evaporative emissions controls as the tank is currently permanently vented to the atmosphere and that can trigger a check engine light. In general it shouldn't be affecting the fuel mileage, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other concern is that you'll probably end up clogging the various fuel filters sooner because the lack of fuel cap means all sorts of dust might enter the tank while you're driving. You'll also see more fuel evaporate over time, especially in hot climates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it also makes it a lot easier to stick a hose down the filler neck and siphon some fuel out for those who like to circumvent the legal process of purchasing motive fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T19:53:48.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-08-12T20:05:59.350" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to start an &quot;oil change war&quot; here :) re the change interval, but you should be fine with that. Good quality oil is more important than making sure the oil is changed every 2999 miles, as is a good quality oil filter. The best oil in the world isn't going to do much good if the oil filter doesn't do its job of removing particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also make sure I do the following on a regular basis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune ups with new fuel + air filters, distributor caps and rotors if the car is so equipped and also new spark plugs. Don't spring for fancy spark plugs, just use the ones recommended by the manufacturer, check that the gaps are in spec and change them at the recommended intervals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to change the other fluids, too - brake fluid, coolant and transmission fluid (especially in an autobox) age. Brake fluid is also hygroscopic and should be changed every couple of years because (a) water in the brake fluid lowers its boiling point and (b) water in the fluid can cause corrosion in the braking system. Both can lead to unwelcome surprises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep an eye and ear out for parts starting to go bad - changing a wheel bearing when it starts to make a noise is much cheaper compared to having to replace it once it lost half its rollers and has started welding itself to the hub...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I think you might be overthinking this a little - 125k miles isn't that much for a modern car that's being looked after. You're doing less than 10k/year so if you keep up the maintenance it should last you much longer than another 20-30k unless the body dissolves first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:05:59.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1230" CreationDate="2011-08-12T20:10:55.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you want part of the car (or the whole car) repainted and thus need the RAL equivalent code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not be a RAL colour, but a paint supplier that's been around for a while might still have the mixing instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you're looking at getting a partial repaint, the colour code isn't going to help you much - paint fades over the years and you're not going to get a match. The best case for this scenario would be to take the car or a part thereof to a paint shop or paint supplier than can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dupontrefinish.eu/portal/en?page=GU-1.3.1_Current_Press_Release&amp;amp;category=PressReleaseCategoryOne&amp;amp;catid=94&amp;amp;catid2=5752&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spectrophotometer&lt;/a&gt; to analyse the paint and mix accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:10:55.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2801" CreationDate="2011-08-13T00:52:24.647" Score="5" ViewCount="11228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new 2011 Mazda3. Everything about it has been great so far, except one glaring detail. When my 87 pound girlfriend rides in the passenger seat, the &quot;pass airbag off&quot; light comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I complained to the dealer and asked them to adjust the seat sensors. They called Mazda, and were told the sensors couldn't be changed.  Officially, the airbag should activate for anything heavier than 66 pounds, but apparently there are multiple sensors and the weight is not being distributed to all of them by my gf's skinny butt. The dealer then suggested she ride in the back, or sit on a heavy plate or something, which was insulting. They passed the buck and told me to call Mazda myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I wade into that bureaucracy, I want to do more research. I did find a similar complaint here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsummary.cfm?odi_id=10402674&amp;amp;prod_id=1035768&amp;amp;cmpt_id=257&amp;amp;type=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsummary.cfm?odi_id=10402674&amp;amp;prod_id=1035768&amp;amp;cmpt_id=257&amp;amp;type=1&lt;/a&gt; But it seems like there was no resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I right to be angry about this and demand action from Mazda? After all, my girlfriend is a 23 year-old adult. She's definitely petite but not the only woman of this weight in the world.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then again, is an airbag really necessary for someone of her weight? It seems to me someone of lower weight has less momentum in a crash and therefore might not need an airbag, assuming their seatbelt was on. I don't know enough about the science behind this though. (She's 5'-2&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming I do want the airbag to be active for her, and that Mazda doesn't help me out, is there any way I could modify the seat/sensor myself to make it stay on for her?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; So it's a definite no on modifying anything. I'll call Mazda on Monday and see if I can get anywhere, and also contact the salesman who sold me the car, to see if he can help push anything forward. I'll update this question with whatever happens. Thanks for the help so far!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I called customer relations today and explained the issue. All the woman did was to create a case and then recommend I get it serviced &quot;to check for defects&quot;. I asked her what I should do if it turned out to be a defect with the design, and she said nothing could be done. She did admit there had been a number of similar complaints throughout the past year, so it sounds like a moderately widespread issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will go ahead a schedule a service appointment to have the seat looked at, even though I already know it's a design flaw - that way they can't stall with that option.  After that, I'm not really sure where to head with this. It seems incorrectable, but then my options are only:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put my GF in danger by continuing to drive around with a deactivated airbag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give up this car, everything about which I've been loving except this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both options seem outrageous to me, so I want to keep pushing this - but I don't know how exactly.  Is Mazda legally bound to anything here?  The dealer told me the airbag is supposed to be on for anyone above 66 pounds. Is this law, or just specification? How hard would it be to force a recall? (I'm guessing hard, but not impossible)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T13:35:17.163" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T13:35:17.163" Title="2011 Mazda3 airbag disabled for light passenger" Tags="|mazda|supplemental-restraint-system|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1675" CreationDate="2011-08-13T14:32:25.513" Score="5" ViewCount="71916" Body="&lt;p&gt;This only happens when shifting into 3rd gear (on a 7 gear Audi TT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I shift when the RPMs are high (say over 2k) then there will be a horrible grinding noise.  Instead I have to apply the clutch, wait until the RPMs come down and then shift.  This problem has gotten increasingly worse over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:23:41.693" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:25:12.287" Title="Why does my 3rd gear grind on shifting when RPMs are high on 2002 Audi TT?" Tags="|audi|manual-transmission|tt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1674" CreationDate="2011-08-13T16:09:33.397" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean that the revs are over 2k, if they were over 20k I think you'd get a different sort of noise from the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description it sounds like you'd got a damaged syncro, especially if this happens when you're shifting down into 3rd. Up shouldn't make quite that bad a noise but if the syncro is really on the way out (which your description suggests it is, given that it's been getting worse over time) you'll get the noise on upshifts, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much the only way to fix it is to pull the gearbox and either replace it with an overhauled one or strip it and replace the syncros. You can also hope that you haven't damaged/worn any gears themselves, that'll make the repair even more expensive. As you can probably guess already, that's not going to be a cheap repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime I would suggest that you double declutch and rev match on downshifts (ie clutch -&gt; box into neutral -&gt; blip throttle -&gt; clutch and move into lower gear) and use slower upshifts to extend the life of the gearbox until you can get it fixed. There's no point in trying to change gears as fast as possible (even on a race track, the gain is minimal) but it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard on the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T16:09:33.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1673" CreationDate="2011-08-13T18:02:18.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Her weight doesn't really have much to do with the necessity of an airbag- I'd say it'll still be a massive improvement in the safety for the passenger if it goes off for a light passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also strongly recommend against trying to modify the airbag sensors yourself, as you might cause a lot more problems that you'd solve that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which IMHO leaves complaining to the dealer, the regional Mazda offices and Mazda themselves as probably the most viable option. Plus, if the 'airbag must be active for passengers over 66 pounds is actually a law and not just a recommendation, I'd use that as additional leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T18:02:18.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-13T20:38:05.197" Score="4" ViewCount="6831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the following cars, but the questions apply equally well to any car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Audi TT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lexus IS 200 (SE or not?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding it difficult to determine the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I figure out how much fuel a particular car can hold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I figure out how much a fuel tank will cost (in the UK)?  A website of some sort?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So from the above I can sort of figure out how much a fulltank will last me in terms of miles.  So if I know much fuel the tank can hold, and I know the cost of the fuel tank, and I know how mpg the car does I can work out what the cost of fuel would cost me.  Am I missing something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mention &lt;code&gt;figure&lt;/code&gt; because I'd like to see the steps taken to arrive at the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you and I appreciate all the help or insight you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="930" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:32:46.813" Title="Determining how many miles can be covered on full tank" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-08-15T16:32:13.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2011-08-13T21:16:44.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edmunds.com has the specifications for most vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't give a year so I'll do the current 2012 Audi TT Coupe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.edmunds.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the search box type &quot;2012 Audi TT&quot; and hit enter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the coupe model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under available models choose &quot;View All Features &amp;amp; Specs&quot; under the desired model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the Fuel section&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They list fuel type, grade required, fuel tank capacity, MPG and mile range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 2012 Audi TT Coupe 2.0T AWD&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Fuel type: gas&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Fuel type: premium unleaded (required)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Fuel tank capacity: 15.9 gal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    Range in miles (cty/hwy): 365.7/492.9 mi.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    EPA mileage est. (cty/hwy): 23/31 mpg  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fuel prices, in USA and Canada there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gasbuddy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gasbuddy.com&lt;/a&gt;, for the UK there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.petrolprices.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.petrolprices.com&lt;/a&gt;  Many others can be found by searching online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For how to calculate the range yourself, you are right in that you need to know the fuel consumption rate and the size of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Audi TT above having a 15.9 gallon tank and EPA 31 mpg highway you'd do:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;15.9 gallons * 31 MPG = 492.9 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T21:16:44.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2011-08-13T21:18:14.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of the tank is usually in the manual, and determining how many miles you can get is trivial. This number will vary in what you are hauling, how you are driving, what speed you are traveling, etc. My Camry can vary from ~24-36 MPG, depending on how I'm driving. Averaging from 350-550 miles to the tank, and the highest usually comes with cruise control on an empty highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T21:18:14.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-08-13T21:33:58.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One not mentioned yet, lubrication!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 125,000 the grease/lube applied to various joints and bearings is probably not doing much good anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A service manual for your vehicle should cover the details, there may be points on your vehicle where grease is injected into parts through fittings, other places will be sprayed or may need to be opened and re-lubed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car isn't going to fall to pieces without this being done, but you will start getting more noises and some items like bearings could wear out sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also replacement of rubber bushings can help firm various components back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T21:33:58.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-08-13T23:01:13.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all honesty the manufacturers recommended maintenance is key. They tell when, and what to do. If you bought the car used, look at the mileage applicable and do all the maintenance you think was not done. The next time, you should be where they want you to be, and continue. Oil changes at 3000 miles is a money making myth. BMW uses synthetic and has their cars tell the owner to come in every 15,000 miles, so be mindful of the oil you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T23:10:05.267" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T23:10:05.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1673" CreationDate="2011-08-14T00:25:51.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should never mess with the safety systems, ever. How tall is your GF? If she's short enough (I believe under 5') the air bag could be dangerous, given that it will hit her at an unsafe position. Given that, it may be better that the airbag is in fact off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supposing she's of average height, you've only got two real next steps. Push the dealer harder, talk to their regional manager, etc. OR go straight to Mazda corporate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect much from any of them though given the fact that a) it would require re-engineering the senors or overriding them in some fashion and b) admitting a potentially expensive mistake throughout the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="932" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T00:25:51.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1674" CreationDate="2011-08-14T05:35:24.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second Timo's assessment: it's likely that the synchromesh gear (AKA synchro) is worn badly enough that it's not able to do it's standard rev matching for you.  Instead, as he suggests, you have to come a lot closer to matching the engine revs to the wheel revs, using your right foot with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's possible that you have a problem that is solvable with a different gear oil.  I recently switched to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/52/is-redline-lightweight-shockproof-appropriate-for-an-aging-2004-subaru-impreza-ma&quot;&gt;Redline's Lightweight Shockproof&lt;/a&gt; and I am very satisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a bad synchro, there's a good chance that a gear oil change would have enough metal in it to confirm the problem.  By the way, the metal will likely be non-magnetic: the synchros are usually made of softer brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T05:35:24.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1685" CreationDate="2011-08-14T11:27:11.187" Score="5" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a speedboat that is powered by a 5 liter V8 Mercruiser with 200bhp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday when trying it out for the 1st time this season, 2 things happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - the boat was always trying to turn left and the steering wheel was offering a lot of resistance because of that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - after an afternoon out, when reaching the Marina the part highlighted in the picture below started smoking a bit and making a grinding noise, like metal on metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mf5a5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what that part is? It's got an OIL cap on top, but not sure if it's the oil tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure if the 2 issues are related. It is an old boat, but the engine has just been fixed a couple of months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:28:03.790" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:28:03.790" Title="Which engine part is this?" Tags="|engine|part-identification|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1684" CreationDate="2011-08-14T20:34:26.093" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks to me like a power steering pump and reservoir. Given your account of what happened, I don't think it'd be too far off to say that the pump is toast. At the very least, it ran severely low on fluid. That would definitely cause the stiff steering and grinding noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're in the market for a new power steering pump now, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T20:34:26.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-14T21:04:29.130" Score="3" ViewCount="9189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used 2005 Mazda Tribute. The only problem I have with the car is that the cruise control doesn't work....and I have no clue how/where to start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cruise light on the dashboard doesn't come on when I turn the cruise system on. I don't think it's just a bulb, because the cruise system doesn't work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it could be the switch itself....but how would I go about testing that?&#xA;Is there a fuse specific to CC? I don't have any other dashboard lights out or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help in pointing me in the right direction!&#xA;Matthew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="934" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T14:27:42.133" Title="How do you troubleshoot cruise control? (Mazda Tribute 2005)" Tags="|troubleshooting|mazda|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2011-08-15T02:12:32.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be anywhere between the button, and the module. The first step should be to read the codes, and ensure nothing is calling for a fault. The next step, if no codes are found, is to check the switch. The reality is that troubleshooting this at home can be difficult without the proper equipment. This list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/mazda/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mazda OBD-II Trouble Codes&lt;/a&gt; does not show any cruise control ones, so you might have to get a Mazda code reader (or one equipped to read Mazda codes) to accomplish this job. Make sure to check all things are tight as far as you can tell, but otherwise I recommend starting with the codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T02:12:32.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2011-08-15T08:46:37.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parkers.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.parkers.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; gives both fuel tank capacity and manufacturer's quoted mpg for all modern UK-spec cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to reviews, then the &quot;facts and Figures&quot; page for the model in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel prices, as ManiacZS says, can be found from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.petrolprices.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.petrolprices.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;an IS200SE 4-door saloon has a fuel capacity of 70L and a quoted 29mpg, so at current 136.9ppl* you should expect a tank to cost you £95.83 (70 * 136.9 / 100) and last you 447 miles (70L / 4.54 litres in an imperial gallon * 29mpg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Which for the Americans on here, is roughly $8.44 per US Gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="858" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T14:32:46.813" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:32:46.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-08-15T11:12:43.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, most petrol (gas) stations sell temporary fuel caps in the appropriate colour, for very little money. They are universal fitting and usually made of plastic, so just press into the hole making a snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1669/how-important-is-a-fuel-cap/1670#1670&quot;&gt;Tomo&lt;/a&gt; suggests though, I would say that it also depends on the vehicle and the fuel that you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big problem for motorcyclists is spilled diesel from vans and lorries. On many lorries there is very little height between the high fill level of the tank and the filler cap, so if the cap is not refitted correctly, diesel can slosh out of the tank and onto the road, causing a major hazard for other vehicles, especially two-wheelers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol leaks do not pose the same issue for other road users, but even so, if the filler cap has a short 'neck', then you could lose more fuel from it sloshing out than from evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't discount the threat of fuel theft. With many vehicles, it is the filler cap itself which locks the petrol tank, so going without a cap could make it trivial for people to siphon off your fuel. If the missing cap is hidden behind a flap the threat is less, but even so if someone is intent on stealing fuel, they will just flip open the flaps that aren't locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T11:12:43.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-08-15T12:48:55.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very on most cars and extremely on some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extremely&lt;/strong&gt;: on my car (2004 Subaru WRX), a loose filler cap will trigger a check engine light and the limp home mode.  The engine computer will drop into a mode where it won't allow revs above a low limit and disallows all boost.  Suddenly, you're in a 8:1 compression ratio car and aren't able to get out of your own way on the highway.  This isn't a gradual switch, either.  All of a sudden, you feel like you're going backwards through rush hour traffic....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very&lt;/strong&gt;: the fundamental purpose of the modern fuel cap isn't to keep gas from sloshing out or to keep sudden rainstorms from getting in.  It's to keep the evaporating fuel from wafting out of the tank, wasting your money and leaving a trail of raw pollution in a cloud behind you.  Remember, you're driving a car that gets progressively hotter the farther you go and gasoline is happy to completely evaporate as its temperature increases.  Modern caps click on because they're trying to make a gas-tight seal against some non-trivial vapor pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a new cap.  They're cheap and, if you're concerned about siphoners, you can get one with the little luggage key lock.  It won't stop a determined fuel thief but it will persuade a random punk to move onto the next car, who happens to be driving around with an old rag stuck down the filler neck as a temporary cap....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T12:48:55.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1673" CreationDate="2011-08-15T13:27:50.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I'd complain to Mazda anyway, simply because of the dealer's attitude - Insulting your customers is a very easy way to lose business, and it looks bad for Mazda to have their franchisees behaving like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T13:27:50.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-15T15:30:07.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Venture that needs a battery replacement. Will disconnecting the battery activate the Theftlock system in my stereo? My impression is that the VIN is stored in flash memory, so a constant power source is not needed. But I'd rather not have to find out the hard way that I was wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If power indeed needs to be maintained, what is the easiest way to do this? I have a portable booster, and was thinking to hook it up to the power before removing the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="936" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T19:06:12.130" Title="Battery replacement on 2001 Chevy Venture" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1692" CreationDate="2011-08-15T18:48:34.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it will, if that feature has been activated on your radio. Check you owners manual as the code is sometimes put in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the booster as you mentioned. I would recommend plugging it into the cigarette lighter, they make an adapter like the one show below to do the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QGXlw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not for your situation but for the benefit of others, do not use this method if you are working on the airbags, or the high voltage systems on hybrid-electric cars, even the 9-volt battery has enough power to keep the airbags and or high voltage system enabled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T18:48:34.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1697" CreationDate="2011-08-16T00:07:41.617" Score="16" ViewCount="12925" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the days of taking drivers ed (many years back). I was told that when you encounter a steep or extended downgrade, to conserve your brakes and help increase braking performance it's a good idea to shift from Drive to 2nd (at least on automatic transmissions which is all I've driven).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, while the advice seemes valid and for the most part it's helped greatly every so often in winter on hilly areas, on a recent trip through upstate New York, I encountered numerous rural hills so steep and long that when I downshifted, I was hitting 3-3.5k RPM peaking at 4k even as I was doing 40mph and breaking heavily (but steadily) to keep the RPMs in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway my main question is that when you see those hills with the signs indicating trucks must downshift, is it also a good idea for people driving sedans and other non-commercial vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I ask is because I've heard downshifting saves brake pads but can damage the transmision, so the rationale is to avoid downshifting when possible. I've done this for much of my average driving however I definately would love to get a more solid opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T00:22:53.120" Title="Is downshifting on hills harmful for non-trucks?" Tags="|brakes|transmission|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-06-08T17:59:46.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-16T01:40:40.863" Score="2" ViewCount="8442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ball joint and a tie rod end that both have bad boots. The ball joint boot is ripped at the center around the entire circumference. The tie rod end's boot isn't ripped, but it has come up from it's bottom seat and I see a bit of grime has gotten in. There is no play at all in the suspension. There is no pull while driving. There is no irregular wear on the tires. This is a 2006 crv 2wd AT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, I believe the standard procedure after replacement is to do an alignment. Yet, I am questioning why that is absolutely necessary. What usually happens is people normally take their stuff in for alignment when they notice a problem (due to worn ball joints/tie rod ends etc) and alignment happens after they get repairs. But in my case, I have no wear, just visibly damaged boots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ball joint, I just don't see why an alignment is necessary. What is the difference old to new that would set the alignment off? Has anyone had similar circumstances where the problem was only at the boot-tear stage where no alignment post repair caused some sort of issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the tie rod end, I suppose I could see an issue if the new tie rod end wasn't threaded onto the rod at the same location as the old. Yet, I would think that if you used a caliper to precisely measure the locations, one could do the r &amp;amp; r without the need for an alignment. Has anyone done these with no post repair alignment successfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T23:18:42.700" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T16:14:00.913" Title="post suspension work alignment, is it absolutely necessary?" Tags="|suspension|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1695" CreationDate="2011-08-16T01:45:46.130" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl,dr&lt;/strong&gt;: The short answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, with caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer starts with &quot;well, you can kill your car with anything if you try hard enough.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use specific examples of when you should use your transmission for engine braking: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waimea_Canyon_State_Park&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Waimea Canyon&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Washington_Auto_Road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mount Washington&lt;/a&gt;.  In either case, you are descending thousands of vertical feet at significant grades.  If you were to ride your brakes the entire way down, it's highly likely that the brakes would overheat and become less and less effective until they were essentially useless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be followed by a loud crashing sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, at the Mount Washington Auto Road, they will not let you proceed up or down the hill unless you are in &quot;2&quot; on an automatic transmission vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt;: when you intentionally put your car in a lower gear and drive down a steep grade, you are giving gravity control of your engine revs.  As I say, it is sometimes important to use engine braking (we've discussed the benefits to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/678/least-wear-and-tear-most-fuel-efficient-method-of-coasting-in-a-manual-transmiss&quot;&gt;fuel economy&lt;/a&gt; before).  However, &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are the driver of the vehicle so &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; have to make the call about how much is too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple rule of thumb: the redline is still the redline.  If your engine braking is pushing the limits of the rated engine speed, it's time to use the brake pedal and slow down significantly and, possibly, drop down another gear.  Otherwise, you're going to break your engine in an effort to save your brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T13:26:13.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2011-08-16T07:45:36.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you are doing is changing the boots (and not removing the tie rod ends), then no, it probably isn't essential to have the alignment done. However, alignment changes over time as various things wear and get damaged by the roads, potholes etc, so I'd get it done anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth making sure that the grit hasn't worked its way into the balljoint before you fit the new boot, and clean it out properly, otherwise it will destroy the joint in no time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T07:45:36.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2011-08-16T14:13:59.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Returned from dealer - this was their report:&#xA;&quot;clicking&quot; noise from the R/R of the vehicle when slowing down. The technician road tested the vehicle and verified the concern. Found the rear brake shoes grabbing the drum causing minor grooves in the drum, also the technician found some grease on the backing plate. Cleaned off the grease and cleaned the brake shoes. Resurfaced the rear drums. Road tested - ok now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically after 7,000 miles, they resurfaced. I drove back with no clicking, so you may need to do the same. Hope this fixes my problem as well as yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="939" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T14:13:59.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1111" CreationDate="2011-08-16T14:44:35.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I didn't have to tools to read codes and diagnose the problem, I took it to a shop.  Apparently the problem was a combination of a bad rotor button and spark plug wires - again.  I'm not sure whats causing my parts to last no longer than they are, but since my immediate problem is solved, I'm marking this the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If past experience is any indication, I'll probably have to revisit this again next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T14:44:35.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1702" CreationDate="2011-08-16T18:13:30.427" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a strange problem but the left turn signal on my '98 Saturn SW2 is acting a bit funny. When braking the blinker will either simply not work or work very slowly. When not braking it will usually work like usual but other times it will blink at 2x speed. I cant figure out what could be causing this problem only with my left blinker. Where would the division be in the electrical system that can allow for this strange isolation of behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T04:38:27.750" Title="Left blinker quirky when braking" Tags="|electrical|saturn|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1701" CreationDate="2011-08-16T18:54:42.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check the ground strap/contact to ground from the blinker to the chassis first. Chances are there's a problem with it an it &quot;grounds&quot; via another bulb when you also apply the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter, check the resistance from the ground on the bulb holder against the chassis first, then check blinker ground against both contacts for the brake light. Chances are that one of them will show a high resistance when it shouldn't and one to the brake light will show low resistance only with the brake applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T18:54:42.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1695" CreationDate="2011-08-16T20:36:52.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some long 1 in 10 grades in Scotland where the advice for &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; drivers is to choose a low gear to avoid brake fade, as @BobCross points out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are slight differences between automatic and manual transmission cars, though - as you do get more control of revs with a manual, so make sure if driving an automatic that you change into 2 before the slope commences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:36:52.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1701" CreationDate="2011-08-17T04:38:27.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem with your charging system, such as an alternator that's not providing enough juice, can cause this. Your turn signal relays are sensitive to voltage fluctuations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T04:38:27.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-17T13:08:38.807" Score="1" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Central locking of my VW Lupo 1.0 model 1998 is not working from the driving side but from the passenger side central locking working fine. Any idea?&#xA;Most recently the power window from the driving side is also stop working.&#xA;I have no idea how to fix it, any guide with some picture will be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="943" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T17:16:04.753" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T17:16:04.753" Title="VW Lupo 1.0 door lock and window" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1705" CreationDate="2011-08-17T15:57:55.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the speaker in that door working correctly? You may well find the flexible wiring connecting the door to the car is damaged or rubbing, causing some of the wires inside it to break or short. I'm not familiar with the Lupo, but some cars of that age have that as a removable section which can be unscrewed and replaced, others it is a more difficult job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular check at the ends of the wire where it passes through the metal into the door or car body, as they often use a rubber grommet which can fall out and allow the wires to rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, this shows the wiring in a modern BMW door:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/63OXa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW Door Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(photo pinched from a Google search)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T15:57:55.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1712" CreationDate="2011-08-17T16:01:59.523" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing a replacement &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Window-Lift-Motor-Cardone_18040073-P_1326_R%7CGRP60022_1332626071____&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;window lift motor&lt;/a&gt;, do I have to worry about the motor being in a specific position (as far as rotation is concerned)?  Or does the motor stop at the top (closed position), and bottom (open position) based on resistance or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I will have to pay attention to where the motor engages the gear, but does the motor have set stop points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to put the new motor in and have it smash the window as it tries to close it beyond the close position, or not close/open the window all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T14:40:03.820" Title="Does a window lift motor have to be in a specific position when installing it?" Tags="|replace|power-windows|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2011-08-17T19:30:28.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out part 8 is not designed to be easily removed from the handle assembly.  I ended up removing the exterior handle assembly from the door, and unscrewing part 8 from the lift arm of the lock assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T19:30:28.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2011-08-17T20:09:27.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the tie rod end, I suppose I could see an issue if the new tie rod end wasn't threaded onto the rod at the same location as the old one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just threading the tie-rod the same number of turns as the old one will not always mean you have the same alignment as when you started.  For most cars, there are many different tie-rod manufactures that make a part that will fit, but there is no tight control between manufactures as to the dimensions from the end where the tie-rod screws on to the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I change tie-rods, I usually place a mark on the steering rod and measure to a point that must have the same distance in order to not effect the toe-in.  Usually this means the center of the ball on the tie-rod.  I then screw the new tie-rod in until that measurement is reached.  Doing so should mean that I have the same alignment as I did before I started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, I still follow-up with a proper alignment.  It's not that I don't trust my work, but more that I know an alignment may change.  As other posters mentioned, your alignment may change over time due to everything from aging bushings to hitting something big enough to bend or re-adjust something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastEditorUserId="906" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T14:06:54.260" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T14:06:54.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-17T21:48:25.850" Score="6" ViewCount="19828" Body="&lt;p&gt;My terminology is a bit lacking so please bear with me.  The doors on my 2004 Toyota RAV4 are very loose and will only stay open if I'm parked on a flat or declined surface.  If I remember correctly they used to have a &quot;notch&quot; where they would stay about half-way open and all of the way open.  That notch feels like it's gone and the doors are completely at the mercy of wind and gravity.  Is there something I can adjust to tighten them back up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T12:48:26.013" Title="Doors won't stay open" Tags="|toyota|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:39:37.650" Score="1" ViewCount="19879" Body="&lt;p&gt;My neighbor has a 2004 F150 with the key-less entry system.  He purchased it at an auction (it was a repossession), and didn't get the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of taking it to the dealer (they want to charge 1 hr labor to reset it) is there a way to reprogram the code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T20:41:14.063" Title="Can I reprogram the key-less entry code on a Ford F150 without the original code?" Tags="|ford|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2011-08-17T23:30:03.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever try rolling a power window up when it is already up? It tries, but it doesn't go anywhere--and nothing breaks. The answer is no; it does not matter where the output shaft/gear of the motor meshes with the driven gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T23:30:03.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2011-08-18T08:18:01.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two different ways of doing that, so it depends which Toyota have used - Either there is a notch on the hinge itself, or it is part of the check strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is probably easier to check - between the hinges there should be a bar that is hinged at one end and slides at the other. It's main purpose is to sopt the door opening more than it should, but they can also be used to hold the door - look at it and see if there is any notch or lump halfway along. If there is, it's likely that the fixed part is worn if it doesn't stay in either position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is part of the hinges, it'll be cast into the hinge itself. You mention that the door is loose - is that in all directions? i.e. if you open the door and grip it firmly, can you move it up and down. If so, the hinges themselves are worn and will probably need replacing (very few are adjustable). This is often more common on driver's doors as they are used more than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T08:18:01.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-18T16:10:49.030" Score="3" ViewCount="5797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt and since I bought the thing, the front suspension makes this horrible clunking noise every time I go over a bump. I don't know how to describe the noise other than it only happens when I drive over a bump (such as a speed bump) and it sounds like the whole front of the car is about to bust apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've analyzed it and it appears to only happen when the strut engage at all (going over a speed bump, driving off a curb, etc). The sound is coming from someone near the top of the suspension so, it's unlikely it is a roll bar or something of that nature. I have a feeling that perhaps the strut mount have failed and that is what's making all of the noise. It doesn't affect how the car drives at all, it just sounds horrific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="948" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:22:23.897" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:22:23.897" Title="2006 Chevy Cobalt front end (strut mount?) noise" Tags="|engine|maintenance|suspension|noise|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2011-08-18T16:14:00.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that, as a general rule, if you touch any of the major suspension parts (Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends, CV Boot or shaft) you should probably get the car re aligned. Worse case scenario, you can put it all back together, drive on it for a week and re check your tire wear. If your alignment is out of whack, you will know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="948" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T16:14:00.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1711" CreationDate="2011-08-18T19:28:03.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford has the code in a few different places depending on year and model, but I think for a 2004 F150, it is on the back wall behind the drivers seat. They also sometimes write it out on the lock module itself. Hope that helps a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T19:28:03.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1722" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:10:51.013" Score="3" ViewCount="8931" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2003 Kia Sedona minivan, the air conditioning recently stopped working.  This occurred somewhat gradually over the course of a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed today that if I turn the air conditioning on, I can hear a hissing sound which seems to come from the center of the console, or near the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No noise occurs with just the blowers, and noise is consistent no matter what blower speed.  After turning off the air conditioner, the hiss doesn't stop immediately, but takes a few seconds before going away, even after I hear the compressor disengage.  The recirculating selector has no effect on the hissing sound at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I simply need to get the refrigerant recharged, or are there other things I should be looking at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="230" LastEditorUserId="230" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T19:23:28.977" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T08:19:54.753" Title="Air conditioning gradually stopped working, hissing noise" Tags="|ac|noise|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-19T16:26:17.983" Score="14" ViewCount="120905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time my 2001 Honda Civic sounds like this... &lt;code&gt;Vrooooooom&lt;/code&gt;.  But some times when I start driving it sounds like this... &lt;code&gt;Vrooom putt pa putt pa putt pa vrooooom&lt;/code&gt;. When it's in the &quot;putt pa putt&quot; mode, pressing the gas makes no difference. The amount of time it spends in &quot;putt pa putt&quot; mode varies, sometimes its a couple seconds, other times its as long as 5-10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This always happens within the first 100 yards after starting the car, and it runs fine after that.  It is not throwing any error codes, so if it's misfiring it's not reporting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the likely cause of this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only seems to happen after a cold start (car has been sitting for &gt; 4 hours). The outside temperature does not seem to be a factor, it has happened in winter (0F-20F) and summer (70F-90F).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs were changed about 3-4 years ago, but I will be changing them today.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter might be original, or at least has not been changed in the 6 years I've owned the car. I am thinking of changing this too, but it is a pain in the ass to get to since it's in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced spark plugs. The car seems to be running better, and have not yet experienced the reported issue (though it was very random, so it may be to early to call it fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs did not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is also idling very low (200-300 RPM) once it's warmed up, and occasionally stalls while idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just had the car to the dealer for a software update, turns out there was a service bulletin that mentioned this type of issue.  The car seems to be running better, idling normally, and less hesitation when accelerating from idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got a new error code that might help find the cause of this problem, P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. After reading the comment on the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1851/stuttering-accord-at-stop-lights&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I'm starting to suspect the catalytic converter.  I did notice a leak near the manifold, so I'm not sure if that would cause the code or if the catalytic converter is really on its way out. Unfortunately the manifold and catalytic converter are a single unit, so I'll have to spend the ~$500 to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crushing the car and purchasing a new one, seems to have fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/evtzF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T17:10:42.330" Title="What would be the most likely cause of engine sputter?" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|performance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1721" CreationDate="2011-08-19T17:43:41.513" Score="2" ViewCount="9151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ford Focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever the car is idling the heat gauge goes up at an alarming rate and goes the farthest into the red that it can if left alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if I rev the engine a little the temperature goes down (no matter the gear), I took it to a couple of mechanics and they couldn't figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this, and how would I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Tester101's comment I went to my car and checked some things out, here's what I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let the car sit in park for a couple of minutes, so for around 10 minutes the needle stopped at the midway point, after 10 minutes it started going up and the fan didn't turn on. When the needle was at the highest it can go and I was about to shut the car off I heard the fan go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it go for 5 more minutes but the needle still didn't go back down from the highest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I turned off the car for 2 minutes and when I turned it back on, the needle was just starting to go into the red however the fan was on. Even though the fan was on it still kept getting hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="294" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T19:26:40.973" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T10:24:52.340" Title="Car overheating problem" Tags="|engine|ford|maintenance|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2011-08-19T21:33:32.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually coolant temperature problems as you described (without leaks) are caused by any of the following or a combination thereof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially blocked or missing ducting to the radiator so either not enough air reaches the radiator or it goes past the radiator instead of through it. This should be relatively easy to eyeball.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat not opening fully (or stuck open, so the motor runs cold). The result would be an engine that does run OK for a while but would get (too) hot when the car is either at standstill or under more load than usual. Unfortunately the only way to really figure out if it's the thermostat is putting a new one - I tend to like OEM ones, and I'd go for the OEM opening temperature as well. Don't bother with a thermostat that opens earlier as this might mask the 'real' fault.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially blocked radiator. This usually manifests itself under heavier loads (think long uphill stretches with the aircon at full blast). Easiest way to find out is if you 'hover' the palm of your hand over the cooling fins with the engine off and see if you notice areas of the radiator being cooler than others. Don't touch the radiator and don't be tempted to do it with the engine running in case the fans spin up. Better way to do is to use a remote infrared thermometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues with the waterpump not flowing enough coolant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the fans not operating correctly. A lot of cars with a/c have two fans, one is often supposed to run when the a/c is on, the other one cycles off and on based on coolant temperature. If the a/c fan doesn't work you're losing a lot of cooling capacity as the a/c evaporator blocks part of the radiator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd check the ducting, and the fan(s) first, then consider replacing the thermostat. Thermostats don't last forever and if there are deposits in the cooling system, this can shorten their life considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T22:02:10.263" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T22:02:10.263" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1717" CreationDate="2011-08-20T08:19:54.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me that a leak in the refrigerant lines is a likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gradually getting worse would be the gradual loss of the refrigerant as it leaked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hiss you are hearing now I would suspect is pressure created by the compressor being engaged and coming out of the point of the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just get it refilled, you will probably end up back in the same state, the leak needs to be found and fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some A/C leak sealer products out there, I have no experience of how well they work and even then, every leak is different.  Since yours leaked out slowly, I'd say one of those products might have a chance of sealing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T08:19:54.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1725" CreationDate="2011-08-20T13:53:31.153" Score="16" ViewCount="10783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a '99 Pegaso 650 which hasn't been running for about 7 years. It's was in a quite a deteriorated state when I got it, i.e. seized carbs, tank full of water, sump full of an ugly fuel/oil mix, I seriously I drained about 5 liters from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fixed the biggies and finally got it started today, however it's running really rough (no surprises there) but what worries me is the way the headers are glowing. I've been riding for a long time and owned more than a couple of bikes, but I've never seen headers glow like this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search of the internet shows number of threads similar to this, the responses vary from 'this is normal noob' to 'tweak the pilot jet to make it run richer'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your opinion, the bike is a 650cc single bore, it runs very rough for about 3 minutes, the temperature gauge shows about 80 C, but exhausts start to glow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T16:59:04.060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:10:21.207" Title="Should motorcyle exhaust headers ever glow red hot" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2011-08-20T17:46:34.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the first thing that you should do is re-read your manual. If the manual specifically says to use the lowest grade use that, the maker knows best. However if it says that the cars were made for 87 or higher your car may be able to take advantage of the higher octane, such is the case with many subarus. However the only way that you will truely be able to tell if it will increase your mileage is to test it. Instead of filling up an entire tank with high octane, i would suggest making a trip to your local Dollar store. In most dollar stores they have a bottle of octane booster, this, obviously, is not going to be anything like a premium blend of fuel, however it may increase your gas mileage as it did for mine. If it does so, though it may be a small amount, you may want to consider trying a premium or super blend of fuel. worst thing that will happen is that it doesnt work, but it could be worth a try if your car is able to use it and increase you mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="952" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T17:46:34.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1723" CreationDate="2011-08-20T18:21:12.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, no, it's not normal under 99% of circumstances and the remaining 1% most likely won't apply (no turbo to get heat soak from, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clue is probably in it running rough - did you clean/overhaul the carb(s)? If not, chances are that the mixture is way too lean because some passages in the carb are blocked. I'd try to open up the carb, check for deposit and clean it out with a good carb cleaner. If that improves matters but it's not quite there yet, I'd get the carb ultrasonically cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other potential issue that might contribute to the exhaust getting this hot is that the timing is off - check that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T18:21:12.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2011-08-20T21:11:50.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I actually was discussing this topic with a relative of mine who used to be very into hot rods and such, and he said that as far as synthetic oil goes in gunk cleanup, it probably won't do much harm. He said that typically the only way you would have detergent strong enough to wear away the seals is if you were using engine flush (which is something you &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; should have done to a car regardless of age).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for synthetic blend oil, I read in Edmund's awhile back that in terms of the formulas, there's no law saying what constitutes a &quot;blend&quot; meaning that as long as there's at least 1% synthetic oil, the companies  are able to label it as a blend over conventional. Still, the article said that blends typically might be 10%-20% synthetic however the markup is so high, that you're better off going with full synthetic if you really think it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T21:11:50.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-20T21:51:17.000" Score="3" ViewCount="14253" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CBR 600 F4i idles at about 3000 rpm when the engine is cold, after about 2 to 3 minutes when the engine warms up, it settles back down to regular idle speed of about 1300 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T03:07:41.897" Title="How fast should a Honda CBR 600 F4i idle when the engine is cold" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1733" CreationDate="2011-08-21T04:16:09.577" Score="11" ViewCount="205391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help trouble shooting my honda civic. It will not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving it earlier today and I went to drive it again when it would not start. I'm glad I was at home when it decided to quit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the key goes normally until I try to get it to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon the regular engine starting key turn area the dash lights dim and there maybe a single 'tch sound or no sound at all coming from the engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the hood I noticed that the right battery terminal with the big red rubber cover was heavily corroded. So I attempted to remove the corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that there was a wire that goes from the terminal to the &lt;code&gt;pump motor relay&lt;/code&gt; that was not connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to see if having this wire connected to the terminal would change my outcomes but I could not get it screwed onto the terminal as it once was as the screw in the terminal is heavily corroded and I'll need to get a hammer or something to bang it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rested it on what was left of the screw in the terminal to see if a connection could be made and tried to start it again however there was no noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be my next trouble shooting step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, thanks for the good advice!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I borrowed a battery charger and charged the battery. It took around 15 minutes to charge, upon trying to start it again I did get a few clicks as if the starter was trying to go but the engine did not start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up push starting the car as I was out of town and I needed to get back into the city. While I was driving the engine seemed to struggle when idling with the A/C on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll replace the battery and see if that resolves the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" LastEditorUserId="953" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T16:08:48.347" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T16:29:32.080" Title="What could cause my Honda Civic to not start? And how can I address the issue?" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|starter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2011-08-21T17:34:50.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the dash lights dim and the starter doesn't turn, it's usually either the battery going bad or the starter that's at fault. I'd check the battery voltage both without any consumers and with someone trying to operate the starter motor and would expect at least 12.8V (no load) and about 10V (trying to start), otherwise the battery is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery checks out OK, I'd give the starter motor and the solenoid a loving whack or five with a rubber mallet to see if that frees it up and gets it to turn again. If it does you're probably still looking at a starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T17:34:50.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1789" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:08:00.210" Score="5" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which motorcycles are well known for being easy to maintain and repair, and would be suited for a beginner to cut his teeth on? What are some features of motorcycles that I should look for, when trying to decide if a motorcycle would be best suited for me to learn maintenance and repair on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a cruiser or touring bike, I've little to no experience with mechanical work, and I'm looking for a bike that will let me learn at my own pace, rather than force me to dive in to the deep end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T03:45:36.687" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T08:00:41.750" Title="I am looking to buy a motorcycle which I can fully (or as close to fully) maintain and repair on my own. Which models should I look at?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:29:11.890" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the transmission that converts the high rpm of the engine into the lower rpm of the wheels rotation? Let's say that an engine was running at 500 rpm (this refers to the rpm of the crankshaft, right?) but the wheels obviously aren't running at 500 rpm, so what mechanism lowers the rpm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also confused by the sizes of the gears in the transmissions that I've seen cross sections of. If the rpm of the engine was 400 rpm but the wheels were only turning at 10 rpm wouldn't the gear ratio have to be huge? It would be 40:1 , but when I see the gears of the transmission the gear ratios don't look anywhere near that big. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="956" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:47:54.257" Title="How do the cycles of the engine get converted into cycles of the wheels?" Tags="|engine|transmission|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1731" CreationDate="2011-08-21T21:47:54.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;yes, the gear ratio &lt;code&gt;is&lt;/code&gt; larger than you think.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer is that you're getting confused and thinking that only one number applies.  Let's think about some of the major components used to turn engine speed into road speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine revs (you can see this on the tachometer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission gearing (the gear ratios that you've seen cited).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final drive (this is a base multiplier that you don't normally hear about).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circumference of the wheel + tire combination (used to turn rotations into forward motion - not part of your question but important if you want to think rpm =&gt; mph).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine speed = 400 rpm (idling along).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission gearing = 3.454 (first gear in my car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final drive = 3.9 (again, from my car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives us a combined ratio of &lt;code&gt;3.454 * 3.9 = 13.5&lt;/code&gt; (approximately).  So, for every 13.5 rotations of the engine, I can expect one rotation of the driven wheels.  At 400 rpm on the tachometer, this amounts to about 30 rotations of the wheels during one minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were a crazy person, I might opt to swap out the final drive in my car in an effort to create an acceleration monster.  For instance, with a 4.444 final drive, I would be looking at a combined ratio of &lt;code&gt;4.444 * 3.9 = 17.33&lt;/code&gt;.  At 400 engine rpm, this would translate to about 23 wheel rotations over that minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rallispec.com/Subaru%20Gear%20Chart.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rallispec site&lt;/a&gt; for my numerical reference.  I openly lust for their gearsets.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:47:54.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2011-08-22T01:33:46.387" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Upon the regular engine starting key turn area the dash lights dim and&#xA;  there maybe a single 'tch sound or no sound at all coming from the&#xA;  engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I know this sound well.  This sounds like a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps that I would suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Charge the battery with a plug-in battery charger.  They aren't terribly expensive to purchase (this same problem is why I have one).  You might be able to get a loaner / rental.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the battery can take a charge, drive the car for a while &lt;em&gt;near your home&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stop the car in your driveway.  Count to ten.  Try to restart the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat step 3 until your confidence is restored.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the things that I'm trying to help you diagnose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the alternator dead / insufficient?  On my car, a primary indicator would be the volt meter dropping steadily as the battery discharged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the battery dead / incapable of holding sufficient charge?  Remember, batteries are a consumable part.  Their lifespan is variable as well: in general, three years is still youngish but seven years is old.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the connectors bad?  You did mention corrosion on the connectors (which is more likely a chalky substance).  It's not impossible that the gunk in question was so bad that it prevented a solid connection from the alternator to the battery.  If so, no charge and no start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T01:33:46.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1720" CreationDate="2011-08-22T07:59:35.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is the condition of the radiator - if it is missing a lot of fins or full of gunk, it won't cool as efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your heater isn't working either then you definitely have a cooling system issue - I would replace the thermostat as a matter of course, and give the whole cooling system a good flush through (including the rad and the heater matrix) to get rid of the rust, much and other debris that builds up in there. Also check the condition of the water pump, as if it isn't pumping the coolant round then it won't cool anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T07:59:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:37:54.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Bob, you should definitely charge the battery when you get a chance, but first and foremost, get those to terminals out of there. You can go to Advance auto and get a good set of corrosion resistant terminals for under 10 dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take some electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and clean the posts on the battery as best you can with a paper towel, then let 'em dry (shouldn't take long with any alcohol based cleaner) and then coat them with dielectric grease to help ensure you have a good connection, and to prevent corrosion going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also take this time to make sure the top of the battery is clean, with corrosion you often end up with little metal flecks all over the top of the battery. I have lost as much as 10 volts across the top of my battery, which made an already poor connection that much worse. Once that is all taken care of, you should be able to start 'er up and give it a spin, 10 minutes in the neighborhood should be enough to get the battery holding a solid charge for a while, and if it dies again you're looking at either the battery no longer holding a charge or the alternator not producing enough charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're in the bay dealing with the battery you also would probably do well to check your grounds. Silly little things can cause very big problems in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:37:54.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:47:36.993" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not too sure but this looks usefull;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bulkky.com/honda-motorcycle/cbr600/cbr600rr-03-04/honda-cbr600rr-2003-%E2%80%93-2004-fuel-system-lubrication-system-specification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bulkky.com/honda-motorcycle/cbr600/cbr600rr-03-04/honda-cbr600rr-2003-%E2%80%93-2004-fuel-system-lubrication-system-specification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thought that might be the case, I suppose alternatively phone up your local garage or tuning specialist and they might be able to tell you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastEditorUserId="959" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T10:28:46.780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T10:28:46.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1740" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:55:03.613" Score="2" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the emissions tests are different in other countries so I specified UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A garage just failed my girlfriends 1.4 Golf MK4 and said it was smoking bad, they tried sparks, cat, lambda, oil change and a couple of other common things, they say it's engine strip/replace time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read on more than one forum that the piston rings can go on these cars. Is that the most likely cause of the failure? The engine wasn't particularly well looked after before she has only had it a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:16:21.823" Title="Volkswagen Golf Mk4 - Failed emission test (UK)" Tags="|golf|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2019" CreationDate="2011-08-22T14:12:03.427" Score="3" ViewCount="2726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevy Cobalt 2007, and it has been doing this for a while. If I press the brake a little harder, the rattling stops. It doesnt rattle until I press the brake. Leading me to believe there is a problem with my rotors or my caliper. But it seems more like its my suspension. Please let me know what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="960" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:25:29.183" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T12:57:03.697" Title="Rattle in my left tire area everytime I brake slowly from more then 80kmh (50mph)?" Tags="|brakes|suspension|chevrolet|brake-rotor|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T14:51:04.107" Score="7" ViewCount="57490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a parking spot for my car, but it is weedy gravel.  I've been warned that storing a car on grass is very bad because transpiration from the grass will rust out the car's underbody.  Presumably this warning would also apply to my parking spot.  I laid a tarp over the gravel, but since this allows pooled water to evaporate, it may not be much better.  I did poke some holes in the tarp to allow some of the deeper pools to drain, but I hit the point of diminishing returns rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those of us without a paved surface, what is the best way to store a car?  Is it worth it to build an inclined surface so that water will run off?  It would seem to be relatively easy to do this with a big sheet of plywood and some 2x4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is gravel itself a good place to store a car?  It seems like some of the same problems presented by grass would be present — water would be evaporating up out of the soil, albeit at a slower rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="874" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T04:14:46.570" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T20:04:04.610" Title="Best way to store a car off pavement" Tags="|rust|parking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1737" CreationDate="2011-08-22T15:16:21.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A smoking engine is going to ensure an emission test failure pretty much anywhere these days...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; see the engine smoke when it's idling for a while and/or when you rev it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn piston rings certainly would a good reason for a smoking engine, but it can also be something fairly simple like worn valve guides or worn valve guide seals. Either way you cannot determine this without stripping the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd get a second opinion from another garage, preferably a VW specialist, before doing anything drastic, though. I'd also think that getting a remanufactured engine is probably cheaper than getting the existing engine rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:16:21.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2011-08-22T15:51:49.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be hesitant to make a raised platform using wood. Keep in mind even a very light car is around 3000 lbs, the last thing you really want to do is park your car and have the front wheels go right through that platform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood wouldn't be a bad idea to help kill the weeds (though weed killer would have worked pretty well also). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same boat at the moment actually. My plan being to get some sand to lay down over the grass, which will smother it and absorb a lot of the water before it gets to the soil, then once that has sat for a week or so, shovel out a spot's worth of gravel/shale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:51:49.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1746" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:40:34.897" Score="1" ViewCount="3613" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my family members owns a Ford Econoline E150 modified with a roof extender and power wheelchair lift, however the engine is a stock V8 which runs on regular gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, after a fairly long road trip (300 miles total) the check engine light comes on and the car has a P0104 trouble code. Although googling tuns up pages saying it's the MAF or a leak in the intake, our MAF sensor is fine but there are signs of EGR trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what could be causing this EGR problem, and also, whether having a roof extender and power wheelchair lift would require we treat the car as a commercial vehicle/truck rather than consumer car since there's a bit more load on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the car is only at around 23,000 miles, however it is a 2002 Econoline, so I doubt this is due to the engine being worn down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T19:07:05.887" Title="Engine Code p0104 - EGR issues?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|dtc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:45:19.507" Score="5" ViewCount="578" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Saab 9-5 Wagon 9-5 Air Conditioner (upper vents) Fan stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've examined the DICE fuses, but they all seem to be good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be checking next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T11:24:29.963" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T12:34:13.827" Title="2001 Saab 9-5 Air Conditioner Fan (upper vents) not working" Tags="|ac|saab|9-5|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1192" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:46:37.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;https://market.android.com/details?id=com.zonewalker.acar&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aCar&lt;/a&gt; for a few months now and I've never had an issue. I used to do all my tracking in an Excel sheet, however having the Droid app really helps ensure that I'm able to jot the info as soon as I have work done, rather than postponing things and entering them later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;aCar lets you track logs for as many cars as you want, supports CSV and other format exports, and it even lets you sync your logs with Dropbox so you don't have to worry about constantly hooking up your phone to copy the data to your computer locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only a $5 app, but it's money well spent but it's still robust enough that I haven't had a need for a desktop app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a program called Mileage which is a fairly light MPG tracker, however I had to stop using it awhile back because somehow it marked me as getting 9999999 MPG one week despite my valid numbers -- and when I tried restoring my backups, it failed so I ended up losing all my MPG data, but thankfully I had an Excel file with my maintenance data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastEditorUserId="4489" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T18:57:37.177" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T18:57:37.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1747" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:25:25.103" Score="2" ViewCount="1684" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic says the right front strut of my Tacoma pickup truck is leaking oil. &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; What do I need to consider if I postpone repairs until I save the money? &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt;  What are tell-tell signs that I need to replace a strut to prevent damage, or further damage to vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:59:47.170" Title="When must I repair or replace a strut?" Tags="|toyota|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:22:19.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking only in generalities (not being familiar with Fords of any kind), EGR systems fall victim to damaged vacuum lines occasionally, so check those.  They can also clog up with carbon enough to fail to operate properly.  Neither would normally happen in so few miles, but if the load was heavy enough, I suppose the enrichment program might lead to the second issue.  How's your gas mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:22:19.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1745" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:59:47.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the struts are a major part of your suspension and if ride quality has been poor of late, it's certainly time to look into replacing the struts if the coil springs are still in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're postponing the repairs, you really need to be aware that you could end up incurring a larger bill because of the delay, but that very delicate driving will make this less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to try to keep to major roadways, no offroading, no load carrying with the Tacoma for a while, otherwise you're increasing the risk of furthering the damage. If the strut were to freeze it could be pushed completely through the strut tower and into the engine bay if you hit a large pot hole, etc. You could also damage the strut mounts which go a long way toward ride safety and quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosing hydraulic oil from your strut, you're not likely to be able to hold off too long before the problem gets worse. It's certainly something you can replace at home if you're concerned about the bill, but you will need a few less than common tools (spring compressors, pickle forks, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:59:47.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2011-08-22T19:07:05.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Symptoms for a bad EGR valve and a bad MAF sensor aren't too different, it is a fair possibility that the MAF needs to be cleaned (easy to do). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just take the MAF sensor out, clean the electrical connection and spray through the sensor with some MAF cleaner or (though it's harsher it does work) Carb cleaner. Inspect the element, it should be a small silver filament, similar to what you'd see in a light bulb or an older space heater. Once that's taken care of put a bit of Dielectric grease on the electrical connection and give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the MAF sensor could be failing due to having a clogged air filter. Pop the filter out and take a look, if it's dirty (a vehicle that old with low mileage may not have received adequate air filter replacements) just simply replace it and if possible either wipe out the air box with a damp rag or spray it out with compressed air to remove some of the dust sitting in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T19:07:05.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1754" CreationDate="2011-08-22T19:13:43.227" Score="4" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to be used for car maintenance/restoration work and around the house repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="229" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T11:54:53.900" Title="What functions &amp; features should I look for when buying a multimeter?" Tags="|electrical|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:42:18.103" Score="4" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idle surges when in neutral and park, but there is no noticeable surge in gear or reverse. The car has an automatic transmission, if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to this point replaced the Fuel pressure regulator, done new plugs, cleaned the IAC and throttle body, replaced the MAP sensor, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter, replaced the CVVT solenoid gasket and cleaned the CVVT solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting (at last checking) an ODB-II code for &quot;Camshaft sensor output incompatible&quot;, I don't have the code handy, else I'd list it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get rid of this strange surging issue and fix the one last lingering CEL code so I can get the car inspected (NYS inspection)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T20:01:43.227" Title="'00 Volvo S40 Idle surging" Tags="|cel|volvo|surging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1749" CreationDate="2011-08-23T08:44:30.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a couple of bits and pieces but not enough to recomend, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=26346&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a forum with some people that sound like they know thier stuf;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I hear Fluke meters are the business. But for 90% of people just go and drop $50 or something at a decent&#xA;  tool store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T08:44:30.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1768" CreationDate="2011-08-23T09:01:47.577" Score="3" ViewCount="7136" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the 'clutch catches very high' question but obviously the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Peugeot 206 X reg and I have had it since 30K miles and it has run fine and I and the previous owner looked/looking after it. Basically I need my foot firm to the floor now (65K miles on the clock) otherwise I get that dreaded crunch noise you get when you don't put the clutch pedal down enough. It has always need a bit of travel when you press on the clutch pedal but I believe it used to be a bit better than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch does not slip at all and the car runs great. Is this indicative of anything going wrong, does it just need the clutch cable replacing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastEditorUserId="959" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T10:56:57.943" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T10:56:57.943" Title="Clutch catches VERY low, is this bad?" Tags="|clutch|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2011-08-23T11:16:15.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be an indicator of anything bad or a cable replacement needed, although worth checking while you have the car looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an adjustment of the clutch cable length should be all that is required. It's very quick and easy to do to set it up to the height you feel comfortable with. There should be an automatic adjuster on the pedal, so this may need fixing/replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per comment - if your car has a direct hydraulic connection from the pedal, you should be able to either alter the lever arm on the pedal, or check the hydraulic pressure in the line - if it is too low you could get this symptom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T13:32:07.497" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T13:32:07.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1749" CreationDate="2011-08-23T14:32:55.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Core functionality of a multimeter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measures Voltage&lt;/strong&gt; - the majority will cope here, as you typically are only dealing with 0 - 12 volts across most areas. You aren't going to need it to measure high tension things such as spark plugs, as you can check them using far simpler methods (such as a spark from engine block to removed spark plug)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measures Current&lt;/strong&gt; - currents in automotive circuits and audio circuits can be very high (4 or 5 Amps in a headlight circuit, 100s of Amps to the starter), look for a multimeter with high current capability (2 to 10 Amps isn't too hard to find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measures Resistance&lt;/strong&gt; - you'll probably find the most useful part of this is an audible continuity checker for checking cables deep in the bowels of your car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frequency&lt;/strong&gt; - less common on multimeters, but can be useful when working out speed/timing issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure it is water resistant, and ideally comes in a rubber housing (as per @CodeBlend - Fluke are generally a robust and accurate brand to go for)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything more, and you're likely to need a computer with adapter and software to look at your ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:00:58.020" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:00:58.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1757" CreationDate="2011-08-23T14:45:18.850" Score="2" ViewCount="19775" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light just came on in my 2000 Camry.  It has 180,781 miles, and the 180k mark is the recommended timing belt replacement mark.  I've checked the tightness on the gas cap, and I'm hoping that the light is on just to get me to take my car in to have the timing belt changed.  Does Toyota do this?  It seems like a good move on their part.  Anyway, I've already had the timing belt changed, and I'm just hoping my mechanic didn't reset whatever needs to be reset to prevent the light from showing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my chances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:30:46.837" Title="What does the Check Engine Light on 2000 Camry at 180,781 miles mean?" Tags="|toyota|cel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:00:00.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's got anything to do with the timing belt change interval, but the only way to find out is to hook up the car to an appropriate code reader to find out what code is triggering the check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:00:00.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:17:47.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no immediate way to just know what's wrong, what you need to do is take the car to an advance auto or autozone and have them hook up and ODB-II code reader. They will tell you what code is coming up and can clear the code for you if you'd like. This is a free service, and they will often be able to recommend parts or service based on the CEL reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at 180,000 unless you're experiencing some change in the way the vehicle drives it could easily be an O2 sensor if they haven't been changed out during the course of your ownership, but that's 100% a shot in the dark. It could also be a 1 or very few time misfire that occurred, and that would clear itself after 50 miles driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:17:47.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1760" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:01:17.657" Score="4" ViewCount="3220" Body="&lt;p&gt;So does forced induction negate the effect of engine braking on compression motors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, going down an incline, drop into 3rd (automatic) to get some engine braking going. With my new Chevy Cruze which has a turbo, it seems like it doesn't matter what I do in what gear, there just isn't any engine braking ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motors are similar size 1.6 vs 1.4 (turbo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Maybe new tags like Forced-Induction, Turbo and Supercharger should be added&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T13:31:39.053" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:39:28.687" Title="Forced induction and engine braking" Tags="|engine|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:31:26.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How serious are you about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;strong&gt;pressure treated 2&quot; x 12&quot; planks under the tires&lt;/strong&gt; will protect them from ground rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sun&lt;/strong&gt; will age your paint job and rubber. You'd be doing your car a favor to put some kind of &lt;strong&gt;cover&lt;/strong&gt; over it that will shade the car and deflect rain. I have seen canvas &quot;garages&quot; for $200 that would do the trick, although keeping air flowing through is important for moderating temperature and humidity. One option is to put the legs of such a garage on concrete blocks, to let air flow underneath and to serve as an anchor. Still, if you live in a windy area, it may not stay put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're sending the rain to the edges, you can build a simple &lt;strong&gt;french drain&lt;/strong&gt; around the perimeter. Dig a shallow trench at the perimeter of the garage, with a constant slope to one corner. Continue the trench away from the site to a convenient spot (the street, a dry well, etc.). Fill the trench with coarse gravel / drain rock. Optionally put a layer of landscape fabric over the gravel to keep out fines, and then a thin layer of small gravel over that to make things look nice &amp;amp; keep the fabric in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lay down some &lt;strong&gt;heavy plastic&lt;/strong&gt; over the parking area. This will block moisture from coming up from the soil. A layer of gravel over the plastic will keep it in place and spread the weight of the car out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you just lay down plastic without the other steps, it will probably just end up holding &lt;strong&gt;puddles&lt;/strong&gt; of rainwater, so you won't accomplish much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T21:31:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1758" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:49:08.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The turbo shouldn't have any effect here after the first fraction of a second - a turbo runs off exhaust gases so with your foot off the accelerator it will spin down, and thus giving no forced induction. I don't know if there would be an effect with a supercharger, but I'm guessing not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in size will have an impact though 0.2 of a litre is quite a big difference in percentage terms, so it doesn't surprise me that you can feel the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a lot of engine braking in my 2.5l turbocharged Subaru once the turbo spins down (I do have to wait for that half a second or so after taking my foot off the accelerator for it to take effect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T21:49:08.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1758" CreationDate="2011-08-23T23:45:29.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may also have to do with your new vehicle more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what your previous one is but did mention your new one is a Cruze.  Especially if you purchased the ECO model than this may be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevy is trying to squeeze every MPG they can out of this car, such as on the ECO manual having an &quot;ECO overdrive gear&quot; (just a taller gear to keep the RPMs lower when crusing on the highway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more commonly known items related to fuel mileage are size of the engine and weight of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamics have a big play to, the more wind resistance (drag), the more work the engine has to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is rolling resistance, some tires are rated as &quot;low rolling resistance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these items to reduce fuel consumption are going to also make the feel of engine braking less as the car will coast easier on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine braking works a lot better on a vehicle that wants to slow down on its own and so needs the engine pushing it forward to keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response to Comment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, again with the Eco stuff, maybe they are doing something odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine braking happens because when you let off the gas pedal at speed the car makes the choice to provide 0 fuel to the engine allowing the engine to be rotated by the rotation of the tires, unlike when stopped and you release the gas pedal it maintains an idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe Chevy has something where the Eco still provides some fuel and continues to fire. Since consistency is one of the most important things to good fuel mileage, they may have found that normal engine braking for a standard driver was more of a hindrance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is all just wild guessing, I haven't read anything on that but I could see there being something behind better fuel mileage by having the vehicle better maintain its own speed and requiring the input of the brake pedal to do the stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the general driver is mostly always on the gas pedal or the brake, they don't know anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T06:11:51.507" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T06:11:51.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1766" CreationDate="2011-08-24T00:39:42.293" Score="2" ViewCount="7289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at replacing the springs on my vehicle and am trying to get stiffer springs while avoiding a major change in ride height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my vehicle, one of the old common ways to do this was to install springs from a special edition (88SS) of the car (either junkyard pull or order OEM). These springs are now super rare and I am considering getting a set custom made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Wire Diameter, Coil Diameter, Free Length and Spring Constant of both my original springs and the 88SS springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to figure out is, given a certain amount of applied weight, what the height of the spring will be so I can compare the specs of the two springs and see how much of a difference in compressed height there will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll provide the specs below if you'd like to answer with the actual numbers (please show your work though), or the formula itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OEM Springs (F/R)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wire Diameter: 13.8 mm / 13.8 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Coil Diameter: 170 mm / 110.0 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Free Length: 294.5 mm / 336.5 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spring Constant: 146 lb/in / 188.2 lb/in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;88SS Springs  (F/R)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wire Diameter: 14.5 mm / 13.5 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Coil Diameter: 170 mm / 110.0 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Free Length: 263 mm / 317.0 mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spring Constant: 207 lb/in / 224 lb/in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1984 Nissan 300ZX Turbo 50th Anniversary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gross Vehicle Weight: 3,490 lbs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gross Front Axle Weight: 1,630 lbs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gross Rear Axle Weight: 1,860 lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side Note: the front weight is down about 60lbs from removal of the A/C and probably a good 5-10lbs from replacing the OEM air box with a K&amp;amp;N filter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spring Specifications courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.az-zbum.com/information.springs.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.az-zbum.com/information.springs.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:56:42.870" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T00:56:42.870" Title="How to determine the compressed height of a spring?" Tags="|suspension|springs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2011-08-24T02:49:21.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be worth trying out a tank of higher octane once, paying attention to how long it lasts over a tank of what you've normally been using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my 2001 Lancer went further on a tank if I used higher octane. It wasn't a lot, but enough that it was obvious: I routinely use the trip meter to measure how far a tank goes, and don't normally fill it until it's quite low. I suspect the EMU was detecting the slightly different output from higher rating fuel and leaning the mixture to compensate. Since your car is newer, it may well do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T02:49:21.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2011-08-24T05:08:15.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this question before. The debate is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller engines have less moving parts to break, bigger engines have more parts to distribute load. Choose your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really though, what are you going to be doing? Drag racing with spray or huge boost? Probably not gonna want a smaller engine (at least, a smaller block that is...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T05:08:15.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1767" CreationDate="2011-08-24T05:47:14.617" Score="5" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic 2008 whose exterior plastic on one of the taillights was broken sometime ago. I duck taped it to keep it in place. The taillight bulb itself is good and functioning properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have in terms of doing this DIY? &#xA;Is it possible to just replace the exterior plastic/glass? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="826" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T13:26:57.367" Title="Replacing Honda Civic Taillight ?" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1762" CreationDate="2011-08-24T13:07:36.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the spring rate (you call it spring constant) so you can calculate it yourself. ;) The spring rate is the amount of force (weight/mass) the spring requires to compress the specified amount. For example, your OEM front springs compress 1 inch when you put 146 pounds on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with the numbers you provided the OEM height can be calculated. The car puts down 1630 pounds of the front axle. I'll asume this weight is evenly distributed and it's the unsprung mass, just for sake of simplicity. So, each spring carries 815 pounds. Because the front spring has a spring rate of 146 pounds per inch we can calculate that the spring will compress by (815/146) 5.58 inches. The unloaded spring is 11.59&quot; inches high, so the loaded height of the spring is (11.59-5.58) 6.01&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you want stiffer springs with the same ride height you need to have springs with the following specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, we have the desired compressed height: 6.01&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, we have the spring rate: 207 lb/in (88SS front springs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, we have the weight per spring: 815 lb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, these springs compress (815/207) 3.94&quot;. To have a ride height of 6.01&quot; we must have a free length of (6.01+3.94) 9.95&quot;. This translates to a free length in milimeters of ((9.95*2.54)*10) 252.73mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, very nice car! I love the 300ZX, but unfortunately it's very very rare in my country. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="218" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T12:59:28.163" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T12:59:28.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1765" CreationDate="2011-08-24T13:39:35.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the glass is bonded on to the reflector unit, so you probably won't be able to buy the glass on its own - You'll have to buy a complete unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to ask around any scrapyards/junkyards in your area, see if they have any Civics in stock, as that would be considerably cheaper than a new unit from Honda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent workshop manual should describe the removal/refitting procedure, most cars I've seen it is usually held in by 2 or 3 bolts and/or a couple of plastic clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T13:39:35.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2011-08-24T13:43:32.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the 206, but my old 306 (1995) had a cable clutch with a self-adjuster, and the latter quite regularly got itself out of adjustment - The trick was to undo the clutch end of the cable, which was fairly easy to get to, and give it several sharp tugs to reset the adjuster, then re-attach it and pump the pedal a few times to adjust it back into position again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T13:43:32.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-24T16:31:47.433" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Civic with 65K miles. I have not done the 60K service yet, but the maintenance schedule also says that is the 3 year maintenance. Is the age of the car as important as the mileage when following the schedule? Should I have all the maintenance suggested through the 120k miles / 10 year maintenance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the work contained in the 60k/3yrs service, this would also include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inspect idle speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace transmission fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace timing belt, inspect water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace engine coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="969" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T16:40:23.293" Title="Factory Maintenance Schedule by Mileage or Years?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|civic|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1769" CreationDate="2011-08-24T16:40:23.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should do that maintenance every 3 years, or 60K miles, whichever comes first.  Some items wear based on usage, others deteriorate over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not up to 120K miles or 10 years, I don't see that you'd NEED to do that part now.  However, it certainly wouldn't hurt the car to do so (might hurt your bank account though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T16:40:23.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-24T16:54:24.080" Score="3" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three engine code on, two for two O2 sensors and one for EGR Value ($350). My mechanic is suspecting a short somewhere. My O2 sensors give almost 0 home resistance when it should give about 6 ohms. My question is this, repair is going to cost me quite a bit esp that the car is running 100% OK, it is just the checkengine light on, that I need to take care of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy and standard way to find short in the circuit? My car did give me some indication of it. If I dont drive it for a day or two, it might not start because of almost dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can if fix the EGR value which is kind of expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is MAZDA 626 year 2000 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/about_6157262_symptoms-bad-egr-valve_.html?ref=Track2&amp;amp;utm_source=ask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; lists side affects of bad EGR value, my car has none of these. No rough idling (800 rpm idle), great fuel economy, no knocking, no overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T15:05:38.730" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:38:20.053" Title="Find short circuit in your car" Tags="|mazda|o2-sensor|short|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1774" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:30:22.413" Score="25" ViewCount="427085" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I sit in my car for 30-40  minutes with the AC and the car idling, does that &quot;hurt&quot; the engine, or does it simply waste gas and pollute the air? Would it be better if I turned off the car? &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/888/are-there-any-advantages-of-idling-a-vehicle-vs-turning-it-off-and-back-on-again&quot;&gt;A similar question was asked&lt;/a&gt;, but it never addressed non-diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T20:52:01.190" Title="Is idling bad for your engine?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2011-08-24T18:20:57.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I've seen a number of (and been in one) car(s) that has overheated while idling.  Without airflow, you're depending on the fans and thermostat for more than if you were driving.  If all's well with the car, you should be perfectly fine idling for some time.  However, if the cooling system has an issue, or if the oil pump is getting weak, you may end up with a breakage that otherwise would not have happened (or at least wouldn't have happened as soon).  Think of extended idling as a stress test for the car, no problem all is well, but if not, you'll find out about it!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T18:20:57.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2011-08-24T20:16:19.443" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;letting the car idle isn't good for the car, especially with the AC on. What you're basically accomplishing is aiding in the car wearing without racking up any miles. With the cylinders firing, you are using several electrical components, putting some small amount of stress on the belts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ever seen ads for cars claiming high mileage but declaring that they are &quot;highway miles&quot; the claim they're attempting to make is that they aren't doing city driving with the vehicle (unnecessary idling and as such effectively putting miles on the engine but not the odometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever the engine is running, you are slowly wearing out some of the components of the vehicle. Doing this for a few minutes here or there doesn't make for a huge difference, but 30-40 minutes at a time would be more than equal to the amount of time you'd spend idling at lights/in traffic in a major city during a 1+hour commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, 2-3 minutes is fine; anything over 10, and the general consensus is that it's a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T20:16:19.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1771" CreationDate="2011-08-24T22:19:45.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only foreseeable problem would come from mixture problems due to your O2 sensor readings. Look for a wiring diagram somewhere, and see if the components share any common grounds or points. Repairing a wire can be cheap if you can do it, as the bulk of the labor cost will likely come in trouble shooting it. As far as the EGR goes, it is more of an emissions item and unless leaking would likely not cause any bad problems. It recirculates unburnt gas from your exhaust to decrease the amount released into the atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T22:19:45.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2011-08-24T22:21:05.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about Saab, but BMWs have a blowout resistor that controls the fan speed. The telltale that the resistor went bad is erratic/inoperative fan behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T22:21:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-25T00:40:23.200" Score="9" ViewCount="1128863" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car has powerful new battery (1 week old). I drove the car and after 4 hours, the car will not start, not even click when you try to start the car? All the lights are ok and they are not dim. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T06:15:01.080" Title="The car won't start,  not even click, but everything else works fine in the car" Tags="|starting|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2011-08-25T00:40:53.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Editing my answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had happened to me a couple of time and common symptoms that I found are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Loose Battery Connection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow the battery terminals got loose, tighten it and it will solve the problem. It happened to me before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Jump Start&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my latest case, even tighting the termainsl didn't work. I had to get a jump start. Even with jump start the car was &lt;em&gt;reluctant&lt;/em&gt; to start and then it started only we started the other car. The increased amperage solved the problem. Could it be the battery, No. I had new battery installed 2 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ignition Switch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the likely cause if all other lights work but your car does not click. This is the switch you turn in the key or it could be part of it that is connected to that mechanism in the steering wheel. To troubleshoot this, turn on all your lights, try to start the car. If the light dim considerably, your ignition switch is OK. In my case, when I opened the ignition switch, I saw a bandage around the Ignition Switch that propted me, may be this is the problem but I am not sure yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bad Starter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the starter is bad. It is good idea to check with a mechanic and see what could be the likely cause. A mechanic knows which cars comes with which problems. In some cars it is the starter that usually fails and that way you dont have to guess elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bad Solenoid&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another answer says, it could be just the solenoid that does not wants to engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bad Ground&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again from another answer, the ground may be not good enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bad Starter Connection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this seemed to be my problem in the first place :) The car will not start, not even click but all lights are ok. Put a stick and touch the wire on the starter and wow the car starts! I wonder what really is wrong but it is just touching of that wire that makes the car from no-start to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="865" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T14:26:39.527" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T14:26:39.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1113" CreationDate="2011-08-25T15:26:23.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that increasing speed will increase fuel economy if you are going below a certain speed; that speed varies with the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTPYW.png&quot; alt=&quot;fuel economy curves for various cars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_economy_in_automobiles#Speed_and_fuel_economy_studies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_economy_in_automobiles#Speed_and_fuel_economy_studies&lt;/a&gt; for a bit more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T15:26:23.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2011-08-25T20:58:02.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a much higher probability of not having enough oil pressure at idle.  If the engine has any issues - such as wear causing tolerances to be larger than initially engineered, or too thin of oil - the lack of oil pressure will be more exaggerated.  Idling for long periods could be disastrously more damaging to your engine then the same amount of time spent cruising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T20:58:02.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1718" CreationDate="2011-08-26T00:16:37.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;this sounds just like a clogged fuel filter to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car starts fine because the fuel has had time to percolate through the clogged filter but once that fuel is used up the engine starts starving for fuel because the flow through the filter is not great enough to run normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it occurs randomly it will be hard to test this.  But I would try slightly depressing the gas immediately when the car starts and see if you get the engine stuttering.  I believe with the gas pedal depressed, the fuel line pressure will be greater so that it can push enough gas through the clog to keep running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago I had a 1989 Mercury Topaz (US) and when I would sit in neutral at a light it would idle fine, but when I shifted into drive the car would suddenly die.  The issue was the fuel filter was clogged and when I shifted into drive the engine would expect a sudden increase in fuel but the clog slowed it down and the engine would stall.  Tapping the gas pedal right when I shifted into drive solved the problem until I was able to replace the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T00:16:37.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2011-08-26T16:50:42.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what the mechanism should look like.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpB1h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to find a way to get at the three gold screws that hold the motor to the rest of the assembly. This will allow you to disengage the motor, so the rest of the assembly can move freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful: once you disengage the motor the window could drop and break.&lt;/strong&gt;  You'll want to get somebody to hold it, or wedge something under the lift arm (inside the door) so it can't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T16:50:42.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-26T17:49:41.733" Score="4" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Audi A6 Avant 2.5 diesel whose current Audi battery (approx. 650 CCA) is dying.  Am looking at an Exide X-Tra Plus at 900 CCA to replace it.  However, should I be concerned that the alternator can't handle the recharge in this and, instead, go with a lower CCA?  The car has a warm start problem - hence wanting a higher crank-capacity battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="974" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T18:39:03.107" Title="possible alternator-battery mismatch if I replace the existing battery with a much higher CCA one?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1783" CreationDate="2011-08-26T18:14:38.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your alternator will not have any trouble keeping the higher CCA battery charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T18:14:38.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-27T00:57:12.207" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;An irregular knocking sound began about a week ago in our 2000 Honda Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic has told us that the Acc. Belt Tension Pulley needs to be replaced, and that this is related to the AC compressor in such a way that both should be replaced.  Something about the way they fit together, they said if we didn't replace them at the same time, we'd be back in the shop within a couple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that the AC compressor replacement is ~$500 on top of the rest of the work to be done.  The AC works fine in the car, pumping out cold air etc.  Does it really need to be replaced as well?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="976" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T11:36:48.683" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:36:48.683" Title="A/C Compressor Replacement" Tags="|honda|civic|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-27T10:18:43.587" Score="3" ViewCount="18874" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Diesel Ford Fiesta (Mk4) - manual transmission, and its clutch pedal is very hard to push after a short drive. I.e. in the morning it's ok, but later it becomes very hard to push. I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like a problem with the hydraulics (right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has any ideas as to why this happens and what can I do to fix it?&#xA;The car has had 170000km, and as far as I understand, it has a hydraulic pump to aid with the pushing of the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastEditorUserId="719" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T09:09:41.180" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T01:08:12.383" Title="Clutch pedal hard to push" Tags="|ford|clutch|fiesta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2011-08-28T00:49:22.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are they both the originally installed parts? The only way this can be true is if at one point you installed a non-OEM part that altered the way they fit together. I have replaced plenty of belt driven parts, and never replaced any other items, unless they were altered at one point or another. The compressor is usually locked in place, so this is hard to believed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T00:49:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2011-08-28T02:42:48.967" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things to consider when looking at bikes if learning to do maintenance is a consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Age.&lt;/strong&gt;  Older bikes tend to be much simpler, but they're not as well-engineered and well-manufactured as newer ones.  Some will need more wrench time because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Availability of Parts.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you're buying an older bike, make sure you can get parts for it.  Motor vehicle manufacturers selling in the U.S. are required to supply parts for ten years after a model is out of production.  Some models which were popular or shared parts with other models tend to have most the essential parts (e.g., mechanicals but not cosmetic things like trim) available for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Style.&lt;/strong&gt;  The physical arrangement of the motorcycle will have a lot to do with how difficult it is to do certain things like checking and adjusting the valve clearance.  Some bikes (notably full-dress tourers) have a lot of fairing parts that have to come off to get to the innards.  Cruisers and naked standard bikes tend to be more open.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Origin.&lt;/strong&gt;  Japanese motorcycles tend to be relatively low-maintenance and don't take a lot of effort.  At the other end of the spectrum are Italian and German bikes which usually need more.  Service manuals for some more recent German models have been known to be written with the assumption that you've been through the manufacturer's training and have a full set of special tools to do the work.  American and British models fall in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factory Documentation.&lt;/strong&gt;  A service manual will spell out all of the maintenance and repair procedures in detail.  There are third-party manuals, but some aren't as good and may include a lot of boilerplate text that doesn't accurately describe the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Support.&lt;/strong&gt;  There's a forum on the Internet that caters to practically every bike that's ever been made in any quantity.  There are usually a few people on each who know the bike very well and can answer questions or have written articles on how to do specific services.  These are also good places to find out about what typically goes wrong with a specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="957" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T11:33:33.133" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:33:33.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1446" CreationDate="2011-08-28T06:34:17.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the culprit the jets were fine, however the float bowl was full of residue and water, as well as the jet carrier bolt being snapped in half so the jets were moving along to where they were not able to fuel the cylinder.  After a full strip down, rebuild and calibration its now firing on both cylinders correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T06:34:17.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-28T08:34:07.130" Score="5" ViewCount="3483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Pegaso 650 which has been sitting idle for about 7 years. The carbs were quite bad shape when I got it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I cleaned the carbs I was able to get the bike started but it was running really rough, so I cleaned the carbs again using aerosol cleaner and compressed air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can get the bike running for a second or two if I spray aerostart down the throat of the carbs, but the engine quickly dies after this. There is plenty of clean fuel in the float bowls, and when I remove the carbs there is traces of fuel in the intake manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think might be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T20:39:43.593" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T20:39:43.593" Title="Aprillia Pegaso 650 won't start after cleaning carbs, what might be wrong?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|aprilia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-28T14:47:03.397" Score="7" ViewCount="136257" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. The low beams aren't working. High beams are. The fuse is perfectly fine (tested and swapped out). The bulbs are fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic told me it could be the &quot;body modulator&quot;. I've never heard of this before. Could this be the problem? If so, how hard is it to change out for a shade tree mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what else could this be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="979" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T16:41:32.533" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T01:18:03.843" Title="Low beam headlights don't work, High beam headlights do" Tags="|electrical|headlight|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-28T23:03:06.303" Score="2" ViewCount="1891" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just bought a Honda Accord for a 1,000. Basically the only drive gear that works is my D3. The 1st, 2nd, and D4 gears won't let the car go past 30-40 mph. Is this a serious problem?? What has to be fixed???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T11:30:25.807" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:30:25.807" Title="My automatic Honda Accord will only go past 30-40 mph in D3...How big is this problem?" Tags="|honda|transmission|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1793" CreationDate="2011-08-29T04:36:36.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the transmission needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Expect to pay $1500 or more to have the work professionally done. If you can figure out how to install a replacement, you can probably buy a good one with warranty for $900 or so, and might be able to find a working one as-is for a lot less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T04:36:36.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1796" CreationDate="2011-08-29T12:03:18.333" Score="5" ViewCount="33546" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Compliance bushing, on my 2001 Honda Civic needs to be replaced. Is this something a backyard mechanic can do, or are there special tools required that only a real mechanic would have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Compliance Bushing is part #12 in the image below, it's part of the knuckle assembly on the front end of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kty4y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Civic Knuckle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T14:06:13.583" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:25:53.390" Title="Can I replace a compliance (Lower Control Arm) bushing myself?" Tags="|honda|civic|replace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1795" CreationDate="2011-08-29T15:39:14.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;fun&quot; part is going to be getting the original bushing out - you might have to cut or burn out the rubber, then cut through the outer metal ring without damaging the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to build a makeshift tool you can use to press in the new bushing - at the very least, use a socket that matches the out diameter of the bushing and use a vise to carefully press in the bushing, making sure that you only put force on the metal ring of the bushing and not the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it's doable if you're reasonably competent and have all the necessary tools, but depending on how corroded the original bushing is, it's not going to be a five minute job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T15:39:14.313" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-29T16:24:17.013" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the future, I could just replace the bulb as needed without replacing the whole lamp.&#xA;This is for a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="963" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T20:46:37.283" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T19:01:04.563" Title="Is there a kit that would allow me to replace a sealed beam headlamp with a halogen bulb?" Tags="|toyota|lights|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2677" CreationDate="2011-08-29T17:19:48.703" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2004 Neon RT 2.0 SOHC we had an issue with one of the rockers. When we took the valve cover off to replace the rocker, we noticed that there was no baffle in the valve cover. There were large peices of tin sitting against the outer walls of the head. It was obvious the baffle had been destroyed some how. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the problems we're having is that there is a lot of oil coming from the valve cover into the air box. I'm not sure if this line is supposed to be a breather or a PCV. There is also what I assume to be the EGR which goes from the side of the valve cover down into the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 2 weeks ago we got another valve cover with a baffle. There is still oil getting into the air box even with the baffle. Should either/both of these these outlets be a check valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air box has a built in holder for a sponge that collects the oil coming from the back of the valve cover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Why, with the baffle, is there oil still going into the air box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T21:12:24.330" Title="No check valve on valve cover" Tags="|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1818" CreationDate="2011-08-29T17:23:36.200" Score="11" ViewCount="74692" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between a mechanical clutch and a hydraulic clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performance/driving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reliability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance/Repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T17:54:15.127" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T20:45:27.510" Title="difference between mechanical and hydraulic clutches" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2011-08-29T18:52:46.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a copy of the electrical diagrams, you can trace them through and start testing each piece involved in the circuit. I had a similar problem with a Mitsubishi once, and it ended up being a bad headlight stalk...  The low beam portion had failed somehow without impairing the high beam or parking light functions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T18:52:46.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1826" CreationDate="2011-08-29T21:29:58.190" Score="4" ViewCount="38806" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the car is idling and the A/C is turned the engine will shutter hard and/or turn off. I've already replaced the IAC valve; it was working for a little, but now it's back to shutting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other things I can think of is the electronics controlling the IAC. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2004 dodge neon r/t SOHC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="1657" LastEditDate="2012-03-28T17:53:24.477" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T05:08:52.237" Title="Hard shuttering and engine dies when A/C is on at idle" Tags="|ac|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1786" CreationDate="2011-08-30T00:10:03.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles are on this Fiesta?  Also, when was the last time the clutch was replaced (if ever)?  Clutches in manual transmissions are wear-out parts, and its possible that it might be replaced.  I had a manual Dodge Dakota pickup with about 100k miles on it, and it was experiencing the same issue.  The resolution - got the clutch replaced, and it fixed the hard-to-push issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T00:10:03.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-30T03:30:51.227" Score="2" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Mitsubishi Airtrek 2wd with 86000k revs at 2250rpm for 30 seconds before slowing. Will this speed harm the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T21:44:25.300" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T21:44:25.300" Title="My 2001 Mitsubishi Airtrek revs at 2250rpm for 30 seconds before slowing. Will this speed harm the engine?" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1783" CreationDate="2011-08-30T09:10:44.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alternator will quite happily charge the battery, but remember that it will take longer to do so, so if you run the battery down when trying to start it, it'll be longer before it is fully charged again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There won't be any damage to the battery from using a lower-powered alternator to charge it, but there might be if you keep it at a low charge (e.g. doing lots of short journeys with loads of other electrical things on, so it doesn't get fully charged before you switch the car off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T09:10:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2011-08-30T09:15:58.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd get a multimeter and check though the circuit - as Brian says the point at which the current is switched is a common failure point - either in the switch or the relay if one is fitted. I've never heard of a body modulator and can't see how one would be fitted in a headlamp circuit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T09:15:58.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1786" CreationDate="2011-08-30T13:24:44.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the Fiesta, but since even much larger cars (with much strong clutch assemblies) don't have hydraulic pumps, I'd expect that it doesn't have one...  Should be a simple hydraulic system, basically just a master cylinder, a line, and a slave cylinder down to the actuator.  Possible problem with the transmission or the linkage from the slave to the trans/actuator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a clutch wears, the pedal action will grow heavier (assuming self-adjusting hydraulic clutch, which is pretty standard now).  It should be consistently heavy though, should not change noticeably throughout the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common problem is boiling the hydraulic fluid, requiring a flush/fill.  However, that creates the opposite problem.  The clutch pedal gets very light, sometimes sticking to the floor, and the clutch won't disengage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T13:24:44.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1804" CreationDate="2011-08-30T13:27:34.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a new behaviour?  Many cars (especially OBD-2, not so much earlier models) will rev to 2000 or even 2500 for 10-30 seconds on start when it's cooler out (some even do it on warm days).  If it's a new behaviour, you may have a faulty Idle Air Controller.  If it's always done it, I wouldn't worry about it too much since it's pretty common for newer cars to do that (wondering if maybe it's an emissions thing to help get the O2 sensor warmed up quicker?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T13:27:34.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-26T10:30:57.420" Score="5" ViewCount="13465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got horrible rust stains on my car's rims, and I'm at a loss as to how to get rid of them. A bit of googling suggests the use of steel wool, but I'm not sure how much I trust that. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lh2IF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="karim79" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T14:40:38.150" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T00:16:05.317" Title="How can I remove rust stains from chrome rims?" Tags="|wheels|rust|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2010-11-26T12:17:03.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xjv/R-100670289/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot;&gt;CLR&lt;/a&gt; in a very small spot to see if it can remove it. I'm not sure the effect it will have on metal so try it in a very small/inconspicuous spot first (maybe on the very edge of one of the spokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Scott Vercuski" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T12:17:03.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2010-11-26T14:14:07.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had very good results with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CarWashingCleaning/CarPaintCare/PRD~0392820P/Nevr-Dull%2525AE%252BMagic%252BWadding%252BPolish.jsp?locale=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nevr-Dull - Magic Wadding Polish&lt;/a&gt;.  It will take a bit more work to clean your wheels than CLR (or some other corrosive) but is probably safer for the wheels, and avoids the potential damage that steel wool might cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" OwnerDisplayName="chris" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T11:49:52.430" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T11:49:52.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-05-11T04:43:34.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using Cola and report back the results ... the Mythbusters didn't try Cola on Aluminum (which is what I am assuming your wheels are made of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try using one of the 3M (or any other brand) recycled plastic bottle scrubbers. The aluminum should not be harmed as it is a much stronger material than thin woven plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Spechal" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T04:49:10.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:57:57.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagebmx.com/community/index.php?showtopic=4004702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An Oxalic acid scrub is the old standard&lt;/a&gt; method of removing rust stains from chrome and other metal objects. It's sold as &quot;wood bleach&quot; in lumber yards, and likely sold as &quot;rust remover&quot; at hardware stores. My tin of the stuff is 20 years old, so I'm not familiar with what the brand names are today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Wayfaring Stranger" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T17:57:57.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2011-05-11T21:16:31.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mother's wheel polish has never failed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2492" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T21:16:31.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1817" CreationDate="2011-08-30T16:27:12.357" Score="10" ViewCount="162834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a main starter battery and a leisure batter in my van. They have been left unused for around a year with my van off the road. I am now trying to get it up and running however I am unable to charge either battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main battery is around 14 months old and the leisure is around 3 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a main charger which I have connected, however the charge gauge does not move when I connect the positive and negative leads to the batteries. When I touch the positive and negative leads together, they spark and the charge gauge moves. I therefore believe that the charger is working OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be something wrong with both batteries that is not allowing the current to flow around the battery from positive to negative and therefore stopping them from being charged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastEditorUserId="53" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T02:12:46.410" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T15:14:54.433" Title="Car Battery won't charge after sitting for a Year" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1815" CreationDate="2011-08-30T18:48:32.483" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume the battery is completely dead? Multimeter not showing anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of chargers that will try and revive a battery (Accumate/Optimate for example) that's pretty much completely dead, but your average parts store charger needs some charge left in the battery before it'll work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you get the batteries recharged, you've already severely shortened their lifespan unless they're deep discharge batteries. In fact you might already have ended up with two large paperweights but I'd still try to recharge them and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're storing batteries for longer than a couple of months I would suggest that you'll recharge them from time to time or hook them up to good trickle/float charger (not the 4.99 special). These batteries really don't like standing around discharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T18:48:32.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:29:46.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanical clutches have a cable for actuation, and typically need adjusting throughout the life of the clutch.  Hydraulically actuated clutches tend to be self-adjusting, as long as there is enough fluid in the reservoir.  However, this does mean that hydraulic clutches can be susceptible to air bubbles in the lines, and water in the system which can lead to premature rusting.  Consider silicone fluids for clutch applications to reduce water problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T21:29:46.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2011-08-31T12:42:43.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having owned cars with both, I can't say I've noticed any significant performance difference between the two. I can't see any reason why a hydraulic one would be slower or more sluggish than a cable one - bear in mind they both work on the same principle, just that a hydraulic system pushes an incompressible inner medium (the fluid) through a flexible outer pipe, wheras a bowden cable typically pulls a non-stretchable steel cable through a similar flexible pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found hydraulically operated clutches to be more reliable in the shorter term (i.e. they don't need to be constantly adjusted), but more expensive to fix when they do eventually go wrong (Typically the seals on one or other of the cylinders perishing after a decade or so) - but then it is typically easier to get at the cylinders than it is to get at the cable runs on some cars I've dealt with. I have found that cables tend to sieze or break through rust at similar intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulics are better for cars where the clutch and pedal are far apart, such as rear engined cars, as a long cable would otherwise be needed. They can also go round much tighter corners than a bowden cable. A cable however is much cheaper to make in the first place, and requires less space as it doesn't need cylinders and reservoirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T12:42:43.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1822" CreationDate="2011-08-31T12:58:19.217" Score="5" ViewCount="6995" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: this is in reference to the previously mentioned 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon.  This isn't a track car: it's only for fun street commutes and general Daddy duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has upwards of 115K miles now and I'm hearing what sounds like aged bushing clunks and creaks coming from the rear suspension, especially at fairly low speed largish bumps and dips.  I recognize that the bushings are consumable parts so I'm planning to replace the ones that I can do with hand tools and task out the ones that I can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the question: which type of bushing will have a longer lifespan, stock replacements or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19.18101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;urethane&lt;/a&gt; &quot;upgrades&quot;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very aware of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NVH&lt;/a&gt; price that must be paid with a full set of urethane bushings but I'm willing to consider it if it means a longer time between replacements.  At the same time, a full set of stock replacements will also feel much better than the frankly weary parts that I have in there now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information on which bushings can definitely be replaced with hand tools, which definitely can't and which are on the borderline would also be appreciated by both me and future readers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:37:41.267" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T20:40:36.963" Title="Which will have longer lifespan: stock or urethane bushings?" Tags="|suspension|subaru|replace|vibration|impreza|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1821" CreationDate="2011-08-31T15:23:20.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, Polyurethane bushes last longer than standard rubber ones, as the plastic doesn't perish in the same way that rubber does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention, there is a price to this, as they are generally harder than the equavalent OEM bushes, however many manufacturers offer a variety of stiffnesses, depending on the intended use - some of the softest ones aren't much harder than stock, wheras full race-spec ones will be. One caveat to be aware of is that the added stiffness of the Poly bushes will put additional strain on the other suspension components, which can lead to them failing through fatigue earlier than they otherwise would - In particular it is not recommended to use stiff bushes in some designs of trailing arm suspension for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to which can be easily replaced by hand, a general rule of thumb is that any bushes that are pressed in to surrounding metal will need to be pressed out again, and thus will be difficult to do without a hydraulic press - though not normally impossible if you have a big vice, a 'suitable sized drift' and a big hammer! Any bush which is simple clamped in place by the component it is bushing should be fairly easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T15:23:20.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1783" CreationDate="2011-08-31T18:39:03.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have to be concerned about regarding the alternator is the amperage usage of your components VS amperage output of the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 100A alternator and your the standard draw of your components is 40A and max of say 80A (A/C on, headlights, wipers, rear defrost, stereo, etc), then your alternator will have sufficient additional power to charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if turning on some of the heavier usage components puts your amperage draw over what your alternator puts out it will be ok for a period of time as it will draw that energy from the battery, but too long and you will be in a tough spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you haven't added aftermarket components (new stereo, amp, speakers, HID headlamps, offroad lights, power inverter powering a 50&quot; flat screen in the trunk (j/k, maybe...)) then your alternator output should cover the power draw of the car's components and the battery will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, a higher capacity battery will take a longer period of time to charge up and this again depends heavily on how much excess amperage there is (Alternator Amps - Component Usage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T18:39:03.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1815" CreationDate="2011-09-01T02:10:14.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an option for attempting to recover a completely dead battery described defined on Optima's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/resuscitating_agmbattery.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/resuscitating_agmbattery.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recovery Option #2: The DIY Solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a recovery method for the do-it-yourselfer using the equipment&#xA;  you've got in the garage. With this option, you're going to trick your&#xA;  charger into charging the deeply discharged AGM battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here's what you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Battery charger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Jumper cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A good battery, preferably above 12.2 volts (It can be an AGM or&#xA;  flooded battery, it doesn't matter.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The seemingly dead, deeply discharged AGM battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A watch or timer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, here's what you do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hook up the good battery and deeply discharged AGM battery in&#xA;  parallel—positive to positive and negative to negative. Do not have&#xA;  the charger connected to the battery or turned on at this stage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Now, hook up the good battery to the charger. Turn on the charger.&#xA;  The charger will &quot;see&quot; the voltage of the good battery, and start&#xA;  providing a charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;After the batteries have been hooked up for about an hour, check&#xA;  to see if the AGM battery is slightly warm or hot to the touch.&#xA;  Batteries naturally become warm during charging, but excessive heat&#xA;  may be an indication that there really is something wrong with the&#xA;  battery. Also discontinue the process if you hear the battery&#xA;  &quot;gassing&quot;—a hissing sound coming from the safety valves. If it's hot&#xA;  or gassing, STOP CHARGING IMMEDIATELY!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Check back every hour to see if the AGM battery has charged to&#xA;  10.5 volts or above. If it has, disconnect the charger from the wall&#xA;  outlet and remove the good battery from the charger. Now, connect only&#xA;  the deeply discharged AGM battery to the charger. Turn on the charger&#xA;  and continue until the AGM battery reaches a full charge, or until the&#xA;  automatic charger completes the charge process. In most cases, the AGM&#xA;  battery will be recovered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T02:10:14.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1786" CreationDate="2011-09-01T02:21:03.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some moving parts involved in the disengaging of the pressure plate after the slave cylinder that may have worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking possibly the throwout bearing may be going.  When you first start up the vehicle in a cold state it may be operating normally but then while driving it gets warm and gets more resistive (heat causes expansion, probably not good for a worn bearing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement of the throwout bearing, pivot ball and clutch fork are typically replaced during a clutch job (especially the throwout bearing) so this would explain a similar issue going away for @trip0d199 when their clutch was replaced.  Once you've gone through the labor of dropping the transmission out, its worth the extra few bucks to replace those wear and tear parts even if they haven't gone out yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T02:21:03.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2011-09-01T02:29:10.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check belt tension and rotation of the pulley on the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor may be exerting more drag then it is supposed to causing a further drop in RPMS then the IAC is compensating for and so causing it to stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be the pulley itself seizing which you may be able to recover with some corrosion cleaner, lubricant etc.  Otherwise it may be internal of the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is supposed to be a certain amount of oil in the refrigerant to lubricate the system, perhaps you have a leak that has caused loss of this lubricant and again the compressor is taking more effort to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T02:29:10.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1821" CreationDate="2011-09-01T08:18:09.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this on various occasions on all my Subarus once they get old, and on my Forester STi at only 70k miles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane bushes on the much harder STi suspension last less time than rubber - it seems they are so hard the impact transferred to them is higher (have to replace every 25k or so - but this one is set up for track, despite being my commute vehicle)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polyurethane bushes on the stock suspension last longer than rubber (never replaced a polyurethane one yet once they are in)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your one is set up for normal usage, I would suggest polyurethane will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any quantitative guidance on which are harder or easier to remove though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T08:18:09.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1829" CreationDate="2011-09-01T13:59:28.910" Score="5" ViewCount="7436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, So I'm driving to work. I'm stopped at the red light to go on the freeway. It turns green so I accelerate. I'm accelerating more than I would on a regular street but I didn't floor it. Anyway, all of a sudden my exhaust sounded REALLY loud.  It sounds like I have no muffler or something. I pull in to a gas station but my muffler is still there. It's loud at idle and gets louder the more I push down on the pedal.  The sound sounds like it's coming from under the driver's feet.  I looked under the car where I think the noise is coming from and I didn't really see anything. It looks like a bolt may be missing from about the same spot the noise is coming from but I don't know if it's related or just a coincidence.  I don't remember hearing anything falling off my car when it happened.  No warning lights or anything.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T20:41:47.937" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:41:47.937" Title="2001 Audi A4 just got really loud" Tags="|exhaust|noise|audi|muffler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1828" CreationDate="2011-09-01T14:10:57.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a cracked/rusted out weld somewhere.  Could be a hole that finally rusted through.  Sometimes the bolted together joints rust through.  Typically results in a cat-back exhaust replacement.  Can end up being full system replacement.  Rarely can be fixed in just one location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T14:10:57.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-09-01T19:37:17.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned vibration yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one of the spark plug wires went 'bad' on my Chevy LS1, the spark plug failing to fire immediately translated to regular vibrations that changed frequency with RPM and became especially bad at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the wires (and spark plugs) eliminated the vibrations completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T19:37:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1862" CreationDate="2011-09-01T20:06:45.533" Score="8" ViewCount="22756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unhappy with the performance of my '04 Pontiac GTO's AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling goes down to zero when the car is stationary, starts to cool after the car has been moving for some time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't cool enough during the day (~ 35-45 °C ambient temperature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cools quite well at night (even when stationary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;ice-cold&lt;/em&gt; five minutes into continuous driving at night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replenished the Freon (R134a) and noticed just a marginal improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms suggest to me that the cooling bottleneck is in the heat-rejection portion of the AC system. The radiator fans work. And it doesn't look like there's anything obstructing the AC condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T20:42:20.137" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T12:39:42.943" Title="My AC works well at night only" Tags="|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-01T21:01:35.937" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used car and it did not come with an antenna. There is a cap where one should be and a wire runs up to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;personlly I would like a short one (6&quot; or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What antenna would you recomend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user992" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T12:55:07.093" Title="What is you recommendation for a car antenna?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1804" CreationDate="2011-09-02T03:05:36.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Revving to a certain level based on computer and fuel input will not harm the engine as long as that RPM is not within the 'red zone' and is within the engine's normal operating parameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this behaviour is new, it may be a sign of a clogged O2 sensor, a clogged EGR port, a bad relay, or any one of a hundred other problems. You should see if your engine is throwing any codes via the OBD-2 port. You can usually 'borrow' the OBD-2 readout computer from an auto parts store cheaply or for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm in the US; names for parts or policies may be different where you are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T03:05:36.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1832" CreationDate="2011-09-02T12:55:07.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend the biggest one you can fit.  Generally speaking, more metal in the air makes for better receiving.  Having an antenna tuned for the frequency you're listening to is of a slight advantage, often more than offset by having a bigger antenna.  2 and a half feet would probably be about optimal for auto usage.  That's 1/4 wavelength in (roughly) the middle of the FM band.  A 6&quot; antenna is going to be less than 1/16 wavelength and not tuned at all.  Might suit your purposes if you only like strong/nearby stations, but definitely won't be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T12:55:07.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2011-09-02T14:46:47.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the car I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of people raving about how much it helped, but my experience is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my stock front strut tower brace on the MR2 to the TRD model, installed the rear TRD brace, and also did an underbody brace at the same time.  No difference detected at all.  The car had around 140,000 miles at the time, with many of those miles at autocross, rallycross, and rough dirt/gravel road rallys.  I did the upgrades as I was concerned about the car getting beat to death.  Figured I should reinforce it.  Turns out that I was worried about it for nothing.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Eclipse has a cage in it and originally had a front brace, but not a rear one.  I added a rear one primarily to give me a place to fasten equipment to on long road rallys.  It made no difference otherwise.  I removed the front brace as it was always threatening to short out the positive battery terminal.  No change noted.  The car had about 90,000 miles, with many hard autocross, rallycross, road rally, and open track days on it.  However, it has also had an 8 point cage since about 30,000 miles or so.  Definitely not as well built a car as the MR2, the braces may have helped if it didn't have the cage, maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T14:46:47.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1828" CreationDate="2011-09-02T17:24:14.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, it is likely a hole in your exhaust.  I have a 99 A4 and get an exhaust leak about once a year by the flex pipe near the front.  If a CEL didn't come on, I couldn't imagine something mechanically wrong that would cause it.  Easy way to check is to jack the car up or put it on a lift while running and see if you feel air being blown somewhere along the exhaust.  &lt;strong&gt;DON'T TOUCH THE EXHAUST&lt;/strong&gt;, it will burn you.  Just run your hand 6-12inches away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T17:24:14.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1850" CreationDate="2011-09-02T18:44:15.207" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been taking our cars to a local mechanic for years. Always been treated right, they've charged us fairly and everything was great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year, though, we've had to take one of our cars in three times for air conditioner problems. At least the last two times, and I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; all three times, the symptoms have been the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC stopped blowing, or only worked intermittently; the fan speed would sometimes be nice and high when we started the car, but before long it stopped blowing &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; altogether. The AC also made a funny noise when the fan wasn't blowing hard enough, though I suppose it's possible that the noise is always there, but drowned out when the fan is blowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the August and September problems were exactly this, and I think the April problem was the same as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In April, they told us it was the radiator fan, and charged us for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In August, they told us it was the blower resistor, and charged us for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, they're telling us it's a burned-out blower motor, and are charging us for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've never been cheated by these folks and have always recommended them highly, but this seems awfully suspicious. Is it plausible that these three separate parts could cause this same problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="998" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T19:24:27.777" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T00:34:14.047" Title="Am I getting ripped off by my mechanic?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3559" CreationDate="2011-09-02T21:30:24.660" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-NISSAN-ALTIMA-EXC-SE-R-TAIL-LIGHT-LAMP-PAIR-/280709076254?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;fits=Year%3A2006%7CMake%3ANissan%7CModel%3AAltima&amp;amp;hash=item415b90951e#ht_3243wt_995&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a lot vendors are marketing lights as SE-R.&lt;/a&gt; I know SE-R is the sports trim but what's the differences between their taillights and the other trim levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T23:55:00.590" Title="What is the difference between 2006 Nissan Altima (baseline) and SE-R taillights?" Tags="|nissan|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1854" CreationDate="2011-09-02T21:40:39.113" Score="7" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;After being hit by Hurricane Irene last week, I happened to loose power for literally one week so rather than rely completely on batteries and being a nomad, I used my Cobra 400 watt power inverter (wired directly to my car battery such that I can keep it powered even without the key on accessory) on and off to power a small emergency lamp, charge my laptop battery, power my modem, and other small items like a mini-fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part this was limited to maybe five hours tops per day and I usually would idle my engine every hour for a few minutes to make sure the battery got a boost again, and while I never had anything fail, I wanted to ask if the drain/charge cycle from the power inverter could've caused any wear on the battery, and also if it's okay to idle your engine to power an inverter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the latter question is because I heard that in the winter it's best to not let the engine idle to warm up as it allows carbon to build up, however wouldn't Seafoam or a similar cleaner in the intake fix that? I also heard that the idling affects the oxygen content in the fuel, but don't most modern cars have sensors to compensate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my final question is how long you need to idle your car for the battery to get a good charge. I heard from my father who is an Electrical Engineer that car batteries are designed for a burst of power rather than a steady stream (like in Marine batteries) so it's never ideal to have an inverter running without the engine -- but if the battery is designed to burst output, does that mean it would have a rapid/instant recharge once you crank the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much in advance for any insights,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T14:16:24.973" Title="Power Inverters as Emergency Generators?" Tags="|engine|electrical|fuel-system|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:53:59.937" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T22:53:59.937" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T22:53:59.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:53:59.937" Score="0" Body="About recommend scheduled maintenance, e.g. oil change." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T23:46:56.387" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T23:46:56.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:54:16.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;#Chevrolet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet, also known as Chevy, is an American automobile manufacturer and is a division of the American 'General Motors Corporation'. Formally it is known as the 'Chevrolet Division of General Motors Corporation'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet was established on November 3, 1911 by Louis Chevrolet and William C. Durant, and now has operations in over 140 countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Famous cars made by Chevrolet include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Series_C_Classic_Six&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Series C Classic Six&lt;/a&gt; (the first car made by Chevrolet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Caprice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caprice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Montana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Montana&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corvair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corvette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full list of cars made by Chevrolet can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Chevrolet_vehicles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevrolet.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Official Chevrolet website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3AfK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3AfK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chevrolet Logos&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T19:24:42.413" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T19:24:42.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:54:16.287" Score="0" Body="Chevrolet is a division of the General Motors Corporation." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T19:24:42.413" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T19:24:42.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:54:43.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T22:54:43.073" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T22:54:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:54:43.073" Score="0" Body="Fuel delivery system, regardless of fuel type." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T14:06:14.687" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T14:06:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1846" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:55:12.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools used to repair motor vehicles. Avoid shopping questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spanner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monkey wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car Jack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T19:24:14.973" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T19:24:14.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1847" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:55:12.010" Score="0" Body="Tools used to repair motor vehicles. Avoid shopping questions." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T23:46:52.863" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T23:46:52.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:56:09.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about determining the nature of a problem and finding possible solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T15:46:37.647" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:46:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T22:56:09.637" Score="0" Body="for questions about determining the nature of a problem and finding possible solutions." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T15:46:46.743" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:46:46.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1837" CreationDate="2011-09-03T00:34:14.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would doubt that you're * intentionally* getting ripped off, and it's possible that all the parts you mention actually did need to be replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even a competent mechanic may not have the background and experience to diagnose &amp;amp; repair the AC system, especially in modern cars where computers &amp;amp; sensors come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt (and after a couple of attempts, you should have doubts) it may be time to take it to a dealer, who will probably have the experience and equipment to properly diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T00:34:14.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-04T10:43:41.537" Score="5" ViewCount="12360" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 Honda accord with 200k miles has started acting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long vacation, I came back and the engine would seriously stutter at all speeds, especially on acceleration.  I assumed it was fuel delivery, so I put some fuel injection cleaner in a fresh tank and took a quick look at the air filter.  Everything seemed fine.  Then it stalled and refused to start in an intersection about a month ago, that was fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it towed into my mechanic who changed the oil, replaced the valve cover gasket, replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body.  The massive stuttering and stalling stopped for a bit, but now it's back again in a much more mild form and only at stoplights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine will hover at around 750 rpm, and every few seconds dip below for an instant and stutter.  It reminds me of turning down the choke too fast on a carbureted motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've switched gas stations and upped to 89.  I brought it back in a couple weeks ago to have my mechanic look it over again and he couldn't find anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to debug which part might be causing this and how I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solved:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cat was falling apart&lt;/strong&gt;. Breathing in wasn't the biggest issue. Breathing out was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the pieces of the honeycomb rattled around underneath it would prevent exhaust and suddenly start working again.  Hence erratic behavior.  &lt;strong&gt;I guess I forgot to mention the sound of rustling leaves under my car&lt;/strong&gt; (before fall even hit).  That was my destroyed cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a few faulty O2 sensors in the past couple years which likely led to my Cat's demise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1000" LastEditorUserId="1000" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T16:19:33.297" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T20:15:37.843" Title="Stuttering Accord at Stop Lights" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2011-09-05T09:18:28.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your father says, car batteries are designed for a burst of power (the high-current starter motor), not a steady stream. If you're going to use a battery a a general power supply, you need to get a &quot;deep-discharge&quot; battery, as designed for caravans/marine etc usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constantly discharging/charging a normal car battery will reduce it's life significantly, so it is best avoided where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time taken to recharge the battery depends on the size of the battery and the size of your alternator, but it will take a lot longer at idle than in normal driving - car alternators are designed to give peak output at normal cruising revs (usually around 3,000rpm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper generator will have an engine designed to run at a certain speed, and a generator matched to that speed, so that it is constantly running at peak efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T09:18:28.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2011-09-06T07:35:29.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter doesn't engage? I think your starter relais is broken. When you turn your key the starter relais will push the starter against the starter ring gear on the flywheel. When the relais is broken no contact is made and therefore you are unable to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T07:35:29.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1857" CreationDate="2011-09-06T11:52:19.420" Score="40" ViewCount="67671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a new 2011 plate car. I've heard stories of people 'burning in' engines for the first few hundred or couple thousand miles using methods such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not driving above 50 mph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varying the revs more than usual throughout the entire range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the revs below 3.5k.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that modern car engines are broke-in at the factory and the above is complete rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 'burn-in' necessary on modern cars? If so, how should I 'burn-in' a new engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1004" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:56:53.833" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T02:43:10.530" Title="Is it necessary to 'burn in' or 'break in' a new car?" Tags="|engine|break-in|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:48:12.000" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should perform a new car break-in per the manufacturer's instructions.  That way, if any warranty issues come up, you've done what they said to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking though (according to the engine builders I've talked to), you do want to vary the RPMs a lot, don't cruise at a steady speed for too long.  None of them hold to the drive slow theory, nor the low RPM only idea (some of them do the initial break-in on the dyno with a series of WOT runs through the first few gears).  More frequent oil changes are a good idea as a new engine will shed a little bit of metal at first.  Usually it's something like initial break-in dyno runs, change oil, drive for 500 miles, change oil, drive for 1000 more miles, change oil, drive for 1500 miles this time, change oil, then onto your normal schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:48:12.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:49:45.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem before a couple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had a failed starter solenoid one time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another time the ground strap had broken off of the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:49:45.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1851" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:11:20.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you're only having idling problems, and no problems while driving, that's usually an air/fuel ratio issue, and can often be traced to the idle air control valve or a vacuum leak. The IACV opens to allow more air into the engine while the throttle plate is closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to removing the IAC, take a spray bottle and mist water on your vacuum hoses and pay attention to how the engine reacts. If the engine shudders more than usual when misting water over a given hose or connection, you may well have found your problem, and can fix it for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, if you can find it, remove the IAC, check the quality of the gasket, and the condition of the IAC internally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the IAC with gasoline or throttle body cleaner and let it sit for 10+ minutes, then wipe it out with some q-tips and/or paper towels. If the gasket is not in good shape (though generally it's a good idea to replace it every time you remove the IAC, sometimes you can get away with leaving it there), replace that now. clean the electrical connections to your IAC and coat them with dieelctric grease at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's all cleaned up, and the throttle body is clean, reassemble it and see what you're getting, with any luck you'll have a more even idle, and the IAC was just full of crud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T13:11:20.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-09-07T01:48:07.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older cars did needed proper care for the first 5000 miles are so but I believe new cars do not need this at all. If they did needed it, manufacturer would have told their customers know about it. I do believer personally one should hand it with care, naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car maintained properly in one hand drives excellent. Maintain a steady driving style and your car will perform great in that particular style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T10:47:24.540" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T10:47:24.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1831" CreationDate="2011-09-07T12:39:42.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say the radiator fans work but those conditions sure sound like you aren't getting airflow when stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this based on your symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling goes down to zero when the car is stationary, starts to cool after the car has been moving for some time&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;When stationary you are relying on the fan(s) to move air through the condensor to keep the system cool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't cool enough during the day (~ 35-45 °C ambient temperature)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This part shouldn't be fan reliant so there may be some other impacting issue also such as low pressure, damaged condensor or undersized condensor for the ambient temperatures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cools quite well at night (even when stationary)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;At night with the lower temperature, even stationary, the condensor may be getting enough cooling performance just from the ambient air and so lack of operating fan wouldn't hurt it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is ice-cold five minutes into continuous driving at night.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This is the ultimate perfect conditions for it, cool air rushing into the front of the car because you are moving, no fan needed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be an electric fan that is turned on when the A/C is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the car, get it up to operating temperature and turn on the A/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check to see if that electric fan is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't, there may be a wiring issue or an issue with the fan itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is running, then you need to look at other areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you replenished the R134a, was this with a do it yourself bottle or did you take it in?  If done yourself, you may need to take it in and get the pressure checked, make sure there isn't a refrigerant leak. If you took it in, talk to the shop, find out if they pressure tested the system, if not, then the same issue may apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perform a visual inspection of the condensor, make sure there isn't a large section of bent/damaged fins.  Some is ok, it is going to happen, but the more that are damaged the lower the efficiency of the condensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the tension of the compressor's belt.  If there is a significant change in ambient temperature between day and night for you, then with heat soak the belt may be getting just loose enough where it is slipping and not turning your compressor as well as it should.  If the belt hasn't been changed in a while, consider doing it as it is relatively cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T12:39:42.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1889" CreationDate="2011-09-07T13:06:13.840" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, 4 nanos in the past 3 months have caught fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total sales have been close to 6500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what is it that causes nanos to self combust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these fires has been in the engine area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pls add the appropriate tag..  I couldnt find any&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1007" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:39:22.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:39:22.777" Title="Tata Nano -- why do they have a tendency of self combusting?" Tags="|tata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:36:51.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about the Nano in particular, but engine bay fires (that aren't due to catastrophic engine failure) are &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; the result of either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An oil leak that collects somewhere and eventually catches on fire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fuel line/injector leak.  Look for fuel lines rubbing against something and wearing through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:36:51.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:58:22.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a succession of Honda NTV's over the years and been very happy with them. They are pretty bulletproof, being shaft drive, yet still a nice commuter ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bumped into a previous owner of one of my NTV's who told me he'd taken it touring around Norway and Sweden, while my father had a Deauville for a year doing roving traffic reports for a local Radio station and he said it was more comfortable than his Harley for long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were quite popular in years past and were manufactured for many years, so there are plenty of old bikes for sale as runners, for spares or repair, or been broken up in scrap yards. It was also popular enough to encourage people to manufacture pattern parts for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earlier NTV600's are now dirt cheap, and had the prettier short exhaust pipe, but the later NTV650's were manufactured for more years. The 650's also have more in common with modern Honda Deauville (NT700V). The NTVs, IMHO, were conceived of during the nice sweet spot in bike design, between modern techniques being perfected (they are much smoother than their predecessor, the CX500) and bikes getting unnecessarily complex (is fuel injection really necessary?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real downside to the design is access to the carbs and spark plugs. The compact arrangement of the engine and chassis, which makes it such a nice shape for commuting also complicates access to some components. It's not as bad as some bikes, but might be a consideration if you intend to be stripping the cylinder heads every weekend. *8')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I managed to pick up a copy of the Honda service manual quite cheaply, which is quite useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the NTV series benefits from a nice, reliable design and you soon get used to the foibles of shaft drive. While it feels a little odd under hard acceleration at first, compared to chain or belt driven bikes, the fact that you never have to worry about lubrication or tensioning will win you over if you are doing enough miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="858" LastEditorUserId="858" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T21:34:44.623" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T21:34:44.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-07T18:31:36.187" Score="2" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;High oil pressure in my marine Perkins 4108 diesel showing 80 on the gauge, oil and filters recently changed, wiring checked and ok it runs an alternator to charge the batteries and when disconnected goes back to 35-40psi but it should run the alternator without the pressure going up ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1008" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T18:35:23.427" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T12:06:01.057" Title="High oil pressure in a marine engine" Tags="|oil|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-11T04:19:12.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-07T19:43:02.200" Score="2" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;1997 Ford Thunderbird, pulls right while driving intermittenly, always pulls left while braking. It makes a loud noise while driving, but when the front end is on jackstands, and no weight on the wheels, it stops making the sound. it is not the power steering pump making the sound, the brake pads on both sides are in tact, and less than a month old, the tires are new, alignment was done, no parts on the suspension are loose enough to make them budge /at all/ by hand. Any ideas would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1009" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T14:43:55.943" Title="1997 Ford Thunderbird, pulls right while driving intermittenly, always pulls left while braking" Tags="|ford|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1868" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:15:37.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different types of &lt;strong&gt;engines&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most engines in road vehicles are four-stroke &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gasoline&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gasoline&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gasoline&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/diesel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;diesel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;diesel&lt;/a&gt; internal-combustion piston engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some older vehicles use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/two-stroke&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;two-stroke&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;two-stroke&lt;/a&gt; engines, but these aren't used anymore because they're incapable of passing modern &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/emissions&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;emissions&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;emissions&lt;/a&gt; standards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/electric-vehicle&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;electric-vehicle&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;electric-vehicle&lt;/a&gt; uses electric motors (typically one per wheel) rather than an internal-combustion engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few heavy off-road vehicles use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gas-turbine&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gas-turbine&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gas-turbine&lt;/a&gt; engines, which are very powerful but slow to start and stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36092" LastEditorUserId="36092" LastEditDate="2021-12-08T14:45:17.650" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T14:45:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1869" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:15:37.183" Score="0" Body="Questions about vehicle engines.  Most engines in road-going vehicles are 4-stroke internal-combustion gasoline or diesel engines." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="36092" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T09:54:56.687" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T09:54:56.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1870" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:16:23.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Clutch&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a clutch is a part which allows to connect / disconnect two shafts also while they are rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple clutch consists of to discs, each firmly attached to one shaft. Press them together, and the friction between them allows to transfer torque from the one shaft to the other. Pull them apart, and the shafts aren't connected any more, and each shaft can rotate at its own RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important point is that the clutch discs can slip until both shafts have the same RPM. This makes them different from gear wheels, which can also connect/disconnect shafts, but already needs the shafts to have the right RPM ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical clutch in a car is not much more that that two disks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC5qG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC5qG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orange &lt;em&gt;clutch plate&lt;/em&gt; is connected to the shaft to the gear box, the blue is the flywheel, connected to the crank shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the yellow pressure plate is pressed (due to the diaphragm spring) to the clutch plate, and also presses this to the fly wheel. Motor and transmission are connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you press the clutch pedal, the inner part of the spring is pushed left, which causes the outer part to move to the right. This also moves the pressure plate to the left, releasing the clutch plate. The motor is not connected to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary that the left disc actually is the flywheel, but as the flywheel already has about the size needed, it is usually used as part of the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more words about the clutch in the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you disengage a gear, you put lots of wear on the teeth of the gear wheels, when there's still torque applied to them. So the clutch removes this torque, and allows to disengage the gear gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you engage the new gear, the shaft between gearbox and clutch still has not the right RPM matching the gear and the RPM of the shaft to the wheels. Therefore, each gear has some kind of &quot;mini-clutch&quot; called synchronisation ring, which brings that shaft to the right RPM (and correct position). But this clutch is only for that small shaft and is too small to bring the entire motor to the right RPM. Also, it is only used to match the RPM, not to transfer the torque while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention other types of clutches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most scooters have this kind of clutch, which looks similar to a drum brake (but e.g. without piston)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYPcs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYPcs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire reddish part is connected to the motor side and rotates counter-clock wise. When the RPM is increases, the orange parts are pulled outwards due to centrifugal force and so are pressed against the green drum, which is connected to the wheel.  The only reason for that clutch is to disconnect wheel and motor while idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnJLt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnJLt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T00:12:00.650" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:12:00.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:16:23.547" Score="0" Body="The clutch disengages the engine from the gearbox in a manual-transmission car, enabling the driver to change gear. " OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:23:12.637" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:23:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1872" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:17:01.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &quot;What does this sound mean?&quot; questions. Please describe where the noise is coming from, at least generally, and when it occurs, and what sort of sound it is (grating, squeaking, clatter, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it occur &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the time (including idling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just during acceleration, slowing down (when braking, when coasting), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During turns, or straight driving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it intermittent, or consistent or constant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T20:39:57.973" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T20:39:57.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:17:01.190" Score="0" Body="for &quot;What does this sound mean?&quot; questions. Please describe where the noise is coming from, at least generally, and when it occurs, and what sort of sound it is (grating, squeaking, clatter, etc...)." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T15:47:03.290" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T15:47:03.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-08T04:19:20.700" Score="12" ViewCount="110151" Body="&lt;p&gt;After months of normal driving with no problems, my 2003 Honda Civic EX check engine light came on during a long trip.  Got it scanned and it's P0420: Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1.  They said it could be a bad catalytic converter or oxygen sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I borrowed a scanner and tried to measure the oxygen sensor readings over time.  Doesn't seem to have good time resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CglAM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is voltage vs &quot;time&quot;, though I don't know what units &quot;time&quot; is in, or if this is useful in any way.  The code did not occur during this graph, anyway.  Apparently the sensors are supposed to switch on and off like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The lambda sensor's output voltage should not remain constant, however. It should flip-flop back and forth from rich to lean as the PCM increases and then decreases the amount of petrol injected into the intake manifold. Every time the voltage reverses itself and goes from high to low or vice versa, it's called a &quot;cross count.&quot; A good O2 sensor on an injection system should fluctuate from rich to lean about 1 per second. If the number of cross counts is lower than this, it tells you the O2 sensor is getting sluggish and needs to be replaced. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/obd2scan2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/obd2scan2.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though another site says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a fully functional catalyst is up to working temperature and is “lit”, we should see a nice “flat line” signal from the downstream sensor, which shows that the exhaust gases have been successfully converted. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/cat-efficiency.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/cat-efficiency.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a single frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;MIL STATUS       OFF&#xA;ABSLT TPS %     25.4&#xA;ENG SPEED RPM   3018&#xA;CALC LOAD %     74.9&#xA;MAP KPA           75&#xA;COOLANT °F       194&#xA;IAT °F           109&#xA;IGN ADVANCE DE  21.0&#xA;ST FTRM1 %       0.8&#xA;LT FTRM1 %       3.9&#xA;VEH SPEED MPH     20&#xA;FUEL SYS 1      CLSD&#xA;FUEL SYS 2       N/A&#xA;O2S11 V        0.875&#xA;ST FTRM11 %      3.1&#xA;O2S12 V        0.780&#xA;ST FTRM12 %     -1.0&#xA;OBD2 STAT         CA&#xA;&#xA;Frame    21&#xA;Time    74.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleared the code and it didn't come back during normal driving, but then during the long trip in the opposite direction, the engine light came on again. Both times the light came on were shortly after filling the tank and getting back on the highway.  (I measured 38 mpg during this trip, which doesn't sound like anything is seriously wrong with efficiency.)  I assume it's the same code this time but haven't read it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It passed emissions inspection 02/19/2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have oscilloscopes and volt meters if that would help figure out the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I replaced the upstream oxygen sensor and the light still comes on.  It comes on after filling the tank with gas, and goes off after filling the tank with gas.  So something about the gas being slightly different from one station to the next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Mechanic replaced the catalytic converter at the usual high cost, and the light still comes on occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swear it comes on every time I'm behind another car/truck that has a smelly exhaust, then goes out a few hours later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this code could also be caused by a cracked exhaust manifold, &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/cracked-exhaust-manifoldcatayltic-converter-901&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;which is a common problem with these cars&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T01:44:48.570" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T21:20:26.867" Title="Check Engine code P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1" Tags="|civic|cel|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|p0420|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1867" CreationDate="2011-09-08T08:19:38.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of the brake flexi hoses. These perish over time, and can often clug inside, effectively either locking the relevant brake on or preventing it from applying fully, thus casuing the car to pull to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension bushes can be worn enough to cause issues without being bad enough to move by hand - try using a small lever to move them and see if anything there looks suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thunderbirds are rear wheel drive aren't they? Have you checked the rear suspension as well? The symptom of a car pulling one way when driving and the other when braking is typical of worn suspension bushes on one or more driven wheels, allowing the wheel in question to pull forward under power and drag backward under braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T08:19:38.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1879" CreationDate="2011-09-08T10:13:32.443" Score="89" ViewCount="101706" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as there is some fuel in the tank, does the fuel level matter? In other words, is it advisable to make sure the tank is mostly full most of the time, or is this just silly? In other words, are there valid reasons why you should avoid running on an almost empty tank (other than the risk of actually running empty)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1011" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:34:54.657" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T12:20:14.650" Title="Does the amount of fuel in the tank matter?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-08T11:49:52.633" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing that gasoline does not freeze (Ok, it will start freezing at -180 degrees, but this is more than you or your car can tolerate) but that a small amount of water can accumulate in yout tank over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in cold winter weather condition, like here in Canada, if you have a low level in your tank, that accumulated water could freeze and cause some issues, like blocking your fuel pump or hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T11:49:52.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:18:42.303" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an unexpected effect to running with a full tank &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the time: fuel is heavy.  The actual weight per gallon depends on temperature (and thus on density) but it's on the order of six pounds per gallon (or about .7 kg per liter, if you like doing all your math in base 10...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the total weight depends on your vehicle's tank.  In my car, driving full all of the time would be an additional 90 pounds.  That has a measurable effect on mileage, especially in the in-town lowish speed driving that I'm often doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally fill up, run it down to about 1/4 tank, fill and repeat.  On average, I see better mileage than &quot;full all the time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Gabriel notes, however, weather can trump mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T12:18:42.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:41:27.570" Score="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both previous posts are pretty good.  I'll add a few more considerations though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a low tank, during hard cornering, some cars will uncover the fuel pump pickup and starve for fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's been some discussion for years now about keeping 1/4 tank as your minimum as the fuel provides cooling for the fuel pump.  Some people argue that additional cooling will extend the life of the pump.  My take on it is that indeed it does, but that it doesn't matter as the pump won't overheat either way (OEM fuel pump failures are exceedingly rare nowadays, nearly all fuel pump replacements that I've seen done turned out to not solve the problem they were having...).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any floating debris will stay safely above the pump intake if the tank level is kept up.  Run it down far enough and that stuff will get sucked in and contribute to either clogging the filter eventually, or even physical damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T12:41:27.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-08T15:56:00.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiance was driving our S40 to work this morning and saw a bit of smoke rolling from under the hood, she decided to let the smoke dissipate then limp the car home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the return trip the car kicked on the Oil Pressure light so she parked in the nearest lot. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I'm going to be getting into with this fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:39:25.837" Title="Volvo s40 Oil Pressure light" Tags="|volvo|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1881" CreationDate="2011-09-08T16:39:25.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that you might for sure be dealing with is an oil leak.  Possibly higher up such that it is dripping on the exhaust or the side of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:39:25.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-08T21:30:42.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also would add that, besides avoiding problems with running always with less than 1/4 (probably, a few times would be alright), you could also avoid being without gas if you are in a jam or need to go to a place which is far than you expect, like giving a ride, and you don't have time to fill the tank or there is no gas station near.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I always prefer to be safe than sorry. And I guess there are few reasons, other than monetary, not to keep it with at least 1/4 filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1021" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T21:30:42.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1890" CreationDate="2011-09-08T21:58:37.237" Score="5" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Central America. Driving is different than in 'Western' countries. Roads are often in bad shape, and it is very common to encounter people / cows / carts / painfully slow cars on the 'highways'. Consequently, one never drives fast here. My driving pattern is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0-60 km/h: 85% of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60-90 km/h: 12% of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On very rare occasions I am on a very well maintained, straight road with no other traffic where I can safely go more of less fast. &quot;Instinct&quot; tells me it would be a good idea to reach some top speeds (nothing crazy, say 120-130 km/h) so that my engine also 'feels' these speeds at times and gets some practice in those speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make ANY sense? Should I top my speed (again, nothing extreme or dangerous) whenever I can, for the benefit of the engine??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1024" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T03:50:45.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:50:45.727" Title="Reaching top speeds to maintain engine tuned" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-09T00:39:12.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always let my fuel level reach near empty. Other than the cool effect on the pump, I see no advantage of not letting it get below 1/4 tank. Water is heavier than gas, so if there is any water in the tank it will be picked up by the pump first. Same goes for any debris in the tank. The pump is also situated so that on cornering the fuel pump will not be deprived. I will admit that I have run out of gas a number of times, not for a few years now, so feel free to discount my comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1025" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T00:39:12.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T01:18:40.437" Score="3" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Friday, my girlfriend's '97 Ford Explorer v6 lost electrical while driving. We were able to get it going again with a jump start. Lost electricity (lights / gauges) while driving, but were able to drive it the rest of the way home. Battery was dead in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the battery and the alternator - both were shot (stock alternator, 3 year old battery), so I replaced both. Yesterday, she called me from work and said her car started, shuttered, and died. However, it started up after waiting a few minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, she called and said it was completely dead. No lights/windows/power locks, and no cranking. Wouldn't even start with a jump, though I'm not sure if she jumped it correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to my question: Is there something else that could be draining a brand new battery? I found something on another Q&amp;amp;A site saying something about the connectors on the alternator, but I know I tightened down all the connections, and they had good contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T23:20:51.593" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T23:20:51.593" Title="97 Ford Explorer battery going dead" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|alternator|un105|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2011-09-09T07:40:16.607" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are planning to let your car sit for a while, it also may be adavisable to have a full tank. Less air in the tank means less corrosion of the tank, if you have a metal one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1030" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T07:40:16.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1884" CreationDate="2011-09-09T08:43:50.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally car engines are designed so that driving in the middle of the rev range will get  fuel is burning well, the temperature at the right point - not too hot or cold, and oil circulating well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving at very low speeds all the time (but much lower than you describe) could lead to a build up of deposits which just aren't being burned, but I can't think of any direct benefits of trying to reach that top speed - especially when, as you say, there are bad roads and traffic which includes cows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of much more importance is ensuring it is maintained well - ensure the correct oil level, tuning, clean spark plugs etc etc. This will have a much bigger effect on the engine's longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T08:43:50.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1863" CreationDate="2011-09-09T10:24:49.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per discussions on a popular Indian motoring forum, Tata Motors had identified the root cause as the starter motor. A defect in the starter motor caused it to continue running even after the engine fired up, because of which it would burn out, and the materials surrounding its housing would ignite. This has been fixed now, and the subsequent batches of nano's do not have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T10:24:49.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1884" CreationDate="2011-09-09T12:28:06.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; No, I don't think that a higher linear speed is terribly critical in your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some points that I would suggest you keep your eyes on instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine temperature: are the engine oil and coolant getting up to operating temperature?  Yes, I know that Central America tends to be warm - it's worth asking the question for consumption by future readers.  You say that you are focused on fairly low speeds (60 kph ~= 37 mph).  If you lived up here and were only driving very short trips, I would be a little concerned.  However, down south, it may be less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lugging the engine: are you giving the engine some time to explore it's whole rev range?  Driving at slow speeds in a high gear under load (e.g., up a grade) isn't the best for your engine (for reference, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1884/reaching-top-speeds-to-maintain-engine-tuned/1888#1888&quot;&gt;Rory's comments&lt;/a&gt; about deposits).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transmission wear: at relatively low speeds, your transmission is likely getting plenty of exercise.  You should definitely keep a close eye on the transmission fluid and / or gear oil, especially if you have multiple differentials.  Those may require more frequent changes for optimum lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T12:28:06.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T12:40:27.823" Score="5" ViewCount="2797" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What things can I do to increase the life of my diesel engine when I make lots of short trips in the car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daily routine means that the trip to work goes via another destination which gives my engine time to warm up properly, but the trip home from the office is so short the engine never warms up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd drop the car off at home after the morning trip and walk to work, however due to my job I often use the car during office hours and at short notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Since I'm unable to change my routine as the morning trip is essential, as is having the car available at work, is there anything I can do to lower the impact of the short journeys on my car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard &quot;magnatech&quot; oils can help, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1034" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T10:01:15.237" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T17:00:12.280" Title="How can I increase the life of my diesel engine when my car does lots of small trips?" Tags="|oil|diesel|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2011-09-09T12:41:29.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is to check for short circuits. With the battery fully charged and nothing switched on, pop an ammeter on the battery and measure the power draw - there will be some to power the alarm &amp;amp; radio preset, but that should be pretty tiny. If there is a large draw, you've got a short and the tedious job of tracking it down begins...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T12:41:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:23:04.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the trip is so short that the engine isn't even warming up, you're not doing the car any favours, Diesel engine or Petrol engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I'd look into alternative modes of transport like a bicycle instead and just use the car when you absolutely have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T14:23:04.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1895" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:45:11.503" Score="11" ViewCount="15800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read these posts but I still don't fully undestand how a clutch works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1166/how-to-test-a-clutch&quot;&gt;Clutch Test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1374/adjust-clutch-on-toyota-tazz&quot;&gt;Clutch Adjust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/219/troubleshooting-random-clutch-problems&quot;&gt;Clutch Troubleshoot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1752/clutch-catches-very-low-is-this-bad&quot;&gt;Clutch Has Low Catch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks a go my mechanic replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder on my Toyota Tacoma 4x4. It drove fine for a week or so. &lt;p&gt;This morning after not driving it for 4 days, I cranked it, fully depressed the clutch pedal and could not get car in 1st gear. I let off brake, allowing truck to move slightly and then I could get in 1st gear. The gear fully engaged within first 3-4% of releasing the clutch, i.e. the clutch engaged immediately.  &lt;p&gt;I drove to my first stop sign, depressed the clutch and applied brakes and came to a complete stop. After that I could not get vehicle in gear.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Somehow, I got vehicle in reverse to back in driveway. I depressed clutch, this time it behaved as if it were still in gear and would not stop. I applied brakes hard turned off ignition. With ignition off and foot off clutch pedal, stick shift moves between first and second gear with no resistance.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I want to have a full understanding of what happening so I can have an informed and intelligent discussion with my mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a likely diagnosis of my symptoms? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T15:18:44.217" Title="Why does my vehicle still stay in gear when I press clutch to floor?" Tags="|toyota|clutch|manual-transmission|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:01:01.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the pedal feel? Does it have the same resistance as normal, or does it feel really soft, and go straight to the floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it it the latter, chances are you have air in the system, or a leak - check the fluid level in the reservoir (which should look similar to the brake one, but usually smaller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it feels normal, there could still be a small air bubble in the system - This is typically indicated by a small amount of free movement as the air is compressed, followed by a normal feel as fluid is pushed through, meaning that the mechanism works, but does not move far enough to release the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is normal through the entire travel, then I would suspect the mechanical release mechanism, i.e. the linkage between the slave cylinder and the clutch itself. I don't know the design of the Tacoma, but some cars feature a cross-shaft with a release arm attached with a grub screw or woodruff key, and these can break, allowing the shaft to rotate without releasing the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:01:01.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2011-09-09T16:27:39.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would spend the extra couple of minutes allowing your car to warm up before starting your drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with letting it warm up, follow the maintenance schedule given in your owners manual for the extreme conditions (the one with shorter intervals for oil changes and other maintenance items).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate Transportation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you can walk within a reasonable amount of time between your home and work, it still seems an alternate mode of transport is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you'd consider doing your morning destination then back home and then walk to work if it weren't for needing to use the vehicle on short notice during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would riding a bicycle cut down the commute enough to when you do have those short notice needs you could ride home real quick and get your car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say it takes you 15 minutes to walk to work, you ought to easily be able to do that in about 5 minutes on a bicycle.  So you would only be delayed 5 minutes getting to your vehicle if you needed to go somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not wanting to deal with the bulk of a bicycle, depending on your area, roller skates or inline skates may be an alternative.  Although these take some getting used to for safely using in an urban environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T16:27:39.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T16:33:47.427" Score="5" ViewCount="4675" Body="&lt;p&gt;So hello. I have had a lot of luck with my other vehicles on forums and a recently became the (hopefully-soon-to-be)-proud owner of a 1997 Nissan D21/Hardbody/Pickup XE. It has 156k miles on it and is completely stock. 2.4l 5spd 4WD. It runs like a dream, gets great gas mileage, little rust on frame, none on body and bed. All in all, a great truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted this specific model truck after reading extensive reviews on their reliability (some say &quot;to a fault&quot;!) and longevity and the fact it is such a badass utilitarian vehicle. I went to go see about 12 before I found the one I currently own. Now, because NH is notorious for it's salt in the winter and D21s are notorious for their frame rust, I had to go to Maine to get it. Maine, where I find out they will slap a sticker on a watermelon. Once I get to NH, I realized, for the first time, just how nasty computerized emissions tests can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I have replaced 2 air sensors, a catalytic converter, a speed sensor, fixed an EVAP system leak. Now I am at the one I am stuck on. Where the first list of repairs took about 2 weeks, this one has taken about two months and is still not fixed no matter what we do. Now I am stuck at my mechanic's (unless I pay $450 to have it towed to the closest Nissan dealer) unless I am trying to do the drive cycle and even that is technically illegal. If I do drive, cops around here have a boner for people flying the &quot;illegal vehicle&quot; flag and I will most certainly be arrested and the truck impounded (I already have a ticket AND I was pulled over 6 times while under a 60 day emissions sticker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code is P0705: Transmission Range Sensory Malfunction (PRNDL Input)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the neutral switch (which the dealer said is the range sensor) but lo and behold, the &quot;service engine soon&quot; light came on again after about 21 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weird things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Before the neutral switch was installed, I had to drive over 53 mph for more than a mile AFTER at least 17 miles since cleared codes before the check engine light flipped on. Otherwise, I could drive the car all day under 53 and it would never trip the light, but it would also never &quot;be ready&quot; according to the state's inspection computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Before the NS, the car sucked at higher speeds. We're talking accelerating from 60 mph to 70 mph took over a minute with pedal to the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-On the latest drive cycle test after I had the neutral switch installed, the car was running better than it ever had while I owned it. Better acceleration and lower RPMs at high speeds. The accelerator pedal was much more responsive, especially in 5th gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-After the neutral switch was installed, I could drive for as long as I wanted without tripping the check engine light (would still register not ready) until I stopped the engine, restarted it, then drove above 53 mph for more than a mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Checked blown fuses, but all are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, the tranny does not buck or anything. As I said, the truck runs like a dream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like my mechanic's are getting annoyed with the truck and their motivation has ceased. As much as I am going to change my mechanic as a result, I am committed to these one's to fix the truck unless I want to risk getting arrested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially things I can do/check in the parking lot of my mechanic's shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any assistance. I know I am new but please help! It's getting too cold to ride the motorcycle to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:41:28.787" Title="Passing Emissions Test: Can't figure out how to fix code P0705 on a 1997 Nissan D21 / Hardbody / Pickup" Tags="|transmission|nissan|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1898" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:02:46.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Transmission&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBMwX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBMwX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:43:15.520" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:43:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1899" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:02:46.193" Score="0" Body="These are questions regarding transmissions in general (either manual, automatic or CVT transaxles and their component parts).  This tag is not for questions specific to any type of transmission.  Instead, use [manual-transmission], [automatic-transmission], or [cvt-transmission] INSTEAD.  Use this tag if the question is relevant to multiple types of transmissions." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T02:41:05.943" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T02:41:05.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:03:16.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ford Motor Company&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford motor company was founded in the United States on June 16, 1903.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has since created hundreds of different models of motor vehicle and is currently sold in most of the global market place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6xoS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6xoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:35:29.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:35:29.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1901" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:03:16.100" Score="0" Body="US-based multinational carmaker with subsidiaries in Europe and Australia" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:16:36.250" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:16:36.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1902" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:04:45.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;A diesel engine (also known as a compression-ignition engine) is an internal combustion engine that uses the heat of compression to initiate ignition to burn the fuel, which is injected into the combustion chamber. This is in contrast to spark-ignition engines such as a petrol engine (gasoline engine) or gas engine (using a gaseous fuel as opposed to gasoline), which uses a spark plug to ignite an air-fuel mixture.&quot; -Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T17:20:50.807" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T17:20:50.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:04:45.863" Score="0" Body="A type of internal combustion engine where ignition happens when fuel is spray at high pressure into a compressed charge of air, or the relatively heavy fuel oil used in compression-ignition engines. " OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:32:11.913" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:32:11.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1904" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:05:17.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Pontiac automobile brand was established in 1926 as a companion make for GM's more expensive line of Oakland automobiles....The last Pontiac badged cars were built in December 2009. Franchise agreements for Pontiac dealers expired October 31, 2010. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;{wiki/pontiac&lt;/a&gt; retrieved 22-Jul-15.}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GM still maintains a website for the Pontiac brand at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pontiac.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pontiac.com/&lt;/a&gt; for recall notices as well as redirection to websites for GM's other brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="11435" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:16:00.143" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:16:00.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1905" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:05:17.017" Score="0" Body="Pontiac was a brand of automobile manufactured and sold by General Motors (GM); though production ended in 2009, Pontiac remains a registered and active trademark of GM." OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="11435" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:15:18.767" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:15:18.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:05:04.283" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am been trying to figure this out for the past hour.  I was driving back home from a conference about a month ago and had a power inverter plugged into the outlet inside the center console when all of a sudden it all stopped working.  For the past month I haven't had any power on any outlets and finally today got a chance to change the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried replacing all of the following fuses with none of them working: 11, 12, 13 and 19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there one that I am missing that needs to be changed? I get absolutely no power on any outlets when the car is running or off.  Everything else in the car is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T01:38:45.493" Title="No power to any power outlets in 2007 PT Crusier" Tags="|chrysler|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1910" CreationDate="2011-09-09T23:07:29.887" Score="6" ViewCount="1957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/913/442&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; is very similar, but I am specifically talking about the fuel gauge and not an indicator light. Almost every car I've owned could run for quite a while with the fuel gauge reading an empty tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some standard (either enforced or just customary) in the US for calibrating fuel gauges as to how much wiggle room you have after it technically says you are out of gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know my own car's limits fairly well (at least as far as I have tested them), but I'm curious in the context of an unfamiliar car, for example a rental. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T17:21:31.410" Title="Is there a standard for how much fuel is left in the tank when the meter reads empty?" Tags="|fuel-system|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1909" CreationDate="2011-09-10T12:05:41.623" Score="8" ViewCount="6441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Toyota Camry 2000. The problem is AC does not blow any cold air. So, I bought &lt;code&gt;R134a&lt;/code&gt; and recharging it myself. It costs me about $12. However, it lasts for about a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked with couple garages near by. Cost for checking AC is vary from $60 to $150. They told me it covers only investigating NOT fixing cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question come up to my mind is: Can I keep charging R134a without getting it to repair? Will it have serious damage to my car? Is it good thing or bad thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="986" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T01:36:20.990" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T22:33:02.433" Title="AC: Fixing or Recharging?" Tags="|toyota|ac|r134a|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1908" CreationDate="2011-09-10T16:56:32.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that when you mentioned that the recharge only lasted for a month, that was until the a/c stopped working again? Usually a/c stops working when there is not enough pressure in the system due to it being low on refrigerant and given how long a non-leaking system normally lasts without a recharge, you've got a fairly substantial leak in a/c terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably get away with a couple more recharges but keep in mind that the refrigerant also includes the lubricating oil for the system and if you keep topping up the refrigerant, the ratio might be off, which can do further damage to the a/c system and your wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consult the local yellow pages for an automotive a/c guy - a lot of garages (especially the smaller ones) don't have the gear and licenses to deal with a/c anyway so they often farm it out to a mobile guy. Getting said mobile person to come out and check out your car's a/c will at least save you the overhead the garage charges on top of what the a/c person charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the reason that they're only quoting you for the diagnostics is that in order to find a leak, some refrigerant will have to be replaced by a UV dye, then you get to run your car for a few days with the a/c on before the actual leak check can be done. Only at this point it's even possible to figure out what needs replacing as it can be anything from the compressor to a line to the evaporator or receiver/dryer. And without knowing where it leaks you can't diagnose the problem in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T16:56:32.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1907" CreationDate="2011-09-11T04:21:11.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no standard. It depends on the fuel gauge sensor, the feed location in the fuel tank, the length and size of the fuel line, and the size of other items in the fuel line such as inline fuel filter and carburetor/injector setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="996" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T17:21:31.410" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T17:21:31.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-11T05:26:09.267" Score="3" ViewCount="3380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Reset the computer in my 1998 Chevy Astro, but even after driving around for a few days and putting it through the GM drive cycle, the OBDII reader is saying that the CAT monitor is not ready. I suspect there is a sensor somewhere that is sending incorrect information to the computer. Is there any way to diagnose this? Or at least a list of the precise conditions that need to be present in order for the CAT test to be completed?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="936" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:51:01.197" Title="Catalytic converter readiness monitor never sets" Tags="|obd-ii|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29664" CreationDate="2011-09-12T00:50:54.520" Score="2" ViewCount="6174" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1137/why-might-srs-indicator-light-continuously&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, my SRS light keeps coming on.  I read the code using a paperclip in the OBDII connector, which is always code 7-2 &quot;Internal failure of SRS unit&quot;, and then reset it using the SRS connector.  It stays off for weeks or months and then comes back on.  Any idea how to troubleshoot this?  Or do I have to take it to a mechanic?  Obviously messing around with airbags is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda Civic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T12:15:03.053" Title="SRS indicator light keeps coming on, code 7-2 &quot;Internal failure of SRS unit&quot;" Tags="|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2011-09-12T01:34:06.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, unless you know anyone that can help you with the troubleshooting, I would take it in. Depending on your vehicle [Not mentioned], it could be any of a ton of sensors [depending on age] in the vehicle. Seat Occupancy can do it, Door pressure sensors can do it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T01:34:06.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1906" CreationDate="2011-09-12T01:38:45.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely sounds like a fuse, but you must locate the one that powers accessories. Not sure what the ones you mentioned are, but if it is not for accessories, it is not it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T01:38:45.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1911" CreationDate="2011-09-12T12:41:32.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May require (on some vehicles, I'm not familiar with GM specifically) 15 minutes of steady cruise on the expressway to get all monitors to readiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T12:41:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-12T16:11:21.647" Score="2" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am driving a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The noise started happening after I had a bump to the curb on a snowy day early this year. The right wheel bumped to the curb during a left turn. The damage made to the wheel bad enough that I had to replace it. Since then, I had the whole 4 tires replaced, did a couple of times tire rotation but the noise never went away. The alignment was done once during the tire replacement but not sure if it was done thoroughly. I asked one car shop to a road test to figure out what was causing it but the mechanic wasn't able to find anything. I was also told that it couldn't be a balance issue since the vehicle would go vibrate if it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are appreciated. It's bothering me quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:40:53.547" Title="Weird Noise from Front Right Wheel when driving between 90kmph and 105kmph" Tags="|noise|dodge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1920" CreationDate="2011-09-12T17:26:57.107" Score="2" ViewCount="17014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Citi Golf, and the Welch plugs on the engine block suddenly started leaking water. The engine sounds fine, but it obviously leaked a lot of water and although I didn't drive far, I'm not sure how long ago this happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic seems to think they just need to be replaced, but what would cause this to suddenly happen? I'm imagining the the block heating up so much it warped. Are there any less possibilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T17:12:26.243" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T15:39:57.297" Title="Why would welch plugs start leaking?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2011-09-12T17:32:05.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most weird noises from the wheel area turn out to be wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also check to make sure that the disc brake dust shield didn't get bent, as it can make a similar sound when rubbing against the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T17:32:05.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3637" CreationDate="2011-09-12T19:09:07.947" Score="1" ViewCount="6691" Body="&lt;p&gt;For awhile now since getting my first car (and only driving Automatic transmissions) I've had plenty of experiences where when making a turn out of a parking lot with my wheels turned a bit too much, or even when I'm switching lanes on the highway (jumping 55 to 65 due to trucks ahead) it seems that if I floor my car or push the gas too much, I end up with a dangerous acceleration block where my engine revs and stays around 4k RPM, and the only way out has been to release the gas and floor again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the second round it usually accelerates normally, and typically this issue never comes up when I'm not immediately doing a full floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I wanted to know what causes this issue and if it's specific to automatic transmissions or any car type, or if this is an issue across the board. In addition, any tips on prevention and getting out of the gear lock are greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that misfiring can cause stalled acceleration, however every time my engine has misfired I promptly replaced the spark plugs and the check engine light always came on, and I have a code reader so I occasionally check even if the light isn't on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I know that turning the wheels a bit too much might cause a bit more tension on acceleration, but shouldn't cars be able to make tight turns (such as when on a blind curve) rapidly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T14:20:36.950" Title="Automatic trasmission gear lock when accelerating" Tags="|tires|automatic-transmission|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2011-09-12T19:45:54.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia says they can corrode and fail from improper engine maintenance. However, I'm unable to come up with a really good explanation for why. I suppose not servicing the cooling system ever could lead to an issue, but you'd almost certainly see it elsewhere first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T19:45:54.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1922" CreationDate="2011-09-13T03:21:19.173" Score="9" ViewCount="228035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have oil in my coolant reservoir.  Could it just be the head gasket or is it almost certainly the entire engine or might it be something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:40:15.187" Title="Oil in coolant - how much trouble am I in?" Tags="|engine|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1921" CreationDate="2011-09-13T08:21:55.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely source is the head gasket. There are very few other ways (short of catastrophic engine failure - and that would give other symptoms!) of the two mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for excessive smoke (oil getting into the bores), coolant loss (coolant getting into the bores) and a mayonnaise effect in the oil (coolant getting into the oil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say what car you have, but for quite a lot of vehicles, particularly older ones, that is a do-able job for a reasonably competant diy mechanic. You'll generally need a decent manual, a gasket set &amp;amp; new head bolts, a Torque wrench and a selection of sockets, and make sure to follow the loosening/tightening sequence given in the manual. It is best to get the head checked and/or skimmed by an engineering shop, but you can usually get away without if it isn't too bad a blow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T08:21:55.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2692" CreationDate="2011-09-13T08:29:18.607" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone has had experience fitting child restraint anchors to a Hyundai Lantra 1998 (or similar)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've located the holes for where the anchors should go (according to the manual) but there is physically no way to get in behind the holes to place the backplate for the anchors and the nut. Is there something I'm missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T21:30:03.493" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:49:19.397" Title="Hyundai Elantra 1998 Child Restraint Anchors" Tags="|safety|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1931" CreationDate="2011-09-13T11:20:01.393" Score="2" ViewCount="28493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I changed the oil in my vehicle's rear differential.  The manual recommended the use of a &quot;Hypoid&quot; oil, but the guy at the auto parts store suggested a &quot;Limslip&quot; oil instead.  I went along with his recommendation since he probably knows more about vehicle maintenance than I do and because the viscosity rating of the &quot;Limslip&quot; oil matched what the manual called for anyways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since changing the oil I haven't noticed any issues with my vehicle, and I made sure to take it out for some aggressive driving immediately following the procedure to verify that all was well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still I wonder, what is the actual difference between the &quot;Hypoid&quot; oil and the &quot;Limslip&quot; oil?  Did I commit some terrible error by using one instead of the other?  Is my differential going to explode one day because of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Just for my own future reference; the correct torque for the fill-plug and drain-plug is 30 Newton-meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="788" LastEditorUserId="788" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T06:57:10.493" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T14:50:55.023" Title="Difference between &quot;Hypoid&quot; and &quot;Limslip&quot; oils" Tags="|oil|rear-differential|lubrication|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1924" CreationDate="2011-09-13T15:42:48.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, Limslip oil is designed for vehicles with limited slip differentials, and thus has extra additives over a normal hypoid gear oil. Hypoid oils have additives to help them cope under extreme pressure, but as limited slip diffs still have hypoid gears in, I would assume limslip oil also has the same additives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect, therefore, that using limslip in a conventional diff won't hurt it, except that the limslip was probably a fair bit more expensive than hypoid...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T15:42:48.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1926" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:35:51.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrical&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having to do with electric signal and power transfer via electrical energy through circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car Wiring Harness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjs9p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjs9p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:31:45.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:31:45.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1927" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:35:51.653" Score="0" Body="Concerning the main electrical system of a motor vehicle or internal combustion engine. Consider using the [electronics] tag for radios and other such systems. Use the [electric-vehicle] tag for questions about electrical powered vehicles and their unique systems." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T13:15:34.963" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T13:15:34.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1921" CreationDate="2011-09-13T18:35:37.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on @Nick C's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head gasket almost certainly needs to be replaced and, on some cars, replacing the head gasket is straightforward work with the right tools and procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, on some seemingly mainstream cars, this is not the case.  In order of ease of access to the head gasket, I would rate the common designs as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inline&lt;/strong&gt;: relatively easy.  A transverse inline-4 is very common in today's cars and all parts can be accessed easily.  Longitudinal engine layouts are less common (e.g., BMW inline-6) and you're going to need to reach in to get those back bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V&lt;/strong&gt;: more work.  A V-6 or V-8 is going to be more work, if for no other reason than you have two head gaskets to be concerned about.  It's your call whether to try to diagnose each or just replace both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat&lt;/strong&gt;: cast iron b*tch.  I love my Subaru but replacing the head gaskets is not an evolution that you embark on casually.  You can see them from the bottom of the car but there's no convenient way to get at them without pulling the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T18:35:37.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1930" CreationDate="2011-09-13T21:55:51.130" Score="1" ViewCount="26855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra.  The other day I was driving on the interstate and noticed a loud-ish vibration/noise coming from the front of the car.  When I got home I found that the plastic piece that runs under the front bumper and radiator was partially disconnected from the car's body and was broken and cracked.  My questions are 1) what is this part called and 2)is it an easy part to repair/replace for a do-it-yourselfer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1048" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:22:31.247" Title="What is the plastic part under the front bumper of a 2007 Sentra?" Tags="|nissan|body|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1929" CreationDate="2011-09-14T02:26:54.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your dust/splash shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are 15 other names for it also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a plastic piece that covers up the bottom opening of the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically they are just attached by 5-10 screws or fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose is to keep dirt and liquids coming up into the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although not crucial, your car will continue to operate without it, you will have more dirt accumulate in the engine bay which can cause issues over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.courtesyparts.com&lt;/a&gt; is a great place to find Nissan OEM replacement parts.  They are typically less expensive then other dealerships because they do so much parts volume they give very good prices.  The shipping will sometimes negate the savings depending on the price at your local dealer though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble locating the shield on the diagrams for the 2007 Sentra, sometimes the parts are in a strange spot or not visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd suggest you call Courtesy or your local dealer's parts department and they will be able to give you the price of the correct part based on your VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to go to a local junk yard and grab one off of a wrecked Sentra. It will be cheaper than a new one and pretty easy to clean up before putting on your vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picknpull.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.picknpull.com&lt;/a&gt; is a good one if they are in your area as they have a search tool online to see if there are any appropriate year vehicles on the yard and when they arrived (the more recent the better chance it has your part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T02:26:54.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1924" CreationDate="2011-09-14T02:41:31.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use what your manual specifically says, not the guy at the auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nick C's answer in most situations will probably be correct, that it is just more expensive with more stuff in it that won't apply to your diff and not hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, depending on your specific differential, those additional items could cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a point in case, the transmission on my Nissan 300ZX calls for GL-4 gear oil. If you go to an auto parts store and look for GL-4, you most likely won't find any. What you will find is a lot of of GL-5 gear oils that say on the &quot;meets and exceeds GL-4 standards&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works fine for most cases, but what I found out after running a GL-5 &quot;GL-4 compatible&quot; gear oil for a few months is that the brass components in my transmission will slowly be damaged by GL-5 gear oil as the standard specifies different levels of acidity, mineral compounds, etc and some of those limits will allow for damage to the softer metal components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I removed the GL-5 and put in a proper true GL-4 from Redline Oil (they even mention in the product description that this oil is popular on older Nissan, Toyota, etc transmissions) there was a lot of metal sparkles in the old oil.  Luckily I pulled it in time to where it seems to have not caused major damage, but had I left it in there for a standard change cycle, it could have killed my synchros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely not the case on your differential but I'd suggest talking to some enthusiasts of your specific vehicle to find out for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T02:41:31.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2011-09-15T02:36:45.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting the car in neutral when you can hear the noise. If it goes away, it might be the transmission or some part of the drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push and pull on the top of the front right tire pretty hard and see if you can feel any looseness. If so, it's probably the wheel bearing / hub. But sometimes the wheel bearings go out and still feel tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T02:36:45.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1935" CreationDate="2011-09-15T05:31:44.713" Score="14" ViewCount="106419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a classic Ford 8N tractor running again. Someone trying to be helpful flipped the battery around, connecting negative to ground. This made the engine crank backwards! So I had spark, compression, and fuel but it wouldn't start. This got me thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Positive ground was very common, especially on 6V system on work machines. Today almost all vehicles are negative ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a matter of convention, or are there reasons to choose one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T23:33:49.227" Title="What are the tradeoffs for positive vs. negative ground?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1934" CreationDate="2011-09-15T08:15:41.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is partly a matter of convention and standards, and partly because positive earth encourages galvanic corrosion* of the surrounding bodywork - whearas with negative earth is is the much-easier-to-replace electrical contacts that corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Think back to school physics lessons with anodes and cathodes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T08:15:41.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1934" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:43:23.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hooray for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tip_and_ring#Negative_48_volts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Originally, the voltages on the wires were positive with respect to&#xA;  earth. This is called negative ground, since the negative side of the&#xA;  battery is grounded to earth. Then engineers discovered that with&#xA;  positive voltage on the copper wires, copper wires age quickly, due to&#xA;  electrolysis. With negative voltage on the wires, in respect to earth,&#xA;  (called positive ground) the copper is protected from corrosion. This&#xA;  is referred to as cathodic protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, there is a trade-off.  You're going to have electrically-motivated corrosion on one set of components or another.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1934/what-are-the-tradeoffs-for-positive-vs-negative-ground/1935#1935&quot;&gt;As Nick points out&lt;/a&gt;, corrosion of electrical components (e.g., wires and connections) is much easier to replace on a vehicle than the bodywork or frame itself.  Combine this with the fact that, frankly, we're better at protecting wires than we used to be and it makes a lot of sense to run a negative ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:43:23.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1934" CreationDate="2011-09-15T21:49:03.407" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a safety factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the positive terminal of your battery connected to the frame of the car, then it is very easy to make new circuits, through your body for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot more negative ground sources out in the open then positive ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T21:49:03.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1947" CreationDate="2011-09-16T01:56:18.953" Score="4" ViewCount="4180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I, like an idiot, was using a socket wrench to remove the bolt from my idler pulley. I unscrewed the bolt too far, wedging the wrench between wheel well and the bolt. I could not even flip the switch to reverse the socket wrench. How can I remove the socket wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:23:36.630" Title="How Do I Remove My Socket Wrench Between the Idler Pulley and Wheel Well" Tags="|pulley|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-16T02:10:05.650" Score="2" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pulley that I removed from my car. I probably should have done some more research before I actually removed the pulley. How can I tell if that pulley is in fact bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T18:42:49.870" Title="How To Tell if a Pulley Not Attached to the Engine Is Bad" Tags="|dodge|pulley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-16T02:15:08.377" Score="10" ViewCount="179724" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to get my motorcycle running again after I've left it in my garage for over a year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:03:55.190" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:03:55.190" Title="Start Motorcycle Garaged for Over a Year" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|fuel-line|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2011-09-16T02:57:59.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there were contaminants in the gas, it could gum up the carb, so it might be worthwhile to drain the gas and refill with new gas. At a minimum, drain a little gas from the lowest point you can find in the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery and make sure it is charged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the fluids, brakes, lights, tire pressure, and oil level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T02:57:59.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1940" CreationDate="2011-09-16T07:38:55.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For completeness, if you haven't tried it yet, see if you can rotate the socket/bolt at all by hand to tighten it back in some.  Now that you've broken the bolt open it may move by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, the socket wall should be able to hold up to some moderate clamping force so I would try a set of vice grips or other locking pliers if you have those available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then a regular set of pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the length of the socket (if a deep socket was used), possibly a strap wrench (like an oil filter wrench) could fit onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a good grip on the socket, you should be able to rotate the bolt back in some to free the socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you need a shorter socket or finish backing the bolt out with a crescent, box or combination wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T07:38:55.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1951" CreationDate="2011-09-16T09:55:23.447" Score="2" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic has said that I need to clean the filter at the bottom of the block inside the oil pan as this is causing the oil light to come on (I can't afford to pay the mechanic to do that currently) and if not resolved will cause engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions is how do I remove the oil pan and clean the filter myself or where is a video/instructions on how to achieve this at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also looking at purchasing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TIS&lt;/a&gt; subscription, would the manual there work for my engine? (ie: Global Engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastEditorUserId="1055" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T05:33:48.827" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T11:43:15.710" Title="How to do a 2005 v6 Avalon Oil Pan Removal (Australian Model)" Tags="|toyota|avalon|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2011-09-16T10:09:58.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on xpda's answer, and genericise it for any engine that has been standing for some time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain and replace the fuel - modern unleaded goes off after a couple of months so won't be any good if it has been standing for longer than that. Replace/clean the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain and refill the oil. If it has been standing for a long time it would be worth doing this again after a few miles. Replace the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the coolant. If it had been left with little or no antifreeze, drain, flush and replace as there will be corrosion in the system - if it had plenty of antifreeze in that should have prevented this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the battery and charge it fully. If it has been sitting for a long time the battery will have degraded so you may well find that it won't hold much of a charge and may need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check all the perishable components - hoses, tyres etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the brakes - Disks will have at least a coating of surface rust, but make sure the hydraulics work properly and tyhat none of the cylinders have siezed and that the seals are in good condition (check carefully for fluid leaks around all the flexi hoses and cylinder seals - if in doubt, replace)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As Mauro suggests, remove the plugs and turn the engine over manually. If it has been standing a long time, dribble a little oil down the bores a few days beforehand to lubricate the piston rings. If it is reluctant to turn, don't force it, as there is a risk the rings have corroded into the bores and could break - if that happens it's rebuild time!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace the plugs, disconnect the king lead and turn the engine on the starter to allow oil pressure to build up and fuel to be drawn through the system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Refit the king lead and try to start it...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T10:09:58.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1940" CreationDate="2011-09-16T12:47:23.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried numerous things. This is how I finally got myself out of the predicament: I jacked up the engine and then hammered out the socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I tried or thought of trying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;applying vise grips to the socket, didn't work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jamming something thin, yet strong in between the wheel well trying to switch the ratchet in reverse, didn't work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off the socket with a reciprocal saw, didn't work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut off the bolt with a reciprocal saw, didn't try&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fracture the ratchet head with a hammer and wedge, didn't work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an idiot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up knocking it out with a hammer. No damage was done to my car, thankfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastEditorUserId="1039" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T12:59:59.903" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T12:59:59.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1949" CreationDate="2011-09-16T15:01:05.643" Score="3" ViewCount="9993" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; My turn signal has stopped cancelling reliably - can I repair it or should I get it replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full Query/Context:&lt;/strong&gt; A properly functioning turn signal system, I believe, will typically cancel the signal when the steering wheel is turned a certain distance in the direction of the signal, then turned back a certain distance (this is at least the way all turn signals have worked for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Chevy Equinox has recently stopped doing this reliably for the right turn signal. I was hoping someone could offer some insight on how the cancel function works, how it could be repaired or replaced by a reasonably competent Computer Engineer (mechanically minded, but not mechanically experienced), or whether this is too complicated/small of a device (or its integrated into something complex) to do on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1056" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T21:07:49.767" Title="Is it possible (or practical) to repair a turn signal cancel switch instead of replacing it?" Tags="|chevrolet|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1948" CreationDate="2011-09-16T16:18:46.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the breakage is some small plastic part that you're not going to be able to reasonably repair.  Typically a whole replacement unit can be had pretty cheap from a junkyard anyways.  Normally not worth a repair effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T16:18:46.897" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1941" CreationDate="2011-09-16T18:42:49.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of specific information, here are some general inspections that you can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it turn at all?  Most automotive pulleys should spin fairly freely without noise.  Otherwise, you're going to have a fairly miserable driving experience from all the shrieking parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If this is a load-bearing pulley, check the axle: is it straight?  Does the pulley rotate on a fixed center?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When attached to the engine, does it spin rapidly?  Did it burn out its bearing?  Look for evidence of discoloration or general gook on parts that should be clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T18:42:49.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1945" CreationDate="2011-09-17T05:32:54.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I decided to just take the plunge and found out on my model that there is no issue with manifolds or air-conditioning pumps blocking access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps in-case other non-mechanical people need to perform the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove all the bolts and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pry the oil pan off using a screwdriver and hammer to lodge the screwdriver between pan and block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twist the screwdriver to break the seal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the pan of the block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that hold the 'strainer' to the block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean, clean and clean!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sealant around the pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put Oil pan back on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand tighten bolts and wait 1 hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the bolts and wait 24 hours to cure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill with oil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T05:32:54.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2011-09-17T10:48:11.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether this is relevant, but the &lt;em&gt;lowest&lt;/em&gt; octane rating you can buy in the UK is 95. I recently filled up with 99 octane by accident, and haven't noticed much difference.  There is commonality of quite a few models across the pond, so whatever's suitable there should be suitable here, unless they come with a different ECU configuration. It's possible that the definition of octane number is different between here and the USA - anyone able to shed any light on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T10:48:11.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1958" CreationDate="2011-09-17T11:03:33.353" Score="3" ViewCount="23534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 99 SEAT Ibiza, which was until quite recently owned and driven by my mother. It's therefore been well cared for, but was hardly ever given a good run or allowed to get warm. On its last major service - which was early this year - the oil was a suspicious colour which the guy said can warn of head gasket failure, but given the treatment it's had, he figured it was more likely to just be residual moisture that hadn't been given a chance to cook off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for a few weeks I've been noticing a light tinkling sound coming from the engine bay when accelerating. I change gear early for reasons of economy, and being a fairly new driver I don't always time it right and the engine can struggle under load. The noise is most noticeable changing from 3rd to 4th at around 2000rpm then applying some firm throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the information I have and what I've read, I suspect engine knocking or misfiring. Detonation due to dirty plugs would fit the treatment it's had previously - short runs would tend to cause crud buildup, or so I gather. A friend has offered to help me inspect the distributor cap and spark plugs, but is there anything else I need to be aware of or look for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit #1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks folks. Taking advice, I've gotten into the habit of leaving the gear change til later - usually 2.5 to 3k, and the problem has pretty much disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also taken to giving it a blast up to 5k RPM when joining the highway each morning to clear away the cobwebs...but we won't tell anyone about that, will we?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastEditorUserId="1057" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T21:45:46.683" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T21:45:46.683" Title="Rattling/tinkling noise under load - is this knocking/pinking/misfiring?" Tags="|noise|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-17T15:07:12.180" Score="2" ViewCount="2166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Buick Park Avenue (standard not ultra).  Recently the heating and air stopped blowing.  It acts normal in every other way (lights and indicators work as normal) but I am not getting any blowing at all no matter the setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been assuming that the issue is blower motor (which is remarkaly easy to replace at least in my buick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct to assume that is the problem?  Once I remove the blower motor is there an easy way to test it to verify that it is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seth &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T00:51:15.047" Title="HVAC is not blowing. Is it most likely the blower motor?" Tags="|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2011-09-17T16:52:15.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly common for the fan switch to go bad. You might be able to connect 12v directly to the fan motor and see if it runs, if there are only two wires going to the fan. But there are more than two wires and you hook 12v to the wrong ones, you could do some damage to an otherwise good fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T16:52:15.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2011-09-17T16:53:34.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you've checked/changed the fuse first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blower motor is easy to get at, I would go and pulling the connector off and check that you're actually getting power to the motor and only then pull the motor if you've confirmed that you do. It wouldn't be the first time that it's actually the fan switch or something upstream from the blower motor that's gone wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T16:53:34.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2011-09-17T16:55:38.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is probably knocking, or premature detonation. It's a little hard on the motor. It's likely that you should be in a lower gear or ease off the throttle whenever you hear it. It is probably normal for that car. Higher octane gas might help, but it's not good for the car to drive in too high a gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T16:55:38.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1953" CreationDate="2011-09-17T17:03:35.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I think you're changing gear way to early if you're changing up from 3rd to 4th at 2000rpm, especially when the engine is under load. There's a reason the redline is higher than that :). You're not really doing yourself a favour with that, and neither are you doing the engine a favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knock or pinging is usually caused by the fuel burning uncontrolled and at the wrong time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of problems that can causing engine knock/pinging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrong or dirty spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition timing off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixture lean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using fuel with the wrong octane rating (too low)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much load on the engine for the rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deposits in the combustion chamber that heat up to the point that they can ignite the air/fuel mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think giving the ignition a service (ie, new plug, distributor cap and rotor if the engine still has one of those, plug leads of those look like they're original) is a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it hasn't been changed I'd change (or have someone change) the fuel filter, these fill with crud over time and if it's partially clogged this can reduce fuel pressure and cause a lean-ish mixture. I'd also run some fuel system cleaner through the tank (or use a tank or two of something like Shell V-Power that has additional cleaning ingredients) and take the car out for a good run outside of town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid of revving the engine and driving it hard(er) (aka the &quot;Italian tuneup&quot;) as you want to make sure that everything gets up to operating temperature and possible deposits get a chance to burn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T17:03:35.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2011-09-17T17:12:48.660" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take a slightly different stance here - having a vehicle stand for a year or a little longer than that isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; long, so I'd try to get it running first before I start changing out parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'd do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the carbs if it's not FI. Chances are that the fuel has evaporated and left some residue. If you didn't drain the carbs it might be worth pulling the float bowls and run some carb cleaner through them and the jets. Also make sure the floats and float needles move freely so the engine doesn't get drowned in fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least top up the tank with some fresh fuel, better to drain it, pour the old fuel into the wife's car (don't forget to top it up with some fresh juice) and pour some fresh fuel in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charge the battery fully. If it doesn't hold charge or not well, get a new battery and remember to buy a trickle charger :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if there's enough oil in the engine, top off if necessary. Don't change it yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn over the engine, if you can spin it on the starter without the ignition being on, do that to get some oil to the bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook up the ignition and crank the engine in short bursts (giving the the starter time to cool down in between) until it fires or the battery is dead :). If it doesn't fire then I'd check/service ignition, carbs etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the engine running OK I'd let it warm up and change the oil if it was not reasonably fresh when you put the bike away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, checking rubber parts for dry rot and stuff like that is good practise when reawakening any vehicle but I'd save that until I knew it was running OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T17:12:48.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-18T18:17:17.017" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Civic that is currently leaking water into the backseat floorboards.  We have done some diagnostics that have shown the seal on the outside of the window has separated from the window, and is allowing water to run into the door (and then into the backseat).  I was hoping to find a way to replace this myself.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1060" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T17:00:35.243" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T17:00:35.243" Title="Window Seal Leak" Tags="|honda|civic|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1974" CreationDate="2011-09-18T19:30:51.117" Score="6" ViewCount="109671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is a feature on Toyota cars alone, but I currently drive a '99 Avalon XLS and &lt;em&gt;in addition&lt;/em&gt; to the D3 mode which I know disables overdrive, right above the radio near the top  of the dash in the center panel, there's a button for &quot;ECT Mode&quot; which I've heard is a way for the car to increase the RPM threshold before shifting gears therefore making it more agile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I've used this feature when doing highway driving as it makes switching lanes much easier (since I don't have to floor the car) but I wanted to know if this feature is the same as disabling overdrive because I've noticed lower fuel economy when driving, and also when in standard stop and go driving, leaving the ECT on seems to be a safety hazard as the higher threshold doesn't mix well when accelerating from 0 to 30 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some forums people have said this feature is for towing or for driving up hills, but as I also have the overdrive kill switch, I'm wondering if this is more of a performance feature vs. for utility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T00:04:52.453" Title="What is ECT Mode for? - Toyota Cars?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|performance|towing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1993" CreationDate="2011-09-19T01:24:23.740" Score="7" ViewCount="37642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my factory motor mounts replaced on my 2000 eclipse at 175k miles. I am now at 189k and the mounts blew again. I can hear the same rattling and squeaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the spark plugs and valve cover gasket replaced at the same time as the original motor mount fix. I recently had the timing belt replaced too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed the motor mounts would last longer than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T17:13:04.337" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T16:16:04.813" Title="What would cause motor mounts to go out on a factory engine?" Tags="|engine|motor-mounts|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1962" CreationDate="2011-09-19T01:44:04.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ECT mode reduces the power to the wheels in order to prevent spinning in the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T01:44:04.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-19T01:49:31.383" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motor mounts should last longer than that. They normally break when you put a lot of stress on them, such as hitting a raised railroad crossing going too fast. Sometimes they'll break if there is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of vibration in the engine, but you would notice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they went out that fast, a couple of possibilities are (1) the new mounts didn't get put on right, and one had stress on it causing it to break, or (2) the frame or unibody is bent enough to put stress on the engine mounts, and you'll need some extra washers or spacers added. These are just guesses, and there are surely a lot of other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="996" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T19:31:49.020" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T19:31:49.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-19T02:07:56.490" Score="7" ViewCount="5436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pre-owned Volvo XC90 - 2007 3.2 V6 AWD. Or at least that's what it says on the car and the paperwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the dry, this car regularly spins the front wheels and there is fairly significant torque steer on acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the wet, the car stood still today on a hill with the front wheels scrabbling for grip. I owned a AWD Volvo XC90 previously but never experienced wheelspin or torque steer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I be sure before I approach the dealer about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1062" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T03:54:17.853" Title="How can I be sure my vehicle is a 4x4 / AWD?" Tags="|transmission|awd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1966" CreationDate="2011-09-19T03:07:10.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd check is that it's got the AWD driveline - there should be a driveshaft from the gearbox in the front connecting to a diff at the rear &quot;axle&quot;, plus driveshafts from each rear wheel to the diff. If that's missing, well, there's your problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it has an AWD driveline, my suspicion would be that the center diff that is supposed to feed power to the rear wheels isn't working as it should. A lot of the more recent FWD-based cars normally run something like a 90/10 front rear split and only feed more power to the rear wheels if the front wheels have traction issues. Actually, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/05/31/009201.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; of a 2006 XC90 the split is 95%/5% under normal circumstances and can change up to 50%/50% depending on conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T03:07:10.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1990" CreationDate="2011-09-18T03:03:59.183" Score="2" ViewCount="5447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hedge trimmer I'm troubleshooting &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/6640/trouble-starting-my-gas-hedge-trimmer&quot;&gt;(link)&lt;/a&gt; and I'm wanting to rule out the ignition coil. What resistance should I measure across a typical small engine ignition coil? I would have thought down around 50 ohms or less, but I'm measuring up in the Kohms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" OwnerDisplayName="Captain Claptrap" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.600" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T14:34:05.707" Title="What resistance is typical across a small engine ignition coil?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1978" CreationDate="2011-09-19T07:57:25.217" Score="5" ViewCount="1688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently left my Harley Davidson 883 Superlow in ignition on for 8 hours, headlight drained all the battery. This was my first time jumpstart experiment. Had following few questions, happy to be corrected or redirected to previous questions. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Voltage dropped to 4.5 V I am currently charging the battery with battery tender, is it impossible for this battery to come alive? I read many places saying once battery goes below 10.5 its dead, should I just tow my bike or continue charging? ( After 24 hours charging now voltage is around 6.8v, I've got battery tender junior .75 amp charger)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to jump  it using my car battery, (afer multiple failed attempts) all the lights came up, engine did the booting sound, but when I pressed start button engine is trying to start and fails. I checked the voltage (at the bike end) its 12v only thing is cables are 12ft, and my theory is because of this length voltage is maintained but not current flow (amperes) is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T22:31:53.213" Title="Does length of jumper cable matter while jumpstarting a motorcycle from car battery as a booster?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-19T08:07:02.260" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were the mounts replaced with factory-spec ones? A friend of mine replaced his with aftermarket ones as OEM mounts for his car were not available, and they failed after only a few months due to poor vulcanisation between the rubber and metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T08:07:02.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1961" CreationDate="2011-09-19T08:15:49.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean the rear windscreen or the side door window? If it is the windscreen, I believe they are bonded in and so will be very difficult to do anything with unless you have specialist equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the door window, the seals on these usually clip to the door frame and so should be replaceable. You may find they you have to remove the window glass to do this, but the procedure for that ought to be oulined in the workshop manual (if you can still get hold of those for cars that recent)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T08:15:49.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1969" CreationDate="2011-09-19T08:35:20.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally thickness that matters on jump leads more than length, however a motorbike shouldn't require a huge amount of current to get it going, so cables capable of starting a small car ought to be fine for most bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're doing the right thing by trying to trickle-charge the battery. If it is a relatively new battery it ought to be OK, but an older battery (more than 3-4 years) will be affected by being fully discharged like that, and chances are will struggle to hold a charge for long. If you've only got up to 6.8v on a 12v battery then I'd suggest that is the case unfortunately, so you may well need a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to jump it from a car battery, make sure the car is running at the time so you can use the car's alternator as a power source - you should get around 13.8v if the alternator is in good condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T08:35:20.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1966" CreationDate="2011-09-19T12:55:22.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I've driven an AWD Volvo XC90 several times before and that was my experience as well.  If that's normal, then it's the worst AWD system I've ever driven.  Had terrible torque steer under hard acceleration, and front wheelspin was a major issue on loose surfaces.  Didn't think much about it (even though it was new when I first drove it, and continued to drive it occasionally until it was about 2 years old) since it wasn't my vehicle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried checking to see if there are any recalls for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T12:55:22.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1962" CreationDate="2011-09-19T12:57:45.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Avalon, the ECT mode buttons toggles between normal/economy and power shift patterns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T12:57:45.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2037" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:04:33.217" Score="8" ViewCount="69637" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context/Information:&lt;/strong&gt; If I understand correctly, having a fixed axle in a car makes getting things aligned significantly harder. This seems to be the case in my 2009 Toyota Corolla and the rear axle. When my wife took it to Costco to get new tires, they told her the old front tires had some cupping and the rear set had feathering (don't have more details than that). She took it to get aligned, in order to prevent further unnecessary wear, and was told that the front was already within factory specs, and the rear was not adjustable (though the minor improvements to the front specs threw the rear left toe OUT OF factory specs and the left further out of spec for both toe and camber). The factory tires replaced had about 41,000 miles on them. &lt;strong&gt;The specs for the rear camber and toe are apparently -2.0 to -1.0 degrees and 0.01 to 0.26 degrees, respectively.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-- BEGIN EDIT --&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Front Measurements&#xA;&#xA;                         Before          |             After&#xA;                     Left  |    Right    |      Left     |    Right&#xA;Camber              -0.60  |    -0.80    |     -0.60     |    -0.80 &#xA;Caster               3.10  |     2.80    |      3.10     |     2.80 &#xA;Toe                  0.09  |    -0.02    |      0.00     |     0.01&#xA;SAI                 12.60  |    12.60    |     12.60     |    12.60&#xA;Included Angle      12.00  |    11.80    |     12.00     |    11.80&#xA;-------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;                                         |           &#xA;Cross Camber              0.20           |           0.20&#xA;Cross Caster              0.30           |           0.30&#xA;Cross SAI                 0.00           |           0.00&#xA;Total Toe                 0.07           |           0.01&#xA;&#xA;___________________________________________________________________&#xA;Rear Measurements&#xA;&#xA;                         Before          |             After&#xA;                     Left  |    Right    |      Left     |    Right&#xA;Camber              -1.20  |    -2.00*   |     -1.10     |    -2.10*&#xA;Toe                  0.21  |     0.01*   |      0.28*    |    -0.02*&#xA;-------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;                                         |           &#xA;Cross Camber              0.80*          |           0.90*&#xA;Total Toe                 0.21           |           0.26&#xA;Thrust Angle              0.10           |           0.15&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;___________________________________________________________________&#xA;All measurements are in degrees&#xA;* indicates not within manufacturer specifications&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the shop stated &lt;code&gt;The manufacturer does not specify rear CAMBER and TOE adjustments&lt;/code&gt;, leading me to believe the rear axle is solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-- END EDIT --&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question(s):&lt;/strong&gt; How bad is a right toe reading of 0.28 degrees (0.02 above the spec range), a left toe reading of -0.02 degrees (0.03 below), and a left camber reading of -2.1 degrees (0.1 below)? my instinct is that this may reduce the life of the tires only very subtly, and would be mitigated fairly well by rotating tires. Is there a general rule to go by for alignment's affect on wear? How long SHOULD my tires have lasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1056" LastEditorUserId="1056" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T17:07:37.460" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:46:46.793" Title="Wheel Alignment: Just how bad is bad?" Tags="|tires|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:58:25.137" Score="-1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a car with a turbo engine that requires 91 premium gas.  Out of the major gasoline companies like Shell, Chevron, BP, etc., is there one in particular &lt;strike&gt;that is better than the others&lt;/strike&gt; that has been consistently documented to be superior to the others for engine life and performance?  I live in Chicago, within the city, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastEditorUserId="1063" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T00:21:35.460" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T00:21:35.460" Title="Best brand of premium gas?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-09-19T19:31:29.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1976" CreationDate="2011-09-19T19:18:16.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no brand that is superior to the others. Most gas stations in an area get their fuel from the same refinery. Larger companies may have slightly different specs, but there is not a single brand of 91 octane that's better than the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a difference between gasoline with ethanol and gasoline without it. Ethanol free gas has a little better performance. This is because gasoline produces more energy than ethanol when it burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T19:18:16.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1969" CreationDate="2011-09-19T22:31:53.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic answer - no the length will not matter. For all practical purposes the resistance of the jumper leads can be assumed to be zero in this situation. Jump leads will be designed to cope with very high current draw (hence the thickness of the wire, and the insulation around it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your comment that you had the car engine off, it is extremely likely that is your only real problem here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the car engine while trying to start the motorbike. Sometimes when trying to start a car with a discharged battery you might need to rev the engine (on the car which is running) but for a small engine like a motorbike engine this should not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T22:31:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-20T00:11:49.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'd be worth looking for additional items that need to be addressed that could be causing extra strain on your motor mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example on my vehicle, there are the two front motor mounts underneath the engine.  Then there is a third one that depending on who you talk to will call it a rear motor mount, transmission mount or transmission isolator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the engine and transmission are hard mounted to each other, if this rear mount was bad, it could cause additional movement and stress on the front two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your suspension needs new shocks, bushings, etc you are going to have more movement in the vehicle and then items such as @xpda mentioned of rail road tracks are going to transfer into the wrong places, potentially your motor mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T00:11:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2048" CreationDate="2011-09-20T00:57:26.883" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda Civic EX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While braking continuously on a long shallow incline, the brakes will suddenly grip harder in a predictable way, jerking me forward a little and braking harder from then on.  Like it switches from one deceleration rate to another.  Is this the transmission switching to engine braking?  The brake pump turning on?  I don't think it has anything to do with the pads or rotors themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I watched the tachometer this time and it jumps up in RPM when the braking gets harder, so it's the gear shifting.  Is it supposed to affect the brakes suddenly like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T22:04:28.783" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T08:37:34.620" Title="Brakes suddenly grip harder while braking down shallow incline" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29665" CreationDate="2011-09-20T02:13:10.270" Score="1" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got Honda floor mats that fit the floor perfectly, and the driver's side has two holes through which hooks can hold it in place.  There are flaps with square holes for the clips to mount into, but the mats didn't come with the clips.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQhcb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I find them?  Everything I find says it's for another year of Civic.  Would something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/item_oem.jsp?catcgry1=CIVIC&amp;amp;n=83605-SDA-A02&amp;amp;d=HONDA_CIVIC_FLOOR_MAT_HOLDER&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; work, even though it says &quot;2005-2007 Civic&quot;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T22:52:43.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:25:02.973" Title="Floor mat holder clip hook for 2003 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|interior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2171" CreationDate="2011-09-20T03:40:57.720" Score="3" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was toying with the idea of getting a bit extra from my 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco. It's a great car but I think the turbo is being control via the computer and in my opinion, could be a bit better. I was looking at the jet performance stage 1 chips. Would using a chip like this void the mfgr warranty I have with GM? If not, is it worth the money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-11009/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-11009/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T18:34:34.013" Title="Jet performance chips &amp; mfgr warranties" Tags="|performance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-20T11:01:07.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the squeaking is coming from the motor mounts.  I had an issue that I thought was the motor mounts and so I replaced them.  The rattling was gone.  However over time it came back and got worse.  Then the balance shaft broke into pieces and it was clear that the shaft was the problem from the beginning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T11:01:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1966" CreationDate="2011-09-21T03:54:17.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get all four wheels off the ground (either take it to a shop and put it on a lift, or put it on four jack stands), give it some gas, and have somebody check if all of the wheels spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T03:54:17.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-21T04:10:00.707" Score="7" ViewCount="38483" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Accord EX 1990, just bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make a tight turn, I sometimes hear a rhythmic clunking sound. This is supposed to be a tell-tale sign of a worn CV joint. But how do I know which side it's on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had the front wheels off, I inspected the axle boots on both sides. I couldn't find any holes, but the axle assembly on one side is visibly older than the other. So I'm thinking that the old one is the prime suspect, but is there any way to be sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:47:12.220" Title="Bad CV joint, but which side?" Tags="|honda|axle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2011-09-21T05:46:53.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd get someone to stand outside the vehicle while you test it in a parking lot and see if they can hear which side it's coming from. Or you could strap a recording device on each side and compare the loudness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find the problem after doing that, I'd just let it go for a while until it gets worse. This would be bad advice if you want to &lt;em&gt;fix&lt;/em&gt; the joint, in which case fixing it early would avoid further damage, but when rebuilt axles with a lifetime warranty cost about $60, I can't see why you'd want to go to the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T05:46:53.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2011-09-21T09:06:03.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If It remember correctly, it is usually the inside wheel - i.e. if the noise is louder on sharp right turns, it's the right hand joint and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to tell is to jack up the car and support it on stands. Grasp the wheel in one hand and the driveshaft in the other, and try to rotate them in opposite directions. The worn one should feel 'looser' than the other. You can also try putting the wheel on full lock while the car is up, and rotating it by hand to try and feel the clonking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T09:06:03.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1982" CreationDate="2011-09-21T12:03:43.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modifications almost always affect the warranty.  The warranty is based upon a standard car used in typical circumstances.  If you go outside of those (either by modifying things or using the car atypically (like racing it)) then the warranty is in jeopardy.  It comes down to how generous the dealer/company happen to be the day that you need work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, chip replacements in general are relatively low risk compared to other modifications, but it does carry risk depending on how aggressive the individual chip is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T18:34:34.013" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T18:34:34.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1968" CreationDate="2011-09-21T14:34:05.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It typically depends on the model but 50 ohms across the positive wire post and the spark plug wire post would indicate a problem. While I can't definitively answer what range your specific coil should read, it would typically be good to see an automotive coil read ~10,000 ohms for this check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you would see a low resistance is across the primary winding. That would be the positive wire and the negative wire posts. This should read a negligible resistance, think 0-10 ohms (give or take). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1013" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T14:34:05.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1992" CreationDate="2011-09-21T15:29:47.350" Score="9" ViewCount="51791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Caravan (base model) and normally on my drive to work and my highway drives in rush-hour, the engine warms up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a road trip for work, about an hour and fifteen minutes of driving at basically 60-80mph the whole way. The engine never warmed up. In fact it went from being warmed up (about halfway up the gauge) to just barely above the Cold marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My blower only works on high, (a problem for another day) so turning on the heat for that chilly drive made the problem even worse (lost like a bar and a half of engine temp for running the heater at 75% temp, full blower, for maybe 10-15 minutes.) I turned off the heat for the last 30-45 minutes of the drive and it still never returned to normal temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the Mitsubishi 3.0L V6, which I believe is a cast-iron block, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a 3-spd, so the engine works pretty hard to maintain highway speeds above 60, it should be producing plenty of heat. What's the best way to go about solving this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For comparison sake, in stop and go traffic, on my way into work, it takes about 20 minutes for that engine to warm up, not using the heater.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T03:51:58.840" Title="Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|heat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1991" CreationDate="2011-09-21T16:06:47.683" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the engine thermostat has failed in an open state.  The thermostat regulates the flow of coolant between the radiator and the engine.  When the engine needs more heat, it closes and cuts-off flow through the radiator.  When the engine needs less heat, it opens and allows flow to the radiator.  With the thermostat stuck open, the flow through the radiator is constant and so your engine will have a hard time keeping it's heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of problem can happen anytime, but it's not until the weather starts cooling that it gets noticed.  Colder outside air means more cooling from the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your your other question, &quot;could any serious damage have been done with the engine below operating temp at highway speeds...&quot; The answer is probably not.  You may have lost some fuel economy, but cooling an engine too much shouldn't be too much of a problem.  The other extreme, having too much heat, is where engines start to have big problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, a replacement thermostat is typically very cheap, usually &amp;lt; $25.  Changing it depends on how easy it is to get to and how comfortable you are with draining some radiator fluid and refilling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T16:06:47.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-21T16:10:10.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abusive driving (neutral drops, hard launches, burn-outs, etc.) can also cause motor mounts to break prematurely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T16:10:10.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1874" CreationDate="2011-09-21T17:15:20.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common problem in Civics of that year.  It's not the main catalyst that goes bad, it's the pre-cat (the one hanging right off the exhaust manifold).  This one is for cold start and once your car is warmed up, the lion's share of the work is done by your main catalyst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it in to the dealer to have your pre-cat checked.  Many cars have a 10 year warranty on emissions equipment.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T18:49:25.287" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T18:49:25.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2011-09-21T19:35:05.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story to include a fairly short answer, but it's pretty amusing, so I'll give the &lt;em&gt;whole&lt;/em&gt; story.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Dad once WAAAAY overfilled our cheap-o mower (Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton engine on it) due to filling the entire oil compartment when all you're supposed to do is wet the sponge in it.  This occurred after we realized it had no oil in it, which we finally figured out after a Summer of having it quit working and be seized up every 20 minutes (from overheating apparently, you couldn't budge the cord until it cooled off, then it would run fine again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of the overfill was to blow oil, both in liquid and smoke form, through the muffler like crazy for several minutes.  Pretty much fogged in our whole street before it cleared up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, we (several years later) retired that mower by parking it out back and just leaving it there.  The new fancy mower tossed a rod a month after the 3 year warranty was up, so we grabbed the ol' beat up mower from where it had been abandoned.  Started on the 3rd pull (with the same gas, oil, and plug that were in it when we left it to sit in the elements)...  Apparently Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton make a seriously tough engine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T19:35:05.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-21T23:21:57.680" Score="3" ViewCount="2285" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1990 Honda, it's falling apart. I'd like to just rip it off; will that cause any problems? More specifically: will the car pass New York state inspection with a missing cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T00:45:08.470" Title="What's the purpose of the cover on the catalytic converter?" Tags="|exhaust|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1998" CreationDate="2011-09-22T00:45:08.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you if it'd fail inspection or not, but there's a good reason for its existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a heat shield that protects the body of the car and the carpet/sound deadening in the car from the heat of the cat. Catalytic converters can get very hot (in the worst case, glowing hot) and without the heat shield that can cause problems or at least discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try to see if you can find a replacement at a junk yard or on ebay from somewhere less corrosion-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T00:45:08.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-22T01:45:38.950" Score="6" ViewCount="13049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my Lexus RX 300 to the shop, to change the transmission fluid. While talking to the tech, he said he sucked out half the fluid and left the other old half there. Is this proper? Shouldn't they change it all out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1078" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T14:38:18.087" Title="Should you change all of your transmission fluid?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2011-09-22T08:10:57.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds pretty strange to me. I'll admit I don't know a lot about automatic transmissions, but with a manual gearbox I would always drain all the fluid when changing it. As gearboxes wear, small metal filings accumulate, and one of the reasons for changing the oil is to get rid of these filings which, if left to build up unchecked, cause even more wear. Most gearboxes I've dealt with have also had a drain plug on the bottom (so you can't only drain half if it anyway), with a magnetic element to collect the aforementioned filings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T08:10:57.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2003" CreationDate="2011-09-22T15:36:59.470" Score="10" ViewCount="4541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car (2006 Honda Civic) to firestone to get an oil change and they told me I should get the fuel injectors cleaned.  I was in an Advanced Discount Auto Parts store the other day and I noticed that you can buy a bottle of fuel injector cleaner that you can pour down your gas tank.  Is this what firestone would do or would they do something that you can't buy at at store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1081" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T16:37:23.683" Title="Cleaning fuel injectors?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-09-22T16:05:34.687" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;correct&quot; way to clean fuel injectors is to take them out and use some specialised equipment that also allows you to check the injector's spray pattern and flow, which I doubt Firestone will have - usually only FI specialists do have that sort of kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that they were trying to sell you some overpriced additive that you can buy at the store and pour into the tank. At a stretch the might have the sort of injector cleaner that you hook into the fuel system and run cleaner through that way. The latter is better, but still doesn't allow them to check if the clean was actually effective because the injectors stay where they are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did they actually say &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they thought your injectors needed cleaning (apart from their bottom line, obviously)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think they'd benefit from cleaning, I might be tempted to spend $10 on a bottle of Seafoam, Techron or other injector/fuel system cleaner and pour that into the tank. That'll still save you a lot of money compared to what Firestone would be asking to do more or less the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in a lot of cases when people recommend that you clean the injectors, you're better off at checking/changing the fuel filter if that hasn't been changed recently. That's something that's overlooked often and tends to have more of an impact on fuel flow than deposits on the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T17:17:18.903" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:17:18.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-22T17:49:21.960" Score="2" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn my ac up high, I hear a vibrating sound coming from one of the vents.  It vibrates more if I turn it up higher.  What could this possibly be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1081" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T20:32:45.310" Title="Vibrating sound coming from air condition vent when turned up high?" Tags="|honda|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2004" CreationDate="2011-09-22T19:03:37.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vent fan blades may be hitting something, such as part of the fan housing or a bottle cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T19:03:37.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2011-09-22T19:08:02.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you've only driven the car 4 hours with a new battery, the most likely thing would probably been a loose wire on the battery. Check the big wires and the small ones both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility that hasn't been mentioned is that a safety switch on the brake pedal or gear shift level may not be switched. Try wiggling the gear shift lever and brakes. If that doesn't help, check out the switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T19:08:02.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-09-22T19:16:04.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against using any kind of additive or cleaner.  Your best bet is to send it to a professional injector cleaning service.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my car hit 100K miles, I sent the injectors to this place &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this place&lt;/a&gt;.  Was fast and inexpensive though you have to live your car being down for about a week.  He even gives you a comparison of how fuel flowed before and after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T19:16:04.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2015" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:46:55.460" Score="2" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a BMW 525i (2005 model, automatic) and was wondering if this model supports an adapter like later models for an auxiliary or iPod cable integration? I did some Googling and found some people saying they have, but could find no reference to part numbers or instructions for doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an adapter on eBay for $20AUD for BMW iPod integration, however I am not sure if the adapter is for later model BMW's 2007 onwards that I know support it. Here is a link to the eBay listing with the lead, would this work? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-MINI-IPOD-IPHONE-USB-AUX-CABLE-CONNECTOR-ADAPTER-/230606087956?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item35b131a714&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-MINI-IPOD-IPHONE-USB-AUX-CABLE-CONNECTOR-ADAPTER-/230606087956?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item35b131a714&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T03:51:04.497" Title="Using an iPod / iPhone in a 2005 BMW 525i Sedan" Tags="|electrical|bmw|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:50:51.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were all of the engine mounts replaced or just the broken ones? It's possible that you're replacing engine mounts whilst not replacing other engine mounts which could be making your motor slightly vibrate which will further stress the other mounts and break them. It takes just one bad mount to break the rest of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you thrashing your car by any chance? Burn-outs, hard breaking and accelerating, if it's a manual hard gear changes can also break your mounts earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T23:50:51.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2011" CreationDate="2011-09-23T01:17:25.717" Score="8" ViewCount="204229" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drive my car the first few miles, I smell exhaust inside the car with the windows rolled up.  It happens when I have either the AC or the heat/air on... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T19:56:43.563" Title="Why am I smelling exhaust inside the cabin of my car?" Tags="|ac|exhaust|heat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2011-09-23T01:39:15.713" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhaust inside a car is bad. It can come in through your vents, through the floor, or through the firewall. No matter where it's coming from, you should get it fixed because you can pass out from carbon monoxide, and if the engine keeps running after the crash it could kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably won't take too much to fix -- the hard part is finding the air leak. You smell it when you start the car because your exhaust smells more then, and because the wind isn't pushing the exhaust back like it does when you're moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T01:39:15.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2011-09-23T02:30:27.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;xpda has a very good answer.  I would augment it with an additional caution: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hcfd.org/helpful.htm#co3&quot;&gt;carbon monoxide effects are cumulative&lt;/a&gt;, they don't go away very quickly once you are in fresh air...  So driving short periods while exposed to CO, with breaks in between, may still be enough to cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common cause of exhaust in the cabin that xpda didn't mention is leaks in the exhaust at the engine or in the headers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T02:30:27.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3629" CreationDate="2011-09-23T02:48:50.903" Score="30" ViewCount="441594" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference (besides price) between normal, platinum, and iridium spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1083" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T06:26:43.073" Title="What is the difference between normal, platinum, iridium plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2011-09-23T02:54:47.773" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you have an exhaust leak, it's dangerous (to you in the form of carbon monoxide) and should not be ignored. An easy way to check for the leak is to pull a vacuum line off the intake and suck a small amount (1 - 2oz) of transmission fluid into the intake via that vacuum line. Make sure the vehicle is outside, because it's going to smoke &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;. The smoke will lead you right to the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exhaust should exit only out of the tail pipe, far away from the fresh air intake and the interior of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T02:54:47.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2008" CreationDate="2011-09-23T03:51:04.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used several of the products from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dension.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dension&lt;/a&gt; including the Gateway 300, Five and Blue.  For your car they list the Gateway 500.  This device is around $450, plus another $150 if you want to do bluetooth.  The ipod cable tends to be extra as well, though I don't remember how much.  Note that there are some caveats for your car, see their compatibility page for the Gateway 500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These devices will also play audio off USB mass storage devices.  That's mostly what I use them for, though recently I upgraded to one that will do Bluetooth phone audio and music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their products are solid, in general though for playing USB it requires a Windows program to generate an index for the music to get the full functionality.  Their products are also kind of all over the map, for example the 300 I started with worked very reliably.  The more recently introduced Five requires steering-wheel audio controls, which my car does not have.  They wouldn't answer me about why they didn't make it so that you could use the head unit controls like the 300 does.  So I switched to the Blue, which doesn't require the steering wheel controls, but also doesn't display song titles on the car displays like the 300 and Five do -- again for no reason I could figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option I have heard of is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mobridge.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mobridge&lt;/a&gt;.  I have never used these units, but my installer is in love with them (they need to get a room :-).  However, these are quite a bit more expensive than the Dension units, from what I could see, around 50% more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased the Dension gear from &lt;a href=&quot;http://enfigcarstereo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Enfig Car Stereo&lt;/a&gt;, and have been happy with them.  I found them by using the Dension compatibility matrix to look up the exact product code I needed, and then putting that into google and clicking on the &quot;Shopping&quot; section to find vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have no relation to the above companies except as a consumer of their goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T03:51:04.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2018" CreationDate="2011-09-23T04:34:36.503" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious what benefit a shop would provide vs a mobile inspection service.  I know a lift is helpful in seeing certain parts of the car, and an engine code scanner is very helpful.  Any others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T04:42:29.850" Title="What shop tools are most helpful for inspecting used cars?" Tags="|tools|inspection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-09-23T04:39:07.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option with the battery is disconnecting the ground cable.  This should prevent charge loss and may be easier and simpler than the trickle charge method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T04:39:07.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2016" CreationDate="2011-09-23T04:42:29.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really depends on the car, but I'd certainly include a good pair of drive-on ramps in the list (so you don't need to put it on a lift) and a strong flashlight or similar light source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd take a magnet depending on the age of the car, so you can detect rust or collision &quot;repairs&quot; that are 90% bondo. If we're talking older or more valuable cars, I'd think a compression and a leakdown tester would come in handy, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T04:42:29.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2011-09-23T04:46:14.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rattle is like a shimmying in the steering column, it's probably a warped rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it really is a rattle, take a flashlight and poke around under that wheel to see if your cv boot is ripped or if you can see any damage to the joints leading to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be helpful to have someone else hit the brakes while you look to see how they engage on the rotors.  If the shoes are out of wack that could explain things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T04:46:14.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1313" CreationDate="2011-09-23T05:18:51.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for reoccurring warping seems to be (form what I've read) &quot;imprinting&quot; your pads on the rotors: fully applying the brake on a very hot rotor for an extended period of time (a few seconds), thus leaving behind a deposit film that causes the warping problems.  Maybe your pad is dragging on the forward rotor, causing it to heat up?  With the way modern pads are designed, it's hard to imagine that daily driving habits would cause this unless you really ride the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Larry mentioned, ball joints will not cause rotors to warp, and I can add that alignment will not cause this either.  So it seems &quot;the guys at Monroe&quot; were just throwing that out because it sounded good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The again, sometimes the problems caused by control arm failure can be confused for rotor failure.  Did they do a run out test to check for wear to make sure that was the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T05:18:51.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1695" CreationDate="2011-09-23T05:24:59.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great answers above, but as a general comment: if your going down a long steep hill and you don't do it that often (or if you're not familiar with the area) always use engine braking.  You can fix a transmission if you somehow screw things up, but you're still much better of than if your brakes overheat and fail and you end up in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T05:24:59.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2011-09-23T15:26:02.953" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference is the material that the 'tip' of the spark plug is made of - normal ones are usually copper, whereas the other two have tips made out of platinum or iridium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Platinum and iridium tips tend to last longer - copper tends to erode over time so the spark plugs wear out - plus they're slightly better conductors and can produce a spark under more adverse conditions (like under high cylinder pressures on turbocharged cars that run high boost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an unmodified car that specifies normal plugs, platinum or iridium plugs won't make much of a difference apart from cost; I'd stick with the manufacturer's recommendation and change the plugs as per schedule. On an engine that has been modified with higher compression or more boost, it might be worth springing for platinum or iridium plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, on a car where those plugs are specified (usually due to the extended service interval for the plugs) you'll have to use them anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T15:26:02.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2023" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-23T17:49:44.663" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T17:49:44.663" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T17:49:44.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-23T17:49:44.663" Score="0" Body="Suspension is the term given to the system of springs, shock absorbers and linkages that connects a vehicle to its wheels. -Wikipedia" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T17:52:06.703" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T17:52:06.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-23T22:06:02.170" Score="2" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was installing a boost gauge, and must've shorted something out because now my turn signals, fog lights, ac blower, and wipers don't work.  I checked the fuses but they weren't blown.  How can I pinpoint what the problem is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  This past Saturday I took my time to tackle this problem.  I pulled every fuse, everyone checked out. Then I started pulling relays, testing them by wrapping some wire around the 85/86 poles and connecting them to the battery, then testing for continuity between the other poles.  Alas I found two dead relays.  One, I believe, is the switched power relay and the other is the wiper relay.  The stores around me only had the switched power relay.  Bought it and replaced it.  Lo and behold I start the car and the first thing I hear is the beep from the boost gauge!  Everything is now working except for the blower.  Not sure if replacing the other relay will fix things as I read that there is none for my car, just the resistor that sits on the blower motor.  The make is &lt;strong&gt;99 Audi A4 1.8TQ&lt;/strong&gt;. Any ideas?  Found this wiring diagram: &lt;a href=&quot;http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Audi/1997/A4/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig02.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Audi/1997/A4/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig02.pdf&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Audi/1997/A4/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Audi/1997/A4/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig01.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS:  Its kind of ironic, had I just rushed and put everything back together before testing everything would've been fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastEditorUserId="997" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T04:39:50.327" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T17:52:51.677" Title="Shorted electrical, lots of things not working" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|headlight|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-24T02:03:51.167" Score="2" ViewCount="4033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Toyotta Corolla 2002 and sometime ago is not anymore possible to open the passenger door by inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening the passenger door using the exterior handle is working only the inside handle/latch is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened the door and there is a 'metal' rod that go from the inside plastic lath (passenger side) until 'someplace' and makes the door open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this car all the system is 'mechanical' I have check the later documentantion and the iron rod was substituted for plastic cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Anyone have clear instructions how to fix that?&#xA;2- Any diagrams how to fix the iron rod in a way that does not fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I opened all the door, tried to fix the metal rod and when I closed the door bang... it falls apart... (after 4 hours of work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the instructions on internet talk about if the latch is broken... My latch is ok... The problem is the metal rod that when the latch lever is pulled opens the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1086" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T21:17:47.757" Title="Inside door latch not working - Toyotta Corolla 2002" Tags="|maintenance|toyota|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2029" CreationDate="2011-09-24T20:06:35.927" Score="6" ViewCount="11634" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light on my 1997 Honda Civic lit up. I came across a method for troubleshooting (&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557&lt;/a&gt;) but I'm having trouble finding the connector.  Can someone please tell me where this connector is?  I've looked on both sides of the interior but can't seem to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some examples of what the connector looks like (supposedly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xMmQN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHHxp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="525" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T02:36:13.440" Title="Where exactly is the Check Engine Light connector on a 1997 Honda Honda Civic?" Tags="|troubleshooting|cel|interior|sensor|dtc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-24T23:58:56.780" Score="1" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should it cost (parts and labor) to replace a power window motor in a 2003 Toyota Corolla? What should I consider when deciding between factory vs. used vs. aftermarket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T17:16:07.827" Title="Replacing power window motor in a 2003 Corolla" Tags="|toyota|power-windows|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2027" CreationDate="2011-09-25T06:51:42.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just in front of the front passenger side door, under the dashboard. It might be stuck down behind the carpet a ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T06:51:42.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1168" CreationDate="2011-09-25T08:36:38.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you need to check the speed rating and load rating of the tyre, normally indicated by something like 91W or 91W...95W etc.  If the cars are drastically different in terms of speed and weight and are also an important factor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of an accident if you dont have the correctly rated tyres (as specified by the manufacturer) insurers will use that as a get out clause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally on tyres you can go up/down 10mm from the specified tyre width without too much of a problem - i.e. if a manufacturer says &quot;215&quot; then in theory you could go to 205 or 225 width tyres, but I wouldnt push it further than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T08:36:38.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2026" CreationDate="2011-09-25T21:17:47.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a small clip to hold the end of the metal rod into the mechanism. They are usually made of either a bit of thin folded sheet metal, or moulded plastic, as shown in the circle at the bottom of this image (which appears to be for a Honda of some sort, but is the clearest Google came up with):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0Kkd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Door Handle Clip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T21:17:47.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-09-25T21:26:36.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, get hold of a proper wiring diagram for your car. Disconnect all the wires you have added, and see if that solves the problem. Work methodically back through everything you have changed, as the cause must be in there somewhere if they worked before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping into random wires without knowing that they are for is always going to be a recipe for disaster. When adding accessories, you should always locate an appropriate feed (either permanent live or ignition-switched-live depending on the accessory) at the point they enter the fuse box, and tap in using proper terminals - never any sort of self-stripping type piggy-back connectors. You should then fit a fuse as soon as possible in your wiring in case of problems. It is usually fine to use any convenient common ground however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T21:26:36.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-09-25T23:36:10.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have blown a Maxi-Fuse, or fusible link. Get the wiring diagram, more specifically the power distribution diagram and you will likely find all of those accessories are powered from on Maxi-fuse, or fusible link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be able to provide you more assistance if you will update your question with the make model year of your car. It would also be helpful to know what boost gauge you were hooking up, and maybe the directions for it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T23:36:10.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2036" CreationDate="2011-09-26T10:39:12.957" Score="7" ViewCount="24751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the brake pads replaced on my Forester STi (4 pot Brembos all round) and have noticed a strange noise on first application of the brakes after moving either forwards or backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this I mean I can start off, then as I touch the brakes there will be a clunk. This won't happen again until I go in reverse, then it will happen once. And when I go forward again it will happen the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes me think something is loose in the brake mounting and it is moving forwards against a stop through friction when I touch the brake, and it moves back again when I do the same in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take it to the garage anyway, as I couldn't pin it down at home, but any thoughts on what it might be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:38:37.843" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T23:13:32.903" Title="Clunk noise from my brakes on first application" Tags="|brakes|subaru|forester|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2011-09-26T12:48:55.983" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago, I had similar problems on my car after changing the pads.  The first thing I did was to make sure all of the mounting hardware was tight (bolts torqued to spec, &lt;em&gt;etc.&lt;/em&gt;).  Next I looked for obvious problems in the suspension.  Finally I took it into my mechanic and had him go over it.  In the end, it turned out that there was room for some play between the width of the brake pad and the opening in the caliper.  He said not to worry about it, and it finally went away.  (I'm guessing the brake dust decided that the small space was a good place to gather.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T12:48:55.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1975" CreationDate="2011-09-26T14:05:25.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You basically have 3 measurements in the front, and 2 in the back that are normally adjustable unless you have a solid axle (You don't). The front &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;caster&lt;/a&gt; is adjusted at the strut mount, the front/rear &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;camber&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;toe&lt;/a&gt; normally utilize rods to adjust. The toe utilizes the tie rods in the front that are attached to your steering box, and the rear usually uses a rear tie rod that is set in place. The camber is adjusted using a mounting arm in most cases, and all 5 of these should be available in your vehicle. There are of course other measurements that are looked at to determine whether your vehicle will drive straight or not, but these are the commonly adjustable ones. The numbers you mention seem small, and if the vehicle is not pulling, you should be ok. The most important thing to extend tire life is the pressure, if you let your pressures drop, you will wear the tire out. If they tried to align the vehicle, and it failed, you might need suspension parts at this point (pot holes are rod/arm killers). Most dealerships keep a competitive rate on alignments, so do not be afraid to call and get an alignment quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T14:05:25.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2011-09-26T15:03:02.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned check to see if all the bolts are tight.  One time, I left one of the caliper carrier bolts not tight enough and it fell out while driving and made some awful noise as brake started to drift off the rotor.  Same thing happened to my friend who had his brakes done at a shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just a matter of a gap between pad and rotor/caliper, I would try pumping the pedal to push the piston out to close the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T15:03:02.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1991" CreationDate="2011-09-26T15:08:18.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case replacing the thermostat doesn't work, it might just be a broken Coolant Temperature Sensor, which is what sends the info to the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T15:08:18.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2035" CreationDate="2011-09-26T18:25:52.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem after the friction material delaminated from the backing plate on one of my brake pads.  As long as I kept going the same direction it was quiet, but whenever I switched between forwards/backwards, the loose material would shift and clunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T18:25:52.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="861" CreationDate="2011-09-26T22:20:17.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up pulling off the bed cover by unscrewing the 8 screws on the inside of the tailgate. There was a metal plate underneath that also came off, giving me access to the inner-workings of the tailgate latch mechanism. The plastic hardware connecting one of the pull-rods to the handle lever had snapped. The hardware kit that I had purchased from Auto-Zone actually didn't have anything that fit my setup. So I scrounged some hardware up from my garage and kludged a solution together. (Yes, duct tape was involved.) The solution that worked involved a wire-shelving drywall anchor, a 1/4&quot;x20 nut, and 4 washers. The drywall anchor was a little too small for the hole on the lever, so I put a few wraps of duct tape around the bottom to keep it from pulling back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhjrC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T22:20:17.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5111" CreationDate="2011-09-27T20:47:11.527" Score="6" ViewCount="9046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2003 Acura TL.  This has been a great car, but there is one unexplained nuisance: It keeps making a humming sound while the engine is switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, it isn't a problem when the car is parked in the garage, but I can't take my car on camping trips because the humming sound keeps me awake at night!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I hear a humming sounds that seems to come from the car's undercarriage.  It seems to be louder outside the car than inside the car.  The humming sound is at a nearly constant pitch; it sounds almost as if there is a person underneath my car humming very loudly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each hum lasts for several seconds and the hums are minutes apart, but I've noticed that they seem to go on indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appears to be no problem what-so-ever with driving the car; it just makes this strange sound over and over when it is parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing the problem and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I've been working on a timing belt change on this car.  I've noticed that even with the battery disconnected, it still keeps making the sound!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: This question is getting old, but the car still has the same issue.  Last weekend, I changed the front struts on my car.  I drove it about 200 miles to where I raised it up to work on it.  It was about 100 deg F outside and the car made that awful sound about once every two or three minutes (much more frequently than I remember in the past).  Once again, I disconnected the battery and the noise continued just as before.  It went on and on for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I crawled under the car and found that the sound is coming from a grayish-blue plastic box with several electrical connections going into it.  It is mounted about half-way between and slightly forward of the rear tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next morning, I continued work after the car sat overnight and the sounds had stopped completely.  I poured in a quart of motor flush, idled the engine for a few minutes, and changed the oil, and the sound was still stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that information, can anyone tell me what this odd plastic box is and why it's making loud humming sounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastEditorUserId="1095" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T18:16:33.860" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T05:45:50.840" Title="Why does my 2003 Acura TL intermittently make humming sounds when the engine is off?" Tags="|honda|noise|acura|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2011-09-27T20:54:03.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Call around to local salvage yards or search eBay for 2003 parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, go by some used car lots with 2005-7 Civics and just compare them to what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T20:54:03.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2044" CreationDate="2011-09-27T21:16:02.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally I would have thought it would be the fan, as the thermostat trips to cool the engine. Your car may do this for a short while after you park it, but not all night - that is weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you had a look to see if any of the fans are spinning up when it makes this noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T21:16:02.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-09-27T22:06:27.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the transmission downshifting is adding engine braking, in addition to the constant brake pressure you are applying. This will cause the car to slow down faster, as if you had pressed the brakes harder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T01:32:22.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T01:32:22.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2044" CreationDate="2011-09-27T23:36:45.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What came to mind reading this is on my car there is what you could describe as a &quot;hum&quot; when you put the key to ON without actually starting the engine that goes for a few seconds, then repeats every once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle it is a vacuum pump that is maintaining pressure in the vacuum system for the accessories that have been enabled by the key being put to ON but the engine not running to create vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are talking an 84 vs 03 so I don't know how likely the comparison adds up and the fact that it goes on and on without a key does seem strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T23:36:45.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T06:11:43.020" Score="1" ViewCount="8719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a over heating problem. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, upper radiator hose and the coolant temperature sensor. They were all in need of replacement, but my car still over heats when going up hill only. I checked the fins on my radiator and there are three medium potatoe size areas where the fins are badly bent. Could this be causing my over heating problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other question is if the fins are bent can this cause the transmission fluid to get to hot. My reason for this question is because when the car gets to normal operating temperature, but I have been driving for some time my transmission during first and second gear shifts hard. When the car is cool it does not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1096" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T01:07:32.927" Title="radiator grill fins bent" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-09-28T08:37:34.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Adding to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1980/brakes-suddenly-grip-harder-while-braking-down-shallow-incline/2048#2048&quot;&gt;Larry's answer&lt;/a&gt; based on OP's update.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I watched the tachometer this time and it jumps up in RPM when the&#xA;  braking gets harder, so it's the gear shifting. Is it supposed to&#xA;  affect the brakes suddenly like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it is not affecting &lt;em&gt;the brakes&lt;/em&gt; but it is certainly affecting the deceleration as &lt;strong&gt;the engine braking is more powerful in lower gears&lt;/strong&gt; (the rpm-to-speed factor increases, thus giving the engine more relative brake power). This will &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; like as if you've suddenly pressed the brake pedal harder &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; has nothing to do with the braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T08:37:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:47:54.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you don't mention what car you have, which can help with diagnosis as we may be able to point you towards known issues with certain models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bent or missing fins will cause the radiator to work less efficiently than normal, but that sounds like a fairly small area, so shouldn't be causing you a major problem. It is probably worth flushing the radiator out if you haven't done so already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine radiator is usually totally unconnected to the transmission fluid, so I doubt the two problems are related. Do you have a transmission cooler? If so, what condition is that in? Have you checked the condition and level of the transmission fluid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:47:54.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2082" CreationDate="2011-09-28T15:11:24.933" Score="2" ViewCount="2444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1990 Honda Accord. Sometimes, when starting up after sitting for a long time, I get blue smoke from the exhaust. This only lasts for a minute or two, after that, there's no smoke whatsoever. I've also found that if I let the engine idle for a minute after parking, instead of shutting it off immediately, then there's no smoke when I start up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The signs point to a faulty valve gasket. But since this is fairly complicated to fix, I'd like to first eliminate any other possibilities. Is there anything &lt;em&gt;besides&lt;/em&gt; a faulty valve gasket that could be causing this? (On another forum, someone suggested a PCV valve replacement for a similar problem. Does this make any sense?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T19:54:07.683" Title="Smoke on start-up: valve gasket?" Tags="|engine|honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:58:43.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called Dri-It that will keep the interior of any vehicle fresh and dry.  It is the same product that is used for ocean going containers to keep them dry while on the deck of cargo ships.  It will absolutley prevent your car from growing mold, smelling musty, or other problems associated with dampness.  The website is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dri-it.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dri-it.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with storing your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Based on the profile this user is associated with the product.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T21:26:38.163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:26:38.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T19:50:44.770" Score="6" ViewCount="3973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Chrysler Aspen, and recently (past 2 weeks) when I turn on the ac, I notice a 'foul' smell, like burnt rubber, or even sulphur-like. The smell will last a few minutes and will gradually fade away while the ac is running. Since this has not happened to me before, I need to know if something is going on with the ac. I would appreciate any help or suggestions with this concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1098" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T00:01:25.343" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T22:25:02.000" Title="Foul Smell when turning on air conditioning" Tags="|hvac|chrysler|smell|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3919" CreationDate="2011-09-28T23:44:30.143" Score="7" ViewCount="100886" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since having my tires changed, I've been hearing a clunking sound from what sounds like the back driver side of my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This noise only comes when the brakes are applies softly, just enough to slow the car down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking hard, driving normally or accelerating doesn't cause this either.&#xA;I'm thinking that the changing of the tires has been done incorrectly, but I want to go back to the shop with knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a Honda Civic SI '05 with standard 15&quot; wheel tires. I'm fairly certain that I have disks on all four wheels. I'd be surprised if it had drums on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="514" LastEditorUserId="4406" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T09:41:11.210" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T00:17:01.007" Title="Clunking sound at back of car when applying brakes" Tags="|tires|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2060" CreationDate="2011-09-29T04:02:56.623" Score="4" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;While examining this RV's engine (1989 Fleetwood Southwind 33'), I noticed what appears to be a belt-driven component, which lacks a drive belt. I'm trying to decide how important it is to replace the belt, but I need to know what this device is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RV seems to drive without it. It looks like there are air hoses coming out of this unit, one of which goes to the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(click for full-size)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9yBO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9yBOl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T16:36:23.253" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T16:36:23.253" Title="What is this component of this RV's engine?" Tags="|part-identification|rv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2059" CreationDate="2011-09-29T05:50:00.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's commonly called the smog pump although I am not sure that's the technical name for it. It is a simple vain air pump that puts fresh air into the exhaust manifold to help burn off any unburned fuel and reduce emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only affects emissions and is not critical to engine operation. It may however require a belt to pass inspection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_air_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See Wikipedia for more information.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T05:50:00.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-09-29T11:58:05.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small areas with bent fins on radiator are not a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other causes for overheating could be coolant fluid needs replacement (its cooling properties degrade over years). Also I would inspect inner surface of lower radiator hoses - see if they have traces of mud or other flow obstructions. My cockpit radiator suffers from that - its clogged with anti-leak mixture I used and needs replacement, until that it is really working at 20% of its limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T11:58:05.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-29T22:35:05.877" Score="1" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Mazda 323 estate (GLXI 1.6l petrol).&#xA;It's not been terribly reliable and has suffered from inconsistent idle - sometimes idling fast (~1500 rpm) and sometimes erratically and sometimes cutting out when stopped at lights.&#xA;The last mechanic I took it to said it was probably a problem with the air mass meter - he did some 'bodges' on it to try and get it working but the car has still failed to start on one occasion. It seems to start and drive ok at the moment, but I'm not sure how much longer it will continue to do so!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely a problem with the air mass meter or is it likely to be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does anyone know where I could get hold of a new one? (I'm based in the UK) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="559" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T21:44:09.887" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T00:07:46.063" Title="Mazda Air Mass Meter - where can I buy one?" Tags="|electrical|parts|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-30T00:10:59.097" Score="5" ViewCount="6075" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low-speed steering on this RV causes a loud squeal, presumably a slipping belt. I am trying to find check the level of the power steering fluid. I found this unmarked reservoir in the forward compartment (in front of the engine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(click for full size)&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR99o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR99ol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap doesn't help much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjAyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to follow the tube coming out of the bottom of the reservoir, and it looks promising, but I'm not certain (it's difficult to trace). I haven't identified a reservoir for the brakes yet, either, so it could be that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I tried again to trace the line coming out of the reservoir. It goes to something that is turned by the motor (presumably the hydraulic pump). From there a line goes to the brake master cylinder, then the steering gear, then back to the pump. This matches what the chassis owner's manual says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmthN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cap/dipstick drawing looks very similar to the actual cap/dipstick in the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9OXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-09-30T02:32:41.570" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T05:32:14.207" Title="Is this reservoir for power steering fluid? (1989 Fleetwood Southwind Motorhome)" Tags="|power-steering|part-identification|rv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2011-09-30T02:32:09.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that is the power steering reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T02:32:09.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-09-30T06:46:19.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, pulling the handbrake up too far puts additional stress and wears the mechanism quicker, especially cables and their attachments. But on steeper hills that is necessary. On flat surfaces few clicks should be enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget to turn front wheels towards road borderstone if you're facing downhill, or away from the curb if you're facing uphill, so that even if handbrake snaps your car safely bumps into road border rather than in next parked car or even goes on it's own across the lines. You can also leave the car in first or reverse gear (if the hill is not very steep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T06:29:22.143" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T06:29:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2068" CreationDate="2011-09-30T07:00:37.587" Score="1" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;News report (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.norwaynews.com/en/~view.php?72O64542R4483at285Oni844OI2882SG76EHi253LbN8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barentsobserver.com/murmansk-oslo-uddevalla-on-one-tank-of-diesel.4963973.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and lots more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=murmansk+oslo+ford+mondeo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;can be found&lt;/a&gt; that two guys drove Ford Mondeo Econetic with 1,6 liters diesel engine and got fuel consumption of about 3 liters per 100 kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's incredible - they drove at about 65 kilometers per hour and that's not a traffic jam where hybrid cars show themselves well, so &quot;hybrid&quot; alone doesn't explain how it was possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison: I know an owner of a Ford Focus C-Max with 2 liters gazoline engine and they report fuel consumption of about 14 liters per 100 kilometers. I agree that comparing gas versus diesel is not completely fair, but still 3 liters versus 14 liters looks impressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This story is widely discussed and some people say the car was &quot;tuned&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder what tuning that might be? How is 100 kilometers on 3 liters of fuel on a 1,6 liters car possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T12:47:49.003" Title="What's the catch in Ford Mondeo Econetic driving at 3 liters per 100 kilometers story?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-09-30T07:03:48.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should detach the panel and inspect it thoroughly. Perhaps there are some screw mounts and/or broken clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on inspection results various solutions may appear (using new screws, or complete replacement). It's impossible to fix without better inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T07:03:48.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2066" CreationDate="2011-09-30T12:47:49.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;its a combination of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the 1.6 engine is a common rail diesel turbo with a particulate filter, not sure if that makes a difference in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tyres on eco models tend to be skinnier and of a harder compound meaning they cause less rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eco models normally also have drag reducing features - such as filled in wheel trims and reduced apertures for the radiator/grilles at the front and streamlined mirrors etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;removing all extra weight will also help - how full was the tank? half full will reduce the weight significantly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my diesel car, 65km/h is just barely idling in fourth gear (fifth causes it to labour a bit) I havent looked at my consumption at that speed but I know at 120km/h I average around 4.2 litres per 100km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T12:47:49.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2011-09-30T17:43:56.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider the following answers.  They might be relevant to your situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1634/57&quot;&gt;toyota corolla 2001 air duct smell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/730/57&quot;&gt;Heater smells like sulfur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/116/57&quot;&gt;Why does my A/C blow foul smelling air when it first turns on?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a subset of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/730/heater-smells-like-sulfur/747#747&quot;&gt;what I suggested for the &quot;heater&quot; question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leaking gear lubrication (which can smell like sulfur) combined with a&#xA;  bad seal in the ventilation system (or an intake that catches a&#xA;  whiff). Check for drips under the car: they should have the same&#xA;  smell. If they're there, look for leaks around the transmission or&#xA;  differentials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hydrogen sulfide from the catalytic converter, again getting picked up&#xA;  by the ventilation system. If so, this is possibly a bad cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, one or more of the above discussions will help you in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T17:43:56.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1270" CreationDate="2011-09-30T19:34:03.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing some DIY Maintenance on my car awhile back, I picked up a Chilton book from my library and in the section on parking brakes they actually had a chart saying the number of clicks my Toyota should make when pushing the petal down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example they say five to nine clicks is safe (going from unset to full max) but any more or less means you need to have it adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book also provided a good outline on how to adjust the tension of the brake (which in my car was as simple as tightening a bolt) but I'm sure going to a mechanic wouldn't be too expensive if it's something you'd rather have a pro handle (which is probably a good idea when dealing with breaks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But overall, my point is that emergency brakes should be able to be pulled up without destroying them, but the key is making sure that the number of clicks matches what your car maker says is the ideal range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T19:34:03.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1804" CreationDate="2011-10-02T08:10:34.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the modern equivalent of an automatic 'choke' - this is the ideal speed for the engine to rev when it first starts up to bring up the temperature, get the oil circulating etc. It isn't a high speed anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars do this to some degree or other. Perfectly normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T08:10:34.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2062" CreationDate="2011-10-03T05:16:13.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&amp;amp;Nr=AND%28wpn_tl_name%3aEngine%20&amp;amp;%20Drivetrain,wpn_cat_name%3aFuel%20Systems%20&amp;amp;%20Components,wpn_scat_name%3aMAP%20Sensors%20&amp;amp;%20Components%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;? Not sure if your models match up to American ones, but this site might help. Hopefully they ship internationally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T05:16:13.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2062" CreationDate="2011-10-03T12:14:01.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about Mazda, but some manufacturers still stock parts for older vehicles - it might be worth asking at the parts desk at your nearest dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the sort of part I'd expect a normal motor factor to stock, although they might still be able to get hold of one. Your best bet is probably to try one of the bigger parts chains such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurocarparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;eurocarparts&quot;&gt;eurocarparts&lt;/a&gt; (who, despite the name, also sell bits of japanese cars), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unipart.co.uk/wps/wcm/connect/unipart/unipartgroup/admin/uabranchlist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unipart&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camberleyautofactors.com/home/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;camberley auto factors&lt;/a&gt; (the latter is local to the Berkshire/Hampshire/Surrey area, but I think they do mail order)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T12:14:01.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2011-10-03T18:03:08.283" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, I'm in the minority here.&#xA;It is my firm belief that you should have your rotors turned with every brake pad/shoe replacement! &#xA;If you do not do this everything will work perfectly fine, until you apply the brakes&#xA;then if your brake rotors/drums were glazed, heavily scored or worn out of parallel to the new brake pad your will stopping distance &lt;strong&gt;WILL&lt;/strong&gt; be INCREASED maybe even up to several feet at highway speed. &#xA;My local Napa store charges $10 to cut a rotor and will do it while you wait.&#xA;Brake warping, is a misnomer, brake rotors generally do not warp. The pulsating condition felt through the brake pedal is actually pad material burned onto the rotor in one spot.&#xA;This occurs after a very heavy braking incident which overheats the rotor then the application of the brakes in one spot on the rotor immediately following the incident. This is why the condition gradually goes away on its own. If you think about it a &quot;warped&quot; rotor would give no pedal feel as the caliper is free to move side to side for that very reason, where a thickening of the rotor in one spot on both sides generates a pulsing effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1105" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T13:51:39.517" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T13:51:39.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-04T11:58:14.193" Score="3" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a 1999 Honda Civic with Multimatic Gearbox and the current owner claims that he needs oil changes after every 7,500 Kms. But when I read about it most suggest the oil change only requires after 15,000 Kms. Anyone can clarify this to me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="759" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T05:23:58.277" Title="Honda CVT Multimatic Gearbox oil-change frequency" Tags="|honda|oil-change|gear-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2080" CreationDate="2011-10-04T14:40:39.930" Score="2" ViewCount="2692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a car n00b looking for a repair manual for my 2001 chevy malibu.  I've heard that the Chilton manuals are way better than the Haynes manuals from several people.  However, the Chilton manuals cover years 1997-2000 and 2004-2007.  Haynes, on the other hand, has a manual out to cover 1997-2003 Chevy Malibu, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What recommendations would you make?  Would the 2000 Chilton manual be accurate for my car (especially since Haynes groups 2000 Malibus in the same manual as 2001s)?  Would the Haynes manual work just as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1107" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:29:35.467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:29:35.467" Title="2001 Chevy Malibu Repair Manual" Tags="|chevrolet|manual-transmission|malibu|n-body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2083" CreationDate="2011-10-04T15:50:51.347" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about a (for example) seat/skoda/vw car, in which (un)locking the car from the inside requires the driver to press a locking bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of them broke in my car and I'm trying to find a replacement online but I just can't seem to find a name for them and/or a place where I can buy a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:01:29.513" Title="What's the name of the little plastic bolt (?) that is used by a passanger/driver to lock the door from the inside?" Tags="|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22112" CreationDate="2011-10-04T15:58:29.203" Score="3" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble starting a 1999 ford-fiesta, diesel (EN engine), that would be mk4 of fiesta. &#xA;What I tried (in that order) was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Changed fuel filter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tried starting spray (the engine seems to have compression - it did seem to start a &#xA;little bit when using the spray, but stopped when no spray was given)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Opened the input to the injectors and turned the engine to see if it has fuel going in, &#xA;I did see some fuel coming out from the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other info:&#xA;The engine didn't overheat as far as I know, the timing belt seems intact and moving when moving the wheels when in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T06:52:09.523" Title="1999 diesel Ford fiesta not starting" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2078" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:03:23.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's recently got cold, I'd suspect that the glowplugs are either dead or aren't getting power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:03:23.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:11:38.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find it the factory service manual is best way to go.  It will cost you a little more but it is much more detailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helminc.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.helminc.com&lt;/a&gt; is where I have bought several. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:11:38.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:52:31.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe he meant the engine oil every 7500kms? Transmission oil on the other hand, lasts a lot longer than engine oil. Heavy city usage, 15k max. Primarily highway, 30k max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:52:31.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2054" CreationDate="2011-10-04T19:54:07.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely it's the valve stem seals. It's not a super expensive fix, any engine shop should be able to do it, it's just time consuming. It could be bad rings on the pistons, but there would be other problems if that were the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sitting and idling helps the oil drain back out of the head. Higher rpms will pump more fluid up there and the idling helps it drain back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T19:54:07.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2077" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:01:29.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that your best bet is to search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p3841.m39.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=door%20lock%20buttons&amp;amp;_sacat=&amp;amp;rvr_id=271361339868&amp;amp;clk_rvr_id=271361339868&amp;amp;MT_ID=335&amp;amp;crlp=7494972256_9887&amp;amp;tt_encode=raw&amp;amp;geo_id=491&amp;amp;keyword=door%20lock%20buttons&amp;amp;adgroup_id=774139996&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;door lock buttons&lt;/a&gt;.  Using that search, I see a long list of parts that include the manual push buttons that you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:01:29.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:24:19.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It requires (Automatic Transmission Fluid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW has required ATF for Power Steering since the early 80's.&#xA;Truthfully, power steering fluid wouldn't do a great amount of harm to the power steering system though. Power steering fluid and ATF are quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1109" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:24:19.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-06T04:21:36.933" Score="4" ViewCount="36374" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2001 honda civic is giving me problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting from cold in the morning, the car starts at one click but when driven for a while with the engine at temperature, if I stop and turn off the ignition when I try to start it again it takes a very long time to start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it does start and I drive for a while the car shuts off and the check light come on. I have to leave it for about 5mims for it to start again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1110" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T09:11:08.507" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T03:55:19.390" Title="2001 honda civic failing to start when hot" Tags="|honda|starting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1765" CreationDate="2011-10-06T13:26:57.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to replace just the exterior plastic/glass, but the problem is finding it for a decent price.  Since your car is a 2008 (newer), it may be harder to find at a scrapyard.  If you can, then buy the part.  If not, you'll have to get the replacement from  Honda and probably pay an arm and a leg, but once you have the part, the actual replacement is not too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T13:26:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2011-10-06T13:30:00.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a first generation Acura Legend (a Honda), this problem is almost always caused by the main relay being old / stuck.  You can smack it (located by the fuse panel on the dash), and it'll start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T13:30:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2011-10-06T13:43:21.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature drops when you start driving because you have more air coming into the radiator (the car is moving at higher speed).  The same thing happens to my Acura Legend ('87).  It'll be coolest when driving on the freeway, but if I'm stopped at a light for a while, the temperature may rises (on a hot day).  Both my fans (radiator and condenser) work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T13:43:21.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-10-07T00:39:24.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After properly taking it apart, I learned the plastic mounts were actually broken and the &quot;glue&quot; that was there was likely do to a previous repair job. I went to a local WV dealer to get the part replaced and they informed me that they no longer manufacture that part. Bummer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After additional inspection, I learned that the flat-headed bolts, which the plastic mounts used to slide over, were actually long enough to secure the piece from the outside. I drilled holes through the piece and successfully secured it with the flat part of the bolt &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="225" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T00:39:24.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1226" CreationDate="2011-10-08T04:46:41.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBDII is a connection, not a protocol per say, and it specifies a subset of diagnostic codes within ISO14229.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transport protocols behind the OBDII connector are typically a combination of CAN/ISO15765-2 and KW2000 on Toyota and Hondas.  A transport protocol does not stipulate the data that is sent/received on the bus outside of some control information.  It's both an electrical characteristic and a framing protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;the guy told me that some newer Hondas have high speed computers&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not likely true.  CAN operates at several speeds that auto manufacturers typically give names to them such as HSCAN (High Speed CAN), MSCAN (Medium Speed CAN) and Infotainment CAN.  These different names are nothing more than just differences in how fast the CAN bus is being operated at called a BAUD rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HSCAN typically means 500K.  The CAN standard is covered under ISO15765-2 and the max specified speed is 1Mb or 1000Kb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if &quot;the guy&quot; told you that your Honda has a high speed computer, then what he is really saying (but doesn't know it) is that his test tool either &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;has the wrong BAUD RATE configured -- assuming test tool doesn't auto detect the BAUD rate of the CAN BUS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;has an auto BAUD feature but it doesn't test the higher speeds for whatever reason like it's too old and possibly doesn't test past a certain point or that it can't.  Highly unlikely considering the CAN spec has been around for several years now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;test tool can read your car but the guy doesn't know how to use his test tool correctly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He really has a very old test tool!  I guess this is possible but then he would have a very apparent problem with all vehicles produced in the last 20 years.  CAN2.0 came out in 1991 and OBDII was a US requirement since 1996 but this did not mean CAN2.0.  It was 2008, when the combination of OBD-II and CAN2.0 became a US requirement.  So I guess it's possible if he has a test tool more than 3 years old that has some weird partial support for CAN2.0?  Unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to a Honda dealer and have them check it for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T04:46:41.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-10-08T04:55:04.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD-II didn't become standard until 1996; some 30+ years later.  And to make matters worst, the CAN2.0 spec (ISO15765) was sort of solidified in 2008 even though it was around a bit longer.  Still, with CAN, it's just a signaling spec.  You still need something known as a DBC file to decode CAN data..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T04:55:04.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="767" CreationDate="2011-10-08T05:14:20.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best of the best is a software product called CANoe by Vector along with a CANCaseXL type hardware device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good runner up is the NEOVI Fire or ValueCAN from Intrepid Controls and their Vehicle Spy software; Vehicle Spy software, however, is total garbage!  It crashes and is extremely buggy for anything beyond simple reverse engineering which it's fairly good at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These software packages &quot;spy&quot; on the CAN bus and dump the data to a scrolling display.  They all basically allow the loading of a database file, called a DBC file, that decodes the CAN data into human readable information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DBC files go by different names.  For example, GM calls theirs the &quot;Global A platform&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ELM chips and ScanTools products are very amateurish.  They don't, for example, have the ability to run the full ISO14229 or have the ability to be augmented with database decodings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T05:14:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-09T11:00:02.393" Score="1" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it technically possible to set a timer for central locking so that it locks after 5 minutes, say, after the engine has been turned off? This is to help if you forget to lock your car at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details of any other known solutions are also gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastEditorUserId="1115" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T14:32:53.903" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T06:16:45.843" Title="Setting timer for central locking for forgetful owners" Tags="|locks|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2096" CreationDate="2011-10-09T16:30:02.760" Score="5" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Ford Focus 2004 which has about 104 thousand km on the clock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a constant noise from the front right wheel which goes away when I depress the clutch. Moreover around 60km/h and 120-130km/h there is a vibration in the steering wheel which is sometimes more sometimes less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front tires have seen better days and could/should also be replaced but don't show any irregular wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the most likely cause? Did anybody have similar experiences? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T19:03:08.220" Title="Ford Focus steering wheel vibration and noise from front right wheel4" Tags="|ford|tires|focus|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2095" CreationDate="2011-10-09T19:03:08.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The input shaft bearing on the transmission is suspect. That is turning anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed. When you press the clutch the input shaft stops turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is assuming, based on your question that the noise is constant anytime the engine is running and the clutch petal is not pressed in. The only time the noise stops is when you push in the clutch, and which gear the transmission is in, makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your steering wheel vibration is likely caused by tires being out of balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T19:03:08.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T02:33:44.780" Score="1" ViewCount="6117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if I have the fan set to off and the temperature dial set all the way to cold, extremely hot air is coming from my vents into the cabin.  It seems to get worse at higher speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the A/C on, I get cold air, so that is working.  But when the fan is set to off there should not be any hot air coming in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be the problem, but I'm not 100% sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_xk_2400207.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.xkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_xk_2400207.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1117" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T18:33:48.963" Title="My 2007 Jeep Commander is blowing hot air into the cabin even though the temperature is set to cool" Tags="|jeep|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2094" CreationDate="2011-10-10T06:16:45.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An auto-electrician who installs alarms and remote unlocks would probably be able to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cars that do this already generally require you take the key out, too. I know high-end Subarus will re-lock a car within a minute or so if you don't open the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T06:16:45.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2097" CreationDate="2011-10-10T12:58:57.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the a/c off, the air coming into the cabin should be at outside temperatures unless something under the bonnet is heating it up. If your engine is running at correct speeds I'd be tempted to look at the airflow path and see if a hose is running along a radiator or resting on one of the hotter bits of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is your cabin heater switch broken? Perhaps it is stuck in the on position, no matter where your dial is turned to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T12:58:57.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-10-10T15:15:58.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a lot of work for little gain.  Consider doing slightly more work for much greater gains with something along the lines of an AEM EMS: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/plug-play-engine-management-systems-ems-10/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/plug-play-engine-management-systems-ems-10/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the only game in town, but it is probably the most popular.  Probably 90% of the standalone EMS installations I've seen are AEM...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously most of the kits are aimed at being plug &amp;amp; play into certain wiring harnesses, but muscle car guys do also use it.  Have to rig up your own harness and sensors, just like you would with any EMS installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T15:15:58.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T17:13:51.383" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light came up yesterday. Just brought it into Audi and they say I need to replace the thermostat with the note &quot;cooling system malfunction)&quot;. They're charging $600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this necessary to do now? I've got 70000 miles on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1118" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T08:03:53.227" Title="Audi 06 - Replace Thermostat" Tags="|cooling-system|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2108" CreationDate="2011-10-11T03:14:03.107" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into a career in auto body repair and was wondering what sort of skills / knowlege one might need to get into this field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T13:07:00.417" Title="What skills does one need to have to get started in auto body repair?" Tags="|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2105" CreationDate="2011-10-11T03:27:16.497" Score="2" ViewCount="90928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I think I pulled my handbrake maybe a little too hard to stop my self from rolling down a hill. The stick is now loose and it engages only when I pull it to the very top. I can pull it up without any effort until it reaches that engage point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, is it dangerous to continue using it this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: its a 97 Toyota Levin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2017-11-04T20:51:48.890" Title="Loose Handbrake?" Tags="|brakes|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2104" CreationDate="2011-10-11T07:59:22.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have either stretched the cable(s) or pulled them out of alignment, both of which can usually be solved by re-adjusting them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjuster can be found at the point the cables reach the lever, but depending on the design it may be inside the car (under some trim between the seats) or underneath - Your workshop manual should tell you which it is, and how far to adjust it. Generally you should aim for it to be fully engaged 3-4 clicks before the top of the lever's travel, but that does vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat is that if the cable has stretched too far, there will not be enough adjustment left to tighten it, in which case you will need new cables. Replacement is obviously a more complicated job than adjustment, but usually still within the scope of a fairly competant DIY mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger of driving a car with a non-functional handbrake is that you no longer have an emergency brake in the event of a service brake failure. Additionally, you won't be able to park on a slope! (unless it is a manual car and you park it in gear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-10-11T13:47:01.600" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T13:47:01.600" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2101" CreationDate="2011-10-11T08:03:53.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thermostat failing after that sort of mileage isn't that unusual. On an older car, I'd say do it yourself - new 'stats are dirt cheap and easy to test and replace. However, a newer car like that may have more complicated electronics connected to it that prevent you from doing that - Hopefully some of our modern car experts can help there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T08:03:53.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2104" CreationDate="2011-10-11T13:05:19.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to believe that you probably broke the cable on one side and that you're looking at a cable replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T13:05:19.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2103" CreationDate="2011-10-11T13:07:00.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patience and attention to detail would be the most important attributes.  The knowledge is secondary to having those particular character traits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T13:07:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4692" CreationDate="2011-10-11T16:37:16.937" Score="6" ViewCount="9534" Body="&lt;p&gt;In attempting to mount a motorcycle tire, I was unable to properly seat the beads. While the tire inflated and held air pressure, it failed to easily seat across identical points on both sidewalls. When I did eventually get the first, the second side continued to be troublesome. Before the first bead set, that area of the tire was hard to compress together. It seemed that the beads stayed close together there. Rotating the tire on the rim showed that it was the same spot on the tire that was always affected rather than a spot on the rim. The following were tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various inflation and deflation attempts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of Windex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moderate amounts of dish-soap-like tire lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spooning the tire completely off the rim, then back on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitting the inflated tire with a hammer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bouncing the tire off the ground when inflated and when deflated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving it sitting overnight with up to 70psi in the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One bead finally popped on at 80psi after the first 2 hours of effort -- and the shockwave made me temporarily deaf.  Since then, I kept it to 70psi or lower. I worked on it for a total of five hours. I finally gave up and brought it to a friend's shop. I believe he pumped it up to the full pressure of the shop compressor: over 130 psi. He also tried the hammer trick and some spray-on tire lube. We finally seated the second bead with 60psi and bearing grease on about half the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better approaches to this madness? A certain kind of tire lubricant that will works best? I know the catch with the grease is that it won't dry and will remain in a lubricating state until I clean the rim for mounting the next time -- though I really doubt that damn thing will actually spin on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T15:10:52.777" Title="Tubeless Bead Won't Seat" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-11T19:32:05.433" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an inexpensive autostart. Preferably something that can be installed easily without service help. Winter temperature is usually 5-15F during the day. I need a long-range autostart, preferrably 1-mile.&#xA;There are millions of autostarts out there and I'm not really sure what to look for while shopping. &#xA;What is a good brand? 2-way or 1-way? How hard is the installation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2001 Dodge stratus if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T03:27:35.230" Title="Remote autostart suggestion" Tags="|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2114" CreationDate="2011-10-11T21:52:17.217" Score="6" ViewCount="74486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier today while driving out East on Long Island I stopped to fill my tank with gas, and at the station, all the pumps had the usual Regular, Mid, Premium on one pump, but on the 2nd pump which typically holds Diesel, there was a sticker for Racing Fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The button for the fuel indicated a 100 Octane level, whereas the Premium was 93. Now although I've seen Sunoco do 95 Octane for maybe a dime more than the Premium fuel, the &quot;Racing Fuel&quot; at this station (LukOil) was $8.99 a gallon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought someone messed up the signage as a joke, but after putting my card in the pump to pay, the prices lit up and the 100 octane had $8.99 as the price. This also was the same at the other pumps, and on the major road sign when pulling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other fuels were from $3.65 to I think $3.90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeing this, my main question isn't to ask about Premium vs. Regular octane levels, but rather I'm curious about if such fuel is safe to use in your typical stock engine on a passenger car, and in addition whether this &quot;Racing Fuel&quot; has anything more than extra octane because I know Sunono Super Premium is typically 10-20 cents higher than premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is this a new major line of fuel that's going mainstream? I've only seen this once at the chain -- every other LukOil carries Diesel instead, so I'm not sure if this might be a regional offering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T03:10:04.613" Title="Racing Fuel (100 Octane Rating) - Better than Premium?" Tags="|fuel-system|performance|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2011-10-12T02:12:06.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The higher the octane, the less power per gram the gasoline contains.  Use the lowest octane your car needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;expanding on my answer:  It's safe...ish to use on stock engines.  The fuel burns cooler and may clog your catalytic converter.  You certainly won't see any better power or mileage from it, unless you're tuned for 100 octane.  It's sold solely for cars that are tuned for 100 octane: race cars and offroaders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastEditorUserId="554" LastEditDate="2011-10-12T04:52:10.810" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T04:52:10.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2011-10-12T08:45:58.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of performance Japanese cars are tuned for higher octane fuels from the factory, and will often pink badly on anything less than 97. I suspect the &quot;Racing Fuel&quot; will have other additives as well. If your car is tuned for 93 it would probably still run on 100, but certainly won't run well. (out of interest, what ratings are &quot;regular&quot; and &quot;mid&quot; - here we have &quot;premium&quot; at 95 and &quot;super&quot; at 97 or 99)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you will occasionally see &quot;Racing Fuel&quot; sold in petrol stations (usually near race tracks) is that a lot of series require competitors to use &quot;pump fuel&quot; - By making it available to the public it counts as pump fuel and so can be used in the races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T08:45:58.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2011-10-12T19:32:14.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/39/37&quot;&gt;this question on the benefits of premium fuel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1447/37&quot;&gt;this one on what you should choose&lt;/a&gt; for your car, as it all depends on your engine and its tuning - a high compression engine can usefully use higher octane petrol, but a lower compression engine will just run badly (or fail to run).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, some higher compression engines can downtune in order to cope with low octane petrol...some can't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Examples - My Impreza with PPP can downtune, but my Forester STi really can't - it is happiest up to 102 RON (UK version) but won't run on less than 99)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T19:32:14.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2011-10-13T01:02:29.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... I'm curious about if such fuel is safe to use in your typical&#xA;  stock engine on a passenger car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they've added lead, no.  I suspect that it's very unlikely that anyone is selling leaded gas at a common access pump (at the race track, maybe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no lead, then it's quite likely fine but a waste of money for most cars and drivers.  Cars (especially forced induction) can be tuned to utilize the lower probability of detonation inherent in high octane fuels to advance timing or increase boost in order to create much higher power outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, is this a new major line of fuel that's going mainstream?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds very unlikely in this economy.  What's more likely is that there is a population of racers or those who consider themselves such nearby.  Where is the nearest drag strip in relation to this station?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T01:02:29.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2874" CreationDate="2011-10-13T01:10:54.573" Score="2" ViewCount="5003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't open the trunk in my 2003 VW Jetta.  After taking apart the trunk hood, I've determined the problem is the same as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=81603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, but I cannot find the replacement part.  This thread mentions a part number for the trunk latch, but the latch isn't what's broken... the part that's broken is the black plastic &quot;arm&quot; (pointed to in the photo by the caption 'Broken arm').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching Google and various parts web sites has not gotten me anywhere.  What is this part called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owYZv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken trunk release &amp;#39;arm&amp;#39;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T19:35:03.743" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T15:57:49.507" Title="What is the name of this part of my trunk release in my 2003 Jetta?" Tags="|vw|part-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2110" CreationDate="2011-10-13T02:32:41.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newer cars have an Immobilizer which requires the key to be in the vehicle to start it.  The after-factory starters for them tend to require that you mount a key in the car to bypass the immobilizer, which of course makes the car easier to steal...  I would expect your Stratus to have an immobilizer, this page says they were equipped from 1998 onwards, but it sounds like it is an immobilizer bypass: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autofxonline.com/antitheft.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remote start bypass applications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want long range, I would think you want a two-way, because then you can be sure that it's started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you pretty much just need to pick one of the available remote kits.  I know there are a lot of them out there, but you just need to take a look at the ones with the features you want and pick.  :-)  Maybe try a search for what other Stratus owners have had luck with?  I liked the look of the results searching google for: stratus &quot;remote start&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't going to install it, you probably want to pick your installer, and they'll have ones that they prefer to work on and can make recommendations based on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, after looking at the available options, I decided to just forget the remote start.  I didn't like having to bypass the immobilizer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T02:32:41.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2120" CreationDate="2011-10-13T19:02:31.530" Score="9" ViewCount="27715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a small town, and the Gas station there has a bad reputation for gas quality. With rumors like peoples gas tanks freezing solid and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a quick, safe, cheap way to test for water content in gasoline so we can put the final word on these rumors? Our regular gasoline is E10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1124" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-10-15T20:49:33.533" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:46:55.383" Title="Test Gasoline for Water Content" Tags="|fuel-system|testing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2011-10-13T19:39:15.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water in fuel is easy to figure out. Put a sample (say 5 to 10 ounces) of the fuel into a clear glass container. Let it sit. If it separates into two layers, you have water in the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyLMk.png&quot; alt=&quot;demonstration of water and gasoline separating&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shown: an obviously contrived example of gasoline (10% ethanol) with approximately 2 ounces of water added - water has visibly sunk to the bottom of the jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T07:02:24.810" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T07:02:24.810" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2011-10-14T14:03:33.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little hard to tell from your picture but that appears to be a broken actuator or connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find you an exploded view of the trunk if that's not the correct part, though.  I searched at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parts.com&lt;/a&gt; for a 2003 Jetta and followed the trail to &quot;Main Categories | Trunk lid | Lid and components | Actuator, Connector&quot;.  If you click on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getPartLocator&amp;amp;siteid=2&amp;amp;chapter=&amp;amp;Sectionids=0,2822&amp;amp;groupid=51935&amp;amp;subgroupid=2378&amp;amp;componentid=4170&amp;amp;makeid=35&amp;amp;model=Jetta&amp;amp;year=2003&amp;amp;graphicID=9277660&amp;amp;callout=13&amp;amp;catalogid=2&amp;amp;displayCatalogid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Image # 13&lt;/a&gt; link next to the part, it will bring up the exploded view with the numbered parts labelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, all of those parts appear to be user serviceable.  If you can deduce which actual part number you need, they seem to be in stock.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T14:03:33.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3920" CreationDate="2011-10-15T00:01:03.377" Score="1" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I was doing some routine maintenance on my 1999 Toyota Avalon XLS and when I was checking the 95k mileage procedures one of the items which caught my eye was replacing the differential fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier this year I changed my transmission fluid as a fairly straight forward procedure (since the plug was right under the front of the car) however the Chilton manual I used only showed a picture of the V4 underbody vs. the V6, so when I went looking for the differential fluid I was left with the  impression that the V6 didn't have a separate tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I saw the differential matter again, I looked deeper into the issue and one of my relatives stumbled on a diagram showing that my 1999 Toyota Avalon XLS has the differential fluid plug right above the catalytic converter and that I'd need to remove that to change the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a logical reason for this, or is this a misreading of the pictures? As messing with the catalytic converter is a risky deal, I'm sure this is an error, but if so, I'm having trouble finding where the differential tank is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'll say that on forums I've seen a mix of people saying the XLS has a separate tank whereas some say it doesn't, but the Chilton book I use even says the V6 uses ATF Fluid in the differential tank, but for some reason they don't show the location, which is why I've been stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastEditorUserId="891" LastEditDate="2011-10-15T00:06:34.087" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:37:07.840" Title="Differential Fluid Plug Right Above Catalytic Converter? - '99 Avalon XLS" Tags="|automatic-transmission|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-15T00:20:24.007" Score="2" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda tech says vibration in steering wheel and generally unsmooth ride is due to 3 bent rims. I drive 40k miles a year on bad roads and hit potholes every other week, so I don't doubt him. OEM rims are over $200 apiece. I see rims on TireRack for about $100 apiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is are $100 rims just as stable/reliable/safe as $200 rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original rims are alloy so I understand I should stick with alloy and I understand I need to get the same size. I don't care about look, speed, weight, coolness or anything like that. I care about spending as little money as possible to get the vibration out of my steering wheel and get my smooth ride back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1126" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:17:33.577" Title="Rims for 2007 Honda Accord" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2123" CreationDate="2011-10-15T01:17:21.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While bent rims is one of the possible causes of a degraded ride quality, I would take the car to an independent tire shop to confirm the diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question of stability/reliability/safety:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any wheels you get from a reputable tire shop will meet your needs for any common driving (NOT racing, off-roading, etc...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe buying steel (non-alloy) wheels will adversely affect any performance characteristics of your vehicle and you could potentially save a good bit of money not getting the alloy wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:17:21.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2123" CreationDate="2011-10-15T01:17:33.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem with rims is that you get what you pay for them - the cheap rims might turn out to be easter egg shaped (has happened before) and they might not last as long on bad roads as the OEM ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd look into would be to find the smallest rims that you can fit (ie, if you can fit, say, 15&quot;, 16&quot; or 17&quot; I'd get 15s) and go for tires with higher profile, in other words higher sidewalls. The higher sidewalls tend to absorb some of the bumps in the road and don't transmit them through to the rim, thus preserving your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I'd try to get a second opinion on how bent the rims are before I'd splurge on rims and potentially tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T01:17:33.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2136" CreationDate="2011-10-15T13:09:44.333" Score="2" ViewCount="10035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to sell my old alloy wheels, and I need to know a few crucial sizes (like the bolt diameter and width) to put up an ad. Unfortunately I cannot make heads or tails of these numbers. Here's all that I found written on them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C24B6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  LK 108&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  M 0926 A J&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  7.0JX16H2   A706&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  MIC ZCW&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ET 45 X P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do know about them is that they are 16&quot; in diameter and had 205/55R16 tires on them beforehand. They also use 5 bolts (nuts? logs? not sure on the difference - I'm not a native English speaker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to google, but to no avail. I also made pictures of them and all of the markings are visible there (at least in the full-sized originals). If you wish, you can look at them &lt;a href=&quot;http://valts.21.lv/problem/disk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1128" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T11:49:02.990" Title="What do these wheel markings mean?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2133" CreationDate="2011-10-15T19:41:36.883" Score="5" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Mazda Protege LX and the radio has been dead for a while, so I want to replace it. The installation/removal looks pretty simple. How to I find a radio that will work as a replacement radio? Something I can order online is preferable, but maybe that isn't possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T21:16:23.977" Title="How do I find a replacement radio?" Tags="|parts|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2129" CreationDate="2011-10-15T20:31:54.340" Score="4" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2003 Honda Oddessy. We had the brakes replaced by a friend of my dad's, but a week after replacing them, they squeaked terribly. They make much less noise now, but they are still pretty squeaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we have any options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1129" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T13:39:53.260" Title="Brakes are Squeaking" Tags="|honda|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2128" CreationDate="2011-10-16T07:33:42.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they were metallic or semi-metallic pads they could just be squeaky.  Also if the installer did not apply grease behind the pads that could cause squeeking. It's not a problem, just really annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T07:33:42.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-16T16:15:59.807" Score="3" ViewCount="4022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, and sometimes(not always) it will rev up to about 1700-2000 RPM while idling.  It normally idles at about 900 RPM once it warms up.  I just changed the oil &amp;amp; air filters, so I don't think they're part of the problem.  It has an automatic transmission, 4 cylinder engine, about 55,000 miles.  Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1130" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T20:39:22.730" Title="Engine revs up while idling" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-10-16T20:39:22.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a 2001 Hyundai Tiburon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start the car and it would rev up on the initial start, lower to ~800 rpm then begin a process of revving up to ~2000 rpm and back down to ~800 rpm about every 5-8 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;800-900 rpm was the normal idle range for that car.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem wouldn't occur every time, but often enough that it was aggravating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem ended up being the Mass Airflow Sensor.  It was either sending bad readings or no readings at all so the ECU did not know how much air the engine was taking in causing the rev cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T20:39:22.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2128" CreationDate="2011-10-16T20:51:14.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they squeal when you are using the brakes, unfortunately your only option is to take the brake pads back off and apply disk brake quiet to the &lt;strong&gt;back&lt;/strong&gt; of the pads. It's not difficult to do at all, and it's not very expensive ($2 - $3). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pick it up at any parts store, or even on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HBGH3G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDKxd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It basically insulates the back of the pad (metal) from the caliper (metal) and prevents the transmission of vibration between the two, otherwise the caliper works like a tuning fork and amplifies the sound. And irritating the crap of of you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T20:51:14.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2127" CreationDate="2011-10-16T21:16:23.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield.com&lt;/a&gt;, you can put in your make model and see many radios that will fit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/g_300/Car-Receivers.html?tp=5684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the what the search turned up when I put in your car info.&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;It looks like you have a standard DIN radio, so any standard DIN radio will fit without an adapter kit. You will need a special tool like the one pictured below to remove the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq1dV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of radio removal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1cmi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to get a vehicle specific wiring harness adapter &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120707901/Ford-Mazda-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like the one pictured below&lt;/a&gt; so you can simply plug the aftermarket radio into the factory harness. &lt;strong&gt;NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; cut and splice the wires into the main harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnuSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above is assuming you want an aftermarket radio for the replacement. If you want a factory replacement I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carpart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carpart.com&lt;/a&gt; although my search doesn't pull up any radios for your vehicle. You can also check local salvage yards, and other online salvage sites for a used radio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T21:16:23.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2137" CreationDate="2011-10-17T00:13:58.833" Score="12" ViewCount="9697" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drain oil, add new oil... find oil everywhere. It spills, the funnel is full of it when I'm done and drips forever, and I'm pouring kitty litter all over the driveway. If I had a proper garage this would be simple, but as a shade-tree guy, I never quite figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any answers about things like draining the oil filter, containing all the oil, what to do with my oil-soaked rags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T00:10:39.907" Title="Tips for an oil change at home: cleanliness and disposal?" Tags="|oil-change|cleaning|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2011-10-17T01:30:20.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a fellow driveway warrior I feel your pain. I have a good experience with getting a large diameter oil container. If your car has its oil filter in a tough location you are just gonna have to live with some mess. But large easy to grab container helps. &#xA;If I wanted to spend the cash I would shoot for a remote oil filter. A lot of BMW's have their oil filters in a nice spot up front angled vertically which makes that clean. &#xA;As for the funnel  just get good at pouring from the bottle. That's what I do. Or use a disposable paper funnel. &#xA;Hope that answer helps : )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T01:30:20.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2011-10-17T11:49:02.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know all of those, but the key ones are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108 will be the PCD (pitch circle diameter - the distance between the bolt holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.0Jx16 will be the size - 7&quot; wide by 16&quot; diameter. H2 means it is of a double hump design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ET 45 X P will be the offset - how far in or out the wheel sits in relation toh the hub. In this case it will be 45mm, and I'd expect the P to be positive, i.e. the wheel is inset towards the centre of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This Page&lt;/a&gt; on the car bibles website explains it in much more detail than I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T11:49:02.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:09:47.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil changes are a boring job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Hasen says, a larger size oil catch pan is the only real solution. Before you start, try and estimate the direction of flow. If the drain plug is on the side of the sump (oil pan), the oil will begin to flow horizontally, curving down with gravity, and hit the ground around 9-12&quot; out from the hole - assuming you're worknig with the car on stands around 18&quot; - 2' above the ground. As the pressure (and thus flow rate) drops, the point of impact will move back towards a point vertically below the hole. Therefore, you need to make sure your catch pan covers all of this area (or move it as the flow lessens if you have a small one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drain the oil with the engine warm, but not hot, as this helps it to flow better, and takes more sediment/gunk with it. But be careful, otherwise you'll get hot oil down your arm as you withdraw the drain plug...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually then leave it for half an hour or so to drain fully before removing the drain pan and replacing the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it has fully drained, put the catch pan under the filter and remove it carefully, then pour the oil into the catch pan. I then leave the filter face-down in the drain pan for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to sort the funnel is to pour slower and more carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top Tip: Check the new filter is on properly before pouring a gallon of oil in the top - a mistake you only make once!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disposal: In the UK the local councils have facilities for disposal of engine oil at their waste disposal sites, so I decant the old oil into the can the new oil came in, then put the old filter (and rags) face-up in the box the new one came in, double-wrap it in plastic bags, then take the lot to the council site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:09:47.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2150" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:05:29.903" Score="6" ViewCount="8008" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlights on my car are very dim. When on the normal setting they only illuminate around 2-3 seconds down the road @ about 55mph. The high beams are brighter, but are still very dim. If I have my high beams on and a car is behind me with their high beams off their lights will outshine mine. What can I do to get brighter headlights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background on what I've tried:&#xA;I replaced one of the casings for the lights (due to an accident with a deer, which I partly blame on my headlights being so dim). I thought the new casing might make some difference as it was much more clear, but it made none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also replaced the bulbs with ones that claim to be the brightest available but there is no noticeable difference. Unfortunately I don't recall the name and number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 1994 940 Volvo, so it may be due to the age of something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T15:25:21.317" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T15:25:21.317" Title="Brightening dim headlights" Tags="|volvo|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2128" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:39:53.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might want to check and make sure that the proper anti-squeal shims were installed too.  It's not uncommon for people to throw them out thinking they were part of the old brakes (and they don't come with the brake pads, you have to buy them separately).  If the old ones were reused, they simply could be beyond their service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T13:39:53.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2138" CreationDate="2011-10-17T16:48:13.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the lenses become cloudy? This can happen over time and you can buy kits to polish and clear them up. If they're not cloudy, check how many volts are getting to the lights themselves with a volt meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the circuit in your car works, but if it doesn't use relays to power the lights, your light switch can be absorbing some of the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T16:48:13.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2138" CreationDate="2011-10-18T10:15:13.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old, tired wiring will often cause dim headlamps as halogen bulbs are very sensitive to low voltages. As Jaime says, a lot of older cars didn't have relayed headlamps (although I would have expected Volvo to do so), so if you've not got them, the full current for the lamps is runnning through the entire wiring system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to test this is to check the voltage at the connector that goes to the back of the lamp - 13.5V will get the highest brightness, and it drops off sharply as the voltage drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, it is worth adding a relay as close to the lamps as possible (so the full current has the shortest path). Headlamp relay kits can be purchased from companies such as ring, and will come with full instructions, but in general the principle is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new wire from battery - fuse - relay power feed (usually labelled 30)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;existing feed from switch to relay input (86)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new wire from relay to ground (85)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;existing wire from relay output to headlamps (87)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use two relays, one for main and one for dip, and mount them in a waterproof location otherwise they will corrode internally (the cheapest solution I've seen for that is a plastic takeawy container bolted to the inner wing!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rallylights.com/hella/BulbHelp.aspx&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; gives some numbers and more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T10:15:13.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-18T14:45:58.060" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old work car ('04 Intrepid) and I'd like to connect my MP3 device to the car stereo so I can listen to Podcasts. However, since it is an old work car I don't necessarily want to spend a ton of money. I am not against MacGuyver-ey solutions, either (within reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried an FM transmitter and it didn't work very well. There are no auxiliary inputs, and no tape deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try to keep it at about the $50 price range (if possible). I am not a mechanic, but I do have PC repair experience so it's not beyond the realm of possibility for me to do some work myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T10:20:54.803" Title="Options to cheaply connect MP3 device to car stereo" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-10-18T17:30:23.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your headunit have some sort of RCA input?  If so you could get an RCA to 3.5MM jack to plug into your MP3 headphone jack.  If not, you're SOL because that and the options you listed are the only ones.  If it doesn't have an RCA out, which I think falls in to your lack of Auxilliary inputs, your only option is to buy a new headunit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T17:30:23.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2011-10-19T03:13:03.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get into the car, turn the key to on position but do not start the car.  While everything is quite, do you hear whirling sound. If you do, that's your fuel pump creating fuel pressure.  If you do not hear the pump making the noise, then as up_the_irons pointed out, it could be the relay (@up, is that what you meant by &quot;main relay&quot; or do those civic's have something else?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause is leaky injectors. I had an 89 acura integra (i.e. rebadged honda) and it had both bad relay and bad injectors.  Relay was easy to identify.  Injectors took me a little while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But symptoms were kinda what you describe.  If the car sits overnight, it would start fine. If I just drove it, it would start fine. But if I left it sitting for few hours it was very hard to start it. Explanation I eventually came across was that injectors leak while engine is off because fuel lines are still pressurized.  If you just drove, they haven't leaked enough to flood cylinders.  If the car sits for a long time, the gas will drip out past the compression rings into your oil.  But at just the right time interval, you end up with flooded cylinders and a car that's really hard to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a junk yard, bought another set of injectors, shipped them out to be professionally cleaned/calibrated, then swapped them in and never had tough start problem ever again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T03:13:03.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-10-19T06:59:06.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not terribly concerned about audio quality, get a cheap head unit off eBay or amazon that has an auxiliary input..  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_n_0?rh=n:172282,k:car+stereo,n:!493964,n:3248684011,n:1077068,n:226184,n:10980601&amp;amp;bbn=226184&amp;amp;keywords=car+stereo&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1319007483&amp;amp;rnid=226184#/ref=sr_nr_p_36_0?rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Acar+stereo%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A3248684011%2Cn%3A1077068%2Cn%3A226184%2Cn%3A10980601%2Cp_36%3A1253503011&amp;amp;bbn=10980601&amp;amp;keywords=car+stereo&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1319007487&amp;amp;rnid=386442011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;There are several options  under $25 on amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll likely need a wiring harness, as well, but it looks like that runs only about $2.85 on amazon for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T10:20:54.803" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T10:20:54.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2027" CreationDate="2011-10-19T11:00:35.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you remove the passenger side foot kick panel covering the ECU you will see it there.  On the 97 it is the blue 2 pin plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T11:00:35.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-10-19T13:22:03.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure why you say the FM transmitter didn't work well. I tried this transmitter and there were no troubles at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1-0-lcd-car-mp3-player-fm-transmitter-with-ir-remote-controller-black-2-5mm-audio-sd-usb-dc12v-48599?r=57754678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FM Transmitter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1144" LastEditorUserId="1144" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T13:27:36.633" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T13:27:36.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2138" CreationDate="2011-10-19T13:27:03.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can move to HID lamps it will solve your problem. You might see this observation because of a weak battery. But the HID lamps will draw lower current than conventional lamps so it should give better light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/c/hid-headlamp-kits-711?r=57754678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheap HID Kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1144" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T13:27:03.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2138" CreationDate="2011-10-19T15:17:04.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having owned several of that generation Volvo ('93 965, '94 964, '94 965), I will start by saying &quot;The US delivery Volvo headlights of that era are terrible!&quot;  The light does not go where it needs to go, and even adding more light will not help that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had some success putting the Sylvania XS bulbs in. They have a slightly different spectrum from normal halogen bulbs, but they are &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; the blue headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of converting to HID, you will probably end up spending a lot of money and still not have light where you want/need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of other solutions: European Delivery cars had much better headlights.  It's not a cheap conversion, but it can be done.  (I am not saying anything about US street legality here.)  The &quot;prize&quot; lights are the 3 bulb units from the Euro 960 -- separate low, high and fog beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to add auxiliary lights. At first it may seem a fairly high cost, but when you realize that one set can easily outlive several cars, it really isn't that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, you might want to read the series of articles I wrote for the Volvo Club of America's &lt;em&gt;Rolling&lt;/em&gt; Magazine.  It was called &quot;Let There Be Light&quot;, and can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.snowtire.info/forum/dload.php?action=category&amp;amp;cat_id=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Snow Tire FAQ website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T15:17:04.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2011-10-19T15:20:51.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disposal: I cannot speak for your region (ME, so I guess Maine), but here I can dispose used oil to Canadian Tire(Sears-like store) stores where they have containers. In my town, they have what they call &quot;eco-center&quot;, where citizens can dispose used oil and any others waste. Check in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T15:20:51.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2464" CreationDate="2011-10-19T15:58:59.290" Score="3" ViewCount="91944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Jetta TDI.  I drove it last night with no problem.  This morning I cannot start the car.  I popped the hood, and discovered air in the fuel line between the fuel filter and injection pump.  In fact, I don't see any fuel in there at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I've done to the car recently was have an oil change, about a week ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't see any sign of fuel on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T08:14:34.100" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T07:22:00.890" Title="What is causing air in my fuel line?" Tags="|diesel|fuel-line|tdi|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2159" CreationDate="2011-10-19T18:59:37.820" Score="3" ViewCount="2552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a blank replacement key for my 2005 Toyota Corolla and will have a locksmith cut it to match the existing master key.   How to I program the car to recognize the new key for starting the ignition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T16:50:29.060" Title="How do I program a key for a 2005 Toyota Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:01:40.797" Score="3" ViewCount="6944" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has become very difficult to shift into 1st gear on my 1995 VW Golf.  Pushing the shifter fully left and then forward now puts the transmission into 3rd.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:41:11.637" Title="Difficulty shifting into first gear on 1995 VW Golf" Tags="|transmission|vw|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:07:28.667" Score="5" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch pedal on my 1995 VW Golf 'sticks' in the half-way-depressed position after I release my foot from the pedal.  I believe that the clutch is fully engaged (unclutched) at this point, but a little nudge from underneath is necessary for the pedal to spring to its fully undepressed position.  How should this be fixed?  Maybe just a little WD-40?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T16:19:01.357" Title="Clutch pedal on 1995 VW Golf is sticking" Tags="|clutch|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:42:36.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the clutch cable operated or hydraulic?  On hydraulic clutches that's a common symptom of a failing master and/or slave cylinder(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T19:42:36.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2152" CreationDate="2011-10-20T12:16:27.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pinhole leaks in the low-pressure lines from the tank to the pump can cause this - the pump sucks in air through the hole instead of fuel from the tank. Check the condition of all the fuel lines, and the connections between rubber flexis and solid lines. Check any seals on the filter for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T12:16:27.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2154" CreationDate="2011-10-20T12:25:42.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Flimzy's comment suggests, many transverse-engined FWD cars, including Volkswagens, use a series of ball-joints with plastic bushes in their gear linkages, and these can fail over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect you will find two sets of linkages - one for the side-to-side movement of the gearstick, and one for the fore-and-aft. I suspect it will be the former that has failed - do you get fifth when you try to engage third and fourth instead of second? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common failnig on Peugeots from the late 80s and early 90s, we used to fix it by looping zip-ties around each bar of the linkage just before the ball-joint to tie them together and stop the ball-joints popping apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, less likely, possibility is a failed gearbox mount. This would cause the gearbox to drop slightly and thus throw the linkages out of alignment. I suspect you'd see other symptoms if that was the case however!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T12:25:42.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2011-10-20T16:50:29.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand this key is not programmable without the Toyota scan tools so you may have to take it to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TYPE 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TOYOTA 4Runner 2003 2004 2005 Avalon   2005 Camry   2004 2005 2006&#xA;  2007 Corolla  2005 Highlander 2004 2005 Land Cruiser 2003 2004 2005 &#xA;  Prius  2004 Sienna 2004 Solara 2004 Tacoma 2005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can not program in this key yourself. You need to take your car&#xA;  and your key to either the dealer or to a local locksmith that has the&#xA;  Toyota key programming software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keymam.com/news_view.asp?newsid=27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SOURCE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1013" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T16:50:29.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:19:24.910" Score="2" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;hey i am trying to find a replacement hood for my 2004 ford focus hatchback, and from what i can tell every focus model from 2000 to 2004 will fit, but i dont want to drive 2 hours to pick up a used hood and find out it wont fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you know, that would be helpful, or if you could direct me to the correct website to find something like that out, that would be helpful as well. thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1145" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:39:13.633" Title="does a 2004 ford focus sedan hood fit on the hatchback model?" Tags="|ford|focus|hood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2170" CreationDate="2011-10-20T22:24:04.223" Score="11" ViewCount="21921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading a thread in a car forum where someone wrote: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The lower the RPM, the less fuel you use, the less strain you put on everything..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another person then replied, stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not true. If your pulling high gears and making the engine work more&#xA;  to go how you want your using more gas. As well as putting more strain&#xA;  on the car. By wanting more from the car when it is out of its power&#xA;  your forcing the injectors to open more thus burning more gas. Please&#xA;  don't mislead anyone if your not sure. However, waiting until redline&#xA;  to shift isn't ideal either. Shifting at 3/4 or so of the torque curve&#xA;  is optimal for gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who is correct?&lt;/strong&gt; Is it more gas efficient to to shift at lower RPMs rather than high RPM? Would something like this vary great from car to car, model to model, or would it be a general rule for all standard engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1146" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T08:10:44.380" Title="Fuel efficiency and Shifting/RPM" Tags="|fuel-consumption|shifting|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2011-10-20T23:35:31.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem.. but when i shoved the gear shifter into reverse hard and shook it hard it flashed. So what i had to do was take my dremmel and grind the part of the switch base below the threads down to allow the threads to screw further into the transmition. I took off about an 1/8 of an inch and Now everything works as advertised.. :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1147" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T23:35:31.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-10-21T05:20:44.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention if the car has a CD or tape head unit - I've had reasonable success with tape adapters in our older cars that still have tape drives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T05:20:44.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2011-10-21T13:55:40.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You want the largest possible throttle opening (on naturally aspirated cars anyways) to reduce the vacuum and hence pumping losses, however, you don't want to force the computer out of closed-loop mode...  So, roughly 50-75% throttle depending on the vehicle (assuming manual transmission as an automatic will probably grab a less efficient gear in those circumstances).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You want the RPMs as low as possible as it truly is RPMs that really burn fuel (frictional losses with higher RPMs).  However, if the RPMs are too low, then you don't get the benefit of timing advance...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &quot;it depends&quot; on naturally aspirated manuals.  They give you the most control of how to optimize your fuel usage, but you need to know your specific car.  :-)  The easiest car to optimize for is the turbo automatic...  Drive as slow as possible and hope for the best since you don't really have much control beyond that...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T13:33:14.033" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T13:33:14.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2169" CreationDate="2011-10-21T15:35:42.290" Score="5" ViewCount="3586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I start the fan blower on my 99 VW gti after the car's been sitting overnight, I get this really nasty pungent disease kinda smell out of the vents. I open the windows and it blows away, and it's fine after the first 30 seconds or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to replace the cabin air filter. Yes, after 12 years. So I figure while I have it opened up, maybe I should spray some disinfectant or something else in there while I've got it all accessible. Good idea? Bad idea? Suggestions as to what disinfectant or anti bacterial spray I should or shouldn't use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:01:19.413" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:01:19.413" Title="Anything I should/can spray in the ductwork while I'm replacing the cabin air filter?" Tags="|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1982" CreationDate="2011-10-21T16:20:08.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isn't there a law that says they have to prove your modification is what actually broke the component for them to void the warranty? Just installing a chip won't shouldn't void anything. Call Jet and talk to them, they should know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T16:20:08.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2160" CreationDate="2011-10-21T16:21:19.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The fronts of those cars are all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T16:21:19.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2160" CreationDate="2011-10-21T16:48:05.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are getting the hood from a savage yard and they say it will fit it's a pretty safe bet. They use an interchange guide,  Holander for example that gives them all of that information.  You can also check car-part.com I believe they will give you the interchange information and you might even find a better price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T17:39:13.633" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:39:13.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2011-10-21T17:14:00.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it wouldn't hurt to spray some Lysol into the intake.  I wouldn't spray it into the filter itself, though, since those are generally paper and would likely dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, I would strongly recommend running the heater for quite a while.  If you get the system nice and hot, you will kill off quite a lot of the more horrible smelling mildew and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've talked about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/search?q=air%20duct%20smell&quot;&gt;smells you can get in your ducts&lt;/a&gt; before but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/116/why-does-my-a-c-blow-foul-smelling-air-when-it-first-turns-on/146#146&quot;&gt;Slink's answer&lt;/a&gt; nicely summarizes the high points of most suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:14:00.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2011-10-21T17:29:32.630" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to define your terms.  Efficiency could mean at least four things in this context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Least fuel consumed per hour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most mileage covered per unit of fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most kinetic energy created per unit of fuel consumed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most acceleration created per second.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These four choices often destructively interfere with each other.  Hitting some of the high points of each of the above meanings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High gears usually mean lower revs meaning lower amounts of fuel injected on average.  The squirts of fuel might change in size depending on throttle position but those squirts happen less often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage per fuel units is a multivariate equation in which aerodynamic drag starts to dominate at higher highway speeds.  Even so, if you are driving very slowly, you will also see lower mileage than the optimum as you just aren't covering much linear distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal combustion engines almost always have a peak energy output point where they are best able to combine fuel and air and transform that into kinetic energy.  This is usually the torque peak of the engine.  Note: peak torque also means near peak fuel consumption per second.  Also remember that an engine's torque peak has nothing to do with the current gear selection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peak acceleration is likewise tied to the torque peak but also requires proper gear selection and involves aerodynamic and static drag factors.  Best acceleration from a stop will use the lowest gear.  At speed, low gears will not be a choice as you'd have to rev the engine past its physical limitations, which is one of the many reasons why your acceleration drops off as speed increases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all factors are more complicated than can be addressed in a single page.  For example, my turbo standard transmission car injects even more fuel than you'd expect at its torque peak.  The engine computer is using that extra fuel to cool the higher compression fuel-air mixture in order to avoid premature detonation.  This allows the car to run higher boost but isn't the greatest for fuel economy....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:29:32.630" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1982" CreationDate="2011-10-21T17:36:39.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm generally suspicious of get rich quick schemes.  I've been holding off on chip-like improvements to my car until I'm really convinced that the software is all there and it's a 2004 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, remember that even a small turbo motor will benefit from attention to the intake and exhaust components.  Remember that the engine is an air pump: if you can improve its ability to pump that air, it will reward you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, changes to intakes and exhausts generally cost more money that popping in a new chip.  That said, I'm a sincere advocate that wrenching is more fun than popping in the latest chip.  Besides, a better intake and exhaust path will almost certainly mean that the better ECU program (when you get it) will have a more efficient overall system to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T17:36:39.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2190" CreationDate="2011-10-22T18:49:16.680" Score="2" ViewCount="6339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted to remove the drums on my wifes 98 jeep cherokee sport but in attempting to remove the drum, the brake shoes also were coming off and as a result the retaining pins popped out. I was able to just push everything back together/on, but the pins wont go back in the back. Is it necessary for those pins to be there? What would happen if i drove without them? I dont really understand drum brakes, so please go easy with the explanation, but from this picture it looks like its necessary that those pins are there (its connected to the hold down springs and retainers, which i assume keeps the shoe from contacting the drum??)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Drum_Brake_Service/Drum_Brake_Hardware_10_small.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Drum_Brake_Service/Drum_Brake_Hardware_10_small.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T19:18:21.753" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:49:46.447" Title="What to do about snapped out retaining pins?" Tags="|brakes|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2172" CreationDate="2011-10-22T19:17:56.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important Caveat:&lt;/strong&gt; Seeking information for future reference is admirable but it sounds like your wife's car now has at least one non-functional brake.  You may be in a position where professional technical help is advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your terms and the picture don't quite match.  Are you talking about the &quot;Holddown pins&quot; in the picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, yes, it appears that those pins are a critical component.  Those pins pretty clearly provide the lower fixed point on each shoe.  The anchor pin on the top secures the return springs (pulling the drums back when you aren't braking).  Without those lower holddown pins, it appears that the shoes would quickly be forced out of alignment (and perhaps the wheel) after one or two brake pedal applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Again:&lt;/strong&gt; At this point, I would recommend involving a technician if for no other reason than you could ask them, &quot;What went wrong here and how can I avoid that in the future?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T19:17:56.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2011-10-23T00:18:04.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically,  yes lower rpms == lower consumption but there is a caveat  Looking at what your throttle is doing, if you are at low rpm in a high gear but your foot is on the throttle heavy then there is more air coming in and at low rpm valves are open longer so the computer responds with the right amount of fuel for the air you are sucking up with the wide open throttle. &#xA;You want to get your rpms low but not at the cost of having to open up the throttle. So there is a limit.  So pick the highest gearing that a light throttle can handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T00:18:04.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-23T04:21:18.167" Score="2" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light came on yesterday.  with that another little light that says &quot;check fuel cap&quot; also lights up but only stays on for about a second or two.  I have never noticed this before so could this be the reason my check engine light came on?  I need a new fuel cap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1151" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T12:35:23.310" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T12:35:23.310" Title="2004 ford crown victoria - Fuel Cap pressure" Tags="|cel|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2011-10-23T14:34:48.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either a new fuel cap or you have an air leak somewhere in the system. Best to see what the code is first. The computer checks the pressure of the evaporative emissions  system and if it can't hold pressure a code is triggered. Either your cap is bad, a seal is bad/disconnected, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1153" LastEditorUserId="1153" LastEditDate="2011-10-23T14:44:49.030" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T14:44:49.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1867" CreationDate="2011-10-23T14:43:55.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the donut shaped strut rod bushings that go into the control arm. They look like rubber donuts. Have someone sit in the car and drive it back back and forth when they hit the brake. If the bushings are bad you will see the wheel actually move when you hit the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly check the ball joints. &lt;strong&gt;jack up the control arm&lt;/strong&gt; so the weight of car rests on it and check for any play. They are known to fail on these cars. You should replace the entire arm if that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1153" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T14:43:55.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2332" CreationDate="2011-10-23T17:37:28.503" Score="3" ViewCount="33275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in the northern part of North America, we're about to start winter, so off come the mags with the summer tires, and on go the steel wheels with the winter tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to use steel lug nuts with the steel wheels?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T09:09:04.730" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T11:38:24.113" Title="Do I need steel lugnuts when using steel wheels" Tags="|wheels|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2189" CreationDate="2011-10-24T12:14:14.483" Score="3" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;As winter and cold temperature are coming soon, I was looking at getting a block heater and I came across a thread talking about installing a lower radiator hose heater. Does anyone have one installed? Is it working as good as a block heater? I'm thinking about installing one on my Toyota Land Cruiser 87 (Diesel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/coolant-flush-lower-radiator-hose-heater-writeup-326995/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;installation on a Jeep&lt;/a&gt;, if you want to know what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:02:50.153" Title="Lower radiator hose heater. Is it worth it?" Tags="|toyota|radiator|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2178" CreationDate="2011-10-24T12:31:58.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, yes. It depends on the shape of the seat (i.e. the bit of the wheel the nut grips against). Steel wheels will always have a tapered nut seat, wheras alloys often have a squared-off one. You might be lucky and find your alloys have the same angle of taper, obviously it depends on the design of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T12:31:58.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2187" CreationDate="2011-10-24T13:49:42.360" Score="4" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;While replacing my brakes this weekend I saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wZE6b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stabilizer bar?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that it is the stabilizer bar. It is attached further back in the frame or axle (can't remember for sure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard would this be to replace it myself? It looks like just two bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a '98 Chevy Malibu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:10:23.560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T04:10:23.560" Title="I know this isn't good, but what is it and how hard is it to replace?" Tags="|chevrolet|part-identification|n-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2183" CreationDate="2011-10-24T13:54:54.583" Score="4" ViewCount="16716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my brake pads this weekend and now my brakes seems like they are much softer than before. I can easily put the brake to the floor. The vehicle is a '98 Chevy Malibu. I have seen some references to bleeding the brakes. Could that be it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: One other question I just thought of. Can the reservoir be too full? Could that cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:13:08.597" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T10:49:33.323" Title="What should I look at when my brakes are soft?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|n-body|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2011-10-24T14:30:31.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleeding the brake will remove air in your brakes line. If you only replace the pads without disconnecting any brake lines, no air should have entered the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, since you have played with your brakes, and with the symptoms you have, you should bleed the brakes to remove any air. Air in the brake line can make the pedal softer and can also prevent you from braking. I've changed my brakes (pads, rotors and calipers) this summer and had a soft pedal and re-bleeding the brake solved my issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if your brake line are old they can bulge under the brake fluid pressure, which can also create the soft pedal as you described. Then you can change your brake lines and even switch them to stainless steel lines that won't bulge, but are way more expensive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T13:12:55.430" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:12:55.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2185" CreationDate="2011-10-24T14:45:56.970" Score="5" ViewCount="13290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I am stuck doing this sort of stuff by myself and I don't trust my kids (4 and 7) yet to help me with this. Any tricks to doing this or is this really a 2-man job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T01:02:23.323" Title="Is there a trick for doing bleeding the lines by yourself?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2011-10-24T15:11:00.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my personnal experience, it's a 2 man job if you want to do it right. I did not trust any one men bleeder kit on the market. But other can say otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only trick I've seen that may work is to use speed bleeder, which have a valve that automatically lock that prevent any air to get into your system. I did not try it myself. It's looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjg0Q.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T15:11:00.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2011-10-24T16:58:41.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is the sway bar. There are usually just a couple of bushings (one per side) that attach it to the frame and then however they connect it to the suspension. Shouldn't be hard to replace at all, though monkeying it around to get it in and out may be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T09:09:38.163" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T09:09:38.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2178" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:01:26.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most aluminum wheels these days have the same seat taper as steel wheels. It's just the older (way older) aluminum wheels that use the shank lug nuts. The thickness of the wheel may be different as well. For steel wheels I would just use the open end tapered variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:01:26.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:02:50.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How cold is it where you are? A lower radiator hose wouldn't do much for you as it doesn't hold very much water and water tends to not change temperature easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:02:50.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2172" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:49:46.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that I needed the retaining pins. The reason I couldn't get the drum off was I had turn the adjuster to bring the shoes in a tad to make the drum easier to take off (they should have come off without having to do that, but there was probably a rust ring around the inside of the drum). Once I did that, the drum came off relatively easy and I was able to replace the hardware (including the holddown pins and the 'caps' that they clip into). Involving a friend who had done plenty of drum brakes helped, in addition to comparing against the other drum brake when we had it assembled. The brakes, including parking brake are fully functional and working great now. Thank you for your feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:49:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2011-10-24T19:22:27.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power bleeders work great.  I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.motiveproducts.com/bleeders-c15.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motive's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjJMY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a variety of caps to fit most master cylinders.  Attach and pump up to pressure.  Then crawl under your car and let loose on the bleeder.  You can see the air bubbles as it comes out, you can also usually tell the difference in color between the old fluid and the new fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions will say to put brake fluid in the tank of the bleeder.  Personally, I do not.  But I am careful to check my master cylinder reservoir often so that it does not go empty.  This keeps my power bleeder tank in new condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum bleeders, like the MityVac, do not work nearly as well in my opinion.  I also do not like the speed bleeders, as I have read of &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; people having problems with them failing over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, the first time I used the Motive Power Bleeder I knew I had found what it took to reliably and confidently do a brake bleed by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T19:22:27.863" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2011-10-24T19:34:08.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your fluid level.  If it is abnormally low, you may have a leak.  Also, if the reservoir is completely empty, you may have to follow special procedures to bleed your master cylinder and/or ABS pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to bleed your brake system until you have &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; replaced the old fluid with new fluid.  If you routinely bleed and maintain your brakes, this is not always necessary.  But if you do not know the last time your fluid has been &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; flushed, I recommend this highly.  Brake fluid is cheap and a power bleeder makes the job easy (I think I answered another question of yours regarding power bleeders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While bleeding check for any leaks around the lines and calipers.  You can also pull the calipers off and check your pad wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, after bleeding, the pedal is still soft - I'll just say I've had this scenario on 3 different vehicles and on all 3 it turned out to be the master cylinder.  I can't tell you how to tell for sure if this is it.  I simply swapped it as the next step after a couple of bleeds failed to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T19:34:08.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2182" CreationDate="2011-10-24T21:25:09.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the other answers cover bleeding well, however if you didn't open the hydraulic system (other than the master cylinder cap) then I doubt it's air in the line. My answer assumes a couple of things, you replaced the front pads and you did not turn (resurface) the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During normal brake operation the rotors don't wear evenly, they may be thinner on the outside (farthest from center) than on the inside for example, or other irregularities. Note I am not talking about &quot;warped&quot; as that would cause a vibration when braking. When you install new pads that have a nice flat surface and the rotors aren't because they haven't been turned the brake pedal will feel spongy. This is because not all of the pad is in contact with the rotor. This will eventually go away as the pad wears and all of the pad comes in contact with the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause could be not burnishing the new pads. You should always burnish brakes after every brake job, which simply means make several stops from 30 MPH, allowing time for cooling in between stops to seat the pads to the rotors so to speak. You can find more info here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/40440/tech_tip_brake_burnishing_procedures_for_new_brake_pads_or_shoes.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;At Bendix, we highly recommend that new pads and shoes be broken in properly.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T21:25:09.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2195" CreationDate="2011-10-26T08:42:13.347" Score="2" ViewCount="20072" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend noticed this yesterday and thought it was odd, it stopped but started happening again this morning on my way to work, I think its a V plate.... &quot;as I’m driving along my battery light starts flickering on/off on the dashboard. Have googled it and seen on some MG/Rover forum that it may be a dodgy alternator. or the battery on its way out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the alternator can stick, not sure how to solve this any ideas guys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She said she was going to get her battery checked by the battery guys near here work which isn't a bad idea as long as they don't feed in lies and say it does when it doesn't need replacing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T00:51:50.763" Title="Rover 25 - My battery light starts flickering on/off on the dashboard" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2194" CreationDate="2011-10-26T10:57:51.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three common causes for this issue. Two of them are the ones you have identified (failing batery or alternator), the third is the simplest - a poor connection or broken wire from the alternator. This latter you should be able to check with a multimeter, There should be a small wire coming from the back of the alternator to the dashboard carrying the charge signal (your workshop manual should tell you which one if it isn't obvious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, both batteries and alternators have fairly short lives, and given the quoted age of the car I would expect both to be near to needing replacement (V is 2000, so 11 years old) if they have not been done already - alternators typically last 8-10 years and batteries less than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T10:57:51.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2011-10-26T13:09:17.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this in a very old (1960's) MB Service Manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach a brake fluid resistant hose that is long enough to touch the ground to the bleeder nipple.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the other end of the hose in a clear bottle filled 1/4 of the way with fresh brake fluid (the hose should be under the level of fluid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now loosen the brake bleeder.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you pump the brakes, you should see bubbles and old fluid pushed into the bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the bubbles stop (and when the fluid starts coming out clean) close the bleeder, remove the hose, and go to the next brake bleeder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works in part because once the air has been pushed out and the pedal is released, only fluid is sucked back in.  The down side is that it is a bit trickier to truly replace all of the fluid as there is a small chance some of the old fluid mixed with new will get back in.  The ratio of the mix depends on how often you empty and refill the bottle.  (Make sure the bleeder is closed when you do that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T13:09:17.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2201" CreationDate="2011-10-26T14:20:40.233" Score="4" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wife's car (2002 Subaru Outback) is ready for new struts and I'm trying to determine the correct part set.  TireRack, surprisingly, lists &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=KYB&amp;amp;model=GR-2%20Strut&amp;amp;group=GR-2&amp;amp;partNum=334448&amp;amp;autoMake=Subaru&amp;amp;autoModel=Outback%20L.L.%20Bean&amp;amp;autoYear=2002&amp;amp;autoModClar=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two different sets of front struts&lt;/a&gt;.  One set is for &quot;models after 6/02 only&quot; and the other is for &quot;models before 5/02 only.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the question: how do I determine which pair I need?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the VIN number and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html#legacy%20Outback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I've confirmed that the vehicle is a 2002&lt;/a&gt; (thanks VIN) but there's no month information there.  Is there another way to determine which part is necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T12:22:57.020" Title="Which of these two front struts is the correct one for a 2002 Subaru Outback?" Tags="|suspension|subaru|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-26T15:11:32.353" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;The passenger side washer jet on my 96 GMC Suburban K2500 got something in it, and I can't figure out how to clear it. The tubing is buried somewhere inside the firewall and I can't find the end to backflush it. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1160" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T19:53:12.667" Title="Blocked windshield washer jet 96 Suburban K2500" Tags="|chevrolet|windshield-washer|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2011-10-26T18:04:25.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use handheld vacuum pump with a catch can in-line.  I've also got speedbleeders.  Makes really short work of brake bleeding, just open the bleeders, hook up the hoses, and pump until you get clean fluid (or need to top off the reservoir).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:04:25.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1791" CreationDate="2011-10-26T18:06:42.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your fuel filter clean? The lines could also be contaminated from sitting so long. Try flushing them with some gas. I've seen many engines that haven't run in a long time not work because of dirty fuel. Make sure the tank is clean as well. Also, check that the fuel pump is still working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:06:42.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2011-10-26T18:10:18.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be some kind of sticker in the driver's side door jamb that will tell you a more specific date of manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:10:18.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2198" CreationDate="2011-10-26T19:53:12.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, washer jets tend to clog at the actual jet - first thing I'd do is get a thin needle and try to clear the jet itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T19:53:12.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-27T01:45:59.433" Score="5" ViewCount="34363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an OBD-II reader/scan tool that can also diagnose air bag warning light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Honda Element EX has a red air bag warning light that recently has turned on. The nearest Honda dealer wants $109 just to do a diagnostic. I know there are good OBD-II readers/scan tools for about that price. Was hoping I could do the diagnostic myself using the tool, print out a report from my PC, then take that to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to have a Honda dealer do any needed maintenance or repairs regarding the airbag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1163" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T19:38:01.213" Title="OBD-II reader/scan tool that can also diagnose air bag light" Tags="|honda|electrical|obd-ii|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2210" CreationDate="2011-10-27T03:38:50.427" Score="24" ViewCount="615894" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I loosen car tire lug nuts (so that I can change a tire) when they are really really stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried turning the provided wrench, even standing and jumping on it. This worked for 4 of the lug nuts, but not the bottom-most one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of using a &lt;strong&gt;rust remover/blaster&lt;/strong&gt;, but I do not see much rust at all, and the tires are not too old if I recall correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another recommendation I see is to use a &lt;strong&gt;long pipe&lt;/strong&gt; on the handle of the wrench for more torque. But even with just the wrench I seem to be warping the stock wrench with my efforts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some forums recommend using a &lt;strong&gt;4-way lug wrench&lt;/strong&gt;, but they do not say how to use one, or why they are better than the stock wrench. Can they provide me more torque than jumping on a standard wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I am hopeful for an answer other than &lt;em&gt;take it to a shop.&lt;/em&gt; I know I can do that, but I am trying to avoid the expense of a tow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:23:42.140" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T01:07:52.853" Title="How do I loosen stuck lug nuts in order to change a tire?" Tags="|tires|stuck-bolt|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-27T04:50:43.453" Score="7" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the title is pretty self explanatory. I'm looking at getting a minivan, and there is a 2011 model with 50k miles, and a 2008 model with like 30k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's better? Is it better to have something newer with more miles? The other way around? It depends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T23:56:38.207" Title="I'm looking to buy a new car and I'm wondering what does more damage on a car: time or miles?" Tags="|fuel-system|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2011-10-27T08:39:58.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends! A few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or more owners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parked on street or in (heated?) garage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insurance may be cheaper for older model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Newer model may be better equipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there have been a few questions on idling vs. (highway) miles: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/is-idling-bad-for-your-engine&quot;&gt;Is idling bad for your engine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/888/are-there-any-advantages-of-idling-a-vehicle-vs-turning-it-off-and-back-on-agai&quot;&gt;Are there any advantages of idling a vehicle vs. turning it off and back on again?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T22:07:24.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2011-10-27T09:18:43.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as the items suggested by jensgram, it is also important to consider the type of milage it is likely to have, and how well maintained it will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large saloon with a high milage is likely to have been a rep-mobile - it will have done most of its miles on the highway, at high speed. On the other hand, a smaller, older hatchback with very low miles will probably have been owned by an older person, and only used for popping down the shops. IMHO the latter is worse - without being used, seals dry up, parts perish more quickly etc, and maintenance is more likely to have been neglected. On the other hand, a sports car with a low milage is likely to have been a cherished second car, and will have been looked after more carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally work on an avarage, for a UK car, of around 10-12k per year, so if a car has done a lot more or less than that I'd be more cautious about it. 50k miles in less than a year seems like an awful lot, and I'd suggest that was probably a commercial/fleet vehicle, wheras 30k in three years sounds quite normal to me. Obviously this does depend on the average milages in your area though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T09:18:43.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2011-10-27T09:27:40.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to use the stock wrench, go out and buy a proper one! I've never seen a stock one that is any use, and some of them are so bad they may as well be made of chocolate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 4-way wrench is simply a cross-shaped bar with 4 different sizes of socket on the ends. You use the appropriate size one for your nuts, and then have effectively a t-bar, which means you can use both hands to get more leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference, however, is for a telescopic bar wrench. These typically extend from around a foot to 2', and come with a selection of sockets for different sized nuts. Again, they simply allow you to get more leverage than the stock wrench, but are easier to store than a 4-way one, and by using the shorter length to re-tighten the nuts, avoids over-tightening (although as the comment above suggests, you should really use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip is to make sure your tyre supplier uses a torque wrench when they fit your tyres - many will use an air-gun which results in the nuts being done up excessivley tight (most likely the cause of your current problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T09:27:40.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2203" CreationDate="2011-10-27T12:08:02.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Readers for air bags, ABS, etc can be quite expensive.  You can try searching online for PC apps and cables that might do it.  I'm hoping somebody has come up with one by now.  Last time I was looking for an ABS code reader for an OBD-II car it was ugly.  The device was called a &quot;MUTT-II&quot; and cost $5,000.  Even worse, it required a vehicle specific ROM pak, each of which cost $5,000.  I decided that I just didn't need my ABS working that bad as the car is only worth half of what the tool to diagnose it costs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a cost-effective alternative, please make sure to come back and let us know what it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T12:08:02.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2011-10-27T13:01:15.643" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that lug nuts are exposed to literally every element that could possibly cause corrosion.  It sounds like your last nut is stuck due to some rust or oxidation that you can't see.  Here's how I generally approach a badly stuck nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your safety gear: eye protection, jack stands, everything to keep yourself from getting killed when this wheel finally comes loose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil&quot;&gt;penetrating oil&lt;/a&gt; (AKA rust blaster).  Really soak the bolt and nut.  Now walk away and let it soak in, possibly for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Affix the correct socket to your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaker_bar&quot;&gt;breaker bar&lt;/a&gt;.  This is a totally different beast from the stock tire iron.  Its handle is much more durable and is very unlikely to bend under the torque that you're about to apply.  Remember, think carefully about what's going to happen when the nut lets go.  If you're pulling, it's not hard to end up punching yourself in the face.  If you're pushing, don't let your fingers bash into the garage floor or other components.  &lt;em&gt;I've hurt myself using both methods when battling bolts  (never worse than giving my wife an excuse to eyeroll me, thankfully).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try getting the nut off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Didn't work?  Take a longish piece of steel pipe, stick it over the end of the breaker bar to increase the moment arm of the lever and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I get to this point, I usually cycle between penetrating oil and a super long breaker bar.  Things eventually come loose after a sufficiently long period of &lt;strong&gt;HULK SMASH&lt;/strong&gt; time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: when working with exhaust nuts and bolts, the bolt will eventually snap under enough torque.  This is less likely with the much more robust wheel studs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T12:15:17.383" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T12:15:17.383" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2011-10-27T17:13:06.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Bob Cross mentioned, use the breaker bar.  I've had to use them to remove brake calipers in the past.  In the past, I have not seen such a thing as a breaker bar readily for sale at the hardware stores where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have improvised a breaker bar using one of those metal pipes that are used for running electrical wires.  Simply take your ratchet to the hardware store with you and find a suitably sized pipe that fits nicely around the ratchet handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastEditorUserId="1095" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T19:49:21.180" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T19:49:21.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2223" CreationDate="2011-10-27T17:14:41.093" Score="5" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that halogen headlights should be replaced in pairs.  I've been wondering if the same is true of HID headlights.  They are much more expensive, so I would like to avoid having to buy two of them if one will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T19:27:34.553" Title="Is it best to replace HID headlights in pairs?" Tags="|headlight|hid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2011-10-27T18:15:07.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been really sucessful with Auto Shocker (It used to be called Auto Vaccine). It's a odor eliminator and it really penetrates the upholstry to get rid of odors. I used it all the time, between dogs and athletic children my car stink a lot. You should give it a try, it's my favorite. You can find it at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biocidesystems.com/auto3hslanding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biocidesystems.com/auto3hslanding.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T18:15:07.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2226" CreationDate="2011-10-27T22:02:07.697" Score="5" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm fairly familiar with the question of using fuel injector cleaning solutions, and using Seafoam for intake/injector cleanings, recently I've been looking into cleaning my throttle body since my car is approaching 100k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason this actually came up is because while I've been using Seafoam and Gumout for my fuel system without issue, I noticed that 3M offers a DIY fuel system tuneup kit which has an intake cleaner, fuel addative, and a can of throttle body cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't plan to buy the kit since I have a can of spray throttle cleaner on hand, when looking into the procedure, most sites (including Popular Mechanics) say it's best to dilute the spray cleaner because it can damage sensors on contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the articles however also were focused on the matter of cars idling and stalling while driving - an issue I have yet to encounter - so is this type of cleaning something best saved for when something breaks, or is it a good preventive maintenance measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3M kit on Amazon has close to 5 stars so I'm assuming it works well, however I'm not sure if the &quot;kit&quot; has a diluted user friendly version of the cleaner to prevent accidental damage, vs. your standard no thrills aerosol spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T22:07:34.523" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T06:01:20.650" Title="DIY Throttle Body Cleaning - Worthwhile?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="585" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:16:27.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my 1990 Toyota V6 3.0 extra cab running on the front two wheels only, I had the same thing happen. I was told, a friend of mine, drove a similar truck all the way from the desert into San Diego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been driving the truck all morning, the deal is, I have a &quot;High&quot; 4x4 and a &quot;Low&quot; 4x4, right now I have it engaged to be High 4x4, I am not using the vehicle under any heavy strain. It SEEMS like my RPMs are running much lower, under RWD, at 60 to 80 mph, my RPMs are about 4k. Using ONLY the front two wheels, I'm averaging at 2.5k RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to keep driving it like this, I'll post here, and let you know if it can take it. This particular Toyota is the most popular 4WD where I live, so I'll find a few owners and ask them about it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1170" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T08:40:04.710" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T08:40:04.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:56:38.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real question is: How well was it taken care of? People that don't take care of them do the most damage over time or miles. Does the seller have copies of service records?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1171" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T23:56:38.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2222" CreationDate="2011-10-28T19:53:38.880" Score="5" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2005 Volvo S60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car runs great, but I've discovered that the suspension feels a bit stiff.  When I go over a bump, I get shaken up a lot more than I do going over bumps in other vehicles I have driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to improve the Volvo's suspension to provide a smoother ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, I called a local shop and asked about replacing the shocks/structs.  I was quoted $1400 for parts and labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that I'm willing to take my car up on jackstands and get my hands dirty, should I have to replace shocks/struts to get a smoother ride?  Is there anything else I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T08:44:56.197" Title="How to improve suspension on my 2005 Volvo S60?" Tags="|suspension|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2219" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:22:08.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What model of shocks/struts are on there now. Stuff marketed as comfort or similar will be softer than ones marketed as sport or handling. This could also be the springs. Is everything stock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to get a compressor for the springs that are on the struts. Be very careful, as a loaded spring carries a huge amount of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:22:08.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:30:23.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last resort... Heat the nut, and it will expand. This might help loosen it, but try this only after you have sprayed it to deaf with corrosion removing stuff. If you can see the other side, cool the lug and it will help the process. Again, last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:30:23.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2219" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:33:28.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of simultaneous questions going on here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have an older / non-new car.  Should you have to replace the shocks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shocks wear out over time and mileage.  I'm going to be replacing the wife's shocks this weekend (assuming they arrive on schedule).  The existing shocks have at least 50K miles on them so they're at the end of their expected life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will replacing shocks give you a smoother ride?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems unlikely.  Worn shocks generally underdamp the spring rate of the suspension rather than overdamp it.  This means that the generally expected symptom of worn shocks is a wallowing suspension that continues to bounce after a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that you look critically at the tires on the car.  Tires are an undamped spring in the whole suspension equation so, if they're harsh or aggressive, there's nothing your shocks can do about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, try visiting a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp&quot;&gt;Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt; and searching for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/grandtour_as.jsp&quot;&gt;Grand Touring&lt;/a&gt; tires.  You might find that the ride is more to your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:33:28.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2212" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:39:54.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, assuming they are the same as xenon lights bulbs, you don't have to. The only thing you will notice is a difference in color while the bulb breaks in, again assuming they are the same as xenon. We only changed them when they were out on BMWs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:39:54.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-29T12:39:14.067" Score="2" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting conflicting information on the type of brake pads to install on my vehicles. I own a '04 Toyota Corolla and a '00 Nissan Frontier (4cyc., 2WD). I'm trying to figure out whether I should put ceramic or semi-metallic brake pads on them. I called the Nissan dealership and they said they didn't know, as they just put on what they're given. &#xA;The local auto parts store sells their &quot;lifetime warranty&quot; ceramic pads, which my local shop said would destroy my rotors. Now I'm confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general rule? Is it vehicle dependent? If so, how do I find out what's recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T23:08:49.977" Title="ceramic vs. semi-metalic brake pads for '04 Corolla and '00 Frontier" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2212" CreationDate="2011-10-30T19:27:34.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No - with HIDs, the colour temperature is very well defined (after the breaking in, as Petro mentioned) so if you have 10k's, replacing one with another 10k will very rapidly be the same tone as its pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I looked into this when I had one die, as the cost for a new one on my car was £600 - the answer was quite important :-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T19:27:34.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2214" CreationDate="2011-10-31T06:01:20.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're regularly using seafoam, taking care of the engine, and haven't noticed any issues (and also aren't using it for baja or rally), I'd probably skip it. I've done it on every vehicle I own (around 140k on the wife's jetta, 160k on a ranger and 240k on an f150) the first two were starting to have a &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; roughness on idle... the f150 I was doing a bunch of other stuff to it and did that too.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's not hard, but as you've read some of the sensors are mighty sensitive (I cleaned the MAF on my ranger at the same time, such an expensive little thread of metal...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1173" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T06:01:20.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-31T07:42:09.763" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '96 Holden Apollo, automatic, that has a point when accelerating where it sounds like its revving up a bit higher and seems like the gears might not be really gripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats my uneducated guess anyways. If I push the pedal a bit harder the sound goes away and it feels like I've got proper power at the feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this might be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T09:37:25.627" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T09:37:25.627" Title="Trying to diagnose from this sound when accelerating" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2232" CreationDate="2011-10-31T13:58:45.743" Score="1" ViewCount="68151" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was putting my girlfriend's plates+frame on her Civic, and being the he-man that I'm not, I managed to break the heads off both screws in two tries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Home Depot and picked up one of those $20 removal kits for my drill and I managed to get one screw out, but the other one is seriously stuck in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make matters worse, during my initial try to get it out I broke off a crummy reverse threaded drill bit in there, so the new reverse bit while a quality part won't even dig into the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-edit- I don't have access to the screw from inside the trunk either, it's got a panel welded on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her plate+frame is on for now, but it's basically on with one screw and falls to the side every now and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any trick I can use to get the other screw out, or something decent I can do to secure the plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1002" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T09:37:18.137" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T20:31:10.507" Title="How can I get a stuck broken screw out of a rear license plate?" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-31T14:00:40.703" Score="1" ViewCount="2538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 E38 with a very strange problem with the remote locking mechanism. I'm able to unlock the doors and open the bootlid, but the locking button doesn't lock the doors anymore. It used to, but stopped working for both of my keys at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic chalked the problems up to remote key malfunction, but the button itself works - if I press the locking button when the doors are already locked, the interior lights go on just like they're supposed to. If the car is unlocked, the button does nothing at all. Any ideas what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1174" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T06:17:31.483" Title="Remote locking button stopped working with 1997 BMW 728i" Tags="|troubleshooting|bmw|locks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2228" CreationDate="2011-10-31T14:56:52.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there ANY of the screw available? You could try cutting a potato in half, then freezing it. Use a rubber mallet to pound onto the exposed screw shaft and then turn.&#xA;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1175" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T14:56:52.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2227" CreationDate="2011-10-31T16:25:45.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's time to visit the transmission shop. Every time I have had happen what you describe, something in the transmission had to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T16:25:45.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2228" CreationDate="2011-10-31T20:33:06.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how mechanism for holding the screw is attached to the car, you might have a couple of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars have plastic blocks embedded in the bumper. (Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.z1motorsports.com/popup_image.php?pID=3240&amp;amp;imageNum=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;)  If that the case, you can probably simply drill out the broken screw, and then either replace the block, or use a larger-size self-threading screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is a clip (Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://img.alibaba.com/photo/228464945/u_clip_nuts.summ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).  If that's the case, you can probably use wire cutters to break apart the clip, spin it apart, and then replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores will have many universal replacement parts what'll probably replace whatever you have if you destroy the existing mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T20:33:06.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2224" CreationDate="2011-11-01T14:50:09.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I don't think it's common, ceramic pads can produce more heat than than semi-metallic, which can warp stock rotors over time. Commonly, if you're switching to ceramic, you should also switch to slotted, x-drilled, or hybrid (slotted and x-drilled) rotors to help dissipate the heat better...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not vehicle dependent. It's mostly rotor dependent, but some people seem to run fine with stock rotors, so long as you're not working them overly hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, they can hurt your rotors due to higher heat, so it's a give-or-take kinda thing. I'd suggest new rotors as a precaution though (you can find some decent slotted or x-drilled rotors for fairly cheap in some places).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T14:50:09.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1400" CreationDate="2011-11-01T15:32:41.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife had an identical issue with her 2007 Dodge Caliber. The issue ended up being the anti-theft (immobilizer) had gone haywire. On off days, it would act up and wouldn't start or go into neutral. For that we had to take it into the dealer to get fixed. Initially, they couldn't reproduce the issue, even when keeping it for a few days... So they gave it back without fixing anything. Luckily, the next time we brought it in they were finally able to reproduce the issue and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T15:32:41.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:23:10.780" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Nissan Murano and am currently experiencing the following situation that started about two weeks ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not able to use the in-built programmed HomeLink garage door opener in the mornings to close my garage door when leaving.  I &lt;em&gt;am&lt;/em&gt; able to open/close the garage door using the same remote when returning later in the day (mid-morning to any time in the afternoon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to do this without fail since I bought the car two months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that has recently changed is the weather in the area, I am in North Texas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1179" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T13:23:46.583" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T21:58:55.200" Title="HomeLink not opening garage door in the mornings" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2228" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:58:30.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use EZ outs, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966196000P?prdNo=1&amp;amp;blockNo=1&amp;amp;blockType=G1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these at Sears&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be precise though or it won't work.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRaDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T17:13:14.407" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T17:13:14.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-01T21:41:10.867" Score="3" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used car a few years back that has a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) including a readout on the dash with the pressure level on all tires and a warning indicator when any of the tires is more than 10 pounds under-inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I bought the car, I've noticed that the TPMS intermittently won't get a reading on one of the tires and shows &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; for the PSI and the flat tire indicator will light up on the dash. It seems fairly random which tire(s) are not getting a reading and many times it will correct itself either later in the same trip or the next time I start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought there might be a battery in the device mounted on the rims that was going dead, but I'm going on 5 years of having the problem and it still goes in and out on the various tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not exactly sure how these things work, or if they even have batteries in them. So I'm not sure what to blame the issue on. Are these things just generally flaky? Could all 4 of them be defective (it has indicated a problem on all of the tires at one time or another). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tires were right on the borderline of being the right pressure, I could see temperature pushing them over the line, but I'd assume in that case it would just show a low PSI reading and not a &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt;, which I assume means it didn't get data from that tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what might be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T09:52:39.123" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T09:52:39.123" Title="What might cause a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TMPS) to intermittently get no reading?" Tags="|tires|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-01T21:42:17.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) is an electronic system designed to monitor the air pressure inside the pneumatic tires on various types of vehicles. The system is also sometimes referred to as a tire-pressure indication system (TPIS). These systems report real-time tire-pressure information to the driver of the vehicle, either via a gauge, a pictogram display, or a simple low-pressure warning light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="442" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T22:19:28.743" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T22:19:28.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-01T21:42:17.870" Score="0" Body="A tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) is an electronic system designed to monitor the air pressure inside the pneumatic tires on various types of vehicles." OwnerUserId="442" LastEditorUserId="442" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T22:19:31.070" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T22:19:31.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2237" CreationDate="2011-11-01T23:04:50.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I don't know which of the two main types of TPMS Infiniti use, powered or passive (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire-pressure_monitoring_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; for some explanation), but my guess would be powered, and that one of the chassis mounted antennae is marginal on gain so has trouble getting a reading under some conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the antenna has had some damage - worth a check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T23:04:50.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2011-11-01T23:47:23.983" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things you can do to unstick the nut before turning it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;lubricant or rust blaster&lt;/strong&gt;. Keep things wet and give it time to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;heat&lt;/strong&gt; cycling. Heat it up (gently) and let it cool. Repeat. If you oil it up and point a propane torch at it, you may start a fire, so be careful. It's not so important to heat just the nut or just the stud - the cycles will do a lot of good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;vibrations and shocks&lt;/strong&gt;. Rap the nut with a wrench. You don't have to hit hard; hitting over and over works. This can break the corrosion as well as help the lube work its way in. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several tools designed to make good use of shocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;handheld impact driver&lt;/strong&gt; ($30) is a simple tool for around for just this purpose. You attach a socket, put it on the lug nut, twist, and hit with a hammer. Repeat. You could do this once a minute while the lube works its way in, and apply heat in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are battery-powered &lt;strong&gt;impact drivers&lt;/strong&gt; under $100 that I use for carpentry that can also do this job. If you already have a cordless drill, you can get an impact driver that uses the same battery. Loud!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can do what the pros do - use a &lt;strong&gt;pneumatic impact wrench&lt;/strong&gt;. You may be able to rent one for a single use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact tools should be used with special &lt;strong&gt;impact-rated&lt;/strong&gt; sockets. These use tougher steel and no chrome, so they are less likely to shatter. &lt;strong&gt;Eye protection&lt;/strong&gt; is still a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I change a tire, I first break each lug nut while the car is still on the ground, with parking brake set, so everything is stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a stud is in really bad shape, even after you break things lose, you may have to fight the rest of the way off the stud. It's a lot like cutting new threads. In that case, back off after every 1/4 turn or so, and keep adding lots of lube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T23:47:23.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-02T01:16:25.497" Score="1" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently fixed a problem where the cruise control and brake lights stopped working at the same time in my 2006 GMC Canyon. The question is not how to fix this, but how it broke to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the switches at the brake pedal and found that the switch for the brake lights (according to the wiring schematic in the Haynes book) had a lot of burnt residue inside the switch where contact was made between the two diodes. I am just wondering how it could have had enough power running between them to cause shorting/melting/burning when the fuse remained intact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="857" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T12:39:04.830" Title="Cruise Control and Brake Lights not Working" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2011-11-02T12:17:43.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, fuses are unreliable.  I had a dead short in one of my cars that burned up a significant section of the wiring harness.  Part of the wire that shorted was just plain gone, nothing left to be found.  Fuse never blew.  Fuse actually got so hot that it melted down into the fusebox.  Big mess.  Took me 2 months of working on it every available evening after work before I got it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T12:17:43.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-02T14:12:37.427" Score="4" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;How I can remove the plastic fan from the axle of the heating blower motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a Mercedes-Benz 308D van from 1992. The blower motor is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschmotorsandcontrols.co.uk/elektromotoren/produkt/0130007027/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch part number 0 130 007 027&lt;/a&gt;. I know that also all Mercedes 207D, 208D ,209D, 210D, 307D, 308D, 309D, 310D, 407D, 409D, 410D vans, Volkswagen LT 28, LT 55 vans and Peugeot 305 from years 1983-1984 use the same motor, so people having experience with these vehicles can also help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor is broken, and I got a new one, but now I need to take the plastic fan off the old one to use on the new motor. The plastic fan attached to the motor looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FOvBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bosch-013000702-blower-motor-with-fan-front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a photo from the other side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ms8A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;other side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried holding the plastic fan with one hand pulling the motor as hard as I can without feeling that the plastic might brake and also tried hitting the axle of the motor from the other side with a hammer, but neither method made it move even a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to rotate the plastic fan in relation to the motor axle doesn't work because I can't get hold of the axle with any tool hard enough not to have it rotate when I rotate the plastic fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T14:08:54.093" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T20:49:09.027" Title="How can I remove heating blower fan from the blower motor - Mercedes-Benz 308D van?" Tags="|vw|mercedes-benz|peugeot|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2229" CreationDate="2011-11-02T22:37:48.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally when a system fails from the keys, but otherwise works from the car, it could be a module not getting a signal. If you can look at your codes, they might say something about the locking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T22:37:48.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2247" CreationDate="2011-11-02T22:51:42.313" Score="5" ViewCount="31926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at a red light and my car was in neutral and got stuck (wouldn't go to first). My mechanic told me that it is the clutch and is going to cost $1,200 to replace. The guy at AutoZone said that it may not be the clutch and that it could be the neutral safety switch or the synchronizer. How can I tell if it's as simple as the neutral safety switch and not a full blown clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2002 Hyundai Elantra&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;120,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1182" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:23:52.350" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T23:17:50.873" Title="Manual Transmission - Stuck in Neutral" Tags="|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2011-11-02T22:59:08.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the Neutral Safety Switch can jam a transmission, but the throw out bearing in the clutch can do this. I doubt it would be a sychro, but you never know. How many miles on the car/clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T22:59:08.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2011-11-03T10:35:12.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A synchro issue would usually cause problems with one or two gears, not all of them. Does it go into gears easily with the engine switched off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never come across a manual car with a neutral safety switch, but I doubt it would cause an issue with selecting a gear - a problem with that would be more likely to prevent you starting the engine (This is a common issue with some older cars that have a bypass wire fitted to manula versions, and a switch on automatics - the connections corrode over time and stop the engine from starting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't specify where you are, and thus which currency you're in, but I would expect a clutch change to cost somewhere in the region of £3-400 / US$5-600 unless it is especially complicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T10:35:12.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-03T14:13:28.470" Score="2" ViewCount="6264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've double checked all internal and external fuses I can find, that being panel next to the battery and panel under steering wheel. I adjusted wires on my head unit but then when I put it all back after a little while the dashboard lights stop working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a quick look at the wiring but unless anyway has any suggestions I'll have to try pulling more of the dash apart to find where the problem lies =(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T16:02:23.810" Title="Peugeot 206: Dash and clock backlights stopped working" Tags="|lights|interior|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2011-11-03T16:04:12.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I tell if it's as simple as the neutral safety switch and not&#xA;  a full blown clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would normally expect a neutral safety switch on a manual to prevent you from starting the engine, not getting into gear once the engine is running.  This is the behavior that my car exhibits: if you don't have your clutch pedal pushed down, the car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the car was already running, a bad switch doesn't sound like the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did the car behave when you tried to engage first?  Did the gears grind?  Did the stick move at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did the other gears sound?  With a usable clutch mechanism, you should be able to engage top gear at a dead stop (although you won't be able to move, most likely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the gears sound bad, I would be concerned about the clutch.  If only first is bad, I would be worried about a gear or a synchro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final question: did this occur suddenly?  Were you driving fine at one stop light and things were broken at the next light?  If so, think back: was there a distinctive sound or symptom of the failure?  A mechanical failure of this sort would likely have been very noticeable.  An electrical fault could have been much more subtle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Responding to the comments&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say that you couldn't get out of gear, what do you mean?  Does the stick move at all?  Can you push the stick towards one of the gear gates?  Do the gears grind when you do?  Or is there silence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't move the stick at all, I would be concerned about the shift linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T19:51:20.613" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T19:51:20.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2249" CreationDate="2011-11-03T17:24:47.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's real easy to pinch a wire when working in the dash area.  If not a short that blows a fuse, a wire may have gotten cut clean through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:24:47.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2253" CreationDate="2011-11-03T19:17:48.583" Score="4" ViewCount="31685" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be causing my (non-)starting issues? Occasionally (once every two weeks or so) when the keys are inserted and turned to the start position, nothing happens. No noise, no dome lights dimming if they're already on, nothing. The dash lights come on, as well as any accessories (radio, blower, etc.), but nothing to indicate that it's trying to start. Sometimes I can just take the keys out, put them back in, and then it starts normally, but sometimes it will take several minutes of trying before The starter actually engages and then the engine will start right up (no whining or sputtering, just a normal start). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is less than a year old. The van has about 90k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlike any electrical problem I've had other vehicles (alternator/battery/solenoid/starter issues) -- in those the car would either try and fail to start or wouldn't start at all because it was totally drained of battery power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-11-04T11:52:54.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T02:06:36.377" Title="2006 Kia Sedona intermittently not starting" Tags="|electrical|starting|kia|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2252" CreationDate="2011-11-04T09:26:36.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like an immobiliser problem to me. What happens if you get out, lock, then unlock the van, then try again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible problem is a loose wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid, but in that case I'd expect it to need physical intervention before it would work again (i.e. knocking or wiggling the wire to remake contact)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T09:26:36.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2252" CreationDate="2011-11-04T13:51:55.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or could be a bad ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T13:51:55.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7134" CreationDate="2011-11-04T13:55:03.767" Score="3" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I emphasise CONTROL because pug has an air con button. I have heard people say it is too expensive/difficult/ just not worth retrofitting air con to a car but I would like to swap the single button one with a digital control. The interface even fits in the same slot but would there be extra parts? I'm guessing some kind of control unit to increase/decrease temperature as it's currently just a button and manual rotate switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any feedback or experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:04:19.373" Title="Adding air condition (con) CONTROLS to a Peugeot 206" Tags="|ac|peugeot|retrofit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2249" CreationDate="2011-11-04T16:02:23.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turned out when I whacked the dimmer switch for the dash lights and the speedometer etc section came to life (back-light came on). Clock is still not working but if I spend a bit more time on that I should be able establish what's wrong, I may have actually blown the back-light bulb for it. (I will update)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T16:02:23.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-04T23:44:59.003" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rewriring my car with new harness and I noticed something strange. My left turn lights blink faster than my right turn lights. They are both routed through the same relay and I don't think they did that with the old harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1959 Nash Metropolitan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Positive Ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No after-market electronics remaining (It has a radio and temp guage, but I removed them because the wiring was done incorrectly.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T20:03:22.540" Title="Turn lights are blinking at a different rate" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3007" CreationDate="2011-11-04T23:52:59.587" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1959 Nash Metropolitan with an oil bath air filter. Would you recommend just leaving it alone or should I replace it with a modern air filter? (The replacement looks the same from the outside so I'm not worried about the appearance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T21:11:00.920" Title="Should I replace my oil bath air filter with a normal one?" Tags="|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2257" CreationDate="2011-11-05T03:57:23.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a wire somewhere grounded. The system works in old cars by heating an elements that separates, and joins once cool again. If you updated, the newer stuff uses a relay that would mimics this in a way. Look for the light that is either out or dim, and then chase the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T03:57:23.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2011-11-05T04:04:40.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried some kind of penetrating oil? And possibly asking the parts store if there is a puller tool? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T04:04:40.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-05T15:18:18.970" Score="4" ViewCount="15672" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Ford Focus makes small grinding and vibrating noises when turning to the right. The problem was much more severe earlier this month. I took it to the shop and had them get me new tires and an alignment. That fixed the majority of the problems. However, i am still having the grinding and vibrating noises when turning to the right. The mechanic drove it around and said that it was probably the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if that sounds like transmission to all of you and how much would it cost to repair or replace my 5 speed manual transmission. It has around 115k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1187" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:32:03.180" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T06:36:31.777" Title="turning right causing small vibration and noise" Tags="|ford|manual-transmission|focus|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2264" CreationDate="2011-11-05T18:42:54.397" Score="3" ViewCount="5844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the oil in my pickup a couple months ago, and had about a quart of clean oil left in the container when I was done. I don't have a garage or other handy place to keep stuff like this, so I just left it in the bed of my truck. Unfortunately the lid was not completely sealed, and a good amount of the oil leaked out and now covers the bed of my truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is the best approach to cleaning up this mess? So far I've used (a lot of) paper towels to get most of it off, and then emptied half a bottle of dish soap into the back of my truck and scrubbed with a toothbrush to get the rest, and I seem to have created a thick, goopy oil-soap residue that's hard to get off. Should I just keep scrubbing and rinsing, or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1188" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T03:58:32.883" Title="how to clean up spilled oil?" Tags="|oil|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-11-06T05:56:19.207" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are things I check before buying a car (in addition to Alex's advice):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it has radiator fluid (at a proper level). If the radiator fluid is empty, it probably has a radiator leak, they probably have not been watching it, and the engine probably has heat damage. The thermometer won't work without radiator fluid so they won't see that the car has been overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the oil and transmission fluid are at proper levels. Make sure they look clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Swipe your finger (or cloth) around the inside of the exhaust (while its cold). If you have a bunch of black soot on your finger (or cloth), it probably burns oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a cold engine, take the radiator fluid cap off and start the engine. If bubbles come up after a few minutes, walk away. It probably has a blown head gasket. It is normal for the radiator fluid level to raise since it will expand due to heat. Make sure the fluid looks clean. If it has stuff in it, they might have used a quick fix product to patch a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the radiator cap on, drive around and let the engine warm up. Then squeeze the large hose coming from the radiator (with a cloth or gloves to protect from heat). It should be pressurized. If the hose does not pressurize, it may have a radiator leak or something else might be wrong, and the engine may have overheated. You will have to compare against healthy cars to see how much pressure is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the oil cap off and take a look inside. If there are a lot of dark dry clumps of oil everywhere... the engine probably overheated at some point and probably burns oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have someone accelerate the car away really fast. If you see clouds of dark blue smoke, it probably burns oil. If you see clouds of white smoke, it could have a blown head gasket. Get a feeling of what it should look like by paying attention to healthy cars.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the tires to see if they have evenly worn tread. If the wear is only on one side of the tire, the wheels will probably need an alignment. If it needs alignment, you can try using it to talk them down on the price more. If the tires are near the end of their life, consider that you'll probably have to spend a couple hundred dollars on new tires soon if you get the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q&quot;&gt;Make sure that the alternator works&lt;/a&gt;. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COJr7OB23Hw&quot;&gt;check the voltage of the battery with a multi-meter&lt;/a&gt; before and after starting the car. The voltage should be higher after the car is started.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it shows signs of overheating, leaking radiator fluid, having a blown head gasket, or leaking/burning oil... I would not buy the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T18:19:14.953" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T18:19:14.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2262" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:07:32.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was anywhere other than the bed of a truck, the answer would probably be kitty litter, but I don't think that will work in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look at some sort of degreaser - I know you can get engine cleaners which should do a good job of it, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443295868&amp;amp;bmUID=1320588168091&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard warnings and disclaimers apply:  try the product on a small spot to ensure that it doesn't damage the paint or any other coating. Also, try to clean it in a location where the results aren't going to wash into the sewers or otherwise contaminate things.  A self-serve car wash where they recycle the water would probably be a good spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T14:07:32.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-06T17:04:06.397" Score="8" ViewCount="1521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a troy bilt snow blower with a tecumseh engine and it starts great and runs great. Most of the time, anyway. It will scoop up snow and throw it just fine, and then for no obvious reason it stalls. If I leave it idling with no load it runs fine endlessly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I put load on it (engage the augur or the wheel drive) then stop, after 5-10 seconds after I stop it will stall. I've replaced the spark plug, I've taken apart the carb, cleaned it,  cleaned out the jets. I don't know what else it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's about to stall, if I pump the primer it will catch and start running fine again until I put some load on it and relieve the load again. Sometimes the same trick works by closing the choke, but I have to be quick and often miss it and it stalls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anybody has any suggestions of things to try to fix it, I'd appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is exactly the right forum, but it says 'mechanics' not 'cars' specifically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T14:20:09.853" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T14:20:09.853" Title="Looking for suggestions about what to try and fix on my tecumseh snow blower engine that stalls after you stop putting load on it" Tags="|engine|small-engine|snowblower|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2257" CreationDate="2011-11-06T20:03:22.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not a problem in the wiring, it could simply be different rated bulbs.  Try swapping the bulbs from the left to the right (front &amp;amp; back) and see if that affects the rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T20:03:22.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2272" CreationDate="2011-11-06T21:33:30.713" Score="4" ViewCount="51912" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX with 72k miles. About three weeks ago I started noticing a scraping sound when I turn left. My mechanic did a courtesy check of alignment, balance and tire pressure about two weeks ago, but didn't find anything that could've caused the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's where I am with the diagnosis right now: The sound is obvious when I turn left at speed, but inaudible when I turn left slowly. After turning left fast, if I then straighten the wheel, the sound goes away, but not immediately – the intensity of the sound is not related to how &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; I turn the wheel left, but seems to be in how much the car tilts on its springs as it turns. (Once or twice I believe I've heard it while going straight, hitting bumps that cause the car to lean slightly left, but I have a hard time reproducing that with any regularity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power steering fluid level is OK. The sound is not associated with any handling problems; it clearly comes from the rear of the car, and at first I thought something was scraping on the ground. There's definitely nothing hitting the ground while the car is stopped, and it's difficult to look carefully under a moving car while it turns left fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose what is causing the sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T13:52:55.637" Title="How can I diagnose a scraping sound when turning left?" Tags="|troubleshooting|subaru|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-06T22:48:44.403" Score="2" ViewCount="2612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question, so if it isn't feel free to move or delete or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just burned an MP3 cd with about 80 songs on it, and it plays fine on my computer. When I put it in my car, though, only some of the songs play. The songs all started out in different formats (AAC, Protected AAC, Purchased AAC) but I converted them all (in iTunes) to MP3s ('MPEG audio file'). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I burned them all to a cd in iTunes (MP3 CD, 8x speed, just to be safe), and when I put it in my car, only some of the songs play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why only some of the songs, but not all, would be playing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T14:33:52.053" Title="Audio player doesn't read some songs" Tags="|audio|hyundai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-06-12T16:32:53.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2271" CreationDate="2011-11-07T00:55:19.103" Score="2" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in a Jetta and am curious if 60k on an automatic 2001 model is considered high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will enjoy changing the brake pads and other maintenance, but not dumping a ton of money into it over the next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T03:35:12.583" Title="Will a used Jetta with 60k miles be a fixer upper?" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2011-11-07T09:25:22.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grumbling noises while turning are usually CV joints. There are 4 of these (one each end of each drive shaft), but he usual culprit is the outer one on the side that is causing the noise - i.e. in this case the right hand one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check, jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands. grip the drive shaft firmly in one hand (wear gloves...), and the wheel in the other, and try to twist them in opposite directions - if it has gone you should be able to feel a slight clunky movement in the joint, although you won't be able to see it as it will be covered by a rubber gaiter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing is a relatively easy job for a competent home mechanic, or a few hours for a shop. Much cheaper than replacing the entire gearbox!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T09:25:22.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2011-11-07T09:30:24.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that was pretty low mileage. I generally work on a ballpark figure of 10-12k/year, so I'd expect an average 10 year old car to have at least 100k on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things to watch for a low mileage car is that maintenance may have been neglected, especially if it has been standing unused for any length of time. Check the maintenance records to make sure everything has been done, and check over the car to make sure its appearance and condition match the paperwork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T09:30:24.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2267" CreationDate="2011-11-07T13:52:55.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three possibilities occur to me right away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nick could be right in this other answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2261/turning-right-causing-small-vibration-and-noise/2270#2270&quot;&gt;it could be a CV joint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warped / high spot on the break rotor: this happened on my old Ford product, way back in the day.  The brake rotor was ever so slightly off kilter that, when I would turn the wheel slightly left, the pad would touch the rotor lightly.  Result: a very embarassing squeal / scrape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slightly loose lugnuts: I have a car similar to yours and had a similar sound after rotating my tires some months back.  It was easy to jack that side of the car up and ensure that the nuts were torqued to the right spec.  I put the car back down and the noise was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your car, I would start with point 3.  It's easy and might solve the issue in 15 minutes.  If it doesn't, you haven't made your car &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T13:52:55.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2303" CreationDate="2011-11-07T16:34:51.357" Score="9" ViewCount="98598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently swapped Summer Tires/Rims for my Winter set on my own for the first time. As it should be an easy concept, I went to a &quot;U-Wrench&quot; type shop where you rent a stall with a lift/tools for fairly cheap. I swapped the tires quite easily, using a torque wrench to tighten my lugs after to the swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wheels seem to be tight, and I can't seem to find any loose lugs, but now my steering-wheel wobbles randomly left to right (fast). This happens on new roads and older ones. Could I just be paranoid as I've done this for the first time on my own? Or could it be that my Summer tires are wider than my Winters and I'm just not used to them as of yet? (8.5&quot; on my Summers compared to 7.5&quot; on my Winters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what this could be would be great. Or if someone could just re-assure that I'm being paranoid, that'd help also! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: My vehicle is a 2011 Mitsubishi RVR (Outlander Sport in the States) if  that helps at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1192" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T12:35:05.240" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T00:54:51.003" Title="Wobbly Steering-wheel after changing Rims/Tires?" Tags="|tires|steering-wheel|lug-nut|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2262" CreationDate="2011-11-07T17:01:26.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Failing that, plain ol' lye + hot water will work.  It will also instantly rust any exposed iron.  It shouldn't harm the paint, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T17:01:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2011-11-07T17:12:48.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some inherent risks to buying a car that age regardless of mileage. You should do a good bit of research on common problems and any recalls on the jetta before purchasing it. I'd also recommend checking out both the electrical system and for any rust on vehicle (both are common issues with Volkswagon vehicles). Regardless of mileage it's good practice to do an oil change as soon as possible after buying the car. I'd look at fluid in the cooling system as well, if it's not a nice healthy RED, it's worth the effort to flush it now rather than waiting 'til your thermostat fails or you find the radiator stuck with rust and/or debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, a car w/ low mileage regardless of age should be a good pick up if the price is right. The engines in those Jettas are pretty reliable so if you take care of it properly you should get quite a few years out of that car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T22:43:18.413" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T22:43:18.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2273" CreationDate="2011-11-07T18:15:54.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you use a torque wrench and tighten the wheels to the factory prescribed rating?  Also of note, should be done in a star pattern, and best to go around the star twice (as if some of the early ones need a lot of extra torque, you'll need to hit them again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wobbling is bad news.  However, wide sticky tires do tend to have a bit of a hunting tendency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T18:15:54.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2273" CreationDate="2011-11-07T21:07:45.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too hard, catching curbs, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this happen at certain speeds, or more/less at certain speeds? Are all your tires filled to the spec labelled on the side of the tires (wouldn't cause the issue, but could increase an issue that already exists)? Is the vehicle also pulling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not a large wobble, then it probably wasn't caused by you replacing the wheels. My suggestion would be to get them balanced. If you want a further confirmation, it's very common for unbalanced tires to be fine up to a certain speed then start to shake, so see if it's almost always at the same speed that the shaking starts. This isn't always correct, but I find that 9 times out of 10, you won't get a shake until you reach a certain speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastEditorUserId="434" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T22:19:57.017" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T22:19:57.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2235" CreationDate="2011-11-07T21:58:55.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any reason for this to occur, but here's a wild guess: your battery is dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your car sits overnight, the voltage drops enough to reduce the range of the transmitter.  In the evening, after a long drive, the battery is fully charged and so it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to eliminate this option, try putting a trickle charger on the car overnight, and see if it works the next morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T21:58:55.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1851" CreationDate="2011-11-07T22:41:41.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen something similar to this before. It sounds odd, but try taking a spray bottle filled with water, start your engine, and heavily mist all around your spark plug wires (get EVERYWHERE around the wires) and see if the engine begins to stutter more than usual. I noticed from your profile that you live in the state of New York. Being close to the Atlantic, I'd assume you get some fairly cold, wet days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then at least it's a cheap fix. Just buy some new wires, plug them in (carefully, making sure they're in the correct order), and it shouldn't bother you again (at least until the new ones wear out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T22:41:41.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2283" CreationDate="2011-11-08T04:40:31.447" Score="31" ViewCount="360671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to travel to the east coast and work from there for a duration of 5 months. I can leave my car in covered parking here and ask a friend to start the car for a few minutes every week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What possible issues could I face with the car maintenance when I return? Or what issues can arise since the car will not have been driven for a long period? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Honda Civic 2008 in good condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have the option of shipping the car to east coast - but it would cost me anywhere from 850 - 1000 dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="826" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:02:38.220" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T22:01:16.640" Title="Is it okay to leave a car for 5 months without driving it?" Tags="|maintenance|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-11-08T08:17:23.450" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running it for a few minutes is way to short. It will kill the battery and the oil will degrade. It's better to take it for a half hour drive every few weeks to recharge the battery, avoid 'square' tyres and to keep the oil and hoses in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T08:17:23.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-11-08T13:08:58.680" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like @Alex said, ideally, drive it at least half hour each time.  Less than that and you won't have enough heat/time to burn off all the condensation in the engine (you'll get a yellow gooey substance under your oil filler cap to let you know if that's the case).  You'd want to have it driven at least once a week to keep oil on the cylinder walls (to prevent the beginning of corrosion/pitting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That of course is the ideal.  Realistically, many people do just fine by giving it a good hour long drive, topping off the tank, and then parking it with a trickle charger on the battery for the Winter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting it up for just a few minutes every few weeks will do more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T13:08:58.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-08T16:47:03.200" Score="2" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if SEAT cordoba (99' model) has CAN-BUS interface? &#xA;Where can one find this kind of info?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="719" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T03:22:49.527" Title="CAN-BUS in a SEAT cordoba 99'" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-08T19:05:44.790" Score="2" ViewCount="3384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week, I went to start my car in the morning and it wouldn't immediately start.  After cursing a bit, I held the key for ~10 seconds and it fired up.  I drove home (30 min drive), turned it off for 15min, and started it again by holding the key for longer than normal.  This was the first really cold night of Fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, it started normally until this afternoon.  My car will not currently start, and holding the key produces a constant clicking.  The battery seems to be fine; at least everything lights up.  I tried reseating the battery cables and tapping the starter, but the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 years ago (almost exactly), I replaced the battery (didn't fix it) and the starter (fixed it).  This problem seems to be brought on by cold weather.  I'm wondering if something is causing my starter to fail prematurely, or other explanations to what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1196" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T23:00:57.230" Title="2001 Honda Accord won't start in cold" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-08T19:59:54.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my 02 Honda CR-V for 3 months or so now and have noticed a growing squeak upon application of my brakes. This squeak is different from the normal high-pitched squeal that comes from the metal wear indicator. This sounds much more like when you take a large, old spring and push down on it. It's lower in pitch than the squeak of a spring suspensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press on the brakes from a high speed I can hear it squeaking quickly as the tires rotate. As I slow down, the squeak increases in duration of the sound and in length of time between squeaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at both &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2058/clunking-sound-at-back-of-car-when-applying-brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2035/clunk-noise-from-my-brakes-on-first-application&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this one&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, too. But, it's not a &quot;clunking&quot; sound being made. I wanted to have a sound clip for you, but I've been unsuccessful at getting a recording of the noise :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas, would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="646" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T18:35:47.753" Title="Brakes and low-pitched squeak" Tags="|honda|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:12:07.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storing a car for 5 months shouldn't be a problem, and you're probably going to be better off NOT starting it.  I just parked my car, and it's going to sit until April - and I've been doing that for about the last 10 years with no adverse affects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prepare, fill the tank with gas, add some gas stabilizer, and drive it for a few miles.  You do not want to leave the tank empty, as that will encourage moisture to condense in the tank.  Change the oil &amp;amp; filter, and disconnect the battery.  You could put a trickle charger on the battery if you're so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T23:12:07.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2300" CreationDate="2011-11-09T03:41:01.697" Score="3" ViewCount="4535" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight while driving my 2003 Kia Sedona with the defroster on, suddenly I heard this very loud rumbling which sounded like it was coming from the engine compartment on the passenger side.  My first thought was my exhaust had broken, but as soon as I turned off the heat blower to listen, the sound went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also smelled something burning... not quite electrical, maybe rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled over and checked under the hood, and saw nothing obvious.  No fluids leaking, reservoirs were where they should be, oil was fine, belts looked in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I proceeded to drive home.  Once I got home, while idling in the parking lot, I turned on the heat, immediately heard the noise, and turned it back off again.  In addition, my dash lights and what not dimmed a bit, as if something was pulling on the engine pretty hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might the problem be?  Is there a bearing in something that might have failed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it matters or not, but I was driving through a light rain around 40 MPH when I first noticed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  I discovered this morning that this only happens when the defroster is on.  With just the heat on, it works fine and there is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="230" LastEditorUserId="230" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T14:33:21.283" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T21:25:37.130" Title="Loud rumbling and burning smell when turning on defroster" Tags="|troubleshooting|heat|smell|kia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2292" CreationDate="2011-11-09T04:18:25.893" Score="4" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several developing rust spots on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's the best way to remove the rust / prep the surface?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a wire cup brush with a 1/4&quot;, but it's limited to 4,500 RPM. My tool options are a 1/8&quot; collet Dremel (won't fit), 1/4&quot; die grinder (20,000+ RPM), and a battery drill (600 RPM, and under-performing when I tried it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I limit the die grinder's speed by limiting the air pressure and still have it be usable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I just need to go buy something else entirely?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What should I do for the best chance at a good paint application?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a can of color-matched paint in a rattle can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must I apply primer first? How many coats?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a particular kind / concern about applying it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not relevant to this particular job, but is there a difference in the primer I'd use for metal vs. plastic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T11:21:22.063" Title="Removing rust / prepping for repainting" Tags="|tools|paint|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-11-09T09:09:01.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving a car for several months is quite common amongst classic car owners over here, quite a few of whom take their classics off the road during the winter (although I prefer to use mine all year round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best approach, as mentioned in the other answers is to get someone to give it a good drive every couple of weeks, but failing that, I believe the usual recommendation is to fill the tank, top up the oil &amp;amp; coolant, then jack the car up (to keep the weight off the tyres) and put the battery on trickle charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is wise to put a few silica gel sachets or similar in the car if you live in a damp atmosphere, otherwise you could get mildew forming. Some people also recommend fillnig the engine right up with oil, but if you do that you must not start it until it has been emptied back to the normal level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T09:09:01.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2288" CreationDate="2011-11-09T09:12:27.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like the bearings in the fan have failed, or something is caught in the fan, stopping it from turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got no idea where the heater fan would be on a Sedona, but chances are it'll be behind the dash somewhere - If you're lucky it might be on the engine bay side of the bulkhead, but if it is inside it'll be a pain to get to, and will probably involve talking half the dash apart...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T09:12:27.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2011-11-09T09:18:15.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wire brush is the best option for removing surface rust, but I wouldn't try the brush you have in any of the tools you've got!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of painting, you can just use normal primer, but I would go for a rust inhibiting one (e.g. those sold by Bilt Hamber, Hammerite and others) - If it has started rusting there, there is a reason for it (usually stonechips), so you might as well try and prevent it reoccurring. The particular primer should tell you how many coats to use, but I normally go for around three thin ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal primers are different to plastic ones, as they often incorporate a slight acid to bond better with the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T09:18:15.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2011-11-09T11:21:22.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to all the points made by @NickC - unless you have a huge expanse of rust, a handheld wire brush might be better than anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually keep my cars for a very long time, and this being Scotland - they rust. A lot! So I just keep on top of the sills, arches etc with wire brushes - use them at the first sign of rust and expose the metal back a good inch all round the rust spot; prime it up and respray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always worth keeping an old tin of your car paint to help get matching colour next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T11:21:22.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2011-11-09T12:04:25.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Nick.  My 2000 Taurus had similar symptoms and it was the CV joint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1198" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T12:04:25.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-09T14:50:34.420" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not as simple as the title suggests..  I wouldn't hesitate to drive a few more miles to find ethanol-free gas for the snow blower and generator, but there is none to be found.  After looking around for a bit, I was told the state passed a bill last year requiring all gas stations to use gasoline with ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this doing a lot of damage to the appliances, and is there something I can do to make the gasoline more compatible with the equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1206" OwnerDisplayName="JML" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T12:34:32.413" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T12:11:15.280" Title="Can I use 10% ethanol gasoline on equipment that recommends against it?" Tags="|fuel-system|ethanol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2295" CreationDate="2011-11-09T16:02:37.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://pure-gas.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pure-gas.org/&lt;/a&gt; has a list of ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, your local airport probably has 100LL (100-octane low-lead gasoline without ethanol) for sale, as most reciprocating airplane engines require it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1199" LastEditorUserId="1199" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T12:11:15.280" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T12:11:15.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2299" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:56:53.107" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that this is the sway bar or sway bar links.  Does this sound right?  This happens often and it doesn't matter which way I turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T03:22:25.840" Title="Banging/Snapping Sound When Turning ('04 TrailBlazer)" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2342" CreationDate="2011-11-09T18:02:14.860" Score="4" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car that's been sitting for several months and I just got it working again.  What should I do to ensure that it keeps running well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T07:27:29.867" Title="Car sitting for several months: what should I do to keep it running well?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-11-09T19:44:06.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, I'd suspect the strut bearing plates if it has struts in the front (I'm not familiar with that particular model)...  Those plates usually last about 5-10 years, then start falling apart.  Makes snapping/banging/sometimes even grinding noises when turning.  Eventually the steering will start to bind up and popping noises will start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T19:44:06.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2288" CreationDate="2011-11-09T21:25:37.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a failing A/C compressor.  Assuming the car has A/C...  A/C compressor is used with the defroster to dry the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T21:25:37.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2011-11-09T21:29:15.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a faulty ground somewhere.  I went through the exact same thing with a Mitsubishi Eclipse and it turned out that a ground strap had come loose...  Sometimes it made contact, sometimes it didn't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T21:29:15.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2011-11-09T23:00:57.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some very good advice, I made the assumption that I should have made from the start: the battery was dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jump start got it moving, and the local auto parts store confirmed that the battery wouldn't hold a charge.  A new battery seems to have fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1196" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T23:00:57.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2273" CreationDate="2011-11-10T03:41:42.713" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd mention this since others haven't.  Are they aftermarket wheels?  If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car?  If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered.  The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, depending on the car and wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T03:41:42.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2262" CreationDate="2011-11-10T03:46:47.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a degreaser as Chris mentioned, but would be a bit reluctant to use an engine cleaner since it can be a bit harsh.  You didn't mention if you bed has a liner or what it's made of (newer Tacomas have a composite liner), but it's pretty safe to use Simple Green as a degreaser.  It's also less harsh than many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T03:46:47.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8241" CreationDate="2011-11-10T15:04:35.817" Score="6" ViewCount="50376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting down the DIY-automotive path and was reading about how some people use bubble balancers to balance their own tires at home.  Can anyone speak to the accuracy of these balancers?  Does anyone use them, and if so, how you found them to be precise enough for everyday use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1107" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T02:47:35.740" Title="How reliable are bubble balancers?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2363" CreationDate="2011-11-10T15:40:16.160" Score="3" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2004 Chevy aveo with around 78,000 miles has the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Daytime Running Light indicator (as well as the lights themselves) randomly turn on and off.  This is a slow thing and has never happened rapidly.  It usually happens after five to ten minutes.  This doesn't affect using the lights as normal if they are manually enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the gas light should turn on, instead the check engine light turns on.  No gas light ever comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally when the car is started the HVAC fan doesn't work and won't start at all.  Turning the fan level from 3 to 4 (it's highest setting) creates an audible click that seems to be coming from behind the steering wheel.  This happens while the fan is working, but I decided to include it for completeness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included all of the symptoms here because this seems to me like they might be from a shared electrical issue, however, my experience is mostly in computer repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for these symptoms to stem from the same issue?  If so, which system should I investigate first and what should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="873" LastEditorUserId="873" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T15:24:41.313" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T19:33:12.303" Title="What system should I inspect first for the following issues on a 2004 Chevy Aveo?" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|troubleshooting|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2273" CreationDate="2011-11-10T17:10:26.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with balancing them, especially since you feel it the most in the steering wheel, and make sure to balance them dynamically not just statically.. also make sure your tires dont have uneven wear like 'lumps' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T17:10:26.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-10T17:10:50.587" Score="5" ViewCount="8484" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drive to work involved entering a lot that has a fairly steep grade compared to the pavement. As such, in low riding vehicles, you need to enter it fairly slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, recently, I can enter it at &amp;lt; 10mph, and it still sounds like I'm scraping something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the Caravan is not a particularly low vehicle, so it really shouldn't be scraping anything. In addition I've inspected the underside for damage, and there doesn't seem to be anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately it's been happening more frequently, and I've also noticed the sound while entering my Apartment's lot, which is flat, but a little bumpy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front suspension has a lot of travel (e.g: bumps are fairly comfortable, but the car is 'rebounding' for a long while after the bump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose if the front suspension components are in need of replacement? I have no service history for this vehicle, so I'm not sure when they were last replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T23:03:28.273" Title="How to diagnose &quot;Creaking&quot; / &quot;Scraping&quot; sound when entering parking lots?" Tags="|suspension|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2308" CreationDate="2011-11-10T17:54:21.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The front suspension has a lot of travel (e.g: bumps are fairly&#xA;  comfortable, but the car is 'rebounding' for a long while after the&#xA;  bump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go ahead and call it: you've used up your shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people forget that a shock (aka strut aka damper depending on your particular flavor) is a consumable part.  It exists to damp out the cyclic motion caused by the springs holding up the car.  When those parts wear out, they become less efficient at damping out that motion (which you have observed) and they usually present other symptoms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I just replaced the struts on my wife's Outback.  Each one manifested the same issues: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient damping (the bouncing continues and the suspension feels mushy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noisy motion (scraping sound when going over a larger bounce at slow speeds).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected lifetime of the parts used on her car is approximately 50K miles of normal driving.  Considering that it had been more than 60K, she was right in calling her local mechanic (i.e., me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a simple confirmation procedure that you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push down one corner of the car and release.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch the motion: the corner of the car should start low, come up and return to rest.  Any additional bouncing = bad shocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: following-up on the question below&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all shocks have some sort of fluid (gas, oil or some combination) to assist in the damping of vibrations.  If the shock is compressed, this fluid is forced to pass through a small passage (e.g., a hole) from the chamber under compression.  The damper attached to the storm door in the front of my house illustrates this well: you can hear the air hissing as the damper allows the door to return closed slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see oil on the outside of the shock, that's usually a bad sign.  On my car, I would expect leakage to manifest at the top of the strut.  This is where the moving piston arm enters the main body of the strut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T23:03:28.273" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T23:03:28.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2011-11-10T18:58:34.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The race team that I buy my tires through (they do periodic group buys), will do free mounting and balancing with a bubble balancer.  I've taken advantage of that before and have no complaints.  Couldn't tell any bit of difference between a set of tires dynamically balanced and those bubble balanced.  The only apparent downside was that it took longer to do the balancing process with the bubble balancer vs. a dynamic balancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T18:58:34.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-10T21:08:33.037" Score="3" ViewCount="7175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the brake system supposed to support as much pressure as you can physically (with your foot) give it? I would think yes, but I'm curious if there is a specification of some kind or even if its possible to do damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My recent experience that lead to the question...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to sell an old used car I've had for a couple years which (i thought) was in good working order. The potential buyer was checking things out and pushed really hard on the brake pedal. We heard a pop and the pedal went to the floor. I look under the car and sure enough there's a puddle of fluid. The brake line along the wheel well rusted through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T13:01:51.877" Title="How much pressure can car brakes take?" Tags="|brakes|braking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2311" CreationDate="2011-11-10T21:27:41.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes, braking hard in an emergency would be.... hindered by losing the brakes.&#xA;Long answer: It is very much a case by case basis. The short answer is what it is &quot;suppose&quot; to do. In reality, it depends on the age, condition and quality of parts. For instance, a brake-line with one of those metal weaves on it I would suspect would be able to take some serious pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T21:27:41.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2295" CreationDate="2011-11-10T22:06:17.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to try when purchasing gas for small engines:  go for the Super/High Octane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that some pumps have a generic &quot;May contain up to 10% Ethanol&quot; on the pump, while other locations have it attached only to the location that pump regular.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T14:27:07.730" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T14:27:07.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2347" CreationDate="2011-11-10T22:08:24.630" Score="20" ViewCount="511285" Body="&lt;p&gt;The infamous ELM327 OBDII device came without any paper, just a crappy CD with no document related to the device (only some software and drivers thrown on the CD almost randomly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the following codes without being able to pair it with my HTC Desire HD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;0000, ..., 9999&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;1234, 2345, 3456, 4567, 5678, 6789, 7890&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other PINs should I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T11:43:58.067" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:26:30.880" Title="What is the pin or keycode for ELM327 bluetooth OBDII adapter?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2311" CreationDate="2011-11-11T08:25:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer limits the move of the pedal. You can test it with breaks unattached - the pedals will freely move only until a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that manufacturer plans the system in such a way that you can't possibly push the pedal any further than the braking-system could handle without it giving up. The breaks pedal should handle any amount of pressure that is considered normal for a adult driver in good shape. That is a good test though - you would not like to discover you breaks fail in an emergency-braking where you don't have spare time to think about &quot;am I pushing too hard now?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T08:25:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-11T08:30:56.547" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a solution that would integrate default car audio system with an Apple iPhone, providing this functionality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play music/playlists from iPhone at CD quality (no BT for FM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;charge iPhone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use car wheel controls to control the play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;read track information on car display&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT handsfree (AD2P) functionality that stops the music&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;answer/reject/suspend/resume call using wheel controls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to work on Peugeot (2004)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) Multiple BT connections, be able to pair it with more than one Phone (Multipoint)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommend a solution only if you or a fried used it and it was satistfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I am aware that at least one product Xcarlink is supposed to do most of these, except the BT Multipoint feature which was confirmed as not supported by them. Still, if you have one please give your review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it would be nice to provide a price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T08:38:26.773" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T22:35:51.493" Title="Solution to integrate car audio with iPod/IPhone at CD quality and optional bluetooth car kit functionally" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2311" CreationDate="2011-11-11T13:01:51.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my car was just about 10 years old, I was braking VERY hard (hardest I'd ever pushed on the brake pedal) coming off a straight into a sharp 90 left and I heard/felt a soft &quot;pop&quot;.  The brake pedal dropped even lower and I lost a small amount of braking capacity.  Turns out one of the seals in the master cylinder blew out.  Fortunately they've been building them with an extra seal for redundancy (albeit at slightly reduced capacity) since sometime in the 60's or 70's...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what it's tested to, but as it ages, it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; lose capacity.  The harder you push, the closer you get to those (unknown) limits.  The more often you press hard, the more you're weakening those parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T13:01:51.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-11-11T14:57:33.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was almost ready to order Xcarlink because it seems to be the product with the best integration I stopped because I discovered these two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bluetooth module is connected directly to the interface and so audio can only be heard from a call if the radio is in CD changer/AUX mode. So, if you are listening to the radio, you'll miss the call, if you are using Navigation on your phone and switch to the radio, you hear only the radio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No BT Multipoint - The Bluetooth module cannot keep connections with more than one device. So if you have several Phones you'll be able to take calls only from one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to edit this response!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T21:03:24.307" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T21:03:24.307" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-11T14:57:33.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2320" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:19:34.230" Score="2" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copper 2011 Suzuki SX4 Crossover.  I bought it in May, and it is already scratched, in one spot all the way through to the metal.  I'd like to get some kind of touch-up or clear coat on it to prevent rust, but I'm at a loss to find a good product.  Can anyone recommend something that's easy to apply?  I'm useless when it comes to auto repair, so preferably I would like to fine that can be easily brushed on and dries in a few minutes.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T19:50:57.730" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T19:50:57.730" Title="Body Paint Scratch Repair" Tags="|suzuki|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:29:00.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local Suzuki dealer should be able to supply the touch-up paint that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T19:29:00.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2336" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:36:51.897" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copper 2011 Suzuki SX4 Crossover.  I bought it in May, and I accidentally put a pretty big scratch on one of the aluminum alloy wheels the other day when I hit the curb.  Can this be repaired easily?  Is there a way that I can buff or polish it out?  The simpler the better.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2011-11-11T19:51:18.400" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T18:47:05.533" Title="Aluminum Alloy Wheel Scratch Repair" Tags="|wheels|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:50:43.223" Score="14" ViewCount="358840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Suzuki SX4 Crossover AWD with MT.  Sometimes when I start it up, begin moving forward, or quickly decelerate I can hear what sounds like water (or some other liquid) moving from one place to another (can't quite tell where) under the dash or maybe just behind the firewall.  I took it to the Suzuki service center (almost 2 hour drive from my home), and they told me that the A/C coolant was low.  They refilled it and sent me on my way.  However, I still hear the sloshing sound behind the dash.  Does anyone have any ideas on what this might be?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ADDITIONAL INFO&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently noticed that when this &quot;running water&quot; sound occurs that it is more prominent when the engine is running faster (e.g. during acceleration).  This leads me to believe maybe this has something to do with the water pump, or some other liquid pump, that is run by the engine and not moving enough liquid to fill the pipe, hence a sloshing / running water sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T17:29:54.273" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T13:35:11.503" Title="Sloshing Sound Under Dash" Tags="|noise|suzuki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-11T21:27:55.027" Score="1" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car starts, then 3-5 seconds later stutters &amp;amp; dies. It can do this up to 5 times. So I keep revs at 2,000 until warm. It starts fine rest of day. Have 2 new batteries? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1213" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T23:05:37.827" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T23:05:37.827" Title="Cold &amp; damp starting problem with Delica" Tags="|engine|starting|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2329" CreationDate="2011-11-12T05:22:20.130" Score="4" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine riding your motor bike from plain ground to an uphill path, initially it climbs the road in top gear. Then gradually the bike begins to slow down and the sound from the 100cc petrol engine begins to change. Still if you dont shift the gears the engine will stall, however long before the engine stalls you hear a distinct ringing sound (clanking metallic sound) from the engine (the sound is almost same for all petrol engine models). How is this sound produced. Is it from the valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1214" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T12:59:40.267" Title="How is the clanging sound produced in the engine?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T15:06:59.363" Score="1" ViewCount="2754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had the clutch replaced 2 months ago on my 1995 Ford Ranger.  I went to the store yesterday and when I went to leave, the clutch pedal wouldn't depress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1216" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T20:29:36.180" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:29:36.180" Title="Ford Ranger clutch pedal won't depress" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2328" CreationDate="2011-11-12T22:03:56.050" Score="3" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom's 2001 Sienna won't start. When I try to start the car, I get a very rapid clicking noise. The lights are very dim; in fact, the dashboard lights flicker constantly and are almost going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a noob to automobiles, so I'm not sure what to look for. I tried looking at the positive battery terminal; it seemed pretty firm/tight. There was some greenish crystaline stuff around the terminal; not sure what that was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure, there's a problem with the power; but is it the battery, or something else? And what's that green stuff on the battery terminal? Should I try jump-starting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastEditorUserId="1065" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T23:47:08.043" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T23:47:08.043" Title="2001 Sienna Won't Start, Dim Dashboard Lights" Tags="|battery|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2327" CreationDate="2011-11-12T22:57:02.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;99% of the time, the symptoms that you describe are a dead or dying battery. Charging the battery or jumpstarting the car should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'green stuff' is caused by the terminal oxidising - it's not good to have it on there but I doubt it'll affect the connection enough to make the battery unusable. Often, carefully pouring hot water over it will dissolve it, but depending on your outside temperatures I'd be careful with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery should have two terminals so good luck find the other one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T22:57:02.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2011-11-12T23:06:55.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark knock, or pre-detonation. It can happen when the timing is too far advanced, the octane rating of the fuel is too low, the air/fuel mixture is off which happens when you are lugging the engine (just as you described), see &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Engine_knocking#Causes_of_pre-ignition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia for details and more causes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and&#xA;  at a precise time in the piston's stroke cycle. The peak of the&#xA;  combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the&#xA;  four-stroke cycle. The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic&#xA;  &quot;pinging&quot; sound, and cylinder pressure increases dramatically. Effects&#xA;  of engine knocking range from inconsequential to completely&#xA;  destructive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Engine_knocking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T23:06:55.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2011-11-12T23:44:10.907" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your AC drain may be stopped up. Your AC evaporator condenses water when the warm moist air passes over it, this happens in the normal operation of the AC. There is a drain that is suppose to drain the water outside the car, when it gets stopped up water collects in the evaporator case under the dash, it will eventually drain somewhere, most likely on your carpet inside the car, in the mean time you will be able to hear it sloshing around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look under you hood, or from the underside of the car for a rubber tube sticking out of the firewall, you can unplug it with a coat hanger, or piece of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below may be what you have, if not it will at least give you an idea of what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWfD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.importmeet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;amp;t=53&quot;&gt;Picture Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T13:41:21.960" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T13:41:21.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-14T00:16:21.937" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;How expensive would it be to replace a manual transmission system to an automatic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1218" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:36:11.603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:36:11.603" Title="Cost to alter the transmission system" Tags="|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-11T08:02:11.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2178" CreationDate="2011-11-14T02:36:54.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material of the lugs are not the import thing.  Lugs come in various materials such as steel, forged aluminum, or even titanium. The important thing is to make sure you get lugs with the correct thread pitch, thread size, and seat. The seat is very important so the lugs sit properly against the wheel and don't come loose. There are 3 different types of seats: acorn, mag, or ball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T02:36:54.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2331" CreationDate="2011-11-14T14:31:26.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cars it's a major operation and quite expensive.  There's usually body and mount modifications that need to be made.  You'll need the new trans and all the controls.  Some cars have a different ECU and wiring harness for each transmission.  Possibly vacuum system modifications.  Sometimes it even requires changing out drive/halfshafts, etc.  What make/model do you want to do this too, and how much of the work can you do yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T14:31:26.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2298" CreationDate="2011-11-14T16:16:52.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive it at least once a week for an hour and maintain it per the owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T16:16:52.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2286" CreationDate="2011-11-14T17:07:19.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do your rotors have spots on them? Sometimes when the rotors overheat, they develop spots that cause different effects. Sometimes the vehicle will shutter and vibrate, other times it can make noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T17:07:19.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2321" CreationDate="2011-11-14T17:12:44.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a guy that would come in and do magin on BMW wheels for $50. He used what I can only compare to bondo, and then painted the wheel. Looked as if nothing ever happened. I would check with and auto parts store to see if they sell anything like this, if not you can probably call a dealer see if they know someone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T17:12:44.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2011-11-14T17:16:07.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You never know where used parts come from, unless you remove them, and even then you never know their state. I would suggest a new one, and hopefully from a reputable manufacturer. Also, I rarely saw motors go bad, as it was usually the window regulator that failed and would seize the window. The labor is usually around the same, but motors are about 3 times the cost of the regulator on most vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T17:16:07.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2341" CreationDate="2011-11-14T18:10:36.247" Score="2" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this 1994 Ford Crown Victoria (police interceptor). I wanted to replace &lt;strong&gt;upper&lt;/strong&gt; ball joints but there's this thing I can't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On ebay and other part dealers websites, some uppper ball joints (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDELCO-45D0072-Ball-Joint-Upper-/170689967963?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;fits=Year:1994%7CMake%3aFord%7CModel%3aCrown%20Victoria%7CSubmodel%3aPolice%20Interceptor&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&amp;amp;hash=item27bdea375b#ht_1150wt_1270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acdelco&lt;/a&gt;) are marked as &lt;strong&gt;driver side&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;passenger side&lt;/strong&gt; and others (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-K8600-Upper-Ball-Joint-/400220660922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;fits=Year%3A1994%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ACrown+Victoria%7CSubmodel%3APolice+Interceptor&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&amp;amp;hash=item5d2f02a4ba#ht_1247wt_931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;moog&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT-MCS-104156-Ball-Joint-Upper-/170640005076?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;fits=Year%3A1994%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ACrown+Victoria%7CSubmodel%3APolice+Interceptor&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&amp;amp;hash=item27baefd7d4#ht_1134wt_931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;motorcraft&lt;/a&gt;) are not. So is it safe to assume they can be installed on both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1219" LastEditorUserId="1219" LastEditDate="2011-11-14T22:25:06.620" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T22:25:06.620" Title="Are these upper ball joints universal (driver/passenger side) or is it a mistake?" Tags="|ford|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="256" CreationDate="2011-11-14T19:50:27.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just realized that I never followed up on this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the rattle was coming from the connectors holding down the large trim piece that lines the base of the windshield.  It's a long piece of curved plastic with vents for the defroster and happens to have the VIN tag attached to it.  If you pull this piece (using a wrapped screwdriver and some care), you'll see that it's held in place by some fiddly plastic fittings that insert into clips attached to the rest of the dash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These little plastic bits are not held firmly in place and will rattle like a can of dried peas if you shake them.  However, a dab of silicone on each one greatly reduces the rattle while not interfering with their ability to reconnect to the rest of the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T19:50:27.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2348" CreationDate="2011-11-14T20:08:30.763" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a dead battery this morning and plugged in my '03 Focus for the first time to charge up enough to get the dang thing out of the garage.  I was a little bit worried when I plugged it in because I heard a strange sound coming out of some place between the grill and the engine and I'm not sure what that was could anyone enlighten me?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery was dead to the point that the car wouldn't start, but the lights and radio still worked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T02:33:53.187" Title="Sound made in Ford Focus when plugged in" Tags="|ford|battery|focus|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2338" CreationDate="2011-11-14T22:16:27.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a ball joint that couldn't be used on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford is notorious for specifying different part numbers for each side, or, appending an L or an R to the part number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T22:16:27.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2298" CreationDate="2011-11-15T07:27:29.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace all the fluids (don't forget the transmission and rear diff!) and the battery and check all the hoses for cracks. Drain the gas tank en fill it up with new fuel. Check the tires, they will be in bad shape and might need replacement. And of course drive with it, that's what cars are meant for. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T07:27:29.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2344" CreationDate="2011-11-15T19:03:12.083" Score="8" ViewCount="21402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own two cars: a 2003 Acura TL and a 2005 Volvo S60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told that depending on what car you drive, a failed timing belt can result in immediate engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know (not just about my two cars, but in general) how I can know if a failed timing belt can result in immediate engine damage for a particular car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T04:19:20.527" Title="How to know if timing belt failure will result in immediate engine damage?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2011-11-15T19:48:38.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with the manufacturer to see if it's an interference engine or not.  Even so, that's not an absolute guarantee.  Occasionally someone with an interference engine will get lucky and not have the valves and pistons attempt to occupy the same space at the same time.  I've also heard anecdotal reports of non-interference engines suffering damage when losing timing belts at high RPM.  Not sure what the mechanism of damage would be though.  Could be inversion of cause and result...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2011-11-16T12:49:48.027" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T12:49:48.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2268" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:27:16.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all the MP3s play on your computer as well? Could it be an encoding problem going from the previous format to MP3s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T20:27:16.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2011-11-15T23:04:05.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; a broken timing belt always means some sort of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Brian says, interference engines are obviously at risk of the most straightforward damage: pistons hitting valves with great energy, causing ma$$ive destruction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyB6syDyP0o&quot;&gt;Here is a cautionary video&lt;/a&gt; illustrating some of the parts that can be immediately broken, causing a appalling domino effect of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the pistons and valves can't technically occupy the same space, a broken timing belt is effectively a high energy whip slashing around in your engine bay.  The easiest way to eyeball what could be damaged by a broken belt is to look at all the components that are dependent on, connected to or adjacent to the belt.  Assume that they'll all be hurt and that, in their death throes, they will lash out at other blameless parts purely out of spite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T23:04:05.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2011-11-15T23:50:19.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the one pictured at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elm327-bluetooth.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elm327 Bluetooth&lt;/a&gt; website?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so then the passcode should be 1234 although technically they say that the passcode is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot; 1234 &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a while since I paired a bluetooth device but I think you only get 4 digits to work with, not 6, and I think only numerics are allowed so no spaces either, which brings us back to &quot;1234&quot;... which you've already tried.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have a read over the website above and check out the Bluetooth User Manual page, the instructions don't exactly match connecting to a phone like you are trying to do, but maybe they'll give a clue to a step you might have missed or something.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sorry I couldn't be of more help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T23:50:19.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2340" CreationDate="2011-11-16T02:33:53.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments described, you probably plugged in the block heater. Perhaps the heater warmed up the entire engine compartment over time, including the battery. Batteries deliver less current when cold, so it might have been just under the current required to turn the engine. Guess you'll find out if it starts again tomorrow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1205" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T02:33:53.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2350" CreationDate="2011-11-16T17:18:19.913" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Bronco, the 9&quot; rear axle has the tapered roller bearings and has started leaking. With these bearings (Timken Set 20) is there supposed to be an inner axle seal? I have just been using the ones that came with the bearings that go on the outside of the bearing. Also, should the oil level be high enough that some runs down the tubes to the bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:38:36.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:38:36.423" Title="Leaking axle bearings" Tags="|axle|seal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2011-11-16T18:48:19.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...is there supposed to be an inner axle seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;should the oil level be high enough that some runs down the tubes to&#xA;  the bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's what keep those bearings lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T18:48:19.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-17T00:46:27.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;On-Board Diagnostics-II (OBD-II)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On-Board Diagnostics-II is a standard for vehicle self-diagnostic data capabilities as well as real-time data reporting capabilities.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Protocols&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD-II standard allows for five different signalling (or data) protocols to be transmitted through the OBD-II interface. These are:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1850  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PWM SAE J1850 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VPW ISO 9141-2 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 14230 KWP2000 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765 CAN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;OBD-II Scan Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern scan tools are capable of reading the 5 different data protocols. Most are capable of resetting/clearing fault codes while more advanced tools are capable of setting ECU parameters, controlling other on board units such as ABS and Air Bags as well as real time monitoring and data logging of various engine parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Reading&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A list of PIDs can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A list of trouble codes can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T03:44:31.183" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:44:31.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-17T00:46:27.117" Score="0" Body="On-Board Diagnostics-II (OBD-II). Questions usually involve scan tools, their use and their compatibility, as well as how to interpret Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)." OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="649" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T01:03:17.783" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T01:03:17.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2358" CreationDate="2011-11-17T14:57:15.370" Score="4" ViewCount="4447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was driving home and noticed that the heater wasn't blowing any hot air. I turned it up and nothing happened. I turned the fan-speed dial off, then turned it back on and hot air started to blow then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got in my car this morning to go to work it again wasn't blowing hot air but was solved by turning the fan off then on again. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? It's nice currently that I can get it working but I don't want to discover some day in the dead of winter that it's suddenly quit completely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Buick Century&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1223" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T15:52:45.427" Title="Car Heater Stopped Working...Kind of" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2203" CreationDate="2011-11-17T15:24:38.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, you can read the code without a scanner. The airbag light or ABS light (and even the check engine light) will all blink the codes when the OBD-II connector is properly bridged. For example if it blinks 5 time slow and 1 time fast you have a 51 code. All you'll need is a paper clip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video below will demonstrate how to do it. I just did this and it works great. Once you obtain the code you can go online and look up what it means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vehix411.com/how-to-diagnose-or-scan-the-abs-and-srs-airbag-light-on-honda-or-acura/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.vehix411.com/how-to-diagnose-or-scan-the-abs-and-srs-airbag-light-on-honda-or-acura/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Element and I was actually able to just reset the light because the sensor misfired. This video will show you how to reset the light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vehix411.com/how-to-reset-the-airbag-control-module-codes-on-honda-civic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.vehix411.com/how-to-reset-the-airbag-control-module-codes-on-honda-civic/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehix411 is a great website for do it yourself videos!! You&quot;ll be surprised how easy it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T19:38:01.213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T19:38:01.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-17T17:57:37.607" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to drain the master cylinder on this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:08:02.737" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T04:08:02.737" Title="Draining master cylinder (2005 Malibu)" Tags="|brakes|epsilon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3179" CreationDate="2011-11-17T20:28:01.607" Score="2" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got a 2002 Chrysler Voyager with something of an odd problem. The blower resistor likes to burn out. It's easy to replace, but after doing so, our vent speeds go out one by one, until all we have left is FULL BLAST. It seems to take between 500 and 5000 miles for the resistor to blow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The HVAC works just fine in all other ways; the only other somewhat notable thing is that when it rains, when we first start driving the car, water will pour into the passenger-side footwell from under the dashboard. Maybe that's vent-related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1226" LastEditorUserId="1226" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T22:39:22.160" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T14:27:49.663" Title="Blower resistor blowing on '02 Chrysler Voyager" Tags="|electrical|hvac|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2011-11-17T22:53:11.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fan is blowing, but no hot air is coming out that means that no hot water is making it into the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of 3 reasons for this, each with a different solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, and easiest to check:  make sure that there's enough coolant in the car.  If it's low, there may not be enough fluid to circulate through the core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the valve that opens to allow hot water into the core could be blocked (or the core itself could be blocked).  You may be able to check this by undoing the intake and return lines from the core and seeing if you can get water flowing, perhaps by putting a hose on the intake.  Be careful about applying too much water pressure, though - you don't want to blow up the core and end up with a very wet interior and a very expensive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you have an automatic climate control system, it could be a sensor that thinks there's too much heat going though the system, so is cutting off the flow of how water into the heater core.  If it's an old mechanical system, the actuator may have come loose, so it's no longer operating the valve.  If it's a sensor or other electrical gremlin, you'll probably need to take it to the dealer, but if it's a mechanical system you can probably trace the link &amp;amp; see if the valve is operating properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T22:53:11.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-18T01:48:13.133" Score="0" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the GEM module and the ignition. WHen ever I push the clutch the starter engages even with the key out. The driver side window does not roll up and the lights come on and off. What else do I need to check for or does anyone know of a site I can go to to help me solve my problem? Thanks Eric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1227" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T14:25:18.620" Title="clutch being depressed engages starter" Tags="|clutch|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-11-18T17:40:06.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2011-11-18T13:53:18.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you install the correct module? If so, warranty it and get a replacement. The vehicle is equipped to disable the starter unless the clutch is depressed. Your circuit is stuck on START and becomes aactive when the clutch override is disabled by the clutch being depressed. As Rory mentioned - it is impossible to offer a definitive diagnosis without being able to lay hands upon the vehicle, but I echo his sentiment that you have a defective or incorrect module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1229" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T14:25:18.620" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T14:25:18.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2386" CreationDate="2011-11-18T14:36:19.290" Score="2" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am selecting an engine to go into this vehicle and I want to know what my options are.  What I know is that the engine that was a 2.5L, The transmission is standard.  Wikipedia says the 2.5L engine in the 1998 series was a KL-G4.  In looking for a replacement Engine, I have found another k-series, namely a KL-ZE.  How can I know what I am getting into if I decide to buy a different model engine in the K-series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T18:46:05.757" Title="How can I know what engine is compatible with a 2001 Mazda 626" Tags="|engine|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-18T18:51:12.807" Score="4" ViewCount="24320" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light is on in my 1989 Ford E250 Econoline van. I heard from a mechanic (who changed my oil) that there's a &quot;key cycling&quot; process that will cause the light to flash in a certain pattern that encodes the cause of the check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does &quot;key cycling&quot; work and where can I find a decoding scheme so I can tell what the problem is?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Based on Jaime's answer, I consider the second half of this question to be answered. However, I still haven't gotten the key cycling to work (even after trying Dave's suggestions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1230" LastEditorUserId="1230" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T21:18:51.627" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T23:09:12.743" Title="Key cycling to determine cause of check engine light" Tags="|ford|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2306" CreationDate="2011-11-18T19:04:56.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check are the grounds anytime you have seemingly unrelated systems not working, working sporadically, or as I like to call it, any time you have gremlins running around in the electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the ground distribution for G202 pictured below you can see that Instrument panel cluster, and the daytime running lamp module share the same ground and are connected through what I think is a splice connector SP202. The splice connector and G202 is the first place to inspect for a loose or corroded connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z03TZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blower motor also share that same ground, not sure why it's not on the diagram above though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4OFw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am not sure of is where G202 is, I can tell you it's under the dash based on the numbering system GM uses. 100s are in the engine compartment, 200s are between the A and B post, 300s are between the C and D posts, 400s in the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start out tracing the ground wire from the blower motor as that is most likely the easiest to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T19:04:56.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2306" CreationDate="2011-11-18T19:33:12.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potential exists for the problem to be in the alternator voltage regulator.  I've noted Mitsubishis often have really random dash light behavior when the voltage regulator starts going out (especially if the voltage swings to the high side, like anything over 15 volts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T19:33:12.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T17:24:30.507" Score="8" ViewCount="27645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a series II 2008 Toyota Prius. I purchased a second key off of eBay and would like to program it for ignition and remote control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1232" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T13:19:11.253" Title="How do I add a second key fob to my 2008 Prius" Tags="|toyota|key|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2365" CreationDate="2011-11-19T17:27:19.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these instructions on a forum. After several tries, I was able to get both the ignition and keyless entry to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;Yes it Does for a 2009 Prius. Also BIG Thing: Have only the old remote and new or USED remote in the car. No Cell or Phone or Blue Tooth&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert old fob into slot and remove it 4 times in a row, and insert it a fifth time but leave it in there!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open and close driver door 6 times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old fob from slot. Car is in fob programming mode at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert new fob and leave in the slot for a full minute. Watch the blinking red anti-theft light on the dashboard. When it stops flashing and goes dark, your new fob is all set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a minute, press the power once and open door, or vise-vera, Hey it worked for me, but only with the FOB inserted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the new fob and you're done. You should test both fobs to be sure they work properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the door lock functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fob (for remotely unlocking/locking the doors)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the driver door with no fob in slot and the driver door unlocked and opened. Other doors can be locked or unlocked, it doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert old fob into slot and remove it twice within 5 seconds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close and open driver door twice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert and remove old fob once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close and open driver door twice again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert old fob in slot and close door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without pressing the brake, press power button, wait a second, press it again, wait a second, press it a third time to turn car back off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old fob from slot. You'll be in &quot;add mode&quot; at this point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car should lock and unlock doors TWICE to verify it is in add mode. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press both buttons on new fob simultaneously for a second and a half!. &#xA;11 Within 3 seconds, press only the lock symbol button. yes it does matter which!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car should respond with one quick lock/unlock to verify that the new fob is all set. If the car responds with two lock/unlocks, that means it didn't work. I don't know how to troubleshoot that problem. Maybe just try again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To end this programming, open a door or put fob in the slot. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy the savings from NOT buying a fob from the dealership!!!!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want metal keys, DO not buy them from ebay, they quoted me $7.92 CUT by them from dealer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1232" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T09:56:52.083" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T09:56:52.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T18:54:30.530" Score="2" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I put the rear side window's lower frame back on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhcPv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1231" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T15:40:42.997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T15:40:42.997" Title="BMW E30 coupe rear side window frame" Tags="|bmw|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2379" CreationDate="2011-11-19T19:56:28.267" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is doing great but now suddenly I hear this big tuk sound from the back as if something has misplaced. It happens repeatedly with intervals. I examined my car underneath and I blame this one join which seem to be out of place. I am attaching photos. The car is Mazda 626, year 2000.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXmlP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The join clearly is out of its place. I dont know what it is&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the read left (the same thing) which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPtaL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear left which is in place&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me what this is? Is the car ok to drive to mechanic (5 miles)? Can I fix it myself? How much would it cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T00:35:41.050" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T13:13:37.150" Title="A big tuck sound from the back" Tags="|noise|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2362" CreationDate="2011-11-19T21:12:53.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how it would be like on 1989 Ford E250 but on Dodge 1998, this is like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the Ignition Key to on, turn it back off in quick sucession&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeate the above step 2 more times (total 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the forth, leave the ignition switch key on ON&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the Engine Indicator light will start flashing. Five short flashes, followed by a pause and then five short flashes, followed by pause and then five short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let say you got 4 flash, pause, 3 flashes, pause 5 flashes, that indications engine code 435. You will look this code for you car and it will indicate the problem part of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car has problem in more than one area, these sequence will continue untill all codes are covered. You will need a pen and paper to note the code down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not entirely sure if your 1989 vehicle will have this system because. I believe the computer got started in 1998 vehicles and later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T21:12:53.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T21:23:42.287" Score="1" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very common problem with Dodge Neon cars. They flood in the back seats big time. I had this problem with 1998 Dode Neon (manual), then bough 2000 Neon. Inititially it did not flood at all but now it does. I searched the forms, could not find a  solution anywhere. Does anyone know why Neons flood with water in rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T16:57:54.017" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T03:46:53.330" Title="2000 Dodge Neon flooding problem" Tags="|dodge|neon|water-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2367" CreationDate="2011-11-20T01:55:08.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean the chrome piece, if so there are clips that must hold on to frame. If the clips were damaged, you might need to replace them. Can you show a picture of the bottom, as its been a while since I replaced one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T01:55:08.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-20T12:30:16.503" Score="6" ViewCount="1670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my '92 Geo Prizm 5-speed manual transmission. I could use some advice from someone knowledgeable about manual transmissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DURING cranking, in Neutral, the car races forward as if in gear and it will only stop rolling if I push in the clutch. Stuck in gear maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My car is parked in the driveway on an incline without E-brake on and it won't roll backwards, I can't even push her down the hill. Only when I push in the clutch will it move. Clutch binding?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, with the engine &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt; I can shift into every gear fine except the shifter will just barely go into first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: clutch fluid is level and I bled the slave cylinder, no help, I put a new clutch assembly on 2000 miles ago. Tranny was about half full on gear oil when this happened due to leaky axle seal. I need to know if the tranny is shot or if this is a clutch issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1233" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:30:14.293" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:30:14.293" Title="Which is it: transmission, clutch, or slave cylinder?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|geo|clutch-hydraulics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2011-11-20T12:37:02.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting problems in damp weather usually point to the ignition system. Moisture in the air can get into worn plug wires, cracks in distributor cap can let moisture in also. To test for this start the car and pop the hood, with engine running, spray water onto the suspected areas and see if engine stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1233" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T12:37:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1771" CreationDate="2011-11-20T13:38:05.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume youre talking about a parasitic drain. A &quot;short&quot; is easy to find because it will blow a fuse. Take a compass around the wiring and it will point to the location of a &quot;short&quot;. Another easy way to find a short is using a guass gage(google it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1233" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T13:38:05.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2373" CreationDate="2011-11-20T17:54:45.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DURING cranking, in Neutral, the car races forward&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission is not in neutral, no other explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the shifter linkage, it may be out of adjustment, or bent. Those are the most likely causes IMO based on the fact that you put a clutch in the vehicle and the linkage would have been disconnected and reconnected in that process. The transmission could be internally stuck in gear but that's less likely, but possible if you have had a bearing seized from the low fluid levels you found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only when I push in the clutch will it move. Clutch binding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission is in gear, the clutch is operating normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch's only job is to connect/disconnect the input shaft of the transmission to/from the flywheel. When the clutch is engaged (pedal up) the flywheel and the input shaft are one. When the clutch is disengaged (pedal down) the crankshaft and the input shaft are not flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the transmission is in neutral the input shaft isn't connected to the output shaft (the part connected to the wheels), so the clutch would not have an effect on the car rolling. With the transmission in gear (not in neutral) the tires are connected to the input shaft, and the input shaft is connected to the crankshaft via the flywheel. So if you start the car for instance it rolls forward, if you push in the clutch pedal it allows the car to roll, because pushing the clutch pedal disconnects the input shaft from the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And lastly, with the car off I can shift into every gear fine except&#xA;  the shifter will just barely go into first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More support to my first point the shifter linkage is out of adjustment or bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:38:27.313" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:38:27.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2378" CreationDate="2011-11-21T07:15:44.840" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if there are less expensive equivalents of the Hankook Ventus R-S2 high performance tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 215 / 35ZR18 84Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I popped one of mine, and it is unrepairable, as the damage is on the side wall.  A new tire costs around $280.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1234" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T10:34:16.527" Title="Tyre equivalency" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2011-11-21T10:34:16.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Word of advice: Never ever replace one tyre on the same axis! Always replace both the left and the right tyres. Replacing one tyre increases wear-and-tear on the differential, worses the handling and last but not least: It  can be very dangerous! With a AWD, replace all 4 tyres at the same time. When the other tyres are only a few thousand (less than 3000) old this is unneccessary of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your question: Depends on what you're looking for and what your budget is. I never buy cheap tyres, those 4 little pieces of rubber are the only contact points you have with the road surface and they must be of very good quality. Given the durability of a modern tyre the costs per mile/kilometer are neglible. Take the pain, buy two new tyres and be very happy during the winter you bought some decent tyres. And remember, with FWD or AWD you always put the new/best tyres at the back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T10:34:16.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2368" CreationDate="2011-11-21T13:13:37.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, it's looks like the links between the frame and stabilizer bar. I've change mine recently (on a Toyota Land Cruiser) because the bushing where in terrible shape. Change both side while you are there, 4 bolts total. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=ATM1031307_0257628974&amp;amp;An=599001%20102000%2050042%202042012%2025007&amp;amp;Ar=AND%28P_RecType:A%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from NAPA&lt;/a&gt; (Sway Bar Link - Rear Susp) for a 2000 Mazda 626 for ~35$/each:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSLzG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sway Bar Link - Rear Susp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T13:13:37.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2011-11-21T14:24:58.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish you luck.  In my experience any car that's 10 years old or more is probably leaking somewhere, just most times people haven't noticed yet (although, they eventually notice when the floor rusts through and falls out).  The causes of leaks are multitude.  You just have to go around every spot where there's a break in the metal (antennas, windows, trim, handles, gas doors, etc.) and inspect carefully/hose down while watching for water...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T14:24:58.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2382" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" Score="0" Body="Water leaking into the passenger compartment or the trunk." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T16:58:57.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-21T17:17:49.830" Score="5" ViewCount="8575" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend is helping me change the timing belt on my 2003 Acura TL 3.2. Yes, I paid for the beer!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've successfully removed the upper timing belt covers, drive belt, and serpentine belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're following instructions in a Hayne's manual. As many of you know, these manuals have a lot of information, but often times they leave out key information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may know, the timing belt goes around three gears. There are the two on top that we have no problem accessing. The third one on the bottom requires the removed of a 19mm bolt. If I'm not mistaken, this is called the &quot;crankshaft bolt&quot;. After destroying one of our socket wrenches by trying to remove this bolt, we went to the shop and purchased a long socket wrench with 1/2 inch drive. Even still, the bolt won't budge. When I crank that bolt as hard as I can, I can feel the weight of the entire engine shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm going about this wrong. Can I use something like liquid wrench or PB Blaster to loosen this bolt? I know that I'm royally &lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;*ed if the bolt comes off while I'm driving, so I don't want to do anything that might screw it up. Please advice me about the crankshaft bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T17:51:21.120" Title="Remove stuck crankshaft bolt on 2003 Acura TL for timing belt change?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2011-11-21T18:40:14.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda crank pulley bolts are always a pain to remove, but I think most Honda products have right handed threads, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy way: Lots of penetrating lube with a 3/4&quot; impact and 19mm socket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard way: The way you're trying. Put more back into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T18:40:14.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2362" CreationDate="2011-11-21T18:43:04.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the codes will do you no good unless you know what each one means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to Autozone (or something similar) they will usually read the codes for you for free. There is an EEC-IV Test Port connector somewhere in the engine compartment. They will know where. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T18:43:04.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2011-11-21T18:46:05.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend putting in a different engine unless you want to deal with changing/splicing the wiring harness and installing a new computer. I would just stick with the same type of engine that came with the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine swaps in newer fuel injected vehicles is not what I would call &quot;fun.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1108" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T18:46:05.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2389" CreationDate="2011-11-22T08:33:56.510" Score="5" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 1993 LandRover Discovery 3.5 V8.   Today when I hopped in to drive home the battery light came on when I started up, and remained on.  It gets brighter as the engine revs and just about extinguishes at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery seems fine.  No problem cranking.  Electolyte fine.  Battery voltage at rest is 13.6v, rising to over 15 when the engine revs.  All belts are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a regulator problem?  Am I in danger of frying the battery if I drive it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1236" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T12:52:24.990" Title="What's the reason for a battery light coming on and becoming brighter as the engine revs higher?" Tags="|electrical|battery|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2011-11-22T12:52:24.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly the voltage regulator.  Potentially could damage the battery eventually, but you're most likely to damage sensitive electronics in the car first.  If the voltage gets high enough, the wiring insulation may not be able to handle it too.  Not sure what voltage typical automotive wiring is certified for.  This is something you should repair immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T12:52:24.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2044" CreationDate="2011-11-22T20:21:30.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your later edit confuses the picture a bit but here's an idea from left field: could it be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=782293&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;active noise cancellation system&lt;/a&gt;?  That has been cited as a source of annoying noise after an aftermarket subwoofer is installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the disconnected battery: what happens if you disconnect the battery and then pump the brake pedal a few times?  Does that make the hum stop?  If so, I'd look for an electrical cause (possibly from the cited ANC issues).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T20:21:30.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-22T20:26:25.090" Score="5" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the course of changing the timing belt in my 2003 Acura TL, my Hayne's manual says to remove the dipstick tube.  The manual says that this is accomplished by removing one bolt.  I removed the bolt, but the dipstick tube still seems to be connected to the engine at the bottom somehow, though it wiggles around somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I wiggle and pull it to free it, or is that likely to damage the components?  What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T14:07:50.447" Title="How to remove dipstick tube from 2003 Acura TL?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-11-23T05:56:27.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the manual says there is only one bolt, it might simply be stuck. Can you wiggle it, and it rotates? Sometimes the just have some build up that is making it difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T05:56:27.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-11-23T13:47:00.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that the dipstick tube might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2348332&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;easier to remove on a warm engine&lt;/a&gt; than a cold one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this photo series&lt;/a&gt;, I can understand why you're confused: it's a single bolt, it seems like it should pop right off.  If you aren't already in pieces all over the garage, I'd recommend trying to warm up the engine oil and see if it feels like it'll come free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T13:47:00.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2011-11-23T15:20:02.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some brake pads are designed to squeal when the pad material is worn down to a certain point, the idea being that the squealing will warn the driver that new pads are needed. This isn't your problem, because your brakes are new, but it is one answer to the general question, &quot;Should I be concerned about squealing brakes?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T15:20:02.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-23T17:26:53.240" Score="2" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I fix a problem with my immobilizer? This is a follow up to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2252/59&quot;&gt;2006 Kia Sedona intermittently not starting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts (if any) do I need? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to go about the repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:20:06.210" Title="How do I fix an immobilizer problem on a 2006 Kia Sedona?" Tags="|electrical|ignition|kia|sedona|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T00:26:25.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-25T06:25:01.087" Score="6" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Florida and have mold allergies. Multiple times my 2008 Sienna van has a bad AC smell develop which makes me cough my head off.  The dealer has cleaned the evaporator and ducts and the problem gets better but returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read on this site that I should not use MAX and the recycle air setting so much as it prevents fresh air from drying out the evaporator and tubing.  I also read I should let the system run fresh air without AC for a few minutes before turning off engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old Volvo wagon had a fan motor that came on for a while after the engine stopped.  I thought it was a malfunction but the dealer said it was to dry out the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that understood - when it comes time to buy a new car:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which car manufacturers, other than Volvo, have added some kind of mold prevention to the AC system? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1241" LastEditorUserId="1241" LastEditDate="2011-11-27T05:46:16.840" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T08:50:05.397" Title="Do I have to get another Volvo?" Tags="|toyota|ac|volvo|smell|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2400" CreationDate="2011-11-27T16:48:05.513" Score="0" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Civic. If I have to transport stuff that sticks out of the trunk and won't allow it to close, how can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, in other cars, you can take a bungee cord (which I have), connect it from some latch on the trunk door to something on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find anything suitable on the trunk door though for this; the actual closing mechanism is like an inverted V-shape, and there's nothing I can clasp the cord to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T23:58:39.423" Title="Securing Trunk on a Civic" Tags="|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-12-02T05:22:49.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2401" CreationDate="2011-11-27T19:22:34.000" Score="7" ViewCount="13360" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2005 Toyota Corolla CE. Its engine is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine#1ZZ-FE&quot;&gt;1ZZ-FE&lt;/a&gt;, a 1.8L straight four that runs on gas, not diesel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator is stock, and tests out just fine on the multimeter in both voltage and amperage. However the battery charge is very low. After trickle charging it overnight, and starting the engine on the battery booster, the car drives a short while, then the engine stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is a disconnect in the electrical system, like a corroded wire. However, I would like to know if it's possible for a bad battery to cause the engine to stop. My understanding is that the battery is used only for starting the engine, but that may be overly simplistic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T18:26:46.570" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T18:26:46.570" Title="Can an engine stop from a bad battery?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2011-11-27T23:58:39.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's REALLY nothing to attach to, one thing that comes into mind is something similar to trunk bike rack. One end of your cord goes outside of the trunk, near the back window, and second part goes under bumper. something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffp0r11E7Tg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffp0r11E7Tg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T23:58:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2399" CreationDate="2011-11-28T03:45:09.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the alternator provides enough power to run the car, even without a battery present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car stops as soon as the battery is disconnected, then you have a problem in the charging circuit.  If you're 100% certain that the alternator is good, then something else is preventing the power from getting to the electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the charging system didn't provide enough energy to run the car, plus a bit extra, then your battery would never charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T03:45:09.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-28T08:38:29.857" Score="2" ViewCount="4578" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some time, my Jeep has had something leaking or draining into the carpet in the front-passenger floor space.  My mechanic has told me that the AC drain keeps getting clogged by leaves and such, and that the overflow from this clog is what's going into the carpet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least a few times in the past several months, I've taken it back to the shop (sometimes just for this, others for different issues) and I've been told that the clog has been cleared once again.  However, it would seem to me that for the car to require this routine clearing of the drain (If I were to try to keep up with it, I'd have to do it every week or two, I think.) would represent a rather significant design flaw (Somewhere up on the same ranking as the exhaust port on the Death Star.) that really shouldn't have made it to production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some more permanent solution to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  For clarification, I'm fairly certain the issue I'm experiencing is similar to what's discussed in this thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2330/78&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2330/78&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:47:36.153" Title="Permanent fix to AC drain clogging in '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee?" Tags="|ac|jeep|hvac|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2399" CreationDate="2011-11-28T08:40:03.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A modern Toyota will stop the engine when the battery is bad, it's a safeguard. Replacing the battery should fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T08:40:03.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-28T19:26:45.313" Score="5" ViewCount="4510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Turbo Tiptronic Automatic that has no passing power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I step on the accelerator the car will shift down into a lower gear, rev about 3500 RPMs but will not shift up again until you let off the accelerator.  I have replaced the HPFP sensor and the Mass air flow sensor but neither has changed the performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it revs to 3500 RPM, the speed is not increasing it just revs until you let off of the accelerator and then it will gradually get to the speed you want as long as you do not cause it to drop into the passing gear again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it is a sensor somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any constructive feedback would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1248" LastEditorUserId="1626" LastEditDate="2012-03-18T23:16:40.187" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T08:37:33.277" Title="2006 Audi A4 2.0T, No passing power" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|audi|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2407" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:52:35.360" Score="3" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some scratches on my doors. After some reading, it seems like my best option is to paint over it, and optionally scour the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to fancy tools, and I believe that sandpaper may be sufficient to remove the rust (albeit slowly and painfully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a good idea? My proposed workflow is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the rust off with sandpaper (if I can) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint over it with a paint stick from the dealership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T18:43:33.377" Title="Removing Rust from 2010 Civic Doors" Tags="|maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2011-11-29T18:43:33.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the rust!&lt;/strong&gt; Paint won't do much good on top of rust, and it won't last either. There are some chemicals you can spray on rusted surfaces, but I think sanding is generally best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tackled this project with my car. For small areas, sandpaper will work for removing rust. For larger areas (which I had), a flap wheel sander with a cordless drill was sufficient for removing the paint and rusted metal. If you have complex concave shapes with rust that are hard to get at, you may have to borrow a needle gun scaler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a clear bare metal surface, put on primer first. In my case, the suggestion was 3 coats of primer 15 minutes apart, and then paint an hour after the last coat. That's the point where you use the matched color paint from the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding the primer with a smooth grit may be necessary in between the last primer stage and painting. Many auto parts places can order paint that matches your car based upon a code that's on the information label in the door (at least in the US).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2289/removing-rust-prepping-for-repainting&quot;&gt;Removing rust / prepping for repainting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T18:43:33.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2402" CreationDate="2011-11-29T18:46:47.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell exactly what to do without seeing your particular case, but my bet is that there's a place where you can put some mesh screen from a hardware store that will stop this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T18:46:47.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2402" CreationDate="2011-11-29T23:52:45.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to stop what's getting in the HVAC system that's stopping up the drain, most likely dirt, debris, and leaves. These are entering they system through the fresh air intake of the HVAC system located in the cowl area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the fresh air inlet below, anything small enough to get through that grate will eventually end up in your AC drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0jSj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This grate is under the one shown above, and still has some rater large holes for debris to get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X75Xa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fresh air intake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have simply removed the cover shown in the first picture and put a screen (like screen door screen) over the fresh air opening in several vehicles with great success, some vehicles come with that from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems as though they may be a better way, as you can get a cabin filter for this particular vehicle as I found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wjjeeps.com/cabinair.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; when searching for the pictures above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a more expensive option and will do more than just keep the AC drain from clogging, but it might be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T23:52:45.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:33:44.057" Score="3" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Pontiac Montana is blowing warm air with the heater turned on. I was receiving a code (not sure what the number was but the message referred the engine was running cooler than it was supposed to). Since it never got over 140, I thought it was a stuck thermostat. Replaced it with a 195 thermostat. Now it gets up to 180, cools and goes back to 140. The heater heats up after it opens but cools down quickly after. It only is hot for about 15 seconds, followed by 30 seconds of lukewarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas why the heater never heats up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:25:26.200" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T13:06:44.550" Title="2005 Montana heater blowing warm air only" Tags="|cooling-system|pontiac|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2412" CreationDate="2011-12-01T01:49:45.480" Score="40" ViewCount="47847" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gear pattern is selected by clicking a lever with your left foot and is typically laid out as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6th gear (if applicable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5th gear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4th gear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd gear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd gear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NEUTRAL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the technical reason engineers decided motorcycle gear patterns should reflect the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More precisely, why is NEUTRAL placed between first and second gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1252" LastEditorUserId="38049" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T17:24:53.993" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T17:57:07.137" Title="Why is a motorcycle's neutral between first and second gears?" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|engine-theory|sequential-transmission|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2411" CreationDate="2011-12-01T13:24:03.803" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of the useful features of this setup (I have no evidence to prove they were the design reasons) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when braking in a hurry stamping down until you reach the bottom will leave you in first, &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; neutral. This is much safer in many respects than being left with no power in an emergency situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when starting from neutral, there is no risk of ending up in the wrong gear; 1 kick down leaves you in first gear. I have ridden very old bikes where neutral was the bottom gear, and sometimes the first click up would leave me in second - where I would stall, not being prepared for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also ridden a bike where the gears were the other way round, with 1st at the top, then neutral, then 2nd, 3rd etc - kicking down to change up a gear...less natural...very odd when accelerating hard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T13:24:03.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2011-12-01T14:09:57.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft bolt on that engine is just a standard right hand thread bolt.  The correct way to get the bolt off is to get as big of an impact as necessary to make it happen.  If a 1/2&quot; impact does not cut it then get a 3/4&quot;.  If you are breaking sockets then you are using the wrong sockets.  Make sure to use an impact socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that penetrating lube on these bolts does not do much good, but heat does.  I don't mean heat from a propane torch either, I mean real heat from an oxy/acetylene cutting torch.  Try this if you a you don't have access to a 3/4&quot; impact or if the 3/4&quot; impact fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a final approach, but it can be dangerous if you are not VERY careful.  First disable the engine so it will crank but not start (i.e. remove the fuel pump relay or unplug the ignition coil pack).  You can put a socket attached to a break over bar on the crankshaft bolt and angle the bar so the end is touching the floor or some part of the car that is very solid.  Have an assistant with a pry bar hold the socket and breaker over bar firm against the crankshaft bolt while you bump the starter.  If done properly, this will cause the starting motion of the engine loosen the bolt.  &lt;strong&gt;Only do this as an absolute last resort.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a visual of what I am talking about see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg&amp;amp;feature=fvwp&amp;amp;NR=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastEditorUserId="392" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T14:14:59.077" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T14:14:59.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:31:06.257" Score="8" ViewCount="6118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be leaving my Focus alone for around a month in (scottish) winter weather.  Ordinarily I would make sure to take the vehicle out at least once a week to prevent the battery going flat in the cold, but obviously if I'm away I can't do that.  What should I do to prevent it going flat while it's unattended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1254" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:03:41.440" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T20:59:39.993" Title="How should I prevent my battery going flat when I leave my car alone for a month?" Tags="|battery|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:47:41.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decent battery should last 4 weeks, at least it does in dutch weather, with&#xA;temperatures above -5 degrees celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't, on older cars, you can simply unplug the + connector from&#xA;the battery. To be safe, make sure the loose cable doesn't make an &#xA;electrical connection with other parts of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On newer cars (say after 2005), disconnecting the battery might mess with the electronics, although it shouldn't do real harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="321" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T15:47:41.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:55:10.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put it on a trickle charger. This will keep the battery topped up and replace the charge used to keep the alarm etc going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mains-powered chargers can be found very cheaply from any motor factors, or from chains such as Maplins and Halfords. If your parking space is too far from a power source for that, you can also get solar powered ones, although with typical Scottish winter weather you might need a fairly decent sized one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T15:55:10.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-12-01T21:24:36.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd vote heater core issue first.  If the heater core is clogged you might not be getting enough hot coolant through to get significant heat after the coolant cools down to a normal temp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option on some cars is that the thermostat control itself isn't working properly this would be more likely if the car has a digital thermostat and the control is on the fritz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1257" LastEditorUserId="1257" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T21:29:54.517" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T21:29:54.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2011-12-01T21:49:47.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing cabin Filter and see if that makes difference if you have not changed lately. Generally Cabin Filter is under Gloves Compartment on Passenger Side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T21:49:47.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T02:57:03.617" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/how-to-break-in-a-new-car&quot;&gt;article on breaking in a new car&lt;/a&gt; at Popular Mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ritual of breaking in a new car is part of the body of knowledge we refer to as conventional wisdom. It’s not necessarily wise, and the technology of building a modern automobile has evolved to the point where a lot of “wisdom” is obsolete. Few cars specify a break-in procedure anymore, simply cautioning you to avoid extreme acceleration or extended idling for the first thousand miles or so, and there’s little in the way of extra service up front. Some don’t even mandate an oil change until 6000 miles. We think your new ride deserves better. Here are a few tips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some highlights, at least, what the seemingly reputable author specifically recommends as a new car owner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the first 1000 miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you’ll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid top-speed testing, drag racing or towing heavy trailers for the first 1000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change oil very early (20 miles and 1000 miles) to remove any lingering metal particles from new engine wear. After that, follow the recommended oil change intervals in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Refrain from high-speed stops or dragging the brakes for a few hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your car has a lot of cloth or carpet exposed, consider applying Scotchgard so dirt, mold, pollens etc can't adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to wax the car to protect the paint, the factory paint is fully cured, etc. Consider applying 3M protective clear film to leading edges of the car to further protect the finish, if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the &lt;strong&gt;early oil change advice the most compelling&lt;/strong&gt; and I'll be doing that with our new car at 1k miles for sure. In general, as the accepted answer states, always defer to your car's manual and the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T02:57:03.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T03:09:50.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new VW Golf in March and was instructed by VW that there was no run-in period required and no 1000kms service either. The first service is almost due now at the standard 15000kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know if that helps any, it's just my most recent experience and not something I'd come across before either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T03:09:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T03:11:16.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 4Runner came with Synthetic.  The manufacturer (Toyota) recommends 10,000 for first oil change, and 10k between after if still using full syn.  I still did it at 5k and plan to do 7500 from now on..  I don't think it matters so much as it used to.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1261" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T03:11:16.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2676" CreationDate="2011-12-02T03:13:40.833" Score="2" ViewCount="2601" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 CTS vibrates pretty bad at idle speed (around 600 RPMs)  But If I rev up to 800 or so, it's totally smooth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem is partially due to worn motor mounts, but I dont want to spend $500 to replace them right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there any way for me to reprogram the idle speed?  Would I have to purchase some aftermarket chip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:55:44.153" Title="is there any way to adjust my idle speed - 2003 Cadillac CTS" Tags="|engine|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-02T03:31:12.353" Score="7" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas mileage in my car is degraded significantly the last three tanks. What should I look for?  Details of the vehicle are below, but this question could also apply to anyone who sees this problem with their car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2005 Chevy Aveo, about 108,000 miles. I normally get about 32 (which already seemed low for a compact), but recently I'm only getting 23-24, or a 25-30% drop. It's a manual (5-speed) transmission. I'm used to a small drop in mileage as the weather turns colder each year, but even then I still normally make &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 29-30. One other possibly-important detail is that we did store the car for about 6 months last year, but it had been doing well for a few months since we started driving it again (after some post-storage maintenance, of course).  It feels like it still has just as much power as it always had, but that is an entirely subjective (unmeasured) observation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1263" LastEditorUserId="1263" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T04:26:35.417" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T19:43:28.163" Title="Gas mileage down significantly the last few tanks: what should I look for?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T04:52:33.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I read that Consumer Reports (Nov 2011, p. 71) breaks in cars for 2000 miles before they perform their analyses. I guess that means that the car isn't really at a 'steady state' until after that point, at least in their opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1264" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T04:52:33.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2429" CreationDate="2011-12-02T05:06:53.563" Score="5" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '05 Mazda3 with pretty much stock wheels. I have washed my car a few times, and the first thing, without fail, that gets dirty are my wheels.  What is the best protectant I can use to keep them shiny?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T13:31:04.273" Title="How do I keep my wheels looking nice and shiny after cleaning them?" Tags="|wheels|mazda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2431" CreationDate="2011-12-02T06:24:02.637" Score="5" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the maintenance my dealer recently suggested is necessary, and if so, if it's worth it for me (a person who has technical skill but is inexperienced with auto) to undertake on my own simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle Info&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2007 Ford Focus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;64k miles (48kk of which have been put on in the past 1.5 years) -- got it with 17k on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All regular maintenance performed (oil changes, air filter changes, etc.) so far&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggested Maintenance this time around:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castle Power Steering Flush: Labor $75.23 + Parts $37.50 + Tax, etc. = &lt;strong&gt;$122.96&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace Fuel Filter Labor $55.00 + Parts $20.57 + Tax, etc. = &lt;strong&gt;$82.64&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castle Lower Intake Decarbon Service: Labor $143.57 + Parts $46.97 + Tax, etc. $ = &lt;strong&gt;$208.58&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total: &lt;strong&gt;$414.17&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1258" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T14:21:36.293" Title="Are these repairs necessary, and can I do them myself?" Tags="|ford|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|focus|dealer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2011-12-02T08:34:20.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Wheel wax and clean them often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T08:34:20.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2011-12-02T09:38:59.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately wheels will get dirty first - they are closest to the ground so will pick up everything; they also pick up brake dust, which is very sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means there is no silver bullet here - you need to wash frequently, and apply a wax if you want to slow down the build up of crud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a wheel cleaner solution to dissolve the worst grime and combat oxidation (especially if you have alloy wheels), then a complete wash with soapy water, and complete with a wheel wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do this every week through the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T09:38:59.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T10:42:45.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does depend a lot on the type of car - a lot of specialist sports cars specify an initial 1000 miles on a particular grade of oil at &amp;lt;5000rpm (for example) then a change to normal running oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is often the case with tight tolerance, high compression engines. My Forester STi had very strict rules for first 500 miles, and even the normal maintenance schedule is much more onerous than the standard version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid range cars these days are much more forgiving, and manufacturers like Kia try to make sure the customer doesn't need to worry about any of this so they do whatever is required to break in their cars before sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T10:42:45.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2427" CreationDate="2011-12-02T13:51:10.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've never done your own work, I wouldn't recommend the first two as your first venture.  You should make your own call, of course.  The third sounds fishy and I wouldn't address it at all without a clearer understanding of what they're trying to sell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just from looking these items over, they look like scheduled maintenance.  Those types of tasks are usually not terribly complex but they do involve some time commitment to properly complete and clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that you get to the point where you're changing your own oil (and disposing of the used oil properly) before tackling slightly more complex tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power steering flush&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.focaljet.com/svt-headquarters/528210-must-maintenence-item-power-steering-fluid-flush.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's a Focus forum&lt;/a&gt; recommending a straightforward procedure for the flush.  It's not terribly hard but you now have a quantity of dirty power steering fluid that you need to dispose of.  It doesn't go in the trash or down the drain.  Decide whether that's worth the hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel filter replacement&lt;/strong&gt;: again, the procedure isn't terribly complex.  Here's a quick and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w94U5Ytv6FE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reasonably good quality video&lt;/a&gt;.  Note that he's doing his best to reduce the pressure in the system by cranking the engine over: if you don't do that, there's a good chance that you'll cover yourself with a fine mist of gasoline.  Don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Intake Decarbon Service&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Okay, I lost my mind before&lt;/em&gt;.  I have heard about carbon build up but only in the context of direct injection engines (not relevant to the cars at my house).  It's not clear whether the 2007 Ford Focus could have one of the direct injection Duratecs.  If it does, I would talk to Focus owners first and find out whether carbon build-up is a problem for your engine.  If not, carbon build-up is generally considered to be a non-problem for fuel-injection cars using quality fuel.  I vote a provisional no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the end, even if you tell the dealer yes, yes and no on those three tasks, I've saved you about 50% of what they were asking.  Maybe you should consider having Santa bring you $200 worth of tools....&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T18:23:55.580" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T18:23:55.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2427" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:18:17.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Repairs&quot; may be the wrong term, these are more preventative maintenance.  These particular items are some that there's a lot of debate in regards to whether or not they're worthwhile.  They may be on some particular models, but not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power steering flush is not something I ever hear of people doing anymore.  However, I'm not a Ford guy, could be specific to them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter replacements &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; still usually recommended every 60k by the manufacturers, but the repair shops I've talked to about this say that they don't find it necessary to do it that often.  Claims are that the fuel supply today has far less contamination than it used to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decarbon service is extremely model dependent.  Some have buildup, some don't.  Depends mostly on the design and partially on driving habits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:18:17.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2436" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:24:52.383" Score="2" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 97 taurus' heat has stopped working entirely. In fact on defrost it seems to be blowing the air conditioner. The coolant is topped off and I've checked the lines into the heater core and neither one of them seems to be hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T16:34:25.747" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T16:34:25.747" Title="97 taurus heat does not work" Tags="|ford|heat|taurus|dn101|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:41:37.670" Score="1" ViewCount="3116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Explorer with really low miles (&amp;lt; 30,000 miles; classic &quot;little old lady who only drove it to the grocery store once a week&quot; type vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I start it on cold mornings, while idling the engine will rev up to somewhat high RPM's for idling, sputter for a few seconds, rev up again, sputter for a few more seconds, etc.  The engine may even die during one of the sputtering phases.  The sputtering is worse the colder the weather is in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the car warms up, it idles and runs fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints as to what's going on with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1271" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T23:21:36.447" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T23:21:36.447" Title="Vehicle sputters on cold start on cold mornings" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|un105|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2434" CreationDate="2011-12-02T15:12:05.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a Mitsubishi, it would be either a failed Idle Air Controller, or the Base Idle Set Screw has backed out and needs to be reset (and sealed into place).  Look for something similar to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T15:12:05.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2433" CreationDate="2011-12-02T15:16:48.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On defrost, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; running the A/C (to dry the air), so you're correct on that point.  Just usually there's enough heat available to overcome the cooling effect.  Sounds like you may have either a clogged heater core (a lot of labor to fix on most cars), or hopefully just a failed actuator (not sure if the Taurus has a mechanical linkage or electronic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably looking at a good deal of working back behind the dash either way as that's where those parts are usually located.  Very sensitive area too, easy to do accidental damage to wiring, etc while in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T15:16:48.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2011-12-02T16:13:19.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add that while some engines do go through the 'burn in' process at the factory, none of the other components of the engine do, for example, transmission components (clutch, gearbox, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you should be aware that these parts need to be 'broken in' and they will not perform at their peak for the first ~1000 miles. Careful usage of the clutch is also essential to prevent further problems down the road (for manual transmission cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1273" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:13:19.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2424" CreationDate="2011-12-02T17:21:28.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be resetting the injection system can help restore things back to normal, usually there is a key sequence to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that the car has the same behavior as usual... look for external agents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaks. Any smell? Stains on the floor where you stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changed gas station? Changed fuel grade? Usual gas station has new owner? Fuel quality may have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion less politically correct: can someone be borrowing some fuel from your car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1274" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T17:21:28.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2424" CreationDate="2011-12-02T19:48:30.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad O2 sensor that the ECU just hasn't flagged yet?  Leaking fuel injector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T19:48:30.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2434" CreationDate="2011-12-02T23:10:12.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check for vacuum leaks and malfunctioning idle controller valves. Cold air is more dense (contains more oxygen for the same volume) so I'd expect a vacuum leak so show up worse as you get more unmetered air introduced into the engine and the ECU tries to compensate for the air/fuel mixture being off, which leads to the idle surge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T23:10:12.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-03T00:12:55.253" Score="3" ViewCount="6415" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's happening more and more these days where I will hit the gas while at a complete stop.  My car starts moving, but not as fast as it should based on how far I have the pedal down.  Anymore, I can sometime nearly floor it and my car just inches its way up to speed, barely accelerating at all, but then it finally shifts gears and my engine goes VROOOOOOOM and my car takes off like a bat out of hades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, I'd hit the gas and my car would go like it should.  It only has 50,000 miles on it and I am the only owner.  What could cause my car to behave this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1276" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T21:09:43.343" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T23:19:22.427" Title="Why does my automatic 2002 Honda Accord EX V6 seem to struggle when shifting gears?" Tags="|honda|performance|accord|shifting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2534" CreationDate="2011-12-03T03:01:59.423" Score="1" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove 23-year-old AC barrier hose from aluminum line so I can replace them. I split the crimped ferrules and removed them. The hoses are stuck on. I'm sure they've permanently deformed to fit tightly around the barbs. I can rotate them but can't pull them off the barb fittings on the aluminum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cutting a slit in the hoses but I'm having trouble cutting all the way through with a knife, and I don't want to use anything more powerful since I could damage the fittings and prevent a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered putting a torch to the aluminum to get the hoses to melt a bit, but I don't want get the aluminum covered in gunk I can't remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T03:08:52.453" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T05:16:48.813" Title="How to remove stuck AC barrier hose without damaging barb fittings?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2011-12-03T04:54:59.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you cut more? Rotate around, and make more slids? Also, cut from the other side. Basically destroy the hose you don't want, and clean off the one you want to save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T04:54:59.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2011-12-03T21:12:08.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have been regularly servicing the car, this should not be happening. It could be spark plugs, airflow, fuel or tuning - so unless you have other symptoms you can describe, I'd get those checked out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T21:12:08.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2011-12-03T22:22:25.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cutoff tool like the one pictured below, gently so as not to go too far. A lot of your AC hoses are going to have metal reinforcements inside so it's difficult to cut with anything less than this. You can cut the hose off close to but below where the aluminum fitting ends so you can see a cross section and better tell how deep you can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iJ8R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman Cut Off Tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cut-off-tool/p-00919953000P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Available here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T22:22:25.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-05T13:00:51.193" Score="2" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS indicator is illuminating in this car, according to the mechanic the ABS ECU is fried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried rotating few reconditioned ABS ECUs with the same problem. So I'm not very sure if the ECU is to blame, and purchasing a brand new ECU will cost $1000+. So before going for that option I would like to make sure if the ECU is the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to diagnose this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T09:16:08.120" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:07:02.290" Title="How do I diagnose ABS problem with Toyota CE110 - 1996" Tags="|toyota|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2465" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:11:44.913" Score="7" ViewCount="25235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.climate.weatheroffice.gc.ca/climate_normals/results_e.html?stnID=3698&amp;amp;lang=e&amp;amp;dCode=1&amp;amp;dispBack=1&amp;amp;StationName=Winnipeg&amp;amp;SearchType=Contains&amp;amp;province=ALL&amp;amp;provBut=&amp;amp;month1=9&amp;amp;month2=11&amp;amp;submit=View&quot;&gt;temperatures are dropping below freezing&lt;/a&gt;, I decided to fill my wiper fluid reservoir with winterized fluid. I used almost an entire bottle, so it must have been almost empty, but there was definitely some summer fluid (without antifreeze) left in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after I filled up the reservoir with the new stuff, I realized that the bottle of leftover summer fluid I was keeping in my trunk was frozen completely solid! If it was frozen, so must be the fluid in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the frozen fluid cause any damage? Will the antifreeze in the winter fluid cause the frozen fluid to melt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1286" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T02:55:33.070" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T17:13:04.223" Title="How do I deal with frozen washer fluid?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|freezing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:40:18.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you getting Check Engine Light ?. Most likely it is Spark Plug or Air Mass Flow Sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i were you I would do following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change Spark Plug.  Since it is very cheap and easy to replace it and you should change it anyways, there is no waste of money there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have check engine light, check the code at Autozone if you do not have OBD2 code reader and get error code and do google on this code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a Air mass Flow Sensor Cleaner Can and clean MAF. Checkout some of the MAF cleaner Youtube video. It is fairly easy to remove MAF sensor and clean it. DO NOT Touch or clean with anything else. you should only spray this cleaner and let it dry by itself. If you see improvement after cleaning, it is Air mass flow and it is likey you will have to change it to Brand new since it will die after cleaning after you run for couple of days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T23:38:16.293" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T23:38:16.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2424" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:43:28.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you changed Air Filter or Spark Plugs lately ?. If not, this is the first thing I would do. Then try to use fuel Injector cleaner in your gas tank. If you still have issue, replace your O2 Sensor only upstream. No need to change Downstream (After Cat Converter) once. It is very easy to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T19:43:28.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2427" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:53:57.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Power steering flush - Most car comes with lifetime no need to change unless leak. Open the reservoir and see if it is dirty. I have not changed with my 1999 240K Miles MB C230 and I am still OK. Whoever I talked to about that, they said not required cars on later models. Same thing applies for Brake Fluid, and Transmission Fluid&#xA;2) Fuel Filter - Generally parts is very easy and replacing fuel filter process is very easy to do as previous poster provided you the link. If you find out where it is located you can definately do by yourself. Just be careful since you are dealing with fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Lower Intake Decarbon Service - No Idea what it is but seems like it is marketing gimmick term. I would buy a Fuel Injector cleaner and pore when you refill your gas tank.&#xA;If you want to clean your air and fuel system, there is good kit from 3M - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX5J5kZLTw4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX5J5kZLTw4&lt;/a&gt; which can do for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T19:53:57.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:05:55.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't seem to cause any damage, at least on my cars.  My washer fluid freezes inside the system every Winter and I've yet to have any problem (one car is 21 years old and the other is 17) with the washer system (even accidently trying to use it a few times each Winter when I forget that it's frozen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T20:05:55.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:13:17.127" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car, 2003 Toyota Camry shifts hard when warm. Fliud level is normal, mileage is 100k. I cannot spend too much time on it, just want to try some inexspensive tests, to understand what could be the problem. If you have any ideas on what it can be, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.4 liters 4-cylinder engine, automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T05:15:04.690" Title="Car shifts hard when warm" Tags="|toyota|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:22:04.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had 1999 RAV4 and I left it with summer washer fluid couple years ago. Then I refilled it with winter fluid like you did.&#xA;The damage I got is a rear spray didn't work, because I got  a hole in the hose that connects spray thing to the main reservoir(most likely because of expansion of fluid in the hose). So, when I tried to wash my back window, all of the fluid resided on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T20:22:04.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:51:00.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong but I thought you should able to get Check Engine Light with proper code of given Cylinder Misfiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1256" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T20:51:00.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2011-12-05T21:41:39.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the spark plug wires to make sure they're installed properly.  I saw a case a couple years ago where the car had been in for an oil change and one of the plug wires got bumped loose/out a little.  Car idled fine, seemed to drive fine until you asked it to go fast, then it would shudder and bang and just be very unhappy.  Found loose wire, pushed it down, all was good again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T21:41:39.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-05T21:50:11.623" Score="10" ViewCount="109147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been noticing a grinding/resisting force and sound when I shift from first to second gear in my 2003 Jetta GLI. It is ruining driving for me because every time I shift from first to second I feel this grinding force pushing the stick away from second gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One time, I shifted lightly, (this was when I was first noticing the problem) and the stick flew out of second and into neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally asked some of my more mechanically inclined friends (I know nothing about cars) and they said that either my foot wasn't depressing the clutch all the way or some chain/link/doodad was too short. I made sure that I was fully depressing the clutch, and it still happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it into an auto shop that I trust and they couldn't find one thing wrong with it. They even took it for a drive and said that they didn't experience what I was experiencing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's strange I thought. So I had some relatives drive it around and they experienced it maybe 5% of the time compared to my 90% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is definitely me. I think. I'm not sure. I just want it to stop. Lastly, a relative declared that I was shifting too fast for some syncro-or-another-something to catch up. So I slowed down my shifting, but that didn't stop the problem. It dropped to maybe 80% of the time, but no real change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1288" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T01:13:53.500" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T07:41:28.957" Title="Shift &quot;Grinding&quot; Issue?" Tags="|transmission|vw|clutch|shifting|jetta|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-12-05T23:13:45.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When was the last time the transmission's gear oil was changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has been a while (or never), get it changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your manual for the recommended interval, this is one of the fluids that is often overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has never been done on a 2003, it needs to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T23:13:45.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-12-06T02:10:39.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There might be a couple of issues at play here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gearbox oil wants changing as ManiacZX suggested&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're &quot;ripping&quot; through the gears too quickly and not give the synchros enough time to work. Try changing gears a little slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your clutch might not be disengaging properly. If it's a cable clutch it might need adjusting, if it's a hydraulic one it might want fresh fluid and/or a slave cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T02:10:39.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1625" CreationDate="2011-12-06T02:11:30.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did eventually figure this out using a pretty simple method.  I tried moving the axle back into place using PetroEkos' method and also using ratchet straps but it was just too heavy and wouldn't budge.  The solution that finally worked was placing chocks behind the rear wheels, putting the truck in reverse and slowly rolling backwards.  With the rear wheels and thus the axle locked in place I was able to position it back into its proper position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="909" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T02:11:30.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2152" CreationDate="2011-12-06T02:50:18.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be a leaking seal in the injection pump.  I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR44StvcXms&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which explains how to replace the leaky seals relatively easily and far less expensively than replacing the injection pump (which is what the dealership does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T02:50:18.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2011-12-06T08:14:14.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned - no permanent damage is expected. Leave your car in a warm parking lot (underground or heated) for a couple of hours. Summer fluid will melt and you could safely use sprays to drain it from connecting pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T08:14:14.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-12-06T13:50:56.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @ManiacZX and @Timo Geusch.  As this is a 2003, there's a good chance that the gear oil is old, if not the original fluid.  Unless the shop recommends that you do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; change the fluid, I would have it replaced.  The oil is reasonably cheap and it's not a whole lot of labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a good chance that your clutch is out of adjustment, worn, or slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I tried very hard to think of a way to work the word doodad into that sentence....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a set of questions and answers that are relevant to problems of this nature.  Note: some of them are from me - I've seen similar situations with my car and I was very satisfied after a gear oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch testing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1169/57&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1169/57&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch symptoms: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1399/hydraulic-clutch-fails-to-fully-disengage&quot;&gt;hydraulic clutch fails to fully disengage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear oil: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/52/is-redline-lightweight-shockproof-appropriate-for-an-aging-2004-subaru-impreza-m&quot;&gt;Is Redline Lightweight Shockproof appropriate for an aging 2004 Subaru Impreza manual gearbox?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear grinding: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1674/why-does-my-3rd-gear-grind-on-shifting-when-rpms-are-high-on-2002-audi-tt&quot;&gt;Why does my 3rd gear grind on shifting when RPMs are high on 2002 Audi TT?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T13:50:56.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-12-06T14:03:33.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like the first stages of a worn synchromesh in second. I take it you are not having any problems changing into the other gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised to see that occur on a car that new, but if, as others have suggested, the gear oil has not been changed, it could have worn prematurely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to test if this is the case is to try &quot;double-declutching&quot;. When you are changing from first to second, press the clutch and move the gearstick to neutral. Then release the clutch, press it again, and move the stick into second. This forcibly slows down your gearchange, and the act of letting the clutch up again in the middle helps slow down the input side of the gearbox to make it easier to engage the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T14:03:33.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:01:47.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not a bad idea to replace the brake fluid after 10 years. Even though it is not really suggested by most automakers, brake fluid is hygroscopic and can gather moisture after all that time and rust out brake system components. If you are careful you can just gravity bleed the system, look up your wheel bleed order, loosen a screw and allow about 4oz to drain. Make sure the master cyl is always filled with fluid and you should have no issues with air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:01:47.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2433" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:05:49.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've checked the lines into the heater core and neither one of them&#xA;  seems to be hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have a stuck open thermostat. Does the dash temp gauge needle sit in the middle zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:05:49.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:18:49.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most newer cars will blink the check engine light if a spark plug suddenly fails. If you ever see a blinking check engine light it means you have a major misfire even that is going to damage your expensive catalytic converters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:18:49.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:38:55.280" Score="5" ViewCount="13649" Body="&lt;p&gt;NY State inspection guidelines call for a parking brake test similar to this: &quot;Car must hold in Drive under moderate acceleration. Parking brake must lock in place and be released independently from service brake&quot; An auto release parking brake is given a cursory hardware check (nothing seized) but not tested in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the quick lube places that do inspection here interpret moderate acceleration as a 1500 RPM. They aren't really able to do any repairs so they look for a reason to fail people. I guess if you have a smaller engine with rear drum brakes that should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a V8 car with rear disc brakes (caliper parking brakes) and it usually fails there (but has no problem passing at a Ford Dealer). The dealer said moderate acceleration is a tap of the gas pedal and the quick lube places are wrong. I used to be a mechanic and I agree. Even with new pads and cables the car creeps at 1500RPM. The parking brake will definitely stop the car but not lock the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a parking brake supposed to hold at such a high RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-14T16:44:31.337" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T16:44:31.337" Title="Parking brake inspection question" Tags="|inspection|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:49:37.037" Score="-4" ViewCount="13191" Body="&lt;p&gt;When at a red light for a prolonged period of time, which leads to a lower amount of wear/lower cost of maintenance over the long term: keeping the brake applied for the duration of the light, or shifting into park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: would being on an incline or decline affect this significantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1292" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T03:21:59.607" Title="Applying brake vs. shifting into Park at a red light - which is better for long-term maintenance?" Tags="|brakes|parking|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-07-25T03:39:26.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:58:50.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considerations:&#xA;The engine spins faster in park...&#xA;You put more wear and tear on the auto trans linkage assembly by using it more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In park though there is probably a bit less stress on the torque converter in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion ... no difference either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:58:50.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2475" CreationDate="2011-12-06T18:11:19.683" Score="4" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a car from a private seller. I've already given him the deposit (not a great amount, £100).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2004 Ford Focus 2.0 Ghia. It has a FSH but I think the next service would be the one that includes a new cambelt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this put me off buying the car? For example, how expensive will it be to get the cambelt changed? And what are the odds of the cambelt breaking within the next 1-2 years (or 10-20k)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1294" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T14:35:34.903" Title="Should I buy a car that is due a new cambelt?" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2474" CreationDate="2011-12-06T18:21:42.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too bothered by the fact that it'll need a new cambelt at the next service, but I might use this for additional leverage when negotiating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what the odds of failure are, do you feel lucky? I'm pretty sure the Focus has an interference engine so if the belt breaks, the pistons will attempt to occupy the same space as the valves, with expensive consequences. Like &quot;potential for a new head and possibly pistons&quot; type expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just get the belt changed as per service schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T18:21:42.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2011-12-07T01:14:33.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had luck running seafoam thru those snowblowers. Also, are you using very fresh gas? Does it happen when its fully warmed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be an intake gasket leak?&#xA;Sometimes the carbs have to be replaced...How old is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T01:14:33.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-07T02:27:27.050" Score="8" ViewCount="57918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Ford Escape Limited on which the battery light has been coming on randomly for varying amounts of time while the vehicle is in active operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the battery cables and fuses, and the only thing I can see is that the light comes on by itself sometimes. It will occasionally stay on for an hour on a long trip, and other times only come on for 30 seconds, then not come on again at all during the rest of the journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cause(s) can there be behind the light? I'm trying to get a feel before heading to my mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1296" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T22:06:46.733" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:33:24.543" Title="2004 Ford Escape battery light comes on intermittently - what likely cause(s) are there?" Tags="|ford|battery|warning-light|cd2|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1714" CreationDate="2011-12-07T02:32:30.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar symptom occur recently after replacing the wife's struts.  What I found was that I'd inadequately tightened the top nut on the strut, the one that holds the actual damper assembly to the shock mount (which is then bolted to the car).  The result was that the whole strut was moving just a bit and moving independently of the rest of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End result: a series of progressively more irate text messages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got home and tightened the nut with a combination of an allen wrench and a socket: all fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This nut is could be under a dust cover on the top of the shock mount.  If either that nut or the shock mount itself are loose, the noise will be extremely troubling.  If any of those are the problem, though, it's fixable with a little wrench work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T02:32:30.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2485" CreationDate="2011-12-07T08:20:44.617" Score="6" ViewCount="5332" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cars I've encountered (here in the UK) have the brake pedal higher than the accelerator pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a standard, world wide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have thought that for safety (getting to it quicker) you'd want the brake lower than the accelerator, so why is it set up the way it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a mechanical reason? Maybe to give the brake pedal more room to travel? Some other reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1298" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T12:03:49.847" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T10:14:57.677" Title="Why is the brake pedal higher than the accelerator pedal" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2011-12-07T11:39:25.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution is to shift into neutral and apply the handbrake. Shifting into park is fairly pointless imho (unless you're actually parking, obviously!), but you should never hold the car on the footbrake when stationary, as this keeps your brake lights on and so dazzles the driver behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T11:39:25.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2011-12-07T11:58:17.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried putting a multimeter across the battery terminals? The battery light simply means that the battery is not charging, which usually means the alternator is not giving enough charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a car of that age, it is likely that the alternator is coming to the end of its life, as they can often only last around 8 years before needing refurbishment/replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T11:58:17.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2011-12-07T12:06:55.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of my cars have the brake higher than the accelerator - they were almost exactly aligned when I bought them - so it may just be a feature of the cars you have driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There don't seem to be standards on this, or on spacing of pedals (I my brake and accelerator close together to make heel and toe-ing smoother. In my Subarus they already are, but in other cars I have had there has been great variation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T12:06:55.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2011-12-07T12:09:40.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an automatic, Park should only be for parking. It will probably say this in the user manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying neutral and the handbrake are recommended by bodies such as the Institute of Advanced Motorists as being safest in the event of a collision, and least likely to dazzle whoever is behind, as @NickC said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T12:09:40.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2011-12-07T14:03:32.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same kind of issue last winter with my snow blower. I fix it by adjusting the carburator screw to allow more gas into the engine, now works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T13:35:50.640" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T13:35:50.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-07T14:27:59.690" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start accelerating, at around 3 seconds in, I get a spike in my engine rpm (at least it sounds like it) for a few seconds after which it calms back down and continues escalating as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much knowledge of the mechanics but i'd assume it's a roller or belt problem? What would be the issue and the suggested maintenance procedure/fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My scooter is 150cc, around 3 months old and has just over 2000 KM on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1300" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T15:14:10.550" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:32:56.300" Title="Scooter Powerband Spiking" Tags="|maintenance|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T03:22:59.460" Score="3" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;The road here can be a little bit rough sometimes, so I was wondering how I could improve the ride. How about upgrading to an air suspension system? Would that improve the ride? How much would such a job cost on a VW Golf Mk6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1303" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T13:24:13.510" Title="Would changing to an air suspension give a smoother ride?" Tags="|suspension|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2011-12-08T04:39:41.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temporarily running a higher octane fuel will allow you to determine whether your fuel octane is insufficient for the performance of the engine and/or it's current tune.  (For instance the timing may be too advanced for a low octane fuel).  You could temporarily run 100 octane unleaded race gas and then compare your timing retard values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1305" LastEditorUserId="1305" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T07:00:29.453" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T07:00:29.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2490" CreationDate="2011-12-08T13:24:13.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Consider new tires instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you provided a little more information, the answers might be more focused.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here are my short answers: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;too much&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Longer answer:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's think about some goals and parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How rough is &quot;a little rough&quot;?  Annoying for you?  Or just the passengers?  Are you losing fillings?  Teeth?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you care about handling?  How much are you willing to sacrifice for a cushioned ride?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What else can you tell us about the car?  Model year?  Tires currently in use?  How are the suspension bits?  Struts in good shape?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What sort of budget are you considering?  I.e., can you put a cash value on how much the ride bothers you?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to stay simple.  Changing to an air suspension is going to be expensive in cash and hassle factor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider, instead, the tires on the vehicle: I pulled up a page from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=0&amp;amp;autoMake=Volkswagen&amp;amp;autoYear=2010&amp;amp;autoModel=Golf&amp;amp;autoModClar=4-Door&amp;amp;width=195/&amp;amp;ratio=65&amp;amp;diameter=15&amp;amp;sortCode=38050&amp;amp;skipOver=true&amp;amp;minSpeedRating=H&amp;amp;minLoadRating=S&amp;amp;tab=All&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt; and found a variety of Grand Touring tires that are probably relevant and might be more to your taste.  Read the reviews and remember that the tires are your first line of defense when it comes to general bumps on the road.  If you go with a more compliant design, some percentage of those annoyances will be absorbed before they get to the rest of the suspension and, thereby, to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T13:24:13.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2011-12-08T13:50:37.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the air/fuel ratio is too far to the rich side, you can actually get rich knock...  So, make sure it's correct, don't just add more fuel blindly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vibrations/noise in the engine bay can trigger false knock readings that will cause timing retard.  I've seen more than one car that was tuned and working fine, right up until the owner decided to dump the exhaust out the bottom of the car, leave loose parts rattling around the engine bay, or put an obnoxiously loud muffler on the car...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T13:50:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-09T17:20:09.720" Score="6" ViewCount="17663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pontiac Grand Am. After getting a hose replaced, I noticed that my fans don't come on now. I checked the fuses and cooling fan #2's fuse is burnt out, which (I think) should be for AC only. It's winter here, so that's not a big deal. So now I'm left wondering why cooling fan #1 isn't coming on when my car is plenty hot. The only thing I see for fan #1 is relays. How can I test these relays? Is it practical to do, or do some auto part stores test relays or anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T18:02:14.953" Title="How do you test relays?" Tags="|electrical|pontiac|grand-am|relay|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2495" CreationDate="2011-12-09T17:47:45.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be done with a power source and a standard VOM.  Apply appropriate power source to appropriate pins while listening for click and looking for the desired effect (could be presence vs. absence of voltage or continuity/lack of) on the VOM which would be attached to the appropriate pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a repair manual to find out what to replace &quot;appropriate&quot; with in the above, especially in regards to power supply and pins...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you need to be very careful and make good connections that can't short out against each other while testing.  A typical test involves 12v battery voltage, and it won't go well for you if you accidently short that out...  Use good electrical safety practices and caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T17:47:45.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1714" CreationDate="2011-12-09T17:51:42.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my personal vehicles, I tend to break the strut mounts with frightening regularity.  Typically about 3 years and the fronts are broken (not loose, but actually &lt;em&gt;broken&lt;/em&gt;).  My current set of struts on the daily driver are on their 3rd or 4th set of mounting plates...  Apparently Bilstein struts are indestructable while Toyota strut mounts are a wee bit on the fragile side.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T17:51:42.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2471" CreationDate="2011-12-10T01:41:16.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of friction, static and dynamic (kinetic). Static is always higher than dynamic, and I think that's why you can't test the brakes at a sustained higher RPM, as once you passed the static point, it drops a bit. This makes the car easier to move under load. So your assessment is right, and a sustained 1500 RPM will likely get your car moving. We used to inspect them for tightness, and to ensure like you said, a slight increase and release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T01:41:16.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4206" CreationDate="2011-12-10T05:47:54.440" Score="3" ViewCount="2169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2 stroke Mercury 2.5 hp that has recently been dropped in the water. The motor used to run fine but now it won't start. I have dried the motor out and cleaned the carby, it's got plenty of spark, clean fuel and compression but it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of things I've noticed is a lack of vacuum at the intake manifold, there is some there but it's not nearly are strong as the compression at the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How strong should the vacuum be compared to the compression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T16:44:19.947" Title="How much vacuum should be present in a 2 stroke intake manifold?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2011-12-10T09:57:51.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep negative terminal of your battery detached from battery's terminal.&#xA;You may get the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1308" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T09:57:51.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2504" CreationDate="2011-12-10T20:14:19.060" Score="1" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing my oil right now, but can't seem to find the oil filter on my 2004 Buick Ranier V6.  Any ideas?  I don't have it up on stands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="1309" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T08:14:32.493" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T08:14:32.493" Title="2004 Buick Ranier Oil Filter Location" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2011-12-10T20:54:27.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the previous poster said this is most likely an issue with your alternator.  I'm not sure where the alternator is located on your car but in many cars they are very easy to get to and it's just a matter of loosening a few bolts and releasing the belt tension to get them out.  If you are comfortable doing this, you can take both your battery and alternator to NAPA auto parts and they will test it for you for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1310" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T20:54:27.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-12-10T20:57:08.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it.  If you're under the car, looking streight up at the drain, just towards your legs and towards the passenger wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T20:57:08.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2471" CreationDate="2011-12-11T04:29:04.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick lube place isn't thinking quite right. 1500 RPM means different amounts of power with different engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most American V8 engines tend to have a lot of low-end torque. On my 2.5L V4 car, cruising speed is ~2,700 RPM. On a former 5.7L V8 pickup, it was 1500 rpm -- enough power to move a loaded truck and 16 foot trailer at highway speed. Parking brake at 1500 RPM? I'd bet it wouldn't hold that kind of power even if it were new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPM to power output is very engine dependent. If you've got a V8 Ford, it probably has rear wheel drive. Your brakes don't stand a chance of ever holding back the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastEditorUserId="1120" LastEditDate="2011-12-14T01:25:56.637" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T01:25:56.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2455" CreationDate="2011-12-11T05:15:04.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to change the transmission oil and filter. Also, take a look and see if the linkage to the transmission is bent anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T05:15:04.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2509" CreationDate="2011-12-11T05:51:45.267" Score="7" ViewCount="4296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1463/what-to-check-when-buying-a-used-car&quot;&gt;normal stuff to look for when buying a used car&lt;/a&gt;, what else should you check or have inspected when buying a used car with a salvage or junk title?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1142" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T12:56:29.483" Title="What to look for when buying a salvage title car" Tags="|inspection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2508" CreationDate="2011-12-11T09:00:13.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two Main things come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flood - Interior, electronics, and engine should have been refurbished or replaced. Difficult to tell how extensive the flooding was. Lots of thrashed cars after Katrina ended up being sold as good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crash/Totaled - The body should have undergone extensive repair, and ensure the frame is straight or you'll be paying for it in the long run. The body might leak, if cracks went un-repaired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my honest opinion, avoid at all cost unless the person selling them is known for doing a good job with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T09:00:13.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2495" CreationDate="2011-12-11T22:29:51.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are you assuming that the fuse is only for the AC fan? It seems really strange that only one of the fans would have a fuse on its circuit. Replace the fuse, since you'll have to do it anyway - if the fan still doesn't come on, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; start looking at other possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1051" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T22:29:51.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2508" CreationDate="2011-12-11T23:22:12.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general I agree with the &lt;em&gt;avoid&lt;/em&gt; sentiment.  But, I have bought a salvage title car ('94 dodge spirit) and was quite happy with it.  It ran reliably for me from 60k miles until 120k miles.  In this case there were some special circumstances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The seller was known personally to me before the sale.  He was the owner/operator of a local body shop until he got fed up with dealing with employees.  So, he &quot;retired&quot; by moving all his equipment out to his acreage and he now makes a living by buying cars at insurance company auctions, fixing them up and reselling them.  (Just one guy no employees!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was shown an extensive set of before and after pictures.  The damage was minor:  The passenger side front door was bashed in and replaced; The area around the door has some scratches that were painted over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I drove the car to a body and alignment shop that I trust for an inspection.  I showed them the before and after pictures and asked them to measure everything carefully to make sure all was still in spec.  All was as it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am telling this story so that people will know the sort of extra precautions and checks you have to make if you are going to take the risk of buying a salvage title care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="705" LastEditorUserId="705" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T16:17:45.347" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T16:17:45.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2508" CreationDate="2011-12-12T10:12:08.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO the key thing to look at is &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it is being sold as salvage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the US, but over here we have different categories (A-D) depending on how bad the damage is. The lowest category (D) is simply &quot;not badly damaged, but not worth enough for the insurance company to bother fixing&quot;, wheras A is &quot;This car must be crushed and no part of it may return to the road&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a couple of people who have had category C or D cars and returned them to the road quite happily, altohugh in all cases they did the repairs themselves (or had them done), so they knew the extent of the damage and the quality of the repair. If you are talking about an older, low value car, it is easy for a small amount of damage, such as a broken bumper or bent wing (fender) to take it &quot;beyond economical repair&quot;, when a competent home mechanic could swap the panel with a secondhand one for a fraction of the price of an insurance repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T10:12:08.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-12T17:49:49.880" Score="2" ViewCount="8786" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my hand is all scuffed up from trying to get to the (-) terminal for jumper cables to jump my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1526/fixing-a-trunk-latch-on-a-ford-focus&quot;&gt;Ford Focus with the defective trunk latch which apparently has been draining my battery&lt;/a&gt;.  The fuse box is right on top of the battery giving you access to only the positive terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to me to be a lesson in the tragedy of the commons, but seriously, how do I get to the negative terminal to provide enough juice to jump my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T20:14:54.340" Title="How to access negative battery terminal in 04 Pontiac Montana" Tags="|battery|pontiac|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2011-12-12T19:18:51.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, I must gut my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t7482370-location_negative_terminal_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;car&lt;/a&gt; in order to jump another car - hopefully I never meet anyone without a socket wrench set who needs a jump in the middle of nowhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase fixya.com, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pop off the wiper cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the fusebox bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the big bar going over the fuseboxes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;strong&gt;3.&lt;/strong&gt; was where my wife appeared and said, &quot;stop ripping apart my minivan you can take it to work tomorrow.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T19:18:51.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2495" CreationDate="2011-12-12T19:30:37.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to do this recently, like Brian said you'll need a power source and a multimeter.  Most relays have a wiring diagram printed on them and most automotive relays are 4 pronged.  Two prongs will be your positive and negative power and the other two will be the bridge that is made.  What I did, and this was a very very cheap method and suggest for possible risk of electrocution that you try a safer method...I took speaker wire and stripped the ends.  I wrapped a wire each around the positive and negative prongs on the relay.  Then while touching the multimeter leads (set to test for continuity) to the bridge prongs, I touched the speaker wire to the car battery posts (thus the risk of electrocution, I DONT RECOMMEND THIS AND TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU DECIDE TO DISREGARD MY WARNING).  Maybe someone knows a set of clips that will fit a car battery on one end the small alligator clips on the other end.  If the you hear a click and have continuity, then the relay is most likely fine.  If you only have one of the above or have no click and no continuity, it is probably kaput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T19:30:37.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2011-12-12T20:14:54.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t10669290-need_jump_start_our_second_vehicle_using&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check this answer&lt;/a&gt;, looks they have a remote negative near the shock mount. Check the owners manual, you may find more details on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T20:14:54.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-12T22:13:22.087" Score="21" ViewCount="74261" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to treat door seals to prevent the doors from freezing in winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the doors on both of my vehicles are a bit &quot;sticky&quot; this time of year, where the temperature is above freezing during the day, but drops below freezing overnight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seals on both vehicles are in good condition, so I don't want to use a product that's going to harm the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T13:48:48.827" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T18:38:24.917" Title="What is the best way to prevent my doors from freezing shut in the winter?" Tags="|door|winter|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2011-12-13T02:39:18.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you want to displace the potential condensation that will form after the air inside a warm car cools down.  The best suggestion that I have heard is silicone based grease or sprays.  Those will discourage the water from sticking around and, later, becoming ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that might react with rubber is definitely not recommended.  This includes solvent-type sprays like WD-40 or common household Vaseline.  Either might seem like it's helping until you notice that your door seals are disintegrating rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T02:39:18.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2011-12-13T12:54:55.267" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting enough moisture into the seal/door interface, the seals are already failing.  It's time to replace them.  However, if you want to hold it off for a little while, vaseline is fine.  It'll slowly degrade the seals further, but well, they're already done for at this point...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best thing to do is to use silicone lube on the seals occasionally &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; moisture starts getting past and freezing.  That'll help extend the life of the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T12:54:55.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2523" CreationDate="2011-12-13T14:38:01.677" Score="5" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;While changing the pads for my rear breaks (disk), I saw that while the external pads were all gone, the internal ones were at 1/3 to 1/2 only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Should I address this? What is the cause - for self educational purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T15:42:05.463" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T17:50:35.473" Title="Why rear disk brakes do not wear the pads even?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2522" CreationDate="2011-12-13T15:14:30.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are supposed to wear evenly.  The most common cause that I've seen of uneven wear is the caliper slides sticking.  Often, the slide bolt boots don't seal real well, allowing water to get in and wash the grease out.  Once that happens, they start to stick, causing uneven brake wear.  In my experience, it can also be a problem if the car spends a lot of time sitting (even if the boots appear to be OK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T15:14:30.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2011-12-14T01:48:23.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is perfectly fine. Its much better for the engine to warm up on steady 3k RPM before you start reving it to maximum. This will make sure the oil has proper density and all components are well lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has a Fireblade and the behavior is very much the same. Until the engine gets warm its running on ~3k RPM and then drops to just a bit over 1k&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1183" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T01:48:23.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2011-12-14T04:28:46.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all engines will idle faster when cold than when warm. My fuel injected ZGR-1400 does so. My car does so. My KLR 650 and my girlfriend's Ninja 250, both carbureted, idle fast with the choke on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your engine is cold, the fuel mixture needs to be richer in order to achieve combustion. That will cause the engine to idle faster, and that is why every engine recommends that the idle speed be set when the engine is nice and warmed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fast idle for a cold engine in cold weather is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T04:28:46.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2528" CreationDate="2011-12-14T18:46:44.850" Score="6" ViewCount="2050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1997 Honda Accord maybe 6,000 miles each year. In past years, I've driven about 12,000 miles per year and changed the oil about every 3,000-4,000 miles, or about every three months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I get my oil changed now that I'm driving less? Should it be by mileage (~six months) or do I need it changed earlier than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1318" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T18:08:18.473" Title="When should I get an oil change if I drive infrequently?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="439" CreationDate="2011-12-14T18:52:32.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a K&amp;amp;N Air filter for my 2010 Kia Soul and yes, a little more power but a lot less mileage per gallon.  The reason being these filters are made for older vehicles with a carburator and not with fuel injection.  I am in the process of returning my air filter to K&amp;amp;N because of this.  They were very reasonable about this and indicated they will refund the full amount on my credit card but I must pay for the shipping.  I will let you know the outcome once I send the item back to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1319" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T18:52:32.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2011-12-14T22:31:50.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Accordng to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honda.ca/owners/honda-services/maintenance-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Maintenance Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, you should be changing it every 3 months.  At least, if you live in Canada. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in reducing the change interval, consider going to a full synthetic oil which, depending on formulation (and marketing) would probably be good for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Recommended_Oil_Change_Intervals.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6 months to a year between changes.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2011-12-14T22:39:02.710" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T22:39:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2011-12-15T00:15:42.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't drive a vehicle frequently enough and long enough, moisture will get into the oil.  Following the manufacturers spec for mileage and time is usually a good idea, every X miles or Y months, whichever you hit first.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I do with my summer car when it comes out of the garage for the season is an oil change, regardless of the mileage on the oil (which usually isn't much).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T00:15:42.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="443" CreationDate="2011-12-15T00:29:20.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil is going somewhere.  If your vehicle is not marking its territory (leaking when parked), it's probably burning it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T00:29:20.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2533" CreationDate="2011-12-15T06:47:08.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;code&gt;2006 BMW 330xi&lt;/code&gt; whose car-keys (the automatic one) is dead. I think its batteries are dead. What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried driving around to charge it but that didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1322" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T22:23:55.153" Title="BMW 330xi car keys dead" Tags="|battery|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2011-12-15T15:35:18.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if we use different grades of oil, but most UK spec cars I have dealt with have had an oil change interval of 6 months, not 3, and some have been longer than that - more and more newer cars tend to be going towards 12months or 10-15000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T15:35:18.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2531" CreationDate="2011-12-15T15:39:01.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get the battery changed, either by an automotive locksmith or by your nearest BMW dealer. The batteries are usually standard coin cells, but I wouldn't try changing one without checking first as you might find it will need to be re-programmed afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a locksmith first as they will probably be a lot cheaper than BMW!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T15:39:01.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2011-12-16T05:16:48.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is how I ended up getting them off: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a PVC pipe cutter to cut the hose just past the end of the barb fitting. Next I used a razor to cut slits directly into the end of the freshly cut hose. By starting cuts there, I was able to split the nylon liner and peel it back without having to cut into the liner over the barbs and risk scratching them. I did have to slice into the braided reinforcement a bit so that it would tear as I peeled the nylon liner apart from the barb fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying some heat with a heat gun seemed to help the nylon peel apart but wasn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T05:16:48.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2541" CreationDate="2011-12-16T21:56:36.450" Score="5" ViewCount="18476" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 1987 Hyundai Pony that was a little stubborn starting last time, but did run in the end. Then it sat for a couple of weeks. It's kind of cold (but not that cold—I'm in Vancouver). Now nothing seems to make it want to start. There's plenty of gas in the tank, the starter motor is cranking fine, it seems to be sparking fine (I pulled one plug out to check, didn't look at the other three though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember someone telling me that when the ignition is first turned on you should be able to hear a hum of the fuel pump running for a few seconds. I don't hear anything like that. But how likely is it that a fuel pump problem would arise from the car just sitting for a couple of weeks? I don't really want to replace the thing if that's not the problem. Is checking the fuel line pressure a straightforward thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much for any ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1325" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2011-12-17T06:55:23.710" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T03:10:29.833" Title="Car not starting: How likely that it's the fuel pump?" Tags="|starting|fuel-line|hyundai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2011-12-17T07:01:49.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions, since you checked your spark plugs for spark...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you get to your fuel rail on top of your head?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, can you disconnected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask, because the &quot;poor man's&quot; way of checking the fuel pump is to disconnect the fuel rail and see fuel coming as soon as you turn the ignition to the accessory position. Listening for the pump can be difficult sometimes, but ensure that you do not crank as the ignition will spark and can cause the fuel to ignite. Most vehicle will pump fuel for ~5 seconds to ensure there is enough to start, as it drains overnight/after sitting for long periods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF IT DOES NOT MAKE PERFECT SENSE.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T07:01:49.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2396" CreationDate="2011-12-17T07:14:02.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my humble opinion, the mold could have gotten into the ducts, and you have 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Ducts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can clean the evaporator and other parts, but if its in the ducts it might keep coming back if they don't get rid of it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T07:14:02.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="759" CreationDate="2011-12-18T06:26:42.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem with my boat (sail of course). Bought a fuel transfer fump and water separator/filter for the SUCTION side and recycled fuel from the inspection port to the filler, I couldn't believe the crap that filled the bowl of the filter. Took three filter changes but it is finally clear. Had to clean lines as well and now use fuel doctor additive. So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T10:18:52.893" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T10:18:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-18T19:06:10.437" Score="2" ViewCount="1576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my turbo repaired, the service told me that stopped working due to a sensor that had to be changed. It costed me a lot because they told me that the sensor was inside the turbo and it was hard to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After complaining about the car not running smoothly on lower RPM, they changed two solenoid valves which were not closing or opening properly. Still after this I get the same behaviour that is describe in detail below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in &lt;strong&gt;not running smoothly at normal driving RPM&lt;/strong&gt;, if I accelerate more I don't fill the &lt;strong&gt;jerkiness&lt;/strong&gt;, which by the way is &lt;strong&gt;not continuous, but repeats regularly about avery 3-5 seconds&lt;/strong&gt;,can be easily observed by driver and it is clearly more visible if the car is going up towards a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm thinking more, I quite similar with whats happening when you try the wrong gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car details: Peugeot 307 2.0HDi / 2004, 95.000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T11:12:11.883" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T11:12:11.883" Title="Diesel motor running slightly jerky on normal RPM after having the turbo repaired" Tags="|diesel|turbocharger|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2011-12-19T04:43:17.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more likely to be the relay than the fuel pump. And the run-on of the fuel pump is much more likely to be heard after cranking, rather than just when ignition is enabled. You don't want the fuel pump to be running if the engine isn't turning over as that creates a fire hazard should you be in a crash. I know of several cars configured like this and the fuel pump relay is an integral piece of this safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T04:43:17.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2011-12-19T06:20:17.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed a 1998 Ford Contour that wouldn't start after sitting for a while in cold weather.  The problem was a corroded ground connector in the wiring at the fuel pump.  A couple years later, it was left sitting again, and sure enough, it wouldn't start.  Same problem, same fix.  It can happen, though I'm not sure I would have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to hear the fuel pump briefly after turning the ignition key to the accessory position.  If you don't, the first thing to check is the fuel pump relay.  The location should be in your owners manual, it's probably in a box in the engine compartment with some fuses and other relays.  Swap the relay with a known good good one.  You might be able to feel the relay engage if you have your finger on it when it gets power (don't start the engine, just turn the key to the accessory position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've ruled out the relay, it's probably time to check for fuel pressure.  If you can get your hands on a fuel pressure test gauge, check it at the fuel rail under the hood, there should be a test port.  You can rent the gauge from some auto parts stores.  This is the &quot;least likely to start a fire&quot; method of checking the fuel pressure, and the only one I'd recommend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pressure is low, the pump may have one foot in the grave, and if it's zip, you've got a dead pump or a problem with the wiring between the relay and the pump.  I suppose you could have a clogged fuel filter too, that's worth checking, just be careful when disconnecting the fuel lines.  Since your vehicle hasn't been running, you don't have to worry about hot exhaust components, but disconnect the battery for the sake of safety and be careful not to generate any sparks.  Also, be prepared to deal with a bit of spilled gasoline (and don't catch it in the face).  Might as well change the filter while you're down there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel pressure is good (you need to find out what the expected value is), your problem is not the fuel pump.  If you're getting spark and fuel but it still won't start, it might be time to check the timing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T03:10:29.833" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T03:10:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2543" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:47:56.173" Score="2" ViewCount="12020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Golf mk4, 1.9 TDI from 2001 with 230.000+ km on board and for some time now I have blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem aggravates when I'm stuck in traffic or when the engine is kept at low revs for a long time. After that, when I rev it up, tons of smoke come out, then it goes back to just little puffs of smoke, visible only if you get in the back of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It eats about 750ml of oil every oil change cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I have 2 suspicions: oil getting in the turbo and oil getting in the burning chamber, but both cost a lot and there is nocheap &quot;let's see which is wrong&quot; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think, and how long do you think I can keep running like this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FIXED IT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Managed to fix the problem eventually by replacing 2 injectors. Wasn't oil related in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also changed my oil brand and the oil consumption went down significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T21:39:54.787" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T21:39:54.787" Title="Blue-ish smoke coming out from the exhaust" Tags="|engine|oil|vw|exhaust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2542" CreationDate="2011-12-19T16:00:35.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at your owners manual if it states a maximum oil consumption. I don't think that 750ml over a whole oil change interval is a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that it's more likely an issue with the turbo and investigating if it is shouldn't be that expensive. Essentially you or your mechanic would need to pull the pipes going from the turbo to the intake and check for both play in the turbo shaft and oil accumulation in the intake piping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how long you can drive around like this, well, keep in mind that if the turbo has axial or radial play, the turbine wheels will eventually contact the housing and either shave metal off the housing or blades. In general, engines don't like ingesting metal so you can turn an expensive but straightforward repair into a partial engine rebuild if you wait too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T16:00:35.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2542" CreationDate="2011-12-20T11:42:43.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Golf TDis (and I'd imagine other VWs of that era) are notorious for the Turbos failing. It can be a very expensive fix once it goes properly, so I'd get it investigated asap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description, I'd surmise that oil is seeping through one of the seals into the turbo, then when you rev the engine and the turbo spools up, the oil that has accumulated at idle is blown through, hence the big cloud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T11:42:43.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2547" CreationDate="2011-12-20T06:31:46.220" Score="4" ViewCount="5318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a used riding mower as a gift, and the other day I started to do some of the yearly maintenance as recommended by the owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got to the part about changing the oil, I saw the words &quot;SAE 10W-40,&quot; and I remembered that I happened to have a couple of extra quarts of Penzoil on hand that I had bought from the auto parts store.  So I happily used them.  Simple, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, upon a closer reading, I see that the manual &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; recommends one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PLUS-4 SAE 10W-40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE 10W-40 API Service Classification SG or higher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Huh?  It didn't even occur to me that there might be different kinds of 10W-40.  Did I just put the wrong kind of oil in my mower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should mention that I am a newbie at anything mechanical or motorized.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" OwnerDisplayName="anon" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T13:44:32.847" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T21:54:01.630" Title="Are there different kinds of 10W-40 oil?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2545" CreationDate="2011-12-20T07:22:21.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SAE grade (in this case 10W-40) only specifies the viscosity of the oil - it doesn't say anything specifically about the composition of the oil or any additives it may have.  So for a particular viscosity grade, it might petroleum-based or synthetic (or a mixture of the two), and might have any number of additives that affect various properties of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it in a mower engine - I'm sure it will be fine :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1335" OwnerDisplayName="UpTheCreek" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T07:22:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2545" CreationDate="2011-12-20T21:54:01.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most oil viscosities come in different additive packages depending on the intended use (ie, low detergent oil, oil for diesel or gas engines etc, specific oil for motorcycles) even though they have the same viscosity rating. That's (partially) what the API rating tells you - for example &quot;S&quot; ratings are usually for gas/petrol engines and &quot;C&quot; ratings for diesel engines. A lot of oils have dual ratings if they're usable for both petrol and diesel engines, but oils designed predominantly for diesel engines tend to contain more detergents than the ones for gas engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a lawn mower that takes 10W40 I'd say that the normal (ie, non-synthetic) Penzoil should be fine (ie, almost overkill). Basically it's more work trying to find a API SG rated oil than finding one with a higher API rating :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T21:54:01.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2882" CreationDate="2011-12-20T22:08:36.473" Score="3" ViewCount="7262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota. The left turn signal has started randomly switching over to blinking the right signal light. When it happens, the sequence is usually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on the left signal, it blinks for a couple of times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An out of sequence and slightly more quiet click is heard and the right signal begins flashing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the signal off and then back on again gets the left signal going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have confirmed that it is the entire right signal lights (not just the dash indicator). Also, all of the bulbs are working properly when the left signal is in fact flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not had the reverse situation happen with the right signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T21:19:41.340" Title="Turn Signal Randomly Changes Directions" Tags="|electrical|lights|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="583" CreationDate="2011-12-21T05:00:19.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No idea if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_6144178_program-keyless-entry-pontiac.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; works on a 2009, but it's worth a shot.  The programming procedure on some GM vehicles (2006 Cobalt at least) requires a GM Tech 2, which is highly annoying.  Hopefully linked song and dance works for yours.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T05:00:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2551" CreationDate="2011-12-21T06:18:14.383" Score="0" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today rain caught me and while the wipers swept I noticed the windshield is blurry, so the visibility was reduced. It is perhaps because of oily spots. What solution should I try to remove this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1339" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T10:13:27.570" Title="The windshield are blurry, possible because of oils" Tags="|windshield-wipers|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2550" CreationDate="2011-12-21T10:13:27.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thoroughly clean the glass, both inside and out. There are many different glass-cleaning products out there - have a look in the cleaning aisle of your local store. Try and find something that doesn't leave a residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have cleaned it, immediately replace your wiper blades. These should be replaced every 6 months or so as a matter of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in a colder climate, try to avoid wiping the inside of the screen when it has steamed up, as this can lead to a build-up of grease on the glass. If you have to wipe it, use a clean cloth and keep it clean, but it is better to use the demister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T10:13:27.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2675" CreationDate="2011-12-21T21:11:41.913" Score="5" ViewCount="7535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to Walmart and put my car's information (2000 Dodge Neon) into the electronic battery selector, and it told me to purchase a 26R-5N battery (which matches my current battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what do these numbers mean?  From what I gather, the R indicates &quot;reverse&quot;, meaning that the terminals are reversed.  Some batteries online are listed as 26R with no 5N.  Is that significant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T08:20:52.790" Title="What do battery numbers mean? E.g., 26R-5N" Tags="|battery|dodge|neon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2576" CreationDate="2011-12-23T00:05:08.877" Score="1" ViewCount="2243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Contour that has a check engine light. I checked the codes, and found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main culprit might be a vacuum leak, and that the codes are related to the side effects caused by the leak. Are there any common hoses that I should check first? I remember we had two main hoses on BMWs that were usually the guilty party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T21:08:04.757" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T21:08:04.757" Title="1998 Ford Contour P0171 P0174" Tags="|engine|ford|obd-ii|leak|cdw27|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2559" CreationDate="2011-12-23T19:37:03.320" Score="4" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have access to free automatic car washes. It is a pretty basic and short cloth car wash and dry. What should I do in additional to the automatic car wash? I was thinking about drying off any spots that are not completely dry with a microfiber towel. Should I also ideally put something on say the tires or windshield? More generally, what are automatic car washes poor at and what can be done to make up for these deficiencies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:34:15.160" Title="What car wash tasks should be done after an automatic car wash?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2011-12-23T19:48:45.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long chains will get loose sooner, hard shifting will knock it around and shorten its life, infrequent oil changes will interfere with lubrication as the carbon builds up on the chain. Most engines either have an automatic tensioner, or a good guide to help it from slapping. Belts are good, but some are very hard to change. Too bad manufacturers don't try to make the belt easier to change as it is needed to be replaced at some significant expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:00:45.490" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:00:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:01:02.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a tight turn the steering knuckle is pushing on the steering stop and any vertical motion of the body could create a thumping or squeaking noise as the knuckle rubs against the stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T03:47:22.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T03:47:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:34:15.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying is the most important part.  Try to dry out all the areas where water can collect and sit.  Same thing if the car is out in the rain.  That sitting water leads to rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:34:15.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1695" CreationDate="2011-12-24T00:22:53.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Honda Accord auto transmission with 333,000 miles. I have always downshifted one or two gears to save the brakes and avoid excessive speeds on downhill stretches. I often drive in areas with long hills, sometimes quite steep hills. Also often in flat urban driving will downshift a gear to let the car slow down when approaching a red light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have NEVER had transmission problems and have NEVER had any issue that required transmission work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic agrees with my driving. His only caution is to do the downshift on hills early by planning ahead, and not to do it when doing so would approach the red line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have asked Honda about this question, but find it impossible to get any response from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T00:22:53.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2581" CreationDate="2011-12-24T17:36:09.533" Score="1" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our &quot;Invision Generation Series&quot; DVD player (installed by the dealer in our '08 Toyota Highlander) plays some DVDs just fine, but for many others, it doesn't get past the initial previews. It has extra trouble with Disney movies (of course, the very ones our kids want to watch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if a firmware upgrade might do the trick, as the unit allows connecting USB. But no mention of this in the manual, or on the mfr's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1346" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T18:33:08.893" Title="Help with car movie/DVD player - Invision Generation" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2563" CreationDate="2011-12-24T18:16:07.780" Score="2" ViewCount="2564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pontiac Vibe 2004 with an automatic transmission. The mileage now is around 120k miles and I've never changed the transmission fluid. There are no mechanical problems with the vehicle at the moment but I was thinking about taking it to the dealership for some maintenance. Is it a good idea to change the transmission fluid for the first time now or would it make more damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1347" LastActivityDate="2023-09-24T20:03:50.093" Title="Should I change automatic transmission fluid on an older vehicle?" Tags="|maintenance|automatic-transmission|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2562" CreationDate="2011-12-25T04:06:57.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow the vehicle's designated maintenance schedule.  If it says you should change the automatic transmission fluid at a mileage near or below 120k, then change it.  If not, then don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/pontiac/2004-Pontiac-Vibe.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The manual for your 2004 Pontiac Vibe&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Change automatic transaxle fluid every 60,000 miles (100 000 km) if&#xA;  the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In hilly or mountainous terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When doing frequent trailer towing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you do not use your vehicle under any of these&#xA;  conditions, check the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say that if you bought the car used and are unsure of its history, whether it fits any of the listed conditions, then I would go ahead and simply have it changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="654" LastEditDate="2011-12-25T06:46:36.903" LastActivityDate="2011-12-25T06:46:36.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2565" CreationDate="2011-12-26T00:44:11.287" Score="1" ViewCount="2344" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I change the CV Joints on my 2003 Acura TL?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Acura TL 3.2 has been making creaking sounds when I turn around corners and I've been told that old, noisy CV joints are likely the culprit.  How do I change them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-26T14:46:46.380" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T14:46:46.380" Title="How do I change the CV Joints on my 2003 Acura TL?" Tags="|transmission|drivetrain|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2011-12-26T00:50:41.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;I did this work on my own.&lt;/b&gt;  I would like to share what I learned on this site.  I wanted to write this because I was not satisfied with the instructions I've seen elsewhere on the internet about how to do it.  However, I realize that I don't have all the answers, so I decided to instead write a narrative describing how I did the work.  It would be great if someone more experienced could elaborate more about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted this write-up on my personal web site along with some photographs that I took to illustrate what to expect.  I hope it is helpful.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://danielsadventure.info/cvjointchange/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://danielsadventure.info/cvjointchange/index.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me also point out that the shop &quot;AutoZone&quot; that I refer to here is a chain of auto part stores in the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last weekend, I was visiting family where we have a large garage to do this sort of project. I purchased the new parts from a shop called &quot;AutoZone&quot;.  I tried to follow the directions I found on the internet to do this work, but after many hours of struggling, I wasn't able to do it. In order to get the job done, I returned to &quot;AutoZone&quot; and spoke to the clerk there about my troubles. I was delighted with the knowledge and insight that the people who work at &quot;AutoZone&quot; had regarding my trouble. Following their advice and with some help from family, the work got done on the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I completed the work today on the driver's side in the same garage. The total time to complete the work on the driver's side was under three hours, including a short break. Here is what I did today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I cracked the lug nuts on the driver's side, raised the car up on a jack, secured it with a jack-stand, and removed the wheel. When I remove the wheel, I can see the brake rotor behind. The assembly attached to the brake is known as the &quot;wheel hub&quot;. The large nut in the center is called an &quot;axle nut&quot;. On my particular car, this is a 36mm bolt. AutoZone will allow you to borrow a 1/2&quot; drive 36mm socket for a $20 refundable deposit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, my assistant removed the axle nut using a ratchet with a 4 foot pipe to extend the handle. This is absolutely essential because the axle nut is very tight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a part behind the wheel hub called the &quot;strut fork&quot;. It is a fork shaped connector that attaches to the strut (shock absorber). It is held in place with two bolts. I used a 14mm socket to remove to upper bolt. The lower bolt has a nut on one end. The bolt and the nut are both 17mm. I used two sockets at once: one to hold the nut in place, and the other to remove the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I remove two bolts. There is one bolt up and to the right from the wheel hub. There is another bolt at the very bottom of the wheel assembly. Both are held in place with cotter pins. I pinched the cotter pins with a pair of pliers and carefully tapped them out with a hammer. Then I removed both bolts with a 17mm socket. I needed to use my pipe again to get enough leverage to remove the bottom nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joint that the lower cotter-pin secured bolt goes into is called the &quot;lower ball joint&quot;. The joint must be separated in order to remove the old CV joint. In order to get it apart, I used a tool specifically made for this purpose: a ball joint seperator. AutoZone will loan this tool to you for a refundable $15 deposit. The tool looks like a tuning fork. There is a rubber gasket where the joint comes apart. The proper procedure to seperate the joint is to place the U-shaped end of the seperator around the rubber gasket and pound on the other end with a hammer. Eventually, the joint will seperate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, with the lower ball joint seperated, I could lift the wheel hub assembly from the joint and pull it away from the CV joint. Once that was done, I found where the old CV joint was connected to the transmission. I pried the old CV joint out with a pry bar and tossed it in the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found installation of the new CV joint to be relatively straight-forward. I had one assistant hold the wheel hub assembly (It is heavy) out of the way while I slotted the new CV joint into the transmission. It took several mallet blows to drive the new CV joint all the way into the transmission. In order to avoid damaging the new CV joint, I tapped a block of wood against the CV joint instead of hitting it directly. I've read that a rubber or plastic mallet also works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the new CV joint is installed in the transmission, I simply reversed all the previous steps to put the car back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T00:50:41.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3694" CreationDate="2011-12-26T03:18:03.953" Score="2" ViewCount="21598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Infiniti FX 35. It has ~130K miles on it but new front and rear brakes were put on in the last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently, after about a month of sitting around without being driven, the car has been making a squeaking sound during breaking but only in the last foot or so of travel. Nothing until the very end when the car some to a stop there is a short squeak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My regular service repair person can't find anything wrong and is suggesting that I get it up to about 20mph and then hit the brakes hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T12:03:15.327" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T05:12:06.220" Title="Odd brake squeak only at the very end of the stop" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5829" CreationDate="2011-12-26T19:22:32.327" Score="8" ViewCount="6725" Body="&lt;p&gt;1997 Dodge GC with 180k miles, has been sitting for maybe 6 months after being driven a little, and now it won't start.  cranks fine, all electronics work, but doesn't fire.  I checked there is fuel in the fuel rails, and found no spark when testing with a timing light.  I replaced the ignition coil, but still no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as I was replacing the coil, I noticed this connector nearby that had the wires broken off the one end, and one wire detached at the other.  maybe it was chewed on?  I looked all over the engine bay for what they might connect to, but didn't see anything obvious.  looks like the wires are blue, orange, and brown/yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so my question is, where is this supposed to connect to, and could it be causing my no start condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;arrow is pointing to the connector in question&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01niR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;arrow pointing to connector&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iozy2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;connector closeup&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdbQh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:47:48.283" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T23:39:49.223" Title="1997 Dodge Grand Caravan not starting, mystery wires?" Tags="|ignition|dodge|wiring|caravan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-26T20:14:11.407" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-26T20:14:11.407" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T20:14:11.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-26T20:14:11.407" Score="0" Body="Luxury division of the Honda Motor Corporation. Available since 1986 in the US &amp; Canada." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:19.880" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-26T22:31:55.203" Score="1" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace front wheel studs on a '99 saturn w/o removing the hub.  I got the old ones out, but for the life of me can't seem to get the new ones in securely.   I attempted pressing them in with a C-clamp positioned with one side on the back of the new stud and the other side on a socket placed over the bolt, i.e. to pull the bolt into position with clamp.  That broke the clamp.  Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it comes to the point where I must remove the hub, any pointers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T18:44:54.637" Title="Replace front wheel studs '99 saturn" Tags="|wheels|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-26T23:40:52.410" Score="1" ViewCount="1835" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately, my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer has been displaying the &quot;Chk Oil&quot; light when the vehicle first starts up for more than 20 seconds - much longer than the normal dash light test. Then is turns off and stays off until the next ignition. There is plenty of oil in the tank, and it looks clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to reset the warning lights, but I want to make sure this isn't a symptom of a larger problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1352" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T23:07:12.677" Title="Check Oil Light Stays on for 20+ Seconds When 2004 Trailblazer Starts" Tags="|oil|warning-light|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1137" CreationDate="2011-12-27T05:04:31.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same problem with my 2005 Honda Civic; it just lit up all of a sudden. The thing is, the buckle gets stuffed with dirt over a certain period of time. I tried resetting (using paper clip technique) it a couple of times but no luck.&#xA;So i got this CRC contact cleaner spray can and tried to squirt it in the driver side buckles, then tried to reset it again and the light went off.&#xA;So in conclusion, honda's seatbelt buckles are not dirt resistant which affects the SRS connection. Honda should improve this sensitive part of their SRS, it should be protected from dirt and all sorts of dust which makes the SRS fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T05:04:31.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-27T17:00:39.887" Score="2" ViewCount="3875" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine pointed me this way due to my current problems; I've been working on this for three weeks and am no closer to diagnosing the issue, so hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the title says, it's a 1997 Oldsmobile 88, 3800 Series II V6 engine, I think 4T60E automatic transmission. When all this started, there had been a blizzard; the car slid off the road into a ditch. This actually didn't do anything but some cosmetic damage, but due to the slick roads, it had to remain there overnight. The next day, a friend attempted to pull it out, which got it mostly out until it slid sideways into another ditch (this time not doing any damage). This ditch was considerably longer and had a shallower approach a few hundred feet up the road, so I drove towards that point until finding a patch of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following day, the ice had melted enough that I could get the car out of the ditch once and for all; however, beginning that day, I no longer had reverse. Additionally, whenever the car got above 20mph, a few seconds later the transmission would slip and not re-engage until dropping back below that speed. It was absolutely night and day between the two days' performances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TV cable seems to be functioning properly; all connectors to the TCC seem fine, and the PCM is producing absolutely no diagnostic codes and the MIL is not coming on, though it is confirmed working. Fluid levels are correct, and the fluid looks to be in excellent condition. I initially thought I'd heard a noise, like a mildly high-pitched sputtering timed with the engine's RPM, but I think that may have been present prior to this after having studied it at length. All associated fuses I could think of are fine; that includes 5C on the driver's side, 5 on the passenger's side, and I think one more on the driver's side. The vehicle engages in Drive and all three &quot;manual&quot; gears with no problems at all; the only issues come from Reverse and what I assume is automatic overdrive. This tells me that the issue is something to do with the &quot;automatic&quot; part, but I could very well be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had no end of electrical problems with this vehicle, so I would not be surprised if this is the problem here as well. The ditch had quite a lot of tall, tough grass, so I could also believe something got knocked loose (however, I cannot make heads or tails of the underside of the engine past the two pans). I cannot afford to take it to a mechanic, and even if I could, the closest is a good 20 miles away at the very least (I'm not 100% sure; they could just be a towing service). I have a very hard time believing it's something mechanical within the transmission itself, as there was absolutely no indication of any problem before this and the state changed after having sat doing nothing for a day in an entirely level position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance at all would be greatly appreciated; I'm at my wit's end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1355" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2011-12-27T18:14:45.183" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T14:21:05.460" Title="1997 Olds 88, trans issue?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2011-12-27T18:44:54.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up pulling them through by tightening an old lug nut onto the new stud with a spacer between the nut and the hub using this technique: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX9te2iFH3E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX9te2iFH3E&lt;/a&gt; except with with a regular lug wrench instead of an impact wrench.   Well actually my dad did since he came over prepared to help me remove the hub.  Drove on it this morning and it seems fine.  I'll check later today to make sure everything is still together tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although from this video, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7RnZnnI56M&amp;amp;feature=related&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7RnZnnI56M&amp;amp;feature=related&lt;/a&gt;, I wasn't too far off with the clamp approach.  I just didn't have a heavy enough clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, you should definitely remove the caliper and rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T18:44:54.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2011-12-29T10:44:44.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford's factory 5-button keypad systems have a factory code, which is always active, and also can be programmed with a personal code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factory code is on the &quot;owner's wallet card&quot; and is also printed on the computer module.  In the '01-02 Expedition, the computer module is buried up in the dash behind the radio, though people claim you can read it with a mirror and a flashlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the factory code, you can program a personal code using the instructions in the owner's manual, e.g.: [PDF] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO5HDW/~MUS~LEN/41/05hdwog3e.pdf#page=91&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO5HDW/~MUS~LEN/41/05hdwog3e.pdf#page=91&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1357" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T10:44:44.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2555" CreationDate="2011-12-29T19:32:50.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem did end up being the fuel pump. Checked wires and fuses, but in the end it was a bad pump. The filter was also replaced, and can probably be blamed for the pump failing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T19:32:50.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2578" CreationDate="2011-12-29T21:58:35.987" Score="7" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Corolla 2008. It has an oil change light indicator. The tech at the one hour oil change place recommends to change it every 3,000 miles but the indicator light only goes off about every 5,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is correct? How often should I change my oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the light just monitor millage, or does it have sensors that test the dirtiness of the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1359" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T22:39:48.550" Title="When should I change the oil, as the tech recommends or as my oil change light indicates" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2577" CreationDate="2011-12-29T22:39:48.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the more sophisticated oil change indicators measure the way you drive and adjust for that - ie, if you're doing a lot of freeway miles you're probably getting longer intervals as that's not as hard on the oil as lots of stop and go in town. They are however making the assumption that you are using an oil that meets all the manufacturer's specification regarding viscosity, API grade and other specs. Oh, and the part that's most likely to be overlooked - an OEM or OEM quality (or better) oil filter. If you don't have the latter, you probably have to change the oil more often because of the diminished filtration quality of the oil filter. There's no point in using good oil with a good additive package that keeps the contaminants in suspension if they'll just pass through the oil filter or the oil filter's bypass valve because the filter isn't doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for OEM quality or better filters and OEM quality or better oil, follow the oil change indicator light, or if you really want to geek out, get an oil analysis done to determine how often you need to change the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the one hour oil change tech isn't wrong by suggesting 3k intervals in the sense that you won't hurt the car if you use a good oil; the only pain you'll feel is going to be in your wallet. Asking them if you need to change the oil more often than the manufacturer's recommendations is a bit like asking at McD if you should add a second cheese burger to your order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3k interval certainly made sense a couple of decades ago, but the quality of the oils and the filtration has improved massively since (again, for good quality oils), as have the manufacturing tolerances for engines. So basically now you have oils that don't break down as quickly as they used to and you've got engines that are machined to tighter tolerances and thus have less contaminants pass into the oil so you don't need to change the oil quite as often as you used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you use the cheapest oil available with the cheapest oil filter, then you should change your oil more often, or just buy better quality parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T22:39:48.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2590" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:12:26.420" Score="3" ViewCount="3786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the right rear fog light in a 2002 Vauxhall Corsa C; not just the bulb but the whole unit. I'm looking for instructions on how to replace the lamp preferably without removing the rear bumper (if at all possible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, this isn't covered by the Haynes manual for this car! Front fog-lights are, but the only mention of rear fog-lights is in a list of wattages for relevant external bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1360" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T06:15:43.627" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T14:54:37.970" Title="Replacing Vauxhall Corsa C (2002) rear fog light" Tags="|electrical|body|replace|lights|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3182" CreationDate="2011-12-30T20:29:44.870" Score="3" ViewCount="6539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly certain that my Blend Door actuator is faulty.  I get all hot air in my car, which is great for the winter, not so much for the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to replace it, and followed directions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80371191&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;autozone&lt;/a&gt; and other Q/A sites, however, I think the instructions are for a different model year.  I removed the left closeout panel, and what I thought was the knee bolster, but can't find anything that looks like the blend door actuator.  Is it somewhere else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1363" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:08:46.700" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T00:15:00.517" Title="Location of Blend Door Actuator in 2003 Chevy Malibu" Tags="|ac|chevrolet|heat|malibu|n-body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2561" CreationDate="2011-12-30T20:30:09.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing we did at the dealer was send them to the radio shop authorized by the manufacturer. You might try calling the dealer in your area and ask who they send their radios too. We sent ours to Downtown Radio Service in Raleigh NC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T20:30:09.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2583" CreationDate="2011-12-31T04:04:10.740" Score="5" ViewCount="15850" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there advantages go getting your car's oil changed at the dealership from which you purchased the car versus a &quot;quick change&quot; place like Jiffy Lube or Wal-Mart? I've used all three, and I feel the car is treated better at the dealer. Wal-Mart tends to leave a mess (oil in the seats, carpet, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T12:06:41.457" Title="Advantages of getting your car's oil changed at the dealer" Tags="|oil-change|dealer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2011-12-31T05:01:12.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I have worked at three different types of places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, it was aquick lube place in California. These can be good, if&#xA;they have good management. The bad comes in when you have bad&#xA;management, and they can &quot;sell&quot; things and not do them. These focus&#xA;mostly on services they sell, and really glance at all other things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, it was a place like Sears/Midas, this place offers a wider&#xA;range of services/repairs. I believe these places are more worthy of&#xA;your trust, as the chain is large and customer service is important&#xA;as even one bad report can really damage their image. Again, they&#xA;don't usually look at your whole vehicle, but glance at it a little&#xA;more in depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, I worked at a BMW dealership. I found that the vehicle here&#xA;is looked at deeper, as mechanics get paid by the job. There is no&#xA;pay without work, but sometimes this means you get &quot;hassled&quot; at the&#xA;dealer. Also, it is very dependent on your mechanic/location, if the place is full of dirt bags you will have a bad experience.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My honest opinion is that you find aplace, and get to know the people. The more a mechanic knows your car, the easier it is to &quot;treat&quot; it; look at it like a family doctor. The type of place really is irrelevant, it is the people in it that matter. You can have great service from a quick lube place, and really mediocre service from a world class dealer. In my experience, investigate the people and see if they earned your work again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T05:01:12.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2571" CreationDate="2011-12-31T22:34:52.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second-guessing the root cause is not necessary. If you have access to an OBDII reader (roadside mechanics usually do nowadays), you can hook it up to the OBDII port and get a clear indication of what sensor is generating the warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I faced something similar recently and learnt that my oil pressure switch needed replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T22:34:52.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2573" CreationDate="2012-01-01T19:57:47.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel for you. I have the exact same problem, with the same car, and I believe for the same reason. My son tried to get his Mother out of a snowbank, and I am sure he revved the piss out of the engine to do it. Enough said, I messed up a few of my Dad's cars so I can't throw stones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any codes? Be patient, and follow a deliberate plan to get this fixed. I would suggest a qualified electrical test be done, and get a print out if possible. It will be cheaper than just changing out parts. Most test are done by people that rebuild transmissions, and they may have a bias. I only drive 2 miles to work and back so I have not felt pressed to get it rebuilt. There are some great, honest auto repair people out there, but it is better safe than sorry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite what you think is good fluid (you are probably correct) It may not be a bad idea to do a pan drop, fluid/filter change. This messy, but you will get a good look at any debris in your pan, and you will know for sure that it is good. I installed and drain plug on mine, because I anticipated having to do this more frequently than most. The first change is the tough one, after that the plug makes it a breeze. Next change I believe I will use synthetic, if I can find a good deal. You may have loosened some debris in your pan that somehow messed with other parts. I waited to long to do my fluid change, and probably damaged my transmission. Do not have a power flush done on it, if anything have a gentle fluid exchange done, it is supposed to clean out the Torque Converter also. We are talking about a 14 year old car, so gentle is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck to you, report any success you may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1365" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T19:57:47.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2573" CreationDate="2012-01-01T22:10:32.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the transmission is not getting fully engaged. Symptoms of a not fully engaged transmission can include missing reverse, missing drive, limited power, grinding and clicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the linkage to the shifter?  Also, check the motor mounts because a broken motor mount can  move the transmission and cause the shifter linkage be out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T22:10:32.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-02T00:12:27.233" Score="2" ViewCount="5098" Body="&lt;p&gt;recently the rear diff in my 1998 land rover freelander has gone (makes a horrible clicking sound around corners). The car has been a constant pain and i was wondering what is actually the cause of the noise (possibly worn teeth of diff?) and if it is possible to remove the rear diff from the car. This looks like a fairly simple process after a quick look, and wear and tear is a small concern as im looking at flogging it off as soon as i can. The car is permanent 4wd and has no middle diff between the front and rear, instead it uses a viscous coupling. thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T01:55:55.063" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T03:53:35.167" Title="Can i remove the rear diff in my land rover freelander?" Tags="|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T05:16:33.440" Score="11" ViewCount="67387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went in for an oil change recently and the Jiffy Lube technician tried to up sell me on buying a better oil for my car, and on buying a more expensive air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a fairly normal compact car (Toyota Prius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brands have several options in 3 grades Napa (includes silver midgrade for most vehicles though evidently not the Prius), And some higher priced brands claim to have superior performance over lower priced brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any performance benefits to the more expensive versions of the air filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T18:00:01.617" Title="Do premium air filters perform better than standard air filters?" Tags="|air-filter|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2588" CreationDate="2012-01-03T11:12:13.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're going to spend a lot of money on a cleanable K&amp;amp;N type filter, I'm not aware of any real benefits to upgraded air filters - it's basically a folded sheet of cardboard after all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is worth it, however, is getting a better quality oil filter. Many cheaper oil filters miss out the anti-drain-down valve that is commonly found on OEM filters, meaning the oil drains back to the sump when the engine is off, taking longer to get back up to pressure again and thus causing more wear to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the oil itself is concerned, I would always recommend going for the grade recommended by the manufacturer on any modern car. Bear in mind that the technicians are always going to try and get you to buy the more expensive version as they make more profit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T11:12:13.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2579" CreationDate="2012-01-03T14:02:07.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've search for an online procedure, without success. But looking how the lamp is built, it's looks like you have 2 bracket on each side of the lamp. Unless you can access it from behind the bumper (which I doubt), you'll need to remove the bumper. If unsure, maybe take some pictures of your setup and update your original post with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one image of that fog lamp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFaZ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T14:02:07.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2588" CreationDate="2012-01-03T14:14:39.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air filters are one of those things that can have real measurable effects.  However, the measurements are often more hassle than normal people are willing to tolerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;: I don't think you'd be able to detect a change in performance on a Prius.  I recommend that you don't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air filters have measurable properties that can be broadly lumped into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air flow (more is better)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Particulate removal (less junk is better)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hassle (this depends on the person)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure the &lt;strong&gt;air flow&lt;/strong&gt; of a particular air filter, you will need two pressure gauges and fittings to punch into the air intake path before and after the filter installation.  In the interest of full disclosure, even I lose interest in the experiment at this point.  However, if you're willing to do the legwork, you can empirically determine which filter has the best flow for your particular car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring &lt;strong&gt;particulate removal&lt;/strong&gt; is more of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mythbusters/db/myth-files.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mythbusters&lt;/a&gt; affair.  You'd need to assemble a tiny wind tunnel that can force a measured amount of particulates of the relevant size (usually sand and dust).  Measure the amount of grit that you blow into the system and measure the amount that makes it through to the other side.  The best filters in this category will be the most effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of notes about that last measurement.  First, you'd be essentially testing the filter to destruction.  Secondly, &lt;strong&gt;high air flow and high particulate removal are somewhat at odds&lt;/strong&gt;, depending on the technology of the filter.  For example, a foam filter that gets its regularly scheduled oil spray can often separate out a lot of particulates using fairly loose pores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings us straight to &lt;strong&gt;hassle&lt;/strong&gt;.  On a previous car, I put in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aemintakes.com/Sport-Compact.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AEM cold-air intake&lt;/a&gt; which was great in terms of freeing the intake path for that little four cylinder.  However, the air filter needed to be sprayed with oil and getting to it was a major pain (it was positioned down in the right front fender).  I later replaced the whole intake with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.comptechusa.com/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comptech&lt;/a&gt; ice box (when they were still making parts for the rest of us).  That moved the filter up to a more OEM-like position without losing the airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my current car, I'm doing &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt;.  I'm using the OEM air filter on my WRX because nobody has managed to convince me that it's worth changing filter types.  I also don't want an oil soaked filter sitting in front of my turbo intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T14:14:39.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2920" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:14:38.940" Score="1" ViewCount="3187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE and I've noticed that when I hit a sharp bump (like a shallow pothole) that the car seems to shudder or vibrate for a second.  The car just hit 100k miles on the odometer about a week ago.  The feeling reminds me of hitting a brick wall with a baseball bat...  I suspect I might need to replace the shocks, but I'm not sure.  I also am wondering if I need new shocks if I should replace all 4, or just the front, and if this is a task a shade tree mechanic could do without killing himself...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1370" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T11:59:59.463" Title="Car shudders when I hit a sharp bump (2003 Maxima)" Tags="|suspension|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3558" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:26:47.713" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to follow these instructions for my similar TSX:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540405&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I haven't found the proper way to remove the front ceiling light cover (the one with the garage door opener, sunroof power, lights, rearview mirror power, etc).  I think it doesn't involve any screws, just a thin shim in the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me get it off without scratching, breaking, or unnecessary steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T00:31:36.833" Title="Access to front ceiling light box on a 2006 Acura TSX" Tags="|acura|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12496" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:32:10.577" Score="3" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;My TSX is coding P2422 - EVAP Canister Shut Valve close malfunction.  I'm finding posts online that it is often a blockage (spider nest??) that can be blown out with air.  I'd like to try that first before parts and labor to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I access the EVAP Canister Vent Valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the repair wait until a warm spring Saturday without consequence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T00:48:44.200" Title="Access to EVAP Canister Vent Valve" Tags="|emissions|acura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:26:36.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I remember, rear diffs and the viscous centre diff are known problem areas on the Freelander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the rear diff, the viscous centre diff will attempt to compensate for what it believes is a permanent no-grip condition at the rear wheels. Chances are that you'll blow up the centre diff in very short order if you do that. So no, I wouldn't recommend just removing the rear diff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, a horrible clicking noise from the back can be something as simple as a bearing on the way out. I'd have someone who's familiar with these vehicles take a look. A quick Google found a copy of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myfreelander.co.uk/Transmission/fdprobs4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;warranty bulletin detailing&lt;/a&gt; a bearing issue on early Freelanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:26:36.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-04T00:25:37.270" Score="1" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I noticed that the wire going to the starter from the solinoid was broken off at the connection, so I resoldered it, and it ran for a few weeks until this happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went out to start my truck and it just clicked when i tried to turn it over. I pushed it into the garage and replaced the starter with a used one. Went to start truck and all it did was turn the starter but wouldn't fire up and run. I tested the sensors and it read to replace crankshaft position sensor along with the MAP sensor. Still doesn't want to run. I replaced the spark plugs, but left one out to check for spark against the metal frame didn't see any spark.  Not sure what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T20:30:39.377" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T20:30:39.377" Title="2000 Chevy Silverado 5.3L turns over but won't start, no spark" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-04T12:53:17.023" Score="1" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a car audio unit on Lancer 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I have a 2-din panel, that I am unable to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqMcc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lancer 9 audio panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pull the panel at the mark &quot;1&quot; - it is being released a bit on the bottom, but something is still tightly holding it on the top side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reach out to the mark &quot;2&quot; from the inside of a panel (reachable via opened glove box), I feel there is a philips screw there, that I assumably able to unscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: What else do I need to unscrew, to remove the installed audio unit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:37:41.840" Title="Replacing car audio on Lancer 9" Tags="|replace|audio|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2012-01-04T15:37:41.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Panels like that are usually removed after removing the head unit. I'm guessing from the picture that it is an aftermarket unit, so you should be able to get an appropriate removal tool (these vary according to the make of the head unit) from your local car accessories shop. Use the tool(s) to remove the head unit, and you'll find a metal cage behind it, usually held in with bent metal tabs. un-bend the tabs to remove the cage, and you'll probably find the screws for the fascia panel behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:37:41.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2978" CreationDate="2012-01-04T21:11:24.350" Score="3" ViewCount="71909" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought an 03 Mustang from an auction and took it on a trip.  The anti-theft system kicked in and I had to disconnect/reconnect the battery to get it working again.  That worked a few times and I thought it would continue to work until I got home where I would get it looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it stopped working altogether and I had to tow it to a dealership.  I asked them to disable the anti-theft system altogether but they tell me that's not an option and I have to fix it.  A call to my regular mechanic who I trust confirmed that they were telling the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've seen webpages talking about 'tunes' and 'tuners' (I have no idea what that is though) you can get to disable it and referencing Mustangs specifically and I'm pretty sure one page was even specifically talking about the '03 Mustang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:  Is there a way to just disable the anti-theft system?  I'm not worried about anyone stealing my car but I definitely don't wanted to get stranded several states way from home ever again so if there's a way to do it I'd sure like to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1376" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T15:28:03.720" Title="Can I disable antitheft (PATS) on 03 Mustang?" Tags="|electrical|ford|security|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2604" CreationDate="2012-01-04T22:06:07.137" Score="1" ViewCount="23848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or is it better if we do them in two different places?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MOT Test = Ministry of Transport Test - an annual test carried out on vehicles over 3yrs old in the UK to ensure they are roadworthy (i.e. safe and meet emission standards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1378" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T13:46:51.843" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T16:03:06.697" Title="Is it a good idea to have MOT and Full service at the same time?" Tags="|service|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2601" CreationDate="2012-01-05T15:08:44.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends entirely on your budget rather than good practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it is far more convenient to do the two together and there is a chance of a reduction in labour costs if they are done at the ame time by the same garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also need a full service at the time, in which case definitely, but if it is not absolutely necessary then I would say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to look after the pennies then you may choose to do the service at another time due to the yearly cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is wise to spread all annual costs of motoring over the year, such as Insurance, Tax, Service and MOT so that you always have the finance in place to be able to do this, otherwise you can end up without a car for a while&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1314" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T15:08:44.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-05T15:21:13.597" Score="1" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Renault Megane I 1.4 RT's airconditioning pump recently totally seized. When the seize happened, it also broke off the crank pulley. I have now replaced both the airconditioning pump and crank pulley, but the airconditioning pump is still not turning. I have also tested all relays on the relay board, checked all fuses on the fuse board and even reconnected the old aircon pump, which at this point is still able to be turned by the electrical system. Coincidentally, the old one will not turn when connected to the car. Anyone have an idea why the aircon pump is not getting power? Is there another relay/fuse I can check not located necessarily near the fuse/relay boards that I already checked? Any fuses/relays that are located in obscure places that anyone know of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:25:55.820" Title="Renault Megane I 1.6 Airconditioning pump seized" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2601" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:03:06.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how much you trust your garage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a 'proper' by-the-book MOT, the best places to go can often be council-run MOT centres. These are run for their own benefit (i.e. to test municipal vehicles), and don't offer any other services, so they are less inclined to try and con you out of other work like some less scrupulous garages have been known to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Graeme says, some garages will offer you a discount if you get a service done at the same time as the test, but I am always wary of places that offer such things too cheaply. I have heard stories of cars coming back from a service in a worse state than they went (e.g. not changing the oil or filter on the basis that many customers wouldn't know the difference between new and old).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to find a small, local, reliable garage (ask around your friend/neighbours/colleagues for recommendations) and build up a rapport with them. They might charge a bit more than a big chain (typically they will charge full price for the MOT for example, but will usually be a lot cheaper than a dealer for labour), but they will give you a much better service. As an example, I've had testers look over the car before starting the official test and point things out to me, or adjust things like headlamp aim, that would otherwise have failed the test. Especially useful when you have a lamp fail on the way to the test!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for timings, I tend to have each done when it is needed. If they happen to coincide, so be it, otherwise I'll do them separately. Admittedly, I tend to do most of my servicing myself (much cheaper!), so arranging garage appointments is less of an issue. I find the cost of the MOT is fairly minimal compared to the other costs of motoring, so spacing that out isn't as important - Unless, of course, a lot of work is needed! It is good practice to make sure that the MOT isn't due at the same time as the tax however, as you'll inevitably end up rushing to get it done to get the paperwork in place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T16:03:06.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:10:26.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms you described have 3 common causes on Honda/Acura vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First: the &quot;shoulda&quot; disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Reporting the code that drives that check engine light you saw is the most important piece of information you could give us. Without that code everything is blind diagnosis (guesswork) based on a myriad of personal experiences. This is the most inefficient way for you to get your answers. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Before attempting to replace parts or diagnose via this thread please go retrieve the code, many parts stores will check it for free.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common Causes of your symptom&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Main Relay&lt;/em&gt; - The main relay has a responsibility for delivering&#xA;power to your fuel pump. If you turn the key into the run position&#xA;without cranking the car you should hear a buzzing sound from the&#xA;rear of the car as the fuel pump runs until a programmed pressure&#xA;threshold for the fuel system is achieved. If you hear the fuel pump&#xA;and the car starts then this is probably not the problem. This&#xA;part's failure does not typically cause a check engine light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ignition Module&lt;/em&gt; - The ignition module is a compact device located in&#xA;the engine compartment . Sometimes the manufacturer's construction&#xA;of this device will allow internal solder points to become brittle&#xA;and open circuits can occur most commonly when a vehicle is warmed&#xA;up or external temperatures are extremely hot. Typically the&#xA;beginning sign of a failing ignition module (igniter) is hard start&#xA;problems when the car is hot. Eventually it will completely fail.&#xA;This module's failure will cause a check engine light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad Grounds/Connections&lt;/em&gt; - This is the most uncommon and most&#xA;difficult problem source to solve since it involves referencing&#xA;several logical paths of operation and testing those paths .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about all I have from common issues I've encountered for the problem you have reported. The injector leak down response has slight credibility based on some reading I've done, though I've never seen injector leakdown keep a Honda from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T16:10:26.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:27:00.477" Score="0" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the belt and the idler pulley, the 6 cylinder 2005 Chevrolet Silverado still has a high pitch squeal.  Have not checked the power steerinmg or water pump to see if the noise is coming from there.  What is the fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1382" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:44:56.853" Title="Engine squealing" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2606" CreationDate="2012-01-05T18:58:11.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you'll have to find the source.  There's a lot of things that can make a belt-like squeal.  I've heard it from fuel pumps and even an oil pump before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T18:58:11.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3657" CreationDate="2012-01-05T22:54:26.950" Score="2" ViewCount="16341" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mother-in-law's 2005 Renault Clio (auto) shifts very late and stays in too low a gear. When decelerating the tranny downshifts early (it really likes the revs). The garages all want a heafty sum to even pop the hood. Might the issue be something simple such as low tranny fluid level? Anything else that I might check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no 'sport' mode or 'snow' mode that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T00:06:28.400" Title="Auto transmission shifting late, staying in low gear" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2012-01-06T00:36:50.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like &quot;Cleatus&quot; the slack-jawed yokel changed your fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, there are lots of tiny little metal filings floating around in that stuff. The more that stuff moves around the more it scratches and wears out your transmission. Then you have half of your new transmission fluid filter life because, instead of all new CLEAN fluid, half of it is already full of filings that will now get trapped in the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not go to that mechanic again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T17:57:06.217" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T17:57:06.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2597" CreationDate="2012-01-06T11:52:33.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;HAve you tested the battery? If you have a bad battery, it could cause the starter to click like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T11:52:33.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2012-01-06T11:57:33.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would probably have to have someone recode your ECU, as they are usually intertwined with the anti-theft system to ensure the engine will not start. I don't think they can really be disabled easily thought. Cars with systems like this can be triggered by bad keys as well, so check that out. The key can and will go bad, and this could make you think the car is acting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T11:57:33.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2606" CreationDate="2012-01-06T13:10:53.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to need to provide more information.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the noise coming from?  Engine bay?  Front, middle or rear?  High or low?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the noise constant, only at start-up / when cold or only sometimes when driving?  Is it a constant pitch or dependent on revs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other symptoms?  Odd gauge behavior or readings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking over your engine, I'd worry about the power steering the most.  I had an odd power steering problem not too long ago after a kinetic encounter with a deer.  The pump was starved after the impact due to loss of fluid but wasn't replaced (no visible damage).  After getting the car back, everything seemed fine while driving until I'd been on the road for a bit.  After the car was warm, though, I'd get odd noises and really strange hydraulic behavior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brian is right, though: go and listen to the pumps on the car and see whether the noise is actually coming from one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T13:10:53.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2012-01-06T13:55:37.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Land Cruiser with an automatic transmission. If I drain the transmission with the drain plug, I only drain 40% of my transmission fluid. The rest of the fluid is, in my case, circulating through the transmission fluid cooler, transfer case and gearbox. I only drain what is in the pan. The Toyota Factory Manual does not state any full fluid flush for my vehicle. (Here is a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/94126-transmission-filter-clean-results.html#post1155843&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rodney Flush&lt;/a&gt;&quot; that does change all the fluid). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/220061-photo-diy-rx300-awd-transmission-fluid-pan-filter-change.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a DIY for the RX300&lt;/a&gt; that flushes all the transmission fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: if the Lexus technician left 50% of the oil intentionally, I'll be worried. But, I bet he has done a &quot;drain &amp;amp; refill&quot; that left some old oil in the system, and I'm sure that's what the Lexus Factory Manual has stated to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If unsure, call the dealer and ask for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T18:18:14.813" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T18:18:14.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2615" CreationDate="2012-01-07T00:54:54.803" Score="17" ViewCount="49975" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 2.0L Golf GLS won't blow hot air at operating temperature, the air is only lukewarm at best. This started a few months ago inexplicably. The car isn't overheating or underheating, it reaches operating temperature in the same amount of time as before. Here's what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked coolant level - there's plenty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flushed coolant system - the previous owner mentioned this same problem and a flush solved it for him, no such luck for me. Ran some Prestone Flush, then flushed water twice, then refilled with regular Prestone (not G12, I know). The only thing that worries me here is that I never felt like I was able to drain &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the fluid when flushing (always found: amount in &gt; amount out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bled coolant system - elevated the passenger side (where the bottle is) by driving up onto a snow bank, let it run for 3 minutes. Coolant level didn't change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested thermostat - works correctly and opens right about 195 F. Note that on this vehicle the thermostat blocks off the radiator loop, not the heater core loop which is separate and not controlled by a thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked for heater core blockage - using the input and output connections at the firewall I was able to pass fluid through the core using both gravity and light pressure. Flow rate was substantial, don't suspect blockage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked water pump flow rate - using a clear hose I bypassed the heater core altogether and ran coolant from the engine block output straight back to the coolant bottle. At idle the pump wasn't able to overcome gravity to push up and into the bottle, but as soon as the engine rev'd coolant pumped quickly and with ease.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked water pump - OEM VW pumps use a plastic impeller and I suspected it had broken. Pulled the pump and found it was already the metal impeller kind; turns out the previous owner replaced it 2 years ago. Put the old one back in, it's still good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car doesn't have Climatronic, just the standard climate control system; does that mean it's cable or vacuum controlled? At this point I'm wondering if there isn't simply a fan control gate that's stuck or something. Even though I was able to pass water through it, are there any gates or controls within the heater core itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the heater core is a 8-16 hour DIY job or $850 down at the shop, and I'm not prepared to do either. Short of actually looking at the core, is there anything else I can try, check, or do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all, I've been wracking my brain with this one and would love input! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying my best not to I decided to replace the core. I used a very helpful &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4188858-DIY-MK-IV-Heater-Core-Replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VWVortex guide&lt;/a&gt; along with a Chilton's manual. 14 hours later I've got air that measures significantly hotter than before, so now it's time to wait and see how things go this winter. I found that I don't have a split HVAC box even though I don't have the Climatronic system (major letdown) and that the flappy bits inside the box were in great shape and moved freely. The old heater core was definitely clogged; simply trying to blow air through it was difficult. For your enjoyment here's what the car looked like when I was finally able to remove the core:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqp7o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2000 VW Golf dash guts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1385" LastEditorUserId="1385" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T17:12:52.783" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T14:16:54.560" Title="2000 VW Golf heater won't blow hot air" Tags="|vw|heat|coolant|golf|heater|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2614" CreationDate="2012-01-07T01:40:30.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks an awful lot like you have diagnosed all of the really hard problems and come up negative.  I wonder if you have a simple mechanical problem: is the linkage sound between the hot / cold selector and the flapper valve that forces air past the heater core.  From what I hear, the foam around the flapper is also prone to disintegration in humid climates: that would allow all or most of your heated air to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; I did manage to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4188858-DIY-MK-IV-Heater-Core-Replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reasonable annotated heater core replacement&lt;/a&gt;.  I think you're right: this job is a huge pain.  And, no, I can't think of a way to get at the internal air direction valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yet another EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; Thinking about the diagnosis further, it occurs that you might be able to establish whether you have a bad seal on the flapper valve.  This will work best on a very cold day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the car up to operating temperature with heater set to coldest and vent fan off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the vent fan to the least speed that will blow detectable airflow.  This will ensure that you're not feeling artificially cold from the wooshing air from max vent fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check this baseline temperature as best you can: if you don't have a good thermometer, I find that a sniff test works for me.  Seriously, the inside of your nose and sinuses are very sensitive to temperature.  That's how I've detemined what coats and hats my kids needed to wear to school for years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the heater to max (this is where you'll hear the clunk of that valve flapping over).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for what heat is available to make it's way down the vent (i.e., a few minutes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the temperature again.  If you have a working valve with a bad seal, you'll note a slight temperature change (see previous note on sniff test).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, even with all of the above, fixing any of these problems will be approximately the same level of hassle.  You're going to have to take off the dash, etc.  My hope is that, if you do invest the time, you'll know what you're looking for.  I'm pretty sure that this isn't a job that you're going to want to do twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T12:38:14.787" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T12:38:14.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2614" CreationDate="2012-01-07T04:36:27.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could check the temperature of the hoses going to and from the heater core from the engine side of the firewall when the vehicle is warm and with the heater on.  If both hoses are warm, then you are getting coolant flow through the heater core and your problem is likely inside the vehicle with the air control flaps, possibly the foam seal has come loose and is blocking the warm air flow.  If only one hose is warm, then you aren't getting much coolant flow through the heater core and your problem probably lies in the engine compartment.  Some vehicles have a vacuum operated valve the turns off the water flow when the heater isn't required, the valve might be stuck, it would be installed in of the heater hoses under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1386" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T04:36:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-07T19:48:18.443" Score="1" ViewCount="6849" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for directions on replacing the washer-fluid pump on a 2008 Chevy Equinox. I've found that the fuse works both the pump and the wipers, and the wipers still work. Seeing as I do not hear the pump run I'm guessing it's a failure in the pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump it's self is at the bottom on the tank. The tank is right in front of the drivers wheel well. But from what I can see I'm not able to access the pump from the wheel well or under the vehicle. I'm also not able to just pull the whole tank as it's got feet that hook under the battery mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or pointers are welcome. Hopefully I've given enough detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1387" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T17:43:18.080" Title="How to replace a washer-fluid pump on 2008 Equinox" Tags="|chevrolet|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2573" CreationDate="2012-01-07T21:55:02.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem discovered upon dropping the transmission pan. Large chunks of the reverse input drum were present in the ATF. Fixing this would require a complete transmission rebuild, so, as I only paid $1000 for the car, I'm going to have it scrapped. Thanks for your help everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T21:55:02.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2620" CreationDate="2012-01-08T00:27:38.150" Score="3" ViewCount="2148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every 6-8 months, one of the headlight bulbs on my 2002 Ford Escape burns out.  I used to replace just the one but usually the other would go within a couple of months.  Now, I just replace them both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not buying the expensive lights that, according to the packaging, don't last as long.  Even if I were, 6-8 months of life seems really short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be another cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T22:06:05.500" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T14:24:04.020" Title="Why does my 2002 Ford Escape go through so many headlight bulbs?" Tags="|ford|headlight|cd2|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2012-01-08T07:44:18.280" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be you. I've heard from several sources that when installing light bulbs you should not touch the glass at all. When you touch the glass, any dirt/grease from your fingers will end up on the glass and will cause the bulb to run hotter than usual.  This might cause premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know how much of this is accurate or even if it's true but whenever I handle light bulbs I've always followed this advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the only thing I'd suggest is to check voltages to make sure light bulbs are not receiving more volts than what they are designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: So I got curious and did a little googling.  Apparently, this is not a myth at all. Can't touch the glass. Just one of may examples: &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.discovery.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7501919888/m/9491944379&quot;&gt;http://community.discovery.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7501919888/m/9491944379&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastEditorUserId="509" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T08:44:36.627" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T08:44:36.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-08T15:36:56.717" Score="1" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's sonata recently failed inspection because it has no parking light on the driver's side, and apparently no socket to hold the bulb (The assembly had previously been damaged and we installed a replacement we bought on ebay). I don't want to shell out another $200 for another assembly, it is possible to find just this one part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T03:10:28.980" Title="How can I find replacement parts for a Hyundai Sonata headlight assembly?" Tags="|headlight|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-09T01:58:47.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my 1996 Jaguar XJR is just stopping at random. It happens when the car is doing low RPM, like when I am coming/stading at a stop light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on where to start to troubleshoot this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Car works fine on higher revs - as long as I have the gas pedal pressed just a little bit - no problem! However, sometimes, even if I am driving like 50km/h, and let go of my gas pedal, the rpms just drop to zero, and the car gets really quite. Sometimes I find that dropping the car into neutral helps (yes, it's automatic gearbox), as the rpms then level off at about 2k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I would like to say that the idea of SO car site is an amazing idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1391" LastEditorUserId="1391" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T11:14:20.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T02:16:56.257" Title="Dying car, at random intervals" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2012-01-09T02:44:35.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend going to the dealer for just the plug, as to avoid any wrong electrical parts. They should be able to order just that connector, or socket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T02:44:35.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2614" CreationDate="2012-01-09T02:48:00.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If VW are anything like a BMW, there should be a valve that allows for hot coolant to flow through the heater. If this valve fails, you get no flow and the air never heats up. The valves are electric on BMWs, so looks for a valve that has your heater hoses going through it and check for operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T02:48:00.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2627" CreationDate="2012-01-09T08:55:07.820" Score="3" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mazda 6 diesel 2003 136hp and a problem with a fuel pump.&#xA;It seems that the suction control valve (SCV) needs to be replaced.&#xA;The problem is that the car will not start and I have to go to garage by myself.&#xA;Is there any way to make it running just for once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about pulling it over another car and try to start the engine from a gear, but I am not sure if that will help if the fuel pump is stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1392" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T10:28:57.060" Title="Starting the car with dis-functioning fuel pump" Tags="|fuel-system|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2622" CreationDate="2012-01-09T09:17:07.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My alfa romeo used to do this - turned out it was a really dirty throttle body - never found out why it got so dirty but cleaning it fixed it instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T09:17:07.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2625" CreationDate="2012-01-09T10:28:57.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tow-starting won't work if you've not got any fuel going to the engine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the fuel pump? Is it somewhere that is fairly easy to remove, and just take the pump itself to be repaired rather than the whole car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I'm afriad you'll have to get a tow - most garages will offer such a service for a small fee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T10:28:57.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2622" CreationDate="2012-01-09T10:40:39.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it idle properly at other times, or dies it die every time you let the revs drop? Does it work properly at higher revs, or is it lower on power than you might normally expect? Does it seem 'lumpier' than usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a car not running well at idle is caused by a weak or mistimed spark, or poor fuel supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the spark plugs recently? Make sure they are in good condition and are correctly gapped. I can't remember what sort of ignition system jags of that age used, but if it is adjustable, check the ignition timing. If it has a distributor, replace the rotor arm and distributor cap, and check or replace the HT leads. If it has individual coil packs, check they are all working properly - a failure of one or two could cause it to drop out at idle while still seeming to work properly under load. Clean the injectors and/or throttle bodies, and clean or replace the fuel filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T10:40:39.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2012-01-09T12:59:40.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Engine_knocking#Abnormal_combustion&quot;&gt;A different portion of the article&lt;/a&gt; that @Larry cites may make the acoustics a bit more clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When unburned fuel/air mixture beyond the boundary of the flame front&#xA;  is subjected to a combination of heat and pressure for a certain&#xA;  duration (beyond the delay period of the fuel used), detonation may&#xA;  occur. Detonation is characterized by an instantaneous, explosive&#xA;  ignition of at least one pocket of fuel/air mixture outside of the&#xA;  flame front. A local shockwave is created around each pocket and the&#xA;  cylinder pressure may rise sharply beyond its design limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shockwave will impact the inner walls of the cylinders (and the valves).  While that impact might not make a distinctly metallic sound itself, the entire cylinder and engine block is going to act like a resonance chamber.  It's going to ring (or clank) like a very large oddly shaped bell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simulate the same effect: hit a tuning fork with a rubber mallet.  The tuning fork will ring even though you'd think that such a dull impact wouldn't make a clean tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T12:59:40.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2622" CreationDate="2012-01-10T02:16:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, I would second cleaning the throttle body but more importantly get the idle control valve checked out. If that one is a bit &quot;lazy&quot; (usually because it's clogged), closing the throttle fully might starve the engine of air for long enough to die before the idle control supplies enough air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with checking that the throttle position sensor has a working idle indicator (usually a switch) and that it's adjusted correctly. If the TPS doesn't signal &quot;idle&quot; to the engine when the throttle body is closed, that's a problem right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also look at the idle control valve itself and check if it's possible to clean that with some throttle body cleaner. It might just be a little sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T02:16:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T03:05:17.143" Score="1" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do some of my own repair work on my car, a 96 Infiniti G20. Since I got it, the front speakers haven't been working and I want to fix them. How can I troubleshoot the problem? I assume it's either the speakers themselves or the stereo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remove my console panel to get at the stereo?&#xA;How can I easily test the stereo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note: my cd player doesn't have a removable faceplate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my console&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OC6JH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of console&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-04-09T23:32:53.497" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T23:41:28.370" Title="Accessing the Stereo in a '96 Infiniti G20" Tags="|troubleshooting|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2635" CreationDate="2012-01-10T08:55:39.157" Score="4" ViewCount="4598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed yesterday that the vehicle I'm driving (2011 or 2012 Hyundai Accent &quot;Blue&quot;), is slowly leaking a cold, clear, mostly odourless, bad tasting fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the colour and temperature I imagine this can't be A/C fluid, oil, gasoline, coolant, transmission fluid.  About the only thing I could think of was that this was either water for the wipers - but the leak is not directly under the engine bay, and why would piping run under the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I could think of was that this is from condensation - something to do with one of the A/C components.  I am using the A/C system heavily as currently where I'm staying is around 20C at night, never mind during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I troubleshoot this further? (one idea: check if fluids are leaking with the vehicle off, then on, then on with A/C, and repeat this test after getting home once the car is warm and has been driven for a while).  My other idea was to dump food colouring into my water reservoir and see if the leak colour changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And - how likely is it that I'm correct in my assumption of what this liquid is?  Do I need to be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T22:13:15.330" Title="Slow, clear fluid leak" Tags="|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2012-01-10T12:56:18.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To remove the radio you should just be able to unscrew the faceplate holding it in and then unplug the electrical connectors from the back of it as you pull it out. However if you need to follow the cables you may need to remove the dash itself, so a quick guide on how to do that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the glove compartment by removing the screws under and inside the glove compartment and then pulling it out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the radio - as already described&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the doors open, unscrew all the screws and bolts around the dashboard&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the dashboard forward enough so you can unplug the electrical connectors behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can then slide the dashboard out the passenger side door.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T12:56:18.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2633" CreationDate="2012-01-10T13:13:33.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are correct in diagnosing this as condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please don't taste anything that comes out of your car!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my suggestions for confirming that hypothesis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put down a big sheet of butcher paper (or similar cheap light colored paper that will show leaks) on a dry spot where you will be parking after running the AC for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the car over the paper.  Make some reference marks on the paper to note the exact position of the car: e.g., door edge, wheel arch rear &amp;amp; front, license plate edges, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the car off and wait about five minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the car back off the paper and examine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would expect to see is a distinct puddle of (possibly nasty) water underneath the evaporator drain hose.  This should be on the passenger side of the firewall and there's an obvious hose that, if you crawled under there, would still be wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T13:13:33.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T14:44:45.607" Score="1" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car (1971 Jaguar E-Type 6 cylinder) with a bad starter relay.  The original relay is not available, and all of the specialty parts suppliers sell a generic replacement relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to pick up a generic replacement relay locally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original relay when energized connects &lt;strong&gt;3 contacts&lt;/strong&gt; with each other (+12V, the solenoid, and a wire that makes the spark hotter).  Most relays only connect 2 contacts together, but there are plenty with more terminals that probably do exactly what I want.  Any DPDT or DPST (if such a thing exists) relay would work.  I just can't find any resource that gives a wiring diagram for these relays or a description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire connections need to be 1/4&quot; spade lugs, and I need a tab sticking out to hang it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could provide a part number for a relay that is common enough that it would be available locally I would really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T18:44:37.917" Title="Does anyone know of a commonly available DPDT or DPST relay? (For use as replacement starter relay)" Tags="|electrical|parts|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2638" CreationDate="2012-01-10T19:29:44.477" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back around 2003-2006 I looked into V-Tech which was using a variable cam lobe with a more agressive profile that engaged when &quot;needed&quot;. Today, we have motors with a continuously variable valve timing and no cam at all. Are V-Tech motors still in production and if so, do they still use the same technology or have they moved to a variable, cam-less setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T20:40:08.853" Title="v-tech now vs then" Tags="|engine|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2637" CreationDate="2012-01-10T20:40:08.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC#i-VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;i-VTEC&lt;/a&gt; is definitely camshaft based - it does have the ability to vary the intake came quite a bit.  Honda has submitted the patents for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC#AVTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AVTEC&lt;/a&gt; but has not yet put them into production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T20:40:08.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T03:17:41.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual states that for a 2003-2007 Honda Accord, the timing belt should be replaced at an 8 year or 105,000 mile mark.  I just inherited a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan from my father who purchased this car new in 2004.  He drove a total of 55,000 miles in the 8 years in which he owned the vehicle.  I feel stuck because I don't want the belt to snap off, causing severe damage to the valves and pistons, but I also don't want to replace a perfectly functioning belt with 50,000 more miles of service left.  I would inspect the belt and if you see any kind of cracking or fading of any kind, replace the belt, especially if you are already oncerned and aware that you need the timing belt serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T06:01:38.900" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T06:01:38.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T16:14:43.023" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a throttling valve that uses oil in order to convert pressure into thermal energy that can then be extracted via a cooler. Is there such a thing as a oil throttling valve? It would also need to handle fairly large pressures (1000 - 3000 psi). The whole idea is to dissipate approximately 400 kW of power during the most extreme situation. Does anyone know of a better way to convert kinetic energy (spinning shaft) into thermal energy for extraction? Btw this is a fairly large vehicle (about the size of a dump truck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Digimas &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T18:08:04.493" Title="Is there such a thing as a throttling valve that can operate with oil as the working fluid?" Tags="|pcv-valve|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2643" CreationDate="2012-01-11T19:30:18.160" Score="1" ViewCount="1732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Civic and recently installed an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SvwAaIz3ncc/p_500CDA9853/Alpine-CDA-9853.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apline CDA-9853&lt;/a&gt; head unit. It still has factory speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem, such that when I connect an iPod to the unit (via a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KCA121B/Alpine-KCA-121B-Auxiliary-Input-Adapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KCA-121B&lt;/a&gt;), on the vast majority of the songs I can't hear the lyrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that this might mean my head unit is trying to output to more speakers than I actually have, but the radio sounds fine. I also thought it might be improperly grounded, (I connected the ground from the head unit to the ground coming from the car, rather than bolting it to the chassis). But again, radio sounds fine so that seems odd. Also, touching the metal back of my iPhone changes the sound (in fact, makes lyrics more clear) so that makes me think it's a grounding issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd see if anyone has seen this before. I'm going to ground it properly today and see if that fixes it, but in the interim any light that could be shed on this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1403" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T11:22:09.730" Title="Can't hear voices through newly installed head unit" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2641" CreationDate="2012-01-12T10:29:09.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just missing lyrics, my thought is that something must be cutting out the mid range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that when you have your iPod connected, the system wants to send mids to other speakers, so check your config.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your comment about how you have ground connected, and what happens when you touch the iPod concerns me. You should always ground every device directly to the chassis, so that would be the key thing to check - it may be that the difference in ground is actually upsetting the output stage on your iPod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T10:29:09.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2641" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:22:09.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something could be wrong with your iPhone connection wire/connectors, perhaps it has bad or missing ground line signal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ground signal is missing the receiver plays the difference between the audio channels - and it often has the voice &quot;ommited&quot;, as the voice is common in both channels and music slightly differs due to 3D positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your connector for traces of dirt/oxygenation. Check your wire for defects and broken lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Sorry for my English, I don't know the right words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T11:22:09.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:30:59.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check you power lines voltage at range of revs, it could be that your voltage stabilizer is malfunctioning and giving out higher voltage than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had similar case with my Skoda, the lights (cockpit, headlights and everything else) would glow the brighter the more revs motor did. It was noticeable to the eye at night. Lightbulbs are sensitive to higher voltage and will burn out early. In my case replacing the voltage regulator solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2023-12-29T14:24:04.020" LastActivityDate="2023-12-29T14:24:04.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2649" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:34:51.510" Score="4" ViewCount="80816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Skoda Octavia. Recently I've noticed that when it's cold, the gearbox is very recalcitrant, particularly in the lower gears. The feeling is of &quot;stodginess&quot; with a slight audible squeak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the gearbox oil needs refreshing? Is this easy to do at home? In the Hayne's manual, it suggest that to do this you need to jack the car up at both the front and the back, so that it is completely level. I'd have to get extra tools to do that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else that could cause this (worn linkages/bushes?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1405" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T17:12:38.733" Title="Stiff gearchange especially when cold" Tags="|shifting|gear-oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2648" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:48:45.240" Score="2" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a vehicle 'born' when it is first registered?  And to expand on this, at what point in the process of modifying a vehicle would it have to be legally classified as a 'new' vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1406" LastEditorUserId="1406" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T13:34:04.797" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:16:03.913" Title="How is a vehicle's age legally defined?" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2012-01-12T13:14:21.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The following is written from the perspective of standard practice in the USA:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vehicle's actual age is defined by its date of manufacture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sales-based definition of &quot;new&quot; vs. &quot;not new&quot; is something of a fiction.  The dealer can take delivery of a car from the factory, hang onto it for quite some time and still sell it as new if they can find a buyer at that late date.  This dealer-defined &quot;new&quot; is usually of primary importance to the customer since that's when the dealer-supported warranty starts.  In the state where I live, this also kicks off the count-down to your first safety inspection: new cars aren't required to get an inspection for two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not immediately clear if it would be illegal for a dealer to hold onto (for example) a 2008 vehicle, keep it pristine in their showroom and still sell it as &quot;new&quot; in 2012.  However, I have to think that there would be an immediate civil case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, where I live, there is no link between modification of the vehicle and its &quot;new&quot; status.  The dealer warranty support, however, will take some hits based on the modifications selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T13:14:21.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2012-01-12T13:45:29.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, there are two dates that apply, depending on the circumstances - &quot;Date of Manufacture&quot; and &quot;Date of First Registration&quot;. This can lead to some confusion with some of the more technical rules, where one requirement might apply to cars built after a certain date, while another might apply to those first registered after a date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Bob says, vehicles can sometimes spend some time sitting on a forecourt or in a storage lot and still be sold as 'new' - i.e. unused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to modification, we have a points system, whereby certain major components (engine, transmission, bodyshell etc) each count for a certain number of points. If your car has more than 8 points, it is still legally the same car. If you modify it so much that less that 8 points remain original, it has to be re-registered as a special and has to go through a rigourous safety inspection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit in response to the OP's comment below]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, these rules applies to anything, but I might be wrong. I believe like-for-like replacements are fine for most parts, although not for the bodyshell (and possibly the engine). &#xA;Some parts are even more complicated however, for example in the case of engine swaps, the car has to meet the emission standards based on either the date of first registration, or the manufacture date of the replacement engine, whichever is the earlier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is information on the Direct.gov.uk website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/BuyingAndSellingAVehicle/RegisteringAVehicle/Registeringakitcarrebuildorradicallyalteredvehicle/DG_191068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Direct.gov - registering a radically altered vehicle&lt;/a&gt;), and on the VOSA site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/publications/manualsandguides/vehicletestingmanualsandguides.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VOSA MOT guide&lt;/a&gt;). There is also an MOT guide on the independant UKMOT.com website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukmot.com/mot_check.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UKMOT&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T16:16:03.913" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:16:03.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2645" CreationDate="2012-01-12T18:17:46.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first try would be changing the oil. Fresh fluid is never a bad thing :) and it's fairly inexpensive (parts and labor). I've change mine last summer and it improve the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the way to do it, refer to your manual since it's more vehicle specific. In my case, it was just a case of removing the oil pan drain plug, wait, put back drain plug and fill with fresh oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T18:17:46.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-01-12T18:19:55.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, what you need to do is check for the worn rotor warning signs after you change your brake pads.  When you do a brake pad change, you can check the rotor for any visible damage then.  If you want to know what constitutes a warn rotor, then you should read this article...  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cquence.net/blog/changing_brake_rotors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cquence.net/blog/changing_brake_rotors/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1407" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T18:19:55.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4423" CreationDate="2012-01-12T22:22:49.257" Score="4" ViewCount="171351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Honda Accord and I thought I had a leak in my power steering because of the whining noise and low fluid. I filled it back up but it kept falling out. I checked where my car is parked and couldn't find any evidence of a leek. I took it to 2 mechanics and they also couldn't seem to find the leak and just filled it up. Of course the very next day the fluid is gone again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just the other day I opened the hood while the car was running and noticed the fluid is coming out from the top of the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T15:54:48.297" Title="Power steering seems to be coming out of its reservoir from the top. Whats wrong?" Tags="|honda|accord|power-steering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2012-01-12T23:11:07.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reservoir could be cracked, or cap leaking. Not sure how to check this, but if you know anyone else with a similar vehicle you can compare caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:11:07.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-01-12T23:14:14.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that some vehicle do not have their rotors turned at all. At BMW, a brake change meant new pads, new sensor, and a rotor check. The outcome of the rotors thickness meant either keep or replace, but never turn. There are other manufactures out there that have similar rotors/pad systems, so be aware of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:51:32.860" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:51:32.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2012-01-13T01:26:06.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about Accords, but my wife has a BMW 330i and it has the same feature.  It's leaking from a vent hole in the reservoir and apparently that's &quot;works as designed&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW community has accepted that the proper solution is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1pzRJMwRx0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sock Mod&lt;/a&gt;.  Could be same vent design on honda, but not sure since don't own one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T01:26:06.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2645" CreationDate="2012-01-13T04:07:34.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have this with my 89 Acura Integra.  It was exactly the same as you described and it definitely got stiffer in the cold weather.  One day I decided to get the transmission out, open it up and figure out what's causing it.  I followed all steps of disconnecting everything from the transmission before removing it and that included the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the shifter was disconnected, I tugged on the lever that ran under the car from the shifter and into the gear box and found that its movement was as smooth as butter.  Turned out that the stiff shifting was caused entirely in the pivot point between the shifter and the lever.  I greased up that joint, bolted everything up and it started shifting as if it was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely check oil.  Since transmission is a completely closed system, if everything is ok, the oil should look almost new (at least it did in my car after 40k miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T04:07:34.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-13T10:07:12.840" Score="3" ViewCount="16170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried all kinds of commercial sub-zero windshield liquids but am so far satisfied with none, because of the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They all seem to freeze below about -5C. Or at least become thick enough to jam the system. I've had the issue investigated by the dealer's mechanics, but they couldn't find anything wrong and suggested it was a low quality liquid (they claimed to have seen some on the market). I've tried different brands since, but for the last 2 winters there has been no windshield washing below -5C (approximately).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They all stink. Not so much a problem for me, but my wife minds, so that's a good enough reason for me. Ideally the liquid should be odorless, but something faint and/or pleasant would be acceptable too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &amp;amp; in what proportions do I mix up to get a good windshield washing liquid? I'd like to avoid methanol and other highly toxic chemicals if possible. (Also, what keywords can I use to find information about this on Google?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1128" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T04:32:03.617" Title="How do I mix up my own windshield washing liquid for low temperatures?" Tags="|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2012-01-13T13:12:44.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: you almost certainly bought a bad bottle of fluid with a low methanol content.  Worse, it might have been fluid with some sort of glycol rather than methanol (possibly causing it to gell up on the windshield or at the nozzles).  -5C isn't terribly cold (unless you're in an open high wind environment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are people that like to jabber about things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://madscientistmatt.blogspot.com/2006/02/homemade-windshield-washer-fluid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;making their own windshield wiper fluid&lt;/a&gt;.  I would read the comments on that thread with a skeptical eye.  However, all of those words do illustrate that there are some critical points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You really have to have methanol in the windshield wiper fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not cost effective at all to make your own fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the recommendations that makes a bit of sense is to add additional methonal to the reservoir to top off the concentration already in the fluid.  That should keep the freezing point low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I'd tend to go with the bad fluid theory.  It gets colder than -5C here in the winter regularly (not this crazy winter, admittedly) and I've definitely been disappointed in some fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T13:12:44.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1353" CreationDate="2012-01-13T21:04:18.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another common problem in this generation of Hondas is a faulty main relay. I had a 90 civic that had a very similar problem. The problem is that this little circuit board's solder points have started cracking and are not making proper connection. For several years when this had happened to mine, I would firmly tap on the relay while trying to start it and it would kick right in. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; has detailed information with pictures on how to locate your main relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1412" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T21:04:18.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-14T15:10:07.493" Score="10" ViewCount="3060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can never quite get the streak free shine on my windshield from using Windex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another product that works better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastEditorUserId="1406" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T16:30:16.340" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T19:54:09.437" Title="How can I achieve a streak free windshield?" Tags="|cleaning|windshield|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-14T18:32:28.513" Score="2" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used my HP Tuners as a scan tool on my 96 LT1 in an Impala SS. The &quot;Advance&quot; as read by the tool sits at -12 deg at idle, then goes down to -35 deg if I rev it (no load) to about 2k RPM. I'm interpreting the negative numbers as meaning there is a lot of spark retard. Why is it pulling so much spark? Shouldn't there be more advance with more RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the short term fuel trims show very different #s for bank 1 and bank 2. Bank 2 shows a higher numerical % trim. Does this indicate the PCM is fueling bank 2 more, possibly because I have failing injector(s) on that side? Which is bank 2, passenger or driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or could I have fouled O2s on one side (dual exhaust, pre and post cat O2 equipped) which is telling the pcm that the bank is running too rich when in fact it is fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T05:56:55.733" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T01:49:52.843" Title="Normal spark advance for 96 LT1 engine? STFT also varies bank 1 vs bank 2. What does it mean?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|lt1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2012-01-14T18:40:17.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have water in the headlight housing, or getting into the connectors, this will cause the bulbs to fail prematurely.  Also, if the headlights are not mounted securely the bulbs may be subject to more vibration than normal, shortening their life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T18:40:17.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2636" CreationDate="2012-01-14T18:44:37.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not just connect both the starter solenoid and the spark control wire to the single output of a standard automotive relay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T18:44:37.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2012-01-14T20:19:40.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean with soap and water, rinse clear, then dry with a microfiber cloth.  The key is the microfiber cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1415" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T20:19:40.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2012-01-15T11:40:04.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wash as normal with the rest of the vehicle, then rinse with a weak vinegar/water solution (soft water preferably). Then dry with chamois leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1406" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T11:40:04.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-15T12:07:07.157" Score="6" ViewCount="4054" Body="&lt;p&gt;They say when an air filter is dirty, you should replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm just not sure how &quot;dirty&quot; is dirty? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some sort of easy test to determine whether I need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1418" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T21:31:15.100" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:39:13.987" Title="How do I know if my air filter needs replacing?" Tags="|maintenance|air-filter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2012-01-15T14:36:04.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can remove it and visually check, you'll know if its dirty or not ;). I change mine couple time a year, the price of filters are high and it's cheap replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T14:36:04.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T04:28:52.613" Score="4" ViewCount="12488" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago my trailblazer developed this new features. When you get into the car and start driving, everything feels completely fine. Then after about 5 minutes you start noticing slight vibration (very slight, just feels like something isn't quite right). After about a 20 minute drive, the vibration is very noticeable. By that time, it almost sounds like low engine rumble, but its pitch and volume vary directly with car's speed, not engine speed. When it gets to that level, it is also easily felt in the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three weeks ago, I jacked the car up and noticed that there was a ton of grease spewed around passenger side CV boot. So I went through the motion, which took a while for various reasons, of replacing passenger CV shaft and while in there, also rebuilt 4WD disconnect with fresh bearings and seals. Yesterday I put the car back on the road and the vibration is still in there unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tugged on both wheels to check wheel hubs and at first glace the wheel bearings appear fine. I've had bad wheel bearings on this car before, left one is 5 years old. right one is 1 year old. Whenever wheel bearings were bad a) vibration would be constant through out the drive (i.e. you can feel it the second you start driving) and b) they would change in sound when turning left or right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This current vibration is...&#xA;1) unaffected by turning left/right or going straight&#xA;2) does not change in sound if 4wd is engaged or disengaged&#xA;3) unaffected by putting the car in neutral and revving the engine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked the front differential fluid level (obviously destroying the fill plug in the process) and topped off the oil level. It was a little low, but no where near empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what would be causing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Drove the car to work today. I have to take back (1) from above. If I turn the steering wheel right, vibration becomes stronger and if I turn left it gets weaker, which is actually consistent with driver's side wheel bearing being bad. The difference is that with my previous bad bearings, I only had to apply slight pressure to the steering wheel to hear sound difference, but this time, I have to push the steering wheel a bit further out (can still hear difference in a single lane going straight). Also the vibration this time seems to be distinctly lower pitch than the ones I've heard in the past with wheel bearings, but maybe they come in different shapes and sounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastEditorUserId="509" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T03:01:27.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:28:21.693" Title="02 Trailblazer with front end vibration which seems to increase over time" Tags="|chevrolet|drivetrain|vibration|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T05:26:41.650" Score="2" ViewCount="8872" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the past few weeks whenever I crank my car there is a squeaking noise which may continue for about 30-60 sec or even longer (This is intermittent sometimes it doesn't really happen). The engine also misses once I try to accelerate suddenly from a total stop position. I feel the as if there is not enough power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the Air Filters and Engine Oil and found them in perfect Condition. I don't have much experience in such problems. Please Advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the engine missing be due to Spark Plugs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&#xA;Arjun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1420" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T15:58:02.230" Title="Squeaking Noise when Cold Start. Suspect something wrong with belts, Also engine missing when sudden acceleration desired from Total Stop" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2012-01-16T10:46:13.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually change mine as part of any service, so generally twice a year. Obviously this will depend on how much you use the car and what sort of environment you're in - if you drive it a lot in dusty conditions you may well need to do it more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Gabriel says, its a cheap thing to replace, and a clogged filter will adversely affect your power and economy, so if in doubt, change it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T10:46:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2668" CreationDate="2012-01-16T18:27:46.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a AWD Trailblazer, and low diff oil can cause uneven gear wear (mine is perennially low because I have a leaking diff seal which the dealer can't get out).  As the oil heats up, the vibration can become more prominent because the thick oil is no longer damping the vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check that your wheels are balanced.  You might have chucked a wheel weight or worn a tire unevenly.  But, the noise you describe (through the steering wheel) definitely sounds to me like a worn front diff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:27:46.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2669" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:33:56.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A miss when under load could be anywhere in the ignition system.  Start with new plugs and wires (as these are cheap, and you may be able to change them yourself), and if this does not resolve the issue, move on to the coil packs or distributor and coil (depending on how your car is equipped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coil packs are expensive, so there is a way to isolate a specific coil pack if you can hear the miss at idle.  Simply pull one plug wire at a time and run the engine.  The engine will run rough, but if the miss is still present, you know that the cylinder for which you pulled the coil pack is not faulty.  When you pull a plug wire and the miss is gone (the engine does not run much worse), then you have found the faulty coil pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarity&lt;/strong&gt; If you can hear the miss at idle, it's missing with all plug wires connected. Pulling a good plug wire should cause a 2nd miss (and rougher running). Pulling the bad wire should cause no change (still missing just like with 1 wire connected). The miss will certainly not &quot;go away&quot; with a spark plug wire disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="1425" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T20:47:34.653" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:47:34.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2606" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:44:56.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have the accessory belt off the vehicle, you can spin each accessory by hand and see if they feel 'normal' or one has some roughness when it spins that indicates a bad bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, with the engine running &lt;em&gt;carefully&lt;/em&gt; place a long, flat head screwdriver on a each accessory (avoiding any moving parts).  Press the handle end of the screwdriver against your ear.  The screwdriver will act like a stethoscope, allowing you to pinpoint the source of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:44:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1911" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:51:01.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refer to this page for what the PCM is looking for in a full OBDII drive cycle: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:51:01.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:56:02.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;26 - Battery Group size (determines the dimensions of the battery: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jegs.com/Sizecharts/bcigroup.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jegs.com/Sizecharts/bcigroup.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R - You are correct, this means the terminals are reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5N - Not sure what this part means!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="25143" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T08:20:52.790" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T08:20:52.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2423" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:59:32.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket tuners/PCM flashers (such as HP Tuners) will allow you to do this.  However, HP Tuners costs about $600, so your best bet would be to find a friend or shop who already has one, unless you see yourself using such a tool often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, worn motor mounts will put more stress on other mounts in the driveline (transmission, rear diff, etc.) so it might be smarter to just change the mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:59:32.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1798" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:12:24.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil return passages are plugged, then at high rpm or after sustained operation you may be building up lots of oil in the head which is then finding it's way out into the airbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you did have some parts come apart inside the top end, maybe some of the baffle ended up in the return passages and is preventing sufficient oil drainback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T21:12:24.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T23:31:02.387" Score="1" ViewCount="4440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unable to locate the cord to plug in the block heater on my 2007 Ford Focus SES. I have not had trouble finding it on other vehicles in the past, but I have searched all over under the hood and cannot locate the plug. It's not even in the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 30 below outside and I am scared to try and start it without plugging it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1422" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T23:42:07.730" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T23:42:01.427" Title="Block Heater Plug Location 2007 Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|focus|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2012-01-17T09:31:23.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there not a captive nut already behind the hole? That is certainly the case on a lot of older cars that were not originally fitted with rear seatbelts, so may well be the same for child restraint anchors on newer vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T09:31:23.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2012-01-17T13:11:37.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean with standard glass cleaner, then dry with newspaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T13:11:37.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2012-01-17T16:15:47.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live up in the north, and we see temps much colder than -2C. I've found that the washer fluid the dealers use is subpar for nearly everything below freezing. It might spray sometimes, but it will ice up on the window, especially when it's far below 0C. I suspect they water it down or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around for a solution and have settled on purchasing some washer additive next time I decide to make an order of car products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll probably get some of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/w892332836.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wurth additive&lt;/a&gt; when I do purchase some. I suspect there are other additives, but if you're having issues with the lines being frozen already, you may need to get your vehicle into a warmer garage to thaw and run some fluid through the system until you have enough of the anti freeze blend mixed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of some more expensive brands of washer fluid that are good to much lower temperatures. But they seem to be quite a bit more expensive than the additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a third type of de-icer I've seen that you simply spray on your windows when you park &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1424" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T16:15:47.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2678" CreationDate="2012-01-17T16:31:25.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most newer vehicles don't come with block heaters installed, so unless you've had one installed it's fairly likely that there is no block heater if you can't find a cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could examine the oil pan for a missing cord. If you purchased the car used the previous owner may have had one installed and broke or lost the cord. I had a 2001 Saturn sedan a while back that the block heater cord had been cut off by something the previous owner had hit, I just had to buy a replacement cord and the broken one simply unplugged from the heater on the bottom of the oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if your car is having a hard time turning over you could try switching weights of oil in the winter. I used to run 10W30 in the summer months and in the fall switch to 5W30. Or you could use a synthetic blend or full synthetic motor oil. If you don't know much about lubricants I would suggest looking into them before you do this, just to make sure it won't cause any engine harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently browsing some forums that I read and someone mentioned something about a magnetic block heater. Apparently JC Whitney sells &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jcwhitney.com/magnet-mount-engine-block-heater/p2000836.jcwx?filterid=u0j1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; model and you can just attach it to your oil pan for heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1424" LastEditorUserId="1424" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T17:15:29.023" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T17:15:29.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2012-01-17T17:18:15.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob's answer is a good suggestion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with my 2005 Touareg. When it would get damp out I would get odd smells coming from the vents. I ended up replacing the filter and using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-klima-cleaner-air-freshener.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A/C Coil Cleaning solution&lt;/a&gt; on the vents, and it took away the smell. It might be worth a try if you can't get rid of the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a foam. You shove the tube down the center vent and spray until the can is essentially empty. There are also some other air cleaner products on there called Odor bombs. Maybe one of those would work too for your situation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1424" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T17:18:15.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2012-01-17T17:28:40.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;-5C is not cold at all. It's -5F here today (-20C) and about this time last year was -27F (-33C). The commercial fluid with antifreeze has been fine. I'd expect regular washer fluid to be fine down to -2C or -3C, as it's not pure water and the detergents should lower the freeze point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you absolutely sure you bottles you've been buying contain &quot;Antifreeze&quot;? Have you drained your reservoir before adding the new fluid? If it's mostly summer washer fluid and you add the winter fluid, it will behave mostly like summer fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's neither of those, perhaps it's evaporation. Since the antifreeze used is an methanol, the boiling point is fairly low (65C, but we've all seen denatured alcohol evaporate off the counter top at room temp...). If the weather or your garage regularly get warm, I suppose it might be possible that the alcohol is evaporating out of the washer fluid. Make sure you have a tight fitting cap on your washer fluid reservoir. But I suspect it's either not really &quot;washer fluid with antifreeze&quot; or you aren't draining the reservoir first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T17:28:40.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T10:12:16.003" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I window-shopped for a car air compressor and there's a variety of them with different performance levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low performance compressors (like 30 liters per minute) have a cigarette lighter connector, but high performance compressors (like 160 liters per minute) seem to draw something like 50 amperes current and only have clamps for connecting to the battery terminals. The latter implies opening the hood which is not very convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other ways are there to power a short-term load like an air compressor that drains current about 50 amperes off the car electrical circuit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:38:32.627" Title="How to run a 50 amps short term load off the car electrical circuit?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2685" CreationDate="2012-01-18T11:13:45.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To run a current of that size requires fairly hefty cabling, hence why they are provided with battery clamps. You could run heftier cables into the cabin, but you would have to make sure it was done properly - using cables capable of taking the load, properly insulated and protected where they pass through the bulkhead, and using a suitable fuse (fitted as close to the battery as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that 50 amps is a very large current for an automotive circuit - 600W, or nearly 6 times the power of a normal pair of headlamps, and around 2/3 of the total rated output of most alternators...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you intending to use it for? If it is just for topping up tyres, the lower rated compressor will be all you would need - The only advantage of a higher rated one in that situation is that it'll do the job a bit quicker. Obviously if you're intending to run a spray gun or something off it, or reinflate tyres from flat, that becomes a bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T11:13:45.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2685" CreationDate="2012-01-18T13:38:32.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you investigate the power connections used by the off-roaders for the winch systems.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=722b5d47868d13069de6d73611b1fe9c&amp;amp;t=418155&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;As you can see&lt;/a&gt; (third post into the cited thread), common winches draw much more power than you are looking for.  Those guys make it clear that you can directly connect the winch to the battery.  The battery is then charged by the alternator while also expecting the engine to be running to avoid draining it flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:38:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2012-01-18T15:38:01.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to change mine at the factory recommended change interval (severe service, since my car sees lots of dirt roads).  I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; that was 15k miles.  It was always pretty dirty looking when removed, but no differences in performance or MPG noted due to replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upsides to more frequent changes:&#xA;- Cleaner air &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; mean more MPG and performance&#xA;- Do it automatically with every oil change and you'll never have to give it any thought&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides:&#xA;- Wallet is lighter (although, that weight reduction may also help performance ;-) )&#xA;- Chance of breaking fragile clips that hold the air filter box together (some cars)&#xA;- Can be a royal pain to get to (especially on some newer cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:38:01.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T16:56:44.507" Score="1" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key wont turn in ignition switch, I can't change the gear (the button is locked sort of). 2000 Plymouth Neon Automatic. Is there a temporary fix to it? Never had this problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastEditorUserId="865" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T12:10:36.603" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T18:25:46.553" Title="key wont turn, can't change gear on automatic Plymouth Neon 2000" Tags="|starting|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2012-01-18T19:38:06.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you turn the steering wheel? It can be in a lock position. If so, then turn slightly the steering wheel and retry your key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T19:38:06.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2012-01-19T01:49:19.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We ended up having to take it into a vehicle safety place where they installed the bolts for us. Not sure exactly what they did but I think they got in behind somehow and installed a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:49:19.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4732" CreationDate="2012-01-19T11:00:11.517" Score="2" ViewCount="4558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my golf 5, earlier someone has tried to steal gas from my tank, but failed this, when I try to open my fueltank cap from the inside (button on the driver door) i can hear the familiar sound for opening the cap, but nothing happens, i heard about there can be a spring or something that has falled out of position, my question is how do I get it in place again ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the latch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngoYs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1432" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T14:48:40.247" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T14:26:21.083" Title="Volkswagen Golf 2005 - Fueltank cap does not open" Tags="|fuel-tank|golf|old-cars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2693" CreationDate="2012-01-19T11:45:43.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you press the release button, can someone else open the flap? That will confirm that it is the spring and not the release mechanism or hinge. (they may need to use a small screwdriver or similar to get leverage, but usually you can press in on the hinge side of the flap enough to get a finger around the other end)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the spring on these types of flaps is usually wrapped around the hinge, so you should be able to see it once you've got the flap open...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T11:45:43.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3656" CreationDate="2012-01-19T11:55:15.423" Score="5" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying a new stereo for my 1997 Toyota Levin and I was wondering if anyone knew how to take the front panel off so as to get to the old stereo?. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T16:52:09.333" Title="Removing front panel to install new stereo? (Toyota Levin 97)" Tags="|toyota|audio|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2012-01-19T18:25:46.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This could be cold related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to leave the car at work because I could not turn the key. The next day tried in the morning, but to no avail. Then came in lunch break, made another effort and after a little this and that, the key finally turned. I am thinking this could be cold related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature has been very cold here (10F-1F).  All drinks in the including cokes had frozen and one of them had bursted with the Can ripped. In the noon, while it was still cold, it was a little bit better and I think that made the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T18:25:46.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2012-01-20T18:08:04.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to give more information about the application to attract answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, define &quot;dissipate&quot;: do you mean to scrub off enough thermal energy to bring temps to within 2 degrees of ambient? 20? 200?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the goal to use this intermittently or for constant use? Big difference in BTU's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is your goal to bring the shaft to 0 rpm or simply to apply a load of up to 400kW to a shaft powered at a much higher level?  Do you have a time constraint for reaching desired shaft speed? How much hysteresis is allowable? etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1438" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T18:08:04.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:02:20.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old sensor got broken during a accident with a deer. I've replaced the sensor and it's reading -40 deg. Is there a reset on this unit? The sensor worked about a year after the wreck until the plastic end finally broke off. What's the secret to getting it to read at all?? Is it in the computer chip or do I have a wire that is shorted out?? Any help would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1439" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T18:28:54.803" Title="ambient air temp. sensor reading -40 on 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2716" CreationDate="2012-01-21T19:01:35.877" Score="-2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this idea:&#xA;attaching electric motor to clutch and then to a generator then computing when for example we 1kw give the motor how much generator will take back?&#xA;now we have performance of generator and motor so we can compute clutch performance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:19:48.580" Title="how to compute performance of clutch" Tags="|clutch|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-11-27T23:08:36.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2701" CreationDate="2012-01-21T20:17:30.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You realise that a clutch, when engaged, will transmit 100% of the power it receives (barring minor friction losses) and when disengaged will transmit 0% (again, barring some minor friction drag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So performance does not seem like something you will measure here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could measure slippage at a particular setting, but again this won't be useful in most cases, as that level will change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T20:17:30.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-21T23:40:41.423" Score="5" ViewCount="4224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the front strut shocks on my 2006 Hyundai Sonata and I'm not sure if I'll need a spring compresser to do this. I have searched the internet for an answer to this question and I haven't had any luck. Anyone have any experience performing this repair on this particular vehicle. I know that sometimes you need the compresser and sometimes you don't.&#xA;Thanks.&#xA;Larry  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1443" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T07:21:41.067" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T03:15:47.527" Title="Replacing front struts on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata" Tags="|suspension|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2668" CreationDate="2012-01-22T00:49:11.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was driver-side wheel bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had 4 other bad wheel bearings (2 in this car, 1 in wife's BMW 330i and 1 in my old Integra) and they've always sounded the same.  Smooth, mid- to high-pitch vibration which almost disappears when you turn the wheel one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What confused me was this noise was much rougher (like I said in original question, almost low engine rumble) and at first it happened at any steering wheel angle.  Past few days I did notice change in pitch/volume when moving the steering wheel but it wasn't like that at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One clue that told it it was probably a wheel bearing was after I came home few days ago, I felt the rims and driver side was significantly warmer than passenger side, which I would guess caused by extra friction in the bad hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the car is back on the road and feels as smooth as butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T00:49:11.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2704" CreationDate="2012-01-22T03:03:52.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes a Spring Compressor Tool is required to change that strut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the strut, based on this design you will have to use the spring compressor for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1WE3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T03:21:25.827" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T03:21:25.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2700" CreationDate="2012-01-22T18:28:54.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wire going to the sensor is not connected (most likely) or is grounded out somewhere. It's also possible that the switch is bad, but you said you have replaced it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-40 is the lower limit, it will read -40 when it's unplugged or grounded depending on how it's set up, most are set up for the former. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T18:28:54.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2660" CreationDate="2012-01-22T18:49:33.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timing is advanced. -12 means 12 degrees before TDC (Top Dead Center) and likewise -35 means the timing is advanced 35 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry much about the short term trim, unless you are having driveability problems. If you post the actually numbers including the long term trim I may be able to give you more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T18:49:33.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1797" CreationDate="2012-01-22T19:01:04.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am showing that vehicle to already &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_SilverStar-ULTRA-TWIN-Halogen-Headlight-Sylvania_5080137-P_1258_R%7CGRPLAMPAMS_____&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;take these halogen bulbs&lt;/a&gt;. If you have sealed beams and you want to upgrade the lights you can try for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/default/upgrade-kits-and-accessories/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/vision-plus-conversion-headlamp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hella Lights&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T19:01:04.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2717" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:36:48.077" Score="3" ViewCount="14875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard a few different ways to fix a pin hole leak in a radiator. I have heard put a small amount of black pepper in the radiator, or use jb weld to patch the hole, and not to use the stop leak antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1447" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T13:37:50.460" Title="Is there a reliable way to repair a pin hole leak in a radiator" Tags="|radiator|leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2715" CreationDate="2012-01-23T16:18:31.183" Score="14" ViewCount="152476" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the service life of a timing chain and how does having a chain drive cam benefit from a belt drive cam and vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T13:18:15.213" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:31:06.457" Title="Timing Chain vs. Timing Belt" Tags="|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:28:26.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think we covered this before, but I can't find it...  Timing chains have much greater service lives at the expense of slightly more noise and friction, as well as a lot more damage if they break (but odds of breakage are much less than a belt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:28:26.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:30:58.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may not be 100% accurate but I think belts have expected lift time of 60k-100k and at 100k they should definitely be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains are claimed by a lot of manufacturers to have lifetime duration and shouldn't need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have been known to break but as Brian mentioned, that's very rare.  I've also heard of a more common failure mode with chains where over time the metal stretches which alters the timing, so although everything runs, your car becomes de-tuned and to fix it, requires a chain replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T19:30:58.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:50:41.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I didn't really care if I might hurt the car, I might be willing to try JB Weld...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T19:50:41.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:59:02.753" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts are quieter but are often less obviously worn before they break (chains stretch and loosen, belts tend to stay tight without damaged belt teeth up until the moment they snap). Timing belts are also less complicated (chains require an oil bath). Chains are generally stronger, so vehicles with timing chains often drive more than just the cam with the timing chain. Due to stretch, when you change a chain you MUST replace all the timing gears, as the teeth will wear to match the chain stretch. While not necessary on a belt driven system, a failed gear will cause a belt failure and, depending on your engine, could be very bad, so it's generally recommended to replace all idlers and gears in a belt system, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of damage caused by a belt breaking vs a chain breaking entirely depends on the type of engine. Engines with really high compression ratios (performance cars that require high-octane fuel, diesels, etc) tend to have the valves and piston heads move such that they could come into contact if the cam stops opening and closing the valves. When a piston head smashes into a valve, you ruin the head, valve, and potentially other cylinders if pieces of shattered valve travel through the air intake system to the other cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good section on the TDI Club's FAQ about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html&quot;&gt;timing belts&lt;/a&gt;, as that's what Volkswagon uses on all their turbo diesels. A belt breaking on a TDI is catastrophic. As far as I know, most cars use chains and compression ratios low enough that there's no risk of piston heads smashing into an open valve should the chain break. You can't retrofit a belt system to use a chain, you wouldn't want to do the reverse, but I have seen people replace belts and chains with direct gear drives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastEditorUserId="1425" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T20:04:11.287" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:04:11.287" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2701" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:19:48.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Huh? Baring that, as Rory stated, this really doesn't make sense, what do you intend to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be a separate test unit outside of the vehicle, or would the electric motor be providing power along with the vehicles gas/diesel engine? Is the transmission still connected to the clutch, driving the wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's outside the car (motor drives one clutch plate, other clutch plate drives generator) you still need to account for losses in the motor itself and in the generator. Remember, these are real devices, not theoretical ideal devices, so they will both produce heat lowering your efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, an electric motor drawing 1kW and connected directly to a generator will not produce 1kW of usable power. And the amount of losses will not be constant. At 1kW you might lose, say, 5% due to heat, whereas at 2kW you might lose 15%. You would need to characterize the system before it would even do anything meaningful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct way to test a clutch's performance synthetically would be to use a pulley system and a system of counter weights to apply a frictional torque load to the clutch plate normally connected to the transmission. With a tachometer on both clutch plates, you could find the load that causes the clutch plates to start slipping (engine plate spinning faster than transmission plate). From there I suppose you could calculate the power lost under that particular load, but knowing the load where slipping begins is probably more useful than knowing the power lost. An engaged clutch should never slip under normal operating conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:19:48.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:44:17.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to drain the coolant, most radiators can be brazed or welded to fix pinholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:44:17.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2669" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:46:44.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be too concerned about the belt squeal. Generally the serpentine belt is not toothed and cold components are going to have more friction that warm components. It could be an early sign that an alternator, ac compressor, etc is going to go, but it's probably just a sign that it's cold. Cold weather can also cause condensation on the belts which can facilitate some initial slippage. When the squeal is more consistent or occurs with the engine running other than shortly after starting, it's time to have the belts looked at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the car is under warranty, the ignition system problem is what I'd be looking at/spending money on, not some minor belt squeal. Though if you take the car in for something else (oil change, the ignition problem) you could ask have the belts/pulleys checked for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:46:44.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-23T21:36:14.700" Score="2" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai XG350 L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today while driving to work on the Interstate, my check engine light clicked on and suddenly my gas pedal seemed to just stop working. I managed to coast off an exit and stop near a service station. The mechanic hooked it up and it showed a problem with the Throttle Position Sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, immediately after turning off and restarting the car, it starts up and seems to just run fine. I've had numerous other strange electrical-type problems with this car, and I worry that the TPS failure is just the latest victim (or symptom, rather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other reasons the TPS might report a problem during a diagnostic? If it IS a bad TPS, why would it just stop working althogether, and then start working again once I restart the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T06:54:41.767" Title="Throttle Position Sensor: Complete failure, then starts working again?" Tags="|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-23T23:33:09.480" Score="3" ViewCount="2276" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light came on and the diagnostic code says it is a problem with the catalytic converters so I'm getting ready to schedule an appointment with a mechanic to take care of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer (who did the diagnostic) claims that both of them are probably bad and they run about $1K each. Maybe he was including labor, but it sure didn't sound like it from the way he said it. In any event, I'm gonna shop around if it is going to be that expensive. Before I do, however, I did some of my own research on parts retailer web site to make sure I don't get ripped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountcatalyticconverters.com/shop/?N=0&amp;amp;VN=4294967115%204294962573%204294962543%204294967045%204294967110&amp;amp;Nr=AND%28part%3aCatalytic%20Converter%29&amp;amp;events=partfinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;searched on my make/model&lt;/a&gt; it came up with a variety of options, but they seemed to fall into two price ranges ~$40 and ~$400. I'm not enough of a car guy to know the difference, but that seems like a massive price swing for the same kind of part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am really confused. Can someone who understands exhaust systems explain what the difference in a $40 and $400 catalytic converter is in terms that a non-mechanic would understand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T19:03:19.390" Title="Why does the price of Catalytic Converters vary so much?" Tags="|exhaust|parts|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-24T04:32:10.523" Score="2" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my brake pads and did wheel alignment at the official workshop of my car manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was driving just fine but suddenly as I was driving it at one fine point the steering became a little harder and now it takes a little more effort to steer. I thought it was a tyre puncture but the tyres were ok. Also the car decelerates quicker than usual, as I take the foot off the accelerator. My tyres seem to be fine - pressure's good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap here are the symptoms:&#xA;1. Steering is harder. EPS works but is harder.&#xA;2. Car decelerates quicker than usual. At high speeds you can feel a small deceleration as you take the foot off the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these might be the reasons:&#xA;1.Something wrong with my steering system or&#xA;2.My brakes are not releasing fully or&#xA;3.Something wrong with the fuel filter/ air filter (but does it affect the steering?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1278" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T10:38:40.703" Title="Car decelerating quickly" Tags="|brakes|maintenance|tires|braking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2724" CreationDate="2012-01-24T05:25:50.933" Score="4" ViewCount="4539" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've given and received boosts before I've always been following instructions by rote and never really understood what's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure I've been told is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach red clamp to the positive terminal on the dead battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the other red clamp to the positive terminal on the good battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach black clamp to the negative terminal on the live battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the other black clamp to the engine or chassis on the car with the dead battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start good car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hopefully start dead car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat confused by step 4. since it's often described as clipping the last black clamp to &quot;ground&quot;. But the tires should be insulating the car so it's not really grounded is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's actually happening when you start the dead car? Is it drawing power from the good battery to start the car? I don't understand how that happens since I don't see how there's a complete circuit between the two cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1453" LastEditorUserId="1453" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T16:12:14.167" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T16:12:14.167" Title="What's happening when you give someone a boost?" Tags="|battery|safety|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2726" CreationDate="2012-01-24T05:43:56.113" Score="16" ViewCount="374475" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1410/jump-starting-a-dead-battery-connect-black-wire-to-negative-pole-of-battery-or&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; explains why it's a potential hazard to clip to the negative post on the dead battery when giving a boost. But I've also been told that I could damage the electronics in my own car if I give someone a boost or do it &quot;wrong&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really the case? What are the circumstances that this could end badly for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1453" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T22:14:13.757" Title="Is it possible to harm your car by giving someone a boost?" Tags="|battery|safety|jump-start|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2722" CreationDate="2012-01-24T08:22:08.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bestbatterytips.com/tags/how-to-jump-start-a-car/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a diagram&lt;/a&gt;.  It shows two batteries connected to each other and wires from each battery going to each respective car. What the diagram doesn't show is that those wires, &quot;To Starter&quot; --&gt; &quot;Ground&quot; form a loop as well, and if you picture that, you will see that the path forms a full circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be slightly more precise, the path forms two circles, like digit 8.  The two batteries in this case serve as the common path between the circles, so both batteries end up in the path of both cars, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_circuit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;connected in parallel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stuff would be a little easier to understand if you read up a bit on basic electronics. As for &quot;ground&quot;, they don't mean &quot;earth&quot;, this is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_%28electricity%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electric term&lt;/a&gt; which means common reference point, which is often the body, or the case of the device.  Almost everything has a ground, your car, your TV, your laptop, even tiny little circuit boards generally have a grounding path which runs along at least one edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one of the cars is running, that car has two voltage sources: 1) the battery and 2) the alternator. When the other car is hooked up, those two sources will be combined with the 3rd, negative source (i.e. drain), non-working battery, and the combination of the voltage pressure is what's going to start the second car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This voltage pressure applies to the starter of the second car as much as it applies to the old battery.  Usually this is fine, because batteries are designed not to flow backwards, but in some cases, when batteries goes bad, they drop in internal resistance and in that case, majority of current goes through the old battery instead of the starter causing the car not to start.  In those circumstances it generally helps to disconnect the old battery and trying to jump start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T08:22:08.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2721" CreationDate="2012-01-24T10:04:52.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like something is binding or dragging. If you've recently changed the brakes, that would be my first suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the steering pull to either side? If so, does it always do so, or only under braking, which would suggest one side binding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carefully&lt;/strong&gt; bring the back of your hand to each wheel after a drive - does it feel hot? Is the heat concentrated in the hub or around the brake caliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How old is the vehicle? If it's more than 8-10 years old, have the brake flexi hoses ever been changed? These can begin to perish with time, and swell, causing the brakes to bind on as the fluid can't escape back to the master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you jack the front of the car up (in neutral if it is a front or four wheel drive), can you spin the front wheels freely, or do they feel like they are binding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's jacked up, check the steering - it should spin freely from lock to lock, even without the engine on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T10:04:52.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2012-01-24T10:25:37.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any reason why you would damage the electronics in your car, unless you touched one of your jump leads somewhere you shouldn't and short something delicate or you connect the leads back to front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting them back to front shouldn't damage electronics, as your car should have protection against this sort of thing, but it is the key thing to check - just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example I can think of might be - an aftermarket car stereo may not have surge/voltage protection and it may be connected directly to the battery, not through the ignition switch, so connecting 12v across it the wrong way may damage it. More realistically it may just blow a fuse or a diode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As commented below, this could damage batteries - I was purely talking about electronics. Look out for your batteries :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T16:25:09.583" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T16:25:09.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:07:10.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get transient spikes from the other car while it's trying to start.  Any battery or alternator issues that affect power quality will be transmitted to your car.  The good news is that large 12v batteries make excellent buffers against power issues that might otherwise cause damage.  However, it is still &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to suffer damage to your car from jumping someone elses.  Pretty rare though, doesn't make my list of things I worry about.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T13:07:10.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2722" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:11:13.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DXM's answer hits all the important points in great detail.  To give you a quick answer to your specific questions at the end, though: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what's actually happening when you start the dead car? Is it&#xA;  drawing power from the good batter to start the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the live car is running.  Its alternator is being driven by a functioning engine.  When you go to start the dead car, it is drawing power from that fully energized electrical system rather than from its flat battery (not the battery on the good car).  That generally provides plenty of power to start the dead car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A hard lesson follows that I've learned at least two times in my life:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, however, that while the dead car is now alive, its battery is still flat and extremely suspect.  Even if the battery is fine, it still has to charge for a while.  If you have a battery charger, bring it home and put it on the charger for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, batteries are consumable parts.  They have a finite lifespan and, sometimes, they are letting you know that they plan to leave you stranded again unless they get replaced.  The smart people I know write the installation date of the battery right on the cover in Sharpie.  If it's been five to seven years, there's a good chance that the battery is dying on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sadly, I've never been that smart.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T13:11:13.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:59:22.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the link provided, I assume the ~400$ piece looks like 2 converter based on original equipment(OE) design, or as when the car came out of factory. Those at ~40$ looks more like an aftermarket replacement, with 1 converter and some installation required (welding and exhaust modification) while the OE is bolt-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T16:29:22.037" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T16:29:22.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2722" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:54:24.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your negative terminal connects to the frame of the car. This allows you to run a single wire to some piece of electronics and &quot;ground&quot; the other side to the frame of the vehicle (which runs to the negative terminal of the battery/alternator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By making the last connection to the frame of the car, you complete the circuit just as well as you would have on the battery post (provided it's a rust free, paint free piece of frame). The last connection should cause a spark as you connect it, and by using the frame of the car you ensure that spark is away from the battery (which is full of hydrochloric acid and vents explosive fumes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now you should understand the complete circuit. The actual jump start is dead car's starter motor drawing power from good car's alternator. If your jumper cables aren't a thick guage, you might not be able to push enough current to actually start. In this case, you have to let it sit as good car's alternator charges dead car's battery enough such that dead car's starter can get enough current from dead car's partially charged battery and good car's alternator across crappy jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure a quick jump start, always buy the largest gauge jumper cable they sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T15:54:24.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2739" CreationDate="2012-01-24T21:33:26.460" Score="20" ViewCount="106042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does a turbocharged car only produce significant boost whilst the engine is under load? Is is something to do with how much exhaust is being produced or is there some kind of valve mechanism that controls this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. running the engine at 3000 RPM in neutral would not produce as much boost as the engine running at 3000 RPM whilst pulling the car uphill in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T00:31:26.307" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T00:31:26.307" Title="Why does a Turbocharger only produce boost when the engine is under load?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|turbocharger|forced-induction|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-25T00:58:18.940" Score="4" ViewCount="8074" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/103663-2001-drive-cycle-following-obdii-reset.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; includes a post with the specific drive cycle that resets the OBD-II monitors on several 2000-2002 Toyota vehicles. What does the drive cycle look like for a 2003 Toyota Corolla?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="136" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T07:20:43.533" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T05:32:25.177" Title="What is the OBD-II drive cycle for a 2003 Toyota Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2736" CreationDate="2012-01-25T02:34:04.813" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 ford focus (built after may 23) died and the AAA and tow guy both said that it needs a  new fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I went to the mechanic and he said it'll be 350 for the pump and 200 for labor. I called Autozone and found it for 170 so I bought the part and brought it to the mechanic and only paid for labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway... after I paid I turned the car on and the check engine light went on. Now even after my car wasn't starting (pre-mechanic) I still didn't have the light on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He called his guy over and saw him go on the machine and it said something like &lt;code&gt;ctl (something) oil (something)&lt;/code&gt; or something like that, I wasn't sure what I was reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy then clicked the &lt;code&gt;&quot;clear all messages&quot;&lt;/code&gt; without doing anything to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did the mechanic try ripping me off or is there such a big gap in the price of parts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did he do something else to my car (break something) knowing that later that I'll need to use him again?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T13:12:26.353" Title="Is my mechanic ripping me off?" Tags="|engine|electrical|ford|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2012-01-25T04:30:33.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pretty much guessed it, and if you didn't &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger&quot;&gt;wikipedia is your friend&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, turbocharger operates by having two turbines connected to the same rotating axis.  One turbine is spun by the exhaust gases, which cause the other turbine to spin.  The second one is what forces the air into the intake of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At idle rpm, there's barely any exhaust to produce boost. Open throttle =&gt; more air moved through the engine =&gt; more exhaust =&gt; more boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T04:30:33.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2012-01-25T05:20:57.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've fixed radiators in the past, but unless your car is one where the replacement radiator is really expensive, you're probably better off just replacing it. A new radiator will usually give &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; better cooling performance. Last time I replaced a radiator is was just $70 or so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T05:20:57.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2012-01-25T09:37:52.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is often a huge gap in the price of parts. There are some components for my car that when bought through the dealer are over £2000 but when sourced on the internet may be under £500. Some of the price differential is down to warranty, dealer specifics, supply and demand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generally for cars that report error messages, once a part has been replaced the mechanic usually has to reset the message - it won't happen automatically. Whether or not this specific message is an indication that he is ripping you off or not would be very difficult to say without more knowledge. I would advise asking what the message meant, and why he required asking his colleague to sort it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T09:37:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2012-01-25T12:40:30.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic probably quoted you pricing for either OEM, or high-end replacement market (like NAPA).  They usually use those parts as they're trying to minimize the liklihood of you having to comeback for the same problem soon.  The lower cost parts available on the Internet and from discount stores tend to have a higher rate of failure.  For a DIYer, the higher rate of failure may be acceptable as the labor is essentially free...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all mechanics will install user supplied parts for that very reason.  They don't want to install a part that they're not comfortable with using.  Some mechanics will, with the understanding that they won't be responsible for early part failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T12:40:30.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2012-01-25T13:12:26.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mechanics quote for the part appears to be in line with the going rate for an OEM Ford part.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=2002%20ford%20focus%20fuel%20pump&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rls=com.microsoft%3a%2a&amp;amp;prmd=ivnsfd&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=15834722918496883668#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is what I see&lt;/a&gt; after Googling for &quot;2002 ford focus fuel pump&quot; and clicking &quot;Shopping&quot;: prices for the &quot;Ford PFS-448 Sender and Pump&quot; ranging from $318 to $448 (as of this search).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you bought was a replacement part that may be just as good (think generic medications vs. brand names).  Replacement parts are like anything else: you should check the reviews of the part and the vendor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to anything at all that goes on in the shop, ask.  You are a paying customer and should never feel shy about figuring out what is going on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they give you a hard time, they've made your decision easy: find another shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T13:12:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2012-01-25T13:25:27.487" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me lead off with an excellent book on the topic: Corky Bell's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0837601606&quot;&gt;Maximum Boost&lt;/a&gt;.  There is a sound treatment of the basics of turbocharger operation in addition to some dated and esoteric applications that are still interesting.  For example, I find the discussion of turbocharging different types of carburetor to be of intellectual if not practical interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize the points called out in your question, here are some of the major aspects of the turbocharged engine that are of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;air flow&lt;/strong&gt;: remember that an internal combustion engine is effectively an air pump.  If we're talking about an engine that is operating &quot;under load&quot;, we can assume that you've opened the throttle.  For example, when rolling down hill, you don't need to hit the throttle so the entire intake to exhaust path is pumping a smaller air mass.  However, driving uphill will require you to open the throttle (give it gas), adding air to the intake.  This causes the engine computer to add fuel to the mixture.  The fuel-air mixture is burned to produce energy.  The exhaust from this combustion then proceeds to ...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;turbine&lt;/strong&gt;: this is part that looks like the front of a jet engine sitting in the exhaust gas path.  The turbine sits on one end of a spinning shaft.  On the other side is the compressor.  That is the part that actually makes the boost on the intake side of the engine.  The more exhaust gas pushes past the turbine, the more it wants to spin and make boost on the compressor side.  However, there is also ...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;wastegate&lt;/strong&gt;: this is a valve that also sits in the exhaust gas path.  It provides a short cut for the exhaust if the engine does not really need boost at this time.  This can be used for peak boost control (too much boost can physically destroy your engine).  This can be a purely mechanical sprung valve that stays closed up to a certain positive pressure in the intake path and then progressively opens as boost increases.  It could also be under the direct control of the engine computer.  For example, my car (in stock tune) was very annoying in its refusal to stay at peak boost in third gear.  It also would refuse to boost past a certain point with partial throttle.  The engine computer was effectively saying &quot;no, that's enough fun for now.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I am rolling downhill in gear with my foot off the gas, the throttle is closed.  There isn't enough air mass passing through the intake to exhaust path to make the turbo spin, wastegate or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the scene changes at the bottom of the hill as we climb the next rise.  I have to open the throttle to get up the hill.  If I'm in low gear, the RPMs will be higher, the exhaust gas energy will be higher and the turbine will spin right up.  However, since I'd require partial throttle at lower gear for the same acceleration, my engine computer might veto boost past a certain point, opening the wastegate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm in high gear, the RPMs will be lower and I'll have to open the throttle wide open to get up the hill.  However, the exhaust gas volume and velocity will be low and it's possible that I won't have enough energy for the turbo to make &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; significant positive pressure (e.g., around 40 mph in fifth in my car).  Even though I'd really like to make boost in this situation, I won't be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T12:23:54.597" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T12:23:54.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1370" CreationDate="2012-01-25T13:38:50.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is solvable at the ECU: one of the profiles that I could install using my AccessPort is called &quot;valet mode.&quot;  The performance is severely limited in that it prevents boost and significant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: going this route would cost you hundreds of dollars.  Admittedly, I really like the performance aspect of the AccessPort and that's why I purchased it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, the best way to prevent boost is to set the wastegate to be always open.  All exhaust gases would then bypass the turbine leaving the engine with no boost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, you could set the blow-off valve to be always open.  That would allow most of the boost to vent, preventing any significant performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T13:38:50.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2531" CreationDate="2012-01-26T05:45:31.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure on your 330, but on my E39 the the battery in the key is automatically recharged when it is in the ignition. There's a clever induction system that keeps the battery charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery may not work that way and may have died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have somehow gotten the car security system to &quot;forget&quot; your keys, so it isn't responding to them any longer. Some BMWs have a process where you can re-learn your keys without needing to take it to the $tealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T05:45:31.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2744" CreationDate="2012-01-26T18:52:28.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ford Focus with around 100k miles on it. I just brought it back from the mechanic for a fuel pump replacement. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2733/is-my-mechanic-ripping-me-off/2738#2738&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; question shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I was driving around going uphill when I realized that I wasn't accelerating anymore. It was then that the check engine light started blinking for like 2 minutes and then turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was done the hill after the stop sign, it started working again like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I was 1/2 mile from my house so I brought it home. By that point the car was pretty jerky like it was about to stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the CEL doing that tell me anything? Also does it sound like theres something really bad wrong with my car, or is it related to the fuel pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T20:40:22.383" Title="2002 Ford Focus CEL blinked for a minute and then turned off" Tags="|engine|electrical|ford|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2012-01-26T19:44:19.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dumped a lot of fuel stabilizer and lots of this other blue enzyme stuff in the fuel tank and when I used it for this most recent snow, it never hiccuped. I guess it was bad gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T19:44:19.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2012-01-26T20:27:17.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blinking CEL is on this car is an indication of a misfire.  It sounds like you either have a bad or misconnected coil or spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem that needs to get solved but I don't think it's likely a consequence of the fuel pump replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try visually inspecting the coil and spark plug wires.  Look for grey streaks for places where your spark is escaping from its proper electrical path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if it's just spark plug wires, those are quite easy to replace and not costly in the bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T20:27:17.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="601" CreationDate="2012-01-26T22:26:39.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a solution specific to your car, but you may want to swing by your local auto parts store. They often have code readers on hand that they will use to read your codes for free. No idea if they'd have one that can do ABS codes on an OBD-I Volvo, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T22:26:39.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2012-01-26T22:38:47.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very possible to harm yourself if you arch the terminal over a dead battery. Charging batteries are putting off very flammable hydrogen gas and can explode very easily. Make sure to use the engine block to ground the cable vs. the terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1461" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T16:06:52.140" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T16:06:52.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2750" CreationDate="2012-01-27T02:13:17.977" Score="4" ViewCount="51364" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steering wheel is very hard to turn immediately after starting the van when the engine is cold.  This only happens intermittently (maybe 1 out of 30 times) After a few seconds it becomes easy to turn, as if the power steering was off and it turned itself on. I checked the the power steering fluid and it is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan, with about 160,000 miles on it.  Rack and power steering pump are original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="702" LastEditorUserId="702" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T17:08:59.673" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T20:33:37.657" Title="Why would the steering be intermittently very heavy in a 2001 Dodge Caravan?" Tags="|dodge|power-steering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2012-01-27T12:59:41.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was a squeal when it came on, it could simply be that the belt is loose and/or wet.  The belt ends up sliding around instead of spinning the pump.  Ultimately it grabs (with a squeal) and gets the pump going.  A contributing factor can be a failing pump that is much harder to turn.  I'd check the belt tension and condition for sure.  If possible, I'd also check to see if the force to turn the pump is within spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T12:59:41.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2012-01-27T14:35:20.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Jeep Cherokee has similar symptoms - oil level is fine, but occasionally the steering lost power assist right after one started the engine. Had a word with the local mechanic and he suggests that the most likely cause is a pump that's beginning to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T14:35:20.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2012-01-27T16:19:30.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With power steering complaints such as yours where the symptom is intermittent the diagnosis is mostly guesswork in a setting such as this. You can do a few things to get to the source though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A little about modern power steering&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Many vehicles have power steering assist controls such as a vehicle speed sensors and pressure switches/solenoids that stage the level of power assist based on speed and steering load. Typically you should have full assist at lower speeds fading into no assist at higher speeds, so at startup in your driveway full assist should be present on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before working through guesses you should make as many observations as possible to pinpoint things such as leaks or failing components. Look for leaks and listen for odd noises related to turning the steering wheel back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibilities:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This list of possibilities is not exhaustive and is simply drawn from my personal experience. Your mileage on its usefulness may vary. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluid is low&lt;/em&gt; - upon startup a car with low fluid can/will develop surges due to air being sucked through the system. Check the fluid level at your power steering reservoir. Adjust the fluid level as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluid is contaminated&lt;/em&gt; - power steering fluid will contaminate over time and properly flushing the power steering system is a commonly neglected maintenance item. Depending on driving conditions and fluid quality the contamination can vary from soot developing in the system to goopy sludge caused by moisture. Use a turkey baster to draw out some of the fluid when it is cold and determine whether it is contaminated. The fluid should not be black/opaque. Check your owner's manual for the recommended power steering service interval and do this first if you are having a problem. If the fluid is contaminated then putting off the flush could lead to much more expensive repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The filter is clogging up&lt;/em&gt; - this is usually a byproduct of condition #2 and typically the clogging filter is what gets a person to pursue fixing their car's problem. Some vehicles have an inline filter where on others there is a screen built into the reservoir that captures contaminants. Replacing or cleaning the reservoir should be part of a good power steering flush. If your reservoir is clogging then negative pressure on the system can cause wear problems on other components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The power steering pump is leaking/failing&lt;/em&gt; - A failing power steering pump often is visibly leaking. Leaking pumps fail to operate properly due to air/contaminants entering through the bad seal or lack of sufficient operating pressure caused by fluid escaping the seal. (depending on which seal is leaking) Premature failure of a power steering pump can also be experienced when certain power steering fluid types begin to break down or abrasive contaminants are carried through the system. The failing pump is going to get your attention when it begins to buzz, rattle or whine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The control body is failing&lt;/em&gt; - There is a controller consisting of orifices and valves that allows fluid to flow based on need and rack load. This control body has highly precise tolerances and will wear out or clog due to fluid contamination or fluid failure. This unit is typically part of the rack and pinion assembly. If you hear a whine or jitter coming from under the vehicle and in close proximity to where the steering yoke meets your power steering rack then this could be the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Other unknowns&lt;/em&gt; - The problem could be none of the above. Kinked or collapsed hoses, electrical problems and even solid state device failure is not out of the question. Anomalies across designs exist and a specialist with your car maker might be the best place to find advice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="1381" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T19:32:45.903" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T19:32:45.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2669" CreationDate="2012-01-28T15:58:02.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the squeal. If it's not really there when idling, but squeals quite loudly when you rev up, it's probably the accessories drive belt a little loose. What's happening is that the alternator is taking quite a load to replace the battery charge. If the squeal is more or less constant, it could be the water pump (if not driven by the cam belt) or alternator bearings on the way out. Have a shufti at the water pump to check for slow leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T15:58:02.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2012-01-28T16:04:04.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why was the rad. replaced? If because it was faulty it might have taken out the thermostat as it went. As others have said above the radiator itself can't overcool with a working thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T16:04:04.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-29T03:52:26.463" Score="3" ViewCount="2797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, my car is frozen. it's negative Fahrenheit over here now. &#xA;What I've tried: jump start, warm up starter, new spark plugs. nothing helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the only approach is to heat it in the garage, but no available garage and tow at this time. so, I was thinking about covering the hood with rugs and putting heater underneath, but I'm not sure what kind of heater will help. Do you know what heater should I get so it's gonig to be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to prevent car from freezing if I have no block heater? do I need a tune-up? what kind of a tune-up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T20:42:25.683" Title="Car is frozen. cannot start" Tags="|nissan|starting|freezing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2759" CreationDate="2012-01-29T04:08:26.500" Score="2" ViewCount="4568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well recently I bumped into the side of a fence while reversing out of my drive way. It wasn't very fast but there is a huge dent on the rear left of the car. Luckily I missed the brake lights and the bumper but everything between that and the mud guard (type area) is flat. I got a quote from a panel beater and it turned out to be $450 bucks, and I honestly don't have that money to spend on this so I'm thinking of doing this my self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I've found these tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Plastic-Suction-Cup-Dent-Puller-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=143262#Description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Plastic-Suction-Cup-Dent-Puller-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=143262#Description&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Dent-Puller-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=2342#Reviews&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Dent-Puller-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=2342#Reviews&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would these be suitable for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGk6R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bU8A3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVS4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T16:03:35.623" Title="DIY Panel Beating - Got any Tips?" Tags="|toyota|body|body-work|dent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2758" CreationDate="2012-01-29T16:03:35.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think either tool would be suitable, especially if you don't have any experience doing bodywork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one needs a fairly large reasonably flat area to attach itself to and given the way the metal is caved in you might end up pulling at the wrong point. The slide hammer needs the 'nails' welding to the metal so unless you have the tools for that, it's not going to do the job for you. Especially with the slide hammer, you also &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; need paintwork afterwards and might even have to weld closed a few holes if the 'nail' rips off during slide hammer use, as that tends to leave a hole behind. With the first one you have a better chance to not do any further damage if you can get it to adhere to the metal and pull carefully - you don't want to go from pushed in to pulled out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would probably do (caveat: I have done bodywork before) is try to see if I can get to the dents from inside the car. If you can, warm up the outside of the car with a fan heater or a hair dryer (the latter on low heat) so the paint softens a little and becomes less brittle. Do that very carefully, then see if you can pop out the dent from the inside with your hand by just pushing it out. To be honest, given the depth of the dent the metal might have stretched enough that you can't just pop out the dent without shrinking the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check if there is a paintless dent removal service in your area and have a word with them if they can fix the dent cheaper than the bodyshop who gave you a quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T16:03:35.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T02:57:58.597" Score="1" ViewCount="4877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked up online how to do this and got two decent resources - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiCPCpWcRzE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one is a video&lt;/a&gt; and one is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7404295_change-1996-subaru-legacy-sedan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;text description&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the video does not show what I have in my car.  My car has some kind of rubber housing over a large part of the assembly.  I could not figure out how to remove the rubber boot.  (I did get the electrical connector off the back though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text description has no pictures and seems to be either contradictory or is skipping steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or a better resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="365" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:41:29.310" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T22:52:41.463" Title="How do I change a headlight bulb in my 1996 Subaru wagon? (Outback)" Tags="|maintenance|subaru|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2012-01-30T09:08:46.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First check to see if you can remove the electrical connector - it is easier to do this when the bulb is still in the housing. Sometimes this can be a challenge, as wiring up until '01 wasn't really thick enough gauge so heating sometimes melts the connector a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the connector is out the way, it is much easier to see how the rubber boot is fixed in - wiggle it to see where the tabs attach, and it can just be pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then pop the bulb socket out by turning it anticlockwise and pulling. Change the bulb over and refit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T09:08:46.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T14:20:50.780" Score="2" ViewCount="51538" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick googling, I found forums saying to put the headlight in the oven at around 250 until condensation evaporates, and the glue around the edge will reform. Is this safe? Is there a better way to remove condensation and prevent it in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have a 2dr '08 civic coupe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T16:59:08.587" Title="What's the best way to remove headlight condensation?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2012-01-30T14:28:29.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can remove the bulb and put a couple desiccants into the assembly until it dries out.  You will want to inspect the housing for cracks and any breaks in the seal.  You can use silicone sealant to fix the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is still under warranty, I would try having them replace it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="890" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T14:28:29.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:53:52.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess the biggest (and most helpful) part of removing the headlight assembly to bake it would be the fact that you can inspect the breather/venting ports at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think baking the assembly at 250 is a little aggressive since that's the temperature most of us run the assembly at for 10-15 minutes when we are softening the glue for housing disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I would do if it were my car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the headlight assembly per service manual instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bulbs and any harness parts/brackets that are easy to take off of the housing. Put the headlight bulbs in something that will keep them from getting dirty/smudged/greasy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the housing. If there are no obvious cracks or breaches move on to the breathing/venting ports... they will have rubber tubes attached to them. You can easily remove the tubes for inspection and clearing. Used compressed air to blow out the rubber tubes OFF OF THE HOUSING. Do not blow air into the housing as you stand a good chance of getting debris inside the chamber that you may never get back out without completely baking and disassembling the housing. If you can see an obstruction in the housing port for any vent then try to carefully suck it out of the port with a small vacuum, solder sucker or similar device.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bake the moisture out of the housing. With the bulbs out and the vent tubes removed you have a good setup for water vapor to escape during baking. Now place your headlight assembly into a preheated oven at somewhere between 120 and 180 degrees. This is warm enough that the housing will get hot and evaporate the moisture without making the lens sealer too soft. Probably (and this is a guess) no more than 25 minutes at this temperature... keep an eye on the points where it contacts your oven grill just to make sure. I don't think those temperatures are high enough to jeopardize the housing integrity at all though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble the housing to the state it was (though cleaner I'm sure) with all tubes and bulbs re-installed. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-install on the vehicle and take notice of any areas where water could have flooded your housing... this is where you will be watching in coming weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hold your breath and hope it was just a one time thing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This happened several times in my Odyssey tails and I actually found tiny cracks in the front housing that would have not looked very good with sealer in them so I replaced the tail lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T05:47:32.917" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T05:47:32.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2773" CreationDate="2012-01-30T22:37:55.170" Score="4" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;My left turn signal started malfunctioning the other day, here are the symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left turn signal (on dashboard) clicks at roughly twice the rate as the right turn signal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear turning light flashes quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front turning light does not flash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried replacing the fuse but that did not work. Should I replace the light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:13:37.127" Title="Turn Signal Malfunctioning" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-31T00:30:06.637" Score="20" ViewCount="184777" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I actually don't even have the car anymore.  But I did immediately change this tire at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my rear right tire. It has a significant bulge in the sidewall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two pictures of the bulge (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3F8V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original URL&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYVB8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/areEp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace it before I ever drive on it again? Should I put on the spare to go buy the new tire? Or is it fine to even go a little bit on the highway for a few days before I replace it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1471" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:27:29.280" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:27:29.280" Title="HOW urgently should I replace this tire? Is it safe to drive on at all?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-31T00:38:00.347" Score="0" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; KIA&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Soul+&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 2012&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a cable that runs from the dash, under the seat, to the driver's side seat belt buckle. Underneath the seat, there is an obscure wire-to-wire molex connector that breaks the cable. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement connector for this? I have looked everywhere on-line and been unable to find one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we find that my description is not detailed enough, I will try to post a picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1277" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T16:45:55.527" Title="Connector for driver's side seat belt cable in KIA Soul" Tags="|electrical|kia|soul|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2012-01-31T02:29:29.373" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I wouldn't drive on that tire - if it delaminates while you're driving you're risking a blowout. You get bulges like that if the rubber basically separates from the various reinforcement plys in the tire and as the air in the tire heats up from driving, it'll slowly expand. All it takes then is something that pokes/cuts the bulge to turn your car into a three wheeler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd slap on the spare tire and take this one down to your local tire place of least distrust. In the trunk, not on the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T02:29:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2012-01-31T03:13:59.620" Score="35" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or is it fine to even go a little bit on the highway for a few days&#xA;  before I replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  Please don't drive on that tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are seeing a large scale deformation in a portion of the tire that's not designed for point stresses like that.  There's pretty clearly a thin layer of rubber standing between the marginally acceptable and explosively decompressive states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, just so we're clear, please don't drive for a couple of days on the temporary spare, either.  It's not rated for that kind of workload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T23:40:58.270" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T23:40:58.270" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2012-01-31T07:27:17.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Saturn 2004 would not stary on cold mornings. The triple AAA came out and found checked the battery and alternator was just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being in the shop for quite some time the found it was the body control module. That is the computer brains of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1472" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T07:27:17.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2765" CreationDate="2012-01-31T08:44:30.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front light bulb has failed. Simple fix!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T08:44:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2012-01-31T12:24:13.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to damage either or both of the cars. &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/24830/3552&quot;&gt;There's a risk of serious overvoltage when jump-starting&lt;/a&gt; and that can damage any electronic equipment and even headlights that are on during the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why, for example, Ford Focus C-Max manual says that all electronics and headlights should be turned off during the jump start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:06.710" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T12:24:13.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2765" CreationDate="2012-01-31T13:44:57.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way most indicators are set up is that the load on them affects the flash rate (those older models used current flowing through a bi-metallic strip: the bulb current heated the strip which then broke the flow of current).  Modern indicator circuits are often much more electronic, but the same setup is used to make it obvious to the driver what the problem is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @NickC says, it's the bulb that needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of indicator problems are down to the bulb - it is a consumable - so just replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less likely is the indicator relay (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26424/is-it-possible-to-repair-an-intermittent-or-flaky-turn-signal-flasher-relay&quot;&gt;Is it possible to repair an intermittent or flaky turn signal flasher relay?&lt;/a&gt; for a possible repair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:13:37.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2012-01-31T16:45:55.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably the connector to the buckle sensor, and you can call the dealer. Connectors and things like that are usually fairly affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T16:45:55.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-01T09:57:13.220" Score="5" ViewCount="42861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2007 Ford Focus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning was the first time the car was in freezing temperatures since I have owned it and after unlocking the door and opening it the door latch would not engage and hold the door closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperatures was only zero degrees Celsius at most last night and the windscreen of the car was not frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe the lock was frozen, could this be a problem with the latch spring on the door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T18:26:12.853" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T01:57:34.577" Title="Ford Focus door not latching closed at freezing temperatures" Tags="|ford|locks|focus|door|freezing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2012-02-01T11:57:25.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Viscosity of DOT4 is more than DOT3 and it maintains its fluidity at a higher temp. Also, the brakes shall be more effective when the system gets hot during a long drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastEditorUserId="569" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T21:03:10.930" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:03:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2012-02-01T15:55:46.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere.  Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T15:55:46.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2780" CreationDate="2012-02-02T10:55:39.527" Score="1" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has its MOT test coming up in a month, what can I do at home to help it pass through and make it ready/easier for the mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1314" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T16:13:48.567" Title="How should I prepare my car for its annual MOT test" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2778" CreationDate="2012-02-02T11:52:51.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick assessment of your normal consumables is worthwhile - do any bulbs need replacing, check your wiper blades, are there any visible leaks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your oil, depending on your relationship with your MOT garage, is it worth replacing your oil yourself, or can they do it cheaply if necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I would do to make life easy for the garage is to clean out the boot so they can get at the spare wheel etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, aside from wiper blades and bulbs, I would let my garage do everything - it is my cheapest, quickest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the activities you should do to help your car pass an MOT are continuous throughout the year in terms of good maintenance and service practices so you can't really do much at this late stage to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T11:52:51.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2778" CreationDate="2012-02-02T14:30:50.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll second &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2779/858&quot;&gt;Rory's points&lt;/a&gt;. I'd also suggest giving it a quick clean (especially underneath), so they don't have mud getting in the way when they try and check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should already be checking your lights, tyres, fluids etc on a regular basis. If it is more than a few years old it is worth giving the seatbelts a visual check. Make sure there are no scratches or cracks in the windscreen. Make sure the washer fluid is full - A silly little thing, but it will fail if it is empty! If any of your doors are stiff, oil them so that they open, close and latch properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You hopefully won't have anything hanging from your rear view mirror, but if you have, remove it - it will fail for obstructing your vision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is all common sense really, if you've been maintaining your car properly you shouldn't have any major problems. Saying that, I've had bulbs fail on the way from home to the MOT garage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T16:13:48.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-03T06:34:17.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1680" Body="&lt;p&gt;My neon has 125000km.  Recently started clunking especially over speed bumps - replaced the the lower bushes and shock absorbers but still continues.  Related is a Brrrrrr sound on hard acceleration from low speed.  Any one give me ideas as to what to try next?  thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1478" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T06:54:54.820" Title="2005 chrysler neon clunking noise from front end" Tags="|suspension|chrysler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2012-02-03T18:25:17.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It if was freezing outside, it was almost certainly colder inside the latch mechanism.  It sounds like ice formed on the spring and / or the latch hinge.  You were able to use the leverage of the door handle to move the latch against the friction of the ice but then the spring wasn't able to push it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When something like this happens, I would suggest either using a heat gun or hairdryer right on the latch or, if that's not feasible, getting in the car with the heater on full blast.  At a certain point, the latch will pop loose enough to hold the door closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the latch is nice and warm, Brian is correct about WD-40 for water displacement (thus the name).  The ambient temperatures don't necessarily have to be over freezing but it will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you feel that the water has moved on, I'd lube the latch liberally with standard white lithium grease.  I like lithium grease because (a) it works almost everywhere, (b) it's cheap and (c) it's relatively high visibility (so I can see where it is and where it has rubbed off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T18:25:17.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2012-02-03T22:00:57.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Focus 2010 model and can confirm that Bobs advise is absolutely right. The same thing happened to me this evening when my passenger door when opened wouldn't latch in again (currently outside temp minus 5c). Just 10 seconds using a hair drier on the latch solved the problem for me. I also then sprayed the mechanism with WD40 for good measure. Had the same thing happen on an 05 Focus, but then it was door wouldn't open at all on drivers side, so had to slide through from passenger side, once cabin temp was raised all was ok.... I'm guessing that a Ford Focus won't be the car of choice in Russia! Thanks for advise Bob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastEditorUserId="1480" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T10:22:37.417" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T10:22:37.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2012-02-04T05:52:13.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things I can think of are the mounts, and loose brakes. When you press the brakes the calipers would smash on the wheel. I have seen this on calipers missing one bolt. The strut mounts could be bad/loose and this would also cause the noise. Also, check you rear drive axle unless you know for sure the sound is coming from the front. You mentioned acceleration, how are your engine mounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T05:52:13.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2719" CreationDate="2012-02-04T05:57:53.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other electrical problems? When you restart the car the problem can still be there, but it resets. If there are other electrical problems, these could be the culprit simply affect the sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T05:57:53.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3003" CreationDate="2012-02-05T03:13:29.650" Score="1" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to explain this problem as clearly as possible. I have a 97 Bonneville, automatic transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating from idle, &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; two strange things happen: the car reaches ~20 mph, and then does not go any faster even when feeding it more gas. It just reaches 3000rpm and does not shift to second gear. Also, the spedometer stays at 0mph. It does not reflect the speed whatsoever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tends to happen after this occurs, is after some short but disconcerting amount of time, the car actually shifts to second, the spedometer moves to the right position, and everything is fine after that. After returning to first gear, this problem may or may not occur again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have encountered this problem when going from first to second. And, initially I thought it was only happening when the engine was cold, but its started happening more and more now, even when the engine has been running for a good while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, transmissions messed up? What should I do here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1482" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T02:18:33.620" Title="97 Bonneville, strange problems accelerating" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|shifting|bonneville|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2790" CreationDate="2012-02-05T09:21:11.600" Score="4" ViewCount="4552" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some old stickers applied to my windshield and they won't peal off.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;How do I remove these stickers and any adhesive residuals without damaging the windshield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1483" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T16:50:14.257" Title="How do I remove old stickers from my windshield?" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2012-02-05T16:50:14.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends very much on the sticker material. For vinyl stickers I've had good experience warming them up with a hairdryer to soften the glue and then slowly peeling them off. I've also managed to get them off a windshield using a scraper (essentially a razor blade with a handle similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/razor-blade-scraper-98039.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). You have to be a bit careful with the latter but I managed to get the vinyl sticker off without scratching the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the glue residue I've had good experience with both WD40 (which you can also use to soften paper stickers) and tar spot remover - I used Autoglym's tar remover but I'm sure you can get similar tar removers from a bunch of different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T16:50:14.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2794" CreationDate="2012-02-05T19:58:19.840" Score="16" ViewCount="24833" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, how does an automatic gearbox know when to change gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, how does the autobox know to shift down when you hit a gradient? How does it know to shift up at 2000 rpm when driving gently? When driving 'enthusiastically' how does it know to hold the shift until redline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a modern vehicle this will be computer controlled.  In addition to the above, how did older analogue transmissions accomplish this before computer controls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:06:25.120" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T09:38:37.797" Title="How does an automatic gearbox know when to change gear?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|hydraulic-pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2356" CreationDate="2012-02-05T21:44:02.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just suck out the old stuff from the reservoir using a vacuum pump (turkey baster will do).  Be careful not to stir up any sediment though as this could get into the system.  Fill it up again with fresh fluid (brake fluid sucks moisture from the air so make sure you buy a new bottle).  Bleed the brakes until the fluid is the same color as in the bottle (or at least close).  That's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1475" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T21:44:02.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2864" CreationDate="2012-02-06T08:49:48.123" Score="2" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Make:   Pontiac&#xA;Model:  Sunfire&#xA;Year:   2001&#xA;Engine: 2.2 L&#xA;Trans:  Automatic &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello to every one, bought my first car and it is fine except for this little annoying problem. After driving it for a while the &lt;code&gt;trac off&lt;/code&gt; light goes on and the RPMs start to go really high 3K ~ 4K, the transmission does not upshift gears and when it does it kicks a bit hard and I've noticed that if I let go the accelerator the car sometimes shuts down,  this problem comes and goes, it goes away if I stop using the car for a while but eventually comes back, I had the car scanned at autozone and at a transmission repair shop they obtained the following codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor&#xA;P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold&#xA;P0742 - Torque Converter Clutch&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions regarding the codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How serious are these codes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How reliable is the diagnosis of the scan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which of these are DIY'able?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's the recomended order to fix them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1485" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T13:06:11.323" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:06:11.323" Title="Faulty TCC solenoid or bad computer?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|pontiac|p0420|p0122|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2791" CreationDate="2012-02-06T13:12:10.567" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put it bluntly, they had to implement a fuzzy logic analog computer based on hydraulics rather than a digital computer based on binary states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BH6Q0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The hydraulic paths as illustrated by How Stuff Works.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission12.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Stuff Works&lt;/a&gt; has a reasonable introduction to the basic concepts with enough vocabulary to kick off more detailed research if you're really interested.  That link will take you directly to the breakdown of the hydraulic paths and the speed governor.  Those are the core parts required to provide input to that analog computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q46XO.gif&quot; alt=&quot;A high level summary of the shift circuit as illustrated by How Stuff Works.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the shift circuit at the very highest level, you can see how the analog computer is going to work.  Vacuum states are generally interpereted as low load, off-throttle or generally as situations suited for higher gears.  As the throttle opens, the transmission will tend to gear down.  As the governor speeds up, the lower gears cease to be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Slightly off-topic: If you have ever worked in any sort of device control situation, these sorts of pictures give you the creeping heebie jeebies.  In any work that I've ever done, I need to know for certain what state the machine is in and what's going to happen next when I provide my input.  An analog control computer made out of metal and oil?  Ick.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T13:12:10.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2798" CreationDate="2012-02-06T13:56:33.333" Score="11" ViewCount="18904" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the need for car battery chargers that I often see on display in auto parts shops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean a battery is sold charged (and if it discharges too much it just dies and can't be restored) and every car has an alternator for charging the battery and if the battery is empty and can't start the engine then jump-starting is not a problem. So any usable battery can be installed into the car and fully charged there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the scenarios for using those chargers? Why and when would one use such charger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T01:30:25.460" Title="Why use a car battery charger?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:27:36.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;E.g., driving only short distances may make it difficult for the alternator to keep up (low running-engine-time to number-of-starts ratio.) Connecting a battery charger when the car is parked can keep the battery fully charged and eliminate the need for occasional jump-starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T14:27:36.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:30:27.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a battery is allowed to sit and partially discharge, it's wise to charge it with a battery charger rather than putting all that load on the alternator of the car.  Using the car's alternator to &quot;charge&quot; rather than just topping off the battery leads to premature failure.  With the ridiculous price that quality alternators cost these days, you do NOT want to have to replace it any more often than you have to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T14:30:27.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:50:05.920" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why and when would one use such charger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind, the major needs fall into two major categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have a vehicle that does not get driven enough to keep the battery up to charge against its passive drain.  Common examples would include the summer-only car or the utility vehicle that you only use for heavy hauling.  In either of those cases, I would tend to hook up the battery charger at least an hour before I really needed to drive the vehicle, just to avoid the potential frustration and delay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have ever had a battery fail on you (or worse, your &lt;em&gt;spouse&lt;/em&gt;).  Traditionally, this is when most of us tend to buy a charger: immediately after a battery failure in a high stress environment.  It's important to remember that a sudden dip in temperature (e.g., below freezing) can suddenly illustrate that a battery you thought was fine is actually not able to cope.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively cheap charger (item 2 above applies to me).  It was a relatively cheap purchase, especially when you consider the stress avoidance factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a more expensive battery conditioner that a higher income person than me would leave connected to their summer car's battery through the winter.  It is perfectly suitable for bringing my parent's old truck out of their garage after a few months of disuse, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: responding to sharptooth's questions in the comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm particularly interested in the 2nd scenario. Suppose the car won't&#xA;  start and I jump-start it and then buy a charger. How do I use the&#xA;  charger then? Do I charge the battery once and forget or what do I do&#xA;  with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to make a judgement call.  Is this a fairly new battery that died after a month of sitting out in the cold?  Or is this an older battery that should have worked but for some reason did not have enough juice to get you going?  Or somewhere in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the time when I'm most likely to use a charger is when I am in something more like the second situation.  I charge the older battery up to full, get the vehicle started and drive straight to the battery vendor of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The times when I am willing to charge up a battery and then run it without concern are focused on the &quot;disused vehicle&quot; situation.  In the case of the specific vehicle in question, I bought that battery and I know it's fine.  The truck just never gets run unless there's some heavy hauling that needs to be done.  In those cases, my procedure is generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook it up to the charger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat a sandwich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T16:22:07.233" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T16:22:07.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2898" CreationDate="2012-02-06T18:46:56.143" Score="4" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '93 Gixxer is in the shed for winter. I had it fully tanked, the shed is (moderately) warm, and every couple of weeks I attach a trickle charger to its battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I know that there is still old fuel in the motor. My (late - hence this question, R.I.P.) dealer-mechanic let off the carburetors last year, but I'm sorry to say I did not entirely get what he was saying back then (my fault). I distinctly remember him unscrewing something deep in the machine's bowels, but I didn't see what that was exactly - nor do I have such a long screwdriver, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options now? What screws exactly did he fiddle? Or could I just let it run with the fuel switch off until it stalls? Will that leave enough fuel in the tank to prevent corrosion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: actually, silly me: of course the tank will remain filled if the fuel switch is off. :-) But the question remains: which is technically better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T21:57:39.787" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:57:39.787" Title="How to let off the carburetors of a 1993 Suzuki GSX-R 1100 for winter storage?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|carburetor|winter|gsxr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2757" CreationDate="2012-02-07T02:03:01.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please bear in mind that this is risky and you may not want to do it with an expensive car, or without a fire extinguisher handy. When my cooling system froze, I jacked up the front a bit, took a butane camping stove and put it under the engine, and left it lit for a few minutes. Solved the problem in a hurry, but I'd already ruined the water pump the first time I tried to start the engine with the cooling system frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T02:03:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1673" CreationDate="2012-02-07T03:02:39.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just thought I'd post how we resolved this issue: my girlfriend eventually figured out that if she pushes her elbows into the back of the seat while sitting, the airbag activates and the warning light goes off. It only seems to be necessary once, and then the airbag is active for the rest of the drive until I restart the engine. Now she just does this whenever I start my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of it being just an issue of weight, it's really a combination of weight/skinniness that keeps these sensors higher up in the seatback and to the side from triggering. I'm guessing the height is a factor to filter out children, but I'm not sure why Mazda put them so far apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, given that we found a way to trick the car into saving my girlfriend's life it doesn't feel worth it dinking around with corporate any more - seems like they're not going to care until some unlucky person gets hurt. I at least hope they've taken enough notice to fix the issue in future designs - yo Mazda, not everyone in the US is huge okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon" LastEditorDisplayName="anon" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T02:21:26.383" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T02:21:26.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-07T16:32:42.800" Score="2" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1999 Saturn SL2, there are clips that are supposed to hold the ignition/plug wires in place onto the coil pack and the bolt that goes through it may play a role in grounding the circuit.  One of them is missing.  There's corrosion on the pack where it's missing, so it's apparently important.  What is that part called, and can you buy replacements anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T13:50:45.403" Title="Clips that hold plug wires onto coil pack?" Tags="|saturn|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2804" CreationDate="2012-02-07T19:40:36.783" Score="2" ViewCount="1604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been to the car store four times and each time they tell me that the battery is good. A few of the cold-cranking amps (maybe at 50 or so, I don't remember the exact amount) are gone otherwise it just needs a good charge. Despite that information, my car's battery is found low enough that I can't start the car way too often ('98 Chevy Malibu). The battery is around 3 or so years old. I can charge it and things work for a while. One battery test they did also tested the alternator and that seemed to be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I was there, they suggested maybe something like a radio or computer is starting to suck battery when it isn't supposed to. I have a multi-meter. Where should I start to diagnose this myself so I don't have to pay an arm-and-a-leg for diagnosis. The only accessory I use is an iPod/iPhone radio transmitter. I realize it does use some power and doesn't help, but I have been using that for at least 3 years now and never had problems before. Any other ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:12:41.640" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T04:12:41.640" Title="Power vampire in car. Where do I start looking?" Tags="|battery|chevrolet|malibu|n-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2803" CreationDate="2012-02-08T10:18:39.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you disconnect the battery without upsetting the car's electrics? (You should be able to on a car of that age, but some newer cars or cars with fancy alarms can get upset)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, remove one terminal and connect the multimeter, set to ammeter mode, in series with it. &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; attempt to start the car like this (best to leave the keys well clear of the ignition), as that will destroy the multimeter. The meter should tell you if there is any current being drawn. If there is a draw, remove fuses one by one until it goes away - start with the likely suspects such as the radio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't disconnect the battery, the same test can be done at the fusebox - simply remove the fuse from the suspect circuit, and touch the probes of the meter to the contacts in its place - if the meter shows a current draw, you have your suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T10:18:39.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3178" CreationDate="2012-02-08T19:00:54.157" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used car, and I'm going to get it smogged soon.  Apparently (this is what the mechanic said), I can't get it smogged until 2 &quot;checks&quot; turn on.  I think this means that the check engine light may or may not come on soon, but I need to drive it until its activated or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if the check engine light comes on and the repairs are going to be expensive, is there a smog abatement fee I can pay so that I can skip the repairs?  It was a very cheap car, and I don't want to have to pay more on repairs than I paid for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if this question is not in the scope of this beta, and I will remove it.  Any additional information (e.g. what are the &quot;checks&quot; he's talking about?) will be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T05:56:09.713" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T15:23:58.337" Title="Is there a smog abatement program for repairs greater than a certain amount in california?" Tags="|subaru|obd-ii|registration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-09T04:47:37.883" Score="3" ViewCount="6448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee. I can jump or charge, drive it, then the  moment I shut it off it is dead and needs a jump. I have pulled all of the fuses, and bought numerous batteries. It is not the alternator. Something is draining my battery. It seems to do it while it sits and while I drive it. I have had other mechanics look at it with no success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through research it seems that these cars have a lot of problems with this type of issue. I'm looking for any help and hoping someone has found the solution to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:04:48.407" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T03:07:08.153" Title="2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Draining Battery" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2012-02-09T11:51:45.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery is so dead that immediately after stopping it can't start again, then it is not charging. You say that the alternator is fine, but have you checked the charging circuits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for a static parasitic draw (see my answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2803/power-vampire-in-car-where-do-i-start-looking&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, or various others here on similar subjects). Check the current being produced by the alternator, and the voltage across the battery, both with the engine running and off. It should be around 13.5v with the engine running, if the charging system is working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T11:51:45.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-09T12:55:46.240" Score="3" ViewCount="8325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a brand new 207 '12 and its done its 1000mile checkup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this i told them there was a horrible grinding noise comming from when i was breaking, even a metal on metal screech sometimes??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They told me that a stone... got lodged in the brake pad and caused a lip in the brake disc.. so they skimmed the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the noise is still lightly audible,, like a grinding away when i tap the brake. It brakes fine it is just worrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in school, when we had geology during geography classes, or physics even.. it is said that only a harder material can scratch or damage another softer material.. ie A diamond will scratch/cut glass and wont ever damage ever.. because it is the hardest natural mineral in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it true that a stone.. lets say they hardest available stone on a public road can damage a disc brake causing a LIP like groove in a solid metal disc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK I went to an independent high street service garage that specialise in tyres,brakes and exhausts. They did a &quot;safety inspection&quot; for me but obviously I pointed out to them a problem with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8Ijx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front look OK, unfortunately i had not taken pics of the inner sides.. and on both sides they are grooved pretty bad...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They officially wrote on an inspection printout that their inspection reveals that there was no skimming done to the brake disc rotors (in fact one guy told me he used to work for the dealership and they don't even own a skimming machine... besides.. he added, you don't skim discs on new cars any more.. wow...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is like 4 months old.. look at all that rust.. they obviously saving on galvanising bits.. its a joke...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish this article get published as much as possible to proove to everybody how dealships pull wool over unknowing customers. I never told them i have years of experience with cars.. and they blatainlty lied to my face.. in my eyes and over the phone. It has jsut become natural to them.. If they told me the truth I would have jsut sold the car after its warranty and never bought a piece of sh** peugot again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9A9Ok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1496" LastEditorUserId="1496" LastEditDate="2012-02-12T22:15:51.930" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T19:08:17.107" Title="Disc brake damage, how can it happen?" Tags="|brakes|peugeot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2808" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:42:13.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very true.  I run my cars in dirt/gravel events and the rotors get pretty scored up from gravel working its way in between the pads and rotors.  It makes horrendous screeching noises too.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:42:13.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2811" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:59:58.027" Score="10" ViewCount="93547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose a car owner lives in an apartment building and parks his car nearby. He wants to detach the battery, bring it home and charge it with a mains-powered charger indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to properly handle the battery so that no damage is done to people and property?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T19:13:27.343" Title="What precautions are needed when charging a car battery in an apartment?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2012-02-09T16:14:58.007" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt;: I wouldn't charge a battery indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A battery represents a heavy mass of chemical and electrical energy.  It should be treated as a fairly dangerous object if it makes its way into your home.  Some of the risk factors include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy&lt;/strong&gt;: a car battery is a heavy object.  Ensure that it is in a stable location with no change of tipping or falling because it is full of ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acid&lt;/strong&gt;: a car battery is full of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfuric_acid#Grades_of_sulfuric_acid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sulphuric acid&lt;/a&gt;.  Ensure that is has no chance of tipping, spilling or otherwise expelling acid onto people, pets, valuables or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfuric_acid#Reactions_with_metals_and_strong_oxidizing_property&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many metals&lt;/a&gt;.  Remember, you are about to make the situation even worse by introducing ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electricity&lt;/strong&gt;: be very careful with the terminals of a car battery.  There are plenty of amps in there waiting to jump into a conductor and make enormously exciting and dangerous sparks.  Keep in mind that when charging a car battery, it will produce hydrogen gas of some concentration.  Ensure that the environment is well ventilated because otherwise there's an excellent chance of a dangerous ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fire&lt;/strong&gt;: have a fire extinguisher in your hand.  Note: you will have to make a judgment call on what type you need: what will the hydrogen ignite and how will you put it out?  Where will the acid go when you start hosing it around with the extinguisher?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were forced to do this inside my house, I would put the battery in a large Pyrex casserole dish on the floor, run the charger from a GFCI outlet (to act as an additional ciruit breaker) and keep the fire extinguisher in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would also wait until my wife was not home and I would not tell her later about the dumb thing I did today....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all seriousness, what I would do (and have done) is to connect the battery charger to the battery while it's still in the car.  Then I would plug the charger into an extension cord (or series thereof) until such time as I could reach a plug with main power.  The risks of a car battery inside the house are significant and the benefits (convenience? hardly!) are small enough that they're difficult to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T19:57:44.263" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T19:57:44.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2542" CreationDate="2012-02-09T18:20:27.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. mine has been replaced 3-4 times over 230K miles. this is the typical symptom. another symptom can be loss of power. both because the engine is operating poorly because it doesn't know how much air is coming in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evolutionimport.com/OEM_TDI_Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor_For_A4_TDI_p/038%20906%20461c.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evolutionimport.com/OEM_TDI_Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor_For_A4_TDI_p/038%20906%20461c.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/maf-faq-tdi.htm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1498" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T18:20:27.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2808" CreationDate="2012-02-09T18:35:57.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, yes, it's possible because it happened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, your rotors aren't made of diamond.  Worse, they're spinning rapidly and the brake pads are pressed into the disk with tremendous force.  As a result, if you have the bad luck to get a particularly robust stone, nail or other debris in under the pad, it will machine away the rotor as it spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the remaining noise, you might want to inspect your rotor after it has had a chance to cool.  Can you still feel a groove in the metal?  Or is it possible that there is still some debris or a rough spot in the pad?  If it's just the pad, you should notice the sound fading over time as the pad abrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T18:35:57.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-09T21:09:17.127" Score="6" ViewCount="77072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hard time finding when my car battery was produced - can't find any defintive information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is Bosch Silver with the following data printed: &lt;code&gt;5EN&lt;/code&gt; in huge letters and two rows of digits and numbers. The upper row reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12V 55Ah 420 A(EN)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the lower row reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;555 065 042   0 093 S55 51T &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The embossed letters in the upper right corner read &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;G5B6882230170&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that data how do I find when the battery was produced? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T21:49:26.587" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T08:09:09.653" Title="How do I know when a car battery was produced?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2012-02-10T03:34:38.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is right: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allpar.com/fix/batteries.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battery Date Codes&lt;/a&gt;, it's out dated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The code is a string of letters numbers, but all the real information&#xA;  you need is in the first two characters. Usually, the code starts with&#xA;  a letter that corresponds with the month--'A' for January through 'L'&#xA;  for December (some manufacturer's codes omit 'I'; for them, 'M'&#xA;  indicates December). The second character of the code is a numeral&#xA;  that stands for the year. Thus, a code starting 'A2' indicates that&#xA;  the battery was shipped in January 1992; 'B2' indicates February 1992,&#xA;  and so on. (Delco reverses the letter and the number; a Delco code&#xA;  starting with '2C' indicates the battery was shipped in March 1992.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second source, which might be better: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/content/resources/pdf/How_old_is_your_battery.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How old is your customer's battery?&lt;/a&gt; (It's a pdf)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check both to see if they have what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T03:34:38.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2819" CreationDate="2012-02-10T19:18:03.057" Score="4" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I heard the guy at the store said 7 miles, but it could have been 7 minutes. What is average? I live about 4 miles from work and it takes around 10-12 minutes to get there depending on the stop lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="45394" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T03:50:41.227" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T03:50:41.227" Title="How long do you need to drive to recharge and offset the power it took to start?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2818" CreationDate="2012-02-10T19:53:16.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's too many variables to come up with any one particular number.  It can't be too very long, what with cars that shut themselves off and then restart at each traffic light.  :-)  Also, note that today's alternators are MUCH more efficient at idle RPMs than the generators of years ago (some of which would discharge rather than charge at idle).  I suspect that the real number is somewhere in the range of double digit seconds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T19:53:16.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2821" CreationDate="2012-02-11T17:33:19.913" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an image of a particular part on my '96 Honda Prelude and I have no idea what it is. It's connected to the power steering and is some kind of sensor. Anyone have any insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhPsG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1505" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T18:13:01.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T17:28:38.793" Title="Can anyone identify this part on a '96 Honda Prelude?" Tags="|honda|part-identification|power-steering|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2820" CreationDate="2012-02-11T18:21:05.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not positive from the picture but if that is screwed into the steering rack it's the Front sub-steering angle sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's in a hose which seems more likely to me it's the power steering pressure switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictured below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAqr9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Power-Steering-Pressure-Switch/_/N-8oxqd?filterByKeyWord=SW1898&amp;amp;fromString=search&amp;amp;isSearchByPartNumber=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Autozone site for part&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power steering pressure switch reports power steering high pressures to the on-board computer When not replaced, engine may die during hard turns at idle and check engine light may illuminate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T18:30:55.613" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T18:30:55.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2823" CreationDate="2012-02-11T22:58:19.417" Score="1" ViewCount="4190" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the way to work Thursday morning, the clutch pedal sanpped to the floor when I pressed it, and it stayed there.  It was still in gear, and I was able to limp to a parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked under the dash, and the pushrod that goes through the firewall was disconnected from the piece connecting to the pedal. Below is a picture of what the metal pushrod looks like resting on top of the connector:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7gSC2NCGnKU/TzQXErAIicI/AAAAAAAACLY/qBNkY5LjLX4/s720/2012-02-09_10-52-40_261.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valid XHTML&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nwTX4bPf4M4/TzQXIS7_JJI/AAAAAAAACLk/hP2L_7v9ffg/s720/2012-02-09_10-52-55_196.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valid XHTML&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a plastic piece that connects the two together.  Either I'm installing it incorrectly, or it's just a piece of junk.  Below is a photo of what the plastic piece looks like, and what it looks like when it's connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Photo Coming soon!&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Photo Coming soon!&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm posting this is because, on the way home from work Friday, I heard a &quot;snap&quot; when pressing the clutch pedal.  It still worked, but when I looked under the dash today, I could see that the plastic piece is once again broken, and a part of the bottom of the plastic piece is missing.  I'm lucky I made it home, because I could remove the connection with absolutely 0 effort. It was literally just resting in place, and it's amazing I made it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this piece keep breaking, and is there a much more robust method for connecting these components so that I can rely on this vehicle as a daily driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T23:23:35.680" Title="Broken Clutch Linkage Under Dash on 1987 Ford F150 4x4" Tags="|ford|clutch|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2822" CreationDate="2012-02-12T04:07:55.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63476&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; describes a similar problem on a different model year.  That said, the symptoms sound strikingly familiar (from the first post in that thread):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be&#xA;  round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the&#xA;  hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come out to be&#xA;  repaired or replaced. The new plastic bushing needs that bracket there&#xA;  for support and if it's installed into that worn out hole, you'll be&#xA;  replacing the bushing again in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the path through the firewall (from the following post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I&#xA;  recently had the well known clutch push rod bushing failure for about&#xA;  the third time. You know the one where the push rod jumps off the&#xA;  linkage unexpectedly and the pedal slams to the floor.   Well, this&#xA;  time a new bushing didn't stop the problems and I finally discovered&#xA;  that there was a bit of deflection in the main horizontal clutch tube.&#xA;  The plastic bushings on this cross tube (that the pedals pivot on) had&#xA;  to be worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at your pictures, I would think that the second is more likely.  If that rod has extra play in a lateral direction (so it isn't always pulling straight), it's going to put a lot of extra stress on the little plastic clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T04:07:55.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2012-02-13T04:35:26.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the clunking noise (I'm hearing something similar in my rear), but the other sound you're describing sounds very much like your exhaust is blowing. Probably just a small hole now, I'd work my way from the back of the car and check for serious rust in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T04:35:26.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2868" CreationDate="2012-02-13T20:25:20.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my vehicle in for a front end alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They told me all of my shocks were bad, causing all of the problems, and that they would not be able to align the front end with those bad shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent $600 updating shocks on my 1994 Nissan truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 control arm bushings, installed $180&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Montroe SensaTrac shocks, installed $320&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front end alignment and supplies $90&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does ride better, but there is still an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the vehicle at speed (50 MPH or greater), I have to keep a bit of pressure on the steering wheel. Also, corrections I make to the steering while turning cause the truck to turn much sharper than I feel a vehicle should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really want to take the truck back to the shop again without having some kind of clue what is wrong with it, least I wind up spending another $800 in something I may or may not need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this kind of steering issue sound like a common problem associated with something? If so, what is a realistic price to expect to pay to have something like that fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:09:59.303" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:09:59.303" Title="Front End Alignments" Tags="|tires|maintenance|nissan|suspension|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2827" CreationDate="2012-02-13T21:32:25.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tires can make a big difference in how a vehicle steers, especially a truck. I was just talking to a friend who had a similar issue due to the fact that he had wrong tires installed on his truck (they were only rated for lighter trucks). I would check the pressure and also the type of tires you have on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T21:32:25.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2827" CreationDate="2012-02-13T21:33:49.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing shocks on a 1994 vehicle sounds fairly reasonable (assuming that they were the original shocks).  I tend to agree with the alignment shop that you needed to replace those before doing anything else.  I replaced my wife's struts not too long ago and one was completely collapsed - on her car, that has a distinct effect on the camber of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of where you are now, I suspect that your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;toe&lt;/a&gt; on the front wheels is distinctly off, resulting in that constant pressure on the wheel.  Handily, the toe is something that you can both easily examine and change yourself (especially since you have a truck with some ground clearance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple check of you current toe settings goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the vehicle on the most level surface that you can find.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the steering wheel to perfectly straight (seriously - tie a bubble level onto the wheel if you have to).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the same distinct feature on the front side of both of your front tires.  An easily spotted feature is the inner edge of the inner rain groove on your tires.  Write this distance down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat on the back side of your tires - make sure that you are measuring the distance between the same feature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On most passenger vehicles, you'll want the toe on the front end to be zero: those two distances should be equal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video provides an example of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8qFjAB67vk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;checking and adjusting toe&lt;/a&gt; using the string method.  It's more complicated to set up, though not terribly difficult and is quite a bit more accurate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T21:33:49.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2842" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:33:05.767" Score="5" ViewCount="11194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know the advantages and disadvantages of rear wheel drive and front wheel drive cars&#xA;I know that cars with FWD can't drift. Are there any other advantages or disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T16:22:53.070" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T00:18:01.027" Title="RWD vs FWD advantages and disadvantages" Tags="|drivetrain|rwd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-14T16:33:26.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2833" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:38:49.100" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find list of best cars for drifting (cheep and with left wheel), Can anyone please suggest me some cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T13:57:18.063" Title="Best cars for drifting" Tags="|engine|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-02-14T16:30:08.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2847" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:47:11.707" Score="1" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an LSD for BWM. Can anyone give me an link to sale of this where I can find LSD for BWM M3 E46 / E36, or BWM E46 330i?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T13:45:08.690" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T14:38:22.557" Title="LSD on BMW M3 or 330ci E46" Tags="|bmw|lsd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2831" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:55:20.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thinks it's related on your motivation and why you want car for drifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the best solution is &lt;strong&gt;Nissan Silvia S15&lt;/strong&gt;, it's powerful and flexible car. Adding some suspensions and other parts will allow you to win any race you want. If you are good racer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BMW M3 (E46)&lt;/strong&gt; is good one too. But remember, at first learn to leave your not such a powerful car at the ground and then think about Silvia or E36. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1513" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T13:55:20.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2831" CreationDate="2012-02-14T13:57:18.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is top 10, if ignore the left whell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+(there is a left wheel version)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan 350Z +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skyline R34 GT-T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan Silvia S13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan Silvia S14 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bmw M3 E30 Mazda +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RX-7 (FD3S) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan 180SX/200SX +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan Silvia S15 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bmw M3 E46 +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toyota Altezza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T13:57:18.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2836" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:12:09.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1711" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:22:30.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please also note that the entry code &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; be reprogrammed. It is more-or-less &lt;code&gt;burned&lt;/code&gt; into the module. This is true of all fords.  This module is called a &lt;code&gt;GEM&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;RAP&lt;/code&gt;, depending on your model and vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GEM - Generic Electronics Module.&#xA;RAP - Remote AntiTheft Personality &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to change the code, you have to replace this module to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1515" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:22:30.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:41:42.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please also note that the entry code &lt;code&gt;cannot&lt;/code&gt; be reprogrammed. It is more-or-less &lt;code&gt;burned&lt;/code&gt; into the module. This is true of all fords.  This module is called a &lt;code&gt;GEM&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;RAP&lt;/code&gt;, depending on your model and vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GEM - Generic Electronics Module&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RAP - Remote AntiTheft Personality &#xA;SJB - Smart Junction Box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early 90's fords, anti-theft and Keyless entry was a feature.  The RAP was created to augment a vehicle model with existing electric locks.  This is kind of like what aftermarket Keyless entry / Alarms modules were.  You won't find RAPs in them much more. This lead the way to GEM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A GEM is like an engine management computer for all the non-power-train systems in the car.  It does communicate with the power-train system.   A GEM controls the Lights (autolamps), wipers, rear window/mirror defrosters. It control the Locks, and the keyless systems too now.  This module is what would need to be-replaced if you wished to change the Keyless entry code. This has also been replaced in later-models with the SJB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SJB is marriage of the GEM with the internal Fuse panel in to one, inseparable unit. &#xA;As, always there are exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative. If you merely wish to disable the keypad, that is also a possibility.  These, use a combination of 8 - 6 wires to send the key presses to the GEM/RAP.  An inclined DIYer can examine the wiring charts available on AutoZone's Member site.  This would involve cutting of one or two wires to disable the keypad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1515" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:41:42.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2830" CreationDate="2012-02-14T16:30:41.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both methods of drive have their advantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWD is generally cheaper to build, and gives more space inside the vehicle (as there is no need for a transmission tunnel). It is also generally easier for a less skilled driver to control - Most ordinary people don't want to need to learn how to drift or control a slide. On the other hand, smaller FWD cars can be at risk of snap lift-off oversteer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RWD on the other hand is simpler, and can be argued to give better balance and control near the limit, as the front wheels aren't being asked to both drive and steer, which puts more demands on the limited amount of grip available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4WD has more grip than either, and is invaluable for getting out of slippery conditions, but is more complicated and expensive to make, and tends to result in worse fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T16:30:41.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2844" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:43:44.133" Score="1" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the LSD on a 1995 (NA series) MX-5. The original diff was a viscous LSD, and over time has deteriorated as I hear they do. It is now essentially an open diff, if I lift one wheel off the ground it seems to apply torque only to the lifted wheel, and I would like to replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen that there are a few different types of diffs available, and of these they come in  1, 1.5 and 2 way varieties. The 2 way diffs seems to be more expensive in general, and I would like to know in what instances will having a 2 way over a 1.5 way be an advantage? 2 way to 1 way? In what applications would having a 2 way be a disadvantage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T18:39:00.503" Title="Replacing a LSD, what needs to be considered between 1, 1.5, 2 way?" Tags="|drivetrain|rear-differential|lsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2830" CreationDate="2012-02-14T20:31:26.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To this question, there are quite a few perspectives to answer the question from. For example, advantages to the vehicle manufacturer of using transmission + engine types that are already developed and have passed emissions (Notice that manufacturers seem to use variants of the same engine for multiple vehicles) or are lower cost, may not include any advantages or disadvantages this causes the vehicle mechanics such as access to areas in the engine bay. The same can be said about the existence of different trade offs from the consumer's perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stay on topic, lets look at this from the driver's perspective and ignore the placement of the engine, relative the to the drive wheels[This will have a profound effect on the vehicle as well]. As was pointed out in your original question, the handling characteristics of a vehicle will be affected by which wheels are applying force to the road. To help visualize the differences, let us look at 3 different scenarios, vehicle is accelerating, vehicle is keeping constant speed, and vehicle is decelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle Accelerating:&#xA;While accelerating, the weight of your vehicle is is being shifted to the rear of the vehicle. This effectively reduces the maximum amount of traction available to the front wheels and increases the amount available to the rear wheels. Regardless of your vehicles drive type, there is less traction to change the direction of your car with the front wheels than there would be while maintaining constant velocity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Drive - Because of the weight transfer to the rear, away from the drive wheels, less torque can be applied to the road before the wheels break and begin to spin. In theory this should decrease the the peak acceleration possible for a vehicle under hard acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Drive - Because the weight is transferred to the rear, onto the drive wheels, more torque can be applied to the wheels before they break and begin to spin. This should increase the peak acceleration possible for a vehicle under hard acceleration. As an interesting sidenote to consider, in a rear drive car at in a the turn, the best way to keep the rear end from sliding out is to shift weight to the rear that requires the driver gently use the accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle Decelerating:&#xA;The opposite can be said about weight transfer during deceleration. The weight should shift to the front of the vehicle, increasing the the maximum traction available to the front wheels. This will increase the amount of traction available to turn the vehicle using the front wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Drive - With more traction available at the front, more torque can be applied before the drive wheels begin to slip. So while decelerating, a Front Drive car will be more able to punch the gas and keep traction on the drive wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Drive - With Less traction available in the rear, less torque can be applied to the drive wheels before they begin to slip. This slipping of the rear wheels outwards is often called oversteer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle at Constant Velocity:&#xA;While at constant velocity, the weight of the car should be at it equilibrium state and the base amount of traction should be available at all 4 wheels. Once additional power is applied, or taken away, one of the other two states apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very simple explanation that only covers a portion of what could be with this question. Here are a few other questions that might be good to consider. I am sure that others here can add additional good questions to ask as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the trade offs of each type of engine layout?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_layout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_layout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Load Transfer affect vehicle performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1516" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T20:31:26.610" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-14T20:31:26.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3568" CreationDate="2012-02-15T08:21:57.627" Score="7" ViewCount="7114" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car:&lt;/strong&gt; Polo TDI 2004 1.4 with 190,000 km (118,060 miles) on the clock. While&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue:&lt;/strong&gt;  driving it intermittently (distance/time are not factors it seems) it starts to spew black/dark grey smoke and all power is lost (feels like the turbo has turned off). If I turn the car off and immediately turn it on, it will not start - sounds very much like when it isn't turning over if the battery is dead. If I leave it for a few minutes I can start it without a problem and it drives fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factors:&lt;/strong&gt; Distance &amp;amp; time are not a factor, as I can sometimes get further and sometimes not before it starts happening. It seems more likely to happen in traffic situations, so stop/start driving. There are NO engine warning lights and the heat indicator is stable in the middle (so not over heating according to the indicator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History:&lt;/strong&gt; Turbo was replaced 40,000km (24,854 miles) ago and hasn't had an issue at all. Recently had some electrical issues with the fuses and cooling fan not working. Both of those are resolved, however before they did, the car did over heat twice and damaged a pipe leading to the turbo which caused the turbo to lose pressure. That pipe has also been fixed and a everything in the turbo is 100% when the pressure tests were done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the cause can be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1517" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T13:44:48.953" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T16:11:23.467" Title="Polo TDI 2004 - intermittent power, smoke, turbo issue" Tags="|engine|vw|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2841" CreationDate="2012-02-15T18:39:00.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, as a fellow NA MX5 owner I would simply replace the diff with a Torsen LSD out of an NA 1.8 MX5 and be done with it. It's the most cost effective swap I'm aware of if you actually do need an LSD. Plus it's a fairly strong LSD anyway so unless you're planning to put silly power through it, it should last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the difference between the LSD types you list are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 way locks only on acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.5 way lock on acceleration and partially on deceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 way locks fully on both acceleration and deceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a track only car I'd consider a 1.5 way LSD, or a 1.5 way/2 way for a drift car. But keep in mind that most of these are clutch type LSDs so they do need maintenance like clutch adjustments that the OEM torsen doesn't need. They also need setting up by someone who knows what they're doing before you can make good use of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T18:39:00.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-15T21:21:34.480" Score="4" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;My aftermarket headlights that I just purchased have had problems with condensation for some time now.  All the rubber covers around where the bulbs are place are sealed tight and installed correctly.  I did notice the small &quot;vents&quot; which were covered with what looks like some sort of venting patch.  Its just a piece of fabric and seems to not be the tightest seal.  What would be the best way to re-patch these vents with something more water-tight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference I have a 2001 Impala.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T22:07:27.693" Title="Best way to cover up the vents on a headlight that leak?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2845" CreationDate="2012-02-15T22:41:53.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two designs vented and non-vented. In the vented design the vents actually help prevent the condensation. Make sure they are clear, you may even have to add additional holes to create more venting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/how-to-prevent-foggy-headlights&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;See this article for more information&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T22:41:53.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2012-02-16T15:32:35.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'M's should come with an LSD from the factory, so you should be able to find a used one from a specialist BMW parts supplier. I'd also think that the usual manufacturers of LSD have one that would fit, but they're most likely not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T15:32:35.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T18:08:27.257" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Tracker's rear brake cylinder blew.  The mechanic said that among the parts needed was something I can't remember the name of.  It was bent and therefore comprimised.  He said it is not easy to locate in the parts stores.  It looks almost like a wrench but is not the spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what the name of it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1524" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:55:14.883" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:55:50.057" Title="Part of rear brakes for 2000 Tracker" Tags="|brakes|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1874" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:45:18.500" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was indeed the catalytic converter (the EX does not have a pre-cat).  After replacing it, the downstream sensor graph spends most of its time above 0.5 V, as it should if the converter is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started getting this error code again, a little over a year after replacing the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also finally found a guide on how to read these graphs, from a reliable source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420/B971100.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acura ServiceNews: Diagnosing Catalytic&#xA;Converter DTCs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should see these voltage readings from the oxygen sensors on a healthy converter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cruising speed, steady throttle: About 0.6 to 0.8 volts at HO₂S Sensor 2 (the heated oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;During deceleration or fuel cut: 0 volts at HO₂S Sensor 1 (the heated oxygen sensor&#xA;  upstream of the catalytic converter), and 0 volts at the HO₂S Sensor 2. (The 0 voltage is due to no combustion and lots of oxygen in the exhaust.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Throttle opening after deceleration: A gradual rise to 0.8 volts at HO₂S Sensor 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came on again constantly.  Another pending code popped up for a misfire.  We replaced the spark plugs which were dirty-looking, and did a compression check and changed the oil.  The lights all went out and haven't come back on, and it starts much more easily.  So it looks like it's just an old car and the rings are leaking a bit and burning oil and getting the spark plugs cruddy and that's why the P0420 comes on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came back on again.  ಠ_ಠ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T15:22:49.040" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T15:22:49.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:49:30.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many reasons &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to charge a car's starter battery in a living space:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;battery acid on your clothes when you carry it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hydrogen buildup that could &lt;strong&gt;explode&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you're going to use an all-metal wrench to remove the battery cables, which makes it easily to accidentally create a &lt;strong&gt;short circuit&lt;/strong&gt; on a device designed to dump a lot of amps quickly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to deal with this problem is to jump-start the car and then drive to recharge the battery. You don't have to remove the battery, or risk hydrogen buildup indoors, or get battery acid on your clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your deeply-drained starter battery is probably sulfated now. It won't be able to hold as much charge, and so won't be able to put out as much cranking current. It's worse when it's cold, so you may find it won't start again the next really cold morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to an auto parts place once it's fully charged and they'll test it. The result will be in CCA (cold cranking amps). They can advise you whether you should replace the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different types of chargers out there. Some are pretty dumb, sending a fixed voltage to battery over time. That will do the job of charging up a dead battery, but if you leave it on the charger too long, it can boil the battery fluid. Some even have the ability to supply a lot of amps, so they can be used to jump-start a car if you don't have another car handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smarter chargers have a circuit that moderates the output over time, to bulk-charge the first 80%, and then gently bring it up to full charge, which is something lead-acid batteries like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even smarter chargers have a program to de-sulfate a battery, although it takes a long time. Your car would be out of commission in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep batteries topped off, a smart trickle charger like the Battery Tender is a good choice. I like these for vehicles that side idle a lot of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="26" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T20:02:40.880" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T20:02:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:16:51.340" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2006 Hyundai Elantra, and I just bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Nu75x8D2VFV/p_105KDR520/JVC-KD-R520.html#accessories-tab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; stereo. Upon installing it, learned that the hookup to my factory stereo is radically different from that of the new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;don't really have any electrical experience, and have never done anything like this before, so I'd really rather not have to splice the adapter that came with the new stereo to fit the old one (presumably with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000KL128S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. I'd really like to just buy an adapter that can bridge my car's hookup to the new stereo's port. Does anyone know of such a thing? The closes I've found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/CT20HY02-Hyundai-Accent-Coupe-Elantra-ISO-Stereo-Head-Unit-Harness-Adaptor-Lead-/160529684181?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&amp;amp;hash=item25605096d5#ht_1402wt_1139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, but looking at the picture, it doesn't look like it would fit into my new stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody confirm that (maybe I'm just missing something?), and if so, could you recommend where to find a proper adapter, such that I can just plug one end into my new stereo and the other into the cable coming out of my car? I really hope such a thing exists...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1527" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T12:49:41.170" Title="Elantra stereo adapter" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:44:50.880" Score="3" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hit a hole in the road the car stopped &amp;amp; now acts like it is out of gas.  Is there a reset somewhere for the gas, in case it was shut off some how as an emergency thing when I hit the hole. I looked in the trunk, not one there, looked in the book couldn't find it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1528" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:19:40.557" Title="1997 Geo Metro Stalled when I hit a hole in road and will not restart" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2012-02-16T21:53:34.457" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some jurisdictions (including my own), driving with a tyre looking like that is &lt;strong&gt;illegal&lt;/strong&gt;. There is a question about it on the driving test, and all such academic questions on the test are about things you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; do, lest you be found to be in charge of a dangerous vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T21:53:34.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2853" CreationDate="2012-02-16T22:34:38.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in your owners manual - it will be referred to as something equivalent to a fuel pump inertia switch.  I don't have a manual handy but the best candidate location that I've been able to find is on top of the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:34:38.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-17T03:29:19.657" Score="9" ViewCount="35739" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of installing high performance air filters (K&amp;amp;N,Green cotton,etc.) over original filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the changes/working occur internally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="12814" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T02:48:42.837" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T02:48:42.837" Title="What are the pros and cons of installing a high-performance air filter on a bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|air-intake|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2857" CreationDate="2012-02-17T09:15:29.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the main difference between a 'normal' stock filter over a high performance one is airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are designed to retain the filtering capability, but have superior airflow (design, materials, shape of filter internals etc) to allow more oxygen to the engine, which means you can get superior burn and greater output power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater airflow and improved filtering of particulates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T10:35:52.017" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T10:35:52.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2012-02-17T12:49:41.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new stereo should come with a cable that plugs in the back and ends in a pair of ISO sockets. These should then mate to the adaptor you linked from ebay (the two small rectangular plugs on the right-hand side of that picture), which in turn should mate to the car's existing wiring harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T12:49:41.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2869" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:43:20.860" Score="1" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently hooked my 2005 Audi A3 to VCDS after the engine management light came on and got the reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen various images on forums where people have taken off what appears to be a box containing cogs which have worn away resulting in the same error code. I am looking to locate this myself and check the flap is opening and closing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is, where can i find the 'flap' and secondly where can i find the motor that controls the 'flap' to check the teeth on the cogs have not worn away? Any help is appreciated. I have attached an image of my engine. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1feKG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T18:35:21.250" Title="Where to start with 'Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground'" Tags="|engine|audi|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2862" CreationDate="2012-02-17T21:22:28.920" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problems with one of my CV joints on my 1993 Acura. I read the repair manual and they suggest that actually fixing the joint itself is a pain and that most people should just buy a new axle shaft. Now, this car is kind of a beater so I don't want to spend too much money on it, and I have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. listen to the repair manual and buy a new axle shaft for somewhere around $60.&#xA;b. ignore the warning and get a CV joint boot kit for $10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has any of you done a CV joint overhaul? Is is worth $50 to just not have to worry about it, or is the manual exaggerating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T15:44:07.257" Title="CV Joint Overhaul - is it worth it?" Tags="|transmission|steering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2861" CreationDate="2012-02-17T21:43:01.270" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boot kit alone isn't going to be enough to overhaul the joint - you might need parts of the actual CV joint if the boots have been open to the elements long enough for dirt to get in there and turn the grease into grinding paste. If you're at that stage, buy an overhauled axle shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T21:43:01.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2857" CreationDate="2012-02-18T02:20:42.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the idea is to get more air into the engine using a less restrictive air filter. As an engine is basically an air pump, getting more oxygen and more fuel into the engine usually equals a bigger bang and thus hopefully more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in order to get a meaningful improvement using a performance air filter, the main restriction needs to be the air filter in the inlet tract &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the head and exhaust need to be able to cope with the increased airflow. If that's not the case you won't see any performance improvement. You should also tweak the mixture to deal with the additional airflow unless your bike has fuel injection with a lambda sensor and basically can enrich the mixture automatically. If you don't adjust the mixture and you get a meaningful increase in airflow, chances are that your engine will run lean at the top end and the bigger bang might be a piston's bid for freedom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage that doesn't have much to do with performance is that these filters are often washable so instead of throwing the paper filter away and buying a new one, you can clean (and usually re-oil) the filter. So in the long run it might work out cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T02:20:42.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2793" CreationDate="2012-02-18T17:29:15.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to let everyone know that I replaced the TPS and the tracc off problem disapared, I'm only left with the catalyst code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1485" LastEditorUserId="1485" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T18:02:14.847" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T18:02:14.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-18T18:45:17.067" Score="2" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;The body was repaired after a front-end accident, but the headlights seem to be pointed down too much, and the illuminate the road in front of the car, but not that far out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two hex sockets (white circles below) that I can turn, but they don't seem to change the angle of the headlights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few references online that say there's a vertical and sometimes a horizontal adjustment screw, but I can't seem to find it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/453C5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Headlight mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="702" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T18:22:54.253" Title="How do you aim the headlights in a 2001 Saturn LS1?" Tags="|maintenance|headlight|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2861" CreationDate="2012-02-18T23:47:30.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can never monitor the axle boots frequently enough.  If you catch the boot leaking grease before it splits, the $10 solution will work.  If it is knocking and giving you trouble before you notice the direct opening to road grit, water and everything else, @Timo has the right solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1415" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T23:47:30.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2827" CreationDate="2012-02-19T16:57:22.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to pull up the Service Manual in order to get the answer to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just so happens that my truck is the less common Heavy Duty D21 Hardbody Nissan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the mechanic at the alignment shop performed the front end alignment on my truck, he used the settings for the standard D21 Hardbody Nissan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the correct settings for my truck fixed the front end problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T16:57:22.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2860" CreationDate="2012-02-19T18:35:21.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After hunting around I found the Audi service manual for the A3 2004 and greater. I found it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://websunrise.org/manuals/auto/audi/2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Audi service workshop manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 13 shows a disassembled engine with the motor for the intake manifold clearly labelled. I'm sure similar vehicle makes and models will have these service manuals somewhere and im sure this will help me locate other potentially problematic areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps someone else!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T18:35:21.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2875" CreationDate="2012-02-19T18:35:50.403" Score="3" ViewCount="28583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 183,000 miles. Over the last couple of days it has developed a problem where when accelerating it will lose all engine power for about 5 seconds (rpms drop and and then regain power with a short burst of acceleration). It feels like it's running out of gas. I already replaced the air filter and fuel filter, those needed to be replaced anyway, but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the power loss, it in general feels sluggish, like I'm constantly towing something. No check engine light. Any suggestions of things to check or other symptoms that I could look for that would help diagnose it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T13:29:31.483" Title="1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Power Loss" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2870" CreationDate="2012-02-20T07:14:51.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does you engine have any vacuum leaks? They would affect your lower RPM power, and as soon as you lose that vacuum, the problem would seem to disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T07:14:51.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2012-02-20T07:18:15.470" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always a couple of adjustment screws, and this link seems to describe it fairly throughly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How do you properly aim headlights?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T07:18:15.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2012-02-20T08:21:28.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Bentley manual (ISBN 0-8376-0366-8), page 17-1, tighten the oil pan bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft*lb), and the drain plug to 30 Nm (22 ft*lb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as others have mentioned, there is no specific prescribed sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T08:21:28.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2012-02-20T08:39:35.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I've found to this apparently common break, is not to replace the factory part at all, but instead to apply the 3rd party &lt;a href=&quot;http://jettatrunk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jetta Trunk Fix Kit&lt;/a&gt; 3rd-party fix (US$40).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit comes with a piece that fits over the existing (broken) piece, along with a brace that is easily installed using just a screwdriver, making it not only cheaper than replacing with an OEM part, but also much easier.  It is also allegedly stronger than the OEM part (and from my observation of the broken part, and the replacement fix-it kit, I believe this claim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T19:34:18.673" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T19:34:18.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2870" CreationDate="2012-02-20T15:49:50.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4.0L is generally a very robust engine so I think the problem is with the ancillaries. Here's what I would look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pressure. If the car feels like you're running out of gas, it might be that the fuel pump isn't supplying enough fuel or there's another problem with the fuel system like a leaking injector. Has the fuel mileage been suffering lately?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the ignition components like the distributor rotor and cap if it still has a distributor, leads and spark plugs. Especially the latter if they have more than 10k miles on them, plus they're the cheapest part to change :).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As PetroEkos suggested, check for vacuum leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the emissions equipment, you might want to change the PCV valve if it hasn't been changed recently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it runs rough when warming up and runs a lot better when it's up to operating temperature, I would check if all the ECU temperature sensors are working as expected. If the ECU thinks that the engine is warmer than it actually is, it'll inject less fuel than it needs during warmup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T16:51:52.540" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T16:51:52.540" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-20T17:30:34.047" Score="0" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;intermitent won't start problem. Might start when I turn key a couple extra times or a 1000 times, til my fingers are sore. Sometimes I have to leave it and come back later, but sometimes I'm a ways from home. Just doesn't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1535" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T10:31:44.657" Title="'97 dodge grand caravan won't start - sometimes" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2876" CreationDate="2012-02-20T18:43:14.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need more info, define &quot;won't start&quot;...  Does it crank, but not fire?  No cranking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common generic (I don't know anything specific about Dodge Grand Caravans) causes include: Bad coil, power transistor/ignitor, ignition switch, broken ground...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T18:43:14.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2880" CreationDate="2012-02-20T23:08:07.537" Score="3" ViewCount="6923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Toyota Camry and the O2 sensor near the front of the car is bad (this is confirmed by the code that the computer has returned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I'm not particularly knowledgable about cars (though I'm learning as I go), I'm comfortable working on them given enough information on what exactly I need to do . In this case, I'd like to know the proper hardware and procedures for replacing the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What O2 sensor do you recommend for replacing the bad unit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's my understanding that some sensors can be easily replaced; others may require a bit of soldering. I'd prefer the former, but I'm also open to the best suggestions you guys have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also understand that, after replacing the sensor, I should disconnect the battery to clear the computer, correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to do this as cost effectively as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T14:26:38.340" Title="How do I repair the O2 sensor in a 2001 Toyota Camry?" Tags="|toyota|replace|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2878" CreationDate="2012-02-21T00:15:35.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt your sensor requires soldering. I would recommend always going with OEM parts, as they ensure the values the sensor sends are accurate. Next, verify which sensor it is as some cars have 4 and are divided into banks (sides). The code should say which side you are looking at. The sensor itself might need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Oxygen-Sensor-Socket/_/N-264b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special socket&lt;/a&gt;, but that is not necessarily the case for all cars. If you can do it properly with a wrench, then use that. I would recommend you allow the motor to cool, as they are usually located in the hottest part of the engine, and you will get burned. They have a connector, and plug into the exhaust or header. Ensure to use the anti-seize that will likely be packaged with your replacement part, and torque as instructed. A Haynes or Chilton manual should walk you through this easily, and many other easy to do procedures. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a side note, it is not always the sensor that goes bad. Sensors read the mixture and efficiency of your combustion, and can trigger a code if you are running rich/lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:15:35.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2603" CreationDate="2012-02-21T00:25:55.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was there any damage to the magnetic clutch? If the clutch was damaged, it could be the cause for the A/C compressor not working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:25:55.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2012-02-21T09:25:58.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds most likely to be a fault in the switch in the indicator stalk - normally you have a physical linkage which keeps the turn indicator flashing while you turn a corner, then it releases as the steering wheel straightens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine a couple of ways this could fail and allow the spring in that mechanical return to perhaps trigger the right signal. Realistically, this will mean a replacement of the indicator switching components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked it in a straight line and on corners to see if it is linked with steering wheel position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T09:25:58.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2903" CreationDate="2012-02-21T19:37:34.547" Score="6" ViewCount="3507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering a hyprid, particularly Prius. I wanted to know what sort of maintenance costs are associated with a hybrid (or Prius) - as compared to a gasoline equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery life (when does it have to be changed? Km? years?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schedule maintenance costs (amount, frequency)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other significant costs and when does it come due?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any Tips or things I should consider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effect cold weather (upto -10C) has on battery? significant? or immaterial?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on buying it new and probably keeping it for 10 or so years at least, possibly longer (~150k estimated over 10 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1538" LastEditorUserId="1538" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T18:36:37.767" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T11:58:26.913" Title="Prius - Maintenance costs over lifetime [0k - 200k]" Tags="|toyota|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-22T10:56:01.267" Score="1" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it's possible technically but I would like to know what the options are for engine replacements. The 4 cyl engine in my Ute is past its life expectancy. I'm interested to know if a new modern engine could be fitted and if so which one? Failing that would it be possible to replace the 4 cyl engine with the 6 cyl engine that they also put in some versions of this truck?&#xA;I know it is probably better to just buy a newer truck but I've done a lot of custom work on this truck and if possible I'd prefer to keep it and put in a more reliable engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current engine is a 4G54.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastEditorUserId="769" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T20:55:38.653" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T20:55:38.653" Title="Engine and gearbox replacement for 1993 Mitsubishi Triton 4x4" Tags="|engine|4wd|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2012-02-22T12:15:26.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all sure how much of this is true but info I so far know and go by,&#xA;DOT 4 has a higher boiling point and also has borate esters.&#xA;DOT 5 is silicone based&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the dry boiling point minimum as I know of;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DOT 3,   205 C  (401 F)&#xA;DOT 4,   230 C  (446 F)&#xA;DOT 5,   260 C  (500 F)&#xA;DOT 5.1, 270 C  (518 F)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Australia DOT 3 is supposed to have min 230 C boiling point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I learned DOT 2 was supposed to be drum brakes then the introduction of front disk brakes DOT 3, and introduction of all wheel disks DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 late abs but what also happened is Toyota went back to DOT 3 possibly because of viscosity but haven't researched it yet exactly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think so far the army is one of few using DOT 5 but are thinking of going back to DOT 3. This I can't back up yet so don't take my word for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having stated this for example the nulon DOT 3 has a boiling point of 260 C and states to not have adverse effect on physical properties of rubber cups and O rings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a scientist and some manufacturers can and do make better fluids but I also found over time one will be good for a while then go slack on product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I did get frustrated when I had to diagnose a fault on a car which had front vibration at 70kmh-80kmh then slightly less at 90-100. I did all usual check wheel alignment, balance tyres,check steering rack, replace two lower ball joints, then overhaul calipers and finally found one cup swelled up in a master cylinder and would block a hole which would maintain pressure on front calipers causing front wheels to fight left each other. The fluid just came due for a flush and was DOT 4 and I'm aware it's also true it can depend on car use and storage for fluid to need earlier flush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I did a concentric clutch conversion on a car from ram clutches and ram clutch recommended only DOT 3 stating other brake fluids can affect the rubber components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my conclusion is use the recommended DOT but if necessary can mix DOT 3 and 4 only if last choice but then flush properly with correct fluid with two people not just gravity bleed because this stirs up everything in slaves and calipers and gives better indication when old fluid is flushed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1541" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T06:11:51.533" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T06:11:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2012-02-22T13:09:25.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with spending time and money to do interesting things to old vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you have the model with the 4g64 engine?  If so, why not do another 4g64?  It's still being used on modern vehicles, you may not have too much work to do to fit a current generation 4g64 into your old vehicle.  Might be a difference in crank/cam angle sensor and possibly knock sensors, but since the 4g64 is a popular base for building race engines for a few platforms, conversion parts are available to make the signals compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T13:09:25.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2889" CreationDate="2012-02-22T15:54:01.800" Score="3" ViewCount="3965" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the day I park my car in a surface lot, which makes it vulnerable to the seagulls' refuse attacks.  After baking under the Sun all day, their droppings becomes harder than cement and impossible to remove without damaging the paint finish.  Even taking the vehicle through the car-wash multiple times doesn't completely remove the stuff!  How can I remove seagull droppings from my car without damaging the paint finish?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:46:50.207" Title="How to Get Seagull Dropping Off of Vehicle Without Ruining Finish" Tags="|paint|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2888" CreationDate="2012-02-22T16:37:56.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very nice summary of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40155-How-to-safely-remove-a-dried-bird-dropping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;straight-forward procedure&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take a clean microfiber polishing cloth, fold it four ways to create a&#xA;  thick, plush wiping cloth. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Next, spray one side with your favorite&#xA;  spray detailer, the idea is to hyper-lubricate the entire face of one&#xA;  side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Next place it onto the dried bird dropping. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wet the cloth with&#xA;  water until the entire cloth is saturated but not to the point where&#xA;  water is running down the hood. The idea is to have plenty of water&#xA;  present to soak into the dried bird dropping. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Let the wet cloth stand&#xA;  on the dried bird dropping for 5-10 minutes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Now, carefully enclose&#xA;  the wet-microfiber around the bird dropping using your hand and&#xA;  fingers , you're trying to carefully bunch-up the microfiber and then&#xA;  LIFT the bird dropping off the paint. Don't simply wipe the bird&#xA;  dropping over the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T16:37:56.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2888" CreationDate="2012-02-22T17:13:29.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In conjunction with @Bob's answer, for next time, prevention is even better than cure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't park undercover, our use a cover on your car, invest some time and money in applying a good polish and wax when you wash your car.  Turtle wax will help mess slide off, even after baking in the sun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T17:13:29.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-22T18:36:35.440" Score="21" ViewCount="42405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda RX-8 (with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wankel_engine&quot;&gt;Wankel rotary engine&lt;/a&gt;).  Mazda advises North American owners to use 5W-20 oil.  The engine was just replaced 200 miles ago by the dealer so it currently has 5W-20 in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the large number of engine failures, although the exact cause is under dispute, many owners have come to agree that Mazda most likely advises 5W-20 oil for higher gas mileage and not for engine protection.  They suggest a thicker oil such as 5W-30 is better protection for high RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RX-8 burns oil at a pretty fast rate; I will be adding a quart of oil in another 500-1000 miles. &lt;strong&gt;Should I wait to switch to 5W-30 when I change my oil, or is it OK to refill with 5W-30 (and mix with the existing oil)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1544" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T01:13:43.550" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T04:04:03.280" Title="Is it OK to mix oil of different viscosity in a Wankel engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2893" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:06:29.627" Score="2" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Renault Clio RL Panache (1997) has been outside in the cold for a while, and needs a jump start to get the battery charged again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, I tried to get the bonnet open a few weeks ago when it was very icy locally, and the bonnet consequently would not open. However, the catch &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; &quot;fire&quot;, such that even though the ice has long gone, the release lever still won't open the bonnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1546" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T13:36:18.450" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:36:18.450" Title="How can I open a latched bonnet in a 1997 Renault Clio?" Tags="|maintenance|hood|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2892" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:35:43.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it from the description that the release lever now feels loose, i.e. there is no tension on the cable? We can therefore assume that the mechanism has partly released, but due to the ice did not spring up onto the catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried getting a couple of fingers under the edge of the bonnet and giving it a sharp tug upwards? You could also try getting it to re-latch - place both hands directly over the latch and push down hard, you may hear a click as it re-engages, which should hopefully allow you to release it normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it one of the front-hinged bonnets, or a newer rear-hinged one? I forget when they changed over...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:35:43.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:38:44.687" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T13:38:44.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:38:44.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:38:44.687" Score="0" Body="French Carmaker best known for the Clio and Megane models, and Formula One team" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T13:51:12.457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:51:12.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:40:54.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T13:40:54.280" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:40:54.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:40:54.280" Score="0" Body="Popular European Supermini produced by French carmaker Renault" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T13:51:08.447" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T13:51:08.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2012-02-23T22:22:50.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drain screws for the four carberetors are located at the bottom, outboard side of each carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drain screws are item #23 in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alpha-sports.com/supr/1993%20GSXR1100/08.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;1993 GSXR1100 carburetor parts diagram&quot;&gt;parts diagram&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drain them by removing the side covers, placing a rag underneath the carburetor and with a reasonably long Phillips screwdriver, unscrewing the drain screw until fuel flows out and into the rag. Be careful not to drop the screw.  When no further fuel flows, tighten the screw back into place and move on to the next carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draining the carbs is to avoid gum-like residue that forms in the carbs when the fuel evaporates. It generally takes more than few cold months for the fuel to fully evaporate, so assuming you'll have it out early in the spring - don't worry about it this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="620" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T22:22:50.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2900" CreationDate="2012-02-24T04:50:09.173" Score="1" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved to the city and find that I am not driving my minivan (2003 Kia Sedona) much anymore.  I've been driving it about 1-2 miles about once every 2 weeks.  The rest of the time, it is stored in a heated parking garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read about gas going bad and gumming up the fuel injectors.  Is this something I need to worry about?  I don't plan on needing gas very often, and the gas in the tank now has been there since the new year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, the battery has held up just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other issues I should be thinking about?  Preventative maintenance I should be doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="230" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:15:25.673" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:15:25.673" Title="Preventative maintenance for rarely-driven minivan in heated garage" Tags="|maintenance|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2012-02-24T09:36:00.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern Petrol, with the various additives that are now added, only lasts a few months before it starts to go bad (although it will take a while longer before it gets to the stage of gumming things up). Short journeys like that don't give the battery a full charge, or let the engine get up to temperature properly, so you will start getting more frequent flat batteries and carbon build-ups in the engine. You will also reduce the life of your catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual solution is to give it a long run (at least 10-20 miles) every couple of weeks. If you are using it so infrequently that doing so isn't practical, I would start seriously considering whether you still need the van - 1-2 miles a fortnight you could do in a taxi, and save the fixed running costs of keeping the van going - I don't know what the costs of insurance, tax etc are like where you are, but round here it can be in the region of £5-600 a year ($8-900USD), which really isn't worth it for less than 50 miles a year!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T09:36:00.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2902" CreationDate="2012-02-24T14:06:09.987" Score="1" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rear wheel drive lowered car (BMW 325 E36). A few months ago, the driver side rear tyre burst (I hadn't noticed the wear on the inside). Now I can see the inner of the rear tyres is definitely wearing more quickly than the outer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there is a negative camber on the rear tyres. Given that the car is lowered, is it still possible to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1545" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T18:56:42.013" Title="Wear on inner of rear tyres" Tags="|wheels|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2901" CreationDate="2012-02-24T14:24:46.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, put it back to standard height ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC E36s are twin-wishbone IRS at the back, unless you've got a compact which runs E30 rear suspension. I can't remember if the wishbones themselves are adjustable, I have a feeling that the standard ones aren't and you'd have to get aftermarket ones instead*. Depending how it is mounted, you may well find that you can shim out the top wishbone slightly, thus pushing out the top of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a good local tyre place with a proper 4-wheel laser alignment rig, they should be able to tell you how far out it is, and may well be able to adjust it for you there and then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't drive it more than you absolutely have to (and preferably not at all) until you've got it fixed - the current set-up is positively dangerous (after all, you've blown a tyre already!), and not only are you risking lives, but the authorities look very badly on people driving cars that are known to be unroadworthy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Which I wouldn't recommend unless you're going to splash out on proper Koni or Gaz stuff. BMW know a lot more about suspension design than most aftermarket suppliers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T14:24:46.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2883" CreationDate="2012-02-24T18:50:52.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've owned two prius's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery life: the battery has an 8 year, 100k mile warranty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scheduled maintenance: same as a regular car. the hybrid system has no additional maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other costs: nothing beyond a regular car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold weather: no impact additional impact. as with a normal car, extreme cold weather lowers fuel efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T18:50:52.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2901" CreationDate="2012-02-24T18:56:42.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nick C said, you can restore it to proper height.  Or, if you really must have it lowered, you can upgrade it with camber plates to give it the ability to have the camber adjusted by an alignment shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T18:56:42.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-24T19:30:31.933" Score="4" ViewCount="9010" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of yesterday, my wife's key no longer starts our 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe. The key turns fine, all electrical accessories work, but the starter is never engaged. My key (an original) works fine. I have another spare key (also a copy, like my wife's) that acts the same as my wife's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery, starter, solenoid and fuses have all been checked (before it was narrowed down to the key). Both my wife's key and the spare key are &gt; 5 years old, and my wife's has been used near-daily without any issues until yesterday. Not believing it wasn't just some sort of fluke, I repeatedly tried her key and then mine for 15 or 20 times with the same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These don't appear to be one of those new-fangled smart keys that everyone seems to have issues with. My wife's and my spare key don't have a rubber head, and are just regular keys. The Santa Fe does have a factory anti-theft system, but we haven't used it in years (the key fobs ate batteries too fast for my tastes) and no longer even carry the fobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy answer would seem to be that her key is &quot;worn down&quot; somehow (visual inspection doesn't offer any clues) - but with the spare key not working, is it possibly something in the ignition switch or key cylinder? Any other possibilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1548" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T12:19:22.097" Title="One Key Starts, Two Others Don't" Tags="|starting|ignition|key|hyundai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7514" CreationDate="2012-02-25T01:03:06.317" Score="2" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to change the shocks on my 1993 Acura Integra, but I just can't seem to loosen the self-locking nut from the bolt that connects the lower part of the shock to the knuckle. I tried Liquid Wrench and that doesn't seem to do a think, I also tried an impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer) but nothing seems to make a difference. I'm thinking that the impact didn't work because the way my suspension is mounted allows the whole nut/bolt/shock assembly to twist together a few degrees, but I'm not sure that's a factor. Is there a trick to removing these nuts or should I just go and buy/borrow a beefy impact wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T23:40:46.487" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T23:40:46.487" Title="Lower suspension self locking nut stuck" Tags="|suspension|replace|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2939" CreationDate="2012-02-25T05:03:31.513" Score="2" ViewCount="7851" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recharged the car battery, dashboard lights all on, starter motor producing the starting sound. Engine not starting. After seeing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1426/car-suddenly-decides-to-not-crank&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question, I cleaned the solenoid brushes and at the first turn of the key, the engine starts for half a second and stops. Because of continuously trying to start the car, the battery seems to be going down. Tried pushing the car to start it, but it didn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad says the problem may be because no petrol is reaching the engine (which may be true because it's been more than a week since I've started the car). Plus, one engine bore is worn out because of which engine oil hits the spark plug, causing misfire. It's been more than six months since I've given it for servicing (spark plug changed) and I use the car only about twice a month.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the solution to find the tube that brings petrol to the engine and pour some petrol into it (I hear people do it when air gets into the pipe)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s: Also, as a secondary question I'd like to know a neutral opinion of how often should a person give a car for servicing (car more than a decade old) when it has a misfiring problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T18:55:06.343" Title="Car engine starts only for a fraction of a second and doesn't anymore?" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8710" CreationDate="2012-02-25T05:54:41.733" Score="2" ViewCount="7683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hero Honda air cooled single cylinder 4 stroke engine bike. It's about 5 years old, and I've done all the recommended servicing on time. I lost the servicing manual, but I remember that the end of the manual mentioning something about doing a servicing once every certain number of kilometers of usage. A friend says the bike is to be serviced every six months. But if I'm using the bike only once every week, how often would I have to service it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or rather, what would be the general frequency of servicing a bike? One year? Six months? How does one decide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T17:19:41.957" Title="Frequency for servicing bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|service|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2912" CreationDate="2012-02-25T06:00:05.627" Score="1" ViewCount="9677" Body="&lt;p&gt;A colleague says it is a best-practice to fill air in the car and bike tires once every two weeks. He says not doing so causes tiny wrinkles/cracks in the tubing and reduces the life of the tire faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? I tend to fill air in the tires only when I can feel that the air pressure is low (like when the vehicle moves over a road hump and I feel that the tire does not have enough air pressure).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is recommended practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T23:03:39.403" Title="When to know it's time to fill the tyres with air again?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2012-02-25T06:29:17.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fill them when they are low, but check them often. Once a week, or every fuel fill up. Car tires don't have tubes now a days, so you are actually sitting on the sidewall on the tire if they go flat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Personally, I check every week as my tank last close to 3 weeks due to short commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T06:29:17.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2906" CreationDate="2012-02-25T06:34:00.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember having issues like these about 5 years ago, and we ended up having to grip the screw/stud that was sticking out while turning the nut. Does the bolt have a flat piece that you can maybe get a wrench on? Try this if possible. Another option, assuming you are replacing them, vice grip the polished rod with some beefy vice grips and removed the nut. This will damage the polished rod, so only do this if changing the whole assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T06:34:00.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2012-02-25T10:21:52.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your driving style it may become obvious very rapidly when you need to add more pressure. If my front tyres drop by 2psi it dramatically affects high-G corners, so while I do pump them up every month at a minimum, if I feel cornering is not ideal I also go and check them as soon as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T10:21:52.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-25T22:44:52.660" Score="3" ViewCount="1354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Renault Megane (ie #2 model). The child locking button on the driver side window control panel is broken (will be sourcing one when I find a spare).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime my childlocks are on, and without the button I can't turn them off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to turn the childlock off manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T12:47:45.940" Title="Megane release childlock without button" Tags="|locks|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-26T12:39:43.930" Score="22" ViewCount="781474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put too much motor oil in my car's motor.  About a quart - have I ruined my car?  I've been driving it.  I know I need to get the oil drained.  But I'm worried that I've ruined my car which has been running very well until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1553" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T02:00:15.977" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T07:33:22.240" Title="Will Putting An Extra Quart of Oil In My Car Ruin It?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2012-02-26T14:31:36.023" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;About a quart - have I ruined my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, no.  If you read the answers &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/how-far-can-i-drive-with-1-gallon-too-much-oil&quot;&gt;on this similar question&lt;/a&gt;, even a gallon of extra oil generally won't ruin a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1126/57&quot;&gt;what I suggested&lt;/a&gt; and still recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the oil isn't hot, almost any sort of plastic tubing can be used&#xA;  for siphoning. It's easiest to go in via the dip stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember not to use the &quot;suck start&quot; siphoning method as you don't&#xA;  want a mouthful of oil. If you have a long enough piece of tubing, you&#xA;  can stick the excess down the dipstick tube, put your thumb over the&#xA;  end, pull out the slack (that is now full of oil) and you'll have an&#xA;  immediate siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also remember to siphon the oil back into the original container - you might as well keep it until you do need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that big a deal.  With an extra quart, most normal cars driven by normal people will just have slightly lower mileage due to pumping losses.  Go ahead and get it back to the correct level, though: no need to waste gas or trouble your peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T14:31:36.023" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2012-02-26T23:52:51.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for disposal, I found a good resource for finding a local oil recycling center. &lt;a href=&quot;http://earth911.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Earth911.com&lt;/a&gt; has a search engine for finding places to recycle all sorts of things including used motor oil and lead-acid batteries (finally I can get rid of the pile in my garage!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out, most Auto Parts stores will do this, also Tractor Supply and WalMart stores (with an auto center) tend to as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T23:52:51.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2012-02-27T04:10:17.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a tip for pouring the oil in: pour from the &quot;wrong&quot; side of the container. It's easier to control the start when you do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T04:10:17.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2919" CreationDate="2012-02-27T11:55:20.563" Score="1" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to improve/adjust my wheel alignment on a lowered BMW E36. I have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2901/wear-on-inner-of-rear-tyres/2904?iemail=1#comment2739_2902&quot;&gt;advised to check the condition of my dampers&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not sure how to do that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T14:22:21.177" Title="What is a damper and how do I determine whether it is in good or bad condition?" Tags="|wheels|alignment|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2918" CreationDate="2012-02-27T12:34:14.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With respect to your original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is a damper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;damper&lt;/a&gt; (AKA strut or shock absorber) is &quot;a mechanical device designed to dissipate kinetic energy.&quot;  In it's automotive use, it works with the springs to absorb the impact of bumps and rough spots in the road before those impacts bother your car and the passengers therein.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answering a related question, I posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2309/57&quot;&gt;pretty long answer&lt;/a&gt;.  Here is the short form of the standard check-your-shocks procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Push down one corner of the car and release. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Watch the motion: the corner of the car should start low, come up and return to rest. Any additional bouncing = bad shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also consider the total miles on the shocks.  If the shocks only have a few thousand miles on them, there's a good chance that they're fine.  If there's 100K miles on them, they're probably done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T14:22:21.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2592" CreationDate="2012-02-27T12:55:39.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've noticed that when I hit a sharp bump (like a shallow pothole)&#xA;  that the car seems to shudder or vibrate for a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that you mean hitting a bump at speed (rather than inching over it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a strut that's worn enough that you're pushing the strut right up against the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suspension_%28vehicle%29#Travel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bump stop&lt;/a&gt;, transferring all that energy directly into the vehicle rather than damping it on the way up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also am wondering if I need new shocks if I should replace all 4, or&#xA;  just the front, and if this is a task a shade tree mechanic could do&#xA;  without killing himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these struts are original and have 100K miles on them, it's pretty safe to assume that they're all done and you should replace all four.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A super quick scan of indicates that parts will cost you on the order of $100 per corner for the struts.  You'll likely want to replace the strut tops and possibly the bump stops as well, possibly adding $50-ish per corner for the additional parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to whether you could do this work yourself, it's possible but I would not recommend it for the first timer.  Nothing about the labor is brain surgery but it is much harder to do without the right tools.  If you don't already do this sort of thing for fun, it's worth paying to have the struts installed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When I was replacing the struts on the cars at home, I needed a jack, jack stands, a good socket set, a breaker bar, a spring compressor, a set of allen wrenches, vice grips, a lot of nitrile gloves, band aids, an entire day for each car and several post-installation therapy beers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T12:55:39.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:06:50.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most likely will not cause damage by running only an extra quart. Many people racing with stock oil pans will run half a quart to a quart of extra oil to prevent the oil pump pickup from drawing in air under racing conditions. Under sustained high RPM, oil can be pumped out of the sump faster than it can drain back. This issue combined with high cornering forces would move the remaining oil in the pan away from the oil pump pickup tube, causing oil starvation and engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your engine's optimal maximum oil level is determined by filling up to where there is a safe gap between moving parts and the oil. What you put too much oil in your engine, you risk frothing the oil due to the crankshaft and connecting rods whipping air into it. The air bubbles in the oil will interfere with the oil's shear strength, which is what keeps metal parts from rubbing directly together. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is the additional oil splashing around the crankcase from the crankshaft and connecting rods whipping it up. It will coat the sides of the cylinder walls and could result in excessive oil consumption. In the worst case, carbon deposits from the burnt oil could cause the piston rings to stick, making oil consumption even worse and reducing power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but again, one quart is really not going to be enough for you to run into these problems. More than one quart is asking for trouble though. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/how-far-can-i-drive-with-1-gallon-too-much-oil&quot;&gt;How far can I drive with 1 gallon too much oil?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T23:13:05.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:14:05.183" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would not start an engine that has the oil overfilled by a gallon.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cause permanent engine damage by significantly overfilling the engine with oil. If the crankshaft and connecting rods are contacting the oil, they will whip air into it and cause it to foam. This happens when the oil level is too high. Foamy oil may still work as a barrier lubricant, but it does NOT have a high film strength. The air bubbles that make it foamy will compress under pressure, and metal parts will touch other metal parts that they normally shouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people racing cars with stock oil pans will overfill by a quart or sometimes a bit more, just to prevent oil starvation under high RPM or high G-forces. I think more than a quart is asking for trouble unless you're familiar with the crankcase and oil pan geometry and know you can safely add more. The main thing you want to avoid is filling up past the bottom of the windage tray, which is the panel that prevents oil from being blown around by air pushed by the spinning crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T19:15:14.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:15:14.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:58:37.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I check my car tires monthly.  At most they change a couple pounds either way (have to let a little air out in the Summer and have to add some in the Winter).  The amount that car tires leak seems to be pretty small compared to just the differences from temperature change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly OT, but since you asked...  I can get away with only checking my mountain bike tires only once a week, but the road bike I have to check it every day I ride it.  Skinny high pressure tires lose pressure FAST even just when sitting there!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:58:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2908" CreationDate="2012-02-27T18:57:45.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You go by the manual.  Some items may be time limited, some may be by mileage.  Most will have a time and mileage limit, such as &quot;Do x every 12,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T18:57:45.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-02-27T21:47:21.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try getting a jump start from another vehicle - it may be the starter motor is old, or your battery is just not giving enough current. This is probably the most likely problem - one drive a month may not be enough to keep a decent charge in your battery, so a few solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take it out more often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a trickle charger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give it a good blast when you do take it out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pouring petrol in anywhere other than the petrol tank is not generally something you want to try. It can help in certain circumstances, yes, but also can cause other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get my car serviced every 10000 miles, or at least once a year (but some cars are happy with 20000 so check your service manual)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T21:47:21.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-02-27T22:14:28.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a misfire, you should service it then.  There aren't any cars newer than 10 years old in my driveway and none of them misfire.  When not having problems you should stick to what the manual says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T22:14:28.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1531" CreationDate="2012-02-27T22:57:07.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing on my 08 ninja 500, the seller obviously laid it down on the left side so it had a &quot;curled&quot; clutch. A new one cost me $7 and I replaced it myself, so not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T22:57:07.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-28T01:32:48.853" Score="3" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a few months ago I moved from Colorado (~6400ft above sea level) to Florida (~10ft above sea level). Immediately after I moved the fuel efficiency in my car dropped significantly. Previously I was getting 27-28mpg, and now I'm getting 22-23mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have expected the opposite as now the engine gets more oxygen so I would think it runs better. And indeed I've seen several sites on the internet supporting this. Unfortunately I've also seen several sites claiming the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is it supposed to be? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am supposed to be getting better fuel economy at lower altitude, any ideas what could be wrong?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm measuring fuel economy by how much fuel the car takes at the pump &amp;amp; my odometer. I've tried resetting my ECU, which had no effect. My driving has changed a little, but is more freeway driving now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder. Its a 6-cylinder manual transmission. Uses premium fuel (89 in Colorado, 93 in Florida).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1556" LastEditorUserId="1556" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T01:27:16.683" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T12:56:24.633" Title="Fuel efficiency and altitude" Tags="|fuel-system|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2012-02-28T09:00:28.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What may be more important is air temperature - the much warmer air you will be getting in Florida will not give you as much power. Cold air is much more efficient for a car engine to use as it is denser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I get a noticeable power increase during a cold winter here, and there are power boost kits some of my friends use which simply spray cooling air over the intercooler to keep the engine cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T09:00:28.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2931" CreationDate="2012-02-28T19:52:41.647" Score="7" ViewCount="19249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering the purchase of a 2001 VW Golf TDI &quot;mechanic's special&quot;, so named because it apparently has a failed head gasket (white smoke).  I'm not a mechanic but I'm fairly handy with tools and figure I could probably fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that head gaskets are not the kinds of things that just fail for no reason, and that this one might be the result of some problem that has done other damage to the engine or other parts of the car.  So I'm wondering what the likely causes of head gasket failure might be, and what other damage those might have caused.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points for indicators of these problems that can be seen without splitting the engine first.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: 225,000km (140,000 mi), if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1558" LastEditorUserId="1558" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:03:04.193" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T16:40:03.253" Title="Why do head gaskets fail in diesel engines?" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2930" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:57:03.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the most common cause of failure of the gasket is overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would it overheat? Check for coolant leaks in the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine gaskets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pipes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check for oil leaks or low oil - these can have knock on overheating effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your radiator isn't full of sludge - that could be a cause of the problem, or it could get filled with sludge as a result of the gasket failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some gaskets are just badly made or fitted, so check these as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:57:03.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2012-02-29T05:50:16.347" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Humid air is less dense than dry air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Imagine a cubic foot of perfectly dry air. It contains about 78%&#xA;  nitrogen molecules, which each have a molecular weight of 28 (2 atoms&#xA;  with atomic weight 14) . Another 21% of the air is oxygen, with each&#xA;  molecule having a molecular weight of 32 (2 stoms with atomic weight&#xA;  16). The final one percent is a mixture of other gases, which we won't&#xA;  worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Molecules are free to move in and out of our cubic foot of air. What&#xA;  Avogadro discovered leads us to conclude that if we added water vapor&#xA;  molecules to our cubic foot of air, some of the nitrogen and oxygen&#xA;  molecules would leave — remember, the total number of molecules in our&#xA;  cubic foot of air stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The water molecules, which replace nitrogen or oxygen, have a&#xA;  molecular weight of 18. (One oxygen atom with atomic weight of 16, and&#xA;  two hudrogen atoms each with atomic weight of 1). This is lighter than&#xA;  both nitrogen and oxygen. In other words, replacing nitrogen and&#xA;  oxygen with water vapor decreases the weight of the air in the cubic&#xA;  foot; that is, it's density decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usatoday.com/weather/wdensity.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T05:50:16.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2012-03-02T03:09:31.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is the switch to higher viscosity is not providing better protection but reduces the amount of oil lost in the combustion process.Because it is thicker less of it blows by into the exhaust.This indirectly lessens the time the engine is running with less than optimal oil volume.The potential down side is at lower ambient temps.the oil will take longer to circulate through the motor on a cold start.Also a slight decrease in mpg as stated as the engine works harder to move the thicker oil.Mixing viscosity won't cause any harm.My theory has always been that 5w30 with 1000 miles on it is no thicker than 5w20 with 0miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T03:09:31.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-02T03:18:58.090" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year snow and ice fell off my house and damaged my 2006 impala.The roof was replaced along with front and rear glass.Now when the rear deicer is on it causes radio interference.Returning it to the body shop would make sense if I had noticed it 14 months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T19:25:02.300" Title="rear deicer causes radio interference" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2012-03-02T03:36:47.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the bead may have been damaged.The wire in the bead may have been kinked in shipping,storage or manufacture.Back in the day we used to take tire that weren't damaged but may have a deformity from storage and let it sit around for a couple of days with an overinflated inner tube in it.The tube would reshape the tire.Then the tire could be installed normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T03:36:47.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2848" CreationDate="2012-03-02T03:47:14.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description the part you need is the rear shoe spreader. It is a flat piece of metal that is part of the mechanism that actuates your parking brake. It can be difficult to locate because it has no moving parts and lasts forever unless the rear shoes wear so much that the wheel cylinders over extend and fail. The shoes moved so far out that the spreader fell out of position and most likely wedged between the shoes and the drums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T22:55:50.057" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T22:55:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2935" CreationDate="2012-03-02T08:43:14.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whereabouts on the car is the radio aerial located? I would suspect you have a crossed wire between the two, especially if the aerial is at the back of the roof or near the rear window (in which case the wire from that and the wire to the heater would be likely to follow the same path).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is probably a case of taking off the appropriate interior trim, and hunting for any damaged wires in the two circuits...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T08:43:14.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-03-02T16:24:49.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be that a rat chewed up the petrol tube. The mechanic opened the bonnet, and tried to suck out some petrol and nothing came out. Then he got underneath the car and saw the chewed tube. That's why no petrol was reaching the engine. Darn rats!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T16:24:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2012-03-02T17:34:09.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;not knowing anything specifically about a Megane, you should be able to pull off the get behind the broken button (remove dash or arm rest or wherever the button is) and short the wires together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T17:34:09.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2935" CreationDate="2012-03-02T19:25:02.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bad ground or power connection can cause interference.  Check the attachment points.  Also check anyplace enroute where part of the defroster cable may have been pinched and damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T19:25:02.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2012-03-02T20:33:04.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible that the valve cover leak was allowing hot oil to drip on the motor mounts shortening their life and as Dwayne states maybe only the broken one was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T20:33:04.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-03T01:58:51.340" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I have the heat or ac on in my car it smells fine until I stop. If my car is not moving and the heat or ac is on it smells something like exhaust. Sometimes it is stronger than other times. Not sure why it would only happen when car is parked or stoped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1567" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:49:14.420" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:49:14.420" Title="2001 Plymouth Neon-Smell coming from vents when on" Tags="|ac|heater|neon|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="426" CreationDate="2012-03-03T11:40:20.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this may not apply to all cheap fluids, this is a quote from the Mobil website for their premium synthetic ATF. Sure, it's $10 / quart, but isn't your power steering system and transmission worth it. How many quarts do you need per lifetime of the car anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a multi-vehicle formula recommended for use in modern high performance automobiles, SUV's, SUT's, vans and other light trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in applications requiring DEXRON® III, Ford MERCON® and MERCON® V performance levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meets or exceeds the off-highway power transmission requirements of Allison C-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended by ExxonMobil for use in any power steering unit where a DEXRON® or MERCON® fluid is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/other_products/mobil_1_synthetic_atf.aspx#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/other_products/mobil_1_synthetic_atf.aspx#&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1569" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T11:40:20.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2012-03-03T15:30:59.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;STOP DRIVING IT until you get the exhaust leak fixed .You can easily be overcome by the carbon monoxide.While driving the air moving under the car is sweeping away the exhaust,when you are still the exhaust is leaking into the passanger compartment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T15:30:59.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-03T21:03:07.730" Score="2" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the clutch in my manual transmission 1990 Acura Integra LS (5 speed, 4-cylinder). In the course of doing this, I need to remove the transmission which is connected to the shift arm and I can't see how to disconnect the shift arm from the transmission. It looks to be pinned together, but I'm concerned about trying to simply beat the pins out. There are no visible bolt heads that I've been able to find. I don't see how it would be practical to remove the transmission without disconnecting this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: found a spring clip and pin under a rubber boot.  Popped those out (with some difficulty) and got it all free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:27:41.990" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:27:41.990" Title="1990 Acura Integra LS manual transmission clutch replacement" Tags="|transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|acura|integra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="71910" CreationDate="2012-03-04T19:09:26.223" Score="3" ViewCount="38061" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I had this gremlin in my wife's BMW 330i for at least 4 years. The car runs great but once in a while you would start it in the morning and the engine would sound rough with some shaking. After few minutes it would go back to normal and I wouldn't see this problem for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few weeks ago we had a snow storm and while snow blowing the driveway I had to move the car. After moving it, the next day I got the same misfire and it got me thinking that a lot of times when I had that misfire, I did something else to the car, like drive in/out of the garage (very short operating time as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would cause misfire like that, several hours (12+) later after very short run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've simply ignored this quirk, but lately been trying to see if I can understand it.  When it happened once back in the fall, I pulled the engine cover off and disconnected ignition coils one at a time until I discovered that cylinder #4 was the one that was misfiring.  When it happened this time, it was 5 am and I was going to the airport, so didn't have time to see if it was the same cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="509" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T13:07:10.993" Title="Misfire the next morning if car runs only for 15 seconds" Tags="|troubleshooting|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2947" CreationDate="2012-03-04T19:18:24.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a spring clip and pin under a rubber boot. Popped those out (with some difficulty) and got it all free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T19:18:24.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2948" CreationDate="2012-03-04T20:23:10.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your spark plugs? I had a similar periodic issue. Turned out I had oil in one of my spark plug holes, which messed up the cable. I replaced my valve cover gasket, all plugs and cables, and was good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a misfire can happen and be inaudible. I cool trick I've learned is to hold up a dollar bill to your tailpipe with the engine running. The bill should not get sucked into the tail pipe, as that would indicate a misfire. If you have an assistant, have them give it a little gas, to get the car out of idle, while your run this test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T20:23:10.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2958" CreationDate="2012-03-04T22:54:31.433" Score="10" ViewCount="109971" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1990 Mazda 626 leaks oil like a sieve, so I regularly top up the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a moment of stupidity, I opened my radiator cap instead of my oil cap while topping up my engine oil, and poured about 50-100 mls of engine oil into my radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What implications is this likely to have on the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T14:04:42.310" Title="Accidentally poured engine oil into the coolant reservoir" Tags="|oil|radiator|coolant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2012-03-05T00:09:06.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to drain the coolant and replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should follow the instructions in your owners manual.  If you don't have one handy, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7191173_drain-mazda_s-radiator.html&quot;&gt;ehow page&lt;/a&gt; is a fairly general set of instructions but it'll get you into the right general location for the coolant drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, engine coolant is toxic and should be disposed of properly.  This is a perfectly reasonable time to consider having a professional flush the coolant system for you: they will dispose of the coolant properly, allowing you to avoid the hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil in the coolant won't kill the car.  It's something that can happen with a bad head gasket.  However, it is definitely not a desirable state.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T00:09:06.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2909" CreationDate="2012-03-05T01:45:18.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00084IBNQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gauges that mount to the valve stem in place of the cap&lt;/a&gt;. They show red when the pressure is low, green when it is correct. You can most likely get them locally at an auto supply/parts store or online. Once installed a quick glance will alert you to a low tire. In the U.S. they are available in different pressure ratings to match your vehicle specifications. After you have had them for awhile you can just check them every time you refuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVQFF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVQFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve stem cap tire pressure gauges&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T23:03:39.403" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T23:03:39.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2012-03-05T02:12:07.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the U.S. we have available a product called STA-BIL it is a fuel stabilizer they claim up to one year of storage with no ill effects.If you cannot locate it at an automotive supply store check a marine/boating supply source or a recreatioal vehicle shop. A 20 ounce bottle is about 18 dollars US.Ihave used it for years in an antique car that I only drive in nice weather.Another item to consider is abattery tender.Rather than being a full size charger it just applies a small charge to replace what is lost.You really should try to drive it long to get it up to operating temp long enough to evaporate the condenssation in the oil.Also change the oil at least once a year regardless of actual mileage driven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T02:12:07.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2948" CreationDate="2012-03-05T02:24:40.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you notice any smoke when this misfire happens?It is possible that you have a leaking injector. The injector may not be holding fuel pressure after the engine is shut off.When this occurrs with a hot engine the heat of the piston vaporizes the fuel.When the engine is cold the fuel sits in the cylinder and causes a misfire on start up until the cylinder clears its self.This might explain why it is not setting a fault code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T02:24:40.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2704" CreationDate="2012-03-05T03:15:47.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you check with your supplier some sell a loaded strut.It comes with a new spring and strut mount.If you don't have a strut compressor or are unlikely to have a need for one again it can make sense to spend the extra money and save a lot of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T03:15:47.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2134" CreationDate="2012-03-05T03:59:49.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a washing machine drip pan at Home Depot.Iput my catch bucket on that to keep the drive way clean.Most auto supply stores sell a container that is a combination catch pan transport container.no need to transfer just bring the whole thing to recycle the contents.It will hold about 15 quarts or three changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T03:59:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2012-03-05T07:55:11.470" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, I would ask first in a comment but that seems to be a privilege not available to new users, so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it was the radiator cap and not the overflow bottle? The radiator is usually full and getting 100ml in would be a struggle, not to mention that the green coolant would be staring you in the face. If you radiator wasn't full then you either have an empty overflow bottle, or your system wasn't burped properly the last time the coolant was changed, or you have a leaking head gasket introducing combustion gasses into your coolant system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was the overflow bottle, there's a good chance that you car hasn't drawn the oil in from the overflow bottle yet. I say this because the pickup for the overflow bottle is near the bottom of the tank, engine oil floats on water and is insoluble in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice then is to remove the overflow bottle, clean it with a degreaser and refill with coolant. If you did actually get it in the radiator, let me know and I'll edit this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as implications of oil in the radiator go: Oil will, in theory, attack the hoses and water pump seals. This would probably be a long term degradation rather than a sudden failure, and given the oil problem I doubt your engine will survive long enough to see the long term effects. My father's vehicle has been running with a slight oil-to-coolant leak for about two years, without any (visible) ill effects. The vast majority of the oil (after you've removed the head of oil floating in the radiator filler) will collect under the radiator cap as a creamy goo, which you can periodically remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the coolant wont do much to remove the oil that has coated the inner surfaces of your cooling system. If you have oil in the radiator and haven't run the car yet, siphon out the oil before it touches any more surfaces in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T07:55:11.470" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7746" CreationDate="2012-03-05T08:20:35.153" Score="4" ViewCount="39318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any estimates available on how much fuel you can expect to lose from a fuel tank that is leaking vapours? Leaking vapours would be caused by cracked/missing evaporative emissions hoses, a leaky/missing fuel cap, et cetera. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that the exact amount would depend on a number of variables, like temperature and the amount of sloshing in the tank. That's okay, I'm after an 'order of magnitude' estimate or an upper limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any numbers would be quite helpful, whether they be from reliable documentation, anecdotes, forum posts etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the question is that I have been investigating some very poor mileage on a car with a 60% increase over specification on the highway, but very good power otherwise. I'm waiting for a new EVAP check valve, as the old one was very leaky. I'm wondering how much of an increase in consumption this could have made in a worst case scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T15:19:56.620" Title="Effect of loss of fuel tank vapours on mileage" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-05T16:42:19.680" Score="8" ViewCount="5254" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1988 Subaru XT6 2.7L engine screams at me on a cold start then it will stop and then do it again when I take it out of park, but then it stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my car is losing antifreeze. Any ideas why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T04:30:31.403" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:40:02.080" Title="Why does my car scream on cold start?" Tags="|engine|electrical|maintenance|subaru|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2012-03-05T16:53:56.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head this sounds like either your serpentine belt is going bad and/or one of the idler pulleys has got a bad bearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are losing antifreeze that is indicative of a leak somewhere. Could be anywhere in the system. I would check your oil and make sure that you don't see any antifreeze in there. Also look under the car where you usually park and see if there is any liquid dripping or spots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1579" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T16:53:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2012-03-05T17:22:37.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of one mechanical/thermodynamic reason why you would see some of loss of mileage, although I suspect that a change in daily driving routine and possibly fuel (ethanol content) are together a bigger bigger factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, higher altitude will decrease you engine's power output at wide open throttle. 3% per 1000feet is a figure that is thrown around, however I don't have a proper source for that. This doesn't mean that you'll loose efficiency at higher altitude as most of time the engine isn't producing peak power but is being throttled to stop it from drawing in enough air to make peak power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttling results in &lt;strong&gt;pumping losses&lt;/strong&gt;. The piston is doing work in order to draw fresh charge into the cylinder at manifold pressure (vacuum) against crankcase pressure (at atmospheric pressure). At higher altitudes atmospheric pressure is lower and therefore less throttling is required resulting in lower pumping losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this website with a good explanation of pumping losses, but beware; it contains at least two P-V diagrams! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mechadyne-int.com/vva-reference/part-load-pumping-losses-si-engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mechadyne-int.com/vva-reference/part-load-pumping-losses-si-engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A break-down of emissions is available here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/atv.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/atv.shtml&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That page claims that pumping losses account for only ~4% of vehicle losses, however this seems quite optimistic to me. Keep in mind that your 3.0L V6 is quite large by world standards. Those 4% pumping losses might have been measured on a smaller engine, I'll look into what vehicle they did their tests on, it's been bothering me for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastEditorUserId="1576" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T17:34:11.923" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T17:34:11.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2012-03-05T21:23:16.613" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most water pumps are designed with a weep hole.This is a small hole that leaks a small amount of antifreeze just before the water pump fails.Most of the time the leak is just above the crankshaft pulley.When you shut off the car the pressure in the cooling system forces some coolant out this hole and it drips onto the pulley and is transfered to the fanbelt.The antifreeze makes the belt slip for the first few minutes.While the car is running the fan blows the coolant away from the belt so you don't notice a puddle or a squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-09-16T21:10:46.700" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T21:10:46.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2966" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:13:37.790" Score="10" ViewCount="190281" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we got an oil change, he said it's &quot;leaking, but not out of fluid or low&quot;. Do we need to do any replacement/maintenance on it, or just wait until it gets worse? How would I check something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T14:30:42.377" Title="Do I need to replace rear differential if it's leaking?" Tags="|troubleshooting|parts|replace|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2969" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:19:12.290" Score="4" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the front passenger side and rear driver side tires at 34 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two wheels are around 28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much is this affecting the mileage on the car? It is a 2004 Cadillac SRX V8, and the valves are stuck on, even when using a pliers. Oil change guys said we need to take it to a tire place to get them off and possibly replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I wait on this, or should we get them evened up right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:16:58.057" Title="How much mpg am I losing with different inflated tires?" Tags="|tires|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:24:18.290" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it runs out of fluid it will need to be replaced, because it will destroy itself rapidly (probably preceded by a loud grinding noise). In the meantime, as long as there is sufficient gear oil to wet the gears it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for severity, it is common for differentials to develop a &quot;seep&quot; around the front seal where the drive-shaft connects, or the gasket where the two halves come together. If this is just a &quot;wet spot&quot; on the differential, without generating actual drips of oil, then it is not a big deal - just something to keep an eye on to make sure it doesn't get worse (actual drops on the ground).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just a &quot;seep&quot;, or even a very slow leak (where drips are generated, but very slowly), then short/medium term, you can just check the fluid and top it off periodically. On an old vehicle, this might be a fine solution - just check it whenever you change the engine oil. On some vehicles, it can be very difficult to check the fluid, which makes this a less attractive proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;correct&quot; repair would be to have the differential overhauled, which would involve removal from the vehicle, opening the differential, installing new wear-components like bearings and thrust washers, then reassembling with new gaskets and seals. Parts cost would be in the $100-$300 range, with labor in the 4-8 hour range. I would not bother with this unless the leak seems to be getting worse, or is regularly leaving drops on your driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T22:24:18.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2970" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:29:42.620" Score="7" ViewCount="42166" Body="&lt;p&gt;My windshield wipers do not remove all the water from my windshield.  In the photos, you can see that there are portions of the windshield that should be cleaned by the wiper, but are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m not sure how long it has been since I replaced my wipers. But the most recent time, I purchased Michelin brand wipers because I was having the same problem with my previous wipers, with the same exact problem spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where is the problem, the windshield or the wiper? Will it help if I get new wipers? How often are you supposed to replace wipers? Will it help if I apply Rain-X? Any other suggestions on what to do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJGeJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hey Michelin Man, you missed a spot!&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJMoF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;It&amp;#39;s kinda hard to see through this you know&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="455" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T18:59:05.183" Title="Why don't my wipers clean the windshield very well?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:37:49.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most vehicles of the rear wheel or four wheel type this would invole crawling under the vehicle or raising it onto service ramps/jackstands.The plug would be removed and an object inserted in the hole (a little finger works well for this)to see if the differential fluid is even with the bottom of the plug hole,if oil gets on your finger the level is OK.If the leak is at the rear cover or the pinion(where the drive shaft attaches) monitor your driveway or parking space for drips that would indicate it is getting worse.It appears you have found a mechanic that is thorough enough to have noticed the leak so ask him/her to check it while having your oil changed.If the leak is at an axle seal it is something you will want to have repaired sooner as it could impact brake performance if the oil reaches the brake linings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T22:37:49.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:38:13.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get them changed straight away, not necessarily for the mpg, but in order to be safer on the road. In an emergency situation, where you need to brake really hard, there is a real chance that the car will pull uncontrollably to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As sorting tires is cheap and quick, I would suggest doing it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to specifically answer your question, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/maintain.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fueleconomy.gov&lt;/a&gt; website gives us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can improve your gas mileage by up to 3.3 percent by keeping your&#xA;  tires inflated to the proper pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower&#xA;  gas mileage by 0.3 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all&#xA;  four tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T14:16:58.057" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:16:58.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:43:51.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens due to the wiper blade wearing out - it is generally considered a consumable item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replace mine at least once a year (just before winter) and often late spring as well if I find any areas of the windscreen not getting cleared correctly. In the UK you can be committing an offence if your wipers do not clean the windscreen enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain-X definitely helps. If you ensure your windscreen is completely clean and then treat with Rain-X you will be able to go longer without using your wipers, but once you start to use your wipers you will remove the Rain-X pretty quickly. It is most useful in very wet conditions at a reasonable speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T22:43:51.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2972" CreationDate="2012-03-05T23:08:20.977" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500, my fan switch only has 2 modes now: off and high.  On the low and medium settings the fan turns off. Do I just need to replace the switch or is there more to it than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T00:47:54.453" Title="Fan switch not working" Tags="|dodge|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2971" CreationDate="2012-03-06T00:47:54.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess would be a blower motor resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T00:47:54.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2976" CreationDate="2012-03-06T02:51:28.250" Score="1" ViewCount="13775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;strong&gt;1995 Subaru Legacy Outback&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm trying to get the best price for a clutch replacement and am putting together a list of all the necessary parts and prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone give me a list of parts that I should expect to pay for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T05:37:11.117" Title="What parts are required to replace a clutch?" Tags="|clutch|subaru|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2012-03-06T04:01:46.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need the clutch itself, as well as an alignment tool for installing. This is usually packaged with the clutch, however. Other than that, you can expect to pay to have the flywheel &quot;turned&quot; as well. It is feasible that you would need to purchase/install a new pressure plate, and some might suggest you go ahead and do so, with a vehicle that has that many years on it. My suggestion would be check the price of the pressure plate and weigh it against the cost of potentially having to get back in to install a new one after doing the clutch repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T04:02:10.787" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T04:02:10.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2959" CreationDate="2012-03-06T06:29:29.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 4 major types of Evaporative Emissions from the fuel system of a car, these are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diurnal: Evaporation caused by the fuel tank being heated by the sun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running Losses: Heat from the engine and exhaust system causes fuel vaporisation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat Soak: Once an engine is stopped heat from the engine and exhaust system causes fuel vaporisation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refuelling: there are always fuel vapours in the fuel tank, when you refuel these vapours are displaced by liquid fuel (and generally vented into the atmosphere).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of Evaporative Emissions created by a fuel depends on the given fuels Reid Vapour Pressure (RVP). RVP is a measure of a fuels  volatility, or put simply, how easily a fuel vaporises. In the summer you want fuel with a lower RVP to avoid losses and more specifically to avoid Vapour Lock, in the winter you want fuel with a higher RVP so that vaporisation occurs more easily when trying to start your vehicle, you want the fuel to vaporise as it’s entering the combustion chamber/cylinder so that it will burn.&#xA;Interestingly the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/otaq/fuels/gasolinefuels/volatility/index.htm&quot;&gt;EPA in the USA regulates the RVP of fuels&lt;/a&gt; sold depending on the time of year. This also occurs in other countries but I haven’t found any other references to link to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are asking about “leaking vapours” which means the first 3 forms of Evaporative Emissions are relevant, but we can probably discount the 4th as, aside from some methods of minimising refuelling vapour emission, these vapours are still deliberately vented to atmosphere in most/all cars so it can’t really be defined as “leaking”.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are interested in Refuelling Emissions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.creditinfocenter.com/wordpress/2008/07/24/increase-mileage-gas-tank-full-or-half-empty/&quot;&gt;Kristy Welsh did some calculations in 2008 to estimate how much Refuelling Loss&lt;/a&gt; would occur over a year for an “average American”, her initial answer is “about an 1/8th of a gallon”, she then goes on to multiply by a factor of 10 (just in case you think it’s way too low) and the answer is a little over a gallon or about 3.8 litres per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this answers the question of an estimate for loss from a fuel system leaking vapours and I’m afraid I can’t find anything that does answer the question. There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/ttn/chief/ap42/ch07/final/c07s01.pdf&quot;&gt;EPA document here&lt;/a&gt; which gives a lot of the information required to answer some parts of the question, but aside from being a very a large document, it only deals with stationary Liquid Storage Tanks so does not take into account extra evaporation caused by slosh, nor does it deal with Running Losses or Heat Soak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t think Diurnal Evaporation could cause anywhere near the same losses as Refuelling. These both operate on a similar principal, the sun must heat and expand the vapour enough for it to escape from the tank through emissions control hoses. If you assume Kristy Welsh is correct with her refuel losses estimate then losses from Diurnal Evaporation should be small enough to discount, particularly when talking about measuring fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two forms of loss, Running Losses and Heat Soak are much more difficult to estimate. They usually occur in what is a closed system, unless there is a leak. I’m afraid I can provide no evidence but experience that these don’t cause enough loss to be measurable when dealing with fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a damaged/malfunctioning EVAP valve is causing a measurable difference in fuel economy there are 2 more likely reasons for this than Evaporative Emissions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(the less likely option) The vehicles ECU has detected a fault and has put itself into a safer mode that over-fuels the car somewhat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(the more likely option) The leaky valve is causing a leak in your air intake and your engine is sucking in air that has not been measured by the ECU (MAP/MAF/some other air flow measurer). The ECU puts in enough fuel for the amount of air it thinks is in the system, this isn’t enough fuel and it makes the engine run lean. Running lean makes the engine detonate (also called knock/ping/pink) This triggers a knock sensor which in turn puts the ECU into an mode where it over-fuels the engine deliberately in order to stop the knocking.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outcome is the same, the ECU is deliberately over-fuelling the engine so as to avoid any damage being done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course, this is just my opinion that’s based on a couple of facts supplied. When your mechanic replaces the EVAP valve I’m sure he (or she) will run a full diagnostics test on your vehicle and a simple fault clear will probably sort the problem out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not an expert on any of this so please feel free to edit this answer and improve it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T06:29:29.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2973" CreationDate="2012-03-06T06:47:59.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To replace the clutch technically you only need a new clutch. However most people will purchase a Clutch Kit that will usually contain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure Plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thrust/ Release Bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pilot/Spigot Bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment Tool  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last 2 items are not always included in a clutch kit and they are not always necessary, although an alignment tool does make life a little easier (technically this is a tool and not a 'part').&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Depending on your location, Ebay can be a pretty good resource for getting a price estimate on whatever clutch parts you are looking for – you don’t have to buy from there, but at least you can get an idea what sort of prices are appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually recommended that you get the flywheel machined also, this is a service you can get from most transmission places. Depending on the condition of your flywheel you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; skip this part, but as I said it is the recommended practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to be aware of is that it is a non-trivial job to replace a clutch. It involves separating the gearbox from the engine because the clutch sits between the two, in order to do this one of those two items has to be removed from the vehicle, usually it’s the gearbox. Because of the amount of effort required to remove and subsequently refit a gearbox it is often appropriate to do other maintenance at the same time that can only be done when the gearbox is removed or is much easier accomplished when the gearbox is removed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are paying a mechanic to do a clutch replacement then the cost of labour will greatly outweigh the cost of parts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This makes a clutch replacement a great DIY job for a home mechanic because while it’s a time consuming job, it’s not a highly technical job and can be done with a fairly basic set of tools – the most specialised of which is probably a torque wrench. But if you are going to attempt to do a clutch replacement yourself for the first time, be aware that it’s a lot more complex than just changing your oil and spark plugs. Do your research, get hold of a workshop manual for your vehicle, read the clutch replacement section thoroughly. Also get someone else to give you a hand as it can be a tough job to do on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="649" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T05:37:11.117" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T05:37:11.117" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1140" CreationDate="2012-03-06T13:23:16.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best basic resource for a question like this is an objective publication that specializes in collecting exactly this sort of information.  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/models/used/subaru/impreza/overview.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Consumer Reports&lt;/a&gt; provides exactly this sort of information: be aware, it will cost money if you want full access to their website.  However, there's a good chance that they have the magazine at your local library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a meta level of knowledge to be gained by people who work on a particular brand of car regularly.  For example, reading what people have to say about modern Subarus was what drove me to buy the cars I have now.  Aside from the AWD, the fact that all Subarus are effectively the same fundamental design layout and engines wrapped in different bodies really appealed to me.  I don't find myself hunting around for a particular component: they all look the same once you pop the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your mechanic friend loves working on a particular type of vehicle, that's generally a good sign.  If they are always cursing about the special code reader that they can only use on a particular model year, perhaps that's an &quot;avoid&quot; signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T13:23:16.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:31:03.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to bypass your antitheft, you can attach one of your PATS keys inside your steering collumn by the lock cylinder. This will make the car always 'see' a key with a chip. You caqn then use a regular steel key. This is also a 'cheater' fix when installing remote starts on cars with PATS so you don't need to buy a module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:31:03.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:27:45.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your not worried about your radio presets besing saved, it would be a good idea to disconect the battery when your not using the vehicle. (if you are going a while inbetween trips) Also make sure you keep an eye on fluid levels and tire pressure, it is always a good idea to check these before driving especially if the vehicle has been sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T15:27:45.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:34:22.280" Score="7" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I just get a car wash every month, and my oil changed and whatever is included in that. Usually just a quick &quot;inspection&quot;. Is there anything else I should be doing for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or also, is there any general &quot;checks/inspections&quot; I should do on my own every so often? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I should replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:46:16.760" Title="What are some typical maintenance things that every owner should do regularily?" Tags="|engine|electrical|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|replace|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T15:38:47.067" Score="4" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Ford Taurus with less than 200,00km on it I don't want to spend too much on it but want to improve the fuel efficiency on it. I do mostly highway driving with a bit of city driving. Right now I am getting between 450-500km per tank, I do run my car before I get for about five minutes when its cold out so I know this doesn't help. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T16:34:48.553" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T16:34:48.553" Title="improving fuel efficiency in a 96 taurus" Tags="|fuel-consumption|taurus|dn101|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2980" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:06:28.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that you should always be guided by the maintenance schedule by the calendar set forth in your owner's manual.  It will have a detailed calendar based on your usage profile and setting forth major items based on miles or dates, depending on what's most appropriate.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1556/is-30k-mile-maintenance-really-required&quot;&gt;Using my car as an example&lt;/a&gt;, there's a moderately major service required at 30K miles, followed by a definitely major service at 60K miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T16:06:28.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2981" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:12:39.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the car, keep the tires set at the right pressure, check the alignment, check the brakes on a regular basis, empty any extra stuff out of the car.  As a driver, there are many articles that can be googled on how to get better mileage through various driving techniques.  Mostly they involve speed control and better planning ahead while driving.  Obviously, you already know one place that you're wasting fuel.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T16:12:39.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2981" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:14:35.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel efficiency gets brought up fairly frequently (for good reason).  Here are some of the things that I've pointed out in similar questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1355/57&quot;&gt;Engine size doesn't determine fuel efficiency.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1494/will-higher-octane-fuel-improve-gas-mileage&quot;&gt;Using the fuel with the correct octane rating is important.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/661/how-to-optimize-fuel-consumption-by-changing-the-rear-differential-ratio&quot;&gt;Making major changes to your car in the name of efficiency is usually not a good idea.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, to quote Jeremy Clarkson on the subject, &quot;It isn't what you drive that matters, it's how you drive it.&quot;  Considering that he managed to drive a Turbo Diesel Audi from London to Edinburgh and back on the same tank of fuel, I'm willing to give his tips due consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T16:14:35.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2980" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:24:00.503" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Bob says, formal servicing should always follow the manufacturer's schedule - Make sure to take into account any variations suggested for your location/climate/usage pattern. This should include routine things like oil and filter changes, as well as more major, but less frequent things such as timing belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of more general checks and inspections, you should check all the lights, wipers, fluid levels and tyres every week or two (depending on how much you use the car - one suggestion I've heard a few times is &quot;every time you fill the fuel tank&quot; as a rough guide). You should also check door, bonnet (hood), and boot (trunk)/tailgate hinges for squeaking or debris, as improper lubrication could cause the hinges to seize leading to body/paint damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipers should be replaced every 6 months or so, and tyres when they get down to around 3mm (1/8&quot;) of tread. Bulbs should be changed as soon as possible when they have failed - in many countries it is illegal to drive with any non-functioning lights on the car*. Any minor leaks found during these routine checks should be dealt with as soon as is sensibly possible, before they develop into major leaks! The exception to this is any leaks, however minor, in the brake hydraulics - if this occurs, unless you know what you are doing, stop using the car immediately and seek experienced help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually check brake pads slightly less frequently than this - about once a month or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some countries also require you to carry a full set of spare bulbs, and this is sensible regardless of where you are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T14:46:16.760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:46:16.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2980" CreationDate="2012-03-06T17:18:37.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should also check your battery condition every oil change especially if you live in an area with a cold winter, you will neeed a battery tester to do this. Along with fluid levelks you should check condition, if they're brownish or dirty coloured they will require a flush, you can also purchase a guage to test you coolant strength. (its quite inexpensive.) You should esprecially check your coolant to make sure its strong enough if your in an cold environment. Make sure to check your tire pressures monthly or if you have a decent fluctuation in temperature of the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T17:18:37.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T18:55:35.900" Score="3" ViewCount="43604" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owners manual for my 2007 Honda Odyssey seems to indicate that the timing belt should be changed at 60,000 miles for extreme driving conditions.  It's not clear what the schedule is for normal conditions.  I've heard 90,000, is that accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T06:40:02.450" Title="07 Honda Odyssey timing belt change interval for &quot;normal&quot; driving conditions?" Tags="|honda|scheduled-maintenance|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2987" CreationDate="2012-03-06T19:33:40.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual should have a section for &quot;normal&quot; as well as &quot;severe&quot;.  Given the expense of repairs on an interference engine (which I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; all Hondas are), I'd be inclined to replace it on the &quot;severe&quot; schedule unless I drove 20,000+ miles a year all highway.  Severe service &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; include cars that are not driven lots of miles in a year as some items (typically belts, hoses, tires) are time limited in addition to wear limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T19:33:40.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2981" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:15:24.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another easily checked and often forgotten item is the air filter.Also on the highway keep the windows up to decrease drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T01:15:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2012-03-07T02:39:13.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold it up towards the sun .If you canot see the light shine through, replace it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:39:13.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2993" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:08:14.933" Score="6" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got new tires today and saw that the part that's circled is broken on my car. It looks like it just snapped at the top because part of the bolt appears to still be in whatever the tube is. Anyone know the name of the thing circled in red? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I have a 2000 Ford Explorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAJn7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1585" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T23:21:10.970" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:18:20.740" Title="Trying to figure out the name of this car part!" Tags="|engine|tires|suspension|part-identification|un105|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:08:32.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iwould reccomend the chilton for a novice mechanic.They don't explain every item but they do explain what a novice mechanic is likely to attempt.Another issue with factory manuals is they assume a certain amount of knowledge on the part of the user. ie. The factory manual may state remove the negative battery cable while the chiltons would show which cable and how to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T03:08:32.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2991" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:47:18.950" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a Stabilizer Bar Link for your steering stabilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T03:47:18.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3006" CreationDate="2012-03-07T05:55:06.117" Score="4" ViewCount="2703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Zongshen 200gy-2 bike, that has of late developed a misfire if there is no throttle, like waiting at traffic lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has recently been serviced, but the spark plug has not been replaced.  The mechanic's comment was, &quot;checked and cleaned spark plug&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acceleration or high revs there is no misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions at to what can be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:08:58.917" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T06:09:41.480" Title="Single Cylinder 4 stroke misfire at idling rpm" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2994" CreationDate="2012-03-07T08:53:00.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried slightly raising the idle speed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often as engines age they become less stable at idle, generally through wear, so it can be worth tweaking the idle speed upwards a little to see if it solves your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T08:53:00.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2991" CreationDate="2012-03-07T13:35:39.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wakeeta is right: this is your stabilizer bar link (AKA sway bar link).  This is apparently a common failure point.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243367&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very similar picture&lt;/a&gt;.  A quick shopping search indicates that a replacement part is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mmp/ford~explorer~sway_bar~parts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on the order of $30&lt;/a&gt; (sweat equity not included).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T13:35:39.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T14:54:59.633" Score="14" ViewCount="28582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving an 2003 Acura TL 3.2 with 177K miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the car with 110K miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the car is not getting the same fuel economy that it did when I acquired it.  I used to be able to get 400 miles from a tank of highway driving, but I haven't seen my trip meter pass 400 miles on a single tank of gas in over a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live close to work, but frequently take trips &gt; 100 miles during the weekends, so the majority of my driving is highway driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With gas prices going up this summer, I've been wondering if there is any kind of service I could perform on the car that would likely improve its fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T10:59:36.177" Title="How to improve fuel economy in high-mileage car?" Tags="|maintenance|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|acura|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T15:13:50.237" Score="3" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Polo 9N, very basic (even has wind-up windows!) and was wondering if I could retrofit the MFD that the higher-spec models have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gareth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1587" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T03:51:18.947" Title="Can I add an MFD to my VW Polo?" Tags="|electrical|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2987" CreationDate="2012-03-07T15:24:49.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that the online Owner's Manual for your vehicle does not specify the mileage and rather defers to the Maintenance Minder feature of your vehicle. This is unfortunate, I can check the service manual later and see if it species whether the maintenance minder is hard coded or if it would produce variable recommendations like some other vehicles are starting to do based on programming around your driving characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, under normal driving conditons your maintenance minder should have you change the timing belt, get a major tune-up and have valves adjusted at 105K. It's a really big hit on maintenance... but after that you are fairly low maintenance until 210K!! (supposedly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our 1999 and 2005 Odyssey LX models this was the dealership recommendation for our driving type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T15:24:49.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2012-03-07T15:37:44.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key things you can to to keep your fuel economy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep it tuned up: for spark plugs and wires, go with the manufacturer recommended brands/default ranges. Additionally, you'll want to make sure you change the oil regularly, as sludgy oil will rob your motor of efficiency. Finally, a clean air and fuel filter will also go a long way to imrpoving fuel economy, as your motor doesn't have to work as hard to get the air and fuel it needs, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your car requires Premium fuel, use it. Failure to use 90+ on your Acura actually will negatively affect much more than mileage, other components designed around and relying on prolonged use of the higher octane fuel are going to cause fuel economy issues as time wears on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your transmission fluid changed and clean. Waiting until the fluid is spent will not go well for you since less than half of the fluid comes out in a change. If the fluid is spent (very dirty) then you have added expense of a case flush to get things back on the right path.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tires Matter. Use good tires. Cheap tires can be much noiser, wear more quickly and also not be designed for optimum fuel economy. See what the manufacturer recommends and stick with them. If you have changed to some sort of custom wheel/tire combination then fuel economy like you enjoyed on stock setup may be impacted. Proper inflation and rotation are also important.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additonally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mileage will vary with seasons - you should be prepared for your mileage to change in different seasons, especially in many larger metropolitan areas where fuel formulations are changed to meet EPA restrictions and recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your driving habits may be the greatest factor - being late for appointments, becoming more comfortable with the limits of your car, wanting to have more aggressive &quot;fun&quot;... they all come at a cost if you are using your car as the great equalizer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T01:56:42.243" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T01:56:42.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="426" CreationDate="2012-03-07T16:25:15.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original DEXRON was made from whale oil, which was banned. The initial replacement fluids were not ideal, and the subsequent formulations were addressing flaws in the earlier ones. So it's fine to put DEXRON VI or DEXRON III in most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to be careful of is mixing formulations. Some Chrysler transmissions in particular call for Chrysler-specific fluid, which must be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T16:25:15.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3431" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:41:22.010" Score="3" ViewCount="56320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the cost of labour varies dramatically from country to country, region to region, city to city and sometime even suburb to suburb it doesn’t make much sense to ask how much the labour portion of a clutch replacement should cost, but it does make sense to ask how many hours labour would be involved. &#xA;There are probably 4 different setups that may (or may not) have dramatically different answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Wheel Drive &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Wheel Drive &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transverse Engine All Wheel Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longitudinal Engine All Wheel Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for each of these setups (and any others I might have missed), Approximately how many hours of labour would a professional mechanic be charging for when doing a clutch replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there will be a fair amount of variance between different vehicles, but I’m just looking for some approximate guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T04:09:20.640" Title="Approximately how many hours of labour is involved in a clutch replacement" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-28T09:23:45.863" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-09T01:00:22.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2788" CreationDate="2012-03-08T02:18:33.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a Ford Taurus the problem finally was traced to the vehicle speed sensor after it failed completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T02:18:33.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2012-03-08T18:16:53.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mike mentioned in the comments without the specific make model the numbers won't do you much good. Professionals use a labor time guide to look up the amount of labor time to charge for a job. Labor time guides are used because times for a job vary wildly from on year to the next, engine size, make, model etc. Some vehicles will require the sub-frame and engine to be removed while others simply need the transmission slid back to replace the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head Two rear wheel drive examples 2000ish Chevy truck 3-4 hours, 1989 Porsche 944 14 hours. Now I realize those are extreme examples but this is why you need to know the make model year, engine size etc to get a number that will do you any good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T18:16:53.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2012-03-08T19:23:41.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what @rwheadon said, also consider replacing your wheel bearings and getting an alignment.  Not as simple as &quot;inflate your tires to the max recommended PSI&quot;, but not onerous either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T19:23:41.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2994" CreationDate="2012-03-08T19:32:08.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike has a carburetor, try cleaning the idle jet (well, just spray the whole intake throat with carburetor cleaner, it's in there somewhere).  If it's injected, then run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have a problem with a dirty air filter, but if the bike was just serviced I assume they would have checked that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also checked and clean all your ignition-related electrical connections, possibly when your generator output drops at low revs there's enough corrosion-induced resistance to affect your spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T19:32:08.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2012-03-08T21:11:00.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iwould say yes but only from the ecological point of view.Eliminating the solvents needed to clean the filter and the ease of replacement would be two strong points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T21:11:00.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-08T21:49:41.607" Score="2" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a large amount of data on crashes that have happened to answer the question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which old cars (specific models and years) are you most likely to survive a crash in?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you would have to normalize these judgements using data on how long each model/year has been on the road and how many of them there are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course with all this kind of data considered, such a ranking will still be &quot;contaminated&quot; with a lot of irrelevant factors that cannot be tracked, like how they were being driven at the time of the crash, and so many others.  But even so, without needing fancy statistical theory or rich data, we can at least say &quot;a car at the bottom of the list is probably less safe on average, discounting all other factors, than a car on the top of the list&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T23:17:43.603" Title="Crash survival data for old cars" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-08T22:38:22.497" Score="6" ViewCount="78211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2000 Honda Accord V6 with 140K miles and which is very well maintained and runs really nicely.&#xA;However, every once in a while when I start it it would do some erratic rpm changes on idle and then stall. If I manage to get it moving despite rpm drops, it runs great and would not stall again. Also, if I leave it for a while (like 15 minutes) and then come back, it usually starts like nothing happened.&#xA;For last 3 years it was doing it 3-5 times a year but now it started to happen more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried few times to raise idle RPM to 2K-4K and that ended up with CEL coming up. OBD codes would always be the same: P0300 (random misfire), P030X (Cylinder X misfire for X being any and all cylinders) and pending P1399.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Honda shop, when they saw those codes they said that according to procedure they need to replace fuel regulator and PCM and if it didn't help, injectors and some other things. Essentially they have no clue and I am reluctant to pay a lot of money just to experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced spark plugs and timing belt was replaced on schedule as well as all other maintenance requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am getting desperate and wonder if anyone had similar symptoms or an idea of what may cause the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1575" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T18:06:55.123" Title="Honda Accord 2000 V6 intermitently stalls when idling after start. What may cause it?" Tags="|accord|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-03-09T13:34:33.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a fuel delivery problem.  Replace the fuel filter and run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it.  If that doesn't fix it, then at least you know it's a more serious problem (probably a flakey FPR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T13:34:33.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2899" CreationDate="2012-03-09T13:49:43.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On such short trips you won't be getting the oil up to operating temperature, so you'll wind up with with some pretty nasty gunk which (as I understand it) will actually become corrosive.  I don't remember the chemistry, but apparently the combination of condensation and unburnt hydrocarbons forms (sulfuric? hydrofluoric?) acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is with your brakes.  Brake fluid absorbs water, which is heavier than the brake fluid and migrates to the lowest points in the system, which tend to be your calipers.  This can lead to rusting inside the calipers and stuck pistons.  This usually isn't a problem short term, but if you drive it like this for a year or more I'd worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T13:49:43.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2012-03-09T16:39:13.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some sort of a lock-tight compound inside that thread. I have already removed that screw in my V6 Accord twice. (Practically the same engine) The first time was a pain.&#xA;I have good socket spanners so instead of braking a socket I broke a, 1/2&quot; in diameter,  extension shaft. I used 5 feet long extension bars on both sides of a wrench - delivered torque was at least 240 kgm ( 1800 foot pounds). The screw did not even budge. &#xA;The fix - You have to use an acetylene torch on the head of the nut (NOT the wheel !!!)&#xA;Once you have the bolt glowing red hot use a good 1/2&quot; impact gun. That did the trick for me. The second time (after 5 years) removing the screw went without any problem - with just an impact gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1596" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T16:39:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:40:45.307" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing oil viscosity should be fine.  It isn't advised to mix oil brands though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T17:40:45.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2012-03-10T08:08:57.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some good points have been given already especially as far correct spark plugs and correct fuel go. Some other points, unfortunately, I can only describe as regurgitated 'car-care' sales drivel. I'm almost surprised that no one has mentioned that you should wax your car more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of things that are not worth your money and time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Changing oil more regularly that specified by your manufacturer. They knew about sludge formation when they specified the intervals, so that wont be issue. Do you really think that any change in fuel consumption due to slight changes in friction will cover the cost of the extra fuel? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air filter. Clogged air filters are an obstruction to airflow and reduce maximum power output. This doesn't translate to reduced economy because, unless your highway driving is very different to mine, you probably cruise with a much more extreme air intake restriction already. It's called a throttle valve. If tomorrow you replaced your clogged air filter with the best flowing air filter you can find, you may gain some power, but to cruise at the same speed you would have your throttle slightly more closed in order to achieve the same manifold pressure, and thus the same output torque as required for cruise. No gain in economy. Here's a source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/air_filter_effects_02_26_2009.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/air_filter_effects_02_26_2009.pdf&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter. Replace this as specified in your manual, as a blocked filter may case lean burning in wide open throttle, resulting in possible engine damage. However, if the filter was flowing so badly to affect fuel mixture at cruise (where something like 30hp is required) your engine would &lt;em&gt;misfire&lt;/em&gt; at full throttle. Extra consumption due to extra fuel pump work is not going to be measurable; it'll still be drawing  powerless than your headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tyres. Yes some tires are more efficient, but please do yourself a favour before dropping any money on new tyres and calculate how long at will take for the savings in fuel consumption to add up to the extra money you pay. I suspect that the answer will be longer than the service life of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to address possible reasons for your increase in mileage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some, if not most, of your loss of mileage is from irreversible engine wear. I'm sure you already know this. You've lost some compression due to piston ring and valve seat wear. You wont get that back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some losses in mileage that you can recover, but diagnosing the sources of the losses might be quite labour intensive, so it will probably only be worth doing if you do the diagnosis yourself. Buying an OBDII scanner is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the first things I would be looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen sensor. This is the sensor that the ECU uses to determine that the fuel/air ratio it thinks it is supplying to the engine is actually being supplied. It is usually the ECUs only &lt;em&gt;feedback&lt;/em&gt; about actual combustion. As they age oxygen sensors slow down in their response time and eventually the ECU will throw a Check Engine Light, but not until a significant drop in performance of the sensor has already occurred. There may be some sense in replacing an old O2 sensor before the CEL is thrown, however it may be a good idea to check its performance first. Here is a good resource on that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/feature/o2-sensor-testing.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/feature/o2-sensor-testing.htm&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Injector cleaning. Injectors slowly clog up and their flow rate is reduced with time. Unfortunately not all of them clog up at the same rate, causing some cylinders to run leaner that others. Because of the way oxygen sensors work even the slightest lean condition on one cylinder will cause the sensor to read lean, causing the ECU to run all of the other cylinders rich in compensation. Some people have had luck improving uneven injector delivery problems with concentrated over-the-counter fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank. Your (figurative) mileage may vary, but this may be a good place to start before delving into deeper diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Cruise speed is probably the biggest change to your driving behaviour that you can make. I almost doubled my mileage when I had to limp home 400km with almost no effective headlights after a nighttime kangaroo collision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T08:08:57.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2012-03-10T09:00:42.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an ex Ford IT guy.  Ford as well as all US auto makers are required to keep track of warranty related services and/or things that may effect warranty claims and the safety of people in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, it's a federal law called the TREAD ACT.  The TREAD ACT is the US government's oversight on safety related claims made by consumers against auto makers.  A claim being the simple act of bringing your vehicle in for a repair or recall work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transportation_Recall_Enhancement,_Accountability_and_Documentation_Act&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transportation_Recall_Enhancement,_Accountability_and_Documentation_Act&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically this.  You have a problem with your vehicle.  You report the problem to the automaker by taking it to a service shop affiliated with the auto maker; all dealers with service shops are affiliated but maybe private garages are not.  If what you need repaired is related to safety (seat belt broken) or is a warranty claim, it gets tracked in a database.  Not all warranty claims are safety issues but it would be difficult to keep the data separate which Ford does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OASIS is just the name of the client portion.  You have to understand that companies as large as Ford don't just have one or two databases with this information in it.  There are several systems that are queried and the results pulled together to get a final picture of your vehicle.  Some of these systems, for example, are called end of line data, as-built data.... There are different databases that collect various bits of information about a vehicle.  At least with Ford, they know every part number in a vechile as well as software running in the vehicle (part &amp;amp; software lineage).  Sales (who purchased a vehicle) is a separate database.  This is how they know who to mail recall notices too (which they outsource by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T09:00:42.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:13:19.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check your weep hole as per mike's answer. I'm a bit doubtful, though, because if it's leaking enough to be wet in the morning I would expect a puddle of some kind. I would also expect a squeal on hot starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squealing on a cold start on older cars is usually an accessory belt that has lost tension, especially if it momentarily comes back when the engine speed changes. You should check the belt's condition for cracks and if it's good re-tension the belt (unless it has a tensioner, most newer cars do). If the belt looks bad, or you have no idea when the belt was last changed you should probably replace the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A broken accessory belt will cause overheating, as the water pump is usually on the accessory belt. If you don't notice the overheating you could cause some really expensive damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the coolant loss: You should, like everybody else said, check for physical leaks in and under the engine bay. Try to find the pipes to the heater cores, and also look at the seams of the radiator. Do this when the engine is already warmed up, as some small leaks only show up when the cooling system is pressurized. If you can't find an external leak you might have a head gasket leak, which you might be able to get away with for a while, but will eventually have to be fixed with a very expensive repair bill. Keep an eye on that temperature gauge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T14:13:19.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:53:46.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the problem seems to go away if manage to get the car into gear and move, but not if you rev it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;fuel ressure regulator and PCM!?&quot; Sounds like they haven't bothered with the slightest bit of diagnosis. It sounds like a fuel pump problem to me. An electrical fuel pump problem at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you have a mechanical fuel regulator, so i wouldn't expect it to play up in such an intermittent way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be able to hear the pump running, normally, with careful strategic head placement. Once you find a spot where you can hear the pump, try to reproduce the problem and get someone to start the car while you listen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not running and you are handy with wiring &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/joinerswire-taps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tap&lt;/a&gt; the fuel pump positive side and see if it's getting 12V when the problem occurs. Keep the other end of the tap in the cabin. If it's getting 12V then you've narrowed it down to the pump. Otherwise move on to the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you get dirty with the diagnosis you might want to preemptively replace the fuel pump relay. These can fail in a temperature dependant way. Heat soak after you stop will probably be the highest temperature a relay in the engine bay will see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like Honda has had a lot of problems with relays failing when hot. Search &quot;2000 Honda Accord fuel pump relay&quot;. It looks like the main fuel (pump?) relay under the dash might be the culprit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080726065758AAU5oSn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; one guy that solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastEditorUserId="1576" LastEditDate="2012-03-10T17:42:47.430" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T17:42:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-10T16:32:30.230" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering for a list of good diy diagnostic, repair softwares (not obd).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of Autodata, Vivid and Mitchell on Demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else do you know? I am also looking for a software that will allow me to see every piece of specific engine, virtually dissemble it and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1598" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T06:56:29.133" Title="Diagnostic, diy repair guides, technical manuals" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="467" CreationDate="2012-03-11T17:17:12.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DO NOT PAY SOMEONE TO RESET THE BLINKING AIR BAG LIGHT!!!!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the driver’s door. Note the rubber covered button located low on the B pillar, a button which is pressed by the door when the door is closed. This is the Driver’s Door Switch (DDS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the ignition from OFF to ON. Press the DDS at least 5 times within 7 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON. Turn the ignition OFF. Close the driver’s door. Start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the airbag warning lamp is still on (or still flashing), there is a fault in the Supplemental Restraint System which must be diagnosed and repaired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T17:17:12.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3027" CreationDate="2012-03-11T20:02:03.667" Score="7" ViewCount="25552" Body="&lt;p&gt;This started to happen relatively recent.  It's 2003 Chevy Trailblazer.  What is happening when the engine is idling and I turn the A/C on or the defroster (which also uses the A/C I believe), the engine starts to bog down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this extra load on the engine?  What could it be in the compressor that is so much resistance?  Could it be that I just need to recharge my A/C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1602" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T16:59:32.637" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T06:24:42.940" Title="Engine Bogs down with A/C on highway" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|ac|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3024" CreationDate="2012-03-12T00:35:48.817" Score="0" ViewCount="2898" Body="&lt;p&gt;My relative has a Mirage circa 2000 with a &quot;Service engine soon&quot; light.  He showed it to his mechanic and he said that he doesn't know what is wrong with it and that the car needs to be taken to the dealership because the computer is probably broken.&#xA;When I popped the hood broken, I immediately saw that a hose is disconnected from the engine and when the car is running it is making hissing sounds.&#xA;I have no idea what this hose is but it is clearly visible in this picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Isisdivine/CIMG2161.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Isisdivine/CIMG2161.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(right of the oil cap)&#xA;So the questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) what is this hose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) did the mechanic miss it or does he know what he's doing and this hose is unlikely to result in &quot;check engine&quot; light going off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1603" LastEditorUserId="1603" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T02:29:29.493" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T02:47:35.443" Title="mitsubishi mirage check engine light" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3023" CreationDate="2012-03-12T02:47:35.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it will cause a check engine light.The hose is a vacum line for the PVC valve it is to  ventilate fumes out of the crankcase and burn them in the combustion process.If disconnected the air fuel mixture will become very lean.Too much air not enough fuel.After reconnecting it may take a few miles for the light to reset.The broken piece in the valve cover would be the PCV valve &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T02:47:35.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-12T08:43:10.850" Score="3" ViewCount="5309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=164463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RX-8 owners have been recommending installing an oil catch can&lt;/a&gt;, to prevent problems from &quot;overfilling&quot; the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this doesn't mean spillover (does it?), but instead, too much oil in the system.  The idea is that this oil can make it into the intake and cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does oil relate to the intake system and how does a catch can fix this problem?  Does this alleviate the risks of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/how-far-can-i-drive-with-1-gallon-too-much-oil&quot;&gt;filling the engine with too much oil&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1544" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:36:17.890" Title="What is an oil catch can for?" Tags="|oil|air-intake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3025" CreationDate="2012-03-12T09:20:38.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most, if not all, internal combustion engines have a breather on the crank case, to allow fumes to escape from the oil pan. In a lot of cars (presumably including the RX-8), this is vented into the inlet manifold to prevent the fumes being released into the atmosphere. Installing a catch can in this breather can prevent atomised oil evaporating up the breather and being burnt in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is that Rotary engines (as fitted to the RX-8) are notorious for oil-related problems, which IIRC can lead to the tips wearing away, leading to the engine requiring a rebuild sooner than it might otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T09:20:38.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3021" CreationDate="2012-03-12T11:05:12.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compressor is a considerable load on your engine. In order to stop the engine from bogging the A/C usually has a way of raising the idle by letting more air past the throttle body. This function is where I think your problem lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a separate solenoid specific to the A/C system with a (fairly hefty) vacuum line to both before and after the throttle body. I've seen this solenoid referred to as an A/C Idle Up Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) in some manuals, but Chevy's terminology may be different. If it is a separate solenoid, there will also be a separate idle-up solenoid for the power steering as well as for large electrical loads (headlamps, large electric fans, rear defroster). You should find this solenoid, verify that it's not working and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative, I guess, is that there is one ECU controlled valve that performs the idle-up function for all the systems that require it. In that case, unless your engine also bogs at other times, I would suspect the electrical pathway that informs the ECU of the compressor operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please update your question as you find out more, and I'll add to this answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T11:05:12.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3032" CreationDate="2012-03-12T13:36:30.023" Score="-2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn your car steering wheel, does it turn all four wheels or two wheels in front or at the back? How can you learn to steer properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1605" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:31:42.933" Title="Car steering wheel question" Tags="|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-03-13T13:10:27.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3018" CreationDate="2012-03-12T14:21:25.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a Hyundai, they make all of their repair procedures, schematics, etc. available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hmaservice.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hmaservice.com&lt;/a&gt; (you must view this in IE btw) - I haven't seen this type of data available for free from any other manufacturers though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has really nice auto repair videos for car repair for your exact model: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcarekiosk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carcarekiosk.com&lt;/a&gt; - it's for basic stuff like headlight bulbs, cabin air filters, etc., but the videos are very helpful and free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the website of your local library, often they have a subscription to pay sites that are free to access if you enter your library car number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1606" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T14:21:25.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3031" CreationDate="2012-03-12T15:59:22.510" Score="7" ViewCount="3045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in need of new tires and I saw some fuel efficient/low rolling resistance tires. Is there any disadvantage to this type of tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:10:06.087" Title="Are there any disadvantage to fuel efficient tires?" Tags="|tires|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2012-03-12T16:21:47.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any tyre design is a balance between cost, grip, longevity, water displacement and rolling resistance. Change one, and chances are you'll adversely affect the others...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would always put grip and water displacement (which affects wet grip) above all the others on a priority list. The difference between those &quot;fuel efficient&quot; tyres and normal ones will probably be only a couple more miles per gallon, but if they don't grip as well, don't last as long or cost more to buy, that small saving will quickly vanish...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T16:21:47.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2012-03-12T17:31:42.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.  However, &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; cars turn the 2 wheels at the front.  A few turn all 4 (typically the rear steer portion is much smaller angle than front though).  Rear only steering is very rare, typically just seen in task specific trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as learning how to steer properly, practice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:31:42.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3025" CreationDate="2012-03-12T17:36:17.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically it's to catch the blow-by.  While the PCV system is designed to vent just air/fumes as Nick C mentions, as an engine wears it'll start to blow some liquid oil past.  That's normally redirected to the intake so it'll burn off (as oppposed to just dripping it on the ground like the old cars used to).  Car enthusiasts like to install catch cans (that need to be periodically emptied) to catch the oil before it goes in and contaminates the intake.  While nice to not get oil all over your intake, it's primarily done on turbocharged cars to prevent the oil from working its way into the intercooler.  An intercooler that's collecting oil doesn't work as efficiently...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:36:17.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3036" CreationDate="2012-03-12T20:19:26.200" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what are those two big plates on both sides of this engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX8YQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T23:37:15.190" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:43:37.413" Title="What are those big plates on both sides of the steam engine?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2012-03-12T23:24:50.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some thing I have noticed about fuel efficient tires is they generate a lot of static electricity in cold dry climates.It can get so bad that most times I touch my key to the door prior to getting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:24:50.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3034" CreationDate="2012-03-12T23:43:37.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_deflectors&quot;&gt;Smoke deflectors&lt;/a&gt;. From Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...designed to lift smoke away from the locomotive at speed so that the driver has better visibility...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:43:37.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2012-03-12T23:46:44.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends a little on your driving style and the typical conditions in your area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a lot of rain, snow or ice, or you like to drive or corner at speed - don't use them. Go for high grip tyres. You are better off playing it safe than cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live somewhere dry, with little traffic, and like to drive slowly - they could be good for you, but won't save you a huge amount. You might be better off just inflating your tyres by a couple of extra psi - this will reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:46:44.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2012-03-13T09:05:11.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bubble balancer is only able to balance the tire in one plane, as if it were a flat disc.  A dynamic balancer is able to detect and correct for balance in both that plane as well as the axial dimension.  You'll notice that wheels balanced on a dynamic machine often wind up with weights added on both the inside and outside of the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T09:05:11.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:01:24.583" Score="0" ViewCount="6781" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day we stopped for lunch for about an hour on a long trip in a 2012 Honda Accord EX-L 4 cylinder. When we came back the battery had drained so much the car had to be jump started. The headlights were not on (but even if they were, 1 hour is not usually enough to drain batter that far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 3 months old and at 5k-miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer has checked and cannot find any issue. It has been running fine ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone know what might have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="1610" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T01:05:20.593" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T21:43:21.073" Title="Sudden battery drain in brand new Accord" Tags="|honda|battery|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3042" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:32:59.940" Score="0" ViewCount="12163" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an engine that is boosted out of the factory, what are typical maximum and average boost values? Are they conservative in the 5-6 PSI range or do they get more aggressive getting up to 10-15 PSI? I'm more interested in what OEMs are doing with undersized engines to make them driveable versus more sporty performance enhancements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T01:04:22.967" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T18:42:02.853" Title="Typical Stock Boost Values" Tags="|turbocharger|compression|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:43:30.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question doesn't provide enough information for us to answer it well as originally written.  Some of the important factors determining what boost level is used include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base compression rate of the engine (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/498/static-vs-effective-compression-why-does-higher-effective-compression-not-requ&quot;&gt;see this question&lt;/a&gt; for related discussion).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Octane of the fuel to reduce the risk of detonation (see point 1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature and humidity of the ambient air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature of the air after it passes through the intake path.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The application and related requirements such as reliability and longevity (a race car does not live as long between rebuilds as my daily driver).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more specific question would help us address your particular points of interest.  Which vehicle are you interested in?  Are you thinking of upping the boost?  What application to you plan to put this vehicle to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0837601606&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corky Bell's book&lt;/a&gt; to be an excellent (and entertaining) reference for background information on all of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T19:43:30.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:14:39.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a wide variation, but back in the '90's it was clustered in the 10-12psi range for a &lt;em&gt;typical&lt;/em&gt; 4-cyl turbocharged performance model.  Nowadays 16-18psi is not abnormal for high performance factory cars.  Of course, you'll find some economy cars in the 5-6psi range, where they're using boost to let a little tiny fuel-efficient engine not be completely miserable to drive.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T20:14:39.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T00:56:24.180" Score="3" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used my winter tires for ten years.  They were used only for one winter.  Are they still good?&#xA;  Tread is good but has the rubber been affected by long storage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1611" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T01:23:12.333" Title="Usability of Unused Winter Tires" Tags="|tires|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3043" CreationDate="2012-03-14T01:23:12.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the rubber has been compromized by ozone in the air and ultraviolet light even if stored indoors.That is why you will often see RV's with covers over the tires to extend the life of the tire.Strategic Safety reccomends useful life is 10 years from manufactureSome European manufacturers reccomnd six years on performance tires.Typically when these tires have age related failure it is catastrophic and without warning.I would think it is not worth the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T01:23:12.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2012-03-14T01:42:07.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of cases where low quality,I hesitate to use the word cheap have actually had porosity issues.The air is leaking through the aluminum casting.Most of the time is spent looking at the tire and the bead area and the leak is on the back side that was not sprayed with a clear finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-03-15T19:52:27.563" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T19:52:27.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="68" CreationDate="2012-03-14T01:54:30.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may also just be a miss-adjustment of the shift linkage. The cable linkage for the shifter is adjustable and does sometimes slip or stretch. Work it into reverse, loosen the adjustable bolt on the linkage, go back into the driver's seat and pull the gear shift back a tiny bit, then re-tighten the adjustment bolt. It's much easier with two people. If it's only reverse, it's probably the side-to-side cable. Wiggle the shifter while watching the linkage (two people, remember?) and it will be obvious which one to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T01:54:30.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2012-03-14T02:00:55.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do nothing. Short trips are damaging for two reasons: fuel economy and engine wear. But unlike a gas car, excess &quot;choke&quot; fuel in a diesel doesn't strip lubrication from the cylinder walls. And as long as the engine gets up to operating temps every third or fourth trip, your oil won't accumulate water and lose lubricity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will burn more fuel per mile on short runs, but it won't damage the car the way you are describing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T02:00:55.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2012-03-14T02:59:26.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob Cross's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And those are just the factors that are easy to quantify! There's also the combustion chambers' individual propensity to knock determined by geometry with spooky attributes like squish, tumble and swirl to consider. Then there is cycle to cycle variability and the effect of carbon deposits over the life of the engine, which will be different for each individual engine, let alone different models. I think reading any of engineering literature on knock would dissuade anyone from trying to give numbers for such an open ended question, even if a displacement and compression ratio was specified. It's much more complicated than not exceeding a temperature threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think reading something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Internal_combustion_engine_fundamentals.html?id=u9FSAAAAMAAJ&amp;amp;redir_esc=y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heywood&lt;/a&gt;'s chapter on &quot;Combustion in Spark Ignition Engines&quot; gives a lot of insight into these factors. I'm assuming, of course, that you want the deeper insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T02:59:26.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2782" CreationDate="2012-03-14T06:50:34.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could very well be your motor mounts, if indeed your bushings and shocks needed replacement. The rubber on motor mounts tends to harden and crack and in turn you will get more vibration, movement and noise from the engine. I'd check that before going any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1614" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T06:50:34.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3039" CreationDate="2012-03-14T06:53:58.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had this same issue with my last car, I even took it in to an electric shop and they couldn't pinpoint the problem. Low and behold after many head scratching days and hair pulling nights I found it to be a problem with a misplaced fused in the fuse-box under the dash. One of the fuses was inserted wrong, between two sockets, which meant there was an open draw on the electric current at all times, draining the battery in less than an hour consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that out, might be your problem as well. Other than that I'd check to see if you have any audio or aftermarket electronic devices incorrectly installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1614" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T06:53:58.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2012-03-14T07:02:06.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is any kind of divot or crack on the windshield, even brand new wipers will leave streaks since the windshield could be off balance or the crack could be cutting into the surface of the wiper creating an uneven surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1614" LastEditorUserId="1614" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T07:46:49.550" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T07:46:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T08:44:36.827" Score="1" ViewCount="45984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having this problem for some time now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually in 2nd (and mostly 3rd) and higher gears, when gas pedal is completely pressed to the end, the car is accelerating, but when it reaches about 2100-2500rpm, the accelerating power drops for a half a second and the continues to rise normally. I took the car to the dealer but the told me it is ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really hard to show the problem to mechanic because it happens not 100% of the time - sometimes the drop is milder, sometimes it feels like brake is pressed. Could this be issue with electric or engine mechanics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is Mazda 3, 2.0 petrol, 6 gear manual transmission, manufactured 2007, odomoter 130000km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T13:03:18.540" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T09:01:16.843" Title="Mazda 3 on acceleration drops engine power" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2012-03-14T09:50:12.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you change your behaviour in any other way? - Perhaps time your shopping trips to coincide with your drive home from work to make that journey long enough to warm the engine up fully (and save another separate journey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the work journeys you do like? Are they long enough to get the engine properly warmed up? If not, try and get out for a good long run every few days to get it properly warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, use a good quality oil and good filters, and change it regularly (look for the &quot;harsh conditions&quot; service schedule in your car's handbook)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T09:50:12.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3053" CreationDate="2012-03-14T10:25:48.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first major symptom that appears when spark plug gaps get too big (from wear) is that you get a band of hesitation only at full throttle and somewhere well below peak torque. This is the band where the most voltage is required for a successful spark, because at this time mixture is most dense. Below this band the mixture is less dense because less mixture is drawn in with each stroke. Above this band the mixture is less dense because the spark occurs earlier in cycle (spark advance). The result is that this is the first rpm at which old plugs will misfire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2100-2500rpm seems about right, but I don't know your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your spark plugs, or if you don't like (buying) wire gauges just replace your spark plugs. Cracked high tension leads also reveal themselves in this same rpm band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to look at sensors, but I'll wait for you to confirm that your plugs and leads are fine before going further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T10:25:48.453" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2012-03-14T15:57:49.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part is the carrier plate aka jetta trunk bracket aka actuator bracket. The part number is 1J5827425E. Check ebay...Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1617" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T15:57:49.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3008" CreationDate="2012-03-14T22:10:38.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Websites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-fars.nhtsa.dot.gov/Vehicles/VehiclesAllVehicles.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NHTSA&lt;/a&gt; might be able to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T22:10:38.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3077" CreationDate="2012-03-15T00:26:37.257" Score="5" ViewCount="32811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;strong&gt;1999 Mazda 626&lt;/strong&gt; that shakes really badly when idling. It gets a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; better when put into neutral, but not much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had two people suggest possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started happening in the last year or so. It started out being a mild shake when stopping at a stop light, but in the past 6 months or so it's any time the car is not moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car hasn't needed much maintenance recently, but in the last year I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil changes ever 3-4,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced all spark plugs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the radiator&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the front brakes (I know this probably has nothing to with anything, but it is something that's been done)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that's it. Also - it seems to get marginally better when I add a quart of oil to it (it leaks a little oil, that's another issue for another day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not done much troubleshooting on this or taken it to a mechanic. I wanted to get some insight on things I could start with or try. I don't mind spending a little bit of money on easy fixes that may or may not resolve the issue, but that wouldn't be bad for the car either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the RPM at which it idles:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLg3o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T12:57:28.383" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T21:24:59.567" Title="1999 Mazda 626 Shakes when Idle" Tags="|mazda|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3068" CreationDate="2012-03-15T14:56:09.387" Score="7" ViewCount="18684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD. The main belt constantly squeaks, it did not start squeaking until after I had my water pump and heater hoses replaced. The shop has replaced the belt 8 times over the last 2 months, and the squeak goes away for a little bit, then comes back. The shop mentioned that a pulley might be going bad, so I asked them to check it out. They said it wasn't a pulley and put another belt on it. It has started squeaking again. Does anyone have any idea as to what would be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1447" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T04:28:08.547" Title="Constant belt squeak" Tags="|belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3067" CreationDate="2012-03-15T15:04:26.600" Score="2" ViewCount="94011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes will stay in the car for extended periods with music player, parking lights turned on and engine turned off. I was wondering how long can the car battery survive this load. Should I be worried about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T23:25:29.667" Title="How long does a typical car battery survive without recharging?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3064" CreationDate="2012-03-15T15:11:19.177" Score="10" ViewCount="5747" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question says, does filling pure nitrogen has any significant advantages, given the fact that normal air is ~80% nitrogen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T02:44:00.227" Title="What are the advantages of filling nitrogen instead of &quot;normal&quot; air in the car tyres?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3063" CreationDate="2012-03-15T16:55:13.140" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always been my understanding that it eliminates the water vapor making the heat have less and more predictable effect on tire pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are driving a race car or an airplane I don't think it's worth the trouble IMO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some more information I have listed and sourced below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's not about the nitrogen. It's about reducing oxygen, water vapor&#xA;  and other gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By reducing the percentage of oxygen, water vapor and other gases in&#xA;  your tires from 22% to 7% or lower, your tires will maintain proper&#xA;  pressure longer than if you use “plain old air.” For example, with 95%&#xA;  nitrogen in your tires, they retain optimal pressure three to four&#xA;  times longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getnitrogen.org/why/index.php&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fundamentally; air, oxygen and nitrogen will all behave exactly the&#xA;  same in terms of pressure change for each 10 degrees of temperature&#xA;  change. However temperature alone is not the whole story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ambient air contains moisture, nitrogen does not. If moisture is&#xA;  present it contributes to a greater change in pressure simply because&#xA;  at lower temperatures water condenses to become a liquid. The liquid&#xA;  form of water occupies very little volume and contributes only a&#xA;  negligible pressure to the tire. But at higher temperatures, such as&#xA;  those in a running tire, water evaporates inside the tire and becomes&#xA;  a gas which increases pressure in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ambient air contains about 21% oxygen. Oxygen’s smaller molecular size&#xA;  allows it to permeate through the rubber of the tire. By inflating&#xA;  with nitrogen, which is much less permeable than oxygen, the pressure&#xA;  changes due to oxygen loss are greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The racing industry is correct; nitrogen is more predictable. Because&#xA;  nitrogen is dry it has no moisture to contribute extra pressure&#xA;  changes with temperature. Because nitrogen permeates out much slower&#xA;  than oxygen pressure changes due to that leakage are almost eliminated&#xA;  compared with ambient air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Let’s get a little deeper into the science. Keep in mind that the air&#xA;  in your tires changes about 1psi for every 10 degree temperature&#xA;  change. This means that a significant change in temperature will&#xA;  create a significant change in your tire pressure. Here is a set of&#xA;  Ideal Gas Law calculations showing the effects of a 10F degree&#xA;  temperature change on truck and passenger tires. The two sets of data&#xA;  represent different initial temperatures of 60F and 90F. This&#xA;  demonstrates that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation differs&#xA;  depending on initial conditions but only slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getnitrogen.org/sub.php?view=nascar&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T16:55:13.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3061" CreationDate="2012-03-15T19:32:28.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a new shop. It takes a special kind of incompetence to try the same thing 8 times and expect different results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A squeal can be caused by misaligned pulleys, although I've never experienced it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trucktrend.com/features/advice/163_1010_truck_trend_garage_1997_gmc_sierra_belts/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link describing this on an older Sierra where the power steering pulley is misaligned. Maybe the same deal is possible your water pump pulley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to look at is the automatic belt tensioner. Read about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Replacing these seems common enough that multiple youtube videos were the first hits when I googled &quot;gmc sierra belt tensioner&quot;. Go figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T19:32:28.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:16:28.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question can only be answered if you determine the load that is being put on the batteryand the load capacity of the battery.I have run the radio in my truck for two hours and it started without a problem.I have seen a luxury car with 12 or 14 interior lights run a battery down in 90 minutes from a door left open.Most original equipment radios draw very little current so that isn't much of an issue.What can be of concern is if you repeatedly drain the battery with powerful stereos,lights,powerwindows etc.  then recharge it by running the engine. it will shorten the batterys' life along with the alternators'.That being said if the alternative is to idle the engine adding wear to the engine, batteries are cheaper than engine overhauls.If what you are doing is sitting for 10 or 15 minutes listening to the radio it really should not be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T13:16:13.810" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T13:16:13.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2012-03-16T01:36:15.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heavy duty truck battery in my car, and I can run a 640 Watt stereo system all day and all night, with the interior lights on without having any problems starting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once I accidentally left the lights on for two weeks while on holiday, and the battery was flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those two datum points give an idea of the expected life (the truck batter is about twice the rated capacity of the normal car ones - which is why I bought it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T01:36:15.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3061" CreationDate="2012-03-16T02:56:54.757" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very carefully hold a large crayon,yellow works best, like a lumber yard might use against the edge of the belt while the motor is running.If the squeel stops you know its an alignment problem.The wax in the crayon will lubricate the belt and stop the noise.Try one side then the other.If you are lucky the yellow will be left on the misaligned pulley and show whether it is pushed in or out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-03-17T15:13:05.300" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T15:13:05.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3272" CreationDate="2012-03-16T11:36:53.160" Score="6" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a new motor bike recently.  What are the critical maintenance items that I should focus on?  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it true that we should not run new bikes on high rpm for some time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the basic pieces that I should keep an eye on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I maintain my bike to give good fuel economy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1522" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T11:26:12.057" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:34:34.567" Title="What are the critical maintenance items for a new motorcycle?" Tags="|maintenance|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2012-03-16T12:02:32.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer is to follow the manufacturers guidlines in the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T12:02:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2012-03-16T14:22:25.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know every vehicle is a little different, but there's a drive in movie theater close by to where I live.  Most vehicles there have no problems leaving the stereo on for 2 hours and then starting the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T14:22:25.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5681" CreationDate="2012-03-16T15:11:01.273" Score="8" ViewCount="23197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Dodge Durango, and the passenger-side brake light will not work, even after replacing the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulb that I replaced was obviously burned out. I double-checked the new bulb, and it looks fine. I checked the connectors on the inside of the bulb housing, and it looks fine as well--very clean. I thought about a fuse, but figured if it was the fuse, all the brake lights would stop working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tail-lights work fine, as do the signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1497" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T17:23:59.053" Title="One brake light not working - 2001 Dodge Durango" Tags="|dodge|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2012-03-16T15:14:04.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I saw that problem it ended up being the socket on the vehicle.  Could also potentially be wiring of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T15:14:04.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2012-03-16T17:30:56.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to find the code but cannot find any documentation of it, if you take it to your local Ford dealer they can hook up their computer to it to let you know what the code is. Unfortunatly it has to be the Ford computer system so even if you have an after market one it will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T17:30:56.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2012-03-16T22:49:39.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible solution to your a/c smell is to change the pollen filter as they tends to clog after some time. It should be changed annually, hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1625" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:00:32.120" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:00:32.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2012-03-16T22:54:45.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replace the blades and it makes no difference, it could be a worn spring in the wiper arm(s).  Especially on an older vehicle or arm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1625" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T03:53:53.220" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T03:53:53.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2012-03-17T10:33:58.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there are many, many things that can cause a rough idle. I'll try to cover a few things that might help with the diagnosis. I'm sure that there are many others that could be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like I mentioned in my comment, it's definitely not the fuel filter. If a fuel filter was bad enough to affect idle it would stall instead of accelerate. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A vacuum leak is definitely a possibility since your car has a MAF sensor. In this case I would expect it to be worse in neutral, as a bigger percentage of the air goes unmetered, but I could be wrong about that. Vacuum leaks are quite painful to track down, but many have found that a mechanics stethoscope with an open hose at the end can be helpful in tracking them down. If there are a lot of vacuum hoses that you can't really reach you could also just replace them, they're not very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Injectors get clogged over time, but not always at the same rate. This could cause a misfire in the cylinder with the worst (or possibly best) injector. Try some fuel injector cleaner. This is added to the fuel tank and I would use it more concentrated than suggested on the product, or at the maximum concentration if they specify one. You can also have your injectors removed and professionaly cleaned, in which case they also measure how well each injector is flowing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycling) is not meant to be happening during idle. Sometime the EGR valve can stick open causing a rough idle. I'm not sure if theres a way to determine if this is happening without disassembly, but it is something to investigate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raising the idle will hide the problem. Obviously this is not related to diagnosis but it is an option if you are unwilling to spend the time and money to find and fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T10:33:58.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-18T00:09:37.553" Score="6" ViewCount="5828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to associate a new key fob with a 2006 Corvette.  Accroding to the user's manual it reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To match a new transmitter to your vehicle when you have a recognized&#xA;  transmitter (two recognized transmitters are required for Canadian&#xA;  owners), do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The vehicle must be off.   Have the recognized and new, unrecognized&#xA;  transmitters on your person.   Go to the rear of the vehicle and&#xA;  insert the vehicle key into the key cylinder located above the license&#xA;  plate. See Hatch for more information on the key cylinder.   Open the&#xA;  trunk.   Turn the key five times within five seconds.   The DIC will&#xA;  display READY FOR FOB #X, where X can be 2, 3 or 4.   Place the new,&#xA;  unrecognized transmitter in the glove box transmitter pocket with the&#xA;  buttons facing towards the passenger's side.   Once the transmitter is&#xA;  programmed, a beep will sound. The DIC will display READY FOR #X,&#xA;  where X can be 3 or 4, or MAX # FOBS LEARNED.   Press the ACC button&#xA;  (ignition switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is that after turning the key five times within five seconds, my DIC (Driver Information Center) does not display the READY FOR FOB #X.... message at all.  Hoping someone reading this can help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;                    UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally figured this out.  Things not mentioned in the manual that you need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car must be in Reverse if it's a manual transmission and it must be in Reverse while shutting it off.  I think the on board computer writes to internal flash memory during power mode going off and when it does, have the car in Reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had two dead key fobs.  One with a &quot;1&quot; and one with a &quot;2&quot; on the back side.  I made sure the one with the &quot;2&quot; was in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the rear hatch with the key and leave it in the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open driver side door and leave it open.  I put the &quot;1&quot; fob into the glove box with the buttons facing the passenger side door.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Still with driver door open, I turned the key in the cylinder very rapidly and well within the 5 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here is the tricky part that doesn't seem documented anywhere... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have to wait.  Wait roughly 30 seconds and my DIC finally gave the message ACCESSORY - OFF message.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I push the ACC button down (not up) and I get the message NO FOBS found.  This is also not mentioned in the manual or online anywhere.  My DIC would then go dark and I kept thinking it was not working but it just so happen I waited roughly a minute and the DIC lit back up and finally showed the AUTO LEARN in 10 minute message.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You then follow the directions in the manual as specified.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last step in the manual says to push ACC when done.  I found after that step my FOBs that I programmed still did not work until I locked and unlocked the door with the buttons on the fob.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had two fobs.  When I got the message FOB#1 was done and it asked for FOB#2, I took FOB#1 with me into the house and left it out of range when I came back with FOB#2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps someone else...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastEditorUserId="1113" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T03:18:17.703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T02:19:05.830" Title="2006 Corvette Key Fob" Tags="|chevrolet|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3095" CreationDate="2012-03-18T07:14:08.437" Score="4" ViewCount="27044" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 80,000 mile 2.0TFSI Turbo Audi has lost a lot of performance but produces no check-engine-light (CEL) or codes.  One month ago an independent garage looked at it and did $2200 of work including transmission fluid, air and fuel filters, new sparks etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got it back it was fixed, and boosting with a healthy &lt;em&gt;sssh&lt;/em&gt; on acceleration from 2200 RPM, which lasted for about 6 days and then suddenly back to poor performance or worse, and no noise from the turbo except at 6000 when high pitched whistle/whine evident.  Fuel economy seems really bad - about 15MPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it back to garage for smoke test, vac test etc. but still no CEL or codes. They say it's boosting at 7psi, but that they feel a lack in performance. I guess they used a physical gauge, but I don't know how or where they took that reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/?keywords=plx+kiwi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PLX kiwi&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dashcommander&lt;/a&gt;, and am trying to find a holy grail in the numbers.  I don't know how to use this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't read Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP), sadly, because I suspect a leak.  Don't know if it's missing, broken, not in this model car or what.  &lt;em&gt;update&lt;/em&gt; vag-com reads it fine, must be a problem with my software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right hand curve below is me accelerating from 10 to 45 in 10 seconds, throttle mostly open, then foot off the accelerator.  I max out at 4870rpm and 20lb! of (dashcommand estimated) boost  and lambda hits .7, HP hits 97.  It's supposed to be a 200 hp car :-(.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02qcj.png&quot; alt=&quot;graph of two burst of acceleration - I&amp;#39;m describing the second&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trim Long term is +5%.  I don't understand how that tallies with .7 lambda.&#xA;Driver information system indicates fuel economy is about 15mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about cars, but turbo working, fuel trim adjusting for lean burn, good MAF... Suggests the turbo is firing up, but somehow not resulting in engine power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent services: I had 2 coil packs replaced about 4-6 months ago, may be unrelated to this fault.  I have not replaced the timing belt.  Brakes and tires all replaced 3 months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do people suggest to fix and or diagnose? Don't want to replace the turbo if it's just a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can charge air sensor tell me a MAP that might show air leaks between the MAF and the manifold? (answer - that's the right sensor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1626" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T09:19:26.750" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T00:10:21.383" Title="Audi A4 2007 2.0T boosts but poor performance, fuel economy" Tags="|performance|audi|turbocharger|a4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-20T13:45:25.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3079" CreationDate="2012-03-18T15:30:58.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't rule out a bad MAF so quickly - there was a generation of VW and AUDI MAFs that slowly went south without any indication from the ECU that they were doing so and IIRC the ECU managed to compensate for the dying MAF for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the ECU thinks you might be boosting at 15psi and using a conventional gauge suggests you're boost 7psi, you either have a massive boost leak or a duff sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the fuel trim it +5 (what unit is that, percent?) and not negative suggests to me that you get more air into the engine than is accounted for and the ECU is adding fuel to get the fuel ratio back to stoich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters I'd pull the plugs and check if they look like the engine is running rich, lean or normal. That should give you at least a basic idea if the problem is upstream or downstream of the engine. Basically the idea is that if the plugs look like the engine is running really rich, you might have a problem with the O2 sensor(s), if they look like the engine is running normal there's a decent chance that the problem is upstream of the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T15:30:58.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2853" CreationDate="2012-03-18T18:10:45.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reset switch for the fuel pump on GM cars. That's more of a Ford thing, they have them on almost if not all of their cars. There may be other manufacturers that do the same thing but GM is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always thought the reason Ford did it was because of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Pinto#Fuel_tank_controversy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinto fiasco in 1977&lt;/a&gt;, but I couldn't find any supporting documentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main relay and the fuel pump relay would be an easy check as the possible problems. The next step is to confirm that you are not getting any fuel. Spray carburetor cleaner or starting fluid into the intake while attempting to start the vehicle. If the engine runs while you are spraying it in and stops when you do then it's definitely a fuel problem and more testing of the fuel system and components is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T18:19:40.557" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:19:40.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3061" CreationDate="2012-03-18T20:44:51.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All very good answers to this question, but the recent work brings up another possibility. Many belts will start to squeal if they come into contact with even one drop of coolant. The cooling system should be pressure tested to see if any of the hoses or the water pump were improperly installed. A slow leak would explain the 24 hours before the squeal returns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T20:44:51.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2012-03-18T21:03:29.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this an automatic or a manual? The idle speed should be higher for an automatic. Do you have an engine light on? A bad misfire will sometimes turn one on, because your emissions go up with a misfire. (Unburnt fuel is being sent into the exhaust, which can destroy your catalytic converter.)&#xA;Either way, this car is new enough to have a scan tool plugged into it. A technician should be able to see from that if you are getting misfires, or if your MAP reading is wonky, or if your EGR is stuck. &#xA;Or you could just start replacing parts until you accidentally fix it. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T21:03:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2905" CreationDate="2012-03-19T02:28:07.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the key can unlock a door, but cannot start the car (while another key can), it is most likely a security mechanism in the key and/or keyfob (real/original one).&#xA;I have first (and second hand) experience of this happening in Honda Odyssey's (i think it was a 2002).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T02:28:07.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3063" CreationDate="2012-03-19T02:44:00.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;air leaks through rubber over time.&#xA;nitrogen is much less likely to leak.&#xA;while properly inflated tires can improve your gas mileage, making sure you tire pressures are ok is much more economical than buying nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;its also doubtful that you are getting pure (or even close to pure) nitrogen either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/4302788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/4302788&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T02:44:00.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3087" CreationDate="2012-03-19T06:55:02.213" Score="1" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 03 Passat with 1.8t engine I recently purchased.  The indicator light went off and reads the error code P2181 which I've read might be the temp sensor, thermostat, or water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe for me to drive 30 miles to work as long as I keep an eye on the temperature gauge? Can I trust the temperature gauge to tell me if it's overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather take care of it after work rather than losing pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1630" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T16:03:05.337" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T16:03:05.337" Title="safe to drive with coolant system error code" Tags="|vw|coolant|cel|passat|p2181|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2012-03-19T10:17:51.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't risk it. If the water pump fails you can easily cook the engine, leading to no end of problems (failed head gasket, warped head, etc). The temperature gauge will only give you an accurate reading if the coolant is flowing through the engine - if it isn't you will end up with hot spots very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of modern cars have an ecu-controlled temperature gauge as well, which means it tells you what the ecu wants you to see, not an accurate reading of the temperature (often characterised by the gauge constantly pointing to the same point in normal driving rather than fluctuating slightly with driving conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T10:17:51.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3089" CreationDate="2012-03-19T14:49:09.883" Score="9" ViewCount="57724" Body="&lt;p&gt;By mistake, I left the headlights on overnight for my Honda Civic 2008. 24 hours later when I tried to start it, the car would not start and nothing would come on including the internal lights and the dashboard LEDs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later AAA guy came and jump started the car and I drove it around for around 30 minutes. Today when I tried to start the car, it did not start up. Though the internal lights and dashboard LEDs are lit up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if the battery has to be replaced? Or that it just needs another jump start and a good warm-up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="826" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T05:56:18.263" Title="How do I know if my car battery is dead?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2012-03-19T14:59:57.783" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends where you drove, it might simply be an issue with the battery needing more of a charge than your trip could give it. That said, regular car batteries don't take too kindly to deep discharging and if it was fairly old and nearing the end of its life already, it might have just pushed it over the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd put the battery on a decent charger until the charger reports that the battery is fully charged and see if it works again. Alternatively, take it to a battery place or a mechanic and get the battery tested. The latter should tell you without much of a doubt if you need to replace it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T14:59:57.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2012-03-19T15:58:28.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take it to an auto parts store they can test it for you for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1630" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T15:58:28.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3093" CreationDate="2012-03-19T18:19:02.843" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;During rain, you can feel a small drip on your feet on the passenger side of my 97 Subaru Legacy. How do I find the source of the leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:36:09.897" Title="How do I track down a leak?" Tags="|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2012-03-19T18:30:07.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not have had time to completely charge, you may have something drawing the battery down, or it could just be a bad battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3090/85&quot;&gt;dardub&lt;/a&gt; suggests is to take it to an auto parts store most of them test you battery and charging system for free at least around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are more inclined to check it yourself see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;my answer here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:30:07.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3091" CreationDate="2012-03-19T18:36:09.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a friend to spray water on the windshield and surrounding areas while you are inside the car doors closed with a flashlight looking under the dash. Don't spray the water forcibly at the windshield try to make it like a rain shower. You can make a simple stand out of pump pipe holding a shower head to do the same thing if you don't have an assistant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T18:36:09.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2012-03-19T20:36:38.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would still check all your lighting fuses, sometimes your brake lights/taillights will be on separate fuses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T20:36:38.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3079" CreationDate="2012-03-20T01:20:46.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Problem solved : sticking valve in turbo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After running a solenoid check at the independent mechanics - which toggles the solenoids for as long as you like, I get power and turbo back with a vengeance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the problem is with a sticking solenoid in one of the turbo valves - either the wastegate or the diverter valves.  The mechanic mentioned as we were running the test that this often unsticks solenoids, so I asked him to let it keep clicking for a whole minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these is very expensive.  Now I'm just going to wait until it fails again, and get it replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diverter valve was replaced by audi less than a year ago, so will still be under warranty, and given that I was getting boost (MAF records lots of air going in) I think that's the most likely candidate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1626" LastEditorUserId="1626" LastEditDate="2012-03-20T13:42:36.833" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T13:42:36.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3097" CreationDate="2012-03-20T04:44:05.897" Score="4" ViewCount="33691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before going off to college, I had my car carefully inspected by a trusted mechanic whom I asked to inform me of any major problems. That is to say, the car has none now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just noticed (don't ask how I didn't notice before) that whenever I turn at a low speed, such as maneuvering in parking lots, there is a bit of squealing. Everything works perfectly, and the squealing isn't hideously loud-- it's just loud enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might cause this, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T02:46:00.783" Title="Squeaky steering?" Tags="|power-steering|steering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2012-03-20T09:31:42.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the noise coming from the steering itself, or from the tyres? i.e does it make the noise as you are turning the steering wheel, or does it still do it as you hold the wheel steady during the turn? If it is the latter (the &quot;hollywood tyre squeal&quot; effect), that is quite common, particularly on the smooth concrete you tend to find in multi-story car parks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it only occurs as you are physically turning the wheel, i would suspect an issue with your power steering - have you checked the fluid level recently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T09:31:42.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-20T13:10:32.760" Score="3" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't squeak when braking forwards, or braking hard/fast backing up. Only when backing up and lightly pressing on them. Extended squeal, and very loud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T10:03:20.747" Title="2005 Infiniti G35x - squeaky brakes only when backing up slowly" Tags="|maintenance|brakes|nissan|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2012-03-20T13:13:21.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on Nick's answer, you can confirm whether you're hearing tire noise or power steering pump noise in a couple of easy steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try making a hard turn of the wheel at almost no speed at all.  For example, when backing out of a garage (don't hit the wall).  If the tires are barely turning, any squeal at that point is much more likely to be a pump problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try some turns in the environment where you think you can make the squeal happen.  Now try some nearly identical turns to the left and to the right.  If you notice a difference in the sound, it's more likely a tire noise than a pump noise.  Likewise, if you try the same turns on different pavement and hear something different, you are likely noticing tire noise than pump noise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T13:13:21.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-20T16:12:22.467" Score="1" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I notice that my car begins coughing couple minutes after it starts. It have happened since Jan, 2012. First, I thought it might be due to Winter since it is cold weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it still occurs now so I drive my car to our mechanic guy. We guess it might be a problem from transmission. It shakes like when you're on driving mode and you hit brake to stop your car (like waiting for red light). He checks the transmission but it seem to be ok. But he didn't see the shaking when I was there. Since the shaking is only about 10 min after first start of the day. I drove to his garage is about 20 min away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed my spark plugs and their wires the whole set two years ago. I also change engine oil regularly. And no sign of any leaking on my parking spot. Transmission oil is in good level. My Camry's engine is 3.0L V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one have any idea what causes the problem is. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="986" LastEditorUserId="986" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T14:30:08.653" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T16:52:19.923" Title="Toyota Camry 2000: Odd Coughing when starts" Tags="|engine|brakes|troubleshooting|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3774" CreationDate="2012-03-20T16:56:06.997" Score="6" ViewCount="3085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are (U.S.) automakers required to maintain an infrastructure of spare parts for 15-years (in the U.S. or in California)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_EV1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the GM EV-1&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The EV1's discontinuation ... to avoid potential losses in spare parts sales (sales forced by government regulations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... maintaining a parts supply and service infrastructure for the 15-year minimum required by the state of California ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i cannot find any any such law, either in California, the U.S., Canada, or anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are automakers required to maintain spare parts infrastructure for 15 years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From&lt;/strong&gt;: Quiroga, Tony. &quot;Driving the Future.&quot; &lt;em&gt;Car and Driver&lt;/em&gt; Aug 2009: 52&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the EV1 leases came due, GM collected all the experimental cars and had most of them crushed to avoid liability issues and parts-availability regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T19:31:57.933" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:07:25.243" Title="Are automakers required to maintain spare parts infrastructure for 15 years?" Tags="|parts|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:00:48.693" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's almost certainly no technical reason for that, but there may well be a weasely one. It may have to do with manufacturer recommendations, kickback, or even warranty conditions. And, like another answer said, it may not be about the fluid. You'd need to find out exactly what the person said and why to know what they meant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your (up to date) handbook should tell you what kind of fluids are required and appropriate for your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T18:00:48.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="656" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:15:54.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you remove the motor easily? Then you could take it out see if it turns freely unloaded and unconnected. Cleaning and reassembling might even fix it. Smaller motors rarely have brushes that you can replace and small parts like that rarely have BLDC motors either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, a motor not being able to move a mechanism sounds like something is binding in the mechanism or in the motor. Electrical problem is unlikely but not completely impossible. You could try running it by itself, maybe carefully with a lower voltage first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it works fine while out of the car, the problem is probably the way the lid loads (presses) the lock or something like that. Something may be bent or worn or dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://debuggingrules.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Divide and conquer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T18:15:54.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1154" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:32:43.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kia.ca/pages/owner/ownersmanual.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kia.ca/pages/owner/ownersmanual.aspx&lt;/a&gt; or other links from your friendly manufacturer website or DDG/Google?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 7-40 in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kia.ca/content/Owners/OwnersManual/2002_Sedona_Owners_Manual_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Engine Oil    API Service SD or above, SAE 5W-30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get feedback from brand user and fan forums/sites/lists/clubs etc. But RTFM is the correct first answer to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="1636" LastEditDate="2012-03-20T19:28:02.630" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T19:28:02.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1154" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:46:36.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some oil brand name companies that have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/Vehicle_Chooser/VehicleChooser.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vehicle selector page&lt;/a&gt; and they will tell you what they recommend. But again, the owner's manual is the best place to look for the correct viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T14:41:14.913" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T14:41:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3078" CreationDate="2012-03-20T21:07:45.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a good reference for the problem you seem to be having: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-tech-performance/2074020-ok-im-lost-program-spare-key-fob.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Program Spare Key FOB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The vehicle must be OFF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Open the rear compartment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place a known key fob within the interior of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;At the rear of the vehicle insert the vehicle key in the rear compartment lock cylinder located in the lower left and cycle the key 5 times within 5 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The DIC will display a message: READY FOR FOB X (X = fob 2, 3, or 4).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place the replacement key fob in the glove box fob pocket with the buttons facing right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A beep will occur and the DIC will display: READY FOR FOB X (X = fob 3 or 4) or MAX FOBS LEARNED.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If programming additional key fobs, repeat steps 5 and 6, or press the OFF/ACC portion of the ignition switch to exit programming mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Operate the active portion of each key fob to exit the programming and to verify correct system operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there is one main difference in the instructions; the known key fob needs to be in the interior of the vehicle while you cycle the key.  If having the known fob inside the vehicle does not work, try the steps recommended &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570351932-post19.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T21:07:45.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3109" CreationDate="2012-03-20T23:08:06.087" Score="7" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/83/are-small-engines-on-topic&quot;&gt;Are small engines on topic? (meta)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the arrival of Spring, I went to dust off my riding lawn mower. It had been sitting under a tarp on a corner of my lawn all winter. The first thing I did was open the hood, which revealed an engine swarmed by ants. Closer examination revealed that the ants seem to have build a nest in last year's grass, dirt, and debris that accumulated on top of the blade guard. But a lot of the ants are at the top of the engine, in and around the fan-like thing (intake?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mower is a Murray model# 425007x92C. The engine is a Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton 17 HP, model# 313707, type 0126-1E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came here instead of trying to start it. Should I be concerned? How should I proceed? I'll be sure to clean off the blade guard (and all other areas) before storing it in the future, but what now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knowledge of internal combustion engines is minimal. Please let me know what additional information, if any, would be useful to you. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T21:47:38.943" Title="Ants in my lawn mower engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3108" CreationDate="2012-03-21T01:07:46.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure wash the whole thing, then examine the innards for ant carcasses. I believe if they are not inside the case, you should be able to just change any fluids, and re-service. This will allow you to return the machine to full service condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="440" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T21:47:38.943" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T21:47:38.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3111" CreationDate="2012-03-21T14:03:30.373" Score="7" ViewCount="64450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had my car serviced and they discovered that the front, near side coil spring is &quot;incomplete&quot; and needs replacing. I'm getting conflicting advice about whether I need to replace both front springs at the same time, or whether it's OK to just replace the one that's failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - do I need to replace both, or just the one that's failed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:25:42.837" Title="If one coil spring needs replacing, do I need to replace both?" Tags="|suspension|springs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3110" CreationDate="2012-03-21T14:13:01.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is always recommended to replace suspecsion and braking components on both sides of the same axle at the same time, wherever possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both will currently be the same age - if one has failed, it is likely that the other is in a similar condition and so could easily fail soon. In the case of springs, the constant flexing of the metal can eventually lead to fatigue, which is presumably the cause of the first failure - the other spring will be similarly fatigued. Similar arguments apply to other components such as shocks and bushes, which all wear out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally I suspect (although I'm not a metallurgist, so this is just speculation) that the spring rate will change over time and use, so a new spring would be slightly harder than the old one - if that is the case then it would result in uneven handling, which would be very dangerous. This is certainly the case with shock absorbers, which lose their damping ability as they wear - one side well damped and the other not would be deadly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T14:13:01.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-03-21T14:45:21.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having the same problem with my 2000 Accord coupe v6. Has always been an intermittent problem. Just got it from dealer I experienced shaking on highway one day cruising at 75 mph, freaked me out. Check engine light came on and was P0108. Map sensor was somehow not fully connected. That took care of that. Regarding the no start after &quot;hot soak&quot; they replaced bay one O2 sensor. Still didn't solve issue. Then their tech line referenced SB 00-024 in regards to winter fuel. They added a BG Ethanol treatment and filled it up with premium gas and so far so good. Recommended repair would be to replace the PCM and Fuel Pressure regulator. Told me to check out www.toptiergas.com to locate stations with proper fuel. Told me to go to high volume gas stations and run premium. The car has 209000 miles and never had any issues. Gonna try out the high dollar gas for a while and hope it doesn't come to that. According to some info I found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motobild.com/honda/2000-honda-accord-v6-match-fuel-pressure-regulator-with-pcm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motobild.com/honda/2000-honda-accord-v6-match-fuel-pressure-regulator-with-pcm.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;my vin # indicates that I should have the updated PCM and regulator. I am at a loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1640" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T14:45:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3114" CreationDate="2012-03-21T18:02:02.203" Score="10" ViewCount="196760" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heat works great, but my AC is nonexistent. Just blows out normal air, which in this weather is quite hot and unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the refrigerant refilled two years ago, but I haven't used the car in over a year so I don't know when the AC stopped working. It was working up until the last time I used it, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told it would be about $85 to refill the refrigerant, but that it wouldn't do me much good if I had a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should a refrigerant refill last, and how do I know if I have a leak, and if I do, what must be done to repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T11:35:17.513" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:02:36.543" Title="How do you detect and deal with a refrigerant leak?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2012-03-21T18:14:15.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should last forever, as long as the A/C system stays sealed (which it's supposed to be).  Problem is that A/C parts are quite readily damaged and leaks are very common.  Solution is to find the leaks and fix them.  Usually ends up being the condensor, and it's normally recommended to replace the dryer whenever the system is touched.  Those 2 alone can cost $500-1000 depending on the car.  Used parts are not typically available (and if they are, they're usually not reliable anyways 'cause A/C parts are so easily damaged).  Another common leak point is the compressor itself, which is equally expensive in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T18:14:15.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1598" CreationDate="2012-03-22T10:58:32.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Saturn___Vehicle_Bolt_Pattern_Reference.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; should prove useful if you've not found an answer yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that they're identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1642" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T11:33:28.770" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T11:33:28.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T11:24:40.700" Score="5" ViewCount="6139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda 626 (sedan) -97 and lately its been running uneven and jerky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have had in in for repairs and changed battery, oil+filter and spark plugs. Still had problems and tried to use a engine and fuel injector cleaner (brands STP and Red Line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solved the problems temporarily. Until I had to refueled with gas again. I have done this process twice now with same results, and while the problem is gotten less it is still uneven and jerky with a new tank of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem seems to worse at low speeds. And if you let go of the gas the speed will will go down until the car stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion or ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T07:40:40.557" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T03:36:55.673" Title="Car runs uneven and jerky, but why? (Mazda 626)" Tags="|engine|mazda|cleaning|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2012-03-22T11:43:20.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem with my old Mazda 626. Usually occurred in roundabouts or slow speed driving in parking lots. &#xA;In my case it was the driving knots + something else in the steering that needed to be greased up. I even changed them completely since they where old and worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T11:43:20.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3116" CreationDate="2012-03-22T11:47:09.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the fuel filter and the fuel tank breather? If either of these are clogged, it will reduce the amount of fuel getting to the engine, which can often lead to poor running at low revs. It is unusual to see problem occurring more with a full fuel tank, the opposite is more common, but that would definitely lead me to suspect the breather - this is a valve in the filler cap that allows air to flow in to the tank to replace the fuel as the level drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a test, park the car outside in an area well away from any potential sparks. Switch on the engine, allowing it to idle - this presumably will cause it to stall? If so, open the fuel filler cap, and switch on the engine again. If the problem does not occur, that's your culprit! Obviously you must be VERY careful running the car with the cap removed, as petrol vapour is highly flammable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T11:47:09.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3120" CreationDate="2012-03-22T16:16:29.827" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't do anything to &quot;winterize&quot; it, but we only had a few stretches of really cold weather (less than 20F) and the majority of the winter was between 20F and 50F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do anything before firing it up and mowing the lawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T01:12:12.190" Title="Should I do anything or check anything before starting my push mower after sitting all winter?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2012-03-22T16:34:38.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two-Stroke or Four? If four, check the oil. Check the general condition, e.g. check that the fuel lines are secure and in good condition. If it is water-cooled (I don't think they usually are?), check the coolant level and condition of radiator/hoses. Take the plug out, clean and re-gap. Empty out any old fuel and put new in (If the fuel is only 6 months old you can probably mix some of the old in with the new, it won't have gone off completely yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the engine over by hand a few times before trying to start it (from my experience of pull-start engines you normally have to try several times before they'll start anyway!). Mower engines are pretty rugged things in my experience, so I doubt you'll have any problems - the above are pretty much generic points for any engine that has been sat for a while...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T16:34:38.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:10:52.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing bad about all the things Nick C suggested, but for a simple push mower I think it's overkill, I'd just check the oil, top off the gas, and pull the cord!  :-)  If it sounds like it has a misfire, then next time around I'd check the plug(s).  The plugs can go a very long time without maintenance unless they get damaged/rusty (and I'd be inclined to replace rather than attempt to rehabilitate them anyways).  If properly installed with anti-seize and dielectric, you shouldn't have problems with plugs getting stuck even after years of service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T17:10:52.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3124" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:37:33.590" Score="0" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;A transmission mechanic gave me the following error codes for my Kia Sedona 2005 model. Not sure what they mean and which ones I need to have fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P2422&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0116 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0304 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P02015&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T17:46:09.603" Title="What do these Diagnosis Error Codes mean?" Tags="|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:38:26.120" Score="5" ViewCount="2125" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a routine tire pressure check, I noticed this gouge in the side of my tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it is a safety issue, but I hesitate to take it to a tire shop because I want an unbiased opinion.  It seems to hold the air just fine and it isn't more than a couple mm deep, but I don't want to have a blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBGyz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire crack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T12:55:10.203" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T12:55:10.203" Title="Is this gouge in the side of the tire a safety issue?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3122" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:46:09.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;troublecodes.net&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0116: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two are not listed here.  Check your coolant, clear out the codes and see if any show up again.  If they do, then it's time to get the car into a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T17:46:09.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2522" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:50:35.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your alignment. If the car has ever been hit hard, the car might be driving down the road &quot;sideways&quot;, that is that the back tires are not pointed straight. That will lead to uneven tire wear, uneven rear brake wear, handling issues, among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T17:50:35.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3128" CreationDate="2012-03-22T18:09:35.087" Score="1" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently read from a reputable source that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/news/new-tire-tests-show-the-quarter-is-the-new-penny-car-news&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tyres should be replaced at 3.2mm of tread thickness, not 1.6mm&lt;/a&gt; as the previous dogma suggested. My tyres are all in the 2.0mm - 2.5mm range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that deeper tread is beneficial in the wet, but the fine article states shorter stopping distances for deeper tread in the dry as well. That seems counter intuitive to me, I thought that if there were no rain then tyres wouldn't have grooves on them at all! How could a deeper tread shorten stopping distances in the dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T20:26:37.870" Title="Should I replace the tires earlier?" Tags="|tires|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="873" CreationDate="2012-03-22T18:16:21.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went looking for information on the subject and had to address the national vehicle safety office, luckily I worked there when I was in university! The truth is that nobody has ever performed a safety test on the third-row seats, in any vehicle. Those third-row seats are outside the vehicle passenger compartment which is designed to withstand impact, and inside the crumple zone, which is designed to crush in order to reduce the G-forces on the passenger compartment. The passenger compartment is everything between the two axles, and the crumple zones is everything outside the wheelbase. Based on that information I refuse to let my children ride in the third-row seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to a junkyard and look at a few wrecks. Look at the damage in the third-row seating area, and compare it to damage to the passenger compartment. You can make your decision there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:16:21.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2012-03-22T18:46:53.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that the tread depth actually is the deciding factor.  By the time you wear the tires down that far they've had a LOT of heat cycles put on them.  As a tire gets heat cycled repeatedly, it gets harder and looses grip.  That's what I understand to be the real issue in those tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the depth to replace at, that's been debated quite a bit.  Tire shops in many areas are saying 4/32&quot; for tires that never see snow and 6/32&quot; for tires that do get used in the snow.  Some states in the USA have bumped standards up to 3/32&quot; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, most states are still at the 2/32&quot; wearbars as the standard.  Environmental and conservation concerns are pushing others to go with the 2/32&quot; and &quot;don't be stupid&quot; when driving in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main risk of insufficient tread depth in rain is hydroplaning at speed.  If you're not going fast enough to hydroplane, there's no real benefit to throwing out tires early.  If you only drive slowly in occasional light snow, same idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best option would be to replace tires daily, but that's just silly.  :-)  So, you have to pick the appropriate cost/risk value that fits within legal limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:46:53.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3123" CreationDate="2012-03-22T18:54:48.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That crack was caused by heat and drying out in the sun. It will run, and your should replace the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T18:54:48.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:43:55.260" Score="1" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, and I managed to break my side mirror off from its enclosure. In the images, you can see there are 3 sockets on the mirror - 1 large and 2 small. I broke the large one one and you can see the break on the mirror seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it in to the auto shop and each one said they would only consider replacing the entire enclosure and quoted a price about 1/10 the worth of the vehicle. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea was to use a dremel to grind the whole thing flat and just glue it on. But I'm not sure whether that would make it unadjustable. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8877/img20120322141848.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8877/img20120322141848.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9369/img20120322141859.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9369/img20120322141859.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1645" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T02:21:01.193" Title="Fixing side mirror on my Buick" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3133" CreationDate="2012-03-22T20:29:37.160" Score="3" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a simple, yet frustrating, problem.  I cannot check my oil, because the dipstick is stuck fast to the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really want to pull and twist so hard that it breaks off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T00:21:05.540" Title="Cannot Pull Oil Dipstick" Tags="|ford|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2012-03-22T22:30:24.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before signing your name on the contract and completely sealing the deal for a used car, you should also check the dashboard features like the A/C, sound system, light and wiper controls, and horn. You can also check the speedometer for the mileage of the vehicle. After doing that, open the hood and check if the area is dusty or not. You may also want to check the oil in the car. To do that, you may use a dipping stick, which is found under the hood, to check if it's clean or dirty. If the oil is clean, the car is good to go. But if the oil is dirty, oil change is needed to avoid damaging the car’s engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1646" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T15:36:23.020" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T15:36:23.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3131" CreationDate="2012-03-23T00:21:05.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try pulling it when the engine is hot. A that point the metals might have expanded a little and you might actually get it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T00:21:05.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3130" CreationDate="2012-03-23T00:41:38.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you glue it you most certainly will make it unadjustable.Other options to consider are asking the bodyshop the cost of a nonpower mirror installed but not painted to match.You might also inquire about a junkyard/recycled mirror.I have found that often local auto parts stores can sell or order aftermarket parts as cheap as used parts.You could also try installing it yourself.Generally it only requires removing the inside door panel and the mirror mounting screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T00:41:38.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3119" CreationDate="2012-03-23T01:12:12.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use it like most people 1 hour a week for 4 or 5 months that equals about 20 hours of use.Tecumseh suggests oil changes every 25 hours.To keep things simple I change the oil every spring.I also check the air filter,most times I just tap it on the ground to knock the dirt off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T01:12:12.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2012-03-23T07:51:21.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you live and the climate and season. In Sweden for example you must, according to the law, have at least have 1,6 mm in the summer and 3,0 mm in the winter, or winter conditions. And that sounds reasonable to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T20:26:37.870" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T20:26:37.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2614" CreationDate="2012-03-23T17:52:59.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;its the plastic peice the cable connects to. the small peice that screws to the laver breaks the clips and falls out of socket with the temp. flap arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T17:52:59.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2284" CreationDate="2012-03-24T03:22:49.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN bus is one of five protocols used in the OBD-II vehicle&#xA;diagnostics standard. The OBD-II standard has been mandatory for all&#xA;cars and light trucks sold in the United States since 1996, and the&#xA;EOBD standard has been mandatory for all petrol vehicles sold in the&#xA;European Union since 2001 and all diesel vehicles since 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I venture to say no, as all mentions of CAN bus I found were post 2001 for Cordovas made by SEAT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T03:22:49.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5377" CreationDate="2012-03-24T06:56:45.717" Score="1" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make some gears/pinions myself. I have access to a high quality 4-axis CNC mill, but not to a lathe. I'd like to cut these gears out of flat stock (facing), rather than round (edgewise) using narrow end mills. Being able to prototype this in plastic sheets is important to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a bunch of sites that explain hobbing and that have formulas for pitch etc, but no sites that actually generate the splines for the gear teeth to turn into Gcode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I sit down with Mathematica and derive it from first principles, does anyone know of a good resource for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1649" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T19:28:40.200" Title="How to generate involute gear milling Gcode" Tags="|transmission|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-24T20:51:21.300" Score="2" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a front cap but it does not say engine oil. When I open it, i can see engine parts in it. I just want to pour in more oil? Is it somewhere hidden, or this is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there are 2 types of oil, engine oil and transmission oil. What I am looking at looks like transmission oil cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T12:27:29.123" Title="Where is engine oil cap on Mazda 626?" Tags="|oil-change|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3144" CreationDate="2012-03-25T01:09:36.493" Score="5" ViewCount="9545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2001 Lexus ES 320 with 195K miles on it. It drives well, but I feel its pickup is not as good as I would expect from a 3.0L V6 engine. By pickup I mean the time it takes for the car to get from 0 to 25 miles per hour or so. So my question is - does a car lose its pickup with age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T03:45:49.693" Title="Does a car lose its pickup with age?" Tags="|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2012-03-25T11:55:46.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should not.  There can be minor engine wear resulting in a very slight loss of compression, but that's usually offset by some parts being &quot;looser&quot; and having slightly less friction.  Modern cars are designed to go 100k miles without even having detectable wear at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything other than that is abnormal and is a symptom of some problem.  Weak ignition coil perhaps, maybe a flaky O2 sensor (while the computer is supposed to detect those, the computers really aren't good at it, you can have one that's basically dead and STILL not get a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) for it).  Could even be a slipping transmission.  Whatever it is, it can be fixed (although the price could be anywhere from a few dollars up to thousands, depending on what the root cause is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T11:55:46.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3140" CreationDate="2012-03-25T12:27:29.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found an online document and it solved the problem. The cap on top of the engine is the motor oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/quicktips/01Mazda626QT.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/quicktips/01Mazda626QT.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="865" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T12:27:29.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2012-03-25T14:23:10.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little hard to answer without more information about the history of the car.  My first instinct tells me, though, that you're just looking at a situation where a vehicle deserves some freshening maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some fundamentals worth checking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How is the air path through the engine?  Remember, the engine is basically a big air pump: there are basic maintenance items that can be checked all the way from the intake through to the exhaust.  Some obvious examples: air filter and muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the car in proper tune?  When were the spark plugs last changed?  Transmission oil?  Belts and hoses?  Fuel filter?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How about the non-intuitive things like the suspension components: when were the shocks replaced?  I find that a sloppy suspension makes me feel like the car is slow (partly because I become progressively more afraid to drive it with any vim).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring any further information, I suspect that you're just looking at a clogged air filter.  If I'm right, you're in luck: it's a super easy fix to replace a panel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T14:23:10.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3146" CreationDate="2012-03-25T17:30:21.470" Score="7" ViewCount="13193" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm looking to remove an odor from my Corolla's fresh air intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are products available where you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KUhBUxa904#t=193s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spray the product into the fresh air intake (near the windshield wipers), while the fan is running full speed&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HXhp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/help/faqs/service-what_causes_air_conditioner_odor_how_can_i_prevent_the_odor_from_occurring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a blurb about how to perform&lt;/a&gt; something similar yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/help/faqs/service-what_causes_air_conditioner_odor_how_can_i_prevent_the_odor_from_occurring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What causes air conditioner odor? How can I prevent the odor from occurring?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&#xA;  spraying a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1 to 5 ratio/mixture) or a disinfectant in the outside air intake may help reduce the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110415211612/http://www.toyota.com/help/faqs/service-what_causes_air_conditioner_odor_how_can_i_prevent_the_odor_from_occurring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archived copy&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What causes air conditioner odor? How can I prevent the odor from occurring?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During air conditioner operation, cold refrigerant is&#xA;  pumped through the evaporator core by an engine-driven compressor. A&#xA;  fan then blows air through &quot;fins&quot; in the evaporator to cool the air.&#xA;  These fins also act as an air filter, trapping bacteria, spores, and&#xA;  dirt. These airborne particles are normally washed out a drain hole&#xA;  with condensation, but if they remain on a moist evaporator, they may&#xA;  collect and cause an unpleasant odor. This effect is more frequently&#xA;  found in humid climates where more condensate accumulates. This&#xA;  situation is not unique to Toyota; it is an industry-wide condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To prevent the odor, Toyota recommends the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Avoid parking under trees to reduce the possibility of leaves entering&#xA;  the air intake &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use the fresh air setting on your climate control rather than the&#xA;  recirculated air setting whenever possible to allow the evaporator to&#xA;  dry out &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drive on paved roads whenever feasible as dusty conditions may&#xA;  accelerate the condition &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the condition already exists, spraying a mixture of isopropyl&#xA;  alcohol and water (1 to 5 ratio/mixture) or a disinfectant in the&#xA;  outside air intake may help reduce the smell. If these steps do not&#xA;  alleviate the odor, we encourage you to contact your local dealer for&#xA;  a thorough evaluation of the condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the idea of spraying an aerosol into my car's electric fan makes me kind of nervous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the product in the spray can is (almost certainly) flammable and explosive - yet Toyota itself uses the same thing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i've also seen videos of people spraying Lysol into their fresh air intake to remove odors. A can of Lysol can double as a flame-thrower for those with too much time on their hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i also bought a can of AC deodorizer that contains iso-butanol; and has flammable warnings on the can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and finally we have Toyota recommending spraying isopropyl alcohol (i.e. rubbing alcohol) into your intake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'm willing to try the isopropyl alcohol, but i'm confused about the ratio. They recommend 5:1 ratio. Is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 parts alcohol, 1 part: 83% alcohol, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 parts water, 1 part alcohol: 16% alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, their wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1 to 5 ratio/mixture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i came across a forum post where a person said something to the effect of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i already know about using isopropyl alcohol (5 parts alcohol with 1 part water)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the opposite of how i read Toyota's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i did some tests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;91% isopropyl alcohol: flammable (9:1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70% isopropyl alcohol: flammable (7:1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% isopropyl alcohol: &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; flammable (1:1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13% isopropyl alcohol: &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; flammable (1:5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13% isopropyl alcohol is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; watery - with a lot of water left over (it doesn't evaporate very well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much isopropyl alchcol to deodorize AC ducts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am i being &lt;strong&gt;too&lt;/strong&gt; cautious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T22:02:43.627" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T11:48:58.513" Title="How much isopropyl alchcol to deodorize AC ducts?" Tags="|ac|smell|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2012-03-25T18:30:02.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1 to 5 ratio/mixture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;means 1 measure of alcohol to 5 of water. You wouldn't want to go the other way, in my opinion as you'll end up with a lot of alcohol, which will not only be a fire risk, but also could do bad things to duct work etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T18:30:02.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2012-03-26T03:45:49.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The NYtimes recently published &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/18/automobiles/as-cars-are-kept-longer-200000-is-new-100000.html?hpw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article basically stating that the longevity of modern cars (2001 seems to fit into that) far exceeds that of the previous generation. It quotes a Ford person saying that a test F150 was stripped down after 250K miles and showed no engine wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would tend to indicate to mean that your car should not lose its pickup unless there is a mechanical problem; age is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for that problem may be, I cannot help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T03:45:49.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2614" CreationDate="2012-03-26T12:26:41.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had similar issue in Skoda Felicia (which is much like an older Golf) I own. Check these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the salon heater. Start the car, wait till coolant gets to its normal temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now open salon heater to the max and check if it readily blows hot air. The air will be hot at first, but quickly loose temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the salon heater, wait ~5-7min and repeat step 2, it should act the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a case that is a broken wall inside salon heater core, so instead of going through the core the coolant was just short-circuited to out. Had to replace the heater core and all went back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T12:26:41.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3150" CreationDate="2012-03-26T15:57:08.637" Score="4" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dent in the drivers side door, and I've been wondering if I should use one of these dent repair at home companies. Obviously they are going to tell me it'll look brand new when they finish, but I am worried they will make it look worse, and with no Save and Load option in real life its a bit of a risk..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dent is about the size of a palm all in, and maybe 1cm deep, but is actually fairly subtle, and annoyingly it shows after washing more then when dirty. It doesn't look scarred or scratched to any great degree, and I have really thought about taking the sink plunger to it, but got scared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone any experience of using these services? To put it into context the Dealer wanted 2.5k to repair this, that involved a new door and respray of the whole side to blend! p***ks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1651" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T20:12:03.833" Title="Is at home dent repair worth it?" Tags="|dent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3149" CreationDate="2012-03-26T17:38:59.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of these do a good job. I can't comment on the particular one you are looking at, but the ones I have used can first get the dent back to smooth, and then using something similar to t-cut they sort out the small scratches/paint blemishes that have occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not be as good as the dealer's solution (as for that money you want exact colour matching etc) but my experience is that I couldn't see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, your mileage may vary - but your fallback plan is still the dealer if it turns out they are cowboys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T17:38:59.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3149" CreationDate="2012-03-26T20:12:03.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask if they have any before and after photos from previous jobs.Then put things in perspective.Is this dent the only blemish on a otherwise perfect car?Is what they are charging something you are willing to spend and just have it look better but not perfect?It won't be worse than it is now and it may not look worse than the other doors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T20:12:03.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3154" CreationDate="2012-03-27T18:58:09.357" Score="5" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;3-Part Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is squealing lately when I turn it on/am idling at stoplights/am making slow turns i.e. parking lots. I go to an engineering school, and some friends of mine who build racecars looked at it and said it sounds like the power steering pump is having difficulties. In a former question on this forum, the diagnosis was ubiquitously in agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Can a psp be repaired, or does it have to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. The dealer told me a new one would be ~$600 (97 Subaru Legacy, fyi), but when I looked at some parts online they ranged from $60-$140, mostly refurbished. Is the dealer overcharging me, or are used parts really that much cheaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C. What is the likelihood that parts bought online are going to be reliable, assuming they come from an established parts dealer, e.g. partstrain.com?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1207" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T16:02:21.240" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T22:19:43.620" Title="Enormous discrepancy in part cost estimation; reliability of refurbished parts online?" Tags="|parts|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3130" CreationDate="2012-03-27T19:25:47.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you decide to save some money and replace the mirror yourself, there is a good how-to video here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZSXVx9uyGQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZSXVx9uyGQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T19:25:47.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3152" CreationDate="2012-03-27T20:36:26.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A - You can replace the seals in the pump if your pump is leaking. I've never done this on a Subaru, but this link should help:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123004&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B - I checked at my local Subaru dealer and their price for &lt;em&gt;parts only&lt;/em&gt; would be $370 plus tax. Maybe your dealer was including installation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C - As far as the reliability of parts is concerned, you can always search for reviews and check for a good warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T21:00:03.287" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T21:00:03.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3160" CreationDate="2012-03-28T02:44:27.253" Score="3" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been in the garage all winter. It starts, but I'm nervous about getting it to a mechanic (about 10 miles away). It's a 2007 Honda Rebel 250cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have zero maintenance experience. None. A couple years ago the engine on my cycle seized because I didn't notice an oil leak. But I'm in a new place and I don't know any mechanics yet; I really don't want to F up another engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil is low, and needs to be changed. I fixed the tire pressure. That's all I know to check! I'm sure there are other things I should look at before taking it out; what is important? I'd rather not have it die en route to a mechanic... &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; would rather not die en route too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1654" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T20:26:32.630" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T03:37:13.603" Title="What minimum maintenance should I do to get my cycle to a shop where it can be looked over professionally?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2012-03-28T05:21:12.327" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised this has not been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a compression test performed on the engine.  This will expose many major engine problems like head gasket leaks, damaged valves/valve lands or rings.  It is a simple, inexpensive test that can save you from some of the most expensive repairs a vehicle may need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider a compression test &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; mandatory on any engine with forced induction (turbocharged or supercharged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T05:21:12.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T07:25:48.233" Score="6" ViewCount="7464" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been a year and a half and it is now happening again! (same exact presentation.) It started happening again when it started getting cold out and is still going on now.  Took it to the mechanic that swapped out the radiator and he's stumped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No leaks, but couldn't the head gasket be leaking on the inside?  How would I know if the head gasket needs replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Been noticing lately that my heater stopped working and temp climbs to red. Came to find out that I had no coolant in engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filled it up. Problem is that it still happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, radiator full, Heater works fine, but if I drive it for a while, temp climbs and heater stops working. Took it in. Mechanic said coolant pump was leaking. replaced it, and temp sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;still happens! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I can reproduce problem: Drive with high RPMs for about 15-20 minutes.&#xA;I put it in Low 3, and got on the highway for about 10 minutes. &#xA;This kept the RPM gauge up to about 4 or 5. temp gauge climbs rapidly once it decides to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove home after that point never letting the rpm gauge go higher than 1 and a half. (if I did, temp would rise rapidly). coasting in neutral makes it go down. The heater being on has no effect, however, once the temp gauge climbs rapidly, all heat from heater vanishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater starts working again if the temp goes down (meaning I lowered rpms long enough to let things cool down) when I got home I arranged it that I got back in the driveway with the temp gauge almost in the red. I then put the car in neutral and raced the engine, keeping the RPMs up to 5 for 2 minutes. It had no effect (temp did not climb) I let the engine cool down a little and tried again in Neutral. no go. unable to make temp climb while parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:49:22.303" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T22:15:52.057" Title="problem with overheating and heater core in 1998 Subaru Forester" Tags="|subaru|forester|overheating|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2012-03-28T11:58:11.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;i ended up using, after extensive testing, a 50-50 mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn fan on full-blast, and use spray-bottle to spray mist into the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odor eliminated; i was surprised it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T11:58:11.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3161" CreationDate="2012-03-28T19:43:26.400" Score="0" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to sell this key but I'm not sure what other models or years it may fit. Is there anyone who knows or knows where I could find out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T20:25:55.613" Title="I have a key for 2005 Nissan Xterra, what other models and/or years could this fit?" Tags="|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2012-03-28T20:11:57.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have concerns that the motorcycle is not safe to ride then don't ride it.It is impossible to say it is safe to ride without knowing a lot of details.My suggestion would be to contact the shop that will be doing the work.Many dealers have a pickup service.In some cases it is free if they do a certain amount of repairs.In other words if you spend enough the will take remove the pickup charge.While at the repair shop ask them to give you some pointers on a preride check list you can perform yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T20:11:57.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3159" CreationDate="2012-03-28T20:25:55.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key is useless.The number of possible lock combinations is in the thousands.The odds of finding a vehicle that it will fit is slightly less that picking the winning Lotto number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T20:25:55.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3163" CreationDate="2012-03-28T20:44:14.297" Score="4" ViewCount="5410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, i had the &quot;slow down&quot; warning on my display when i was doing above 180kmph on the motorway and i was no longer able accelerate. it was as if i was driving an electric car. Though after some time (maybe about 2-3 mins) it was back to normal. What could be the problem. My car mileage is 138000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1659" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T13:46:31.483" Title="Lancer ex 2008 CVT - Slow Down warning on display!" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3162" CreationDate="2012-03-28T22:16:26.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause is transmision fluid /oil temp was too high.The ECM slowed the engine until the temp was within limits.If you routinely run the car this hard you may need an extra transmission cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T22:16:26.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2012-03-29T14:28:36.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd top off the oil and check all the standard stuff (tire pressure, lights, brakes) and then drive it over.  Maybe take a look at the battery and top off any cells that look low (unless it's a maintenance-free type, of course).  Did you fill the fuel tank and put some fuel stabilizer in it before you parked it for the winter?  If not, then you could have some rust inside the tank that will flake off and possibly clog your fuel filter, be sure to have the shop check that.  If you didn't use a fuel stabilizer I'd recommend draining the tank and putting in some fresh fuel (you can put the drained fuel in your car, a gallon or so of old fuel mixed with several gallons of fresh stuff won't hurt anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T14:28:36.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2012-03-29T14:45:12.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like either air in the cooling system or a bad thermostat (although it'd be a weird failure mode for the thermostat).  Strange that you can't reproduce it when the car's parked, though.  How are your motor mounts?  I'm just wondering if there could be a problem with one of them that allows the motor to move more than it should under load.  This could stretch or kink some of the coolant lines (possibly), which might explain why your interior heat goes away too.  Maybe take a look at any coolant lines you can identify and see if they show signs of creasing or twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T14:45:12.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3162" CreationDate="2012-03-29T15:45:56.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a limiter most vehicles have limiters in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T15:45:56.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2012-03-29T15:57:59.107" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take it to a reputable mechanic or dealership. Your breaks are the most important part of your car and if you suspect something is abnormal take it in to get an inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T15:57:59.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T16:14:46.267" Score="2" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Focus 2005 ZX4 ST, that has Sony Audiophile speakers, which come packaged by default with that particular model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have not modified them since buying the car used, and everything looks standard AFAICT. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two front speakers embedded in the driver and passenger doors randomly will crackle (imagine radio static with the sound going in and out, or like when you don't have an audio cord fully plugged in for computer speakers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I place my hand over the speaker cover, it feels &quot;static-y&quot; (hairs on my hair will stand up, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some likely causes of the crackling, and how can I go about&#xA;  troubleshooting this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="1662" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T01:40:07.290" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:44:58.527" Title="Crackling static in speakers, Sony Audiophile, Ford Focus 2005" Tags="|ford|focus|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3123" CreationDate="2012-03-29T16:15:55.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its always good to replace a tire that has any damage done to the side wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T16:15:55.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3171" CreationDate="2012-03-29T17:35:48.673" Score="6" ViewCount="3778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seeing water droplets on inside of the glass that covers the headlights. They don't seem to go away. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I found the answer here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5035812_remove-condensation-headlights.html&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_5035812_remove-condensation-headlights.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastEditorUserId="1650" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T17:50:58.717" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:37:07.540" Title="Water droplets on inside of glass that covers headlight" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2012-03-29T22:38:04.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the link shows how to remove the condensation it doesn't deal with the cause.The seal has failed and that what is allowing moisture to accumulate.After drying reseal with 3M window seal.It comes on roll and sticks to about anything.Wrap a bead around the light assembly where the lens is glued the housing.Also check the seal where the bulb socket mounts.I would not use the window seal on the socket as you will not be able to remove it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T22:38:04.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3173" CreationDate="2012-03-31T05:33:38.800" Score="1" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 92 Civic (first year with a hydraulic clutch instead of a simple cable) with a slight clutch fluid leak somewhere, and I'm curious if, when it gets bad enough to need fixing, it might be feasible to just replace it with a straight cable. My old (88) Civic had a cable instead of hydraulics for the clutch and the feel/response of the clutch pedal was a lot better. Aside from that, it just seems a lot simpler/cheaper to maintain and a lot better environmentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, is this replacement feasible? What would it involve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T11:29:11.683" Title="Can hydraulic clutch line be easily replaced with a cable?" Tags="|honda|civic|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3172" CreationDate="2012-03-31T07:20:28.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is feasible but it would be more expensive than repairing your current setup. It would involve swapping the pedal assembly, the clutch fork, finding all the brackets for routing the cable and possibly the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside of cables is they are cheap to replace. The downside is they need to be adjusted as they stretch and they tend to fail with no warning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside of hydraulic clutches are they self adjust, they tend to last a long time, they take up less space in the engine compartment, and when they do fail they tend to fail slowly, usually due to a leak. Generally the leak is at the slave cylinder, which is replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T11:29:11.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T11:29:11.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3254" CreationDate="2012-03-31T15:28:28.250" Score="9" ViewCount="54575" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is closely related to one about a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2622/1657&quot;&gt;Jag dying at low RPM&lt;/a&gt;, but is slightly different because it only occurs after refueling and because the problem persists after cleaning the throttle body, as suggested by the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2006 Chrysler 300C, which occasionally dies at low RPM (e.g. at a stop sign). I can feel the RPM drop suddenly and see it on the tach; if they dip too low the engine dies. If I notice it fast enough I can rev the engine to keep it going. Sometimes the engine RPM will stutter while driving as well, but the engine will typically recover if the RPMs are high enough when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem only occurs shortly after filling up with gas and seems to be more likely the lower the tank was at fill-up, but I don't have much data on that. The problem occurs regardless of octane (87 and 89 are both approved for the Hemi engine) and subsides after several miles of driving, especially if it is not stop-and-go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several things have been done (some were just routine maintenance), but none have fixed the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small leak in transmission fixed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;throttle body cleaned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;induction system serviced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs replaced &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flushed fuel system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked out timing sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T21:34:20.437" Title="Car dying at low RPM only after filling up with gas" Tags="|engine|chrysler|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-01T01:50:59.860" Score="0" ViewCount="46135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1969 Ford  Thunderbird 429 Thunderjet and replaced the distributor with a stock distributor with a Pertronix electronic ignition. In the process of troubleshooting why it wouldn't start, we turned the distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was at work, my brother and a neighbor suspected the timing was 180 degrees out. Considering how timing is set by making sure the #1 piston is all the way up, I was wondering if there is more to it than simply making sure the #1 piston is all the way at the top. Is there something else to consider in terms of the position of the pistons when installing a distributor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen on forums where some posters suggest to question-askers that they have their timing &quot;180 out&quot;, but it seems to me that is very unlikely to happen if you're at top dead center? Is it possible for the piston to be all the way up but you're still not at top dead center? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T04:12:47.393" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T17:19:20.190" Title="How Does a Person End Up With Their Timing &quot;180 Out&quot;?" Tags="|ford|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="600" CreationDate="2012-04-01T02:12:22.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few tests you need to do to help with the problem. First, is the presure cap on the overflow bottle {degass bottle} or on the radiator, this will tell you what system you are working with and I will need to know that first before we can go any further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1667" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T21:44:15.560" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T21:44:15.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2012-04-01T02:41:46.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the vehicle is a 96, the mechanic might have meant that you need 2 or 2 more &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBDII&lt;/a&gt; monitor readiness checks.  Some emissions systems are checked continuously by the powertrain controller, while others are only checked periodically when certain driving conditions are met (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/ftp/pdfdocs/obd_ii_faqs.pdf&amp;amp;ei=R7x3T-__EqSHsAK8u4iiBA&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=unauthorizedredirect&amp;amp;ct=targetlink&amp;amp;ust=1333248847313067&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEg_S77OQwxhq1hlRWAJjOf-MQ5sA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has your battery been disconnected?  That could have reset the monitoring status.  It can be done from a scan tool, also.  If the previous owner reset the system with a scan tool before you bought the car, that's obviously not a good sign and the vehicle might need some emissions work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you're good to go for emissions testing after a couple days of driving after a reset/power loss.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Timo Geusch is suggesting, I don't think there is a way around passing an emission test if you want to keep the car on the road.  However, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/80_BARResources/01_CAP&amp;amp;GoldShield/cap_program.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;program&lt;/a&gt; that offers up to $500 of financial assistance toward emissions repairs (if you qualify).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.city-data.com/forum/los-angeles/787574-bought-used-car-wont-pass-smog.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Supposedly&lt;/a&gt;, though, you should have gotten a current smog certificate at the time of sale.  It sounds like you can go after the seller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T15:23:58.337" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T15:23:58.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2357" CreationDate="2012-04-01T02:57:48.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see if there is a recall.  Ford Contours came from the factory with a resistor blowing feature.  The fix was new wiring, a new resistor, and a new climate control switch.  I fixed one that had a resistor that looked like it had been in a toaster.  Wires were melted, too.  And of course, the recall had just expired.  Ugh.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your resistors just stop working, or are there signs of overheating or maybe corrosion?  Are you sure you're getting the correct replacement part?  Maybe try a different brand of replacement or check with a dealer to see if there is a part number change that hasn't worked it's way through the parts store systems yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prediction:  Running the blower on high all the time will eventually kill the blower motor.  Guess what went out on the Contour shortly after I applied the fix kit?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/archive/index.php/t-2346.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hints&lt;/a&gt; at what might be causing your problems.  It sounds like newer resistors are working their way into the supply chain, hopefully they're improved.  Also, supposedly there is a filter next to the blower that can get clogged and cause the resistor to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, water can't be good for a resistor, either.  Some other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2202834-floor_board_passenger_side_door_gets_wet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hints&lt;/a&gt; indicate that your might have a plugged drain in your wiper well (you don't have a sunroof, do you?).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that is it, I suppose you could have a blower motor that is going bad and drawing more current than it should.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T04:57:26.260" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T04:57:26.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3176" CreationDate="2012-04-01T10:41:07.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees opposite of TDC of the exhaust stroke.Both TDC will read 0 on the crank timing ring. The 180 degrees refers to the camshaft position relative to the crankshaft.the camshaft is turning at 1/2 the crank speed.Think of it as TDC for the crank is always with the piston at the top of the cylinder but the camshaft can be 1/2 a rotation out of position(180degrees) By rotating the crank 1 full revolution you will rotate the cam 1/2 a revolution .Hope this clears it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T21:28:25.277" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T21:28:25.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-01T19:55:35.397" Score="16" ViewCount="1957" Body="&lt;p&gt;People I've seen who have garages have it made. They have a clean, dry workspace with all of their tools within arms reach. In the most organized garages, a mixture of rolling &lt;a href=&quot;http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&amp;amp;tool=all&amp;amp;item_ID=648701&amp;amp;group_ID=682960&quot;&gt;Snap-on Roll Cab with Drawers&lt;/a&gt; and pegboards helps create an organizational paradigm that lets the do-it-yourselfer focus on the task at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person described working on a project as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Clean-a-Carburetor/&quot;&gt;&quot;zen&quot; and an &quot;artful experience&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. A clean workspace, plenty of time, no rush. These are critical for any problem-solving roles, whether it be fixing a car or finding bugs in software. Being an engineer, I know how important it is to be organized so one can stay focused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unfortunately not at a point in my life where I have a garage. I have some tools, but they are extremely disorganized as I'm not a professional with a professional's workspace. Thus, instead of being able to seamlessly go from &quot;car won't start&quot; to &quot;check the plugs&quot; and &quot;regap the plugs&quot;, I end up doubling or tripling the time it would take to perform these very simple tasks, just because I spend that time trying to locate the tool in question. Not only does this take time, but it also disrupts the workflow. It's the exact opposite of zen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that the solution is to &lt;strong&gt;get organized&lt;/strong&gt;, but I also know it has to be sustainable. Organization depends on accessibility and needs to be part of the workflow if it's going to be maintained; otherwise, disorganization once again takes over. With a garage, it's much easier to get and stay organized, without a garage, it seems almost unachievable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm a little over my head trying to both learn how my car works and concentrate on solving the real problems while at the same time dealing with the distracting problem of having an inadequate, disorganized workspace. What techniques can someone use to get tools organized without a garage? How can this be done cheaply? I was thinking of getting several small, portable toolboxes and labeling them, but I'm not sure if that will be easy to maintain. Working outdoors, how can one keep tools clean of dirt and other debris that may not be exactly friendly to your car's engine bay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T07:00:07.307" Title="How To Get Organized Without a Garage Workspace?" Tags="|troubleshooting|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2012-04-01T21:50:02.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-8756.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sounds like&lt;/a&gt; there might more than one blend door.  I guess you're looking for the heater blend door?  Have you gone through chevymalibuforum.com?  From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, you might be able to get at it through the glovebox?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all else fails, consult the factory service manual. Unfortunately, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&amp;amp;Mfg=GMC&amp;amp;Make=CHV&amp;amp;Model=MALI&amp;amp;Year=2003&amp;amp;Category=1&amp;amp;Keyword=&amp;amp;Module=&amp;amp;selected_media=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;your case&lt;/a&gt;, it's $200 new.  They sometimes turn up on ebay, but it looks like there is a lot of crap to wade through at the moment in the search results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go messing around behind the dash, even if you're going in through the glovebox, safe the airbags.  You can disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes (make sure this won't lock you out of your radio), pull the SIR fuse(s), or open the deployment loop connectors (something else to go hunting for).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T21:50:02.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3185" CreationDate="2012-04-01T22:03:03.827" Score="1" ViewCount="1876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to change the spark plugs on a 1998 Ford Contour LX with a 2.0L Zetec (4-Cylinder) recently.  It's got just over 100,000 miles on it.  According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcraftservice.com/?link=002&amp;amp;urlfile=/pubs/content/~WOWCNT/~MUS~LEN/41/98cntmg2e.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;service schedule&lt;/a&gt;, they're due at 100,000 miles.  I removed the plastic cover on the valve cover and pulled the plug wires to access the plugs and was surprised to find oil pooled around two of the plugs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this is not normal /expected.  Where is the oil coming from and what do I do to stop that leak?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T16:10:47.940" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T16:10:47.940" Title="Why is there oil pooled around the spark plugs on a 2.0L Zetec in a 1998 Ford Contour LX?" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|contour|cdw27|zetec|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3186" CreationDate="2012-04-01T22:08:20.700" Score="2" ViewCount="3423" Body="&lt;p&gt;The driver side front inside door handle and lock tab are not working on a 1998 Ford Contour LX I'm working on.  There is no tension on either part.  The only way to lock the door is from the outside with a key.  The driver is rolling down the window to let themselves out by using the outside handle.  The windows are manual and so are the door locks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's broke and how do I get at it and fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T14:24:49.800" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T14:24:49.800" Title="Driver side front inside door handle does not work on a 1998 Ford Contour LX" Tags="|ford|locks|door|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3183" CreationDate="2012-04-01T22:21:15.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is the valve cover gasket.  You can try to tighten the bolts that hold the cover, but most likely the gasket or seal needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T21:05:16.507" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T21:05:16.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2012-04-01T22:31:45.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the inside door handle and see if the linkage is diconnected.You might be lucky and be able to reattach it if you can retrieve it from inside the door.If not remove the inside door panel you will find a rod has become diconnected between the inside door handle and the latch.It is possible that the handle broke or a retaining clip fell off allowing the rod to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T22:31:45.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3168" CreationDate="2012-04-02T01:44:58.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For troubleshooting, here are some things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the balance on your stereo to see if you can hear the crackling more to the left or the right, or both. Similarly you can adjust the fade to front / rear to see if the crackling is more in the front or the back. Once you have determined which speaker is causing the crackling, turn the stereo volume down low.  If it still crackles at low volume, you may have a blown speaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take off the door panel and physically inspect the speaker.  Make sure the cone does not have any cracks or tears in it. If there are any tears or cracks, the speaker is blown and needs to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also inspect the speaker connections.  Make sure they are secure and there are no signs of corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be where I would start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:44:58.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2012-04-02T07:04:55.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If buying one of the pre-assembled sets is not an option, the following answers will assume you will keep your tools in some form of carry bag...&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can begin by alienating all your sockets, and sorting them. Purchase a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=socket%20rais&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;oq=socket%20rais&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=products-cc.3...27187l29260l0l29674l11l11l0l2l2l0l359l1022l6j2j0j1l9l0.#hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=c015T8bCH-irsQL37OWhBA&amp;amp;ved=0CGQQBSgA&amp;amp;q=socket%20rails&amp;amp;spell=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=6725ad5980d5a190&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=903&quot;&gt;socket rails&lt;/a&gt;, which can be had for cheap, and snap them on. Insert these into your bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, alienate your wrenches and sort them. They sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=wrench%20pouch&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;resnum=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=903&amp;amp;ix=acb&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=4283915503823760274&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=UU15T8qhDOL-sQKD-pyhBA&amp;amp;ved=0CJMBEPMCMAA&quot;&gt;holders&lt;/a&gt; that,&#xA;once all wrenches are in place, can be rolled and stored. You can&#xA;have a couple of these for all your wrenches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screwdrivers are a bit tricky, as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=socket%20rais&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;oq=socket%20rais&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=products-cc.3...27187l29260l0l29674l11l11l0l2l2l0l359l1022l6j2j0j1l9l0.#sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=screwdriver%20holder&amp;amp;oq=screwdriver%20&amp;amp;aq=2&amp;amp;aqi=g4&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3.2.0l4.28448l37897l0l39999l16l16l0l0l0l1l494l1694l14j4-2l16l0.frgbld.&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=6725ad5980d5a190&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=903&quot;&gt;holders&lt;/a&gt; vary, but it can still&#xA;be achieved in the same fashion. I recommend a small magnetic tray or rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the items will likely lay in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=socket%20rais&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;oq=socket%20rais&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=products-cc.3...27187l29260l0l29674l11l11l0l2l2l0l359l1022l6j2j0j1l9l0.#sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=tool%20bag&amp;amp;oq=tool%20b&amp;amp;aq=1&amp;amp;aqi=g4&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3.1.0l4.34871l36213l1l38021l6l6l0l0l0l0l52l301l6l6l0.frgbld.&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=6725ad5980d5a190&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=903&quot;&gt;bag&lt;/a&gt;, and you can just pull as need it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, the best thing to get when working in small spaces is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=socket%20rais&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;oq=socket%20rais&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=products-cc.3...27187l29260l0l29674l11l11l0l2l2l0l359l1022l6j2j0j1l9l0.#sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=magnetic%20tool%20tray&amp;amp;oq=magnetic%20tool&amp;amp;aq=2&amp;amp;aqi=g4&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.1.2.0l4.4008l4008l5l5536l1l1l0l0l0l0l47l47l1l1l0.frgbld.&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=6725ad5980d5a190&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=903&quot;&gt;magnetic tray&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to store your tools in a small place, and once you know what you need you can simply lay it on your tray, and stick the tray near your work area. I worked as a BMW mechanic, and loved my tool cart. It was set up similarly, but instead of a bag, I had a cart. I decided to return to school for my degree, but worked aviation maintenance over night for 3 years. I used to carry a small bag with me when I went to do jobs inside of the hull, or APU bay. They can be time savers. Also, magnetic boards :-) Extreme time savers, as they also help prevent lost tools. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T07:04:55.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2427" CreationDate="2012-04-02T14:21:36.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcraftservice.com/?link=002&amp;amp;urlfile=/pubs/content/~WO7FOC/~MUS~LEN/40/07frdmg1e.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; the maintenance schedule for you vehicle.  I don't see any of the suggestions listed and they sound like solutions to problems you don't have.  If something is wrong, fix it, but I would ask the dealer what problem you have that these suggestions are supposed to fix?  If they were truly preventative, they'd be in the Ford service schedule.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T14:21:36.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2474" CreationDate="2012-04-02T14:35:34.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always check &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepairPal&lt;/a&gt; for estimates on repairs, but that's not going to do you any good since it sound's like you're in the UK.  There might be a similar site for your location, but I didn't find it with a quick search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect the timing belt to go about 5 miles after the mileage listed in the service schedule for inspection / replacement.  Find out whether you've got an interference engine or not.  If not, you can maybe let it slide a bit at the risk of stranding yourself, but if it is, absolutely do not delay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T14:35:34.903" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2012-04-02T20:21:22.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly support PetroEkos's suggestion of a tool bag.  I'll go even further and suggest that you invest in a separate job bag: i.e., take some time before the task to reach into your (now nicely organized) selection of tools and make a good guess as to which tools you're &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; going to need.  You usually won't get the inventory exactly right but you'll have reduced the wrong-tool-curse-walk-back-to-other-bag frequency significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the outdoor point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Working outdoors, how can one keep tools clean of dirt and other&#xA;  debris that may not be exactly friendly to your car's engine bay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be a shade-tree mechanic: the trees in my yard drop acorns with accuracy and malice.  Unless you have better behaved trees, stay out from under them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy some cheap blankets or carpet remnants to put down on your work area and keep down the dirt and dust.  This has the added benefit of making it harder to lose tools in the tall grass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up some cheap magnetic knife racks.  This will give you a good place to slap a tool and make you feel like it's not going to roll or get kicked away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a safety requirement: never &lt;strong&gt;ever&lt;/strong&gt; jack up the car unless you are certain of the material bearing the load.  The soil where I live is approximately 50% rocks, with new stones sprouting each winter.  If I were to put the car on jack stands in my yard, there's a good chance that one stand would slowly sink, tilting on a rock and drop the car on me with little or no warning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In situations when I didn't have a nice concrete surface to support the jack stands, I've had good luck with 2x12s of pressure-treated wood.  They hold the stand steady and spread the load over a large area (so they don't immediately sink into the dirt).  As always with personal safety, you have to make the call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T20:21:22.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-02T20:39:55.757" Score="13" ViewCount="4347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there computer software that lets you see parts of a car for common car models, like European brands, and browse them in 3D. Is there anything that would have autocad schematics or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T07:04:57.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T04:29:03.197" Title="Car Parts Software To View Parts of a Car" Tags="|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3196" CreationDate="2012-04-02T23:57:52.563" Score="1" ViewCount="1303" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the procedure to check the fluid level in the rear differential?  The RPO code for this particular rear end is G80.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T21:47:17.057" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:47:17.057" Title="How do I check the fluid level in the rear end (differential) on a 1996 Caprice?" Tags="|chevrolet|rear-differential|b-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3263" CreationDate="2012-04-03T00:12:34.853" Score="3" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I associate a new keyless entry remote on a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt?  I've got the original chipped keys.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:20:40.903" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:20:40.903" Title="What's the procedure to associate a new remote with a 2006 Cobalt?" Tags="|chevrolet|keyless-entry|cobalt|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2012-04-03T00:57:59.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the side of the differential housing you will find a plug fitting.The fitting looks similar to an allenhead bolt but it has a four sided hole that a 1/2 ratchet extension will fit into.Remove the plug insert your finger straight in the hole.If it has oil in it the level is ok.If you can't feel any oil you need to fill it to the level of the hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T00:57:59.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3781" CreationDate="2012-04-03T05:21:22.283" Score="1" ViewCount="12393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a (South African) Opel (Chev? Vauxhall?) Corsa bakkie (ute?). But I think this is more a general question than specific to this type of car. However, this model I own does not have many onboard computers etc - it is a really basic car - so I'm hoping the fix to this question is quite basic too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ignition is switched on, the hooter/horn doesn't work very well. Pressing on the steering wheel only sometimes makes a proper sound. Other times it makes a very meek &amp;amp; mild &quot;peep&quot; sound as if it were dying. Most of the time pressing the wheel does absolutely nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ignition is switched off, the hooter/horn works perfectly by pressing on the steering wheel. Every time. So that rules out the steering wheel switch, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when I removed the steering wheel, I could get the horn to sound by just connecting the wires with a screwdriver when the car was off - doing this with the car on just did nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the horn should not work when ignition is off, only when on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it seems like the switch is wired up wrong, maybe to 2 live wires instead of a ground? But I don't really know much about how to track this down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this enough info to get some advice on the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T16:44:47.320" Title="Horn / hooter works when car is off, not when car is on?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2012-04-03T09:17:27.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has it always done this or is it a recent problem? I would suspect a loose connection somewhere that is shorting - hence why the problem is intermittant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the only easy way to diagnose such an issue is using trial and error. If you don't have one already, get hold of a workshop manual for the car (e.g. Haynes), which will have a wiring diagram in the back. This should tell you the colour of wires you are looking for. Beginning at the wheel, try and trace the wires for the horn, and hopefully you'll find somewhere they are damaged, or a loose connection in a plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A multimeter is also a very useful tool in this situation, as you can check for expected voltages and continuity as you go along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has an adjustable steering colum, that'd be the first place I would look - anywhere the wires are asked to move is a potential weak spot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T09:17:27.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3098" CreationDate="2012-04-03T10:03:20.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sound usually comes from resonance when pads sharp edge touches the disc slightly or a small piece of stone stuck on the pad. Usually it's not serious and will go by itself after braking several dozen of times, but if you want to be safe - get the car to the service-shop and ask them to take a look and maybe grind the pads sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other more serious options, that probably do not apply to your description, as they would produce sound at both directions and range of braking forces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheap/not-original pads that wear unevenly;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you could have damaged your discs with hard breaking, they overheated and are no longer flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T10:03:20.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T10:34:09.930" Score="5" ViewCount="3196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a first timer replacing (front) brake pads in my Nissan Pulsar 1.8 (hatch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had problems removing the caliper bolts on both sides - after successfully removing them, I removed the old pads and only tentatively replaced the bolts for further work the next day (Today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I affixed the new pads for the right side and started pumping the brakes - whilst doing this, I heard some squirting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the left side I noticed a lot of brake fluid having leaked. &lt;code&gt;I'm not sure if this has anything to do with having the bolts only loosely screwed in?&lt;/code&gt; There isn't any damage to the brake line as I properly suspended the caliper making sure no kinks or damage was to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper on the left side was covered in fluid - I thought it would still be possible to at least get the new pads in. Using my C-clamp, I wasn't able to push the piston back; it would seem as thought it was stuck. &lt;code&gt;Therefore, I disconnected the brake line, thinking it might have something to do with pressure?&lt;/code&gt; Having the caliper completely disconnected, I re-attached my C-clamp and screwed it in as far as possible. Now the C-clamp seems to be stuck in the caliper (reading now, I should have used a wood block or one of the old pads rather than screwing the C-clamp directly into the piston), the screw top rotates, but doesn't move the screw shaft. I'm thinking this might be due to the brake fluid on the clamp acting as a lubricant, &lt;code&gt;any ideas on how I might unstuck it?&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for any of the questions highlighted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqOou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stuck piston&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bhduM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The removed C-Clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="1673" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T10:16:14.990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:44:44.917" Title="C-clamp stuck in brake caliper" Tags="|brakes|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2012-04-03T14:22:05.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a car makes a ticking sound (that's not usual to the owner), it drags when you start it (this is an indication that the battery needs to be replaced) and lastly, it doesn't start at all. The best way to check if the battery is dead or not is to have a look at the alternator. It might not be in working condition, and that means it's not your battery; it's your alternator. Check your car's battery on a regular basis, my friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kerstin Shed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T18:47:22.000" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T18:47:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3200" CreationDate="2012-04-03T14:46:07.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, You should not pump the brakes with any of the pads missing - as you have discovered, this results in the pistons being forced out of the calipers! You probably then found that the piston wasn't quite square in the caliper, and re-settled once you had removed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take it you have now removed the offending caliper from the car? (if not, do so now that you have disconnected the brake line). From the way I read your question, the thread of the clamp is stuck? Without seeing it or knowing the design of the clamp you're using, it is difficult to suggest a solution here - most c-clamps I have used have the screw handle and shaft as one casting, so turning the handle would always unscrew the shaft. Can you try getting a grip on the shaft with a pair of mole grips / stilsons or similar and turning it with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have removed the clamp, it is vital to remove all traces of brake fluid from anywhere it shouldn't be - it will very easily contaminate the pads and result in the brakes failing. It also makes a very effective paint stripper if it gets on the car bodywork. The caliper should then be cleaned very thoroughly to prevent any dirt getting in it, reassembled and bled properly (including bleeding the other side and the rear brakes, in the correct order and using the correct type of fluid, both of which will be specified in the workshop manual) to make sure there is no air in the system - the fluid must come from a new, sealed bottle to ensure there is no contamination, and you should bleed the system through fully to replace the old fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are a first timer at brake work, If you are in any doubt as to how to go about any of these jobs, I would suggest that you take it to a professional to sort this problem, as brakes are too important to risk. You should be able to change pads easily in the future now that you know what not to do however!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T14:46:07.517" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3200" CreationDate="2012-04-03T19:59:12.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you reached the end of the threads and went past them.Try pulling the c clamp handle while turning and maybe it will catch and unsrew itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T19:59:12.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2012-04-03T21:55:31.657" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ignition is mounted in the steering column I would suspect a wire is being pinched by the linkage in the steering column when the key is turned.If the column was taken apart it can be difficult to get all the wires back in the correct position.A simple solution may be to wire a horn button thru a relay and attach it to the dash if it is allowed in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T23:53:28.233" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T23:53:28.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3152" CreationDate="2012-04-03T22:12:47.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For A, the only option is really a bottle of fluid with an anti-leak agent.  I don't know of anybody that fixes power steering pumps apart from aftermarket suppliers that refurbish them.  But the way that works is you buy a new refurbished pump, and when you give them your old one, they give you the core charge back.  Have you checked the fluid level?  Maybe it's just got a leak and it's low?  I'm not sure I've ever heard of a power steering pump that is quiet when forced to work hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for B, maybe.  You really need to compare apples to apples.  The dealer will probably quote you list price for a new part (which is not what they're paying for it, just what they want to charge you for it), something pretty close to what came from the factory if it's available.  It sounds like you're pricing refurbished aftermarket parts.  You also need to clarify whether the dealer price is parts only or parts and labor.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Repairpal&lt;/a&gt; says $431-$568 parts+labor, $120-$160 labor, $306-$408 parts for my locale.  You can get the best prices buying your own parts, but trying to find somebody to install your parts for you while still warrantying the work is tough, though it can be done.  I guarantee you'll pay more on labor, depending on the markup sometimes you're better of just paying it.  It's always good to know what you could get it for yourself (Though again, apples to apples).  Just walk up to the parts department and ask them for a price.  It should be pretty close to what the service department quoted you for parts.  If it's not, something is rotten somewhere.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for C, expect the part to fail as soon as the warranty expires.  Always go for the long / lifetime warranty when you're paying for a lot of labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T22:19:43.620" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T22:19:43.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T23:13:06.253" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 ford econoline van. They tore out the ignition switch and tried to steal it. I replaced the ignition switch but now it is like there is no power. I checked the regular fuses in the panel below the dash and under the hood and they are all good. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1675" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:20:08.993" Title="Thieves tore out my ignition switch" Tags="|electrical|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-04T11:18:54.210" Score="1" ViewCount="4096" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time replacing oil filter and oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've drained the old oil from the oil tank and I now want to remove the existing filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the life of me, it seems as though the filter is in the most awkward position ever; behind and under the engine block. I can't reach it from the bonnet, and I can't reach it comfortably from under the car having removed one of the wheels (right wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make matters worse, the existing filter is in very tight. So any time I get a grip on the filter (can only physically get one hand on it), I can't loosen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an oil filter clamp for removing an oil filter using a ratchet socket; but I can't get it working with only one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that I need to get a screw driver into it from under the car, but, I need to use a very long screw driver which is almost impossible to hammer into the filter whilst I'm under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T03:57:49.997" Title="Nissan Pulsar ST1.8 oil filter change" Tags="|oil|nissan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2012-04-04T12:39:38.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting hold of a strap type filter wrench. These have either a thin metal strap or a chain that you wrap around the filter and tighten. I've had quite a few where I have only been able to turn it a few degrees before having to slacken off the wrench and move it round, but once you've got it moving you can usually undo it the rest of the way by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised you can't get to it from under the car though, usually you can for low-mounted ones, you just need to crawl futher under! (I'm sure they're deliberately designed to maximise the chance of you getting a faceful of hot oil as you try and change them...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I take it you've jacked the car up and supported it on proper axle stands, and aren't trying to get under it at normal road height or up on a jack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T12:39:38.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3232" CreationDate="2012-04-04T14:41:53.817" Score="6" ViewCount="76492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 21&quot; Craftsman push lawn mower with a Briggs and Stratton 7 hp engine that is about 6 years old.  I've got it cutting on the highest setting, and it still has issues cutting the grass without loosing rpms in the thicker areas of the lawn.  I've done 0 maintence to it besides putting some oil in it this year because it looked low, and actually getting the blades sharpened (that helped immensely), but I still feel like it should be powering through the gas more than it does.  What are some steps I can take to improve the power / cutting ability of my lawn mower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T17:49:48.737" Title="What can I do to give my lawn mower more power?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-04T18:36:47.597" Score="2" ViewCount="4783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gearbox fine when cold.  After about 25 mile drive it sticks in some gears, revs up between changing gear.  Got oil changed. No difference. 2007 model.  79,000 miles. Can anyone help?   Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T14:32:14.120" Title="Vauxhall Vectra Automatic CDTI 150 Gearbox Problem" Tags="|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2012-04-04T20:00:41.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest changing the sparkplug and the air filter.Adding some carb cleaner(I'm partial to Techron)to the gas tank.Just add an appropriate amount for the size of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T20:00:41.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-04-04T21:44:59.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbYYb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbYYb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:38:18.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:38:18.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-04T21:44:59.420" Score="0" Body="A self propelled two wheeled motor vehicle with an engine larger than 50cc's.  " OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T21:15:13.897" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:15:13.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-04-04T21:45:31.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T21:45:31.963" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T21:45:31.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-04T21:45:31.963" Score="0" Body="Note that shopping questions are off-topic." OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T00:22:22.127" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T00:22:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2012-04-04T23:32:29.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go to your local autoparts supplier and look at the display of filter wrenchs.The types vary from straps,bands and some that look like a socket that slides over the filter.If the filter is that difficult to remove someone makes a tool that will fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T23:32:29.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-04-05T01:26:20.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem you have to change your control box more or less $ 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, mine runs perfectly since replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T01:26:20.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3223" CreationDate="2012-04-05T02:02:11.377" Score="4" ViewCount="5103" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; Chevy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Cavalier (4 cyl.)  Automatic&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 1993&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Miles:&lt;/strong&gt; 230K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally my Cavalier drives just fine without problems. However, &lt;strong&gt;if I drive for 45+ minutes then it will sputter and stall out on me as I come to a stop&lt;/strong&gt;. If I put it in park the car will start just fine, but the minute I put it into drive it will stall out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get it running again is to &lt;strong&gt;A.)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Let it sit for 20-30 minutes&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;B.)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Rev the engine and throw it into drive and then punch the gas really hard&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funny thing about the second option is that once I get it started again it will typically drive without stalling again for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do it just right, I can keep it from dying by giving it some gas while breaking at a stop, and once it makes it past the sputters, it is idles just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps Already Taken:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned Throttle Body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced IAC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur at best, so I'm pretty much at a total loss as to where to look next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T03:34:13.853" Title="Car Stalls When Coming to a Stop" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3222" CreationDate="2012-04-05T03:21:47.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) Solenoid is not releasing. It's a common problem for GM cars around those years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically your Torque converter is fluid coupler between the engine and transmission where your clutch would be in a manual transmission. Once you get up to speed the TCC locks up so that there is a one to one connection inside the converter. It's supposed to release when you are coming to a stop if it doesn't it's like coming to a stop without pushing the clutch in on a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a relatively easy fix, once get the transmission side cover off, just two bolts and a few wires that plugs in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update my answer tomorrow with more details in the mean time you can confirm this is the problem by un-pluging the TCC connector. It's usually a 4 wire connector that goes in the side of the transmission near the shift linkage. Removing this plug will prevent the TCC from going into lockup, it won't hurt anything but your gas mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the plug may look like, I can't remember if this is the style on your transmission or not.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B6ZiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture with the cover off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FlaZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.v6z24.com/howto/tcc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the part (yours may be slightly different)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWCCW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestvalueautoparts.com/Replacement_Parts/CHEVROLET/CAVALIER/Trans_Solenoid_Misc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T03:34:13.853" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T03:34:13.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1434" CreationDate="2012-04-05T05:04:54.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always check &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Repairpal&lt;/a&gt; before considering any repairs.  I find that it tends to be on the low side of estimates I get from shops, but maybe I'm not shopping around enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T05:04:54.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2012-04-05T05:42:59.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instructions &lt;a href=&quot;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  The canister is under the driver's side passenger seat and you need to jack the vehicle up (secure with jack stands) and remove the nearest wheel.  Remove tubing, electrical connector and one bolt and it comes out.  Once out, you can replace the whole thing or hopefully just replace the valve.  Sounds like something I could do on a Saturday, but your mileage may vary.  You'll need a jack and some jack stands, socket wrench with extensions, and some common socket sizes since the post does not list the size.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T05:42:59.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3227" CreationDate="2012-04-05T07:06:18.067" Score="5" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;My air vents blow out air. That's it. They do it well, too. Two weeks ago, when I turned it to high heat, the air was HOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now it's just air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC doesn't work either, but I know where that problem comes from. But what would cause the heat to cut out? I thought the hot air was just fanned in from the engine, so it should be heated automatically...this seems strange to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I drive a 97 Subaru Legacy; I know nothing else. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1631" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T13:40:08.207" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T13:40:08.207" Title="Where'd my heat go?" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3226" CreationDate="2012-04-05T11:41:00.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the coolant temperature if you can (if it's an OBD-II car, some readers can give you coolant temperature).  If you've got a coolant temp gauge, see if it looks any lower at all (most are pretty hard to read though, one tiny tick down can be a HUGE difference in coolant temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a failed thermostat that's sticking open.  I had that recently on one of my cars.  Temperature is supposed to be around 190F.  Car made tons of heat.  Temp started only getting up to 160-180F and the heater basically quit working (amazing since it's not really much difference in coolant temp!).  New thermostat installed, temp is back to 190F and the heater works great again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T11:41:00.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3230" CreationDate="2012-04-05T14:30:41.807" Score="2" ViewCount="16884" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the title. If the tracking on a car is adjusted by adjusting the threaded part on the track rod end, how exactly does the tracking go 'out' of alignment over time, and/or how does hitting a kerb or a pothole cause the alignment to shift ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything seems to be rigid, so is it a case of something bending slightly. If the tracking is adjusted using a threaded rod on the track rod end, how does hitting a kerb or a pothole seem to move this adjustment around ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T22:25:43.197" Title="How does the tracking on the car get hit 'out'" Tags="|alignment|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3228" CreationDate="2012-04-05T17:41:18.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it's mostly due to wear on various joints that control the exact angle of the suspension.  Doesn't take much wear on a joint all the way at the end of an arm to cause a measurable angular change on the other end.  Obviously a severe curb hit will cause bending to knock the alignment out too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that, barring curb hits, it's not much of an issue anymore.  I've given up on the regular scheduled alignment checks as it never moves on my car.  I now just get the alignment done when work is performed that would cause a change to it.  I would of course also get it done if I observed a handling or wear issue developing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T17:41:18.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3228" CreationDate="2012-04-05T18:17:24.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alignment goes out after a hit due to bending of components. There are three main things that are looked at during an alignment, and a couple of secondary measurements. I will only discuss the main three, which are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;camber&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;caster&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;toe&lt;/a&gt;. The toe and camber are usually the ones that are adjusted when you get your alignment, as the caster is normally set by the vehicle manufacturer. Caster allows for assistance in turning, as it returns the wheel to a centered position. Camber allows for the tires to be placed flat on the ground during a turn, assisting the vehicle while turning. Toe assist in your steering, as it determines which direction the vehicle travels in relation to a straight center line. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;When your alignment is off, it is usually caused by your camber, and toe. These two measurements are normally controlled by your suspension (struts, or mounts) and the tie rods (thin metal screw rods). As we all know roads are not the greatest in most areas of the world, so as the vehicle is traveling, under constant vibrations, it will make some of this parts come loose. This allows them to move around, and slowly come out of alignment. Also, air in your tires is a big factor in your alignment, so if your vehicle is aligned with flat tires, it will be a horrible drive when you air them up. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lastly, as Brian mentioned, wear on the joints will give the suspension movement that contributes to the misalignment of your vehicle. This can either be caused by slow bending of components, or the extra play accelerates the loosening process of the nuts holding all those components in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:17:24.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3206" CreationDate="2012-04-05T18:20:08.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the vehicle have any anti-theft systems that might need to be reset? This could have been triggered when they tore out the ignition cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:20:08.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2012-04-05T20:58:33.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the Spark Plug and Air Filter are good ideas, and are general maintenance items. The carb cleaner could also be sprayed into the carb through the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those items dont restore power, there is a good chance your motor's compression is low - and you need to rebuild it. That could be anything from new gaskets to needing machine work done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1681" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T20:58:33.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2012-04-05T21:03:18.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is far fetched, but maybe when the car is running its pulling too much power (through spark) for the horn to have any &quot;left over&quot; juice to use? I know I've seen headlights go dim in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your alternator isn't working efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1681" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T21:03:18.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3314" CreationDate="2012-04-06T01:17:03.687" Score="0" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a Ford Contour with a loose airbag (still attached to the wheel, it just rattles on rough pavement), how do you tighten it?  What type / size are the screws?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T14:32:41.383" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T14:32:41.383" Title="Loose airbag in 1998 Ford Contour LX" Tags="|ford|supplemental-restraint-system|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="44352" CreationDate="2012-04-06T01:23:31.290" Score="3" ViewCount="25682" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be causing a popping / clunking sound from the rear end of a 1996 Caprice?  The sound is only present (or apparent at least) after the vehicle has been driven for a while and seems to correlate with the brakes being gently applied or backing up.  Anything I should check besides the differential and the rear drum brakes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention the vehicle has a torque converter with a higher than stock stall speed that went in with a fresh 4L60E.  There is no torque creep to speak of and there is a bit of a whiplash effect when accelerating from a stop with a heavy foot on the gas.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differential (G80 RPO) was low on fluid.  It was leaking out of the pinion seal, which is a common problem on this generation of this platform.  Fluid has been changed and the seal replaced. The noise has changed, but it's still there.  Not as many pops/clunks, and the frequency has slowed, too.  I wonder if the fluid was low enough long enough to damage the rear end?  I suppose it could be age related, too.  It's probably the original rear end, and it has over 150,000 miles on it.  Front and rear brakes appear to be good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is present when letting off the brakes after a stop after driving at highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T17:47:46.770" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T21:54:12.427" Title="Popping / Clunking noise coming from rear of vehicle" Tags="|chevrolet|noise|b-body|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3237" CreationDate="2012-04-06T01:25:12.740" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you top off / fill the differential on a 1996 Chevy Caprice?  Can it be done without taking the cover off and changing the gasket?  Any gotchas to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T20:23:09.940" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T20:23:09.940" Title="Top off differential fluid" Tags="|b-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2012-04-06T01:51:33.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two methods I use.One is to attach a piece of hose to the pointed tip of the gear oil container and stick the other end in the differential.Then squeeze the bottle.The other method is to use a suction gun that looks like a big metal hypodermic syringe.You suck the oil in then push in the plunger and squirt the oil into the fill hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T01:51:33.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2012-04-06T01:58:03.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The universal joints.If they are really bad you may be able to see signs of rust on them or if you are under the vehicle.You can also grip the drive shaft while the car is supported on jackstands and the rear tires off the ground and see if you can push/pull it and look for movement.If you twist the driveshaft by hand you may be able to feel the click in the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T01:58:03.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3240" CreationDate="2012-04-06T02:37:39.773" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordcontour.org/topic/10465-auto-tranny-fluidfilter-change-question/#entry58276&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;statement&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Never pressure flush the CD4E...&quot; worries me a bit.  Should it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:37:38.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:37:38.657" Title="Should an automatic transaxle be pressure flushed?" Tags="|flush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3239" CreationDate="2012-04-06T04:45:30.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never pressure flushed any drivetrain components. I have also ever heard of anyone else doing it, so I wouldn't recommend it. Most axles, transmissions, engines, and any other lubes I worked at for BMW were drain and fill. The also never pressure flush the coolant, or power steering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T04:45:30.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2012-04-06T16:47:24.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be the shocks - if the mounting points are loose, reversing with the brakes gently applied could cause them to rock backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T16:47:24.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2012-04-06T17:08:51.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have similar symptoms when my sway bar bushings need lubrication.  There's a distinct sensation at low speeds where dumps will cause relatively sedate deflections and rotations of the bars.  The bushings will briefly bind, release, bind, release, etc. in fairly quick succession.  It can sound like a pop - clunk if it's just once catch and release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is pretty easy to check: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray penetrating oil liberally on the sway bar bushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow to soak in (some minutes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive to a location where you can normally reproduce the sound and give it a try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bushings are worn out, they are relatively easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T17:08:51.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2012-04-06T17:39:34.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a single click it may be the brakes. The self adjusters activate when the brakes are pressed when backing up, they are under spring tension and can make an audible clicking sound when they adjust. If the adjuster screw is seized the noise would be much louder as the adjuster rakes across the teeth of the screw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T17:39:34.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T18:13:48.060" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in OC, Ca. My long term goal is to buy a good used Honda Odyssey family van. please let me know how do I do it. I am on a low budget and looking to get good bang for the buck. I have never bought a used car before. What are the details and how do you go about doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1685" LastEditorUserId="7748" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:39:40.687" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:39:40.687" Title="Want to buy Honda Odyssey van" Tags="|honda|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-04-06T19:31:10.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2012-04-06T19:07:07.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a mechanic you trust.Explain that you are looking for a used car and what would they charge to put it on the lift and check it out for you,time frame involved,advance notice etc.Do some research on line on the vehicles you are interested in.Check what the sale prices are like in your area.Find a vehicle and have your mechanic check it.If the seller is unwilling to allow this walk away quickly and don't look back.Once you have the mechanics report figure the cost of any repairs into the purchase price.Just because something is found doesn't mean it isn't a good deal.It is mearly a bargaining point for the purchase aggrement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T19:07:07.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2012-04-06T19:59:40.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to answer this.  I found the actuator behind the globebox door.  It was actually very easy to install once I found it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1363" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T19:59:40.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3302" CreationDate="2012-04-06T20:52:34.607" Score="3" ViewCount="2960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for a few days now on how to reset the service reminder that keeps showing every time I start the car. I know the car repair shop can do this, but I would like to know how to do it myself, since most of the service can be done by myself or friends, and I do not want to pay a loads of money just to get rid of an &quot;on screen reminder&quot;. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does anyone know how to reset the service reminder on a 2002 Mercedes-Benz CLK 200 Kompressor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T06:42:08.140" Title="How to reset the service reminder on a 2002 Mercedes-Benz CLK 200 Kompressor?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|mercedes-benz|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2617" CreationDate="2012-04-07T00:43:14.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything I've been able to find says the tank has to come out to get at the pump.  I'm not sure how to solve the issue with the battery mount.  It's probably worth checking to see if you can get at it from the wheel well with the wheel off (might have to to remove the fender liner).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can get at the pump, you can verify that it's getting power with a multimeter or a test light.  If it's not getting power, the suspects will be the switch/button in the passenger compartment, the relay and a control module, not necessarily in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-07T00:51:50.160" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T00:51:50.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="981" CreationDate="2012-04-07T01:12:51.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autozone.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Autozone&lt;/a&gt; has vehicle repair guides and job diagrams, but only for some models/parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T01:12:51.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3319" CreationDate="2012-04-07T04:41:07.530" Score="5" ViewCount="43004" Body="&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I just got my 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor Limited 4WD back after 4 weeks in the shop, there was a problem with the transmission and $1800 later the transmission was completely replaced. &#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I was driving when the Service Engine Soon light reared its ugly face. Luckily I recently bought a OBD-II Diagnostic Transceiver so I was able to quickly find any problem there may be. The software returned a single error code P0431 which after a Google search I found to be linked to Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2.&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;I must preface the actual question by saying I have no intention to do the work myself.  &#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;I would like to know exactly what this error means. &#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Might this problem be related to the service that was just completed?&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;How long can I go without fixing this before it becomes a serious problem?&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;How much might it cost me when it comes time to do the repairs?&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Someone mentioned to me this problem would affect my car's fuel efficiency. Is this true?&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1687" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T19:53:03.687" Title="How do I fix P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2" Tags="|mitsubishi|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2012-04-07T13:26:24.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A defective ignition switch, which has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/27/business/13-deaths-untold-heartache-from-gm-defect.html?_r=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;attributed to several deaths&lt;/a&gt;, and caused several models of GM cars to spontaneously shutdown during operations. These reports very accurately describe what we noticed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; The dealership said that the purge valve solenoid and vapor canister were contaminated with fuel. That's what they said that was wrong, and we got those parts fixed (several hundred $ IIRC). Unfortunately, the problem resurfaced. By that time we'd moved, so we took the car to a totally different dealership. They also could not reproduce the problem reliably and there was no code on the computer. They called around to a dozen or so other dealerships and ultimately came to the conclusion that the Hemi engines just do not idle well and some of them have a tendency to just shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have corroboration or evidence on this next bit, which is just my speculation, but I suspect that there is just a stack up of various tolerances and timings in the system and gains set in the automatic idle throttle controller in the car's computer that for some engines under some conditions stack up in a way that causes the engine to shut off unpredictably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; They said there was nothing they could really do to fix it. Ultimately we traded in the car because it became too frustrating to deal with, which was a shame because otherwise it was awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="10501" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T21:34:20.437" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T21:34:20.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-07T23:02:43.920" Score="0" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ran into a big problem with my driver side front axle on my 1995 toyota 4-runner. for some reason its not wanting to act right. I replaced the axle, bearings, rotor, sway bar, bushings and everything. For some reason the axle is still messing up, assuming its the axle itself, can I just remove it and drive it in 2 wheel drive. I don't need 4 wheel, I just need it to work. Is this okay to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1690" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T06:11:42.070" Title="Toyota 4-runner front axle" Tags="|toyota|4wd|axle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3257" CreationDate="2012-04-08T00:26:40.813" Score="2" ViewCount="3431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had all my brakes, calipers, and something else related to that replaced. Brand new. And they're working perfectly. So why are they squealing &lt;em&gt;whenever&lt;/em&gt; I touch the brake pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T08:33:49.820" Title="New brakes squealing?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3256" CreationDate="2012-04-08T05:39:51.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like they didn't put any disk brake quite on the back of the pads, or used cheap pads without shims, or just didn't use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/475/85&quot;&gt;See my answer here&lt;/a&gt; for more information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T05:39:51.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2012-04-08T15:04:20.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a bad head gasket if everything else is in working order. Hot gases are introduced into the cooling system under load(hence why it goes down when you let off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1691" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T15:04:20.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3274" CreationDate="2012-04-09T00:37:47.980" Score="2" ViewCount="7867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty new at this but I'm trying to learn more about my lawn mower.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am having problem starting the lawn mower, I've tried the following steps to diagnose the problem ... maybe I can get more tips to see what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've changed the fuel filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is brand new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I check the spark plugs, air filter?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or does anyone know that whether it has a fuel pump (can't seem to find this answer on the web).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:36:52.257" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:19:18.003" Title="Problem starting Husqvarna Kohler 20 hp Gas Powered Riding Mower" Tags="|engine|lawnmower|husqvarna|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2012-04-09T04:29:44.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We wound up swapping out the radiator, and that solved it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T04:29:44.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-09T16:12:20.287" Score="4" ViewCount="7206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 SAAB 9-3.  I was told that I should use a high octane fuel...that it would extend the life of the turbo.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1695" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T14:09:04.257" Title="High Octane petrol's effect on turbos" Tags="|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2012-04-09T21:00:04.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest checking the owners manual to see what Sabb requires for a minimum octane fuel.It should be 93 octane for your motor.That being said higher octane fuel will not help the turbo last longer.Octane ratings are a measure of the fuels ability to resist engine knock.Engine knock is caused by fuel ignition with the piston in the incorrect position.Engine knock will cause engine damage and shorten it's life but won't effect the turbo.What you can do to increase the turbo's life is change the oil regularly and allow the engine to idle for a minute or two after highway speed driving.This allows the turbo to slow down while engine oil is still being circulated through the turbo's bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-04-10T01:31:48.647" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T01:31:48.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3195" CreationDate="2012-04-09T21:11:41.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that it requires a scan tool.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic601996.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; is for a 2005 Cobalt, but it should be the same as a 2006.  Also, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5505869_program-gm-keyless-remotes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eHow&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some vehicles, such as the Chevrolet Cobalt, Pontiac G6 and Chevrolet Malibu, do not have programmable remote systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T21:11:41.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2012-04-09T23:41:28.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white faceplate should pull straight off. Pull gently, most of them have clips that hold them in, be careful there may be some screws in the bottom near the cigarette lighter. After that there should be some screws visible to the right and left of the radio, removing those will let you slide it out. As for testing find the wiring diagram for the radio and determine what color the wires are that go to the speakers. You can use an ohm meter to check the speakers from the harness at the radio with the radio unplugged. They should be 4 ohms each, note some of the high end factory systems may have an amp between the radio and the speakers, that's where the wiring diagram comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T23:41:28.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2012-04-10T04:45:55.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should run on today's pump gas, though you'll probably find it runs better on plus or premium.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraethyllead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tetraethyl lead&lt;/a&gt; prevents valve wear and serves as an anti-knock agent.  Installing hardened valves and valve seats in the engine takes care of the first, while high octane gas will take care of the second.  You could reduce the engine compression to run it on regular pump gas.  An additive (lead or alternative) as BG100 is suggesting works, too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muscle cars didn't suddenly stop running when leaded gas was phased out.  They just didn't run as well and maybe ended up needing a rebuild sooner than they would have otherwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T04:45:55.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3318" CreationDate="2012-04-10T08:18:31.003" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a product that combines the classic car camera (records front for insurance purposes) and rear camera (for reverse) with a single display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if such product category exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:52:43.243" Title="Rear &amp; front camera" Tags="|camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-10T10:17:09.797" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for and any information on this particular model. Specifically wiring informtion.&#xA;Would also like to know how many were manufactured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T20:12:04.170" Title="1976 Beetle 1600 curved windscreen" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2012-04-10T13:45:09.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;mikes is right: the octane is required for the engine, not the turbocharger on it's own.  Said another way, the requirement for higher octane is a consequence of having a turbocharged motor vs. a normally aspirated one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've discussed some of the associated issues before.  Here is some relevant discussion on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/39/57&quot;&gt;What are the benefits of premium (high octane) petrol?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/862/57&quot;&gt;Difference between high octane and low octane?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/498/57&quot;&gt;Static vs. Effective compression: Why does higher effective compression not require higher octane gas?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T13:45:09.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3261" CreationDate="2012-04-10T14:09:04.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you run fuel that's too low an octane and the ECU is forced to retard the timing to compensate, then exhaust gas temperatures would go up...  Turbos run pretty hot to begin with.  Making it even hotter will in theory decrease it's lifespan some.  Measurable though?  I don't know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T14:09:04.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3279" CreationDate="2012-04-10T19:59:00.593" Score="1" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning unit on my 2005 Cavalier only engages when the engine is idling above a certain level (observationally, it appears to be between 1000 and 1200 rpm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the summer months, then, I would like to adjust the idle rpm of the engine so that the AC runs even when sitting still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other car specs (if needed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;automatic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1296" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T00:09:40.730" Title="Adjusting the idle setting on a 2005 Cavalier" Tags="|engine|ac|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T05:18:13.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 125cc bike. My cousin uses my bike more than me. He is more than 110 kg in weight. So I feel that my bike's shock absorbers will be break down soon because of my cousin. So is there any &lt;strong&gt;simple&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;cheap&lt;/strong&gt; way to maintain the shock absorber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1701" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T09:23:09.943" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T12:18:06.760" Title="Maintainance of shock absorber" Tags="|maintenance|motorcycle|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2012-04-11T08:08:31.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is two questions really; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the first is yes - all engines - whether bikes, cars, tractors etc have a &quot;run in period&quot; where you should limit the RPM and speed of acceleration until all the parts are fully bedded in.  Each manufacturer will have their own run in period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to the second is you should learn the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain/Belt drive tension: ensure you are able to correctly check and adjust the tension of the chain/belt drive - a loose chain/belt can cause excessive wear and/or break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lubrication: ensure you know how to clean and lubricate a chain (if fitted)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil level and maintenance - some bikes require you to check when the oil is warm, others cold, some on the side stand some vertical.  Check your manual for details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes: check there is no debris in the brakes and that they operate smoothly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights: regularly test all your lights, preferrably before each ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres: inspect them for cuts, debris in the tread and wear before each ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your bike clean: its easier to notice things that are not right if its clean; secondly if you regularly clean it you will have to look at all the bits up close regularly and be able to spot any leaks/breaks/wear more easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T08:08:31.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2012-04-11T09:26:01.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your cousin isn't using the bike for jumps and stunts, and is just riding it on roads this shouldn't pose a problem. As @Bob pointed out in the comment below - the spring is what takes the weight. The damper is what slows down the movement of the spring, preventing bouncing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shock bottoms out under his weight, then it may damage the mounting points or the shock itself, but under normal usage the piston is capable of moving it's full range without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T12:18:06.760" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T12:18:06.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2012-04-11T09:48:17.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all engines, you need spark, fuel and compression. If all three are present it will run, if any are missing it won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you try to start the engine, does it turn over at normal speed, as if it is trying to start, or does it spin a lot faster or slower than you might expect? If it is a lot faster, you may have low compression. If it is a lot slower, your starter motor is probably suspect (assuming it has a starter motor and isn't a pull-start like smaller mower engines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have good compression and the engine is turning at a good speed, the next thing to check is the spark. Take one plug out and check its colour against a colour chart*- this can often tell you a lot about what is going on. At this point, it is usually wise to check the plug gaps - you'll need a feeler gauge and the mower's workshop manual for the correct values. If the plug looks good, connect the plug to its lead, and lay it on top the engine so the body of the plug is earthed, then try starting and watch the plug - you should see a spark. If you don't, or it looks weak, that is the problem. If you get a good spark, replace the plug, re-gap the others, and move on to fuel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it is gravity-fed, there will have to be some kind of fuel pump somewhere in the system. A quick way to test this is to get a can of &quot;easy-start&quot; or similar. Remove the air filter, and (working in a well ventilated area) spray the easy-start directly into the intake, then try to start the engine - if it coughs, then fuel supply is the likely problem. If you've checked the fuel filter, then it is either a failed pump or a blockage in the line. Disconnect the inlet to the pump, and pop the end of it into a can of fuel (being careful, petrol vapour is highly flammable!), then try to start - being in mind will take longer than normal to suck the fuel through. If that works, it is a blockage in the line (or the fuel in the tank is crap). If not, remove the pump and test it off the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/images/reading_spark_plugs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This example&lt;/a&gt; being the first returned by a google image search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T09:48:17.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3271" CreationDate="2012-04-11T11:35:46.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirt is a killer of shocks.  Dirt on the cylinder ends up scoring the cylinders and getting into the seals, causing the effectiveness of the seal to drop.  Then you get leaking and eventual failure.  Keep the moving portions as clean as possible.  On our airplanes (which don't have any dust boots), we clean the struts with hydraulic fluid and a cotton cloth periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T11:35:46.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3277" CreationDate="2012-04-11T12:41:33.127" Score="4" ViewCount="9550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra, which ordinarily comes with P195/60R15 87H tires. What are the pros and cons of changing these tires to a set of P185/65R15 86T? Some sites say they're compatible, but not all do, and while I understand the benefits of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/846/what-are-the-benefits-of-low-profile-tires&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; profile&lt;/a&gt; tires, there's not much talk on higher profile ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1702" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T01:05:42.580" Title="Pros/cons of higher profile tires?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3276" CreationDate="2012-04-11T13:59:16.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caveat: all of the following information is heavily dependent on the tire construction, tread pattern, application, etc.  If you care more about a particular application, you should research that specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher profile tire will potentially affect the following factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comfort: increased - you've increased the vertical air space in the tire, allowing the tire to adapt to small bumps pneumatically before they hit the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Handling: decreased - a taller, less stiff sidewall will generally reduce turn-in ability and responsiveness (i.e., in back-to-back comparison, you'll notice a distinct lag between turning the wheel and seeing the car turn).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deep snow performance: increased - a tall thin tire is better able to dig down into a deep pile of snow than a wider shorter tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speedometer reading: different - the rolling circumference between the two tires will almost certainly be different.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding that last point: there are plenty of rolling circumference calculators on the web.  I plugged your numbers into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro_website/TechnicalPages/TRC%20calculator.htm&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and it thinks that the difference at the highest level would be 20 millimeters of circumference.  The calculator estimates that there would be a difference of about 1 kph (i.e., too small for most people to observe on a standard speedometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, considering your specific example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/snow/WinterPackageMain.jsp?autoMake=Hyundai&amp;amp;autoModel=Elantra%20GLS%20Sedan&amp;amp;autoYear=2002&amp;amp;autoModClar=&quot;&gt;Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt; does list both of these sizes as valid choices for winter tires.  Its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SelectTireSize.jsp?autoMake=Hyundai&amp;amp;autoModel=Elantra%20GLS%20Sedan&amp;amp;autoYear=2002&amp;amp;autoModClar=&quot;&gt;default search&lt;/a&gt; does not show that size but that may be more of an assessment of their customer base than a judgment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using all of the above, if this was my vehicle where I live (i.e., I buy all-weather tires since deep snow is rare), I would not go with a taller tire.  There are plenty of tire vendors, brands and applications available for me to select a stock size tire without sacrificing our mutual criteria (comfort for her and handling for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T13:59:16.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T16:06:28.317" Score="1" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the wiper motor and the wiper motor control? Does the wiper motor control work the relay switch, in other words if your wipers wont shut off is that a wiper motor control problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1703" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T15:44:21.340" Title="What is the difference between the wiper motor and the wiper motor control? Caddilac CTS 2006" Tags="|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3270" CreationDate="2012-04-12T01:58:02.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect something is wrong with your AC system if the compressor is not running at idle, assuming you're idling at the correct RPM.  Maybe a bad RPM sensor on the compressor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing your engine idle is going to require editing your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powertrain_control_module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PCM&lt;/a&gt;.  If you're not idling in the correct range, check your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idle_air_control_actuator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IAC&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T01:58:02.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3267" CreationDate="2012-04-12T01:59:54.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find what you're looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/forumdisplay.php/146-Aircooled-Classic-Beetle-Technical-Forum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/beetle_productionfigures.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; indicates total 1976 production was 383,277.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T01:59:54.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2012-04-12T02:17:16.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have the problem described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-first-generation-forum-2003/195546-wiper-motor-has-own-mind-2004-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Indications are replacing the motor is a fix.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-first-generation-forum-2003/149036-wipers-will-not-turn-off.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; indicates there is some sort of module on the back of the motor, that might be what is actually broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how this works, I'd have to see a wiring diagram.  Power to the wiper motor is going to be going through a relay, but as far as what can cause that relay to engage, you'd need a diagram or trace the wiring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T02:17:16.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3288" CreationDate="2012-04-12T02:54:44.023" Score="13" ViewCount="67157" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the obsessive compulsive department:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been changing my own oil by driving up on a pair of ramps, draining and filling.  Based on a slight overfill condition after adding the specified amount of oil and returning the vehicle to level, I know I'm not getting all the old oil out.  This makes sense, since the drain plug is towards the front of the oil pan.  Oil must be pooling at the back of the pan due to the angle from the ramps.  It can't be more than a couple or three ounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about the slight excess.  Shaving a couple ounces off the amount added next time will put it spot on.  I don't like the idea of leaving a measurable amount of dirty oil if I can avoid it, especially on the one vehicle that only gets out of the garage a few months a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I can try and get another pair of ramps under the rear wheels if they'll fit.  Jacking up the rear to level the vehicle would work, too, I guess.  Any other ideas?  Am am I the only nut that worries about a couple ounces of dirty oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T03:00:55.233" LastActivityDate="2023-07-28T19:42:57.393" Title="Oil change with front wheels on ramps?" Tags="|oil-change|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3298" CreationDate="2012-04-12T02:59:42.990" Score="5" ViewCount="2586" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to work on the rear end of a rear wheel drive vehicle with the wheels off, where do you put the jack stands?  On a body-on-frame vehicle, is the frame preferable to the axles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owners manual and factory service manual list the appropriate lift positions, but don't mention where it's safe / not safe to position jack stands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T10:22:18.053" Title="Jack stand positioning for rear wheel drive vehicles?" Tags="|jack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1079" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:09:58.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your owners manual will tell you if synthetic oil or a synthetic blend is required.  You can use it even if it's not, but you may be wasting your money.  If you've got an oil cooler, it's probably overkill.  Well, except if the vehicle sits in a garage during the winter.  I use a full synthetic in my garage queen even though it has an oil cooler, the theory being that the synthetic is less likely to cause problems due to moisture contamination while sitting.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:09:58.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2012-04-12T04:34:53.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Premium will last longer sitting in a tank.  Chevrolet recommends premium for the Volt for this very reason.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gm-volt.com/2010/07/30/why-the-volt-requires-premium-gasoline/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to&lt;/a&gt; Volt Vehicle Line Director Tony Posawatz (as quoted by gm-volt.com):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If people are not using the extended range capability a lot, the&#xA;  premium fuel does last a little longer,” he said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T20:52:40.790" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T20:52:40.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="509" CreationDate="2012-04-12T04:49:21.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, modern cars have anti-siphoning provisions.  Here's an alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the fuel pump fuse while the engine is running and let it die.  That will suck the fuel out of the lines.  Disconnect the line after the fuel filter and aim it at a container.  Locate the fuel pump test lead up in the engine bay and jump the pins together to run the fuel pump and pump the gas out.  Have somebody watching the container so you don't overfill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T15:12:51.427" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T15:12:51.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2012-04-12T04:58:58.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mix it with fresh gas and burn it in a lawn mower.  If it's straight gas, mix it with fresh and burn in a beater vehicle.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T04:58:58.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2012-04-12T05:20:09.830" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For OCD you can place a flat pan below the oil drain and lower the front wheels to get the remaining oil out, then jack it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I would not worry about couple of ounces in your place. Even if your car is level old oil will still remain in the engine (other cavities, thin film, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example in my engine that takes 4L of fresh oil, 2 ounces is less than 1.5% of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you need to flush the old oil completely (e.g. after filling with wrong type of oil) you could use a oil flush mixture (drain old, refill with flusher, idle 5-10 min, drain, fill new oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:20:09.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2012-04-12T05:29:41.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where the owner's manual / factory service manual say the lift points are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:29:41.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2012-04-12T05:40:54.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idle_air_control_actuator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IAC&lt;/a&gt;, if it's fuel injected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:40:54.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2888" CreationDate="2012-04-12T05:46:50.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bird droppings will etch your clear coat.  Once they've hit the clock is running.  Layers of wax will buy you time, but not all day.  Assuming paying someone to hover over your car is not an option, it's probably time to invest in a car cover.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T05:46:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:01:23.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A VIN derivative on a bumper? Really? I find that hard to believe. Even if it's true, no offense, but really, who is going to check for matching numbers on a Ford Focus? Even if they did, they're going to check the engine and transmission, not the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bumper&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. What they are going to check is the CarFax that is going to show the accident, at that point whether you've got a VIN derivative on the replacement bumper is not going to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting plastic parts in the field tends not to end well, a new one painted at the factory is ideal.  Though I suppose a fresh unpainted bumper will turn out better than one that has been stripped and repainted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T06:01:23.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:07:00.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have the oil changed at a dealer since they would grease the front end while they were at it, but my rides have old-fashioned steering gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T06:07:00.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3321" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:16:30.560" Score="2" ViewCount="133220" Body="&lt;p&gt;After being on holiday for a few weeks, I come home and find that the car brake pedal on my (automatic tranmission with ABS brakes) car will no longer spring back up after depressing it.  After doing a lot of reading, the problem would appear to be either with the brake booster or the master cylinder.  Unfortunately, I can't really tell what might be the issue since I can't find any information that seems to match my specific conditions. There does not appear to be a return spring on the pedal that is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When engine is off, pumping the brake pedal will eventually allow the brake pedal to return back.  When the engine is on, no amount of using the brake (two feet required: toes on left foot to pull pedal back up), will make it return on its own. I have verified that the brakes still have excellent holding power. When the car is on and in drive or reverse, the brake still engages. I have not tried driving with it because I live in a high density urban setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above, I think the problem is somewhere in the brake booster or the booster hose. I'd like to diagnose it, but am not sure how. Pressing down on the brake is easy and doesnt feel any harder or softer than it used to be. However, starting the car with my foot on the brake pedal does not &quot;pull&quot; the brake pedal down an extra few inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I remove the booster hose from the engine side and blow or suck to test for a seal problem?&lt;/strong&gt; I should only be able to suck air. If I can blow air, I know there is a seal problem. The brake booster hose is not a closed system, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a return spring in the brake booster that could have failed? Is it possible to diagnose this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T15:38:34.967" Title="Brake pedal will not return after being depressed: brake booster diagnosis?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:49:16.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a pump to remove the oil, and skip the ramps -- unless needed for the filter. I can not imagine it makes any difference-- some oil is left no matter how well you drain. Use better oil or change more often are other answers. &#xA;The oil gets dirty immediately anyway so I wouldn't want to do anything that could be unsafe like raising all 4 wheels -- just buy a good jack and stands and lower the car to the ground or go with the pump if it bothers you. I'd forget the &quot;problem&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1705" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T06:49:16.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3256" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:56:27.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try breaking in the new pad and rotor combination with several hard stops from 50-60 mph. Or better yet go back to the shop and ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1705" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T06:56:27.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2012-04-12T07:00:53.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame, jack points, solid axle are probably all fine for stands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1705" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T07:00:53.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2012-04-12T10:22:18.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you are working on! If I were working on the axle, I'd put them under the chassis frame (or jacking points on a monocoque vehicle), but if I was working on the shell, brakes, diff etc I usually put them under the axle tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally either use specific jacking points, or try to position the stands as close as possible to the suspension mounting points - these, by definition, must be string enough to support the weight of the vehicle. The most important thing is to make sure the stands are secure and level, and that the weight is evenly spread over the pair, and over each leg of each stand, so there is no chance of the car shifting or moving on them - make sure to securely chock the front wheels as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T10:22:18.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2012-04-12T10:31:43.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would first check the hose - it is rubber, and they do perish from the inside out. Disconnect it from the servo end, and see if you get good suction on it with the engine running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, visually check all the flexi hoses in the braking system for signs of bulging or wear - if any show such signs, replace them all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The return spring is generally in the back of the master cylinder. If the M/C is working correctly, the brakes should, with the engine off, behave correctly, but be harder to push. If they don't, replace that first. Have you seen any signs of fluid loss? In particular, is the level dropping with no obvious leaks? Master Cylinders can leak into the servo, with the fluid then attacking the diaphragm inside...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T10:31:43.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2012-04-12T11:57:10.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd give it the 93.  It's not pretty when a turbo engine starts knocking.  You've almost certainly got a knock sensor to detect that and retard timing (reducing power and increasing fuel consumption) to help protect you.  However, it's not wise to rely on that.  It's a safety device in case you get bad fuel.  Continual knocking will eventually kill the sensor.  Once the sensor's dead, your car will happily give you full timing advance even on too low an octane.  Do that a couple times at full boost and you'll have a very good chance on having to do an engine replacement/rebuild...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T11:57:10.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2012-04-12T12:06:41.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantage being that if they spot a problem while doing the oil change that they are a LOT more likely to have appropriate parts on hand.  A non-dealer shop would have to source the parts, adding more time to the job (and possibly even another trip to the shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T12:06:41.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3248" CreationDate="2012-04-12T22:37:55.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally found out how to reset the service reminder manually. It was easier than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here it comes in steps:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put in key   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn key to position 2 &lt;em&gt;(this might be tricky, there&#xA;are 3 positions, but its actually just before the engine starts, all&#xA;electronics are on, lights flashing on &quot;dashboard&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use buttons on steering wheel to navigate to &quot;Service Reminder&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press and hold the R button for 2-3 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Confirm by pressing R again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T22:37:55.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3329" CreationDate="2012-04-12T22:43:48.970" Score="-1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am developing system and I have this converter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=58170&amp;amp;ppid=1122&amp;amp;image=337921739&amp;amp;images=413553759,413553764,413553772,337921715,337921726,337921739,337921748&amp;amp;formats=0,0,0,0,0,0,0&amp;amp;format=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I need to connect this to car electronic. Where is the best spot to connect this?&#xA;Can you post a picture to show me the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T06:04:09.690" Title="Car electronics" Tags="|engine|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-01-15T15:24:58.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3313" CreationDate="2012-04-13T04:14:16.823" Score="2" ViewCount="4771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiance has a 1999 VW Beetle. Was told two months ago that it was leaking water from a cracked water pump (mechanic). She never got it fixed. About a week ago the car began making a loud noise. She pulled over. Water basically all leaked out, right there. She started it up (with the noise) and drove it about 3 blocks to see if she could get it home. She didn't, parked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it to a mechanic (same one) and he said a head gasket had blown, something else was warped (will specify what when I have more information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the likelihood of this being true? I'm a little surprised that the engine overheated enough after the immediate death of the water pump to cause this in three blocks driving distance. I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is also that the sound was present during the 3 block drive. I have a suspicion the sound is actually the water pump. Perhaps it suffered some damage, such as a bearing or something, and is cranking around to make the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three questions then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Does this story make sense?&#xA;b) What would I expect to pay to have this repaired?&#xA;c) What is the difficulty level of repairing it myself? The price quoted by the mechanic would be over the worth. He's offered to buy it for $200. This seems like it might be worth my time to figure out how to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1710" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T14:04:58.997" Title="1999 VW Beetle head gasket repair or?" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2012-04-13T07:58:47.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be fatal to your engine block, sure - without coolant, various bits can fail rapidly, including the gaskets, and if the head gasket blows, the engine can destroy itself pretty quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said though, there are a number of things which could cause clunking that would be less serious than this, so if you are unsure, the best bet is to get a second opinion from a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T07:58:47.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-13T17:02:37.530" Score="2" ViewCount="3771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Toyota Avalon.  Overall the car is in excellent shape, no major issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have noticed the brake pedal requiring increasing pressure, but only when moving (which is obviously when I am using the brakes!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I come to a stop, the pedal immediately &quot;softens&quot; and feels less stiff.  For instance, if I am going down a hill, I need to apply decent pressure to come to a stop at an intersection at the bottom.  As soon as I reach the bottom of the hill, my foot will sink an inch or two down with the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stopping distance and such are normal.  I do have a little vibration when braking so I know I need to get the rotors machined or replaced, but is this pedal issue related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:55:19.440" Title="What can cause a stiff brake pedal that softens when stopped?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3309" CreationDate="2012-04-13T17:14:34.457" Score="14" ViewCount="321361" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car had been sitting for a while without being driven.  The battery now has a weak charge but it can get the engine started (barely).  I would like to charge the battery by running the engine, but because my brakes are currently not working, I cannot take it for a drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the battery is still viable, while in neutral, what RPM and for how long should I run the engine to top up the battery?  Does the RPM and duration depend on the battery type (amps, for example) or the type of vehicle? This is an automatic transmission car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T04:16:58.923" Title="RPM and duration to recharge a battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2012-04-13T17:35:45.670" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an alternate suggestion: purchase, borrow or rent a battery charger.  I bought mine for about $20 US and it will easily charge a nearly dead battery up to an acceptable level in about an hour (going from memory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do the math, the car is a terribly inefficient battery charging system.  It's pretty good in terms of transportation but that's a lot of overhead just to run an alternator in your driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T17:35:45.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2012-04-14T00:01:32.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few variable involved.Namely the size of the battery and its general health. and to what extent you want it charged.Do you want it charged 100% or enough to start it the next time.The charging capacity of the alternator and the quality of the connections.The engine RPM won't really matter as anything from just above idle will have the alternator at full output.You also have to consider the power the engine is using to keep itself running,fuel pumps,computer,electric cooling fans are all consuming power while running the engine.Another consideration is that this is making the alternator work beyond what it is made to do and you are going to shorten the batteries life by fast charging it.If you had a 100 amp alternator and and a 500 amp battery that was dead it could take 5 hours under ideal conditions.But you don't have ideal conditions,you are taking some of the power away to run the engine along with the losses at connections etc.As an estimate I would guess that an hour should charge it enough to start it the next time as long as the engine can start without extended cranking time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T00:01:32.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2012-04-14T01:18:46.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; does a great job in breaking down a basic charging system, as described below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current Demand and Flow:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the car would not be considered a great tool to charge the battery, as it would take forever... Depending on what the battery is demanding. RPM and loads are irrrelevant, as teh alternator will make do as needed as long as it is not overloaded. The reason a battery charger works best, as Bob described, is because it forces a set amount of current through the battery. This allows for faster, and better charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T01:18:46.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2012-04-14T02:23:36.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible you have a vacum issue that is effecting the brake booster.Check the hose between the booster and the engine for cracks.There is also a check valve mounted in the hose.Do you detect an engine vibration or noise if you pump the brake pedal several times while stopped and in park?With the engine off depress the brake pedal several times until it gets firm.With your foot still on the brake start the engine,does the pedal depress a little more before stopping?If not the problem may be in the booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T02:23:36.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2012-04-14T14:04:58.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern cooling systems don't tend to hold a lot of coolant. A quick Google suggests that the system on your fiance's car holds around 5L, so attempting to drive it a fairly massive coolant leak is not what I'd call a good plan. The water pump is circulating the coolant surprisingly quickly and if it's got a good size leak that means it'll circulate it out of the system fairly quickly, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water pumps tend to make an interesting noise when the bearing goes and the racket doesn't stop when there is no more coolant left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance that it overheated enough to blow the head gasket and the warped part is most likely a warped cylinder head. It might or might not be warped, but the only way to find out is to measure the head once you've taken it off to replace the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what else was damaged by the overheating, the most cost effective way might be to source a good used engine and drop that in instead of attempting to repair the engine. It's a tough call to make with what little information you have, though, but if the head (and worst case the block also) is warped, either sourcing a replacement head or getting the existing one machined is going to be fairly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T14:04:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2012-04-14T19:19:25.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safe the airbags - Pulling the battery is one way.  You could also pull fuse #36.  It's in the fuse box in the passenger compartment on the driver's side under the dash.  It should be a 10 amp red fuse in the bottom row, 3rd from the right.  Either way, you need to wait for the air bag capacitor to discharge after power is disconnected (the capacitor allows the airbag to deploy in an accident even if the battery cables are ripped free).  I haven't been able to find an exact wait time.  Disconnecting the battery is probably the safer approach, but it makes step 2 harder.  Use this information at your own risk.  Be very careful as an airbag deployment will kill you.  The truly cautious will look for a wiring connector under the dash to disconnect, but I don't know exactly where it would be or what it would look like (though one end of the wiring should be going up into the steering column).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotate the steering wheel to the left and right to expose the screws at the back.  There are three holes on each side, you're after the middle one.  This is easier to do if the engine is running and you have power steering.  Use a T27 (Torx) bit to tighten them.  A screwdriver with a T27 bit is probably best, but watch the length, there is only so much room between the wheel and the instrument cluster.  It's tricky to get the angles right and get the bit in the screw.  Lowering the wheel helps (release lever is on the left side of the column near the dash).    &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-enable the airbags by reversing whatever you did to disable them.  Verify that the airbag light does not come on solid or blink.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T18:58:01.717" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T18:58:01.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2012-04-14T21:26:35.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problems and a forum somewhere told me that there was a Mazda 626 directive telling a Mass Airflow sensor going bad after a certain mileage.  This islocated in the airflow tube coming from the airfilter. I pulled the 3 prong connector and the rough idling stops but it now runs on a higher idle . When I took the sensor out I broke the wafer thin sensor while cleaning with alcohol and Qtip The thing is very delicate. So don't do like me. I put a drop of crazy glue on the bottom and see is this will hold it and solved it. If not need to replace it. The darn thing is more expensive than a Kindle Color which has a more complicated electronics than this sensor. Parts store is selling for $260. Online is $100 cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1716" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T21:26:35.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3342" CreationDate="2012-04-15T19:00:20.260" Score="2" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car radio is having trouble reading CDs; I need a new one. Will pretty much any interchangeable radio fit in any car that has an interchangeable-style radio port? Or does it vary from car to car and I have to find one that's made specifically for Subaru Legacies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T01:13:55.013" Title="Are radios model-specific?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2012-04-15T21:40:52.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get specific Subaru radios, which are the simplest to fit, however I have always used aftermarket stereos in my Subarus, and the only work you need to do is tweak the wiring harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires you get are generally the same for most cars (if we exclude specific models which display engine, mileage and other data through the stereo front panel) but the plugs may be in a different position or order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So an aftermarket stereo usually comes with its own harness and you may want to buy an adapter (from Halfords, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MMlM5wZ9mLi/g_103000/Vehicle-specific-Wiring-Harnesses.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crutchfield&lt;/a&gt; or similar) to hook it up to your car harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a matter of a few minutes if you know what you are doing, or a few hours plus disassembling the dashboard to get at all the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T10:02:32.110" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T10:02:32.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:52:43.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are out there: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/317970419/7_split_Screen_Reversing_monitor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/317970419/7_split_Screen_Reversing_monitor.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;google search car camera split screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you need to watch where you are going via a camera and video? Ducking from bullets yet continuing to drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1719" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:52:43.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2012-04-16T20:02:16.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0421&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many miles? If over 100K or close to that, your catalytic converters could be bad. when they go bad, they can block your exhaust flow which will effect power performance and fuel efficiancy. cats work by a material that glows red hot when running. unburnt fuel is flashed off when going through them and does not get to atmosphere. the material that is the catalytic material will start breaking down, melting and clogging up the flow. get them replaced. look forward to another $1K++ bill. the cats themselves are $200 to $400. You may have two of them in your system. then you have labor for tearing your exhaust system apart and putting it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1719" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T20:02:16.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3801" CreationDate="2012-04-16T21:28:07.853" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 1998 Ford Contour with a right rear turn signal that is acting up.  The indicator on the dash and the right front turn signal are quick flashing while the right rear signal/bulb is on solid.  It worked for a while after changing the bulb, then it was on solid again.  While removing the socket and bulb from the housing for further examination, it started blinking.  Manipulating the wires with the socket back in the housing failed to trigger the solid on behavior, but closing the trunk lid did.  Cleaning the contacts in the socket and adding bulb grease seemed to help for a while, but it was soon back to being on solid when it should be blinking.  The socket is discolored, apparently from overheating at some point in the past.  Probing the wires with a multimeter is going to be tricky, since it starts working as soon as I touch it.            &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T14:32:07.717" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T15:55:26.740" Title="Flaky turn signal" Tags="|electrical|ford|turn-signal|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:40:51.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So as it turns out, my car -- a Saab 900NG -- did not appear to have a return spring built into the brake booster.  There doesn't seem to have been any evidence of it though there does appear to be a small auxiliary spring built in to help &lt;em&gt;apply&lt;/em&gt; the brakes (not disengage them).  The shop merely added a return spring and everything seems fine.  The brakes are not tough, the fluid is fine, the master cylinder was in excellent condition, the booster diaphragm was in one piece, and the hoses were all sound.  The brake lines were also in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chalk it up to another Saab-related mystery.  I've had a few of those lately and it makes me want to never have another Saab ever again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It would appear that there may be a return spring on the pedal itself rather than the brake booster.  I am continuing to investigate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastEditorUserId="1704" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T22:55:48.647" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T22:55:48.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="841" CreationDate="2012-04-17T00:47:04.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1005_ford_mustang_instrument_panel_troubleshooting/photo_16.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mustangmonthly.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mustang Monthly&lt;/a&gt;.  The description in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_1005_ford_mustang_instrument_panel_troubleshooting/viewall.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; that is from says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In '65, Mustangs had an induction-style ammeter with no connections,&#xA;  only an induction loop (also called a magnetic loop) on the back of&#xA;  the ammeter that picks up current flow (magnetic field) through the&#xA;  main power lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all sounds fine and dandy unless you don't know how that black/yellow wire is supposed to be connected.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/548651-66-cluster-65-still-confused.html#post3448294&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; hints at it.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/593964-another-wiring-question-our-65-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More&lt;/a&gt; info.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what state your cluster wiring harness is in, hope this gets you going.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T00:47:04.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2802" CreationDate="2012-04-17T01:24:54.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say check at a dealership parts counter, except that Saturn dealers don't exist anymore.  I thought I heard something about Saturn having their own parts system separate from what all the other GM divisions used, but I can't find anything to confirm/deny that at the moment.  You could try the parts counter at a Cadillac/Chevy/Buick/GMC dealer.  Taking some donuts wouldn't hurt.  If you're lucky they can ID the part and possibly even order it if there are any to be had.  If nothing else, maybe they can get you a part number you can use to find what you need from a vendor of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_old_stock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NOS&lt;/a&gt; parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T01:24:54.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2326" CreationDate="2012-04-17T04:59:08.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the clutch line at the quick disconnect (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).  If it has come loose that would explain not being able to depress the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T04:59:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2012-04-17T07:15:39.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get more oil out of the bottom if you take pan off once it's empty. The difficulty of doing this will vary by car, of course. Just be careful if the oil is hot. And you will probably need a new gasket for when you put it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T07:15:39.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-17T08:59:18.760" Score="0" ViewCount="6284" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a kind of a rough idle and it's like it gives a bit of gas, meter goes between 1000 and 2000 rpm at standstill. Same if I shift up to 1 or 2nd gear. If I then take it for a drive, car jerks and jumps as rpm meter goes up and down at low speeds in 1st and 2nd gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's not like the car dies or anything, it just runs jerky and jumps as rpm meter goes up and down for a few meters, then it smoothens out as I drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I give a bit of gas and rev up the engine, or drive for 5 minutes, it runs as it should. Or if I just sit idle and wait as rpm meter goes up and down for a few seconds it also smoothens out and seems to be OK. What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem seems to be most noticeable in the morning at first start. If I take it for a drive, park it and then drive again later that same day, it's not as noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did a diagnostic test a week ago where it said that the MAF-meter needed to be replaced. So we did install a brand new but problem is still the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="1643" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T07:43:08.127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T13:27:16.607" Title="Why does RPM jump between 1000 and 2000 at standstill (2002 Mercedes-Benz CLK 200 K)?" Tags="|maintenance|mercedes-benz|rough-idle|maf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2905" CreationDate="2012-04-17T09:07:50.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keys don't necessarily need a rubber head to be 'smart keys', some embed a small resistor inside of them that isn't very noticeable. The fact that the cylinder turns at all means the grooves aren't too worn, etc. It either matches the lock wafers or it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look online for a programming method for new keys. It's likely that the battery went dead or otherwise lost its key programming. Usually the instructions will be something like putting the good key to ON (but not starting it) and back to OFF 5x, then putting the new key in and starting it (last time I did this was for a remote starter in a Mercury Sable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T09:07:50.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3116" CreationDate="2012-04-17T09:12:27.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Ford Probe with a 2.2L Mazda engine with nearly the same issue. I did everything you said, multiple spark plug changes, fuel cleaners, sea foam, etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was the spark plug wires. They looked perfectly fine, but when I replaced them as a last resort the whole issue cleared right up. I later noted a small crack in one where the wire was only intermittently making contact. If you haven't got it fixed yet, try replacing your plug wires (and cap &amp;amp; rotor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T09:12:27.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3303" CreationDate="2012-04-17T09:26:21.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like this is a Automotive 12.5-4.4V adapter to a PC Regulated 12.0V/5.0V ATX adapter for a motherboard (hence the chokes) with a small LED output. The first thing you need to figure out is the wiring input: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red&lt;/strong&gt; = +12V?, Ignition/On?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; = Ground?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White&lt;/strong&gt; = +12V? Ignition/On?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+12V Constant&lt;/strong&gt; - The power requirement isn't too great (fused at 10A) so I'd target a large diameter +12V constant. If it were me, I'd run my own through the firewall from the battery with a 20A fuse at the battery for it, but you'd probably be just fine with the Yellow / +12V constant behind the radio or at the ignition switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition/On&lt;/strong&gt; - The trigger wire is going to switch it on/off, so I myself would put it on a switch I put somewhere, an On/Off/On switch with +12V constant on one side and +12V ignition on at the other. This way I could manually switch it on, off, or on when the key is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ground&lt;/strong&gt; - Run it back to the negative battery terminal if you're a wiring nazi like me, or just crimp a ring terminal on it and screw it into some dash metal with a lock washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T06:04:09.690" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T06:04:09.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3430" CreationDate="2012-04-17T09:27:03.147" Score="16" ViewCount="24368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll flesh my personal bias at the outset - being a heavy diesel mechanic for a time, and mechanically inclined my entire life, I use Anti-Seize wherever I can. If it has threads and it's not part of a rotational mass like a driveshaft, clutch, or hub, I use it. It's served me very well over the years. Specifically, I usually skip the copper and use the slightly more expensive nickel anti-seize to avoid reactions with certain metals and increased temperature limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've heard an (as of yet unsubstantiated) claim that Anti-Seize is an abrasive because of the metal content on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9015/oil-anti-seize-on-outside-of-nipple-when-building-a-wheel/9017&quot;&gt;this bicycles.SE question&lt;/a&gt; and then after searching &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&amp;amp;f=7&amp;amp;t=470120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If this has any merit, it changes my understanding of the substance in a fundamental way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there IS good reason to think of it as a lubricant, starting with the title, 'Anti Seize &lt;strong&gt;Lubricant&lt;/strong&gt;', one of the primary ingredients being grease and graphite (graphite being a solid lubricant that shears easily), &lt;a href=&quot;http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/NICASL-EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the datasheet&lt;/a&gt;, which describes it as such. It does warn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAUTION&lt;/strong&gt;:  LOCTITE Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant is not a high-speed load carrying lubricant and should not be used on ball or roller bearings, or on parts where lubrication is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me yes, it's a lubricant, but not for specific lubrication issues. The only thing I can find to substantiate the abrasive claim is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiseize.com/ecatpgs/ecatpg05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this datasheet&lt;/a&gt; under the &lt;em&gt;Moly Plate&lt;/em&gt; section, where is states this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does not form a carbon abrasive after high-temp exposure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the case that the people who mention the abrasive qualities are those who have passed the heat rating of their anti-seize? This is a possiblity, since most people use the copper type which is only rated for 550&amp;deg;F, where I consistently use the nickel type rated for 2,400&amp;deg;F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:41.910" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T22:51:05.560" Title="Is Anti-Seize a lubricant, abrasive, or both?" Tags="|maintenance|grease|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-17T14:05:45.997" Score="5" ViewCount="3441" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of an educational question, than a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most cars I have seen, the cruise control activation is in two steps, you usually have a separate switch to turn it on, and then you have the &quot;Set&quot; button to activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this that way? What is the purpose of being able to deactivate it in 2 ways as well - using the master switch/button, and a separate &quot;cancel&quot; one next to the set/restore buttons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on most vehicles if you power down the car, on next start the cruise control is deactivated, and you need to activate it again using 2 controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad for the engine/transmission if the cruise control is always on? I ask this, because thats how it is on most cars, but on my Honda Odyssey it does not turn of on engine restart. Its on when I start it again, if I left it on when I stopped the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T07:54:18.627" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T07:54:18.627" Title="Why are there multiple ways to deactivate cruise control?" Tags="|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2012-04-17T16:17:20.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;Safety.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is this that way? What is the purpose of being able to deactivate&#xA;  it in 2 ways as well - using the master switch/button, and a separate&#xA;  &quot;cancel&quot; one next to the set/restore buttons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're asking a control theory question that's easier to answer in pictures than in words.  However, SE isn't great for diagramming so I'll try to illustrate the state transitions in outline form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial state (e.g., immediately after turning on the car): Click the &quot;enable cruise control&quot; master switch to go to enabled state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruise control system enabled but not actively controlling speed: Click the &quot;set&quot; button to go to active state.  Click the master switch to return to initial state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruise control system actively controlling speed: Click the &quot;cancel&quot; button to go to ready state.  Click the master switch to return to initial state.  Step on brake or clutch to go to ready state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruise control ready (target speed set but not controlling): Click the &quot;reset&quot; button to return to active state (NOTE: acceleration will ensue).  Click the master switch to return to initial state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual state diagram isn't much more complicated than that.  That outline makes it pretty clear, though, that the system is designed to keep the cruise control system from affecting your speed until you tell it to at least two times.  It's also strongly biased to release control if the driver seems to be taking control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety aspects come into play in that ready state: that's the point at which the cruise control is prepared to (potentially dramatically) increase your speed.  You only want this to happen when you say so and you certainly want to be able to say &quot;whoa!&quot; immediately if that speed is too high for current conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding systems that can default to &quot;on&quot;: I know that some cars have a mechanical cruise switch that can stay on &quot;on&quot; after power down.  Personally, I regard that as a dangerous feature.  I like the default setting that cruise control will ignore all of my inputs until I specifically wake it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:17:20.153" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2012-04-17T18:00:28.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of being able to deactivate your cruise control in two different ways (note: there are at least 3 including brake/clutch pedal switches/neutral safety switch) is that the cruise control system has two distinct '&lt;strong&gt;deactivation states&lt;/strong&gt;':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;em&gt;System off and disabled&lt;/em&gt;, like the off switch on your computer. No accidental press of the set/resume buttons will interfere with your driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;em&gt;System off and ready&lt;/em&gt;, like the sleep mode of your computer. It's not currently active, but it's ready to accept commands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two off states are best modeled by separate buttons/switches, it would be confusing to people to have a 'two pushes for off, one push for cancel' single button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T18:00:28.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-17T19:18:45.423" Score="0" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Kia Sedona has a burnt electrical smell but the van is running fine right now although it did seem to be acting like it was loosing power but then was fine we are at a loss any ideas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T19:16:31.950" Title="2006 Kia sedona has a burnt electrical smell" Tags="|smell|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3334" CreationDate="2012-04-17T21:58:46.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your car has a burnt electrical smell and acts like losing its power, you can check its wiring system and the fuse for possible short circuits. It will be much better if a professional mechanic assists you in repairing your car. After all, the wiring systems of cars can be very intricate, and a single mistake can cause a myriad of problems right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1724" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T22:09:18.737" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T22:09:18.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3337" CreationDate="2012-04-17T22:44:28.713" Score="2" ViewCount="3858" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular type of Anti-Seize compound that is preferred for use on spark plugs?  What temperature rating is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T10:18:13.900" Title="What type of Anti-Seize compound should be used on spark plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2012-04-18T05:00:04.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people use Copper because it's the most common and cheapest, but beware the cheap/generic stuff that's only good to 600&amp;deg;F or so. I use the Nickel type, not so much for the temperature (2400&amp;deg;F), though that is a bonus, but because there are some metals that you can't use the copper on (Titanium might be one, I'm not 100% but Nickel is fine for it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as temperature rating needed, according to NGK, it will depend on the hot/cold value of the specific plug, but optimal range is 500°C (932°F) and 800°C (1472°F) for the part that extends into the cylinder. The threads are on the water cooled block, so I'd expect them to hover in the 300°F - 600°F range. You can probably get away with Copper, but I'd use Nickel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T05:00:04.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-18T15:07:02.010" Score="1" ViewCount="2676" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '90 E30 with the six cylinder M20 engine idles unevenly, especially when the engine is cold. A local mechanic said the mixture seems to be too fat but had no concrete solution saying I have to live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think a too fat mixture kills the catalytic converter over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the mixture being fat the only reason for an uneven idle? Couldn't it be a leak on the intake? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you diagnose such a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T22:38:23.220" Title="BMW E30 uneven idle especially when cold" Tags="|bmw|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2012-04-18T17:27:11.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons that a turbo setup with the equivalent effective compression is more forgiving of low octane gas than than a static compression setup is that you're not at that compression ratio all the time. Take that honda, for example. At 9:1 static ratio, you can run 87 octane all day as long as you don't push any boost at it. When you do start pushing some boost down its throat, the knock sensors will go off and the engine SHOULD respond in various ways - perhaps cutting fuel, spark, or retarding timing, which should force the boost down (not that I recommend it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the static compression case, even when you're just trying to idle or drive nicely, you're still going to be predetonating on lower-than-required octane gas. This would apply to clutchless superchargers as well, there's no &quot;off&quot; switch or &quot;I'm driving nicely&quot; benefit. You're locked into that higher compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, not to recommend the practice, I had a 270hp Ford Probe 2.2L turbo, and at full boost (~21psi) and 7.8:1 static compression ratio, I would never dare attempting to reach it on anything but 93 octane. However, sometimes on long trips I would fill up with 87 octane and set my boost controller at 7psi or lower, and not get any knock sensor activity logged. Even if I didn't lower the boost controller, you can just 'drive nice' if you want to risk it (but the temptation is rather strong). I was able to get 36MPG out of 87 octane when I was nice to it (quite economical). I compare that with my father's supercharged 427hp 4.6L V8 gets 12MPG when you're nice to it, 8MPG when you're not, and you don't have the option of anything but premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T17:27:11.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3341" CreationDate="2012-04-18T19:59:38.103" Score="2" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a car with 135k miles on it and I have no idea when the brakes were last replaced. I've done work on my cars before but never have changed the brakes, so I'm not sure how to tell if the brakes or rotors need to be replaced. What are the indications that the brakes or rotors are bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a slightly different but somewhat related question: when I lightly used the brakes I hear a sort of &quot;click click click&quot; or &quot;clack clack clack&quot; noise that seems to come from the left front brake. It doesn't happen if I brake hard. What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T07:39:30.843" Title="How do I know if I need new brakes?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3340" CreationDate="2012-04-18T23:11:16.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you check for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake disk thickness. All disks have a minimum thickness and when they reach it they need to be changed. Normally the minimum thickness should be marked on the disk itself, but you should find it stated in the workshop manual for your car as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same for the brake pads, they should exceed a certain minimum thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also should check the condition of the friction surface and check that the whole pad sweep area is in good condition and not corroded. On some cars the calipers can corrode and you suddenly get the pad applied to only one side of the disk, for example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condition of the brake fluid. Normal fluid[1] should be roughly the color of cheap honey (light amber), if it's dark you want to change it. In fact, you should normally change it every two years anyway as it's hygroscopic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the brake hoses. Unless someone already fitted braided hoses, check that the rubber on the hoses isn't cracked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you haven't worked on brakes before it might be better to either have a pro work on them or get someone who knows what they're doing to help you. Brakes aren't really something you want to have fail on you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] There are a couple of exceptions like the ATE blue stuff but people who put that sort of fluid into their cars tend to remember when they worked on the brakes last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T23:11:16.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2012-04-19T01:13:55.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While certain cars have specific dash units that include things like heater controls and such (Ford Taurus ovals come to mind), by far the standard has been set to &lt;strong&gt;'Single DIN'&lt;/strong&gt; (a majority of cars/CD players) and &lt;strong&gt;'Dual DIN'&lt;/strong&gt; (the size of two normal rectangle sizes stacked on each other, almost squarish compared to the rectangle of a Single DIN).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doubledinreview.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/double-din-vs-single-din.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dual vs Single DIN http://www.doubledinreview.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/double-din-vs-single-din.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's at all avoidable, stay away from the 'fit-to-your-car' styles. When I buy a good deck, it follows me car to car. Also, since single DINs are manufactured in higher quantities, there are usually more choices and lower prices in the Single DIN selections. I see a few posts that hint to Subaru Legacies being able to be modified to accommodate a dual, which may be worth it if you really want GPS Navigation/a touchscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you select the deck, you can get a 'Subaru' harness that will plug into your wiring, or just cut the factory connector and splice the wires in yourself with the help of a wiring diagram. The connector method is nice because you can put your stock deck (or a cheap replacement) back in when/if you want to sell it but keep your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T01:13:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3320" CreationDate="2012-04-19T14:11:19.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A multimeter is going to be your best bet as, depending on exactly what the cause is, you may have one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a partial short circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a partial open circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a faulty relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to follow the wires to find the physical problem. The good news is that it is likely to be near the back, as closing the trunk must have jarred something together (or apart)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at the socket - discolouration can be a side effect of an intermittent connection causing heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T14:11:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2012-04-19T18:43:32.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Ford Escape 'eats' drivers side bulbs.  Turns out the connector to the bulb is making poor contact.  When the bulb 'burns out', odds are if I wiggle the connector, it starts working again.  That means its a bad connector.  Eventually, I'll replace it.  But I do recommend electrical contact lubricant to keep the next one from corroding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1728" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T18:43:32.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-20T04:43:09.707" Score="3" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's 2007 S40 has an accessory delay of 5 (secs).  The lights and indicators ultimately come on.  The car has no problem starting and runs nice.  The dealer says it needs a new ignition.  An independent shop believes it is the CEM.  Is there a relay specifically for the ignition?  Could the antenna ring not contacting correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the shop needed to download some software to the car but the computer wouldn't allow it because it stated that the key wasn't in the right position - but it was in position II.  Any help greatly appreciated...a new CEM is $800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T02:36:19.177" Title="2007 S40 - Accessory Delay (5 secs) when turning the Key to Position II" Tags="|electrical|volvo|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3340" CreationDate="2012-04-20T07:39:30.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this can be a bit of help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brake squeal that goes away when you apply the brakes and comes back&#xA;  when you release them is the wear indicators meaning that your brake&#xA;  pads need to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/475/1643&quot;&gt;Squeaky Brakes: How much of a concern are they? answered Mar 21 '11 at 3:03 by Larry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this video provides some good information on what to look for:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/video_5225926_car-brakes-need-replacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/video_5225926_car-brakes-need-replacing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T07:39:30.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3364" CreationDate="2012-04-20T16:12:14.703" Score="4" ViewCount="18548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I'm investing in time to replace valve cover gasket, should I have mechanic inspect/repair/replace anything else related to valve cover assembly/dis-assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is 1997 Toyota Sienna.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T07:54:19.173" Title="What else should I replace when replacing valve cover gasket?" Tags="|maintenance|toyota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-20T19:06:49.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1998 jeep cherokee 4x4 4.0L. I've tested the alternater, battery, starter, (they all tested good) and replaced the pick up coil, but the battery is still not charging. It's backfiring, the dash light goes haywire and the speedometer and rev counter lose their readings. I had to run a hot wire from alternater to battery using a toggle switch to be able to drive and keep charge. I have tried to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, but still have the same issues. It is also burning at least twice as much fuel since the electrical problems have occurred. any suggestions will be appeciated, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T08:55:19.310" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:33:30.117" Title="i have 1998 jeep cherokee 4x4 4.0 liter battery not charging" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-20T22:43:16.353" Score="1" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Buick Century with a 3.1L v6 engine. I was driving along one day and the car simply quit. After having the car towed to the local shop, they explained it could be a timing chain or the broken cam shaft. They were hesitant in spending time with the vehicle, nudging me towards scrapping the car. The vehicle has 98k miles on it with little rust. The car has been very reliable. How could a cam shaft break? Should I seek a second opinion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1732" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T02:01:31.470" Title="Buick Timing Chain or Cam Problem" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2012-04-21T01:10:38.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask them for an estimate for the timing chain only and the camshaft with a new chain and gears,it makes  sense to replace the chain and gears if doing the camshaft.Also ask the chance of more extensive damage to the pistons and valves from the timing being out of sync.If they can't answer any of your questions go to a different shop.If you are really happy with the car and the motor has really severe damage you could look at the option of replacing the motor.This is one of those cases where you will never get back the cost if something happened to total the car.However if the rest of the car is in good shape you probably can't replace it for the cost of the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-04-22T02:01:31.470" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T02:01:31.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3410" CreationDate="2012-04-21T22:12:13.753" Score="7" ViewCount="38399" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coat on my car is peeling away something like as shown in following picture which I just pulled up from google as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22Vnp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first car and I have never done any car work myself before, so please explain all the steps, where can I find the items etc. as if you are explaining a layman. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I would like to know how can I fix this on my car to make it look more better and uniform with my car color which is ebony black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Also, a slightly different but related question is how to repair small scratches on the car. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1637" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T23:20:50.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:20:50.920" Title="Cheap way to fix peeling clear coat?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3338" CreationDate="2012-04-21T22:38:23.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely a bad engine temperature sensor. (common problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is cold the computer uses a cold start fuel map. If the engine temperature sensor is bad the computer won't know the car is cold and will not activate the cold start fuel map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bavauto.com/8178/bmw-e30-e28-engine-temperature-sensor-m20-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blog.bavauto.com/8178/bmw-e30-e28-engine-temperature-sensor-m20-engine/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it's the sensor under the blue connector in this picture.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3308/3600906900_1b748f09da.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3308/3600906900_1b748f09da.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;...but I'm not 100% sure, I haven't worked on an M20 in quite a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T22:38:23.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-22T01:07:04.237" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;The backing light to the clock of my Nissan Pulsar ST1.8 has gone. I've checked the fuses and they all seem fine. How should I go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ll73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;With no flash you can&amp;#39;t see the clock in the bottom rhs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vefem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;With the flash you can clearly see the clock isn&amp;#39;t illuminated&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T19:45:58.783" Title="Backing light for clock gone" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2012-04-22T05:13:25.973" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual leak location protocol involves filling the system and trying to determine where it's coming out, either with an electronic detector wand or with a UV light (which requires putting dye in with the refrigerant).  You can get a can of refrigerant (R134a anyway, you need a license to buy R12) and a UV light at a parts store and look for the leak yourself.  I've done this to see what I'm in for in terms of a repair bill.  A leaking hose  in the engine bay might be an easy fix, but no sign of a leak under the hood can be a bad sign, it makes me wonder if the evaporator under the dash is leaking...lots of labor just getting to the part, there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before adding any R134a, make sure the system is actually low first (get a can with a gauge).  Note that the pressure reading is only accurate when the compressor is running.  If the compressor is fast cycling (switching on and off rapidly), the system is probably low, and the compressor is shutting off to protect itself.  It should start running longer if you add some R134a.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test for the presence of a leak without expending any R134a by sucking the system down to a vacuum.  That won't tell you were the leak is (unless it's huge and you can hear the air getting back into the system), but it will tell you if you have one, and it will also give you an idea of the size of the leak (by how fast the vacuum is lost).  Doing this yourself requires a vacuum pump, a shop should probably do this before adding refrigerant to a suspect system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T05:13:25.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3359" CreationDate="2012-04-23T11:43:50.583" Score="17" ViewCount="11753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that I'll soon be the owner of 2l turbo charged, 4wd hatchback that's been sat in a garage, undriven for over a decade. Trouble is that I won't be able to give it a full inspection until I actually own it (long story!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other questions I've read (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) It goes without saying that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery will almost certainly need replacing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whatever fluids left in in will need draining and their paths cleaning, fluid replacing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably need new tires and seals all round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably need new discs and pads all round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably need new belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but what other more serious mechanical problems would you expect to have arisen over this period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:32:50.703" Title="What happens to a car when it hasn't been driven for 12 years?" Tags="|turbocharger|4wd|restoration|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3357" CreationDate="2012-04-23T13:17:08.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need to check/replace for all rubber hoses (brakes, power steering, radiator, vacuum,...) as they could have dried and may break under load. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check wiring, they could have corroded or dried and can cause shortcut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease parts (Driveshaft, steering, ...).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a factory service manual for your specific vehicle and check the maintenance items, they should be needed after 12 years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:32:50.703" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:32:50.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3357" CreationDate="2012-04-23T15:18:49.630" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has already been noted, anything rubber will have perished and will need replacing, as will all the fluids and any other normal perishable items (brakes, battery, filters etc). The brakes will have siezed on, and depending how dry the garage was, the interior may have mould and the bodyshell may have gone rusty...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk, however, is that the engine may have siezed, depending on how it was treated before it was parked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach would be as follows (in no particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Un-sieze the rear brakes. a 3lb club hammer is useful here. Assuming it has drums on the back, free off the handbrake linkages and grease them. Replace the cylinders and pads and check the condition of the drums.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the front calipers, check the condition of the disks and replace if necessary. Either replace or re-seal the calipers depending on the condition of the bores. Fit new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace or re-seal the master cylinder (again depending on the bore condition). Check the servo (this is easiest done with the engine working). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace all the rubber hoses and carefully check all the solid lines. I'd use braided hoses on a car like that rather than standard rubber ones. Bleed the system completely with new fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace all 5. Don't be tempted to keep any that look OK, after that long they will be perished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of the CV joints. They ought to be OK, but you'll probably need to re-grease them and change the gaiters. Same for things like steering joints and track rods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empty the gearbox oil, flush and re-fill with the correct grade. The box should be OK, assuming it was fine when it was parked up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clutch is generally hard to check without removing the box. Once the engine is running, you should be able to tell if it is working... If it is hydraulic, you'll probably need to replace the seals as per the brakes. A cable clutch should be OK, but a few drops of oil run down the cable will help - disconnect the clutch end and hold it up, run oil down it then pump the pedal a few times to work the oil down the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain the oil and coolant, flush both through and re-fill with water and thin, cheap oil (which you'll replace as soon as it is working!). Remove the plugs and dribble a little oil or diesel into each cylinder, then wait a few days - hopefully the oil will vanish down the bores. Using a socket &amp;amp; bar on the crankshaft end bolt, carefully try to turn the engine. Once it turns freely by hand, connect up the new battery and try it on the starter. Once that turns freely, put new plugs in and try starting it (after sorting the fuel of course...).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run it up to temperature watching carefully for any fluid leaks. Check for signs of head gasket failure, water pump failure etc. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow it to cool and check the oil and water condition. Both will be filthy ;) If there are any signs of contamination in either, check why. Once you're happy, drain and flush both again (but refilling with proper coolant this time), then again after about 500 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any fuel left in it will be useless. Drain the system, replace the filters and any rubber hoses and refill. The injectors will need cleaning, and check none of the pipes have become gummed up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turbo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seals in the turbocharger will be perished. I'm no expert on turbos, but I presume it'll need dismantling and refurbishment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bodywork/Interior&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This entirely depends how well it has been stored. If you're lucky, all it'll need is a good clean. Otherwise it may need a lot of welding and/or replacement interior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most imporant question you need to ask - Why was it parked up in the first place? Chances are, something broke...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a car I'm in the middle of re-commissioning that has been parked up since 1992, so I've been through most of those already. Luckily my engine wasn't siezed and the interior is OK, but it needs a fair bit of welding...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T15:28:27.213" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T15:28:27.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3361" CreationDate="2012-04-23T17:42:12.013" Score="8" ViewCount="12682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently put new wheels on my car. I don't have off-street parking, much less a garage to work in, so I had the wheels installed by a mechanic. Since they were installed, they have been driven through about 100 miles, including an autocross event, so I think it's about time to check the lug nut torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refuse to take it to a mechanic just for this, so I'll do it myself. I've got a torque wrench and appropriate sockets, but I'm not sure whether the weight of the car affects the torque I'd see on the lugs. Do I need to lift the car up to take the weight off the wheels while I check the torque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T09:46:57.600" Title="Do I need to lift my car up before adjusting lug nut torque?" Tags="|wheels|torque|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2012-04-23T17:57:18.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, doing it with the wheels on the ground if fine, no need to lift the weight of the wheels. It's easier that way because the wheels can't turn while you are torquing the lugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T17:57:18.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2012-04-23T21:27:07.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clear coat is peeling and there is no cheap do at home product that will yield satisfactory results.The hood needs to be professionally refinished.The minor scratches may come out with a rubbing compound that is applied like regular paste wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T21:27:07.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3375" CreationDate="2012-04-23T21:31:57.123" Score="3" ViewCount="14437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started competing in autocross. Because of some after-market wheels/tires, which I bought before I started autocross, I can't compete in the Stock class. The class I'm in, Street Touring, mainly allows for suspension upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not ready yet to put thousands of dollars in to my car, but I would like to make whatever cheap and effective upgrades I can that will be legal in my class, and leave my car suitable as a daily driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic behind starting with wheels/tires is clear to me: the benefits of other modifications won't make much difference if your tires can't transmit the force to the road. For example, an extra 100hp from a supercharger won't help much if you're trying to channel it through crumby stock tires and narrow wheels. A decent set of wheels and tires is relatively cheap and will have a big impact on handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to suspension however, I'm not sure how to decide what to upgrade first. One thing I'm considering is a strut tower brace, since they only cost on the order of $100 and is easy to install myself. There are also kits that just upgrade springs, or just upgrade sway bars, just suspension bushings, or full suspension upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Will there be a benefit to a STB when I still have stock struts/springs/alignment? If not, what suspension component should I upgrade first? If I think that I might, in a year or two, want to install a full suspension kit, does it make sense to spend money right now on a just-springs upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it makes a difference, I'm driving a 2008 Mazda 3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:01:02.150" Title="In what order does it make sense to upgrade suspension components?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2012-04-23T22:48:16.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were recommended a valve cover gasket because it was leaking, just make sure that the fastener seals are also replaced. If not, they are guaranteed to go next. As far as any other components go, if they are attached to the valve cover in any way, you should likely consider replacing those seals as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T22:48:16.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2012-04-23T22:50:46.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider calling the local Nissan parts department, and see if this is even possible. I know some manufacturers don't support changing bulbs inside of the dash, but I could be wrong as far as nissan is concerned. If you do decide to go forth, and find a bulb, ensure to remove the battery cable before pulling the dash. Most cars have buses that run thorugh the dash, and you would hate to trigger a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T22:50:46.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-24T10:49:15.637" Score="1" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Skoda Felicia from 1998 has central locking (not remotely) which has problems. The doors can be unlocked through central locking from the front doors. However, the driver's side door only unlocks the  rear right door and the passenger's side door unlocks all but the rear left door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, schematically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                            Left Front   Right Front   Left rear   Right rear&#xA;Left front (un)locks  :         x                                      x&#xA;Right front (un)locks :         x             x                        x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be wrong with my central locking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1738" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T12:57:01.663" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T12:57:01.663" Title="What may be wrong with my central locking?" Tags="|electrical|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2012-04-24T12:05:02.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swaybars are the best bang for the buck.  That's always where I tell people to start.  Other than really flimsy cars (convertibles, original Neons, and anything similar) strut tower braces are only of a minimal help, and really only once you've got everything else done anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T12:05:02.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2012-04-24T12:24:21.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;Tire pressures will give the best bang for your buck.  Second best: stock wheels with good autocross tires.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two sentences are critical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have recently started competing in autocross. &#xA;  ...&#xA;  In case it makes a difference, I'm driving a 2008 Mazda 3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we're talking about truly novice (or early amateur) level competition, I would &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; advise that you leave your car alone.  At this point, you are still working out kinks in the critical control system (i.e., the driver).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here are some simple tips available on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123729230-MazdaSpeed-3-Autocross-Tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MazdaSpeed forum&lt;/a&gt; for introductory autocrossing.  You'll notice that they tend to focus on tips for the driver rather than changes to the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not change the car?  Because, as a novice racer, you're going to have enough trouble just racing without forcing you to also be a test driver for experimental equipment setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're ready to change the car, adjust your tire pressures before you make any parts changes.  One of the posters on that thread suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I ran about 42 front and dropped my rear to 30, the car has very good&#xA;  rotation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be surprised how much difference you can make with a few psi.  Experiment with different pressures, run laps, repeat until you have a setup that is optimal for your style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'd suggest you consider finding some stock wheels and putting some good autocross tires on them.  That would drop you back to Stock class and eliminate most of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: following up on the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will there be a benefit to a STB when I still have stock&#xA;  struts/springs/alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If not, what suspension component should I upgrade first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to start deciding on your priorities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your goals?  Are you trying to speed up the dynamic transitions in the suspension?  Are you trying to increase the rotation of the car in turns?  Increase oversteer?  Decrease understeer?  Where are you losing speed on the course?  What are your tire temperatures?  Are you hotter on the outer edges, inner, or middle of the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these questions could suggest a particular engineering plan.  Until you decide on exactly what you want to do, it's nearly impossible to give you advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I think that I might, in a year or two, want to install a full&#xA;  suspension kit, does it make sense to spend money right now on a&#xA;  just-springs upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  You should only make upgrades based on measured performance data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you are really committed to making changes, I would recommend that you solicit the advice of winning competitors in your class.  Who else is running the Mazda 3 at your events?  What parts are they using?  Why?  What changes did they have to make to their driving style to optimize their setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, absolutely most importantly, what did this all cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T22:07:30.137" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T22:07:30.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3367" CreationDate="2012-04-24T12:25:41.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely a dodgy connection on one or more wires. The wires to and from each lock have to go through the 'snake' connecting the door to the bodyshell, and this typically is the most likely place for failures to occur, particularly on the driver's door (the one opened and shut most frequently, twisting the wires more and thus fatigueing them more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design, you will probably have a multi-plug at one or both ends of the snake - you should be able to use a multimeter here to figure out if any of the wires have broken. Hopefully you'll then be able to replace the offending wire, or repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T12:25:41.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-24T18:33:54.103" Score="3" ViewCount="4513" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike doesn't want to turn over.  It ran just fine last week, but something has changed.  I have enough power with a new battery and I can hear the motorcycle trying to turn over.  The exhaust pipe puts out some exhaust, but the engine won't take over.  When this first happened, the bike ran for about 4 seconds and then it would die.  Now, it won't turn over at all.  I don't know what to diagnose as the problem.  Tips?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1742" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:35:23.657" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:35:23.657" Title="2003 Suzuki Katana 600 won't start" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|troubleshooting|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2012-04-24T18:51:59.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, your A/C system is sealed, and freon should never leak. We have a Jeep Grand Cherokee which had a leak in the evaporator, which is in the heater box, behind the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom that I saw was that I'd recharge the system with a can of R134A, and two days later, the system wouldn't blow cold anymore. Turns out evaporator leaks are VERY common in Jeep Grand Cherokee's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to disassemble the dash, remove the heater box, tear it apart, replace the evaporator, reassemble the box and reinstall it behind the dash, and put the dash back together before I could recharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recharging involves VACUUMING OUT the system (you attach a vaccum pump; you don't want ANY type of gas in there other than 134A), then allow the system to fill to the manufacturer's recommended pressures. I needed to go out to Harbor Freight and pick up an r134A guage set, and rented a vacuum pump from AutoZone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T18:51:59.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3405" CreationDate="2012-04-24T19:49:06.917" Score="0" ViewCount="1744" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timing belt tensioner on my early-2005 Golf 1.6l FSI (50k miles on the clock) &quot;sticks&quot; when the engine is started from cold, apparently the tensioner tightens the timing belt when you start the engine, and then pops back in, however mine's not popping back in quickly enough. As a result, it makes a nasty clicking sound as the engine turns for the first few revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's done it for a few years, on and off, depending on how recently the car's been started and the season, but has never got worse, per se. Lubricating it does alleviate the problem for a week or two but it soon comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repair cost is astronomical (since it involves removing the engine entirely, apparently). Is it worth it? The chap who serviced it last said it's not an issue unless it happens while the engine is running and has been for a while. Is this valid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="1735" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T10:42:07.083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T06:54:41.183" Title="Is it worth repairing/replacing a noisy timing belt tensioner on a MkV VW Golf?" Tags="|vw|timing-belt|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2012-04-24T20:05:47.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adjusting the nut behind the wheel, I would suggest the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swaybars - Keep the car from rolling as much in the corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment - Help keep the tires flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Springs &amp;amp; Shocks - help resist body roll and start to tune the transitional response of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment (again) - new ride height and roll will mean new alignment to get the best results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels &amp;amp; Tires - get better grip.  I usually go for partly used road race tires with too little tread for racing but plenty of tread for a season or two of AutoX.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment (again) - make sure you are getting the best out of the new tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strut Tower braces (ft &amp;amp; rear) - I put strut tower braces last because until you get better grip, you are probably not going to be getting enough traction to cause enough load to get the strut towers to deform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuning a car for handling is part science and part black art.  There are a lot of people who will tell you the setup that works the best for your car, but they often won't agree and won't be the best for how you drive your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have settled down on driving style, start making small adjustments to the car and see what works best for you.  Even after 20+ years of AutoX, I usually spend 1/2 each event getting to a consistent, fast as it will go time.  Then I start dialing in tire pressures and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="906" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T20:05:47.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3363" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:01:02.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strut tower braces made a world of difference in my 270hp FWD Ford Probe Turbo. This could be because of a weaker starting chassis strength perhaps, but I noticed the stiffness immediately and it gave me much more confidence in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After F&amp;amp;R strut braces, I did Eibach lowering springs and Tokiko HP Struts, and then rims with BFG KDW2 Summer Only tires, oversized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this may not be in the order of most effect first, it IS in the order of cheapest first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F&amp;amp;R Strut Tower Braces = $80 shipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eibach Lowering Springs = $220 shipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tokiko HP Struts = $250 shipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rims and Tires = $1200 shipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your stock swaybars are probably decent (unless you have a source for cheaper upgraded ones), just check your links to make sure they're in good shape (and attached).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I'd start addressing any lightening you can do. Can you live without A/C, Power Steering, Rear Seats, trunk insulation, spare tire and jack, etc., or does that bump you into the next class?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you could get an underdrive pulley for pretty cheap that will reduce the rotational rate of your alternator/whatever else you're driving with it, and be much lighter at the cost of some vibration on your accessories, should run you $80 or so. Replacing your stock seats for lightweight racing models can shave 50 lbs or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:01:02.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-25T13:53:53.870" Score="5" ViewCount="41041" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend is having a heck of a vexing time with navigating her options for getting the rear struts on her 99 camry replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major chain auto repair store quoted $580-$600 for the job.  Another chain (attached to a larger chain department store, ahem) quoted her $455.  Another, local, putatively trustworthy shop looked at it and at first thought it was only the bolt that needed replacing, which was a relief for her at the time -- she paid about $100 and drove off the same day, only to find that the symptoms came back.  Returned to the local shop and they found, indeed, that the rear struts needed replacing - which raises the secondary question of whether they should take some responsibility for not having properly diagnosed the problem in the first place, or at least credit her some portion of the $100 she already paid.  The local guys are also quoting her about $600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically wondering if these amounts sound reasonable (about $455 to $600); if anyone has ideas on how to get a better price on the job; and whether with a standard set of tools (the kind that a very casual handyman would have) and whatever else could be rented or borrowed, we could do this ourselves and for cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T14:07:09.457" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T08:14:14.520" Title="Cost of replacing struts on a 99 camry - and is it doable on our own?" Tags="|toyota|replace|struts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2012-04-25T14:46:21.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tools to do it yourself can all be rented.  The job can be difficult and even hazardous depending on the route you take to do it.  You can do full strut/spring changes by buying the &quot;quick change&quot; strut assemblies.  Or, you can disassemble the strut assembly to only replace the bad parts (commonly the strut and the bearing/top plates).  That requires more time, tools, and involves compressing a spring (which is dangerous, do something wrong in the process and you can launch a spring into a body part and cause severe injury/death.  Also consider how rusty the car is/is not and how accessible the top bolts and swaybar (if there is one) endlinks are.  Toyotas usually are OK, but some other makes (like GM) have small bolts that you can expect to snap off if they're rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T14:46:21.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2012-04-25T16:56:18.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the specific make and model of the vehicle, I won't be able to tell you exactly what color wire in the bundle is for the power wire. So you'll have to do some testing to figure it out. All you'll need is a Multimeter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rq0bD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be measuring between 11 and 18 volts DC, so start by setting the multimeter to the 20 volts DC setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwV1W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next disconnect the stereo to expose the vehicles wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fkhw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you'll have to locate the &quot;ground&quot; pin in the harness, or you could use almost any exposed metal in the vehicle (depending on make/model). The &quot;ground&quot; pin will usually be connected to a black wire, but this is not always the case. Once you've located a solid ground connection, connect the black probe from the multimeter to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the Red probe to test each pin in the harness, making sure to touch only one lead at a time. One of the pins in the harness should read between 11-18V, that's your power (always on) wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To locate the ignition wire follow the same steps as above, only this time have the vehicles ignition in the ON position. The ignition wire will be the pin that reads voltage only when the car is ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern after market car stereos use the same wire colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black = Ground (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow = Constant (+12V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red = Ignition (+12V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orange = Illumination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White = Left Front (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White/Black = Left Front (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grey = Right Front (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grey/Black = Right Front (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green = Left Rear (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green/Black = Left Rear (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple = Right Rear (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple/Black = Right Rear (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue = Accessory (power antenna, amp, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you connect the Yellow wire from the stereo, to the wire you identified as constant power earlier. If you do not locate a constant power source in the vehicles wire bundle, you can route one from the interior fuse box or splice it from a nearby source. However, you'll want to make sure this new power wire contains an inline fuse of the appropriate size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the stereo hooked up to constant power, you should never have to reset your stations again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T16:56:18.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3407" CreationDate="2012-04-25T21:15:29.637" Score="2" ViewCount="4567" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glass cover of one of the fog lights has broken on my car. I thought changing it couldn't be too hard a  job and so I already have a whole fog light part to replace it myself. The Haynes Manual I have suggests there are to different styles of Fiesta fog light access that require it to be changed 2 different ways, either pop off the plastic panel and change it, or unscrew a screw pop off the panel and change it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the problem is... My Fiesta isn't either of those!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have deduced I can only work out I have to take off the entire front bumper to access the fog light. Is this right or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If necessary I could take a picture of where the fog light resides if it would aide anyone in knowing how to replace the fog light on my Fiesta?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T14:41:36.053" Title="Ford Fiesta MK6 front fog light" Tags="|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3386" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:34:50.777" Score="1" ViewCount="2980" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to happen particularly when the bike is hot.  But sometimes when I go to start up the bike, the solenoid will click, but the starter won't turn over.  Tapping the starter with a hammer always seems to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just need a new starter?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it helps, the bike is an 2007 HD Electra Glide Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T11:57:30.177" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T11:57:30.177" Title="Motorcycle starter sometimes clicks, but doesn't start - tapping with hammer helps it start" Tags="|motorcycle|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2012-04-26T03:27:26.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to inspect the electrical connections to ensure they are tight and not corroded, but most likely you will need a new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T03:27:26.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2012-04-26T08:20:01.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be the &lt;strong&gt;carbon brushes that are almost worn out&lt;/strong&gt;. These brushes ensure the electrical connection between the stationary and rotary parts of the starter motor. Tapping the motor could shift the position of one or both brushes enough to make a connection, thus rotating the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushes are probably comparatively cheap and potentially easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLwPY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Image from www.hallvw.clara.net/starter.htm&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hallvw.clara.net/starter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hallvw.clara.net/starter.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T08:20:01.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3391" CreationDate="2012-04-26T14:01:51.487" Score="3" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of 10 Litre steel jerrycans which I used for draining kerosene (UN1223 28sec burning oil) from a tank. After disposing of the kerosene I left the open jerrycans upside down over some oil-absorbing pellets for a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to re-use these jerrycans to store unleaded petrol (gasoline) for my car - which is what they are designed for. Do they need further cleaning or is the tiny amount of kerosene residue unlikely to do any harm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T22:06:57.370" Title="Cleaning a Jerrycan" Tags="|fuel-system|oil|cleaning|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2012-04-26T17:27:00.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;If you haven't done this sort of work before, I would NOT recommend that you try this on your own.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm specifically wondering if these amounts sound reasonable (about&#xA;  $455 to $600); if anyone has ideas on how to get a better price on the&#xA;  job; and whether with a standard set of tools (the kind that a very&#xA;  casual handyman would have) and whatever else could be rented or&#xA;  borrowed, we could do this ourselves and for cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search and it appears that your strut replacement would be very similar to the two replacements I did on our Subarus at home.  Here's a very rough estimate of how I would expect the parts to break down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Struts (rears only): about $180 to $200.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tops and bumpstops: between $0 and $100 (if you bought an all-in-one strut, you don't need these).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spring compressor: about $20 (which you either don't need for an all-in-one strut or you will literally die without if you didn't).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack, jack stands or ramps, sockets and drivers, power tools, etc.  Basically everything listed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1580/car-enthusiast-beginner-kit&quot;&gt;Car enthusiast beginner tool kit&lt;/a&gt;.  This could be anywhere from $0 (if you already have everything) to $infinity (I haven't stopped spending money on tools).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done these jobs fairly recently, I am able to say without fear of contradiction that doing this job in your own garage is a serious commitment of time, sweat, grime, skin and some blood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, looking over your estimates, none of them are super crazy in terms of parts vs. labor costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I did our cars because (a) I'm a control freak about this sort of thing and (b) I am a crazy person.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both of these do not apply in your situation, I recommend that you select a shop that you can trust and pay them to take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T17:27:00.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3387" CreationDate="2012-04-26T22:06:57.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small amount of residue left will do no harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T22:06:57.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T05:42:53.290" Score="3" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to adjust the height of my Kawazaki ER6n from 2006. Specifically, I want to reset the height to factory settings. Is this something that's possible to do without hiring a certified mechanic or do I need special tools etc to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1754" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:08:52.613" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T23:09:41.320" Title="My ER6 was lowered to accomodate a shorter driver than me. How can I adjust the height?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|kawasaki|swingarm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T12:35:07.570" Score="5" ViewCount="2198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, but not always, when I turn the steering wheel (during parking for example) I can hear a shuffling sound from somewhere near the steering wheel mounting. This happens when turning in both directions and regardless of whether the car is moving or stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be some bearings being worn out and just waiting to seize when I'm doing 130km/h on a motorway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any easy steps to narrow down the possible causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1543" LastEditorUserId="1543" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T12:49:18.537" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T18:15:12.357" Title="Steering wheel shuffling sound when turning - Astra H" Tags="|noise|steering-wheel|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T17:40:52.173" Score="5" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where E85 Ethanol is available (not very common), the price per gallon is often lower than regular unleaded gasoline. Though I've read that fuel economy is commonly reduced by 20% or more, when using E85 Ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a flexible fuel vehicle; so it can run on either fuel, but I'm not sure if I can actually save money by switching to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to reduce fuel costs by switching to E85, or is it better to stick to good ol' gasoline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T07:25:31.597" Title="Can I save money using E85 in my flexible fuel vehicle?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2012-04-27T18:20:12.873" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an easy experiment to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your tank with unleaded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive a well-known standard route.  For example, my commute is almost always the same from day to day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive to gas station and re-fill the tank with unleaded.  Note amount filled and cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the total miles driven from steps 1 - 3 and divide by the number of gallons filled in step 3.  That's your miles per gallon (bigger is better).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the total miles driven from steps 1 - 3 and divide by the cash paid in step 3.  That's your miles per dollar (bigger is better).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 1-5 until you feel like you have a good data set for unleaded fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now repeat steps 1-6 except that everywhere you see &quot;unleaded&quot;, put &quot;E85.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this point, you should be able to conclude whether the economics are recommending a particular fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Later, you can consider the ecological and emissions impacts of the two fuels and make your own choice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T18:20:12.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3402" CreationDate="2012-04-27T19:34:42.233" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Mazda 6 2005 have a connector I can use to get info from the on board sensors? If so is there a Bluetooth dongle/iPhone app for it. I am almost sure I have heard of such a thing but can't figure out what to google for to find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T15:21:15.587" Title="Getting Mazda 6 real time sensor information?" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2012-04-27T19:52:51.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real answer is: Is this worth it to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T19:52:51.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-28T13:40:59.120" Score="2" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have checked &lt;a href=&quot;http://haynes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;haynes.com&lt;/a&gt; but it seems like they only cover C230 - C350. Any other good sources to check? I have tried to contact Mercedes-Benz Europe directly via e-mail for a regular manual, but they haven't answered that now in 4 weeks, so a question on repair manual seems to be in vain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T06:43:06.617" Title="Where can I get/buy a repair manual for a Mercedes-Benz CLK200 Kompressor -2002?" Tags="|maintenance|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-29T00:09:19.647" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;What follows is a simple problem with hopefully a simple solution. While mechanically-oriented, vehicle repair is not my specialty, so forgive me for any lapses in problem description and terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 2004 Grand Marquis GS, inclusive of the factory and owner manual. My immediate family owns a second model year of the same, with a similar reproduction on this issue, so I know it isn't isolated to just my vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That issue is simple: &lt;strong&gt;at interval, the car's electronics will completely cut out during ignition. In these cases, sparse or no power will be available to other electrical components, and the ignition may be left spinning unless the vehicle brake is depressed.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of the basics of how the system operates (that is, it's an electronic ignition, where and how my battery operates, how the Lighting Control Module (LCM) connects, et cetera), but I'm unsure of the current scope and correct fix to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I need to know the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to operate my vehicle in this state? That is to say, is this isolated to and only to the ignition sequence?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What steps should I take to troubleshoot or provide more information on this issue? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What steps should I take to &lt;em&gt;fix&lt;/em&gt; the issue? More concretely, if the answer is to replace fuses, the battery, or some specific subcomponent or module, I'm competent enough to be able to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0fe921&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread on LCM repair&lt;/a&gt;, but because this otherwise isn't my area of competence, I'm unable to make easy sense of the information provided. I can, however, make sense of the service and user documentation, and I should be competent enough to make small repairs. Anything larger than a few modules or that requires a dash teardown is going to a professional mechanic, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for your time and thoughts on this. If I can provide any additional information to help here, feel free to ask away in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1759" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T06:33:46.210" Title="Bounds and solution to electrical failure in a 2004 Grand Marquis" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3399" CreationDate="2012-04-29T00:38:51.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple problem, simple fix. Popped the trunk, discovered the cathode terminal on my battery was corroded over (which I wouldn't have taken as a warning sign before asking for help). It turned out that, even after flushing off the damage, my six-year-old battery had finally gone bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I verified this by watching the performance of other electrical components in the vehicle, noticing dimming and other warning signs of a failing battery. I also queried the symptoms to the peanut gallery on Twitter, and the overwhelming response was &quot;bad terminal connection or bad battery.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After purchasing a fresh battery and lugging it a few blocks, dropping it in fixed the issue. I would speculate that the electrical components would have remained in a shoddy and inconsistent state had I not done so, and under those circumstances, the vehicle would indeed have been unsafe to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll leave this here as a signpost for others running into the issue. Battery-bound, erratic electrical failure is a common enough failure case that others might benefit from reading about it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1759" LastEditorUserId="1759" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T06:33:46.210" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T06:33:46.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3404" CreationDate="2012-04-29T09:06:40.857" Score="4" ViewCount="10785" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if you're driving 200+ miles and your car breaks down? Assuming you don't know anyone in the area it happens in, is there any way out of this nightmare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T10:39:45.993" Title="What to do if your car breaks down a LONG way from home?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-29T12:01:39.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3396" CreationDate="2012-04-29T15:21:15.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2005 car will be OBD-II so with an OBD-II dongle and some appropriate software you should be able to read the basic information you get via standard OBD-II. Depending on how Mazda implemented the connection you might well have to use Mazda-specific software to read all the information that the ECU can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T15:21:15.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2012-04-29T20:09:12.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you belong to some type of travel organization such as AAA etc.The people they contract with have to be somewhat reputable.This is not to say that they hire the most honest,but they at least are a legitamite company.I would suggest paying only with a credit card as in most states this gives you recourse through the card company if you feel you were cheated.Ask to take with you any parts that were replaced if you can.Then you can have the part checked when you return home to see if it was really defective.I would reccomend national chains if available such a Sears,Firestone,PepBoys.While they may not be your first choice a home they at least have a consumer complaint dept you can contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T20:09:12.037" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-29T20:09:12.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2012-04-29T22:58:31.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insurance/coverage with your equivalent of AA/RAC/GreenFlag etc. is your best bet (or have a lot fo close friends on facebook/google+ who will help you out!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I break down anywhere in Europe, I can get my car taken to the nearest brand service centre, and if necessary get a flight home paid for. It has never been needed, and does cost a little bit more a month, but if I ever need it, I'll be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://infosecfrog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/being-prepared.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;blog post on winter preparedness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; a while back which you might find interesting. Apologies for the self-promotion, but it covers a fair amount of related aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T10:39:45.993" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T10:39:45.993" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-29T22:58:31.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2012-04-30T06:54:41.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wrong tension is on the belt one of two things could happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too loose: Skip a tooth or two on the belt - this leads to&#xA;early/late firing and possibly pistons slapping on to valves if the&#xA;clearances are already tight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too tight: extra tension put on the&#xA;belt - this can lead to bearings being incorrectly loaded and at&#xA;worst a failure in the belt - new valves, skimmed head and possibly&#xA;big end damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say it is, for the sake of around £200 it can prevent a catastrophic failure (and yes I have experienced it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T06:54:41.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2012-04-30T13:47:13.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those of us who don't like running experiments ourselves, and would prefer to look at others data. This type of information is available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://fueleconomy.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuel Economy.gov&lt;/a&gt;. If you click the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Find a car&lt;/a&gt; link, you can select your vehicle and get all sorts of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EPA&lt;/a&gt; data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T13:47:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2012-04-30T13:49:31.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like on some Fiestas you need to remove the headlamp to access the fog light. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/31017-new-fog-lights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/31017-new-fog-lights/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T13:49:31.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2012-04-30T17:41:33.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to search for this data is to use site like Fuelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can search Google for the following query “E85 site:fuelly.com”. There we get results that point mostly to fuel-up logs tagged with “E85”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, we can pick one of the results, and see E85 fuel-ups of someone’s &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/driver/thewolftamer/hhr/log/tag/e85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2010 Chevrolet HHR with flex L4&lt;/a&gt;. Then we can compare those with their other fuel ups (checking notes for references to style of driving, highway v. city etc.), and with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/hhr/flex%20l4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;other flex-fuel Chevrolet HHRs&lt;/a&gt; registered on the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it would take some homework, but chances are your vehicle is already there, and there is some data available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T17:41:33.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3416" CreationDate="2012-05-01T04:34:11.970" Score="5" ViewCount="1326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just broke down. Here's a description: ('97 Subaru Legacy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving completely normally along a town road, the car suddenly began to sputter and jump as I pressed on the gas. Then the check engine light started FLASHING, which I'd never even seen before. Meanwhile I could hear a very loud clicking coming from somewhere beyond the left air vent, right next to the driver's door. So I immediately pulled over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called a slightly more car-knowledgeable friend, and they came and listened to the various sounds/effects of me pressing on the gas, and immediately said &quot;It's trying to change gears and it can't. Something's wrong with the transmission.&quot; This seemed obvious to me in retrospect, but I hadn't thought of it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anyway, we opened the hood and checked the transmission fluid: empty. Before I left home for college a month ago, I had a mechanic give my car a VERY thorough lookover after taking it out of a year of storage.  How they failed to notice this is beyond me, and kind of upsets me. But this is beside the point. I bought a quart of the appropriate transmission fluid and poured it in (my manual is missing, so I wasn't sure how much it would need...a quart seemed like a good starting place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem didn't go away. When I started the car, it started fine. When I shifted to drive, it died. This happened 3 times before it stayed on after shifting to drive. Once I pressed the gas, the sputtering and jumping resumed, along with the clicking, engine light, and general failure to change gears. The car moved forward, but slowly. I turned it off pretty fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having it towed and looked at tomorrow, but I'm impatient. Can anyone take a stab at what kind of problem I'm looking at here? I'm hoping to God I don't have to replace the transmission. For all I know I just didn't put enough fluid in yet. Anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; The mechanic said he can't even start the car, and that it looks like the car hasn't gotten a tune-up since it was originally purchased. He's going to replace spark plugs, wires, and coils. That'll cost me $200+ before he's even gotten the codes from the engine to figure out what the other problem is. It never stops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1631" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T22:56:20.253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T22:56:20.253" Title="Is my automatic transmission broken?" Tags="|maintenance|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2012-05-01T05:31:19.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the answer for part (1) :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7809103_repair-peeling-clear-coat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_7809103_repair-peeling-clear-coat.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5028554_fix-peeling-clear-coat-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_5028554_fix-peeling-clear-coat-car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the answer for part (2) :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_2136091_fix-minor-scratch-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_2136091_fix-minor-scratch-car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5309590_fix-scratches-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_5309590_fix-scratches-car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5596574_fix-car-scratch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_5596574_fix-car-scratch.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1637" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T05:31:19.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2012-05-01T05:47:55.840" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More intuitive, less scientific reply. Fuel economy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/driver/theug/tu250x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my motorcycle&lt;/a&gt; (250cc, electronic ignition and FI, thus comparable in behaviour to EFI automobiles), recently dropped off fairly considerably (below 80 with lowest of 76 MPG per fuel-up). Disregarding possible negative influence of winter additives (is there any truth to that?), one thing in common between those less-efficient fuel ups was me lugging it, i.e. shifting gears early, and slowly accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even though I took it easy, the amount of work it had to perform turned out to be higher than normal. Last two fuel-ups I went back to manufacturer-recommended shifting intervals, and my fuel economy went back over 82MPG (85 latest), and with much sprightlier acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T05:47:55.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2012-05-01T09:09:30.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be friendly. You don't know if the locals are hostile to your religious affiliation / your gender driving a vehicle / your social status. But no matter how they approach you, remain friendly and don't reciprocate any aggression. When you are stranded your first concern is your immediate safety, not the vehicle repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after you have established friendly communication with either a local or another motorist, then try to figure out what to do with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T09:09:30.490" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-01T09:09:30.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3409" CreationDate="2012-05-01T09:16:56.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the new transmission fluid. Does it have any evidence of metal in it? Is it at the proper level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the sputtering and jumping when pressing on the gas sounds more engine-related than transmission related. How does it idle? How does it respond when redlining in neutral? Check all the vacuum lines and the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T09:16:56.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3393" CreationDate="2012-05-01T09:18:50.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure about the location of the sound? It might be a loose or worn power steering belt that is slipping when the power steering pump is put under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T09:18:50.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2012-05-01T12:53:51.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have AAA+ (100 mile free towing).  A lot of my trips are well beyond that, but it covers the vast majority of my risk exposure.  Beyond that, it's wise to have extra clothes, basic toiletries, and a credit card with lots of room on it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AAA can still help you find a (at least semi-reputable) shop, but you're going to have to be able to cover the repairs and inconvenience somehow.  They can also set you up with pay per mile towing if you want that option.  Call around yourself as well, I found a place before that was only $2 a mile w/AAA discount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice is that if you find yourself on a trip you can barely afford (no money/margin for error), you should re-think your planning...  Perhaps revise the trip, or cancel completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T12:53:51.190" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-01T12:53:51.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3409" CreationDate="2012-05-01T15:01:10.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;my manual is missing, so I wasn't sure how much it would need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's fix this problem first thing.  Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/account.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MySubaru&lt;/a&gt; with your VIN number and create an account.  You'll have immediate searcheable access to all of the manual information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;we opened the hood and checked the transmission fluid: empty. ... I&#xA;  bought a quart of the appropriate transmission fluid and poured it in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least two things have gone wrong:&#xA;1. Your transmission fluid went dry (automatic transmission is not going to work without fluid).&#xA;2. You didn't put in nearly enough replacement fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always remember, regardless of owners manual availability, dipsticks are marked.  If you check the stick and it's below the FILL line, it's needs filling.  If it's dry, it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; needs filling (and damage may have occured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were totally on your own, I would recommend adding the correct amount of transmission fluid and giving the car a try.  I don't have the 97 information in front of me but it appears that the correct amount should be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/5843-changing-automatic-transmission-fluid-easy.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on the order of five quarts&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, you should keep a close eye on the transmission fluid (and all other fluids, of course).  You're clearly leaking or losing fluid from somewhere.  This is going to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T15:01:10.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3372" CreationDate="2012-05-01T23:38:53.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description was really vague, but here is some thoughts. From what I gather, engine does turn over (i.e. it actually spins), just does not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the engine to start, you need two major ingredients: fuel and spark. Obvious first things is to check if fuel is in the tank, and pet-cock is open (if available). Spark can be checked by taking the spark plug out, putting electrode to the engine block with wire on (careful to stay insulated to avoid shock), and cranking the engine to see if spark appears. By the condition of the plug you can also see if the engine was flooded with fuel (that is why there is a pet-cock on carburetted engines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these obvious things check out, see if the fuel gets to the cylinders. Close the pet-cock, disconnect the hose, open the pet-cock, see if fuel goes through. Repeat the procedure down the line all the way to intake ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are basic engine no-start troubleshooting steps. Other than that, we need more information: how well was it working before, what is your experience with motorcycles, and how long have you owned it? Was it just out of storage (if that, was the fuel drained or stabilized?), or used regularly? Was it maintained well? Etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T23:38:53.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-02T00:28:12.443" Score="2" ViewCount="6424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 1993 Triton ute. It has a 4G54 carby engine. It's run as well as can be expected of an engine like that with nearly 400k on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently one day I jumped in to go for a drive down the road and it wouldn't start. The engine would turn over but just wouldn't ignite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through the usual test. Pour a small amount of fuel into the carby directly and see if it will ignite that way. I figured that should be able to tell me if it's a fuel supply issue or an electrical issue. Nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming then that it was electrical I pulled one of the plugs out and shorted it to the body and had someone try to start it. I got a weak yellow spark from the plug. I had expected more of a blue spark and I assumed that perhaps there was a fault in the ignition system. I put the plug back in and reconnected it, then unplugged the lead from the coil to the distributor. This I attached to a spare plug and shorted it and turned the engine, this resulted in an even weaker spark. I also tested the ballast resistor just to make sure it was okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leads and plugs weren't that old and in good condition so I decided I would have to start with replacing the coil. A few days later, when I was ready to do so I thought I'd check. It started and ran fine, multiple times. Up to yesterday in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it yesterday and it seemed normal. Later that night I wanted to drive down the road but it wouldn't start. This morning I thought I'd try and start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter had barely turned when there was an extremely loud bang. Louder than a normal backfire. I checked everything and could not find any sign of external damage, no smoke, no fire, no evidence of explosion. The starter motor is intact. I've turned the engine by hand to check the valves were still opening and closing, they are so it shouldn't be the timing chain. After checking what I could think of I tried starting it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns over but doesn't start. I'm lost as to what the bang was... the only thing I can think is that somehow there was fuel in one or multiple cylinders since trying to start it last night. It's never happened before though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any advice anyone can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T12:02:53.847" Title="What might cause inconsistant ignition, an extemely loud bang but no visible damage?" Tags="|electrical|starting|ignition|mitsubishi|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3630" CreationDate="2012-05-02T08:40:56.017" Score="4" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hearing a lot about iridium spark plugs lately. I have read claims that these plugs are more durable than copper plugs due to iridiums high melting point and anti-corrosive properties, but what I'm wondering is, how much better do they perform in real life? Not just on paper. Is the difference in their performance life large enough to justify the price difference? (especially for a top end brand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some difference described in this post&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2022/1771&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2022/1771&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:18:25.170" Title="How much longer than a copper plug will an iridium plug last (on average)?" Tags="|performance|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1252" CreationDate="2012-05-02T10:55:15.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jeep has problems with the altinator as well and seen this thread notice that my jeep has the same simptoms and though id jump in here.my battery guage drops when I rev the motor to about 2200 rpm then it dies .its doesn't always do it but I've spent well over 400 getting it toed back to the house.I only paid like 300 bucks for it so I'm not doin to bad I got like a grand in it and its only got 50,000miles on it.but my altinator doesn't whine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T10:55:15.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3418" CreationDate="2012-05-02T12:02:53.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the bang was, as you suggest, unburnt fuel going up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take it you now have a good spark, if it has been running well since changing the coil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mauro's comment says, what do the plugs look like? Are they clean, or do they show signs of overfuelling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it turn over at normal speed on the starter, or does it spin a lot faster, slower or lumpier than usual? I assume you have tried pouring a little fuel into the carb again, and/or a quick squirt of easy-start (&quot;startyabastard&quot; over there I believe? ) in the intake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the exhause gases smell of unburn fuel when you turn the engine over? (You'll need an assistant for that, obviously!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth doing a compression test, that's usually a good way of spotting any signs of internal damage - a tester can be picked up for very little from most car parts suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T12:02:53.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3457" CreationDate="2012-05-02T13:04:02.570" Score="2" ViewCount="3722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a 58 plate (late 2008) Seat Leon FR TDi 170. I am aware of the injector recall, however I would like to know for how long the problematic injectors were a problem for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The posts I read all reference 06, 56, 07 models...I am looking at a 58 - are they still affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car I am looking at has 95,000 miles on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T10:09:53.593" Title="Seat Leon FR TDi 170 injector recall - affected cars" Tags="|maintenance|parts|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3193" CreationDate="2012-05-02T14:21:00.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dug around on this one, and didn't turn up too much. The best I found was 3dcadbrowser which contains a lot of downloadable 3ds files for CAD, but unfortunately not quite all of them are specific brands. Pretty good selection though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/browse.aspx?category=52&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/browse.aspx?category=52&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T14:21:00.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3422" CreationDate="2012-05-02T15:14:07.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quickest way is probably to phone a Seat dealer and ask. Usually recalls are &quot;Any vehicle with a VIN in the range X to Y&quot; - so all you need to do is find that range and make sure the car you're looking at isn't in it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VOSA Database&lt;/a&gt; also has a list of all official recalls on UK market cars or parts, and doesn't list any for a 2008 Leon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T15:14:07.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3429" CreationDate="2012-05-02T16:26:18.363" Score="3" ViewCount="3424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically speaking, let's say I've equipped a vehicle with an aftermarket audio system with an amplifier that has a higher draw (in amps) than my alternator produces causing my average voltage (while system is active) to drop to around 10-11 volts. How drastically can I expect this to effect the life of my alternator and battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T23:16:08.240" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T10:21:31.333" Title="Effects of significant draw on alternator and battery" Tags="|electrical|alternator|power|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3425" CreationDate="2012-05-02T17:06:06.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better consider an alternator upgrade when it blows up.  You'll probably be blowing it up pretty soon.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T17:06:06.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3425" CreationDate="2012-05-02T18:47:01.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put too much of a load on the alternator it will constantly max itself out as it tries to keep up with the demand.  Running at max will heat up the alternator and eventually it will burn out.  As @Brian pointed out, probably sooner than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most aftermarket audio systems that require higher amps also have high output alternators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T18:47:01.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2012-05-02T19:07:21.010" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from financial and environmental considerations, U.S. and Canadian governmental agencies say that idling produces various negative effects on engine components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During idling engine does not work at its most efficient mode, and the fuel combustion is incomplete. That leads to glazing of combustion chamber and reducing effectiveness of spark plugs in petrol engines (plugs with heavy deposits can foul, and that can reduce fuel consumption by 4 to 5%). Also petrol can contaminate the motor oil which reduces its lubricating qualities (that could mean more frequent oil changes and/or increased wear on the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as the engine runs at less than ideal operating temperature, which causes water vapour (a product of combustion) to accumulate in exhaust system (at proper temperature and at higher speed of exiting gasses caused by increased RPMs it clears out pretty good), which leads to corrosion. Also, idling produces up to 10–12% more emissions than driving for the same amount of petrol used due to incomplete combustion and ineffective operation of catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for people worrying about excessive wear on starting system components, here is some math. According to some estimates, frequent re-starting of the engine can cost about $10 a year extra in replacement parts etc. (In my experience, I had never had to replace a starter (or solenoid, or flywheel gears etc.) in many years I owned several cars (I do drive less than most). And even if people treat their vehicles like junk it might be once in 8–10 years.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let us assume we drive mid-sized car that averages 25 MPG for a 1000 miles (~1600km) a month, or 12000 mi/year. That makes it use about 480 gal/year (12000/25). Assuming modest reduction in fuel efficiency of 5%, that amounts to 24 extra gal/year for the same amount of miles driven ((480 x 1.05) - 480). At low estimate of $3.50 per gallon, that amounts to $84 a year in increased fuel consumption. Saving that, new starter would pay off in less than three years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are very, very conservative calculations. Some numbers cited by various no-idle campaigns estimate that 10 minutes of idling uses about 0.1 gallon of fuel (for a small car). If you idle 10 minutes a day, it adds up to more than 35 gallons a year. And it only takes 10-15 seconds worth of fuel to restart the car. You can save real money just by shutting off the engine on rail-road crossings, at drive-throughs, on long street lights (not recommended for average person) etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T19:07:21.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3425" CreationDate="2012-05-03T00:48:12.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After installing high wattage stereos with stock alternators, I have burned out alternators in less than 30 minutes, and I have also had them last months.  It would be prudent to plan for an early failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T00:48:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2012-05-03T01:03:09.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is an educated assumption...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In geology a mineral's hardness is measured according to different scales. A common one is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mohs scale of hardness&lt;/a&gt;, which ranks minerals from softest (talc) to hardest (diamond). The only way a mineral can scratch the other, is for the mohs hardness value to be higher. Now, according to the link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Graphite - 1.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copper - 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iron, Nickel - 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platinum, Steel - 4-4.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming parts manufacturers are aware of this, anti-seize should not have an adverse effect on heavy equipment, automobiles, and the likes. This assumption assumes the alloys used in all these parts are harder than the metals used in anti-seize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T01:03:09.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2012-05-03T02:30:22.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a community wiki answer so anyone is free to edit it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So if you know a sensible answer to any of the unknown parts below, please feel free add some useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Front Engine Front Wheel Drive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  2 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; SAAB 900 (original, not the &quot;new 900&quot;)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Average Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  6 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 1991 Eagle Talon&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  12 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2002 Audi A4 FWD  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Front Engine Rear Wheel Drive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  3 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2000 Chevy Truck&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Average Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  5 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2008 Holden Commodore&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  14 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 1989 Porsche 944&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(from Larry’s answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Transverse Engine All Wheel Drive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Average Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Longitudinal Engine All Wheel Drive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Average Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Longitudinal Engine 4 Wheel Drive&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  4 hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 1997 Jeep Cherokee&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Average Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum Time:&lt;/strong&gt;  xx hours &lt;strong&gt;Example Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The above data would be better formatted as a table, but unfortunately the Stack Exchange implementation of Markdown doesn’t support tables at this time. If and when it does, feel free to re-format into a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T00:59:05.117" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T00:59:05.117" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-03T02:30:22.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-03T07:59:18.597" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/229/are-fuel-system-cleaners-like-gumout-worth-using-regularly&quot;&gt;Are fuel system cleaners (like Gumout) worth using regularly?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do products like Redex, which state that they &quot;[help] to stop harmful deposits build up on the carburettor and in the fuel system, which can reduce the vehicle's performance&quot;, actually work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, when one follows the directions and adds it to diesel (in my case) or petrol while filling up, is one just &quot;burning money&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1034" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T07:59:18.597" Title="Do products like Redex work?" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|cleaning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-07-27T18:09:27.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2012-05-04T02:51:48.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also try RealOEM.com, it's a great resource for parts diagrams and part numbers.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1733" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:24:23.563" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:24:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3440" CreationDate="2012-05-04T14:49:55.870" Score="10" ViewCount="90688" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question of curiosity. I have a '98 Acura Integra, a cheap car stereo with a 3.5mm aux in, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0065NLQ1I&quot;&gt;a cheap inverter&lt;/a&gt; and a smart phone. If I have the smart phone audio hooked up to the car stereo and the inverter charging the phone I get a high pitched tone through the speakers at around 4k RPM that increases in pitch with the RPM of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the solution is to not use the inverter, there is no reason to be doing that, but I'm curious why the pitch of the noise fluctuates with the engine RPM. Shouldn't the output of that DC outlet be mostly consistent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1776" LastEditorUserId="10771" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T19:48:13.313" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T01:38:33.050" Title="Noise in stereo that changes pitch with engine RPM" Tags="|electrical|noise|alternator|audio|acura|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3453" CreationDate="2012-05-04T20:44:57.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got a 2004 Toyota Corolla 'S' that, ever since we acquired it years ago, has problems starting when it is refueled.  Basically, the engine will crank for a few seconds before finally taking off.  All other times, the car is fine - first crank and fires right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've never had a problem with it where it wouldn't start, just takes a few cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never looked for any answers before, and therefore have never tried anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more information on the car, let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1768" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:35:02.177" Title="Refueling 2004 Toyota Corolla S Causes Problematic Starting" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|ignition|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2012-05-04T20:50:17.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When converting the 12V DC from your battery to whatever voltage the inverter puts out, there are conversion steps internally to AC and back through switching the voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switching circuit frequency is probably sensitive to the voltage, and as this varies (can be from 11 to even 15v in some cars) that could change the speed of the switching stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T20:50:17.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-04T21:03:35.327" Score="1" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Toyota Corolla S does not lock or open the central door lock when moving from/to “Park”. The manual and remote works just fine.  It is only with the automatic transmission that when I move to “Park”, it does not release the lock and doesn’t lock when I move from “Park” to “Drive”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1777" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T19:48:07.633" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T10:33:24.740" Title="Electric central door lock does not work with automatic transmission shifting to and from “Park”" Tags="|toyota|locks|door|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3438" CreationDate="2012-05-04T21:37:17.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see if your door lock sequence mode got changed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5640027_change-door-lock-sequence-toyota.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;change-door-lock-sequence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T21:37:17.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2012-05-05T09:53:09.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time a ground loop is the cause of this problem. This problem is common especially if your stereos speakers are amplified, and can be fixed my making sure that your stereo unit and/or amplifier have a good ground connection. This can be done by either finding a more direct ground connection to the cars frame, sanding the area around your ground connection to remove any rust or paint that could be adding grounding resistance, or even running a ground wire from your stereo or amp directly to your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, it is most likely that you are constantly experiencing the whining sound. With the engine idling if you put your ear up to the speaker you will probably hear the sound, it just doesn't become noticeable until higher revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Making sure any wires you add (+ or -) are properly insulated always helps too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this link for a full description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999502.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999502.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastEditorUserId="1771" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T10:00:30.950" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T10:00:30.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3452" CreationDate="2012-05-05T12:03:30.537" Score="1" ViewCount="11081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace the wiper blade inserts on the original Toyota Highlander 2006 Hybrid blades.  Not all dealers carry these, I'd like to order them online, but cannot seem to find anyone that carries all three, (front right, front left, and rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I locate the exact part numbers for these and where might these be purchased online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think this would be easy, but after spending over an hour searching, the best I could find was the rear and passenger front, but no driver front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T23:14:17.627" Title="Where can I find OEM inserts for Toyota wiper blades?" Tags="|toyota|parts|part-identification|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3454" CreationDate="2012-05-05T15:22:09.683" Score="3" ViewCount="46187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my AC compressor removed and replaced with a dummy pulley about a year ago. The reason was I had a long trip ahead of me and the compressor was making some funny noises, as if she was about to blow. I'd like to go ahead and put in a new compressor and have the system re-charged, however I'd like to make sure I don't set my new compressor up  for failure. I am passingly familiar with the need to replace additional components in the system after a bad compressor, i.e. some sort of filter, as well as the need to flush the system, in order to remove foreign debris that will damage the new compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Is it legal for a DIYer to attempt this sort of repair?&#xA;2. What are all of the components that need to be&#xA;   replaced to prevent problems down the line?&#xA;3. Can I complete the repair myself, or do I need a&#xA;   professional to perform the actual recharge of the system?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite adept at automotive repairs, and don't mind attempting one that is a little more involved. I currently live in the Detroit metropolitan area, though I will be moving to the DC metro area shortly, if there any difference in legality between the two locations. The lines were capped when the dummy pulley was installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:39:24.803" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T03:10:26.407" Title="AC sytem repair after bad compressor" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2012-05-05T15:34:44.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to point out that E85 has a lower energy density than gasoline. Therefore, although you are paying less per gallon of fuel, you may be paying an equivalent amount (or more!) per, say, kilo-Joule of energy. This can easily be verified using the above-posted experiment. Additionally, Wikipedia states that E85 has 33% less energy content than gasoline. So, assuming equivalent efficiency for both fuels (which realistically is rather unlikely) you would need to see &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; a 33% drop in the price of E85 in order to see a net benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T15:34:44.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2012-05-05T15:38:09.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One component I like to do with valve cover gaskets, since it only involves a few more bolts, are the cam seals (if you have overhead cams). You'll have the valve cover off, so you should be doing this anyway, but be sure that you don't allow any debris to fall in there, especially on the cam journals. This could lead to a catastrophic failure in your vehicle requiring expensive repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T15:38:09.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2012-05-05T15:44:21.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a problem in which the wipers would not turn off when I told them to. The fix involved replacing the motor itself, not some sort of external control system or relay. I took the old motor apart, and it definitely seems that there is an embedded control mechanism, which explains the necessity of replacing the whole motor. I found this preferable, however, to tearing apart my dash to replace something in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T15:44:21.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2012-05-06T09:27:11.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The horn usually works by routing fused +12V to the horn(s), and then run a wire through the column and connect it to a ground inside the steering wheel. This allows for one wire to rotate in the steering column rather than two (on older vehicles that don't use a CAN bus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would postulate that your dash has a bad ground connection which is worsened when you turn your ignition on. You could easily add your own ground strap to clear this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T09:27:11.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2012-05-07T02:35:38.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the tests that I've seen, E85 gets less MPG.  Here are a couple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E85 vs. Gasoline Comparison Test&lt;/a&gt; (edmunds.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=fuel&amp;amp;subject=fuelAlt&amp;amp;story=e85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E85: Will it Save You Money?&lt;/a&gt; (cars.com).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting fact about E85 that not all people know is that it's more resistant to detonation so some high performance enthusiasts will use it to extract more power out of their cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T07:25:31.597" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T07:25:31.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2012-05-07T02:43:25.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fronts are listed on Toyota's website.  I'm not sure why the rear isn't, but it sound like you already have the part number for the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/WiperBlade2011and2007.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/WiperBlade2011and2007.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T02:43:25.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-07T09:03:15.143" Score="2" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought old car, a 2001 VW Bora, and the ventilation system is full of dust, when I turn the heater on – I can smell burning dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I clean the air vent system besides changing the pollen filter? Is there an easy way of cleaning the air heater and the air pipes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1779" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T23:10:31.653" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T23:12:16.510" Title="Pollen filter, air heater and dust in the air ventilation" Tags="|vw|cleaning|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3449" CreationDate="2012-05-07T13:36:52.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best method I've heard for cleaning really dirty vents is compressed air.  Depending on the sources available, you should be able to blow most of the loose dust off the sides of the ventilation system.  Even a can of compressed air from the local office supply store is better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, depending on the configuration of a particular car, you may have to remove the dash, etc., to get direct access to the air path.  If you're using one of those small cans, you're definitely going to want to open things up (they don't have a long reach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the really loose stuff is blown away, you can fashion a chimney brush-equivalent from a stiff wire or piece of dowel tied to a small rag.  Be certain that it's tightly affixed, though, as you don't want to leave a handkerchief jammed down in your HVAC system…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware, you're going to shake loose a lot of dust.  I strongly advise wearing a dust mask (a full ventilator is probably not necessary) and working outside with the windows open.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T23:12:16.510" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T23:12:16.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3455" CreationDate="2012-05-07T14:56:28.403" Score="2" ViewCount="1832" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Buick LeSabre recently started behaving strangely. At first I thought I had filled up with some &quot;bad gas.&quot; I used Heat to treat and after a week or so it seemingly started to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then today, it is raining pretty steadily and as I was driving on the interstate, it started sputtering again. This was after about 10 minutes driving in the rain. I can set the cruise control and it will run &quot;fine&quot; until it needs to accelerate. Same thing happens when I come to a stop and need to accelerate to get up to speed. I have to slowly accelerate, giving it only a intermittent tap on the gas pedal until I get up to speed, otherwise it nearly dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what this could be? I don't want to take it to the dealer for exploratory surgery until I have a somewhat educated idea of what the problem could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1781" LastEditorUserId="1781" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T15:51:43.840" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T16:36:07.050" Title="2004 Buick LeSabre sputters in wet weather only when accelerating" Tags="|engine|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:08:13.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@MD6380's answer is for the blade, not for the insert (rubber in the Toyota parts catalog), but they seem to state that there are no inserts available for theses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyodiy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ToyoDIY.com&lt;/a&gt; website, it's should be these&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RH: 85214‑53040 (03/2005 - 04/2006) or 85214‑53041 (06/2006 - )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LH: 85214‑48010&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;REAR: 85214‑31010&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:08:13.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:35:02.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to check is the EVAP system.  If your gas tank is overfilled you may be getting some fuel in the charcoal canister. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure when your refuel, don't overfill your tank by trying to 'round up' to the next dollar, stop when the pump handle shuts off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things to check may be your refuel check valve and fuel cutoff valve (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1795875-car_start_right_away_after_refueling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;car_start_right_away_after_refueling&lt;/a&gt;). Another possibility is the EVAP purge valve. If the purge valve is stuck open it can let fuel vapors into the engine while the engine is off, essentially flooding the engine.  However, if any of those are the culprit, you would most likely have a Check Engine Light on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:35:02.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3442" CreationDate="2012-05-07T16:28:24.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, the legality depends on your location, as well as type of refrigerant used in the system.  R-12 is only available to professionals, where as R-134a is available at your parts store.  If for some reason that R-134a is not available in your area, that would be a good indication that it is illegal there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is alot harder to answer as it depends on your specific vehicle, as well as how the previous compressor failed.  If the compressor clutch failed (this would be the pulley and engagement mechanism at the front of the compressor), then you would only need to replace the compressor, and either the receiver/dryer or accumulator (you will only have one of these).  I would also recommend you replace the orifice tube if your system has one, simply because it is an inexpensive part that can become clogged.  Note that replacing the orifice tube is optional. You could also skip flushing the system and would not need to install an aftermarket filter (I don't like them anyway as they introduce more places for leaks to develop,but they do serve a purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compressor was failing internally, it likely dumped a significant amount of debris into the system and this is where your headache starts.  I will break up the repair depending of the type of system you have; either receiver/dryer and expansion valve, or accumulator and orifice tube.  Note that for both systems, replacement of the condenser may be required as some designs have proven difficult/impossible to properly flush.  Unfortunately, that needs to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.  If your system was still functional before you removed the compressor, that could be a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Receiver/dryer and expansion valve:  The parts would include compressor, receiver/dryer, mandatory flush(es), possibly the condenser, and possibly a filter.  The replacement of the expansion valve can be necessary also.  In this type of system, the receiver/dryer is between the compressor and the expansion valve, and therefore will catch some of the debris.  Note about the flushes:  You would want to disconnect the expansion valve before flushing as you do not want to get debris inside it.  That would make it stop working and require replacement.  When you are disconnecting the expansion valve, if you see debris, then the likelihood of needing replacement goes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accumulator and orifice tube:  The parts would include compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, mandatory flush(es), possibly the condenser, and possibly a filter. In this type of system, the orifice tube will become clogged with debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note for both types of systems:  There are some vehicle specific kits that have all of the o-rings needed for your system(and the some extras).  I would recommend trying to find one of these for your vehicle.  Also, don't forget that the compressor and receiver/dryer or accumulator store oil and that oil must be replenished in the new system WITH THE PROPER TYPE AND QUANTITY or your new compressor will die due to a lack of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can get the needed refrigerant, there are still some tools you likely don't have.  The first would be a vacuum pump.  That is used to pull moisture from the system before charging it as any moisture will cause system failure.  One of the reasons for replacing the receiver/dryer or accumulator is because they contain desiccant which removes moisture from the system.  I have seen systems recharged without pulling the vacuum first, but I won't recommend it.  Also, some of the fittings require rather large wrenches so check those sizes as well.  You may also need flare-nut wrenches for the expansion valve fittings.  The A/C system  is not the place for channel-locks, vise-grips, or pipe wrenches and if the fittings look corroded, removal can be difficult.  Finally, an air-compressor would go along ways towards blowing out any debris in the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For parts replacement, since the system does not have any pressure on it, if you can change an alternator and water pump, and have access to the above needed tools,  this should be okay for you to attempt.  Follow the directions for the flush, and replace all o-rings on any fitting that you touch.  Also, if any fitting looks like it has been leaking a bit of oil, replace those o-rings as well.  Once you get the system put back together, you can take it somewhere for the final charging and leak testing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still reading after all of that, as a previous ASE Master Tech, I never liked doing AC work because of all of the things that may be wrong.  I didn't like taking an estimate to the customer that was full of what may be wrong with the vehicle, but at the same time, you couldn't price in all of the maybe's because you would price yourself out of the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, if your system still had freon in it, I should point out that the intentional venting of CFC's and HCFC's  during the maintenance, service, repair, or disposal of air-conditioning or refrigeration equipment is a violation of federal law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T16:28:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3451" CreationDate="2012-05-07T16:36:07.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First guess, bad spark plug wires.  You can check by first, doing a visual inspection of the wires, looking for burn spots, particularly if the wire was touching/rubbing on something.  Second, on a dry night, crank the engine and lightly mist the wires with a spray bottle of water.  You will be looking for a spark to ground and you may also hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, it could be the coil shorting out, bad ignition module, and the list goes on.  Information about the check engine light status, codes stored, etc. would also help with the diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T16:36:07.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-08T03:12:14.353" Score="2" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my 09 Malibu used and was given only one set of keys.  I've lost them and now the dealership is telling me it will cost about $900 to replace them because the lock system was installed aftermarket and they have to replace it also.  Any suggestions about a way to do this cheaper?  I don't have ignition key, door key or key fob.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T23:48:20.697" Title="Replacing keys for 09 Malibu" Tags="|key|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3422" CreationDate="2012-05-08T10:09:53.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat UK support have confirmed that the car &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; included in the recall and four new injectors will be replaced free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T10:09:53.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2012-05-08T12:15:27.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a one of the big locksmith companies in town, I'd try them.  There's a number of options that may be available to them that might not be to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T12:15:27.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2012-05-08T12:25:27.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your blade inserts are the same style as my MR2 uses, you may just be trying too hard.  My dealer doesn't carry the blade inserts for my car, but they have longer versions and I just cut off the non-locking side to fit...  I think the longer ones cost about 10 cents more, but I don't feel too bad about the lost 20 cents since I waste more than that in the vending machine at work.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T12:25:27.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3461" CreationDate="2012-05-08T14:57:56.160" Score="4" ViewCount="9383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda 6 and recently purchased the OBD 2 module and saw the check engine light with the PS0128 Error Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleared the error to see if it recurs and several days later it has not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it recur if it was not just a random false positive or does my clearing it clear it for good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get my car checked out? If so what should I ask them to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps: The engine temperature gauge is fine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T16:00:57.510" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T16:00:57.510" Title="What should I do about PS0128 &quot;Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)&quot; error code?" Tags="|mazda|obd-ii|p0128|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2012-05-08T15:43:42.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearing out the error shouldn't clear it out for good. If the problem persists you should see the error code come back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have already checked it out, but here is some info on your error code: &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-II-Code-P0128&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T15:43:42.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2012-05-08T16:31:28.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Tim suggests, clearing the code doesn't solve the problem if it's not a random positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The engine temperature gauge is fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the information that you've provided so far (and using Tim's link as a reference), it seems likely that you have either a bad &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/engine-coolant-temperature-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine coolant temperature sensor&lt;/a&gt;.  The implication from your PS is that the car is, in fact, reaching operating temperature just fine (so the &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/thermostat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thermostat&lt;/a&gt; must be working properly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had said that the car was fine at highway speeds but overheating in city driving (or other abnormal temperature ranges), I'd be inclined to suggest that the thermostat is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, it is worth noting the caveat on &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/engine-coolant-temperature-sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RepairPal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An engine coolant temperature sensor code is not always caused by a&#xA;  defective sensor. It can be triggered by a defective thermostat,&#xA;  defective wiring, rusty coolant, or an overheating engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after all of the above, it's not impossible that your coolant is just full of goop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T16:31:28.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-09T00:05:51.970" Score="5" ViewCount="8280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 1985 Suzuki gs300l. When I put gas in the tank it immediately started pouring out the drain tube that is connected to the air box. What is wrong and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-03-31T20:19:39.400" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T20:19:39.400" Title="Fuel leaking out of drain tube" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|leak|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2012-05-09T15:15:27.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there another dealership close by? I would get a second opinion on the price. Also, when you ask them, don't tell them you lost all of the keys. Just say you need a spare and you don't have your main key with you. Sadly they may jack up the price if they know you are in a bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T15:15:27.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2012-05-09T16:05:05.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards a bad thermostat.  They gunk up and fail over time (usually on the &quot;too cold&quot; side).  My experience with factory coolant temp gauges is that they're pretty much useless.  My experiences show that the coolant temp can be a good 20 degrees (F) off of normal and the factory gauge will still sit in almost exactly the same spot as if the temperature was normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T16:05:05.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3467" CreationDate="2012-05-09T21:27:12.170" Score="1" ViewCount="2324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently driving a Honda Hornet 250 CC (because it's the engine size limit on a provisional license in New Zealand). Once I get my full license I want to get something bigger, possibly a Honda Hornet 900 CC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does increasing the engine size by more than three times mean I use three times as much fuel? I'm pretty sure this isn't the case but I don't know what the real answer is or why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="206" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T18:30:38.303" Title="Fuel usage change from 250 CC to 900 CC" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3466" CreationDate="2012-05-10T05:02:33.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on many factors, such as modernity of the engine, whether it is fuel-injected or carburetted, gearing set-up, driving style, preferred mode of operation (city, or motorway/rural).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar conditions my FI 250cc Suzuki TU gets twice better economy than my father’s carburetted 800cc Kawasaki Vulcan (2.8 L/100 km v. 5.4 L/100 km). Weight is probably the biggest factor. In my example the displacement goes up more than threefold, but the weight of motorcycle with rider only goes from 235 kg (150 kg bike + 85 kg rider and gear) to 340 kg (245 + 95) — only 40% increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the city I much rather prefer my nible standard, but for the sustained motorway journeys bigger bike would do a lot better (and shall get better economy in comparison to city riding, as my small bike’s RPM get too high going close to 90–100 km/h and up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check specific models’ real-world fuel economy, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;browse all motorcycles&lt;/a&gt; at Fuelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-26T23:30:23.570" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T23:30:23.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3470" CreationDate="2012-05-10T15:45:19.193" Score="1" ViewCount="6154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque app to look at my fuel economy and see that it shows a whopping 37 MPG for my Mazda 6, 2005 (2.3 Automatic). This seems fishy as some random googling shows the US Gov rates it at less at around 23.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else had some experience with the torque app? can you confirm that its in accurate?&#xA;Also where does the inaccuracy lie, the ECU or the App?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T15:25:36.603" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T04:44:59.297" Title="Torque App Mileage reliability?" Tags="|obd-ii|mazda|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2012-05-10T16:47:32.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to the Torque app, but in my experience the US Gov ratings are typically quite a bit lower than what you can expect to get in actual &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; driving (Gov ratings seem to be based around someone that does 15mph+ over the speed limit all the time, launches from every stop light, does full-throttle passing, and doesn't see red lights until they have to stand on the brakes to make them).  So, it's not entirely impossible, but you're getting even better indicated than I would expect given that.  Definitely time to compare with actual measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T16:47:32.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2012-05-11T16:18:47.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TRB Special Report 286&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trb.org/Main/Blurbs/157125.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2006 report&lt;/a&gt; (free PDF) by Transportation Research Board of National Academy of Science in response to request of the U.S. Congress concludes that there is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; evidence that any marginal trade off in traction (possibly necessary to achieve lower rolling resistance) would make significant difference in safety, and as long as tyre conforms to UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading) system (grade A wet traction rating for most passenger cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing with tread wear. Two tyres of comparable UTQG wear rating, would get comparable mileage within the same operating conditions. As long ratings are similar, and reduced rolling resistance clearly achieved not by reducing initial tread depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given those two being equal in comparing to regular tyre, and average mileage driven, at the low estimate of 1% fuel economy improvement (6 U.S. gallons per year), automobilist should see his extra investment returned within first year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the average driver seeking replacement tyres it makes sense to go after LRR ones, provided same UTQG ratings (or similar international standards). A lot of OEMs already use those tyres at the factory (including popular models, e.g. 2010 Ford Fusion), so direct replacements should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information on rolling resistance is not (yet) required to be explicitly stated on the tyre or its packaging but should be easily available via spec sheet through the dealer or manufacturer (roughly, 10% improvement in RR translates in 1–2% improvement in fuel-economy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, proper tyre inflation and maintenance are still important as ever both for safety and fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional Information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on RR specification. TireRack.com &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tech article&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Rolling Resistance Force is measured in pounds or kilograms of resistance. Comparing Rolling Resistance Force provides a direct way to compare tires of the same size, as well as offers an accurate means of comparing differently sized tires to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire Rolling Resistance Coefficient is calculated by dividing the measured rolling resistance force by the tire size’s prescribed load during the test. Comparing Rolling Resistance Coefficients only allows comparing tires within a single size. Tire Rolling Resistance Coefficient does not allow comparing different sized tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General tips on tyre maintenance, and how to read sidewall markings (including UTQG ratings) could be found in NHTSA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/brochure.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tyre safety brochure&lt;/a&gt;. For some general information on recent advances in tyre technology see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.economist.com/node/15009201?story_id=15009201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; from “The Economist”. See Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-rolling_resistance_tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article on LRR tyres&lt;/a&gt; for more information and some tyre ratings from Consumer Reports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T21:10:06.087" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:10:06.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1398" CreationDate="2012-05-11T20:24:13.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some preliminary research:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peugeot specifically &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peugeot.com/en/innovation/engines/hdi-fap-engines/hdi-fap-and-the-environment.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;allows 30% blend&lt;/a&gt;. Article on green-car-guide.com &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-car-guide.com/peugeot-308-on-30-uk-biodiesel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;claims&lt;/a&gt; that all Peugeot &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HDi&lt;/a&gt; engines (since 1998) can use UK B30 blend without modifications. That also means same for other customers using PSA (Peugeot Citroën S.A.) diesels (Ford and Volvo in Europe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VW UK issued &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/assets/common/pdf/general/biodiesel.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a statement&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) in March 2010, saying that no VW vehicles approved for use with FAME (Fatty Acid Ethyl Ester) B30 (models with DPF allowed up to 7% biodiesel), and few models allowed with some limitations (nothing below -10°C, for instance) to run on 100% RME (Rapeseed Methyl Ester). Those allowed were often build compatible, but couple required retrofitting kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VW says 100% RME fuel cannot be used on common-rail injection systems, but I have read &lt;a href=&quot;http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/419605551/m/4057066943&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;people had success&lt;/a&gt; with variety of commercial and home-brew Bosch CR injection on vehicles like 2004–6 (pre-DPF) Mercedes 320 CDI I6 engines (same injection system used on many diesel vehicles), although Mercedes specifically warns not to put anything over B5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to DPF-equipped vehicles with urea dispensers. Officially, it seems that at least Germans do not support B30 without modifications, but from hearsay I do not see definite proof, at least for PSA motors with manufacturer’s blessing, that those people who do have problems with B30 is not an exception (Perhaps, they have used poor quality fuel?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not see many complaints about actual shearing engine wear, just issues with DPF contamination, and problems with seals in components of high-pressure fuel systems (rail, pump, filter etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial fleets seem to jump on biodiesel quite eagerly, even where DPFs are mandated. 20% common in US, 30% in Europe and many manufacturers of big rigs (Mercedes, MAN, DAF, Scania etc.) qualify many or some engines for 100% as well. But I do not know what modifications those engines undergo to accept higher biodiesel blends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T20:29:21.943" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T20:29:21.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-12T07:07:37.577" Score="2" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seemed like the most suitable SE site, I do apologize if this shouldn't go here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are digital speedometer readings (for things like average speed calculations, etc) typically calculated - i.e. how accurate are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there is some 'play' in the dial-reading of speed to cater for other factors. With my car (Seat Exeo - just a rebadged 2007 Audi A4, basically), when the speedo is reading 54mph, if I set the cruise control and reset my avg speed computer, it reads a constant 50mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would this value be calculated? I assume it's not GPS, as that would stop it from working should I not have a signal (tunnels, etc?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T07:56:08.957" Title="How are digital speedometer readings typically calculated?" Tags="|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-14T06:13:26.970" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people say that a car engine gets accustomed to the driver style and in particular to specific RPM gear changing and it will perform into those &quot;learned&quot; parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must mention that I am &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; speaking of the first 1000 km of car, the grinding period (called &quot;rodaj&quot; in Romanian).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion this is a myth, as an engine and the gearbox are designed and build to stand specific RPMs and to make internal combustion at specific rates per minute and there is no AI component to it, that can learn and adapt in any way. Is just a machine and a pretty plain one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the experts are saying on the matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1798" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T06:00:03.720" Title="how a car engine can get accustomed on some behavior?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3476" CreationDate="2012-05-14T07:02:07.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In older cars with carburettors driving a car gently and never exceeding certain revs could cause some jets to become clogged causing the car to run poorly at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear and friction will also be different at different RPM due to the forces involved.  A piston is pushed down with a weaker force at lower revs and therefore wears differently from one that is driven at higher revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer cars can actually &quot;learn&quot; how you drive and adapt the ECU parameters to that.  VAG DSG gearboxes now have a controller that &quot;Learns&quot; the way you are driving and changes the way the gears should change - i.e. faster more aggressive driving will change the revs at which the gear change would happen..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T07:02:07.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3480" CreationDate="2012-05-14T07:27:47.807" Score="1" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Honda CB Unicorn 150cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last day I had to ride my bike through water, after which none of the electricals were working. Only Head lamp will work while the engine is on. After when I removed and connected spark plug, The issue was solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I had to drive through water again, and the same problem. I tried to reconnect spark plug and fuse. But this time this doesn't works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was water in the box which contains filter , which I removed the water and checked everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self start, horn, indicator nothing is working. Battery is fully charged. &#xA;The alarm which is directly connected with battery is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please Help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1238" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T09:13:49.453" Title="Honda Unicorn Electricals Problem due to water" Tags="|electrical|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3473" CreationDate="2012-05-14T07:56:08.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed is very simply calculated from number of rotations of the axle multiplied by the circumference of the tyre. All that onboard computer then does is then divide by time to get average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T07:56:08.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3478" CreationDate="2012-05-14T09:13:49.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is the bike? &#xA;how deep was the water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be that the HT lead is grounding through the head instead of arcing through the plug due to moisture - my ducati monster had an issue in the rain where the forward cylinder would stop firing because water had got into the plug cap.  You can normally unscrew the plug cap from the HT Lead, clean it, then dry it.  When refitting put a small amount of di-electric grease around the join where the cap meets the lead to make sure that no more water gets in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T09:13:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3486" CreationDate="2012-05-14T11:10:41.313" Score="5" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2012 VW Jetta TDI.  The dealer asked me to do a 2,000 mile check-up to make sure everything is within tolerances.  At the check-up the service representative said my key-chain was too heavy and if I planned to keep the car for long I should reduce weight on the key-chain to keep from damaging the ignition.  I only have six other keys, a hook and two small plastic electronic computer devices on the single key ring.  It doesn't seem excessive at all compared to the usual key rings you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, do new car ignitions still wear out due to key-ring weight?  To me this seemed like the kind of advice that might have once been true and is dispensed long after it is no longer the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T20:59:50.470" Title="Can a heavy key-chain damage your ignition?" Tags="|vw|ignition|key|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4781" CreationDate="2012-05-14T12:04:20.690" Score="2" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/faq&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; and it does really seem clear to me if I can ask this or not... so I give it a go anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Volvo V70N, 2002 &quot;Jubileums modell&quot; with the premium sound package. That include the HU603 stereo, which I would like to upgrade with an iPhone connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions, how do I do that? Do you know about any good tutorials that might help me, preferably photo-tutorials?&#xA;Also, which connector is best for connecting an iPhone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1800" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T15:35:27.697" Title="Upgrading the V70's HU603 with iPhone support" Tags="|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-14T14:36:10.980" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2006 Highlander. Whenever we take it for regular servicing, the service technician recommends some items not specified in the maintenance manual. We told him that and he said it is common for the maintenance manual to not indicate all the items needed. For example, he recommends PCV valve replacement and fuel injection service which is not there in the manual. What recommendation should we follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T23:29:53.457" Title="Follow Maintenance Manual or Service technician recommendations?" Tags="|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-14T16:33:04.857" Score="5" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone can shed light on an issue we are having with this particular bike. Basically, the bike starts fine cold and warms up and drives perfectly for about 15 minutes ( responsive to throttle, idles great) . But, after this time period the bike then seems to run lean and then will barely start. Any throttle applied after it falls into this condition stalls the engine. If you let the bike cool off, it will again be perfectly operational. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We took the carb completely apart and cleaned it. Everything looks good inside - floats look like they are working etc. We opened the gas lid to activate vacuum, no response. Can anyone throw some recommendations at us? I'd be happy to post a video of the the bike operating if needed. Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1801" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T10:26:18.513" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T14:48:27.940" Title="XJ600 1994 Seca 2" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2012-05-14T16:47:22.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont think you have much to worry about honestly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be more worried about the plastic link between the metal key and the plastic key fob breaking. (I have a TDi as well - a 2001.) My keys are heavy and have a lot of stuff, and i've never had an issue with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? Sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely? No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1681" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T16:47:22.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2012-05-14T20:07:13.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the dealer has seen a lot of older Jettas coming in with worn ignitions and that or maybe one extreme case that justifies his warning. I would put this information in the &quot;it is possible catagory&quot;.If you kept the car long enough it might become a problem,in a scenario where with a single key the ignition switch would last 250,000 miles put with several keys it will only last 200,000.Six keys doesn't seem excessive to me.In the grand scheme are you going to have the car long enough for it to be a problem for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T20:07:13.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-15T01:16:45.897" Score="3" ViewCount="3428" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brake pedal requires a further distance to push than it used to.  This is not to say it's harder to actually apply the brake; it's just that when I apply the brake, the pedal goes further back than it used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is an adjustment usually; I think you can adjust the pedal directly?  Or is there an alternative approach?  Is it difficult to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I verified that the brake fluid is at the maximum level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T17:13:38.407" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T21:06:44.533" Title="Brake Pedal Requires More Distance to Push" Tags="|brakes|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3489" CreationDate="2012-05-15T11:34:41.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a possible partial brake master cylinder failure.  I had that happen where one set of seals blew out and it was essentially in &quot;emergency backup mode&quot;.  Took awhile to figure it out, we were playing with the pedal, bleeding the calipers, etc before we ended up at the master cylinder...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T11:34:41.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2012-05-15T19:33:46.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is not starting it means there could be three reasons&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. low petrol&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. battery low&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. some fault in starter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If battery is low, push your car upto 5 to 10 km/h with holding the clutch and in 2nd gear. When you have speed, leave the clutch and step on the accelerator. The engine will start easily or else u want to change the battery or recharge it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol block means You will have a plug switch. It will look like we can pull it little bit it will be in driver seat near by steering wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weather not be means give ignition by scrolling the key to start position and keep on stamping the accelerator for a min and then give start it will start, if not means you want to give service to workshop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1808" LastEditorUserId="1539" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T15:52:31.517" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T15:52:31.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-15T20:06:03.883" Score="2" ViewCount="3236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6 (1MZ-FE) with about 129,000 miles on it. Recently, I noticed a ticking that seems to be loudest at the end of the front valve cover, on the opposite side of the timing belt. It's not terribly loud, but it's obvious with the hood up. It seems a lot quieter even slightly above idle, but it may just be being masked by other noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should be worried about right away? What further steps should I take to track this down and fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1805" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T18:56:43.527" Title="Lifter tick—safe to ignore short-term? What to do about it?" Tags="|engine|toyota|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3489" CreationDate="2012-05-15T21:06:44.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you had the rear brake shoes checked lately?They may be worn or out of adjustment.Although they are supposed to be self adjusting they often require a manual adjustment between services.If this occured over a short period of time is it possible that someone drove it with the park brake engaged?This would wear the rear shoes and cause a long pedal stroke.Activate the parking brake and see if it will hold.If not the shoes may be out of adjustment or worn down.If you can do so safely,jack up the rear of the vehicle put it on stands and have someone apply the brake.Try to rotate the rear tire with the brakes applied to see if they are grabbing at all.If you can rotate the tire the brake system needs service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T21:06:44.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3515" CreationDate="2012-05-15T21:06:46.470" Score="6" ViewCount="2881" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (a 2008 Scion tC) says to have its oil changed every 5K miles or 5 months. I just took a new job and commute into the city by bus so I'm driving a whole lot less. I was told that if I got full synthetic oil on my next oil change, I could simply wait for 5K miles before my next change and forget about the whole 5 months. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1809" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T11:48:47.317" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:52:03.367" Title="Synthetic Oil and oil change frequency" Tags="|oil|scheduled-maintenance|oil-change|scion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3493" CreationDate="2012-05-15T23:12:21.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, unexpected engine ticks/clicks are typically due to low oil level, therefore I recommend checking the oil immediately. If that was your problem, you will want to track down why your oil was so low to begin with: either your leaking, burning, or someone didn't quite fill it up enough at the last oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your oil level is fine, however, then it sounds like you have a damaged lifter. I would recommend fixing this, as improper valve lash can lead to drastic performance issues, and eventually could cause a catastrophic failure. You could 'spot fix' the culprit, but honestly with one failing, I'd consider them all suspect. My personal path would be the rebuild the entire cylinder head (it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a 10 year old vehicle) but you could get away with just replacing all your lifters. If the head has solid lifters in it, however, then a replacement will require a rebuild either way, in order to set the lash appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T23:12:21.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T02:46:32.970" Score="4" ViewCount="6167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 prius with around 125000 miles.  my mileage dropped about a year ago.  I had the fuel jets cleaned, but it didn't really make a difference. the dealer shop said it probably was the ethanol. I decided to experiment and see if the higher octane gas would help.  I filled it up last friday and topped it off today.  I had been getting around 39-42mpg.  when I topped it off today, I got 60mpg.  now I've been reading that the higher octane could damage the car.  is this true?  I've also read that the higher octane doesn't increase the mpg, but it certainly seems to have improved mine.  should I or shouldn't I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T14:55:12.900" Title="2007 prius premium gas or not?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2012-05-16T09:37:48.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any proof that higher octane fuel damages engines, although running a lower octane can, as it will cause detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What octane rating do Toyota specify? I know a lot of Japanese performance cars are designed to run on the higher octane fuels (97-99 RON / 92-95 AKI) that are more common there than in a lot of other countries, but most normal cars are designed to run on regular 95 RON (90 AKI). If you've been running on a lower octane fuel then you will be getting less power and poorer economy than designed, as the engine will have adjusted itself to prevent detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of 'premium' fuels also have other additives and chemicals in them that can help clean the engine, and so some people recommend running a tankful of premium every so often for that reason - I've never tried it personally though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T09:37:48.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3500" CreationDate="2012-05-16T09:39:32.960" Score="3" ViewCount="6303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2011 Yamaha FZ 16 bike; which has an open chain; occasionally dirt gets accumulated to the chain and despite my many attempts I am unable to properly clean the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also could you also help me on how to lubricate the chain of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1284" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:11:10.000" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:11:10.000" Title="What is the correct way to clean and lubricate the chain of a Yamaha FZ 16?" Tags="|motorcycle|cleaning|lubrication|chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3499" CreationDate="2012-05-16T10:54:48.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put the bike up on a rear stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean the chain - use a degreaser designed for the purpose and a stiff nylon brush, wash a few bits at a time spinning the wheel to access more portions of the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse off the degreaser &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a water repellent to get rid of the water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dry off with a rag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a good quality chain lube in a spray (there are different types based on the conditions you ride in i.e. wet, hot, cold, sandy/dusty) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe off excess with a clean rag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found my chain to be substanstially cleaner and require less maintenance once I fitted a scottoiler (other chain oilers are available) than when I didnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T10:54:48.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2012-05-16T11:45:27.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the dealer shop said it probably was the ethanol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Common_ethanol_fuel_mixtures.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What mixture are we talking about?&lt;/a&gt;  It is true that the energy density of an ethanol mix is less than you'll see from a pure gasoline fuel.  If you look carefully at the labels on the pump, it may be that your regular fuel is labelled as containing ethanol but the premium is not.  In a purely isolated experimental setup, you could expect to see better mileage from higher energy fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: a human driving on roads with other vehicles is a terrible experimental device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;now I've been reading that the higher octane could damage the car. is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have plenty of discussion on this point but summary is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/39/what-are-the-benefits-of-premium-high-octane-petrol&quot;&gt;probably not in the short run&lt;/a&gt;.  Over a period of 100,000 miles, there might be a measurable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've also read that the higher octane doesn't increase the mpg, but it certainly seems to have improved mine. should I or shouldn't I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is well into the realm of: it's your car, you have to make the call.  If you are truly seeing a 50% increase in mileage, that's pretty hard to argue with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T14:27:46.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3466" CreationDate="2012-05-16T13:11:52.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By physics yes, the cylinder capacity get increased by 3 times, so more fuel is required on each revolution/cycle (each time the piston goes down and fill the cavity of the cylinder with the mix of petrol and air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By mechanics, not necessarily, both motorbikes must have the exact same configuration in order to the physics to be applicable. Both motorbikes must have the same gearbox and ratio, wheel size and cylinders and weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually 125cc and 250cc are motorbikes designed with economy in mind while bigger motorbikes are designed with performance in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience a 900cc will be more expensive to run in the city or at low speed, but for some long journeys it will be close to the cost of running a 250cc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is not that big at the end of the day if you give the motorbike the right use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T13:11:52.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T14:40:05.953" Score="1" ViewCount="3320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 honda pilot and have been dealing with a water leak in the roof for over a month now. My mechanic has replaced the windshield twice, thinking that it was a bad seal. He now thinks that it might be a leak in the sunroof, specifically he thinks that it might be one of the drains from the sunroof being broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water itself shows up between the driver side window and the windshield, just above the airbag compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this is a likely explanation? Are there other things that I should have him look at first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1812" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T17:50:05.200" Title="Water leak in roof of 2007 honda pilot" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T16:46:15.453" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading a discussion about different HID lamps and I was wondering why would you use HID lamps in the first place?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it for fuel/energy efficiency?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it for their higher brightness?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Color of light?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They cost quit a bit!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To make it clear, I don't see why one would spend that much money to replace their headlights with HID lights. I want to know what people usually want to achieve when they do this. Do they want to have brighter more focused lights? or they want to conserve fuel/energy and improve their MPG? or they just want to be cool?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my opinion this is not an open ended discussion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1756" LastEditorUserId="1756" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T00:30:41.313" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T00:30:41.313" Title="What is the point of HID lamps?" Tags="|hid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3504" CreationDate="2012-05-16T17:50:12.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensity_discharge_lamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;High-intensity discharge (HID) lamps make more visible light per unit&#xA;  of electric power consumed than fluorescent and incandescent lamps&#xA;  since a greater proportion of their radiation is visible light in&#xA;  contrast to heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T17:50:12.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3503" CreationDate="2012-05-16T19:36:23.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any Honda experience, but on my Mitsubishi I have that exact problem.  There's a primary seal around the sunroof to keep water from getting into the sunroof recess.  There's also a drain system inside the recess to drain out water that gets past the seal.  It started leaking right where you say, and it was due to the drainage tubes being kinked/cracked and leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope yours is easier to fix than mine.  In mine the drain tubes go into the shell of the car, between some basically inaccessible (without cutting the shell open) parts.  I ended up using the black RTV gasket maker to just seal the sunroof shut and keep water from seeping down to the drains to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T19:36:23.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3508" CreationDate="2012-05-16T22:21:49.937" Score="2" ViewCount="3549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda CRV which is parked on a very very slight hill, nose up. There is a small puddle just inside of the rear-left wheel that smells like gasoline. When I crawl up under I can see some slightly damp parts, but no origin for the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car had the gas tank filled earlier today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the incline is enough to bring a leak from the front all the way to the rear, or even a few feet down the chassis before dripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where the leak would be coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="291" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T22:27:58.637" Title="leak in rear-left of 1998 Honda CRV" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2012-05-16T23:15:04.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas tanks are usually in the rear, and when you fill them to the brim they can leak out of the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evaporation system ports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel fill hose joints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Out of the gas cap if it expands enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tank itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What side is your fuel door on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T23:15:04.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T23:49:30.520" Score="6" ViewCount="101885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2878/1536&quot;&gt;recently replaced&lt;/a&gt; the downstream O2 sensor in my Toyota Camry. Shortly thereafter, the check engine like came on again providing the following codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1135&lt;/strong&gt; which I understand to be the upstream sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1155&lt;/strong&gt; is a little bit tougher for me to find any information on, but it appears to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtcdecode.com/P1115/Toyota&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit for Coolant Heat Storage System&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to making these types of repairs, I'm a novice but am interested in resolving these issues on my own if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone know if &lt;strong&gt;P1135&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;P1155&lt;/strong&gt; are related?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, will replacing the O2 sensor resolve both codes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T12:14:20.357" Title="How do I resolve error code P1135 in my Toyota Camry?" Tags="|toyota|cel|o2-sensor|p1135|p1155|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2012-05-17T08:39:31.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of the filler pipe. I had a '93 Volkswagen Polo on which that pipe rusted through, leading to the same symptoms you mention - it ran behind the wing in such a way that the gap filled with mud and trapped moisture against the pipe, causing it to corrode prematurely. A lot of cars also incorporate a rubber hose as part of either filler or evaporation pipes, which can perish and leak - a slight leak from a perishing hose can be very difficult to locate as there is often no visible hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the fuel evaporates, you may well find it will leave a white crystalline deposit behind, which may help with locating the source of the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T08:39:31.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3512" CreationDate="2012-05-17T11:57:02.920" Score="11" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anybody please tell me how to measure the mileage of my Pulsar 180 bike accurately?  I have tried by emptying my tank.  I failed miserably, and I had to take my bike walking long distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1814" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:33:42.717" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:33:42.717" Title="Pulsar 180 - How Can I Measure the Mileage?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3511" CreationDate="2012-05-17T12:18:06.450" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3394/57&quot;&gt;over here&lt;/a&gt;, mileage calculations are pretty easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your tank. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive a well-known standard route. For example, my commute is almost always the same from day to day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive to gas station and re-fill the tank. Note amount filled and cost. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the total miles driven from steps 1 - 3 and divide by the number of gallons filled in step 3. That's your miles per gallon (bigger is better). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the total miles driven from steps 1 - 3 and divide by the cash paid in step 3. That's your miles per dollar (bigger is better). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 1-5 until you feel like you have a good data set. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T12:18:06.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3511" CreationDate="2012-05-17T12:53:23.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a simple idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive till you hit reserve then reset your trip (you need not fill petrol&#xA;immediately while reserve).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill petrol and note the price and quantity and turn the knob from&#xA;reserve to main position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you hit the next reserve check the distance travelled in the trip meter and divide the number with the quantity of petrol you filled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T10:00:15.883" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T10:00:15.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2012-05-17T14:03:15.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both codes look to be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engine-light-help.com/toyota-check-engine-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.engine-light-help.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the sensor may fix the issue, but as pointed out in the answer to your previous question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is not always the sensor that goes bad. Sensors read the mixture and efficiency of your combustion, and can trigger a code if you are running rich/lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2880/1554&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2880/1554&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional information:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/2t7kr-2002-toyota-sienna-obd-code-fuel-sensor-circuit-bank-sensor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_sensor_for_an_OBD2_Code_error_P1155_for_a_Toyota_Sienna_2001._How_do_you_change_it_and_what_is_the_effect_if_you_do_not_change_it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wiki.answers.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T21:06:33.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3495" CreationDate="2012-05-17T19:29:53.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The synthetic oil should last longer without degrading, so if you are doing less miles this should safely extend the oil change period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your garage that you get the correct synthetic oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T19:29:53.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3495" CreationDate="2012-05-17T21:52:03.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it really depends.  If you live in an area that can get into lower temperatures (way below freezing) it'd be wise to get lighter oil put in by winter time, and thicker oil by summer time.  If the climate is relatively stable this isn't as much of a concern.  This is a case where, not necessarily 5 months, but bi-yearly would be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do end up driving your car be sure it can get up to normal operating temperatures.  Otherwise the water (and whatever else) that has collected with the oil in't removed and can lead to oil sludge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:52:03.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-18T00:59:35.207" Score="4" ViewCount="13618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricating your chain is certainly one of the easiest maintainance tasks for a motorcycle owner, however I frequently wonder how necessary it really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any negative effects which can come from never lubricating the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:10:32.420" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:10:32.420" Title="is motorcycle chain lubrication absolutely necessary?" Tags="|motorcycle|chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3522" CreationDate="2012-05-18T01:41:16.507" Score="2" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;They gave me a &quot;kit&quot; and a &quot;harness&quot; in addition to the radio. I'm at the knowledge level where I don't know what that means, but I'm assuming the harness holds it in place and the kit involves the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So-- doable, or go to the mechanic? I'm not bad with electronics or anything; I've just never done any carwork before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I was just looking at the wires that they sold me with it (adapter, I think?), and it's got a nice standard-looking plug on one end but a bunch of loose wires on the other, leading me to think this requires electrical tape or something a little more gritty than the average joe is prepared to do. True/false?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1631" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T01:49:33.293" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T08:49:17.203" Title="I bought a new radio. How difficult would it be for an amateur to install?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3517" CreationDate="2012-05-18T02:46:47.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain is not lubricated it will wear prematurely.The chain does not stretch but grows in length as the pins and barrels wear.This has the effect of changing the distance between the rollers.As the chain grows it will no longer match the pitch of the drive sprockets, the sprockets will wear out prematurely.If you then change the chain it will be worn by the old sprockets. What all this means is oil the chain to make it last longer.Change the chain when it is worn to make the sprockets last longer.You can measure the chain wear by putting a ruler at any point on the chain use the end of a link or the center of a pin.Look at a point 12 inches away you should be at the same point ,pin center etc.Up to 12-1/8 is ok when you get to 12-1/4 it time to replace the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2014-02-08T12:35:18.993" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T12:35:18.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-18T03:51:43.407" Score="1" ViewCount="22823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 2006 Mercedes e350, passed it's Mercedes certified check up a week ago so it's electrical should all be in working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last couple days I noticed the volume of the sound system randomly rises/falls in odd cycles. It fades up and down, sometimes almost inaudible, other times way too loud. Adjusting the volume when it drops/rises just means the next &quot;cycle&quot; will be even more inaudible/ear splitting. It's happened consistently for the last two days; best I can recall it never happened before then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not accidentally hitting the volume buttons on the wheel and the volume knob on the main console stays firm. Both the buttons and the knob work fine, and I've reset the sound system to default settings a few times. There's no other settings (that I can tell or saw &#xA;in the manual) that would affect my sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem has been with playing CDs, the Radio and the Aux input jack, so it's all sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T13:18:22.190" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T16:55:35.670" Title="Sound system volume fades in/out erratically" Tags="|electrical|audio|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2012-05-18T08:03:27.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the right harness (the bunch of wires) for your car this can be really straightforward. The stock stereo is set up to plug straight into the wiring, but as all stereos are different the harness basically acts as an adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have labels, or an instruction diagram showing which wires need to connect to what.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield&lt;/a&gt; provide a vast range of diagrams and info if you don't have this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on it being a permanent install, you could solder the wires, but generally people use screw terminal blocks, which allow it to be disassembled easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SkkNU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T08:03:27.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2012-05-18T08:49:17.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most, if not all, new radios come with an ISO standard connection on the back. Quite a lot of modern cars also have ISO connections - if this is the case with yours, it is an easy 5-minute job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old radio - often the hardest bit!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit the cage that comes with the new one, bending the triangular tabs out slightly to secure it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug in the new radio to the ISO power and speaker plugs, and the co-axial aerial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully push the new radio into place, ensuring the wires don't get trapped. It should clip into the cage once it is fully in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pop the old radio and the removal tools for the new one in the box and stick in a safe place (Don't lose the removal tools!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an ISO connection in the car, you shouild be able to buy a ready-made adapter instead - simply a short bunch of cables with an ISO connector on one end to go into the radio, and a manufacturer's plug on the other end to go into the car. Simply use this in step 3, no soldering or complicated wiring needed at all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such adapters should be available in any high-street car accessory shop, such as Halfords in the UK, or may be part of the kit and harness you got at the same time as the radio - Did they ask you at the time what your car was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T08:49:17.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-18T14:29:02.260" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I have a cover for my Alfa 156 pollen filter? I'm getting a small leak though it when it rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1818" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T22:10:33.863" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:10:33.863" Title="Alfa 156 pollen filter leak" Tags="|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-18T15:21:03.070" Score="6" ViewCount="3104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got Xenon headlights and my car has a feature which automatically turns the headlights on at night. Currently I'm hesitant to use the auto-on feature because the headlights turn on when I start the car in the garage or park in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know flicking on/off lightbulbs harm them in general, and I don't want to burn out the expensive bulbs. However HID bulbs don't have filaments if I read correctly, so I don't know if they'll burn out for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights come on unnecessarily about twice a day if I enable the auto-headlight feature. Will this significantly impact the life of the bulbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T16:57:05.413" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T21:42:26.360" Title="Does repeated turning on/off Xenon HID headlights harm them?" Tags="|headlight|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3535" CreationDate="2012-05-18T20:17:48.447" Score="1" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a used saab and I need to determine the Trim for Amazon.com's car maintenance section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of it: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcVVn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know how to determine the Trim.  Amazon wants to know if its a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.3t&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to think it is the 2.3t from the Model being : 9-55D2.3LPT4CYL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its stock number is 1312&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:03:06.177" Title="Determine Trim on a Saab 9-5" Tags="|saab|9-5|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2012-05-19T08:39:19.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Induction service should not be confused with injector service. Induction service is the cleaning of the air induction/intake side with seafoam, water or eve better steam. Injector service on the other hand, is cleaning of deposits from the fuel injector, either using an additive in the gas tank(less effective for driveability problems, more of a preventive measure) or direct injection of a suitable injector cleaner into the fuel rail (a intermediate fix for driveability problems). If the injectors are clogged, the only viable solution is to remove the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned in a professional rig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1820" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T08:39:19.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-20T09:40:13.000" Score="3" ViewCount="8277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2008 Euro Civic Type-R which has almost the same engine as the US Civic Si (K20Z3 vs K20Z4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a bit of time I have a really annoying high pitched noise coming from the engine. It's constantly present, completely tied to revs, and persists when clutch is disengaged (so it's not coming from the gearbox). It sounds a bit like an electric motor from a radio-controlled toy car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About six months ago (maybe a year) the sound could not be heard inside the cabin when cruising unless windows were open, but started being heard when opening the windows, especially in an underground parking lot. I brought it to the dealer who said it was normal engine noise, and that &quot;fixing&quot; it would require a new engine (quotes meaning that it was, to him, not requiring being fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is stronger now as I can hear it in the cabin when cruising with windows closed, to the point of being distractive, if not painful on long journeys, so I don't really buy it that this is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THe car is completely stock. I'm running on 0w40 oil, am regularly pushing the car but have always respected warm up time, and since I bought the car new, did (to the best of my knowledge) proper break-in. FWIW the K20 engine has a chain transmission and an accessory belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?&amp;amp;v=nbv1poQIOC8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video recording&lt;/a&gt; where I rev at a standstill, with clutch disengaged (watch in 720p HD for clearer sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T02:12:55.407" Title="Possible causes of this Honda Civic K20 engine whine/hiss?" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3537" CreationDate="2012-05-20T19:52:30.660" Score="3" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Ford Escort that was bought used 2 years ago. When we bought it, it would barely run, and we had to replace the engine head. As a result of that and other repairs, it has been losing coolant slowly. I do not know what was causing the loss, the engine oil was not discolored and there were no puddles under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently on a long trip I began experiencing strange behavior. When traveling at 70 mph it ran as usual. At around 50-60 mph, however, it felt like a cylinder was out. I continued to drive it for about 80 miles (which I now regret) trying to maintain speed on the interstate. However, with slower traffic and hills it eventually lost all power and I was forced to come to a stop and get a tow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it was towed home I put around a gallon of coolant/water in it, so I think it overheated (I forgot to check the thermometer at the time). The car started in order to drive onto the tow truck's bed. It does not start now, however (it turns over and is very rough but does not start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just finished checking the timing belt in case it was something easy to fix, but it is timed correctly. Might look into the distributor and spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it did overheat, my understanding is that the engine is most likely destroyed (warped and damaged). Could someone correct me if this is wrong? Also, what are some other things I should check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1825" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T03:15:32.253" Title="1994 Ford Escort won't start" Tags="|engine|ford|starting|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3532" CreationDate="2012-05-20T21:51:55.373" Score="2" ViewCount="38846" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2011 Toyota has 15,000 miles on it. I just got its oil changed, and the new place that I took it to told me that I NEED synthetic oil 0W-20 (so they put in &quot;Castrol Edge 0W-20&quot;). But they also told me that I only need to get the oil changed every 10,000 miles. The built-in oil reminder in the car reminds you to get new oil every 5,000 miles though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So who is right: my car, or the mechanic? Is it safe to replace the oil after 10,000 miles? Thanks in advance for your advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T23:26:01.207" Title="Oil in 2011 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|oil-change|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3531" CreationDate="2012-05-20T22:33:54.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers specifications are the ultimate authority.  It does seem like you can go 10,000 miles between changes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/maintenance/synthetic-motor-oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;with synthetic oil&lt;/a&gt;.  As long as the Castrol oil you've got is up to the same standard as Toyoto Synthetic, you're probably good for 10,000 miles.  As to whether you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; synthetic, if Toyota says you should or must use synthetic, you need it.  Otherwise, you don't, especially if you drove it off the lot with conventional oil from the factory.  Check your owner's manual (I just took a look at a PDF excerpt from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/owners-manuals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota&lt;/a&gt;, I see no mention of synthetic oil being required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if it was my car and I planned on keeping it for many years, I'd use synthetic oil and change it ever 10,000 miles or so.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-20T22:48:00.950" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T22:48:00.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-20T23:15:46.350" Score="4" ViewCount="11354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my clutch replaced and a new battery put in. Within a month my regulator/rectifier burnt out of it. So, I purchased a new one. After 2 weeks that one burned out also. I replaced the stator, the battery again, and the wiring harness. Now, this is my 3 regulator/rectifier that had burnt out on me. After the second one, I was told to have it mounted outside of the frame. That only lasted a week and it had burnt out again. Everything I purchased was brand new, so I was wondering if someone could help me find out the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1827" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T03:34:32.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:34:32.023" Title="1999 gsxr 600 - What is wrong when my regulator keeps burning out?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|gsxr|rectifier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-27T04:23:58.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3525" CreationDate="2012-05-20T23:23:52.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to jot down your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIN&lt;/a&gt; number and plug it into a VIN decoder (check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/models/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saabnet.com&lt;/a&gt; for starters).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T23:23:52.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2012-05-20T23:29:53.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take Timo's advice.  If it 'aint broke, don't fix it.  If it's not a scheduled service item, don't mess with it unless you've actually got a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T23:29:53.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2012-05-21T02:45:22.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first things I check in a &quot;won't start&quot; situation are fuel and spark.  You can check for fuel pressure with a test gauge the fuel pressure test port.  You can verify spark at each cylinder with an inline spark plug tester.  That's the easy stuff, it gets a little more complicated after that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the check engine light on?  The engine is turning over, right, just not starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it did overheat, you could have mild to severe engine damage depending on how hot it was and for how long.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechdb.com/index.php/Ford_CVH_engines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CVH_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CVH&lt;/a&gt; is an iron block with an aluminum head.  A warped head would be one possibility, you could have also killed the piston rings, melted a piston or damaged the block.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burning coolant is a sign of a bad head gasket.  Maybe it has been bad since the head was replaced? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get it to start, you'll find out how badly damaged it is.  I suppose you can't damage it any further than you already have trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T03:15:32.253" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T03:15:32.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3564" CreationDate="2012-05-21T03:34:51.247" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;When should you grease a door hinge?  When it's dry or when it starts making noise?  Is there a universally appropriate type of grease to use?  How should it be applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T13:04:14.510" Title="Squeaky door gets the grease?" Tags="|lubrication|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2012-05-21T05:37:35.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;[answer in progress]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons regulators burn out is overheating. That is why people put it outside the frame on some bikes to get better airflow around them, and out of the cooker. However, given that you had done that, it must be other reason. I would suspect connections, but then again, you had replaced the harness (seems a bit rash, replacing major parts willy-nilly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here is something about regulator ground (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/53530-voltage-regulator-rectifier.html#post569306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fireblades.org&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with rectifiers, and in my experience why the burn out, is the lack of a good ground to the battery. The back of the regulator is metal and is supposed to ground against the frame. After a year or two, the aluminum gets a layer of oxidation on it that makes the gound very weak. The rectifier, which uses the ground to determine battery voltage, thinks the battery is low and over charges in an attempt to get things back to normal. This usually burns out the reg or battery or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a ground wire to one of the bolts on the reg with a big round wire end that contacts the back of the reg almost always fixes the problem. As long as the system isn't too damaged. The over heating in the system also often causes the connector plug between the reg and the stator to go bad as well, so be sure to check it for melting or bad wires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Here is another possible issue — surges or shorts in high-voltage ignition system that can fry components of low-voltage system (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/95/1764&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9/burned-regulator-rectifier&quot;&gt;Suzuki GSXR600 (K7) - Burned regulator/rectifier&lt;/a&gt; question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T18:07:20.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3543" CreationDate="2012-05-21T07:44:39.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1077" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I check if these trucks are OBD2 compatibile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trucks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mercedes Atego, type 818 [Daimler 970.21]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Man, type 8.113&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are compatible with this protocol can you tell me where can I find that connectors in the truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:28:51.933" Title="OBD2 protocol in trucks" Tags="|obd-ii|mercedes-benz|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3538" CreationDate="2012-05-21T10:48:05.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want to grease before it squeeks.If you wait until it is squeeking you have metal on metal contact somewhere in the hinge.That kind of contact results in hinge wear.As a side note an unlubricated hinge requires more effort to close the door and that can resultin broken armrests or door pulls.I generally lube the drivers door every other oil change and the other doors,hood and trunk once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T10:48:05.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3541" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:28:51.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your simplest approach to find out if any vehicles have OBD2 is to look at the manufacturer's website, speak to your service centre or read the manual. These will also tell you where the connectors are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:28:51.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="447" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:39:30.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually get 220km per tank at about a 80kmh average start to stop including 100kmph of 30kms on the freeway everyday.  i do 500km a week. run a pipe and porting on an otherwise standad bike PX200.  I recon at 60kmph and taking things easy I would get about 300km on the tank but that would be a long ride...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:39:30.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3882" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:44:52.687" Score="6" ViewCount="2494" Body="&lt;p&gt;In another forum someone said &quot;Screen down the fillneck may be partialy plugged up with matter.&quot;  Is this something a neophyte can change or fix himself, or should I take it to an auto shop? How can I get to this screen to see if it is clogged or blocked? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1830" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T21:01:30.927" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T19:20:21.050" Title="2010 Toyota Corolla - pumping gas - the gas pump kicks off constantally" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3552" CreationDate="2012-05-21T16:44:13.993" Score="3" ViewCount="8566" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car: BMW '90 E30 320i Cabrio with the six-cylinder M20 engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: the red engine oil warning light inside the instrument cluster (not the check control) lights up after some driving. But the engine sounds and works just fine. Turning off the engine and restarting causes the light to go off. But it comes again after some cruising. I cannot say for sure but it seems like this happens rather on hot days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the engine oil changed about 6 weeks ago but to be honest I didn't pay enough attention and I'm not sure which grade the mechanic put in. The problem with the warning light started about two weeks ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BMW is a weekend driver and does not get moved daily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the most likely cause for this problem? Oil pressure sensor? Motor oil too thin? Something more serious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T16:33:18.553" Title="BMW E30 M20 oil warning light goes on on hot days but the motor sounds and performs fine" Tags="|engine|oil|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3631" CreationDate="2012-05-21T17:18:37.633" Score="4" ViewCount="4939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Taurus 2004 Sedan SES DOHC. (The car is actually in the shop right now and I told him to hold off until I get more info.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took the car to the local shop to get the spark plugs replaced. Because of the location of the rear spark plugs lots of parts have to come off the engine before they can be accessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week later the check engine light came on. He just did the $100 diagnostic and says he didn't find anything. The error code is &lt;a href=&quot;http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/esicont/en/srvc/html/BHE010202200W05.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P2270&lt;/a&gt; for the HO2S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: How likely is it that during the spark plugs (and steering fluid flush) that they did something that caused this? OR is it completely unrelated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since I posted I OKed him to replace the sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side issue, unlike the dealer, he doesn't have the $100 diagnostic fee go towards the work being done - so I am up to &lt;strong&gt;$260&lt;/strong&gt; for replacing a sensor! Am I getting ripped off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="1831" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T22:21:22.433" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T03:42:25.987" Title="O2 Sensor Error after replacing spark plugs?" Tags="|maintenance|ford|cel|sparkplugs|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3554" CreationDate="2012-05-21T18:46:46.617" Score="6" ViewCount="4017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a used Honda Goldwing. Researching the prices, my budget will allow me to get something in the range up to year '95-96 models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is going to be my first bike, I have no idea for what common problems/bad signals I should look for while deciding on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the most expensive to replace/fix things, which can be &quot;hidden&quot; during the sale? What are the average life span of different key components, which need to be replaced after some amount of use (like the timing belt in cars, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, that the usual advise is to go with something much smaller as a beginner, but this is not an answer for my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T06:23:18.263" Title="What problems to look for when buying used motorcycle" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3546" CreationDate="2012-05-21T19:32:59.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have probably already done this, but check your oil levels or you may end up with a seized engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;red engine oil&quot; light is a a warning that oil pressure is too low, which is usually caused by lack of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brian Knoblauch in the comments below points out that a faulty oil pump can also cause the oil pressure to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="406" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T16:33:18.553" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T16:33:18.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3551" CreationDate="2012-05-22T13:54:11.200" Score="1" ViewCount="8006" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screw sockets for the license plates on my car have some rust in them due to a rusty screw. If possible I'd like to clean out the rust from the screw sockets when I replace the screws, but I'm not sure if/how I can do that without risk of damaging the paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a major problem (the screw goes in and seems tight enough) but if possible I'd like to clean them up. If there's no way to do it without harming the pain I just won't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T14:36:24.363" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T20:16:39.653" Title="How can I remove rust from a screw thread without harming paint?" Tags="|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3550" CreationDate="2012-05-22T14:15:16.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and you should.  Rust is always bad and it sounds like you have a relatively easy job.  Remember, if you have rust, you don't have paint.  If you're careful, there shouldn't be any effect on the paint surrounding the threaded hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of cleaning the threads out, you're going to need an abrasive to remove the rust and then a tool to remove any debris.  If you'd like to start gently, I'd recommend something like a white toothpaste (not gel!) applied to the threads of the screw.  Work the screw in and out a few times to grind your minty freshness into the threads.  Now, if you spin a thin pipecleaner in the threaded hole, you should be able to get out a bunch of dirty toothpaste along with some portion of the rust.  Repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you feel that you've removed the rust that's going to come off, I'd recommend switching to vinyl plate screws.  They hold just fine and certainly won't rust on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T14:15:16.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3546" CreationDate="2012-05-22T14:40:19.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other people have already pointed out, the warning light is the oil pressure warning light so you really need to get to the bottom of this, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; if the light comes on at any other engine speed than idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the culprits - especially if the problem started shortly after an oil change - could be (in decreasing order of likelyhood):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil viscosity. If whoever changed the oil just poured 5W30 in because that's what they have on the shelf and it's cheap, that's most likely the wrong oil viscosity. In those engines I would put at least 10W40 in, if you're in a hot climate you might want to go with a higher viscosity. Actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerdoc.com/parts-finder/bmw/oil-filter-m20/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; recommends 20W50 for an M20, which is a recommendation I've heard before. If that's what's supposed to be in the engine and it's got 5W30 in it, that can certainly trigger the low oil pressure warning light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap crappy oil filter, or they &quot;forgot&quot; to change the oil filter. Either can cause an oil pressure drop that can show up at idle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sender bad. If it was a Fiat, Alfa or Ferrari that would be my guess :). In this case, it's a bit more unlikely but it happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall wear on the engine or the oil pump getting worn is resulting in low oil pressure. Only way to determine that with reasonable certainty is to use a properly calibrated oil pressure gauge - your mechanic of least distrust should be able to check this for you for very little money. It's probably worth doing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T14:40:19.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-22T16:01:33.690" Score="2" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into adding Class 1 trailer hitch to 1999 Ford Escort wagon (NA 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; generation (1997–1999)). I had checked several NA manufacturers (such as Curt, U-Haul etc.), none of them offer a hitch for that generation of Escort wagons (but do offer ones for sedans and ZX2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, there are hitches for 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; generation (1991–1996) Escort wagons (same as those for sedans and hatchbacks). And it looks like rear parts of 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; and 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; gen. wagons are nigh identical (one can search for more images to compare):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qiw1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; alt=&quot;Second generation Escort Wagon&quot; title=&quot;Second generation Escort Wagon&quot; /&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFqy2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;350&quot; alt=&quot;Third generation Escort Wagon&quot; title=&quot;Third generation Escort Wagon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Escort_%28North_America%29#Third_generation_.281997.E2.80.932002.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; does not explicitly confirms that, but states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Escort wagon largely retained the same body style, gaining only the new interior, front end &amp;amp; fascia, side-view mirrors, door handles, badging, and slightly restyled taillamps &amp;amp; reflectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any confirmation that I can use hitches for older Escort on a new wagon (that is, if body panel stamping remained the same)? Or what and how do I measure under the car to see what exact dimensions I need to confirm to see what hitch I can use? Also, where do I find what type of wiring harness connections Ford used in both generations to see if I can use older T-harnesses as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T05:22:55.207" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T07:12:47.250" Title="Trailer hitch for third gen. (1997–1999) NA Ford Escort wagon" Tags="|ford|towing|escort|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3548" CreationDate="2012-05-22T17:52:57.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To some extent, the answers will be dependent on model you are looking at, the amount and types of customization that have gone into the bike, and the amount and type of actual use it's experienced. If it's been to the track (probably not an issue with touring bikes or cruisers, but certainly possible with sportbikes), wear and tear on the drive train will have been much heavier. On the flip side, a bike that has only 1000 miles on it in 5 years could have problems with corrosion or bad fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, check for &lt;strong&gt;legal problems&lt;/strong&gt;. Get the VIN number and have it checked (I believe there are free online services these days) to make sure the title is clear and not a salvage, i.e. it is not stolen, has no liens you don't know about, and was not wrecked. This may not be as big of an issue with Goldwings, but very important for newer motorcycles, sportbikes, and Harleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you should consult &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html&quot;&gt;http://www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html&lt;/a&gt; to see if any &lt;strong&gt;recalls&lt;/strong&gt; have been issued for the bike or its parts and that any repairs or replacements have been done. Sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcreports.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.mcreports.com/&lt;/a&gt; may also be helpful in researching the quirks of particular models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, I would see if I could obtain the &lt;strong&gt;manufacturer-recommended maintenance schedule&lt;/strong&gt; (from the owner's manual) for the model and year you're interested in. It will provide the official guidance as to when various parts and systems should be checked, adjusted, and/or replaced. You can then inquire with the current owner as to if and when such maintenance was performed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all things to do before you even set eyes on the bike. For the actual meeting, you can consult &lt;strong&gt;checklists&lt;/strong&gt; such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html&quot;&gt;http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html&lt;/a&gt; . That guide is particularly thorough, but it only takes a few seconds to check fluid levels and clarity (coolant, oil and brake, and on some bikes clutch/transmission), chain tension and cleanliness, tire health, and brake pad thickness; or to ask the owner about the last oil change, coolant change, or clutch cable adjustment. If something is amiss here, other more serious maintenance may have been neglected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1320" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T17:52:57.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3524" CreationDate="2012-05-22T18:17:33.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert, but I have the same setup in my car. I had to install a capacitor to give the HIDs constant power so they wouldn't get power at 60Hz. However, they do turn on and off once in a while, say going through a tunnel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had a single issue with them in the last 2 years - since they were installed. As long as they have proper power when they're needed, I don't think it's a big deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T18:17:33.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3560" CreationDate="2012-05-22T21:29:06.447" Score="4" ViewCount="4710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my car for 1 month and 2,000 miles now and my wheels, which were once very shiny chrome, now look like I painted them gray because the brake dust is so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second of all, how long is it safe to leave it on the car without cleaning the wheels? I'm worried that it will start to corrode the wheels but I don't want to have to wash them every two weeks unless it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T05:03:37.443" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T05:03:37.443" Title="Will brake dust corrode my wheels?" Tags="|brakes|cleaning|dodge|viper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3556" CreationDate="2012-05-22T22:39:39.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake dust will always be a problem with your current pads.When it is due for a brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned change the pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be hosed off.Then apply a polish for wheels.JC whitney at one time offered a brake shield that mounted between the rotor and the wheel to keep the dust off the wheel.They were not very pretty but they did work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T22:39:39.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2012-05-22T23:27:25.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested, you need to put a flat head screw driver near the back edge of the lens and gently pry it off. Then you should be able to pull the lens out of the housing to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRPv4aVg9b8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRPv4aVg9b8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastEditorUserId="1836" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T00:31:36.833" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T00:31:36.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1838" CreationDate="2012-05-22T23:55:00.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are the same tail light except the SE-R tail lights have black surrounding the lights behind the lens instead of chrome like the regular models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T23:55:00.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3556" CreationDate="2012-05-23T00:33:36.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue,&#xA;  or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a&#xA;  dealer for months before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you're always going to have brake dust.  A lot?  It's hard to say.  You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Second of all, how long is it safe to leave it on the car without cleaning the wheels? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, brake dust will corrode your wheels over time but not very much per day.  Mine are 125K miles old and they don't look new but they don't look bad.  You're going to have to find a balance between your need for shine and the fact that you have to go to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm worried that it will start to corrode the wheels but I don't want to have to wash them every two weeks unless it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I do: spray the wheels (stock WRX wheels) with Simple Green before washing the car.  Rinse off the wheels when I'm done washing the car.  Wipe off spots where the dust has pooled while washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your product selection and procedure may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T00:33:36.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3550" CreationDate="2012-05-23T00:58:10.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have to worry about removing the rust from the nut if you are going to replace the screw. If the new screw won't screw into the nut because of rust run a tap through the nut to clear out any rust and dirt (this is assuming that the nut has machine threads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best preventative maintenance is to replace the bolt with a stainless steel license plate bolt that wont rust and put some anti-seize on the threads of the bolt before screwing it back in. There is no easy way to keep an inside of a nut from rusting. Even if you sandblasted and painted the nut, the paint would come off as soon as you screwed the bolt back in and it would start rusting again. The idea with the anti-seize is to prevent the bolt from rusting to the nut to the point where you can't get it back out. It will also help prevent water from getting in between the nut and the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-copper-anti-seize-lubricant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T20:16:39.653" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T20:16:39.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="158" CreationDate="2012-05-23T02:12:41.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an old pioneer super tuner 3 and I thought about doing the same thing you were talking about in the original post, so that's what I did.  I popped the case open, tracked down the connectors for the head to the pcb, and it was pretty much a no-brainer as to which wires to use. You have ground, then you have power for the right and power for the left, so I soldered leads onto the pins that I thought were right and soldered the other end to a headphone jack and voila.  The only problem that needs worked out is that I rigged the mechanism to think there was a tape in there and it's stuck on fast forward, but the audio still comes through. The bass is a bit nasty. I'm not sure if it's picking up noise from the motor spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1837" LastEditorUserId="569" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T21:03:34.347" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:03:34.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2012-05-23T13:01:38.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably something you should take the car to a shop for. It sounds like a problem with the evaporative emissions system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tank is a completely sealed system and when you are pumping gas it needs a way to vent the gas fumes from then tank because the gas flowing in pushes the fumes out. There are vent lines and solenoids that run to a charcoal canister which is usually in the front of the car. If there is something wrong with one of these solenoids or the charcoal canister itself it, will prevent the fumes from escaping and could cause the problem you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T13:01:38.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3538" CreationDate="2012-05-23T13:04:14.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would grease the door hinges once or twice a year. When it comes to grease, having too much is never a bad thing other than the fact that it makes a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best type of grease to use is white lithium grease because it is thick and will not run out of the door hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply it just spray it in the gaps between the door part of the hinge and the body part of the hinge and open and close the door to work the grease into the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T13:04:14.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-23T23:47:49.097" Score="2" ViewCount="12368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1999 toyota corolla with over 170K miles, and I've had my fair share of problems over the years.  Currently, I have this problem that my car seems to hesitate accelerating when I first start it.  It seems like it wants to idle out.  I've only noticed this problem in the past few weeks or so.  Nothing significant has happened in the past month to cause it, like an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone (not a mechanic) told me that the problem may be the transmission, and may be related to the way I shift my car into drive.  Admittedly, I don't always depress the button to shift from park into drive and just forcibly push it down without pressing the button.  I don't think it can cause a problem in the transmission, much less this problem of my car trying to idle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1838" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T17:32:41.203" Title="Why is my car hesitating to accelerate only when I first start my car?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2012-05-24T05:32:49.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potential savings from reduced idling should greatly outweigh any increased wear and tear on starting and charging systems. I &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3428/1764&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; similar question about idling before (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1772/1764&quot;&gt;Is idling bad for your engine?&lt;/a&gt;). To summarise the negative effects of idling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel combustion is incomplete, which leads to contamination of combustion chamber (glazing), spark plugs (wich reduces their effectiveness), exhaust system (including catalytic converter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor does not operate at optimal temperature, which leads to excessive condensation of water vapour in exhaust system, which leads to its corrosion (ergo premature replacement), and increased emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time cost of wear and tear is low (American governmental agencies routinely cite $10 added per year). Roughly, it means if one would expect to replace the starter at 10–12 years normally, now one would do it at 8–10 (I pulled these numbers out of me arse, but they seem reasonable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quantify fuel savings we need to consider savings from reduced idling, and savings from avoided performance losses. Research paper from Vanderbilt University (Amanda R. Carrico et al, “Costly myths: An analysis of idling beliefs and behavior in personal motor vehicles.”) based on the survey of 1300 U.S. residents estimates that on average Americans spend about 16 minutes a day idling (4 minutes warming, 4 minutes waiting, 8 minutes in traffic). Possibly, in more compact European or South African municipalities these numbers could be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us say we cut American number by about 60% and save around 6 minutes a day. 2.0L 4-cylinder petrol engine burns around 1 litre per hour idling. 6 × 365 / 60 = 36.5 hours/year, or 36.5 litres/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduced efficiency can cost even more. If a car is driven 1500 km (930 miles) a month or 18000 km (11100 miles) a year, and consumes on average 9L/100 km (2.0L compact), 5% reduction in efficiency leads to 0.05 (18000 / 100 × 9) = 81 litres per year extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So average Golf-class 2.0L 4-cylinder compact can consume extra ~120 litres (31 U.S. gallons) every year due to excessive idling. Multiply that by the price of petrol, and see potential savings on the fuel alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T05:32:49.357" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3517" CreationDate="2012-05-24T06:48:12.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lack of lubrication does lead to premature chain and sprocket wear, and loss of drivetrain efficiency. However, more important consideration in this case is safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Safety&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely essential to keep the chain cleaned and lubricated to prevent &lt;em&gt;catastrophic failure&lt;/em&gt; that at best would result in snapped chain, and at worst can lead to binding and locking of drivetrain, &lt;em&gt;which could lead to injury, death, and/or engine damage&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This informative article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on chain maintenance&lt;/a&gt; states in regard of the chain failure due to drying out or other wear of the link seals (most modern chains are internally lubricated, but require external cleaning and lubrication as well, to keep seals fresh and reduce friction and heat generation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seal(s) retaining the lubrication for one or more rollers fails. Typical causes include: abrasion (such as sand rubbing between the seal and one of the plates); &lt;em&gt;friction (heat generated by inadequate lubrication external to the seals as the plates rub against them)&lt;/em&gt;; weathering and age (seal dries out, cracks), or other stresses (such as chemical exposure to naphtha or other harsh chemicals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary way to keep this kind of failure from occurring is to keep the chain (and thus the seals) free of sand, dirt and other contaminants via regular cleaning, and &lt;em&gt;to keep it lubricated appropriately externally as well (to minimize the friction at the seal/plate interface, and to help keep the seals in good shape)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wear and Efficiency&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above advice about keeping the chain drive clean and lubricated applies to the general prevention of premature wear, and maintaining the efficiency. Even if the chain was to be thoroughly cleaned, there is no way to prevent its contamination with dust, sand, mud, salt, water, road grime and other abrasive or corrosive substances, thus some sort of protection is still necessary. And there are still moving parts in contact (rollers, and plates with each other; both with the sprockets) that create additional friction and heat if not lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency of a chain drive is a complicated beast. The studies of various aspects of it are few and far between. The most commonly cited one is the British experiment from 1930s which measured efficiency of a non-sealed bicycle chain in an oil bath under a constant power, and found it to be over 98%. However, such are the ideal conditions and rarely apply in real world (chain drive sealed inside the motor is one of few such situations). Moreover, the real efficiency is affected by the temperature (sealed-ring chains perform much better when warmed up as the grease inside becomes less viscous), speed (at, high speeds, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF02915918?LI=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this publication&lt;/a&gt; states, “the transmission efficiency can be as low as 85% due to inertial tension”), uneven power application, and other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most authoritative sources still insist that lack of lubrication (external, as well as internal) decreases efficiency, and lifespan of the chain, &lt;em&gt;ceteris paribus&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:53:12.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2012-05-24T07:27:54.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common fault on variable-vane turbos (which I'm not sure whether the 1.4 has) is hitting limp mode due to overboosting. This can happen if a turbo has had an easy life around town and is coked up, then you suddenly ask it for some performance down the motorway or similar. However, this doesn't normally come with any kind of smoke so I don't think this is your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it sounds more like some kind of boost leak, a lot of VW platform cars suffer worn joints on various bits of intercooler pipework (the locking &quot;knuckles&quot; get worn down by natural vibration of the pipes and then when the turbo pressure builds up, it can pop one of these joins off). This wouldn't fix itself though, so again, I don't think this is your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only things I can think of are that either you have some kind of split hose which is opening up under a combination of heat and pressure (i.e. when the engine is warm) enough to cause a boost leak, or that something's going on with your EGR valve and it's not allowing enough airflow through (the black smoke is usually a sign that your engine is getting too much diesel and not enough air to mix it with, which is why it's a common symptom of boost leaks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably be worth you trying to find someone in your area with the VW diagnostics tool VAGCOM (or the newest version, VCDS). This will allow you to find out if the ECU has any fault codes stored which could take you straight to the problem, and will also allow the operator to perform various troubleshooting procedures (logging output of sensors etc) to find out what's happening. Check out any local VW/Audi/SEAT/Skoda forums (they're all the same cars underneath) and you'll often find someone willing to help out for the price of a couple of beers, much cheaper than taking it to your VW dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1839" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T07:27:54.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2012-05-24T15:05:17.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the Power steering pump/fluid level? I own a 2003 stream and heard a slightly heavier whining noise similarly tied to engine speed. You could try turning the steering end to end while engine is idling and listen. In my case it turned out to be a defective power steering hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1840" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T15:05:17.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-24T18:08:47.633" Score="3" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Buick Rainier (6 cyllinder).  I just found out the 4th bank ignition coil is bad.  Seems easy enough just looking at it (I just replaced a few of the spark plugs a few nights ago with no problem).  How exactly do I replace the coil? It seems as easy as detaching the coil, and swapping it out with a new one.  Is the correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T12:54:20.667" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T12:54:20.667" Title="2004 Buick Rainier Ignition Coil Replacement" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3575" CreationDate="2012-05-24T21:01:19.577" Score="34" ViewCount="424846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up flushing the coolant twice yearly. In the Spring, you drain the antifreeze and fill with straight water for the summer. In the Fall, you drain the water and put in a 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard (from an auto store clerk) that running just water will cause overheating. The clerk also said that antifreeze prevents corrosion and sediment build up and cleans the coolant system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite years of using water in the summer, I have never experienced any problems that were obviously related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to start using antifreeze, even in the summer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T17:17:19.413" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T13:34:13.663" Title="Running with straight water as coolant in the summer. Is it fine?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:05:56.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not buy a bit about overheating except, mayhaps, severe service or a lot of stop and go traffic (meself, if I have to top off with water in the summer, I do so), but I would worry about corrosion and sediment. Distilled water would take care of the latter, but for the former I would use some sort of protective product, even if for the peace of mind alone. Either summer coolant or some anti-corrosive additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T22:11:56.823" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T22:11:56.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3577" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:12:38.180" Score="6" ViewCount="4233" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2004 Chrysler Sebring, the air only works when turned up to maximum power. At any of the 3 levels below that, no air comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, when the heat is on, it only blows hot air while the engine is revving. When I release the gas, I can start to feel the air gradually cool down (especially at stop lights). This was not much fun in the winter - I haven't tested yet to see if the AC works the same way now that it's warm out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this, and would the parts be expensive and labor time-consuming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T06:11:49.527" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T06:11:49.527" Title="Heat only works when engine is revving and at full power" Tags="|ac|chrysler|heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:21:42.323" Score="39" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard (from an auto store clerk) that running just water will cause overheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's not true.  Water isn't the cause of overheating.  Your coolant mixture (of whatever proportion) and radiator &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Automotive_and_internal_combustion_engine_use&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;work together to get rid of the heat&lt;/a&gt;.  If it's not hot, you won't overheat.  However, when it is hot, the coolant can only absorb heat up to its boiling point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a super high level summary of a cooling system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cool coolant is placed in contact with the metal of the hot engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat is transferred from the metal of the engine to the liquid coolant, heating it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot coolant is pumped to the radiator, making room for cooler coolant to move into the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot coolant is placed in contact with the metal of the cool radiator, cooling it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid cooling requires the best contact possible between the metal and the liquid for most efficient heat transfer.  Problems occur as the coolant approaches it's boiling point: steam bubbles start to form, especially at hot metal surfaces.  Each one of those bubbles is a less efficient point of heat transfer.  That means less heat leaving the engine, meaning a hotter engine, more spots where bubbles will form, repeating until steam starts coming out of the hood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, one of your main goals in assembling a useful cooling system is to ensure that the boiling point of the coolant is high in order to prevent high temperature disaster.  Water's boiling point is 100 C = 212 F.  Straight ethylene glycol's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol#Current_methods&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;boiling point&lt;/a&gt; is at 197.3 C = 387 F.  Of course, you shouldn't use straight ethylene glycol in the radiator either for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol#Coolant_and_heat_transfer_agent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sake of efficiency&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The clerk also said that antifreeze prevents corrosion and sediment build up and cleans the coolant system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on the product.  Quite a lot of the coolants on today's market will &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Corrosion_Inhibitors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;inhibit corrosion and minimize sediments&lt;/a&gt;.  Some, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Water Wetter&lt;/a&gt;, will actually increase the cooling system's ability to carry away heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Despite years of using water in the summer, I have never experienced any problems that were obviously related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember that lack of evidence doesn't necessarily indicate absence of the phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to start using antifreeze, even in the summer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, it's your car.  You need to make the call.  I can't be bothered to flush out my coolant just to change it from green to clear.  When it's dirty, I flush it, not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: I know that a pressurized radiator system changes the physics from this simple &quot;boiling point and no higher&quot; explanation.  This is a reasonable first-order approximation for the purposes of discussion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: @Paulster2 was kind enough to post a picture of what happens to a water pump when it is run with straight water without the corrosion prevention of coolant + water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPQj0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A rusty-ass water pump vs. a brand new one&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I submit that the one on the left can no longer be considered a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T13:34:13.663" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T13:34:13.663" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:24:21.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use Stoner Invisible Glass wipes (good for inside and outside). However, as mfr suggested, water + soap, rinse, and then microfiber will work just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cleaning solutions will get you 95% of the way there no problem; if you want that extra 5% you need a good microfiber cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T19:32:07.387" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T19:32:07.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3574" CreationDate="2012-05-25T01:36:34.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for the blower only working on max, that screams &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1424405&amp;amp;parttype=6557&amp;amp;partkey=2194770&amp;amp;a=FRc1424405k2194770-2899550&quot;&gt;resistor pack&lt;/a&gt;.  It's usually in the passenger foot well near the blower motor itself.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-sebring-14/blower-motor-resistor-diy-2004-sebring-sedan-8772/&quot;&gt;Sounds like&lt;/a&gt; it's held in by two 8mm bolts in your case.  Shouldn't be too terrible of a job, but you might want to avoid it if you've got back or neck problems.  I usually put the seat back down as far as it will go and lay down facing forward and pull myself up under the dash.  If you've been running the blower exclusively on high for a while, it might be the next thing to go out.  Last time I changed a resistor, the blower worked for a couple days then died.  That was a little more involved, but still doable if you don't mind being upside down in a tight space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the temperature falling off, the two things that come to mind for me are maybe a clogged heater core and / or thermostat.  What are your engine temps like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T01:50:33.743" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T01:50:33.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2012-05-25T02:17:42.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main ingredient in automotive antifreeze, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol&quot;&gt;Ethylene glycol&lt;/a&gt;, has a higher boiling point when mixed with water than water alone.  Wherever you live, I bet it's not Arizona or Texas.  Steam voids suck, you don't want any in your cooling system.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze&quot;&gt;Antifreeze&lt;/a&gt; also contains corrosion inhibitors.  I bet you don't have hard water, either.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T02:17:42.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2012-05-25T02:45:23.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got one coil per spark plug, on or near the plug.  It should be a plug 'n chug operation, yes, just one screw/bolt securing the coil.  There's the usual ton of threads to sort through over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.trailvoy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trailvoy.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T03:47:56.977" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:47:56.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3503" CreationDate="2012-05-25T04:43:32.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some times the sunroof drains can get plugged with leaves or some other debris and then the water starts overflowing into the car. You could try blowing compressed air through the drains and see if it fixes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen where the drain hoses have become detached and let water leak into the car. To check for that would involve pulling down the headliner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T04:43:32.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3548" CreationDate="2012-05-25T13:32:19.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a great video guide for purchasing a used motorcycle: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd8-cEkuB3s&amp;amp;list=PLB4ED5620DEF52F64&amp;amp;index=1&amp;amp;feature=plpp_video&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I also suggest taking a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/94797037/New-Motorcycle-Checklist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;checklist&lt;/a&gt; with you so you can remember what to look for. This checklist doesn't say how to inspect the different parts, you'll want to know those things before you get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1842" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T13:32:19.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-25T15:10:37.300" Score="3" ViewCount="4853" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, I bought a 2005 Volvo S60 for my wife to drive to her job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car had 103,000 miles on the clock, so a few weeks ago, I installed a new timing belt, tensioner, idle pulley, and water pump.  In order to complete the installation, it was necessary to pull the power steering fluid reservoir off to the side to gain the clearance to remove the timing belt.  The timing belt installation was completed without any serious incidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also advised by a mechanic that the car needs to have new lower control arms on the front, as well as new joints.  He said that the joints are &quot;slinging grease&quot;.  I don't even know exactly what he meant by that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inspected the hoses on the power steering fluid reservoir as best I could, but I can't see that it's leaking; I really have not idea how the car is losing its power steering fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have refilled the car's power steering fluid twice in the last week.  What is the best course of action to take to find the problem and get it fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T20:13:56.797" Title="Why is my 2005 Volvo S60 losing its power steering fluid?" Tags="|volvo|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3565" CreationDate="2012-05-25T17:32:41.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this type of issue is usually related to the EGR system - EGR valve starting to fail perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some great videos on YouTube on how to test the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would almost think to check the MAF sensor or IAC valve but the operation of those shouldn't change much as the car warms - the EGR valve might have the clearance to operate through the carbon buildup when it warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1785" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T17:32:41.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2012-05-25T17:36:10.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did he say why you needed new lower control arms? Usually the bushings just need to be replaced not the entire control arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he was talking about the CV joints needing to be replaced, they have seals and rubber boots that cover them. If the rubber boots or seals have cracked due to being old, it could let the grease escape from the CV joint. Then as the CV joint is spinning when you are driving down the road the centrifugal force will force all the grease out of the CV joint and spray it all around the surrounding area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to find the leak would probably be to use one of those leak kits they sell in the auto stores. You pour a UV dye into the reservoir and drive the car for a little while, then you use a UV light to see exactly where the fluid is leaking from. It works very well and makes it very easy to see exactly where the leak is coming from. For a power steering system, it could be your hoses, seals on the steering rack, or seals on the power steering pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T17:36:10.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2012-05-25T20:13:56.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are high that the power steering rack itself is leaking.  Start looking around there.  Doesn't take a big leak, may not be any obvious spots left under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T20:13:56.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3593" CreationDate="2012-05-26T09:07:29.593" Score="3" ViewCount="5863" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my Honda CBR900’s engine is cold, it works only on three cylinders. When the engine begins to warm, all goes fine and all the cylinders begin to work. What can cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-26T23:37:31.477" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:52:36.407" Title="Cold engine works on three out of four cylinders" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|warmup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-26T12:48:35.037" Score="4" ViewCount="4707" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I parked my Jetta ('06 2.5) 2 nights ago, when I went to start it yesterday morning, the starter seems to work fine- turns over, then instead of idling down, it turns off. Must have tried it 5 times yesterday and 2-3 times today, always the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the instrument panel isn't lighting up, I figured it was a fuse. I checked 2 fuse boxes looking for a blown fuse, but none look bad. Because of the IP I'm still quite certain this is electrical. Any recommendations before I call the garage to come check it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T02:12:55.077" Title="Jetta turns off immediately after starting" Tags="|electrical|vw|starting|fuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2870" CreationDate="2012-05-26T13:06:18.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same exact problem. It is the fuel injectors!!! Does the quick acceleration come followed by a clunk? I replaced them and problem totally gone on my 275,000 mile 97 xj&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1846" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T13:06:18.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3553" CreationDate="2012-05-26T16:35:53.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer in progress. So far concerns hitches that has been found to be specifically manufactured for 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; generation Escort wagon. Kudos to commenters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cequent Mfg.&lt;/strong&gt; produces &lt;a href=&quot;http://rtp.fhvg.com/hitchfinder/hitch.php?id=1617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reese Towpower #77078&lt;/a&gt; (also Draw-Tite #24669 and Hidden Hitch #60914) for 1998–1999 wagon. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cequentconsumerproducts.com/assets/PDFs/2012-Reese-Hitch-Application-Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reese Hitch Application Guide&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) lists different hitch (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rtp.fhvg.com/hitchfinder/hitch.php?id=1616&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;#77018&lt;/a&gt;) for 1997 wagon (and sedan) — same hitch that is used for all 1991–1996 Escorts (which probably means that they used up remaining body parts for the new design, then used an updated one from 1998 on). Only difference is that 1997 on uses different wiring kit (Reese #78013 for 1997–1999 wagon, #78058 (standard) or #74665 (t-connector) for sedan and ZX2, #78104 for 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; generation all models).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Curt Manufacturing&lt;/strong&gt; produces &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.curtmfg.com/part/11105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;#11105&lt;/a&gt; (also U-Haul #24668) that fits only first year (1997) of 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; generation wagons (they do not seem to offer a hitch for 1998–1999 wagon, however). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/01resources/appguides/Curt_Hitch_App_Guide.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curt Application Guide&lt;/a&gt; (ZIP) is unclear on which wiring kit to use.&lt;p&gt;They seem to do it differently than Cequent, because this hitch works for both 2&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; and 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; generation sedan (1991–2001, up to 2000 for Mercury Tracer), and for ZX2, in addition to wagon from 1991 to 1997. Whereas Cequent have different hitches for 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; generation sedan/ZX2, and wagon.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-26T16:57:44.043" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T16:57:44.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3596" CreationDate="2012-05-26T20:38:16.283" Score="4" ViewCount="27709" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clamps that are attached to the car battery are corroded, I was told either of these liquids will work.  Which one is better?  Is there a how to guide on the exact steps I need to take?  With my limited knowledge, I know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery (the order of the clamps matters I think?),&#xA; Clean the clamps and ports,&#xA; Wait,&#xA; Reattach battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1848" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T02:57:09.240" Title="Should I use coca cola or baking soda + water to clean my battery clamps?" Tags="|maintenance|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3595" CreationDate="2012-05-26T22:20:24.380" Score="2" ViewCount="10205" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is on a 1998 Chevy Cavalier, automatic transaxle, 2.2L.  This sensor went bad last July and I replaced it then.  When it goes bad, the check engine light comes on and then the temperature gauge on the dashboard doesn't report the temperature (it stays at the bottom/cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It went bad again last week, after which I replaced it.  Drove around a bit and seemed to be running/reporting correctly, but then after about 10 minutes, the temp gauge dropped back to cold and I am back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ECT sensor quits working, the transmission starts shifting hard (I just checked the transmission fluid; Ended up adding about 2 quarts, but it is still shifting hard).  During the ~10 minutes that the sensor was working, the transmission seemed to be shifting properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this type of problem before? Any ideas why the sensor would go bad whenever the outside temp is hot, or comments on the apparent link between the hard shifting and the bad gauge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="887" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:23:59.903" Title="Engine Coolant Temperature sensor goes bad whenever the outside temperature is hot" Tags="|automatic-transmission|coolant|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3594" CreationDate="2012-05-26T22:20:48.983" Score="2" ViewCount="2226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some rags (as I'm sure we all do) that are covered in oil and other various fluids.  Is it alright to wash these in a standard washing machine and then air dry them?  Is there a specific detergent I should use if I wash them at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T00:51:15.727" Title="How to clean/dispose of oily/greasy shop rags?" Tags="|maintenance|oil|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2012-05-26T23:39:53.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer in progress (see comment to the question for clarification questions).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Checking spark plugs and spark&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I would check is condition of the spark plugs and quality of the spark on each cylinder both before and after warm-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take all the ignition wires off the plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the plugs out, and check their condition: look for soot contamination, any difference in glazing, damage to the ceramic insulator and/or evidence of flooding (it would be wet with petrol). Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical-centre/spark-plugs/firing-end/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One by one, check each plug (make sure other plugs are out to avoid starting the motor needlessly) by putting ignition wire on, touching the ground electrode to the engine casing, and cranking it to see the spark. The spark should be nice, big and blue. If it is too weak, or different colour, we might have a culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Safety Note:&lt;/em&gt; checking the spark that way is easy, but be careful not to get shocked (especially, if it could be spark plug wire boot shorting). Shock can be noticeable, but not too dangerous (unless you have heart pacemaker or somesuch) as voltage is high, but amperage is low. If hesitant, best use the special spark testing light (though it shall not rule out any particular bad plug).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one of the plugs has no or poor spark, check this plug on known good wire, and, conversely, check known good plug on that wire to determine whether it is a plug issue, or supply (then we shall be checking wires, distributor and so forth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After thoroughly checking everything out, put everything back on as it were, then warm up the engine (best by actually going somewhere on a short errand if at all drivable), and repeat the steps to see what has changed once it reaches proper operating temperature and starts to work fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to be thorough and cover all the steps so as not to miss any possibility. Check back after it is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T14:48:27.647" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T14:48:27.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3592" CreationDate="2012-05-26T23:55:07.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is to first hand wash/rinse them in a 5 gallon buckets with a strong mix of laundry detergent. This removes most of the heavy oil along with the smell and the grit. Then they go in the washer on hot wash cycle. I then just hang them to dry on a rope in the shed. Using the dryer seems to release some of the waxes and residual oil onto the dryer drum. If the rags seemed really messy I'll run the washer through a cycle empty just to rinse out any leftover dirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T00:51:15.727" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T00:51:15.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2012-05-27T01:45:45.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiring problem?  Unplug the connector and check the pins with a multimeter.  If it looks alive, trace the wiring from the connector as far as you can.  If you're lucky you'll be able to visually see a problem, it not, you'll have to probe the wires until you find the fault.  If it's actually dead at the sensor, are you sure you've got the correct part?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles have two sensors, one going to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powertrain_control_module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;powertrain controller&lt;/a&gt; and the other going to the cluster.  It sounds like you've only got one.  I'd guess the PCM is feeding the gauge cluster.  When the sensor is 'dead', the PCM should command any cooling fans you have on to full power.  When the sensor seems to be working, if you pull the wiring connector, do the fans come on immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the correlation with hard shifting, I'm not sure what's going on there.  Do you have a transmission cooler?  If so, maybe the PCM is altering the shifts since it doesn't know how hot the cooling system is.  If not, maybe you've got a ground problem in your wiring harness and the coolant sensor is sharing it with something in your transmission?  Timo's got the right idea, check the continuity on the pin for the ground wire on the connector for the sensor when the gauge is dead vs when it's working.  It's probably a two wire setup, if so, the black wire should be ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the volt/ohm specs in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4865652_troubleshoot-cavalier-radiator-fan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; are applicable to your vehicle, but it's a start.  The enthusiast forums at &lt;a href=&quot;http://j-body.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;j-body.org&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://clubcav.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clubcav.com&lt;/a&gt; probably have more detailed information.  Hopefully there is a sticky thread or FAQ that covers your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always a Haynes/Chilton manual for wiring diagrams and troubleshooting info, but the ultimate reference would be the factory service manual from &lt;a href=&quot;http://helminc.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helm&lt;/a&gt;, but it looks like yours is $200.  Pricey, but it will have complete wiring diagrams and probably a troubleshooting tree for your situation.  Haynes or Chilton will have similar info, but it will be less detailed as they're trying to cover multiple years and models in one tome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-29T23:07:49.583" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T23:07:49.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2012-05-27T02:06:29.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about a can of battery terminal cleaner?  Should be available at any parts store (aerosol can).  That plus a wire brush has always worked for me.  As far as order of disconnection / connection, ground/black/negative is the first off and last on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try cola or baking soda and water.  They should work, but I suspect no better than a can of terminal cleaner.  The cola will get rid of the corrosion but leave your terminals sticky.  Maybe in an emergency, as Rory suggests, cola.  Be careful with liquids around a battery, a short will ruin your day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T16:30:28.550" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T16:30:28.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3960" CreationDate="2012-05-27T02:26:25.853" Score="6" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that white car paint turns a bit yellowish, but never really saw a convincing evidence or explanation for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it true? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1849" LastActivityDate="2022-08-08T19:58:41.847" Title="Is it true that white car paint will eventually turn yellowish?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3632" CreationDate="2012-05-27T02:38:26.217" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to change the coolant on a '96 B-Body with an LT1 engine.  It's got expired Dex-Cool in it (past the rated 5 year life).  I want to get all the old coolant out in case it has turned to the dark side.  Opening the drain on the radiator will leave some coolant in the block.  I could pull the knock sensors to drain the block, but that will be a pain.  The usual procedure seems to be to take off a hose and run the engine to pump the coolant out, replacing it with water through the overflow tank.  Does I need to keep an eye on the temperature of the water going into the overflow tank?  Is it possible to crack the block if the water is too cold?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T21:57:02.837" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T21:57:02.837" Title="Coolant flush procedure?" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|b-body|lt1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4054" CreationDate="2012-05-27T02:44:50.827" Score="1" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to change the transmission fluid on a '96 B-Body with a 4L60E transmission and an LT1 engine.  The transmission fluid pan does not have a drain plug.  I'd rather not drop the pan unless I have to.  Is it safe to disconnect one of the lines going to the cooler and let the transmission pump the old fluid out in park or neutral?  Is it OK to let it pump all the fluid out or do I need to be adding new fluid while the old is coming out?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T01:50:51.167" Title="4L60E fluid change" Tags="|b-body|lt1|4l60e|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-28T03:26:15.093" Score="10" ViewCount="73023" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife and I have a disagreement about a practice of mine--engine braking. When I'm driving her manual transmission, I make pretty extensive use of the technique, occasionally when approaching an stoplight, but especially (and relevant to this discussion), when going down long steep hills. Tonight I was going down one and even bringing it down to 3rd gear I was still accelerating, so I went down to 2nd, and the car held steady around 45 mph. However, the tach also jumped up, and my wife found the noise disconcerting. My defense was that we were still a good 1500 rpm short of the red line, and the temperature gauge was flat, so there's nothing to be concerned about. She was not convinced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, who's right? Is engine braking bad for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:52:01.993" Title="Is engine braking harmful?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-06-07T22:52:20.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3603" CreationDate="2012-05-28T03:40:19.197" Score="1" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a 66 tbird and everything is pretty straight, I love the car, but the main impediment to me registering it is the spedomometer, which typically reads about 50-60 when I am going much slower, it also doesn't seem to increase linearly with speed... As if it reads 55 then I step on it, accelerate maybe 15mph and now it says 55.4 ...  It is sort of like it is sticking, and bouncing up and down a bit too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want to keep the cool long red line speedo if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1850" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T21:57:34.113" Title="1966 t-bird speedo reads way too high" Tags="|speedometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2012-05-28T04:35:04.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're using a factory speedometer.  If so, are your wheels factory size?  Wheels being the wrong size is a sure-fire way to throw off your speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T04:35:04.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2012-05-28T12:56:16.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The older mechanical speedometers were cable driven. The cable is more like a very tight coil spring with a small square driver crimped on each end. One end was driven by the transmission the other end drove the speedo head. The speedometer was calibrated to the vehicles tire size and final gear ratio by installing specific speedometer drive gears in the transmission. If at some point the differential or transmission was changed it may just have the wrong drive gear in the transmission. If this is the case it should read either high or low say 5% at all speeds.If it is fluctuating you may have a speedometer cable that is binding.On some models you can unscrew the connector on the transmission side and remove the cable from its' housing and lube it with powdered graphite. When reinstalling it rotate it by hand to match the square drive into the square hole in the speedo head. Unfortunatly some cables can only be removed from the housing at the speedometer end which may require disassembly of the dash to gain acess. The worst possible scenario is that the speedometer itself is failing.They can be repaired but it tends to be a specialized service, read that as expensive. I would try to contact a local T-Bird club and see if you can get advise on a local repair shop if the speedometer head needs repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T21:57:34.113" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T21:57:34.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-28T14:19:52.710" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how professional mechanics manage liability in the event that something goes wrong with a repair and a customer's vehicle is damaged or destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose for example, that Joe Mechanic disassembles an engine for an overhaul and reassembles it incorrectly, causing major damage when the motor is started.  The damage in this case could likely be a total loss on a modest used car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Joe works at a professional shop, is he personally liable to pay for the damage?  Would the shop be financially liable first?  Would Joe or his employer likely carry some sort of insurance to cover this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Joe works on his own, what options does he have, then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T17:42:46.840" Title="How do mechanics and shops manage liability?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-28T14:58:54.470" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the story with ODB scanners like ELM237 - do they read &lt;strong&gt;manufacturer's&lt;/strong&gt; error codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I had a Volvo S60 04 and cheap scanners could read only general error codes. This was not useful since there are more than 9k codes and these supported only few hundreds. Now I have Mazda 6 03 and the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1852" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T22:58:17.460" Title="ODB scanner with manufacturers error codes support" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2012-05-28T15:52:11.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/678/least-wear-and-tear-most-fuel-efficient-method-of-coasting-in-a-manual-transmis/681#681&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, engine braking close to the redline is not advised.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a steep enough grade, the leverage of the wheels will continue to speed the engine to and past the redline.  None of the ignition or fuel systems will be able to do anything about it.  Something dramatically bad will happen to the engine at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will also be second-order effects like increased temperature in the gearbox and differentials but that is a natural consequence of running at higher revs.  There will, of course, be significantly more noise.  If your passengers are complaining (and it's their car?), that might be something to consider....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to make the call about how high is too high.  If you were driving up and down &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtwashingtonautoroad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mount Washington&lt;/a&gt;, the guides insist that you keep the car in second gear.  In that situation, you have to tolerate some higher revs and engine temperatures (it got surprisingly hot in the cabin when we went).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final factor in consideration: lower revs are more fuel efficient, engine braking or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T15:52:11.077" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3604" CreationDate="2012-05-28T17:42:46.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure all legitimate shops carry insurance for this kind of thing. Oftentimes the building lease or mortgage will even &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; a business to have insurance policies appropriate to their line of business, because if the business goes bankrupt due to a huge liability like this, the landlord is out of rent, or if there's a mortgage, the bank might even have to fight with the injured party for the property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, in the real world most shops are likely to do everything they can to avoid admitting fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a particular employee who screwed up, they're probably going to get fired, but I think you'd have a hard time pinning the financial liability on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the standard IANAL applies. Ask a lawyer, not a stackexchange site, if you need legal advice on these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T17:42:46.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3574" CreationDate="2012-05-28T17:48:55.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat problem sounds like poor coolant circulation, possibly due to low fluid level or partial clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T17:48:55.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3612" CreationDate="2012-05-28T19:04:15.563" Score="7" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first time in my years of driving, I slid pretty badly the other day. I've slid before a little bit, but this is the first time I slid badly-- I nearly went off the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, it was raining and because a lot of pressure was on me at the time, I was foolishly going faster than I ought to have been around a pretty sharply curving highway entrance ramp. I wasn't surprised that I slid, and nothing ended up happening, but frankly it felt like I slid further than I ought to have, and that's never happened before to that extent. It made me wonder if maybe my tires were losing traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T07:42:42.877" Title="How to know if I need new tires?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2012-05-28T19:35:17.853" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer in progress.&lt;/em&gt; (Shall expand, and add more authoritative links when have time later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fuel Consumption&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern electronic (as opposed to mechanical) fuel-injection systems (that also includes TBI (throttle body) single-point injection) are equipped with throttle position sensor. In the event of overrun (higher RPM, closed throttle) fuel input is cut off, thus making it more efficient than coasting in neutral and using brakes alone (one supposed to brake with gears engaged anyway). Fuel kicks in only when engine speed (RPM) approaches to or below the idle speed to maintain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information about fuel cut-off operation can be found in Bosch technical publication &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/Bosch%20K-Jetronic%20Fuel%20Injection%20Manual%20-%20boschtech-12d.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic”&lt;/a&gt; (PDF, search for multiple occurrences of “overrun”):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel metering is interrupted during trailing throttle [overrun]. Although this expedient saves fuel on downhill stretches, its primary purpose is to guard the catalytic converter against overheating stemming from poor and incomplete combustion (misfiring)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[…]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutoff of the fuel supply during overrun operation permits the fuel consumption to be reduced considerably not only when driving downhill but also in town traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar data can be found on systems of other manufacturers. Some of them even allow the cut-off parameters to be modified (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager/index.html?tpsparameters.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustment of overrun&lt;/a&gt; for SManager software for s300 module for Honda ECUs — good illustration on how this feature works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Engine Wear&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As above suggests, power stroke is eliminated, ergo one of the most demanding energy loads on the engine is gone. In all, given proper care and maintenance, consensus is that engine braking does not add any statistically significant friction wear on the motor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test this hypothesis I did several searches on the subject via academic databases and Google Scholar (both &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=increased%20engine%20wear%20due%20to%20%22engine%20braking%22&amp;amp;btnG=&amp;amp;hl=ru&amp;amp;as_sdt=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;with&lt;/a&gt; and without patents), and I have not found a single paper concerned with increased engine wear, but plenty discussing the methods to increase effectiveness of engine braking, as power of modern engines increased dramatically, and drive-train losses are reduced. As this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US5146890?printsec=description#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. Patent 5,146,890&lt;/a&gt; (by Volvo) states (p.1 of “Description”):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving in hilly terrain, the wheel brakes should be used as little as possible, primarily for safety reasons. The average speed of the vehicle in hilly terrain is therefore greatly influenced by the available engine braking power, which increases the requirement for a more effective engine brake that will also be capable of reducing wear and tear on the wheel brakes and thereby improve running economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Gearbox Wear&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher RPM by themselves do not mean that gearbox is being pushed beyond its design limitations. Few hills at higher RPM due to engine braking (given smooth transitions when switching) would not cause any more wear than, say, hours on end on the motorway pushing over 120 km/h (75 mph). If mountain roads is your primary area of operation then it would qualify as severe use (just like frequent towing), and would require transmission cooler anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:52:01.993" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3613" CreationDate="2012-05-28T20:02:09.173" Score="8" ViewCount="221891" Body="&lt;p&gt;The windows on my car stopped working a few months ago. I could hear the motor running but the wouldn't go back up.  Managed to get them closed by putting my hand flat against the window and pushing upward to help the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was driving down the highway and one of them fell open by about 6 inches. It doesn't seem to want to go any lower but I haven't tested that hypothesis. I don't have the cash to fix it right now and was hoping I could get some pointers on a way to at least keep it closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2001 Buick Regal LS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastEditorUserId="1853" LastEditDate="2012-05-29T03:34:23.037" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T18:59:21.217" Title="Is there a way to prop up a window that falls down?" Tags="|power-windows|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3609" CreationDate="2012-05-28T21:55:48.797" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three common methods.The first is to buy a tread depth gauge which measures tire tread in 32nds of an inch. The general standard is 3/32's minimum.The second is a penny. Insert Lincolns head into the tread,if the tread does not hit Lincolns hair it is due for replacement. Do this test in five different spots,if two are not hitting the hair replace the tire. Third is to look for wear bars. If you look at the bottom of the tire tread you will notice a slight bump that runs perpendicular to the tread.If that bump is even with the top of the tread the tire should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T21:55:48.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2012-05-28T22:52:46.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the open one is still on the track, it may stay up if you can get it get back up and pull the fuse the windows are on.  If it's partially off the track (one of the rollers has popped out) or the mechanism and / or motor are really shot, you might have to pull off the door panel and rig something up to keep it in place until you can fix it or have it fixed.  The wooden shim mikes suggested sounds like a good idea.  Once you've got the door panel off to access the mechanism, though, you're almost half way to fixing it.  Shop around for the parts, if you can afford them, fixing it might actually be the easiest way.  If you need cheap parts, see if you have a Pick-N-Pull or other 'pull it yourself' boneyard near you.  In addition to discount parts, you get to practice taking the door panel off.  Worst case, you can always tape up a sheet of plastic.  You wouldn't be the first to drive around with one of those until you can afford a window fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1282/moving-a-dead-power-window-in-order-to-remove-it&quot;&gt;moving a dead power window in order to remove it&lt;/a&gt; for a description of one type of mechanism.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/video_4997502_replace-car-window-drive-cable.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a video showing the removal of a cable driven mechanism.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T23:01:48.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2012-05-29T09:24:04.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this happen many years ago with an old Volkswagen, just before a 700 mile drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duct tape is simple - tape the glass to the door frame, both inside and outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And (as we learned very quickly) - if it is raining also duct tape all around the window!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T09:24:04.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2012-05-29T16:25:27.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  had this on an old beat-up Chrysler. The temporary solution was to wedge a pair of vice grips between the window and the door frame (on the inside). The vice grips served a dual purpose: for holding the window up when it was raining and  for grabbing the top of the window so I could pull it up, after I needed to let it slide down for any reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T16:25:27.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2012-05-29T19:08:04.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How high is &quot;too high&quot; for RPMs? My rule-of-thumb is to go down hills in the same gear I'd use to go up them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for wear, it should be pointed out that brakes are cheaper than clutches or engine re-builds. But as others have pointed out, the wear on an engine that is efficiently removing friction heat is likely to be much less than that on brakes that don't remove heat particularly efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you pump brakes (I use two seconds on, two seconds off), then the brakes can stay cool. If you can't get in the habit of pumping brakes, then you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be using engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer is to go down in a high gear if the hill is shallow enough to allow you to control speed by brake-pumping, and go down in the gear you'd go up in if the hill is too steep for brake-pumping to control your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T19:08:04.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3605" CreationDate="2012-05-29T22:58:17.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An ELM327 isn't a scantool, it's just a chip that provides an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hayes_command_set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AT command&lt;/a&gt; interface to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBDII&lt;/a&gt;.  It should be able to pull any stored codes from the powertrain controller itself, but that doesn't mean that whatever hardware/software solution the chip is integrated into is going to understand those codes and display them properly.  Though I'd be surprised if it wouldn't at least display the bare trouble code without any description.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how much &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#CAN_.2811-bit.29_Bus_format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CAN&lt;/a&gt; the ELM327 speaks, and that could be a problem.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CGUQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DS.pdf&amp;amp;ei=fFPFT6HcMIKs2gW5pdThAQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHxmPN_9MzQPh0qsSBZ-hYh9KVT_A&amp;amp;sig2=_1zs_5kJWVRTDMgfGE_qvQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;docs&lt;/a&gt; mention sending CAN commands, but I don't know  much about the OBDII/CAN protocols.  Again, whatever is between you and the ELM327 has a role to play here (unless you're in a serial comm program on a computer typing out AT commands by hand).  Some vehicles have more modules to talk to than the powertrain controller...there can be a lot of stuff on the CAN bus.  I don't know whether any of that can have locally stored trouble codes or not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T22:58:17.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3702" CreationDate="2012-05-30T00:57:01.043" Score="7" ViewCount="37715" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I fix a leaking power steering system on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra myself?  Here you can see that the bottom hose is very damp with power steering fluid. The top hose has some wetness near the reservoir. I'm not sure what the top and bottom hoses are called, I assume one is the pressure line assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the reservoir and hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gZ32.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reservoir and hoses&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcrZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reservoir and hoses&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the line that comes down from the lower reservoir hose. I found a lot of posts that said this can corrode. It looks like it is rusted, but not sure this is where the leak is. (front right of car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtYcu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from bottom reservoir hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the bottom of the car. You can see some of the droplets forming underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eykJP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this diagram of the power steering system in the car, but I don't know which of the hoses is the power steering pressure hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PXE2C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some video links of the problem as well.  These likely won't be live forever so if the links are dead, you can edit and remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Videos are no longer good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1857" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T12:58:46.550" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T02:45:52.203" Title="How to repair a leaking power steering system in a 2002 Hyundai Elantra" Tags="|power-steering|leak|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3346" CreationDate="2012-05-30T01:59:03.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=67584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CEM&lt;/a&gt;, if it has anything to do with the instrument cluster.  Might just be the wiring, as was the case &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=67437&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Though not being able to flash your powertrain controller due to the key position seems to point to the ignition cylinder or some of the wiring to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really do have a CEM fault, you can see if you can find a wholesale source for it, though your shop(s) might refuse to install parts you don't buy from them (or if they do the install, they might not warranty the work).  There's always the junkyard, too, but going that route you don't know if you're getting a good part, and the shop probably won't want to install a used part given that new parts are available.  Usually, if you're paying for labor, junkyard parts don't make sense, but if you need a Volvo CEM, maybe.  It doesn't look that it's that hard to swap out, you might even be able to do it yourself.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T01:59:03.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="156" CreationDate="2012-05-30T03:53:45.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if a dealership can pull the service history for you.  I'm under the impression that, say, a GM dealer can pull all the service records for a vehicle, even if the work was performed by another GM dealer.  If that's true, you still won't have records of work performed by independent shops, but it's better than nothing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T03:53:45.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T12:13:30.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;just dropping in to show my support for this forum and to ask a quick question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had my '06 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Quattro Sport serviced and MOT'd yesterday. Knew my front pads were &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; worn (tried to change them myself but was sent the wrong parts) so asked the guy to change them aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I hadn't had any warning lights regarding the pads being worn... Nor the rears (which were replaced a month or 2 ago). Now after the change and MOT my car's warning me that the brake pads are worn! I can clearly see the new pads are fitted correctly and have plenty of wear on them... So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the signal cable/sensor wire be incorrectly plugged in/setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1860" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:08:14.683" Title="Audi A3 Brake warning after MOT" Tags="|brakes|audi|sensor|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:00:50.790" Score="6" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring. Whenever I'm stopped (either in park or braked in drive) there's a rattle that seems to be coming from the driver side dash. I'm having trouble figuring out what it is. It's louder when the air is on, but still present when it's off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried/ruled out the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.earthlink.net/%7Eintelligentbear/hyundairearviewmirror.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rear view mirror&lt;/a&gt; - I was having this problem too, but it was separate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Items in the glove box or other compartments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting the steering wheel position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressing various portions of the dash and doors to try and find it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had the hood open while it was running and it didn't seem to be audible from outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else might be causing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update, year or so later: Still happening. Tried removing various portions of the dash and pressing on stuff to see if I could locate it. No luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T02:48:24.327" Title="What could be causing the rattle in the front of my car?" Tags="|hyundai|rattle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:08:14.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that they either fitted brake pads that don't have wear sensors or didn't connect the wear sensors correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:08:14.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:09:05.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a similar problem in her car and the only thing that helps is putting a thick stack of papers (parking stubs and tickets, mostly) between the dash and the part of the body that's between the windshield and the right window. It's worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:09:05.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2012-05-30T19:54:09.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash in the shade. If you do not clean off the soap/cleaner before it dries, streaks will appear. Also use a quality glass cleaner. As mentioned, &quot;Invisible Glass&quot; is a great one that I use and don't have streaks with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure there is no wax on the window. Some car wash soaps have integrated waxes in them. They are not really a good replacement for a real wax application and they tend to &quot;wax&quot; the windows as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T19:54:09.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3635" CreationDate="2012-05-30T19:54:26.487" Score="7" ViewCount="38081" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2212/is-it-best-to-replace-hid-headlights-in-pairs&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, the replacement tail/brake combined lights I bought from Halfords for a Chevrolet Lacetti advised that the bulbs be replaced in pairs.  They're dual filament conventional bulbs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any advantage or reason to replace this type of bulbs in pairs other than bolstering the manufacturer's profits?  I've only replaced the broken one so far and they look equally bright to me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1863" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T05:13:17.933" Title="Is there any benefit to replacing lights in pairs?" Tags="|lights|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2012-05-30T19:56:24.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sort of. Older filaments in headlights can be noticeably duller. If you are OCD, it might benefit you. Typically when one bulb goes out, the others that were replaced at the same time are probably near their end of life. Or, perhaps not. I don't replace things that aren't broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's just more money for the parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T19:56:24.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:06:18.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not going to overheat the car. No fuel will be injected assuming the car meets the fuel cut criteria (warmed up, RPM &gt; 1500 or so, depends on the car). It will cool it down since relatively cool air is not being heated by combustion (albeit compression is still heating it a bit). This cools the cylinders and exhaust which in turn cools the engine's coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:06:18.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:14:13.023" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper conducts better and is generally used in higher-performance/modified engines. In dedicated race cars resistor-less copper plugs are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iridium and platinum plugs are chosen for their longevity only. You &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; gap iridiums because of potential damage to the tips. For that reason and their inferior conductivity, they aren't used in modified engines. Keep in mind their price, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any claims of more power or fuel efficiency of one type over another are pretty much baseless unless you were using the wrong plugs to begin with. Stick with what your owner's manual calls for unless you have a reason to upgrade/modify. For example, if you have a turbocharged car but are running more boost you might gap your plugs a little smaller to accommodate. The claims by parts stores to upgrade to the Triple-Spark Ultimate Unobtainium plugs are just upsells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T22:46:23.880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T22:46:23.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3419" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:18:25.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per most service manuals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Iridium&lt;/strong&gt; 100-120k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Copper&lt;/strong&gt; 20-30k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coppers used to be commonly found on turbo cars and can wear out much faster with &amp;quot;spirited&amp;quot; driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:18:25.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3547" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:23:42.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ECU may have &quot;tuned&quot; itself to the gap and behavior of the old plugs. When you had the plugs replaced, if the shop did not disconnect the battery (and even if they did, not sure about your Ford) the ECU would still have the long term fuel trims that matched your old plugs  in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this may result in a bit less or more fuel being injected and possibly causing your O2 sensor(s) to read either too lean or rich. If this occurs often enough, the computer may throw a code until the long term trims come back down (or up!). The computer does not know that the plugs were replaced, and can only detect that, &quot;the car is suddenly requiring quite a bit of changes to the fuel trims&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, was the battery disconnected? Or more specifically, are the fuel trims in the ECU reset? The shop should be able to verify this with an advanced OBD-II tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:23:42.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3598" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:31:46.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold water will not crack the block. The hose procedure is common and you just have to be sure that you add the correct amount of antifreeze and water (preferably demineralized) when you are finished flushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that automobiles in colder climates sometimes start when their coolant is below freezing. Granted both the engine and the coolant warm up together, but an iron or aluminum block would take a quite large, instantaneous temperature drop that cold water is not going to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:31:46.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T22:42:00.723" Score="1" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3590/should-i-use-coca-cola-or-baking-soda-water-to-clean-my-battery-clamps&quot;&gt;Should I use coca cola or baking soda + water to clean my battery clamps?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My roommate's car wouldn't start, and we found a ton of corrosion on the battery posts. He heard you can clean it off with coca-cola. It seemed to work pretty well, but what's the best way to clean off corrosion? Should the wires be disconnected, or any other precautions taken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T23:16:19.977" Title="How do you clean battery corrosion?" Tags="|battery|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-06-04T00:12:59.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3633" CreationDate="2012-05-30T23:16:19.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery, and take it out. You can clean the battery with coca-cola as it is the king of the cheap anti corrosives (or remover of corrosion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not confuse corrosion with the sulphate. The white thing on the battery can be easily removed with hot watter and latter a bit of coca-cola.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some products that you can get in store, but as a cheap solution and answer to your question Yes you can use coca-cola.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember&#xA;Put the battery on a place where any spills can be collected. &#xA;Don't dump the content of the battery on places where animal or other forms of life can be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T23:16:19.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2012-05-30T23:32:08.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each bulb have some sort of life time expectancy so if two lamps are installed at the same time and one fails after a long period of time you can deduce that the other can be close to failure as well so for security some people and manufacturers ($$$$) recommend replacing both at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that there is no rule since a lot of factors come to play when estimating the life expectancy of the bulb, just to mention a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Length of wiring&lt;/strong&gt; (left and right side) some times indicator or other lights on the car have a different wire lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality of the bulb&lt;/strong&gt; two bulbs will never be the same even if the same quality check is applied to both, the filaments are sooooo delicate that what looks ok to the naked eye may be far from the reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condition of the bulb receptor&lt;/strong&gt; Bad contact, water, over heating, poor maintenance,etc, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one goes off buy two, replace one, and keep the other in the car just in case it is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T07:53:09.397" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T07:53:09.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T02:30:49.383" Score="1" ViewCount="6710" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading this question - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3600/is-engine-braking-harmful&quot;&gt;Is engine braking harmful?&lt;/a&gt; - reminds me of a question I have always wanted to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to own a Prius. When the Prius is cruising at low speed at a slight downward slope, the engine is frequently turned off spontaneously as well as not having any electric input into the drive motor. Therefore, the combustion drive is also disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why can't auto manufacturers transfer that technology/mechanism to non-hybrid combustion cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays I drive a manual shift. When I need the car to cruise at low speeds, I often step on the clutch to avoid the idling engine from dragging the speed of the car down. I also avoid accelerating the car too fast so that I could reduce the frequency of having to lift my foot off the pedal to get engine drag to slow the car down. So that while I can achieve 45 mpg, someone else driving the same car in a very rugged style would only get 38 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether automatic or manual transmission, why can't/don't manufacturers transfer that spontaneous transmission disengagement/re-engagement mechanism to non-hybrid cars? 45 vs 38 mpg is very significant fuel saving. Why can't car makers exploit that mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T03:41:22.533" Title="How to reduce engine drag" Tags="|transmission|clutch|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1919" CreationDate="2012-05-31T02:58:53.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing sounds like activation of the automatic's kickdown switch. Which is just that, a switch that forces the engine to downshift to provide more immediate acceleration. This is normal, and is usually a physical switch attached to the end of the gas pedal's travel path. It is activated when, say, 90% or more throttle depressed. Newer cars activate this just using the Throttle Position Sensor data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, this is designed in on automatic vehicles. Otherwise, if your car had just shifted into overdrive and you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to accelerate, you'd have no way to force it to downshift (although some cars have a separate overdrive lockout switch). It is so your car can provide more immediate feedback. Think emergency situations, drag racing, late for work, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the kickdown switch is activated, the car will only downshift if possible. If you are already at 5000 RPM it will not downshift again and force the engine past its redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually upon letting off the pedal (not necessarily all the way) the car will shortly return to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in addition to any programmed downshifting due to engine load. Which may be what you are encountering. A car is much harder to move with the wheels turned all the way, and depending on other factors, the car's computer may detect a large amount of engine load and downshift. Some cars handle this more gracefully than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T14:20:36.950" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T14:20:36.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2012-05-31T03:13:40.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On automatics this is sort of the case. The engine is not directly connected to the transmission and they &quot;coast&quot; a bit more than manuals left in gear. Unless they are in downhill mode, which keeps the converter locked up, and functions similarly to a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that one of the benefits of a manual transmission is that the choice is up to me. It depends a lot on context. Sometimes I just want to save brakes and gas at the same time, and I let the engine do the braking coming to a long red light. Otherwise, I might put it in neutral and coast because I know it will turn green soon. If the car decided to place itself in neutral at every opportunity, it might not always be the most efficient decision. For example, if I knew I had to stop ahead, engine braking would save gas where as disengaging the transmission while remaining in neutral would waste gas (unless the engine is turned off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, There are some manual transmission cars that do turn themselves off when the car is stopped and the transmission is in neutral. Upon initial depressing of the clutch, the car quickly starts up again. The BMW 118d, I believe, does this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like this from a technical point of view. Engine starting is one of hardest things an engine has to suffer. A way to relieve some of this stress is to have an oil pressure reservoir of some sort. For all I know the BMW example I mentioned might have this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:13:40.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2998" CreationDate="2012-05-31T03:20:35.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. However, it would probably be more trouble than it is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was an option for your car, you just need to obtain all the related parts and install them. This would be at least the MFD and related wiring. Maybe the ECU, more wiring harnesses,  sensors, etc. would be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't an option for &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; car, then quite a bit of DIY wiring would be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I doubt it would be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:20:35.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2012-05-31T08:39:45.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your question may be misguided. The final effect you seem to be looking for is to be able to cruise at a specific speed while using the least amount of petrol, is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is absolutely possible in modern internal combustion engine cars. You don't do it by turning the engine off and on again, or by depressing the clutch to let the car freewheel though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do it by choosing the right gear and the right engine speed - you should not be accelerating to a speed then disengaging the clutch to let the car slow down again. That would actually be less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific instance of a gentle downhill slope, I think if you want an idle speed in top gear of more than 30mph you might just need to increase your engine idle speed - but this will also impact fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lastly&lt;/strong&gt;, if fuel economy is your end goal, have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2997/37&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which covers the topic nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T08:39:45.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:12:53.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good general discussion forum is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BimmerForums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:25:09.767" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:25:09.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T20:02:50.607" Score="1" ViewCount="7805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Mazda Protege with about 100,000 miles on it.  Even very uncertain guestimates at the appropriate price for this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will worn struts damage my tires?  How quickly?  Is driving on worn struts dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T20:34:18.570" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T22:23:59.367" Title="Do my struts need replacing? Is it possible to repair them? What's a reasonable price?" Tags="|mazda|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T20:46:42.243" Score="3" ViewCount="2723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My previous car was totalled and while shopping for used cars, I have found a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S on sale for a very good price. It is being sold by the current owner, and it has been going to the Nissan dealership pretty regularly for routine maintenance (oil, filter change, eetc), so I am happy with the current state of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has clocked ~50k miles and that, I guess puts it in the &quot;major preventative maintenance&quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner had never &quot;popped the hood&quot; before, so, when I did, to check the engine out, I noticed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Engine coolant reservoir has an absurdly low level. It's like 5% of the reservoir volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that, any vendor, including Nissan does a check of the coolant level during their routine maintenance, and the last check was 9 months ago, and given that the car had been driven around only 10k miles since, I am concerned about coolant leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the owner to turn the engine on and the exhaust does not blow white or blue smoke, so I guess that rules out coolant leaking into the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine made a screeching noise for the first 5 - 10 minutes after a cold start, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abqYkjT2zf4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abqYkjT2zf4&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not see the belt drive closely enough but the &quot;serpentine&quot; belt drive design itself looks a bit weird: there's the belt coupled to a basic pulley system on both ends and the whole setup is under tension somehow and that worries me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i. I am unable to closely inspect the state of the current belt and can't confirm if the noise is due to the belt itslef or from the power steering belt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ii. If I end up buying this car, I would have to go through a lot of trouble loosening the tension and putting it back on just to inspect the state of the current belt, and I am not aware of any other system on the car that can make such a screeching noise (&lt;strong&gt;need help and suggestions here&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This model has large number of reports of a blown head gasket. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Sentra/2005/engine/blown_head_gasket.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Sentra/2005/engine/blown_head_gasket.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that these reports are an insignificant portion of the total amount of models sold in the US (&lt;strong&gt;otherwise they would have been legally required to do a recall, wouldn't they?&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my assumption is false, then Nissan is an irresponsible company indeed, and I should not buy this car (or any of their models) to begin with, but given the large number of Nissan Altimas I see around, I would like to believe that those reports of a blown head gasket is within a small margin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping that in mind, short of an expensive ($200+) pressure test, how can I confirm or estimate if this particular car could be one of those with a blown head gasket in the future? (The absurd coolant level worries me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, failing that, is there any &quot;preventative maintenance&quot; I could do to keep the gasket from leaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T14:57:58.313" Title="Maintenance on a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S" Tags="|engine|maintenance|nissan|belt|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3642" CreationDate="2012-05-31T22:23:59.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to tell if your struts are worn out is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push down hard (lean into) the fender right above a wheel and then let go. The spring should compress when you push into it, and the car should come back up ONCE (slightly above the rest point) and settle back into where it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shocks are not doing their job, your car will bounce 2 or more times before settling, and should be replaced; mostly for handling/safety reasons. It's unsafe to bounce after a bump multiple times, especially when cornering. In an extreme case, you could lose traction and hit a wall because of poor shocks (but you'd have to be pushing the limits of the car's traction and then hit a bump while in a corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they shouldn't 'damage' your tires or cause them to wear any faster than normal. Wear is caused from friction with the road (length traveled), which will be amplified by a poor alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would 'guestimate' a shock-job at $150-$400 per pair (Front or Rear only), which will depend greatly on your car. Most trucks and some car rears are on the cheaper end (shocks) where most car fronts are struts which are a more costly part and more costly to replace (the spring has to be compressed and set into the new one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T22:23:59.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3647" CreationDate="2012-06-01T05:16:33.283" Score="2" ViewCount="4836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a &lt;code&gt;Hero Honda CBZXtreme bike&lt;/code&gt;. The top speed that I have reached is &lt;code&gt;122Km/Hr&lt;/code&gt;. But I am not able to reach this speed always. Sometimes the speed does not even cross &lt;code&gt;105 Km/Hr&lt;/code&gt; while travelling on the same road. Whats the catch here? On what does the top speed depend? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't seem to understand this. &lt;code&gt;Because I am using the same bike and the same road every day&lt;/code&gt;. But the top speed differs daily.Does it depend upon how and when I &lt;code&gt;shift the gears&lt;/code&gt; or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="1871" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T15:16:39.317" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T11:25:05.433" Title="Top Speed varies even when using the same bike" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2012-06-01T07:45:41.500" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll find the following will all affect your speed and acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wind speed - a head wind will slow you down more than you would think&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your clothing - this directly impacts drag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike configuration - you'll go slower with panniers on than with them off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight - a full tank will mean you accelerate more slowly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temperature - cooler air can give you a better top speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what type of fuel - if tuned for it, an engine can get a higher speed on better petrol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how warm the engine is - many engines will not produce full power until warmed up, and engines that are too hot will also underperform (see temperature) so cooling is essential at high rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type of tyre - some have higher rolling resistance than others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air pressure/oxygen content - engines are more efficient at sea level than up a mountain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exit from previous corner - if you come out of the previous corner faster, you can get &#xA;up to speed faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gear choice - a lower gear has more torque, but a lower top speed, so changing up early will lead to a slower acceleration (known as short-shifting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So see which of these have changed between your different attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T08:24:23.650" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T08:24:23.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3652" CreationDate="2012-06-01T08:53:32.797" Score="3" ViewCount="10779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1.3L Skoda Felicia, (carburetter engine without catalytic nor other gimmicks). Since past 1-2 months I would hear the exhaust sound has changed, it became more and more audible and at full throttle it sounded like a spitting with your tongue between lips (kind of like buzzing?). Recently, in past several days it started to change and gained additional bass and overall pitch has become more like a tractor. All the sound effects kick in after 1500-1800rpm and throttle more than 20% open. If I drive smoothly the exhaust almost not audible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I know my exhaust consists of 3 parts (Y-pipe from engine and 2 resonators connected with pipe). Y-pipe looks quite rusted, but holds ok and I doubt it would degrade in described fashion, but maybe I'm wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the question - what part of my exhaust needs changing and how could I verify/check it without garage nor extra tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T09:37:16.410" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T16:26:25.377" Title="How to determine by ear which part of exhaust needs replacing?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2012-06-01T12:22:27.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I first touch with hands every area of exhaus. If I don't find anything, its possible exhaust has the small holes. Then I start engine ant touch with hand again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With ear you cant fint exactly location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T12:22:27.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2012-06-01T13:16:50.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raise the vehicle on to jack stands or drive on ramps. With the engine running have a friend hold a rag over the tailpipe. Crawl under the vehicle. Move your hands around the exhaust system while listening and feeling for the leak. Be careful how close you get your hands to the exhaust system as it will get hot. If no leaks are found it is possible that the baffles or sound packing in the muffler have failed and the muffler needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T13:16:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2012-06-01T14:46:13.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can block one end while engine running and see if you can detect smoke coming out somewhere in the pipe/box (remember that the exhaust gets hot and if blocked for too long the engine will stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other way is to visually inspect each element and see if they are fitted correctly, you should look for parts that can be easily disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that some exhaust &quot;boxes&quot; have different components inside that can fail to remain attached, including some small pipes that help to reduce the noise. If that is the case you may need to replace that part of the exhaust. To cheek if that is the problem just give it a little shake (engine stopped) to see if you can hear any noise of losing parts inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you didn't say if the noise come from the front of the car or the back. If the noise come from the front you may check if the start of the exhaust is correctly attached to the engine and check for signs of broken/burn exhaust gaskets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1811" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T00:37:58.837" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T00:37:58.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2012-06-01T15:06:13.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I see rusted areas, I poke them with a screwdriver to see if they're solid.  Other than that, start up the car on a cool morning and look for vapor coming out from places other than the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T15:06:13.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-01T15:41:13.727" Score="1" ViewCount="1938" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine revs are high it runs well, the air adjuster screw is set at recommended setting (1.5 turns) and at low rpms the engine sputters out, but isn't flooding. I've tried a replacement carb and it runs fine, so the problem is within the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried opening the air adjuster screw, no effect. I replaced the upper half of the carb with part of another, and the problem is definitely in the lower part of the carb (the part that bolts on the intake manifold, where the air mixture screw and butterfly valve is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help / suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1875" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T03:26:09.000" Title="What can cause a 1973 BMW 2002 stock solex carburetor to idle badly but run well at high RPMs?" Tags="|bmw|carburetor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3648" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:09:15.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a gasket might have blown out. Probably near the engine head, so the exhaust manifold itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try soapy water on the joints/mating surfaces to see if there are any bubbles coming up when you start the engine. Try this on a cold engine though, as it won't last long before it all evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm willing to bet it's a gasket near the manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T16:09:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2695" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:14:56.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in your comment, typically they are one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have tabs that require you to use a flat tool (ie screwdriver) to pop them out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have small push in plastic pieces that surround a screw hole. Pop the plastic piece out, then unscrew the panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hidden screws somewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that you have to remove a surrounding panel via the screwdriver method to get to the screws that hold in a neighboring piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T16:14:56.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2608" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:19:17.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should cause a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) as it's remotely emissions related and can cause a loss of fuel economy. If you're sure that it's not in a mode that disables overdrive (and typically causes the car to stay in gear and shift late, for descending hills), then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would do is try and get a free or cheap code readout. That can point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing I would try is checking any &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_control_unit#Kick_down_switch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kickdown switch linkage&lt;/a&gt;, or if electronically controlled, the throttle position sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T16:19:17.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3661" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:04:13.127" Score="5" ViewCount="35214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with an issue for over a year wherein my 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix starts sometimes and does not start at other times. I had the issue diagnosed last year by the GM dealership. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They told me that I needed to replace the passlock sensor which would cost about $500. I was not ready to get this type of work done at the time, so I recently went back and they recommended that I let them perform a second diagnosis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time they returned with two issues. The passlock sensor and body control module needed to be replaced, this would be $1000. Upon asking the service rep, would the passlock sensor replacement solve the &quot;sporadic start issue&quot;, she said no. She stated that both parts would prevent the car from starting because they dealt with communication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound true? How does a BCM keep a car from not starting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have not been using my keypad, the battery holder needs repair &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1876" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T06:46:46.860" Title="Will a BCM prevent a car from starting?" Tags="|electrical|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3669" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:37:08.943" Score="1" ViewCount="3643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 1998 Ford Contour with manual windows that has partially broken crank handles on both sides in front.  The knob you grip while rotating the handles has broken off, which makes it annoying to roll the windows down or up.  What's the procedure for removing and replacing the handles?  What's the part number for a replacement handle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T14:29:13.557" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T14:29:13.557" Title="Broken window crank handle" Tags="|ford|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3670" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:43:11.397" Score="1" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 1998 Ford Contour.  The hose from the washer pump comes up on the back corner of the engine bay on the passenger side and runs across the hood toward the drivers side.  The nozzle on the passenger side connects to a plastic T-junction which is connected to the hose from the washer pump.  Another hose runs from the other side of the T-junction to the nozzle for the driver's side.  There are a few plastic clips attached to the hood to hold the hoses in place.  The T-junction and some of the clips are broken.  What's the procedure for removing broken parts?  The parts have been discontinued by Ford.  Are there any other sources for them?  Are there similar parts from another application that will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T14:28:17.783" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T14:28:17.783" Title="Broken washer hose junction and clip hardware" Tags="|ford|windshield-washer|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2012-06-02T00:44:27.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a short answer: Yes, the BCM can prevent a car from starting, and doubly so when you introduce a security/antitheft system like Passlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that the BCM feeds inputs into the Passlock (or other security system) for it to 'determine' if it is being stolen or hotwired. For example: the status of the doors, interior lights, trunk status, etc. and in some cases can even control the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I would not go hand $1k to the dealership. I would follow this guide and bypass the Passlock system entirely: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the guide supports my answer and the GM dealers' association with the BCM in that if you attempt the Passlock bypass and it doesn't work, then you need to replace your BCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T00:44:27.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3654" CreationDate="2012-06-02T00:52:01.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume first that you've tried spraying carb cleaner into it since you've had it out, so your question is more about what other adjustments there are, specifically relating to the idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the Mixture screw you mentioned, there is usually 'Pilot Jet(s)' that allow some fuel regardless of RPM (as opposed to the 'Main Jet(s)'), and if they get gummed up that could cause your issue. If they're clean (and identical between the carbs), the next thing I would check is the float bowl height. Here's a good intro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjIjExNumJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjIjExNumJA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only can they 'leak' and allow some gasoline into the bowl, the springs/tabs can weaken and put them in an unequal/improper place. This will sometimes even out in the higher RPMs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T00:52:01.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3666" CreationDate="2012-06-02T01:26:33.033" Score="3" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiped a bunch of brake dust off my car's wheels and got some on my hands; what's a good, responsible way to wash my hands after I get brake dust on them? I don't really know if it's unsafe to get it down your sink like grease (but I kind of assume so). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I use to get brake dust off my hands and how should I dispose of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="1320" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T01:36:28.603" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T04:01:15.000" Title="How should I clean brake dust off my hands?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3677" CreationDate="2012-06-02T01:27:19.003" Score="5" ViewCount="4809" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my 97 Subaru Legacy has &lt;em&gt;pretty dim&lt;/em&gt; headlights, and it drives me up the wall. I like nice, thorough illumination when I'm driving at night; being able to see really does wonders for confidence on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was at the mechanic today to get my loose power stealing belt tightened, and I asked him about it, and he took a look and said my lenses were all clouded over. Now, I was aware things were looking ancient up there, but I asked him a few more questions and he said that it would cost over $150 for new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe him; he's a great mechanic. But can someone explain to me why the plastic cover over the headlight would be so damn expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said there'd be almost no point in getting new bulbs if the lens were blocking the light to begin with. This makes sense, but frankly I'm almost tempted to go ahead and just get new bulbs-- surely if they're bright enough they'll go through the cloudy lens? It's not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; clouded. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T19:32:02.977" Title="New headlight lenses?" Tags="|subaru|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2012-06-02T03:42:41.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason the lens clouds is that the lens is plastic and the UV rays from the sun cloud the lens'.Way back when, the government had a law that required the headlights to be standardized. Since the only lights available were sealed beam lamps the bulb,lens an reflector were changed when the bulb burned out. Since all cars used one of three lamps(hi beam,low beam or a hi-lo combination) they were cheap to manufacture.Some time in the eighties the law was changed to allow replaceable bulbs. Manufactuers could now design lights that were specific to each model. The result is because they are model/make specific they can be expensive.The good news is that because clouded headlights have become such a problem there is a fix. Go into any auto parts store and you will find a shelf full of polishes,cleaners and sealers to repair the lens'. Ask the counterman for a recommendation. They vary from polishers that fit on a drill to creams that require elbow grease. The prices range from  $10 to $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T04:36:17.313" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T04:36:17.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2012-06-02T04:01:15.000" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a real enviromental concern look for a hand cleaner that is citrus based.Wipe your hands on a disposable towel and throw it in the regular trash. Most of us just wash our hand and rinse it down the drain. The brake dust doesn't contain any grease or oils. It is a combination of metal particles,maybe some ceramic particles and binders that hold all the other pad materials together. If the brakes are really old, say thirty years they could contain asbestos. In the grand scheme of things though the brake dust is dipersed into the enviroment every time every single vehicle uses their brakes. The amount on your hands is pretty miniscule.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T04:01:15.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3685" CreationDate="2012-06-02T13:10:39.077" Score="5" ViewCount="7674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a duplicate of my car key ( 2001 E320) and I want to know if the key  (reprogrammed used key)  is original; manufactured legitimately by Mercedes or an authorized manufacturer. I didn't order one directly from the company, because it will take time to receive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I want to know if this is legal and if the company sells new programmable keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1877" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T16:27:02.320" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T18:29:55.197" Title="How to determine if a Mercedes key is original?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3659" CreationDate="2012-06-02T15:37:53.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a small clip behind the handle that retains it to the regulator shaft.You have several options to repair it. The first is to pry on the handle until you destroy the clip and replace it when you install the new handle. Using this method generally results in a damaged door panel also. Any auto parts store sells a door panel tool for under 10 bucks that removes the clip without damage to the door panel. The third option is to locate a window crank knob. Most auto parts stores have a display rack that has items from a company called &quot;HELP&quot; it is a division of Dorman. They specialize in small items that frequently break or get lost. You may be able to find a knob that can be installed without taking off the handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T15:37:53.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3659" CreationDate="2012-06-02T18:58:42.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a clip holding the handle on the shaft.  You can see it if you gently pry the opening between the base of the handle shaft and the trim piece attached to the door.  I've seen reports of removing it with a knitting needle or working a shop rag into the gap.  I use a wire coat hanger.  A thin piece of metal would be ideal, such as the tool mikes mentioned in his answer.  If you're trying to pull the clip off, there is a loop on the opposite site from the handle shaft.  If you're trying to push it off with something, you want the other side.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the clip is off, the handle comes right off the shaft.  As for a replacement part, I've seen the handles at Autozone that mikes mentioned.  They'd probably work just fine, but I went to the parts department at a Ford dealer and had them order two handles.  The part I got was F8RZ-5423342-AAB.  If I plug that into the Team Ford Parts Online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt;, that comes back as a crank handle for a 2000 Contour.  It's a very close match, I attribute the slight difference to sun fading on the old part.  The color I got was grey, the Team Ford listing says 'order by color'.  Another source would be a &quot;do it yourself&quot; junkyard such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picknpull.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pick 'n Pull&lt;/a&gt;.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for installing a new handle, just slide the handle onto the shaft with clip in place.  Rotate the handle to line up with the trim piece on the door and push gently.  With a little pressure, the clip will slide into place and hold the handle on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could find just the knob somewhere, it looks like it's possible to remove it from the handle, but I think it would be tricky without taking the handle off first.  I think you would need to push what was left of the old one off from the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T21:44:06.853" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:44:06.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3660" CreationDate="2012-06-02T19:17:54.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up going to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picknpull.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pick 'n Pull&lt;/a&gt; and grabbing the junction and hoses.  The clips are really single use, it's difficult or impossible to get one out completely intact.  I visited a dealer parts department to see if they could find a clip that would work from another application and ended up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=W701117-S300&amp;amp;make=Ford&amp;amp;action=oePartSearch&amp;amp;siteid=214270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;W701117-S300&lt;/a&gt;.  That seems to be a release cable clip for a 2012 focus.  It's a tight fit for the hose, but it fits into the hood and holds the hose in place.  I'm worried about it pinching or wearing a hole in the hose over time, but it holds to the hood much better than duct tape and the system still sprays.  There should be a diagram &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/parts/1998/FORD/CONTOUR/LX/?siteid=214270&amp;amp;vehicleid=1303951&amp;amp;section=BODY%20HARDWARE&amp;amp;group=WINDSHIELD&amp;amp;subgroup=WIPER%20&amp;amp;%20WASHER%20COMPONENTS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  The broken junction is item 12.  I'm wondering if the junction and clip from a 2000 Focus might work (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/parts/2000/FORD/FOCUS/LX/?siteid=214270&amp;amp;vehicleid=1401163&amp;amp;section=BODY%20HARDWARE&amp;amp;group=WINDSHIELD&amp;amp;subgroup=WIPER%20&amp;amp;%20WASHER%20COMPONENTS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;linkage&lt;/a&gt;).  I'll check it out the next time I'm at the boneyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T19:17:54.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2012-06-02T19:35:43.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a chipped key, the duplicate is probably not going to start the car, but it should open any mechanical locks the original did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know any way to tell a duplicate key from an original, chipped or not, unless the duplicate is obviously cut from a generic blank.  If you got a new key from a dealer, it will possibly be identical.  I suppose though, for an 11 year old vehicle such as yours, the replacement part might be a generic part and might be different from the one you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why making a copy of a key to a vehicle you legally own would be illegal, but I'm in the US and I'm not a lawyer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can possibly get a replacement key from a source other than the vehicle  manufacturer, but if it's a chipped key, it's possible it will have to be associated with your vehicle.  The association process, if necessary, could require hardware an independent shop might not have, you might end up at a dealer.  If no association process is necessary, the key (if chipped) will probably still need to be ordered for your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIN&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T19:35:43.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-02T23:29:05.627" Score="1" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_Corsa#Chevy_C2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chevy C2&lt;/a&gt; is and Opel Corsa designed by General Motors México. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The version I own  is model 2007 and its gear transmision is automatic.&#xA;I Bought this car used and I send it to the mechanic yo change its timing belt. But about 2.500 KM it get broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why could this happen? I have read that when this belt is broken the car could have several damage like broke its valves, but that if depends of the design of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this kind of motor what damage could have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank in advace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1879" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T04:58:31.730" Title="Chevy C2 brokes its valves when the timing belt is broken?" Tags="|timing-belt|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2012-06-03T03:01:55.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/parts/1998/FORD/CONTOUR/LX/?siteid=214270&amp;amp;vehicleid=1303951&amp;amp;diagram=JM95415&amp;amp;diagramCallOut=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;control cable&lt;/a&gt; (#10) that runs from the door handle / lock tab to the latch/lock assembly.  It's discontinued, not a single one in dealer inventory in the entire United States.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vpartsinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage Parts&lt;/a&gt; does not have any either.  I ended up grabbing one off of a wreck at the local &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.picknpull.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pick-n-Pull &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to it involves removing the door panel.  Remove the screws around the perimeter of the panel (front, back and bottom).  If the windows are manual, the crank handle has to come off (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3659/broken-window-crank-handle&quot;&gt;Broken window crank handle&lt;/a&gt;).  There is a trim piece (#5) held on by a screw under a cover.  You'll need a tiny common screwdriver to get the cover off.  There are two screws under a trim piece on the door handle (The one you grab when pulling the door shut.  That tiny screwdriver will come in handy again here).  The panel should come up and then out, leaving a foam cover.  Use a razor blade around the edges to remove it without tearing.  You'll probably have to take the speaker out to avoid tearing the foam (remove three screws, undo the wiring connector).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the really fun part.  You've got to get one end of the cable loose from the interior door handle (The one you use to release the lock/latch, #4), and the other end loose from the lock/latch.  There is a small cylinder at each end of the cable.  It comes out vertically on the door handle and horizontally at the lock / latch.  There is a plastic shield that you have to remove from the lock/latch mechanism to access that end of the cable.  Feel for a bolt near the end of the cable, the cover is held on that by some teeth.  You can pry it off with a screwdriver inserted between the clip holding on the cable cover at that end.  The annoying part is rotating the cylinder at each end so it will come free.  This is pretty easy at the door handle end, just move the handle / lock tab until the cable lines up with the gap in the retainer it's sitting in.  Use that small screwdriver again.  At the lock/latch end, this is really really annoying, since the gap is at 12 'o clock and the cable is coming out of a slit in the side at 3 'o clock.  Getting the cable off is easier since you're not worried about breaking anything.  Getting the new one back on will be harder since you're worried about breaking the cable.  Grab the piece of plastic the cable goes into and pull it toward the front of the door with one hand while you try and rotate the cable into the gap so you can remove it.  Ugh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try and take some pictures before I put the door panel back on.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took some crappy photos before putting the panel back on.  Here's a picture of the door with all the interior trim removed.  You can see the cable running from the handle to the lock/latch mechanism.  Well, actually, you're seeing the shield the cable runs through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YaLAH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;view of long control cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T20:04:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3672" CreationDate="2012-06-03T03:34:22.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is a non-interference design, you're fine.  If it's an interference design, you've probably got engine damage from the valves being open at the wrong time and being struck by the pistons.  To find out which type you have, you need to figure out which engine you have.  Search for 'gm VIN decoder' and enter your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIN&lt;/a&gt;.  Once you know the specific engine you have, you can see if you can find out if it's interference or non-interference.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-03T04:58:31.730" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T04:58:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24312" CreationDate="2012-06-03T16:07:43.433" Score="12" ViewCount="1982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to adjust four-body carbs by myself, in order to avoid spent money every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the basic rules, tools and secrets of synchronizing multiple carburetor bodies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T19:23:42.177" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T10:12:28.043" Title="Motorcycle Four Body Carburetor Synchronization Balancing" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|carb-synchronization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2012-06-03T16:23:01.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the lenses themselves are badly damaged, I would try to polish them up first. You can buy kits with most of the necessary polishes etc from a lot of detailing supply companies- the one I have experience with is the Meguiar's kit that comes with plastic polish and a polishing &quot;mop&quot; for use in your drill. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape and I'd get some 1500 to 2000 grit wet'n'dry emery paper. &lt;em&gt;Don't&lt;/em&gt; go any coarser than 1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the way I restored plastic headlight lenses the last time I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generously tape up the paintwork around the headlights with the blue tape as you want to make sure you're not getting any of the abrasive polish or the sandpaper on the paintwork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the sandpaper used wet, carefully sand the surface of the lens. You basically want to get the worst of the UV damage and road rash off the lens before using the polish. Some lenses have a clearcoat on them that breaks down over time and sanding them removes the broken down clearcoat as well. Stop when the lens is a uniform colour and uniformly matte. Don't go nuts at this stage :).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now use the polish to polish up the lens - it'll become clear again pretty quickly, but make sure it's uniform and that you don't leave any matte spots behind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally, put a coat of good wax on the lenses for additional UV protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing up the lenses will save you some cash over buying new lenses, but the downside is that you'll probably have to keep doing it once a year because they will cloud again. I'd take that over having to buy new lenses or light fixtures, though.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T16:23:01.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2012-06-03T22:13:53.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an attempt to answer my own question. This what I perceive but it may not be true. I wish someone could verify or invalidate this anecdotal observation of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving across the whole stretch of I-80 in Nebraska. Relatively flat terrain with some infrequent undulations. Ideal for hypermiling. The speed limit was 75 but I was driving at 55 mph. And the gas prices were $3.299.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I managed only to attain 40 mpg across Nebraska. In fact, it did not make any difference whether I drove at 40 mph or 60 mph. It was still 40 mpg. Though driving at 75 mph dropped it down to 30 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Honda Civic/Accord has a sticky gas pedal, someone told me. When you depress the gas pedal it will reach a point of impedance to your foot pressure. After which, you would have to press harder to inject more fuel into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here was my experiment&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;When I depress the gas pedal until the point of stickiness, I have anecdotal observation from the sound of the engine, that the engine is still idling at minimum fuel intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until my recent long distance drive, I had tried depressing the clutch to avoid engine drag to allow me to cruise at 40 mph. Which does get me 40 - 42 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, just for the past week, I decided to try never to disengage the clutch but to cruise on the 4th gear with the gas pedal depressed to the point of stickiness. There is some magic going on with the Honda sticky gas pedal. After 300 miles of driving that way over the past week, mostly cruising between 40 - 60 mph, I am getting 55 mpg. And, I was not revving up to 60 mph to cruise down to 40 mph. I was driving at constant speed depending on the speed limit of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting 55 mpg, without performing weird tricks like cruising to the traffic lights at 5 mph. I merely ensured I do not accelerate too quickly and kept a 500 ft separation from the car in front of me. Of course, Colorado drivers were showing their anger at me by deliberately zipping past me with their truck engine revved up or beeping at me for traveling at 50 mph on a 45 mph speed limit. I find it difficult to understand why they race to the red light at 40-50 mph to wait for it to turn green when you could cruise there? Nobody does that to you in the Puget sound peninsula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is, the sticky point on the Honda gas pedal is somehow connected to freeing the clutch to allow the car to cruise without being dragged down by an idling engine. If that is true, Honda is brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what else explanation could there be for my having achieved 55 mpg, cruising 40-60 mph without needing to step on my clutch? The point is - if I lifted my foot off the gas pedal completely, engine drag would slow the car down to 30 mph. So Honda's sticky gas pedal is a brilliant piece of engineering that I do not understand. And my car is not even a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps, Honda has already done what I asked in this question and I had not been aware of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="1865" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T03:41:22.533" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T03:41:22.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4074" CreationDate="2012-06-04T01:14:00.377" Score="2" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had read through 1999 Ford Escort Owner’s Manual, and have few questions regarding air conditioning modes. The manual’s section on climate control states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The air conditioning compressor will operate in all modes except [floor] and [panel]. However, the air conditioning will only function if the outside&#xA;  temperature is about 10°C (50°F) or higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal that A/C is engaged in most climate control modes outside of clearly marked [A/C], and [Max A/C]? Is it model-specific feature, Ford deal, or many manufacturers A/C units work the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From maintenance standpoint (wear and tear of the A/C system, extra load on the engine etc.) does simply engaging the compressor and “functioning A/C” differ much, if at all?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, how big is the difference between [A/C] and [Max A/C] modes? Somewhat counter-intuitively, [Max A/C] is more economical (it is obvious once you know that it is the only mode that recirculates interior cool air, it is just not obvious to know that), but how much more?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand the idea behind using A/C in [Defrost] mode (A/C removes considerably moisture from the air, thus it is used to prevent fogging of a windscreen), but why is A/C used in combined [Floor and Panel] mode? Especially, since individually [Floor] and [Panel] are A/C-free, as mentioned above?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T17:05:32.857" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T04:48:44.357" Title="Understanding NA Ford Escort air conditioning modes" Tags="|ford|ac|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="788" CreationDate="2012-06-04T05:25:27.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just did a coolant change on the other half's 330i and had the same problem. Hers is fitted with an oil cooler at the bottom of the expansion tank, just push a small clip up and remove oil cooler,and this will drain tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1881" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T12:46:32.163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T12:46:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3682" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:15:57.763" Score="8" ViewCount="135559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want a new key for my Mercedes Benz and I've heard that you can get a used smart key for much cheaper than a new one from a licensed Mercedes mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reuse an already programmed Mercedes smart key fob? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard a Mercedes can be programmed to accept a new key, doesn't that mean a used key will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:57:09.850" Title="Can I reprogram a used Mercedes smart key?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3681" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:15:57.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any key that has already been programmed to a Mercdes &lt;strong&gt;will never work in any other car&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a key has been &quot;flashed&quot; or programmed to one car you can't reprogram the key. Mercedes keys pair &quot;for life&quot;, so once you stick a key in the ignition and it works, it's never going to work in another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that a Mercedes can accept new keys; when you get a new key you usually get an &quot;additional&quot; key, which &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/122715-post4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pairs with the car and programs very quickly&lt;/a&gt;. You can have multiple keys that work with a car, but you'll have to get them ordered from Mercedes; dealers can't make them up and they won't have them on hand. You'll have to place an order &lt;strong&gt;with your VIN number&lt;/strong&gt; for them to send you a compatible, fresh key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been claims that you can reprogram a smart key but this is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; true once the key has been paired. If you order online and get a used, preprogrammed Mercedes key, it's not going to work. It might &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3684/1817&quot;&gt;not even work with the car it was originally programmed for&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T14:30:18.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3684" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:29:41.067" Score="10" ViewCount="116030" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I lose a Mercedes smart key fob, how do I get a replacement? Is there anything I should do to prevent the old key from being used if it was stolen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T15:52:49.030" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T07:26:52.877" Title="I lost my Mercedes smart key, how do I get a new one?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:29:41.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to need a new key, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3681/can-i-reprogram-a-used-mercedes-smart-key&quot;&gt;used, already programmed keys will not work&lt;/a&gt;. You'll have to get your dealer to order the key as they're not keys your dealer or mechanic can make. You'll need to know your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and bring two forms of ID (in my experience) to get a new key; they're very picky about giving out new blank keys, so you need to make sure you have the proper information and go to an authorized Mercedes Benz dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking with your shop, make sure you tell them you lost your key as you probably need a &lt;strong&gt;Replacement key&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/122715-post4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Replacement keys override previous keys&lt;/a&gt; which means your other key won't work if you find it again. This is important because if someone stole your last key, they can open and start your car freely until your car has a replacement key programmed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you might find the key again you can also have the mechanics disable the old key's code with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_EIS_on_a_Mercedes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Electronic Ignition Switch&lt;/a&gt; (EIS) system; they need special hardware to do this so you can't disable the key yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacement keys take much longer to program (around &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/122715-post4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;90 minutes&lt;/a&gt; or more) than Additional keys which work right out of the box; you can plug in an Additional key matching your VIN and the key should work right after you plug it into the ignition. Because of this you might want to just disable your past key and get an Additional key if you need to use your car as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T14:48:29.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2012-06-04T15:46:00.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the Marecedes &quot;Smart Keys&quot; are proprietary, only Mercedes's manufactoring partners make them; since they're programmed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/122715-post4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electronic codes&lt;/a&gt; only Mercedes makes them and they're very protective over who they'll give a key to, since a blank key will program itself to any compatible Mercedes and become the key for that car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I really wouldn't recommend ever getting a key except from the dealer (and I'd want it in writing that if your key doesn't work you get a refund). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key should look like one of the following models depending on year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ib8fI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a newer model I'll try and get a picture of too. Which model it is doesn't matter as long as the internal bits work. You'll need the metal blade &quot;emergency key&quot; too, which is just a standard laser cut key, but it needs to fit into the fob so you need the right part number; if you have the wrong emergency key it won't fit into the fob and without fitting them together you can't put the fob on a keychain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be leery of this deal, but if they do in fact have one of the above key fobs, unprogrammed, the only thing that matters is that it works in your car. If there are &quot;fake&quot; keys out there, they won't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T15:46:00.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-04T15:51:25.970" Score="4" ViewCount="6679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a '72 FJ40 and realized that three out the four (drum) brake cylinder's are seized and one of the grease seals is leaking bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have to replace the brake cylinder's, I am wondering if I should, instead, take the money that I would have spent on the new cylinder's and use it towards a disc brake conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the Pros/Cons with doing a disc brake conversion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I convert the rear drums to disc, too? (Assuming I can afford it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I need to get new wheels if I convert to disc brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I plan on staying true to &quot;stock&quot; on my FJ40 - Will converting to disc brakes take away that &quot;stock&quot; vibe? or is a disc break&#xA;conversion a welcome addition regardless if it wasn't a stock option&#xA;back in the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are disc brake kit conversions the ideal solution? or is there a better way of going about the conversion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1884" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:18:51.853" Title="1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Disc Brake Conversion" Tags="|brakes|toyota|conversion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3688" CreationDate="2012-06-04T17:41:24.543" Score="6" ViewCount="14021" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do they use some sort of wireless protocol, such as Bluetooth? I can't imagine there is enough room to have physical connections for all of the controls that would also allow for the full rotation of the steering wheel. I am specifically interested in the Sony radio in a 2010 Ford Flex, but any information would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="940" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T14:34:55.177" Title="How do the audio controls on the steering wheel communicate with the radio?" Tags="|ford|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2012-06-04T19:39:42.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bGuV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clockspring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/shop/-part_Air_Bag_Clockspring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture above the yellow wires are for the airbag, all the others are for steering wheel controls. Some of the controls that run through the clockspring include horn, cruise, phone, and radio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tXtPBWaKZI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video show the disassembly of a typical clockspring&lt;/a&gt;, I &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; recommend doing repairs to one of these as the guy in the video suggests, I only posted the link so you could see how it works on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to have a separate wire for each button you want to control, below is pictured one example of how you can use just two wires to control several switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SIBpp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different switches give a different resistance allowing the computer to tell which switch as been pressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could also use multiplexing to communicate several commands over a single wire, it works similar to the way computers communicate over a LAN. It's not used in steering wheel controls to my knowledge so I won't go into detail here of how those systems work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T19:39:42.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4364" CreationDate="2012-06-04T21:38:12.390" Score="1" ViewCount="1988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW E46 with EOM xenon headlight, but they stopped working. I checked and BMW xenon headlights have two pieces: balast and igniter. Is it possible to determine which one is broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&amp;amp;mospid=47725&amp;amp;btnr=63_0550&amp;amp;hg=63&amp;amp;fg=05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scheme&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9HY2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scheme of BMW E46 EOM xenon headlights&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;balast is 15, igniter is 16&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T22:03:23.207" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T07:55:42.193" Title="xenon balast and igniter testing" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3709" CreationDate="2012-06-04T22:05:12.173" Score="0" ViewCount="2571" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi all I need to find ignition wire as I need to connect t to my ower supply. This should be behind the key lock right? How do I approach to it and how to know which one is right wire? &#xA;Truck s Mercedes Atego 2005 year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T18:09:31.673" Title="How to find ignition wire on mercedes truck" Tags="|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-05T03:31:28.590" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, today I was driving and all of the sudden my front passenger tire blew out. I pull over to find out that I ran over some piece of metal and the tire is torn unrepairable. Luckily there was a tires plus right around the corner and I got the tire replaced. Now, after they replaced the tire, and I don't know if this is from the blow out or not, but when the car is under 700 (yes seven-hundred not thousand) RPM's it shakes, but if you turn on the air conditioner it hits a sweet spot and idles perfectly fine. Obviously this is negligible when actually driving due to the RPMs being higher. I don't know if this matters either, but it is fine when in park or neutral, but the car idles at about 1k RPM's in those gears. The car is an automatic by the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T13:31:38.227" Title="2001 Saturn L-200 replacing one tire" Tags="|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2404" CreationDate="2012-06-05T03:56:02.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is accelerating and the transmission is in gear, then the car should accelerate. If not, then you have a transmission problem. I'm not sure about Audi's, but what you describe sounds sort of like your torque converter (if you have one) is slipping under high load. If it is an &quot;automatic manual&quot; (or semi-automatic, depending on your preferred terminology), then your clutch is slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T03:56:02.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3101" CreationDate="2012-06-05T04:03:56.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a small misfire problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an intermittently failing sensor (specifically, when cold). I would check and test any intake air temperature sensor, water/engine temperature sensor, and mass airflow sensor. Any serious malfunction should show up via the check engine light, since your car should be OBD-II. If so, getting a code reader should point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it may be a physical problem with the engine, such as low compression on one cylinder that, when warmed up, raises enough to eliminate any misfiring condition. Unlikely, but a compression test is quick and easy to eliminate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T04:03:56.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2012-06-05T04:08:36.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;His idea isn't a bad one. Brake noise can be caused by minor debris/rust on the rotor surface, pad misalignment, or missing pad shims. If you haven't driven in in a while and then the problem appeared, you may have some surface rust that formed and has gotten stuck on the rotor/pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try his suggestion. If it were me, I would try braking hard at speed (45 mph, say) to really heat up the brakes and hopefully burn off anything in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An empty parking lot is perfect to do this without having someone rear-end you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T04:08:36.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-05T05:33:04.680" Score="3" ViewCount="7422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally added oil to my coolant reservoir. I have a BMW 325i.  The oil light came on and I figured my oil may be low. When the oil was added the oil light warning went off.  However, the service engine light came on. It was at this time, I checked the manual and discovered that although the cap where I added the oil stated use ATF oil only, per the manual this is the cap for coolant. Please tell me just how much trouble I'm in and what the cost will be to fix it? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1886" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T15:03:23.760" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T00:54:34.683" Title="accidentally placed oil in the coolant reservoir in a BMW 325i. How do I fix it and what is the cost?" Tags="|oil|bmw|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2012-06-05T08:43:33.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you could try driving in reverse at 5-10 mph and braking hard. I had a piece of grit stuck in mine once and it made a very strange squeak. It didn't come out under braking forwards, but dislodged itself when I went backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T08:43:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8164" CreationDate="2012-06-05T09:06:33.987" Score="3" ViewCount="2579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a battery today for my scooter. The mechanic fitted the battery into the scooter and it seems to be running fine. But when I noticed the battery's box later on, it said &quot;Dry Charged&quot; and on further reading in the manual, I figured out that the battery would have needed some sort of &quot;electrolyte&quot; and also an &quot;initial charging before it could be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back and enquired in the battery shop about it, and he said it's not needed - that I could use it without any initial steps. But I'm worried..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I continue to use it in this &quot;Dry&quot; state, what would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pradyumna&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1887" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:47:28.563" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:47:28.563" Title="What happens if a dry charged battery is used without electrolyte?" Tags="|battery|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2012-06-05T12:32:30.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very first thing that you should check is whether you actually made a mistake and, if so, which one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cap that says &quot;ATF oil only&quot; is for automatic transmission fluid.  If you're adding engine oil to the transmission, that's going to make your transmission very unhappy.  It is fixable: you'll need to drain the transmission fluid and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually did add oil to your coolant reservoir, there was a similar situation discussed here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2951/accidentally-poured-engine-oil-into-the-coolant-reservoir&quot;&gt;Accidentally poured engine oil into the coolant reservoir&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the coolant will need to be flushed and replaced.  This isn't going to kill the car but it's best to keep driving to an absolute minimum until you've flushed the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T12:32:30.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2012-06-05T15:12:36.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not surprised it shakes, being under 700 rpms sounds a bit on the low side for an engine that small. I'd expect it to be around 750 rpms normally.  You may have a faulty Idle Air Controller (or something similar, not familiar with Saturns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T15:12:36.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3701" CreationDate="2012-06-05T17:28:07.183" Score="2" ViewCount="6963" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Japanese car that recently developed a slow leak in the right rear tire.  One tire shop told us that we needed new tires on the back, but the justification sounded weak so I drove it for a while longer until I got fed up with pumping air into the tire every weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the tires to another shop, the technician pointed out chrome that was coming off the bead seat of the rim.  These are factory stock rims on a six-year-old luxury sedan, so I didn't expect these kind of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWkFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chrome flaking off&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some might contend that this could have been mechanical damage during a tire replacement, or residual issues after someone tried to seal the tire against the flaking rim (only causing more damage later); regardless of the cause, I'm loosing my desire to continue using chrome rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, are there disadvantages of going with aluminum alloy rims?  I hope to pull some off a similar model from a junkyard if possible, but I want to be sure I'm not getting a different kind of problem going this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="863" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T06:24:22.607" Title="Durability of chrome rims vs aluminum alloy" Tags="|tires|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:30:27.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that Chrome is the worst possible case, either aluminum/alloy or steel should be much better.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T18:30:27.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2012-06-05T21:24:23.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, high pressure hoses will have crimped connections on them. The small clamp connectors are on the pump feed and return hoses, which are low pressure lines. They typically don't leak as often as the high pressure ones do. The high pressure line, according to the diagram you posted, comes from the PS pump and enters the rack. There is a rubber section of this hose that may have leaks forming at crimp connections. There are also two high-pressure solid metal lines connecting one end of the rack to the other. They can leak at the connections as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would clean as much as I could reach. Wind and turbulence can do weird things to leaks at speed, and will typically splatter fluid everywhere making it hard to determine where the leak is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a fast leak, have someone operate the steering lock-to-lock (turn all the way one way, then all the way to the other) while you look under the car for a new leak forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's slow, clean it the same, but you'll just have to check every so often to see where the fluid starts near.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T21:24:23.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-06T02:23:17.453" Score="4" ViewCount="3859" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start off, I had my oil changed at the dealship last month.  The dealer told me that the car needs new joints and control arm bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've noticed that sometimes there is a click that I hear from the front of the car when I accelerate from a stop.  What could be causing this?  Is it cause for alarm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T09:18:20.013" Title="Why does my 2005 Volvo S60 make a clicking sound when accelerating from a stop?" Tags="|suspension|volvo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2012-06-06T10:52:44.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you trying to power? The ignition wires are generally only intended to power the ignition - if you want to run anything else you are better off taking an appropriate feed from the fuse box, or a relayed feed from the battery, depending on the power draw of the intended application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the best place to look is a wiring diagram for the truck in question - usually found in the back of any decent workshop manual. This will give you the colour codes of the wires you are looking for - ignition-fed live feeds are usually red, but this does vary by manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T10:52:44.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3691" CreationDate="2012-06-06T13:31:38.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took it to the shop, broke an engine mount bracket which is causing the shake. Also, the tubes are torn on the AC. – Cody Bennett just now edit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T13:31:38.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2012-06-06T14:16:03.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could buy a pricey headlight lens cleaning kit, but believe it or not, for a quick fix,  toothpaste works almost as well.  Non-whitening, Baking soda based types are best.  It's a good idea to wax them once you've polished them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKAshYmrExc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKAshYmrExc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="492" LastEditorUserId="492" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T14:31:19.260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T14:31:19.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3664" CreationDate="2012-06-06T19:32:02.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an additional suggestion (though further from what you're asking), I find the lens polishing to be fighting an uphill battle. I do it 2-3 times a year in my Jetta, and I detest dim headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HID conversion kits have really come down in price, and if you search eBay for a true HID kit (should come with bulbs and external ballasts, not just bulbs) then your headlights can be all sorts of foggy and you'll still have better visibility than clear normal ones. I was able to pick up a pair for $65 and wouldn't go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T19:32:02.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2012-06-06T19:47:42.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't necessarily jump to the stereo wire; this would depend on where your unit will be mounted and what it is. As stated; you shouldn't draw excessive amounts of power (&gt;2-3 Amps or so) and it should be fused. If you will be needing lots of power then use the ignition wire to switch a relay with battery power, not to provide power itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mounting it behind the stereo; then by all means use the stereo. Yellow is usually constant 12V from the battery (unless Mercedes is different in this regard) and Red is usually switched (only provides 12V when the ignition is in Accessory or On).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other reasons you would not want to use either of these; first if the unit will not be anywhere near the stereo and second if you need ignition-on only (off for accessory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first stop would be the fusebox. That will contain most sources of power to tap into; accessory and ignition-on, ignition-on, and start. You'll need to find an appropriate fuse (avoid important ones like 'fuel inj.', etc.) and tap into the fused side if you want to do this; they even make terminals for such a job that straddle the fuse pin and present a terminal above the fuse. If you get lucky, there are many times empty slots with a live pin on one side that is the type you are looking for, so you can add your own fuse and not piggyback on another circuit's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T19:47:42.590" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-07T00:01:13.450" Score="1" ViewCount="4789" Body="&lt;p&gt;When stopping for gas on the way home, I noticed a red fluid running out from the front of my car.  It had a reddish tint to it and was coming out from under the passenger side wheel.  I checked the anti-freeze resevoir while at the gas station and it was completely full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove my car home (less then a mile), and left it running while I got out and looked under the car; there was no drip.  However after idling for a few minutes it had a steady drip of fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the resevoir again, it was still at the fill line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a anti-freeze leak, or could it be something else?&#xA;How do I determine the origin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely an anti-freeze leak, I just went out and checked and the resevoir was entirely empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 2 questions:&#xA;1.  What could cause that?&#xA;2.  Can I fill it and drive it to a mechanic in the morning and be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1891" LastEditorUserId="1891" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T00:30:23.583" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T10:07:38.280" Title="How to determine the cause of leak in a Mazdaspeed 3?" Tags="|mazda|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3715" CreationDate="2012-06-07T00:35:18.230" Score="3" ViewCount="2294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically referring to the loss due to the pistons pulling air through a mostly closed throttle while cruising at highway speeds in a gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example, I've always wondered why this wouldn't be more economical fuel-wise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add another gear to the gearbox, say a sixth gear to a 5-speed car. This gear would be useless for accelerating whatsoever; it would be such a high ratio that at 65 MPH, wide-open throttle, it would hold the vehicle at a steady pace or only slightly accelerate. This would reduce much of the pumping losses from making the pistons suck through a nearly closed throttle, and would seemingly allow for better fuel economy, due in part from both 1) lower RPM so less friction loss and 2) less pumping loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware other things may need to accompany this; for example WOT in 6th gear should not richen the mixture as WOT does normally, etc., so let's say the car was produced from the factory with the computer and associated electronics accommodating the fuel-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this has never been implemented. Is it just not efficient? If not, why not? Or would it be an irritation to consumers that expect a more responsive car, requiring a shift to accelerate? Too expensive to add the gear, or just never been tried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T19:14:53.673" Title="How much efficiency is robbed from 'pumping loss,' if any?" Tags="|fuel-system|transmission|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1897" CreationDate="2012-06-07T02:54:40.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sensor was replaced and you still have problems, then it's either the sensor, the sensor's circuit, or the ECU. Since it's a new sensor, I would check the circuit. If the mechanic it is at cannot do this, then your best bet is to head to a Nissan dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current mechanic will likely need the factory service manual for this model to properly check the circuit, which some mechanics do carry depending on how specialized they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T02:54:40.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3714" CreationDate="2012-06-07T06:56:16.393" Score="16" ViewCount="48301" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past month or so my 2003 Honda Accord squeaks in the morning when I start driving to work. After a couple of minutes of driving the squeak stops. I'm pretty sure it's from the belt area. What can be causing this? How do I remedy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T17:23:40.617" Title="What is the cause of belt squeak in the morning?" Tags="|noise|belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3713" CreationDate="2012-06-07T08:05:00.990" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause for this is that you have some condensation built up overnight on either the belt or one of the pulley wheels, and until this has evaporated the belt will be able to slip a little, causing a squeak. Once the engine warms up, the condensation is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a new, well tensioned belt, this shouldn't matter, however belts age and stretch, which makes them more likely to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended fixes include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the belt tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace the belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or possibly just give the belt a good clean, but the first two are better solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T08:05:00.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3711" CreationDate="2012-06-07T08:44:59.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some solutions have been implemented - input airflow is reduced in many engines (especially turbo versions) so you aren't actually having to send a lot of air through the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case the 'suck' when the throttle is only slightly open is minimal, so you aren't losing a lot of energy with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would waste more energy having to use a wide open throttle for cruising - instead many cars have an overdrive. In my car, 6th gear at motorway speeds runs at about 2,200rpm which is hardly doing any work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T08:44:59.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3724" CreationDate="2012-06-07T08:58:49.970" Score="7" ViewCount="44156" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;whether or not to downshift a manual transmission&lt;/a&gt; has been addressed, but what about automatics? I personally always downshift when coming to a stop, and my latest vehicle (Ford Focus) has a Tiptronic-style gear selection mode that I use regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I am referring here to a non-emergency stop in clear weather and level ground. Of course I downshift on steep declines and I personally prefer to hold a lower gear when in challenging driving situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ill-advised to downshift an automatic transmission in normal driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T21:36:49.937" Title="Downshifting an automatic" Tags="|shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3710" CreationDate="2012-06-07T10:07:38.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the engine hasn't overheated, you should be fine. If it has, you may be looking at an expensive repair bill...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two likely sources of a coolant leak - a burst hose or a leaking radiator. Open the bonnet and check any hoses you can see for either signs of damage, or signs of the leaking fluid - Red OAT often leaves a slight orangey deposit as it evaporates, so you may be able to spot where it has leaked from, or follow the trail of fluid back. Bear in mind that a small leak in a damaged hose may not be obvious to look at, so you might bnot be able to spot it easily - and it doesn't need to be a big leak to lose a lot of coolant. Radiator damage is harder to spot, but again the tell-tale deposits may give you an idea (assuming you can see the rad of course, and it isn't hidden behind loads of other stuff)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't try and run the engine with no coolant in it, as it will overheat very quickly! If it has lost that much coolant in that short a distance, I would not recommend driving it anywhere until the leak is fixed, although for a smaller leak I'd refill with water and bleed the system, drive it to a close place of repair and then flush it through and refill with the correct coolant mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T10:07:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2481" CreationDate="2012-06-07T10:14:57.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pedals are higher to prevent accidental accelerator depression when braking.  Brake pedals should be adjusted up as the braking material wears away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1892" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T10:14:57.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2012-06-07T11:14:35.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welsh plugs are mainly made of carbon steel, and with out antifreeze in the coolant water, they corrode quite fast with the engine heating and cooling. My brand new 3 year old Citi Sport has a leaking head welsh plug because I did not top up with antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1893" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T05:55:09.830" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T05:55:09.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3711" CreationDate="2012-06-07T11:55:08.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple reasons (mostly apply to automatics though)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go WOT to maintain speed, there's nothing left for passing/going uphill/to tell an auto to downshift.  Also, the car would be in open loop mode and waste fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the car in closed loop, you're going to max out at around 75% throttle.  Any time you did pass or have to climb a hill, you'd have to downshift and/or go WOT too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;social&quot; reason would be that people like to have the feeling of there being a lot of pedal left/&quot;reserve power&quot;.  Having the gas pedal down when just doing normal highway speeds is not what the normal/uninformed consumer wants to be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumping losses do seem to be measureable, at least on my car.  If I mash the gas to 50-75% starting from stop lights, but still shift at the same low RPMs as if I was accelerating slowly I can consistently show a gain of 2 MPG on my daily drive over my normal driving style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T11:55:08.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3732" CreationDate="2012-06-07T15:50:50.003" Score="13" ViewCount="110228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my 2002 Jetta TDI wagon to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yelp.com/biz/best-service-and-repair-seattle-2&quot;&gt;neighborhood shop&lt;/a&gt; about 10 miles, 24 hours ago. They supposedly changed the oil, but the color is very dark, almost black. Definitely not light-colored/transparent. The oil change was performed along with other work (replacing alternator &amp;amp; brake pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd run it back right away without a thought, but I'm wondering if this is normal for a 10-year old diesel car with 175,000 miles on it. Last oil change was made around 10,000 miles ago. The engine is original, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is relevant, but I always have 5% to 99% biodiesel and Diesel Kleen in the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1894" LastEditorUserId="1894" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T04:51:23.177" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T02:06:21.323" Title="Is it normal for the oil to be dark in color right after an &quot;oil change&quot; in a 10-year old diesel car?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|diesel|tdi|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2012-06-07T16:02:16.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fresh oil is a light tan in color. There shouldn't be enough old oil left to make the oil on the stick dark. Either they forgot, or you got screwed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(ah, ha! I've never owned a Diesel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1895" LastEditorUserId="1895" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T05:39:06.230" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T05:39:06.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3768" CreationDate="2012-06-07T20:29:50.963" Score="1" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit ago, I went out to my van (1998 Toyota Sienna), unlocked, and got in with nothing unusual.  When I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the on position, all the appropriate lights came on and the accessories started up just fine.  When I turned it to start the car, everything went dead except the alarm system which decided to start sounding off (would like to kill the alarm too, but that's another problem).  After I got the alarm shut off, I noticed the headlights were dim (set to turn on and off automatically with the ignition/door), but everything else came back.  Shut everything down, turned on and off the alarm to make sure, and then tried again with the same results.  Since the lights were dim, and the alarm started sounding, I'm wondering if this is a dying battery problem (and resetting the alarm to keep going off), or if my alarm is dying and trying to take the rest of the van with it.  Any ideas?  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;Got the car to Les Schwab last night.  The battery tested good.  We noticed two things that seem to point to a possible partial solution, either individually or together.  1.  My fob's battery had died, and replacing the battery let it work again.  2.  There is a lot of corrosion and gunk on the negative battery cable head.  I'm thinking that replacing that head should help, but not sure yet.  We also did find out that the alarm system is factory instlled, and the battery appears to be about 3 years old to my eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T16:09:14.043" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T22:29:25.910" Title="Alarm system appears to be going out?" Tags="|toyota|battery|alarm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2012-06-08T04:04:37.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's start by listing some facts that we know about the brakes and the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brakes in a car are designed to stop the vehicle, both in emergency situations as well as under normal driving conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The automatic transmission in modern automobiles is optimized to keep the engine running at speeds that balance fuel economy with engine output. If an engine runs at too low an RPM or too high an RPM, this output is reduced, and the engine will consume more fuel as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 2 and 1 (or L) on the selector lever in an automatic transmission, and the lower gears on the Tiptronic gear selector lever, are designed to give the driver more control over the vehicle in certain circumstances. For instance, 2 is recommended when starting on snow or ice to avoid spinning the wheels, and 2 or 1 are recommended when driving down steep grades to prevent premature brake failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are the reasons why a driver would &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; more control over the transmission:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1 - Safety: Prevent brake failure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When traveling down steep hills, the continuous pressure applied to the brakes in order to maintain speed causes the brake pads to heat up. Using engine braking on steep hills is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://travel.thefuntimesguide.com/2005/07/downhilldriving.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good idea for the following reasons&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) save your brakes a lot of unnecessary wear &amp;amp; tear&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;b) actually HAVE brakes at the end of the hill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that the main reason we use engine braking on downhill slopes is to prevent the loss of arguably one of the most critical safety systems in the vehicle, the ability to stop! In other words, in this situation, we trade some wear and tear and loss of fuel economy in exchange for protecting the braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/articles/authored/engine-braking-pros-and-cons&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engine Braking Pros/Cons&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving in a mountainous area, braking continuously during a long downhill stretch really heats up your brake components. In this case, it makes sense to alternate between using the brakes and engine braking. If you actually smell your brakes heating up, you should definitely engine brake. If possible, pull off to the side of the road to let the brakes cool off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2 - Safety: Prevent loss of control on slippery terrain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with braking, running the engine in a lower gear is done as a safety precaution on slippery terrain. Once again, we trade wear and tear on the drivetrain in exchange for decreasing the risk of loss of life, limb, or property, which could occur if the operator loses control of the vehicle and careens into a person, another car, or some other object that creates immediate damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While engine braking, whether it be in a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission or manual transmission, is primarily used for safety reasons, your specific question is more geared towards whether or not using engine braking as a standard approach to stopping the vehicle is a sound idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saving money?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason people engine brake is to save wear and tear on the brake system. Using the engine to slow the car can mean longer lives for brake pads, discs, rotors, and other expensive brake system parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, increased revving puts added strain on a car's drive train — not only the engine and transmission, but also parts like U joints. Repairs to any of these parts are far more costly than brake repairs. So in the long run, most experts agree that engine braking will probably cost more than using the brakes.&#xA;One argument against engine braking is that it wastes fuel because it causes the engine to rev up. However, this applies mostly to older cars with carburetors. For newer cars with fuel injectors, the increase in fuel consumption is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you approach this purely from a financial standpoint, it doesn't make sense to use engine braking in your daily driving. The amount of wear on the brakes, under normal driving conditions, is negligible, but the tradeoff is more wear and tear on potentially more expensive components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, we know more fuel is consumed when the engine isn't running at it's optimum speed for power production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, engine braking won't do any immediate damage to your vehicle, whether it be automatic or manual. But while it makes sense to use engine braking for safety reasons, it doesn't necessarily make sense to do so for purely financial reasons considering the increased costs and transfer of ear and tear to the engine, transmission, u-joins, and other components involved in powering the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T04:04:37.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-08T07:37:50.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_%28mechanics%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia Article on Transmission Mechanics&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often, a transmission will have multiple gear ratios (or simply &quot;gears&quot;), with the ability to switch between them as speed varies. This switching may be done manually (by the operator), or automatically. Directional (forward and reverse) control may also be provided. Single-ratio transmissions also exist, which simply change the speed and torque (and sometimes direction) of motor output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting gears is part of the standard operation of a vehicle to maintain the engine's optimum power output, fuel efficiency, and overall health. However, operators can shift gears manually in both manual and automatic transmissions equipped vehicles, for safety reasons, when operating on slippery terrain or steep downgrades. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3716/86&quot;&gt;Downshifting an automatic&lt;/a&gt; is an example of a question with this tag, and the question covers the mechanical effects of a certain type or style of vehicle operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are other &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/shifting&quot;&gt;example questions&lt;/a&gt; that involve shifting early, late, shifting when cold, gear grinding when cold, and other questions related to problems with transmission gear shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T08:20:41.870" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T08:20:41.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-06-08T07:37:50.940" Score="0" Body="&quot;Shifting&quot; refers to the act of cycling through different sized gears in a transmission with the goal of maintaining the engine's optimum power output while the vehicle is accelerating. Shifting gears is a manual process when the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission. Automatic transmissions shift gears automatically and attempt to optimize engine performance" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T18:21:04.563" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:21:04.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2012-06-08T09:47:13.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good trick is to put a small mark on the filter, e.g. a scratch or bit of marker pen that you can identify, but isn't obvious. When you get the car back, check to see that the mark is gone (i.e. they have changed the filter). If the mark is still there, you still have the old filter, and you know you've been screwed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T09:47:13.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-08T15:25:31.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Cadillac SRX V8 AWD is making a rattling sound when idle, and mostly or completely goes away when RPMs increase. From what I've found, this is a bad catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is under warranty still for this, when do I need to get it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that we have to take it 200 miles to get it replaced at the dealer. Is it bad to drive it at interstate or highway speeds to get there? How soon should this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T19:02:28.173" Title="Catalytic converter possibly bad. How soon do I need to replace?" Tags="|replace|catalytic-converter|rattle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2012-06-08T17:07:07.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an issue with these symptoms on my Chrysler minivan.  The problem turned out to be a bad battery.  It seemed to be ok, but was making intermittent contact because the negative stud was loose, and eventually broke off in my hand.  Once I put a new battery in, everything went back to normal and the van has been running great since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T17:07:07.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3729" CreationDate="2012-06-08T19:02:28.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if the internals of the cat may have broken loose. The catalytic converter is already broke so you can't make it any worse. The worst thing that can happen is it could the piece that is rattling may break free and plug the exhaust leaving you stranded. I would also ask the dealer if they will cover potential problems of a clogged muffler later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T19:02:28.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2012-06-08T20:40:28.083" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Diesel, which means that you usually have a high detergent oil in an engine that dumps combustion by-products like soot into the oil as part of its normal operation. Given the age of the vehicle I'm not surprised that the oil has noticeably darkened after 10 miles - one of the older Diesels I owned a while back did that during the time it took to run up the engine after the oil change and fill the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when changing the oil, you'll never get all the oil out of the engine so the new engine oil will mix with a little oil that already contains combustion byproducts. This is nothing to worry about (it's usually a very small amount of oil that is left in the engine), but it'll also lead to oil darkening fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T17:56:53.323" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T17:56:53.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3738" CreationDate="2012-06-08T22:01:31.393" Score="1" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Toyota Tacoma 2008. It has a one inch lift kit with aftermarket rims and tires. The problem is that the front shocks squeak loudly when going over a curb for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on the source of the squeak, or thoughts on what I can look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1899" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T17:15:19.883" Title="Toyota Tacoma squeaky front shock" Tags="|toyota|suspension|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T11:59:17.187" Score="4" ViewCount="9819" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Focus 2011, after flat battery will not start, get the message: FORD KEY FREE IGNITION PRESS POWER OFF OK This is the keyless start version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1901" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T09:49:48.277" Title="My keyless Car won't start after having a flat battery, message:FORD KEY FREE IGNITION PRESS POWER OFF OK" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5278" CreationDate="2012-06-09T12:27:57.640" Score="1" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title says it all, what are the speaker sizes in a volkswagen golf coupe from 1991?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T15:34:54.177" Title="What speaker sizes are in a 1991 VW Polo coupe?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3740" CreationDate="2012-06-09T13:35:33.633" Score="4" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone has tried any of these commercial clay block paint oxide remover things... If so; do they work? Do they work on all paint types? Can I just use regular $1 a pound sculpting/pottery clay, or do I need the magic of the $20/150gram block at my local auto store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1850" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T19:24:23.377" Title="Clay block effectiveness" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3733" CreationDate="2012-06-09T17:15:19.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the shocks are an aftermarket brand they may have urethane mounting bushings. Urethane generally offer longer life and better performance. The draw back is that they can some times squeek. During installation a dab of grease will abate this for awhile. You can try to add a little WD-40 to see if it helps. If this resolves the issue remove the affected shock mount and apply some white grease and reinstall it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T17:15:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2012-06-09T17:33:33.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried it many years ago on an Imron paint job. The finish felt smoother than before and the sliding rag test was better. I didn't see any visual difference. In after thought I wondered about the grit that the clay is picking up. Since you reuse the clay wouldn't the clay hold the grit and eventually act as an abrasive? It appeared to do no harm but I didn't think the results justified the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T17:33:33.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2012-06-09T19:24:23.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do work for what they're intended (removing contamination on the paint, overspray etc) and no, as far as I know they're not the same as pottery clay but have some other ingredients in them. Rubbing pottery clay on your car will more or less give you the same result as rubbing sand on it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that using a clay bar only make sense as part of a full detail. You wash the car thoroughly, then you clay it, polish it, wax &amp;amp; seal it. Clay will not remove oxidised paint (that's not what it's intended use is) but it'll remove contaminants on the paint reasonably safely that so you don't end up either trying to remove it using polish or worse, scratch the paint while polishing. Clay also pretty much strips any existing wax and sealant off the paint so if you're not going through the full routine you're likely to make things worse, not better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T19:24:23.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T20:25:40.943" Score="3" ViewCount="26409" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 150,000 on the original factory plugs I replaced them all with Bosch Platinum, single tip, plugs. After a couple of months my car began to idle roughly at stops but not always. Then one day it got so bad the check engine light went on and stayed on. The problem was with the #6 cylinder. Upon removing the plug I noticed the tip was gone.  Replaced it with same type and about a month later same thing.  This time I used the type with four tips. Another month or so, #1 cylinder, remove plug, no tip. Few months later a loud backfire and a lot of power lost. #3 tip is gone and #4 but #4 was more severe because the coil sleeve is torn up and separated from coil. I was able to remove tipless plug but the treads were damaged and could not properly install new plug. Anyone have this kind of experience. Car is 1999 Chrysler 300M, 170,000 miles. So far the four prong plugs are all OK. Called Chrysler HQ, local Chrysler dealer, Bosch and other mechanics, no one knows what could have caused this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1904" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T19:12:01.323" Title="Spark plug tips are breaking/melting or falling of my Bosch Platinum Plugs" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3749" CreationDate="2012-06-10T12:16:08.423" Score="10" ViewCount="7814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things were going slowly but well on my install last night until I sheared off the passenger side motor mount bolt while putting everything back together (at about midnight - &lt;em&gt;sigh&lt;/em&gt;).  Here are the key questions on my mind this morning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I be able to extract the bolt with a standard big box vendor-issue bolt extractor (?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how big should the pilot hole be (i.e., how big a bit will I need for sufficient grip)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I likely to need to re-tap the bolt hole?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other warnings or suggestions would also be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a little more info: the bolt is on the forward side of the passenger motor mount. This is the bolt closest to the manifold crosspipe. The bolt is sizeable with a 14 mm head (or it did have such a head). I have plenty of access but it is a grade 8 bolt so just drilling a tap hole is a chore. As yet, I haven't managed to get enough torque on an extractor to back out the remains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-06-10T21:31:46.993" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T13:40:38.413" Title="What bolt extractor will remove a broken motor mount bolt on a 2004 Subaru WRX?" Tags="|subaru|wrx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-10T19:37:05.287" Score="3" ViewCount="4519" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an older Dodge van the switch to roll up the windows on the driver and passenger sides work for, say a month, and then they don't, and then one side works, and then the other side, and then neither side. It's crazy. Most suggest a motor but that seems unlikely a cause on both doors at the same time. Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T20:05:11.017" Title="What could be the reason for intermittent behavior of a window switch?" Tags="|power-windows|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3743" CreationDate="2012-06-11T02:59:38.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intermittent open / short / bad ground in the wiring, flaky motors, or bad switches.  You could pull a door panel and get busy with a multimeter when one is misbehaving.  Assuming the circuit is fused, which it should be, you could probe at the fuse block and maybe localize a wiring fault to one side of the fuse.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always take the shotgun approach and start replacing parts on one side and see if you get lucky.  Also, check any and all contacts / connectors, staticsan has a good point there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T17:57:22.497" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T17:57:22.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3827" CreationDate="2012-06-11T03:13:43.253" Score="8" ViewCount="17529" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the advice of someone at a local auto parts shop, I poured a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank.  This happened around the same time that I had a brake job done and rotated my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a week, I noticed that my engine is performing poorly.  It downshifts to climb small hills at freeway speed.  Also, the car is getting very poor gas mileage.  The car used to be able to get 400 miles on a single tank of gas and now I'm lucky if I can get 300, so there is a big reduction in gas mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car in to a shop.  I paid them almost $100 to tell me that the only problem they can see is that the tires are a little bit off-round.  I doubt that the tires not being perfect could be causing the problem, but there is a little bit of noise and vibration from the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a technician at a shop I previously visited before this problem told me that he recommends a fuel induction service to restore the cars gas mileage and horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make my car run better again?  It seems like something happened right around the time that I used the fuel injector cleaner product, but perhaps my brakes or tires have something to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did notice a gradual drop-off in fuel economy over the previous two years, but it just took a total nosedive last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt; The car is a 2003 Acura 3.2TL.  I'll have to look into the brand of the fuel injector cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Bob Cross asked about if the car's mileage was dropping before I had this problem.  Yes, it was dropping ever so slightly over the course of a few years, but it was right at the time that I put in the fuel injector cleaner that the fuel economy went way down.  The car has an EPA reported highway fuel economy of 27 MPG.  I drove about 230 miles last weekend at a speed of about 75 MPH and had to put in 11 gallons to refuel it.  I calculated the fuel economy to be less than 21 MPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I know to say is that it seems as if the car is just &quot;working harder&quot; to maintain highway speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New Information:&lt;/b&gt; I received a call from the service shop where the car is being examined.  The tech tells me that he drove the car down the street next to the shop (not going at highway speeds where I experienced serious problems) and it seemed to run fine for him.  He says that he connected the car to various diagnostic machines and there was no indication of any fault in the car.  However, he says that upon checking the spark plugs, he discovered that the plugs have heavy carbon build-up, so he recommends replacing the spark plugs and performing a fuel induction service.  Also, he says that the plugs in the car (which were installed several months ago) are iridium plugs and that the stock plugs would be double-platinum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastEditorUserId="1095" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T22:31:55.497" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T16:04:33.893" Title="Why does my engine perform poorly and get bad gas mileage after using fuel injector cleaner?" Tags="|engine|brakes|tires|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3747" CreationDate="2012-06-11T03:28:11.047" Score="3" ViewCount="2731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently pulled a door panel to fix a broken cable.  There was a foam liner behind the panel that had to come off to access the cable.  I think this serves as a water barrier, so I want to make sure it stays on when I put it back on.  The existing adhesive has seen better days.  What adhesive should I use?  What is the proper term for the foam sheet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T22:40:21.230" Title="Adhesive for use with a foam liner under the door panel" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3746" CreationDate="2012-06-11T05:08:37.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002JMPRA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spray trim adhesive&lt;/a&gt; as a first choice, it adheres very well and I have used it for such jobs. If I didn't have that available, I'd use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/adhesives-tape/gorilla-glue/2-oz-interior-and-exterior-all-purpose-adhesive-54287.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;gorilla glue&lt;/a&gt; for its waterproof and expanding properties (though a little more hassle than I'd like to put into it), or as a third option general spray adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T08:34:19.953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T08:34:19.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3750" CreationDate="2012-06-11T11:26:43.833" Score="4" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know the gas that Bondo outgasses when drying? A neighbour is sensitive to certain gasses and he needs to know if he will be affected by Bondo. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T19:59:46.843" Title="What does bondo outgas?" Tags="|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:15:49.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grade eight bolt that's broken off in the engine is almost certainly not going to extract in any conventional fashion.  There's just too much torque on the threads.  If you're going to drill a pilot hole big enough to get a grip on the remainder of the bolt, you're basically going to have to drill with a huge bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the shop will end up drilling an overlarge hole, removing the carcass of the bolt and inserting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert&quot;&gt;helicoil&lt;/a&gt;.  That will create a new threaded surface for the replacement bolt to grab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: &quot;removing the carcass of the bolt&quot; is not an easy step.  It's just as much trouble as drilling the pilot hole: there's still an obnoxiously tough bolt chunk where you want to put the replacement threaded insert.  This sort of drilling makes all kinds of metal shavings that will cling to human skin and do monstrous damage to a human eye.  Basic safety glasses are insufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T16:15:49.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3748" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:44:42.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dosha.org/msds/Bondo%20Body%20Filler.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Material Safety Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt; the hazardous ingredient is listed as Styrene. I would recommend you wear a respirator and some good gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some import points from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dosha.org/msds/Bondo%20Body%20Filler.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Signs of Overexposure: Nausea, cough, dizziness, weakness, headache, chest pain, lack of coordination, shortness&#xA;  of breath, dermatitis, redness and/or pain in eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Emergency First Aid: Move to fresh air, remove contaminated clothing, wash effected skin with soap and water, do not&#xA;  use solvents or thinners; if product gets into eyes, remove contact lenses, flush with water for 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Handling: If handling in a confined space wear an organic vapor cartridge respirator (NIOSH / OSHA). For working,&#xA;  wear solvent resistant gloves and safety eye protection designed to guard against liquid splashes. Close all containers&#xA;  tightly after use. Do not eat, drink or smoke in work areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other Precautions: Vapors are heavier than air and may travel along floors. Material has an offensive odor.&#xA;  Prolonged exposure may reduce the user’s sensitivity to the odor, thus reducing the effectiveness of odor as a warning&#xA;  against exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: 3M has a site where you can search for 3M's MSDS of the specific Bondo product you are using.  It looks like some of the hazardous ingredients may be different depending upon the specific product. &lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/MSDS/Search/?gsaAction=msdsSRA&amp;amp;type=ptn&amp;amp;msdsLocale=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3M MSDS Search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T19:59:46.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T19:59:46.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2012-06-11T17:33:11.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you take care of the known issues before you waste too much time diagnosing this noise. The other issues could very well be causing the sound.  Worn joints frequently cause clicking sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T17:33:11.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2012-06-11T20:43:18.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have a brake or brakes that are dragging. After a 15 or 20 minute drive stop the car and check for a sticking caliper. Feel each wheel in the area of the lug nuts to see if one feels much warmer than the others. They should all feel warm but about the same temp when comparing both backs and both fronts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T23:08:30.000" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T23:08:30.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3762" CreationDate="2012-06-12T10:27:11.057" Score="7" ViewCount="52705" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a used Honda Jazz 1.4 SE for my wife, and although it has a CD/Radio with an Aux button on it, there is no external connection I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As she wants to be able to connect her iPod, I am looking at how to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My background is in electronics so I'm more than happy to build circuitry if required, but am hoping I can just wire a headphone type plug into the stereo if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a socket I can get at, and if so does anyone have a wiring diagram?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T23:48:01.097" Title="How can I connect an Aux input to a 2004 Honda Jazz stock stereo?" Tags="|honda|audio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3753" CreationDate="2012-06-12T20:09:53.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variety of manufacturers sell a small transmiter that plays your ipod thru your radio.See if this model will work for you.&lt;a href=&quot;http://salestores.com/maxell191213.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T20:09:53.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4167" CreationDate="2012-06-12T22:36:31.677" Score="6" ViewCount="23912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Mercedes E-350 with an automatic rear sunshade; until a week ago the sunshade worked fine, but now it's stuck up and I can't get it to come down by any means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The button to move the shade doesn't respond; I can hear a click in the back of the car but that's it; none of the other mechanical noises it makes when it comes down proper. I can't physically push it back down, even after loosening the arms a bit (I got it about 20% down before it stopped moving). Even after loosening the arm's position the button doesn't work, though on occasion I've heard &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; more mechanical noises after pressing the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several tricks Mercedes forums recommend; I had someone push down on the shade while I press the button; no luck, it doesn't move. I heard the problem might be caused by a blown fuse, but I don't know which fuse it would be or how to get to the front fuse-box, actually; I can't seem to access the driver's side primary one if it's in there. I can see the rear fuse box but can't seem to open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I don't really care if the sun shade comes back up but I want it down; I'm content to not use it again if it's not going to work. At the same time I'd rather not &lt;em&gt;break&lt;/em&gt; it, at least not more than it already is, because the mechanism allegedly costs something around $1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T05:41:17.883" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T18:00:47.623" Title="How can I put down stuck rear sunshade on a 2006 Mercedes E class?" Tags="|electrical|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2012-06-13T01:51:31.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what others have said, diesel lube oil (the code starts with &quot;C&quot;, like &quot;CJ&quot;) is formulated to hold lots of soot, and after 10,000 miles, there probably was a lot of soot in the remaining oil that got mixed in with the new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing your own, &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; put &quot;S&quot; (for &quot;spark&quot;) rated oil in a diesel engine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T01:51:31.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2930" CreationDate="2012-06-13T02:04:38.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be aware that a diesel head gasket is not necessarily a job for an amateur. It is generally not as straight forward as a gasoline engine head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need special tools that many amateurs lack -- a torque wrench, for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to consult a repair manual for your particular engine. Some VW diesel engines will have multiple head gaskets available, and you have to use the right one for your engine's serial number. The wrong one can result in piston damage if they impact the head. Remember, clearances on a diesel are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; tighter than on a gasser!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to replace the head bolts, as well. Some VW diesels use &quot;stretch bolts,&quot; that are designed to elongate when torqued properly. These cannot be re-used, and must be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to examine the head carefully when you have it off. In fact, many shops will x-ray the head before replacing a gasket. Some VW diesel heads are prone to micro cracks that could be allowing coolant to enter the cylinder, even with a good gasket. These cracks can result from hot-running, just as a blown gasket can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't do this on my only car. It could be laid up for weeks as you go from problem to problem! If it's your &quot;daily driver,&quot; pay someone who knows this engine to do it -- they will make sure they have all the possible problem parts on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you have something else to drive while you dink around on this, it can be a challenging learning experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastEditorUserId="1856" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T02:11:52.853" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T02:11:52.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3743" CreationDate="2012-06-13T02:26:13.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably the switches. The contacts do degrade over time. They can usually be cleaned if you know what you are doing, but most people would recommend just replacing them. Also if the windows have limit switches, these could also be sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T02:26:13.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3753" CreationDate="2012-06-13T07:09:10.863" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for the same thing recently on a 94 Accord (different radio harness). Just looked around again to see if there's a solution on the 03-07 Honda radios and here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some units you can solder into the aux interface. Otherwise you can cheat the radio into using its CD/Nav/XM expansion plug as an aux input. This usually requires an additional &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oemautosound.com/pc-289-88-pie-hon03-aux-honda-2003-2011-auxiliary-input-adapter.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;part&lt;/a&gt; to convince the radio you're using an expansion, but my guess is that part is just shorting a few pins, so you could probably whip out your background in electronics and save the $.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondafitjazz.com/audio.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I recommend starting here&lt;/a&gt; and/or googling &quot;honda fit jazz head unit wiring diagrams.&quot; As a last resort, the radio accessories work. 20-60 USD, easier than hacking but audio quality is not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAMMy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T10:40:48.073" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T10:40:48.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2012-06-13T07:35:28.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned several FWD cars and the clicking, especially while turning or accelerating, is a pretty sure sign of a CV (constant velocity) joint going. So if your mechanic told you &quot;joints,&quot; +1 to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually drive a ways (5000mi/8000km) before the sound becomes unbearable. I never got past the clicking phase, but I'm told you eventually start hearing knocking, then screeching metal, and finally it just busts, possibly taking other components with it. So, probably should fix it before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you wanted to try something DIY, I've heard some guys pull back the CV boot (the rubber sleeve) and repack grease to delay the job. Might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/346851-raxles-clean-repack-cv-joint-boot-shaft-bit-rusty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;doable&lt;/a&gt; on your Volvo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T07:55:57.263" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T07:55:57.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-13T20:53:34.200" Score="4" ViewCount="2242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Honda Accord 2dr 3.0L V6 automatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive this car it makes a whooooo sound coming somewhere from the engine, when I turn to the right it is intense and when I turn to the left it does not make that sound, this sounds like the bearings but its not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car when shifting gear feels like it disengages from the transmission (sort of goes into neutral) and than catches to the next gear, so it jerks badly. If you increase the speed steadily at a slow rate, it will not do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue here? I have replaced the right engine mount, because this car has been in an accident (it hit a toyota pickup truck in the rear) so the mount was all bent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when standing without any movement and shitfting it into &quot;D&quot; it sort of takes a second for it to do it and than goes toodoo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1915" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T08:27:51.340" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T18:32:35.277" Title="Honda Accord Jerks when shifting gears and makes grinding sound?" Tags="|honda|transmission|noise|shifting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3770" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:02:27.197" Score="6" ViewCount="12452" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the picture below you will see that I took the plastic panel off my door, and separated the motor from the regulator.  After I disconnected the motor that I thought was bad, I connected a new one from Dorman. Turns out that both the old and new one can not go up(even when disconnected from the regulator.  I also checked the switch by connecting it to another window wiring and making sure that window still worked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, how do I get the up signal to go from the switch to the motor? I checked all the connectors, and they all looked good to me. Do I need to replace a wire? If so, which one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYP1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;View of full panel inside the door.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3KRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View of full panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/em&gt; I also made certain that my fuse is still in tact, so it is not the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I checked the voltage with the multimeter.  There are 11.84 V coming to the switch, and when I go down on the switch there are 11.84 V making it to the motor connector, but when I go up on the switch it drops to ZERO.  The next thing I would think to look at is the relays, and after researching that I think I found where they are supposed to be, which is R16-19 (for all 4 windows) but as you can see in the picture below, I have no relays in the interior fuse box, which is where I would expect them to be.  Where else could they be? What else could cause a perfect connection one way, but zero connection the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUIRw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interior Fuse Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Turns out it was that the switch(lower left switch in the picture below) on the driver side door was faulty. I got the window to go back up temporarily when I physically manipulated the switch. I have to go buy a new switch(all 4 of them on the driver door). Problem halfway solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Au2UI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disassembled main switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="1267" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T00:41:06.223" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T00:41:06.223" Title="My 2005 Mazda 3 Front Passenger window motor receives signal to go down, but not up" Tags="|mazda|power-windows|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3723" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:29:25.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We seem to have found the issue.  I found I was able to just pick up the negative cable off of the battery, and noticed there's a bit of a gap, so it looks like the problem was enough expansion to make contact intermittent, hence the alarm resetting every time it lost contact and sounding off all the time (also, part of the alarm's functions is to kill everything if it is active).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T22:29:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-14T23:12:19.150" Score="3" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlight switch in my dash is not connected to anything (I noticed this after the headlights quit working!), so I took the dash panel off in an attempt to find the plug. The only plug I could find is the one that was hooked to the dashlight-dimmer, it's visible in the bottom right of the photo. Where would I look to find out which wires might be headlight related? They're obviously colour coded, is there a legend somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSOBI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Added the thumbnail for now.  Can update later - Bob&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T13:15:30.893" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T15:00:28.700" Title="How can I identify which wire should hook to my headlight switch in my Mazda Protoge (91)?" Tags="|headlight|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3767" CreationDate="2012-06-15T11:00:50.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no voltage present, check the other end. If the correct voltage is there the fault is in the wire. If not, keep working back up the path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIWvn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltages required across E and F should be 12V and ground. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E091259560W02.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thaimazda3.com&lt;/a&gt; for a slightly more detailed diagnostic checklist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T02:19:25.123" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T02:19:25.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3743" CreationDate="2012-06-15T20:05:11.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has an alarm that automatically roll up the windows, it may be a good place to look at, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1437" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T20:05:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3782" CreationDate="2012-06-16T07:39:18.883" Score="16" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I drive a '97 Subaru Legacy with about 200,000 miles on it. Still runs like a charm, never gives me any trouble. Had the brakes, rotors, and calipers all replaced recently, tightened the power steering belt, replaced a tire...that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I know this can't go on forever. But I also don't understand why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can keep making $100-$800 fixes once or twice a year no trouble. That's fine. To the best of my knowledge, the only thing that could brake and be beyond my ability to repair is &quot;the engine&quot; or &quot;the transmission,&quot; either of which costs thousands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is a fairly open question-- how can I avoid deathly component breakdowns? What should I look out for, what precautions should I take, what should I have greased or oiled or replaced or shined up before it's too late, what can I do to prolong the life of the mysterious metal object known as &quot;the engine,&quot; and also &quot;the transmission&quot;? Past the 200,000 mile mark, what's going to be problematic in the near future? And how much longer do I have, on estimate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All advice is welcome. During college, anything beats buying a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T19:21:31.267" Title="Keeping an old car alive?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3102" CreationDate="2012-06-16T08:27:55.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer in progress&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;California Consumer Protections&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although &lt;a href=&quot;http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/cacode/CIV/5/d3/4/1.7/1/3/s1793.03&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;California Civil Code (section 1793.03)&lt;/a&gt; specify three-year minimum (seven years for sets or appliances priced $100 and up) for electronics and household appliances (regardless of warranty), I could not find similar provision in that particular law for the automotive parts availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/cacode/CIV/5/d3/4/1.7/1/3/s1793.2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;section 1793.2&lt;/a&gt; gives general requirement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every manufacturer of consumer goods sold in this state and for which the manufacturer has made an express warranty shall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(3) Make available to authorized service and repair facilities sufficient service literature and replacement parts to effect repairs during the express warranty period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lawguru.com/legal-questions/california-consumer-law/auto-parts-availability-long-car-830386583/a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;was asked on lawguru.com&lt;/a&gt; and answered by alleged attorney from California as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;not aware of any law requiring an automobile manufacturer to sell an [sic] parts at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also should include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;CAL. CIV. CODE § 1793.2 : California Code - Section 1793.2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(a) Every manufacturer of consumer goods sold in this state and for which the manufacturer has made an express warranty shall:&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3) Make available to authorized service and repair facilities sufficient service literature and replacement parts to effect repairs during the express warranty period.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(d)&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(2) If the manufacturer or its representative in this state is unable to service or repair a new motor vehicle, as that term is defined in paragraph (2) of subdivision (e) of Section 1793.22, to conform to the applicable express warranties after a reasonable number of attempts, the manufacturer shall either promptly replace the new motor vehicle in accordance with subparagraph (A) or promptly make restitution to the buyer in accordance with subparagraph (B). However, the buyer shall be free to elect restitution in lieu of replacement, and in no event shall the buyer be required by the manufacturer to accept a replacement vehicle.&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(A)  In the case of replacement, the manufacturer shall replace the buyer’s vehicle with a new motor vehicle substantially identical to the vehicle replaced. The replacement vehicle shall be accompanied by all express and implied warranties that normally accompany new motor vehicles of that specific kind. The manufacturer also shall pay for, or to, the buyer the amount of any sales or use tax, license fees, registration fees, and other official fees which the buyer is obligated to pay in connection with the replacement, plus any incidental damages to which the buyer is entitled under Section 1794, including, but not limited to, reasonable repair, towing, and rental car costs actually incurred by the buyer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(B) In the case of restitution, the manufacturer shall make restitution in an amount equal to the actual price paid or payable by the buyer, including any charges for transportation and manufacturer-installed options, but excluding nonmanufacturer items installed by a dealer or the buyer, and including any collateral charges such as sales tax, license fees, registration fees, and other official fees, plus any incidental damages to which the buyer is entitled under Section 1794, including, but not limited to, reasonable repair, towing, and rental car costs actually incurred by the buyer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, GM &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; have been required to be able to service EV-1's for at least 7 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:07:25.243" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:07:25.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3824" CreationDate="2012-06-16T20:04:19.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2263" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I lock my car, the central lock button (the one with padlock) on the panel starts blinking with a 1 sec. rate. I have check if the boot is closed, and it is (if it wasn't, it would also show an error on the display. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that long ago since I bought, but I can't recall seeing this blinking earlier. Can anyone check if theirs are blinking as well, or does anyone know what's wrong, if there is anything wrong at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panel: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uj0qS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1919" LastEditorUserId="1817" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T21:17:22.033" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T00:31:42.877" Title="Central lock button blinking on Peugeot 407 when car is locked" Tags="|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-17T19:31:51.613" Score="2" ViewCount="3619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to change the rear spoiler on my 2005 golf gti.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that it's possible to remove the adhesive by cutting through it with some kind of a thread, I guess nylon would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done this? Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1920" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T12:52:38.220" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T13:58:27.677" Title="VW Golf MkV spoiler removal" Tags="|vw|golf|body-work|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3776" CreationDate="2012-06-17T20:31:48.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can work it under the spoiler, dental floss would probably work.  That will take care of the adhesive and it should come off if there aren't any bolts holding it on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done this myself, but on the make/model specific forums I frequent, I've seen dental floss and fishing line recommended.  Though going back and searching, it seems the dental floss (doubled over) was recommended for emblems, fishing line for spoilers.  You might also try a gentle application of heat to loosen the adhesive, perhaps also (again, gently) applying a plastic putty knife once you've got enough of a gap opened up.  Make sure there aren't any bolts holding it on, check from below.  Though if you work fishing line from the driver side to the passenger side that should rule out any fasteners.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T16:43:13.277" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T16:43:13.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3772" CreationDate="2012-06-18T10:05:52.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't consider a 15 year old car to be that old! Regular maintenance is the key. Change the oil etc regularly (go by the service schedule), and use a good quality oil and filters. Change the transmission fluid, make sure the belts get done on schedule, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was running cars of that age as my everyday transport, it was terminal rot that killed them, not mechanical failure. Rust can become very expensive to fix, but you might be lucky and live in an area where that is less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legacys are pretty solid from what I've seen. If you look after it, you should have a good couple more years out of it - it should at least keep going until you've finished studying...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T10:05:52.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2012-06-18T10:55:43.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to report back - I hate leaving questions unanswered on the Stack... forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand it, but when my mechanic swapped the 2 wires that connect the horn-push-button to the steering wheel, the horn started working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this had something to do with grounding or something... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there it is - thanks for the other suggestions all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T10:55:43.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3772" CreationDate="2012-06-18T13:42:29.863" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some reasons that old cars may not be able to be supported indefinitely are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rust.  If you get rust in areas that are hard to reach and compromise the integrity/safety of the vehicle, it may be cheaper to buy a new car than pay the massive labor for extensive rust repairs.  These days labor rates are insanely high, the killer is the disassembly/reassembly (Got a quote to paint my car for $8000 simply due to the labor of pulling the body parts off for paint!  Actual paint cost &amp;amp; labor was only about 10% of the total cost!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parts availability.  When your power steering rack (just an example, could be any part) breaks in a way that requires a unit replacement you may find that there are none available.  When I had a caliper irreparably seize up in my car (cooked it beyond being able to have the seals replaced), it took 2 weeks to find a replacement!  None available new.  None available in the dealer network.  No aftermarket replacements/refurbs available.  None available in any of the junkyards we tried.  Finally found one in a warehouse out in Cali...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine/transmission thing is the least of my concerns about car longevity.  Even if you spend $4000 getting an engine, it's still way cheaper than buying a new car...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T13:42:29.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2802" CreationDate="2012-06-18T13:50:45.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best answer is a GM parts counter as @Mark answered.  Depending on the exact design/configuration you may be able to secure it with a ziptie.  I broke the clip for the power transistor plug on my Mitsubishi, but was able to thread a ziptie through it to keep it secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T13:50:45.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-18T17:55:59.797" Score="2" ViewCount="1967" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is telling me that Wix is a better oil filter. He says they don't use paper, and that the intake holes are bigger. I just &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009IR0A6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bought a TG16 (which is the expensive FRAM filter)&lt;/a&gt;. Is there any objective studies done on these two? How do I know paper is worse than whatever Wix using? How do I know that hole size matters at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a consumer reviews or something that can advise my purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T19:17:38.253" Title="How do FRAM oil filters stand up to their competition?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3784" CreationDate="2012-06-18T18:01:20.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oil Filters Revealed&lt;/a&gt;.  The Tough Guard is &lt;a href=&quot;http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;described&lt;/a&gt; by the author as 'not too bad', but I wouldn't use one on any of my vehicles.  Nothing good is said about the rest of the FRAM line.  The WIX is described as 'another quality oil filter similar in design to the Purolator', though the 2008 version that was taken apart did have a paper filter element.  There are also plenty of tear down videos on Youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I had to choose between the FRAM and the WIX, I would go for the WIX for the metal end caps if nothing else.  I buy the K&amp;amp;N filters with the nut.  It's handy on my vehicles.  If it wasn't for the nut, I'd save a couple bucks and go for the Mobil 1.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T19:17:38.253" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T19:17:38.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3821" CreationDate="2012-06-18T21:32:08.253" Score="11" ViewCount="299743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started having a bit of trouble with my car.  I typically drive my car to and from work each day.  A couple weeks ago I went on vacation and when I returned, my car battery was as dead as could be.  The battery was already a couple years old, so I went to the local auto parts shop, purchased and installed a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, after it had sat through the weekend, it wouldn't start and was completely dead.  I drove the car at lunch, and it started without any trouble.  Furthermore, other than the incident a couple weeks ago and this morning, I haven't had any form of trouble starting my car.  It's always started quickly, without any trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked how many amps the care was pulling while it was off and it was .78 amps.  Could this slowly kill my battery after a few days or is that a normal power draw for a car that isn't running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, My car is a 95 Buick LeSabre.  Also, I'm not 100% sure that the lights weren't on a couple weeks ago, however, I am sure that my lights were not left on over the weekend, nor were the internal lamp lights.  If something is drawing power, it's something that isn't immediately noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a typical car is off, how many amps does it pull from the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1923" LastEditorUserId="1923" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T12:34:07.970" LastActivityDate="2018-02-15T18:17:34.173" Title="How many amps should my car pull while it is turned off?" Tags="|battery|relay|power|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3776" CreationDate="2012-06-18T22:00:20.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fishing line doesn't work try fishing leaders. Fishing leaders are available that are made of small diameter steel cable. It is available in measured  lengths or by the spool. They come in various strengths and are nylon coated which should protect the paint. I have used them to cut thru windshield adhesive. Park the car in the sun for a couple of hours to help soften the adhesive. Use a sawing action and lube the wire with WD40. Once everything starts to separate place small wooden wedges under the spoiler so it won't readhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T22:00:20.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3790" CreationDate="2012-06-18T23:23:33.797" Score="4" ViewCount="14871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Mazda 3, and I have located both the interior and exterior fuse box. Neither one of the fuse boxes have relays in it concerning the power windows.  Does anyone know where they are on this car? I think I need to replace one to get my window to go back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Is this circuit diagram telling me that the relays for my power windows are in the main switch on the driver side (diagram courtesy of AutoZone saying it is for my Mazda 3 2005)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKDw8.png&quot; alt=&quot;AutoZone&amp;#39;s Wire Diagram for Mazda 3 05&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="1267" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T03:14:27.147" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T15:04:20.397" Title="Where are my Power Window Relays?" Tags="|mazda|power-windows|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2012-06-19T02:48:34.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be wrong, but have you looked through the switch circuitry? Sometimes those modules come all in one, and you have to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T02:48:34.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2012-06-19T04:06:13.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your wiring diagram, the relay is inside the switch, and based on that it's not serviceable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the picture you posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3767/85&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPbdV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That black square box on the switch (tyco) is the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CG4QFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&amp;amp;DocNm=V23084-X0000-A001&amp;amp;DocType=DS&amp;amp;DocLang=EN&amp;amp;ei=kSXhT5vDA4au9ATs792DDQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNE4CG4yGI4ErryiXD1kXAPyFuiKAA&amp;amp;sig2=5NLyYjgcDjv0vFjm-UGq-Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is are the specs (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://octopart.com/v23084-c2002-a403-tyco+electronics-9539888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a where you can buy it&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that I would say it's replaceable, with some soldering required. It would take some additional testing to know if it's the relay, or another part of the switch assembly that was causing the failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T01:30:19.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3795" CreationDate="2012-06-19T20:50:14.920" Score="13" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Honda Civic's manual indicates that my timing belt should be replaced every 110,000 miles or 84 months. I bought the car in July 2001 and have around 49,000 miles on it. A dealer mechanic said (when fixing a seat belt recall) that it is time to be replaced, but two local mechanics strongly suggested I wait due to the low mileage. I haven't had the best of luck with the dealer and am unfamiliar with the local mechanics outside of positive yelp reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a timing belt wear more by mileage or time? I use the car for commuting and the climate here in northern California (Bay Area) is mild. I'm looking at about $800 parts/labor for the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Can mechanics inspect the timing belt to see if it actually needs replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T12:48:38.400" Title="How do I weigh mileage against time when it comes to scheduled maintenance?" Tags="|honda|civic|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2012-06-20T08:18:32.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As they are made of rubber, belts begin to perish over time, and this weakens them. The constant flexing as the engine turns accelerates this weakening process. Eventually (if it weren't replaced), the rubber would split and the belt would snap - causing very expensive damage to your engine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite easy to visually observe a belt that definitely neeeds replacing, but very difficult to reliably say that it does not - and very few mechanics would be willing to say so - if they said &quot;it's fine&quot; and it snapped, you'd be pretty annoyed, and they'd probably lose their job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General rule of thumb for timing belts is &quot;if in doubt, replace it&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T08:18:32.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2012-06-20T12:48:38.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't weigh them against each other.  Items are generally inspect or replace at x miles or y period of time, &lt;em&gt;whichever comes first&lt;/em&gt;.  This is what you need to do to keep the car within factory tolerances.  Go outside of that range and you become a &quot;test driver&quot;, which may not be an issue, but it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be for certain parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T12:48:38.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3798" CreationDate="2012-06-20T21:00:00.370" Score="11" ViewCount="10333" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can be the cause of a vibrating steering wheel when driving faster than a specific velocity (let's said 60 mph). How to discriminate one cause from on other ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastEditorUserId="1918" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T21:07:20.727" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T08:06:55.867" Title="What are the possible causes of vibrating steering wheel?" Tags="|steering-wheel|vibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3797" CreationDate="2012-06-20T22:34:52.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vibration felt in the steering wheel is usually caused by the front tires out of balance. That's the first place to look, other possibilities include: broken belt in the tire, out of round tire, a bent rim, a bent or out of round hub, wheel bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things you can do to help narrow it down would be to rotate the tires, if the vibration in the steering wheel goes away then it's related to the tires or rims. It would be just as easy to have the tires balanced though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T22:34:52.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2012-06-21T06:24:22.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work at a big chain tire store, and chrome going bad on wheels is pretty common.  Sometimes the chrome finish lasts for awhile and sometimes it goes bad within a few years.  I personally would not use chrome rims since chrome eventually goes bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to temporarily fix a leaking chrome wheel by taking a wire brush to the chrome where the tire bead seats on the wheel.  We would then use a generous amount of bead sealer (a rubber bond that helps create an air tight seal with the rim) before inflating the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T06:24:22.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2012-06-21T06:49:52.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you hear where in the engine it's coming from or at least what area?  Since the noise is tied to engine revs, I'd suggest checking anything that increases with increased RPMs.  Power steering pump/fluid levels, timing belt/chain, tensioners, AC compressor, alternator, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T06:49:52.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3320" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:55:26.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced the socket, it seems to be working now.  I ordered a new part from a dealer.  The replacement procedure is easy:  Pull the wire retaining clip with a screwdriver, remove the old bulb socket from the wiring harness plug, insert the new socket, replace the clip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T15:55:26.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3803" CreationDate="2012-06-21T17:46:30.033" Score="5" ViewCount="32505" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're the (humbled) owners of a 2011 Class B Mercedes with an inbuilt ECO start/stop system. As far as I understand this is how it's supposed to work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear in neutral.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal &lt;em&gt;all the way&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor turns &quot;off&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift into first gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor turns back on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The salesman remarked that the main problem people have with this system is they don't actually press the pedal all the way to the metal. However, we're experiencing that while this system just works at times, it also just doesn't work at other times. More specifically, it tends to work when leaving home and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to work in return trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The operating manual is in German since this is a used car, so I'm kind of at a loss. What's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1934" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T02:23:39.853" Title="Mercedes start/stop system doesn't always kick in" Tags="|troubleshooting|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3802" CreationDate="2012-06-21T18:05:50.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other factors that affect the start stop feature. I am not sure on that exact model but generally the following things will keep the car engine from shutting off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant Temp too high, or too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine has not ran for at least two minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The AC is on and not in the economy mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low Vacuum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery charge low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High current draw on the 12 volt system (IE defogger, defroster, and&#xA;windshield wipers all on at the same time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the above conditions is met it does not allow the start stop feature to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T18:05:50.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2012-06-21T22:27:58.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your Filler tube, where they run against the frame of the car...I have a 98 CRV, and the Fuel Filler Tubes rusted right at the point where they are mounted to the frame...The vent tube (smaller tube) corroded to the point that gas was seeping out and leaving a puddle on the ground. Problem at this point is, they are slightly level with the inlets to the gas tank, so when parked of a level surface, gas will leak out..Replacement of the Fuel Filler Tube and the rubber hoses connecting them to the gas tank, should take care of this problem...Hope this was helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1936" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T22:27:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3807" CreationDate="2012-06-22T13:02:07.207" Score="3" ViewCount="2283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevy Cobalt; its heater works fine, but AC doesn't seem to work at all. Fan works, but even at cooling set to max it just blows room temperature air. What could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:15:28.460" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:15:28.460" Title="AC not working in 2005 Chevy Cobalt" Tags="|ac|chevrolet|cobalt|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3797" CreationDate="2012-06-22T13:20:52.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bad vibration when cruising on highway, I did an alignment and changed my wheels bearing. The vibration was mostly gone but I got a &quot;death wobble&quot;, which is a loud noise coming from the front at high speed. I changed my tie rod ends and steering damper, redone an alignment and now everything is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll do what Larry suggest first, this are the cheaper and easier things to do than you look at other possibles causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T13:20:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3805" CreationDate="2012-06-22T13:32:56.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely causes are a freon leak or a broken drive belt. Frequently the leak is from an &quot;O&quot; ring on the back of the compressor. You can buy recharge kits at auto supply stores that are designed for the DIYers. My experience has been that if you are not familiar with the system it might not be cost effective. It will usually take two and sometimes three kits to find the leak. If you shop around you can find a shop that might be able to fix it for the same cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T13:32:56.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-22T17:12:40.040" Score="6" ViewCount="3753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic with a naturally-aspirated &lt;code&gt;Honda D17A2&lt;/code&gt; (9.9:1 compression ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Goal:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a modest horsepower gain (say +38 hp) in the lower-mid-range powerband; I'm not after the maximum horsepower potential. My goal is better overall engine efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Initial Thought:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially thought there should be a way to bolt a small, aftermarket turbo onto my engine without having to switch from &lt;code&gt;Regular (86-89 AKI)&lt;/code&gt; unleaded fuel to &lt;code&gt;Midgrade (88-91 AKI)&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Premium (91+ AKI)&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;However:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled across a previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/498/static-vs-effective-compression-why-does-higher-effective-compression-not-requ/508#508&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; (by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/92/annath&quot;&gt;Annath&lt;/a&gt;) and answer (by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/57/bob-cross&quot;&gt;Bob Cross&lt;/a&gt;) that gas me questioning my initial thought. It was my understanding that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are numerous factors that can affect the maximum allowable effective compression ratio (ECR) in relation to the fuel octane rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's best to have an ECR set as high as feasible without encountering detonation at the maximum load condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;New Thoughts:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began to think that the D17A2's 9.9:1 compression ratio might not be the immediate drawback most would think it to be in regards to forced induction and the &lt;code&gt;87 AKI&lt;/code&gt; fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factors that I'm aware of that influence the compression ratio include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;fuel anti-knock properties&lt;/code&gt; (fuel octane rating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;boost pressure&lt;/code&gt;(psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;intake air temperature&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;combustion chamber design&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ignition timing&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;valve events&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;exhaust backpressure&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you can lessen or modify one or more of the other factors in an attempt to balance the increase from chamber pressure, then perhaps a safe offset will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to many modern normally-aspirated engines having well-designed combustion chambers and ECUs (or PCMs) providing appropriate self-tuning, I thought my D17A2 engine could handle a modest amount of boost with no significant change to its compression ratio. Am I wrong in thinking this? By making sure that the turbo I installed was small, wasn't set above say... 5 psi at max, had an intercooler installed for decreasing the intake air temperature, I believed my car's ECU could enrich the fuel/air mixture so that it would run even cooler yet, plus modify the ignition timing all in order to prevent premature detonation and provide a modest horsepower gain. Plus, thanks to the size of the turbo the power gain would affect the power band between 2000 - 4000 rpms, where most of my daily driving takes place. On top of that I thought I might even see a slight increase to the vehicle's fuel efficiency as the engine's cylinder's volumetric efficiency increased thanks to the forced induction. Am I overlooking something or is this a practical outlook to the potential of adding a turbo to my vehicle while maintaining the use of 87 AKI octane fuel? Do you think my Civic's ECU could handle the changes that would come with installing a turbo as I described or would I need to have the ECU flashed and re-tuned... my fear is this would be a potentially disastrous step unless under taken by a true specialist who understood the installed turbo and the D17A2 engine. I worry that this would mean that it would be very expensive, too expensive, to get the tuning just right, but maybe the default ECU setting would be sufficient. Anyways, what's your thoughts and is there a way to mathematically determine whether these aspirations of mine are even feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T17:00:04.243" Title="Is it feasible to Turbo a NA engine while maintaining 87 AKI octane fuel use?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|civic|turbocharger|octane|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2012-06-23T03:28:38.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get you halfway; here's the formula for the effective compression ratio of a forced induction motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Effective Compression Ratio (ECR) = sqrt((boost+14.7)/14.7) * Static Compression Ratio (SCR)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for 5psi on your 9.9:1 SCR motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ECR = sqrt(19.7/14.7)*9.9 = 11.46:1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have had quite a difficulty trying to find a good way to get ECR to &quot;what octane gasoline do I need&quot;, as it seems no simple matter. Some starting reading is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part3/section-1.html#b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/498/static-vs-effective-compression-why-does-higher-effective-compression-not-requ/3339#3339&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the cuff, 9.9:1 seems rather high even for 87 octane, and 11:46:1 seems to be square into the 93 octane range, which I've been told has a usual maximum of 12:1 compression (though again, no simple equation for it). It seems some motorcycles can get away with 14:1 on premium, but this seems not to apply for most cars; it probably has to do with the smaller piston size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a reference, most turbocharged vehicles use closer to an 8:1 static compression ratio; my Probe turbo used 7.8:1 and I could only get about 21psi on it with pump gas (premium 93 octane, 12.15 ECR). If I wanted to use 87 octane and not trip the knock sensors, I had to limit the boost to about 6-7psi (9.36 ECR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T03:28:38.657" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3811" CreationDate="2012-06-23T13:19:51.593" Score="3" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tires are starting to burn out at nearly the drop of a hat, so it's time to start looking at tire wear.&#xA;I've never had to replace tires due to wear before, so this is foreign territory for me.  After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3612/566&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;  Ive been looking for wearbars (which i can't find) and did the penny test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My front tires (front wheel drive car) barely pass the penny test in the deep center ridges of the tire, but when you do the test towards the edge of the tire, they fail miserably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear tires are much better, center tread easily passes the test, and the tread as you get to the outer edge of the tire fails pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing the test right, and is it time to go get some new tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T16:55:34.380" Title="Help deciphering the penny test" Tags="|tires|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3810" CreationDate="2012-06-23T16:55:34.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you are doing the test right. For inspection purposes in my state the minimum tread depth is 2/32, as long as you have at least that much tread in two consecutive grooves it will pass. Based on your information they would pass inspection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my car I would at a minimum replace the front tires now and the rear tires very soon. The other thing you need to address is the uneven wear most likely caused by tire pressure too low. The outsides of your tires are wearing faster than the insides and the most likely cause is under-inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T16:55:34.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2012-06-23T17:28:58.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes i  had  a  look at  a  s40 2005 model  today, The  customer  was left  with  no  ignition  and  no  crank  but  wipers interior light, main lights all worked,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of tracing  i  found  that  the  ignition switch  to  be  faulty no  main ignition circuit  out put, when i  used my  back probe   the car  started  perfect,all  circuits  worked,,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may  help i would definitly  go  to  ignition  switch  first,,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1942" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T17:28:58.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3815" CreationDate="2012-06-23T17:56:08.000" Score="5" ViewCount="9712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new motorcycle. The manual says that for the first 500km, I should not twist the throttle more than half. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the first 1800km, should not twist it more than 75%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't I use full throttle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1252" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T21:39:37.953" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T12:18:42.110" Title="Why can't I ride a new motorcycle too fast?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2012-06-23T18:20:33.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually the same for any new engine- while it its bedding in high revs can damage engines. For those first few thousand miles, minor differences in tolerances between components can be gently worn down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more of an issue with highly tuned or closely machined engines, but no engines should be run hard until worn in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly some cars have their engines bedded in before you get them, and some have wide enough tolerances and low enough tuning that they should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T18:20:33.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2012-06-23T18:37:47.140" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding with the current manufacturing technology it's not necessary anymore, on new cars, now there may be differences in motorcycle engines as I am not as familiar with those. With that being said we ask the customer to come back in 500 - 1000 miles for a free oil change on the engines we build and install. We do this for a couple of reasons, we change the oil getting any of the contaminates that may have been the result of the rebuild and break in, it also allows us a chance to double check our work and make fine tuning adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a related excerpt from a popular mechanics article &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ritual of breaking in a new car is part of the body of knowledge&#xA;  we refer to as conventional wisdom. It’s not necessarily wise, and the&#xA;  technology of building a modern automobile has evolved to the point&#xA;  where a lot of “wisdom” is obsolete. Few cars specify a break-in&#xA;  procedure anymore, simply cautioning you to avoid extreme acceleration&#xA;  or extended idling for the first thousand miles or so, and there’s&#xA;  little in the way of extra service up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Engine Cylinder Walls&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Piston rings don’t rely on their spring tension to seal against the&#xA;  cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the&#xA;  rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few&#xA;  minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be&#xA;  opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure.&#xA;  Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and&#xA;  the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil&#xA;  consumption and shortened engine life. If you’ve ever seen the car&#xA;  jockeys who drive new cars off the end of the production line into the&#xA;  storage lot, or the transporter drivers zipping up and down the&#xA;  car-hauler ramps, you’ll realize that this all-important step has been&#xA;  performed for you many times. If you’re installing a new engine,&#xA;  simply give it a few seconds of wide-open throttle in a high gear. For&#xA;  the first thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings.&#xA;  If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you’ll be fine. I advise&#xA;  against cruise-controlled sojourns across Nebraska.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Bearings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The admonition to keep engine revs low for an extended break-in period&#xA;  stems from the days when bearing and crankshaft manufacturing&#xA;  tolerances were far less rigorous and lubricating oil wasn’t nearly as&#xA;  good. While modern engines are assembled to much the same design&#xA;  clearances, the tolerances are much tighter, meaning the variability&#xA;  is smaller, greatly reducing the possibility of a tight spot.&#xA;  Redlining a fresh motor is generally a bad idea, but there’s no reason&#xA;  you shouldn’t drive normally. I would, however, avoid top-speed&#xA;  testing, drag racing or towing heavy trailers for the first 1000&#xA;  miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Oil&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I customarily change the oil in a new engine after about 20 miles, and&#xA;  again at 1000 or so. That 20-mile oil, you would think, would look&#xA;  pretty much like fresh oil right out of the bottle. Wrong. It usually&#xA;  looks more like metal-flake paint, iridescent with tiny particles of&#xA;  metal worn off rubbing surfaces inside the new engines. After a few&#xA;  hours of operation, this completely normal phenomenon slows down as&#xA;  the rings, camshaft, lifters and bearings burnish their respective&#xA;  mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/how-to-break-in-a-new-car&quot;&gt;Read more: New Car Care – How to Take Care of a New Car - Popular Mechanics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T18:37:47.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:06:29.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt the backlighting is serviceable separately. I would search for rebuild kits, I have found several on eBay with the components and instructions on how to repair it. You can also goggle instrument panel repair service and find other options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:06:29.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3818" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:27:15.853" Score="6" ViewCount="19929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3767/my-2005-mazda-3-front-passenger-window-motor-receives-signal-to-go-down-but-not&quot;&gt;window get stuck&lt;/a&gt; only after having it rolled all the way down. So I had to put a trash bag in its place temporarily, to keep rain from damaging the interior of my vehicle, and it was held down by duct tape.  Now that the issue has been resolved, and my window is back up, I am trying to get the residue off of my car, without damaging the paint.  Does anyone know how to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5qOc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Showing duct tape residue on my car door.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T10:02:53.900" Title="How to remove Duct Tape residue?" Tags="|cleaning|paint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:30:19.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;sticker removers&quot; specifically for automotive use that should be able to soften the residue so you can get it off. I also had reasonable success with Autoglym tar remover. In either case, make sure you're using something that's safe on automotive paintwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:30:19.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-23T21:13:02.120" Score="9" ViewCount="2101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidently poured Barsleaks stop leak for the radiator into the engine oil compartment. Is there any way I can reverse the process? The stuff is hardening already. This a 2004 Volvo S80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T21:56:32.800" Title="Put Stop leak into engine. Can I reverse the process?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3819" CreationDate="2012-06-23T21:56:32.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open the drain plug immediately, go buy 10 quarts+ of oil. Let as much drain as it will, put the plug in, fill up with oil, run it until it's hot. You could even try that engine-cleaner additive that you add before changing. Drain it, change the oil filter, fill it again and run it. Change the oil again in about 100 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that the glue and sand hasn't worked its way into somewhere that it won't come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then don't do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T21:56:32.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2012-06-24T12:44:52.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what it &quot;should&quot; be pulling, but anywhere near a whole amp is way too much and will drain the battery in no time. Are you sure you tested right? Often the pull when you first connect the battery can be a lot higher than the steady pull since you might be charging some capacitors, etc. If it stays that high you definitely have a problem, possibly a partial short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T12:44:52.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35429" CreationDate="2012-06-24T13:02:04.290" Score="8" ViewCount="13062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently neck deep in an electrical issue with my BMW 316i – I think I have a short circuit.&#xA;I found the wires that are blowing my fuses, and it's bad. Like at least 5ft of 8 or more wires fused together behind my dashboard bad. I'm NOT looking forward to replacing said wires. I'm concerned that after I do replace said wires that whatever caused them to fuse together in the first place will just repeat its evil satan inspired process again. What could cause such a calamity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very, very, ignorant of engine/electrical systems and how they work, so please word your answers accordingly. Assume I'm electrically challenged, because compared to someone who knows what they're doing, I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1945" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T21:59:10.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T22:08:11.097" Title="Why are my wires melting together?" Tags="|electrical|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3822" CreationDate="2012-06-24T20:34:44.213" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not familiar with the electrical system I would get a referal to a good shop familiar with BMW's. They may have seen it before or at least recognize what caused it. This a case where it must be determined if your melted wires were the cause or the result of another problem. Just installing another harness may result in the same melted wires. The wires melted due to excessive current draw. Normally this should not happen because the fuse should open to protect the wires. It is possible that the wrong size fuse was installed allowing the wires to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T00:01:32.910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T00:01:32.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3775" CreationDate="2012-06-25T00:31:42.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been told that this is normal. That it is blinking when car is locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1919" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T00:31:42.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-25T02:17:16.300" Score="8" ViewCount="361017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed on my 94 Integra (bought used about 2 weeks ago) that the thermostat is often below cold, sometimes above cold but never up to the center mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was boiling inside my car as it was a very hot day and my thermostat was below cold for the engine. Any ideas whats up? From searching it seems like the thermostat might be broken but I don't understand why sometimes it goes above cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I guess I should be more specific: I've noted that the engine temp reads below C even after 30+ mins of driving. Sometimes it will be around 1/3, but usually its below C even when I've been running for quite a while &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastEditorUserId="1947" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T05:45:39.523" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:32:31.920" Title="Car temperature displaying below Cold or just above Cold always?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2012-06-25T09:31:20.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the same on the Integra, but on my 2003 SEAT Leon I have the same issue, and the cause I believe is that the thermostat is stuck open - this is either due to a failed temperature sender unit (so the thermostat never gets the signal to close) or the thermostat itself needs replacing - that'd be the first places I'd look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T09:31:20.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2012-06-25T16:04:33.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that the fuel mixture was not right.  A fuel induction service solved the problem very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T16:04:33.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3830" CreationDate="2012-06-25T22:08:16.027" Score="7" ViewCount="5801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 81 Chevy C10 that I inherited from my dad. This truck has mostly sat for the last seven years, with me running it enough to keep it in condition. I've been using this truck mainly for the last year now and have replaced parts as needed. I would really like to get the AC working again. It hasn't been ran in about 7 years now. The heat works fine. The AC had a leak before and needed to be charged to work but the leak was never fixed. What kind of problems can running the AC cause now? Can I just charge it up? Should I at least get it evacuated and charged with a dye first? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T05:27:03.220" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T19:21:47.743" Title="What problems can come from AC not running for years?" Tags="|ac|chevrolet|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2012-06-25T22:59:20.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolant system is designed to keep the engine at a near constant temperature. If the temp is too cold it affects fuel ecconomy and performance. If it is too hot engine parts overheat and get damaged. The thermostat does this by opening and allowing hot coolant into the radiator to be cooled. When the coolant temp is low it closes and allows the engine to warm to the designed temperature.The are three most likely causes. A defective thermostat that stays open. This allows the coolant to flow thru the radiator and actually overcools the engine. It could also be a defective gauge ot sensor. The other cause is a defective coolant fan relay. If the radiator fan runs constantly it can also overcool the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T22:59:20.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3828" CreationDate="2012-06-26T01:41:18.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was never converted to use R134a instead of R12, you're not just going to be able to charge it up yourself, since something that old probably came from the factory with R12 refrigerant.  You need a license to buy R12 in the United States, and it's not cheap.  Since your system is compromised and needs attention anyway, you might as well do the R134a conversion if it hasn't already been done.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a thread from a C10 forum.  Bare minimum for the conversion would be new service ports.  At the top end, a new accumulator (receiver/drier), orifice tube, o-rings, compressor and pressure cutoff switch.  There is probably a happy medium somewhere in the middle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's standard procedure to evacuate the system before charging.  You probably don't have much to recover, but sucking the system down to a vacuum can tell you how bad your leak is (by how long the system remains holds the vacuum).  Since your system has been open for so long, adding some oil when charging is probably a good idea.  Especially if you're going to do it yourself, since you'll be running the compressor while charging through the lower pressure port.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to charge the system to find the leaks.  A detector wand can pick up refrigerant as it escapes the system.  Adding UV dye when charging works, too.  You can find the leaks with a UV light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know where the leaks are you can evacuate the system again, fix them, and charge it again and see if you got them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably do all the work yourself if you have access to the proper equipment to evacuate and charge (vacuum pump setup, gauges and hoses), but you really shouldn't be venting refrigerant to the atmosphere (especially not R12).  If you charge it and it leaks out, I guess that's one thing, but a shop would recover it and dispose of it properly.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as things to watch out for with a system that has been open for years, as Brian Knoblauch is pointing out, the compressor could be a problem.  Even if it's not seized, the seals could be shot from lack of lubrication.  If you haven't pulled the relay/fuses for it though, it's been getting power whenever you've had the defroster on.  It might not even be engaging due to low pressure, or maybe engaging and immediately shutting itself back off.  If you're hoping to salvage it, pull the relay and / or fuse for it until it's gotten some lubricant (or don't use your defroster).  I'd guess the accumulator / receiver / drier is shot. As for the rest of the system, if moisture has gotten into it, you could have leaks everywhere due to corrosion.  I wouldn't be surprised if you had to replace the accumulator (receiver / dryer), orifice tube and possibly the compressor along with dealing with whatever hard lines or hoses are leaking.  You might get off easy, but then again, you might not.  Labor is not going to be cheap.  You're probably going to be using aftermarket parts, since the originals were meant for R12 and they're long discontinued anyway.  The good news is an assessment should not break the bank, it should be around a hundred bucks to vacuum and charge the system, maybe a little extra labor to check for the leaks.  Then you just have to decide if the bill for fixing it is something you can bear.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T19:21:47.743" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T19:21:47.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-06-26T02:27:28.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently checked on the price for new rotors for my 96 Camry, they are $20.35 each. If it cost $10 to turn a rotor and drive down to the store and wait, I'd rather order on line, buy new and work on something else or eat. Why ever turn a rotor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T02:27:28.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3828" CreationDate="2012-06-26T12:09:53.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a possibility that the compressor will have seized up from sitting so long.  They really need to be run periodically.  However, I've seen some that have sat a long time fire up again just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T12:09:53.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3835" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:24:03.457" Score="3" ViewCount="14368" Body="&lt;p&gt;The service manual in my car says that I should wait for 15 second before trying to crank the engine a second time. So does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/about_4586987_car-starters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make sure not to crank the engine for more than 15 seconds at a time.&#xA;Current going through the armature may overheat parts, damage internal&#xA;components and ruin the starter. Crank the engine 5 to 7 seconds at a&#xA;time and let the starter cool down for a few seconds after three or&#xA;four tries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm on a steep slope (facing upward and at a just-turned-green signal), trying to start the engine, with people honking behind me, the first attempt at cranking the engine works and I try to accelerate, but let go of the clutch too quickly, and engine stops. Now I can't sit and wait for a full 15 second before trying to start the car again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wait-for-15-second rule seems too impractical. Did I misinterpret it or can I try starting the car before 15 second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastEditorUserId="1539" LastEditDate="2020-11-26T08:54:02.807" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T08:54:02.807" Title="When cranking an engine between 15 second intervals is ok?" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3834" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:41:43.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine in that instance. I wouldn't make a habit of it. The rule I was taught was crank for no more than 15 seconds and let the started cool for a few minutes in between. The goal is to keep the starter from overheating so your time is cumulative. It shouldn't take more than 3 - 5 seconds of cranking to start the engine. Based on that you could try 3-5 times before you would reach the 15 seconds of cranking limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get better at driving a stick it will be less of an issue. In the mean time just as anyone learning to drive a stick the clutch and the starter are going to get a little more than normal wear on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T15:41:43.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:56:53.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 9.1:1 compression car that I normally boost to 16 psi as the intercooler maxes out there on hot days.  We've run it up to 18 psi no problem on a normal day.  At 21 psi the intercooler is totally saturated in a hurry and the ECU starts to flatline the timing due to knock.  I've also got a 9.6:1 NA car that knocks on anything less than premium (apparently due to the 10% ethanol fuel we have, runs fine on regular on the rare occasions I can get pure gasoline)...  So, in short, there's a lot of variables, too many to truly quantify.  It's really an experimental process that must be undertaken with great care and the realization that you're increasing the liklihood of breaking something, possibly something quite expensive.  If you can find someone that's already done it with your exact make/model/configuration, that's a good starting point (but without the normal safety margins, even basic wear and tear can make the car react differently from what would otherwise be an &quot;identical&quot; car)!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T15:56:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-26T21:48:00.423" Score="3" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have Mariner 9.9E outboard motor. Having hard time figuring out year and Yamaha equivalent (early Mariners were Yamahas in disguise). There is very little information on those, and it is hard to find exact owner and repair manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serial number on the motor starts with 682C, and, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/yamahaModelGuide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt; it should equate to Yamaha 6E7 model (9.9D) from 1981 on. On Australian Yamaha support site I had found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/lib/download.php?f=6E7-28199-22.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;owner’s manual&lt;/a&gt; for 9.9D from 1984 (first edition). But I had read that Mariner 9.9E with SN 682C 551*** should be 1981 (hearsay-ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to assume that international Yamaha 9.9D from mid-80s is equivalent to my particular Mariner? Could changes requested by Mercury be significant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given above, must I seek out specific Mercury or Yamaha service manual (no luck so far), or something like umbrella Seloc would be enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal that international 9.9D requires 1:100 oil to fuel ratio as per owner’s manual, and would it be the case in American version?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T19:58:36.087" Title="Identifying American (Mercury) Mariner outboard" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-27T14:11:15.960" Score="4" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lance Vintage 150cc that we haven't rode in about a year.  I just got it out and put a new battery, oil, and gas in it.  When I try to start it, it makes that initial starting noise but the engine just won't turn over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the engine and discovered that fuel was in the line going &lt;strong&gt;toward&lt;/strong&gt; the fuel pump but no fuel in the line going &lt;strong&gt;away&lt;/strong&gt; from the fuel pump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just need a new fuel pump?  If so where can I get/order/find one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T22:11:58.717" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T14:43:45.867" Title="Lance Vintage 150cc Fuel Pump" Tags="|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3837" CreationDate="2012-06-28T22:32:52.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In progress.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Managed to find Clymer repair manual (very broad, 2 to 220 HP, 1977 to 1989) through EBSCO database, it stresses using 1:25 fuel ratio on break-in, and 1:50 thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T22:32:52.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2012-06-29T20:04:29.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that the fuel/air ratios are going to be outside of the range your stock ECU can compensate for.  Your best bet will be to find a bolt-on turbo kit that has either a chip or a reflashed ECU.  The companies that make the kits spend weeks getting the mapping right, I doubt you'll find anyone willing to develop a one-off for your specific engine/turbo combination for a couple hundred bucks.  Plus, rolling your own will mean fabricating your own brackets and plumbing, are you comfortable with that?  Not to rain on your parade, but bolting on a turbo is a lot more involved than most simple speed mods.  Have you looked into any other options?  Maybe a low-restriction cat and a chip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T20:04:29.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2012-06-29T20:10:01.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily, it could mean you have a bad ground or corrosion somewhere in your headlight circuit that's impeding the current flow.  But in general, you're right to be concerned about the battery.  I think @NoCarrier's got the answer -- have your local mechanic/parts store check it out.  My batteries always seem to die without warning -- starts and runs fine one day, flatline the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T20:10:01.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3822" CreationDate="2012-06-29T20:27:04.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see how the wires are routed behind the dashboard.  It's possible one (or more) rubs against something or goes through an ungrommetted hole.  Eventually the rubbing wears through the insulation and the wire grounds out.  And if you've got several fused together, you could have several spots where bare wire is exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck -- I &lt;em&gt;hate&lt;/em&gt; having to work behind the dash!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T20:27:04.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-30T21:04:12.017" Score="2" ViewCount="4833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, with the 4.0L inline-six engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, the car has been demonstrating some trouble maintaining idle.  It usually would not stall outright, but the RPMs would drop extremely low whenever I let off the gas.  The car idles relatively okay on first start - the problem only seriously presents itself when letting off the gas to come to a stop or make a slow turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, the problem finally worsened to the point that it will actually stall.  In city driving or parking lots, I have to keep my foot on the gas at all times to keep it from stalling in turns or stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My step-dad suggested it might be overdue for an air filter change, and that I should test the problem without the filter.  When I opened the air box, I found that parts of the filter had oil in it and there was some oil in the intake tube leading to the engine.  Testing the problem with the filter off yielded no change.  The car idled well enough immediately after starting but, after applying a light, quick burst of the gas pedal, it quickly stalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google search for oil in the air intake turned up a lot of results relating to the PCV valve.  I checked with my local parts shop though, and they say that my car didn't originally come with one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could cause these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T21:50:53.697" Title="Oil in air intake, and engine stalls" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4018" CreationDate="2012-06-30T23:48:15.113" Score="1" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Odyssey 2004 V6 with the optional DVD package.  Recently, the stereo went out and won't turn on.  We thought it may be the fuse at first, but the fuse says &quot;INTR LIGHTS STEREO&quot; and the interior lights work fine.  So we think the stereo died, but is there a way to troubleshoot these types of problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I bring up the DVD package because the DVD player screen died years back, but the DVD player also died at the same time...  in the Honda, the DVD player is right below the stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T00:39:38.000" Title="Honda Stereo Not Working - How to Troubleshoot?" Tags="|electrical|honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3846" CreationDate="2012-06-29T18:02:17.630" Score="4" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about making a 20Ah LiFePo battery for my jeep with 4 tenergy LifePo4 cells from eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will solder the terminals directly to each other, but for the leads going to the car, can I use 6awg wire connected to some anderson connectors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/sb50-sb-series-50-amp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these anderson connectors&lt;/a&gt; on my car that I use for external 12volt items such as power inverters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the anderson connectors be able to handle enough current to run my starter motor for a few seconds (2-3) or should I use different means of connecting the batter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find how much power the starter on my Jeep is, but I'll figure it out when I get home tonight.  I will measure how much the voltage drops when I turn it on, and from there I can figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I already have all of these connectors, I am open to better solutions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am planning on doubling the capacity of the battery to 40Ah once I get it up and running.  So please don't tell me that 20Ah isn't enough for a jeep. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" OwnerDisplayName="Keegan McCarthy" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T15:04:18.450" Title="Anderson connector for car battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3845" CreationDate="2012-07-01T15:04:18.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SB50 you linked to are only rated at 50 amps, not nearly enough for what you want. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-sb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anderson does make larger ones the SB350 series&lt;/a&gt; is rated at 350 amps and would be large enough. It's also going to take a much bigger wire 6 gauge will be too small for the amount of current you will be flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T15:04:18.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3876" CreationDate="2012-07-01T16:25:07.537" Score="4" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic tells me that he has to replace the 6 ignition coils in my 1998 BMW 528i - he wants $800 to do it.  I can get new coils online for about $30 each, and it &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to me that I could put them in myself within an hour.  Am I unaware of some kind of special tuning, knowledge, or tools that would be required, or can I venture into this apparently simple DIY project without worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, OEM coils replacements are $70, which is still only $420 - so the additional $380 is what has me wondering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1961" LastEditorUserId="1961" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T16:35:53.920" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T04:22:09.730" Title="Is there any particular difficulty in replacing Ignition coils in a BMW 528i?" Tags="|bmw|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3849" CreationDate="2012-07-01T17:55:50.103" Score="2" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 BMW 328i convertible still has the original stereo installed, and it DOES work, however, the LED for the controls has ceased to display anything.  Wondering if there's some magically easy fix to this, or if it means replacing the stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1961" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T18:25:12.753" Title="Stereo/Audio LED &quot;burned out&quot;?" Tags="|bmw|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3848" CreationDate="2012-07-01T18:25:12.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching found several options, but I am not sure if these are refering to the same radio you have. If you are not comfortable taking the radio apart there are repair services that will do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to fix your e36 dim radio display&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/DIYBMWP.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site offers a DIY repair kit for the back-light&lt;/a&gt; if this is your radio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5lQy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://carstereohelp.com/bmw.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;They also offer a repair service&lt;/a&gt; if that's not your radio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other repair services include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doctordons.com/bmwradios.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doctor Don's&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radiomanrepair.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Radioman&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carradiorepair.com/bmw-radio-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car Radio Repair&lt;/a&gt;. I am sure there are others as well, maybe even some local shops in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T18:25:12.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3852" CreationDate="2012-07-01T21:44:40.380" Score="16" ViewCount="53051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does driving at high RPMs (3000-3500) in a manual transmission car cause any extra wear and tear to any mechanical parts? It obviously hurts gas mileage, but does it hurt anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:18:31.967" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T16:10:53.693" Title="Is it harmful to drive at high rpms" Tags="|dodge|shifting|rpm|manual-transmission|viper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3654" CreationDate="2012-07-02T03:26:09.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3662/85&quot;&gt;Ehryk&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of good suggestions. If it's not flooding out (rich) then it's got to be running lean. A common problem with older carbs is air leaking in around the throttle shaft. That's the shaft to which the butterfly valves are attached there may or may not be replaceable bushings. If there are no bushings, or bushing kits then it's time for a new carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T03:26:09.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3850" CreationDate="2012-07-02T08:13:57.123" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on your definition of high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car, the red line is at 7500 rpm, and that indicates that driving with the revs over this line for anything other than brief periods is expected to cause damage, either through overheating, increased wear, increased loading on bearings, lack of sufficient oil/fluid flow etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving I have to keep my revs below 3000 until the engine and turbo are at the right temperature, then I typically keep my revs between 3000 and 5000, as that is the best range for it, but you need to look at what your car is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maintenance intervals are defined by mileage, so as long as you follow the guidance in your manual on revs your engine should be fine. As Krom commented, your manual will often give a 'green' zone for engine revs - which will indicate where your engine should be running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, running at too low rpm can also cause problems, which is why the green zone may be 1500-3000 or 2000 to 3500 etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T08:13:57.123" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3996" CreationDate="2012-07-02T08:51:07.310" Score="0" ViewCount="32841" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is asked for various proportions :&#xA;- 10% of petrol &#xA;- 50% of petrol &#xA;- 100% of petrol &#xA;in a diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS : not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/686/what-happens-if-unsuitable-oil-is-used-in-a-vehicle-engine&quot;&gt;What happens if unsuitable oil is used in a vehicle engine?&lt;/a&gt; !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mention a possible damage, please specify the technical reasons with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; : didn't know the &lt;strong&gt;petrol&lt;/strong&gt; equivalent in English. Thanks for the suggestions to edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T21:10:31.553" Title="What happens if petrol is used in a diesel engine?" Tags="|oil|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:50:14.370" Score="3" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all car dealerships brand their cars? By branding I mean putting the dealer's name usually next to the model decal on the car. I find this very annoying - I don't want to put bumper stickers on my new car, and I definitely don't want a non-removable dealership ad on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I asked them to not put that on my new car, would they think I am strange?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1964" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T13:37:45.067" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T13:37:45.067" Title="Car dealership branding their cars" Tags="|body|dealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:48:26.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most do, yes - It is free advertising for them. Round here it is usually a sticker in the rear window, but I have seen some dealers put something on the back panel. They also put their details on the licence plate (a legal requirement in the UK for anyone supplying plates)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that if you asked them not to, the sales person would say &quot;Yeah, sure&quot;, then they'd ignore your wishes and stick it on anyway... If it is just a sticker you may be able to remove it with some care and &quot;sticky stuff remover&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:48:26.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2012-07-02T17:10:29.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealerships I worked at would take it off at the request of the customer. It's simple you're the customer and the salesman isn't going to lose a sale over the sticker. If you have already bought the car or just aren't comfortable asking them to do it you can DIY by following &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/610/85&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T22:42:57.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-02T19:54:34.713" Score="13" ViewCount="24035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid with continuously variable transmission (CVT). At the 90k tuneup, the mechanic added 3.5 quarts of the regular automatic transmission fluid. At 110,000 miles, the transmission died,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General consensus online holds that using the wrong fluid is certain to destroy the transmission very quickly. However, this did not happen. Now, the mechanic who put in the wrong transmission fluid claims that CVT's often last only 100k, and therefore does not want to take full responsibility for replacing the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He suggests that since the transmission lasted another 20k, he is not fully responsible for replacing the transmission, e.g., because it might have died anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any statistics for the life expectancy of this device (the CVT)? Online forums are generally skewed toward examples of either long lived transmissions or those that failed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any standard way to assess who is liable for repairs in such a case?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1966" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T00:22:16.493" Title="What is the life expectancy of a Honda Civic Hybrid Continuously Variable Transmission?" Tags="|honda|transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2012-07-02T22:02:21.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same thing happened to me with my 2001 Ford Escape. We replaced the battery &amp;amp; then they said alternator that is placed only where a mechanic can get at it. A year later now, I am having the same problem. I found out it is the radiator fans!!! They are using too much power and draining the battery and you would only notice it if on long trips or using the a/c more. The kicker is it is NOT a recall or warranty job that Ford will replace for free even though they know about the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1968" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T22:02:21.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2012-07-03T03:22:13.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know my wife's 1991 Cherokee with the same engine has a PCV, but IIRC I had to get an OEM one from the local Chrysler emporium because my local parts store couldn't supply me with an aftermarket one. The engine is the same so I'd be extremely surprised if your Jeep doesnÜt have a PCV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it ended up with a fair amount of oil in the in intake tract there is a chance that the idle control valve needs a clean. If the Jeep runs OK with minimal throttle applied the symptoms would be consistent with the idle control not working properly. A decent workshop manual would normally cover the cleaning procedure for this valve - it's usually not very involved but it helps if you have some instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With proper care these engines are very durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T03:22:13.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2012-07-03T09:28:15.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could simply be a clogged rear breather line. In the pcv system it's the one that draws vapor into the intake manifold, and if clogged the vapors will go through the airbox breather instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the tubes and make sure they flow properly, and if any installed check valves are working. Replacing most of the rear hard breather line with fuel line on both my 89 xj and 90 xj solved the oily filter issue for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1970" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T09:28:15.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3609" CreationDate="2012-07-03T16:48:53.627" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not considering tubeless tires, as soon as the tyres start getting punctured frequently, its time to replace your tyres.&#xA;Moreover wheel balancing may help you getting longer on the same set of tyres.&#xA;Also consider looking at new tyres n yours, it gives u an idea about how bad are your tyres currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1971" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T16:48:53.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2012-07-03T16:52:40.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In INDIA, it takes around 6 hours at a local mechanic and around 6-8 hours at an authorized workshop, for a TATA indica V2 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1971" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T04:09:20.640" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T04:09:20.640" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-07-03T16:52:40.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3850" CreationDate="2012-07-03T19:15:16.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within a certain range, of course more RPMs mean more wear. Especially if your maintenance is based on time or miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a bearing that has a lifetime of 1,000,000 revolutions. If you drive at 5,000 RPM, that bearing is going to use up its lifetime twice as fast as if you were driving at 2,500 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &quot;lugging&quot; an engine at too low an RPM can be harmful, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your prime directive is mechanical lifetime, shoot for lower RPM within a reasonable range (i.e. not lugging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T19:15:16.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3869" CreationDate="2012-07-04T01:51:38.220" Score="5" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's mass is approximately 1800kg from memory and I intend to purchase a trolley jack so that I don't have to use the provided scissor jack when at home. I've noticed that trolley jacks have various ratings, and I've seen one rated for 1400kg for around $70, and then the next model up (rated for 2000kg) is pushing $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is a jack rated for 1400kg suitable for use with my car, given that it's never actually taking the full weight of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1972" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T10:37:37.473" Title="Trolley Jack Rating" Tags="|jack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2012-07-04T02:35:22.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you thought the jack is more than strong enough because you will not be lifting the entire car. Just remember that to be safe use jackstands if you will be under the vehicle or doing more than changing a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T02:35:22.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3872" CreationDate="2012-07-04T09:05:01.780" Score="11" ViewCount="70643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I parked my Dodge Viper after driving for about two hours (in July, ~90°F, AC at full blast). Half an hour later I noticed a huge puddle under the engine, on the passenger side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure it was water since it was thin, odorless, and cool. I'm guessing it was sweat from running the AC but I have never seen it do this before and the puddle was massive - about a yard squared. Is this normal or could there be a leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T01:51:10.343" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T13:39:27.077" Title="Huge puddle of water under car" Tags="|ac|dodge|leak|viper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T12:25:29.307" Score="2" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy a Yamaha Crux from the showroom. I'd like to know how to compare the engines in each of the available bikes of the same model. Will they differ in any way? One mechanic I know said that the engine beat differs even between the same model bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastEditorUserId="1320" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T13:09:40.010" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T23:45:13.667" Title="Are engines of the same model bike identical?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2012-07-04T13:05:07.463" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is the a/c unit. What may have happened is that debris, pine needles,leaves etc may have plugged the drain allowing an excess amount of water to build up and then it relaesed. Run the a/c unit for awhile say 30 minutes. In a safe area like an empty parking lot make some abrubt turns at slow speeds. If you hear water sloshing under the passenger side dash the drain is clogged. If you look under the hood on the passenger side you may see a rubber &quot;L&quot; shaped hose. You might be able to clean it out with a small piece of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T13:05:07.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2012-07-04T15:04:11.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Yamaha web site for the models you are interested in. They should list technical specifications for each model. If you are concerned about performance differences focus on peak horsepower and peak torque at a specific rpm along with top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T15:04:11.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T17:54:49.153" Score="7" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently when I had some work done I was shown a minor leak, I believe he told me it was the oil pan. It doesn't drip out onto the ground, but if you look closely you can see condensed oil drops on the side of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed that the car is using 10W30 oil from the previous owner, but the manufacturer recommends 5W30 (94 Integra). Will this cause this leak to be a larger issue or possibly be harder on the engine? I've heard some people say that it's better to run thicker oil on older cars both to help seal any leaks and cause better performance/car life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T12:49:49.307" Title="Will I be okay running thinner oil with a minor oil leak on an older car?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2012-07-04T22:50:40.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first number in the oil rating classifies its' cold start properties. The second number references its' hot properties. Since the oil is most likely to leak while it is hot you should see no difference since both have the same characteristics when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T22:50:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3847" CreationDate="2012-07-05T04:22:09.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF you have an E39 with an M54 engine, it is as easy as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplugging Battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplug cable, and possibly unscrew rail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew each coil pack, and replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reconnect all items, and test drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a very hard job, as all the packs are exposed once you remove the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T04:22:09.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2012-07-05T12:10:41.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil leak or not, I'd switch and run the recommended oil.  Definitely keep an eye on your oil loss and consumption though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T12:10:41.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2012-07-05T23:45:13.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern motors (and other aggregates) produced by reputable manufacturers (Yamaha be one of them) for established markets (Western Europe, Australia, North America etc.) are engineered with low tolerances, thus should have little variances in operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In emerging markets engines could be (or could have been not long ago) older, and poorer manufacturing quality. For instance, Indian Royal Enfields were (until recent updates) notorious to the point where no two bikes could exchange parts at times. This could hold true especially in the lower end of the spectrum where Crux is. Subsidiaries could be making cheap and older designs on outdated machinery. In a way, it could have been out of necessity, because more sophisticated machines require better maintenance and higher skilled mechanics than could be available, say, in the remote jungle of Nepal. Therefore, it could be hit and miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamaha-motor-india.com/product/crux/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;current Indian-spec Crux&lt;/a&gt; looks up-to-date enough. As the matter of fact, I have a suspicion it has the same crankcase as a global 125 motor (used throughout the world from Latin America, to Asia, to Western Europe in YB/YBR models as well as in Indian YBR 125 and SS 125), but with different side covers. That puzzles me (why slap different cover on the same motor?) so I cannot be sure without properly comparing 110 and 125 engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that most of the countries Yamaha present in offer 125 motor, but not the 110. I have not seen any other Yamaha bike in any of the markets using the same engine (or 110 displacement for that matter). Also, bikez.com shows &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_crux_r_2011.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crux with older engine&lt;/a&gt; — something to be mindful of. I cannot make educated assessment of quality or reliability of that motor as well, but I would take modern global power plant any day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering all of the above, if Crux is much cheaper, given the engine is the same shown on the website, it still could be fine. As I said, it looks like modern quality-built motor. If you can confirm that it is, in fact, the same basic motor as worldwide 125 — all the better. In all, it should not vary much from bike to bike of the same model, but one should pay close attention to quality of assembly, and make sure the dealer did decent job on tune up (especially carburettor settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T23:45:13.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T04:32:18.697" Score="1" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;dust comes into my vehicle when the window is closed, looks like it comes from the passenger feet side. there is a peice of fabric that came off where the glove compartment is, could it be coming from there? where else would it come from? there are worn rubber strips along the front passenger door. dust also collects in the trunk; my doors are also started to wear out, can't open the driver side door from the outside and the passenger door won't open unless you open it from the outside and inside. i opened the driver side panel to see what the problem was, couldn't tell, but there is a small metal piece sticking out looking useless where the latch is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1975" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-07-08T01:57:24.770" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T02:22:50.207" Title="Dust is coming into my Ford Contour 1998 2.5L when the window is closed" Tags="|ford|door|contour|cdw27|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2012-07-06T15:00:09.340" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What follows is not a mechanical fix.  That said, I think you are going to have to solve this as a people problem first.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the answers in the comments, I would recommend the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect your maintenance records.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect your warranty documentation, especially the 100K mile warranty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write a short script for yourself: &quot;I baby my car.  The mechanic put in the wrong oil.  As a result, the car broke immediately after the warranty expired.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact &lt;a href=&quot;http://automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations.aspx&quot;&gt;Honda USA Corporate&lt;/a&gt; and discuss your situation with them.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mechanic is a Honda dealer, authorized service center or affiliate, it is likely that corporate will increase the pressure on them to compromise with you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T15:00:09.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T16:35:40.297" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an 2003 Acura TL.  This week, the fan stopped blowing air, regardless of what setting the temperature / A/C is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled out the blower motor and connected a multimeter to it.  The reading is 0 volts with the ignition set to off, 9.5 volts with the ignition set to on with the HVAC turned off, and about 11 volts with the HVAC turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a shop this morning.  The mechanic there said that he does not know A/C well, but he tried connecting the blower motor directly to the car's 12V battery and it came to life.  I don't understand what could be going wrong here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I check next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1095" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T19:43:20.033" Title="What to check on HVAC after verifying blower motor works?" Tags="|hvac|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2012-07-06T19:20:21.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally took it in to a Toyota dealership.  They said it was the overflow control valve (OCV); it's inside the gas tank, and requires replacing the entire gas tank, about $1000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1830" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T19:20:21.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3900" CreationDate="2012-07-07T10:19:18.773" Score="5" ViewCount="3412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4 year old, well loved Honda civic with only about 25K. It has been serviced nearly every 6 months. I just took it for a service a few weeks ago and today I noticed that it seemed to be leaking oil. Even more alarmingly, there is a &quot;burn&quot; mark on the hood. (see photos below) The paint is scorched in a small area. At first I thought something from the engine was heating that area from beneath. I had a look under the hood but couldn't find an obvious culprit and the underside of the hood seemed fairly undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if the leak and the burn are related or if the burn is caused by something else that I hadn't noticed previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to call the service station when they open on Monday, but any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that it is water. Not sure if it is harmless though. Have it booked for servicing tomorrow. But in the mean time, it happened again last night and I took a video of it. It was very hard to get underneath the car to have a better look or to trace it to the engine. I have put the video on youtube &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYkBbaqP_QM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for your interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FuRNJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burn Mark&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQKa8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under the hood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIB6O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Underside of the hood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1977" LastEditorUserId="1977" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T13:56:38.160" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:30:11.037" Title="Advice needed - My car has burn mark on hood and seems to be leaking oil" Tags="|engine|honda|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3879" CreationDate="2012-07-08T02:22:50.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the dust entry:  The fabric you mention is probably insulation over the blower motor.  It could be coming in from the outside to that location from the air intake in the cowl near the wipers on the passenger side.  It's possible the seal around the cabin air filter is gone.  There should be instructions for changing the cabin air filter in your owners manual.  You don't actually need to remove the wiper arms if you can get them stopped around 12 o'clock.  You could also be getting dust in through the door / trunk seals if they're shot.  That should be an easy fix with aftermarket material (Ford parts are probably discontinued).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your doors, I've recently been into the driver's door on a Contour.  The passenger side is the same, just flipped.  There is a cable that runs from the handle on the inside to the latch mechanism.  It could be stretched or broken.  You need to pull the foam panel to see it.  The cable was worn / stretched for a long time on the one I was working on and needed to have the outside and inside handles jiggled to lock the door from the inside before it eventually broke (either that or the mechanism just needed to be lubricated, which I did when I had everything off).  The outside handle is connected to the latch via a rod.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3184/1321&quot;&gt;Driver side front inside door handle does not work on a 1998 Ford Contour LX&lt;/a&gt;.  I've got more pictures I've got to upload yet which might help you out.  The door control cable is long discontinued (and there are none in dealer inventory or at Vintage Parts), I had to get one from a junkyard.  They sometimes show up on Ebay.  Looks like the control rod is discontinued, too.  If you can find the part number, you might be able to get it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vpartsinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage Parts&lt;/a&gt;.  This is where I usually take doughnuts down to the local Ford Dealer parts department to get them to look up part numbers.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Team Ford&lt;/a&gt; might be able to help you out, too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T02:22:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3883" CreationDate="2012-07-09T13:37:31.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered that perhaps the oil leak is from another vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is, in fact, from your Honda, start from where the puddle of oil is on the ground and work your way up, in the direction that gravity falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for and locate the source of the oil drip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the source of the drip is found, you should see a path that the oil is following to that spot. Follow that path up to the source of your leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you come to something simple like a loose oil plug or oil filter, go ahead and tighten it up. If you are not very mechanical, an oil plug should be good and snug with a wrench and an oil filter should be hand tight (not wrench tight). If you get to a bearing, seal, or gasket, you would probably need to take the car in to a repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T13:37:31.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-09T18:46:53.307" Score="2" ViewCount="2029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 model Honda unicorn motorcycle. It's very difficult to ride during rain or cold weather, because of missing. I asked service center but they did not do anything. I have changed the CDI, ignition coil and air filter but the problem persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1982" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T23:05:22.727" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T07:31:46.247" Title="Honda Unicorn missing during rain and cold weather" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2012-07-09T19:08:20.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the spark plugs and plug wires.  Maybe you've got a bad plug or a wire with a crack in the insulation that's letting in moisture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T19:08:20.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2012-07-09T19:09:12.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're on the right track.  Water/cold missing issues are usually ignition related.  I've been down this road a number of times myself.  It can be quite hard to pinpoint.  Look for cracked ignition components that might be letting water in/support condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another (but somewhat remote possibility) is water in the fuel.  Bad seal on the gas tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T19:09:12.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3891" CreationDate="2012-07-09T22:43:40.940" Score="6" ViewCount="2386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an 86 Chevy C10 pickup.  The engine has been replaced with what I have been told is a &quot;354&quot;.  Most of the work I've done on cars has been via a Haynes manuel.  But, because I'm dealing with a different engine, I don't know where to find information on torque specs, how to's etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a pro, but I have decent tools and some experience.  I know a mechanic who can help me through the tough parts, but I want to be able to do some of the more basic stuff on my own.  Can I buy a hayne's for this type of engine, if yes how do I figure out which one to buy?  Or, what else can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I found the numbers &quot;14101074&quot; stamped in the back center of the engine, just behind the carburetor.  According to several online sources this engine casting number is for a 305 engine belonging to an 82-92 Camaro.  Considering it has TPI,that puts it between 87 - 92.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:22:17.517" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:22:17.517" Title="How can I learn the details of an engine that's not original?" Tags="|chevrolet|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2012-07-09T23:05:29.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can figure out another application (vehicle) for that engine, you can refer to the engine related parts of a manual for that application.  Or at least look up information on the internet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be numbers cast into the block which should help identify it.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/decode.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to get you started, assuming you've got a small block Chevy.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/main&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; looks like a nice database once you've got the numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T00:43:34.830" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T00:43:34.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-07-09T23:23:08.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T23:23:08.207" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T23:23:08.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-07-09T23:23:08.207" Score="0" Body="The Toyota Camry is a series of mid-size (originally compact) automobiles manufactured by Toyota since 1982 and sold in the majority of automotive markets throughout the world. The name &quot;Camry&quot; is an Anglicized phonetic transcription of the Japanese word kanmuri, meaning &quot;crown&quot;." OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:20:52.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:20:52.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2012-07-10T02:18:27.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is typically a casting number on the block. It is located just to the rear of the drivers side cylinder head. Don't confuse this with the serial number pad that is located on the front of the block in front of the passenger side cylinder head. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/decode.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; has some good photos showing both locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="2157" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T17:02:05.927" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T17:02:05.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2012-07-10T07:14:38.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter how low your fuel level is, the fuel pump will always be submerged in fuel, the pump actually sits inside a well that is full of fuel, its like this on every car that has an internally mounted pump, otherwise the mass would be exposed to oxygen and a spark can ignite the tank vapors and boom. --- former UTI graduate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1987" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T04:59:05.910" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T04:59:05.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2012-07-10T12:49:49.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Brian! Using a different type of oil you can cause a lot of damage to your engine! I would switch it to the recommended oil type!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1989" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T12:49:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-07-10T14:15:54.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a mechanic for over 35 years, I strongly recommend resurfacing even if the rotors look fine. It's a matter of cost. If they are the &quot;slip over hub&quot; type, new rotors are relatively cheap (like $28 each). With that said, peace of mind for under $100 is well worth it. New pads are ceramic and much tougher than metallic to &quot;break in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T14:05:07.233" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T14:05:07.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3883" CreationDate="2012-07-10T14:30:11.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments to the original question it sounds like two things have been established:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The original hood blemish is likely from airborne dung or similar paint corrupting agent (yuck!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The puddle under the car may be water and, if so, I think there's a high likelihood that it's from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3870/huge-puddle-of-water-under-car&quot;&gt;air conditioning condenser&lt;/a&gt;.  Specifically, this is to be expected when the air conditioner is removing a lot of humidity from the air.  The water gets dumped out beneath the car, spooking the operator who doesn't expect this as normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good idea to confirm that what you're dealing with is water and not some other critical fluid.  Here's what I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take several large sheets of clean paper (e.g., butcher's paper).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the layers down under where you normally park before you drive in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the drips to collect.  If we're talking about air conditioning water, an hour is sufficient to collect plenty of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull out the paper and examine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should now have a damp blotch in the middle of your paper layers.  If you're dealing with water condensed from humid air, it will be essentially colorless and odorless.  All other automotive fluids have some sort of color and a distinctive smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:30:11.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3905" CreationDate="2012-07-10T15:21:57.237" Score="8" ViewCount="63118" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Mazda 3 with 73K miles (roughly 20K on the tires) on it starts to make a sound, just like your washing machine does when all of the clothes go to one side and its still spinning, when I get to 50 MPH. When I increase to 60 MPH or higher, it not only makes the sound, but it starts to resonate. What is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I went to get the tires rotated and balanced, and they did that for me. And since then, the sounds I hear and vibration I feel have gone down ten-fold, but it is still there.  Is there anything else that could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REFERENCE:&lt;/strong&gt; For anyone else that comes later and wants to know where or what to look for when looking for their wheel weights (other than the ones Bob has already shown in his answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJtxc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of wheel weights&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="1267" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T02:11:51.863" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T18:17:35.610" Title="Uneven rotation sounds when my car gets to 50-60 MPH" Tags="|wheels|mazda|noise|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3904" CreationDate="2012-07-10T15:25:35.717" Score="15" ViewCount="292432" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not with the intention of saving fuel (as I have seen many answers assuming savings in fuel while doing this). But I have this habit of putting the vehicle into neutral before approaching stops (red lights). The main reason behind doing this being, is to reduce the strain of holding the brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends is arguing that it's not good for the transmission system, shifting the transmission from &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; while the vehicle (with automatic transmission) is moving. I couldn't agree with him, as I couldn't find any issues with this. Also I couldn't find any information regarding the same on the manual for Toyota Corolla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any technical details about this? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank you in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1991" LastEditorUserId="1991" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T06:48:48.277" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T14:04:05.910" Title="Automatic transmission: Is shifting to neutral while approaching stops bad?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2012-07-10T15:54:42.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by checking tire balancing and alignment. Then after you can start investigating some others causes (like suspension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T15:54:42.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2012-07-10T16:20:26.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being in &lt;strong&gt;Neutral&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Drive&lt;/strong&gt; should have negligible to no effect on the distance the vehicle travels when the accelerator is not pressed because the torque converter disengages the engine below predetermined RPM levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you somehow were to push just a little too hard and sent the transmission into &lt;strong&gt;Reverse&lt;/strong&gt; instead of stopping in &lt;strong&gt;Neutral&lt;/strong&gt;, you would most likely be faced with purchasing a new transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rafi: If, by your question, you mean to say that you put the transmission into &lt;strong&gt;Neutral&lt;/strong&gt; while waiting at a stop light, then this would not harm the transmission in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it will not harm your transmission to shift into &lt;strong&gt;Neutral&lt;/strong&gt; while your vehicle is in motion, the additional wear on your brakes by leaving the transmission in &lt;strong&gt;Drive&lt;/strong&gt; will be negligible over the life of the brake pads. It is that minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T12:19:22.227" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T12:19:22.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2012-07-10T16:33:39.837" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you threw a wheel weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's consider this quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_balance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or&#xA;  wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and&#xA;  lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering&#xA;  wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to&#xA;  unbalance, usually increases with speed. Vehicle suspensions can&#xA;  become excited by unbalance forces when the speed of the wheel reaches&#xA;  a point that its rotating frequency equals the suspension’s resonant&#xA;  frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has most likely happened is that one of the little weights placed around the rim of the wheel has been lost.  If you visually inspect your wheels, you'll likely see several of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOvJe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire weight made of Zinc&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also likely see a shiny spot on the wheel where one of the weights used to be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the problem, it is a straightforward process for a tire shop to rebalance the wheels.  This can be made even simpler if you can tell them which wheel is problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T16:33:39.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3881" CreationDate="2012-07-10T19:43:20.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On BMWs when the blower motor goes off the reservation, it is usually the final stage/blower motor resistor. Does your car have one of those? If so, check it as it could be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T19:43:20.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3908" CreationDate="2012-07-10T19:50:59.263" Score="4" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have limited experience with cars. I bought a 2001 Mazda 626 to commute to and from school a few weeks ago. Today when merging on the freeway I noticed that the engine sounded like it was working too hard and was turning at between 4,000 and 4,500 RPMs at 60-65 MPH. At one point the car let out a single violent jerk (no change in driving/RPMs before and after). Off the freeway acceleration was poor and rough. I parked it, went inside, had a panic attack, and then took it for a second test drive. It was fine after having sat for about 10-15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous owner reported experiencing this problem 1-2 times. He had taken it to a mechanic prior to selling it to get a recommendation on the transmission, but the problem could not be reproduced in test drives. Fluid levels were good. The seller gave me the maintenance records, should I call the same mechanic or seek a different one? Should I request that the mechanic do more than test drive the vehicle to try to diagnose a possible transmission problem that is presently inconsistent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1992" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T21:30:09.273" Title="What to do when a mechanic can't reproduce possible transmission problems?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3907" CreationDate="2012-07-10T21:30:09.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That rev range does sound high.  It's sounds like the transmission is trying to shift to overdrive (the highest drive gear) but isn't succeeding (scary jerk but no change in speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dustbury.com/626/trans.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;internet research&lt;/a&gt; indicates that the CD4E transmission in the automatic 626s from that era could have potential problems.  However, reading further, I begin to wonder if there could be a user interface or a computer problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, that link cites potential problems with the Hold button and / or O/D light.  If the car is convinced that you want it to stay in a lower gear (i.e., via a faulty Hold button), it could produce symptoms similar to what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this situation occurs again (or frequently), I would try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually shifting gears (i.e., down into 3 and back to 4) to see if that resets the computer or sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clicking the hold / overdrive button to see if it's stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parking, turning off the car, counting to ten and restarting (much like you did the first time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of the above works, that would indicate to me that there is a computer, control or wiring issue, not a problem with the transmission.  With modern cars (of which this is one), it's very easy for the mechanic to scan error or sensor codes via the OBD-II port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T21:30:09.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3934" CreationDate="2012-07-10T21:47:09.490" Score="4" ViewCount="7424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is every BMW service, always needed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW 325i 2004. It's supposed to be due for a service. The advisor says it includes the regular oil change, check fluids and top off fluids as well as differential oil change and it will cost $699. The only thing I see that may be worth doing, besides the oil change, is the differential oil change. Is this really worth doing? In the past I've done these types of scheduled maintenance only to discover a week later that I needed new brake pads but they didn't even check the brakes—unrelated but still—I'm leery of these expensive maintenance procedures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this service really necessary? I'm wondering what others do about these scheduled maintenances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1993" LastEditorUserId="1993" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T01:57:11.300" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T01:57:11.300" Title="Is every BMW service, always needed?" Tags="|bmw|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3911" CreationDate="2012-07-10T22:56:08.857" Score="24" ViewCount="110981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was always yelled at by my father when I was first starting to drive when I left the A/C on when I turned off the car, and then later turned it back on, with the reasoning that I was ruining / decreasing the life of my engine. Is this true? (I currently drive an  '03 Chevy S10, if that matters, though I'm more interested in a general answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1994" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T22:15:44.503" Title="Is starting your car with the A/C on bad?" Tags="|engine|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2012-07-10T23:36:49.907" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not at all. You may be in some small way reducing the life of your starter, but this would be pretty negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start with the A/C switch on, you will be starting with the A/C Compressor clutch engaged, which means the starter must turn both the engine and the compressor; altogether a rather trivial amount of force in comparison to the force needed to spin the motor with the compressor clutched disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten it started, the compressor would be robbing some non-zero percentage of the motor's power, just as the alternator and power steering pump would. One could argue perhaps for some reduction in fuel economy during the startup process, but hey you've got a cold car to get into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put this in perspective, think of hotter climates like Arizona. Most cars have remote starters, and the leave their A/C on full time so that when they start their cars from inside their house, the cabin is a reasonable temperatures. I'm also convinced that engines in those climates last much longer than those from colder ones, due to less extreme temperature transitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T23:36:49.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-11T12:52:49.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 89 Buick Century Custom. On the first start of the day, I have no problem. No smoke and no difficulty starting. However, after the car warms up, say, after driving to a gas station the following happens: When I attempt to restart, it just cranks and cranks. I pause and let it set for about 5 seconds. I turn the ignition again and it starts after a few cranks. It bumbles a bit and acts like it is going to die as white smoke comes out of the exhaust for maybe 3 to 5 total seconds. Other times, it pops right off with no smoke. This seems to be a warm weather issue only as I don't really have a problem when during winter. I've read about fluids leaking but most of those address blue colored smoke or things that happen on the cold start up, which is not my problem. Also, I cannot be sure, but I think I might smell just a bit of gas after the car restarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other's experiences with this? Ideas? A mechanic told me that all old GM's do this, but I'm not satisfied with that answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1996" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T02:32:10.087" Title="White smoke from tail pipe on operating temp start" Tags="|starting|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2012-07-11T13:26:51.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is your coolant level? If it was dropping slowly over time, that plus the white smoke might indicate a bad head gasket.  A cracked head that only leaks when warm could be it, too.  Does it smell like Antifreeze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T02:32:10.087" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T02:32:10.087" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3734" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:20:34.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll need more information. Are you sure the message isn't: &quot;FORD KEYFREE SWITCH IGNITION OFF PRESS POWER&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the closest I can get, using to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOCFOC/~MUS~LEN/40/12focog1e.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012 manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the accessories coming on when you try? If so, then it is switching modes properly but may not be able to communicate with the fob to authorize the engine to start. You may need to hold the keyfob near the steering column. This is according to page 263, where if the keyfob does not have enough power to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That message just indicates that the system is ready, from what I understand. Pressing the ignition button should switch to ACC/ON modes and with a working keyfob, start the car. There are seperate messages that let you know your keyfob isn't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:20:34.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3741" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:25:41.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have foreign objects coming into the combustion chamber. Barring the plugs themselves from being the problem (incorrect heat range shouldn't cause this, wrong plug length could), are there any holes along the intake tract where foreign objects could be ingested by the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:25:41.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2058" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:30:44.820" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be incorrectly torqued wheels, loose disc brake calipers, brake pad shims, suspension pieces loading/unloading from the weight shift. If they just did the tires, take it back and tell them to take a look (for free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try slowing the car down with the engine. If it's manual, just downshift. If it is automatic, shift the selector to one of the lower gears at speed to force the transmission to downshift. See if the clunk happens. If so, it's probably suspension. If not, brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:30:44.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2122" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:37:07.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you car is well used in harsh climates, the catalytic converter may be hard to remove. Are the bolts all rusty? Try loosening one--will it budge easily? Exhaust parts tend to be annoying to remove if the car is old enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if it's clean and comes off easily there's no other risk in messing with the cat. This is not unheard of on front wheel drive cars. Just be sure to disconnect any oxygen sensors attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to trace the fluid lines from the differential to the fluid reservoir, if I read that part correctly. If you can get your eyes around anything in the way, that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:37:07.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3769" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:41:02.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find a Japanese car that doesn't have the connectors strategically arranged to where it's not possible to connect the wrong things together. There should be a matching connector somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to that are diagnostic connectors used at the factory and dealerships to test components. Those will not have their counterparts anywhere in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless someone has previously hacked up that wiring harness, it should just hook back up, since your lights were working before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:41:02.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3909" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:59:26.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Needed? Probably not. But the dealership won't tell you that. They'll probably tell you can choose to not do it now, but it will be a problem if a part breaks later on down the road because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a really good idea to keep a car on a regular maintenance schedule. The dealer would like you to do it there because they make a high margin on them. Smaller shops will probably cost less. Doing it yourself, even less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all the maintenance items are ever &lt;em&gt;needed&lt;/em&gt;, it's more of a preventative thing. Like, your timing belt may last twice as long as recommended, but since it's so crucial, you replace it like clockwork. The windshield wipers? Just wait till they go bad. There's a whole continuum of &quot;priorities&quot; of maintenance items. The dealer will probably make all of them seem like they are crucial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the wiper blades will kill your children because the time you need them will be when it's raining hard and you'll swerve and fly off a cliff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of my personal opinion about dealerships, the fluid changes are a good idea to do. Why it costs $700 is beyond me, that's insane. Any place should be able to do that. The dealer, however, probably keeps track of what vehicles come in according to the maintenance schedule and which don't, and I wouldn't put it past some dealerships to use that against you in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T18:36:53.827" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T18:36:53.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4473" CreationDate="2012-07-11T19:08:23.723" Score="2" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a Suzuki Alto (also known as a Maruti Alto in India) and have found it very difficult to obtain a Haynes manual for it. Does one exist in the UK, or is there an equivalent source to go to when servicing my vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:31:55.197" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:31:55.197" Title="Where can I find a Haynes manual/equivalent for Suzuki Alto" Tags="|manual-transmission|suzuki|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-11T21:57:36.907" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3942/why-doesnt-the-engine-stall-out-when-you-come-to-a-stop-with-an-automatic-trans&quot;&gt;Why doesn&amp;#39;t the engine stall out when you come to a stop with an automatic transmission?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I press both pedals simultaneously. I can feel my car trying to go forward and if I let off the brake a slight bit, I move. How can I do this without stalling like I would on a manual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1994" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T01:12:11.920" Title="How can I rev my engine in drive while holding the brake and not stall?" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-07-13T16:12:25.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3942" CreationDate="2012-07-12T01:34:20.220" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that revving the engine on an automatic transmission car while holding the car stationary with the brakes causes premature transmission wear and early failure. This action causes the fluid to overheat. It also damages the torque converter and driveshaft or cv joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at advertisements for performance torque converters they will mention antiballooning,furnaced brazed fins and roller bearings. These are all needed if you want to abuse the drive train by stalling the transmission with the brake. By pressing the brake and the gas pedal at the same time it is possible to spin the tires. The technique is as you described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T15:56:31.410" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T15:56:31.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2012-07-12T08:30:36.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this will help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/car_accessories/VW/Polo_3-door_and_Coup%C3%A9/10_1990/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/car_accessories/VW/Polo_3-door_and_Coup%C3%A9/10_1990/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1989" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T08:30:36.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2012-07-12T15:12:40.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked on VWs and Audis for a while, we had some mkIV's like yours with worn out ignition switches from heavy key rings. My advice is to keep the weight of the key ring to something reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T15:12:40.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3932" CreationDate="2012-07-12T17:29:41.260" Score="4" ViewCount="32858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mazda 3 sedan with ~100,000 miles on it (it's the 2.0L version). Last October, I noticed a significant clanging noise that was coming from the rear of the vehicle whenever I went over some small bump. I was told I had a rear spring that was broken, and had both of the rear springs replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have noticed a similar clanging sound coming from the back of the vehicle. I took it to a couple of mechanics, and they said that the rear sway bar links needed to be replaced, and showed me how they were loose and had some give in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed this replacement myself last weekend, and I've noticed that, for the most part, the clanging has gone away. Unfortunately, it hasn't gone away completely. When I go over a major bump, like a speed bump or other major incline with a sharp drop, I still notice a sound like I noticed before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as significant as I previously noticed, but I'm kind of at the end of what I know in terms of troubleshooting. If possible, I'd like to fix this myself, because I am trying to learn more about how my vehicle works. I don't know how to go about diagnosing the problem, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that I installed the rear sway bar links incorrectly? I've looked at them, and they don't have the give the old ones had, but the one on the passenger side looks like it's at somewhat of an odd angle... this could be my imagination.  Here's a picture of the sway bar link install: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDtFA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I may have done incorrectly is that I didn't actually remove the sway bar to install the links, I removed the old links and then flexed the new links into position with the sway bar in place. In hindsight, this was probably not a great idea. :| The nuts are nylon lock-nuts, so I'm hesitant to remove them and try to install it again, since this might screw up the nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there someone that might be able to give me some pointers as to what I should look for and how I might be able to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2003" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T19:10:18.963" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T21:54:20.607" Title="Clanging in back of Mazda 3" Tags="|suspension|mazda|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3553" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:32:01.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a hitch from from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.Reese-hitches.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reese-hitches.com&lt;/a&gt; on my 1999 escort wagon this week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reese-hitches.com/search?q=RT-443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Class I, 1-1/4 inch Receiver Hitch Part No: RT-443&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) T-One Connector Wiring Light Kit Part No: 118344 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hitch worked out fine, but the wiring harness is not right, and apparently they do not make one for the escort wagon (we have a 5 plug harness going to the tail light--the item they list is a 3 prong, and will not fit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T02:40:34.457" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T02:40:34.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3930" CreationDate="2012-07-12T20:38:23.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most common cause of broken springs are worn out struts. It is possible that the struts are bottoming out. Does the car have a lot of body sway while cornering? Does it keep bouncing if you push down on the bumper real hard five or six times? Is the rubber suspension stop damaged or missing? Notice any oil stains on the strut body? Any of these are signs of worn struts or shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:49:17.290" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:49:17.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3741" CreationDate="2012-07-12T23:28:11.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bosch book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0470057572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Gasoline Engine Management&quot;&lt;/a&gt; has good information on troubleshooting spark plugs by appearance. It's a very useful book all-around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They distinguish between damage to the center electrode and damage to the ground electrode (or electrodes in the case of the Platinum+4's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Center electrodes can be melted or eroded by thermal overload due to auto-ignition (i.e. knocking). If the auto-ignition/thermal overload is bad enough, you can end up with simultaneous damage to the center electrode and ground electrode(s), and sometimes you end up with soft/spongy/cracked insulator tips (the white part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just the ground electrode that is eroded, for causes they point to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aggressive fuel and oil additives. Deposits or other factors interfering with flow patterns in combustion chamber. Engine knock. No thermal overloading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T23:28:11.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3909" CreationDate="2012-07-13T02:09:51.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would follow the maintenance schedule that's in your owner's manual. I wouldn't worry so much about the service package (e.g. 60,000 mile service) the dealership is trying to sell you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership service package many times contains things that aren't in your maintenance schedule, or are done sooner than your maintenance schedule requires. The dealerships don't usually customize their services packages to each car or car line they sell; they have more of a catch all. So, for example, car A requires the timing belt to be changed at 90,000 miles, Car B requires it at 60,000 miles. Since the dealership sells and services both Car A &amp;amp; B they include a timing belt change in the 60,000 mile service. If you own car A you just changed your timing belt at 66% of its life. They also pad their services with extras. For example, your maintenance schedule says to rotate the tires every 7,500 miles. The service package includes rotate and balance, but you don't need to balance your tires unless they are out of balance (e.g., you feel a vibration at X MPH.) Your maintenance schedule says check the steering and suspension components for signs of wear, while the dealership package includes an alignment. You don't need an alignment unless you have irregular tire wear or a symptom that needs to be fixed (e.g., the steering wheel is off center). I could go on and on but I think you get the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T02:09:51.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3936" CreationDate="2012-07-13T03:56:51.287" Score="2" ViewCount="3318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new motorcycle (with clutch and six gears) and am learning to ride from the internet. I haven't found the answer of the following question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know when I should shift gear only by seeing the speedometer and tachometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1252" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:45:33.033" Title="How do I know when I should shift gear only by seeing the speedometer and tachometer?" Tags="|shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3935" CreationDate="2012-07-13T04:30:31.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real rule is that you have to keep the tach between the idle speed (usually ~500 RPM) and the redline (probably around 10000 for a bike). In practice you'll usually want to find the band where the engine feels most comfortable. This is based more on sound and feel than anything. If the bike lurches or nearly stalls as you're letting the clutch out, you need to wait and shift later, but if the engine is revving high and you end up getting an engine brake effect when you let the clutch out, you should shift earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, generally speaking your engine is better at producing power at higher RPMs so the faster you are trying to accelerate the closer to the redline you would push each shift. If you're just driving around town your shifts are generally going to be well before you get anywhere close to the redline and may only span 1000 or fewer RPMs especially on the last couple of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get used to this you'll do it by sound and feel and will almost never look at the tach unless you're really pushing it and waiting until the last second to shift every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T04:30:31.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3938" CreationDate="2012-07-13T04:54:19.840" Score="15" ViewCount="90638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1984 Toyota Supra that is now exclusively a track car. The last round out we let some less experienced drivers take the wheel and they basically destroyed the transmission. Nothing but 4th gear works now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been making the rounds at some local junkyards looking for a replacement, but have yet to find one. I've seen that there are rebuild kits available online for a couple hundred bucks, but I'm a little scared of cracking open a transmission. I've nearly taken the entire car apart and put it back together including swapping out a cracked block, but the head and transmission are the two pieces I try to stay away from touching for fear of not being able to get them back together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the fact that the transmission can barely be forced into gear and 4th is the only gear that works at all is it even worth trying to rebuild? And secondly, is rebuilding a transmission something that a non-professional should attempt to do on his own? And if so are there a lot of special tools that will be required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:28:27.660" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:28:27.660" Title="How difficult is it to rebuild a transmission?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3937" CreationDate="2012-07-13T09:47:13.887" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not something I've ever attempted, but I know people who have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The innards involve a lot of small springs, shims, etc (mainly in the synchros), and these can often have a habit of flying off when released! It is something that should only be attempted in a decent, clean workshop/garage so you can keep track of all the bits as you take it apart, and do so carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect from your description that it probably isn't worth trying to rebuild as the gears are probably wrecked, but if you have the facilities it might be an interesting learning experience to try taking it apart - I imagine you'll find some badly damaged gears and bits of teeth and swarf in the oil, but you might be lucky and find that it is rebuildable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source another, then have a go at dismantling this one - if you get lucky and it can be rebuild, then you've got a spare next time someone wrecks it, and if not, you've not lost anything except your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T09:47:13.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3935" CreationDate="2012-07-13T09:53:39.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's somewhat hard to explain. Keep in mind two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never let your engine stall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never let your tachometer red line &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine speed for both case will vary for different vehicles. Engine speed between the red line on tachometer and idle speed is the safe region for gear shifting. But there is a particular RPM where your bike will deliver Maximum Torque (check manual); if you shift at that RPM, you will get the greatest acceleration. But if you keep your tachometer needle around middle of the meter, then you will get better mileage, better engine life, and less maintenance. Overall, simply feel your bike's engine and ride smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1994" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T15:45:33.033" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:45:33.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3948" CreationDate="2012-07-13T12:51:10.760" Score="4" ViewCount="5503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Primera, Diesel which has been working without any issues. Last  night I drive it 40 miles, parked, then tried to use it 2 hours later but couldn't start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I turn the key, the dashboard lights up (no warnings or errors) but then nothing happens. I can't hear the starter motor attempt to start. The car battery seems okay as the headlights work (they were off when I try turning the key).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please can you advise what the cause might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T21:52:04.620" Title="Why does the starter motor not start on my 2003 Nissan Primera?" Tags="|starting|nissan|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3940" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:17:13.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that your battery has enough charge to light the headlights and dash, but not enough to turn the starter. Typically though in this case you will hear some sort of click when you turn the ignition to &quot;start.&quot; Your description says you hear nothing, however. That points me to consider that some sort of an electrical interlock (safety system) is preventing the car from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an automatic transmission, check that the transmission is fully in park or fully in neutral. It may help to shift through the gears and return to park. Make sure your foot is firmly on the brake when you turn the key. Automatic transmission cars won't start in anything other than park or neutral, and sometimes you need to depress the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a manual transmission, make sure your foot is fully on the clutch. Modern manual transmission cars require the clutch to be depressed before starting, to prevent the car from lurching forward when you turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, these are the simple solutions. If it's not one of these, the troubleshooting gets more involved. Though if you get this far and it still won't start, it doesn't hurt to get out the jumper cables to positively rule out a battery problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Could also be a bad starter solenoid, or bad connection to the starter solenoid. See an earlier question and answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1426/car-suddenly-decides-to-not-crank?rq=1&quot;&gt;Car Suddenly Decides To Not Crank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T18:40:42.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3943" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:23:15.897" Score="22" ViewCount="26237" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you come to a stop with a manual transmission you have to push the clutch in or take it out of gear to keep the engine from stalling out. What keeps the engine from stalling in an automatic transmission. Even when I rev the engine while holding the brake the engine won't stall out, I can tell the car is in gear because it's trying to move forward but the engine stays running. If I tried this with a manual transmission the engine would stall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1994" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T21:05:13.290" Title="Why doesn't the engine stall out when you come to a stop with an automatic transmission?" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3942" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:39:38.440" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that an automatic doesn't stall out while &quot;in gear&quot; and at a stop, while a manual transmission does, is that automatic transmissions use a hydraulic torque converter to connect the engine to the transmission, while manual transmissions use a friction clutch. These two systems do a similar job in a very different way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A torque converter uses fluid to transfer the power, and so it can &quot;slip,&quot; effectively disengaging the engine from the drive wheels at low speeds. When you come to a complete stop in an automatic transmission car, the torque converter starts slipping, allowing the engine to keep turning even though the wheels have stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get the friction clutch of a manual transmission to slip is to depress the clutch pedal. If you come to a stop in a manual transmission car without depressing the clutch pedal, the engine stops turning when the wheels stop turning, and the car stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Wikipedia's articles on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter&quot;&gt;torque converters&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch&quot;&gt;clutches&lt;/a&gt; for a more thorough treatment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="170" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T23:08:29.163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T23:08:29.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3940" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:47:41.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to mac's suggestions, the clutch safety switch could have failed (if a manual trans).  Starter could have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:47:41.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-13T17:26:11.557" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced a cylinder head gasket on my 1993 Holden Apollo (Same engine as the toyota camry 5S-FE). However when I went to get TDC I think I may have forgotten to put the car in Neutral. Could this have caused any damage to the engine? The car won't start now that it's all back together and I fear something has gone wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2010" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T18:57:58.770" Title="Top Dead Centre" Tags="|engine|toyota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3945" CreationDate="2012-07-13T18:18:22.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving the car in gear should not have had any effect, when you turned the engine it would have simply turned the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the distributor may be 180 degrees out but I need more information from you about the condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T18:18:22.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3945" CreationDate="2012-07-13T18:57:58.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four stroke engines get to TDC twice during a cycle - if you timed the engine off the wrong one (TDC on exhaust cycle), the engine will not fire as the timing will be out by 180°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T18:57:58.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3940" CreationDate="2012-07-14T07:35:06.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fault was with the earth strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the AA who came and fitted a new (temporary) earth strap from the battery to the engine and the engine now starts up okay again first time, every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T07:35:06.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3955" CreationDate="2012-07-14T10:39:25.630" Score="3" ViewCount="2959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1982 Mercedes W123 (engine M102 - gasoline, 2.0L, 80kW, with Stromberg 175CDT carburetor). The car has been modified to run on LPG, the modification consists of adding a LPG tank, vaporizer and connecting the output of the vaporizer to the air intake of the engine (between the air filter and carburetor). Electric valves make sure that only one type of fuel is turned on (typical cold start procedure: switch to gasoline, start the engine, drive until the engine is at least 40C, turn gasoline off, drive until the carburetor is empty, switch to LPG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modification was done a long time ago and car worked perfectly. The problem started after I rear-ended another car, so it could be something bending or breaking (or it could be a coincidence). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When cold, the engine idles rough, when hot (60C or hotter), it idles OK. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The RPM is limited to about 3200 - when the car is stationary (and in neutral gear), flooring the gas pedal only does to 3200RPM, but releasing it half way keeps the RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine has little power. It takes forever to accelerate to faster than 80km/h and the car is especially slow when going up a hill. This is the same no matter which fuel (gasoline or LPG) is used.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the throttle linkage so flooring the pedal opens the throttle all the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added oil to the carburetor (it takes oil designed for automatic transmissions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be wrong? Can this be because of worn out clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T16:31:24.830" Title="Engine does not have enough power (and has limited RPM)" Tags="|engine|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3952" CreationDate="2012-07-14T14:24:26.393" Score="3" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '94 mazda b4000 recently lost electricity to the cab and the engine won't turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will get in, the seatbelt beeping will start, then that will stop.  I will put the key in the ignition and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a voltmeter on my battery and its registering 12v (which is a bad but usable battery i think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the under hood fuses and all look good, but i have no way of knowing if the relay's are good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The under-dash fuses are also mostly ok, one was burned out, but i replaced it and nothing helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to jump start it, and nothing came on in the cab and the starter didn't turn over, although i only tried for a few minutes before deciding that i would have seen some lights come on by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can i check? I need it running to get it to the mechanic :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;As of this morning, if you let it sit, the dash will get power, and the radio and heater will come on if you turn the key a bit.  Once you try and engage the starter, you will hear a brief click (doesn't even sound to me like it turned over all the way) and then everything will die for a few minutes again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit2:&#xA;I have charged the battery (currently reading 12.8v up from 11.8v)  and it has not changed the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastEditorUserId="566" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T14:10:44.673" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T16:01:27.007" Title="Lost electricity to cab and Engine won't turn over" Tags="|electrical|mazda|starter|fuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3954" CreationDate="2012-07-14T16:36:10.750" Score="2" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a bumper on a 1997 Ford Escort Station Wagon.  Would a regular Ford Escort bumper do the trick or are they not compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2013" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T16:38:45.627" Title="Ford Escort and Station Wagon Bumper Compatible?" Tags="|ford|escort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2012-07-14T18:56:53.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery#Terminal_voltage&quot;&gt;open circuit battery terminal voltage&lt;/a&gt; of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box light was on for days and drained the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that it was much cheaper to purchase a light-duty car battery charger than having a mechanic visit, let alone towing the car to a repair shop. I just left the charger do its job for a day or so and everything went back to normal. I got my car fixed for 60 euros or so, and got a car battery charger for free...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T18:56:53.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-14T20:38:21.917" Score="1" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've placed an order for a new Nissan Qashqai and we've gone with the Tekna grade that comes with front, back and side cameras. I've seen that people have started to kit their cars out with cameras to catch accidents, so I wonder if I can put the two together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has any tried it? I'm sure it's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; but wonder whether it'll void the warranty or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T17:32:44.467" Title="Nissan Qashqai camera recorder" Tags="|nissan|camera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3951" CreationDate="2012-07-14T22:02:15.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the sites I've checked the fronts are the same the rears are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T22:02:15.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3949" CreationDate="2012-07-15T16:31:24.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This almost sounds like you have an obstruction somewhere in the intake path as it sounds to me that the carb either doesn't open all the way or it can't get enough air in even if the carb is fully opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CD175s have a (rubber) diaphragm - these get old, crack and tear after a while. That would be the first check I'd make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T16:31:24.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4790" CreationDate="2012-07-15T17:31:39.607" Score="5" ViewCount="8299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea what may have failed but before I take my door off I thought I should ask here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivers window switch has 5 positions, open (one press takes the window all the way to the bottom), down (while button is held), off, up (while button is held), and close (one press takes the window all the way to the top)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This week some interesting symptoms began:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both the automatic positions have failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can hold the down button to open the window, but when I press move it to the up position it moves about an inch before stopping. I need to repeat this numerous times to get the window to the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a failure of the Window Shut sensor cause this? This is my current assumption, and when the weather improves I will check - I'm guessing that if that sensor failed in such a way that it always thinks the window is at the top, the auto would fail, the safety cutoff will let me press up but will then stop the motor, and the down functionality will be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - looks like there is no Window Shut Sensor, but instead the motor and switch have some circuitry which measures resistance. The garage tried to check it today but it turns out the switch unit is non standard (they used one off a UK spec Forester, and pressing window up locked the door :-) - but their diagnosis is that it is probably not the motor. Once they get a new switch unit ordered they will fit it and we'll see if that's what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:39:44.500" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T23:36:03.220" Title="My drivers side window no longer closes with one press of the button" Tags="|subaru|power-windows|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-15T19:37:48.197" Score="2" ViewCount="2777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of making a 1977 Nissan 280z road worthy once again after having it sit for about a year. Here's what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned fuel injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned fuel lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced air filter(high&#xA;flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure tested fuel pump &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passed emissions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for some reason, once I've run the car for a bit and warmed it up, the engine starts misfiring badly.  It's about at 50% of the time when acceleration on first gear; I press the accelerator and it starts stuttering, and the rpm gauge jumps around wildly.  The only way past it is to either stop wait for it to pass, or press the accelerator lightly and &quot;ride it out&quot; all the while having it misfire. Once I'm able to get past this episode it runs fine until I start hitting higher RPMs at 3rd and 4th gear.  I can't go any faster than 50mph on the freeway, as the same thing happens as on 1st gear, but it always happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some research has led me to believe it may be either the EGR valve, or the Ignition Coil, both of which I believe are stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T18:24:46.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:24:46.093" Title="Engine misfire during load at 2500+ rpms on 3rd and 4th gears" Tags="|nissan|ignition|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2012-07-16T11:01:00.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On anything post 1997 i've seen, when the starter motor is engaged the A/C clutch is disengaged and any non-essential electrical loads are automatically turned off until the engine is actually running. It makes no difference. On an older car the only difficulty is going to be starting a cold engine and if it was cold, you wouldn't have the A/C on in the first place :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your dad may have gotten confused with the issue of starting with the heat on can make the engine take longer to warm up to running temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2018" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T11:01:00.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3597" CreationDate="2012-07-16T11:33:55.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any paint, there will be a degree of fading and yellowing from the  UV radiation present in sunlight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at old cars which have been left in the sun, they look uneven in colour and often quite faded. This is normally repaired by cutting away the &quot;dead&quot; and faded layer of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern paints this effect is reduced compared to older paints, but they will still fade over time. This gives problems when cars are resprayed after accident damage, as there is normally a visible difference in the colour between panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UV_degradation&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UV_degradation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T11:33:55.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2012-07-16T11:37:13.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's still like that after balancing, there's a chance of debris in the tyre (perhaps water). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T11:37:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2012-07-16T16:01:27.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should also check the battery connections.  Make sure they are clean and secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T16:01:27.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2012-07-17T07:47:40.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work on diesel engines daily and totally love them. It's the lack of knowledge about diesel engines that makes people believe they are more expensive to maintain, repair or service...they arent..you dont have to replace plugs every time you service like you would on a petrol car and you dont have problems with plugs misfiring or distributors giving problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you have to do to service a diesel vehicle is change the oil and fuel filters and your diesel vehicle will be running like brand new again. It gives you more toque at lower rpm extending the life span of the engine itself as the rule is the more torque an engine has got the longer the life of it as you dont have to rev it up high for it to perform at its peak. Ooverall diesel does give you better service, reliability and is cheaper to maintain.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2024" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T11:03:28.510" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T11:03:28.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3968" CreationDate="2012-07-17T15:49:40.613" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found brotherstrucks.com and they have the window, but only with a green tint.  The local auto-window shops have the glass for over 3x the cost. Amazon doesnt appear to carry windows. Anybody know where I can get vent glass window for $50.00 or less (the brothers price)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T20:05:54.060" Title="Where can I find a vent window for an 86 C10?" Tags="|chevrolet|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-07-17T21:28:31.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3967" CreationDate="2012-07-17T17:02:53.410" Score="8" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are moving 1,000 miles away. Because we have dogs, we have to drive. We don't have enough stuff to merit a moving van, so we are loading up her 2007 Honda Fit with all of our worldly posessions. A little extra room would be really nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We contacted the Honda dealership, and they don't offer roof racks. The Fit doesn't have a trailer hitch and I think that is probably for the best, because its engine is only 80hp and probably can't pull a trailer. I have looked in to after-market cargo solutions but I am a fish-out-of water in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to boost the cargo space of this car? Our cargo is going to be large plastic totes, suitcases and a couple road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T12:41:52.487" Title="Extending the Cargo Space of a 2007 Honda Fit" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2012-07-17T19:41:36.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thule makes a rack that fits the Fit. You can then get a cargo box or some bike mounts (my personal choice would be the bike mounts, you may be likely to get more long-term use out of them), or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll be about $360 for the base rack, plus whatever bike mounts, cargo boxes, and accessories you get. I am a big fan of the Thule stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/fitguide/default.aspx?Language=en-US&amp;amp;Market=US&quot;&gt;Thule vehicle fit guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;looks like you need the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-US/US/Products/Base-Racks/Feet/480-Traverse-Foot-Pack&quot;&gt;480 traverse feet&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-US/US/Products/Base-Racks/LoadBars/LB50-50-Load-Bar-Pack-2-Pack&quot;&gt;50 in load bars&lt;/a&gt;, and fit kit 1312.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always go with longer load bars to get some extra width. Two bikes and a box would definitely need more than 50 inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T19:41:36.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3965" CreationDate="2012-07-17T20:05:54.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=16c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=16c&lt;/a&gt; lmc truck parts has it listed for 39.95&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T20:05:54.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-18T07:10:41.083" Score="2" ViewCount="2110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1997 model Kawasaki 4s champion (100cc 4 stroke bike). It have no tachometer . is it possible to install new tachometer on my bike. can anyone give some advise ?. thanks in advance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T19:52:16.507" Title="Installing Tachometer on bike" Tags="|motorcycle|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2012-07-18T12:41:52.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a towbar installed, that'd be a useful option for when you have to move larger objects around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T12:41:52.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3953" CreationDate="2012-07-18T12:46:13.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would require a degree of hacking the system, so I'm not sure if it's worthwhile if you want to preserve the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect that there are two options for doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom firmware or software for the system, which enables recording (unlikely), or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using splitters on the camera video outputs and having a separate device which records them (requires splicing cables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T12:46:13.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-07-18T14:07:33.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue. The PCM and fuel pressure regulator is the correct fix. It is not cheap, but it does address the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i recall, the issue has to do with ethanol having a lower boiling point than traditional gas. This causes it to vaporize on the fuel rail when the car's warm, but no long pumping gas because it's off. When you go to re-start the car, instead of liquid gas, you are spurting on fumes on the rail. Once the car cools sufficiently, the vapor recondenses to liquid so you can start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new PCM and fuel pressure regulator (i think that's what it is) creates a higher pressure inside the fuel system and the higher pressure increases the boiling point of the fuel, eliminating the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had issues with taking the gamble on this fix, but it did fix the problem. There is even a TSB on the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2029" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T14:07:33.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-18T14:42:03.633" Score="-1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about picking up my first motorcycle. I'm looking at older bikes, 60s-80s, primarily Japanese bikes. I'm plenty handy around cars, so the maintenance tasks don't concern me, but I'm wondering if finding replacement parts for these bikes will be very difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does one find parts for vintage bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T02:48:52.250" Title="Vintage motorcycle repair--where to find parts?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-11-06T15:06:05.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3974" CreationDate="2012-07-18T15:03:14.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on where you are and the individual make and type of the vehicle. The best bet is to join a local marque-specific owners club, these will usually have all the contacts you need, and many are actively involved in sourcing (and in some cases remanufacturing) rare parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to any older vehicle of course, not just bikes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T15:03:14.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3977" CreationDate="2012-07-18T15:50:14.767" Score="5" ViewCount="3999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my car.&#xA;My car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BMW 330D, 135kw, 2001 year, E46.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week ago my turbo charger got broken when I was driving. There was a lot of white smoke going out of exhaust and there was no power. I bought a new turbo charger and changed it. Now the strange thing is happening: when I press the accelerator there is no power until the rpm tachometer reaches 2500, then I need to release the accelerator and then press it again and only then the power is back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was not anything like before with an old turbo charger. Maybe someone know what might be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T20:59:33.150" Title="BMW 330D 2001 E46 Turbo Charger not working as expected after changing" Tags="|engine|bmw|diesel|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2012-07-18T16:22:51.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two possibilities occur to me: a too-large turbo or a too-loose wastegate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when I press the accelerator there is no power until the rpm&#xA;  tachometer reaches 2500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This almost sounds like the replacement turbo is too large.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when I press the accelerator there is no power until the rpm tachometer reaches 2500, then I need to release the accelerator and then press it again and only then the power is back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the whole combination, I wonder if the wastegate is staying open until you release the pedal and then re-apply.  Do you have a boost guage?  If so, are you seeing a slowly building boost with a sharper increase at 2500?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: even without a boost guage, you should be able to hear the turbo spinning up.  If I drive with my windows up, radio and vent fans off, I can hear the turbo spin up and blow off in sync with the boost guage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: based on the comments, I have to think that either the wastegate or the blowoff valve is opening when it should not.  If the turbo is spinning, the wastegate has to be at least partly closed (to enable the exhaust gases to spin up the turbo).  If the blowoff valve is opening at an odd time, the turbo could be spinning but venting the boost in a non-useful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T17:21:57.347" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T17:21:57.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2012-07-18T16:38:30.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer care of cgsheen at &lt;a href=&quot;http://desertdatsuns.freeforums.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Desert Datsuns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1st: If you haven't downloaded the Factory Service Manual from&#xA;  xenons30.com, please do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start here (if you haven't already):&#xA;  - Check ALL your rubber. By that I mean all the intake boots &amp;amp; connections, all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Make sure nothing&#xA;  is disconnected, cracked, or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check and clean ALL of your electrical connections on the EFI harness - including the plug and socket to the ECU. Get some&#xA;  electrical contact cleaner or better yet, De-Ox-It...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the Factory Service Manual (FSM), go to the &quot;EC&quot; Emission Control System section and follow the testing and&#xA;  troubleshooting section. You can test every sensor and component, AND&#xA;  it's connection to the ECU using simple tools and the procedures&#xA;  outlined. Don't replace parts unless they actually test bad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rationale: EFI systems react poorly to leaks in the boots and to&#xA;  vacuum leaks. That's unmetered air and it'll confuse the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The electrical connections and wiring in these cars are more than 30&#xA;  years old, and were never good at keeping the elements OUT in the&#xA;  first place. 90% of the EFI / ECCS trouble I see is electrical. Check&#xA;  and clean all of the electrical connectors - then do it again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The FSM is easy to follow, the tests aren't difficult at all, and&#xA;  don't require a lot of special tools. If you don't have an electrical&#xA;  meter, buy one at Harbor Freight for $4.00. May not sound like it at&#xA;  first, but going through the EFI troubleshooting / testing section&#xA;  will end up saving you a lot of time and aggravation, and you won't be&#xA;  replacing stuff that doesn't need replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have you played with the AFM? Has it been opened? DON'T touch it! Most&#xA;  people think they can adjust the AFM and make things work better...&#xA;  You can't. (I'll explain if anyone really needs to know why) If you've&#xA;  changed the spring setting in the AFM - change it back to it's&#xA;  original position. If you can't change it back......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &quot;2500 RPM&quot; comment has me contemplating something else, but do all&#xA;  the checks, cleaning, and tests FIRST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T16:38:30.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3970" CreationDate="2012-07-18T17:15:36.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can install an external tachometer that reads your wheel speed. There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0049IFX56&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for Kawasaki for $19USD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clamp onto a spark plug wire, others are 2 piece, where one small piece clamps onto your wheel, and the other clamps onto a fork and measures the wheel RPM - but those are more for bicycles, not motorcycles (where you'd like engine RPM - not wheel RPM). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! You can find more articles and forum posts by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&amp;amp;pws=0&amp;amp;q=external+motorcycle+tachometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Googling&lt;/a&gt; &quot;External Motorcycle Tachometer&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastEditorUserId="2020" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T19:52:16.507" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T19:52:16.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3991" CreationDate="2012-07-18T17:32:15.153" Score="5" ViewCount="2674" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has been rather sluggish lately - both ABS and TCS lights are on, which means there is a sensor error somewhere. I haven't had the time to look for and fix said error, but I have had to drive here and there. In doing so, I often find myself shifting my automatic transmission to 1st gear and then up to 2nd, 3rd, and finally D in order to get up to highway speed (60mph). Is this okay to do? I typically hold RPMs as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;GEAR    RPM    Action&#xA;1       5000   *shift*&#xA;2       4000   *shift*&#xA;3       3000   *shift*&#xA;D       2500   *cruise*&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets me up to about 65mph, if I were to not do that, it would only get me up to about 30mph in D (usually gets stuck in 1st). Pretty sure my wheel speed sensors are gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a '97 BMW 528i with 171k miles on the clock, purchased at 154k on the clock, engine head rebuilt at 168k. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:55:21.903" Title="Manually shifting an automatic transmission?" Tags="|bmw|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-18T19:00:24.027" Score="3" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed under my hood that a piece looks corroded through.  My car hasn't given any warnings or check engine lights and no liquid is coming through.  No one I ask knows what it is. Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/101255102843039720628/posts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://plus.google.com/101255102843039720628/posts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGkNV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2032" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T14:32:36.200" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T14:32:36.200" Title="2001 Audi A4 corroded part... What is it?" Tags="|engine|part-identification|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2012-07-18T20:47:21.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a check valve for the evaporative emissions system. Hard plastic tubing and the solenoid valve on the left side are strong clues for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T20:47:21.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3937" CreationDate="2012-07-18T20:58:46.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding a transmission often requires the use of a multi-ton press to get gears and bearings on and off a shaft.  It's possible to take the shaft and parts to a garage and ask them to do it for a nominal fee, but it can be a hassle.  I second the recommendation to source a replacement and only tear into your trashed one for educational purposes.  Personally, I'd pick up a rebuild/upgrade kit and have a shop install it, that way you know what you've got (as opposed to picking up something of unknown abusage at the local U-Pull-It).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T20:58:46.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3974" CreationDate="2012-07-19T03:46:56.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This place has lots of good stuff:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garagecompany.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garage Company&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:46:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3986" CreationDate="2012-07-19T04:02:12.847" Score="1" ViewCount="21933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla, which has a D, 2, and L gear.  I also have a steep driveway to climb everyday.  Which of these gears is most appropriate for going up steep inclines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1838" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T12:37:26.857" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T12:37:26.857" Title="Which gear should I use to climb a steep hill?" Tags="|toyota|shifting|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3985" CreationDate="2012-07-19T07:08:00.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have no faults with your transmission, it doesn't matter - an automatic transmission will automatically switch down  gear as and when it needs to. All the '2' gear does is not let you go over 2nd gear - which if you were heading downhill could make your engine over-rev...generally not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So D should be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T07:08:00.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3956" CreationDate="2012-07-19T07:49:54.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is the car? I think it's worth checking the fault codes, as sometimes a fault code can prevent an action like that. Clearing the fault codes can really improve a car if it hasn't had a computer connected in a while. Any faults which are persistent will come back and can then be worked on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T07:49:54.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3985" CreationDate="2012-07-19T08:39:47.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're carrying a high load, L is best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gears work as follows:&#xA;D = use whichever gear the computer decides/ Useful for everyday driving.&#xA;2 = use first or second, depending on speed. Useful when carrying high loads at low speeds.&#xA;L = stay in the lowest gear. Best for carrying high loads up steep inclines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T08:39:47.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2012-07-19T18:30:13.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this quite a bit, actually, and I don't think there's any difference in shifting from drive to neutral when the car is moving or stopped. The reason is that the torque converter is hydraulic, so it gives you transmission some slack in order to let it shift, just as if you were pushing on a clutch. The shifting cannot possibly put more wear on the trasmission that the transmission shifting between 2 and 3, for example, something that it does thousands of time in one year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The reason I shift into neutral at stop lights is that my car vibrates quite painfully when in drive and stopped. I haven't been able to figure that out yet, but that's another post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T16:45:40.173" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T16:45:40.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3976" CreationDate="2012-07-19T19:00:38.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked for boost leaks, or rather the absence of them? It's very easy to put the various piping back together and it looks like it is fitted correctly, but you still might end up with a boost leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T19:00:38.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3980" CreationDate="2012-07-20T20:36:34.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheel speed sensors would explain the ABS &amp;amp; TCS problems, but shouldn't affect the transmission.  Does your transmission fluid smell burnt?  Is the level OK?  Does the car shift normally at lower speeds?  Shifting an automatic manually doesn't hurt anything (unless you downshift at too high a speed or something), but it's hard to say what might happen with a potentially already-damaged unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T20:36:34.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2012-07-20T20:46:31.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a wheel bearing.  When they get worn they don't control the  wheel and axle as tightly as they are supposed to, so they can &quot;orbit&quot; or move around within the bearing.  My A4  has done this (apparently it's a common failure point on that model), the noise and vibration increase pretty linearly with speed.  At first it sounds like a noisy muffler, but if you don't get it fixed eventually it starts sounding like there's a helicopter in your trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T20:46:31.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2058" CreationDate="2012-07-20T20:57:30.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like either you've got a warped brake disk or some kind of crud (possibly brake pad) stuck to the disk.  Is it the same wheel your hand brake is connected to?  Just wondering if you possibly got your brakes hot then parked and applied your hand brake.  If so, that could have deposited a wad of brake pad on the disk.  It should be easy enough to check, just pull the wheel (and possibly the splash guard on the other side) and take a look.  If you jack up the whole back end and put the car in neutral, you might be able to rotate the wheel on the other side and see if the noisy brake disk is warped, but I wouldn't swear to it.  Probably best to take it to a brake shop and have them take a look at it, since you'll probably want to have the disk resurfaced or replaced anyway.  If it is just some pad material, it'll eventually wear off, but it's always better to be sure when dealing with brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T20:57:30.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3995" CreationDate="2012-07-20T21:29:11.270" Score="3" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I don't even know if it's a problem or a feature. I've seen that if I forget my indicators on (either left or right) and remove the keys + close the door the headlights and the back lights on the same side with the indicators remain lit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my first Audi and I only have it for a month, so excuse the stupid question. Is this a feature of some kind or a possible electrical problem. I should mention that if I leave I don't leave either of the indicators on, the headlights turn off without any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like an electrical problem. I'm amazed that it actually happens every time, on both sides, so it could be some kind of useless feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="793" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T21:31:18.973" Title="Audi A4 '05 strange electrical problem?" Tags="|headlight|audi|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3994" CreationDate="2012-07-20T21:31:18.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's actually standard Audi &amp;amp; VW behaviour, not an electrical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T21:31:18.973" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2012-07-24T10:44:04.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key differences between petrol and diesel engines is the method of combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol ignites with sparks or with compression. Diesel doesn't ignite so well, but burns much better through compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol engines inject the air/fuel mixture and then use spark plugs to ignite the mixture just after a piston reaches top dead centre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines compress air, and then add air/fuel mixture. As a result they run hotter. The compression and heat give combustion, rather than flash ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences between the fuels are measured on the octane or cetane rating.&#xA;Fuels with a high octane have a low cetane and are easy to ignite, so work well in petrol engines.&#xA;Fuels with low octane and high cetane ignite by combustion so work well in diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that a very small amount of petrol (0.5L in a full tank) can actually improve the efficiency of a car, but this must be treated as a rumour. Engine damage could still occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10% petrol will result in &quot;knocking&quot; or &quot;pinking&quot;, where the engine runs very rough. This is because the petrol will ignite prematurely in the diesel engine, and there will be a loss of power as the combustion happens over a longer time than with 100% diesel. Some damage may also occur to the fuel supply system as petrol is less lubricative than diesel, and strips out some of the lubrication needed for diesel pumps to work well.&#xA;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvjrT5mRj_U&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvjrT5mRj_U&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50% petrol will result in engine damage, as the incorrect timing of combustions will put high stresses on engine components. Something like this would happen: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuW7biMuslI&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuW7biMuslI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw2r_lIRgpY&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw2r_lIRgpY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% petrol will also kill the engine. Think along the lines of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hxe61AQI0ek&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hxe61AQI0ek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpJtRZl0uC4&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpJtRZl0uC4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other references&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T10:44:04.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3999" CreationDate="2012-07-25T14:46:32.130" Score="3" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an '97 Subaru Legacy. Far as I know, it still works perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, there's been a bad exhaust smell around the car when I park and get out. I can smell it inside the car on occasion, but not often. But every single time I get out, it's there, right in the immediate vicinity of the car on all sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic in passing said he &quot;didn't smell anything he wouldn't expect from a car of my age,&quot; but he didn't really look at it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is not super-strong, but it's strong enough to irritate me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T18:20:22.843" Title="Exhaust smell emanating from old car?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2012-07-25T18:20:22.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check for is an exhaust leak. If the exhaust is leaking some of it may be accumulating under the car instead of exiting out the back. This could be why you smell it on the side of the car when you get out. This could be dangerous if it is getting inside the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T18:20:22.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4001" CreationDate="2012-07-25T18:53:45.233" Score="2" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't squeal. It creaks in a constant, staccato fashion while I make right turns at low speeds.  What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2041" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:36:55.220" Title="2003 Ford Escort ZX2 has creaky steering" Tags="|power-steering|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4000" CreationDate="2012-07-25T19:36:55.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect worn tie rod ends.  Grab hold of one and give it a twist and see if there's any play.  If it's not too worn, you may be able to grease it and avoid replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also check your power steering fluid, but if that's low I'd expect it would creak on both left and right turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:36:55.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-25T22:29:04.407" Score="7" ViewCount="71152" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Jetta TDI check engine light recently came on, and a scan by Advance Auto revealed code P0401 -- EGR insufficient flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the vehicle to the local TDI guru, who gave me the option of removing the EGR from the system entirely, and replacing it with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_EGR_s/1834.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;race pipe&lt;/a&gt; (and a rechip to prevent the CEL from coming on).  The FAQ at Dieselgeek explains that there is no disadvantage to removing the EGR, and it saves the vehicle from future clogging, and with the addition of a race pipe, it gives +3hp over 3000rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/egr-system-clogging-TDI.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; explains that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of the EGR is to reduce NOx emissions produced during diesel or gasoline engine combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... it lowers peak combustion temperatures and reduces NOx emissions anywhere from 50%-75% vs. a non-EGR system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stealthtdi.com/TDI-Problems.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disabling the EGR increases NOx emissions, but also reduces particulate emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.egrvalve.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Soot buildup inside the manifold] further reduces engine performance and airflow, which in turn reduces combustion efficiency and increases other unwanted emissions, principally Co2 and particulate emission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this seems to imply that particulate emissions (and Co2) go up only after a build-up of soot occurs, and engine performance is degraded, but not as a direct result of removing the EGR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then later says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;All EGR systems reduce air flow, combustion efficiency and consequently engine power&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the complete effect of removing the EGR from this vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="700" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T09:27:08.270" Title="What effect will removing my EGR have?" Tags="|vw|emissions|tdi|egr|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4008" CreationDate="2012-07-26T03:08:40.753" Score="7" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Buick Century.  Lately, after driving around long enough for the engine to get hot, the idle speed will sometimes race.  The car will want to surge forward even when I'm not giving it any gas, and will roar when I'm in park/neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can happen while driving, or sometimes it'll act up only after I've stopped the engine completely, grabbed some groceries or whatever, and restarted the engine.  Sometimes it'll just fix itself while driving, but other times I have to stop the engine and let it cool down completely.  It never acts up when starting cold.  No check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what the issue might be, or where I can begin diagnosing the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T16:01:44.287" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T16:01:44.287" Title="Fast idle when engine is hot" Tags="|engine|buick|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2012-07-26T10:02:44.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jack up the car, apply silicone. Take the spare and hit it violently on the edge of tire. It will pop off in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2044" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T10:02:44.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4002" CreationDate="2012-07-26T14:23:26.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage is that tampering with emissions systems makes a vehicle no longer street legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, it probably won't hurt anything at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how removing EGR will increase power though.  EGR closes at high power settings anyways.  The gain would be entirely from some other feature of the racepipe (perhaps it's bigger).  The fact that there's no longer an EGR isn't going to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T14:23:26.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-26T14:42:31.323" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1463/what-to-check-when-buying-a-used-car&quot;&gt;What to check when buying a used car?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a used car. Nobody can't gives me the clear idea about that. Because someone said manufacturing year is the main one. You don't want to buy a more than 5 year from the manufacturing .At the same time another guy tell me some cars aren't frequently used (daily uses). So it would affect the engine life but they were used the 25k kilometers like that. So what should i do ? whenever i want to buy a used car ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2036" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T18:46:04.800" Title="What are the main things to be identified want to buy a USED car?" Tags="|maintenance|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-07-26T19:30:47.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4006" CreationDate="2012-07-26T18:46:04.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no guarantees with used cars, but you're mostly looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Appropriate miles for the years.  Too few miles will likely mean the car wasn't used often enough (some parts do not like sitting unused).  Lots of miles and there will be suspension wear that's hard to see (although, it can be a good sign for the engine as long trips are MUCH easier on an engine than city driving).  10,000-15,000 miles a year is considered normal for cars in the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rust.  Look carefully under the wheel arches and on the bottom of the doors.  Check the bottom of the car as well.  Some surface rust is expected under a car of age, but look for weak spots/holes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the car straight or is it crooked?  Should drive straight and body should look straight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Receipts.  It's not necessarily bad if someone doesn't have them (I don't keep mine, and I'm obsessive about maintenance!), but if someone DOES have all the maintenance receipts you can check and see how good they were about keeping up on routine maintenance, as well as any problems that might have been happening.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T18:46:04.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4003" CreationDate="2012-07-27T02:51:26.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some of the older GM  V-6's had issues with the throttle plate binding in the throttle body. Try to locate the throttle body. It can found by following the large plastic hose attached to the air cleaner box. If you remove the hose you may be able to see some carbon build up. Get a can of throttle cleaner at the local autoparts store and follow the instrutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T02:51:26.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T08:32:47.613" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I change the climatizer air filter in a 2005 Cordoba (2nd series I believe)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know for sure it's under the passenger seat, because I saw once a mechaning changing it. I want to do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2045" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T16:02:59.890" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T16:02:59.890" Title="Changing climatizer filter in Cordoba 2005" Tags="|ac|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4013" CreationDate="2012-07-27T09:18:58.680" Score="15" ViewCount="22188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which kind of crash does it need for a car to catch fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because I was discussing about an accident where a car crashed into a full-grown brown bear. Is it realistic under normal circumstances that the car could catch fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2046" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T22:07:07.640" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T02:09:43.137" Title="Car crash: when does a car catch fire?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2012-07-27T09:57:11.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any accident that causes the fuel system to rupture could potentially cause a fire. Petrol/Gasoline vapour is highly flammable, and sparks are frequently present in a crash situation (e.g. metal scraping along the road surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank on most passenger cars is underneath the rear of the vehicle, with a combination of metal and rubber hoses to get the fuel to the engine - it is easy for one or more of these to become dislodged in a heavy impact, or for the tank itself to be ruptured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T09:57:11.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="46607" CreationDate="2012-07-27T14:20:33.130" Score="3" ViewCount="4430" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Heavy Duty truck currently has Regular Duty rear leaf springs. The original springs broke when my dad owned the truck and had it a little over loaded. New Heavy Duty springs were too expensive, and were not available in the junk yards, so he replaced them with Regular Duty leaf springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Regular Hardbody trucks, there are 3 leaves in the rear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 at 7mm thick, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 at 13mm thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Heavy Duty Hardbody truck, there are 4 leaves in the rear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 at 8mm thick, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 at 14mm thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLH2S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture from the 1994 Service Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on Courtesy Parts yesterday looking at new rear leaf springs for my HD truck because no local junk yards and no eBay sellers have had the &quot;HD&quot; rear leaf springs for over a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yikes! New springs are still expensive @ $343.72 for &lt;strong&gt;each side&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1986.5 to 1994 Hardbody trucks call for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/55020m-spring-rear-suspension-truck-d21-01/1992-hdvg30e-11/1985-01/1992-fedhdfedwtcalhdcalwtvg30-hdvg3-p-109366.html?cPath=3178_3179_3272_3277&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part # 55020-D21003&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g7GmE.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Part # 55020-D21003&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/hardbody-truck-parts-d21-19865-1994/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/431-rear-suspension/-c-3178_3179_3272_3277.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Part # 55020-D21003&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1995 to 1997 Hardbody trucks call for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/55020r-spring-assy-leafrear-truck-hardbody-d21u-1995-12/1994-heavy-duty-30l-cyl-p-219693.html?cPath=5388_5389_5484_5488&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part # 55020-D21U002&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4y0G.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Part # 55020-D21U002&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/hardbody-truck-parts-d21u-1995-1997/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/431-rear-suspension/-c-5388_5389_5484_5488.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to Part # 55020-D21U002&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both were the same price, so what is the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the newer version have something that was improved upon? Would it still fit in my 1994?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd always thought if I found &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; HD version truck that I would be able to use those rear leaf springs. Now I wonder if I need to pay attention to the year as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if anyone has a pair of rear leaf springs for the Heavy Duty Hardbody truck, &lt;strong&gt;I am interested in them&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T20:20:02.167" Title="Nissan Hardbody Heavy Duty Rear Leaf Springs" Tags="|suspension|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2012-07-27T16:56:04.807" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three things are required, fuel, oxygen, and a source of ignition. Since around 1978 when the burning Pinto issue appeared, manufacturers have tried to design vehicles that limit the three from occuring together. Cars bursting into flames after an accident is a pretty rare event. According to these stats I got from the NFPA website, only 3% of vehicle fires were the result of a collision or rollover. Almost half (49%) were the result of mechanical failure, leaks, or worn out parts. Electrical issues caused 23% of the fires. So looking at all the data in a well maintained vehicle it is possible but not likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T16:29:14.640" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T16:29:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T19:50:38.437" Score="2" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several new-ish (2011+) Nissan cars that need key work (more keys/removing lost keys).  All have the new proximity key (with the slide-out door key).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my searching it seems that the only way to do this is with special equipment, but it seems that the equipment is available to locksmiths.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't want to go to the dealer or a locksmith and spend hundreds of dollars for each key.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How might I go about finding this type of programming equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2047" LastActivityDate="2017-11-20T22:14:11.000" Title="Nissan Key Programing" Tags="|nissan|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3766" CreationDate="2012-07-28T15:05:21.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like low fluid pressure, I would have your transmission looked at quickly. As for the noise when turning, it could be differential related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T15:05:21.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3393" CreationDate="2012-07-28T15:10:08.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise from the strain of the power steering pump can cavitate (or 'reverberate' is probably more accurate) through lines and even to the steering wheel itself. Check fluid levels, and pump condition. If it all checks out it may just be normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically bearings will not seize when they are already in motion. They can fail catastrophically, but it is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps to pinpoint the cause would be having someone inspect on a lift while someone else turns the wheel, if the problem can be reproduced on a lift. Otherwise, a rolling road or test drive with the hood open and a quite environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T15:10:08.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3953" CreationDate="2012-07-28T15:20:11.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a law for this in the US, the Magnuson-Moss Act. Warranties cannot be voided do to aftermarket parts that really have no effect on other systems, see: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T15:20:11.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3844" CreationDate="2012-07-28T15:24:05.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some stereos (although usually not OE ones) have fuses built in to the back of them. You'd have to remove it to see if it does and if it's blown. Otherwise, it may just be dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically OE stereos, and to an even greater extend OE video systems, are not worth the cost to replace unless you can find a used one. Aftermarket stereos and video systems can bring your more features for less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the way the other devices died at about the same time--it almost sounds like planned obsolescence!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T15:24:05.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4474" CreationDate="2012-07-28T15:36:41.350" Score="8" ViewCount="2244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asked a local mechanic for the charge of repairing a puncture and he says he'd charge a certain amount for simply taking a piece of rubber tube and sticking it over the puncture, or if I would pay him a little bit extra, he'd use a pressing machine to apply a bit of heat to the patch of rubber tube and press it onto the punctured area so that it would be more long lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that how punctures are best repaired? With application of heat and pressure? Is it really longer lasting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; This is not a tubeless tyre. He said he'd apply the patch on the tube of the tyre. Similar to how a bicycle tyre tube puncture is repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastEditorUserId="1539" LastEditDate="2022-04-18T02:09:39.277" LastActivityDate="2022-04-18T02:09:39.277" Title="Repairing a motorcycle tire puncture. With heat or without heat?" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|repair|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-28T18:50:36.573" Score="-1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced both rear struts, alignment, central arm bushing, p/s flush, oil filter change, inspection, headlight, wipers- bill came to $1,312, was that too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2048" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T19:46:21.703" Title="Hyundai Tuscon 2005 repair bill" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-07-30T21:19:38.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-28T19:43:50.093" Score="4" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a part for a 2001 SAAB 93 2.2 TiD but I'm not 100% sure what the name of the part is.&#xA;Essentially it's a sleeve that goes in to the differential which the part in the attached image goes in to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnOV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been searching around and from what I gather, the term SAAB uses to describe it is &quot;countershaft insert into diff bearing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help locating one of these parts would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2049" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T16:21:47.700" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T16:21:47.700" Title="SAAB 93 2001 TiD countershaft sleeve" Tags="|part-identification|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4020" CreationDate="2012-07-28T19:46:21.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds a little high, but most shops go by the book. That is, they have a list of how long each repair for every car takes in hours (on average), and then they multiply that by how much they charge for labor an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually ask the shop to explain or show you where they get their book hours, and break down the invoice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T19:46:21.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-29T03:24:47.440" Score="5" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed that when coasting or breaking is followed by acceleration (seems to be only when the car is moving between 25 and 40 mph) that there is a slight jerk.  After recreating the problem a few times I noticed that the rpms jump up to just a little over 2000 then after the jerk it drops back to 1000-1500 which is usually normal. While it hasn't happened every time these conditions are replicated, it has been fairly constant.  Hoping that it would be an easy fix, I just had the transmission fluid flushed.  The car is at a little over 100k miles.  Transmission is automatic. Any thoughts on what the trouble might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observations that I haven't been able to confirm yet: It seems like the problem occurs less going uphill (haven't tried recreating the problem going down hill); It also seems like the longer periods of driving (15+ minutes) result in less occurrences though I'm not certain of this either yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:  I have noticed that when I take my foot off the gas between 25-35 miles per hour the RPMs drop down to just over 500.  At any other speed it remains over 1000. If I begin accelerating before the RPMs drop below 1000 at the speeds where I'm having this issue it doesn't seem to jerk but if I let it drop below 1000 it does.  Does this change the circumstances at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T04:05:44.953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T15:54:04.933" Title="2004 Chevy Malibu jerks when deceleration is followed by acceleration between 25-40 mph" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|epsilon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4037" CreationDate="2012-07-29T15:42:52.290" Score="12" ViewCount="156995" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initially&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changed a wheel/tire, and snapped a hub stud.  Had to take off the brake caliper on that hub (driver's side).  No problem with that, but then all of a sudden my front end was really jumpy.  It was time to change the pads and rotors for my front disk brakes.  Also, when I put all my weight and force on the brakes it definitely went to the floor with the pedal.  I don't recall this ever happening, though I can't say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Change&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then I changed both rotors and all pads for my front disk brakes.  I noticed that my driver side pads had very little pad left (I changed these about 9 months - 12 months ago) and my passenger side had plenty of pad left.  I would say drive side had about 1mm of pad left, and passenger side had 3.5 to 4mm of pad left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed something odd.  When I was trying to compress the caliper piston on the driver's side caliper, it was extremely difficult.  I eventually got it, but it wasn't nearly as easy as the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After the Brake Change&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I immediately drove the car afterwards, the front end shake was gone.  But I noticed something odd.  My driver side wheel has this awful smell, and when I got done driving it (I was hard on the brakes to test out and make sure it was stopping well, and it was) it was lightly smoking at that wheel.  I thought it might have been the brake cleaner just burning off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then a day later, the smoking and smell continued, but stopped later in the day with about 45 miles down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have been causing this?  Does it sound like my driver's side caliper is just getting stuck, causing it to ride the pads and wear them down?  Is that why it was smoking/smelling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was the driver's side caliper piston so hard to compress with a C-Clamp?  Could the caliper be going bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could air in the line cause the caliper to get stuck and/or go to the floor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this possibly be a master cylinder issue?  But I would think if it was a problem at the master cylinder, it would cause an issue for both front brakes.  Am I correct in saying that the master cylinder has a connection for the front that shares the same fluid/pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas are much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 1994 Mercury Villager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1602" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T05:06:59.423" Title="Brakes Smell Bad and Smoke" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4670" CreationDate="2012-07-29T16:48:07.667" Score="10" ViewCount="11203" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_T1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercedes-Benz T1&lt;/a&gt; model 308D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is an old &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM601_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercedes-Benz OM601&lt;/a&gt;.940 4-cylinder indirect injection 58 kW (79 hp) 2299 dm3 diesel engine from year 1992. It's not a turbodiesel! - it's a classic plain naturally-aspirated diesel engine (neither turbocharged nor supercharged). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It never had a problem starting before, always started in seconds, and one day suddenly it won't start. This was April, and the previous time the vehicle was driven was December. So I try to start it in April, with the battery freshly charged, and it won't start, the starter is turning the engine like crazy, the engine makes sounds like it'd almost start, and then it doesn't. After many times trying to start, turning the engine with the starter for probably something like 5 minutes in total or more (this only works if the battery is fully freshly charged), it finally started, and once started it run fine without any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few days I wanted to do another trip and tried to start it - same problem. This time I asked someone to pull me with a rope, we drove with me being pulled on a rope a few circles and it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I didn't use the car till July and wanted to start it a few times without success, again on one very hot day I finally succeeded after running the engine with the starter for several minutes. Then I made a test: I drove around for 1 hour so the engine became warm, then turned off the engine, and then I could start instantly without any issues. I then even turned it off again and left the engine off for half an hour - and even the it started instantly (the engine was still a bit warm). But if I left it off overnight and let it cool down completely - it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought its the glow plus, so I changed one, but then I thought of measuring resistance and all the remaining three had about half an ohm, so they're good as new, so didn't bother to change the rest. Also measured resistance of the lines from the glow plug relay and voltage getting there, and its all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then I thought its the starter, so I bought a new one, replaced it... and its all the same, still won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tests should I do to diagnose this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="185" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T22:10:05.603" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T21:42:55.653" Title="What could be some reasons my old diesel Mercedes won't start?" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|diesel|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-29T20:49:14.893" Score="3" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue with my s-10. It runs hot but is not overheating. It started when I replaced the temperature sending unit and thermostat. I put in an additional thermostat to make sure the first was not defective. I replaced the radiator a year and a half ago with a brand new one. Flushing the coolant has not fixed the problem either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truck has had performance issues. In the mid range power, the truck stutters and seems to miss. I think that this issue is related to my cooling issue because the power stutter is more pronounced when the engine is warmed. I ran a compression check to see if my power loss is due to a lack of compression in one cylinder but all 4 cylinders have the same compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan clutch seems to be fine too. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2053" LastEditorUserId="2053" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T15:40:27.283" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T10:26:12.023" Title="1995 Chevy s-10 4 cylinder running hot but not overheating" Tags="|coolant|chevrolet|radiator|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-07-29T22:10:28.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four months went by between when you last ran the vehicle (December) and when you tried to start it (April). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like gasoline, diesel fuel can also &quot;gel&quot; and clog up your fuel filters. As a first, low-cost troubleshooting step, change both of your fuel filters. You can use some starting fluid to try and start the vehicle after changing the filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, you may need to clean the fuel tank out by draining it and replacing it with fresh fuel. If it's low enough, you may be able to just add some fresh fuel to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still aren't able to start the vehicle, it's possible you've clogged the injectors. These may need to be replaced or cleaned. (I've heard this is more expensive; hence, this is further down the list of troubleshooting steps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, be mindful of your starter and that you don't burn it out by cranking on it too hard. In my experience, starters for these cars aren't cheap, so good prevention is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jmsonline.net/gold-eagle-stabil-diesel-stabilizer-32-oz-22254.htm?gclid=CLmCxPPyv7ECFcUZQgodKUoAEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sta-bil Diesel Stabilizer&lt;/a&gt;, which helps prevent sludge and other buildup that will make it hard to start your diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2012-07-29T22:10:28.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4024" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:58:03.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think that air would cause this behavior. I had the same issue with my 1999 Toyota Tercel (a lot of smoke from the wheel well), and the caliper was seized, I changed calipers, pads and rotors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T13:58:03.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-30T19:36:14.043" Score="4" ViewCount="4503" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 8 months ago my engine light came on, and after pulling the code it was a misfire in cylinder 4. My vehicle is a 2004 Mazda MPV, and only has 60K miles on it. Everyone I talked to was skeptical that with so low of miles the spark plugs would be bad, so I just went ahead and replaced the ignition coil. Even though it looked OK, I replaced the spark plug in that cylinder anyway. To recap, I replaced the ignition coil, and plug in cylinder 4. Everything was great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward to yesterday, and the engine light came on again. I expected it would be another misfire, and I would need to replace the ignition coil in another cylinder. To my surprise the problem is in cylinder 4 again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, unless I happened to get a bad part, I assume the ignition coil is good. I pulled the plug that only has 5K miles on it, and it looks OK except the tip is slightly white. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNlZ7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know if the tip is black/wet/oily it is sign of something else, but what about white? Usually brown means everything is OK, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;question 1&lt;/strong&gt; Is this small amount of white normal with a plug with only a few thousand miles on it, or is an injector bad or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;question 2&lt;/strong&gt; Assuming my coil, and plug are good, what are some other things I can look at that will be causing this misfire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2056" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T17:23:36.010" Title="Misfire in cylinder 4" Tags="|engine|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4033" CreationDate="2012-07-30T20:49:13.450" Score="11" ViewCount="42589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bar-end mirrors on my Buell 1125CR. They're fairly heavy anodized aluminum pieces that pivot on a ball &amp;amp; socket joint for adjusting the angle of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them fits snugly on the joint, so I can adjust it and it stays in place as I'm riding. The other is looser, so it won't stay in place - if I goose the throttle, it vibrates out of position and just dangles until I readjust it. Obviously that's not the safest thing to do while I'm riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way I can tighten up the ball &amp;amp; socket joint? I'm thinking of some sort of viscous grease that I can inject in there to reduce the amount of play. I considered threadlock or even silicone sealant, but I want to retain the adjustability of the mirror if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great solutions, everyone! I really appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I tried a quick fix with Loctite Blue since I had some lying around. I squeezed out a couple of drops onto the back of the ball so it would drip into the socket, and left it to cure overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked reasonably well - the mirror no longer droops under brisk acceleration, although &quot;flooring&quot; it still creates enough vibration to shake it out of place, albeit not nearly as much as before. I feared that the Loctite would really sieze up the joint, but it hasn't - it still remains pliable enough to allow me to adjust the mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that Loctite Green might have done a better job of wicking into the tight void between the ball &amp;amp; socket, so I might try that next, although the set screw idea also sounds viable and should be a permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably no &quot;correct&quot; solution to this problem, so I've accepted the answer with the most votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="2057" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T18:40:05.523" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T18:19:42.690" Title="How to stiffen up a loose ball &amp; socket joint for a motorcycle mirror?" Tags="|motorcycle|lubrication|grease|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4032" CreationDate="2012-07-31T03:52:02.190" Score="6" ViewCount="5775" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my last trip to the shop, the mechanics told me that I should replace my shock absorbers.  When I inquired as to why, I don't feel that they were very clear with their answer, like they normally are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what are the symptoms that I need to be on the look out for to know when to replace my shock absorbers? Are there any tests that I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI - My car just recently passed 74K miles if that helps anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T21:20:29.150" Title="How do I know when to replace shock absorbers?" Tags="|mazda|replace|shock-absorber|testing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2012-07-31T06:20:32.600" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple test that you can perform in your own driveway is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each corner of the car, push down hard several times (the car should be bouncing visibly up and down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When pushed down, release and watch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car should bounce upwards (above the normal resting point) and then &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; settle at the resting point. Additional bouncing indicates worn or faulty shock absorbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T06:20:32.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2012-07-31T10:09:07.053" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how long any sort of grease would last before it worked its way out? I'd be tempted to go for a more mechanical solution (if you have access to appropriate tools, or a frielndly machine shop) - drill a small hole in the socket and tap it to a suitable thread, then insert a grub screw to bear onto the side of the ball and stop it moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, you still have full adjustability (though you might need to loosen off the screw to adjust it), and you can tighten it up if the joint gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T10:09:07.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4031" CreationDate="2012-07-31T12:00:46.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the mechanic is citing the maintenance schedule rather than a particular symptom.  74K miles is a good long way for a set of shocks and, while it's great that you aren't currently worried about their state, the vehicle will begin to suffer as they eventually fail.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2308/how-to-diagnose-creaking-scraping-sound-when-entering-parking-lots/2309#2309&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; that describes some of the rebounding that will occur after bumps.  Before I replaced the struts in my wife's car, it was very annoying to drive around on and off-ramps: you would turn the wheel, hold a steady speed but the car's suspension would keep bouncing and never really settle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2309/57&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to that question, I listed a few things that you can easily check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient damping (the bouncing continues and the suspension feels mushy). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noisy motion (scraping sound when going over a larger bounce at slow speeds). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking oil. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T12:00:46.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4029" CreationDate="2012-07-31T12:01:02.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Misfires can also be caused by fuel delivery problems.  Such as a fuel injector with debris in it, or one that's sticking.  Not all configurations of fuel injection will result in a misfire in just one cylinder though.  Depends if your injectors are cylinder specific or batch fire into a common manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T12:01:02.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4040" CreationDate="2012-07-31T16:01:16.917" Score="2" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Volvo 940 wagon, 1994 made for the US. &#xA;Last night the driver's window stopping rolling up when I hit the switch, but it does roll down. I pulled out the switch box, and tried connecting the driver's window wires to the other windows' switches on the drivers controls (it has a switch for each door on the drivers side), but it still won't go up (I didn't bother to test if it still went down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting thing, maybe a red herring, is if I connect the passenger windows wires to the drivers side switch it won't roll up either. This happens using that switch and the switch on the passenger door. If I connect the passenger wires to a rear window switch there is no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping I could purchase a new switch, but the fact that switching the driver's wires to a different switch doesn't work makes me wonder if a new switch will work. Though the fact the switch doesn't work with the passenger door either gives me a little hope. Perhaps the switch for the driver's window is unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on a cause and fix? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I haven't been able to disassemble the housing for the switches, but have only removed the plastic that holds the wires in place. If I need to remove the switch, which I assume will be necessary, pointers on doing this will help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T14:23:42.017" Title="Volvo 940 Drivers power window won't go up" Tags="|volvo|power-windows|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4024" CreationDate="2012-07-31T16:03:05.793" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the caliper is sticking. If the piston is sticking then you would end up with one side worn down more then the other. Also, a piston should compress with a clamp, if it is that hard then that also points to it sticking. The smoking then could be from the pads being in constant contact with the rotor (if it is in that strong of contact). You probably would also notice the vehicle pulling to the side of the sticking caliper. Air in the line would not cause nor would a bad master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T19:46:02.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T19:46:02.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="769" CreationDate="2012-08-01T03:54:43.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of vibrations that come and go at various speeds are wheel and/or driveshaft balance issues. They come and go due to exciting the suspension/steering when reaching resonant frequencies. Yours may be a wheel issue that shops would rather balance as well as they can than tell if you should replace a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more expensive ways to get your tires balanced, if it merits it. Some shops can provide road force balancing that takes into consideration the tires deflection when in contact with road surface for balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, first I would take the car back to the last tire shop and ask them to re-balance it more precisely. &quot;Lifetime&quot; balance deals are popular for major repair chains. Perhaps asking for &quot;sticky&quot; weights that go on the inside middle of the wheel as something different to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T20:35:00.693" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T20:35:00.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3643" CreationDate="2012-08-01T13:03:52.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the CO didn't know about the low coolant level was low worries me. It could be leaking coolant when warm (when the pressure is high enough to squeeze through a pinhole, or whatever), or the engine is burning a small amount of coolant. This could be a head gasket or intake gasket(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be sure of is that you are reading the correct level. Sorry if I'm patronizing you, but there should be two marks on the overflow/reservoir: One for the cold level and the other for the warmed up coolant level. Obviously, you check the former when the engine is cold, the latter when warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine bay is dirty, oil leaks, low/dirty brake fluid, etc. I would probably pass on it unless I felt like doing a lot of maintenance in the future. 50k miles is pennies for a 2005 Nissan, and it should be in better shape. If the owner didn't check the coolant, what else could have gone bad?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive squeaks are generally very minor problems that just indicate a loose and/or worn belt. You should be able to shine a flashlight down there and see if the belt looks excessively worn/dry. If it is, it will have dry cracks all through it and should be replaced. In the meantime you could up the tension to make the noise go away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Given that the coolant has mysteriously disappeared, and this somewhat commonly occurring problem with head gaskets, I'd move on. This is a late answer, so if you bought it already it's not the end of the world, but there are other fish in the sea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T14:57:58.313" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T14:57:58.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4036" CreationDate="2012-08-01T16:38:23.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very likely the switch:  I've had to disassemble and clean the contacts (using a small wire brush and spray contact-cleaner) the window switch on 4 of my Volvos that are of similar age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's just my experience, but it's definitely where I'd start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T16:38:23.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2012-08-01T16:41:30.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low-tech fix:  If you can find a way to grip it, you may be able to use a hammer and drift punch or very small chisel in order to pound/indent the lip of the socket (hole) inward toward the hole which has the effect of squeezing the socket tighter around the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably hard to do, but worth a mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T16:41:30.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2012-08-01T17:08:29.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You state the mirrors are anodized aluminum, but if the ball or socket are steel, you might try (gasp) intentionally rusting one of the surfaces. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Produce-a-Rich-Rust-Patina-on-Iron-and-Steel-Safe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one technique&lt;/a&gt; for accomplishing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T17:08:29.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-01T23:40:46.123" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0050I6KII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KnuKoncepts 4AWG kit&lt;/a&gt; and it came with the wires etc. and then a baggie with a bunch of gold tips (circle things)... I was wondering how you attach the wires to these things? Should I solder them? Should I crimp them? If I don't buy a crimping tool, is there a suitable replacement (vice grips/hammmer,ect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="640" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T12:07:32.480" Title="Wire attachments for KnuKonceptz Wiring Kit" Tags="|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4057" CreationDate="2012-08-02T09:24:18.610" Score="4" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short story:&lt;/strong&gt; I parked below a tree. When I backed out of the parking spot the aerial got stuck in a branch an the &lt;em&gt;aerial mounting&lt;/em&gt; snapped (aerial was forced forward, mounting bracket gave in). The aerial itself screws into the mounting bracket and was not damaged. Only the bracket (or joint &amp;mdash; I'm not really sure what this is called).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aerial mounting is located in the front of the roof directly above the cabin lights (inside). My suspicion is that I can remove the cabin lights from the roof in order to gain access to the aerial mounting bracket where it is attached to the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R98C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aerial position&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the case (suggested &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_Replace_roof_aerial_on_Peugeot_106&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, will I be able to attach wiring in this location?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or will I need to remove the stereo etc. in order to replace the aerial mounting and the entire wire between stereo and mounting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the &quot;real&quot; part name (I guess it's not aerial mounting bracket or joint)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with experience in this regard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The part name is &quot;&lt;em&gt;Roof Aerial Base Mount&lt;/em&gt;&quot; (#656110). I ordered mine off of eBay for appr. $12 incl. P&amp;amp;P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T06:29:22.593" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T06:29:22.593" Title="Aerial mounting broken on '95 Peugeot 106" Tags="|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2012-08-02T12:07:32.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the design of the ends.  Normally power connectors are just crimped, whereas data connectors are often crimped and soldered.  While vice grips/hammer can crimp in an emergency, it's not going to do a proper crimp.  You really want the right tools doing this, especially in large gage wire (which can obviously carry a lot of current).  I'd recommend picking up the Haynes Electrical Manual as a reference.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1850106541&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Electrical-Manual-Haynes-Techbook/dp/1850106541&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T12:07:32.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4036" CreationDate="2012-08-02T14:23:42.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before investing in new switches, you might consider testing the wiring as well. Run your own, known-good wires from the switches to the window motor (this will require removing the interior trim from the door), and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you have the door apart, you could also try lubricating the window mechanism. It might just be sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T14:23:42.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-02T16:39:37.230" Score="3" ViewCount="2163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1988 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Manual 5-speed with the 22RE Engine.&#xA;Starting a few weeks ago, while at speed, the truck would randomly make this loud rubbing/grinding noise coming from the rear. I've captured it on video, and was hoping somebody could pinpoint the type of sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've determined so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Happens randomly while at speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Happens at various speeds, but mainly starts above 40 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the noise happens, slowing down to a few MPH will stop it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise seems to be irrelevant from transmission. happens in gear, or while coasting in neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerking truck to the left will pause noise for a second. Jerking right seems to have no effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do feel a surge/friction when it happens, along with vibration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In asking the people around me, I've heard mostly rear bearings, or drive shaft u-joints. I was hoping somebody could listen to this noise and narrow it down for me. The way the noise kicks in with a yelp, then settles down is strange to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's video of the noise. Thanks for taking a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww7yR3oKcd0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww7yR3oKcd0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2063" LastEditorUserId="2063" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T16:54:41.080" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T09:06:57.500" Title="Need help identifying grinding noise from the rear of 88 Toyota Pickup" Tags="|toyota|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4053" CreationDate="2012-08-02T20:16:51.963" Score="14" ViewCount="101240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by a couple people that it's really bad for a car to be shifted from Reverse to Drive while the car is still moving backwards.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On automatic cars, this could be true - most cars I've tried this on (not often, mind you, since I don't want to destroy cars that aren't mine) jerk strongly when switched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On manual cars, however, I've noticed the opposite; rather than a strong jerk, there feels like what I'd call a 'winding'-like sensation - the car slows down and then moves forward smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, again, is this a bad thing to do?  On all cars or just some?  If just some, is it a make-and-model kind of thing, or an automatic/manual thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:20:08.913" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T02:47:21.033" Title="Switching from Reverse to Drive - always stop completely?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2012-08-02T20:58:40.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect axle bearings more than U joints. Drive shaft noises usually don't change when moving left or right. You can check the axle seals for leaks. If the bearing is bad many times it moves enough to wear the seal. You can also check the axle housing for a temperature difference after a highway speed ride. It doesnot have to be an actual measurement just a difference you can feel with your hand. If it is really bad you may feel the play with the wheel jacked up off the ground. Just remember not be under the vehicle without jackstands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T20:58:40.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4048" CreationDate="2012-08-02T21:28:15.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always thought changes of direction while moving was a bad idea. It doesn't matter if it is an automatic or standard shift, small car or large truck. Doing this puts tremendous stresses on the drive train. All mechanical parts are built with clearances between moving parts. When you ask them to change direction while moving the parts act as hammers as they are accelerating prior to contact. If you pushed a stationary drinking glass with a hammer it would not break. If the glass was rolling and you wanted to change its direction with a hammer I think the out come would be obvious. It may seem like a less abrupt change with a manual shift because the clutch is slipping and absorbing the energy. So instead of shocking the U joints you are wearing out the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="19559" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T05:46:45.967" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T05:46:45.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:01:20.887" Score="3" ViewCount="1491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a bike (1985 Yamaha AG200) and was dedicated to get the thing running so I can learn a bit more about how motors work. Its been sitting in a shed for about 20 years and the rats have got into it a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be important things to check if I was to get it going again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2058" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T05:31:57.773" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T05:31:57.773" Title="Restoring a 1985 Yamaha AG200" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4051" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:13:24.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the spark plug. Squirt some oil into the cylinder,you can use regular motor oil but Liquid Wrench or equivilent would be better. Let it soak overnight.With the bike in neutral see if the motor will spin over using the kickstarter. If it won't turnover the motor is seized. At this point it is not worth repairing but could be a valuble learning tool. You can take it apart just to see how it works. If it turns over reinstall the plug and start checking the fuel lines,they are probably cracked so replace them first. Change the oil,add just enough fuel to see if it will start and crank away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T01:13:24.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4048" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:31:09.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of newer cars are smart about shifting (they have electronic solenoids to control the hydraulics). I can put my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder in reverse at 50 MPH, and it's smart enough to not engage, it goes into neutral. However, at speeds below its cutoff point (I've done it at about 15 MPH and regretted it), you can put a lot of stress on the drivetrain if you shift into drive from reverse (or vice-versa). Even more so if you shift and apply the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you are moving slowly, like 5 MPH or less? No, no harm--at least in the automatics I have experience with. The transmission will shift through neutral first, relieving any preload. Then when it shifts to drive or reverse, the torque converter will take the mismatched speeds (RPM), that's what it's designed to do. The problems arise when the torque converter engages strongly due to a high RPM difference, and this can shock the drivetrain and break stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In manuals it all depends on how long you slip the clutch. I could make a change from reverse to 1st at 20 MPH be smooth. At least, as long as the clutch and synchronizers last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T01:38:18.200" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T01:38:18.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3599" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:50:51.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for certain if it's bad. However, I would not let the transmission run dry while the pump is moving. If it's anything like the oil pump on a car engine, it will use it for lubrication of the valve bodies and hydraulic parts. It may get air in bad places as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they do make automatic transmission transfusion machines that do almost exactly what you are describing. You hook two lines up and it replaces it with new fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the service manuals specify to drop the pan to drain the ones without a drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the filter while you are in there. You can loosen one side and then remove all the bolts from the other to try and contain the mess that will ensue to one side. Then remove the rest of the bolts and attempt to drain the rest out. Watch out when you remove the filter, more fluid tends to go everywhere. If you want to do a complete fluid replacement, you'll need to take off and drain the torque converter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typing this reminds me of how much I preferred manual transmissions when I worked at a shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T01:50:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:58:59.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering fluid is usually a slight variant of automatic transmission fluid. Some manuals even call for using ATF in the power steering system. Red, pink, and clear are the usual colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black, dark brown are signs of contaminants. The fluid in any car is going to get old and contaminated and it isn't necessarily a bad thing unless it just never gets changed. And like Brian said, if it smells that's a really bad sign that it's been like that for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T01:58:59.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2012-08-03T02:51:22.893" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoting the factory service manual for a 2005 Jeep Wrangler (Page 0-6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;POWER STEERING FLUID&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended fluid for power steering system is Mopar ATF+4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mopar ATF+4, when new is red in color.  The ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze.  The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition.  As the vehicle is driven, the ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown.  &lt;strong&gt;THIS IS NORMAL.&lt;/strong&gt;  ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age.  Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(the bold formatting is in the manual, not my addition)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I agree with the other answers that say it will vary between vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2059" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T02:51:22.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4044" CreationDate="2012-08-03T10:00:33.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly (and if it is the same as other Peugeots of that era), there is a bolt as part of the mount that passes through a hole in the roof and is secured with a nut on the inside - this can be accessed, as you suggest, by removing the interior light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISTR the wire then ran down the right-hand windscreen pillar, but there was a connector up behind the headlining above the windscreen, so the aerial could be removed without having to un-thread the entire wiring - This was on a 205, so they may have changed it later...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T10:00:33.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4048" CreationDate="2012-08-03T12:05:43.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the automatics I've been in where people do that, it's a rather dramatic bang/clunk if shifted from Reverse to Drive while still rolling backwards.  I &lt;em&gt;hate&lt;/em&gt; riding with people that do that, makes me cringe everytime.  I hear newer cars are smarter about it, but it still sounds like a bad idea.  I hate to risk my transmission on a sensor that might fail when it's so easy to just not do that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On (typical) manuals, it doesn't cause any large loads, but you have to slip the clutch more to get moving again (as well as the synchros having to do a bit more work).  So, it does cause slightly more wear.  Beware if you have a race transmission with straight cut gears and no synchros though, that would be bad news going reverse to drive while rolling backwards.  Most manuals do not have synchros on reverse, so rolling forward and shifting into reverse is a no-no on they typical manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T12:05:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3850" CreationDate="2012-08-03T15:05:05.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The absolute most stress on an engine occurs at high RPMs. The forces acting upon the rotating assembly are exponentially increased with RPM. That also increases the magnification of any oiling inconsistencies (as small as they may be nowadays), which can be deadly to engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing power (cylinder pressure) has a much smaller impact on engine stress, relative to RPM induced stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower the RPMs you can stay under (within reason*), the less stress your engine will endure. This is also why lightweight and balanced rotating assemblies contribute to much longer engine life at higher RPMs (eg. motorcyle engines, F1 engines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/videos/a30431/lugging-bad-for-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lug&lt;/a&gt; your engine, either!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2017-07-25T16:10:53.693" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T16:10:53.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4061" CreationDate="2012-08-03T15:21:18.653" Score="8" ViewCount="2713" Body="&lt;p&gt;When putting wheels back on a car, you place them on and torque them to spec. Now, most if not all manufacturers say to re-torque them after 50 miles. What is the procedure for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you just make sure they are all torqued? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen one bolt at a time and re-torque it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen and re-torque more than one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or what?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing number one for a while, but I don't recall ever seeing an &quot;official&quot; way to do this in service manuals. I would assume this just means check them. But then the word re-torque implies some kind of loosening and re-tightening, no? Or am I thinking about it too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T21:38:57.627" Title="Wheel re-torqueing, how is it done?" Tags="|maintenance|wheels|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4060" CreationDate="2012-08-03T16:20:12.193" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world where time plays no issue you would torque all the lug nuts to 1/3 of the reccomended torque in a crisscross pattern. Reset the torque wrench to 2/3 of the torque spec and tighten again in a crisscross pattern. Finally set the wrench to 100% of the torque spec and do the final tightening. After 50 miles recheck the lugs with the wrench set at full reccomended torque. This is to insure that nothing came loose. From that point you should be fine until the next time a wheel is removed. Now if you you are on the side of the road fixing a flat, use the same technique. Tighten each nut with a lug wrench getting progressively tighter each time. At the first available chance check them with a torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T16:20:12.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="118" CreationDate="2012-08-03T17:31:24.500" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the bolts that strut braces attach to are the ones that attach the strut assembly to the car. The spring is held in place in the strut assembly by the nut in the middle, which I have never needed to remove to install any strut braces. See how the brace below has a hole in the middle for the top shock nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQlwU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Strut brace install&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shock nut holds the upper spring perch to the shock, where the shocks have stops in them to prevent them from overextending. This holds the spring inside the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QoC6u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Strut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the assembly could fall out if the wheels are not supported. Removing the strut to tower bolts is not an issue if the car is on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T20:31:04.587" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T20:31:04.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-03T18:16:07.280" Score="1" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other cars that have the same type of key lock for a 1990 Pontiac Grand Prix LE? (2-door)  I'm having a hard time finding a used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little door/flap on the key mechanizm is broken or has come loose and I can't lock/unlock it anymore. (I have to open the passengers side, hit the unlock switch &amp;amp; then get in on the drives side again.)  I would like to replace it with another lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, how do I replace this part?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&#xA;Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:30:22.897" Title="How to Replace the Drivers Key Lock" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4067" CreationDate="2012-08-04T00:37:06.530" Score="1" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I am not sure if this is a bumper or bumper cover. Second, is it possible to fix this myself or do I need to go to a body shop? Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Make/Model: Honda Accord Coupe 2000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPvuV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjKDs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="754" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T12:00:03.877" Title="How can I fix my bumper dent?" Tags="|honda|accord|dent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2012-08-04T01:00:00.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;remove the door panel and reach inside to release the retaining clip for the linkage then the clip that retains the lock. install the new cylinder and clip attach the linkage.The part is available at an auto parts store for under $50. As a side not this kit from Auto Parts warehouse includes two locks for the doors but your ignition will still use your old key [http://www.autopartswarehouse REPO507201&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T01:00:00.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4100" CreationDate="2012-08-04T02:06:02.757" Score="4" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Kia Forte sedan with &quot;eco&quot; package.  I'd like to mount my mobile amateur radio into the vehicle, however I'm having a hard time locating a grommet for passing power leads from the cabin into the engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone have a maintenance manual or other source that might be able to point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T11:56:04.610" Title="How can I route power cables from my 2012 Kia Forte eco from the battery to the cabin?" Tags="|electrical|kia|wiring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4064" CreationDate="2012-08-04T12:00:03.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a bumper cover. What you can't tell from the pictures is if the metal bumper or other hardware behind it is damaged also. If you get under the car you might be able to see the extent of the damage. Dpending on your skill level you can do this at home. Be aware that you will have to do some research to disable the airbag just to be safe. The parts should be available at a salvage yard,possibly in the correct color. The best option if you can be without the car is to remove the cover,assess the damage, then gather all the parts. If you just get a cover you may find you need other parts once the old one is removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T12:00:03.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-04T23:25:00.237" Score="4" ViewCount="29677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for some ideas to keep floor mats from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, my 91 MR2 has no plastic hook on the car floor to hook into the floor mats and hold them in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor mats I have only have the plastic teeth on the bottom, but it's not very effective and the mats constantly move around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2070" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T19:49:40.873" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T06:54:03.883" Title="Keeping floor mats from moving - no hook on car floor" Tags="|toyota|interior|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3937" CreationDate="2012-08-05T01:26:37.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the shift forks are bent or broken.  These are not so hard to replace.  Take a peek inside the tranny to see what is going on, move the lever around and see what is binding.  The gears themselves may be perfectly fine (even if the synchros are smooshed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2071" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T01:26:37.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2012-08-05T01:37:19.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find some pin-on drapery hooks at a hardware store. I couldn't find an online image. If you can picture a lower case letter Y. The lower part is a pointed pin that can be inserted in the carpet. This will leave aU shaped piece to catch the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T01:37:19.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3748" CreationDate="2012-08-05T01:37:55.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One brand of body filler I used claimed to emit a neurotoxin.  Read the can carefully for safety information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2071" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T01:37:55.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2012-08-05T13:20:55.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or, depending wildly on your mat and seats, attached it to your seat's frame or base. Some OEMs do this, albeit in the typical nice OE way that's hard to duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T13:20:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1370" CreationDate="2012-08-05T13:25:32.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the charge piping from the turbo to the throttle body. The turbo will still spin, but the engine will never see positive boost pressure. You will need to connect any and all sensors that were attached up and downstream of the turbo charger to the intake tract ahead of the throttle body. Like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air flow meter/Mass flow meter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake temperature sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum signals for PCV system etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method was mentioned already. Disconnect the wastegate from the wastegate actuator. This should reduce performance enough and I doubt any codes would be thrown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a much simpler way is to not lend your car out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T14:00:47.907" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T14:00:47.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3679" CreationDate="2012-08-05T14:32:46.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never understood Ford, or many other domestic (at least, to me here in the US) car makers' reasoning behind their climate control systems. Later models are starting to have more digital and better controls, but the model year you have is a prime example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For domestics, Max A/C is recirculate and the A/C 'switch' is usually combined in the vent selector, as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGo4r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want conditioned air on your feet, no dice. I don't know why anyone would want that, but it's nice to leave the option available instead of nearly arbitrary restrictions in place by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, the Japanese vehicles that I deal with daily have a control system that makes sense to me. There's a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed knob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature knob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vent selector knob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A/C button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recirculate button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCliC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can have any combination you want. As far as I know the only exception is the A/C system pressure/temperature switch that cycles the compressor clutch on and off when in use. But it still allows you to use the A/C in whatever vent and temperature combination you want. This allows the compressor to run in the winter (like, below 50 degrees F). This is good because it allows the refrigerant oil to circulate and keep the seals in good working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with my rant now over, to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Three_%28automobile_manufacturers%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Three&lt;/a&gt; thing. I couldn't tell you why they make them like this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you are asking. But if the compressor is engaged, the A/C system starts working. They are the same thing. Your vents may or may not be routed around the evaporator in the dash, but the system is still working nearly as hard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is my biggest gripe. For example: If I see a dead skunk ahead and I want to minimize the amount of smell entering the cabin, on a domestic that means I have to select &quot;Max A/C&quot;, of course. It's really not obvious and the majority of people I ask have no idea if they are not even slightly interested in cars. However, it's mostly in the past now; I know Ford has jumped to a Japanese like system on at least some models.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well, there is no good reason. So it's not that big of a deal. But, like I said above in my huge rant, what if someone doesn't like the dash vents blowing dry air at me? What if someone wanted to have cool, dry air on their feet during a hot summer? They can't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the Big Three systems don't make a lot of sense. I'm biased though because I've grown up around Japanese cars. That and I'm a programmer and I like lots of features and switches (which end users don't like!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T14:32:46.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-05T15:24:52.693" Score="2" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 04 Corolla.  If I plug anything into either of the 2 power outlets it destroys a breaker.  I thought about replacing the power outlet, but since it happens to both outlets I think there's something else wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I troubleshoot and fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I found the wiring &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/40916345/Manual-Toyota-Corolla-2004-Wiring-Manual#outer_page_105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt; for the cigarette lighter.  I think the issue is at ground point IE (listed in diagram).  I'm also having issues with the clock display which goes in and out.  The clock appears to share the same junction point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJCoL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastEditorUserId="588" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T16:27:59.767" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:05:08.383" Title="2004 Toyota Corolla breaker breaks when I use a power outlet" Tags="|electrical|corolla|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-05T19:56:18.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please advise me how to reset the service light on my 1.6 Diesel Alfa Mito?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2072" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T23:54:54.133" Title="Reset Service Light 2009 1.6 Diesel Alfa Romeo Mito" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4076" CreationDate="2012-08-05T23:54:54.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several forums I've checked all say that a scan tool is required and that not all scan tools have this function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T23:54:54.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2012-08-06T02:53:52.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I can't say I know this with any certainty for this specific car, manufactures usually put this either below the steering column or behind the glove compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T02:53:52.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2012-08-06T10:06:13.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using the 'hook' side of a set of 'velcro' hook-and-loop fasteners - these can normally be bought in sticky-back form, stick the hook strip to the back of the mat and it should hook into the carpet and grip quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T10:06:13.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4075" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:05:08.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to see the grounding points by crawling under the dash.  The grounds looked visually good, the screws are tight.  So, I tried replacing the 12V power outlet with a new aftermarket outlet.  The issue is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strange that the one bad outlet actually caused both outlets to blow fuses when power was drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:05:08.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2012-08-06T14:04:33.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a fellow '91 MR2 owner, my advice is to junk your current floormats and order some WeatherTech mats.  They fit nice and tight on my MR2, no more problems with the mats walking around.  On the driver's side they wedge up against the dead pedal, and that keeps them solidly in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T14:04:33.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-06T15:59:32.580" Score="2" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Mercedes 308d. It always used to be fairly quiet, but recently the engine has started to sound quite noisy. Its OK when started then after it gets warm you notice when you come to a standstill that its quite noisy. It like a slight tapping chuggy sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had it checked by a Mercedes specialist who could find nothing external. I've had the injectors checked but just a small blockage which was unblocked but has made no difference. I have put injector cleaner in the diesel, new fuel and oil filter and oil change ( all of which I usually keep on top of anyway )...but no difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm out of ideas and the mechanic at the Mercedes specialist said he would have to take the rocker cover off and see if theres anything in the engine thats worn or broken, though when its not making the noise, the engine sounds sweet and it runs OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T15:32:29.230" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:24:00.390" Title="Engine has become noisy" Tags="|engine|diesel|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4085" CreationDate="2012-08-06T16:03:48.707" Score="6" ViewCount="84225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twice now my car engine has stopped cranking mid start.  It doesn't seem to be a power problem as the radio, wipers ... all seem to work.  The ignition key simply doesn't do anything anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In once case waiting a few seconds resolved the problem and it started right up.  In another case I had to roll it down a hill and pop the clutch to get it going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time my car just works as expected, it is just these two incidents.  I don't want to get stranded somewhere though so I'd prefer to fix it before it happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking it isn't power since the car likely wouldn't have started that first time if the battery was dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases the car did start, it seemed to be limited to the engine cranking, not its ability to actually run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the solenoid on the starter?  If not, what is the most likely culprit here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2073" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T22:37:36.450" Title="My car engine stops turning over when starting" Tags="|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2012-08-06T19:50:44.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If none of the other answers suit, you can very easily pull up the carpet and weld on a spike or a screw or other hook to use for your mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T19:50:44.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2012-08-06T19:52:53.320" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As starter motors get old they can require higher current in order to turn successfully, so despite you having no obvious power problem I would first check your battery - also because this is a simple thing to replace if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could indeed be the starter solenoid, so having a look at both this and the starter motor itself would probably be my next option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T19:52:53.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4093" CreationDate="2012-08-06T22:06:36.543" Score="11" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen performance exhaust pipes on sale for cars and motorcycles, and my questions are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it do? (better performance [and how so?]? better mileage? cooler sounds?) Is/how is it different for different engines? (car, motorcycle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it do it? I'm most curious about my 4-stroke carbureted 125cc scooter, but I expect it does basically the same thing across engine sizes (or does it?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why do I want it? If I want to race, if I want to save money, etc? This should follow from #1, but I'm still curious about what the classic get-a-performance-pipe-if scenarios are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:20:16.457" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:20:16.457" Title="Performance Exhaust -- what, how, why?" Tags="|engine-theory|exhaust|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4086" CreationDate="2012-08-06T23:34:07.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Performance exhaust pipes increase power by getting the exhaust gas out of the engine faster. It does this by eliminating the restiction by using larger pipes or less sound absorbing/reflecting material. An analogy is the aerator on the faucet it slows down the output or flow out of the pipe similar to a muffler. Gas mileage is improved by getting more of the burnt fuel out of the combustion chamber prior to the incoming fuel mixture entering the chamber. The resulting increase in power means the throttle has to be opened less to get the same acceleration. Less throttle=more MPG. This only works if self restraint is used when applying the throttle. My opinion has always been to add a performance enhancer only when the original part needs replacement. Unless you are racing or it will increase the reliability of the vehicle you will not likely see enough savings to offset the cost. If you replace a good system with a $700 performance system it will take a long time to recoup $700 worth of fuel. But if the stock system needed replacement at a cost of $350 you would only have to recoup $350 in fuel saving to pay for the performance system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T23:34:07.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4089" CreationDate="2012-08-07T04:18:57.740" Score="2" ViewCount="14982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this isn't off topic but I am really clueless about cars. I just got my license recently and have been struggling to connect my iPhone to my car. I own a 2011 Honda Civic. I bought this cable from Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ALY22Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-IU3-5RC-3-5mm-Retractable-Cable/dp/B000ALY22Q/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't see any place were I can connect it on the dashboard. Is this something that can be connected to the Civic out of the box or does additional equipment need to be installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can be connected right away where exactly do I plug it in, I see no hole for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2079" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T00:25:24.050" Title="How to connect an iphone to a Honda Civic?" Tags="|honda|civic|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2012-08-07T05:35:59.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you say which version/year your Civic is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent Civics got an AUX IN (audio Auxiliary in) port where you can plug it in. This is normally on driver's side, bottom of the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you'll have to buy an extension panel (I'm not sure this is the 'official name for it') which replaces your CD changer. What it does it, simply connects to the audio channel your CD changer uses to connect to the sound system in the vehicle and send signals coming from your phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the same issue with my Nissan Primera P12 2001. It has a CD changer (which can read mini-CDs and stuff), and a DVD changer but no audio in port. I'm planning to swap the CD changer to one of these panels so I can plug my phone in for internet radio .etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T15:48:05.593" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T15:48:05.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4095" CreationDate="2012-08-07T09:05:20.153" Score="3" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a '95 Mercury Mystique that I have been trying to fix the A/C or for awhile (as budget allows). I just had an overhaul from the shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had a new compressor installed - the old one had electrical problems (this was the core problem I believe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had a new accumulator installed - old one was in poor shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got a freon recharge - mechanics tested for leaks one day after recharge and found none&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was working really well for a couple days, however now the cool air comes and goes. My first guess is that the compressor is not kicking on, but I don't know the best way to test it. Ideas? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T02:30:50.243" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:04:35.403" Title="1995 Mercury Mystique - No more cool air from AC" Tags="|ac|cdw27|mystique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2012-08-07T09:24:27.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I use D3 in and around town, in built up areas (&amp;lt;50km/h or 30 mph) there is no need for D4. Use D4 on the open road (motorway/freeway) for speeds above 60km/h (&gt;40 mph). Also use D3 for towing and hill climbing/descending for better engine braking and avoiding constant shifting between D3 and top. Worked mint for me (still very economical) and I have owned 3 Accords :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2082" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T16:04:56.757" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T16:04:56.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-07T10:19:49.380" Score="3" ViewCount="4422" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vehicle:          2002 VW Golf (German)    &#xA;Engine:           1.4 liter, gasoline 75 hp   &#xA;Odometer:         60k miles / 100k km &#xA;Fuel consumption: 29-33 MPG / 7-8 liters/100km&#xA;Oil used:         5W30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had to add about 1 liter (1 quart) of oil to my Golf over the last ~1000 miles.  Based on my previous experience, this seems quite high.  What is the typical oil consumption of this type of vehicle (specs given above)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel consumption is also a bit higher than I expected for the small engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any oil on the pavement where the car is parked, and the coolant is clean.  There is no visible smoke in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On two separate occasions (separated by 4000 km and a few months), the car has begun running rough.  Both times the mechanic replaced an ignition coil (different ones) and the associated spark plug.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was worried that perhaps burning oil was fouling the spark plugs--is this is possibility, or is a succession of failing ignition coils a likely explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="149" LastEditorUserId="149" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T11:36:39.780" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:53:37.747" Title="Normal oil and fuel consumption for MkIV Golf 1.4l?" Tags="|vw|ignition|sparkplugs|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4086" CreationDate="2012-08-07T13:07:54.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does it do? (better performance [and how so?]? better mileage?&#xA;  cooler sounds?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends.  One of the goals of a performance exhaust is usually to create a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuned_exhaust&quot;&gt;tuned system&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A tuned exhaust system is an exhaust system for an internal combustion&#xA;  engine which improves its efficiency by using precise geometry to&#xA;  reflect the pressure waves from the exhaust valve or port back to the&#xA;  valve or port at a particular time in the cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the focus on this sort of optimization is the flow of exhaust gas, not the elimination of noise.  This doesn't mean that a well-designed system can't also be street legal but there's an excellent chance that, for common street vehicles, an exhaust system replacement will be louder than the stock equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why do I want it? If I want to race, if I want to save money, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not sure, there's a good chance that you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want a new exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This should follow from #1, but I'm still curious about what the&#xA;  classic get-a-performance-pipe-if scenarios are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, the most common story that I hear from people getting louder pipes is &quot;spent money, was louder, went slower.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some situations that have applied to me over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Muffler on normally aspirated car rusted out.  Sourced a replacement cat-back system that claimed single digit horsepower increases based on the manufacturing company's racing efforts.  The system used stainless steel so it was also less likely to rust and significantly lighter.  In the end, I paid hundreds of dollars for a few horsepower and more noise (admittedly, it sounded really cool).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust header on normally aspirated car lost an internal weld, turning the engine into Buzzy the Hummingbird.  Replaced header with stainless steel (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Muffler on turbo car got really rusty.  Replaced with stainless steel with better flow.  Very modest boost in power from increased exhaust flow (more important in a turbo car).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced turbo up-pipe (the primary path of exhaust gas to the turbo's turbine).  Significant increase in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, some basic guidelines drawn from my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replacing anything near the muffler is likely to increase noise significantly with only modest increases in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reducing weight is always a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reducing rust risk is great, too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A change to a forced-induction engine's exhaust components have the greatest effect near the &quot;forcing&quot; part of the system (e.g., the turbo).  Things aren't so obvious for a normally aspirated engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-08-11T22:43:09.757" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T22:43:09.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2012-08-07T23:38:17.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oiled-up plugs usually don't burn out ignition coils, so I'd rule that out unless the plugs get really badly carboned up. Just keep an eye on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1l/1000 miles isn't great for oil consumption, but it's not that bad either (although I wouldn't be too happy either given the low mileage of the engine) - have a look at the owners manual as to what the specs are and make sure that you have the correct oil that meets the VW requirements/certification and is of the correct viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2002 Golf isn't exactly a lightweight car, so with the small engine you are working the engine harder in normal driving than the bigger engines, hence the fuel consumption and potentially also the oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T23:38:17.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4090" CreationDate="2012-08-08T02:27:42.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can visually verify if the compressor is running by watching the clutch engage and disengage with the climate controls set to A/C.  If it's engaging and immediately dis-engaging on a warm day, the system is probably low on freon.  If it's not coming on at all, you'll want to check the relay and the wiring.  The relay is in the box on the driver's fender side under the hood.  You can swap in a known good one or have a finger on it while somebody toggles the controls in the cabin, you should be able to feel it engage.  A multimeter on the terminals works, too, but you'll need to know which ones to check.  A service manual would be handy for looking that up.  If the compressor is getting power but it's not coming on, the system could be totally empty or the pressure switch might be faulty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the condenser up front with the radiator (trace the lines from the compressor).  Is it dirty? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compressor is running, but you're not getting cold air, you might have a clogged expansion valve / orifice tube.  It's up under the power steering resevoir.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's hot when stopped and idling or moving at low speeds, but fine when at highway speeds, you might have a fan problem (or a really dirty condenser or a lot of bent fins on the condenser, or some combination of both).  When you turn the system on, one fan should engage immediately and stay on.  The other will come on when the powertrain controller decides things are getting too toasty under the hood.  You can verify operation of both fans by pulling the coolant temp sensor connector.  It's on the driver side of the engine, at the front, in a plastic housing.  With it disconnected, the powertrain controller should command both fans on to maximum since it doesn't know what the coolant temp is.  Watch out, this could throw a code and illuminate your check engine light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compressor is staying on for a while, check the pressure in the system at the service ports (stay away from the high pressure port unless you really know what you're doing) or have somebody else do it if you don't have a decent set of guages.  If there is too much or too little freon, the system won't cool.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been in this type of vehicle in the summer.  You just don't seem to get really cold air out of the vents when it's really hot outside at low speeds.  Though I've never been in one that was factory fresh, so I can't swear there isn't something wrong somewhere, but I've checked everything I mentioned.  Outside of stop and go traffic, 40 degrees at the vents is doable on Max A/C once the cabin has had time to cool down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and a pressure test after 1 day does not prove the system is tight.  Just that if there are any leaks, they're fairly small.  If it's still at spec pressure after a week or more of running in hot weather, it's tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T15:04:35.403" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:04:35.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2012-08-08T02:53:13.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Grand_Prix#First_generation_.281962.E2.80.931968.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fifth-generation&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_W_platform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;W-body&lt;/a&gt; Grand Prix.  So, possibly a Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass Supreme or Chevrolet Lumina from the same year will have what you need.  Of course, your keys probably won't work with the donor cylinder(s).  A dealer can probably get you new cylinders to match your keys.  There are various online retailers, too, where you can get GM parts not too much over wholesale, certainly below retail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An added bonus to having different cylinders and keys than what the GM information systems indicate for your VIN is that anybody with a forged bill of sale / title will get the wrong keys cut.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to replace lock cylinder, you're probably going to have to take all the interior trim off the door so you can access it.  This is where a factory service manual comes in handy.  They're a bit spendy, but I prefer them to the alternatives.  You might be able to mine one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmwbody.com/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;W-body forums&lt;/a&gt; for info.  If you've got a Pick-n-Pull style of boneyard local to you, you can practice on the donor vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T19:30:22.897" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:30:22.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2012-08-08T04:19:08.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd think you'd be much better off piggybacking off of an existing circuit or going through the firewall with an existing wire bundle rather than drilling a new hole.  If you're determined though, make sure you don't drill through anything important.  I suppose you could seal around the wires with silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T04:19:08.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4112" CreationDate="2012-08-08T09:37:26.313" Score="1" ViewCount="3194" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first motor-vehicle ever, a Simson s50 from 1976.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things seem to be running fine, but there are two problems I need to figure out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The engine dies unless rev'ed constantly - eg at a light. I assume this is simply an adjustment of the idle screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Once the engine dies, it will not kick-start again. This is what is most confusing to me as it will kick-start fine after a rest, eg - first thing in the morning and again later in the evening. However, it will absolutely refuse to start after stalling say at a red light etc... The only chance of getting the engine running again is a push-start. Is there any reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken it in to a shop and all they did was change the spark plug. It still has these above problems even after three visits to the shop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips much appreciated, as I am a newbie to motors!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q7rSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Simson S50&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2084" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:28:49.560" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:28:49.560" Title="50cc Two Stroke Scooter/Motorcycle - Idle and start issues" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|scooter|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3214" CreationDate="2012-08-08T09:53:23.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you've checked that the oil was of the correct specifications, and that it's at the correct level, there are three main options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearbox rebuild&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearbox replacement (new or used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive until it breaks (which might be never)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2017" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T09:53:23.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4066" CreationDate="2012-08-08T11:56:04.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet appears to be the firewall pass-through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forteforums.com/forums/koup-audio-video-electronics/2263-where-pass-firewall-my-subwoofer-wire.html#post28625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;behind the gas pedal&lt;/a&gt;.  That should allow you to run behind the dash fairly directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T11:56:04.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4102" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:38:49.773" Score="2" ViewCount="2392" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 10 year old Yamaha Super Tenere 750 has been off the road for a while as when I got it I learned it had had a bad crash which bent the frame. The rest all works, so I plan to take it to a garage to get it straightened. Apparently this will involve putting it in a jig and pulling it back into shape, then redoing the welds at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned and ride this bike carefully, or even get rid of it? Or is it something that is generally considered a full repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T00:39:52.187" Title="Damaged frame on my motorbike" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4101" CreationDate="2012-08-08T16:42:48.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a reputable shop doing it, I'd get it fixed and ride it.  If done properly frame repairs can be just fine.  It's just if they're NOT done properly that it can be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T16:42:48.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4082" CreationDate="2012-08-08T19:24:00.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is timing chain tensioner sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2085" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:24:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2012-08-09T12:15:54.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loose battery terminal can exhibit the same symptom.  Carefully check both ends of your main (thick) battery cables to ensure that they're tight and not overly corroded, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:15:54.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4090" CreationDate="2012-08-09T12:20:32.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the compressor clutch is activated via relay, it may need replacement.  As they get older it's fairly common for relays to get sticky and intermittently work.  I've got that going on with the power steering relay on my MR2.  Sometimes it just sticks and the power steering doesn't work until it frees up again (there's a couple methods to free it up again).  Not quite annoying enough for me to actually spend the money to replace the relay yet...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:20:32.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4051" CreationDate="2012-08-09T12:22:07.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add on to Mikes answer:  Next you'll probably find that the carb is full of varnish.  (a thick sludge left behind when gasoline sits in a puddle for a long time). You'll probably end up having to disassemble and clean it out, you may need to by a carburetor rebuild kit.  (probably)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, there's a good chance that the rodents have damaged the wiring.  With the plug out where you can see the tip, but the threads touching the metal of the engine, you should see spark when you kick the engine over.  (google it for a better description)  You have to have spark for the engine to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, whatever was wrong that caused the bike to be parked 20 years ago:  is still wrong now.  You'll have to find and fix it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:22:07.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4111" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:57:34.480" Score="7" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start working on cars as a hobby and to turn a small investment into a larger one. I have little experience working on cars but I am learning. I really enjoy working on them and would like to make some extra money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an area where there are some pull-a-part places as well as auto parts places and towing yards where cars are sold. I also know of one or two mechanic shops where I can purchase abandoned cars.  My uncle ran his own auto shop for years so I may be able to borrow tools that I can't find locally. As well as get his advice when needed. I mainly just want to learn how to fix cars as a hobby but I would love to buy cheap fix it and then sell for profit. Any advice on which cars to start on? Also other than buying a Haynes repair manual is there any other guides I should check out to learn how to work on cars better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:36:32.673" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:36:32.673" Title="DIY car repair: Which car should I try to start with?" Tags="|diy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:22:57.187" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two old jet skis, one of which isn't working too well anymore. I'd like to learn how to fix it. I'd probably not be able to sell it for very much anyways. Are there any good books or resources on jet ski repair? I know this is not usually available at your typical community college.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2065" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T17:50:06.397" Title="Jet ski maintainance" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:26:44.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cruise the local dealerships and ask to see the &quot;beater lot&quot;, the cars they've taken as trades that they're going to wholesale out or that will end up being sold at auction elsewhere.  Look at vehicles that were driven onto the lot and will be able to drive off.  Start with something rear wheel drive with an engine bay that's not too cramped, if you can.  You don't want to get something where you have to drop the subframe and support the engine and transmission to work on the suspension.  Don't bite off more than you can handle.  Something with peeling paint and no working A/C might be ideal.  Anything that runs, blows cold air, and is able to get by the local inspections / emissions is worth a bit of money, no matter what it looks like.  Factory Service manuals are great, but spendy.  I'm not a fan of the other repair manuals, though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T21:26:44.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2012-08-09T23:47:13.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I would dissuade you from just buying 'a book on how to fix jetskis' and reading it cover to cover. This would not only take a lot of your time, but also not give you the specific information you're in need of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first check would be for a Clymer/Haynes/Chilton's repair manual for your specific year and model of jetski. There are some available on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.procycle.us/manuals/manuals_watercraft.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt;, and of course eBay and Amazon. These would give you much more detailed answers that apply to your specific brand and model, and not generic one-size fits all pseudo answers (4 stroke engines look and work very different than 2 stroke ones, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find this, I would start googling for specific problems. Lack of power? Poor seals? Bent/damaged impellers? Hull repairs? What exactly are you trying to fix? Once you pick one of these areas to address, start searching for replacement parts or guides to address each area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T23:47:13.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2012-08-10T10:40:02.197" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older cars are usually easier to work on from a hobbyist point of view, as they have less electronics and can be fixed with hand tools rather than a laptop.  Restoring a classic is also more enjoyable than fixing up a banger, and gives you something more to be proud of when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything up to the mid-late 90's will be fixable at home, with a bit of common sense and a Haynes. Find something with decent enthusiast support, as then you'll have a good community with detailed knowledge of the car in question to fall back on when you get stuck. Parts tend to be more common and cheaper for popular cars as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you've got somewhere decent to work on the car - off road, ideally covered, and out of the way so you don't alienate your neighbours. Buy a decent socket set, hammer and screwdrivers to begin with (I think there are other questions on here relating to what tools to get), and before starting each job work out what tools and parts you'll need. Don't rely on the car you're fixing to get you to work the next morning, or you will end up out there late at night in the middle of winter desperately trying to finish a major job! (been there, done that!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="2105" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T13:01:32.923" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T13:01:32.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4098" CreationDate="2012-08-10T14:37:37.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the compression. If something is causing a loss of compression, like worn piston rings, then that could be the reason for all those problems. Push starts creates higher pressure in the cylinder because it moves the piston faster than a kick start. Also, it could start cold but not warm due to the temp of the air being brought into the cylinder. When an engine is hot it will bring in heated air which is less dense, as to when it is cold the air wont be heated up by the engine and be more dense, leading to greater compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T14:37:37.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2012-08-10T18:15:51.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Selecting a precise car is dependent on what's available in your region.  In my area of the world, (The central U.S.A.) I'd recommend you look for RWD volvo products from 1970 to about 1994.  They're easy to understand, they have plenty of room to work under the hood, and a lot of assistance is available on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T18:15:51.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T10:12:38.630" Score="2" ViewCount="2989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Ford Explorer key fob off of Amazon and it came with instructions as to how to reprogram my car. Having follored this, as well as reading the manual and various posts online, my car fails to accept it. Here is what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to insert the key into the ignition and turn from off (where the key is able to be inserted and removed) to on (2 clicks beyond off) 8 times, then on the 8th time to leave the key in the on position. If done correctly doors are supposed to cycle locked - unlocked. My Doors do not. I sat in my car for a good 30 mins turning it on and off to no avail. My car did come with lojack, but I disabled it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to how to reprogram my car? I have the two keys and 2 original fobs (which are giving out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2090" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T23:19:24.280" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T22:34:44.233" Title="98 Ford Explorer FOB reprogramming not working" Tags="|ford|keyless-entry|un105|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4134" CreationDate="2012-08-11T21:12:53.813" Score="4" ViewCount="2923" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty straight forward question, but I have an 09 Camry 5-speed manual. It only has about 25k miles on it and has been regularly serviced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as of late I've noticed that when I drop it into neutral and am standing still (at a red light for example) the entire car seems to rumble and I notice that the rev counter is dropping to about 300 to 400 RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have any idea what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T21:57:48.580" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T21:57:48.580" Title="09 Camry engine rumbles" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4121" CreationDate="2012-08-12T02:59:00.007" Score="3" ViewCount="2877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I filled the reservoir and noticed a drip. I took it out, emptied it, and found the source of the leak. The plug that goes in at the bottom of the reservoir was leaking (see picture). Besides buying a new plug and/or reservoir, anyone have a quick fix to get a better seal on the plug? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 1998 Chevrolet Metro/Toyota Corolla. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a total beater that I bought 2 years ago for $300 bucks. I've been learning a lot by doing minor cost effective repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ld5Ns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2091" LastEditorUserId="2091" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T05:51:53.227" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T05:51:53.227" Title="Windshield washer fluid reservoir leaking at pump plug. Quick Fix?" Tags="|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-12T06:40:16.500" Score="2" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2006 Cobalt SS (not supercharged) with the 2.4L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last month or so the traction control light has been coming on periodically. Turning the engine off and back on causes the light to go off. While the light is on I notice that when the car shifts gears (it's automatic, as you might have guessed) it does it quite a bit harder than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what may be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:21:56.567" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:21:56.567" Title="2006 Cobalt SS - Traction Control Light &amp; Hard Shifting" Tags="|automatic-transmission|chevrolet|shifting|cobalt|delta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-12T06:47:10.237" Score="6" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2006 Cobalt SS (not supercharged) with the 2.4L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today my serpentine belt broke. I need to get the car into the shop this week for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4117/2006-cobalt-ss-traction-control-light-hard-shifting&quot;&gt;different problem&lt;/a&gt;. I'm fairly confident that I can get a new belt on without too much trouble, but I do have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the car in late 2005/early 2006. It has almost 100,000 miles on it and the belt has never been changed, so it seems plausible that the belt was simply old and worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From everything I've read so far it seems that the next most likely cause is that some pulley (either the tensioner, alternator, or compressor) has seized up, eventually resulting in the breakage of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is just the belt, no big deal. Fixed by replacing the belt. The question is how can I diagnose the other possibilities? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I find that one of the pulleys has seized up, should I attempt to drive it to the shop (about 2 miles) or should I have it towed in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T00:28:04.487" Title="2006 Cobalt SS - Serpentine Belt Broke, How to Diagnose" Tags="|belt|cobalt|belt-tensioner|delta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2012-08-12T20:15:06.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite possible it just broke due to age and wear.  I have personally experienced that when the belt wasn't replaced on schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were in the vehicle when it broke the belt, I'd be surprised if you wouldn't have heard loud unpleasant noises or felt something if it broke due to something seizing up.  If it just broke, all you would have noticed was a muffled thump and the illumination of the warning light to let you know your alternator voltage just went to zero.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see if you can move the tensioner to verify it's not seized.  You might need a lever.  A socket wrench will sometimes work, or you can rent a tool from a parts store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rest of the pulleys, maybe you can move the ac clutch or the water pump or alternator by hand, but I don't think you're going to get the hub attached to the crankshaft to move.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you might poke around bit before replacing the belt, then watch it when the vehicle starts.  Should be easy to spot a seized pulley, but it might also be a good way to catch a broken belt in the face, so don't watch too close.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the pulleys is seized, I don't see how you're going to drive it to the shop, unless it's the belt tensioner, and if it's that one, I'd be surprised if you could the new belt on, depending on what position it's stuck in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you want to drive the thing without the belt on, I think the water pump is belt driven.  Check the belt routing diagram.  Should be on the underside of the hood or on the radiator support.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T20:18:31.367" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:18:31.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2012-08-12T20:17:05.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drain it, dry it, and apply liberal amounts of silicone sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T20:17:05.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4133" CreationDate="2012-08-12T20:24:45.407" Score="2" ViewCount="15597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis.  The blower motor has suddenly stopped working.  All speeds were available and it was blowing cold air before the malfunction.  It was blowing fine, shutdown, sat overnight, and the blower would not come on after it was started the next day.  This vehicle is equipped with the temperature control option for the climate controls.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the fuses and relays, they're good.  The fuses are intact and the relay was swapped with a known good unit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else to check before getting out the multimeter?  I'd suspect the blower resistor, except the fan is not even working on high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been cruising the forums, sounds like it might be the fan controller (present when equipped with automatic temperature control, in the same location the resistor would be otherwise).  It's under the hood on the passenger side, on the firewall under two heater hoses which have to come off to get at it, to the right of the blower motor itself if you're facing towards the rear of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no ground on the blower motor connector, which indicated a bad blower speed control module.  Module replaced with the redesigned part.  Blower now works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T17:33:47.073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:09:31.543" Title="2004 Mercury Grand Marquis blower motor not coming on at all" Tags="|mercury|ford-panther-platform|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2012-08-12T22:26:26.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get at the blower motor turn it on and put your hand on to see if you can feel the motor running. You may be able to feel it try to start if you have someone cycle the switch while you touch it. There is the chance the fan wheel fell off (this usually generates a racket) or a chipmunk has it packed with acorns. If you can't feel the motor start it is time to break out the meter and start probing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T22:26:26.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4127" CreationDate="2012-08-13T07:00:19.310" Score="2" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Honda Prelude. The paint is absolutely shot from being in the sun too long. I was thinking about getting it repainted and sanding it back to the undercoat myself panel by panel to save money. Thing is I would need it every now and then so its not something I can let sit over the course of a week or two. Also, I dont have a garage so the car would be out in the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is if I sand back to the undercoat/primer and leave for a while do I risk rust and/or other damage to the panels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T22:35:34.987" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T10:36:59.567" Title="Is it safe to take the paint back to the undercoat? (will it rust?)" Tags="|paint|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4202" CreationDate="2012-08-13T08:24:22.183" Score="2" ViewCount="4027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an aftermarket device that turn off the engine when the car is in rest and turn on the engine when the throttle is pushed. Which are the producer? Where i can find it on internet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastEditorUserId="1803" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T09:03:48.140" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:58:28.680" Title="Aftermarket start-stop system" Tags="|engine|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4125" CreationDate="2012-08-13T09:37:46.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the undercoat layer intact you should be fine, as it should prevent rust - but be very careful when you take it this far back. My recommendation would be to strip it back and then re-coat the primer/undercoat. That way you are protecting against areas where the moisture can get to bare metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the UK you may have problems doing this outdoors, as the moisture in the air may start to cause oxidation. In Arizona I would imagine you would have far fewer problems :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T09:37:46.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2012-08-13T12:18:40.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like it was just worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to turn the alternator and a/c compressor pulleys by hand. I'd replace the tensioner if it hasn't been done already anyway, and with a new tensioner, fitting a new belt should be fairly easy* as you can fit it with the tensioner un-tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the auxiliary belt hasn't been changed in 100,000 miles, chances are the cambelt (timing belt) hasn't either. If that is the case, that needs to be changed asap, as a broken cambelt can cause catastrophic engine failure - of course, if you have a timing chanin rather than a belt this isn't a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for driving it to the workshop, if the belt only drives the alternator and a/c then this should be fine, as the car will run quite happily without them for a short distance. If it also drives the water pump however then you must not drive the car without the belt fitted, as the engine will very quickly overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*for given values of easy - I've seen cars that require engine mounts to be removed to change the belt as the belt passes through the mount, and other cars where it can be changed in seconds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T12:18:40.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-13T20:25:08.507" Score="4" ViewCount="2592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1999 Saab 9-3 2.0l Automatic (not the turbo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been running fine, then a bit more than a month ago it started to stutter when accelerating or decelerating. Only occasionally, but it would feel like the car was about to stall, or it would lag a bit then lurch forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this WASN'T happening, I'd sometimes get the CHECK ENGINE light coming on, but that would never stay on for long and by the time I got it home and plugged in a fault code reader I'd just get &quot;no codes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, today I was doing 30 and the car just cut out. I was on pretty flat land with barely any gas, and it just died. I pulled over to the side of the road, turned off the ignition, waited a minute and started it up again. I drove home fine with no stuttering, cutting out or engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air filter looks fine, the spark plugs are a bit sooty but they are clear where the spark is. The oil and transmission fluid is clear and there's no gunge or dirt around the filler cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where I can look or how I can diagnose anything more certain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2097" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T07:11:05.140" Title="Saab 9-3 stuttering and cutting out" Tags="|automatic-transmission|sparkplugs|saab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-07-22T12:10:37.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4153" CreationDate="2012-08-13T22:46:42.663" Score="5" ViewCount="3626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 model Honda VTR 250. Up until now the bike has been super reliable. However, recently it has been struggling to start in the morning. The engine turns over many times before catching and sometimes wont start at all - I flatten the battery just trying to start it. Once sufficiently warm though, every things fine. Normally I would just assume it was struggling with the cold weather except that I've ridden it every day this winter no worries (up until now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know why this is occurring? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:20:29.340" Title="Motorcycle: Honda VTR 250 difficulty starting" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|starting|warmup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2012-08-14T03:56:36.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine it is the clutch throw-out bearing (alternately called a release bearing). When the clutch pedal is pressed the bearing starts rotating inside the housing. When the clutch pedal is released the bearing stops rotating in a second or two once the pressure is removed from it. Normally, it's silent but bearings can make squealing, grinding, coarse noises when they start wearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see it in the picture below (it's the blue thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J47Rr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E46 CLUTCH KIT&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that replacing it means digging into the transmission, which means replacing the clutch, too.  I have worked on my E46 enough to know that this would be... um... less than fun, and would require special tools that you very well may not have. I'm reluctant to guess what a shop might charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's worth waiting until the clutch needs replacing before doing anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T03:56:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4117" CreationDate="2012-08-14T15:55:42.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TCS systems are pretty simple, generally. They basically use all the same hardware as the ABS system, so one probable fault would be a bad wheel speed sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to think of anything to tie the TCS fault together with the hard shifting...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T15:55:42.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:00:15.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems highly likely that it's the Blower Motor Speed Controller.  It's a known problem on the last couple generations of this platform and a redesigned part has been issued (8W7Z-19E624-A).  It's possible that it's just a bad blower motor, or both the blower motor and controller could be bad.  Good info &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/10/2002-mercury-grand-marquis-blower-inop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  The blower motor and the controller are in the engine bay on the passenger side of the firewall.  The blower motor connector should have power on the brown-orange wire.  The orange-red wire is the ground.  If they're both good, it's a bad blower motor.  If there is no ground, it's time to check the controller.  The darn thing is so hard to get to, though, you might as well just go ahead and replace it if the blower motor is good.  Especially if the redesigned part has not already been installed.  I don't think it was even available until 2009 or later.  Replacing it involves clamping off the heater hoses it's under and getting them out of the way.  It's held in by two 8mm screws.  If you're incredibly lucky, persistent or perhaps gifted, you might be able to get it out without undoing the hoses, but the guy that's been doing this for years says he can't always do it without getting at least one of the hoses off.  If you're determined to test it with a multimeter before swapping it, you can get at the connecter if you get the EVAP solenoid out of the way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:00:15.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4115" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:25:27.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4-cyl camry's of that vintage are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/408458-rough-idle-2009-camry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;known to have a rough idle&lt;/a&gt;, but a drop to 300-400 RPM at idle is pretty severe. I haven't seen the spec, but I would think that car should probably warm idle in the 800-900 RPM range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have the car scanned to check for pending trouble codes. These codes can show up before the Check Engine Light (CEL) goes on, and they can be a huge diagnostic clue as to what's wrong. I'd expect to find something here if your problem is as severe as it sounds--the computer should have logged some misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The generally accepted stuff to check for a &quot;normal&quot; rough idle would be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;intake system: clean the throttle body and mass airflow sensor, check for vacuum leaks; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ignition system: spark plugs, wires, and ignition coil(s); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel system: injectors, filter;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'd suspect something like a bad sensor or bad ignition coil--something that can really screw with the system profoundly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:25:27.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:48:55.977" Score="27" ViewCount="76841" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When sitting in traffic or at a long red light, is the Best Practice to have the car in 1st gear with your foot on the clutch, or in neutral with your foot off the clutch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say that you should be in gear to be ready to move if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say that long-term clutch use can lead to premature wear of clutch components, such as the throwout bearing (and certainly many more if you don't get the clutch fully disengaged!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:17:27.413" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T14:44:12.830" Title="Manual transmission at stop: 1st with clutch in, or neutral with clutch out? -OR- Throwout Bearing wear" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|driving|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:20:19.520" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My choice would depend on the duration of the stop. If you're rolling up to an intersection and see the light change to red knowing you will sit for a full cycle I'd opt for &quot;in neutral foot off the clutch&quot;. Pulling up to an already red light I would go for &quot;in gear clutch depressed&quot; as you can figure you'll have a short wait. Having the clutch depressed adds wear to the throw out bearing, slave cylinder and clutch fingers. Having the clutch engaged with the transmission in neutral does not add wear to the clutch as it is mated to the flywheel and not slipping which is what causes the wear. This does add some wear to the transmission but it has been my experience that transmission bearings and gears are more robust than the clutch parts and seldom fail from wear. Some may argue that cycling the clutch adds wear but the use is momentary, not the constant load of holding the clutch disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T02:49:10.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T02:49:10.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:40:35.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated, the problems that you describe can be caused by two things i have described all &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1-Broken Starter: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Starter Brushes may have failed (or a starter coil broke) in which case you will need to have the starter repaired/replaced this will be your last port of call&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-No/Too Little Current to Starter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you hear a click when you turn the ignition and the battery voltage is high enough (12.6v) starter motor not getting enough current to begin turning the engine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As bob said, check your battery terminals for residue on the terminals, if this is the case you should clean with Bicarb and water. also check that you cannot move the terminal clamps on the terminals. if so, you will need to tighten. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An issue could be the wiring from the battery to the Starter. you can take some jumper leads and use them to connect the positive terminal of the battery directly to the Starter  ( you will need to touch the lead to the point where the original wire from the battery is mounted) - if you do this and the starter turns, you have eliminated a starter fault.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, check if you have an immobiliser installed in the car, most times you may have a fault there. (do you have a bypass switch so that you can de-activate the immobiliser) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T21:40:35.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2012-08-15T03:57:59.310" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.Spark plugs should be torqued on a cold engine!&#xA;2.Use anti seize on aluminum heads!&#xA;3.Torque wrench must be used on aluminum heads to prvent damage from over tighting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T03:57:59.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4146" CreationDate="2012-08-15T06:26:03.873" Score="10" ViewCount="14360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a aging (y2k) motorcycle with not too many Ks on the clock. I have been told by a mechanic that I need to replace my sprockets and chain. This seems reasonable since the chain has been poorly maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, if the sprockets were worn, you'd replace them to prevent damage to the chain. Given both are worn, I am thinking there is no great hurry to replace them. On a previous bike, I've had chain slippage over the sprockets but this bike is nowhere near that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some risk I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:09:16.407" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T21:56:28.257" Title="What may happen if I do not replace my motorcycle's chain" Tags="|motorcycle|swingarm|chain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2012-08-15T08:42:27.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guidance from the Institute of Advanced Motorists in the UK is to place the car into neutral and use the parking brake. The wear on the clutch from keeping the clutch pedal in isn't likely to be an issue(*), but in the event of the car behind bumping you your foot could slip off the clutch, propelling you into the car in front! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an ecological perspective, a more and more accepted best practice is actually to come to a complete stop, change to neutral, put on the parking brake and turn off the engine. For anything over a 15 second stop (or thereabouts) this is less ecologically damaging, and is the reason many modern cars do this automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*If you don't push the clutch in fully, you can wear your clutch plates quite easily, so if you have a strong spring on your clutch pedal you should take care holding the clutch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T08:42:27.670" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4125" CreationDate="2012-08-15T10:36:59.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can sand back to the primer everywhere, but I wouldn't make that the goal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to provide a smooth (but not too smooth!), level surface that the new paint can adhere to (and of course that adheres to the metal).  In some places, that might require sanding back to the existing primer, or even bare metal if you need to do body work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to scuff the entire surface, but all you need to remove is the oxidized or damaged paint.  The damage will probably be worst on the horizontal surfaces (hood/bonnet, roof, trunk/boot) and not so severe on the vertical surfaces.  If the existing paint is sticking well, so will a topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you've made it down to bare metal, a basic spray-can primer will keep rust from forming.  Epoxy primers (two parts need to be mixed) are more durable, but are not as convenient.  Although you don't have to have a spray rig -- you can brush on epoxy primers, take care not to apply too thick a coat, plus you'll have more sanding to do once it hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't make the surface glassy-smooth.  On the first car I restored, I made the mistake of sanding the primer down to 600 grit or higher, which was not only a lot of work, it was too smooth for best adhesion.  Gloss comes later, from the paint or the clearcoat.  I stop at 220 grit (or maybe 320 at the most if it's a very thin paint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to do this over time, when you finally think you're done, give the body a super good wash, rinse and dry with clean cloths.  You might find that you need to touch up areas that have gotten dirty, damaged or oxidized since you started.  Then just before painting (e.g., just outside the booth), give it a cleaning with solvent to remove any remaining traces of grease or oil, and don't touch it after that!  (Your hands are oily.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're not going to spray it yourself, talk to the body shop who will be.  If they're not completely indifferent, they'll let you know what they want.  (Also, talk to several shops and ask to see some of their recent results.  They vary a lot in level of care.)   If it's a cheap place, sanding it yourself will mainly just get you a better job.  Removing all the lights, trim and seals yourself will probably also help with the quality and cost.  For the best job, you'd remove the windows as well, but you can get passable results with careful masking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to get a better paint job is to use a really good quality paint (which unfortunately isn't cheap).  I like urethanes over acrylic lacquers for longevity.  If you were spraying it yourself for the first time, I'd recommend a single stage urethane (one paint provides both color and gloss), but any shop &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be competent to do a two stage (color coat plus separate glossy clearcoat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have particular references/research for this -- it's all based on doing it wrong myself and learning from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T10:36:59.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4142" CreationDate="2012-08-15T14:33:57.687" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain maintenance is critically important for motorcycle safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this old chain has not been properly maintained throughout its life, you may be at higher risk of seized links or chain breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best case scenario with a broken chain is that it comes off the bike cleanly and you coast safely to a stop, avoiding any encounters with surrounding traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario with a broken chain is that it whips around and gashes your leg before getting jammed between the rear sprocket and the swingarm, locking your rear wheel and sending you into a skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your chain looks pristine, if you've got the money, buy yourself the peace of mind of a new chain and sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T14:33:57.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2012-08-15T15:25:11.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention which engine is in your Jetta, but the Mk IV VWs, especially the VR6 engine, are known to have brittle ignition coil housings that crack and admit water, which leads to misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the engine has run for a while, it burns off this moisture and it starts running fine again. Some VWs were subject to a recall to fix this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience with these cars, the coil would be the first place I'd look. Your description is textbook for a cracked ignition coil housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T16:15:16.327" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T16:15:16.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3974" CreationDate="2012-08-15T19:31:03.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten car parts from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vpartsinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vintage Parts&lt;/a&gt;.  Looks like they carry some Harley parts, but no Yamaha, for example.  Almost everything that was ever mass produced turns up on Ebay if you wait long enough, for certain definitions of 'long enough'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T19:31:03.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4142" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:34:18.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A worn chain doesn't have to break to be a hazard. As the chain and sprockets wear the chain gets longer and the sprockets get smaller. This makes tensioning the chain difficult if not impossible as the jacking/tug bolts will not be long enough. If the teeth are worn bad enough the chain may not roll off the sprocket as it turns. This could cause the wheel to lock up and result in a uncontrolable skid. The lack of chain tension could also cause the chain to fall off and jam in the drive train. You might ruin the wheel or damage the engine and transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:34:18.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:37:37.910" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;most newer cars automatics shift gears for you so as not to let you blow the engine. They put this in so people who bought a new car would stop blowing the engine and saying i dont no what happen (tring not to have to pay for the car lemon)put your car or truck in low gear gun it going down the road it will shift for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2106" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:37:37.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:51:01.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making the assumption you have a manual choke and are using it for coldstarts. Remove the airfilter and verify that the choke is working. Look into the throat (opening in the carb) and activate the choke. You should be able to see if the choke plate is blocking the air passage. In the fully closed position it should just about block the entire opening. Move it to the open position and see if it moves so it would block no air flow. If everything moves ok the next cold morning apply 3/4 choke and see if it starts.Move the choke alittle in each direction to see if it will fire. If you are lucky you just need to adjust the choke to the sweet spot that is rich enough to start but not so rich that it floods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T20:51:01.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2012-08-15T21:05:33.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have a secondary ignition issue. You may be able to isolate it by waiting until dark and start the engine. With the hood open look around the engine in the area of the sparkplugs and plug wires. You may see some arching as individual plugs fire. This is a sign of bad wires or other ignition components. If nothing is visible shut off the engine and spray a plug wire with a spray bottle of water. Restart the engine and see if it is running rough or missing. Do this to each wire and the coilpack. While this doesn't verify an ignition component as good it might point you toward a bad one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T21:05:33.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2012-08-15T23:56:48.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 15C you should almost be able to start the bike without the choke if it still has carbs and the carbs are working OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the health of the battery. A fully charged battery should have around 13.2V when doing nothing, so 12V is a little low. Did you by any chance measure the voltage when cranking the engine? That's usually a good indicator as to how healthy the battery is. Anything below 10V would indicate that it is time to replace the battery, especially if it has been considerably discharge a few times. My main bike was suffering from that last year, it was cranking OK but wouldn't fire because the battery was close to giving up the ghost. A new battery solved that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check or get someone to check that you have a nice fat spark at the plugs. If the engine has been flooded, I would change the plugs - when they get flooded, a lot of plugs don't seem to recover too well. I've had this on several vehicles and usually spending a couple of bucks for new plugs resolved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to start the engine with the fuel filler cap off. A blocked vent can lead to the fuel not flowing properly to the carb as the fuel that is trying to exit the tank is creating a vacuum in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T23:56:48.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-16T19:21:17.203" Score="5" ViewCount="8769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 81 Chevy pickup C10 that I was replacing the brake hose on. In the process of trying to take the brake line loose from it I started to twist the line when I thought I had finally started to break them loose from each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to go to a local pull-a-part place and get the replacement brake line I need, but once again I wasn't able to get it disconnected from the hose so I just cut the hose and pulled it through the frame so that the line was intact. What is the best way for me to loosen the brake line from the hose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also was not able to remove the brake line currently on my truck from the spot where the brake lines intersect ( I have no idea what the part is called.) Also what is the best way to clean the brake line before I install it? I believe I've been told rubbing alcohol would be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T10:29:57.203" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T22:54:25.803" Title="How to safely remove stuck threads? (Brakeline from Brakehose)" Tags="|maintenance|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2012-08-16T20:51:46.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the best chemical rustbuster I have found is PB Blaster. If you don't have access to a torch or if it is in an area that heat would cause problems this is the stuff I use. The key point is patience. I spray the part and let it soak for 15-20 minutes. If it still won't turn spray it again and wrap a small piece of rag around the fitting and soak it with PB Blaster. Let it soak overnight. You may have to repeat it several times. Once it starts to turn spray it again. If it starts to get tight again turn it in the opposite direction 1/4 to 1/2 turn then try to back it off again. Repeat the process always stopping when the fitting gets tight. When you reassemble it use neversieze or teflon tape on  the threaded part of the fitting. This will make it easier the next time. Prior to reassembly spray the parts with brake cleaner to remove any oils that could contaminate the brake fluid.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T20:11:18.817" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T20:11:18.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-16T21:45:37.850" Score="3" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, and the wipers now only work at high-speed, regardless of the stalk setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal order is off - intermittent - low - high; however now they go to high speed for all 3 switch settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single sweep (put the stalk up from the off position) still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T08:18:06.270" Title="Why do my wipers only operate at high speed?" Tags="|volvo|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4160" CreationDate="2012-08-17T02:51:01.813" Score="3" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a curved area on fibreglass with a dent in it. I have filled it with body filler but when I sand it back there is still an obvious ridge where the filler meets the body. I have sanded it down and repeated this many times but still get the same result. I have tried course and fine sand paper but each time I apply primer the ridge is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips on how to overcome this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T23:09:16.980" Title="How to remove edges around body filler/bondo?" Tags="|paint|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4156" CreationDate="2012-08-17T08:18:06.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause - the stalk switch is faulty, and rather than moving through the three different positions it just closes the high speed circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to replace the stalk switch easily and cheaply - find one at a breaker's yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T08:18:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4157" CreationDate="2012-08-17T20:04:15.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago we used something called &quot;red putty&quot; it is made by 3M available at autobody supply shops.. It was applied over the bondo. It acted like a thick primer that came in a can. It was smoother and thinner than filler so the edges feathered smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T22:15:06.360" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T22:15:06.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-17T22:38:59.770" Score="1" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BMW 330d, 2001 year, saloon, 135kw&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I have change the turbo charger of my car. There was a problem related with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3976/bmw-330d-2001-e46-turbo-charger-not-working-as-expected-after-changing&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I went to the garage and they ran the diagnostics. Diagnostics showed that the EGR VALVE is broken. I have change the EGR valve as well, but the problem still remains. There is no power until the tachometer reaches 2000 and I need to release the pedal a little bit and then press it again, then the turbo is on and power comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking maybe there are some errors in the car's computer that needs to be cleaned? How do you think? If I clean those errors, set everything related to them to zero, maybe it should solve the problem? I heard that if there are some errors left and they might cause this problem, because the parts (turbo charger and EGR valve) is new and car's computer is not aware of them until I clean the old errors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="33024" LastEditDate="2021-10-08T17:52:54.467" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T17:52:54.467" Title="BMW 330d 2001 no power problem" Tags="|bmw|diesel|turbocharger|power|egr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2012-08-18T00:40:47.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know exactly what is wrong with the car. It will cost about 400 dollars in parts if you do it yourself. If you have an air compressor and impact and various metric sockets, the fix should be relativley easy if you have any mechanical experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine and transmision mounts are wore out casuing the engine and transmission to shake when the car is in drive stopped.  When the car is in park or neutral the shake calms considerably but still not all of the way. There are 5 differnt mounts that will be needed to fix this problem. One is directly in front between the radiator and engine towards the bottom of the car. The other is under the air filter.  The next is on the passenger side fender well.  The other on the bottom of the firewall dead center of the back of the engine, and the last one is under the car mmounted to the frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify them the mounts are round with a bolt through them with a large rubber bushing. The engine and transmission need just a slight movement this is the reason for the rubber bushing.  Anyway, I hope this helps.  I just had to replace these on a car and it runs like a dream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2113" LastEditorUserId="569" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T21:03:51.523" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:03:51.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4164" CreationDate="2012-08-18T06:58:37.730" Score="2" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I know a little about cars, the bulk of my knowledge came from when I was a kid bolting on stuff to my Honda and racing it illegally. (So, not much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My '96 Civic DX (5-speed) recently passed 220k miles, and when on the highway, completely blew up while my wife was driving it. She had it towed home, I attempted to turn the engine over, and it sounded like a loud grinding noise. I figured there was a thrown rod and just chalked it up to age/miles. I called my local mechanic - whom, up to this point, I trusted - and asked him about a replacement engine. He offered to do a swap for $2400, I said that it was too expensive, and he found a cheaper engine and came down to $1700. I mulled it over but didn't have the money, so a few months later when I did (now), I contacted him and he said he could do it for $1800 + tax. Fair enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it towed there and they said it'd be done by Thursday/Friday of this week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went in on Friday, and they said that the new engine works, but the transmission may have been damaged due to the broken connecting rods (they showed me the parts), and that it may be significantly more expensive as it could require a gear repack or a new transmission + labor. They said they would have no idea if the transmission was bad without connecting it to the block and starting the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm pretty pissed because at no point did they make it clear a replacement transmission was in the cards. Had I known there was even a chance of that happening, I would have sold the car for parts, since it would have clearly exceeded $2400 in parts + labor - which I previously said in conversations with the mechanic that it wasn't worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions, I guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is their claim of &quot;we must connect the transmission and start the engine to know if there's a problem&quot; true? If not, how could they have diagnosed it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you think they acted ethically given the background I provided to you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a ton, guys. Hopefully this wall of text isn't too much; just wanted to provide enough detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2114" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T13:06:49.557" Title="Possible to diagnose broken transmission without starting engine?" Tags="|engine|honda|transmission|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2012-08-18T09:59:16.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a pretty reasonable claim - if something was visually obvious, then it would be very bad, but there are a lot of types of damage that you just won't find until you crank it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before a garage sees the vehicle, they pretty much have to rely on what the customer is telling them, so based on your account, your thoughts that it was probably a thrown rod etc., then I reckon they could have assumed that was all they would have to sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If during the repair they realised there were wider issues, that is when I would expect them to contact you, and it sounds like that is what they have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some garages may go a bit further and discuss the possible damage options with you earlier, but as they are just guessing at that point, many wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, from your account of it I can't see anything unethical - all seems reasonable to me, however I am not a lawyer, just a petrolhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T09:59:16.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2012-08-18T13:06:49.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the outcome may have been different if you had just called and said the car died what could be wrong? If your question is accurate you asked for the cost of replacing the engine and that is what was done. The ethical thing I always tried to do was evaluate the whole vehicle before suggesting repairs costing close to the vehicles value. They may have not suggested a new motor based on the mileage and age if you hadn't asked. You may have implied that you were willing to spend the money to fix what ever was wrong. That is water under the bridge at this point. If the car has served you well for 220000 miles and is generally in decent shape it may be worth your while to put a trans in it.   If you sold the car as is you won't get the money back. With a replacement power train  you should get many more years of service out of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T13:06:49.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3757" CreationDate="2012-08-18T16:10:38.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer the sunshade problem (I have it too) but the passenger compartment fusebox is on the driver's side. The door has to be open and it does need to be prised off. Use a flat blunt object so you don't damage the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2116" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T12:31:15.670" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:31:15.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3757" CreationDate="2012-08-18T17:02:23.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took her in to s Mercedes licensed mechanic, they took apart the assembly. Turns out the Up motor worked fine, but the Down motor was burt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; a similar situation could be caused by something as simple as a blown fuse or a misalignment of the &quot;scissor&quot; bars that raise/lower the shade, but that wasn't the case here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it was the dead motor and not something simple they'd have had to replace &lt;em&gt;the entire assembly&lt;/em&gt; which costs $1700. They're expensive because no one bothers to replace them, most places won't have them in stock. Instead they (carefully) shoved the shade back into it's housing and took out the fuse so it couldn't be accidentally put up again. If this happens to you make sure you take the fuse for the sunshade out! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1817" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T17:02:23.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4246" CreationDate="2012-08-19T05:24:09.910" Score="3" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a few months now my 1999 Toyota Avalon XLS (California model - this apparently affects the emissions specs - I'm in NY however) with around 105k miles has been giving me these totally random periods of revving at idle between 500-750 RPM (sounding like a cat purr) and then continuing that feeling when I'm diving and I'm coasting or easing the engine (but not accelerating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran my code reader on the car and kept getting a P0171 (engine running lean) code so I pretty much (over a period of a few stages) replaced my MAF sensor, tested all the O2 Sensors, replaced a faulty ignition coil - and I replaced my intake manifold gasket and the O Rings for my pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons we had the gaskets and O-Rings replaced is because using a Vacuum Gauge and air compressor allowed us to find some leaks in those regions. Additionally I inspected my timing belt and it looks perfectly fine so I'm pretty sure that isn't really the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While all these replacements cleared the check engine light to date, today I started to experience the revving again - which actually lasted for probably an hour of driving on the highway (even after letting the engine rest for a couple of hours) - then stopped temporarily - and then ten minutes later resumed literally as I pulled into my driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I tried running the codes twice today - my reader is now saying everything is A-OK. The serious issue with this problem however is that it happens sporadically so it's hard to recreate the issue at the right time. &#xA;'&#xA;As my car is approaching inspection I'm trying hard to fix this issue myself (if possible) because since the P0171 (running lean) code has so many possible causes, it's literally a matter of trial and error for the repair which can cost well over $1k at least from what I was quoted by the dealer (and also from my research on parts and labor online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any assistance with this is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: Took my car in for inspection and it passed with flying colors but the issue is now even worse. I think the technical term for the symptoms are &quot;hunting&quot; and &quot;surging&quot; - I believe my car is experiencing both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine reving/surging/etc. is now getting worse to the point that my engine has stalled when idling in traffic and also I had to crank the engine a few times to get it started again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now thinking of changing the fuel filter but I'm not sure if that will help since this issue is always random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastEditorUserId="891" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T22:48:54.633" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T13:36:47.810" Title="Engine Revving/Misfiring - Formerly Running Lean - No Trouble Codes Now" Tags="|engine|toyota|cel|fuel-system|emissions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4170" CreationDate="2012-08-19T10:01:31.027" Score="1" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully a pretty straight forward one: I've been having trouble starting my bike. I checked the voltage on the battery when it was idling and got 12.9. Is this too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T20:06:45.470" Title="Motorcycle battery - correct voltage running and stopped?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4169" CreationDate="2012-08-19T10:32:57.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that is a little low, normal voltage should be about 14volts at idle and 12volts with the engine off. However you need to check this with a fully charged battery. That way you can isolate the problem to the battery or the charging system. I might be fine for a while but if you start taxing the electrical system with frequent starts and long term headlight use you might see issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-19T20:06:45.470" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T20:06:45.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4180" CreationDate="2012-08-19T20:29:04.353" Score="2" ViewCount="2642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to program my 2007 Prius to open my garage door.  I succeeded doing this for my 2006 Highlander with no problems.  However, for the prius, I cannot get the car to work as described in the manual and suspect something is broken or some fuse is blown.  The mirror is where the 3 programable controls are located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried with the adaptive mirror darkening turned both on and off.  When it is on, the button between the first and second homelink buttons glows solid green, when the mirror is off this led is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When holding the remote next to the mirror with battery side pointing away from the mirror and holding the remote within 1 to 3 inches of the mirror, I simultaneously hold the button I want to program and the garage door opener down for over 20 seconds, but the led never changes.  Note my garage has a rotating code as I discovered doing the 2006, but I cannot even get to the second step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to reset the homelink and erase everything by holding down programable buttons one and three simultaneously for 20 seconds but not more than 30 per the manual, but again, no LED response as described in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going wrong and how can I get this resolved so that I can successfully program my remote into the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T21:21:13.483" Title="Why doesn't homelink plus programming work as described in the manual?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2012-08-19T22:54:25.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upvoted the PB Blaster.  It's perfect for this situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I'd add is that it's tremendously important to use to the correct tools for these parts: six point flare nut wrenches.  Especially on these underbody parts that have been rusting since the 80's, using regular open end wrenches, or channellocks, or vice-grips or even 12 point box end wrenches is just asking for trouble.  If you're going to work on hydraulic lines, which brake lines are, you need flare nut wrenches.  They make a world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T22:54:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4157" CreationDate="2012-08-19T23:09:16.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a tip from a friend that was also helpful: wet the sand paper and use a wide circular motion over the area with light to medium pressure. Keep dipping the sand paper in the water to remove build up of grit. Repeat with varying degrees of course to fine sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T23:09:16.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4175" CreationDate="2012-08-19T23:16:00.337" Score="4" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that regular petrol (92 octane ULP) from some fuel companies is not good for motorbikes as it is intended for cars only. Is this just an old wives tale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T21:56:16.700" Title="Proper fuel for motorcycles?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4174" CreationDate="2012-08-20T00:35:21.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very untrue. Both car and motorcycle engines are designed for gasoline, and just like cars, using higher-than-specified octane gasoline provides no advantages (unless you're advancing the timing or other modifications, in which case you'll tune for a certain minimum octane).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High compression or forced induction designs (turbos and superchargers) in both cars and motorcycles will require premium, and will specify as such. Most sport bikes are high compression ratio (some as high as 14:1 or higher), and should only be run on premium. This is the same as cars that require premium - you will have lots of engine problems if you bring a turbocharged engine to full boost on regular octane gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - there's no clear rule like 'motorcycles need premium' or anything of the sort. The manufacturer will specify a minimum octane, don't go below it. Going above doesn't hurt, but doesn't do anything for you either so you're wasting money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat:&lt;/strong&gt; if you're a tuner, you should know what you're doing and don't need to ask this on SE. If you suspect you've purchased a car or motorcycle that has been tuned (has a chip, powercommander, or advanced timing) you should ask the previous owner if it has higher octane requirements than stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T00:35:21.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-20T03:43:57.020" Score="4" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has been acting up for a while now with the following symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When idling and with the A/C running it will run fine for a few seconds but then the car will sort of shake and the A/C will start blowing warm air and the whole car will act like it wants to turn off (and sometimes will).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires (and was extra careful to make sure the spark plugs were gapped properly). So now I'm thinking it could be the fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: is fuel injector cleaner that you pour into the gas tank worth the money or should I go ahead and take the car to a mechanic? Also, with simple tools at home (no lift, no diagnostic machinery, and only a basic tool kit) is it possible for someone to change the fuel injectors themselves without causing a lot of trouble, or should it be left up to the professionals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2121" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T02:20:38.267" Title="2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser misfiring with A/C" Tags="|fuel-system|chrysler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-20T05:27:18.810" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidently let the battery power cable touch the frame of the car and it sparked. Now my car does not light up dashboard or anything type of power. I tried jumping the car and still no sin of life. I checked the fuses and nothing is blown out. I checked the relays and nothing is blown. Can anybody help? IS it the battery, I just bought this 2 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T09:45:44.493" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T09:45:44.493" Title="2000 Dodge Intrepid electrical problem" Tags="|electrical|battery|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4177" CreationDate="2012-08-20T09:44:38.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the car have a big &quot;master fuse&quot; somewhere in the engine bay? If so, that is probably your culprit... There may also be a second fuse box in the engine bay as well as the main one in the cabin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a multimeter, a decent battery should put out just over 12v when the car is switched off, however I doubt that a quick short like the one you describe would ruin the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T09:44:38.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4176" CreationDate="2012-08-20T14:57:44.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't sound like fuel injectors at all. My first to suspects are the IAC (Idle Air Control) and the AC compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the AC work fine otherwise? When not at idle. If so I am leaning more toward the IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer on the car maintains idle speed by opening and closing a small air passage with a stepper motor. When you turn on the AC and put the car under more of a load the IAC should open up to compensate for the additional load. The passage may be clogged, or the motor may be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would remove the IAC and clean the passages, and the throttle plates with carburetor cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T14:57:44.353" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2012-08-20T15:18:50.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are following the instructions and you have checked all the fuses I would take it to the dealer and let them diagnose it. It sounds like you have a problem with the system in the car that will likely require replacement of the homelink module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T15:18:50.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4188" CreationDate="2012-08-20T16:40:35.570" Score="3" ViewCount="8902" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key in my 2010 Chevy HHR automatic will not turn back to the OFF position. It is stuck in the RUN position with the car on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this problem?  How can I shut off the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T17:48:22.600" Title="What to do if 2010 Chevy HHR key is stuck in run position?" Tags="|ignition|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4181" CreationDate="2012-08-20T17:14:29.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shift out of and back into park a few times, and try to wiggle the shifter around park while you try to turn the key out. This would be the 'usual' reason the key would be stuck in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, try moving the steering wheel slightly, while again trying to back out the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not it, is there a button you need to press to release the key? If so, push it in and out a few times while trying to remove the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these should lock the key between Accessory, Run, and Start though, and none of them should stick it in the On position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's really stuck running, and you can't remove the key, you have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the hood and pull spark plugs until it stalls (or remove the connectors from the coil packs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the hood and pull fuses until it stalls (Main, INJ or Injectors, Head, Fuel or Fuel Pump fuses would all be good candidates). Remember to put them back in the right spots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the hood and pull vacuum lines until it stalls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull fuses from the interior fuse box until it stalls (Ignition, Fuel or Fuel Pump, Run would all be good ones to try)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the MAF sensor if you know where to find it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T17:14:29.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4186" CreationDate="2012-08-20T21:52:13.160" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're getting your car custom wrapped.&#xA;What would be your top concern when hiring someone to do the job?&#xA;This would be a key area to filter when picking a service provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T13:57:16.850" Title="What are your main concerns when getting your car wrapped with custom-patterns?" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4185" CreationDate="2012-08-21T04:39:32.960" Score="3" ViewCount="2460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the sound, just wondering what causes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T09:53:40.777" Title="What causes the &quot;pop&quot; and &quot;burble&quot; noises on overrun?" Tags="|exhaust|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4184" CreationDate="2012-08-21T09:53:40.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One cause of pops is unburnt fuel hitting the exhaust manifold - many engines use fuel to cool the cylinder when you lift off, so this sprayed excess then burns as it hits hot metal in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burble on overrun is usually caused by ignition timing being retarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from those, any valve or gasket leaks could also cause pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T09:53:40.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2012-08-21T13:57:16.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing I look for when I am picking &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; service provider is reputation.  Usually you can find a provider that is recommended by their customers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For custom car wraps I would look for quality of the designs and the wrap itself.  I would also look for durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the application of the wrap, &lt;a href=&quot;http://roadragedesigns.com/installation.html&quot;&gt;http://roadragedesigns.com/installation.html&lt;/a&gt; has some good examples of what to look for. Just as a disclaimer, I'm not trying to recommend them for the install, but the web page has some good pictures of what you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want your wrap to look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T13:57:16.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4189" CreationDate="2012-08-21T15:49:44.423" Score="11" ViewCount="21852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a piece of metal in my tire, leading to a flat.  The mechanic said he could not plug the tire, and that a &quot;hot patch&quot; was required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a hot patch, how is it applied, and when is it required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:06:46.387" Title="What is a hot patch, and how is it done?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4181" CreationDate="2012-08-21T21:35:22.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like there is an open bulletin on the 2010 Chevy HHR.  The sensor that reports whether or not the vehicle is in park (inside the gear shift) can easily break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it into the chevy dealership, they fixed it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T21:35:22.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4187" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:13:56.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used any of these techniques. This is how is was explained to me by an &quot;old guy&quot; who by the way, had never done it either. The shop I worked in had been around for years and we had stuff that was never used. One was the vulcanization kit. Maybe it was an excuse to sell more tires or liability isses. Years ago tires were always patched.The repair was made by &quot;vulcanization&quot;. The process was either chemical,thermal or a combination of both. In the chemical process either two chemicals were mixed and they generated heat or a rubber softening chemical was used to soften the rubber. The thermal method involved a hot metal iron. The patch is clamped in place intil it has set. The end results were all the same, rather than the repair being glued in place the repair was basically a weld with rubber. Maybe with the cost of tires it is gaining popularity again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T10:18:16.247" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T10:18:16.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4191" CreationDate="2012-08-22T04:30:09.990" Score="4" ViewCount="40328" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ECM is dead on my 2003 Toyota Corolla. What are the risks of installing a used ECM? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the ECM need to be reconfigured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard it might have issues passing DEQ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2091" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T10:26:42.267" Title="Installing a used ECM" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2012-08-22T16:53:58.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk in my mind is getting one that does not work.  I'd be nervous about grabbing one from a boneyard, even if they'll replace a dud, going through the work of installing it to find out you've got a bad one would suck.  Getting one from a vendor selling refurbished units with a warranty would be an entirely different deal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as to whether it needs to be reconfigured, possibly not, as long as it comes out of a donor Corolla of the same year with the same powertrain.  Depending on where you get it from, you may or may not know what it has in the way of loaded firmware, but that might not be a problem.  It's possible there was fix issued that requires a hardware change, but I think that's pretty rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose there could be issues with emissions if they're checking a VIN stored in the module against the one on your registration.  Or if you're in California and you don't get a module with some California specific firmware load.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a dealer swap in a new one will eliminate any uncertainties regarding firmware and emissions.  You should get the latest firmware and they'll use your VIN if it's actually stored.  That will be the most expensive route, though.  It's possible there are aftermarket sources that have the capability to bench flash a module before shipping it to you that would take care of all that, but I don't know of any of the top of my head.  It looks like Toyota has made the &lt;a href=&quot;http://classic.artsautomotive.com/ToyotaFlash.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; available to flash the ECM, so, actually, a properly equipped shop can do this, too.  Sounds like there might be some kind of extended warranty on the ECM from the quick bit of forum surfing that I did.  Check into that before you go out of pocket on a replacement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably ought to try and figure out what killed you existing module. If it was killed by some kind of electrical problem, the replacement could suffer the same fate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and in a 2003, I'd think it would be more of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powertrain_control_module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PCM&lt;/a&gt; than an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Control_Module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ECM&lt;/a&gt;.  The difference can be a little fuzzy, but in my mind, if it's controlling the transmission shift points, or would be if the vehicle had an automatic transmission, it's a PCM.  Hmm, looks like Toyota calls it an ECM though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T22:11:26.507" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T22:11:26.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2012-08-22T19:50:28.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually replaced an ECM myself on my '99 Avalon - twice actually. The first time I bought a ECM from a junkyard for about $40 without shipping. I plugged it in and unfortunately it was DOA. Shipped it back and ordered another ECM from a different wrecker. this time it worked fine (thankfully) - although as a relative of mine is an Electrical Engineer I actually had some extra industrial grade tools to diagnose my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But going back to the ECM chip, for me I simply had to plug it into the correct slot. Even though I bought a used chip though, I highly suggest you buy new because with such a critical engine component you really don't want to chance it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to be cost effective, you can even have a trusted mechanic order the part and install it - I don't think this is a job only a dealer can do, and if the mechanic can't directly order the part (which I doubt) then just go to the dealer, have them order, and then bring it to the mechanic. The markups dealers do on even modest repairs is seriously absurd which is why I always try to go to a trusted mechanic when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="891" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T19:50:28.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4195" CreationDate="2012-08-23T01:28:01.110" Score="1" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Sable is having several issues and I can't tell if they are related. The car is driven less than average, three or four days per week. At some point, it lost coolant and I had to add about two quarts a couple weeks ago. The engine is still hot right now, so I'm not sure if it's low at the moment. Another issue is that the speedometer will sometimes drop to 0, seemingly randomly, while driving but will eventually return to a working state. When the speedo starts working again, the car makes a strange noise. The last issue I have noticed is that the car sometimes has an issue accelerating. You can push the car to 5 or 6K RPM but the car will still travel at, say, 15 MPH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2132" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T02:24:24.603" Title="'00 Mercury Sable speedometer and ??? issues" Tags="|speedometer|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2012-08-23T01:51:26.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in this field.  I'm an embedded engineer who writes code for instrument clusters and ECUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECM (or ECU) often have stickers on the back of them denoting both a hardware revision level and software revision level.  I would make sure both those values match the old module you are replacing or that you have some sort of confirmation that the one you are purchasing is backward compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECU/ECM are essentially single board computers specialized to marshall data on &amp;amp; off a CAN or LIN network - some ECUs are apart of a MOST ring.  Depending on what networks (CAN, LIN, MOST, etc...) the hardware &amp;amp; software of the module really determine how compatible the unit will be in your vehicle with other ECUs on the bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T01:51:26.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2012-08-23T02:12:38.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having owned a 97 Taurus which is a Sables cousin a  common problem is the vehicle speed sensor. If the sensor completely fails it is easy to diagnose. Mine slowly failed over a two week period during which time it would shift into nuetral, have eratic speedometer readings,and would shift up or down at odd times or work perfectly fine. The coolant resevoirs are also a high failure item. They develop a leak at the bottom so it makes it difficult to add coolant. When I replaced the coolant tank a new one at the dealer was $3.00 more than the salvage yard wanted for a used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T02:24:24.603" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T02:24:24.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4453" CreationDate="2012-08-23T11:43:00.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the description of my problem occurring on my Skoda Fabia 1.4 MPI car, built in 2003:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The green dashboard cluster illumination (that illuminates the speedo, rev counter, time and miles) is fully illuminated when I turn the lights on while not in ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The green dashboard cluster illumination becomes very dim (but stays on) when I turn on the ignition, or start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dashboard warning lights (ie: battery indicator) work perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Almost none of the cockpit guidance lights work (ie: charger, temperature control dials, electric windows). The notable exception is that the guidance light on the light switch dial (next to the dimmer) does work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The light dimmer has no effect whatsoever on anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My external lights seem to work fine always, as do the curtesy internal lights (ie: the bright white light above the centre console, and the bright white light in the boot).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, the festoon-based number plate lights at the back of my car do not work, at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above, does anyone have any idea whatsoever as to how I could solve this problem? I wonder if it is the reason why I've recently had to purchase a new battery despite the fact that I had already bought and installed one myself half a year ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a bonus oddity: If I turn the lights on without ignition, and someone closes or opens a door, then the green dashboard cluster illumination temporarily dims and then, after half a second, returns to being fully illuminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T01:40:38.047" Title="Can these problems be blamed on a faulty dimmer switch in a 2003 Skoda Fabia 1.4 MPI (AQW)?" Tags="|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4203" CreationDate="2012-08-23T13:25:01.137" Score="9" ViewCount="14454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are several questions on here about finding the source of a battery drain (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/91/battery-drains-by-itself-when-vehicle-is-parked-parasitic-draw&quot;&gt;Battery drains by itself when vehicle is parked (parasitic draw)&lt;/a&gt; ).  However I don't think the answers address my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally when I go to use my car in the morning, it will have a dead battery.  Because it is an intermittent problem (on the order of once every couple of months), it's no surprise that mechanics find nothing when doing an overnight draw test.  That is to say that the problem has never occurred when the car is in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I have not left the lights on on the nights that the battery drains.  I can't rule out any similarly stupid mistake, but at least its not the lights.  Also, we tried the simple step of replacing the battery about 6 months ago.  The load tests done by various mechanics never implicated the battery, but we did it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what strategies should I use to &lt;strong&gt;track down an intermittent battery draining draw&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T14:33:46.027" Title="How to track down an intermittent battery drain?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-23T18:22:19.047" Score="2" ViewCount="3612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Nissan Altima SE with a manual transmission. The clutch was completely replaced about 7k miles ago. I bought the car about 5k miles ago. At around 2-3k miles ago is when the problems started. At first, once in awhile, I would notice very minor resistance going into 2nd gear only when the car was cold. By Minor I mean a very small and quiet &quot;crunch&quot;, or like a split second grind. It would disappear very quickly, maybe after around a couple of minutes. This slowly worsened. Then probably somewhere around 1.5k miles ago, again only while the car was cold, I would hear a whining kind of noise whenever I accelerated fast in 1st and 2nd gear (I don't mean pedal to the floor) or if I had it sitting at lower rpms for cruising in town and put the pedal down it would do it also (like 3rd gear going ~20-25mph, probably around 1700rpm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, 1st gear once in awhile puts up a minor fuss like 2nd gear first did, and 2nd gear is at a pretty decent grind when shifting into it while its cold. 2nd gear will do this longer now too, pretty much until the car is fully warmed up. &#xA;This is what I have gathered so far (feel free to correct me if I am wrong anywhere, I'm not saying that these are right or even make complete sense):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend, who was an auto tech, says the whine is from low transmission fluid. Which would make sense with the temp issue because once the fluid heated up and was circulated/distributed better the parts would be lubed up better. But I am nearly 100% positive it is not leaking, because I have multiple times placed pieces of cardboard underneath after driving to catch any drips, and haven't caught a single one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem that makes sense would be the clutch dragging. If that were the case then the syncros would be worn down and the tranny could heat up enough to start burning the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to check the filler plug in a few hours to see where the fluid level is. So can anyone throw me any ideas/suggestions? Anything will help. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause of the shifting problems was from low and burnt tranny fluid. As to why it is low I have no idea. It was changed roughly 8k miles ago. I couldn't catch any drips coming down either. &#xA;I do now know that my syncros are brass and because of that my car requires gl4 gear oil. Gl5 eats away at yellow metals and will wreck my syncros. So I suppose it is a possibility that the dealer just didn't care and threw in gl5.&#xA;I will update my answer and mark this question as answered when I bring my car in and find out what caused the condition of the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:35:45.460" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:35:45.460" Title="Altima Clutch and/or Transmission Problems" Tags="|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4126" CreationDate="2012-08-24T13:13:31.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto start/stop requires design changes to the starter, flywheel, solenoid, charging system, among other things. A traditional starter isn't rated for the duty cycle that a start/stop system requires. The flywheel and starter are also changed do that the engine can start faster. The solenoid has a higher duty cycle. The charging system has to be designed to run the electrical systems for longer with the alternator being offline and also intelligently monitor the condition of the battery to know it'd charge level and health accurately to guarantee enough juice to run the starter. Plus other non-trivial changes to the fuel delivery system to slow for fatter shutdown and startup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this adds up to be too much to put in to an aftermarket system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T13:13:31.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4126" CreationDate="2012-08-24T15:53:20.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of an aftermarket system out there currently. But it wouldn't be that difficult to do. General Motor's &quot;Green Line&quot; Hybrids have removed the starter and replaced the alternator with a generator/starter much like some older farm tractors. The have a 36 volt battery to handle the additional power requirements for starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some additional things you will have to overcome, like your AC not working with the engine off, modifying the programing on fuel delivery. Again it's should be doable from an aftermarket standpoint, just has they have the propane or CNG conversions that can be done to a gas car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T15:58:28.680" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:58:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4197" CreationDate="2012-08-24T16:26:15.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could set up a low voltage relay in-line on the battery ground cable (obviously only for when parked at night). Even a small current from an activated circuit (like the door light) should cause the relay to trip. Use the relay to turn on an alarm so you can go see what's causing the draining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a relay, a flashlight lightbulb wired in series with the ground cable will do the same thing, show when current is flowing. A multimeter is more sensitive, but you have to watch it carefully. It will always register a few milliamps to keep the radio stations set but if it goes up, you will know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to take some testing with a multimeter to tell how much voltage will develop during small current draws, but it's probably at least 10 watts to drain a healthy battery overnight during the summer. Use the dome light to calibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to use this method last year and the culprit was the remote locking system picking up my wife's keys somehow and activating the lock solenoid all night long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T16:26:15.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2012-08-24T16:35:05.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need about 25 feet of clear vinyl aquarium air hose and a screwdriver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the aquarium hose in half to make two lengths. Use each to make a water manometer to balance each pair of carbs (left pair and right pair). Then balance the inner pair and the outer pair using the same method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.natenewz.com/2010/06/13/carburetor-tuning-with-diy-manometer/&quot;&gt;http://www.natenewz.com/2010/06/13/carburetor-tuning-with-diy-manometer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In action&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxkwZ-NDsVs&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxkwZ-NDsVs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More complicated but smaller system:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PiQBr20kM8&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PiQBr20kM8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T16:35:05.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2539" CreationDate="2012-08-24T16:38:28.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They may have replaced the vacuum solenoids but it sounds like the wastegate still isn't opening smoothly. If you can see the wastegate, apply vacuum slowly to the vacuum line and see if it moves smoothly through it's motion, especially when initially opening. If not, it probably still needs cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under acceleration it needs the boost, but under constant drive it should be opening and closing that a tiny bit as it runs but if it can't it will increase vacuum, then it snaps open, dumps boost, then releases vacuum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T16:38:28.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2499" CreationDate="2012-08-24T16:44:19.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vacuum will range from very little (1-2 inches of Hg) when wide open throttle to 10-12 in Hg when choked and throttle closes at medium RPM. What's much more important is how steady the vacuum is. At constant throttle it shouldn't change more than 2-3 in Hg. If it does, look for a bad reed valve or leaks in the crank case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those little tiny motors often develop crank case leaks around the carb base, the reed base and internal to the carb. If there is a priming bulb on the carb check it's base as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T16:44:19.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4211" CreationDate="2012-08-24T18:26:24.993" Score="3" ViewCount="150899" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a pump that runs when the car is on to pressurize the hydraulics, right?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bleeding the brakes, should the car be on or off so this pump is on or off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically talking about a Honda '03 if that affects the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2141" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T02:25:34.610" Title="Bleeding Brakes with Car on or off?" Tags="|honda|brakes|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4208" CreationDate="2012-08-24T22:05:10.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only pump that runs would be for the ABS system. If you are trying to bleed that system (ABS) you would need to make the pump run, if you are just bleeding the base brakes you would not need the pump to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example you changed a caliper and you need to bleed the brakes then no need to make the pump run. If however you were changing the ABS modulator you would need to make the pump run as well as take some additional steps in the bleeding procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification based on @Ehryk's comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda uses an ABS motor to pressurize the accumulator in the ABS system. Factory bleeding procedures for the ABS system and for brake fluid replacement both require the motor to be run  at specific points in the bleeding procedure. The can be done by starting the engine and letting it run for a minute or so, or by hooking up a computer to the car and commanding the motor to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUf7-YDEpDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a  video on Youtube&lt;/a&gt; explaining the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info &lt;a href=&quot;http://3carsz.com/brake-system/abs-brake-fluid-replacement_58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; although it's for an earlier model car. I think the 2003 has the motor mounted directly to the modulator assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T19:45:26.973" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T19:45:26.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4208" CreationDate="2012-08-25T10:26:45.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you meant was bleeding the brakes at the calipers to remove air from the system, you should bleed the brakes with the car off. While 'pump' was the wrong word to use, the brake booster runs off the engine vacuum (it's a large diaphragm that multiplies brake force), and this should not be active. You can feel the difference by pumping the brakes a few times with the car off, then pushing with a medium effort on the brake pedal while starting; once the engine starts, the same effort will sink the pedal further and put more force on the hydraulics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you bleed brakes, you want to have an assistant push the brake pedal while you crack open the line and then close it BEFORE the pedal hits the floor (or you'll introduce air into the caliper). If the engine is running, not only is this unsafe (front axles can spin, hitting your hands if the front is in the air or moving off the stands if the rear is up), but it drastically changes the pressure at which the fluid will shoot out of the calipers and shrink the time to close the bleeder screw before the pedal hits the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: Bleed brakes (at the calipers) with the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T19:58:11.400" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T19:58:11.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T17:45:04.467" Score="17" ViewCount="124465" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars have a display for &lt;em&gt;outside temperature&lt;/em&gt;, and I have been wondering how it was measured...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, where exactly is the sensor and how reliable is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1597" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:05:37.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T20:14:58.153" Title="How is &quot;outside temperature&quot; measured in a car?" Tags="|temperature|instrument|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T18:50:36.690" Score="3" ViewCount="27445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen around a few threads by the business that created &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dux-tj-djNo&amp;amp;feature=plcp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. They supply (supplied?) kits to replace the surface of car interior buttons (radio, climate control, etc) that have become worn. I have tried to find where I can buy from them since but hardly anything comes up and that that does (eBay) is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A. The graphics kit described in the above video?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or failing that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B. A standard set of decals that I can place over resprayed buttons? (preferably for specific brands of car)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a 2002 A4 which is suffering the 'peeling rubberised paint' issue. Rubberised paint that matches the interior perfectly is available for spraying the buttons, but I can't find anyone supplying the graphics for after that - whether templates or simple 'stick ons'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="546" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T04:32:43.103" Title="Where can I get button graphics/decals for car interior (preferably for specific models)?" Tags="|paint|audi|interior|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2012-08-27T00:03:44.503" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the outside temperature sensor is located under the front of the hood near the bottom of the car.  Although the sensor itself is accurate, the location causes the sensor to pick up heat from the road surface.  Thus, it will usually read several degrees higher than the air temperature.  This is especially noticeable when driving on high speed highways for which the road surface not only picks up heat from the sun but from car tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T00:03:44.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4223" CreationDate="2012-08-27T03:02:28.553" Score="5" ViewCount="18077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Mazda 3 car with a semi-automatic transmission (i.e. it is automatic with the ability to switch to a manual mode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the weekend, it was driven by somebody else who accidentally put it into manual mode without realising.  They drove it for about 100 metres, probably not getting far above 40 km/h.  It would have revved a bit in this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They noticed their error fairly quickly and pulled over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the likelihood that this would have caused any damage?  I have driven the car since, and also looked under the bonnet and everything sounds okay and the car is driving just as it did before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that most modern cars have rev limiters which prevent damage - is this just to prevent damage to the engine, transmission or both?  Would that help in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T13:44:06.453" Title="Semi-automatic car inadvertently driven in manual mode" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2012-08-27T05:20:27.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's doubtful that any damage was done. The rev limiter should have prevented any damage from occurring to the engine and driving in a lower gear won't hurt the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T05:20:27.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2012-08-27T09:34:45.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies a lot, but in general it is placed somewhere where it will get as accurate a reading as possible - avoiding engine heat etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most of mine it has been low down behind the front bumper, but I did have one car that had the sensor below the driver's door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misplacement may lead to the effect @Barry pointed out, but in any case, many are calibratable, and the real uses for them are to indicate when you are approaching extremely hot or cold conditions (which could require a change in behaviour or fluids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T09:34:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2012-08-27T09:58:37.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A proper thermometer setup is shielded from sunlight, several metres away from any heat source (eg: concrete, car engine, metal/glass that's been sitting in the sun), and a raised a couple of metres off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in a car will ever be accurate, no matter how hard they try. There are just too many variables, especially when you think about sitting in traffic with engine heat radiating out the bottom of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should assume the reading is out by at least 5°F, and possibly 10°F or even more. Usually the real temperature will be lower than the reading but I wouldn't rely on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://weathercurrents.com/NewsItemDisplay.do?Id=267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://weathercurrents.com/NewsItemDisplay.do?Id=267&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T09:58:37.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2012-08-27T10:09:14.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax mate, you didn't cause any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cars, even really old ones, have got rev limiters and you would know if you'd hit it. The engine basically stalls then fires up then stalls over and over several times a second — lots of loud noises and the car might even jerk around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Semi-automatic&quot; cars like the one you're driving usually never hit the rev limiter, since they also have a computer in the gearbox that automatically shifts up to the next gear. Even when you're in &quot;manual&quot; mode it will usually shift if necessary to avoid engine excessively high or low revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you did hit the rev limiter you really can't do any damage, especially with any car made in the last 15 years or so. Worst you can do is waste a bit of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hitting the rev limiter several times a day is not advisable - It will cause some parts to wear out slightly faster than they otherwise would. But once or twice? Even once a month? It's not going to cause any appreciable wear on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: 40km/h is pretty slow. You should be able to travel almost twice that speed  without hitting either the rev limiter or the automatic upshift (every car is different however - the only Mazda 3 I've driven was a manual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you go out and experiment a bit! Find an &lt;em&gt;empty&lt;/em&gt; country road, stick it in manual mode, and mash your foot to the floor all the way up to the speed limit. If it shifts up for you, then you know you don't have to worry about it. If it doesn't shift up and you hit the rev limiter... well, hitting it once in a blue moon doesn't hurt anything. Racing car drivers hit the rev limiter several times every minute, and they're driving highly tuned fragile engines - not the rock solid reliable engine in a Mazda 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things to watch out for... pushing the engine hard should be done when the engine is warm, not cold. So make sure it's been running for 3 or 4 minutes first. Keep an eye on the engine temperature and for any warning lights on the dashboard. Finally, don't let it stay on the rev limiter for any longer than you need to. A couple seconds is fine, several seconds is bad, not hitting it at all is ideal — but you cannot avoid hitting it unless you know where it is!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't like driving a car unless I know what it's doing. And that includes knowing what will happen if I bump the lever into the wrong position. Surprises in traffic are highly distracting, and that leads to accidents. Safety first, money second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastEditorUserId="2147" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T10:29:55.483" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T10:29:55.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4218" CreationDate="2012-08-27T13:44:06.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard that most modern cars have rev limiters which prevent&#xA;  damage - is this just to prevent damage to the engine, transmission or&#xA;  both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rev limiter is there to protect the engine, often to prevent problems caused by the transmission (or the human operator's use thereof).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would that help in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it would but no, it wasn't necessary.  In this case, it doesn't sound like the driver came close to the redline.  40 kph isn't fast even in first gear.  What's more likely is that the driver got scared when things got loud and stayed loud, stopped, checked the selector and fixed their error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T13:44:06.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4225" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:40:23.783" Score="4" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went on a 10000k road trip, and accumulated a lot of insect remains on my vehicle.  After several car washes, one of them that even included a bug spray before you entered the main wash, and doing some hand washing, there is still insect gunk on my vehicle!  It's mostly on the bumper, the windshield was much easier to clean.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best product or method to use then removing insect gunk from a car?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2150" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T08:40:28.283" Title="What can i use to get insect/bug remains off my vehicle?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2012-08-27T17:47:12.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few methods, but remember, that if the bugs have been there for a while, the acidic content of the bugs might just have ruined the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a light scouring pad, like a “000” steel wool, to slowly and carefully shave off layers of the bug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray WD 40 on the bug, let sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then wash off with soapy water and a cloth. Remember not to use this method on glass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrub Coca Cola on the bug with a cloth, let sit 30 seconds, then scrub off with a dry cloth. For safety of the paint, use soapy water and a cloth to wash the Coca Cola off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip a dryer sheet / fabric softener sheet in water and wipe the bug off with the sheet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same method as #4, but drop a dryer sheet / fabric softener sheet in warm water in a spray bottle (about a quarter full), spray on the bug and use another dryer sheet to wipe the bug off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Sponge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, maybe it's time for a single edge razor and a new paint job :( pesky bugs are pesky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T17:47:12.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4227" CreationDate="2012-08-27T22:58:25.350" Score="3" ViewCount="2901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will 185/75R14 tires do the job on a 2001 Toyota Corolla? Stock size is 185/65R14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2151" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T11:40:47.770" Title="Tire Sizing: 2001 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4226" CreationDate="2012-08-28T11:40:47.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They might fit but your speedometer will be significantly off and you will feel like you've lost a lot of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire Rack (as always) has a lot of useful technical reference information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=46&quot;&gt;sidewall markings&lt;/a&gt;.  The sidewall aspect ratio is the measurement in question.  That represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the section width (the footprint).  So, if we look at both tire sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock sidewall = 185 millimeters * 0.65 = 120.25 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New sidewall = 185 mm * 0.75 = 138.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a difference of about 18 mm (or about 3/4 of an inch) at the sidewall.  Remember, that's a radial measure: your total tire would now be an additional 36 mm or about 1.5 inches across.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to figure out if things fit, you need to inspect your wheel well.  Do you have enough clearance for the tires to roll?  What if the steering wheel is at its lock: still enough clearance?  What if you hit a bump?  Is there enough suspension travel that things are going to rub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you're going to have to accept that this is going to cause your speedometer to read significantly low.  The rolling circumference will go up by something like 20 - 30% so your speedo will be low by about that much.  You'll also have to accept that you're giving up a lot of mechanical advantage: the car will feel much slower from a stoplight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Personally, I wouldn't do this.  You may have different goals, though.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T11:40:47.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4413" CreationDate="2012-08-28T12:56:48.063" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Jeep Grande Cherokee 1998 runs perfectly fine for about 6 miles (Or 15 minutes), and then starts to slowly at first, and more frequently later, have a behavior where it sounds like a high frequency to lower frequency sound lasting about 3 seconds, followed by a click, followed by 10 seconds of normal behavior, and a repeat. It seems to stop doing this after 3-4 times, then repeat after a minute of normal behavior. It also seems to improve slightly when stopped at a stoplight or other similar thing. When the click happens, there is a dragging to the left. The car is drivable, but it is more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on with the vehicle, and what can be done to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T00:20:52.677" Title="Jeep Grande Cherokee clicking when warm" Tags="|jeep|noise|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4231" CreationDate="2012-08-28T18:42:19.727" Score="3" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife just bought a new Subaru Outback with leather seats. We said &quot;no&quot; at that point in the transaction when they try to sell you $1000 of interior / exterior protection, but now we are faced with doing some protection ourselves, especially of the interior and especially of the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations as to how to seal or protect these brand new leather seats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1479" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T00:14:51.640" Title="Recommendations as to how to seal or protect brand new leather seats?" Tags="|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:46:35.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had very good luck with the type of  kitchen sponge/scrubber made for teflon pans. It is wrapped in a nylon mesh that takes off bugs and pinesap but is gentle on the paint. Spray or wipe on any Bug and Tar remover from the auto parts store. Do small area at a time. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes in the shade before scrubbing. Rinse the sponge often to keep from smearing it around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T20:46:35.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2012-08-29T00:14:51.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the seats clean and use a good leather conditioner on the parts of the seats that are actually leather so it doesn't dry out. Don't bother with &quot;protective&quot; chemicals, just look after the seats. Japanese leather seats are generally fairly well sealed anyway, so putting more sealant on top isn't going to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;keep them clean&quot; part is probably the most important one - grinding dirt and dust that gets on the seats in is what is going to do the most damage in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T00:14:51.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4237" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:57:09.953" Score="3" ViewCount="37108" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a very simple question, but I was just poking around the engine bay and checking the fluid levels of the various reservoirs.  I then opened the brake fluid one and I remember reading that be very careful not to get any air into the brake lines and will need bleeding if that occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So am I worrying about nothing or should I be planning on bleeding my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2076" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T08:46:55.217" Title="Simple Question: Do I need to bleed brakes if I removed the blake fluid cap?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2012-08-29T02:22:25.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most conversions fall into three types. A direct replacement from a similar vehicle maybe a later year that came with discs. A system transplant from a factory equiped vehicle not necessarily the same brand. A complete custom sytem from an aftermarket source.The pros are the same obvious reasons new vehicles come with disc brakes.They self adjust, they stop better, they don't fade under hard use like a drum does, repairs are easier and more reliable. The cons of a conversion are, will you remember what the donor vehicle was five years from now when you need parts, if you are far from home and break down the parts may not be readily available. You can get Mustang brakes anywhere but try to find a Wilwood caliper locally on a Saturday night. As far a four wheel versus two wheel disc all the advantages carry to the rear as well. I can't speak for Toyota but I know the factory GM drum wheels would not fit over a disc caliper. Most aftermarket kits are performance systems with large rotors that require at least a 16&quot; wheel, you might avoid this if you can use a stock system from a donor vehicle that had 15&quot; wheels. Also most conversions use the bolt pattern of the donor vehicle. If isn't a Toyota donor car your wheels most likely won't fit. Unless it is a concourse quality restoration most people will approve of the discs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T02:22:25.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4026" CreationDate="2012-08-29T02:48:21.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the coolant level and antifreeze concentration. Anything above 50/50 can make the engine run hot because the more antifreeze the less heat absorbtion. Make sure the fan shroud is in place. Taking out the thermostat can make the engine run hot because the coolant flows thru the radiator so fast it can't disapate the heat. Warm the engine up with the radiator cap off. Look into the radiator you should see coolant flowing thru the radiator. If the flow seems slow suspect a bad waterpump impeller or a clogged radiator. In 1995 most of the emission controls relied on some kind of vacum hose. Small vacum leaks can cause a lean condition and make the engine run warm. Some of the hoses are only active or have vacum when the engine is warm. Check the hoses, where most leaks occur is at the connection point and at sharp bends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T10:26:12.023" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T10:26:12.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2012-08-29T06:08:17.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience (which is on older cars and motorcycles), no - you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is true that air in the brake lines is bad news, so if you had a leak somewhere along a line or at the bottom or the reservoir thats drawing air in along with fluid that would necessitate a bleed. But since you just opened it from the top it should be fine. Just ensure the lid is back on securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T06:08:17.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2012-08-29T08:46:55.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not. The reservoir holds 'the excess' brake fluid, and bubbles in the reservoir will float to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to bleed the brakes, however, if you had taken the reservoir off and/or drained it completely and pushed the brake pedal. This would include if you had a leak and one (or both) sides of the reservoir was completely empty. 'Air in the lines' only is a problem once the air is past the master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just taking the top off to inspect/add brake fluid does not necessitate bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T08:46:55.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2012-08-29T13:17:06.620" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to keeping the recommended oil change schedule, here's a quick-and-dirty way to evaluate oil quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab the dip stick and run it through your fingers to get them oily. Spread the oil on your fingers and observe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transparent, honey-like colour, no visible sediments, nice greasy feeling? You are good to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transparent, dark-brown to black, no sediments? Consider changing the oil soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Murky, sediment-y, dark black? Change ASAP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines running on flexifuel/ethanol (aka E85) can preserve the oil longer due to cleaner combustion, and it would normally have lighter colour than a comparable gasoline engine at the same mileage after the last oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T13:17:06.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-29T14:21:52.030" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 68 Mustang straight 6 1 BBL carb, 3 speed manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed the other day that when driving at constant speed that the car hesitates (like I am letting off and pressing down on the gas pedal).  It accelerates just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No RPM gauge in car.  When ever it is a constant speed, through city streets doing 35 or on the highway doing 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, being an old car - where are the most likely problems areas - fuel pump? Coil? improper point gap? vacuum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2156" LastEditorUserId="2156" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T14:47:54.713" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T21:24:29.750" Title="68 Mustang hesitates at constant speeds" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|mustang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4239" CreationDate="2012-08-29T15:38:35.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Points would be the first thing I would check. It sounds like the ignition is breaking down i.e. not enough spark getting to the plugs. The next thing to check is the wires. If you have access to an ignition scope or a Kv meter it can make the diagnosis easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling the plugs and inspecting them can give you more clues &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/649/85&quot;&gt;see my answer here&lt;/a&gt; for help on diagnosing based on the plugs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T15:48:07.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2012-08-29T20:12:32.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scanner you have might not be able to read non-active codes. Some of the auto parts chains will do a scan for free. Have them check for codes your scanner might not recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T20:12:32.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2012-08-29T20:23:11.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Later model 40 series does have front discs, but as far as I know you will need brackets welded for holding the calipers. You'll loose your parking brake, so you have to think about that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that TSM have a kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tsmmfg.com/1590.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for the front&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tsmmfg.com/toyotatruckrear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2 others for the rear&lt;/a&gt; that don't require welding, but I never read feedback for thoses kits. They claims that the 15&quot; wheel will fit over the new setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option have seen is to switch to a 60 series axles (front disc and rear drums).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forgot to buy the right sized master cylinder and brake booster for your new application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/60607-rear-disc-brake-info.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a thread on IH8MUD that talk about disk brake swap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for #4, I do love stock Land Cruiser (I own a stock HJ60), but if you are looking to sell it to a purist or to go to show with that truck, keep everything stock as possible. Otherwise it's yours, so you do what you want!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T20:23:11.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4244" CreationDate="2012-08-29T23:20:19.413" Score="11" ViewCount="22021" Body="&lt;p&gt;So leaving work yesterday I heard a clang! - the muffler simply fell off. Further inspection revealed a lot of rust in one particular area on the pipe. Thankfully the forward muffler is still intact so the car isnt that loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: would it still be safe to drive (to go to the shop to get new parts) with the exhaust coming out underneath the car (break is somewhere underneath the boot/trunk)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be a bit overly cautious but would heat from the open exhaust effect the fuel tank some how?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T00:36:36.523" Title="Muffler off car. Safe to drive with exhaust open underneath?" Tags="|exhaust|fuel-tank|safety|muffler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4243" CreationDate="2012-08-30T00:34:49.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will likely be annoyingly loud but otherwise fine.  As always, you are liable for your own compliance with local noise ordinances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you drive with the windows up until you give the car to the shop in order to avoid any risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.  For example, don't drive with the trunk propped open: the low pressure behind the car will trap a bunch of exhaust back there and you don't want it coming into the car with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk is pretty low but you'll feel better if you're already concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that the tank will notice any increase in temperature: it's used to being in the vicinity of hot metal carrying exhaust fumes.  Now it's just going to experience the fumes directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When I replaced my muffler some years back, I started the car with the muffler off and was seriously tempted to drive around making a huge racket without any concern about exhaust fumes.  My son convinced me that we'd get into too much trouble.  He did agree that it sounded glorious, though....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T00:34:49.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4243" CreationDate="2012-08-30T00:36:36.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to worry about the fuel tank, though use good judgement here: if the trunk feels hotter than the sun, I wouldn't risk driving around. I think my main concern would be exhaust gases getting into the cabin and making you too whoozy to drive safely. Open windows and a short drive should alleviate this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T00:36:36.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2012-08-30T13:36:47.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple thoughts on things to check are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing idle air controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticking EGR valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T13:36:47.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2012-08-30T17:08:05.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't lose e-brake as it is located on driveshaft.  Nice feature of FJ-40.  With front hubs locked you get 4-wheel e-braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T17:08:05.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2012-08-31T09:05:09.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for people like you (and me) there is a lubrication testing device:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lubricheck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lubricheck.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T09:05:09.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2012-08-31T12:42:17.737" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, everyone who said that the braking effect comes from the compression stroke is wrong...the air in the cylinder is compressed which takes energy, yet after top dead center acts as a spring and helps force the piston back down, returning the exact same force as was put into it in the first place. Probably more, actually, since the compression heats the air charge up and causes it to expand, like a very minor version of a power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the braking effect comes from the INTAKE stroke, from the engine drawing air through the closed off throttle-body. It's like trying to suck air through a tiny straw. Braking is from vacuum, not compression. That and a bit of engine friction, which is less significant with modern engines than it used to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using engine braking, using it mildly for keeping speed on downhills isn't really bad for your car. I'd avoid driving like a rally racer and aggressively downshifting to slow down for every turn or stoplight, but when done right, it doesn't effect anything any differently than driving normally. Yes, it causes more engine revs, but they are no worse than the revs you get accelerating onto an on ramp. If you're planning to keep the car for 250,000 miles, yeah, you might want to keep the revs to a minimum, but otherwise, assuming nothing is wrong with the motor itself, the car will be done-for long before you wear the engine out by adding revs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies for the clutch...yes, every time you use it, it wears a little, but no differently than using it during normal driving. If you're worried enough about the clutch that you try to keep your car in one gear as much as possible, sure, avoid engine braking. But if you're like most people, you use the clutch 5 times every time you get up to speed, two or three times every time you leave a stoplight. A few more engagments isn't a big deal. And you don't always have to use the clutch; often you just have to let off the gas and leave it engaged and it will work to slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will add some wear and tear to the drive train, but like the above, you could consider it the same as driving an extra half-mile every day, only without the fuel cost. If that wouldn't scare you, neither should engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that wears out differently is, as the other poster said, the rear faces of the gear teeth, and that really doesn't matter. You use them every time you back up, the rest of the time they do nothing. IF they should wear significantly, the only effect will be that the transmission will be louder when your reverse. And you'd have to put a lot of wear and tear on them to get them that worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2161" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T16:01:33.123" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T16:01:33.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2012-08-31T13:47:30.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kilometers that can be driven on different base oils&#xA;-Mineral based oils have a potential to last for any way between 3000-5000km,&#xA;-Semi-synthetic can last for 7000-9000km,&#xA;-Paraffin based and synthetic based oils can easily last for 15,000-20,000km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this all depends on:-&#xA;-The temperature of the country, &#xA;-Kilometers covered in a stretch,&#xA;-Driving conditions&#xA;-The time for which your car is stagnant. &#xA;-Engine capacity.&#xA;This all is mentioned for cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for visual checks&#xA;-You should check the oil levels on the dip stick,&#xA;-And as mentioned by 'mindcorrosive' the colored and the viscosity can tell you the condition of the oil. The darker and less viscous the oil gets you know its time to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips&#xA;-Change the oil when the engine is a comparatively hot, helps to drain the oil easily but be careful not to damage the threading on the oil drain nut.&#xA;-Change the oil filter with every oil change.&#xA;-If metal filings are found in the oil you have a big problem, similarly if less oil is drained out.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2160" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T13:47:30.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-31T15:41:14.050" Score="2" ViewCount="1568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pontiac Vibe, and the top clip of the rear door panel (that goes around the wheel well) has become unattached.   This panel serves as trim for the door.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to go about getting it on without breaking it.  Do I need to remove the entire panel?  What tools would a mechanic use to attach it?  As of right now, I'm just driving around with it hanging off.  It doesn't really look like it's loose unless you take a close look, since the panel is still attached in all other areas of the door.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2150" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T08:09:57.733" Title="How do I re-attach a trim panel that has partially popped off?" Tags="|pontiac|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-01T11:35:48.333" Score="4" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Hyundai Accent Executive is 2001 model. Recently the engine started misfiring badly during idling with Air conditioner on. It is almost like the engine is going to turn off any moment. The condition is little better when AC is off. Few days ago, AC went offline and the misfire vanished, though it could be noticed every now and then. There was a fuse problem which cut off the power supply to AC clutch. The fuse was replaced and the problem came back. I could see that there is electrical problem but we could not pinpoint the problem area. The spark plugs are new, the injectors are cleaned and still the problem is persisting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2163" LastEditorUserId="2163" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T02:09:53.663" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T09:10:02.310" Title="Misfiring Engine Hyundai Accent Executive" Tags="|engine|electrical|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4255" CreationDate="2012-09-01T19:39:50.870" Score="19" ViewCount="26163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my car (2000 Mercury Grand Marquis) started sounding like a racecar: the engine became very loud.  There's clearly something going wrong with the exhaust system.  I'm trying to understand the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a peek under the car, and I think I've identified the issue, but I don't know enough to  say for certain.  One of the connections in the exhaust pipes seems to have come loose.  Could this be the root of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e71yO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken exhaust pipe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, the pipe's brother appears in much better shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOXUU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T00:13:14.487" Title="Is this what is making my car sound like a racecar?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|exhaust|noise|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4253" CreationDate="2012-09-02T00:44:06.690" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, at least half of the exhaust is coming straight out of that gap without passing through the muffler.  As you've noted, this leads to an increase in noise (or music, depending on your taste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my eye, that looks like a hassle to fix on your own.  There appears to be the rusted remnants of two bolts holding the Y-pipe to the passenger side muffler and perhaps the merest wisp of a gasket remaining.  I suspect that you're going to have to cut and drill out those old rusted bolts just to disengage the two pipes.  A repair will either require those old bolts out, clear holes, clean mating surfaces, a new gasket, new bolts and lots of anti-seize.  None of that is expensive but it's something of a drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've been thinking about an aftermarket exhaust system, this might be a good time to make a purchase.  I'd suggest looking for a system that includes both pipes leading to the mufflers and the Y-pipe leading back from the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture summarizes nicely why I like stainless steel in all exhaust components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T00:44:06.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3753" CreationDate="2012-09-02T11:30:36.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some models, the aux socket (3.5mm stereo) is next to the cigarette lighter under a flap. Took me ages to find too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2165" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T11:30:36.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4259" CreationDate="2012-09-02T19:14:21.053" Score="9" ViewCount="8553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 VW Dasher with its original speakers but no radio.  It has an unusual (erroneous?) electrical configuration where most accessories (e.g. lights, cabin fan, etc) still run even with the ignition switched off and key removed (I've heard that's just how old VWs work, but never confirmed that).  This results in the problem that installing any aftermarket radio or amplifier will run the battery down if I connect it in the conventional way.  So 2 related issues here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I don't really want a radio.  I'd actually be just fine with some sort of simple, low-power amplifier that can drive the speakers, which I could plug a smartphone or something into (like with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector&quot;&gt;TRS&lt;/a&gt; connector or whatever) to play music and whatnot.  Has anyone had any success doing something like that?  What kinds of products should I look for?  Right now I don't even know what such a thing would be called.  &quot;Amplifier&quot; encompasses too many different products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I need to put my own toggle switch into this system somehow, so I can switch the radio/amp off when I'm not using it, and avoid running down the car's battery.  How should I approach wiring this?  I'd like to avoid breaking out any books on Electrical Engineering right now, and hopefully just accomplish the mission with the bare minimum of knowledge (I'm assuming the people who install car stereos don't necessarily know everything about voltage and current, so hopefully I don't need to either).  In the absence of specific suggestions, links to more general guidance about doing this sort of thing would also be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T09:28:07.930" Title="How to amplify car speakers without stereo?" Tags="|electrical|audio|wiring|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2012-09-02T23:06:03.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is a simple switch. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PRBSA1-16F-BB000/450-1038-ND/525716&quot;&gt;Here's an example of one&lt;/a&gt; that you can order from DigiKey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (&lt;strong&gt;GND&lt;/strong&gt;) and &lt;strong&gt;V+&lt;/strong&gt;. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) should be connected to the other connector of the switch. Switch will simply short-circuit positive battery terminal to the radio when turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the simplest solution that I can think of. Well, there is a simpler one, using just bare wires and connecting them when needed, but I guess that would be somewhat weird solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2167" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T23:06:03.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2012-09-03T02:34:33.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There certainly have been a number of developments as far as equalization and other features that they used to lack, but it'll all come down to the output voltage of your smartphone, and the acceptable voltage expectation of the amplifier. It won't hurt it to try it out; but it just might be too quiet or distorted (I'm guessing it'll be quiet if it doesn't work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T02:34:33.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T10:15:41.677" Score="2" ViewCount="8307" Body="&lt;p&gt;My VW golf-5 does not turn the ignition on, radio turns on together with the light and no dim lights. The brake pedal is stone hard, tried wriggling the steering wheel left and right while at the same time turning the key but it cannot start or turn the display box on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just broke the key and now using a spare but the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key mobilizer is working just fine and the battery is fully charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2171" LastEditorUserId="14303" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T13:57:47.933" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:57:47.933" Title="Vw Golf-5 can't turn the ignition, brake pedal stiff and key broken" Tags="|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T14:45:45.570" Score="5" ViewCount="32482" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 spark plugs--three finally changed but one won't come out and is apparently stuck with a deposit of carbon. Has a service every year so not as though it is ignored. we don't want to change the car but can't afford a major problem with it as it's our workhorse as well. Mechanic has added something to petrol to see if it will help but nothing has---any suggestions please. Ford Focus Zetec Estate about six years old.Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2172" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T23:59:36.077" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T17:06:24.113" Title="Getting a stuck spark plug out" Tags="|sparkplugs|zetec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4264" CreationDate="2012-09-04T15:16:21.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a can of good quality penetrating fluid (not WD-40, which is designed as a lubricant). Spray plenty of it into the plug recess, and leave overnight. Repeat this two or three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a proper spark plug spanner (with the little rubber insert to grip the plug properly), try to rock the plug back and forth, tightening then loosening. Eventually, with a bit of luck, you'll get it to move slightly. Once it is moving, carefully work it out, continuing to work it back and forth - as it sticks, tighten it a bit then try again. You may find further applications of penetrating fluid help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, you'll get it out without breaking it or damaging the threads on the cylinder head - if you do damage them, you should be able to get it helicoiled (effectively inserting a new thread) in order to fit the new plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T15:16:21.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4239" CreationDate="2012-09-04T17:45:57.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is fuel, try running a can of fuel system cleaner through it.  A good spray of carb cleaner wouldn't hurt either.  I'm guessing you've got a gunked-up jet in the carb that isn't giving a good spray pattern.  It could also be a sticking needle valve that's keeping your float bowl from working properly, but I'd expect you'd have a problem when trying to accelerate too if that were the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T17:45:57.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2012-09-04T20:09:27.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to turn the key so hard it breaks.  Most newer vehicles will lock the steering wheel if you turn the wheels without the key in the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, keep doing what you initially tried but don't turn the key so hard.  Just keep jiggling the steering wheel back and forth, pump the brakes a few times and gently turn the key.  This unlocks the steering wheel on most vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't working, check your owner's manual.  It should mention how to unlock the steering wheel in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/3832-Steering-Wheel-Stuck-Car-Won-t-Start&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; you may have to put some oomph into jiggling the steering wheel, but still go gentle on the key. You don't want to break the key off in the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T20:09:27.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T21:39:24.383" Score="6" ViewCount="9164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some problems with battery going dead sometimes, and I noticed that there are some small sparks after disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and then reconnecting again. It is not big current (I have to go check with multimeter but I think that it is no more than 500mA, and only initially, it is reduced later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is turned of, then how big current is to be expected for clock (analogue, car is produced in year 1990) and alarm, which would not be considered as parasitic drain? I'm thinking that anything more than 25mA should be considered an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="728" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T06:17:53.740" Title="What current is &quot;normal&quot; for constant battery drain (not parasitic)" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2012-09-05T02:04:54.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies with different cars 50-75 ma is usually acceptable, the initial spike you see is normal. It's from everything powering up initially. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T02:04:54.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-05T15:12:08.983" Score="4" ViewCount="44471" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a few rattles and hums whilst driving, specifically a rattle somewhere in the dash as well as a noise somewhere in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that noise and vibrations are deceiving inside the shell of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips that could help me find the specific noises?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-07-01T21:24:45.833" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:20:05.513" Title="How to identify rattles and noises in the car?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2012-09-05T20:45:13.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem, my 2006 Homelink worked fine, car was totaled three weeks ago, 2007 Homelink will NOT work.  I have followed all the steps repeatedly, even erased it first, all the red and green solid, slowly blinking, and rapid blinking lights work, but nothing.  I only mention this because I took it to the dealer today, as suggested here, and they can not get it to work either.  All they said was, &quot;The lights are working, so the Homelink works.&quot;  Period.  So don't expect your dealer to be any help at all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I read through some other threads, and found this link to the Homelink website:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homelink.com/program/watchvideo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homelink.com/program/watchvideo&lt;/a&gt;   The directions are different than the ones in my Prius owner's manual, and worked like a charm.  Since we have a Genie with rolling code, I had to get up on a ladder to push the button INSIDE (not on the back of) the overhead opener, and the button was not orange or labelled Learn or anything else, but once I pushed it and got back inside the Prius quickly and pushed the Homelink button  until it blinked, three times, and it works now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastEditorUserId="2174" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T21:21:13.483" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T21:21:13.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2012-09-05T20:59:23.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the car to the dealer and they determined that when I had my windshield replaced the cutter tool that they use to free the old windshield was used they cut too deeply and cut some of the wires.  They replaced the wiring and homelink now works plus it also fixed issue with the dome light not coming on when the door was opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T20:59:23.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4275" CreationDate="2012-09-06T02:37:53.580" Score="2" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2&quot; nail in the side of my rear tyre on my motorcycle. The nail is fairly firmly stuck in the tyre but I'm not sure if it has actually penetrated it (it has gone in sideways). The damage is not on the contact patch but clearly the nail contacts the road when I lean over (the nail has wear marks). There is no sign of air leaking so far and I think it's been there a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I just pull the nail out and it has been punctured, I'm concerned the tyre will just go flat on the spot and I wont be able to take it to a shop to be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's the question: I have an old tyre plug set. Should I remove the nail and if it leaks,  plug it. Alternatively, should I take it so a shop and get them to remove the nail and fix the tyre professionally. BTW: I have never used a plug set before but I have no local tyre shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: If the nail has not penetrated the tyre, will it have weakened it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T10:22:48.577" Title="Removing a nail from my tyre" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-06T04:51:16.440" Score="6" ViewCount="4963" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Nissan sentra se-r 2.5l &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you can advice me on my car.&#xA;My codes are: &#xA;0447, 1490, 0340, 0031, 0037&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My symptoms:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Car stalls after driving for 5 minutes than cannot start for another 2 minutes than can drive fine and after 10 more minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Battery light is on. sometimes it's blinking, sometimes it's solid. It started recently and my battery died after several days. Now I got a new battery to test but the same problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. After I got a battery light, sometimes pressing a gas pedal doesn't change anything. I mean rpm doesn't go higher than 1500. I didn't drive it too much though. I know it happened at least twice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions on what it might be?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I found so far: &#xA;1. Replacing crankshaft sensor might help with stalling?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Do I also need to replace camshaft?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Alternator gone bad(that's why I see battery light, right?)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. need to replace oxygen sensors because of 0031 and 0037?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and info is appreciated. And let me know if I can perform and how any of the fixes by myself if those are not too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="988" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T20:57:34.273" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T20:57:34.273" Title="My car has multiple ODBII engine fault codes" Tags="|p1490|p0447|p0340|p0031|p0037|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2012-09-06T08:15:24.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me - I would get the tyre replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car I would think about plugging it, but there I have 4 wheels and a nice strong rollcage and airbags. And even on a car tyre, plugging isn't &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; simple - there are things that can go wrong if you haven't done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike, my safety is worth considerably more than the cost of a replacement tyre. You really don't want that baby to blow out while cornering hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;re your bonus question - yes. Any damage like this will have weakened the tyre. Your problem is you can't tell how much until you reach failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T08:15:24.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2012-09-06T10:22:48.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would verify the tire pressure is correct. If the service center is close say under 5 miles and you can get there driving slowly just drive to the shop and get it replaced. The old style plugs are actually illegal in many locals. Even when they were the standard for repair they were never designed for sidewall use. The guideline for their use was in the tread area only. Any damage (puncture/large cut etc.) to the sidewall requires the tire be replaced. You may hear anecdotal evidence of people patching sidewalls with no issues but is not the accepted norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T10:22:48.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4270" CreationDate="2012-09-06T14:08:37.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to tell whether the noise you are hearing is rattling, or vibration. They could have very different causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear rattling somewhere in the dash, then it's probably something in the glovebox or various compartments inside. The first thing I'd do is to take away &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; from these and drive around the block for a quick test. Usually it's spare parking change, forgotten CD in the glovebox, or somesuch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dash is vibrating, try pushing it in different places while driving (better yet, ask the passenger next to you to do it while the noise is present to see whether the dash itself is loose). If the noise stops, then you have found the cause. If you have some aftermarket dash-mounted equipment, they might also be responsible (I had a phone mount in my car when I bought it and I needed good 10 minutes to figure out where the vibrations are coming from. With the help of a screwdriver, it's all peace and quiet now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes if you hear rattling from the back -- make sure everything's secured in the trunk (you could leave the heavier items, they won't rattle), or better yet, take everything away. I'd be more concerned when something rattles on the back, to be honest -- I usually secure everything in the trunk and there shouldn't be anything that rattles at all. Sure, noises from loads adjusting during driving, sharp cornering or bumps are normal, but definitely not constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rattle comes from below when you are driving on a bumpy road or cornering a bit hard, then it's most likely the suspension. Nothing to worry about, it could be as simple as anti-roll bar links which you can readily replace yourself. If the rattling is not constant, I'd wait with the repair until it is -- it will be easier to identify what's wrong anyway. But if you have problems with steering or the suspension is wobbly -- I'd definitely check that out immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T14:08:37.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2012-09-07T05:34:07.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to address is the alternator. Based on the light on the dash it's suspect. You can have your alternator tested free at most auto parts stores. A properly working Alternator is required for vehicle operation and is a must fix before any other troubleshooting can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the sensors on the car and the computer need to have the enough voltage to operate correctly, low voltage conditions can set erroneous codes. The majority if not all of your symptoms could be caused by low voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to check is all the fuses, under hood and under dash alike. Several unrelated sensors can share the same fuse. A single blow fuse can set multiple codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the codes, on a side not it's best to repair the codes from smallest to largest as some of the lower setting codes can effect higher codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P0031 HO2S1 (Pre-cat) Heater Control Circuit Low&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater circuit heats the O2 sensor when the vehicle first starts up so the computer can go into closed loop faster. (closed loop means the computer is making adjustments on actual sensor values instead of a fix parameters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't cause any symptoms after the car as been running for 3 - 4 minutes if it causes any at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit open shorted to ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 1 &lt;strong&gt;circuit fuse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p0031_nissan.html#ixzz25l0QMNYI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read more&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P0037 (Post-Cat) HO2S12 Heater Control Circuit Low&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same explanation and causes as p0031 and the sensors share the same fuse on a lot of cars. Water in the sensor is a common reason for blow fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camshaft position sensors are usually used by the computer to determine which cylinder is miss firing, although I am not positive on Nissan. If that's the case it won't cause symptoms if there's problem, but will set a code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty starter motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting system circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead (Weak) battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p0340_nissan.html#ixzz25l3WFKIw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read more:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Evap systems job is to keep gas vapors from the gasoline in the tank from getting into the atmosphere and usually won't cause any symptoms. It can cause the car to run rich and &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; cause misfires, the computer can usually compensate enough to prevent that from happening though. If you need a more though explanation for this system it might be best to ask another question about just this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purge Control Valve harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purge Control Valve electrical circuit poor connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty canister vent control valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p0447_nissan.html#ixzz25l5Rt1iA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read more:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;side note this code has nothing to do with the Air Conditioning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P1490 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix the P0447 code first, then see if this code sets again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;possible causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum cut valve bypass valve harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum cut valve bypass valve electrical circuit poor connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Vacuum cut valve bypass valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1490_nissan.html#ixzz25l79Y7tf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read more:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T05:34:07.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4286" CreationDate="2012-09-07T12:46:52.243" Score="5" ViewCount="27037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Opel Corsa 1999 B type.  It is giving me problems now.  I have read a little bit about OBD2 scanning tools.  But don't know if one could help me, or that I am maybe hoping for too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that you can link them to your laptop and download program that can configure you car's computer, and do various other functions, like tell you what is wrong with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking of getting one I can link to my laptop but I'm not sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T14:26:17.407" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T06:49:15.960" Title="Is it worth getting an OBD2 scanning tool?" Tags="|obd-ii|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4284" CreationDate="2012-09-07T13:36:05.193" Score="6" ViewCount="2807" Body="&lt;p&gt;My battery went dead yesterday. I couldn't hear the usual cranking sound of starter. Just a faint click when try starting the engine. Replaced the battery, then all was fine. I tested the voltage across the battery with the engine running, got 14v DC. Is this how you check the alternator?  It's a 1-litre 2001 polo hatchback. The maintenance-free battery only lasted around five years, and I don't use my car a lot at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips you can give me to stop this from happening? Is there anything else that could have caused the battery to die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:05:13.610" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T15:11:51.053" Title="Dead battery — is there anything else that caused this?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4283" CreationDate="2012-09-07T14:33:01.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many modern batteries will only get around 5-8 years these days, depending on the quality, usage patterns and where you live - harsh, cold winters will cause a battery to fail earlier than one kept in a more temperate climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14v across the terminals with the engine running sounds like your alternator is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the worst things for a battery (and many other parts of the engine) is frequent shor journeys in cold weather, so if this matches your usage, make sure you take it out for a fairly long journey at least once a week. This gives the battery a chance to charge up fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tend to leave the car for fairly long periods unused (e.g. if you don't use it to commute, so it sits all week), it may be worth getting a trickle charger to keep it topped up - you can buy solar powered ones fairly cheaply that simply sit on your dashboard and plug in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T14:33:01.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2012-09-07T16:00:38.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably not worth the effort. You can go to your local mechanic to have your engine controller read. It either costs nothing or very little most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T16:00:38.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2012-09-07T16:39:30.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not sure why you would need one then no, it would not be a good purchase.  You would be much better off telling us what's happening with your car: we might be able to be of assistance given some information on specific symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-1.5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on-board diagnostic port&lt;/a&gt; will look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAVYk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It serves as an interface port that the engine computer is required to populate with diagnostic data.  From a problem diagnostic point of view, the most important information would be the error codes.  Your indication that an error code might be available is usually the check engine light: if it's blinking or on, there's usually a code to be read from the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: if you don't know what the codes mean or what you should do about them, a code scanner isn't going to be very useful to you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to reprogram your engine computer for a variety of purposes.  Be aware that this is advanced-level car maintenance: if you change the fuel profile, for instance, it is easy to cause your engine to fatally break itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I've done exactly this with my current car to great success and satisfaction.  I did this will full awareness that any problems resulting would be my own fault and might include anything up to causing my car to break and my wife to burst into Fury Flames.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T16:39:30.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4283" CreationDate="2012-09-07T17:26:26.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother owns VW Polo (1998) and the battery goes dead sometimes, usually when dad parks the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He found the source of the problem to be in car stereo. When the car is turned off by rotating the key all the way down, one would think that the power is cut away from car electronics. However, when it comes to Polo, &lt;strong&gt;power to the stereo&lt;/strong&gt; (and I guess other electronics as well) &lt;strong&gt;remains active until you remove the key from the keyhole&lt;/strong&gt; (a clicking sound - latch closing - can be heard while doing so). I'm not sure how common this kind of power routing in vehicles is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure to always remove the key from the keyhole when turning the car off if you're going to leave it turned off for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery may or may not recover after full depletion, depending on age and build quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2167" LastEditorUserId="2167" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T15:11:51.053" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T15:11:51.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4293" CreationDate="2012-09-07T20:32:46.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the rear sway bar bushings in my Mazda 3. I have the disassembly manual, and it instructed me on how to remove and replace the bushings, but one of the things it doesn't cover is how to put the bushings back onto the sway bar once they have been removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I can't seem to get the bushings to compress enough to get the D bracket back onto the bushing. Any suggestions on how to do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2003" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T14:04:58.443" Title="Mazda 3 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement" Tags="|suspension|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-08T12:10:09.760" Score="5" ViewCount="6376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Opel Corsa 1999 B type.  We had a mechanic redo the engine about 4 months ago, but this week it just does not want to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today had other mechanic look at the engine, and did a quick compression test, cyclinder 1 and 4 where under the normal presure. Those cylinders where running under pressure before the engine was redone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a while now the engine has not been running at its best, it idelled under its normal revs and you really had to put your foot down to get some kid of preformance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also checked the spark plugs, All are black, and cylinder 4's spark plug has oil on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could cause the low compression so, soon after the engine has been redone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T20:23:50.107" Title="Cylinder 1 and 4 has low compresion, after engine has been redone" Tags="|engine|compression|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2012-09-08T20:00:37.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced an 8-3 code which is another internal failure of the SRS unit code. From my research, a low battery can bring about an internal failure code.  Apparently, before you replace the air bag control module, you should make sure that your battery and charging system is up to par.  If everything checks out and you still can't erase the code, chances are you will have to replace the control module.  I got mine for about fifty bucks on Ebay.  The dealer will charge you close to 600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read codes on many civics by shorting 4 and 9 terminal with no adverse affects.  I have never had an airbag go off, although I keep myself out of harms way due to airbag neck snapping rumors spread by dealerships who want to charge you for a 5 minute diagnostic test on their scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2185" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T20:00:37.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4288" CreationDate="2012-09-09T13:46:17.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bushings are usually split.  You slide the the bushing over the bar with the flat side to the vehicle.  There may be a special place on the bar where the bushing will mate properly, almost like an indentation.  The split should fully close.  Did you get the split part of the bushing to fully close or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in place, the D-bracket should nestle into place around the rounded part of the bushing.  There should be a small gap if any between the bracket and the vehicle.  Are you sure you have the bushing the right way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2071" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T13:46:17.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2012-09-09T14:37:09.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure to consider one that links to your smart phone. There are several models that link via Bluetooth, which work on Android phones and PC. Googling &quot;obd2 bluetooth&quot; will find what you need. They don't work on iPhone as the Bluetooth profiles on iPhone are limited, but wifi models are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software on your phone (like Torque) or PC will let you to check engine temperature, RPM, speed and other readings depending on your car model. It may also allow reading and resetting the fault codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T14:37:09.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2012-09-10T14:25:39.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it is not worth the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in the states almost all major auto parts chains (Advance Auto, Autozone, etc) will do a check or even loan you the tool for free. Unless you're checking codes daily, it may be cost prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error codes produced by OBD2 are rather generic. They can be helpful in pointing you in the correct direction but they do not tell you exactly what's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for configuring your computer, you're more likely to break the vehicle than improve anything. Remember GM had teams of Engineers to make that computer as optimal as it is.  If you really wish &amp;quot;improve&amp;quot; your computer look around on the net for &amp;quot;Custom Performance&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Performance reprogramming&amp;quot; for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2190" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T06:49:15.960" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T06:49:15.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5125" CreationDate="2012-09-10T23:32:45.130" Score="3" ViewCount="2566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering getting a 1985 Honda GB400TT bike as I simply love the look of them and they seem to be selling at a good price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand these are grey imports (imported 2nd hand from Japan) and was wondering if anyone had had any experience with them and could tell me what to look out for when buying or maintaining one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a pretty broad question but any advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2139" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T18:09:42.433" LastActivityDate="2017-05-20T15:57:15.560" Title="How reliable is a Honda GB400 (motorcycle) grey import?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4289" CreationDate="2012-09-11T01:16:48.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why was it redone? And was your block checked for warping? If it was warped, and not corrected, you could be facing the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T01:16:48.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T13:52:52.867" Score="16" ViewCount="101344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what types of issues I am most likely looking at with this; My 2003 Ford Escape (V6) has an increasingly pronounced burnt oil smell that has developed slowly over a year or so, coupled with a slow leak of oil. Lately, we can notice a small amount of white smoke from the vehicle after stopping, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never noticed any evidence of coolant and oil mixing, nor is the vehicle losing any coolant. I have also not noticed any particular odd smoke coming from the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a very small oil puddle in the garage that stays roughly the same size; it seems as much is burnt as is leaked otherwise, and it doesn't seem to leak much when parked (though obviously, some!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking, up until recently with the smell/smoke, was that it was a minor thing and checking oil levels would be OK until I could get it repaired - especially since there is no mixing of oil/coolant. Is that likely to be correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked a bit from underneath while changing the oil, and from above, but I really don't see any obvious signs of where the oil could be leaking from. I suppose I could expend some more effort looking... but where are some likely places I should look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'll be fixing it myself, unless I could find it to be something very minor, but I'd like to have an idea before I go to the shop with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2139" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T22:05:20.143" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T14:44:49.603" Title="Oil burning smell and slow oil leak" Tags="|ford|oil|oil-leak|smell|cd2|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T14:30:59.430" Score="3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2012 Camaro 2SS in May. When I took the car for a test drive, the steering wheel had a tight shake for the first couple of miles. When I told the salesperson, he suggested trying another route because it may have been the road. Well, I drove it in a different spot and there was no shake, so I bought the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I bought the car, most mornings the steering wheel would shake for a couple of miles and then stop. This didn't happen every day, but it happened quite a bit. The dealer, and some friends, told me that this can happen with performance tires. They said that the way the settle overnight can cause something inside them to clump together, and driving a few miles will smooth that out. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer replaced the front tires and it's still happening. Does it make sense that certain tires would cause this, and I just have to live with a new car where the steering wheel shakes for the first couple of miles? Or is this maybe an indication of something else that's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have to buy winter tires soon, and that may help decide the issue. If the steering wheel no longer shakes with the new tires, then I guess I can assume it was the performance tires all along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1782" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T17:05:03.750" Title="Steering Wheel Shake New Car Performance Tires" Tags="|troubleshooting|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4299" CreationDate="2012-09-11T16:22:37.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you gotten the tires re-balanced? When the tires are out of balance, a slight to severe shake on the steering wheel can be felt. Also, control arms or other components that are bent or loose can cause shaking. I would take it to a certified and trusted mechanic (NOT at the dealership) to have a look under the car for any loose nuts and bolts, bent components and check tire balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T16:22:37.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T17:15:45.330" Score="5" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time cars vibrate when you turn the A/C on, but mine is the other way around, when the AC is off the car has a lot of vibration, if I turn on the A/C it will stop vibrating, I already went to the mechanic, they used the scanner and they can't find anything. I just changed the spark plugs and no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't happen all the time but it does  most of it,  any suggestion of what should I check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:15:17.450" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:15:17.450" Title="My Ford Focus 2009 has a lot of vibration when the A/C is off?" Tags="|ford|ac|focus|hvac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16312" CreationDate="2012-09-11T20:06:00.593" Score="1" ViewCount="5977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Citroen C4 can come equipped with a Bluetooth audio system, which can connect your phone too. I was wondering is anyone tried playing music from the iphone to the audio system using bluetooth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2193" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T12:07:37.937" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T17:19:24.423" Title="Does the Citroen C4 2012 Bluetooth audio system play music and connects the phone?" Tags="|audio|citroen|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2012-09-11T22:03:42.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhere there will be a Ford spec for how much oil the engine is allowed to consume between oil changes.  I wouldn't be surprised if it's shockingly high.  Check your owner's manual for starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil level as measured by the dipstick never gets lower than the low end of the 'acceptable' range between oil changes, it's probably OK to leave it alone.  Otherwise, you should be adding oil to keep it between the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the oil pan.  Any sign of oil soaking through the seal?  Drain plug?  Oil cooler adapter (what the filter screws into)? Timing chain cover?  Valve covers?  PCV valve / Oil Separator?  Even if it's only leaking while operating at higher RPMs, you should be able to find a trail.  You can apply some powder to help spot it, though don't use much and don't use anything easily combustible (and try and keep it off the exhaust components).  Dye added to the oil and a UV light is probably a better way to go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T22:03:42.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4305" CreationDate="2012-09-11T22:23:32.713" Score="6" ViewCount="2356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding to day I could hear a rhythmic tapping sound. I occurs when I ease off the throttle. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it is the chain tapping against the plastic chain guard when tension on the chain from accelerating is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled over and was able to move the bottom section of the chain up and down between 2 - 2.5 inches. This seems a lot for me but I have read that bikes with a single shock absorber at the back have more play then dual shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda VTR250. Does anyone know if thats an acceptable amount of play and if not, whats the best way to remedy it (new chain)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T23:52:01.307" Title="Play in motorcycle chain - how much is ok?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4304" CreationDate="2012-09-11T23:52:01.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is about 1 to 1.5 inches of slack, so it does sound like yours is too loose.  Your bike manual will tell you exactly how to adjust it - there are many different ways, but generally there will be an adjuster screw on each side - make sure you turn them the same amount, and check your wheel is still aligned afterwards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T23:52:01.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4309" CreationDate="2012-09-12T10:33:11.707" Score="5" ViewCount="20350" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after tightening my chain the other day I noticed a creaking noise - its seems there is a tight spot in the links. I have sprayed this with chain oil and let soak. I know I will need to replace the chain soon but is it ok to ride a few times? Will the stiffness 'iron out'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:10:18.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:12:29.403" Title="Motorcycle: stiff chain links - able to repair?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|chain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-12T11:55:19.530" Score="3" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today it was raining in Manchester so I turned the wiper on the timer setting. You know the one that only occasionally wipes the windshield. HOwever I drove many miles without it moving once.  Other continuous settings work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switch it on and off many times it did move once but most of the time it didn't budge. I have had the indicator switch go shortcircuit on me. Could this have happened to the wiper switch this time? Is there any basic troubleshooting I can do? I have basic electronics knowledge and a cheapy multimeter which apparently is capable upto 10Amps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T04:50:10.647" Title="Wipers not working on timer" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-12T15:00:39.183" Score="8" ViewCount="27199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1975 Honda XL250 that I bought earlier this summer. Up until recently its been running great. It was leaking a little gas, but nothing too serious. When it started to get worse, I opened up the carb and cleaned it out. I figured the float needle wasn't seating properly. This largely solved my problem, although there is still a little bit of drippage. I need to get a carb kit and just haven't gotten around to it. So the cleaning of the carb took place on Monday. It wasn't starting, so being a relative noob, I thought it might have something to do with the carb flooding. After cleaning it I tried to start it again, but still no dice. Tested the spark, and it was sparking fine. Not really able to think of anything else I did some research and came across a post that said sometimes you may get spark on a test, but when it's back in the chamber it won't spark due to pressure or something along those lines. So I figured, my spark plug is dirty anyway, a new one will cost me $2, and at the very worst I have a new plug. Anyway, this ended up solving the problem. It started right up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I rode it to class yesterday and just cruised around town later at night. It was working fine, but then when I was cruising I noticed I was losing some power on acceleration. It was sputtering if I accelerated hard and would make some popping noises. Not loud ones, but popping nonetheless. The idle wasn't very smooth this morning when I rode it to work and it actually died pulling up to the first light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting or fixing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE: I set the idle a little higher and that seemed to help, but when I rode it back to work it was still giving me problems. I stopped off at the gas station to fill up, despite still having what I thought to be enough gas in the tank. Anyway, I filled up and now it idles and runs fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATED UPDATE: So after getting home from work it sat for a bit and now I'm having very similar issues. Sometimes when I accelerate from a stop it will sputter and either come very close to dying, or just die. This is definitely not due to me shifting improperly. There's a lot of popping when I just rev it, and sometimes it has trouble idling.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T17:00:11.513" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T16:31:01.600" Title="Motorcycle popping on acceleration" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|carburetor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4306" CreationDate="2012-09-12T23:11:44.647" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get some penetrating lube similar to what you would on rusty bolts spray the offening link. This should help but only if the stiff link is due to rust or lack of lubrication. If the link was damaged it won't get better. In the U.S. we have Liquid wrench,SeaFoam, PB Blaster etc. you want something that is thin enough to seep between the plates. If you can soak a small rag with the penetrant and wrap it around the chain overnight. Then see if you can work the link in both direction by hand. Most of the aerosols will evaporate so the rag gives you a longer soak. If the link frees up spray it with a chain lubricant so it will stay flexible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T23:11:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4322" CreationDate="2012-09-13T17:10:15.243" Score="2" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AC compressor in my car is turning on and off repeatedly, and not really getting a chance to get cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read this can indicate low coolant. I've just had the system repaired a month ago, so it has a new a bunch of new parts... Original post about AC problems here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4090/1995-mercury-mystique-no-more-cool-air-from-ac&quot;&gt;1995 Mercury Mystique - No more cool air from AC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions on how to check if the coolant is actually low, and how to find and repair leaks in the system if there are any? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:17:43.000" Title="1995 Mercury Mystique - AC compressor turning on and off" Tags="|ac|cdw27|mystique|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4314" CreationDate="2012-09-13T17:23:59.260" Score="4" ViewCount="12291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing some maintenance on a ~25 year old garden tiller with what I believe to be a 5.0 HP Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton motor.  I have no manuals for this thing.  Cars I have worked on have had spark plug gaps from .026&quot; to .090&quot;.  Out of the box, the replacement spark plugs for this motor have had gaps from about .030&quot; to .050&quot;.    What gap should I be using for the spark plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="705" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T08:13:34.817" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T08:13:34.817" Title="What spark plug gap to use for old 5HP briggs and stratton" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2012-09-13T17:41:34.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check the pressure with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gauge set&lt;/a&gt;.  The low pressure port is near the battery.  If you've got normal pressure, you might have a bad low pressure switch.  I'd think it would be on one of the hard lines, but I'd have to look up the location.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out where the leak is, you fill the system back up and try and find it.  Use R134a with dye added and grab a UV light and glasses/goggles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've found the leak, you can fix it.  The strategy will depend on where it is.  If it's a hard line, you can replace the line or just splice it.  If it's something like the condenser, you'll need to have it patched or just replace it.  You'll need to evacuate the system to work on it.  Ideally you would use a vacuum pump and a recovery tank instead of venting R134a to the atmosphere, which is frowned upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's fixed, charge the system again.  Don't forget some PAG oil for the compressor.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mikes is suggesting, you might let the shop have another look at it.  From personal experience with this platform, after the compressor and accumulator have been replaced, the next suspect is the return line from the accumulator to the compressor.  It's not available from Ford, but Vintage Parts should have one (Any good dealer parts department will look up the part and get it from Vintage).  I think there is only one line that's not available from Vintage.  I can't remember which one, but I remember that it's one that it should be possible to replace with an aftermarket / fabricated solution.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the defroster setting engages the compressor.  Continually spinning it up enough for the low pressure switch to get a reading and shut it down is probably not good for it.  If you're not going to fix it for the winter, you should consider pulling the relays in the box under the hood to keep the compressor off.  Having the system low/open for a long period of time is not good for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T15:17:43.000" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:17:43.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4176" CreationDate="2012-09-13T18:05:16.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just had this fixed on a 2006 Cruiser.  It was the cooling fan not running when needed on low speed.  When stopped there was no airflow through the condenser, a/c pressure goes up, loading down the engine (slowing it and making it rough).  In our case it was the fan, but we were told the fan controller often is the problem.&#xA;We also had the warm air when stopped, which cooled off again when up to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2199" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T18:05:16.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4311" CreationDate="2012-09-13T22:13:20.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get the serial number off the engine the Briggs and Stratton website has the info you need, including where to find the serial number on older motors. After 25 years the odds are pretty good that the plug isn't even the correct one for your motor. I seem to remember it being .030 for some and .040 for others. Perhaps the difference was a Tecumseh/Briggs thing. Researching the serial number is the way to go though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-09-13T22:23:25.817" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T22:23:25.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T03:37:36.640" Score="2" ViewCount="82324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2009 BMW 528i. It’s my understanding that the car doesn’t support A2DP which is a technology that would allow me to connect to my stereo system via Bluetooth and stream music wirelessly. Currently, I have a dongle which connects from the dock connector on my phone and splits off into a USB and 3.5 mm jack in the car’s armrest. I’m assuming the USB interface allows for iDrive control of the stored music while the 3.5 mm handles the music stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car does pair over Bluetooth with my iPhone in order to make hands free calls without the phone being plugged in but what would be required if I wanted to be able to just pair the phone over Bluetooth with my car, switch to the AUX stereo input, and play music without having to plug it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T00:23:36.717" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T21:02:36.907" Title="Can I get bluetooth music enabled in my 2009 BMW 528i?" Tags="|bmw|audio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-14T08:15:49.710" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T08:15:49.710" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T08:15:49.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-14T08:15:49.710" Score="0" Body="A single-cylinder engine is a basic piston engine configuration, often seen on motorcycles, mopeds, dirt bikes, go-karts, and various portable tools." OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T09:52:16.210" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T09:52:16.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T10:02:47.457" Score="1" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought some covers for my car seats. The problem is that I don't know how to remove the head rest of the front seats. My car is Fiat Punto (not Grande).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone can provide a graphical representation, it would be great. After some Google search, someone described the process, but it sounds scary in that version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastEditorUserId="2167" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T19:21:39.957" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T13:11:32.283" Title="cover for seats" Tags="|interior|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2012-09-14T10:48:40.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine did scream too - after I bought some 5$ bottle of fuel-improvment crap and poured it into the gazoline. The effect stopped with using other gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T10:48:40.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4310" CreationDate="2012-09-14T20:15:54.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had the system repaired a  ago I would bring it back. There is a chance that a component that was replaced is defective. There is also the possibility that you had a major leak that they found easily and now a small leak that may be more difficult to find. I would give the shop the benifit of trying to fix it for free before attempting anything by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T20:15:54.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4318" CreationDate="2012-09-15T12:30:57.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is a way of taking them off though it's not an easy job.&#xA;First wind the backrest of the seat forwards and push the whole seat forwards on the rails. At the bottom of the fabric you'll see a plastic strip which with a bit of force (flat bladed screwdriver) will first slide from side to side but it should come apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lying on the back seat wriggle your arm up the back of the seat and find the stalks that have the headrest on them. There is a metal clip that you have prise apart/away from the stalk and with the other hand push the headrest off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit the seat covers and it's really a reverse to get them back on. I found a friend to help to put them back on as it's not easy opening the clip and pushing down on the headrest at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to connect the plastic strip back together before you tie-up underneath. [&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theanswerbank.co.uk/Motoring/Question242993.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-09-16T13:11:32.283" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T13:11:32.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-16T23:33:07.293" Score="3" ViewCount="2965" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2002 Nissan Altima with 106,873 miles. After 95K miles, my car has been giving a rough noise from the engine. After shifting into second gear, it's smooth until I hit the gas pedal hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is that...I hear a noise from the engine when my car is idle and the A/C is switched on. When I change it to neutral, it's quiet and calm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some oil burning issues with the car when I bought it at 85k Miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2207" LastEditorUserId="2247" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T01:15:39.820" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T22:58:26.040" Title="Rough noise while accelerating" Tags="|engine|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-17T09:04:55.737" Score="3" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to connect an OBDII ELM327 adapter in Mercedes Atego. &#xA;Somehow I managed to get it in that OBD2 connector. I can see that my adapter is receiving electricity. These are the PID's that I can read with this adapter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD PID's&lt;/a&gt;. But as I thought these PID's are not working in the Mercedes atego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyone that has a list of the codes that are able to give me a live data? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that my obd2 adapter is fetching data as I can see the yellow lights blinking.&#xA;But no success with the code reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried several forums and a lot of manufacturers but noone has those codes. Everyone is giving me  a link to buy a new OBD2 adapter with their protocol. Maybe I need to change pin's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am a programmer and I am making my own program for reading this live data. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guys please help as this is urgent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T00:25:52.360" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:25:52.360" Title="Mercedes Atego OBD2 live data codes" Tags="|engine|electrical|mercedes-benz|obd-ii|truck|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-08-11T21:07:50.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1962" CreationDate="2012-09-17T16:24:58.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking @ Page 96 of 1999 Toyota Avalon Owner's Manual.  This page shows Dash buttons with labels &amp;amp; some nore.  This is what written on that page for ECT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;PWR&quot; (Power) mode for powerful acceleration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECT&#xA;PWR  &quot;PWR&quot; mode indicator light on the instrument panel shows the driving pattern selector button is in &quot;PWR&quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2208" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:24:58.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3267" CreationDate="2012-09-17T20:12:04.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiring Diagram &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/76-79113wiring.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/76-79113wiring-key.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;key&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Samba&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T20:12:04.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-18T14:22:16.620" Score="2" ViewCount="8954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Honda Civic CNG with 140,000 highway miles. Initially, while driving the car at highway speed, the check engine light would flash and the car would lose power. I would have to stop and turn the car off for a minute and then resume driving. The codes stated &quot;misfire&quot;. I replaced the catalytic converter and fuel filter. This solved the problem for a few months, but now it has resumed with the same symptoms and is now happening more at lower speeds. It doesn't matter what the operating temp is. This is always indicated by the check engine light coming on just prior to it flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2214" LastEditorUserId="2247" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T03:39:25.917" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T03:39:25.917" Title="1999 Honda Civic CNG, Flashing check engine light" Tags="|engine|civic|cel|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4361" CreationDate="2012-09-19T08:02:01.540" Score="5" ViewCount="9149" Body="&lt;p&gt;The opened door light indicator flashes at random rate when I drive.&#xA;This also randomly triggers the alarm system that I had to disconnect.&#xA;I have removed every door switches. No differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual, the system displays an opened door when at least one single wire of the door switches is connected to the vehicle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be a short circuit somewhere between a metalic part of the body and a door switch wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the easiest way to diagnose where the problem is? I don't want to disassemble the whole car to follow every wire. Is there a standard way mechanics approache this kind of issues ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2216" LastEditorUserId="2216" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T08:15:52.667" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T19:14:24.693" Title="How do I diagnose opened door indicator problem on a Honda Civic 1.8Vti Aerodeck" Tags="|electrical|honda|civic|door|wiring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4334" CreationDate="2012-09-19T11:41:40.933" Score="3" ViewCount="3989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just have bought a Toyota Yaris of 2007 and observe two things. There is a squeaking sound from right front when driving over 60-70 km/h. Another is when turning wheels right or left completely I hear creak (like a rubber by rubber) from both front wheels. Visually everything looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause such noise and what can it cost me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the steering creak problem is solved. These were rubber hobs (the big rubber pieces where shock dampers connect to the body). We just put some oil there and after a few kilometers the sound disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still looking for the solution of the other problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1931" LastEditorDisplayName="user1931" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T12:52:35.280" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T12:52:35.280" Title="What can cause the squeak sound in the front right when driving faster then 70 km/h" Tags="|toyota|suspension|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2012-09-19T11:52:23.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if any questions have already been answered: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The codes stated &quot;misfire&quot;. Replace Cat and fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flash and loss of power is almost certainly a limp home mode: the engine computer has detected a problem that it considers serious enough that it needs fixing as soon as possible.  However, the manufacturer doesn't want to leave you stranded so the vehicle will continue to limp along.  By turning the car off, you're briefly defeating the limp mode but the root problem hasn't been addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increase in frequency indicates that the problem is getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T11:52:23.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2012-09-20T01:41:51.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber to rubber sound may be from the tires rubbing on the frame. This is more likely if the wheels and tires are not the stock size. Crank the wheels to the left until it stops. Look into the wheel well and see if you can see black marks on the frame. Do the same on the right side. Place both hands on the right front fender and push down several times. Try to get it to bounce up and down while listening for the noise. This will isolate it to a suspension noise or a steering noise. As far as what could cause the noise, the list is large. Any pivot point in the suspension or steering linkage can squeek. Because the suspension and steering are so important this is not something you want to ignore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T01:41:51.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4337" CreationDate="2012-09-20T09:06:47.933" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I associate my garage door with the Chrysler T&amp;amp;C/Grand Voyager (same car)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2211" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T12:59:44.960" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:59:44.960" Title="How to set the Chrysler Grand Voyager Garage Remote" Tags="|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2012-09-20T21:24:24.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I can think of is that somehow, when the A/C compressor is engaged, that the extra torque on the belt driving is somehow reducing the vibration you would normally get when the compressor is engaged. Perhaps the clutch for the compressor pulley isn't disengaging properly when you turn the A/C off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check (or have a mechanic check) the belt tensioner and belt tensioner pulley, the pulleys on the alternator and water pump, and the general status of your current belt(s). It's probably way too soon for a belt to be bad, but if you have an issue with any of the other pulleys you might have prematurely worn out your belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine vibration itself could also come from cracked or broken motor mounts and/or transmission mounts; you could have those checked as well. It's unlikely that those two issues are related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T21:24:24.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4335" CreationDate="2012-09-20T21:30:27.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that, as a first try, read the manual that came with the car.  It worked for me.  If that doesn't work, go back to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T21:30:27.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-20T23:04:30.970" Score="0" ViewCount="9345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Mitsubishi Triton Utility 1993. It has a 4g54 4 cyl petrol engine with a carby. No computers or anything like that to check error codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you press down on the accelerator quickly the engine will almost stall for a second or 2 before it then actually revs up. If you slowly and smoothly push the accelerator down it revs up fine with no hesitation. It only happens when it's warm. Also after sudden acceleration it backfires more often than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the plug recently and it doesn't happen until the vehicle is warm so I don't think it's the electrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it only happens when it's warm I am thinking there must be a vacuum leak and for a moment it sucks in too much air. I can only assume that once warm one of the hoses or connections expands a little and introduces a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing this sort of issue that I could investigate before I have to try and replace all the vacuum tubing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastEditorUserId="769" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T23:11:47.123" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T03:57:55.963" Title="Hesitation and backfiring on sudden acelleration when warm" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|carburetor|old-cars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4357" CreationDate="2012-09-20T23:25:42.867" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title basically says it all.  I need to convert from R12 to R134, and was told that the ac was discharged when I bought the truck, but I want to double check.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T18:24:39.093" Title="How can I tell if the AC is discharged?" Tags="|ford|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4341" CreationDate="2012-09-21T03:33:08.320" Score="8" ViewCount="14962" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference, I've reviewed these three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3980/2220&quot;&gt;Manually shifting an automatic transmission?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1210&quot;&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3600/2220&quot;&gt;Is engine braking harmful?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a (new to me) 2011 Nissan Sentra.  The transmission is automatic, and as with most newer cars, it has overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always wary of wearing my brakes (and particularly the correlation between braking and gas mileage), so I try to avoid hitting them when it's possible.  If I see somewhere that I'll need to slow down, I try to coast for long enough that I don't have to touch the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, I use engine braking to slow down whenever I can.  Here's where I deviate from those questions.  First of all, my engine is an automatic, so the answers relating to manual transmissions seem like they might be missing some critical parts.  Also, I don't have any large hills I'm braking down, this is almost exclusively before / at a stoplight (so that I barely brake, just slow crawl, then accelerate when it changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process is generally:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - 70-80 mph = coast to 60&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - 50-60 mph = switch overdrive off, RPMs jump to ~3500, engine brake to 25&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - 20-25 mph = shift from &quot;D&quot; (assuming 3rd gear here) to &quot;L&quot; (assuming 1st and 2nd)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets me down to about 10 mph, and I've never seen the RPMs go anywhere close to red line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is largely about the overdrive scenario, and the long term maintenance repercussions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, my basic understanding of overdrive is that it's a higher gear (or possibly a set of gears with incremental gear ratios?) that the transmission shifts into when the car is going a good pace (40-45+).  With this assumption, I feel that switching it off to engine brake will not damage the transmission, as it's merely downshifting, which is exactly what engine braking is about.  Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, is my understanding of engine braking sound as far as the basic gear shifting is concerned (disregarding the overdrive scenario)?  My belief is that any wear would be on the opposite side of the contact locations in the transmission (since the wheels are pushing the engine, not the other - usual - way), so any additional &quot;wear&quot; would be unimportant to the overall life of the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and I believe this is &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; important to this discussion: by all accounts (manual, dealership, online), my 2011 Nissan Sentra has a Continuously Variable Transmission.  I don't understand transmissions well enough to comprehend the subtle differences, but I do know the CVT has the option of infinite gear ratios, which means it can't possibly be a traditional &quot;gear&quot; transmission.  I apologize for dropping this here at the end, but I don't know enough about CVTs to let that guide my questioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I damaging my transmission by using engine braking heavily in day to day driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2024-02-25T04:35:43.327" Title="Engine braking with an automatic transmission" Tags="|transmission|nissan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4340" CreationDate="2012-09-21T12:06:23.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My process is generally:&#xA;  - 70-80 mph = coast to 60&#xA;  - 50-60 mph = switch overdrive off, RPMs jump to ~3500, engine brake to 25&#xA;  - 20-25 mph = shift from &quot;D&quot; (assuming 3rd gear here) to &quot;L&quot; (assuming 1st and 2nd)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This gets me down to about 10 mph, and I've never seen the RPMs go&#xA;  anywhere close to red line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is your procedure, you're well within the engineering tolerances of the design.  Your car is not dealing with any kind of excess load.  All is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With this assumption, I feel that switching it off to engine brake&#xA;  will not damage the transmission, as it's merely downshifting, which&#xA;  is exactly what engine braking is about. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct.  This problem clearly illustrates the situation: the overdrive button just allows the transmission to select an even higher gear, primarily for increased mileage at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, and I believe this is very important to this discussion: by&#xA;  all accounts (manual, dealership, online), my 2011 Nissan Sentra has a&#xA;  Continuously Variable Transmission. I don't understand transmissions&#xA;  well enough to comprehend the subtle differences, but I do know the&#xA;  CVT has the option of infinite gear ratios, which means it can't&#xA;  possibly be a traditional &quot;gear&quot; transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this does make quite a difference in terms of the design but it doesn't change any of the fundamental answers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the pictures from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNOLOGY/OVERVIEW/cvt.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissan CVT overview site&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zw5no.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that there are two variable diameter pulleys connected by a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; robust belt.  As you say, this &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt; allows for an infinite number of gear ratios.  Practically, there are plenty of engineering and human interface limitations that reduce infinity to a more manageable set of presets.  There is a finite resolution of the pulley adjustment mechanism that allows the engine computer to direct the transmission.  This means that, while not quite infinite, you probably have many many more effective gears settings than the five choices I have in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T12:06:23.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T12:13:34.500" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal is to know how much I could draw on it, for lighting my work area while changing brake pads, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T13:29:30.213" Title="Which amount of electricity does a car / truck battery store?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2012-09-21T13:29:30.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on the size of the battery - In Europe it has to be printed on the label, in other parts of the world you'll have to look it up based on the battery code, which is usually a three digit number. The other numbers to look for are the continuous current capacity (CA), which tells you how much you can draw as a constant load, and the Cold Cranking capacity (CCA), which is how much is available for starting the enging - although this latter value won't be as much use for your intended purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guide, a small car might have one of aroud 30-50 Amp-hours, with bigger cars being 100-120Ah, and truck batteries significantly bigger. Batteries for diesel vehicles tend to be bigger as they need more current to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T13:29:30.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T14:08:47.853" Score="2" ViewCount="3400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with all-wheel drive 4.7 power locks and windows etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last few weeks I have a complete electrical power loss. Like the battery is taken out of the Jeep when I drive,  or in the morning to go to work,  its like no power no lights no nothing then after a 5- 15 minutes everything just comes back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hooked up jumper cables to try to help, but nothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;had advance auto check battery and they say it fine only 1 1/2 years old&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked the cables and they good no corrosion and look in good shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have talked to a couple of shops around me and they said that they would need to recreate the problem in order to tell me but there is no pattern on when it will do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if anyone has an ideas, please help. I love this Jeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2224" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T15:15:51.453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T15:15:51.453" Title="1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee power loss (electric)" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|jeep|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T14:53:40.193" Score="4" ViewCount="2374" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a well balanced system starts moving, it should not vibrate ! Or if it does, it should vibrate even more at high speeds !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a car clearly vibrates hard during the startup, to then stabilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T21:18:12.817" Title="Why does a car's engine vibrate at start, despite the circular geometry of its component's dynamics" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T15:11:19.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are they made the same way as classical engines ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T18:57:30.830" Title="What is the specificity of Formula 1 engines, that enables them to reach 18.000 RPM?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T15:35:09.033" Score="1" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it present incredible risks in case of accident ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T02:00:21.353" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T18:17:08.520" Title="How dangerous is it to carry oil/gasoil/gas at the back of one's car?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4347" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:22:00.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When going on long trips or out of the way trips where you know you may not see a gas station for a while, it's worth bringing along extra fuel in a safe and approved container (ie, don't put fuel in a plastic soda bottle and call it a day). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the safest policy, if you're just going about town, is to keep your eye on the fuel gauge and plan accordingly. Things I always maintain in the back though, are antifreeze/coolant, synthetic engine oil, and hose repair tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T16:22:00.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:25:39.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are made quite differently than regular engines that we 'regular folks' have in our cars.   Direct quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formula_One_engines&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formula_One_engines&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power a Formula One engine produces is generated by operating at a very high rotational speed, up to 18,000 revolutions per minute (RPM).[1] This contrasts with road car engines of a similar size which operate safely at typically less than 7,000 rpm. The basic configuration of a naturally aspirated Formula One engine has not been greatly modified since the 1967 Cosworth DFV and the mean effective pressure has stayed at around 14 bar MEP.[2] Until the mid-1980s Formula One engines were limited to around 12,000 rpm due to the traditional metal valve springs used inside the engine to close the valves. The speed required to operate the engine valves at a higher RPM is much greater than the metal valve springs can achieve and they were replaced by pneumatic valve springs introduced by Renault.[citation needed] Since the 1990s, all[citation needed] Formula One engine manufacturers now use pneumatic valve springs with the pressurised air allowing engines to reach speeds of nearly 20,000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bore is the diameter of the cylinder in the engine block, and the stroke is the distance the piston travels from top dead-centre (TDC) to bottom dead-centre (BDC) inside the cylinder. To operate at high engine speeds the stroke must be relatively short to prevent catastrophic failure, usually connecting rod failure as they are under very large stresses at these speeds. Having a short stroke means that a relatively large bore is required to make the 2.4 litre displacement. This results in a less efficient combustion stroke, especially at lower RPM.[citation needed] The stroke of a Formula One engine is approximately 39.7 mm (1.56 in), less than half as long as the bore is wide (98.0 mm) producing an over-square configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the use of pneumatic valve springs a Formula One engine's high RPM output has been made possible due to advances in metallurgy and design allowing lighter pistons and connecting rods to withstand the accelerations necessary to attain such high speeds, also by narrowing the connecting rod ends allowing for narrower main bearings. This allows for higher RPM with less bearing-damaging heat build-up. For each stroke, the piston goes from a null speed, to almost two times the mean speed, (approx. 40 m/s) then back to zero. This will occur 4 times for each of the 4 strokes in the cycle. Maximum piston acceleration occurs at mid‑stroke and is in the region of 95,000 m/s2, about 10,000 times standard gravity or 10,000 g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T16:25:39.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4345" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:27:47.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a well balanced system, but remember that it is not purely circular...the main shaft is circular, but the pistons are at an angle to the circular shaft, thus during low engine RPMs (startup, stall, etc) the vibration is increased as the system is cast out of balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T16:27:47.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:30:36.910" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to add silicon or other soft devices between the engine of an old car and the chassis, in order to reduce the amount of noise that is transmitted and thus the amount of vibration felt in the car ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, how to high-end cars (like BMW 7 Series?) reach near 0-noise ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T18:05:04.147" Title="Noise isolation for 'vanilla' engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4347" CreationDate="2012-09-21T17:43:51.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carry the fuel in an approved container, some local laws require color coded tanks for gasoline, diesel, alcohol etc. If you must carry fuel in the interior of the vehicle use common sense. Don't smoke, and open the windows to avoid a build up of fumes/vapors. If you are using the fuel to power a lawnmower, generator, etc carry as little as possible for the shortest distance you can. An alternative is to fill the fuel contaner from your vehicle using an approved siphoning devise. Do not insert a hose in the tank and suck on it with your mouth. If the situation requires carry a portable container, position it in the vehicle so that is unlikely to tip over or slide while the vehicle is moving. If the fuel must be carried due to the distance between fuel supplies then empty it into the tank as soon as possible.If it is 350 miles between supplies and the vehicle range is 300 miles add the carried fuel as soon as you can. Don't carry the fuel in a portable container any longer than needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="339" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T18:17:08.520" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T18:17:08.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4351" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:05:04.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding any type of engine dampening between the chasis and engine  would not be cost effective. You may be able to quiet the interior noise level with the addition of sound absorbing material to the floor under the carpet. Luxury vehicles reduce the noise levels by adding insulation to the body and isolating the engine from the chasis with special motor mounts. Additionally the engines themselves run smoother. Some makers have incorporated noise canceling technology in the vehicle. It is sometimes refered to as &quot;white noise&quot;. It is a sound that is emitted at a specific frequency and volume that cancels out the noise the vehicle generates. The result is reduced noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T18:05:04.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:57:30.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly simpler answer: the more volume of air/fuel you can burn (all around 13:1 air/fuel ratio) the more power you can produce. You can increase the static displacement (e.g. 3.7L V6 vs 2.5L four) or the engine speed. Formula One has always had restrictions on displacement, which required increasing the engine speed or increasing efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formula One engines are always accelerating, which makes rotational inertia a concern. The less the better. However, reducing the mass also reduces the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limitations on engine speed come from friction which increases with engine speed and material strength. There have been street engines with relatively long strokes that could hit 9000 rpms: Honda S2000, Ferrari 458. Both had strokes over 3&quot;. However, in F1 the move to small bearings for reduced friction and less mass in connecting rods, crankshafts, piston pins, etc. for less inertia can make failure an issue. Metal valve springs are also subject to failure; racers frequently change them. F1 went to pneumatic valve springs a while ago. Valve stems can have strength issues. They are reduced in size for both less mass and less interference in the airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F1 engines had gotten over 19000 rpms and were approaching 20k rpms years ago. F To reduce costs and increase competition the rules were changed to set an speed limit (19k in 2007, 18k in 2009) and limited the driver to 8 sealed engines for the season. There are also restrictions on bore size and materials used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result has been a dramatic increase in engine reliability, although there are failures because of the 8 engine rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if rotational inertia wasn't a problem, it would be fairly simple to make an engine with components that could withstand the forces at 18k. However, when you want to minimize friction, minimize inertia, and maximize airflow the issues begin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2225" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T18:57:30.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4345" CreationDate="2012-09-21T21:18:12.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The core reason is that the core of an engine is a series of explosions moving asymmetric components by pressure and then venting gases. At speed, these happen so fast that there is no obvious bang before the next one, but think about what happens at the initial stages of starting your engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 explosion forces a piston down, which pushes the connecting rod to rotate the camshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see from the diagram that there is a counterweight, but to get it started is a bit asymmetric. Usually the firing of the cylinders is not smooth at first as well, so until the idle speed is reached, there may be explosions happening at irregular times - leading to vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uFiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T21:18:12.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2012-09-23T18:22:51.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Backfiring is typically a too-rich condition. I would check any accelerator pump for proper operation, due to it being on acceleration only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine's are inefficient when cold and will require a lot more fuel, so that may be what's masking the symptoms until warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the engine is temporarily flooded on hard accel., and then when the gas is pumped out the right spark ignites it and all the fuel in the exhaust, causing the backfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T18:22:51.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4339" CreationDate="2012-09-23T18:24:39.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming everything is hooked up properly, try turning on the A/C to the max. If it's weak or non-existent, it's got no pressure to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T18:24:39.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2012-09-23T18:29:35.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should cause a MIL, but it sounds like an idle-valve is not working properly. There are probably at least two idle valves on your car, one for heavy load operation (A/C, power steering, alternator, etc.), and the other is for A/C. They bump up the airflow to the engine to counteract the power drain that those accessories cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the normal one(s) are defunct, the A/C idle valve is making up for it when engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a bad motor mount (mentioned already) would cause bad vibrations at arbitrary RPMs (usually idle!), and this would not cause a MIL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T18:29:35.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4344" CreationDate="2012-09-23T20:59:29.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the next connection. It may be the starter or a post mounted to a power distribution block in the engine bay. Check that connection for tightness and corrosion. It is possible (I had this happen in my truck) that the battery terminal to cable connection is bad. In my case it was the old molded lead style terminal. The connection would pass 12 volts but would not carry enough current to crank the starter. The other thing to check is the ground side of the circuit. Follow the ground cable to the end. It is typically attached to the block. Make sure it is tight on both ends. You may also have a ground strap or cable from the block to the body. They can be difficult to locate as they seem to put them where they can't be seen. The next time the problem occurs get out your jumper cables. Attach one clamp to the negative terminal of the battery.The color doesn't matter. Attach the corresponding clamp,(use the same color clamp) to something metal on the motor. Use an alternator bracket,a/c mount etc. then try to start the engine. If it starts you know the problem is in the ground side of the circuit, or the problem just went away as it has before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T20:59:29.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2012-09-23T23:18:47.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;as far as I can tell with this radio you may have an adapter in the glove box area.  However this may need to be installed. This would interface for play back and bluetooth for the calls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;personally I would go all aftermarket stereo and junk the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2228" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T23:18:47.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2012-09-24T03:31:43.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is only happening when the vehicle is in motion, I'd visually trace the wiring and look for a point where a wire or wire bundle is rubbing on something and has worn through the insulation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't exhibit the problem when it's parked, it's going to be hard to track down with a multimeter or test light.  Unless you can reproduce it by gently manipulating parts of your wiring harness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting tree, which will probably be in the factory service manual.  Diagrams showing connector and wire bundle locations would be nice, too (and quite possibly also in the FSM).  Other manuals will have less detailed information, but maybe enough to get you by.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to check the parts of the wiring you can get at without too much trouble and try and localize the fault.  If it's in an an inaccessible location, it may be easier to splice in a new length of wire and route it as best you can around the bad spot.  Especially if your wire of interest is in the middle of a wire bundle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a fused circuit, you should at least be able to narrow it down to which side of the fusebox the problem is on, assuming you can reproduce the short at will (don't try anything while the vehicle is in motion, you'll just win a darwin award).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a short, set your multimeter to continuity (ohms) and stick the probes on the wire you want to check (when the circuit is not powered).  A small nonzero number means you have a connection between the probes.  Check this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/continuity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T23:25:19.767" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T23:25:19.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3214" CreationDate="2012-09-24T05:51:47.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having a similar problem especially when decelerating to islands and then accelerating away, the gear box has hesitated and not changed down before accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only done 36,000 miles, so I don't beleive it is the gearbox at all I beleive its the ECU not getting the right torque settings for a particular shift pattern. Last week stopped off at local post office to pick up a parcel and when restarting the car the engine light came on and in limp mode fopr 10 minutes. I stopped the car and restarted and all appeared ok but for the engine light which stayed on for 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the initial problem the car has totally changed its driving performance, no hesitation or sticking in gears at all, turbo like acceleration throughout rev range and almost inpercetable changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe its either a small air leak in the boost line at the front of the engine, a dirty EGR valve or a clogged boost valve near the EGR. Try cleaning with carb cleaner before any drastic gearbox action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T13:33:49.373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:33:49.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2567" CreationDate="2012-09-24T07:53:07.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your codes? Could that be going to a crank sensor? If the car cannot detect the crank sensor, it will likely not start in the manner you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T07:53:07.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2012-09-24T07:55:42.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did both sides stop working? &lt;br&gt;If yes, it could be the module that sits behind the headlight switch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If no, then switch the igniter or balast from left to right to find the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T07:55:42.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2012-09-24T08:09:57.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These parts are very rigid, which makes them delicate. You have to know where the clips are, and for most cars a putty knife or some kind of wedge will work. Once the clips are popped, you replaced any broken one, and reinstall. I can't speculate on the location of the clips for your particular vehicle, but you can usually tell by feeling around the part. Be careful, as your car could also screws or other stronger parts attaching it to the body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T08:09:57.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4301" CreationDate="2012-09-24T20:40:12.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need a new air filter... I have 60k on mine and just changed the air filter... The idle is lower and not a lot of vibs... I would have vibes when I stoped and when I was at 1500 rpm. I got a k&amp;amp;n air filter form autozone for about $53 and some change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2233" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T20:40:12.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4369" CreationDate="2012-09-25T15:32:31.877" Score="5" ViewCount="7309" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a new Bosch CS-130 style alternator with a couple hundred miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I installed it, it's been a little noisy, but I attributed that to the brushes breaking in to mate with the slip rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it got worse recently and has turned to a squeak. Since I don't drive the car much, the new alternator is already out of warranty (1 year) even though I've hardly used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon close inspection, I found that the alternator squeaks during one specific part in its rotation. The squeak is coming from the brushes, not a bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the alternator and found that that the front slip ring has a strange color on one spot. It looks like excess epoxy was dripped onto&#xA;the ring during assembly, and this caused one of the brushes to wear it unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;bad&lt;/strong&gt; section looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wLW3x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad slip ring wear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the slip ring is worn evenly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Htqfq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Good slip ring wear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I repair the slip ring surface so the brush can break in properly? Can I just turn it on a lathe? What about the surface finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T19:38:32.963" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T16:22:40.403" Title="How to repair alternator slip rings to stop squeaking?" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-25T19:02:20.080" Score="4" ViewCount="2630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 01 nissan sentra which had been running hot. If i start the car in the morning and turn temp control to hot and fan on and let the car warm up, i will have no heat and the car runs hot. Just starting up and going in the morning i will have heat but when idling at a signal the air turns cool and the car begins to run hot again. I recently had a power flush and thermosat changed about 45 days ago when these problems started. Car ran fine until last week when these issues started again. Mechanic said water pump was fine but maybe it was on its last legs. My main machanic wants to replace my radiator which he will do tomorrow. Any other suggestions before that would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2234" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:04:02.680" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:04:02.680" Title="01 sentra running hot" Tags="|engine|nissan|radiator|heater|water-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4367" CreationDate="2012-09-25T20:06:59.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;repair/rebuild guide&lt;/a&gt; for the CS130 alternator. &lt;a href=&quot;http://alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage5.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Page 5&lt;/a&gt; contains the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SLIP RING SERVICING It the slip rings are dirty, they may be cleaned&#xA;  and finished with 400 grain or finer polishing cloth. Spin the rotor&#xA;  and hold the polishing cloth against the slip rings until they are&#xA;  clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAUTION: The rotor must be rotated in order that the slip rings are&#xA;  cleaned evenly. Cleaning the slip rings by hand with-out spinning the&#xA;  rotor may result in flat spots on the slip rings, causing brush noise.&#xA;  Slip rings that are rough or out of round should be trued in a lathe&#xA;  to .002 inch maximum indicator reading. Remove only enough material to&#xA;  make the rings smooth and round. Finish with 400 grain or finer&#xA;  polishing cloth and blow away all dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like reworking the slip rings consists of chucking the rotor in a lathe and turning the slip rings down just enough until they are round within 0.002&quot;, then finish to 400 grain or finer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T20:06:59.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:09:14.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have a car that would disengage the AC compressor when the engine RPM was low. This caused the AC to work fine when riding down the road, but the air would almost immediately get warm whenever I was idling in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds similar to what you are experiencing, so I'm thinking your Sentra may be using the AC compressor for the heater. This will generally happen if you have the HEAT set to Defrost, but not if you have it to Floor. Newer, high end cars seem to use the AC compressor anytime the fan is turned on. (This seems wasteful to me, but I guess you buy a luxury car you expect plush all the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case (your HEAT is set to Defrost or Vent that is using the AC compressor), then you have a 2 fold issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One is your AC compressor is acting up. This is no big deal, but it would cause your car to stop pulling heat from the engine when the engine RPMs are low. This could possibly be fixed with a new AC compressor clutch. I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other is the engine heat issue. Since you say you have already flushed the radiator and installed a new thermostat, I would be looking out for either a crack in the engine head or a blown head gasket. This would cause heat from the combustion cycle to go straight to the coolant instead of blowing out the exhaust, and your radiator can not pull that amount of heat out of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just things to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really think it would be the radiator, unless it has been patched before and has several dead circuits in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:09:14.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:19:17.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I need to get a carb kit and just haven't gotten around to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carb kit for a 1975 Honda may be harder to find than you think. You'd better start searching for that now or maybe even a used carburetor, if you can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the obvious one: Something did not seal when you worked on your carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull it apart again. You missed something, and it could be something very tiny like Over/Under tightening some part or getting gasket material in the way or not in the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know (or can find) anyone who is good at rebuilding carbs, it would be a big plus to get with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:19:17.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4380" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:25:14.667" Score="3" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving from a warm climate (Florida) to a colder one (Washington). Are there any preparations that need to be done for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Suzuki Vitara 2004&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am not driving to FL to WA, I just want to know if the car needs special conditioning to prepare for the colder climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2235" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-09-27T10:11:20.573" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T10:11:20.573" Title="Moving from FL to WA, anything I need to prepare my car for?" Tags="|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4021" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:59:53.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part on the picture is called &quot;Companion flange&quot; as per Saab's own electronic part catalogue (EPC) - number 7 on the drawing below. I'm not sure which one in particular you need, so here's the drawing itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pQSQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pQSQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check whether your engine type is among the listed above. Part numbers are listed on the right, and you can use those when ordering the components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for Saab 9-3 first generation, which includes your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:59:53.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:10:19.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;spark plug was dirty&quot; you mean &quot;black and sooty&quot; then you're running rich and need to either lean out your mixture or double-check your air cleaner and make sure it's good.  I know my old 73 CL125 would occasionally accumulate an impressive amount of dead leaves and pine needles around the screen of the air filter.  Only took a few seconds to pop off the side panel and brush them off, and made a noticeable difference in sound and power (such as it was).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:10:19.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:20:22.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the carb have vacuum secondaries?  If so, check the spring that holds the secondaries closed.  If it's weak, then the secondaries are opening too early and flooding the engine.  You might also want to check your air filter and its housing, it's possible the filter is dirty or you got some kind of obstruction in the cold air intake somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:20:22.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:33:18.553" Score="0" ViewCount="1423" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Nissan Altima 2002 (106873 miles). It used to smooth after oil changes. But, I have been noticing that the car is not smooth as it used to be after oil changes. It used to feel like the car was flowing like water now it feel like I'm driving a cart (not exactly). But, what I can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2207" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:21:09.270" Title="Car driving experience not smooth" Tags="|engine|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4329" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:36:18.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be lots of things.  Fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, catalytic converter, O2 sensor(s), fuel injectors, fuel filter, even spark plug wires.  I'd start by replacing the cheapest things first (distributor, plugs, wires and fuel filter) and see if that helps.  Also pull the catalytic converter and see if there's any obvious damage inside.  Anything else you'll probably have to take it to a mechanic who knows about these cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:36:18.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4382" CreationDate="2012-09-26T17:00:04.620" Score="3" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a '94 Chevy truck with a bad radiator leak (which may be unrelated). Yesterday and today I pulled off of the highway and the street light on the exit was green meaning I didn't have to come to a complete stop. When I slowed down for the turn and put it into 2nd gear it was as if only one cylinder was firing. I basically had no acceleration except for an intermittent jolt forward, every second or so. I came to a full stop in the intersection and then was able to go forward in first gear and then it was like nothing happened except for the engine temperature was in the red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T18:00:15.163" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T10:36:16.447" Title="My truck is not accelerating when going to low gear from high gear" Tags="|chevrolet|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2012-09-26T19:42:56.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back to O.E.M (original equipment manufactured).   The four types of plugs are copper, platinum, double platinum, iridium.  The type of ignition system should be your first variable to the question.  Old ignition systems had one coil that provided spark to 8 plugs. They survived off the copper plugs, they would require to be replaced at the 2 yr interval, sometimes one year for excessive driving.   Today they are called coil packs, some packs serve 2 plugs or 4 plugs depending on cylinder configuration.  Newer ignition systems have 6 or 8 individual coils for each plug-some of these types require iridium tips. None the less, go with your O.E.M.  Natural gas engines run better with copper even some manuals specify otherwise. It is wise to use anti-seize to prevent plugs from &quot;welding&quot; themselves to your cylinder head.   Some engine blocks are aluminum some are iron, some are steel and when they are mixed with a different metal, they tend to add challenge for removal. I'm not even going to talk about Ford engines, they are known for blowing out their plugs while driving-what a nightmare. Extracting a broken plug without proper tools and potentially damaging the plug thread. Spend the 1.00 and buy a small pack of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T10:00:44.247" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T10:00:44.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2012-09-26T21:20:05.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has been well maintained you just need a few small changes. The coolant that protected your engine from Florida heat will protect it from Washingtons' cold. If you will be driving in snow on a regular basis, you may want snow tires or all season tires, especially if this will be your first experience driving in snow. Make sure the windshield washer fluid you use contains a deicer, winter wiper blades may also be a good idea. Pick up a snowbrush and a windshield icescraper. Remember when clearing the snow off your vehicle to clear all of it off. If you leave snow on the roof, it will fly off at highway speeds,potentally causing an accident if it hits another vehicle.Some people suggest keeping the fuel tank at least 1/2 full,just in case you get stuck or the roads get bogged down during a storm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T21:20:05.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-26T23:09:05.490" Score="2" ViewCount="5967" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Ford Crown Victoria&lt;br&gt;&#xA;V8 Engine&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dual exhaust&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 cats &amp;amp; O2 sensors per side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since some time last year I've been getting an error code throw up, with seemingly no regularity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P2197 - O2 stuck lean - Bank 2 Sensor 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thought was to replace the sensor, so that's new but didn't fix the problem. It doesn't happen much when it's hot and dry, primarily when it's cold and/or damp out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a bluetooth OBD-II live scanner, and looking at the values as I drive, I've learned that, when it does happen, the O2 voltages are pretty much normal, though they'll kind of &quot;stick&quot; on B2-S1 to a number (different each time) whereas B1-S1 will fluctuate normally. I've seen anywhere from &lt;code&gt;.06v&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;.94v&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, the short-term fuel trim will lock even tighter to a number, and stay that way until it all clears. Most common is &lt;code&gt;32.8%&lt;/code&gt;, but there is some variance from about &lt;code&gt;30%&lt;/code&gt; - &lt;code&gt;55%&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll start normally, then within about 10-30 seconds lock onto these numbers, stay that way for about a minute, then return to normal ranges for both voltage and trim. If the car is started cold then it won't throw a code, but if it's still warm then it will often trigger the MIL and store the freeze-frame data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what's actually wrong, how to fix it, or more diagnostics to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My #1 thought is a vacuum leak somewhere, and I have an idea of which chunk of hose it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be, but I haven't had a chance to find a new one to replace it with. My other thought is the computer having some values stored wrong that I would need to reset (just disconnect the battery). I only thought of this one a day ago and haven't had the time to do it yet and still go on a long enough drive to relearn shift points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T03:58:13.573" Title="High short term fuel trim on one side when starting car?" Tags="|exhaust|o2-sensor|ford-panther-platform|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4378" CreationDate="2012-09-27T10:36:16.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it is entirely related to the radiator leak - it sounds from the description like your engine has massively overheated, probably resulting in the headgasket blowing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check under the oil cap, is it full of a mayonnaise-like sludge? Also check your coolant ( or what is left of it) for signs of oil. Either of those are a key sign of HG failure. As Bob's comment suggests, a lot of smoke is another likely symptom, usually white steam from coolant getting into the bores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, the next step is to do a compression test, which will likely confirm it, as there is a good chance that the loss of power is due to a loss of compression on several cylinders. In a healthy engine, all cylinders will show similar compression values, somewhere in the region of 150psi for a petrol/gasoline engine, more for a Diesel - a decent compression testing kit will show the ideal range on the dial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, you won't have warped anything, although it is usually recommended to get the head(s) skimmed when doing a gasket change, especially after overheating. This simply takes a thin layer off the bottom of the head to ensure it is flat and true. I have seen engines sieze up completely after overheating, but it doesn't sound like yours got that bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T10:36:16.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4384" CreationDate="2012-09-27T13:55:53.273" Score="14" ViewCount="30435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it is better for your suspension to drive across a speed bump at a right angle (so that the two front tires and the two rear tires hit the bump at the same time, respectively), or at a skewed angle so that only one tire at a time hits the bump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen folks do both things and I'm wondering if there is a real significance to it or if it's just superstition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2240" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-09-27T14:16:54.103" LastActivityDate="2023-10-07T11:01:53.630" Title="Is it better to drive across a speed bump at a right angle or slightly skewed?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4383" CreationDate="2012-09-27T14:22:11.567" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving at a right angle will make the front and then the rear move further up and down than travelling over one wheel at a time, but that movement will be in one plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving diagonally puts more stress on the chassis as it tries to twist first one corner then then next. The car will not move up and down so much, but will move sideways a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So of the two options, the least stress on the car comes from driving straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T14:22:11.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4383" CreationDate="2012-09-27T16:39:51.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why you should be approaching the bump at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical stress on the chassis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take two approaches and study how they affect the chassis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let's drive at the right angle (frontal). The chassis will always be stressed in one direction: front to back. The chassis is never stressed from side to side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now let's try approaching the bump at an angle. The car is stressed in both directions, front to rear and side to side. The stress is evenly distributed to both axes but only if you hit the exact angle. This angle should be the one when your front left and rear right wheel align so that they form a line which is perpendicular to the bump axis (this is assuming that you are approaching with your left wheel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very important to remember that you should switch the wheel you're first approaching the bump. Bumps usually come in pairs (at least here in Bosnia) so this should not be a problem. If the bumps do not come in pairs, you should randomize and try not to remember your last approach. This, on the long term, will ensure even distribution of approaches on both sides. A bit of mathematics can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical stress on rims&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the sidewalks, the bumps are better approached at an angle as this kind of approach eases the stress on tires and wheel rims. You'll never hear anyone suggest you take the frontal approach to these. Sidewalks are a bit different from bumps, but the same laws apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Your car bumpers are very low&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your front or rear bumpers are lower than usual, you should approach the bumps at an angle. This will allow you to pass over bumps more smoothly and lower the chances of hitting the bump with your bumpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try riding over the bumps at an angle and see &lt;strong&gt;if you're more comfortable sitting in the car&lt;/strong&gt; that way. If you are - &lt;strong&gt;your car most certainly is as well&lt;/strong&gt;. It's the common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2167" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T16:39:51.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-27T19:46:59.477" Score="2" ViewCount="2554" Body="&lt;p&gt;my GF's Honda Accord has recently begun acting up in regards to its cruise control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;holding down the switch, the light turns on, however pressing set, accel, or decel, does not do anything, the car acts as if cruise control was off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;releasing the switch, the light turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read about testing the switch while honking the horn, this does not help the switch retain its pressed state, and does not affect the set/accel/decel buttons not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally am skilled enough that I feel I could make any reasonable repairs, and we are going on a 900 mile trip in 2 weeks, (of which 700 miles is straight road thru nowhere) - so having it fixed by then would be a huge help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any advice and or resources available? so far google results all seem to either say the switch (which would mean that the set button should still work) is broken, or that the PCB is damaged, which would make the cruise control light not work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2241" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:31:13.280" Title="Honda Accord 2Door Coupe 2004 - Cruise Control Problem" Tags="|honda|accord|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4340" CreationDate="2012-09-27T20:37:33.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps not really an answer, but I always wonder why people would rather put additional wear on an expensive, difficult to repair/replace, non-consumable item (driveline components) rather than on easy to replace consumable items (brake parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;answer&quot; is thus to reconsider your entire strategy and prefer your brakes over engine braking whenever possible, lest the amount of money you save on brakes makes an appearance (with compounded interest) somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T20:37:33.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4386" CreationDate="2012-09-27T21:31:13.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most people are aware pressing the brake pedal deactivates the cruise control.I don't know about Accords but some vehicles use a second switch on the brake pedal arm for the cruise cut off. If this is your case your brake lights would work but the cruise control would be disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:31:13.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4392" CreationDate="2012-09-28T01:12:54.077" Score="5" ViewCount="65344" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front disc on my motorcycle emits a low pitch squeaking noise when I'm pulling up to a complete stop (almost like the sound train brakes make when pulling up to a station). This only happens when I am going rather slow - if I use the brake at high speed it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake itself feels fine, responsive and smooth and I've felt the rotor for wear and it feels fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned about this at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T08:28:56.500" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T01:11:47.413" Title="Squeaking brakes on motorcycle - an issue or not?" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2012-09-28T08:02:14.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long have the pads been on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for Glazing, wear and dust build up.  You could also have a small stone lodged next to the pad in the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the brake discs scored? Excessive scoring can cause this noise too.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFAl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scored brake disc&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dealing with issues with brakes - never leave them alone.  Always check them out, if it turns out to be nothing then you've lost a few minutes of your life, if it turns out to be something big you may have saved your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T08:02:14.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2012-09-28T19:29:00.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most brake pads use some sort of shim or spring to stop the pad from oscillating,aka making noise. What generally causes the noise is a small amount of movement by the pad at a very high frequency. Manufacturers eliminate this with shims,springs or a soft material that acts as a dampener. It is possible that one of these has failed from time,use or enviromental exposure. Another possibility is the pads are contaminated with oil splashed up from the road.The pad material is a blend or compounds that offer different traits in terms of wear,stopping power,noise etc. You may have a pad in which the material was not blended evenly and you are encountering hard spots that is causing the squeal. Another possibility is that the pads are equipped with a wear sensor. This is a small metal tab attached to the pad that rubs on the rotor when the pad is worn to the minimum usable thickness. The tab will rub at all speeds but may be audible only at slower speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T21:28:18.873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T21:28:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-28T20:43:56.550" Score="10" ViewCount="8140" Body="&lt;p&gt;In changing the spark plugs in my 2000 Ford Mustang GT (4.6L), I sheared one of them (number 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ceramic is totally removed, as is the hex nut. The threaded portion as well as the ground electrode remain screwed into the head (and moderately corroded due to a previously unknown leak)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001007I1348880359267900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pictures to describe what I'm looking at.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been soaking the bugger in PB Blaster for the past two days and am going to attempt an extraction tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having not worked on cars, but being a mechanically inclined person, I've been scouring the net for information and tips on both spark plug extractions and head removals. But the extraction it looks like a one and done deal. Either it works or the whole head is coming off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the whole weekend to remove the head, so time is not an issue. My limitations are tools, and experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings me to my question: &#xA;Is it worth the expense to take it to a professional for extraction? Or would he run into the same problems I would? Finally if extraction fails, would you recommend removing the head as a means of experience gathering, a DIY accomplishment, and a money saver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is incredibly helpful and full of more information for people who stumble on this problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/234/what-is-the-proper-way-to-extract-a-broken-sparkplug?rq=1&quot;&gt;What is the proper way to extract a broken sparkplug?&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spec sheet specific to 2000 Mustang&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/330270-spark-plugged-stripped-2000-mustang-gt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A nice helpful link from a forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Bad news. Will update tonight with new pictures...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;////////BIG EDIT////////&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is a number of months after this whole ordeal and with the help of a mechanic/buddy I managed to get through it, here is the full scoop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I called and got an estimate from the local Ford dealership, they said they have a special tool to get it out and they will do it for $250, $2500 for worst case (head removal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, at the time I didn't feel like a &quot;special tool&quot;,&quot;mechanical expertise&quot;, and &quot;decades more experience&quot; was worth $250, so I went to buy an extraction kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought the extraction kit, and it was about 3/4&quot; round (pictures) and had a funny mating, so I headed on down to Harbor Freight (right down the street luckily) and after explaining what was needed (lots of depth, little width, still able to produce torque) I was given a multitude of sockets, extenders, connectors, adapters, and had myself a nice long spark plug extraction kit ready to go. Cue excitement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well I went to town extracting this bad boy, learning on the way how an extractor is supposed to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extractor &lt;em&gt;digs&lt;/em&gt; into the center of the bolt/screw and continues to bore into it until the force require to dig into it further is less than that required to tighten it (in which case it will tighten). This usually will allow for removal of the extractor and thus, the bolt/screw. But I only hoped it was this simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept digging in and in feeling resistance, but not getting any sort of traction or tightening that I should have been feeling. That did not stop me. I kept grinding and screwing and turning with a big ass breaker bar trying to get this free. Didn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I figured that it was stuck. I figured there must have been some hardcore gunk built up in these threads and I let it soak in PB blaster overnight while I thought of a solution. I finally came up with this (retrospect:&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;) genius solution. I'd hit it with some heat. Things would expand/contract a bit at different rates and I might be able to get it free!&#xA;So I hit it with a handheld torch (Surprisingly cheap at Lowe's) frustrating because the head of the torch wouldn't remain lit while upside down (down near the stuck hexbolt). After about 30 min on the flames it was the moment of truth. I rigged up my extractomatic and laid all I had into this breaker bar. Nothing, nothing, nothing, then a audible pop. I danced in triumph as I had broken that damn hex bolt free. There was little to no resistance now and I was sure I could just ratchet that bit out now and slap a new plug in and be on my way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually &lt;strong&gt;didn't&lt;/strong&gt; break the hex free, and nothing was coming out. No hex, no extractor, it was all stuck in there. To top it all off I dropped the only crucial socket that I didn't have a backup for somewhere in the valley of my engine. In a fit of rage, I threw my tools down and called for a tow. &#xA;I told the mechanic (not my buddy) to remove the head and tell me what he saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWG56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;{picture}&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I blew out the backend of my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait you say! If you blew out the backend of your head, what were you extracting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMpPw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;{picture}&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I confirmed with the mechanic that the only way I was extracting &lt;strong&gt;directly into the piston head&lt;/strong&gt; was that it was in the absolute top position (think 1/100,000,000). I ended up buying a replacement head, ignoring the mechanic's advice on replacing the engine (due to the scored piston) and replaced the head with a mechanicfriend in exchange for some computer work he needed done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic said the car wouldn't run 10 miles on a scored piston. Some youtube videos, a couple bucks for tools, elbow grease and a mechanic friend and it seems to be doing fine. I've put 7,000 on it and am glad it hasn't blown up yet :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T14:37:31.343" Title="Estimate for head removal / reinstall" Tags="|engine|ford|sparkplugs|mustang|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4393" CreationDate="2012-09-28T21:48:04.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a case of what is your time worth and how long can you be without a car. I would try self extraction first. Short of breaking the extracter off in the remaining plug you can't make it worse. I have a couple of suggestions if you are doing it yourself. When I have a situation like this I soak a rag in PB blaster and wrap it around the fitting. The rag keeps it wet longer. The other tip is to vacum out the hole if you get it out.Some metal fragments may be in cylinder. In terms of taking the head off yourself, the plug will still be stuck. That will require taking it to a machine shop for extraction. Then reinstalling it. So figure one day to take it apart. One or two days at the machine shop. Then two or three days to get it together after you have worked allday. Head removal is a pretty straight forward task. Just keep taking off bolts until it comes off. Installation is a different story. This a job where an assembly mistake can be catastophic for the engine. It will require some basic hand tools and a torque wrench. You'll also have to drain the radiator and changing the oil afterwards is a good idea. In my opinion this is not a task for someone without some automotive experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T21:48:04.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-29T19:45:39.380" Score="2" ViewCount="21526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old riding lawn mower (B&amp;amp;S 12HP).  To start it, I had to jump it from a car.  The battery also looked old, so I replaced it with a new one.  When I tried to start it with the new battery, all I got was a little half-turn sound from the engine, and then nothing.  Subsequent attempts yielded nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed that since I had been able to jump the mower from a car, all I should need would be a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the old battery's voltage with a multimeter and got 5V.  I tested the new one and got 12V.  That's the limit of my diagnostic skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for what to look at next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2248" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T14:38:34.687" Title="Riding mower won't start with new battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4395" CreationDate="2012-09-29T20:43:02.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attach your voltmeter to the battery. While the starter is trying to turn check the voltage reading. It should be between 9.5 and 10volts while cranking. If the reading is lower either the starter is bad or one of the battery connections is loose corroded. If it has an external solenoid/relay it may be the problem also. The solenoid will be a relay mounted to the frame, verify that it is bolted securely as it requires a good frame  ground. The positive battery cable attaches to one side and a similar cable goes from the relay to the starter. You can trouble shoot the solenoid by attaching an automotive jumper cable from one terminal on the relay to the other. Wear eye protection and be prepared for some sparks. If the starter spins normally the relay is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T20:43:02.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4393" CreationDate="2012-09-29T21:37:10.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's not going to be easy. You can try it yourself, say by drilling a hole and trying to extract it with special drill bits--because that's all a specialist is going to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you're going to get debris in the combustion chamber, so having a shop do this might be prudent. Some shops will remove the head which will allow the stuck plug to be accessible form both sides, and if debris is going in there this also allows it to be cleared out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether that debris will actually do any damage depends on how big and how much goes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my suggestion isn't much different that the first one. However, be sure to use anti-seize on your spark plugs, it can help prevent this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T21:37:10.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4399" CreationDate="2012-09-30T02:09:39.940" Score="4" ViewCount="101073" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question seems to be attracting a lot of views, so I guess a lot of people are having the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, the problem with MY fans specifically seemed to be caused by my new temp sensor being faulty. &lt;em&gt;This isn't likely to be your problem&lt;/em&gt;, but don't rule it out. There are some other great diagnostics suggested below for other possible reasons the fans aren't running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a bigger problem with overheating with this car, even after the fans were running correctly. The stock engine comes with a plastic intake manifold gasket, which is prone to failure. It leaks coolant into the cylinders and causes inefficiency in the cooling system, leading to low coolant and overheating. You can replace this gasket with a metal one, the repair is a little involved but I managed with a Haynes manual. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT (6 cy/3.4L) has been having cooling issues. I started by replacing the thermostat and performing a flush &amp;amp; fill on the radiator. This didn't seem to resolve the issue -- the engine still overheats when at a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lead me to suspect the fans, so I tested the fans themselves (independent dual electric cooling fans). They do not start when the engine is warm... this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wired each fan directly to the battery, both function correctly. Next, I checked the relays, both tested operational. If I disconnect the temperature sensor, both fans come on immediately. So, I replaced the temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem persists; the engine will reach 200, the thermostat opens (determined by watching the temp. gauge), but the fans do not start. If I disconnect the (new!) temperature sensor, both fans start. I have read that turning the air conditioning on should also cause the fans to turn on, this does not happen (with the temp. sensor plugged in), not when then engine is cool or hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at my wits end as to what to check next. I am prepared instead to hardwire the fans to the ignition switch. &lt;strong&gt;Can anyone give me any ideas of any further diagnostic steps before I give up and take the &quot;duct tape solution&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt; This is my wife's daily driver, so the pressure is on! Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2250" LastEditorUserId="2250" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T15:37:21.180" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T15:46:42.033" Title="Cooling fans not running" Tags="|pontiac|cooling-system|grand-am|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2012-09-30T02:18:10.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't be discouraged by a new part not working. My family runs a shop, and we get defective parts all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a table located &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/pontiac/5sm27-pontiac-grand-se-1999-pontiac-grandam-3-4l-cooling-fans.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that shows diagnostic steps you can take. It's for a 1999 model, but 1999-2001 are virtually the same (I own a 2001 G/T model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T02:18:10.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4401" CreationDate="2012-09-30T08:00:26.090" Score="4" ViewCount="1598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving an Opel Corsa-C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some weeks ago the heater stopped working properly. When I turn it on now, I get warm air for less than a minute. After that it's getting cold again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm driving faster than 140 km/h it's getting warm again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts can I check to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any filters or fuses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2252" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T23:39:53.727" Title="Heater: High temperature only on high speed" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2012-09-30T23:39:53.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your heater, like most cars, works from the heater core. It sounds like your thermostat is opening up if you can get air for a minute, but it goes back off. The thermostat may be closing again, or there me be a blockage in the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wanting to try replacing parts, I would start with the thermostat first. They're usually pretty cheap, and most people can even put them in themselves. Heater cores, on the other hand, can be a pain to deal with. Most of them are under the dash, and can only be taken out by taking parts of the dash out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what's the temperatures like there? Has antifreeze been put into the car? List more symptoms and details in your question if you can think of any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T23:39:53.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4381" CreationDate="2012-10-01T03:02:57.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From everything I see in this paper, it seems that it may be related to a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr - Check your vacuum lines and make sure none of them are cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HWLoQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;P2197 Page 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRnD3.png&quot; alt=&quot;P2197 Page 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lqhos.png&quot; alt=&quot;P2197 Page 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some more ideas &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modularfords.com/f79/p2197-o2-sensor-signal-stuck-lean-93366/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;P2197&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean Detailed&#xA;  Description A heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) indicating lean at the end&#xA;  of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test&#xA;  fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a&#xA;  calibrated amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Possible Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Electrical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Water in the harness connector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Open/shorted HO2S circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Damaged HO2S.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Damaged powertrain control module (PCM).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fuel System:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Excessive fuel pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Leaking fuel pressure regulator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Vapor recovery system. Induction System:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Air leaks after the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Vacuum Leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;PCV system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EGR System:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Leaking gasket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stuck EGR valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Leaking diaphragm or EVR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Base Engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Oil overfill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cam Timing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cylinder compression.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T03:02:57.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4307" CreationDate="2012-10-01T04:50:10.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the relay for the wiper timing is on the fritz. It's a possibility that it could be in the switch itself, but you also wouldn't be able to turn it on continuous mode if it were the switch. It's either a blown fuse leading to the relay, or the relay itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T04:50:10.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4405" CreationDate="2012-10-01T06:49:18.390" Score="1" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the recommended driving speed for a petrol car with manual transmission to have maximum fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in India AFAIK it is 60 Kmph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2254" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T21:19:29.230" Title="recommended driving speed for maximum fuel efficiency" Tags="|fuel-system|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2012-10-01T09:02:11.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say as it depends on various conditions like the gearing of your car but on a perfectly flat road, I'd say put the car into the highest gear and take your foot off the throttle. The speed the car settles down to is just about your most efficient cruising speed: Highest gear, no throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T09:02:11.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2012-10-01T09:34:47.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no 'per-country' recommended driving speed for fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the shape of your car, your engine size and type, the type of fuel you use, the quality of the roads etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car for example, in top gear I can get 37 mpg at 60mph and it has a gentle drop up to about 75mph, but the efficiency drops off rapidly over 75mph (35mpg at 75 down to 22mpg at 90mph, and dropping further as I get faster) so I tend to use 70 as my general target despite getting slightly better efficiency at a lower speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T09:34:47.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4419" CreationDate="2012-10-01T16:17:58.420" Score="2" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4cyl 2001 Toyota Camry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotix.net/usedautoparts/2001-toyota-camry-wheel-product-wmt829328.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rims.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they're an aluminum alloy. I have a matching set of 4 DUNLOP tires rated for 44 PSI. I'll edit this post with specifics momentarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were last checked for tire pressure 2,900 miles ago, one of the tires had a staple in it which punctured the tire. This leak was plugged and the tire was filled (as were the other three tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tire looked quite low (although not so low that it was worrying me) - I decided to check the pressure and the tires were as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front-left: 30.5 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front-right: 20.5 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear-right: 10.5 PSI (this is the one that looked low; it is also the tire which was plugged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear left - 35.9 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I topped them all off to 40 PSI on Saturday. By today [Monday] the tire which was at 10.5 PSI is already down to 35 PSI. (All other tires are fairly stable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what is the normal rate of air leakage for tires / alloy rims? And how can I diagnose leaks around the rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will have the tire itself checked, to make sure the area surrounding the plug is not leaking (and to ensure there are no new obstructions) this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 10.5 PSI is quite low, is it low enough that I should consider that tire to be damaged? What are some signs of premature wear to look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All four tires are &lt;em&gt;brand new&lt;/em&gt;, they were put on the car by the previous owner before I purchased it (2,900 miles ago; give or take).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:16:22.957" Title="Finding Cause of Slow Tire Leak 2001 Camry" Tags="|tires|wheels|leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4414" CreationDate="2012-10-01T17:40:02.487" Score="2" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 with 4wd.  The front end is getting a bit loose (recently replaced wheel bearings) and I am thinking about replacing the tie rods and related components prior to taking the car in for new tires &amp;amp; alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How difficult is replacing the tie rods?  Is this something a fairly competent DIYer can do at home, with a decent set of tools?   Will I need any special tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T00:48:59.380" Title="Replacing tie rods on Mazda B4000 (aka Ford Ranger)" Tags="|suspension|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2012-10-01T18:20:24.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to diagnose leaks is to use something like Windex. Spray it on the tire and around the rim. If you see any bubbles, that's where the air is leaking from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T18:20:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2012-10-01T18:23:13.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hook your temp sender up to a meter and drop it in some boiling water.  This should tell you if it's working or not.  Personally, I'd just disconnect it until you get the issue figured out -- running the fans continuously isn't going to hurt anything, it'll just be loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T18:23:13.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9228" CreationDate="2012-10-01T20:02:07.377" Score="4" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 cars, car A and car B.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Car B is 20% heavier than car A.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We all know that this means that these 2 cars will have same power if car B at the same RPM (revolution) has 20% more Nm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the torque be mathematically equated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if car A has torque of 100/1500 and car B has torque of 150/1750. Can we deduct the 2nd value (150/1750) to &lt;code&gt;x / 1500&lt;/code&gt;? Is this the mathematically correct way to determine the torque decrease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I did not write this clearly, please ask me to clarify. This data is very important to me and I was unable to find this info on the Net. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2258" LastEditorUserId="2247" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T01:15:59.010" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T23:07:42.267" Title="Does torque decrease mathematically?" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2012-10-01T21:19:29.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;best fuel economy values&quot; range (according to tests I've read) from 40-55mph depending on the vehicle and conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T21:19:29.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4228" CreationDate="2012-10-02T00:20:52.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the problem that was going on was that the alignment was off. I'm not entirely sure why it didn't happen to begin with, but after fixing the alignment (And replacing the tires), the problem went away completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T00:20:52.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4408" CreationDate="2012-10-02T00:48:59.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need some basic hand tools along with one or two specialty tools. If you are doing the outers ,you will need a tierod end tool commonly called a pickle fork. Generally they are under $20 however some of the national parts chains have a loaner program. If you are doing the inner tierod ends also, you will need a inner tie rod tool. This looks like a really long socket. They come in two varieties, model specific or a multi vehicle kit. The model specific type can be had for under $25 the multi use one can go for $150 for a complete kit. When you replace the outers measure from the center of the grease fitting to the edge of the jamb nut. Write down the distance for each side as they will be different. I mark it on the frame so I can see it while I screw in the new one. Screw in the new one so you maintain the original length. The inners will require you to remove the bellows from around the the shaft(be careful you will be reusing it) using the inner tierod tool unscrew the tierod from the rack end. You must support the rack end while breaking the nut loose or you can twist the rack. Installation is the opposite of removal. Then get the front end aligned. One other point the wrench sizes of the OEM and the aftermarket tierods may be different, so verify sizes before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T00:48:59.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2012-10-02T02:04:41.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loss of 2-3 pounds a month is reasonable. This will vary with ambient temperature changes. If the outside temp. is 75 degrees when the tire is filled and 30 degrees when it is rechecked the loss may be more. Conversely if the tire is filled when it is 30 degrees  and rechecked at 75 degrees it may be higher. Tire pressure should be checked monthly. Many low profile tires show little evidence of low pressure due to the short sidewall. When you see a statement to check the tire pressure when cold it refers to the tire being at ambient temperature, and not having been driven for several hours. To determine the extent of damage from running under inflated the tire must be removed from the rim and the interior examined for evidence of damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T02:04:41.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4418" CreationDate="2012-10-02T02:47:45.447" Score="7" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I prepare car for winter in terms of anti-rust protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone told me that I can spray car with mix of ATF and WD-40. This way oil can creep into all the small places in car's body and protect it against rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true?&#xA;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T08:51:04.540" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T12:35:09.023" Title="Oil spray against rust" Tags="|rust|winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4416" CreationDate="2012-10-02T12:21:46.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that you can do that, but you're probably better off buying a properly formulated anti-rust product such as 'Waxoil' or similar. These can either be sprayed or brushed onto the underside of the car depending on the product in question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T12:21:46.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2012-10-02T12:27:18.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sly's technique is a good one for diagnosing leaks, but you may find it difficult to spot if the leak is too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a persistent leak on one particular wheel, it may be that there is some corrosion or foreign particle contamination on the inside of the wheel rim - this prevents the tyre from sealing properly against the rim and allows the air to slowly seep out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any decent tyre place should be able to take the tyre off, clean the edge of the rim and tyre and re-seat it - many now add a white 'goo' sealant to help combat this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T12:27:18.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-02T13:25:32.113" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled up the codes from my 94 spirit that's been running sluggish and unresponsive lately. I got a 24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V. I put a new TPS in and I'm still getting this code. Do I have to unplug the battery and let my computer reset? I keep seeing videos saying you can adjust your TPS but I'm not sure how they do it by moving it. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:20:56.837" Title="94' Dodge Spirit 3.0l v6 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V" Tags="|engine|cel|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2012-10-02T14:33:33.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same problem.  You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01.  This video will show you the problem in great detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses.  You may want to have that checked out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:33:33.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-02T21:43:58.633" Score="0" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the service schedule for replacing the transmission filter for a 94-96 B-Body with a 4L60E automatic transmission is an interval in miles only.  I don't have the number handy at the moment, and a quick search didn't turn up a definitive number.  I'll update later with the exact number from the FSM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the vehicle is a Garage Queen that gets very few miles put on it, should the fluid and / or filter be changed on a time interval instead?  If so, I suspect the filter would be good longer than the fluid.  For a filter with maybe 15,000 miles on it, would it be ok to change the fluid without dropping the pan and changing the filter?  Via &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3599/4l60e-fluid-change&quot;&gt;incremental pumping&lt;/a&gt; out of one of the cooler lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This application does have a an oil-to-air transmission cooler.  Does that have any impact on the life of the fluid?  Especially if the vehicle is driven long enough to boil moisture out of the fluid occasionally?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:52:51.367" Title="Transmission fluid and filter change: Miles or time? Or both?" Tags="|b-body|4l60e|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2012-10-03T02:38:08.283" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PIN code is 6789 (instead of 0000 or 1234).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="13744" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T18:26:30.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:26:30.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4440" CreationDate="2012-10-03T11:19:21.070" Score="0" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be tools needed to extract the previous stereo system (K7 + radio) and I have a a doubt about the necessity of unplugging the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T14:33:31.730" Title="How to replace a BMW E36 318 TDS's stereo?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4429" CreationDate="2012-10-03T11:54:50.747" Score="6" ViewCount="9725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Primera P12, which is equipped with anti-lock brakes (ABS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I normally brake, wheels don't lock and car comes to a stop as expected with any ABS system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although if I'm travelling a bit fast and hit the brake hard (want to stop in a panic) car seems to forget about ABS and lock the wheels then slip. This happens especially when it's raining and the road is wet and a bit slippery (where ABS supposed to be more useful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no warning lights flashing on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal behaviour? Or should I check the ABS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:15:00.387" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:15:00.387" Title="Is it possible to lock wheels when ABS is working?" Tags="|brakes|nissan|braking|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4424" CreationDate="2012-10-03T11:58:39.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To tell you specific details, like when it should be changed, I'll need a specific model. &quot;94-96 B-Body&quot; covers a pretty good range (Impala, Impala SS, Caprice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will warn you, though. Most cars (and trucks these days) don't have a plug built into the transmission pan to let the fluid drain, so you'll more than likely have to drop the pan anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oh1OX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4L60E Transmission Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that this may be the case with this particular transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T11:58:39.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4427" CreationDate="2012-10-03T14:20:31.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get all 4 to lock at the same time then systems that detect differences between wheels won't activate.  The system would have to be smart enough to detect exceptionally fast stopping of the wheels in order to work in that circumstance.  My MR2 and Eclipse are definitely not that smart.  Both are very capable of locking all 4 at the same time and skidding.  However, get one wheel on ice (or unloaded, such as hitting a large bump) and the rest on tarmac and then the system activates (which is rather unfortunate as it seems to extend the stopping distance instead of reducing it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T14:20:31.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-04T01:27:14.837" Score="7" ViewCount="134614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '93 Acura Integra with automatic transmission. Ever since I got it some time ago the car has been vibrating a lot when stopped at a light, for example. The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral, but it's present in both cases and slowly goes away as I drive and get closer to 2k rpm --- car idles close to 1k rpm. Also the problem is worse with a warm engine/transmission than when it is cold, presumably because at higher temperatures it idles at lower rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I noticed recently that the engine mounts were bad, so I replaced them. This only made the problem worse. Someone suggested I try injector cleaning fluid and that seemed to have made a difference, but only until I was done with that one tank of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this behavior? Should I check the fuel filter or the injection system? Could this be a problem with the transmission and if so, what exactly could be going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] At some point when I was doing front axle work (one of the CV joints needed replaced, probably went bad due to the broken mounts) I noticed that there is some decent play in the differential. I understand &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; play is normal, but I'm also noticing sometimes, after I turn off the engine and release the brake the car will &quot;shift&quot; a few inches forward or backward before settling. Could this be related to the vibration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T08:14:14.547" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T08:56:32.643" Title="Strong vibrations when idling even after replacing engine mounts (automatic transmission)" Tags="|automatic-transmission|vibration|fuel-injection|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4427" CreationDate="2012-10-04T07:20:50.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The newer the car the better ABS tends to be, but you can lock up even the best ones if you try hard. On sheet ice it is safer to disable your ABS entirely unless you have a system which is designed for these conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeing a bad crash where a long slide into a collision was caused by ABS not allowing any grip, I remove the fuse for ABS each winter when the snow starts to turn to ice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T07:20:50.340" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4433" CreationDate="2012-10-04T17:57:25.043" Score="4" ViewCount="5071" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does a 2004 Chevy Malibu have a cabin air filter?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, where would it be located?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often should a cabin air filter be changed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2267" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:01:01.523" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:01:01.523" Title="Does a 2004 Chevy Malibu have a cabin air filter" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2012-10-04T21:00:38.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get the glove box out out the way, if you&#xA;have one it will probably be accessible through the space it usually&#xA;occupies.  Don't break the glove box, you'll need to disengage&#xA;whatever mechanism is holding it in the open position when you&#xA;release the latch. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;According to the manufacturer service&#xA;schedule or whenever it's filthy / clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some quick searching is turning up a lot of confusing info.  You may have one that came with the vehicle from the factory, but it might not be in any parts database as a part you can order / purchase.  You might also just have an empty spot where you could fit a filter.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-10021.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevymalibuforum.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chevymalibuforum.com.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-04T21:09:41.637" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T21:09:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4324" CreationDate="2012-10-04T22:35:40.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car had a similar symptom. It turns out the exhaust was blowing. Look for holes and bad rust along your exhaust lines and also look at the exhaust manifold in the dark while revving the engine. A lot of times you'll be able to see the holes &quot;spark&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T22:35:40.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4199" CreationDate="2012-10-04T22:43:08.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether this is the core of the problem or not, it is worth changing the transmission fluid. There is a good chance that this was not done when the clutch was replaced, and who knows how long that oil has been in there. My friend had similar issues with her transmission and after changing her fluid (which was absolutely disgusting) almost all problems went away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T22:43:08.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-04T23:21:35.727" Score="4" ViewCount="6303" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car will intermittently die at random times while doing errands or anything that requires frequent start/stop engine. Sometimes after starting it idles at about 500RPM, and dies. Shifting or running the air conditioner too soon can also help but isn't always the issue. Then I wait, turn the battery on, then start it minutes later and it runs fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just installed a new idle speed control which seemed to help but not cure, a new battery, and a new alternator. There must be a TSB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2269" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T18:02:25.147" Title="1999 Honda Accord Coupe Stalls After Warm Startup and Shaky Idle TSB" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-04T23:29:30.363" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overhead lighting keeps blowing out and the fuses blow out about every day. I have used 4 so I don't know where to start looking. All of the inside lights Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2269" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T16:00:57.740" Title="Honda Accord Coupe 1999 Overhead Lighting Keeps Blowing Out" Tags="|honda|accord|lights|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4437" CreationDate="2012-10-04T23:48:23.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a shorted wire. If the fuse keeps blowing, you could have a wire touching metal somewhere in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T23:48:23.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4426" CreationDate="2012-10-04T23:50:11.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly, you need a really small allen wrench. There should be 2 screws, one on each side, but it's been a while since I've seen one of those. Also, BMW recommends disconnecting the battery when dealing with electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T23:50:11.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4426" CreationDate="2012-10-05T14:33:31.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the answer. I ended up inserting 2 little iron shafts (2mm thick) on each side, and I drew the autoradio out. Didn't disconnect the battery, but put the car's switch on the 2nd position (just before ignition) as recommended by the manual. Everything went fine, except the antenna that seems to be less efficient now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T14:33:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4437" CreationDate="2012-10-05T16:00:57.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible bad ground wire/strap in that area.  Also could be a bad bulb socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T16:00:57.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:12:41.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You replaced the engine mounts? I would guess that since you had to change the engine mounts that there is a good chance that the tranny mounts may need to be changed as well...what is the drivetrain assembly like in that car since it is fwd, sometimes if the driveshaft in a rwd car is unbalanced it will cause the car to shake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:12:41.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:16:22.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unmount your tire from your car using the Jack and wrench provided, full it with air, and then put it in a large tub of water, a bath tub will work if you dont mind a tire being in it, could get messy.  but just slowly put the tire in, not all the way, just enough so that one side is in, then let the water settle, see if bubbles are coming from the tire or seal, if it is then you know where your leak is.  If not then rotate the tire so that a new section is in the water, and look again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:16:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4376" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:21:09.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting an oil change should not make your car go from driving like crap to all of a sudden brand new, there are a lot of other maintaince that must go into a car other than simply doing an oil change.  When you get your oil changed do you also have them check the transmission fluid, differential fluid, power steering fluid...also your using the word smooth, whats not smooth about it, without that info we can only assume your car is simply not maintained well, with over 100000 its prolly time for new brake rotors, shocks, a complete flush of all system fluids including brake fluids, has any of this been done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:21:09.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:29:02.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a short, but most likely was a bad connection on the battery causing a short, thus the car turned itself off to prevent any damages, now that everything works, check the fuses again to see about the airbag light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-08T10:49:12.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T10:49:12.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-07T02:20:25.637" Score="3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just had new tires put on and have checked the balance twice and also replaced the lower ball joint and had the new tires aligned. Vibration has become very noticeable. There's no play in the steering and don't get that clicking noise with a bad tie rod. Is it a strut even if there's no bounce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2271" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T09:31:55.377" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T14:32:58.533" Title="I get a vibration in steering wheel at highway speed and a knock or clanking noise at slow speeds" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4450" CreationDate="2012-10-07T06:29:10.380" Score="4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Civic and for about 2 weeks there is a squeaking sound when I depress and release the clutch while changing gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to oil something? It is very noticeable in the cabin, but I can't see where it is coming from if it can in fact be oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it that needs attention? Does it have to be addressed right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2229" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T14:57:36.480" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T14:57:36.480" Title="Squeak when I depress clutch in Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|clutch|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-07T14:15:22.147" Score="5" ViewCount="41508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed  a new CD player &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=en&amp;amp;scy=cl&amp;amp;ctn=CEM2100/00&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Philips CEM2100&lt;/a&gt; it works but when I turn the car on and off it loses several settings such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volume, eu region for radio (this may be because I haven't fitted the arial) and last playing cd track data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that you can swap a few wires around to fix this issue, but dont know which ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the wires in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1M6jd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/JPpOm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the back of the CD player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhcLz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://imgur.com/JPpOm,GzKmB#1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2272" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T15:39:31.833" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T19:31:33.077" Title="Peugeot 206 LX (2002), I have installed a cd player which works but it doesn't remember volume/clock settings" Tags="|audio|wiring|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2012-10-07T15:52:25.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by &lt;a href=&quot;http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/c/cem2100_00/cem2100_00_dfu_aen.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phillips here (PDF download)&lt;/a&gt; But the wire colors listed in the manual don't match what's in your picture. Below is a screenshot of page 9 of the manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4b6p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T16:08:38.927" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T16:08:38.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4447" CreationDate="2012-10-07T23:05:27.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some deeper research, I have found that the cause is a worn thowout bearing. I also see that if this is to get replaced, it is wise to spend a few more $$ and replace the clutch as well as the labor to get at the bearing is the same as clutch replacment. So I guess I will be replacing both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2229" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T23:05:27.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4456" CreationDate="2012-10-08T01:10:46.497" Score="3" ViewCount="17726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the oil in my 2004 Jeep Wrangler today - I thought I'd give synthetic oil a try because there was a &quot;Mobile 1 oil and Bosch filter&quot; deal at my local auto shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now I have always used off-brand regular oil and FRAM filters, which have done their job just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After putting the synthetic oil in my jeep the engine seems runs noticeably quieter than it did before.  Is this because of some property of synthetic oil that I don't know about?  And even though I do have very good hearing I am open to the idea that this is just my imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:06:53.697" Title="Why is my engine quieter with synthetic oil?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5209" CreationDate="2012-10-08T02:30:18.703" Score="1" ViewCount="15245" Body="&lt;p&gt;It it worth using a motor oil conditioner?  Do they actually help keep an engine running better, or are they just marketing ploys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T15:30:40.847" Title="Do motor oil conditioners do anything, or are they just a marketing ploy?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4196" CreationDate="2012-10-08T09:06:35.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the fix required the replacement of a fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T09:06:35.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2012-10-08T10:46:57.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colours Larry listed are the ISO standard ones, which it seems Peugeot don't follow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The permanent live should be pin 7, which is the thick blue wire in your photo. The thin blue wire in pin 4 should be live when the ignition is on. Pin 8 (yellow &amp;amp; green) should be ground, and pin 5 (white) should power the electic aerial. The others are ignored in your stereo (as it only has 4 connections in the socket), and are probably used by Peugeot for steering wheel controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T10:46:57.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2012-10-08T12:20:56.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about automotive oils specifically, but there are aviation oil additives that have proven benefits.  So, it's certainly possible that an additive could have benefit.  I'm always very suspicious of them though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T12:20:56.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2012-10-08T12:23:23.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily the oil.  You've also changed the oil filter you're using.  It's possible the Bosch (either by itself, or in combination with the synthetic oil) allows more flow and better lubrication.  I'm unfamiliar with current Fram and Bosch products though, so I don't know if there's any real world difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T12:23:23.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4458" CreationDate="2012-10-08T12:32:02.797" Score="3" ViewCount="15752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that lower gears have higher acceleration &amp;amp; low top speeds  and higher gears have low acceleration &amp;amp; higher top speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would like to know why this gear system was designed first of all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens internally?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question is that nowadays there are scooty peps'(gearless) that have &lt;code&gt;125 cc&lt;/code&gt;. So does a &lt;code&gt;125 cc&lt;/code&gt; bike with gear  have any advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:33:34.870" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:33:34.870" Title="Why bikes with gears are preferred when there is gearless(or automatic gear) technology?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4457" CreationDate="2012-10-08T13:47:26.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your questions don't appear to match the headline,  but to try and help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are gears used when there is automatic gear technology?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because automatic gears have more losses- so you don't get as much efficiency from your drive train. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because automatic gears can't read your mind and may not choose the best gear for what you want to do. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the greater complexity leads to more maintenance or more breakdowns. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why was this gear technology developed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is just how power works. If you turn the drive cog more times for a number of output turns, you get more torque but less top speed. It's basic physics. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/gears.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this howstuffworks page&lt;/a&gt; for a detailed explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a bike with gears have any advantage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely! It is lighter, requires less maintenance, is potentially safer in an emergency situation, and in fact the only good thing about the automatic scooters is that they are very easy for beginners to learn on as they don't need to worry about gears, clutch etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An animation to explain Continuous Variable Gears (from Wikipedia):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/09qfm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-10-08T15:52:12.530" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T15:52:12.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="426" CreationDate="2012-10-08T18:54:41.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use DEXRON VI as a power steering fluid. It is marked on the bottle not to be used as power steering fluid. DEXRON III/MECRON would be a better choice for cars where the manual specified DEXRON II, which is no longer on sale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my Mitsubishi Eclipse 2002 with only 17000 miles, I decided to buy from the dealer DIAMOND, power steering fluid for about $20 a quart. To get rid from old fluid without aerating the power steering pump is a challenge, the rocedure is long. In short lift up and secure the front of the vehicle. Empty the power steering bottle, by siphoning or other means. Disconnect the return hose and connect with a hose to any container or bottle. Plug the hole. Put the transmission in neutral and turn ignition key off. While a helper is turning the steering wheel all the way left then right, add new fluid in the PS bottle. You have to repeat this procedure many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2277" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T13:26:34.780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:26:34.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4465" CreationDate="2012-10-08T23:57:21.703" Score="3" ViewCount="7795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the head gasket in my 1992 Civic. Started it up before putting everything back together (just a second since it had no coolant, exhaust wasn't connected, etc.) and it ran fine. But now after putting everything back together and filling the cooling system, it won't start. Turning the key, the starter motor runs, and the engine turns with virtually no resistance - so smooth that at first I thought the starter motor was just spinning without turning the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to go about diagnosing the problem? I don't see anything obviously wrong - no visible leaks, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T23:11:07.890" Title="92 Civic engine won't start after replacing head gasket" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4467" CreationDate="2012-10-09T02:44:46.067" Score="7" ViewCount="82272" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has now happened twice to me that after adding coolant to the radiator, when I turn the car on the RPM's will bounce up and down and the engine is reving (between 1k and 1.5k RPM's). Normal idle is 750 RPM's. After a while it will eventually idle fine, but usually only after driving it for a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what I have tried is leaving the radiator cap off and letting the car warm up to try and let the air escape and this looks like it works. The coolant level rises all the way to the top and will eventually 'burp' and go back down. I've let it run for about 20 minutes. But there still seems to be air trapped inside as startups still has rough idling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some references to a bleeder valve, but my car doesn't seem to have this (2002 Honda Accord). Is there any better way to get the air out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T17:21:01.163" Title="Air trapped inside radiator after adding coolant" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-10-09T02:53:00.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They only need to be resurfaced if your car shimmies when braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are deep grooves in the rotors but it doesn't shimmy while braking, then you should machine them but you don't have to. Basically, the deeper the grooves the less surface area there is for the pads to grab onto. So you'll have a loss of breaking power but you probably won't notice  it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2279" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:54:01.917" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:54:01.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2012-10-09T13:35:27.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is spinning with no resistance, you don't have any compression. You should be able to test this pretty easily as you'll probably be able to spin it over quite happily with a spanner on the crank pulley. I can't see why that would suddenly happen when refilling the coolant system though, unless there was a problem with the new gasket installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What caused you to need to replace it in the first place? That might give some clues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T13:35:27.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2012-10-09T14:02:44.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the timing belt did slip due to lack of tension with accessories on it, the lack of compression may well be due to some smashed valves...  I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; the Civics are all interference motors.  See if you can confirm or deny that before you start pulling the head.  Anyone know of an easier way to check the valves?  Are there any strong indications of damage from just pulling the valve cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T14:02:44.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2012-10-09T17:48:23.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2828549&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; from honda-tech.com.  Sounds like you should have one from the factory, but it's possible an aftermarket thermostat housing was installed minus the valve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really have no bleeder, you could install a thermostat housing that has one, or pull yours and install one yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you're on the right track, though you might try running the heater and squeezing the hoses to move air bubbles along.  Be careful poking around the engine bay with the engine running, don't lose any fingers.  Gentle prods from a rubber mallet might be a safer strategy.  You also need to wait for the engine to warm up and for the thermostat to open, otherwise you could have some air trapped in the block with no way out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T17:29:00.720" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T17:29:00.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-10T04:23:13.290" Score="8" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that most cars have a heater that takes a few minutes to start after the car has been started, presumably because it derives its heat from the engine which hasn't heater up yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there heaters which don't use engine heat and thus start up at once? What are they called? Can you add it to an existing car or does it have to come with the car? I really would like to get in to a car that blows hot air at me right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2282" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T16:10:31.923" Title="Is there a type of car heater that starts immediately?" Tags="|heat|heater|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4468" CreationDate="2012-10-10T04:32:44.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest way to do so, would be to add something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395513_200395513&quot;&gt;aftermarket accessory&lt;/a&gt;. Looking for any in-dash options would likely be more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T04:32:44.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4461" CreationDate="2012-10-10T06:11:17.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers and my suspicion based on them were right: the problem was lack of compression due to the timing belt having slipped. I took out the #1 spark plug and brought it to TDC, and found that the cam sprocket was off by 90 degrees from where it should be. After centering all 4 pistons to avoid interference with the valves, adjusting the cam sprocket to the &quot;UP&quot; position, and then moving #1 back to TDC, the engine runs again. I can't confirm yet that it's not damaged; it lacks power, but that could be from exhaust fumes in the engine compartment (2 of the studs that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold broke taking it off) and/or old, dirty/corroded spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T06:11:17.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4130" CreationDate="2012-10-10T08:25:39.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same bike, and I Had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try these two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your choke on full (left handlebar, push it all the way DOWN) and start it with the throttle on full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;release, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep your choke on full and start it WITHOUT any throttle&#xA;(keep turning it over for about 5secs if needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works for me intermittently when I have the same problem whether it's winter or summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fingers crossed that does the job&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T13:20:29.340" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:20:29.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3923" CreationDate="2012-10-10T08:57:56.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently there isn't a Haynes manual for the Alto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few pdf manuals online, but I'm not going to vouch for their quality when compared with Haynes, nor for their legality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look on the Suzuki forums and see what they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T08:57:56.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2012-10-10T09:01:01.967" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;These ways to repair tires can work - the air pressure inside the tire does hold the patch to the body of the tire - but the question you want to ask yourself is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you willing to trust your life to a weaker tire when a small amount of money will get you a brand new tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; go with the new tire if I have had a puncture on my motorbike - the risks are just too high. In a car I'd be happier with a repair, as I have 3 other tires to grip with, but on a bike a failure of one tire is always bad!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T09:01:01.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4486" CreationDate="2012-10-10T12:45:29.360" Score="3" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an 800cc dune buggy but unfortunately it doesn't come with a RPM sensor so I have been looking at my options in terms of installing one. In the process I have found that the way that engines typically measure RPM is through a crankshaft position sensor (please correct me if I'm wrong). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So could someone advise how I would go about determining if my engine supports the installation of such a device and how I would go about purchasing one that would be compatible with my engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guidance would be highly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T08:35:06.730" Title="Do all engines typically support the installation of a crankshaft position sensor" Tags="|sensor|rpm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4475" CreationDate="2012-10-10T12:57:55.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very much engine specific.  One of my cars has a replacement engine block that came from a car that only had a cam angle sensor (and mine requires cam AND crank angle sensors).  Even though it's technically the same block other than the one sensor hole missing it was still a bit of an ordeal.  A hole had to be drilled and tapped (very carefully), seals fitted, etc.  In my case it's been pretty good, but others (it's a fairly common swap, lots of people have done this) have reported having leaks around it that they just can't ever seem to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T12:57:55.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4481" CreationDate="2012-10-10T13:45:38.333" Score="2" ViewCount="5394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2010 hyundai i20. The problem is the clutch pedal in my car has become very soft and it engages the gear when the clutch pedal has almost been released, previously it used to engage when it was released half way. Do you guys have any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T13:35:06.243" Title="Clutch pedal has become very soft and engages very late" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4483" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:27:39.903" Score="2" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Chevy Malibu will not start. After turning the key to &quot;On&quot;, the car beeps 6 times. After the last beep, &quot;cal err&quot; appears on the clock/radio display, and the car beeps an additional 4 times (more quickly this time). Also, no lights appear on the dashboard (e.g. check engine light, lights behind speedometer, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the key to &quot;Start&quot; cause the car to &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to start (turns over), but it will not. The battery is fine (clock/radio backlight does not dim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car worked fine last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; also be worth noting that it rained all day yesterday, and I did have to roll down the window a couple times in the rain (rain got on the window switches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2289" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T22:58:33.357" Title="2002 Malibu will not start: 6 beeps followed by &quot;cal err&quot; followed by 4 fast beeps" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:32:58.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it click when you turn? Assuming this is a front wheel drive car, it sounds like it is possibly a CV joint going bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2291" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T14:32:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4477" CreationDate="2012-10-10T16:34:19.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple candidates that come to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air in clutch line.  Bleed clutch lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing master or slave cylinder.  Inspect, replace as necessary (and bleed clutch lines afterwards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T16:34:19.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-10T17:36:20.347" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed my thermostat today on my '99 Pontiac Grand Am. My car had been running hot. At first I'm pretty sure I over filled the antifreeze so we drained it completely and put new 50/50 in. It was still running hot so I decided to change the thermostat. Just got finished and now when I start it, it makes a whistling noise. Along with some type of smoke coming from the exhaust pipes. Please help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2292" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T19:50:58.120" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:11:44.603" Title="I just changed the thermostat on my 99 grand am and now its making a noise when i start it" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4478" CreationDate="2012-10-10T23:13:18.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're getting the 'cal err' because your radio lost power.  Hopefully you've just got some corroded/loose battery terminals.  Try cleaning and tightening them and see if that gets you going.  I've seen vehicles act this way due to a loose battery terminal.  If that's not it, you've possibly got a problem somewhere in the wiring harness, possibly a bad ground.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T23:13:18.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4485" CreationDate="2012-10-10T23:27:54.410" Score="5" ViewCount="3187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand tires very well, so I'm hoping you guys can double check this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked to the tire shop today about getting new winter tires put on. I have a 2009 Ford Focus SES with 215/45R17 Bridgestone Blizzak tires that are worn out. The tire shop wants to replace them over to 205/50R17 GTRadial Champiro tires, saying that they're a cheaper and better option for winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with doing this? I tried looking at some tire calculators online (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etyres.co.uk/tyre-size-calculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etyres.co.uk/tyre-size-calculator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) and it seems like they would fit and don't deviate too much from what I have, but I'd rather double check before I go ahead with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, is it correct in saying that the new tyres would be thinner but taller? Or am I reading this wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastEditorUserId="2298" LastEditDate="2012-10-14T08:46:39.743" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T11:42:58.957" Title="Changing tire sizes on my 2009 Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|tires|focus|winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4484" CreationDate="2012-10-11T08:29:27.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new tyres would indeed be narrower and slightly taller - the first number is the width in mm, so the second tyre is 10mm (3/8&quot;) narrower than the first, and the second is the height as a percentage of the width, which works out at roughly 96mm and 103mm respectively. Just to mix things up even more, the third number is the wheel diameter in inches...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new tyres your speedometer would be slightly out as the new tyres would have a 2% larger circumference (so for each revolution of the wheel you've gone 40mm further than you would have done with the old tyre, but that is a pretty negligable amount, not much more than the difference between a totally worn out tyre and a brand new one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many manufacturers suggest a range of tyre sizes that will fit as well as the recommended size, but generally you can go a couple of sizes either side of the recommended one and still fit happily on the wheels. Certainly one size out won't cause any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one key thing to check is your insurance - many companies (at least in the UK) want to be notified about changes to tyre type, size or speed rating, although I doubt they'd load your premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T08:29:27.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4475" CreationDate="2012-10-11T08:35:06.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the type of engine you've got or the age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older engines that are fitted with distributors and mechanical ignition systems typically drive their tachometers off the coil trigger wire, as this pulses each time a spark plug is fired. If that is the case, you simply need to connect a suitable tacho to the -ve terminal of the coil (i.e. the same one as the lead from the distributor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T08:35:06.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4468" CreationDate="2012-10-11T14:34:11.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option that you could look into is getting an engine block heater fitted. Essentially, you plug those into a wall outlet and they warm up the coolant which both helps with cold starts if you're in a cold climate, and you should get warm air out of the heater fairly quickly compared to a car without a block heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T14:34:11.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4482" CreationDate="2012-10-11T20:11:44.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is more of a squeel than a whistle you may have spilled antifreeze on to the serpentine belt. The anti freeze is making the belt slip. Is the smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe or off the pipes in the engine bay? If anti freeze was spilled onto the manifold and pipes it will smoke until it burns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:11:44.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4525" CreationDate="2012-10-11T22:46:11.950" Score="5" ViewCount="1873" Body="&lt;p&gt;While on a roadtrip, the car started overheating with coolant boiling out.  We refilled the radiator with coolant, but it kept occurring.  We managed to make it back home by having the heater on high with the fans on high and the windows open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator fans turn on, but it's blowing cold air.  The lower radiator hose is cold.  The top hose is hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pump is circulating coolant for the cabin heat, so I think that should be ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the thermostat, but that didn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No smoke out the tailpipe, so hopefully head gasket is OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm trying to burp air out of the cooling system by parking on a hill, squeezing the hoses, and adding coolant.  While draining the coolant to replace the thermostat, I was able to speed the process up by blowing air through the radiator cap, so it doesn't seem like there's a blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the only things it could be is either the pump (but the heat works fine?) or the radiator (but there's no coolant leaking and no block?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T20:10:09.613" Title="2005 Subaru Forester XS overheating" Tags="|subaru|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4492" CreationDate="2012-10-12T14:10:25.070" Score="6" ViewCount="10510" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that with every new model of a car, tires are getting bigger. For example, 17 years ago I had Mitsubishi Mirage and it came with P155/80R13. Today I have a Hyundai Accent, and it came with P175/70R14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of a bigger tire? Why do newer cars come with bigger tires? Is it related to the increasing weight of cars? Is it for stability, fuel economy, or comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T02:46:47.760" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T20:33:35.703" Title="Why do tires get bigger over the years?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2012-10-12T15:00:16.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, it's kind of swinging the other way now, at least partially...  While the OEM diameter keeps getting larger (for better &amp;amp; more responsive ride/handling), they're going back to skinnier tires on new cars for better fuel economy. To the point where I have a hard time finding tires that fit my older cars properly. For example, I need 245/45R16 and everything today seems to be 225 and narrower (except for some extreme examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T02:46:30.490" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T02:46:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2012-10-12T15:00:26.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, your basic premise isn't actually correct. There are a lot of cars which take a 14 and a lot of tyres which are as narrow as your old ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, tyre technology has moved on so it is now easier and cheaper to make wide tyres which are structurally able to cope, and in most conditions more rubber touching the ground means more grip (let's exclude deep water or snow where a narrower tyre can get more grip)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A greater footprint actually impacts fuel economy quite badly, as you get more friction with a wider tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have touched on low profile tyres previously, and the added control they can bring, but that isn't really relevant for this question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T15:00:26.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4504" CreationDate="2012-10-12T15:01:00.957" Score="3" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a leaking pipe in the cooling system of my Mk Golf. It leaks about a litre in 5 miles. I'm not sure if it's worth trying Radweld with this rate of flow or if I should just try to find a replacement pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leaking pipe is the one which is oily at the right hand side of the shot, and wet in the centre. The leak is beneath the plastic clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZgTI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you try Radweld with this amount of coolant loss? If not, what is this particular stretch of pipe called if I need to replace it? And why is there what appears to be a screw going through it? Is this standard for the clip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2297" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-10-14T20:39:06.383" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T20:39:06.383" Title="Should I try radweld on this pipe or just replace it? Mk3 VW Golf" Tags="|vw|radiator|cooling-system|leak|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2012-10-12T15:03:31.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason for the larger tires is style,people like the look of the larger wheels. The second is handling,even small cars can now produce more horsepower than some full size cars of yesteryear. The shorter aspect ratio or tire sidewall height reduces tire squirm or the tendency of the tire to roll in turns. The wider tire also brakes better. This results in more predictive and consistant cornering and less torque steer. Torque steer is the tendency for front wheel drive vehicles to pull to the side under acceleration. I am sure some of the reasons are also lawsuit related. If you make a car that can go 100+ mph it better handle well at 100+mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T15:03:31.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-12T17:43:52.980" Score="19" ViewCount="12517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota.  It is a V6, 3.9 Liter, auto transmission.  I have a weird problem that no one has been able to answer for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOW I CAME TO REALIZE THE PROBLEM:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day I was driving home and had to stop at a stop light.  The light turned green and I took off.  For some reason it would not shift out of 1st gear at all.  So, I was stuck driving at 3000 RPMs and 25ish MPH.  I drove to a bank and parked it.  The next day I went to get it.  I was just going to drive it home and figure out what was wrong with it later.  It was still acting the way it did the night before, not shifting.  I noticed I didn't have enough gas to get home to I stopped at the gas station and filled it up.  When I pulled out of the gas station it started shifting normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have had this happen to me a few times now.  It is always when I am really low on gas.  Once I fill it up with gas the problem goes away.  It usually occurs around an 1/8 of a tank.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why is this happening?  How does the level of gas in the tank have anything to do with it shifting?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2298" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T21:02:12.430" Title="shifting stops when critically low on gas" Tags="|automatic-transmission|dodge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4508" CreationDate="2012-10-12T20:24:03.490" Score="3" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently driving a 2006 Mazda 3 and my 3rd gear has worked with no issues since i bought the car in 2006, but a couple days ago my 3rd gear would randomly pop out while I was driving in it and at other times it will be fine. I have not taken to a mechanic yet, but that is in the works. I'm more interested to know if it is a Transmission problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2299" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:26:05.197" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:26:05.197" Title="3rd Gear Popping Out" Tags="|mazda|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4496" CreationDate="2012-10-13T01:34:36.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;LOL - yeah, it's a transmission problem. If you want to just hold it in 3rd gear until it's time to shift to 4th, it will never hurt anything. But, you're looking at a transmission rebuild to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T01:34:36.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2012-10-13T15:44:15.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see the corrosion on the pipe around the clip - even if Radweld or similar is able to temporarily stop the leak, I doubt that it'll last very long. At the rate that it's leaking, there is bound to be a bunch of fairly sizeable holes corroded into the pipe. For that reason alone I would change out the pipe as soon as I could. If that breaks (worst case scenario) you're going to lose a lot of coolant very quickly and potentially cook the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what the pipe is called, I couldn't find any online parts diagrams online during a quick search. Worst case I'd just take it to the dealer to get the part, it's going to be cheaper than a well cooked engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T15:44:15.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-13T20:12:41.720" Score="8" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a set of winter tires on there already, but I'm not worried about getting paint or rust remover on the tires -- I've ordered some new tires already (going studded this year) and will be getting rid of the ones I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How vigilant should I be with rust? Is it enough to wipe it down and clean it up with chemicals or do I need to get out the Dremel tool and sand my way down to clean metal before painting? How many coats of paint should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T00:56:00.797" Title="Winter rims have rust patches. Should I leave them or remove rust and repaint? Any recommendations for rust remover and paint?" Tags="|wheels|rust|winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4501" CreationDate="2012-10-13T23:09:39.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With rust you really need to grind down to bare metal, then use rust-resist paint as your first layer, covered with a couple more layers of paint to protect that undercoat (depending on how hard-wearing the paint is) otherwise it will just spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T23:09:39.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4501" CreationDate="2012-10-14T00:56:00.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on how bad the rust patches are. If it's just surface rust, I'd clean up the rust with a wire brush and some sand paper and treat the remaining rust with chemical rust remover or converter, then repaint the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is significantly deep rust on the rim that goes deep enough to warrant grinding out, I'd be a bit careful or would just get a replacement rim as I wouldn't want to run the risk that the rim has been weakened. That said, I don't think I've seen that sort of rust on a steel rim that wasn't a several decades old and used in a very damp/salty environment, and even then it's pretty rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T00:56:00.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2012-10-14T18:24:53.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All sorted. As Timo said, there was loads of corrosion and Radweld wouldn't have stood a chance! The VAG part number is &lt;code&gt;037121065H&lt;/code&gt;. I initially got &lt;code&gt;037121065L&lt;/code&gt; but it didn't have a port for the heated inlet manifold!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2297" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T18:24:53.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-14T19:34:31.400" Score="5" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will have the white smoke on acceleration processing (whene the motor turn  ) and the compressor is not working (no Acceleration speed ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2305" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T13:56:30.127" Title="what are causes of white smoke from pipe AUDI A4 1998 motor V6 TDI 2.5 litres" Tags="|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2012-10-14T20:57:34.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;White smoke is most likely to be oil- so you want to check your gaskets and seals. Can you smell burnt oil?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is antifreeze or coolant, so if you don't smell oil these are something else to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually just found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jhdiesel.com/failurechart1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an interesting chart&lt;/a&gt; which has a list of possible symptoms and causes. If you look at the list and exclude black smoke options, most are engine oil or turbo oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T13:56:30.127" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T13:56:30.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-15T01:59:26.263" Score="7" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a brand new 800cc 4 speed manual dune buggy. As part of my testing after around 3 hours of driving (carefully and without any impacts) the manual transmission has essentially exploded and roughly an inch sized hole appeared where a couple of the internal components along with a metric ton of oil has been ejected out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what type of transmission is in this vehicle but have been advised it is a motorcycle transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please advise, how common is something like this happening? I understand obviously different gearboxes will be manufactured to different standards but excluding a manufacturing fault - I guess what I am asking is - is there any possibility that anything I could have done could cause such a catastrophic failure in such a short period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is a somewhat open ended question but any input would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:23:28.657" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:23:28.657" Title="Major transmission failure - Manufacturing fault?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4496" CreationDate="2012-10-15T07:09:56.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes Ive had this happen to me with the reverse gear. I took it to a mechanic and learnt it would require a rebuild or replacement from a wrecked car (careful the replacements not damaged from the any crashes). Sorry, its not an easy issue to fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T07:09:56.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4510" CreationDate="2012-10-15T08:55:42.360" Score="7" ViewCount="18912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Micra (UK, 51-plate, 2001 model) that I have been using to drive to work on a daily basis - 10 miles each way a day on a variety of roads - streets, main roads, main roads in traffic, motorway and dual carriageway. Recently while leaving home and work I've noticed the engine temperature raise from starting point to half-way (which I've seen as &quot;normal&quot; temperature&quot;) and creep near to the red and then drop back down to normal levels again. It only seems to happen when stopped in traffic - once I get onto the motorway it drops down quick - I guess this may be down to airflow cooling the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the coolant levels and they look fine. When I get home I hear a &quot;ticking&quot; from the engine which I believe is just the engine cooling down. What could I do or need to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:39:25.153" Title="Why would my engine temperature raise from normal to high and drop back down again?" Tags="|engine|nissan|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2012-10-15T09:30:42.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be your thermostat - if it is not reading temperatures properly it may not trigger your fan until temperatures get really high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being stationary with the engine running is usually the time when this can happen, as there is no cooling airflow until the fan comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the engine with the bonnet (hood for US-ians) and see when the fan starts - is it when the temperature is just over its normal level, or does it wait until the engine temperature is very high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another simple thing to check is the oil level - if this is too low then it can lead to overheating. Make sure you have enough oil in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T09:30:42.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4484" CreationDate="2012-10-15T11:42:58.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following-up on Nick's answer, the recommendation from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/OptionalTireSize.jsp?searchDiameter=17&amp;amp;autoMake=Ford&amp;amp;autoYear=2009&amp;amp;autoModel=Focus%20SES%20Coupe&amp;amp;autoModClar=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Rack is actually 205/45-17&lt;/a&gt;.  That size would have the taller, thinner profile but with a smaller outer diameter.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;That smaller number after the slash is the aspect ratio&lt;/a&gt;, indicating that this size would be slightly wider than it is tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, I don't think there's anything necessarily wrong with their particular recommendation of tire brand.  I don't agree with their sizing however, preferring to stick with either the original or the one recommended by Tire Rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your owners manual for additional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T11:42:58.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4507" CreationDate="2012-10-15T13:04:23.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a manufacturing fault to me. Unless you've been badly mistreating it, an average gearbox should last for tens of thousands of miles - and even then, failures don't normally result in parts of the geartrain being ejected through the block!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:04:23.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4383" CreationDate="2012-10-15T20:05:07.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car will be just fine with either approach as long as you slow down to a reasonable speed before hitting the speed bump, and so long as your car doesn't bottom out (bottoming out meaning some part of the car other than the tires touches the ground).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kinds of stresses put on a car by driving slowly over a speed bump are no more severe than the kinds of stresses that the car experiences while driving around town (around corners, over small bumps, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common damage caused by speed bumps is damage from bottoming out. The parts of cars that typically get the worst of this damage are the plastic bits down low on the front of the car (front spoiler, belly pan), or low-hanging parts of the engine (oil pan) or exhaust. Bottoming out happens when you drive too fast, and the springs of the car can't lift the mass of the vehicle out of the way of the road quickly enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaching the bump at an angle (one wheel at a time) would make it more likely that you would bottom out, as you're then asking only one spring to do the job of lifting the car clear of the bump, instead of having two springs work together by approaching the bump straight-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, just slow down. If it doesn't sound or feel abrupt/violent, the car will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T20:05:07.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-15T20:28:11.727" Score="2" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 C320 Mercedes &amp;amp; am needing to replace the front 2 tires &amp;amp; rims. I have 255/35/ZR19 on the back so would a 245/45/R17 work for the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T19:33:00.637" Title="Mercedes C320 2003 tires &amp; rims" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-15T22:46:42.087" Score="6" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I share a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3956/37&quot;&gt;similar plight with the guy before&lt;/a&gt; only difference is it's with an 04 Forester STi. I held the passenger front window switch up for a little too long next thing I know my driver side window goes all the way to the top and the safety mechanism kicks in as if something is in its way which would make the window automatically return to half way open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then proceeded to hold down the window switch of both the passenger and driver side for maybe 5 seconds, then 10 then 15 and ultimately 25 second intervals, after which the driver side resumed normal operations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I'd turn off the car however the unwanted behavior would return :(. I have all but given up and would love to hear from a Subaru manual as I reside in the Caribbean and have no Subaru dealer to turn to (my vehicle was imported from Japan.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2312" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:40:01.920" Title="My drivers side window no longer closes with one press of the button 1" Tags="|electrical|subaru|forester|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-16T07:43:38.097" Score="1" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;As there is no Kit car section in the Stack yet, I thought I should ask this one here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building an engine conversion project, which requires custom drive shafts.&#xA;I have the CV joints for both ends so all I need is a pair of splined shafts made to spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have had a couple of quotes and they are asking silly money, really silly, IE £300 EACH. I may be asking the wrong companies (motorsport engineering)..???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for advice on where can make such shafts at reasonable prices (IE under £100 each)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T12:17:21.767" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T16:00:55.463" Title="Custom drive shaft manufacturers in the UK" Tags="|parts|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4530" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:07:42.843" Score="5" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/used-heater-control-shaft-genuine-saab-ng900-p-1624.html?osCsid=b51qa7kgmh92mpvhjsqev75su5&quot;&gt;control shafts&lt;/a&gt;  that move the flaps which control the the hot/cold air and which vents the air come out have broken.  The car is a 1999 93 Saab so I'm assuming that the hinges  (the flap has a peg that goes through a hole) just need lubrication. (In addition to a replacement control shaft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that there's existing grease of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be using?  Is it something special and what is it called?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T17:24:58.933" Title="What should I use to lubricate the flaps that controls the temperature and which vents the air comes out of?" Tags="|ac|hvac|lubrication|saab|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4515" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:21:44.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local Subaru dealer tried the same techniques you tried, and also tried to replace with a normal Forester window unit. Unfortunately here in the UK the STi is an import from Japan, so their conclusion was that they would need to replace the entire module - so hopefully I have one coming from Japan and will get it next month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is not a lot that is serviceable in the window module - expectation is that if it won't reset, then it's a replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, I can only get the window to the top in small (1 inch) increments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T08:21:44.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2012-10-16T10:36:56.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The price will be dependent on the use. If this is a high horsepower project you may need high cost axles. If you can get away with a stock strength shaft you may be able to shorten a stock axle. I know in my area (northeast U.S.) both axle/driveshaft shops deal with large truck driveline repairs as their primary bussiness. Check with a shop that specializes in truck transmission, differentials &lt;em&gt;etc&lt;/em&gt;. If they don’t make their own driveshafts ask them what shop they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T16:00:55.463" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T16:00:55.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4514" CreationDate="2012-10-16T11:13:14.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the fronts, the main issue is whether the tyres rub on the wheel arch- bigger tyres have less clearance at full lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the clearance with the current tyres at full lock and you should be able to work it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T11:13:14.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2012-10-16T12:25:30.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone on another forum I frequent had a Propshaft made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davemacprops.com/dmphome.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dave Mac Props&lt;/a&gt; in Coventry. It cost him around £300, so I'd expect Driveshafts to be less than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, have you tried more conventional Engineering firms? i.e. non car-specific ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:25:30.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4514" CreationDate="2012-10-16T12:27:48.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend fitting different size wheels on each axle unless you really need to. If nothing else it makes things a real pain if you have a puncture!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:27:48.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2012-10-16T18:36:44.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From FAQ section of Prestone Website:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some European automobile manufacturers request that a phosphate-free antifreeze be used in their vehicles. This issue is related to the extremely high mineral content of the water in Europe. If you were to mix an antifreeze that contained phosphates with the type of water they have in Europe, it may produce deposits that can settle in the cooling system and promote corrosion. However, in North America we do not have this type of water problem. Typical North American coolants have contained phosphates (which is part of the corrosion inhibitor package) for many years. Therefore, the question of phosphates is a non-issue here in North America. Prestone® Antifreeze/Coolant is completely safe for use in both foreign and domestic vehicles. For those consumers who would feel more comfortable using a phosphate-free antifreeze, our Prestone® LongLife® Premixed Antifreeze/Coolant and Prestone® Dex-Cool® Premixed LongLife® Antifreeze/ Coolant formula’s are phosphate, silicate, and borate free. These coolants use a special chemistry and technology that extends the life of the corrosion inhibitor package so that it lasts for five years or 240,000 kms (whichever comes first), and is safe for all cars and light trucks (old or new). Prestone®  Dex-Cool® Premixed LongLife® Antifreeze/ Coolant has been approved by General Motors under their DEX-COOL® specifications and is compatible with other DEX-COOL® approved coolants.&#xA;  * DEX-COOL® is a registered trademark of General Motors Corporation.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2317" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T12:55:21.770" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T12:55:21.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4489" CreationDate="2012-10-16T20:10:09.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ended up being a cracked radiator caused by blown headgasket.  This was verified from pressure tests done at two different shops.  Repair quotes at $3300 and $3500.  We ended up trading it in for a new vehicle, as at 197,000 miles the price to repair was coming close to the cost of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T20:10:09.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4527" CreationDate="2012-10-17T01:43:09.393" Score="16" ViewCount="2760" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years I have been driving a very old car, and servicing it every 10,000 kilometres even though it took me almost a year to drive that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a newer car which I care about more.  It's going to be doing very little kilometres -- mainly driving to/from the train station, with some driving on the weekend.  I predict it will probably take me about 18 months to drive 10,000 kilometres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most advice I have read is that you should service your car every 10,000 kilometres OR 6 months, whichever is sooner.  If I follow this advice, I will be servicing the car after only a small number of kilometres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given my circumstances, should I be following this advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T05:49:55.410" Title="How important is time-based servicing vs. distance-based servicing?" Tags="|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2012-10-17T09:47:17.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes - you should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car doing reasonable mileage may actually last longer than a car doing very low mileage, as when a car is less frequently used oils may fully drain so the next time the car is started it runs without lubrication in some areas for a short while - increasing wear. As @SamJones mentioned - checking your oil level on a weekly basis should be standard practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also oils and rubber do deteriorate over time, so things like belts, wiper blades, tyre pressure etc should be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend scheduling these so that one is just before winter, as this is a good time to get pre-winter checks carried out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T12:40:20.897" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T12:40:20.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4533" CreationDate="2012-10-17T14:45:14.847" Score="7" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just recently bought a 2000 Mazda Milenia s Millennium edition,and on my first day out with it, I experienced a very unusual problem. After about 20 minutes of driving the car wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm. Even If I would floor the accelerator the car would simply not rev past 2500 rpm. It feels as if the car is being electronically limited to 2500 rpm. After start up, for the first 20 minutes or so, the car drives great I can feel no mechanical issues with the car, but then I out of no where this problem occurs. I am at my wits end with this, so any help or solution to this problem would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2320" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T19:14:18.447" Title="My mazda milenia wont rev past 2500 rpm" Tags="|electrical|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4613" CreationDate="2012-10-17T15:22:56.697" Score="8" ViewCount="13281" Body="&lt;p&gt;1990 Toyota 4Runner, V6, automatic transmission, 2 or 4 wheel drive (which I always keep in 2WD).  I've owned the car for about two months, the previous owner, whom I know and trust, drove this car for a year without any major troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2012-10-22 - It happened again this morning, on a 55 MPH highway.  I think it's a pump or the alternator, because it sounds an awful lot like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twuCtZAg3a0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, but a lot louder.  It seems to go away once the car has slowed down enough for the motor to go below ~1000 RPM (unless it's something that spins in direct proportion to the wheels, as opposed to the motor).  Needless to say, this makes positively identifying the source of the noise difficult.  I guess the question now is, &quot;what other than the alternator can make this kind of sound&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving on the interstate, and after less than two minutes, a loud noise started in the engine compartment or dashboard.  It sounded like a giant fan straining to suck air, or a motor spinning at a million RPM.  The noise didn't fade immediately when I took my foot off the gas, but it seemed like it got quieter as the wheels slowed down - it was gone (or almost completely gone) by the time the wheels stopped.  I got into the breakdown lane, shut off the engine, checked under the hood, and there was no smoke, unusual smell or anything falling off.  I restarted the engine, looked under the hood again, and everything was running and sounding fine.  I got off the interstate, and finished driving to work on the back roads, and the noise did not return.  Steering, acceleration and braking were fine during the incident.  I drove it back and forth to work the next few days, including on the interstate, but it doesn't reliably recur, and it always goes away by the time the car comes to a full stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may or may not be related, but I just replaced the steering gear box and switched from 33x12.50-15 to 31-10.50-15 tires (previous owner took it offroading, but I'm not into that) two days before the first incident.  After replacing the steering gear box and tires, the steering seemed tight for a day, but that got better rapidly on its own.  As I said above, during the loud noise, the steering seemed fine and responsive while I was coasting into the breakdown lane, which is why I question whether it is related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any ideas?  It sounds like bearings dying in something that spins (belts can't make that noise, can they?), but since the noise is gone by the time the car comes to a stop, positively identifying the source may prove tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2318" LastEditorUserId="2318" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T02:29:17.183" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:54:32.163" Title="What Could Cause a Sudden Loud Noise When Driving on Highway?" Tags="|toyota|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4518" CreationDate="2012-10-17T17:24:58.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In lieu of a better (more specialized) answer, I would use high temperature grease. Nothing too expensive though, I doubt those hinges get hotter than 500F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T17:24:58.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4528" CreationDate="2012-10-17T17:50:35.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like a sensor problem. Most modern engines vary the air-to-fuel ratio automatically based on the engine temperature, and do other complicated tricks like changing the spark timing based on temperature and other factors. If one of your sensors is giving inaccurate readings, especially the coolant temperature sensor, all sorts of things could go wrong, resulting in limited performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other things to check though: after 20 minutes, if you stop the engine and start it again, does the problem go away, and if so, how long until it comes back? if you're going downhill, can you go past 2500 rpm, or is that a hard limit regardless of how much power is required from the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T17:50:35.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2012-10-17T18:05:06.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less likely, but is there any chance you have water in your fuel? It would not smell, and would be easy to test by buying from a different gas station. Could also be the answer if you're noticing this more often in cold/humid weather, when water vapor is more likely to condense into fog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T18:05:06.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4528" CreationDate="2012-10-17T18:19:01.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/lofiversion/index.php?t3385.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mazda limp home mode&lt;/a&gt;.  If you check that link, two common causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad ABV solenoids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In discussing with your mechanic, I would suggest first having them scan for codes to see what is triggering the limp mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T02:08:39.983" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T02:08:39.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-18T07:19:55.800" Score="5" ViewCount="3606" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my brake lights are always on and it is the stop light cushion. I have purchased a new one from the dealer and now need to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried pointy nose pliers and they are just not working. I suspect I may have to remove just the switch itself to gain easier access to snap the cushion into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there any tricks in doing this without having to remove either the switch or the entire brake pedal assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastEditorUserId="1055" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T00:42:35.290" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T08:29:32.477" Title="Replace stop light switch cushion - 2003 Toyota Camry Altise" Tags="|toyota|brakes|camry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4514" CreationDate="2012-10-18T14:18:11.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt; does a fantastic job of determining appropriate fitments for all kinds of cars. They do list &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?filterSize=17&amp;amp;filterFinish=All&amp;amp;filterBrand=All&amp;amp;filterWeight=All&amp;amp;autoMake=Mercedes-Benz&amp;amp;autoModel=C320+Sedan&amp;amp;autoYear=2003&amp;amp;autoModClar=&amp;amp;sort=Brand&amp;amp;filterNew=All&amp;amp;filterSpecial=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some 17&quot; wheel fits for the 2003 C320&lt;/a&gt;, but they suggest a 225/45-17, not 245/45-17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current rear wheel/tire setup is a bit bigger in diameter than their recommended packages. Their recommended 19&quot; fitment is either 225/35-19 all around, or 225/35-19 front and 265/30-19 rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front setup you've asked about is also bigger in both width and rolling diameter than anything I've seen recommended, which probably doesn't bode well for a good fit--I'd expect you're in danger of rubbing the wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got access to the wheels and tires you're talking about, it can't hurt to try bolting them on, but based on what I've seen, I wouldn't order/buy that size for that car. I'd stick with 225 wide for the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T15:31:04.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T15:31:04.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4538" CreationDate="2012-10-18T18:52:04.140" Score="6" ViewCount="12438" Body="&lt;p&gt;How effective are exhaust patch kits in terms of longevity and limiting noise and leakage?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically I'm looking at using the kind that consist of heat-activated tape, an aluminium sheet and two pipe clamps, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/3A-Racing-Exhaust-repair-wrap-kit/_/N-25hw?itemIdentifier=59034_0_0_&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, on a very small hole on the pipe between the catalytic converter and the resonator (which happens to be directly below the center console).  Is there a downside to doing this before a more permanent repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1776" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:23:58.907" Title="How effective are exhaust patch kits?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2012-10-18T21:34:04.960" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used these kits occasionally when I was young and broke, so my knowledge isn't that current. Back then, they were good for a couple of months, maybe a little longer depending on how bad and where the hole is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the exhaust pipe is so rusted it'll break in a few months, that kit is not going to last very long as the movement of the breaking pipe will mostly render it ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH if it's a small hole and the rest of the pipe is in decent shape, it'll last you a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T21:34:04.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2012-10-18T22:25:17.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ Timo states they are a low budget repair.The fact that the sheet is aluminum and thin enough to wrap around the pipe will limit its' longevity. It may work ok for a hole, but won't support a broken pipe for long. How long it will last will vary. The closer to the engine and the catalytic converter the higher temp and the shorter the life. I would use it as a repair for the shortest time needed, no longer than it takes to get special order,not stocked parts or get a warranty replacement etc. These repair kits tend to fail with little warning. My experience has been that if the pipe is rusted enough to have a hole, the rest of the pipe won't be much good for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T22:25:17.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4541" CreationDate="2012-10-19T03:49:00.810" Score="4" ViewCount="2732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my 2002 Camry when it had 86K and now it has 97K on it. In the morning when I start the engine, I see blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust for a while. I don't know if I had it before, but it's more noticeable recently. The smoke does go away after driving for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the original owner used regular oil and I switched to Mobile One 5W-30 right after I got the car. I suspect it may have a semi-leaking valve seal, and after switching to synthetic oil, it worsen leak and caused blue smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is should I just switch back to non-synthetic oil? or just stick with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I stick with the synthetic, that means I should replace the valve seals when oil burns too much, so far, it's not noticeable. If I do replace the seals, what else should I replace at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2326" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:11:11.867" Title="Blue smoke on engine start" Tags="|engine|oil-leak|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4540" CreationDate="2012-10-19T08:41:58.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether you stick with synthetic or switch back to traditional oil, if it is your valve seals (which does seem likely) you will still need to get them replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite often that is all you will need to replace - but worth getting your garage to have a look at head gasket at the same time as they will be in there anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T08:41:58.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4534" CreationDate="2012-10-19T12:06:56.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the easiest way to undo the 3 bolts holding the fuse and wiring distribution board and undoing a couple of the looms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this done, you can then move this out of the way and gain side access to the brake pedal. With some slight patience you can insert the stop light cushion into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:06:56.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4540" CreationDate="2012-10-19T12:19:29.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain Toyota engines are notorious for valve stem seal leaks starting at right around 60k miles.  It's exacerbated by using synthetic oil.  I put 180k miles on a 5S-FE engine that had that problem all the way from 55k miles.  Just had to top off the oil periodically.  The Toyota mechs I know all say it's not worth the money to fix, just monitor the oil usage situation as it almost never turns into a real problem.  There's just a blue cloud on start that gradually burns off.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:19:29.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2012-10-19T12:23:58.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not terribly effective in my experience.  Mean time before repair failure seems was around a month on the multiple times we patched my wife's (then GF with no money) car a few years ago.  Just buys a little time for you to save up some money and then get the exhaust system replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:23:58.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-19T17:45:26.857" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I sat in traffic court last week for a non-moving violation, many of the cases were clearly he said/she said issues.. particularly with stop sign violations.   I can easily see how this specific problem could be a source of abuse by both police and citizens.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case in point - I stop at all stop signs.  I usually count to 2 before moving, but because of the location of the white line, It may look like I never really stopped to someone coming along the cross street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any court-admissible devices that will accurately (and affordably) record auto movement, and perhaps speed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2257" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T04:26:20.237" Title="&quot;Flight recorder&quot; for automobiles?" Tags="|brakes|speedometer|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-12-20T22:27:11.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4548" CreationDate="2012-10-19T17:54:46.117" Score="7" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find an armrest cushion in Altima 2008 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://vvcap.net/db/TIKFLbFagJgK0vvvmGQz.htp&quot;&gt;this part&lt;/a&gt;). But Nissan and all OEM re-sellers will not sell the cushion only, they are only selling it as a whole door panel, which is very expensive and I don't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any alternative place, where I could get that part, original quality, and reasonably priced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:41:59.683" Title="Where to buy interior parts, that OEM doesn't sell?" Tags="|nissan|parts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2012-10-19T18:48:18.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a reasonable price and original (used) quality, I would try a pick 'n' pull type of place.  Are you sure that the armrest is made to come off of the door panel?  There may be a reason they only sell the door panel ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T18:48:18.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:46:39.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to pick n pull type junkyards you may also want to look for online forums for Nissan enthusiasts. I am afraid I'm only familiar with the Subaru community, but it is quite common to find original interior parts for sale by members who part out entire vehicles for various reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T19:46:39.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2012-10-19T21:52:34.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try taking some doughnuts down to the local dealer parts department to see if there isn't another part number for just the cushion, even if it's from a different year or model.  If not, if you want the factory part, it sounds like you're going to have to go to the boneyard.  I've had good luck at Pick-n-Pull, sometimes they have vehicles with the interior intact and in decent shape.  Apart from that, if you have a cushion and it's just damaged, maybe an auto upholstery shop can fix it up for you.  They can sometimes find a pretty good match for the factory material.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T21:52:34.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2012-10-19T23:15:25.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 03 civic hybrid and my transmission died at 186,000 miles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2329" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T23:15:25.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4560" CreationDate="2012-10-20T16:44:51.567" Score="8" ViewCount="22603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed the other day that a component (breather valve) was not fitted properly (the clip that held the valve cover breather in place was sitting between the O-ring and the lip, instead of fastening the component to the top of the engine) and since have been trying to learn more about the PCV system in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I removed the valve I saw that there was a fair amount of oil in the pipe running from the air intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bEmi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is a no-return valve, and my first thought is that it is meant to allow the clean air to flow into the intake manifold along with the blow-by when the pressure above the valves/in the crankcase is low enough, but prevent blow-by from entering the air intake when it is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there is the (very high) possibility I've misunderstood the PCV system in this car and in fact that valve is the channel through which the blow-by enters the intake manifold in which case it would be expected that it was filled with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YM8G8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have I understood the PCV system correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should there be oil in my air intake?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2002 Audi A4 2.0l (B6 body, no FSI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="546" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T07:18:44.780" Title="Oil in air intake: is this a faulty breather valve or by design?" Tags="|audi|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8275" CreationDate="2012-10-21T04:08:01.373" Score="7" ViewCount="19883" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part number for GM power steering fluid changed at some point from 1050017 to 89020661.  Anybody know what has changed, if anything?  The aftermarket fluids at the parts stores (Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, O'Reilly) all reference the 1050017 part number and a GM Spec - GM9985010.  Is there a new spec for 89020661?  Is the new stuff the same color as the old stuff?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T19:14:31.057" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T23:45:16.120" Title="Why did GM supercede/change part numbers for their power steering fluid?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4563" CreationDate="2012-10-21T04:49:23.553" Score="3" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;GM has changed the part number for the radiator surge tank cap on vehicles that came from the factory with Dex-Cool.  The new cap is 18 PSI (RC87 - part number 25713160), the old one for many vehicles was 15 PSI (RC75 - part number 10296465).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 94-96 B-Bodies (Caprice/Impala SS) and the C5/C6 Corvettes (Y-Body) came from the factory with 15 PSI caps and are being issued the new 18 PSI cap replacements by dealer parts departments.  Is this likely to cause any problems? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GM does a lot of strange things to save a buck.  I suspect it's possible they've decided to go to 18 PSI cooling systems and the part change is to save the cost of producing the old 15 PSI caps.  Can anybody confirm / deny?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_cool.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seems&lt;/a&gt; that fourth generation LT1 F-Bodies had factory 18 PSI caps and it is not common for the system to reach even 15 PSI.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T15:55:51.210" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T15:55:51.210" Title="Why did GM change the pressure rating of their coolant tank cap for existing vehicles?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|b-body|gm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T16:21:09.107" Score="4" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting CEL code 43 after doing a lot of work on my car (changing the head gasket, which involved removing and reattaching lots of exhaust and intake components, and replacing the fuel filter and other general maintenance), but otherwise it seems to be running fine. According to the Haynes manual this code means &quot;fuel supply system oxygen sensor&quot; and has some references for sections of the manual to see, but I can't find anything about what specifically would cause the CEL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's relevant, I also have the cooling fan wired to always-on, because the electronic sensor that switches it on/off is malfunctioning and never turning it on, so it takes the engine a bit longer than usual to get up to normal operating temperature. But I've run with no the thermostat removed before and never experienced a CEL 43, so I doubt this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T02:40:27.667" Title="CEL code 43 on 1992 Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|cel|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T18:46:03.687" Score="5" ViewCount="60068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting P0136 bank 1 sensor 2 circuit malfunction from my Toyota Camry 4 cylinder, which from past experience means I need to replace it.  I've replaced the O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold before.  However, is sensor 2 the sensor in the exhaust manifold, or is it the one underneath the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T03:32:20.947" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T16:39:43.400" Title="P0136 Bank 1 Sensor 2 - Sensor location" Tags="|toyota|sensor|o2-sensor|p0136|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T18:50:25.040" Score="6" ViewCount="5898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting P2238 Positive Current Circuit Low from my car, for O2 Sensor in Bank 1 Sensor 1 for my Toyota Camry 2004 (4 cylinder).  What is it and how can I fix this problem?  From what I've read on it, the answers are all over the board, so I am not sure what to think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T03:31:48.320" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T23:13:45.547" Title="P2238 Positive Current Circuit Low on Toyota Camry 2004" Tags="|toyota|sensor|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4658" CreationDate="2012-10-21T19:13:40.670" Score="9" ViewCount="22917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Civic and the 3rd brake light is having an issue. It seems in the morning (first cold start) it works when I depress the brake (I can see it light up the rear window). But after a few pumps, the light stops working. It is an LED array and I always thought that those should last way longer than regular bulbs, as in fact, I have not even replaced any tail lights just having an issue with this 3rd break light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go and spend $120-$200 for a replace and install, is there a way to see if something is causing a connection issue? Everything that I can reach seems to be attached and like I said, on first start up and for the first few bumps on the brake, it lights up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need this to work to pass my next vehicle inspection here in Mass, USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any first places to look or steps to trouble shoot that I can take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2229" LastEditorUserId="2229" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T19:25:35.390" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T21:04:26.370" Title="Third brake light (LED) test" Tags="|troubleshooting|tail-lights|indicators|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:43:29.793" Score="3" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced to brand new spark plugs.&#xA;After some research, it seems that the problem might be the direct ignition cassette.&#xA;Could there be other possibilities?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2331" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T09:25:00.423" Title="Engine Code P1312 on 2001 Saab 9-3" Tags="|engine|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4557" CreationDate="2012-10-22T09:28:00.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the light bar lights up means that it works. If the fault is consistent, I'd be more tempted to look for the fault at the brake pedal - where the switch for the light is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your existing brake lights work correctly, next step is to see whether they use the same switch, as per @Brian's comment. It may be that the LED bar has been wired in completely independently of the original lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T13:02:19.433" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T13:02:19.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2012-10-22T12:11:24.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not it's right for your car, I can't say as I don't know anything about Audis.  However, it's normal for there to be some (not a lot) oil in the intake of the cars I'm familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T12:11:24.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14719" CreationDate="2012-10-22T16:33:47.170" Score="5" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride &lt;strong&gt;Honda CD-100 SS&lt;/strong&gt;, a 100cc motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does increasing the wattage of the headlight bulb affect the mileage(fuel efficiency) of the motorcycle? If it does please explain how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2333" LastEditorUserId="4647" LastEditDate="2014-12-25T03:20:48.853" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:50:55.507" Title="Does increasing headlight wattage affects motorcycle mileage" Tags="|motorcycle|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4561" CreationDate="2012-10-22T17:11:26.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not by any amount you can measure, no. The power consumed by the bulbs are such a small fraction of the total that you would not notice it, unless you are adding multiple spotlights or going all retro-mod, maybe, like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2620126/Classic-Vespa-falls-foul-of-EU-emissions-rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pic from the Telegraph&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8BB0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T17:11:26.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4553" CreationDate="2012-10-22T20:41:52.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing the higher pressure cap will do is to increase the boiling point of the coolant slightly. 3psi isn't going to make a huge difference, but it will make some difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cooling system is in good shape, the higher pressure unlikely to cause problems. If your cooling system is already on the way out, well, then it'll be on the way out a little quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T20:41:52.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4554" CreationDate="2012-10-22T23:18:15.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the broken fan switch seems to have made the CEL go away. My best guess is that the ECU starts monitoring the O2 sensor output as soon as this sensor reads that the engine is hot, and gets upset when the O2 sensor is actually still cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Nope, the CEL is back, and gas mileage has been really bad (around 18-19mpg on a car that usually gets 28-30 city and 40+ highway). Any better ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T02:40:27.667" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T02:40:27.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2012-10-23T00:57:29.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the sensor downstream of the catalytic converter.  Bank 1 Sensor 1 would be upstream of the catalytic converter.  With a 4 cylinder, everything should be Bank 1 (No Bank 2).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Bank 1 Sensor 2 should be the one under the car.  The one on/at the exhaust manifold should be Bank 1 Sensor 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might eyeball the wiring and / or check it with a multimeter, it's possible you've just got a broken wire or a bad ground.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYMGnvtgi8w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.  You can also use a scan tool and see what the powertrain controller is seeing on a vehicle with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBDII.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T00:57:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4553" CreationDate="2012-10-23T14:16:15.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for GM, but one reason they &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be doing it is that they have a reputation for overheating under heavy use (heavy towing on the trucks and track days for the cars) amongst motorsports enthusiasts.  Bumping it up a few psi is relatively safe for the cars and may well be enough to help keep the overheating under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T14:16:15.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4557" CreationDate="2012-10-23T16:53:43.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good service manual will have extensive wiring diagrams and possibly troubleshooting procedures and connector locations.  With that and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multimeter&lt;/a&gt;, you can easily track the problem down.  I prefer factory service manuals over Haynes / Chilton / etc, but they're not cheap.  Looks like the one you would need would be $150 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHM&amp;amp;Model=CVCC&amp;amp;Year=2008&amp;amp;Category=&amp;amp;class_2=AHM&amp;amp;mk=Honda&amp;amp;yr=2008&amp;amp;md=Civic&amp;amp;dt=&amp;amp;module=&amp;amp;from=result&amp;amp;Style=helm&amp;amp;Sku=61SNA0A&amp;amp;itemtype=N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can verify the light is getting power but not illuminating, you can try replacing it.  If it's not getting power when it should, I'd suspect a wiring or switch problem.  I'd tend to agree with Rory, though, in that the switch is the top suspect.  To confirm / deny that hypothesis, you'd need to check the wiring going into and out of the switch while you toggle it.  That's about as far as you can go without some wiring diagrams.  If the switch is fine, you'll need to probe the rest of the wiring between the switch and the light.  This is where the factory manual would come in handy, showing you how the wiring is routed, what connectors there might be that you could probe in between the switch and the light and where they're located, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check the fuse, make sure that it's not loose and the terminals / blades are not dirty / corroded.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T17:27:42.897" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T17:27:42.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:40:38.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully your mechanic would pressure test the water pump before replacing it to determine if it's really bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having no heat is usually a symptom of a stuck open thermostat, but if that was the case, your temp gauge would not indicate hot...maybe a clogged heater core?  Did your heater core get flushed?  That wouldn't explain the temp gauge reading hot, though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any coolant leaks that are maybe coming from the pump?  Is the coolant level at the correct level?  Do you have the right mix of water and antifreeze?  Was the correct thermostat installed?  You might have air trapped in the system.  Did anybody bleed the coolant system after the flush to get rid of any trapped air?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why your mechanic suspects the radiator, did he explain his reasoning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the line going into your heater core under the hood, you can feel if it's hot after the engine has warmed up.  If it is, but you don't have any heat, maybe the vent flaps under the dash have some kind of intermittent problem?  Can you hear them actuating as you change the climate control settings (from heat to vent, floor to dash, vary the temperature)?  There might also be a vacuum or electrically activated valve on your heater lines that could be malfunctioning.  No coolant flow in the core would explain the lack of heat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd make sure the system was bled and maybe bleed it again.  If your temp is still running hot at that point I would think the water pump would start to become a suspect.  The heater problem may or may not be the same problem.  Check for a valve on the heater hoses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By now, you've probably got it back from the shop.  Any updates?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:02:23.820" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:02:23.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4529" CreationDate="2012-10-24T17:56:47.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's likely to be the source of your noise, but in the frequently helpful spirit of &quot;check the last thing you touched,&quot; you may want to look at your power steering fluid level. Low fluid can make for noisy PS systems, and if you just had the system open, it's worth checking. Maybe the system was incompletely bled when you topped up the PS fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T17:56:47.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4576" CreationDate="2012-10-24T18:33:36.210" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some countries, Government mixes ethanol with petrol &amp;amp; diesel and distributes it to their consumers. This will save some of their imports. My question is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I blend petrol with Zatropha plant seed based oil and run my motor cycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this technology can be possible, this also will help to reduce some percentage of imports of petrol and moreover Zatropha oil is available at cheaper cost, Zatropha plants are renewable and boost rural economy, if followed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try,What ratio of petrol and zatropha oil are to be mixed for running in a motorcycle?,What  modifications are necessary in the carburetor and spark plug?&#xA;What will be the effects when both fuels compared for pulling power, noise and smoke pollution, trouble free starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2333" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:55:43.890" Title="Alternate fuel for motor cyce" Tags="|fuel-system|performance|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2012-10-24T19:34:27.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need an A2DP receiver, these typically output to a 3.5mm male audio plug. A quick google search will yield many options. All require power of some sort. Some are rechargeable or can be charged by USB, which I would imagine would be best for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one option at newegg: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA07Y0AG5963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA07Y0AG5963&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T19:34:27.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-24T20:40:53.130" Score="16" ViewCount="3927" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question might be too technical for this forum, but I'll give it a go. I have a 2012 BMW R1200R motorcycle with CAN-BUS. I'd like to make an Arduino interface to the connector on the bike, but I don't know the pin definitions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do anyone know the pin definitions or how to figure out what they are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pin #.Wire color.Ohms with disconnected battery.Voltage with key off.Voltage with key on  &#xA;1     Green/Blue  3.2 ohms                       0 V                   12.25 V  &#xA;2     Red         2.2 KOhms                      12.9 V                12.32 V  &#xA;3     Brown       0.4 Ohms                       0 V                   0 V&#xA;4     Brown/Black 16 Ohms to 12.4 Ohms           ~0.003 V              11.2 V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 2: &lt;em&gt;Two +12V lines probably means this is a battery pin?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 3: &lt;em&gt;Possible ground pin with two 0 volt pins?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OBD Wiki&lt;/a&gt; shows that for these pins it must be one of three protocols: ISO 9141-2, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_14230&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 14230&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controller_Area_Network&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 15765&lt;/a&gt;. I don't have all the chips needed to test 9141 or 14230, but I'll have them and another update within two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIe21.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;R1200 Diagnostic Plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T00:46:43.393" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T00:46:43.393" Title="How do I find the correct pins in a CAN-BUS connector?" Tags="|motorcycle|bmw|obd-ii|computer|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2012-10-24T20:44:50.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming this isn't a daily driver, make sure it is legal locally to burn and start with small doses (2% mix) then add a little more every fill until it doesn't run properly. Then come back and tell us how it went! :) Also, this may foul plugs, ruin O2 sensors and lead to high carbon build-up, but all in the name of progress right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T20:44:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4579" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:56:56.503" Score="18" ViewCount="505372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was informed that a car I share ('02 Nissan Sentra) was close to overheating. I was told it gets close to the upper limit very quickly upon running the car. When I inspected the vehicle, I realized that the coolant overflow was empty and the radiator's coolant level was rather low (not sure exactly how low but it seems at most 75% remains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car must be taken to a mechanic. However, the mechanic I trust and usually use is about 30 miles away. I assume there is a leak in a hose, connector, or perhaps the water pump. The radiator is new so I do not suspect it is the source of this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I am assuming there will be a leak, I think that when I drive it, it will most likely loose coolant. Also because of this assumption, I am weary of putting coolant in if it is just going to leak out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming I will have to make a few stops to fill the overflow (not touching the radiator). Can I put pure water in the radiator and overflow tank and limp the car 30 miles (mostly on the freeway - yikes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great answers here, I just wanted to post what I actually ended up doing in the hopes of it helping someone at some point, or maybe to satisfy curiosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided not to go with pure water because I have read that a 50/50 ratio of coolant to water is desirable and figured even if it were leaking, should it be slow, I should follow best practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unsure what type of coolant my car used, so I just went to the dealer and got a container of what was standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reservoir was completely empty, and the radiator had a low level of water. I added some water (maybe 1.5L) to the radiator to top it off and I filled the reservoir to the &quot;MAX&quot; line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read from a post that a simple test you can do is to start the car, run it a little, turn it off, and then listen for a leak. I tried that, but perhaps the car did not get hot enough, or there wasn't a leak evident to that method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then looked on the ground for any evidence of a leak and saw none. I started the car and let it run while looking to see if any fluid was leaking and could not see any after a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I drove the car trying to maintain under 3000 rpm and made it to the mechanic's shop like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I would say this situation was mild in comparison to what could happen. I am definitely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommending to drive a car with a major leak, or even with a medium one. My car exhibited no signs of leaking and based off of that I drove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2343" LastEditorUserId="2343" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:26:37.293" LastActivityDate="2022-08-07T02:06:42.873" Title="Can I drive a car with only water and no coolant if it has a leak?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2012-10-25T05:42:29.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are mixing other fuel , you need make changes in compression ratio and that will depends on the type and amount of the mixed fuel. Other wise your new fuel mixture will not be explode properly then it will emit more carbon and smoke.This will make two problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More polution- this may illeagl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ruin engine life- More carbon will cause more friction for piston and improper oiling, which will make your engine very old soon &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T05:42:29.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2012-10-25T05:58:28.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think there is a leak and have 30 miles drive, then you can reserve some pure water with  ride and use it. pure water is not alternative for radiator coolant, because water will be boil quicker than coolant. but its far better than running empty coolant. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;One more thing if you are living in cold area do not keep water inside radiator  long ,It will freez and make more problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T07:00:40.737" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T07:00:40.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2012-10-25T08:19:27.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a major leak 30 miles may be too far, and you may cause major (very expensive) damage to your cylinder head or engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/138/37&quot;&gt;this question on driving without coolant!&lt;/a&gt; for some good advice (which broadly speaking boils down to &lt;strong&gt;don't do it!&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T08:19:27.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2012-10-25T13:40:53.110" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd try to figure out is how quickly it leaks - run it, stick your head underneath it as check if there is any visible leaking. If there is, chances are that it's not going to make it for 30 miles. I'd also check for any evidence of oil and water mixing. If there is, don't drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not leaking that badly I'd be tempted to top it up with plain water just to check if that reduces the temperature to something more normal. If it doesn't there's a chance that you either have a thermostat that's failed closed, a blockage in the cooling system or a really bad water pump. Again, check for leaks with the engine running and warm, any visible leaks this side of the odd drip and I'd be very careful about driving the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, water on its own tends to cool better than water + antifreeze, so you're not risking any damage from running water in the engine provided the outside temperature doesn't drop below freezing. Even then, you probably are going to be OK as hopefully there is a little antifreeze left in the existing coolant. Either way, advise the mechanic that he might have to drain the cooling system immediately depending on the outside temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, I would get the car transported to the mechanic - even if you pay retail for the recovery it's likely to be cheaper than a blown engine, unless the engine is fairly terminal already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T13:46:35.070" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T13:46:35.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2012-10-25T14:48:06.387" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Timo - if it is a big enough leak that you can see it clearly, then getting the car transported is much safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, using water as coolant is OK for a short time or as a &quot;get you home&quot; alternative, but it does not have the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibiting properties of a proper coolant mix, so should not be left in the engine for any length of time, especially if you live in a cold climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you should avoid adding cold water to a hot engine unless you have no other choice - there is a risk that it can cause a thermal shock and risk cracking the block, which would end up very expensive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:48:06.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2012-10-25T14:55:43.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly you can't generally blend plant-based oils with petrol (gasoline for our US readers) and expect them to burn in the same way, although you can do so with Diesel. This is because petrol is a much lighter oil than Diesel, wheras plant oils, while lighter, are much closer to Diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol is lighter still ( in fact, after methanol, is one of the shortest hydrocarbons possible... ), and so mixes well with either. To mix a plant oil with a light fuel, I believe you would have to ferment the plant matter first, then burn the resultant alcohol (i.e. ethanol) in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I await correction from those who know more chemistry than I...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:55:43.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:07:56.273" Score="5" ViewCount="3631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to travel 500 Km to my native village with a fully loaded vehicle along with 5 person in my WagonR. I also used to cruise with speed in between 80 to 100 Km/hr but the vehicle braking decrease very much in respect to only travelling with 5 person with little baggage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2344" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T16:20:33.933" Title="How to increase braking power in fully loaded Wagon-R" Tags="|braking|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4582" CreationDate="2012-10-25T16:48:17.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might need better tires, may need bigger brakes.  Make sure you're using appropriate tires for the load and conditions.  Consider trying better brake pads or possibly upgrading to a big brake kit.  Perhaps better brake cooling (such as cool air ducts) would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you're going to have to identify the weakest component in the list so that you can upgrade it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:48:17.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4582" CreationDate="2012-10-25T18:11:35.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that you can do to gain better braking ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your brake lines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles from factory usually come with stock rubber brake lines. Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines will lead to less 'gummy' feel when you step on the brakes. This also has the added effect of allowing more even pressure to be put on the brakes. Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braided_stainless_steel_brake_lines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wikipedia entry on braided stainless steel brake lines&lt;/a&gt; for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your brake pads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading from regular brake pads to track-style brake pads will greatly increase your braking performance. Track-style or racing brake pads usually tend to be louder under braking and tend to create a lot more brake dust, but provide amazing performance in comparison with stock brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your brake fluid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading your brake fluid from regular brake fluid to racing or track-specific brake fluid will again increase your braking performance. I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002TQ0WM4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super Blue Racing Fluid&lt;/a&gt; in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your Rotors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade your rotors to slotted or drilled or slotted-and-drilled for increased performance. Also, the bigger the rotors, the bigger area the pads have to bite and the more easily heat is dissipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade your tires from regular street tires to high-performance summer tires or high-performance all-season tires. Tires like Michelin Pilot Sport PS2, Ling Long L688, Nitto Invo, Yokohama S.Drive, Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport, Kumho Ecsta XS, etc are good tires with great bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade your driving style&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that with a higher load, your braking distance increases greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T18:11:35.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:17:55.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hemmings Motor News ran a two part article listing suppliers of parts for Thunderbirds.  It's available online: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2012/01/01/hmn_feature31.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2012/02/01/hmn_feature29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part2&lt;/a&gt;.  Maybe they have some you haven't checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably only Ford ever produced the part you're looking for, and they quit long ago.  You can check with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_old_stock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NOS&lt;/a&gt; vendors, a part number will help.  You might be able to get that from a Ford dealer, if it's still in the database.  Some enthusiast forums might be able to help, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, this is the era of 3-D printing and CNC machining.  If yours aren't too far gone to use as a template, you could have some custom made.  It might even be affordable (though not cheap) if you rounded up enough Thunderbird owners to split the cost with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:17:55.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4582" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:56:33.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a vehicle that you just bought it is possible that the brakes just aren't as good as your previous vehicle. From the information I could get online, this vehicle is equipped with drum type rear brakes. The problem may be that they are not adjusted correctly. Although the front discs do the majority of the braking ,the rear brakes must be adjusted correctly to achieve maximum braking. To an extent the rears brakes are self adjusting. There are a variety of self adjuster types from different manufacturers. Some require that you drive in reverse and apply quick pumps to the brake pedal, other require setting the park brake several times. The best self adjusters are marginal at best. The best way is to periodically have them adjusted as part of routine service. If after verifying that the brakes are working correctly you are still dissatisfied with their performance you may want to look at upgrades. The original pads were installed as a compromise of cost, noise, durability and stopping power. To stop faster you will most likely give up one or more of these characteristics. They may not last as long, they may wear rotors faster or make more noise. They certainly will cost more. Vented and drilled rotors will give better brake performance but at an increase in cost. An alternative would be to use engine braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:56:33.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4657" CreationDate="2012-10-25T21:00:48.383" Score="9" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when my cell phone is on charge in my 2007 BMW Z4 before I start it, nothing happens when I turn the key.  The car is acting like it, as if I did not have the clutch pushed in - the key turns, but it doesn't even try to crank.  It happens fairly often when the phone is on charge, but not always.  I've literally tried to start the car 5 times, then unplugged my phone, tried again, and it always starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it is somehow causing interference or diverting power that is meant for a device critical to the starting of the car.  Any ideas where to start looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had my battery checked, as it is most likely the original battery in the car.  My mechanic said the battery was still in great shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T06:53:14.993" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T13:33:10.720" Title="2007 BMW Z4 won't start when my phone is plugged into the cigarette lighter plug" Tags="|electrical|bmw|ignition|key|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2012-10-25T21:17:42.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know my vehicle is equipped with a battery load monitor. When the computer (I assume the body control module) senses a load above some factory set value for more than 10 minutes with the engine off, it disables the power circuit.  To reset it requires cycling the ignition switch. Turn the key to start nothing happens, turning the key a second type returns everything to normal. I know in my case you can forget a dome light, headlights or something plugged  into the accessory outlet and in 10 minutes they shut off. Your case does seem extreme as you must remove the load to get it to reset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:17:42.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5273" CreationDate="2012-10-25T23:01:33.110" Score="6" ViewCount="55315" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning after running the car for 2 miles, my car was still blowing freezing cold air. I messed with the temp knob moving it all the way cold to all the way hot a few times. Then I started to get warm air. It happend again tonight. This time I had to turn off the car and turn it back on again. What could be going wrong? Where do I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a '98 Chevy Malibu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T14:52:55.783" Title="Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air?" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4556" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:49:54.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick way to check your O2 sensor, is to record all the codes (On paper, or whatever) and swap the sensors. If the code goes to bank 2, than you know you need a sensor. These are sometimes hard to find, due to the many things that can trigger an O2 fault. This is just a quick way to check the sensors, just be sure to reset the codes after recording them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T07:49:54.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4589" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:56:43.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find the location of your heater valve, and see what the temperatures are like on both sides. Might just need a new heater valve, which allows coolant to flow to heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T07:56:43.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2012-10-26T12:50:43.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tank of gas cost 85$, so what is the point in risking brake performance over some 40$ rotors? It seems like a no-brainer to me. Unless you are on a tight budget, just replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2348" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:50:58.373" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:50:58.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="99" CreationDate="2012-10-26T13:33:49.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late model Taurus do use a special coolant (usually orangish) which, unlike the standard biennial flush and change, is only serviced at around 90,000 miles or the kilometric equivalent. Use of common antifreezes (green and blue) will do damage. Use the recommended Ford coolant in the Taurus. You might have been advised to go to Ford for the obvious reason that you went where you did: because you cannot, or prefer not, to service your own car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only best place to take questions about your mechanic's advice--naturally--would be a Ford service department--there is no charge for asking a question.  It sounds from here like your mechanic is truly knowledgeable; if he were a scoundrel, why not get keep the service to himself! If your Taurus is due for coolant service, it could well be that special equipment, say system recalibration or programming equipment or softwre, is not available to your and some other service shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer &quot;inspired&quot; by writer's own Taurus service manual; and direct admonition from Ford service and parts departments. If you can do your own coolant reservoir topping (but beware not to overfill), you can purchase the proper Motorcraft coolant for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastEditorUserId="2349" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:47:20.290" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:47:20.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:16:23.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bent cooling fins can most definitely increase engine running temps considerably; and you do have a significant amount of blockage. Only a few years ago my 23 year old pickup needed a new fan and fan clutch. I had grown accustomed to the temp meter running mid scale to slightly above mid scale, rather than below mid scale, and I had just chalked up the hotter running to engine aging. With the change of fan and clutch the temp characteristics did not change. Shortly after I replaced those items, the radiator developed a leak. So I replaced it and, with a fin straightener I bought along with the radiator, I straighened all fins, including in the AC exchanger through which air had to travel to arrive and be sucked though the radiator heat exchanger. I was amazed to find that the vehicle's normal operating temp returned to the same, characteristically low (below gauge mid range) operating temperature that it showed when brand new. Snce then there has been not the least occurence of hot running, even with radiator substantially underfilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do make it a practice to periodically inspect and striaghten fins. Also, take water hose and nozzle and flush/back flush insects and debris from those fins, too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:16:23.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:44:21.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You see, the problem with runnning with straight coolant--a don't know how that fad got started in the previous century--is that coolant has relatively little heat capacity; whereas water has very much (near tops) heat capacity--for which reason, the main coolant during summer driving is water, not antifreeze. The main purpose of commercial coolant/antifreeze (along with radiator cap) is to raise the boiling point and lower the freeze point of the water--that plus imparting anticorrosion qualities to the water. Because of water's and of antifreeze's separate and distinct advantages, the 50:50 water:coolant mix is typically found to provide the best compromise of advantages and disadvantages, for the widest range of average weather conditions... for all makes and models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2349" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:44:21.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-27T06:08:16.643" Score="3" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;My relatives bought a diesel car and I found out that their gas mileage is better than my petrol gas mileage. Now, the price of petrol is soaring. Can I increase my mileage to match their gas mileage? My engine and tires are well maintained. I stop the engine at the traffic signal but I still lag behind by miles per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2344" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T00:36:44.437" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:03:12.307" Title="how to increase mileage of petrol to match with diesel car" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4598" CreationDate="2012-10-27T09:35:09.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. You can't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand a little, both diesel and petrol technologies are continually improving, so you can make incremental changes to your engine in terms of engine management, input air flow etc., and also things like use low rolling resistance tyres etc. But you cannot change the basic fact that your engine is less efficient than his - whether or not one is diesel or petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can learn to drive more efficiently (see &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hypermiler.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hypermiling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for an extreme version of this - some of the techniques may reduce your safety, so be careful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to increase your mileage significantly, you will need to change your engine or your car. Newer cars are generally much more efficient than older cars, and diesel technology currently has a mileage advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T09:35:09.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-27T17:35:04.987" Score="-3" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Donor cables hooked up correctly, while the receiving car cables were reversed. It didn't start, but smoked instead. Mechanic shop used a portable jumper, then used receiving car again and had cables reversed. Again it smoked and didn't start.  Then a friend checked and said alternator fuse had blown. They replaced it with a 75A instead off 100A fuse with instructions to replace right away back to the normal amperage fuse. They checked the battery and alternator with machine and they checked out ok. I took the car to a shop and replaced alternator fuse and radio fuse. They said the battery was shorted and alternator was no good. Is this possible with regard to battery and alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2351" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T22:58:43.613" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:58:43.613" Title="Jumping car battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-18T04:35:09.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4589" CreationDate="2012-10-27T18:44:16.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a mitsubishi, so it's a different car, but there is a motor that opens and closes the heater door.  It's going out, so sometimes I can hear it click and either engage/disengage when I turn the heat dial, so it's an erratic problem.  Could be something similar on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now it's not engaging, so it's blowing cold air, even though the heater itself is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T18:44:16.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4598" CreationDate="2012-10-28T02:43:07.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few simple ways to increase gas mileage, but not at par with a diesel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Operate the vehicle at speeds in the range given in the dash&#xA;board as green color and never run the vehicle at red mark indication.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep a minimum payload, take out everything you don't need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Service the engine periodically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the vehicle at proper gearing and proper speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the car in gear when moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your spark plugs clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your tires properly inflated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid running the A/C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid heavy braking, and avoid heavy acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain bearings and moving parts, grease appropriately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the air filter often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before starting the vehicle check the oil and coolant levels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any edits or edit suggestions are most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2333" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T00:35:43.860" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:35:43.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4605" CreationDate="2012-10-29T22:40:18.527" Score="6" ViewCount="11236" Body="&lt;p&gt;My windshield washer pump in my Toyota Yaris Verso has stopped working. The fuse seems to be fine, so either it's due to a loose connection, or the pump is broken. What is the likely cause, and how can I access the pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T07:51:42.517" Title="How to fix windshield washer pump in Yaris Verso" Tags="|toyota|windshield|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4604" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:32:02.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pump is usually mounted to the bottom of the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common causes of failure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected or clogged hose with the engine off can you hear the motor running under the hood? If so could be a clogged or disconnected hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax or other debris in the jets, if the jets are located on the hood they can get clogged with wax or dirt, if you hear the pump motor running and there are no disconnected or clogged hoses this may be your problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad motor, check for voltage at the terminals connected to the motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If no voltage to the motor you may have a bad wiper switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:32:02.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4607" CreationDate="2012-10-30T07:57:22.430" Score="8" ViewCount="19468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two wheeler i.e. bike (Honda company, four stroke) which has four gear. While driving my bike, when I come to downhill slopes, I shift the motorcycle to neutral to save the fuel. (The slopes are not very long, so I cant turn off engine because I have no starter to quickly start it :) ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one of my friends suggested not to use neutral, but only hold the clutch while the bike is in gear. So I want to ask, what saves the fuel more between these two cases, shifting to neutral, or just holding the clutch?&#xA;Or are both of these useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T05:11:55.413" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T01:19:27.073" Title="How to save fuel on downhill slopes on a motorcycle: clutch or neutral?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|clutch|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2012-10-30T10:32:38.753" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holding the clutch in is generally not a good idea. The clutch is designed to be used for very short periods between gears, and for holding in first when you are about to pull away. So if you are wanting to coast you should definitely do it in neutral. The difference between these two from a fuel consumption perspective should be marginal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From a safety perspective, however, I would suggest this would be a mistake:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are very vulnerable on a motorbike, so using all safety mechanisms at your disposal should be encouraged. Your engine is a safety mechanism when going downhill - you can accelerate out of danger, or you can use engine braking in addition to your brakes in order to slow down safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice - only use neutral when stationary, and only use the clutch to change gears or to prepare to pull away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T10:32:38.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2012-10-30T10:44:00.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coasting in neutral or with the clutch disengaged will save the same amount of fuel.  In both cases the engine will return to the minimum idle speed. However you will coast for a slightly longer distance at a slightly greater speed by having the transmission in neutral. This is due to the frictional drag of the wheel turning the chain and the chain turning the internal gears of the transmission. You are also increasing the wear on the clutch release assembly by holding it in the disengaged position. If you normally just coast down the hill with the throttle closed (not accelerating with engine power) the amount of fuel you save will be minimal as the throttle will be off anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T10:44:00.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T11:21:08.267" Score="9" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that I need to replace the shock absorber in my 1992 316i BMW. When I attempt to visit a web site to order the part it does not list any of parts with this name.  I know nothing about cars and parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2290" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T23:00:37.117" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T23:00:37.117" Title="What is a shock absorber?" Tags="|suspension|bmw|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:12:12.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be listed under &quot;strut assembly&quot; (either McPherson or Chapman, depending on which one you need).  These days cars normally have struts.  About the only place a true standalone shock absorber is seen anymore is on trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:12:12.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2012-10-30T21:06:10.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shock absorber is a device that uses hydralic compression to absorb the impact when a car hits a bump or to help the car ride more smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T21:06:10.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2012-10-30T23:31:48.920" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is a shock absorber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer the basic title question with a carefully selected quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shock_absorber#Vehicle_suspension&quot;&gt;the great Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... their intended sole purpose is to dampen spring&#xA;  oscillations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of how you want your car to ride when driving down a smooth road that has a bump or pothole. You expect to feel a mild jolt when the car travels over the bump and then return to a smooth ride. The suspension uses two main components to provide this to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spring (as opposed to a rigid rod connecting vehicle to its wheel). This gives the suspension some flex to absorb the impact, reducing a painful impact to the mild jolt mentioned above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shock absorber (also known as a damper). This damps the oscillation of the spring and handles the &quot;return to a smooth ride&quot; part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the spring, every bump would hit your spine like a sledgehammer. Without the damper, the bouncing spring would continue down the road, making you seasick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Sedan/Europe/316i-M40/LHD/M/1992/february/browse/front_axle/front_spring_strut_shock_absorber/&quot;&gt;your 316i apparently has McPherson struts&lt;/a&gt;. This part allows you to connect the spring and damper &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McPherson_strut#Design&quot;&gt;into one assembly&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The strut will usually carry both the coil spring on which the body is&#xA;  suspended and the shock absorber, which is usually in the form of a&#xA;  cartridge mounted within the strut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a strut, the shock absorber cartridge sits inside the vertical tube of the strut while the spring rests on top of the wide collar.  A strut top sits on top of the spring and is attached to the vertical shaft rising out of the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you mechanic is telling you that you need to replace a shock absorber, they almost certainly mean that you need to replace the strut, not the spring.  Given the age of the vehicle, it would be a good idea to ask if the strut top needs replacing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T23:31:48.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4529" CreationDate="2012-10-31T02:22:46.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the speedometer cable.  Lubing it with WD-40 has helped significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold weather makes it worse.  It's coming from the dashboard, and is correlated with wheel speed, and it sounds like the noise at &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ICiJuEBbf6A&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/ICiJuEBbf6A&lt;/a&gt;, except it's more consistent once it starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2318" LastEditorUserId="2318" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T21:50:58.813" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:50:58.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4636" CreationDate="2012-10-31T02:41:49.763" Score="3" ViewCount="4455" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt; All my life I drove FWD (Front Wheel Drive) cars. I drove FWD in different conditions with all-season tires and always got good and even predictable handling during winter periods. In short I would say that over steer is always cured by acceleration and under steer with a bit of braking and/or hand brake. Also never got stuck in snow and I drive manual gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dilemma:&lt;/strong&gt; Now I am thinking about buying RWD (rear wheel drive), however my friends keep telling me that I will have issues during winter. Getting stuck in snow, over steer, additional set of winter tires (requirement) and such. I google the topic and it seems that generally people agree with above mentioned issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I do not intend to have RWD car as a weekend/fun drive. It must be a daily drive: go to work, shop and such in any weather conditions at any time. Also I don't have a garage and storage of winter/summer tire set will be an issue. Therefore I would like to be able to drive all-season tires. Also I am looking only at manual transmission if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How troublesome is it to have RWD with above mentioned conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What will be safer: RWD vs FWD on dry pavement, gravel, snow, ice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) What generally has better handling and traction during bad weather: heavy rain, snow, ice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Is it more expensive to own/maintain/drive RWD (given that RWD seems to always be more expensive vs FWD at a dealership)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S:&lt;/strong&gt; Please answer all of above questions and feel free to add your own experiences. I would like to get a feel of what it is like to have RWD before I buy it. I really don't want to make purchase and regrade it later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T19:13:11.287" Title="FWD vs RWD winter time" Tags="|drivetrain|winter|rwd|driving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2012-11-04T00:34:50.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2012-10-31T09:39:48.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of what your friends have told you is nonsense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will possibly have less chance of getting stuck in the winter in a RWD car, as RWD gives you more grip when trying to accelerate forwards (as weight moves rearward). Whenever I have had to rescue friends in FWD cars, I usually need to use reverse to get grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional set of winter tyres? Nope - only if you do that anyway for your current car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance of a RWD car could be a little more expensive (as you have the extra transmission from the front of the car to the rear) but generally this isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A RWD car &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be much safer than a FWD car, however it depends what you are used to. FWD is more forgiving in certain circumstances (eg when coming into a corner too fast it will gently understeer, which many feel is a safer way to have an accident than oversteer) but it is less controllable in general, so an experienced driver will find a RWD car safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always prefer a RWD car to a FWD car in any slidy conditions, as there is more you can do in an emergency, you can easily tailor the amount of over- and understeer using the accelerator, and the balance in a RWD car is usually better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt; - none of the issues listed should sway you much one way or the other unless you are an experienced driver, in which case RWD can be safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a difference - get 4WD. Slightly higher maintenance costs, but &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; better grip than FWD or RWD!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T09:39:48.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2012-10-31T11:35:51.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is a good idea. safety is more important than millage. If you holding clutch or neutral gear while downhill, then you may have to put more pressure on brakes . if it is a long hilly drive there's a chance for overheating brake-pads. If it become over heated then brakes will not be work properly. That's why drivers use engine brake in downhill,  So I'm not recommending for holding clutch or neutral while downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T11:35:51.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2012-10-31T12:17:30.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it depends on where you live.  I've driven mostly RWD, with some FWD and AWD.  The only car I've ever gotten stuck in snow was FWD (when strong gusty winds blew me sideways off an icy road and into a snowbank).  We can get sizeable amounts of snow some years here in Ohio, and even when driving around on Summer tires in the Winter I didn't ever get my RWD stuck.  However, it was close to being stuck a couple times (had to do a lot of wheel spinning to keep it moving).  Notably though, in both those occasions the snow was so deep that the bottom of the car was riding on it (5.5&quot; ground clearance).  FWD isn't going to do any better in that circumstance.  Winter tires are highly recommended for all though.  Starting and turning aren't too bad on any old tire, but the decrease in stopping distance from Winter tires can save your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T12:17:30.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2012-10-31T14:29:53.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) How troublesome is it to have RWD with above mentioned conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) What will be safer: RWD vs FWD on dry pavement, gravel, snow, ice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) What generally has better handling and traction during bad weather:&#xA;  heavy rain, snow, ice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all do respect i have to disagree with Rory Alsop's asnwer. Please do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a.) Look up advertisments for BMW and Mercedes Benz advertisments in the last 10 years. Many of them are based on the fact that the electronic driving assistance helps your RWD car to get out of snow or a muddy situation. Ever had to push out your uncle's bimmer from a snowy garden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b.) Look for videos on youtube where people are sliding of their line in the city with their BMW or they can't drive up a small steep road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c.) Try it yourself in course where they let you 'slide' with your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Is it more expensive to own/maintain/drive RWD (given that RWD&#xA;  seems to always be more expensive vs FWD at a dealership)?&#xA;  It has more parts. (GARD axis) More parts generally means more thing to go wrong. More to take care. (not taking into account the difference between makes obviously)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I really don't want to make this a flame so this is not an answer against RWD. Just to make it clear: i love RWD cars. I was just trying to form my own opinion based on my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2345" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T14:29:53.113" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2012-10-31T22:08:04.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to understand that both consume the minimum amount of gas, but also, if you going &lt;strong&gt;downhill in 6th gear&lt;/strong&gt;, and you have a &lt;em&gt;injection fuel engine&lt;/em&gt;, this has exactly the same effect, and the injectors cut all the gas to the cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only carburator engines spend gas if you're shifting gear and not accelarate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a safety point, never use neutral, even if some bikes have a neutral between 5th and 6th gear, it's easy to shift the top gear and just cruise without gassing up if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T22:08:04.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:49:55.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake system components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of brakes systems used in vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disc Brake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drum Brake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ausco Lambert disc brake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Rotor and Caliper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brake rotor spins on an axis attached to a shaft.  A caliper straddles a brake rotor and clamps the rotor with brake pads.  Brake pads actuated by the caliper hydraulically squeeze the rotor through pneumatic or hydraulic force to apply friction and slow the vehicle.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ioY1Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ioY1Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:12:32.727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:12:32.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:49:55.350" Score="0" Body="Brake systems on vehicles are typically driven by either pneumatic or hydraulic systems that multiply the force applied by an operator to slow a vehicles rate of speed through the use of friction." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:13:25.303" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:13:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:51:56.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Air Conditioning System&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N28ki.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N28ki.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T08:05:00.110" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T08:05:00.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4623" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:51:56.580" Score="0" Body="Questions about Air conditioning systems - other Heating and ventilation questions should use 'hvac'" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T13:51:56.580" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T13:51:56.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:53:27.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A set of hollow tubes or pipes that burnt fuel gasses flow into on an internal combustion engine.  The exhaust system can be comprised of an exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, header pipe and muffler as well as house various sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of an exhaust system for an automobile&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52aBp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52aBp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:04:59.197" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:04:59.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:53:27.500" Score="0" Body="Questions about Exhaust systems, Catalytic Converters and Headers/Manifolds" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T13:53:27.500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T13:53:27.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:29:15.570" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 2004 VW R32, after shutting down the engine, a repeated thump is heard approximately 2 times a second from the rear of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the likely sources of this noise? My first thought is something related to the evaporative emissions (EVAP) system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T21:07:45.037" Title="Thumping from rear of car after shutdown: EVAP system?" Tags="|vw|noise|evap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4697" CreationDate="2012-11-02T00:00:09.493" Score="0" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two years ago I published &lt;a href=&quot;http://infosecfrog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/being-prepared.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt; on being prepared for the winter, covering off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planning the route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supplies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geek essentials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these might be a bit tongue in cheek, but broadly speaking I think I got the basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I drive a lot, including through the winter, my question is: have I missed anything essential from a mechanical, electrical or drivetrain viewpoint that might risk my life or safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T14:45:40.123" Title="What essential preparations should I take before winter driving?" Tags="|safety|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4609" CreationDate="2012-11-02T11:07:01.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It keeps your car's springs from bouncing up and down uncontrollably when you go over bumps. It looks like a bicycle pump and actually works in much the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T11:07:01.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4632" CreationDate="2012-11-02T12:19:41.257" Score="2" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are modern radiators made from aluminium with plastic ends? What is the durability compared to 100% aliuminium radiators?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T06:57:13.393" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T21:06:46.153" Title="Plastic end-tank radiator" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4631" CreationDate="2012-11-02T12:50:42.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the improvements in modern antifreeze I rarely see radiator failures. Not that they don't happen, just no where near as often they did years ago. I think the crimped seal is more resistant to fatigue failure then the older brazed tanks were. Since aluminum can be expensive to shape and weld I am sure the reason for the change was a cost savings issue. Plastic is cheaper and easier to form than brass or copper or aluminum. The crimp is done by a machine that most likely is cheaper and faster than a robotic welder or a skilled craftsmen doing it by hand. Most of the failures I see now are either impact damage or the cooling fins separating from the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T12:50:42.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4637" CreationDate="2012-11-02T16:08:56.120" Score="7" ViewCount="9863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently there has been a lot of fog on all of the windows in the car, particularly on my windshield.  It's been bad enough that I've had to stop and wipe the glass off, but the fog can come back during a drive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause all of this fog on the windshield?  What things can I try myself, before taking it to the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Subaru Forester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T18:50:08.267" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T18:35:14.167" Title="What can cause excessive fog on a windshield?" Tags="|subaru|windshield|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2044" CreationDate="2012-11-02T16:56:57.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the car have an alarm system?  That is the only &quot;stock&quot; item I would reasonably expect to have an independent power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not an alarm, did you buy the car used?  If the previous owner was &quot;credit challenged,&quot; it's possible that whoever financed them put in a remote kill switch to aid in location and repossession.  It stands to reason that such a device would have its own power source.  It seems like they would have put that in the engine compartment, not the undercarriage, but you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for any sort of exterior markings (model #, serial #, logos, etc.), and post a picture if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't figure out what it is, I guess you could try just unhooking it and see if the car behaves without it.  Just make sure you disconnect everything cleanly, and that everything is labeled so you can reconnect it if it is a necessary component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2318" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T16:56:57.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2012-11-02T17:47:02.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened to my Hyundai Santro's headlights the last time it rained, when I did not use it for a while. The service center guys said the lights have to be replaced. I don't know about other cars, but for a Santro headlight assembly, there is a water vent closed by a rubber bud that is situated near the indicator connection. You can remove the headlight from the car and drain all the water through this vent, replace it and then put the headlight back in place. For the remaining drops, you can run the car with headlights on (even in daylight) so that the remaining water drops can evaporate and come out through the same vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2368" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T00:37:07.540" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:37:07.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4614" CreationDate="2012-11-02T19:13:11.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up in Finland, where winters are long and icy. Mostly drove RWD cars, but also, at times, owned FWD and AWD ones. If you look at all the nordic/scandinavian rally champions, they preferred front wheel drive, until the Audi Quattro changed rallying forever. But that is assuming you are a professional rally driver... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no clear answer - neither FWD or RWD is clearly better, as long as you have the skills to deal with their respective idiosyncratic traits/features. Do some practice on ice or slip track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to complexity/maintenance, the front suspension/steering system of a FWD car has to deal with transmitting torque through a joint, so the steering system is under much more strain - offsetting the added complexity of a drive shaft and rear diff in a RWD car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2369" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T19:13:11.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4633" CreationDate="2012-11-02T21:55:49.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the fog is from excessive humidity in the vehicle. The three most common sources I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A leak that allows rain water to collect in the car. Check to see if the rugs are damp, look in the storage well behind the seat and any place water might collect. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you also notice a sweet smell when the engine gets warm? If you do it may be a leaking heater core. Antifreeze could be leaking into the heater box then the vapor is fogging the windshield. Antifreeze residue can be difficult to remove from the windshield. Try rubbing a clean tissue on the inside of the glass. The tissue may show the oily component of the antifreeze.It may be a small leak as a little antifreeze goes along way in terms of fogging the glass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third source could be the A/C. The A/C unit removes humidity from the air. This is what causes the puddle under the car when the A/C is running. Sometimes the drain get clogged with leaves or pine needles. This allows the water to build up which adds humidity when you run the defroster. If enough has collected you may hear it sloshing under the dash when you make a turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:09:08.550" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:09:08.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4642" CreationDate="2012-11-02T23:42:41.977" Score="4" ViewCount="2395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just had my 2012 Tacoma towed to the dealership due to the truck not shifting into reverse correctly. I first noticed a problem when I was driving home and the RPMs would get up to between 3 and 4 and it felt as if the gears weren't changing properly. I shifted back into neutral and then into drive again and everything seemed to be going fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I pulled into a parking spot and later attempted to put it in reverse and pull out. The truck acts like it's in neutral when put in reverse (I can put the gear shift in reverse but the gear is not changing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2WD 6 cyl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Truck is &amp;lt; 1 year old&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has ~ 14,000 miles on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has had regular scheduled maintenance on time for the last year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; The tow truck guy just called and said that he &quot;jerked&quot; the truck while it was attached to the chain on the tow and was able to put it in reverse. I'll still have the dealership look at it tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Yep, the entire transmission is being replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastEditorUserId="2370" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T15:24:25.357" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T14:24:34.300" Title="2012 Toyota Tacoma won't shift into Reverse" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-03T00:25:08.883" Score="1" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a problem with a turbo Diesel  97 Hilux ute. It now has a recon gear box and new clutch. Problem is sometimes I can put my foot down on the clutch and the car is still in gear and moving (1st, 2nd and reverse), I cannot get it out of gear. I then just turn off the motor then turn it back on and am able to get it out of gear. Any Idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2371" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T12:00:41.753" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T23:56:27.233" Title="1997 turbo Diesel Toyota Hilux Gear Selection Problem" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4633" CreationDate="2012-11-03T01:33:59.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an a/c, you can leave it on even if you have the heat on and it will clear the fog. Wipe down the inside of your windows with windex, that will also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:33:59.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2012-11-03T02:09:35.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having this problem myself. From what I've read so far, the three main suspects are the main relay under the driver dash, the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump, in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links I visited, the symptoms described by other people with a faulty main relay are nearly identical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/1992-honda-accord-wont-start-7915.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/1992-honda-accord-wont-start-7915.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1360838&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T23:03:38.830" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T23:03:38.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2012-11-03T06:02:29.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission is malfunctioning, cut and dry. If it's 1 year old, sit back and let the dealership replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T06:02:29.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4646" CreationDate="2012-11-03T11:21:11.387" Score="2" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought used 2003 Kia Sedona.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left side mirror accidentally hit a pole at my house, flipping the left side mirror backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pushed it back, and it looks normal but I can no longer adjust it electronically, the internal motor runs but cannot move the mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I repair it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2372" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T18:49:35.880" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:19:37.717" Title="How to repair a 2003 Kia Sedona side mirror" Tags="|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2012-11-03T14:56:02.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if safety were of no concern, you still should not put a motorcycle in neutral at speed. &quot;So if you are wanting to coast you should definitely do it in neutral.&quot; Yikes! If your motorcycle has a synchronized gearbox, at the very least you are causing harmful wear and tear on your gearbox by taking it in and out of neutral at high speeds. Worst case scenario, doing so will break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T18:57:03.127" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T18:57:03.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4643" CreationDate="2012-11-03T19:19:37.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you discover that the internal gearing is broken, you will most likely need to purchase a new one and replace the damaged mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0041TUBWS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/TYC-8140032-Sedona-Non-Heated-Replacement/dp/B0041TUBWS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1351970333&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=2003+kia+sedona+side+mirror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:19:37.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4589" CreationDate="2012-11-03T19:27:46.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 miles isn't enough for some cars to heat up, is this the first time this has happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check your coolant level, cold and hot. If it's good, You likely need a new thermostat, the piece that controls the flow of coolant to the radiator. If that doesn't fix it, then check the heater valve as FossilizedCarlos mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:27:46.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4626" CreationDate="2012-11-03T19:55:47.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely a leaking EVAP hose or a leak in the fuel line. Make sure it's nothing obvious like a hose hanging off or a gas cap missing. Also check for a check engine light and have the OBD code read if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a small chance that your fuel pump relay or fuel pump is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:55:47.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4631" CreationDate="2012-11-03T19:58:42.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum radiators are more expensive to make. They are a hint more durable, but the increased cost is rarely worth the increase in weight and very small increase in durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T21:06:46.153" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T21:06:46.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4665" CreationDate="2012-11-04T11:09:42.700" Score="1" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is main diferences beetwen RHD and LHD wiper linkage?&#xA;Is possible some how convert RHD -&gt; LHD wiper linkage for BMW E46?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have good working LHD wiper linkage motor and full RHD linkage with motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EfAVM.png&quot; alt=&quot;BMW E46 wiper linkage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T11:37:52.933" Title="Wiper linkage converting from RHD to LHD" Tags="|bmw|windshield-wipers|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4656" CreationDate="2012-11-04T11:15:44.347" Score="13" ViewCount="123397" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cigarette lighter outlet was never designed to be an electrical outlet the way it's commonly used today. Even so, I've yet to find a plug for charging USB devices that fits and doesn't fall out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All plugs I know have some little metal  nub in the center that practically never gets enough contact with the socket's center base, and the sides of the plug are never effective at keeping the plug pressed in well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make the plug stay in place? How can I easily modify the socket to make it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car's socket is vertical (pointing straight up). I don't want to dismantle my car, although it would be cool to have a USB socket in the console! This must be a common problem; how do people solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVUp0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="510" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T18:43:26.337" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T04:27:38.743" Title="Charger doesn't stay put in cigarette lighter outlet" Tags="|electrical|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4655" CreationDate="2012-11-04T11:44:49.073" Score="6" ViewCount="21766" Body="&lt;p&gt;In extension of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4651/charger-doesnt-stay-put-in-cigarette-lighter-outlet&quot;&gt;this Q about the power outlet&lt;/a&gt; I have a related question about how to secure the USB charging cable that runs from the power plug in the cigarette lighter socket to the corner of the windshield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a GPS device (or a cell phone cradle) in the corner of the windshield. I need to run a USB cable there to provide power to the device. I have a simple USB power plug for the lighter socket, and a black USB cable that is long enough to cover the distance while following the bends and curves of the dashboard -- so it's not a clothesline strung straight through the car. It &lt;em&gt;can be&lt;/em&gt; neat and tidy along some ridges and edges, if I find a way to do it. &lt;strong&gt;How do I affix the cable to the dashboard in a reasonably simple yet elegant way?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's where I plan to have the cable (orange) from the charger (red) to the device (green). There are some seams here where plastic parts meet. I can't stuff the cable into the seam but perhaps I could stick some kind of clip into the seam to hold the cable in place along the outside of this seam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrZeo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I could hot-glue the cable in place, but that would be hideous and also hard to remove. I asked my local car shop if they had some black cable clips or something self-adhesive, but they don't. They could only offer me some black masking tape to use. The shop told me that enthusiasts (who put all kinds of electricals everywhere in their cars) can disassemble the dashboard and run the cables internally. But I'm just a regular guy that doesn't want to dismantle my car :-) I don't want to end up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://s755.beta.photobucket.com/user/J1MMCD/media/Stripped_Dash.jpg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:09:50.897" Title="How can I elegantly secure a USB charging cable to the dashboard?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-04T14:29:48.390" Score="4" ViewCount="4458" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS light came on after car was not used for a few weeks and a new battery fitted. The ABS light is now on all the time. The garage can't find the diagnostic plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on either of the issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2377" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T04:19:22.303" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T21:37:26.823" Title="How to diagnose ABS problem (ABS light on) on a 1992 Volvo 940 turbo diesel estate?" Tags="|diesel|volvo|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4676" CreationDate="2012-11-04T16:23:26.457" Score="4" ViewCount="3142" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the trick from removing the cooler lines from the transmission on my 2000 k1500?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to disconnect the lines. I just don't know how to reach the clip on the lower connection on the transmission. There just isn't room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not removing the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case anyone is wondering how to disconnect the lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Method 1:&#xA;Slide the blade of a small flat screwdriver along the line into the connector.&#xA;Move the blade around the tube until the small metal clip to poke out.&#xA;Sometime it will stay poking out if not just leave the driver there and use another small flat driver or some pliers to pull the clip off. &#xA;**DON'T force it.** Just work the clip around and off.&#xA;Then just pull the line out.&#xA;&#xA;Method 2:&#xA;Slide a small flat screwdriver in the grove of the receptacle at the open end of the clip. With a small amount of pressure the clip will come up and out.&#xA; **DON'T force it.** Just work the clip around and off.&#xA;Then just pull the line out.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T07:53:40.450" Title="Remove transmission cooler lines K1500 '00" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2012-11-04T17:02:49.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a different route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting at your end point (the green dot) put the connector on the dash where you want it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the cable next to the front vent glass. Push the cable down the crack between the glass and the dash. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the door. There is usually room to run small cable down the left side. Sometimes you can tuck a single cable under the weather striping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a seam in the trim to make a transition under the dash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the cable under dash along any existing harness to the center console.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the center console run the cable down the back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you reach the floor take the route you have already diagrammed. The plastic housing around the gear select will usually have some give and press into the carpet. Just push the cable under the housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the cable is ran use zip ties to secure it in place. There are some zip ties with sticky pads on them that you can use behind the A/C control area. You shouldn't have to remove anything major. Making the transition from the door jam to under the dash will be the only tricky part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep in mind that you do not want to run the cable in the way of anything that moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipU5w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T17:02:49.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2012-11-04T17:13:44.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at the item you are plugging into the outlet rather then the outlet. Most of the time the cheap USB chargers aren't built correctly. Some times you can just put a flat screwdriver under the wings on the side and pry them up so they stick out more. Another option would be to use an adapter like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000IG5PU6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some tom foolery you could just wire in the guts of your USB changer and then mount the port somewhere tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastEditorUserId="2378" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T17:28:26.633" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:28:26.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2012-11-04T18:23:20.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would venture to guess that it's a overprotective starter lockout circuit. Get something else to plug into the outlet (map light, different changer, inverter, fan...) and see what happens. If it works with a different device plugged in then it's your charger. I don't know why it would behave that way but it's worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T18:23:20.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4557" CreationDate="2012-11-04T19:22:41.087" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much deliberation on going to repair shop, I figured I would at least poke around as it could not make anything worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here was the problem. The negative terminal wire soldering point was loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the LED array. (Pictures to come) Video of removal process &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLS3CQykji8&amp;amp;noredirect=1&quot;&gt;here on youtube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the rear plastic shroud(with a few upward slaps) by folding down the rear seats and slap the edge of the shroud up. Slide the shroud forward as there are tabs that the part nearest the window slide into(and is then held in by the clips you released by &quot;slapping up&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the LED mount and the round plastic speaker rim(the rim looks to be like a gasket, not a part of the speaker.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the LED array from the rear shroud. I found my issue by plugging in the light and tapping around. It would flicker so I knew something was loose. After pressing the neg terminal solder spot, I could see that although it looked solid, it was not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated up the solder iron, tapped a little solder on there and tested. The LEDs worked! Keeping the pedal depressed, I simulated bumps and the like while it was plugged in, no flicker, all solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassembled in reverse of above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This saved me over $200.00 in parts and labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2229" LastEditorUserId="2229" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T18:30:01.507" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T18:30:01.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4639" CreationDate="2012-11-05T02:16:33.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your clutch isn't bled correctly, causing it to not disengage from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the car on/off (are you coasting when you do this?) possibly causes slack in the transmission which allows the gears to be released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If true, the same effect can be had much easier by simultaneously pulling the gear lever toward neutral while letting off of the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T02:16:33.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2012-11-05T04:05:56.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of trying something else, but also try a different outlet if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that plug/circuit might be defective somehow and is creating a short when you plug something in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T04:05:56.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2012-11-05T04:21:14.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe when the tank is low you are effecting the vacuum on the engine. Many cars rely on the vacuum to tell the transmission when to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have thoughts on this idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T04:21:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4545" CreationDate="2012-11-05T04:26:20.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that all cars after 96 I believe have OBD installed, it is possible to make a device that records your every move (I am actually making one &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4573/602&quot;&gt;as we speak&lt;/a&gt;). ODB may do this already (the car needs this info for other tasks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is not necessarily court approved and depending on the offense and the level of court it may not be admissible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T04:26:20.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4664" CreationDate="2012-11-05T05:55:05.723" Score="5" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently designing a customer relationship management tool for auto shop owners and was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does engine type or the odometer value of a car ever affect pricing for a customer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What considerations must be made to accommodate these differences?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2379" LastEditorDisplayName="user2379" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T06:20:53.467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T15:05:10.650" Title="When do engine type and mileage of a car affect pricing?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4663" CreationDate="2012-11-05T08:08:28.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The odometer reading is one of the key factors for pricing of a used car. The combination of mileage, age and physical condition of the car are enough to vary the price anywhere down to a tiny fraction of the list price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine size, while important, it's more like the difference an alternative model may have. One engine size might be known as the best one (eg the 2.8 Ford Capri)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at some used car websites and do your own comparison based on mileage and you will see how significant it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T08:08:28.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4650" CreationDate="2012-11-05T11:37:52.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will almost certainly be a mirror image of each other. Looking at your diagram, it appears the left hand arm (i.e. that going to parts 5 and 6) is longer than the other, and has a slight curve to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find you can use some of the parts from the LHD one to repair the motor of the RHD one, but probably not as they are usually sealed units these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T11:37:52.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4671" CreationDate="2012-11-05T11:59:04.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen people using autodata for general information about cars, like how to fix a timing belt for particular types of cars. But the version that was being used only had up to cars made in 2009 and before. I was thinking of purchasing this but with more up to date version... So is there an autodata version which has more up to date information (cars manufactured in 2011 or even 2012)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T17:09:19.487" Title="Diagnostic: Autodata newest version" Tags="|maintenance|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2012-11-05T11:59:10.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must admit, I've gone for a very low-tec solution to this in the past: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blu-Tack&lt;/a&gt;. Simple, not the most elegant, but effective :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T11:59:10.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4663" CreationDate="2012-11-05T15:05:10.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine type can definitely affect the price of a service job. Something like a timing belt service can be simple on one engine type and horrendous on another, due to things like accessibility of the components. A water pump could be directly accessible on one engine type, but require removal of the whole front bumper for access on another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T15:05:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-11-05T15:53:51.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have a slight leak in the fuel line, this will draw air over time and cause you to have to crank till all the air is purged. Then it starts fine. Difficult to locate those fine leaks. You may not see any drips because the fuel drains back into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2381" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T22:13:51.227" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T22:13:51.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4666" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:09:19.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google is your friend when you have questions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodatapubs.com/2012-AIS-DVD-p/12-dvdis.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autodatapubs.com/2012-AIS-DVD-p/12-dvdis.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, autodata 2012 has car models through 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T17:09:19.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4633" CreationDate="2012-11-05T18:35:14.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have the air inlet selection lever set to recirculate, do you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lEHTp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1940" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T18:35:14.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4675" CreationDate="2012-11-05T18:43:44.650" Score="7" ViewCount="7835" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a properly functioning auto, what's the quickest way to defog the windshield?  There are lots of air control options - hot vs. cold air, exterior vs. recirculated air - but which are the most effective (assuming the auto is functioning correctly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="14105" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T14:32:42.453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T21:18:09.623" Title="What's the quickest way to defog a windshield?" Tags="|hvac|windshield|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2012-11-05T20:34:34.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot air from the exterior with your a/c on is the quickest. Though in general having the a/c on is the most important piece, as it removes moisture from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T20:34:34.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2012-11-05T20:35:27.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will depend on your car, the outdoors humidity, the air temperature and the engine temperature. As an example, for me on a cold icy morning starting with a cold engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aircon on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan on low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use external air, not recirculator!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front windscreen demister (covers wiper rest area)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rev engine until at working temp &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then put fan on high &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in high humidity areas in the summer I would use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aircon on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan on high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use recirculator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T20:35:27.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4654" CreationDate="2012-11-06T07:53:40.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out there is a special tool that makes this job possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snap it around the line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the three crowns into the fitting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twist the tool so the three crowns push the clip out of the fitting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the line and the tool out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a lot of room up there. With three or four tries it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdXSA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T07:53:40.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4678" CreationDate="2012-11-06T15:00:25.523" Score="3" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think every car has re-circulator functionality in AC control panel. But I don't really use it, because it fogs up all of the windows. What is the purpose of the re-circulator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T18:44:31.210" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T14:52:34.257" Title="What is the purpose of AC re-circulator?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4677" CreationDate="2012-11-06T15:32:34.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It helps cool the air faster as it's taking the inside air (already partially cooled) and cooling it further rather than trying to cool the (often hotter) outside air.  Obviously there's only a specific range where it works well.  I've never noticed a fogging problem using it, but I only use it when it's of benefit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T15:32:34.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4677" CreationDate="2012-11-06T16:58:56.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars will give you the option to recirculate the air with or without AC, no matter the temperature. On hot days it makes sense to recirculate the cooler air like Brian touched on, and during the winter I sometimes like to recirculate the warmer air on really cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your windows are fogging up at all when your AC is on, you might have a problem with your AC though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T16:58:56.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-06T17:13:41.057" Score="5" ViewCount="3772" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '98 Camry (with the four-cylinder engine) usually starts, idles and drives like a dream. About a year ago I had the entire exhaust system replaced (including cat) due to corrosion. Since then it's had an intermittent problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, it's fine - but every once in a while (sometimes a few times a day, sometimes several weeks between problems) it all of a sudden runs really rough - it's very noticeable at highway speeds. When it's doing this if I stop at a light it idles at a very low speed, and comes close to dying - in fact, sometimes it does die. There's a definite sulfurous &quot;rotten egg&quot; odor from the tailpipe when this happens. It sometimes just stops having this problem, but it usually continues until I turn the engine off. When I turn it back on a few hours later, it's always OK again. This &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; happens when the engine is warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a &quot;too much fuel&quot; situation (the odor tells me this), but I'm not 100% on that. I've run some Techron through my car since this has been happening, but it still happens. My check engine light is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; on. I'd start by cleaning the mass airflow sensor except my car doesn't have one (no, really!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2384" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T20:41:05.557" Title="'98 Camry has occasional rough running / low speed idle problem" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|rough-idle|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2012-11-06T18:02:23.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should do is check for a blown fuse, it's very easy to blow a fuse when taking a battery out or installing a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an ABS sensor near each of your four wheels, if one has gone bad or is disconnected, that will cause your ABS light to stay on. It's a 1992, so the garage may have to forego using any diagnostic readers and test each ABS sensor, or worst case scenario replace all 4 if you want that ABS light to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T18:02:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-11-06T18:24:41.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that this started when you replaced the exhaust, the likely culprit here seems to be that one of the o2 sensors starts to fail when it gets hot and your engine starts to use too much fuel. My second guess was going to be your MAS, but as you say, you don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a car shop scan for and OBD II code and see if there is a code being thrown, the check engine light doesn't always come on even if there is a code to be read. See if you can check for the code when you witness the rough idle, when the engine is warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T18:24:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4686" CreationDate="2012-11-07T05:21:53.267" Score="2" ViewCount="5055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from India and I own a Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG4 2012 motorcycle. I travel on the highway while coming back home from the office at night. I am not satisfied with the brightness of my stock head lamp, so I am looking for an alternative. While surfing I came across a link that suggests HID's but I am not interested in them. I also came across a link that suggests 60/65W H4 xenon bulb but I don't know if I could use them in my bike. You can get some technical info about bike &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bajajauto.com/pulsar/Pulsar/p180_technical.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mypulsar.com/images/owner_manual/pulsar_180.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a technical guy so I ask that you please explain things more clearly, for example if you suggest a part or refer an existing part then please explain what those parts are and what they do. This will improve my knowledge and I would be able to perform the work myself at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1522" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T18:14:28.550" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T09:27:33.767" Title="Alternative to Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG4 stock headlamp" Tags="|motorcycle|replace|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4685" CreationDate="2012-11-07T07:39:30.583" Score="6" ViewCount="18356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Focus Mk2 and I wanted to install the mounting points for ISOFIX car seats and I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordonlineparts.co.uk/product/ISOfix_mounting_kit_Focus_-_1357238_F1357238-392&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;needed part&lt;/a&gt; but where can I find the installation instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1073" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:10:55.030" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T10:48:14.760" Title="Installing ISOFix mounting points in Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|focus|installation|seat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2012-11-07T10:43:28.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound fairly typical that these things come with no instructions. Your car manual should have information on isofix, but failing that, I found the following information on a post by Phil on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.focusowners.com/home/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&amp;amp;t=1001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.focusowners.com&lt;/a&gt; - which seems like a forum you would want to look at for Ford Focus specifics. Have a read of the full post over there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key info from the post is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a large flat screwdriver to unlock the hinge near the door. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the seat up and try to move it out of the way. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prise the rubber plugs out of the isofix mounting holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the metal bracket in with the loops facing forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit the seat hinge back in place and bang down to re-engage the latch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the seat back to it's normal position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(my note - you will easily be able to identify the isofix mounting holes once the seat is up. The rubber plugs come out with the use of a screwdriver)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:52:36.040" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:52:36.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4683" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:39:25.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must make sure before changing to a higher wattage headlamp bulb such as a 60/65W H4 that all the wiring and switches for the headlamp are able to carry the additional current that a higher wattage bulb will draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current headlamp is listed as a 35/35W, so the 60/65W will draw nearly twice as much current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what type of wiring and switches are provided on your bike, I would suggest getting a headlight relay kit before changing bulbs to the H4. The relay kit provides all new wiring to go straight from the motorcycle's battery to the headlight bulb, and relays, which are like remote controlled switches for the high-current headlight bulbs. Your existing wiring and handlebar hi-beam switch will now control the relays, which will turn on the low and high beam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get such a relay kit, you can definitely safely run the H4 bulb on your bike. The relay wiring kit provides a &quot;big pipe&quot; for the electricity to flow through to your headlights, ensuring that you get full voltage and therefore full brightness out of your headlight bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In actual fact, a headlight relay kit is a good upgrade for nearly any motorcycle. Cars almost always come with relays for headlights, motorcycles almost never do. Therefore you have a big potential for increased brightness even with the factory bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well-reputed relay kits are available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/wiring_kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eastern beaver&lt;/a&gt;, and the owner is a very helpful guy who can walk you through the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I am in no way affiliated with Eastern Beaver. Similar products may be available elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to leave your headlights alone and add &quot;accessory lights&quot; such as driving lights or fog lights. There are high-powered LED lights available that have very low power requirements, which make them great for smaller motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T15:39:25.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4689" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:56:12.353" Score="5" ViewCount="35391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always heard that tread wear affects the speed of your vehicle; i.e. you technically are going faster with new tires than you are with old, worn tires, for a given indicated speed by the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is true, are speedometers calibrated for new tires with full tread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you change the wheels on your vehicle for the next size up or down, wouldn't that have a major effect on the speedometer accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sources on the internet indicate that this is true, but there is little information on the degree of effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T07:28:00.403" Title="Does tire size and/or tread wear significantly affect speed and speedometer accuracy?" Tags="|tires|speedometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2012-11-07T18:37:28.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Size: YES.&#xA;Wear: Yes... but it's negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bigger the tire the slower the speed on the speedometer. The easy fix is to just use a GPS in addition to the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are monkeying with ratios the speedometer will be off by some percentage. So the faster you go the more the meter is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a smaller wheel on my motorcycle. Now the speedometer is off by 5 MPH at 35 MPH. So when I'm going 35 MPH the meter reads 40 MPH. If I put a bigger wheel on the reverse would happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastEditorUserId="2378" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T21:43:06.363" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T21:43:06.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2012-11-07T20:20:49.803" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can calculate the size of the effect from simple geometry. Tire wear reduces the diameter of the tire, which reduces the circumference of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New passenger car tires typically come with 10/32&quot; to 11/32&quot; of tread depth (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=194&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). Tires are considered fully worn-out when only 2/32&quot; of tread remains. So the tire has lost 8/32&quot;--9/32&quot; on the radius, or 1/2&quot;--9/16&quot; on the diameter over the life of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean in terms of a &quot;percent error?&quot; To find out, we need to know the starting circumference of the new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a primer on tire size notation. An example tire size would be 205/45-R17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First number: section width in mm. The tire is &lt;strong&gt;205&lt;/strong&gt; mm wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second number: aspect ratio. The sidewall height of the tire is &lt;strong&gt;0.45&lt;/strong&gt; times the section width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third number: rim size in inches. The tire fits a &lt;strong&gt;17&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire diameter is (roughly) given by the wheel rim size plus two times the sidewall height. In the case of our 205/45-R17 tire, the diameter is roughly 616mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(17 * 25.4) + 2 * (205 * 0.45) = 616.3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(must multiply the rim size by 25.4 to convert inches to millimeters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circumference of this new tire is therefore approximately 1936mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;616.3 * 3.14 = 1936&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we said we could lose 1/2&quot; in diameter over the life of the tire, so the worn diameter would be 604mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;616.3 - 1/2 * 25.4 = 603.6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means the worn circumference is 1896mm, or 2% less than the new tire circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So for this example, over the life of your tire, you'd pick up a 2% speedometer error.&lt;/strong&gt; Hardly worth worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing tire/wheel sizes can easily have a much larger effect, and care should be taken to try to keep the rolling diameter roughly the same as the recommended tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, my experience is that vehicle manufacturers usually calibrate their speedometers to read fast anyway (they might have legal problems if their speedometers read slow, &quot;I got this ticket for 60 with my cruise control set on 55&quot;), so you're probably not starting from &quot;the truth&quot; anyway. Tire wear would make the speedo read faster still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final disclaimer: all the diameter and circumference calculations are ROUGH, as the tire deforms, stretches and slips as it rolls down the road, but I think this is nonetheless a good estimate for the effect of tire wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T17:40:10.557" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T17:40:10.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4691" CreationDate="2012-11-07T23:43:44.773" Score="4" ViewCount="22009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tire that is very worn and just got a flat so I would like to get a tire sooner than later.  I called up 4 tire shops Big-O, Les Schwab, dicount tire etc. and none of them have the tires in stock and in addition the tires cost about 50$ more per tire than more common sizes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How large of an affect would switching to 205/60 R16 tires be?  I understand that the speedometer would be off by a small amount but are there any other affects such as ware on the engine, gas mileage etc. that would make it worth spending the extra money and waiting a couple weeks to get the 195/60 R16 tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2386" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T08:40:28.703" Title="I drive a 2008 Scion xD tire size 195/60 R16 can I switch to 205/60 R16 tires?" Tags="|tires|scion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2012-11-08T02:24:17.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tirerack.com has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;excellent page explaining how tires react on different width rims&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary version is that tires can fit on a variety of rims, and thus rims can accept a variety of tires. The best approach is to determine the rim's width and ensure that it is within the specification of the tire. There is also the concept of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plus_sizing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;plus sizing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; where a tire with a smaller aspect ratio is chosen to balance out the wider width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I encourage you to check the specifications (I haven't), I strongly suspect that a move from 195 to 205 will be just fine. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4050213&amp;amp;postcount=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;research of one poster&lt;/a&gt; on Scionlife.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here is a list of acceptable 16&quot; sizes for Scion XD, according to Discount Tire Co.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;205/55/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;205/60/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;215/55/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;225/50/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;225/55/16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think the 205/60/16 would look great, it would give the XD more of a mini-SUV appearance. The allowed rim width for that tire size is 5.5&quot;- 7.5&quot;, so you are good to go with the factory 16x6&quot;steel wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T02:24:17.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2012-11-08T02:28:49.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, after some further experience with tire changing, I've come to find that using a proper lubricant was the way to solve things. While bearing grease worked to seat the tire, there are some reasons that it isn't ideal. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000CIJUGK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ruglyde&lt;/a&gt; has since worked very well for me, and being a proper tire lubricant will dry, thus not leaving the same risk of spinning the rim that a regular grease could pose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T02:28:49.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2012-11-08T15:44:13.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tirerack.com shows an optional 16&quot; tire size of 205/55-16, but not 205/60-16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wider tire (205 refers to the width, in mm) will likely use a bit more fuel, though you may never notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 205/60-16 is larger in diameter than your tires, so the speedo would also be off (it would read a bit slow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this said, you should be able to get tires in the original size sooner than 2 weeks, and at a reasonable price unless you're in Alaska or Hawaii or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go with the original size, unless you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the wider tire for looks or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?filtering=true&amp;amp;width=195/&amp;amp;ratio=60&amp;amp;diameter=16&amp;amp;autoMake=Scion&amp;amp;autoYear=2008&amp;amp;autoModel=xD&amp;amp;autoModClar=&amp;amp;sortCode=44649&amp;amp;tireIndex=0&amp;amp;wtpackage=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a list of options from Tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt;. They will deliver to an installer near you. I've used this service, and would use it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I am in no way affiliated with TireRack, similar offers may be available from other retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:44:13.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2012-11-08T16:23:28.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;205/60R16 has a ~5% larger diameter than your 195/60R16. Assuming that they fit in your wheel arches, here are the effects you should be looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your speedo will be off. You'd be driving 5% more than what it reads. So your actual speed would be more like 53mph when your speedo reads 50mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your gas milage should decrease a bit due to more friction caused by the wider tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your acceleration would be slightly worse due to the larger diameter of the tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:23:28.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-11-08T16:35:59.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine fuel going bad in only 4 months. My summer cars (granted, none diesel) regularly spend 6 months in winter with a full tank (to prevent tank corrosion) and come back alive in april with the same tank of fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help to check the engine compression. Diesel engines don't have spark plugs and ignite fuel with the help of very high compression. An old diesel engine having cold start problems usually has to do with engine compression issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as jmort said, first make sure that the fuel filters are not clogged up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:35:59.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2012-11-09T14:09:57.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to find any good documentation online for the speaker sizes of a VW Polo.  Your best bet is to do it the old fashioned way - take out the speakers and measure them.  If you're going to replace the speakers then you have to take them out eventually anyways. There is a good article on eHow for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4883570_measure-car-speakers-replacement.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;measuring car speakers&lt;/a&gt; for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T14:09:57.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4627" CreationDate="2012-11-09T14:45:40.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suggestion I would have is to allow your car to warm up before driving. Modern cars are eons better at this, but nothing short of a wreck is harder on a car than being driven when the engine's oil isn't up to temperature (and bearing clearances are off, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long is up for debate. I believe the general consensus is at least a couple minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, avoiding high RPMs and loads until the temperature gauge reads normal is also recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T14:45:40.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-11-09T22:34:06.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the fuel idea; cheap and easy fix, but also think about the fuel pump/return. If your pump is going bad you'll have low pressure which causes a hard start. Also if the fuel is allowed to flow back into the tank you'll have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T22:34:06.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4289" CreationDate="2012-11-10T14:48:06.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've learned of two possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically the valves at the exhaust side can where out and&#xA;compression can &quot;leak&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also there can be a break in the cylinder where the compression escapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these possible in your case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2345" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T14:48:06.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-10T20:04:42.107" Score="0" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ahve a 2011 ford focus and trying to change my back rear tires which are low profile sport tires on right now to my winter tires. and the sport tires are not coming off on the back. help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2391" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T23:10:01.397" Title="2011 ford focus ses changing tires" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4700" CreationDate="2012-11-10T22:19:15.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is I hope you are changing all four tires, not just the rears. The most common cause is corrosion between the wheel and the hub. It is more of an issue when alloy wheels are mounted to steel hubs. This sets up a condition called galvanic corrosion.Apply a liberal dose of penatrating oil (PB Blaster is my personal favorite) If you loosen the lug nuts several turns and rock the car forward and backwards. Something in the area of 3-4 mph forward then a quick stab on the brakes, 3-4 mph backwards then a quick stab of the brakes. The idea is to use the enertia of the car to break the wheel loose. Avoid usung a mallet on the wheel as you could damage the wheel or the tire. Once the wheel gets loose apply some Never-Seize to the hub and the inside of the wheel. This will prevent them from locking together next year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T22:19:15.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5136" CreationDate="2012-11-11T17:22:59.507" Score="1" ViewCount="2379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something squeaks when I start the engine after the car was sitting in garage for the night. Squeaking goes away after 2-3 minutes. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMjzkGTm09U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car has following replaced a month ago: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004SEXKE2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;harmonic balancer&lt;/a&gt; (crankshaft) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both power steering and serpentine belts (don't know brand, bought @Autozone). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power steering pump was replaced 1 year ago with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/A1_Cardone/Power_Steering_Pump/A1215268.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A1 Cardone brand&lt;/a&gt;, power steering fluid reservour is full, no leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/615/cold-start-squeaking-noise-in-engine&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2669/squeaking-noise-when-cold-start-suspect-something-wrong-with-belts-also-engine&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; posts. They indicate a belt tension/worn out problems. I do not believe that the tension is a problem here, the belts seem to sit pretty tight, and they are new, as I already mentioned. Maybe I need to spray them with some sort of belt conditioner or something?..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the replaced parts, what else is likely to cause the squeaks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T03:58:02.473" Title="Honda Odyssey 2003 makes squeaking noises on cold start" Tags="|engine|honda|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4833" CreationDate="2012-11-12T02:56:27.163" Score="13" ViewCount="22355" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you get to the battery on a 2012 Honda Odyssey, given that it is blocked by some type of intake tube**?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Edit: this used to say &lt;em&gt;exhaust&lt;/em&gt; but I changed it to &lt;em&gt;intake tube&lt;/em&gt;, given the answers, below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a new 2012 Honda Odyssey and our old car battery just died. So I'm trying to give it a jump but the Odyssey's battery is blocked by something that I can't remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to remove these fastener/screw things (at the bottom of the picture below)? I've tried turning them as well as prying them with a butter knife. The red terminal is accessible but the black one is completely blocked by this thing.  I need to get to both to jump my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Elea6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battery blocked by something I cannot get off&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2395" LastEditorUserId="2395" LastEditDate="2012-12-01T23:00:05.660" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T14:47:30.673" Title="How do you remove or even get to the car battery on a 2012 Honda Odyssey?" Tags="|electrical|honda|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4709" CreationDate="2012-11-12T03:44:01.497" Score="3" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new 110 cc Honda motorcycle. It's waay underpowered, so I spend a lot of time at wide open throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being brand new, this seems likely to cause damage. The manual recommends not to push it for the first 500 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way around this? Can I let it idle for a long time, do I have to bite the bullet and ride slooow, or is there no real cause for concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will pushing it now make it even slower later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:22:11.090" Title="breaking in (running in) a very small engine" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4708" CreationDate="2012-11-12T06:27:45.117" Score="4" ViewCount="45365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Chevy S10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive my truck around at night I notice that occasionally my headlights turn off for about 3 seconds and then come back on by themselves. There doesn't seem to be any kind of consistency to it. It does it when I'm driving, when I'm sitting, even when the engine is turned off. It made a clicking sound a couple of times too if I remember rightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight I drove again and it got so bad that they wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds and since I've been wiggling the wires behind the headlight switch they haven't yet come back. I don't know for sure if wiggling had any effect or not though or if it was coincidental (Wiggling didn't cause any flickering). When I wiggled the wire connector thingy that leads into the headlights switch I noticed that it was hot which didn't seem right to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drove home I tried to turn them off then on again until it worked, but I don't know if it came back (when it did come back) because of that. (I mention that as a possible explanation for the hot connector.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The daytime running lamps stay on (or at least I think they are the DRL's, (they're yellow)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other details that could be related although may be entirely unrelated are that both the fog lights and the dashboard lights that light up the meters haven't ever worked since I bought the thing a couple months ago (e-brake, check engine etc lights still work though). The reason I mention it is because both of these are also switches next to the headlight switch and connect in the same general area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that I know very little about vehicles I wiggled some random wires near the headlights themselves and near the battery and it had no effect. I'm assuming it's something in the wiring in the cab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T00:14:33.400" Title="Headlights turning off randomly" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|headlight|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4707" CreationDate="2012-11-12T11:33:59.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlight wiring is protected from being overheated (a short,overcurrent) by a circuit breaker. It operates like a circuit breaker in your house except it has an auto reset feature. The clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting. With your admitted limited knowledge this is a job for a pro. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T11:33:59.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2012-11-12T12:47:12.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really need to follow what the manual says if you want to have any hopes of using a warranty...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, air cooled engines are usually broken in by running at WOT...  Racing motorcycles are usually broken in with WOT runs on a dyno.  Small aircraft engine break-in procedures recommend sustained MINIMUM of 75% power (and 85% often recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, YMMV...  I personally follow the manual even if I don't think it's the best way, simply because I wouldn't want to be accused of voiding the warranty by improper usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T12:47:12.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4711" CreationDate="2012-11-12T17:50:27.980" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend is looking for a replacement steel wheel for a 2012 Honda Fit, as one of hers is currently bent. I think they are 15&quot; rims, but I was hoping to find the best option on where to purchase a replacement steel rim. Some local Firestone shop was about to charge her $180 for a new rim, and to move the tire onto the new rim. It was my impression that, that was ridiculously high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T10:14:36.337" Title="Replacing a steel wheel" Tags="|honda|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4710" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:50:06.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds about right for a new factory steel wheel.  You could also try TireRack.com to see if they have any, or some local junkyards for used.  Odds are you're going to have a hard time though, not a lot of junked Fits laying around to get wheels from.  Or, you can use it as an excuse to upgrade to some nice new wheels.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T19:50:06.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4720" CreationDate="2012-11-13T01:29:49.363" Score="2" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a dune buggy as displayed in the photo below. Note the position of the radiator located above the seats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wanting to do is install some clear perspex in the window area but what I am concerned about is the potential that such an installation will disrupt the airflow received by the radiator and cause overheating problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that no-one will probably be able to give a concrete answer but could anyone please be kind enough to comment, having a look at the design below will a clear perspex window at the front of this vehicle cause potential problems with the radiator and overheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0M2ZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dune buggy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T15:52:19.833" Title="How to know if a radiator is getting sufficient airflow" Tags="|radiator|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-13T06:34:33.720" Score="10" ViewCount="290738" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key in to start all the lights on the dashboard go out completely and when I turn it back to the off position the dash lights back up. What could the problem be if the battery is okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2397" LastEditorUserId="33022" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:54:25.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T20:27:49.210" Title="The battery is fine but my car will not start not even a clicking sound" Tags="|starting|car|power|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2012-11-13T08:10:33.990" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things to check in order of likelihood- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the battery connections are tight.  A loose connection may prevent your car from starting, even when the lights, radio, etc., may seem to be working fine.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery may not be fine. Lights are not high load,so having the lights work is not an indicator of how healthy your battery is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter motor. Some starter motors stick as the fail, so occasionally a good whack with a piece of wood is required (don't try this if you aren't sure which bit of metal is your starter motor, you might break something)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses. Easy to check all your fuses in the fuse box with a multimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring. If all else checks out, you may need to carry out a full check on your wiring to see where the failure is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:38:02.493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:38:02.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4710" CreationDate="2012-11-13T10:14:36.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly off-topic, did you considered repairing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much deformation you have on the rim, you could restore it in a wheel shop. They could hammer it or use a special equipment for reshaping too. Costs in my area start at about 20% of new rims cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T10:14:36.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4712" CreationDate="2012-11-13T11:51:38.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a wind tunnel the only way to tell is by monitoring the temperature gauge. Air flow/cooling capacity can get complex as there are many variables. Thing to consider are engine size, radiator capacity/effiency, fan size and direction of airflow all of which are influenced by each other and air flow over and around the vehicle at different speeds. If you look at cars from the 50's or 60's they had large grill openings and large radiators to cool the engines. In comparison modern cars have very small grill openings and very efficient radiators so visually it is tough to form an opinion for your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T11:51:38.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2012-11-13T13:53:18.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the battery load tested. I've had several batteries go dead in the same manner: dash lights working just find until you turn the key and it all dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T13:53:18.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2012-11-13T14:22:11.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the rings seating properly the best thing you can do is let it warm up completely under 50% throttle with little or no load, run the engine through variable load and up and down through the throttle range, then let it cool completely. Repeat this cycle several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:22:11.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-13T15:17:21.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1991" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can be rather impatient. As such, I occasionally pull the key out of the ignition a little &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; fast (to which this post will explain the &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt;). When this happens, there is a weird and ever-so-faint noise which sounds like a vibration. I used to think it was outside noise, but then I noticed that, if I reinsert the key and turn until the electrics come on (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the engine - apologies for the advanced technical language), it'll stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this is? Is there a fault with my car or am I just being too impatient and not giving the car enough time to switch everything off? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: Volkswagen Golf TDi (mk5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2400" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T00:32:12.640" Title="Quickly pull key out - weird noise (Golf)" Tags="|noise|ignition|key|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4712" CreationDate="2012-11-13T15:52:19.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This window will almost certainly reduce the effectiveness of the radiator somewhat. The real question is whether that ends up being significant for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have suggested monitoring the temperature gauge--if the temp rises above the normal range, you've created a real problem. However, just because the gauge doesn't rise above normal doesn't mean you haven't created a problem (albeit a less severe one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your buggy has an electronic, thermostatically controlled fan, this fan will kick on whenever there's not enough natural airflow to cool the radiator. Generally this should only happen when moving slowly on a hot day. By installing this windscreen, you may find that your fan comes on more frequently, and runs for longer; or worse yet, runs constantly. &#xA;This would represent an extra load on your buggy's electrical system, and may lead to early fan failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know is to give it a shot with the windscreen. Monitor your temp gauge, but also monitor the operation of the radiator fan, if you have one. It may help to wire up a temporary indicator light that goes on when the fan runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need the windscreen, and you end up with cooling issues, maybe you can add some ducting to bring more air to the radiator, which may help offset the loss of airflow from the windscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T15:52:19.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-13T21:22:14.153" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I have a bit of a conundrum. I'm trying to buy a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already put a deposit on one for $500 (car 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found another, which is in a color I prefer, for around the same price. It also has 30,000 miles less (car 2). I bargained him down $200 to make up for my $500 loss of deposit on the other one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, car 1 has a two year warranty on all major components (engine, transmission, suspension), whereas car 2 only has a warranty for up to 6 months, and I'd have to purchase it separately (for about $200-300). If I want to have car 1 be the color I would like it to be, I'd need to paint it/have it painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do in this situation, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to keep this car for 3-4 years. Possibly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars are around the same price. Total, with loss of deposit for car 2 is $7300, total for car 1 is $7100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get my deposit back on from car 1 (presuming I went with car 2), it would be $6800. Probability of that seems low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are 2005 Ford Mustangs, one with 150k miles and the other with 120k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2404" LastEditorUserId="2404" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T00:01:22.347" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:14:43.770" Title="Greater warranty or lower miles?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2012-11-14T00:25:55.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some cars the fan for the heat, defrost, a/c does not have an &quot;off&quot; setting. The fan runs on low speed whenever the car is on. It is possible that the ignition switch is worn allowing the key to be removed with a set of contacts still partially engaged. If you turn the key to the &quot;on&quot; position turn the blower motor on high. Find a spot under the dash where the fan sounds the loudest. Try to replicate the conditions that cause the vibration and see if the vibration comes from the same area.&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T00:25:55.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2012-11-14T04:22:42.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS diagnostic port is under the hood, in the same assembly as the OBD port. I have never been able to get information from it, however. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/BrakesABS.htm#ABSDiagnosticCodeRetrieval&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The best instructions I've been able to find&lt;/a&gt; did not work when I tried them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a question about this previously, but so far it does not have an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/601/reading-abs-diagnostic-codes-on-a-volvo-940&quot;&gt;Reading ABS diagnostic codes on a Volvo 940&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T04:22:42.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4721" CreationDate="2012-11-14T10:51:24.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at an older car, with reasonably high mileage (which both of these are), the value of a warranty can be high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you should look at it is to ask yourself whether you would expect to spend over $200 on major components in the next 2 years (remember, as they are major components, a single failure is likely to go over this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so go with the better warranty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T10:51:24.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4721" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:14:43.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with the car that's the color I prefer.  A decent paint job costs more than replacing an engine/transmission...  Last time I did a new engine in my car it was $4500.  Wife's new transmission was $3400.  I just recently got paint quotes and they ran from $6000-8000...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:14:43.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-14T16:12:57.940" Score="2" ViewCount="7582" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Ford Escape (2005 V6) with approximately 125k on it. I have done most of the maintenance on it myself since we bought it at 90k and it has overall been a great vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The past two winters, I've noticed it's hard to start when it's cold (&amp;lt;40 degrees). Hard start meaning: Cranks for several seconds (3-5), and it seems 'labored' while cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run Valvoline 5w20 Synthetic in the motor, and it has a new battery (installed this past summer) which floats at 12.5 volts. Doesn't smoke, and I replaced spark plugs with NGK's at the same time as the battery..and also cleaned the TB. No engine lights, but admittedly have not scanned for codes which don't trip CE light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with the starter motors themselves...do they &quot;get weak&quot; over time and worse in the cold? I can't think of anything else that would be affected by colder weather. In warm weather it starts immediately, and runs well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I am going to start with a scan this weekend, and barring that turning up anything definitive, I will test/replace the coolant temp sensor, and see if i can test the ignition coils (it's coil on plug)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastEditorUserId="2403" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T13:42:34.423" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T13:42:34.423" Title="Hard Start in cold weather" Tags="|engine|ford|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4289" CreationDate="2012-11-14T20:27:54.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil on the spark plug is likely either because the piston rings are not sealing or the valve guides are leaking oil. Both could also be related to low compression. You could either have ring seal problems or a valve that is not seating properly. Valve seat problems could be due to physical damage or carbon build-up coming loose. Guess at what is most likely depends on what was done when the engine was last worked on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T20:27:54.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2012-11-14T20:53:20.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure in the future that where you store your smart key is more then 15 ft. away from the car. If it is within 15 ft. it will drain the battery or deactivate the smart key fuction if the car is left for longer then a week. Under the steering wheel there are 2 red buttons. The left one is for the smart key system right one for tire presure monitoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2410" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T11:00:09.403" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T11:00:09.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4726" CreationDate="2012-11-15T00:41:14.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that auto parts stores generally let you borrow a scanner for free (maybe you have to leave your ID as collateral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I think could be wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery maybe new, but that doesn't mean it has enough muscle to crank that motor. If it's cold cranking amps are high enough it should be fine, but best to measure voltage during cranking to find out. You can also find a way to heat it, then crank while the battery is warm. Try leaving it somewhere warm in the house then bringing it out to start the car before it cools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also is your fuel going bad? Sometimes a bit of a long shot, but cheap none the less and usually worse come winter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: After rereading, forget bad fuel. The labored cranking is indicative of something wrong between your battery and the mechanics of the engine turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:41:14.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2012-11-15T01:02:37.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this question has been answered, but keep in mind that any carbureted engine can bog down under throttle and cause a lack of acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can be backed off and regain acceleration, then I'd suggest carb tuning. If the engine revs, but no acceleration then it's a slipping clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T01:02:37.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2012-11-15T07:20:26.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure all the connections are clean.  Test the battery to ensure it really has 12volts.  Use a voltmeter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a battery that worked fine, but couldn't start the car because the connections needed cleaning.  Even if there isn't corrosion it could be an issue. Once I had those add-on connectors that go on the end of the battery cable get so rusted it stopped the connection from working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T07:20:26.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2693" CreationDate="2012-11-15T14:26:21.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually what happens is that the spring falls out.  I've had this happen in both my cars.  I've been able to open them by sticking my keys in the top opening and popping the open lever real quick.  Then, retrive keys from ground and fill up car (until a new spring can be purchased and installed).  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that's all it is, but it's certainly possible that more damage was done during the theft attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T14:26:21.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2109" CreationDate="2012-11-15T15:10:52.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful when using high PSI to set beads. Generally the high pressure recommended for this is instantaneous and not sustained. Having the bead seat under extreme high pressure can actually damage the rim due to the forces involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason Windex is generally recommended is that it is water soluble. This means that it will eventually dissipate. If you use a heavy grease it can stay on the bead and cause the tire to spin under acceleration, which you already identified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to do this process on more tires I would recommend getting a seating tool which allows you to get rapid pressure changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T15:10:52.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2012-11-15T18:53:16.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learn from my mistake!! I attempted to use four different chisels to 'counter rotate' the stuck nut. &lt;strong&gt;NEVER do this&lt;/strong&gt;. What happens is that the chisel force drives the annular ring of the lower portion of the nut into the well where the curved face normally sits. You get the rest of the nut finaly chisseled off and you are STUCK with the measley shxxty annular ring driven and wedged into the small well. Then you have to drill and drill with, like a 5/32 drill, a whole bunch of holes and finally drive out pieces. You can drive it around the block with all nuts very loose and this shxxty annular ring is wedged way in there. Try all the other methods, heat it up, smaller socket driven on and turned, welded 2nd nut to bad nut and removing them together, whatever, BUT don't get out your chissels!!!!! You will blow nearly a day using the chisel method and have to buy a new stud and perhaps a rim as well !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2413" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T18:53:16.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5147" CreationDate="2012-11-15T20:44:03.897" Score="8" ViewCount="4109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 92 Civic has had low power (need to use at least one gear lower than usual to get the same power) and has been getting bad gas mileage (15-25mpg vs 32-42 mpg usual) since I replaced the head gasket. Exhaust also smells bad. Engine is otherwise running very smooth and quiet, though. I'm looking for some help diagnosing what the source of the problem might be. Here's some additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Timing belt slipped and might be off by 1-2 notches, but seemed to be right when I lined it back up (I aligned the UP marking on the cam sprocket with TDC as measured by sticking a rod down through the #1 spark plug hole).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxygen sensor was shot (completely covered in soot and outputting -0.1v instead of 0.1v-0.9v) but has been replaced. That improved the situation somewhat, but not fully. I measured the voltage from the new O2 sensor and it's never getting above 0.1v. Could this result from incomplete combustion (oxygen left after combustion) and if so, what might the cause be?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter was also replaced and fuel delivery system seems to be fine, but I don't know how to measure fuel pressure or pressure in the intake system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:23:19.223" Title="Low power, bad gas mileage, smelly exhaust after engine work" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|fuel-consumption|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4738" CreationDate="2012-11-16T03:24:54.683" Score="3" ViewCount="27634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG4, it has a &lt;strong&gt;35 watt HS1 Helonix&lt;/strong&gt; headlamp bulb. I want to upgrade the stock headlight to make it brighter, so I found &lt;strong&gt;H4 Xenon bulb 60/65 watt&lt;/strong&gt;. I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4683/alternative-to-bajaj-pulsar-180-ug4-stock-headlamp&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; question and got &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4686/1522&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; answer from mac. He says I should go for a relay as I want to use a more powerful bulb, but I am not a mechanic so I don't know which relay to use and how to wire it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please help me in finding correct relay for my bike and how to wire it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1522" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:22:50.160" Title="Which relay to use for bike headlight" Tags="|motorcycle|headlight|relay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2012-11-16T04:33:12.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not comfortable with this sort of thing you need to find someone who is. You could burn up your whole electrical system if you wire in a relay and headlight poorly. If I were in the same room as you I could walk you through it, but you have to understand that this is just a question answer site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T04:33:12.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2012-11-16T09:54:42.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question raises more issues than you probably thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:AutomotiveRelay.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an article, which looks accurate at a skim, that describes how relays work, starting with general information and narrowing down on automotive relays specifically (including the standard pinout of 30, 85, 86, and 87).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you get that far, you need to consider the output of your generator (I'm guessing your bike has a generator...but it could have an alternator). Cheaper bikes often have undersized generators, and if your energy requirement exceeds your charging capacity, your battery will run flat even while you ride. On a 12 volt system, the stock bulb pulls approximately 3 Amps (35 Watt / 12 Volts). The replacement will pull around 5-5.5 Amps depending on whether you end up using the low or high beam of the H4 bulb (that's an important difference between the bulbs you mention, and I'm sure you saw this already...the H4 has 3 prongs, a common ground in the middle flanked by the positive leads of the high and low beam filaments). If the only powered accessories on the bike are the lights, this could actually be significant (bikes with provisions for other accessories usually have some headroom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the wiring going to the headlamps. Obviously, go directly from the battery. Make sure you use a thick-enough wire to prevent excessive voltage drop, which will make the light appear dimmer than it should be and overheat the wire. At the amperage of a single 60 Watt bulb, and the distance involved on a motorbike, 18 gauge (American Wire Gauge, or AWG) is the minimum recommended, but I would suggest 16 or even 14 (no such thing as too much wire, so long as the weight penalty is minimal). Make sure you make your connectors weather proof -- that means sealing any solder or crimp joints with marine-grade shrink tubing (which includes adhesive), unless you actually manage to get your hands on a proper, multi-hundred-dollar crimping tool, in which case just crimp and ride. Otherwise your connectors will eventually corrode and fail, and bikes get wet, so this will happen much sooner than you imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, don't expect miracles. Motorcycle lights usually don't work well, but not because they are underpowered -- because the optics don't work well (reflector and lens). In your case, the 35 Watt bulb is also underpowered...but I'm sure the optics are pretty bad as well. I've been riding bikes for about 25 years, and so far I've owned only one with headlights that were good enough to ride with at night with the same level of visibility as a car. Ironically, that was a relatively inexpensive Kawasaki KLR650 (relatively inexpensive by global standards...very cheap by U.S./Canadian standards). I've had to put auxiliary lights on much more expensive and exotic bikes. All those bikes ran 55 or 60 Watt bulbs, but the inefficient reflectors and/or lenses diffused the light excessively, rendering the headlights effectively dim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, have fun with the project, and ride safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2415" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T12:22:50.160" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:22:50.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2012-11-16T15:53:07.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to build the relay setup yourself instead of using a commercially produced motorcycle headlight relay kit, you'll need two automotive relays, commonly called &quot;Bosch relays&quot;. They should have a rating of at least 10A, which they nearly all do (generally you find them at least 20A). You need one relay for the low-beam, and one relay for the high-beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll run power wires of 14 or 16 GA with a 15A fuse from the battery to the front of the bike, maybe in the headlamp housing--wherever you can hide the relays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new +12V wire (with a fuse!) goes to pin 30 on each of the relays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new ground wire goes to the ground pin on each of the headlight bulbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the old +12V wire that went to your existing low-beam bulb, and wire it to pin 85 of one of your relays, this is now your low-beam relay.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the old ground wire that went to your existing low-beam bulb, and wire it to pin 86 on your low-beam relay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the old +12V wire that went to your existing hi-beam bulb, and wire it to pin 85 of the other relay, this is now your hi-beam relay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the old ground wire that went to your existing hi-beam bulb, and wire it to pin 86 on your hi-beam relay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect pin 87 on your low-beam relay to the +12V low-beam terminal of your new H4 bulb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect pin 87 on your hi-beam relay to the +12V hi-beam terminal of your new H4 bulb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a super-complicated job, but can be made simpler by purchasing a pre-made kit, which will have the H4 bulb socket, relays, wiring, fuse holder, and instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what you're doing is connecting pins 85 and 86 of the relay to where your old bulbs used to be. Now your handlebar switch turns on the relays instead of the old bulbs. The relays, in turn, turn on the new, higher powered bulb, which is connected straight to the battery with new, larger wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T16:03:25.100" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T16:03:25.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="456" CreationDate="2012-11-16T17:33:24.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this may well be a vent/overflow line to the fuel tank. How full is (was) your tank at the time? My K75 (fuel injected, unlike yours) has this arrangement. If this is in fact the case, the bike was likely performing as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T17:33:24.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4746" CreationDate="2012-11-17T10:08:02.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Daihatsu Mira car with 650cc, it has a Turbo Engine with an automatic gearbox. I want to go to a hill station but not sure that this car can drive there easily or not. I want to go to a point where cars with 800cc can easily go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car is front wheel drive but in rear wheels I can see a differential which is found in rear wheel drive cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this car ok for driving to Hill Stations?&#xA;Here is the car specs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tradecarview.com/specifications/daihatsu/mira_custom/rs_cvt_0.66/37481/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tradecarview.com/specifications/daihatsu/mira_custom/rs_cvt_0.66/37481/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2416" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T13:47:30.230" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T13:47:30.230" Title="how to find if a car can drive on hills easily or not?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-17T11:46:10.593" Score="13" ViewCount="151246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to release the hand brake while I'm driving at around 4 to 5km. What will happen to my rear brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2417" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T21:57:38.140" Title="I forgot to release the hand brake while I'm driving at around 4 to 5 km. what will happen to my rear brakes?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-17T12:04:02.257" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 Alfa Romeo 146ti has a Pontus PAC-7002(B) stereo, probably aftermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a removable MP3 player and a built-in CD player. The whole interface seems to be locked, possibly as part of a security feature. The volume control works but none of the buttons operate. I put a CD in which plays automatically but I can't skip tracks or switch to the radio or MP3 player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any information on the Internet other than that Pontus was part of Hyundai Autonet. I didn't receive the manual for the stereo with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used this stereo or got a manual for it? Any tips on how I might reset it? I've tried unplugging the power harness for a while to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:26:37.470" Title="Pontus PAC-7002(B) reset" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4742" CreationDate="2012-11-17T13:41:19.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this was a one time occurance the damage should be minimal. If the brake shoes were worn or damaged the lining material may have cracked from overheating. This is rare if they were in good shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage done will depend on the type of parking brake brake along with the extent of wear before the incident. The older design of parking brake used the service brake shoes (the one that normally stop the car) as the parking brake, they are activated by a cable system instead of the normal brake hydraulics system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically if the brake shoes were in good shape a manual readjustment of the shoes will return everything to normal. The manual adjustment consists of turning an adjusting screw inside the brake drum. Most vehicles have an access hole so this can be done without removing the drum. If your car has rear disc brakes you may have a small set of brake shoes behind the rotor that act as the parking brake. If these shoes are worn they will have no effect on normal braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to drum style brakes these are adjustable, however the adjustment involves removing the caliper and rotor to get at the adjuster. On some Subarus and Saabs the parking brake is part of the front brake caliper, it uses the normal brake pad as a parking brake. The pad is moved mechanically via a cable. In this type no readjustment is needed, as the pads self adjust with every use.              &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T20:20:14.647" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T20:20:14.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4741" CreationDate="2012-11-17T16:18:39.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car will be able to go up and down reasonably steep hills, but it is not a powerful car, and it is definitely not an off road car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650cc and 800cc engines are considered pretty small, but on hill climb vehicles the gearing can give you a lot of torque which will help you climb steep slopes. This car has gearing set up for city driving, so it isn't going to be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you want to be able to reach places where cars with 800cc engines can get to - well, you will be able to take this to most places where a city car of 800cc could get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T16:18:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4764" CreationDate="2012-11-17T16:44:43.813" Score="2" ViewCount="19026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bike with 35 watt HS1 bulb and I want to upgrade brightness of headlight so I decided to put H4 60/65 watt xenon bulb. An expert on this forum suggested me to use relays as the new bulb requires more power. I did some google to understand relays and how to wire new headlight with relays, but the confusion is that the links and videos for relay wiring that I found online was for cars and car has two head lights so they have used two SPDT(Bosch) relay for that but for my bike I need only one bulb so I guess single 30 AMP SPDT relay would be enough but I am confused what should be the circuit diagram for single SPDT relay to control headlight HI-LO beam. I know instead of making setup from scratch by myself many of you would suggest me to go for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eastern Beaver H4 kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; but the problem is that I am in India and I dont have any paypal account to pay for kit and even not sure whether this kit would be economical for me or not thats why I decided to make this setup by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 30amp SPDT relay, 30amp fuse holder and H4 xenon bulb and I need help of the experts on this forum to please guide me on how wire new headlight. A simple circuit diagram would be enough like this one at earlycuda.org:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnvpf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1522" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T20:25:45.447" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T11:39:56.693" Title="motorcycle headlight with single SPDT relay" Tags="|motorcycle|headlight|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4750" CreationDate="2012-11-17T19:09:18.633" Score="13" ViewCount="6622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into how to change out my spark plugs on my 4 cylinder 2005 Mazda 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I know to do is: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;1: Open each cylinder. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;2: Use a spark plug socket (with the rubber insert) to remove the old spark plug in each cylinder. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;3: Insert new spark plug in each cylinder and tighten it (don't over-torque). &lt;br&gt;&#xA;4: Close the cylinder back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the fact that I am not that experienced in working on cars, I feel like this is too simple. Is there anything I'm missing? Safety precautions? Anything that I need to put on the spark plugs before putting the new ones in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T02:58:43.670" Title="How to properly change out spark plugs?" Tags="|engine|mazda|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2012-11-17T20:24:04.950" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They really are that simple - as long as you torque them correctly, there isn't a lot that can go wrong. They are designed to be as straightforward as possible - they don't require calibration, measurement etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the connector is securely on the top of the spark plug, and make sure you don't get oil or grease on the contacts. And do them one at a time to make sure you connect the correct cable back up to the correct plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may even want to quickly test the engine running after you have changed each spark plug - this way, if you haven't tightened one up properly, you will be able to hear it straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T20:24:04.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2012-11-18T10:41:22.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://motorqa.com/question/8/whats-the-best-way-to-adjust-gap-in-spark-plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; for adjusting the gap for spark plugs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Clean the spark plugs thoroughly, and don't forget the gauge feeler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To find the right gauge, look for a spec sheet for your automobile in&#xA;  the owner's manual. Insert the feeler gauge between the electrodes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If&#xA;  it's to narrow, you won't get it in. Try to bend the electrodes a&#xA;  little. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When the feeler gauge is between the electrodes, hit the top&#xA;  electrode gently or push it against a hard surface. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Try to pull out&#xA;  and insert the gauge again..It should touch to electrodes, but not&#xA;  give any resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T01:42:42.303" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T01:42:42.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4761" CreationDate="2012-11-18T11:05:59.460" Score="5" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a couple spark plugs that needs adjusting. Whats the best practise for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this valid? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://motorqa.com/question/8/whats-the-best-way-to-adjust-gap-in-spark-plugs&quot;&gt;http://motorqa.com/question/8/whats-the-best-way-to-adjust-gap-in-spark-plugs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T14:53:48.303" Title="How can I adjust gaps to spark plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4755" CreationDate="2012-11-18T12:15:35.657" Score="3" ViewCount="39060" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Daihatsu Mira does not have any manual, Its an automatic car with TurboEngine and Gear with PRNDSB. What does all these means? My car is four wheel drive as I can see rear differential in it. If its a four wheel on which position of Gear I can activate the four wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2416" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T12:52:09.890" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T00:44:14.747" Title="What does PRNDSB means?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|turbocharger|4wd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2012-11-18T12:51:58.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The letters are standard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sport (or possibly Snow - thanks @Brian)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking (usually for going down hills)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these have anything to do with 4WD or 2WD selection. If your Daihatsu is the 4WD version, it is permanently 4WD - there is no selector on that spec of car. It was a specific Japanese edition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have stated previously that you thought your car was a 2WD spec. I would read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daihatsu_Mira&quot;&gt;online specs&lt;/a&gt; to find out exactly which model you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T16:22:03.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T16:22:03.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-18T20:08:37.967" Score="2" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery would go dead after sitting for a day. I checked battery and found a bad cell with a hydrometer. Replaced the battery and the problem remained. I hooked my meter between the positive post and the cable. It showed 6 amps, and I pulled all fuses in the kick panel, one at a time - none of these stopped the draw. I unhooked the rear door and glass sensor, to no avail. I unhooked the black connector to the controller on the firewall, on the passenger side, and the draw stopped. I ohmed all pins in the connector and found nothing. I plugged it back in and the draw remained gone for a few days. Checked again and it was drawing 4 amps. I unhooked the alternator and it was still drawing 4 amps. I have added a negative disconnect temporarily, until iI find the problem. I tried unhooking the black connector for the controller again, but this time it did not stop the draw. Anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2422" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T13:58:10.877" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T03:50:12.807" Title="98 Grand Cherokee drains battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-19T06:22:49.537" Score="1" ViewCount="2604" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a routine tune-up, my Grand Cherokee would stall constantly at low idle and the acceleration would quit if I let up on the gas pedal right around 50mph.  I had to wait til it dropped below 40mph, then give the gas a good hit.  I'd feel a clunk and then a sudden forward burst of speed and it would run normally again until I let up on the gas pedal between 40 and 50. Also, the gas mileage has plummeted from 17-18 to about 10mpg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tune-up replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, pcv, thermostat and fuel filter.  We replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) and that didn't help.  A friend zip tied the throttle cable, creating a bump stop, and that fixed the stalling idle problems but mileage and acceleration issue still present. I have the 5.2L V8 engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was told it could be timing chain problem?  This makes no sense to me.  Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2424" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T06:07:24.493" Title="96 Jeep Grand Cherokee acceleration loss" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4753" CreationDate="2012-11-19T12:13:28.267" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Very gently tapping to decrease gap is fine. Most spark plug gap measuring tools also work to gently pry the electrode back. The key is to be careful. It does not take much force to make the adjustment and the insulation around the electrode can be damaged if handled improperly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T12:13:28.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4753" CreationDate="2012-11-19T14:53:48.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that while it's common to re-gap copper plugs, the platinum (and other more exotic) plugs that I've seen usually say that they're not to be re-gapped.  If you choose to re-gap them, the risk is possible breakage (potentially during operation) as some of those other metals are more brittle than copper and don't appreciate being re-gapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T14:53:48.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-19T16:42:06.167" Score="3" ViewCount="2129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2008 Chevy Uplander has an auto levelling system, where if a certain amount of weight is placed in the rear, it will pump air in, or take it out of the rear suspension to keep the vehicle level. My wife recently hit a BIG pothole, and it seems since then the sensor has gotten stuck in the position where it thinks the vehicle is weighted down in the rear, and is pumping a bit more air into it each time we start the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first it wasnt too bad, we could feel the rear suspension was a bit stiffer than usual but it was driveable. After troubleshooting it a bit more ourselves, the suspension has been pumped up to the max. I can hear the compressor kick on for a few seconds each time i start the vehicle. The compressor does not run constantly, just those few seconds (like is usually would to level the vehicle before driving). There is so much air in it now that the rear will not move down at all, making for a very rough ride. you can also see how high the rear end is in the air when looking at the van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have it scheduled to go into the dealer to have it looked at, but before it goes in I wanted to see if anybody has had any experience with this sort of issue. To me it just sounds like a sensor needs to be reset/unstuck. Is there something i can check underneath without having to dig out too many tools and start taking things apart, or is this a fairly complex mechanism? Short term it would be nice to drain a bit of the air that is trapped in the system for a little relief while we are driving it in the meantime. I have already removed the fuse for the level control and replaced it to see if that would reset the system, but didn't seem to have an impact. I am pretty sure there is a mechanism that attaches to the body and the suspension that controls this and its likely gotten itself stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers on this one would be a big help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T13:17:44.977" Title="Level control on 2008 Chevy uplander stuck on" Tags="|suspension|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4748" CreationDate="2012-11-19T16:58:06.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your single bulb has two filaments, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. If you look at the back of the headlight bulb, there's three prongs. One is for the low beam, one is for the hi beam, and the last is the shared ground. The low beam and hi beam need to be turned on and off independently, so you need two relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uhQac.gif&quot; alt=&quot;relay wiring diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(image source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rallylights.com/hella/HeadlampWiring.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rallylights.com/hella/HeadlampWiring.aspx&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note two relays at left. This image shows two bulbs at right, you'll only use one. You still need two relays, and I hope this diagram helps show why that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the above diagram says &quot;from OE low beam circuit&quot; and &quot;from OE high beam circuit,&quot; you'll be making connections to your existing headlight wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a typical socket for an H4 bulb. Your wire colors may be different, but the layout will be the same. This image is from the BACK of the connector, i.e. not the side the bulb plugs into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jKTlI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jKTlI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;H4 headlight connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/H4_socket_wiring2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;easternbeaver.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, you'd connect the yellow lo beam wire to where the wiring diagram says &quot;from OE low beam circuit&quot;, and the white hi beam wire to where the wiring diagram says &quot;from oe hi beam circuit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-18T11:39:56.693" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T11:39:56.693" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4735" CreationDate="2012-11-19T23:12:56.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound stupid, but you changed the oil, right? It sounds like you haven't done much maintenance on the car, maybe this is what happens to a 20 year old engine when it is neglected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T21:18:51.260" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T21:18:51.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4757" CreationDate="2012-11-19T23:53:48.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a fuse box under your hood and under the passenger side dash. You should go back to square one and check the draw as you remove each individual fuse one by one. If you've removed every fuse and still find a draw or a dead battery, then you've really got a mystery on your hands. In that case, a positive wire somewhere has been exposed and is grounding out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would remove the high and low fan relay just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T23:53:48.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4768" CreationDate="2012-11-20T00:47:29.940" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out that my fan mower's bearing were going out by the loud screeching it made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being lazy I ignored it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then one day I was sitting at a light and the cabin filled with horrible smoke. I can hear an additional belt as it struggles. I can use it just long enough to defrost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quess my question is, will doing this for a few weeks until I can repair it cause any other permanent damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2002 Taurus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2426" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T08:20:25.080" Title="cabin fan motor loud then burnt out" Tags="|ford|belt|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4767" CreationDate="2012-11-20T08:20:25.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have partially answered this yourself- you are seeing smoke, which implies the bearings are getting hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they could start a fire. Or in seizing up the fan could cause your wiring to catch fire. Or you could end up with a cabin full of dangerous fumes... etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do permanent damage, yes. Pay close attention and you might be okay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd just get it fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T08:20:25.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4770" CreationDate="2012-11-20T09:39:08.993" Score="5" ViewCount="22174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a broken section of exhaust. Should I replace the gaskets also? one of the gaskets is directly between the engine and the new part. The other is between the new and an old part of the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2427" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T22:29:03.540" Title="should I replace gaskets when replacing exhaust?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4769" CreationDate="2012-11-20T11:32:04.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should replace any gaskets that will be disturbed by replacing the pipes. Clean any old gasket material off the surface that the gasket sat on with a putty knife or something similar. You want a nice clean surface for the new gasket to seal against. After everything is reassembled start the engine and place your hand near the pipe joints to feel for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T11:32:04.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4763" CreationDate="2012-11-20T13:17:44.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine there is a mechanical linkage attached to the axle and bodywork with a sensor to measure the angle between them. Chances are, as you suggest, either it has got stuck or damaged, or something is wedged in it stopping it from moving correctly. Can you get under the back of the vehicle? If so, you may be able to identify the mechanism and there is a good chance that any damage or obstruction will be visible, and you may be able to rectify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you might be able to disconnect the sensor and fool it into thinking the system is unloaded. With an older vehicle, this would be quite easy (either short or open-circuit the connector), but I suspect yours will be too new for that to work, as most modern vehicles run such sensors off the central computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T13:17:44.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-20T15:30:35.333" Score="2" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;In September someone broke into my car, nothing was missing but the alarm went off until the next day I came back from school and the battery was completely drained. So my dad jump started it and moved it, but after that we tried to start it again and it didn't even crank. So we got a new battery a week later from autozone and it started right up nice &amp;amp; normal. We took it for a ride and put it back in a parking spot. The next day it started fine; we did not drive it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two days after that we are back to the same problem; not being able to start the car without jumping it. So we left it for a good 2 weeks, we bought a gallon of gas and jumped it and drove it around the block. As we were making a U turn the engine cut off and I had to run back home and get a car to jump it again. The car would not start with the jumper cables on it, but when we took the cables off it started right up and we drove it home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I went to check if it would start so I turn the key and it started but it made a noise before it started. I turned off the engine and started it again and no noise. So today, it won't start!! Not even a crank! The dome lights are on and everything but when I try to start it the volt gauge goes right before the red line towards the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? It's not an everyday driver, mostly weekend. I want to get it checked by a mechanic but they want to charge 50 - 80 dollars, and I want to drive it to autozone but I don't want to get stuck on the way there with the car turning off and everything. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2428" LastEditorUserId="1554" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T21:19:10.307" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T21:19:10.307" Title="2001 Grand Cherokee Has not been starting?" Tags="|starting|grand-cherokee|starter|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4772" CreationDate="2012-11-20T19:39:19.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;However you hooked up that alarm, disconnect it, and make sure it is good and disconnected. If that alarm was what drained your original battery in the first place, it's probably still not working and draining your battery and shorting out your electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, take that new battery right back to autozone and convince them to trade it for a new one, because the new battery you have is probably toast by now, after all of the times that it was completely drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find a shop that will scan your WJ for OBD codes for free, if something besides your alarm is shorting, there's a chance that it will give you a code without necessarily giving you a check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T19:39:19.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2012-11-20T22:16:38.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to put a little anti-seize on the threads before putting the new plugs in.  That helps ensure the plugs come out nice and easy the next time you have to do it. It doesn't need very much and make sure not to get any of it on the electrodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1554" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T22:16:38.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:24:01.770" Score="1" ViewCount="2593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I fill my car with gas, when I start my car the rpms start jumping and the car sometimes stalls. It's not from over filling because it happens even after adding only a few gallons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2431" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:06:32.697" Title="Engine reving and stalls after filling gas tank" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4779" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:35:20.230" Score="4" ViewCount="1992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota.  Early in the spring I had to have my heater core replaced.  Now it is starting to get cold outside.  When I run my heater it is getting luke warm at best.  Before the heater core was replaced it used to be a lot hotter.  What could have caused it to not kick out very much heat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly check my fluids and the coolant level is always right where it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2298" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T23:48:16.187" Title="Heater not getting very hot" Tags="|dodge|heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:42:11.730" Score="4" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota.  Roughly a month ago my cruise control stopped working.  When I turn on the cruise control I get the light showing that it is on.  However, when I try to engage/set the cruise control it doesn't do anything.  What would cause my cruise control to suddenly not work anymore?  Could it be a fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw another post on here that the brake lights and cruise control don't work.  I am not experiencing that issue.  My brake lights are working fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2298" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T01:11:35.107" Title="Cruise control not working" Tags="|dodge|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2012-11-21T15:02:08.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You very likely have a bad thermostat.  Here are some similar questions that may provide some insight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3226/57&quot;&gt;Where&amp;#39;d my heat go?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4589/57&quot;&gt;Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1991/57&quot;&gt;Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your specific problem, I would check your engine temperature gauge: does the needle ever move up to its normal operating range?  Or does the coolant stay cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T15:02:08.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4778" CreationDate="2012-11-21T15:14:37.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a bad switch.  Assuming the main cruise control system is responding but you aren't getting set, reset, coast, etc., then it's likely that one or more of the internal contacts has broken or come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annoyingly, those control stalks are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jcwhitney.com/cruise-control-kits/dodge-dakota/c20224d412j1s21.jcwx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;integrated units&lt;/a&gt;.  Easy to replace but not cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T15:14:37.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3482" CreationDate="2012-11-21T15:35:27.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution I found was using GROM Audio (http://www.gromaudio.com/) and bought their iPhone package. Got it installed in 10 min or so, quite simple. However, sometimes I have to power on and off the radio a few times for the Grom audio box to understand it is connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tutorials can be found on their website!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1800" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T15:35:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4788" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:18:12.553" Score="4" ViewCount="1629" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Rebel managed to beat one of the pistons into a billion pieces and bend the offending piston rod. I've identified all the damaged parts and ordered replacements, or had them repaired ( cylinder wall honed and pressure tested ) so now I just need to remove all the metal filings that have filled the crank case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston was aluminum, so I can't use a magnet to pull out the metal filings. I was thinking about filling some of the smaller spaces with polyurethane foam to grab the filings, before pulling the foam out, and hopefully most of the aluminum filings with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this approach work, or are there better, standard ways of removing metal shavings from a crank case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T16:22:00.050" Title="What are good techniques for cleaning metal filings out of a crank case?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T20:12:25.020" Score="2" ViewCount="12682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a step-by-step guide to changing the oil of 2004 Nissan Xterra. I found one a very useful one for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/276707-yet-another-diy-oil-change-for-is350-w-pics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lexus&lt;/a&gt; but I can't find one for my Nissan. Does anyone know of one or would like to write one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2433" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T13:03:51.983" Title="Step-by-step guide to changing oil of a 2004 Nissan Xterra" Tags="|nissan|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4787" CreationDate="2012-11-21T22:17:32.517" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1986 VW Jetta seems to have a cold air sensor switch that isn't working.  When I turn the key on and wait the little yellow light glows and then turns off just like it should but the plugs don't warm up.  When I run the current from the battery directly to the the glow plugs (6-8 seconds) the car starts fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2434" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T13:09:51.290" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:09:51.290" Title="1986 VW Jetta Glow Plugs Not Getting Current" Tags="|starting|vw|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T23:22:50.477" Score="4" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a rumbling noise which is related to road speed. It is slightly louder when the steering wheel is turned. Could it be wheel bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have BMW 528i year 2000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2435" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T14:15:32.103" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T14:15:32.103" Title="Rumbling noise related to road speed" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4785" CreationDate="2012-11-22T11:40:03.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does sound very likely - it could be bearings, or as the volume increases when the wheel is turned it may be the universal joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get your car propped up securely and spin the front wheels by hand. You may be able to hear or even feel whereabouts the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, your local garage will be able to diagnose this very quickly and easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T11:40:03.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4784" CreationDate="2012-11-22T13:09:19.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a multimeter? You should be able to check whether they are getting any voltage by measuring their feed. Assuming that they are not, you can then try and trace back the circuit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being an older car this should be quite simple as the wires will be colour coded - there will be a wiring diagram in the back of the Haynes manual. I don't know if they'll be fused or relayed (I suspect not, given the age of the car), but you ought to be able to trace the feed back to the switch and work out where the break is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:09:19.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4782" CreationDate="2012-11-22T16:22:00.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What state is the engine casing? is it all apart? or together? if its all apart then flushing it with something like WD40 or a very thin oil may work better than foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T16:22:00.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2012-11-22T21:15:08.690" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time you won't need heavy braking in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid stopping and starting by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving more calmly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving plenty of distance between you and the vehicle in front (even at low speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply taking your foot of the accelerator early&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let the car slow down, and use the gear until it is no longer appropriate (too slow that the engine starts to struggle), then change down, you will &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; be in the right gear. This will transfer very little shock through the clutch or transmission. You can still use the brake but you don't need as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads wear out much quicker than any gear box will, and the number of brake pad and rotor changes will probably add up to one gear box (over the life of that gear box.) I drive the same way to work everyday. I rarely have to stop and I always beat the lane changers and racers. Drive calmly, and accelerate and brake smoothly. You will get there sooner, with much less stress on your vehicle (and you.) Leaving earlier helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a driver trainer/examiner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastEditorUserId="11626" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T23:06:28.003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:06:28.003" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3956" CreationDate="2012-11-23T18:11:37.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there were no useful fault codes internally, but the fault was resolved to being the actuator switch for that window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replacement was the only course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - got the full diagnostics. Turns out the switch had a fault which damaged part of the motor, so both were replaced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T21:56:46.653" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T21:56:46.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2012-11-24T14:27:38.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your car? It's going to be tough to find exact instructions. There are plenty of resources on the internet for changing oil in general. It's not a big deal at all, there are only a couple things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;: Secure the car in on jackstands/ramps/whatever. Make sure&#xA;it's not going to fall on you. Side note: I've done Pathfinder oil&#xA;changes with the car on the ground, not sure if the Xterra is high&#xA;enough to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't start a car without oil&lt;/strong&gt;. That is, before you think you are done, double check that the drain plug is installed, the new filter is installed, you have poured the correct amount of oil in, and that there are no obvious leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, avoid killing yourself and/or your car. I think those two are the only ways to really screw up on an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Car specific info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car is a VG33 Xterra (the 3.3L, that year they switched to a 4.0L), I can tell you that the oil filter is a canister type (the more widespread type). It should be on the driver's side toward the front of the engine, facing straight down. The 4.0L is also a canister, but I can't remember quite where. In the VQ35 Pathfinder, it's right above the crossmember, angled forward and down (45 degrees). You have to remove the plastic cover under the car between the bumper and the crossmember. I imagine it'd be very similar to that. Plus, the VQs have a drip guide (finally!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drain plug is toward the rear of the vehicle's engine. The 3.3L Xterra's have a very short lower oil pan section, you can't miss it. The 4.0L... can't remember what side, but it's there and hard to miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift/Raise and secure car (if needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain oil into container by removing drain plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fasten drain plug back in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove oil filter and allow oil from it and mating surface to drain into container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach new oil filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove oil fill cap on top of engine, add correct amount of new oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace cap. (Check oil level if you're OCD.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for leaks. Start engine, check for leaks again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove car from jackstands/ramps/whatever.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive 2,500/5000/7,500/15,000 miles or kilometers or whatever and start again at 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You can leave a car on ramps and start it. You can on jackstands too... but if in doubt, swap 8 and 9 around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some good &quot;how-tos&quot; I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-change-your-oil-the-real-down-and-dirty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-change-your-oil-the-real-down-and-dirty.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Car---Truck/Oil-Change/how-to-change-car-oil/View-All&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Car---Truck/Oil-Change/how-to-change-car-oil/View-All&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that some guides tell you do warm the car up before draining. Not sure why they would recommend this. You want the oil cool (when it hits your hand, hot oil doesn't feel good), and you want it all drained to the pan (when the car's off, all the oil slowly returns to the pan). Maybe, if you're in northern climates, you don't want molasses coming out, but still... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change it in the morning when the car is stone cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tips&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few tips that those How-Tos don't mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When removing the drain plug loosen it with a tool. Then move the tools other stuff away from the landing zone as possible. Remove it by hand the rest of the way. You'll have to kind of learn to gauge how far the drain plug is coming along and then right when it's off move your hand away quickly. The goal here is to avoid the gushing oil going everywhere and keep it off your arm(s). If you end up throwing the drain plug into the oil drain pan you are using, don't worry, I've done it a bunch of times. A magnet on a stick works great to retrieve it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a little oil (new or used) on the oil ring of the new filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure that no rubber seal separated from the old filter and is stuck on the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have lots of towels/cloths nearby&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake cleaner cleans off oily car surfaces really well. Don't use it on plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait a minute or two before checking oil after filling up or after shutting the engine off. Oil takes time to recollect in the pan and will give false readings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T01:23:33.630" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T01:23:33.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4798" CreationDate="2012-11-24T19:14:43.290" Score="3" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased a 2007 GMC Sierra and are looking for some details on the assembly for the spare tire. The truck did not come with the rod assembly for the spare tire and we were hoping to make some ourselves, but need some help determining the size of the male adapter at the end of the rod picture below. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LycKY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried 3/8 extension but it just spins inside the spare tire hoist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="82" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T15:22:09.380" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T07:40:14.193" Title="2007 GMC Sierra Rod Assembly for the Spare Tire" Tags="|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4769" CreationDate="2012-11-24T22:29:03.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;gasket surface prep is an art and a science.  yes, always replace gaskets when adjacent parts are disturbed.  it is important to have a clean, even, sealable mating surface on each part so that the gasket can do it's job.  different materials and shapes will require different approaches.  i would avoid using a putty knife in general on aluminum due to the risk of scratching the mating surface.  harder metals like cast iron and steel are more resistant to scratching, so a putty knife can be ok here, but be careful not to gouge.  sandpaper can be used, but only on a flat surface with a sanding block, and again, be careful not to gouge or create low spots, and you want to use decrease the grain size pass after pass to get a smoother surface.  make sure debris is not left to get trapped in your catalytic converter.  clean the area thoroughly.  a good seal on your exhaust system is important to avoid carbon monoxide poising of the driver leading to a fatal collision.  if you can't get the gasket mating surfaces flat, clean, and smooth, have the parts machined by a machine shop for a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2439" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T22:29:03.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-25T02:37:55.133" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Kia Sorento.  I've had it since March, 2010, so almost three years.  In that time, I've had to replace each of the tires at least once, if not twice.  Two months ago I had to replace the two front tires.  I checked with two car repair places at the time, and they came up with roughly the same price and the same suggestion.  I ended up choosing the one that I had gone to before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So about a week ago, I started to feel that the car was learning forward a little.  I'm super sensitive though, so I decided to wait and see if the tire light came on.  Well, it did come on last night, and it feels like there might be another problem with both of the two new front tires.  I called the place that I brought my car to two months ago and they are going to have a look at it on Monday, so I don't know the verdict as of yet.  I'm assuming that the warranty for the tires should still be in place since I've had them for such a short time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, could there be something else on my car that is causing my front tires to have issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2440" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T10:13:33.107" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T10:13:33.107" Title="Having to replace tires" Tags="|tires|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4794" CreationDate="2012-11-25T10:13:04.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By tire light, do you mean tire pressure light? If so, I wouldn't worry - you should as a matter of course be checking your tire pressures every week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the tires are deflating much faster than they should, you should look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have the tires been seated correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the rims clean and free from corrosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the rims bashed or chipped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the valve sealed correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are the correct tires on the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these can cause loss of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T10:13:04.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2012-11-25T16:16:11.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the size you need. It's a hex most of the time, I thought about welding several nuts of the correct size together on the end of tubular steel. That may be the route you need to take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem on a 1999 Yukon so it should be similar to yours &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to use a piece of 1/2 inch square tubular steel by itself. It wasn't an exact fit but worked without any modification. I just use a wrench to turn the rod instead of making a t-handle because it was easier to store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T16:16:11.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2012-11-25T20:24:31.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;2008 enclave I get about 15 mpg in town on 87 and about 18 in town (if I drive it if my wife is driving it don't matter she gets about 11 mpg on either I try and explain to her if you won't take off hard it would help but she has to get up to the speed limit as fast as possible point being watch your driving habits when you change your gas octane it can make a difference but if you trying to save at the pump drive easier it really helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T20:24:31.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="665" CreationDate="2012-11-25T21:00:27.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well according to my Haynes repair manual for a Nissan Armada 2005-2010 year model the power windows are protected by fuses and a circuit breaker. The fuses are located in the fuse panel and each motor is equipped with an internal circuit breaker, this prevents one stuck window from disabling the whole system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2443" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T14:48:29.180" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:48:29.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4803" CreationDate="2012-11-25T23:00:19.300" Score="5" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered and installed a new set of wheels/tires from Tire Rack.  The tires were already mounted and balanced.  It was my first time doing this (installing wheels), but everything seemed straightforward.  When I was finished I noticed a small amount of oil/lube leaking out around the edge of each tire/wheel.  I am &lt;strong&gt;guessing&lt;/strong&gt; that they use lube when installing the tire over the rim, and this little leakage I'm seeing is normal.  Still, I figured it couldn't hurt to ask, even if it is a stupid question. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2450" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:29:49.947" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:29:49.947" Title="Probably a stupid question: normal for lubricant to leak around edge of new tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4804" CreationDate="2012-11-25T23:18:59.977" Score="10" ViewCount="30033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is probably a loaded question with no clear-cut &quot;line in the sand&quot; answer, but I'd still like to see what people say.  I live 3 hours from Tahoe area, so in the winter it is nice to have true ice/snow tires for going to the ski resorts on the weekends.  BUT... my Mon-Fri drives around home are done at sea level, on completely dry (or rain wet) pavement, usually in the 45-65F range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know why it's not a good idea to drive winter tires year round, but I don't see any published specs from tire mfr's regarding what max temp they suggest their tire be used in.  I'm faced with the options of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) leaving tires on all winter which at best will cause faster wear on them, and at worst will be a safety concern if I give up traction on wet &quot;warm&quot; pavement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) swap tires every weekend, which is obviously a PITA, though I know at least one person living nearby who does this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that performance winters may have been a better solution for my situation compared to ice/snow tires, but I do not want to even give up a tiny fraction of ice performance, after a scary incident I had on ice last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T23:56:53.173" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T07:14:02.397" Title="Max temperature for studless ice/snow tires on asphalt?" Tags="|tires|winter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4801" CreationDate="2012-11-25T23:55:10.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing is the remnants of the lubricant that was used to intall the tires in the rim. It should stop in the first few miles. If the appearance bothers you wipe on any one of the many tire gloss products available at auto parts stores and the streaks should disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T23:55:10.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2012-11-26T00:24:29.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in New England. It can snow anytime from Haloween until April 1st. Depending on the year we can get five or twenty-five significant storms a year. Most of the winter the average daytime temp is in the twenties, but can easily hit forty for a few days. Most roads are bare two days after a storm. Everyone I know that does use winter specific tires put them on and leave them on all winter. In your case I would leave them on for the ski season. No maker that I am aware of has an absolute number when they should be removed. You are going to put wear on one set or the other. Although the chance is ,swapping the tires every weekend may be risky. Think in terms of you're running late, your in a hurry,it's dark, did I torque all the lugnuts? Yea sure I did I've done this every weekend for the last 12 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T00:24:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4948" CreationDate="2012-11-26T02:47:32.530" Score="5" ViewCount="117014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2006 impala that randomly will blow cold air at idle. Sometimes if I stop at redlight the heater will blow cold air. If I get the engine above idle by reving the engine to about 1K rpm it starts to blow warm again. The temp gauge remains at the normal spot on the gauge. The radiator and expansion tank are at the correct levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T22:37:16.903" Title="Impala no heat at Idle" Tags="|chevrolet|heater|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2012-11-26T12:23:06.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter tyres are usually rated for use when ambient temperatures are below 45F, so if you are going above that you will shorten their lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to realise that above that temperature they will not be as good at stopping you as normal tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you take these factors into account, you can certainly use them all winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T12:23:06.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2012-11-26T17:40:58.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Ohio we get 30 degree days and snow for awhile, then can suddenly get near 80 again early on in the Winter.  Also it's pretty standard to use snow tires for our Summer gravel/dirt road rallye events.  Wear is accelerated at higher temperatures, especially if you corner hard on paved roads.  Other than that I can't say I've ever witnessed any other issues.  One concern is overheating the tire to the point of failure though.  On light sportscars, it hasn't seemed to be a problem, but if I had a truck loaded to the max gross, well, that's another story entirely...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T17:40:58.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2012-11-26T17:44:45.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible stuck thermostat.  The &quot;normal&quot; indication on factory temperature gauges cover a huge range.  My Eclipse has a factory gauge and an aftermarket gauge.  The factory gauge settles in at &quot;normal&quot; for a 160-200 degree range (normal temp is 185).  At 160 the car barely makes any heat in the cabin, at 185 it's got decent heat, and at 200 it can light your feet on fire.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could also be a failing water pump, but that mode of failure is not one I've heard of very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T17:44:45.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2012-11-26T18:11:19.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second mac’s reply. A couple things to keep in mind when buying an A2DP receiver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the receiver turns on automatically when you start the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a receiver that can pair with more than one phone, i.e. if you have a passenger that wants to play music from their device.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T00:21:25.103" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T00:21:25.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-26T18:19:31.333" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fourth rear window in 3 years to shatter on its own. Different weather conditions on each day it broke, car not sealed tight ie. window open. Once while in car driving it broke. Glass company can't figure it out. Every thing checks out all right, hasn't been in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2446" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T19:52:52.623" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T09:22:22.433" Title="2005 pacifica rear window shatters" Tags="|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4759" CreationDate="2012-11-27T01:43:23.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking it to the Jeep dealership.  Everything was replaced correctly and there was no pressure loss.  The problem was in the Throttle Position Sensor.  The auto parts store sold us a TPS that was supposedly OEM but the dealership said it wasn't.  They put in their part and presto, a horrible engine was suddenly purring again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it important to post the follow-up because sometimes you do everything right and you don't think it's your materials that are the issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And btw, a tune-up (replace spark plugs, wires, etc) is not always done because something is running wrong.  It's good engine maintenance, designed to make your vehicle last longer, be more efficient, and get the best gas mileage it can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2447" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T01:43:23.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4817" CreationDate="2012-11-27T19:33:50.383" Score="2" ViewCount="2215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 93 Toyota 4runner with 31/10.5-15, if I understand the conversions correctly that would be a 267/76/R15 in metric. I am looking at replacing these tires and have found a set of 235/75/R15's that fit my budget, again if I understand the conversions correctly that makes this a 28.9x9.3-15. A somewhat smaller, thinner tire. Can I use these tires as replacements on my existing rims? or is going from 10.5 down to 9.3 too much of a difference in size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to compare my stock tire with the ones I am looking at purchasing and it gave me the following information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&lt;b&gt;Stock Tire:&lt;/b&gt; 31x10.50R15&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Section Width:     10.51 in or 267 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim Diameter:      15 in    or 381 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim Width Range:   7-9 in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall Diameter:  30.97 in or 786.63 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sidewall Height:   7.98 in  or 202.69 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radius:            15.48 in or 393.19 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circumference:     97.29 in or 2471.1 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revs per Mile:     671.6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actual Speed:      60 mph   or 100 km/h  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&lt;b&gt;New Tire:&lt;/b&gt; 235/75R15&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Section Width:    9.25 in  or 235 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim Diameter:     15 in    or 381 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim Width Range:  6-8.5 in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall Diameter: 28.87 in or 733.29 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sidewall Height:  6.93 in  or 176.02 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radius:           14.43 in or 366.52 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circumference:    90.69 in or 2303.5 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revs per Mile:    720.4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Speed:        64.3 mph or 107 km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speedometer Difference: 7.266% faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter Difference:    6.79%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a warning on the site that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When changing tire sizes, we recommend staying within 3% of the diameter/height of the original tire. Any more than this and you face the risk of brake failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess with this information it looks like it would work, however there may be risks. When changing sizes greater than 3% what changes need to be made to compensate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2451" LastEditorUserId="2451" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T23:50:44.937" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:27:08.853" Title="How to determine tire compatibility [93 4runner]" Tags="|toyota|tires|wheels|4wd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4815" CreationDate="2012-11-27T19:43:57.740" Score="6" ViewCount="94010" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2004 VW R32 (which uses a Haldex AWD system), I have one damaged summer tire. All the tires have at least half of their usable tread depth left. At $200 ea, I'd like to replace only a pair of tires, which I'd mount on the front of the vehicle where the wear occurs more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A TireRack salesman said that some AWD vehicles have a tolerance of 2-3/32&quot; tread difference between axles to avoid damage to the transfer case (his term, i'd call the component in question a center differential), and that I should check with VW before buying the new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VW customer care gave the answer that as long as the two tires new tires are either both on the front or both on the rear, that it's OK. In other words, there's no tolerance limit. I find this somewhat hard to believe. A VW dealer I called gave the off-hand answer of 6/32&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would having tires of different size on the front and rear axles put extra stress on the center differential of an all wheel drive car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T19:55:29.517" LastActivityDate="2021-10-07T17:30:42.697" Title="Is it OK to replace only 2 tires on an AWD car?" Tags="|tires|awd|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:42:09.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;It depends&quot;...  I've historically opted to replace all 4 just to be safe (on my AWD with 3 LSD beast, on the RWD open diff I replace 1 at a time if needed :-) ).  In theory a small difference won't blow up the transfer case or the diffs (there's always at least a TINY difference anyways).  Normal wear with a normal rotation obviously doesn't violate the limit, but 2 brand new tires with 2 at the wear bars supposedly does.  Where exactly the line between &quot;safe&quot; and &quot;unsafe&quot; is, I have no idea.  Actually, it's probably more of a gray area based on heat buildup...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T21:42:09.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:58:11.187" Score="25" ViewCount="114888" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shopping for new tires from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com&quot;&gt;tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt;, the production date of the tires is listed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering tires from a 2007 production run, which would make them around 5 years old today (after damaging a tire, I'm looking at buying a pair of the same tires to match whats already on the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change tires seasonally between high performance summer and studless snow/ice, so a given set of tires can last me quite a while. I'd expect to get 4 seasons out of these (i.e. four more calendar years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How old is too old for a passenger car tire? How old would a &quot;new tire&quot; have to be before you passed it over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T20:29:23.630" Title="How old is too old for a new tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2012-11-27T22:00:41.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the info I have been able to gather the 4runner came with 225/75R/15 or 31-10.50-15 tires. In order to determine if your wheels will work you nedd to determine the rim width. Many OEM wheels will have it stamped on the wheel. Finding it may require removal of the wheel, some stamp it next to the valve stem. You may be able to get a good estimate by eyeballing the rim with a ruler inserted into one of the wheels slotted openings. Once you have determined the width check the tire makers spec sheet they will list recomended rim widths along with minimums and maximums. Each tire maker will have their own standards. My gut feeling is that unless the rims you have are border line to big or too small for your present tires the new ones will fit. In response to your edit. Your may run in to tire clearance issues if you were going larger, since you are going smaller, for your case not a problem. Also if switching to a taller tire the center of gravity will change possibly affecting handling,particularly at high speed or during directional changes. Also not likely to occur in your case. Off road capability will be reduced with the smaller tires as your ground clearance will decrease. The smaller tire also will &quot;float&quot; less in deep soft mud or loose gravel/sandy conditions. As you can see by your chart the speedometer will also be affected. If you contact a transmission shop they should be able to guide you in swapping the speedo cable gear to correct the inaccurancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T00:27:08.853" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T00:27:08.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2012-11-27T23:48:16.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would remove the heater hoses and flush out the heater core using a garden hose. Be sure to flush it both ways. Test for leaks when done and add coolant as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2452" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T23:48:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2012-11-28T12:44:56.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.  I've seen a set of 5 year old tires basically disintegrate (cracked so bad they sprung leaks everywhere at once), but that was probably due to heat cycles (as they had 140,000 highway miles on them).  I've also got a set of 13 year old tires on one of my cars right now (only used for a couple months a year and the occasional dirt/gravel road rally) and they don't even have surface cracks yet.  I've also got a 10 year old set of tires that I use for the occasional track day, which are approaching the wear bars, but show no signs of distress yet.  I had a 10 year old spare (used twice that I can think of) tire crack and leak too.  Dunno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T12:44:56.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4821" CreationDate="2012-11-28T15:51:13.410" Score="15" ViewCount="213563" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty common question and I get a lot of conflicting responses from &quot;Extremely dangerous could blow out at any minute&quot; to &quot;I've driven on it for a month&quot;. A mechanic at midas told me I could drive on it for a week and be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a 1993 Grand Am thats actually in fairly good condition. One of my tires cracked really badly on the side (I knew they were old and was going to replace them, all four).I had it swapped out for the donut tire but I don't know if it is safe for me to drive on the spare until the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive about 24 miles per day to get to and from work. It's the only place I drive to short of a subway just down the street for lunch. It's pretty cold right now and I hear the main danger for donuts is a blow out, reduced traction and more wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this scenario, is it safe to drive on the donut until the weekend to have it replaced or should take time off in the morning to have it fixed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a general question but more so a &quot;In this exact scenario&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2455" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T18:44:01.633" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T18:44:01.633" Title="How long can I drive on a donut spare?" Tags="|tires|spare-tire|donut|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4820" CreationDate="2012-11-28T17:03:06.467" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the critical caveat: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are the driver.  You have to make the decision.&lt;/strong&gt;  It ultimately doesn't matter what we say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given, that, I would say &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt;, it is not safe to drive until the weekend.  Get the broken tire fixed or replaced as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Top speed limitation: the donut is top-speed rated for 50 mph (check the sidewall of the donut).  That's a hard limit.  I would expect failure probabilities to increase rapidly as speed increased.  Stories about how someone drove super fast on a donut I regard as the babblings of a lunatic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maximum distance: driving until the weekend is three calendar days as of today (Wednesday).  At your cited distance, that's at least 72 miles.  Check the sidewall of the donut: there's almost certainly a maximum distance cited and it's usually 50 miles &lt;em&gt;(edited: Brian is right in the comments.  70 is less common)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolute best case: you'd drive super slowly and go the full 72 miles.  At that point, you'd need to get your broken tire fixed &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you'd need to purchase a new donut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, you try to drive on icy roads on a donut and have a terrible accident.  Please don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T21:14:31.623" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T21:14:31.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T11:40:28.617" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Mustang.  Today I drove the car almost 150 KMs at normal speeds.  When I Stopped the car, the radiator water drained out completely.  What is the reason for that?  What will be the cost for repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T18:42:21.773" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T22:31:03.063" Title="Radiator water leak" Tags="|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="54666" CreationDate="2012-11-29T13:30:21.860" Score="6" ViewCount="21708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to get a new petrol (gasoline) car soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine, who worked as a motorbike mechanic when he was young, told me he puts a small quantity (125 ml / 4 oz) of 2 stroke oil in the petrol tank the first time he fills a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He argues it helps the burn (break) in of the engine, making the piston ring seal better against the sleeve, or somehow doing tolerance &quot;matter less&quot;. I've found information in the web on doing so to diesel engines, but not to petrol ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you find doing so advisable? Anything to worry about if I do so? Does it sound logical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1856&quot;&gt;related question on breaking in new cars&lt;/a&gt;, but not covering this idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T11:20:38.440" Title="Add 2 stroke oil to a 4 stroke petrol engine during burn-in period" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|oil|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T14:30:57.497" Score="7" ViewCount="9640" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2577/78&quot;&gt;When should I change the oil, as the tech recommends or as my oil change light indicates&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1547/do-newer-cars-actually-monitor-the-quality-of-oil&quot;&gt;Do newer cars actually monitor the quality of oil?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/884/how-does-the-change-oil-light-system-work-and-does-it-matter-what-type-of-oil-yo&quot;&gt;How does the change oil light system work and does it matter what type of oil you use for it to work properly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a new car owner for the first time this year, and with that seems to come some different experiences as compared to having a car with 80,000+ pre-owned miles on it.  One of these has been the arrival of my first &quot;Oil Change Needed&quot; alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Avenger#Dodge_Avenger_sedan_.282008-present.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012 Dodge Avenger&lt;/a&gt;.  The manual suggests an oil change interval of around 8,000 miles.  So, it was much to my surprise when the computer indicated an oil change needed after only 3,500 miles.  I checked in with the dealership to see if this was a malfunction.  They told me some things I've also confirmed in the aforementioned related threads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Oil Change indicator is triggered by things like oil viscosity and other qualities - not just a mileage counter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These things can be affected by driving habits - highway miles generally get more life out of the oil than city miles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this I was still feeling a bit confused as to why, when probably 80% or more of my driving &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on the highway, the car was prompting me for an oil change at less than half the normal interval stated in the manual.  Then, the dealership mechanic told me something to the effects of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's normal for the first oil change to be sooner, because the engine still has to flush out some metal shavings and other contaminants left behind from the manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it would seem rather ridiculous that a manufacturer would allow such contaminants to exist in what the common consumer is expecting to be a pristine new engine.  However, this is also the only explanation that I can think of which seems probable if we want to exclude certain other possibilities like sensor malfunction or bad business practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, am I being properly informed or is the dealership feeding me a bit of a line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T09:26:23.537" Title="Is it normal for a car's first oil change to be sooner than the regular interval?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4825" CreationDate="2012-11-29T16:14:29.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first one is usually a much shorter interval, yes. This allows for bedding in, possibly flushing contaminants (I'd be upset if I had metal shavings in my engine when I got it) and allowing minor tolerance differences to be smoothed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often a different oil type is used for that first period to assist with this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T18:43:27.530" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T18:43:27.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T16:59:37.073" Score="2" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I know if there is an LSD installed on a transmission from a Dodge Neon 2003? For what indicators should I look for?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKO0o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission from a Dodge Neon 2003&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:36:07.870" Title="When looking at a transmission, how can I know if there is a LSD?" Tags="|transmission|dodge|neon|lsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2012-11-29T22:31:03.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is most likely because you have a leak in the system - this could be in various different places, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In one of the hoses carrying water to and from the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a gasket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost for repair will be dependent on what component the leak is in and where that component is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the radiator has overheated and the water has escaped as steam - which could happen through pump failure, blockage etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the water escape as steam or drain out onto the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T22:31:03.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4825" CreationDate="2012-11-30T00:06:25.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding of the way the GM &quot;oilminder&quot; works the computer monitors various engine conditions and mileage and possibly time. In my case I short cycle the engine (start it up and shut it off before it reaches normal temperature) quite often as I have a short commute. This allows condensation to potentially accumulate in the crankcase. If the oil reached normal temperature this would evaporate. So the computer is tracking shortcycles, load ,rpm, oil pressure etc. Then the software decides when you should change the oil. I know the system works because in the winter when the engine never warms up it can signal a change in as little as 2000 miles. In the summer it may never send the signal as I never go over 5000 miles between changes. As far as what set yours off early it may have been the assembly lube that was used when the motor was assembled. It is much thicker than oil and get washed off the rotating parts by the oil as it circulates. This may have partially clogged the filter resulting in change signal. It is also possible that either the vehicle was started frequently at the dealer so the oil had hours of use with little miles or that it was calculated based on how long since the first engine start. I would monitor the time intervals for a few changes  before being concerned. Just remember the computer is also monitoring how long you drove with &quot;change oil soon&quot; light on. Ignoring it could result in some headaches if you need to make a claim under warranty for engine repairs.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T00:06:25.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2012-11-30T09:23:42.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Bob's comment 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want to risk your engine trying something unsupported by guidance from the manufacturer? This &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; invalidate any warranty from them! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally manufacturers give good guidance on running in engines (where necessary) including which oils, what speeds/revs you should use etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T09:23:42.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2012-11-30T11:28:43.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd never use tyres which are more than 5 years old, regardless of visual appearance. Rubber ages pretty badly after a certain interval, and even if you store them as recommended (dry and cool places) their quality and especially hardness deteriorate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is even more valid for winter/studded tyres, or tyres for performance vehicles, since you absolutely want to be able to rely on them in harsh conditions. A car with old winter tyres on a chilly day (-5 to -10 &amp;deg;C) has the steering characteristics of a 1.5 ton curling stone. Do yourself a favour and buy new ones--with winter and summer sets, they will last for approximately 5 years while doing ~20&amp;nbsp;000 km per year on average, and the cost amortized over the years is not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2018-05-01T19:06:59.630" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T19:06:59.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-30T13:04:28.117" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a first generation Nissa Micra and the gearbox is on the way out.&#xA;It currently only has a 4 speed gearbox!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any other gearboxes compatible with the car (maybe a 5 speed) and how can I find out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T10:30:46.177" Title="First generation Nissan Micra gearbox" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2012-11-30T14:39:52.810" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to sneak a clamp on to the positive terminal, and there's an auxiliary negative (ground) terminal lug nut to clamp onto right in front of the coolant fill tube and power steering fluid reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60TF1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;odysseybattery&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise if you really want more room, you need to remove the intake tube (nothing to do with &lt;em&gt;exhaust&lt;/em&gt;) by disconnecting it at the rubber snorkel attached to the throttle body. Loosen any hose clamps on it, and use some force to pry it loose the first time. It might be stubborn, but just keep wiggling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T14:39:52.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4835" CreationDate="2012-11-30T20:10:30.360" Score="8" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, my Rebel 250 blew a piston, allowing the piston rod to beat on the top of the cylinder and the valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some scarring there now, as well as a jagged protrusion or two. What are my options for repairing this scarring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I hone it down to simply get rid of the jagged bits, then brush it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I replace the entire cylinder head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of what I'm working with. It's not great, but the damaged head is on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5PrHg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the damaged cylinder; on top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastEditorUserId="2432" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T21:34:59.133" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:26:49.637" Title="How do I handle scarring on a cylinder head?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2012-11-30T21:06:53.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the depth of the scar, honing might work. Otherwise, depending on availability of parts, you can replace the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T21:06:53.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2012-12-01T00:31:05.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the damage is mostly superficial, and it's not warped or causing a gasket leak or a valve leak ( which could let coolant into your oil and then you will have problems), I think that you could very easily get by without replacing the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T00:31:05.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4858" CreationDate="2012-12-01T22:39:09.607" Score="3" ViewCount="5639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experiencing rough idling on my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for the last year or so.  It has 182,000 miles on it. About every 6 months now I use seafoam cleaner in the tank and that clears it up temporarily, but then it comes back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard using a pressurized cleaner in a can attached to the fuel rail does a better job, but I'm not sure how to get the hose.  I can buy the Pro Cleen can from O'Reillys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this?  Buying a professional kit is anywhere from $170 USD to over $1000 USD depending on the equipment.  It's $100 to $150 USD to have someone do it, but I'd like to do it myself if it's effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T13:17:06.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T10:45:23.453" Title="Cleaning fuel injectors with a pressurized can?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2012-12-01T22:49:14.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally it's simple, unless you have a Ford Windstar 3.8L engine 1996 model, like I do.  Unless you have very long arms and small hands, you can't reach anything from underneath the vehicle, nor can you reach over the top of the engine as a cowling prevents access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To do the plugs, you have to take out the cowl over the engine to be able to reach everything.  That took me 30 minutes to get the upper and lower parts off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you may need a special cable puller if the spark plug wires are hard to get off.  One I had broke as I was pulling it off.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I had to use a special 3 point flex head rachet wrench to fit in-between cables/hoses and get each spark plug out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mention this as you don't want to assume all cars are easy for this and if you have a windstar this should help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was the toughest spark plug replacement I'd ever done.  To finish I made sure I had anti-seize on the spark plug threads and the boot grease on the spark plug boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T22:49:14.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4846" CreationDate="2012-12-02T18:56:36.173" Score="7" ViewCount="34477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stock 2010 Acura TSX. I don't know what the official term is (maybe body sway) but I would like to reduce the amount of swaying it does as I'm going through turns, especially at higher speeds. It's that feeling of your head bobbing from side to side as your whipping through turns (and what makes me dizzy if I keep it up long enough). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a 96 Acura Integra before that I put an aftermarket strut bar in the front. Not sure how much that helped but my teggy hugged the road and I could whip through turns quickly with very little sway. I realize that the TSX is higher up and I can't expect it to handle like an Integra but what can I do to reduce the swaying? Do I replace the front or rear strut bar or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T07:07:09.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T07:07:09.013" Title="How to reduce vehicle swaying (body sway)" Tags="|suspension|acura|integra|swaybar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4839" CreationDate="2012-12-02T20:04:54.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strut bars go towards chassis rigidity. Thicker anti-sway bars will help keep the car more level during turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what would help even more is an upgraded suspension. Springs, shocks and lowering the car will help. Keep in mind that having a less tight fitting seat contributes to the feeling of sloppy handling, whether or not the car actually handles worse/better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T20:04:54.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-02T23:06:14.907" Score="8" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2012 CRV. Now, it's time for an oil change. I already moved so the dealer is too far away from my house (may need half day off) and there is no other public transportation to go there. My guess is the cost is about the same or more with other shops such as mida's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to go the Honda Dealer? I am not sure whether it will break any warranty. This is my first car so please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="986" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T18:09:48.267" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T15:54:38.553" Title="Do I need to go to a dealer for a simple maintenance?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|oil-change|replace|dealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-02T23:35:17.940" Score="4" ViewCount="1176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Mk1 Renault Megane which has recently stopped unlocking the other doors when the driver's door is opened. The 'door open' indicator light also does not illuminate when the driver's door is open, but it does for the other doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The door sensor switch is working OK since I have swapped it with one from another door and the problem remains.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the connector block to the door sensor switch is getting 12V through it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The central locking will release if the button on the dashboard is pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:27:30.010" Title="2001 Mk1 Renault Megane Central Locking Drivers Door Release" Tags="|locks|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-02T23:38:23.980" Score="3" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, when I was driving and had to stop at a set of light the car all of a sudden stopped. All the lights on the spedometer came up, but the A/C, radio all was working fine. I turned it off and tried again did not start up, (did this for 3 times). Eventually it started, and after around 300 Meters it stopped again. I parked my car in a car park, opened the hood to see if there was anything visibly wrong (nothing I could see). I left the car off for another 15 mins and tried again and it started up and turned off again after 55 seconds. This was the case again when I tried after 20 mins (before this I reset the battery). I called the road side assistance guy and he took around more then 1 hour to reach me. When he came, the car turned on and he took it for a spin and did not have any problems at all, it was on for more then 5 mins while we were doing the paperwork. The road side assistant also advised me that the computer in my car has not returned any errors. Please advise me of if anyone of you guys have experienced this sort of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanking you greatly,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Ilesh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2464" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T13:07:53.863" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:07:53.863" Title="Honda Accord 2004 V6 Australian, Can stopped in the middle of the road" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4841" CreationDate="2012-12-03T00:21:42.670" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in the United States you are not required to use the dealer for service,parts or repairs to maintain your warranty. You will be required to have the warranty work done at the dealer except in extenuating circumstances,(like the nearest dealer is 150 miles away) but you must still contact them first. If they deny a warranty claim on the basis of non dealer service you can take legal action. You are required to maintain the vehicle at the factory intervals. Most independent shops now have the ability to check the service requirements for your vehicle on line if you don't have an owners manual. Maintain a record of any work that is done. All that is needed to maintain the warranty is proof that the required service was done. This means you can do the work yourself, keep a record of what,  when etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T00:21:42.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4843" CreationDate="2012-12-03T00:40:26.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know first hand how aggrevating these intermittant problems can be. It is hard to fix something that won't stay broken. This sounds like a very typical fuel pump relay failure. For some reason older Honda fuel pump relays fail when they get warm. After it has cooled off it works fine. With the help of an assistant you may be able to verify the fault. the next time it won't start, (hopefully you are somewhere safe like a parking lot). While your assistant turns the ignition key to the &quot;on&quot; position listen for the sound of the fuel pump running. It is easiest to hear near the fuel fill door. You may want to remove the gas cap and put your ear near the filler neck. Listen carefully as the pump will only run for about five seconds before it shuts off. The relay location varies with makes and models. But under the dash near the steering column is a good start. If you don't hear the pump run it will give your mechanic a direction to troubleshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T00:47:23.317" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T00:47:23.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4839" CreationDate="2012-12-03T02:19:24.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are very close to answering your own question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... what can I do to reduce the swaying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is an upgraded &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sway_bar#Principles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sway bar&lt;/a&gt;.  This is &quot;... usually a torsion spring that resists body roll motions.&quot;  This is in contrast to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strut_bar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;strut bar&lt;/a&gt; &quot;... designed to reduce ... strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if your goal is to reduce body roll, one of the cheapest ways to do so is to upgrade the sway bar(s).  Strut tower bars will have a much more limited effect and should usually be considered after upgrading tires, sway bars, struts and springs (i.e., much later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat:&lt;/strong&gt; increasing the roll stiffness will change your under/oversteering biases.  Specifically, a stiffer bar in the front generally increases understeer.  Likewise, a stiffer rear will increase oversteer.  That said, I had a 97 Integra some time back and installed an adjustable rear sway bar.  I adored its steering responsiveness in the summer but also managed to scare myself several times in the winter....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T07:06:03.670" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T07:06:03.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4848" CreationDate="2012-12-03T08:43:49.277" Score="3" ViewCount="14517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps somebody can identify this issue. The car is a 2003 BMW Z4. The symptoms are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car wouldn't start last week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jump leads did nothing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push started the car in 2nd, engine starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took The car for a drive, stopped the engine, started it. All fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Came back next morning, car wouldn't start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the battery. Started the car in Halfords car park. Drove home&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started the car again last night. No problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to start it again this morning and nothing. Battery near full charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights etc. still working&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I push start the car again now, drive round the block, the car will start normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2466" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T01:34:12.227" Title="Car starts with push start but not with jump leads" Tags="|battery|bmw|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4847" CreationDate="2012-12-03T09:30:19.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like your starter motor is on the way out, as you are getting enough power, as a bump start is working, and sometimes you are able to start normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't that uncommon - they do take a lot of stress and load, and the internal friction can end up being too high for them to cope with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A temporary fix I have used in the past is to whack the starter motor with a plank of wood or a lump hammer, but the real solution is to get your starter motor checked out and then replaced if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T09:30:19.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4850" CreationDate="2012-12-03T16:12:51.277" Score="6" ViewCount="3078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experiencing a problem with the brakes on my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I replaced almost every component of them over the course of the 2 years. Most of the replacements occurred in April 2012, because of problems similar to what I am having now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front brakes: (disc)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In April 2012, Replaced &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; pads and rotors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Mid-2011, replaced caliper on driver-side disc brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Mid-2010, replaced caliper on passenger-side disc brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear brakes: (drum)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In April 2012, replaced both sets of shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Early 2011, replaced both drums&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I completed the repairs in April 2012, all of my brake problems completely went away; the car stopped perfectly. This lasted for about 3-4 months. Symptoms started popping up again in August. When braking, even a light tap on the brakes can cause the car to start to skid, even after the brakes have been in use for 10-15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;feels&lt;/strong&gt; like it is the drum brakes locking, but I don't know for sure. Do the self tensioners sometimes over-compensate and need to be backed off? One more useful piece of information: back in August when the brakes began manifesting problems, it felt as if the brakes were catching due to uneven areas (while applying the pedal slightly, you could feel a drag-spin-drag-spin on the vehicle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are only about 9-10 months old. Plenty of tread, 5-6K miles on them at most.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The skidding can happen at VERY low speeds, even under 5 mph, while barely depressing the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T21:52:11.587" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T17:52:06.917" Title="Brakes gripping and causing skidding" Tags="|brakes|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4849" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:30:37.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four things come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two could be a result of mileage or age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle seals may be leaking gear oil on to the brake shoes. The oil will make the shoes grabby (if that is a word). The effect is that the shoes tend to grab or stick when applied. If the leak is slight, it may not have been noticed when the shoes were changed. Over time it slowly contaminated the shoes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slight leak in a brake wheel cylinder will have the same effect as above: the brake fluid will make the shoes sticky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As drum brakes have become obsolete technology an alternative problem may be incorrect reassembly. Typically the shoes on each side consist of a long shoe and a short shoe. The long shoe is usually facing the rear, the short shoe faces the front. The length difference may be less than 1/2&quot; so it is easy to miss the difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also the automatic adjusters look identical. They are not however and have a left and right side. The left side is left-hand thread, the right side is right-hand thread. Switching either the shoes front to rear or the adjusters left to right can cause a myriad of problems. From continuously being out of adjustment to banging on application, parking brake malfunctions and lock-up problems. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T17:52:06.917" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T17:52:06.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:50:01.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an accord ex and have had the same issue and replaced the relay under the dash and have not had a problem since until recently, so I am now going to try the throttle position sensor or the idler sensor. Hope this can help someone with the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2468" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T15:55:41.723" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T15:55:41.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4814" CreationDate="2012-12-04T01:43:59.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as a note, awd systems I worked on in the past had a limit of 1 inch difference in &lt;em&gt;circumference&lt;/em&gt; of any tire to avoid abnormal wear of the transfer case. And I did see several cases where the chain the case was already stretched with a bad jerking on take off, and new tires fixed the symptom although of course the underlying cause remained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T01:43:59.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4776" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:06:32.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anybody has done work with the evaporative emissions system or fuel tank, they could have swapped some hoses by mistake. Most likely though, just going off this one symptom and little else info, it sounds like a leaking purge valve (on the intake). If you can find it - it's typically a black plastic cone with a rubber house on each end, one vacuum to the intake itself and another back under the car towards the fuel tank, plus one connector, it would be simple to check. Once removed, it should hold vacuum (on there intake side) up to about 15 in mg. Also, you could pinch off the house with some clamps right before fill up and see if the problem is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:06:32.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4420" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:20:56.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you made sure to clear the codes and it came back, then you probably have high resistance or a broken wire. Most sensors on a car use voltage on sensor wire at 5V, and then ground is applied by what ever sensing mechanism and brings the voltage down... So if the sensor wire is broken or the return wire (aka ground) , the voltage can't be dropped and sticks high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind high Resistance could be an actual break in the wire, corrosion, or connector terminals spread open. Need to check it all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:20:56.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:33:09.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't found the answer in the turbo or egr yet, just thinking out loud, I can think of two possibilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boost sensor - the comport uses this to determine waste gate control, and also uses this in many cases to determine egr flow.... If it is reading high, the computer may dump boost early, and assume the egr is not flowing enough. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with this engine, but if a knock sensor had to be removed for turbo replacement, the mounting bolt being loose by merely half a turn can cause all kinds of weird running issues, especially with turbos&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:33:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4837" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:41:26.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I've found that a can/bottle of fuel system cleaner, like say from STP or BG, works great with one caveat - it says to add to one full tank of gas. Add it to a nearly empty tank so that you can drive at least 30 miles or so, and run it as close to empty as possible before adding gas again. The extra bit of concentration makes a big difference, just don't do it very often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressurized treatments, especially when powered by an air hose, can be damaging to a fuel system on a car with a return line to the Tank. I've seen fuel pumps destroyed and gas tanks inflated to the point of rubbing an axle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:41:26.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4837" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:42:16.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the rough idling is due to clogged injectors?  If so, you might want to consider sending the injectors off to be ultrasonically cleaned.  If you really want to do it yourself, get a rebuild kit (new filters / o-rings) and soak them in solvent.  You can even rig up a wire harness to cycle them while feeding them solvent.  Details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/DIYFuelInjectorCleaning.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:42:16.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4864" CreationDate="2012-12-04T04:06:03.207" Score="9" ViewCount="46804" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Camry went in to the shop 2 months ago for a rough idle. We bought the car used in February with 72K miles. We've put on 10K and decided to have a mechanic look it over and tell us what it needed. The shop noted the engine left and right engine mounts were broken and suggested we change them (for $600). I decided I could do this job and save a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yesterday I replaced the three mounts underneath the engine with toyota factory parts from the dealer. Also replaced the dogbone up top. Four mounts replaced. The problem now is that the vibration has changed. The car used to have a pretty steady vibration, most notable at idle in gear. It would also lurch when accelerating from a stop. Now the lurch is gone and the car feels smoother while driving and the lurching from a stop is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I only have vibration when at a stop and the car is in drive. Putting it in reverse, neutral or park and no vibration. I can also kind of feel the same frequency vibration when I turn the car to the left. It makes no sense to me. Tonight I cleaned the throttle body as detailed here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/420994-diy-2azfe-throttle-cleaning-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-a.html&quot;&gt;DIY 2AZFE Throttle Cleaning Gen 5, Gen 5.5, Gen 6&lt;/a&gt; - no change on the idle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the wheels off and jacked it up and got under it and looked everywhere while having my wife put it in drive and hold the brake. Engine is vibrating a good bit, but the mounts look fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out if it has anything to do with the engine mounts now... Did I do something wrong or is something making the engine run rough at low speed? Did I get a defective mount? How can I troubleshoot this? I'm scared to take it to the mechanic and go on an expensive goose chase after already spending $400 on mounts alone. Any suggestions are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2471" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:34:21.887" Title="2009 Toyota Camry 2AZFE idle vibration remains after new motor mounts" Tags="|engine|rough-idle|vibration|camry|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2012-12-04T18:33:53.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is almost certainly one of the door 'pin switches' out of adjustment.&#xA;Try making up a pad of some sort where the door shuts onto the switches.&#xA;I have used stick on wheel weights quite effectively for this!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2472" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T18:33:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-04T18:45:27.743" Score="4" ViewCount="21883" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's car often uses to drive to a nearby grocery store, which is too close to our house (about 2 miles). Some one told me that I should change the engine oil more often because engine is working hard for short drive. I don't know why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="986" LastEditorUserId="986" LastEditDate="2012-12-08T10:52:29.757" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T20:30:52.723" Title="Is short drive trip bad for your engine?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4330" CreationDate="2012-12-04T19:14:24.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a preliminary inspection, I would arm the alarm, then walk around and pull on each door. If it doesn't go off, then you're probably looking at wiring. Bang on the metal of each door and see if you can make the light come on. Tug in the harness under the dash and the lower side kick panels in front of the doors and under the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most common areas for this problem are wires inside the door cutting on the window regulator, and under the front door sill plates in front where wires to the back doors typically run&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T19:14:24.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2012-12-04T19:19:10.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you stick to 3 months or 3000 miles, you should be fine. But short trips don't give the oil time to circulate or heat up and thin out. Contaminants don't get removed as well... Not to mention that the difference in viscosity of hot versus cold oil is significant, and yes, that means the motor works harder to churn through it as well as pump it throughout the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T19:19:10.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4859" CreationDate="2012-12-04T19:26:20.187" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all mounts being careful not to rock the motor, and don't pry or push anything to reach the bolts! (This is where swivels come in handy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T19:26:20.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2012-12-04T20:55:08.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tyres on my tractor are 40 years old, and still work fine! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, they never go over 20 kph… :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T20:55:08.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2012-12-04T21:13:24.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A point I haven't seen mentioned here: diesels will last a lot longer -- often twice the lifetime or more of a gas engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might not seem to matter if you &quot;flip&quot; vehicles every few years, but because of that lifetime, even used diesels tend to have higher resale value -- sometimes MUCH higher! I've seen a Dodge 250 gas pickup for $500, but the Cummins diesel version in the same year will fetch $5,000, because the engine hasn't even hit half its life yet. Some diesels should go a million miles with only a couple expensive maintenance items, typically, rebuilding the injection pump every 300,000 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, the brakes, electrical, and other running gear ages the same on a diesel as with gas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel economy is often &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;dramatically&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; greater. A mid-80's diesel Jetta will get the same highway fuel economy as a new Prius! My 1991 Dodge Cummins gets 20 mpg, while the gas version gets 12. My diesel step-van gets 14, the gas step van I replaced got 7. If, as I do, you believe fuel costs are going to continue up and up and up, this may be a huge consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you think that biofuels are the future, consider that a diesel running on biodiesel will perform within 5% or so as well as it will on petro-diesel. But a gas vehicle running on ethanol will lose about 30% of its power and fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make my own biodiesel from restaurant waste oil -- it's relatively easy, compared to making ethanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also of the opinion that maintenance is cheaper than that of gas engines. Diesels are MUCH simpler than spark-ignition engines: it either isn't getting fuel, or it isn't getting air. The heart of a diesel is the injection pump, and those are pricey to service or replace. So you tend to have low maintenance costs until you need a pump, then a big bill every few hundred thousand or so. But over the lifetime, I'd have to say diesels have lower maintenance costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; question here is, do you consider yourself mainstream, or a bit eccentric? If you like the &quot;edge,&quot; and are trying new and different things out, go for the diesel. But if you cringe and being out of the middle of the bell-curve, gasoline is best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T21:13:24.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4873" CreationDate="2012-12-05T07:45:37.800" Score="0" ViewCount="1819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really like to upgrade my mom's Prius headlights to projectors this Christmas.  It is a 2008 Prius with factory HIDs in reflectors.  The beam pattern is not terrible, but I think that a projector would make her much more comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only &quot;plug and play&quot; Prius projectors are for H11 bulbs - and I do not want to upgrade unless I can use the Philips lights that are installed now.  Is there any sort of adapter or bracket that will let a D4S bulb to work in a projector designed for an H11?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the headlight I am looking at getting for her - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/2008-toyota-prius-headlights/cg-ccfl-halo-headlights-313181.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carid.com/2008-toyota-prius-headlights/cg-ccfl-halo-headlights-313181.html&lt;/a&gt; (but I am getting them from eBay - I just don't want to link to eBay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T09:42:37.627" Title="H11 socket with D4S headlights?" Tags="|headlight|hid|retrofit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4869" CreationDate="2012-12-05T08:36:42.733" Score="5" ViewCount="3500" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a front wheel drive car, the rear end is only used for braking. Is it a good idea (and if not, why) to &quot;reverse&quot; the tires so the tire threads are useful when braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it might increase the gasoline consumption, but as I'm driving on the snow, it would provide a great bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2473" LastEditorUserId="2473" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T08:59:25.287" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T09:13:44.873" Title="Can I put the tires in the opposite direction on the rear-end on my front wheel drive configuration?" Tags="|tires|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2012-12-05T08:58:23.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following answer assumes you've got tires with directional thread (if you flip the tire 180 the pattern will mirror upsidedown). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among other duties, tire threads are responsible for &quot;pumping&quot; the water out from below the wheel when you drive through it. If you reverse the directional tires then the water will be pumped to under the wheel, effectively providing you with aquaplaning. That can badly affect handling irregardless of drive-wheels positions (fwd or rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear end is useful not only for braking, but for keeping vehicle stable on the road, allowing the car to take corners. Think of it, if you remove rear end traction and have only front 2 wheels, the car will spin (see YouTube for &quot;half a car&quot; examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you got bidirectional threads (pattern looks the same if you flip tire 180, see sidewall for rotation direction mark) then you have nothing to worry about, these tires can be installed both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T05:46:17.193" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T05:46:17.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4867" CreationDate="2012-12-05T09:42:37.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the projector design requires a specific bulb shape and type to work effectively (and legally - most countries require the beam pattern to meet regulations!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a D4S in an adapter would not give you the correct pattern, so I would definitely not recommend doing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did look online to see if I could find adapters, just in case someone was offering them, but can't find any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T09:42:37.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4861" CreationDate="2012-12-05T20:45:17.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold Starting Is Bad for All Engines&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;At cold, oil flow is insufficient to properly lubricate the engine because the oil is too thick; in fact, no oil available with today's technology will provide sufficient flow at cold and &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; be able to protect the engine at operating temperature.  The choice, then, is to pick an oil that will perform poorly at start up.  As a result, starting an engine cold is pretty much the worst normal operating procedure you can inflict on it.  Short drives mean more cold starts as a percentage of miles travelled, so there will be relatively more wear on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condensation Does Not Evaporate&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A short trip will not allow sufficient time for condensation in the oil system to burn off, which may result in a build-up of residue on your oil cap and other cooler parts of the system.  This is not harmful, strictly speaking, but it may make it more difficult to diagnose other problems that would result in similar symptoms (e.g., head gasket failures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine May or May not Be Working Harder&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm not convinced that in a modern engine moving oil around, even cold, is going to result in much extra strain on the engine or oil itself, unless we're talking about extreme cold conditions, in which case you must use synthetics because conventional oils will actually stop flowing altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Oil Change Interval to Use&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Since your mileage will, presumably, be low, you will be changing your oil based on time, not distance.  This is important to do because oil thickens over time (even in storage), exacerbating the cold start issue.  Six months is considered standard and it's highly unlikely, under any kind of normal use pattern, you'd want to change it more frequently than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Kind of Oil to Use&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Synthetics thicken less than conventional oils, both when cold and in storage, so a synthetic would be a better choice in your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Synthetics are more expensive and frequent oil changes are expensive.  The reality is, if you don't have a very nice engine that you want to pamper, none of the above is particularly relevant because the short drives won't likely have a measurable impact on your engine's longevity.  So you have to decide if it's worth the cost.  If you're talking about a race-tuned 4A-GE that you want to keep forever, then change the oil every six months with a carefully-selected synthetic (but then, if that's the case, you already know all this).  If you have a 1ZZ-FE that you're not particularly attached to, then I really wouldn't worry about the short trip issue at all.  Either way, the best way to know if you're doing this right, with regard to the oil, is to send in your oil for a used oil analysis, but again, depending on your circumstances, you may not want to bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2479" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:45:17.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2012-12-05T21:49:43.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unidirectional tread tires need to be mounted according to the directional arrow. Hence they are left or right specific. Nondirectional tires can rotate in either direction. If I understand your question correctly you are asking about mounting what would normally be the visible surface facing in. If that is the case the tire tread rotational direction would not change. In most cases this is not a problem. Many drivers prefer the white lettering or whitewall facing in, especially if the brands don't match. Be aware that certain brands aren't directional but perform better when a specific side is mounted facing out. The tread pattern may be asymetrical meaning the left and right side of the tread are different. Some offroad tires have a reinforced sidewall for rock protection that is designed to face out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T21:49:43.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2012-12-05T23:36:06.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that hasn't been mentioned is that a lot of modern diesel vehicles have Dual Mass Flywheels to even out the power delivery. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/dual-mass-flywheels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unfortunately these DMFs seem to be the Achilles heel of many models&lt;/a&gt;, failing at relatively low mileages and being expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T23:36:06.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-06T10:43:06.853" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I started hearing a strange &quot;plastic-like&quot; knocks right after starting the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;EDIT.&lt;/code&gt; Here's the video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4mLn_-nUYA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4mLn_-nUYA&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried it with the engine off (not filmed), and the knocks are still there. Interestingly enough, when I turn the engine on, hear the knock, and turn the engine off, I do hear the knocks and a very faint noise in the background. When the noise stops, the knocks stop as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knocks &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to be coming from the heater but I doubt whether it's truly the heater. The sound goes away within about a minute or so. If the car is warm it's even faster - about 10-15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car - &lt;code&gt;Mercedes C180 Kompressor&lt;/code&gt;. Any ideas what it may be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2481" LastEditorUserId="2481" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T21:34:40.610" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T02:57:20.513" Title="Strange &quot;plastic&quot; knocks near the heater" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4879" CreationDate="2012-12-06T16:26:20.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is highly likely pieces of debris like stems and leaves, nutshells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the good old days if we didn't want to drop the blower motor and clean the housing out we would just put up with it until it moved further up the system and away from the happy bouncy toy we call the blower unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of newer cars (&lt;em&gt;i don't know about yours&lt;/em&gt;) have an access point where a micron filter is installed and you might be able to get a small vacuum hose in there to clean things out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T16:26:20.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4892" CreationDate="2012-12-06T18:14:27.850" Score="-2" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is Mercedes-Benz S600 Coupe of 2000 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpA1x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mercedes-Benz S600 Coupe AMG&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is SL50 that looks the same. What are all the models that are associated with this and look the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T15:09:59.287" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T15:09:59.287" Title="Which Mercedes-Benz models are associated with this photo? There are many, I want to know them all" Tags="|mercedes-benz|identify-this|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-11-10T16:17:35.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4885" CreationDate="2012-12-06T19:57:03.927" Score="24" ViewCount="108772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla. What is the purpose of the large plastic cover that stretches over my valve cover? Does it have a particular function? Are they just for looks? Or are they designed  by the engineers to protect wiring? I believe its called an engine cover. (I bought a car that was missing this piece and I need to know if its critical)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2484" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T09:05:05.253" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T10:16:01.207" Title="What is the purpose of plastic engine covers?" Tags="|engine|drivetrain|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2012-12-06T20:31:52.410" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;OP, Here's an example of a plastic engine cover on my 2001 VW Jetta VR6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h26bk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2001 VW Jetta VR6 Engine Cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for your car in particular (unless you specify what it is), but in my case it has a number of non-critical functions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetics. This looks far nicer than seeing a bunch of exhaust headers (stock ones are never pretty), oil seepage on my valve cover, fuel injection and other wiring, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Routing of spark plug wires. It keeps them organized and away from any hot engine components that would melt or deteriorate them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keeping fluids below the cover. In a car with 150k+ miles, I usually see more oil splatter and coolant being thrown around, up on the hood, etc. If I were to take my cover off, I'm sure I'd find some oil, grease and/or dried coolant under it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I were to remove it, I wouldn't be too concerned except for my longer than necessary spark plug wires that I'd zip tie out of the way. However, it does look nice, so if you care about that sort of thing, buy a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T20:31:52.410" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4841" CreationDate="2012-12-06T22:46:21.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not change the oil yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a very easy task and allows you to become a little more familiar with your new CRV. You save a few dollars, get the pride of working on your own car, and become more knowledgeable about the specifics of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It usually doesn't take more than 30 mins to change your own oil. It's done with nearly all hand tools. I'm not familiar with the height of the CRV off the ground, but you don't normally need to jack up SUVs or Pickups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing simple maintenance will most likely not void your warranty so long as you do it correctly and keep your receipts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2012-12-08T15:54:38.553" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T15:54:38.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2012-12-06T23:41:13.350" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the most common use is noise reduction. As engines got smaller they rev'd higher. The mufflers got moved to the back of the car. No more engine exhaust roar. The result is engine buzz,noise,clacks etc. The cover muffles the injector clicks,belt noise etc. It also just looks cooler to see Vortec, Turbo,SFI .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T23:41:13.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-07T02:02:23.980" Score="5" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year my old tires became ruined (cupped and feathered) because of ancient, horrible shocks and struts. Since then, I've had all new shocks put in, my rear axle was replaced (because toe couldn't be adjusted and they thought it was bent) and I had all new disks installed. And after all my repairs were done, I bought new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sad news is that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Alignment is still out of spec, primarily left rear:&#xA;Toe: 0.29 - should be not more than 0.21&#xA;Camber: -2.2 - should be no less than -1.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to several alignment shops already, all of their machines are showing similar readings,  and they all say that this difference from the spec is negligent and won't cause any improper tire wear - however, is that TRUE? I don't want to ruin my new tires :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Though I like these tires, the ride is a lot smoother and quieter than my old Goodyears, but the vibration is there just like it was with old tires. Below 45 MPH, the car rides like an airplane, but anything over that, and the vibration starts. It is particularly noticeable it seems at 65 MPH an 75 MPH, but there are some speeds/road conditions/accelerations when it doesn't feel that bad. In other cases, it's very noticeable though. It's not loud, but you can feel it in the steering wheel and the seats. What could it be!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If it matters at all, this is a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2487" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T13:40:11.617" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:27:57.517" Title="Had shocks, rear axle, tires replaced - alignment still out of spec and car vibrates?" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|vibration|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-07T02:39:12.160" Score="7" ViewCount="8718" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought new tires recently for my 2002 Nissan Sentra and wanted to make sure that my alignment would not eat them up. Even though effectively my entire suspension/axle system was overhauled recently, some of the specs are still off. Three different shops keep telling me that it's not a huge deal and won't make my tires wear improperly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the report from the last place I went to, other reports show a similar story, though this one shows probably the most &quot;extreme&quot; deviations (though I have a feeling these sensors aren't very accurate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR1wf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alignment report&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried? I am not sure why the front caster is out by a tad bit, seeing as that is a brand new shock there. The rear though, is not adjustable, it is a solid axle and the print outs all say &quot;Manufacturer does not specify rear Toe/Camber adjustments&quot;. I've already had this axle placed with a new Nissan Part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2487" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T18:45:46.930" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:36:55.820" Title="Alignment is out of spec a tad - should I worry?" Tags="|nissan|suspension|struts|alignment|axle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4887" CreationDate="2012-12-07T05:52:19.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I see of any real concern here would be the left rear toe - it's off enough to possibly cause some tire wear.  However, since it can't be adjusted, your best bet is to just rotate the tires regularly (every other oil change is a good rule of thumb) and keep an eye out for wear.  You didn't say which Nissan you're driving, but I'm assuming it's a Sentra/Versa or other smaller model, which means likely you won't see any severe tire wear on the left rear anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2489" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T05:52:19.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4886" CreationDate="2012-12-07T09:26:47.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vibration at speed is very unlikely to be the alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting your tires balanced. The most likely cause is that one is slightly out - perhaps a tire-weight fell off, or the wrong weight was put on last time you changed tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad alignment will eat your tyres faster than good alignment, but if all the shops you have been to say it isn't going to be an issue, I'd be tempted to believe them: it's their job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3901/uneven-rotation-sounds-when-my-car-gets-to-50-60-mph&quot;&gt;this previous question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:27:57.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4887" CreationDate="2012-12-07T12:42:41.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The combination of that much camber plus that much toe will cause it to wear more quickly, but there's not much you can do about it without getting extreme in swapping parts.  Keep rotating those tires so you don't burn out just the one and don't worry about it too much as I expect it would cost a lot more money to fix than you'll spend in extra tire costs.  That's the factory rear toe setting for my RWD car that rides on real sticky performance tires that can't be rotated.  I get around 20,000 miles out of them.  I expect you'll do a LOT better AND you can rotate them...  As far as the caster, that has minimal impact on wear in general, and yours just barely out of spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T16:15:37.053" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T16:15:37.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5783" CreationDate="2012-12-07T14:42:46.370" Score="3" ViewCount="10543" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2005 Cavalier, the left turn signal indicator is permanently lit when the headlights are on and flashes at about double speed when the turn signal is actually on.  The actual signal lights function normally though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where to start troubleshooting this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T01:36:25.707" Title="Left signal light indicator stuck on" Tags="|chevrolet|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4881" CreationDate="2012-12-07T15:23:56.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a Mercedes Benz C140 body, the coupe-version of the S-class w140 limo. For a list of the models, i.e different engines, that was made; take a look here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W140&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W140&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T15:23:56.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2012-12-07T16:23:16.113" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Jetta 1.8T. The factory service manual produced by Bentley (for Volkswagen) specifically calls this component the &lt;code&gt;upper sound absorber panel&lt;/code&gt;. To an extent, these are eye candy, but their primary function is for sound dampening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I know many people remove them when they are displaying aftermarket components, or keep their valve cover looking immaculate. I had a valve cover gasket leak up until recently, so my sound absorber is best left in place :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T16:23:16.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4891" CreationDate="2012-12-07T16:31:35.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your signal is flashing at double speed, the cause may be as simple as a burnt out bulb. The relays expect a certain amount of load, and if only half of that load is present, they'll cycle twice as quickly. Check if either the front or rear bulb is blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T16:31:35.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4891" CreationDate="2012-12-07T21:38:15.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your earth/grounding points for the lights. Lights illuminating when they're not supposed to is a classic symptom of a bad earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T21:38:15.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-07T23:47:52.167" Score="2" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bmw k1200s motorcycle. You suppose to fill in the coolant using vacuum. I usually fill it in at home, drive to a dealer and let them deal with the vacuum stuff. it didn't work out this time. right before the dealer, a hose to the radiator blew up and the coolant vapor started to come out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all good but there was some blue gel. I think that might be because coolant overheated and started to become gel. is that possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;another option is that because of high temperature, the hoses started to melt. the one that blew is deformed. and some rubber from the hoses mixed with coolant and became gel-like substance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any ideas what happened or what should I do to make sure everything is alright? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2486" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T13:36:04.570" Title="What happens when under-filled coolant overheats?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-08T03:26:01.140" Score="4" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Honda Accord squeaks when I start it in the morning.  I replaced the belt and it still squeaks. It is getting worst. When I turn the stearing on Idle it is now squeaking.&#xA;Also on Idle when I press the Accelarator the squeaking gets louder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2492" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T02:02:56.980" Title="engine squeak when I start it in the morning." Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2012-12-08T20:33:42.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the tensioner it bad, that's the spring loaded pulley you released to change the belt with. They get weak over time and don't hold the belt as tightly anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T20:33:42.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4891" CreationDate="2012-12-08T21:02:18.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two filaments inside a turn signal bulb. One of them is dim for the park lights, the other is bright for the turn signal.  The bright filament can break on one end and land on the dim filament. Anytime the parking lights are on it makes both filaments light. The turn signal can still function depending on where the break in the filament is. This would also change the resistance in the bulb and cause the turn signal to flash faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the picture below, if the top filament was to break loose from one end it could land across the other filament causing the problem you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to check is the bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sqcre.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2012-12-08T21:08:39.023" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T21:08:39.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4905" CreationDate="2012-12-09T03:52:27.060" Score="0" ViewCount="1986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2003 Kia Sedona 2.5 liter AT in good condition. I've replaced some of the old parts with new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both highway and city fuel consumption is bad compared to other cars with same engine displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what makes the fuel economy so bad? Is it caused by dirty injectors? Bad ignition timing? Wrongly calculated flywheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2372" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T16:11:33.040" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T16:11:33.040" Title="What would cause a 2003 Kia Sedona to have bad fuel economy?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|kia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4903" CreationDate="2012-12-09T06:35:14.657" Score="4" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use the engine brake on an F650 ,which has a caterpillar engine. It recently blew up and I've been told that this is the cause....is this even plausible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2494" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T13:08:32.697" Title="can using an engine brake cause the engine to blow up?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4902" CreationDate="2012-12-09T13:08:32.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is possible - but without much more information it wouldn't be possible to state that that is what happened in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were coasting at high speed, with the engine idling, if you suddenly let out the clutch to use engine braking, the transmission will drive the engine so the loads aren't the same as when you are accelerating. The engine &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; cope, but a possible failure mode is that the timing belt could slip/snap/jump and if that happens, your engine could fail catastrophically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, timing belt failure can happen under acceleration too, but the only difference here  is the sudden high load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T13:08:32.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-09T14:11:56.863" Score="13" ViewCount="47316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get a vibration at high speeds (50+), can feel it particularly in the steering wheel, front seats, dashboard. I have been trying to figure out what's going on, keeping in mind that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All 4 shocks replaced in April&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had a side swipe accident, they replaced rear axle, front right&#xA;strut and one of the rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got brand new primacy mxv4 tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this is a 2002 nissan sentra with aluminum wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vibration intensity with time was like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the accident: light vibration (I thought from &quot;cupped&quot; tires because of previous struts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the accident (before and after the strut and axle replacement): harder vibration, not much worse, but I thought it seemed more noticeable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After new tires: harder vibration yet again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been to 4 different shops to try to rebalance my tires, check my suspension, everyone keeps on telling me different things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure at this point what this is, or how to diagnose it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to distinguish between bent wheels, bad tires, bent CV shafts, bent struts, loose/worn steering arms, bad bushings, bad bearings...ahh, so MANY things!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2487" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T13:01:21.023" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T17:32:44.437" Title="How to diagnose high speed vibration?" Tags="|tires|suspension|vibration|drivetrain|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4901" CreationDate="2012-12-09T16:28:53.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors which could influence your fuel consumption, namely, the design of the car itself - not much you can do about it. Are you getting what the EPA label said you would be getting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, here are some things that will improve your fuel economy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use full synthetic oil and change at regular 5k mile intervals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain correct tire pressure (look at the label inside the door jamb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't replaced your fuel filter yet since 2003 - time to do that now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy some seafoam (or STP alternative) before you change your oil and add the full bottle to the crankcase and drive at least 50 miles with the seafoam in there - this will clean your engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After each oil change, add some seafoam (or alternative) to your gas to clean the fuel injectors. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your alignment/tires. Bad alignment can cause your car to drag (also bad for the tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And lastly - drive smoothly, don't accelerate quickly, avoid braking and speeding up. Take it easy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2487" LastEditorUserId="2155" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T12:02:47.803" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T12:02:47.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-09T23:48:16.203" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really love the look and design of the Thruxton and am considering getting one. I use my current motorbike every day, from getting to work and back, to shopping, to long trips. Its a bullet proof little Honda that's never given me any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if a Thruxton could put up with the constant use (maybe average of 20klms of travel per day in heavy traffic). Has anyone used one of these as a daily rider? If so was it ok to use? What issues did you encounter? Would you recommend the bike for this kind of use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T23:53:18.220" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T20:22:45.673" Title="Would a Triumph Thruxton be suitable for everyday use?" Tags="|maintenance|motorcycle|wear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-12-20T22:28:55.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4901" CreationDate="2012-12-10T01:05:29.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't mentioned how many miles per gallon you are getting but several things come to mind. How are you calculating milage? Fill the tank until the pump shuts off. Drive until 1/4 or less remains. Refill at the same station using the same pump if possible. Refill until the pump shuts off.Divide mileage by gallons used. Things that will cause a drastic drop in mileage.  A brake that is dragging or not fully releasing. An automatic trans not shifting into overdrive. The speedometer may not be accurate so that you are actually going farther than you think. A fuel leak, although this should be obvious. Theft of your fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T01:05:29.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4887" CreationDate="2012-12-10T01:11:21.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found an interesting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allsentra.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;amp;t=6105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;http://allsentra.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;allsentra.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Some choice bits from one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allsentra.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&amp;amp;t=6105#p99157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;posts&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many Nissan Sentra rear axles are mismanufactured with a huge toe in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nissan actively discourages/forbids delearships to put in shims to&#xA;  correct the rear alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specific Nissan Sentra calibrated shims can be obtained from rockauto&#xA;  or NAPA. Look under suspension parts. Shims are about $13 each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is significant negative camber by specification on the rear so&#xA;  tires should be rotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Changing the rear axle does not fix the problem and the dealer will&#xA;  refuse to do further work to fix the problem. It becomes the&#xA;  customer's problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T01:11:21.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2012-12-10T01:54:38.527" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be very difficult to isolate if it is from the tires or the drive line.. but most of the time, it is the tires. Looking at the tires with the naked eye when there is no load on the tire is not very telling though. The best thing is to find a shop with a Hunter DSP 9000 or similar machine that measures so called road force. This will measure the tire under load, and can also be used to check rim out of round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealers are probably your best bet. Road force and rim measurements can be quite a bit more expensive than normal balance, but you should be able to do it as supplemental to the insurance claim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover it is not unusual for brand new tires to have this problem. If it is not the tires or the rim, you could start looking at the hub and driveshaft. If the driveshaft is bent, you can see it with the wheels turning in the air. The hub needs to be measured with a dial indicator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vibrations can be notoriously hard to diagnose. It really does amount to eliminating possibilities until you are left with the problem. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastEditorUserId="2469" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T12:27:34.207" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T12:27:34.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4891" CreationDate="2012-12-10T02:01:10.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also seen it from putting the wrong bulb in the socket - often done by another shop or parts store even. Of you've had one replaced, pull out the bulb and look at the bottom. Make sure there are the same number of 'nipples' on the bottom of the bulb as there are in the bottom of the socket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i worked as a mechanic, it was a very common problem i saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T02:01:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2012-12-10T02:02:56.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a pulley stopping too. An idler locking up from a bad bearing, or an accessory like steering pump or ac compressor are common as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T02:02:56.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4913" CreationDate="2012-12-10T13:12:44.713" Score="3" ViewCount="3101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have received an error code from my Jetta 2002:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;16525 - P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Malfunction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone suggest, how serious is the problem? Does it have to be fixed asap or it can wait a few weeks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T13:27:57.320" Title="VW Jetta 2002: O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction; how serious is this?" Tags="|vw|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2012-12-10T13:27:57.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first O2 sensor is the one that the ECU uses to set the fuel-air mixture. If you had a problem with your first O2 sensor, the car would not run at its best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This error is on the second O2 sensor, sometimes called the &quot;tattletail&quot; sensor. On your Jetta, the second sensor is basically responsible only for turning on the &quot;check engine&quot; light if the catalytic converter isn't doing a good job of scrubbing your exhaust gasses. In other words, it's just checking on the effectiveness of your emissions controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already gotten a check engine light, you may soon get one. The car will run fine with this condition, but you won't pass an inspection if the check engine light is on. Otherwise, no problem waiting a few weeks to replace the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T13:27:57.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2012-12-10T13:35:58.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm speculating that the under-filled condition resulted in the water pump being unable to move coolant through the radiator (maybe the water pump itself wasn't getting coolant, maybe the level was so low that it couldn't complete the circuit through the radiator and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why you blew a hose is a bit of a mystery...if you were making too much pressure, the fill cap should have relieved this excess pressure. Maybe you had a loose clamp? A defective pressure-relief cap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the &quot;gel,&quot; sounds like a system flush is in order before you (or the dealer) refill the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T13:35:58.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4917" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:03:05.083" Score="9" ViewCount="11496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to jump start my car recently, and couldn't get the horn to turn off for a long time. I'm still not sure what actually caused it to stop. The horn sounded on and off continuously from the moment I finished hooking up the cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time I jump start my car, what should I do to make sure the horn doesn't sound, or turn it off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2498" LastEditorUserId="2498" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T04:00:05.397" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T18:51:48.380" Title="Why does my 2013 Honda Fit's horn sound when I am jump starting my car?" Tags="|honda|jump-start|alarm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:03:05.083" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car thinks it is being stolen - jump starting a car looks a lot like hot-wiring a car to the computer. You need to do something that tells your car &quot;it's OK, I own you&quot;. You can do this right after hooking up the cables, but before starting the engine, to minimize the annoyance to your neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a remote door key, lock and unlock the doors with the remote, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlock the driver side door with the key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2498" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T00:03:05.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4604" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:56:33.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a faulty windshield washer pump motor changed in my Yaris once. This one is not so easy to access. The mechanic replaced it via front right wheel area after removing front guard. He said this way is better other wise he'll have to remove front bumper, headlight then washer water tank to get to motor. Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T00:56:33.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4811" CreationDate="2012-12-11T09:22:22.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the shatter panel on the window, can you see an area of stress? Do all the windows break the same way? The weather might not play a part, if say you have something pressing or inadequately putting abrupt pressure on the glass. I have seen it where a screw was placing pin point pressure, and breaking windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T09:22:22.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4558" CreationDate="2012-12-11T09:25:00.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using the correct spark plugs, or aftermarket? OEM makes a huge difference in certain vehicle brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T09:25:00.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4906" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:22:45.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Thruxton is gorgeous, it's a pure joy to ride and will put a huge smile on your face. A few things to keep in mind however, it's designed to be a cafe racer, look at how aggressive that riding position is. I'm not sure about Australia, but in the states, replacement parts for British bikes are much harder to come by than Honda parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T20:22:45.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:41:00.593" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a newish (~2009) Toyota Tacoma that apparently can short the battery when he turns the key from off to start too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By short I mean, when fully charged the truck will click once like it's dead and then need a boost. I think this has lead to the quick deaths of multiple batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other info needed? If not, does anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T16:40:45.380" Title="Battery shorts when key is turned quickly" Tags="|toyota|battery|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:43:22.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Battery Illustration&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvN26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvN26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automotive battery is a type of rechargeable battery that supplies electric energy to an automobile. Usually this refers to an SLI battery (starting, lighting, ignition) to power the starter motor, the lights, and the ignition system of a vehicle’s engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive SLI batteries are usually lead-acid type, and are made of six galvanic cells in series to provide a 12 volt system. Each cell provides 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volt at full charge. Heavy vehicles such as highway trucks or tractors, often equipped with diesel engines, may have two batteries in series for a 24 volt system, or may have parallel strings of batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead-acid batteries are made up of plates of lead and separate plates of lead dioxide, which are submerged into an electrolyte solution of about 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water. This causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors to produce electricity. As the battery discharges, the acid of the electrolyte reacts with the materials of the plates, changing their surface to lead sulfate. When the battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed: the lead sulfate reforms into lead dioxide and lead. With the plates restored to their original condition, the process may now be repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery recycling of automotive batteries reduces the need for resources required for manufacture of new batteries, diverts toxic lead from landfills, and prevents risk of improper disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:17:47.093" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:17:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:43:22.510" Score="0" Body="A rechargeable device most often made of lead plates covered in an electrolyte and protected by a plastic shell which supplies consistent electrical energy to a motor vehicle. Often referred to as an SLI battery (starting, lighting, ignition). Powers starter motor, lights, and ignition systems of a motor vehicle." OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T10:55:44.867" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T10:55:44.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:45:18.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_%28lock%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A key is an instrument that is used to operate a lock. A typical key is a small piece of metal consisting of two parts: the blade, which slides into the keyway of the lock and distinguishes between different keys, and the bow, which is left protruding so that torque can be applied by the user. A key is usually intended to operate one specific lock or a small number of locks that are keyed alike, so each lock requires a unique key. The key serves as a security token for access to the locked area; only persons having the correct key can open the lock and gain access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keys provide an inexpensive, though imperfect, method of access control for access to physical properties like buildings and vehicles. As such, keys are an essential feature of modern living in the developed world, and are common around the globe. It is common for people to carry the set of keys they need for their daily activities around with them, often linked by a keyring adorned by trinkets usually known as a keychain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="602" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T01:32:32.383" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T01:32:32.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:45:18.610" Score="0" Body="A key is an instrument that is used to operate a lock. A key is usually intended to operate one specific lock or a small number of locks that are keyed alike, so each lock requires a unique key. The key serves as a security token for access to the locked area; only persons having the correct key can open the lock and gain access." OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="602" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T01:32:38.777" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T01:32:38.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:49:24.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You answered your own question. You've got a short. Until you find and fix the short you're going to keep ruining batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Turning the key in any fashion allows the current from the battery to travel throughout the car ( turning the key connects the circuit ) and reach the short that's killing batteries. If the speed at which you turn the key really does make a difference, then it's possible the short is located in the ignition switch itself. But like mac, I too am skeptical that turning the key fast or slow is significant, without more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T21:43:08.670" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T21:43:08.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T02:04:07.987" Score="4" ViewCount="6783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new MK3 Ford Focus (it's an ST, but I don't think that matters).  I know it has the four jack points in the corners inside the wheels (underneath door sills) but I don't know/can't find where the other jack points are.  I assume that there are spots on the front/rear subframes to jack the car up, but I'm not experienced enough to pick them out from the bottom of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have an MK3 Focus and know where the jack points are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T17:05:06.450" Title="MK3 Ford Focus Jack Points" Tags="|focus|jack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4827" CreationDate="2012-12-12T02:41:50.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have at least one halfshaft available, you can turn one side. If the other side (might need someone to help you look) goes the same way, it's at least a limited-slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T02:41:50.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2012-12-12T02:47:17.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many amplifiers have low-level inputs using RCA style connections. You can use one of those with a RCA to 1/8&quot; stereo jack for your phone. Switching it could be accomplished through a switch like you mentioned or hopefully there's an ignition-only wire that can be used on the amplifier. They typically have an ignition input just used to switch the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T02:47:17.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T11:51:58.637" Score="6" ViewCount="15118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of issues which I hope are all related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a petrol Ford Focus 2000 1.8. Seems to be listed as LX, but the engine is Zetec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stationary, the idle is quite jumpy, and the car seems to rattle a little - likely because the idle is too low. It's improved slightly over the past couple of days (the pin now sticks around the 750RPM mark), but it's still not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when driving, if I come up to a red light, disengage the clutch and brake, the revs go up to about 2000RPM, and then down to about 600, and are jumpy again. Twice today in this scenario, the car stalled and was unable to keep idling. When the idle is low, the dashboard lights also flicker a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a fair amount of white smoke from the exhaust. I've only driven about 8 miles in one go since these problems have occured, and the outside temp has been no more than 4C, so it's possible that it's just steam? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine management light is on. I've checked the dashboard error codes, and it comes back with the low battery voltage error. I haven't yet had chance to check out the true engine error codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the issue(s) could be here? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I've just had the battery tested and that came back perfectly fine. The tester was unable to read the engine management codes, but he was confident that there's a misfire which is causing the symptoms I'm having, but exactly what is causing the misfire would come up when reading the codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Okay, I've had the codes read and it came up with P0171 (System Too Lean(Bank 1)). I also had the coolant checked and they said that there wasn't any in there...this doesn't sound good...any advice at this point? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Well...the rough idle, stalling and P0171 problem has been fixed! There was a small vacuum leak which was tapped up. BUT, they also did a block test and pressure test at the same time. The pressure test came up fine, but the block test confirmed that there's a small leak from the head gasket. Quoted around £700 to fix, the cars value is around...oh...£700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your suggestions, all. If you're reading this with similar symptoms, I hope it's not the same result!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2502" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T23:54:39.477" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T01:49:35.497" Title="2000 Ford Focus, low idle, stalling at lights, white smoke from exhaust - P0171 Code - problem?" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|zetec|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4931" CreationDate="2012-12-12T12:17:41.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be many things, but I'd start with what it gives you. Have the alternator checked. It may not be putting out enough to keep the car powered at idle, slowly draining the battery, causing the idle to lower do to low sparking ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a wild stab in the dark, probably wrong. It could also be other problems that didn't trigger a code causing a low idle, which causes low alternator output, which may have then caused the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T12:17:41.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4931" CreationDate="2012-12-12T18:22:34.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The factory plugs should be good for 100,000 miles / 160,000 km or so.  They're ridiculously easy to change on a Zetec.  If you can handle a screwdriver and a socket wrench, you can check / change them yourself.  They're easily accessible from the top of the engine through holes in the valve cover.  The plug wires are also easy to inspect, just keep track of which connector they should plug into on the coil pack and number them yourself if they don't have a number molded into them.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth checking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idle_air_control_actuator.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;idle air control valve&lt;/a&gt;.  It should be on the driver side of the intake manifold, under the throttle body.  Depending on what's in the way, it might be easier to access from under the vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing belt can cause all sorts of trouble, it's due before 100,000 miles (it will actually fail around that point if it's not been changed) but I don't remember the specific number.  If you pull a code for the cam position sensor, I'd actually suspect the timing belt first unless it's nowhere near needing replacement.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the white smoke, could be steam, or you could be burning coolant.  Keep an eye on your coolant levels.  If you're loosing coolant, you're burning it or leaking it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, if your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_airflow_sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MAF&lt;/a&gt; sensor has never been cleaned, it might be worth picking up a can of cleaner specifically for MAF sensors.  It's in the intake air path on the driver side, between the air box near the battery and the intake manifold.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all the generic Zetec tune up advice I've got.  Report back with your mileage and have those codes pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that P0171 before on a Zetec.  I'd guess that vacuum leak was on the hose going into the valve cover.  As for the coolant leak, that sucks, but before you write the vehicle off, consider that the engine has been known to run for 250,000 miles without a rebuild (well, the 2.0L on the CDW27/Contour/Mystique/Mondeo anyway).  Also, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=204668&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread.  The owner has a 1.8L Zetec in a Ford Escort with a shop diagnosed head gasket leak.  He tore the motor apart himself and couldn't find it.  You might have a very small leak.  It might be worth driving the vehicle for a while and checking the coolant loss rate (keep an eye on the level in the overflow tank in the engine bay, note the max and min markers).  You might not have burned all the missing coolant, the thermostat housing (plastic box on the front driver side of the engine with a hose going into it) is a known weak point for leaks.  If you're adding coolant, make sure to use the correct (50/50) mix of coolant and water.  Given your year, you should have conventional green antifreeze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T17:25:14.793" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T17:25:14.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T22:26:24.843" Score="8" ViewCount="3737" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a silly move during an engine overhaul, I dropped my Honda Rebel's fuel tank and put a dent in the top side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to pull this dent out? I've heard there is a method using heat and ice to cause the metal to contract back into its original position, but the only time I've ever seen it used it was a total failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of what I'm working with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0t7Or.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:09:07.710" Title="How might I fix a dent in a Honda Rebel fuel tank?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|body-work|dent|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T23:42:37.590" Score="-1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car which it's title and plates are registered in Wisconsin.  The title is in the name of name of Family member but is signed over to me.  I would like to register the car[ in my name] in Illinois.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_and_registration/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Illinois Cyber Drive Vehicle Services&lt;/a&gt; page, and would normally think I'd need to go through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_and_registration/apply.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apply for Registration and Title&lt;/a&gt; content, but the plates and title are from out of state and I am unsure of how to proceed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_and_registration/pert.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Title and Registration&lt;/a&gt; page briefly mentions &quot;out-of-state&quot; but none of the mentions seem to pertain to acquiring a car from out of state through a &lt;em&gt;private&lt;/em&gt; transaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone point me to information on how to transfer an out of state title to Illinois, registering the car, and acquiring Illinois Plates (all of which I would think should be able to be accomplished in a single step) for a vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T04:13:25.230" Title="Register Car in Illinois and Get Plates" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-28T12:11:18.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T00:21:25.820" Score="0" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prius, 08, smart key.&#xA;Dead on Sunday am --- nothing works. Put trickle on the underhood postive and neg to body bolt. Got enough juice to open rear hatch (and dome light comes on )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced with toyota battery. Neg cable taken off first, then pushed up out of the way behind carpet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still dead. Checked both batteries at Autozone. 94 and 100% --- wasn't battery in the first place. Checked clear window fusible link on top of pos post --- still good. Can get locks and lights to work with trickle charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T20:06:15.287" Title="08 Prius, New battery. Still dead" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2012-12-13T00:35:22.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right side looks like it has a small crease. You may be able to get it to look better but I don't think it will be perfect without some filling and painting. You can try covering the filler opening with some heavyduty plastic and installing the gascap. Hook the fuel outlet up to an air compressor. Gradually increase the pressure to see if the dent will pop out. I wouldn't let the pressure go any higher 35-40 psi. I am not sure what the burst pressure rating of a gas tank is, but I wouldn't go much higher. I know that some bodyshops have a paintless dent remover. A short stem is glued to the paint and a dent puller attaches to the stem. The glue is heated and the stem removed when it is finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T00:35:22.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4936" CreationDate="2012-12-13T03:39:22.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the ignition module, shorts in wires, including the battery cables, clean the battery connectors, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you eliminated the battery itself as the issue.  The next step is to check everything between the ignition, battery, and starter.  I just had a starter go out all of a sudden and all I could get was one tiny click when I turned the key.  The battery was new, so I knew that wasn't it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery issues apparently are common on this car.  I've seen some posts with the battery going out totally, for good, from the light on the trunk latch not working right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with the new hybrids, but here are three links with a list of items that other people did to try and fix this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://priuschat.com/threads/good-battery-wont-start.54150/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/what-to-do-when-your-hybrid-cars-battery-dies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/56ya5-toyota-prius-prius-won-t-start-changed-12-battery.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading through these, I would guess this is a blown battery fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T20:06:15.287" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T20:06:15.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2012-12-13T17:03:32.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given you have such easy access to the inside of the tank, you might try pushing the dent out from the inside with a lever-type tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCaI8dIWGas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; of one such tool and some of the technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T17:03:32.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T17:34:47.677" Score="5" ViewCount="26277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Honda Accord.  All 4 brakes were recently serviced so I don't think this is related to pads or rotors needing attention.  When I first start driving, when I hit the brakes, there is a distinct gurgling / bubbling sound that comes from the brakes.  After hitting the brakes a few times, this goes away, and doesn't return until the car is idle for awhile again.  The brakes seem to be performing fine, and there is no &quot;feel&quot; of grinding or anything - it definitely seems liquidy.  Reading a bit online, this may be related to cold weather, and I do live in New England so it is getting cold here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this noise?  Is this normal or does something need servicing?  Obviously I could bring it into my mechanic, but I don't want to do so if this is a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2507" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T04:04:54.793" Title="Honda Accord bubbling / gurgling sound when braking first few times" Tags="|honda|brakes|accord|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T20:01:22.807" Score="5" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since replacing all of the brake pads and passenger front rotor on my 2008 Chrysler Sebring convertible, the pads have been chafing and making a non-stop chirping sound while driving. There is a louder chirp from the front pads when I apply the brakes. This is a seasonal car located in South Florida, a few blocks from the ocean. I understand ocean air car produce a thin layer of rust on the rotors. I only drive about 3,000 miles a year with this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the sound caused by this thin layer of rust - although it never goes away even after driving? Could the constant chafing of the pads prematurely damage the rotors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The well-known, national tire company who did the brake work a few months ago, now claims all of the rotors need to be replaced - another $500 repair to the $400 I spent less than 700 miles ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2508" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T14:39:53.783" Title="Can chafing brake pads damage rotors?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4941" CreationDate="2012-12-13T22:43:57.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons for squeaky brakes. The usual cause, is whoever replaced your brake pads used pads that are a slightly different material than the original pads. A fairly reliable way to prevent this is to use pads recommended by Chrysler. It could also be the rotors, it's never a bad idea to replace the rotors the same time as the pads if you want your brakes to operate reliably and quietly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the company that you paid to work on your brakes won't even warranty the work they did a few months ago, for Pete's sake, find a better mechanic. Don't waste your time and money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't ever say &quot;well-known national tire company.&quot; If it's a horrible company, let us know which company it is so that we don't suffer from their terrible customer service either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T22:43:57.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4940" CreationDate="2012-12-14T04:09:09.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoever serviced your brakes probably tried to 'bleed' them, and if you hear gurgling I think it was done wrong. Now there's air in your brake system, and it's readily apparent the first few times you use your brakes each day as the air is pushed through the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, you need to have your brake bled properly. If you're comfortable with it, it's pretty darn easy to do as long as you're careful and thorough and you understand that if you screw up you won't have any brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could also take it back to the mechanic and say they need to bleed the brakes again, though personally I wouldn't trust an auto mechanic that doesn't take care to bleed brakes properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T04:09:09.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4935" CreationDate="2012-12-14T04:13:25.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prepare all of the paperwork listed on this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.org/il-illinois/car-registration.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dmv.org/il-illinois/car-registration.php&lt;/a&gt; and travel to an SOS office where they'll issue you your plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T04:13:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4941" CreationDate="2012-12-14T14:39:53.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that your new pads haven't fully &quot;bedded in&quot;, or mated with the rotors, and/or that these new pads don't do as effective a job of cleaning the rust off of the rotors in your normal driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to try in situations like this before you spend any additional money is to find a quiet back road, and do a number of repeated hard stops from speed (40-55mph). When the car has slowed to a near stop, accelerate back up to speed and stop hard again. Repeat until you notice the car has reduced stopping power--your brakes are now extremely hot, and can't stop the car as effectively (this is called brake fade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal here is to bed in the brake pads and clean off the rotors. You may find that the noise is reduced after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars with big fat brakes (like high performance cars) can go through rotors quickly if driven too gently. The rust doesn't get cleaned off of the rotors, and the rust builds up unevenly, causing noise and pulsation in the brake pedal. Even though the rotors haven't &quot;worn&quot;, they become unusable from this unevenness. Frustrating and expensive, but also avoidable with the occasional brake workout as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that the hard stopping exercise helps the issue, you may find that you have to repeat this procedure periodically if the problem comes back.  Then maybe try different brake pads next time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T14:39:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4950" CreationDate="2012-12-15T00:38:24.167" Score="5" ViewCount="15901" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my last oil change, the technician noted some oil around top and side of the engine block and said there is a small leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to find where it is coming from is doing the whole dye test, that's hundreds of dollars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I do that, with so many Taurus sold in the U.S. - &lt;strong&gt;is there a common area to look at where these engine may be leaking from ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been adding a quart every month and a half or so to keep it level and haven't really noticed anything on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a gen 3, 2004, Duratec 24V, 4-door, SES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibility: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6894/oil-pan-threads-stripped&quot;&gt;Oil pan threads stripped?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T02:49:05.593" Title="Ford Taurus common oil leak area?" Tags="|engine|ford|oil-change|oil-leak|taurus|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2012-12-15T18:57:28.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the problem is pretty common with 3.5L Impalas. For some reason these engines lose coolant. Some blame is placed on head gaskets, some blame Dex-Cool. What ever the cause, refilling via the overflow jug can leave an air pocket in the cooling system. The cure is to fill via the pressure cap right to the top. Recheck the level after several heat/cool cycles. Then never let the overflow jug get empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T22:37:16.903" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T22:37:16.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4936" CreationDate="2012-12-15T22:23:18.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get things to work with the charger and not the battery then the battery connections are suspect. Clean them as well as the battery with a terminal brush. There is also the possibility of the 12 volt positive or negative cable that runs from the battery to the engine compartment. You mention hooking the charger to the positive under the hood, what happens when you hook the charger directly to the battery terminal connectors in the trunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T22:23:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4946" CreationDate="2012-12-15T22:44:03.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if there is a &quot;common area&quot; of oil leaks it wouldn't make sense to change a part based on the most common failure. You need to find out where you car is leaking so you don't make a needless repair that could easily cost you hundreds of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get a second estimate on locating the oil leak. Dye tests don't cost hundreds of dollars. The &quot;Dye test&quot; consists of adding 1/2 oz of dye (About $3 cost) and using an ultraviolet light to locate the leak. A normal charge for this should be 0.5 - 1.0 hours labor max, plus maybe $10 for the dye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need the dye test to identify the location of major leaks. It's difficult to tell where it's coming from because with a major leak the engine is covered with oil. Adding the dye and watching with an ultraviolet light to see where the dye starts to leak out will identify the source of the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T22:44:03.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4953" CreationDate="2012-12-16T05:20:06.837" Score="5" ViewCount="23553" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I know almost nothing about cars. I can fill them up with gas and drive them. That's about it. This car is a '99 Subaru Outback, automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I last took my car in for an oil change, the mechanic said that I was leaking transmission fluid and that he'd clamped it and refilled it. After the oil change, I noticed a burning oil smell after the car had been running for a while. I assumed that some of the leaking transmission fluid got on the engine and was burning off. Annoying, but probably not a problem, or so I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also didn't notice any puddles under where I parked my car, further causing me to believe that I wasn't leaking anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a few weeks ago. I don't drive very much, though, so not many miles ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I drove about 15 miles to pick someone up and go to an event. Everything seemed fine, except the burning smell, but even the burning smell wasn't as bad as it usually was. I also got the car washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car sat in the parking lot for around 9 hours. When I went to take my friend home, I noted that the car seemed to be a bit sluggish. In particular, after a stop, it would go very slowly and the engine would rev very high before it would go from first to second. After dropping my friend off, it just got worse and worse. Before long, it was taking a while to change between every gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I finally get home, there's a sharp turn, a relatively steep hill up, and a relatively steep hill down. Because of the turn, I needed to slow down, and I only made it half way up the hill before my car wouldn't move any more. I pushed the engine pretty hard, getting it up to 5 or 6k on the tachometer, and nothing. Eventually I had the bright idea to put it in first gear manually, and I was able to get it moving again up the hill and eventually to my parking space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... That's where I am now. So one big problem here is I don't know that I'll even be able to get the car to a mechanic, because just to leave my place I need to go up and down a hill. Based on the fact that the mechanic who changed my oil told me I was leaking transmission fluid, I'm assuming that he didn't actually fix the problem as he claimed he had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that I can refill the transmission fluid, to at least get the car into a state where I can get it to a mechanic without a tow truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm doing a whole lot of assuming here, hence why I'm asking for advice. If it does turn out that refilling the transmission fluid is the best course of action, is there anything special I need to know about doing that? Like I said, I know pretty much nothing about cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T15:58:38.917" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:23:10.917" Title="Burning smell, leak, losing power. Maybe transmission related" Tags="|transmission|leak|smell|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2012-12-16T07:13:56.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can figure out how to check your transmission fluid level and top it off if it needs it, do so. It may already be too late to be able to drive it to a mechanic, that's a risk you'll need to assess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T07:13:56.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2012-12-16T09:52:52.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actually really difficult to top this up yourself - the easiest route is in through the transmission dipstick, so you'll need a long funnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, find the dipstick - it will be inwards and down below the fuel filter (your manual should show you where) - it will have a yellow circle at the end, for your finger to pull it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then see how full the dipstick indicates your transmission fluid level - if it is fine, leave it alone - you may have something else wrong with your car, and should get it checked out at a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is low, you can start to pour. Don't put too much in at first, until you have a good estimate of how full it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an American site I learned that the Subaru Outback 4EAT transmission requires 9.8 quarts of ATF, but it is tricky to equate that with an indicator level on a dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T09:52:52.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-16T14:52:45.533" Score="5" ViewCount="93964" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel filler flap on my 09 VW Golf estate (diesel) will not unlock. I have tried locking and unlocking the car which should relase the filler flap but it remains locked. The owner's manual says there is no method of manual relase on this model. Can anyone suggest how I can get it open?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2514" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T16:14:41.917" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T16:07:11.867" Title="VW Golf fuel filler cap will not unlock" Tags="|vw|golf|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4946" CreationDate="2012-12-16T15:01:36.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve covers are a popular leak spot, across all vehicle makes and models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T15:01:36.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2012-12-17T12:26:05.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked for a blown fuse? You may also be able to reach the release either by reaching into the wheel well or removing an interior panel. Another option is that the latch is released but the spring that pops the door open is broken. Have an assistant try to open the door while you actuate the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T01:58:35.253" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T01:58:35.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4940" CreationDate="2012-12-17T15:49:42.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're hearing a distinct gurgling, I'd start by looking at the coolant system. It's possible that the deceleration of braking creates a condition where the gurgling noise happens, maybe in the coolant overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that this happens on a cold startup, and will happen again after only a one hour shutdown I think supports the coolant system theory--one hour is enough time for the coolant to cool back down. Check the level of coolant in your overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other system that could cause a gurgling noise (though a bit of a different sound) would be the A/C system. Sometimes as the refrigerant goes through the expansion valve you get a hiss/bubble noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really doubtful that this is directly related to the hydraulic brake system--there's just not enough fluid to make an audible gurgle (also there's not the potential for enough air to be moving through the brake system to gurgle, even if the system wasn't properly bled). I think if there's a connection to braking, it'd be due to the deceleration of the car affecting some fluid in some other system of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T15:49:42.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2012-12-18T00:54:55.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people have had a relay get reversed on them, that is, they locked their Golf only to find that the fuel flap was unlocked. Give this a try, and also try locking and unlocking your golf several times to attempt to reset things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T00:54:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-18T07:23:54.440" Score="3" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a motorbike with a wet battery. I use its electric starter to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any research done by others before to prove which one of the following makes the durability of the wet battery shorter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the motorbike is well-maintained and still in factory default settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case 1: The lights are turned on &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; pressing the electric starter button until the engine starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case 2: The lights are turned on &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; pressing the electric starter button and the engine starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am only interested in the scientific data because without it, I can say nothing to my debate partner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said to my debate partner that both methods are fine. However, my debate partner said the first case makes the battery life time shorter. He cannot give me the proof as well. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1252" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:34:20.783" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:34:20.783" Title="Wet battery durability based on how we start a motorbike engine" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4960" CreationDate="2012-12-18T08:12:26.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where possible, have as few electrical items switched on as possible when you start a car or bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to do this any way, as if the battery is a bit low, the load can drain it rapidly and you may not start the engine, but in any case you will require more recharge cycles, which will reduce its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if the current drawn is too high you can start to cause chemical changes in the battery which may also shorten  its life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T09:12:13.340" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T09:12:13.340" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4966" CreationDate="2012-12-18T08:57:00.293" Score="4" ViewCount="3462" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I say rough I mean like bad 70s carbureted motor rough. I've never seen an injected motor this rough during warm up. On the coldest days, it can even die out on me. The problem has only popped up since temps have dropped into the low 30s here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed my plugs and wires according to GM spec a few months back so they should be solid. Oil is good ... at least Oil Stop says it is. Everything else seems fine and it runs great once it's warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2453" LastEditorUserId="2453" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T17:06:39.283" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:09:30.547" Title="2003 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L Very rough, unstable idle on cold starts" Tags="|rough-idle|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-18T14:48:52.813" Score="4" ViewCount="10014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Hybrid Camry with keyless ignition. If open the door (after I park the car) but before I shut off the engine the car will beep at me. This will continue until I get out and close the door. I have no idea what this feature is trying to tell me but it is very annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note I also recently rented a Nissan Maxima and this car does the same thing. Is there an easy way to disable this without pulling out wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2521" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T13:42:13.670" Title="Is it possible to disable beep for opening door before shutting off the engine?" Tags="|toyota|nissan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2012-12-18T15:22:53.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 'old-style' cars you would physically remove the key from the ignition, so it was quite hard to forget and leave the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With keyless ignition, you could walk away without realising the car is running, especially in a noisy environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car manufacturers don't like being sued, so if there is a chance that drivers could walk away then return to find an empty tank, or even a stolen car, they will make it very obvious to even the dumbest driver that something is not right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T15:22:53.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2012-12-18T16:40:45.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not a short, it's a bad connection. Typically at the battery terminal, but maybe the main body ground off the battery or main connection at the fuse box off power side. Seen it a lot as a tech. Check for looseness or corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T16:40:45.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4962" CreationDate="2012-12-18T17:09:30.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like I may have answered my own question last night. I did a &lt;strong&gt;deep clean on the throttle body&lt;/strong&gt; (and as far back in as I could access). The idle is HUGELY improved, though still not perfect on this 28° morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that really all it was? I'd love to hear your comments if you've had the same experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2453" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:09:30.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2012-12-19T01:06:43.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It maybe to inform you that the door is open. It may be that the body control module is seeing an abnormal sequence. The typical sequence being Park,engine off, door open,door close. Since Park, door open, engine off is not typical a bit may be latched triggering the chime. Check the owners manual as it may be programable option. My Impala allows for some personalization of certain functions. Some of the changes I can make are headlight off delay, auto doorlock in drive, keyminder, domelight on after engine shutdown etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T01:06:43.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4970" CreationDate="2012-12-19T04:27:44.827" Score="9" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove manual car for a long time but never tried to switch gears without clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; given that clutch-less shift is executed properly, does it take a toll on transmission in any way? For example: does clutch-less shifting reduce life of synchros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T15:04:43.850" Title="Switching gears without clutch" Tags="|transmission|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4968" CreationDate="2012-12-19T05:31:21.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an old T5 I could shift beautifully without the clutch but the motor had to be screaming (somewhere between 4 and 5 grand). At normal operating speeds the transition just wasn't fast enough and the gears would grind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a tranny that would tolerate clutchless shifting under regular conditions without some major gear crunching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2453" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T05:31:21.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4968" CreationDate="2012-12-19T08:09:35.090" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is straightforward to do this without any wear to your synchromesh, but it takes a lot of practice, especially when downshifting as you need to match revs accurately. Learning to heel and toe correctly will help you a lot here! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; need to race the engine, as you should be using the same rev range as you would normally driving the car! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T08:09:35.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4968" CreationDate="2012-12-19T15:04:43.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question: given that clutch-less shift is executed properly, does it&#xA;  take a toll on transmission in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4970/57&quot;&gt;Rory's answer&lt;/a&gt;: it is possible to do properly without wear.  It is difficult to do properly every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example: does clutch-less shifting reduce life of synchros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are &lt;em&gt;learning&lt;/em&gt; shift clutch-free, &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;, you will beat the hell out of the synchros.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to learn how to properly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/how-to/heel-and-toe-downshift.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heel-and-toe&lt;/a&gt; using the clutch (and actually double clutching).  Become an expert at using the clutch properly and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; decide whether clutchless shifting is for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I never shift without the clutch.  I don't drive a dog box in competition and don't see a good reason not to use one of the pedals available to me.  I've worn through the floor mat in two places trying to become better at heel and toe-ing, though.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T15:04:43.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4973" CreationDate="2012-12-19T15:35:01.010" Score="4" ViewCount="10686" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electric power steering pump in our 2006 Ford Focus 1.8 TDCi 5 Door Hatchback (this is a UK car) has failed and I plan to replace this myself. The part in question looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IjkaT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the local Ford garage, when this part is replaced they have to read some data from a control unit on the broken pump then copy it to the new &quot;blank pump&quot;. The chap on the phone euphemistically called it a &quot;suck and blow&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounded quite unlikely, and has the smell of making the job sound more complex than it actually is thus ensuring Ford get my business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon making further enquiries elsewhere, I am told that the pump is not in fact re-programmed in any way, but that the &quot;re-programming&quot; is simply to reset the fault light in the engine management system once the part is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone shed any light on the real truth of the matter here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2523" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T03:22:01.237" Title="Replacing a Ford Focus electric power steering pump" Tags="|ford|power-steering|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4972" CreationDate="2012-12-19T19:18:48.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If replacing the power steering pump triggers a fault code, all you need is one of these to reset it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0056VHZD8&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS509-Scanner-vehicles/dp/B0056VHZD8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1355944663&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=EOBD+reader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone can feel free to come along and prove me wrong here because I'm not 100% sure how things are across the pond, but claiming that you need to program a pump is a tall tail if you ask me, I think the chap was trying to trick you into parting with your hard earned cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T19:18:48.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4975" CreationDate="2012-12-19T23:54:35.720" Score="5" ViewCount="10160" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Honda Odyssey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the key, lights come on, all dash comes on, normal beep noises.  No bad engine light or anything.  Solenoid engages.  One click only.  Turn off car, solenoid disengages.  Not the telltale multiple clicks of a bad starter.  Car lights do not dim when the key is turned.  They stay solid (headlights do not dim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground wire(s) appear clean and connected properly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jumping the car does not help.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery is 12.5 and good.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition switch appears okay as the car turns on each time, not loose, never&#xA;fails to turn on the lights, just like normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beat starter, physically.  Did not help. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolled the car back and forth few feet. Did not help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the starter still be bad?  I hear the solenoid but nothing else.  Motor just doesn't turn over.  It almost did once, but not again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of ideas.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T17:57:00.457" Title="Can the starter be bad even if the solenoid appears to work?" Tags="|honda|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4974" CreationDate="2012-12-20T01:56:40.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solenoid may still be bad. The solenoid is basically a remote controlled high current switch.  The solid thunk sound of the solenoid does not indicate that it is passing current to the starter. The sound is the bendix being engaged. With the help of an assistant, attach a VOM (volt meter) lead to the batterycable terminal on the starter solenoid. The reading should be very close to battery voltage. Move the lead to the other large terminal on the starter solenoid. Have your assistant attempt to start the car. The reading should be between 10-12 volts. The fact that the lights don't dim at all leads me to believe either the starter has failed to the point that it is not trying to turn so there is no load on the battery or the solenoid has failed so the starter never tries to turn, again no load on the battery. Most auto parts stores will test the starter for free. Even if the solenoid is bad the rest of the starter is still 12+ years old. In my experience a quality solenoid can be half the cost of a rebuilt starter and a quality rebuilt starter will come with a new solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T02:42:46.003" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T02:42:46.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4986" CreationDate="2012-12-20T05:17:05.240" Score="6" ViewCount="36389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2001 WJ 4.0, The right brake light wasn't working, so I installed a new bulb, but I must have done something in the process because now all my brake lights work but I have no running lights. My dash lights all work, and I can't find any blown fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:Brake lights, turn signals, and reverse lights all work, but no running lights which are the same bulb as the brake lights. Does anyone know which fuse(s) I should inspect specifically? The fuse chart is cryptic at best, this weekend I may eventually resort to scrutinizing every fuse in the jeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T17:13:27.920" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T04:40:23.867" Title="Brake lights, but no tail lights" Tags="|jeep|tail-lights|fuse|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5008" CreationDate="2012-12-20T07:16:33.243" Score="3" ViewCount="2647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing one of the oh-so controversial HID retrofits - I got myself I nice pair of projectors and bulbs (I am using cheep ballasts until I have the money for some nice OEM ones).  The projectors I bought have solenoids to open up the high beam.  I would like to use the lights with my Jeep's current light switch on the steering column.  My halogen lights are h4 and the low beams are not on when the high beams are.  If I want to wire a bi-xenon solenoid I will need to find some way of getting the light to stay on and have the solenoid open when the high beam is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an idea that will work, but it involves a relay which means the lights will momentarily be off when I switch from low to high beam (as the relay changes from closed to open).  Here is my drawing, will this be good enough, or will I need to make sure the voltage does not get cutoff when opening the solenoids?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v1ysW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T04:50:01.833" Title="Help setting up Bi-Xenon lights with h4 wiring" Tags="|wiring|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2012-12-20T07:23:03.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom's Prius HID bulb died (under warranty) so she took it in to get it replaced.  The dealer replaced one of the bulbs and it was a completely different color than the original.  I finally bought her two new bulbs from Amazon and replaced them for her because it was so bothersome.  In a situation like that it is definitely worth it to replace both at the same time to make sure that they are the same color and brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation - if both lights (new and old) are the same color and brightness there really is no reason to replace them at the same time, especially if one light broke and did not burn out on its own.  If you have two headlights that are the same age and one burns out from usage then you can bet the other one is going to go sometime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, I always keep an extra in my car - just in case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T07:23:03.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4978" CreationDate="2012-12-20T11:39:14.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tail lights were hot during the swap you may have broken the filiments. Bumping a bulb that is on or been on recently can cause the filiments to fail. Remove the bulbs hold them up to a light and see if the filimant is intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T11:39:14.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-20T17:20:51.737" Score="10" ViewCount="5159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2001 Toyota Camry this past summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it's in great shape, and I presently see no rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Living in Wisconsin, we use salt pretty liberally to deal with snowy and icy roadways. My last car, a '97 minivan used exclusively in Wisconsin, had basically turned into a pile of rust. This included a rusted out strut tower [which a TSB was published for; this issue is most common in the &quot;salt belt.&quot;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit worried about my new car suffering the same fate, since it will be parked exclusively outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the only &lt;em&gt;problem&lt;/em&gt; I've had due to salt is that my aluminum[?] rims corroded slightly, causing a pretty nasty tire leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some ways I can go about preventing body damage from the harsh winter months?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T12:26:33.347" Title="How to prevent body damage and rust from salted roadways?" Tags="|body|rust|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4983" CreationDate="2012-12-20T17:28:29.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash off the salt whenever possible.  Inspect the car regularly (especially in locations where salt and water can get trapped).  Repair any noticable damage immediately (damaged paint, damaged undercoating, etc).  Set aside some spare funds in the anticipation of such repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that body panels don't rust, it's the strut towers, floor, and frame that get it first.  Keep a close eye on those areas.  I've had chunks of frame and floor cut out and replaced.  Not unreasonable cost if you can do some of the interior stripping yourself first.  Strut tower work gets pricy, but is not a death sentence for the car either as long as you don't let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and don't use aluminum wheels in the Winter.  Keep Summer tires on them and when Winter rolls around take them off and put on the steel wheels with proper Winter tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotal: My old body shop guy used to say that keeping the car outside vs. inside was a good thing in the Winter as the ice melting each time the car is garaged (assuming warm garage) lead to much faster corrosion.  Of course, in the non-freezing time, it needs to go in the garage as rain leads to corrosion as well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T17:28:29.863" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4983" CreationDate="2012-12-20T17:33:07.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular washing and waxing is your best bet. We kept our cars in one piece through the Rochester, NY winters with nothing more than this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wax provides a sacrificial protective coating for the painted parts of the body. You can apply wax to your wheels as well. As a bonus, the brake dust will be easier to wash off of a waxed wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then wash, wash, wash. Often a rinse is all that is needed. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the undercarriage of the car whenever you wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ruststop.net/electronic-rust-protection/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;products on the market&lt;/a&gt; that apply an electric charge to the body of the car in bid to inhibit corrosion. Corrosion (or oxidation) is an electrochemical process, and theoretically one can block this process by applying a charge to the body of the vehicle. I have no experience with these systems, but these systems are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection#Automobiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;widely viewed to be ineffective for automobiles&lt;/a&gt; (read &lt;a href=&quot;http://events.nace.org/library/corrosion/Car/car-electronic-protection.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cpengineer.com/Corrosion.Technical.html#CP_For_Cars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also spray on, or spray in (as in &quot;inside&quot;) wax treatments that can be applied to the car body in an attempt to block corrosion. Again, I have no experience with these, but haven't found it necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had great results with soap and water, a hose, and an occasional waxing of the body. It just takes diligence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="44272" LastEditDate="2019-04-15T12:26:33.347" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T12:26:33.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4978" CreationDate="2012-12-20T20:23:33.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its fairly common for these to burn out sockets for the bulbs, and even often on both sides at the same time. The socket can be removed asa separate piece, and it is fairly likely melted and/or burned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T20:23:33.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-20T20:48:46.377" Score="2" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried many technicians but none have solved my problem.&#xA;I had problems in the past past,  but one day my bike started to make a noise while opening the throttle when cold after about 50km/h speed. The noise sounds like the choke is on. After some months it was getting worse. When hot it, seemed ok. One day I could hardy go over 30km/h  anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the air filter two years ago. I told the technician that I suspected the air filter might be the problem, but he told me no! He told me that because I had done boring he put a bigger main jet! Then it was running ok but after driving when it stopped I had a drop at idle. Next day I had to try 30 times to start it manually. Then it turned off on its own when braking or at a stop. Once it warmed up it seemed okay. The noise was still there. They told me that it was normal to hear noise when cold. I had to wait 5km in order for this noise to stop. &#xA;Then next day it got worse. I tuned the carb, then it was fine at idle, and it started great. But after driving fast 80-100km/h, when I was stopped it turned off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day after that things got worse. I couldn't go faster than 30km/h again and I heard the noise. Fuel consumption was 2x because of the main jet. I decided to fix the problem myself again. I removed the air filter box and it had some insects inside and seemed black. I installed a cone air filter I had from previous owner. Then although cold start I had problems but that noise stopped and although cold it could go fast without problems and no noise. But throttle response was weird. I guess that air/gas mixture is screwed ? Should I go back to my old main jet  and buy a new filter?&#xA;And why does it turn off when I stop ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="395" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T17:40:59.740" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T17:40:59.740" Title="Moped bike motor problem carburetor" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|moped|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5027" CreationDate="2012-12-20T23:43:18.273" Score="7" ViewCount="200101" Body="&lt;p&gt;[My car: 2004 Mazda 3]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my wife came home from running some errands and told me the check-engine light was on and that the car was sputtering and felt like it was going to stall while stopped at stop lights.  I went to check it out, maybe 5 minutes later, and I took it for a drive... everything seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day it happened to me.  I got to where I was going and let it sit for 10 minutes. The car seemed fine on the drive back home.  So, maybe letting it rest, fixes things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the day I went out and it still seemed fine.  I got to where I was going and let it sit for about 40 minutes or so.  When I left, it was sputtering again.  I drove 10 minutes then decided to try letting it sit a couple minutes in a parking lot.... so I went and parked, sat for a couple minutes and restarted, and it went back to normal for the rest of my drive - about 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later that day, I left work and it seemed fine for the first 30 minutes or so and then it started sputtering while driving again and really threatening to stall when stopped at the lights.  I tried the parking lot trick but it only worked for a couple minute then it went back to sputtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at stop lights when it's threatening to stall it smells kinda like rotten eggs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long story but I want to make sure I put down enough detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the codes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2178 - System too rich off idle bank 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2196 - O2 sensor signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE 2]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it into the shop and they spent 5 hours troubleshooting the problem and eventually came to the conclusion that the O2 sensor needed replacing. (as Bob Cross suggested)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the car back and the next day the same problems started happening again and the check-engine light came back on throwing the following codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2196 - O2 sensor signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2188 - System too rich on idle bank 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's back in the shop now waiting on a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPDATE 3]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is now fixed - at least it seems to be.  I've driven it a few days and the symptoms have not returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix:  the shop found that the MAF sensor was corroded, so they cleaned it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastEditorUserId="145" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T16:54:45.017" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T22:45:07.977" Title="Sputtering while driving &amp; idling" Tags="|engine|mazda|exhaust|o2-sensor|maf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-21T05:06:35.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CDW27_platform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CDW27_platform&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Models and Years&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1995-2000 Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1999-2002 Mercury Cougar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1993-2000 Ford Mondeo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forums&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://contour.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contour.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fordcontour.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fordcontour.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T04:13:24.963" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T04:13:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4990" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-21T05:06:35.447" Score="0" Body="Ford &quot;World Car&quot; platform" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T05:06:35.447" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T05:06:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zetec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zetec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" Score="0" Body="Ford 4-cylinder engine." OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T05:12:31.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4928" CreationDate="2012-12-21T15:59:55.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.focushacks.com/mod/Jacking:_Raising_and_supporting_your_Focus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Focushacks.com has this excellent diagram:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VlRUf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T17:05:06.450" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T17:05:06.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2012-12-21T19:37:59.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/mazda3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of TSBs&lt;/a&gt; for this set of codes, this looks like a promising candidate: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/01-028-04.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;01-028/04 MAZDA SPECIAL PROGRAM (MSP05) - 2004 MAZDA3 - O2 SENSOR DTC ERROR, P2195 / P2196&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, a problematic O2 sensor could easily lead to the idling, sputtering and smells that you describe.  If the sensor is stuck reading full lean, it's highly likely that the car is pouring far more gas through the injectors than you'd ever want.  Has the mileage dropped dramatically since the problem occured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:37:59.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4996" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:03:42.887" Score="3" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some leaking underneath the engine. My guess is that it's an &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46HPX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;engine oil leak. Do you think I'm correct? From your experience, what is a good place to start looking for the leak? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SqzJA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T00:10:01.013" Title="Pontiac Aztek 2004 Oil Leak" Tags="|pontiac|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4995" CreationDate="2012-12-22T09:47:17.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like oil - simplest place to start is to get the front jacked up, ideally on axle stands or a ramp to make it as safe as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a good maintenance lamp and just start looking for oil - the shine gives it away, even amongst the dirt you get on the underside of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the drain valve for the oil pan/sump, and look for drips down the side of the engine block to check for leaks higher up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T09:47:17.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5002" CreationDate="2012-12-23T01:12:05.580" Score="2" ViewCount="1693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to adjust the vertical alignment of the headlights on my Milan? The driver's side headlight shines up too high. Also, there is a dark spot in the middle of the beam. Could these two problems be related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2533" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T16:46:33.753" Title="2010 Mercury Milan Headlight alignment" Tags="|headlight|alignment|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2012-12-23T02:58:43.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use compressed air to remove dirt from around the spark plugs before removing them. Especially if the plugs are on top of the engine and point strait down. Important - aways wear saftey glasses or goggles when working with compressed air (or working on any part of a car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T02:58:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3255" CreationDate="2012-12-23T06:11:42.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is likely a seal that holds your gear oil in place on the shaft. Also, assuming you bought these online and installed yourself, did you verify them to be the same length and also that the shaft sat all the way into its seat? If it did not seat it could have wiggle room that allows it to slide in and out, instead of flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T06:11:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2012-12-23T12:19:15.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had these exact symptoms with a 2002 Vauxhall Astra. As well as the Crankshaft Sensor error (and the garage confirmed it had previously thrown out an O2 sensor error). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine was the EGR valve, with fuels that use a lot of additives (here in the UK that's 'supermarket fuel') the valve quickly becomes caked in carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) recirculates gases back through the engine before leaving the exhaust in an attempt to lower carbon emissions. 9/10 you can just whip it off and clean it out with carb cleaner and it'll be good for good while longer. However, a lot of people, just take them off the car altogether. You'll often get (very slight) better throttle response in low revs and marginally better MPG (1-3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're engine is quite efficient anyway, removing the EGR will do more good than harm. In the case of my Astra, the ECU would need to be reflashed by the manufacturer to ignore the EGR not being in place (for me that's a P0400).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, replacing an EGR if it's easily accessible in the engine bay is a simple job that anyone can do. Take a look at prices online and consider going that route if carb cleaner does work and solves the problem in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2535" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T12:19:15.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4997" CreationDate="2012-12-23T16:46:33.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The adjustment screws should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have adjusted the bulb, see if the dark area goes away. It could be connected with the alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T16:46:33.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-23T18:08:38.177" Score="10" ViewCount="115062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2006 VW beetle with the 2.5L engine. Once the engine has warmed to operating temperature, and I am driving it around, the heater works great. As soon as I stop at a red light, or am idling for any length of time the air coming out of the vents begins to lose temperature until it blows cool air.&#xA;All I have to do to get hot air again is give it a little gas, say 200 more rpms, and the heater immediately responds with warmer air, hot air if I maintain 1000 rpms. &#xA;I have read related information on here and think that if the heater works great at other times, I do not have a blender door issue, clogged heater core, or low coolant level. The coolant level is fine, by the way.&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2536" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T04:18:25.777" Title="Heater blows cold air at idle" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5003" CreationDate="2012-12-23T22:32:10.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have air trapped in the cooling system. The air needs to be burped out. The method varies by make, model, year, etc. Due to variation between models can you tell us what country the car was made for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T04:18:25.777" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T04:18:25.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-24T07:17:46.307" Score="6" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a jeep with very small tires (not sure the exact size).  I recently bought a new pair of tires that are probably 2 or 3 inches larger radius.  Do I have to update my jeep so the speed is calibrated for the larger circumference of the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  sorry for the confusion, but I bought four new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="2274" LastEditDate="2012-12-24T16:31:01.293" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T16:57:16.110" Title="Do I have to change my speedometer setting if I get larger tires?" Tags="|tires|speedometer|computer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5005" CreationDate="2012-12-24T10:07:15.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. That is a significant difference so your speedo will be out by a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some regions it is required by law to have an accurate speedo! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T10:07:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5005" CreationDate="2012-12-24T11:50:32.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age of your Jeep the recalibration involves either swapping speedo drive gears in the tranny or reprograming the computer. The reasons for having this done are that modern vehicles use many data points for different systems and they all interconnect at some point. ABS, transmission shiftpoints,traction control, cruise control are all looking for accurate vehicle speed data. Not to mention blackbox data in the event of a serious accident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-12-24T16:57:16.110" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T16:57:16.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2012-12-25T04:44:04.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling HID lamps the way you propose will reduce the lifespan of the bulbs, they aren't made to be turned back on shortly after being turned off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm having trouble making sense of your schematic - the oval labeled &quot;LIGHTS&quot; - is that supposed to represent the ballast? I don't know that I'd power that directly from your H4, seems like I'd want a new fused run from the battery through a relay powering the ballasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not affiliated with them, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theretrofitsource.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theretrofitsource.com/&lt;/a&gt; sells kits that comes with a ballast controller module that can be interfaced directly to your factory H4 connector. I have one in my Subaru. It takes care of the things you appear to be overlooking - like keeping the ballast and bulbs powered while switching from low to high beams (on HID's all that should happen is the solenoid to move the shield should be powered), or implementing a time-delay so that the ballast does not fire, die, and fire again in rapid succession while turning the key from off through accessory to run, temporarily to start, and back to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="654" LastEditDate="2012-12-25T04:50:01.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T04:50:01.833" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5017" CreationDate="2012-12-25T23:36:07.357" Score="4" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2007 A6 the reversing lights are very feeble, enough to make it quite difficult to reverse in my own driveway in the dark.  I understand that I can't simply use higher-wattage bulbs or LED replacements because of the car's fault detection system.  My local dealer says that nothing can be done; he may be right, but it's a little difficult to believe.  Does anyone have a suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T18:32:54.023" Title="Audi A6 : brighter reversing lights?" Tags="|electrical|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5016" CreationDate="2012-12-26T05:15:26.080" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a used car that is somewhat uncommon in the combination of year, make, model, trim package, etc. I found a car that I would like to buy but it is a 17-hour car ride away (one way). Is there any safe way for me to purchase the car and have it freighted to me so I don't have to spend the time and money to drive that far? It is for sale by a dealer in the faraway place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary concerns are:&#xA;* How can I be assured I will actually get the car? Escrow service? &#xA;* Is the car exactly as described? I have have the local dealer inspect it. How can I be assured they will actually inspect it, or do a thorough inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some companies that will handle shipping the car itself, so I think I'm ok on that issue. I could fly one-way to get the car, but if the car is not as advertised, I have to buy a return ticket, which would be more expensive than driving both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recognize these tags don't really fit, but I can't create new tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2131" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T19:34:50.820" Title="Is there any safe way to buy a used car and have it shipped to me?" Tags="|inspection|service|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5012" CreationDate="2012-12-26T06:29:06.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure this question is a good fit for motor vehicle maintenance. But, if you want something done right, do it yourself. Fly to the car yourself and inspect it before signing the sale. If you have it shipped all the way to you to learn that it doesn't match the photo, you've spent far more money than if you had flown out to see the car and worst case, flown back home. If you fly out and back, you're only out the price of a plane ticket or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-12-26T15:24:46.930" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T15:24:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5011" CreationDate="2012-12-26T10:19:20.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly alternative solution- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use PIR lights along your drive so that you get the drive lit up from outside, rather than from your car lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T10:19:20.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5012" CreationDate="2012-12-26T12:36:28.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even the most a thorough inspection cannot verify that everything will continue to work only that they are working now. That said you could ask the seller to take the car to the nearest dealer and have it inspected. They would charge say 2 hours labor to pull the wheels off check the brakes etc. But how much do you pay the seller for their time to drop off the car etc. If you add in the cost of airfare you are going to most likely going to overpay for the car. Lets say the dealer gives it a clean bill, one month later the a/c stops working. Who can you complain to, the seller is 17 hours away. The used car laws may not be the same in that state as yours. Unless this is a potentialy valuble rare classic that is your dream car look closer to home. Just be patient something will show up closer to home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T12:36:28.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5012" CreationDate="2012-12-26T17:43:06.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the same boat as I'm shopping for a car that I can't find at every street corner either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach is that if I'm spending more than a few grand, I'll fly out to look at the car and have it inspected by a specialist who works on these cars on a regular basis. If I happen to have a trusted friend or acquaintance in the area, I might ask them to give it a once-over if they are car people before flying out, but I would not make a purchase that expensive sight unseen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also check for a forum for this particular make &amp;amp; model to see if someone there (a) knows the car or (b) can recommend a specialist to do a pre-purchase inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a ton of scams out there at the moment where the car is &quot;somewhere&quot; and for some reason cannot be viewed, the owner is in the military or whatever yadda yadda yadda. Be careful and if you can't view it person, tell the seller to take a hike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think you meant &quot;can't view it in person&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="2131" LastEditDate="2012-12-26T19:34:50.820" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T19:34:50.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5011" CreationDate="2012-12-26T18:32:54.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked the Bosch,Phillips and Sylvania websites they all list highoutput or premium lamps. I can't give you a specif reccomendation because they list many options depending on which country you are in and what it came with stock. The lamps you have may already be the brightest available. I would check these sites, input the information and compare them to the bulb you have. The performance lamps may not be readible available at the local autostore but they should be able to order them. Also be aware that the added light comes at the cost of shorter bulb life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T18:32:54.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-26T18:47:36.160" Score="1" ViewCount="44585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 ford f350 diesel and some very perplexing problems: The ignition won't turn over the starter yet the lights shut off when engaged (usually means the ignition switch is ok) but also the starter works if I jump the hot to the ground. I've swapped relays, checked fuses apart from replacing the ignition switch and starter how else can I diagnose this? Also it seems the solenoid isn't engaging when I try to hot jump it now (starter just spins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignition switch or starter issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2540" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T21:17:10.830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T06:10:43.843" Title="starter doesn't turn with ignition switch" Tags="|ford|diesel|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5018" CreationDate="2012-12-26T21:42:23.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solenoid is really a big switch. It has two functions, send power to the starter and control the Bendix. The Bendix is the gear assembly that engages the flywheel. If the starter spins when you bypass the solenoid the starter is working. By jumping out the solenoid terminals both of which are &quot;hot&quot; by the way, you have tested the starter motor. You should be able to see at least one smaller gauge wire and the battery cable attached to the starter. With the key in the start position you should see about 12V on the small wire. If you have the 12v at that wire the solenoid is the most likely fault. If you don't have 12v at the small wire, you need to get a wiring diagram for the truck. You then have to follow the circuit back to find out where you do have 12v and where it stops. It could be a relay, the ignition switch or any wire in between. This is why the diagram is so important. Many times the engine control module is looking for several inputs to generate that 12v on the solenoid. It may be from the chip in the key, the I am in park switch, etc. Without the wiring diagram you are guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T21:42:23.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5022" CreationDate="2012-12-26T22:40:46.253" Score="7" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Ford Focus SE 2.0L. There’s some oil leak on the engine. A mechanic told me it could be the engine valve gasket being cracked (the car is pretty old and never had a valve gasket change). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to open it up and change the valve gaskets. I bought a Repair Manual, and followed the instructions for opening engine valve cover. After unscrewing everything, I could not lift the engine cover. I used a wrench to knock on it a few times, it still would not budge one bit when I tried to lift it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched an &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/KD_VsBKZFfk?t=9m3s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online tutorial&lt;/a&gt; for the 2005 Focus. In the video, engine cover popped off easily after all the screws were removed. I don’t know what more would I have to do to get mine open…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine with valve cover removed from far away&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ExH3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine from far away&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine close up after unscrewing &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bz3QC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair Manual Instructions (Haynes)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HnGjw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T00:35:10.593" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T00:35:10.593" Title="2004 Ford Focus engine cover would not budge after all screws are removed" Tags="|engine|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2012-12-26T23:19:03.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like there's a metal plate in your photo still covering part of the valve cover closest to you. I'm betting that's part of your problem. It's also worth noting that in your repair manuel, the upper timing belt cover is also removed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T23:19:03.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2012-12-26T23:38:37.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been there, done that on a 2.0L Zetech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you got all the bolts.  I'm only seeing two holes on the bottom row (should be three, right?).  Make sure nothing else is screwed into the valve cover that could be holding it down.  Hilsons is right about your manual saying to loosen the timing cover bolts.  I managed to get one off without doing so (different year/vehicle) but it probably made it more difficult.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a rubber mallet and tap the cover gently to loosen the the gasket.  You're not going to be able to pull the valve cover straight up because of the timing belt cover on the left (if you're looking down at the engine standing in front of the vehicle).  Start trying to work the right side up a bit and once you've got a gap, use it to break the rest free, then take it out to the right and up.  It's possible there may be a few blobs of silicone sealant applied which could make it extra difficult to break free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When putting the cover back on with a new gasket, watch the torque.  You don't want to break any bolts off.  You are looking to put inch lbs, not foot lbs of torque on the bolts.  I've got a factory manual for a different year (and a different platform), but I think it's about 7 newton meters of torque.  Double check that figure with your manual.  Too much or too little torque and it will leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might as well change the plugs while you're at it unless they're nowhere near due (factory double platinums should last 100,000 miles).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2012-12-26T23:53:03.453" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T23:53:03.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5026" CreationDate="2012-12-27T06:56:16.107" Score="7" ViewCount="1479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there some way we can predict that the car alternator is about to fail in order to avoid a discharged battery situation on the road..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it will slow the sound of horn and will dim the headlights but is there some way we get to know about it before our journey or may be at the time of regular car service..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the blinking battery sign the only option..??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2254" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T14:46:34.983" Title="How to detect a failing car alternator..?" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5023" CreationDate="2012-12-27T11:22:48.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The horn changing, and lights getting dim are not going to be the first things you would notice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you would notice during driving would be more sluggish performance under high load, but you may already notice the car being more difficult to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T11:22:48.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5033" CreationDate="2012-12-27T11:43:11.023" Score="3" ViewCount="20844" Body="&lt;p&gt;We own a 2011 Mitsubishi Montero Sport GTV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We noticed that the dashboard lights were dimmer than normal. What could possibly cause this? Would replacing the battery fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2545" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T18:46:55.323" Title="Dashboard lights are dim?" Tags="|battery|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5023" CreationDate="2012-12-27T14:46:34.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not, but maybe in some circumstances.  I've had 4 alternator failures in my life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Toyota MR2 - Alternator diode blew up (big bang and smoke) while driving on the expressway.  No prior warning.  Just BANG! and was suddenly on battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Toyota MR2 - Alternator casing broke causing the alternator to bind up and jam (with loud scraping and banging noises).  No warning.  Perhaps if I'd have visually inspected the alternator I might have seen a crack, but the alternator is not visually accessible anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Mitsubishi Eclipse - Aftermarket voltage gauge installed, noted that at idle the voltage was down at battery type levels (12.3 instead of 13-14).  Took that as my warning and swapped the alternator.  Factory gauge/light gave no warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Mitsubishi Eclipse - Voltage regulator in the above replacement alternator failed after 9 months (still in warranty, but was unable to get the aftermarket manufacturer to honor the warranty, I now ONLY buy OEM alternators).  Voltage was running too high (15-16 volts).  Noticed that every single warning light on the dash would glow...  So, perhaps that might be a warning to keep in mind for overvoltage failures.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T14:46:34.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2012-12-27T17:13:02.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this was a 2 part fix, I'll add it as the accepted answer, though Bob Cross got half of it correct.  I never checked the EGR as DeviateDefiant suggested as it was fixed before getting to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The O2 sensor was replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The MAF sensor was corroded, so it was cleaned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't help but wonder if we fixed the MAF sensor first if the O2 sensor would've needed replacing.  The codes were pointing to the O2 sensor though.... I guess we'll never know. :o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T17:13:02.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2012-12-28T02:00:33.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing not mentioned here is that the unburnt fuel from a cylinder misfiring will find its way into the oil and cause symptoms similar to a flooded engine. I called a mechanic to try boosting the engine on a relative's car today, and he said it was extremely flooded, the spark plugs needed to be replaced and the oil changed, and he wouldn't be able to do it until next week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked at the engine to see if changing the spark plugs was something I wanted to do myself, I noticed two of the six were completely disconnected. The oil smelled like gas and the oil level was quite a bit over full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T02:00:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5039" CreationDate="2012-12-28T20:11:48.977" Score="4" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aftermarket cruise-control system which only somewhat works in a 2005 Ford Focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this I mean that it controls the speed but is largely inaccurate (+/- at least 10mph). Going up/down hills causes the speed to slowly increase/decrease for a long while. So it works... somewhat, but, obviously something is broken/failing with the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to diagnose the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks identical to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jcwhitney.com/custom-cruise-control-kit/p2022501.jcwx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product&lt;/a&gt;. I do not know the exact model because it was installed prior to me purchasing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fySyq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;on console&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the unit under the hood (I'm not sure though...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh0ra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what I think is the unit under the hood&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastEditorUserId="2549" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T20:05:02.953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T20:11:07.397" Title="Diagnosing Cruise Control Problems" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|focus|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-28T20:14:41.640" Score="2" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tahoe won't turn over. There are no clicking sounds. Lights will turn on. Nothing happens when I turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2550" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2012-12-28T21:44:15.670" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T18:11:40.327" Title="1996 Chevy Tahoe Won't Start" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5032" CreationDate="2012-12-28T22:59:09.537" Score="6" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a passenger car with 3 mirrors (rear-view and 2 side mirrors), how do you set your side mirrors so as to see as much as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T04:45:47.560" Title="How do you set side mirrors?" Tags="|safety|driving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2012-12-28T22:59:09.537" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/content/avoiding-blind-spot-5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click &amp;amp; Clack&lt;/a&gt; method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sitting in the driver’s seat (left or right-hand drive vehicle):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Driver’s side mirror&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lean your head against the window, and set the driver’s side mirror so that you can just see the side of your car in the mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Passenger side mirror:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position your head, as best as possible to the middle of the car. Use your radio, or center console as a reference. Now set your passenger side mirror so that you can just barely see the side of your car in it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The difference?&lt;/strong&gt; In my experience, most people seem to have their mirrors set narrowly (left) which has much overlap (blue area), what you get is more information per sq. in. of mirror (right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gr6NG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mirror comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image taken from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelsmilwaukee.com/2012/05/22/how-to-reduce-or-eliminate-driving-blind-spots/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reasoning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that a lot of driver education classes promote what I would call is the improper, narrow-view method. Perhaps for newer drivers it is easier for them to understand where things are in the mirror if they have their own vehicle visible in the mirror as a reference. I can’t see how that outweighs the clear benefits of the wide-view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the wide-view method, you all but eliminate blind spots. The only things that can fit in your blind spot are small trolls that are attached to your rear quarters. You do not need to turn your head as far to check your sides. If you need to reverse into a tight spot, you simply lean toward the needed side to see more relevant visuals for backing in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some, this is controversial. I can’t see why. You decrease the amount of visual overlap, and increase the amount seen through the mirrors. That is, you only decrease the size of your blind spots (greatly). There is no drawback other than having to get used to the new positions, which is temporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.motorists.org/how-to-adjust-your-side-view-mirrors/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;'s another good article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None specific to this method, really. But keep in mind that this optimizes the view for the lanes adjacent to yours. Merging lanes coming in at an angle, or the 2 lanes over, visibility will be better, but you still need to shoulder-check those. Also, no guarantee that it works on all vehicle shapes and sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T00:28:19.020" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T00:28:19.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5025" CreationDate="2012-12-29T15:04:08.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was just the battery. Had it replaced today and dashboard lights were back to normal. Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2545" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T15:04:08.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-29T17:09:27.837" Score="5" ViewCount="5770" Body="&lt;p&gt;As winter is now here a functional defogger is a requirement yet this year my car won't defog no matter what I try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All vents in the car are functional and blow whatever is pumped through them (eg I don't think there is a block of any kind, and both hot and cold work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've noticed is that my model doesn't have a toggle for &quot;recirculating&quot; the air inside the car vs. pulling in fresh air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short the best I can do is full fan, set to defog, with the temperature on COLD. Although this keeps the windshield and driver/passenger windows mostly clear it isn't ideal when its freezing outside (I live near Toronto Canada, so it's a full 4 moths of winter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the controls I have:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4ots.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a part of defog that should work like A/C that tries to remove humidity from the air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt; I didn't have any luck last winter resolving this but it turned out to not be a major issue weather wise.  This year the problem has returned so I took it into my local shop. They found no issue with the heater, fan etc. and couldn't find any issue that would cause this. I'm now going to look deeper to see if I can find any leaks into the vehicle where moisture is getting in, check the cabin filter isn't dirty/oily/wet etc. I may also return to my dealer to see if they have any &quot;known causes&quot; that might be of magical assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2551" LastEditorUserId="2551" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T14:00:00.543" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:49:43.377" Title="Defogger won't work in 2008 Chrysler 300" Tags="|winter|hvac|chrysler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2012-12-29T17:35:31.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The defrost setting (left most position on the right knob) should cycle the a/c and blow dried air onto the windshield. The a/c should dehumidify the air the result of which is less fog. The recirc function you are looking for is the two right most switch positions. This is not the selections you want for defogging. The humidity in the cabin will not be removed but recirculated. The most common causes for fogging issues are leaking heater cores, do you notice low coolant levels, a sweet smell when the fan is on, or an oily film on the windshield interior, all indicate a leaky heater core. Another cause is a leak that allows rain into the cabin. As it evaporates the humidity increases. If the heater box drain is plugged the moisture that the a/c unit removed from the air collects in the heater box and is recirculated resulting in fogging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T17:35:31.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5030" CreationDate="2012-12-29T18:11:40.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.Check for 12 on the battery +post to -post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Check for 12v on the +cable terminals,both ends at the battery and and the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.Check +post to the engine block you should have 12 volts (verifies a ground)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.While the key is at &quot;start&quot; the small solenoid wires should have 12v     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.If you have 12v at the solenoid and it doesn't click it is bad.&#xA;If you don't have 12v at the solenoid with the key at the start position you need a wiring diagram to start probing for where the 12v stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T18:11:40.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-29T18:45:59.663" Score="5" ViewCount="26069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Toyota Camry and in the last week the seat has locked all the way at the back.  If I move the switch to move it to the front the seat will move about 1/4&quot; and stop, and it will also move that far to the back.  It doesn't make any noise when it stopped, it behaves just as if it had come to the end of the track.  I have checked and there are no visible obstructions or damage.  Based on the fact that it moves at least a little I believe I can rule out the motor and switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research online and I only found two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit the rails with a rubber mallet while moving the switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to the dealer for a replacement seat assembly quoted (by the internet, not verified) at more than $1000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I going to do more damage to the vehicle by hitting the rail with a rubber mallet?  Is there any other option to try before taking it to the dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="483" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:45:30.053" Title="2003 Toyota Camry power seat will not move forward?" Tags="|camry|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2012-12-29T19:30:55.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you have something binding up or caught in the tracks. Not sure what their theory is with the rubber mallet. If it's to knock the brushes in the motor loose then it won't help because the motor is working. It could be to try and unbind but I doubt it. With that being said it really can't hurt to try the rubber mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step would be to loosen the seat bolts and try moving the seat, this will take any tension of the seat rails if it's in a bind. It that doesn't work I would take the seat out and inspect the tracks to see if anything has fallen into them. I have found coins and pens in the tracks before causing this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another important note. If this is the passenger seat and you even loosen the seat bolts you may have to have the OCS (Occupant Classification System) recalibrated by someone with a scan tool. This system effectively weighs the person in the passenger seat to determine how or if to deploy the passenger side airbag. The systems that use strain gauges require recalibration even if the seat bolts are loosened. If you have a bladder style system you don't have too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T19:30:55.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5029" CreationDate="2012-12-29T20:11:07.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be a Rostra unit their site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rostra.com/rostra-support.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rostra.com/rostra-support.php&lt;/a&gt; has an extensive support page. That is why I asked about the tail lights, they mentioned it. I would go to the site input you vehicle info and click the support tab. They will give you step by step instructions included are calibration steps, which may be your issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T20:11:07.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2012-12-30T01:46:19.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of those seat mechanisms come with safety features like windows do, and when they encounter resistance they stop. Check your seat rails for loose change, or any other tough items (umbrellas, etc). Hitting with a mallet should not harms anything, as you are mostly love tapping. This is to hopefully loosen a stuck rail, or seized motor. Lastly, a mechanic can diagnose it for you and give you an estimate. If you choose to not pay for the rails assembly, ask him to move to where you like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T01:46:19.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5042" CreationDate="2012-12-30T17:21:44.363" Score="2" ViewCount="3843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aiming to replace my 2010 Civic's air filter. While looking online to see what stores have it, I noticed that none of the stores bother to mention the size/dimensions of the air filter. The only link I found was on Canada Parts Online, which mentions a specific engine (not cabin) air filter as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7 in. L x 6.5 in. W x 1.38 in. HPanel style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks similar to mine in proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are air filters a standard size, within and across companies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T16:32:05.203" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T16:32:05.203" Title="Are cabin air car filters a standard size?" Tags="|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5041" CreationDate="2012-12-30T17:33:18.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While some filters may interchange unless it is between different car models of the same brand it is likely coincidence. There will also be interchangability among rebadged or sister brands. As an example some Ford /Mazda or Chrysler/Misubishi may also interchange. Checking Frams cabin filter application guide they list dimensions of the filter. They do not allow for a search by dimensions only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T17:42:00.640" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T17:42:00.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5068" CreationDate="2012-12-31T04:44:24.213" Score="9" ViewCount="106139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to change the engine oil but running into difficulties removing the oil drain plug. One of the instructions I followed to change the engine oil was to give the car a short drive prior to the oil change; this would heat up the oil so that it would flow more readily into an oil drain pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am having difficulties removing the plug, I was wondering if the heat has caused the oil drain plug to expand and tighten itself to its surrounding? Is it better to attempt to remove the oil drain plug when it is in a cooled down state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastEditorUserId="2552" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T05:52:49.643" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T05:45:55.850" Title="Stubborn oil drain plug caused by hot oil?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2012-12-31T06:35:29.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using the right wrench? The proper wrench will not damage the plug regardless of the temperature, and if using the wrong wrench, you could be stripping the plug. If the plug is already stripped, you might want to let it cool so you can work on the problem and not burn yourself. The plug could have also been over torqued, and the heat could be adding to the issue. If over torqued, you can cool the plug while the engine is hot (Cold will shrink the plug a small amount), and allow for easier removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T06:35:29.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5094" CreationDate="2012-12-31T15:24:48.903" Score="7" ViewCount="82439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Explorer that hasn't been idling well lately.  It normally idles around 800 or 900 rpms, but lately it will slow down to 400 or 500, then burst up to 1100 and repeat the process again.  It doesn't do this all the time, maybe only half-time.  Occasionally the rpms get so low that the engine dies, but that only seems to happen when I'm turning AND braking at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any idea what's causing it, and I really haven't even pinned down a common variable for when it happens.  It seems to have started with the cold weather, but even then I couldn't tell you for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions before I take it in to the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1633" LastEditorUserId="1633" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T17:22:35.597" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T21:27:17.410" Title="RPM fluctuation while idling" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-31T19:02:37.247" Score="5" ViewCount="7479" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Suzuki Access stops running even when there is very little rain or when there is very little water in the roads. Every time when I take it to the mechanic, there is water logged inside the air filter chamber which spoils the air filter and the mechanic asks me to replace it. The mechanic claims that this is the case with all the scooters. Is it true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been 18 months since I bought it and I had to struggle in the roads every time it rained. Does this happen in bikes too? Because I am fed up with my access and planning to buy Honda Unicorn now. Any advice is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will explain in detail what happens exactly when I drive while it is raining, as requested by Dan. When I apply brakes and start accelerating again, the acceleration is not smooth and I experience air blocks. After that it doesn't matter how hard I accelerate, the engine fails to respond and I feel severe air blocks thereafter. Within a few minutes of struggle the engine comes to a total halt. And the next morning when I take it to the mechanic, the air filter chamber is full of water and costs me Rs.170 every time this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2555" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:49:59.733" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T18:40:46.173" Title="Suzuki Access stops running during rains" Tags="|suzuki|scooter|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5054" CreationDate="2012-12-31T19:38:46.037" Score="4" ViewCount="2379" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wipers on my 2000 Mazda Protege recently quit working.  It wasn't an all-of-a-sudden thing, though.  Every so often over the last few weeks they would stop for a few seconds, then start again.  Then last week they were working when I left the house and quit halfway to work, only to start again when I wiggled the wiper arms.  Then this weekend they quit entirely.  When they were working, there was no indication that anything was wrong (speed normal, cleared mild amount of snow, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had wiper motors fail before (struggled to move the wipers before quitting) and a switch solenoid (worked one day then not the next).  Any ideas on what I should check given the gradually-failing method this one took?  Since this just happened, and it's 10°F outside right now, I have not dug under the hood at all yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The washer pump is still working (made for an interesting experience on the highway when the wipers quit).  To me that would indicate that the fuse is probably still good, unless someone knows if they are on separate circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T15:28:57.513" Title="Windshield wipers worked intermittently then quit altogether" Tags="|electrical|mazda|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-01T02:04:54.327" Score="8" ViewCount="46332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think all cars exhaust pipes get very rusty after not very long.  Why is that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the pipe gets extremely hot, but how come that makes it rust more than any other part of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T17:50:14.503" Title="Why is my exhaust pipe so rusty?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2013-01-01T10:54:08.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is close to the ground - where you have water, salt, grit etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is typically not made of rustproof metals, but is considered a consumable, with portions like the catalytic converter being relatively short lived, so spending lots extra to protect it would be pointless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exhaust gasses include corrosive gases such as sulphur dioxide, which becomes an acid when mixed with the water in the exhaust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most of my exhaust (the portion after the catalytic converter) is stainless steel, so it doesn't rust and looks pretty nice when I polish it. It cost a bit though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T10:54:08.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5063" CreationDate="2013-01-02T00:32:34.060" Score="3" ViewCount="7170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have chevy lumina 1991. The motor is very clean and looks like and used to work like a brand new car. However, these days since I was getting broke , I had to wait till my gas meter is very low and fill the gas. After 2 weeks doing like that, my car started not working very well. For e.g the engine started well but it couldn't accelerate more than 5-10 mil/hr. Its like walking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point of time, after a day, it worked and then the same thing happened and I tried to drove it like that for a mile and the car totally stopped. Now, nothing works. Even the electronic parts are down. No light, the motor doesn't start. Everything doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T14:35:37.770" Title="My car wasn not accelerating and finally come to stop" Tags="|maintenance|chevrolet|motors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-02T02:59:55.127" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing research for retrofitting my headlights to HID and projectors.  On different forums people are talking about how 55w ballasts tend to wash out the color of the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would a &quot;washed out&quot; bulb look like?  Would it be more yellow, or blue?  Or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T12:39:05.267" Title="What does &quot;washed out&quot; mean, in terms of headlights?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5051" CreationDate="2013-01-02T12:39:05.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Washed out means you lose some of the perceived intensity, clarity and sharpness - usually this means the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;colour temperature&lt;/a&gt; of the light drops so you move more towards the yellower end, losing those high intensity blue aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T12:39:05.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2013-01-02T14:13:18.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to what you found by blowing into the valve.  I recently replaced the crankcase vent tube which attaches to this valve.  Upon disassembly, I cleaned out the oil gunk from the valve, but was able to blow into every hole with no issue.  I'm assuming there should be some sort of diaphram in there, but not so on mine.  What can you tell me from your experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T14:13:18.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5047" CreationDate="2013-01-02T15:28:57.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ended up looking at it yesterday.  I pulled the wire harness out of the motor to start inspecting things and when I plugged it back in it worked for a moment.  Scraped some of the dirt and corrosion off of the connecting blades and it seems to work fine now.  Must have had just enough connection to work, but was susceptible to losing connectivity by vibration from driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T15:28:57.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2013-01-02T18:04:46.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you're using the proper socket or combination wrench. If it's not american, it will be metric, if it is american, it may or may not be metric. There is rarely a good reason to use an adjustable wrench (usually if you need two of the same size at the same time, or you're dealing with a large size that you don't have a wrench or socket for). If you've already begun to strip your drain plug head, you can buy a new one. Also, don't over tighten it, and use a new crush washer when replacing the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of sockets, 6 point and 12 point. If the head of the plug is getting stripped to the point that a 12 point socket isn't able to grip it, a 6 point socket may work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2560" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T18:04:46.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T02:22:43.580" Score="2" ViewCount="2016" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike struggles to idle on cold mornings. No issue there: I just open the choke till it warms. However, I must do this ever so slowly and delicately otherwise the engine cuts out. I find this odd as revving the throttle quickly is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know why this is occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T04:07:45.477" Title="Motorcycle: increasing choke kills engine" Tags="|motorcycle|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5057" CreationDate="2013-01-03T03:54:59.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have done any performance mods they may be contributing to your cold idle problem. Exhaust or air intake mods may put you in a borderline lean condition. You could have a lean idle circuit. This could be an adjustment/calibration problem or a dirty carb. When you open the throttle you bypass the idle circuit and the accelerator pump richens the mixture to keep the motor running. If you haven't done any performance  mods I would try some carb cleaner. I have had good luck with &quot;SeaFoam&quot; and PB Blaster &quot;lawnmower tune up in a can&quot;. Yes that really is the name of the product. I would try the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.shut off the fuel at the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.start the motor let it run out of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.disconnect the fuel line at the tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.spray the carb cleaner into the fuel line, completely fill the hose if you can&#xA; 5.reconnect the fuel line to the tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.crank the engine just enough to fill the carbs with the cleaner (approx 5 seconds)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.let the cleaner sit in the carbs for several hours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.add some cleaner to the fuel tank and turn the fuel shutoff back on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 start the engine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may take a few miles for the dirt and sludge to pass thru the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T03:54:59.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5031" CreationDate="2013-01-03T04:45:47.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you set your mirrors with the Click &amp;amp; Clack method, if you find the (electric) mirrors won't adjust out far enough, try moving the mirror up or down and then try to go further out. Failing that, I wouldn't be afraid to gently push on the mirror if the electric motor won't adjust it quite as far as you need. As Nick mentioned, manufacturers don't quite get the Click &amp;amp; Clack method, so sometimes the mirrors won't adjust out far enough without a little trickery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2131" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T04:45:47.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1218" CreationDate="2013-01-03T04:59:41.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Honda's have this feature starting in 1988.  Its a device that makes it difficult to lock your keys in the car. To lock the door from inside, you have to hold the door opener latch while locking the door and the lock will go all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read your owners manual.  It will be in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2562" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T17:07:59.833" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T17:07:59.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5070" CreationDate="2013-01-03T05:08:35.607" Score="8" ViewCount="9693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about installing a 500w halogen (HDX brand) on the roll bar in my jeep as the dome light because often I work in the back when it is dark or when I would like more light.  The 500w light will be drawing about 40amps from my car's electrical system (battery or alternator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have an 800w inverter that I can just plug it into.  If I am using the light while my jeep is idle the alternator will be producing more power to power the 500w light, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the engine RPM automatically rise so the alternator can output more power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="2274" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T06:15:09.627" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T17:35:47.633" Title="Does idle RPM increase when there is heavy load on the electrical system?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2013-01-03T09:32:39.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern engines &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; increase RPM's when the load on the electrical system increases, as the Engine Management system should monitor voltage and identify it being drawn low, so increasing RPM to increase output from the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even many older engines would do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T09:32:39.100" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:15:45.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of things. A broken alternator belt would allow the engine to run until the battery gets so low it can't power the needed systems such as fuel pump,ignition, computers etc. At this point it would stop. You need to tell us what you have checked, what you are capable of checking and any visual clues such as the belts are in place, the battery has 12v etc. If nothing is working you need to start with the battery. Does any thing work if you attach jumper cables? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:15:45.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:27:24.480" Score="4" ViewCount="4105" Body="&lt;p&gt;This past week, the owner of my former car came to me with this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMAsF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire with rubber inside of well&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is new and was mounted after she purchased the car from me. It has worn some inside of the bead. The tire was unmounted because of valve stem damage that is probably related to snow. Damage is on the driver's side rear (unpowered axle). Wear is only on the valve side of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this kind of tire wear? I'm having a hard time telling from the photo, but I think the rubber is worn down on a circular groove that may be from driving with a flat. Have you ever seen a tire with flakes of rubber inside the treads before? Is that wear sufficient enough to cause concern? Can low-to-moderate hand-brake turns in the snow be related (90-180 degrees, one storm, max 10 times?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic she brought it to is saying the wear was caused by the valve stem. I'm having a hard time figuring how the valve steam could have created a wear pattern over a range of the tire, and that low down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1120" LastEditorUserId="1120" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T22:36:17.833" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:22:43.507" Title="Identify cause of tire wear inside of rim" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:49:26.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple concerns with your plan. These types of lamps (bulbs) are fragile. If it is mounted to your rollbar there is a good chance it will be broken if you do any type of off roading. The most effecient means of powering extra lights is the 12volts of the Jeep. Because of losses in the inverter you will use more power than an equivilent 12v light. This means you will get more light for the same electrical load. I would compare the lumen output of some offroad halogen, highoutput LED and HID lights, then do a cost per lumen comparison. From what I have been able to find it is like comparing apples to oranges, no one uses the same standard when giving specification. Some list only watts (power used), or the color spectrum etc. I would check with some brands in your price range and contact their customer service and ask how many lumens the light puts out. This will at least give something to compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:49:26.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5064" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:59:42.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like damage from being run flat or with very low pressure. If the handbrake turns were all done turning in the same direction and the tire had low air pressure the sidewall would roll and rub in the turn. The damage would be confined to one side. I would replace the tire. The sidewall has damage. Any significent damage to the sidewall is like a bomb waiting to go off. It will fail you just don't know when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T22:05:23.247" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T22:05:23.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T05:21:36.857" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on making some projector headlights for my car. I would like to vacuum mold some plastic for the external cover to protect the lenses and housing from rocks and debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made a little box that I can lay my headlight into and vacuum the plastic with, but which type of plastic should I use? I have seen videos online on people using polystyrene to do this type of thing, but I am partial to polycarb because of it's strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will polycarb be a good plastic to use to make a cover for my headlight - can I put it in my oven then vacuum it just like polystyrene? Or would it be better just to use the styrene for my molding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T10:41:26.720" Title="Polycarb or Polystyrene for vacuum molding?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2013-01-04T15:45:46.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Dan's comment - the right sized socket and a bigger bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd allow the car to cool, then using a 6-sided socket of the correct size on a 12&quot; solid bar, crack off the seal on the plug. As with any stuck bolt, a short, sharp shock (e.g. kicking the end of the bar with your boot) is usually better than prolonged torque, which tends to be the cause of stripped heads. Once you've got it out, replace with a new, undamaged plug (and new crush washer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do my oil changes with the engine warm for the same reason you cite, the oil is a bit thinner and so flows better - particularly in the winter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: As always, if you're not sure, take it to the shop - they'll do the same thing, but if they break it, it's their fault instead of yours ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T15:45:46.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5072" CreationDate="2013-01-04T16:42:02.877" Score="1" ViewCount="7222" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the last couple of winters, my alloy wheels are getting quite corroded, and one of them has large flakes of the surface missing, and almost a bubbling effect in the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnUcb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpBUE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read on other questions here that I could start to lose air pressure due to a poor seal so I'm assuming that at some point I need to either replace or get them sanded and re-coated, but how serious is this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I do it now, or is it something that is not a major issue other than a cosmetic one for now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T19:42:21.900" Title="Alloy wheel corrosion damage - do I need new wheels?" Tags="|wheels|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2013-01-04T17:35:47.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any vehicle (as equipped from the factory) that increases the idle speed to compensate for a large draw on the battery. If the alternator starts bogging the engine down then the computer should compensate to &lt;strong&gt;maintain&lt;/strong&gt; the set idle speed but not make it increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to find out if the alternator will put out enough current at idle to run the light. With the light turned on and the engine at idle check the voltage at the battery. If the voltage is 12.6 or higher then alternator is putting out enough current to run the electrical loads. If the voltage falls below 12.6 volts the alternator is not putting out enough current to run the electrical loads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your alternator doesn't put out enough at idle you have a couple of options install a high idle device to raise the RPM. Install a larger amp alternator, there may be a larger one available from your parts store or you can have your alternator rebuilt to a higher amp version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other options to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard wire the inverter and put an outlet that's easy to access from the bed of the truck. Then you could just clamp the light on the roll bar (or wherever) and plug it in whenever you wanted to used it. This would eliminate any issues with vibration causing the light to prematurely fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the price of fuel and the unnecessary wear on the engine you could consider a small generator. Honda makes a small quiet 1000 watt generator that would work great for this application. Some of them have a Halogen flood light attached already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already suggested you could use a 12 volt light to get the same effect. LED lights are expensive but they will have a lower amp draw for the same amount of light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T17:35:47.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2013-01-04T18:40:05.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TPMS in my 2008 Subaru Forester uses sensors attached to the valve stems.  The OEM part number is 28103AG01C. Each has a built-in radio transmitter, operating at 315 MHz, powered by an integrated battery that sends coded signals to a received in the car. The sensor also has a motion detector, and shuts down when the wheel isn't moving, in order to save battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either low tire pressure, or a low sensor battery condition, or lack of a signal from one or more wheels, will trigger the dashboard light. In very cold weather, the batteries integrated into these sensors have reduced performance, so they may trigger an alarm even if tire pressure is perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always a good idea to check tire pressure periodically.  If the light comes on when it is very cold, check tire pressures.  If they are OK, wait for the temperature to warm up.  It the TPMS light stays on, there is a system problem.  One tire advisor told me that the batteries in these sensors last about 10 years, so if you have to replace one (and you’ve had the car for about 10 years, and plan to keep it), you may as well replace all four. The parts cost $40 to $75 each (so, times 4 for all 4 wheels), depending on where you buy it, plus installation labor, which requires unmounting and remounting each tire, so it isn't a cheap repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2570" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T11:19:01.627" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T11:19:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5069" CreationDate="2013-01-04T19:42:21.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The potential loss of air pressure is only going to happen if you have corrosion in the area where the tyre bead seats against the wheel, not if you have surface corrosion on the outside. If the corrosion on the outside is causing air loss, the wheel is toast, but the corrosion you have on your wheel doesn't look like it's anywhere near this bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would get these wheels refurbished sooner rather than later simply to ensure a longer wheel life (plus an improved cosmetic appearance) and prevent further corrosion around the tyre bead area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T19:42:21.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T20:19:07.837" Score="2" ViewCount="3506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new alternator for my jeep that says 160amps at 2k rpm.  Is this rating for the pulley rpm on the alternator - or is it the rpm of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the pulley is spinning slower than that RPM how can I approximate the output when it is not at 2k rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T05:24:36.723" Title="Is alternator rating at pulley rpm or engine rpm?" Tags="|alternator|belt|rpm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T21:46:46.377" Score="4" ViewCount="19606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have included a picture showing what I have now on this Suburban. Note that there is wiring not shown in the picture which is a second electrical connection to the positive side of the battery heading downward, separate from the connection you see which heads to the fuse (shown in the right side of the picture) mounted near the front of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you have a same-model Suburban with the factory/correct setup, you could send a picture as an answer, rather than trying to decode my setup and see if I am fixing it right.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle was fine until installation of a dual-battery setup. This was problematic, and since has been removed. It seems the fuse was part of that (mostly) removed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vsqi2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Incorrect 1998 Suburban Battery/Alternator Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was that the vehicle was not receiving enough power from the battery to start the engine. Our working theory is that the battery was not receiving sufficient power from the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We want to finish removing the old setup by taking this back to factory state. Before proceeding, I want to get some confirmation from you guys that we are planning it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is this right? What do you need to know from me to make a determination? I am primarily noticing that gray wire on the left which is not attached to anything. I found it completely covered and tied down with black electrical tape, which I removed for purpose of this picture. It was folded over backwards just like that, not connected to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtcvP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; Actually, that gray cable looks like it may have been added after the fact, based on pictures on the internet of similar-model alternator replacement jobs. So I am not planning on taping it back up again. I plan on putting the gray cable back in its tape and leaving it disconnected. The rest of my drawing is still part of the plan, and I will proceed when the engine cools down. I also plan to clean the connection to the alternator while I'm at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; Furthermore, I am missing something else, looks like the tech didn't do me any favors. There should be a pro red rubber boot over the positive connection, and something filling these screw holes, just like Larry remembers seeing on a Yukon. (see comments, there should be some kind of fuse box here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6A5gI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="2571" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T20:58:48.947" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T08:13:46.430" Title="What is the correct/factory wiring for a Suburban 1998 battery/alternator?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2013-01-04T23:44:35.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternators aren't built for one engine so the manufacturer can't possibly know the gearing / ratio between the alternator and the engine. Therefore the RPM listed in the spec will be the RPM for the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the alternators RPM you will need to find the diameter of the alternator pully [a] and the one connected to (presumably) the crankshaft [c]. Then do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ratio = [c] ÷ [a]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternator RPM = Engine RPM * Ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how to accurately estimate power output, but I can tell you it will be probably be curved not linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastEditorUserId="1486" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T23:52:38.393" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T23:52:38.393" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2013-01-05T13:30:17.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have is the very same issue many Ford Escape owner's have: A leaking timing chain cover. My 2003 V6 is in the same boat. This is a small and somewhat annoying leak due to the fact it drips onto the exhaust and causes that oil burning smell and sometimes visible smoke coming from the right front side of the car. What I hate the most is shutting of the air (heat or AC) when I come to a stop, just so I do not have to smell it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get my Escape serviced every 5,000 miles (oil changed) at the local Ford Express Quick Lane at my local dealer. The guys there said it would be more cost effective to just let it remain. (They see a lot of these!) There is a lot of hours of work to replace the cover's gasket. With nearly 170K on my 2003 and recently having the transmission replaced (not happpy and big $), I will let this leak continue. It will not hurt to do so. Every time they change my oil, they will just shoot some engine degreaser on that area and clean it for me at every service, so that holds off the smell for most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a drip pan in my garage, even though the leak is small. You can purchase from you local parts store. Actually, I just purchased a can of engine degreaser and will clean it when required. I would still check your oil levels from time to time, depending on how often you have your oil changed. My leak is small enough that my levels never get too low between services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2574" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T11:18:54.030" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T11:18:54.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2013-01-05T16:29:59.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, we could end up with a list of quesses that would be very long.  You really need to provide more information here.  Was the engine light coming on at any point?  Sounds like you may have multiple problems here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two weeks of not running right is interesting.  That almost sounds like fuel pump or clogged fuel filter issues.  Have you checked into that?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T16:29:59.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-05T21:20:27.850" Score="6" ViewCount="6807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you explain what this yellow thing is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1kwf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T02:01:54.133" Title="What is this? Hanging out of my wiring, with yellow wrapping - a testing port maybe?" Tags="|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2013-01-05T21:51:07.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now only own new 2006+ or old 1970's chevys. But on my old ones there is a terminal block in front of the battery mounted to the radiator support. In some cases I have seen them also mounted to the inside of the fender. That wire in question has a stake-on/crimp connector that attaches a wire from the terminal block to the battery. This wire is how the alternator charged the battery and how the vehicle got electrical power. Since there is an age difference I can't say that yours has the same purpose. It is also possible that the cable was replaced with a generic one that includes this wire but it is not used on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T21:51:07.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5074" CreationDate="2013-01-05T22:02:54.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This site  &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ASEMaster35yrs/2011-09-27_090930_98_suburban_wiring_diagram.jpgshow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ASEMaster35yrs/2011-09-27_090930_98_suburban_wiring_diagram.jpgshow&lt;/a&gt; a diagram. It show that wire as a fusible link attached to a red wire from the alternator. A fusible link is a wire of a smaller gauge than the circuit it protects. It acts like a fuse but is more difficult to replace as it usually melts to open the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T22:02:54.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5081" CreationDate="2013-01-06T02:01:54.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy a replacement battery cable they come with additional wires with crimp connectors on them for applications that require it. That way the aftermarket supplier can make one part number fit several vehicles. Take the picture below it fits vehicles that have a side post battery and need a 45 inch length. The extra wire may or may not be required depending on the application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXi9K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since some vehicles come from the factory with additional wire(s) attached to the battery cables this gives you a place to hook up the additional wire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case it may have been intended to hook to the wire that goes to the alternator but with the rewiring it may not have been used that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T02:01:54.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-06T19:05:04.377" Score="0" ViewCount="4013" Body="&lt;p&gt;My SUV (Mitsubishi Outlander Elegance automatic) has the ability to switch between four-wheel and front-wheel drive at any time during operation with a little dial next to the handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that I can somehow &quot;perceive&quot; a difference in where the drive power comes from when I switch between these two modes, but with my car's frame being a rigid body my intuition tells me that this shouldn't be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physically speaking, how could the power from the front and back wheels be transmitted through the chassis in such a way that I can actually &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; that drive power is coming from the back wheels (&quot;floating&quot; me along the road) and not just the front wheels (&quot;pulling&quot; me along the road)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I specifically mean when I'm travelling at a steady, low speed in a straight line over an even surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1546" OwnerDisplayName="Lightness Races in Orbit" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T16:18:57.837" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T19:32:10.613" Title="If I can feel the difference between two-wheel and four-wheel drive, am I imagining it?" Tags="|4wd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2013-01-06T19:24:09.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should feel very different! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cornering the difference is at it's greatest. Instead of the general understeer a front wheel drive car will trend to do through a corner because traction is broken relatively easily when accelerating through a corner, you will expect a four wheel drift as all four wheels will be able to break traction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating, front wheels will lose traction as the weight shifts backwards, whereas the back wheels will grip better as they load up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much difference under braking, although engine braking feels a little different as all four wheels slow you rather than just two... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" OwnerDisplayName="Rory Alsop" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T19:24:09.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5089" CreationDate="2013-01-06T22:50:55.523" Score="3" ViewCount="5502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a classic car with a bench that only has a lap belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of replacing the whole belt system (newer 3 point seat belt), are there any options to install just the upper body restraint, in addition to what is already there? Or is this a sloppy solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T01:16:45.807" Title="How do I install a shoulder belt if it already has a lap belt?" Tags="|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5088" CreationDate="2013-01-07T01:16:45.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weasco sells retro fit belts with detailed instruction for 3 point belts&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wescoperformance.com/retrofit-seat-belts-shoulder-mt-door.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wescoperformance.com/retrofit-seat-belts-shoulder-mt-door.html&lt;/a&gt; They include models for convertables and sedans. You can select just the shoulder belt add on or a new complete belt system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T01:16:45.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2013-01-07T07:00:36.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world you shouldn't. However because the the front power train is now engaged you now have more moving parts. More moving parts = more/changed vibration and noises. I would wager what your are perceiving is just normal operational byproducts of the front power train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the front drive train is now connected to the transmission which is connected to the engine. So it's possible you may feel more vibration through the steering wheel. Albeit vary slight increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steering will also feel tighter. I know you are talking about a straight road... but I've never been on a perfectly flat, level, and straight road. I'm guessing might contribute as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TRY THIS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just thought of something. I'm assuming your are the one driving. That might be inducing the placebo effect. So try this. Have someone else drive while you are blindfolded. Then have them start and stop switching on and of the the 4wd without letting you know. Then if you perceive the right mode then you know there really is something different about how the vehicle moves. I would also suggest turning up the stereo when switching modes. That way you can't hear anything engage or disengage. Let us know how it works out!    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastEditorUserId="2378" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T15:29:40.537" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T15:29:40.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2314" CreationDate="2013-01-07T11:48:18.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the correct code was already one of the listed ones, still there is a trick: it seems you are able to put the PIN code only one minute after the device was powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T11:48:18.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T13:51:13.163" Score="2" ViewCount="2178" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Wife's 2003 Honda CR-V's Drive light in the cluster occasionally starts flashing. The manual states that this means that the transmission requires service, but it doesn't do it all the time, and the transmission is not showing any signs of distress (slow shifts, not being able to engage any specific gear, increased noise, ect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What generally causes this? Bad sensor? Just trying to figure out if I need to budget for a trip to the stealership in the next&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2577" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T14:51:16.383" Title="2003 Honda CR-V AWD - intermittently Flashing Drive light" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5045" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:18:14.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be the intermittent failure of an idle speed solenoid. They go by a bazillion different names and have just as many variations. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast Idle Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle-up solenoid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessory Valve/Solenoid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auxiliary Air Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Et cetera...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be, as noted in your comments, an air leak somewhere. Seeing as how it works fine above a certain RPM, I'd be willing to bet it's an idle speed solenoid of some type. Typically air leaks result in poor mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T21:44:11.790" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T21:44:11.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2013-01-07T19:32:10.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original question is still a little light on specifics so I'm going to base the answer on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Outlander#Second_generation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;second generation Outlander&lt;/a&gt; which, as cited, uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_AWC#Outlander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AWC&lt;/a&gt; electronically controlled 4WD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When “4WD Auto” mode is selected, the Outlander's 4WD system always&#xA;  sends some power to the rear wheels, automatically increasing the&#xA;  amount under full throttle acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So selecting this mode immediately changes the torque to the driven wheels, transferring some away from the front wheels and to the back wheels.  This will change the weight transfer of the vehicle under acceleration and engine braking.  This will also induce greater transmission loss as driving four wheels requires more interacting moving parts than 2WD.  This will be most obvious under engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some important aspects of the original question, however: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I specifically mean when I'm travelling at a steady, low speed in a&#xA;  straight line over an even surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the real world, there is no such thing as a straight line over an even surface outside of an auto-testing facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;but with my car's frame being a rigid body my intuition tells me that&#xA;  this shouldn't be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car is not a rigid body.  Nothing about a car is truly rigid, &lt;em&gt;including&lt;/em&gt; the frame.  Remember, you are riding around on a system of linear and torsion springs, the oscillations of which are all damped differently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, given all of the above, it is also important to remark on one of the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I seem to be able to perceive through my bottom on the chair that the&#xA;  power is coming from the back as well as the front&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is critical to remember that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=butt-dyno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;butt dyno&lt;/a&gt; is well documented as the least accurate instrument in the vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T19:32:10.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-08T00:06:45.510" Score="5" ViewCount="9698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Nissan Altima. I had to change my radiator recently because it developed some cracks on the top of the tank and I would have to refill the tank every few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I changed the radiator I also changed the thermostat and the two radiator hoses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing the radiator my car started to misfire or die for a split second and come back when I would accelerate while the engine was still cold. This would happen all the way up to until it was at normal operating temperatures. When the tempature gauge needle is around the middle it stops misfiring during acceleration. The engine also takes a bit longer to warm up now in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think i possibly failed CA smog because of this problem too. Since my car is misfiring possibly because of high chamber temperatures which increase my NOx. I specifically failed because of the NO test. These were my results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CO2    O2   HC   CO    NO&#xA;14.7   0.1  49   0.23  950  15mph &#xA;14.6   0.1  37   0.18  700  25mph &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, what do you think what went wrong after I changed my radiator? Because it did not do this before the change only after. Any tips advice on what to do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T14:27:44.510" Title="Changed radiator, now have misfiring?" Tags="|maintenance|nissan|coolant|radiator|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5313" CreationDate="2013-01-08T04:18:47.277" Score="5" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Buick Regal that I installed a Viper 4103XV remote starter [3/4 installed, anyway :)] and XpressKit PLJX bypass module in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've yet to be able to get it to start consistently is the #1 issue that I've got. Usually after programming the bypass module it'll remote start a few times, and then it just decides it doesn't want to any more. &lt;strong&gt;The remote starter will try to start the car, but when voltage is applied to the starter circuit, nothing happens - this is why I suspect the bypass module as the culprit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;---Lately even after programming the bypass it won't start. Still will if I just insert the key either before [still don't have to turn the key at all], or while it's attempting to start, but if it's not in there then nothing happens.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite stumped at this point. The bypass says after programming to connect the brown ground wire to the &quot;ground output on the remote starter&quot; although the 4103XV's wiring guide isn't at all clear about what wire that is. I'd think it's either the status wire on the satellite harness, or the orange &quot;ground when locked&quot; wire in the main harness, but I just don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it'll start with the key in and not turned I'd think it may be the keysense wire, but I tried hooking that up [perhaps incorrectly] and it didn't seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite desperate for help as I'd really prefer to not have to take it to a shop to get it done since I've got the vast majority of it done successfully myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Sootah&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2580" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T18:24:49.327" Title="Remote Starter/Bypass Module Issue - 1999 Buick Regal [Viper 4103XV and XpressKit PLJX Bypass]" Tags="|starting|starter|security|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5073" CreationDate="2013-01-08T05:04:57.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I'm going to a assume that your Jeep is set up for wheeling and has a big wench, 6 KC lights up top, and rock lights in on each wheel. So you have a large electrical load and don't want to kill your battery. Here is what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the alternator while listing to the radio (we want to run your battery down a little.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook up a Induction Meter to the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the Jeep and make sure you see current going in to the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn everything on, I mean everything the A/C, lights, radio, wench, everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is still current going into the battery, your good. Move the meter to the back of the alternator. That's not the max, but the draw of all your stuff plus the power going to the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is current going out of the battery. Move the meter to the back of the alternator. That is the max output. Time to buy a bigger unit. Or install a second one. ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook up a meter the alt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook up a battery load tester.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the Jeep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn up the load on the battery tester and take note of the max output on the alt. Just don't hold the load for more then a few seconds!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a meter or a load tester. Let it be known I don't recommend this approach and you are at your own risk if you do this. Computers and regulators really don't like this and might let there smoke out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the alternator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the Jeep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn everything on, I mean everything the A/C, lights, radio, wench, everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Jeep is still running you are okay reconnect the battery. If not you need a bigger alt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastEditorUserId="2378" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T05:24:36.723" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T05:24:36.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2013-01-08T05:16:26.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did the car ever overheat? If so, look at your oil. The head gasket could have gone bad, and the crack was easier for the leak to use than the head. Also, you should pressure test the system and see if it hold for more than 15-30 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T05:16:26.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2013-01-08T13:13:01.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things I've tried in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a 10 pound sledge to a stuck rim (if there is no intention of keeping the rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go for a drive over the railroad tracks a few times with loosened lug nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak it in liquid wrench, wd40, or something my garage uses called &quot;nutbuster&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do donuts into curbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2581" LastEditorUserId="569" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T20:16:57.170" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T20:16:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2013-01-08T21:16:54.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a temp sensor mounted in the radiator? If the temp sensor is faulty it may be sending a &quot;warmed up&quot; signal to the engine control module. This will cancel the &quot;run rich&quot; I am cold signal. The result could be rough idle when cold. A possible clue that this is the case is if the electric fans start immediately even when the engine is cold,this could also explain the longer warmup times. If the radiator has a metal tank where the sensor mounts it may supply the ground for the sensor. Over application of teflon/threadsealer tape could open this ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T21:16:54.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5110" CreationDate="2013-01-08T21:18:31.357" Score="4" ViewCount="16115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Yaris Verso (2000) and one of the screws holding the driver-side window fell out. As a result, the scissor mechanism of the motorized window adjuster was bent slightly before I was able to put the screw back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's working again, except that when closing the windows, it will travel all the way up, but then pull back 10cm. My suspicion is that this is a safety feature of the window adjuster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what makes the motor stop, and possibly pull back? How does it know that the window is fully closed (so it stops but doesn't pull back), versus stopping and pulling back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I've found the following information in the repair manual (&amp;quot;HOW TO RESET POWER WINDOW MOTOR&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the power window motor (Hint: Place the matchmarks on the power window motor and window regulator gear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the power window motor and power window switch to wire harness of the vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition switch ON and operate the power window switch to idle the power window motor in UP side direction for more than 6 rotations or less than 10 rotates (4 seconds or more).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble the power window motor and regulator. (Hint: - Install the motor when the regulator arm is below the middle point. - Align the matchmarks on the power window motor and window regulator gear.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble the power window regulator and door glass. (Hint: - Never rotate the motor to the down direction until the completion of the window glass installation.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect power window switch to wire harness and turn the ignition switch ON.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat UP and DOWN operation several times manually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if AUTO UP -&amp;gt; AUTO DOWN operates in automatic operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to disassemble everything just to reset the jam protection?? And in point 3, what exactly do I need to do? It says &amp;quot;&amp;gt; 6 rotations&amp;quot; OR &amp;quot;&amp;lt; 10 rotations&amp;quot; (&amp;gt;4s). That doesn't make sense - this means I can do whatever I want as long as it takes &amp;gt;4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what &amp;quot;matchmarks&amp;quot; are they talking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T05:52:32.710" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T05:52:32.710" Title="Adjust window end position?" Tags="|toyota|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2013-01-09T00:05:12.327" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOT 4 also absorbs less water than DOT 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry Larry) DOT 5 &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; compatible with DOT 3 &amp;amp; 4 systems but old fluid should be completely flushed out with DOT 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT 5 is &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; compatible with anti-lock brakes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2582" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:05:12.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5074" CreationDate="2013-01-09T06:32:36.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the schematic showing how the mega fuse should be wired in, you obviously don't have the second battery option but that mega fuse is on vehicles with only one battery as well. You can tell for sure by checking the option label (approx 3x5 inch white label with black writing with a bunch of 3 digit codes) in the glove box. If you have ZM9 listed then you have the mega fuse from the factory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ZM9: Sales Package Comfort and Convenience (Utility/Suburban Feature&#xA;  Package)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Risho.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it's showing on the starting system schematic, it's clear it's on single battery systems too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lt8az.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ZM9 then the schematic below is for you vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MQP56.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think yours did come from the factory with the mega fuse and would put it in the original mounting place. That will probably take up the extra slack in the cables you were talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a drawing that shows how the wires are routed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kc5A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have included this drawing because it's clearer but shows a double fuse that you don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7EdW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the grey wire coming out of the plug-in for the alternator. I have no idea, GM only used one of the wires on gas engines, the second wire is for the tachometer on diesel engines. Maybe at some point someone replaced the alternator plug. I would do as you suggested and not connect it to anything. I have included the picture you posted in the comments for clarification for other readers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC7Ha.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T06:32:36.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-09T13:00:34.407" Score="3" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Grand Am is cutting off randomly while driving. I have not been able to purposely reproduce the problem, which makes diagnosis difficult. I am looking for any advice in diagnostics, or parts to test first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will run normally 99% of the time. Without warning, the electrical cuts out and the engine stalls. This has happened at low speed and highway speed, while turning or while going straight down the road. There are no engine error codes, no dash warning lights, and no other indication of what occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each incident, the car can usually be restarted immediately. Twice, I got a single &quot;click&quot; and no start -- turning the key off and trying again started the car in both of those occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested that I check the wiring harness, which I have done by aggressively wiggling and pulling on various engine connections and wires while the car is running -- no results. It has also been suggested that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty or the harness is damaged. Visually, there are no problems with the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is not equipped with any remote starter, and does not have any after-market security systems. The stock security system is what I gather to be the most basic one. The security light has never lit, and I am not certain that it CAN light (not used?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary: What should I be checking? Is the crankshaft position sensor a likely candidate here for the problem? I don't want to invest in parts and labor if there's no possible way this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T22:18:38.673" Title="2000 Grand AM GT engine and electric cut out randomly while driving" Tags="|engine|electrical|grand-am|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5108" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:04:08.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember this issue fondly from my Dad's old Grand Am!  It would randomly start to lose power while driving (electrical would act like it was at reduced power, engine would start to cut out).  A couple times it shut off completely on us and we coasted to a stop before getting it to restart.  In our case the fix was a new ignition switch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T14:04:08.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5103" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:52:02.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, as the reset procedure requires the motor to turn freely through between 6 and 10 revolutions - without being connected to the window mechanism etc. you prehaps don't need to remove it from the door, but you will need to ensure it is disconnected from the mechanism, and this could be easiest if it is removed entirely. You will also be able to count revolutions etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point 3 is very specific. You need to let it turn between 6 and 10 rotations - which should be 4 or more seconds. I would assume from the instructions that you should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; let it turn more than 10 revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The marks mentioned are for your benefit. Before removing, draw on marks to show exactly where the moving parts are relative to each other and to the door. This way you will be able to make sure the motor is back in the correct orientation, and that the regulator and mechanism are in the correct position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T14:52:02.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2044" CreationDate="2013-01-09T19:26:28.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to have the same experience as you when sitting in my 1998 Honda Accord after it has been shut off.  The humming sound lasts 5-6 seconds, and it can be 5 to 10 minutes apart.  The noise is definitely coming from underneath the car ahead of the rear wheels, not from the engine.  I have also noticed that I have never heard the noise in the winter, only in the 70-110F range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From people I've talked to, it could be a part of the EVAP system, (located at the rear of the car on '98 Accords, possibly yours too) venting excess pressure from the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you heard it coming on more frequently in 110F weather could make sense because air expands at high temperatures; therefore, the pump goes off more often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the EVAP system for the &lt;em&gt;6th generation Honda Accord&lt;/em&gt;.  I also went and looked at pictures of the &lt;em&gt;7th generation Accord&lt;/em&gt;, and the &lt;em&gt;2nd generation Acura TL&lt;/em&gt;.  All three pictures showed the same location of the &quot;EVAP canister vent shut valve&quot;, ahead of the gas tank and under the floor of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87oFf.png&quot; alt=&quot;EVAP system&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture: JustAnswer.Honda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="2589" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T02:42:03.950" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T02:42:03.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2775" CreationDate="2013-01-09T21:01:56.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Myself and my wife both have Ford Focus '07.  In Ireland, so same as UK model. Both of us have had this problem this winter, temp falls below zero, key fob allows door to unlock, and the handle action opens the lock, but it is too frozen to close. In her case holding it and running sitcom worked quickly. In mine I had to wait a lot longer.  Seems like a known issue with Ford! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great advice from previous posters, will wd40 our locks this weekend in case of another January freeze&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2590" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T01:57:34.577" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T01:57:34.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2013-01-10T03:54:14.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the breaker bar and ignition method.  I disabled the engine by pulling the fuel injector fuse.  Car cranks but doesn't start.  I put the breaker bar and 19mm impact socket in place, made contact with the frame and the breaker bar, and duct taped everything in place.  One second on the ignition key and the bolt is loose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tighten, get the 50mm crankshaft bolt tool from PepBoys,(no charge if you return it within 5 days), put some locktite glue on the threads, and torque the bolt tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T03:54:14.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5118" CreationDate="2013-01-10T14:50:45.443" Score="2" ViewCount="4294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 4 cylinder 2001 Honda Accord LX and recently my check engine light turned on. The code was for the EVAP system, but I was wary of having it repaired immediately. I see 3 problems with a problem in the EVAP system, and they are a &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; reduced fuel efficiency, an inability to pass emission tests that no one tests for, and a check engine light that is on. However, before I could make a decision of whether or not to fix the system, the light turned off. The same thing happened last winter around this time, and the battery was never disconnected in either case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be a problem with my CEL and the computers that operate it? If not, why did the CEL turn itself off twice now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are my assumptions for the problems associated with a failing EVAP system accurate? And if not, what is a more accurate synopsis of the problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those assumptions are accurate, would it probably be cheaper in the long run to simply turn off the codes relating to EVAP than actually repairing it? A small leak of gasoline vapor over a 5 year period doesnt seem like it would be more expensive than a couple hundred of dollars in parts and labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2594" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:57:00.587" Title="EVAP System or faulty CEL?" Tags="|cel|evap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5117" CreationDate="2013-01-10T15:14:02.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cars' computer runs tests on the emission systems on the car. When the car fails the test it turns on the light, if it passes the test after that it turns off the light. You may have something that is close to failing the parameters set by the OEM. A small leak that's just on the edge of passing. Something like temperature changes, or vibration could cause it to fail only sometimes. In the case of the EVAP system you may have left the gas cap loose which would have set a code. The next time you filled up and tighten the cap and the computer ran the test and it passed it would have turned out the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for you other question you can't just turn off the codes, if it fails you will have to get it repaired in order to turn out the light. Now depending on the inspection laws where you are at you could just ride around with the light on and not worry about it if you don't want to fix it. If it's required for inspection you will have to repair it or get a waiver to pass inspection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T15:14:02.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5120" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:41:02.083" Score="10" ViewCount="6927" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I had a tire blowout.  When I visited a tire shop (Costco Tire Center) afterward, the person there told me that my tires are under-rated for my vehicle.  My vehicle is a Honda Accord 2002, which Costco's computer says requires a V rating.  The tire that blew out has an H rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had the previous tires installed (at Sam's Club), they did not mention speed ratings.  I just trusted them to do the right thing.  Now Costco's rep says that my blowout is typical for an under-rated tire.  Specifically, he told me that a lower speed rating means weaker sidewalls, so the chance for a blowout like this increases.  He continued that my Accord's suspension is tuned for a certain speed rating, so even if I don't reach V speeds, it's still important for my tires to be V-rated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive on a curvy highway twice a day, so I do a lot of turning/curving at 60-70 mph, so I can see how this might be a challenge for tire sidewalls.  (The tire blew out on that highway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you agree with the claim that a lower speed rating can lead to blowouts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MVPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire blowout&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T07:56:34.453" Title="Can my tire blowout be attributed to a lower speed rating?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2013-01-10T20:48:25.767" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Info provided by COSTCO is on paper correct, if you were say using a tire with a speed rating of 118 mph (T), and you were in Germany cruising at 140 mph, the tire could overheat and cause this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in your case, you just had a flat tire driven on flat. If they check the tread, area, or the valve stem, from the take-off tire, they will find the puncture that caused the initial lost of air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:48:25.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5117" CreationDate="2013-01-10T20:57:00.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt anything is wrong with your powertrain controller.  It sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to, monitoring the EVAP system and throwing codes when it sees a problem.  The problem went away or the check engine light would not have gone off.  Some trouble codes can be self resolved like that (so many drive cycles without a problem, the light goes out), others are more permanent (light stays on until reset).  Either way, there is still a stored trouble code waiting to be pulled whether the light is on or not (unless the battery is disconnected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the impact of an EVAP leak, reduced fuel economy sounds plausible.  Most modern emissions tests, where required, are moving towards simply connecting to the diagnostic port and confirming that the emissions monitoring is occurring and there are no trouble codes.  The check engine light being on is an automatic fail just about everywhere.  A stored code, whether or not the light is on, may be a fail depending on the locality and how extensively they test.  Modifying your powertrain controller to not monitor the EVAP system is not going to be easy, and I doubt it's legal anyway.  You might not get caught, but the risk/reward profile does not make sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the real reason you want to fix the problem, though.  If you get used to having that light on and ignoring it, you're going to miss a real problem.  Unless you plug in a diagnostic tool periodically to confirm no new codes have appeared.  It's a lot easier to just look for a leak in a rubber hose and fix it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple EVAP leaks fixed by a shop.  One I wasn't even charged for, they just replaced or patched a short piece of hose (I was paying for other work, though).  One involved replacing a valve near the fuel tank.  The latter one was a couple hundred bucks in parts and labor.  That's probably the worst case as long as parts are available.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get that code pulled and see what the problem is.  If it's just a simple leak, you might be able to fix it yourself for next to nothing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:57:00.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5045" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:29:53.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for vacuum hoses that are torn, disconnected, or missing.  You brake system relies on vacuum and an idle speed that is affected by holding the brakes probably has a weak vacuum.  You can get a cheap gauge at an auto part place that will quickly tell you if you are in spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:29:53.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5133" CreationDate="2013-01-11T11:11:53.990" Score="3" ViewCount="4843" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother-in-law drove over this morning to pick up my wife, and when they tried to leave the car wouldn't start.  Not only that; the horn honked, the wipers started, the trunk popped open, and the brights turned on.  It did not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a grounding problem, or is there some simpler solution?  If it's a grounding problem, how do I locate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastEditorUserId="2601" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T15:40:57.600" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T00:20:43.463" Title="2008 Pontiac Grand Prix Fails to Start and Electronics Go Awry" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|pontiac|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4296" CreationDate="2013-01-11T20:06:05.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned a GB400 for 9 years now, and it have never given me any trouble. I travel 1400 km a month on mine. It has done 84000 km. Great bike. I only had the timing chain replaced. Remember to grease the swing arm and check oil within a couple of minutes of turning engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2603" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T23:50:09.940" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T23:50:09.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5127" CreationDate="2013-01-13T00:44:05.763" Score="3" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;All 3 brake lights on my Prelude seem to be permanently stuck on. This occurs all of the time - the lights stay on even if there is no key in the ignition. I've had to disconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know of a way to fix this? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T01:06:52.187" Title="Brake lights on '94 Honda Prelude stuck on" Tags="|electrical|honda|brakes|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5126" CreationDate="2013-01-13T01:06:52.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow the brake pedal arm up under the dash. This may require some plastic trim to be removed. Looking up you should find a switch that is activated by the brake pedal arm. This switch may have failed or fallen out of the mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T01:06:52.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5131" CreationDate="2013-01-13T08:05:41.410" Score="27" ViewCount="182926" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s mentioned in the user manual of my motorbike, that when not using the vehicle, I should turn the petrol tap (the one that has three positions “On”, “Off” and “Reserve”) to “Off” position. I don’t understand why that’s necessary (and I need to understand that for my own knowledge and because my brother won't do it unless I can give him a convincing reason)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So three questions:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it because petrol may evaporate or flow to the engine un-necessarily when the vehicle is parked and not used for a while (like overnight or just for an hour or two)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it recommended to always turn off the petrol tap whenever I park my vehicle somewhere or just when I park it in the garage for the night?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, as an additional related question: Why do some people drive their bikes with the petrol tap always kept on “Reserve”? My uncle does it, but refuses to explain it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T23:49:34.427" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T21:55:38.127" Title="Why should the fuel petcock valve be turned to “Off” position when not using the vehicle?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|parking|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2013-01-13T11:37:24.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary reason for shutting off the fuel is safety. On a motorcycle the fuel tank is directly above the engine. If fuel were to leak it would drip directly on the hot engine. This along with the fact that most motorcycles use a rubber supply hose that is exposed to the engine heat and the resulting decomposition. On an automobile the fuel is usually isolated from the heat and transfered from the tank to the engine via a steel line. The fuel shut off has three positions run,reserve and off. The difference between run and reserve is the length of the fuel delivery tube that brings fuel out of the tank. The &quot;normal&quot; run tube rises about 35mm from the bottom of the tank. This means that when it stops delivering fuel approx 35mm of fuel left in the tank. The &quot;reserve&quot; setting fuel pickup is at the lowest level of the tank. It will flow fuel until the tank is empty. Some riders feel that using the &quot;reserve&quot; setting uses the fuel at the bottom of the tank preventing water from accumulating which could result in the tank rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T11:37:24.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2013-01-14T14:21:52.450" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is that motorcycles traditionally have the fuel tank higher than the carburetor, and the fuel feeds with gravity alone. What risks does this introduce that necessitates a manual shutoff? Without the shutoff, if the carburetor float failed to close the valve tightly enough to stop the fuel flow, then gas would continue to trickle into the carb, overflowing the bowl and flowing down into the intake tract. If the intake valve were open, it would fill the cylinder. Then, upon attempting to start the motor, the incompressible liquid gasoline would cause a catastrophic &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock&quot;&gt;hydraulic lock&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More modern motorcycles have changed some of this in a few ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fuel petcock could be vacuum operated, closing with the engine off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fuel tank could be lower than the carbs, making a fuel pump necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel injection has eliminated the use of carburetors and floats to control fuel flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T02:38:41.230" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:38:41.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2013-01-14T15:40:03.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A computer reset fixed the problem.  I find this somewhat disconcerting that the computer could execute such ridiculous commands based off a turned key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T15:40:03.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5141" CreationDate="2013-01-14T19:43:15.180" Score="4" ViewCount="2789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Skoda Octavia 5 1.6 MPI and I want to make a good cheap safe tuning that will increase the cars performance above 100 hp it already has. How can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T18:55:53.217" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:11:38.933" Title="How can I do a cheap but safe and good tuning which will improve the cars performance?" Tags="|engine|parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-14T22:15:24.937" Score="3" ViewCount="10295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got Toyota FJ Cruiser 2010 Automatic, 4x4 full stock (no warranty, I live in Central Europe). I have strange transmission issues. I had already spent 2,5 years of life and about 2500$ just to diagnose the problem, but so far nothing. The problems started when I've got only 3000 km on the odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the problem(s) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shifting between all gears occurs with jerks. It occurs when gears up-shift or down-shift. But phenomenon is inconsistent. One time you can accelerate, and get rough shifting between all gears to achieve 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; gear (or down-shifts while slowing down). Next time when you accelerate you get rough shifting only between 1-2, 2-3 and 4-5 gears or all together (or any other combination). Next time there maybe no problems at all: absolutely smooth up-shifting. Any combination is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you depress gas pedal while moving at any speed and then press it again (even very gently and slowly): there will be jerk forward. Driving car in traffic jam became nearly impossible for me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard engine braking. It occurs even when road goes downhill. When I shift to neutral car immediately goes faster. So the problem is not in brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard kick down. For example when I drive at 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; gear (70 mph) and do kick down, transmission is trying to go through all gears while down-shifting. I mean that there is no shifting from 5&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; to 3&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt; when kick down occurs (normally). It tries to shift 5-4-3.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When my car stops on steep incline it easily rolls back. Even when compared with other FJs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold or hot weather, cold or hot engine and transmission, sunny or snowy — all the same, problem is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I had already done to diagnose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked transmission oil level many times — normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full computer diagnostics — no error codes, nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset ECM (ECU) memory many times — nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked all sensors in transmission using Techstream program — nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed transmission oil and filter on 20000 km (all OEM) — nothing. Oil was very clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked transmission oil pressure — nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked engine gasoline system pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked brakes and ABS system many times. Changed brake fluid. Checked parking brake — nothing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed spark plugs (OEM).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleared MAF sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleared injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleared and checked throttle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked and greased Cardan shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgraded ECM software — all the problems gone! But in 25 minutes all happened again and still present.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bought and installed new ECM — and again only 25 minutes of happiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HELP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:10:44.373" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T14:49:31.437" Title="Toyota FJ Cruiser transmission problem" Tags="|toyota|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4703" CreationDate="2013-01-14T22:33:51.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the belt tensioner. Note that the bearing can make noise while it is still performing correctly, maintaining tension on the belt. So the fact that the belt is new and that has proper tension does not exclude the possibility that the tensioner bearing is noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that while the tensioner functions now, if it is making noise, it could fail at some point in the future. Possibly even the near future, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotiveforums.com/t1067597-discuss97_riv__belt_tensioner_pulley_noisy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this person&lt;/a&gt; discovered. (If that link disappears, the person asked a similar question on July 10th, and on July 30th posted a followup to report that the tensioner failed while driving, throwing off the belt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T22:33:51.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5098" CreationDate="2013-01-15T00:00:57.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try calling omega tech on their version  (the ib-pljx) at 800 554 4053&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2612" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T00:00:57.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5140" CreationDate="2013-01-15T05:57:09.533" Score="6" ViewCount="16554" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ’97 Toyota 4Runner with automatic transmission is parked head first in a small garage with a dead battery. I need to put it into neutral to push it out on the driveway so I can jump-start it. (This is the same problem as the one in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/793/prius-dead-battery-no-way-to-put-into-neutral&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but unfortunately that answer doesn’t apply to the older Toyotas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, out of curiosity, would there be any safe/effective way to “daisy chain” two sets of jumper cables end to end, or is that just a Darwin Award waiting to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T10:57:18.620" Title="How to put 1997 Toyota 4Runner in neutral with dead battery?" Tags="|toyota|battery|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2013-01-15T06:45:38.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, as it turns out, I found my own answer on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1f1tf-battery-dead-put-corolla-neutral-move-so-jump-it.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To release the shifter you will need to remove the cover for the shift&#xA;  lock release button. Using a small flat blade screw driver pry up on&#xA;  the cover, it is a small square cover located at the front left corner&#xA;  of the shifter area just above the shift position indicator. Once that&#xA;  is removed, apply the brakes and use your finger to push down the&#xA;  release. While holding the release down, shift the transmission into&#xA;  neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2614" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T06:45:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5138" CreationDate="2013-01-15T08:21:44.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the exact instructions from the owner’s manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Nlg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OGdbQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operations are the same except the item number three:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you cannot shift the selector lever out of “P” position to other positions even though the brake pedal is depressed, use the shift lock override button as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition key to “LOCK” position. Make sure the parking brake is set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pry up the cover with a flat-bladed screwdriver or equivalent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;[2WD]: Insert the screwdriver or equivalent into the hole to push up the shift lock override button. You can shift out of “P” position only while pushing the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[4WD]: Insert your finger into the hole to move the shift lock override lever backward. You can shift out of “P” position only while holding back the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shift into “N” position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Start the engine. For your safety, keep the brake pedal depressed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T08:31:46.840" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T08:31:46.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5134" CreationDate="2013-01-15T17:19:51.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Octavia has the same 1.6 MPI engine as in the Volkswagens so, technically, pretty much all the tuning options available to them are available to you.  Given the 10.5:1 compression ratio, however, I would recommend that you keep your expectations low.  There isn't a lot of room for the casual tuner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vendors that I've found generally cite an increase of 10% to power and torque, resulting in a drop from 12 to 11 seconds for 0-100 kph.  Those are marketing numbers, though, so caveat emptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have more luck with the standard replacement of intake, header and exhaust.  If you pick the right gear, you should see a performance bump combined with a weight decrease.  Also, once your engine has better air flow it might be able to combine those changes, high quality fuel and a more aggressive tune to give you a more impressive power improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T14:07:25.153" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T14:07:25.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-15T21:21:51.250" Score="7" ViewCount="9571" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I changed my brake pads (Toyota Tacoma v6 4WD), I did not get my rotors turned and was told I should have taken them to a mechanic to get it done.  I was wondering if there is any alternative to outsourcing the job and why a lathe is needed.  E.g., why couldn't I mount some sort of a cup brush to a 4.5&quot; grinder and just polish them to achieve a similar effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T05:15:26.503" Title="Do I really need a lathe to turn my rotors?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5143" CreationDate="2013-01-16T00:06:18.030" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, accuracy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lathe as used by a mechanic will have the precision required, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the instrumentation available, to ensure the rotors are turned evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be surprised at how much vibration you can get at 70mph from the smallest inconsistencies in rotor height - and how much you lose in stopping power!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T00:06:18.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5143" CreationDate="2013-01-16T00:37:29.297" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The braking surfaces of a rotor require precision machining. The tolerances are in the .002&quot; range. You would never come close without a quality lathe. Each manufacturer also has specifications for minimum total thickness, side to side variance for vented rotors, the smoothness of the finish and run-out which is the difference between the highest and lowest spot on the brake surface. A wire brush won't remove enough material to make any improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that an automotive machine shop may have better prices than your local garage. I have found that in many cases the cost of the labour for the machine work is close to the cost of a new rotor. The abrasive nature of the brake pad material means that many times the rotors will be close to the minimum thickness after they are machined. When the rotor is this thin it is more susceptible to warping. The warping is what causes the pedal pulsation during braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T11:20:11.617" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T11:20:11.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5148" CreationDate="2013-01-16T03:05:23.797" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear lower control arm bushings on my 92 Civic are badly worn and need to be replaced. I've looked into what's involved in replacing them and it looks like a lot more work than I'd like to do, and like it needs a lot more specialty tools than I'd like to buy. I got an estimate from a shop to do the work and it's $600, which is also a lot more than I'd like to spend. Is there any reason not to just replace the whole arms with aftermarket ones, which come with new bushings? If this is the way to go, what should I look for to make sure I get good ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T10:42:15.483" Title="Rear LCA bushings worn out - better to just replace the whole LCA?" Tags="|honda|suspension|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4735" CreationDate="2013-01-16T03:17:32.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tried a lot of things, some of which helped incrementally but didn't fully fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torquing the exhaust manifold nuts to spec.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing the muffler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally took it to a shop for diagnosis and they found that the timing was off and fixed it for barely more than the diagnostic work. Now it seems to be running great. I think it must have just been off by one notch because I can't imagine it even running if it were off by more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T03:17:32.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5146" CreationDate="2013-01-16T10:42:15.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely - I've never done the work on a Civic, but you're probably going to have to take them off to swap the bush. I'm in the UK, but those LCA's are coming in at £100 ea, so at those prices, you could do the work yourself and get shiny new arms and bushes for half the price of what the shop is quoting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, as it's a 20 year old car, I'd just buy whatever arms your local autofactor sells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T10:42:15.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-16T16:40:36.557" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Audi A6 4.2 and just had a new set of tires installed — but purchased the same Continental tires. However, two days after the new tires were installed, I started getting a shimmy when I brake. Would replacing the tires impact the rotors and lead to this shimmy or is it just a coincidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2660" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T19:27:45.160" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T18:53:06.900" Title="2000 Audi A6 4.2 rotors" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6392" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:21:06.473" Score="8" ViewCount="29391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Opel Astra Turbo Coupe. I would imagine most of you guys are more familiar with the Vauxhall or Holden badge, but it's the same car with the same Z20LET Turbo Ecotec engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, when driving, the turbo kicks in at 2500 rpm, as usual, but when I reach 3500 rpm, I hear what sounds like the wastegate opening, accompanied by a slight loss in power. When I reach 4000 rpm, I hear the wastegate sound again and I lose a lot of power. When this happens, the check engine light comes on. It always happens at exactly the same RPM and if I release and re-engage the accelerator, I get a momentary surge of boost, before the wastegate (or what sounds like a wastegate) opens and I lose power again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had the problem since I bought the car a month ago. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T15:30:00.017" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T01:03:30.980" Title="Turbo losing boost at around 4000 rpm" Tags="|turbocharger|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2013-01-16T21:50:58.370" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the car is suffering from a boost leak - either the plumbing has a leak somewhere or the wastegate doesn't hold pressure properly. Does the car have a boost gauge and if it does, can you see if you're losing boost at the same time you get the noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you'll have a hard time hearing the wastegate if it's an OEM one as they all normally vent into the inlet tract rather than the athmosphere, so the first thing I'd check is if it has an aftermarket wastegate (and possibly boost controller). If it doesn't, I'd check the various hoses and pipes first to see if there's any boost leaks (you might have to pressurize the intake side for that) and fix those leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has an aftermarket wastegate, I'd check if it's a decent quality one as the cheap ones are mostly good for weighing down a trash can. If it is a decent quality one, you need to check how it's actuated - there is a chance that you have boost spikes that trigger the wastegate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Thinking about this a bit more, I would start looking at the wastegate side of things first. If it was a boost leak in the piping, you'd normally just lose pressure gradually rather than having the boost build up and then get the &quot;wastegate sneeze&quot;. My checklist would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if it's got an aftermarket wastegate and if it does, check that it's (a) a good quality one and (b) that it's working OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check how the wastegate is actuated and if there's a boost controller somewhere in the mix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably install a boost gauge if the first two steps don't lead you to a fix. What you need to verify is that you're not getting into an overboosting situation or get boost spikes that trigger this behaviour. If you do, you need to address what is causing these problems first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T15:38:45.837" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T15:38:45.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4436" CreationDate="2013-01-17T03:00:15.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1998 Honda Accord sedan that has gone through the same symptoms that you've experienced.  Often I would be driving down the street and, all of a sudden, the engine would just die without any warning at 60 km/h.  It also had extreme difficulty re-starting in hot weather (above 80 F) after it had just been running.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I had the main relay replaced, and the random-stalling-in-motion problem went away.  However, it still struggled to start in hot weather until I replaced the fuel pump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be one of the TSB's for the 1998 Accord concerning the main relay; there is an identical TSB for the 1999:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToNrp.png&quot; alt=&quot;TSB for main relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="2589" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T03:52:00.900" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T03:52:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1924" CreationDate="2013-01-17T06:30:27.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used GL-5 in my rear differential for the past ten years and driven over 100,000 miles. I just did a R&amp;amp;R with new GL-5 as recommended by manufacturer. When I examined the old GL-5 , I found no metal flakes in the old as far as I can tell. I recommend following manufacturer recommnedation. No need to try new stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2626" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T06:30:27.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5046" CreationDate="2013-01-17T06:41:52.970" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Access form 14 months. I am not facing any problem with it. Some vehicles may contain Manufacture defects. So it is better to take to SHOW ROOM not to a UNAUTHORIZED  mechanic    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2627" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T06:41:52.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4306" CreationDate="2013-01-17T07:00:22.837" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricating the motorcycle chains is very helpful when it comes to the maintenance of the chains. With regular lubrication your chain will perform well. Ensure that despite the need for replacements lubrication is a solution as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2628" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T11:27:16.367" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T11:27:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-17T10:31:46.563" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Honda CBF 150cc , the Tachometer shows RPM correctly when i'm at a constant speed. But some times when i slow down and accelerate the RPM Needle moves unexpectedly. (say to 0 even i'm at a reasonable speed and suddenly goes way too high where i'm just starting to accelerate). Any ideas why this is happening ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Update:Its Analogue i think(Traditional one with the Needle and&#xA;  Numbers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This update was proposed by an anonymous user so I am not sure if it was from the OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T16:12:34.217" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T22:49:36.463" Title="Tachometer doesnt show correct RPM sometimes" Tags="|honda|rpm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T01:33:53.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1795" CreationDate="2013-01-17T12:40:12.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as a thought, have you considered replacing the whole suspension arm? You'd have to do the maths yourself, but I recently did a car and it was well worth the time saved in messing around with pressing bushes. Additionally, it means all the bushes are changed and you can guarantee they're pressed and fitted properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you soak the high tensile bolts &lt;code&gt;(#17)&lt;/code&gt; well in penetrating oil before starting. These really aren't easy to cut (I had to use a reciprocating saw last time). Personally, I'd replace them, too. It might also be worth swapping the 3rd bushing &lt;code&gt;(#4 / #19)&lt;/code&gt; while you have everything apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T12:40:12.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5197" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:12:17.773" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought myself a 1993 Ford Mustang (2.3L I4, the 5.0L V8 was sold with it but the car was an I4 from the factory, so it lacks the stronger brakes, suspension, etc. -- The engine would be a drop-in/bolt-up to the current T5, but it would be far from safe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has basically no interior. (The stock top half of the dash is present, where the gauge cluster, light controls, etc. are housed. That's about it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to MacGyver the interior while I work on the mechanical pieces that need attention. My intent was to source and cut-out some carpet, and glue it down with some [weaker] adhesive so it won't be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; permanent when I revisit the interior next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with this plan is: the engine management computer is in the passenger cab, in the very front right corner of the car. (If you were riding in the passenger seat, it is located where your right foot would be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring harness and computer is completely exposed, and the grounding strap &lt;em&gt;doesn't really ground to anything.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I live in Wisconsin, and people tend to have snow and mud on their boots, this is not going to work in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where it was originally mounted, or if there's a missing piece of trim that was meant to cover it, but I need a solution to keep it safe from stray boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone familiar with the '89-93 Mustang that could share some insight?&#xA;The OEM mounting hardware might be non-existent on this car, so creative answers for protecting the ECU would be welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T17:03:39.623" Title="Where should I mount the engine management electronics in a 1993 Ford Mustang?" Tags="|ford|interior|mustang|computer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-17T18:38:28.397" Score="7" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;During these last few weeks, somebody has been stealing gas from my motorcycle.&#xA;It's a Honda Vt 125 Shadow, and since all the wires and hoses are apparent, it's pretty easy to unplug the hose and siphon gas from the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to prevent this ?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2632" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:03:31.667" Title="Solution against motorcycle gasoline theft?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5167" CreationDate="2013-01-17T20:19:17.770" Score="16" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2012 Honda Civic EX, 1.8L with P205/55R16 tires recommended&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three (both front, and left passenger) tires are OEM Continental ContiProContact P205/55R16 89H with about 20,000 mixed highway/city miles, average speeds 20 - 65 MPH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One (right passenger) tire is a brand new Michelin Primacy MXV4 P205/55R16 89H with about 60 miles on it. I had a local tire shop mount and balance it. I had to get a new tire because the OEM right passenger tire had run over a large bolt, which I had professionally plugged and patched, but the tire would leak air and trigger the TPMS about every 6 - 12 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any significant disadvantages to running with tires of different brands, provided that each tire has the exact same dimensions, pressure recommendation, speed rating, etc?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the Primacy tire is definitely higher quality: it has much better ratings for road noise, comfort, and durability. But I am unsure if it is a safety, control, performance, or reliability issue to run with tires from different manufacturers, where one tire is different in its tread patterns than the rest (aside from tread patterns and perceived hardness of the rubber, the Primacy tire is essentially the same as the others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone identifies a real problem with this configuration, I will probably replace my OEM tires with all the same as the Primacy tire &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; my dealership recommends that I replace my OEM tires due to the treads wearing out. But if this is a fundamentally sound configuration, and the only drawback is that my tires will have different wear levels due to the difference in mileage, then I will run with my current configuration and tolerate the inferior road noise of the OEM tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T00:14:38.493" Title="Should I change my tires so they all match?" Tags="|honda|tires|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5166" CreationDate="2013-01-17T20:38:36.607" Score="8" ViewCount="12855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: 2012 Honda Civic EX, 5-speed automatic, with no mods except a non-stock tire (ran over a large bolt). I keep it maintained per the manufacturer's manual and always see the Honda dealership that sold it to me new for maintenance. 20k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I am going down an incline at about 65 mph and I need to brake a moderate amount (decelerating about 3 - 4 mph per second), my engine will rev up significantly. For example, if my cruising RPM at 65 mph is about 2100 RPM, it'll kick up to 2500 - 2800 RPM when braking, and only back down to about 1500 RPM once I either step on the gas again, or reach a very low speed (under 20 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on? Is the car shifting into a very low gear in anticipation of stopping very fast? I usually brake just enough to keep from running into the car ahead of me, and although the brake pedal isn't nearly fully depressed (like I said a &quot;moderate&quot; braking), I rarely have to bring the car to a full stop when I'm in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems fuel-inefficient to run the engine at 2500 - 3000 RPM for a good 15 or 20 seconds when I'm actually asking the car to decelerate. In other automatic cars I've owned (much older; 1997 and 2002), the engine's RPMs just gradually decline the slower you go. Neither my Civic nor my older cars use a continuously variable transmission. I am unaccustomed to this behavior and am looking to see if it is abnormal or something that this car just does because that's the way it's designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civicforums.com/forums/210-engine/350659-2012-honda-civic-ex-engine-braking-econ-button.html&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; some other people appear to be having the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; drive with the &quot;Econ&quot; button &lt;strong&gt;ON&lt;/strong&gt; and am applying steady brake pressure, not &quot;pumping&quot;. It may be &quot;Grade Logic&quot; as one of the posters on that forum put it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="2633" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T21:11:48.070" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T01:48:02.177" Title="Engine revs up when braking" Tags="|honda|civic|braking|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5165" CreationDate="2013-01-17T20:54:28.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although automated manuals are becoming more popular, the 2012 Civic (from my 2 seconds of searching) appears to be a normal automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even still, I'm guessing your vehicle may have the sensors and programming necessary to determine that it's descending an incline and is employing engine braking to help you slow down. What it sounds like it's doing is putting the car in gear to allow the drivetrain and engine to add some drag to the car's momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2012 Focus does this--but it has an automated manual. Which is an awkward term for a manual's clutch and gearshift that is computer controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess a good question would be: Does the car feel like it takes more or less braking when this occurs? If it takes less, the car is helping you slow down. If more, it might be a malfunction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question: If you were to let off the brake when it revs up, do the revs go down again? Try not to fly off cliffs or anything if you try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is braking, this is not going to use any fuel, with exceptions for say, when the car isn't warmed up, and any other rules that it may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T21:11:26.167" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T21:11:26.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2013-01-17T21:09:29.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on who you ask. Any tire shop will say yes, it affects handling and braking. And it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to what degree? Not much. If the tread life of all the tires are similar, the ratings similar, etc. you can reduce this. Still, the different tread patterns will cause different handling. In the rain perhaps one tire will be less effective than the others at clearing out water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Significant? Probably not. I wouldn't worry about it. The different tread pattern would bother me more as a cosmetic defect than any probably undetectable change in handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T21:09:29.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2013-01-18T01:26:35.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this depends on where and how you are driving - for normal street driving I wouldn't be too worried. There'll be a slight grip imbalance at the back which might affect braking slightly (but keep in mind that the front wheels are contributing about 70% to the overall braking effort) and there's going to be a slight difference in grip between either side of the car. To be honest, if you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; notice that during street driving you might want to slow down closer to legal speeds :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you Autocross or track the car, it's an entirely different ballgame. In that case, you will want to replace at least the other rear tire as you depend much more on balanced grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T01:26:35.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5171" CreationDate="2013-01-18T06:08:52.690" Score="1" ViewCount="1510" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gear oil started leaking out of the rear output seal on my '01 Outback started -- onto the exhaust of course, as every fluid in a Subaru seems to do. It's not a lot, but smells terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with replacing the seal, I figured I would polish the slip yoke since it has over 170,000 miles on it now. There aren't any scratches big enough to catch my fingernails on it, but it doesn't look perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned it up with some 0000 steel wool. It doesn't look as shiny as the clean spots did before I started. It has a satin finish now, but feels perfectly smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to polish it to a mirror finish with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, or is 0000 steel wool enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other end of the spectrum, is it possible to polish it &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much? Would a glass-smooth surface cause any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastEditorUserId="304" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T07:28:08.240" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T13:38:05.660" Title="How well should a slip yoke be polished to give a proper seal?" Tags="|transmission|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-18T07:13:51.073" Score="5" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have to buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://standards.sae.org/j1939_201206/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; in order to get all the PIDs and the full instruction set for communicating with the car's obd ii interface via an ELM327? I tried looking for some kind of api for the ELM327 connector, but couldn't find any documentation besides the actual chip's schematics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standards linked above seem to provide the instruction set for all current obd2 protocols, can anyone confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2638" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T10:05:52.643" Title="How to interface with obd ii elm327?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:38:05.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never polished a slip yoke or felt the need to. I would just clean off any heavy dirt and just clean it up a little with the steelwoll as you have already done. Over polishing may reduce the diameter to the point that the seal will leak. Apply a light coating of oil on the yoke prior to reinstalling it. This will lube the seal for the first few turns and prevent possible tearing of the seal during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T13:38:05.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:47:57.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that will expose your tire to harm. The heat will cause your tire to become weak and even if it gets repaired and you are back on track, its lifespan is limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's the right way to do it. The guy just wants to milk money from you. I would advise you too that you buy a new tire or go to your Motorcycle tire seller and ask him for the best mechanics around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T13:32:17.050" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T13:32:17.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-18T16:28:56.430" Score="2" ViewCount="3967" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 months ago I installed a 2 inch suspension lift and replaced upper control arms, tie rods and shocks. The tires were pretty bad and got worse quickly. Vibration and noise started shortly after.Mechanic said it was tires and I replaced them last week. Noise was better at first but already getting worse. any ideas??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T22:13:30.953" Title="08 f150 with vibration in the front driver side tire when turning left only." Tags="|ford|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2013-01-18T19:45:41.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have a front wheel bearing/hub that is bad. With the steering wheel locked, safely raise the front wheel off the ground. Grab the tire and rock it back and forth while holding the tire at the left and right sides. Do it again while holding the tire at the top and bottom. There should be no percevible movement of the tire. Slowly rotate the tire to feel for any grinding or rumble in the bearing. Even if you do not feel anything unusual the bearing may only be vibrating while under load. The left front typically sees more load than the right front in 4x4 mode. Being 6 years old I would guess that the right front is also worn, just not as bad. Since you have a lift kit I assume you also have oversized tires. The extra weight and loads from the tires can cause premature bearing wear. They may not cause a failure they will just wear faster. On another note did you get an alignment after the lift kit was installed? Altering the suspension can change the alignment. You may want to check with an alignment shop that works on lifted trucks. Some times after the lift the vehicle requires alignment settings that are different from the stock setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T22:14:24.500" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T22:14:24.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-18T19:57:32.490" Score="3" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Ford Focus ST170. Some days I go to my car and it starts fine, but some days I put the key in and nothing happens. All the electrics fail like the battery is dead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get out, close the door, put the key in the lock, turn it to lock then reopen it, it starts. I've taken the battery out and put it in another car and it started fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also put the other cars battery in my car and it starts fine. We drove to town in the morning. When we went to drive it 2 hrs later it wouldn't start. Then it was ok for few days then it did it again. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2643" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-19T08:47:09.813" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T09:41:42.807" Title="battery? or something else" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5163" CreationDate="2013-01-18T20:50:29.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do like @Tims' idea of the sticker. You don't have to make it theftproof just more difficult than the bike next to yours. If the fuel line is held on with a spring type hose clamp replace it with a wormdrive clamp. Fill in the screwdriver slot of the clamp with epoxy or something similar. This will mean a socket or nutdriver will be required to remove the clamp, which is something most people don't carry in their pocket. It won't be impossible to remove, but hopefully difficult enough that the thieves choose somewhere easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T20:50:29.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2013-01-19T00:14:38.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what i would recomend, move the Michelin over to the spare tire and put the spare on the vehicle in its place for it is usually the same brand as whats on each corner from the factory&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2644" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T00:14:38.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2013-01-19T00:32:19.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheel Bearing seems logical dependent on Mileage, could also be brake caliper issue. is the truck 2 or 4WD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2644" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T00:32:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-19T09:12:12.403" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove the transmission casing on my belt drive scooter. All of the bolts have tiny 8mm heads, and are very cheap and soft - cheap Chinese manufacture - and one was already slightly rounded, from assembly as a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now sprayed Q10 penetrating oil, and waited a few minutes before tapping lightly with a hammer, on the front and sides of the bolt head. What is really worrying is that when I tap the side of the bolt head, it moves as much as 0.7mm, in any direction. The head is too close to a casing piece to get any good grip with a vice grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do here? There is no room to cut a groove with a hacksaw, but maybe if I get a thin enough grinding disk on an angle grinder I can cut a groove, or maybe grind the head flat enough for a vice grip to hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T20:02:42.653" Title="Rounded bolt head on possibly broken bolt" Tags="|tools|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5190" CreationDate="2013-01-19T13:02:49.807" Score="7" ViewCount="18538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told I need an airgun, but I have no means of getting one. An alternative is a tool that looks like this.  It has a handle of flat steel that splits into a wide U, almost Y shaped but the V part of the Y is a U. At the end of each side of the U is a pin, and a pulley has a hole on either side of it's main nut, so when you put this thing on the pulley, you can hold it to stop it turning while you loosed or tighten the main axle nut of the pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this thing is called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:34:51.663" Title="How do I remove a pulley where I have no way of stopping it turning anti-clockwise, like I'm turning the nut?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5180" CreationDate="2013-01-19T15:55:55.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are a variety of tools like what you describe that come under the heading of an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive%20pulley%20holding%20tool&quot;&gt;automotive pulley holding tool&lt;/a&gt;.  If you look through the result set of that search, you'll see that the Y-shaped wrench style that you describe is only one of the choices.  Another that may apply to your application is almost like an inside-out socket that grips the inner walls of the pulley.  Attach that to a long breaker bar to immobilize the pulley and use your other tools to remove the securing nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you provide more information about your specific application, I could replace the Google link with something more specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T15:55:55.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5265" CreationDate="2013-01-19T19:00:15.687" Score="4" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week my 2002 Ford Escape started idling rough when the temperature was in the 30-40°F (-1°C to 4°C) range. It also seemed to have trouble shifting or something at 40-45 mph. I'd describe it as a stutter/shudder, and I could see the tach jumping up and down while idling in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have time to get to it until today, and it's in the mid-50s (about 10°C) now. There's really no sign of the previous problems. I turned the car on and let it idle, and I think I felt it stutter once, but then no other signs. The check engine light was still on and there were two error codes: P0401 and P0304.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a bit of Googling, I think it may be an EGR problem (P0401) and subsequent misfire (P0304). I've experienced rough idling in tandem with the P0401 code before. I replaced the EGR valve about 6-12 months ago and that seemed to have fixed the problem then. I figure that the misfiring is a combination of EGR problems and the cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else that could be wrong with my car that's causing the EGR valve to go bad? Or did I replace the wrong component in the first place last time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T18:13:06.857" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:44:20.450" Title="Ford Escape 2002 idling rough in cold weather" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|egr|escape|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-19T21:16:24.930" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brought my car 2011 Ford Fusion 4 cyl SEL to the dealer before the 36,000 mile warranty expires because in my opinion the car bounces, it does not absorb the bumps although no problem on the highway. Bought this car used at 28,000 miles from the dealer and filed a complaint one month later about this issue however the service person said there was nothing wrong. Carfax shows this was a rental vehicle prior to my purchase so I am assuming the vehicle must've gone through abuse and that is why I feel the bouncing around at 35,000 miles but the dealer will not agree to replace the struts. I can see he is trying to have me pay for it once it reaches 36,000 miles... I am sure of that. What else can I do to bypass this dealer and get this thing taken care of. I have a case number with Ford and I'm trying to do this in the proper manner. Why should I be driving with an inferior product while still under warranty. Do I have any legal recourse such as &quot;lemon law&quot; or similar? Can anyone suggest how to approach this issue. Thank you for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;George&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2649" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T15:45:56.257" Title="2011 Ford Fusion bounces on bumps..no leak dealer wont replace struts even though still in warranty" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5180" CreationDate="2013-01-20T06:09:40.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rz0H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved the problem using locking pliers on the main plate of the variator pulley, so that they locked under the kick start axle to the rigth. I then used a short length of pipe on the wrench and several sharp upward jerks. The bike only fell over once before I 'cracked' the nut and could loosen it without the extra leverage of the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="2646" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T14:34:51.663" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:34:51.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T08:21:33.360" Score="3" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one worry after yesterday's fairly difficult but successful drive belt change on my Big Boy scooter. The main nut on the fron pulley now goes on much less further than before it came off. I read about a trick using a one inch paper card before putting the variator pulley front plate on, and skipped that. I wonder if that could be the cause? I just put the belt on the main axle and then put the front cover one. Here is what the difference looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cz81e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulley with nut tightened quite far on before removal and replacement.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wgmR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulley with nut tightened not very far at all after replacement.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T01:36:43.723" Title="Pulley Difference After Drive Belt Change" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5003" CreationDate="2013-01-20T15:40:46.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem solved! The key was to finally locate the source of OBDII code PO 0171, left bank lean, which I realize was not part of my original question. Anyways, I found a leaky air hose connection between the manifold and the MAF, once I corrected it, the engine idle smoothed out and now we have heat as designed at idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2536" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T15:40:46.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5180" CreationDate="2013-01-20T23:51:56.720" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;air gun&quot;, or &quot;impact wrench&quot;, is the powered version of an astonishingly cheap and effective hand tool called an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;impact driver&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, which translates the force of a hammer blow to the butt end of the tool into rotational force at the bit. One of these babies is capable of applying a very large torque to a nut -- mine claims 200 ft-lbs. per whack. The most common application is freeing frozen fasteners, and it might do the trick here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, which I've used when changing my timing belt, is to use the belt as a &quot;wrench&quot; for the pulley. In order to get at my oil seals, I wrapped a section of the old timing belt around the pulleys. With the belt cinched tight in a pair of locking pliers, I was able to stop them from moving just long enough to crack the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T22:02:18.593" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T22:02:18.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5199" CreationDate="2013-01-21T04:35:59.840" Score="5" ViewCount="6289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's a good crash course website or book for auto repair for beginner who's just getting into auto repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T17:17:35.320" Title="Is there a good crash course website or book for auto repair for beginner who's just getting into auto repair?" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-21T07:10:38.227" Score="2" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth that had not been driven for the past 4 years.  Recently I have the need for the car and was trying to get it running.  I was able to start the engine (got a new battery) but discover the clutch pedal once stepped down, would just stay flat on the floor and not come back up.  I can pull it all the way up by hand and it'll stay up but if I step it down, it'll sink down and stay on the floor again.  Where should I start?  Checking the clutch reservoir and fill if it's low or empty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2654" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T15:29:04.680" Title="1993 Dodge Stealth Clutch Pedal Flat On The Floor" Tags="|clutch|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-21T13:32:43.317" Score="2" ViewCount="2150" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title basically says it all, but I am the most interested in what the rollers actually do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T13:47:58.287" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T13:19:49.287" Title="How does a belt drive CVT variator work?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5192" CreationDate="2013-01-21T13:44:59.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Stealth uses an hydraulic slave cylinder to control the clutch. If you look on the firewall of the engine compartment you should see a resevoir similar to the brake mastercylinder. The system has two main componenets the resevoir and the slave cylinder. A leaking slave cylinder is the more common failure item. You can try refilling the resevoir and bleeding it. The bleeding technique is similar to bleeding brakes. This will only be a temporary fix as the leak is still present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T15:29:04.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T15:29:04.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5161" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:34:33.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the car, but could you not create a temporary cover/box out of some light plastic or aluminium sheet? Either stuck down in the same way as the carpet (although I personally wouldn't bother with carpet at this stage, get the important bits done first and worry about that later...), or screwed to the bulkhead either side of the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that originally it would have been enclosed within the lower part of the dashboard, probably with a clip-in removable cover for access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T14:34:33.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4582" CreationDate="2013-01-21T15:31:36.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires are going to be the biggest change you can implement. The widest, stickiest tires you can get for your conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, any car can lock its tires up under normal conditions (average load, speeds). If it can do this, the braking system is more than adequate, and the tires are the first thing you should change. Now, when you start upgrading tires, the braking system typically starts to fall behind. Then you can worry about upgrading other braking components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a heavy load, I'm betting your getting pretty good grip out of your tires, so getting better discs, calipers, etc. would be the next step. Unfortunately, this is an upgrade  that's more aimed at racing enthusiasts, so finding parts suitable for street use might be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T15:31:36.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2013-01-21T15:47:26.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best resource I've found, for someone mechanically inclined, is the specific Factory Service Manual for whatever car you are working on. They typically describe how to disassemble the entire car, step by step, with pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're into a more basic &quot;Why are cars designed this way?&quot; type of discussion. Google, or the site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howstuffworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;howstuffworks.com&lt;/a&gt; is also decent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T20:33:03.147" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T20:33:03.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2013-01-21T19:02:19.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nick said, if you can get the Factory Service Manual for your vehicle, that's probably the best. It can be expensive (like $200+) though unless you can find PDFs online. A much less complete, but still very helpful, book to get is the Haynes manual for your vehicle; you can pick it up at any decent auto parts store for something like $15-20. Also, YouTube is a great resource. If your vehicle is pretty common, search for the procedure you want to do and you may find a video of somebody doing it and explaining how. For less common vehicles, you still might be able to get some good ideas watching similar videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T19:02:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5582" CreationDate="2013-01-21T20:12:41.627" Score="7" ViewCount="22579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1997 Chevrolet Lumina sedan. I’m trying to diagnose a sound coming from my engine.  It is a “whirring” noise that varies with the engine speed (e.g., if I accelerate, the sound becomes louder and the pitch increases a bit). The sound occurs constantly, but is best noticed during acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 8 months ago, I heard similar noises and it turned out to be the alternator since the battery was draining and the voltage was below acceptable levels. Had that replaced and the sound went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve opened the hood while the car is running, and the sound is definitely in the region of the alternator. However, I also know that an idler pulley with bad bearings can make a similar noise and so too can the power steering system. The power steering fluid is fine; I triple-checked that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven’t noticed any faltering in the electrical system. The interior light doesn’t flicker or vary in brightness with acceleration, the air fan speed doesn’t vary in and out of acceleration, the console lights are fine, and there’s no battery or “Volts” indicator on the console.  I’ve tried turning on all the accessories of the car — headlights with brights on, radio, holding the brakes, interior lights on — to see if an indicator would come on, and nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise has only been around for a few hours and it’s only been day time so I haven’t been able to try the headlight trick effectively. Also, it is extremely cold: only about 5 degrees Fahrenheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2658" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T01:29:45.940" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T20:14:49.867" Title="Failing alternator, idler pulley, or something else?" Tags="|chevrolet|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5203" CreationDate="2013-01-21T21:20:52.020" Score="0" ViewCount="1441" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: As mentioned in the comments&lt;/em&gt;: Duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people, it seems, use the motor brake to slow down the car, often when they want to bring it to a complete standstill, e. g. in front of a red light. Depress clutch, shift to a lower gear, engage clutches slowly while letting the engine run at idle speed. Others - including me - let go the accelerator, use the (little) breaking effect excerted by the engine, and eventually just depress the clutch and use the brakes to bring the car to a standstill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm not talking about downshifting at the beginning of a long descent, where continuous braking will let the brakes run hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason given for the clutch maneuver is that this saves the brakes from wear. But it also puts more wear on the clutch, and possibly on the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the price of a new clutch and that of a new set of brake pads, I'd rather have the latter replaced. And compared to how often I have to use the brakes anyway, it can't be all too much that I save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any firm advice on this question? Assuming a reasonably recent car, of course - maybe this used to be an issue some decades ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2659" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T18:49:07.297" Title="Using clutch and motor brake - good or bad?" Tags="|brakes|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-01-22T20:08:20.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5202" CreationDate="2013-01-21T23:33:55.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that what you are talking about is not engine braking as such, but clutch braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To engine brake without putting undue wear on the clutch, you do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depress the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change to neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press the accelerator so the &lt;strong&gt;revs will match the gear&lt;/strong&gt; you are intending to move to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change into the next lower gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;release the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no slipping of the clutch, and the syncromesh should also not need to run, as you should have matched revs appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits include less likelihood of locking up, consistent braking, longer brake pad life, and because you are in a lower gear, the braking force is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T23:33:55.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2013-01-22T08:06:06.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rollers allow you to continuously vary the diameter of the driving pulley. As the speed of the driven wheel depends on the ratio of the driving and driven wheel diameters, you can see that the rollers can provide try with a continually varying ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty certain we have a few questions on this topic here. Have a search around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T08:06:06.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2013-01-22T13:19:49.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summarizing my own answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4340/57&quot;&gt;Engine braking with an automatic transmission&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the pictures from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNOLOGY/OVERVIEW/cvt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissan CVT overview site&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQMMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nissan&amp;#39;s summary picture is quite good.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that there are two variable diameter pulleys connected by a very robust belt. This theoretically allows for an infinite number of gear ratios. Practically, there are plenty of engineering and human interface limitations that reduce infinity to a more manageable set of presets. There is a finite resolution of the pulley adjustment mechanism that allows the engine computer to direct the transmission. This means that, while not quite infinite, you probably have many many more effective gears settings than the five choices I have in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T13:19:49.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-22T17:58:01.690" Score="5" ViewCount="9286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Falcon that's been sitting for six months and won't start.  The battery is fine -- I'm pretty sure the issue is that the gas in the carb has evaporated.  As I understand it, the solution is putting a few drops of gas down the carburetor vent.  I'm a little nervous about the possibility of fire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make this operation safer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2389" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T02:05:42.623" Title="How do I prime a carburetor safely?" Tags="|carburetor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5207" CreationDate="2013-01-23T02:03:10.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply cranking the car for 10 - 15 seconds should prime the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank the car for about 15 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop for about 15 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump the accelerator petal twice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank the car again, if it doesn't start immediately keep cranking&#xA;the car for a maximum of 15 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop &lt;strong&gt;Wait at least 2 minutes&lt;/strong&gt;, this is to prevent damage to the&#xA;starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then go back to step 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T02:03:10.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2013-01-23T04:53:59.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use the manufacturers reccomended oil, oil additives for the most part are gimmicks.  If you really want to protect your engine use a quality synthetic like Mobil 1 or the like.  Modern engines have more consistent tolerances and can even run oil for longer periods of time.  Stick to manufacturer recommendations, whats in your manual.  No amount of additive is going to improve how your engine runs, unless its hiding a larger underlying problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T04:53:59.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="997" CreationDate="2013-01-23T05:06:24.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;4-cylinder, cycles are more balanced, and load is distributed across 4 instead of 3 cylinders, all other things being the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T05:06:24.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T08:19:45.150" Score="13" ViewCount="6380" Body="&lt;p&gt;A piece of advice that seems to be widely accepted is that after a long high-speed run, when the turbocharger is thoroughly hot, you should let the engine idle for a while before stopping it.  The reason given is that this allows the extremely hot turbo bearings to cool down a bit while the lubricating oil is still flowing, so that the bearings don't get contaminated by burned-on deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand this, and I can also understand the advice that often comes with it, namely that normally it isn't very important because at the end of a typical journey there will be quite a few miles of relatively slow driving between leaving the motorway and arriving home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my question.  If it's all true, why are we not told to let the engine idle for a while before filling up at a motorway service station?  I've never known any expert to give this advice; equally, I've never seen cars waiting before the pumps in a service station with their engines running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2541" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T18:54:40.863" Title="How to deal with a hot turbocharger" Tags="|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2013-01-23T09:16:14.427" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a highly tuned performance car you &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; told, by the manufacturer, to idle for a few minutes before you roll up to the pump, otherwise you can destroy your turbo. Turbos get very hot - stopping them while hot means you don't have any way to transfer heat away from them - and so bearings die and cast components occasionally crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly see other tuned Japanese cars idling while i do this. It's also a good opportunity to talk cars with other petrolheads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:15:09.770" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:15:09.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2013-01-23T15:01:50.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're also not told about not riding on the clutch, keeping below 3000 RPM when the engine is still new (less than about 5000 miles on the odometer), and a few other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you live in a suburb, or anywhere that has a speed limit of 30mph/50km/h for that matter, chances are that by the time you get home and into your garage/parking bay your turbo would have cooled down enough for you to safely switch your car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This topic is also why it is a good idea to have a bigger intercooler and possibly a water/meth injection kit fitted to your car if you can afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T14:50:31.900" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:50:31.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4452" CreationDate="2013-01-23T15:06:13.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &quot;add&quot; a few bucks to the price and buy a fully synthetic oil. That's the only &quot;additive&quot; I bring anywhere near my car. The same goes for &quot;octane boosters&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T15:06:13.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2013-01-23T15:34:32.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual for my turbo Eclipse specifically mentions cool-down time periods, with the times listed based on the type of driving that was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T15:34:32.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2013-01-23T15:43:42.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this question has been answered already, but keep this in mind for situations like this: Get your hands on two trolley jacks, jack the driving wheels off the ground, release the parking brake(handbrake) and roll that baby out of there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T15:43:42.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T18:49:34.577" Score="-1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Bravada with about 160,000 miles. At first I could hear a faint gurgling sound from the right front side under the hood when I’d stop and go. Then about a month later my truck started running hot (at 230°F or so), so I checked the coolant even though I had just put some in two weeks prior, and there was hardly any. I refilled and it was going like crazy. And on top of that, the heater in my truck goes cold when the gauge starts to go over 200°. When it starts to get close to the red, the heat suddenly goes hot and my gauge goes back down to around 150°. Also, when I’m on the highway it switches from hot to cold a lot less than in town, or does it slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a leak: it kind of looked like oil, but I use Dex-Cool antifreeze, so it’s red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2664" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T17:01:57.080" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T05:30:58.120" Title="Truck overheating and affecting the heater blowing could air occasionally" Tags="|maintenance|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T20:02:33.003" Score="3" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Chevy Express 1500 Cargo without cruise control.  Is it possible to add this, and how would I go about doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T15:43:36.657" Title="How can I add cruise control to a 2003 Chevy Express Van?" Tags="|chevrolet|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T20:57:00.070" Score="0" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flashing “winter driving” arrow on the dashboard according to the maintenance manual calls to take it to a Volvo dealer due to a transmission failure. Could this be due to cold weather, and what could I possibly do to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2665" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T17:01:47.690" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:32:36.573" Title="Volvo 940 Dashboard Flashing winter Driving arrow" Tags="|transmission|volvo|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2013-01-24T03:59:04.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should whenever possible let the engine idle for a short period of time to allow the turbo to cool in big trucks and cars alike. It will definitely add life to your turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are keeping relatively low speeds and minimal  boost in the last few minutes of your drive such as in your neighborhood or long driveway then the time needed to allow the turbo to cool will be reduced or eliminated. Coming off the freeway and shutting off the engine immediately would almost certainly reduce the life of the turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make a device to help with this called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer&quot;&gt;Turbo Timer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T03:59:04.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T07:51:40.013" Score="1" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the block heater to plugin in the hood. My car is a Ford Taurus 1999.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Does it even have one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2666" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T02:32:06.933" Title="Where is the block heater on 99 Ford Taurus?" Tags="|ford|heater|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5219" CreationDate="2013-01-24T10:45:57.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any car with an electronic throttle can have cruise-control fitted. I would suggest having an auto-electrician do it. It's not just about fitting hardware, you're also going to have to do fancy things to the Control Unit software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T10:45:57.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5232" CreationDate="2013-01-24T12:33:40.623" Score="1" ViewCount="3803" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car needs a new clutch/flywheel. I found a kit on eBay described as : LUK clutch/dual mass flywheel kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now having the clutch fitted elsewhere, but the mechanic says that this car does not have a dual mass flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't know if it should, or shouldn't have a dual mass flywheel, and I'm hoping that someone may be able to give me a definitive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car spec is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vauxhall Astra Mk5 (2004 =&gt;) 5 door, 1.8l Petrol, SRi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T20:49:39.753" Title="Vauxhall Astra clutch/flywheel" Tags="|clutch|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5467" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:40:33.453" Score="1" ViewCount="4388" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Jeep Grand Cherokee 1998 had a broken headlight. I replaced the bulb, and noticed that the glass had shattered. The new bulb broke soon, also shattered. Any idea what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T14:20:32.637" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T02:53:12.507" Title="Headlight bulb continually breaking" Tags="|jeep|headlight|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5219" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:43:36.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two options: aftermarket cruise, factory cruise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aftermarket:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most car alarm/stereo installation shops will be able to get and install aftermarket cruise control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can order them &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/ez-catalog/X380183/0002/exsav0306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online such as here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Factory:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General Motors Usually only has one wiring harness for the vehicle, meaning the vehicle with all the options has the same wiring harness as a vehicle with none of the options. Now there may be a sub harness (short leg that plugs into the main harness) that's not there but the base wiring is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your local dealer, you should only have to by the switch, control box, and throttle bracket (may be there already). Plug it in, add the fuse and you have factory cruise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to the dealer is to get the missing components from a vehicle equipped with cruise at a salvage yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T15:43:36.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T20:37:21.497" Score="1" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1992 Corolla is leaking oil when driving then pools while parked. Already checked the oil pan and no leak. Where else could it be coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2670" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T21:31:08.680" Title="'92 Toyota Corolla with a oil leak" Tags="|toyota|oil|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5234" CreationDate="2013-01-24T21:57:49.680" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is a useful enough question, so I'm posing it. Some kid rear ended me, and it's going to cost more to repair the bumper and two package than my WJ is worth. Can I expect his insurance company to just cut me a check, or do I have to buy my own car back from them? It's perfectly drivable, should I have to go through all of this trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:47:20.970" Title="2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Value" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5225" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:02:50.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;New bulbs sometimes don't last long if they have any oil or dirt on them to begin with before you install them. Sometimes you can't even see the dirt or the oil but it's enough to cause the glass to overheat once your headlights warm up. Also, it should go without saying ( and surely you already know this? ) that you can't touch the new bulb with installing it or the oil from your fingers will overheat it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have moisture or dirt in your headlight assembly that's causing this. Make sure everything is good and clean in there and that your headlight assembly is seated securely and isn't moving around while you drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T22:02:50.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:12:28.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem like you actually asked a question. Are you asking what you should do about your coolant leak? If you put coolant in your truck, and the coolant disappears, you have a coolant leak. You need to fix the coolant leak or have a shop find and fix the coolant leak,  or your truck is going to overheat and stop working permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T22:12:28.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5224" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:38:02.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely the dual mass flywheel you found was for the diesel Astra. Some petrol engined cars do use them, but the Astra isn't one of them. Even if it was, failure of a petrol flywheel is very rare anyway - are you positive you need a new flywheel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, you should trust your mechanic or not use them at all. This sounds like a straightforward clutch change to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Checked parts suppliers and there is no DMF listed for your car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastEditorUserId="1486" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T22:48:02.777" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T22:48:02.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:46:40.923" Score="5" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed an annoying issue on my '94 (4th gen) Honda prelude. The digital petrol and temperature gauges appear very faint when starting the car. After about 5 mins they brighten again, only to fade once more a few moments later. This repeats throughout driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the instrument light dimming switch, and its fine (on full).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've had a bit of rain here lately, could that be affecting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:08:52.847" Title="Honda Prelude: digital fuel and temp gauges dimming and brightening repeatedly" Tags="|electrical|honda|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5229" CreationDate="2013-01-25T01:02:37.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the insurance company and where you live. I have had it go both ways. In one case they offered a check, but wanted the vehicle. In another case they paid me and were happy I didn't make them tow it away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that laws vary from state to state and it may be a hassle to reregister the vehicle as it will have a salvage title. This may require reinspection by a DMV officer. It may not pass without the repairs. You may get them to issue you a check without totaling the Jeep by making the payment a little less than the value. That way you have a clean title.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T00:47:20.970" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:47:20.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2013-01-25T02:13:11.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was true a few years back but they charged a fee and then when it was returned, they credit it.  That's a hassle in itself.  This tool could work for future cars/truck as well.&#xA;As long as you get one you can update.  You might want to consider one with a erase code feature.  So the codes don't remain in the obd scanner.  Or pay someone to get it out of there once you fix the problem.  My husband didn't trust the scanner code and end up paying more money to have it diagnose.  Once you figure out the code, that should be it unless your vehicle has more problems.  I think it can be a good tool to have, and the expense of getting the dealer to charge you to diagnose it came to 100.00 per check and is going up which they use about the same thing.  They charged 100.00, fix the problem and then charge again another 100.00 to make sure that was it.  That's a rip off.  3x we paid for that diagnose check when the obd2 told us what was wrong.  But keep in mind, some problems might be more than 1 and you have to rescan every time a problem is fix and code remove to make sure the light turns green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2671" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T02:13:11.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5240" CreationDate="2013-01-25T06:54:43.640" Score="6" ViewCount="48041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I went to a chain tire shop/garage. My left rear tire had a bulge just above the hub cap. I looked online and it appears that this could be really bad if I didn't fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the serviceman told me that I should replace the rear two tires so that the wear is even going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also checked my spare tire. He said that because my car is a 2003, the spare should be replaced. So he took my good right rear tire and put that in the spare tire compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spare was never used...why did I need to replace it? When do I need to replace my spare?&#xA;If I didn't go to the my tires services, I would have never thought to replace the spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T18:12:54.050" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T01:50:42.643" Title="When do I need to replace my spare tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5238" CreationDate="2013-01-25T07:30:08.350" Score="4" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently needed to get my left rear tire replaced because of a bulge in the sidewall. Upon the recommendation of the serviceman at the chain tire store I replace both rear tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He showed me a range of tires rated 2, 3 and 4 stars.&#xA;A 4 star Michelin tires were $114, a 3 star Kuhmo tire was $99, and I didn't even consider a 2 star tire which was probably in the $60-70 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically went with the Kuhmo tire...I figured that it probably doesn't have the bells and whistles of the Michelin, but probably is better than the 2 star tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do I know what I need? If I went with the 2 star tire would I have regretted it later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What differentiates the different tiers of tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are more expensive tires safer in general? Do they last longer? Do they handle better? Safety and handling are my major concerns because carrying precious cargo (my family). :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T10:18:17.430" Title="How do I know what quality tires to choose? What criteria sets them apart?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5237" CreationDate="2013-01-25T08:18:03.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you are correct, in that the really cheap tires will not be as good quality, so will probably wear out faster and have poorer grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However cost is not linked completely to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a range of tires I buy from £150 to £350 and the core differences in them are about trade-offs in water clearance, grip, wear, break away when losing grip, performance in low temperature conditions etc. (so for example Pirelli P-Zero Rosso has a longer life in my car, but I prefer the Bridgestone RE050's for their more predictable break away, despite them not lasting as long)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look at the manufacturer specs and comparison websites but to reassure you, Kumho had a good reputation. (For my car I'd prefer them to Michelin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example comparison site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/tire-test-the-quick-and-the-tread-comparison-tests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caranddriver.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T10:18:17.430" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T10:18:17.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5245" CreationDate="2013-01-25T08:28:36.510" Score="3" ViewCount="7060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping on Sony's site for all the parts I need for a car audio system, and they have me confused on their power statistics. I understand what peak power is, and I know that I don't want my amp putting out anywhere near that much. But some items also have listed rated power, and RMS (CEA 2013) power listed. For example, one subwoofer has 1300w peak (380w rated), and 500 watts CEA 2031 RMS power. I researched RMS, and everything is telling me that is the rating I should be using for my amp output, but I don't want to be wrong and buy an amp that is going to eventually burn up my speakers. Thanks very much for any assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2673" LastActivityDate="2020-01-01T05:38:53.123" Title="Car audio wattage quesions, rated vs. peak, vs. RMS" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2013-01-25T09:11:14.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber degrades over time, it looses flexibility, micro-cracks appear. When put under load the tire could fail catastrophically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually said that normal lifespan for a tire is ~6 years, after that it should be replaced (regardless of wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The structural integrity of a tire can degrade over an extended period of time. When that occurs, tires are more prone to catastrophic failure, which could, at best, cause an inconvenience, or, at worst, lead to a crash. The degradation of a tire occurs over time, mostly the result of a chemical reaction within the rubber components. That aging process can be accelerated by heat and sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoted from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shoppers/Tires/Tires+Rating/Tire+Aging#faq1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safercar.gov&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T10:44:13.527" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T10:44:13.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5242" CreationDate="2013-01-25T09:12:17.823" Score="4" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 Ford Mondeo Clipper has a very nice &quot;Max Heating&quot; setting, where it both defrosts front and back windows, and sets the airco to max temperature, max fan speed. When I find my car windows frozen, I always first put the car in neutral, start it, rev up the engine to 2000 rpm a couple of times, and enable this &quot;Max Heating&quot; function. The car heats up, defrosts front and back windows while I scratch the side windows. I scratch back and front windows last, and it goes much easier this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine told me I should &lt;strong&gt;turn off my headlights&lt;/strong&gt; while letting the car defrost like this, to save the battery so it can heat faster/better. Does this really help? I thought heating was done using gasoline? (I see my fuel usage increase from 0,6 to 1,1 liters/100km running stationary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2674" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T15:40:44.453" Title="Should I turn off my headlights while having the car run to &quot;defrost&quot; while I scratch ice off the windows?" Tags="|battery|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2013-01-25T09:19:12.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turning off your headlights won't make any difference to your battery, but at idle, you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; find your &quot;Max Heating&quot; setting works better without them on. The reason for this is that your alternator can only put out so much current at any given RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, using completely made up numbers, let's say your Alternator can push out 20 Amps of current at 800 Revs Per Minute (~Idle speed). If your &quot;Max Heating&quot; setting uses all 20Amps to run your fans, aircon and heated windscreens that's fine. But, if you turn on your lights and they use 5 Amps then now your &quot;Max Heating&quot; setting is only using 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my 2003 Mondeo, the fans run noticeably slower at idle than they do when I begin to rev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to clarify, if the setting is doing what you need already, there is no harm in having your lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T09:19:12.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2013-01-25T09:25:56.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Window heater wires are electrical (rear window and front wipers area if present). Warm air from the heater is from engine coolant fluid, however there's electrical fan that blows the air through heater core. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually cars have several idling speeds: high RPM (1500-2000) till the engine heats up to working temperature and low RPM (700-900) after heating. When you start a car it works on high RPMs and there's plenty of current to charge the battery and power the heaters and lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest to check on Dans answer and test if there's a difference in fans speed (noise) with and without headlights on. If the difference is audibly noticeable then it means the car doesnt have enough current to run everything at once. If you turn on lights that means heater wires and fans will be getting less power and would not work on their full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. In my area I turn headlights &quot;On&quot; to heat them while I clean the rest of the car, so that I can scrap the ice from them with ease :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T09:25:56.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2013-01-25T10:10:29.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car doesn't have this &quot;Max Heating&quot; setting, so my experience may not help you, but I have two reasons why I &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; turn the lights on while defrosting the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the extra load on the engine actually provides more heat so the interior heats up faster, because the engine revs harder to keep the battery output voltage at the same level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lights being on helps to melt the ice on the headlights, as I don't want to have to scrape ice off a plastic surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T10:10:29.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5239" CreationDate="2013-01-25T10:27:00.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because waveforms are only at the peak for a very short period of time, the most useful figure for amplifiers is RMS - which actually gives a realistic number for the power requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you want a speaker to cope with peaks, as these are what will kill it. Generally subwoofers do give both figures, as they are fed the greatest power in your audio system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your amp gives 350W RMS output on the sub channel, for example, then you will be safe with a 500W RMS sub with 1300w peak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple view:&lt;/strong&gt; Just make sure your speaker numbers are higher than your amp numbers :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car, I have a 650W amp - although some of my speakers are only rated to 500W - but I feel safe, as my volume controls on the amp are only at around 2 (out of 10) because any louder means I can't have a conversation with anyone in the car even if I shout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T10:27:00.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-25T13:12:17.557" Score="7" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car runs great when first started, great pickup, etc. However, if I stop and shut off the engine, it will not start back up. At times I can pump the accelerator 5 or 6 times and then it will start if I keep my foot off the pedal, but not always. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glow plugs are good, I've recently adjusted the valves, filters all replaced, linkages replaced, turbo working properly. The first symptom was the car having no power or losing power on hills, but that is no longer the problem with the mentioned fixes. Just over 200K on the odometer. Another recent change is that I'm not driving the vehicle as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2675" LastEditorUserId="9207" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T18:56:06.387" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T06:19:42.873" Title="'83 Mercedes 300D will not start when warm" Tags="|starting|diesel|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5241" CreationDate="2013-01-25T15:40:44.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the car is idling waiting to defrost, I tend to start some electric consumers in order to increase the load on the engine, so it warms faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on cars with automatic idle control, there is no need to rev it up at startup. The engine ECU regulates the engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2678" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T15:40:44.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5250" CreationDate="2013-01-25T21:12:54.987" Score="3" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Range Rover classic 1993 which is heating very fast even if I just drive for 10 min, the heat is not rising too much but I used to drive this Range Rover before and especially in winter season and never seen the heat meter rising unless I drive for a long period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This heating came at the same time with water leaking that I noticed on a pipe (not too much to be noticed), so my question is does this water leaking have anything to do with the heating ? or is it something else ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastEditorUserId="2679" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T07:48:55.757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T09:53:29.213" Title="Does a water leaking make the engine heat faster?" Tags="|engine|radiator|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5249" CreationDate="2013-01-26T09:53:29.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the water leaking from? If it is from any part of the cooling system then yes, your engine's cooling system will not work as efficiently so it will heat up faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that clearing out the rust also exposed a leak somewhere in the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T09:53:29.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-26T12:27:14.917" Score="1" ViewCount="8331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2003 Ford Fiesta. My clutch master cylinder push rod came off of the pedal today. I put a cable tie on, it should hold it for a bit. But I also noticed a &lt;strong&gt;sensor for the clutch pedal&lt;/strong&gt; that has fallen off (I think it was hit off by the clutch pedal when it flew up, following losing contact with the master cylinder). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I can not fix properly or replace it today, &lt;strong&gt;I am wondering what state to put the sensor in so that the engine manager will work in a sane way.&lt;/strong&gt; Do I disconnect the electrics, let it think I am pressing the clutch (by leaving it alone), depress it with a cable tie, so it thinks the clutch is up, or do I need it working properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T17:46:44.897" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:55:27.900" Title="Temporary repair for broken clutch pedal sensor" Tags="|ford|clutch|fiesta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2013-01-26T13:40:16.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there's some kind of new clutch pedal sensor I'm not aware of, I'm pretty sure they exist only to keep you from starting the engine with the clutch engaged. I always jumper the cable on them so I &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; start the engine with the clutch engaged, which is great in an emergency if the engine won't ignite (it allows you to move the car around a parking lot, off the street, etc. using the starter motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T13:40:16.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5255" CreationDate="2013-01-26T23:12:42.960" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this black exhaust type thing coming off the side of this land cruiser? &#xA;What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mg2HA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2687" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T08:44:17.723" Title="What is this exhaust type thing?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5254" CreationDate="2013-01-27T00:14:15.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a fresh air snorkel. The purpose is to raise the air intake so water won't be sucked into the engine while crossing streams or deep puddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a real off roader, the exhaust will also be vented high so there is no water ingress into the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T01:58:08.743" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T01:58:08.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-01-27T14:24:43.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used non acetone nail polish remover for this type of thing with good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T18:46:56.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T18:46:56.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-27T23:23:18.457" Score="2" ViewCount="4756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my muffler, and attached it to the existing pipe using clamps around a short coupler pipe (sorry, I don't know the right name for these things) that fits around the outside the the pipe attached to the muffler and the existing pipe under the vehicle. I wasn't able to get a straight (same diameter all the way) coupler around the existing pipe, so I chose one that was slightly larger at the end that goes around the exhaust pipe, and rather than fitting perfectly snug, the coupler buckled and exposed a gap (and exhaust leak) when I tightened the clamp down on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure to fix it properly I'm going to have to rip the coupler pipe back off (probably with my Dremel) and replace it with something different, but I'm not sure how to determine the right parts I should be using? Do I just need to sand down the (moderately rusted on the outside, but still intact) exhaust pipe under the car and try to get the smaller coupler pipe around it? Any good resource for beginners doing exhaust repair work like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can take some pics or pipe measurements if it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T16:42:00.837" Title="Attaching poorly-fitting exhaust components without welding?" Tags="|exhaust|muffler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2013-01-28T00:51:57.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the vehicle won't start the switch needs to be in the opposite state of it's current position. I would either jump the contacts of the connector or wire tie/tape the switch in the closed position. However this must be used only long enough to properly fix the switch. This is a condition that could result in some serious damage or injury. Since you have experienced clutch issues already another pedal linkage failure could let the car lurch forward or reverse while starting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T00:51:57.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2013-01-28T08:06:34.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires have expiry dates.And when the expiry date comes, it does not necessarily mean that the tire will not perform but the quality lowers. This means that even if the tire is used on the car or the bike, its performance will be low and it will eventually wear out quicker than supposed. This type of tire can even put you at risk of accidents. This is the reason why you were advised to get a new spare tire. You should use your spare tire before it expires and always check the expiry date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T13:31:48.000" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T13:31:48.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-01-28T12:12:41.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brasso and a fine cloth does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:12:41.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2013-01-28T12:55:27.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know how Ford does it, but on my Mitsubishi Eclipse, the clutch position switch is normally closed.  It goes open when the clutch is disengaged.  Simply unplugging the wiring from the switch will perform the bypass on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:55:27.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2013-01-28T13:40:31.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used all three types of spark plugs in my cars (all Suzukis) and found quite a difference between the Iridium/Platinum and the Copper ones which are much cheaper. The reason being that the iridium and platinum tips are more resistant to erosion due to the sparking. So overall they provide better performance over their lifetime, and don't degrade in performance that rapidly, than copper ones. Invariably, the platinum ones worked best in terms of price and fuel efficiency did improve marginally. The iridium ones were no better than the platinum ones in terms of performance but provided better durability (about 15% more life), but not that much so I can't really justify the price difference. Do try the platinum ones once, I think you'd be happy with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2690" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T13:40:31.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2013-01-28T15:33:58.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the DPFE sensor and have driven approximately 50 miles since without any indication of a problem. I'm theorizing that the DPFE sensor was the original cause of the problem, and previously replacing the old dirty EGR valve with a new one temporarily alleviated the symptoms caused by the bad DPFE sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:33:58.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T15:55:22.250" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2012 Equinox that I want to attach an inviscord to the Onstar wires, but I am not sure how to access the wires.  There is a wide black plastic cover where the rear view mirror attaches to the vehicle.  I believe this cover is holding the wiring along with the sensors for forward collision detection and lane departure detection.  As I don't want to break anything I was hoping to get some instruction to take this apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T14:18:18.767" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:18:18.767" Title="Access OnStar Wires on 2012 Equinox" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|equinox|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:16:40.100" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't decide myself to buy an on board camera ... There are many models, some of them, very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Amazon.com, there are many models, most of which have received no rating. Thus, choosing a camera which is actually durable, usage, has a multi-hour battery life is like trying to catch a butterfly with eyes closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my wishes :&#xA;- can record about 2 to 4 hours non-stop&#xA;- has a shifting feature (keeps in memory only the last 4 hours, like surveillance camera systems)&#xA;- provides with a really decent image (1280x768 is a minimum!) at a real 30im/s frame rate, no flicker due to weak CPU etc...&#xA;- is small enough not to draw attention (Go Pro would be ok, but it is big and expensive and would probably not handle 2 to 4 hours recording. Correct me if I'm wrong)&#xA;- can easily be mounted in at the front AND the back of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you have any recommendations ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Thank you for the comments encouraging me to extend the question, to salvage it from the appetite of hungry moderators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2:&lt;/strong&gt; I want evidence in case of an accident and at the same time, I'd like the camera to be as stealthy as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="1963" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T11:02:54.863" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T11:11:22.800" Title="What would be a very efficient on-board camera?" Tags="|camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:23:03.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A combination of Auto Repair for Dummies, and the Haynes guide to my vehicle taught me a lot. The For Dummies book is written for complete beginners, but suffers from being very generic. The Haynes guide can fill in the void with information specific to your vehicle, without being overly complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T18:23:03.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2013-01-28T20:51:04.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for the similar thing and stumbled on a page which describes the protocol for the 650gs. I haven't managed to try it out yet but it seems promising. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/Diagnostics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/Diagnostics.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topic is discussed here as well: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php?25550-Diagnostic-plug-pinout-does-anyone-have-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php?25550-Diagnostic-plug-pinout-does-anyone-have-it&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plese let my know how are you doing with your project. I have a similar arduino-gs-related thing in mind :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2694" LastEditorUserId="2694" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T20:58:45.267" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T20:58:45.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5258" CreationDate="2013-01-29T00:15:54.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The auto parts store can probably rent you a pipe expander. Once you get the pipes apart you can use the pipe expander to change the diameter of the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure not to rip one from expanding it too much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T00:15:54.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2013-01-29T10:48:06.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For recording evidence in the event of an accident, key requirements will include the following in addition to your criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally two cameras, fore and aft facing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively wide angle cameras will be useful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounted within the car, so you can provide evidence of your actions (remember this could count against you if an accident is your fault!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage relatively central in the car, or at least within the passenger compartment, to avoid destruction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two off-the-shelf solutions that could suit you well are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogcamsport.co.uk/motorsports-car-camera-kits.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dogcam&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everfocusonline.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&amp;amp;path=113&amp;amp;gclid=CJ715eewjbUCFe_MtAodej0AKQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EverFocus&lt;/a&gt; - but there are endless numbers of project versions detailed on the Internet. Computer-based PVR solutions give you the most flexibility but are generally the most costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for evidence, your criteria are a little over-specified. You don't need 30fps and high resolution for evidence to be useful - they can help, and high resolution lets the camera pick up number plates etc from a greater distance, but even a 15 fps, black and white camera can be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a GoPro set to its lowest settings has a pretty long record time, and generally whatever solution you use will be hooked in to the ignition so battery is rarely an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T11:11:22.800" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T11:11:22.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1607" CreationDate="2013-01-29T13:33:18.847" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of such cases involve connection between the bike engine and the exhaust system. There might be a problem with the exhaust system which you need to check on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2695" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T17:28:43.867" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T17:28:43.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4589" CreationDate="2013-01-29T14:26:21.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out I was just low on coolant. Once I filled the tank it was fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T14:26:21.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5310" CreationDate="2013-01-29T14:33:26.460" Score="0" ViewCount="9963" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '09 Chevy Traverse, the windshield washer pump stopped working on both the front and back. I first checked for fuses. There was one in the fuse block under the hood, that one looked good. I found another under the dash on the passenger side (what a PITA to get at). That one was blown. I replaced that one and now the rear works. When I try the front, I hear a click (a relay?) but nothing else happens. Any idea if there is another fuse somewhere label incorrectly or where I should look next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T13:19:04.543" Title="Where is the fuse for the front windshield washer pump on a '09 Chevy Traverse?" Tags="|chevrolet|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1750" CreationDate="2013-01-29T14:42:42.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the camshaft position sensor. A bad sensor often makes it surge during idle and make it stutter on low revs. Has the car lost power? Is it difficult to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2696" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T14:42:42.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5279" CreationDate="2013-01-29T15:08:03.443" Score="2" ViewCount="10209" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Honda Civic Aerodeck just failed its MOT (roadworthyness test) on Front Brake Imbalance (51%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the pads a few months ago, and had trouble with both calipers on the driver's side of the car sticking. I tried to free them off, but obviously not well enough at the front (the rear imbalance was only 8%)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to how to reliably free it off? I'm pretty sure the problem lies with the sliders rather than the piston - at least, that was the problem before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for a reliable means of testing it would be helpful too, I don't want to try and fix it and have it fail again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers on the brake test report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measured weight (kgf) Lh 372, Rh 357&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag (kgf) Lh 17, Rh 9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Forces (kgf) Lh 287, Rh 268&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Difference (%) 51&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The discs are worn, but not badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T13:16:29.460" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T13:16:29.460" Title="How to test and repair brake imbalance?" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|braking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2013-01-29T15:34:48.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the pump is seized? This could also cause the fuses to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T15:34:48.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2013-01-29T15:34:54.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After measuring the speakerbays I bought some cheap speakers in standard size closest to my measurements, which fit perfectly. &#xA;The front (dash) speakers are 3-1/2&quot; diameter, the rear (trunk) speakers are 6&quot;x4&quot;. I hope this helps someone else one day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T15:34:54.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2013-01-29T16:05:17.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brake system's balance can fall into several areas of concern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The calipers in and of themselves have sliders and pistons that can cause uneven pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sliders&lt;/strong&gt;: I always remove, clean and grease the sliders first, be mindful that some vehicles actually have rubber on the sliders that will swell over time and cause lockup/drag... just replace the sliders if this is the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pistons&lt;/strong&gt;: The seals on your pistons can become weak and your cylinder walls can become scored. If you lift the dust seal back and any fluid leaks out then you should remanufacture/replace the leaking caliper. I personally would never replace just one side but I leave that decision up to the person spending money. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Conventional brake fluid absorbs moisture. As the fluid becomes diluted by moisture it will become thick and dirty, eventually affecting performance. A good brake flush every 30k - 60k (I do mine every 30k) can help keep your system performance up and also prolong life of the individual components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Equalization components exist in your brake system to compensate for differences in line length and line construction between the master cylinder and the calipers. On my cars this is a solid ported valve design but yours could be different. If you have any equalization through the ABS system or other more dynamic balancing systems then those could become suspect in your search for a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just highlighted a few possibilities and they are pretty much in the order I'd address since brake caliper failure is probably the most common issue you will have aside from brake pad problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T16:05:17.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5281" CreationDate="2013-01-29T16:54:26.100" Score="8" ViewCount="10582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told that when needing to brake quickly, throwing the gear into neutral on an automatic transmission actually allows for better/quicker braking.  I understand how things work pretty well but lack automotive knowledge -- so I cannot really say if this is correct or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't help braking, are there any other actions happening that are positive/negative when this is done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T03:08:40.437" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T19:56:31.280" Title="Does switching to neutral on an automatic transmission improve braking for immediate stopping?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|braking|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2013-01-29T19:17:13.587" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to brake so incredibly hard that you're worried the automatic transmission is getting in the way, you're better off worrying about things besides whether or not you're in neutral. You're probably about to crash or lose control, so train yourself to concentrate on steering, or making sure you're arms are out of the way of the air bag, etc. Worry about anything but the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of power being delivered to the wheels by an automatic transmission is so tiny and insignificant when your foot is off the gas that you should never have to pay it any mind. In theory it might make a difference, but not in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T19:17:13.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T03:16:37.063" Score="1" ViewCount="10096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Chrysler 300M. The fuse for the cigarette lighter blew out randomly, so we replaced it. I tested it afterwards and it worked. A few days later I went back out to use it and the fuse was blown again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an obvious short somewhere, but how can I find and fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I went to try to replace the fuse once more, but this time it didn't work. I checked the manual and it said the cavity (number 6) was the power outlet. There is a 6A and 6B, however. Under the 6A cavity is says IGN and under 6B is says battery. When I got the car it was under 6A and that's what we have been using, but now it didn't appear to work with even a new fuse. I instead put the fuse in cavity 6B and it worked. I just did this so we'll see how if it blows the fuse again, but I'm hoping this solved the problem. I'll update in a few days or if the fuse blows again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2: Well that didn't last long. Fuse blew again. I'll have to wait until a nice day again to try the other suggestions people had and update then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2698" LastEditorUserId="2698" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T23:11:24.577" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T23:11:24.577" Title="Car Cigarette Lighter Keeps Blowing Fuse" Tags="|fuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5285" CreationDate="2013-01-30T03:46:23.453" Score="3" ViewCount="5063" Body="&lt;p&gt;A normal, working car, nothing wrong with it, makes a very distinctive sound when you turn the ignition. I have a vague understanding of a distributor spinning around real quick and firing the spark plugs, but I don't really grasp what's making the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you explain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T08:03:55.530" Title="Explain the sound of a car's ignition?" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2013-01-30T07:03:06.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like utter nonsense to me. Try this experiment. Get up to a set speed (e.g. 60 mph) and then let your foot off the gas pedal and time how long it takes you to get down to a low speed (e.g. 20 mph) &quot;coasting&quot; in gear. Now, repeat the experiment putting the automatic transmission in neutral at the same time you take your foot off the gas, so that you're really coasting, and see how long it takes. I'm betting it's a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T07:03:06.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5283" CreationDate="2013-01-30T07:18:03.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main noise you hear is the starter motor. This is a high torque motor whose purpose is to turn the engine at a rate sufficient to allow it to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run a starter motor with no load it is still quite noisy, but as you will hear when starting your car, it tries to get the engine up to speed, fuel is pumped in, the spark plugs fire, and if all is well the engine spins up. Otherwise you have to try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the cylinders are still compressing a fuel and air mix, the starter motor does not simply accelerate, but instead sounds quite variable as it passes points of high and low compression. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The load is so high that car manuals recommend taking a break after every few tries to avoid overheating the motor, and it is very easy to quickly drain a battery using the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T17:58:59.233" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T17:58:59.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2426" CreationDate="2013-01-30T08:35:51.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually nothing you can do to prevent your wheels from getting dirty. This is the part of the car that gets into contact with the ground. So dirt is inevitable. The only thing that you can do is use protection to prevent them from wearing out quick due to dirt. After cleaning, always wax them and polish them regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T13:31:04.273" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T13:31:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2013-01-30T08:55:30.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a multimeter? Check the current across the fuse (should be zero with nothing plugged in), continuity from fuse-lighter and lighter-ground, and that there isn't any continuity across the lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get to it, unplug the connector from the back of the lighter socket, that way you can check the socket itself separately from the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same fuse power anything else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T08:55:30.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5289" CreationDate="2013-01-30T14:58:06.027" Score="1" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that larger diameter tires, in my case 55/R19 , wear faster than a comparable smaller diameter, say 55/R17 inch tires.  Fact or fiction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2699" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T15:30:52.367" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T15:35:42.893" Title="Tire Diameter Vs Tire Wear" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5288" CreationDate="2013-01-30T15:35:42.893" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see any reason why that would be the case. In fact, on a purely theoretical basis, it ought to be the other way round, as a larger tyre would travel further per revolution (as it has a larger circumference), and so would go through less revolutions for a given distance, thus putting less friction on each square inch of rubber per mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality though, it doesn't make any difference. Compound, weather, road conditions, driving style, etc will affect the wear rate, but I don't think size will, if all other conditions are equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T15:35:42.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5292" CreationDate="2013-01-31T02:23:19.007" Score="11" ViewCount="36549" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that in either case it is a belt that is connected to the crankshaft and via a series of pulleys powers all the peripheral systems of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is also that a fan belt and drive belt are the same thing, and that a V belt and a serpentine belt are subtypes of that entity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please fill in the gaps and correct any mistakes in my understanding of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="1631" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T01:32:51.573" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T01:46:07.410" Title="What is the difference between a V belt and a serpentine belt?" Tags="|belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2013-01-31T03:09:27.870" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;V belts are traditionally found in older motors, where you would have a series of those belts coming off the crankshaft, each to their own individual accessory group (alternator, a/c compressor, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how the belts are staggered?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J8CGR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serpentine belts are much thicker by comparison and generally unify all accessories under one belt system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThTN3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T03:09:27.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1718" CreationDate="2013-01-31T06:41:30.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter. My car had the same problem, no code but the car had cold start problem. It was at the garage for a day, everything checked out good. Out of frustration the macanic changed the fuel filter. That fixed the problem. PS. I didn't know I had to change the fuel filter. I had 90,000 miles on the car, and it was the original fuel filter. My bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2703" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T06:41:30.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2013-01-31T09:06:13.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can hit the breaks hard and quick enough to lock the wheels or activate the ABS with no discernible delay then the engine and transmission is no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2297" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T09:06:13.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5324" CreationDate="2013-01-31T09:17:33.227" Score="1" ViewCount="54336" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I got in my car (&lt;code&gt;Mk3 Golf&lt;/code&gt;) and went to start it. The engine will turn over indefinitely but not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my second attempt, again it would turn over, but as soon as I let go of the key it would stop and let out a big puff of smoke. The smoke (from what I can tell) is coming roughly from the area near the cam belt cover and the top of the block (not sure what else to be looking for around here and terminology. I want to say carburettor?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the HT leads and distributor and they &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; fine. I've also been told it could be the coil. I'm a bit lost though at this point and any suggestions would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2297" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T15:53:00.553" Title="Engine turns over but doesn't start. Puff of smoke" Tags="|starting|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2013-01-31T11:56:02.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start a petrol engine you need three basic things - compression, fuel and spark. If it won't start, you're probably missing one or more of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it sound normal when you turn it over, or does it spin excessively slow or fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after trying to start it, smell the area around the exhaust. Can you smell unburnt fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big puff of smoke from the top of the engine sounds concerning. It sounds like it's coming from the inlet side around the injector area? Does it look like oily smoke (black or blue), steam (white) or fuel vapour? Smell might also help here, but be caseful in case it is hot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the oil look like? Pull the dipstick, and check for a thick fluid of mayonnaise-like appearance. Does it look like there is oil in the coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HT systems have a habit of failing whil still looking fine. To test that, remove one of the plug leads, and attach it to a spare spark plug. Lay the plug on the top of the engine, so that the threaded bit of the plug is in contact with an unpainted bit of engine. Try to start it, and watch the plug to see if there is a strong spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T11:56:02.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2013-01-31T14:45:13.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting it in neutral will somewhat reduce your available braking force, as you're removing engine braking from things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No power is going to go from the &quot;idling&quot; engine to the wheels in anything relatively modern.  Basically every fuel injected engine since the 80s implements deceleration fuel cutoff (DFCO), which stops injecting fuel if the wheels are in motion and your foot is off the gas.  As a result, the engine is only kept spinning by pulling energy in backwards, somewhat braking the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit is that by removing the engine from the equation, you get much more controllable and predictable braking, which is important in extreme conditions, like stopping on ice, especially if one doesn't have anti-lock brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastEditorUserId="2478" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T14:51:22.527" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T14:51:22.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5228" CreationDate="2013-01-31T14:54:03.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One popular possibility is oil leaking past the rear main seal when running, accumulating in the transmission's bellhousing, and then draining from there when parked. Happens a lot when rear mains start to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil around the rear of the oil pan, on the bottom of the transmission are all good signs of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4wjuD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear main leak&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T14:54:03.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5183" CreationDate="2013-01-31T14:59:19.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really believe there's something noticeably wrong, ask the dealer if you can test drive an identical vehicle with a technician in the car with you. Then drive your car the same route at the same speeds with the same technician. If there's truly a noticeable difference, he'll be more inclined to admit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's a very subjective thing to measure without a full suspension testing center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T15:45:56.257" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T15:45:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2013-01-31T17:17:29.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;V belts also derive their name from the cross-section of the belt itself.  In the first photo above a V belt will ride in grooves on the pulleys.  Serpentine belts don't have this same cross-section because as you can see in the 2nd photo both sides of the belt come in contact with various pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get ready for some awesome ASCII artwork of a V belt cross section: :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; _______&#xA;|       |&#xA; \     /&#xA;  \___/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2705" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T17:17:29.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-31T19:40:53.093" Score="4" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has an 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo that sat for about 6 years before she got it 3 years ago. It’s having a few electrical problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temperature gauge doesn’t work. I replaced the sender with a GM replacement and it worked for a few minutes, then cut out again. I checked the voltage and its 3.5-ish, but when I manipulate the connector it jumps to 5 V, so I’m assuming I have to replace the connector ($50 for a 6-inch pair of wires with connectors).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it wont crank over. Lights come on, fuel pump turns, gauges come up, but no crank, until I pop the hood. Simply pulling the hood release lever makes it work again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When she hits a bump, the gauges lose power, engine sputters, runs rough, and will die if you let it idle. However, if you turn it off and then on, it will sometimes work, though opening and closing the hood always makes it start working again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have rebuilt the alternator, replaced the battery, replaced the water pump, replaced the plastic intake manifold, and a few other things that I can’t think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She tried to have an aftermarket radio installed that never worked, and the stock radio doesn’t work either, they apparently if you open and slam the trunk a few dozen times it will work for a little while. They did a hack job trying to put the radio in, I found wires jammed into the fuse for the pcm, and the main harness sliced open and spliced into for power and who knows what else. So I need to remove all that garbage and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking there are grounding issues also, or a faulty BCM or PCM, and I heard something about the crankshaft position sensor possibly causing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where else to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T13:23:33.960" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:35:26.063" Title="01 Monte Carlo electrical gremlins" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5303" CreationDate="2013-01-31T20:24:27.280" Score="9" ViewCount="26870" Body="&lt;p&gt;This confuses me. The point of a differential is to make it so the wheels don't slip when one needs to be turning faster than the other, such as during turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the rear wheels are directly connected by a solid axle, doesn't that force them to turn together? How is turning handled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T05:30:50.507" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T08:44:27.917" Title="Why don't FWD cars have rear differentials?" Tags="|axle|differential|front-wheel-drive|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5302" CreationDate="2013-01-31T20:46:41.733" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWD cars dont have a rear axle, the wheels are mounted independently, there may be some situations where there is a tube there, but it will not have an axle shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T20:46:41.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5228" CreationDate="2013-01-31T20:49:43.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front main seal is a likely culprit also, where the majority of it is pooling when you park can tell a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T20:49:43.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5302" CreationDate="2013-01-31T21:25:20.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheels just ride independently on bearings, they aren't connected by an axle like in a RWD vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you misunderstand the true purpose of a differential.  A ring and pinion is necessary to take the rotation of the driveshaft and change it's rotational axis.  That is, the driveshaft is spinning about an axis from front to back of the vehicle and something needs to convert this rotational force perpendicularly to turn wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True that differentials (non-spools) allow one wheel to &quot;slip&quot; but that is a design to handle that scenario rather than the true intent of the differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2705" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T21:25:20.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2013-01-31T21:30:23.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just add a comment but I don't have enough points I guess.  I just wanted to say you are addressing it correctly.  The wrong thing to do (but tempting) is to just throw a bigger fuse in there.  Avoid that temptation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that someone (previous owner maybe) has tapped into that circuit since it's an easily available 12V source.  Trace the circuit from the fuse panel all the way to the lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2705" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T21:30:23.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5246" CreationDate="2013-01-31T21:52:02.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a lack of fuel getting to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get it hot, turn it off pull a fuel line and crank the engine, see if any diesel comes out. It could be a fuel line softening up when it gets warm and pinching shut due to the suction from the pump. If thats the case, replace your fuel lines with proper diesel rated lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T21:52:02.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2013-01-31T22:09:30.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, though very unlikely, to create an explosion multiple factors are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. A nearly empty gas tank. (Gasoline by itself is not explosive, the vapors are)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. A failure of the venting system, allows the vapors to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C. A rupture of the fuel tank, allowing the fuel vapors and oxygen to mix to the right ratio to allow combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. Some sort of spark or flame that exists at the same time that the ratio is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T22:09:30.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5229" CreationDate="2013-01-31T23:38:08.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the oportunity to put an aftermarket bumper on it at the insurance companies expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somthing like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/wj-grand-cherokee-rear-bumper-wo-tire-carrier-p-827/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/wj-grand-cherokee-rear-bumper-wo-tire-carrier-p-827/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cheaper, looks good, and is much stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insurance claims completly paid of my Dodge Ram for me, and I just fixed everything with aftermarket parts. (My truck has been hit 2 times now, while parked, while I wasnt in it, and someone broke into it and stole my radio). Tubing bumpers, stero system, dash, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 01 WJ also, and I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T23:38:08.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2013-02-01T04:58:50.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I replaced my pump... and it still didn't work. After doing some more looking I discovered that I read the fuse map wrong and put the fuse in the wrong spot. After putting it in the right spot it started to work. Since I know you can't take used electronic parts back, I just kept it in and kept the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, to get at the pump, you have to remove the wheel and open up the wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T04:58:50.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5301" CreationDate="2013-02-01T14:35:26.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be gremlins!  ( or some other vermin :-). If the car stored so long it is possible that some animal chewed the cables causing this kind of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could you do is to find every connector in you car and eyeball it. (open and check) My cable was wet and dirty inside but after a clean up it worked again. Ask your wife to move the hood leveler and check which cables/thing moved during that, it may help to locate the problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace all fuses with new ones, they may not contact well. Make sure that the new ones fitt in place. Shake the fuses when cars are moves slowly to check them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the radio, it may cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start removing fuses (lamps, radio, ) and see it is solve the problem or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the ground for battery. If you are able to then simply install a new ground (wire the ground to the car metal body). Replace the battery connector if they show any wear (they are cheap). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check voltage during driving, it may drop for some kind of reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugin a OBD recorder that is able to store its data to see which error codes are reported: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/obd-ii-code-reader-define.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/obd-ii-code-reader-define.php&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/CAR-DATA-RECORDER-OBD-DATALOGGER/dp/B005T5NE4A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:35:26.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T17:12:28.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;So we've had some mornings dipping down below 5deg F recently here in WI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good: my stripped-down 1993 Mustang starts, can run, and drives just fine in this weather. This is the 2.3L N/A, with an after-market intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad: if you don't baby the throttle for the first few minutes, the motor will drop to idle, sputter, and just die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We just changed the oil (5w30 full syntehtic). &#xA;The motor has plenty of coolant.&#xA;The temperature gauge never rises to normal-temp, but the block definitely holds heat just fine. We're investigating problems with the thermostat, temp gauge, and the radiator fan. The idle does drop as it should though after the car has warmed up, so this doesn't seem to be affecting the IAC at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is possibly that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1134076,parttype,6072&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;idle air control valve&lt;/a&gt; is not enjoying the cold weather. I'm not very familiar with this particular type of IAC. (I'm used to stepper motors.) -- Is this in effect just a set screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to note is during this time your foot must be on the brake, as the car currently has no handbrake [previous owner cut the cable; I assume it was seized or frozen]. &#xA;Holding the brakes could impact the vacuum system, but this shouldn't kill the car even in these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you diagnose problems with the IAC aside from just replacing it? And is there anything else I should test first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[For what it's worth: the car starts and idles fine once the temperature is above say 10-15 deg F; so it's definitely temperature dependent.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastEditorUserId="838" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T16:02:43.007" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:02:43.007" Title="1993 Mustang dies at idle in extremely cold weather" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5098" CreationDate="2013-02-01T18:55:56.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOLUTION&lt;/strong&gt;: As is turns out, I was not connected to the VATS resistor value/ground reference wires at all. The PLJX instructions SUCK and give almost no info on VATS systems while everything is written up more for the older Passlock I and II systems. I had followed the instructions as spot-on as I could and found the yellow/black/green wire that was inside a grey sheath in the ignition harness and hooked up in to that. According to the PLJX instructions yellow was resistance ref, black ground, and green was keysense, although that one likely wasn't required to be hooked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out for VATS the actual VATS value wires are in a different grey sheath [orange in some vehicles] and is traceable all the way back to the key cylinder itself. Inside this sheath are two TINY white [or yellow] wires. You then have to SUPER carefully strip them with a razor as even the smallest gauge hole in my wire strippers didn't even nick the insulation. Then read each with a multi-meter. With the key in the ignition and in the ON position the resistance reference wire will read a few volts. The ground will most likely read almost nothing or negative voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - the &quot;ground output from remote starter&quot; is the STATUS wire on most remote starters. On my Viper 4103XV it is the blue status output wire on the satellite harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got hooked in to the correct wires, programmed, then hooked up the PLJX to the status wire [which must be done AFTER programming] it has worked perfectly without fail since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figured I'd post the solution here as I finally got some help from the wonderful people at the12volt.com's forums after trying many, many other places with nobody knowing what was going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2580" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T18:24:49.327" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T18:24:49.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2013-02-01T20:04:24.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the question is &quot;what can cause a car to catch on fire&quot; rather than &quot;what can cause a spectacular movie-style explosion&quot;, then things are a little more wide open!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the car runs by burning gasoline inside of a metal box (the engine) - things therefore get quite hot in the normal course of operation, and a good deal of engineering has been devoted to making sure that that heat is dissipated safely.  Lots of things can go wrong and cause the simple heat of running an engine to start a fire or at least make things very smoky and scary for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dirty air filter - I'll be honest, I have no idea why a dirty air filter would be more dangerous than a clean one.  Bad for your engine, yes, but more likely to catch fire? Dunno.  That being said, I still remember a visit from the fire department to our grammar school and the emphasis they laid on replacing your filters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Foreign objects - This has happened to me twice:  once, a sheet of paper flew up from the road and lodged under the exhaust manifold: no flames, but the cabin filled with smoke.  Years later - different car - a walnut fell off our tree into the engine compartment (the grill between the edge of the hood and the windshield was broken) and nestled in between the valve covers.  Again, no flames but a choking cloud of smoke and a stink that took months to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fluid leaks - Oil, transmission fluid, brake/steering fluid - they're all flammable (at high temperatures).  Wipe up any spills, and be careful of leaking fluid lines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic converter - underneath the car, runs your exhaust gas through a catalyst to burn off any unburned hydrocarbons.  Gets VERY hot!  I attended high school up in the mountains, and the father of one of my classmates drove over a tree branch while collecting wood in his pickup.  A chunk got wedged between the catalytic converter and the truckbed (I don't know how he managed that!) and as he was driving down the hill a few days later it caught fire.  He was OK, and they got the fire put out before it reached the gas tank, but the back end of the truck was a total loss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T20:04:24.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5320" CreationDate="2013-02-02T11:48:44.980" Score="3" ViewCount="2404" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local mechanic who replaced my motorcycle tyre tube added what looked like talcum powder to the insides of the tyre before inserting the new tube. I asked him the advantage of doing that and he didn't know for sure. He just said it helps the tube move freely in the tyre. Sounded like nonsense to me, so I Googled it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were three opinions I came across:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talcum powder does not help at all&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-272672.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It helps reduce friction between tyre and tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. &lt;a href=&quot;http://draco.nac.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8b.11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It prevents the tube from vulcanizing and sticking to the tyre when it gets too hot&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of these reasons credible? Which is the real reason for using talcum powder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2018-10-20T04:08:05.810" Title="Is talcum powder really beneficial for a tyre tube?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5317" CreationDate="2013-02-02T12:55:35.233" Score="7" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2004 Kia Spectra.  It only has 47,000 miles on it (I don't drive much)  When I had the transmission fluid changed they said the 3 outer belts needed to be replaced due to dry rot. I am in Texas so guess this is possible.  When I called to make the appt to take it in, the guy said I needed 'for maintenance' to have the timing belt replaced, as well as coolent, spark plugs and the three belts.  Thus far I've not had any problems with my car and do regular oil changes, etc.  What is your opinion please?  I have friends that are saying there is No need.  I'm an elderly female and don't want to be taken advantage of.&#xA;Thank you in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T09:41:29.143" Title="Should I replace the Timing belt in 2004 Kia" Tags="|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2013-02-02T13:23:52.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the timing belt is &quot;probably&quot; okay, you have to weight the costs and benefits of not replacing it. From what I can tell, this car has an interference engine, meaning if the timing belt breaks, the cylinders will smash into the valves. As long as they don't break off and also tear up the cylinders/combustion chamber, this is a difficult but doable job for someone with car repair experience to do themselves, but if you need to take it to a professional to repair, you're looking at a repair bill possibly exceeding the value of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, if there's any good indication the timing belt needs replacement, I'd just do it. If the shop is asking too much, shop around for a cheaper price or get a book and do it yourself (admittedly it sounds like this option is not for the OP) -- but remember, if you mess up the timing when installing the new one, then in a best-case you're just going to get horrible engine performance and smoking, and in a worst case you'll smash the valves just like if the timing belt broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T13:35:47.353" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T13:35:47.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-03T01:50:15.693" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Legacy that is overheating. After looking over the car, it only overheats under load after driving for about 5 min after it warms up. It happened before and i noticed the coolant had a brownish hue to it and the catch tank was dirty as all hell. After flushing the system and replacing the cap and thermostat it started overheating again a month or so later. Now it coolant is very brown and the catch tank is filthy again. the car only overheats under load. I also have a check engine light that comes on every so often. It will be on for a week, then turn off for a few days, then turn back on again. And when i got the light checked i got an P0440 code. If it helps any, it has the 2.5L motor in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2716" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:53:48.313" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T15:53:48.313" Title="96 Legacy Overheating" Tags="|subaru|legacy|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5429" CreationDate="2013-02-03T04:36:21.630" Score="4" ViewCount="21140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that I need to follow these steps to replace a drive belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a breaker bar and 19 mm socket and turn the tensioner release nut clockwise to release tension on the belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put on new belt (following diagram).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put tension back onto belt by turning tensioner release nut counter clockwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am having is that I cannot get a socket onto the release nut as there is not enough room between the nut and the fender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fCf8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Bolt pictured above is the wrong one - the one I should have been trying to turn is part of the tensioner body and is not really a bolt per se but a &quot;handle&quot; if you will to attach your wrench to (see this video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX27hH39mQM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX27hH39mQM&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be trying again when I have time and will update further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2700" LastEditorUserId="2700" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T16:44:44.827" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T00:45:52.330" Title="How to loosen drive belt tensioner on 2007 Toyota Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|belt|corolla|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5315" CreationDate="2013-02-03T07:50:46.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As regards your option no 2, it can often be awkward getting the tube to sit evenly in the tyre. Powder allows it to move without sticking, making it easier to fit the tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T07:50:46.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1291" CreationDate="2013-02-03T16:01:51.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't wax under your car and that's where the rust is/starts. Today cars are much better protected with galvanised body panels and therefore wax on the outside of the car is only cosmetic. Bought a Triumph Vitesse (Brand New} in 1969 and it already had rust on the body seam. We wouldn't stand for it today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2720" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T16:01:51.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5325" CreationDate="2013-02-03T20:38:37.300" Score="9" ViewCount="37167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am waiting for a 2013 STI and have been looking into upping the performance, but before I go down that road I would like to thoroughly understand the components in a forced induction vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of reading but I'm still confused as to the difference between a blow-off valve and a wastegate. These two components seem to do the same job ie. prevent too much boost/pressure from being created. From what I understand, the BOV releases air if the PSI gets past a certain point and the wastegate prevents exhaust gases from spooling the turbine past a certain pressure. Am I missing something? I'm sure I am. Could someone please clarify for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2625" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:31:20.400" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T00:35:53.430" Title="What is the function of a blow-off valve vs a wastegate?" Tags="|engine-theory|turbocharger|forced-induction|waste-gate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5326" CreationDate="2013-02-03T22:04:51.077" Score="2" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that intake manifolds distribute the fuel evenly to all the fuel injectors-- but then I read that the fuel rail did that exact same thing. So obviously I'm missing something. Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T13:19:42.723" Title="What is the difference between an intake manifold and a fuel rail?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2013-02-04T09:13:14.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues with American-spec 2.0 ABA motor. Now that you had clarified that it still occasionally starts, broken timing belt is not the issue. The proper tune-up, however, might be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I had was due to the fact that my spark plug wires were worn, and reacted poorly to damp environment. More likely, because of deteriorated insulation with micro-cracks through which moisture could come in contact with the leads and cause shorting. I would have trouble starting in wet weather, and after a car wash it would not start for an hour at its worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the new wires could be all that is needed, full tune-up kit, including distributor cap and rotor, should not be very expensive, and it is a good idea to replace those parts. I would not, however buy the new coil until you see if the tune-up kit rectifies the problem, or, otherwise, I would still check if it operates properly before you start replacing half of your engine compartment. Check the battery as well, while you’re at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T09:13:14.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2013-02-04T09:29:58.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The waste gate is designed (as you'll see in Bob's excellent answer to his linked question) to avoid spinning the turbo up unless needed. This saves fuel and wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blow off valve or dump valve is designed to stop a compression wave passing back into the turbo when you close the throttle, as this wave could stall the turbo completely, which can put high stress on the turbo, as well as making it take a long time to spin back up again (turbo lag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T09:29:58.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5323" CreationDate="2013-02-04T11:16:52.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inlet manifold distributes the air to the cylinders. In a modern car with multi-point injection, the fuel rail then delivers the fuel to the injectors, which sit just before the cylinder inlets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an older car with a carburettor or single-point injection, the fuel will be mixed into the air before the manifold, and the mixture will then be distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T13:19:42.723" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T13:19:42.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1264" CreationDate="2013-02-04T14:14:29.240" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not really matter what amount of pressure there is in your tires. What you need to take into consideration is that there is compatibility. Otherwise you are deemed to fail. To your second question, I wonder why you are thinking of gluing the tires to the wheel whether it is for your car or bike. I through back a question to you: Of what benefit will it be when you get to glue them together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2695" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T18:11:50.660" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T18:11:50.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:33:35.423" Score="1" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my 2003 Toyota Matrix in to the dealership for service.  It has 105,000 miles - the oxygen sensor needed replacing, but no other issues found.  Now I feel as though I need to shift to a higher gear from 5th gear and that's the highest gear I have.  The tachometer is at 3,000 at 70 mph, which seems normal, but I can feel the engine under my foot and I can hear it as well.  It also feels somewhat sluggish at that speed, as though the car needs 6th gear.  Any ideas?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2721" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T18:05:31.083" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T06:16:04.850" Title="Toyota manual transmission problem" Tags="|engine|toyota|rough-idle|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5330" CreationDate="2013-02-04T18:05:07.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the oxygen sensor needed replacing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have identified the root of all of your issues.  Depending on exactly what is happening with your faulty O2 sensor, it could affect any aspect of the intake-combustion-exhaust cycle.  I would expect exactly the sort of symptoms that you cite; specifically, rough idle and reduced performance are to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T18:05:07.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5333" CreationDate="2013-02-04T22:17:08.210" Score="10" ViewCount="55566" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I told this little story to the dealership service department, and they were baffled. Never heard of anything like it in ten years, said they'd have to examine it very closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happened two months ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a Subaru Legacy 97. I turned the car on and was about to shift out of Park to drive away, so I stepped on the brake and as I did so, my headlights dimmed, my radio volume shrank and all the interior displays hiccuped. I took my hand off the shift, all thoughts of driving forgotten, and started playing with the brake. It did the same thing repeatedly. After a few tries, I &lt;em&gt;stomped&lt;/em&gt; on the brake and &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; blinked off entirely for a second, and the engine nearly shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electricity came back in less than half a second -- it wasn't a prolonged outage -- just a brief interruption --  so the engine caught itself and stayed running. But for just a moment, the whole car had shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happened once to that extent once, and I have been unable to reproduce it. Sometimes, however, braking does ever so slightly dim my interior displays, so there is a definite consistency to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the dealership had no idea, I thought I'd try tapping the infinite well of experience that is Mechanics.SE. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T07:57:42.193" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T04:24:52.390" Title="Why would my electrical systems cut out when I brake?" Tags="|electrical|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5332" CreationDate="2013-02-04T23:29:34.053" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure enough, you've got a damaged wire that is shorting out the entire electrical system. So think about what happens when you press on the brake pedal, it sends power to your brake lights at the back of the car, so if one of those wires were shorting, you would only notice it when you tap the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is, this doesn't happen very often, because that's what fuses are for. Your brake light fuse should blow when your brake lights short out, preventing the problem from spreading to the rest of your car and killing your engine. So some how the problem seems to be bypassing a fuse. You should check your fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T23:29:34.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5339" CreationDate="2013-02-05T00:30:13.460" Score="6" ViewCount="9292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a nail in my tire the other day. Its wedged in the tire so tightly that the tire isnt actually losing pressure. A friend told me I could fix it myself by using a kind of volcanised rubber glue in a syringe to plug the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was my understanding that this was only a temporary fix to get you out of a trouble if you are in the middle of no where, but my friend insists it can be a permanent fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T10:00:15.900" Title="Motorcycle: Puncture in tubeless tire. OK to plug yourself?" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5318" CreationDate="2013-02-05T06:59:49.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brownish color of the coolant means that oil and coolant circuits mix. This is most probably a symptom of a leaking head gasket. If this is the case you should have it repaired asap, as it typically affects not only heating but also lubrication, and this can seriously damage the engine over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2724" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T06:59:49.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-05T07:14:16.203" Score="7" ViewCount="59036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have locks on few vehicles that are in need of lubricating. I had read/heard of several options, and I wanted to see what are the common methods and techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graphite powder.&lt;/strong&gt; Quite a few people suggested it, including parts shop salesman, so I gave it a try. At first I didn’t realise it was a dry powder (I assumed it was some sort of graphite-based grease), so I ended up getting my hands dirty, but did not get much of an improvement in the end. I could not puff it into the lock itself as the tube opening was too large for the lock slit, so I got some on my key, and tried to get as much as possible inside the lock cylinder. Is there a good method of application of graphite powder? Does it even work as good as it should? I don’t see how it would protect the lock from the elements (which would be an issue with cars with exposed locks, and with motorcycles).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid lubricant.&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously, using something like general-purpose spray lubricant would not do much good, as it would just run off out of the lock cylinder and make a mess. However, I had seen some advice about using some sort of sticky spray (would lithium grease work?) that could work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grease.&lt;/strong&gt; Is it possible to use some sort of clean grease for the locks? If it is, would putting the grease on the key and working it inside the lock be sufficient, or is it better to take the lock cylinder out in order to properly lubricate its innards?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T13:45:50.120" Title="How to lubricate automotive locks?" Tags="|locks|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5334" CreationDate="2013-02-05T07:27:35.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am yet to own a bike with tubeless tyres meself, but I did have some punctures, and consequently researched if I could go tubeless so as to be able to do easier repairs on the side of the road. And while there are no consensus (you put two gear-heads together and get three opinions out of them on this subject), one argument I had seen time and time again is that you only have two wheels, and it is some added risk you would have to make a decision about. Catastrophic failure of one motorcycle tyre could be a lot more dangerous than the same thing happening to one or even two car wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not dismiss the idea of long-term repairs of motorcycle tubeless tyres as yet, and I know that those could be quite expensive, but you may want err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T07:27:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2013-02-05T07:37:03.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tiny shot of WD40 injected with the attached straw does a decent job for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2724" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T07:37:03.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5334" CreationDate="2013-02-05T11:40:24.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original tubeless tire plug consisted of a small piece of heavy twine that was impregnated with a self vulcanizing adhesive. It was inserted with a forked tool from the tread side of the tire. Over the years they have fallen out of favor and in many locations are illegal. They rope plugs have been replaced by a mushroom shaped plug. The new plug is inserted from the interior of the tire. the larger piece acts as a patch and the stem plugs the hole. The top of the plug is too large to fit thru the puncture. This greatly reduces the chance of catastophic failure that was possible with the rope plugs. In your case I would take the chance and use them for an emergency repair. Reduce your speed and ride with caution until you can have it properly repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T11:40:24.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5318" CreationDate="2013-02-05T13:39:19.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply overheating would not contaminate the coolant. As answered above, it could be contaminated with engine oil, or even transmission fluid if the radiator has an integrated transmission heat exchanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also have combustion gases leaking into a coolant passage, either through a crack or a failed head gasket. I'd suggest a compression test to see if you have a cylinder low. Alternately, there are combustion leak test kits. Google that term to find them, and they are about $50. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T13:39:19.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2013-02-05T15:29:49.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend a greaseless lubricant (LPS makes a good one, as do other companies).  Graphite is technically better, but is very messy and hard to be effective with.  I discourage WD-40 / oils as they tend to attract dirt that causes you to need to clean/relube it sooner.  I &lt;em&gt;strongly&lt;/em&gt; discourage grease and silicone lubes, those make a big mess and lead to gummed up locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T15:29:49.503" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-05T16:30:30.883" Score="2" ViewCount="1842" Body="&lt;p&gt;So one night i parked my car and the next morning it was dead. It cranked like a half then 1/4 then nothing barely enough for lights on dash. I boosted it and it fired right up ran fine. Turned it off. After 1 min fired right up again. Went to Safeway came out fired right up. Came home left it for about 3-4 hours dead. Boosted it again fired right up. Went to Canadian tire for new battery came out fired right up. Each time when the car is off i can hear a buzzing or groaning sound coming from the battery area but im sure its not coming from the battery its self. The alternator is brand new and its charging over 15v never had any dimming lights on dash or headlights. Now that i hooked up the new battery it made the sound soon as i hooked it up so i left it unhooked to prevent drain if there was any. The next morning i went out and hooked it up there was no sound but after about 3 min it started like ...    .   .. ............ then stopped again. Sound is only there when car is off and it has been cold out.  We had a few days of -40 then it has been +3 up till this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive talked to a few people and they said it could be the regulator but i searched it up and there was no light issues nor indicators of that and there was a small amount of corrosion on the neg post but i cleaned that off completely before i removed the old battery. Now my issue is was it the old battery? Pretty new id say a year or 2 or is its this odd buzzing that i don't remember ever hearing before? I dont have the money to replace the mysterious part if that's the cause so i dont wanna take it in right away and i was gonna borrow a voltmeter and such in the next few days to do further testing. Any input from experience or otherwise appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T17:34:19.863" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:06:44.437" Title="dead battery 350z limited possiblities still eluding what is it?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5330" CreationDate="2013-02-06T06:16:04.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oxygen sensor gives feedback to the control unit about how &quot;appropriate&quot; the amount of injected fuel for a given air amount sucked into the cylinders was. If it's faulty, the control unit typically applies some sort of heuristics (&quot;guessing&quot;), so two situations are likely to occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;less fuel than optimal (&quot;lean&quot; mixture) - this means poor performance&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;more fuel than optimal (&quot;rich&quot; mixture) - means some fuel left over after combustion and reduced mileage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's also important, leftover fuel in the exhaust gases can destroy the catalytic converter over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2724" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T06:16:04.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5349" CreationDate="2013-02-06T15:57:24.583" Score="3" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 89 Mercedes and a few days ago the wiper blades stopped working as well as the windows. They were iced over and I cleaned off the ice and tried again the next day. There is no sound when turning things on. I also tried the windshield washer fluid and nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still very cold and I think the arm may be up a few inches rather than in its start position but I would have to check again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T22:23:12.353" Title="Wiper blades not moving, electric windows not moving" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5342" CreationDate="2013-02-06T19:29:51.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a multimeter in line with the battery to measure the current. (Sorry, for bad english)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove fuses one by one. When the current drops you found the faulty part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you removed all the fuses and something still drain your battery the something wrong between the battery and the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method helped me to find the porblem (aftermarket alarm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T19:29:51.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2013-02-07T14:15:15.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original poster of this question said he replaced one glow plug, but didn't say whether he checked if the glow plugs were actually working. A diesel suddenly becoming hard to start, only starting on warmer days, and/or after long cranking times, are all consistent with the glow plugs not operating at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest looking at the glow plug relay or controller. I expect you'll find they aren't turning on at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T14:15:15.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5344" CreationDate="2013-02-07T17:34:43.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Bob mentioned in the comments the problem was the fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything is working again. On a side note, another fuse was blown and after replacing that the sunroof is working again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW For future reference the fuses are special fuses (not sure if they are special or not) in that I had to get them at an auto store. You can look online, for example Amazon, and give it your make and model and it will describe the type of fuses you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="2727" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T17:44:47.120" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T17:44:47.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2013-02-08T03:50:34.067" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my Camry with 18 wheels and really smart alloy rims and within 2.5 years I have scraped all the rims not to mentioned cupped the rubber out of the tyres in one or two cases I must have popped them or had a slow leak. The outdoor street parking with crooked curbs and high curbs in Bondi has given rise to having to get 6 new wheels since I bought the car. The tread ground down easily as I didn't realise the air was on the low side either. Also the turning is fantastic can get in and out of small spaces but the rubber boot has split a few times because of the turning range. This caused dirt to get in to my steering wheel drive shaft. I think I am going to find some 15 inch wheels so that I can at least get 2 adults into the back seat without the scraping sound when the weight sits on the big wheels. Also on a wet day I slowly braked around a bend and the car did a 90 degree rotation. The car performed beautifully as the wheels kept me on the road and came to a standstill. I found myself looking at the fence in the middle of the road but I don't think much of the road grip in rain on wide tyres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T03:50:34.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-08T16:13:13.490" Score="5" ViewCount="6425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS 4x4, and I'd like to install a plow.  I want to avoid damaging the truck, as it's also my primary means of transportation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to do anything to stiffen up the frame, or can I simply install the plow as is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I have to worry about here (transmission wear, tire/suspension damage, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="511" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T16:21:56.953" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T22:25:17.603" Title="Can I install a plow on my stock Silverado?" Tags="|winter|truck|frame|installation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-08T17:52:40.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;Few months ago our 1999 Escort Wagon (third North American generation, standard 2.0L CVH motor, about 120 000 miles (roughly 200 000 km)) exited the building with a bang. That is, driving down the street loud bang occured, and it died. It was possible to start it afterwards, but it would run really loud, and have no power. It was necessary to rev it really high just to get off the road. If that matters, oil on the dip-stick was clean, with no metal shavings, coolant or any other contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the weather is warming up, it is time to access the situation, and see if the car can be salvaged. When we took it to the mechanic, they said it was “probably” the piston rod that broke, and it was cheaper to replace the engine ($1500 for refurbished one, with labour included) than to rebuild what was there. I was not willing pay that much to fix 13-year old car we just recently bought for $2000. Also, a friend told me that if the rod broke, it was unlikely it would turn at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later I’ve been told that there is a common problem with CVH engines: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CVH_engine#Valve_Seat_failure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;valve seat can drop&lt;/a&gt;, causing all sorts of damage. It is said that it often happens without warning, but I must admit the car was running rather loud, and was a bit sluggish when we bought it. In the hindsight, we shouldn’t have, but it was otherwise so clean, and well-maintained, I closed my eyes on that at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the questions are, where should I begin? Would it be obvious what happened by taking off valve cover and/or intake manifold, or should I remove the whole head? What can I see if I drain the oil, drop the pan, and take a look at the bottom end? Given that it was run at least for two to three minutes afterwards (to get it off the road, and later to check what is happening), would the damage be too extensive (pistons, head and cylinder walls, bent rods), or, at least, how do I determine that? Depending on the extent of the damage, can most of this be repaired without taking out the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T21:57:40.730" Title="Determining the cause of engine failure in 1999 Ford Escort (NA)" Tags="|engine|ford|escort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5352" CreationDate="2013-02-08T17:54:11.577" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plowed with a Chevy 1500 and a Ford F250. You could definitely feel the weight of the plow more on the smaller 1500 compared to the F250. The 1500 would squat quite a bit when the plow was lifted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plow (a Western brand) was professionally installed on both trucks, and the only issues we ever had were electrical with the plow controls, the same kind of trouble that is typical with trailer wiring--connections and wiring exposed to the weather are always problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1500 with the Western plow did a fine job. The truck eventually had some noise from the final drive/differential, but it had been used for professional plowing and landscaping for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you have the plow installed professionally, you don't have anything else to worry about. Take the plow off whenever you can, because it's no fun driving around with it on the truck--all that weight out front really screws with the handling, and it's quite possible to bottom out the plow when going over humps in the road at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T17:54:11.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5354" CreationDate="2013-02-08T21:25:57.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm by no means an expert in engine repair, so take this answer more as a starting point than a conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the dropped valve seat, you may be able to determine this by taking out the spark plugs and inspecting the combustion chambers, though I expect this will be very difficult without some sort of specialized tool (automotive endoscope?). Maybe somebody more familiar with this problem could provide some photos for you to look at that would make it easier to evaluate the situation. Otherwise you'll probably have to take off the head, which is a pain, but considering that if this is the problem you'll want to replace the head anyway, it might not be a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's anything useful you can determine from underneath as to whether the valve seat dropped, but you might need to inspect from below to determine whether there was additional damage such as bent connecting rods mentioned in the article you linked. If it were me, I'd start the search from the top and only bother dropping the pan once I had a good idea what went wrong and whether it might be fixable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T21:25:57.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-08T22:07:45.803" Score="0" ViewCount="3219" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Nissan Micra is a 51 usually a good runner however today after work on my way down the main road which is 60 my car would not gain speed. It would only reach 40 at a push. When I’ve arrived to my destination it smelt. I lifted the bonnet and some smoke came out: not a lot, but enough to question. I’ve checked my oil and it was bone empty. I have topped it up and took it for a run and has picked speed up like normal. I only topped the oil up before Christmas. Is this normal or should I be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2738" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-09T01:28:22.263" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:20:10.840" Title="Nissan Micra oil leak" Tags="|oil|nissan|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5352" CreationDate="2013-02-08T22:25:17.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As@ mac has stated a plow will fit and the truck will push snow. The primary considerations are how often and how long are you going to plow. The longer and more frequently you plow the more the suspension and driveline  parts will be stressed. If you are just doing a few driveways you should have no problems. If you plan to plow commercially for long periods be prepared for repair bills. Have the trucks suspension, cooling and drive line inspected prior to having the plow instaled. Replace anything that is worn with heavy duty parts if they are available. If it has an automatic trans, consider getting an auxillary transmission cooler. When it comes to regular servicing follow the manufacturers guideline for severe duty use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T22:25:17.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-02-09T14:29:12.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the USA and not aware of some products mentioned. The basic idea is to use a very mild abrasive and a wax, both in the same product. I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Just rub hard with a rag. The repaired area will match surrounding paint. Any minor scratches in your paint will remain, but all foreign paint will be cleanly removed without the dulling caused by rubbing compound or other abrasives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T09:00:42.860" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:00:42.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T22:20:25.710" Score="0" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my car this morning and backed up out of my parking spot.  When I left the parking lot I lost steering (the response from the wheel is extremely stiff and behaves as if there is no power steering.) There are no leaks indicating loss of power steering fluid and the reservoir is full, so I am at a loss for ideas.  What do you think could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2741" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T17:20:42.670" Title="steering does not respond appropriately" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2013-02-10T03:03:44.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age of the car you may be experiencing &quot;steering rack morning sickness&quot;. If it gets better as the car warms up you most likely have a steering rack that is on its' way out. This is a common first symptom of rack failure. Generally it occurs after the car has sat for an extended period like overnight. It will get gradually take longer and longer for the power steering to come back. At some point the power assist will fail. Since steering is a pretty important function you should have it checked by your mechanic to verify that nothing is near immenant failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T03:03:44.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2013-02-10T04:00:40.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the power steering belt. If the belt is slipping, it would probably squeal horribly, but it might not if it's really loose. It could also have broken, in which case there would be no sound. If the belt isn't turning the power steering pump, then you won't have any power steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T04:00:40.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5354" CreationDate="2013-02-10T21:57:40.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the head would most certainly find any damage if it exists. Especially since it still runs, the bottom end is likely intact. You're not likely to find anything by dropping the pan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a good look at the valves and piston tops would be where I would start. This would involve removing the head to be absolutely sure, but one thing you might try is taking off the intake and exhaust manifolds, and if possible, taking a look in the head at the valves. You might be able to find the problem without removing the head. And if you do have to remove the head, you'd be halfway there. Your saying that it gets much louder points to something wrong with the valves, or between them and the muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on if you can get a mirror/camera in there and/or if the pathways to the valves are too hard to look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T21:57:40.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2013-02-10T22:24:30.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like just worn out electrical components. My experience with this is the digital dashes in the 80s Nissan 300ZXs. The flux/residue left on the circuit boards corrodes over time and the corrosion eventually shorts some connections, causing a multitude of symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T22:24:30.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2013-02-10T22:35:08.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old lore goes that if you change it all out, the shock of all the new fluid and detergents will knock crud loose and cause the transmission to fail. I've heard it many times but never actually seen any evidence that it's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that no Haynes or factory service manual mentions anything about it, I shelve it up as false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T22:35:08.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2013-02-10T22:55:23.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahh, cold starts. In the DIY ECU world, this is always the most difficult part of tuning a vehicle. One reason is that the engine is horribly inefficient at low temperatures, and requires a very narrowly defined amount of fuel. Too much and it eventually bogs down and dies. Too little and it dies as well. Then if the engine's warmed up at all during this, you have to wait 6 hours for it to cool down completely. It's interesting to note that cars require 2, 2.5, 3 times as much fuel to idle when cold than when warmed up. And that idling is one of the hardest things for an engine to do, tuning wise. It requires just enough fuel to stay at a specific RPM, but not too much that you increase RPM, waste gas, or stall out. But I digress...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it requires the gas pedal, this sort of gives me the impression that it is getting too much fuel. A faulty air-flow meter, perhaps. Or a leak in the intake between the AFM and the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that's not set in stone. It could be that it's too lean and when you press the gas, you trigger acceleration enrichment, which dumps fuel, which allows it to run a bit until it needs another fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like you mention, getting on a flat surface (with wheel chocks of somesort), and not using the brake, to avoid changing engine vacuum abruptly when it's in this delicate state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it has a simple adjustable IAC, like you seem to imply, attempt to adjust it to allow more air to flow. A higher RPM idle might be the result, but if it stays running it's progress in my book.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a cold idle valve, and test it if it exists. IACs are typically for upping the idle when under load (power steering demands, A/C, etc.), where cold idle valves are for, well, idling when cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question: Is it a 5.0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T22:55:23.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5397" CreationDate="2013-02-11T18:48:06.523" Score="3" ViewCount="3289" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm round my old dears and park on her drive. She needs to move my car (a 2002 Renault Clio V6 3.0) off the drive to get her car out. She gets in, reverses it and stalls it. Starts up again and she parks it on the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She does her shopping, comes back and needs to move the cars over. So again, she gets in, starts the car up and instantly stalls it. She's not sure whether the car stalled by itself or she had the clutch up too high (she's only small you see).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, now it won't start at all. It just turns over and over (turns over fast, not sloooowly). Sometimes it sounds like it's about to fire and start up but falls over again. It doesn't sound like a dead battery, lights etc are all fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some reading I've read it could be the fuel pump, on turning the key the second time I do hear a noise from the back (presumably the fuel pump) and have checked some fuses and relays and they seem fine. I say &quot;some&quot; as I can't accurately identify any as the manual only has the fuses internally. I've read the yellow relay in the front fuse box under the bonnet is the fuse, we've taken that out and could still hear the fuel pump activate (if that's what it is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really bad with cars unfortunately as you can probably tell. So we've tried turning it over, I can smell fuel but no success. I don't want to keep doing it in case something else screws, we've run tests on OBD II code readers and no faults are found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also aware the car may be flooded, but it's been over a day now and still no luck, I was hoping overnight the problem would &quot;disappear&quot; but unfortunately not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Well, unfortunately, foot to the floor and cracking it hasn't worked so I'm up for other suggestions :) Got a feeling I will be getting towed to Renault and have to pay a very expensive bill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2748" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T14:31:26.330" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T14:48:19.780" Title="2002 Renault Clio V6 won't start - just turns over" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5373" CreationDate="2013-02-11T18:58:54.733" Score="2" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI, 2001.&#xA;This morning it was -13 °C (9 °F) and the engine couldn't start.&#xA;First two times, I could hear the engine running, but the third time it died and my temporary data was restarted (clock, date etc.).&#xA;After I came from work, temperature was -4 °C (25 °F) and it started without any problems.&#xA;I recharged the battery but it took very little time for complete charging.&#xA;The battery is older than 10 years and the car was not used for a few months (up to 6).&#xA;Is it just a battery problem or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2749" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T19:36:58.103" Title="Peugeot 406 won't start in cold weather" Tags="|engine|starting|diesel|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5372" CreationDate="2013-02-11T19:36:58.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery is probably the first thing to check, but given that it's a Diesel with cold start problems I would also get the glow plugs checked or check them yourself if it still has them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T19:36:58.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5371" CreationDate="2013-02-11T20:31:34.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a recent car [e.g: it has electronic fuel injection, not a carb], &lt;em&gt;floor&lt;/em&gt; the pedal and try to crank it with the pedal floored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be WOT. -- On fuel injected cars it's reading fuel/spark from a table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flooring the pedal will force the computer to try flood clear mode, where it will spark but cut the fuel. (Counter-intuitive, I know, but opening the throttle won't add fuel during cranking when an EFI car starts. It will open the throttle and then add fuel immediately after, so be sure to pull your foot off as soon as it's going so it doesn't redline.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is really flooded this should help start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens a lot on my car, especially if I stall it in first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T20:31:34.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T20:47:05.983" Score="2" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Nissan Armada rear hatch has opened unexpectedly (while parked) several times in the past few weeks. Now the rear hatch will not open with either the key fob or via the interior hatch button. Also the exterior handle will not allow it to open either manually or set off the auto open. What could cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2751" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T02:24:34.140" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T08:05:27.257" Title="Rear motorized hatch in 2005 Nissan Armada will not open" Tags="|electrical|nissan|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3139" CreationDate="2013-02-12T19:28:40.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;theory&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sites that I found useful in helping me understand &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; gear teeth are those funky involute curves, without getting bogged down in equations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Michal Zalewski.&#xA;&quot;Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting&quot;.&#xA;Section 6.2. &lt;a href=&quot;http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/#6.2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creating spur gears.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;2012.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RepRap: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/gear_design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gear design&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;practice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear a lot of people take this &quot;.scad&quot; script:&#xA;&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&#xA;They tweak the &quot;number_of_teeth&quot; and other parameters to their liking,&#xA;and then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;to calculate all the involutes and other splines&#xA;and show a solid model of that gear.&#xA;Then they export a &quot;.stl&quot; sold model file&#xA;and use RepSnapper or RepRapPro or &lt;a href=&quot;http://reprap.org/wiki/Skeinforge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skeinforge&lt;/a&gt; or etc. to convert it to Gcode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some example Gcode in Reyes's paper&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iaeng.org/publication/WCE2008/WCE2008_pp985-991.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Algorithm to Describe the Ideal Spur Gear Profile&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few people somehow use a spreadsheet to generate the Gcode --&#xA;Ferreira&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://stuff.mit.edu/people/jbf/thesis/thesis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Using Spreadsheets to Parameterize Spur Gear Design for Laser Cutters&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and Joe Martin&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sherline.com/calculators.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Plain gear tooth calculator&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here used the delphusa&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.delphusa.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Gear-Wheel Designer with GCode Generator&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2755" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T19:28:40.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5381" CreationDate="2013-02-12T21:07:35.543" Score="4" ViewCount="3719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan. A couple of days ago, the right turn signal started flashing rapidly when turned on to indicate a burned out bulb. I checked and found the right tail light was completely out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, before I could get a replacement bulb, the turn signal returned to normal operation, and I found that the light was coming on again. Now it's out again. I replaced the bulb, which didn't fix the problem (and the filament in the old bulb looks perfectly good as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this is likely being caused by a loose/frayed wire somewhere (I also had a previous problem with the power sliding doors tracked down to a wire that apparently frequently gets damaged in normal operation on Caravans). Any suggestions where I should start looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1618" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T03:56:30.860" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T12:46:24.760" Title="Tail light is intermittently out on Dodge Caravan" Tags="|electrical|dodge|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5222" CreationDate="2013-02-13T02:32:06.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The location of the plug depends whether it was installed at the factory, by the dealer, or the third party. One of the most common places for the block heater plug on the third generation Ford Taurus (1996–1999) is the driver’s side opening in the lower part of the bumper (with spring-loaded cap):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8W1Jj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the block heater plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not visible from the front (either as pictured, under the bumper, or cut into the bumper) it could be somewhere in the engine compartment, easily accessible from the top with the bonnet open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, it may be so that it isn’t there at all. It should be fairly easy to track down. One of the most common kinds of block heaters on these Fords is the simple contraption installed in place of one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;core plugs&lt;/a&gt;, so by checking all of them it can be easily seen where and if it is there, and where leads its wire harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T02:32:06.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5379" CreationDate="2013-02-13T12:46:24.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar problem before and it turned out to be the socket for the bulb was bad.  I'd start with inspecting wiring that you can see, but proving wiring &quot;good&quot; is pretty much impossible (and replacing it is likely to be a major chore).  It might just be cheaper/easier to try and replace the socket first and see what happens.  Sorry I can't be more detailed, but I'm unfamiliar with details of Caravan wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T12:46:24.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5395" CreationDate="2013-02-13T19:22:41.290" Score="12" ViewCount="12099" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dead battery is a common and serious problem.  At a minimum it takes time to jump-start the car.  But oftentimes a second car is unavailable, or there's no jumper cables, or a serial killer is chasing you and pounding on your window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why don't vehicles come with some alternate way of starting the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia says that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_%28engine%29#History&quot;&gt;the original hand-cranks worked but were inconvenient and dangerous&lt;/a&gt; for various reasons.  I suspect that with modern engineering these handcranks could become safe, through the use of clutches and today's better-behaved engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_%28engine%29#Spring_starter&quot;&gt;spring starter&lt;/a&gt; for which, Wikipedia points out, &quot;the most common application being backup starting system on seagoing vessels.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with the constant push for reliability and features, why have I never seen a car that doesn't rely 100% on a battery to start?  Imagine the marketing: &quot;Never again be stranded with a dead battery!&quot;  Should be a hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2020-03-21T20:24:38.090" Title="Why no alternate (hand-cranked, spring-loaded) starter for a car?" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-02-13T21:25:47.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine has just such a fancy emergency backup starting device.  It's called a &quot;manual transmission&quot;.  Push starts great with a dead battery.  Only downside would be the serial killer chasing me, and well, that's what they make concealed weapons licenses for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T21:25:47.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2013-02-14T00:44:15.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You’re better with either Lexan or polycarbonate. Polystyrene is too brittle. You need something that will resist UV and day to day weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2761" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T10:02:35.127" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T10:02:35.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-14T01:00:27.987" Score="4" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a old 1993 Mitsubishi Triton MJ which is having a bit of an issue at the moment with acceleration. With the initial acceleration such as moving away from traffic lights the engine will often sputter and struggle and almost stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my basic knowledge and knowing the fuel lines and filter aren't blocked I have come to the conclusion that it is a vacuum leak or issue with the pcv pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to diagnose which it is before replacing parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, it's probably worth going through and replacing all the vacuum hoses anyway on a vehicle of this age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T07:09:45.357" Title="How to diagnose a vacuum hose leak or pcv pump problem" Tags="|mitsubishi|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5388" CreationDate="2013-02-14T01:29:04.893" Score="2" ViewCount="2930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a power inverter to use it primarily to power up a vacuum cleaner in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vacuum is 550 Watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are power inverters 600+ watts, but they are a bit more expensive and looks like they cannot be plugged in to the cigarette socket (only to the battery directly, which is not practical for cleaning at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are other inverters which are, for example, 400 watts continuous / 700 watts peak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would like to know what that 'peak' characteristic is and also can I use the 400/700 watt inverter to power up my 550 watts vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T19:05:01.263" Title="What does 'peak power' mean in car inverter characteristics?" Tags="|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-14T03:47:05.727" Score="0" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mazda 626 is loosing power steering; however, it is NOT leaking under car. What's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a mechanic; I'm puzzled why I'm loosing power steering fluid; however, it is not visibly leaking!  I put power steering fluid in today; yet, it was hard to turn a few hours later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2764" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T14:37:10.813" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T14:37:10.813" Title="My Mazda 626 is loosing power steering; however, it is NOT leaking under car... What's wrong?" Tags="|mazda|power-steering|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2013-02-14T07:09:34.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure &quot;peak&quot; means you can pull that much momentarily, but if there's a sustained load that high, it will trip the circuit breaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vacuum is rated 550 watts, that's probably the sustained draw, and the power needed to start the motor is probably A LOT higher. I would just go with a sufficiently powerful inverter model that clips to the battery terminals directly; they're easy to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make it more convenient, you could mount it in the engine compartment and run a 120v extension cord and relay switch to turn it on/off into the dash somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="2762" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T19:05:01.263" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T19:05:01.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8490" CreationDate="2013-02-14T11:13:44.113" Score="3" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my BMW unused for 6 weeks. Then I started the engine for 10 seconds and turned it off. A few days later I started the engine and drove it 10 metres and turned it off. Then I attempted to start it again and it failed. Now it won't start. All the electrics seem to work apart from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me an hour to find the battery. It took me another hour to remove the stupidly designed plastic cover on top of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a portable charger. The instructions are awful but I think it's telling me that the battery has too little charge to be charged without mains power. There is no mains power point within the area that I can push the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the battery is the original. The car worked perfectly before this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I charge my battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2765" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:57:07.707" Title="Charging battery on BMW 320ci 2003" Tags="|battery|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-02-14T12:04:51.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, sorry for my bad English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is because a modern battery is more &lt;em&gt;reliable&lt;/em&gt;, from the car manufacturer's point-of-view, so they remove the unneeded crank system alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead batteries may be very common -- yes, it got me multiple times on my old car -- but if you are maintaining your car regularly as the manufacturer suggests, you might (be forced to) replace the new one before it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alternative-energy-news.info/technology/battery-power/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battery technology&lt;/a&gt; seems to be advancing so much these days, some of them might be used in cars in the near future if it's really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T14:36:13.543" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T14:36:13.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2013-02-14T12:43:57.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might help if you give a little detail about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;your&lt;/a&gt; car generation or made year, since there might be variation on power steering system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car manual or auto transmission? Is it share power steering fluid with clutch fluid, leak might occurred at clutch cylinder where you might did'n look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; read the problem description again and found that you have fluid lost but don't found any leak, sorry. Keep the previous answer just in cast that might help others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume your system is pure hydraulic-based. Power loss in hydraulic system might occurred without any leak due to worn/leak internal system. Or it can be from not enough power to drive the pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you check the power pump belt?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you look for any unusual thing that might block the steering rod or wheel from moving?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any unusual resistance to the engine (belt make noise) when you try to turn?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The power steering is not assisted at all (like your didn't run the engine) or it lost some power?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. sorry for my bad English&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T12:54:08.903" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T12:54:08.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5406" CreationDate="2013-02-14T14:23:20.543" Score="1" ViewCount="14290" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I change the rear lights on Peugeot 307 CC? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CC (Coupe) version doesn't seem to have a visible place to open the back light cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T10:33:32.097" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T17:16:09.203" Title="How do I change the rear lights on Peugeot 307 CC?" Tags="|peugeot|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5389" CreationDate="2013-02-14T14:32:43.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have access to another vehicle you could get a jump-start off? Perhaps a friend or neighbour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you're probably looking at removing the battery and carrying it to the nearest power supply (beware - they are heavy!), but I suspect that won't be easy on a modern BMW, especially if it took that long just to get at it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be quite honest, if the charge has dropped sufficiently that a portable charger can't do anything for it, you will probably find that the battery has failed - particularly if it is the original, 10 year old, battery - they don't like being allowed to run right down, especially when they get old. You should be able to get enough charge in it to start and run the car, but there is a good chance it will no longer hold much charge, so you'll probably find it goes flat more frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T14:32:43.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-02-14T16:49:30.563" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I’ve read, alternative starting systems nowadays used mostly in commercial, industrial and emergency applications, where it is mission-critical to get it started, such as back-up power generator in the hospital, fire pump on an oil rig, or a life boat. Redundancy is required in some of these situations; in others there is no other option even. There are commercial lorries, mining, quarry and construction vehicles, or generators in remote areas where the only system to start an engine would be the air (pneumatic) or hydraulic start. It is a lot easier to find compressed air than to find reliable electricity to charge a battery in some underdeveloped countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of those are, of course, are powered by Diesel engines, and do not even need electricity to operate, so some of the vehicles or machines would not even have a battery at all. And, by the way, there are, as I’ve read, hand crank systems on some of those: it is possible to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_release&quot;&gt;compression-release mechanism&lt;/a&gt; to make it easy to spin the engine by hand to get the flywheel going, then dis-engage CR, and kinetic energy stored in the flywheel should be enough to get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side of the spectrum would be open-wheel race cars (Formulas, Indy, possibly others, such as Le Mans or GT) that do not even have on-board starting system and need to have an external air- or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/starter_motor.html&quot;&gt;electric start device&lt;/a&gt; to get going. Obviously, this is done to save weight — this way they do not need relatively heavy starter motor, and they can get away with much smaller battery which is used more as a current stabilizer rather than storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for regular automobiles, there are several factors that prevent manufacturers from using redundant starting systems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First of all, regular electric start is pretty reliable. All of us experience dead battery now and again, but mostly due to our own negligence. And in between, there are hundreds, if not thousands, starts the system handles without mechanical failure of the starter motor or natural degradation of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, although it is not high-performance racing application, the considerations of weight and cost still play an important role.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars use internal space rather efficiently, and there simply not many options to put another component, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; have an easy access to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are after-market systems allowing for that extra reliability for bigger utility vehicles like pick-ups for farmers or loggers and the like, but then again, that qualifies it as industrial application, because no one but Americans use those for getting to the office or snatching some milk in a neighbourhood shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T16:49:30.563" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-14T17:11:35.917" Score="3" ViewCount="1010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete newbie when it comes to jeeps (and cars in general). However, I am very good at fixing things... once I know what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a summer of riding with the top down I was used to the loud noise of the air going by, but once I put the top up at the beginning of winter I instantly noticed a rubbing noise coming from my drive train. I can only hear it when I am driving with the clutch engaged and the faster I am going the louder it is (so I know it's behind the transmission). I didn't think much of it because I only had the jeep for a month or so with the top up before I took it down for the summer. Now I have been driving it with the top up for a couple months and the rubbing noise has gotten louder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really like taking my car to the dealership because in the past they have completely made up problems that didn't exist - so I would love to figure this out at home. All help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some info about my jeep --&#xA;It's an 04 Wrangler X. I bought it used spring of 2012 with 22k miles on it.&#xA;Everything related to the drivetrain is factory installed.&#xA;I make sure to check the fluids regularly and they don't seem to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="3362" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T18:40:27.837" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:40:27.837" Title="Rubbing noise when driving with clutch engaged?" Tags="|clutch|jeep|drivetrain|wrangler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5371" CreationDate="2013-02-14T23:23:38.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well we solved it. We think it was due to flooding, but we needed to clean the spark plugs. They were pretty dirty so my brother took them out, cleaned them up and put them back. He then hooked up my car battery to his and started the car, after a bit of a grumble she started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A load of muck came out of the exhaust but since she's been absolutely fine and starts first time. Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2748" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T23:23:38.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-02-15T04:35:29.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to avoid dead battery situations, the best solution is probably a second, isolated battery. Charge both batteries off the alternator, but disconnect the starting battery (via a relay) except when the alternator is running or the key is being turned. It's really stupid that cars are designed such that using non-essential accessories can run down the power needed to start the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T04:35:29.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T05:12:39.173" Score="2" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am repainting a door using spray cans.  I am planing on giong through about 6 can... 1 primer, 2 paint, and 3 clear coat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 3m respirator that I plan on wearing but which filters should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a particulate filter good enough?  Or do I need an &quot;organic vapor&quot; filter, etc?  I don't mind how much the filter cost but I want to make sure that I am filtering out all I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T01:04:10.247" Title="which 3m filter for painting?" Tags="|paint|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5396" CreationDate="2013-02-15T09:40:36.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you need to find out where on your drive train. Get your Jeep up off the ground so you can drive the wheels, and have a listen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Differential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Universal joints on axles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire rubbing on bodywork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pad rubbing against disc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T09:40:36.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-17T16:14:50.943" Score="3" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all the cost, trouble, loss-of-use, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/feb/13/french-driver-200kmh-car-chase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inability to shut the vehicle off if electronics fail&lt;/a&gt; associated with &quot;smart&quot; keys, if I ever get a car that needs one I think I'd want to adapt it to start and stop with an ordinary mechanical key or other mechanism. Is there any clean, established way to do this? The most obvious solution that comes to mind is permanently mounting the original smart key inside the dash and adding an after-market ignition key unit, but are there better ways to disable the system or issues with leaving the smart key in the vehicle full-time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T16:14:50.943" Title="Is there a general procedure for retrofitting &quot;smart key&quot; cars with real keys?" Tags="|ignition|key|smartkey|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-14T00:06:03.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2013-02-17T17:28:53.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factory repair manual is a bit sketchy about it, but here what it says (translated from Russian version):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the roof in the intermediate position (I suppose, somewhere in the middle between fully open and fully closed).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut out (?) and remove the carpet (1 on the figure). That cutting out bit puzzles me. Maybe, just pull out from under the trim?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partially pull out inner lining (2).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release the fasteners for the rear light, pull it out, disconnect the harness, then remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muzKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture and instructions are rather confusing for someone who had not seen the car in person, but hope this helps. If it does, please, comment here and clarify, so I can edit the post for the next person with the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T17:28:53.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5408" CreationDate="2013-02-17T23:44:17.243" Score="5" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a motorcycle that has chromed exhaust pipes. I am worried that there will eventually be discolouration where the pipes join the engine, due to the heat. Is there a way to treat the pipes so that this does not occur? I want my exhaust to maintain a uniform chrome shine the entire length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T22:45:16.210" Title="Motorcycles: Way to maintain shiny chrome on exhaust outlets?" Tags="|maintenance|motorcycle|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5407" CreationDate="2013-02-18T02:47:08.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to prevent exhaust pipes from bluing is to design them to prevent blueing in the first place, build them with double walls to keep the outsides from getting too hot. One thing you can do is remove the tinting after the fact: there are products out there, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blue-job.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue-Job&lt;/a&gt; chrome polishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T22:45:16.210" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T22:45:16.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-02-18T04:09:52.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reality is that it wouldn't actually be a good selling point. There's no use adding cost and weight to a normal every-day car when it's easy to keep your battery well-maintained and carry a $10 starter cable just incase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T04:09:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5375" CreationDate="2013-02-18T04:11:46.713" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple fact is that the rear hatch is either physically damaged or there is a problem with the electrical system. If you're not already familiar with how to repair it, you just need to take it to the dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T04:11:46.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5334" CreationDate="2013-02-18T05:28:53.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please, just buy a new tire. Don't ever ride your motorcycle on a tire that is damaged in any way. Don't try to save a few bucks when you're on a motorcycle and you only have two tires between you and the ground, it could end up costing you your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T06:27:16.913" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T06:27:16.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5413" CreationDate="2013-02-18T14:19:54.700" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I clean the engine area to remove years of built up grease and dirt? What are the benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T14:55:47.287" Title="Should I clean the engine area" Tags="|engine|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2013-02-18T16:38:04.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the general desire for cleanliness, there are couple things that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With clean engine it is easier to see if anything is out of order, such as fluid leak. This, potentially, can have dire consequences, if not caught in time as, according to U.S. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/pdf/osvehicle.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NFPA report&lt;/a&gt;, 2/3 of vehicle fires are caused by mechanical or electrical failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1994-1998, roughly two-thirds (66%) of the highway vehicle fires were caused by some&#xA;  form of mechanical or electrical failure, such as part failures, short circuits or backfires. Part failures, leaks or breaks caused one-fifth (19%) of the passenger road vehicle fires. Short circuits or ground faults caused 18% of the fires in these vehicles, 10% were caused by backfires and 7% resulted from other electrical failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while distribution of causes may differ by country (in UK, for instance, vast majority of vehicle fires are caused by arson, according to annual governmental &lt;em&gt;Fire Statistics&lt;/em&gt; reports, compared to less than a fifth in the U.S.), significant portion of accidental fires are still caused by mechanical failures, and fluid leaks onto hot exhaust, or combined with electrical shorts and other similar causes, are a serious concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above report, annual averages had shown that even general lack of maintenance was attributing cause to slightly more fires than as result of damage in collisions or overturns.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dirt, grime, oil, road salt, and other contaminants lead to premature deterioration of such engine components, as hoses, electrical wiring, sensitive electronics (ECU, sensors, etc.) and so forth. Some of this, again, can lead to issues presented in the first item of this list.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T16:38:04.713" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5416" CreationDate="2013-02-18T19:47:31.327" Score="5" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;The low tire pressure warning light has recently come (and stayed) on in my 2009 Jeep Wrangler. The pressure in all 5 tires (spare also) is at the proper level. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be and how to remedy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2778" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-19T02:24:54.460" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T01:07:55.887" Title="Tire pressure warning when pressure is ok" Tags="|tires|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-18T19:57:31.720" Score="2" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 peugeot 307 CC. My front passenger side window motor works now and then, but grinds, and only goes up in 1&quot; stages. Also, the roof only opens part way, then stops. I have had an auto electrician say he “thinks” it’s the actual motor, though I’d not been aware of the roof problem at the time. Now that I’ve noticed the roof, the Peugeot agents say it sounds like it’s the motor as they are connected, but at £90.00 just to look, haven’t seen it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part costs £200, and 3.5 x £80.00 an hour to fit it, plus the £90.00 to check the motor, so, at over £500.00, it’s way too much for me to afford. I’ve been looking on eBay etc. and there are motors available, but not for the power fold mirror type like mine is. Question is, if I get one that’s not wired for the power fold mirrors, would the motor and roof still work? I can cope without one folding mirror if it would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2779" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-19T02:25:05.117" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T06:07:58.470" Title="Peugeot 307 CC with power folding mirrors - Replacing Passenger side window motor" Tags="|electrical|power-windows|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2013-02-18T20:17:08.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause: One of the sensors in a tire is faulty - and often it is the spare, as it doesn't get looked at very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it along to your dealer and get them to check the sensors are all working and powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T20:17:08.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5399" CreationDate="2013-02-19T01:04:10.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of filter you need will depend on the type of paint you will be using. Consult the paint manufacturers web site. Look at the MSDS (material safety data sheet). A section of the form contains what is required for PPE (personal protective equipment). You then need to consult the 3M website to match a filter for the paint and the mask that you will be using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T01:04:10.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6086" CreationDate="2013-02-19T10:44:06.440" Score="8" ViewCount="32795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Australia-built Ford Falcon which has a 4.0L multi-point fuel injected straight 6 and is manual. I rebuilt the head in the car myself last year (blown head gasket) and it has been running fine since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s always had a funny slight flat spot under acceleration. Around 2,500 RPM it struggles to move past until I accelerate harder, then it kind of jumps up to where it should be. Semi-violently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This more recent problem is that it will stall while driving. I can be doing any speed and be at any point into the journey (10 minutes or an hour, it doesn’t matter) and it will just die. Typically the RPM will just drop to 0, the battery light comes on, and I will just be coasting along along in gear. Knowing that it’s turning over, I usually plant my foot, and it all of a sudden will roar back to life after no specific period of time. This morning it was a good couple of seconds (I was doing about 80 km/h, and it kicked back in when I had slowed to about 60 km/h). Other times it dies and then comes back in almost straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also can die while stationary at traffic lights etc, it will usually start back up but again today it just turned over and over and over and didn't start for about 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking it could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coil / Dizzy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of air / exhaust sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is because it’s so intermittent and hard to replicate, I don't know how to diagnose it better myself and don’t know where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T16:12:12.670" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T04:11:20.027" Title="Car randomly stalls (driving or stationary), then generally kicks back in or starts back up straight away" Tags="|engine|ford|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5385" CreationDate="2013-02-19T10:54:28.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For such a cheap part, if you suspect the vacuum hoses then just replace it to remove it from the list of possible causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my knowledge the MJ tritons were still carburettor. If this is the case then perhaps it might be worth trying to diagnose a possible carburettor issue. If it performs this behaviour at any particular throttle position then it might be easier to diagnose as a carb issue. i.e. if it does it constantly when getting towards WOT then you might find it's a blocked, dirty or clogged main jet, if it's always in the middle range then it could be jet needle etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T10:54:28.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2013-02-19T19:38:04.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a laundry list of things that can cause these problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grounding issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery Connections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty wiring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest it can be a nightmare trying to sort these things out, and you are better off taking it to a automotive electriction who can plug in diagnostic tools, and take it out for a test drive to replicate the problem. (A couple hundred $$, and a couple hours for a pro, or a couple hundred $$ and many many hours to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T19:38:04.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2013-02-19T19:56:33.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a clean engine bay is really nice when you need to work on the engine, and it helps identifying leaks. There are a few things to be careful about when cleaning though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pressurized water can get into electrical connections and cause shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water causes corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning old degraded plastic connectors and shields can cause them to fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you clean it, make sure you disconnect the battery, let the engine cool, and then clean everything. Afterwards use compressed air to dry out all the electrical connections and blow the pooled water out of all the crevices (especially fuse boxes), then let it dry for a few hours (best to do on a warm day). Connect the battery and drive it for a good hour to get it hot and finish drying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T14:51:44.900" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T14:51:44.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-19T19:58:55.227" Score="4" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 CRV with 59,500 miles and absolutely no problems went in for the 60,000 service.  I was called and told that my power steering fluid smelled burned and looked dark.  I was told that I needed a flush and new fluid.  I have a knowledgible friend who tells me that this is bogus.  He said that if it were indeed burnt smelling, then something else was the cause (under warranty hopefully).  He also said that my CRV should probably never need new power steering fluid.   They also dinged me for a flush and new fluid for my brakes as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2782" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T15:26:28.177" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T16:12:19.893" Title="Honda dealership questionable maintenance" Tags="|honda|maintenance|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5423" CreationDate="2013-02-19T21:05:27.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering fluid breaks down over time and needs to be replaced every so often, similar to your brake fluid or most other fluids in your car for that matter. I think that you’re being a little too incredulous of the dealership, and maybe your friend isn’t so knowledgeable, or there was just a misunderstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is: yes, power steering fluid and brake fluid (as Timo mentioned) should be changed regularly to prevent wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T16:12:19.893" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T16:12:19.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-20T12:56:49.567" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a point that I have to decide between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vauxhall Service Center&lt;/strong&gt; - that I have never used before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Local mechanic&lt;/strong&gt; - which I have done MOT and service checks before and sounds reasonably professional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local mechanic has diagnosed that the head gasket is gone (it's very obvious that it has) and has quoted me £1100 for that. (including changing timing chain and all parts inc VAT)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vauxhall Service Center has quoted the same job £1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other local mechanics more or less come to the same price range, but I have trust problem with them as this is a critical task and if not done properly can cause more costs in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you recommend? What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is Vauxhall Astra 1.4 Petrol and is 7 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1378" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T15:23:27.897" Title="Vauxhall Repair Center vs Local Mechanic" Tags="|engine|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2013-02-20T12:59:45.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to answer my own question but did eventually figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the more complete steps to swap the belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prerequisite: locate a belt &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1eepq-looking-ther-serpentine-belt-routing-diagram.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;diagram&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt; or draw your own before starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the plastic engine cover using 10mm ratchet - this will allow easier access to the tensioner / belt on the left side of the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the bolt head that is welded to the tensioner (circled in picture below &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvsF9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using 19mm socket and ratchet with long handle (or using pipe as cheater bar for more leverage) turn the &quot;bolt&quot; on the tensioner towards the front of the car (clockwise).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slip the belt off of one of the pulleys and release the tension on the bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the old belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now the tricky part - get the new belt on as per diagram. I started with the deepest pulley and worked my way up until I had the belt on all pulleys except the front top one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do step 3 again - while the tensioner is released slip the belt onto the last pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have the belt on as per diagram and that the belt is centered on each pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the tensioner to take up the slack in the belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the engine cover back on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Success!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Hopefully this will help out someone else in the future :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvsF9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Correct Bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2700" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T12:59:45.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5428" CreationDate="2013-02-20T15:23:27.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with whichever you trust more. Find out whether other people are happy with the work the local mechanic has done - is he registered with one of the review firms (&quot;CheckATrade&quot; or similar)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that the Dealer would be more familiar with the car, but the local mechanic would take more care - hence why he's quoting more, as it'll take him longer as he's less familiar with the car, and he'll probably have to pay more for the parts. £1000-1100 sounds like a lot to me for a HG change, but then cars have got a lot more complicated since the last time I had one done - I was quoted £300, and decided to learn how to do it myself (£50ish in parts)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut instinct would be to lean more towards the local independant though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T15:23:27.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5448" CreationDate="2013-02-20T20:56:58.303" Score="2" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to clean the engine area at home. I'd like to avoid damaging the electrical system or other components present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T09:32:25.810" Title="How should I clean the engine area" Tags="|engine|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5435" CreationDate="2013-02-20T22:42:48.117" Score="3" ViewCount="2698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suburban 1998. Starts pretty good at first, but after a 30 minute drive it is sounds like trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good start usually has a quick series of short chugs, each getting stronger until less than a second goes by the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A troubling start can sound like a couple longer/slower chugs, both sounding about the same, and then the third chug starts it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't drive this vehicle often. I never do hear the solenoid click, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. I don't think there is any grinding sound -- certainly no high pitch screeching sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet watched for dimming/brightening of the lights during a bad start because I only recently realized the pattern. (good start when cold, bad when warm) The battery is less than a year old, but I will probably have it load tested anyway this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the engine has been off for awhile, I can start the vehicle 6 times in a row and sounds like a good start each time, of course it gradually gets weaker (I assume that is due to battery drain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you think it would work better on a cold start, and not a warm start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T23:36:53.177" Title="Slow chugs from starter with warm engine but not cool engine?" Tags="|noise|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5434" CreationDate="2013-02-20T23:36:53.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a classic case of &quot;heat soak&quot;. In most Chevy V-8's the exhaust pipe runs very close to the starter. The starter absorbs the heat, the heat increases the electrical resistance along with expanding the metal parts. The combination of the two can result in sluggish starts when the engine is hot. The symptons get worse as the starter ages. The factory solution was a heat shield that usually gets tossed or rusts away with the first starter change. Heats shields are available in the aftermarket from speed shops or performance outlets. You may also consider wrapping the pipe with an insulating wrap typically used on exhaust headers. A new starter may temporarily fix the problem depending on how hot the starter gets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T23:36:53.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2013-02-20T23:45:06.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first got my 2007 Prius in 2009 it was getting 37 MPG. After a month it dropped to 34 MPG and stayed at that level for four years. During that time I asked the dealership why would the mileage be so low. They asked where I was getting my gas. I told them I was buying it from supermarket stations. They said that’s why. They said to get gas elsewhere like Texaco, or Shell, or other brand names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vehicle had around 45,000 on it (today it has 60,100). So I experimented and there was no increase. I asked later on and they said the same thing, adding it could be tire wear and other things. Then they asked if I reset the MPG gauge. So the next time I filled up, I found out it didn’t reset, so I manually reset it. I still got the same miserable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then one summer day in 2012 I put $15 worth of Chevron gas in, and when I got to my destination, I was getting 44 MPG. So I started using Chevron gas and the mileage (depending on time of year) would get between 40-46 MPG. Oddly enough, about three months ago, I briefly talked to a woman who also had a 2007 Prius and she was getting 50 MPG using supermarket gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been hesitant to use Premium gas because the dealership said the car was designed to run on the low grade gas, and a high grade gas could harm the engine. So maybe I will go to the high grade gas and see how much of an improvement it will make, if any, and calculate how cost effective it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2789" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T02:42:23.670" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T02:42:23.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2013-02-21T01:07:55.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have encountered a similar problem in my Hyundai Sonata 2009 Limited where the Bluetooth signal from my iPad interferes with the TPMS operation.  In this case, the TPMS fault light on the dashboard cluster illuminates as opposed to the low tire pressure warning light adjacent to it .... but it's easy to mistakenly confuse the two.  Happened the first time on a trip and did cause a bit of concern until I researched it on the Internet and realized that others had encountered the same problem.  This may or may not be the cause of your anomaly but I thought it was worth a mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2790" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T01:07:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2013-02-21T23:36:57.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ethenol is most likely the culprit, it has a much lower BTU then gasoline, so the less of it you have, the better your milage. Octane rating is a measure of a fuels ability to resist self-ignition. And to clarify that that, when fuel is injected into the cylinder, valve closes and the piston moves up, the enviroment becomes presurized and the presurization lowers the ignition point. When the ambiant tempurature is high enough, that ignition point can occur on the upstroke prior to the piston completing its cycle(knock). When THAT occurs, it can be extremely damaging, very quickly(broken connecting rod if your lucky). Hence the knock sensors which automatically adjust your timing to prevent preignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 90 octane rating doesnt actually have anything to do with the ammount of octane in the fuel, it means that the fuel has the same self-ignition point as a 90% isooctane 10% heptane mixture. Which is why you can have 100+ octane ratings, because the fuel has a higher combustion point then pure isooctane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher octane fuels are required in higher compression engines, in order to resist pre-ignation caused by the higher presures. Super chargers and turbo chargers raise the compression by packing air in at a higher presure, usually requiring higher octane fuels(unless the engine is designed otherwise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it only refers to the self-ignition point, running a higher octane rating then is required is extremely unlikely to damage anything(unless your running race fuel), since the combustion still occurs via spark at the point it is supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Most fuel filling stations have two storage tanks (even those offering 3 or 4 octane levels): those motorists who purchase intermediate grade fuels are given a mixture of higher and lower octane fuels. &quot;Premium&quot; grade is fuel of higher octane, and the minimum grade sold is fuel of lower octane. Purchasing 91 octane fuel (where offered) simply means that more fuel of higher octane is blended with commensurately less fuel of lower octane, than when purchasing a lower grade. The detergents and other additives in the fuel are often, but not always, identical.&quot; Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(looks to me like the Ethanol is in the lower octane fuel, and getting premium means you have much less ethanol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, up untill it was banned, lead was used to raise the octane rating on fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I'm going to do some experimenting... I drive about 100 mi a day, I'll test the different mixtures this week for fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T23:36:57.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5443" CreationDate="2013-02-22T04:10:48.710" Score="4" ViewCount="2756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a Mazda 323 which has approximately 90k km on the clock. While driving in the rain some water will come in above the brake pedal, approximately 5 or 6 drops during an average local journey (~10 km). A mechanic has said that the firewall has deteriorated and will cost a lot of money (~AU$800) to weld up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems unlikely to me, however I am open to correction. Does a car’s firewall deteriorate enough over time to allow water to leak in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T18:20:09.020" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T20:15:26.957" Title="Will the firewall in my car deteriorate such that it will need to be repaired periodically?" Tags="|mazda|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-22T04:56:42.743" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that, when my ’96 Caprice is backing up on smooth concrete, it kind of grinds and jumped just barely. Is it my gears in rear end? Any other issues could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2793" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T15:51:56.500" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T15:51:56.500" Title="1996 Caprice Classic rear end rub a little and jumps barely while backing up" Tags="|chevrolet|rear-differential|b-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5440" CreationDate="2013-02-22T10:06:02.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firewall is typically made up of metal with a layer of fire retardant material. There are holes through the firewall for necessary pipes, wires etc from the engine bay to the passenger compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With old cars (much older than a Mazda 323) I have seen heavily rusted firewalls, but not seen anything like that recently. It certainly shouldn't be a periodic repair, in fact as @BobCross commented - first check that all of the grommets that seal the holes that go through the firewall are in place and in good condition, as it could easily be one of these that is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if a weld between the firewall and the frame has gone it is a very good idea to get it fixed, however it is not the easiest thing to get at, so it probably would require lifting out the engine, so it can be time consuming = expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to shop around - get a couple of opinions from garages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T16:31:31.300" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T16:31:31.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2013-02-22T19:41:56.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and had the similar problem with the battery not charging. I checked control unit data and found that the computer thought the battery was fully charged: said the car was running at 15 volts while the actual battery voltage was only 10 volts. Basically, ECU was telling alternator not to charge. Turns out the driver in the control unit was shorted out so the battery would not charge. I installed new ECU and now it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2794" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T14:51:36.260" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T14:51:36.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5440" CreationDate="2013-02-22T20:15:26.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first concern would be getting the firewall inspected by a bodyshop. If it is that rusted the vehicle may not be safe to drive. In the event of a serious accident the firewall deflects the engine under the passenger compartment. In my experience most leaks are due to either a leaking windshield or as @Rory Alsop has stated a bad grommet where a cable or linkage passes thru the firewall. You can try to isolate the source by spraying the glass area with a hose while someone looks under the dash. The mechanic may have been refering to the channel that the glass sits on. If this is the case a repair may not be that extensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T20:15:26.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2013-02-22T21:51:32.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely you have a bad 4&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; gear pressure switch. It seems to be a common problem. I had worked at a Honda dealer for 20 years, and replaced a lot of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2794" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T14:51:16.383" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T14:51:16.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5442" CreationDate="2013-02-22T22:58:29.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be any part of the driveline. A dry U joint may be binding. Have you noticed a squeek at very low speeds or when shifting from forward to reverse? Most differentials are pretty robust. If the differential came with posi-traction a fluid change may ease some of the symptoms. I believe these differentials didnot come with a drain you have to remove the cover to drain it. This will allow you to do a visual inspection. Rebuilding a differential requires some expensive measurement tools and a bit of patience. If the gearset is worn out, a junkyard unit makes the most sense from the cost and time perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T22:58:29.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5432" CreationDate="2013-02-23T20:53:15.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a relatively older car and you want to take care not to get water where you don't want it, just get yourself a roll of those blue automotive grade paper towels and a bottle of simple green ( or a similarly gentle cleaner ) and take an afternoon to wipe down your engine bay. That way it will be easy to avoid damaging any wires. Sure, it doesn't sound as fast as just hosing things down, but your engine will thank you for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T20:53:15.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2013-02-24T03:15:54.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my 1998 Honda Accord (6&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; gen.). My check engine light kept coming on so I took it to a local AutoZone store to check the error code which turned out to be p1399. And the sales associate told me what the code meant and that I needed to replace my transmission shift solenoid. I ordered the part ($350 and some change). As soon as it comes, I’m going to have Honda dealership put it on for me, and pray that it stops the problem. Hopefully, this was of some help to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T16:04:48.547" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T16:04:48.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-24T20:42:32.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of info about Prius battery upgrades hidden in web forums, but I would like to bring some of that to SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the easiest ways to hook up aftermarket batteries to your Prius?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T18:47:19.373" Title="Increase your Prius battery capacity?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5432" CreationDate="2013-02-25T07:54:14.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steam cleaning is effective for older cars, but does require manual wiping down afterwards, and car taken around the fuse box or other electrical items in the engine bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take extra care with the distributor as high pressure steam could get inside it and condense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T07:54:14.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5460" CreationDate="2013-02-25T09:38:25.463" Score="-3" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know more about the pros and cons of using different size tires in front and back. My bike has a lower curb weight, so every time its back tire skids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T17:16:52.787" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T17:16:52.787" Title="What are the pros and cons of using big tires in front on a bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-03-04T18:27:50.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-25T12:41:41.243" Score="2" ViewCount="1698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a petrol powered Holden Commodore car 1998 model and it worked fine till last week. Suddenly it stopped moving freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press the accelerator up to 30% it makes noise but doesn't move. If I press the accelerator up to 50% it's making as much noise as when the car is accelerated to 50% but slowing moving at a speed of 10kph and I need to forcefully accelerate like this everyday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have to cross a hill which my car is unable to cross. Though I am giving full gas, the car is unable to get over it. However, if I accelerate on a flat road for 500 meters ahead of time it can climb up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car is in auto transmission, it just has a button to change gear position from N/P/D/R.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what's the problem behind this. Can anybody help me out how to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking to a car mechanic in Australia is worse than purchasing another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T20:04:08.737" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T14:32:29.517" Title="Holden Commodore not moving" Tags="|engine|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2013-02-25T14:55:47.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the downsides, when buying an used car, I'd be suspicious of vehicles with overly clean engine compartments (even though some dealers would do it as a matter of procedure to all cars they resale). This is usually an indication there is a serious leak somewhere which will almost surely be expensive to repair. This is more valid when purchasing a car from a private individual instead of going through a dealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you might not want to scrub it shiny just before reselling your car, but as a matter of maintenance, it positively won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T14:55:47.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2013-02-25T16:06:09.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One could install a Lithium battery instead of a NiMH ( nickel-metal Hydride )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tgdaily.com/trendwatch-features/34422-tg-video-aftermarket-lithium-ion-battery-pack-squeezes-150-mpg-from-a-toyo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tgdaily.com/trendwatch-features/34422-tg-video-aftermarket-lithium-ion-battery-pack-squeezes-150-mpg-from-a-toyo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It costs $9500 and takes 4 hours to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T18:47:19.373" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T18:47:19.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5518" CreationDate="2013-02-25T21:13:13.397" Score="3" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to help a friend diagnose/fix a problem with the steering on his 1996 Taurus wagon. When the vehicle is not moving, turning the steering wheel is extremely difficult, even moreso than if the power steering had completely failed. With even a slight bit of forward or reverse motion (around 5mph is plenty), steering works perfectly well. I tried revving up the engine while stopped in case it was a matter of rpms to the power steering, but that didn't help either. We jacked up the front wheels and took off the tires one at a time to check things out, and getting either wheel off the ground made the steering work properly. Upon visual inspection, the only thing that looked like it might be out of order is the ball joint on the tie rod for the driver's side, whose boot seemed a bit less regular in shape than the passenger-side one. But I didn't get a definite impression something was wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the source of the problem could be and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Here are some pics of the ball joints and tie rods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/foP9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Driver&amp;#39;s side&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLVjt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Passenger side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T02:04:44.770" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T02:04:44.770" Title="Steering very difficult on 1996 Taurus" Tags="|ford|power-steering|steering|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2013-02-25T22:34:29.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire size is specified by the manufacturer. They specify the size based on their frame geometry and other characteristics of the bike. If you have a problem with the rear wheel  skidding you have to address the cause of the brake malfunction. It may be as simple as over application of the rear brake and under application of the front brake. You may have a brake that is grabbing due to contamination of the linings or a mechanical issue such as broken  brake mounting hardware. You may also have misadjusted or worn front suspention forks. If the front end is diving excessively during braking the weight on the rear wheel shifts to the front making the rear wheel more likely to lock up and skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T22:34:29.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5462" CreationDate="2013-02-25T23:46:29.740" Score="6" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 13yo motorcycle that has a black plastic instrument panel. Although it is not regularly exposed to the sun the black plastic is fading to a chalky white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knew of a treatment or way to prevent this from occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T04:40:50.407" Title="Motorcycle: Way to stop plastics fading?" Tags="|motorcycle|cosmetic|instrument|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5461" CreationDate="2013-02-26T04:16:49.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meguiars and Turtle Wax have both been making all kinds of plastic cleaners and protectants for a long time, and something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003814PRM&quot;&gt;ultimate black&lt;/a&gt; is probably one of your best bets. Ideally though, you would have been applying some of this stuff to your bike for the last 13 years to prevent fading in the first place. They say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes though, you just have to replace the plastic on motorcycles if you want it to look new. A little bit of sunshine here and there will take its toll on motorcycles. Even just an hour or so a day multiplied by 13 years starts to add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T04:39:20.143" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T04:39:20.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2013-02-26T20:35:17.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove any unneeded weight. If you have 100lbs of junk in the car, it will make a small, but noticeable difference. This will not only improve mileage, but braking, accelerating, handling as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T20:35:17.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5225" CreationDate="2013-02-27T02:53:12.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happened is there was a small amount of water in the casing of the headlight, due to a sealing breaking loose. I drained the water, sealed the crack, and the headlight has been working fine ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T02:53:12.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2013-02-27T03:12:23.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local Honda dealer says that brake fluid should be changed when moisture content is 3% and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T05:18:06.320" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T05:18:06.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5531" CreationDate="2013-02-27T17:32:00.677" Score="7" ViewCount="3944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ( and successfully ) rebuilt the engine of my '09 Honda Rebel; she's running well but doesn't want to change gears when idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm moving she shifts gears without any hanging, grinding, or difficulty. When I'm at a stop, she refuses to change gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did learn that I needed to coat the shift tracks and forks with moly grease before re-assembling the engine, so I'm about to open her back up and do this. Are there any other causes I should look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T09:39:41.307" Title="Why won't my Honda Rebel shift when idling?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5662" CreationDate="2013-02-27T20:23:29.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly new to me 2008 VW GTI (US model, aka &quot;Golf GTI&quot; in other parts of the planet) and am trying to figure out the specs for the brakes. Specifically, I'm trying to determine the exact size of the OE brake rotors and their wear tolerance. Searching the web I've found conflicting information. For example, one site lists the original thickness as 29.5mm and the minimum as 25.5. For aftermarket, I've found ones that are 27mm new, and 25mm minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, many sites list the OE brake rotor thickness as 25mm and I can't find a minimum for those. The rotors are current at 25mm, so I'm trying to determine if they're relatively new, or need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastEditorUserId="2812" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T17:27:22.913" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T21:04:38.173" Title="What are the brake specs on a 2008 VW GTI?" Tags="|brakes|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T23:17:07.373" Score="3" ViewCount="10017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Toyota Echo that is not starting. The eclectrical seems to be fine (lights, console, everything boots up), but when trying to start there's just a constant clicking, no turn over. Doing a jump start doesn't seem to change anything. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2813" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T16:22:25.517" Title="What could cause a 2001 Toyota Echo not to start (constant clicking)?" Tags="|starting|jump-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5471" CreationDate="2013-02-27T23:59:38.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've got a bad starter motor, starter relay, or perhaps a fuse. There's also a small chance that that battery is too far gone to even jump, and if so a new battery might be the fix. If a particular event led up to this, that could help narrow it down. For instance if the battery went dead right before this problem started, that would point to the issue being the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T23:59:38.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-28T04:05:33.937" Score="0" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of OBD2 hub that can output to five  gauges at once. I’m looking at installing a 5-pod gauge system on to a 2008 Holden Commodore (Pontiac G8) that has an OBD2 port. And I would rather rig something up via OBD2 that can run the 5 gauges at once rather than hard wiring them all individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chris Bosman" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T17:38:39.163" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:20:31.537" Title="OBD2 interfacing with external guages" Tags="|instrument|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4742" CreationDate="2013-02-28T19:31:36.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on to what degree of &quot;on&quot; you had it, anywhere from nearly none to possibly some. Leaving it on the last click (or two, or three, depending on how much slack there is) usually doesn't engage the brakes at all. Especially on older cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you left it on fully engaged, then it could wear the brake shoes or pads prematurely, and cause damage to them. It would also probably start smelling as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your car wasn't on fire, you probably wore them out a bit more than usual but nothing to be concerned about. Especially if it didn't even smell like burning brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T15:34:36.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:34:36.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5469" CreationDate="2013-02-28T21:27:24.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that the bike shifted better at a standstill before the rebuild, otherwise you wouldn't be asking...but nonetheless, many motorcycles are difficult to shift at a standstill, it has to do with the engagement of the &quot;dogs&quot; on the gears. When the bike is at a standstill, the output side of the transmission is also at a standstill, so the dogs either line up or they don't. If they don't, shifting is impossible. In this case, you need only to roll the bike a bit or slowly release the clutch while maintaining pressure on the shift lever. This will create some relative motion of the gears and at some point the bike will drop into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While moving, the output side of the transmission is turning, so shifting is easier, the dogs will always drop in at some point due to the relative motion of the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gadgetjq.com/transmission.htm&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; has some good images and animations of the dogs in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T21:27:24.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-28T23:52:40.000" Score="-2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im considering purchasing a brand new Corvette Z06 and I was simply wandering how I could best maintain for the long-haul. For example, what would be the appropriate miles to drive per week to maintain the engine as well as the value over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2816" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T03:28:31.703" Title="How to properly maintain a collector car" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-13T17:00:37.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5476" CreationDate="2013-03-01T00:38:13.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real answer to that as it's a balance of enjoyment vs having it clutter up the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are treating it as a collector's item as opposed to a car, put it in one of the climate controlled car storage bags and maybe pull it out once a year, if that. Usually, 40-50 years from now it's the delivery mileage, all original cars that tend to bring the most money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're after getting as much &quot;life&quot; out of the car as possible, avoid short journeys, don't thrash it while the mechanical parts are still cold, don't take it out in bad weather, thoroughly clean it regularly and use high-quality parts for maintenance. Obviously, don't skimp on maintenance either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ignore the time-based part of the maintenance and base your maintenance on oil sampling etc rather than the manufacturer's schedule or the &quot;Oh $DEITY, I haven't changed the oil this week&quot; recommendations that you get from some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T00:38:13.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5476" CreationDate="2013-03-01T03:28:31.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single best thing you can do is join a car club or active forum and talk with fellow enthusiasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice about how to keep it happy is going to have information specific for your car's make and model. For instance: I have a Porsche 924 and their injection system is known to get upset if you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; drive it regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T03:28:31.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5456" CreationDate="2013-03-01T03:33:47.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd find a specialist on Aussie automatics. Hunt through your friends to find who has had quality gearbox work done on their autos. If any go racing or have performance cars, ask their advice, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commodore bits shouldn't be hard to find, but replacing a whole gearbox will be expensive. Hopefully it will be something easy like an arm inside the torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="520" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T03:33:47.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2013-03-01T05:00:21.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oversized radiator most certainly will overcool the block. I installed a five-core diesel radiator on my 350 small-block engine, and had to go back to the original because motor could not heat past 150°F (65°C). It would climb to 195°F, thermostat would open and immediately drop temperature by 20 degrees. Verified with an IR thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, with so much more surface area being cooled by air and the larger amount of coolant in the radiator, it is so cold by the time it gets to the motor, never giving the engine a chance to stay at a proper operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T18:29:37.043" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T18:29:37.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5482" CreationDate="2013-03-01T06:54:47.747" Score="4" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Honda Accord that started experiencing some electrical issues yesterday. At first, the right turn signal would not turn off. Shortly after, the turn signals stopped working completely but the hazard signals still work. Any idea which of the relays or fuses I should suspect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T11:40:50.510" Title="Hazards work but turn signals do not" Tags="|honda|accord|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5481" CreationDate="2013-03-01T11:53:30.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars have a separate flasher relay for the Hazards - if that's the case then you might have a failure of the primary flasher relay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The signal initially not turning off suggests a possible failure of the switch though - It might be worth disconnecting the switch (there's usually a connection somewhere under the column) and testing it separately? I'm not sure about Hondas, but some cars of that age were known for the lighting stalk failing as they didn't have relayed headlamps, so the full current of the headlamp flowed through the switches - leading to failure as they get old!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T11:53:30.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T15:27:45.287" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '98 Malibu, the safety button (what you have to press to get out of park in conjunction with the break) on the gear shifter sticks. It it sticking so bad that it sometimes takes me minutes of trying to break it free. In summer, it is hard to press, but I usually don't have problems. In winter, it sticks and takes many tries of squeezing as hard as I can to break it free. The problem is the worst in the morning and isn't usually very bad during the day. My guess is that it either needs some lubrication or there is a bit of liquid in there. Any thoughts on how to improve this? It is getting pretty bad and extremely annoying when in a rush to get to work in the morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I park in an unheated shed and I live in MN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T04:02:46.597" Title="How do I make my safety button on the gear shifter unstick?" Tags="|shifting|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5488" CreationDate="2013-03-01T15:45:49.897" Score="5" ViewCount="2613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, go easy on me.  I'm a bit of a vehicle lightweight.  I can do basic maintenance, but in terms of &quot;how bad is this,&quot; I'm usually lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend bought a 2010 VW CC a few days ago.  Two days after buying it, he discovered (through an inspection at a mechanic) that it looked like it might be leaking oil.  Took it back to the dealer because it was still under warranty and it turns out it has a bad seal.  They're working on repairing it, but he's concerned that this is a big issue, as who knows how long it's been like this / if it may have been run low on oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; wasn't run low on oil, as it was previously a fleet vehicle, and I would expect the oil leak would have been fixed if they noticed it was bad enough to notice the oil was low every time it was changed.  I worked somewhere with company vehicles, and we were required to baby them.  Obviously I have no evidence to know it &lt;em&gt;wasn't&lt;/em&gt; run low, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the contract, he originally could return it in the first five days for a full refund if he wants, which they're holding until he gets it back.  He's considering it, but is this bad oil seal something which is that big of a deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2818" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T16:06:18.047" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:51:57.073" Title="How severe is a bad oil seal on a used car?" Tags="|vw|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5487" CreationDate="2013-03-01T15:46:14.377" Score="3" ViewCount="36494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into my car this morning and couldn't move it from park after I started it. I can't change the gear at all. I can move the wheel, though. I've tried to wiggle it but haven't forced it because I don't wanna cause any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2698" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T18:39:16.927" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T13:34:50.890" Title="Can't move Chrysler 300M gear selector out of park" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2013-03-01T18:33:24.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a solenoid that needs to be activated to allow you to shift from park. Generally this solenoid is only energized when you depress the brake pedal (there may be other requirements as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights go on? If not, you've likely got a faulty brake switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake lights work, then it could be the shift lock solenoid itself that has gone bad, or is stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T18:33:24.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2013-03-01T18:37:39.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife had a similar problem with her Outback at one point.  There is a shift lock preventing the level from moving out of park when you press the brake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check to see if you can just unlock the shift lock mechanism.  There's an excellent set of illustrations here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lxforums.com/board/f90/cant-shift-out-park-into-gear-pink-thingy-replacement-234335/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lxforums.com/board/f90/cant-shift-out-park-into-gear-pink-thingy-replacement-234335/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uYGa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Try pushing this button to get out of park.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that site also recommends a replacement part for the problem.  It apparently works wonders for some people.  Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T20:10:34.987" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T20:10:34.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2013-03-01T18:41:17.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I wouldn't be all that concerned unless the oil leak was large. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple check for the state of health of the engine would be to take the car to an independent mechanic and have a compression test done. It won't catch everything that could be wrong with the engine, but if the compression test comes out OK, it can provide you a bit more peace of mind. If it had been run dangerously low on oil for any length of time, you might expect low or uneven compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the vehicle previously being part of a fleet--I think that could go either way. It was very responsible of you to follow the directive to baby your fleet vehicle. Another reasonable behavior when driving a fleet vehicle is to drive it like you stole it, after all, you're not directly responsible for maintenance, and you're going to get a new one in a few years anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T18:41:17.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:19:27.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a plug go out on my 1991 Honda Accord. On my way to work the other night my car was running fine when all of a sudden it sounded like a piston smacking a valve. Obviously, it lost a lot of power. When I took a closer look, I observed a plug wire popped out of the hole, so I put it back in the hole, thinking maybe that’s all that happened. But it blew off again as soon as I started it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closer examination led me to discover that the plug actually busted inside itself (which was new to me). The smacking noise was the inside of the spark plug being pounded against the outside of the plug from the combustion of the engine. So the whole inside of the plug was moving up and down while the outside of the plug was stationary. I put a new plug in, and I’m back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T21:32:04.750" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:32:04.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:22:06.320" Score="8" ViewCount="23569" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father has 1995 Kawasaki VN 800 Vulcan with low kilometrage (18 000, 11 000 miles). We had installed new Vance &amp;amp; Hines pipes on it (in hindsight, way, way too loud, but that’s beside the point, and we’ll have to live with it). When I put it together, it was about 0 °C outside, maybe a bit lower, but it started right up, without a choke, and responded nicely without need for warm up. Next day, I tightened things up, and went on the short ride (20‒25 min): again, it worked fine, in similar temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day after, however, it started to run rougher. I had to warm it up a bit before going during day time. And at night I had to wait couple minutes before I was even able to drive away. It idles mostly okay, but misfires every so often, barely identifiable. However, when the accelerator is applied it instantly bogs down, even if a little bit, and misfires a lot. Due to incomplete combustion, the fuel would even ignite in the exhaust system, as visible by blue flames at night inside the pipe. It is possible to drive after warm up, but it requires unhealthy application of accelerator to beat the misfire and get it to go. After that, at steady pace on the road, it works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the list of things I am suspecting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike was not winterized, as we did not expect not to use it for that long (procrastinated for months to spend four hours it took me to get it ready), so the fuel breakdown and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy&quot;&gt;hygroscopic&lt;/a&gt; issues are a concern (although, from my experience with less-demanding boat two-stroke, even couple-years old fuel can be used sometimes).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carburettor&lt;/strong&gt; (single Keihin CVK 36) may needs tuning, or even re-jetting. We would have to wait until we find and install K&amp;amp;N filter on it. As far as I can see, there is no vacuum actuation on it, so it should be run by plain mechanical linkages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if change of back pressure due to straight-pipe exhaust could affect the carb, but I had tried to run with airbox completely off, but nothing had changed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Electricals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition timing&lt;/strong&gt; may be off. As I understand, it has electronic ignition, and the control unit cannot figure out proper timing. That is just a guess, for I know not exactly how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We are going to check &lt;strong&gt;spark plugs&lt;/strong&gt; for combustion symptoms and quality of the spark tomorrow, along with the battery. I shall update.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are few guesses I have. None of them explain, why it worked fine one day, and stopped the next. I cannot think of anything that we could have done between now and then that would cause these issue. All we did is just a bit of cleaning and tightened few bolts. I would like to know which causes are more likely given the symptoms, and where should we start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T21:03:29.967" Title="Carburetted motorcycle stalls when accelerator is applied" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:08:31.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back pressure and flow change of the exhaust will have an effect on the combustion and mixture. Usually with a free flowing exhaust, you have to rejet the carb a little richer and with a free flowing airfilter, doubly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running it without an airbox is making it worse, the mixture is already lean and stuffing more air down the bores isn't going to help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rejet the carb appropriately, normally the exhaust manufacturer should have some suggestions for the correct jetting. Alternatively get a range of jets and do plug chops. You might also want to consider adjusting the needle position if the carb has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:08:31.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5473" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:20:31.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plxdevices.com/product_cat.php?id=MULT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.plxdevices.com/product_cat.php?id=MULT&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These guys offer ODB2 gauges. Since some gauges are not transmitted over ODB2, and sometimes ODB2 is just too slow... they also offer the ability to daisy chain in new gauge sensors to the 1 display module (or multiple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just get a Wifi or Bluetooth ODB2 adapter and run an Android or iPad tablet as your gauges. They also sell products for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1681" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:20:31.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5498" CreationDate="2013-03-01T22:54:57.200" Score="4" ViewCount="2391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Acura Integra with 204k miles on it.  Some mornings after the car has been parked in my driveway facing up a slight slope overnight with the handbrake set, the first time I apply the brakes while backing out causes this very loud metal on metal noise that reverberates through the car.  The brakes are fine thereafter and don't stick or make noise when braking while moving forward.  The simple solution is to back into the driveway, but I'd like to know what's going on.  Any clues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1776" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T02:11:51.327" Title="What could cause a metal-on-metal noise when braking only while backing?" Tags="|brakes|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-02T01:09:08.533" Score="0" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban that is stalling after a short warm up. I finally put it in the back yard until I get a new idea, but without going into the problem and what I have tried (which includes many obvious things that I might go into that later), I wanted to check out a hunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran across a mention of replacing the distributor or degaussing it. I guess after many years some distributors become magnetized. If they use electronic ignition that uses a magnetic pickup, then they won't run right. My truck has that kind of ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain how I can degauss my distributor and where would I get the degaussing equipment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Okay, I have done several things already. I have replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the fuel pump relay, the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, the rotor, the distributor cap, and the EGR valve. There are some other things I have done that I can't remember right now. I have not replaced the injectors, which appear to be working fine on visual inspection. I like to tinker, but I obviously have given up for awhile. But this degaussing idea has me intrigued.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T23:22:50.943" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:33:33.963" Title="How to degauss a distributor" Tags="|chevrolet|ignition|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5608" CreationDate="2013-03-02T15:21:17.813" Score="5" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1993 Jeep Wrangler has about 200,000 miles, in good shape.  It usually starts right up, but it's started intermittently flooding, so that I have to crank and crank with the accelerator all the way down before it roars to life.  Sometimes on acceleration from a stop, or when changing gears (and applying light accelerator), the motor will stall, and then it's always flooded.  Luckily the battery is strong enough I've always been able to get it started, but it'll soon leave me stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it sound like water in the fuel line?  May be worse in wet weather (currently 20-40F in February New Hampshire).  Does it sound like the air filter needs replacing?  Can't tell if it's worse warm or cold, there may not be any correlation.  It does &quot;seem&quot; more like insufficient air than insufficient fuel.  Guessing.  Amateur mechanical abilities, with some tools, follows directions well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: a squeaking belt turned out to be a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2822" LastEditorUserId="2822" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T18:16:50.833" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:16:50.833" Title="1993 Jeep stalls on acceleration, floods, hard to start" Tags="|fuel-system|starting|jeep|water-pump|air-intake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5495" CreationDate="2013-03-03T03:10:44.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like a fuel line problem ( though there's a small small chance it's a fuel pump ), it sounds like your engine isn't getting enough air on one end or the other. It might be a dirty air filter, or it might be a clogged cat or bad O2 sensor. Sometimes it's easy to tell if the cat is clogged, it will get extra hot and turn red and that's your indicator that it need to be replaced. Sometimes it's a little harder and you would need to take out an O2 sensor and test it, or take out an O2 sensor and put a pressure sensor in it's place and test for excessive pressure, I think anything over roughly 3 psi spells trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T03:10:44.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5493" CreationDate="2013-03-03T05:48:52.353" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda's and Accuras are famous for using wear indicators that are shaped/oriented a specific way that causes them to grind only when you reverse. In all likelihood you have a worn brake pad and probably some rotors that need to be replaced at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T05:48:52.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5493" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:43:40.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How humid is it outside when this happens? It could just be surface rust getting scraped away. This usually isn't very loud, but kind of a low metal on metal slushing/grinding sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be that your brakes are &quot;resonating&quot;, which is a term I just invented to describe the somewhat loud, low reverberations that are caused by the brakes quickly grabbing and breaking free of the rotor at a high frequency, 60-150 Hz or so (is my guess). I am able to do this in a lot of automatic cars (at any time during my trip, however) by pressing the brake only slightly, holding it at just the right spot. This allows the car to move forward at 1/2 MPH or so and it has this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T02:11:51.327" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T02:11:51.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:51:57.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil seals are just part of the car game. They all get them, sometimes one make or model more often then others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to tell how severe, or at least how long it's been that way without someone cleaning is to see how much of the area around the leak is coated with oil. If it's all nasty everywhere under the car, it's probably been there a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, oil leaks fall into one of two categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ones that happen fast, without much of a warning and the engine is&#xA;ruined&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ones that leak slowly and never get fixed because they don't leak enough to matter between oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the ones I've dealt with are the latter. I suppose the third option would be an oil leak that was moderate and caused damage due to too much loss before the next oil change. Unlikely that the car would be for sale in this case, as idiot lights go off and the sorts of problems that would result usually end up taking the entire motor out in a short time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And further, the VWs from at least 2008 turn the motor off immediately when encountering low oil pressure. Not that I would know anything about that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:51:57.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-04T14:21:09.590" Score="0" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to replace the starter on my Suburban. When I go to BuyAutoParts.com, and fill in the make/model/year &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buyautoparts.com/selectpart/1998_GMC/Suburban/Starter/30-0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buyautoparts.com/selectpart/1998_GMC/Suburban/Starter/30-0.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get two choices for 5.7Liter. Once says SD255 and the other says PMGR. Do you know what these mean? Do you suggest a different way to determine the correct starter for my vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T04:19:10.923" Title="SD255 vs PMGR Starter - GMC 1998 Suburban" Tags="|starter|part-identification|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-04T14:26:12.487" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5434/slow-chugs-from-starter-with-warm-engine-but-not-cool-engine&quot;&gt;Slow chugs from starter with warm engine but not cool engine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that while the engine is running, it heats up the starter, and then it sounds like it is barely able to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the factory starter, and there appears to be a factory heat shield in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that older starters require additional power / are less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that rather than installing after-market insulation, I should get the starter replaced - after all, it is 14 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem like a good idea to you, or do you think that the new starter would have the same problem the old one did?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T21:45:53.933" Title="Does starter replacement make sense in a heat sink situation?" Tags="|replace|starter|heat|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5503" CreationDate="2013-03-04T16:12:07.840" Score="5" ViewCount="2627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car fan won't work unless it's on 4 (full power). I have 4 options of power for the fan 1 - 4 but nothing happens on options 1 - 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken the panel off and cleaned all the contacts for the fan control (with a bit of very fine sand paper) but it didn't seem to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked all the fuses related to fans and it all seems Ok (although I wouldn't expect it to work at all if a fuse had blown). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: Vauxhall Vectra 04 Reg 1.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/495/why-might-lower-settings-of-a-dashboard-fan-not-work-if-the-highest-does&quot;&gt;Why might lower settings of a dashboard fan not work if the highest does?&lt;/a&gt; which seems to say the resistor has blown so does anyone have any information on where to find the &lt;code&gt;blower motor resistor&lt;/code&gt; on my vectra? (I am keen on fixing this myself if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T13:29:12.613" Title="How to troubleshoot a fan that won't work unless it's on it's on the highest setting?" Tags="|electrical|ac|hvac|vauxhall|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2013-03-04T16:22:07.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a bit more research and it looks like this link sorts my issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blower-motor-resistor.co.uk/vauxhall-vectra-c-blower-motor-resistor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blower-motor-resistor.co.uk/vauxhall-vectra-c-blower-motor-resistor.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T16:22:07.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5505" CreationDate="2013-03-04T17:09:31.360" Score="7" ViewCount="139163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have to use only coolant for radiator or mix coolant with water, if so what percentage of coolant and water should be mixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2829" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T10:07:07.990" Title="Using only coolant or mix of water for radiator?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5504" CreationDate="2013-03-04T18:33:14.747" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight coolant does not have the cooling properties of water. Straight water causes corrosion, freezes at too high of a temperature, and boils at too low of a temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range to shoot for is between 50/50 to 70/30 Coolant/water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T18:33:14.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5179" CreationDate="2013-03-04T20:02:42.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try heating it with a torch to loosen it.  You could also get a reverse-direction drill bit, and drill down into the bolt; the heat will help the reverse bit to unscrew it, and if not then you can easily get the remainder of the bolt out by stepping up bit sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2830" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T20:02:42.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5504" CreationDate="2013-03-04T21:28:25.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Larry has stated straight water or antifreeze are not ideal coolants when used alone. When mixed in a 50/50 ratio the boil/freeze point is ideal for all but the most extreme climates. If you are unsure of how to achieve this ratio. Safely empty and capture as much of the coolant as possible. This may involve removing a drain plug in the radiator along with the block. Although it is more expensive, premixed coolant is available which will allow you to refill the system with the proper 50/50 mix. An alternative would be to get an empty coolant container fill it half full of water and fill the rest with straight antifreeze to achieve the proper mix. pour it into the cooling system, repeat the process until the cooling system is full. Depending on the vehicle, filling the system completely can become involved. As the system is refilled air is trapped and it must be burped. In the simplest systems running the engine does this. In extreme cases it must be vacum filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T21:28:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5501" CreationDate="2013-03-04T21:45:53.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking the starter out and bring it to your local  auto parts store. Most can test it to verify it is bad. There is the oddball chance that the engine may be overheating and something is binding internally.  While installing the new starter verify that the heat shield is intact and that the battery cables are clean tight and in good shape. Also make sure you save and reuse any shims(thin metal strips that fit between the starter and block) that your current starter is using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T21:45:53.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5500" CreationDate="2013-03-05T01:09:14.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PMGR stands for permanent magnet gear reduction. I can't find anything on SD255. Doing some searching at Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts showed images that all looked the same, a typical Chevy starter. I would contact a local parts store see if they have one in stock. Pull your starter out bring it with you to match it up and have it tested. Most stores have a warranty on starters. Do you want to pay to ship a thirty pound starter back and wait two weeks for them to ship it back if you have a problem. Also remember that rebuilt is a relative term. Some people take it to mean they fixed what was broken, to someone else it means replace everything that could wear so it is as it was new. Buying on line may cost less but be sure you know what you are getting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T01:09:14.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5511" CreationDate="2013-03-05T03:02:18.513" Score="1" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;strong&gt;Automatic Transmission&lt;/strong&gt; vehicle, changing gear to &lt;code&gt;Neutral&lt;/code&gt; at all possible times like,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;before breaking for stopping for a color light &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or driving downhill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will save the fuel in a considerable amount? or is it a bad practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2829" LastEditorUserId="2829" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T14:43:22.077" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T14:43:22.077" Title="Is changing gear to `Neutral` at all possible times a bad practice?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-03-06T16:17:17.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5510" CreationDate="2013-03-05T06:33:11.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coasting in neutral does not do you much good in fuel-injected car, because under &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3610/1764&quot;&gt;the engine braking&lt;/a&gt; modern control units shut off fuel completely, whereas when coasting, engine is still running on idle. As for stopping at traffic lights, I usually switch to neutral to reduce wear of the clutch, and load on the engine. Better yet, if the stop is going to be reasonably long, I shut off engine completely, as restarting of a warm engine does not take much, while &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/is-idling-bad-for-your-engine/3428#3428&quot;&gt;excessive idling is bad&lt;/a&gt; in general, and bad for fuel economy in more ways than one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T06:33:11.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5510" CreationDate="2013-03-05T11:36:16.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most wehicle owners manuals advise against towing the vehicle with drive wwheels on the ground if it is equipped with an automatic trans. The reason for this is that wheels will turn the transmission internals. The parts will not be lubricated due to fluid flow in nuetral vs in drive. This may cause accelerated wear. Rolling in neutral is causing the same condition. As others have stated in similar questions sitting in neutral may have little advantage in terms of fuel savings however it does no harm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T11:36:16.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5514" CreationDate="2013-03-05T12:46:08.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;The struts/pistons are no longer strong enough to hold the boot (trunk for americans) open. I went to buy one from the shop only to find the price was for an idividual unit. Is there ever a case where only one would need to be replaced? - how can I test which one needs replacing if this is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2427" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T21:51:43.587" Title="Replacing boot (tailgate/trunk) struts/pistons" Tags="|body|struts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5513" CreationDate="2013-03-05T13:53:06.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Is there ever a case where only one would need to be replaced?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure: rust will kill anything but it does tend to start at a point of entry and spread.  It could kill one strut before it dissolves the rest of the car.  Likewise, a side or corner impact could bend a single strut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;how can I test which one needs replacing if this is the case?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, if you have a car of some years, I'd assume that they're both gone rather than trying to puzzle out how to squeeze a few more years / months out of one old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of testing, you can pretty easily slap together a test rig with scrap lumber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolt the bottoms of both struts to a base plate.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now attach the tops to something robust but relatively light that you can use for compression testing (e.g., a yard stick).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press them both down - does one resist much more strongly?  That one is better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release them both after full compression - which one gets to the top first?  That one is better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you purchase a replacement strut and repeat the process, I think you'll find that you really want two news rather than one new, one oldish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T13:53:06.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2013-03-05T19:55:55.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the under $1 solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2016932&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2016932&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T19:55:55.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5513" CreationDate="2013-03-05T21:51:43.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been my experience that the gas struts are similar to headlights. Occasionally one will fail early, but most of the time the second unit fails shortly after the first. If only one side is replaced it will take the load of the weaker side. This causes it to wear prematurely as it is carrying more than half the load. Also remember that any extra weight on the trunk/boot such as snow, bicycle rack or aftermarket spoiler will increase wear and shorten the cylinders life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T21:51:43.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2013-03-06T01:59:45.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wanted to post as comment, but I do not have enough rep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like power steering failure. I had a belt that snapped on my '92-98 Corolla and had to drive through two seasons without power steering. At a still, and on reverse speeds, the steering was pretty hard to turn, however as soon as the car moved forward, turning the wheel was a breeze. High RPMs did obviously nothing to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try up or downshifting while driving at a certain speed to see if at lower RPMs the steering is harder to turn. It could give you a clue in whether it's the power steering or the ball joints (or some other mechanical/greasable part) that are at fault. Another clue: at a stop, upon trying to turn the steering wheel, you should feel the car working harder (the RPM should sag a bit, but it will mostly remain constant). If you do not feel it working at all, it might indicate complete power steering failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to jack the whole front of the car, you should be able to turn the wheels with your bare hands, without much force. If you hear squeaks or feel friction somewhere, it might not be your power steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;turning the steering wheel is extremely difficult, even moreso than if the power steering had completely failed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not be able to compare steering-assisted and non-steering-assisted car that easily, unless you have driven your Taurus without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Applehat: I do not know if most power steerings are similar, but on my car it definitely was not that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T01:59:45.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T14:31:07.890" Score="20" ViewCount="96396" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we are expecting snow storm and the vehicle is parked, do we pull out the wipers so they don’t touch the glass to avoid the freezing to the windshield? Or would that hurt the springs in the wiper and make them weaker for future use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2842" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T18:56:09.580" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T02:48:32.133" Title="Should I pull my wipers away from the windshield when parked during a winter storm?" Tags="|maintenance|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-03-06T16:04:27.847" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When one lives in places where it snows, even occasionally, they quickly learn to lift the wipers. If you go to a ski resort when the inclement weather is expected, you would see half of the vehicles with wipers pulled up. The other half are either do not have wipers that can be fixed up (in that case one is still advised to separate them from the glass somehow), or they are going to regret it when temperatures hit below freezing after the wet snowfall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, doing so never had any noticeable negative implication on the wiper arm spring. In fact, I have not seen any car, new or old, whose wiping performance suffered when the new wipers were attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the wipers do get frozen to the windscreen, one must take extreme care not to tear them off as it could be done really easily, especially when the rubber is more brittle from the cold. The best solution sometimes is to pour warm water on them, if available. And if your car is covered in snow or ice, always check the wipers by hand as you clean it off, before using the wiper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strong advice: NEVER EVER POUR WARM WATER ON A COLD WINDSHIELD!  (I speak from experience. This can break the windshield.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="33024" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T02:48:32.133" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T02:48:32.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2013-03-06T18:10:27.533" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cable clutch is pulled in and out by a cable from the pedal to the lever which operates it.&#xA;A hydraulic clutch has a cylinder at the pedal like the brakes and feeds fluid to another cylinder which pushed the lever to move the clutch in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2843" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T18:10:27.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-03-06T19:31:57.103" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Canada where we got often snow storm or freezing rain during winter, I never lift my wipers blades. It's clearly unnecessary for a snow storm, as you remove the snow from your car prior of activate your wipers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can see my neighbors lifting theirs when freezing rain is forecasted, some even put cardboard on the windshield to avoid scraping the ice. When it's happen, I start the car, start scrapping the windows and the heat will melt ice around the wipers (some cars have windshield wiper defrosters). I make sure that my wipers blade are clean of any ice and I'm set to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T19:31:57.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:50:36.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the serpentine belt off and start the car  for a second and if the noise persists it is something in the engine, if the noise goes away there is an obvious problem with one the the pullies or belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2844" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:50:36.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5135" CreationDate="2013-03-06T22:24:26.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was in the SLT and SL1 pressure solenoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, thanks for attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2788" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T22:24:26.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-03-07T01:38:27.550" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the effect of raising the wiper arms on the wiper arm springs: raising the wiper arms will not make the springs weaker for future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way that the springs could produce reduced force when the wiper arms are returned to their normal position is if the springs took a permanent &quot;set&quot; from being stretched. This can only happen one of two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The springs were stretched beyond their material yield point and therefore experienced plastic deformation, which is permanent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The springs experienced significant material &quot;creep&quot;, which can happen below the yield point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these scenarios are extremely unlikely in the case of wiper arm springs. The wiper arms are designed to be raised and lowered, and the springs will stay well below the yield point throughout their range of motion, so point 1 does not apply. As for creep, this is a LOOONG term phenomenon, and would occur to some extent even when the wiper arms are down (the stretch of the springs isn't all that different between the up and down positions), so point 2 does not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, feel free to put your wipers up. It won't hurt your springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I grew up in a very snowy region, and it wasn't until I moved out of the serious snow belt that I started to see masses of cars with their wipers up in parking lots. I actually think it's kind of funny. I personally have no problems cleaning my windshield with the wipers down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T01:38:27.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-07T06:15:59.650" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car worked fine till yesterday and yesterday evening I just injected engine oil, power steering oil, coolant and water for wipers. I am pretty sure I added right fluids in right places and I parked my car after a few kilometers drive. The next day morning my car stopped working !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car battery is good, A/C running, lights working and when I try to ignite, engine is trying to start but its not starting. The jushhh!!! sound while trying to start the car is as usual and even I tried giving a long shot but still car is not starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just behaving like no fuel in tank. I even tried adding 10 lts of petrol and tried still the issue was not resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what would be the issue behind this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is with the oils, is there anyway to get confirmation that oils are responsible for the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2801" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T19:34:12.797" Title="Car not starting" Tags="|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2013-03-07T07:00:09.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the data you have given it could be connected with you topping up the fluids incorrectly, but to be honest it could be anything- you could have even knocked a wire while you were working on the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did put the wrong oil in the wrong place I would suggest based on your question that you take it to your local garage as if you haven't drained and replaced oils before it could be a challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T07:00:09.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-03-07T13:15:56.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm against lifting them.  I've never had any trouble (nor caused any damage) breaking one loose with a scraper.  I have, however, had a wiper arm break when it snapped back against the windshield (such as can happen with the wind that normally accompanies Winter storms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T13:15:56.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5469" CreationDate="2013-03-07T17:58:22.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the problem had nothing to do with the shift fork, the issue was that the shift lever was contacting the wrong part of the shift drum assembly. Instead of contacting the pins, it was contacting the shaped piece of metal attached to the end - the one that keeps it in the gear the rider has chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it I needed to pull the left side cover off to expose the shift lever. There was a shaped piece of metal at the top of the shift drum - it holds the pins in place and works with a lever to keep the shift drum in a particular orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to remove the lever and the plate in order to move the shift arm into the correct position - with the pins at the end of the drum in the gap between the teeth of the shift fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I simply bolted the plate and the arm back in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastEditorUserId="2432" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T19:14:38.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T19:14:38.200" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-07T19:22:10.457" Score="3" ViewCount="2538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve had this problem for a while now. When my car is warmed up, and I’m at a stop light or just idle when parked, the engine struggles to stay on. The RPM stays under 1000 and fluctuates a lot, usually between 500 and 700. It’s stalled few times, but mostly it is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read around and decided to replace the fuel filter. Been two days, but so far no change. I will try the oil filter next, but I was hoping someone could give me advice on the most likely culprits so I can try and at least diagnose it and go from there. Oh, and there are no check engine codes. Everything checks out so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2846" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T17:54:31.387" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T06:02:14.683" Title="2000 Ford Focus ZX3 stalls while idling" Tags="|ford|focus|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5532" CreationDate="2013-03-07T21:27:39.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd put a vacuum leak or a failed idle speed controller of some type at the top of my list of suspects.  Not familiar with a Focus, but those are common problems that can cause those symptoms as a car ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T21:27:39.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T05:26:03.440" Score="3" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jeep has a lot of torx bolts that I need to remove and then replace some of.  A while ago I bought a single torx socket from ACE hardware that is made from two steel pieces of metal.  The other day I got a set of torx bits from Autozone because I needed to use my reward zone points, the set I got from autozone are all singe pieces of metal that appear to be cast steel and don't feel too strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which type of socket will hold up better when used with an impact driver?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3zYSl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T13:52:35.820" Title="Which is stronger: solid sockets, or two piece sockets?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5535" CreationDate="2013-03-08T08:30:21.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd use the single bit when working with an impact driver. For such applications, the bit should be firmly secured in the sleeve and I'd be uncomfortable having somewhat loose pieces attached to my tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torx heads provide very good contact between the screw and the head which minimizes tool wear, and cam-out is pretty much impossible, so your cheap-feeling bit should work okay even at moderate loads, especially for small screw sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T08:30:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5535" CreationDate="2013-03-08T12:45:59.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had issues with the &quot;no brand&quot; single piece units. They seem to be prone to catastrophic failure. As you are torquing the ratchet they fracture. The two piece units seem to flex slightly giving some indication that you are overloading it. Although they make a high quality impact driver compatable single piece unit, I doubt it is sold at Pep Boys, AutoZone ,Harbor Freight etc.A single quality impact socket can cost as much as set of the cheap units. When using impact tools a quality socket is important as a failure can release a lot of shrapnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T13:02:10.220" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T13:02:10.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5535" CreationDate="2013-03-08T13:52:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't really matter as to if they're single or multi-piece, what's important is to get sockets that are designed for impact use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T13:52:35.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T15:47:59.140" Score="6" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just replaced my Blower Motor Resistor as my fan wouldn't work on any setting other than 4 (in line with a previous post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5502/how-to-troubleshoot-a-fan-that-wont-work-unless-its-on-its-on-the-highest-set/5503#5503&quot;&gt;How to troubleshoot a fan that won&amp;#39;t work unless it&amp;#39;s on it&amp;#39;s on the highest setting?&lt;/a&gt;). When on 4 I noticed a slight squeal but now that it's working on 1, 2 and 3 I notice a big squeal / clunking when the fan is on the lower settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to fix this or do I need to replace the blower motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: Vauxhall Vextra C - 2004&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2827" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T23:48:50.993" Title="Vauxhall Vectra C Blower Motor Sqealing / Clunking" Tags="|electrical|hvac|vauxhall|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2013-03-08T15:54:03.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I think this is simply a consequence of living in colder climates. The only long term solution to this problem would be to somehow seal off the locking cylinder from condensation and the elements, which would be nearly impossible to do if the only method of unlocking the door is by physically inserting and turning a key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of advice for readers: &lt;strong&gt;do not use WD-40 in your locks&lt;/strong&gt;. Over time the residue that dries inside the lock will build up and the locks will get even tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common solutions for lock de-icing include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock de-icer. You can buy it in small cans similar to WD-40, or make it yourself (a mixture of warm water, isopropyl alcohol, and dish soap -- look online for recipes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need something in a pinch that works almost the same as lock de-icer, use hand sanitizer!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heated key lock de-icer. This is a battery powered device that rapidly heats a small metal rod that fits in the keyhole. They usually look like a key fob or a small rectangular box with a fold out metal rod. There are plenty to find on Amazon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor man's heated key lock de-icer: Use a lighter and heat up your key before inserting it into the lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hair dryer on &lt;strong&gt;low&lt;/strong&gt; (not a heat gun -- they get too hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not try to pour warm or hot water over the lock&lt;/strong&gt; -- the water will seep in and just freeze again and you'll just end up making the situation worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As preventative maintenance, there are lock lubrication products (e.g. Houdini Lock Lubricant) that can be applied before the cold season starts that may reduce the likelihood of a frozen lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/em&gt;: Any of the above methods may damage your paint over time, so please be careful to avoid contact with the body of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T07:04:57.237" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T07:04:57.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2013-03-08T19:34:12.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting the engine requires fuel and spark.  If you want to try and diagnose this yourself, you can see about renting a fuel pressure test gauge and hooking it up to the test port on your fuel rail under the hood.  You can pull the plug wires one at a time and hook up a spark tester to verify the plugs are getting juice from the ignition coil.  If you're short spark or fuel pressure, you've got a subsystem to investigate.  If they're both present, you're getting into engine management territory.  Is the check engine light on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T19:34:12.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5540" CreationDate="2013-03-08T20:43:33.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds very much like a worn blower motor so you at least have to get at the motor to find out what is worn. While you're that deep in the car you might as well replace it with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastEditorUserId="780" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T23:48:50.993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T23:48:50.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5201" CreationDate="2013-03-09T03:53:39.093" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be your Alternator going bad, if you know how to use a voltmeter, while your Lumina is running, put the red lead of the voltmeter to the positive red cable on your battery. Then take the black lead on the voltmeter and place that one on the negative black cable on the battery, The voltage should be 13.8-15.0 volts, If it is 13.00 volts or if it is 15.01+ volts, your alternator is going bad. and you can try putting your blower motor on high, blasting the radio and putting your rear defroster on, if the voltage drops to like 12.00 volts, have your alternator changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2851" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T20:14:49.867" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T20:14:49.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T05:40:52.207" Score="-1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cranked my motor up and it was running then it started making a funny sound so i cut it off and tried to crank it up again and it would never crank. What would be the main reason for it not cranking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2852" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T16:20:47.333" Title="Motor will not crank" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2013-03-09T05:50:41.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is correct. I had the same code since 2010 until 2013. The day I changed O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; sensor 1 upstream for my 2001 Toyota Camry (4 cylinder, 2.2L) the code was cleaned, and then the engine light went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2853" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T20:57:13.037" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T20:57:13.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T06:07:30.203" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car maintains speed for 4 or 5 seconds when releasing gas pedal, then the speed starts dropping slowly. When I’m getting close to a stop light, my car wants to keep going same speed, so I need to start braking harder. There is no sign of a problem. I don’t get any check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cleaned the throttle body thinking that could be the problem. I have to mention that I do hear a clicking noise when I start driving away. This is somewhere around the front axle, but not sure. I did have the clicking noise problem first, now the speed. I don’t know if that is related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2854" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T20:56:49.887" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T22:00:31.163" Title="2010 Sebring maintains speed for about 5 seconds after depressing accelerator pedal" Tags="|troubleshooting|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T07:33:23.003" Score="1" ViewCount="3702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, after a periodic servicing visit for my car (which has a multi point fuel injection system), the mechanic handed me BG Fuel Injection System Cleaner Part No. 210 and asked me to put it in the car engine after filling the tank half full. I am not sure as to wether to put the cleaner fluid in the Gas Tank or the Oil Filter. &#xA;BG's own site states that &quot;This product is designed to be used with the BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush® Apparatus and BG 44K® Part No. 208.&quot; I neither have the BG 9210 apparatus nor the BG44k. Please suggest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2855" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T23:04:52.960" Title="How to use BG Fuel Injection System Cleaner?" Tags="|engine|cleaning|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T11:11:57.377" Score="1" ViewCount="2532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Accord with original radio. The problem is that it doesn’t save any radio station presets. Well, sometimes it does, it seems like when the engine is hot and I program the stations then it saves them, but never overnight or longer periods when the engine is switched off. And it’s only the radio station presets that will go, the other settings are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastEditorUserId="382" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T00:15:30.307" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T12:18:45.287" Title="My car stereo does not save radio station presets" Tags="|electrical|honda|accord|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2013-03-09T16:20:47.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine cranks (turns over with the starter) but doesn't run (engine stops turning when the starter stops) It's usually one of three problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel - spray short bursts of starting fluid (ether) in the intake while cranking the vehicle. If the vehicle runs while you are spraying the starting fluid the vehicles fuel system should be checked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fire (spark) - Pull a spark plug off and hold it close to metal (ground) have someone crank the engine and look for spark. If you have no spark check the ignition system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical - You may have a mechanical problem like a blown head gasket, broken timming chain or belt, broken crankshaft, or broken camshaft just to name a few.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like yours may be mechanical based on the noise prior to you turning off the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is based entirely on the assumption that you have a gasoline engine and not a diesel. It would help if you would edit your answer to include make model year and engine size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T16:20:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5549" CreationDate="2013-03-09T16:24:37.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not put that product in the tank. It is designed to be used full strength. The BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush® is used to pressurize the fuel system and let the car run directly off the cleaner. The 44K is used in the tank after the 210 has been run through the injectors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T16:24:37.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T21:15:35.407" Score="3" ViewCount="7899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2005 Ford Focus 4-door sedan. The button on the FOB and button on the dashboard to open the trunk no longer works. I can hear a click inside the car when I push the button. It started about 6 months ago. I have been using the key to open the trunk. I tried a few weeks ago and the push of the button (on both FOB and dash) would make the lock work when the trunk lid was open but not to open the trunk. The button worked until the lid was several inches above closing but stopped working when it was shut or almost shut. I tried again today and it only gives a click inside the car when you push the button.  Does anybody know how to fix this problem. The FOB works fine with the door locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2858" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T00:59:02.010" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T18:52:59.900" Title="Trunk lid release" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|locks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2013-03-09T21:55:04.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking might be a CV joint or wheel bearing and most likely not related to the throttle issue. First look at the floormats or anything that might be against the gas pedal. Checking a couple of forums I found some items about throttle cable fraying. I would diconnect the cable and cycle the throttle body, see if the spring returns it to the closed position. I would look for fraying, pay particular attention where the cable enters and exits the cable housing. Reattach the cable and have an assisitant cycle the throttle. Watch if the cable returns quickly. You may also have a faulty throttle position sensor. While searching I also found several sites selling throttle cable brackets which may indicate they can be problematic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T21:55:04.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T23:46:11.523" Score="11" ViewCount="142203" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a '98 Buick Lesabre with the 3800 engine and about 170k miles. It appears as though some oil was in the radiator, but I haven't seen any signs of coolant in the oil. The water pump recently went bad, so I'm not sure how much oil was in the radiator because all the coolant leaked out; I just found some on the inside of the cap. When the water pump went the serpentine belt came off. I drove it to the mechanic and they said I needed a new pump, belt and a flush. They didn't mention any other problems. I drove home and haven't started it since. It didn't overheat at any point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have a blown head gasket? If not, why would oil be leaking into the coolant, but no coolant leaking into the oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2860" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T14:40:24.127" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T06:03:46.227" Title="Why would there be transmission fluid in the water overflow reservoir?" Tags="|troubleshooting|coolant|cooling-system|oil-leak|water-pump|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-03-10T04:54:45.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that the oil cooler is leaking if the vehicle is equipped will have one. Look for metal lines running into the radiator tank. If you have an automatic transmission there will be two sets of lines on each tank of the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T16:44:42.913" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T16:44:42.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-03-10T10:10:37.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems unlikely that you have a blown head gasket if you don't have milky oil. In fact it's fairly common to see some trace of oil on  your radiator cap. A little bit of oil works its way in there, especially if you replace parts of the cooling system. You should be safe to just keep an eye on it for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T10:10:37.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5564" CreationDate="2013-03-11T05:56:12.970" Score="5" ViewCount="12351" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why are copper washers required on banjo fittings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why do they&#xA;    need to be replaced each time you remove/loosen the banjo fitting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that copper is a softer metal than bronze, brass or steel so they will squish when torqued to make a seal. However, I've seen copper crush washers that had an embossed ring in the center of the washer that would actually crush down when under pressure. Today I had to replace the washers for an oil feed line for a turbo but the manual calls for copper washers and not crush washers. Do the flat copper washers work in the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:35:20.553" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T17:58:33.957" Title="Why are copper washers required on banjo fittings?" Tags="|banjo-bolts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5532" CreationDate="2013-03-11T06:02:14.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had this issue with my 2011 Chevy Cruze. The PCV valve under the valve cover was stuck open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had issues with the Idle Air Control on a previous Neon. This was a bigger problem when the A/C was on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, vacuum leak would be on the top of mt list for things to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has a MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) it may need to be cleaned (especially if you have a K&amp;amp;N or some other oiled element filter). You can get some MAF cleaner at local part store and just use the manual to determine how to remove it. Spray it off and let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick fix may be to remove the positive batt cable and try to turn the car on a few times. This will drain the power and the car will need to relearn everything (including it's idle settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T06:02:14.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5563" CreationDate="2013-03-11T11:05:50.637" Score="6" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a 2012 Lexus rx450h but will be moving to one of the states (Arizona, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington, as well as the District of Columbia) under the California emission laws soon and wonder if it will automatically qualify for California emissions or would I have to make modifications to the car? If not automatic, can I use the VIN to determine whether the car already qualifies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not qualify and it will require modifications, what kind and scope of modifications would be required and is there any possibility of doing them yourself or must it be done by a regulated mechanic? If modifications are required, what if any impact would this have on its regular maintenance schedule, would there be extra maintenance, would it be more costly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does qualify, does that mean the more stringent California warranty of 150K/10yrs automatically applies to the hybrid batteries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastEditorUserId="2478" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T15:19:30.743" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T21:53:01.997" Title="How to know whether a Lexus rx450h qualifies for California Emissions standards?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5562" CreationDate="2013-03-11T14:41:09.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open up the hood and look at the emissions control system label.  That will indicate whether it meets California emissions standards or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ys0DI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ys0DI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of 49-state vs. California labels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at least for California (Not sure about other California-standards states), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&amp;amp;urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can register a 49-state vehicle in California after you move there if you previously registered it in your previous home state&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastEditorUserId="2478" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T21:53:01.997" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T21:53:01.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5560" CreationDate="2013-03-11T16:01:43.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the copper washer is required to create a seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even flat copper washers will deform during tightening to create a seal. They're made from annealed copper, which is very soft. The raised ridge just reduces the load required to initiate the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, these washers should be replaced rather than re-used, as the act of deforming an annealed copper washer effectively &quot;hardens&quot; the material, making it more difficult to crush next time, therefore you may not get a good seal when re-using a copper washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T16:01:43.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2013-03-11T18:17:03.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Honda Accord V6 for a while. The person who owned the car before me had been running on premium gas. When I tried using super this did not happen again for a whole year. It did end up happening again, but this may have been because of some of these cheap gas stations I go to. I would say try out the highest grade for a month or so and see what happens, I am pretty sure it will solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T19:42:42.620" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T19:42:42.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5567" CreationDate="2013-03-11T18:27:51.067" Score="3" ViewCount="37561" Body="&lt;p&gt;The service manual that came with my vehicle recommends replacing the timing belt at 90,000 miles.  It has a note at the bottom of the page though that this is for the 2uz-fe engine only.  Apparently that's the 4.7 L, mine is the 5.7 L.  I'm not a car guy so didn't really understand the difference between the timing belt and chain and such.  Anyway I went to my mechanic and showed him the service manual and asked him how much it would cost to do all the required maintenance.&#xA;He looked at it carefully and even asked me what type of engine mine was (whether or not it was the 4.7 L, etc). &#xA;He then said the timing belt was really hard to replace labor wise and that was like 10 hours.  He said if the manual said it should be replaced then i definitely should or else the engine could get damaged.&#xA;I think he said all this in good faith.&#xA;However, then he called to get a quote on the parts and I heard something mentioned about a chain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So ... then he quotes me $850 to do the job.&#xA;I'm reading online and finding out that apparently a chain doesn't need to be replaced when the belt does as the chains are designed to last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm hearing is that this isn't necessary, is that right?&#xA;Should I feel like he tried to rip me off?&#xA;Does the chain ever need to be replaced - any idea when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2868" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T15:31:06.697" Title="Does the Timing Chain Need to be Replaced on the 2008 Toyota Sequoia at 90,000 Miles?" Tags="|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5566" CreationDate="2013-03-11T19:29:36.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 5.7L engine (3UR-FE) does have a timing chain, while the 4.7L engine (2UZ-FE) uses a belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, timing chains are designed to be maintenance free. If your service manual does not recommend a replacement interval, you don't need to plan on replacing the timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T19:29:36.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-12T07:34:38.710" Score="4" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonneville_Salt_Flats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bonneville Salt Flats&lt;/a&gt; in a few weeks, and wanted to take my bike out for a spin there. Not breaking any speed records, you see, just for fun, and the sense of history, so to speak. However, my primary concern is the heavy salt deposits that can accumulate there &lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.returnofthecaferacers.com/2012/02/bonneville-salt-flat-bikes-2011.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xy9JR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aspect of it is the abrasion of salt crystals, and if it’s something to worry about at all, say, comparing to regular sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, I am worried about corrosion, and cleaning. I’ve heard that people clean vehicles right after the run, but how important to do it right away at the spot? Can I just run to nearby town and hose it down? Is there any specific cleaning routine with specific treatments, or just a regular thorough wash would do? Is there any pre-treatment such as waxing etc. to further protect the surfaces? Should I be worried about the instant reaction of salt and water to produce some sort of acidic solution given the amount of salt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2020-03-14T06:08:45.187" Title="Dealing with deposits on salt flats/mines" Tags="|cleaning|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5568" CreationDate="2013-03-12T09:24:46.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have thought it'd be fine to run to a nearby town to clean it - although if everyone is doing so, there might be a dedicated cleaning area set-up anyway? (assuming you're at an official meet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reaction of salt and water will basically give you sea water - which is slightly alkaline. The problem is that the salt increases the conductivity of the water and thus causes the oxidation process to occur quicker. Any treatment which covers the surface of the steel will help - make sure the paintwork is in good condition with no chips. Waxing should help too, for the same reason - you also might want to spray some kind of rust-preventative inside the frame too, if it's accessible? (waxoyl/dinitrol or similar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid using any chemical cleaners which might react with the salt though - just use water, or a properly formulated car cleaner. Re-wax it again after cleaning too..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T09:24:46.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5550" CreationDate="2013-03-12T12:18:45.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that as it is saving the other settings that it is getting a constant live from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And assuming that no on has messed around with the wiring all SHOULD be well. However it's clearly not so i would guess that this is an internal issue and only reoslution would be a replacement unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in some cases where the wiring has been 'altered' then both the constant live and ignition/accessory live are wired together to the ignition/accessory live meaning that once the ignition is tunred off, then all settings are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps but i can't think of any other reason, other than an internal fault that would cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T12:18:45.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-12T19:07:09.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe. I'd like to get the doors to lock when the vehicle is shifted from park, and unlock when the vehicle is shifted to park. There is an indicator on the dash that displays the current status of the transmission, so there must be signal wiring somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've located the the power lock wire (Yellow wire in 22 pin white plug, in drivers kick panel) and the power unlock wire (White/Black wire in 22 pin white plug, in driver kick panel), but I'm not sure where the wiring that signals the transmissions status is located or the wire colors.  I'm also not sure how the signaling wires are powered, so I don't know if a simple jumper will accomplish the task, or if it will require a custom control circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get the doors to lock when the vehicle is shifted from park, and unlock when the vehicle is shifted to park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a bit of research online, it seemed that this may have been a dealer programmed feature. However, after sending an email to Hyundai customer support, it appears this &amp;quot;feature&amp;quot; is not included in this model year vehicle.  Hyundai customer support directed me to contact my local dealer, though I'm guessing the dealer would simply try to sell me a new vehicle that actually has this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T03:18:37.283" Title="Is it possible to automatically lock the doors when my Santa Fe is shifted from park?" Tags="|locks|wiring|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T01:33:05.043" Score="6" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Honda Odyssey automatic, it stopped running in the middle of the road and when I tried starting it again it made a loud whining sound, then I turned the key off and tried again and it started, what could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:48:49.217" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:48:49.217" Title="Honda Odyssey engine cut out" Tags="|engine|honda|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5576" CreationDate="2013-03-13T03:05:50.713" Score="8" ViewCount="5515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at the power rating of an engine used in a Humvee (5500 lbs) and was surprised it's only ~190 horsepower, which is exceeded by many 4 door sedans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So an obvious question is why doesn't my Camry SE (3300 lbs) burn more gas than a Humvee and I think it's just because during regular use, it doesn't use anywhere near 250 HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone on the physics stack forums gave me an estimate that it only takes ~35 HP for an average car to go 50 mph on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have 2 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can someone speculate what the torque vs RPM graphs of a sedan engine and a Humvee engine look like and what the typical operating points are? It seems the Humvee engine would be operating much closer towards its peak power while spinning slower, but at much higher torque?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the peak power is never used for passenger vehicles, why don't they use a smaller engine and save some money?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2872" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:06:01.887" Title="why do engines have so much unused horsepower?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5574" CreationDate="2013-03-13T07:53:50.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question has a few unconnected points in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as jmosrt253 said, a Humvee engine is a large diesel engine - which means its torque is low down in the revs range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humvee engines, like many large diesels, are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; highly tuned. They are built to be robust and survive in extreme conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;up to a point, horsepower is irrelevant for speeds. It &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; relevant for acceleration. Pretty much all cars these days can do 50mph, but do you want the car to be able to get there in 3 seconds or 12 seconds. (As speeds get higher you do need horsepower to offset drag, which is why only the most powerful cars reach 200mph)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peak power is used for passenger vehicles when you need it, but when you don't need it, you take your foot off the accelerator and are instantly saving money by sending less fuel to the engine. Some modern engines also stop providing fuel to half the cylinders when cruising&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real driver for engine size has always been the cost of fuel, so in the US, where fuel is cheap, fuel consumption was not an issue - hence large, inefficient engines. Compare this with the UK, Europe and Japan, where fuel is very expensive and you find manufacturers making highly tuned, highly efficient, small engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a power/rpm graph for the Humvee, but there are any number online for ordinary cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your question &quot;Why doesn't my Camry burn more fuel than a Humvee&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Camry engine is a far more efficient engine - you are getting much higher horsepower from much less fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T08:41:06.923" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T08:41:06.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5574" CreationDate="2013-03-13T12:47:23.490" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The root problem here is that you are conflating several different terms.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Calculating_power&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; for a calculation of horsepower from torque (tau) and rpm (f in this equation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qZw4e.png&quot; alt=&quot;Horsepower is torque times rpm divided by 5252 (in Imperial units)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you assumed a flat torque curve, you can see that peak horsepower would continue to increase with RPM.  In fact, if you wanted to increase your marketing horsepower for a new vehicle, you'd just need to raise the rev limiter and keep torque from dropping faster than one foot-pound / rpm.  Not only that, you can also see that the scalar values for power and torque (i.e., without their units) will always be equal at 5252 rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.Can someone speculate what the torque vs RPM graphs of a sedan engine and a Humvee&#xA;  engine look like and what the typical operating&#xA;  points are? It seems the Humvee engine would be operating much closer&#xA;  towards its peak power while spinning slower, but at much higher&#xA;  torque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously remarked, the diesel in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humvee&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HMMWV&lt;/a&gt; has a high peak torque at low rpms but the torque drops off rapidly, resulting in a peak horsepower at lower rpms than the Camry (190 hp @ 3,400 rpm / 380 lbf·ft @ 1,700 rpm cited on the Wikipedia page).  The normally aspirated &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Camry_%28XV50%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Camry&lt;/a&gt; has a much &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine#2GR-FE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flatter torque curve&lt;/a&gt; with a torque peak closer to 4700 rpm and power peak at 6200 rpm (making some assumptions that we're discussing a fairly recent Camry SE with the 2GR-FE engine).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go back to the original equation, that means that the first derivative of the Camry's torque curve is zero at 4700 rpm and negative one at 6200 rpm (where torque's rate of decrease finally overwhelms the linear increase of rpm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.If the peak power is never used for passenger vehicles, why don't they use a smaller engine and save some money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do.  You just didn't buy that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Civilian engine and automotive design is driven by certain marketing points.  In this case, the Camry has a broad torque and power curves so there's no need to shift frequently (more than two shifts to 60 mph affects that critical 0-60 marketing number).  Military transports have entirely different mission parameters including such factors as ease of maintenance, weapon systems, not getting blown up and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If economy is your key factor, you can choose a smaller engine.  Every manufacturer is offering a variety of displacements and engine technologies now.  The current Camry SE offers a smaller inline four cylinder, a four cylinder hybrid and a larger V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, it's nearly impossible for a gasoline powered engine to beat the miles per gallon of a turbo diesel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T12:47:23.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5581" CreationDate="2013-03-13T23:10:55.467" Score="2" ViewCount="18247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1980 Jeep CJ-7, and I've noticed when I turn the wheel sharply to the left or right, I can hear a hissing sound. It seems to be coming from the engine compartment/end of the steering column area. Is this a potential problem, or nothing to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marca &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2879" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T02:30:46.670" Title="Hissing Sound when Turning Sharp" Tags="|noise|jeep|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2013-03-14T04:22:04.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the steering wheel is at the &lt;strong&gt;end&lt;/strong&gt; of its travel (completely left/right) it is normal that the power steering pump starts making some extra noise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;strong&gt;max travel&lt;/strong&gt;, the steering pump will produce its &lt;strong&gt;maximum pressure&lt;/strong&gt; and will have to work the hardest. This &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; create a &quot;hissing&quot; type noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the fluid level is &lt;strong&gt;low&lt;/strong&gt;, then you will hear the pump moaning the whole travel range. You could easily check the fluid level yourself, there is a small dipstick fixed on the bottom side of the fluid fill cap. &lt;em&gt;(the cap itself has a yellow decal with a steering wheel on it)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump itself is just at the right side of the alternator when standing in front of the engine &lt;em&gt;(It's been a while since I've seen one of those in the shop, so the location may be different)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T04:22:04.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5201" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:00:12.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, great presentation, very descriptive. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2010-05-10_161225_1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;belt diagram&lt;/a&gt; on the vehicle it seems that it is in dead one belt. Here is how I would handle this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; you have the ability and tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the serpentine belt and inspect &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pulleys &lt;em&gt;(not just the ones in question)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to remove the belt you will have to pull the spring-loaded tensioner away from the belt. &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/drivefast1971/2010-05-10_163122_1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference this photo&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be careful when you release the tensioner. When released it will bite you if you're not careful. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin the pulleys hand and see if you can get them to make noise.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pulleys should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;spin forever&quot;. &lt;strong&gt;New&lt;/strong&gt; pulleys have a slight resistance giving them a &lt;strong&gt;tight&lt;/strong&gt; feel while &lt;strong&gt;old&lt;/strong&gt; pulleys will make a &quot;crackling&quot; type sound from its center &lt;em&gt;(where the bearing sits)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the top and bottom of the pulley and see if it has any play. rocking it against it's center as if it were a see-saw.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pulleys should show &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; little to no play in them. If they do show a &lt;em&gt;decent&lt;/em&gt; amount of movement. It's time to replace them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the belt is off, be sure to check the belt and make sure that it's not getting &lt;strong&gt;chewed&lt;/strong&gt; up by any of the pulleys or it's not cracking.&#xA;    - I only say this due to the fact that while it's off it's a good time to replace it if it's worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T05:00:12.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:14:02.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lawnmowers and power equipment, gasoline can go bad in as few as 30 days. Always drain your tank before winter or add a fuel stabilizer which will prolong your gasoline life up to 12 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2882" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:56:48.233" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:56:48.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T13:15:49.600" Score="8" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took a detour through a ditch on the way to work. There was a lot of snow there which made itself known - my car and it got along pretty well but as far as I'm concerned, they need to permanently break-up and not get so close again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my car suffered a hit to its ego. One of the wheels (passenger side front, for the curious) seems to have bent a fair bit as there is considerable runout. In other words, the whole wheel is very clearly not correct with respect to the car anymore, and I get steering wheel vibration and its obvious the wheel is not correctly aligned when driving slow. It seems to &quot;wobble.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since had my tires aligned since they needed it before I took a scenic route and I'm pretty sure this didn't help the alignment. Obviously alignment doesn't fix the runout/bent wheel/rim problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best bet to fix this? It would seem I need to replace the metal part of the wheel assembly, but literally every single place I've looked has only had the rubber (or internal) parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2005 Ford Focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T18:59:48.650" Title="Fixing wheel runout after &quot;detour&quot; through ditch" Tags="|ford|tires|wheels|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5586" CreationDate="2013-03-14T13:24:21.210" Score="4" ViewCount="1256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Ford Focus station wagon.  The back windshield wiper slowly had started to cover less and less of the back windshield (up until yesterday it was only wiping the bottom 30% or so, the top 70% was completely missed because the blade was not connecting to the window).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the blade yesterday as my front both needed replacement about a year ago and I just &lt;em&gt;knew&lt;/em&gt; we were going to have freezing rain while driving to work today. In this process, I more or less, well bent the back wiper assembly until it was working correctly - this included using a twist-tie to correctly apply pressure to get things to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this might have &quot;worked&quot; I don't necessarily know if this is the correct way to fix this problem. Is there a more recommended strategy than this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a rough approximation of where the wiper blade was not hitting (everywhere above the red line):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WVmlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the blade itself. You can see the twist-tie. The arrow points to where I bent it out slightly to apply more pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVIAU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the spring is completely clean (no dirt/ice/etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastEditorUserId="2549" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T18:03:29.687" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T20:01:16.990" Title="What is recommended way to fix rear station wagon windshield wiper?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2013-03-14T14:14:46.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing which typically causes this is the tension spring (which pulls the wiper towards the glass) becoming clogged with dirt. A good spray with a jet washer followed by application of a light lubricant should do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the wiper pulled away from the glass you should be able to see the tension spring - if not, you may need to disassemble the wiper unit (I'm not sure on that model)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:14:46.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5584" CreationDate="2013-03-14T18:59:48.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is find a Wheel Repair Place. In order for them to fix and out-of-round it it stripped down and put on a machine and bent back into its original form. Also they handle and cracks or stresses that the wheel may have in order to get it back to it's original strength. Here in Los Angeles I work with a few companies that offer pick-up and drop-off services and it usually takes about a day to day and a half for them to complete the job. The cost varies depending on size and damage amount _(Usually customers pay around $70 per wheel for straightening and painting). But, when you get it back, the wheel should look brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note, if you decide to go with a company like this. They will handle removing the tire &lt;em&gt;(rubber)&lt;/em&gt; from the rim &lt;em&gt;(metal)&lt;/em&gt; so you don't have to make any extra steps. You should just have to take the wheel off the vehicle for them &lt;em&gt;(put your spare tire on so you can still drive for the next couple days)&lt;/em&gt;. When they return the wheel to you it should/will be mounted, balanced, and full of air. You will just have to take your spare back off and put your wheel back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that. No tire shop is going to be able to help you with making the wheel round again unless they just order you a new wheel. Which would be rather costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T18:59:48.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2013-03-14T20:21:39.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for the OBD2 pin-out on the vehicles end &lt;em&gt;(female)&lt;/em&gt; then it the interface type and pin population will vary from vehicle make to vehicle make. In order to tell you'll have to start by locating the OBD-II Connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm going to assume since you're asking about this you know where to find this connector&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector has &lt;strong&gt;metallic contacts&lt;/strong&gt; in &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of the pin-outs, with &lt;strong&gt;two rows of eight&lt;/strong&gt; pin-outs each. You will have to make a close inspection of this pin-out configuration and from here you should be able to verify the protocol being used by this vehicle. There are three communication protocols&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Identifying OBD-II Communication Protocols&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAE J1850 VPW&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (Variable Pulse Modulation): Used in most General Motors vehicles and light trucks. Look for metallic contacts populating pins #2, #4, #5 and #16. Pin-out #10 should be empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAE J1850 PWM&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (Pulse Width Modulation): Used in Ford vehicles. Check for metallic contacts in pin #2, #4, #5, #10 and #16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ISO 9141-2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Used in Chrysler vehicles and most imports. Populated pins should include #4, #5, #7, #15 and #16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;NOTE:&lt;/code&gt; Variations &lt;strong&gt;do exist among certain models&lt;/strong&gt; that are manufactured &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; branded as &lt;strong&gt;American&lt;/strong&gt;, but are actually derivatives of &lt;strong&gt;German&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Asian&lt;/strong&gt; imports, for example. In this case, the vehicle might follow the &lt;strong&gt;ISO 9141-2 standard&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've identified the Communication Protocol you will be able to determine much more about how the vehicle communicates to the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T20:21:39.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T20:21:51.050" Score="4" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacPherson_strut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MacPherson strut&lt;/a&gt; car, sometimes the springs of the front suspension will bind in their seats, and when turning the wheel sharply at low speed (or at a standstill) you end up with a kind of &quot;bung, bung, bung&quot; sound as the spring intermittently lets go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this issue on a couple of vehicles. I can be sure that the noise is coming from the struts (the springs, really), because of the very distinctive sound that comes from the ringing of the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New strut-top bearings generally help, but I find that the noise sometimes comes back rather quickly. What can be done to address this issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:55:55.293" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:59:40.357" Title="What can be done about noisy spring seats?" Tags="|noise|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5612" CreationDate="2013-03-14T23:12:42.547" Score="16" ViewCount="24351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often heard that accelerating harder makes for bad fuel efficiency, but have yet to be given a sound explanation of why.  Naturally this makes me question this advice.  Now obviously when you accelerate harder, more fuel is being pumped into your engine, but you'll sooner get to that cruising sweet spot where fuel consumption is a lot less.  So is the payoff worth it or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question needs some parameters, as obviously if you fly off at the lights only to stop hard in 100 metres, you'll certainly be facing some very bad fuel efficiency.  I'm more talking about lights at the beginning of a long open road, where how you accelerate has no impact on the eventual braking that will have to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the crux of this question has to do with power output per fuel input at varying engine RPMs.  I've been thinking about this as my car has very low torque at low RPM, but once it's around 3,000+ RPM it's great (old BMW 320i).  Might it be that my car's engine runs more efficiently at 3,000 RPM, and as such slightly harder acceleration than normal will improve fuel efficiency?  Or am I dreaming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T12:24:21.063" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T06:27:49.553" Title="Does accelerating faster worsen fuel efficiency?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|power|torque|rpm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5594" CreationDate="2013-03-14T23:26:39.997" Score="4" ViewCount="73709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first had this question while playing a racing game - it was a touring race with BMW 320i's, and I noticed that I could rev up to 8,500 RPM before shifting gears.  Now my car (an older 320i), certainly can't hit 8,500 RPM - it can do a bit over 6,500 RPM before I need to shift (the rev limiter kicks in shortly after that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect that one of the modifications would be adjusting/removing the rev limiter, but I also expect that if I did that to my engine as is, it would suffer.  So what engine modifications are needed to enable safe higher RPMs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to racing games again, in Forza Motorsport 2 there's modification which enables this - &quot;racing cams and valves&quot;.  Might this be one of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, by &quot;safe&quot;, I don't mean zero negative impact (I'd be surprised if an engine lasted just as long after such modifications), but perhaps minimal negative impact.  Sorry for the subjectivity of this, but hopefully we can get some useful answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS there really should be a &quot;modifications&quot; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T12:22:47.763" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T23:04:06.900" Title="What modifications need to be made to an engine to enable higher safe RPMs?" Tags="|engine|rpm|wear|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5574" CreationDate="2013-03-14T23:39:44.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why have extra engine power?  Well if 35HP is required to do 50 MPH and that's all you have, it will take a very long time to accelerate to that point - possibly several minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, people like the extra power for the sportiness of the car - quick acceleration when you want it, and not having to press the throttle down much to go up hills etc.  You'll find that the Camry will actually be using a very significant amount of the available HP.  I'd say at least 50% at times (e.g. accelerating up a hill with a full car), and depending on the driver, closer to 100% is not unheard of (e.g. overtaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the Camry more efficient?  People seem to be missing one of the key points - the Humvee is one metric tonne heavier (so much more rolling friction), and has the aerodynamics of a brick.  To put numbers to it, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia cites&lt;/a&gt; the coefficient of drag of a Hummer H2 as 0.57, and a Toyota Camry 2007 at 0.27.  So it's more than twice the drag coefficient, and that's excluding the larger cross-sectional area on Humvees.  And if you have a gunner up top, it would be even worse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you put the Humvee engine in the Camry, you would see a massive fuel consumption decrease compared to the original Humvee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T00:32:48.110" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T00:32:48.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5589" CreationDate="2013-03-15T00:02:58.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that if it was binding of the strut and it's seat causing the noise then the you would notice a few things in other characteristics of the ride. I say this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of car is this? &lt;em&gt;(year / make / model / engine)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How did you determine that the noise was coming in fact from the strut assemblies?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the rest of the front suspension checked for worn components?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If applicable have the grease-able components been greased at manufacturer's suggested intervals?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the front struts indicating signs of wear? &lt;em&gt;(excessive sway, &quot;chopped&quot; tires, excessive travel over bumps?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you/anyone replaced anything in the front end to attempt a fix? If so, what?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There just seems to be a little &lt;em&gt;too little&lt;/em&gt; information in the question to determine or give an educated guess as to what is/can be happening. There are countless amounts of from suspension setups aside from just the struts themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also&lt;/strong&gt;, mechanics that specialize in &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt; vehicle makes and mechanics that have access to databases containing diagnostic/repair bulletins for common problems. Then, more information is going to be needed for us to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T00:59:40.357" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:59:40.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5591" CreationDate="2013-03-15T00:33:16.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rev limiter would have to be removed. This would be involved in a &lt;strong&gt;custom&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;DME&lt;/code&gt;. With the limiter removed then you'd be able to blow it up if you wanted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To support the higher revs, the vehicle would need the engine internals worked on. Stronger camshaft(s), valves, valve springs. &lt;em&gt;(Head work)&lt;/em&gt;. Depending on the strength of the rotating assembly at the core of the engine, you could even be looking at crank/piston/rod work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'd have to start looking at the transmission. If it will be able to support the higher revs. What I mean by this is if the clutches, orbitals, front pump (if applicable), input/output shafts, will be able to withstand the rise in pressures and temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By the way, by &quot;safe&quot;, I don't mean zero negative impact (I'd be surprised if an engine lasted just as long after such modifications), but perhaps minimal negative impact. Sorry for the subjectivity of this, but hopefully we can get some useful answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NEVER&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the case. If you've ever noticed, mechanics and hobbyists that build track cars are usually working on them more than they are racing them or even driving them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Build it to blow it up, and then build it again&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The competitive aspect of racing and the learning that knowledge that you get from building to me is absolutely priceless. Anyone can play a game/pass a test. But, it's in the field where you learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T10:44:23.053" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T10:44:23.053" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2013-03-15T07:37:27.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes a specific amount of energy to accelerate a specific amount of mass to a specific speed. So just looking at those factors, you'd be right to assume that it matters little how quickly you accelerate said mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's not how the real world works. The problem here is that combustion engines and the many things we connect them to are astoundingly inefficient. There is a substantial amount of friction involved. In order to accelerate your car quickly, your engine Has to move faster. The faster a piston has to oscillate, the greater the force that the bearings are subjected to. The work required to pull air into and out of the cylinders through the valves is much greater at high RPMs, exponentially so. And the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, your car engine has to waste even more energy at high RPMs turning the alternator, the water pump, steering pump, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put all these factors together, it's quite obvious why your engine is more efficient at lower RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T17:09:10.073" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T17:09:10.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5591" CreationDate="2013-03-15T09:35:01.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 key factors to work on when uprating for higher revs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning a rod, cam or flywheel faster than it is rated for will result in it destroying itself, often spectacularly, as the stresses become too much. Moving linkages and pistons back and forth also takes a lot of energy - Kinetic energy = 1/2 m v squared, and it is that squared which causes the problem. What they do in formula 1 to enable higher speeds is reduce the mass of each part, but this requires very strong materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High pressures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel must be pumped faster, air needs to enter and exit the engine faster, the compression of the engine will typically be higher etc - so the pressure in pipes and cylinders will be higher. To cope with this, all these areas need to be made of higher strength materials, gaskets need to be more robust, pipes mustn't split etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are running everything faster, temperatures will be higher in all areas of the engine and exhaust. Using materials with a higher failure temperature point is essential. As with pressure, this includes pipes, gaskets etc., but also the types of metal used in the cylinder head, pistons themselves and the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T09:35:01.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-15T12:59:53.450" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a one year old Motorhome, the number plate lights have corroded beyond repair. I am waiting for the to be repaired under warranty. Does this mean technically my Motorhome off the road as I had already been informed one night that they were not working by a policeman?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2887" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T13:14:18.763" Title="Number plate lights not working" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5597" CreationDate="2013-03-15T13:14:18.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the law in your jurisdiction - in the UK, it is illegal to drive any vehicle with any non-functioning lights - although this doesn't seem to be enforced much, jusging by the number of people driving round with only one working headlamp...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've used the British term 'number plate' rather than the American 'licence plate', I'm guessing you are over here, and so yes, your motorhome is technically not roadworthy until it is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T13:14:18.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5601" CreationDate="2013-03-15T08:23:35.757" Score="13" ViewCount="41688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can some cars (mostly old Russian cars on YouTube) seemingly go through water while others can't? I'm talking about situations when the water level is at half the  height of the car, so the engine is under the water. What are the differences between engines that break under water and those that don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2892" OwnerDisplayName="Buksy" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-03-16T04:36:54.563" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T15:04:57.547" Title="Why can some cars go through water while others can't?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2013-03-15T08:53:38.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safe water level is generally defined by location of air intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user22017" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T08:53:38.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2013-03-15T11:05:31.063" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;driving through water could potentially do a couple of different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, if the water level is over the tail pipe, the engine rpm must be kept high in order to keep the exhaust pressure up, so that water does not go up the tail pipe and stall the engine. If this was to happen, it wouldn't likely do damage, but the car would have to be towed out of the water, and a modern car would likely throw a trouble code to the computer, causing the computer to have to be re-set. If you were able to drive through, then you didn't have this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the water level gets above the air intake while the engine is running, the engine could suck in water, and the engine could hydrolock, which means that water is sucked into the cylinders. Because water does not compress like air, water in the cylinders can cause severe damage that will require and engine rebuild or replacement. If water gets in the engine while the engine is stalled, the water will have to be removed before the engine is started or a hydrolock could occur. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine, and the water will be pumped out of the spark plug holes. If your vehicle hydrolocked, you would know about it, because it would make at least one very loud bang, and would not continue to run. Since most air cleaners are near the top of the engine compartment, in most cases, the water would have to be more than a foot deep to allow water into the air intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if the water gets higher than the vents on your crank case, transmission, or differential, you could get water in your engine, transmission or differential oil. This would allow the vehicle to continue to drive, but over time, it could damage the vehicle. To check if this is the case, check the oil in each of these locations. if the oil on the dipstick appears milky, then there is water in it, and it should be changed.&#xA;4 years ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="harish" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T11:05:31.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:49:41.183" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No car is &quot;waterproof&quot; since it's need air at some point to run correctly, but you can make it more &quot;water-friendly&quot;. My 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser have been modified to tolerate water crossing up to about mid-door. To do so you'll have to(non exhaustive list) : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise your air intake as much as you can, mostly by using a snorkel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise every breather (axle, transmission, transfer case) to avoid water mixing up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you do not have leak, both for the environment and so that water does not go through the other way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise all electronics modules, I do not have that on mine but some friends with Toyota FJ Cruiser have their electronics under the driver seats, which could short everything and disable the truck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then they are some technique that may come handy when crossing water, such as creating a small bow wave with a slow and constant speed, crossing slightly upstream, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T14:49:41.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5605" CreationDate="2013-03-15T16:07:41.950" Score="5" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into a new project, and one idea that was tossed around is to replace the motor on the truck with a FlexFuel model. I looked around and see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmperformanceparts.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gmperformanceparts website&lt;/a&gt;, but they don't have stock engines. I also saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newgmengines.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; which is almost dead on, except the newest block they list is an '07, I'm looking for something newer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'm aware this would require more work than just dropping the motor in, but remember this is a &lt;em&gt;project&lt;/em&gt;, so little problems along the way won't detract from the overall goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T17:08:52.437" Title="Is there a place where I can buy new stock GM Engines?" Tags="|engine|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2013-03-15T17:08:52.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can by an engine from the dealer. Call around the price can very dramatically from dealer to dealer. Some of the high volume (parts sales) dealers will sell over the counter for less than a normal dealer would pay for the engine from GM. One of the dealers in my area sells hundreds if not thousands of engines a year. It was cheaper for my dealer to buy it from them that to purchase from GM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salvage yards my be your best bet, because you will get a more complete engine and the other components you will need to make the switch. The flex fuel vehicles have more changes that just the engine, they use different fuel delivery components as well. The high ethanol content will destroy standard fuel line for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you're motivation is for switching, if it's for money or fuel savings make sure you really explore the differences and the costs before switching. If you're doing it because you think it's cool and you're not as concerned with the money savings then drive on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T17:08:52.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2013-03-15T17:33:10.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does accelerating faster worsen fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now obviously when you accelerate harder, more fuel is being pumped&#xA;  into your engine, but you'll sooner get to that cruising sweet spot&#xA;  where fuel consumption is a lot less. So is the payoff worth it or&#xA;  not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easily measured via the OBD II port.  For example, my Accessport gives me immediate readings on instantaneous fuel consumption.  The Automatic dongle + smart phone combination purports to give you information that's just as detailed (though without the capability of reprogramming your ECU).  As they say in their product tour: &quot;Rapid Acceleration - Stepping hard on the gas pedal decreases fuel efficiency and wastes money.&quot;  With a device like this, you'll be able to measure exactly how much money you're losing with rabbit starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerating requires more energy than steady state cruising, therefore requiring more fuel.  Accelerating quickly requires more energy than accelerating slowly.  There is a super-linear releationship between rate of acceleration and rate of fuel consumption (more fuel consumed per meter/second^2 at higher rates of of acceleration).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like a practical demonstration of how turtle acceleration can save fuel, I refer you to Jeremy Clarkson's demonstration in his &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Gear_%28series_4%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;epic drive from London to Edinburgh&lt;/a&gt; and back on one tank of fuel in a twin turbo V8 Audi (scroll down to episode 4 of season 4).  He describes in detail how to avoid the wasted fuel of acceleration.  Most importantly, he kept the revs under 1200 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are measurable quantities.  There's no fuel efficiency justification for rabbit starts at stop lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T20:21:44.977" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T20:21:44.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5609" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:07:56.480" Score="11" ViewCount="362038" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I drive without antifreeze in my car (no water / no antifreeze)? This is my main question. I've added some follow up questions that are specific to my situation but for the main question I just want to know in general what happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HISTORY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let's say someone thought that the low antifreeze light was the low windshield washer light and drove a 12 mile trip to work and home from work in the middle of winter for a month? What happens if they drive in the summer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the record, for me, I realize now that I was driving with low antifreeze except for maybe one or two trips (of about 40). I believe a few trips I ran completely out because the temperature shot up 10 to 20 degrees over the span of a mile. I pulled over as soon as I noticed this and could pull off the road or into a gas station and added coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to take it in to get fixed. The mechanics ran pressure tests on it and found the coolant leak in the water pump. They replaced it and it's running fine since then. However, the engine seems to knock / rock very loudly sometimes at start but eventually dies down but that may have already been happening. I don't know. Anyway, no leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I took it to one shop and I said that I had a radiator leak. They ran pressure tests and said the radiator and water pump were leaking. I took it to a second shop and they said that only the water pump was leaking. Is the first shop's pressure tester unreliable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="2727" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T01:26:24.587" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T18:46:00.557" Title="What happens if I drive without antifreeze in my car?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5495" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:11:57.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the &lt;strong&gt;water pump&lt;/strong&gt;.  Jim at Watson Automotive in Thetford VT replaced it ($400) and it's not stalled or flooded since.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the question I left out one clue that Jim used &amp;mdash; a belt was squeaking.  He found that was from a leak of radiator fluid from the water pump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim theorizes that low coolant caused portions of the engine to get too hot, so the temperature sensing computer thought it was very cold outside, and made the fuel-air mixture too rich (less air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moral of the story is that installing computers in cars significantly increases the intelligence of mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2822" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:11:57.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5607" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:24:36.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without water and without antifreeze or just without antifreeze? I'll assume that you mean without either, but there is a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really simple though. The engine will overheat, quickly, and the seals and gaskets will give out, letting fluids leak in and out of places they should or shouldn't be (like the radiator and water pump, for starters). Eventually, parts of the engine will stop working all together and depending on how long you let this go on for, the engine will need to be taken apart and repaired or it may just need to be melted down for scrap metal, to put it simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T01:46:36.797" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T01:46:36.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5607" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:49:41.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean with just water and no antifreeze, as long as the outside temperature does not drop below 0°C, nothing bad should happen. If the cooling system is otherwise in good shape, plain water should be sufficient to keep the engine cool. If the radiator is partially clogged, or the thermostat isn't opening all the way or is not opening until the temperature gets much higher, or if the water pump is not working at full strength, then having plain water (which boils at a lower temperature) may lead to overheating. You might also have an overheating problem in extremely hot climates. In any case, the engine temperature gauge on the dash &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; show you whether you have overheating; if the temperature is below the mid line, it's safe to keep driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand you mean with no fluid at all, it's &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; certainly impossible to drive the vehicle without major overheating and engine damage. If you have a really small 4 cylinder engine and the outdoor temperature is well below freezing, however, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to get by with just air cooling as long as you keep moving fast. I wouldn't try it unless you're prepared to rebuild or replace the engine, though. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:49:41.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2013-03-15T23:11:48.660" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said the crux of the issue has to do with getting every last amount of energy out of a unit of fuel. You can consider this your total fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerating your vehicle from rest to 60mph or 100km/h will require a fixed amount of energy based on the weight of the vehicle (excluding wind, friction and rolling resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to utilize your engine in the most efficient way to produce that amount of energy. For example you could just floor the accelerator and rapidly produce the energy required but there is no way for you to know whether that path is more efficient than building that energy over a longer period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know this you need to know your engine. Specifically you need to know your Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). The BSFC measures how much energy your engine produces per unit of fuel (usually one gram of fuel). Your engine will have different BSFC at different RPMs and Torque values. You want to run your engine where it has the lowest BSFC (lowest fuel consumption per unit of energy produced). So if you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Brake_specific_fuel_consumption.svg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BSFC chart&lt;/a&gt; I have linked you will see that for that engine its lowest BSFC value is 206 at about 2100-2200rpm at close to peak torque.This means that this engine runs most efficiently in that operating range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general engines run most efficiently close to their peak torque at wide open throttle and at the lowest RPM possible. This range will be different for every engine and vehicle because all engines are different and every vehicle has different parasitic loads. You could probably calculate it for your vehicle if you run the vehicle on a dynamometer to measure the power and then also monitor the fuel consumption and then do a division across the curve to see where the engine was most efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know at what operating conditions your vehicle is most efficient the difficulty then becomes running your engine in those conditions at all times during acceleration. This becomes difficult with a transmission because the RPM has to rise as your vehicle accelerates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a manual transmission what I would do with the above example curve would be to have the accelerator at wide open throttle from 1500-2500rpm and shift at 2500rpm for each gear. I am sure that it is possible to calculate the exact shift points for maximum efficiency but I am not willing to put that much effort into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an automatic transmission this is very difficult because if you try to run the engine at wide open throttle the automatic transmission will extend your shift point up to the high RPM range and you will get very bad BSFC and in turn efficiency. With an automatic transmission you have to accelerate much slower so that the transmission will shift at the appropriate points to keep your engine in an rpm where it can operate at its highest efficiency. Maybe pushing the accelerator at half throttle can achieve this but you would have to do it by feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion I would say the best way to accelerate is to accelerate as fast as possible in the lowest RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this explanation helped somewhat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_specific_fuel_consumption&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki Brake Specific Fuel Consumption&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T10:56:44.617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T10:56:44.617" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5591" CreationDate="2013-03-15T23:27:32.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most critical part for higher RPM's is the valvetrain. So you want better valve springs and retainers and a custom ground cam that is designed for the RPM you are trying to acheive. This is all to ensure that you don't encounter a situation where the valves cannot close fast enough and the piston head crashes into the valve. The higher the RPM the faster the valves have to close and the greater chance of a valve crash if the valve springs cannot close the valve quicker than the piston travels upwards. So having strong enough valve springs and a cam that will close valves at a safe time for the rpm is the most crucial thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising the RPM of an engine generally increases the peak HP of the engine so you need to make sure that other components in the engine and drivetrain can handle that added HP and stress. This is where upgraded rotating assemblys rods and pistons come in and also may require transmission and clutch components with better HP handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T23:27:32.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-15T20:00:46.240" Score="0" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in India.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a 2 wheeler named Honda Activa. Here are the specifications : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honda2wheelersindia.com/activa/specifications.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.honda2wheelersindia.com/activa/specifications.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;strong&gt;Shell Super Petrol&lt;/strong&gt;. Here are the details : &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shell.com/ind/products-services/on-the-road/fuels/unleaded-fe2-tpkg/overview.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shell.com/ind/products-services/on-the-road/fuels/unleaded-fe2-tpkg/overview.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people told me that these 2 are not compatible and I may even end up harming my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone go through the info provided in the links above and tell me if something is obviously not compatible here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2893" OwnerDisplayName="dharm0us" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T00:29:37.027" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T00:29:37.027" Title="Is it harmful to use Shell Super Petrol for my Honda Activa?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5614" CreationDate="2013-03-15T20:41:54.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please have a read of the other questions here on the qualities of petrols with different octane ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically higher octane fuels will not give your engine any real benefit, and are likely to just make your engine run less efficiently and cost more to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not do damage to your engine but I would advise using ordinary fuel anyway to save money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" OwnerDisplayName="Rory Alsop" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T20:41:54.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2013-03-16T02:30:46.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As cinelli stated this is definitely something related to the power steering pump. Check your power steering fluid level and maybe replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help you may need a new power steering pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T02:30:46.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5572" CreationDate="2013-03-16T02:49:24.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a hold of the wiring diagrams for your car you could probably figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the transmission gear wiring and lock and unlock likely go to the Smart Junction Control Box (SJB) if you can pull the wiring diagram for that (It will have ton of stuff though) you can trace where the gear indicator wiring comes from and whether it will be powered or grounded on the park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could then possibly set up a couple relays so that when that wire becomes either powered or grounded you ground the lead to tell the SJB to unlock / lock the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to in my car which did not have a trunk release button I simply wired one in by splicing my button to the SJB lead that controls the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours will be trickier to implement but a similar idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T02:49:24.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2013-03-16T02:58:32.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually synthetics tend to make engines run louder because they have better flow characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet that the oil filter was the cause of the issue, not all filters are made equal and fram makes some of the worst ones. I can't remember the article I read which took all the major filter brands and products and gave a cross section and breakdown but I'm pretty sure Bosch makes good quality filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see the breakdown of filter see&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oil Filters Revealed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T02:58:32.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2013-03-16T03:18:46.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just replace your mangled rear wiper arm assembly and get a high quality wiper blade that doesn't have springs but rather uses the wiper blade's natural curvature itself as a spring. I have found these types of blades hug to the curvature of glass much better than the crappy $5 multispring wiper blades dated back to 60s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T03:18:46.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5623" CreationDate="2013-03-16T03:24:39.670" Score="1" ViewCount="1537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1998 Subaru Outback with a broken driver's power window switch. The plastic switch just cracked and it will no longer stay in place; it falls out. If I hold it in place, it can still operate the switch mechanism below. I'm leaning towards just putting a big gob of JB Weld in there and sticking it back on, but before I do that I'd like to hear if anybody has other ideas or experience replacing these kind of switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole unit can be replaced for about $50-80, but I'm pretty sure it's a pain to take the door apart, and I'd rather not replace a perfectly good unit just because a piece of plastic cracked. Here's a photo I grabbed off eBay of the whole unit; it's the plastic knob on the driver's window switch that's broken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQs2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I've added the following two photos, which show where the switch is broken off and the broken part. The rest of the plastic is missing; it must have fallen off inside the panel or gotten lost elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmT6f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJDWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T19:45:31.617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T23:40:01.087" Title="Broken power window switch on 1998 Outback" Tags="|subaru|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5566" CreationDate="2013-03-16T03:57:35.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason a timing belt needs to be replaced is because as the rubber ages it starts to become brittle dry and crack and if it fails your valves will no longer be intime with your crank shaft causing your pistons to crash into the valves and destroy both the valves and possibly pistons and possibly much much more. Essentially it would be a bad day for your engine and your wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;timing chains do not have this issue as they are generally made out of a strong stainless steel or similar material which will last a very long time. It should last longer than you keep the vehicle in most cases. I wouldn't opt to replace the timing chain if that is what he had quoted you for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T03:57:35.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5621" CreationDate="2013-03-16T04:11:27.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you post a picture of how it has cracked? It is hard to propose how to repair without seeing the specific damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for taking the door apart. Taking an inner door panel off isn't a very difficult or time consuming task in most vehicles it may take 30minutes if you are new to it. It shouldn't be required usually power window switches can be accessed by popping off the armrest in the door in some way. It will be different for every vehicle but most dont require removing the door panel to access it maybe check the service manuals for your vehicle. You can usually find them online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for repairs. If you want quick and simple either use super glue or JB weld to glue the broken pieces back together or if you want a professional repair you could could secure the pieces together then bondo, sand, and repaint the piece. Again it all depends where the piece was cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T04:11:27.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5553" CreationDate="2013-03-16T04:30:24.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The click should be the latch solenoid firing so the signal should be fine I wouldn't think the FOB is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bet is that the solenoid does not have enough power to disengage the latch try spraying some penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) onto the latch claw and latch pin to see if that helps loosen it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any penetrating oil you could use a small amount of grease or maybe even a small amount of cooking oil for the time being just to see if the lubrication helps. If it doesn't you may need a new solenoid/actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T04:30:24.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2013-03-16T04:41:23.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another problem to consider is that many cars are buoyant. Many cars have a passenger compartment that is sealed well enough to cause it to float. You would have to consider this aside from everything else. Even if you didn't have any problems with intakes, exhausts, electronics, and seals, you would still be in trouble if you got your car into a river and then your wheels couldn't touch the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why most humvees allow water into the passenger compartment easily, so that the truck will remain on the bottom of the body of water and the tires will have traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T04:41:23.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5566" CreationDate="2013-03-16T07:46:16.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, from the sound of it you have a knowledgable and trustworthy mechanic, and you should keep him around. Even that price seems low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T07:46:16.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18965" CreationDate="2013-03-16T16:01:18.343" Score="4" ViewCount="9497" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Nissan Titan makes an odd sound, like a grinder, mostly when travelling steady at 35, 40 or 45 miles per hour. Even 1-2 mile per hour difference will cause the noise to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise will go away if I accelerate slightly or slow down by letting off the gas. I've noticed that it will also make the same sound around 20 miles an hour, sometimes when turning, sometimes not. It will not make the sounds during steady acceleration passing through 45 miles an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be a wheel bearing, or possibly the fuel pump? It's a difficult sound to locate whether I'm a passenger or driving, as I have a custom exhaust that's rather loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2898" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:51:18.077" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T02:56:32.237" Title="2006 Nissan Titan makes odd sound, but only at certain speeds" Tags="|nissan|truck|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2013-03-16T18:13:52.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheel bearing was my first thought but it should get louder at higher speeds and remain during accel and decel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;possibly some issue with the torque converter not locking or slipping at certain speeds? Does it only happen in the highest gear of the transmission? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the turning at low speed leads me to think power steering pump. The sound should change with engine rpm. Try revving the engine at different speeds in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T18:13:52.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2013-03-17T05:01:07.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that something is just rattling.. I say this because if it was an issue of possibly a pulley or a wheel bearing or anything at all for that matter. Then the noise would be more consistent. It isn't too often where you have a vehicle that &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; has an issue in that tight of a situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;mostly when traveling steady at 35, 40 or 45 miles per hour. Even 1-2 mile per hour difference will cause the noise to stop.&#xA;  The noise will go away if I accelerate slightly or slow down by letting off the gas. I've noticed that it will also make the same sound around 20 miles an hour,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to believe that it's an issue of something vibrating. At a &lt;strong&gt;stead&lt;/strong&gt; 35 to 45 miles per hour the engine should be I'd say about 2500rpm on the highway. Around the same rpm that it would be at when coasting 20 miles per hour. A slight increase in speed also is directly related to a slight increase in RPM, and the noise is gone. Turning, (lets build a scenario of you turning right at a read light) you touch the gas slightly and turn. Most likely hitting right around that 2300-2500rpm  mark to get the noise to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you're in the vehicle and you hear the noise take note to where in the RPM range the motor is at at the given time. Then when you get back to your parking spot try to replicate the noise while stopped. If you cannot get it to happen while stopped then perform the following test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fully engage the parking brake, place the vehicle in drive, and place your left food on the brake pedal. Then with your right foot start to bring the RPM level up &lt;em&gt;(use common sense here, don't just put a brick on the gas pedal because you'll end up slamming into whatever it is in front of you)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the second method if the first one fails will ensure that all the components are engaged and being torqued as if you were driving the vehicle down the road. You'll feel the entire car lurch up &lt;em&gt;(resembling a cat ready to pounce)&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the noise to reoccur at will then you can have someone assist you in pinpointing it's location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T05:01:07.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5688" CreationDate="2013-03-17T08:22:15.377" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am contemplating a CNG conversion on a new MAZDA5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you recommend a parts catalog that has CNG conversion kits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics: my break-even point is $10,000, based on price difference of 3.80-2.14 per gallon of fuel, and expected life of vehicle at 150,000, 25 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="807" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:43:39.900" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T15:18:29.067" Title="What would it take to perform a CNG conversion" Tags="|fuel-system|conversion|cng|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-17T16:50:35.513" Score="1" ViewCount="12085" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.7 CDTI, Astra, 25000 miles, Car makes squeaking noise for 1-5 seconds straight after start, depending on the temperature it was sat overnight in the cold which is below freezing temperature and then noise is completely gone. Took to garage for yearly service, they changed the glow plug and left it overnight to see the problem occures, the next morning(the weather was mild) it was completely OK. Now after few weeks the problem is back(the weather has been cold). I'm completely novice when it comes to engine anatomy. Still I suspect, its has to do with the temperature. Help please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2901" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T19:54:58.980" Title="Cold start, squeaking noise last for few seconds and its gone" Tags="|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5631" CreationDate="2013-03-18T12:51:50.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with R.  I believe it's probably a slipping belt.  Some cars are notorious for that if the exact OEM belt isn't used.  My Mitsubishi is one of those.  Off the shelf (even high end, &quot;guaranteed not to slip&quot; type) belts from parts stores like to slip and squeal even when tightened to spec.  OEM works fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I did once have a very similar squealing sound on start and it was the engine oil pump starting to fail.  A few months later it seized up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T12:51:50.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2013-03-18T23:33:43.517" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changed the EGR valve and the light still came back on after 18 miles.  Did some research and changed modulator valve for a mere $20.00 more and the check engine light has disappeared.  My recommendation  is to change both to solve your check engine light problem.  this light had been on for two years and i finally solved the problem for $75.00 total and was able to do the work myself.  The code for the above is 401 egr valve, etc.  Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2906" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T23:33:43.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5607" CreationDate="2013-03-19T01:07:43.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're fine but you need to get your leak fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments on the original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oh! I've been checking the overflow tank! :P I remember that being&#xA;  empty once. I'll have to check the radiator the next time the light&#xA;  goes on. To answer your question when I would fill it up it was never&#xA;  more than one $10 container from the gas station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a slow leak of coolant from the system but not one that is terminal.  There are two situations where this would really worry me (and did when I was driving a Mustang with a slow radiator leak):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't bother to mix the coolant properly and had a period of serious cold weather without a lot of driving, giving the coolant a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Measuring_the_freeze_point&quot;&gt;chance to freeze in the system&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;em&gt;In fairness, I was young, dumb, poor, engaged and in graduate school.  None of those are conducive to proper maintenance.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the weather got really warm and I was driving around at slow speeds, not letting the radiator get a chance to do its job.  That situation is a prime candidate for overheating which will progress to the point of destruction (as described by @hillsons).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, I strongly recommend that you don't look for a coolant leak using your bare hand around a hot engine.  That's an excellent way to get a terrible steam burn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, try wrapping a white paper towel around a wooden dowel.  If the paper towel starts getting wet / turning green, you found the vicinity of the leak.  If the dowel gets cut in half, the leak is really bad....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T01:07:43.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5631" CreationDate="2013-03-19T19:54:58.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slipping belt like the others have said, or possibly a squeaky pulley bearing. I have the latter on my '12 Focus. It only occurs at just the right humidity and temperature, so the shop has never been able to reproduce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T19:54:58.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-19T20:28:15.267" Score="7" ViewCount="99928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same as the title. I have filled twice, different stations, both fill to just over 3/4 and stop. I am not sure if this is the gauge or something with whatever magic tells the pump to stop. Is there any simple troubleshooting I can perform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T00:12:09.797" Title="Why does my gas not fill all the way?" Tags="|fuel-system|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-19T23:14:03.523" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;97 pontiac grand am se v6, a while ago my car did not start, I guess it was the ignition switch. So it got repaired but then the other day it wouldn't start. And it would not shift out of park at all, but when I went to take it to the same shop everything worked but I took it in anyway. When I got it back it ran fine for a day, then my radio, wippers, defroster and dome lights would not work so I checked the fuses and replaced one and it started and everything works even without the key. Now its having trouble starting it starts in about 1 in 30 trys. Can anybody help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T02:10:53.980" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T05:15:49.417" Title="Car having trouble starting but everthing else works even without key" Tags="|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2013-03-20T02:24:19.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rest assured that gas pumps don't use magic to stop. When gasoline reaches the top of your tank all the way to the end of the pump nozzle, it covers a valve within the pump nozzel that shuts off the pump mechanically. So in all likelihood, gasoline has filled your tank by the time it trips the pump. The chances that both the gas stations you visited have faulty pumps seems less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, your fuel gauge is giving you a bad reading. It could be the gauge or it could be the sending unit in the tank itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T02:24:19.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-20T05:12:57.077" Score="6" ViewCount="12245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Kawasaki W800. On cold mornings it is difficult to start - it turns over quite a few times before it catches. This is compared to my old carburettor bike which started instantly with the choke on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know if this is a bad thing or why it is occurring? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T09:10:12.897" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:44:51.103" Title="Motorcycle with EFI not starting well" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|fuel-injection|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2013-03-20T09:12:26.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does depend on the car. As Hillsons says, it might be a faulty gauge or sender, but it might also be the nature of the filler neck, as some designs don't flow well, resulting in the neck filling with fuel before the tank has - I had a car recently where you had to fill it at half-speed otherwise the pump would be constantly clicking off. Others I've seen where you have to fill it until it clicks, wait a couple of seconds for it to drain down, then top it up, often two or three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to look up the tank capacity of the car, and compare that with the amount you are putting in to work out if it is actually full (in which case the gauge is mis-reading), or if you can really only fill it 3/4 of the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T09:12:26.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2013-03-20T15:46:25.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem with one of my vehicles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It usually has to do with the fillhose vent tube/breather tube being blocked or not working properly. This inhibits air pressure from being released from the tank as you are filling it. This will cause air to travel backwards through the fill tube and cause the pump to shut off as it senses fuel bubbling back up the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just filled the car at half fill speed and it worked. But if you want to fix it your are going to want to pull the breather tube off the gas tank and clean it out. Sometimes insects can get in it and clog it up. Depending on your vehicle it may be an easy fix. The breather tube usually runs right beside/ontop of the fill tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you get it resolved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:46:25.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2013-03-20T15:52:30.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a charging system problem or a parasitic drain on the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the parasitic drain by following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. If none found you may need a new alternator/battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:52:30.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5643" CreationDate="2013-03-20T16:04:10.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually cold start issues come from battery not having adequate charge. Try throwing a battery charger on it overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this bike has manufacturer issues with FI (Fuel Injection) lights coming on? Has your's come on? You may need to have the throttle body and O2 sensors checked as well. If your intake is being leaned out or it is not reading air charge properly you might not get proper ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also maybe check your plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T16:04:10.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5643" CreationDate="2013-03-20T21:10:20.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a new problem I would look for a vacum leak. Typically cold start idle issues are the result of a lean mixture. Most fuel injected engines utilize a cold start circuit inorder to maintain idle when the engine is cold. This circuit allows for a rich mixture while cold, think of it as a computer controlled choke. Rather than restricting air like a conventioal choke it increases the fuel. Since this is an air cooled motor the normal coolant sensor isn't avaiable. I am only guessing, but I would assume the oil temperature is used to determine if the engine is warm. Another possibility is leaking injectors. They may not hold pressure overnight. When trying to start it in the morning you have to wait for the fuel rail to pressurize before the engine will fire. Try turning the ignition key to &quot;on&quot; for 5 or 10 seconds before you try a cold start. The fuel pump should run long enough to pressurize the fuel rail if this is what is keeping it from starting. As motorcycles have become more complicated diagnosing problems has also become more complicated. You may need a scan tool to get to the bottom of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T21:10:20.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2013-03-20T21:20:39.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start looking at the steering column wiring. I think you have a pinched,cut, chafed etc wire. The fact that you blew a fuse and the accessories work without the key leads me to believe you have power being applied when it shouldn't be and not being applied when it should be. Be careful about random probing in the column as you can inadvertantly discharge the airbag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T21:20:39.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5658" CreationDate="2013-03-20T21:56:50.813" Score="1" ViewCount="6617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into buying an Audi A5 and from what i read on the Audi website and online you can only have the built in sat nav or the sd card slot but you cannot have the built in sat nav and the sd card slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so my question is can you purchase an sd card with all the sat nav information so you can have a sat nav but then use another sd card for music or other uses if you wish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T07:40:25.963" Title="Audi A5 sat nav through SD card" Tags="|audio|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-21T10:27:38.330" Score="4" ViewCount="3617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the last 12 months I have noticed that as I pull away and put my foot down a little more, there is often a bit more of a cloud of smoke left behind.  Its not thick smoke but still it seems like much more than it was before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what I could look at to try and resolve the issue?  Or is this just a normal thing for a diesel and I have become more aware of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2914" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T22:48:21.530" Title="VW Golf 2.0 SDI (2005) - smokey when pulling away" Tags="|vw|exhaust|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5651" CreationDate="2013-03-21T13:43:37.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the smoke you're seeing isn't indicative of any major problem. Some of the VW diesel engines have a tendency to build up unburned fuel and other deposits on the exhaust side of the engine if they're driven for short trips and driven too gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have direct experience with the SDI engine, but this is a real problem for the TDI engines, and can lead to turbo issues on the TDI when the turbo eventually becomes too sooted up (especially on the variable-vane geometry turbo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention is relatively simple. Try to push the engine hard at least once per trip to burn off these deposits. After the engine has warmed to operating temperature, if you have a clear stretch of road in front of you, accelerate hard (floor the accelerator) in second or third gear all the way up to near redline. You need both full-throttle and high RPM to generate the heat to do the job. High RPM by itself won't do it, and full-throttle at low RPM won't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the car smokes less after this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T13:43:37.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-21T17:53:03.617" Score="5" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car died while I was driving it, but I can put the battery on a charger (or from another car, with jumper cables) and get it running albeit for a short period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a multimeter on the batter and I'm getting 12.5v while the car is off or running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;replaced the alternator, still only getting 12.5v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm checking at the posts, at the cables going onto the posts, and even at the alternator (although the alternator shows 0, when off) itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm stumped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T21:03:27.950" Title="93 Nissan Sentra SE-R, replaced alternator voltage still low" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5655" CreationDate="2013-03-21T18:09:56.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 0 volts at the alternator output terminal when the vehicle is off then you most likely have a blow fusible link. You could also have a broken wire. You should have battery voltage at the output terminal even with the car off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T18:09:56.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-03-21T19:21:30.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I just carry around a small starter battery kit in case of battery failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-XP400-Jump-Starter/15140202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-XP400-Jump-Starter/15140202&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T19:21:30.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5650" CreationDate="2013-03-22T07:40:25.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some notes before we get started to help you see the differences in option packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Audi A5&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Base&lt;/strong&gt; does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; come standard with iPod &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; Bluetooth connectivity, but those are easy enough to add as standalone options. The absence of a &lt;code&gt;USB port&lt;/code&gt; is much more troubling (to me at least). Instead of spending more money on inter-grading a &lt;code&gt;USB port&lt;/code&gt; into the system, you have the option of loading mp3s &lt;em&gt;(or other music files you use)&lt;/em&gt; onto a flash drive and forget about the &lt;code&gt;USB port&lt;/code&gt; that you didn't get. Once you have placed your music onto an &lt;code&gt;SD card&lt;/code&gt; you could use the &lt;code&gt;A5's standard SD slot&lt;/code&gt;. However, a &lt;code&gt;USB&lt;/code&gt; port can provide superior connections for portable mp3 players; the standard auxiliary jack is pretty basic technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Premium&lt;/strong&gt; comes with 18-inch alloy wheels, foglamps, a panoramic sunroof (coupe only), a power-operated vinyl roof (Cabriolet only), leather upholstery, single-zone automatic climate control, power front seats with driver lumbar adjustment, a tilt-telescopic steering wheel, the Multi-Media Interface system with a dash-mounted control knob and a ten-speaker audio system with an auxiliary input, an &lt;code&gt;SD card reader and satellite radio&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Prestige&lt;/strong&gt;, or, the icing on the cake, goes over-the-top &lt;strong&gt;adding&lt;/strong&gt; adaptive xenon headlamps that include LED running lights, a blind-spot warning system, keyless entry with push-button ignition, MMI Plus with navigation and a console-mounted joystick knob and a 14-speaker, 505-watt Bang &amp;amp; Olufsen audio system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the above you can see that the A5 &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; in fact ship with &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; options. The navigation is now held in a 10gb hard drive, no more &lt;code&gt;DVD-based&lt;/code&gt; navigation units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up purchasing a slightly older model that comes with a &lt;code&gt;DVD-based&lt;/code&gt; navigation. Then I would suggest copying the &lt;code&gt;CD&lt;/code&gt; onto an &lt;code&gt;SD card&lt;/code&gt; and using &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; SD card slots provided. This will dramatically increase map load times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;Note:&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; According to the vehicle's user-manual it will advise that you use &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; an &lt;code&gt;8GB SD-card&lt;/code&gt;, but &lt;code&gt;MY2011&lt;/code&gt; vehicle maps will need one twice the size (16GB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;Note:&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Also, you cannot have your music and your maps on one &lt;code&gt;SD-card&lt;/code&gt;, you will need two separate cards if you want to do both. But, that's why they provide two slots. Just make sure to label them so you don't end up overwriting your navigation maps with music. Also, don't get rid of the &lt;code&gt;DVD&lt;/code&gt; just in case you run you accidentally format it to put music on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T07:40:25.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4252" CreationDate="2013-03-22T08:29:06.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;code&gt;heavy misfire&lt;/code&gt; is indicated by a &lt;em&gt;blinking&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;Check Engine&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Service Engine Soon&lt;/code&gt; light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Few days ago, AC went offline and the misfire vanished&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that there was a fuse issue involving the A/C Compressor. I'm going to put my finger on one of the following scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;A/C Compressor&lt;/code&gt; is binding or damaged internally. I am not going to say it's seized because if that were the case it would not rotate at all, and the belt would burn and break. And you would know it seized. The compressor can easily be checked if you have the tools and capability to remove the &lt;code&gt;A/C belt&lt;/code&gt; yourself and spin the compressor by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is something &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; than &lt;code&gt;R-134a&lt;/code&gt; in the &lt;code&gt;A/C system&lt;/code&gt; that the compressor is having a difficult time  with. I've seen a lot of absolutely mind-boggling fluids/gasses pumped into an &lt;code&gt;A/C system&lt;/code&gt;. I would have the system professionally evacuated and you should also make sure that when they vacuum the system that they perform it for full time. A lot of shops tend to &quot;fast forward&quot; through the process leaving moisture in the system. If you go to a shop that you've never been to before, then it might be a good idea to stick around during the process. You might even learn a thing or two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The matter of the &lt;code&gt;A/C Compressor&lt;/code&gt; blowing a fuse would happen with either of these scenarios. The compressor would demand more power in order to perform and end up overloading the circuit or causing the compressor to overheat. Either case would blow the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T08:29:06.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5655" CreationDate="2013-03-22T14:06:19.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some vehicles ( Dodge diesel at least and maybe more) the alternator output is regulated by the ECM (engine control module). It looks at several signals to adjust the output,voltage,load,etc. If you don't find an open wire as @Larry has suggested, have the alternator checked. Most parts stores will check them for free. There is always the chance you got a defective unit. If it tests ok you will need a wiring diagram to start tracing the circuit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T14:06:19.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-22T14:40:35.810" Score="3" ViewCount="39372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for taking the time to read this.  Last year, I installed a car stereo head unit in my car.  I did the installation myself rather than having it done professionally.  I am no expert in that arena, but it did not seem too difficult.  I used a wiring harness adapter to hook it up.  I really don't think I crossed any wires when connecting to the adapter, but it is a possibility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After perfect functioning of this stereo for six months, I am now experiencing intermittent flickering of the car stereo LED lights while I drive.  Often times, it seems as if the lights dim when I step on the gas, and return to standard brightness when I let off of the accelerator.  Sometimes it just seems random.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody else experienced this?  I realize it may be hard to diagnose this problem with the given information, but any starting points to investigate would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2924" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-02-21T04:22:29.693" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T07:16:49.990" Title="Car stereo lights dim/flicker" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5470" CreationDate="2013-03-22T14:52:03.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specs are located on the face of the rotor. In order to see them you will be required to remove one of the front or rear wheels. I managed to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blauparts.com/assets/audi_vw_brake_rotor_part_number.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; showing the location of the markings. The number that's zoomed is the part number of the actual rotor. Using the part number to order the part will make it certain that you get the correct part from the guy behind the counter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they cannot cross reference the part number because they're systems don't support factory part numbers then a quick call to the dealership parts department giving them the part number, and asking them the specs on the rotor will get the Autozone parts guy the information he needs to &lt;em&gt;hopefully&lt;/em&gt; get you the correct part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on measuring the rotor to check the thickness, this is done with a micrometer and the measurement is taken in millimeters. After the part number there will be a number labeled &lt;code&gt;Min. #mm&lt;/code&gt; this is the minimum thickness allowed for the rotor. There will also be a tolerance number (if not .3 is what I use when I cannot find the spec) and a Max.. The tolerance is used like so: &lt;code&gt;if [ (Actual + Tol) &amp;lt;= Min ] ; then ReplaceRotor&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-03-26T21:04:38.173" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T21:04:38.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2013-03-22T15:35:22.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After they've been sitting for a extended amount of time, the floats in the carburetors tend to stick &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; if the tank isn't cleaned properly before filling it'll for the first time after a long off season it could allow some debris to get into one of the jets causing it to not take fuel (become clogged). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In turn, causing the fuel to backup and fill up the air-box. If this is the case the carburetor will have to removed, disassembled and cleaned, replacing all the gaskets as you go. When you put the bike back together you might want to think of investing in an inline fuel filter to prevent this issue from reoccurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not losing fuel from the carburetor then there are rubber seals inside the gas tank that spend their entire lives covered in fuel. Over time these seals will shrink and crack and dry out. Especially if the tank is ran low a lot and if it sits for an extended period of time without any fuel in it. The fuel keeps the rubber lubricated. They sell rebuild kits for the tanks and also for the carburetors. You should be looking into getting yourself one of these kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking for a link but couldn't find anything that I felt worthy enough to give. Google is your best friend on finding these parts. Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T15:35:22.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5150" CreationDate="2013-03-22T18:53:06.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only impact that could possibly bring on a warped rotor is if the wheel studs were over torqued. In order to prove it you could go back to the tire shop and ask them politely to grab a torque wrench and set it to 85ftlbs (i believe this is roughly the spec for the Audi wheels). Once he grabbed the tool and placed it on the wheel stud and attempted to tighten the stud it would click. A bit more effort and the lug should turn. If the lug is impossible to move unless you put some real effort into it after the &quot;click&quot; from the torque wrench is heard. Then this would indicate that the wheel is over torqued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanics, especially flat rate mechanics, tend to rush drops since their pay is directly related to amount of work that they get out the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to do this and show the wheel studs were in fact over torqued. You could bring Audi Documentation to them stating that if wheels are over tightened it will cause the rotors to warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other cause could be that the wheel was left loose. But you would have suspension type noises in the front end with this and a rather loose feel to the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T18:53:06.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2013-03-22T20:05:00.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced the same first set of symptoms due to an aftermarket stereo installed in my car by the previous owner.  One of the wires came loose and was shorting out against the metal in the center console.  The circuit was fused, but it had a slow-blow fuse and eventually on a long drive (after a couple weeks of weird dimming lights and loss of power) the fuse melted (along with portions of the wiring harness that may already have been melting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd inspect the wiring to make sure nothing is chafing and shorting out in a similar manner.  It took me a couple months to repair all the damaged wiring in my car, I hope you're not having the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T20:05:00.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-23T05:43:49.273" Score="4" ViewCount="20601" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I did a custom projector retrofit for my jeep.  I really love the technology and it makes driving in the dark much easier and safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the parts for the projector was not to bad, but I have had a really hard time finding a good angle for my lights that gives me good throw without blinding other drivers.  I have tried everything from completely flat, to probably about 10 degrees from horizontal so I cannot really see that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some recommended angle for projector headlights that I should adjust mine to?  Just now I readjusted them to about 1.5 degrees from horizontal (that's from very rough measurements taken in my garage).  Is 1.5 degrees a good angle or should I point them down more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T17:04:42.993" Title="What angle should my projector headlights be at?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2013-03-23T08:25:39.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to aim projector lamps I use the same procedure with all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;AIMING PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Align your car dead center in your driveway....the front and back of your car need to be perfectly aligned in the center..&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull your car up to the garage door, as close as you can get without actually hitting the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put a piece of tape where the headlight beams hit the garage door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This should only be small dot of light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull you car back about twenty five feet or so. When backing the vehicle up, it is vital that you go in a straight line or else the beam will be swayed and your end result, not what you were looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With tape Place a &lt;code&gt;vertical&lt;/code&gt; line that intersects each piece of tape that you put on the garage where your headlight beams hit. I like to use a  yardstick or a straight edge to make it perpendicular to the driveway. This line will be used to reference the angle of the lights &lt;code&gt;right&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;left&lt;/code&gt;. This adjustment is just as important as the &lt;code&gt;height&lt;/code&gt; of the beam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using the tape again, now place a &lt;code&gt;horizontal line&lt;/code&gt; along the garage where the beams hit. They should both be the same height from the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using more tape now place a horizontal line 2.1&quot; lower than the tape you just placed on the garage door&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next you will work on the lights individually. Block the beam from on side using a thick towel or just unplug it. And turn the lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with the &lt;code&gt;Drivers Side UP/Down&lt;/code&gt;: First bring the lower step of the cutoff to just below the lower of the two tape lines. This will set you at 2.1&quot; lower than your headlight. DOT Specifications tolerance is 2.1&quot; to 2.5&quot; drop over 25'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now move to the &lt;code&gt;Drivers Side Right/Left&lt;/code&gt;: The Vertical line on the drivers side of the garage should intersect the middle of the slant on the cutoff. This will take some patience but you'll get it. Just keep adjusting until you get it. Be aware that performing any &lt;code&gt;Right/Left&lt;/code&gt; adjustments may in turn effect the &lt;code&gt;Up/Down&lt;/code&gt;. If this is the case go back and keep everything set correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to move to the other side. Cover the Drivers side headlight with a thick towel and repeat the &lt;code&gt;UP/Down&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Left/Right&lt;/code&gt; procedure from the previous steps. Use the vertical line on the passenger side of the garage for intersecting the slant in the cutoff on the passenger side headlight beam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this method takes a bit of patience but once it's done, you'll be very pleased with the results. Also, all the other drivers on the road will be very pleased with the results. And, when people are in the vehicle it will look very professional as if it came from the factory that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. You might want to print this out and take it with you while you perform the alignment on the lights. I keep these instructions in the tool box for reference still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original source for these instructions can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.clubrsx.com/showpost.php?p=12844727&amp;amp;postcount=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-03-23T17:04:42.993" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T17:04:42.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-23T12:01:53.590" Score="5" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 2 days ago, and when I start it there is a loud squeak that lasts maybe 15 seconds. Unfortunately I bought the car 'as is'. Will it most likely be a belt, and if so, how much would it cost me for the belt itself and how much work is involved? This totally sucks but I guess that's the reality of buying a car 'as is'. Then yesterday, the car would not start - it took 4 tries and I had to press on the gas. Its been fine since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2927" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T10:44:26.200" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T01:13:42.727" Title="Oldsmobile Alero squeaking when started" Tags="|troubleshooting|noise|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-23T22:09:51.183" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 and have 16 GMC stock rims but was given a set BF Good rich all terrain 315/70R17 tires in almost perfect shape.  Would like to buy 17 rims for them.  How do I make sure I buy the correct rim? &#xA;My rims right now are 16X7,  Bolt pattern is 6 X 139.7 M and Offset is 31. For the new tire, do i buy a 17 X 7.5?  Is there something on the tire I can look for that will tell me the with of the rim?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2928" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T22:38:22.073" Title="Rims for my tires?" Tags="|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5670" CreationDate="2013-03-23T22:38:22.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;315/70/17 tires will fit on a rim between 8.5in and 10in. These are the recommended widths for sizes. So no, a 17x7.5in wheel would not work. You could squeeze the tire onto a 8in rim and if you wanted that &quot;bubbled out&quot; look. You &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to even get away with getting them to fit on a little wider of a wheel (10.5/11in) as well but I wouldn't recommend this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.americastire.com/dtcs/findWheelsBySize.do?bp=6-139.7%2a6-5.5&amp;amp;sortBy=prca&amp;amp;fqs=true&amp;amp;wd=17&amp;amp;rw=&amp;amp;rc=CALINT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a list of wheels that are 17in and the same bolt pattern as your truck. Just look at the options of rims between 8.5in and 10in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remaining details and if you'll need spacers or not depends on if the truck is lifted or not, what kind of look you are going for. What you'll be doing with the truck (off-road/cruising). You could consult with the guys at americastire.com They're customer support is phenomenal. And the guys are extremely knowledgeable on their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T22:38:22.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5673" CreationDate="2013-03-24T05:54:24.690" Score="4" ViewCount="4839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2010 used Toyota Prius from local dealer in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jordan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jordan&lt;/a&gt;, the dealer claims this edition imported from Germany (even the user manuals are in Dutch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wired part unlike the USA/Japan editions I have no place for a spare tire in the back trunk which at the first I thought the spare tire is stolen but after I browsed the Dutch manual (looking for images only; I don't speak the language) it seems that there are some editions where Toyota does not provide a spare tire but rather supply a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://accessories.toyota.ie/index.php/catalogue/detail/tyre-repair-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tyre repair kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news The Air Compressor (the kit’s hose) is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to get in touch with Toyota Spare Parts Centre to buy a new Air Compressor but they don't have it in stock and they asked me if I can get the Part number of the Air Compressor ( I know they're somehow lousy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me to get the item part number, or at least if I can get it the OEM online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much Appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="541" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:39:08.833" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:50:00.830" Title="Toyota Prius 2010 Has No Spare Tire" Tags="|toyota|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5672" CreationDate="2013-03-24T06:15:08.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealership is going to tell you that this kit is going to have to be ordered complete. They usually do not allow ordering of only a single part of the kit. I handle these situations by calling the dealership and asking to speak to the Sales Manager. The moment you get them involved he will jump on the salesman's back. Since a big part of any salesman is repeat business. And if the salesman is lagging on getting back in touch with you since he already got his commission check. Then give the issue a little push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best not to involve any company or suppliers outside of the actual dealership that you handled the purchase of the vehicle. Unless you have to. And if it came to that then you should call Toyota Headquarters and really push the issue. Since worst case scenario you'd be stuck on the side of the road with your hands in your pockets since the &lt;em&gt;dealership&lt;/em&gt; that sold you the vehicle refused to supply all the parts needed in case of an emergency. The last place anyone wants to be is sitting in their car late at night on the side of the highway with other vehicles passing by at 60+mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to make sure to put an emphasis on the safety concern. Hope I did a good job at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time I did manage to stumble upon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-12V-AIR-PUMP-TYRE-INFLATOR-COMPRESSOR-250-PSI-TOYOTA-PRIUS-HATCHBACK-/130672748828?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&amp;amp;hash=item1e6cb3e91c&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; I'm not sure if your compressor is the same one or not since this car is an imported from Germany. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership should have supplied you with the proper English documentation. &lt;strong&gt;What if something happens that you need to reference the manual? Or if a light illuminates on the cluster that you don't recognize and it ends up being a &quot;&quot;low oil&quot;&quot; light or &lt;code&gt;&quot;low coolant&quot;&lt;/code&gt; light and you end up stranded or even worse, damaging the vehicle when it could have been avoided?!&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(This is just an extreme example)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also believe it's against the rules for a dealership to sell a vehicle without the spare kits complete (not 100% sure on that). But I do know for a fact that every vehicle sold, if it is sold &lt;code&gt;as is&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;certified&lt;/code&gt; it still must go through an inspection from a &quot;certified&quot; technician and that checklist involves checking to ensure that all the components in the spare kit are there and work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T06:15:08.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5675" CreationDate="2013-03-24T11:19:57.613" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas pedal (accelerator) on my car developed an issue where it only works if I press it some 80% of the way down. That leaves very little room for controlling the acceleration and as a consequence the drive has become a bit jerky--the pedal will suddenly kick in when pressed most of the way down and only then start accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2930" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T18:30:11.000" Title="gas pedal only works when really depressed" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5674" CreationDate="2013-03-24T13:11:53.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends a wee bit on whether it is a cable throttle linkage or fly-by-wire. It being a Jeep, I'm assuming cable here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing I would check when looking at throttle response is that the throttle cable has no slack in it. If it is slack, the first pedal movement will just take up that slack. As @BobCross commented, this will also lead to your top acceleration being way down on the expected acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, with the bonnet (hood) open, I'd manually move the throttle actuator. If it moves quite far before any change in revs then it may need adjusting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that I'd want to check airflow and the fuel path into the engine, as blockages here (or a faulty fuel pump) could cause symptoms similar to this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T18:30:11.000" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T18:30:11.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-25T01:44:06.673" Score="5" ViewCount="8056" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rims on my 92 Civic are really ugly (discolored/rusted) and I'm wondering how to best make them look nicer without a lot of work or replacing them, especially since I'm about to get the tires replaced. Is painting the best option or can I clean them with rust remover of some sort? If painting, can I do it while the old tires are still on the rims, and is there any special paint I should use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ka42b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; And the same wheel after applying oxalic acid and some light scrubbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttmru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T21:24:12.650" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T05:18:43.830" Title="Improving ugly rims" Tags="|wheels|paint|rust|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5669" CreationDate="2013-03-25T04:00:00.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A squeak like that is almost certainly a slipping belt. The easiest fix would be to pick up some &quot;belt conditioner&quot; spray from an auto parts store and spray it on the inside of all your belts, and see if the problem goes away. If not you can try tightening the belt that's causing the squeak; this is not too difficult, and just involves loosening a couple bolts so you can adjust the component with the pulley (alternator, compressor, power steering pump, etc.) then tightening them back down while putting tension on the belt. If the problem persists you'll need to replace the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T04:00:00.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2013-03-25T04:43:15.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to remove as much rust as possible with either a die grinder or other rotary device with a wire wheel. Then just use some rust paint to spray over them. You don't even have to take them off the car if you don't want to. Honestly you could even skip the wire wheel if you are feeling really lazy but you may have to respray them every 6 months depending on your weather conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find rust paint at any generic hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I did to my girlfriend's rusted up steel winter rims and it has held up this winter pretty well. This isn't a long term solution by any means though the rust will still eventually eat through the paint and you will have to re spray them unless you get it done professionally. Or get aluminum rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="2895" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T15:10:42.963" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T15:10:42.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2013-03-25T15:29:09.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;He is correct! The actual pump is inside a canister and unless the tank is bone dry, the pump is ALWAYS submersed in fuel ( even when cornering hard). if this was not the case, the vehicle would stutter and hiccup due to air in the line. Anyone who has ever had this happen, knows it does this only when you completely run out of gas. &#xA;Just look at the design for yourself and use common sense instead of listening to opinion and hearsay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2932" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T15:29:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2013-03-25T15:54:00.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got this figured out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The housing inside the actual tail-light assembly had become deformed, I guess due to heat, thus keeping the light-bulb housing from making proper contact with the tail-light assembly. A new tail-light assembly fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, everyone, for your help with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Recently, the same thing happened on the other side of the vehicle. Replacing the entire housing fixed it. I wonder if this is a common issue with this model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1497" LastEditorUserId="1497" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T19:38:11.750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T19:38:11.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2013-03-25T20:12:26.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your lazy, get black rustolium and just spray over everything. Then follow up with a black gloss wheel paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will look perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Try Plastidip! Just get a can and remove the wheel, spray a few good coats, let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many, many tutorials on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1681" LastEditorUserId="1681" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T20:24:03.993" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T20:24:03.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5655" CreationDate="2013-03-25T21:03:27.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So looks like I made a dummy mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I believe I had check the belt tension, it was simply too loose and was not spinning the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the belt correctly tensioned I am getting the correct 14.5v to the battery with the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2917" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T21:03:27.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5685" CreationDate="2013-03-25T23:21:40.087" Score="5" ViewCount="5669" Body="&lt;p&gt;My garage found a small amount of dried coolant on my radiator and block heater and tell me that I needed to replace my radiator, block heater, and hose urgently, as it could leak at any moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I last topped up my coolant about 6 months ago and it doesn't need topping up now, which suggests its not a new leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about to go ahead and get the work done, when googleing found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kseal.com/&quot;&gt;K-Seal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will K-Seal work almost as well as an expensive repair, or is it better just to get the work done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T02:23:49.320" Title="Does a small amount of dried coolant warrant replacing block heater, radiator and hose Or can I use K-Seal?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2013-03-26T02:52:26.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My garage found a small amount of dried coolant on my radiator and block heater  and tell me that I needed to replace my radiator, block heater, and hose urgently, as it could leak at any moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for there to be coolant residue on the &lt;strong&gt;outside&lt;/strong&gt; of places that it should &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt; that is clear indication that there is or was a leak. Also, seeing the flaky, dried up build-up is an indication that the coolant has been leaking at that point for quite some time, in order for it to build up into the pile you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are checking for the leak while the vehicle is cold and in your garage then this is not the how it should be checked. A &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt; leak [like the one being described in your post is going to be present only when the coolant system &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; pressurized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the system is cold &lt;em&gt;(sitting overnight or long enough where the engine is equal to ambient air temperature)&lt;/em&gt; then it must be pressurized using a device called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/popup.aspx?src=images/Product/large/17208.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coolant Pressure Tester&lt;/a&gt;. If you were to purchase one of these then you must make sure the adapters for it are for your specific vehicle. There are many different styles different make and model vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the system is hot &lt;em&gt;(at normal operating temperature)&lt;/em&gt;, and the leak is big enough, then you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to visually see the leak. If not, then you will have to wait until it cools down &lt;em&gt;(in order to ensure that there is no excess pressure in the system)&lt;/em&gt; and then pressure test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've identified where the leaks are then look into replacing those components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; recommended to use any type of radiator sealer additive. These products tend to raise the pressures in the system causing more strain on the surrounding components involved in the system. They also, will deposit themselves wherever they land in the coolant system &lt;em&gt;(not how they make it look in the commercials where it goes directly to the leak and creates a perfect patch)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why they make it look the way it does in the commercials is because in a perfect world or a controlled / simulated environment then that's how it would work out. In theory the liquid should take the path of least resistance. In this case, that would be the point of the leak. But, different vehicles handle their cooling differently and it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a &quot;perfect / simulated environment&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T02:52:26.650" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2013-03-26T04:35:45.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a GM mechanic with 25 years experience working on GM vehicles . I recently road tested a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze with a clicking noise from the right rear while braking . After having the rear drums off a couple of times, I found that the Gray grease installed at the factory on the rear backing plates had been missed in a couple of spots. The grease was a very dry application  ( not much of a lubricant ) so I installed backing plate lube to the pads on the backing plate and the noise was gone .&#xA;Hope this helps some of you out there with this concern .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2935" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T04:35:45.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2013-03-26T05:05:12.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use K-Seal. Find out if it really is a leak. Use tape or a permanent marker to mark where your coolant level is in the coolant reservoir and monitor for changes. If it really is leaking, determine which specific part is leaking and replace it. Then find a new shop. One that isn't trying to rip you off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T05:05:12.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5630" CreationDate="2013-03-27T04:22:33.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to convert the vehicle you would need the following items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel tank.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They make a few different versions of these. They more money you spend the stronger, smaller, and, lighter it will be. You can get these built from a cheap all-metal heavy designs (steel/aluminum. To an expensive extremely light weight and much smaller designs (plastic fully wrapped in carbon fiber).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel regulator&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To reduce the pressure from the 3600psi+ it's stored at in the tank, to the 125psi that's required by the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel injectors &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will require harness adapters to convert the factory plug to the new injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel rail&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To support the new fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring harness&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will allow the the Engine Control Module to communicate properly with all the new components. Depending on the kit that you go with if you decide to do the conversion, it will supply you with several different harness for connection everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel management computer&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is used to convert the information that would have been passed to the Engine Control Module (throttle position, ambient air temp, etc.) to now be passed to the CNG injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Documentation on the subject is not too easy to come by. A lot of sites that I've had bookmarked that talked about CNG have since gone missing. But I managed to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/should-you-convert-your-car-to-natural-gas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; two page article with some great pictures of what's involved and what a basic kit looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My opinion:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fueling the vehicle is too much of an issue. And if you wanted an at-home system then you would have to be ready to spend some money, and commit to driving CNG for the rest of your car owning life. Also, the time it takes to fill these vehicles is way too long and most likely the reason why you don't see more people going with CNG &lt;em&gt;(from empty to full 22hours)&lt;/em&gt;. And, the fact that their aren't CNG filling stations everywhere. I would hate to be forced to plan a trip around where I can get fuel for my vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck if you go for it. And if you do, please post some pictures. I bet a lot of the people on here would love to see how the install comes out. And your opinions on it would also be cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T04:22:33.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2013-03-27T08:21:02.853" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Octane rating&lt;/strong&gt; is a representation of how much fuel can be compressed before before it explodes on it's own. The action of the fuel igniting spontaneously due to excessive pressure causes what mechanics refer to as &lt;code&gt;knocking&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;pinging&lt;/code&gt;. Knocking has the ability to do some &lt;em&gt;real damage&lt;/em&gt;. So avoiding it at all costs is a very good idea. &lt;em&gt;Sometimes&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;knocking&lt;/code&gt; can be heard by the driver and sometimes it cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What if you have the music up too loud to hear it?&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Don't worry there are sensors called Knock Sensors that are bolted to the engine block and they constantly listen for &lt;code&gt;knocking&lt;/code&gt; / &lt;code&gt;pinging&lt;/code&gt;. If detected they will attempt to correct the condition by instruction the ignition system to delay &lt;em&gt;(retard)&lt;/em&gt; the spark timing &lt;em&gt;(when the actual spark occurs)&lt;/em&gt;. If unsuccessful it will illuminate the check engine light_&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;lower&lt;/strong&gt; the octane the &lt;strong&gt;less&lt;/strong&gt; pressure it can handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;higher&lt;/strong&gt; the octane the &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; pressure required for it to explode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The octane rating for a vehicle can usually be found inside the owners manual &lt;em&gt;(depending on your area you should see at least three of these as your average pump 87,88,89,90,91,93)&lt;/em&gt;. The octane rating the vehicle comes with is determined mostly by the compression ratio of the engine. Other things are also taken into consideration such as aspiration type (turbos / superchargers / etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High performance (naturally aspirated, high compression) vehicles will require a higher compression ratio. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepping up the compression ratio in an engine, will increase the total heat produced when the gas is compressed on the upstroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicles with Turbos or Superchargers do not usually have high compression ratios. But due to the power adder they will require a higher octane. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The forced induction can be generate anywhere from 8psi - 19psi+ (numbers can vary depending on application) and will play a rather large effect on the final cylinder pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Individuals that modify their automobiles. As power increases the octane used must be increased to prevent knocking. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modifying components and install a largest intake manifold, larger diameter throttle bodies will have direct effect on the overall cylinder pressure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also things such as incoming air temperature, engine core temperature (coolant), and, valve size are all factors in maintaining cylinder pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your vehicles manual, if it says to use 91 octane then that's what the vehicle was designed to use. And that is what should be use. If it does not specifically state this in the vehicles documentation then it's is a 100% waste of money to put the higher octane in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;If you can hear the engine knocking or pinging then at the next fill put a higher octane into it. Sometimes it will solve the problem and save you a trip to the mechanic.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T13:52:24.950" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T13:52:24.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2013-03-27T21:03:01.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Brian's and cinelli's comments inspired me to take the head unit out.  It turned out to be a very silly problem.  The wire for the LED illumination came unwrapped from around the corresponding wire of the harness adapter, due to poor securing with electrical tape.  I reconnected those wires, this time with a wire twist cap.  Now it works!  Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T21:03:01.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2013-03-28T05:29:42.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mercedes Benz repair manuals are very well kept by the company. Haynes or any other repair manual providers usually don't touch upon these vehicle. The reason is due to the complexity of the the vehicles systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most&lt;/strong&gt; issues have to be diagnosed using &lt;code&gt;Star Diagnostics&lt;/code&gt; (factory scan tool), and &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Documentation for disassembly &amp;amp; reassembly procedures, technical bulletins, and, recalls, is found in their &lt;code&gt;WIS&lt;/code&gt; system (log in required factory software).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Component locations and wiring diagrams are found on &lt;code&gt;Star Finder&lt;/code&gt; database (log in required web-site)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, replacing any modules require the &lt;code&gt;Star Diagnostics&lt;/code&gt; computer in order to transfer the coding from the old component to the new one. Anything on the &lt;code&gt;Engine CAN&lt;/code&gt; communication system can only be ordered by a dealership and only after the owner of the vehicle provides proof of ownership (license, registration, and title) as well as a written signature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes Benz puts a lot of work into developing their vehicles. They don't want &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; except trained mechanics working on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T05:29:42.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5696" CreationDate="2013-03-28T07:00:43.687" Score="3" ViewCount="55676" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is &lt;code&gt;Double Din&lt;/code&gt; / &lt;code&gt;2 Din Audio System&lt;/code&gt; better than &lt;code&gt;Single Din&lt;/code&gt;?&#xA;What are some scenarios where the Single Din Audio will prove to be more beneficial?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate if you can also highlight the very basic differences in the two.&#xA;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2849" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T11:13:01.633" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T04:46:58.323" Title="How is Double Din / 2 Din Audio System is better than Single Din" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2013-03-28T09:17:31.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is solely in size. A double-DIN gives you more space, but at the end of the day what you should be looking at is what will fit in your car, and this may be hidden behind fascia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dash will only fit a double DIN, but because I have a single DIN sound system, I use the other half as a storage space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T09:17:31.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-28T16:18:28.297" Score="5" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to convert a Mazda Miata into an electric car, I plan to remove the engine and the gearbox, and have the car be a direct drive. The motor I intend to use has twice the torque of a standard Miata. If I were to use this motor, would the high torque damage the vehicle? Are there other issue I should be aware of, before going through with any conversion? Is there some way to avoid such issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastEditorUserId="2945" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T16:51:30.687" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T17:25:44.917" Title="If I were to convert a gas powered automobile to an electric car, would a difference in specs possibly damage the car?" Tags="|electrical|mazda|torque|conversion|motors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2013-03-28T16:35:31.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to simply replace the existing petrol engine with an electric motor, then yes, it would ruin the gearbox very quickly, as it won't be able to handle that amount of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even if the transmission would cope, that wouldn't be the best way of doing it - an electric motor has a very different torque curve to an internal combustion engine, so you would need to replace the gearbox anyway. The fundamental point of a car gearbox is to convert the very narrow torque curve of an IC engine into something usable over the full range of road speeds. In theory, a suitable electric motor wouldn't need a gearbox at all (those used in trains, for example, generally drive the axles either directly or through a fixed geartrain), as it;'ll have a much wider torque curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were converting an existing car to electric, I'd remove the existing engine and gearbox and attach a suitable motor to the differential input shaft, keeping the diff for the final stage so that only a single motor would be required, and to avoid adding to the unsprung mass. The motor should fit in the space previously occupied by the 'box, leaving the entire engine bay free for batteries...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T16:35:31.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2013-03-28T17:06:11.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only difference between single and double DIN is the size of the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However double DIN units often have added features like touch screens, dvd, and navigation features which require the extra space for mounting. Many double din units will use the same audio processors and DACs that the single din units of the same brand do, so they often have the same sound quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the advantage of going single DIN is that they are generally cheaper because they don't have the added bells and whistles of touch screens, etc. This means you can spend less money ($200-300) for a unit that has the exact same audio quality as a double din unit that costs $700+. Also a single din unit will fit in more vehicles than a double din.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T17:06:11.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2013-03-28T17:25:44.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see you having many issues with power handling once you have removed the transmission. The driveshaft, diff and axles should be able to handle just about any torque you throw at them unless you start really getting above 400-500 ftlbs or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet the biggest issues you would have with this project would be ECM related and getting the electronics to work without freaking out that there no longer is any oil/trans pressure, temperature, rpm, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also are you going to convert the vehicle to a mechanical steering rack or somehow run a power steering pump separate? Again same with heating/ac you would lose those or have to replace them with an electric equivalent. Basically anything belt driven has to be removed or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the accelerator is cable operated you will have to convert that somehow to an electrical signal to go to your speed controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet trying to get regenerative braking to work would be very difficult and advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have lots of money in the bank before you start this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T17:25:44.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6049" CreationDate="2013-03-28T20:02:50.417" Score="4" ViewCount="4098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Ford Ranger that makes a faint howling sound when I'm accelerating, usually after being idle at a stoplight. I've tried slowly revving in neutral and I didn't hear the same noise. Definitely is something out of the ordinary, I know what my truck &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; sound like. Started today. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;94k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 speed Auto-tranny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.3 liter 4 cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Ok, weird. I had to take my truck to the shop anyways for an oil change, and I asked them to take a look at the problem that I'm having and explain how to reproduce it and everything. Turns out they couldn't find the problem or reproduce it and now, neither can I. Could an oil change really be the difference in that noise or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastEditorUserId="2946" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T13:12:53.583" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T03:21:27.600" Title="Howling sound when accelerating" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2013-03-28T21:24:56.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the valave body, there is a valve that wears out and does not seal properly all the time, causeing low pressure which causes the slip, then the valve seals causing it to take off. It is a known propblem in the impala transmissions, but GM wont do a recall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T21:24:56.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5702" CreationDate="2013-03-28T21:43:09.613" Score="7" ViewCount="75834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 96 Chevy Blazer (automatic) that's been making a slight gurgling noise (sounds like water - think &quot;babbling brook&quot;). I only recently got the vehicle and I'm thus not too familiar with what's normal and what's not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like something to be concerned about, or is it normal for this make/model/age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes noise after a cold-start and while idling.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recently replaced the radiator (about 100 miles ago) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;162k miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure if it was making this noise before the radiator replacement or not; I wasn't really paying attention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2919" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T14:07:49.897" Title="Gurgling Noise Behind Dash" Tags="|noise|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5700" CreationDate="2013-03-28T21:52:02.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you've got a little bit of air in your cooling system from when you replaced the radiator. It's not a huge problem, what you're hearing is just bubbles/air/water running through the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method for getting air out of your cooling system is to place your Blazer on level ground or with the front just slightly elevated and run the engine with the radiator cap off and the heater on, adding coolant as needed. Let cool and repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T21:52:02.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5700" CreationDate="2013-03-28T22:40:16.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most likely have air in the system, I had the same issue with my 99 Blazer. It seemed as no matter how much I bled it it I couldn't get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise the front of the vehicle &lt;strong&gt;make sure&lt;/strong&gt; that the right side is a bit higher than the left. This will ensure that the highest point in the system is the radiator cap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the radiator cap and start the vehicle. Allow it come to normal operating temperature. Turn the defroster on high heat to ensure that the coolant is flowing through the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on the coolant level and you should see air bubbles come up and the level drop as it &quot;burps&quot;. Fill the fluid as this happens keeping the level full.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elevation idea came to me when I noticed that the heater core is placed higher than the radiator cap in the vehicle. So if air were to get itself stuck there then it would be quite the fight to get it open since air will work to the highest point in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this does not solve the issue, then there is a restriction in the heater core. You could try flushing the heater core yourself or have a reputable shop perform the flush. If flushing doesn't work, then it'll have to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T22:40:16.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2013-03-29T03:57:49.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;3.8&lt;/strong&gt; Natural Aspirated Engine was a rather solid design and were rarely known to blow head gaskets. Their weak point seemed to be the plastic Intake Manifold. Here are the three possible causes to your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are 100% &lt;em&gt;sure&lt;/em&gt; that it's &lt;strong&gt;oil&lt;/strong&gt; in the coolant then remove the intake manifold and check the &lt;code&gt;Intake Manifold Gaskets&lt;/code&gt; &lt;em&gt;upper and lower&lt;/em&gt; for any signs of seepage. Be sure to inspect the &lt;code&gt;Intake Manifold&lt;/code&gt; for any cracks or signs of it leaking. If this is the case, this is how oil would find it's way into the coolant and not vise-verse. Here is a picture of the intake manifold for reference. This is a very common issue with these motors. And honestly I'm surprised that with the mileage your vehicle has it hasn't been done yet. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHE87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;98LeSabre_IntakeManifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it's not transmission fluid. If you have a look at the radiator and you'll notice the radiator has two metal pressure lines on the same side one near the top and on near the bottom of the assembly. These lines come from the transmission to the transmission cooler that is integrated into the radiator. If it was transmission fluid then the vehicle will have shifting issues because the coolant would also get into the transmission causing the clutches and torque converter to overheat. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Souw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;98LeSabre_radiator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the oil and transmission levels are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; dropping then what's going on? Double check the substance in question, if you realize that it is nothing more than sludgy build-up in the cooling system (you will notice it on the bottom of the radiator cap and in the coolant overflow tank) and the vehicle has a &lt;strong&gt;Dexcool&lt;/strong&gt; brand coolant in it, this is caused by air being introduced to the coolant system. Possibly when they changed the water pump. Here is a photo of a the inside of a radiator that had Dexcool in it. You'll notice the substance when mixed with coolant &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; resemble oil to the untrained eye. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKYkv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKYkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dexcool_radiator_sludge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/images/dexmud31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sancarlosradiator.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T06:03:46.227" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T06:03:46.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2013-03-29T05:08:24.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chevy Impala's &lt;code&gt;4T65E&lt;/code&gt; transmission was said to feature an updated &lt;code&gt;Pressure Control Solenoid&lt;/code&gt; starting in 2003. This was a major issue in the 2000-2002 model years. But, there are still many people with the 2003MY vehicles that are experiencing the same issue as you. The vehicle may or may not already have illuminated a &lt;strong&gt;Check Engine Light&lt;/strong&gt; due to the issue. Even if not, it most likely still has stored a fault that could verify that the &lt;code&gt;Pressure Control Solenoid&lt;/code&gt; is faulty. The trouble code for this would be &lt;code&gt;P1811 (max adapt, long shift)&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The component is located behind the side cover of the transmission and should take ~5 hours for a quality mechanic to complete. It is a rather big job and involves lowing the front cradle to gain access. If you're not 100% comfortable with a job of this magnitude this then get the vehicle to a well known transmission shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below: &lt;code&gt;Pressure Switch Assembly&lt;/code&gt; (It is possible that the you can get the switch separate from the entire assembly. That's something you or your mechanic can look into)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeHVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T05:08:24.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2013-03-29T05:46:36.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a well ventilated area and you have a little time on your hands (a day total with waiting for paint to dry). Then you should just do it right so you're not upset with how they wheels look in a week. Pick yourself up some of my favorite product for stripping painted / rusted parts back down to bare metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aircraft Paint Removal (APR)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0k12.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This stuff is pretty dangerous stuff so be sure to wear thick, elbow high, rubber gloves and a face mask (it burns when it gets on your skin).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pour half of what you think you'll need it into a suitable &lt;em&gt;metal&lt;/em&gt; container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;- Once poured put the cap back on and put the &lt;code&gt;APR&lt;/code&gt; in a safe location until you have used what has been poured.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a paint brush apply to the wheels and let it sit for about 10 minutes.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;- Don't let this sit overnight. (in case you somehow get that idea)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;- You will notice the paint will start to bubble.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once bubbled, allow it another five minutes to set in then if you have a garden hose accessible this will remove most (possibly even all if you applied the product correctly)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a scraper and/or sand paper take off anything that was left over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: Once the wheel is stripped down it &lt;strong&gt;will rust&lt;/strong&gt; if you let it sit overnight or even for an hour or so (depending on moister in the air). You &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; apply at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; get a layer of primer on them before stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab yourself a package of 3x5 index cards. Place these between the rim and the tire rim. (refer to the photo below)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTsnK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply your primer, paint, and clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a rather inexpensive process and I'm 100% positive you'll be thrilled with the results as well as the learning experience. I've used this product on some really nasty projects (wheel, restorations, machinery) and I've never been disappointed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T05:46:36.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-29T22:07:27.860" Score="9" ViewCount="3623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda CBR600 F4i which suffers from occasional hesitation at low rpm when accelerating. I also get occasional fault codes from the ECU indicating a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I connected a vacuum gauge between the MAP sensor and the intake manifold, the manual indicates that I should be seeing between 150 - 250 mm Hg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was running the bike at idle the gauge was jumping rapidly between 5 and 20 cm Hg. As far as I can tell this indicates a leaking valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I increase the engine speed up to about 3000 rpm the vacuum stops fluctuating and sits on about 18 cm Hg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the bike performs extremely well and apart from the occasional low rpm hesitation, there are no obvious issues above 3,000 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before I start tearing the engine down is there any else I should be looking at first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just done a compression test if your interested you can see the results &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5778/what-do-these-compression-figures-mean&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:15:06.803" Title="What are the causes of fluctuating intake manifold vacuum" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|maintenance|troubleshooting|valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2013-03-29T23:41:49.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sure sounds like a valve is sticking or leaking. There's a remote possibility that your troubles are caused by a clogged catalytic converter or a leaky exhaust. If you can't find any other clues it might be worth it to ask someone at your local bike shop for an opinion before tearing the whole darn thing apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T23:41:49.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5471" CreationDate="2013-03-30T09:34:00.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;rapid or continuous clicking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; noise being heard while attempting to start a vehicle is a tell-tale sign of either a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; weak battery or excessive/high resistance in the starter circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When a main systems battery is &lt;strong&gt;completely exhausted&lt;/strong&gt; you will have a rather difficult time attempting to jump start it and sometimes the battery will not take a jump or at all. But, regardless of how long you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have waited, give it one more good effort if the cables are still readily available for use. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Before picking up any tools&lt;/em&gt;, lift the hood and &lt;strong&gt;visually&lt;/strong&gt; inspect the battery. &lt;strong&gt;Pay close attention&lt;/strong&gt; to the connection point between the terminal ends &lt;em&gt;(where wires connect to battery)&lt;/em&gt; and the battery posts, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;especially the positive cable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. What you will be looking for is a white / blue / pinkish flaky build up covering the positive and/or negative terminal(s). This is called &lt;code&gt;corrosion&lt;/code&gt;. If the terminals are corroded then remove the battery from the vehicle &lt;em&gt;(for safety purposes)&lt;/em&gt; and place it aside. Next clean the terminals with terminal cleaner and a wire brush. This will make a little bit of a mess so placing a towel under the cables to catch the mess is a good idea. Once the terminals are all cleaned up, then do the same to the battery posts. After this is done reconnect the battery &lt;em&gt;(make sure to get the &lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; correct)&lt;/em&gt; and retry starting the vehicle. It would be a good idea to pick up some terminal end protection spray and apply a light coat to the terminal ends to &lt;em&gt;help&lt;/em&gt; prevent any future corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Below is an example photo showing a corroded terminal end on the positive terminal of a battery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMsxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corroded battery terminal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Still not starting? &lt;strong&gt;Continue&lt;/strong&gt; to the next bullet.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Starts? &lt;strong&gt;Skip&lt;/strong&gt; the next bullet and proceed to the third.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reconnect the jumper cables between the two vehicles &lt;em&gt;(make sure that the cables are connected directly from battery to battery)&lt;/em&gt; and allow the vehicle performing the jump to run for five to ten minutes without performing any starting attempts &lt;em&gt;(make sure all the doors are closed in the dead vehicle, and all accessories, light, radio, etc, are in the off position)&lt;/em&gt;. After about ten to fifteen minutes or so, give it another shot. If it starts, I would still suggest that you have the battery load tested by your local auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regardless if you are able to get it started or not, I would still like you to remove the battery to take it in for testing. If you feel like the vehicle is safe to drive, then that is completely up to you. Be sure to tell them what you have done so far and you'd just like the vehicles electrical systems checked to ensure that the charging system is operating properly and that there are no parasitic draws causing the battery to slowly drain while parked for several days and in more extreme cases overnight or even after only a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T09:34:00.807" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-03-30T09:34:00.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-30T15:25:25.083" Score="0" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start my Dodge Ram 1500 in the morning, the RPM goes up and down for about 4 times from 1000 to 2000 and it sounds like the truck is gonna shut off. It also has a check engine light on. Just bought the truck. What might be the cause of this? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2954" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T14:46:15.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T22:52:39.710" Title="when i start my 1500 dodge ram rpm goes up and down in morning" Tags="|cel|dodge|rough-idle|mil|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5712" CreationDate="2013-03-30T18:03:51.260" Score="3" ViewCount="5911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevrolet Suburban, 1500 model, year 2001. &#xA;How do I remove the wiper arm of my Chevy after I remove the base cap and nut.&#xA;The arm is not coming off the base after significant prying with screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On image the base of wiper arm is on the left, wiper extends to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPnMU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPnMU.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2955" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T02:36:32.803" Title="Removing Wiper Arm from Chevy Suburban?" Tags="|chevrolet|replace|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2013-03-30T20:47:17.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my 2002 silversdo was new the arm slipped several times. The dealer Loctited them in place. Try using a small gearpuller. If you don't have a small puller try a battery terminal puller. If you can't grab the arm with a puller you may need a wiperarm removal tool. It is a small lever that prys on the arm without damage to the plastic trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T20:47:17.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5710" CreationDate="2013-03-30T20:59:33.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to use a Windshield Wiper Arm Puller (shown below). These are about $15usd and most likely available at any auto store. But, before going and spending money, spray the threaded area with some WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes, this will give it time to set in. Next, place the wiper in the &lt;em&gt;service&lt;/em&gt; position* as if you were about to replace the wiper blades &lt;em&gt;(this will require you to lower the hood)&lt;/em&gt;. Once in position, place one hand where the wiper arm makes a 90 degree angle. Then rock it back and forth and it will hopefully wiggle free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Windshield Wiper Arm Puller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6VYO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wiperarmpuller&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T20:59:33.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23100" CreationDate="2013-03-30T21:27:41.530" Score="8" ViewCount="12614" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle clutch (Yamaha Diversion) has recently started dragging extremely badly; I need to rev-match up and down gears and shifting from neutral into first requires me to rev the engine, pull the clutch, then shift in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also making a squeaking/grinding noise when engaging the clutch, which typically goes away when the clutch is fully closed. The release/thrust bearing looks quite worn, so I'm going to replace that, but is there any other components which would cause the dragging and if not, how does a worn thrust bearing cause clutch drag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2001 600cc Yamaha Diversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2287" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T05:14:52.923" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T00:07:54.150" Title="Clutch dragging and making squeaking/grinding noise" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|noise|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-31T03:39:39.680" Score="3" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 Suzuki GS 850 and I am having a problem where the rpms spike when I really get on the throttle.  If I slowly accelerate there is no problem, everything runs smoothly.  When I'm on the interstate and I hit the throttle hard the bike pulls until I get into the upper third or so of the tach range. Then the bike revs up to red line almost instantly. While this is happening the bike itself looses power and stops accelerating. Once I let go of the throttle and slow down to a lower rpm range everything is fine again. Any ideas what could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2956" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-03-31T16:39:23.477" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T16:39:23.477" Title="1980 Suzuki GS 850 trouble at high rpms" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2013-03-31T10:57:06.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a clutch problem. If it is nearing end of life opening the throttle can break its friction, which is why the speed drops and revs increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get it along to the garage before it finally gives up the ghost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T10:57:06.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5718" CreationDate="2013-03-31T18:20:06.417" Score="5" ViewCount="4942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck trying to replace the rear lower control arms on my 92 Civic. One of the bolts was broken, and while I've now gotten the old arm off by taking a Dremel to the bushing and bolt, part of the bolt is still stuck in the nut that's welded onto the piece it goes through. That piece is actually part of the shock/strut, so in theory I could take it off and replace it, but I'd rather not do that. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammering, vise grips, and most recently, cutting the end of the bolt partly-flat (using the Dremel) so I could put an adjustable wrench around it to turn it, and nothing moves it. What options do I have left? I would try welding a nut onto the end to turn it, but I don't have any equipment or experience welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I also tried drilling through the middle of the bolt, but the only drill I have is the Dremel and its bit wasn't doing anything to the bolt...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T03:12:00.747" Title="Removing badly rusted and broken bolt from suspension" Tags="|honda|suspension|civic|rust|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2013-03-31T19:29:33.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a real drill and drill a pilot hole in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use an easy out drill bit with the drill in reverse to bite into the bolt and rotate it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T19:29:33.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2013-03-31T20:57:12.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up just taking off the shock so I could work with it better, then using the Dremel to cut off the welded-on nut that the broken bolt was stuck in. Then it was just a matter of putting it back together with a new nut and bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T20:57:12.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2013-04-01T01:17:26.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;your issue is with the temp switch not the temp sensor. the sensor will only operate the fans when it fails to avoid a possible overheating issue ,where as the switch is the fans main controller via ecm. the switch should be on the radiator itself or near the water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2958" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T01:17:26.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2013-04-01T04:31:36.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perform the obvious checks first. Check the air filter and pull the spark plugs and inspect and replace if needed. Take note of their condition. &lt;em&gt;(smell like fuel? / Showing signs of a rich/lean condition? / broken? / etc)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets have a look at the &lt;code&gt;fuel pressure regulator&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/li9Yg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel pressure regulator is operated by the vacuum line that's attached to it. Since vacuum readings are directly related to throttle position the more throttle, the more fuel &lt;em&gt;(quick/short explanation)&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is no vacuum it supplies maximum pressure. Also may cause extra undesired fuel to leak into one of the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few different ways these regulator fail.&#xA; - The vacuum line going to breaks is disconnected.&#xA; - The diaphragm that is inside of it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens it can cause a ton of different symptoms. One of them being your &lt;em&gt;exact issue&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check it you'll have to lift the tank up. Then locate the fuel pressure regulator (&lt;code&gt;FPR&lt;/code&gt;) &lt;em&gt;(use the photo above for reference)&lt;/em&gt; and disconnect the vacuum line attached to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the vacuum line. &lt;em&gt;Are there any signs of fuel?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the vacuum line disconnected turn the key to the &lt;code&gt;ON&lt;/code&gt; postion ###(DO NOT START THE BIKE)###. &lt;em&gt;Does this causes fuel to drip?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then we've found our culprit. The vacuum line should be completely dry and, the spark plugs should not have excess fuel on them what so ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that while you have everything opened up to take a look at any other vacuum lines you can see and replace them as needed. Since you're not reporting that the &lt;code&gt;RPM&lt;/code&gt;s are fluctuating at idle and it's simply the hesitation &amp;amp; vacuum readings you're getting. Then I'm almost certain it's going to be the &lt;code&gt;FPR&lt;/code&gt; and you most likely wont find any other vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: If you're using any fuel additives. Now is the time to stop. It seems to show up much more in bikes that use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T04:31:36.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2013-04-01T14:43:49.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad idle or auxiliary air valve of some sort. Cold-air valve, idle-up solenoid, EGR valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T14:43:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5736" CreationDate="2013-04-01T19:31:53.937" Score="2" ViewCount="8111" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1996 F-150 with the 4.9 L (300 CID) inline 6, for some time now, the engine barely reaches the &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; coolant temperature as read on the gauge.  Historically, it would climb until it was in a nice healthy spot in the middle of the gauge indicated normal range.  About a year ago, I tried to fix this by replacing the thermostat, but the problem persists.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I correctly installed the new thermostat and it works correctly, I think the problem is either that the signal going to the gauge is bad &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the gauge itself is the problem.  The gauge is not cheap and probably tedious to replace so I'll assume the former case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;am I correct in thinking that I should try replacing the coolant temperature sender?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is there a good way to check if the thermostat is actually working correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;am I correct in thinking that the temperature sender is the device that measures temperature and sends it to the gauge and that the temperature sensor is the device that measures temperature and sends it to the engine control unit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2961" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T20:59:33.557" Title="Bad temperature gauge reading on '96 Ford F-150" Tags="|ford|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5731" CreationDate="2013-04-02T02:06:38.313" Score="5" ViewCount="13318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of cars with some paint damage. Neither have custom paint jobs. Is there a website where I can find the exactly colour match based on the stock colours for cars based on make, model and year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2937" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T23:47:02.667" Title="How can I find out the exact colour for my car?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-04-05T05:35:45.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5727" CreationDate="2013-04-02T02:09:54.257" Score="2" ViewCount="3123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 1998 Subaru Outback threw a check engine light the other day, and when I read the code, P0507, it corresponded to a problem I'd noticed for a while: high idle rpms. The problem is most serious with the A/C on; when the compressor clutch kicks in while stopped, if your foot isn't &lt;strong&gt;firmly&lt;/strong&gt; on the brake, the vehicle will lurch forward as the computer increases the idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T15:51:27.360" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:51:27.360" Title="Subaru Outback 1998 high idle rpms and CEL P0507" Tags="|subaru|cel|idle|rpm|p0507|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5726" CreationDate="2013-04-02T02:16:22.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research and on automatic-transmission models, the most common cause of this problem seems to be a broken or dirty IAC (idle air control) valve. So the first thing I tried was removing the hose from the air intake into the IAC, and spraying Seafoam into it with the engine running. In order to get the engine to run with the hose off, I had to remove the electrical connector from the MAF (manifold air flow) sensor just past the air filter; otherwise, the computer saw no airflow and cut off fuel injection, causing the engine to stall within 5 seconds. I also had to turn off the A/C to keep the engine from running extremely rough when the clutch kicked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making those changes, running the Seafoam through the IAC was easy. I just gave it about 10 spurts (of the spray variant), waiting a few seconds after each one, then shut the engine off after running it another 30 seconds or so. After reconnecting everything, the idle was down to about 650-750 rpms (previously 1000+, 1200+ with the A/C on) and the vehicle seems to be running much better. I cleared the CEL code and it has not reappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T02:16:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-02T03:36:11.060" Score="5" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between an automatic torque wrench and a click torque wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the 1/2inch torque wrench I use on my Jeep is a really cheep one I bought on amazon and it clicks when it reaches the set torque... Obviously this is a click torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to get a 1/4 torque wrench now because I have built up quite the selection of 1/4 impact sockets and I would like to use them on my jeep since they are much nicer quality than my 1/2 inch sockets, and a 1/4 wrench can fit in many places a 1/2 wrench cannot.  While searching around I have come across torque wrenches that are marketed as &quot;automatic&quot; but I am having trouble finding out how exactly they differ from a click torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do automatic torque wrenches stop have a clutch or something that prevents over torquing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all of you worried... I still plan to use my 1/2 sockets for lug nuts, spark plugs, and all of my nuts larger than 9/16 :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-02-24T11:40:38.377" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T11:40:38.377" Title="What is the difference between an automatic torque wrench and a click wrench?" Tags="|tools|torque-wrench|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5733" CreationDate="2013-04-02T03:38:07.277" Score="3" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the traditional maintenance of oil changes, and keeping fluid levels correct - &lt;strong&gt;what else&lt;/strong&gt; will help prolong the engine's life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall a few years back gasoline additives were the thing to go with - what's the best/recommended one currently? If any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I recall reading about each gasoline brand having their own set of additives at one point, where it was suggested to cycle between a few different brands every X amount of km/miles. The reason behind switching was so that the next brand would cleanup any sediments left by the previous brand. How likely is this in today's world? And better yet, how important is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2890" LastEditorUserId="2890" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T16:14:24.840" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T16:14:24.840" Title="What kind of gasoline additives will help maintain the engine efficiency/life?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|toyota|nissan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5725" CreationDate="2013-04-02T05:24:34.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you open the drivers side front door and look at the door jamb area &lt;em&gt;(it may be in the general area)&lt;/em&gt; you'll notice a plaque that has all the essential information about the vehicle. Below are a few images showing the location and a couple example of what these plaques look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Location&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Teqfd.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Examples&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;HONDA&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcHa3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;FORD### &lt;em&gt;arrow points to paint code&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vWHUa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vWHUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=7272&amp;amp;pictureid=30796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ford-trucks.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-12-25T23:47:02.667" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T23:47:02.667" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-06T02:59:54.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2013-04-02T05:39:23.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should without a doubt make sure to handle any issues as they &quot;pop up&quot;. Yes, there are times where money isn't the easiest thing to come by &lt;em&gt;(Trust me. I know)&lt;/em&gt;, when this is the case just make sure to handle it as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it's vital that you keep up with your vehicles service intervals as described in your vehicles manuals. In my opinion there is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; real science to to it. It's more or less logic and common sense. If something doesn't feel right then have it looked at by a professional that you trust as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waiting on repairs only puts more wear on the other components that work with it. This usually brings repair bills through the roof and customers into &quot;panic&quot; mode. Usually ending with the customer saying &quot;I'll just drive it till it dies&quot;. Which then makes their driving environment much more dangerous not only for them, but for everyone around them. I have supplied two links that will provide online (.pdf) version of the service manuals for the vehicles that you have listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2005 Toyota Tacoma&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maintenance.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2013 Nissan Rogue&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T05:39:23.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2013-04-02T12:15:15.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today's gasoline is already loaded up with all the additives that one is likely to need on a regular basis.  There really isn't anything you should be adding &quot;just because&quot;.  Certain additives can be helpful if problems crop up though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T12:15:15.217" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2013-04-02T16:08:58.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to use good gas (Top Tier if you are in the states), and change your oil. Other than that, I use all high quality synthetic products from AMSOIL in my ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use one bottle of their fuel treatment (P.i) in the spring and I use their oil flush before each oil change. Other than that I just keep to the maintenance schedules for when to flush/change fluids and filters etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you are going to store your vehicle for any period of time never forget to use gasoline stabilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Top Tier is a trademarked standard of gasoline which meets a certain specification or requirement for additives. You can read/see the retailers &lt;a href=&quot;http://toptiergas.com/retailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on their site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="2890" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T17:30:51.173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T17:30:51.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5728" CreationDate="2013-04-02T16:57:14.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a click wrench is an automatic torque wrench. I think an automatic torque wrench is any wrench that stops applying torque once the specified torque is reached. This could be achieved in a number of ways.  Whether it uses a clutch or spring and ball is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A click wrench will briefly stop applying torque once the specified torque is reached as long as you also stop torquing the wrench then you will have achieved the desired torque. So in this sense it is automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old style 2bar and meter torque wrench on the other hand is not automatic as you have to watch the gauge to know when to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use whatever gives an accurate torque rating (something that has been calibrated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T16:57:14.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5723" CreationDate="2013-04-02T17:09:59.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replaced the thermostat about a year ago, it does seem less likely that the problem is the thermostat. If your heater is working properly ( good amount of heat once the engine is good and warm ) and the hose coming out of the top of the radiator doesn't get hothot until your engine reaches about 180-190 degrees, then you can almost certainly rule out the thermostat problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to the temperature gauge. You can test the gauge by running a small wire from the negative battery terminal and tap it to the wire going from the sensor to the temperature gauge. If this causes the gauge to jump up each time you tap it, then it seems like your gauge is good too, which would leave the temperature sensor or the wire leading from it. If you can't get the gauge to jump up when you ground it, then you know pretty well that the gauge is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the difference between temperature sender and temperature sender? Those two terms seem to be interchanged too often. You'll have to physically determine which one is wired up to the gauge cluster and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T17:09:59.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7004" CreationDate="2013-04-02T21:32:00.097" Score="1" ViewCount="5081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a really sharp buzzing sound coming from my 2006 Nissan Altima engine.  The sound starts and stays around as soon as press the accelerator.  Doesn't go away until I turn the car off. I know there are similiar issues like this but didn't know if the acceleration part hints at a specific problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2966" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T00:54:56.500" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T03:34:23.757" Title="Buzzing Sound coming from Nissan Altima engine after accelerating" Tags="|engine|nissan|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-03T01:56:54.620" Score="3" ViewCount="2091" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT will spudder and the engine will shake occasionally on cold starts. Its not a consistent problem - not every time, but it seems to be growing worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can feel the engine shaking the car, then after a little bit of driving it will just automagically go away. I've been told it could be spark plugs, the computer, etc. I would love to do the repair myself, but I just don't know what to even dive into without knowing that I'll waste hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, when I'm accelerating (a lot), there's some kind of whistling noise coming from the front end of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas, oh great gurus of fast moving stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2968" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:28:28.857" Title="Knocking in my engine during cold start / whistling when accelerating" Tags="|pontiac|gm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5743" CreationDate="2013-04-03T04:35:47.903" Score="20" ViewCount="185171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to driving A/T cars and I am trying to understand the use of Neutral(N) gear. Should I shift my gear from D to N when my car comes to a complete halt on a red light or somewhere else? As per my understanding, putting brakes on while waiting on a red light while your gear is in D can damage the braking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2969" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T22:24:31.153" Title="Use of Neutral Gear in Automatic Transmission" Tags="|brakes|transmission|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2013-04-03T09:54:40.043" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;For general driving, you can leave the car in drive. It doesn't damage the transmission leaving it in drive while stationary at the lights - although you don't want to be doing silly things like revving the engine while holding the brakes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an automatic car, you don't really use neutral. It is a step on the way to selecting Park, which means that the transmission is disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T09:54:40.043" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2013-04-03T11:45:05.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neutral is there for special cases, such as if/when the car needs to be pulled up onto a flatbed for towing.  Other than cases like that, you can just pretend that the &quot;N&quot; notch doesn't even exist.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T11:45:05.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2013-04-03T14:49:19.920" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of neutral on an automatic is for towing or pushing the car. Obviously you can't push it with the transmission in park, and if you tow it with the transmission in gear or in park and the drive wheels are in contact with the ground, you'll ruin your transmission or your tires or both. I'm sure there are some other uses too, but they're sufficiently rare that they probably don't need to be mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T14:49:19.920" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2013-04-03T15:51:05.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;putting brakes on while waiting on a red light while your gear is in D&#xA;  can damage the braking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, no, you're fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you've conflated several issues that can lead to issues (if not actual problems):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you were sitting at a light in drive (D) with your left foot on the brakes hard and your right foot flooring the accelerator, your transmission would become extremely annoyed with you, not your brakes.  This is what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5739/use-of-neutral-gear-in-automatic-transmission/5743#5743&quot;&gt;Rory is describing&lt;/a&gt; and, while it's not strictly what you're asking, I'll second his advice: don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you just quickly decelerated from high speed (as in, you were going &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; fast and stopped &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quickly), your brake discs will be quite hot.  As you can see from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/487/57&quot;&gt;Larry's picture&lt;/a&gt;, most of the disc will be able to radiate heat.  However, the area that is tightly gripped by the pad (since you're preventing the engine from carrying you forward) is effectively enclosed in a suffocating glove of brake pad.  This can leave a residue in that spot and will eventally lead to annoying vibration under braking.  In this situation (which I try to avoid), I would be tempted to put the car in park, not neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the others have said, neutral is almost never used.  It does provide a modicum of comfort, though, to know that reverse and drive aren't immediately adjacent in your gear selection....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T15:51:05.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2013-04-03T23:54:44.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely sounds like the spark plugs or ignition coil to me. My father owns a mechanic shop in Boston and when my car was doing the SAME exact thing in the winter, he just replaced a certain spark plug and ignition coil that went bad and everything was all better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't know for sure without checking. If you know what burned out spark plugs will look like, then you can find out which one it is and just change them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2976" LastEditorUserId="2976" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T00:07:34.247" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T00:07:34.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-04T01:31:44.037" Score="2" ViewCount="1875" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put a replacement light for my vehicle and it is &quot;DOT&quot; and/or &quot;SAE&quot; approved for legal street use does that mean it is legal in all 50 US States?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically: I just replaced my Jeep turn signals with clear lights that flash amber when I am turning.  All of the parts I used are labeled &quot;DOT and SAE&quot; approved.  My local law says that turn signal in the color range of white and amber are OK for street use, but I am moving to Arizona in a few months where their law dictate strictly amber turn signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I keep my turn signals will I be in a position to get ticketed?  Or since all of the parts I used &quot;DOT and SAE&quot; approved can I use that as a legal excuse?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T14:55:13.627" Title="Does &quot;DOT and SAE approved&quot; apply across the United States?" Tags="|lights|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-04T02:36:37.980" Score="4" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently replaced the belt tension pulley and a little after a week the engine had trouble running. The next day I tried to start it it wouldn't run without constantly pressing on the gas while in neutral. I started removing components that I had removed to change the pulley; the exhaust intake hose and the fan. Low and behold, the engine runs without the fan attached! The fan seems to be the Achilles heel. The engine runs fine without the fan, but as soon as it is attached (the only alteration to configuration), the engine quickly sputters and dies. I've had an ex-mechanic look at it and he was completely stumped. The belt and connected system all seem to operate fine as well. Any help would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2978" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:11:54.067" Title="'93 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 Engine Only Runs Without Fan" Tags="|engine|fan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2013-04-04T07:33:50.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;If the fan is installed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if it has any play by placing one of the blades at about 12-o'clock and applying light pressure in and out. &lt;em&gt;(top goes toward firewall and the blade at roughly 6pm would push outward.)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; little play here. If the fan isn't installed then you can just grab the water-pump shaft _(where the pulley &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be bolted to)_ and give it a good wiggle. If there is bearing play you should hear it clicking or knocking when doing this. If there's is a significant amount of play in the pump then replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reasoning behind condemning the water-pump&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the fan clutch installed, the pump will have added weight to the very end of the shaft. This in turn will cause an excess of pressure to be put on the bearings inside the pump. If the bearing are worn it may cause the pump to seize at this point. If you and your friend check it together this could be tested with one person in the vehicle keeping it running while the  other observes the water-pump pulley to make sure that it's turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T07:33:50.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-04T08:43:03.510" Score="2" ViewCount="1526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found heavy leak of engine oil into the radiator of my 1996 Mercedes Benz (odometer 150000 mile). The workshop found the oil cooler pump damaged but we could not find a new one in the area. He suggested to run the car without it (temperature was around 70 F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He informed me that he cleaned the passage of the coolant in the engine but I should expect some oil in the radiator for three days after cleaning and I can remove it by opening the cap and use some tissue to remove it. I used the tissue to remove the oil daily for about two weeks, then I gave up and I removed the oil weekly instead of daily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After  about three months from cleaning (after about 3500 miles), I discovered radiator coolant leakage. I checked the car in the same workshop. They found the leak from the water pump and the bottom of the radiator. &#xA;My intuition says that the leak is due to the oil in the coolant system. They say that the oil in the coolant system is not the cause. Can you please tell if there is a cause and effect situation here and should I ask them to replace the hoses or just clean them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2979" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T10:45:19.863" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T10:49:33.930" Title="Radiator Coolant Leak" Tags="|mercedes-benz|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5756" CreationDate="2013-04-04T10:49:33.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you should trust to intuition here :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect the leak to be due to the oil in the system. Instead I would see both as symptoms of the more general problem of things wearing out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned they didn't source a new oil pump - without it, parts of the engine or coolant system may overheat and this could lead to leaks such as the ones you have seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would request a full check of the cooling system, including replacement of any faulty hoses or components, a replacement oil pump, and a repair or replacement of the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T10:49:33.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5753" CreationDate="2013-04-04T14:55:13.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DOT certification has more to do with the light output level being the right brightness (candella) and pattern not necessarily colour. I doubt a police officer cares whether your turn indicators are yellow/amber or white. They are more concerned about blue/red/purple etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T14:55:13.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2013-04-04T15:11:54.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fan could be bent, causing it to be off balance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check and see that you didn't somehow bump the timing. If the distributor is lose, you could have knocked it out of timing when replacing the belt, then bumped it back into the same area while pulling the fan off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'm as stumped as your mechanic! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:11:54.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2013-04-04T18:59:52.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whistling noise aside ( one problem at a time ), spark plugs are cheap and easy to replace yourself. Try replacing your spark plugs and see if that solves at least one of your problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T18:59:52.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T05:28:18.507" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I recall, I read a news 10 years ago about putting some chemical on windshield which can somehow reduce the temperature inside a car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I just bought my car, I want to try. Please help. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:33:10.493" Title="Is there any chemical to put on windshield to reduce temperature inside a car?" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="609" CreationDate="2013-04-05T09:24:29.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have an option to either use the custom installed hitch by Toyota or an aftermarket hitch. It's your choice. The after market hitch will help you tow even more weight maybe. Toyota of course will tell you that theirs is the best because they want you to buy it but the choice is dependent on you. I would go for the aftermarket hitch because they are easy to install and most come at affordable prices&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T09:58:56.440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T09:58:56.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2013-04-05T09:35:26.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can increase your trucks towing capacity. You just need to upgrade your axles, upgrade your hitch, have a trailer brake controller and a power programmer. make sure the weight you want to tow and the maximum vehicle towing capacity do not have a difference of 1,000 to 2,000 pounds because this means you need another vehicle. The power programmer will help increase your vehicle's horsepower therefore the vehicle can carry heavier load. upgrade the brake systems so that braking becomes even more powerful. upgraded axles will reduce stress on the drive train of your truck as you tow. The upgraded hitch should be able to handle the weight you want to tow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T09:59:29.223" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T09:59:29.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5764" CreationDate="2013-04-05T15:16:51.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any chemical or coating there may be products which claim to do this but I am unaware of any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can get clear vehicle tinting which reduce close to 100% of UVA and UVB light this can reduce heating and temperatures in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a one time application and you wouldn't have to worry about reapplying stuff every-time you wash your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.llumar.com/en/AutoSolarControl.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lumar Auto Solar Control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formulaone.com/en/UVShield.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ForumlaOne UV Shield&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T15:16:51.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6003" CreationDate="2013-04-05T17:49:58.697" Score="3" ViewCount="36411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to wire up my old truck to turn an electric fan ON to keep the radiator cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECM has an engine coolant temperature sensor mounted in the engine that alters the resistance to determine coolant temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the service manual, I have this data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITtTK.png&quot; alt=&quot;engine coolant temperature sensor output&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not see the pic above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;__Condition________________|_Engine coolant temperature decided&#xA;Just as ignition switch is | 20°C (68°F)&#xA;turned ON or Start_________|___________________________________&#xA;More than 6 minutes after  | 80°C (176°F)&#xA;ignition ON or Start_______|___________________________________&#xA;                           | 20 - 80°C (68 - 176°F)&#xA;Except as shown above______| (Depends on the time)_____________&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what would be the magic temperature to look for to turn on my fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set it to 80°C (176°F), the electric fan would always be ON after 6 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the truck has a 180°F Thermostat, should I be looking for 185°F before turning on the electric fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kisP.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T18:06:44.587" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T13:04:22.883" Title="What is the Magic ON temperature for Electric Fans?" Tags="|electrical|radiator|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5770" CreationDate="2013-04-05T21:11:47.667" Score="5" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the Escape was sitting in the parking garage for a couple weeks with the keys inside and no spare available (don't ask, this is a shared company vehicle with keypad entry). The keypad isn't working. I suspect the battery is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas how to get into the car? I was reading on a forum about popping the hood from underneath or trickle charging from an exposed positive wire. Where can I find an exposed positive wire under the Escape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2982" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T21:01:34.930" Title="06 Ford Escape Dead Battery Keypad Entry" Tags="|ford|battery|escape|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2013-04-05T22:32:29.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest thing to do is call a locksmith, or towing company, even some cab companies are doing this now. They have a kit that will let them unlock the door. It runs about $40 here, call and ask for prices because it can vary wildly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening the hood is possible, if you can get to the release cable but it's very difficult on most cars. Finding a wire to put power to is just to risky unless you know exactly what you are taping into. The positive side of the starter would be a good place for this, but it's going to be a PITA to get too it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T22:32:29.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T22:38:29.710" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;this 95 silverado 2500 diesel was going down the road and died. Now it will only crank but still won't turn over and now the glow plug light won't light up either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2984" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T03:44:05.297" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T03:44:05.297" Title="95 silerado 2500 diesel died and cranks but won't turn over" Tags="|troubleshooting|starting|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2013-04-05T22:41:34.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest although not the cheapest method is to call a tow truck. They do lockout calls quite often. The method needed to open the hood without the cable varies. It may require bumper and grill removal.  As @Larry has suggested call a tow service or find a 15 year old delinquent/hoodlum who will have the door open in less than a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T22:41:34.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T23:06:52.297" Score="3" ViewCount="29935" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 6 months ago, I had some preventative maintenance done on my car that included oil change,  plugs and wires. Within a week of running out of gas my car began &quot;stumble&quot; and idle rough. I ran injector cleaner through system and replaced fuel filter. The problem escalated to a new level when the check engine light began blinking. Trouble codes said multiple sensors needed replaced, and the no, 1 plug was misfiring. Plug was replaced..check engine light went off car ran great for about 10 minutes or maybe 10 miles. Now The &quot;stumbling&quot; is back as well as the &quot;check engine&quot; light. Could a sensor be responsible for this scenario ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2983" LastEditorUserId="2983" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T23:18:31.103" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:56:03.937" Title="what would cause the no.1 sparkplug to foul out 10 minutes after replacing it on a 1997 Buick 3.8 v-6 engine" Tags="|troubleshooting|cel|dtc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2013-04-05T23:18:12.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want your electric fan to always be on, that would seem wasteful albiet harmless ( every time the fan dropped the coolant temperature below 180 the thermometer would shut off the flow to the radiator ). If your ideal operating temperature is 176-180 I'd agree with setting your fan to turn on at 185, that way it kicks on whenever your coolant temperature starts to climb above that temp your fan can keep things in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T23:18:12.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5773" CreationDate="2013-04-06T00:01:05.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number one spark plug failure is caused by oil getting to the spark-plug through piston blow-by - this can be fixed with  new rings / pistons (oversize for best performance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2985" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T00:01:05.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5771" CreationDate="2013-04-06T00:04:24.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it isn't getting fuel - maybe a bad injector pump? - maybe bad injectors? - maybe the solenoid that controls the fuel on / off is stuck? - cant be 100% sure of anything but diesels do usually run unless they don't get any fuel.. (or if the compression is so low that it cant make the diesel explode...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2985" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T00:04:24.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5773" CreationDate="2013-04-06T03:32:33.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have new plugs and wires you may have a bad coil. Of course one of the new parts may be bad, not unheard of but unlikely. If the fuel injected into the cylinder isn't burned it passes into the exhaust system where the O2 sensor sees a rich condition that is outside the normal parameters and sets a fault code. You need to see if that cylinder is getting spark. Remove the plug wire from the spark plug. Insert a screwdriver in the cable end. Holding the screwdriver handle place the blade of the screwdriver near some metal part of the engine while an assistant cranks the motor for a few seconds. You should be able to see a spark arc from the screwdriver to the metal. You will want to do this test while the engine is hot. It isn't uncommon for coils to work for a short time then fail when it gets hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T03:32:33.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-06T10:04:06.723" Score="11" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow up question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5706/what-are-the-causes-of-fluctuating-intake-manifold-vacuum&quot;&gt;What are the causes of fluctuating intake manifold vacuum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda CBR600 F4i which suffers from occasional hesitation at low rpm when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a compression test on a hot engine I got the following results in psi before and after squirting some oil down each of the cylinders. The manual indicates that I should be seeing 178 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cylinder      1    2    3    4&#xA;Before       95   90   95   90&#xA;After       105  135  135  135&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs seem to indicate that the engine is running reasonably well, they are darkish grey. The engine doesn't blow smoke and always starts easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I've already identified that the intake manifold vacuum fluctuates between 5 and 20 cm Hg at idle, what is your interpretation of the above figures and what work would you recommend getting done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T06:17:38.723" Title="What do these compression figures mean" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|troubleshooting|compression|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5780" CreationDate="2013-04-06T14:08:48.950" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a used Nissan Micra (automatic transmission). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I depress the brake and change into D or R to move off, and then let go of the brake, the car starts moving off slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only had one other automatic car before and it didn't move until I pressed the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the manual it mentions that the cold-start idle speed is high and therefore caution should be exercised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the above explain what I am experiencing ie use caution because the car moves on its own?! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the car faulty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2986" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T14:28:41.280" Title="Automatic Micra moving on its own &amp; idle speed" Tags="|nissan|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2013-04-06T14:28:41.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not uncommon on automatic trans equipped vehicles. Since you didn't state how fast the car in moving it is hard to say if yours is normal. A slight creep forward is normal (5KMH) moving at anything faster  is a problem. If it is moving faster than that the idle may be set slightly high which would cause the car to move while in drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T14:28:41.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5790" CreationDate="2013-04-06T19:23:22.840" Score="4" ViewCount="1813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the spark plugs changed because my 2009 6 cyl. Jeep Wrangler (with 70,000 mi) was throwing code for a misfire. After the change, it doesn't run as smoothly as before.  It chugs and skips, but does not stall.  There are no warning codes showing up currently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this considered normal for a vehicle with newly changed spark plugs? If so, how long should I expect it to take until it runs smoothly again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T22:00:17.570" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:00:17.570" Title="Jeep Wrangler spark-plug issue" Tags="|jeep|sparkplugs|dtc|wrangler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4891" CreationDate="2013-04-06T19:58:02.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgot about this question.  Anyway, replacing the bulb fixed the issue, though unlike as Larry suggested, both filaments were intact.  Also unlike as Drake suggests, the bulb was of the correct model.  Still no idea what the cause was, but it's fixed now anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastEditorUserId="2478" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T15:24:33.423" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T15:24:33.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-06T22:26:22.693" Score="2" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;p&gt;From time to time I get a pretty noticeable honey-like aroma coming out of my vents. Although it smells like honey to me, a friend described it as &quot;old lady lavender&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Nissan Sentra with approximately 45k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the dealer perform an inspection, which included the cooling/radiator system. They did find and replace a cracked axle boot, but the smell persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is intermittent and I cannot reliably reproduce. Sometimes it occurs from a cold-start, other times I won't notice it until I'be been driving for 20 minutes. It doesn't seem to be related to the air temperature or if the AC is on or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have someone else inspect the radiator? What are other things that I should have inspected as possible culprits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2919" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T22:12:34.420" Title="What's That Honey Smell?" Tags="|nissan|smell|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5792" CreationDate="2013-04-06T22:32:24.240" Score="1" ViewCount="17764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some months after I had my scooter serviced I noticed oil splotches under my bike everytime I left if for a while in the one spot. The company that serviced the bike did numerous things wrong including getting a cable stuck in the throttle assembly (since been fixed). So I suspect that something they did during the service has caused the oil leak. The whole bottom of the engine is now coated in oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://memecode.com/temp/scooter/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://memecode.com/temp/scooter/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Said company won't obviously take responsibility for the leak and I'm a little short on cash, on top of that all the reputable companies in the area have waiting lists longer than a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm up for attempting to fix it myself. The scooter is not worth a whole lot anymore, so I don't have that much to lose :-|&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard from a friend that there is some sort of seal that has to be applied when the oil change is done? And if it's not changed you can get a slow leak like this? I've removed a lot of the panels so I can access the bike, but I can't see enough to know where the leak is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The engine has been degreased and the leak is between the cylinder block and the crank case. And that seems like it's just too hard for me to attempt at this point. And probably too expensive to pay someone else to do as well. I might have to put up with just filling it up with oil in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2990" LastEditorUserId="2990" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T03:44:38.023" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T08:23:37.697" Title="How to find and fix an oil leak on a Yamaha scooter" Tags="|oil-leak|scooter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5804" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:28:04.667" Score="15" ViewCount="42589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought myself a new car, and as expected the dealer is trying to sell me extra items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two options they are trying to push on me are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Paint Protection&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;nano technology paint protection &amp;amp; nano technology protection for the seats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are either of these options worth considering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thought is, the worst that can happen without it is I need to get the car painted again, which even if you use the amount the dealer charges as extra for the metallic paint, would still be a cheaper option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few extra details - The car is metallic black, live in Sunny Queensland but I have a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2991" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T16:42:19.190" Title="Is Paint Protection worth paying for?" Tags="|honda|paint|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:33:20.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a oil die to find your leak &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.truckpartsandservice.com/tracer-introduces-oil-leak-detector/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.truckpartsandservice.com/tracer-introduces-oil-leak-detector/&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;to fix your leak buy a new gasket / seal or repair the existing one with Oil Resistant silicon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2985" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T23:33:20.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:39:07.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure each cylinder and buy over sized pistons / rings to accommodate the sizes.. this will be your cheapest option because installing new liners and buying stock pistons is very expensive / allot of machining work. &#xA;If you don't have the time or money, keep driving it the way it is - if its not smoking bad you should get another 35k or more off of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2985" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T23:39:07.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2013-04-07T03:25:18.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a marketing gimmick. If you have a garage, and you plan on having a garage for some time to come, just keep it in said garage and your car will age well enough. Not to mention you live in Queensland, it's sunny there, right? Do they salt the roads? If they salted the roads I might consider paint protection, but otherwise not. Just take care of your car and your car will take care of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T03:25:18.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5781" CreationDate="2013-04-07T03:29:35.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine should run smoothly the second you change your spark plugs, smoother than before even, that's the whole point of replacing them. Otherwise, something else is wrong or was performed improperly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T03:29:35.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2013-04-07T12:48:59.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing you should do is get the engine nice and clean using some good quality degreaser, a brush and a hose to wash it down, this will make identifying the leak much easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everything is nice and clean take the scooter for a 10 minute ride, then have a another look. This time it should be much easier identifying the source of the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely your friend meant the sealing washer on the sump plug. This should be replaced whenever the oil is changed to ensure a good seal. I would also check to make sure the sump plug and the oil filter have been tightened correctly. Either of these could be the source of your leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your at it you might want to add some oil to your engine. By the looks of those photos it's leaking quite a bit of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T12:48:59.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2013-04-07T14:38:18.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow! Textbook case of worn rings. The oil helps seal the ringland area. That's a large increase on cylinders 2, 3, and 4. Your fuel efficiency should be pretty poor with those compression numbers. Is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fuel efficiency is miserable, it's time for a rebuild. Depending on the car it might be cheaper just to replace the engine with one from a engine supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can drive it until it dies, which may be years down the line as long as you don't have to worry about emissions or you don't care about fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to hand it to any new driver coming up in your family. They tend to wear things out anyway so it can't hurt to let them do it in a car with less to lose. Added benefit: less HP available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T14:38:18.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2013-04-07T22:12:34.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a heater core leak. A few drops blown into the vents will be aromatic and give a sweet-is smell. Telltale signs is moisture or staining on the passenger carpet, although a slight leak may not be visible. Sometimes a very difficult repair and other times not. Depends on the car. Google will know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T22:12:34.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" Score="0" Body="Compressed Natural Gas. An fuel that some engines use instead of gasoline. " OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T14:45:24.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5630" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:18:29.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a Civic NG or similiar. It's the same thing as trying to add 4WD to a 2WD car. It's just easier to buy the right one to start with. Financially you would never recoup the cost over buying a purpose built CNG car. Many automakers build them for fleet sales and the US Govt has a lot in the GSA fleet. These vehicles get sold at auction and sometimes have very low miles and you can be sure that they got an oil change every 3 months and all regular maintenance performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T15:18:29.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2013-04-08T17:30:28.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Want paint protection? Wash and wax your car. I wouldn't buy anything the dealer is selling as &quot;paint protection.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these treatments are typically very similar to products you can buy at a local auto parts store. The paint protection is almost certainly some kind of wax-like product, and the &quot;nano-technology protection&quot; for the seats is probably some kind of scotch-guard type product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T17:30:28.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5855" CreationDate="2013-04-08T19:34:22.853" Score="5" ViewCount="11573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with this vehicle overheating, presumably from losing coolant. The problem is very similar to what's described here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2285268/98-subi-coolant-overflow-tank-keeps-overflowing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2285268/98-subi-coolant-overflow-tank-keeps-overflowing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overflow tank fills up, and coolant spews out around where the host goes into the overflow tank. I'm well aware that this issue is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; caused by a blown head gasket, but I've run a test for combustion gasses in the cooling system and it turned up negative. I'm going to repeat it at least one more time in case the leak is sporadic, but I'd like input on whether there are other causes for this problem, and how to diagnose them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual details for overheating issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fans work fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no visible leaks elsewhere, but some of the hoses do look like they're in bad condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thermostat seems to be opening (coolant is clearly flowing, and I think the vehicle would overheat before the coolant level drops dangerously low if it weren't opening)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coolant is &quot;clean&quot; (no oil/sludge/etc.) but does seem to have a small amount of shiny metallic particles in it, suggesting maybe a stop-leak product was used by the previous owner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be something as simple as a bad radiator cap or hose to the overflow tank not allowing coolant to return properly? One thing I notice is that, after the vehicle has cooled down, there's a lot of suction (internal pressure lower than atmosphere) when I go to remove the radiator cap, but perhaps that's just because the coolant is low and the air gap between the coolant and overflow prevents the cooling of the fluid from pulling back the overflow...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I tried replacing the radiator cap and cleaning the hose to the overflow tank and the problem remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One odd thing I noticed is that that overflow tank is not sealed/pressurized at all. On every other vehicle I've seen, the host into the overflow tank went through the cap, and everything was (at least loosely) sealed so that some pressure would build up in the tank, which presumably aids return flow. On this vehicle, the hose just fits loosely through a hole in the overflow tank, and it's completely unpressurized. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I should mention that after the system cools, the radiator cap is very tight and difficult to remove. When I do remove it, I hear gurgling from the overflow tank. It &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; like there's negative pressure (lower than atmospheric pressure) in the cooling system before opening it, so my first guess would be a bad cap, but replacing it didn't help. Is there a good way I can test and make sure it's not actually still holding positive pressure in the system? That would definitely explain the return failure, but I don't have any good answer for why there would be positive pressure in the system after it cools. The obvious answer would be combustion gasses getting into the system, but I've run the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blockchek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Block Chek&lt;/a&gt; test again two more times and turned up nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T18:32:14.647" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T22:45:45.993" Title="Overheating &amp; coolant loss in 1998 Subaru Outback" Tags="|subaru|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5800" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:19:05.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;some of the hoses do look like they're in bad condition ... coolant is&#xA;  &quot;clean&quot; (no oil/sludge/etc.) but does seem to have a small amount of&#xA;  shiny metallic particles in it, suggesting maybe a stop-leak product&#xA;  was used by the previous owner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you've already called it: this sounds like a partially (or totally) clogged return from the overflow tank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm basing this assessment on your check for possible head gasket problems (so far, so good) and your remark about negative pressure in the radiator (so we'd expect coolant to return from the tank).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to rinse out that hose but, since you've already noticed old hoses, I'd recommend pulling the whole expansion tank and replacing the connected hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT to adapt to additional information in the question and the comment:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hose and tank seem clean then it sounds as if there is a clog further downstream.  I'm basing that assessment on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... the radiator cap is very tight and difficult to remove. When I do&#xA;  remove it, I hear gurgling from the overflow tank. It feels like&#xA;  there's negative pressure ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We expect negative pressure in the cooling radiator.  That's what should pull coolant back in from the expansion tank.  Unfortunately, it sounds like the negative pressure is fighting against something that's preventing that flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you've confirmed that the flow path is clear from the expansion tank back to the radiator (it sounds like you have).  If so, it sounds like it's time for a coolant system flush.  I'm expecting that you'll see a bunch of yuck in the flushed out coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T12:31:00.300" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T12:31:00.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:21:55.837" Score="6" ViewCount="181500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Kia Spectra 1.8, I have replaced the spark plugs, the alternator, and my battery is only about two months old. The car will start after a jump but it has to sit for about 10 minutes before the jump works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the alternator and the car started off of a jump and even started back up on its own. I wanted to drive to the auto parts store but the car started to die after only 10 minutes of driving. The lights started dimming, the radio kept cutting in and out and then windshield wipers started moving slowly. Then the car just shut off completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else to check before I take it to the shop and get charged an arm and a leg. Any help is useful. I'm new to the car thing so clear directions are the best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2999" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T13:24:33.723" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T17:16:20.900" Title="Car won't start or stay running after a jump" Tags="|electrical|kia|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:32:48.900" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery dies whilst driving, but you can jump it off another car, you want to look at the alternator first (possibly followed by the battery, the wiring and any large loads, because either your battery is not charging or something is draining it faster than the alternator can charge it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternator should give somewhere over 13 volts (often 14.5) to charge the battery; and a fully charged battery should also give you over 12 volts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T20:32:48.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2013-04-08T23:57:34.277" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacture provides a warranty on the paint and corrosion, and what they're selling you usually doesn't extend that. All of the dealers I have worked at sold some kind of paint protection and rust protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint protection was a wax job, a good one no less, but a wax job that you could get at a high quality detail shop for about $150, but they charged $795. They used the high quality professional grade supplies, just like the high quality detail shop uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rust protection was rubberized undercoat, the same stuff you can by off the autoparts shelf in spray cans. They used a commercialized system for spraying it on, same stuff that's in the can just a different delivery system that let's them do it in less time than if you were using spray cans. So it takes them less time and costs you $1295&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, don't spend the money. The money at a car lot is made in the F&amp;amp;I Office (Finance and Insurance) They really don't make much on selling the car, it's everything they add on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T23:57:34.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-09T04:33:04.560" Score="-2" ViewCount="13298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I upgraded to projector headlights I have been using 5000k xenon bulbs.  The bulbs I am using are mediocre eBay bulbs and I have been giving some thought to nicer Philips or Morimoto bulbs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I decide to get nicer bulbs what color should I go with?  I know that OEM bulbs are 4300k, but those look a little orange to me.  The 5000k seem very white but not as white as some of my 6000k flashlights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6000k should be the ideal color, but I always see that in those stupid &quot;HID upgrade kits&quot; that people put in Civics (no offense).  I feel like there is a reason that dealers use 4300k, but 6000k really should show all of the colors on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the safest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T16:15:39.450" Title="Which color headlight is the safest?" Tags="|headlight|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-25T20:09:40.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5807" CreationDate="2013-04-09T04:48:14.213" Score="10" ViewCount="1895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a bit of confusion on what I should do. If this is not the right place for such a question, I apologize and I will gladly kick myself out - just let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Accord EX 2000 for about three years with 181K miles on it. I was planning on selling the car - the Kelly Blue Book price was around $3500 but due to the body damage it has, it is about $2500 but I'm thinking I'll get maybe $1500 after all the bargaining process. Today, I went to a mechanic who evaluated the condition of the car and said that it would take roughly $650 to get the car into a very stable state where I can use it for another two years. The main problems found were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace rear brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace right upper control arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace valve cover gaskets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace power steering pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace left side axle seal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel alignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along a parallel line, I was looking to buy a new Honda Accord 2013 model. I have been sanctioned a loan of either $15K @2.79% APR for five years or $25K @3.75% APR for six years. The monthly payment would come to around $350-$450 with either financing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is this: I have a long road-trip coming in a month where I will have to drive roughly 8000 miles in three months (cross-country trip). Therefore, if I have to go on this trip, I should either get the car repaired @ $650 or sell this car at about $1500 and buy a new car. I am a bit hesitant in putting 8000 miles on a new car in 1-3 months but other than that, I don't really have a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend? Should I just go with a new car or should I invest $650, extend my current car's life by 1-2 years and then sell it off? Any advice would be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="754" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T02:26:49.790" Title="Should I buy a car or get my current one repaired?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2013-04-09T05:53:32.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about Hondas is that most of them retain their value relatively well. If $650 gets yours into good mechanical shape and you drive it and maintain it well for another one or two years you could probably still sell it for $1500 easily. So it seems that if you take that route you are netting yourself some money by going so long without a car payment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$400 a month isn't bad either though for a new model. But, whether you drive it 8000 miles or not it's going to depreciate very quickly for the first couple of years you own it. Whether you buy a new car now or a new car in two years there's really no way around it. It all depends on when you want that new car smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T05:53:32.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2013-04-09T06:11:55.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think safety only comes into play if you plan on speeding through the rain. If you live in southern California, it doesn't really matter. If you live in Seattle, maybe go with the 4000k so that you stand a chance of your headlights cutting through the rain. If I were you I would just stick with 5000k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T06:11:55.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2013-04-09T07:18:35.077" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at an electronic reason as to why the car is stopping. The car should start IMMEDIATELY when it is jumped and it should stay running. If it doesn't run after a jump, and the battery isn't bad, the something in your charging system isn't functioning properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the vehicle and leave it running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a multimeter and test across the poles on your battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are getting between 13.5 and 14.5 volts at that point, I would start turning on accessories and then testing again. If the voltage drops significantly and doesn't level off or rise, then you have issues with the alternator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the vehicle dies, then you have some type of issue with your charging system beyond the battery/alternator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, you may have to tow the car to a shop which specializes in foreign auto electrical systems and have them troubleshoot the issue for you. They probably won't charge that much and you can decide if it is something that you wish to do or something that you wish them to do for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3002" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T17:53:36.383" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T17:53:36.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9156" CreationDate="2013-04-09T08:58:13.527" Score="3" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a 2009 Audi A5 Quattro, and in looking underneath the car there does seem to be a place for a shaft to connect the front axle to the rear axle (which you would expect) but there doesnt seem to be any there... is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T14:56:41.560" Title="do all quattros have shafts connecting front and rear axles" Tags="|engine|wheels|audi|4wd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:14:45.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in the UK there is not VAT on used cars meaning that a new car loses 20% of it's value as soon as your new cars tyres touch the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fixing up the old car, well it's the cheapest option and like @hillsons said, it means you don't have monthly payments but will the car be reliable... difficult to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest finance deals on new cars are tempting I can see but there is also finance deals for used cars from certain dealers and these can come with equally decent finance rates, so that would be my advice. Go for a 1-2 year old car with a few miles on the clock but a lot more money in your pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T09:14:45.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2013-04-09T12:30:58.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was my car, I'd just fix it and carry on.  Buying a new car is very rarely a way to save money.  What buying new does is get you a little more peace of mind (probably more than one really should have given how many early failures I've seen on new cars).  Ultimately it's going to come down to what you're comfortable with and how much you want to pay to get comfortable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T12:30:58.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2013-04-09T13:19:14.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have thought the amount of additional information you'd get from the whiter bulbs would be negligable compared to the difference between halogen and HID lamps, and I would suspect that the more orangey bulbs would cause slightly less glare than the whiter/bluer ones, and would therefore be safer. That's purely speculation though... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T13:19:14.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:33:33.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The all of the &quot;super white&quot; headlights (which look blue-ish compared to normal headlights) are safety hazards for multiple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They have a much greater effect of blinding oncoming drivers -- and, if you have them adjusted improperly or use your hi-beams at inappropriate times, drivers in front of you two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;white&quot; light produced by these headlights is not actually white (equal in all frequency components across the visible spectrum), but mostly concentrated at the red and blue ends of the spectrum. This means, for drivers like myself who wear high-power corrective lenses, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_aberration&quot;&gt;chromatic aberration&lt;/a&gt; is extremely serious. Instead of seeing a single white point or a slight blur, when we see your headlights out the edge of our lenses, we see one red point and one blue point, with the distance between them being greater than the width of the headlight. In other words, your headlights look like police lights!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T16:33:33.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:48:46.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely fix it, but if you want to save some money, you could skip some of those repairs or do them yourself. My opinions on them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads. Let a professional do it unless you're comfortable working on cars. Brakes are important for safety and you don't want to screw it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upper control arm. Front or rear? What's wrong with it? My guess would be worn out bushings or ball joint. If it's not very bad you might could put off doing this. If you want to do it yourself, you definitely could, but it's a bit ugly, and you could end up with nasty problems like bolts breaking off or damaging a ball joint boot. If it really needs to be done, I'd let a professional do it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve cover gaskets. Replacing them on a Honda is so easy anybody can do it. Unless you have a bad oil leak though it's also not really necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power steering pump. I'm a bit surprised this is bad on such a new vehicle, and even more surprised you could get it replaced within that $650 budget. I'd ask more about what's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle seal. Not sure which seal they're talking about, but this is probably something you want to leave to a professional, if it needs to be done at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel alignment. This is also something easy to do yourself if you know how to perform a binary-search, but it takes a good bit of time/trial-and-error to do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I'm really surprised at the $650 estimate (it sounds very low for all that work, especially if it's including parts), but at the same time, I'm surprised some of those things already need service on a 13-year-old car. I would think the mechanic was trying to rip you off with unnecessary services if the quoted price weren't so low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, yes, keep the car. If it's borderline whether you can afford the service, do some of the stuff yourself, or get the important stuff done first and then space out the rest as you can afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T16:48:46.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2013-04-09T17:43:17.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer fix the car you have. Put the payment you were going to make ($400) a month in a savings account. If anything major happens to the car you are driving you have the money to fix it or replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the car may be less reliable than a new car, a Honda with 181K miles is still a safe bet. And if you follow my plan above you have the money in savings if anything goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be up front with any bias I might have. I don't borrow money to buy cars, I did it once about 20 years ago and they kept sending my a bill every month, I didn't like it so now I only buy cars with cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car is an expense, never an investment. There are exceptions if you are dealing with classics that are garage kept and not daily drivers, but that's not what your question is about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eay2V.png&quot; alt=&quot;Depreciation Infographic: How Fast Does My New Car Lose Value?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/how-fast-does-my-new-car-lose-value-infographic.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source:Depreciation Infographic: How Fast Does My New Car Lose Value?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people say the sweet spot is buying a car that's 2 years old because someone else payed for the 30% - 40% deprecation for the first two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at your situation more closely. You are considering buying a 2013 Honda Accord.&#xA;KBB for my area says the invoice is $23,307. A 2011 Honda Accord cost $22,038 (invoice) and is currently worth (kbb) $17,746 (30K miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this example we are going to say you get out the door paying $1500 over invoice this includes doc fees, delivery, dealer markup etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2011 Accord sold for new $23538 and is currently worth $17,746 for a two year loss of $5792 or 25%. Using this information we will assume that the 2013 Accord you will pay $24,807 and will be worth $18605 in two years. You lost $6202 dollars in two years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to lose $6000 to drive a new car then that's an option. I'd rather save the money a buy a less expensive car for cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIgLyl66QxQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video with more info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daveramsey.com/article/the-truth-about-car-payments/lifeandmoney_automobiles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Even more information here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought about this, if you buy the new car in my example in two years you will have spent $6000 on the car and still owe the bank a little over $17,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep your current car and save the $400 a month you'll have $9600 in the bank at then end of two years. Even if you spent $1000 on car repairs to your current car you still have $8600 in the bank &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T02:26:49.790" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T02:26:49.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2013-04-09T20:09:12.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the supplied answers it could also be a faulty crank position sensor. If the engine is cranking but not firing then check this. It will cause a car to run for sometime then slowly die as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T20:09:12.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-09T22:14:06.407" Score="6" ViewCount="25357" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has developed an annoying creaking sound when turning.  I'm trying to figure out what it is but I've hit the limit of my car knowledge now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2003 Mazda Pretege5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miles: 121K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creaking sounds like it's coming from more toward the center of the engine.  I started off by checking the tie rod ends.  I found the boot on one end slightly greasy but overall still intact.  I'll put that on the future repair list.  The other end looks fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I jacked the front end off the ground to remove weight from the wheels and rule out bad ball joints.  I got the same sound with the wheels off the ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner tie rod boots look fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what to look for next.  I'm pretty limited on tools though so I'm likely going to have to pay someone to fix whatever it is for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;  So a bit more internet research has turned up a lot of stuff about bushings and sway bars causing things like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;  I loosened both strut mounts and lifted both wheels off the ground.  Still creaks.  I gave a little pull on the passenger's side sway bar link and it make a very similar sounding noise.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3006" LastEditorUserId="3006" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T22:45:42.327" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:45:42.327" Title="Creaking sound when turning" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2013-04-10T04:34:51.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Alternator is not charging the battery. This can be verified by checking the voltage across the battery with the vehicle running less than 12.6 volts means you are discharging the battery. Since you've already replaced the alternator (it's possible it's bad) lets start somewhere else. There should be a 120 amp fuse between the alternator and the battery, if this is blown you can't charge the battery. An easy check for this if you can't find the fuse right away is with the car off you should have battery voltage at the big terminal on the back of the alternator, if not the fuse is blown or the wire is not connected properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T04:34:51.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5823" CreationDate="2013-04-10T14:03:53.077" Score="2" ViewCount="9118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may have to replace the fuel pump on my 2001 buick regal, and found a blog post &lt;a href=&quot;http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/howto/2010BuickFuelLevelSensor/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which was pretty detailed. The person who posted that weighed their float down with 12 gauge copper wire, apparently the new fuel pump had the same problem with the float as the one that needed replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is that a safe way to weigh down the float? copper wire conducts electricity and a conductor in my gas tank worries me a little bit. Also, what is the recommended way to fix a floating gas needle, if that person took the wrong approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T15:28:41.453" Title="What is an appropriate way to fix a floating gas needle, or weight down the float?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5818" CreationDate="2013-04-10T14:45:40.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe you should try to lubricate the rack and pinion and the base on which the steering system is mounted&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3M3ce.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T14:45:40.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5821" CreationDate="2013-04-10T15:28:41.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think weighing down the float is definitely the wrong approach - they're fixing the symptom (float not falling) rather than the cause (stiff pivot on the sender). It looks like the sender is easy to remove from the pump, so I'd try and make sure the sender moved freely through its full range of movement before fitting it - this may require lubricating the pivot, or adjusting it somehow to free it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T15:28:41.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5825" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:40:43.060" Score="12" ViewCount="48758" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, I've been a Subaru enthusiast for a few years but never been able to purchase one because I'm still a student. However, this summer I will be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that I need a reliable car and most-likely wouldn't be able to replace a blown engine. Subaru engines seem to blow up quite often but is it due to irresponsible owners or the engines are generally weak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm definitely going to get the car inspected and will get an engine compression test done to make sure cylinders are doing ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you guys had personal experience with Subarus or knowledge that would be worth sharing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I definitely would DIY some repairs but let's say that I don't have the resource to work on stuff like cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3008" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T14:45:06.477" Title="How reliable is a second-hand Subaru 2.5 RS 04-05?" Tags="|engine|subaru|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-04-27T16:37:48.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2013-04-10T17:13:13.557" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru engines have long been touted and praised for their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.truedelta.com/Honda-Civic/reliability-109/vs-Impreza-252&quot;&gt;reliability&lt;/a&gt; and longevity. The engines that seem to be blowing up all the time are almost certainly driven by enthusiasts trying to race as fast as they can up onramps and push their cars to the limit. ( Perhaps that's where the misconception is, if you're going to push your engine to the limit you need to be prepared to rebuild it. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have it inspected and can manage to drive your Subaru somewhat normally, it should last as long as you need it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:13:13.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2013-04-10T17:57:34.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru engines very rarely blow up. As someone who has owned many and raced a few, and been a member of various Subaru owner forums, I know of some that had problems, but it was almost never the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early Subarus had clutches that were a bit under-engineered, so typically they would be replaced at 75,000 miles, and you could kill brakes with a particularly energetic race day - but then you would replace them and all would be well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen a couple of turbos die - generally because they were badly treated. Not thrashed, but not allowed to cool properly after racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only engines I have heard of breaking were highly tuned ones (over 500bhp) and to be honest, that is pushing the construction of the engine far beyond its design parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:57:34.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5818" CreationDate="2013-04-10T20:23:46.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creaks, groans and other noises while turning can be a signal of something serious. If you are unsure of how to check ball joints the usual method is to raise the car by the lower control arm. Place a large prybar (think 3 ft crowbar) under the tire and rapidly pry the tire up. You are checking for movement between the steering knuckle and the lower controlarm. You should also check upper strut mounts. If you can't find anything you need to bring it to a mechanic you trust. Demonstrate the noise if can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T20:23:46.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2567" CreationDate="2013-04-11T02:08:48.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like something cut your cam sensor wires. The sensor  is right under the connector you found, you probibly need  to replace it or try to reconnect it, might be hard the wires are so short. You get no spark if that cam sensor is not connected.&#xA;Larry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3010" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T02:08:48.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5833" CreationDate="2013-04-11T10:20:16.860" Score="3" ViewCount="1796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking on fitting an after-market reverse parking sensors for my car, and I found 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electromagnetic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQHSn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Electromagnetic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultrasonic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtA3u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultrasonic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Electromagnetic doesn't require to make holes in the bumper, works at shorter distances and it seems cheaper, so it seems the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there any drawbacks with the electromagnetic sensors? Are they easy to fit or do I need to go to a garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T15:16:19.727" Title="Reverse parking sensors" Tags="|sensor|parking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5831" CreationDate="2013-04-11T13:08:44.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My worry about the electromagnetic one is that while it is good at picking up metal objects that you may hit, they aren't so good at organic objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultrasonic reversing sensors are good at detecting solid objects, but not so good at soft objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As solid objects are important to identify, whether or not they are metal, the ultrasonic sensors are, in my opinion, the best ones to install. They are also very cheap, so unless you have cost as an essential priority, ignore pricing as a factor here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most home fit kits make the placing of the sensors very simple - the small holes through the bumper are easy to do and will not impact the safety of the bumper in any measurable way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T13:08:44.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5831" CreationDate="2013-04-11T15:16:19.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a reversing camera instead. You can get the type that is mounted on the license plate and then you can either get a radio/headunit which supports backup cams or get a rearview mirror which has a backup display. Personally I would try to get a rearview mirror one. I think you can get the mirror for about ~$500 with the camera but I don't remember the exact price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the two options supplied I would probably go ultrasonic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T15:16:19.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T15:45:11.207" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen Craftsman Bolt-Out mentioned in several questions/threads about removing stuck or rounded-off bolts, a problem I've run into many times. There's no particular problem I'm looking to solve right now, but it's something I might like to buy and have on hand for the next time I hit such a problem. But first I'd like to know if anybody has experience with this tool, particularly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it work often?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you identify which stuck-bolt situations it's likely to work for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T16:34:20.423" Title="Craftsman Bolt-Out and similar tools" Tags="|tools|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T16:49:28.330" Score="3" ViewCount="7721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Camry with 86,000 mi the check-engine light came on 4 days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has come on intermittently in the past and then shut off itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time it hasn't gone away. A Code reader shows P0446, I have researched the code and found this; &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_does_OBDII_code_P0446_Evaporative_emissions_control_vent_circuit_low_mean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What does OBDII code P0446 Evaporative emissions control vent circuit low mean?&lt;/a&gt;  I read one of the potential fixes for this was a loose/malfunctioning gas cap - so I tightened the stock one and made sure it was tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That didn't fix it, so I bought a new gas cap and tightened ...  still didn't fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what else I may need and a rough guesstimate of how much it would cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, does this fail you on inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 4 cylinder, automatic transmission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will need to pass inspection in Pennsylvania, USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3013" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T17:55:07.507" Title="2000 Camry P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction" Tags="|cel|camry|evap|p0446|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6307" CreationDate="2013-04-11T17:51:50.187" Score="5" ViewCount="75633" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1998 Subaru Outback I've been having cooling system problems with turns out to have a combustion gas leak into the coolant. I suspected this but couldn't get a test to turn up anything; taking it to a good radiator shop, they were able to detect it. (pH test fluid in the block check kit turned from blue to green.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no other option I'll tear open the engine and replace the head gaskets (there are two because it's a boxer engine - bleh!) but I'd like to see if I can get by with a temporary fix for a while. The mechanic seemed pretty knowledgeable about this kind of issue, and when I asked him about using Blue Devil to seal it, he agreed it's better than the cheap leak-stop products, and gave it about a 50% chance of success. He told me he'd used it on one of his own vehicles and it worked, but overall sometimes it works and sometimes not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've bought a bottle and I plan to try it, but I want to make sure I follow best practices using it, especially since I've had clog/blockage problems with leak-stop products I used in the past. The procedure on the bottle is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flush cooling system. (done)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill system with water, leaving room for Blue Devil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start engine while cold and turn heat on max.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour product in slowly (30 sec for half bottle) then idle for 50 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test drive, let engine cool, re-install thermostat and refill with antifreeze mixture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why the thermostat needs to be removed? I plan to do it in any case. Is the reason to make sure the product circulates through the system before it gets hot? This seems to be the intent of step 4 requiring a cold engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, are there other things I should make sure I do right using this stuff? I want the best chance of having it work (I really don't feel like taking the heads off this thing -- take a look here for why: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yakX-GAV9uE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yakX-GAV9uE&lt;/a&gt;) and not ruining the radiator or heater core in the process (although those are lesser concerns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update::&lt;/strong&gt; I've used the sealer with some partial results. Idling, the coolant doesn't move into the overflow tank at all. However, I still have high pressure building up in the cooling system when driving the car. At least once, I got coolant to move back from the overflow tank into the cooling system after it cooled down, but most of the time it's staying pressurized basically indefinitely, indicating that there's still a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed in the comments, I tried running the car heavy to heat/pressurize it, then removing the spark plugs to try to get the pressure to force the sealant back across the HG towards the cylinders. (I later found this youtube video that recommends roughly the same thing: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL9QjN7AcW8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL9QjN7AcW8&lt;/a&gt; -- though I did not try actually &lt;em&gt;running&lt;/em&gt; the vehicle with spark plugs out) I expected pressure in the cooling system to drop when I removed the plugs, but it didn't. So it seems the leak is extremely intermittent and dependent upon temperature, pressure, or some other condition not always present, and this is making it really hard to get the sealant into the places it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on making it work? I'm thinking I might try running it with spark plugs removed, one at a time, or if I feel crazy enough even loosening one while the vehicle is running at high rpms... but unfortunately that's really difficult with the plugs way down on the sides...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-04-14T20:28:38.210" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T17:22:39.610" Title="Getting the best results sealing head gasket leak with Blue Devil" Tags="|subaru|cooling-system|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T22:55:57.313" Score="4" ViewCount="2603" Body="&lt;p&gt;My SL2 stalls (it just cuts out, no warning) shortly after warmup (this all started right after I topped off the coolant after a low coolant light came on, although I don't know if they are related).  After the stall there is no spark but all other electronics work and I need to wait at least 20 minutes before the car will start again.  I replaced the ignition module, but this did not fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3014" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T02:30:49.787" Title="2002 Saturn SL2 Stalls After Warmup No Spark" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|saturn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2013-04-12T02:15:22.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that it is the crank position sensor. My friends trunk had the same problem. It would start and run for maybe 10 minutes then sputter out and die and not be able start again for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned out to be a crank position sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T02:15:22.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5845" CreationDate="2013-04-12T02:21:54.107" Score="2" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I discovered that I have a small but a bit deep scratch on a rear door glass ( I have hatchback ). I am not sure how it happened but it is there now and it bugs me quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fix it myself via some sort of a repair kit? Or do I need to bring my car to repair shop? At this point I can't afford to replace the glass and would like to fix it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="2895" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T19:46:16.803" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T08:15:59.920" Title="How to fix scratched glass" Tags="|windshield|repair|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-12T08:13:35.687" Score="4" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Have a Datsun Safari 1983 2,8L petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was driving off road with it and the next morning the fan belt was making this squealing noise. So I adjust it and all was well. 300km later a new squealing sound started. It only occours when I drive over a speedbump or uneven surfaces and then I have to switch the engine of before this sound stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked  to see if it could be the fan belt again or the starter motor or radiator fan but no. The sound of the starter motor or loosen fan belt  is not the same and there is more than enough clearance between the radiator fan and its casing. My Datsun does not overheat or loose power when this sound starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I drive it now this squealing sound is triggered more easily and becomes louder and louder. It also doesn't leak oil or water. There is only a small leakage in the braking system but the squealing sound doesn't came from the brakes,even when I come to a complete stop this sound will continue while the engine is running. I can't locate the source of this high-pitched squealing sound and this sound is of a sort that I have never heard of before anywhere. Its like when you making a squealing sound while keeping your nose closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3017" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T10:11:02.627" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T17:21:27.547" Title="High-pitched squealing coming from engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-12T15:01:31.270" Score="6" ViewCount="91666" Body="&lt;p&gt;My windshield wiper will NOT clean anything off except for the ends.  My wiper arm was cracked at the bottom, so I replaced the entire arm.  While I was at it, I replaced the entire wiper.  Everything is brand new!!  And it still does not touch the windshield in the middle of the blade to clean it.  I am SO frustrated!!  I can't see at all in the rain!!  Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T19:51:52.723" Title="Windshield wiper only making contact on the ends of the blade" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2013-04-12T15:11:07.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you replaced the wiper, you may have inadvertently damaged or released the spring which pulls the wiper blade towards the windscreen. Depending on what type of car you have, this could be of various different types but you usually find it at the wiper pivot. When you try to pull the wiper away from the glass does it resist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is that you may have fitted the wrong type of wiper blade - have you checked it is compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look in the user manual to identify the spring or tensioner for your vehicle, and check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T15:11:07.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5839" CreationDate="2013-04-12T15:13:34.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various DIY solutions available, which will probably be appropriate for a side or rear window (for a front windscreen regulations are usually quite specific) and they apply a quick setting transparent gel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local Halfords or other car maintenance shop should stock this sort of thing. Vendors such as Autoglass can also do quick repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T15:13:34.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5839" CreationDate="2013-04-12T19:51:33.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently you can try regular buffing/polishing techniques similar to what you would do with paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However those can only be done on the outside of the rear window because you will damage your defroster element if the scratch is on the inside of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another DIY trick is to use clear nail polish to fill the scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T19:51:33.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2013-04-12T20:07:54.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had many contact issues with the OEM style metal frame wiper blades. They make the worst contact and are also the worst performers in snow/ice because the internal linkage instantly gets bound and clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to use a beam style wiper blade. They are more expensive but they work much much better. I use Trico NeoForm blades and they work great. If you are concerned about the price (it is recommended to change wipers every 6months) you can actually remove them from the vehicle during the dry seasons and throw on the stock crappers during that time to prevent the rubber from drying in the sun. You will get more mileage out of the wipers this way if you are willing to change them before and after your wet seasons. Doing this, I bet you could easily get 2+ years out of a set of high quality wipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First make sure the wiper arm is giving adequate downforce though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T20:07:54.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8647" CreationDate="2013-04-12T22:41:38.780" Score="7" ViewCount="136022" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem:  I try to start my car with the original factory key, as well tried with the other factory key (both have chips in them) and the car will start, run for a second then shut off.  All the while there is a green key symbol flashing on the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read online others having this issue as well.  One site turned up this information regarding a &quot;service bulletin&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Make : HONDA Model : CIVIC Year : 2006&#xA;Manufacturer : HONDA (AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.) &#xA;Service Bulletin Num : 09012005 &#xA;Date of Bulletin: SEP 01, 2005&#xA;NHTSA Item Number: 10018480 &#xA;Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM&#xA;Summary:&#xA;NEW IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM ON '06 CIVICS.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which provides me with no information at all.  Some sites mentioned disconnecting the battery cables and reconnecting after 20 minutes to cause a reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a unique situation to add to this problem everyone else is having.  I have aftermarket Viper Smart Start (remote start) and I am able to start my car fine with the remote start, put my key in and drive off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leads me to believe it is this &quot;immobilizer system&quot; is the issue as the remote start should be bypassing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive had my car for 7 years and this problem just started happening in the last 3 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if this is related but here is more info:&#xA;This is before the key light issue.  I had the car parked for winter.  Came back in spring and battery was dead, had to jump it and charge it.  I charge the battery and car starts fine all day, then the next day the car wont start - have to jump again.  This was repeating daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket stuff:  stereo deck + amp + speakers, backup sensors, second dry cell battery in the trunk, and one of those $70 devices that is suppose to keep your primary batter from dying because you left your stereo on too long - dont remember what its called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im not really sure where to start, honda dealership, stereo shop?  The battery is only 1 year old and they told me they wont replace it because they think the stereo caused a drain to the battery and I need to fix it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3023" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T23:05:36.760" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T23:05:36.760" Title="2006 Honda Civic EX - Green Key Light on dash" Tags="|honda|civic|warning-light|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5835" CreationDate="2013-04-13T01:47:56.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of things that can set this code, so it can be time consuming to figure out, and there are some special tools that make the job a lot easier. You can do it without the special tools, it's just going to take longer. The list below is what it takes to set the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When VSV for pressure switching valve is ON, ECM judges that there is no continuity between vapor pressure sensor, fuel tank and charcoal canister (2 trip detection logic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When VSV for pressure switching valve is turned OFF, pressure&#xA;in fuel tank is maintained at atmospheric pressure (2 trip&#xA;detection logic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When VSV for CCV is ON, pressure in charcoal canister and&#xA;fuel tank is maintained st atmospheric pressure (2 trip detection&#xA;logic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically anything leaking vapor inside the dotted line in the picture below will set the code. Check all the hoses represented in the picture below for leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwb6q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the three valves could be bad as well, and can be checked with a DVOM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/snd27613/2008-09-05_184630_p0441.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I have found more info here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T01:47:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2013-04-13T02:46:57.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you stated that you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to wait for it cool before it will run again is an indication that the crankshaft position sensor has failed. You should have a look at how to replace it on your vehicle. It's usually found on either the transmission bell housing (reading off of the flywheel as it rotates) or near the crank pulley at the lower front of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be 100% sure (I already am), then you could remove the sensor, and hook up an ohm meter and check resistance in the sensor. While watching the reading get a blow dryer and heat the sensor (don't melt it). While heating it, you'll notice the resistance begin to increase. This is normal since adding head to a circuit will increase resistance. Watch the meter's output closely. It will eventually show OPEN. It may only just flash OPEN for a second but at this point, the vehicle has stalled. With the crank sensor signal lost the engine's control systems have lost it's idea of where the engine is in it's &quot;timing&quot; (there's much more to it, just trying to explain it a simple as possible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T02:46:57.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-13T05:45:00.280" Score="8" ViewCount="5539" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be an involved question so bear with me. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX (4cyl) with 281xxx KM, and last week I was told by my mechanic that the harmonic balancer is warped.  And in fact, when the engine is running you can see the crankshaft pulley wobbling rather violently way down there.  I would say the wobble is approx.  5-8 mm off-center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on having the harmonic balancer replaced very soon (as well as the T-belt, water pump, front main seal, and valve adjustment), but I am very worried that my crankshaft has been warped, or hairline-fractured, by the unbalanced &lt;em&gt;balancer&lt;/em&gt;.  The problem has been present for at least three months I think...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has no rust, no slipping and doesn't burn oil or coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any speculation or experience here to give me?  Is there &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; way to check for a warped crankshaft without taking apart the bottom end?  How screwed am I? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any clarification to be provided, let me know.  Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: The car is going in on Thursday and I will report back after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="2589" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T19:35:45.193" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T16:20:25.080" Title="What is the likelihood that my crankshaft is warped?" Tags="|engine|honda|belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2013-04-13T20:03:56.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking the run-out of the crankshaft is pretty straight forward. A dial indicator is temporarily mounted to a fixed point close to the crank. The indicator arm is set to touch the crankshaft. While turning the crankshaft by hand you will get a reading on the indicator of how many thousands of an inch the crankshaft is moving off of center. Your mechanic should be able to do this test once the harmonic balancer is removed. At that point you'll make a decision. Evaluate the rest of the vehicle. Is the transmission slipping, headgasket leak, rust issues? Is it worth putting more money in it than is needed to just get it running again. If the crank is out of spec do you just replace the balancer and run the engine until something breaks. Or rebuild the bottom end of the motor or replace the motor.  If the crank is out of spec by a small amount I would replace the balancer and see if the motor runs smooth. Then do the timing belt and waterpump. If it seems ok I would drive until something else breaks.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T20:03:56.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33612" CreationDate="2013-04-13T20:09:40.693" Score="2" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an after market service manual for a my new polo? I have already tried haynes but it's not available for my model I need it before I start messing around with the electrics. I want to attempt to fit a keyless entry system with alarm. My dad and my brother in law have one so I feel left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T23:37:17.497" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:07:02.357" Title="2012 POLO 1.2 S hatchback service manual?" Tags="|vw|repair|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2013-04-13T20:25:06.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throttle cable was recalled sometimes sticks and dealer is supposed to replace and not charge. Call your dealer to find out about recall of part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3024" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T20:25:06.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2013-04-13T21:31:03.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Dodge Challenger SE (V6).  The compression is 10.5-1.  I used 87 octane for awhile and then switched to 89.  My performance improved and my MPG went up by 2 miles in city driving and 3 MPG on the highway.  I have stayed with 89 octane since.  It has always been told to me that the higher the compression ratio of the engine required a higher octane.  This seems to be true with this car as the cost per mile is now lower overall.  I am currently running the test on the wife's new 2013 Chevrolet Equinox that has even a higher compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T21:31:03.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5800" CreationDate="2013-04-13T22:45:45.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure ended up being positive, not negative - it was not very extreme with the vehicle cool and hard to tell the direction, and I just observed the hissing/gargling sounds. So I took it to a radiator shop I trust and they redid the combustion leak tests, apparently better than I did, and found that the problem is combustion gasses in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to seal the system with Blue Devil, and not too hopeful about it working, but in any case I opened a new question about using it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5836/getting-the-best-results-sealing-head-gasket-leak-with-blue-devil&quot;&gt;Getting the best results sealing head gasket leak with Blue Devil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T22:45:45.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T13:54:31.923" Score="3" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Fiat Punto 2 1.2 with LPG (sequence, stag 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is problem with the injection on the 1st and 4th cylinders. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. 2nd and 3rd work without problems. It does not matter whether it is running on gas or lpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clues what may be wrong? Where is the fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3026" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T09:59:28.110" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T06:14:57.847" Title="Why there is no injection on 1st and 4th cylinders in Fiat Punto?" Tags="|engine|fiat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T14:49:08.393" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a good and trusted service that provides car history reports (mainly for MB cars 1990+ models). I heard about these companies recently and I would like to know more about them. I'm going to make a subscription since I have a lot cars that I need to check the history of (accidents, condition, ...). I would also like to know the advantages and disadvantages, any advice are welcome. If anyone here is currently subscribed to one of these services, may I know what kind of information do they supply and what is the fee range? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3027" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T09:56:16.473" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T09:56:16.473" Title="What is a good online service for getting Mercedes Benz car history reports?" Tags="|maintenance|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-04-07T21:01:01.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T20:00:56.057" Score="4" ViewCount="4677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out the size of wire I need to get for my new, 160 amp, alternator.  I found this chart which shows the resistivity/length of different wire gauges.  Chances are that I will not be using 160 amps but I want to make sure that my wiring is adequate in case I ever draw a large amount of current. If I need 4 feet of wire between my alternator and battery what size would be the safest?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the difference between chassis wiring and &quot;power transmission&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MhCy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(source): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T12:20:48.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T12:20:48.083" Title="Alternator Upgrade: Sizing cable to battery" Tags="|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5858" CreationDate="2013-04-14T20:57:04.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually much simpler than that chart implies. Don't worry about ohms per thousand feet - for a four foot length this will be very very low. What is more important is the maximum current a wire is rated to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here the question is whether you will want the OO gauge as it is rated to 190A in the power transmission column, or the 2 gauge as it is rated to 181A in the chassis wiring column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - a quick bit of research, that also agrees with Mike's answer: The chassis wiring column is the relevant one, so go for the 2 gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not 100% sure exactly what they mean by chassis and power categories in this context, to be honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T10:38:27.367" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T10:38:27.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T22:19:51.897" Score="4" ViewCount="11271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 honda civic, and the car battery went dead on me.  I didn't have a jumper cable with me, but I had a car battery charger.  So, I hooked it up to the battery and tried starting the car.  Unfortunately, it didn't seem to give it a jump.  Without recharging the battery completely, I was soon able to get a hold of some jumper cables and tried giving it a jump start.  But now, even with the jump start, The car won't turn over... The electricity certainly comes on but when I turn the key, the dashboard lights (spedometer, etc.) flicker on and off rapidly and the engine makes a flickering noise, but nothing nearly close to the normal sound when I start the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still in the process of charging the battery, and I can't test it out yet.  But did I just fry my electrical system?  Is there any way to know for sure without taking it in to the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1838" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T04:09:45.577" Title="Electrical problems due using battery charger as a jump starter" Tags="|electrical|honda|battery|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5864" CreationDate="2013-04-15T01:34:21.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put LED turn signals on my Jeep.  Now my jeep thinks that the lights are burned out (which I was expecting).  I ordered some 6ohm resistors so the car will think that there is a light plugged in.  I would preffer not to use the load resistors because that would sort of defeat the purpose of having LED lights (using less electricity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can reprogram my Jeep so that it does not flash quickly and stops showing the &quot;burned out turn signal&quot; warning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T16:02:34.330" Title="Can I reprogram my car for LED turn signals?" Tags="|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5863" CreationDate="2013-04-15T02:20:41.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need to change the flasher unit to match the load of the LEDs. If you can't find a custom part specially made for this, I suspect you can do it by replacing a capacitor inside the unit. This should fix the flashing rate, but I'm not sure whether or not it would fix the indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, since this is just a turn signal, you might just be better off with the resistor. The electricity usage is pretty irrelevant unless you drive with your turn signals on all the time. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T02:20:41.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2013-04-15T02:28:19.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, I don't think you fried anything. All that's happening is that the electrical system can't supply enough current to power the starter motor, so the voltage drops when it tries to. The &quot;clicking&quot; sound is the starter solenoid. When the voltage drops from trying to operate the motor, the solenoid (big relay) no longer has sufficient power to keep it actuated, so it clicks back to the off position. Then, the voltage returns to normal (because it's no longer under load) and the cycle repeats. If you ever played with beginner electronic kits, you probably made buzzer/clicker circuits with the relay; it's the same principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If things don't work after charging the battery for an hour or so, your battery is probably dead and needs to be replaced. If the charger you're using is a high-amp one that's supposed to be capable of starting, and you were using it on the high-amp setting, then you almost surely have a bad battery. In that case, it might be possible to start the car with the battery terminal removed (using just the charger) then reconnect the battery just to get to the shop and replace it, but if you have any other means of transportation, I'd avoid driving a car that you can't reliably restart if it stalls. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T02:33:31.380" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T02:33:31.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T07:18:03.400" Score="3" ViewCount="3523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured the voltage of the battery without the key in the ignition and it's 12.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I insert my key and turn on the ignition the electrics work fine, the headlights come on etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key there is a whirring / faint grinding noise for as long as I have the key turned. When I'm looking at the RPM gauge I can see it occasionally turn to around 1,000 but then drops down to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I can hear any clicking, but I've never noticed one before either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3031" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T03:47:00.960" Title="My 2009 Vauxhall Corsa D Won't Start" Tags="|electrical|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" Score="0" Body="Italian carmaker, mainly known for small city-cars. Quite popular in the European markets." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:01:10.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding Volkswagen's popular family Hatchback." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:05:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5867" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:28:18.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like the starter motor not engaging, which probably means the solenoid (the bit that ought to be clicking) is sticking or has failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it looks like the Corsa's starter is right up under the back of the engine, which makes it awkward to get to for testing... Can you get a helper to turn the key while you listen to the engine to work out where the whirring noise is coming from - if it is the starter it'll be coming from low down behind the engine. If it's coming from the engine itself then you've got a bigger problem, but I would expect that to be louder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sticky solenoid can quite often be sorted short-term with a bit of percussive maintenance (i.e. hit the starter with a rubber mallet), but will eventually require the starter to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:28:18.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T11:58:05.670" Score="3" ViewCount="2336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously this question is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2997/how-to-improve-fuel-economy-in-high-mileage-car&quot;&gt;How to improve fuel economy in high-mileage car?&lt;/a&gt; except I am asking specifically about automatic transmission car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car still delivers lots of power/acceleration but the fuel consumption is very high. &lt;strong&gt;Maybe this is a naive question&lt;/strong&gt; but could I somehow set up the automatic transmission software to trade power for fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is 2004 Ford Mondeo XL 2.0 Petrol and fuel consumption is cca 15 liter per 100 km (15.7  MPG) in a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1779" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T13:14:08.393" Title="Improving fuel economy in high-milage automatic transmission car" Tags="|automatic-transmission|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5856" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:33:39.723" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with you exact model so it may be different. All of the cars I am familiar with don't run LPG through the same injectors that are used for gasoline. The LPG has an entirely separate fuel delivery system. What makes you say the injectors aren't working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect, again based on the models I am familiar with that you have a spark problem not a fuel problem. If the spark plugs for 1 and 4 share a common coil that's the first thing I would check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T14:33:39.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5858" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:58:53.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; guide. For 160amps you probably want at least a 2 gauge (as seen in power&amp;amp;ground cable specs) but you could probably get away with a 4 gauge run if it is short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T14:58:53.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5863" CreationDate="2013-04-15T15:10:16.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They sell resistor ballasts just for this application. Apparently you got a cheap kit if they did not include them. You have to put a big resistor with heatsink inbetween the LEDs and the power from the flashers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look around for LED resistors they shouldn't be too hard to find and adapt to your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T15:10:16.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2013-04-15T15:20:38.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes depending on the vehicle you can get either chip or OBD port tuners. You can get a tuner to change the automatic shift points of your vehicle to be lower rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have to drive nice though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T15:20:38.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T18:00:57.397" Score="7" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring an engine and am unable to locate 3 gearbox bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Identifying mark is either IXO or IKO. It is a needle roller bearing type and sits RHS crank case 1/3rd gear shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark clearly shows 8304NX2, I think NTN is the manufacturer. I think this standard bearing type is called a groove bearing, anyway it sits on main sprocket/output shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark appears to be Koyo 15 NQ2410D. Bearing sits LHS crank case 1st gear shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've managed to locate all the other bearings, except these three.  I'd appreciate any advice or help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T06:08:16.957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:41:58.170" Title="Yamaha YZ125K 1983 transmission bearings" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2013-04-15T19:07:54.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a guess... but you could have a stone caught between the fan belt pulley and housing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3033" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T21:46:21.637" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T21:46:21.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2013-04-16T03:45:55.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried contacting a large bearing distributor. Here in Australia I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conbear.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CBC Bearings&lt;/a&gt; in the past to obtain transmission bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T03:45:55.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-16T13:33:17.650" Score="8" ViewCount="22960" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little background information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 1993 Ford Mustang LX [2.3L I4], 5-speed T5 transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the car a few months ago, according to the previous owner the clutch was replaced fairly recently. I have no paperwork on this, and I can't speak towards the quality of the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said: the car drove just fine. The pedal has been very stiff since I got the car, and the clutch disengages at the floor, pretty much, but I wrote that off as &quot;old car.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pulling into a parking spot, I go to fully disengage the clutch so I can stop the engine. -- There was a loud &quot;snap&quot; and the car jerked into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slammed on the brakes, killed the engine, and had a flat bed tow it to my friend's house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we know: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clutch quadrant doesn't seem to have failed; but the self-adjusting mechanism seems to be at the end of it's ratchet. (You can't pull the pedal &quot;back&quot; like you're supposed to, and it doesn't ratchet when you push down.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cable itself &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; OK. The clutch fork is exposed, you can see the cable move [as well as the fork] when the pedal is pushed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pedal provides almost no resistance; &lt;em&gt;however&lt;/em&gt; it does return when you let your foot off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pedal provides some resistance at the end of it's travel, but I think this is the spring of the clutch adjusting mechanism providing some resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the pedal at the floor, the clutch isn't disengaged. (At least, not enough to roll the car.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car is &lt;em&gt;in gear&lt;/em&gt;, and can be held in place by the transmission [on a short incline, no less]... so I assume the clutch plate is still in contact with the flywheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likely culprits were a failed cable, or a failed quadrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both seem OK at first glance, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, it really looks like I have to bite the bullet and tow it to a garage so I can put it up on a lift. Is there anything else I can check before I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T16:12:00.350" Title="Clutch pedal no longer provides resistance, clutch won't disengage, what likely failed?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5881" CreationDate="2013-04-16T14:19:09.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like something went wrong with the pressure plate... Diaphragm spring snapped or something? Never heard of it before but anything is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might as well replace it and make sure the slave cylinder/throwout bearing are properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T14:19:09.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2013-04-16T21:35:35.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you asked for personal experience, here it is :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Impreza WRX and I absolutely love it.  I bought it new and tried my best to maintain it well.  Oil changes, regular maintenance etc. were done on schedule or about as close to it as I can.  I had some problems with it during warranty period: had to replace gearbox, driver window seal and main brake cylinder(?).  Since then it was running perfectly fine and I never had any issues with engine or turbo.  And as far as the gearbox problem - no, I didn't run it into the ground :), something simply broke and needed fixing (that last sentence will tell you how mechanically inclined I am :)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm closing on 90,000 miles on it and it looks like I'll be able to drive another 90 or more without too much trouble.  In my opinion, it runs almost as well as it did in the beginning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3037" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T21:35:35.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4820" CreationDate="2013-04-17T21:13:05.453" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive it for no more than 50 miles each trip no more than 45 MPH. Reason is because it will get hot and blowout. My tire warranty says the tread life is 3,000 miles. I'm reading all over that they are only good for 100 miles. That is false. Check your warranty or owners manual. Regardless of the miles, if its more than 6 years old it is no good. They do have a shelf life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3039" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T21:13:05.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2013-04-17T22:13:30.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue on an 04 F150 Lariat. After many trips to Ford dealer. Came to find out clutches in limited slip diff were worn out. 4wd, always used 2wd. Replaced the clutches in rear end and had no more issues. I was told tires at first as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3040" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T22:13:30.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5899" CreationDate="2013-04-17T23:54:59.380" Score="3" ViewCount="1573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Mazda Tribute. I'm not entirely sure what the problem is with the vehicle. I suppose it could be the alternator or just a dead battery, but could also be something more detailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a battery jumper that I keep in my car, and I have been connecting it to my battery every time I wish to start the car. When I'm in the car and I drive around (for a mile or so) I can turn the car off and then start it up again quickly, but after about a minute there's not enough juice to get it started anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition would lead me to believe that this means the alternator isn't the problem and it is a dead battery. I'm concerned that it could just be left over electrical energy sitting in the system that restarts the car and not a charge being restored to the battery by the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3041" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T21:55:16.187" Title="'03 Mazda Tribute needs jumped every time it starts" Tags="|battery|mazda|starter|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5887" CreationDate="2013-04-18T01:14:24.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should do a load test on your battery and see if you have a damaged cell. If this is not the case, check for a parasitic draw test on your vehicle, which basically tells you if something is on and draining your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T01:14:24.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-18T02:24:59.293" Score="5" ViewCount="51779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some low speed vibration in my car. I feel it more in my butt than feet/hands. It happens while braking or driving. It disappears at higher speeds +25 mph. Because it doesn't affect the steering wheel, I guess its not an alignment issue. Since it goes away at high speed I guess its not a balance issue. &#xA;Tire shop guy said that it could either be a bad shock or that one of the belts in a rear tire is starting to go. At high speed the wheel expands and stretches out the belts so the vibration goes away. He felt the rear tires and didn't notice anything out of ordinary. He said it might be only slight belt damage. Does this sound right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its gone on ~1000 miles. I've probably hit a million potholes. I live in Pittsburgh =(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't really locate the vibration's origin position in/around the vehicle (back/front, driver/passenger). I'll try&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its a 2007 VW Jetta 2.5L, with 50k miles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its not a function of engine speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is more noticeable at high speed than I initially thought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So its probably a balance issue. I'll report back after a visit to the tire shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T20:09:22.967" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T16:57:35.637" Title="low speed vibration, not in the steering" Tags="|tires|vibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5891" CreationDate="2013-04-18T05:32:12.410" Score="9" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit theoretical question, maybe viable for a wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you want to buy a 10yo car and among available deals you see one with suspiciously low mileage (e.g. 5'000 km). Seller assures you that the car was bought for his parents and spent 95% time in garage, ideal condition exterior, but no service brochure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the clues that could indicate the real car mileage if it was spoofed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T14:38:24.677" Title="What clues are there to identify real mileage?" Tags="|buying|used|car|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2013-04-18T08:14:09.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll make this a wiki answer so others can add to it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first and most obvious thing is the old saying &quot;if it looks too good to be true, it probably is&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the condition of the interior, particularly the driver's seat and steering wheel. Does the pattern of wear match what you'd expect for the stated mileage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paperwork - do they have anything to back up their claims? In the UK, the mileage is recorded at each year's MOT (roadworthyness) test, so that's usually a good reference. Again, if they've 'lost' the paperwork, be suspicious (in recent years they have computerised the MOT system, so you can look up the last few tests for a car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd avoid a very low milage car just as I'd avoid a very high milage one. Cars don't generally like sitting around for long periods unused - rubber parts perish, things sieze and stick, etc. Go for a decent, honest, average-miles car that looks like it has been looked after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T08:14:09.337" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-18T08:14:09.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2013-04-18T15:04:55.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull off the air cleaner ductwork and look at the throttle body plate. If it has a black carbon buildup on it, you can be sure it's been driven much more than 5000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more scientific results, try sending an oil sample to a company like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackstone-labs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackstone Labs&lt;/a&gt;. They'll look at the wear characteristics and amounts of trace materials in the oil, and can often tell how much use it's seen based upon which materials are in the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that they'll be able to verify their low-mileage claim through a service like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carfax.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carfax&lt;/a&gt; as well, but many dealerships and service shops choose not to submit information to Carfax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree with Nick C though. Engines fare much better when they're used regularly. An engine that sits for long periods doesn't circulate oil to all the internal components of the engine, and as the oil settles back into the oil pan, components can begin to rust. As a general rule of thumb, an engine that hasn't been driven in a month is at risk of breaking down. I would lean toward a well-maintained, well-documented, regularly-driven vehicle instead of a 'too good to be true' low-mileage vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3045" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T15:04:55.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2013-04-18T15:35:26.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like one of your pulleys is not securely mounted, and gets jostled into a position that causes it to bind when you go over a bump. Turning the engine off releases tension on the belt, which allows the pulley to return to its original position. Ensure that all the pulley bolts are torqued to the appropriate specifications (in the factory service manual). Try removing the belt and pull each pulley to check for looseness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that there is internal binding, possibly with the water pump or oil pump. The intermittent nature of the problem makes me hesitant to blame anything internal for this problem, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also entirely possible that the belt needs to be replaced. Since that's the simplest and least expensive option, start with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3045" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T15:35:26.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5863" CreationDate="2013-04-18T16:02:34.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your Jeep has the same sort of clicky flasher that most cars do then you will need to add the resistor to make the circuit work.  The reason is that the flasher is based on a thermal mechanism, it actually heats up a small wire that then twitches to break the circuit.  When it cools it relaxes and closes the circuit this then repeats to make the flash.  The reason that it blinks faster is that without the load from the resistor (the bulb originally) the heating happens faster, so to slow things down you need to add the load back into the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to save a few electrons by leaving out the resistor, I suspect that you are losing any gains in the extra heating in the flasher.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T16:02:34.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5881" CreationDate="2013-04-18T16:12:00.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what we figured out after a few days of resourceful tinkering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch cable was not &lt;em&gt;broken&lt;/em&gt;, but it was very worn. The cable was likely binding up, and I'd venture to say it was stretched. -- Replacing the clutch cable made the pedal &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; lighter; it also disengages farther from the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A worn clutch cable is putting a lot of strain on the stock quadrant [the plastic piece that adjusts cable tension; attached to the pedal assembly]. -- This was causing our quadrant's ratchet to slip. -- The loud &quot;pop&quot; was the sound of the teeth rapidly disengaging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ratchet slipping effectively wore out all the teeth. We now have a worthless quadrant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After &lt;em&gt;gluing&lt;/em&gt; the quadrant into place, we are able to fully disengage the clutch, and drive the car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All we did was wet the two halves of the quadrant (where the teeth are) w/ a damp cloth, apply gorilla glue, set the quadrant where we wanted it, and the pedal itself provided enough clamping force for the glue to cure properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We put a space heater by the pedal assembly because it's far too cold outside for this glue to cure properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about an hour we were able to drive the car again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting a stronger-than-stock quadrant. You can get aluminum ones and a firewall adjuster. This way you can still manage cable-slack w/o relying on an old plastic piece that's difficult to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your Mustang's clutch pedal loses tension suddenly: replace the cable and quadrant in one go. (The cable is only $20, and it's probably why your quadrant failed in the first place. -- The quadrant itself is about $40-60+ depending on which one you get.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="838" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T16:12:00.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2013-04-18T18:44:08.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were the tires ever changed? Does it have original equipment brand/model/size tires? Are the tires bald or overly worn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the tires look ten years old? Tires should only really last about 5 years and driving on them at ten years old is probably very dangerous. If you end up purchasing the vehicle and you think they are the original tires, change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T18:44:08.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5553" CreationDate="2013-04-18T19:21:53.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start by checking Fuse#34 (20A) in the driver side underdash fusebox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fuse is fine I'd investigate voltage @ the release solenoid itself. Looks like the white/green wire should get 12V when trunk pop is activated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that signal is good you may have a bad solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3046" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T19:21:53.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2013-04-18T19:28:28.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely sounds like immobilizer system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The r/s interface handles that and apparently does so successfully. So we know the immobilizer system in the car works if supplied the correct information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These seem like the likeliest possibilities to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keys somehow got dumped from programming, not a common issue with Hondas and not something that occurs easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The immobilizer control plug came unplugged from the key cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some reason the r/s bypass is &quot;active&quot; when it should be at rest and it's signals combined with the key are freaking the car out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blown fuse #23 (10A) in underhood fusebox. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your r/s install is still under warranty I'd be trying to get to those guys so they can investigate further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3046" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T19:28:28.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5887" CreationDate="2013-04-18T21:55:16.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly sounds like a dead (or dying...) battery. Voltage measurement here would be crucial. From what I'm hearing I'd venture during crank you'll see less than 10V DC on that battery. That's a definite indicator to replace the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the alternator also be part of the problem? Surely, it could.&#xA;If there's an excess current draw could that be what's actually taking the battery out? Yep. &#xA;(Either way the battery you have now is likely no longer useful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the battery, then look at alternator, and on to standby current draw tests if you're still having problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3046" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T21:55:16.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5901" CreationDate="2013-04-19T19:46:44.217" Score="5" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I last replaced them with the plugs about 4 years/60-70k miles ago. I bought platinum plugs I if I remember correctly, so I still got some life on those. The car (2001 Buick Regal) is still in good shape just due for a tune up, so if the wires are due to be changed I'll add those to the list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-04-20T05:36:10.933" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T23:56:00.643" Title="How often should spark plug wires be replaced?" Tags="|engine|ignition|scheduled-maintenance|sparkplugs|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5900" CreationDate="2013-04-20T02:03:05.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the 2001 Buick Regal service manual (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpc.3cdd.edgecastcdn.net/003CDD/Dugan/Owner%20Manuals/Buick%20Owners%20Manuals/2001-Buick-Regal.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) spark plugs wires should be inspected at 100K miles, and replaced if necessary (p. 7-15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T19:24:38.117" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T19:24:38.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5906" CreationDate="2013-04-20T06:02:34.727" Score="12" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 92 Civic has very old spark plug wires, probably original, but their resistance is in-spec (under 20k ohms), they have no external damage, and the vehicle has no misfire or other symptoms associated with bad wires, aside from having worse gas mileage than it used to. Is there any reason to replace them? Would doing so perhaps get a more optimal spark timing or stronger spark, more-complete combustion, etc.? Or are those claims just made up to sell wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T22:00:11.500" Title="Is there a measurable benefit to replacing spark plug wires?" Tags="|honda|civic|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5904" CreationDate="2013-04-20T06:19:28.163" Score="9" ViewCount="150778" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jeep's stock wiring has two ground cabled coming from the negative terminal.  I recently upgraded all of my positive cables, and now I'm on to the negative.  Is it necessary to have one cable going to the engine, and one going to the frame - or would one large wire going to the engine, since the engine is connected to the frame, work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="2274" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T05:44:00.140" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T22:47:11.443" Title="Is it necessary to have two ground wires (1 to engine and 1 to car-frame)?" Tags="|wiring|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2013-04-20T10:16:54.273" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame ground is needed. Although the engine is bolted to the frame all the connection points are isolated hence insulated by rubber. The reason for the rubber mounts is to isolate the engine vibration and the resulting stress from the frame. Some older vehicles did use a single ground to the block. This required a second ground wire from the block to the frame or chassis. A possible reason for the switch to a frame/chassis to battery ground connection is the increase in electronics that require a more secure ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T10:16:54.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5907" CreationDate="2013-04-20T10:43:19.500" Score="3" ViewCount="38326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a taken the front wheel out of my motorcycle to replace the tyre. When I put the axle back in is it a good idea to grease it? If so what type of grease should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:43:01.683" Title="Should I grease an axle when I replace it on my motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|axle|grease|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5902" CreationDate="2013-04-20T13:23:29.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance.  Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc.  If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best.  I've tried other brands (including &quot;performance&quot; brands) and have never seen any measurable improvement in performance.  I have, however, had a lot of early failures with those supposedly better (and dramatically more expensive) performance wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T13:23:29.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2013-04-21T10:37:35.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would apply a light coating of white lithium grease. It is thin enough that it it won't be wiped off the shaft sliding through the bearings. It also is resistant to getting washed off by rain or routine washing. The light coating of grease should keep the shaft from seizing in the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T10:37:35.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5950" CreationDate="2013-04-21T10:37:40.237" Score="3" ViewCount="4485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to retrofit the cruise control on a 307cc (2007) but for some reason it fails to activate even when I am diving with correct speed and gear (4+).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;activate cruise control on BSI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not able to locate where is the ECU option on DiagBox ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stalk mounted, car recognize it and displays &lt;code&gt;CC---&lt;/code&gt;, on off seems to work and if I try to use it while the speed is too low it will display a message on the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, it does fail to activate when it is suppose to work, giving no message.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T12:00:49.780" Title="How to retrofit cruise-control on Peugeot?" Tags="|peugeot|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2013-04-21T22:29:25.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try idle speed sensor or spraying throttle body cleaner into throttle body or removing it entirely  and cleaning it,especially where the idle air port entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3054" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T22:29:25.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6039" CreationDate="2013-04-22T16:43:57.487" Score="3" ViewCount="3873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Micra (UK, 51-plate, 2001 model) and I've today noticed a sound a bit like skidding when I apply the brakes, gently, around 30mph. Driving and steering as usual is fine, no unusual pull to the left or right. It's due for it's service in a few weeks so I can get it looked at then - if I know what to ask the mechanic to look for. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T14:20:57.827" Title="Front, driver-side wheel sounds like it's skidding when braking" Tags="|tires|brakes|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2013-04-22T19:14:00.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern radial tires can look/feel just fine from the outside while still being dangerously low on air pressure.  Skidding type sounds are typical for a tire with low air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T19:14:00.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2013-04-22T21:47:17.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should maintain both ground wires. If you removed battery to chassis you would have to add engine to chassis wiring. The battery to engine wire is there to ground the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery to chassis wiring  is probably a safer, shorter, and easier run than engine to chassis anyways so why bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably want 2gauge wire all the way around. You could probably &quot;get away with&quot; 4gauge but I by no means recommend it since I am not an electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T21:47:17.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5902" CreationDate="2013-04-22T22:00:11.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it ain't broke don't fix it. If your wires already check out and you don't have misfires it is probably not worth replacing them just yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could possibly get better performance out of better coils and plugs but even those numbers are pretty minimal. Best thing I can recommend for fuel economy is to use seafoam in the engine and fuel and then change the spark plugs soon afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T22:00:11.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5921" CreationDate="2013-04-23T19:04:32.753" Score="4" ViewCount="113165" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just changed the battery in our 1997 Toyota Camry now as soon as we connect the battery the panic alarm goes off and all the doors lock. How do we stop this / turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;///note: the battery in our remote is dead///  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3060" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T22:43:43.503" Title="Factory panic alarm going off after changing battery [97 Toyota Camry]" Tags="|toyota|battery|camry|alarm|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4820" CreationDate="2013-04-23T19:17:18.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;And, to just add my two bits, make sure that donut spare is properly inflated while you're driving on it!  Most spares have a much higher inflation pressure that people do not know about.  The spare on my Accord has a max. pressure of 60 PSI.  And to significantly decrease the chances of your tire exploding, or wearing poorly, you should have it up around 45-50 PSI.  A fully inflated spare is much better able to withstand 50 MPH speeds and prolonged use than a half inflated one.  I have checked too many spare tires sitting at just 20 PSI to let that slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T19:17:18.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2013-04-23T19:33:45.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact is that (H) and (V) rated tires are very similar in their speed ratings.  In fact, they are right next to each other on the speed scale: 130 MPH for (H) and 149 MPH for (V).   Because of the speeds at which you travel on that highway, the difference between the top end of these ratings is insignificant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your car is not a 5,000 pound Porsche Cayenne either.  Good (H) rated tires can handle moderate twists in an Accord just fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, it is true that you should always match your tires to the speed rating for the car.  If you were driving on a (Q) speed-rated tire - which is only good for 99 MPH - I would be more likely to lay blame on its speed rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T19:33:45.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-23T20:22:48.277" Score="5" ViewCount="2842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Mustang GT which seems to have the exact issue that is described by Ford TSB 09-09-06.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TSB can be viewed here :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stangpit.com/wp-content/images/docs/s197-tsb/09-09-06.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stangpit.com/wp-content/images/docs/s197-tsb/09-09-06.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically my transmission exhibits a harsh grind during the 2-3 shift if the transmission is cold. It will go away after about 5 minutes of driving (warms up) or if I shift very slowly from 2nd to 3rd. I have verified that I am clutching in all the way. My question is that I have a power-train warranty valid until December of 2013 from buying the vehicle as certified used through a Ford dealership. The TSB says that the service is eligible under new vehicle limited warranty coverage. What does that mean? Will this service be covered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the service is covered will it be worth doing? I honestly don't really trust dealerships that much to begin with. Could letting them rip apart and replace the synchros in my transmission just make things worse? I don't plan on driving the vehicle in cold weather too much anymore but I also don't want the situation to get worse overtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:32:04.847" Title="Ford TSB covered under warranty?" Tags="|ford|transmission|shifting|warranty|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2013-04-23T20:42:46.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the easy fix is replace the battery in your FOB then just hit unlock once you hook up the battery. But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are too lazy to replace your FOB battery. Try just putting the key in the ignition in the &quot;ON&quot; position then hooking up the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work then try cycling the key between off and on (not start) 5 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work then make sure all doors are closed and unlocked before disconnecting and closed and unlocked before reconnecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work pull the fuse for the horn and go find a fob battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T03:52:34.467" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:52:34.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-23T23:07:15.633" Score="10" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2003 Deville, someone had hand brush painted a small picture of Mickey Mouse leaning against the Cadillac symbol. It is very dry. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove it without damaging my cars paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T13:20:25.990" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T18:01:12.973" Title="Removing a painted picture on my car" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5920" CreationDate="2013-04-24T00:02:25.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work for BMW, so it might be different, but from my point of view YES. The warranty should cover the synchs, as they are not a &quot;wear and tear&quot; item like the brakes, clutch, etc. I can understand you trust issues, as I myself went back to school due to the perception we got as mechanics, but I wouldn't allow a problem to grow bigger because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T00:02:25.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2013-04-24T00:04:38.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very unlikely that your shaft is warped. They are very strong, and the balancer is there more for your pleasure and the safety of the motor, versus the safety of the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T00:04:38.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5922" CreationDate="2013-04-24T01:15:26.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Mickey?  Goof Off.  Seriously, probably your best chance.  Just use a little at a time.  Tell him Goofy is coming to take him away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2650" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T01:15:26.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T05:45:42.350" Score="5" ViewCount="8811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just hand my 1995 Jeep Grande Cherokee 4.0L straight 6 automatic in for tune-up (rotor, cap, wires, plugs, filters oil etc) and trans fluid service at special jeep repair shop.  Also had the motor mounts and front suspension arms with bushing replaced four days after the tune up and trans service.  Now after the tune-up and trans service was complete and prior to replacing the motor mounts I immediately notice more pronounced vibration in the steering wheel when stopped at a light.  Take it out of gear and place in neutral while stopped at the light and it gets better but not totally gone. The replacement of the motor mounts occurred four days after the tune up and trans service with little too no effect on the this vibration.  It did have a slight vibration while stopped at a light for the last few years or so prior to the tune up but now much more vibration.  Jeep repair shop believes it running correctly after tune-up etc.  So what is causing this increased vibration?  Transmission?  Want could have gone wrong in servicing the trans? Or is it more of cap, rotor, wires, plugs not agreeing with the engine - maybe try a new set of wires and plugs?  Should I bring to transmission shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3064" LastEditorUserId="3064" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T07:31:24.033" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:08:17.923" Title="What is causing steering wheel to vibrate?" Tags="|vibration|steering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2013-04-24T06:40:39.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the foundation bolts of the engine? Many times these work loose after hard driving and cause vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also consult online repair manuals  which will give you complete information on troubleshooting and repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T11:43:39.743" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:43:39.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2013-04-24T06:41:46.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably just the new motor mounts. If the new motor mounts are stiffer you will get more chassis vibration. I am a little surprised that shifting to neutral effects the vibration though. Is it automatic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did they have to drop your transmission cross member or any drive shafts during the service. If so it could be something to do with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T06:41:46.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2013-04-24T06:45:24.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold weather takes a toll on the engines, especially if it is running lean. Improper fuel feed to the engine may also result in rough idling, and it would be advisable to increase the fuel flow a bit and warm up the engine sufficiently before taking off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T11:44:20.450" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:44:20.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5905" CreationDate="2013-04-24T06:51:29.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By all means yes. It is a good practice to grease the axle prior installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T11:43:01.683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:43:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T17:10:53.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1829" Body="&lt;p&gt;So recently I hit a speed bump and cracked a small section on the oil pan. I ordered one and received it. The problem is getting off the oil pan. On opposite sides there are about 6-7 screws which my friend and I have taken off. But the difficulty comes while trying to access two specific screws which are at an impossible angle. The thing is that the screws are not completely in line, which makes it very hard to screw them out from a 90 degree angle. How can I get these screws out? Will I have to use a specific battery operated tool or normal husky work tools? It's  a 2001 Jetta with a 2.0 4 cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3067" LastEditorUserId="3067" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T18:04:00.440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:02:13.407" Title="Volkswagen Jetta Oil Pan Change" Tags="|vw|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5931" CreationDate="2013-04-24T20:56:03.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swivels, extensions, shallow sockets, and a ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what is blocking access you may have to remove/unbolt something else or lift the engine slightly to gain access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q51ws737EEQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; video he had to remove the belt from his AC compressor and move it slightly. Not sure what year of Jetta in the video though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="2895" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T21:02:13.407" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:02:13.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:44:45.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you brought the Jeep in did you explain that you have a vibration? If you did and they suggested a tune-up was in order, you have a case to bring it back and complain. I donot believe it is related to the motor mount change,suspension or transmission work. The reason the vibration lessens when out of gear is beacause the load is removed. I think it is an engine problem. Are you getting a check engine light? It may be a misfire,vacum leak,sticking lifter or a miriad of other faults that occur on vehicles as they age. If you feel confident in the shop that did the tune-up bring it back and ask them to have another look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:44:45.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="202" CreationDate="2013-04-24T23:32:33.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Megasquirt 3 is the way to go giving you total control of your new setup. The EFI Analytics software, Tuner Studio and Mega Log Viewer make tuning easy but has a feature set that is up to par with pro tuning setups. The VE Analyzer Live will also help dial in various areas of your tune as will the Mega Log Viewer Scatter Plots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet your new install will also run better than the day you got it, that's how good this product has come over the last few years. DIY AutoTune is where you want to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T23:32:33.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2013-04-25T00:11:47.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Base on the limited information it's sounds like the tranny could be out of spec. This with new fluid would cause a pronounced vibration. Try to find out what fluids were use and if the torque converter was also serviced or replaced. As said, the new motor mounts would make matters worse as it puts more pressure on the rest of the parts. If these are poly or high performance motor mounts, it would make things feel worse. Again, if the motor feels strong and pulls as it should, I'm betting it's the torque converter. The convertor or flex plate could have lost the balancing weights that are sometimes welded on to balance them. The flex plate could also have cracked at the crankshaft hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T00:11:47.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2013-04-25T00:21:34.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the alarm is a &quot;factory&quot; alarm, cycle the key in the ignition from off to on (where the dash indicators light up), 5 times. This is the reset procedure for the &quot;factory&quot; alarm. Otherwise look in the owners manual where there is a red button under the steering wheel, possibly behind a panel. These process is performed when doing maintenance. Either way, you want to make sure to re-engage it when you get it working or you will not have the alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T00:21:34.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="393" CreationDate="2013-04-25T00:27:12.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you want to do, you can get solid Billet Aluminum motor mounts from BIC Performance as well as polyurethane mounts. Polyurethane have more NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) over the stock motor mounts, but much less than full solid mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T00:27:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2013-04-25T03:46:38.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience (in multiple cars, albeit not your make/model) has been that this sound always means your cooling system is under-filled. If you've emptied your cooling system and refilled it, it can be really hard to get all the air pockets out of the heater core, especially since in many vehicles it's almost as high as the radiator cap and at the opposite end of the system. The best system I know of is to park on a steep grade with the front of the car facing upward, then let the engine run with the radiator cap off. Squeezing the hoses, especially the hoses near the back of the engine compartment that go to the heater core, and varying the throttle can help. You should get bubbles coming up the top of the radiator. Whenever the fluid level drops, add some more coolant, and repeat until you can't get any more bubbling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, another symptom that might indicate this is your problem is that it's usually associated with poor heater performance (taking a long time to get heat, or only getting warm air, not hot air, out of the heater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T03:46:38.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-25T12:55:20.083" Score="5" ViewCount="4714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Suzuki WagonR and did a long drive some days back. During driving I found my car was wobbling a little bit, and on checking I found that my right front tyre was wearing out little bit. So, I decided to go for a wheel alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the garage, to my horror what I found was that the my right front side tyre completely wore out and it looks like a tube. I had to buy a new tyre along with the alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you manually align your wheels and suspension? I know some garage guy uses a thread instead of computerized wheel alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2344" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T18:36:12.807" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T18:36:12.807" Title="How to align wheel manually" Tags="|wheels|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2013-04-25T13:17:55.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get &quot;in the ballpark&quot; counting threads (if that's what you are referring to), but the computerized way is vastly more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done more precisely with levels, protractors, measuring tape, string, etc. If you buy a couple specialty tools (like a caster/camber gauge) it gets a little easier. HotRod.com has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;decent article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afxTd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In brief:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup jack stands and string to form a perfect rectangle parallel with the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure wheel caster/camber/toe from that string.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust as necessary, and recheck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:17:55.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5920" CreationDate="2013-04-25T13:25:24.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it should, as long as you have the original warranty or one equivalent to it. Print out the TSB and bring it with you in case they try to tell you it's not covered. You might want to go through you warranty papers as well. Also, be sure to get a tech. to be in the car when you drive to show him the deal, emphasizing that it only does it when cold and that you are in fact using the clutch correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:25:24.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2013-04-25T13:26:45.953" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article on how to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/wheel-alignment-guide-zmaz88sozgoe.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/wheel-alignment-guide-zmaz88sozgoe.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:26:45.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2013-04-25T15:13:36.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a wheel alignment the old school way, string and rulers, etc. But your situation needs to also include the inspecting bushings and any moving part connected to each wheel. The wear on your tire leads me to thinking it is a suspension or steering issue. Make sure you check your suspension and steering for loose components both with the suspension loaded and jacked up off the ground, unloaded. An alignment is only as good as all the parts that are connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T15:13:36.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2013-04-26T10:51:42.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern car manufacturers do proper research, development and testing before they introduce new features in an automobile. Since start and stop technology was not existing some years back, older vehicles will not benefit from this function. Newer cars which already come installed with such features have no problem whatsoever, but it is advisable to shut off this option in extreme bumper to bumper traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3078" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T11:46:47.047" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T11:46:47.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5908" CreationDate="2013-04-26T12:00:49.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem solved, here are two problems I had to fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ECU option is the one after the BSI one, it doesn't have ECU in its name, just a code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your cruise control stick does not have speed limit, do not activate it on BSI or in ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone knows how to trick the limit to allow it to work in 3rd gear under 35mph?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T12:00:49.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-26T21:16:11.193" Score="4" ViewCount="5657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima that I've owned since 2003. I'm now on my sixth Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. What seems to wipe them out is hard acceleration (3/4 throttle - not so extreme as to induce torque steer) such as accelerating up a freeway on-ramp. Sometimes it's been preceded by braking, such as slowing for a bicycle in the lane, then accelerating around it when there's an opening in traffic. Based on my experience of having many (expensive) failures, I would think this would be a common problem, but I can find hardly anything on the interweb on the subject. What could possibly be causing such a high failure rate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3079" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T20:13:49.887" Title="Maxima (2002) MAF Sensor Failures" Tags="|engine|sensor|maxima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5954" CreationDate="2013-04-27T00:20:23.420" Score="2" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a search on the VIN and the engine type is listed as: 2.0L I4 SPI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell if it is California or Federal Emissions? From what I've been told they have completely different intake systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T10:24:17.563" Title="How to know if a '97 Ford Escort Engine is Federal Emissions or California Emissions" Tags="|engine|ford|emissions|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-27T01:06:02.780" Score="3" ViewCount="14871" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is getting desperate - he thinks there are chipmunks in his car (Jetta 03), the cabin intake air filter has some holes, there was some food around, pieces of insulation etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like chipmunk (or some other small animal) lives in that space under the windshield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything he can try? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T00:26:27.023" Title="How to remove chipmunks from a car?" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5952" CreationDate="2013-04-27T10:24:17.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to tell. Your local ford dealer can tell by decoding the VIN (the vehicle indentification number). It is usually located on the dashboard at the base of the windshield on the drivers side. If you look under the hood there is usually a sticker on the frame near the radiator that will say complies with California or 49 state emissions. The sticker may be missing so a call to the Ford dealer is the most reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T10:24:17.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5953" CreationDate="2013-04-27T20:25:42.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving the car should get rid of them. If you're worried about the mess they leave behind I guess you can take the battery out and hose everything down or something. If you want them to stop coming back when leaving the car alone for a long time I heard that putting a shop light under the engine compartment might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T20:25:42.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2013-04-28T00:31:28.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &quot;injector cleaning&quot; products helped but only lasted for one tank, I would try spraying Seafoam directly in at the throttle plate rather than putting an additive in your fuel. This should be a lot more effective at cleaning the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, my best guess would be that the vibration is from unequal power from one or more of the cylinders for a reason other than the injector. A compression test would be the natural first step for checking this possibility, It's also possible that you have inconsistent belt tension as the engine rotates due to a bad idler pulley or bad bearings in the water pump, alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T00:31:28.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-28T10:34:21.230" Score="7" ViewCount="2476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite my best effort to clean up a corroded spark plug and blowing the area with compressed air before removing would it be bad news if dirt or grime falls into the engine in the process of removing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T02:29:04.147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T02:29:04.147" Title="When I remove a spark plug is it bad news if dirt or grime falls into the engine" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2013-04-28T13:59:12.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be, depending on what you get in there. If it is a metal shaving or something hard enough to survive the temperature you could damage a seal, or cause valve damage, but if it is just a piece of lint or dust I wouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T13:59:12.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-28T14:24:22.940" Score="3" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Chevy truck lights all come on like normal but won't start there is nothing . I hooked 2 wires to the starter and hit them together and it started. Any idea what the problem is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T23:36:29.753" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T16:30:27.887" Title="How do I troubleshoot a vehicle that won't start?" Tags="|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5953" CreationDate="2013-04-28T20:32:04.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live in a wooded area there is little you can do as far as a permanent(non lethal) solution. The problem seem more likely if the vehicle is driven infrequently. I have heard that some rodents have a dislike for the smell of cedar. You can purchase cedar wood blocks for moth protection in most department stores. I would place a few in stategic places under the hood away from the engine and exhaust. I would avoid mothballs/cakes as the fumes may enter the passanger compartment. It may help to spread cedar mulch around the edge of the driveway to act as a barrier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T20:32:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5965" CreationDate="2013-04-28T22:14:03.750" Score="4" ViewCount="16114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I missed the memo about replacing my fuel filter every 30k, so it's been more like 100k since it's been replaced. Anyway, the car is a 2001 Buick Regal, and the fuel filter nut (not the quick connect, but the side closest to the front of the car) is stripped and rusted, and looks &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similar to this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acC78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried spraying White Lithium Grease on it to loosen it up, I'm going to have to get a 16mm wrench since it's stripped (It &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a 17mm nut), but I'd really like to avoid towing it to the shop (won't run, fuel system issue) if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T03:25:08.323" Title="Best way to remove partially stripped and rusted fuel filter nut?" Tags="|rust|fuel-filter|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2013-04-28T22:52:18.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car needs 3 things to start: Fuel, Air, &amp;amp; Spark. You can do try the following to either rule in or rule out the missing piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure you're getting air and spark, try taking off the mass air flow cover from your manifold, and spray &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a little&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; starter fluid directly into the intake, while attempting to start the car. If the car is getting a spark, the car should at least start because the air and fuel are coming in through the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car doesn't start, you're likely not getting a spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it starts and runs well, there may be a blockage in your air, which removing the air flow cover solved. You could visually check your air filter and air flow path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it starts, runs for a second or two, but stalls out - even after flooring the gas pedal after starting - It's possible there is no fuel getting to the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a very basic guide to point you in the right direction of the offending system that's keeping your car from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, your battery could be the culprit (may not be carrying enough current), or it could be the wires running from the battery to the starter. I would visually check the wires for damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T16:30:27.887" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T16:30:27.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5963" CreationDate="2013-04-29T00:53:59.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing you need to get some type of penetrating oil. You need something like LiquidWrench,PB Blaster or SeaFoam. My personal favorite is PB Blaster. The second thing you need is patience. If you can, give the penetrant several days to work. I have had goodluck wrapping the fitting in a strip of rag and soaking it with the oil.  If you can get the quick disconnect side off hold the fuel line fitting and try to spin the filter. This will hopefully prevent the fuel line fitting from twisting the steel line. In the worst case look for a clean or lightly rusted section close to the filter that can be cut and reflared. Harbor freight has a flaring kit for about $25. Then install a short piece of new steel line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T22:53:36.257" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T22:53:36.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5971" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:04:22.833" Score="3" ViewCount="17663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious if this has ever happened to anyone. I know people who like to put objects behind the shifter, heavy enough to slide the shifter to neutral. So it got me thinking, if this happens, can they just shift back into drive going, say, &gt;10mph without damage? or must they slow down to a crawl. My gut tells me they have to slow down, so the gear can catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T14:52:01.137" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T18:23:36.347" Title="My automatic transmission slid to neutral while driving down the freeway. Can I just put it back in drive?" Tags="|shifting|driving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5972" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:11:43.417" Score="1" ViewCount="9861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3980/manually-shifting-an-automatic-transmission?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and TMN's answer: What's a good RPM range to safely downshift an automanual transmission manually? My car does it for me when the RPMs get really low, but that throws me off at times and I'd like to beat my car to it sometimes. If I downshift a too high RPMs, I get a slight jerk forward, I've never driven a stick but I'd imagine it doesn't happen since the clutch is supposed to be disengaged when braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T15:35:35.190" Title="Typically in what RPM range should one manually downshift an automanual transmission?" Tags="|shifting|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5966" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:49:23.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any automatic transmission cars that even have a flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the noise isolation procedures that is used by mechanics involves getting up to highway speed, knocking the car into neutral, then knocking it back into drive (while comparing the sounds between the 2).  I can't guarantee that it's safe on any particular car, but as a general concept it doesn't seem to cause any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T14:49:23.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5953" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:56:00.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that bounce dryer sheets will keep away mice and other rodents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving the car should definitely scare them off and the dryer sheets should prevent them from coming back and also make the car smell nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note however the insurance companies where I live consider mice/rodent infestations of vehicles to be a biohazard. If you report this to the DMV they will write off your vehicle and you can probably get it's entire value back or maybe a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth it if your friend wants a new vehicle. It is definitely not a good idea to breath squirrel/chipmunk poop for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 for the snake idea aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T14:56:00.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2013-04-29T15:00:29.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since shorting the starter worked it sounds like the issue is with your key/ignition.&#xA;Something isn't powering the starter when you turn the key? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could also be bad power or ground wire to the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T15:00:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5966" CreationDate="2013-04-29T15:22:55.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is fine to just put it back into drive. You probably don't want to do it repeatedly because you could maybe wear out some clutch packs in your auto trans but for the most part it is much safer to just throw it into drive and get back into the flow of traffic than coasting and pulling over to stop then back to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put the car into neutral at speed the output shaft is decoupled from the input shaft. This means that they can start rotating at an unmatched speed. To go back to drive this speed needs to be resynchronized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three components of the auto trans that should protect it from damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The torque converter - The torque converter spins at engine speed and the input shaft can rotate independent of that speed (equal or even much slower). Since the input shaft can rotate fairly independent of the engine it should not provide a huge amount of force if you try to change the speed of the input shaft to match the output shaft (which happens when you go back to drive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Clutch packs - Most auto transmissions contain clutch packs which engage /disengage to enable or disable certain rotations and therefore certain gears. These work similar to any other clutch in that they will allow some slip as they engage cushioning or smoothening the engagement of the gear. This is what will clamp down to try to synchronize the input and output shaft. The two halves of the clutch pack will be rotating at different speeds when in neutral then when you go to drive the clutch will be engaged and they will synchronize. These will absorb most of the force and the torque converter will also absorb some and prevent the load of the engine from adding too much more force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Accumulators - Auto transmissions contain large hydraulic cylinders which are designed to cause the hydraulic fluid to build up pressure gradually or smoothly instead of slamming immediate pressure to the components. These should allow the clutch pack to engage smoothly instead of rapidly causing undue stress on other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T15:22:55.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5967" CreationDate="2013-04-29T15:35:35.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your RPM shoots up when you downshift it should cause your engine brake to or slow down. (Unless you still have your foot on the gas). I would say TMN was probably thinking about over revving the engine when downshifting If you are at 4000RPM in 4th then you downshift to 3rd and your RPM goes up to 6000+ or anywhere close to the redline you could potentially do damage to the valves in your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't take into account what your transmission is going through when you do this. I would say you don't want to downshift and cause your engine to go over 4000RPM. I used to do this with my automatic as well and I tried to find the downshift points which would leave my engine at around 3200rpm. This gave a decent amount of engine braking without jerkiness or engine noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said the safest way is to just let the auto control the downshifts. Doing this could theoretically wear out clutch packs sooner so you may want to change your trans fluid more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a manual the clutch doesn't have to be disengaged while braking in fact you will get better efficiency if you leave the clutch engaged while braking until you are just about to stop (or stall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T15:35:35.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5976" CreationDate="2013-04-29T17:30:35.270" Score="2" ViewCount="25867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on installing an amplifier in my 2008 Mustang and hoping to keep the factory head unit for now. My amplifier supports high level input through the RCAs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is should I splice/solder the adapters in at the factory head unit (before factory amp). Or at the speakers (after factory amp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the factory system has fade/balancers built into the amps so I would lose those if I went from the head unit but I am thinking it is the right way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go from the head unit output do I need to have a summing unit or can I just leave it as is? I am assuming the amp will just amplify each channel based on what is received from the head unit that way (not sure if it does any frequency filtering at that point or if it is done at the factory amps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give me your suggestions. I'm not too fussed about keeping fade/balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T15:36:12.123" Title="Amp Install Question. Splice in pre or post factory amp?" Tags="|wiring|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-29T18:07:58.600" Score="2" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 04 Toyota Camry Solara. The car is in very good condition at 165k miles. Although since two winters ago I have noticed only in the cold mornings when I first start the car there is like a squeak/scrape noise. its not constant its only when I first start the car. This goes away during the day when the car is a little warmed up or in hot weather conditions. However now In April, the weather is a bit warm and I just noticed it again?? Anyone know what it is. I changed the belt at 100k and only started noticing this at around 120k&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3089" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T19:51:41.703" Title="Cold start Squeak noise" Tags="|engine|toyota|timing-belt|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5998" CreationDate="2013-04-29T18:24:07.847" Score="2" ViewCount="3904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like a high performance alternator similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators/xp-series-high-output-alternators.html?make=Buick&amp;amp;model=Regal&amp;amp;year=2001&amp;amp;engine=3.8L+V6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt;. Is it possible to rebuild a stock alternator to similar output, using majority of tools one would have at a home garage? Of course one or two specialty tools might be involved, but if it's pheasible to diy and 25-50% off the cost then it seems almost worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T08:22:14.997" Title="Is rebuilding an alternator a DIY project?" Tags="|alternator|diy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5973" CreationDate="2013-04-29T18:55:46.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a certain amount of power for proper function, such as a good ground, a good power source, some sort of RCA audio input, and a remote turn on. I know trying to figure out the same thing once. Plus most factory amps are just a plug of 16 gauge wires, and by time you through all of them to figure out power,ground,and remote, you still have to figure out how to send and input to your after market amp. Lets say you did do it and figured it all out, once you turn your deck on the after market amp probably would go right into protect due to not having enough power...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you wired it up right I have a good feeling it wouldn't sound good. One exception I can think of is that some amps have a type of 'line out' where they directly support daisy chaining to additional amplifiers. Typically the amps have to be the same model/family to work in this manner though, to sync the power being delivered to the speakers, and other low level audio/power stuff that's currently beyond me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a solution though, If your factory unit has Pre-amp outputs, then you have your answer: Run a pair to your aftermarket amp, and you'd be good to go. If not, then a line-level converter is the route you'll have to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwEKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Line level converter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely want to use the low-level (RCA, pre-amp) outputs from your factory head-unit if available. That way you don't get amplified noise from your head-unit, which goes to your shiny new amp that you can't crank up because it will start to clip at a very low level. That way, you get an unamplified signal going to your amp, which is precisely what it wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but I know older factory head-units don't have pre-amp outputs. If it does, then awesome. You also asked for where to splice: I'm assuming that's for if your radio doesn't have pre-amps. However you said your amp has high level inputs, if that's the case then there I would splice close to where the amp is going to go, this will minimize or eliminate more splices. Typically the connectors that come with amps for high level input don't have a lot of wire on them(see below), so you'll &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to splice close to the amp, and since you're running all new wire you can run wire straight from your HU right up to the amp and splice there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2GaN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T19:30:00.553" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T19:30:00.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5974" CreationDate="2013-04-29T19:51:41.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a belt to me. Check the tension on the belt you replaced and see if the pulley needs an adjustment. I imagine there's a slight variation in how well the rubber &quot;sticks&quot; to the pulleys when it's cold vs when it's hot, so it slips more when it's cold. Check all the other belts too. You could also start the car and go listen around the engine and try and locate where the noise is coming from, that should give you an idea of what to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T19:51:41.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5975" CreationDate="2013-04-29T20:19:39.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You could probably fix a broken one by rebuilding it but I doubt it is easy to up the amperage value. You would have to replace the coils with higher windings I doubt you could do this in the average garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth looking into I guess but I wouldn't hold your breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T20:19:39.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5980" CreationDate="2013-04-29T22:52:25.840" Score="2" ViewCount="13738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I took my 2000 Toyota 4Runner to a local shop to get the oil changed. While there they told me I needed to flush the coolant, pulling clear water out of the coolant reservoir. They insisted that the water in the coolant could cause problems for my engine. Also insisting that I couldn't flush it myself because it requires special equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I know antifreeze is in the engine and it was last serviced by the dealer I'm a little perplexed as to how water (or a clear liquid anyway) ended up in the overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that coolant is low, so the overflow was empty. They added water so they could up-sell me into flushing the coolant system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other reasonable explanation for how that could have happened? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(for the record I didn't have them flush the coolant)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3090" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:17:05.413" Title="Clear water in coolant reservoir" Tags="|toyota|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2013-04-29T23:52:02.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's clear the shop was being dishonest, I wouldn't even assume the overflow tank was low. They could have just poured it out or siphoned it off and filled it with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T23:52:02.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2013-04-30T00:09:49.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to R...'s answer, I don't know about your Toyota, but on my buick there's a wingnut on the radiator, once I unscrewed that all the coolant came out (so drip pan was my 'special equipment'), once it stopped I tightened the wingnut and added properly mixed coolant, been running fine ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want a peak at what it will take, here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000JRD4IY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repair manual&lt;/a&gt; for your car, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/58925-download-1996-2002-service-repair-manual-here.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; is offering a download of it, I don't know how legit the download is, but Haynes manuals are pretty accurate from my use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T00:09:49.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2013-04-30T03:10:06.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only special equipment you'll need to flush your own radiator is a bucket. The fact that they claimed it would take special equipment is just one red flag. I'd be skeptical they even &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jiffy_Lube#Controversy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changed the oil&lt;/a&gt;. Just google how to flush your Toyota's radiator, you'll see it's super easy. And see if you can warn everyone else in your area about that shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T03:10:06.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5984" CreationDate="2013-04-30T12:50:14.097" Score="4" ViewCount="56193" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2535/car-not-starting-how-likely-that-its-the-fuel-pump&quot;&gt;a related question&lt;/a&gt;, I suppose my problem could be the relay, so I'll have to check that as well. However, the problem is still the same: My car won't start, and I don't hear the fuel pump coming on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started one day when I ran out of gas (floating needle, tried to stretch it), after refilling with over 3 gallons it still won't start. Now I'm thinking the fuel pump was probably on it's way out for a while, and the problem didn't really surface until the tank and lines ran empty. Could this be the case? 2001 Buick Regal FYI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 20140120&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an update, I swapped out the pump some months back and it resolved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T01:48:07.937" Title="Is it possible for a car to start and run with a dead/dying fuel pump? If so then for how long?" Tags="|relay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2013-04-30T13:51:04.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very possible. Letting a fuel pump run dry can quickly burn out the motor in the pump. The presence of fluid keeps the impeller from rotating as quickly and the gasoline also cools the pump as it operates. Without gas flowing through it can quickly overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said however you may just have air in the lines. I am not sure whether your vehicle has a returnless or return style fuel system but make sure you cycle the key into on position atleast three times letting it stay in the on position for at least 5 seconds each time. This should allow your pump (if it is working) to prime the fuel system and bleed out any air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A returnless system might have more trouble getting air out than a return style but I think your's would be a return style anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you wanted to check if your fuel pump is still working maybe go take the engine side of the fuel filter out slide a vacuum hose or similar over the quick connect tube (leave the fuel pump side plugged in) then put the vacuum hose into a container, and put the car to the on position. You should see gas fly out of the hose and into the container. If it doesn't or is slow replace the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does come out at a decent pace you may have to check the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T13:51:04.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2013-04-30T14:03:27.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your information, it appears your transmission is on it's way out. If your mounts were bad and the car was driven for a lengthy period of time, you were putting more stress on the tranny than usual. Being a FWD car with the tranny on the side, Horizontally opposed to the engine, it's verifiable when you say the car &quot;shifts&quot; when turning it off. This tells me that your torque converter is not fully releasing or your tranny gears/valves/springs are going if not bad already. I would drain the tranny fluid looking for metal debris and such, this will tell you that the tranny is grinding internally, not good. Or new fluid might lessen the effect, thus confirming it's your transmission. Moving on to the motor, if you're not seeing any smoke, white or black, your motor is probably fine. But still closely inspect your crank pulley as *This crankshaft is externally balanced by that pully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T14:03:27.643" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-30T14:03:27.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5991" CreationDate="2013-04-30T16:14:32.753" Score="11" ViewCount="23867" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nuts at the knuckle on my outer tie rod ends are castle nuts, which are locked by cotter pins fed through holes in the studs. The nuts also have a torque spec (27.0±2.5 N∙m, in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I tighten them down to the midpoint of that spec, the holes and the crenellations may or may not align such that I can get the pin through. It's possible to rotate the stud, since its base is a ball joint, but that requires removing the nut completely so that the stud can be popped out of the knuckle again. That's likely to require repeated attempts and be an utter pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the correct procedure here to deliberately use the range in the torque spec to allow the hole to line up? That is, should I torque the nut down, then -- staying within ±&lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; -- turn the nut in or out to access the nearest slot to the hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="2895" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T17:28:54.560" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T08:33:03.653" Title="Aligning a castle nut with a torque spec to a cotter pin hole" Tags="|steering|torque|nut|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2013-04-30T17:17:38.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use some anti-seize on the threads then tighten it to torque spec. If it doesn't line up then I would tighten it until it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just what I would do. If it is a weak bolt or a really bad place for the threads to strip then I would just loosen it until it lines up. Once the cotter pin is in it shouldn't go anywhere anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T17:17:38.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-30T17:54:01.210" Score="11" ViewCount="3535" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much fuel do various types of engines burn per power output? I'm especially interested in naturally aspirated piston engines, and comparing two-stroke to four-stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_specific_fuel_consumption&quot;&gt;wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; gives the value for several specific engines, but they're mostly for either aircraft or marine applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3092" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:37:21.930" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T11:24:49.143" Title="Brake Specific Fuel Consumption of 2-stroke vs 4-stroke" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|fuel-consumption|two-stroke|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5995" CreationDate="2013-04-30T21:08:14.057" Score="2" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 89 Mercedes 300 SE and recently the oil pressure needle has been stuck at the highest point when I accelerate. The values on the gauge are 0 to 3. When I take my foot off the gas the value goes down to 2 or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some knocking shaking sound this morning but after I turned the volume way up on the radio I couldn't hear it any more (bad joke). Also, if I let it idle for a minute or two it seemed to go away, no knocking or much less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T09:03:10.977" Title="Oil gauge needle is at highest point" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2013-04-30T21:43:43.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod  from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. I would torque it to spec, then if necessary tighten enough to align the castle nut and cotterpin hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T21:43:43.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-01T05:38:37.873" Score="4" ViewCount="1657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did an alternator upgrade recently, and I have 3 feet of 1/0awg wire left over.  Would it make any difference if I were to use this remaining wire to replace my starter's current 6awg wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 4.0L jeep wrangler and I have to crank it for a couple seconds to get it to start.  Would adding a wire with lower resistance help anything?  I don't see how I could hurt anything by adding 1/0awg wire, but would it help at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T04:19:22.340" Title="Upgrading starter wire?" Tags="|starter|wiring|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2013-05-01T08:46:33.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the &lt;code&gt;Idle Air Control Valve&lt;/code&gt; and the &lt;code&gt;Intake Manifold&lt;/code&gt; must be removed and cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In gear there is a &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; greater load on the engine. Power is being transfered to the transmission and then to the wheels. This is going to cause the idle to drop a bit and this is where you'd feel the most vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also the problem is worse with a warm engine/transmission than when it is cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, the Air/Fuel mixture is set (by the ecu) to a rather rich condition. Giving you a higher idle while the engine control systems are helping the vehicle obtain operating temperature. When the vehicle is hot (operating temp) the mixture is greatly reduced, bringing it back to where it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be, causing the idle to drop and making the vibration much more noticable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the project you will need a few cans of carbuerator cleaner (three, maybe four) and a wiRemove the intake manifold and wire brush (one of the flexible ones that resemble a pipe cleaner). Remove the intake manifold and spray the inside and work the brush down each runner until the carb cleaner comes out clean(ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process of removing the intake manifold you will most likely end up breaking a few things like your PCV valve so you might want to pick one of these up as well while you're at the store grabbing supplies. Also, be sure to clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) while you have everything exposed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: This repair is going to take some time and is only going to come out as good as you want it to. So please make sure you have a day where you can really tear into it. I promise you wont regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as replacing the mounts goes. There are a ton of other symptoms other than vibration that come with broken motor/transmission mounts. Since I've never driven &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; car I can't really say if I would have even considered replacing them to solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, please take note that you are driving an Inline 4. These motors are known to be rattle boxes. They put out a much greater / less smooth feeling than any V-style motor built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T08:46:33.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5990" CreationDate="2013-05-01T09:03:10.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the Engine Oil Level is &lt;em&gt;OK&lt;/em&gt; then you're gauge readings should resemble the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At idle&lt;/strong&gt;, the gauge should be between &lt;code&gt;1.5&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; depending on how long the vehicle has been sitting and the temperature outside (there are some other things that factor in here. Just trying to not complicate things too much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accelerating / Driving&lt;/strong&gt;, the gauge, for the most part, should always peg at 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge reading you're asking about seem to be correct. The knocking you're hearing is probably due to either using the incorrect oil weight (you should be using a 20-50 oil in that straight-6 or something like it. Also, Please double / tripple check to ensure that oil level is correct. And if needed, get your oil changed by a trustworthy mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T09:03:10.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5993" CreationDate="2013-05-01T11:55:03.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly shouldn't hurt anything, but it is unlikely to help either as the wires to your starter should be appropriate anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wiring is old then you may see an improvement, otherwise I would suggest leaving it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T11:55:03.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5975" CreationDate="2013-05-01T19:47:36.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: &lt;em&gt;This isn’t a qualified answer, but I thought it could be useful addition above that of a comment.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve looked into DIY coil repair before, and while such operation is possible (including winding the coils taut using hand drill or bench press), it’s not advisable for a novice. Beside the difficulty of producing a decent coil, even more so difficult is to ensure the sealing and/or insulation of the coil. As far as failures go, that would appear the primary cause in the first place, and a shade-tree mechanic without proper knowledge of electrical engineering and manufacturing practices is not likely to succeed (I’ve read of people’s repaired stators shorting out in several months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However people do repair automotive coils (generators, ignition etc.), and do rewind them for higher output. It could be advisable to find a specialist either locally, or over the Internet (you’d have to send the device for them to rewind which incurs additional cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T19:47:36.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6008" CreationDate="2013-05-01T21:24:13.023" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decade ago, a friend showed me how if one shuts down the electrical features of the dash of a 2003 Chevy Corvette, by removing a specific fuse, the car is drivable but the odometer no longer records the mileage driven while the dash electronics are inoperable.  Is there a way to ascertain the actual mileage of a car that's been tampered with in this manner?  Are there cars on the market where this type of tampering is still possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3099" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T14:12:24.613" Title="2003 Chevy Corvette actual mileage" Tags="|gm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5999" CreationDate="2013-05-01T22:06:46.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odometer tampering always has been and will probably always be possible.  The only thing likely to change is the difficulty involved (and perhaps the legal penalties for doing it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the perpetrator doesn't thoroughly cover their tracks, you might find hints that something isn't right by checking service records and Carfax (or similar services).  Oil changes and preventative maintenance at intervals that don't makes sense.  Ridiculously low numbers of miles driven per year, etc.  That's not going to reveal an accurate, 'true mileage' number, though.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The authoritative (and historically only) source for 'true mileage' is the odometer in the instrument cluster.  Models within the last few years may also store a mileage in the Powertrain Control Module and / or a Body Control Module.  You could access those values with a scantool if they're present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a C5, though, the mileage is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-scan-and-tune/1686835-where-is-mileage-stored.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;probably&lt;/a&gt; cluster only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T14:12:24.613" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T14:12:24.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2013-05-01T23:07:52.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have commented but this is a little long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your vibration's behavior at higher speeds is more along the line of frequency rather than vanishing. I've had numerous of these situations and really it gets down to pinpointing the vibration with some good friend(s) that will go along for the not-so-fun troubleshooting ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not assume it's in the back just because you don't feel it in the steering wheel. I almost always can find a noise is occuring as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an FYI in the past this general complaint on my own (and other people's) vehicles has yielded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad wheel bearing - this is most easily diagnosed by doing some spirited yet long turns. The noisy &lt;em&gt;loaded&lt;/em&gt; corner is the culprit if it is a bad bearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deteriorated control arms - This is a tough one depending on whether it's the joint or a bushing. Get creative but for proper diagnosis of a bushing that isn't visually identifiable as compromised you need to have weight on full.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bushing play - strong rocking and tugs on the suspension could indicate this, but more often when they get bad you will actually see off center wear on cup bushings and pressed type will be broken apart. (I wouldn't necessarily worry about tiny cracks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires cupped - you tire guy would have caught this though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear shock tower bushings - The shocks/struts are held in a bushing system at the top, quite often that center section begins to wobble and it is almost always worse at city speeds than highway speeds in my experience.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other odd-ball cases like drum brakes grabbing a little, engine/transmission harmonic vibration that get's &quot;better&quot; with rpms and differential wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an automatic transmission there is some credence to transmission mounts but that would be a visually identifiable issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, hope that is of some value to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:07:52.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5993" CreationDate="2013-05-02T00:56:50.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't hurt anything providing that you have a solidly crimped connector on both ends.  As a side note the long crank time is unrelated to the present cable. A new question addressing this issue may get you some helpful responses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T00:56:50.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2013-05-02T01:41:32.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I posted a question on Speedway Motor's website because they sell electric fan relay harness &amp;amp; sensor assemblies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My truck has a 170° Thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean I should get the kit that turns the fan (ON @ 185°)/(OFF @ 165°) or the kit that turns the fan (ON @ 195°)/(OFF @ 175°)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer by Jason was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part number 91064028 has options for fan turn on and off and with the 170 degree thermostat the hot coolant will enter the radiator at 170 and in many cases may cool the engine to this temperature without the fan running. If you get the on at 185 and off at 165 when the coolant got to 185 the fan would come on to assist and this is what would be recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spal-Thermoswitch-Relay-and-Wiring-Harness-Kit,5350.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;THERMOSWITCH Item #91064028&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electric fan from a 1993 Nissan Altima has been grafted into my 1994 Nissan D21 &amp;quot;Hardbody&amp;quot; in the pic below, with their THERMOSWITCH mounting on the circled spots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alk70.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T01:41:32.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-02T12:14:21.860" Score="6" ViewCount="8000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very nasty tick in my engine after doing a bunch of work to it, I just redid my chain tensioner which went a long way to fixing it, then I found that spark plugs could cause a tick, so I tightened them. It fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the reason for this post is that I'd like to understand why the car behaved how it did (both the ticking) with loose plugs, and also it idled really high after tightening the plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJFcdDf5K8A&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot;&gt;Here is a YouTube video showing the ticking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we tightened the plugs down I started the engine and it really struggled, then revs shot right up I had my hand on the keys (didn't see tacho) but figured it was very close to red line (and still going up) so I cut it. When I restarted it sitting in the car the revs sat at about 2k for 3-4 mins, putting it in gear dropped it to normal (ca. 900 rpm) putting it back in park put it back to 2k. After 3-4 minutes it dropped the idle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've restarted it three or four times since and it's behaved normally. I figure it might just have been the ECU learning new tolerances but I'd like clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a BMW 740 with an M62 motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T13:46:08.310" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:08:36.260" Title="Really high idle after tightening spark plugs" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2013-05-02T13:04:22.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can report that on my car, with 185 degree 'stat that the fans are supposed to come on at 200 (per the manual).  When they actually come on varies from 200-210...  Not sure why that is, the fan relay is ECU controlled and the gauge and ECU directly samples the temperature...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T13:04:22.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6010" CreationDate="2013-05-02T15:54:29.503" Score="2" ViewCount="8121" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Suzuki WagonR (2008) is about four years old now. The problem is that my car refuses to start sometimes. I doubt my battery is the problem and the history of my battery is that I have not changed my battery from the day of purchase, except adding some distilled water. But still I have no problems operating my music system or lighting the headlights without starting the engine, which makes me feel that the problem lies with the starter itself. Again most of the time the car refuses to start after lighting the headlamps. What might be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2344" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T14:05:02.567" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T19:48:51.360" Title="WagonR refuses to start sometimes" Tags="|battery|starting|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-02T16:02:22.940" Score="9" ViewCount="1724" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle (92 Civic) and most others I've seen, the condenser fan comes on whenever the A/C clutch is engaged. This seems like a waste of electricity (and thus fuel) when cruising at 60-75 mph, where the air flow from the fan is going to be dwarfed by air flow from the vehicle's motion. My car has separate radiator and condenser fans (they're mounted side-by-side rather than one in front of the other) so it seems like it would be even more of an issue on vehicles where a single larger fan or pair of fans turn on together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea if the electrical load is significant to fuel economy? Is there any easy modification that could be made to prevent the fan(s) from running when the vehicle speed is greater than a particular threshold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T14:44:30.797" Title="Shutting off fans at highway speeds" Tags="|electrical|ac|fan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5999" CreationDate="2013-05-02T17:15:22.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK, it's still possible on any car.  Interrupt whatever mileage sensing system they have and the odometer won't increment.  Older cars it was cable driven from the transmission.  Newer cars have electrical sensors.  Either way, interrupt the signal and no mileage gets counted.  I can imagine it may be able to come up with a system less easily fooled if you take into account transmission gear, plus rpms, etc, but now you've decreased reliability...  Trans gear sensors seem to fail pretty often (ever seen somebody who's had both backup lights out?  Odds are the lights are actually fine and it's a failed gear select switch!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's illegal to tamper with that on purpose, but at least where I live, there's no legal requirement for the odometer to work.  If the sensing mechanism breaks down, you DO have a legal obligations to report the guesstimated mileage to someone purchasing the car.  Just as if you have to replace the odometer itself (gauge back in the day, or module that stores the value nowadays) you have to report the fact that you had xxx,xxx miles on the old one, a guesstimated value driven before repair, in addition to what's showing in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T17:15:22.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6007" CreationDate="2013-05-02T17:30:48.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you could manage to measure the amount of energy wasted by your condenser fan, but I promise you it's statistically insignificant. If you're trying to save an amp or two or power, it would make more sense to make sure you don't have any lights on or that you're not carrying any heavy objects you don't need in your trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the most effective way to make sure your condenser fan isn't turning on when you're confident that you don't need it to, would be to splice a relay into the wire running to it, and control that relay with switch near you in the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T17:30:48.957" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2013-05-02T18:37:01.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should try is replacing the battery completely, contrary to what you're guessing. Whether or not you can turn on your headlights or turn on your radio has little bearing on the health of your battery and whether it can start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you haven't ever replaced the battery since buying the car in 2008 and now the car is having trouble starting sometimes is a dead giveaway. The average battery goes strong for about 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T19:26:50.497" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T19:26:50.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="585" CreationDate="2013-05-02T22:24:56.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Chevy Tracker on which I will be isolating the rear differential. The reason is that the pinion bearings have had extreme lube starvation do to a axle seal leak which lead to catastrophic failure. The vehicle value doesn't compare to the price of a new/used rear end, or the time it would take to pull each component and inspect for wear/damage. Time and money replacing damaged parts and ensuring proper backlash and end play spec is met. I'll just isolate the rear end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a few things to think about. The difference in radius between the front drive shaft and rear drive shaft results in a very different torque load. Plus even if you isolate the rear axle you would still need to keep lubrication in it. (If it moves you need lube) So make sure you don't have any axle seals leaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transfer case might be chain driven meaning that is your torque limit. The chain will break before your front drive shaft will more than likely. Or it has a planetary rear set for the ranges - Which you won't know till you're on the side of the road. Transfer case heat will be higher given the 100% torque flow to the front differential. For in town use I don't see problem with it. Hard acceleration will be a big no,no. Change the transfer case and front diff lube if you decide to proceed.             &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3105" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T09:51:19.413" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T09:51:19.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5973" CreationDate="2013-05-03T15:36:12.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the front/rear speakers are powered directly off of the head unit (high-level). So I would have to use high-level inputs for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the door-subwoofers and rear subwoofers are powered by their own amps and the head-unit sends a low-level input to them. For these I plan to use the low-level setting on the amp to capture this cleaner signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these I can take from the rear of the factory head-unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T15:36:12.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-04T02:44:28.903" Score="2" ViewCount="30822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an ELM327 adapter from China and was very satisfied with it. It was working fine with Torque and other OBDII apps for Android, and I could always pair with it using &lt;strong&gt;1234&lt;/strong&gt; as the bluetooth PIN code as soon as I plugged it in the car and turned on bluetooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a little more than a month plugging it in after turning on the ignition and removing it after turning off, one day it just refused to accept the &lt;strong&gt;1234&lt;/strong&gt; pin code, and since then it never accepted it anymore. I wonder if the bluetooth module might have been somehow reset or its memory corrupted in some way so the current password might have changed, but before I go out the trouble of making a little software to brute force crack the 4 digit pin I'd like to know if anyone ever had the same problem and, if so, whether it was possible to recover from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3082" LastEditorUserId="3082" LastEditDate="2013-05-04T19:16:00.943" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T01:34:32.707" Title="My ELM327 OBD-II adapter is not responding anymore to its original bluetooth PIN (1234). Is it possible to recover access to it?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2013-05-04T05:25:44.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just remove the cylinder head and rotate the crankshaft. When you put back the head the pulley has two lines make sure their horizantal and just put everything back together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T05:25:44.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6021" CreationDate="2013-05-04T13:56:19.983" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will soon start my studying for a driver's license and I'm a bit curious about the behavior of the automatic gear.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I know that some modern automatic cars are equipped with a DSG gear while most are equipped with &quot;standard&quot; gear which is made of &quot;complex hydraulic systems&quot;.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt that when a bus (probably not equipped with DSG) put the gear into D mode from N while still pressing the brakes, the bus started shaking and produce louder engine sounds. I assume that what is happening is that the clutch (or whatever) went into the friction point where the engine isn't completely connected to the wheels, but still transfer power (I took physics, I know the difference between static and dynamic friction) to the wheels, therefore the sound and vibrations.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the DSG car I haven't felt it. I also know its a more efficient gear. Is it smart enough to completely &quot;press the clutch&quot; to separate the engine from wheels and only attach when the brakes is not pressed, or am I wrong? Is my guess about &quot;standard&quot; gear correct?&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3112" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T19:22:16.203" Title="Multiple questions about the functionality of the gear" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6029" CreationDate="2013-05-04T19:10:55.270" Score="1" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some concerns with my car's engine temperature.  Last weekend after being stopped at an intersection, the engine temperature went up higher than usual, about 75% of the way to the red line.  I believe the AC was on.  Once we started moving though, it came back down to normal (just under 50%, maybe 45% or so) and it was fine the rest of the night, even when stopped.  It was in the high 70s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has been fine during my relatively short commute all week, about mid 50s outside temp in the morning and high 70s in the evening rush.  I had the car in to put the summer tires on and asked them to check the radiator fluid, and they said it seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today the same thing happened on the way to the mall, only a bit further than my work is from my home.  And on the way home, the temp was fine until we had some stop and go lights in a 25 mph zone.  Once we got moving again though it dropped to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radiator fan is operating, I've heard it come on while driving, and it's also been running after I shut the car off if needed.  I've checked and haven't found any evidence of a leak, and since the service station didn't say they had to top off the fluid, I'm assuming it was fine (and I was told they didn't see anything unusual with the level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no check engine or other warning lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the car new, and I don't ever remember seeing the temperature go above the half way, even running the AC in much hotter outside temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what this might be, and how the problem can be isolated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T01:06:36.887" Title="2003 Acura TLS running hotter than usual" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|radiator|acura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6017" CreationDate="2013-05-05T19:22:16.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard automatic transmission doesn't use clutches in the sense of cutting off power from the engine to wheels. It uses what is called a torque converter which separates the power of the engine from the transmission through a viscous fluid. This allows the engine to continue to rotate even though you have the brakes applied and have stopped the transmissions input shaft. This just means the brake force is overcoming the force of the fluid trying to rotate the input shaft. Once you let off the brake the fluid will rotate the transmissions input shaft and you will start to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bus likely what happens is that in neutral the input shaft is spinning freely because it isn't connected to the stationary wheels once he put the vehicle in drive the input shaft was locked to the rotation of the wheels (none) meaning that the fluid is now pushing against an immovable object which in turn increases the load on the engine. This may cause the engine to drop in rpms causing vibration until the ECU can adjust to the load and increase the rpms back up to the idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't studied DSG transmissions but what I understand about them is that they are two manual transmissions stuck together and electronically controlled. I assume that when you stop one drivetrain is in neutral (or clutch disengaged) and the other drivetrain is waiting in 1st with the clutch disengaged. Once you let off the brake the clutch engages putting you into 1st and the other drivetrain goes into second until you activate the shift. The difference being there is no torque converter which is putting a load on the engine while you are in drive but stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T19:22:16.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="204" CreationDate="2013-05-06T00:10:16.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this happen in my 2003 Acura TL after getting cheap brakes at Midas.  I believe it's because the pads were not the same material as it should have been, such as ceramic vs semi-metallic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:55:01.437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:55:01.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2013-05-06T10:37:32.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can make out the changes and confirm whether the odometer was rolled back by the following procedures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the Gearshift Lever for wear and tear, if the inscribing is smooth and shiny, avoid it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the pedals (gas, clutch brake) for excessive use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver side door sill should not be worn out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the oil filler cap for debris and oil gumming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3098" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T12:21:26.283" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:21:26.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-06T14:57:19.903" Score="2" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my Toyota Camry Hybrid new in 2008.  I specify Hybrid because I know the weight distribution is somewhat different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've driven 50,000.  I live in South Florida.  I've already replaced all four tires on this car twice.  Last time in June 2012 with Yokohamas.  I get them rotated on my 6000 mile oil changes (the suggestion for the newer cars was less frequent changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new tires are already going bald.  I'm going to have to buy another four tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on?  Ideas?  I can add as much additional evidence as we need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HISTORY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will provide a history as soon as I can; apparently I don't have all the receipts.  Alignment numbers won't be able to be provided without further request from the dealer; Toyota aligns to &quot;Factory Specs&quot; according to the receipts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="3120" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T21:18:23.510" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T21:18:23.510" Title="Why does my Toyota Camry Hybrid (2008) keep consuming tires?" Tags="|tires|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-06T18:34:49.307" Score="2" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the specification of the &lt;strong&gt;CAN-BUS&lt;/strong&gt; signals for the &lt;strong&gt;Ford Transit connect 2013&lt;/strong&gt;. Does anyone know who might have done this reverse engineering already? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'm looking for signals related to fuel consumption for this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3122" LastEditorUserId="3122" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T13:53:40.963" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T14:18:47.177" Title="CAN-BUS signals of Ford Transit needed" Tags="|ford|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6028" CreationDate="2013-05-06T18:45:00.623" Score="6" ViewCount="3179" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are always better ways.... I'm up to reverse engineer some CAN-BUS signals. Before I start, I'd like to discuss with guys who done this before and are willing to share their methodology. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in Hardware and Software used to achieve the goals of identifying CAN signals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one with experience? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PD: it would be nice to have the tag 'reverse engineer' on this site :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3122" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:10:31.100" Title="What is the best way to reverse engineer the signals of a CAN-BUS?" Tags="|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6027" CreationDate="2013-05-06T20:10:31.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this might be a great question for the reverse engineering site that's in beta, I'll give you my take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hardware Options&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) They make an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9555&quot;&gt;ODB II &amp;lt;==&gt; UART&lt;/a&gt; hardware interface, that will give you serial access to your CAN signals. You can effectively read and write signals to the bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) There are boards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freescale.com/files/32bit/doc/fact_sheet/IMX53SBRAUTFS.pdf&quot;&gt;Freescale's SABRE Automotive Infotainment&lt;/a&gt;, which is a single board computer that has a CAN chip on-board. This board will run linux and is heavily supported by the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Software Options&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I'll address the linux software. A mainstream option for linux and CAN is SocketCAN. SocketCAN uses the OS Network Stack for communicating with the CAN bus. This is attractive for several reasons, for me the fact that multiple user space applications can read/write to the bus (just like the TCP/IP protocol). I found the kernel documentation extremely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is test software called &lt;code&gt;cantest&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;candump&lt;/code&gt; that will show what's being picked up on the bus, your best chance for reverse engineering the signals is to play around with certain functions of the car and look for repeating signals, such as pressing the the hvac button (for example) and looking for repeating signals on the bus. Diagnostic codes should be googlable or present in the repair manual possibly so that's easy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:10:31.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2013-05-06T20:54:11.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said that the service station didn't mention having to top up the coolant, but I'd start by checking the coolant level yourself. The coolant overflow bottle should be prominent in the engine compartment, and the min/max levels should be well marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant level is good, perhaps you have a failing thermostat. This could result in higher than normal operating temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some vehicles have a two-speed radiator fan. While you state that you can hear the fan running, if it is a two speed fan, perhaps the high speed is not kicking in, and you're getting only low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:54:11.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6031" CreationDate="2013-05-06T22:09:26.597" Score="4" ViewCount="1857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to have some work done on the part of the body that connects the roof to the rest of the car, and I'm wondering what is that piece of the car &lt;em&gt;called?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYmm7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I'm specifically wondering about the piece between doors (but not on the doors themselves) on a 4-door sedan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3123" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T22:16:16.197" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T22:16:16.197" Title="What are the struts connecting the roof to the rest of the car called?" Tags="|part-identification|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2013-05-06T22:15:25.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the B-Pillar, the one at the front that the windshield is attached too is the A-Pillar, the one at the back after the rear door is the C-Pillar, if there was one behind that like in a station wagon or SUV it would be the D-Pillar and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pillar_%28automobile%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More info here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBodZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T22:15:25.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2013-05-06T23:17:09.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one headlight dies and gets replaced then the new lamp is usually brighter then the old one. This bothers me and I usually replace both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the working old lamp and the next time a lamp fails I replace it with that, resulting in two slightly dimmed headlights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T23:17:09.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-07T01:07:31.600" Score="2" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this seat belt warning light on my dash for a few weeks now. My dealer says the wiring to my driver seat is gone and replacing it could cost close to 800 USD. Is there a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T10:49:37.083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T11:22:51.840" Title="'99 Audi A4 seat belt warning sign" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|audio|warning-light|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6040" CreationDate="2013-05-07T08:00:31.893" Score="1" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I bleed a clutch for a Ford Econovan 1989 model after putting in new master cylinder kit? as in where is the bleed nipple? It sure isn't the one on the steering column, it only works for brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastEditorUserId="3125" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T08:44:48.140" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:58:30.680" Title="How to bleed clutch for Ford Econovan 1989" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6045" CreationDate="2013-05-07T08:36:23.000" Score="1" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I have started losing my brakes in that they won't ease on, the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor then at the last little bit the brakes engage fully and pretty much make the tires lock up. I noticed a small leak from the clutch master cylinder above the clutch pedal and am in the process of putting a new kit in for that. Is the brake and clutch working off the same unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T10:32:32.540" Title="Is brake working with clutch in ford econovan 1989?" Tags="|ford|brakes|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6033" CreationDate="2013-05-07T10:59:50.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wiring controlling the seatbelt warning lamp will be connected to the seatbelt stalk (i.e. the bit you plug the belt into). Depending on how this is fixed to the car it may indeed go through the seat. At its most simple, it is simply two contacts that are bridged by the belt buckle to close a circuit, and if that is the case then simply bridging the appropriate wires would trick it into thinking the belt was engaged, and switch off the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, many cars of that age have explosive seatbelt pre-tensioners, which are triggered in the event of a crash (by the same triggers as the airbags) to tighten the belts and stop you getting whiplash. Therefore, be very careful before messing with this wiring, as you don't want to either prematurely trigger them, or render them inoperable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T10:59:50.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-07T11:01:39.067" Score="2" ViewCount="1613" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford Focus seems to attract scratches quite badly, and it got to the point that I would like to try and fix them. All of them are rather small, resulting from parking in bushes, careless opening of doors, etc. The metal is not bent, so I would think it should be enough to just paint them over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of scratches: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deeper ones, as if someone used a sharp object and just made a cut. They are all the way to the metal, have sharp edges but are very narrow (1-2mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider ones, that don't actually go all the way to the metal, don't have sharp edges, but still are visible (e.g. when another car touched our with his side mirror).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already bought matching paint, but I don't know how to apply it, so that the results are best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I prepare the surface?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools should I use to apply the paint?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I do anything after the paint has dried?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate detailed answers, because I am complete newbe in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T20:30:34.660" Title="Fixing small scratches on the body paint" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2013-05-07T11:42:30.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to need a compressor with a paint attachment if you want to do it properly. You're going to need to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sand down the scratch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smooth the area with a very fine grain sandpaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray a coat of paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let paint dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat steps 2 to 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply one or more layers of clear coat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking your car to a body shop and asking them how they would go about doing it + how much they're going to charge you. It should give you the best idea about how to go about it and how much effort it's going to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T11:42:30.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2013-05-07T14:20:57.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the car was due for it's MOT and service I took it into the garage who diagnosed worn front brake pads and reccomended replacement. Since the replacement of the pads I have not had any further issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T14:20:57.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6034" CreationDate="2013-05-07T15:03:14.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a bleed nipple down by the slave cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/c-m5F0zEvyo?t=18m&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T15:03:14.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6109" CreationDate="2013-05-07T15:42:52.200" Score="1" ViewCount="5714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching over the past week or so trying to educate myself as much as possible before going ahead and trying to build an exhaust flame kit from scratch (the ones on sale on the internet are ridiculously overpriced for essentially and some assorted electronics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda CBR (motorbike) and I want to &lt;s&gt;split the fuel line with a small electric fuel pump and a NOS fogger in the exhaust.&lt;/s&gt; Have a separate fuel supply (probably a propane canister) with a solenoid valve and a spark (plug + coil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - does anyone know of any good documentation on creating/installing these kinds of set ups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T11:00:41.283" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:29:21.917" Title="Exhaust Flame Kit" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-system|exhaust|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6043" CreationDate="2013-05-07T18:48:05.393" Score="2" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did some work on my throttle body (had it removed, cleaned all the valves, etc.) and after I put it back together I noticed something strange. Every once in a while, after the car has been stopped for a minute (so when leaving the garage or after waiting at a red light, etc.) the throttle gets stuck on idle, and I have to push really hard on the pedal to get it to unstick. I did some looking around and I noticed two things: the problem is not in the cable, the throttle plate assembly is somehow stuck, either inside or outside the throttle body; once I unstick it I cannot get it stuck again by hand, no matter how hard I try. The only way to replicate the issue is to drive around until it happens. What could be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T20:21:44.563" Title="Throttle randomly gets stuck in closed position" Tags="|air-intake|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6042" CreationDate="2013-05-07T20:21:44.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the car running when you try to &quot;get it stuck again by hand&quot;? If not, remember that when the car is running with the throttle closed, there is vacuum being pulled against the throttle butteryfly by the running engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there's some play in the pivot or the assembly that allows the intake vacuum to pull the butterfly into a position where it binds.  If the car isn't running while you're manipulating the throttle by hand, the assembly may not &quot;suck&quot; itself into the &quot;stuck&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T20:21:44.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2013-05-07T20:30:34.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wider scratches are just surface scratches, you may be able to make them disappear by polishing/buffing the area using a suitable polishing or rubbing compound. Some of these products are specifically labeled as &quot;scratch removers.&quot; Make sure the product you choose is labeled as clear coat safe. Essentially you want to bring the level of the surrounding paint/clear coat down to the level of the scratch. This requires no painting, and can give great results (better than applying more paint on top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you bought is a nail-polish-type bottle of touch-up paint, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXmDt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;touch-up paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it can be very hard indeed to make a good repair of a deep scratch. This type of paint/applicator is good for fixing stone chips and such. Just follow the prep and painting instructions that came with the paint. Really I think of this as just being about getting some paint onto the body to avoid future rust. It never ends up blending very well with the surrounding paint in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T20:30:34.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2013-05-07T23:25:40.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the systems are separate. The brake system should only need to be bled if the system has been opened or a leak has allowed the level to drop to the point that it is pumping air. If bleeding aleviates the symptoms you need to find the point at which the air is entering the system. You should be aware that the master cylinder can fail without a visible leak present. The fluid just leaks around the piston instead of being pushed out. If the master cylinder has run dry you must bleed the master cylinder prior to bleeding the brake lines. The clutch slave/master is bled using the same technique as  brake lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T23:25:40.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6034" CreationDate="2013-05-07T23:43:44.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this model uses a hydraulic throwout bearing to disengage the clutch. Some brands come pre-bled with a clutch mastercylinder,hose and slave as one assembly. Look for some type of cover on the bell housing that will allow access to the throwout bearing. You may be able to follow the hydraulic line to the tranny to get an idea where to look. You may be lucky and find a bleeder nipple you can reach. If there is no access then the transmission must be removed to repair or replace the throwout bearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T19:58:30.680" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:58:30.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2013-05-07T23:58:10.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people that do this tend to keep their methods secret. I have seen it done at carshows,races etc and from the smell I can tell you they aren't burning gasoline. The issue with using fuel from you tank is these things burn large amounts of fuel and you have a relatively small tank that is fairly close to you body. Any malfunction or miscalculation could be deadly. At the least you may consider getting the installation instructions from a commercially available kit so you'll be aware of some of the safety factors built into the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T23:58:10.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5698" CreationDate="2013-05-08T14:11:11.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out, it was the alternator that was getting weak or eventually dying. I took my car to the shop because my battery light came on whenever I started one morning and eventually had to tow it to the shop because my car died. The alternator broke and the bearings in the water pump were shot and needed replacing, according to the shop. Now with a new alternator and a new water pump, there is no rattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T14:11:11.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2013-05-08T14:11:54.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly... Remember, not all turbocharged engines use wastegate's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is say your engine is turning at 2000 RPM's with no load, now you put on a load, the RPM's drop and to bring it back up to 2000 RPM's you have to add throttle which is dumping fuel in to the engine. As you dump fuel, your increasing the combustion pressure, and ultimately the higher exhaust pressure's are going to spin the turbine fast, and produce more boost which will increase the combustion pressure even more (more O2 now available). See, on a engine with no load, even without a wastegate the turbo is not doing much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and to make things a bit more complicated here, on a diesel engine it works similar but different. There is no intake air regulation on a diesel, the intake is always unrestricted and output is determined by the amount of fuel injected. This is why when diesel's rev they put out a lot of smoke until the engine catches up. Turbo charged diesel's rely on the turbocharger itself as a form of intake air regulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3131" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T19:13:42.167" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T19:13:42.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6025" CreationDate="2013-05-08T16:11:02.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your alignment.  Are the tires going bald on one side of the tire more than the other? For instance are they more bald on the inside or outside of the tire?  Usually this is caused by bad alignment.  Brian said it right, if you have the printout of an alignment post that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW are all 4 tires bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T16:11:02.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2013-05-08T16:35:48.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced a bad cooling fan relay that would come on and off at leisure. The system had a lot of gas in the cooling system, I bled the system while adding coolant. Runs like a charm now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3133" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T16:35:48.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2013-05-08T21:57:30.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've had overheating problems and unable to get it fixed or checked out immediately, driving with the heat on full blast (yes, in the summer) is an excellent way to reduce the engine temperature and get you to where you need to go without damaging your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T21:57:30.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-08T23:26:52.317" Score="3" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using M1 in my jeep since I bought it with 22k miles on it.  I now have 31k and i am thinking about getting M1 Extended Performance which is supposed to last 15k miles between oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an oil filter that I could trust to last 15k miles?  Or should I just stick with normal oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T13:01:50.903" Title="15k mile oil filter" Tags="|oil|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6074" CreationDate="2013-05-09T02:38:12.047" Score="2" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the oil on my mom's Prius today, which is 3200 miles or so since I replaced it last.  The car only takes 3 quarts of oil, but only drained a little over 2 quarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My jeep, on the other hand, takes 4.5quarts of oil, and drains 4.5quarts when I replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the proper oil in the prius so I don't see why so much of it would burn off.  Is this normal for this car, or should I be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T02:09:40.403" Title="Prius burns off oil very fast. Is this normal?" Tags="|oil-change|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6056" CreationDate="2013-05-09T11:25:51.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the owner's manual.  If that doesn't say, contact your Toyota service department and have them check the maintenance manuals.  Different cars have different acceptable burn off/losses.  For example, my Toyota MR2 is within specification as long as it doesn't burn more than 1 quart every 1000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T11:25:51.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2013-05-09T11:42:29.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan of running 15k miles between changes myself (while the oil may be stable that long, you're also circulating all the contaminants that your oil picks up much longer), but if you choose to do so, I'd use the matching oil filter.  If M1 Extended Performance oil is what you choose, use the M1 Extended Performance oil filter that goes along with it.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T11:42:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5415" CreationDate="2013-05-09T14:32:04.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest your best bet is to either speak to a mechanic you trust about it or get down to your nearest breakers yard and show them the part. Also Googling the part number can sometimes give some good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, if you don't get the part from a car that matches your cars specification then there is a high chance something will end up not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T14:32:04.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6064" CreationDate="2013-05-09T14:41:32.950" Score="11" ViewCount="12061" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is involved to recharge the Air Conditioning System? I believe you need a machine to do it, so I am guessing you can't do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T16:14:21.367" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T18:40:56.720" Title="What is involved to recharge the Air Conditioning System?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6055" CreationDate="2013-05-09T14:57:02.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Brian either use the M1 Extended Perf oil filter or maybe look at the AMSOIL Ea oil filters which I use and are quite good. I change my oil once a year with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you might want to look into bypass oil filters. Amsoil sells these but im sure you can get them elsewhere as well basically what it does is run 15% of the oil through a much finer filter to catch the finest of particles this can extend your drain intervals quite a bit with premium oil. All the oil will be filtered every 5-10 minutes so it should collect just about all the free floating debris in the oil. You can then change this filter either every change or every other change depending on how big of a filter you get and how long you wait between changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a bypass filter kit but haven't found the time to install it yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T14:57:02.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2013-05-09T15:04:04.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_XkaAHvgM0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D.I.Y.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdCbIPGM00k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car Air Conditioning Recharge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is recommended that you should recharge your air conditioning system every 2 years with gas and lubricant, in order to keep it running efficiently. This is not included as part of a routine car service and so it can often be overlooked. If your car is more than 2 years old it is more than likely due a re-gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This service ensures that your air conditioning system is working efficiently by testing the gas pressure to see if it has dropped. A drop in gas pressure will result in a loss of cooling efficiency which will make your engine work harder and in turn use more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to it's dehumidifying properties, when operating fully efficiently, your air conditioning system will also de-mist your windscreen more rapidly in cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3843891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3843891&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Con Service:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial system test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check system components such as hoses, belts,&#xA;condenser,compressor, fans, electrics etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check internal system&#xA;controls, flaps, heating etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recover any existing refrigerant and&#xA;oils from the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum A/C system to detect any leaks or&#xA;blackages&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regas (recharge) A/C system with refrigerant to vehicle&#xA;specific levels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add A/C oil and leak detection dye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leak test components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full post re-gas system test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pollen Filter can also be replaced but is charges separtaely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mot-basingstoke.co.uk/motcentre.asp?svc=repairs&amp;amp;pg=aircon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mot-basingstoke.co.uk/motcentre.asp?svc=repairs&amp;amp;pg=aircon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T15:04:04.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2013-05-09T15:04:33.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A good video here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it depends whether the system is empty and needs to be completely vacuumed and refilled or if you just want to top it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to top off the system you can probably just purchase a kit from your auto store and do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the system is completely empty just take it to a shop and let them handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T15:04:33.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2013-05-09T18:40:56.720" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer it's not a DIY project. There are many things that need to be checked, specialized equipment, and a mistake can cost you a lot of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's against the law to work on AC without a licence in some areas, so check local laws and regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons the AC is not cooling and a little low on refrigerant is one of them. Topping off the system with a DIY can &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work. The cars on the road to day are less forgiving to over/under charge of refrigerant. Being off by as little as 3 - 4 oz is enough to have a major performance hit, or no cooling at all. Too much refrigerant will damage the compressor as well, this can be a slow death so you may not even realize your recharge caused the compressor failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerant Oil - Even with the correct equipment it can be difficult to get the oil amount correct. Too little you burn up the compressor, too much can affect the performance or damage the compressor. Using the wrong oil can also damage the compressor. If it's a hybrid with electric AC really don't mess with it,the cost of those compressors run in the thousands and are easy damaged with the incorrect oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AC systems don't use up refrigerant and if it's low there &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a leak. When refrigerant leaks out it takes oil with it, so if you keep topping it off without added oil you'll damage the compressor. Some of the cans have oil in them but that might give you an overcharge of oil leading to compressor failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=3843891&quot;&gt;As for this guy&lt;/a&gt;, I'd stick to more reputable sources for automotive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is recommended that you should recharge your air conditioning&#xA;  system every 2 years with gas and lubricant, in order to keep it&#xA;  running efficiently. This is not included as part of a routine car&#xA;  service and so it can often be overlooked. If your car is more than 2&#xA;  years old it is more than likely due a re-gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to service your AC system on a regular basis but recharging it every two years is excessive and a waste of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T18:40:56.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-10T06:05:35.040" Score="2" ViewCount="10491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Escape V6. I'd have to say a couple of months ago my oil light popped on (most of the time only when I hit the brakes), then it would kind of blink a lot until I was on the gas again. Over time, after I drove for probably 20 minutes or so it would pop on and stay on while driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked my oil level at least once a day and it was always between the minumum and max line (also it is time for a oil change but I wanted to try and fix this first because of its chance of being major). I kept driving and keeping an eye on my levels. A few time it got a little low where I would add a half a quart and it would be fine again, but never low enough that my oil light should come on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after some time my coolant light would pop on and off. I also checked my reservoir and my coolant isn't low at all and my car does not overheat. They both came on at same time for a while but neither were low. Then, after some time my oil light quit coming on, but now my coolant light is on and stays on but the car is not low on water and my car never overheats. I looked under the hood at this point more thoroughly (I know I should have done so ahead of time but since it was not low on oil or water I just figured it was a sensor) because I noticed after driving that when I park there is white smoke coming out from out from underneath the hood for a minute or so after turning off and you can smell in the AC air and heat of something burning, but I cant tell if its coolant or oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked both were still full, my oil was just above minumum mark but that shouldn't cause the oil light to come on previously, even though it hadn't been coming on for a while, only the coolant light is on now, but it is still topped off and fine and there are no obvious leaks. On the cover to my engine you can see a big dark spot were some kind of fluid had been leaked on to it and got hot and burning on there, but I dont know if it could have been oil from before or coolant from now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to remind you my coolant and oil has never got low enough to cause light to come on, my car does not overheat. It does however have a burning smell in the AC and heat when driven for a while (I would say at least a 25 minute drive), when you stop white smoke comes out of hood and lately I've been noticing it sounds like it is running kind of rough when idling (kind of got a bit of vibration or maybe something else like it shakes the care a little bit when idling and engine doesnt sound normal when idling) so I parked it until I figure this mess out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody got any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T09:54:05.470" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T05:16:49.393" Title="Having Trouble with my 2003 Ford Escape oil light and coolant light" Tags="|ford|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2013-05-10T07:13:51.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a smiliar problem wich was fixed by cleaning up the battery cables and making sure when putting them back on that they are secure and do not move, therfore giving them a good connection. I have had a similar problem with my alternator giving out, but usually when this is the problem you will also notice things while driving ( power surges in head lights, gauges go crazy, lights going on and off inside car, just stuff like that ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had another similar problem in my Ford Escape a while back and cleaned and tighted battery cables and didnt work took it to shop and they said my battey cables themselves were bad and needed replacing, after that worked like a charm. Also, the way to clean erosion off your battery cables, there are two ways to do: They make a tool for it you can buy at Autozone which would be best way, but if not, take a wire brush and Coca-Cola, pour it on them ( after you have removed them from battery ) and take your wire brush and scrub them down and take towel when done, wipe them off and they will shine like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T09:38:54.210" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T09:38:54.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3520" CreationDate="2013-05-10T07:32:45.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried making sure that, for all your speakers in the car, the wire that hooks into the back of them could be loose and could be wiggling around when driving and causing it to go from bad to good connection which would cause the problem you're having. I had this same exact problem in my Honda Civic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, have you made sure that all your speakers are still good? If one is blown it could cause this ( not all blown speakers make that constient annoying sound some will fade in and out for a while until finally giving out all together ), and if its just giving out on you or going bad, they will normally fade in or out or quit on you instantly or make that annoying sound constantly. When you check your speaker wire, even if it is firmly still in your outputs follow the wire all the way to your speaker and make sure you're not getting a bad connection from a damaged wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T09:43:54.070" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T09:43:54.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6068" CreationDate="2013-05-10T10:10:48.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, on most cars (I don't know about the Escape) the oil and coolant warning lights don't warn you of low levels - The oil light warns of low pressure, and the coolant light of high temperature. Therefore, you could easily have low oil pressure while still having plenty of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first symptom you describe (the light coming on under braking/idle and flickering) is a classic sign of low pressure. The oil pump runs at engine speed, so when you're at idle, it runs slower and so pumps less oil round the engine. If the pump is worn out or the filter is partially clogged, the pressure could easily be low enough to cause problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it actually smoke that is coming out from the engine bay or steam? You should be able to tell from the smell (but be careful obviously, it'll be hot!).  Smoke and a burning smell would normally point to oil, as coolant tends to evaporate as steam rather than burning. Coolant doesn't normally leave a dark stain, that sounds more like oil - coolant deposits are usually reddish or bluish depending on the type of coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T10:10:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2013-05-10T10:53:09.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey be carefull but not overly worried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably everything was fine, the cap on de radiator keeps the water under pressure so it only boils above 120 C.  I was not boiling, only when you opened the cap and the pressure was gone. Very dangerous to open that cap on a hot engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T10:53:09.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6068" CreationDate="2013-05-10T11:46:34.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen similar symptoms a couple times before in other cars (I have no Ford experience).  In one case it was the oil pump failing (pump later suddenly seized up).  In 2 other cases that come to mind it was actually an alternator going overvoltage and freaking out the ECU causing it to pop lights when it shouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T11:46:34.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6056" CreationDate="2013-05-10T16:52:55.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 quart every 3000 miles seems to be well within the spec for just about every Prius, so it seems almost certainly acceptable for yours ( though we still haven't heard what year yours is ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T16:52:55.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-10T18:39:37.593" Score="2" ViewCount="3827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Chevrolet Lumina and recently I have had intermittent starting issues. My brother and I bought a new starter and put it in and it still wouldn’t start. After replacing the starter we’ve noticed that there was oil in the coolant reservoir. Could this be the culprit as to why it won’t start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3142" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T14:23:35.547" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T14:23:35.547" Title="1998 Chevy Lumina won’t start, crank, or click" Tags="|oil|chevrolet|coolant|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-11T04:00:49.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1552" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated, I have a 1975 Honda XL 250. It has a 1 cylinder 250cc ~24hp carbureted engine. The problem I'm running into is an inconsistent idle. In general it seems to have a low idle (what I want it to idle at), and a high idle. Sometimes it will kind of stick at a high RPM and I'll have to open and drop the throttle real quick to get it down to where I set it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets much, much worse when it's cold out. Riding it just now, it was at 2000 rpm for the low end, and most of the time would stick up at around 4000 rpm. And it gets worse the colder it gets out. I've had it going crazy at over 6000 rpm. Seems the colder it gets, the less my technique of opening and dropping the throttle works. I've had to adjust my idle screw on the fly just to get it to go down to an acceptable idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have absolutely no idea what can be causing this. I recently cleaned the carb and rebuilt it with all new needles and everything. Any help is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T13:43:28.073" Title="1975 Honda XL 250 has erratic idle / high idle when it's cold out" Tags="|honda|troubleshooting|rough-idle|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6078" CreationDate="2013-05-11T13:43:28.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that this is the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have absolutely no idea what can be causing this. I recently cleaned the carb and rebuilt it with all new needles and everything. Any help is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding your carb is a tricky thing that if you don't get right could lead to the types of problems you have.  I would take it to a bike shop and have it professionally rebuilt.  OR  you could try adjusting the idle screw on the carb, but it sounds like you may have the wrong jets and/or needle in the carb.  You may have used the wrong kit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had these same issues after rebuilding a carb.  Took it in and paid someone to do it and was right as rain afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T13:43:28.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-11T16:09:42.000" Score="0" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive got a '99 Audi a4 and recently the airbag warning light has come on and won't go away. &#xA;The Audi dealer told me the wiring under the drivers seat is either worn or torn and a replacement would cost me at least $500.&#xA;Is there a way I can sort it out without forking out a stash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T20:02:18.277" Title="Airbag warning light" Tags="|supplemental-restraint-system|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-05-15T15:57:10.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-11T18:19:54.820" Score="5" ViewCount="5166" Body="&lt;p&gt;When applying the brakes on my 2013 Chevrolet Cruze, a loud funny noise happens. I'm frustrated that this is my first vehicle I have purchased on my own and all I can think is it's just my luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be taking my car in for a third time this month to the dealership in a couple of days and would like to ask the right questions or suggest something when I go in. I can't be the only one with an issue like this. Can anybody help me? I would greatly appreciate it. Any ideas or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my previous visits they have replaced my drums, pads and shoes. On my last visit I thought it was fixed or resolved but the noise came back a couple of days later. Almost seems worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3144" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T10:48:24.220" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T02:06:35.580" Title="Chevy Cruze with a funny sound when applying the brakes. The drums, pads and shoes among other things were replaced" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-11T18:54:12.610" Score="2" ViewCount="2609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had my front and back brakes, and the right front axle replaced by an auto repair shop. It cost around $600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, right after the changes, the car is now moving up and down a lot even on minor bumps, etc. DEFINITELY a very big change since before the repair. I argued with the mechanics, but they said it wasn't their fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what do I need to do to get it fixed? They suggested replacing the right-front strut (same side for which the axle was replaced), and then alignment at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1999 Elantra, &amp;lt;60k miles on it. I've already spent a lot of money on it, and don't want to continue dumping money into something I'll get rid of within 1-2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3145" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T10:58:53.753" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T19:03:07.543" Title="Bumpy ride after brake, strut replacement?" Tags="|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2013-05-12T10:33:47.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was finally fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the manual I suspected a piece called the TFI Module which is attached to the distributor ($30 piece). All of my symptoms were pointing to this part except the manual (and forums) said usually you need to let the car cool down for up to 5 minutes before it will restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New distributors come with TFI modules already attached and a complete Bosch distributor for my car was only about 150 bucks so I thought may as well take that out of the equation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, replaced distributor (with TFI module) and boom - no more issues :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T10:33:47.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-12T10:44:00.213" Score="3" ViewCount="6731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm rebuilding the forks on my CB400 project bike [ turning into a street tracker ;) ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process from the manual is pretty straight forward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Remove the front fork bolts and drain oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) With each fork bottom held in a vice, remove the socket bolt using the Allan key hand wrench and separate the pipe from the bottom case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Remove the front fork dust seal, 48mm snap ring and oil seal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One fork came apart no problems. I removed the bottom bolt which leads through and attaches to the oil lock piece, drained oil and slide the fork tube from the bottom case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other fork for some reason gets to a point when sliding out to separate the two pieces and it just 'clunks' and won't go any further. I've used a little force and nothing. It's like it is getting stuck on something / hitting something. From what I can see the oil lock piece is still in the bottom of the fork so it shouldn't be that. I can't think of anything else that would be obstructing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of had this happen before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T22:19:17.423" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:19:17.423" Title="Motorcycle Front Forks: Fork tube stuck in bottom pipe - clunking sound when trying to remove" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|suspension|forks|cb400|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6082" CreationDate="2013-05-12T10:54:36.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That price is for the dealership to replace/repair. It also covers their warranty, factory warrantied parts etc. - dealers are generally much happier about sorting problems with official parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could take it to an independent, which will be cheaper, but you won't get the factory warranties. They should hopefully still provide a warranty on their work - ymmv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our you could do it yourself, which should be cheapest but obviously you will get no warranty.  What is your risk appetite here? You can buy parts from a number of places - wrecker's yard, online oem parts stores or the manufacturer direct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are confident doing this yourself, it is one of the simpler repairs, but basically you get what you pay for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T20:02:18.277" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T20:02:18.277" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6083" CreationDate="2013-05-12T18:55:46.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't properly break in your pads/shoes then the squeal will likely just come right back. You have to avoid hard or excessive braking for at least 50km after doing a change like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your calipers could be bad and cause your pads to not seat properly or warp the rotors causing noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T18:55:46.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6084" CreationDate="2013-05-12T19:03:07.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like shocks or struts are blown. Maybe while replacing the front axle they damaged the strut or unseated the spring somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is strange that is started right after the service. Can you feel that it is coming from the front-right? Or is it affecting the whole vehicle equally? Getting new struts or shocks would most likely solve the problem. Can't really tell you whether they are at fault or not though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T19:03:07.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6176" CreationDate="2013-05-13T00:41:50.370" Score="3" ViewCount="30079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed my fuel filter, the connections to which are rubber fuel line fitted over metal pipes with bulging ends -- a bit like a barb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There's a photo at &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oH0Ns.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oH0Ns.jpg&lt;/a&gt; if you like.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hoses were an absolute beast to get off; I ended up using a pair of pliers to help me twist them enough to get started, which naturally made me worry about damaging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea when the filter was last changed; I assume that the hoses did, and are going to again, &quot;settle&quot; somewhat onto the connection. I'd like to put some kind of lubrication on the metal so that it's not quite such a fight at the next change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommendation I've seen that makes the most sense to me is Vaseline -- normally, of course, one shouldn't put petroleum lube on rubber, but this is fuel line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel or motor oil, along with silicone and dish soap have also come up. I want the lube to be persistent, though -- I can't imagine that the slipperiness of gasoline will still be there in another 30 months. Dish soap likewise tends to dry to a sticky film. I've heard rumors of silicone damaging catalytic converters when its makes it way into exhaust. Motor oil on my fuel lines sounds like a recipe for fouled plugs and injectors -- but maybe Vaseline would be too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pop the lines back off and apply a little jelly, or should I just leave it be and resign myself to the struggle next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T09:09:07.303" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T16:46:25.633" Title="Lubricating rubber fuel hose for easier future removal" Tags="|lubrication|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6092" CreationDate="2013-05-13T01:35:40.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the time you need a fuel filter change it is time to replace the hoses also. Simply cut the hose off the fuel line and replace it using new clamps.  When you get you filter ask the person at the counter for a foot of high pressure fuel hose. There was a time when they actually included the hose section and clamps in the box with the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T01:35:40.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6092" CreationDate="2013-05-13T03:11:01.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Earls hose lubricant.  It's sold for assembling AN fittings onto braided hose but I like it for what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2705" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T03:11:01.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6096" CreationDate="2013-05-13T09:29:04.023" Score="2" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a 2004 Toyota Corolla (Altise). I couldn't get the exact date of the last service but the guy said that the next service should be done in 3000km. I guess there is a standard set of things which are going to be checked during the upcoming service. Any idea where such list could be found? Also I'd like to know what is the advised frequency of services? This is my first car and I have only owned bikes until now. I know that I had to service my bike every 3000km but the service was different each time, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3000 - small service (only check and clean filters and change oil)&#xA;6000 - medium service (change air filter, change oil)&#xA;9000 - small service (again)&#xA;12000 - full service (oil, belt, air filter)&#xA;goes again ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These service points were defined by factory booklet I had with my bike. So just to summarize, I want to know where can I get the official information about services frequency and the list of what should be done during each service.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T12:07:30.347" Title="Toyota Camry 2004 service" Tags="|toyota|old-cars|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6095" CreationDate="2013-05-13T12:07:30.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in the owner's manual for maintenance and service schedules.  If you don't have the manual go here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/owners-manuals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/owners-manuals&lt;/a&gt; put in your car and check out the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can go here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php&lt;/a&gt; and put in your car, year and which mileage you are currently at and it will tell you exactly what needs service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T12:07:30.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2013-05-13T12:13:59.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil in the coolant reservoir is usually a pretty bad sign! Are there signs of coolant in the oil as well (a creamy mayonnaise-like substance)? Either of those are signs of Head Gasket failure, which would eventually stop the engine from starting, but would normally give a lot of other signs first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say it started off as an intermittant problem - is it still, or will it now not start at all? If it won't even click, then either the starter solenoid has failed (i.e. you've been sold a dud starter), or no power is getting to the starter. Get a multimeter, and check that when you turn the key, 12v appears on the solenoid connection (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter - the big one should have 12v all the time). Depending on the location of the starter, it might be easier to disconnect this first, or add a temporary lead from there to somewhere you can get to easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't appear to be getting power, try connecting a bit of wire to battery positive, and touching it to that connector, and see if you hear it click and/or try to turn the engine. BE CAREFUL, as if it does turn it over, fans might start spinning! If it does turn over, you know you have an electrical problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is getting power, try removing the new starter and testing it outside the car. If that works, it might also be worth checking that you can turn the engine by hand (with the battery disconnected and the ignition off, put a suitable sized socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and try to turn it with a long bar. It should turn evenly, but lumpy, with one 'lump' for each cylinder per rotation. It'd have to be a pretty spectacular failure for that to be a problem though, and you'd have noticed that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T12:13:59.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6099" CreationDate="2013-05-13T12:15:15.127" Score="3" ViewCount="9436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface: I drive a 2004 Peugeot 206, manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the motorway the other night, one of my tires blew out. I managed to pull over and change to the spare wheel in about 30 minutes (having never changed a tire before! Lesson learned!) but because it was dark I decided to leave the dipped headlights on in addition to the hazard warning lights. Additionally, I stupidly left the sat nav plugged in. As a result, when I got back in to start the car, my old battery had given up the ghost and was completely dead (soon enough, even the hazard warning lights stopped working).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being jump started the mechanic put a meter across the battery and said he suspected I may have some issue with the alternator or an earthing wire however, after driving for a while, the battery charged enough to start the car the next morning so the alternator is clearly working to some efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst driving after the jump start and while the battery was still very low on power, I noticed that when I applied the foot brake heavily, the engine would stall but I managed to bump start it on the existing forward momentum. I wonder whether this occurred because applying the foot brake caused the power draw on the alternator (from the brake lights) to be too much and there was no longer enough power to spark the engine (I am not much of a mechanic, this is only a suspicion). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I would think the alternator provides more power than the battery and this should not occur but if the alternator wasn't working at maximum efficiency, is this a plausible scenario and how would I confirm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since swapped in a new battery and the stalling has gone away, additionally, although I tried not to apply the brakes too heavily the morning after, I had no stall incidents with the slightly charged battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastEditorUserId="3151" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T12:38:52.407" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:04:28.763" Title="Why did my car stall when I used the foot brake?" Tags="|battery|alternator|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6098" CreationDate="2013-05-13T12:33:07.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to pull over and change to the spare wheel in about 30&#xA;minutes (having never changed a tire before! Lesson learned!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well done.  It's not the world's most challenging job but you can hurt yourself if you're stressed (say after a blowout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst driving after the jump start and while the battery was still&#xA;very low on power, I noticed that when I applied the foot brake&#xA;heavily, the engine would stall ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I would think the alternator provides more power than the&#xA;battery and this should not occur but if the alternator wasn't working&#xA;at maximum efficiency, is this a plausible scenario and how would I&#xA;confirm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you called it on the first try.  Keep in mind that the alternator has three major jobs (in a very simplified sense): producing spark, running the accessory systems (of which the headlights and power brakes are critical components) and charging the battery.  A deeply discharged battery is going to require significant continuous charge vs. a light trickle charge.  If you add an additional mechnical load on the system, you remove some of the available kinetic energy that was being converted into electrical energy.  If net energy dropped too low, you could below the critical voltage to maintain the idle revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car, I have a gauge showing the voltage in the system.  If you don't have a similar indicator, you can do a casual test by trickle charging your battery for a few hours (using a hardware store battery charger) and seeing if your car still stalls on braking.  Running the headlights and AC will also put additional draws on the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now remember, no stall is not the same as no problem.  However, a super dead battery is a lot of load for your little alternator to carry.  That was likely the cause of your stalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:04:28.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6098" CreationDate="2013-05-13T14:57:39.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under hard braking it is possible to lock a wheel. If you lock a wheel without disengaging the clutch you will stall the engine even if you are still moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however the stall occurs while the clutch is disengaged or while you are in neutral then either you are somehow losing voltage and therefore spark, or the brake vacuum is somehow effecting your air/fuel ratio which I guess could be possible if you have a leaking brake booster or check valve. (Might get too lean?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T14:57:39.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-13T19:02:01.423" Score="2" ViewCount="1421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Avensis which has the intake manifold rattle problem. I asked the dealer for a price on the new part and he quoted me €400. From a breakers yard they are hard to get and the going rate seems to be around €100, which is not in my budget at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://gorup-sinkovec.net/diy/rattling-noise-in-toyota-corolla-intake-manifold-solved/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;  and even though it's a bit unorthodox; it seems to have worked for many people and I would like to give it a go. My only question is about the gasket, and whether I'd really need to replace it or not. I have seen pictures of people taking off intake manifolds and the gaskets rarely seem to be damaged. I am on a very tight budget so I'd like to avoid buying the gasket if at all possible, but still I know the gasket is relatively cheap so I don't want to be unwise. What is the norm? Do mechanics routinely not replace intake manifolds or is it a case that you would replace it even if it looked OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 2002 and has about 150,000 miles on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:39:19.410" Title="Toyota Avensis Intake Manifold Rattle Fix - quesion about gasket" Tags="|engine|toyota|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6104" CreationDate="2013-05-14T09:47:50.197" Score="23" ViewCount="224344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to motorcycles, my flat mate taught me how to drive his two Royal Enfields around New Delhi, and for the past year and a half I've been taking care of them as they break down ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was just curious what the 'cc' actually means when you say a Hero Honda has 150 cc, or an Enfield as 350 cc, or a really beast Enfield has 500 cc.  I know vaguely that more cc is more powerful, but am curious as to how one could actually measure cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3153" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T14:11:58.903" Title="What does the 'cc' mean on a motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|power|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2013-05-14T10:17:16.443" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;cc is the size of the engine, in cubic centimeters - literally the volume of the cylinders. A larger cylinder can ingest more air (and more fuel), thus converting more energy per cycle than a smaller one, so making more power - assuming all other factors are the same, and there are many factors that affect power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure it by a simple volume calculation - area of the piston (pi x radius squared) x stroke x number of cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T10:17:16.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5302" CreationDate="2013-05-14T12:46:45.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On FWD cars the rear wheels do not transmit the power, they are free to rotate freely &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3155" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T13:36:54.983" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T13:36:54.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5920" CreationDate="2013-05-14T15:32:04.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TSB, or technical service bulletins, are most definitely covered under warranty by Ford &lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt; your car experiences the problem.  This is the key difference between a recall and a TSB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recall is a mandatory item that MUST be taken care of by the dealer regardless if the problems exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A TSB is simply a bulletin informing the dealership that this may be the problem and this is how you fix it.  After warranty, TSB items are out of pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:32:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6118" CreationDate="2013-05-14T16:41:00.290" Score="7" ViewCount="2379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would lug bolts be snapping off constantly and tires wearing faster on the passenger front wheel of a '98 Blazer, 4 wheel drive? The tire is wearing on the outside. It has had a front end alignment and the gentleman who ran the shop told me that the camber was all the way out. What do I have to do to correct this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the CV axle on that side and that's when the problem began, I also just replaced the hub as well, both about 5-6 months ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3158" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:48:19.267" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:48:19.267" Title="Lug nuts keep snapping off" Tags="|tires|troubleshooting|alignment|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2013-05-14T19:22:32.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know about the CB400's fork in particular, but on some forks the bushings won't fit past eachother to allow easy removal of the stanchion (&quot;pipe&quot; 6 on diagram) from the slider (&quot;case&quot;, 19 on diagram). Here's a partzilla diagram of a CB400F fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8QLx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Partzilla part diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some BMWs with SHOWA forks that I've worked on, the lower bushing (9, attached to pipe 6) won't fit through the installed upper bushing (8, pressed into the top of the case, 19).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is force. remove the spring, then fully compress the pipe into the case, then rapidly pull the pipe out of the case. Repeat until upper bushing 8 is driven out of case 19. The pipe will then be separated from the case. This is often referred to as the slide hammer technique--you're using the pipe as a slide hammer to remove the upper bushing. The seal will come out too (don't forget to remove circlip 15)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, since significant force is involved here, you want to be sure this procedure applies to your bike specifically. I'd ask around on some specialist CB forums. These bikes have a following, I'm sure you'll find your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T19:22:32.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2013-05-14T21:24:05.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick google search got me to here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t41589-diy-flame-thrower-exhaust.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t41589-diy-flame-thrower-exhaust.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got pretty good diagrams for the electrical part, I haven't gone through the whole document myself though. I imagine you'd want to adapt this guide to your needs and maybe read other ways people do flamethrowers, i.e. google for &quot;diy flamethrower&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also people selling instructions on how to do this on ebay (that's how the person got the info above in the first place). Here's one link, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/FlameThrower-Exhaust-Single-and-Duel-/110952173786?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item19d543d0da&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/FlameThrower-Exhaust-Single-and-Duel-/110952173786?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item19d543d0da&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are quite cheap, so maybe spending ten bucks on something like this would be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you have the fuel part covered (e.g. a pressured propane tank and a 12V activated valve, for example --- btw the pressured propane tank sounds very dangerous in case of an accident) then the electric circuit you'd need is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/buWq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mod to the wiring diagram for flamethrower&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to figure out a good relay valve to use with propane, something &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007D1U64E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, let me say that, in my humble opinion, nobody should be doing this, so if you do, please make sure you're not putting anyone else in danger. In particular, I would not drive with a pressurized propane tank attached to my car anytime there's a possibility of mechanical damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T21:25:30.040" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T21:25:30.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-14T22:37:43.360" Score="6" ViewCount="60838" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an odd question, I am sure, but we bought a used Mini Cooper, but it didn't come with an owner's manual. We have figured out how to open it with the key fob, obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem comes when we want to pop the trunk and quickly pull something out when the car is running. This Mini doesn't have the keyless start option. So we actually have to turn off the engine to get the key out to pop the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems ridiculous to me, since all the other cars I have driven have a latch somewhere inside the car to pop the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3160" LastEditorUserId="3620" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T00:22:12.477" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T04:25:45.067" Title="2009 Mini Cooper. How do I open the trunk?" Tags="|key|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6159" CreationDate="2013-05-14T23:22:06.300" Score="2" ViewCount="5839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Elantra 2002 with 84K miles. The transmission fluid is pretty dirty and it seems like it needs some attention. I did a little of bit search online and found out some people suggest that transmission fluid for old cars should not be flushed. They say it should only be changed because tranmission fluid flushing for old cars might release deposits and cause some damages later. So I don't know what it right? flushing or just changing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I bought this car a couple of years ago when it had 73K miles. I got half of the transmission fluid changed at 77K (maybe even less than half, don't remember). I don't know if previous owners ever changed or flushed the transmission fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T05:52:42.063" Title="Tranmission fluid changing vs flushing" Tags="|transmission|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6026" CreationDate="2013-05-15T00:45:33.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can petition Ford to release it, as they have for the Focus, Escape, and some other cars with their &lt;a href=&quot;http://developer.ford.com/develop/openxc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenXC&lt;/a&gt; SDK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can try to hack the OpenXC to work with it. I imagine the protocols are there, just slightly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T00:45:33.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6119" CreationDate="2013-05-15T03:17:34.713" Score="4" ViewCount="2425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like BMWs but I want an automatic.  I know how to drive a 5-spd but others will drive the car that do not.  That is an old car.  I know that automatic transmission is going to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I've always wanted to work on cars, just not all cars.  I need motivation.  I want to work on &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; car, one that I want to fix.  I'm not trying to do it for a living.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the other beginner, which is a good car to start on, but this is specific to BMW E30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T14:22:58.513" Title="Is a BMW E30 a hard car to start learning to fix on?" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6124" CreationDate="2013-05-15T04:56:18.950" Score="5" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want to get a little bit more familiar with whatever is going on under the bonnet, so I thought to buy an old car to conduct my experiments on it. What I had in mind - is trying basic servicing by myself and, as I gain a better understanding, maybe doing some more complicated tasks (like timing belt replacement with all the implications).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just heard that some cars could be really pain to fix/service as they have very specific/unusual layout (like some of the old French cars).So what I wanted to ask is - are there cars which considered to be easy for servicing? Kind of &quot;beginner&quot; cars..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T09:55:07.783" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T21:40:59.237" Title="Easily serviceable/maintenance cars" Tags="|old-cars|service|diy|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6126" CreationDate="2013-05-15T05:33:55.600" Score="19" ViewCount="31643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a brand new Toyota Innova. I need to install a a mac mini, 2 laptops and make this car a mobile office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know if I can install another car battery in parallel, and will there be any negative side effects ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that a battery in parallel should work, as both will charge and discharge together. And I will get enough power to charge phones while driving (or when engine is set to idle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will it take to get this working ? Or is it even possible ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T02:23:07.363" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T18:05:08.083" Title="Adding a additional battery to car" Tags="|electrical|battery|car|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2013-05-15T07:09:36.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely it can be done. Consider that this is common practice for boats and RVs. I myself added a second battery to my boat just to ensure I had enough juice for the stereo ( granted, if you kill the only boat battery you have, you can't just leave it parked in your driveway, you're stranded in a river or the ocean, a potentially dangerous situation ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting though that the Toyota Innova doesn't have a large engine, and you might need to upgrade your alternator in order to power 3 computers. You could either upgrade your alternator when you add the second battery or play it by ear and just buy a nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2002~Toyota~Camry~2.4L-I4-2AZ-FE/11034-270-xp.html&quot;&gt;alternator&lt;/a&gt; if you find that yours won't cut it ( the link is just an example ). You might also consider what's called a battery isolator in order to charge multiple batteries but only allow one battery to be run dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T07:09:36.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6107" CreationDate="2013-05-15T09:13:11.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Camber is the angle of the wheel on it's vertical axis - If you have wear on the outside of the tyre, then you have too much positive camber, i.e. the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom - the opposite of the diagram below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;), which shows negative camber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzigu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Negative Camber&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For it to be far enough out to cause such serious problems, I would surmise that something in the suspension is bent. At a guess, I'd say one of the lower arms, as that would lead to the bottom of the wheel being further in than it ought to be, as a bent arm is shorter than a straight one. You might be able to fix it by adjustment or adding shims (a common way of adjusting camber), but that only tends to give a small amount of adjustment - the best option is to replace the damaged part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T09:13:11.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6114" CreationDate="2013-05-15T09:39:47.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - no more or less than other cars of their era (late 80s - early 90s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was the age when cars started to get more complicated and electrical, so they are harder to fix than the previous generation, but much easier than a newer car with loads of electrics. The engine is all fairly accessible (especially if you get a 4-cylinder 316 or 318) and the structure all fairly traditional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue with them tends to be rust. Obviously this will depend on the climate where you live, but in the UK most of them have disappeared in the last few years as the cost of structural repairs has exceeded their value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try working on the gearbox yourself as a beginner, they are generally an expert topic - but there should be plenty of secondhand ones around if it does fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T09:39:47.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2013-05-15T10:04:41.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a localised question, but as you mention French cars I'm going to assume you're in Europe. Generally, the simpler a car is, the easier it is to fix, and older cars tend to be simpler than newer ones (less electronics, which you can't generally fix yourself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;70s cars tend to be pretty much all mechanical, 80s cars start to introduce basic electronic ignition systems, and fuel injection starts to come in towards the end of the 80s (I'm guessing those timescales are slightly different in the Americas). I personally learnt on late 80s/early 90s cars, but would say most things up to the late 90s should be ok to learn on. Avoid the higher-end stuff that'll have more to go wrong, and avoid Citroens with their hydraulic suspension. Fords or Vauxhalls tend to be quite good as they're fairly simple in their design, but they do rust easily... Land Rovers are good too, very agricultural, but you can get at everything and parts supply is very good and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T10:04:41.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2013-05-15T10:14:44.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Hillsons' answer, your best bet is to get a proper split-charge system with a leisure (aka traction) battery as the second battery. These are especially designed for powering equipment for long periods of time, with a different discharge pattern to suit prolonged low-level use, rather than a normal car battery which is designed for the short, heavy current draw required for starting an engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The split-charge system ensures that the starter battery always has enough charge to start the engine, then charges the second battery. Modern ones use clever electronics to avoid interfering with the car's own electrical systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T10:14:44.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6125" CreationDate="2013-05-15T11:57:26.320" Score="4" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Mazda 3 (SP 2.3), and the check engine light came on. I went out and bought a code reader that told me there are 2 codes. The first being the P0128 code and then the second is showing up as P0128 as well, except there is something that shows up right before the up and down arrows on the right side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Question:&lt;/strong&gt; What is this second code shown below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked around online and found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3460/what-should-i-do-about-ps0128-coolant-thermostat-coolant-temperature-below-the&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; that was definitely helpful on knowing what to look for. Since I imagine my coolant level is just fine, my &lt;strong&gt;Second Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Should the problem be the thermostat itself, where is it and how do I change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I have confirmed that my coolant level is just fine, within the min/max levels.  Do I need to jump to changing thermostats, or should I flush the coolant first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ElbxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2nd Code&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T20:26:37.687" Title="P0128: Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temp" Tags="|mazda|p0128|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2013-05-15T15:18:15.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the canonical answer to this question is probably a Honda Civic, anything up to late 90s. My reasons for this recommendation are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The parts are widely available and cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's an abundance of online information about doing repairs and maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is 4-cylinder inline and everything on the engine that needs regular service is easily accessible from above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moreover, it's even possible to rebuild the engine without removing it if you really want to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are plenty of little things that tend to need fixing to get experience on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T15:18:15.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6122" CreationDate="2013-05-15T16:18:36.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means it's a pending code, in other words it's a current and history code that's why it's listed twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZK0Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for you second question, it's most likely a stuck open thermostat it could be a faulty Engine Temperature Sensor, but most of the time that will set a different code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-19T20:26:37.687" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T20:26:37.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2013-05-15T19:11:31.540" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can be easily done, but based on your scenario it's not necessary unless you want to sit for extended periods without running the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to leave the vehicle running for Air Conditioning for instance then you don't need to do anything it should work fine as equipped from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some things to consider If you still want to install a second battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mounting Location&lt;/strong&gt; If there is room under the hood that's the best place, if you have to mount it inside you need to make sure you use a vented (to the outside) battery case. Batteries can put off explosive vapors when they charge and discharge so you don't want it venting inside the vehicle. Location will also limit the physical size of the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery Type&lt;/strong&gt; I would recommend a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_cycle_battery&quot;&gt;deep cycle&lt;/a&gt; battery over a car battery as they are designed to be repeatedly charged and discharged. They are the least expensive options. You can also look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery&quot;&gt;Gel Cell&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93metal_hydride_battery&quot;&gt;Nickel Metal Hydride&lt;/a&gt; (may not be suited for your application), or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery&quot;&gt;Lithium-ion&lt;/a&gt;. The more electrical capacity of the battery you choose the longer you can run without starting the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery Isolator&lt;/strong&gt; This will allow you to charge both batteries automatically but will not let you run down your starting battery. Keep in mind if you are using dome lights or anything else that's factory installed it will run the cranking battery down. You don't have to do this as simply connecting them in parallel will work, you just risk running down the cranking battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of battery isolators&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QP739.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurerv.net/high-performance-battery-isolator-140-amp-p-4005.html?utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_source=Froogle&amp;amp;gclid=CKKymfvmmLcCFStp7AodP0sALQ&quot;&gt;High Performance Battery Isolator 140 Amp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFJGH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kussmaul.com/091-139-2-12.html&quot;&gt;Auto Isolator I, Model #: 091-139-2-12&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factory equipped alternator should be sufficient for your application&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T19:20:50.673" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T19:20:50.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2013-05-15T20:08:26.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to get something that is rear wheel drive, a forward facing engine and transmission is simpler and easier to work on then a trans-axle plus it gives you more room to work. Look for something you see a lot of so that the parts and knowledge is easy to acquire, but also get something that you actually want to drive. Older two door pickups work rather well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2708" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T20:08:26.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6130" CreationDate="2013-05-15T20:16:30.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 VW was blinking a red thermometer as soon as I turned the car on. I checked the oil and water and it was fine. I drove car and white smoke started coming out of the engine and exhaust, there was a little black smoke also and the car just quietly turned off and now it just makes the starting sound but will not start. When I checked again the water  was very little and the oil also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3167" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T21:53:26.757" Title="Please tell me I did not kill My chole (1999 VW Beetle)" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6128" CreationDate="2013-05-15T21:24:30.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you drove the car with the engine that hot, you almost certainly did serious damage to the engine. Smoke would seem to support this theory. It's a bit odd that the temperature light was on as soon as you started the vehicle though. Had it been running just prior to the last start, or sitting cold? At this point, I'd say you're looking to figure out what happened and whether it's repairable. Worst case is probably complete engine replacement. Unfortunately given your description so far of what happened, I think your best case is likely to be major engine overhaul work, which would only make sense as an alternative to replacement if you feel up to doing it yourself (paying someone to do it will cost as much as a new engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T21:24:30.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6128" CreationDate="2013-05-15T21:53:26.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe your water pump failed? Causing your coolant to boil inside the block destroying seals and gaskets allowing water and oil to invade where they shouldn't, further boiling/burning into smoke and eventually stalling the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing you want to do is investigate what caused your cooling system to fail and also identify where your fluids went. Was there a massive leak or was it all boiled or burned? Is there now coolant in your oil or oil in your coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the starter still turn the crank over or has it seized? Run a compression test on the engine to see if the cylinders have been damaged (Don't start the engine though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely be looking at head gasket replacement at the very least. You might want to take it to a shop for diagnosis but buying a new engine or vehicle might be quicker and easier and probably even cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T21:53:26.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-16T01:48:57.803" Score="5" ViewCount="4963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1984 Honda GL 1200 standard wing and I am going to put straight pipes on it, however some forums say I will need to upjet the carbs, and others say I will not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone on this site ever put straight pipes on a GL1200? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how did it run on the factory jets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3168" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:04:26.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:04:26.800" Title="straight pipes and carb rejetting?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|exhaust|carburetor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-16T14:59:36.970" Score="8" ViewCount="83403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Honda Accord with automatic transmission.  Over the past several months, I've noticed a grinding sound immediately after cold-starting the engine.  It only lasts for a fraction of a second, doesn't continue once the engine is running, and doesn't happen if I shut the engine off and start it again a few minutes later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has 92,000 miles on it.  I've noticed that it burns oil pretty quickly, so I keep an eye on it and make sure to add more if needed.  Most recently, I got an oil change with a high mileage synthetic, but that has not solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this could be?  Is it a big deal?  I'm obviously worried about damaging the engine.  Is this a major thing?  Or is it something I can live with, provided I don't mind the frightening noise that occurs on startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help you can give is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3170" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T12:46:22.273" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T20:35:28.467" Title="Grinding sound during cold start?" Tags="|honda|oil|starting|noise|accord|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2013-05-16T15:52:11.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not much of a motorcycle person but by straight pipes you are referring to the exhaust correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so then if you are planning on going to a higher flow exhaust you probably don't need to change too much on the intake side. Less restriction exhaust frees up power by reducing the power losses from the piston having to push air out. It doesn't actually increase the total CFM of air through your engine (not significantly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you actually increase the amount of air going into the engine you need to adjust the fuel to suit the new amount of air (A/F ratio). In your case I don't think it would be necessary. With motorcycles I bet it would be easy to stick something in the exhaust pipe to check the A/F ratio like a Wideband sensor so maybe do that after and check to make sure it is within safe levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &quot;straight pipes&quot; are something else then just disregard this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T15:52:11.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2013-05-16T17:57:19.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a manual transmission, possibly the starter motor is slow to disengage and is grinding against the flywheel as the engine is firing up.  The low oil is very suspicious though and doesn't go along with that.  Could just be a coincidence.  Or, could be pointing to something far worse.  However, engine related startup scary noises are normally more of a rattling sound than a grind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T17:57:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:19:41.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/542/57&quot;&gt;What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T18:19:41.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-17T01:54:06.027" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good service online for tracking vehicle maintenance that either you do or have a workshop do? It'd be nice to have a service that sends emails and lets you track when you change your oil, coolant, belts, filters, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care if it's commercial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T20:26:05.717" Title="Online service for tracking maintenance" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6139" CreationDate="2013-05-17T03:48:12.430" Score="4" ViewCount="25066" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a Chinese 50cc scooter &quot;VIP Future Champion&quot; that won't start. He let the battery run down when it was still operable, over a year ago, and when he finally replaced the battery, it wouldn't start with the electric starter or the kick start. There are at least several things wrong with it, probably all stemming from storing it outside unused for a long period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no continuity through the electric starter button when it's pressed. Shorting across the terminals that go to the button does not make the starter operate either. However, I'm guessing this is just a matter of chewed or rusted wires, since running a wire from the positive battery terminal straight to the starter motor does make it turn over, but it still doesn't ignite and run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the ignition system. I was able to produce a spark from the end of the spark plug wire to the chassis, and the ground seems good everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple disconnected hoses that seem to be intake related, but with no obvious places to attach them. One was full of mess that looked like some sort of insect had tried to build a nest inside. I don't have pictures at the moment but I could probably take some tomorrow/soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and in case it's not obvious, we did put new fuel in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, my biggest problem is that I'm not at all familiar with scooters and don't know what to try or where to look for problems. I searched online but couldn't find anything similar to a Haynes manual for it, or any resources with good pictures and/or disassembly/repair instructions to know what I'm looking at and what I'm doing. Can anyone suggest where we should start looking for a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T10:22:25.293" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T23:06:19.970" Title="Scooter won't start" Tags="|starting|scooter|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2013-05-17T10:59:49.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your last paragraph is the question, I think it is far too broad. You would be best off getting the manual and with its help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reconnecting anything that should be connected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning anything dirty or full of insects etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check continuity of all wires individually and replace any that are faulty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check air inlets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move all mechanical parts and lubricate as necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see why I think it is too broad a question? There are so many things that could be wrong. Try the above items first, then if there is a specific problem, this site can be much more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; Here are an engine manual and a wiring diagram, found by googling the name of your scooter. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/pdf/GY6Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/pdf/GY6Manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/manuals_charts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/manuals_charts.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T19:08:00.913" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T19:08:00.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6137" CreationDate="2013-05-17T15:26:56.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like MyAMSOIL Garage it is basic but it is free. You can set up email reminders for most services in that and it will show you all the amsoil products available for your vehicle aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amsoil.com/whymygarage.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amsoil.com/whymygarage.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T15:26:56.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-17T16:39:41.957" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a coolant leak that turned out to be a bad gasket. Coolant was leaking into the motor. I had the gasket replaced, and was told to change the oil after a few hundred miles. When I did, it turned out that there was a lot of oil in the coolant. Shouldn't the mechanic who changed the gasket noticed this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3173" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T17:33:08.253" Title="Oil in coolant after gasket work 1995 Chevrolet Lumina" Tags="|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6141" CreationDate="2013-05-17T17:33:08.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If coolant is getting into the engine, then oil will be getting into the coolant.  It's a 2-way street there.  I'm really surprised he didn't mention it, since it's expected.  However, normally after doing a gasket repair of that type they just automatically change your coolant and oil on the spot since it's contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T17:33:08.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-17T19:18:22.607" Score="2" ViewCount="12482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Elantra 2002 with 84K miles and would like to change the power steering fluid using a turkey baster. (1) I was wondering how much power steering fluid I need for my car? the user manual does not say anything about it. (2) The manual says I need the PSF-3 type for my car. PSF-3 is not found any where. So, I went to O'Reily Auto parts and bought the power steering fluid made by O'Reily. Is it good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T13:55:35.453" Title="Changing Hyundai Elantra power steering fluid" Tags="|power-steering|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6143" CreationDate="2013-05-18T04:16:16.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is that all the manual says? I believe you can use Dexron ATF, which is reddish in color. I would verify though, as PSF-3 is no longer made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T04:16:16.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14680" CreationDate="2013-05-18T15:56:26.033" Score="1" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 95' BMW E38 recently broke down its audio system. I can't hear anything from radio or CD set. It is difficult to find the cause. I even tried connecting only amplifier and radio module (no luck). Things I have eliminated already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speakers are ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuse in radio tuner located in the trunk is ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other fuses are ok too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio module is ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has 4:3 TV and cassette slot in the front panel. Tuner, amplifier, CD changer, GPS, TV module and GPS module are located in the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastEditorUserId="3171" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T13:17:57.720" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T23:25:34.917" Title="No sound from audio set in BMW7 (E38)" Tags="|bmw|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2013-05-18T16:05:17.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what is your location but if Mercedes cars are popular in your area consider a Mercedes built between 1987-1995 (W124 model). They are very easy to repair and tend not to break that much. I own one since 2009 and apart usual servicing (oil, filters, battery) I had very few things to repair. Also rear wheel drive makes some repairs simplier (not to mention the fun of riding a RWD vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they are cheap (in Poland good ones cost around 1500$) it's rather easy to find a donor car to swap engines, interior and even change from manual to automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastEditorUserId="3171" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T10:53:37.770" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T10:53:37.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6150" CreationDate="2013-05-18T19:30:01.257" Score="4" ViewCount="9560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't driven my car in about a week, and when I went to try and start it today, it would not start. It has enough battery to play the radio and whatnot, so I'm not sure if it's a battery related issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key to start the car, the check engine light flashes as it's being turned, and the engine produces a sound similar to a machine gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incase my description isn't good enough, &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/zhafo7WoaAw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's a video&lt;/a&gt; of what happens when I attempt to start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3176" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:14:34.783" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T19:59:08.163" Title="2005 Chevy Cobalt won't start, sounds like a machine gun" Tags="|battery|starting|chevrolet|cobalt|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6148" CreationDate="2013-05-18T20:06:39.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is battery dead, or a poor connection at the battery. What happens to the dome light while you are trying to crank it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T20:06:39.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6148" CreationDate="2013-05-19T18:15:40.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely just insufficient current to run the starter motor. What happens (causing the flashing/clicking) is that when you turn the key, the starter relay/solenoid switches on, and the starter motor pulls all the available current, dropping the battery voltage extremely low. It can no longer power the relay, so the relay springs back and the load (starter motor) is removed from the battery, voltage returns to normal, and the whole cycle starts over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the root cause, it could just be a bad battery, or an accessory left on that drained your battery, or a weak/dead alternator that's not sufficiently recharging your battery when you drive the vehicle. But to get it started, a jump start or battery charger should suffice. Then you can begin tracking down the cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T18:15:40.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6156" CreationDate="2013-05-19T19:15:16.963" Score="1" ViewCount="19114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so yesterday I stopped at a traffic light on my way home from uni. When the traffic light turned green again, and I was to pull away I could not get the gear into first no matter how much I tried. After 2-3 mins I gave up and set off in 2nd gear, which I did for the most of the way home trying not to hold still with the car and thus avoiding to have to use 1st gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you reckon the issue could be? I have tried for one hour it's simply STUCK, whether you hold the clutch down or not or whether the car is on or off, it doesn't make a difference, it won't go into first gear physically, it's like it's blocked or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, anyone got a clue how much this would cost me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, since i've had to start off in 2nd gear , I try to accelerate more and slowly let go of the clutch and it seems like it's not struggling too much. But I'm sensing it's not good for the car. I've done this about 6 times now. Will have it checked tomorrow but after I make an additional 2 drives. Could this potentially cause worse damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: VW Polo 1.2E (2008) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3179" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T10:45:24.857" Title="VW Polo 2008 won't go into first gear" Tags="|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6157" CreationDate="2013-05-20T08:06:31.443" Score="5" ViewCount="13471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an old Daihatsu Charade 1993. Just 2 days ago, I heard a bubbling sound from the coolant when I turned off the machine. I didn't really care much until yesterday when the car got hot abnormally (3/4 of the gauge, usually 1/4) while idling, though the heat did lessen when the car moving, but it does imply the car has a trouble. Looking back, I guess it has something to do with the bubbling noise I had heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I checked the coolant container I saw the liquid is still at just below max level which is fine, no leaking on the ground as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove again this morning, the car didn't get hot and I didn't hear the bubbling anymore, so I thought there wasn't any severe problem (I might be too optimistic). However, that symptom came back again just now when I drove for around 10 minutes. This time I noticed the coolant level got even higher, I still don't have any idea why, but surely it wouldn't be the head gasket thingy since I saw no leaking at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as I did some research, there is a tendency saying this is a problem with the radiator cap being melt down or not being pressurized enough, but I'm not sure if it exactly is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it'd be better to ask on here before bringing my car to the mechanic so I know the scope of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help if you know, any guesses would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3182" LastEditorUserId="3182" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T14:38:17.037" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T14:38:17.037" Title="Bubbling sound from coolant and increase coolant liquid level" Tags="|coolant|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6155" CreationDate="2013-05-20T10:58:31.740" Score="10" ViewCount="163992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the difference is between the different model numbers in the BMW 3-series. Also, what is the difference between the E30, E36 and E46?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T12:14:30.767" Title="What is the difference between BMW 318i, 320i, 325i etc?" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6154" CreationDate="2013-05-20T11:12:20.217" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model number differentiates the power (and usually size of the engine) of the car. You can often expect that car with a larger model number will have better optional equipment (it is valid for BMW 7 series models, perhaps series 3 and 5 have the same tendency). Models with bigger engines usually have different (stronger) suspension and stronger brakes. They often have different transmission and a larger battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Letter &quot;i&quot; indicates the car is fueled with gasoline, letter &quot;d&quot; indicates it should be fuelled with diesel. Additional letter &quot;L&quot; informs that this model is longer than regular ones (usually series 7 have a &quot;long&quot; attribute). Letter &quot;M&quot; indicates you are dealing with model equipped with &quot;M&quot; packet (special sport engine, different wheels, different brakes, more power, different interior equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E30, E36, E46 are the distinctions of generations of a model in a given series (in this case series 3).&#xA;E30 models were sold between 1982 and 1994. Their successor, model E36 was sold from 1990 to 2000, etc. It is as same as with Ford Mustang. One brand, many models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastEditorUserId="3171" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T12:41:18.557" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T12:41:18.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2013-05-20T12:29:39.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have any problems with 3rd or 5th? (or reverse, if it's next to first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual reason for a FWD car not going into a particular gear is a problem with the linkage between the gearstick and the gearbox, which is usually a series of metal rods with ball-joints between them. There are usually two sets, one connected to the fore-and-aft movement of the gearstick, and one side-to-side. If either set is worn, loose, bent or caught on something it could prevent it from working properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't the linkage, then it's almost certianly something inside the 'box, which will probably mean replacing the entire box - it's rarely cost-effective to try and repair them. You can often get hold of second-hand gearboxes to reduce the cost. If you do have to remove the box, get the clutch changed at the same time, as that'll be a lot cheaper than having to change the clutch in a year or so's time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling away in second won't damage the car, but will wear the clutch out slightly quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T12:29:39.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6153" CreationDate="2013-05-20T13:51:25.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you have a leaking head gasket, you don't have to see the coolant leak because it can leak into the combustion chamber and exit your vehicle in the form of vapor from the tail pipe. It can also leak into the oil so make sure to check the oil for contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be as simple as a bad radiator cap, you can test them with specialized equipment but they are so cheap I'd just replace it and see if the problem goes away. The job of the radiator cap is to allow the coolant system to pressurize to raise the boiling point. If the cap doesn't' allow the system to pressurize or reduces the amount of pressurization it can allow the coolant to boil and could be the bubbles you are seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an easy way to check the head gasket. They make a combustion gas leak detector that detects CO2 in the coolant indicating a leaking head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XPUir.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_combustion-leak-tester-uview_22981757-p?searchTerm=combustion%20leak%20tester&amp;amp;zoneAssigned=1#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uview Combustion Leak Tester&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_SIwHMLmkM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video of how it works&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T17:42:47.537" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T17:42:47.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2013-05-21T05:42:01.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try giving one of these pin's a try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0000, 9999, 1234, 2345, 3456, 4567, 5678, 6789, 7890&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively have you tried another phone, or a laptop with bluetooth and the appropriate software? Or even another car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2268" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T05:42:01.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6112" CreationDate="2013-05-21T05:52:42.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission flush usually involves some kind of a cleaner going into the transmission to dissolve varnish and to dislodge the buildup of particles. As the transmission works, the gears touch one another and wear small particles away and those collect in the crevices and nooks in the housing and pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas if you were to get a fluid change, this means the old fluid is removed and new fluid is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be two different types of fluid changes: One is where the bottom of the transmission is opened, the fluid is drained out, and the filter is replaced. The second type is when a machine is connected to the &quot;cooler lines&quot; (explained in more detail below) and All the old fluid is exchanged for the new fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some transmissions may have a small radiator that is located near the engine coolant radiator. The fluid from the transmission circulates through lines and goes from the transmission to the radiator and then back to the transmission; it helps to cool the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bottom of the transmission is opened and drained, there is still a lot of fluid in the inner passages and torque converter of the transmission- so not all of the fluid is changed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a flush is performed, the old fluid is removed from the &quot;cooler lines&quot; and the new fluid is added through them, so all of the old fluid is taken out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Line&lt;/strong&gt;: I wouldn't flush the car due the seals breaking, other things going wrong, etc that would end up costing you more money. BUT ALSO: Like Nick said, if you've already flushed half of it, might as well flush the rest since you're halfway there :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2268" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T05:52:42.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T06:33:33.400" Score="1" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to lift my Jeep wrangler and I would really like to use fox racing shocks which are for 4 inch lift kits, but I really don't need a 4 inch lift and they cost a whole lot.  Would it work to use the 4 inch shocks with a 2.5 inch lift kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T08:20:50.513" Title="Can I use shocks for a 4 inch lift with a 2.5 inch lift?" Tags="|lift-kit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6160" CreationDate="2013-05-21T12:07:59.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with the exact application, but in general it's a bad idea putting longer shocks into lower vehicles.  That's assuming that the left kits don't actually move the mounting points too and retain the same length/travel requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T12:07:59.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6163" CreationDate="2013-05-21T12:53:11.220" Score="5" ViewCount="9776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working to rejuvenate a 93 Honda FourTrax 300 4x4, that's been stored in a garage under piles of junk for the past 15 years.  I've got it running, and have turned my attention to the torn left front outboard CV boot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a replacement boot, but to install it I have to remove the front axle (which is something I've never done).  What do I have to do to remove the axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMApQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1enz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T23:58:31.313" Title="How do I remove the front axle of a 93 Honda FourTrax 300?" Tags="|honda|axle|cv-boot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6162" CreationDate="2013-05-21T13:36:45.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to specifics for your ATV, but the basic process for removing an axle is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take off the nut holding the axle in the wheel hub. I do this with a large socket wrench/breaker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm (see the bottom middle of your second photo). This can be difficult, and lots of the methods people suggest will destroy the ball joint. Instead, try this method: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJR77aN-MDk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJR77aN-MDk&lt;/a&gt;. You might need to vary the shape of the tool you insert to work with your vehicle, but the concept should work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lift the hub to free it from the lower control arm, then slide the end of the axle back through it (a hammer can help) and swing the hub out to the side to get it out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the other end of the axle from the transaxle/differential. On my vehicle, this is accomplished by prying behind it with a screwdriver. Look closely at what you're doing and be careful not to jam anything in where it could damage something.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation is generally the reverse of removal, but there are a few caveats. You might need some force to get the new axle to snap in, but you need to make sure you don't &lt;em&gt;pull&lt;/em&gt; on it or you could separate the CV joints. And when you reattach the ball joint, make sure to use a good cotter pin. I once had one fall out or break off and I lost the castle nut while driving...wasn't fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T13:36:45.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T19:52:55.360" Score="9" ViewCount="62059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it bad for the car to start it up in the morning, spend 10 seconds driving it out of the garage, then shut it off while I go close the garage door and then a few seconds later get in and start it up again and drive to work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know hybrids and some conventional cars start/stop the engine frequently when engine power isn't needed (but I'm not sure if they turn off a cold, just-started engine), but my conventionally powered 5 yer old car was probably not designed for frequent restarts. I've read that cold starts cause the most wear on the engine and I'm doing 2 cold starts in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do the same thing when I come home - drive up to the garage door, turn off the car to go open the door and then restart. But at least then, the engine is warm so I think it's not as hard on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I likely to see any shorter lifetime of the engine, starter or other components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3038" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T18:03:37.620" Title="Bad to run the car for a short duration, turn it off, and start up again?" Tags="|cold-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2013-05-21T21:49:55.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, cold starts are hard on engines, this is very common advice. Restarting the engine when you get home should be less of a concern though since the engine is already warmed up. If all you're doing is getting out of the car to close your garage, just leave the engine running, you're not saving yourself any gas by starting it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only will doing this shorten the life of your engine and use up more gasoline, the wear and tear you cause your starter will double if you're using it twice as often. You're probably also shortening the life of your battery by draining it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T22:01:05.567" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T22:01:05.567" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-22T00:26:15.597" Score="5" ViewCount="18691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a brand new bike and have had it for about 2 months. Later this week I noticed that after about 5 mins of riding the Fuel Injection light comes back on. I stop the bike, turn the ignition off and turn it back on letting the fuel rails charge again and it seems to be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a little decrease in power when the light is on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the fuel rail charges in makes a kind of gurgling noise rather then an electric purr with other bikes I've ridden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the fuel pump acting up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: bike is a 2012 Kawasaki W800 and I run it on 95 octane premium. Bike has been successfully broken in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T18:33:58.133" Title="Motorcycle: Fuel Injection light comes on after 5 mins of riding" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|kawasaki|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2013-05-22T11:56:29.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart @hillsons answer, starting the engine frequently consumes a lot of electricity from your battery. The battery wears down much faster when it's often discharged and recharged again. I heard short battery life is a common issue in cars with automatic start/stop fuel saving mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T11:56:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6174" CreationDate="2013-05-22T14:21:23.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '03 Corolla with about 87k miles on it. I just bought it a while ago and everything on it seems to run perfect. Recently I've been a bit conscious of how I drive and accelerate and noticed that the gas pedal is a bit stiff (slightly). I decided to see if its just my shoes and took them off while driving. Surprisingly it felt a lot easier to accelerate but still there is a slight pushback. Is it me or do I have to check this and if I do how much would this cost me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T12:18:05.547" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T12:23:49.947" Title="Stiff Gas Pedal 03 Corolla" Tags="|toyota|corolla|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2013-05-22T15:30:02.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Hillsons said, cold starts are hard. So are warm starts, but to a lesser degree. The engine has no oil pressure when off, and starting it again causes very slight but very bad metal on metal contact. When warm this is much less contact than when cold, as the oil is usually primed and circulated. When cold the oil settles a bit and moves away from bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really interested, you can get a &quot;Turbo timer&quot;. It keeps the car running when the key is removed. They are tied to the parking brake or other systems so that if the car moves at all the engine shuts off. It would be perfect in your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &quot;meant&quot; for turbo cars to allow the car to keep running for a set period of time after you walk away and lock the car, so that the turbo can cool off after a hard run. They are pretty much superfluous even with their main intention, but for you it would work well if you are willing to plop down the cash. You'd also have to see if any are available for your vehicle, or if any universal one would even work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:30:02.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6183" CreationDate="2013-05-23T04:41:37.833" Score="3" ViewCount="3170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Elantra 2002 and changed its power steering fluid with a turkey baster. Four days after changing the power steering fluid and running 1000 miles I noticed that the power steering fluid is leaking. I filled it up up to Max level when I changed it, but after four days it is leveled at Min. So apparently, it is leaking. It was not leaking previously, but now after changing the power steering fluid, it is leaking. Is it normal? What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T19:10:36.390" Title="Power steering fluid started to leak after changing it" Tags="|power-steering|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2013-05-23T07:49:14.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to do a Google search for water vs. antifreeze, winter or summer, you will find no support for running water for anything other than pressure tests. Absolutely do not use regular water for an extended period. It will cause more problems. Antifreeze helps keep corrosion away and does aid in cooling in warm weather, better than straight water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3191" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T12:16:43.607" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T12:16:43.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5975" CreationDate="2013-05-23T08:22:14.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if you have the expertise to rebuilt the entire winding and replace worn out bushes, then yes, it can be termed as a DIY project. However many people are not well versed with electrical motor winding and you may need an experts help. Before you do that, you may refer to automotix.net/autorepair/diy/ which has many DIY technique on repairing and serving motors and engines of several models. This should help in making your DIY project successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3192" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T08:22:14.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6168" CreationDate="2013-05-23T12:23:49.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much unless it gets worse. Every car's throttle response is different, I've had some that have been really light and others not (clutches are often worse...). I don't know if the corolla uses a cable or an electronic throttle, but if it's the former you could try disconnecting the engine end of the cable and making sure it slides freely - If it doesn't, you can lubricate the cable to free it off (drip a light machine oil onto the inner cable and slide the cable up and down its full range of motion a few times to work the oil down it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving without shoes can be easier, you have a lot more feeling through the sole of your foot than through a shoe, particularly if you have stiff shoes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T12:23:49.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-23T15:13:29.917" Score="4" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (2005 Nissan Sentra) had a problem for a while: gas spills out when pumping. I was lazy and did nothing about it. After a month or so, the car started to fail. At first it was only hiccups, but now the car won't go faster then 5 m/hr and pressing the gas pedal has almost no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a forum that said that the Sentra had a known problem with the vent control valve and that it was easy to repair. I removed the part and it was indeed broken. I replaced it, but pressing the gas pedal still has no effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the car is in &quot;fail safe&quot; mode and that restarting the ECU could resolve the problem? If so, is it possible to reset the ECU without a scanner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3194" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T23:42:11.413" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T11:12:47.987" Title="2005 Nissan Sentra - Pressing gas pedal has no effect - vent control valve" Tags="|nissan|electronic-control-module|sentra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6092" CreationDate="2013-05-23T19:34:50.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't any kind of application you can apply to the hose to make it easier to take off at a later time. The reasoning is it would be too easy for the hose to slip off during normal operation. And by the time you replace the fuel filter again it wouldn't even be there anymore as it's not a regular maintenance object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just doing what you did (Twisting the hose back and forth) is the best thing to do to release a stuck hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T19:34:50.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6178" CreationDate="2013-05-23T22:19:32.817" Score="6" ViewCount="65602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the option to buy a car that has been in an accident. There are alternatives, but within my budget the alternatives are usually older/have higher mileage. The seller is a local mechanic who did the restoration work and also showed pictures of the car before restoration. The damage was done to one of the front headlights and to the surrounding bits. The mechanic has convinced me that no damage was done to the internal carrying structure. He fixed the lights and did some paintwork restoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; I read that people advice not to buy cars after the accident. This is my first car, so my experience is nonexistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; What are the cons against buying a car after the accident?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;About the car: Opel Astra 2007 1.4 Petrol Manual Hatchback priced £2200, 1 prev owner, chain, 66K miles, 1 year MOT, 6 month tax&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T23:11:37.870" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T20:08:32.840" Title="What are the pitfalls of buying a used car after an accident?" Tags="|used|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2013-05-23T23:10:08.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, a car that has been in an accident should be less expensive, that's always a plus if you're on a budget. Your question might be a little too broad though, there's obviously a whole range of damage that could be caused by different accidents, and each situation is unique. An accident may have just broken some lights, or there could be hidden damage to the frame that you can't even detect with the naked eye, even if it was just a fender bender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're buying a used car, whether known to be in an accident or not, it's always recommended you have it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/inspect-that-used-car-before-buying.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inspected first&lt;/a&gt;. Otherwise, there's no telling what could be wrong with it. Not having it inspected and not knowing what could be wrong is a huge risk when buying a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T23:10:08.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-24T00:20:43.173" Score="10" ViewCount="16721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/autopia/2013/05/volkswagen-xl1-driven/?viewall=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the new supercar from VW&lt;/a&gt;, I distinctly noticed when the author specifically mentioned shifting to &quot;drive&quot;. I know the car in article is an automatic, but it got me thinking. Is it possible to have a manual car with an electric motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3197" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:44:04.513" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T22:51:14.957" Title="Is it possible to have a manual transmission electric car?" Tags="|manual-transmission|electric-vehicle|theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2013-05-24T02:03:52.327" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it's possible, but in an ideal electric car, you don't even need a transmission with multiple gears. The electric motor has a much greater range of torque/speed output at its disposal than an internal combustion engine does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T02:03:52.327" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-24T05:59:12.467" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car window just fell down while I was driving. I drive a 2002 Ford Explorer. I dont care if I can ever get it to automatically roll up and down again, but how can I get it to stay up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3199" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:04:17.697" Title="How can I keep a car window up?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2013-05-24T06:04:17.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real way to secure it is to open the door panel, look at the rails that allow it to move up and down, and secured it at the point where it is properly stored in the up position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:04:17.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6171" CreationDate="2013-05-24T06:14:32.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There use to be a say that you never changed you transmission fluid from whatever to whatever, due to detergents eating up any little bit of soil that might have been holding a leak back. Assuming you used the same fluid type, and the other fluid was filthy enough to have a positive viscosity gain, the new fluid might have found the weakest link. Look for the hose with dirt on it, and trace it. Also, look at you steering rack, as this might be the source of the leak. If available, top the fluid off, and have someone turn the wheel from maximum left turn to max right. Observe all the components, and look for your culprit. Another thing to do is check your hoses for a breach, and if you find one, you might as well replace all hoses to avoid the weakest link failing next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:14:32.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6137" CreationDate="2013-05-24T20:26:05.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about web-based, but I have been very happy with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zonewalker.com/acar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;aCar&quot;&gt;aCar&lt;/a&gt; app for Android. Multiple vehicles, fill-up tracking, service records and alerts, parts records (so you don't have to look up which oil filter you use every time you need one), and some decent mileage and cost statistics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3201" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T20:26:05.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-24T21:29:34.980" Score="1" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 geo metro. Car runs good and has normal power. When car is idling it runs fine with no overheating or coolant being pushed out of the overflow. I was told to replace the water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap. I have replaced them and the problem still occurs. I do have a 50/50 mix coolant and no leaks at all. recently I have performed a compression test and found my middle cyl in 25 PSI low witch could be a blown head gasket allowing exhaust to be pushed into the radiator. I ordered a product called steel seal and followed their directions with no success. I called them back and they have sent me a second bottle to run with the spark plug out of the engine. i have ran the second bottle in my coolant and have not rechecked my compression to see if its still low. I did find my belt slipping and replaced it with no luck. the temp gauge on the dash does not show overheating but I can tell the engine does get hot only if I am driving it. if its idling it runs great with no issues. Just wondering what else could be my issue. coolant is flowing but I think I may have to replace my head gasket witch on this car does not seem to be a huge issue. A couple more things that I will be trying is making sure my radiator fins aren't bent over and restricting anything and make sure my cooling fan is spinning the right way. other then that HELP!!!!! HAHA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3202" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:18:44.653" Title="95 geo metro 1.0L pushing coolant out of overflow" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|radiator|water-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2013-05-25T15:10:16.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is almost surely a blown head gasket. A compression test might not even show it, especially if the leak only happens under the pressure of combustion (which is much higher than just the compression from the cylinder moving). You could get a block check kit (which works by pulling fumes from the radiator opening through pH test fluid to determine if there are combustion gasses in the coolant), but I would pretty much just assume this is a head gasket failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, HG replacement is usually pretty easy on small 4-cylinder inline engines. The hardest part of doing it on my Civic was getting off the exhaust manifold. I've never worked with a Metro but I'd expect it's similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T15:10:16.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-25T21:38:43.553" Score="3" ViewCount="4626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1987 kawasaki ninja.  I've had it for two years and it ran good until this year.  When I started it this week, gas started to flow back into air filter box.  Has anyone ever encountered this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3203" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:35:51.697" Title="What can cause gas to blow back into air filter in a motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-26T19:55:00.573" Score="1" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is fully charged.  The lights come on and there isn't a clicking noise.  I had the ignition switch replaced and it still will not start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3207" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:10:04.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:10:04.450" Title="PT Cruiser will not start" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2013-05-26T21:02:45.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Offhand, sounds like something is bad in the system for delivering power to the starter motor. It could be a blown fuse, damage to the wiring, or a bad starter relay/solenoid. If you don't hear &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; click when you try to start, it's probably not the starter motor itself that's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T21:02:45.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2013-05-27T00:49:45.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the responce. I did run the steel seal with the 1 spark plugged removed for 1 hour. not only did it bring the compression back to that cyl but im not getting exhaust gasses in my coolant anymore. I recommend steel seal for any blow headgasket issues. not only do they stand behind their product IT WORKS!!!. also found the person i bought the car from put the cooling fan on a toggle switch and hooked it up backwards so it was pushing air forward witch was causing it to boil and push out the overflow. i wired it back so it pulled the air through the radiator tword the engine and it does not boil anymore. WOOOOHOOOOO. I hope this thread helps others out. GOOD LUCK!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3209" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T00:49:45.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2013-05-27T13:09:42.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the float valve in one of the carburetors sticks it can force fuel up into the throttle body. Sometimes tapping on the side of the float bowl(s) will un-stick it. If the carbs have never been cleaned it may be worth doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T13:09:42.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-27T18:10:11.707" Score="-1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I stop the car (by hitting the brake pedal), the engine all of a sudden stops while on drive. Here are the lights I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDi1n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do they mean? Is it a battery problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3211" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T16:51:09.480" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T16:51:09.480" Title="What do these lights mean?" Tags="|engine|lights|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2013-05-27T22:46:16.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean the engine shuts off, when you come to a stop, it's likely a Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid keeping the Torque Converter Clutch engaged stalling the engine when you come to a stop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T22:46:16.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6198" CreationDate="2013-05-28T05:59:15.777" Score="2" ViewCount="2849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of fitting an audio system for my hatchback.&#xA;I'm a little bit confused over fixing the speakers.&#xA;I have three options to fit the speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit them on an MDF tray above boot. [6x9 oval speakers]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix them in the boot lid/door. [6x9 oval speakers]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix them in the doors [6 &quot; standard speakers]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine told that fixing on the boot lid may damage the hydrolidc/shock system of the boot lid. Using MDF tray will result losing some space. I think i should prefer fixing them in the doors as there are default provisions(by the car manufacturer) for speakers in the door(and saves a lot of space). But my question is do speakers fixed in the door show short life span (as they are more open to moisture coming in through rubber beadings, shocks from closing the door etc.). And what about the quality of music output.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's helpful if anyone can suggest advantages and disadvantages of the above three methods and (any) other methods.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2054" LastEditorUserId="2054" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T10:15:23.350" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T10:15:23.350" Title="Fitting speakers on the door of a hatchback" Tags="|audio|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2013-05-28T06:25:57.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hatchback or not - it does not makes a lot of difference. I would go for doors and install speakers there. After all car manufacturer specifically designed so. When choosing the speakers make sure they fit depth-wise, some might have too big magnets on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having speakers in my doors for 16 years now - they work perfectly, no corrosion whatsoever. The only quirk are the wires - you need to make sure they don't obstruct windows going up/down. (I had windows and locks replaced a few times and each time I assembled the door I discovered that wires were in a way of a window, had to redo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speakers in the boot are usually complementary to the speakers in the front, they add more power and surround sound effect (when properly balanced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Sound quality highly depends on speakers and amp. There are multi-band speaker models that employ up to 3 speakers in one (tremble speakers installed in front of bass). They generally sound better than single-band speakers. Some models go in pairs, each side has a main 6&quot; speaker and a small 1&quot; twitter that is installed separately (under the side mirror or someplace else). Spend some time in a shop listening and comparing speakers to each other. Make sure your amp has enough power for the speakers and your wires are thick enough to carry it. Professional audio specialist might give you a better advice (sound dampening, amp choice, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T06:35:17.120" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T06:35:17.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2013-05-28T09:05:52.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Door speakers should not suffer problems such as you describe. Mounting them is actually very straightforward, and if the doors already have space for speakers, I would definitely use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fitted speakers in the parcel shelf in cars before, and it does provide some more depth and clarity to the sound, as the sound bounces off the rear windscreen and forwards at head height, but you are right, it can cause problems with hydraulic raisers if the shelf rises with the door, although these are easily fixed by adjusting or replacing the hydraulic raisers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred option would always be speakers in dash, front doors, rear doors and a sub in the boot if required, then balance phase and power at the amp (if you have those options) - if you are going for high quality sound you do need to ensure all speakers are correctly timed and in phase, but to do it you will need tools to measure the delay and phase on each speaker and an amplifier that can alter these as required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T09:05:52.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2013-05-28T14:28:33.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One indicator in this case could be the airbags. In a frontal accident they deploy if the impact was strong enough. So I'd consider the car if the airbags are still the originals. Too big of a chance of structural damage if the airbags deployed and were replaced. Better to steer clear…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T14:28:33.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6197" CreationDate="2013-05-28T15:04:38.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the best sound quality you want your speakers as high and as far forward as possible. This will result in the best imaging and staging possible. Which means that it sounds like a band is on stage infront of you and you can individually pick out where each instrument is coming from vocal, bass, drums, rhythm, lead, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower the frequency the less important it is for the speaker to be higher and forward this is because we start to feel the noise through our bodies than hearing through the ear canal. This is why often you will see a 6.5&quot; midbass/midrange in the lower door or kickpanel then a tweeter higher in the door. This is not ideal because it can cause a split between the instruments. The lower frequencies of vocals guitar will sound low in the stage but the higher vocals and guitar solo etc will sound bright and high in the stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you don't want your tweeter to be more than a foot away from your midrange driver. Coaxial speakers are speakers which have a tweeter mounted inline with the midrange woofer so they can have very good imaging and are easy to install. This is probably your best option. If you want to go very high end you might look into doing a three-way component setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A three-way component setup consists of a tweeter (usually 1&quot;) a 3&quot; midrange and midbass (usually 6.5&quot;). This allows you to fit the tweeter and midrange high and forward in the vehicles A-pillar or dash then run the midbass lower in the door or kick panel resulting in a very flat and accurate response and great imaging. The disadvantages being that it is the most difficult to install and the most expensive way to go aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said I would recommend you start by getting a good set of coaxial speakers and mount them in the factory door location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:04:38.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2013-05-28T15:22:00.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just FYI, I had a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (same basic engine and transmission I think, GM 3800 Series II engine) that the fuel pump relay went bad on. When you turned the key, you could here the pump power on and pressurize. The car would start and idle, but as soon as you put it in drive or pressed the gas, the engine would die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told that many of the vehicles from Buick and Pontiac that used the 3800 Series II engines also used identical fuel pumps and relays that were known for this failure mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:22:00.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2013-05-28T15:29:34.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One additional thing to keep in mind is the title. In most states a car that has been totaled by the insurance can be repaired, inspected, and put back on the road. It will have a &quot;Rebuilt&quot; title though. Different insurance companies have different policies on rebuilt vehicles. In many states you cannot purchase full coverage and can only get the minimum necessary to operate the vehicle on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positives are that you can get something cheaply. The negative is that you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to know what to look at and for. For a first time buyer, if they say it's got a rebuilt title, walk away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hillsons advice is probably the best first time buyer advice. Never hesitate to ask to have it inspected by &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; mechanic. If nothing else, the reaction to the question can be very telling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuilt or Salvage titles are probably going to be different outside of the US, FYI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:29:34.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4978" CreationDate="2013-05-28T16:31:06.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check the relay under the dash for the parking/running lights, I just fixed one in my shop 10 mins ago that needed the relay and new bulbs (bad bulb on one side caused all brake/run lights to go out if the running lights were on when applying the brakes) also check the sockets and contacts as well &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T16:31:06.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6207" CreationDate="2013-05-28T20:01:48.637" Score="41" ViewCount="583797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my rear brake pads.  A mechanic suggested I also replace my rotors because they are rusted around the edges.  The rotors are in fact quite rusted, however, there is no rust on the actual surface that touches the pads.  Running my fingers over the surface of the rotors, there does not appear to be any buildup of brake pad deposits and the surface is relatively smooth.  There is however one small circular scratch around one of the rotors.  While the pads are ready to be replaced, they are still within standard tolerances, so it's not like there is metal-on-metal going on.  The mechanic warned that replacing the pads without replacing the rotors at the same time would be a waste because the rusted rotors will just eat up the new pads.  I find that hard to believe given that the rust is just on the extreme edges of the rotors, which are parts that do not appear to touch the pads.  The brakes do not appear to make any abnormal noises at all.  Therefore, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3340/how-do-i-know-if-i-need-new-brakes&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, it doesn't seem like the rotors need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is rust on the parts of the rotors that do not touch the pads enough to require replacement?&lt;/strong&gt;  Is there a way I can tell on my own if they need replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3216" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T07:31:16.007" Title="When do brake rotors really need to be replaced?" Tags="|brakes|rust|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:13:07.287" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not required that you replace your brake rotors at the same time you replace your brake pads, but there are many reasons why it's highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primarily, it's not the rust you should worry about, there most likely always going to be some rust around the edges, that's not at all out of the ordinary. The main problem is that your rotors are most likely grooved, and putting fresh pads on grooved rotors is going to wear the pads faster. Using those grooved brake rotors could also cause your wheels to wobble once you add new brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those instances where it makes more sense to spend a little more money to eliminate the possibility of a huge headache down the road. It's up to you whether you want to gamble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:13:07.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2013-05-29T02:47:22.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I bought my first car (well, first that was actually mine) shortly after college for $100 with accident damage. Started with no knowledge or experience repairing cars. Took me a few months to get it in working shape, but it served me well for 4 years, and I learned &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; from it. However, it had damage to the frame that kept me from ever getting the alignment perfect, and so it burned through tires. This is something you might want to have checked by a professional on any vehicle that's had accident damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the main thing I have to add on top of what others have said is that, if you can't afford to spend a lot of money and want to buy a car with potential problems as a way to save money, you might want to go the way I did and take &quot;accident damage&quot; over &quot;engine problems&quot;. Even if you have to do some work on it later yourself, replacing components that might have been damaged in an accident is a lot easier for a beginner than doing a head gasket job or full engine or transmission rebuild (those issues being the other obvious ways you could get a dirt-cheap vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T02:47:22.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2013-05-29T06:59:36.920" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rotors are thick enough and there are no defects in pads area (big grooves, buldgy edges) I would not worry at all. There's no need to replace rotors each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are some defects that can be removed and the rotors are thick enough - consider resurfacing the rotors, that might be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, given that the only downside is faster pads wear I would not bother as pads are generally quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I my case set of pads and labor to replace them is almost twice cheaper than replacing rotors. So I would went for another round replacing only pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T06:59:36.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T13:05:36.410" Score="2" ViewCount="3853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 GMC Savanna, and I've had this problem twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we have a particularly cold few days, then a warm humid front moves through overnight, the engine won't start.  I can see quite a bit of condensation all over the engine block, wiring, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine turns over, the fuel rail is pressurized, and there is a spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time this happened I was in a hurry, and had it towed and had them perform a tuneup (belts, spark plugs, spark plug wires, etc).  They reported no problems, and suggested the condensation was sapping the spark, but that the new wires should resolve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it happened again yesterday morning. I waited a day, and this morning it starts fine - and the engine is dry on the outside, no signs of the condensation that were there yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs have a satisfying 'pop' suggesting they seal against the spark plugs when removed, but there's no dielectric grease or anything inside them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what I can do to eliminate this problem once and for all, and what else I should check for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:13:36.350" Title="Engine condensation causing no-start condition" Tags="|starting|sparkplugs|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6210" CreationDate="2013-05-29T15:44:37.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most like a crack in a coil, igniter module, or distributor (probably a coil with a 2000 MY GM vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:44:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6210" CreationDate="2013-05-29T17:13:36.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These vehicles are bad for bad distributor caps. They get carboned tracked and it doesn't take much moisture to cause a no start, but run normally when it's dry. Replace the cap and rotor, check that the vents in the base plate are not clogged and any vent lines (vacuum lines for venting) if equipped are unobstructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:13:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6216" CreationDate="2013-05-30T01:56:29.710" Score="5" ViewCount="6328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope to be replacing the shock absorbers on my 2005 Mazda 3 this weekend. I have purchased the shocks themselves (Monroe P/N 5607), as well as new mounts. The only thing left to get is new bolts....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From watching this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9CFer1JLY0&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, I can tell that it is a 17mm bolt. The question is can I just go out and buy any 17mm bolt that is the same length as the current one, or is there some kind of material requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T13:10:26.310" Title="Can I use just any 17mm bolt?" Tags="|mazda|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6214" CreationDate="2013-05-30T11:21:37.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure why you want to replace the bolts you should be able to reuse the original bolts. If you do decide you want new replacement bolts make sure to get the correct size. Bolt size is determined by the size of the bolt (not the head) and the thread. You will need to get the correct thread pitch, diameter, length, and strength. You could call your local dealer and they may have the bolt or be able to tell you the size if it's a standard bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T13:10:26.310" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T13:10:26.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6214" CreationDate="2013-05-30T11:53:11.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The question is can I just go out and buy any 17mm bolt that is the&#xA;  same length as the current one, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or is there some kind of material&#xA;  requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about the jobs that those bolts are doing: they support the steady state mass of the vehicle and the transient spring loads of the transmission.  That means that those bolts need to be strong enough to handle steady loads as well as sudden impulses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't going to be able to just throw any old bolt in that slot and expect it to hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the bolts under transient loads on the car are grade 8.  Check the bolt that you're removing against &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-sae-grades-d_1426.html&quot;&gt;this handy reference sheet&lt;/a&gt;.  You want to make sure that any replacement bolt is at least as strong as the one that's coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T11:53:11.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:32:52.853" Score="4" ViewCount="1783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our Honda Fit 2012 (bought last October) is getting on average well under 25 MPG, sometimes as low as 22-23 MPG average according to the dashboard display. Neither my wife nor I are aggressive drivers although we do almost exclusively city driving and don't use the car often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there are any obvious things to look for. The only thing I can think of is the few times we've left it idling, although there hasn't been much of that lately since the last time I reset it and the mileage is still at around the 25 MPG mark when everyone else appears to be getting at least 28 MPG even with aggressive driving, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The other day I stepped into the vehicle and saw that its current MPG was 19!! Also after less than 100 miles of travel my gas tank was half full. Pretty sure a full tank should get me more than 200 miles, even in city driving. Something must be going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3222" LastEditorUserId="3222" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T15:11:20.300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:25:18.843" Title="Getting unexpectedly low mileage for Honda Fit 2012" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2013-05-30T16:50:41.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lights coming on is normal for engine off, key on. That is just the car illuminating most/all of the lights to verify the bulbs work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T16:50:41.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:55:48.337" Score="1" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving 2 blocks I knew something was wrong with the engine, and when I stopped and checked under the hood I discovered that 4 of the 8 spark plug leads were there but disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the first time the car was driven after someone had given it a 'tune up'. I always wondered if it could have been dangerous if I hadn't stopped and checked this myself just before I got on the highway? I was never able to ask the person who did the tune-up. Thank goodness I knew a little bit and reconnected the leads before I drove any further.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this &quot;how dangerous would this have been to my vehicle and/or myself&quot; if I had not caught it so quickly?  Thanks very much for your opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3224" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T13:59:45.500" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T13:59:45.500" Title="Any danger if 4 of 8 spark plug leads not connected while driving" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6220" CreationDate="2013-05-30T19:42:55.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4 spark plug were not firing so the fuel pumped in those piston can flow out through the exhaust and in worst could catch fire. since the 4 piston were not firing so the rotation could go out of balance and start shaking you engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T19:42:55.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6220" CreationDate="2013-05-30T22:09:27.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two biggest risks I can think of are fire, destroying the catalytic convertor and possible exploding a muffler. The arcing of the plug wire could ignite the underhood insulation. The extra unburned fuel could ruin the convertor, the fuel could collect in the muffler and ignite rupturing the muffler. All these are worse case scenarios if the distance is a short as you say the damage would be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T22:09:27.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2013-05-31T14:13:44.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, urban driving tends to be worse for economy than agressive driving - my own car will consistently get 4-5 mpg (Imperial Gallons) less over a tankful if I do purely urban driving, and 4-5 mpg more if I do purely motorway driving (most of my driving is a fairly even mix of urban, rural and motorway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try taking it for a fast highway run and see if that improves matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T14:13:44.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5456" CreationDate="2013-05-31T14:32:29.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Holden Commodore is the same as the Opel Omega and Chevy Lumina. Most of them that year used the 4L60E automatic I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emergency brake is off (if you have one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission fluid level - this is an automatic by description so no clutch to check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verify it shifts - when you hit the button for neutral, can you push the car? When in Reverse, will it travel in Reverse at normal speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be out of fluid and then running it even more may have further damaged the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, check the fluid. If low or empty, re-fill and have a transmission shop take a look at it. By 1998 OBDII should have been in effect and they may be able to pull a code history from the transmission control module. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T14:32:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6227" CreationDate="2013-05-31T16:44:24.013" Score="6" ViewCount="4492" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just recently got a Subaru Outback.  It is a manual and has AWD.  The dealer told us if we need it towed, it has to go on a trailer, and can't be towed with wheels down.  I understand that this can cause transmission damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why would this cause transmission damage, when I can pop it into neutral and coast?  What is the difference between coasting and being towed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:08:38.483" Title="Subaru Outback Towing vs Coasting" Tags="|transmission|subaru|towing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6226" CreationDate="2013-05-31T17:18:45.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All wheel drive vehicles connect the front and rear axles via a transfer case or differential. While on a wheel lift tow one set is lifted off the ground and not spinning and the trailing wheels are spinning at road speed. This places a big load and resulting wear on the power transfer unit. Coasting allows all four wheel to spin at road speed but with no engine power applied. I guess you could tow it with an older type of tow rig that used a frame sling lift. The raised wheels could spin freely. Modern vehicles with plastic bumpers wouldn't fair well with this older hoist technology, Which is why wheel lift has become the new standard. It is being replaced by flat/tilt bed rigs due to the increased number of all wheel drive vehicles available.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:18:45.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-01T06:16:13.940" Score="4" ViewCount="27113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Golf 2.0 TDi GT with no ignition lights on the dash. I put the key in the switch and turned but nothing happened. The battery is fully charged, the key fob has a new battery and locks/unlocks the doors and windows but can't start the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fault started after re-fueling, I got into the car and put the key in and nothing happened. The car doors suddenly locked me in so I pressed the fob to unlock the doors, put key back in and car started. 1 hour later it did the same but now won't start at all. The car has been in an independant VW garage for 7 days but he can't find the fault. He phoned VW and they don't know either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got any ideas - I would appreciate any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3226" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T10:44:41.213" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T22:12:08.050" Title="2008 VW Golf - no ignition lights on dash" Tags="|vw|ignition|diesel|golf|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6245" CreationDate="2013-06-01T14:57:18.517" Score="1" ViewCount="4903" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does VW do to improve HP and Torque from their 1.4 TSI engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAXA:&#xA;90 KW @ 5000&#xA;200 NM @ 1500-4000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAVD&#xA;118 KW @ 5800&#xA;240 NM @ 1500-4500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2194" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T10:35:33.797" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T10:15:03.030" Title="VW 1.4 TSI EA113 Variations" Tags="|engine|vw|turbocharger|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6231" CreationDate="2013-06-01T23:45:34.857" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 86 Chevrolet C30 dually truck.  The tires are something I've never seen before.  The brand is &quot;A ? X&quot; (some symbol in middle).  A mechanic said these may be nylon tires  and could be the cause of my rough ride around 70mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these tires and why cant I find them online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fq8JE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two (That reads 7.50 - 16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJwIL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless.  RIM 600G.  10 P.R.E. &#xA;112/116 nylon tread 6 plies sidewall 4 plies &#xA;max load single 2755 pounds at 75 PSI cold &#xA;max load duel 2470 pounds at 75 PSI cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastEditorUserId="588" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T00:44:01.570" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T01:33:25.353" Title="Please Identify these tires and are they ok for truck?" Tags="|tires|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6230" CreationDate="2013-06-02T01:04:25.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tires are made in China and may have been a house brand or low cost replacement no-name tire. The first picture shows a tire that appears to be under inflated or over loaded. I was unable to see in the photos what type of construction the tire has. It should say somewhere on the sidewall 6ply rayon or 8ply steel etc.  Back in the day when nylon or fiberglass belts were common many people complained of flat spots or tread shimmy. It was more pronounced on tires that sat for extended periods or even a short time underinflated. In some cases it improved as the tire warmed up, in other it did not. You also want to make sure that the tires are rated for your truck. One-tons came in variety of gross vehicle weights. I personally wouldn't be doing 70mph on a tire of unknown age and quality. Typically the tires would also have an LT designation for light truck. After a little research they are made by The Shifeng Juxing Tire Co. The good news is they have only been in business since 2003, so they can't be more than 10 years old. They were most likely imported by the container full and wholesaled to independents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T01:33:25.353" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T01:33:25.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2013-06-02T08:14:45.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When this happens it's usually due to the ELM module needing it's firmware reflashed. This involves removing it and reflashing the chip or simply replacing it. You can find more information about this at &lt;a href=&quot;http://ftdichip.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ftdichip.com&lt;/a&gt; they have a lot of DIYs on how to build these modules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This breakage is very common when buying the cheap China built adapters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T08:14:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T00:10:13.837" Score="1" ViewCount="2460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pulling codes for my engine indicating a faulty idle control valve. The vehicle at idle seems to hunt jumping between about 800rpm and 1100rpm. It happens maybe every 20 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I accelerate moderately to about 2800rpm or over, and suddenly let off the throttle I will get a backfire out both banks and exhausts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine is a V8 BMW M62.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so can I clean my ICV or does it require replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T00:19:22.937" Title="Can an Idle Control Valve cause backfiring and can it be cleaned" Tags="|engine|bmw|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6233" CreationDate="2013-06-03T02:05:45.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try just spraying Seafoam through it with the vehicle running - you don't even have to take it off. That usually fixes it. If not, you could try taking it off and cleaning it thoroughly, but if the Seafoam didn't solve your problem I think there's a good chance something is wrong with it beyond just being dirty, so you might end up having to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T02:05:45.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2013-06-03T10:37:50.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differing specs of VW engines are (I believe) mainly done by varying the ECU maps - Which is why a lot of power can be gained from the lower-spec engines by chipping them up to (and beyond) the higher-spec versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T10:37:50.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2152" CreationDate="2013-06-03T16:13:35.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you replace a diesel filter, the air should be removed by using feed pump. If you don't apply the pump until the filter is full, the system will suffer with air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3231" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T11:41:42.360" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T11:41:42.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T17:41:55.043" Score="1" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my car has an uneven roll at very low speeds, almost as if one of the tires is being favored. Is this likely to be an issue with a tire or are there other potential issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T00:47:24.253" Title="What could be causing an uneven roll at low speeds?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:03:38.373" Score="-1" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 ford exp xlt overheating. replaced t-stat and dumped &amp;amp; refilled coolant. Still over heating bad when on the highway at about 65 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3233" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T20:22:17.900" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:37:55.277" Title="Ford Explorer overheating" Tags="|ford|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2013-06-04T00:47:24.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belt shift is a common cause of low speed squirm. To find the offending tire or tires, raise each tire off the ground and rotate slowly by hand. You are looking for a shift in the tread usually a small area covering less than 12 inches. The shift may be less than an inch side to side. It is caused by the steel belts under the tread shifting after the tire was made. It is difficult to prove it is a manufacturing defect as impact with a pothole can cause the same symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T00:47:24.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6239" CreationDate="2013-06-04T01:37:55.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheating problems can be difficult to pinpoint in older vehicles since it may be caused by several parts performing at marginal levels. Do some visuals first. Did you get all the air out of the system after the flush and fill? If it is equipped with a clutch fan, you should feel resistance while spinning the fan by hand (engine off of course) when the engine is warm. Is the fan shroud in place? Check the radiator paying particular attention to how the fins attach to the tubes. All the cooling fins should in direct contact with the tubes. The tubes are the vertical or horizontal lines between the zig-zag rows of fins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:37:55.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T02:14:22.103" Score="1" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost my keys, so I had a locksmith come and make another Key. He took the lock latch off to do something with a computer as well as the door and ignition. Now the trunk latch will not latch and close. He says it is pretty worn out, but it was working properly before. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDsDp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3234" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T09:25:19.047" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T20:10:25.397" Title="Ford Focus 2006 - Trunk latch won't close" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2013-06-04T02:31:01.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you don't really need to replace the rotors unless the thickness is below the specs and damage to them can be seen with the naked eye. Your mechanic just want to make a bit more money. Brake rotors can last up to 100,000 miles on average before they need to be changed.&#xA;This is what I suggest. Google &quot; what is the average lifetime of brake rotors &quot; and you will get a lot of sites with very useful information that will help you make up your mind.&#xA;In your case, you have not provided enough information to get a meaningful answer. It all depends on how long they have been in use, how you drive, how often you change the pads... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3235" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T02:31:01.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T07:12:13.720" Score="0" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the fan out from my engine compartment and am now ready to test it. It consists of two fans, one larger than the other connected I believe in series with two large wires, one red, one brown running to the large fan motor and from there to the smaller motor. Also there are two smaller wires one green one black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small 12V (27A) battery. How do I safely test which component is failing? Don't be afraid to explain like I'm five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's on a 2007 Audi A3 2.0 TDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3236" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T07:12:13.720" Title="Car Radiator Fan may have a Fault, I'm an electrical noob" Tags="|electrical|fan|testing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-06-04T19:13:31.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6229" CreationDate="2013-06-04T10:15:03.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both engines you mentioned have a supercharger and turbo combination. The performance difference is achieved by increasing the boost pressure to the engine. While this might be done only by using different ECU maps for small performance differences, the big performance differences usually require higher capacity parts as well, especially for the turbos, injectors and cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short google search revealed the following for these engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90 to 96 kW variants — two-part plastic intake manifold, turbocharger&#xA;incorporated in exhaust manifold with maximum boost pressure 1.8 bars&#xA;(26.1 psi), water-cooled intercooler integrated into intake manifold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;103 to 125 kW variants — multi-ribbed belt-driven fifth-generation&#xA;Eaton Roots-type positive displacement supercharger operated by a&#xA;magnetic clutch integrated in a module inside the water pump, internal&#xA;step-down ratio on the input end of the synchronisation gear pair, and&#xA;KKK turbocharger with integrated wastegate connected in series,&#xA;administrated by a control flap, 2.5 bars (36.3 psi) pressure at 1,500&#xA;rpm, front-mounted intercooler (FMIC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to forget different fuel specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90 to 103 kW variants — 95 RON ultra-low sulphur unleaded petrol&#xA;(ULSP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110 to 125 kW variants — 98 RON 'Super Unleaded' ultra-low&#xA;sulphur unleaded petrol (ULSP) - 95 RON may be used, but will result&#xA;in lower power output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#1.4_R4_16v_TSI.2FTFSI_90-133kW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#1.4_R4_16v_TSI.2FTFSI_90-133kW&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T10:15:03.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2013-06-04T11:59:24.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure the spark plug wires are tight.  On those cars it's easy to accidently knock one loose (loose enough to be intermittent) while doing an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those cars also seem to eat ignition coils, so that's a likely candidate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs are also possible.  Not very likely, but they're pretty cheap, so are often done first just in case they're the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T11:59:24.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5738" CreationDate="2013-06-04T15:28:28.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First problem's first. A flashing check engine light means that something is wrong that could damage your engine. Others here are correct, it's probably a spark plug or coil pack issue triggering the light. A loose or fouled plug won't ignite the cylinder when cold, but when the engine has warmed up can have just enough spark to ignite and run the cylinder. If you have more than one doing this, then you could cause some damage. This can be cause by several things, but the easiest to check and replace are the spark plug wires and spark plugs. On the newer Grand AM &amp;amp; Prix cars, they use a solid state ignition and instead of a single coil, they use a coil pack. The coil packs &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; don't go bad, but can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to someplace like Autozone that will read the codes from the car computer and print them out for you. The description they print out is usually pretty decent, but allow the person to go into a little more detail, but take it with a grain of salt until you verify it. I would expect to see a code similar to P0301, P0302, etc. The P30x codes are usually misfire codes and the last number should reflect which cylinder is misfiring. You may have several codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to replace your spark plugs, make sure the engine is cool, and do one plug and one wire at a time. Pick one to start with, remove the spark plug wire, then the spark plug, double check your gap on the new plug, and carefully install the new spark plug. You don't want to over tighten it, but you don't want to have it took loose either. Solidly snug is an apt term. Although this may the time to buy a cheaper torque wrench and learn how to set it. The torque value should be specified in the manual. Then match the old spark plug wire up to a new one to find the correct length and install the new wire. Repeat for the other cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are all done, start the car and take notice if it behaves the same way and if the check engine light is still flashing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:28:28.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6258" CreationDate="2013-06-04T15:30:03.923" Score="1" ViewCount="3850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this for a friend, so if you need more details, I'll have to ask him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He brought his bike with him when he moved, and with the elevation change, the idle isn't high enough. How can he adjust it, or what's an easy way to find out how to adjust it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Found this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXAfG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXAfG.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastEditorUserId="3239" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T16:11:21.420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T12:09:21.380" Title="How do you adjust the idle on a 1981 Suzuki GS 650 GL?" Tags="|motorcycle|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T00:39:08.007" Score="5" ViewCount="2808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the fan out from my engine compartment and am now ready to test it. It consists of two fans, one larger than the other connected I believe in series with two large wires, one red, one brown running to the large fan motor and from there to the smaller motor. Also there are two smaller wires one green one black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small 12V (27A) battery. How do I safely test which component is failing? Don't be afraid to explain like I'm five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's on a 2007 Audi A3 2.0 TDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: see pics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvjYg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zK6xU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Aeag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3236" OwnerDisplayName="user1561108" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T21:58:47.260" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T18:26:13.993" Title="Testing radiator fan" Tags="|diagnostics|fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6250" CreationDate="2013-06-04T19:42:17.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The factory electrical manual would be an excellent place to start, if they're still available for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T19:42:17.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6242" CreationDate="2013-06-04T20:10:25.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two immediate thoughts come to mind. The first being the latch is already in the closed position. Insert the key and turn it as you would normally to open the trunk. If you heard a clunk sound the latch unlocked, and the trunk may now work  again.  If nothing happened the latch may be stuck in the closed position. Looking at the latch you should see a &quot;U&quot; shaped opening that the striker should fit in. The second thought is that the latch is now misadjusted after it was reinstalled. If you can see the latch see if all the old paint lines match up. This can be a tricky adjustment. If the latch is in the incorrect position it may not latch or it may latch and not reopen. I would contact the Locksmith and ask if the have a Body Repair shop that they prefer. Bring it to the Body Repair shop and send the bill to the Locksmith if it turns out to be their fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T20:10:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T22:12:25.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2056" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 of the doors are broken: passenger and rear-driver. Broken as in they can only be opened from the inside. Additionally the driver rear door has the child safety lock enabled -- so i can't even open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any online diagrams about the door internals or the best way to remove the door panels. Has anyone had any luck with this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to open the driver rear door? Can the child safety be undone with a coat hanger or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 1998 Suzuki Esteem. Nothing is power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3241" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T20:34:18.593" Title="Suzuki Esteem door repair" Tags="|locks|door|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6257" CreationDate="2013-06-05T01:04:03.283" Score="4" ViewCount="5002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to have a tire repaired today on a new 2013 Honda Accord. When the tire was repaired for a puncture, I saw nothing that looked to me like a tire pressure monitoring system inside the wheel or on the valve stem. It is as if this particular wheel did not get the pressure system installed, or it is so small I can't even tell it is built into the valve stem. What makes these work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vid showing the stem with the tire removed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sdrv.ms/Zs3UlQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sdrv.ms/Zs3UlQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T20:31:29.817" Title="What components make the Honda tire pressure system work?" Tags="|honda|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6250" CreationDate="2013-06-05T04:28:23.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you could first check if they are getting any current with a multimeter or a tester. Then apply the appropiate voltage directly to the fan and see if it works, most fans work with 12v  but if yours are in series it may be different, check the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T04:28:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6254" CreationDate="2013-06-05T05:26:02.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic types of systems, direct and indirect. You have an indirect system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Direct systems&lt;/strong&gt; use a pressure sensor and transmitter for each wheel. They send pressure information from each wheel to a computer module on the car. Some of these systems provide real time pressure and temperature readings to the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of one of the sensors&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRejm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a6/activate-tpms-system-vw-golf.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Indirect Systems&lt;/strong&gt; look at the wheel speed of each wheel (Using the ABS wheel speed sensors)  and compares its speed to the others. If a tire is under-inflated it will spin faster because the tire is smaller. These systems don't know which tire is flat, just that a tire is flat, or maybe not flat just less than the other tires. There are some advance versions of this system that use signal processing to detect all of the tires being under inflated. Since they would all rotate at the same speed if they all had the same amount of under-inflation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T20:05:46.353" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T20:05:46.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6249" CreationDate="2013-06-05T12:09:21.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems you answered your own question.  You just have to back the idle screw out until the desired rpm is reached.  If the idling is an issue then carbs may need to be tuned for the altitude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T12:09:21.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-05T16:41:23.333" Score="2" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Randomly while driving or standing still I get a bunch of warning lights that come on, beep and blink. Sometimes it lasts a few minutes, sometimes it will stay on for a few days of driving and turning the car on and off. I also loose the rpm gauge when this happens and the A/C stops blowing cold air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdotj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that it might be the ABS module, but I would like some more feedback on what I should look at. I have of course checked fluids and decided to change the oil as well since it was time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard would it be to fix myself? I have tools and I have worked on cars before, I also have a good friend (truck driver) who can help but he was unsure as to what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T21:45:01.073" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T03:30:05.313" Title="Audi A6 2.4L 99 - randomly sets off brake warning lights, no abs, no rpm, no A/C" Tags="|electrical|oil|audi|warning-light|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-05T21:48:46.487" Score="7" ViewCount="111246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a diesel powered Audi A4 B7 (2006) 2.0TDi (the 170BHP variety) with a manual gearbox, which I've owned for around 18 months. The car has just short of 100k miles and has a full dealer service history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was given a service just under 12 months ago, and it was a major service. It's next service is due shortly, but due to the age of the car, I'm considering doing this myself. I'm by no means an expert, but have done numerous DIY jobs on cars over the past 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car isn't reporting any problems (and my OBD2 scanner reports no faults logged on the ECU)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is starting to become difficult to start when the engine is cold. My first thought was that it could be the glow plugs, however after some reading, I believe that glow plugs are only required when temperatures are approaching freezing, which isn't the case here in the UK at the moment. This morning, the ambient temperature was in excess of 10 degrees Celsius, and the car took around 5 seconds of starter motor activity before the engine fired up. Once the engine was running for a few seconds, the engine ran as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the afternoon, when leaving work (the car had been stood for over 8 hours), the ambient temperature was around 20 degrees Celsius, and the car took several minutes to fire up, with around 5 attempts with the starter motor for between 5 and 10 seconds per attempt. Again, once the engine fired up, it ran as normal. Given that the engine/ambient temperature was higher in the afternoon and it took longer to start, I'm increasingly thinking it isn't glow plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal engine running condition is fine, but whilst the engine is cold, it does smoke quite badly (not enough to fail an emissions test), and the idle speed can be erratic when cold. I reported this to our Audi dealer when they serviced the car last year, and they assured me that there was nothing wrong with the car (I didn't buy the car from the dealer, so they have no reason to lie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a known problem with the injectors on this engine model, but my Audi dealer was able to check back on their computer and confirmed that all the injectors had been replaced under a recall due to the fault (by a previous owner). I asked them to double check, and they told me they checked one of the injectors, and it was indeed an updated one that didn't have the known fault. - again why would they lie, they'd be losing a sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is used daily and probably does around 1,000 miles a month, and despite my concerns about the erratic idle speed and smoking when cold, it's been very reliable until this recent problem starting with a cold engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the car simply need a service (oil change, oil filter change, new air filter, new diesel filter, etc) or could there be a more sinister problem looming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning the car started perfectly first time. Last night I filled the car up with Diesel, and the car did around 20-30 miles before being parked up for the night. Could this be related in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="1682" LastEditDate="2014-08-31T13:11:02.780" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T21:59:46.793" Title="Diesel Engine difficult to start" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|starting|troubleshooting|audi|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-06T03:05:15.957" Score="1" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the ball joints on my escort but i don't have a pickle fork. Most of the things i've seen so far without the fork require removing the calipers and rotor. Is there another method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3248" LastEditorUserId="3248" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T03:19:04.223" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T13:59:41.783" Title="92 ford escort - Is there a way to remove a ball joint without a pickle fork AND without removing the brakes?" Tags="|suspension|steering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2013-06-06T03:30:02.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a US car made after 1996 (and 2008 with a CAN bus) the check engine light (CEL) appears after a specific set of parameters are met with respect to vehicle sensors, generally having to do with emissions performance. This is why cars with CEL lights illuminated automatically fail emissions testing in many jurisdictions, including New York and California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly the CEL is illuminated for a reason that does not affect drivability, but only emissions performance. In any case I only endeavor to answer your question not judge your motives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To turn off this light it a simple matter to use an inexpensive code reader plugged into the OBD II diagnostic connector (that is mandated to be located within 2 feet of the steering wheel) and reset the light using the controls on the device, which vary by brand. Some auto parts stores will perform this service or the code reader can generally be purchased for less than $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, the OBD II will now report that the car is in an &quot;unready&quot; state and attempting to pass an emissions test in this state will cause the car to automatically fail despite the CEL being off. A retest will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, driving the car through various &quot;trip&quot; cycles will provide enough data to the car's computer to make the car &quot;ready&quot; but also will cause the CEL to illuminate again if the underlying trouble is not addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T10:03:08.693" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T10:03:08.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="604" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:11:13.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speaking to the asker:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 158 of the 2005 Crossfire Owner's Manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;DaimlerChrysler Corporation &lt;em&gt;requires&lt;/em&gt; the use of 91 octane or higher premium fuel to minimize the potential for &lt;em&gt;engine damage.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend the extra $4 per fill-up and get the 91 octane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speaking to the question itself:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without specifics, and without defining &quot;high&quot; and &quot;high compression&quot; it isn't possible to determine an answer. However, &lt;em&gt;all other variables being held constant,&lt;/em&gt; using a high octane fuel allows you to design a higher compression engine to take advantage of that octane number. The power then comes from the higher compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compression ratio (CR) or induction type (turbo/super charged or normally aspirated) of the engine is immaterial unless you know the operating parameters of that &lt;em&gt;particular&lt;/em&gt; motor! There are engines today that take 87 octane fuel at 13:1 compression, like Mazda's SKYACTIV, and some engines at 10:1 compression require 93 octane, such as the LS3 V8 in the Corvette. By the way, these are incredible compression numbers for unleaded gas, far higher than cars from the 1970's running 10:1 compression that used to require leaded fuel at up to 104 octane!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different manufacturer's engines are designed around a specific octane number. Some can tolerate lower octane numbers for long periods by retarding engine timing or reducing turbocharger boost. This can be a designed operating parameter or a temporary measure to avoid engine damage. Depends on the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One owner's manual might specify premium fuel with no exceptions except in emergencies (Subaru WRX), while another owner's manual states lower octane merely reduces power with no long term harm (Nissan Maxima).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure is simply to follow the requirements of the manufacturer (who honors warranty work on the car) and engineers who designed and tested the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T04:11:13.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:20:20.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your manual states 91 octane fuel (I checked). Filling up with a lower octane fuel will cause knocking and the computer will retard timing to prevent engine damage. You won't hear it, the knock sensor is more sensitive than your ears. Running in this retarded state isn't a normal operating parameter and not recommended.  Go with the 93, the .20 more per gallon isn't enough of a savings to go with the 89.&#xA;The owner's manual states 87 octane is the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not cause engine damage by using an octane several points above the manufacturer's recommendation since this will not cause spark knock and the engine will not then have to retard timing, which are the detrimental operating conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volvo recommends premium fuel for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T10:01:42.593" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T10:01:42.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:36:13.627" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;silicate&lt;/em&gt; antifreezes, used in most domestic cars until recent years, and OAT antifreezes, used in Japanese cars because of their domestic market testing. In OAT antifreeze the silicate has been replaced with &lt;em&gt;phosphates&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domestic cars today all use OAT now, with Chrysler the last to switch. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sae.org/mags/aei/mater/11284&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sae.org/mags/aei/mater/11284&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any OAT antifreeze will work in a Honda, but don't use silicate antifreeze in any Japanese coolant system, Honda or otherwise. Evidence shows it reduces water pump life in certain Japanese import cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prestone Regular or 50/50 is a silicate free OAT antifreeze. It uses phosphates to replace the silicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it isn't the color but the composition that matters. It was confusing for a while, but since most of the industry went to OAT you can't go far wrong with any name brand off-the-shelf coolant. The US and Japan are on the same page in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the link above: &quot;The dye color of antifreeze has nothing to do with antifreeze formula or performance. Chrysler’s G-05 contains orange dye to distinguish it from a yellow dye antifreeze previously used. Other users of G-05 have yellow or even blue dye. However, GM DexCool, a purely organic acid type, also has orange dye, and this has been a source of service industry confusion. Fiat’s OAT, although a different formula, also has orange dye and it has been used in early production of the Dodge Dart. The new Chrysler OAT, however, will have a purple dye.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's far more important to use distilled water, which is less than a dollar per gallon and often overlooked in this discussion. Tap water contains minerals you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what gives Prestone the confidence to state &quot;all makes and models?&quot; It contains phosphates, not silicates, so it is safe to use in a Japanese car's cooling system. It can also be used in any non-Japanese car as long as &lt;em&gt;North American water&lt;/em&gt; is used! So to support its claim Prestone merely specifies that its coolant be used in North America! Simple. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://prestone.com/safety-tips-faqs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://prestone.com/safety-tips-faqs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Some European automobile manufacturers request that a phosphate-free antifreeze be used in their vehicles. This issue is related to the extremely high mineral content of the water in Europe ... in North America we do not have this type of water problem ... the question of phosphates is a non-issue here in North America. Prestone® Antifreeze/Coolant is completely safe for use in both foreign and domestic vehicles.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T15:07:34.267" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T15:07:34.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5607" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:45:52.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dry radiator and cooling system will cause overheating that is likely to warp cylinder heads but will certainly take a lot of life out of your car. The long term damage is impossible to even see let alone fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, why do we have antifreeze? Or even a cooling system? Well, water vapor (steam) does not cool very well, liquid does, and the presence of air pockets in the cooling system prevents the proper circulation of the antifreeze mixture through the water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We prevent steam production (those air pockets) by preventing the fluid from boiling in the first place. We do this by increasing the boiling point of plain water by putting it under pressure. We also add &quot;antifreeze&quot; (also called &quot;coolant&quot;) which apart from freeze prevention also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carid.com/articles/antifreeze-explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;increases the boiling point&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the car's pressurized system plus antifreeze keep the liquid from boiling into vapor. The liquid then absorbs heat and prevents overheating. The liquid then passes through the radiator where it sheds its heat, then circulates back to the block and heads to take more heat out of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without antifreeze in you car &lt;em&gt;you are running an all-vapor system!&lt;/em&gt; Waste heat cannot leave the engine. An air-cooled engine at least has the benefit of cooing fins. You don't. So the temperature of the other fluids, metal parts, seals all quickly rise to dangerous levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it is simply a matter of time before you get the problems of running hot: detonation, oil turning into solid deposits, metal warping (aluminum before steel) and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your automatic transmission shares a radiator with the engine to cool the transmission fluid, so without antifreeze in a functioning radiator you are going to quickly overheat the fluid (a kind of special oil) in the transmission: causing deposits to build up in tiny passages, poor shifting, and ultimately damage to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars can detect this overheating with a temperature sensor and put the car into a &quot;limp home mode&quot; that limits engine speed but it's a race against time before major damage is done. If not catastrophic damage that leaves you stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without extensive testing, you don't have any way of knowing exactly when damage will occur. You certainly have more time on a cold day, but 30 degree or 90 degree day, the car is going to run up to 300+ before long without antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T23:26:21.527" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T23:26:21.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:53:46.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;...replace my radiator, block heater, and hose urgently...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My, this mechanic must have X-Ray vision. He can see all these bad parts without a test, from some &lt;em&gt;dried&lt;/em&gt; residue (not &lt;em&gt;wet&lt;/em&gt;, even after you drove the car there). All these easy to get at, high labor cost items all failing at the same time, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, exactly, is leaking? He can't say if it's a hose or a radiator? A good mechanic will pressure test and repair/replace the defective part, not throw a bunch of expensive parts at a problem at &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; expense. Run away to an honest shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T04:53:46.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:59:16.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a temperature sensor coming out of the thermostat housing suspect it as the cause of your surging issue. This doesn't even set a CEL light. You can change it same time as the thermostat replacement. Read the Honda groups on the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low level of coolant won't cause engine surging, nor will air in the system. It is good to try to get it out though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T04:59:16.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2013-06-06T08:35:04.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always prefer to use a scissor-type ball joint separator, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht222-ball-joint-remover?da=1&amp;amp;TC=SRC-ball%20joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; rather than a fork-type one, if it'll fit. They're less likely to cause damage to other parts (and to the joints themselves, but that doesn't matter if you're replacing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's stopping you buying a fork-type one? They're incredibly cheap (the above site has them for £5, so less than US$10 ), certainly much less than the value of the time it'll take to remove and replace the brakes! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T08:35:04.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2013-06-06T08:50:34.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The door releases generally consist of a set of metal rods, and the usual cause of failure is one of these becoming detached - does the handle feel loose when you try and open it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the specifics for the Suzuki, but door cards are usually held on by a mixture of bolts/screws and clips. The trick is to actually find all the screws... There's usually a couple holding on the handle, one for the inside door release, and three or four in the plastic door pocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've managed to find and remove all the screws, you need to remove the inner door release handle (disconnecting the aforementioned metal rod - this bit will be fiddly), then, starting at the bottom, pull the card away from the door to release the clips. With the clips loose, lift the card to unhook the inner window seal from the top of the door frame and remove the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Behind the card you'll see a plastic sheet covering the inside of the door, held on with some manky sealant (I don't know what it is, but it's always manky and sticky. Don't get it on your clothes...), and through that you should see holes in the inner door frame. Remove the plastic from the hole closest to the lock and try to find the missing rod. If you're lucky, it'll just need reconnecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Refitting is the reverse of removal&quot;, with the fiddly bit being reconnecting the inner release handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process ought to be the same with the rear door, but I've never tried getting the card off a door without opening it. You might find things get in the way, like the rear seat squab... Do the front one first so you know the process, and look at the passenger side door to work out where all the screws are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T08:50:34.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2013-06-06T13:59:53.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is the coolant temperature sensor.  Try unplugging it and if it will start without it the sensor is damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad ECT sensors can cause non-starting issues.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=46772458&amp;amp;postcount=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;honda-tech.com&lt;/a&gt; for a conversation about ECT sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...yes a bad ECT can cause hard starting or a no start condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ECT sensor is bad you can get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/honda-civic-w0133-1624204-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-fae/avyGqP19OGqaoEd7F?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=gps&amp;amp;utm_term=Honda+Civic+Engine+Coolant+Temperature+Sensor+FAE+W0133-1624204&amp;amp;utm_campaign=google_base&amp;amp;gclid=CND-5MbYw7kCFS6CQgod7HcAag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new one&lt;/a&gt; for around $30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3251" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T15:50:04.557" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T15:50:04.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2013-06-06T16:47:15.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjM6rTVre-0&amp;amp;t=4m51s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is how you can remove the ball joint from the LCA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd5IcN3yjsg&amp;amp;t=3m28s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is how you remove the ball joint from the knuckle. He took the entire assembly off the vehicle. However you may be able to finagle it out while it is still on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T16:47:15.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2013-06-06T17:01:26.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple things you might want to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant temperature sensor. With a cold engine the ecu should try to dump more fuel in for starting. If the sensor isn't working it might send the wrong amount of fuel and inhibit starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle Air Control valve. This going bad could cause similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T17:01:26.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6277" CreationDate="2013-06-06T18:22:49.050" Score="11" ViewCount="60691" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is against cars with automatic transmission because he thinks that they break easily and that their repairing cost a lot. He thinks that it is impossible to maintain an automatic transmission box. Hence he is avoiding all cars with automatic transmissions -- I am very skeptical about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the lifetimes of automatic transmission boxes and manual transmission boxes? By which actions you can increase the lifetime of an automatic transmission box? Is it more expensive to maintain a car with automatic-transmission than a car with a manual transmission?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:24:22.360" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T16:59:25.480" Title="Durability of automatic transmission boxes versus durability of manual transmission boxes? Their lifetimes?" Tags="|transmission|maintenance|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6276" CreationDate="2013-06-06T19:02:33.093" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will probably work out to be the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automatic transmission is inherently more complicated which means more can go wrong and usually does (more so than manuals). The increased complexity also makes them more expensive, heavier, less fuel efficient etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A manual transmission is less complicated which means there is less that can go wrong. Through normal use a manual transmission should far outlive an automatic transmission with regards to absolute lifespan. HOWEVER, a manual transmission requires the use of a clutch which will wear out quite quickly relative to an automatic transmissions life-cycle. If you are not able to replace a clutch yourself (which requires removing the transmission) then you will be paying quite a bit more maintenance on the manual transmission every time the clutch wears out (anywhere from 2-8 years). With the automatic transmission there is less high ticket maintenance required besides fluid flushes. If your automatic transmission dies however then it will probably be at-least $1000 more expensive than the equivalent manual transmission to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it probably depends how long he wants to keep the vehicle and whether he cares about having to replace clutches or is able to do that himself to save money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T19:02:33.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6289" CreationDate="2013-06-06T19:45:13.073" Score="5" ViewCount="2966" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is very odd: this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6276/durability-of-automatic-transmission-boxes-versus-durability-of-manual-transmiss&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; about durability comparison between automatic/manual durability meant to him that manual is always better option because you can learn to change the clutch and only reason why people sell so many automatic-transmission cars is because the automatic-transmission box needs to be soon replaced. My other friend said that changing the clutch is better done with a professional mechanic because you often need to open the half of the motor. Now I am trying to find ways to judge whether an automatic gearbox is in good condition or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I judge the condition of the automatic-transmission box? How often should an automatic-transmission box be changed? Any simple rules of thumbs like every 200k km a new gearbox?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:58:10.897" Title="How to know when automatic-transmission box needs to be changed?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6278" CreationDate="2013-06-06T21:42:46.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're over thinking this. You only need to replace an automatic transmission if it breaks or otherwise works very poorly, starts to slip, etc. For the most part, it either works or it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T21:42:46.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6282" CreationDate="2013-06-06T21:43:59.707" Score="2" ViewCount="2193" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend needs a car for night-time driving for distances about 15 km to-and-fro for his work. I read that short distances may be problematic to cars because the engine does not get hot enough -- noticed the thing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1466/3252&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Something called oil cap may get cream on it and possible broken head gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is this foam a common feature with every car particularly in cold environment? How should you select a car for short distances? How should you maintain a car where the motor rarely gets hot? How long distances should you make to heat up the motor and in which kind of weather?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T14:03:35.133" Title="Cream on oil cap? How to maintain a car that drives only short distances in Nordic environment?" Tags="|maintenance|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2013-06-07T02:20:27.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year Escort uses a ball joint that attaches to the knuckle via a pinch bolt. It is not a taper fit shaft that is typically used. The ball joint shaft has a radius notch that the pinch bolt slides into. In theory once the bolt is removed the ball joint should slip out. The theory part means that a &quot;pickle fork&quot; may be needed to get the shaft to slip out. The ball-joint is attached to the control arm by two bolts. Not pressed in as shown in the generic video Typically the brakes must be removed to get the ball joint to clear the dust shield behind the rotor. You may be lucky and slip the ball joint past the dustshield  by loosening the ball-joint to control arm mounting bolts. You may also have to remove the sway bar mounts from the control arm to allow it to pivot low enough to get the balljoint to clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T02:20:27.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6280" CreationDate="2013-06-07T08:04:53.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, 15km is enough to get the engine warmed up. It isn't as good as a regular blast to fully burn off deposits through the exhaust but it will get rid of condensation, so will help your exhaust system last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think although you say you understood the answer in your link, I don't think you have. While looking for creamy residue on the oil cap is a good indicator that the oil cas water or something else in it (possibly because of a gasket failure) this is not really relevant to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take your question as, &quot;&lt;strong&gt;How to maintain a car that drives only short distances in Nordic environment?&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; then it is relatively simple to answer (in fact I would edit your question to just have this - the remainder of the question doesn't fit with the 1 Question rule here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the external cold can be quite extreme in the far north, this is mainly a problem before the car is running, as batteries do not like delivering current when cold - so it can be tricky to start a car in the cold. So you want to install a heavy duty battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you will also keep the car in a garage, which allows you to keep it a little warmer, and possibly keep it plugged in to a trickle charger through the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running, most engines generate sufficient heat that the cold outside isn't a problem. The main exception being long motorway drives - the load on the engine can be very low and the cold air through the radiator can cause a build up of ice that can damage the radiator or other areas - hence the reason for some Arctic trucks to have winter baffles placed over much of the radiator. They also reduce snow blowing in - but from the description of your journeys this probably isn't going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said above, 15km is plenty to get the engine and fluids to a good temperature. But be careful for your first couple of kilometres, as you may find brakes and power steering may not be as effective as once you have fully warmed up the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T08:04:53.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6280" CreationDate="2013-06-07T12:14:10.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I had a short (5 mile) commute, I just didn't worry about it.  Yes, the oil cap would collect a good amount of foam as the engine didn't get hot enough for a long enough time to cook all the moisture out.  It was a good excuse to go take the car for a nice half hour scenic drive on the weekends.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess accelerated corrosion would be the only real concern from not cooking out all the moisture.  I suppose that could possibly lead to a head gasket failure, but I can't think of an exact mechanism that would make that more likely to fail than other various components internal components that don't like being wet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T12:14:10.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T13:23:42.977" Score="2" ViewCount="4074" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's be clear-- the sound is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; coming from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's something more along the lines of suspension, maybe? It's like when the car moves, turning or moving forward, whenever the inertia changes, there's a groaning, as though the body of the car were straining against whatever it were mounted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea. Thoughts? Questions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T15:33:39.530" Title="Car making a groaning sound when it moves?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6285" CreationDate="2013-06-07T13:49:46.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess would be worn-out rubber bushings in the suspension components. Check the lower control arms, especially where they attach to the shocks, for cracks or complete deterioration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T13:49:46.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T15:10:18.980" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 2000 Camaro v6 manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most days the car starts just fine but on other days I might have to start it 20 times before it stays on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start it, the RPM is around 1000 but slowly drops to around 800 before it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I apply the gas as the car starts it will die almost instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the battery but I'm afraid I stripped the battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, after trying to start it 15 or so times, I had to pull the keys out the ignition, wait a minute, and start it before it stayed on. I'm not if pulling the keys out the ignition helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:30:05.580" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:30:05.580" Title="2000 Chevy Camaro starts, idles low around 1000 rpms for 4 or 5 seconds before dying" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|manual-transmission|idle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-13T18:56:38.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6285" CreationDate="2013-06-07T15:33:39.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When's the last time you greased your suspension ball joints?  Unless they're sealed, they should have some zerk fittings on them for a grease gun.  If they are sealed, you can drill a hole in them and attach a fitting, but you'd be better off just replacing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T15:33:39.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6278" CreationDate="2013-06-07T15:44:10.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd typically only replace an automatic transmission if it failed.  Signs that an automatic transmission needs work are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipping -- the engine revs unusually high for the speed the vehicle is traveling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard shifts -- the transmission abruptly &quot;slams&quot; into the next gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delayed shifts -- the transmission doesn't shift until the engine is almost at redline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to check when looking at a car is to pull the dipstick for the transmission and smell it.  If the fluid smells burnt, it's a good sign there's a problem with the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T15:44:10.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T19:01:19.923" Score="2" ViewCount="5049" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend just bought a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and neither of us can figure out how the door locks work. It doesn't have any separate lock/unlock button on the inside of the door like most vehicles have, just the mechanical switches attached to the levers to open the doors. However, the vehicle has power windows, and I would be really surprised if it's lacking power locks. Are the mechanical switches on the front doors (and possibly also the key) supposed to activate power lock/unlock on all doors? If so, aside from the fuse, are there common things that go wrong with this system that we should check out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T19:42:47.007" Title="2002 Hyundai Elantra power locks?" Tags="|electrical|locks|hyundai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6292" CreationDate="2013-06-07T19:42:38.563" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saab is now in bankrupt so it may be difficult to get parts for maintenance in the future. &lt;strong&gt;So is there any sense of buying the Saab?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking between &lt;a href=&quot;http://fin.auto24.ee/used/1076454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volkswagen Passat&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://fin.auto24.ee/used/1373555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saab 9-3 1.9&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Both are diesel and manual gear. These are two cars are only examples in the links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T17:14:07.433" Title="Any sense of buying Saab 9-3 1.9?" Tags="|saab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2013-06-07T20:21:28.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No sense at all. You will have a terrible time finding any parts for it. My coworker had a very nice Saab last year, until a thief broke one of his windows. He searched high and low for a new window, and even if one could be found, it would have been overpriced. In the end, the Saab was replaced with a different car simply because of a broken window. Imagine if you needed an engine part. No dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T20:21:28.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2013-06-07T20:56:47.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the question involved a brand that sold more units worldwide and had a history of using the same parts for many years I would go for the Saab if it was what I really wanted. I don't know many people who rely solely on the dealer for parts of seven year old cars. Most go to the aftermarket or used for routine wear and crash items. If 2007 was the last year Saab or anyone else used a particular switch or body part it will most likely be unavailable seven years later from the dealer. If Saabs were a more popular brand the answer might be different as the aftermarket would take up where the factory left off. I know in my area of the U.S. Saab parts were rare when they made them. Since it is a Saab I would agree with @hillsons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T20:56:47.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6290" CreationDate="2013-06-07T21:17:28.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking with Kelly Blue Book the power window and power locks are listed as separate options.  Looking at past reviews some state that the power door locks were standard equipment and are operated by the key fob (remote). The fob is supposed to unlock all the doors according to the original sales information I have found. I would check the fuse panel to see if a fuse is labeled power door locks. If a fuse is in the holder the car most likely came with power locks.  With some research you may find a universal key fob remote and program it to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T21:31:33.053" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T21:31:33.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6404" CreationDate="2013-06-07T23:15:57.850" Score="4" ViewCount="12445" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel arches on the rear fenders on my 92 Civic are badly rusted out, which seems to be a common problem. I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixmyrust.com/Category/DR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;replacements you can weld in&lt;/a&gt; at very reasonable prices, but I have no welding qualifications and expect it would be very costly to have a professional install them. Is it possible to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rust converter&lt;/a&gt; followed by body filler compound to get a durable and good-looking repair? I'm a real beginner at body work so apologies if this question seems stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the rust damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmDTp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; This looks like a similar procedure to what I might do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1237897&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1237897&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed in that thread was the claim that filler will wick moisture and promote rusting again. Is this true, and are there any good ways to avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T17:16:09.717" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:53:46.937" Title="Repair or replace rusted rear wheel arches on 92 Civic?" Tags="|honda|civic|body|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6306" CreationDate="2013-06-08T22:58:51.653" Score="3" ViewCount="188766" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car (Renault Megane 1998 1.6e hatchback) lost power (about 500rpm in a bursty rhythm) after I re-ignited on a traffic light, the engine started shaking, and I could smell liquid fuel. There was no obvious place where the fuel could have dripped from. I left the car and checked for any marks on the ground later. About two hours later the car started and ran OK. Then after a few more hours of rest it ran OK again for a few miles, but after a brief stop when I ignited while the engine was hot it started shaking and smelling like fuel again. My first guess would be spark plugs, but I'm afraid of something more serious. What else could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Checked the spark plugs -- not them. I have some suspicion about bad fuel as I filled about 5L of petrol the day before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;I tried pulling the the ignition leads from the engine side during the faulty running of the engine. I didn't dare pull them all the way out, but an inch was just about enough to hear the distinctive sound of a spark jumping to the plug. Two of them (1 and 4) failed to produce that sound. I've ordered ignition leads, so I'll soon find out of they were the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had another experience I tried driving the car with the engine shaking and about 500 down the road after I stepped on the gas quite hard, it started working properly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastEditorUserId="3261" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T16:01:52.653" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T07:34:02.827" Title="Possible reasons for loss of power, engine shaking, and smell of liquid fuel (not burning)?" Tags="|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T02:53:21.243" Score="2" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was hoping someone could help me out with an issue I'm having since I'm running of ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it helps, its a 71 Nova with a small block 350.  Carbuerated and HEI, without any computer chips or sensors that could be adding extra complications to the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically whats happening is that at freeway speeds, the engine seems to &quot;cutout&quot; if I go over a certain speed.  Generally, it seems to happen if I go over about 2500 rpm.  The weird part is that I can rev it up over 4000 rpm in my driveway and not have an issue at all.  The cutout makes a &quot;clicking&quot; sound that almost seems to be coming from the distributor but since I can rev higher in my driveway I'm leaning towards it being a fuel issue rather than electrical?  Here's a video that might help describe it better.  The clicking sounds louder in person and you feel a slight jolt forward as though quickly taking your foot completely off the pedal.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/UdbuKAmVRHs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/UdbuKAmVRHs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out trying to pinpoint the issue at the cheap end and I've been working my way up to more expensive.  Already replaced all the spark plugs and checked the wires.  Replaced the fuel filter (inline and the ones inside the carbuerator).  Hadn't officially set the timing last time I pulled the distributor, so tried that.  Was 5 degrees initial, 25 degrees total before setting it, used the timing light to set it at 15 initial and 34 final (with vaccum line sealed), still no luck.  Adjusted the floats in the carb as per edlebrock's manual, also picked up a rebuild kit to replace a couple gaskets.  Went ahead and changed out the &quot;needle and seat assembly&quot; on both sides that open adn close with the float to let fuel into the bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, at this point I'm almost out of ideas.  I'm guessing the next step would be to replace either the fuel pump or the whole carbuerator all together?  I've always been told that fuel pumps either work or don't, but maybe its not putting out enough volume?  Seems to work fine while parked, but hard to check at freeway speeds.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I went ahead and changed out the fuel pump this weekend and it didn't seem to fix it.  Also noticed it seems to be a lot worse on hills.  Anything I can try adjusting on the carb before buying a whole new one? Its an Edlebrock 1406.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T06:41:20.187" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T20:06:39.360" Title="SB350 cutout at freeway speed, revs fine in neutral" Tags="|engine|electrical|fuel-system|chevrolet|carburetor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T12:57:13.383" Score="2" ViewCount="8135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brought a new VW Polo 2012 plate. It's only a few months since it was registered by the dealer. However all a sudden the AC has stopped working. When I press the button labelled AC the light comes on. It's more effective to open the window!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I troubleshoot this? I hear that your AC has to be serviced if it's not cold. But my car is effectively brand new. Before I go to the dealer is there anything I can check myself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the fuses and there aren't any blown ones. I checked them all since there's no info on what each fuse does. Not even in the manual/fuse box lid!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T09:35:26.607" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T09:35:26.607" Title="AC not cold anymore on brand new VW Polo" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6299" CreationDate="2013-06-09T16:11:10.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bought it from a dealer, it should be under warranty. Don't go messing with trying to fix/recharge the A/C yourself or paying somebody to do it. Make them fix it. It's their problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to check some stuff yourself first, you could look in the fuse box(es) and see if there's a fuse labeled &quot;A/C relay&quot; or similar, and make sure it has continuity. Also, open the hood and make sure the condenser fan turns on when you press the A/C button. But really, unless the problem is as simple as a fuse, you want to make the dealer fix it. That's part of what you paid for when you spent dealer prices on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T16:11:10.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6295" CreationDate="2013-06-09T16:48:26.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pictures show some extensive rust. Body filler is used to cover low spots and smooth seams it is not intended to replace metal. The proper method is as you say to cut out the rust and weld in the new parts. However if you are just trying to get through another inspection period, finish school etc a short term repair may work for just that, a short term. The first thing to determine if is the rust has progressed to the point the structure of the car is unsafe. Unibody chassis are built like a cardboard box, pretty strong unless you start cutting big holes in it. Have a mechanic raise the car on a lift and check the underside of the car. Pay particular attention to the suspension mounting points and critical body stiffening panels. If you get the repair panels you may attempt to install them with rivets or sheet metal screws it may look decent for a short time, but will eventually fail. As far as what it will look like it will most likely be a 50/50 repair. It may look ok going by at 50 mph or from 50 feet away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T16:48:26.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2013-06-09T17:14:07.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saab Automobile Parts AB was not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB. It is now in the ownership of Swedish National Dept Office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Saab Automobile Parts AB is not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The parts company continues to serve Saab customers globally with Saab Genuine Parts and aftersales service and also to expand its logistics operations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The Swedish National Debt Office announced that they intend to take over the ownership of Saab Automobile Parts AB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saabparts.com/en/international/the-company/news/latest-news/newsroom/?nrpid=4335&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.saabparts.com/en/international/the-company/news/latest-news/newsroom/?nrpid=4335&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3265" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T17:14:07.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T18:27:29.753" Score="4" ViewCount="9321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this isn't a car question. There doesn't seem to be an appropriate Exchange for it, so I'm trying it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a two-stroke engine (for a rototiller), and it worked more-or-less well enough until it rained. It seems as if there might be water in the fuel. I tried filtering it with a brand new fuel filter specifically for removing water. Then I tried adding isopropyl alcohol, and some octane booster (as suggested elsewhere on the Internets). No luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts -- but won't keep running for more than a second -- if I put starter fluid in the choke with the air filter off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else to do. Any suggestions would be accepted with gratitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3267" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:32:01.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:32:01.140" Title="Two-stroke engine won't start - water in gas?" Tags="|fuel-tank|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6303" CreationDate="2013-06-09T22:05:05.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the fact that it rained is a coincidence?  Could the fuel just be old?  If you leave a two-stroke engine sitting too long with mixed fuel/oil in the tank, the mix will lose some of its lubricating properties---sometimes enough that when you try to start the engine it'll run for a moment, then overheat from lack of lubrication and stop.  I would drain the tank as best you can and try putting in fresh fuel (with fresh two-stroke oil added in the proper ratio, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T22:05:05.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6309" CreationDate="2013-06-10T03:08:10.157" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a Pathfinder and the stock has an auxiliary port when I got it (used), but the 3.5 cords that I insert into them doesn't go in all the way, and I'm giving it quite a bit of pressure. I'm not sure what's wrong but I don't see anything stuck in it or anything. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is this under warranty and if not, how much does fixing this cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:38:42.937" Title="Aux port '12 Pathfinder not going in all the way" Tags="|electrical|nissan|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6296" CreationDate="2013-06-10T09:33:13.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, what car is it? (Make, model, year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the fuel smell more pronounced around the engine bay (suggesting a leak) or around the exhaust (suggesting unburnt fuel)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaking and low power suggests, as you suspect, that it isn't running on all cylinders (which would result in unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust). If it is only doing so when hot, my first thought would be either the HT leads or coil(s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an older car with a single coil, a distributor, and a separate lead to each spark plug, then, when it is playing up, disconnect each in turn and see what happens. If one or two are failing, it will run just the same with the failing ones disconnected, but worse or not at all with the others disconnected. In this case, replace the whole set. Note that they carry a very high voltage, so DON'T play with them with the engine running! (or wear insulating gloves if you do) - As they get old, the insulation degrades, and they can give a nasty shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a newer car with a separate coil pack for each cylinder, then again it could be a failure of one or more coil packs, and I believe a similar technique can be used to test them, although I've not tried that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T09:33:13.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2013-06-10T10:08:22.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figure I'll post my own answer to the question today since it's the end of my 60 day window to request a refund. After all the things I tried, considering the Blue Devil attempt a failure, and starting the process to request a refund, I finally had success; the seal has held for over a month now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it took in the end was driving 4 hours at 70 mph on a cold day, where the temperature gauge on the dash stayed all the way down on &quot;C&quot; for the entire drive (made possible by the thermostat having been removed). At the end of the drive, I expected to need to refill the coolant, but only a small amount had been lost, and there was no pressure on the top radiator hose after the engine had cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess for what happened is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To seal, the product needs a temperature gradient at the point of the leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is supposed to be provided by adding the product to the system immediately after starting the engine, while it's still cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But the leak only happened under high engine load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active cooling via cold air across the radiator provided a cool enough system to get the necessary temperature gradient at the point of leak while it was actually leaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T10:08:22.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6303" CreationDate="2013-06-10T14:06:50.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water is heavier than gasoline and can usually be drained off of the bottom of the tank. If you are concerned about losing too much gas you can also dump the fuel into another container and let it the water settle out. You should be able to see a clear line between the water and the gas if it is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:06:50.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6305" CreationDate="2013-06-10T14:38:42.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixing this shouldn't cost you more than $10-20 parts and labor combined. If you bought it from a dealer recently they should take care of it for free. If not you just need to complain a bit to the manager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:38:42.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2013-06-10T17:46:45.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. That was because of water getting in carburetor .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T18:23:39.710" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T18:23:39.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6297" CreationDate="2013-06-10T18:42:44.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This to me sounds like some form of vacuum actuator that's leaking somewhere under load. I would look for any dry or thinned out vacuum lines. I had something similar happen, though it was on a throttle body injected truck. Enough vacuum was pulled that a line either collapsed or flattened out enough for it to get pinched by something. Either way I would check the vacuum lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's naturally aspirated and only does this at speed and there's a clicking sound, I think I would be looking for a vacuum operated valve. Is there any kind of emissions or valve that lets some exhaust back into the intake to help warm the car up when cold? On my motorcycle, the carbs have a vacuum line that vents to atmosphere via a filter. If you blow air into it or it's in the airflow while riding it will cause the engine to stutter similar to what you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T18:42:44.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6303" CreationDate="2013-06-11T08:55:09.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, any engine needs spark, compression and fuel in order to run. If it starts when you put starter fluid directly in the engine, that suggests to me it's not getting fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've already filtered the water out of the fuel we ought to be able to rule that out. The next check is to make sure fuel is actually getting to the engine. How is it fed? Is it gravity, or is there a pump? Is there an in-line filter between the tank and the carb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have an obstruction in the fuel line - if water could have got in, so could bits of grit, leaf, etc. Try disconnecting the fuel line from the engine (put the end into a clear bottle so the fuel doesn't go everywhere) and see if you can get fuel to flow. (there could also be a blockage in the carb, but try the easier stuff first...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T08:55:09.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T17:10:56.150" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine speeds on startup (wont idle) after sitting for years - 1986 honda civic.&#xA;As soon as I turn the key on it will keep speeding up higher &amp;amp; higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T17:54:32.573" Title="engine speeds on startup (wont idle) after sitting for years - 1986 honda civic" Tags="|engine|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T17:14:12.087" Score="1" ViewCount="15853" Body="&lt;p&gt;So normally when you want to test your fuses, you set the car to on and put the tester clip to ground then put the tester's lead on the fuse. if it lights up then the fuse is working. Well, even when I remove the car key, the tester light still comes on. This seems to indicate a short somewhere. Also when I measure the current with a multimeter by disconnecting the negative lead on the battery, it shows about .8A with the car off. Also, when I reconnect the negative lead to the battery, sometimes it activates the car like it would drive the radiator fan for a second or some other electrical parts. There's also loud clicking noise like the starter is engaging but only for a second. Does anyone know what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3275" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T14:07:55.100" Title="Car keys off but fuse still lights up the tester when set to ground" Tags="|electrical|battery|fuse|short|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6314" CreationDate="2013-06-11T17:29:40.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your throttle linkage, make sure the throttle plate is returning to idle. Look for vacuum leaks on all the hoses. The Car is idling high because it's getting too much air &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T17:29:40.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6315" CreationDate="2013-06-11T17:44:15.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That just means that particular circuit is an always on circuit and not switched by the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you reconnect the battery lead the computer is probably doing a power on test and as such some relays are being activated such as testing the fan etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T17:44:15.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T21:39:37.517" Score="3" ViewCount="14876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 L V6 4x4 model. I recently was having some problems with the truck idling too low when cold and I decided to change the spark plugs. I put in 4 out of the 6 new plugs and things seemed to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, during the change, I accidentally broke a little vacuum hose that goes to a small black globe towards the front. From what I have heard, this hose just controls things like the vents and such. I put some hose tape on it and drove it to work, planning on getting a replacement that day, and I barely made it there - after 10 minutes there was almost no acceleration, I had to pull over, wait 15-20 minutes, then go. The gas consumption was insane, like 5 miles per gallon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after work I replaced the little hose, and now the stop-and-start stuff is gone but the acceleration and fuel consumption are still terrible. I'm going to try and get the code read at AutoZone today, but I don't see a check engine light on so I'm not optimistic it'll tell me what's wrong. Is there something I can do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I changed two things - broke the tube and changed the plugs, so I don't know which one exactly caused the problem. From how sluggish it is it feels like maybe a few cylinders aren't firing (I've checked all the plugs, pulled them out and put them back in, tightened them, etc), but I imagine it could also be some problem with a bad fuel mixture. What could cause this? What is my next step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Forgot to put some pictures in here. This is the hose that broke, with the place of the break indicated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMt73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BrokenHose&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a picture of where it attaches to this little vacuum globe thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHubQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vacuum globe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt; Since I don't know what caused this I haven't accepted an answer, but for future sufferers I'm going to detail the further symptoms and will update when I find an answer. One problem was that the plugs that Amazon recommended were very much the wrong plugs. I should have been using AGSF-22PP from Motorcraft or equivalent, I was using NGK TR6 - same size and heat rating, but way different gapping, it's a copper plug not a platinum, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to triage this so I pulled codes and found 2 cylinders not firing, plus a third spark plug I saw a hairline crack in, so I replaced only those 3 cylinders, plus all the spark plug wires (one of the wires was rusted and useless when I examined them, so I got a new kit). That didn't fix it, but I took apart the throttle body and the MAF - everything looked fine there, but when I put it back together, the truck ran very well for about a week or so. Yesterday I started losing power at the high end, so it seems like whatever the problem is it's coming back. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF again but this did not help the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="3279" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T14:50:14.120" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T14:08:40.167" Title="Slow acceleration, high fuel consumption after spark plug change" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|fuel-system|truck|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:28:39.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have no idea about this particular globe thing... does not look like PCV of any kind... but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by double checking the spark plug gaps. Maybe it's so off you are just not burning the fuel. how is the smoke coming out the exhaust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check how much oil is in that hose when you changed. Also, use a flashlight and check the combustion chamber when you take the sparks out. Maybe that hose kept the oil out of the combustion chamber by some pressure change? maybe you combustion chamber is full of oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, have no idea about that car :) just things I would try if it were me without a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:28:39.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:45:03.283" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most answers here are wrong... whatever you do with your coolants, the last you can do is cause corrosion. All the formulas will prevent corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is with mixing coolants you can &quot;milk&quot; or &quot;clog&quot; them. That happens because the chemicals they use may interfere with one another. The problem is ALWAYS caused by the DEX ones. They added new stuff to prolong the life (they started to market one coolant flush every 100.000 miles!) and that damn stabilizers is what will clog your coolant lines if you mix it with posphate and some other kinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you clog your lines, the least of your worries will be corrosion! you will melt your engine much earlier than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the only sane thing to do, as most manufacuters do not even list the contents of their coolants, is to stick with the same that's in there. And do not do that by color. Color means nothing. There are several ones that do not play along and are the same color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, i just bought a gallon of the autozone or prestone &quot;goes with everything&quot; (though they still write in small letters on the back &quot;does not go with everything, check your manual&quot;) which is orange, just to find out my car had some chrysler golden thing in there. I don't remember the names and details as it was 6mo ago, but after a small research on bob is the oil guy forums, i found out i would clog my system if i mixed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, if you mix you risk it. the chance nowadays are small. VERY small. but it's still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you love the car, write down the coolant you are using (brand and chemical contents) and use only that type.&#xA;If you have no idea what's in there, flush, put new one, and WRITE down what you used. do not believe in color. Also, refuse to buy anything that does not have a list of 'ingredients'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for the performance, they are exactly the same thing. so, if you flush before, you are safe! you will NEVER damage your car if you use only one brand, whichever it is. regardless of what the manufacturer suggest. In fact, if you don't live in cold climate, you can use only distiled water and be done with it! (you just will have to top off every hour as most of it will boil and escape the pressure valve :) so don't do it ... but you will still get ZERO rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what to do if your level is low and you have to top off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;unless it's more than a gallon, and you never did it before, use distiled water. ALWAYS. only distiled  water. It's the safest bet. your fluid now is 50/50 coolant and water. you are fine if you keep that mix from 30/50 to 70/50. so adding a gallon or so is totally fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:45:03.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6276" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:56:58.137" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto transmission uses fluid to generate torque. That puts a little less strain on the components that are actually touching. And each gear has it's own &quot;clutch&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual ones goes directly to physical contact. and there's one big clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the auto will outlast the manuals everytime. But when it finally comes time to rebuild it (remember, the clutches are in each gear) it's usually a $1000 to more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual will burn the clutch faster*. but it's $200 and an hour in the shop to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.* keep in mind this is all affected by several factors. so for one case you can have a manual lasting 150k miles and an auto lasting 50k miles... but it's two different cases that can't be compared easily. All that i said here is based on the most common designs and ignoring driving conditions/drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:56:58.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T23:55:53.227" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to connect an electrical device that runs on 12V or less voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I connect it from &lt;strong&gt;below the dashboard&lt;/strong&gt; (the lighter doesn't count, unless it has an under the hood part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3280" LastEditorUserId="3280" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T13:15:10.793" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:55:19.913" Title="Renault Fluence voltage source under dashboard" Tags="|power|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3741" CreationDate="2013-06-12T10:13:53.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you personally replaced them and aren't just talking to the service manager at the dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Bosch aren't OEM, they are of unknown spec, and likely not the correct replacement as indicated by their short life. Carefully measure the length against a plug you removed and also make sure the model number on the plug matches the model number on the Bosch box, a mix up may have occurred. Furthermore, make sure you personally check the fitment at the Bosch website and not just use what the parts guy hands to you. There is no replacement for checking this yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really sounds like you used the wrong plugs. There isn't any reason to use anything other than factory spark plugs in this car, especially since they last 150,000 miles and cost only a fraction of the Bosch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T10:13:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3336" CreationDate="2013-06-12T10:18:13.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highest heat range. The price difference is only a couple of bucks and you don't do the job often enough to worry about it. If you get one &quot;oxygen sensor safe&quot; you can reuse it throughout your exhaust system on other jobs you may have that requires antisieze compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T10:18:13.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6330" CreationDate="2013-06-12T10:50:17.477" Score="5" ViewCount="7767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an automobile enthusiast, especially for motorcycles. I don’t know much about engines practically, but I read a lot. I was reading an article at &lt;em&gt;How Stuff Works&lt;/em&gt; about the hybrid technology being used in cars and are capable of getting outstanding mileage. It states that car will use battery power for drive in range of 50 to 60 km/h but once pushed above the said limit it will use gasoline. It’s a cool idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I could somehow be able to achieve this with my motorcycle (it’s a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paksuzuki.com.pk/Automobile/GS150/main-site.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suzuki GS 150&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastEditorUserId="3282" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T06:54:22.397" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T06:54:22.397" Title="How to add hybrid technology to a 4-stroke engine motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6328" CreationDate="2013-06-12T11:01:07.903" Score="8" ViewCount="18034" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the main differences in OHC and OHV engine designs, and which is faster or more powerful? Also, which is more reliable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T16:53:02.513" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:58:40.813" Title="OHV vs. OHC: which is faster in speed, horse power?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6327" CreationDate="2013-06-12T12:08:38.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;OHC refers to overhead camshaft and OHV refers to overhead valve, two different configurations in engine design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key performance differences are described briefly in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhead_camshaft&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fundamental reason for the OHC valvetrain is that it offers an&#xA;  increase in the engines' ability to exchange induction and exhaust&#xA;  gasses. (This exchange is sometimes known as 'engine breathing'.)&#xA;  Another performance advantage is gained as a result of the better&#xA;  optimised port configurations made possible with overhead camshaft&#xA;  designs. With no intrusive pushrods, the overhead camshaft cylinder&#xA;  head design can use straighter ports of more advantageous&#xA;  crossection and length. The OHC design allows for higher engine&#xA;  speeds, which in turn will increase power output for a given&#xA;  torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So OHC can provide greater power. This does not necessarily relate directly to speed, but a reasonable assumption is that yes, you would expect it to be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOHC, or dual overhead camshaft, allows even freer gas flow so can provide even higher power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OHC is easier to maintain, as more components tend to be external to the engine block, so they can be adjusted and maintained, as well as checked for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days there are very few OHV engines anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T12:08:38.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2013-06-12T15:50:07.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to hook a high torque electric motor into your drive chain. Plus you would need some sort of computer controller to regulate whether the engine is being powered or the electric motor should be powered. Then you would want the electric motor to act as a generator to recharge the batteries while the engine is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a difficult task and not for the faint of heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T15:50:07.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2013-06-12T16:39:28.917" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting existing vehicle to a hybrid is a difficult proposition, and even more so with motorcycle due to limited space allowance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Motor and Drive-train&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a small motorcycle like that one would have to go with the wheel hub motor like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwF4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those could be fairly expensive, plus there is an additional cost of re-spoking the rim with this hub, and converting to a disc brake (since yours are drum brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More-over, this being a hybrid design, there is considerable engineering challenge of coupling and de-coupling this motor from the rest of drive-train or the motor. Possibly, there could be a clutch that disengages the hub from the rear sprocket, but then it would compromise the rigidity of the unit, as the sprocket must be securely attached to the hub to transfer power, and I am not well versed in mechanical engineering to know whether there are clutches available that would accomplish that. Again, that would also add bulk, and unsprung weight to the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, the same hub could be put onto a front wheel, and then to operate such hybrid system, one would have to manually put the gearbox in neutral before operating the electric motor. The latter requirement is a given, as the automatic switching between two modes would be prohibitively complex and expensive on such a small machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual switching, however, gives flexibility of using the electric mode in different ways: either slow-speed parking-lot cruising, or using the electric motor to maintain higher speed while the petrol engine gets the bike up to that speed (similar to the Porsche hybrid system). Either way, I would stuck with petrol propulsion for hard acceleration or heavy loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battery and Electronics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the limitations of space and weight, one would have to go with high energy density battery such as Lithium-ion, but that again would add cost. Theoretically, one could add couple automotive batteries to the rack around the rear wheel, but those are heavy and would significantly cut into the useful load of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are electronic controllers and regulators to run this system. If we settle on the manual switching between the modes of propulsion, it significantly simplifies the electronics, mechanics and controls of the system, but it still requires additional electronic equipment and wiring that needs to be placed somewhere. As an example solution to this problem, new batteries could take over the duties from the small on-board battery, which can be taken out, and its space could be used for the controllers and regulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this would be curious engineering exercise (and, possibly, good university thesis for some electrical engineering graduates), it is, in my under-informed opinion, a futile one. It is too complex, and too expensive to justify such conversion. You already have good, reliable machine that is low on the fuel consumption and decent with emissions even as it is a carburetted one. I have similar bike (Suzuki TU250X/ST250E/Volty), which has the same motor with larger cylinder, and EFI, and it gets 2.7‒2.8 l/100 km in fuel consumption when ridden conservatively, and it is a lot better than the car as personal mode of transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in electric transportation, you would be better served by converting a bicycle to electric, or buying old broken-down small motorcycle and converting it into fully-electric commuter. There are plenty information about such conversions, and it is a lot cheaper than trying to put together a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:39:28.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2013-06-12T21:53:01.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not qualified to do a mod like this, but if I were going to spend the time learning how to do it, here's what I would aim to do. Of course plans might change as I learned more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove all mechanical power transmission and hook the output of the engine directly to a generator.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use hub motors/generators like theUg described in both the front and rear wheels. The front could probably be omitted, but front-wheel-drive would be a sufficiently cool feature with regards to handling that I'd want to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you avoid the issue of having to switch between electrical drive and mechanical drive; when the engine is running, it's providing electricity for the electrical drive, and you can turn it off (preferably automatically) when the battery charge is sufficient that you won't need it for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T21:53:01.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2013-06-12T22:31:54.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A second click on the remote key fob allows you to open the trunk. Also the lock key on the front dash panel gives the same result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3284" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T22:31:54.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" Score="0" Body="Questions about general routine maintenance of a vehicle or engine." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:15:17.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding problems starting an engine. May be related to the starter system or other problems preventing the engine from running" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:17:58.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6337" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:18:56.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know what to use for your car, follow what your vehicle manufacturer has stated. If you would like to better understand what all the gobble-de-gook means, continue reading ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally there was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;crude oil&lt;/a&gt;. Black gold. Texas Tea. As crude oil, it is fairly much useless. It's the distillates which make up the usable parts. Crude oil is refined down to create lubricants and fuels through many different methods. This mainly happens by heating it and breaking it down into its usable components. Chemical engineers then take the oil and make it better. They will throw in additives to help it work better, to clean, and other such things we require of it. This type of oil is called regular oil or even &quot;dino oil&quot; (considering oil is considered to have originated from decomposing plants and animals which originated during the time of &lt;em&gt;dino&lt;/em&gt;saurs). When you look at a dino oil, it is not very consistent. When you consider an oil grade for dino oils, think of it as an &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt;. I was once given this visualization of dino oil molecules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.oOoo..oOOoOo...o.o.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Synthetic oil&lt;/a&gt; is man made. Chemical engineers take base oil stock and chemically modify it to create a lubricant which is more stable than dino oil, where operating extremes (such as high performance autos or jet engines) occur. This oil is tailored to have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties. There are many different types of synthetic oils, made many different ways. In line with the above visualization of dino oil molecules, synthetic oil molecules might look more like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ooooooooooooooooo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, there are three different categories of oil products:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Organic oil&lt;/strong&gt; - Dino oil. Regular oil. Crude oil which has been boiled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Semi-Synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; - A mix of dino oil and synthetic oil. Can also be called &lt;em&gt;synthetic blend&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;semi-synthetic&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; - Pure man-made oil (no dino oil added).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Standards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several standards in the world which pertain to oil. Some of those standards are from the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sae.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acea.be/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.api.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Petroleum Institute (API)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: These are some main ones, but there are others). To better understand what each organization's, let's break some things down for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each organization has a different indicator for their oil specification. Here are the indicators for each of the three major organizations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE - 0W, 5W, 10W, 20W, 25w, 16**, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 (NOTE: ** New SAE Standard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ACEA - A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C1, C2, C3, C4, E4, E6, E7, D9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;API - SN, SM, SL, SJ, SH, SG, SF, SE, SD, SC, SB, SA, CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF, CF-4, CE, CD-II, CD, CC, CB, CA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called the API Donut. It has two of these three service ratings listed in them and also tells whether an oil is considered &quot;Energy Conserving&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXduY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;API Dount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE1:&lt;/strong&gt; These standards can best be understood by reading through the standards body write-ups, but I will try to give a brief overview of what is important, as well as some charts which will describe them a little better than I can with a wall-of-words in this article. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE2:&lt;/strong&gt; This write-up is for motor oil. Do not confuse this with how gear or other oil is labeled, because it has a completely different standard, though some of the markings appear in the same configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with SAE because it is probably the most confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of SAE specifications have to do with the viscosity of an oil. The viscosity meaning, &lt;em&gt;what is the specific flow rate, at a specific temperature, through a specific sized orifice&lt;/em&gt;. There are two basic types of oil concerned when you are looking at the SAE specification. There is &lt;em&gt;straight weight&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;multi-viscosity&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Straight weight&lt;/strong&gt; oil does not contain modifiers which affect how the oil flows. It is denoted by a single number such as 30. A &lt;strong&gt;multi-viscosity&lt;/strong&gt; will have different flow properties depending on the temperature. It is denoted by a hyphenated number, such as 0W-20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE3:&lt;/strong&gt; Do not think of oil viscosity numbers in terms of &lt;em&gt;thicker&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;thinner&lt;/em&gt; ... Flow rate is modified by means other than the how thick or thin it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number of the two has a &quot;W&quot; following it. This indicates the &lt;em&gt;Winter&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;cold start viscosity&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of the oil (though some mistakenly think the &quot;W&quot; stands for &quot;weight&quot;). Originally this denoted the viscosity of oil when it is measured at 0degF. In 1999 this was changed due to an outbreak of engine failure due to oil jelling at low temperatures (see chart below for newer standard). The second number denotes the viscosity of the oil when measured at 100degC (or 212degF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart indicates some numbers which may or may not be useful to the average Joe, but are the specification for each of the numbers I've listed (other than 16**):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIfeL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Viscosity Grade Chart from Speednik.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the for each of the Winter designations, it is mainly concerned with &lt;em&gt;how well the oil flows at a given minimum temperature&lt;/em&gt;. Whereas the straight number has concerns on both the minimum and maximum flow rate of an oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE4:&lt;/strong&gt; 100degC (or 212degF) is used as a main reference point due to this being the approximate running temperature of an engine. It is an easy reference point to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE5:&lt;/strong&gt; Please understand that a 5W-30 and 10W-30 are still 30 grade oils and will still perform the same at a higher given temperature. The difference is their flow rate is different at the lower temperatures. This is achieved through molecular chains which open (become straight) and close (bunch up) at different temperatures. This opening and closing effect changes how the oil flows and thus effectively changes the viscosity without changing the oil grade itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; chart of which oil should be used in which temperature range (though it is my personal belief you should follow what your vehicle manufacturer's recommendation so as to not void warranties, etc):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MPb69.png&quot; alt=&quot;Viscosity chart pulled from contiteh.ru website&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicle manufacturers will give you a variance chart in your owner's manual which tells you which weight to use if you sustain higher or lower temperatures during the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ACEA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ACEA is a little easier to figure out than SAE. Their standards are broken down into three main areas: A/B; C; and E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A/B&lt;/strong&gt;: Gasoline (petrol) and Diesel Engine Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;: Catalyst Compatibility Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;: Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the write-up I pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which explains each of the individual specifications. Each of the following is a current specification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A1/B1&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3/B3&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3/B4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A5/B5&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C1&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils have the lowest SAPS limits and are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C2&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C3&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines, with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for some EGR engines and some engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E6&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for EGR engines, with or without particulate filters, and for engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E6 quality is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E7&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E9&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines with or without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and for most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E9 is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Drivers Manuals and/or Dealers should be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;API&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The API has two distinct categories. Those for gasoline engines (&lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; designation) and for diesel engines (&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt; designation). I am only going to give you the write-ups for those specifications which are current. You can look where &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I pulled them from&lt;/a&gt; to get the rest if you are so inclined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SN&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced in October 2010&lt;/em&gt; Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conservingmatches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control systemcompatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SM&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced on 30 November 2004&lt;/em&gt; Category SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and SL earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SL&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;2001 Gasoline Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; Category SL was adopted to describe engine oils for use in 2001. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, sports utility vehicles, vans and light trucks operating under vehicle manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SL requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SJ&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;1997 Gasoline Engine&lt;/em&gt; Service Category SJ was adopted in 1996 to describe engine oil first mandated in 1997. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, vans, and light trucks operating under manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SH requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SH and earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CJ-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Current - 2006&lt;/em&gt; Introduced in 2006 for high-speed four-stroke engines. Designed to meet 2007 on-highway exhaust emission standards. CJ-4 oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulphur content up to 500ppm (0.05% by weight). However, use of these oils with greater than 15ppm sulfur fuel may impact exhaust after treatment system durability and/or oil drain intervals. CJ-4 oils are effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced after treatment systems are used. CJ-4 oils exceed the performance criteria of CF-4, C-4, AH-4 and C-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CI-4 Plus&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Current - 2004&lt;/em&gt; Used in conjunction with API C-4, the &quot; CI-4 PLUS&quot; designation identifies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related viscosity increase and viscosity loss due to shear in diesel engines. Like Energy Conserving, CI-4 PLUS appears in the lower portion of the API Service Symbol &quot;Donut.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CI-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; The CI-4 performance requirements describe oils for use in those high speed, four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards, to be implemented October 2002. These oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.05% by weight. These oils are especially effective at sustaining engine durability where Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and other exhaust emission componentry may be used. Optimum protection is provided for control of corrosive wear tendencies, low and high temperature stability, soot handling properties, piston deposit control, valve train wear, oxidative thickening, foaming and viscosity loss due to shear. CI-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CH-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; This service oils are suitable for high speed, four-stroke diesel engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards and are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. CH-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CF-4 and API CG-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:49:31.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:49:31.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:18:56.430" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for anything related to the use of automotive engine oil, or in reference to other parts of the car that also require lubrication using oil." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T13:48:33.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T13:48:33.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6339" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:20:29.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an answer that contains some great information right that explains &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24329/14003&quot;&gt;how to read those confusing markings on the sides of car tires&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not quite sure how much air to put in your tires, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24363/14003&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource to have a look at!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5n3D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5n3D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:48:37.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:48:37.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:20:29.330" Score="0" Body="A petroleum based rubber mounted on the wheels of vehicles to provide a higher friction coefficient between a vehicle and a road surface." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T16:08:09.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:08:09.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:26:31.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple And Technical Definition Of Coolant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a technician's standpoint &quot;engine coolant&quot; would be referring to the 50/50 mix of ethylene/polypropylene glycol and water. From an engineers standpoint engine coolant would &lt;strong&gt;technically&lt;/strong&gt; be anything that assists the system in the cooling process. So, in this case you could refer to the fans, oil, and Anti-freeze (The 50/50 mix) as &quot;coolant&quot;. By definition coolant is any liquid or gas that can be utilized to maintain a desired temperature for any situation needed. Technically &quot;air&quot; is a gas of sorts. Fans moving air in a manner that would cool down your engine bay, could be considered a coolant. Not to get to technical, but you asked =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your average Joe says coolant, they mean the Anti-freeze (50/50 Mix stated above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost every car made from the early 60's, you have pumps for the propulsion of various fluids.&#xA;The two main pumps are &quot;water pumps&quot; and &quot;oil pumps&quot;. The water pump moves the coolant throughout the engine block, head, and air conditioning heating system. The oil pump moves oil throughout the engine block and head to provide lubrication, cleaning and sometimes pressure to certain internal components that may need it. These systems typically do &quot;Loop&quot;. The most common return for oil passages are held within the head. The oil pools up just enough to reach holes that take it back to the bottom of the engine. Coolant typically runs on a circuit as well. How these are routed is very specific to the engine manufacturer. 99 percent of the time you have one oil pump and one water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Dispersion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that your engine Anti-freeze does the majority of work. The reason is because the rate at which it circulates is far quicker than oil. It also has its own cooling assistance (The radiator). The entire system by nature is designed to handle the brunt of the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil does its part as well, but in a bit of a different way. Oil keeps the system cool by minimizing friction. The less friction, the less heat. As a fluid substance it has a good amount of potential to release heat, so it does that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air as explained above carries its purposes. Most manufactures use the grill or face of the car to route air into the radiator and engine bay. They also use air spoilers to route air into the engine bay. The ambient temperature at which an engine &quot;lives&quot; is actually very impacting on how well the engine can stay at its desired temperature. Not all engines do this though, it depends on the rate at which the engine turns and it's stresses. &#xA;Hope this helps you understand a bit better, and I hope I answered your question well enough =)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T10:47:40.923" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T10:47:40.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:26:31.073" Score="0" Body="An alcohol based fluid that is miscible in water and used to remove heat from the engine. Also see the [cooling-system] tag for related components such as the radiator and water-pump." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T10:47:33.523" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T10:47:33.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" Score="0" Body="spark plugs are used to ignite the fuel-air mixture in a petrol/gasoline engine." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T09:27:36.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:28:55.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru (スバル) (/ˈsuːbəruː/ or /sʊˈbɑːruː/) is the automobile manufacturing division of Japanese transportation conglomerate Subaru Corporation (formerly known as Fuji Heavy Industries), the twenty-second largest automaker by production worldwide in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subaru cars are known for their use of a boxer engine layout in most vehicles above 1500 cc. Most Subaru models have used the Symmetrical All Wheel Drive drive-train layout since 1972. The flat/boxer engine and all-wheel-drive became standard equipment for mid-size and smaller cars in most international markets by 1996, and is now standard in most North American market Subaru vehicles. The lone exception is the BRZ, introduced in 2012, which uses the boxer engine but instead uses a rear-wheel-drive structure. Subaru also offers turbocharged versions of their passenger cars, such as the Impreza WRX and the Legacy 2.5GT. The 2.0XT trim of the Forester also includes a turbocharged engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia.org's Subaru Wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_engines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;List of Subaru Engines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars101.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cars101.com&lt;/a&gt; - A great resource for Subaru research! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.nasioc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;North America Subaru Impreza Owners Club (NASIOC) Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://subaruforester.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Subaru Forester Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/28368-2005-2009-outback-suspension-faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;05-09 Outback Suspension FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2239019&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Master Thread of Subaru OEM Wheel Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="36332" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T14:47:53.023" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:47:53.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-13T09:28:55.833" Score="0" Body="Japanese auto-maker well known for its 4-wheel-drive models and boxer engines. " OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T00:02:10.497" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T00:02:10.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6296" CreationDate="2013-06-13T12:00:47.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Megane Mk1 has a coil pack per spark plug - they sit in the engine block just above the plugs themselves. One of the coil packs may be faulty causing intermittent spark at the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2463" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T12:00:47.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6350" CreationDate="2013-06-13T15:09:06.303" Score="2" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery of the vehicle which is working fine before servicing at an authorized dealer, suddenly stops working a day after bringing the vehicle back from the service center.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've faced a problem with my car which was being used regularly and had a battery which was a year old. My mom also faced a problem where her &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TVS_Scooty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike&lt;/a&gt; which was being used regularly and the battery was two years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is is possible that a battery that works fine, stops working immediately after servicing? Could it be that the people at the service center replaced it with an old battery or tampered with it? There seem to be some instances &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumercomplaints.in/complaints/maruti-suzuki-nagpur-maharashtra-c382358.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/maruti-alto-c34440.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I thought I'd ask here if there could be some other reason for a battery to fail suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T13:30:32.530" Title="Battery does not work after servicing?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6348" CreationDate="2013-06-13T17:51:46.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything is possible and it will be hard to tell what actually happened or whether the incident is just coincidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving a door open or key in during a long service could drain the battery and if the battery is old or on its last legs then this could finish it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check to make sure the battery cables are properly tightened maybe they didn't reconnect it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the battery is completely dead or is it just discharged. Either let the car idle for 20-30 minutes or put a battery charger on it and let it set for a few hours to see whether it was just a bit low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T17:51:46.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6354" CreationDate="2013-06-14T11:09:05.353" Score="5" ViewCount="233907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Ford Mondeo 2004 but I forgot about the radio code. After unplugging the battery the radio now requires code and is locked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have now? Is it in essence possible to unlock a radio without a code? Are the codes freely available? Should I contact the manufacturer? I tried to google but found lots of crap, deceit and even a malware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1779" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T13:32:36.943" Title="Is unlocking radio without code possible?" Tags="|ford|audio|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6360" CreationDate="2013-06-14T12:01:48.433" Score="6" ViewCount="2749" Body="&lt;p&gt;KTM Duke 200 which has an engine of 200 cc, and, on the other hand, Royal Enfield Bullet 350 with a 345 cc engine. I.e. Enfield has 150 cc more than the Duke. But KTM produces 25 BHP of power, whereas Enfield only 19 BHP. How is it so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Form WikiPedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine’s horsepower before the loss in power caused by the gearbox, alternator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it’s not gear box or final drive that makes it more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3292" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T18:25:49.520" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:23:20.060" Title="Larger cylinder volume, but less power, how?" Tags="|motorcycle|power|ktm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6351" CreationDate="2013-06-14T12:08:05.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford dealer can do it by using your vehicle serial number, I have no idea what they charge for the service. If you are a regular customer they may be nice and do it for free. An alternative is to remove the radio get the serial number off the radio and use one of the on-line services that provide access codes. If you aren't comfortable removing the radio the dealer may be the best choice. My advice after this is to leave the radio uncoded as the odds of a ten year old radio being stolen are pretty slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T12:08:05.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2013-06-14T14:13:53.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A difference in design and efficiency.  More BHP can be made with less torque simply by spinning it up to a higher RPM.  Torque has a much greater correlation to engine size than BHP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 cylinder, 540cid Lycoming IO-540 makes 300 BHP @ 2700 RPM.  It requires something in the area of 600 lb-ft of torque to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MUCH smaller 4 cylinder, 122cid Mitsubishi 4g63 turbocharged engine makes an estimated 365 bhp (measured 292 whp at the wheels, with an estimated 25% loss with the current transmission), but it does it with just 384 lb-ft (estimated at the crank) of torque due to the higher RPMs the engine runs at (will run up to 8000 RPMs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T14:44:35.200" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T14:44:35.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6358" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:21:32.317" Score="8" ViewCount="21325" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a few days ago my 2003 Honda Civic EX started misfiring while accelerating, especially with the A/C turned on, making popping noises, and then yesterday got a P1259 &quot;VTEC system malfunction code&quot;.  Web forums said to check the oil level, so I did and the dipstick was completely dry.  Oops.  Apparently I have a problem with leaking or burning oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, after refilling the oil and clearing the code, it's working fine.  No misfires even if I floor it with the A/C on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand this better, though.   How does low oil level cause these problems?  Was it bad enough to damage the engine?  Should I be on the lookout for related problems now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T14:14:44.950" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T15:49:09.310" Title="How does low oil level cause misfires or VTEC malfunctions?" Tags="|oil|oil-leak|misfire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6357" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:44:41.900" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I observed this same situation in my 1997 Integra back in the day.  If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC#Context.2C_and_description&quot;&gt;summary on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, you can see why the oil pressure is critical to VTEC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the switch point a solenoid is actuated which allows oil pressure&#xA;  from a spool valve to operate a locking pin which binds the high RPM&#xA;  cam follower to the low RPM ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, without sufficient oil pressure, the VTEC system can't execute the shift from low rev to high rev cam lobes.  Now, as you observe, the VTEC issue is a later symptom indicating low oil so my advice is not to wait until you see that code before you check the oil....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T19:44:41.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-14T20:13:16.727" Score="6" ViewCount="27060" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 3.8L V6 engine (3800 Series).  I've been doing my research and due diligence, but please understand I'm very inexperienced with automobiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Autozone and the reading I got from the OBD II tool was a P0171 error code.  A lean or rich condition on Bank 1.  First, I don't know where Bank 1 is.  I have a feeling it's a cracked intake-manifold, an intake-manifold gasket leak, or both.  But let's assume I have no clue where the vacuum leak is coming from.  And I don't want to use a carb cleaner -- I read that I could cause a fire and I don't think I'm experienced enough to use something like that.   I'd prefer to err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen on youtube a long-time mechanic who uses a cigar as a cheap alternative to a smoke test machine.  But I'm not sure if something like that could be used if you have no idea where the leak is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask those who are far, far more experienced than me.  What ares some methods I can use if I have a vacuum leak, but I literally don't have a clue where it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3296" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:38:46.840" Title="How do I find a vacuum leak? I'd highly prefer not to use a carb cleaner spray" Tags="|engine|oil|coolant|leak|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2013-06-14T21:29:54.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two sides to the design and efficiency coin. As a rule of thumb, more modern motors would have better characteristics due to general improvements in manufacturing (machining tolerances are smaller, for instance), and engineering. Liquid-cooled motors are more efficient, as a rule, than air-cooled, and so forth. However, there are also other considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have a 250 cc standard motorcycle (Suzuki TU250X). It uses the same basic engine that Suzuki used on its small DR dual-sports, GN standards, and GZ cruisers since early 80s. However, for the new fuel-injected version that Suzuki introduced in the last few years, the newly re-designed top end (cylinder and head) caused it to make less horse-power than earlier carburetted versions (16 v. 20). Why so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple factors for such re-design. First of all, the amount of valves were reduced from four to two. Obviously, it would reduce power, because the more, and the bigger the valves, the more air-fuel mixture can be brought in and out. However, the less valves means less maintenance. And for a commuter motorcycle, fuel economy was more important than sheer power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design of the valve openings and cam shaft was also rethought to produce more useful power band for this motorcycle. Having high theoretical horsepower does not mean that that power is readily available. Small sport-bikes and sport-like bikes like Duke, CBR250R or Ninja 250 capable of a lot more horsepower (25‒27 in stock form), however that horsepower is available at high RMP (8000‒10 000 or thereabouts), and in regular street riding it is never achieved, unless some one races by overreving the motor on lower gears. TU250X engine is designed to give mild and more even power band, that does not peak as high, but allows more useful power and torque at lower RPM one would use most often in regular urban traffic. As a result, this bike would not win any races and it takes awhile to get up to high speed (though people pushed it past 135 km/h (85 mph) while drafting), but it is a very capable commuter and easily allows over 200 kg of useful load (rider, passenger, and some gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, Bullet 350 affected by two of these factors: it has very old engine that harkens from 1950s, and it is a standard motorcycle workhorse that is designed for commuting, and not racing. Even the brand new RE 500 cc unit-construction engine with EFI is not that powerful for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T21:29:54.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6359" CreationDate="2013-06-15T05:43:19.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bank 1&lt;/strong&gt; on your 3800 Series II Engine would be the set of cylinders that is closer to the front bumper of the vehicle (cylinders 1, 3, 5). Bank 2 (cylinders 2, 4, 6) would be against the firewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Leak&lt;/strong&gt;... Any vacuum-leak hunt shouldn't start without having a clear vacuum-hose diagram in-hand. There should be one on a placard inside the engine bay (possibly in the radiator mount area or the underside of the hood). Here's what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle does NOT have a supercharger then the vacuum system should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXqJL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle was equipted with a super charger then it should resemble the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnYiu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this map to trace every vacuum line. Even if you cannot see the mall you should be able to feel them from start to finish to make sure they are connected at each end and do not feel fray'd or brittle or damaged in any way. When vacuum lines become &quot;old&quot; you can twist them in your hands and they'll being to break apart. You could also bend/kink them and they'll show cracks and signs of dryness. This means it's time to replace them. Remember that a lot of small leaks will have the same effect as a large leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cigar trick actually works since a cigar has a very thick smoke. Also a fireextinguisher would work, but could get rather messy if you mess it up. You could also check differnet areas with a vacuum pump and pinch off areas to test sections at a time. But this could also get a bit trcky if you're not familiar with the system and don't know what you should be pinching off at what times. Either way any of the &quot;quick&quot; methods stated are all very &quot;hackish&quot; and nothing to be considered as &quot;good practice&quot;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vacuum leak is one of those issues that no mechanic loves to diagnose. It's usually either diagnoses in 10 seconds or it turns into quite the migraine. I'm sure that most mechanics would have to agree with me that in order to properlly diagnose an issue like this it must be done correctly and without any short cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always attacked issues like these with a smoke tester. I have 3 of them personally. Even if the leak is obvious I will still smoke the vacuum system before and after the repair to ensure that there are no other obvious leaks. This will ensure that the vehicles doesn't come back with the same issue &amp;amp; the same cause. If the vehicle was to return without any leaks then it's time to look at one way check valves and switch-over valves that would cause internal leaks in the system. But, that's a whole other story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check the hoses thoroughly, and if everything checks out. Then it's time to bring it to a reputable shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T15:22:06.690" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T15:22:06.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-15T21:14:42.767" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be on topic here, so I'm going to ask it:&#xA;If a car was hit by another one and responders needed access to it, what key parts should they be aware of the location when entering the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:40:49.753" Title="What key parts of a car should responders know about?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6366" CreationDate="2013-06-16T01:17:31.557" Score="7" ViewCount="22670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to take off the manifold bolts on an old Chevy 350 (the ones that connect the manifold to the header). I got 4 out of the 6 bolts out, but 2 are extremely struck and rounded due to all the rust. I actually broke my 14mm socket trying to remove it with a breaker bar. Now, after trying so many times, the bolts are rounded so much that I can put a 13mm wrench on, and it too will slip sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do I do now? I can't drive the vehicle to a shop because of a bad exhaust leak, so I don't have many options other than to solve this problem myself. PB blaster seems to be ineffective (although I have been applying more everyday), since the threads are very deep and the bolts are rusted on extremely tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I have to cut off the bolt head, take the manifold off, then worry about the stud later? What would be the cheapest way to cut the head off? (I don't have grinders or power tools...unless those are the only ways)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering what you guys think is the next step for me. Space is limited around the bolts... thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T05:58:55.527" Title="Remove rounded manifold bolt" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|exhaust|tools|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2013-06-16T01:47:33.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not the most effective there are several things you can try on a limited tool budget. If you have access to a propane torch (the type used by DIY plumbers) get a cylinder of MAPP gas. It doesn't make as much heat as an Oxy/Acet torch but is hotter than propane. Heat the manifold in the area of one stud as hot as you can get it, then try to back the stud out. If that doesn't work you can try a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut stud. If the pipe going to the manifold is going to be replaced cut the pipe with a Sawz-All or last resort a hack saw. Remove the manifold with the short piece of pipe. Bring every thing to a local garage or muffler shop and see if they can get them out for you. Although it is late in the year contact a local vocational school and see if they are interested in helping you .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T01:47:33.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-16T17:08:19.600" Score="2" ViewCount="1175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me to find out where this grinding metallic noise comes from? Transmision fault? Bearing gone? or what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how it sounds - &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/YGAeINSTtrQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/YGAeINSTtrQ&lt;/a&gt; . The first part is when the engine is in charge with the hand brake on and the second part is on the move with that noise coming constantly only when in 3rd gear at about 2200-2300 RPM, can hear the noise in 2nd 4th and 5th gear only when trying to drive with constant speed and in a gear too high for the actual speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any answers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3300" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T09:00:27.767" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T17:28:42.713" Title="Grinding noise on transmision on a Ford Focus 1.4 i Zetec - 2002" Tags="|ford|transmission|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2013-06-16T19:24:09.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem removing the exhaust manifold on my Civic.  If you're confident you can find replacements for whatever you're going to tear up, just get a Dremel and use it. You'll spend as much on other methods as you would buying a Dremel anyway, so the only question is whether your time is worth more than the parts you'll have to replace after ruining them, and the answer is usually yes. Go with the smallest model because it's cheap (well under $50) but still works fine and can get in small places larger tools can't. Metal cutting blades are best, but I was working in a tight space and didn't have a vehicle available to go out and buy any at the time, so I got by using a grinding bit and grinding the whole nut and stud away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T19:24:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-16T21:30:48.910" Score="3" ViewCount="10406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is bad for a pickup truck to keep a heavy load in the back (e.g. 1800 lbs) for prolonged periods of time (e.g. 2-3 days), assuming the truck is not in motion.  The disadvantage of driving with that load are obvious, my question refers to being stationary.  E.g. is it bad for suspension, chassis, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T15:42:32.990" Title="Leaving heavy load on the back of a pickup truck" Tags="|suspension|truck|chassis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6372" CreationDate="2013-06-17T01:56:15.690" Score="7" ViewCount="103882" Body="&lt;p&gt;The content is pretty much contained in the title. When I went to replace the brake pads, one pad was completely gone and the other was almost like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I have replaced the pads, the wheel heats up quickly when driving even short distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did notice that one of the guide pins seemed stuck - it did not move at all. Could this be the cause of the heat, and if so, what do I need to replace? Just the pins, or the caliper bracket as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastActivityDate="2021-09-14T12:18:01.717" Title="Replaced brake pads - one pad was full, the other was gone. Brakes now very hot after driving" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|heat|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6368" CreationDate="2013-06-17T05:58:57.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the brake piston fully compressed the pads should have a little clearance, enabling minor &quot;play.&quot; When replacing brake pads it is important to make sure that the caliper itself moves freely in the horizontal direction (i.e., perpendicularly to the disc.) If not, one pad will wear quickly due to the fact that it will maintain pressure against the rotating disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that stuck guide pins can yield a similar result, but your best bet - considering that your brakes are getting hot - is probably to remove the pads and make sure that all moving parts are ... moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T05:58:57.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6368" CreationDate="2013-06-17T08:42:45.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When replacing break pads it is incorrect and bad practice to simply push the piston back in, this will force brake back up into the master cylinder and sometimes even cause it to overflow. Just about everyone disregards this but it is very possible to damage the Master Cylinder this way. The &quot;correct&quot; way to do it is to open the bleeder screw, push the piston in (use a rubber hose &amp;amp; bottle to avoid making a mess), then close the bleeder screw. This will allow you to easily reset the piston. Also, this will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; require that you bleed the brakes since you did not let any air into the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, using a wirebrush all slides and pins should be cleaned and then lubed. If the slides / pins are readily available or are included with the brake pads then it's recommended to replace them. Seeing that you were able to install the pads I'm going to say it's safe to rule out an issue with the caliper. I would take both sides apart and clean the slides / guide pins and calipers with a wirebrush and some Brake Cleaner. Then using some anti-seize lube all contact points between the caliper, slides, guide pins, and brake pads. This will ensure that there is unrestricted movement in the entire assembly. If the symptoms continue after you've done this let me know and I can help you start to look deeper into the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not drive the vehicle while it is like this. It's not only unsafe but it will further damage the braking system. If you have no choice then you have no choice but, try to keep it to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T08:42:45.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6362" CreationDate="2013-06-17T09:04:23.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airbags if they were not deployed during the accident&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll sometimes see the emergency teams disconnect the battery and wait ~15-20 minutes before beginning to cut into the vehicle. This is to ensure that there is no power going to the airbags.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles, i.e. Hybrid, come with additional accessory batteries and high voltage batteries. These sometimes are not stored in the obvious locations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Lines and also auxilary fuel tanks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the team only has the &quot;Jaws of Life&quot; then they would not be able to cut through sections made of High Strength Steel.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker Panels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A/B/C-Pillars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roof Beams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Side Impact Beams, basically any main structural support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T09:40:49.753" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:40:49.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6368" CreationDate="2013-06-17T09:21:37.763" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your guide pins are stuck, the caliper won't be able to slide properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a sliding caliper, when you apply the brake, the piston pushes one pad against the disc (rotor), and simultaneously pushes back against the caliper (Newton's equal and opposite reactions), causing the caliper to slide along the guide pins, and pull the other pad against the disc. If the caliper cannot slide, the second pad remains forced against the disc, and you're effectively driving with half the brakes on on that wheel, hence why it gets hot. You'll find that if you jack up the the car, that wheel is much harder to turn than the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the caliper, and both guide pins. Clean them up until they both slide freely, re-grease and reassemble, using new gaiters if the old ones are damaged (which is quite likely, as that's the usual reason for them siezing). Do the same on the other side so that you know both calipers are in the same condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:21:37.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6351" CreationDate="2013-06-17T09:29:45.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky these are sometimes hand written inside the owners manual or on a a business card that says &quot;radio code&quot; on it that's placed inside the document holder that was supplied with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People are also known to write it on the top/bottom of the actual radio itself. This would require removing the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealerships can usually access this information by the VIN number. If not then they'll pull the radio for you and use the Serial Number on the Radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's simply just the dealership looking it up via the VIN number then there should be no charge and can usually be done over the phone. If it requires pulling the radio, then I would imagine it's a flat fee which is somewhere around a half an hour labor. ~30-40 dollars is an average of what I see in Los Angeles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:29:45.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6362" CreationDate="2013-06-17T09:39:59.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd have thought it'd be anything that could cause a fire/explosion - Airbags, batteries and fuel tanks/lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you're going to want to do is cut off the fuel supply. On most cars, this is done off the ignition key, so that'd be your first target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention whether you're talking about standard or modified cars - it's an easier question to answer with standard vehicles, as such locations can be readily identified in advance, and tend to be fairly predictable, wheras in a modified vehicle they might not be in the expected locations (for example, batteries might be located in the back of the car for improved weight distribution). Of course, if the vehicle was modified for competition use, there are strict rules regarding such components, including clearly marking the locations of battery cut-off switches and extinguisher triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:39:59.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6367" CreationDate="2013-06-17T10:31:56.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct answer will depend on the size of the truck.  As long as you have not exceeded the load capacity of the chassis you should be fine. However the longer the springs are the compressed to their maximum deflection the less likely they are to return to their unloaded shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T10:31:56.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-17T15:11:16.917" Score="4" ViewCount="7393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my Golf for 8 years. It’s had good maintenance and a the record is kept by my dad. It’s just passed its MOT (Ministry of Transportation) test, and the mechanic mentioned that the tappets were sounding a little loud, so my dad who services and does work on my car flushed something through the oil and did an oil change afterwards to see if it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was quieter for a few days after, but is it a coincidence that when I start the engine I now get juddering, and also grey smoke from the exhaust until the engine had warmed up properly? My dad is a good mechanic and he is mystified by the smoking, and now considering if the engine is on its way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T00:17:26.020" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T06:00:41.633" Title="2000 VW Golf TDi (Mk. 4) grey smoke from exhaust before engine has warmed up" Tags="|engine|vw|exhaust|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6376" CreationDate="2013-06-17T17:26:53.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Juddering&quot; is as good a description as any of how a diesel runs when not all cylinders are firing.  Gray smoke from the exhaust is unburned fuel (i.e., it has been injected into a cylinder, mixed with air, but not burnt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Golf is new enough to have a catalyst (many VW diesels are), then unburned fuel in the exhaust will quickly damage it, so you want to fix this.  However, it's much too early to give up on the engine!  Most likely, one or more of your glow plugs have failed (so they don't heat up the cylinders and promote ignition when the engine is cold), or the system that turns them on at cold start is malfunctioning.  I can't give more details without knowing how old the car is--on older diesels ('80s VWs and Mercedes, for instance) there is a simple relay that can easily be tested, while on newer ones (VW TDIs, for instance) the glow cycle is computer-controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If you can rule out the glow plugs, there are a number of other less likely possibilities.  Anything that restricts fuel or air flow on a diesel engine can cause incomplete combustion (and hence, again, gray smoke).   This would include clogged fuel or air filters, for instance.  The fact that your car is a 2000, though, makes me think of one particular common problem with VW TDI engines from 1999-2003 or so: soot buildup in the EGR system.  Fixing this requires removing the EGR valve and intake manifold and soaking them in solvent to clean out the soot.  It is a simple job but time-consuming (and therefore expensive if you have to pay someone else to do it, unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T21:56:13.703" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T21:56:13.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-17T20:46:42.467" Score="1" ViewCount="11759" Body="&lt;p&gt;150k miles 2.0l gas mkIV Jetta, 5-speed manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Braking at speeds of around 40mph down to 20mph there is shake in steering and overall jerky stopping.  If slight steering is added(say gentle off-ramp-turn) fairly loud wobbling(best I can describe, pretty much whole car shakes) can be heard and felt.  I'm also hearing a clunk noise from the front when car weight is shifted during a 90degree turn. This is guaranteed to happen when pulling into a drive-way with a gutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front brake rotors changed less than two years ago(maybe 15k miles), alas the pads were almost brand-new and weren't changed at the same time.  This solved a very similar vibration in steering wheel when braking, I assumed previous rotors were warped. Tires are brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could assume that the new rotors are already warped and change those again along with pads.  What is bothering me is the steering input multiplying the issue to such a great extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must add that in the past few months the ABS light has been coming on only after reaching 20mph.  Light is not on after starting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the suspension is factory. 12years old(I know right)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal vehicle maintenance experience only includes simple jobs: brakes, oil changes, coolant flange, any work that doesn't require specialized knowledge/tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushings? Mounts? Control arms? Master cylinder? Wheel speed sensor?&#xA;Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3305" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T20:42:07.233" Title="Shake while braking at certain speeds, intensified with steering input" Tags="|suspension|vw|steering|braking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2013-06-17T22:03:17.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First stop driving it, it is potentially an accident waiting to happen. Any shaking, banging, wobbling etc should be addressed immediately. A couple of things come to mind. A bad wheel bearing can cause all the symptoms you describe along with an intermittent ABS light if the bearing has enough play in it (the hub wiggles enough to move the rotor away from the ABS sensor). A really bad CV joint could cause some of the symptoms as well as loose lug nuts. Any of the things you suggested may also be combining to create your symptoms. The most important thing is to have someone check it before something fails completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T22:03:17.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2013-06-18T12:38:28.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Listen to Mikes' answer. If it was just the vibration while braking I'd say more than likely a rotor (reusing a pad pair can cause a new rotor to warp). However I think you might have one or more likely a combination of things listed above wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice is Mikes' last sentence. However, if you want or need to do this yourself, have someone check it out so you know where to start. Then buy a Haines or Chiltons manual for your car and dig in. As you begin repairing things, double check everything as you go. For example if the shop says it's a CV joint check the wheel bearing for play while disassembling everything to get to the CV joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T12:38:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6383" CreationDate="2013-06-18T15:08:12.693" Score="6" ViewCount="29535" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I own a Mk5 Astra SRi, however I am looking to sell this and buy a Ford Focus Mk2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I looked at a Ford Focus Zetec Mk2. My understanding is that Zetec is sort of the ford equivalent of an Astra SRi (given that ST is the equivalent of a VXR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that really threw a spanner in the works for me was the drum brakes on the back wheels. I had a look around and found that the latest two models of VW Polo have discs, as do Golf's from Mk4 onwards, as do most Seat Leons, and even Prius's!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why on earth would a reputable company still fit this ancient technology, when most modern cars are using rear disc brakes? And, how much of an impact do drum brakes have in comparison to disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T00:15:56.977" Title="Why are drum brakes still fitted on Ford's cars?" Tags="|ford|brakes|focus|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2013-06-18T16:58:47.770" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom &amp;amp; Ray point out that drum brakes can serve &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/content/why-do-manufacturers-still-use-drum-brakes-find-out&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;double-duty as the parking brake&lt;/a&gt;.  Other people around the web believe it has to do with retooling costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T16:58:47.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2013-06-18T18:00:55.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drum brakes are cheaper to manufacture than disc brakes, because there are fewer moving parts and because in the rear the parking brake (which often works by a drum-and-shoe mechanism even on four-wheel-disc-equipped cars) can share a drum with the &quot;regular&quot; brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal, discs work better than drums, especially in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in this case, in regular driving you will very likely never notice a difference.  Most of the braking effort, even in a panic stop, comes from the front wheels.  So front discs are much better than front drums, but rear drums are not much worse than rear discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T22:14:12.787" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T22:14:12.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-18T20:51:55.267" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a Curt hitch on my jeep wrangler.  It is perfect, but I want to mount a 7-pin wiring harness via drop-down bracket.  Is it safe to drill and tap the main bar that goes across the back of the jeep?  I feel like it is sort of sketchy to drill the main bar for the hitch, but if I fill the holes with hardened bolts (probably 1/4-20) would this still be safe to tow with at the maximum capacity (4000lbf)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T21:29:45.843" Title="Is it safe to mount a wire bracket to a hitch?" Tags="|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2013-06-19T02:56:00.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found 2003 and 2005 manuals online. It says that the central locking switch on the dash unlocks all three doors. Once unlocked, you should be able to push the button in the outside door handle, which is the lip above the license/number plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of an electrical malfunction, you can lift the base of the rear seat, and there is a ring on a cable you can pull to release it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the google search I used: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=%22Congratulations+on+your+new+mini%22+2009+mini+%22owner%27s+manual%22+%2Bfiletype%3Apdf&quot;&gt;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=%22Congratulations+on+your+new+mini%22+2009+mini+%22owner%27s+manual%22+%2Bfiletype%3Apdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that once I found the &quot;congratulations...&quot; phrase they put in other model years of their manuals, I added that literal expression to the google search. This narrowed the result to one page, which included versions up through 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T02:56:00.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T06:38:00.673" Score="1" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been recently told that thieves these days are using your car VIN to steal cars by ordering your car key replica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct, because my VIN and most of the new cars is visible on the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guide or guidance is greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="541" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:42:40.923" Title="Can VIN number be used to steal cars?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2013-06-19T10:53:12.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, but this need access to the constructor network and to his special hardware key encoder(..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T10:53:12.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2013-06-19T11:16:03.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the previous owner of the car adjusted the wastegate actuator in an attempt to increase boost pressure. The sudden loss of boost came about because the ECU forced the wastegate open in an attempt to keep the manifold attached to the engine ;) Kudos to whomever wrote the software for the Bosch Motronics unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T11:16:03.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2013-06-19T11:23:54.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear brakes hardly contribute to stopping your car. They do between 20% and 30% of the work, so they can be cheap without compromising your safety or stopping distance. Mind you, drum brakes last much MUCH longer than discs. I have a Vauxhall Corsa B that has done 100k miles (160k kilometers) and the drums and shoes are still good for at least another 50% of that distance. See it as Ford saving you money. If you want to increase your braking performance, spend some extra money on pads and rotors up front the next time you have to change them. And stay away from slotted and cross-drilled rotors if you don't do lots of high speed stops. A smooth rotor has a larger contact area, so gives better stopping performance in normal conditions. Slotted and drilled rotors are a compromise between performance and better cooling characteristics for sport and track applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T11:23:54.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6351" CreationDate="2013-06-19T11:30:18.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the time, you could always try brute-forcing it. There are 10000 possible combinations if it's a 4 digit code, but if you take some liberties, like starting at 7000, you might get lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the best solution, but it certainly IS one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T11:30:18.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2013-06-19T12:08:57.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides being cheap to manufacture, lighter, being easier to use as a parking brake, and being of limited usefulness on a front engine car to begin with...  Drum brakes also have the advantage of being &quot;no drag&quot;.  When they're off, they're completely off.  Compare to disc brakes where there can still be a little bit of drag as there's no mechanism to pull the pads off the disc when not under braking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a common thing for drag race cars that come with disc brakes to have them removed and replaced with drums for the weight and drag reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T12:08:57.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2013-06-19T13:52:24.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use a hammer, on the backside without knocking the axle.. In same time put a (long) iron bar for maintening down, and knock with medium force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it don't come, don't hurt you or the car, disassemble all the front half axle, this is quick and will be easy to dissasemble into separates parts when this is not under pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually not necessary but sometimes better, not really longer.with good tools, and it is preferable to never force if you work alone, so the second solution could be better, depending of the context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastEditorDisplayName="user3312" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T13:59:41.783" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T13:59:41.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2013-06-19T14:14:20.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before cutting it I think you should try a grip-tite product like the sockets or box wrenches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you weren't using a box wrench before you should always use them for breaking loose stuck bolts because they contact more surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T14:14:20.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2013-06-19T18:31:34.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, people with access to the dealer computer network can do it, but they'll normally be tracked by login (in case they become a suspect).  They're supposed to verify ownership before supplying keys to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T18:31:34.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4832" CreationDate="2013-06-19T18:55:55.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sure this kind of transformation is possible, but you need to take a lots of parts like the gear selector, gearbox stand, probably the two drive shafts(..) from a used Micra with the same engine. This need a good mechanic and the good used Micra, this will be not easy depending of your country or region, and expensive if you buy all parts somewhere on the internet. (Try Switzerland by phone for Japanese car..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing gearbox by another is ok for technicals checks, but you cannot change the engine for a bigger one, it needs to stay the same, regarding to the registration document, and you have to stay with a manual gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I know it's hard to hear, but this is probably the end for your tiny Micra, there are too many cars at so low price on the used market this will cost you probably much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T09:58:45.287" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T09:58:45.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4009" CreationDate="2013-06-19T20:02:18.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is somewhere behind the gloves box.&#xA;This is not hard to do: (Photos extract from a foreigner language)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArfRZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://up.autotitre.com/mini/06117549b3.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push on clips marqued green, unmount the plastic cover by pulling it to the right, hold it at the red point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMDwT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is two filters, you need to extract them one by one, they have a special position, you got to fold it a bit for enter them, this is normal (!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFpkM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastEditorDisplayName="user3312" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T20:07:59.980" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T20:07:59.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6384" CreationDate="2013-06-19T20:57:10.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the Curt hitch looks like on your Jeep, it's capacities, or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if the hitch is made of 2-inch square tubing, you can safely drill a 1/4-20 hole in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill through the center of the square tubing, though - don't try to get crazy and drill long ways through a full side of the tubing. That would obviously compromise the strength of your tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to keep the Jeep and hitch for a long time, hitting the exposed metal parts with a little bit of paint will prevent it from rusting faster than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T20:57:10.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6405" CreationDate="2013-06-20T00:36:02.940" Score="2" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Case 85xt Skid Steer has a hydraulic leak somewhere but the engine area is covered in oil sludge so I can't tell where it is coming from. Is it safe to use de-greaser and or water around the engine compartment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3317" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T03:26:28.747" Title="Safe way to clean oil sludge around the engine?" Tags="|engine|grease|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6295" CreationDate="2013-06-20T02:56:07.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to go ahead trying to repair it, and I'm happy with the results. After bending the rusted metal back into shape, I started out using 40-grit sandpaper and a Dremel with a rust removal brush to remove paint and the brittle rust. Then I applied &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rust converter&lt;/a&gt; to what remained to prevent it from spreading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reconstructing the rusted-out part of the wheel arch, I asked the guy at Napa for advice choosing a filler material, and ended up going with a fiberglass resin. He thought plain Bondo would be more brittle and might break if rocks or road debris got kicked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin with, I cut (well actually tore) a segment of aluminum window screen and shaped it to match the missing part of the wheel arch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qsLTu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then globbed the fiberglass resin onto sheets of non-stick aluminum foil and stuck them to the screen for the main panel part (not the lip) and let them dry, then removed the foil and applied the resin for the lip directly to the screen with a putty knife. At first, it surface was every irregular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtTeB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I repeatedly sanded it down and added more resin as needed until the pits were pretty-well filled and the shape was right. I ended up applying the rust converter again after the final sanding, since I'd exposed bare metal and got a heavy rain before I could finish the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to put on the primer (Napa's store brand), I found some remaining pits that were going to look ugly. I tried several unsuccessful ideas for filling them before settling on just spraying the primer on really heavy then sanding it down, which worked our reasonably well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYFqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For paint and clearcoat, I used Duplicolor, which matched the original factory color almost perfectly, even with 20 years of wear on it. Here's the final result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IncxG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to wait for the paint to fully harden before I reattach the rubber piece that goes on the lip. That should make it look even better, and protect it. Now I just need to re-paint the adjacent scratched-up panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I was really happy with the resin product I used. It's very strong (hard to sand, actually) but not extremely rigid, so hopefully I don't have to worry about it breaking if somebody bumps my car in a parking lot, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T02:56:07.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2013-06-20T03:26:28.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your piece of equipment, but in general, yes it's okay to clean an engine compartment. Just don't use an inflammable degreaser. I like Krud Kutter or Simple Green at full concentration. Let it sit a few minutes then spray it down with a hose. Keep in mind afterwards you might want to spray some clean oil wherever there are moving parts or things that might rust, since you'll be cleaning &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; of the 'natural' lubricant/protection away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T03:26:28.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-20T17:35:59.683" Score="1" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 94 Integra has always had a loud clunk/jolt when shifting into reverse, and recently I've noticed that when I accelerate quickly (for example, at rest in an intersection for a left turn) I sometimes hear a loud clunk/click which seems to be coming from below me on the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what this could be? I want to hear opinions so I'm informed when I head to a mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Sorry, forgot to mention: AUTOMATIC transmission, front wheel drive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastEditorUserId="1947" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T23:09:51.457" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T01:30:10.547" Title="Loud clunking noise shifting into reverse and with sudden acceleration" Tags="|noise|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6413" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:05:40.067" Score="7" ViewCount="61731" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L V6 OHV Engine and I recently replaced the spark plugs. The thing is, the original recommended spark plugs have a gap of 0.52-0.56, which is what is recommended in the Haynes manual. However, I think some time between 2000 and now, the recommended plugs changed to another model, which is factory gapped to 0.44.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have is - which takes precedence? Should I be re-gapping these plugs to 0.54 because that is what is recommended in the shop manual, or should I be making sure the gap is 0.44 because that's what is recommended for these particular plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T22:53:14.853" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T09:30:40.720" Title="Spark plug gaps - manufacturer or shop manual recomendation?" Tags="|ford|ignition|sparkplugs|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6411" CreationDate="2013-06-20T19:07:03.737" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a 1981 Kawasaki 440 D that is belt driven on Craigslist for $850 and I just have a few questions on about it being a belt drive. Is a belt drive ok to have? Is it worse than chain drive? And if I do decide to buy this bike and the belt breaks how easy would it be to find a replacement belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T22:54:11.483" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T22:54:11.483" Title="Buying a 1981 Kawasaki 440 D questions" Tags="|motorcycle|belt|drivetrain|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6408" CreationDate="2013-06-20T23:27:08.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would verify that the new plugs are in fact the correct ones for the vehicle. If they are a different brand from those originally supplied I would cross reference the numbers just to be sure. If everything checks out, gap the plugs to the plug makers recommendation. The plug is designed with a gap setting that keeps the ground electrode perpendicular to the tip. Opening or closing the gap beyond those specifications results in a larger or smaller gap from one side of the tip to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T23:27:08.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6409" CreationDate="2013-06-20T23:41:01.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Google search revealed  several sources for a replacement final drive belt. Getting a replacement should not be a problem. If the current belt is more than five years old or the  owner doesn't know how old it is I would replace it soon.  The advantages of belt drive are less maintenance, no lubricant is slung off, like on a chain and they are quieter. The disadvantages are they can be model specific, meaning unless it is a really popular model most shops won't stock it. Tensioning a belt requires a little more care than a chain. If you don't inspect it regularly it can fail with no warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T02:53:24.180" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T02:53:24.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6407" CreationDate="2013-06-21T01:30:10.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clicking sound on acceleration especially while turning is most commonly caused by a CV (constant velocity) joint. A CV joint transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels. If you look under the car behind the front wheel you will see a black rubber cone around each end of the axle. This is the boot or cover for the CV joint. Many times the joint wears because the boot gets torn and the grease flies out and dirt and water fly in. This causes the bearings to wear, other times the boot will be intact but the joint just wears from use. Although the joints are available separately, most repairs consist of replacing the entire axle with a rebuilt axle assemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T01:30:10.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6408" CreationDate="2013-06-21T01:33:04.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find the spark plug gap specifications on a sticker that will be either on the radiator support or on the underside of the hood (there are other locations such as the strut towers, etc). This is the gap that should be used when using the OEM spark plugs and even when using an off-branded plug that is a valid replacement for the OEM brand. Here are a few examples of what the sticker will look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CY4YI.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CY4YI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/22/3a/55/medium/0996b43f80223a55.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;autozone.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQvJ4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T09:30:40.720" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T09:30:40.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6482" CreationDate="2013-06-21T15:18:40.300" Score="10" ViewCount="18698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've asked at least one question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6319/slow-acceleration-high-fuel-consumption-after-spark-plug-change&quot;&gt;my specific situation&lt;/a&gt; earlier, but at this point, I'm looking for information on how to operate in triage mode, my primary goal is to get my truck working well enough to run without issue for &lt;em&gt;two weeks&lt;/em&gt;, because in two weeks my other car and my motorcycle will arrive, allowing me much more freedom to work on my truck, wait for parts or even take it to a proper mechanic, but until then it's literally the only way I have of getting to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that my truck (2000 Ford Ranger, V6 4.0) has lost a lot of power and so acceleration is slow, my maximum speed is around 55-65 miles per hour, and the gas consumption is high. Here are the codes it's throwing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P1121: Throttle position sensor inconsistent with MAF sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0171: System too lean (Bank 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0174: System too lean (Bank 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0351: Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0352: Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that most of these codes are caused by the same thing. I think that P1121, P0171 and P0174 are related to either a vacuum leak somewhere in the system or a bad ground. I've cleaned the throttle body and MAF to no avail. I put a hose in my ear and put it at various junctions along the air intake system, but there's always a fan running right there, making it very difficult for me to tell what's a leak and what's some airflow from that fan, but one thing I did notice is that I can hear some hissing at both ends of the large, ribbed hose that connects the throttle body to the mass air flow sensor (this is a picture I found and drew on, not one I took):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yH14q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hissing sound coming from the connection between MAF and TB.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tightened those connections and shimmied them forward and back to no avail. So the question is - what are the things that can cause this and what stop-gap measures can I take to fix it? Because of the nature of the problem, I don't want to go down any blind alleys, so any diagnostic tests you can recommend would be appreciated. My current thought is that the O2 sensor is a red herring and that the problem is a leak somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: &#xA;There was indeed a leak in that hose (intake tube?), which I diagnosed by blowing smoke from a cigar into what I believe is one of the vacuum lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6p49.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hose in line&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a quickie repair of the tube using tape and gum which seems to be holding just fine, but no power has returned, so evidently that's not the problem. Using the same cigar trick, I found smoke coming from some part I can't identify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7LiT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What is this thing?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping I'll be able to get this sorted soon. Here's another view of where the smoke actually comes out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxH4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Turns out that that it is actually the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Canister-Purge-Valve-Solenoid/2000-Ford-Ranger-4WD/_/N-je7yiZ9gsrq?itemIdentifier=779340_0_9091_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;canister purge valve&lt;/a&gt;, which was indeed leaking (I unplugged the TPS and sprayed it with WD-40 and the idle noise changed, then swapped it with a new part and repeated and heard no change from spraying it). But for whatever reason that did not change the performance of the truck at all, so I'm still very much looking for any recommendations for possibilities for why I'm losing power, diagnostic tests I can run at home and how to just make this truck run for 1-2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow-on to that last update, 2 of the codes have now disappeared, I now only have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P1121: Throttle position sensor inconsitent with MAF sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0174: System Too Lean (Bank 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0351: Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So apparently fixing the one vacuum leak did solve one lean condition, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3&lt;/strong&gt;: I checked the voltage at the grey wire on the throttle position sensor,it smoothly varied from 0.6 V (closed throttle - idle position) to 0.5 V (wide open throttle) as a function of the throttle position. I pulled it off the truck and measured the resistance between I think pins 1 and 2 and it varied from 3 kOhms (closed) to 0 Ohms, smoothly. From what I saw in other posts people were saying it should vary from 1 V to 5 V, so that's suspicious, but I'm not convinced it's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Ok, so the day before I was scheduled to drop the truck off at the mechanic, I was driving home and was going to help someone move something on the way home (figured an extra 5 or so miles wouldn't hurt if I was already driving 40), but when I got to Sears (thank goodness I did this!), I got out of the truck and smelled radiator fluid burning - a smell I wish I were less familiar with. I was hoping it was someone else, but when I looked under the car it looked like my truck was ready to give birth. I went and got a new bottle of radiator fluid and took a look under the hood to discover that the coolant fan was now MISSING, with the fan clutch all scored up (presumably from the fan wobbling to and fro). I filled up the reservoir and drove the last few miles home (stopping only at Wal-mart to get more radiator fluid and some stop-leak, which I did not put in the radiator just yet) with the heat blasting. It was only sometimes hot, which really bothered me as I think it means the pump wasn't giving good circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make it home with minimal fluid loss and in the morning I make it OK to the mechanic, tell them all the problems and they look at me like I'm one of the patients on House - luckily they're actually very great mechanics and highly reviewed/recommended. They end up having to replace not only the fan but the radiator and the water pump - all leaking water profusely (as an aside, it's clear that this was not an upsell, as the guy was practically trying to convince me that this was work I could do myself rather than pay him to do it). Anyway, once that was all replaced, the power problems all mysteriously disappeared. The mechanic couldn't explain it, and I can't explain it. I haven't had time to pull the codes again, but the truck runs fine, so potentially this was some secondary effect of something in the cooling system. I would have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; guessed that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I could never find even an OEM version of that intake hose running from the throttle body to the MAFS, so I ended up putting a bit of hose patch tape over the hole and covering the whole thing with quick-setting JB-weld and I've had zero problems since. Seems like it may work as a permanent fix (at least until I'm at a salvage yard one day and see the right part just sitting there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully something I've done along the way will help someone later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T11:36:50.887" Title="Power loss in truck - triage options?" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|maf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-21T17:26:04.940" Score="6" ViewCount="28787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I park my 2006 Toyota 4Runner outside, and, after it rains, the inside of my car smells badly. i suspect that the moisture causes mildo. That said, I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I eliminate the odor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I prevent this from happening?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3327" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T16:46:45.310" Title="Why does my car smell badly after it has been raining?" Tags="|toyota|smell|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2013-06-21T18:04:52.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect your air vents are full of mildew that moistens and thus reactivates when it rains. The other possibility would be a leak where rain is getting into the cabin, but you would probably notice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the air vents, I don't know a good way to fix it. When I had this problem, I sprayed Lysol into the vents from both inside and outside, but that left me with a hideous chemical smell in place of the mildew smell for the next few months. It did mostly clear up the problem, though. I suspect there are better cleaners that will kill the mildew without sticking around with their own smells for a long time, but I'm not sure what would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T18:04:52.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-21T22:52:03.413" Score="3" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in the US, I want to purchase a car Radio/CD player unit to be installed in an car in Israel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago, I bought a cheap MP3 player w/ FM tuner to use there (not a car unit, just one of those small personal players), but it came out that the FM station's center frequencies in offset to those in the US, so no station could be actually received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before heading to the store to buy a unit, should I be concerned about the radio frequencies? Is there something to check before buying, to make sure I don't have a problem there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:30:25.893" Title="Car FM radio for overseas use?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2013-06-21T23:31:52.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you feel or see deep grooves? Are your old pads irregularly worn? Have you already resurfaced the rotors? Do you feel shudder under braking? Are they close or under minimum thickness? Are they irregularly worn edge to edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks do replace rotors at each pad change, most shops will at least resurface at each change (replacing them every other time or so when they can't be resurfaced anymore), but nobody does it because of exterior rust - which is pretty much normal. I imagine if your car has been sitting idle outdoors for 6 months, you may have a more serious rust issue - but that certainly doesn't sound like the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most preventative advice, you have to weigh the costs and benefits. If they're $20 rotors, it may be reasonable to go ahead. If they're $80 rotors, I'd probably think twice myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the &quot;advice&quot; of replacing rotors because of exterior rust would prompt me to replace the mechanic (assuming there's no other reason to replace them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1548" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T23:31:52.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2013-06-22T00:37:01.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short of tearing apart the engine, there's really no way to tell externally. The manufacturer knows, and sometimes it'll be listed in the owner's or service manual. Otherwise, using something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gates lookup&lt;/a&gt; will usually get you the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, your Acura almost definitely has an interference design (I believe all or most Hondas do). Not sure about the Volvo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1548" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T00:37:01.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6018" CreationDate="2013-06-22T01:06:36.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fan problem or radiator problem seem likely. Clean out any debris near the radiator, and check the fins for build up of leaves/bugs etc. It could be a clogged radiator - test for cold spots or drain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1548" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T01:06:36.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2013-06-22T01:06:38.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used hydrogen peroxide to remove odors from the air vents.  Turn your air conditioner on full and pour some peroxide into the outside air intakes.  Then turn the heater on full and pour in some more.  Wait about 10 minutes and shut everything down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T01:06:38.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T05:19:25.917" Score="1" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 2008 Jetta, 2.5L petrol engine, I started driving more on the highways, and taking longer trips, and noticed a much better mileage than the prior driving that was still mostly highway, but involved some city stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then checked the oil level, and it was non-existent.  I added two containers of oil, about ~2L (IIRC, engine capacity is ~6L total), and then the level was at the lowest allowable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that time, there was probably 10k miles after the prior oil change of about a year prior, which was done at the dealership, with obviously supposedly &quot;fully&quot; synthetic oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could some of the lost oil, which was supposed to have been dealer-grade &quot;full&quot; synthetic (California), been converted into sludge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did the car had great gas mileage when being so low on oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="2760" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T05:28:46.500" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T20:06:43.327" Title="Does a low oil level mean some synthetic has converted to sludge?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T05:44:44.343" Score="2" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my 2008 Jetta painted at a shop in Northern California with a very good reputation and customer satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst I was originally happy with the work, after not seeing my car for a couple of months and it being delivered all nice and shiny, I almost immediately drove it through snow in Colorado within the first week after getting it back, and after having it for a couple of months, started feeling dissatisfied that the &lt;strong&gt;new paint&lt;/strong&gt; looks considerably more &lt;strong&gt;matte&lt;/strong&gt; than the old paint, where the &lt;strong&gt;old paint&lt;/strong&gt; looks much more &lt;strong&gt;glossy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the car back to the shop in California, they said they'll &lt;strong&gt;polish&lt;/strong&gt; it, and it seems like it might have helped; however, I'm concerned that the owner of the shop seems to be claiming that the difference in paint is a result of me talking the car to the snowy regions that potentially tree their streets with harsh chemicals, even though I only had it there for a couple of days, and washed the car within about a week after getting out of Colorado's snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why's my car's new paint noticeably more matte than the old paint being noticeable more glossy?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a regular person tell a difference between the factory paint and a good shop paint?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T01:31:37.513" Title="Is shop paint visibly different to factory paint?" Tags="|paint|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T06:07:05.770" Score="3" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone with a provisional licence hit my 2008 Jetta on the side, and the side of my car had to be reshaped and repainted.  It involved repainting the whole side, including the strip on top of the doors, which is the same part as the roof-top; they've covered up the roof-top, and painted only the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the time when I first got the car after the job, but after a short while, including driving the car in snow and getting a car-wash, I noticed that the seam on the roof top where they've repainted the side now has a rather visible white line on it; it's not entirely noticeable, because the top of the car is shaped in such a way that the side is slightly higher than the rooftop, and the seam appears within this side that's elevated from the roof-top on the roof-top's inside; however, the idea of such seam just being there nonetheless somewhat bothers me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've now tried re-polishing it, and it seems like it might have went away, but I'm afraid that, ultimately, it's going to come back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on, and is there any rule of thumb here?  The shop that did the job is an old reputable local shop in Northern California, which strives to make sure their customers stay very satisfied.  Did they simply not repolish it correctly the first time, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  so, it seems like the white line is still there.  Here are some pictures, the first four is the re-painted side of the rooftop on the driver's side, and the last one is the original non-repainted side on the passenger side.  The imperfections in the paint are much more visible in these magnified pictures than with the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jDSwO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;re-painted side of the rooftop, with the seam visible&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6qWTy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;re-painted side of the rooftop, with the seam visible&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfKjF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;re-painted side of the rooftop, with the seam visible&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AeUWe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;re-painted side of the rooftop, with the seam visible&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qfy5a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the good side, factory-painted, with no seam&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="2760" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T17:49:53.487" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T05:14:20.343" Title="is a visible paint seam on the roof-top ok?" Tags="|paint|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6422" CreationDate="2013-06-22T06:13:07.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're burning oil, and extra combustible material in the combustion chambers gives you more energy output with the same amount of gas going in (and thus better effective mileage, although you're not measuring the oil you burned).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having less oil in the engine means less parasitic loss from the oil pump and perhaps other moving parts that move through oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T06:13:07.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T07:16:11.893" Score="1" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a brand new 2008 Jetta SE (2.5L petrol engine, automatic transmission, 21mpg city, 29mpg highway) in May 2008, which had under 200 miles on it.  I immediately within a week drove it from eastern North Carolina to southern Ontario in a day, going above 100 mph for some parts of the trip, possibly averaging above 74mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure when exactly, but I've noticed from the very start that my car had a really-really bad gas mileage.  I would usually get about 200 miles until the gas light would come on, sometimes even just under 200 miles; the gas tank is 14.5 gallons, IIRC, but it usually fills at about 12,5 gallons when the light goes on.  200 &amp;div; 12,5 is 16mpg, ridiculously low.  I think even going on the highways at 79mph to 89mph never brought me above 250 miles on a 13 to 13,5 gallon tank, and I don't drive in the Sport mode all the time, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a number of oil changes at the dealerships, where they obviously supposed to use &quot;fully&quot; synthetic oil, and charge and itemise for the oil changes as such.  Mileage has never improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except that recently, I've noticed that my oil level was non-existent after about ~10k to ~12k miles from the last oil change (I got lazy at visiting the dealerships, being dissatisfied with their service), and added an actual 5W40 &quot;fully-synthetic&quot;: ~1L Castrol, 1L Pentosin, then a couple of k miles afterwards, after learning about ester-based oils and getting low on oil again, 1L of Redline, then a couple of more k miles, one more Redline (yes, 4L in total!); I also got new tires of the same size as OEM, but a different brand (Yokohama in place of Michelin), and also started driving longer distances on highway and also higher altitudes; I've noticed that now it's unusual for me to have less than ~300 miles prior to the low-gas light, and once through Wyoming, I got to almost 400 miles on a single tank, getting above the promised 29mpg (I think I got even 30 or 31mpg!) with now nearly 20k miles after the last full oil change, with 4L of top-up oil, 2L of which is ester-based Redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why did my car always had 16mpg when I just bought it, when it's supposed to have been 21mpg city and 29mpg highway?  I do use AC, but I don't idle.  I drove highway, from NC to ON, and never got anywhere close to 29mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did my mileage really improve recently?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I could do to be compensated for bad mileage from the beginning of owning the car?  I might have all the gas receipts; will have to check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to change the oil at all?  Is it at all weird to be getting such great mileage when the original 6L of oil was reduced into 2L, and has now been running for close to 20k miles?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T09:33:44.257" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T14:02:13.743" Title="very bad gas mileage in a brand new german car" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T07:23:13.217" Score="1" ViewCount="2386" Body="&lt;p&gt;They say that ester-based oils are used in jet-engines, where the oil is sealed, and it never has to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use an ester-based oil as the lubricant for my Jetta 2.5L petrol, such as the Redline 5W40 brand, would I have to change the oil at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I just run on Redline forever, and simply top-up more, should any of it burn out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T01:19:11.177" Title="Does one have to change ester-based fully synthetic oils?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T07:29:23.117" Score="0" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is known that some oils are eaten up by the engine, at a rate of up to 1L per 1k miles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are ester-based oils (like Redline 5W40) less or more likely to disappear from the oil pan after going a certain number of miles (e.g. burn out together with gas into exhausts), compared to non-ester-based fully-synthetic oils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T23:19:27.047" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T23:19:27.047" Title="Are ester-based oils less or more likely to disappear from the engine?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-07-24T11:37:15.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T10:58:01.337" Score="2" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it coming on.  The only way to turn it off is to &#xA;kill the engine, and restart it.  Brakes seem to work alright when the light is on. &#xA;How do I test it to see what is causing this light to come on?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3330" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T22:28:24.877" Title="2009 Toyota Camry.. ABS light comes on occasionally." Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6004" CreationDate="2013-06-22T11:03:47.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some days without answers, so here is what i am thinking, please notê i am not bmw specialist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bad noise: It has happen after changing the tensioner as you said, if this kind of noise come slowly this is important but could sounds like &quot;normal&quot; old engine, but if it appear after this kind of works around the timing chain, don't look after sparks plugs thee are not in fault, and with the video there is no asynchronism, the ignition is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the noise is from the cameshaft or a moving part around: Not sure but i believe your car got VANOS which needs specials adjustement for get them working fine, and this probably a problematic parts for car with somes years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it happen to me like you describe, there is no way to drive like this, this need full check of the timing belt, calibration, with the special constructor recoimendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take note all this kind of bmw motors had this noise after some time, the problem is it come brutally after human works, this is no good, something got to be done for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light bad timing can cause high idling, for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastEditorDisplayName="user3312" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T11:15:13.737" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T11:15:13.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T16:23:23.233" Score="-1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;With miles, there are no SI prefixes, so, you just write &quot;every 3k/10k miles&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With kilometres, there's already an SI prefix present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the sane way to write, say, &quot;5000 / 16'000 km&quot; in a shorter form, without all the zeros?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T21:17:32.547" Title="Is there a megametre (Mm)?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-07-09T20:05:47.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6431" CreationDate="2013-06-22T22:28:24.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without an ABS capable scan tool you would be guessing. Since the problem is intermittent a scan tool is really required since you need to retrieve any stored codes. It could be a sensor, a wiring issue or a wheel bearing allowing enough play to occasionally miss the timing ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T22:28:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-23T00:32:15.277" Score="2" ViewCount="5225" Body="&lt;p&gt;08 PT Cruiser blows warm air but never gets cold. Tried Freon but it doesn't blow cold or last long at all. It sounds like it's clicking on and off not too rapidly when driving it blow slightly cooler but never cold on max and while parked it blows hot air. It's summer in Texas and I'm sweating my makeup off.. any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T00:22:56.230" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T00:22:56.230" Title="AC repair need help so bad it's hot!" Tags="|ac|repair|pt-cruiser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-23T00:32:54.287" Score="3" ViewCount="39964" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day my '03 Ford Fiesta suddenly failed in 4th gear when I changed from 3rd to 4th. My revs shot right up reaching roughly 5000 without any acceleration then after a few seconds the revs went back down to normal and speed eventually went faster but it's happening all the time. 1st and 2nd work fine, but 3rd and above fail in speed and revs shoot right up all over. 3rd gear was not actually that bad at some points. &#xA;This started as I just came off a slip road onto a motorway so it was a bit scary as my car struggled to reach speed but eventually it got to 70mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left my vehicle at a garage as soon as I got to my home town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know the cause? I'm waiting for my local garage get back to me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3333" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-06-23T17:32:58.857" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T22:10:11.880" Title="Revs shooting up when accelerating in high gears" Tags="|ford|oil|clutch|ignition|gear-oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6436" CreationDate="2013-06-23T02:07:13.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engine's power is not being transmitted to the transmission. The cost of a clutch replacement is too varied to give an accurate estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clarification&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Energy will always take the path of least resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From a clutch's perspective, it is much more stressful to turn the drive wheels faster when the vehicle is in motion compared to when accelerating from a full stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When accelerating from full stop&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA; - If the energy being transfered is too great the first to lose traction will be the tires. If the clutch was worn enough then once the tires had gained enough traction to overpower the clutch's grip, this is when the slippage would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When accelerating form higher speeds&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(50mph @ ~1500rpm)&lt;/em&gt; - The weakest link now becomes the clutch itself since it is rather difficult to spin the tires at this speed (for normal cars). The friction/heat generated between the clutch assembly and flywheel is much higher and in turn the clutch loses its traction and RPMs go up but the vehicle does not accelerate. A new clutch, which would be much thicker, will be able to distribute this heat much more effectively and in turn keep it engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="5026" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T22:10:11.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T22:10:11.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2013-06-23T03:41:11.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the compressor is activating so you can rule out the Compressor Clutch and all associated electrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the A/C on &lt;code&gt;MAX A/C&lt;/code&gt; and the Blower Speed on &lt;code&gt;MAX&lt;/code&gt;. Once this is done, go under the hood and you'll most likely notice that the &lt;em&gt;Condesor Fans&lt;/em&gt; are not spinning as they should be. If this fan isn't working properly then the A/C will blow warm whenever you are not moving and then the start to get cooler while driving. If the fan is not working then check for power at the fan motor. if there is no power then find out why &lt;em&gt;(fuse, broken wire, bad fan)&lt;/em&gt; and repair as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;These fans come on in other situations but with the A/C in these settings the fan should be on constantly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fan is working then there are a few other possibilities.&#xA; - The freeon level is either too low / too high. Too much freon is just as bad as too little. It is bad practice to just fill it up with the Autozone trash. The system &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be properly evacuated, vacuumed, and recharged to ensure that all moisture is removed from the system and there are no leaks in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Low Pressure Switch could be faulty. You can check for voltage at the switch by backprobing it or you could check for power at the pigtail. After wiring is checked and power is found then you can check resistance in the switch and determin it's functionality. _This switch is located on the Low Side of the A/C system. This switch is a normally &lt;code&gt;CLOSED&lt;/code&gt; switch that will switch &lt;code&gt;OPEN&lt;/code&gt; when the system is too low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The High Pressure Siwtch could be faulty. This is checked in the same fashion as the Low Pressure Switch and is also a Normaly &lt;code&gt;CLOSED&lt;/code&gt; switch that will switch &lt;code&gt;OPEN&lt;/code&gt; when freon level is too high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;_These two switches turn the Compressor Clutch off &lt;em&gt;(the cycling clicking you've most likely heard)&lt;/em&gt; in an attempt to protect the Compressor and System from further breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The compressor itself is faulty and not compressing. It is possible that the compressor is being actuated and and it is not compressing anything. Anytime I've seen this situation there has been a horrible noise assosiated with it whenever the compressor was on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick test for the switches can be done if you are certain the the system pressures are good. First, Locate the Low Side (should be on back against the firewall on the passanger side). Turn the A/C on and then unplug the sensor and with a piece of wire that is stripped on either end short the two terminals on the harness side. This will activate the compressor. If the pressures are good and all electrical checks out the nthe switch is bad. You can do the same thing to the High Pressure Switch. &lt;em&gt;If both switches are bad then the A/C will only work if both switches are shorted&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T03:41:11.373" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-06-23T03:41:11.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6414" CreationDate="2013-06-23T04:19:45.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part you're pointing to is this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EGR VACUUM SOLENOID&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): F57Z9J459C, F63Z9J459AA, ZZM32035A, ZZM42035A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNYsg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;EGRvacuumsolenoid2000ranger4.0l&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T04:19:45.740" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6442" CreationDate="2013-06-23T14:12:25.177" Score="5" ViewCount="7173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Camry 2004. When I just bought it, I have noticed that it has a tow ball. I didn't really intend to use it but now it could really help me to move few things around with a trailer I can borrow from a friend. The thing is that when I started connecting it to a car, I have realized that there is no electricity outlet for the trailer (the one used for powering the lights on the trailer) so I didn't have any place to stuck the trailer's plug to... I was really surprised since I was sure that if there is a tow ball - there must be a power outlet. I guess I was wrong here. So what I wanted to ask is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe I am looking in the wrong place? I have scanned all the back of the car and tried to feel it with my hand hiding below the car. I have even looked in the trunk. No luck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is no such plug after all, is it possible to install one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If IT IS possible to install it, can it be a DIY project or this is strictly professional business?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="3150" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T04:44:45.980" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:24:05.227" Title="Have tow ball but not electricity for a trailer" Tags="|electrical|towing|trailer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6440" CreationDate="2013-06-23T17:27:18.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many older cars with a tow ball had no electrical outlet - back in the day regulations weren't as strict on adding lights to trailers etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern cars either have an outlet, or have a factory option for adding one. Typically, Camry's from about 97 or 98 have a panel you need to remove inside the trunk. This does vary a bit between versions, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoV3vVGcT40&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; is pretty typical. Check your manufacturers guide for details. Definitely do-able yourself with a little bit of DIY experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very newest cars actually have setup options which not only give you electrics for the lights but also alter ECU settings to cope with the added mass behind the car. This should make life even easier, but typically is safer as a factory modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T17:27:18.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5951" CreationDate="2013-06-23T19:31:07.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very common failure in the Nissan's. The part number on the 2001/2002 Model Year MAF Sensor was 22680-6N200. This part has been known for a very high failure rate. It was later superceeded by part numbers 22680-6N201 and 22680-AM600. One of these two parts should be the one that you are ordering for the vehicle. If in any case these are not available, many dealers have been taking the 2003 MAF and installing them into the 2002MY vehicles. There has not been many failures with running one of the two newer part numbers or running the 2003 (only difference is the 2003MY MAF has intake temperature intergraded into it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When replacing the MAF you should also replace the Air Filter if needed. Also, it is essential that you reset the Engine Control Module as well. If not you will run the risk of damaging the new sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that the terminals on the connector are not corroded or damaged in any way. This will also potentially damage the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of senarios that will trigger a MAF sensor code to come up. If you had a list of trouble codes or actual values from the sensor itself it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T19:31:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6447" CreationDate="2013-06-23T19:35:52.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my car started chugging and &quot;vibrating&quot; at low speeds, and the check engine light is flashing on and off. On inspection, I found oil in the coolant. I don't know a lot about cars, but a somewhat knowledgeable person I know, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1921/oil-in-coolant-how-much-trouble-am-i-in&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; indicate that it's a sign of the head gasket starting to go. I'd like to be sure, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is the problem almost certainly the head gasket, or could something else be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: The engine is a V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T01:29:52.993" Title="2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE oil in the coolant" Tags="|engine|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6446" CreationDate="2013-06-23T22:17:03.867" Score="20" ViewCount="473922" Body="&lt;p&gt;the steering wheel sometimes shakes at high speeds around 70 miles per hour. It does not always happen. Some day when I am driving at 70, I feel no shakes. some day it shakes badly at the same speed. Also, if I drive slower or faster a speed range (usually between 68 and 75), it never shakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the following, but still the wheel shakes sometimes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had the left wheel bearing replaced a month ago. The mechanic told me it needs to be replaced. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires are fine (not perfect, but not bad either). I had them rotated a month ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had the front rotars and pads replaced a month ago. When I brake, it does NOT shake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shaking wheel problem has been around for quite some time (almost two years). What service does the car need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I had the tires balanced, and it is a little bit better now. It is not perfect yet. I was told that the tires are kinda cheap, low quality tires that are not perfectly round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastEditorUserId="3161" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T01:41:45.327" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:52:52.660" Title="Steering wheel shakes at high speeds" Tags="|tires|steering-wheel|alignment|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2013-06-23T23:06:36.027" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues involving steering wheel vibrations problems &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; are most noticeable at one or two narrow speed ranges (5-10mph and 60-70mph), and will decrease significantly, and in some cases, even disappear outside of these ranges. The amount of vibration caused by worn tires will often be seen over a broader speed range if the tire is worn more. The severity of the vibration is directly related to the vehicles speed. Also, the speed range at which the vibration is felt is also directly related to the amount of wear the tires have endured. At low speeds sometimes a &quot;wobbles&quot; can be felt. These are mostly caused by bent wheels, tires with shifted belts (also referred to as &quot;runout&quot;), and suspension/alignment issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire or Wheel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quality&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick indication of either a poor quality wheel or tire is usually seen by the use of a lot of weights used when balancing the wheel/tire combination. When using a higher end tire on a &quot;straight&quot; wheel you should need somewhere around .5oz of weight per wheel. Tires of inferior quality are often seen with weaker tread layers and belt seating. and may simply just be out of round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Damage&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Broken Belt&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a belt is broken inside of a tire it will cause the tire to &quot;bounce&quot; since it is unable to keep it's form. Think of a tire without a broken belt as a baseball, and the tire with a broken belt as a stress ball. Below is an image of a tire with a broken belt. You can see the bottom of the tread is 100% worn while the top of the tire still has tread left. This was caused by the &quot;bouncing&quot; condition.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hlYk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipped Belt&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a slipped belt in a tire it will cause the tire to &quot;wobble&quot; and the steering wheel to shake. Here is a image of a severely slipped belt.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NylA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beltslip&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel Balance&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(out of round, bent, excessive wear, uneven tread, etc)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually, neither tires nor wheels are perfect. This is the reason why wheels are balanced whenever tires are replaced and then, rebalanced periodically as they wear. Driving with unbalanced wheels long enough can and will cause flat spots in the tire, which will then always vibrate. Performing a static balance is just not good enough. Balance should always be checked at driving speeds this is known as dynamic balancing. The wheels are removed from the vehicle and one by one put on a Balancing Machine where the mechanic will enter in the appropriate measurements and then the machine will spin the wheel and printout location and amount of weight needed in order to properly balance the wheel. Also, if the wrong type of weights for your wheel type are used, they are likely to come off, giving you an instant balance problem.&#xA;Read more: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mbworld.org/forums/wheels-tires-suspension-brakes-forum-sponsored-tire-rack/111691-causes-wheel-vibration.html#ixzz2agpFwcz5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mbworld.org/forums/wheels-tires-suspension-brakes-forum-sponsored-tire-rack/111691-causes-wheel-vibration.html#ixzz2agpFwcz5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension &amp;amp; Alignment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suspension&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessively worn suspension components will cause effect the way in which the tire contacts the road. This is due to the fact that if any component (ball-joint, tie-rod, wheel bearing, etc) has excessive play it makes the position  because it may make maintaining proper alignment impossible. It may also cause other problems not related to wheel balance and wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alignment&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maladjusted Camber will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; directly cause a vibration, but it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; cause uneven and/or rapid tire wear. In turn effect the balance/smoothness of a tires rotation. A lot of mechanics will &lt;em&gt;insist&lt;/em&gt; that an improper toe adjustment will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be the cause of a steering wheel vibration, but I remain skeptical. Even if I'm wrong it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; still certainly causes rapid and uneven tire wear. Caster has no effect on tire wear &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; it will effect steering wheel's ability to return after making a turn. Bad alignment is the cause of many tread wear problems that will create vibration issues even if the wheels are perfectly balanced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T05:16:41.357" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T05:16:41.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6444" CreationDate="2013-06-24T01:00:24.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil found &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the Cooling System is typically caused by leaking Intake Manifold Gaskets and sometimes the Intake Manifold itself is cracked/damaged. It is a very common issue with these vehicles. It's not a job I would recommend someone do at home unless you have the tools and experience to confidently perform the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of what the intake gasket set looks like. You didn't list engine size in your original post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/io4Aw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T01:00:24.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2013-06-24T08:13:01.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just FYI: a worn wheel bearing will make an irritating high-pitched whining noise. If you ignore that, it will start making a horrible grinding noise, accompanied by a slight vibration on the steering wheel. If you don't hear anything, it's probably not the bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do:&#xA;1. Check for bald spots on the front wheels.&#xA;2. Have your shocks tested. Or do it yourself: press down hard on your car's hood and quickly release. If your car bounces more than once, you have worn shocks.&#xA;3. Probably not your issue, but if your control-arm has any play in it, it may also cause this behaviour. But it also causes your car to sometimes veer left or right by itself, so it's probably not that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T08:13:01.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2013-06-24T10:04:01.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends more on the thickness of the oil than it's composition. Oil is lost from the engine through leaks and burning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both occur as the engine wears with age, and the tolerances between the components increase, allowing the oil to seep past various seals in the engine. Some of it 'escapes' to atmosphere, for example through the crank seals, and some gets into the cylinders, and is burnt (leading to blue smoke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a thinner oil will be lost more, as it needs less gap to get through - hence why older and more agricultural engines, with their less-precise tolerances, tend to use thicker oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T10:04:01.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2013-06-24T16:46:45.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for leaks.  It's a rare car that doesn't have at least a small water leak somewhere.  Larger ones lead to nasty smells and eventually rusted out parts.  The floor padding can absorb a fair amount of water before it becomes visible on the carpeting itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T16:46:45.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6454" CreationDate="2013-06-24T18:07:28.000" Score="4" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will (assuming perfectly, or almost, considering we're humans)clutchless shifting your car all the time affect in a worst way the shifting box mechanism than shifting the gear in a regular fashion, using the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="793" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T01:13:44.823" Title="Clutchless shifting and long term maintenance" Tags="|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6453" CreationDate="2013-06-24T18:44:10.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch is there for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that some drivers, with some cars, can shift a manual transmission smoothly without it, and it's a useful skill to have in an emergency (if the clutch fails such that it's always engaged, and you can keep from having to stop the car, you can keep driving).  However, when you do this the synchronization gears (&quot;synchros&quot;) take a beating, as they shoulder all of the work of bringing the transmission gears to the correct speeds depending on road speed and crank speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disengaging the clutch (&quot;putting it in&quot;) and then gradually engaging it (&quot;letting it out&quot;) as you shift lets the clutch disc take most of the wear, instead of the syncros; as the clutch engages, friction on the disc forces the input shaft of the transmission to match the crank speed, which in turn sets up the syncros to bring the main gears inside the transmission to the correct speeds before they meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is yes, no matter how good you are at shifting the transmission without the clutch, you will cause premature wear on it.  A clutch is much cheaper to replace than a transmission, so it's better to use the former whenever possible.  Put the effort you are putting into practicing clutchless shifting into learning to properly match engine revs when downshifting instead—this is an increasingly forgotten skill that will give you the biggest payoff in terms of reducing wear on the car (and make your driving much smoother!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T01:13:44.823" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T01:13:44.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-24T20:58:58.593" Score="1" ViewCount="2215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a belt driven pump on a sprayer that is powered by a small engine.  The keyway on the shaft of the pump is a little worn and at some point the key worked itself out.  Unfortunately I did not catch it before the pulley started to wear down the shaft.  I replaced the key with a new one that appears to be snug and tightened down the screw, but the pulley keeps wanting to ride off.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The sprayer is used for fruit trees and I am in the middle of the season, so rebuilding the pump is going to take up precious time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to keep this pulley on the shaft or am I simply out of luck and replacing the shaft is the only route to go?  Would a product like Loctite work (temporarily or otherwise)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T10:40:56.097" Title="Keyed shaft is worn down, how do I keep pulley from riding off the end?" Tags="|pulley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6458" CreationDate="2013-06-24T22:20:05.653" Score="4" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cracked my windshield in the very low corner on the passenger's side.  The sharded area is perhaps 10 sq in at the most but then some crack extend out of it and go 6-7 in (2 or 3 of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called my insurance co and they made an appointment for me to try to have it repaired at an auto glass shop for free.  However, they said that if it is too big to be repaired and it needs to be replaced, I will  be responsible for the deductible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What surprised me was the concept of &quot;windshield repair&quot;.  I never knew a windshield can be repaired, i.e. if glass were broken, it should be replaced.  How do you repair broken auto glass?  Just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T11:16:45.490" Title="Windshield repair" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2013-06-24T23:55:52.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I have already replaced my Forester's windshield twice, and should go soon for the 3rd time. What surprises me is that your insurance co. charges deductible. Mine was free both times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I heard, when the crack is small enough, then it is possible to carefully drill a circular hole in the glass and then fill it with some kind of bond or resin. It should then have its structural strength again, eliminating the propagation of cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="3328" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T11:16:45.490" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T11:16:45.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2013-06-25T00:07:54.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Windshield repairs are usually limited to small chips and small cracks. Several cracks that long will most likely require that the windshield be replaced. The repair is done by injecting a resin into the flaw then polishing the surface. Most shops limit the length to about three inches. There are specialized shops that say the limit is six to eight inches, that is however for a single crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T00:07:54.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2013-06-25T00:32:46.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of Band-Aid type options. If the shaft extends past the pulley you could try to add a clamp-tite collar on both sides of the pulley. You can try to drill and tap a second setscrew hole in the pulley. Vibratite makes a retaining product that can be used with clearances up to .0150&quot;. Be warned it may be very difficult to remove the pulley without adding some heat. You might wwant to try all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T10:40:56.097" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T10:40:56.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6462" CreationDate="2013-06-25T07:08:34.287" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace my dying '96 Accord, and I've been skimming Craigslist for used cars. While searching for Acura TLs, I noticed one in my price range that was significantly newer than the others: a 2010 TL SH-AWD with 93k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The others in the same price range (usually cheaper) were 2004-2006 models, also with around 100k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, which car is more likely to last longer without excessive maintenance: a 3-year old car with 93k miles, or an 8-year old car with 93k miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are there any specific things I should look out for on a newish car with high mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T08:37:45.070" Title="Which 100kmi car should be in better shape: newer or older?" Tags="|maintenance|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6461" CreationDate="2013-06-25T08:37:45.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A newer high-milage car will usually have done a lot of highway miles (unless it was a taxi/minicab, but the TL doesn't look like that sort of car...). This means it will have been driven at a constant cruise for long periods of time. It will probably have been a company car, driven by a sales rep or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, an 'average' mileage car (in the UK, this tends to be around 10-12k miles/year) will have had a much more mixed life, being driven at all speeds and on all types of roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the service history, and pay attention to the details. A lot of company cars get neglected, as people care less about a car that someone else is responsible for fixing. You want to find a car that has been looked after and maintained properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T08:37:45.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6465" CreationDate="2013-06-25T09:19:47.377" Score="5" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing a software to make a telemetry application for my 2001 VW Golf mk4 reading parameters from OBD2 using an ELM327 compatible cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I succeeded so far. The problem that I have now, is that the software is too slow (3 - 4 values per seconds). Some of the problems might be in my software, some may be limitation of the OBD2 protocol in my car, but let's presume that it's all from my software and I'm going to improve it to the point I'll be able to read as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read in the documentation for the cable that is forbidden, for a car using OBD2 standars prior of 2002, to read values faster than 100 milliseconds appart. It sais that problems &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; occur, but they don't go into details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: does anybody have any idea what sorts of problem may occure by &lt;strong&gt;reading&lt;/strong&gt; information to fast from the OBD2, and if those problems, if occurring, may be fixed by just removing &amp;amp; re-connecting the battery terminals to the car ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T17:20:48.637" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T12:41:03.773" Title="Reading OBD2 too fast" Tags="|vw|obd-ii|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T13:02:26.517" Score="5" ViewCount="6222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic LX 4-door sedan.  Rather than a fixed maintenance schedule, this car has a &quot;maintenance minder&quot; display on the dash which counts down the remaining &quot;oil life&quot; (based, I believe, on a combination of time, miles driven, and engine revs).  When the oil life reaches 10%, the minder displays a code indicating which maintenance items are needed (oil change, fuel filter replacement, spark plugs, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, the oil life indicator is at 40%, so no codes are displayed.  But I have a long trip coming up, and I'd like to consider having the next maintenance done early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I find out what items will be needed at the next service?&lt;/strong&gt; I don't have a code reader, but an answer involving one would still be useful, as it means my mechanic will be able to tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T20:06:40.213" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T20:06:40.213" Title="2006 Civic: What maintenance is due next?" Tags="|honda|civic|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6463" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:13:39.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ELM documentation&lt;/a&gt; indicates that this is not a query-only problem.  I see on page 31 of that document that the issue was that of the rate at which J1850 requests arrive at the OBD system (this is a consequence of the April 2002 update of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_signal_protocols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;J1979 standard&lt;/a&gt;).  Specifically, they warn you against querying at rates higher than 100 milliseconds (also known as 10 per second) but don't provide any specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to understand that you aren't just passively reading data.  There's a query-response asynchronous loop going on.  As near as I can tell, too many queries too fast could overflow the outgoing message queue on the OBD system.  Since that situation sounds an awful lot like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_overflow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buffer overflow problem&lt;/a&gt;, it's not impossible that you could do fatal damage to your OBD system, if not your entire engine computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That's me being skittish: it's your vehicle, of course.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that all said: it looks like OBD monitoring tools are freely available for Ubuntu.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/precise/man1/obdgpslogger.1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual page for obdgpslogger&lt;/a&gt; shows two options of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   -a|--samplerate &amp;lt;samples-per-second&amp;gt;&#xA;          Sample at most this many times a second. The software will sleep&#xA;          temporarily at the end of each loop if appropriate. Keep in mind&#xA;          there is an upper limit to samplerate, typically capped  by  I/O&#xA;          on  your  serial  port.  Set  this  to zero to sample as fast as&#xA;          possible.  BE WARNED. Values greater than ten here are forbidden&#xA;          for  cars  predating April 2002. If you think your car postdates&#xA;          early 2002, and you'd like to sample as fast as possible, the -o&#xA;          option may help&#xA;&#xA;   -o|--enable-optimisations&#xA;          Enable  certain  elm327  optimisations. This will [usually] make&#xA;          sampling faster [not a noticeable amount if you're only sampling&#xA;          once a second], but makes it much easier to accidentally disobey&#xA;          the standard if you're sampling as fast as possible.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that page, it seems that the best actual rate that you're likely to achieve will result from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;obdgpslogger --samplerate 10 --enable-optimisations&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T11:47:28.760" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T11:47:28.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6470" CreationDate="2013-06-25T19:42:41.803" Score="2" ViewCount="2779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Mazda 3, and unfortunately I ran over some road debris (probably a tire or something, I didn't get a good look at it). My local Mazda dealer checked it out and said there was nothing wrong besides some broken plastic bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I was inspecting my front grill, I noticed this electrical cable with two end pieces lying loose just in front of my radiator. I'm curious 1) what this component is, and 2) should it be attached somewhere? It seems odd for it to just be lying there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, this cable is on the driver's side, just in front of the radiator and behind the lower front grill. Here's a picture of the component in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P0bdi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown electrical component&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T01:00:21.963" Title="Front grill electrical component near radiator" Tags="|electrical|mazda|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6468" CreationDate="2013-06-25T20:02:23.287" Score="1" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should brake fluid be replaced in a Subaru Impreza 2002? Or should it be replaced at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Looking for distances in km)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3347" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T13:48:41.500" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T13:48:41.500" Title="Schedule for brake fluid replacement in Subaru" Tags="|subaru|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6467" CreationDate="2013-06-25T20:41:53.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru recommends every 48000 km or 30 months. It also recommends that it be changed more often if used in severe conditions. Severe duty would be lots of stop and go use like a taxi would see. Or very dusty conditions, wet conditions, towing  heavy loads etc. The reason for the flush and change is because brake fluid absorbs water and water promotes rust. There are also additives in the brake fluid that weaken over time. The Antilock Brake (ABS) system consists of valves, pumps and solenoids that have very small passages that can get blocked by small pieces of rust and dirt. If blocked the system may not work correctly. Way back before ABS cars had a simpler fluid transfer system. The ports were large enough that they didn't clog as easily and with most American cars the lines rusted through and the fluid was replaced with the new brake line. You may be able to get away without flushing the system for many years but may also wind up with very expensive repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T20:41:53.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2013-06-26T00:41:28.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need more refrigerant (&quot;freon&quot;). Most modern AC systems have pressure sensors on both the high and low pressure sides of the system. If the high pressure side goes to high, or the low pressure side too low, the compressor clutch (and possibly fan) will switch off. When the system is really low, running the compressor just a second or two will get the low-pressure side too low, and it will immediately cut off, then cycle again. This can be very confusing if you have your pressure gauge attached, since when it cuts off, the pressure on the low-pressure side will shoot up above the target value, leading you to think it's fully charged. It's not. It's near-empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just unload a whole can into the system to get it partly working, then go by your gauge. What I did on a system I serviced just a couple days ago was pull off the electrical connector for the pressure sensor on the low-pressure side, and stick a paper clip across the terminals to keep the compressor from shutting off. Then I was able to monitor the pressure reliably as I added refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T00:41:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6466" CreationDate="2013-06-26T01:00:21.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much Googling and trying to interpret vague descriptions on internet forums, I have discovered that this is apparently the ambient temperature sensor, used to display the outside temperature on the center console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normally mounted in front of the radiator, in the center-ish of the front grill with a plastic clip. Unless someone has some information to the contrary, I don't think it's particularly bad for it to be lying there instead of being properly mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T01:00:21.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-26T08:41:08.427" Score="2" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is probably somewhat subjective as all cars are slightly different. I am currently in the process of looking for a new car. I'm currently driving a Vauxhall Astra 1.8 SRi (mk-5, 5 door model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am torn between getting a Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 petrol, and a Subaru Impreza 1.5R petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both have roughly the same HP (100 - 110), however the Subaru has more torque due to it's symmetrical all-wheel drive system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sort of in favour of the Impreza. I watched a road test on MSN cars which tested the handling and stability of a Subaru Impreza, Volkswagen Golf, Honda Civic and a BMW 1 Series. I have to say, based on what I saw, the Subaru wins hands down on handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my biggest concern is how reliable each car will be, and what to expect in terms of general maintenance costs (Timing belt change, oil change, filter changes etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that the Focus will provide lower maintenance costs as this is a more popular car and therefore, parts should be cheaper than the equivalent Subaru parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer any advice on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This is just one article that I've read which illustrates the good/bad points of the impreza (and compares it to a 1.6 focus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cars.uk.msn.com/reviews/on-test-subaru-impreza-15r-review-2007-onwards-model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cars.uk.msn.com/reviews/on-test-subaru-impreza-15r-review-2007-onwards-model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T14:00:42.487" Title="Advice on buying a new car (Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 vs. Subaru Impreza 1.5R)" Tags="|ford|maintenance|subaru|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-10-26T16:27:01.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6471" CreationDate="2013-06-26T09:19:25.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford will definitely be cheaper to run. Partly because, as you say, it is a more common car, and so parts are more readily available, but also because the Subaru has the flat-four 'boxer' engine, which is commonly known for being a pig to work on, as almost everything is inaccessible with the engine in the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Subaru will also cost more in fuel than the Ford. I was going to say 'but it'll be much more fun', but the linked article suggests that the 1.5 is too slow for that to count...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T09:19:25.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6154" CreationDate="2013-06-26T12:11:00.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number doesn't always match the engine size. A 320i has a 2.2L 6-cylinder engine whereas my 318i has a 4-cylinder 2.0L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try wikipedia page &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_%28E46%29#320&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3348" LastEditorUserId="3348" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T14:34:21.943" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T14:34:21.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6463" CreationDate="2013-06-26T12:41:03.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will note that most OBD software tools rarely display more than 4 or five outputs per view. I've also run into problems when trying to read too many values at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from experience, I would suggest working out a strategy for polling different values. For instance you really only need to poll&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle's speed every 2 seconds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM every 1 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel level every 30 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery Voltage every 5 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake manifold pressure, aka Boost Pressure every 1 second.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant temperature every 10 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine load every 1-2 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to poll things that change more often, more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you're in a car with an on-board computer, switch to instant consumption view and see how often the value changes. For my car, it's every second. I would say that one second is a great baseline because it actually allows you to read 9 PID's at 100ms each second without hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T12:41:03.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6478" CreationDate="2013-06-26T13:23:47.300" Score="3" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner has just started driving, and her insurance company have fitted a &quot;Black Box&quot; to her car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of these devices is somewhat vague, as some sites suggest that they only collect information about the car if it is involved in an accident, whereas other sites seems to suggest that they are wholly obtrusive in that they collect information on where you've been, how fast you got there, how much of a boy racer you became on the journey, and the Body Mass Index of each passenger you took. (okay maybe omitting that last one, it was just for the  sake of over-exaggerating how obtrusive they &quot;might be&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now since this is my partner's car, and therefore her policy, she tends to drive at the speed limit (religiously), although at times (such as overtaking), she may break this slightly, where necessary. Also as a new driver, her gear changes, braking and acceleration are still a little rusty and will do well with a little refinement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my car is currently in the shop, undergoing maintenance, I'm currently driving her car. I, unlike her, do not always stick to the speed limit, so for example if I'm in a 30 zone, my speedometer will generally state 35-40...lets be honest, where I live, I'd say about 20% of the driving population actually stick to limits. Also as I've been driving for 6 years, my gear changes, acceleration, braking and handling are much smoother than that of my partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, consider the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the EDR/Black Box detect a difference in driving style / different driver over a given period?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does the EDR/Black Box really record?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T12:07:39.600" Title="Automobile EDR / Black Box - What is it for?" Tags="|maintenance|sensor|safety|speedometer|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6471" CreationDate="2013-06-26T14:00:42.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were my money, I'd spend it on another Astra or even the 1.6 Turbo Corsa. But it's NOT my money, so I reckon the Ford is the better option economy-wise. I believe it will also provide greater sporty characteristics. I know that sounds counter-intuitive, but the Impreza 1.5R is actually a bit of a dog with all that extra weight thanks to the AWD system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T14:00:42.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6485" CreationDate="2013-06-26T17:21:37.357" Score="2" ViewCount="1635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX, automatic transmission.  There are 3 gear settings: 2, D3, and D.  If I'm driving in D3 and shift into D, I can feel it shift gears up (from 3 to 4), but then it immediately shifts up to 5.  If I slow down (with it still in D), it doesn't shift to 4, but instead stays in 5 and the RPMs get real low.  Hitting the gas again is very unresponsive (naturally, since it's high gear/low speed), but if I floor it, it'll drop down to gear 3.  It just doesn't seem to want to stay in 4th.  So when I'm going 55 mph in D, it's in 5th gear, and the RPMs are low (less than 2000).  Doesn't seem like that's good for the engine.  Is it a bad transmission, or can something just be re-calibrated?  Or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3349" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:14:38.390" Title="2001 Honda Civic LX won't stay in 4th gear" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2013-06-26T17:24:30.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your behaviour could affect her premium then - these black boxes typically track speed, style of driving, how harsh you are on acceleration and braking, the times of day you drive etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They collect this data all the time - some insurers collect data from them regularly, others only in the event of an accident - either way, if you do not stick to the driving requirements laid out in your insurance contract, you may face raised premiums, or in a worst case, no insurance cover at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T17:24:30.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6477" CreationDate="2013-06-26T17:44:57.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It look like if the torque converter is used ,his contained oil is too much fluid. This is normal maintenance, but this need to remove the gearbox frome the car, a bit tricky, need a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An expiremented guy can easily give you this diagnostic if he test the car by driving it. Ask someone for that before do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3312" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T17:44:57.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T00:53:52.917" Score="2" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my oil light come on in my 2004 Chevy Malibu.  This resulted in a visit to a mechanic (after putting 3 QTS of oil in it) to see if there might be something more serious than a leak going on. (Confession... I don't watch the oil as closely as I should but do have it changed every 3-4 months. It was about due.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the mechanic didn't do a thorough examination because his shop was full, he took a moment to check it out on the ground.  He didn't seem concerned by the oil leak but did see some grey metallic corrosion on the lower right side of the engine near the back. This seemed to greatly concern him. He said it was caused by the Dex cool coolant that's in the car having gone bad.  He basically told me the head gasket was going to blow in July because of the heat and that we should get a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later that day I also had a friend who is also a mechanic look at the car and said its fine, that if it was his he wouldn't get rid of it.  He admitted that he hadn't seen that kind of corrosion before however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how the car runs, there doesn't appear to be any issues that would signal that there was an engine problem without looking under the hood and seeing the leaks. The car drives smoothly and idles well. No strange sounds except a very light metallic tapping noise that seems to only happen when the oil gets low.  The engine has been running at a normal temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes grey corrosion on an engine? (You can pull it off the engine really easy and it falls apart in your hand as my friend found out.)  Is the car beyond hope?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T05:01:10.863" Title="What causes grey engine corrosion?" Tags="|cooling-system|oil-leak|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6480" CreationDate="2013-06-27T05:01:10.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm highly skeptical of the first mechanic. While Dex coolant is nasty stuff (if possible, I'd replace it with standard ethylene glycol antifreeze, but you should check with someone who knows GM vehicles first), I find the claim that it caused corrosion on the outside of the engine rather doubtful. The idea that the head gasket is going to blow because of the weather is also pretty ridiculous; the temperature inside the engine should be the same as it always is if your cooling system is working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, can you post a photo of the grey corrosion? Maybe someone here will have an idea what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T05:01:10.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6414" CreationDate="2013-06-27T05:31:18.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When discussing the &lt;strong&gt;Throttle Position Sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You understand it's function electrically on a 5v reference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were to take the sensor off and look at the side that goes against the throttle body then you would notice the coil. The inductive loop works as follows. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the butterfly of the throttle body opens (up until wide open throttle) voltage increases [as close to reference voltage value as possible (usually ~4.7v)]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the butterfly closes resistance is added to the circuit and in turn voltage will drop as close to 0v as it can safely [usually ~0.3v]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Failed Sensor Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conditions when the sensor fails this is what happeneds electronically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will not be able to set &quot;base timing&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surging will occur at Idle giving the same(ish) feel as a larger vacuum leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hesitation on acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible stalling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the systems can't &quot;plant its feet&quot; due to the fact that it cannot confirm throttle positionAp, and since throttle position is a very important factor this is where you will see faults in a variety of places. Not being able to see the throttle will make it impossible to set proper mixture, and seeing that the MAF &amp;amp; TPS are obviously not seeing &quot;eye to eye&quot; there's no way to confirm air volume. And with all that there's not a chance the exhaust reading will be correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to your last update .1v is what you're movement is. Something is wrong here. The sensor is either installde incorrectly or it's junk. Seeing that it's rest position [idle] is in fact .5v then I'm going to saw it's not installed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T05:31:18.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2013-06-27T10:02:21.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of them have a GPS reciever, accelerometers and a phone in them, and regularly upload data back to the insurance companies - some of the ones that have been featured on the TV in the UK come with online accounts so you can log in and see the performance data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never quite worked out how they are supposed to cope with multiple drivers in the same car. Are you a named driver on her policy (in which case they must know that multiple people drive the car), or are you driving it under an extension to yours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want one myself, I don't like the idea of being tracked by something that has no idea of context...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T10:02:21.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6477" CreationDate="2013-06-27T13:50:28.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested to know if it has a true 4th gear or if it's like the old Pontiacs with a torque converter lock that acts like another gear, while not really being one...  We had the torque converter lockup fail on said Pontiac with &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T13:50:28.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T16:34:46.863" Score="10" ViewCount="3397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Katana GSX600F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an accident I was in, I rode the bike home and all was fine except a little cosmetic damage. In rainstorm it tipped over and after picking it up and trying to fire it up, it started smoking slightly, so I turned it off and removed the gas tank, and noticed a wire was split and burnt. I replaced the wire, got it all put back together, and now the lights all come on and stuff, but does nothing when I push the start button. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve checked all the fuses and they are fine. I’m not sure where to go from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3353" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T20:03:09.810" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T23:25:30.497" Title="Suzuku Katana does not start after an accident" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starting|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:37:45.390" Score="4" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6444/2001-pontiac-grand-am-se-oil-in-the-coolant&quot;&gt;Previous question for context&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: My 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE had a flashing check engine light and I found oil in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A family member took the car to a mechanic this week. He checked it over and said that it was a problem with the ignition (which he fixed). As I didn't drop off or pick up the car personally, I don't know exactly &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; was wrong with the ignition, but I'm wondering if I should get a second opinion from another mechanic. It seems off to me that all that was wrong was an ignition problem, given that there was oil in the cooling system, and I don't want to drive around a car that could go at any time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T12:54:55.363" Title="Should I get a second opinion from a different mechanic?" Tags="|cooling-system|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6486" CreationDate="2013-06-27T19:53:56.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start from the beginning. Check your battery. Then check your fried cables. Try to fix as much as possible. Make sure nothing is short-circuited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all looks good, pull out the electric wiring diagram and identify all the items which prevents it from starting. Measure all these points and make sure there is no short/open circuits. The obvious would be: side stand and emergency break switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous would be first items you can check. If all of this fails, you will have to dig deeper. Anyway, this would get you started...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-28T05:37:52.143" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T05:37:52.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2013-06-27T22:16:10.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a pdf explaining how the maintenance minder works &lt;a href=&quot;http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/NV0707/NV0707G00016A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/NV0707/NV0707G00016A.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the &quot;due&quot; services are to be checked and performed if needed. If it recommended and air filter, but the air filter is not dirty. Then it is not to be replaced. The system cannot compensate for such conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about missing the service due to your trip or something happening to the vehicle during the trip. Then I would suggest having the vehicle inspected before your trip to ensure that there is nothing that is in need of attention and that the vehicle &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be OK for the trip. Also, just make sure to check fluids and pressures every (or every other) time you stop for fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-06-28T00:32:22.430" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T00:32:22.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6504" CreationDate="2013-06-28T03:32:26.823" Score="2" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike and didn't notice the previous owner had taken the rear shocks off (worst oversight I ever made, kicking myself now). I want to put some shocks on it, but I'm not really sure what I need. Looking in the owner's manual and at the old parts on eBay, it looks like it's just a simple eye-to-eye shock, but most websites are saying their eye-to-eye shocks are not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell what shocks are compatible with my bike, and do I need anything else to put them on? Do I need to order bushings or anything else to install them? What length do I need? It looks like stock is 12.5&quot;, can I go up or down from that to raise or lower the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T17:44:29.247" Title="What do I need to put rear shocks on my 1982 Yamaha Maxim XJ 750?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6500" CreationDate="2013-06-28T03:50:46.143" Score="3" ViewCount="2482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been advised by an experienced &quot;car guy&quot; to change the thermostat on my 94K miles 2005 Toyota Matrix, although everything seems to be fine at the moment. Everybody else is telling me to leave it be until there are problems. It it were easy I would just do it, but it seems like it is going to be a rather involved process, or I would have to pay someone to do it. &#xA;What do you think I should do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3354" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:19:26.743" Title="Change thermostat preemptively or wait for signs of problems?" Tags="|maintenance|toyota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T05:02:28.830" Score="11" ViewCount="16200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how to lock and unlock the doors of a 2010 Toyota RAV4 using the CAN bus via the OBD-II port. I have a microcontroller attached via an CAN controller and a CAN receiver, and I've written some firmware to capture and replay messages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I unlock the doors either via the key fob or the door button, I get a flurry of messages on an otherwise silent bus (key is out). However, replaying them does nothing. I suspected that it might be some kind of authentication issue, so I tried something less sensitive -- the headlights. Interestingly, when I replay the messages from turning the headlights on, the headlight indicator in the instrument cluster lights briefly, but the actual headlights do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I have several questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Should this be possible over the CAN bus exposed on the OBD-II port? I've seen sources saying that doors are controlled by a different, slower bus, but I've also seen devices advertised that will lock the doors when you reach a particular speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Are the other buses exposed in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Is there any way I can find out the meaning of the messages I've captured without paying vast amounts of money to Toyota?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3355" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T16:33:40.580" Title="Controlling door locks via CAN bus" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|locks|can-bus|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6497" CreationDate="2013-06-28T05:19:58.473" Score="1" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1990 Toyota pickup, and I noticed when I got stuck in some sand that only the passenger side back tire spins, while the driver's side does not. Any ideas why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3356" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T19:53:09.940" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T19:53:09.940" Title="Drivers side back tire not spinning" Tags="|toyota|differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6494" CreationDate="2013-06-28T08:53:22.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your handbrake may not be disengaging properly. I don't know the car, but if you have drum brakes, it may be that they were incorrectly set, which means your brake is always partially engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T08:53:22.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T10:18:38.493" Score="4" ViewCount="4547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been wondering about the correctness of the average MPG displays on modern cars. Mine in particular is a Renault Modus. What I did is fill the tank, drive around and then refill the tank to see how much fuel I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my calculations I made 557 miles (roughly) on 50 litres of diesel... which I agree is very good and comes down to roughly 50.6 mpg. (using the UK gallon here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The display, at the time of refuelling, was showing 53.4 mpg average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question here is, how do these displays work and how much off can they be? Is it expected to be a good 3 mpg off over a 550 miles trip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3357" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T13:05:06.993" Title="Car average mpg display correctness" Tags="|fuel-consumption|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6494" CreationDate="2013-06-28T12:05:26.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your truck is most likely equipped with an open differential. This is a normal condition. A few vehicles are equipped with what is called Posi-Traction, Sure-grip or locking differential. These differentials are equipped with internal clutches that spin both rear tires when moving in a straight line. When going around a turn the clutches release allowing the tires to turn at different speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T12:05:26.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2013-06-28T12:42:46.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were the guy who designed the electronics, I would make it impossible to do this via CAN-Bus simply because you get bluetooth adapters for OBD2 that someone standing outside the car could pair with and send the unlock instruction to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a safety hazard, so I wouldn't support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T12:42:46.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6492" CreationDate="2013-06-28T13:19:02.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may fall into the &quot;Automotive Urban Legends&quot; category. Many years ago it was advised to change your coolant every year. The coolant broke down and the corrosion inhibiters failed to control rust. Pieces of rust would clog radiators, heater coils and thermostats. With the advent of long life antifreeze service intervals have been extended. If your 2005 has never had the cooling system serviced I would suggest new hoses, a system flush, new coolant. If the coolant looks muddy or rusty I would consider changing the thermostat.  If changing the heater hoses is beyond the budget (some of these are vehicle specific and can get costly) do the upper and lower radiator hoses at the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T13:19:02.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6433" CreationDate="2013-06-28T15:16:53.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can apply all SI prefixes to meters. So a megameter would be one million meters or 1000 kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gigameter is 1000 megameters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Terameter is 1000 gigameters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Petameter is 1000 terameters etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gigameter and higher are usually only used in the context of space and astronomy because in normal contexts it is impossible to visualize or relate those distances. People don't simplify down 120,000 km to 120 Mm because of tradition and because their odometer reads in kilometres, and also because it is hard to relate to a megameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="14405" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T21:17:32.547" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T21:17:32.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6496" CreationDate="2013-06-28T15:29:34.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the computer's fuel consumption statistics don't actually come from the tank float. The consumption estimate comes from the injector duty cycle and fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer probably has a map or graph between duty cycle and fuel pressure which tells how much fuel the injector will spray at any given cycle and pressure. Using this it continually estimates how much fuel it has sprayed since the mpg calculator was last reset. It then takes this amount and divides it into the miles traveled since reset to give you the miles per gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely going to be inaccuracies in the graph between the expected fuel spray and the actual spray that occurred so the MPG estimate will never be 100% accurate but I wouldn't expect it to be anymore than 5-8% off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as previously mentioned when doing your own calculations you shouldn't use your entire tank capacity as the fuel consumption. It would be better to use the amount that you actually refilled. As long as you refill to the same point in the tank every time this should give you an accurate reading of mpg. Understand that you might not get the exact same fuel level each time though which means there will be slight error in this calculation as well but for all intents and purposes is accurate enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T15:29:34.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2013-06-28T15:36:21.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just remove it and leave it sitting in the garage hooked up to a 12v source and the insurance company will assume it is a low risk vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I am sure they track speed and acceleration but I doubt their systems are sophisticated enough to track the actual speed limit of the road you are on. I could be wrong since some gps systems can do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T15:36:21.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6491" CreationDate="2013-06-28T17:44:29.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find something used on eBay that will fit, but who knows how much wear it has had?  If you plan to keep the bike a while I would shell out for new, high-quality shocks.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Progressive-412-series-aluminum-body-12-1-2-shocks?sc=12&amp;amp;category=74265&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a link to some that say they work.&lt;/a&gt;  They should come with the bushings needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the price is pretty steep, but shock technology has advanced a lot in the past 30 years.  The bike will ride and handle noticeably better than it did when new.  I would recommend also rebuilding the front forks and filling them with a thicker oil than stock (I like Lucas synthetic 15 or 20 weight), for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older Japanese bikes are starting to become collectible, especially rarer models like the Maxim, as most people treated them as disposable when they were new.  I would hang on to that one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T17:44:29.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T18:19:30.467" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Jetta SE, 2.5L, seems to be burning quite some oil &amp;mdash; engine looks clean, and there are no spots on the ground, but I've already added a few extra litres of factory-recommended synthetic 5W-40 (I'm not changing oil overly frequently, hence several litres of top-up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the oil is to clean the engine, and suspend particles, where the smaller particles are suspended within the oil itself, and larger ones are filtered out by the oil filter, per my understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When the oil disappears from the engine, requiring a top-up, what happens to those smaller particles that were previously suspended in said oil?&lt;/strong&gt;  Do they burn-off, too?  Or are they left behind to be suspended in the leftover oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T16:28:29.993" Title="burnt motor oil: do suspended particles burn off, too?" Tags="|oil|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6509" CreationDate="2013-06-28T21:25:41.143" Score="1" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Acura TL-S.  I started it today (seemed fine yesterday) and it ran really rough.  I also hand a weird burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attached my OBD2 reader, and got the following data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0300 - Random misfire&#xA;P0301 - misfire cylinder #1&#xA;P0303 - misfire cylinder #3&#xA;P0304 - misfire cylinder #4&#xA;P1399 - misfire any cylinder &#xA;71-01&#xA;  1. Misfire cylinder #1&#xA;  2. Shift Solenoid value B malfunction&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions.  First, can the shift solenoid value malfunction cause the misfiring, and second, what is the shift solenoid value?  My initial Googling suggests its part of the transmission, but I wouldn't expect that to cause misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has about 157K miles and I've been doing all services (the service reminder just came on yesterday actually so it was due anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T15:09:11.253" Title="Shift Solenoid Value causing misfires?" Tags="|obd-ii|acura|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T22:15:37.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee, and I’m having 2.23 Amp draw off the battery when the key is off. Leave the door open 2‒10 min., and the battery is dead or not strong enough to start the vehicle. I go to the drive-ins, leave the radio on with the key on “Aux” position, drains the battery. I bought a new battery, and had it replaced. Running out of ideas as to what could be causing this draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3360" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-29T08:06:15.253" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T20:46:55.853" Title="Battery has a draw with key off" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6506" CreationDate="2013-06-29T15:09:11.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the shift solenoid is the cause or just another symptom.  I'm &lt;em&gt;guessing&lt;/em&gt; it's not the actual cause though.  Everything else could be explained by the car running too rich.  Perhaps a fuel pressure regulator failure or stuck fuel injector?  Bad batch of gas causing multiple injectors to stick open?  Maybe just a weak ignition coil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T15:09:11.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6433" CreationDate="2013-06-29T16:01:43.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is such a thing as a Megameter. And no, you shouldn't use it unless you're sure people know what you're talking about. Grammatically, the rule is to write 16000km as &#xA;&quot;sixteen thousand kilometers&quot;. not exactly shorter, but much easier to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T16:01:43.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6508" CreationDate="2013-06-29T20:46:55.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking some Jeep forums you should see about 50 milliamps of load with every thing off. This accounts for radio presets and various control modules. As others have stated while measuring the load pull the fuses one at a time. Your Jeep should have a fuse box under the dash as well a one under the hood. Grand Cherokees may include some courtesy lights under the dash, sun visors etc that may be staying on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T20:46:55.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2013-06-30T11:22:59.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three relays located under the ECU, within what should be a water tight ECU housing. &#xA;Apparently this is a common fault, and the relay contacts will often corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the relays is for the glow plugs, another relay is for the radiator cooling fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's quite likely that this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T11:22:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2013-06-30T12:12:39.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just beware of using a formula containing silicates in Japanese engines, this can cause water pump seal failure. Use distilled water. Do not use “de-ionized” water, it will scavenge ions back from your engine metals causing corrosion.  Most cars after 1998 that don’t have copper/soldered radiators can use Organic Acid Technology (OAT). If your car is older than that — beware, the organic acid can corrode away the solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-06-30T14:25:39.137" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T14:25:39.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-30T16:41:23.943" Score="9" ViewCount="4579" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an 91 Golf Cabriolet (Mk1), the fuse box is hidden behind the knee bar, and has no access hatch. I need to have a look at the top of the fuse box to see if fuse 19 (indicators) is broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to reach the fuse box in a comfortable way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T00:53:10.633" Title="How to reach the fuse box from Mk1 Golf Cabriolet?" Tags="|electrical|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T07:33:37.737" Score="1" ViewCount="3604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't decode vehicle VIN numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ZCFA1AD1202576571&#xA;ZCFA1AD1202576573&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried almost all databases what could I find, but no success. &#xA;I need to find the vehicle registration date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know another way how to find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3364" LastEditorUserId="14303" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T12:31:31.497" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T15:36:12.053" Title="Iveco VIN Database (Decode)" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T09:11:23.870" Score="15" ViewCount="26019" Body="&lt;p&gt;UK 61 plate, Ford Diesel Mondeo Estate, Econetic: clutch replaced at 31,800 miles; failure caused by 'driver style'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my car daily for commuting and for business. It's supplied to me as a company car under contract from a leasing company. I’ve had it from new and there are no other drivers. The car has been serviced at the correct intervals and at Ford garages. I haven’t had any issue with it to date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago my gearbox (manual) failed completely and without warning. I pulled up to the queue at a roundabout. When the queue started to move I could not engage any gears. There were no warning lights. Once at the side of the road I found I could engage gears with the engine off, but if I started it (clutch depressed) I couldn’t then change from the gear I was in. The car was immobile. I called my recovery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic arrived and looked under the bonnet. The clutch slave cylinder was leaking fluid badly. He told me that’s why the gearbox didn’t work – it’s what I’d kind of expected as the gearbox wouldn’t work when the engine was running because there was something wrong with the hydraulics. The following day I took the car into a Ford garage. After two days work, the car was returned with slave cylinder fixed and new clutch fitted since the old was 'badly worn'. The work was carried out completely without permission from me - the garage just did it. It’s now being claimed by the leasing company that the fault is entirely down to ‘driver style’. That the cause of the slave cylinder failure was through an overheated clutch. And the evidence on which I am supposed to accept this is a single photo of a clutch plate. This means it’s out of warranty and I’ve a £790 bill staring at me personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage just went ahead and did the work. In calls with them as the job was progressing they told me they'd got permission from the leasing company to go ahead - that was at the stage of removing the gearbox. I don't know what happened after that. What I do know is the business I work for was approached after I had picked the car, asking for permission to go ahead with the work - because it was clutch wear caused by 'driver style' - and that we'd be liable for the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not one to duck responsibility so if I'm responsible then fair enough. Problem is in 35 years of driving I’ve never worn out a clutch. I don’t ride my clutch or slip it at lights or on hills and I don’t drive with my foot on the clutch – anything like that. And I’d not experienced any issues with slipping, jumping out of gear, or changes in engine revs when I engage or disengage the clutch before this happened - it just came out of the blue. I can’t understand how I’ve caused it to happen. So you can understand my confusion at the accusation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me understand this better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand replacing the slave itself requires the gearbox is removed to gain access. Is it Ford practice, since the bulk of the work has already been done to replace a clutch, to always do so at opportunities like this? And would it be that the clutch would be replaced whether worn or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could an overheated clutch have caused the slave cylinder to fail? Or would it have been the other way round that a malfunctioning slave could have caused excessive wear on the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive the car using the speed limiter a lot – it’s a great means of keeping me from speeding. But is there anything about the way in which the speed limiter operates that could have led to excessive clutch wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use the auto-start feature. Could that have promoted excessive wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of all I feel outraged that I'm being held hostage. It's their word against mine. How can I prove it wasn't me that wore out the clutch other than say emphatically I've never done so before and doubt I would now? Is this just a garage seeing some easy money (the nature of the problem and the stage we are now at - the work is complete - means its nigh impossible to identify who or what is at fault) from a punter who doesn't usually use them (I normally use one very close to where I work - so they don't really care whether they piss me off). The whole thing stinks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at a loss over this. Any insight would be really helpful. Especially mechanical insights on the problem and whether its possible this was a poor clutch from the word go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:19:18.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T12:53:45.800" Title="Causes of early clutch failure EXCLUDING driver style" Tags="|ford|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6515" CreationDate="2013-07-01T09:16:16.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't find the vehicle registration date from the VIN, as the VIN is a manufacturer's number. You'll need to apply to the relevant registration authority for the country/state the vehicles are registered in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T09:16:16.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2013-07-01T09:33:20.607" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like they're trying to take you for a ride to me. I can't see how driving style could cause the slave cylinder to fail - they're separated by a mechanical linkage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also dispute that anyone could destroy a clutch with 32k of normal driving - I'd expect it to last at least twice that long. However, a leaking cylinder might cause contamination of the clutch plate, which might result in it needing to be replaced. I don't know about auto-start though. I doubt the speed limiter would affect the clutch at all, it should just cut the throttle when the requisite speed is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite common to replace a moderately-worn clutch when the 'box is off, as that saves removing the box again to replace it later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a lawyer, but I would have thought that if it was the leasing company who authorised the work, they ought to be liable to pay for it - You didn't give permission and were only contacted after it was done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T09:33:20.607" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2013-07-01T19:49:40.513" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common problem with the 2.5L engines in the 2.5RS are head gaskets starting to leak around 100,000 miles. This is why Subaru normally warranties the head gaskets until 100,000 miles. It isn't an urgent issue and will not cause any catastrophic failure, but It will leak oil. Unlike other cars that urge you to stop driving immediately when the head gasket leaks, the nature of the leak in the Subaru engine allows you to drive for quite some time before fixing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 02 2.5RS had a leaky passenger head gasket. I drove on it for 4000 miles before repairing it myself(required a weekend to do and pulling the engine out of the car. Experienced mechanics can do it in under 6 hours). I have had quotes from $1500-$2000 for 3rd party shops to repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at a car, be sure to ask about service history, especially head gasket replacement. If they have been replaced, you're good for at least another 100,000 miles. If you are looking at a car you found on craigslist, you can see the gasket seam about 6 inches in from the left and right edges of the motor. Typically if you see oil stains around/ontop of the seam, it could be the head gasket. Any Subaru mechanic would be able to point it out in 2 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compression test will help see if the head gasket is ok, but it can be difficult to do on your own, since you usually need to remove the spark plugs and thread the tester in their place. The spark plugs are on the side of the engine and therefore clearance can be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't need to worry about turbos or anything as the 2.5RS is normally aspirated and doesn't have a turbo. The engines are very strong and quite durable, aside from the head gasket issue. The 5 speed manual transmission also runs very well but will not handle the shock of a tuned motor pushing 300+ hp. The automatic transmission is equally durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, if you plan on keeping everything stock, you will have a fun to drive car that is very dependable. Even a head gasket leaking issue will not put a damper on your day, and will be worst you will probably ever see, if you even do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3367" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T19:49:40.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6505" CreationDate="2013-07-02T00:04:37.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no physicist, but I strongly suspect that the small metalic ( probably heavy metals ) particles melt at a much higher temperature than the oil, and aren't burning off in the same way your oil is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you need to worry though, your oil filter, provided you are changing it regularly, should be catching the particles that are big enough to build up in a way that would significantly shorten the life of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T00:04:37.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6505" CreationDate="2013-07-02T03:02:20.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The metalic particles that are not filtered by the oil filter remain in the system and &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; burn off. They usually build up at the bottom of the oil pan. Note that if these metallic particles are sucked up by the oil pump, which is very likely, it is very possible to cause damage to the pump as well as other internal components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T16:28:29.993" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T16:28:29.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="911" CreationDate="2013-07-03T09:56:27.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine starts to misfire (for obvious reasons). Unburnt fuel gets passed through the exhaust manifold and you'll start to smell it. In the worst case, you might have a fire in a part of the car where you don't want it (which is a soft way of saying you might burn to death).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've driven 20 miles + with a misfiring engine and nothing serious happened except for poor consumption figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T09:56:27.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6515" CreationDate="2013-07-03T10:26:16.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is typically on the sticker on the drivers side door or on a sticker on the door jamb. If it is missing the dealer can determine it by the VIN &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T10:26:16.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6114" CreationDate="2013-07-03T14:22:58.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same boat. I bought a 1990 320i convertible to learn fixing old cars while still having relatively reliable but not too complicated technology. (and living in Germany lots of spare parts and people who can help you out when you get stuck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the biggest work I did was to change the timing belt on the engine (6-cyl). It was my first time, took a lot of time but it was fun and very doable. Next item is changing the brake discs and pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T14:22:58.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-03T14:36:53.923" Score="4" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having trouble with my Corsa.  It sometimes just cuts out or does not want to start at random times.  I have had the car serviced, I have had the starter motor replaced &amp;amp; am now having a new fuel pump relay replaced.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was told today, that cylinders 2 &amp;amp; 4 have low compression.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What causes this to happen?  Do I have to have it fixed? I was told that it could cost me anything from R5000 - R10'000.&#xA;PLEASE ADVISE.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks&#xA;Benita&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3373" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-07-03T15:42:34.830" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T06:38:11.967" Title="Corsa Sport (2007) low compression cylinders 2 &amp; 4" Tags="|engine|compression|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-07-03T22:46:38.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried about it, consider a manual transmission as you can potentially push start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3375" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T15:09:26.380" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T15:09:26.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6535" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:51:33.870" Score="4" ViewCount="1531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a shade tree mechanic with an old car that's got a fair amount of rust on various fasteners (particularly in the under-regions). When I'm doing maintenance, I often like -- or find the need to -- replace those rusted bits with new pieces. The problem that I run into is that I don't know for sure what I need to buy until I take the thing apart and can look at the fasteners in detail. It would make life a lot more pleasant if I could have the things I needed on hand before disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed some correlation between dimension and torque as specified in my FSM -- in fact, there's a table at the beginning that gives the torques for bolts by diameter/pitch and grade -- but there's nothing like &quot;bolt 35 in this diagram is 12mmx1.25&quot; (because of course shops just have bolt bins), and not every bolt has a torque spec. Nor does the Haynes manual have specific info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I rely on the torque/size relationship? What should I do for fasteners with no torque spec? Is there another measurement, resource, trick, or rule of thumb that I'm not aware of that will allow me to be reasonably confident of purchasing the right material? Or should I just resign myself to afternoon bike rides to the Fastenal store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:40:09.500" Title="Determining the size/pitch of bolts and nuts before taking things apart" Tags="|maintenance|part-identification|nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2013-07-04T07:21:51.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll tell you why. Because a car manufacturer who tries to save $30 by not installing a rear-window wiper is not going to spend $100 to fit a new component to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, an industrious person may make a neat sum of money by making such a spring-loaded mechanical starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T07:21:51.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2013-07-04T07:26:57.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's why: your car's gearbox is set up to get the most out of the engine's limited power during city driving. If you rev into the 3000rpm+ range frequently while in town, you're not going to get great fuel economy. The best thing you can do is to try to get to top gear as soon as possible. My wife has an Opel Corsa with a 100BHp engine that gives me the same mileage as my 200BHp Astra turbo (which weighs about 600lbs more to boot). The reason is simply that the Corsa revs much higher than the Astra, so although it burns less fuel per stroke, it makes up for it by making more strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T07:26:57.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6526" CreationDate="2013-07-04T07:32:07.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that it is because you have bent valves or you may have blown a gasket. It shouldn't cost you more than R3000 to R5000 in the worst case. And that's just because whatever the reason, they're going to have to take the top off the engine to get at whatever's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in Cape Town, I would highly recommend AutoWorks in Milnerton. They did excellent work on our Astra and Corsa and they've got excellent after-sales service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as drake below mentioned &quot;There's also the possibility of blown rings, scored cylinders, or fuel washing out the cylinders.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T06:54:10.623" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T06:54:10.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6531" CreationDate="2013-07-04T09:45:57.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each manufacturer will probably have it's own system for them, unfortunately. For my 1970's Triumph, I had to get hold of a parts book for the car, then a separate Fasteners list to cross-reference from the OEM part number to the actual bolt size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can guess the diameter &amp;amp; pitch from the torque rating, you probably won't be able to guess the length...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of firms will use common sizes to reduce the number of different parts to stock, so once you've identified some of them it can be worth stocking up, which will at least reduce the number of trips...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T09:45:57.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2013-07-04T10:06:34.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They need to be taken out and cleaned. It's a relatively inexpensive job. Where I live, it costs halfway between a minor and major service for a small car. Best thing would be to ask them to do it the next time you have your car serviced to save on labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T10:06:34.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6547" CreationDate="2013-07-04T12:04:24.853" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an e34 from a friend and he said he uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_1502.html?Opendocument&amp;amp;land=GB&amp;amp;voilalang=e&amp;amp;voiladb=web.nsf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;liqui moly racing synth 10w-50&lt;/a&gt; for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic was quite surprised when I told him and said I shouldn't use that, instead use real car engine oil. Still my friend is also a mechanic with years of experience on BMWs...&#xA;I've read a lot about the topic and haven't seen any consensus about whether it is ok or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Areas of application from the description is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Specially developed for all-season use in street, off-road and racing&#xA;  machines as well as ATVs, scooters and snowmobiles operated under&#xA;  normal to extreme conditions. Exceptionally well-suited for use with&#xA;  or without a wet clutch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should I stick with it or switch to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3379" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T09:20:36.090" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T09:20:36.090" Title="motorcycle oil for m50B25TU (BMW E34)?" Tags="|engine|oil|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6545" CreationDate="2013-07-04T14:55:57.063" Score="3" ViewCount="114869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C3 which is giving me a headache. The problem is a recent one, and is basically that I can't start the car. The strange thing is that the problem only surfaces when I've been driving the car, shut it down and then tried to start it again (for instance going to the supermarket). And the likeliness of this happening depends on for how long I've been driving the car.&#xA;I'm usually able to start the car, but the other day I had been driving for an hour before making a stop and after that the car didn't want to start for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively sure the problem isn't the battery since the headlights, windows, radio and dashboard all work. It's not the alternator since the car always starts after some period. The engine doesn't stutter, the car accelerates normally and fuel mileage is excellent so I doubt its the spark plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the starter? Anyone ever had a similar problem and found a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #1&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone to a mechanic and he took the starter out, tried it with a car battery and it worked but was a little weak. So he dismantled it, cleaned up a few parts, lubricated others, tested connectivity with a ohm meter and then tested it again with the battery. It ran much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He re-installed it in the car, and we tried turning the car on/off a few times and it worked like a charm. So I drove home, and immediately tried to turn the car back on when I had parked but it wouldn't start. I've since tried again to start and it worked so it seems the same problem (not starting after running for some time) exists but it isn't the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this video (i.e not mine) where a person is explaining his starter problem with a Citroen C2, and the experience with when starting is exactly the same (loud clicking sound from engine compartment and all). Can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQSbCnhD83E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem has now started to happen even when the car hasn't been driven for a long time (i.e in the mornings). This kind of rules out it being exclusively due to something heating up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="3374" LastEditDate="2013-07-19T14:05:06.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T21:41:18.607" Title="Unable to start the vehicle depending on how long it has previously been driven" Tags="|electrical|starting|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6555" CreationDate="2013-07-04T17:38:16.600" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a new car, and fuel efficiency is important since I'm commuting 2 hours a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EPA and Canadian governments use different measures of fuel efficiency. I don't mean just the US/Imperial gallon thing. If I convert those, I get consistently lower mpg listings from the EPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we last bought a car in the US, which we have here now. So I'm unable to figure out what mpg we'll get from a car bought here given the EPA-listed mpg for our car, the real mpg for our car and the Canadian-listed L/100km for the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my real question is, have Canadian drivers managed to reach the government-listed efficiencies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T16:36:53.170" Title="Are L/100km figures reported by the Canadian government attainable?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-04T19:58:18.987" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coil may be getting hot, then it has to cool off before it will start again. Try replacing the coil pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3381" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T19:58:18.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6543" CreationDate="2013-07-04T20:13:51.010" Score="7" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;One hour drive from home with family.  Heat shield fell from 2007 Honda accord.  Both top and bottom halves of shield rusted from corner bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe to finish trip and repair tomorrow, or is the absence of the top shield an imminent hazard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3382" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T22:43:55.483" Title="Catalytic converter heat shield fell off .. Drive home or call tow truck?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-04T21:49:18.077" Score="2" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;My gas tank started leaking and left a rather large area covered in gasoline. What is the best way to remove the gasoline from the ground? This is pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I covered the stain in kitty litter and left it on for about an hour and removed most of it, but the stain still remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T23:39:53.180" Title="What is an effective way to clean up gasoline spill?" Tags="|fuel-system|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6541" CreationDate="2013-07-04T22:43:55.483" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lack of a heat shield is not an imminent hazard. You do want to take a few precautions. First do not park over any flammable objects such as grass, leaves trash etc. Don't place anything on the floor above the converter that may be damaged by the heat like a laptop, digital camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T22:43:55.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6542" CreationDate="2013-07-04T23:39:53.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try powdered laundry detergent. Sprinkle it on let it sit for an hour. Dampen it with hose. Scrub with a stiff brush and rinse it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T23:39:53.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-04T23:44:50.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine doesn't turn when you turn the key, the problem is definitely either in the starter motor itself or delivery of electricity to the starter motor, so possibly the solenoid. Fixing the problem is probably going to involve replacing whichever part is going bad, but when you find yourself stuck, if your vehicle is a manual you might be able to turn the motor slightly by rolling with the car in gear to get it to a different position, then trying to start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One question that could help further diagnosis: do the interior lights dim when you turn the key, like they would during a successful start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T23:44:50.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6537" CreationDate="2013-07-05T06:22:14.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go with the recommended oil. The manufacturer should know much more about the vehicle they designed than your mechanic friend. Here are the factory recommendations for the &lt;code&gt;E34&lt;/code&gt;. This covers all engine options that were available for the &lt;code&gt;E34&lt;/code&gt; chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Viscosity :&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cold climate:&lt;/em&gt; 5W-30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mild climate:&lt;/em&gt; 10W-30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Warm or hot climate:&lt;/em&gt; 15W-50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T06:22:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6539" CreationDate="2013-07-05T07:06:31.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to reach those figures, but you'll have to drive like an old lady and also stay mostly in top gear. You'll also need to coast your car as often as possible which is simply engaging the clutch when you go downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not practical, but those figures are attainable if you don't mind irritating everyone behind you in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T07:06:31.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-05T08:52:08.010" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please suggest me that how can i check before purchase that the used car is a stolen piece or need some repair in engine or other parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3385" LastEditorUserId="3385" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T10:05:39.987" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T10:05:39.987" Title="How can i sure that my purchased used car is not a stolen piece?" Tags="|old-cars|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-07-05T15:45:49.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2013-07-05T09:02:12.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you have to check the number plate and make sure is it original or fake. And you can also deal with a reputed dealer to buy a car if it is used or a new one and i can advice you to contact with Rustys Auto Salvage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3384" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T09:02:12.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2013-07-05T10:44:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traffic department or DMV (depending on your country) can tell you everything about a car if you can obtain its VIN  number (sometimes called the chassis number) and/or engine code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers should be on the car's body work somewhere. Usually under the bonnet or on the inside of the driver's door frame. For instance, a Vauxhall's might look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chassis/VIN: W0N0Txxxxxxxxxxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: C20LETxxxxxxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could phone them, give them the number(s) and ask them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;who the owner is, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether the car was stolen, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether the car has been scrapped, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether it has any unpaid fines,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether its license may be behind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the most important questions. But you can also find out its original colour, year of manufacture, model designation, etc. if you're concerned about being sold a base-model dressed up as a deluxe-model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T10:44:04.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2013-07-05T11:40:37.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US get the VIN number and go to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reports.carfax.com/1/vin-carfax-20/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CARFAX&lt;/a&gt; website — it’s not free, but it’s not prohibitively expensive, and it tracks vehicle’s complete history so you can find out if the car you are buying in Colorado was salvaged/scrapped in New Jersey due to hurricane Sandy for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3198" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T15:31:21.387" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T15:31:21.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6549" CreationDate="2013-07-05T13:22:32.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it directly from the licencing authority, Many countries have a variety of commercial 'car data check' type services that, for a small fee, will check the history of a vehicle from the VIN or registration/licence numbers, and will give you similar information to Juann's answer, and will also let you know if the car has any outstanding finance against it and whether it has previously been in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T13:22:32.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6539" CreationDate="2013-07-05T14:37:32.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/cars-light-trucks/buying/fuel-consumption-testing/2-cycle/18474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canadian fuel economy tests&lt;/a&gt; are rather optimistic, especially the highway numbers which only use relatively low speeds.  The highest speed in the highway test is 97kph, but the speed limit on twin lane roads is 110kph.  The latter speed requires about 1.45x as much power (power to overcome air resistance is proportional to the cube of velocity) to maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certainly possible to attain the fuel efficiency by driving like they do in the test, though this is not necessarily advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T14:37:32.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6539" CreationDate="2013-07-05T16:36:53.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to directly discuss Canadian situation, but to obtain more or less reliable numbers for real-world fuel-economy (more reliable the bigger the dataset for more popular models) one could use fuel consumption tracking site, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuelly.com&lt;/a&gt;. I am using that one because of the usable interface compared to couple others I had seen. It allows you to browse vehicles (cars and motorcycles as well) by brand and model, and further refine your search by the particular engine (so you don’t mix results of, say, vehicles with 4- vs. 6-cylinder petrol motors vs. Diesel or hybrid options) and year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, as of this writing, it lacks advanced data compilation features which would allow you to filter out specific generation of multi-generation models (Civic, Corolla etc.) or range of years associated with that generation, separate markets (NA and European Ford Escorts are very different, for instance), or combine model names and body styles that would be essentially the same car (Golf/Jetta/Bora/Vento for instance), given the same or similar version of the powerplant. But even the basic functions are enough to get a decent picture of real-world consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T16:36:53.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:40:53.843" Score="4" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently bought a 1968 Oldsmobile 442 with a brand new transmission put in it. The guy I bought it from said there’s about 1200 miles on it but a few weeks after I bought the car I got in it to drive and the car wouldn’t shift out of neutral. The clutch feels right but it just sits there. Anybody have any suggestions on what I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3387" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:29:26.533" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:29:26.533" Title="Transmission stuck in neutral" Tags="|manual-transmission|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:43:07.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This first thing I suspect is the shifter linkage. If it's come loose then it won't move the gears in the transmission. Pull the boot up around the shifter and inspect and or inspect from under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:43:07.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6575" CreationDate="2013-07-05T20:20:37.980" Score="10" ViewCount="3538" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car needs some work, but I don't like taking out too much debt and my savings are sort of depleted for the moment, so I need to do a little at a time. How can I prioritize the work that needs to be done? What I'd really like to know is, in general what types of things should be prioritized and what types of services can be pushed down the list? Are more expensive repairs likely to be necessary, or scams? Obviously &quot;the car doesn't work&quot; becomes Super High Priority, but what kinds of smaller items lead to the car not working faster than others, I guess is what I'm asking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specifics of my current situation are as follows, if it helps answer the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my local chain repair shop (since I don't have a preferred mechanic), it needed the following last time I had work done (with price quotes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake Manifold Gasket- $601.39&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant System Flush - $106.99&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission Flush Service - $119.99 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Steering Flush Service - $84.99 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel System Cleaning Service - $79.99 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Filter Replacement - $58.99&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strut Removal and Repair - $729.96 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computerized 4-Wheel Alignment -$99.99&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I am aware of the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires need replacing (I had a blowout and elected to replace only that tire instead of all four, promising myself I'd replace them as a set soon...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The parking brake has stopped working&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm about due for an oil change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 2004 Chevy Impala. I need it to last me at least, oh, five or six more years, so I do want to take care of it the best I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add: According to the test in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4032/3388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, my struts are okay, and according to the penny test, I have more than 2/32&quot; tire tread remaining, so neither of those are urgent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T04:55:27.497" Title="How to prioritize repairs?" Tags="|maintenance|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6560" CreationDate="2013-07-05T20:49:14.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safety Items should be the highest priority. Next on the list are things that if left unrepaired will become a safety issue or drastically increase the cost of the repair. Them would come the items that increase reliability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires (safety)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alignment (so you don't ruin the new tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parking brake (the odds of a rusty brake line will vary with location) safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;intake leak (I would first try some inexpensive stop-leak until you can get it fixed)more potential damage if coolant level is low enough to let engine overheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strut repair(I would move this above intake leak if the spring is broken) could be a safety item if it is broken or severely worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil change (if the oil level gets low enough it will damage the engine) add oil if needed until it is changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel filter (reliability) if the filter is plugged you may get stranded but it won't damage anything else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other fluid flushes (reliability)&#xA;The most important thing do between repairs is to keep the fluid levels up so that more damage doesn't occur. Of course this is subjective since we can't see the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T21:02:53.067" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T21:02:53.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6563" CreationDate="2013-07-06T01:27:39.207" Score="3" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove a long long way with my old car knowing I had to change the shock absorbers, and what needed to happen; happened. Something broke and I have now strange noise coming from one of the rear wheel (I will come back on that noise in another question). Usually I prefer to repair my old car by myself, both for fun and to save money. However, I have no idea what is the name and the purpose of the broken part. I will also need to drive tomorrow with the car, but wonder if it could be dangerous. Please look at the supplied picture and help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Hyundai Accent Gsi 2003 with a 1.6L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tcEC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="818" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-07-06T20:40:44.123" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T14:34:36.827" Title="Broken part, rear wheel, Hyundai Accent 2003" Tags="|wheels|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6562" CreationDate="2013-07-06T02:05:32.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be the stabilizer links which &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;transfer weight between the left and right sides of a vehicle when it&#xA;  turns, transferring some of the lateral force exerted in a turn to the&#xA;  opposite side of the vehicle, which allows the body of the vehicle to&#xA;  stay stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not dangerous to drive without it, but the ride will be less enjoyable :). The part cost between 8$ to 20$ and is really easy to change. I will do it tomorrow morning, I will come back if anything else comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1416964&amp;amp;cc=1415797&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1416964&amp;amp;cc=1415797&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The part is easy to change if you do not account for rust. I had to cut it because of that. However, the new part was installed in about 2 min. I advise that you change the part asap when it brokes. Because I waited, the part scratched the inside of my rim. The sound I talked in my question was caused by the scratching which happened mostly when I turned on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="818" LastEditorUserId="818" LastEditDate="2013-08-17T14:34:36.827" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T14:34:36.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5046" CreationDate="2013-07-06T05:38:14.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been owning it since last 5 years and this is a problem I face every year. But once I take it to the service center they cover the air filter with a plastic cover and that solves my problem for the rest of the season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T05:38:14.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6560" CreationDate="2013-07-06T06:10:07.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all the items in your list sound like scams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake manifold gasket: this one only matters if you're leaking oil or coolant (or worse, the two together) somewhere where they pass across the gap the gasket is sealing. You should get an explanation of WHY they think it needs to be replaced, since unless there's a real problem, it's something you can ignore indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coolant system flush: overpriced. You can do it yourself for $10. Shops should not charge more than 1/2 hour labor + parts (fluids) for it. Whether it's needed probably depends on what other issues are present. If you're leaking oil into the cooling system, then it does need to be flushed, but only after the leak is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transmission flush: always a scam. You may need to change the oil but there is never a need for a flush unless the transmission has been contaminated, which should never happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power steering flush: always a scam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel system cleaning: always a scam. All they'll do is pour a bottle of Seafoam into your gas tank. You can do that yourself if you want, but there's no reason to do it unless you have a problem you expect it to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filter replacement: not urgent, but should be done as scheduled maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strut removal and repair: sounds really early for a 2004 vehicle, but maybe. Do you have suspension problems you're aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alignment: should not be needed unless your vehicle has been in a minor accident.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for your other items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tires: important. Replace at least the one across from the one you already replaced (i.e. if you replaced front-left before, replace front-right). If your car is front-wheel drive, make sure the best tires are on the front. I'm not sure what the proper placement for a rear-wheel drive car is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parking brake: fix it asap. It's important for safety and to pass inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil change: you shouldn't hold off too long on this, but the safety items are more important. Oil change is easy to do yourself, but you can also find shops that will do it very cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T06:10:07.897" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6569" CreationDate="2013-07-06T00:46:16.353" Score="2" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a craftsman trimmer that I've not used in years.  I'm using semi-old fuel mixture so I definitely know that may be contributing but I think this happened when I was using it prior to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video I recorded of the problem.&#xA;Please any input is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/yWNnHRqjFF4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/yWNnHRqjFF4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3393" OwnerDisplayName="Joshua Rountree" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T20:49:34.643" Title="How do I troubleshoot an old two-cycle engine that stalls after idling for 20 seconds?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6573" CreationDate="2013-07-06T14:37:01.133" Score="5" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to learn how to repair paintwork damage on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone here who can provide me with step by step instructures on how to repair the following type of damaged paintwork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage can be seen on the left hand side:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaCiI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some closeups:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/63j28.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzzHZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WVRM2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNvrI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCUdS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KuoXj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T07:17:24.793" Title="Paintwork damage" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2013-07-06T15:45:48.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yikes! You'll get the best result from completely respraying. I'll admit to being too lazy to type up the whole process, but only because Google will literally give you millions of sites telling you what to do. The short answer is to sand it down, then respray, paying attention to doing every step thoroughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to get away with trying to only fix the trouble area. If paint damage is as big as that, you'll want to do the whole panel if you want a uniform finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch these as a start: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnYBhBbgvK8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Respray a car and color change DIY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-JFTnnZgBE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to patch rust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T07:17:24.793" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T07:17:24.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2013-07-06T20:49:34.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must drain the old fuel mix before doing anything, it can make a world of difference. Old fuel leaves nasty deposits that mess up the carb operation. You'd be well served to clean out the entire fuel system with carb cleaner and replacing all filters. Replace the spark plug while you're at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hopefully a clean system and new plug, and certainly fresh fuel mix and clean filters, try it again, it may work fine. If not, you may just need a minor carb adjustment. You typically need to locate the slow idle mixture screw. I'm not familiar with this engine, so the procedure may vary. Check the owner's manual, they should have a section on idle adjustment. One typically adjusts the idle screw so the engine runs fast enough to not stall, but not so fast the head turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T20:49:34.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6576" CreationDate="2013-07-07T01:31:32.353" Score="3" ViewCount="5639" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the lifetime of water pumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the water pump replaced 8000 miles age (around 2 years ago) when changing the timing belt. Today I showed my car to a mechanic for a noise that is coming from under the hood. This noise has been around for two weeks now. After checking the car, he mentioned that the water pump needs to be replaced. I told him that the water pump is fairly new and he blamed low-quality pumps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it possible for a waterpump to go bad after only 8K miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, during these two weeks the car has not overheated and I have not seen any leak. But the mechanic says he saw little coolant leaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: the water pump bearing was faulty (after 8K miles). I was told it was a low quality pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastEditorUserId="3161" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T01:39:35.847" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T07:34:44.613" Title="Water pump lifetime" Tags="|noise|hyundai|water-pump|elantra|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-07T07:29:24.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pulsar 150 bike modified with 180cc engine. I am looking for tyres(both from and rear). The tyre should have have good cornering capability and a very good grip. Till now I have. I looked at &lt;code&gt;Ceat Vertigo tubeless 100/90 R&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;michelin sirac&lt;/code&gt;. I want to know what do the numbers mean (100/90 R) and how should I go about choosing a tyre based on those numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-07-07T16:03:13.810" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T06:35:41.697" Title="Looking for Tyres for Pulsar 150 bike with 180cc engine" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6571" CreationDate="2013-07-07T16:07:16.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;100 is the width of the tyre in millimetres. 90 is the tyre sidewall height aspect ratio. This means that the height of the tyre is 90% of its width, i.e. 100 mm × 0.9 = 90 mm. So the tyre’s sidewall is 90 mm high. This refers to a 90 mm distance between road and wheel (if we exclude compression of the tyre by the weight of the bike and rider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And R means it is of radial construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, these numbers don’t really tell you about whether these tyres are suitable for the type of riding you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T16:05:45.117" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T16:05:45.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2013-07-07T18:32:07.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a badly oxidized clearcoat. The state the paint looks to be in pretty much means that the only cure is a respray. To make matters a bit more interesting, the paint looks like a silver metallic which is much harder to match than a plain colour and will require additional blending in into the surrounding areas like front wings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have never done any paintwork before, this is not something to start experimenting on, the result will look worse than it does now. Assuming the bonnet goes back onto a car, get a decent pro in instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the process, you're basically looking at the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the area to be painted, the old paint needs a good scuffing and you most likely have to do the whole bonnet. If it's already oxidised the rest of the paint isn't far behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find any dents, stone chips and other imperfections, treat them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the appropriate filler/primer coat over the existing paint to isolate it from the new paint and sand it. Most likely you'll find some additional dents or high spots, or you accidentally sand through the primer, so you'll repeat this a couple of times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray a couple of layers of the base coat. Given that it's a metallic paint, you have to be careful doing that so you get even coats and no areas with higher paint buildup because that will change the colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the paint to dry, then spray a few layers of clearcoat, again ensuring they're even, with no runs, dust inclusions, orange peel etc etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also will have to feather in the paint into the surrounding paintwork to achieve a gradual transition from one panel to the other, otherwise the newly painted panel will stand out like a sore thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the issue of paint, depending on your local laws you might not be able to either purchase the appropriate paint or spray it yourself depending on its toxicity. You also really, really don't want to spray two pack paint that uses isocyanide hardeners without full respiratory gear and hopefully in a paint booth with appropriate filters. That stuff is really, really bad for your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T18:32:07.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2013-07-07T18:50:27.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap waterpumps - like any mechanical component - can fail quickly, sometimes this happens. Do you have a warranty on the replacement pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are you certain that the water pump has been replaced? It's not too uncommon for some mechanics to skip the water pump replacement because the pump &quot;still looks good&quot; only for it to fail shortly after the timing belt replacement. At that point you get to do both again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T18:50:27.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6560" CreationDate="2013-07-07T20:44:32.887" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat: this is your vehicle.  Please consider our opinions as such and make the best decision that you can.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I would group things &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; considering price.  I'll try to be guided by your &quot;about five more years&quot; and your climate (assuming that NE Ohio is roughly equivalent to central Indiana &amp;lt;- where I spent six years of graduate school).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that would worry me if this were my car and I was trying to keep it functional if not gorgeous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parking brake: I think this needs to be fixed right away.  Brakes need to work, period.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil change: don't skimp.  The car won't last if you cheese out on oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire wear: if you have a pencil's width worth of tire tread left, I'd worry less about snow and deep puddles.  If you're checking to see how much of Abe's hair you can see (the penny test), there's a good chance that you need new tires.  You might be able to keep the blow-out replacement around as a full-size spare.  &lt;em&gt;Insert your best judgment here.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next on my list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strut replacement: if these are original struts, there's an excellent chance that one or more are completely worn out.  If so, you'll have a progressively worse ride and increasing tire wear.  This will be super annoying if you've just replaced your tires.  FYI: I've replaced the struts on both of our cars (about the same age as yours).  It was a full day's work on each (i.e., expect a significant charge for labor) and there were two dead struts on each sides (oil leaks, wouldn't expand after compression, etc).  &lt;em&gt;I had fun doing it but I'm a weirdo.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment: If you're replacing your struts, you're going to need a new alignment.  Too many things get taken apart and reassembled: increased tire wear and sub-optimal handling will be the main consequence if you delay too long after the replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the &quot;I don't have enough information&quot; portion of our show:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake gasket: this is a puzzle.  How does the shop know that this is a problem?  For example, if the oil and coolant are mixing, they should be able to show you.  Normal coolant should look like lime-ade (colored but relatively clear).  Anything else is bad in the long term if not fatal in the short.  I doubt that you'd pass emissions, though.  I did research the replacement on your car: this is apparently a daunting task so labor charges apply again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant flush: if gunk is getting in your cooling system, it needs to be flushed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission, power steering, fuel system, fuel filter: what's the motivation for these?  Are these just scheduled maintenance?  Or are there some symptoms motivating this work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with respect to cost, some of these numbers do seem kind of high (e.g., coolant flush).  I would normally expect scheduled maintenance items to be rolled up into a discounted charge (which didn't seem to happen here).  It's hard to make a specific suggestion on a second opinion but I'll take a stab:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find out if the local tire vendor does general service as well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? The vendor is motivated to give you a good overall price because they want to sell you product as well as services.  If you go in saying that you're considering purchasing four new tires and four new struts, you're pricing out a major sale.  If you also make it clear that you're looking for a shop that will handle some other items on your mind, they might be strongly inclined to negotiate on price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This has worked for me in the past.  The tire vendor just down the road has received our active recommendation because they (a) do good work and (b) aren't sexist jerks to my wife (sadly, this is still a concern).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T12:24:39.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T12:24:39.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2013-07-07T21:55:14.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lifespan of a replaced waterpump  will vary with quality. You have no way of knowing what type of pump you paid for. Was it a factory new pump, an aftermarket new pump, rebuilt pump or remanufactured pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Factory pump is an exact replacement of what the car came with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High quality new aftermarket pump may include improvements to the original design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low quality new pump, may be a cheap knock-off with poor quality seals, poor quality control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remanufactured pump, the used pump is disassembled cleaned inspected then assembled with new bearings, seals, gaskets and possibly a new pump shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebuilt pump, the used pump may get new seals, may get new bearings and shaft anything that is serviceable is reused.&#xA;Two years doesn't seem like a very long life to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T21:55:14.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-08T10:10:07.760" Score="2" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle's front brake is giving a irregular bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to express it in words please check the illustration below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;--------$^^^^^^^^-^-^-^-^-^^--^^^---^^^^^^----^^^|&#xA;~60Kmph          30kmph         20         10  0kmph &#xA;&#xA;- : No brake/bite&#xA;$ : applied front brake&#xA;^ : bite&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front feels as if it is jumping up and down when the brake is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No problem with rear brake. This started after a ride in heavy rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it an alignment problem of the disk or wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or something like disk bend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3292" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T07:09:53.493" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T14:52:29.073" Title="Motorcycle: Irregular brake bite (front single disk)" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2013-07-08T13:06:51.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water pumps are expected to last at least as long as the timing belt change interval.  It's a relatively cheap part in a high labor location, so it's common to replace it with the timing belt just to potentially save on labor later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't fail so rapidly, however, it is possible.  Bad parts and early failures do happen sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T13:06:51.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-08T12:21:22.540" Score="0" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the movie &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1904996/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parker&lt;/a&gt; Jason Statham/Parker steals about 4-6 cars in the movie. Every car he steals he starts the engine by messing around with the wires under the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it that easy to start an engine in several car brands just by using the wires? Why are the wires easy to mess with in the first place?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3400" OwnerDisplayName="Songo" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T13:42:21.820" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T19:52:04.227" Title="Is that easy to start a car like in the movie Parker?" Tags="|starting|security|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6582" CreationDate="2013-07-08T13:19:08.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you literally mean to ask if it is that easy to start an engine by touching some wires together beneath the steering column, then yes it is, if you know the correct wires to touch together, and you can get at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean to ask if it is that easy to steal a car, by just casually reaching under the steering column, blindly yanking a handful of what you can grab, quickly producing two or three bare tipped wires, touching them together, and driving away... then no, it is not that easy.  Although it is possible to &lt;em&gt;START&lt;/em&gt; a car this way, you still face the problem of the steering wheel being locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you could steal it by starting it that way, and driving away only in the direction that the wheels are pointed... but your getaway would be rather short I'd imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can expect that in movies you will not be shown things like everything necessary to easily hotwire a car, or build a bomb, or hack the National Defense Grid, because Hollywood doesn't want to end up being responsible for when people then turn around and use what they learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bon Gart" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T13:19:08.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6587" CreationDate="2013-07-08T19:31:16.753" Score="5" ViewCount="2678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1991 Honda Accord with three brake lights, one on each side and one in the rear window. For reasons I have yet to discover, I can't get the right brake light and the window brake light to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the brake light fuse ( and I doubted it was a fuse issue any way since at least one brake light still works ), and the fuse is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake light switch appears to be good, again, one of the brake lights works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried replacing each bulb twice with the correct bulb and I've cleaned the connectors, and stil no dice. Can anyone suggest what I should try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T16:06:52.150" Title="1991 Honda Accord with intermittent brake lights" Tags="|honda|tail-lights|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6582" CreationDate="2013-07-08T19:52:04.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before the advent of engine immobilisers, the typical attack was to pop the door open, pull hard left and right on the steering wheel (one or two people) to break the steering lock, followed by either using a screwdriver to turn the lock barrel or to short circuit the live wire from the battery to the switched wire to the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be done in a few seconds. Lots of cars got stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immobilisers really help - now the easiest way to steal a car that has an immobiliser fitted is to lift it onto a truck and drive off. Actually, that is the second easiest way - it is easier to break into the house and steal the keys - which is why &lt;strong&gt;You should not leave your keys on that shelf near the front door!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T19:52:04.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6579" CreationDate="2013-07-08T21:04:34.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have a warped brake rotor and/or brake pads. A warped rotor will grab the pads intermittently in the way you're trying to describe. In all likelihood replacing your brake rotor and brake pads will fix the issue. Be sure to replace both components, one or the other doesn't usually get you anywhere: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Should_you_replace_rotors_at_the_same_time_as_the_brake_pads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Should_you_replace_rotors_at_the_same_time_as_the_brake_pads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T21:04:34.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6584" CreationDate="2013-07-08T21:26:31.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Break out the multimeter. Start at the bulbs. Verify the ground is good and then and work your way back towards the fuse box looking for an open as long as the wiring is accessible (Have a friend / brick depress the pedal). Assuming you haven't found the trouble spot, move to the fuse box and go the other way. If you're lucky the problem will be where you can get at it. If not, it will be after the wiring you're interested in has disappeared into a thick bundle and / or gone under the carpet. Before you tear out the interior, figure out how the center and right lights are wired and how the wires are routed. You're probably looking for one fault that took out both circuits. Hopefully that narrows down what you have to remove. If you determine the fault is likely in the middle of a a thick bundle of wires, consider just running new wires instead of tearing the harness apart. Good luck.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth checking the brake switch with a multimeter. You know it's completing once circuit, but what about the other two? I guess it depends on how it's wired. Check the wiring diagram.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't assume the bulb sockets are good. I've chased intermittent problems that survived many scrubbings with cleaners and applications of dielectric grease that were resolved by changing the socket. If it's discolored due to heating, strongly consider changing it, especially if you can get a replacement for a decent price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T18:51:30.787" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T18:51:30.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-08T23:04:48.973" Score="3" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of very nice dial calipers that display marks every 0.001&quot; and can be used to round to the nearest .0002&quot; accurately.  How should I go about centering these so that they are as accurate as possible?  When just using my eyes there is a fairly apparent amount of error because of parallax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T12:24:39.387" Title="How should I go about zeroing dial calipers?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6591" CreationDate="2013-07-09T05:04:41.003" Score="3" ViewCount="7032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Infiniti G35 and the bank 2 catalytic converter has triggered the check engine light. If I replace it with a universal Magnaflow catalytic converter (approximately $100) will the check engine light come back on? According to the mechanic who diagnosed it, the existing cat is CA compliant. The universal cat is 49 state compliant, no CA. I live in CO. Also, Magnaflow has an exact cat replacement (approximately $600) which is also only 49 state compliant. I asked around a few mechanics and didn't get a good answer. I just don't wanna replace it and still have the check engine light on, since that will automatically fail the emissions in CO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T03:39:29.023" Title="Will a universal catalytic converter set off the check engine light on an Infiniti G35?" Tags="|cel|emissions|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6603" CreationDate="2013-07-09T09:31:51.817" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially after a good cleansing when there is no visual signs of a spil, I found it hard to detect problems with oil leaks/levels.&#xA;Usually I can feel low levels in a rear mono suspension when driving it. But front suspension is very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:58:25.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:58:25.527" Title="identify suspension leak on motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2013-07-09T10:52:37.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newer cars (1996 and later) have additional catalyst agents than the old cars had.  $100 sounds like one of the old car cats.  $500-1000 is more in the ballpark where the newer cats are &lt;em&gt;typically&lt;/em&gt; found.  Will an old cat keep your light off?  Perhaps.  Perhaps not.  Is it a &lt;em&gt;legal&lt;/em&gt; replacement, no, not from what I remember of the federal code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T10:52:37.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6588" CreationDate="2013-07-09T12:24:39.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a locking screw securing the bezel of the dial.  If all you're trying to do is calibrate for zero, you should be able to close the jaws (don't force it), loosen the locking screw and rotate the bezel until the zero and the needle line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a more useful calibration, you're going to need to check other non-zero measurements.  That will give you some other fixed points from which you can derive a linear model of error over the full measurement range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T12:24:39.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6607" CreationDate="2013-07-09T17:06:27.687" Score="3" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running 4awg wire to my car's 400watt amplifier.  The wire is running about 10 feet from the circuit breaker that it is connected to.  The circuit breaker (as of now) is connected to the car's battery via about 18 inches of 6awg wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about using 6awg wire between the battery and the breaker - or since it's so short will it be ok?  All of the wire I'm using is pure copper welding cable from TEMCo, not the aluminum stuff you get in Amazon and eBay kits.  That gives me peace of mind but I want to make sure that this is not a bad way to set up the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the amp is only going to use about 33amps at max, but I want to be sure that it won't cause any problem in the long run... (Pun intended) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:14:37.673" Title="Will low gauge wire to a fuse be a bottleneck?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6596" CreationDate="2013-07-09T18:48:06.040" Score="2" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealership tells me I need a rear wheel caliper repair.  Estimated cost of $500.  Is this reasonable?  I have Toyota Highlander 2003 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3406" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:07:16.350" Title="What is a fair price for caliper repair?" Tags="|wheels|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2013-07-09T19:22:27.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that they charge a much more expensive price than anyone else would charge for the part. Also, they are most likely much more expensive labor rate than any shop that works on Toyota. So, in terms of a dealership price, it sounds like what I would expect to hear for the job.. The labor on the job is likely to be somewhere around 3.5 hours so if they charge 90 and hour then this would be $315 of that $500 bill that you're looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; a caliper replacement? They should be replacing both rear calipers (although it's not a must, it is considered goot practice). they should also be replacing the rear pads and also rotors (if they've been damaged from the caliper failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T19:22:27.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2013-07-09T22:00:23.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the return policy? If it doesn't work, can you get a refund? If so, you might give it a shot, if you're not paying anybody to put it on. If you are, shop around for the cheapest estimate where they'll guarantee the repair. You don't want to pay for labor to find out the cheap cat doesn't work. A factory part should be guaranteed to work, but that will probably give you sticker shock unless you can get it wholesale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you start messing with replacing the cat, are you sure your O2 sensors are good? Did the mechanic scope them? If it was me doing driveway diagnostics, I'd be tempted to swap O2 sensors between banks and make sure the fault didn't hop to the other bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T22:00:23.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6594" CreationDate="2013-07-09T22:41:31.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;18 inches doesn't seem like enough length to be too concerned. Most sources back up your assumption that 12 volts x 33 amps isn't a problem for 6 awg wire at only 1 or 2 feet. The charts below suggest you would only run into problems past 10 feet at 6 awg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind though, electricity can be unforgiving. Insufficient wire could have dangerous and deadly consequences if you get it hot enough to cause a fire. So, just be careful out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/audio-alarms/62425d1235669252-wire-gauge-ampacity-table-wiringdiagram.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/audio-alarms/62425d1235669252-wire-gauge-ampacity-table-wiringdiagram.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/documents/730/12V_cable_maximum_amps.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/documents/730/12V_cable_maximum_amps.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T22:41:31.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6290" CreationDate="2013-07-10T04:46:25.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has power locks, typically all locks can be unlocked without a remote by unlocking the driver's door with they key twice in quick succession. The locks for the other doors will unlock then if it has power locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T04:46:25.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-10T04:52:48.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm American, so not familiar with this car, but in many cars I have worked on some kind of computer often controls the starter. In most modern cars I've worked on, I've seen similar problems such as yours be the under hood 'fuse box' that has a built in computer/controller. I've also seen it be a bad relay in that fuse box or a relay box close by if it has an external relay. Typically, I've been able to diagnose it by tapping on whatever component when it is not starting while somebody else held the key in the start position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T04:52:48.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2013-07-10T04:58:13.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, yes. Unfortunately, these cheaper alternative catalytic converters are often not efficient enough for the modern systems in cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the important elements for catalyst efficiency is platinum - that is why good ones are often expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T04:58:13.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6590" CreationDate="2013-07-10T15:17:08.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no visible leak but the suspension still feels hard, it sounds like your motorcycle's suspension is not properly calibrated to your weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/adjust_motorcycle_suspension/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ref: How to Adjust Motorcycle Suspension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T15:17:08.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6605" CreationDate="2013-07-10T17:04:33.157" Score="2" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am obliged to have my rear fog light on the left side, but it is on the right. I've never fiddled around with my Fiat Punto '94, but I'd like to make the switch myself, if you don't advise against it. Could you provide an outline of switching the side of the rear fog light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3411" LastEditorUserId="3411" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T17:33:24.440" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T21:03:21.147" Title="Could you provide an outline of switching the side of the rear fog light?" Tags="|lights|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2013-07-10T18:43:52.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fog lights are physically different to 'ordinary' ones, you will have to swap bulbs and wires - my assumption is that the reversing light is in the equivalent position on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your light housings are transparent, then this is as simple as opening up the housing, swapping the bulbs over and swapping the wires over (either in the boot/trunk or under the dashboard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the boot - remove the little plastic cover near the roof and pull the cloth lining away towards the bottom of the boot. There is 1 nut behind the top one and 1 behind the bottom one. Use a socket set to remove them. Then you can just pull the whole light assembly off. The wires are connected by a clip, so you'll need to pop this off to get the whole light assembly off. Once it is off, just unscrew the 4 or 5 phillips screws to get at the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately on a 94 Punto the shells are generally tinted, so it won't be as easy. If you swapped the bulbs then the reversing light would end up red, which is probably going to breach driving regulations where you are (in the UK it is illegal) so you need to buy new shells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T21:03:21.147" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T21:03:21.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6608" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:14:30.207" Score="6" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for a guide, but haven't found anything the deals with the oil seals specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My '09 Honda Rebel is leaking oil into the flywheel cover, and I suspect the flywheel and crank shaft oil seals are to blame. It's been suggested that as long as I can pull the flywheel off, I should be able to remove the crank case oil seal with a pick tool and push the new one in. Is this true? What other steps or gotchas should I be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T10:40:49.233" Title="What's the proper method of replacing the crank shaft oil seal of a Honda Rebel?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6594" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:14:37.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; chart. 8 gauge is sufficient for 400watts rms for 8 feet. so 6 gauge should be perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be extra sure then you should do a voltage drop test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start and run the vehicle playing music at the max you would listen to it.&#xA;Measure the voltage across the battery terminals and record the reading.&#xA;While keeping the negative lead still attached to the negative of the battery measure the voltage at the positive terminal of the amplifier. Record the reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subtract the second reading from the first reading to get the voltage drop. If the drop is significant. eg. 14.3v at battery. 13v at amp then you might want to upsize the cable. If it is more like 14.3v at battery 14v at amp I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you don't want the amp to see less than 11.2v approximately. A very low battery level would be 11.8v so a .6v drop is probably pushing it. .3v drop is probably safe though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:14:37.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:29:09.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this for full size engines so I don't see why you couldn't do it with a motorcycle. As long as you have access to the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use a seal puller&#xA;2) Find a big socket or piece of pipe to put over the new seal to press it in.&#xA;3) Put oil on seal/shaft before re installing pulley/sprocket back over crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video on a car &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/fkmFa9KFDoA?t=2m34s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:29:09.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-11T04:59:50.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the start has been checked and/or cleaned/rebuilt then you shouldn't worry about that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The starter relay shouldn't be an issue, I've never seen one fail &quot;sometimes&quot; It's only actuated when vehicle is being started so you can rule out it being affected by heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery/Charging can be thrown out since everything works (but you should still have had the mechanic test properly it to be positive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(How about we try diagnosing the problem. Instead of just pointing fingers at parts.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's have a look at he &lt;code&gt;Starting System&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have an extra key for the vehicle then please attempt the start the vehicle with spare/extra one.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If second key works perfectly then first replacing the key battery in the key that's malfunctioning, if battery does not work then have the key replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I you do not have a spare key. &lt;strong&gt;manually&lt;/strong&gt; unlock the drivers side door with the blade before getting into the vehicle.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this allows the vehicle to start and you do not have a spare then try replacing the battery in the key and see if it fixes the issue. If it does not have the Central Locking System checked for proper functionality and if it is OK then replace the key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt;; the key has no relevance to the issue and the vehicle still will not turn over...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check what gear the transmission is in (or thinks it is in).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the key in the 'ON' position what the &lt;code&gt;Instrument Cluster&lt;/code&gt; displays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the vehicle is &lt;em&gt;clearly&lt;/em&gt; in the park position by the position of the &lt;code&gt;Gear Selector&lt;/code&gt;. And the cluster says otherwise place the &lt;code&gt;Gear Selecter&lt;/code&gt; into &lt;code&gt;Neutral&lt;/code&gt; and attempt starting it again. If this allows the vehicle to start. Then you're looking at a possible &lt;code&gt;Neutral Saftey Switch&lt;/code&gt; issue, or Gear module, or even a simple adjustment of the NSS (if it's adjustable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastley, Has anyone checked for any Diagnostic Trouble Codes? If so, what came up? If not, have it checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T06:34:32.513" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T06:34:32.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-11T08:04:13.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The loud clicking sound you hear is probably a relay clicking open or closed (depending on if it's a N/O or N/C relay, but that's not important). This means that the problem is somewhere downstream from wherever the relay is, between the relay and your starter motor. You'll probably need to get an auto-electrician to have a look, as opposed to a regular mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My money is on a bad wire or connection somewhere. Heat will cause extra resistance, which may in turn cause too little current to flow where it should. But let an electrical expert give it a once-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T08:04:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-11T12:40:46.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, problems that only occur after the car has been running for a time are usually related to heat - Something, somewhere is getting too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've got a clicking sound, there must be a relay working as mentioned above, however this could be a red herring, as there are several relays activated when you start a car (e.g. there is one controlling the fuel pump). Can you tell where the clicking is coming from? Get an assistant to try and start the car while you listen to identify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, they key noise you're after is a single loud click from the starter, as the solenoid engages. If you get that, then it's the starter not working, otherwise it is either the solenoid or the power feed. To test the latter, connect a voltmeter to the trigger feed on the solenoid (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter). This should be 0v before starting, and 12v while the key is turned to the start position. If it is, then the solenoid is failing (bear in mind that, as it's working when cold, it could easily have been fine when your mechanic bench-tested it, but still fail when hot...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not getting 12v to the solenoid when the key is turned, then the problem is in the supply feed. The traditional way of testing this would have been to attach a wire to that connector, then touch the other end to the battery positive and see if the starter turned, but I don't know if that's work on a modern computerised car, so I won't advise it. You'll then have to trace the wires back into the system, looking for anything that might have a loose or dodgy connection, a missing or loose heatsheld on a component, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were a betting man though, my money would be on an overheating starter solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T12:40:46.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6617" CreationDate="2013-07-11T14:51:40.870" Score="5" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let say I directly connect a small engine to my bicycle, and that I'm superman who can overcome any force.&#xA;Then I start cycling (using my legs...) - the engine starts to rotate, even though I haven't &quot;started it&quot; using the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that if I press the pedal (or whatever) of the engine, it will apply force? Either on a diesel or a gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question: Lets say I'm driving down a hill in a relatively high speed in a car, and I'm not pressing the gas pedal at all. Does the engine burn fuel at all, in both diesel and gas? If I (while in gear) turn off the engine, will something actually happen? If I would press the pedal after turning it off (while it still rotates) - will it apply force? (in both diesel and gas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, while driving, I disconnected the idler (i.e the engine won't apply any force if I'm not pressing the pedal at any RPM and pressing the clutch will take it to zero RPM) and press the brake until I get to a complete stop, will the engine &quot;stall&quot;? If I'm doing it in a hill facing down, after releasing the brakes I'd accelerate and the engine would gain RPMs, will it be able to continue applying force?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: What's the difference between a &quot;running engine&quot; and one thats not running, assuming both are rotating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if I'm asking too much so if you would at least explain the principle I'd be very happy. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3112" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T23:56:06.957" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T22:13:31.987" Title="Does the a gasoline or diesel engine supply fuel at high speeds when not pressing the pedal and more" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|engine-theory|diesel|stall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6615" CreationDate="2013-07-11T15:21:15.807" Score="11" ViewCount="2606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Dodge Avenger SXT. Recently, I had a collision with an inanimate object which damaged my front-right tire and rim and also caused some very minor body &amp;amp; paint damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after the accident, I put the (not full-size) spare tire on and drove the rest of the way (about 50 highway miles) home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, I had my insurance company look at the car and provide a quote for repairs. Unable to immediately afford proper repairs, but still having a very drivable vehicle, I put them off for about three months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I replaced the damaged tire with a used one and continued to use the car as my daily driver. I drive about 300 miles per week to get to work, plus occasional errands. During this time, the car drove very normally - if I hadn't been in the accident myself, I probably wouldn't have even realized I'd had one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week, I took the vehicle back to my insurance company so that they could send it off for repairs. The shop took care of the paint &amp;amp; body work, replaced the used tire with a proper new one, did some repair work to the rim, and also did a four-wheel alignment. After the repairs however, I've noticed the car pulls &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; strongly to the right under heavy acceleration. It only pulls &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slightly under light acceleration, and not at all at a steady speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insurance company is claiming that this is caused by &quot;torque steer&quot;, which is inherent to FWD vehicles. However, I never experienced this with the car until &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; having it repaired. Additionally, while my car is still in the shop, I'm currently driving a near-identical rental vehicle (2013 Avenger, base model) which does not exhibit the same symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the insurance company send the car back to the shop for another look, but the shop said there's nothing wrong. We suspected a contributing factor might be the new tire, but they say the difference in tread depth is negligible (the old tires only have around 8 months and about 16,000 miles - mostly highway - on them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I the crazy one here, or is there something the shop is probably missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T01:36:08.070" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T14:48:42.330" Title="What could be a likely cause of unusual &quot;torque steer&quot; after repairs?" Tags="|tires|dodge|damage|avenger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2013-07-11T15:41:41.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will explain it for an EFI engine with a manual transmission because it might not be as straight forward with a carbureted engine or automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ease of explaining this I will consider the engine as &quot;on&quot; whenever the ignition switch is set to the &quot;on&quot; state. This means that the ECU is on and is monitoring the engine state and controlling it's behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bicycle example with an EFI engine if you had your &quot;ignition&quot; to on while you started cycling then the ecu would start to inject fuel and cause spark so yes it would apply force and use fuel. If the ignition were off then the ecu would be off and you wouldn't get any fuel or spark so no you won't get any force if you apply the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going downhill not pressing the accelerator with the ignition on will use significantly less fuel (not sure if the ecu uses zero fuel though) and the engine will still be sparking for sure. If you were to turn the ignition to accessory while coasting downhill the ecu will shut off and you will stop injecting fuel and stop spark as well so the accelerator would no longer do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the clutch in and you stop the engine will stop. If you then release the brakes and roll down a hill then one of two things will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) if your ecu is on (ingition on) then the engine will start to use fuel and spark. (It will be really rough until it gets to ~700rpm)&#xA;2) if your ecu is off then the engine will rotate but no fuel or spark so therefore no acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the difference between a running engine and not if they are both spinning :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A running engine is one which can continue to run from the energy it is producing without an external force. Modern engines require fuel air and spark to satisfy this requirement. eg. ECU on and rotating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine is off if when all external forces are removed then engine would stop. eg. the ecu is off so the engine isn't producing any of its own power and is only spinning because it is connected to wheels that are being accelerated by gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this clarifies it somewhat....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T15:41:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6613" CreationDate="2013-07-11T17:00:38.333" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tell your shop to try rotating the tires by putting both rears on the front and the new tire on the back. Maybe the difference in tread depth is more significant than they think? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If rotating the tires doesn't fix the problem my guess would be that under hard acceleration that tire is getting out of alignment and causing toe out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that make sure they check the following : wheel bearing play on that side, ball joint and lower control arm condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I just noticed that they repaired the rim instead of replacing it. That could also have been an issue so rotating that rim to the rear tires would help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T17:00:38.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T18:47:18.467" Score="4" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat new to wrenching my bikes and I'm loving it! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 74 Yamaha TX 500 that keeps carbon fouling her plugs :(. I've put on slightly hotter plugs (D7EA from D8EA), narrowed the jets from #132 to #120, and put on K&amp;amp;N filters right on the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She STILL fouls (black soot) the plugs almost to unusability within 15 minutes of hard riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be? I've heard it could be an ignition issue or that I need an entire new carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3414" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T10:57:28.607" Title="Carbon Fouled Plugs '74 TX500" Tags="|motorcycle|sparkplugs|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:00:18.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All EFI engines shut off the fuel injectors when the accelerator is released above a certain RPM or speed (varies by manufacturer). It's easier to detect on newer model cars with a digital instant fuel economy gauge where when cruising at 55 MPH and the accelerator pedal is released, the economy readout will shoot from 30 MPG to the highest number or the readout goes blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an automatic transmission when the gear selector is placed in neutral at highway speed, the engine computer will allow the fuel injectors to fire again and actually raises the RPMs in anticipation of it being thrown into gear again. On a manual transmission when pressing in the clutch or placing gear selector in neutral, the engine RPMs will fall to idle where the engine computer will fire the injectors to maintain idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn off the engine (with the key) while moving, the car will still keep moving, but you won't accelerate or maintain speed. If the engine is off, pressing the accelerator does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3415" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T19:00:18.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:52:12.003" Score="6" ViewCount="6449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a situation where I'm doing wiring for the dashboard of a vehicle. For whatever reason, the turn signal/headlight switch on this vehicle outputs a 6 volt signal on the high beam wire when the low beam is on and a 12 volt signal when the high beam is on. The headlights work as they're supposed to, but the high beam indicator led is activated when the low beam is on since 6 volts is enough to activate it. Does anyone have a simple solution to make the indicator only turn on when there is a 12 volt signal and not when it's a 6 volt signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Randy" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T02:52:59.663" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T01:29:03.567" Title="High Beam Indicator Problem" Tags="|electrical|headlight|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2013-07-11T20:11:11.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a simple logic chip that is detecting it, then you won't need a lot of current to trigger. In that case, just put something like two 1K resistors in series to ground and divide the voltage in half (the old output will now be in between the two resistors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chris" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T20:11:11.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2013-07-11T20:40:02.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting a 6v2 zener (400mW) diode in series with the indicator LED. The LED takes about 1.5V so nothing under 7.7V should be able to turn it on. The LED current should be small enough to use a low power zener diode. Make sure you get the diode the right way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCp9m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JIm Dearden" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T20:40:02.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2013-07-12T02:34:29.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The indicator lamp on some vehicles is also illuminated if the resistance in the wiring is not equal to a certain amount. This is usually cause by using an incorrect bulb (even though the bulb will still plug in and work), If one of the connectors is corrodded etc. A little more details on the year make and model of the vehicle would be helpful. Finding and fixing whatever is wrong sounds a lot less of a hassle then soldering a diode in line to &quot;mickey mouse&quot; the fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-07-15T19:24:39.317" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T19:24:39.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2013-07-12T10:57:28.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon Fouling is caused by incomplete combustion. The usual cause of this is an over-rich mixture, but it sounds like you've checked most of the elements that could cause that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What condition is the ignition system in? Distributor, HT leads etc? I assume you've checked the mixture when you changed the jets, but what about the choke (if she has one)? What about the ignition timing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NGK &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; also suggests that it could be due to worn rings or low compression, so it might be worth doing a compression test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has quite a nice guide to plugs, with photos of the different types of deposit and a list of potential symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T10:57:28.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2013-07-12T12:21:32.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not hear this from dealers. Maybe they know maybe they don't. Having a 2004 Escape which developed the burning oil smell just when you put it on the market. You know what a turn off that can be &quot;has an oil leak&quot;. The local garage was aware of the leaks in different places of Ford/Mazda engine. Like you found out it is cheaper and does not hurt to leave it alone. I was told the average repair requires pulling the engine to access the leak location or allow the engine to be (properly) taken apart, etc....At any rate you know the price tag is $1400+. Weight the math if you are keeping it. Know up front you have to tell anyone looking to buy if selling about known problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3416" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T12:21:32.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6627" CreationDate="2013-06-23T22:02:19.713" Score="2" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a craftsman riding lawnmower.  It has a manual gear that I have to push up to get the blade to start.  There is a physical heavy gauge wire going from this gear to something below that snapped in half.  So what is this called, can I fix it myself, and how do you fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9224" OwnerDisplayName="DMoore" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T20:33:41.757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T20:33:41.757" Title="What's this cable that starts the blade on a Craftsman riding lawnmower called?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2013-06-24T02:13:43.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action&lt;/a&gt; and type in your model number.  You select the schematic that contains your broken part and order a new one.  While viewing the schematic, you could be able to decide if you're capable of doing the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming since you're considering the fix, that you have access to a variety of tools and not just a simple, 20 piece, car-trunk variety socket and ratchet set.  You could possibly need torx sockets, allen head sockets, large 1/2 inch drive sockets... its hard to say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3394" OwnerDisplayName="Randy" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T02:13:43.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6625" CreationDate="2013-07-06T18:36:41.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a simple cable that rusted and snapped from the &quot;clutch&quot; assembly.  I put clutch in quotes because this just starts the blade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot really just replace the metal cable because it is closed on both ends and has a mechanism on one side that it needs to be outside of...  So a $3 fix turned to $27 because I had to buy the whole assembly.  I did try to put my own metal chord and cap (and I was 98% sure it wouldn't work but it was free because I had the stuff) and the tension snapped the cap off like a twig.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a very very common problem because for my model at a local sears parts center they only had 5-6 parts in stock and about 10 of the clutch assembly... So their design flaw is their profit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix was simple.  Take out the gas tank (2 screws), take out the assembly that moves the blade into gear (4 screws next to steering wheel), put the top part into the matching parts of the blade gear assembly, and then route it through one hole and then put the spring on the bolt and clip it.  Always good to take a pictures but this was a pretty easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9224" OwnerDisplayName="DMoore" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T18:36:41.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-13T01:37:41.677" Score="0" ViewCount="21416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am that would not start. All the lights, power windows, radio etc. work, but when you turn the key it is silent. It won’t even jump start. I had also put in a new solenoid, tightened the battery cables — still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3421" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-07-13T21:29:44.277" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T01:49:20.967" Title="My 2003 Grand Am won’t start" Tags="|starting|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6629" CreationDate="2013-07-13T13:36:32.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;“Starting” a vehicle includes the starter motor, the ignition system, fuel system, security system and a flock of other considerations.   Unable to “crank” or “turn over” the engine reduces the number of components to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn on the headlights then place the ignition key to start.   Do the headlights dim at all?  If not, it’s likely the solenoid isn’t getting any control signal at all.   If the headlights dim, it’s possible the starter motor has seized or the battery is incapable of providing the required cranking amps.   Remember, a faulty battery can cause a jumpered battery to not perform too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, place a voltmeter or test light on the control wire of the starter solenoid (the solenoid is mounted on the starter) then place the ignition key in the start position.   If the test lamp illuminates, the problem is with the solenoid (new solenoids can be defective,) the starter motor, the battery wire to the solenoid or a defective ground connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the test lamp does not illuminate in the above test, the problem may include the ignition switch, the neutral safety start switch (park lever not properly engaged,) security system (if any,) wiring, fuses or a host of other possibilities.   Report back with your progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3424" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T13:36:32.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-13T15:37:17.803" Score="7" ViewCount="30678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to diagnose an ongoing ignition problem with a 1996 Chevy Suburban. Sometimes it won't start, and the previous owner said this happens regularly, and every time the problem occurred, replacing the distributor cap made it work again. Obviously replacing the distributor cap again and again is not a reasonable solution in terms of cost or inconvenience, and it's obvious that there's some other underlying problem that's either ruining distributor caps in a hurry, or (more likely, in my opinion), which is going away for a while just as a result of doing work in that area, most likely moisture- or grounding-related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have not seen any of the caps that were replaced, so I can't comment on their condition, however I did find this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/auto/repair/ignition/distributor_cap/GM_truck_1/replace_cap_96_Yukon.html&quot;&gt;http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/auto/repair/ignition/distributor_cap/GM_truck_1/replace_cap_96_Yukon.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which mentions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With another truck, I've had problems with a coolant leak letting traces of anti-freeze into the distributor cap and causing the exact same problem this truck had... difficulty starting in damp weather with a cold engine. The anti-freeze would absorb moisture from the air and turn into tiny droplets of conductive liquid, which would ground out the spark and prevent the vehicle from starting. I could solve the problem by heating the cap with a heat gun or hair dryer, and the truck would start just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, nothing is said about where the coolant leak was coming from, and I'm a bit surprised that coolant would be leaking into the distributor, which is situated on top of the rear part of the (V8) engine. Does this explanation make sense at all? If so, where could the leak be coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't check (and I'm not near the vehicle now) whether it's using Dexcool, but based on the year, it might be. I've also heard reports that Dexcool has, or deteriorates to a form that has, higher conductivity than proper antifreeze, so if there is a very slight leak causing the ignition problem, is there a chance replacing the coolant might fix it, and can this be done safely in a vehicle made for Dexcool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Here are some other threads with a similar issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f14f5d1/141&quot;&gt;http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f14f5d1/141&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I should mention that if the issue is moisture related, it's almost certainly not &lt;em&gt;ambient&lt;/em&gt; moisture, since the vehicle started yesterday after a long time of sitting (it hadn't been working before) with overcast weather (previously heavy rain) and near 100% humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T00:40:10.143" Title="Chronic ignition problems with 1996 Suburban, replacing distributor cap makes it go away" Tags="|electrical|starting|chevrolet|coolant|ignition|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2013-07-13T19:10:37.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something may have gotten into your air vents. I had a leaf in there and it drove me crazy til I one day realised what it was and got it out with a tweazer. It's worth a shot as it won't cost you any money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T19:10:37.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-13T22:52:32.403" Score="2" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a VW Jetta made in 1984 with 1.6L petrol engine (code &quot;EZ&quot;). It starts OK (though if it has been a wile since last start, it takes some cranking to start the engine), but when climbing a hill, the engine starts misfiring and obviously loses power, so much so that if the hill is steep enough it looks like the car may not be a able to make it to the top. &#xA;When idling (the automatic transmission in &quot;P&quot; or &quot;N&quot; position), then engine still misfires, but rarely (like once every 10 seconds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another weird thing is that if the transmission is in &quot;P&quot; or &quot;N&quot; position, the idling speed is ~1500RPM, but if I put it in &quot;D&quot; and apply the brakes, the idle speed drops to ~900RPM (this is what the manual specifies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously the car had problem starting, but I found the reason - bad capacitor and, in turn, worn out contact breaker points. I replaced the points and the cap (didn't the a proper one, so just used a regular 630V 0.2uF capacitor). &#xA;The spark plugs are new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked for vacuum leaks, found one (the air intake vacuum unit is broken) plugged it (temporarily just plugged the tube), but that made no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:54:16.503" Title="VW Jetta II - engine misfires when climbing a hill" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|vw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2013-07-14T00:02:53.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be nice if you could get your hands on the appropriate components for the vehicle instead of using whatever you have laying around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the ignition advance to ensure that it's working properly? Also the ignition timing while rotating the motor by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extended crank after it's been sitting makes me want you to check fuel pressure key on engine off. And also while at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broken vacuum line that you say is on the vacuum unit, where does this route to? Depending on the production year of the vehicle there are a few differnet vacuum diagrams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit&gt; Thinking about this a little more this morning I had another question. The misfire occurs when going uphill. But, when not going uphill, can you get it to misfire simply by accelerating and getting the transmission to down-shift into the passing gear? If it &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; happens uphill then have when you get a moment have a look into the gastank and make sure that the pickup for the fuel pump is not all the way to the front of the tank. If it is it most likely is causeing the vehicle to starve itself and causing the misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when the vehicle is back on level ground the fuel is now air-raided causing the a random misfire every ~10seconds or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-07-14T19:29:12.510" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T19:29:12.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T19:44:07.377" Score="4" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove a spark plug broken off in the engine block of a 2002 Malibu? I successfully removed and changed three spark plugs in my 2002 Chevy Malibu. The fourth one broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T02:50:10.197" Title="Broken spark plug" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T19:51:47.787" Score="1" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three of the spark plugs in my 2002 Chevy Malibu are easy to reach and change, which I did successfully. The other three spark plugs are difficult to reach, difficult to see, and are in a position where I cannot get them started turning without banging the socket wrench on the car firewall. What are the best things to do to change the three difficult-to-reach spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HBL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T19:58:36.760" Title="2002 Chevy Malibu spark plugs" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6637" CreationDate="2013-07-14T19:58:36.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off-hand, my best suggestion would be to try different types and lengths of socket extensions, including (my favorite for situations like this) one with a universal joint in it. You could also try using a regular non-socket wrench on the end of the spark plug socket, if you can reach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T19:58:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6636" CreationDate="2013-07-15T02:50:10.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warning try this at your own risk I have heard this works on a ford motor...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray a little penetrating oil down around the spark plug to help loosen it. Let sit for about 5 minutes or until a decent amount of the oil evaporates. Put a rag over the spark plug hole to prevent anything from falling in (or possibly fly out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickly crank the engine one cycle to build compression and hopefully pop /loosen the broken piece of the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the remaining piece out with a long grabbing utensil or magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T02:50:10.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2013-07-15T03:12:14.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s perfectly okay if, while reading this noise, you jump up and yell “B/S Bingo,” I’ll understand.   Many of us middle-aged ol’ timers remember the mid-70’s Chevy trucks with their big block engines, and the engine heat seizing the starter motor.   The fix?  Tapping out a couple of shims from the aluminum cans of an adult malty beverage, and though I cannot recommend the foamy contents myself, the brewer in Colorado produces the best shims.   (Select a local cannery for your location.)  Place a couple of those carefully crafted shims (select the number of shims to suit) between the transmission and the starter and several layers of same cut and contoured to create a heat shield between the starter and the block and honest to goodness, no more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And excellent way to pre-check this test is to heat everything up by taking a nice country-side cruise, let your mechanic know you’re on your way and while nice and hot, the mechanic loosens the starter bolts just a very tiny amount, then for a very short split-bit of a moment, hit the ignition key.   If the starter rotates, you’ve successfully trouble-shot your issue.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When asked where I’m going, my girlfriend simply smiles when I say I’m out of shims. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3424" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T03:12:14.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6618" CreationDate="2013-07-15T09:30:45.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll expand on one of cinelli's comments - why not fix the cause rather than the symptom? If you've got 6v on the high-beam feed when the switch is set to dip, this suggests to me there is a problem with the switch - and I'd be worried that it might be causing other hidden problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the lamps aren't relayed (as is the case with a lot of older vehicles), you'll have 6v running through the high-beam filaments all the time the lights are on. This won't be enough to light them, but will shorten the life of the bulbs... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried another switch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T09:30:45.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6645" CreationDate="2013-07-15T15:06:50.787" Score="2" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find out for sure if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esso.com/Russia-English/Lubes/PDS/EUXXENPVLESUniflo.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the oil&lt;/a&gt; that I'm using is synthetic or mineral. I have suspicions that it is mineral based on unreliable web sites, but the recommended oil for my car (Renault Megane MK1 1.6e 1998) is synthetic. How can I check which one it is? And does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I can't ask the repair shop that changed my oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T00:09:10.150" Title="Can I mix synthetic and mineral oils?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T15:39:12.803" Score="7" ViewCount="54646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Recently, the fuse for the cigarette lighter blew when I put in a car charger. The fuse powers the cigarette lighter as well as the radio and I think the backlighting on the air conditioner panel. I tried replacing the fuse (15W) and it blew again when I put in the charger. This happened once or twice more. There are no aftermarket items here, everything including the radio is original as far as I know. I also didn't do anything differently than in the past. This is not a new car charger, I have been using it for a year with no problems. Any idea why all of a sudden using the charger and radio blow the fuse repeatedly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3428" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T00:14:03.953" Title="Cigarette lighter fuse repeatedly blows" Tags="|fuse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2013-07-15T16:54:59.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the car charger has a short in it.  If you really, really wanted to I supposed you could test for low resistance across the charger plug.  Or, perhaps try plugging it into a different car and see if it blows the fuse there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd try a different device in the car and verify that it's not a loose socket.  If it fails that, I'd get the socket fixed and then try the charger again.  If some other device worked fine on the car, I'd be looking for a new charger.  I'm very hesitant to try a possible shorted device anywhere as I've already had a car electrical fire due to a fuse failing to blow when some wiring shorted out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T16:54:59.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6642" CreationDate="2013-07-15T17:56:40.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoadria.ro/distributie/oferte/esso.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;, I would say that you are dealing with a mineral oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Premium quality mineral based engine oil, delivers excellent engine&#xA;  cleanliness and protection against wear and corrosion under a wide&#xA;  under a wide variety of operating conditions for cars and vans with&#xA;  gasoline and diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to whether it really matters, the short answer is &quot;it depends but probably not enough for you to notice.&quot;  To say more than that, we'd have to know much more about the specific vehicle, the maintenance history and its usage profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic rules still apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any oil is better than zero oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's your vehicle so it's your call in the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T17:56:40.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T23:33:27.277" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to install a By-Pass filter on my Jeep TJ (2004).  Where can I put the other end of the tube going into the filter?  I have included a diagram illustrating what I am looking for (where the red circle is) on the Jeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxHgG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="3362" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T18:40:14.180" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T18:40:14.180" Title="Where on the Jeep Wrangler TJ can I tap into the oil line?" Tags="|oil|jeep|wrangler|by-pass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6647" CreationDate="2013-07-16T00:06:26.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easier just to buy the filter adapter kit for $50 that way you don't have to tap a return line either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your cheap sometimes engines have an extra oil feed bung down on the lower part of the engine block near where the oil pump would be just above the oil pan. Don't know if your jeep has one but worth a quick snoop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T00:06:26.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6642" CreationDate="2013-07-16T00:09:10.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can mix synthetic with other oils. Your manufacturer usually just specifies a certain specification or certification that the oil must meet. As long as the oil meets the spec it will perform fine, regardless whether it is synthetic or mineral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetics will benefit from better additive packages etc. however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T00:09:10.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-16T16:44:41.520" Score="4" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has 2003 VW Beetle (2.0L, 5-speed manual). Sometimes, when you turn the key to crank over the car it tries to turn over but then hits a wall. No clicking happens at all. It starts to turn over, and then nothing. If you cycle the key a couple of times then it catches, turns over and starts. Sometimes it starts and dies, but most times after the key cycling it starts and runs just fine. Sometimes it also turns over slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the battery and it tests OK. I replaced the starter, but the problem still occurs. I am thinking it may be ignition switch. All connection to battery and starter look clean and are snug. No connections look loose or unhooked. No fuses are blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did take it to the dealer and they say nothing is wrong with it. But, still having issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3436" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T02:39:13.853" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:36:37.837" Title="Intermittent no crank issues" Tags="|battery|starting|vw|ignition|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-17T01:32:58.997" Score="2" ViewCount="2365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2000 4runner just started making a noise a few days ago.  It’s not very noticeable unless you roll down the window.  It is high pitched, and when it happens it’s intermittent, never a longer tone than a quarter second, rather like a bird singing in fact.  It seems to stop while I’m touching the brakes, no matter what speed I’m going or how softly I touch the brakes.  It seems to mostly happen when I’m gassing or idling.  Coasting at higher speeds sometimes produces the sound, sometimes doesn't.  It doesn’t happen while in park even if I gas it.  Happens when the AC is on or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s making that noise, or how do I figure that out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3438" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:52:53.220" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:52:53.220" Title="Whistling noise from Toyota 4Runner when idling or gassing" Tags="|toyota|noise|4runner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2013-07-17T03:15:40.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's overheating! Hot Soak! The 2000 accord has the fuel rail under the intake manifold and right above the engine. The hottest possible place it could have been put. I replaced my 12 year old thermostat with a new one from Honda (167 degrees is the rated temp. for this year) and problem solved!!! Then, a few weeks later, it started again... but this time it was the air-conditioner fan relay. Second fan was not coming on. Replaced the relay ($7.35) and good to go. Been over a year and no problems at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple cause, simple solution... OVERHEATING!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3439" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T03:45:54.220" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T03:45:54.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-17T08:09:08.807" Score="5" ViewCount="4363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is replacing the head gasket in a 1993 Mercedes 300ce, an expensive repair? I've been told it is better to just replace the engine all together. Is it a tough job for a backyard mechanic or a diy person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T09:14:17.400" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T17:50:54.633" Title="Replacing the head gasket in a 1993 Mercedes 300ce" Tags="|mercedes-benz|replace|repair|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6655" CreationDate="2013-07-17T08:33:43.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider when replacing a head gasket is that your engine's head may have warped ever so slightly when the car overheated (caused by the blown head gasket). If that's the case, it would have to be machined by a workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for actually replacing the gasket yourself, it's a matter of removing the top part of the engine, scraping away the remains of the old gasket and sticking a new one on in its place. It's a long job, but nothing especially difficult. It would probably take you a couple of hours. Just make sure you have a good quality replacement gasket, a torque wrench and the kids are somewhere where they can't hear you swear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEJ51BJ23yk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a youtube video that shows how this is done.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T16:44:48.820" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T16:44:48.820" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6659" CreationDate="2013-07-17T15:10:24.573" Score="3" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the gas cap &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/803/why-would-a-new-gas-cap-cause-the-check-engine-light-to-shut-off/805#805&quot;&gt;as suggested here&lt;/a&gt; worked for about a week. But now the check engine light (evap code) continues to re-appear. This is about the third time in three months the check engine light has appeared. Each time the code is &lt;code&gt;EVAP CODE&lt;/code&gt;. I don't know if there is more than one evap code. This is what the mechanic told me. All my mechanic has done is reset the light. What else can I do besides replacing the gas cap to prevent the &lt;code&gt;EVAP CODE&lt;/code&gt; from appearing? This is for a 2001 Toyota Sienna. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T17:38:51.793" Title="Evap code continues to warn after replacing the gas cap" Tags="|toyota|cel|evap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6658" CreationDate="2013-07-17T16:03:33.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/805/57&quot;&gt;answer to your linked question&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/85/larry&quot;&gt;Larry&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the indicator light could be coming on due to a loose gas cap, a torn hose or a leaking seal.  Remember how the system works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the right conditions are met IE fuel level between 1/3 and 1/2&#xA;  tank, outside temp 50 - 90 etc. the ECM pulls a vacuum on the evap&#xA;  system and makes sure it holds a vacuum. This tells the ECM if there&#xA;  is a leak, allowing vapors to leak into the atmosphere. If it fails&#xA;  this check x number of times it turns the MIL (malfunction indicator&#xA;  lamp) on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anything that causes the fuel system to fail to hold vacuum could trigger the code.  The fact that replacing the gas cap wasn't sufficient doesn't necessarily mean that the cap wasn't bad.  It might have been necessary but not sufficient to fix the whole problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T16:03:33.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6655" CreationDate="2013-07-18T15:30:07.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mercedes M103 engine in your 300CE is a proven design, old enough to demonstrate its longevity—lots of them are running around still with 300,000+ miles on them.  The head gaskets are pretty much the only serious weak point.  If the engine was not burning excessive oil (more than a quart every 5,000 miles) or showing other signs of extreme wear before the head gasket blew, it is definitely worth repairing.  In other words, there is no need to buy an entire new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a head gasket from the Mercedes dealer rather than an aftermarket part, the problem won't come back; the new gaskets are an improved design.  Buy new head bolts from the dealer as well; they are designed to stretch when installed and cannot be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder head is very heavy and will take at least two people to remove it safely from the engine.  Overheating it probably warped the head enough that it won't seal correctly unless planed on the bottom (this is true of all aluminum heads, not just Mercedes), so you will want to take it to an automotive machine shop to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the head off on the M103, you have much easier access to the timing chain cover, which tends to leak on these engines, so you can change the gasket there.  Also, you will have to drain the coolant before removing the head, so during the process, use a hose to flush the entire cooling system, and consider replacing any hoses that look old.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put the whole thing back together, it's crucial to follow the procedure given in the factory service manual or the Haynes manual for 124 chassis cars to correctly tighten the head bolts down; incorrect tightening will just warp the head and make it leak again.  You will need a good-quality torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, it's not too bad a job, but I wouldn't recommend it for a novice mechanic unless assisted by someone more knowledgeable.  Mercedes 124s are wonderful cars when sorted out, though, and the coupes are future collectibles—good luck getting yours back on the road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T17:50:54.633" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T17:50:54.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-18T22:44:49.993" Score="1" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a clicking noise behind the glove box. I believe there should be a sensor or something to stop the motor for the divertor valve. It trys to keep shifting the valve and it clicks when it reaches the bottom but doesn't stop. Can anyone suggest how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3442" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-19T08:38:27.653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T21:02:51.173" Title="2008 Chevrolet Impala. Clicking noise behind the glove box - I believe it has something to do with a diverter valve in heating and cooling system?" Tags="|troubleshooting|chevrolet|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2013-07-18T23:50:03.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a blend/vent door actuator motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had two go bad my self and they make a really bad noise when they go bad. I imagine if the potentiometer goes bad in them they could continually actuate without getting a signal to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T23:50:03.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-19T01:32:51.607" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the intake the car will not start. The lights on the dash come on, the fuel pump pumps, the fuel rail has been bled. And yet when I turn the key, no click just some relay clicks after a second or two. Starter does not click or appear to work at all. It appears everything is reconnected. What's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3443" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-10-15T14:00:10.800" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T14:00:10.800" Title="1999 Ford Interceptor 4.6 L not starting" Tags="|ford|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-19T02:58:24.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm removing the steering gearbox from my 2004 E-250.  I'm trying to remove the gearbox from the frame, but one of the three bolts that mount it to the frame is stuck.  I've managed to get the bolt out about halfway, but the more I unscrew it, the tighter it gets.  I can't get it out any further with the 15&quot; breaker bar I've been using.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than turning really hard, the only thing I've done is spay it with a lot of WD-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other info:  The two bolts that I did manage to get out had red-colored thread locking compound on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get this bolt out of the gear box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T18:23:40.407" Title="Remove stuck steering gearbox mounting bolt?" Tags="|power-steering|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-19T16:06:37.920" Score="3" ViewCount="1833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a hatchback ford fiesta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car out for a drive today for 10 minutes and when I came back, I opened the hood and checked that the water in the water container was quite hot (not scorching, but able to put your finger in without getting burnt) even though it is winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that the water was kind of brownish-reddish and also the lining just under the cap had this brownish-reddish kind of substance. it seemed like mud, but wasn't thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was last serviced a couple months ago, and the mechanic told me he drained the oil. I'm not sure about the water container though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any idea why it is this colour? I was told (and saw online) that the issue may be that the radiator is 'dirty' and is the cause as to why this is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3446" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T18:04:20.660" Title="Ford Fiesta - the colour of the water in the water container" Tags="|engine|ford|radiator|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6666" CreationDate="2013-07-19T18:04:20.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'd recommend not sticking your fingers in the coolant overflow when the car's been running for 10 minutes.  It should be fairly warm (if not downright hot) at that point (even in the Winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, coolant comes in all different colors.  Green, Red, Orange, etc.  The color alone isn't that concerning.  Even if it's brown, it could just have some Red and Green mixed (for example, it might have come with Red but someone used some Universal green to top it off at some point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, residue on the cap doesn't mean a whole lot.  There's normally some there on any car that's more than a year or 2 old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you following the maintenance guidelines (in the owner's manual)?  Normally an oil change will not do anything with the coolant.  Coolant is good for a lot longer than oil...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T18:04:20.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6665" CreationDate="2013-07-19T18:23:40.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research on thread locking compound, and found that heat should be applied to the bolt to loosen its grip.  I heated the bolt using a standard small torch with MAP gas for about two minutes.  The bolt came out fine with about 80 ft-pounds of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T18:23:40.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-19T21:29:25.217" Score="5" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blower fan in my Civic is really loud on the high setting; from inside the vehicle, it's much louder than the engine and even louder than wind/road noise at highway speed. Reaching up under the glove box and putting pressure on the middle of its casing while it's running quiets it down quite a bit, so it seems like it's a vibration issue, but I have no idea where to start diagnosing it further. Is this a common problem with solutions, or do I just need to replace the fan if I want to make the noise go away? I suppose I could post an audio recording if that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T21:33:34.690" Title="Noisy blower fan in 92 Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|noise|fan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2013-07-19T22:36:51.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out. There was a piece of metal that fell off the tip of one of my car chargers that was inside the cigarette lighter... It kept blowing the fuse but when I discovered it and removed it, the problem was fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3428" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T22:36:51.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="864" CreationDate="2013-07-20T02:35:37.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually discovered there are basically two ways to do this.  One is to use the part FossilizedCarlos mentioned, but you must also get an &lt;em&gt;alternator spacer set&lt;/em&gt;, or else the brackets do not help much.  I had previously purchased the bracket set but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to help.  The spacer set is the missing link, although they are hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option, which is what I ended up doing, was just having a friend make me a solid spacer which I then mounted the w/ AC alternator bracket onto.  It is essentially just a 2&quot; thick piece of steel with 3 holes drilled in the same pattern as the bracket.  It's not the lightest weight solution, but it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T02:35:37.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2013-07-20T04:54:40.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you double-clutch the downshifts and ensure that the engine is running at exactly the right speed before you engage the clutch, any additional wear will be insignificant.  Double-clutching will, if done properly, eliminate any additional wear of the synchronizers and if the engine is running at just the right speed before you engage the clutch after the downshift, the clutch will not have to drag the engine up to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to double clutch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declutch and shift to neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engage the clutch and, at the same time, use the accelerator to bring the engine up to the proper speed for the gear to which you will be downshifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declutch and shift to the lower gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickly engage the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it just right (which may take practice), the shift lever will easily move to the selected gear and engaging the clutch will be totally smooth.  Eventually, the operation will become totally automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3447" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T04:54:40.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6651" CreationDate="2013-07-20T06:58:49.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ignition switch theory may have merit.  Another option is that the battery, while still operating at around 12v, is worn and is producing less current (Amps) than it did originally.  If the car has more trouble starting when it's cold outside then this is a more likely culprit.  I would have said it sounds like your starter solenoid might be failing but you replaced the starter, so that seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T06:58:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2013-07-20T07:11:05.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this is still unresolved :)  It's been a few months since the last activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect a faulty oxygen sensor.  These often be quite flaky when they start to go bad, so that you don't see consistent behavior.  You often will see the stuttering you describe because the fuel/air mixture is way off.  They will also sometimes trigger an engine light, but not always.  Again, the behavior from a bad O2 sensor is often flaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing oxygen sensors is usually pretty cheap as they are not expensive parts.  I would suggest simply replacing them and seeing if the problem goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T07:11:05.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6669" CreationDate="2013-07-20T09:18:35.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the blower motor has a significant mount of debre jammed into it causeing it be off-balance or possibly even broken a blade. Or, the bearing that it spins on is just worn out. Either way you'll have to pull it down and have a look at  what's going on with it, it should be noticable either way. Either it has a significant amount of play in it or there's a few blades missing, or there's an excessive amount of leaves and debre jammed in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was caused by excess debre, then make sure to have a look at the fresh air filter whenever servicing the vehicle and replace it whenever it gets too dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T09:18:35.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-21T01:16:45.093" Score="5" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 1975 Ford F-350. It has been sitting idle for 6 months, and is rarely used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, when I try to start it after sitting for a long time, it takes a bit of cranking before it starts. I assume this means the fuel in the fuel line and carburetor float bowls evaporates, and has to be replenished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time, it wouldn't start despite extended cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually added a teaspoon of fuel directly to the carburetor, cranked the engine, and it ran for a few seconds. So I knew that compression, timing, and spark were OK, and that it was a fuel issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor. The end of the fuel line, and the brass fitting it connected to, were both glistening, suggesting there was moisture. I put the fuel line in a can, cranked the engine, and saw fuel squirt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reconnected the fuel line, and poured a little more fuel in to the carburetor. Cranked the engine, and it started up and ran fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened? What changed when I disconnected &amp;amp; reconnected the fuel line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T12:43:06.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T12:43:06.050" Title="Why wasn't my engine getting fuel?" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6676" CreationDate="2013-07-21T02:16:56.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A likely culprit is a sticking fuel float or needle valve assembly. The valve may have been stuck in the full fuel bowl position, or a piece of sediment may have blocked the port. The vibration caused by taking off the fuel line could have cleared something like that. If it happens again, try rapping on the carb with a screwdriver handle -- that may dislodge the float and allow you to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-07-21T19:53:17.500" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T19:53:17.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-21T02:34:36.297" Score="2" ViewCount="2502" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 KIA Forte LX has no power lock from stock, but it has wires in doors. Is it possible to put lock actuator from EX model? Or in any other DIY way?&#xA;I've checked a lot of forums, but there is no clear info. Dealership and auto shops want $500-700 for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3450" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T14:13:39.050" Title="Is it possible to install power door lock on KIA Forte LX?" Tags="|locks|door|power|kia|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6817" CreationDate="2013-07-21T04:24:03.593" Score="3" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am repairing a bike which had its front totally taken out. The instruments panel and headlights are gone. One of the first things I'd like to do is install a new bank sensor. I purchased the bank sensor already, however I am not sure where I should connect it to? Does not look like the main wiring harness, looks like somewhere else. A picture for an answer would be much appreciated ; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3451" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T12:30:19.007" Title="What is the bank sensor attached to on a Honda CBR1000RR 2012?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-21T17:04:59.853" Score="2" ViewCount="6723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an '82 Yamaha 750 Maxim. I have single air breathers for my four carbs and I removed the carbs to clean out and install air filters. Before I removed the carbs the bike ran fine, however now it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know the carbs are getting gas to the bowls, and the spark plugs have a spark but for reasons beyond me, I can't get the bike to start now. I have tried starter fluid, and putting gas directly into the cylinders, but I still cannot get it to start. Let me also add, since then, I have removed and cleaned the carbs twice more, thinking I might have missed something when cleaning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest why it won't start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3454" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T15:57:29.113" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T15:57:29.113" Title="Yamaha XJ750 not starting" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|yamaha|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2013-07-21T22:39:15.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak?  This can be caused by any hoses that aren't plugged in but it can also be caused by a bad carb gasket or a carb that isn't tightened to spec.  Checking for vacuum leaks is hard without the engine running, but you can do a spot test by simply pulling off a vacuum hose and putting your finger over the hose when you crank the engine.  You should be able to feel a little bit of suction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that your carbs are not choking properly.  I am unfamiliar with this particular bike but I would assume the choke is electric.  It is possible that the wires for the choke weren't hooked up correctly, or that the choke is stuck open for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my best ideas, but I'm sure someone more familiar with the bike might be able to suggest more specific things to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T22:39:15.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12626" CreationDate="2013-07-22T02:10:34.513" Score="0" ViewCount="14634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the steering gear box on my 2004 E250 with a remanufactured one.  I'm still getting play in the steering wheel, about an inch as measured by the circumference of the wheel.  I took a look under the truck and the pitman arm is not moving when the wheel is turned the inch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I adjust the sector gear, or did I get a defective gear box?  It was my understanding that the gearbox came pre-adjusted, and there is no mention of adjustment in the instructions that were provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:58:17.230" Title="Adjust sector shaft on newly installed steering gear box?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-07-22T02:27:05.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used W-d40 on metal with some success. Gasoline seems to work on fiberglass and plastic as well as metal. I know of a couple of detailers who use a microfiber cloth and gasoline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3455" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T02:27:05.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2013-07-22T14:27:42.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for the information...Here's what I learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The recall was issued after my issue -- it created a potential stuck throttle situation. Different problem that affects the same system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I verified that the switch under the brake moved freely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I verified that no fuses (particularly brake light fuse or computer fuses) were bad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No codes made it to the OBD reader to test. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally broke down and went to the dealer. After an hour of troubleshooting, they determined the 'controller' module was bad. Required a replacement. FWIW, the replacement module required programming when it arrived as well. Thanks again for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="934" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T14:27:42.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6687" CreationDate="2013-07-22T14:46:11.897" Score="1" ViewCount="14486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand why cars have transmissions – why is it necessary to change from gear to gear as you're driving. I've heard the rule of thumb, &quot;the higher your speed the higher your gear, the lower your speed the lower your gear,&quot; and I'd like to know the reason why it works this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T22:24:07.143" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T14:30:03.193" Title="Why do you need to change gears in car?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6686" CreationDate="2013-07-22T15:21:42.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get on a mountain bike and change between gears. The same reasons apply to changing your car's gears and changing your bike's gears: you can't pedal faster than x, and you can't get away when the gears are too extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that humans and engines operate best at a certain cadence or RPM. If the engine spins too slowly, it can't put enough power down. If it spins too fast, components will endure too much stress, overheat and break quickly. A formula 1 car can rev up to 18000 RPM, but the engine needs to be rebuilt after every race. A large truck only revs to about 2000 to 3000 RPM, and while it's pretty strong, it can't go very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T14:30:03.193" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T14:30:03.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6690" CreationDate="2013-07-22T15:55:51.257" Score="8" ViewCount="127772" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is a drive-shaft and why we need it in a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do get the point of having crankshaft (using Wikipedia) but still confuse with drive-shaft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T14:59:26.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:34:58.230" Title="What is the purpose of a drive-shaft?" Tags="|engine|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6688" CreationDate="2013-07-22T16:37:50.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driveshaft transfers power from a remotely mounted engine (in the old days, one would say transmission here, but at least one modern car has the transmission all the way back on the drive wheels) to drive wheels.  Example, a front engine car with rear wheel drive will have a driveshaft connecting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:37:50.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6688" CreationDate="2013-07-22T16:41:59.170" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's used on front engine rear wheel drive and most 4 wheel drive vehicles it couples the transmission with the rear differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duUbi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/Variable-Torque-Management-VTM-4-Explanation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture above you can see the driveshaft where it's connected to the pinion on the rear end. The drive shaft is the part on the lower right side of the picture. The other end of it would be connected to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On front wheel drive cars the driveshaft is not used. The transmission and differential is combined into one unit called a transaxle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another view below shows a both the transmission and the rear differential. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKAg8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The  drive  shaft,  also  called  a  propeller  shaft,  iscommonly a&#xA;  hollow steel tube with yoke(s) welded onthe  end.  The  tubular &#xA;  design  makes  the  drive  shaftstrong and light. Most vehicles use a&#xA;  single, one-piecedrive  shaft.  However,  many  trucks  have  a &#xA;  two-piecedrive shaft. This cuts the length of each shaft to avoiddrive&#xA;  line vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an exploded view of a drive shaft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWf1c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14273/css/14273_178.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pictures and quote source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a car with a rear transmission and the engine up front. They do this for weight balance. The driveshaft is inside the torque tube. That's the tube you see in the middle of the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Fjtd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T16:53:24.333" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:53:24.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6424" CreationDate="2013-07-23T01:31:37.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not be able to tell the difference between refinish and OEM paint.  As was previously mentioned paint takes a long time to cure and you should have been instructed how to care for it, like don't wash the car for x weeks etc. Pictures would help better identify the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3460" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T01:31:37.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6682" CreationDate="2013-07-23T01:33:04.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looseness in the steering box can cause handling issues as the wheels will drift left to right as you make steering corrections. If this is a used steering box it may need to be adjusted.  This typically involves loosening  the jam nut on the preload adjustment screw and turning in the preload screw in 1/8 increments until the freeplay is removed. The other potential problem is the ragjoint. The ragjoint is rubberized fabric coupler between the steering column shaft and the steering box. As far as the indicator is concerned it may require taking off some of the plastic dashboard trim near the steering column. You should be able to notice that part of the column turns when the shifter is moved. Somewhere on that piece is a small screw with a thin wire attached. The other end of the wire moves the dash indicator. It is adjusted by moving the screw and retightening it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T20:11:12.457" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T20:11:12.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-23T02:40:31.360" Score="0" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can't coolant dry inside the engine during engine operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3461" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T14:51:13.707" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T09:13:29.987" Title="Why doesn't the engine coolant dry up while the engine is running?" Tags="|engine|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6695" CreationDate="2013-07-23T05:13:19.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cooling system is sealed and pressurized, so under ideal conditions, nothing goes in or out. &quot;Drying&quot; is simply evaporation followed by the carrying away of the evaporated water by air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, there is a slight opportunity for evaporation out of the overflow tank, which is not sealed/pressurized on many vehicles, but as the coolant in there is much cooler and there are no large holes, the rate of loss will be very very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T05:13:19.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6783" CreationDate="2013-07-23T05:37:31.290" Score="2" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an '82 Yamaha XJ 750 Maxim. I rebuilt the carburetors this weekend, and after putting it back together, it seems like it's got a vacuum leak. There's a loud squeal every time a cylinder fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed it was coming from one carb body in particular, so I sealed the rubber gasket... thing that connects the carb to the engine block with some Permatex silicone gasket. That reduced the noise at idle a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;, and the noise is completely gone when revving/accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting the engine speed up, it takes quite a while to settle down again. Sometimes, it actually races itself up higher and higher instead of settling. Needless to say, I'm not riding it right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any diagnosis, and what I can do to fix it? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastEditorUserId="3239" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T12:26:44.363" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T13:21:01.660" Title="Squeal (vacuum leak?) and high idle after rebuilding carbs on '82 Yamaha XJ 750 Maxim" Tags="|motorcycle|noise|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6705" CreationDate="2013-07-23T08:21:03.267" Score="0" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the relation between Torque and engine power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to know how power is distributed to wheels in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T20:48:16.323" Title="Torque and engine power" Tags="|engine|clutch|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-07-11T20:48:27.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6678" CreationDate="2013-07-23T10:54:48.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory it should be possible, if the higher-spec models had them, however it may depend on the various computers in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring will all be there (as it isn't worth them making different wiring looms for different models), however the software might not recognise the actuators - and you can't simply swap over the BCU (Body control unit, i.e. the computer that controls things like door locks, windows etc) as it'll be coded to the particular car it is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T10:54:48.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6678" CreationDate="2013-07-23T13:20:46.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Forte LX mode uses a cable setup to work the door locks. While the EX uses rods. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible but, it would take some work to figure out a way to connect the door handle (interior) to the lock assembly. Next you would have to find a way to provide these locks with power since the harness is not the same in both models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the software side both Body Control Modules are the same part number so it's most likely that if anything it's just some coding that would have to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all I wouldn't call this a &quot;DIY&quot; job. It is much more involved than an oil change. Of course, it could be &quot;hacked&quot; together and done cheap. But, if you want it done right, then the dealership would most likely be the best bet. (I say dealership because they have the most resources)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T13:20:46.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6704" CreationDate="2013-07-23T13:31:15.397" Score="5" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6560/how-to-prioritize-repairs&quot;&gt;my car&lt;/a&gt; to my local chain repair shop last Saturday because the parking brake was nonfunctional -- the lever, when pressed, had no resistance, and was clearly not hooked up to anything. They diagnosed that the cable had snapped (which seemed reasonable given the symptom), but also that my front roters and pads and my back roters, pads, and calipers needed replacing. Since that was enough repairs to qualify for a payment plan, I threw in an oil change, coolant system flush, and transmission flush, figuring the cost was negligible when amortized over six months of payments and I have a road trip coming up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got the car back, I drove it home and set the parking break, and since the lever had resistance to it, I figured it was fixed now. Yay! But Monday morning, forgetting I had set the brake, I put the car in reverse... and it started rolling a little (I live in a hilly region). Curious, I gave it a touch of gas, and it pulled right out of the parking space as though the brake wasn't set -- which it still was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it back to them Monday night, having to leave work early to get there before they closed (which represents a small but real loss of income), and they were very apologetic, saying it just needed tightening. I picked it up 4 minutes before they closed and took it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today (Tuesday), when heading out, I went halfway up the sloped driveway to our parking lot and put it in neutral, setting the parking brake. Sure enough, when I let go of the normal brake, it rolled right down the hill. So the problem is still not fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Given that they've failed to fix the problem twice now, should I bring it back to the same shop? If not, how can I get it fixed without sinking more money into it? And&lt;/strike&gt; given that they didn't fix the parking brake, how can I be sure they did my normal brakes properly? The car stops when I apply the brake, but I don't know much about brakes beyond that. I'm going on a road trip in a few weeks, I'd hate to have my brakes suddenly fail in the mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add:&#xA;It's a 2004 Chevy Impala. I was hoping for some way I could verify that the brakes are functional independent of taking it back to the place that screwed up twice, which seems more on topic than my original inquiry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T06:46:32.437" Title="How can I verify my brakes are decent when I can't trust the mechanic who worked on them?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6698" CreationDate="2013-07-23T14:57:58.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've actually asked two different questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very simple, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque#Relationship_between_torque.2C_power.2C_and_energy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mathematical relationship between torque and power&lt;/a&gt;. The power &lt;em&gt;P&lt;/em&gt; generated at any given point in time is equal to the torque &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt; produced at that time multiplied by the angular velocity &lt;em&gt;w&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. engine RPM) at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = T * w&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how the power is distributed to the wheels, that's the job of the transmission, differential, and half-shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T14:57:58.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6702" CreationDate="2013-07-23T15:49:05.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you &lt;strong&gt;take a stand&lt;/strong&gt; on this one. You are in a position of &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; control. Also you will remain within your rights as a consumer and if push comes to shove and the matter was brought to court, the shop would not stand a chance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let me explain:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you left the vehicle with this shop you had a &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; complaint. &#xA;   - Next, the mechanic working on it came to a quick conclusion that the cable must be replaced and it was easy to justify since either it was actually broken or it had just fell off it mounting spot either on the handle side or the e-brake side (either on the caliber itself or inside the rear rotors depending on vehicle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic then proceeded to estimate all the brakes and included the rear calipers (this is where the red light turns on). Regardless of if the brake pads were excessively worn or not or if the rotors were actually out of spec or even warped is not the issue. The issue is that Your complaint was a braking system issue and they have now estimated 4/5ths of the braking system as a fix/up sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; added the fluid flushes. &lt;strong&gt;(they were not recommended.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;NOTE: The mechanic working on the vehicle _obviously_ did not check or mention anything about the condition of the fluids that you had decided to service.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it was all said and done. You left with a payment plan for a laundry list of work and services that the vehicle most likely didn't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt;. I cannot say much about if the vehicle &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; required the replacement of the brake pads/rotors or of the fluids (obviously). But, I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; say that the diagnosis was incorrect, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible that the cable was never actually replaced or broken at all. It could have just fell off the handle but, since you would never know the difference between a new cable and an old cable, they just found a way to connect it and stuck with their original story and never took the item off of the bill (and yes, this is quite common practice for a lot of shops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where you got the upper hand. After all the so called &lt;em&gt;&quot;needed&quot;&lt;/em&gt; repairs that the shop performed you're not only in debt to them for the next six months but the vehicle hasn't changed. The issue is still present. So were &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of the repairs needed? Or were you cheated and robbed by a scumbag shop owner/chain manager? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have another shop look at the work that was performed. Take pictures (cell/camera) of all the work that was actually preformed. Make sure he looks to see if the cable was actually replaced, if everything was secured properly, the whole 9-yards. Make sure to get a full estimate of the costs of properly repairing the vehicle and say &quot;Thank you&quot; to the mechanic doing the inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they replaced the cable &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the mechanic does not point out the fact that they used super-glue or &quot;dumdum&quot; or any other &quot;Micky Mouse&quot; method of repairing your vehicle; Then, with all that information in hand bring the vehicle back to the shop and let them know (as nice as possible) that once again they failed to address your original complaint) and ask to speak to the manager. Expect the weak attempt at an apology from the manager and him to preform the &quot;song and dance&quot; of getting mad at the employee. Let him know that you would like a refund on the work preformed since the vehicle was obviously ill-repaired or just misdiagnosed. He will refuse the repair and offer a free oil change for next time (or something equally as lame). This is where you need to stand your ground. This is where you inform him about having a shop look at the vehicle and that you're willing to take legal action unless your vehicle is repaired &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you are given a refund.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If going this route gets you nowhere but thrown out of the shop then have a look on the receipt you were given from the original repair. By law, there should be a license number (in California it's the &lt;strong&gt;Bureau of Automotive Repair&lt;/strong&gt; / Consumer Affairs). Give them a call explain the situation, send a copy of the receipt and they'll send an agent to the shop and they will get you your refund, your vehicle repaired, and put a mark on their Consumer Report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="2881" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T06:46:32.437" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T06:46:32.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6698" CreationDate="2013-07-23T15:50:22.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The torque is how strong your engine is. Power (Horsepower or kiloWatts) is how fast it can use that strength. To figure out how much work the car is doing, one uses the following formulas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for Horsepower: Power (HP) = Torque (lb.in) x Speed (RPM) / 63,025&#xA;for kiloWatts : Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T15:50:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6702" CreationDate="2013-07-23T17:20:30.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addressing the purely mechanical problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the Impala parking brake adjustment is straightforward.  However, it appears that it's also easy to think you can turn one nut a couple of times and get the customer to go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/ParkingBrake.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very nicely illustrated procedure here&lt;/a&gt; (that is essentially working through the service manual procedure for you), we can see a few critical components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brake shoe and brake rotor need to be reset relative to each other (so that there's good contact all around when you pull the lever).  This requires removing the wheels and brake rotors.  This has to happen on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The equalizer (that adjustable nut on the cable) needs to be adjusted &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the shoe and rotor are reset on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Talking to the shop:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that all you'd have to say to a shop is that you think that previous techs have only adjusted the equalizer rather than resetting the shoes and rotors first.  If they're reasonable, they're likely to agree that that's a likely scenario and take care of it for you.  &lt;em&gt;Personally, I like a shop that comes and gets me halfway through to show me what they're doing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, go to another shop.  Repeat until you feel comfortable.  This is a solvable technical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is something that you could do yourself:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, maybe not &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; specifically but it is possible to do this in a home garage given the right tools.  This isn't a crazy procedure.  This is the kind of thing that could be done in a garage with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1580/car-enthusiast-beginner-kit&quot;&gt;jack, jack stands, hand tools and safety gear&lt;/a&gt;.  I wouldn't recommend it as the very first DIY task but it's certainly not out of reach of the interested amateur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T03:13:21.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2013-07-23T18:55:33.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local mechanic has recommended using &quot;white lithium grease&quot; (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000CINVA6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;) for things like hinges &amp;amp; locks. It is similar to WD-40 in that it's a spray lubricant, but (apparently) it does its job longer (e.g., doesn't wash off or collect dirt as easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T18:55:33.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6711" CreationDate="2013-07-23T18:57:54.963" Score="7" ViewCount="170447" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing a DIY brake job, I understand that it's necessary lubricate several components of the pad/caliper assembly. From various sources, I have been told that the following are the places where brake grease should be applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slide pins connecting one side of the caliper to the other (generously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hook-shaped bits on either side of the pad which sit on the caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The metal back of the pad which contacts the hydraulic piston (lightly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The edges of the hydraulic piston.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen people recommending using anti-sieze lubricant in-between the end of the axle and the rotor, so it's easier to remove the next time the brakes need to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, have I missed any important areas that need lubrication? Or included some that really shouldn't be lubricated? Also, I have heard some people say that anti-sieze should be preferred instead of brake grease - is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T05:37:54.597" Title="What brake components need to be lubricated?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6718" CreationDate="2013-07-23T19:10:45.580" Score="3" ViewCount="2083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual-transmission 2008 Mazda 3 I. For the past day or two, I have detected a somewhat quiet metallic vibration noise coming from the front-end of my car. Some things I have noted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The noise seems to increase when I turn sharply one way or the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nosie seems to increase when I take my foot off the gas - while accellerating, it is more or less gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushing in the clutch or taking the car out of gear while moving seems to have no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressing on the brakes very lightly seems to slightly increase the noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking harder (e.g. when slowing down to a full stop) seems to make the noise go away entirely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for what it's worth, my balance/alignment is good according to my mechanic a few weeks ago, and I have new (i.e., not warped) brake rotors. I also have not noticed any extra build-up of brake dust or smoke or a smell coming from my front brakes, so I don't think I have a caliper that's sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my brake pads and rotors, and since taking the car out of gear not helping seems to imply that the noise isn't coming from the transmission, my brakes seem like the likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these symptoms consistent with poorly lubricated brakes / brake calipers that aren't able to move freely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastEditorUserId="3346" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T22:56:14.377" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:32:41.467" Title="Front-end metallic vibration noise - poorly lubricated brakes?" Tags="|mazda|vibration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2013-07-23T20:32:23.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm not the hugest fan of anti-seize. I feel like you use it once and it follows you around for the next month. You end up finding it in your sock drawer for heaven's sake. I use similar lube except it's a gold color. It seems to be do lot less following me around, and applies in a much cleaner fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brake Lubrication&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lube all contact surfaces between caliper, mount, and pads including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back side of brake pads&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget any shims that are present between the pad and the piston.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pads have aluminum clips that &quot;snap&quot; them into the piston then make sure to lube these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Style points count on this: don't slop it all over the place. I usually explain &quot;too little&quot; as: &quot;If you're trying to be Picasso, you're not using enough&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a light layer of lube between the large center opening of the rotor and the hub, and on the rotor hold-down screw, if the vehicle has one.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This helps keep the metals from bonding/rusting together and requiring extensive force (some real swings of a hammer) for removal the next time it's needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the caliper is equipped with slide pins, then pull them out of the caliper housing, clean them off, apply your lube, and put them back in.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have the pins reinstalled, work them back and forth a few times to make sure that the lube is spread properly and there is no binding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are metal slides that sit between the caliper and mount, lube (lightly) between the slide and the mount, and also between the caliper mount and where it contacts the brake pad ears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;For me, it was easier to just explain how I lube brakes and their components. You seemed to have touched most of the same points as I did. If you end up lubing the area between the hub and rotor, just make sure not to get any anti-seize on the threads of the lug bolts/studs. I hope this helps reassure you about your procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T20:35:58.537" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T20:35:58.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2013-07-24T00:11:54.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise you are describing is likely the wear indicators on the brakes. They are small metal tabs that come in contact with the rotor when the pads nearly gone. It's designed to let you know that your brakes need to be changed. You mention that you just replaced your brakes, did you do all four wheels? It might be the lack of shims, or disc brake quite on the back of the pads but that noise is usually happens when you press the brakes, and goes away when you take your foot off the brakes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T00:11:54.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6717" CreationDate="2013-07-24T04:01:38.660" Score="6" ViewCount="4052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a project motorcycle which is a bit of a frankenstein. It came to me with a Honda 400T engine but the compliance plate says it's a 1982 CB-250T, looking over the frame though the swing arm at least is definitely off a 78-82 CB400T/CM400T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've disassembled the bike completely to get the frame / swing arm powdercoated and now that I've gone to put the swing arm back on I've noticed I've got 2 parts missing, the Swing Arm Pivot Collars. In the attached image they are shown by the red boxes / arrows. I have the bushings (4) shown on either side but not the actual pivot collar. I don't think I've ever seen this part so I'm pretty certain it wasn't in the bike when I disassembled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How important are these collars? I can't find them anywhere on the net and I'm not sure how important they are structurally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEVOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T07:52:29.113" Title="How important are swing arm bushing pivot collars ? [ Honda CB400T Motorcycle ]" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2013-07-24T06:34:32.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have a look at the heat shields that cover the exhaust. The front lower shield is usually the first to break since it takes the mosts abuse. I'm picturing the one on your vehicle being held on by only 2 or 3 bolts (that are left) causing it to &quot;tider-toder&quot; while you are on and off the gas pedal. --&gt; hard acceleration it would tilt to the rear of the vehicle --&gt; hard braking would tilt it forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before checking make sure that it's not too hot by waiting a few hours before getting close to it. Now, from standing in front of the front bumper and looking at the windshield get down on a knee and peak under the front. The exhaust comes down favoring the drivers side of the vehicle. The heat shield on the bottom will most likely be visabily damaged and if you were to give it a little tap you'll hear that metallic melody it's been singing you for the last however long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T06:34:32.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6748" CreationDate="2013-07-24T08:02:27.627" Score="1" ViewCount="2138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got Mercedes A Class W168. Recently I got a weird problem, when I switch the key, only battery &amp;amp; SRS lamps lit at  dashboard. Engine, headlamps, radio, horn, windows, power steering work. Wipers, signal lamps, interior &amp;amp; dash lamps, central locking are out of service, even when engine running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ceiling lamp turns on for a second then goes immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the problem? It doesn't seem like blown fuse problem to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T23:02:41.673" Title="No power to interior lights, etc" Tags="|electrical|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2013-07-24T11:41:33.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had very similar sounds from a bad wheel bearing before.  For a 2008, that would be an early failure though.  Not likely, but if you rule out the other items, check the wheel bearing play/feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T11:41:33.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6713" CreationDate="2013-07-24T12:11:20.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by the diagram, they look pretty important - without them, the pivot bolt will be loose in the swing arm. This will lead to the arm being loose in it's position, which in turn could lead to the bike being unstable and dangerous - and at the very least will make the bushes wear out much quicker than they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from the diagram that they are simply a short length of appropriate diameter aluminium tube, so it ought to be fairly easy to get a pair turned up at a machine shop if you can find the specs for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T12:11:20.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2013-07-24T16:32:41.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've resolved this problem by very thoroughly cleaning and lubricating my various brake components (a list of which components specifically can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6708/what-brake-components-need-to-be-lubricated&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), and by investing in a torque wrench to make sure all of my lug nuts are tightened evenly and to the correct torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I had just been using a crappy lug wrench that came with the car - had I known how much easier to use a torque wrench is, as well as how (relatively) inexpensive they are, I would have picked one up a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the noise was most probably being caused by my lug nuts being tightened unevenly. The brakes being somewhat squeaky probably didn't help, and any vibration coming from the wheel was probably making the brakes make noise as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:32:41.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-25T01:56:38.867" Score="2" ViewCount="4374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having difficulty troubleshooting an issue starting my 1997 Pulsar N15 (also known as Nissan Centra, Nissan Almera in other countries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has been sitting for a few hours (or overnight), it takes about 20-30 seconds to get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially my mechanic diagnosed that fuel pressure drops to zero once vehicle is turned off, then has to rebuild pressure to injectors to restart vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced Fuel Pump (with new)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator (with second-hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upper engine de-coke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned Throttle Body and Air Idle Motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several applications of Fuel System Concentrate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've spent over $500 with no change to the starting characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've posted a 50 second video of car starting at &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/CVvK7-gmtCY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/CVvK7-gmtCY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas for further diagnosing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="864" LastEditorUserId="864" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T03:55:33.450" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T12:27:56.807" Title="Trouble starting 1997 Pulsar N15" Tags="|starting|nissan|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2013-07-25T03:21:59.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting it into neutral isn't good either. Shifting back and forth between neutral and drive can be very bad for the transmission. You have to be more careful also That you Don't apply gas when shifting front N to D. So Just leave it in drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3466" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T03:21:59.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2013-07-25T05:31:21.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some slide pins have rubber components, i.e. a seal in the groove. If you have those, make sure you use appropriate 'rubber-friendly' lubricant. Those seals designed to allow air through but prevent the pin from wobbling or vibrating in the calliper. &#xA;If wrong grease is used, it can cause the seal to swell and turn the pin-calliper into a piston-cylinder arrangement, so when calliper heats up the trapped air will push on the pin and gently press one of the pads into the disk. It will not feel any different while driving, but over time one of the pads will wear substantially more than the other, as it will constantly rub against the disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T05:31:21.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6732" CreationDate="2013-07-25T18:25:19.103" Score="0" ViewCount="4249" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first question in mechanics.stackexchange.com. I am a computer programmer and work in Location based services. Along with GPS monitoring, I want to give the clients , a proper manipulation of the fuel level in their vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Current method that we implement&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We take the fuel wire (from the fuel gauge) and connect it to our GPS device which in turn returns the voltage.&#xA;We take the fuel voltage at empty tank and full tank and then calculate the intermediate fuel levels depending on the voltage we receive.&#xA;This method is very inaccurate and tedious to implement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What we actually want&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A correct manipulation of fuel and its level at various times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other method via which I can monitor the fuel accurately. I am ready to buy any sensor of any cost.&#xA;Can Anyone suggest me a good way to monitor the fuel.? With maximum possible accuracy.&#xA;Anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3472" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T21:14:14.427" Title="How do I correctly monitor the fuel (diesel) in the automobile?" Tags="|fuel-system|sensor|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7050" CreationDate="2013-07-25T18:47:51.457" Score="7" ViewCount="17474" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 focus lx 2.0L L4 SOHC ~18,000 miles has had the engine light so i went to autozone to read the code.&#xA;Autozone obd2 printout says &quot;P2195 lack of heated oxygen sensor- Bank 1 Sensor 1 HO2S11 switch- sensor indicates lean.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autozone said &quot;Your car is burning more fuel.  It's a common problem.  It's usually the 1st sensor to go out.  It's possibe to DIY.  It looks like a spark plug in the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter by exhaust manifold.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked with Herko Automotive Group and they said &quot;For your car 2003 FORD FOCUS 2.0L L4 SOHC in the position sensor 1 (Upstream) you need the oxygen sensor number SG1813.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How reliable is this advice from autozone &amp;amp; herko?  Should i just replace the sensor or what's the next likeliest fix for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I see where the bank 1 sensor 1 is located in front of the engine, but can someone post a pic highlighting the location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T19:44:41.403" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T19:44:41.403" Title="Should I replace my own oxygen sensor if i have a Check Engine Light and Code P2195?" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|focus|emissions|p2195|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6733" CreationDate="2013-07-25T19:35:47.743" Score="1" ViewCount="1771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a BMW 320D E46 (2001) with two doors (passenger side) that are dented beyond repair (i.e. repairing them would be ridiculously expensive). I have the opportunity to buy two replacement doors for very little money (just to be clear: these doors are exactly the same, from the same model in the same color). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have some experience working on cars, I've never replaced doors on a car. It looks easy enough (basically: unscrew some bolts, unplug the electronics connecter, then do the same in reverse) but I worry mostly about the electronics. Will the new door be 'recognised' by the central locking mechanism without any trouble (please note that the doors that I have to replace are passenger-side doors, i.e. there is no physical lock in the front door)? Are there any other potential issues that I need to know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="3474" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T20:12:54.280" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:25:55.287" Title="Replace door on BMW 320D E46" Tags="|bmw|door|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2013-07-25T20:26:23.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you just don't know the characteristics of the output of the fuel level sender in the vehicle--perhaps learning more about that sensor would solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of an alternate solution that does not use the fuel level sender, if the vehicle is a modern one with electronic fuel injection, then it is possible to determine the approximate instantaneous fuel consumption by watching the signals to the fuel injectors. You could then integrate this fuel level consumption to determine the total amount of fuel used in some period of time. You would still of course need to know how much fuel you started with to determine approximately how much is left at any point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet though would just be to calibrate the response of the existing fuel level sender.  Run a vehicle through a full tank of fuel under a constant-load test, recording the voltage from the sender all along the way, then create a map to relate the voltage to the state of fuel in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T20:26:23.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6730" CreationDate="2013-07-25T23:25:55.457" Score="4" ViewCount="7733" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between Charcoal, Electrostatic, and Pollen cabin air filters? For general use, which is better to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:01:04.553" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:01:04.553" Title="Difference between cabin air filters" Tags="|maintenance|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2013-07-26T01:57:20.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem like blown fuse problem to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure about fuses? Did you check all with a multimeter / ohmmeter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3478" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T01:57:20.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-26T03:25:14.963" Score="5" ViewCount="15575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Ram 1500. For about a month I thought I was hearing a clunk between 2nd and 3rd gear. I finally decided to listen carefully by turning my radio off. I now certainly notice it, but it is very specific. It is more of a grind than a clunk when I listen closely and comes from the front of the truck. It is not between 2nd and 3rd gear, it was just a coincidence (I think). It happens before shifting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is when I noticed it only happens when I am accelerating very slowly and maintaining a low RPM. (I would guess around 1500 RPM). The constant seems to be the speed. It seems to happen between 24-26 MPH, which just happens to be when it shifts sometimes. If I accelerate too hard I never hear it. If I don’t accelerate at a constant speed, then I do not hear it. So at a constant RPM, right around 25 MPH, I hear the grinding sound. It only lasts for a split second. I can almost always repeat the sound if I accelerate correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing is, today, I heard the same noise at about 17 MPH while accelerating after a turn. I also thought (not 100% sure) I have heard it at faster speeds a couple times (40+ MPH), but the traffic/wind is too loud to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this sound could be? This is my first question, so let me know of any edits or information you guys need. I am just guessing the motor or transmission. All I know is it is coming from the front of the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3479" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T01:20:04.173" Title="Grinding Sound at Specific RPM/Speed" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2013-07-26T04:59:32.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Paper/Electrostatic/Pollen Cabin Air Filters&lt;/code&gt; are similar to the filters called upon to protect your engine’s air intake from dust and other debris. The thin paper elements in these filters are electro-statically charged in order to improve their ability to repel foreign particles, and they do a great job of keeping pollen, dirt, insects and small animals from clogging up your climate control system and distributing allergens through your air vents. Paper cabin air filters are so effective that they can block particles as small as 0.22 microns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is one area where these types of paper filters fall a bit short, and that is when they are forced to deal with atmospheric pollutants like carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide. These gases can become quite concentrated on stretches of road that see bumper-to-bumper traffic, and in some cases the level of CO2 inside a vehicle can be three times as high as the environmental level, due to the concentrating effects of the passenger compartment ventilation system and the lack of protection afforded by a paper filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Activated Charcoal Cabin Air Filters&lt;/code&gt; are considerably more expensive than their standard paper equivalents, in some cases costing three times as much. Are they really worth the additional expense? The answer to that question would seem to depend largely on your own driving habits. If most of your time behind the wheel is spent in rural areas, or moving briskly down the highway, then the additional cost of an activated charcoal air filter is probably not worth paying. If you find yourself regularly slogging through rush hour traffic in your Tundra, however, then the additional air cleaning capabilities of activated charcoal might be a wise investment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2011/04/11/activated-charcoal-cabin-air-filters-do-they-live-up-to-the-hype/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T04:59:32.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2013-07-26T05:22:08.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagnostic trouble code is not to be looked at as a root cause of the system failure. &lt;em&gt;(example. Replacing a blown fuse is NOT a solution)&lt;/em&gt; In all cases there are multiple components that can cause the same code to trigger. For instance, a possible vacuum leak, or EGR problems, and even a PCV issue, could all show o2 sensor readings with tendencies towards lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said checks should be done to ensure that problem isn't elsewhere and that you're replacing the correct part the first time and now just blindly throwing parts at a car. But, if you feel like rolling the dice and hoping that it is actually the oxygen sensor then feel free to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bank 1 Sensor 1&lt;/code&gt; is located &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the Catalytic Converter. The one after the Converter is &lt;code&gt;Bank 1 Sensor 2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T05:22:08.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:19:59.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd also go with calibrating the existing sensor, but I'd do it the other way around to mac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with an empty tank and measure the voltage. add a known volume of fuel, measureagain. repeat until the tank is full. This will give you a series of reference points, and obviously the smaller the volume you add each time, the better the resolution of your dataset, and so the more accurate your results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:19:59.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6725" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:25:55.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that, orn a car of that age, it ought to work fine. On a newer car the modules might not recognise each other, however you ought to be able to swap the control modules from the old doors to the new ones, so all the modules are still matched to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, it is exactly as you describe, although you might find that some care is required when tightening the new doors to ensure they are correctly aligned, otherwise you'll end up with ugly panel gaps and they might catch on closing. It's best done with an assistant so that one of you can hold the door while the other fits the bolts. You'll find there is usually some movement in the hinge fixings to allow them to be properly adjusted to take into account slight variances in the tolerances (although, of course, being a German car those tolerances will be a lot tighter than most!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:25:55.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:26:41.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to read data from most vehicles' OBD port using a relatively cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter and some client software. Some GPS units have bluetooth, or you could opt for a USB-style OBD plug. This would also allow you to read things like engine load, temperature, rpm, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdsoftware.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD Software&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004KL0I9I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD2 bluetooth adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:32:44.927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:32:44.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:36:16.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electrical system that handles the spark component of the ignition process in gasoline engines.  Ignition systems are comprised of but not limited to ignition coils, ECU, signal generators, spark plugs and wires, distributor mechanisms, points, condensers and sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ignition System Diagram&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Z6I8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Z6I8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:48:37.143" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:48:37.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6736" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:36:16.643" Score="0" Body="For questions related to the process and components that generate the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in gasoline engines." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:48:46.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:48:46.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6737" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" Score="0" Body="Japanese carmaker known for a variety of small hatchbacks, and the ever-popular mx5/miata sports car" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:39:16.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:40:10.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Automatic Transmission&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/642cm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/642cm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T08:03:46.493" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T08:03:46.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:40:10.160" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding automatic gearboxes, and associated parts such as torque converters" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:40:10.160" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:40:10.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6741" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:41:46.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil change is often one of the first tasks of the amateur mechanic.  The process is pretty similar between vehicles, but some unique problems can arise nonetheless.  Oil changes are not needed on all-electric cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T08:56:47.737" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T08:56:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6742" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:41:46.383" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding changing the engine or transmission lubricant oil, or problems resulting from doing so." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T08:56:52.523" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T08:56:52.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" Score="0" Body="Descended from the first motor car manufacturer, now a luxury German carmaker and part of the Daimler group." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:44:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" Score="0" Body="High-end German carmaker, part of the Volkswagen group." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T12:46:16.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6729" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:09:24.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to have someone in the truck (in park, with e-brake on) to hit the gas while you are under the truck.  Make sure they know what sound to look for first, and when the sound happens, have them try to keep it going so you can determine where it is coming from.  Since it seems to happen at a specific RPM range, you should be able to replicate it while it's in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it happens while it's in park, you can pretty much discard the transmission as the source.  It could quite possibly just be something loose under there that only rattles when a certain pitch resonates (this happens with heat shields a lot), but again, it's impossible to tell until you get under there to determine the origin of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T13:09:24.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2013-07-27T08:59:19.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the vehicle off &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; key out of the ignition locate the &lt;code&gt;fuse box&lt;/code&gt; and remove &lt;code&gt;fuse #30 (DAS transponder/RFL/Instrument cluster)&lt;/code&gt;. Give it about 5-10 second before reinstalling it and then put the key in the ignition and see if everything works. It's possible that the &lt;code&gt;DAS module&lt;/code&gt; had gotten a little confused at some point and had placed itself into a limp&quot;-type mode. Pulling the fuse and then reinstalling it will kill the modules power and force a hard reset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: If this fixes your issue and for some reason it happens again down the line, Then make sure to have it checked by a shop with MBZ equipment (Star Diagnostics).`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T08:59:19.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6695" CreationDate="2013-07-27T09:13:29.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cooling system uses pressure to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. Just as the boiling temperature of water is higher in a pressure cooker, the boiling temperature of coolant is higher if you pressurize the system. Most cars have a pressure limit of 14 to 15 pounds per square inch (psi), which raises the boiling point another 45 F (25 C) so the coolant can withstand the high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T09:13:29.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2013-07-27T10:38:44.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rev surging might be an idle-control valve trying to do what it does. Have a good mechanic take a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T10:38:44.803" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-28T11:57:18.053" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to accelerate my car (a 2000 Hyundai Accent 1.3L hatchback), it gave some misfires and tries to stop the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic said it is due to an airflow sensor failure, and that he can fix it using an airflow sensor off a Nissan FB 15. According to him, both sensors are identical except for the pins. So he is trying to fix that manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound correct? Is it okay to replace a Hyundai airflow sensor with a Nissan one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3482" LastEditorUserId="2987" LastEditDate="2013-09-28T17:21:12.647" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T17:21:12.647" Title="Is it safe to replace a Hyundai air flow sensor with Nissan?" Tags="|nissan|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T10:30:34.380" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Digital display moved to left on speedometer I can only see half of it, any advice please. Can only see part of the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3485" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T11:17:59.347" Title="digital display which shows mileage,mpg,temperature etc has somehow moved to the left as you look at speedo.any advice please" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6754" CreationDate="2013-07-29T10:44:29.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;fix&quot; for this other than replacement. If you can find someone to solder in a new display then this is most likely the cheapest way out. Other than that you're looking at replacing the instrument cluster. I've done quite a few of them on Audi clusters and MBZ/BMW displays it's a rather time consuming job and it's very easy for something to go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T10:44:29.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T13:52:04.977" Score="4" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW with a flat tire, I took it to tire shop but we could not find the bolt nut, and he said he could not do anything. So I went to breakers yard, they had one and tried to get the tyre off, they could not because the nut has been put on too tight. They sent me to a garage, they tried to weld a bolt to try and undo the nut, but the weld just snapped, I still have the flat tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3488" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T08:50:25.127" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T08:50:25.127" Title="The garage I went to cannot get the wheel off my car" Tags="|tires|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6756" CreationDate="2013-07-29T17:04:05.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At some point that wheel will need to come off (even if fix-a-flat works for now).  Find a good general repairs shop (just a tire shop is not likely to be &quot;good enough&quot;) you trust.  They may have to do some cutting...  It may destroy the wheel and likely will damage some suspension parts.  The good news is that it can be taken care of.  The bad news is that it might get a little expensive (both labor AND all the replacement parts needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:04:05.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6752" CreationDate="2013-07-29T17:47:35.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personnaly I would go with an Hyundai sensor since it's made and calibrated for your vehicule. Does the Hyundai and Nissan part are the same price new? If so, why using / hacking a Nissan sensor as the other one is plug an play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you proceed with the Nissan sensor, make sure you remember the fix as if a problem arise later on it can be related on the manual fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:47:35.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T17:55:08.020" Score="3" ViewCount="12819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have put in an aftermarket stereo into my car. (Pioneer DEH-4500BT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked it all up ok and it was all working. However i noticed that it did not turn off with the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before i had brought it i had read up about changing stereos so i knew what this was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a friend of mine to wire the Cigarette lighter to the &quot;Switched 12v&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it turns on and off with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when i turn off the car and leave it for about 30 minutes, the radio stations that i have saved disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Citroen C3 - 1.1i Petrol - 2004 (04).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. My friend is a Car Electrical Specialist, but has gone on holiday for a month today!!&#xA;He also checked correctly which one was permanent live and which was switched live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3490" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T20:23:36.143" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T21:21:52.543" Title="New Car Stereo Not Saving Stations" Tags="|audio|citroen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6756" CreationDate="2013-07-29T17:57:32.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJUUyjJqk5A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; let us know if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also order a new key if you can, in-case you ever need to take another wheel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:57:32.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2013-07-29T18:00:21.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure that the head-unit is hooked up to constant power (usually the yellow wire on the harness). Make sure that it isn't hooked to a circuit that goes off after half an hour or when you open the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T18:00:21.270" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2013-07-29T21:23:15.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHEVs.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X6500BT_OwnersManual112712.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X6500BT_OwnersManual112712.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X6500BT_OwnersManual112712.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black to Ground&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow to &quot;always on&quot;  (battery, fuse protected)  {saves memory}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red to ignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue/White to external amplifier (or insulated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orange (optional) to park lights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3424" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T21:23:15.710" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6756" CreationDate="2013-07-29T22:25:47.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the shop do whatever it takes to get the wheel off. Lug bolts are readily available and not too bad in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a lug that requires a special key and decent mechanic should be able to remove it even without the key. Some shops will tell you that it may damage the wheel in the process but as long as they pay attention to what they're doing then it shouldn't hurt the rim at all, I get them off often with an air hammer it usually works well and only takes a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the head of the lug just broke off and it's just the threads sticking out then just have them replace the hub. Once they've heated it and cranked on it and most likely hit with a hammer there's really no telling what condition the assembly is going to be in once it's all put back together. A new one would be the best/safest route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T22:25:47.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T01:36:13.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Volvo S70. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvo-forums.com/t5915-beeping.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; sort of describes my problem, but I will be more specific.&#xA;At (apparently) random intervals, I will hear a short (half a second) beep coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the car. Sometimes they are consecutive- I have heard probably six or eight in a row- and sometime there is just a single beep. It is high-pitched, maybe around a G. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked my mechanic about it, and he suggested maybe there was a toy or something in the car. I have thoroughly cleaned the car, and found nothing. Beyond that, he had never heard of anything like what I described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I stated, these beeps have no discernible pattern. At first I thought they occurred when I went over a bump, but then they happened when I was just driving, and even when I was waiting at a stop light. I have not heard them while I am in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have been occurring with more and more frequency. In my twenty-five minute drive to work, my car beeps several hundred times. Apparently nothing is wrong with my car or my computer system, I keep it checked and in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone know what causes it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3491" LastEditorUserId="3491" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T15:37:25.310" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T12:32:49.887" Title="1998 Volvo S70 beeping randomly" Tags="|noise|volvo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T01:58:35.877" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I will try to make this quick and short as much as I can. so a couple weeks ago I put the drivers side power door on my 96 Honda civic hatch. everything went well until a couple of days ago I tried putting the passenger power door on. once I made all my connections and thought it was good (I connected the wires that gave power to the doors to the fuse box) I tried the switch on the passenger door window and it worked. so then I tried it through the drivers side and it rolled down. here's where it all messed up. I switched the window locked switch from on to off and my doors stopped working, and now my car will not start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all the things I thought could be wrong. I checked the clutch safety switch I checked the fuses I looked at the starter and tested the wires but everything seemed to have current I then took out the fuse box to see if anything had burned out but I find nothing everything tested good. I have no clue what it can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I gave enough info and if you have questions please ask I really don't want to take this to a shop and spend an arm and both legs. thanks for the help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3492" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T21:19:07.373" Title="My 96 honda civic will not start please help!" Tags="|ignition|power-windows|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6766" CreationDate="2013-07-30T12:42:17.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the only thing that changed between the time it worked and the time it didn't work was the passenger door, I'd be willing to bet that's your problem.  Since there is no way to diagnose the specific electrical malfunction with this site, I suggest removing all the connections from the passenger door, and verifying that everything works as it should (car starts, driver side door controls work, all other electrical components work, etc.)  Then, do the passenger door, adding one control at a time.  If there is a wire that is grounding out, you will have a better idea which wire it is by limiting the possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T12:42:17.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6765" CreationDate="2013-07-30T12:59:16.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't think of anything directly car related.  Got anybody that might be pranking you with one of these?  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/8c52/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/8c52/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T12:59:16.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6765" CreationDate="2013-07-30T17:00:41.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the climate control system can sometimes sound like a beep as the vents are adjusted.  You could check this by turning climate control completely off and repeating your drive.  No beep = climate control doing its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T17:00:41.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:16:13.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a boat, but the electrical systems need a bit of an upgrade before going cruising for any length of time. At the moment, All the 12V runs from a single starter battery, and there are on-board plug sockets to hookup to a mains line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to upgrade it to a larger leisure battery pack. I plan to use 3 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-110AH-Leisure-Battery-Numax-XV31MF-CXV-for-Leisure-Caravan-Marine-Range-/190603406688?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item2c60d92d60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; 110Ah leisure batteries, and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INV-8600PSW-600W-1200-PEAK-12V-PURE-SINE-WAVE-POWER-INVERTER-/300935986223?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&amp;amp;hash=item46112ebc2f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; 600W inverter. I then want to use a connector like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uk-Caravan-Tent-Camping-Electric-Hook-Up-Converter-Mains-Adaptor-Cable-Plug-/180984382482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to connect from the inverter to the hookup socket, so that the onboard plug sockets will provide 240V when the inverter is on, and can be removed and plugged into shore power when needed. I only need 240V for say, a laptop, computer monitor and speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just have a few questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is providing power to all the sockets going to be an issue, or should I simply mount the inverter inside the boat and plug directly into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What amp rating split charge relay would I need? I'm note sure on the engine or alternator size, but it's a diesel narrow-boat type one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Will the plug connector I have mentioned be able to safely carry the current the inverter can kick out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Is this a sensible approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the current and proposed layout... (Green is current, orange is proposed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arcticanaudio.com/STORAGEAREA/boatelectrics.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;proposed layout http://arcticanaudio.com/STORAGEAREA/boatelectrics.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4649" OwnerDisplayName="Adam" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T11:54:04.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:54:04.650" Title="Wiring up boat electronics - 240V and 12V with inverter" Tags="|electrical|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6771" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:55:32.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;600W isn't much power. At 240V it means 2.5A compared to 16A (3840W) through your shore supply. So it depends on what exactly you expect to have plugged in and turned on. You may need to make a list and add up the power needs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't know&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a 13A plug and a 15A connector can safely carry a 2.5A current.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Probably. Not sure about charging your 110Ah batteries in series. You realize that creates a 36V battery bank. Your alternator won't like that. Your schematic has insufficient detail to tell how big the fire will be. I've no experience of this but I'd expect you'd need specific provision (i.e. widgets) that allow three 12V batteries to be charged or discharged in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" OwnerDisplayName="RedGrittyBrick" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T16:38:42.250" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T16:38:42.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6774" CreationDate="2013-07-31T04:16:14.550" Score="2" ViewCount="3685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned 6 cars now and I only remembered doing fuel induction once.  Yesterday I went to the Toyota dealer and they recommended me doing fuel induction every 3000 miles.  I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla.  How often should I do fuel induction and why should I do it if my car runs perfectly fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3496" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T13:57:58.800" Title="How often should I do fuel induction and why should I do it if my car runs perfectly fine?" Tags="|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6773" CreationDate="2013-07-31T12:54:32.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping you may have missed a zero in the recommended service interval in your question. Modern cars don't even recommend oil changes more frequently than 5,000 miles, so an induction service every 3,000 miles is just crazy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some dealers recommend induction service every 30,000 miles, but even then, I feel this is just a money-maker for them, and I doubt your owners manual would include any induction service in the maintenance schedule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel if the car does not have any running or idle problems, then save your money. Quality gasoline has detergent additives anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not alone in this feeling, Tom and Ray of CarTalk have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dallasnews.com/business/columnists/car-talk/20120210-is-induction-service-a-waste-of-money.ece&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar opinion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T12:54:32.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6773" CreationDate="2013-07-31T13:57:58.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the 2009 Corolla: Scheduled Maintenance Guide that you can find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/owners-manuals?p_p_id=changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet&amp;amp;p_p_lifecycle=1&amp;amp;p_p_state=normal&amp;amp;p_p_mode=view&amp;amp;_changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet_action=processRequest&amp;amp;_changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet_javax.portlet.action=processRequest#Warranty-Maintenance-Guides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the nicely organized Toyota site&lt;/a&gt;.  The closest thing to a fuel induction service is an inspection of &quot;Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses&quot; every 30K miles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Visually inspect for corrosion, damage, cracks, and loose or leaking&#xA;  connections. Tighten connections or replace parts as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, the &quot;induction service&quot; might be the &quot;replace parts.&quot;  However, it also says &quot;as necessary.&quot;  If there isn't a problem, I don't think this is worth your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That said, it's always fun to ask someone to explain in detail all the magic beans and lucky rabbits feet that they're going to rub on your car to make it more better.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T13:57:58.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6806" CreationDate="2013-08-01T19:54:55.443" Score="5" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before going on a long trip, say 10 hours a day, times 2 days at highway speeds, what checks or services should I have performed?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This car is a 2007 Lexus ES350, but I'm looking for an answer that would be useful for any car. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T09:42:45.443" Title="What checks or service should be performed before a long trip?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|service|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6778" CreationDate="2013-08-01T20:02:56.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, at the very minimum, you will want to check air pressure in tires, and all fluid levels and ensure that they are at the proper levels. Also, checking the condition of the oil and possibly changing it if it is needed (on a trip that long, probably wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do that if it over halfway till the next one anyways). If staying comfortable is a concern, you may also want to have the AC refrigerant level checked as well. Checking the wear on the tires and rotating them if needed would not be a bad idea as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3502" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T14:03:07.277" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T14:03:07.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6428" CreationDate="2013-08-02T00:47:16.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that yes, you will still have to change your oil.  As you say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;in jet-engines, &lt;em&gt;where the oil is sealed&lt;/em&gt; [emphasis added]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil is not sealed in a car engine and, even if it doesn't wear out very quickly, it will still become dirty.  Car engines and jet engines are very different beasts.  You might be surprised to learn that some automotive oil manufacturers actually use ester-based oil in their synthetics!  There's nothing magic about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a really good explanation of ester-based oils, although it is a little long: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/&quot;&gt;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a really short, but not as helpful explanation from Mobil: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/What_Is_Ester_Oil.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/What_Is_Ester_Oil.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T00:47:16.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2013-08-02T13:21:01.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured this would be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned out someone before me forced an SAE 1/4&quot; bolt into the M10 hole on the engine block, and that's exactly where the vacuum leak was. I had a mechanic put a helicoil in, and the problem has gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T13:21:01.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6233" CreationDate="2013-08-02T23:20:57.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ICV (Idle Control Valve) &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be cleaned once removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; cause the vehicle to backfire. It sounds like you're dealing with a large vacuum leak. Here are some things that you should have a look at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking for any obvious vacuum leaks around the top of the motor, the &lt;code&gt;Vanos&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;Crank Case Ventilation System&lt;/code&gt; should be next on the list. Make sure to check for leaks at the CCV on the rear of the intake manifold (requires removal of the intake manifold if you need to replace it). Also, the gasket behind the Throttle Body. Below I've added diagrams of the systems and their associated hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eAelb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shown here is the Vanos to Crank Case Ventilation. The CCV located on the back of the intake manifold is located behind #7 (it is not numbered in this diagram). Number 5 is located underneath the Intake Maniforld.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nQ1C.png&quot; alt=&quot;vanosccv&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This pipe is aluminum and has internal valves to allow forced air into the cylinder heads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nvrm0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Diagram of the Air Pump and it's associated hoses.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T23:20:57.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6787" CreationDate="2013-08-03T14:48:47.667" Score="3" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got home from work yesterday and parked my '98 Ford Windstar next to the house, my wife pointed out that a 8&quot;x5&quot;x3&quot; black plastic box was sitting at the end of the driveway, and a slightly smaller black plastic box was dangling from the bottom of the driver's side of the van (just at the back edge of the door), its bracket rusted out and only being held to the van by its connecting wire harnesses (it looks like this box is still connected as it should be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue what these do. I haven't tried to start the minivan either. The one that fell completely off smells faintly of gas. The one still hanging on looks like it might be part of the electrical system, given the wires coming into and out of it. It is of course Saturday today and I can't call my local garage to ask them. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3505" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T18:11:53.673" Title="98 Windstar: An 8x5x3 black plastic box fell off" Tags="|electrical|ford|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2013-08-03T18:11:53.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that you're talking about the &lt;code&gt;Fuel Vent Canister&lt;/code&gt; / &lt;code&gt;EVAP Canister&lt;/code&gt;. It is located underneath the vehicle and mounts to the drivers-side frame rail slightly behind the drivers side door area (about the center of the vehicle). Here is a photo for you to compare the part to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYvWr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T18:11:53.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6789" CreationDate="2013-08-03T21:10:53.447" Score="17" ViewCount="149911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2013 Ford Fusion SE with manual transmission. I learned to drive a manual as a kid but picked up a lot of bad habits. In particular I tend to naturally ride the clutch. Now, of course in 1st or Reverse you have to let the clutch slip a little, but I'm having difficulty not letting any slipping from 1st to 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When shifting from 1st to 2nd, will I wear out my clutch or transmission by giving the car some gas as you release the clutch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that the answer should be no, I just need to practice and do: &quot;clutch. switch gear. release clutch. gas.&quot; but at the appropriate engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused because many people on various fora say that it's ok to give gas while you're releasing the clutch, but I'm skeptical because this seems like it would wear on the clutch. I obviously do not want to wear out my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3506" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T21:58:49.443" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T15:17:45.653" Title="Does giving gas while releasing the clutch cause unnecessary wear?" Tags="|clutch|shifting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2013-08-04T01:02:43.990" Score="23" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it ok to give gas while releasing the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but your goal is to give exactly the right amount of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to remember is that the clutch is a consumable part (it's really a whole system of parts that can be consumed but let's pretend that it's a single unique piece for the sake of discussion).  As such, it has a finite supply of work that it can do over its service life, useful or otherwise.  To clarify, this is what it &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Clutch&quot;&gt;means to slip the clutch&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Between these extremes of engagement and disengagement the clutch&#xA;  slips to varying degrees. When slipping it still transmits torque&#xA;  despite the difference in speeds between the engine crankshaft and the&#xA;  transmission input. Because this torque is transmitted by means of&#xA;  friction rather than direct mechanical contact, considerable power is&#xA;  wasted as heat (which is dissipated by the clutch). Properly applied,&#xA;  slip allows the vehicle to be started from a standstill, and when it&#xA;  is already moving, allows the engine rotation to gradually adjust to a&#xA;  newly selected gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, the clutch is a friction-based part (rather than a direct gear).  The above quote means that your goal as the driver is to attempt to ensure that the clutch is spending more time in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction#Static_friction&quot;&gt;static friction&lt;/a&gt; mode (i.e., where the frictional surfaces of the clutch are turning at the same speed, pressed tightly together) rather than a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction#Kinetic_friction&quot;&gt;kinetic friction&lt;/a&gt; mode (i.e., where the frictional surfaces are turning at different speeds and are slipping past each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the answer to your original question is that it is ok to give &lt;em&gt;exactly the right amount&lt;/em&gt; of gas when releasing the clutch pedal.  Any more or less than the optimal amount will lead to some slippage of the clutch.  Some slippage is to be expected, with wear increasing super-linearly as the difference between target and actual revs increases.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better you are at rev matching, the longer your clutch will last (and the more comfortable your passengers will be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: You have to slip the clutch from a stop.  In higher gears, your goal is to avoid slipping the clutch.  You do this by matching engine speed to transmission speed before releasing the clutch pedal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T13:52:08.293" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T13:52:08.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T02:42:52.330" Score="0" ViewCount="6125" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there's a minor scuff mark on the rear tail light of my VW Golf, the result of a collision between it and a plastic suitcase while I was loading the suitcase in the car. It's not a major thing, but still - I'd like to get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to go about doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3409" LastEditorUserId="3409" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T02:55:02.173" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T02:55:02.173" Title="Removing Scuff Mark from a Rear Tail Light" Tags="|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6793" CreationDate="2013-08-05T02:51:42.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common way to handle this will be rubbing compound and preferably a power drill or buffer. If this is a tail light it is likely a plastic of some kind. You can polish out minor surface scratches with rubbing compound and a buffing wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course depends on if this is a scuff or what most would call a scratch. If the depth is significant there isn't much you will be able to do. If it isn't places like Jiffy Lube offer a relatively quick and cheap polish surface for dehazing headlights that may be sufficient. Or, your local auto parts store likely sells a kit designed for the same purpose that could work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1013" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T02:51:42.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3825" CreationDate="2013-08-05T14:07:10.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others state, it could be related to your thermostat. Depending on the operating temperature range you could test it in water and check at which the thermostat will open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue that you might want to check is how accurate your gauge really is. You might want to install an aux. temperature gauge and sender to monitor accurately your engine temp. My gauge on my 1987 Land Cruiser is more an indicator than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T14:07:10.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T14:56:51.233" Score="3" ViewCount="1773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda 3 (2006) and the passenger seat will not recline anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can reach under and feel that a wire which I believe should be 'pulled back' is loose.  Pulling it does nothing so (does not pull out any further),  I assume the other end is where the problem is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now it would be good enough if I can just one time manually change the recline position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't know where the other end is or how to get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;df&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T07:48:44.850" Title="Mazda 3 (2006) passenger seat will not recline anymore" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T19:44:51.743" Score="3" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2005 Mercedes C230 and I have two Mercedes electronic keys - one works as a remote - one works to start the car - how can these be combined/programmed so they are both fully functional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3514" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:55:10.027" Title="Two Mercedes Electronic Keys - One Works As a Remote - One Works to Start The Car - How Can These Be Combined?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|keyless-entry|smartkey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-08-06T01:28:19.357" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using WD-40 and then wiping clean with a terry-cloth towel. You may have to use some elbow grease, but it definitely does the trick. If there are some tough spots to get try little amounts of Goo-Gone or Acetone!! Good luck!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T09:01:41.260" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:01:41.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6801" CreationDate="2013-08-06T13:32:58.707" Score="7" ViewCount="74994" Body="&lt;p&gt;A guy on a Nissan forum asked why he should keep his 2 piece drive shaft in his truck instead of changing over to a 1 piece version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the answer I gave him:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 piece drive shaft (DS) is meant to prevent the drive shaft from pulling out under extreme axle movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front of the DS slips into the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear of the DS bolts to the rear axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the suspension travels, a conventional 1 piece DS slips in and out of the &amp;quot;slip sleeve&amp;quot; (my term) at the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;slip sleeve&amp;quot; is short, there is not much room for the axle to move ...or it will fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2 piece DS fixes the shaft at a central point, preventing the &amp;quot;slip sleeve&amp;quot; from coming out as the rear axle moves around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a 2 piece DS will absorb some of the vibrations when a DS is out of alignment (due to dirt or getting bent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I see, anyway. There could be other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, now that I've satisfied that person, I want to know the actual reason why automotive manufacturers elect to use a 2-piece drive shaft as opposed to the &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;less expensive to manufacture&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; 1-piece drive shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgSPH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1 Piece versus 2 Piece Drive Shaft&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T10:19:45.483" Title="1 Piece versus 2 Piece Drive Shaft" Tags="|transmission|drivetrain|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2013-08-06T13:47:21.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's more related to the angle of the driveshaft from the transmission to the differential. This way you could have more suspension travel without putting too much constraints on parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, to answer your question, it may be related to the geometry of the truck/driveshaft that manufacturer will select one type over another one. If the truck is long, you don't want the drive shaft hanging under the truck which can be hit and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I took my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/2011/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHxvs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DriveShaft angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vibratesoftware.com/images/Working%20Angles%20-%20Two-Piece%20Propshafts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T13:47:21.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6803" CreationDate="2013-08-06T19:41:45.673" Score="8" ViewCount="7129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered a small hole, possibly a puncture, in an outer CV gaiter on the front. The hole was right next to/under the (outer) metal ring holding the CV gaiter, so it wasn't in a very flexible bit. There was quite a lot of oily grease splattered on the inside of the wheel (and presumably much of it also went onto the road). The hole was then closed using silicone sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is if the grease that was blown out of the CV gaiter still had a function, or whether grease that has reached the CV gaiter's &quot;wall&quot; is not useful anyway, because it doesn't go anywhere normally. Should the missing grease be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: Given the position of the hole, and the fact that the grease was pushing out, I'm fairly sure that nothing went &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the CV gaiter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_9-3#First_generation_9-3_engines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The car is a 2001 Saab 9-3 (first generation; B205R)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83PDG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T18:18:13.037" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:18:13.037" Title="Should lost CV gaiter grease be replaced?" Tags="|lubrication|saab|grease|cv-boot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6802" CreationDate="2013-08-06T20:24:41.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you need to replace the grease when you replace the boot. That grease lubricates the joint, if you don't have enough inside the boot the joint can fail prematurely. On a side note don't use one of the quick boots (the ones designed to be put on without taking the CV joint off of the car), in my experience they are worthless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a boot kit, this one is $15.99 and fits a Dodge Neon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YarD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the split boot type that I don't recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1aSI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As R.. Suggested the whole CV joint for your car might be only $60 and that's certainly something to consider, it's only about 15 minutes less work to replace the whole shaft than just the boot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an exploded view of the outer CV joint. It's best to disassmeble when cleaning the old grease and dirt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSkzY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T18:12:02.360" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:12:02.360" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6802" CreationDate="2013-08-06T23:38:18.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the shaft, and throw the boot away. Clean out the old dirty grease, after cleaning the part of course, and replace both the grease and boot. This gives you a chance to inspect the joint, and clean up any dirt residue that will speed up the deterioration of the CV joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T23:38:18.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2013-08-07T03:41:27.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just think of the this way- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use a higher gear, the RPMs will be lower than a low gear at the same speed. However, while shifting to a higher gear, you let off the gas which will cause your RPM to drop low- most of the times I find it a little too low, even for a higher gear. So you want to add some gas, just as Bob wrote, so your engine can catch up to the clutch speed. But just enough so the engine can pick up from idle. You don't want the engine spinning slower or faster than your clutch at a higher gear. Just feel it out and try to match the clutch and RPM as best as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing with downshifting- you are going to have to add gas more aggresively when downshifting since lower gears need to spin at a faster RPM to match the clutch speed. If you don't add enough gas, the slow engine could catch your clutch and cause your wheels to suddenly lose speed and skid. You have to always be the computer that matches engine speed with clutch speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastEditorUserId="3299" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T03:49:07.897" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T03:49:07.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6778" CreationDate="2013-08-07T06:46:11.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts.  You should carry spare belts in the trunk anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoses.  Some people carry spare radiator hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes.  Unless you don't plan on stopping on your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery.  Clean crud off terminals and be sure the battery is decent enough to start the car at some rest area in the middle of nowhere at 3am.  Check voltage to ensure alternator is functioning fully.  Inspect alternator visually for cracked enamel on the little copper wires inside.  If enamel is cracked, have alternator professionally checked or consider replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires.  If one is low, why is it low?  Fix the problem.  Low pressure will cause the tire to overheat and pop on the highway.  People usually learn this the hard way once in their lives.  Then you have to unload all your luggage to get the spare out (which is probably flat too, so check it), in the dark, while trucks are whizzing by at 80mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tires are about bald, you're an accident waiting for a good rain to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was ever a time to have the alignment checked, this is it.  If the cars pulls ever so slightly to the right, after 10hrs, you'll discover it (and be annoyed by it).  In the process of checking the alignment, they will find loose bearings and joints to charge you extra for.  The wheels can't be aligned if they are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't changed your fuel filter in the last couple years, change it.  I once logged onto a forum to inform people that after 4yrs of struggling to figure out why my engine sometimes runs hot, I discovered a clogged fuel filter can cause a lean condition and cause an engine to run hot.  Instead of thanking me for the tip, they nailed me to a cross for not changing my filter in over 4yrs.  Who changes their fuel filter religiously?  Exactly.  Consider changing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least blow the dust off the air filter and see if you can see light through it.  If you've never changed it, consider changing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for cracks in cv-joint boots.  If cracked, replace it quickly before dirt gets inside and grinds the joint to bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil has been mentioned, but I'll mention it again.  Check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your light bulbs.  Always nice to have a cop find an excuse to pull you over in some one-horse town where they have nothing to do but write tickets.  Consider carrying spare bulbs.  Never touch a bulb with your fingers.  The oil from your skin will cause the bulb to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pack some fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your wipers.  No fun to be driving forever in the rain with crappy wipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean windows.  Streaks can get annoying after 10 hrs of looking at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could take a flash light, gas can, water bottle (antifreeze), tools (locking pliers, screwdrivers, socket set), jack, lug wrench, lug nut key (as mentioned), a spare tire, drivers license, insurance card (the up to date one),,, where do you want me to stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3394" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T06:46:11.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-07T14:24:05.263" Score="1" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;My C70 turns over but won't fire. I let it sit for a minute or less and it fires right up. This problem is becoming more and  more frequent. Once it starts the car is great for the rest of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3520" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T17:25:44.067" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T15:59:20.243" Title="2002 Volvo C70 won't start on first try" Tags="|starting|volvo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2013-08-07T14:36:08.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible condensation/moisture in an ignition component.  I've located similar problems in the past by lightly misting the various components with a spray water bottle until I find the cracked part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T14:36:08.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-07T16:57:13.317" Score="5" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get more acquainted with the engine of my car, learn mechanics, and also just clean the engine of accumulated dirt and grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I am considering tearing down the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure, afterwards, I would like to mount it back and get it to work, if possible, better than before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any significant risks with such an operation? Absolute NO-GO reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T19:43:34.207" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T23:26:35.740" Title="Can a full teardown of my 318 TDS (1996 1.7 Gasoil) E36 engine have bad side effects?" Tags="|engine|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6810" CreationDate="2013-08-07T19:28:09.023" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you fail to put it back together properly (even something as simple as reusing a non-reusable part or messing up on a torque/bolt-stretch calculation/install), you can cause a failure (possibly immediate, possibly some time down the road) that will destroy the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're OK with that, it would be a wonderful learning experience.  However, if you're not a skilled mechanic and don't want to get stuck on the side of the road (and with a large repair bill), you may not wish to travel this road...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T19:28:09.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6802" CreationDate="2013-08-08T03:03:39.957" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly unless you enjoy making more work for yourself, I would just seal up the hole, possibly adding grease before doing so if it's not too difficult and you can do so without making the hole worse. Taking off and reattaching the axle is a big enough job by itself, without cleaning, re-greasing, re-fitting, and putting a new boot on the CV joint, that most people would just replace the whole axle when it needs done. (For most vehicles it's a $60-120 part.) But you might as well wait until it really needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T03:03:39.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2013-08-08T07:59:11.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 626 Mazda 2L (manual) and it shook at idle and got progressively worse. It turned out to be the intake manifold seal. Its cheap to fix about $12 for a new gasket. To diagnose it is simple too, spray where the intake manifold joins the engine with a can of &quot;jump start&quot; or similar and if the idle picks up you have an air leak. Mazda's are prone to fault here. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3523" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T07:59:11.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18487" CreationDate="2013-08-08T09:30:40.043" Score="1" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my &lt;code&gt;Mercedes C180&lt;/code&gt;, just got an error about non-functioning steering angle sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand it can affect ESP, but how bad in fact is it? Replacement is rather expensive, so I wonder if I can drive without the sensor, and what are the consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2481" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T22:07:48.713" Title="Steering angle sensor" Tags="|mercedes-benz|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-08T12:25:22.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2390" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I check if all of my motorcycle's suspension parts are working correctly, and carrying an even load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3292" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T09:22:36.607" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:08:31.117" Title="How can I check if my motorcycle's suspension is working correctly?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6679" CreationDate="2013-08-08T14:00:25.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shows were you should place the bank sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZdwUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=182593&amp;amp;d=1328425208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T15:14:29.633" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T15:14:29.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-08T16:47:33.087" Score="6" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, with the supercharged 3800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a trip from Meridian, MS to Cincinnati, OH, and back again (roughly 600 miles one way). With the car being relatively old now, and having over 220k miles on it, I was a bit concerned about her making the trip. She did great the drive up and back, until I turn onto my road and am literally less than 1/10th of a mile from my drive way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slowed down to turn onto my street, while coming out of the turn and accelerating, there was a loud &quot;clunk&quot; type of sound from the front passenger side. The car &quot;bogged&quot; down (by which I mean the RPM's dropped, lights dimmed, power steering was affected etc) and almost went dead, but immediately caught back up and kept running. Needless to say when that happened I stopped, to make sure nothing weird was going to happen. I noticed a slight &quot;roaring&quot; noise coming from the car now that wasn't there before. So I &quot;limped&quot; her the 1/10th of mile to my car port and popped the hood to check her out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My immediate thought was a bearing from a pulley had gone out. I visually inspected the belt and pulleys with the engine both off and running. There was no wobble or &quot;dog-tracking&quot; on any of the pulleys and the &quot;roaring&quot; sounded like it was coming from higher up. The closest I could pin it down to was from somewhere around or in the super charger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know little to nothing about super chargers other than the general theory behind how they work, but certainly nothing along the lines of their internal workings etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;TL;DR: &quot;Roaring&quot; noise apparently coming from the super charger.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question (after that really long story):&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Are there components inside of the super charger that could fail and cause a &quot;roaring&quot; sound? If so, what potential damage would this cause to keep driving the vehicle (not referring to damaging the super charger further as it was not maintained properly by the previous owner and was on its way out anyways)?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3502" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T19:30:32.307" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T19:30:32.307" Title="Supercharger Components That Can Fail" Tags="|engine|forced-induction|super-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6820" CreationDate="2013-08-08T17:24:26.760" Score="4" ViewCount="4111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove the rear wheel on my 2007 Suzuki RMZ450. I've removed the axle bolt and tried banging the axle with a rubber mallet for about two weeks now. IT WON'T BUDGE. Not even a little bit. It seems to be completely seized up. What can I do to loosen it up and eventually remove, hopefully saving the wheel bearings at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:29:35.133" Title="Can't remove stuck rear dirt bike axle" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|axle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6819" CreationDate="2013-08-08T18:29:35.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I have to compliment your stamina. I doubt I'd be able to keep swinging a mallet for two whole weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak the area in a good penetrating oil. I like Wurth's Rost Off, but there are many choices. Hit it with penetrating oil once or twice a day for a while. Give it a few whacks with a mallet, if it doesn't loosen up, hit it with more penetrating oil, and come back tomorrow. Repeat until it's off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I think you might have to resort to using a torch to heat the bearings or the axle.  After the torch treatment, I'd replace the wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:29:35.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35075" CreationDate="2013-08-08T19:08:40.100" Score="8" ViewCount="5838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Honda Civic EX with built-in bluetooth audio support. It has the controls in the steering wheel, etc. Generally it works OK, but I have taken several extended trips in a 2014 Chevy Impala and found that the bluetooth audio system there is much better for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Much&lt;/strong&gt; lower latency between the time the phone (Motorola Droid Razr Maxx HD) starts streaming the audio, and the time it comes out the speakers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crisper, clearer audio -- although this may also be due to the speaker system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zero dropouts -- whereas, in my Civic, audio clicks and pops and drops out from time to time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors have led me to conclude that the bluetooth audio system (the digital / electronics side) in my 2012 Civic &lt;em&gt;just isn't very good&lt;/em&gt;, and could be improved upon with the latest protocol support, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the part even &lt;em&gt;called&lt;/em&gt; that houses the bluetooth audio system? I don't want to dabble in low-level hacking of components, so if I did any upgrade at all, I'd have to know what part to ask for, so I could buy it and install it (or pay to have it installed). If I wanted to have the system upgraded, either using an OEM part if possible or an aftermarket part, what is the smallest discrete &quot;part unit&quot; called that would house the bluetooth audio system?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to upgrade it? I would think of possibly getting a newer model year's version, or an aftermarket system that is physically and electrically compatible so that I could continue using the steering wheel controls, etc. If there's no significant aftermarket industry around this kind of thing, I wouldn't want to go poking around with the electronics directly, soldering chips, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T10:45:50.110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:14:35.120" Title="Upgrading the Bluetooth Audio on 2012 Honda Civic?" Tags="|honda|civic|audio|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6829" CreationDate="2013-08-08T20:13:48.150" Score="1" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be rebuilding my clutch slave cylinder (new spring and piston). The fellow at the parts counter mentioned that I should use the finest possible hone when cleaning up the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into the process of cylinder honing and it seems that, for engine cylinders, it's important to get a cross-hatched pattern of &quot;micro-scratches&quot; that are at a 45˚ angle from the cylinder's vertical. This is supposed to support the oil and keep the rings well-lubed. If that is true, then given the different fluid and much lower speed and repetitions of the clutch piston, does it apply to the clutch cylinder too, or can I just give the inside a good general roughing-up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T10:04:59.587" Title="Should a clutch slave cylinder be honed with a crosshatch pattern like an engine cylinder?" Tags="|clutch|repair|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2013-08-09T00:45:48.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All BMWs have basically the same lift point locations. On an E46, there are the pads or you can use the seam that has two slot around it right by where the pad would sit. This picture depicts where you should lift the car. You can use other points, but at a dealer they only use these four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEZSK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fieldmotorsportbmw.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T00:45:48.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2013-08-09T00:54:34.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you actually poured you oil in the power steering reservoir, and should be easy to fix... If you didn't operate the vehicle long term, you can have it flushed, and have the reservoir refilled. Coolant tanks have a plastic cap, and are easy to see in your vehicle. Also, I believe most BMWs have sealed transmission, so unless you have an older BMW, you shouldn't be able to access the transmission that easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T00:54:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T02:05:09.273" Score="5" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, after a brief near-redline excursion (a long tunnel and open windows &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have been involved), and about 10 minutes of gradually loudening TAK-TAK-TAK-TAK that couldn't be drowned out by turning the radio up, a stall out and a 200 mile tow home, I'm fairly certain I've blown a valve stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that snapping a stem typically causes an inteferance engine to eat up a cylinder and a lot of other very bad things. Which I would assume would cause the engine to seize or work very poorly. However, after getting the car home I was able to rev the engine to 3-4k and drive it a few hundred feet during which, besides the impossibly loud TAK TAK TAK proportional with the rpm's, it behaved &quot;normally&quot; (meaning it revved quickly, idled normally, and drove with reasonable power, but I obviously didn't push it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking under the valve cover didn't reveal more benign damage like a snapped rocker or any obvious bent valve stems so the damage was presumably lower down. However this doesn't mesh with my understanding of snapped stem = dead engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't taken off the head yet to check under, primarily due to lack of desire to spend hours on a worthless cause that could be sold to a scrap yard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is, given that valve damage is most probable, and given that the engine is behaving somewhat reasonably for the sounds its making, how likely is it that I can replace some valves and be able to drive it? Has it just not decided to seize up yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine is an DOHC H23A from a '96 honda prelude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T09:30:38.767" Title="Would a snapped valve necessarily seize the engine?" Tags="|engine|honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2013-08-09T05:01:12.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be many ways as i think just a laymen style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1--  This will be hard- Remove the suspensions system from the bike and place them vertically apply same amount of force on top of them using some weight or any other thing and notice how much they contract the one which contract's more is the weaker one so customize it as per need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2--  If it is a coil suspension you can try yo press the coils(keeping them still attached to the bike) from some tool and measure how much force is needed to press the coil and the one which need less force is the weaker one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;again i am saying this is just laymen's style i could think cause i don't know any professional way to do it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T05:01:12.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T07:33:35.823" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I started vinyl wrapping my car, two doors done. I removed the door handles to do the doors. My first door handle removal and wrap went perfect, nothing wrong with it. However, after removing my second door and putting it back together, pulling on the handle does not open the door. The torx screw is still in place, it didn't fall out. I can still screw it back onto the door handle, but the handle itself doesnt open when it's pulled. Does anyone know what the problem might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3528" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:08:10.863" Title="Door handle stopped working after removing" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2013-08-09T09:30:38.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect it to sieze necessarily. Obviously you'll need to replace the broken valve, and it's spring. Chances are you'll have wrecked the piston as well, as it'll have been trying to squash bits of valve... There's also the possibility of a bent conrod, but I'd have thought that less likely, and scored or damaged cylinder bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least you're looking at replacing and re-lapping the valve (at which point it's worth re-lapping the rest), replacing the piston and honing the bores. If the bore itself is badly scored you might have to get it bored out, at which point you have to do the others as well... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certainly repairable, it just depends on how much damage was done and how much time, effort and money you're willing to spend on it... It doesn't take long to whip the head off and have a look, then decide whether you consider it worth continuing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T09:30:38.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6822" CreationDate="2013-08-09T10:04:59.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The honing of an engine cylinder is done to help the piston rings bed in - the 45 degree angle of the honing and the 90 degree angle of the ring edge wear against each other and create a much tigher tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need this effect in a clutch cylinder, in fact it would be detrimental as you have a rubber seal rather than a steel ring. I would have thought that you'd want the bore to be as smooth as possible to avoid anything that might snag on the seal and damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T10:04:59.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2013-08-09T12:00:00.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ok this is the image of a Roots blower supercharger used in a Pontiac as suggested by Bob Cross so as you can see there are two lobed rotors so maybe the central rod on which they are mounted (i don't know what they are called) would have been worn out and got loose so the rotor would have moved a little bit from the axis and would be rubbing with the other rotor that would be producing the roaring sound &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ilB7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and at a higher rpm the flow of air and the speed of rotation would be causing the rotors not to meet for a long time to make that sound. I think this is a problem as i am not a pro so just take it as advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastEditorUserId="2826" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T15:07:51.610" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T15:07:51.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6832" CreationDate="2013-08-09T15:33:16.937" Score="2" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to tow a light car (rx7) with a vehicle that has no towbar. I only need to move it about 15 meters up a driveway that has a bit of an incline to negotiate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T15:48:45.023" Title="how to tow short distance without towbar fitted" Tags="|ford|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6831" CreationDate="2013-08-09T15:48:45.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tow it from the front (uphill)? Get a tow strap, attach to the OEM anchor points on each vehicle (if available). You could push the vehicle(protecting both vehicle somehow), but damage can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option that might be preferred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy beers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invite friend over and offer some free beers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the car in neutral and ask your friends to push it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use wheel dollies (as pictured) if you need to move the car side way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHiCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important, be safe, block the wheel often to immobilize the vehicle and avoid to back down the slope. Have someone in the vehicle to steer/brake/handbrake in case of something might happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T15:48:45.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6297" CreationDate="2013-08-09T20:06:39.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a weak ignition to me.  Falls down under load, but is fine with no load.  Possibly the ignition coil (upstream of the distributor).  Did you use a spark gap tester to check and make sure your spark at the plugs is at sufficient voltage?  A too low voltage can match your symptoms.  Coil may actually be finding a different path to ground under load (which might be your mystery sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T20:06:39.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6440" CreationDate="2013-08-09T22:44:49.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The following applies to wiring basic rear lights for an un-braked trailer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring up tow-bar electrics is fairly simple if you have a few tools, even if the car doesn't have a connector specifically for a tow-bar connection.  You need not know the colour scheme of the car's wiring either.  Each pin on the tow-ball plug goes directly to the positive wire for the relevant light.  There is also a ground connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard toolkit with screwdrivers, sockets, pliers, and snips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spade connectors to make a firm connection between two wires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A test lamp (An electric test screwdriver with a spiked point, and the other end a crocodile clip to fasten to an earthing point)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnqGP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test Lamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tow-bar electrics kit (Basically the tow-ball plug which will have a 7 core cable on one end).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7surU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tow-ball Plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A friend to help you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larry has written a good answer about towbar electrics by the way: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/464/how-should-the-lights-for-a-trailer-be-hooked-up/465#465&quot;&gt;How should the lights for a trailer be hooked up?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic colour code for the cable coming from the plug is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow - Left Indicator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green - Right Indicator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black - Left Tail Light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown - Right Tail Light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue - Fog Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red - Brake Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;White - Ground Connection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start by fitting the plug beside the tow-ball.  A good plug will include a metal plate which is mounted between the frame and the tow-ball.  You should then run the cable into the back of the car.  There should be a gromit on the back of the car which can be removed to run the cable through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Luckily my Honda CRV had a connector designed specifically for the tow-bar, so I was able to remove this and crimp the cores from the plug in directly.  If your vehicle doesn't have this you must locate the wiring loom which leads to the rear lights.  This may be behind the interior panelling, so remove this where applicable.  Use common sense in terms of tracing forward from the lights to locate the loom.  Once you have located the loom loosen it up by removing the sticky tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the negative end of the test lamp to a good earth (a metal point on the chassis for example).  Note that in the vehicle the chassis is connected to the ground on the battery.  There should also be a ground wire in the loom.  This is ususally thicker, and coloured black or brown - make note of this as you will conenct it later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask your friend to put the left indicator on, then using the sharp, positive end of the test lamp spike the individual wires in the loom until the test lamp flashes in sequence with the turn signal.  Have them switch the indicator off, and make sure the test lamp stops flashing.  You have identified the left indicator.  Connect the yellow core from the plug to this core with a scotch lock: place both cores in the scotch lock and close it with the pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the above step to locate the right indicator. For the brake lights have your friend depress the pedal, then once you have found the correct wire (test lamp is lit) they should tap the pedal to confirm, and do the same for the tail lights.  Connect the relevant wires according to the above colour table.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally connect the gound wire to the white core from the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hook the trailer up, and have your friend activate all the lights while you observe the trailer to confirm everything works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T12:47:02.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6839" CreationDate="2013-08-10T01:39:29.120" Score="7" ViewCount="210326" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2010 Accord indicates that only 15% oil life is left. Oil level seems to be OK. The driver would rather complete the trip, which is 1400 more miles. At the beginning of the trip there were 20% oil, and she drove 650 miles on highways. So, after driving 1400 more miles on highways there should be about 5% oil life left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to complete the trip, or should the driver change oil ASAP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-11T22:23:04.730" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T14:22:02.637" Title="Is it OK to drive Accord with 5% oil life left as indicated?" Tags="|honda|oil-change|accord|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6840" CreationDate="2013-08-10T06:35:08.033" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 16 year old Subaru Legacy automatic which still has its original transmission and has never given me a moment's trouble in 16 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today while pulling out of a parking spot, I suddenly discovered that the shift stick was, how to say--- sticking. There was suddenly a great deal of friction on it. After a little back and forth, it returned to normal for changes between P-R-N-D, but if I tried to go the extra step to the 3-2-1 gears, the friction became so strong the stick almost wouldn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my transmission about to break? What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T13:10:20.717" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T13:10:20.717" Title="Is my transmission about to go?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2013-08-10T08:06:41.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the bike. Some like mine have one fork for damping and one for rebound. You could tie a tiewrap round the fork so that its pushed up/down depending on your forks to see how much travel you get on each. You can do the same on the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZ07N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T09:08:31.117" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:08:31.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2013-08-10T13:21:35.730" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the 15% oil is talking about oil life. Just make sure that you check the oil level and top it off appropriately before taking the trip. Change the oil a quickly as possible once the trip is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T13:21:35.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6836" CreationDate="2013-08-10T15:45:14.867" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is the shifter linkage. If it uses a cable the cable my be frayed on the inside of the casing causing the friction. You may also have some other part of the linkage binding up, but my money is on the cable itself. It doesn't seem likely that it would be an internal transmission problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T15:45:14.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-10T20:19:22.927" Score="7" ViewCount="15501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use my Lada Niva for normal road travel, but at 3500 rpm at 100 kph it is not very fuel efficient. I don’t know what the current differential ratio is, but I assume it has been changed for off-road driving. I already changed a 4-speed gearbox to a 5-speed, decreasing the engine speed from about 5000 rpm at 80 kph to the current 3500 rpm at 100 kph. Can I further reduce it by changing the differential gear ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3536" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-11T22:17:37.850" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T18:09:41.463" Title="Can I improve fuel economy by changing differential’s gear ratio?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|drivetrain|differential|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2013-08-11T23:33:14.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highway miles is very easy on oil, rather than, say, driving a taxi in the city.  You're probably ok.  Depends on how the first 85% percent of the oil's change interval was driven, too, and if it is synthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3539" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T13:10:12.837" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T13:10:12.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-11T23:34:03.830" Score="6" ViewCount="46694" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have noticed that even for a fruther 10 to 15 mins after warm up, the gear lever on my motorcycle (bought brand new - 6 months old) seems really stiff and harder to change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could this have something to do with the clutch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or is it just a cold morning thing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T00:13:40.733" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T15:54:21.487" Title="Motorcycle gears seem really stiff and hard to shift when cold" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|clutch|gears|warmup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2013-08-11T23:52:12.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you might be under geared, and need to raise your gearing. In other words, it sounds like your engine is spinning too many times for each wheel revolution. Raising your gearing will allow your engine to spinning less per wheel revolution, and possibly increase you efficiency. Example: Your engine currently spins 4 times per 1 wheel revolution, raise the gearing to have it go 2 per 1, and one can assume your fuel efficiency will improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T23:52:12.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6848" CreationDate="2013-08-12T00:50:42.290" Score="2" ViewCount="30883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mazda 6, and after cruising for a while on the highway, I started to hear a very loud squealing noise coming from the rear wheel on the drivers side. It's an extremely high pitched and loud squeal... hurts the ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the trip, I felt the alloy wheel itself and it was burning hot. I touched the rotor and it nearly burned me. I tried the other wheels and they weren't hot at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squealing happens at around 40-60 mph, regardless of whether I'm on the brakes or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calipers, rotors, and the wheel itself are extremely hot. It also has a very bitter burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I be able to isolate this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastEditorUserId="3299" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T01:07:03.303" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T07:38:24.613" Title="Sqealing noise from left rear wheel- very hot" Tags="|brakes|noise|wheels|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2013-08-12T02:16:14.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best way is to check the oil dipstick. Before all this computer technology telling you oil life (in fact, none of the cars I own have these computers), we would just check the dipstick. If it's black and it's been 4-5 thousand miles, it's probably a good idea to change the oil. If there are any tints of yellow/light brown, you're good for another few hundred miles before checking again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as an FYI, if your running conventional, I would say 5k miles is good for the grade of motor oil nowadays (the 3k oil change is obsolete, even for conventional). Synthetic oil is good for 7.5k+ miles... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T02:16:14.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4187" CreationDate="2013-08-12T02:17:05.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hot patch is a round small metal cup with rubber sealient on one side and flammable material in the cup. It is clamped onto the tube or tire and the flammable side is punctured with a sharp tool and set on fire, it then bonds the rubber side to the tube or tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3541" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T13:13:23.527" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T13:13:23.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6845" CreationDate="2013-08-12T07:04:09.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parking brake may not be releasing on that wheel.  The parking brake cable may be damaged or rusted.  Its also possible that the hydraulic cylinder in the brake caliper is stuck.  Another possibility is the caliper pins which allow the caliper to stay centered over the rotor are corroded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should inspect the parking brake cabling to ensure smooth operation, inspect the hydraulic cylinder for sticking, and inspect caliper pins for corrosion and proper lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3394" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T07:04:09.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6845" CreationDate="2013-08-12T07:38:24.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it only happens at certain speeds, you may also have a problem with a worn wheel bearing. They tend to whine like a fishwife at certain speeds. But also have a look at your brakes. While a wheel bearing certainly is annoying, it doesn't hurt the ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T07:38:24.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2013-08-12T07:50:41.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, gear ratios are the second largest influence on your fuel consumption. Number one being maladjusted timing. I always relay the story of my and my wife's cars: she has a 1.4 Opel Corsa and I have a 2.0 Turbo Coupe. While my car has more than twice the power of hers and weighs 350kg more, we get about the same consumption figures (she gets 12.5km/l and I get 12.3km/l, or about 8 to 8.2 litres per 100km). The reason is that her car revs about 3000RPM at 100km/h and mine does 2300RPM at the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is going to be that your engine was designed to deliver power at a certain RPM range and if you mess with the final drive, you might be driving in a portion of the rev range where you don't have sufficient torque. Although that's a much bigger problem for highly-tuned performance cars with narrow torque bands than for an off-roader such as your Lada. I would suggest not going too severe. I can't find exact figures, but it's usually okay to fit a 1.6 litre's final drive on a 1.4 litre car. I wouldn't go any further than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quick reference, you shouldn't decrease the size of the final drive by more than 6-8%. but that will already lower your RPM from 3000 to between 2760 and 2820. anything more and your car will be as tardy as a donkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T07:50:41.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6855" CreationDate="2013-08-12T15:55:59.650" Score="3" ViewCount="6406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not getting any power to my cigarette lighter or to the fuse in the fuse box.  I have a 91' Ford Ranger with around 110k miles so other than that and the air conditioning it runs fine.  I was wondering if there is another fuse that I can split the power from (like the instrument panel lights) or something that would have plenty of power to charge a phone from the cigarette lighter.  Is this not something I should do?  I would just love to be able to charge my phone in my car again lol what would be the best and easiest solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T01:30:54.227" Title="can i split off another circuit from fuse box to run power to cigarette lighter?" Tags="|electrical|ford|power|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2013-08-12T17:28:58.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the details of history of operation and maintenance of the car, it is impossible to make accurate recommendation. Assuming this newer car had been taken care of, with scheduled maintenance done on time, and records kept, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/6839/4152&quot;&gt;Larry’s suggestion&lt;/a&gt; is correct. Motorway operation is generally a lot easier on oil than stop-and-go urban traffic, and I would even use up those arbitrary %5 left over afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the car was poorly maintained, subject to frequent hard acceleration, lots of idling and other abusive driving practises, or if the history of newly purchased “pre-loved” car is unknown or doubtful, I would change oil before going on the long trip, because it would be the last thing I would want to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I would not solely trust the computer indicator, because it can malfunction, maintenance tech could forget to reset it etc. There’s no substitute to following (and keeping track of) proper maintenance schedule and regular assessment of oil level and its condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-06-24T14:22:02.637" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T14:22:02.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6861" CreationDate="2013-08-12T21:29:59.870" Score="4" ViewCount="3393" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dirt bike's steering has become increasing harder to steer. Other dirt bikes I've ridden have much smoother, almost effortless, steering. How can I have that same smooth steering? What parts do I need to remove and clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="3526" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T13:18:44.483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T18:49:01.417" Title="How do I clean/grease my dirt bike steering bearings?" Tags="|motorcycle|steering|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6852" CreationDate="2013-08-13T01:30:54.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid any circuit that is currently under use.  Find a circuit that isn't used. Look for a circuit  that powers something not installed in your vehicle or not used. Your broken A/C or power window (if not equipped) circuit could be used although they won't work with the ignition off. You want to avoid adding any load to a circuit that if overloaded will make the vehicle unsafe, so stay away from lighting, wipers, turn signals etc. Check at an auto parts shop (Auto Zone, PepBoys etc) what you need is a fuse powertap. Most look like a fuse with a wire pigtailed off the fuse. That wire will be your hot or load side to the power outlet. The other wire of the outlet will need to be attached to a chassis ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T01:30:54.227" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-13T05:02:19.973" Score="8" ViewCount="111038" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual for my 2003 VW TDI says to change the oil every 12 months or 10,000 miles.  My dealer says every 6 months or 5,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they just trying to make twice as much money off my oil changes, or is there a legitimate reason to change the oil twice as often as VW originally printed in the book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3547" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T23:42:18.080" Title="How often do I need to change my oil in a VW TDI?" Tags="|vw|oil-change|tdi|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2013-08-13T08:00:46.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a certain extent it depends on the type of usage you do, but for an average driver doing average miles (i.e. a mixture of highway, country and urban driving), I'd say to stick with the manufacturer's recommendation - but make sure you also stick to the recommended specification of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that oil technologies and manufacturing tolerances have improved massively over the last 20 years or so, meaning that services don't need to be as frequent as they used to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't take a car of that age to a main dealer, once it's got the the age when keeping a full service history is no longer important, I'd go with a small independant or do it myself...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T08:00:46.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2013-08-13T10:54:48.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends what type of oil you use.  Synthetic can go longer between changes because it doesn't have viscosity modifiers that breakdown.  For instance 5w-30 dyno oil is actually 5w oil with viscosity modifiers to make it act like 30 when hot.  As the oil is churned about inside the engine, the modifiers break down until you're left with 5w oil that acts like 5w oil when hot (not good).  Synthetic oil is different.  The base stock of the oil is 5w-30 and doesn't break down to 5w with use, so you can go much longer between changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen several car owner manuals that are now stating that oils do not need to be changed but every 7,500 miles or more. The same manual also states OR every 12 months, whichever occurs first. My feeling is that you can probably go 5,000 miles on the average (in a sports car) but you must change your oil in the spring time at a minimum, particularly up north. Oils form waxes in icy cold weather. There is a permanent thickening of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some automotive manufacturers are backing down on oil change intervals to 5,000 miles or less and some advocate changing the oil at least every 6 months as well. I think this is because of the tendency for oils to thicken in very hot engines (not ambient conditions, just hot engines). Also because of thickening from the cold of winter and from sludge build up that cannot be filtered out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3394" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T10:54:48.197" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6928" CreationDate="2013-08-13T11:11:20.720" Score="5" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving across Europe, i noticed the car was using water. I drove slowly and got to the destination. Since then, the symptoms have been getting stranger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water loss is caused by excess pressure in the system, no visible leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes the radiator works (gets hot) and the engine does not heat, sometimes the opposite happens. In this case I stop and wait for the engine to cool off so no damage has been done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Today on a stone cold engine we opened the water cap and the cooling circuit was still under a lot of pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump is almost brand new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The condition of the thermostat is unknown.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what I am looking at here. Any help much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much checking and testing, here is the new status:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the top hose off and found a small piece of instant gasket from the new water pump last year (I didn't know about this replacement until I took the thermostat out). I think this was blocking the pressure equalizing tube. The thermostat was fine, as was the thermoswitch on the radiator. I drained the circuit : no sludge, and I even ran water both ways through the radiator: it came out clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when i run it, the top hose seems rather hard, as if there was a lot of pressure in there. Is this normal? Obviously there should be pressure, but before there was less, although this could be that the circuit was filled without being burped. I have refilled it with good coolant, and burped it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="24" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T10:38:28.783" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T11:11:55.790" Title="Strange cooling circuit problems in a 1997 vw golf mk3 tdi" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2013-08-13T12:48:48.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermostat will open/close when reaching certain temperature. If it does not work properly you can see some of the symptoms you currently have. This is, usually, not an expensive part to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T12:48:48.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2013-08-13T13:21:23.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a while, steering bearings can become filled with grit and grime, causing steering to feel not so smooth. Here are the steps to cleaning and greasing your steering bearings so that steering feels smooth and fluid again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disassembly - In order to keep up with bolts, hand tighten bolts back in their respective receptor holes after removing components.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove fork guards (can leave brake caliper attached to fork guard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove steering stem nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove front forks and front fender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove top triple clamp (including attached handlebars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove castle nut and top steering bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove bottom triple clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning - All components can be cleaned using contact-cleaner and/or WD-40. Remove as much grit, grime, dirt, and old grease as possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean steering tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean top steering bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean triple clamp tube and attached bottom steering bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greasing - Grease bearings using waterproof grease. Example: 'Bel-Ray No. 2 Waterproof Grease'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease top and bottom opening of steering tube liberally with an acid brush or finger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease top steering bearing by putting a dollop of grease in your hand and dragging the edge of the bearing component in/out of the grease, making sure grease penetrates through bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease triple clamp tube with a thin layer of grease along the entire tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease bottom bearing, attached to triple clamp tube, by 'stuffing' bearing with grease using an acid brush or finger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reassembly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place top bearing back inside steering tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall bottom triple clamp and tighten castle nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall top triple clamp, but do not completely tighten steering stem nut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall forks, but do not completely tighten triple clamp bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten steering stem nut completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten forks completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall front fender and fork guards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="3526" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T18:49:01.417" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T18:49:01.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2013-08-13T14:31:25.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not every dealer is trying to squeeze you for every cent they can although some certainly are. Giving the dealer the benefit of the doubt, ask them why they think you should change it more often. It is possible they are looking at the miles you drive compared to the average and assuming you drive short trips which are particularly tough on diesels and need to change oil more frequently or that your oil looks especially dirty. If they can,t give you answer then follow the recommended guideline. Make sure you check the oil level regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T14:31:25.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6871" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:39:00.373" Score="-1" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car newbie here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my Citroen C3 Picasso in the shop to do a routine service. The mechanic just called me to say that I should get my front disc brakes and pads replaced, as they're nearly gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He quoted £295 with VAT included for all of this (just front), but a quick look online seems to show that the disc brakes cost around £15 each and the pads around £22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was also saying that I need to get the windscreen wipers replaced, which were £58. Online they also sell for £10 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be much better to get these online and just get them fitted in the mechanic, for a fraction of the cost? Or am I missing something important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T09:09:56.550" Title="Got a call from the mechanic saying I need new disc brakes. Can I buy them online instead?" Tags="|maintenance|repair|car|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-08-14T13:59:37.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:55:20.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot to consider when replacing the brakes on a vehicle. The first thing I would get from the mechanic is the brand and grade of pads and rotors that he is going to replace these with. I would also request the thickness of the rotors, and compare them with the manufacturer's minimum thickness and see if they can be &quot;turned&quot; (a process of essentially &quot;shaving&quot; the metal down until it is a smooth service again) instead of replacing them, provided the rotors are enough above the minimum thickness to accommodate the process. Another thing to consider is friction material. Most manufacturers will recommend a certain friction material and it is, IMHO, always a good idea to stick with their recommendations. In my experience, most newer vehicle manufacturers recommend a ceramic pad, as opposed to the cheaper &quot;semi-metallic&quot; pads. The other thing that you will have to keep in mind is the labor rate of the mechanic, which, at least here in the States, tends to be much higher than the cost of the parts. Another thing to consider is the warranty attached to the items. Being that pads and rotors are a &quot;wear&quot; part, there are a lot of places that will not warranty on wear. However there are a few brands/stores/mechanics that will warranty the part when it is worn out, saving you from paying the money again. Just as a reference/comparison, I recently replaced the front pads and rotors on my Pontiac Grand Prix myself, and &quot;Top of the line&quot; Wagner Thermoquiet Pads (ceramic) and Bosch rotors cost me right at $200, just in parts. However, these were purchased at a local parts house and not online where prices are a lot cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to wipers, there are many &quot;schools of thought&quot; that I have come across. A lot of people think, that since they are going to replace them roughly once a year, in the location I live this is about normal, that cheaper is better. Personally, I prefer a good brand that is going to hold up better, if taken care of properly, and require less maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience, there are some automotive shops that will not perform the work with customer supplied parts, or if they do, they will not have any type of warranty or guarantee with them. I would also find out the shops policy on this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3502" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:55:20.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:59:53.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you bring a steak to a restaurant and ask them to cook it?  When you compare on line prices against what the shop charges did you consider your time as a cost added to the item? If you spent 1/2 hour doing price, quality and delivery time research at $70 an hour the mechanics is charging, you spent $35.  The shop has to get the parts from a supplier. The shop either pays someone to get the parts which is an added cost. Some suppliers will deliver the parts, this cost is again added into the charged price of the part. If the shop is large enough some has to receive the parts verify they are correct, assign them to the job, and track the billing. You are also paying some of the shops overhead with this added cost.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T16:59:53.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2013-08-13T18:34:05.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not inclined to do brakes yourself, I would just say let the shop handle it from start to finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I strongly encourage you to just go buy some wipers and install them yourself. Paying someone to install wipers is like paying someone to clip on a button. You don't even need tools!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T18:34:05.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11633" CreationDate="2013-08-13T20:12:30.640" Score="2" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;After removing and disassembling my FMF Factory 4.1 dirt bike silencer, I saw that the inner core was cracked and extremely rusty (having the potential for more cracks). I definitely want to fix this so that I'm not riding with a faulty silencer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere that I can buy just the core? Or should I just go ahead and spend the money for a new silencer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T05:40:57.243" Title="Dirt bike silencer core cracked/rusted" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2013-08-14T07:17:22.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a bad distributor, coil or spark plug. The symptoms are consistent with most of the reports I've had when the problem turned out to be somewhere between the distributor (or coilpack) and the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T07:17:22.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6797" CreationDate="2013-08-14T07:48:44.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with my 1999 Mazda 323 just yesterday. For me, the problem was that I had pulled the back all the way forward for loading (which requires you to pull on lever on the back itself). When I pulled up the seat again, I apparently pulled it somewhat diagonally which made it stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved this problem by getting another pair of hands so we could pull both levers simultaneously and adjust the back diagonally back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T07:48:44.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2013-08-14T09:09:56.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the cost he's quoting you is in the labour for fitting them - you're looking at an hour a side at minimum, probably more. How long did he say it'd take? You're looking at the best part of £70 for the parts by the time you've included delivery (brake discs are heavy!), so assuming 3 hours he's charging you £75 an hour for labour, which is about usual...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd certainly do the wipers yourself though - pay a little more for Bosch ones, they'll take 30 seconds each to fit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T09:09:56.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-15T05:02:58.720" Score="10" ViewCount="36411" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Malibu (Classic, fleet version) with 2.2 L Ecotec four-cylinder engine fails to start. It turns over, and scattered weak pops indicate that there’s rudimentary combustion going on, but it does not catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve pulled the plugs, there was spark, but very weak. Plugs were in very bad condition — fouled up, with electrode eaten away — seems like no one bothered to change them in 120 000 miles. I’ve replaced the plugs, but I’ve found that spark still remained strangely weak, not the bright blue one I would expect. Anyhow, that did not help. Also, there are no plug wires, as there is resistor pack and rubber boots with contacts are all attached together as one unit on top of the engine. Is there way to test if the unit delivers proper voltage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d never worked on GM car before, so I am not sure where to start. As fuel system is concerned, the fuel pump activates, and there is some pressure in the line, as the fuel port on the injector rail squirts fuel when pressed with a screwdriver. I am not sure if check engine light appeared before it happened, but right now all I can see is that it stays on when the motor is being cranked. From the experience with my cars, it should go away once the engine is rotating, as crank sensor is activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve got around to test MIL codes, and it did not throw any, nor were any saved, and all systems checked out okay. Crank sensor (or its wiring) is my primary suspect (Although, it should have thrown the codes, shouldn’t it?), but I want to see what other common problems could cause this condition, and what else I should look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T13:47:52.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T02:26:06.187" Title="Malibu turns over, does not start" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|malibu|ecotec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6875" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:19:37.697" Score="4" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Honda Civic wagon that loses braking power on hot days. I have it working for the initial press, but as I hold down the brakes I slowly lose braking. I have to repeatedly press at red lights, and after a long day of driving my leg gets tired (ha-ha). Still on a cool day the brakes work without problems. A friend of mine said it might be the brake master cylinder, but I wanted to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3513" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T20:42:54.767" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T00:28:08.507" Title="Honda Civic braking problems in warm climate" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6874" CreationDate="2013-08-15T15:16:16.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had brakes issues with my 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser since 2 years, I've had the same symptoms has you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've change all brakes (rear/front), replace some flexible brake hose that were soften due to age and anti-rust treatment with stainless steel hose(might be overkill). Then I bled all four brakes to remove air in the lines which give me a firmer pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have brake but I have to depress my pedal way down to start braking. I know that my master cylinder is faulty because I had bleed it in place and my pedal got less travel to get the same result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check any flexible lines to make sure they are in shape: no cracking or bulging under pressure. Replace if necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect brake bad and drums, replace if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then bleed the brake, it's cheap (only need new fluid) and fast to do. You should now have firmer brake, if not;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could bleed you master in place to see if it make anything or replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing any component of the braking system you'll need to bleed the system according to the manufacturer specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T15:16:16.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2013-08-15T22:15:06.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do the oil change every 7500 miles. A TDI is a very technical engine and with the turbo I would use only fully synthetic 5w30. I’m on a 7.5k interval and am hitting 200k miles on an 05 and it has always pulled very well. On original internals also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T02:54:14.240" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T02:54:14.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6874" CreationDate="2013-08-16T00:28:08.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If after bleeding the brakes and checking the mastercylinder check the replaced brake line. Did you install it in the exact same position as the original? If it passes to close to an exhaust component the heat from the exhaust may be boiling the brakefluid. The boiling fluid would contain a bubble of air that is compressible resulting in low pedal pressure but only while the engine and the exhaust is warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T00:28:08.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7545" CreationDate="2013-08-16T22:30:31.253" Score="2" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The most recent update is at the bottom. This looks interesting.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Smoke&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm confident the smoke is from burning oil. It's slightly blue, absolutely not white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine is warm and I am idling on a downhill slope, then the engine begins letting out &lt;strong&gt;a lot of smoke&lt;/strong&gt;. If&amp;nbsp;the&amp;nbsp;problem does not occur right away, it can quickly surface by revving in Park.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the engine is 'cool', and I am on an uphill slope, I can't get the smoke at all, even intentionally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a small amount of smoke on engine start which goes away entirely in short order. Except, of course if the engine had a lot of smoke right when I turned it off, then there is a lot when the engine starts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle will vibrate if there is a lot of smoke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ruled out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil level is not too high or too low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PCV valve is fine. It properly sucks air while running. The rattle sounds correct. I have not tested whether it blocks air from the opposite direction. There is no noticeable air suction when placing my hand over the on the opening for the oil cap. (I have doubts on the relevance of that test.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Clues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On those times when the engine is letting out significant smoke, if I pull in and park right then, I see &lt;strong&gt;dripping oil&lt;/strong&gt; on the driveway on the way in and a small puddle under the vehicle shortly after I park. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the picture, taken from under the vehicle near the passenger side tire:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(the bottom of the picture is closer to the front of the vehicle)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(the space where the tire belongs is on the lower right of the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XSM5t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of your comments. I will see if I can be more specific on the source of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block Test&lt;/strong&gt; did not reveal a problem. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6900/block-test-air-suction-ends-1999-suburban&quot;&gt;test details&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coolant System Pressure Test&lt;/strong&gt; (engine off) reveals a drop in pressure. (drops from 17 psi to 14 psi in 13 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated?: &lt;strong&gt;Oil pressure&lt;/strong&gt; was low when idling a warm engine (below 10, sometimes quite a bit lower). However, smoke occurs even during the times the pressure is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Related?: After that pressure item, and before this current problem, I incorrectly of &lt;strong&gt;overfilled the oil&lt;/strong&gt;. The vehicle was driven a few times before the oil was drained out again. It is possible that overfilling the oil caused a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update, this looks interesting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvI7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that line of fresh oil shown vertically in the picture. It is definitely coming out of a seam on the side of the engine housing, and making a mess of oil on the starter, cables and tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ujibM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That picture shows the approximate range of the oil. As you can see (or take my word for it), the oil only is leaking out of the vehicle at the rear end (right in the photo) of that side of the engine housing, the line of oil doesn't continue towards the front. (left in photo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate you letting me know what this means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find where oil leads to the exhaust pipe. It looks like it comes straight out of that pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, again, the oil drips only occur if the vehicle has had a lot of smoke before pulling in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T14:26:37.177" Title="Grey smoke when idling 1999 GMC Suburban, coolant system pressure loss" Tags="|oil|exhaust|gmc|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-17T20:51:45.810" Score="5" ViewCount="7269" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a front caliper on a 03 Mazda protege.  The right brake overheated the other day.  I tore it apart and one of the caliper bolts was pretty rusted.  I got a new bolt, pads and greased the bolts.   Today I was on a short trip on the highway and when I got off I could smell the brake over heating again.  I stopped to do some errands and took back roads back home.  I didn't notice any brake problems on the way back and the caliper was a normal temp when I got home.  I'll probably just replace the caliper but I'm wondering what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: &#xA;I ended up replacing the whole caliper after it overheated again.  The overheating of the RF caliper is gone but I still have a weird intermittent cheep sound coming from either the LF or LR brakes.  The sound starts when I press the pedal and goes away as I brake harder.  I've also noticed it while turning which makes me think it's related to the hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3006" LastEditorUserId="3006" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T22:33:13.737" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T22:33:13.737" Title="Intermittently sticky caliper" Tags="|brakes|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-18T00:42:10.673" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1940 Buick Super. I need to remove the master cylinder to rebuild it, but the bolts turn in the frame when I try to  remove the nuts. There is some kind of metal cover over the end of the bolt and no head to grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3566" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-18T02:46:08.620" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T21:25:38.050" Title="1940 Buick Super brake master cylinder removal" Tags="|brakes|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6891" CreationDate="2013-08-18T12:01:30.543" Score="3" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says. Also, how to open the access point (if it non trivial). (It's an M50B25TU engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3379" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T08:02:20.277" Title="Where to pour oil into the engine (BMW E34)?" Tags="|engine|bmw|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6890" CreationDate="2013-08-18T20:15:00.900" Score="6" ViewCount="7188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what might be the problem with my gear. Sorry, my terminology is bad I'm not a car enthusiast. Anyways, when I first turn on the car, I feel a little tension in the gear when I pull down from park and into drive. The tension is felt as I move the gear past neutral into drive. What I've been doing is pulling down to #2 and then pushing it back into drive. If I drive it for a bit then it'll just slip into neutral even though the gear says it is in drive. Then I have to tug on the gear just a tab and it goes back into drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3569" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T21:53:50.473" Title="My gear switches out of Drive and into neutral while driving automatically" Tags="|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6886" CreationDate="2013-08-18T21:25:38.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to the nuts on threaded studs, you can use a nut splitter to get the nuts off. Then you can clean up the threads, and you might have access to the blind side of the mounting point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0DRV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T21:25:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6888" CreationDate="2013-08-18T21:53:50.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loose or broken motor mount can cause your symptoms. The motor mounts limit the movement, isolates the vibration and maintains the position of the motor in relation to the chassis. A worn or broken mount can allow the motor to move out of the correct alignment and cause the shift linkage or cable to shift the transmission as the engine moves beyond the normal limits. This engine torque or twisting and the resulting engine movement is most prevalent during acceleration or deacceleration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T21:53:50.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6887" CreationDate="2013-08-18T23:29:53.067" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This be what the internet gives me. I have never owned a BMW but I hope this helps. In the picture look for the red arrow and on your car look on the left rear side of the engine.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPzlG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3513" LastEditorUserId="3513" LastEditDate="2013-08-18T23:37:31.550" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T23:37:31.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6882" CreationDate="2013-08-19T12:32:32.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the car have a turbocharger? If so, the seals in that could have gone, which would result in oil leaking into the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that photo is taken from underneath the car looking up? In which case the oil could have leaked from somewhere further up and run down onto the exhaust joint we can see. Does the smoke come out of the exhaust at the back of the car, or from the engine bay area (or both)? I would expect to see at least some smoke in the engine bay as that oil burns off the exhaust (you'll be able to smell that quite clearly as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a compression test to check for head gasket failure, which involves removing each spark plug in turn and replacing it with a gauge that reads the amount of compression in the cylinder - if the head gasket is blown, one or two will be well below the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other potential sources include piston rings and valve stem seals, which allow oil to seep into the cylinders while the car is off, resulting in smoke when it's started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T15:53:51.797" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T15:53:51.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6896" CreationDate="2013-08-19T15:58:12.217" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into purchasing my first vehicle. I have a friend who's really into buying/selling VW's and he has a Jetta from the early 2000's with 240 000 km on it that he insists is  a great deal and says I should buy. I have a lot of reservations about a car with that many km on it, especially since I live in Canada and it would have been driven through the winter. I'm a student, and I won't be working full time again until next summer, so I can't afford a major repair within the next year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do VW's really have that superior of engines that it still has lots of life after 240 000 km?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3572" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T07:38:42.660" Title="Purchasing a Used Car - Advice" Tags="|engine|vw|used|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-08-29T22:24:10.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6897" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:55:26.460" Score="7" ViewCount="18806" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Helpful links on how threads got stripped and by who:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878261&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878261&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#fp=470aa19e91d13271&amp;amp;q=dealership+stripped+oil+pan+threads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seems to be a common problem with some shops, where they don't take good care.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2004 Ford Taurus SES, DuraTec V6, 115,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil change performed at dealership. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He indicated the oil pan threads are &quot;almost gone&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says this could lead to a very big leak and a small leak over time (I think there is a small leak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, he says it will cost:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;$275 for a new oil pan &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;$75 for a new gasket&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;few hours labor, $90/hr&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there methods to restore the existing threads on this oil pan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How easy is it to remove the oil pan on this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it Ok to get these parts from a junk yard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other solutions I am unaware of for this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this might be the answer to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4946/ford-taurus-common-oil-leak-area/4950#4950&quot;&gt;older question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T22:35:53.677" Title="Oil pan threads stripped?" Tags="|engine|oil-leak|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6902" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:00:09.773" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;1965 Chevy C-10.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Manual brakes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disk brakes on front - drum in rear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Single brake fluid cylinder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be safer to convert the single cylinder to a dual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it necessary to replace all the brake lines when doing this or is it possible to just replace the cylinder and modify the lines at the cylinder? (The lines seem to be in decent shape). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T22:17:36.623" Title="Converting to a dual master cylinder?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6893" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:35:35.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Researching on the web it looks like this car may have a bad track record in general but can't say for sure about the particular one you are interested in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to save money and get on with your life reliably, there may be something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/jetta/2002/consumer-reviews.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;consumer reviews&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=2000&amp;amp;make=Volkswagen&amp;amp;model=Jetta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; shows the engines have actually been a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="1831" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T01:12:11.790" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T01:12:11.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6894" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:53:27.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided the threads are damaged, one could drill out the hole and place a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helicoil.in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heli-coil&lt;/a&gt; thread insert (or similar) into the now-larger hole. Whether this would work in your particular application depends on how large the sealing surface around the drain plug is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One company markets a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threaded bushing&lt;/a&gt; to repair oil pan drain plugs that performs a similar function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my car, I wouldn't want to do this without pulling the oil pan off the engine, to make sure that any metal chips from the drilling operation don't remain in the oil pan, as they could do damage to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from a comparative standpoint, either way you need a new oil pan gasket, and either way you'll be paying for the labor of removing and re-installing the oil pan. The heli-coil approach has the additional labor of preparing the hole and installing the heli-coil, plus very likely the minor additional cost of a new (larger) drain plug and gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my money, I'd go with a replacement oil pan. If you can find a decent salvaged pan and save some money that way, great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T18:00:20.970" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T18:00:20.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T18:43:51.920" Score="5" ViewCount="27794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 95k miles.  About 2 years ago, I began having periodic trouble with the rear driver's side door lock.  All other doors would lock/unlock with the power locks just fine except for that one.  A few weeks ago, I began having intermittent problems with the rear passenger side lock.  Now, the front driver's side lock has stopped working as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also notice that when I accelerate from a stop (like at a stop sign or red light) I hear the power locks attempt to lock the doors in the same way it would when you first start the car.  It does this even though I have manually locked all of the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound familiar to anyone?  Any idea what could be causing this?  Is it possible this is something as simple as a fuse?  Or does it sound like a more expensive problem?  Any idea how expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3170" LastActivityDate="2021-07-17T16:09:19.893" Title="Problems with Power Door Locks" Tags="|honda|locks|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2013-08-19T20:53:06.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just did the front struts on wife's '95 Camry (V-6).  Bought the quick-strut combo (Springs, struts, mounting plates, bushings, etc., no spring-compressing required) for $80 ea. on ebay.  After you get the wheel off there's two bolts at the bottom (22 mm), and three nuts on top (easy to see with the hood up), and a bolt for the brake line.  Piece of cake.  20 minute job.  One of the easiest things you can do.  You may need an extra pair of hands to put a nut on at the top of the shock tower when reinstalling your replacement strut(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T20:53:06.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T22:02:44.213" Score="5" ViewCount="2747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I performed a block test recently to diagnose &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6882/grey-smoke-from-1999-gmc-suburban&quot;&gt;a problem I'm having&lt;/a&gt;. The liquid stayed blue, but I want to clarify I have done this right. The purpose of the test was to see if I could prove a head gasket failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L29ZJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing some of the coolant using a siphon tool, and placing it in the coolant storage area of the vehicle, I started the engine and tried to test, the coolant level rose and I had to remove more coolant again, but only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I used fresh test fluid, I placed the test unit over the radiator to create the air-tight seal, and then let the engine run awhile, then I used the bulb to suck air through the test fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions say to do it for 2 minutes. What happened with me was that I apparently sucked out air until there was a negative air pressure, and no more air could be sucked out using that bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I did the test once sucking as much air as possible in a short time, and after that, I did it again and paced myself so I could steadily do it for 1&amp;frac12; minutes. I was careful not to let any 'fresh' air into the tube or the radiator. It refused to turn green or yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did test the fluid itself. The same blue fluid turned yellow when exposed to the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It it normal for this negative air pressure to occur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it better to remove air quickly, or slow/steady over the course of 2 minutes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supposing there was a blown head gasket, would this negative air pressure still occur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course I welcome additional relevant information such as how this varies between various vehicles, a summary on how to ensure a good test and/or the limits of what this test could prove or disprove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T01:33:40.860" Title="Block Test: Can't suck any more air, is this normal? (1999 Suburban)" Tags="|leak|gmc|testing|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T22:12:30.583" Score="8" ViewCount="8678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the nature of my problem I've had little success on Google.  I appreciate any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda CR-V EX with 130000 miles on it and I'm the original owner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The week prior to my problem the engine temperature indicator started rising near the red zone so I checked the radiator fluid which was low.  I added fluid and that solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The next week the car wouldn't start.  There was no clicking associated with normal starting.  The battery seemed to have power because the accessories all worked.  I hooked it up to a jump start charger anyway and then when I turned the key there was a loud clank as if the engine was mechanically stuck on something and the extra amperage from the car starter helped it break loose and it started up and seemed to run fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Later that day it started running rough and dying at stops.  The engine was clicking loudly.  I thought maybe the alternator went out but it tested fine and so did the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After some Googling I found that the valves often need adjusting.  I popped the valve cover and set all the valve clearances.  One of the intake valves was tilted to the side and when I undid the lock nut it popped back into place and seemed fine.  I also changed all the spark plugs, changed the oil and oil filter, changed the pcv valve, and the fuel filter.  It started up and ran great but still had the loud clicking &lt;del&gt;that seems to occur on every revolution of the crankshaft&lt;/del&gt; &lt;em&gt;(now seems inconsistent, see edit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;del&gt;I hear the clicking best from near the front driver side of the engine&lt;/del&gt; &lt;em&gt;(now seems center of engine, see edit&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; although it is hard to pinpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I just opened the valve cover again.  The timing belt is in good condition and seems tight enough.  I am about to double check everything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time and any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Valve Control Assembly Inspection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I double checked the valve clearances and checked the rocker that was originally popped to the side and it seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clicking does not happen when I hand crank the engine or when turned by the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to be a problem with the camshafts or rockers or anything I can get to with the valve cover off.  I am hesitant to go deeper into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Clicking Description and Location&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the engine together and ran it to try to pin-point the noise.  It doesn't seem as constant as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes it is &quot;1111111111&quot; sometimes &quot;101010101010&quot; and sometimes &quot;11010110101101&quot; (the ones are clicks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The click is sharp and loud when driving or just giving the engine gas but still sometimes intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The click is quiet or loud at idle with no discernible reason.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At first when the engine warmed and settled into normal idle it stopped clicking for maybe 20 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sound seems to be coming from the center of the engine but I can't really tell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pulled the spark plug wires one by one and ran the engine but I didn't notice any real difference as far as clicking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Video of My Engine Running&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a video of my engine starting, idling, and revving a little on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/rdFDifeGIOs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My CR-V Clicking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the lifter noise.  The click is louder later in the video.  Sorry about the extreme close-ups, it's to try to pin-point the click in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Exhaust System Inspection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to check for an exhaust leak.  I duct taped a shop-vac to the tail-pipe and set it to blow in the exhaust.  Then I sprayed soapy water on the exhaust system.  The connection between the catalytic converter and the &quot;A&quot; pipe gave me soap bubbles indicating a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoping to solve the clicking I disconnected the exhaust where it was leaking.  I checked the gasket and there was a lot of exhaust deposits on the inside of the gasket leading me to believe that maybe the connection wasn't tight enough or the gasket isn't very good.  I ran the engine with the exhaust disconnected from the catalytic converter to see if that stopped the click noise but it only sounded slightly louder.  Would that indicate a damaged exhaust valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I ruled out exhaust leak as the cause of the noise even though there is an exhaust leak that I need to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Leak-Down Test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rigged up a &quot;mirror&quot; and an LED small enough to put through my spark plug openings.  It was a little hard to make out the valves but, they all looked fine except one intake valve on cylinder 1.  I couldn't tell if it was damaged or just partially discolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to rig up an attachment that screws into my spark plug openings for my air compressor so that I could do a crude leak-down test.  I set each cylinder to TDC before testing.  Then I set my compressor at 80psi and then plugged in the air hose and measured what the psi dropped to.  Not an ideal test but, I figured that all the cylinders were subjected to about the same variables and so, if one were leaking, it would show up different from the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;71/80 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;73/80 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;72/80 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;72/80 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are all within 1% of the average result.  Am I correct that this means there isn't a major leaking issue with any of the cylinders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I might have to pull the oil pan and check the rod bearings next, unless there's a better suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;(EDIT&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; Removal of Accessory Belts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prompted by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/3646/anthony-x&quot;&gt;Anthony X&lt;/a&gt;'s comment, I decided to test the engine with the accessories disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The A/C belt was already removed from a previous A/C compressor failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed the power steering belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed the alternator belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the only belts visible in the engine compartment.  I ran the engine with those belts removed and the engine sounded the same and ran the same with the same clicking noises.  So, it isn't one of those accessories.  I'll have to look up if there is anything else I can disconnect to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to checking the rod bearings I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the valve assembly for a second.  If the valve controls and cams all function well and look good and the cylinders hold pressure well with a leak-down test, does this indicate that the valves are functioning properly or is there still something that could be wrong with the valves that would make the noise while they function correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T07:36:09.297" Title="What is this loud semi-regular clicking on a 2001 Honda CR-V?" Tags="|engine|honda|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2013-08-19T22:17:36.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would replace the lines if for no other reason than to limit the number of unions in the lines. When the master cylinder is replaced you will now have two lines running to the proportioning valve. The proportioning valve regulates the pressure to the rear lines thereby helping reduce rear wheel lock-up. It also contains the switch for your in dash brake warning light. The new valve will have two inputs and two outputs. The plumbing most like will require numerous small pieces and fittings to match the old lines to the new valve. Each fitting has a potential to leak so the fewer the better. If you check some of the old truck restoration sources like LMC, Ecklers, Classic Industries you may find prebent lines in regular or stainless steel. They are more costly but the lines are bent and flared perfectly you will have to decide if the convenience is worth the cost. While you are looking for kits consider an adjustable valve. It will allow you to tune the brakes for minimal lock-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T22:17:36.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6911" CreationDate="2013-08-19T22:49:39.330" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 1999 Suburban, which did not have any aftermarket turbocharger installed. So, the only way it could have been installed is from the factory. So, how do I find out whether it has one? What does it look like, and where would it be installed? (or, what codes should I look for on the stickers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T15:23:42.097" Title="How do I determine whether this vehicle has a turbocharger?" Tags="|turbocharger|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6894" CreationDate="2013-08-19T23:48:24.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A web search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=universal%20oil%20drain%20plugs&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;channel=rcs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;universal oil drain plugs&lt;/a&gt; yielded several results. There are several types. One type is shaped like a mushroom with a wing nut on the top. Insert the stem in the drain hole and tighten the wing nut which expands the stem and seals the hole. Another type has a toggle bolt that is inserted in the drain and an attached rubber cap that covers the hole. As I have no experience with them I would talk to the counter guys at several local auto parts stores and see if the have any recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1831" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T05:45:53.240" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T05:45:53.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2013-08-20T08:29:33.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbochargers look like large snails, and are fitted in the first part of the exhaust, between the manifold and the downpipe. They're often paired with an intercooler, which looks like another radiator... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia page for the Suburban suggests that only the Diesel version of the ninth generation were so fitted (which seems odd from a European perspective, as over here virtually all small trucks have been Turbo-Diesel since the late 80s / early 90s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T08:29:33.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T12:05:50.793" Score="3" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 gmc Sierra hd with the 6.5L turbo Diesel engine in it. I just recently bought it and when ever I hold around 1300-1800 rpm the check engine light comes on, when I take my foot off the throttle and the rpms drop to 1000 the light goes out same with if it push the throttle to 2000 rpm the light will go out. I don't understand why this is happening if you can please help me out, thank you steven &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3580" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T14:40:19.817" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T14:40:19.817" Title="Check engine light between 1300-1800 RPM" Tags="|engine|diesel|gmc|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2013-08-20T13:53:19.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing comes to mind is a combustion problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be because of the Head Gasket which is a common issue for Sierra. Has your vehicle's oil recently been changed? And also has the gas cap changed? You should first check the oil cap and gas cap because the sensor gets triggerred by the smoke control which also causes the check engine light to blink. If this is the reason it may cause financial problems for you so you should better consider getting your car checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T13:53:19.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T14:00:11.877" Score="1" ViewCount="4651" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I stop the car, sometimes it will not move forward from 1st gear but if I reverse it will clear the issue. Then I'm able to drive forward in 1st gear again. Reverse seems to reset the car. What can cause theses symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T15:01:50.317" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T20:06:28.377" Title="VW Golf manual will not move forward in 1st gear but can reverse" Tags="|transmission|troubleshooting|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6903" CreationDate="2013-08-20T15:23:42.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case if it's diesel it has a turbo, if it's gas it doesn't. At least from the factory. Now that is specific to the year make and model in your question. As for what they look like. Nick has a good explanation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture it's just to the left of the long green tube in the middle of the picture. That tube is connected to the turbo by a short black hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7WKB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a look from the top. The intake tube has not been painted in this picture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Rst0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T15:23:42.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6913" CreationDate="2013-08-20T17:40:09.700" Score="7" ViewCount="7706" Body="&lt;p&gt;After finding out that my front wheels were both aiming a little bit outward (together by half a degree), and apparently thus having caused the wear on the inside (inch or so) of the front tires, I had a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, before I could even utter my thought, the alignment specialist (who re-aligned the front wheels, and who works for a tire-seller) already strongly stated that moving the rear tires to the front was not an option. Drivability would be horrendously affected. (He also mentioned that moving the front tires to the rear wheels doesn't pose an issue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I trust his sincerity on the matter and I can follow the argument he provided, I still have my doubts whether the effect is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is moving the rear tires to the front really a no-no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are 215/45WR17, the car is front-wheel driven and suffers from understeer. (That last bit of information may be driver-dependent. I don't know.) The tires are directional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final piece of information: What I had in mind was switching the wheels+tires, not only the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="3518" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T18:27:03.997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T11:16:13.417" Title="Is moving the rear tires to the front wheels a no-no?" Tags="|tires|saab|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6912" CreationDate="2013-08-20T17:59:40.960" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living in a country where we need proper winter tires during that season so I have to switch between tires sets twice a year. Each switch I rotate the tires (rotation depends if the tires are direction or not) and mark the position on the one I remove for the next season to make sure to rotate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire rotation is recommended (by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/tp-tp2823-rotation-423.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transport Canada&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/tiresafety/ridesonit/brochure.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;USA DOT&lt;/a&gt;) and I don't see an issue with that. The problem you facing is that your front tire &quot;running band&quot; (the part that touch the ground) may be worn and might need replacement and/or can affect drivability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &#xA;Here some rotation patterns from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountainviewtire.com/a-blog-for-drivers-the-mountain-viewpoint/3-good-reasons-to-rotate-your-tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MoutainViewTire.com&lt;/a&gt; site:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Res5c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLJ7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuDyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T18:38:02.510" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T18:38:02.510" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T19:03:07.437" Score="4" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a replacement passenger side mirror for a 2008 Ford Focus.  I don't need the full assembly, just the actual mirror part.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/51035766774@N01/9555123613/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is an image of the back of the mirror part&lt;/a&gt;.  The part numbers on the back show I think a brand FoMoCo (Ford Motor Co?) with D161H and 18-690RH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Google and Amazon searches are turning up empty for the specific part numbers on the mirror, and I don't need the entire kit, just the mirror.  Is there a place on the Internet where you find specific OEM pieces or am I stuck needing to get the whole mirror and replacing the whole thing...or prying the mirror off of that to snap back on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3583" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T12:02:58.870" Title="2008 Ford Focus replacement passenger mirror" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T19:05:50.577" Score="2" ViewCount="7720" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2004 kia Sedona intermittently refuses to start. I have light, radio, electric windows but just doesn't turn over at all.&#xA;If I leave it a few hours and go back to it, it'll start first time as if nothing was wrong.&#xA;I've tried getting out locking and unlocking, or using my spare key thinking its an immobilizer problem but nothings seems to instantly work.&#xA;Apart from this the vehicle runs fine and can be fine for weeks before happening again&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3584" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T19:15:15.403" Title="2004 Kia sedona intermittently wont start" Tags="|electrical|ignition|alternator|kia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T19:14:44.567" Score="8" ViewCount="1850" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;em&gt;Owner’s Manual&#xA;Saab 9-3 M2001&lt;/em&gt; (front-wheel driven cars):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  When fitting just &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; new pair of tires,&#xA;  these should be fitted to the rear wheels,&#xA;  as these are more critical to the directional&#xA;  stability of the car (e.g. on braking&#xA;  or in a skid). The existing rear tires should&#xA;  therefore be moved to the front. Always&#xA;  move left rear to left front and right rear to&#xA;  right front, so that the direction of rotation&#xA;  remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is somewhat counterintuitive to me. Is it indeed recommended (by other sources) to have the least-worn tires at the rear wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="3518" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T19:40:50.983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T18:07:23.483" Title="Should one fit the least-worn tires to the rear wheels?" Tags="|tires|wheels|saab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2013-08-20T20:25:13.860" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have seen and read over the last few years the &quot;general rule&quot; has become best tires on the rear. In my opinion it is likely the result of litigation by people who were involved in skidding accidents. The theory as far as I understand it, is that with worn tires in the rear, the back end can loose traction and allow the rear of the car to attempt to pass the front while in a high speed turn or emergency braking situation. Any resulting inability of the driver to steer into the skid would become an inherent design defect when the case comes to court. I assume it has been determined by lawyers that it is safer to get stuck in snow because the best tires are on the back, than risk an incident of the back end coming around because you were going to fast in the first place.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T20:25:13.860" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:20:07.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may seem unlikely but I've had similar issues on other vehicles caused by corrosion on the battery terminal posts or loose connections.  The accessories can still work because they require less amperage and the ignition or starter can't get high enough amperage over a barely connected battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a loose connection to the ignition coil (probably not the ignition coil if your engine won't turn over at all) or starter depending on your specific symptoms.  It's a good cheap place to start.  If not then you can have an auto parts store check your battery and alternator for free.  Alternators do really unpredictable things when they start to go from my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:20:07.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2013-08-21T04:28:04.267" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the car... and I mean on which wheels is the traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually front wheel traction cars should have the better tires on the front wheels. But that doesn't mean that having good on front and highly used on the back makes it safe. The problem is that with usage, the technical caracteristics of the tire change and if a tire is tested to stop in 60 meters (for example) from 40-0 mph, a worn down tire will do it in 70 meters. This will cause an imbalance between the front or the rear. Fortunately many modern cars have ABS and the ABS sensor improves stability  and safety even though there is a difference in the tires. From experience I do not recommend changing tires 2 by 2 because this will wear down the new tires faster than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your example is the Saab 9-3 (I had a convertible one :) ) then I recommend to have the least worn tires on the front because it's a front wheel traction car. If your car is a BMW, then having good tires on the back is more crucial. (Especially in winter time) Also it is very important to have winter tires in the winter, as the physical characteristics of the tire are different (&quot;summer&quot; rubber is made to be sticky, but at low temperatures it becomes hard, so if you have worned out summer tires on the front wheels and driving on the highway in a cold winter day, it is highly possible that you will turn the steering wheel and nothing will happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3586" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T04:28:04.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-21T05:13:25.590" Score="17" ViewCount="90105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Colorado, gas stations sell &quot;regular&quot; gasoline which is rated at 85 octane ((M+R)/2).  In most of the rest of the US, 87 octane is the lowest grade available.  (As noted &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/39/what-are-the-benefits-of-premium-high-octane-petrol&quot;&gt;previously&lt;/a&gt;, higher octane fuel can withstand higher compression without detonation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aaa.com/aaa/006/EnCompass/2007/mar/mar_AutoTalk.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article from AAA&lt;/a&gt;, the stated reason is that most of Colorado is at high elevation, above 5000 feet (about 1500 meters), and the thinner air tends to prevent detonation.  Therefore, in theory, one can use the cheaper, lower octane fuel without problems, and save some money.  (85 octane currently tends to be about 3-5% cheaper than 87, which is also sold here.)  However, the article also says that a 2001 state legislative report called this theory into question, with respect to vehicles newer than 1984.  I wasn't able to find a copy of this report to see the specifics; in any case, engines have advanced considerably since 2001, so it isn't clear whether that research would still apply.  Is there more recent research on this topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual for my car (a 2006 Honda Civic) specifies 87 octane fuel.  However, the manual presumably was written for the majority of the customers who live near sea level, and may not have considered altitude effects.  So I would like to know whether I can safely use 85 octane fuel without risking problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow-up, my understanding is that modern engines detect detonation and adjust to eliminate it, at the cost of some performance.  Thus, if I do switch to 85 octane and it turns out to be insufficient for my engine, how could I tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T17:32:15.703" Title="Can I use lower octane fuel at high elevation?" Tags="|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6927" CreationDate="2013-08-21T10:42:15.273" Score="5" ViewCount="1746" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have the ignition switched on, if I press the brake pedal, or use the headlights, the foglight gets turned on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is an earthing issues so I have checked the grounds in the two light clusters at the back, but I am not sure where the headlight clusters are grounded, or what else to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : I remade the main earth on the engine, and now the problem only affects the indicators. So the foglight blinks with the indicators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="24" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T10:24:34.670" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T10:24:34.670" Title="Electrical issues: where are the grounds on a 1997 vw golf mk3 tdi" Tags="|electrical|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6910" CreationDate="2013-08-21T13:18:50.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the exact behavior when the car will not move forward in first gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it feels like the car won't go into gear (i.e. the shift lever doesn't drop into position in 1st gear), this is likely an issue of a worn shift linkage or problems with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Dog_clutch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;transmission dogs&lt;/a&gt;. In either case, &quot;walking through&quot; reverse can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, a transmission will come to rest in a configuration that doesn't allow a gear to be selected because the dogs don't line up with the holes into which they are supposed to fit. In order to then select this gear, you must move the transmission somehow. This can be done by selecting a different gear and rolling the vehicle a bit, then trying again for the gear that you previously could not select. You can also sometimes simply keep pressure on the shift lever towards the gear you are trying to select, while slowly releasing the clutch. As the transmission input shaft starts to turn, the transmission will &quot;pop&quot; into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T13:18:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7624" CreationDate="2013-08-21T19:27:03.170" Score="3" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got in my '04 VW Jetta the other day, the car wouldn't start and the immobilizer light was blinking.  I tried charging the battery, pulling the terminals from the battery, and leaving the key turned to &quot;on&quot; for a half hour (as many people online suggested).  Nothing worked, on all three keys.  I figured I'd take it to the dealer this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I got in my car today to grab something and put my key in on a whim.  The immobilizer light didn't come on, so I started it and it ran just like normal.  I don't understand how this happened, but we're planning a road trip in three weeks and I'd very much not like to be stuck at a gas station in the Tennessee mountains if this happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happened to trigger the immobilizer?  Why wouldn't it turn off?  And is it likely to happen again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Well, the immobilizer is on again.  After stopping at a Speedway to get gas, the car won't turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3589" LastEditorUserId="3589" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T14:46:51.850" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:07:03.773" Title="2004 VW Jetta Immobilizer on, then off, then on again" Tags="|vw|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T01:59:58.693" Score="2" ViewCount="7225" Body="&lt;p&gt;My airbag warning light has been on.  I took it to the dealer, and he says I need a new wiring harness.  It will cost freakin' $3500.  This Lexus dealer has generally treated me well, and their reps don't act like they are on commission, but that sounds like a lot.  He says it is a functional issue, meaning that the airbag could malfunction if I don't get this fixed.  Any thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T10:59:35.637" Title="Airbag warning light for Lexus IS 250" Tags="|warning-light|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6925" CreationDate="2013-08-22T02:24:28.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the airbag on the Lexus IS 250 commonly has your problem.  Other people have been quoted about a $3000 price but that was a couple years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, depending on the year and miles of the car, people have been able to get Lexus to cover some of the cost even if they were just past warranty because it is a known safety issue.  The customer service number I saw was: 1-800-25-LEXUS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some one with a similar issue on &lt;a href=&quot;http://my.is/forums/f127/airbag-light-stays-lit-dashboard-431549/index2.html#post6512555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my.is website.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;82141-53F10 WIRE, INSTRUMENT PAN - $1183.82&#xA;  REPLACED SHORTED SRS WIRING HARNESS PER TSIB LSB016708 - $821.81&#xA;  All in all after misc stuff and tax, $2058.20. Could have been much worse. Calling Lexus customer satisfaction 1-800-25-LEXUS was way worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clublexus.com/forums/6002601-post1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clublexus.com&lt;/a&gt; (it's a 350 though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motor.com/newsletters/20120213/WebFiles/SS4_Lexus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;motor.com&lt;/a&gt; (more specific info)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The price you were quoted seems about par though, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read, if the airbag light is on the airbag system is shut off and will not deploy.  It's best if you get it fixed before driving much. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://my.is/forums/f127/airbag-light-stays-lit-dashboard-431549/#post6502968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my.is&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T06:04:07.233" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T06:04:07.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6921" CreationDate="2013-08-22T08:48:59.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like an earthing issue, but I doubt it would be in the headlight clusters - I'd expect it to be in the rear lamp clusters somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC the Golf has a combined tail and brake lamp, so both filaments will use a common ground. Generally rear clusters earth through a pressed metal frame that forms part of the bulb holders (as the bulbs return through their shells, and a single connection to the car body shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T08:48:59.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6859" CreationDate="2013-08-22T10:28:56.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a piece of instant gasket (from the water pump replacement last year) in the circuit. This was leading to pressure coming back up into the reservoir and pushing water out of the pressure release valve, which is why I was losing water. Also the radiator may have been a bit blocked but we flushed it backwards and that seems to have got rid of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T10:28:56.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7544" CreationDate="2013-08-22T21:59:05.587" Score="5" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my SEAT Ibiza Mk2 for about three years and it's just failed its MOT on the emissions test - there's fuel in the exhaust on idle, and only on idle. It's in the garage at the moment and they're pretty sure the dodgy exhaust reading is down to a misfire on one cylinder. Thus far they've:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapped the HT leads, plugs and injectors around and the same cylinder still misfires, with all the others completely fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run a compression test. The dodgy cylinder compresses fine, but still misfires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The HT leads, plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm are all about a year old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The misfire disappears as soon as there's anything on the throttle, it's only on idle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mention thus far of the lambda or the throttle body, or the cleanliness of the injectors, since presumably all those would produce problems on all cylinders, not just one. I am going to ask about those when I next see them anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say the next step is to take the head off and check the seating of the valves, but according to the chap it isn't likely to be that since the compression is fine, as mentioned. After that, the engine will have to come out for inspection basically piece by piece as he described it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other point of note I can think of is that it had a tank of super for an hour and a half's worth of driving two weekends ago, since that was all the garage had. I've heard that the detergent in that can't do any cleaning in one shot but can disturb any large buildups of crud just enough to block the injectors. Does this sound like a reasonable hypothesis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 1999 Mk2 Ibiza S, 1.4. Does anyone with experience of this model have any pearls of wisdom that could save me the 800 quid or so for completely dismantling the engine? Not that I'm paying that much; I'd rather scrap it. If they can't sort it, it's going to the knackers'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The astute of you will notice that this is not the first time I've posted about misfiring on this car, on this site. Seems like a never-ending worry.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:34:39.060" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:34:39.060" Title="Ibiza Mk2 MOT emissions test failure" Tags="|emissions|misfire|seat-ibiza|seat-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2013-08-22T23:48:11.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edmunds has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/guide-page.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; that lists services by mileage. Who knows where they got those intervals from. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;amp;Number=685586&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; over at bobistheoilguy.com that lists some intervals. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/19-maintenance-service/4823-caution-maintenance-minder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on a CRV owner's forum that describes a way to see upcoming codes. If all else fails, take a box of hot doughnuts down to a dealership and see what you can get out of the service folks. I'll extract some info from those links when I have time. Feel free to edit my post if you beat me to it (suggest an edit if you don't have edit privs).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T23:48:11.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-23T15:16:39.717" Score="5" ViewCount="20717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if a 4-wheel alignment involves taking off all the wheels.  I called NTB to check whether their wheel alignment includes tire rotation and they said it didn't.  But if they have to take all the wheels off, why would it matter which wheel they put on which rotor, i.e. doesn't make any difference to them?  If they can do it without taking the wheels off, then I would understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:01:08.580" Title="Does 4-wheel alignment involve taking wheels off?" Tags="|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6932" CreationDate="2013-08-23T16:15:14.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alignment does not require removing the wheels. The equipment is attached to the wheels while they are in place. I often wondered about the shops that will do a free brake inspection but then charge $20 for tire rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T16:15:14.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2013-08-23T18:21:25.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are saying it is coming out the top of the reservoir, the problem is that there is air in the power steering system. When you run the engine the fluid gets pumped into the rack where any movement tries to turn it to foam, forcing the fluid out of the reservoir. It also makes noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power steering systems are often hard to burp. The basic process is to put the front of the car on jack stands so the front wheels are off the ground and let the engine idle as you turn the steering wheel all the way left and right a few dozen times. The fluid level has to be kept high enough to prevent more air from being drawn in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T18:21:25.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-24T09:39:14.253" Score="1" ViewCount="5329" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2008 Kia Spectra started stalling out when idle. Revving the engine as soon as it started would prevent stalling, but as soon as it dropped below 1500 or so it would stall out again. Check engine light never appeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disconnected the battery for about a minute, then reconnected, hoping to reset the computer. After this, the car started and runs fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I send this to the Kia dealership to take a look at, or is this a problem that will likely not recur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stephen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3597" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T21:28:08.750" Title="2008 Kia: stalls at idle, disconnect battery reset computer, works now, good to go?" Tags="|computer|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6937" CreationDate="2013-08-24T15:32:49.630" Score="10" ViewCount="11072" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dodge Avenger was made in 1996, and the odometer is currently showing 270K miles, just to give you a sense of the age of the vehicle. I've been getting suspiciously high mileage for at least the last year or so. The mileage app I'm using (&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kajda.fuelio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuelio&lt;/a&gt;, highly recommended) says my average mpg is 43, and one fill-up recently my mileage was over 51 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I finally used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.maps.mytracks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Tracks&lt;/a&gt; app (which uses my phone's GPS) and compared its readings to my odometer. I did this several times, and it seems my odometer is consistently showing 1 mile for about every 0.61 actual miles I drive. For instance, on one trip my odometer showed 26.6 miles, and My Tracks said 16.2. At that ratio, my mileage is closer to 26 mpg, which sounds a lot more realistic for this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would be causing this odometer inaccuracy? Just about everything is stock, and I'm using the standard tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a long shot, but any chance my odometer might actually be registering km instead of miles? The ratio is just about right (1 km = 0.62 mi). I have no idea why it would be doing that since it's a US vehicle. It's probably also relevant to mention it's a mechanical odometer, so it's not like I can press a button to switch between miles/km. I've done some googling, but I've only found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484089&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one similar instance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car was built and owned entirely in the US&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I purchased the car in a wrecked condition from a salvage yard and had it rebuilt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm fairly certain the odometer was registering miles when I first bought the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the best of my knowledge the instrument cluster was never changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was having an unrelated problem at one point and changed the ECU with one I bought from a salvage yard in the US. Replacing the new ECU with the original did not correct the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transmission was also rebuilt at one point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="944" LastEditorUserId="944" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T13:03:34.647" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T23:11:28.313" Title="What causes mechanical odometer to switch from miles to kilometers?" Tags="|dodge|gauges|odometer|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6936" CreationDate="2013-08-24T17:38:03.313" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your speedometer is accurate, you can check that with your GPS or phone as well. The only  real option is the cluster (The thing with all the gauges and odometer). You can send it off to have it repaired, or get a used one from a junk yard. If you ever sell the car you are legally bound in most (if not all) US states to tell the buyer of an odometer discrepancy. Just document the current mileage when you change the cluster and what the new cluster had when you installed it. If you get your current cluster repaired then I would just make a note of the mileage when you repaired it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have suggested that this normalish, but this is a major difference in mileage traveled vs mileage reported by the odometer, this is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a normal condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do find it interesting that one mile = 0.621371 km, so if you speedo is correct and reading in mph, your odometer is measuring km. Now depending on where the car was manufactured the odometer may be in km and not miles. Do you have a switch to change from km to miles? Is the readout digital for the odometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odometer is turned by a stepper motor which get's it's input from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) which get's it's information from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). The speedometer gets it's info from the PCM as well. So if the speedometer is showing you the correct speed then we know the VSS is sending the correct info to the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two possibilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a problem with the PCM or PCM programing (software) that is causing the Odometer to read Km,  causing the computer is turning the stepper motor too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wrong stepper motor or gear in the cluster has been installed, either at the factory or when a repair was done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't know if it was ever reading correctly you don't know if it's been that way from the factory, or if a repair prior to your ownership caused the problem. If it's been that way from the factory you car has considerably less miles on it that the odometer shows. Proving that is another problem entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T20:04:52.153" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T20:04:52.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6940" CreationDate="2013-08-25T04:58:33.193" Score="4" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to the salvage yard tomorrow, looking for an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6894/oil-pan-threads-stripped&quot;&gt;engine oil pan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research, it appears oil pans from other model Fords &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; be comparable but I do not see any information that verifies it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where and how does one verify compatible replacement parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T10:45:53.423" Title="Where and how does one verify compatible replacement parts?" Tags="|replace|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6939" CreationDate="2013-08-25T10:45:53.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The salvage yard will use an interchange manual. At one time it was a large series of books but is now a computer program. Each major and some not so major component of a vehicle was given a number. The number is then cataloged and all vehicles that use the same part are listed. When I have doubts I'll check several on line sources of parts. If one source says a 96 Taurus and a 97 Sable part interchange I look up the part for each at several vendors. If each source lists matching part numbers I assume they are the same. There can be confusion as sometimes manufacturers will modify a part mid model year so they will interchange allowing them reduce inventory. This means that an early 1996 part may not fit but a late 1996 part will. I would bring the part and make sure they look the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T10:45:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6936" CreationDate="2013-08-25T14:31:10.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your speedometer sounds particularly inaccurate, the simple fact is that almost all car manufacturers design their speedometers to be inaccurate because of speed legislation in many countries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/how-accurate-is-a-car-speedometer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thecarexpert.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;, EU law says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph.  So if your true speed is 40mph, your speedo could legally be reading up to 50.25mph but never less than 40mph.  Or to put it another way, if your speedo is reading 50mph, you won’t be doing more than 50mph but it’s possible you might actually only be travelling at 40mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure that they comply with the law and make sure that their speedometers are never showing less than true speed under any forseeable circumstances, &lt;strong&gt;car manufacturers will normally deliberately calibrate their speedos to read ‘high’&lt;/strong&gt; by a certain amount.  As your satnav is not the designated device by which a car’s speed is measured, it does not need to incorporate any fudge factoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as a tire wears down, the speed shown will creep higher and higher in relation to the real speed (because the tire has a smaller diameter, it will end up spinning more times per mile, indicating a higher speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T15:35:39.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6901" CreationDate="2013-08-25T14:38:14.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clicks and Knocks are really hard to determine without actually looking at the car itself. There are a lot of things that can cause them. Transmissions, AC, Valves, Exhausts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I found a problem similar to yours on Honda-Tech that might be something to check. They appear to think it has something to do with the Engine Valves. I know you adjusted them but perhaps they need replacement here is the link I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2740192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2740192&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that Helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3602" LastEditorUserId="3602" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T13:47:52.280" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T13:47:52.280" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6924" CreationDate="2013-08-25T14:49:56.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, we took it to the dealer. Turns out it was the induction coil, but I don't know how that's possible. If anyone can explain that, I'll make that the accepted answer. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3589" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:49:56.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-25T18:54:58.850" Score="5" ViewCount="4299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 (5.9 L Cummins diesel). I’d replaced blower motor about 3 weeks ago and all was well until it started working intermittently. Resistor looked burnt and cracked so I’d also replaced it. Motor sounded like it was trying to run as if low voltage. Now nothing. Does this model year truck have a relay in the system as well as the resistor, and if so, where is it located? There are no relays in fuse box under the hood. Or is this a problem with the switch, and how test it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3603" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T05:04:04.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T00:13:06.947" Title="Dodge Ram blower motor works intermittently" Tags="|dodge|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17920" CreationDate="2013-08-25T19:20:45.253" Score="0" ViewCount="2606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the roof reinforcements for my VW Tiguan. I am quite concerned about the amount of hours required by car dealer shop for this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQ8Nn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Namely items 3 and 4 need to be replaced. This requires the roof to be cut and then re-welded back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea how many hours a shop would require for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : I haven't gone to any shops yet to get a quote, I was asking here first so I could have a &quot;defense&quot; in case I need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www18.zippyshare.com/v/68930826/file.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;repair document original from VW AG&lt;/a&gt;. It's a 28 MB PDF describing the procedure step-by-step (English language). See page 154 &quot;Renewing front roof cross member&quot; and page 158 &quot;Renewing rear roof cross member&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, along precise diagrams and tools specifications, it says that you need to saw out the roof, cut out the old cross members, weld in the new members and then put a new roof on by bonding and then welding (and, of course, paint job finally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2 : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Porsche Bucharest (VW Dealer) quoted 20h (1500 USD - roof and cross members renewal and windshield renewal) and 2000 USD materials (this includes roof, cross members and windshield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastEditorUserId="108" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T13:38:49.493" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:36:14.003" Title="How many hours for roof reinforcements replacement" Tags="|body-work|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6947" CreationDate="2013-08-25T19:54:36.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1209" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sanding a panel down to bare metal getting ready to correct the damage before primer, paint and clear. What kind of mask should be warn to protect my lungs.  I'm assuming one of those diy disposable dusk masks are no good for such a job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a beard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastEditorUserId="3391" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T09:01:06.020" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:14:00.687" Title="what type of mask should I use?" Tags="|paint|rust|repair|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6946" CreationDate="2013-08-26T04:30:49.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a mask to filter particulates, an N95 HEPA mask or should be sufficient, they are usually pink or purple in color. You are correct that a dust mask is insufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a beard, or as I do just think these are more comfortable then you can use a PAPR (pronounced papper) or Powered Air Purifying Respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of the facepieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shop3m.com/3m-gvp-series-loose-fitting-facepiece-l-series-rg695qcvgv.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M™ GVP-Series Loose-Fitting Facepiece L-Series&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tysi7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fitritesafety.com/powered-air-purifying-respirator-papr-c-170_279/3mbe103-p-2352.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M™ Hood BE-10-3 (Formerly 522-01-11R03) White, Regular, Tychem® QC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJTkL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These hoods are hooked to an air supply, either a pack on your belt that uses filters similar to the ones you wear on your face and blow the air into your mask, or a connected to an air supply that supplies Grade D air to your mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a complete system including the air purifying belt pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-PPE-Safety-Solutions/Personal-Protective-Equipment/Products/Product-Catalog/~/3M-Breathe-Easy-Butyl-Rubber-Hood-Powered-Air-Purifying-Respirator-PAPR-System-Respiratory-Protection-FR-57N10-with-NiMH-Battery-and-3M-Cartridge-FR-57-453-03-02R06-1-cs?N=4294930267%205011378&amp;amp;Nr=AND%28hrcy_id:036B0D5Q7Dgs_JPBSZR4L72_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&amp;amp;rt=d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M™ Breathe Easy™ Butyl Rubber Hood Powered Air Purifying Respirator (PAPR) System, Respiratory Protection FR-57N10, with NiMH Battery and 3M™ Cartridge FR-57/453-03-02R06 1/cs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VKHK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option IMHO mainly because it blows cool air in your face, but it does require a compressed air source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-PPE-Safety-Solutions/Personal-Protective-Equipment/Products/Product-Catalog/~/3M-Versaflo-Air-Regulating-Valve-Assembly-V-300-37019-AAD-1-Case?N=4294930582%205011378&amp;amp;&amp;amp;Nr=AND%28hrcy_id:GS2VZDQXXLgs_3CFD6F38BN_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&amp;amp;rt=d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M™ Versaflo™ Air Regulating Valve Assembly V-300/37019(AAD)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBoxk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use an air pump designed to supply the mask instead of compressed air. It plugs into the wall 120 volt and is sitting in an area of clean air and pumps it to the mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these work without the mask sealing agaist your face, they provide positive pressure inside the mask so outside air doesn't get sucked in. They will constanly blow air outside the mask to prevent contaminates from entering the mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T18:14:00.687" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:14:00.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6936" CreationDate="2013-08-26T11:54:33.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go with a combination of the standard overstating of mileage on the car (well put by Rory) and also GPS inaccuracy...  I've been doing Road Rally for a long time and a big part of that is precision mileage measurement.  As an instrument rated pilot, I also have a strong interest in GPS navigation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I learned when experimenting with GPS for Road Rally is that it does a couple things that cause it to understate mileage.  It doesn't pick up the extra mileage from going up/down hills properly and it tends to cut corners (it'll grab a sample a little before you get to the corner and a little after and connect them with a straight line shorter than the actual mileage traveled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS is great tool for figuring out where you are at a point in time.  It is also great at telling you how far from some other point you are at a specific point in time.  It's not a great tool for taking a whole bunch of those points and adding them up accurately (samples take time, and you can't do continuous samples without killing the battery, so they're periodic and therefore susceptible to additive error).  Also, standard GPS vertical height measurement is poor due to the low angle of the GPS constellation.  With WAAS support, height measurement becomes much more accurate (as it involves at least 1 high angle satellite), but not all devices/applications support WAAS (or even height measurement at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T11:54:33.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6920" CreationDate="2013-08-26T15:03:54.083" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely put in whatever the manual is saying, else if you are going to service, you might have some trouble over there. Also it is for the sake of durability of engine internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T15:03:54.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6885" CreationDate="2013-08-26T15:15:15.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cylinders that push the brake pads in order to slow down the car are probably rusted out and some times do not move back in when you push the brake. Best bet would be to try to open up brake oil reservoir, put some wd40 between the cylinders and push them back in with pliers. Then put it all together again and push the brake few times and see if it will work :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T15:15:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-26T15:57:01.367" Score="8" ViewCount="85463" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago my 2003 Honda Accord would not start. Turning the key turned on all electronics and I could hear what I believe to be something in the fuel system spinning as I attempted to start the car. I replaced the battery, so that is not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called AAA to have them tow the car. I pushed the car down the driveway so the tow truck could access the car. When the AAA driver got there, he wanted to observe the issue in case there was an easy solution he could help with. I turned the key and the car started right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repair shop still thinks I should bring the car in to have the starter diagnosed (for a $110 fee). My question is: is it possible that I have a bad starter? Can a starter fail several times, and then work again without any work being done to it? Should I get the diagnostics done, or wait for this to happen again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3608" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:01:55.483" Title="Can a starter fail and then work intermittently?" Tags="|honda|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6951" CreationDate="2013-08-26T17:27:41.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sticky solenoid like Mac said.  Or, a loose ground strap.  Or, just a dead spot on the starter.  It certainly can happen.  It's probably something that replacing the starter would fix, but not necessarily (example being the one I had where it was a ground strap the detached and was just sometimes resting in the right spot.  Replacing the starter didn't help, since the guy that did it didn't know that there was a missing ground since he didn't ever remove it!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T17:27:41.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6935" CreationDate="2013-08-26T20:54:04.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that your long term fuel trim was commanding the fuel injectors to inject less fuel.  When you start your car, you are running open loop (without the feedback of the Oxygen Sensor).  In the warm-up phase, if your long term fuel trim is low, the car will stall since it is injecting less fuel than it was calibrated for.  When you disconnected the battery, you reset the fuel trim adaptation, making all the values reset back to zero (no fuel is being trimmed).  Even though no MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) came on, you can still check your fuel trim values which are stored in the non-volatile memory of the ECU as long as you don't disconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would change your air filter and monitor the long term fuel trim adaptation to make sure it is staying within reasonable values (+/- 5%).  If this is not the case, then I would take it to a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3609" LastEditorUserId="3609" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T21:28:08.750" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T21:28:08.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6955" CreationDate="2013-08-27T01:58:55.173" Score="4" ViewCount="2994" Body="&lt;p&gt;My windows keep fogging up, even when it wasn't very cold outside. It seems to form in minutes and unlike regular fog, the droplets are massive! I have to run the AC on high for several minutes before there's a small patch to see through. I pushed down on the carpet and sure enough the carpet in my car is wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how it happened, but what's the best way to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to dry out the inside of my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for bonus points, how do I get rid of that damp smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2937" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T07:43:37.060" Title="Drying out wet carpet" Tags="|ac|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6954" CreationDate="2013-08-27T03:53:38.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best success I've had drying any carpet is with an upholstery attachment on a carpet cleaner or with a shop-vac.  Since it smells damp maybe it would be a good time to use a carpet cleaner on the whole thing.  If you don't have one of those they have vacuums at car washes that should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.damprid.com/products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Damp-Rid&lt;/a&gt; might help dry it out and help the smell after you get the majority dried.  Damp-Rid sucks extra moisture out of the air which can help with damp but won't do much against anything too wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T04:00:00.777" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T04:00:00.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6957" CreationDate="2013-08-27T09:36:35.677" Score="2" ViewCount="2984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Mercedes SLK 230 (R170), with an interesting combination of problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A)  The hydraulics for the convertible top are low (to the point where the top won't even start to open anymore),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B)  The trunk latch is disconnected internally, so the trunk can't be opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the top were still working, it can be opened partway to access the back of the trunk latch, and operate it manually...  or if the trunk would open, I'd have access to the manual release for the top.  But the combination of these two means I have no way to open either now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:  Are there any other tricks I can use in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible idea:  If I tear out the headliner (which I'd probably have to cut away, since the screws are only accessible with the top out), and disconnect the lines coming from the hydraulic pump, would this allow the top to move by hand?  This seems plausible, but I don't want to destroy my headliner on a hunch...  But, the only other idea I have at this point is drilling a hole behind the license plate to get to the latch, so I'm hoping to find another solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3611" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T20:11:44.840" Title="Mercedes SLK (R170) convertible top/trunk release" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6956" CreationDate="2013-08-27T10:02:36.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the hydraulic pump? Can you get at that to top up the fluid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to try and remove the rear trim panel (i.e. the bits behind the seats), and see if there is a way through the rear bulkhead into the trunk. Many cars have a non-solid bulkhead in order to save weight. You ought to be able to remove the trim without damaging anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T10:02:36.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6885" CreationDate="2013-08-27T10:18:41.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old are the flexi-hoses going to the calipers? Old rubber hoses can partially collapse internally, which allows the brake to be applied (as you have lots of pressure), but preventing it from being released again (as the back-pressure is much lower), causing the caliper to stick on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they've not been done, replace them and bleed the system through with new fluid - much cheaper than a pair of calipers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth cleaning up the sliding bolts rather than just greasing them - they should move fairly freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T10:18:41.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2013-08-27T12:55:25.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Diesel Engine will not emit carbon monoxide no matter what. The Diesel engine, even at idle, has a ratio of fuel / air much-much lower than a typical gasoline engine. Therefore there's more than enough Os for the Cs (oxygen for the carbon) so no monoxide will ever be produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be other harmful gases in the exhaust or at least it's annoying to smell. It simply shouldn't happen so there definitely is a problem, most likely, as you reported, an exhaust leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also happen while going in reverse or when there is a strong wind from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T12:55:25.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4505" CreationDate="2013-08-27T13:05:14.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch out to not have oil in the coolant or vice-versa. Check the oil level and coolant level and their quality. Usually a head gasket could be a cause of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining this with &quot;no acceleration speed&quot; this could mean a timing issue too. Maybe the engine timing is not well set and the combustion is not done properly. This means unburned fuel and lots of smoke. I had this once, almost one tooth slipped from the timing belt and had the same problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T13:05:14.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5651" CreationDate="2013-08-27T13:11:08.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add on mac's answer, other than soot build-up on the exhaust there could also be a MAF sensor issue. The Mass Air Flow sensor reads the air that goes into the engine and regulates the diesel fuel quantity accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this sensor begins to go bad it reads a higher value than real leading the engine to inject too much fuel which, of course, won't be burned but produce smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MAF sensor can be checked with a typical OBD-2 engine reader such as a cheap interface from eBay combined with VAG-COM software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T13:11:08.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2013-08-27T16:19:01.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this happened on an 1995 Passat and it was the slave cylinder which got replaced and problem fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T16:19:01.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2013-08-27T18:11:58.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a big job but I can't tell you how many hours it will take. The body shop looks up the cost in a estimating guide, and generates and estimate based on that. The differnce in shops is going to be in the parts used, dealer vs aftermarket, amount of parts mark up, the paint system used, and the labor rate the shop charges. Just know how long it should take is only part of the equation and won't be a good way for you to compare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to two different body shops and get a written estimates. Don't tell the second shop you already have an estimate, just get an estimate. If those two are comparable then your done, if they are a lot different get a third estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for an &lt;a href=&quot;http://i-car.com/&quot;&gt;I-CAR&lt;/a&gt; gold class shop if there is one in your area. You will know that they are at least educated on what to do. Disclaimer I am an I-CAR instructor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.assuredperformancecare.com/&quot;&gt;Assured Performance Collision Care&lt;/a&gt; to find a reputable body shop. Disclaimer I am an inspector for them. They verify many aspects of the body shop, equipment, training, business practices etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T18:11:58.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2013-08-27T22:34:32.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you will have a problem with your car's wiring not supporting enough amps for all of those machines running concurrently.  2 laptops and a mini running all at the same time could be over the typical 10 or 15 amps (== 120-180 Watts at 12 Volts, minus the inefficiency of inversion from DC to AC and some other factors) that DC outlet circuits in most car electrical systems are rated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge (thickness) of the wiring used determines the maximum load it can safely convey; based on this, manufacturers provide fuses or circuit breakers that ensure that the load will not exceed that level.  Putting too much current through a wire will cause it to heat up, like a light bulb filament or a stove burner, to the point of being a fire hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars have DC outlets on more than one circuit; if this is the case with the Innova, you may be able to avoid such problems by hooking the  different machines up to multiple DC-AC inverters plugged into separate circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you may need to connect your second battery up to a new circuit and make sure that you use wires that can easily take the load you're planning to put on it (and use fuses or breakers to avoid fire hazards in the case of overload).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="874" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T05:38:17.767" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T05:38:17.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6976" CreationDate="2013-08-28T00:18:11.750" Score="7" ViewCount="5671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mazda5 2013 with a single key, so I am trying to get a spare (at least one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the part number ( &lt;strong&gt;G2YA-76-2GXB&lt;/strong&gt; ) - dealer would charge $50 for the key plus $70 for the programming&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are few places where this key (exact part number) could be purchased for $10 - $15, but I am not sure if these keys would work or not:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Some keys are advertized as &lt;strong&gt;40 bit&lt;/strong&gt; and some as &lt;strong&gt;80 bit&lt;/strong&gt; (and they have same part number mentioned above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) According to sellers, some keys could be &lt;strong&gt;cloned&lt;/strong&gt; by local locksmith (Ace hardware etc) and some could not (they must be &lt;strong&gt;programmed&lt;/strong&gt; by the dealer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;could someone clarify these technical details? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:31:41.413" Title="Second key for Mazda5 2013 - programming vs cloning, 80 bit vs 40 bit" Tags="|mazda|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2013-08-28T01:20:44.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://car-part.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://car-part.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the largest parts database I have come across. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most are used parts but for this part, I would not think that is a problem....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T01:20:44.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T05:16:23.197" Score="5" ViewCount="2327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guides to jumping a car with a dead battery commonly advise that the cable from the negative terminal of the good battery be connected to the &lt;em&gt;chassis&lt;/em&gt; of the stalled car rather than to the negative terminal of the dead battery.  One of the reasons for this is that a spark or electricity arc can occur when the clamp is in close proximity to the terminal or chassis, and this spark can ignite hydrogen if it happens too close to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this similarly a risk when removing or installing a battery?  I.E. can a spark cross the small space between the cable and the negative terminal as you are removing that cable, igniting hydrogen?  Why or why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T18:09:36.637" Title="Is there a risk of a spark igniting hydrogen when removing or installing a battery?" Tags="|battery|replace|jump-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6970" CreationDate="2013-08-28T07:23:30.017" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a used Certified Pre-Owned(CPO) car. I have read that external mechanic inspection is recommended when buying used cars but does that hold true for CPO cars too? Would it be wise to get the inspection done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car I am looking at is Infiniti G37 2010 convertible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T11:21:45.670" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:55:59.027" Title="External mechanic inspection on CPO car?" Tags="|inspection|car|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-09-18T18:08:53.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6893" CreationDate="2013-08-28T07:38:42.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never buy used goods from friends. Ever. The VW Jetta is probably one of the better high-mileage cars you can buy but I've never seen one with more kilometers than that on the road. If it was mostly driven on the highway at cruising speeds and there are no weird sounds and creaks, it might be worth considering, but I won't ever touch a second-hand car with more than 160 000km on the clock. Anything more and you have to start replacing expensive parts like steering racks, wiring looms, alternators, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T07:38:42.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6968" CreationDate="2013-08-28T07:59:01.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on who you're buying it from and who inspected it.  Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Certified_Pre-Owned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sums it up pretty well&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The factory basically makes it refurbished but the price is generally higher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dealer might certify the car themselves which means it's up to them how thorough they are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An independent agency might be used that could be less biased but still set their own standards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all generally come with warranties that you can't get on a used car, which affords some peace of mind.  A second opinion from a mechanic would still help you know what you're getting into and if it's what you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T19:55:59.027" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:55:59.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6967" CreationDate="2013-08-28T20:06:30.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to preface my answer by saying that I think the OP has asked an interesting theoretical question that deserves a theoretical/hypothetical discussion. In no way should the following be taken as an indication that removing/installing batteries carries low risk of explosion. Take precautions when working around vehicle batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk of hydrogen gas explosion during battery removal/installation can be similar to the risk during jump starting, though as a thought experiment (read 'i have no proof'), I believe there are some important differences: the potential for/severity of arcing, and the presence/concentration of hydrogen gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the arc: when removing/installing a battery, presumably the vehicle has most electric systems switched off, so there is very little current draw on the battery, and thus lower potential for arcing (it's nearly an open circuit, which of course would not arc). Compare this with jump-starting. You have one vehicle with a good battery at 12-14V, and another vehicle with a discharged battery (maybe &amp;lt; 11V) that is prepared to suck up a whole bunch of current while trying to recharge itself. I would think this creates a higher potential for arcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the hydrogen gas: this stuff is lighter than air. It would tend to dissipate. when installing a new battery, you're making the connection in an airspace that should be largely free of hydrogen--When you removed the old battery, you removed the only source of hydrogen, and the new battery was just recently introduced to the space, and so would not tend to have had a chance to emit much hydrogen in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, be careful whenever working around batteries. One source says &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uwsa.edu/risk-management/ehs/occupational-safety/misc-safety/battery-safety/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2300 people a year in the US&lt;/a&gt; are injured by lead-acid batteries, many of these are acid burns to the face. Ouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T20:06:30.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6975" CreationDate="2013-08-28T20:33:07.567" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car, Megane '98 1.6e Petrol Hatch, started to take a long time to ignite. At first I thought that the fuel does not reach the chambers because I always have to park it in places with big incline, but I think it's actually related to the fact that the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months back I had problems with a coil pack. Is it possible that the other one also needs changing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastEditorUserId="3261" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T08:37:27.883" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T09:50:41.657" Title="Prolonged ignition" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2013-08-28T21:06:53.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the change in noise level was real and not imagined, it was likely due to the new oil being cleaner and of the right viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides being depleted of detergents, old oil also has a different viscosity than new oil. Depending on how the oil is engineered, and whether or not it's contaminated with fuel, the oil may get thinner or thicker with age. The oil viscosity definitely affects mechanical noise levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some engines are notorious for being noisy on dirty/old oil. When my old Miata needed an oil change, the lifters would tap very loudly. Replacing the oil would always make the noise go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:06:53.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5064" CreationDate="2013-08-28T21:22:43.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That wear is caused by driving on a flat tire. I often slip tires off the bead when offroading and have to drive a short distance on the flat to get to an area where I can change the wheel and tire. When I get the tire replaced, it always looks like that inside, even from driving just a short distance (less than a mile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:22:43.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6972" CreationDate="2013-08-29T04:33:36.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the other ignition coil went bad it could cause a misfire which could make it hard to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets fairly cold where I live.  One of the first things to check would be your battery.  If it doesn't have enough cold cranking amps, either because it is old or because it never had enough, then it can be really hard to start a car in the cold.  Also check the battery connections.  If they are corroded or loose it will stop the battery from delivering enough starting amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs can also make it harder to start if they have become worn or fouled.  Spark plug wires can also become worn and not allow enough amperage to get a good spark every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you can see there are a lot of things that could be wrong, more than listed here.  It's one of those things that you need to start somewhere, the cheap options first, and eliminate issues until you find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you check for corrosion or a loose connection on the battery you can have an auto parts store check your battery and while your there your alternator as well.  I suppose the alternator is another thing that might make it hard to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood, though, is that if one ignition coil went out then the other wasn't far behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that others have a hard time starting the Megane in the cold as well.  See the video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykDtTxPPtq0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Renault Megane Scenic 1.6e - Hard Cold Start -20&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube.  Based on the comments on that video the battery may be underpowered for the cold unless it is at full charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-20 C cold start after -25 C night. It started so hard because of short drives (~4km) the day before and the battery is too small for&#xA;  such long and cold starts. But if it is charged after longer drive it&#xA;  can stand -24 from the first time and it did few days ago. And of&#xA;  course, the battery is charging now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the battery causing you problems is in the realm of possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T09:50:41.657" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T09:50:41.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2013-08-29T05:36:03.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ikeyless.com/vehicles/Mazda/MAZDA5/2013/1000391/&quot;&gt;iKeyless website&lt;/a&gt;, which indicates that you cannot program the key yourself and would need the dealer or a locksmith to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Key Cutting/Programming:&lt;/strong&gt;  Programming instructions are not included.&#xA;  This device requires cutting and programming by a dealership or&#xA;  locksmith. The procedure takes only a few seconds to complete and many&#xA;  dealerships will do it for free as a courtesy. If your dealer does&#xA;  charge a fee, local locksmiths usually charge much less to remain&#xA;  competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then on &lt;a href=&quot;http://locksmithcharley.com/transponder/mazda.shtml&quot;&gt;locksmithcharley.com&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Their &lt;em&gt;(Mazda's)&lt;/em&gt; newer &quot;80-bit&quot; offering 5913441 has &quot;SA&quot; stamped into the key.&#xA;  Strattec's 5913441 and ILCO's H84PT 80-bit key blanks are backwards&#xA;  compatible meaning that they will work in vehicles with a 40-bit&#xA;  system. Keys cut on 40-bit blanks will not start vehicles requiring&#xA;  80-bit keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads me to believe that the your car, being &quot;newer&quot;, would use an 80 bit key.  If your key has an &quot;SA&quot; stamped in it then you have an 80 bit key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a 2013 Mazda 5 needs an 80 bit key based on information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=3&amp;amp;ved=0CD4QFjAC&amp;amp;url=http://www.transponderisland.com/mazda-flip-part-with-transponder-1727.html&amp;amp;ei=c9keUuPHIc3MigLO6YGQCw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHdcaduU81lJ_xcBHLwn9wLBqzhTw&amp;amp;sig2=67B1-3CueoAX4HV4jwfy4g&amp;amp;bvm=bv.51495398,d.dGI&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot;&gt;transponderisland.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mazda Flip Blade Part with Transponder Chip 80 Bit Related Products&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2012 - 2013 Mazda Transponder Key 80 Bit - TI Brand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2012 - 2013 Mazda Transponder Key 80 Bit - TI Brand&#xA;  2005 - 2013 Mazda 2 5 CX-7 CX-9 Remote Flip Key - 3B Remote Part BGBX1T478SKE125-01&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2005 - 2013 Mazda 2 5 CX-7 CX-9 Remote Flip Key - 3B Remote Part BGBX1T478SKE125-01&#xA;  2004 - 2010 Mazda Remote Flip Key Blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2004 - 2010 Mazda Remote Flip Key Blade&#xA;  2003 - 2013 Mazda Transponder Key MAZ24RT17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2003 - 2013 Mazda Transponder Key MAZ24RT17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find if the &quot;G2YA-76-2GXB&quot; is 80 bit but, if that is the part number of the key that came with your car then I think it would be 80 bit since your Mazda 5 seems to be 80 bit compatible and the 40 bit keys aren't backwards compatible with 80 bit systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like an 80 bit key will work with either system and is therefore your safest bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T05:41:54.043" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T05:41:54.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6967" CreationDate="2013-08-29T15:07:11.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batteries give off the most hydrogen while charging or discharging so an idle disconnected battery probably isn't in danger of exploding. If you are connecting a battery to a vehicle the risk is pretty low because the battery shouldn't be producing hydrogen. If you are connecting jumpers to another vehicle's battery there is a higher risk because there could be some draw on the battery and also if you had just been cranking the vehicle then you just placed a large load on the battery which could have caused a decent amount of hydrogen to be produced. In this case I would say give the battery a few minutes to air out with the hood open then connect jumpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_TnsHu2u4c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of how easy a battery can explode under the right circumstances (while charging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also AGM batteries are completely safe from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T15:07:11.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6986" CreationDate="2013-08-29T21:21:10.500" Score="5" ViewCount="2435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered some PIAA silicone blades for my wife's 2006 Honda Civic. They are nominally the right length, but when I put them on they don't lay flat — they curve up so the end is a few inches off the windshield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted PIAA and they said they don't sell blades for this vehicle, but I would like to know if I can just use a shorter size, use an adapter, or get slide-in silicone replacement blades for the &quot;actual&quot; wiper blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I got the non-silicone wipers from the dealer, and they are depicted below. Note there are not metal support brackets like there are with most blades that you can buy. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I would be able to replace the inserts with the appropriately-sized silicone ones from PIAA, but I'm not sure. I'll wait until these wear out to find out. The nominal sizes for these are 575 and 650 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XzX9D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Civic Sedan Wiper Blades&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T23:05:14.323" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T05:01:29.320" Title="Silicone wiper blades for Honda Civic sedan?" Tags="|honda|civic|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6810" CreationDate="2013-08-29T23:26:35.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a good book that describes this engine...study the design etc. before I attempted anything like this, rather than just &quot;go for it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason being, there is a lot that goes into putting them back together that you will not see or even notice when you are taking it apart. So yes, it is very possible to screw it up, as it is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not just a reversal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of breaking it apart (breaking it apart is the easy part). My buddies have been doing this for years and they still run into problems all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Bruce-Jerry/bruce-jerry.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;many classes&lt;/a&gt; in the US for this, not sure about Vienna though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you can afford to make mistakes and are just &quot;tinkering&quot;, then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T23:26:35.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6984" CreationDate="2013-08-30T10:24:57.307" Score="4" ViewCount="19420" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/vent-fuel-tank-FAQ.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; it is possible to get more diesel fuel in your tank by pressing in the vent latch on the filler neck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Look inside the filler neck and you can see a button, see below for detailed pics.  Press on it when the tank is almost full and you will hear the hiss of air venting.  This lets you add about 2 extra gallons of fuel.  Venting does not increase fuel economy at all, it just lets you add a little more fuel to increase miles per tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heated diesel expands much less than gasoline so the likelihood of overflowing fuel is very low&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any evidence that these claims are true and is putting more diesel fuel in in this way safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seminecis's answer is good, but are there any similar regulations in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastEditorUserId="3622" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T14:05:57.130" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T18:42:36.440" Title="Filling diesel vehicles - Vent trick" Tags="|diesel|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2013-08-30T13:30:51.410" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite any opinions of safety it seems that gas tanks are manufactured to not accept more than 95% of their total volume because of regulations.  Here is a quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=393.67&quot;&gt;US Department of Transportation Federal Motor Carry Safety Administration Regulation 393.67 Subpart E&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(12) Overfill restriction. A liquid fuel tank manufactured on or after January 1, 1973, must be designed and constructed so that— &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(i) The tank cannot be filled, in a normal filling operation, with a quantity of fuel that exceeds 95 percent of the tank's liquid capacity; and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(ii) When the tank is filled, normal expansion of the fuel will not cause fuel spillage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevron's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevronwithtechron.com/products/documents/Diesel_Fuel_Tech_Review.pdf&quot;&gt;Diesel Fuels Technical Review&lt;/a&gt; - page 34 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;THERMAL EXPANSION Like all liquids, diesel fuel expands slightly in&#xA;  volume as its temperature increases. The coefficient of thermal&#xA;  expansion measures the rate of the expansion. A typical value of the&#xA;  coefficient of thermal expansion for diesel fuel is 0.00083 per degree&#xA;  Celsius (0.00046 per degree Fahrenheit). Using this value, 1.000&#xA;  gallon of diesel fuel at&#xA;  - 7 °C (2 0°F) will expand to 1.037 gallons at 3 8°C (100°F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... meaning if your tank has a capacity rated at 25 gallons it is possible for it to expand up to 25.925 gallons in the described scenario.  Meanwhile, a tank designed to hold 25 gallons of fuel must be designed to be at 95% capacity maximum, which means a tank that can hold 25 gallons will actually be a 26.31579 gallon tank to allow 5% for expansion.  That means that in the above scenario there would be 0.39079 gallons of empty space left after expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though that scenario seems extreme, it is possible to encounter even more extreme situations even if it is unlikely.  I wouldn't take the chance of overfilling the tank since it sounds dangerous and modifications described on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/vent-fuel-tank-FAQ.htm&quot;&gt;website you linked to&lt;/a&gt; might even be illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find official regulation pertaining to the UK but, there is a guide at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-maintenance-safety-security/vehicle-maintenance&quot;&gt;gov.uk&lt;/a&gt; that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Diesel spillage is dangerous to other road users, particularly&#xA;  motorcyclists, as it will significantly reduce the level of grip&#xA;  between the tyres and road surface. Double-check for fuel leaks and&#xA;  make sure that - you do not overfill your fuel tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not it is legal to overfill a fuel tank it is still dangerous in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious and did a little more research on the differences of thermal expansion between gasoline and diesel fuel.  I found the coefficient of thermal expansion for gasoline on &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070608101130AA79rH6&quot;&gt;answers.yahoo.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion&quot;&gt;wikipedia.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                Diesel        Gasoline&#xA;coefficient    .00083        .00095&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same -7 Deg. C (20 Deg. F) to 38 Deg. C (100 Deg. F) temperature increase as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 Gallon    1.03735 G        1.04275 G        Difference of 0.0054 G (~= 4 tsp.)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same 25 Gallon tank as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;25 Gallons    25.93375 G        26.06875 G        Difference of 0.135 G (~= 1/8 G)&#xA;% of total    3.735% Expansion    4.275% Expansion    0.54%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I take to mean that the author of the article you mentioned is technically correct that diesel expands less than gasoline but, he is very inaccurate describing diesel as expanding &quot;much less&quot; than gasoline.  Looking at the comparison objectively, I would say that the thermal expansion of diesel and gasoline fuels are comparably similar rather than noticeably different.  In fact, I would interpret the numbers as: &quot;they both expanded one gallon in the 25 gallon tank.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm trying to say that I don't fully trust the author of that article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-08-31T09:58:58.393" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T09:58:58.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6979" CreationDate="2013-08-30T20:44:48.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Windshield wipers for the 2006 civic sedan don't seem to be available as an aftermarket part.  On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/76396-wiper-blades-what-sizes-civic-si-06-a.html#post7783141&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;8thcivic.com&lt;/a&gt; jeff618 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;08-10 Civic SEDAN = 26&amp;quot; DS &amp;amp; 22&amp;quot; PS (more common wiper arm, yet&#xA;different from the coupe arm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;06-07 Civic SEDAN = Have to go to dealer - aftermarket replacements&#xA;are NOT AVAILABLE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;02-05 Civics EXCEPT si = 21&amp;quot; DS &amp;amp; 19&amp;quot; PS (fairly standard attachment)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few options I can think of...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You would likely need to get new wipers from a Honda dealer in order to fit correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you still have the original wipers you could order blade inserts to go in those that are the same size as your originals and they should conform to the right shape being in the original hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you still have the originals you might even be able to use the inserts from the PIAA wipers if they are similar enough style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate that stores only sell full wiper replacements now even though all you usually need is the rubber insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T20:44:48.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7248" CreationDate="2013-08-30T21:16:57.463" Score="6" ViewCount="42512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have custom rims and Kumho 205/45/RF17 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/kumho-tires/ecsta-spt-run-flat-205-45r17-469606.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;run-flats&lt;/a&gt; on my 2007 R56 Mini Cooper S (not convertible), and the tire pressure light came on. I checked, and indeed one of the tires was low (around 29 psi) but when I inflated them all to 38, in the service menu, the warning still did not give me an option to dismiss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I can't find the correct psi for these tires. The Max Pressure on the side says 51 (!) but the recommendation on the sticker on the inside of the door was 38. Does the sticker apply no matter what rims and tires I have on there? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I still am wondering if the sticker on the door applies to ALL tires you could put on a car. However I found a step-by-step &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=68452354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide to resetting the pressure alert&lt;/a&gt;, which I will also try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastEditorUserId="3620" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T00:20:45.567" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:12:01.590" Title="Proper pressure for run-flats on Mini Cooper" Tags="|tires|service|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6989" CreationDate="2013-08-30T22:28:24.010" Score="6" ViewCount="11088" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6894/oil-pan-threads-stripped/6904#6904&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, we discuss stripped oil pan threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned it is a result of user error - over tightening and cross threading, by the dealership I consistently go to. Many people have come across this and demand new oil pans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the dealership and they agreed to &quot;fix it&quot; NO charge. (Obviously they know they made an error.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution: install an over sized oil drain plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said OK and left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I just get &quot;screwed&quot; or is this a legitimate fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T22:31:36.523" Title="Dealership Installed &quot;Oversized&quot; Oil Drain Plug As Solution" Tags="|engine|oil-leak|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6988" CreationDate="2013-08-30T23:28:51.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be satisfied with the repair. I would push for some free service, maybe a couple of free oil changes. Demand a refund for the service you paid for when the damage was discovered I would also demand a letter accepting blame and a promise to replace the oil pan for free if you find the repair unacceptable at a later date due to stripped threads or leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T23:28:51.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T03:12:24.173" Score="6" ViewCount="44015" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I call for AC on the dash the clutch on the compressor doesn't engage. I disconnected the clip that connects the wire to the clutch and checked for voltage and there was none. People say that means I &quot;need a new computer&quot;. But that seems drastic. And expensive. Is there some fuse that can be blown? Some broken relay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T20:36:31.527" Title="1998 Dodge Ram AC clutch won't engage" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6990" CreationDate="2013-08-31T04:44:55.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely check the fuses before replacing anything else.  Your interior fuses should be on the drivers side as pictured below in a video from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1997_Dodge_Ram_2500_5.9L_V8_Standard_Cab_Pickup/fuse_interior/replace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carcarekiosk.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZNPr.png&quot; alt=&quot;1998 Dodge Ram Interior Fuse Location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video shows a page in the owner's manual that indicates that a fuse connects to the &quot;A/C Controller&quot; titled &quot;MIRR HTD&quot;.  It is a 10 Amp fuse.  Here is an image from the same video.  (The panel is being held sideways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tbnre.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuse panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fuse is under the hood on the drivers side titled &quot;A/C Clutch&quot;.  The picture below is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/2jt4d-brake-lites-will-not-work-not-figure.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;justanswer.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Look at the lower left corner of the image.  It's labeled &quot;J&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oljOE.png&quot; alt=&quot;hood fuses&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the only two fuses that I could find.  You should check them both and any others that might be related, such as the blower fuse, just in case before you move on to more expensive repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T17:08:09.963" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T17:08:09.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T13:01:36.833" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to confirm whether shifting the vehicle to Neutral while at high speed in order to stop the vehicle is bad or not in terms of fuel efficiency. I had a word with some of my collegues and they were saying that, shifting to neutral is just like you are holding the clutch of the vehicle. So, is that true or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3625" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T13:01:36.833" Title="Is there any disadvantage of shifting to Neutral at high speed?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|car|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-08-31T15:24:38.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7110" CreationDate="2013-09-01T03:48:50.433" Score="3" ViewCount="2566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my xt250 as my first bike after getting my permit about a month ago. It's 2013. At 100 miles I dropped the oil and changed the filter. As a small woman I've also installed lower links to drop the height a bit and raised the front forks a bit. It now has about 224 miles and I've started noticing a clicking or ticking sound coming from just under the gas tank. I notice it mostly when at about 1/4 open throttle. It doesn't do it when I'm going at a steady speed at about 1/2 to 3/4 open throttle. I also notice it when going too slow wen at too high a gear and the bike vibrates like it wants to die. I can't do any one thing to reproduce the noise but it happens all the time at varying speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this could be or what I should check? &#xA;Also: when I hug the bike with my thighs I notice I can feel the difference in vibration when it makes the noise, so I know its more than just plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T06:09:26.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T06:09:26.470" Title="2013 Yamaha XT250 engine clicking/ticking noise" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-01T22:26:33.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have googled all teams, but do not understand well from the result&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger Followers? (I see many website talk about rocker arms, but what is finger follower? Are they for different types of engine configuration?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lash Caps &amp;amp; Lash Disks?? (Are they put between the valve and rocker arm, but why are caps and disks? And how to hold them in place?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat Inserts?? (I have no clue at all. I know what is seat for valve. Is &quot;seat inserts&quot; something between valve and seat?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures, websites and any sources are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2980" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T12:46:34.707" Title="What are the functions of Finger Follower, Lash Caps &amp; Lash Disks and Seat Inserts?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-01T23:00:39.253" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went on vacation for a week. The car was working fine before I left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came back and there is no power. Can't turn on headlights or unlock/lock with remote, and the car gives a clicking sound when starting. Tried booster cables and also wall charger for battery, and the wall charger says the battery is 80%+ charged. &#xA;I didn't leave the headlights or interior lights on either so somehow it magically got disconnected or blew a fuse it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;car: 2006 Mustang GT Convertible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T22:31:02.103" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T22:31:02.103" Title="2006 Mustang GT: Left car for 1 week, no power when returning" Tags="|ford|battery|power|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6996" CreationDate="2013-09-01T23:13:53.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is the battery?  If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement.  5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime.  At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T23:13:53.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-02T11:40:28.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6496/car-average-mpg-display-correctness&quot;&gt;Car average mpg display correctness&lt;/a&gt; I suppose, but say if a piggy back chip (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dieselandpetroltuning.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dieselandpetroltuning.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;) was added to a diesel car with trip computer, would the trip computer take into account the extra fuel injected via the remap/chip, or would the increase in fuel consumption be ignored and make the trip computer less accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sites selling chips such as these claim &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Improved MPG for high mileage drivers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but to test these claims, would you have to measure the relative consumption manually rather than use the relative values reported by the trip computer before and after fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:52:26.070" Title="Trip computer reported MPG with engine remap or chip" Tags="|fuel-consumption|fuel-injection|computer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-02T11:46:50.390" Score="0" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're driving downhill would it be more economical to put the car in neutral and coast, or leave the car in gear and let the wheels drive the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please ignore any safety concerns for this question, and assume the car is a modern, fuel injected vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my view coasting would mean fuel is needed to keep the engine idling, whereas leaving it in gear would mean the engine is mostly prevented by stalling via momentum rather than fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T12:26:50.137" Title="Fuel consumption: Coasting vs in gear without thrust" Tags="|fuel-consumption|driving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-02T20:26:46.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6999" CreationDate="2013-09-02T12:26:50.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct - in a modern fuel-injected vehicle, the ECU will cut the fuel right back (or even off completely) if you are coasting downhill in gear, wheras more fuel is needed to maintain an idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T12:26:50.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6995" CreationDate="2013-09-02T12:46:34.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A valve seat insert is a separate valve seat inserted into the cylinder head, rather than machining the seat directly into the aluminium of the head - this allows the seat itself to be hardened (or made of a harder material), and so to be more hardwearing and last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'lash cap' and 'lash disc' are new terms to me, but appear to be US terms for different types of valve shim - these are used to adjust the clearances of the valves so that they open by the right amount. Discs are flat shims, and caps are top-hat shims used in certain types of engine to reduce weight. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_shim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;wikipedia&quot;&gt;(wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/vvt_5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; and the wikipedia article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_valve_lift&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Variable Valve Lift&lt;/a&gt; Suggest that finger followers are used in Toyota engines to adjust the valve lift by changing the ratio between the cam lobes and the valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T12:46:34.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7009" CreationDate="2013-09-02T16:18:34.030" Score="5" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle in question is a 1997 F150 with a broken ignition switch. Inserting the key and turning it just spins. &quot;Fortunately&quot;, the switch was left in the &quot;on&quot; position; the steering wheel is not locked and when the battery is connected, all the instrument panel lights come on just like they would when turning the key to the &quot;on&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to do is get the engine to turn over and hopefully start so the owner can take it to a professional to have the switch replaced without having to get it towed. I shorted across the starter solenoid and got the starter motor to run, but it's just spinning itself and not engaging the engine. Is there some sort of electronically-actuated clutch between the starter and engine that I also need to power? I could not find any other electrical connectors to the starter motor assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is not new enough to need a key fob to start, bit in any case, the original (mechanical) key is present and in the key slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T16:12:28.943" Title="Manually operating F150 starter motor" Tags="|ford|starting|starter|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6998" CreationDate="2013-09-02T19:33:17.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question. I am making an educated guess here, so don't quote me in court;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because piggyback chips interfere with your car's various inputs I would assume that you are correct and that your MPG score will be inaccurate as a result. I can't say by how much though. These chips usually give an MPG boost of around 10%, so I would imagine your true MPG would be 10% less than your trip computer says it is. Not that it was 100% accurate to begin with. Toyota engines have an AIr/Fuel ratio sensor that is much more accurate than the usual Oxygen sensors found in most other engines, so you're probably coming of an inaccurate base to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it makes you feel any better, my Opel reports my fuel consumption to be 10% less than it actually is, so if I were in your shoes, it'd probably improve the accuracy;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T08:21:07.170" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T08:21:07.170" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5737" CreationDate="2013-09-03T03:34:23.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After digging around I read somewhere to try another brand of oil filter.  I was using a cheap  one when I noticed the buzz.  Once I used a higher end filter, the noise magically disappeared. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2966" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T03:34:23.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6996" CreationDate="2013-09-03T03:36:15.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turned out it was the battery after all.. the charger I was using gave a false positive for being charged possible because it was connected to a slightly rusted bolt for grounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables I was using were also slightly rusted,  I bought new ones and after fiddling a few times we we able to jumpstart it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T03:36:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-03T08:24:18.803" Score="2" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with the AC  on it runs at 300 rpm and stalls. What could be my problem and is there anyways to adjust the idle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3630" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:44:54.993" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T23:45:57.587" Title="2003 Toyota Camry 300 rpm with AC on" Tags="|ac|idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7007" CreationDate="2013-09-03T13:00:40.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely a stuck A/C VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve).  It's supposed to activate to increase the idle when the A/C compressor starts.  When it fails you'll have crazy low RPM idle when running the A/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the A/C VSV is pretty easy to locate for pulling out and testing.  Factory repair manual will have the test procedure (normally just apply the correct voltage and do a puff test to see if air flows/doesn't flow per specification).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T13:00:40.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7002" CreationDate="2013-09-03T16:12:28.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried again, this time connecting the positive battery lead to the low-amp solenoid input terminal (which was harder to reach -- that's why I didn't try it before) instead of directly to the starter motor, and it started just fine. So presumably the solenoid must be actuating some kind of mechanical linkage between the starter motor and engine rather than just acting as a relay for the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T16:12:28.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6988" CreationDate="2013-09-03T19:44:52.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE &amp;amp; ANSWER&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research, I discovered that any future engine work will not be guaranteed when an over sized plug is installed - compared to having the factory supplied plug correctly installed. (Some dealerships won't even service vehicle engines with over sized plugs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, it is much easier for these threads to fail between oil changes, as they were just jammed in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can cause serious engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also note, that when the stripped threads were originally found, replacing the oil pan was the only highly recommended solution. So if you find yourself in this situation, do not settle for anything else, &lt;strong&gt;as this is what they recommend themselves&lt;/strong&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After pointing all this out and that it might cost them a blown engine if it fails, they happily replaced the oil pan no charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="1831" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T19:50:15.763" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T19:50:15.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-03T23:36:11.250" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have decided it is cheaper to upgrade my paid off car than it is to buy a newer sweeter one. One thing I have craved for a long time is an in dash navigation system. Now I am a professional programmer and a budding hobbyist electrical engineer. I would like to have a in dash nav that I could access either via an api or one that I can write code for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any in dash navs for a 05-kia-spectra-EX that I can do this on for the cheap? I dont want to spend a ton of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize I would like either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After market in-dash nav that is programmable (preferably .NET but any language is fine really)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home built in-dash nav &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3633" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T05:30:21.537" Title="Home built in-dash Navigation system or programmable/open api after market one?" Tags="|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7016" CreationDate="2013-09-04T00:44:37.917" Score="4" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at getting a Ducati Monster that is 400cc and 1996 but has done around 42,000kms. How many kms is to many before you will start to run into problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:06:26.723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:06:26.723" Title="How many kms is too many for a 400cc bike" Tags="|motorcycle|ducati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T02:01:46.747" Score="6" ViewCount="8697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2006 Hyundai Elantra (Automatic) back in early 2011. At the time, I was needed to have a car quick, and it seemed like a good deal, but the longer that I've owned it, the more problems have been popping up. Most of these have been relatively small up until now, but there have been some more prevalent symptoms as of late that are starting to worry me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem I encountered was overflowing the evap canister. At the time, I didn't realize that this was caused by putting extra gas into the tank after the automatic pump shut off, as my previous car did not experience this problem when rounding the purchase to the next 50 cents. This cost frequent stalling when the purge valve opened. Once I figured out what was going on and burned off the extra gas, the car seemed to drive okay. I did not replace the canister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, beginning a few months after, I've had a bunch of tiny problems start popping up. I don't know what is and is not relevant, so I'm just going to list everything that I've observed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, the car doesn't have as much power as it did before. Turning on the AC makes takes an even bigger chunk out of the power, but it seems like to a large extent than other cars I have driven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I take the car above about 55 MPH, the steering wheel and car start to shake left and right. This doesn't seem to be an alignment problem, as the car drives straight as an arrow for a good 5-10 seconds without any outside interaction on a regular road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In addition to the above, when accelerating, sometimes it feels like the bottom of the car is shaking back and forth below me. The best way I can describe this feeling is when you are going up the initial include on a roller-coaster being pulled by the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car tends to idle very high when first turned on. Usually somewhere in the 1500 rpm range. If I let it sit for about 30 seconds or so, it will reduce back down to 900.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car will regularly idle very roughly when stopped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once or twice, electronics in the car have shut off or acted funny. The stereo system cut out with a loud pop, and plugging in a phone occasionally causes the phone to reboot and act like it has lost all charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car sometimes shifts incredibly hard. In addition, sometimes this tugs on the steering wheel while the car is shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional odd sounds from the car, sounds like possibly the frame shifting a bit or something like that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When shifting from park into reverse or drive, especially when on an incline, the car will sometimes make a &lt;strong&gt;clunk&lt;/strong&gt; noise. When on a decent incline, the shifter is physically tough to put into gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More recently, when making slow turns (such as pulling into a parking space), the car will make a loud &lt;strong&gt;clunk&lt;/strong&gt; noise. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this coming from the front passenger side of the car, but I don't know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the engine readings, but didn't notice anything majorly out of the ordinary. Based on what I've already researched, here is what I've found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tranmission fluid may be low / need replaced (last I checked it was okay, but that was a few months ago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine mounts might be going bad and need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission mounts might be going bad and need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CV Joins going bad and need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check and replace shocks / struts, if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General suspension issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know which of these (or anything else) seems most likely, so I can start checking them out and hopefully getting it fixed. I definitely don't want to wait until something really important actually breaks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T18:38:19.890" Title="Host of small performance problems in 2006 Hyundai Elantra" Tags="|engine|transmission|suspension|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2013-09-04T05:21:53.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite the list you have there.  I'm not sure about some of the issues but, maybe this will give you someplace to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the car doesn't have as much power as it did before.&#xA;Turning on the AC makes takes an even bigger chunk out of the power,&#xA;but it seems like to a large extent than other cars I have driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will regularly idle very roughly when stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with the inexpensive things that probably need to be done whether they are the problem or not.  In this case try changing the spark plugs and checking the spark plug wires.  Change the air intake filter.  Also change the pcv valve and the fuel filter.  These are basic maintenance items but, they can have a profound effect on performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take the car above about 55 MPH, the steering wheel and car start&#xA;to shake left and right. This doesn't seem to be an alignment problem,&#xA;as the car drives straight as an arrow for a good 5-10 seconds without&#xA;any outside interaction on a regular road. In addition to the above,&#xA;when accelerating, sometimes it feels like the bottom of the car is&#xA;shaking back and forth below me. The best way I can describe this&#xA;feeling is when you are going up the initial include on a&#xA;roller-coaster being pulled by the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These symptoms could mean that your tires need to be balanced or that a tire or wheel is damaged.  I've had that happen.  Check that the tires aren't badly worn or damaged and then take them to get balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car tends to idle very high when first turned on. Usually&#xA;somewhere in the 1500 rpm range. If I let it sit for about 30 seconds&#xA;or so, it will reduce back down to 900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds normal and shouldn't be anything to cause concern.  &lt;del&gt;Really, you should let the idle even out before driving, just to let it get to operating temperature and get the oil flowing before a load is introduced on the engine.&lt;/del&gt; (I have searched but can't find any references to back this up.  Hopefully someone can confirm that it's not just heresay.) &lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt; - Mac commented below describing the opposite instructions from VW and Audi owner's manuals.  It seems they recommend starting and driving away.  Mac suggested that it is a good idea to take it easy on the engine until it warms up, however.  &lt;em&gt;Thanks, mac.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once or twice, electronics in the car have shut off or acted funny.&#xA;The stereo system cut out with a loud pop, and plugging in a phone&#xA;occasionally causes the phone to reboot and act like it has lost all&#xA;charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could indicate an alternator or battery problem in my experience.  It could also be that a circuit is overloaded although, I would think that would just blow a fuse.  You can have your battery and alternator checked for free at a parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car sometimes shifts incredibly hard. In addition, sometimes this tugs&#xA;on the steering wheel while the car is shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shifting from park into reverse or drive, especially when on an&#xA;incline, the car will sometimes make a clunk noise. When on a decent&#xA;incline, the shifter is physically tough to put into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More&#xA;recently, when making slow turns (such as pulling into a parking&#xA;space), the car will make a loud clunk noise. I think this coming from&#xA;the front passenger side of the car, but I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about this symptom.  Sounds like your transmission might be wearing out in some regard.  It sounds like one wheel gets power before the other one making the steering wheel jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasional odd sounds from the car, sounds like possibly the frame&#xA;shifting a bit or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a combination of unbalanced tires and a wacky transmission all kinds of sounds are possible.  You may find that the sounds disappear after other issues are remedied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:19:11.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7013" CreationDate="2013-09-04T09:27:39.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Ducati Monster 400 owner's manual there are several major things that should be replaced every 20000 kms meaning the bike your looking at should have had these things replaced twice already.  Chances are that if they are selling it they didn't bother with the latest expensive maintenance items.  You'll have to inquire  about those things or they'll be the problems you'll run into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the owners manual it looks like the major problems you'll run into at about 40000 kms if the maintenance isn't up to date are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing Belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve Clearances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch and Brake Control Oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Fork Oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are some of the things that can go wrong.  As long as the bike you're looking to purchase has had these services, and the other more minor services mentioned in the manual, performed in the last few thousand kms then it could reasonably continue to be problem free for quite some time. (intentionally vague)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this information helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictured below are the applicable pages of the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Page 32)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/055QZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ducati Monster 400 Owner&amp;#39;s Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Page 33)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y45sj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ducati Monster 400 Owner&amp;#39;s Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Page 34)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cgbu6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ducati Monster 400 Owner&amp;#39;s Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T09:27:39.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T10:06:23.087" Score="1" ViewCount="2413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a second hand maruti 800(1996 model) car and is in good running condition, but black smoke is coming out from the engine. I took to mechanic and he said that, the black smoke coming out of the engine is due to failure of one cylinder and need to be go for changing cylinder and overhauling the cylinder head.&#xA;Is it black smoke is due to failure of one of engine cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3637" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T09:24:55.037" Title="black smoke from maruti 800 1996 model" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7017" CreationDate="2013-09-04T15:58:42.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your 3-cylinder, ~800cc engine was only running on 2 cylinders, I would not think that anyone would describe it as being in &quot;good running condition&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black smoke from a gasoline engine is generally unburned fuel. This can be due to a variety of causes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe, the problem could possibly be resolved by a simple tune-up (maybe a clogged air filter, bad spark plug, problem with the fuel delivery system, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the smoke is coming from the engine itself, then a tune-up is not sufficient--you likely have a leaking or blown gasket, either exhaust manifold gasket or head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the source of the problem may be deeper still, and it may be possible that cylinder head work is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T19:47:55.957" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T19:47:55.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6990" CreationDate="2013-09-04T16:19:52.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that can keep the compressor from engaging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heater-A/C mode control switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the low pressure cycling clutch switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high pressure cut-off switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compressor clutch relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powertrain Control Module (PCM).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most common problems is a low refrigerant charge, the low pressure switch prevents the AC clutch from engaging when the system is low on refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:19:52.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2013-09-04T18:45:19.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is seriously long. I will try to help with just a few here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Car is hard to shift into gear on inclines. Make sure your engage your parking brake prior to releasing your foot off the brake once you have parked and are ready to turn the car off. This will allow the brake to so the braking and holding job and not the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a vibration at certain speeds, have your wheels and tires balanced and rotated and have them check the alignment and other basics while they are at it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a thorough tune up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T19:46:28.687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T19:46:28.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T19:46:52.180" Score="5" ViewCount="139396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motor-scooters-guide.com/2009-peace-sports-vip-future-champion-49cc-bash-scooter-review.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIP Future Champion&lt;/a&gt;, took it to the shop and had the heads changed because the mechanic said it had bad heads, so 200 dollars later... I went in to pick it up and the mechanic says there is a knock in the lower engine, he starts it up (it starts right up) and lets it run for about 30 seconds, so my friend and I go outside to talk and decide to take it home rather than pay the additional 200 dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We go in to get the scooter and suddenly it won't start. I think the mechanic was shady and did something very simple to keep it from starting. It's hot and I'm tired of walking after spending 1000 bucks on a scooter. Why wouldn't it start and hasn't started since?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic said there was a knock in the lower engine, but he started it right up to show us. It doesn't ignite, but tries to start.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just assumed it might be something simple, because my past experience with shady auto mechanics is like with my &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Taurus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford Taurus&lt;/a&gt; for which the mechanic flipped the fuel pump relay switch in the trunk without my knowledge and acted as if it wouldn't start... Then the next day I went to get my car tired of giving the guy my money and he had a fake mechanics lean drawn up and... Well, long story... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I assumed that since he started it right up and two mins later it didn't after I went outside with my boyfriend and decided I wasn't given him any more money, that maybe there was something simple and stupid like that? Should I have left my scooter in the shop and given him another 200 dollars? The starter works fine and everything else seems to work except it just won't get going or turn all the way over or run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's in my back yard right now. The battery is fully charged, and I tried starting it a couple of minutes ago. I'm sitting outside with my laptop and my scooter. Oh What would be a couple of ways to maybe troubleshoot and figure out the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in that the upper hose that leaves the fuel pump go to the front of the carburetor? And the lower hose to the back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3639" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T16:52:18.397" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T09:42:16.210" Title="Two hoses that run from the carburetor - Is the upper hose cut and zip tied? Is that's the one that brings fuel to the carburetor?" Tags="|maintenance|scooter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6914" CreationDate="2013-09-04T20:28:20.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the parts counter at a Ford Dealer or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford Parts&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamfordparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Team Ford Parts&lt;/a&gt; (if you are in the US).  A couple quick searches at the last two indicate the mirror glass is available by itself.  The parts counter and Ford Parts will be more expensive, but you won't pay shipping at the counter or via Ford Parts if you pick up at a dealer.  If you absolutely do not want to get the wrong part, go to the parts counter at a dealer.  Bribe them with hot doughnuts and you may even get a cash discount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T21:44:57.227" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T21:44:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2013-09-04T20:38:20.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first things to check that come to mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure all the fuses are in place.  He could have pulled one or more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check that the spark plug wires are connected tightly to the spark plugs and distributor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the electrical connections on the ignition coil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the electrical connections for the fuel pump and fuel injection if it is injected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure that if there is a valve for the fuel tank that it is on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many things he could have done to affect it but, the things I listed could have been undone quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images that might help with identifying where everything should connect.  I snipped them from a manual for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/pdf/GY6Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;QMB139 (GY6)&lt;/a&gt; that is referenced in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/37/rory-alsop&quot;&gt;Rory Alsop's&lt;/a&gt; answer to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6138/scooter-wont-start&quot;&gt;&quot;Scooter Won't Start&quot;&lt;/a&gt; on this site.  If your engine looks like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCKJz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engine photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Then the following diagrams should apply to your scooter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I have highlighted in yellow the fuel/air connection from the carburetor to the engine, outlined in blue the air supply from the intake to the carburetor, outlined in red the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G849S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engine diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I have highlighted in yellow the fuel shut-off valve for the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZ4YQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shut-off Valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another view with more parts labeled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/776EH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engine diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a helpful trouble-shooting guide that might help get your scooter running again.  I highlighted the starting point in yellow because it wasn't immediately clear to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asQqh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trouble-shooting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air/fuel connection from the carburetor to the engine was loose it might cause non-starting issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T04:53:23.207" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7026" CreationDate="2013-09-04T20:53:47.020" Score="4" ViewCount="105251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get a 2006 Cobalt back on the road.  It's presenting the symptoms of run down battery (Dim lights, time on the radio is reset to 12:00, won't start).  The battery is original, so it's probably time for a new one anyway.  The battery is not in the engine bay, though it looks like there are terminals to attach jumper cables to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T22:29:06.830" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T12:35:21.197" Title="Where is the battery located on a Chevrolet Cobalt and how do you change it?" Tags="|battery|cobalt|delta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2013-09-04T20:56:11.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo has a similar setup in the engine compartment.  It's battery is in the trunk.  Try checking where the spare tire would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some helpful advice on changing the Cobalt's battery at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/maintenance/17425-how-change-battery-your-cobalt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yourcobalt.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, as we all know the battery for the Cobalt is located in the truck&#xA;  of the car. Its about a 20 minute deal to replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...they continue on with step by step instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T21:01:42.750" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T21:01:42.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7024" CreationDate="2013-09-04T21:03:59.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is in the trunk next to the spare tire under the carpet. You will need a 10mm socket for the bolts on the terminals and a 13mm socket for the bolt on the strap that holds it in place. A socket extension or deep well sockets would be handy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift up the carpet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the hydrogen vent tube from the left side of the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the 10mm bolt on the negative battery cable and lift the cable out of the way. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently press on the clips on the cover on the positive cable and lift it to expose the bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the 10mm bolt on the positive battery cable and lift the cable out of the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the 13mm bolt on the strap and lift the strap out of the way. Note how the strap attaches to the bolt and the plastic spacer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the battery out of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse the procedure to install a new battery. Note that you will lose your radio presets and possibly any current fault codes. I think the radio is tied to the vehicle VIN, so you should not have to worry about any lock codes or anti-theft procedures there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/maintenance/17425-how-change-battery-your-cobalt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;writeup&lt;/a&gt; with pictures at the yourcobalt.com forums. It says to disconnect the positive terminal first, but I was always taught 'Last on First Off' for the negative cable on batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a nice long socket extension, be careful not to short the terminals with your socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the old battery with a Delco part from a Chevrolet dealer.  If you go aftermarket, check for the presence and location of a hydrogen vent compatible with the vent tube.  The vehicle will run without it, but I don't imagine hydrogen gas building up in the enclosed space of the trunk is a good thing.  Remember, lead acid batteries give off hydrogen gas when charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T21:42:00.263" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T21:42:00.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T21:14:14.090" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 Dodge grand Caravan will run fine for about 2 to 3 weeks, then all of a sudden when I turn it off it doesn't want to start back up: all the lights work just fine and I got full power, but it just won't turn over. If I let it sit for about an hour then it will start and works fine. What could that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 236,000 miles, The motor and transmission have both been rebuilt, Rebuilt motor has about 85,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3640" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T20:28:59.383" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T15:43:32.570" Title="Car doesn't start for 1 hr" Tags="|engine|starting|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:08:31.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same issue three times with two different vehicles. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimjim.com/about.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.shimjim.com&lt;/a&gt; for a temporary fix. It is a rubber wedge that inserts between the window and the inside window trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3642" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T10:17:56.817" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T10:17:56.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7030" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:24:44.023" Score="3" ViewCount="3666" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a button that looks like a demister on the dash beside the VDC button that I have no idea what it does. There is already demister buttons else ware in the car so it must be something different.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICqtH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Random Demister&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T02:59:26.440" Title="What is the button beside the VDC control on a 2001 Subaru Legacy VDC model" Tags="|subaru|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7029" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:59:26.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Subaru Legacy owner's manual indicates that button is your windshield wiper deicer.  Pictured below is part of page 3-38 of the manual.  The manual explains how to use the deicer in this picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VlFsT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Subaru Legacy Owner&amp;#39;s Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T02:59:26.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2013-09-05T14:00:23.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The upper hose that you found cut and zip tied is likely to be a vacuum line, rather than a fuel supply line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/je4lX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scooter carb with vacuum lines illustrated&quot;&gt;&#xA;(image credit www.scootusa.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, the fact that it is cut and plugged should not be causing your failure to start, it is likely an &lt;a href=&quot;http://scootdawg.proboards.com/post/164753/thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;emissions-related feature&lt;/a&gt; that is activated when you get off the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T14:00:23.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7036" CreationDate="2013-09-05T18:51:57.690" Score="6" ViewCount="11830" Body="&lt;p&gt;After changing the air tube in my front tire and reinstalling the wheel on my Suzuki RMZ450, I noticed that the front brake lost a lot of stopping power. What caused this and what do I need to fix to get the full stopping power back? Do I need to bleed the front brake? Please give step by step instructions if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T17:50:01.673" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T17:50:01.673" Title="Weak front brake on dirt bike" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|suzuki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7037" CreationDate="2013-09-05T19:33:56.267" Score="3" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never driven a car in a region where it snows. I am planning on a vacation to states where it snows and would want to be prepared to drive in snow. What necessary steps/precautions can I take. I will be travelling from southern USA to up North the East coast in a F 1/250 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Please look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://travel.stackexchange.com/q/20288/4584&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for even more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:14.687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T15:35:49.900" Title="How to drive a car in snow" Tags="|winter|driving|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-06T14:04:26.480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7033" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:41:19.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommendations given on the travel site hit most of the high points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who grew up in snowy Western New York and had the opportunity to drive all manner of vehicles in the snow, I can say without a doubt that the single best preparation to the vehicle is to fit good snow tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, decrease your speed in snowy/freezing/wet conditions, and increase the distance to the vehicle in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the windshield washer bottle full of good washer fluid. You'll use a lot of it to keep the windshield clear of the salt spray from other vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to have plenty of warm clothes/blankets in the vehicle in case you get stuck or snowed in in a big storm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that if the car gets stuck or buried in deep snow and you are waiting for assistance, you must either keep the area around the exhaust pipe clear, or turn the engine off, otherwise you risk carbon monoxide poisoning. This is a perpetual killer of people who get stuck in blizzards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to your vehicle choice, I actually prefer smaller lighter front-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive vehicles with good snow tires to big heavy pickups or SUVs. A lighter vehicle simply requires less force to accelerate, turn, or bring to a stop than does a heavy truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't generally find all-wheel or 4-wheel drive to be necessary, unless you will be in deep or un-plowed snow. The important corollary is that 4-wheel or all-wheel drive alone is not sufficient! Neither will help you stop in the snow. Proper tires, driving technique, and common sense are paramount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must make the trip in a pickup truck, be aware that pickup trucks need extra weight over the rear axle to improve traction in the snow. We used to build a wooden frame out of 2x12s that enclosed the area between the wheel wells to hold sandbags (similar to what is shown below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/msoJC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sandbag frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra weight improves traction, and the sand in the bags can be poured out on the snow or ice as a traction enhancer to help you get un-stuck if you really find yourself in a bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T20:54:26.993" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:54:26.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6998" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:52:26.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like @mac said, it all depends on what the piggyback/chip does. If it modifies the signal to the injectors and the ECU does not see these changes, then your MPG-o-meter will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it is like a &quot;reflash&quot; where the ECU uses new values for it's load vs RPM fuel injection tables, then it should still be as accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:52:26.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7032" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:01:24.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that simply removing and re installing the wheel would cause air to enter the brake system, though I suppose if someone had repeatedly squeezed the brake lever while the wheel was off the bike, that could have run the master cylinder reservoir dry and admitted air. One should never apply the brakes unless brake pads and brake rotor are all present and in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If air was in the brake system, the lever should feel &quot;mushy&quot; compared to before. If it feels mushy, go ahead and bleed the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check to make sure that the pads in their proper position in the caliper, and make good contact with the rotor. It's possible they got knocked around during the wheel change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the pads or rotor have simply become contaminated during the wheel/tire change. If the lever feels firm and you have decreased stopping power, this may be the cause. Try spraying everything with some brake cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to bleed the brakes, you may need two people, though on a motorcycle you can generally do it with only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;locate the bleed nipple on the brake caliper, and ensure that you can loosen it. If it is stuck, hit the threads with penetrating oil and use a flare nut wrench or a six-point socket to break it loose. Gently re-tighten the bleed nipple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;locate the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder, and remove the cover. protect any paint in the area, as brake fluid can quickly damage paint. Also, keep this stuff off your skin. Check that there is some brake fluid left in the reservoir, as the bleed process will consume brake fluid and you must not run the reservoir dry or you will pull more air into the brake system, and this is the very problem we're trying to fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;affix a piece of clear tubing to the bleed nipple, and run the other end of the clear tubing into a small plastic bottle or other suitable container to hold the old brake fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with the bleed nipple closed, squeeze the brake lever (or press the brake pedal). While keeping pressure on the lever (from here out, substitute &quot;pedal&quot; for &quot;lever&quot; if appropriate), loosen the bleed nipple until brake fluid flows into the tubing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the brake lever reaches the end of its travel, hold the brake lever in place while gently tightening the bleed nipple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the bleed nipple closed, release the brake lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that fluid remains in the master cylinder reservoir, and if required, top up with new brake fluid from a new, freshly-opened container of brake fluid. Again, the reservoir must not be allowed to run dry during the bleed process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 4-7 until no air bubbles are visible in the fluid exiting the bleed nipple. Note: if you wish to do a complete brake fluid change (you might as well), continue to bleed until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple is light in color and clear, like the new fluid you're adding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When finished, snug the bleed nipple down, replace the dust cap (if present), top up the master cylinder, and replace the master cylinder cover. Clean up any brake fluid spills quickly with lots of soapy water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test for brake feel before riding/driving the vehicle. The lever should be nice and firm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T15:31:34.767" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:31:34.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7033" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:50:01.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a piece on Being Prepared in the snow on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://infosecfrog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/being-prepared.html&quot;&gt;personal blog&lt;/a&gt; a couple of years back. I didn't think of the Carbon Monoxide problem @mac mentioned, but there are some useful snippets there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this winter in Scotland already a repeat of the freezing conditions of last year we are still astonished at how many people leave themselves at risk by being entirely unprepared. Not only does this cause them problems, but it also causes some impact to those who are prepared. So here are a few notes on how to minimise the impact from adverse weather and foolhardy unprepared individuals on the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the simplest solution is &lt;strong&gt;don't go outdoors&lt;/strong&gt; - get stocks of food and drink in and batten down the hatches. Cosy, but not always a workable solution, so lets have a look at what you can do if you do need to go somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Okay, so I'm is a petrolhead, and so I take any opportunity to go out on a racetrack, but knowing how to handle ice is within anyone's grasp. While the Andros Trophy could be a little excessive, having at least one skid pan session under your belt will get you through a lot of ice. You'll learn how to use the right amount of torque - unlike the many people we have seen over the last couple of weeks trying to drive under full power, wheels spinning and sliding - resulting in some interestingly stuck vehicles! The driving test in Finland requires a test on a slippery course - is it any wonder they do so well in the World Rally Championship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planning the route:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Look at an OS map to understand the hills. Last winter I had a very tense hour driving the last couple of miles to Drumoak in Aberdeenshire as I didn't prepare his route (but trusted a Tom Tom... mistake!) - I ended up descending a very steep slope using the ditch on the right hand side of the road as a runner to stop the car sliding off the left hand side of the road, which had no barrier other than some trees further down the slope. Learnt that lesson now, but wouldn't ever want to go through it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid motorways&lt;/strong&gt; - you would think they would be fine as the inclines are minimal, and they are wide, but unfortunately they are not sheltered, and when conditions deteriorate it is all too easy to be caught out, or get stuck behind someone else who does. When the inevitable crashes happen, you can't get off a motorway easily, and being stationary in heavy snow can lead to being stuck there for many hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Defrost/de-ice your car every day. Not only will this help you avoid having to call out the AA/RAC/equivalent for your country, but you will avoid the doors freezing solid, ice buildup inside (which can easily damage wiring.) In addition you'll find it much easier to keep all your windows and lights clear of snow and ice - this doesn't seem to be understood by many road users. Personally we like to be able to see everything around us, and ensure they can see us - don't want to be anywhere near another car with the windows all frosted up and just a small patch on the windscreen for them to peer out! Minimising risk here is a good thing (tm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of winter you really want to ensure the car is properly serviced. Fresh tyres, new wiper blades, engine oil, antifreeze levels correct. Then take every opportunity to fill up the petrol tank - just in case you need to run the engine for warmth while stuck for days! In the more remote areas you should consider snow tyres, snow socks or even chains - they can make all the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supplies:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Everyone should have a blanket, sleeping bag or slanket in their car anyway. They are so cheap or even free at garages that you might as well. Not just an essential to keep you warm if you do have to overnight in the car, but they are really useful to give you grip if you are really stuck - tucking a blanket or rug under the tyres can give a lot of traction.&#xA;Gloves and Hat - yep, simple, but if you are trying to dig yourself out and the temperature is down below minus 15 you want to conserve heat! Possibly a Cthulhu Balaclava is the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YakTrax Ice Grips&lt;/strong&gt; - get yourself a set of these essential accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snow shovel&lt;/strong&gt; - if you can find one! The telescopic ones can easily be stored in the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drinks&lt;/strong&gt; - would be really nice to have a flask of hot coffee or soup, but realistically you can keep juice or cans in the car really easily. You can dehydrate very quickly when stationary and running the engine to keep the car warm. Keep some bottled water as well, and ideally some coffee powder (see below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food&lt;/strong&gt; - cereal bars or chocolate are easy to store in a car for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The important bit - Geek essentials:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An inverter&lt;/strong&gt; - ideally reasonably high wattage, so you can charge your laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torch&lt;/strong&gt; - ultrabright LED torch, or for extra bling, one of these 10 Million Candlepower torches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High gain antenna (at least 9dB) and 802.11 card if necessary.&lt;/strong&gt; How are you going to update your blog, check out your Stack Exchange posts and twitter feed, follow the Met Office updates detailing the cold and ice coming your way, or keep yourself entertained with iPlayer if you can't connect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Immersion heater&lt;/strong&gt; - either a 12v car version, or a 240v one to run off the inverter - so you can make coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USB Handwarmers&lt;/strong&gt; - keep your typing speed up. Or your strafe speed in Brink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;eBook Reader&lt;/strong&gt; - whichever flavour floats your boat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In car mp3 player&lt;/strong&gt; - you don't want to run out of tunes before help arrives! Ideally at least a half a terabyte of music will avoid any risk of boredom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:50:01.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3021" CreationDate="2013-09-05T23:34:54.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have your system pressures checked, if the high pressure side is way up it could be putting excess load on the compressor, and if so, make sure the condenser fan is blowing fast enough to pull the correct amount of air to prevent the system from getting too hot and creating too much pressure. This just recently happened on my Honda civic, tapped on the fan a few times and it started bowing a lot harder and the pressures came down to normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3645" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T23:34:54.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7032" CreationDate="2013-09-06T00:03:39.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @mac it shouldn't happen after a simple tire change. Have you tried bleeding the brakes? There could be some air in the fluid that is loosing &quot;breaking power&quot; when you apply the brakes. To do this there is usually a nipple on the caliper that you can loosen off slightly then press the break leaver softly and slowly till some fluid comes out. While is it still coming out close off the nipple and it should be fine. After this you should always clean your disk to make sure no fluid got on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T00:03:39.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7007" CreationDate="2013-09-06T00:06:34.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar sounding issue with an old prelude I had. Does the car idle fine if the AC is off? It could be that the AC has seized and is running on the same belt as the engine, so when the AC runs it is causing restriction for the engine belt to run and in turn killing the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T00:06:34.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7047" CreationDate="2013-09-06T00:22:35.383" Score="19" ViewCount="10661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, I was involved in a hobby of building and flying model aircraft. The aircraft used alcohol-fueled 2-stroke engines with glow plug ignitions. When these engines ran rich (and always at idle), they produced a distinctively different sound to when they ran with the throttle mostly or fully opened and the mixture leaned to deliver the highest RPM. That difference in sound was informally described as &quot;four-stroking&quot;. I've heard a similar effect in larger two-stroke engines as well - weed trimmers and motorcyles - so it seems to be a characteristic of two-stroke engines in general, not just the small, model aircraft variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what is going on in these engines when they &quot;four-stroke&quot;? It seems as though combustion is only occurring on every other top-dead/power stroke. Is this true? If so, why? What prevents the charge from igniting on one stroke while allowing it to occur on the next, and repeat the alternating pattern? In the case of the glow plug engine, how is it that the glow plug can fail to ignite a charge on one cycle, and still remain hot enough to fire on the next cycle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:12:04.100" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T01:00:02.370" Title="What is happening when a two-stroke engine is said to be &quot;four-stroking&quot;?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|engine-theory|two-stroke|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7073" CreationDate="2013-09-06T03:19:25.123" Score="5" ViewCount="20205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Honda Civic EX (4 Cyl Automatic, 5-speed transmission, Regular Gasoline). I get it serviced regularly and it has around 28k miles. The engine light has never come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am noticing this summer, in moderate to high humidity weather, 70 - 85 F, in the morning (when the car has been off for at least 12-14 hours), that starting is taking significantly longer than I'm used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started the car from cold on extremely cold winter days this past winter with no noticeable delay in start. But just recently I started to see this, and I'd like to know if it's something I should be concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cold Start (12 hours or more since last run)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the key in, turn it to start, I hear the engine crank a few times, but then for almost a whole second (OK, maybe more like 0.6 seconds on average), there are 0 RPMs and the engine is completely silent. For that split-second, it's like the thing is dead, but then it suddenly comes to life and starts. It doesn't sound like it's starting rough, or making any kind of strange noises; it just &lt;em&gt;sits there&lt;/em&gt; for a significant fraction of a second after it's done cranking but before it starts to run on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's to the point that, if I hold the key down in the &quot;starting&quot; position for the same length of time as I do when I start the car on a &quot;Hot&quot; start (when running the engine very recently), the car won't start. I have to intentionally hold it down until &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the little hang/hitch passes, to get it running first thing in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hot Start (started it within the past hour or two)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the key in, turn it to start, I hear the engine crank &lt;em&gt;fewer&lt;/em&gt; times than on a cold start, and it jumps right to life within maybe 2 seconds max, with no delay. I barely have to hold the key in the starting position at all, it's REALLY fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that's alarming me is that the cold start behavior is a &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; from what it used to do, and this car has been through summer 2011, winter 2011, summer 2012, winter 2012, and now summer 2013. I use the recommended oil (0W-30) and usually get fully synthetic, except that the dealership's first free oil change they gave me a synthetic blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't notice a difference in any other characteristics of the engine. It doesn't run rough; MPG is excellent (just like it was on day 1 out of the dealership, in fact); it handles the load of the A/C quite well. I &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; usually run the car with the A/C or heat on, except for a few weeks in the fall and spring, where it's cool enough that I can turn it off, but not blasted cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I be concerned about this?&lt;/strong&gt; Is this even a problem, or am I just overreacting to a natural side effect of my car having 28k miles on it? This is the first car I've owned since it was new, I'm used to driving old rustbuckets from the 80s and 90s, so I'm not used to seeing a car age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T14:50:37.813" Title="Slower Engine Start When &quot;Cold&quot;" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2013-09-06T03:39:10.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery shouldn't be old enough to need to be replaced.  Maybe something put undue strain on it or it was defective, causing it to wear prematurely.  You could easily test if it is the battery next time you start it cold by hooking it up to another car like you're going to jump start it.  If your battery or charging system is at fault it should start right up when hooked up to an exterior power source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paranoia makes cars last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T03:39:10.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7033" CreationDate="2013-09-06T03:55:56.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install snow tires. If it's 4-wheel drive or front wheel drive, install on all four wheels; if rear-wheel drive, just the driving wheels, although all four would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; get away with summer tires + chains, but they have to be propely fitted and legal for where you intend to use them (check local regulations). If temperatures are no more than a few degrees below freezing, and you don't have to deal with more than a couple of inches of snow, you can get away with &quot;all season&quot; tires (but should be on ALL wheels). Nevertheless, proper snow tires are really the best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn skid recovery. There are places you can go for instruction and practice, but it is possible to teach yourself. Read up on techniques. Only practice in &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt; (large, open, flat, empty of obstacles, people) places (e.g. vacant parking lots) at &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt; speeds (just a few MPH is enough to induce a skid on snow) to get the &quot;feel&quot;. If you're in a safe place and want to experiment, any abrupt or excessive control input (accelerator, steering, brake, or combination at some level) will induce a skid or spin of some form; understanding what inputs will or will not produce what result can be very helpful in knowing what &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to do when you need to keep the car under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See other answers for advice on what to keep in your car (supplies, clothing, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving in slippery conditions, &lt;em&gt;slow down&lt;/em&gt;, leave plenty of extra space in front of you, make any driving inputs (accelerator, brakes, steering) &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt;. Avoid steering and braking simultaneously (unless your car has traction control); either steer (no brakes) or brake (straight line) as appropriate to the circumstance; don't try to do both at the same time; the combined inputs require more traction which you may not have. Best to avoid a skid situation altogether, but still be prepared (know how to recognize and recover). Always try to keep space &lt;em&gt;all around&lt;/em&gt; your vehicle... in a low-traction situation, your car will want to keep going in the same direction,  so it's usually best to attempt to brake straight-line, but there may be situations where the easiest/safest action is a lane change (no brake). Again, read up on winter driving techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastEditorUserId="3646" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T15:35:49.900" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T15:35:49.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:54:17.540" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the recommended way of driving a car in snow in the USA ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lived in Southern USA all my life and have seen very little snow fall(once in a decade). Which doesn't even stick on the road and melts away real fast. From whatever is left, apart from the car slipping a little on the road and the brakes not being as responsive as they are, I don't really remember anything about how it is to drive in snow. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I am making &lt;a href=&quot;https://travel.stackexchange.com/q/20285/4584&quot;&gt;road trip vacation plans&lt;/a&gt; and I want to know how I can stay prepared, as far as travelling by road is concerned, if we travel in months when it snows. If it helps, I will be driving either a Ford F 150 or a F 250 which has regular tires. Do I need to buy chains for my tires ? Can one rent such 'snow-tires' ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" OwnerDisplayName="happybuddha" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:14.687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T04:37:20.990" Title="How to drive a car in snow" Tags="|driving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-06T11:00:05.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7033" CreationDate="2013-09-05T17:51:25.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winter tyres are absolutely necessary&lt;/strong&gt; when the temperatures fall below 4 degrees Celsius, even if there is no snow on the road itself. Cold roads are slippery as well, even with tiny amount of humidity. Summer tyres have significantly worse traction in cold weather, and the car steers like a curling stone -- that is, not at all. Sharp corners and moderate to hard braking are very difficult and outright dangerous. Investment in quality tyres is definitely recommended, but in your case hard to justify. Is there a way to buy second-hand tyres that are still road-legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the car goes, 4x4 or AWD fare noticeably better on snow and icy roads, front-wheel drive is preferred otherwise. Cars with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_stability_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electronic stability control&lt;/a&gt; (often referred to as ESP) are highly recommended. These come as standard on Saab, Volvos often have them as well, which should tell you something why it's so useful. Suffice to say, snow drifting with it on is very difficult, even when trying to do it on purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may even be a government/state/municipal requirement for using winter tyres in particular months. In Sweden, they are mandatory between November and March. Check the rules in the jurisdictions you'll be travelling through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre chains may be recommended, required, or illegal. At any rate, they should be used only if the roads are completely covered with snow. Major roads should be cleared regularly, but small countryside roads may not. Again, check the local laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I drive in Scandinavia in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2155" OwnerDisplayName="mindcorrosive" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T04:37:20.990" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T04:37:20.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7041" CreationDate="2013-09-06T04:36:17.130" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroking&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; describes four-stroking as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four-stroking is an undesirable operating condition of two-stroke&#xA;  engines, where they instead begin to fire every four strokes, rather&#xA;  than every two strokes. This firing is uneven, noisy and may even&#xA;  damage the engine if allowed to continue unabated. Four-stroking was&#xA;  often a cause of poor idling in two stroke engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then describes what's happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two stroke engines rely on effective scavenging in order to operate&#xA;  correctly. This clears out the combustion exhaust gases from the&#xA;  previous cycle and allows refilling with a clean mix of air and fuel.&#xA;  If scavenging falters, the mixture of unburnable exhaust gas with the&#xA;  new mixture may produce an overall charge that fails to ignite&#xA;  correctly. Only when this charge is further diluted, by pumping&#xA;  through a second volume of clean mixture, does it become inflammable&#xA;  again. The engine thus begins to 'fire-and-miss' every second cycle&#xA;  (every four strokes), rather than correctly on every cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes it's true that it is only igniting every other intended power stroke.  In some worse cases an engine can six- or eight-stroke, igniting every third or fourth power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason seems to be that the exhaust isn't purged completely and &lt;del&gt;leans out the mixture on the next stroke and isn't rich enough to ignite&lt;/del&gt; leaves a mixture on the next stroke that cannot be ignited until the following stroke which then produces exhaust that again isn't purged completely.  The more exhaust left in the cylinder, the more skipped strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model engines are affected differently because of their small scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four-stroking is a common and expected behaviour with model engines,&#xA;  both glow fuel and diesel. These small engines run at extremely high&#xA;  rotational speeds and their scavenging relies upon this. When started,&#xA;  they run as inertially-scavenged four strokes and have a distinctive&#xA;  change in engine note when they accelerate past the point at which&#xA;  they begin to operate as two strokes. Owing to the scaling laws of&#xA;  such small engines, this four-stroking is an unavoidable consequence&#xA;  of limitations on their scavenging at slow speeds. However the same&#xA;  scaling laws also make the effects of four-stroking less severe and so&#xA;  the engines can idle happily in this mode, without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that the glow-plug in these engines remains hot enough to ignite the fuel but, every other stroke is just &lt;del&gt;too lean to ignite&lt;/del&gt; not an ignitable mixture.  If it started six- or eight-stroking maybe it would cool too the point where it could no longer ignite the fuel on the strokes with an appropriately combustible mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T17:35:35.090" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T17:35:35.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7033" CreationDate="2013-09-06T11:11:33.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My biggest concern would be the weight of the vehicle and the overconfidence that a 4x4 causes.  It's real easy to overestimate the available traction in a 4x4.  Starting out from a stop seems so easy that it's real easy to forget that normal braking is typically harder than normal acceleration.  You may well be right on the edge on acceleration, and then when you go to stop, you're over the limit of available traction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T11:11:33.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2013-09-06T15:26:15.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;since installing new 02 sensor engine light has not reappeared after clearing w/obd2 device and torque free app.&lt;/em&gt; TOTAL COST= ~$27&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 31 13 ordered Koolertron F-12 ELM 327 OBDII PC Car Diagnostic Scanner &#xA;Electronics EggDeal via amazon $9.50 to use w/android smartphone torque free app to read &amp;amp; clear obd codes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 10 12 friend sprayed hoses he knew to be for emissions in engine w/water from spray bottle while car running and it didn't choke or stall. ws able to get o2 sensor loosened w/ 22 mm wrench. (if can't get off 02 sensor without removing heat shield then nuts on heat sheild need 10mm wrench). friend didn't think we had any vacuum leaks but thinks should replace vacuum gas pod as he heard funny noise in it but we're going to replace 02 sensor first since that's what autozone recommended &amp;amp; since there aren't any vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 11 13 bought new o2 sensor to replace bank1 sensor1 &#xA;NEW PREMIUM HIGH PERFORMANCE O2 OXYGEN SENSOR FORD LINCOLN MERCURY GA24302  ebay 380658246257 $16  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 15 13 rcd o2 sensor &amp;amp; rcd obd2 bluetooth scanner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 18 13 used obd2 scanner w/torque app to clear engine code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 19 13 ws abl to twist off o2 sensor by hand (as it was already loosened w/ 22&quot; wrench when was at friends 8/10).  picked up anti seize lubricant at autozone $1.39 which i applied to threads of sensor (*careful not to get on head of sensor) b4 screwing on by hand then tightning slightly w/wrench&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 6 13 it's been almost 3 weeks and engine light has not reappeared&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:26:15.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7053" CreationDate="2013-09-06T17:50:58.343" Score="6" ViewCount="16962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '03 Chevy Impala, and I wanted to upgrade its OEM radio (head unit) with an aftermarket one.  I just have one concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently realized (after reading the manual!) that the car has a &quot;secret&quot; settings menu.  If the key is at &quot;ON&quot; (or &quot;ACC&quot;), you turn the radio off, and hold down &quot;DISP&quot; for 10 sec, the radio says &quot;settings&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This menu has things like &quot;reset oil life&quot;, whether the doors auto (un-)lock when shifting, whether the lights stay on after leaving the car, etc.  I think it even has a option to sync remotes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it would be possible to access those settings with an aftermarket radio.  My Googling has turned up almost no info.  The best I can find is this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMRC01/Metra-VT-GMRC-01-Factory-Integration-Adapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMRC01/Metra-VT-GMRC-01-Factory-Integration-Adapter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It keeps the chirp sounds, when you open the door, for example.  That's great, but is there an adapter to change my car's &quot;secret&quot; settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T21:34:20.803" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T04:20:36.423" Title="Access car settings with aftermarket radio" Tags="|chevrolet|audio|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7051" CreationDate="2013-09-06T22:51:58.020" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I called a local Chevy dealership's service department out of curiosity.  The technician I spoke to said that there is no way to access the car settings, that are available through the stock stereo, if the unit is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He mentioned the factory integration adapter that you linked to.  He said that it doesn't do anything to access those settings and that he has never seen or heard of a way to retain access to those settings if a new stereo is put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is just one service department's experience but, it sounds like hacking your own solution is going to be your only bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T22:51:58.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7071" CreationDate="2013-09-07T00:04:06.863" Score="4" ViewCount="3836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a neighbor who revs his engine loudly over and over again, for anywhere from 15 or 20 minutes up to several hours at a time, several days a week, and has been doing this for over a year.  It frequently backfires loudly as the engine slows down. It sounds like I live on a racetrack, and it's impossible to concentrate or rest while it's going on.  I've talked with him several times, and told him how disturbing it is, and he says he's tuning the engine.  Is there really a need to do this to tune the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3653" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T00:41:22.400" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T21:16:58.010" Title="Is incessantly revving an engine necessary for tuning?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7054" CreationDate="2013-09-07T00:28:16.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this snippet of information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;megamanual.com&lt;/a&gt;.  It's Greek to me but, it represents a reason someone might rev their engine while tuning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In that case you may be idling almost entirely on the PWM Time&#xA;  Threshold. So rev the engine occasionally as you are tuning the PWM&#xA;  parameters, to ensure that you haven't gone too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: It is likely, depending on where you live, that there are noise ordinances in place that he is exceeding.  I'm sure a friendly visit from the police would make him think twice before he revs up his engine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QM0L9b4Q5s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; showing how to set an engine idle.  They rev it towards the end but not excessively and not many times.  It doesn't require the noise level you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T00:37:30.713" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T00:37:30.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7183" CreationDate="2013-09-07T06:27:12.990" Score="4" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a part time auto mechanic, and for the life of me cannot figure out this problem. No matter how many times I fix it, two weeks later it comes back. I cannot fix the air conditioner. I have installed a new compressor, new orfice tube, new dryer, vacuumed the system and replace the freon. It works for two weeks and then starts blowing warm air. Then, I go back and check the freon pressure and it is good. Next, I vacuum and replace the freon again, and it works for two weeks then starts blowing warm air. After checking the freon pressure again, it is still fine. Please help! Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3655" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:38:48.083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T22:38:48.083" Title="1998 GMC Suburban Air Conditioner" Tags="|ac|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="876" CreationDate="2013-09-07T14:41:54.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot is when the transmission and engine is fully up to temperature. So, 15 minutes of driving or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T21:28:52.883" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:28:52.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7095" CreationDate="2013-09-07T15:55:45.507" Score="3" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am troubleshooting a rear wiper motor problem in a 2003 Ford Focus wagon (LE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I measure the voltage to the contacts (with the wiper switch on), i get intermittent (~4 s) voltage at 200 mV. This indicates to me that the relay is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I plug in the brand new wiper motor it will engage for 2s, and then blow a fuse. I replace the fuse and it does the same thing. The motor says it's a 12V motor on the casing. This indicates to me that it's not receiving enough voltage, which is causing an amperage spike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Why would only 200 mV be being sent back to the wiper motor? Is this typical? Is there a transformer in the actual motor assembly that jumps it up to 12V that is malfunctioning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were the case, however, it wouldn't do so on a brand new wiper motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Scott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T13:49:58.573" Title="Wiper motor voltage troubleshooting" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-07T19:52:36.157" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove without a spark plug wire in my 1978 GMC Sierra 5.7L. It drove fine and I didn't notice any problems until it died after about 2 miles. It was acting as if it was out of fuel or power when it died. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the spark plug and let it sit for an hour or so, then it wouldn't start. I then tried checking the plugs to see if they were firing, but I couldn't see a spark. This was at night so it should have been visible. I checked for mismatched wires and plugs, yet still no sparks. &#xA;Everything is where it should be, but I have no clue what to do....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3654" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T00:29:58.320" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T04:46:13.797" Title="drove without #3 cylinder plug wire. Help!" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7064" CreationDate="2013-09-07T22:18:22.147" Score="3" ViewCount="7268" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle: Saturn VUE 2008, 2WD 4Cylider. Checking light is steady on.&#xA;Read code at auto zone store, POO13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mileage is only 45K. I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3175" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T03:14:10.393" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T04:36:41.090" Title="What does error code: POO13 mean?" Tags="|cel|obd-ii|saturn|p0013|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="939" CreationDate="2013-09-07T22:50:52.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To identify a worn bearing, raise your car, run it, and put a scope etc. on the hub. The weight of the front end will produce different noise, with the car in the air. Jack it up,  Use a screwdriver, and have a friend spin the wheel, while you listen on the hub.  If its bad you'll hear it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3658" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T00:36:41.240" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T00:36:41.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7062" CreationDate="2013-09-08T01:00:36.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actron.com/code_lookup.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;actron.com&lt;/a&gt; that describes OBDII codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hph3a.png&quot; alt=&quot;actron.com codes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Aura-Outlook-2007/Components-Systems/Camshaft-Position-Sensor-Actuator/_/P-0996b43f80cb0fea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autozone&lt;/a&gt; explains what the camshaft position sensor is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camshaft Position Sensor Actuator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator is attached to each camshaft and&#xA;  is hydraulically operated in order to change the angle of the camshaft&#xA;  relative to Crankshaft Position (CKP). The CMP actuator solenoid is&#xA;  controlled by the control module. The control module sends a pulse&#xA;  width modulated 12-volt signal to a CMP actuator solenoid. The&#xA;  solenoid controls the amount of engine oil flow to a CMP actuator. The&#xA;  CMP actuator can change the camshaft angle a maximum of 25 degrees.&#xA;  The control module increases the pulse width to accomplish the desired&#xA;  camshaft operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes into detail on how to remove and reinstall it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal &amp;amp; Installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.4L Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the intake manifold cover.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connector from the exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve, if required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connector from the intake CMP actuator solenoid valve, if required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the exhaust CMP actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, if required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the intake CMP actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, if required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the solenoid valve O-ring seals for damage, replace as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To install:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Installation is the reverse of removal, tighten the bolt to 89 in. lbs. (10 Nm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lubricate the solenoid valve O-ring seals with clean engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T19:58:10.653" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T19:58:10.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-08T04:29:41.873" Score="3" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to connect a video RCA to the BMW iDrive LCD display? I opened it up and saw this 12-pin connector but there's no RCA hookups anywhere. I wanted to connect a rear view camera to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked on eBay and people are selling these BMW Multimedia Video Input kits for like $260-$340 and that's too expensive for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any cable harness that I can buy cheaply that can hook up to the LCD video screen or any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any help. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3659" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T12:37:01.477" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T12:37:01.477" Title="BMW 2008 328i Sedan iDrive GPS Navi LCD display - how to connect video RCA to it" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2013-09-08T14:58:26.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaks can take place from the compressor, condenser, evaporator, hoses and dryer. I got a reconditioned compressor for my Suzuki Swift for $100 and it worked fine for a year before going bust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the hose and the compressor oil seal. Changing an oil seal shouldn't cost more than $80. Easy solution, I refill refrigerant R134a every 4 months for $25. If, however, you are in Chicago or the mid east and have leakage like I do, then changing the compressor, evaporator, dryer, condenser, labor and refrigerant will set you back by $3000. It's EXPENSIVE. But in most hot regions of the US, it's the single most important equipment for survival, ahead of the power steering, auto transmission, power this and that. A car AC is not a luxury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3661" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T08:38:56.740" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T08:38:56.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2013-09-08T18:53:48.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming your system is R-134a rather than R-12 if someone offered to refill it for $85. In this case, you can pick up a can of R-134a at discount stores for $10 or sometimes even $8 and do it yourself. Since the system has a leak, try one of the ones with leak sealant added. This is not a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; fix, but since getting AC components repaired/replaced is prohibitively expensive, it's probably your only good chance for getting working, affordable AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if the system actually is R-12, you can get cheap R-12 from Hong Kong on eBay. Downside is that shipping is usually by sea and takes several months. Otherwise it's basically impossible to get the stuff in the US and most developed countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T18:53:48.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7069" CreationDate="2013-09-08T20:56:12.717" Score="3" ViewCount="5448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla and last night while driving on the freeway, every time I pressed the gas pedal, the car would make a very noticeable sound.  I pulled over and, as soon as I did, steam started coming from under the hood.  After opening the hood it appeared the steam was coming from the radiator cap. Unfortunately I forgot to check the temperature gauge on my dashboard.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the car towed and, after inspecting it today, there appears to be a white residue around the radiator cap and on the radiator.  I checked my oil, which was about halfway between the full and low mark, and it appeared to be clean.  My coolant is also halfway between full and low, but I am not sure what it was before this happened.  I did not notice this earlier, but my car looks like it is leaking some sort of fluid onto the street, possibly before this all happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably end up taking it to a mechanic, but I was wondering if you could shed some light on what it could possibly be so I am not going in uninformed.  If you need any more info, please let me know and I will try to deliver.  Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here is a pic of my radiator cap.  I am assuming this is a problem.  Note, the metal part in my hand simply came of like this, I didn't force it off or anything.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHxGP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;radiator cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3663" LastEditorUserId="3663" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T04:52:18.470" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T18:31:29.027" Title="Steam coming from radiator, odd noise while accelerating" Tags="|radiator|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7068" CreationDate="2013-09-09T05:07:31.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely replace your radiator cap.  When mine gave me trouble it wasn't closing when it should which made fluid steam out which made the car overheat.  If you're lucky it's all that's wrong and you can refill your radiator and move on.  Mine didn't give me any more trouble after I replaced the radiator cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can guess that I also recommend changing your oil and filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T05:07:31.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2013-09-09T08:09:25.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem with my 2006 1.8 petrol s40. Immobilizer stuck on, &quot;immobilizer, see manual&quot; error message. I checked all fuses, wiring etc, lock unlock 5 times myth and disconnected my battery for half an hour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on the verge of calling an auto electrician out when I stumbled upon a post that advised me to turn the key all the way to the firing up position and hold it there, then tap the key with the end of a screwdriver, on the third tap my car started. The problem is a loose connection in the starter switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3664" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T11:50:15.160" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T11:50:15.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7054" CreationDate="2013-09-09T13:14:59.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, some aspects of car tuning to require the revving and letting it drop many times in order to get it just right.  If one is fighting a bad part and is doing diagnosis, it can potentially take hours.  Then, repeat in a couple days with the new parts until it's fixed.  That's a rare circumstance though.  Typically it only takes a couple sessions to take care of issues and get it tuned (with periodic testing when the weather changes).  I'd say it's most likely that he has no idea what he's doing and/or just likes to hear his car rev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:14:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7079" CreationDate="2013-09-09T15:27:49.957" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;The touring pilot 2013 can provide 650 watts, and has a 115V outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can it handle a good 2-3 hours of djing or would it kill the battery? &#xA;All together the dj gear may consume up to 150 watts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T09:31:58.880" Title="Can I plug dj gear to Pilot 2013?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2013-09-09T16:28:59.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.  My Eclipse (most likely due to the a difference in the replacement fuel pressure regulator that was installed after the original one failed) isn't able to hold fuel pressure in the rail when off for more than a few hours.  So, those &quot;cold&quot; starts all take more cranking and it usually has the same half second pause in the cranking too.  Presumably it's happening because there's nothing firing yet to assist, the battery is starting to drop off, the starter is starting to warm up, and it's hitting a high compression point all at the same time.  After the pause it cranks some more and eventually gets enough fuel to fire and runs fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T16:28:59.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-09T16:59:50.790" Score="2" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a charger pack applied to the wrong terminals cause damage to a starter motor on a car. This was done resulting in a loud bang, flash and smoke inside the vehicle. What other damage could have been caused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3667" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T13:34:26.093" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T15:39:36.940" Title="Can an improper jump start cause damage to the starter motor?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7074" CreationDate="2013-09-09T17:37:58.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose it could damage the starter, but it's more likely that you're going to have issues with all the onboard electronics.  Modern cars are full of mini computer systems that don't like improper voltage.  With smoke coming out, something has certainly blown up, and the car needs a thorough going over by someone that's an automotive electrical expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T17:37:58.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T01:30:42.960" Score="7" ViewCount="87051" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic has recommended that I fix an oil leak in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is old and really, I rarely drive it so I'm reluctant to spend any money on fixing it unless it's going to cost more later on or if it's going to be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the oil leak, the mechanic says that the oil leak is leaking out the engine and onto the exhaust and could potentially start a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering, is this a real possibility or is the mechanic just being a little alarmist to try to get me to pay a little bit more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a possibility, is it one of those things where I'll be driving down the road and all of a sudden, my bonnet will be on fire or is it more likely to smoke first and i would have time to get out of the car first etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1418" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-05-02T14:48:45.860" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T14:48:45.860" Title="Can a oil leak covering my engine cause a fire or smoke?" Tags="|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2013-09-10T01:47:20.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is entirely possible.  Here is one of many videos on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewx2vX2l_As&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewx2vX2l_As&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nx46T.png&quot; alt=&quot;car on fire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict how much time or warning you will have before a car fire can occur.  If you don't have the money to fix it now you should at least make certain that oil isn't allowed to drip directly onto the exhaust.  I know the video may seem like the extreme possibility but, that is what you should keep in mind when dealing with flammable fluids and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://voices.yahoo.com/main-concern-vehicle-oil-leaks-2568779.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adam Wallace at voices.yahoo.com&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If oil leaks on your exhaust, it can be dangerous. The buildup of oil&#xA;  on your exhaust can potentially cause a fire. A car fire is something&#xA;  that nobody wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.croberts.com/oil.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charles C. Roberts, Jr., Ph.D., P.E. at croberts.com&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Volkswagen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Burn patterns indicate that the cap was not on the oil filler neck at&#xA;  the time of the fire. Crankcase pressure expelled oil out of the&#xA;  filler neck onto hot exhaust components, causing the fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unnamed Vehichle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...caught fire shortly after leaving a service station, after an oil&#xA;  change. Engine oil had been blown out of the oil filler neck onto hot&#xA;  engine components, causing the fire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pick-up Truck and Transmission Oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...A fire developed under the transmission boot area while the vehicle&#xA;  was towing a heavy load, which was within the capability of the&#xA;  vehicle. Figure 5 is a view under the vehicle with an arrow pointing&#xA;  to a transmission oil cooler tube fitting that apparently leaked&#xA;  transmission fluid, which then sprayed all over the undercarriage of&#xA;  the vehicle. The transmission oil sprayed onto the exhaust pipe,&#xA;  causing a fire in the vicinity of the transmission oil leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=19522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Evelrod at eng-tips.com&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the leak is big enough it can burn that sucker to the ground! &#xA;  (Been there , done that. 350 Chevy C-250,  summer ,1981)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/Notes_From_The_Road/If_Your_Car_Catches_Fire.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Debbie Murphy/autoMedia.com on mobiloil.com&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...check for oil leaks and always use a funnel when adding oil. Oil&#xA;  spilled on a hot exhaust manifold can cause a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have a&#xA;  gas station attendant add oil, double check that the cap is on&#xA;  securely. This sounds obvious, but better to check than end up with&#xA;  oil all over your engine compartment at best, or an engine fire at&#xA;  worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdNyH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Burning car&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px9pM25O-nY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px9pM25O-nY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja8lj.png&quot; alt=&quot;video of car fire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flash point of Mobile 1 10w30 motor oil is 232 Deg. C. according to its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_10W-30.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;data sheet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust gas temperatures can range widely depending on the car.  An average I've found mentioned is 149 Deg. C. at idle to 760 Deg. C. at high load and rare extremes of 1200 Deg. C.  Below is a quote by &quot;the solitaire&quot;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportscarforums.com/f13/what-exhaust-pipe-temperatures-11247.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sportscarforums.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EGT (exhaust gas temperature) can easily range between 300 degrees F&#xA;  at idle and 1400 degrees F at high load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 232 Deg. flash point of motor oil easily falls within the range of exhaust gas temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="3576" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T05:30:16.127" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T05:30:16.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7072" CreationDate="2013-09-10T09:31:58.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it - Car betteries are designed for short bursts of high current (i.e. starting the engine), not prolonged discharge of that sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a car to power equipment, it is generally better to have a second 'leisure' battery fitted, with a split-charging system. Leisure batteries are designed for that kind of usage, and you have the added advantage that, if you leave it on for too long and run the battery right down, you can still start the car on the main battery!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such systems are a common fitment to 4x4s for camping use, so a decent 4x4 supplier in your area should be able to advise you and provide the required equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T09:31:58.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2013-09-10T11:52:30.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, an oil leak in a hot area is a car fire waiting to happen.  Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Fiero#Engine_fire_reputation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Fiero#Engine_fire_reputation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;...oil to escape and come into contact with engine parts. The oil would catch fire when it contacted the exhaust manifold or hot exhaust components...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T11:52:30.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T13:53:29.860" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two cars, one as a road vehicle and another as spares. They're both Mitsubishi Triton MJ. My road vehicle is a '93 model and the spare is a '94 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether it's possible to switch the transmissions between vehicles because one is a cable clutch and the other is a hydraulic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3669" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T10:48:38.877" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:48:38.877" Title="Gearbox Swap '93 model mitsubishi triton MJ" Tags="|manual-transmission|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7085" CreationDate="2013-09-10T15:18:10.947" Score="10" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's clear to me that car parts are cheaper when purchased online rather than through the mechanic. I've been buying tires and brake pads online for years with few problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the wheel bearings on my 2009 Toyota Prius need replaced. I want to buy the replacements online and have the local Toyota dealership install them. I already checked with them to see if they would, and they will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Buying tires and brakepads are easy, but how can I ensure that I'm getting the right parts to fit my car? I'm not looking for a subjective answer like the best brand or the best wheel bearing alloys; all I want to know is: how I can be sure the parts are compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I read the owners manual? Should I check what's already on my car? Is there some database I should use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please answer my specific question as well as provide general guidance for buying compatible parts for cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastEditorUserId="14287" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T11:47:27.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T14:49:15.310" Title="Buying Car Parts Online" Tags="|wheels|parts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7084" CreationDate="2013-09-10T16:03:16.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest thing to do is to phone the dealership, ask them to give you the part number for the wheel bearing, and then do a google search for that part number, or go to your favourite online shop and enter the part number into the search box. Part numbers are unique to a particular car or range of cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T16:03:16.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T20:12:21.363" Score="1" ViewCount="4870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2002 Buick LeSabre and was told the float is not working so I have no idea how much gas I actually have. It often dings to say it’s low, but upon filling it I often need less than $20. Is this an expensive fix? Also, when putting fuel in, am I to assume that it is stopping at the correct time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3671" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T01:17:54.127" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T05:22:41.127" Title="Faulty Fuel Gauge" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2013-09-10T23:53:09.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a kit that contains a new sending unit, float and seal.  It retails for 239.20 according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2003/BUICK/LESABRE/LIMITED/?siteid=214858&amp;amp;vehicleid=1410354&amp;amp;section=ELECTRICAL&amp;amp;group=CHASSIS%20ELECTRICAL&amp;amp;subgroup=SENDERS&amp;amp;component=FUEL%20GAUGE%20SENDING%20UNIT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gmpartsdirect.com&lt;/a&gt;, they will sell it to you for $124.38.  There should be an access panel in the trunk under the mat, so dropping the tank should not be necessary.  Expect a shop to bill retail for the part plus an hour of labor.  You can probably do this yourself if you take the proper precautions and have good instructions. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21149&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on buickforums.com that links to three videos that document the procedure on a Pontiac Bonneville (same platform as the LeSabre, so it should be applicable). The first video contains a dealer price quote of $597 for the sending unit and describes an alternative part number with a price of $40 that can be scavenged to repair a sending unit. Disclaimer: You need to be careful when working on the fuel system. Ventilation are spark prevention are key. Spark resistant (brass) tools would be ideal. A fire extinguisher of the appropriate type is probably prudent, also. There is a post in the thread at the bottom that lists the expected resistance values for various tank levels. It might be worth probing the wiring with a multimeter to confirm the unit is bad before going through the trouble of removing it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump shut off should be reasonably accurate most of the time, but you really ought to keep track of how many miles since the last fill with the trip odometer and make sure it makes sense.  They do occasionally shut off early.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T05:22:41.127" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T05:22:41.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2013-09-11T00:01:33.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you perform the repairs yourself the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C9QVZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fuel level sensor&lt;/a&gt; seems to cost about &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C9QVZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$100&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C9QVZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYxH7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel Level Sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the sending unit goes bad the fuel gauge will usually not move at all.  It does sound like it could be an issue with the fuel level sensor in your car.  Perhaps the float just needs to be adjusted.  Maybe someone bent it out of shape when performing a repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instructions on replacing the fuel level sensor check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://arrc.ebscohost.com/articles/159e7160-9adf-012a-07d2-fffcbdb9beea.pdf?car_uuid=1379796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;information at arrc.ebscohost.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T00:01:33.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7051" CreationDate="2013-09-11T00:06:15.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you will find an aftermarket radio with the functionality of the stock unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The functionality you are describing is actually the responsibility of the Body Control Module.  The radio is just communicating with it over a CAN (Controller Area Network) Bus. With the proper aftermarket tools, you could probably rig something up to access/change the settings, but it would be a project.  A sufficiently advanced scan tool might be able to do it, too, but the only one I can think of off the top of my head would be a GM Tech 2.  They're not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably reset the oil life with the gas pedal.  Turn the key to the accessory position and push the gas pedal three times.  The change oil light should blink twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T00:06:15.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2013-09-12T00:26:49.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the Chinese made scooter, my experience was that it needs to run on RON95 or above (Octane rating). Try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3677" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T00:26:49.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-12T05:41:26.233" Score="2" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very top of my steering wheel is rough, where sun has damaged the plastic and eaten through to the cushion layer below.  The common chemicals for automotive &quot;uv protection&quot; all warn against use on steering wheels as it may make them slippery, plus I don't really trust the claims of those vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of a clunky steering wheel cover, how can I keep this damage from spreading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2007 VW Rabbit. It has a hard plastic steering wheel with a cushion feel, of similar look and feel to that of the dashboard.  I don't know what plastic type it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:14:55.997" Title="How to protect the top of a sunlight / UV damaged steering wheel" Tags="|interior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-09-12T08:46:38.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a towel or something over the steering wheel. This has the added benefit of preventing your hands from being fried to a golden brown. Better yet, get a sun visor for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would give silicone spray a try to smooth over the rough patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T09:04:18.780" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T09:04:18.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1809" CreationDate="2013-09-12T08:54:06.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photo you have added is not of chrome rims. Chrome rims are a lot harder and can be cleaned with what you've suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium rims are a lot softer and easily get stains, though they don't get the actual rust (mostly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had similar stains on my Ford and was able to get rid of them after 2-3 iterations of Armour-All Wheel cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think any decent off-the-shelf wheel cleaner should be able to help you. Although I don't believe it will be done in one go; you will need to repeat it a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3681" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T05:45:57.713" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T05:45:57.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7059" CreationDate="2013-09-12T13:49:58.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where exactly are you measuring the voltage and getting 200mV? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're seeing this at the connection for the wiper motor, then I strongly suspect your problem is upstream of the wiper motor. You need to get enough power (volts * amps) to the motor to run the wipers. Even if there were a DC-DC step-up converter in the motor (exceedingly unlikely), you can't create power out of thin air, so that 200mV that you measured would need to be capable of delivering a seriously high amount of current. It just doesn't make sense to design things that way IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T13:49:58.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-12T14:17:06.620" Score="4" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car Info: 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5L with about 140k miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms: On Tuesday of this week the car is in a parking lot, we return to the car, it starts and idles but when the accelerator is pressed the engine does not rev and it does not move. It started raining so I wanted to wait til the next day to tow it. Arrive the next morning, the car starts and runs just fine. Thursday morning, the car battery is dead. Will not start. Have not tried jumping because I am at work, fiancee just called and told me. Will check on it at lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it possible the two issues (battery and throttle) are related in some way or is this just an extremely unlucky week. I would rate my automotive knowledge level at about a 6 out of 10, I can replace stuff like alternator, battery, starter etc, but beyond simple bolt on parts, I get a bit fuzzy. I will likely take it to a shop but I want to be able to go to the shop with at least a few guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3683" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T21:08:10.430" Title="2002 Altima: Battery and Gas Pedal Issues Same Week" Tags="|battery|nissan|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7096" CreationDate="2013-09-12T18:09:31.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I would find out if it is drive by wire (electronic throttle), or cable. Since it's a 2002 I'm going to guess cable. Also, if it were electronic throttle, there are many redundancies and checks in the system and the dash would have the MIL lit. Since that doesn't apply, I'm pretty confident it's a cable throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check under the hood for a loose or detached cable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ZPr1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An intermittent cable issue sounds odd, but it's not out of the realm of possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to make sure the cable is securely attached to the throttle itself (round wheel), and securely mounted to whatever it is supposed to be attached to (the intake, in most cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T18:09:31.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6994" CreationDate="2013-09-12T18:41:26.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike may be substantially different from yours but, mine has a chain that transfers power from the engine to the transmission. It then has the more obvious chain that transfers power from the transmission to the rear wheel. I need to regularly spray both these chains with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jpcycles.com/product/PJ1-06A?utm_source=PLAs&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;device=c&amp;amp;network=g&amp;amp;matchtype=&amp;amp;gclid=CMOViKzAxrkCFRDZQgodrh8Acg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain lube&lt;/a&gt; to keep them working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought the bike it had some links that were fused from neglect and it made a clicking sound.  It clicked when rolling because it was the links on the chain to the rear wheel.  I felt it through the whole bike.  I could see where it was fused by running it on it's center stand and watching the chain.  Whenever it went around the sprockets it would visibly jump a little.  Replacing the chain fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your sound disappears with the clutch applied it could be an issue with the chain that transfers power from the engine to the transmission. Otherwise, it might be a problem in the transmission.  Even if yours doesn't use a chain to drive the transmission, it could still be an issue with that mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a problem with the chains then you can try lubing them to see if that helps before replacing them.  Then make certain you lube the chains all the time, the more often the better, at least weekly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a 1971 Honda CB750K1 so there will be many differences but, motorcycles are generally similar and basically unchanged throughout the decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I don't know if this answers your question but, I couldn't fit this post in the comments)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T18:41:26.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7101" CreationDate="2013-09-12T20:54:42.407" Score="7" ViewCount="10492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know if I can ask this question here but have been trying to find an answer for this one for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take three cars of the same make/model/year. With the precision of microseconds, turn on the blinkers (indicators) of one side. How is it possible that the frequency of blinking is never the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you look at a few cars waiting to make a left turn with their blinkers on. There will be a moment of time when all blinkers will blink together and then fall out of their synchronous-ness. Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T20:48:27.357" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T20:48:27.357" Title="Why do blinkers of two cars never blink synchronously?" Tags="|car|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="334" CreationDate="2013-09-13T02:07:41.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mr. Clean magic eraser and water worked better than anything mentioned above. It takes a while, but there is zero chance of harming the painted surface since it is not an abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed horrendous amounts of paint due to encounters with a short yellow bollard and a white stucco house. The scrapes were so severe that they left scratches on the plastic bumper and cladding. The foreign paint had then baked in the SoCal sun for years before I tried to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbing compound will take off your paint even if done by hand. Chemically, both your car's paint and the foreign paint are the same so a solvent like goo-gone, acetone, etc. will affect and damage both or neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that in any scenario that works, the key part is the mechanical aspect of removal. The eraser is just that mechanical part with no abrasives or solvents to damage the paint. The eraser also removed carpet stains even Folex couldn't touch. Interior scuff marks from boots on light plastic were also instantly removed. I love those erasers and use them until they are completely gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3685" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:59:51.150" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:59:51.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7099" CreationDate="2013-09-13T02:21:41.997" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blinker relay uses a thermal switch which is a piece of curved, spring steel and a thinner piece of spring steel near it that has a wire coiled around it with a resistive property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When current is applied to the relay the coil of wire heats up and expands the small piece of spring steel until it pushes it to make contact with the larger piece of spring steel.  All of the current then travels directly between the two pieces of spring steel.  Since no current is flowing through the coil of wire any more, (electricity always takes the path of less resistance), the small piece of spring steel begins to cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once sufficiently cool, the small piece contracts and pulls away from the larger piece and breaks contact.  Current again begins to flow through the coiled wire and begins the cycle again, causing the light to blink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how precise the relays are manufactured, there are far too many variables for any two relays to blink at the same rate.  The resistance in the wire can be slightly different. The temperature of the relays could be different, perhaps because one car has the A/C on.  Many different materials could be used by different manufacturers.  There are many reasons for slight differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any slight difference between the two relays will end up heating and cooling at different rates.  Meaning they will always blink at a different frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a fairly simple explanation look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Stuff Works&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUhG6.png&quot; alt=&quot;thermal relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WtKIz.png&quot; alt=&quot;thermal relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w0J0F.png&quot; alt=&quot;thermal relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T02:21:41.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7105" CreationDate="2013-09-13T12:34:39.527" Score="2" ViewCount="12171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 2011 lexus ES350, the steering wheel shakes badly when i push the brake. I have been told that its the rotors. I got the rotors resurfaced last week at the lexus service center but no improvement. Plus the brake pedal is now set lower and i have to apply more pressure when braking. Should i just get new rotors? Does this shaking cause problems is other parts of the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T00:26:48.523" Title="Steering wheel shakes when braking at high speeds" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2013-09-13T12:41:18.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine oil starts to evaporate at around 400F (200C). The fumes are then flammable so if the oil is built up on some hot parts of the vehicle it could be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T12:41:18.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2013-09-13T12:49:18.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is completely wrong. The automatic transmission fluid is designed with a special viscosity to ease the changing of gears. This fluid starts to lose its standard properties and should be changed to keep the transmission parts and its performance at its peak. Mixing old and news fluids wont give you the ideal viscosity and the reduces the performance of the transmission system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T12:49:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7102" CreationDate="2013-09-13T14:29:13.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your initial symptoms do indeed point to an issue with the brake rotors, but given that resurfacing did not address the issue, it is possible that you have an issue with uneven tire wear or wheels in need of balancing (that or they did a really lousy job of resurfacing the rotors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the brakes requiring more pedal effort after the service, this may be a temporary condition as the brake pads and rotors once again &quot;bed in&quot; with one another. If it is not a dramatic condition, you may wish to wait and see if it improves. If it is a dramatic condition, get the car looked at again as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your comment that the brake pedal is &quot;set lower&quot;, this is strange to me. Hydraulic disc brakes should be basically self-adjusting, and should always engage in roughly the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This vibration is not likely to cause any issues in other parts of the vehicle, however, a driver of such a vehicle may consciously or sub-consciously make changes to his or her driving behaviors as a result of the vibration, and this may create a dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, if you paid the Lexus service center to address vibration under braking and the problem is not resolved, bring the vehicle back until it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T14:29:13.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7102" CreationDate="2013-09-13T15:36:48.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;resurfacing the rotor does not necessarily eliminate warpage, it only cleans up the surface facing. If the rotors are warped at all they will shake when the pedal is depressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3689" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T15:36:48.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7074" CreationDate="2013-09-13T15:39:36.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it can harm the alternator. By accidently touching positive to negative when appplying the cables you can cause a short in the system and do damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3689" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T15:39:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2013-09-13T18:27:36.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So eventually car started idling really bad and CEL light came up with P0505 - Idle Air Control Malfunction.&#xA;Did some diagnostics myself and took it to the shop. Conclusion was that IAC needs replacement. So I got it done and the adviser said that previous stalling problem was also caused by this. So far so good.&#xA;I will accept my own answer once I confirm through the winter that the problem got resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a second thought, if someone is experiencing the same problem, you can just disconnect IAC wire and see if car will keep stalling. If it's not stalling with IAC disconnected than I would say it's IAC. Can't test it myself until it happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1575" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T18:27:36.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6994" CreationDate="2013-09-14T00:12:19.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took it to a mechanic and he found the problem with a test ride. It is a side effect of the lowering links being installed too low. I am just too dang short for the bike. After I sit on the bike the chain hits the chain roller (which was torn all up) and at a certain vibration you hear it clinking away. I'm re-installing the factor links and hope I don't drop the bike. I've been riding it for a month now and feel a lot more comfortable with it. Tippy toes are what I have to live with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T00:12:19.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7120" CreationDate="2013-09-14T03:27:47.857" Score="2" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attempting to replace the ignition key cylinder.  Attached are the instructions and photo's of the Voyager we're trying to replace the cylinder.   I just don't see any &lt;strong&gt;access&lt;/strong&gt; to the &quot;cylinder release tab&quot; or the &quot;retaining tab&quot; (same thing.) Do you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &quot;looks&quot; like the tab might be accessible from the &quot;TOP&quot; view, but there isn't an access hole, only a detent with no access to the &quot;cylinder release&quot; tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQfrA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cylinder Set&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SacZC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Instructions&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fELlF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfJJn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom View&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBRni.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYUCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Key View&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3424" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-14T21:34:53.930" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:34:53.930" Title="1997 Plymouth Voyager (U.S.) Ignition Cylinder R&amp;R" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2013-09-14T04:39:34.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a gtc turbo and had the same problem. Check all the rear and front boost pressure/solenoids and their connecting rubber hoses and pipes....I spent lots on replacing parts, until I found a perished hose connector on the rear boost solenoid... never had a problem again... in fact I'm pushing 166kw on the wheels with no mods :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3690" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T09:47:58.827" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T09:47:58.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T05:36:13.327" Score="4" ViewCount="2934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I sent my Camry to the workshop as there was a blown water outlet pipe, and was told that the head gasket was damaged too. These were then replaced, and I took delivery of my car. But my problem seem to have increased as now the car/engine vibrates on idle when in neutral, and sometimes the rev goes below 500 rpm (that too while driving) and the engine dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before sending it to the workshop, my car used to accelerate very well and was fun to drive, but now, there are times that there is no proper pickup/acceleration, and sometimes it just gets to normal all by itself. The garage is not able to solve this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3691" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:16:02.650" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T04:08:48.753" Title="Toyota camry 2003 , 2azfe - 2.4 L , vibrates at idling &amp; does not accelerate properly" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|idle|vibration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6778" CreationDate="2013-09-14T09:42:45.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the above and it doesnt hurt to check the spark plugs. Dirty and worn out spark plugs can dramatically decrease the engine performance and it also affects the fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T09:42:45.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7113" CreationDate="2013-09-14T13:13:33.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with a Lexus ES350. Check the spark plugs, fuel filters and air filters . Hope that it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T13:13:33.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T15:49:41.023" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 04 Cavalier. My fan motor stopped working so I changed the motor but the fan sill isn't coming on. I was thinking maybe it's the temp sensor - If so where would it be located, or what else could possibly be the problem? (also when the a/c is on and I stop at a light the a/c stops working)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3695" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T09:45:03.813" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T09:45:03.813" Title="fan motor stopped working" Tags="|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7111" CreationDate="2013-09-14T17:11:20.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get much from the pic but this is what I could figure it out try to remove the cover 1 or 2 in the pic to see if there is the retaining tab &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJfsx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T17:11:20.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T17:59:45.483" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was told during a check-up at a Jiffy Lube oil change that their analysis turned up a failed alternator giving 12.1V. Given that Jiffy Lube doesn't replace parts and thus gains nothing if I do, I would be inclined to agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want a second opinion on this. Is 12.1V for a Toyota Avalon '97 considered failing by spec? What is the spec range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3696" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:46:08.090" Title="Specs for a Toyota Avalon 97 Alternator?" Tags="|toyota|alternator|avalon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7121" CreationDate="2013-09-14T18:54:21.807" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I replaced the passenger side CV axle of my 1994 Camry LE 4 Cyl. The package of the CV axle was saying 'remanufactured'. Should I assume that it was not new?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:26:08.973" Title="What is a re-manufactured CV axle?" Tags="|axle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7111" CreationDate="2013-09-14T20:05:17.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perplexing situation solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown in the photograph with the red circle, the “tamper-proof” lock protector has “tamper-proof” screws - screws without heads or other visible means of support or removal.  I drilled out the visible screw and cut away (with a cut-off saw) the housing hosting the screw closest to the instrument panel.   Once these two scallywags were removed, the “tamper-proof” housing slid right over and off the cylinder exposing the cylinder release (retaining) tab.    Remainder of project accomplished without fanfare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOvuR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scallywag&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOAhD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Culprits_1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJXCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Culprits_2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xw5fE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Finished!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now &quot;one with the mini-van&quot; once again.  &lt;em&gt;Thankfully, the Suburban just keeps on chuggin'!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3424" LastEditorUserId="3424" LastEditDate="2013-09-14T21:10:31.513" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:10:31.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7119" CreationDate="2013-09-14T20:16:53.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They change the boot and make sure joints are within tolerances and maybe remove some rust and maybe spray or rust treat them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not new but recycled and or refurbished to a &quot;new&quot; like state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T20:16:53.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7116" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:14:57.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the original motor was bad it may have blown the fuse, check the owners manual to find the fuse box and to determine which fuse powers the fan. If the fuse checks ok the next likely culprit is the resistor that allows the various fan speeds. I believe it is located behind the glovebox in your Cavalier. The next options would be the switch the wiring and your new motor.  The A/C most likely stops working at a stop because without the fan there is no airflow. While the car is moving enough air passes thru the system to blow cold air thru the vents. Also look for a ground wire you may have missed while reinstalling the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:14:57.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7119" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:26:08.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe remanufactured has a legal definition in most states. It is important that you know the company that rebuilds the part. If possible check their web site or literature for specifics. Most of the large reputable rebuilders will state what they replace, what they inspect and what they reuse. You want to understand what they did so you can compare different vendors. A vendor may change all the wearable parts or just the worn parts. You want to be sure you are getting the best value for the money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:26:08.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7118" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:46:08.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say how they did the test but the test shows a problem. At idle you should see somewhere around 14 volts. There are issues that can cause a good alternator to have a low output such as a slipping belt, questionable grounds, wiring or a bad ECM (engine control module). If you have a dash mounted voltmeter see if you notice any changes in the gauge with engine speeds. You have some options, you can remove the alternator bring it to your local auto parts store that does component testing at no charge. If it is bad you can pick one up and install it. I know Sears used to do charging system checks for free in the hope that you'll buy a battery.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T21:46:08.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:57:53.533" Score="5" ViewCount="14625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this year, I noticed my brakes starting to screech (especially in the morning or when it was cold out). Not the distinctive squeal of finished brake pads, but the more &quot;grinding&quot; screech of smoothed-over pads and rotors. Sure enough, upon inspection it appeared that the rotors were quite shiny and overly smooth, and the pads, while they still had a fair amount of meat left on them, were quite glazed over as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I picked up some new pads, and we made to change them out and get the rotors turned (AKA &quot;lathed&quot;, resurfaced, etc.). But then... well, let's just say &quot;life happened&quot;, and we were unable to complete the entire job on one occasion, and only got the new pads on without having the rotors turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three months later... we are finally in a position to finish the job up. But now the question arises: SHOULD we still get the rotors turned, and use them with the semi-old pads now? I haven't put THAT much mileage on them since changing the pads, mostly just drive around town, I'd say around, oh, 3,000 miles or so. I've got conflicting opinions here on whether or not it'd be a good idea. One family member says it'd be fine. Another looks at me like I'm crazy for even suggesting the notion of having the rotors resurfaced and reunited with even the slightest of used pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't much want to go and pay another $60 for brand new pads again just three months after already doing so, but I don't want to keep putting off the full task either. And yet, I don't want to screw anything up or risk any &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt; possibilities. So I'd really appreciate some professional/experienced insight and advice here! What do folks here in the auto field think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A side-question: Should I take my rear brake drums to be turned without changing the shoes? I've noticed a bit of noise back there too. How often should brake drum shoes be replaced? The last I did them was March 2011, and I don't think the drums were turned at that time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T04:38:25.550" Title="Should I get my brake rotors turned without replacing the recently-replaced brake pads?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T23:29:19.163" Score="1" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had several opinions stating my car needs a cat converter but after failing inspection today, the mechanic said it might need ECT sensor changed. I've read previous posts that cat converters should be covered by manufacturers up to 10years...but Nissan dealership told me it's not covered since the car has 87,000 miles. The job itself is pretty pricey...any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3699" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T13:05:12.453" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:05:12.453" Title="P0420 code for 09 Murano" Tags="|sensor|catalytic-converter|p0420|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-09-15T01:40:21.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are federal safety standards for defrosting,  With that being said if you use your cars defroster, your better off that way. I am against lifting also.  It also could cause snow and ice to become lodged under your wiper arm causing you troubles down the road.  With that being said a fair amount of newer vehicles have heated wiper park areas these days, with that you would be defeating the heated wiper park area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3700" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T17:01:37.297" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T17:01:37.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T02:20:00.777" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel of my 1997 Grand Caravan will not come off. I have tried banging it with a hammer, kicking it while sitting on the concrete, prying it with a pry bar, and loosening the nuts and driving the van back and forth a couple of times while hammering the brakes. Still can't get it to come off! Any suggestions would help. I have a roofing torch attached to propane -- will heating the wheel up help? I don't want to have to tow it anywhere to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3701" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T00:53:53.997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T10:10:53.003" Title="Wheel will not come off, may be bent around hub" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2013-09-15T02:31:47.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The info I have found under the federal emissions warranty says it is covered for 8 years or 80,000 miles. If you have had all the service work done at the dealer I would complain to the dealer, the Nissan area rep. and anyone else who will listen. The next thing I would do is get a second opinion. Find out why it failed so it doesn't happen again. Check with a local custom exhaust shop for an estimate. They can install just the converter for way less than the dealer. Several years ago I had both converters replaced for $325 the dealer estimate was $1200 for the &quot;Y&quot; pipe plus installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T02:31:47.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7129" CreationDate="2013-09-15T03:03:37.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will give you an insane suggestion so it is up to you that you want to try it or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen all the nut's o the tire. Lift your car using a jack, spray some kind of lubricant's to the bolt socket's as to get rid of rust in there and now try to pull tires out, if not work try to hammer it out if this also fails tie a rope to the tire and pull it with other car, don't use bike as it could end up damaging you body haha &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T03:03:37.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T04:55:19.423" Score="2" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I locked the trunk of my Toyota Camry LE 1994 4 Cyl. Now when I insert the key to unlock it, it doesn't rotate. What can I do now? What will be the cost to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The keyhole is horizontal although I think it should stay vertical while locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastEditorUserId="3418" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T20:12:26.517" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T20:19:39.693" Title="Camry LE 1994 trunk lock not working" Tags="|toyota|locks|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7125" CreationDate="2013-09-15T07:47:35.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you even get those clean and shiny rotors resurfaced? its normal for new rotors and pads to make a screeching sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About your question yes im sure resurfaced rotors works fine with old brake pads. Be aware that it might take a little time for the pads to adjust to the new rotors so you may sometimes feel like you need to apply more pressure on the pedal, that is completely normal. I had exactly the same issue with my brakes after getting the rotors resurfaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T07:47:35.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2255" CreationDate="2013-09-15T08:16:54.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, but it needs a lot of work and probably has to be done by a professional. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to get the automatic panel with the LED screen. Then you need to change lots of wirings and stuff. The most difficult part is changing the air outlets. On the manual models the air outlets (the ones you use to let the air from outside in you car) are opened and closed manually by adjusting a button, but when you are changing your aircon panel to automatic those outlets have to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really interested and don't mind going through all these difficult steps, finding the map of the aircon system of 206 is necessary. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T05:04:19.373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:04:19.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7146" CreationDate="2013-09-15T22:56:27.843" Score="4" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;AWD Mercury Mountaineer. 1997&#xA;Automatic transmission.&#xA;8 cylinder 5.0L&#xA;150k miles. fairly good shape. Pretty awesome truck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 1st to 2nd gear, the transmission shifts with a light clunk. Also, at times the transmission shifts late from 1st to 2nd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change the transmission fluid and the transmission filter, thinking this will fix an issue or improve the shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I was advised to not change the transmission fluid or filter because it may disrupt &quot;something&quot; and make the transmission shifting situation worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone heard this before? Doesn't anyone disagree? Agree? Any advice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3703" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T17:35:23.223" Title="AWD truck doesn't shift smoothly. I was advised to not change the transmission fluid" Tags="|ford|transmission|automatic-transmission|awd|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15003" CreationDate="2013-09-16T02:24:06.793" Score="1" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is Camry LE 1994. The motorized antenna doesn't go down all the way when I turn off the engine. How can I replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T17:14:02.070" Title="Camry 1994 antenna doesn't go down all the way" Tags="|toyota|audio|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-16T03:10:18.543" Score="3" ViewCount="3305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Sport Trac and the drivers side tail light went out a few months ago. The bulb was spent and I replaced it. After a couple of weeks it stopped working again, but the bulb is fine. Since then it has been working some days and not others. It worked when for a couple of weeks straight — including passing inspection — then started behaving erratically. I replaced the socket and it the problem persists. I'm guessing it has to be in the wiring. Where/how should I start checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3705" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T20:08:40.303" Title="Tail Light / Turn Signal randomly not working" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7125" CreationDate="2013-09-16T10:01:29.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the discs are fine, why resurface them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally regarded as a bad thing to fit used pads to new/resurfaced discs, regardless of how much use the pads have - this is because the pads bed in to the shape of the disc, which will have slight grooves and ridges (especially at the edges), so you'll end up with a different shape after they've been resurfaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to the drums - don't turn them without changing the shoes. Though I can't say I've ever seen a set of drums that were so badly worn that they needed turning...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T10:01:29.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7129" CreationDate="2013-09-16T10:10:53.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're doing all the right things. Wheels sticking to hubs is caused by corrosion between the two, and is usually worse with alloys as the metals are dissimilar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best technique I have found is to loosen the nuts, then hit the front face of the tyre in a repeated star pattern (i.e. move around the face of the wheel by about 100 degrees each time, so you're constantly hitting in a different place) until you break the seal - this may take some time! Hitting the tyre rather than the wheel avoids the risk of cracking the wheel (alloys can be quite weak to shock impact - steels will be fine), and imparts more of a twist than hitting near the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T10:10:53.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2013-09-16T14:34:03.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is the contact points between the bulb and the bulb holder. Is it corroded? If it is then you will get the symptoms you described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next would be the checking cable and the connections. Is properly connected (No loose parts). It the cable sheet intact over the whole length or will it short now and them (measure with an ohm meter at the moment it does not work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T14:34:03.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-16T15:17:38.870" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Camry L (4 cylinder 5 gear)with about 6k miles on it. Whenever I push the car from 0 to 30 mph and then let go easy on the gas to keep the car at 30-35, then I can feel the car 'jerking' (shifting gears). I had an old chevy malibu (2.2 ltrs) with about 120k on it and it had the exact same 'jerks'. Just that the jerks in the Malibu were way more stronger than what I feel in my Camry. I have never driven a new sedan before so I don't know if this indeed is a transmission issue. None of the sensor lights on the dashboard are on. How could I know for sure that my transmission is alright ? &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken it to the dealership and those fellas say this is normal car function. I just dont know if thats the truth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T14:12:03.010" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:12:03.010" Title="How to identify transmission issues" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7143" CreationDate="2013-09-16T15:39:53.710" Score="2" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Caravan. Very hard to change from park to any other gear.  Selector very loose when pulling down to shift but very hard to get it to stop at a specific gear. Then it is almost impossible to put back into park without a hard jamming.  Is there a bracket maybe that is supposed to hold the selector in place as it seems very loose once it is moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3706" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:47:13.327" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T15:47:13.327" Title="Caravan Automatic Transmission gear selector" Tags="|automatic-transmission|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7142" CreationDate="2013-09-16T17:00:21.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check on the side of the transaxle where the cable attaches to the transmission. It sounds like the bracket, lever, or ball may be loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T17:00:21.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7141" CreationDate="2013-09-16T17:24:34.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends wildy on your definition of &quot;jerks&quot;. Hard jerks can be fluid pressure problems in the shift solenoids that cause rough shifting. Light jerks are pretty normal on torque-converter equipped, or even automated manual vehicles if they shift while you are modulating the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this jerk happen if you keep the throttle steady, or just when you accelerate and let off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T17:24:34.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2013-09-16T17:26:29.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bulb, bulb socket checks out another common area to look is the switch itself--on the column. The contacts can get corroded over time (especially so on old cars where the current for the bulb flows through the switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T17:26:29.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7135" CreationDate="2013-09-16T17:35:23.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard it many times, but never seen any proof. See the question and my answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/5366/1864&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;. I have never read about it in any of the Factory Service Manuals I have been through, so I shelve it up as false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the idea is that new fluid, with all the fresh detergents, shock dirt and debris loose and cause problems. Again, never seen it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T17:35:23.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7137" CreationDate="2013-09-16T20:08:40.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested examine the wiring paying particular attention to the grounds. On a vehicle this old corrosion starts to effect the quality of the chassis connections. They can be difficult to follow and a wiring diagram won't pinpoint where they terminate. If you can determine which wire is the ground you can run a test wire back to the battery negative terminal to see if the lights work better. Then find the grounding point and clean the frame with a wire brush or file and reattach the cable. Hopefully this will clear up the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T20:08:40.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7132" CreationDate="2013-09-16T20:19:39.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To open the trunk with the least amount of damage you need to gain access to the latch. This will require taking out the back seat or if you are lucky just folding it down. Once access to the trunk has been achieved you need to activate the latch. Some vehicles have a marked &quot;Emergency Trunk Release&quot; lever. Lacking that you will have to unbolt the latch from the the body or the trunk lid panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T20:19:39.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7154" CreationDate="2013-09-17T01:02:08.553" Score="5" ViewCount="75774" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dealer has not been good about topping off fluids lately.  I bought some antifreeze (&lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B0089LSFJ0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://amzn.com/B0089LSFJ0&lt;/a&gt;) to get the level to just above minimum, but I'm concerned that I don't know what the dealer has put in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The antifreeze I got is supposed to be correct for my car; is it safe to add it with the existing fluid or should I ask the dealer what kind they've been using before I mix this in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2003 Acura TL type S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3115" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:06:40.160" Title="Mixing antifreeze?" Tags="|coolant|acura|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7149" CreationDate="2013-09-17T11:10:28.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to top it off just once, it's better to get a bottle of distilled water and pour that in. If you're an unlucky person, the two types of antifreeze might coagulate (form a jelly) and mess up your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-freeze is cheap enough for you to flush your coolant system and fill it up with the type you want to put in. I would suggest emptying the radiator, pouring some radiator flush chemicals into the system and follow the directions on the box. When that's done, fill it up with your new anti-freeze and &quot;burp&quot; your car. The directions should also be right on the bottle, but it's basically letting your car idle for 10-20 minutes with the AC set to hot and the radiator cap off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:06:40.160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:06:40.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-17T12:35:29.667" Score="4" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine turn has been &quot;weak&quot; the last week or so. This morning it was kinda cold and it wouldn't turn at all; I'd hear a slight buzzing sound and the dash lights would kind of flicker when the ignition was turned. Without performing any troubleshooting at all I got a jump and the engine turned over without issue. Do you think it's just a bad battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T16:01:28.380" Title="2007 MKZ Engine Won't Turn" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2013-09-17T14:06:50.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is John Gustafson. I agree with using a hub motor. Here is the answer I came up with. It can be found on my webblog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.classic-hybrids.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this I show the process of building a hybrid motorcycle. I hope that by watching the mistakes I've made, you can avoid the cost, delays and headaches and get straight to building the best bike ever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice:&#xA;Start with the lightest motorcycle you can. Weight is EVERYTHING!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have questions, contact me via my blog.&#xA;I'll be happy to share what I've done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3710" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T14:55:45.557" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T14:55:45.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-09-17T15:14:55.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your only solution now is to buy a new one. The damage has been done and as you don't want a cover there isn't much you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For next time try covering with a towel or a sunshade as has already been suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:14:55.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7149" CreationDate="2013-09-17T15:37:53.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know for sure, you can ask the dealer what they use. It would be good to know for the future anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main types of anti freeze, generally they all use ethylene glycol as the coolant base; though they differ in the type of corrosion inhibitors used. &quot;Traditional&quot; coolants (often green or yellow) generally use silicates, while &quot;new style&quot; (generally orange or pink) coolants use organic acids. GM's DexCool is an example of a newer organic acid coolant. These two types shouldn't be mixed if possible, as the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors can be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, checking the color of the existing coolant in the expansion tank &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/1272436&quot;&gt;isn't good enough&lt;/a&gt; to confirm a match against what you bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you merely need to top up the expansion bottle, you may be able to get away with adding only distilled water, which would be compatible with any coolant. Check the coolant concentration with a hydrometer, and if you've got sufficient coolant concentration, you can simply add water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, apparently someone from the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/content/i-have-question-about-antifreeze-many-months-ago-my&quot;&gt;said you can safely mix up to 15%&lt;/a&gt; of the traditional coolant type into an organic acid type coolant without much of an effect on the corrosion inhibitors. I'd still avoid it if possible. I've personally seen brown sludgey coolant resulting from mixing traditional coolant into VW/Audi's organic acid coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T15:42:58.717" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:42:58.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7156" CreationDate="2013-09-17T17:06:53.427" Score="5" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving to work one morning and the car just staled, after waiting hours to be towed by a flatbed truck and sending it to a shop, I received a call that my timing belt broke. Which was not terrifying to hear but that the shop continued to say I needed a new engine and the car dead due to it being an &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Interference engine&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Now I've never heard this before but can this happen to a 1991 Honda Civic Wagon 1.6L 4wd? I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/timing_belts_interference_engines.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; and I don't see my car. I have been calling multiple shops and figuring out if I can still save my baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After 2hrs and a new belt, the car started up as if nothing happened. However let my mistake serve as a reminder for others with interference motors. Just change your belt, I will not make this kind of gamble again. Thanks everyone with the great information!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3513" LastEditorUserId="3513" LastEditDate="2013-09-19T13:25:01.443" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T13:25:01.443" Title="1991 Honda Civic Death by Poor Timing Belt?" Tags="|honda|civic|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7155" CreationDate="2013-09-17T17:29:54.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine#D16A6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D16A6&lt;/a&gt; engine. From searching various forums it &lt;a href=&quot;http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=29008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seems&lt;/a&gt; that is an interference design. However, while valve damage is possible (probable?), it may not be &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=930520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;certain&lt;/a&gt;. There do seem to be reports of timing belt breaks without valve damage. Then again, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;amp;Number=2487386&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reports&lt;/a&gt; of bent valves, too (though that is a later 1.7L version of your engine). A break at idle is probably better than at high RPM, and coasting to a stop with an automatic is probably better than doing so with a manual left in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider having the timing belt changed and checking for valve damage as Larry is suggesting. That seems to be the first step recommended by many on the forums I linked to, also. If there is valve damage, you should run the numbers on a top end repair as Brian Knoblauch is suggesting in his comment. It should be cheaper than a new engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the shop you had it towed to could be suggesting a new engine due to the mileage on your current one, or maybe they are not set up to perform engine repairs themselves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to do a cost / benefit / risk analysis on the options and see what makes sense for your situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T17:19:40.310" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T17:19:40.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-17T22:42:51.340" Score="4" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Ranger that a previous owner modified by adding an offroad kit to it. I don't have a picture of the suspension system at the moment, but this one is pretty close in terms of wheel size and such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnbVW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I need to give it a brake job - at least one of the shoes is completely messed up (I can see the spring poking out of the brake hub), but I'm worried that the offroad kit (which I didn't install and so I can only guess at which one it is) might have some kind of non-standard brake requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this sounds naive, but my question is this: when these offroad kits are added to trucks, is it required to change the brake assembly, or can the stock one be used? (I'm guessing they wouldn't change the brake assembly unless it was necessary for the kit, as the rest of the truck is fairly free of modification). And, if the stock kit is used, do I need any kind of special brake shoes for some reason, or can I replace them with the standard shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T21:08:34.753" Title="Offroad Kit - Are the brakes replaced?" Tags="|ford|brakes|suspension|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7157" CreationDate="2013-09-18T14:56:30.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to give a definitive answer here as to what was done with your truck. However, it is often stated that when larger wheels and tires are fitted to a truck, the brakes should be upgraded. This is due to the larger rotational inertia of the larger wheels and tires, which can make the vehicle significantly harder to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if the brakes were not upgraded by the previous owner, now might be a good time to consider an upgrade yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T14:56:30.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-18T18:45:17.943" Score="3" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 95 Geo Metro Lsi 1.0L had a blown head gasket. I replaced the gasket and drove the car for approximately 120 miles before it started spitting and sputtering. Then it died just before I got home. I pushed the car home and started taking it apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out that the camshaft pin that fits in the cam gear had broken, and the timing jumped like crazy. I checked the bottom end out and everything looks okay. It rolls over easily, and there is no metal in the oil. I ordered a new head and upper engine gasket kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the whole thing back together, and tried to start the engine, but it just turns over -- &quot;does not try to start at all&quot;. I checked the compression and it was 75 psi across the board. After I did the first head gasket, I had 175 psi across all 3 cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I have my timing wrong and if that can cause low compression. I also put some oil in each cylinder and let it sit for 10 minutes, then did another compression test; it jumped up to 100 psi. My pistons don't look cracked and they hold diesel fuel with no leakdown overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing these problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T19:37:45.630" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T14:56:03.087" Title="Low compression and will not ignite after broken camshaft pin and replaced head and gasket" Tags="|engine|compression|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7155" CreationDate="2013-09-18T19:42:00.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, the timing belt slipped (rather than breaking) on my 92 Civic due to a mistake on my part when I was repairing it, and the engine suffered no noticable damage. Before accepting that the engine is ruined, I would spend the money (or do it yourself) to have someone put a new belt on it and realign the timing. Here is my old question and answer related to the topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4470/426&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4470/426&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the problems I experienced after repair, which are mentioned in the comments there, are due to the timing still being off by one notch; once this was fixed, everything was good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure for yours may be different though; you have the freedom to turn the cam and crank independently from the beginning, but might be starting from an interference position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect to spend $200 or so to have someone try this for you, and keep in mind that could be money wasted if it turns out the valves are smashed or other internal engine damage happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T19:42:00.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7157" CreationDate="2013-09-18T21:08:34.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @mac has stated it is impossible to know for sure without some photos. Most aftermarket suppliers want everyone to see you have their product. Aftermarket/performance calipers will usually have the name prominently displayed on them. The rotors may be slotted and or drilled but the same size as the originals. If you remove a front and rear wheel you can measure the rotor diameter and see if it matches the dimensions of a stock rotor. What I have been able to find is that 11 inch front rotors are the stock size, the rear drums are either 10.59inches or 11.73 inches. Along with the inside diameter of the rear drums also measure the shoe width to verify you get the right size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T21:08:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T12:47:02.787" Score="2" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar and it makes a loud grinding sound every time i brake. Sometimes it even rolls backwards when in drive. What could be the problem(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3718" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T15:30:25.393" Title="My car pulls/stalls after i apply brakes and it makes a loud grinding sound" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T12:52:45.853" Score="11" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that an engine always has enough oil to be lubricated properly but burns quite a bit of oil, can it cause any damage in the long-term because it doesn't belong in the combustion chamber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Subaru 2.5 RS. The engine is known to have quite a few issues including failing head gaskets and piston ring lands. The head gaskets on mine were replaced not so long ago. However, I'm burning about 1L of oil every 1,000 kilometers. I'm the type of guy who checks his oil level very often and I don't mind to add oil. Getting those ring lands replaced is not a maintenance I can afford right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the oil filter has a small leak on it, probably because it was over-tightened. However, I don't think that I would lose that much oil because of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm strictly concerned about the motor. I know excessive oil burning can end up in a clogged catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3008" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:16:56.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:16:56.420" Title="2005 Subaru 2.5 RS - Engine-wise, how damaging is burning oil?" Tags="|engine|oil|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7165" CreationDate="2013-09-19T14:29:17.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Burning oil can cause fouled spark plugs, which can eventually lead to misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burning oil could also potentially lead to valve issues if enough oil builds up. I'd imagine exhaust valves would be most susceptible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your owner's manual may list an &quot;acceptable&quot; level of oil consumption, which could help you gauge how bad your condition is relative to what the manufacturer thinks is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T14:29:17.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7164" CreationDate="2013-09-19T14:35:49.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two issues are very unlikely to be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grinding sound under braking, with no squeal when NOT braking, is typically rusty/gouged brake rotors. The fix would be to resurface or replace the brake rotors, and probably the pads while you are at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the car rolling backwards when in drive, I'd assume this only happens when the car is stopped and pointed up hill. If the hill is particularly steep, this may not be indicative of a problem with the car. If this is happening on slight hills, you should have your transmission looked at. You could start by checking the transmission fluid level, which is easy on some cars and difficult on others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T14:35:49.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7161" CreationDate="2013-09-19T14:56:03.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how bad your timing was off you may have bent your valves in the heads causing poor seating and bad compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also maybe your timing is still off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T14:56:03.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7179" CreationDate="2013-09-19T15:41:41.020" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize if this isn't the correct place to post this question, but it's the closest of the SE sites I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to learn to drive a stick shift, but I don't have a car to practice on, nor know someone who has the time to teach me. I also don't want to pay to learn to drive stick shift. So, I'm going to treat it in an academic manner (it's the best thing I can think of). And when the time comes, I'll have to rely on what I've learned in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are articles online and youtube videos, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive. I suppose a related question would also be: What other ways could I learn to drive stick without having a car to practice on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3719" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:26:23.370" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:26:23.370" Title="Resources for learning how to drive stick shift" Tags="|manual-transmission|driving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-04T13:26:43.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T16:35:32.303" Score="2" ViewCount="5161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had brake pads and rotors checked. Mechanic said they were fine. Grinding noise becoming louder. Mechanic said it could be brake dust. Will brake dust continue to get louder? How safe is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3720" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T16:12:03.397" Title="Grinding sound when stopping with 2010 Honda Civic." Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T16:39:24.490" Score="7" ViewCount="26146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put two quarts of oil in my car, then it just started throwing out smoke almost immediately out of exhaust pipe. Drove it home less than a mile, my husband said i put too much oil. So he drained the two quarts out. Now it's throwing out blue smoke, not as bad as it was. Is it okay to drive car and let it just burn the excess off. That's what my husband said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3721" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-19T21:26:20.917" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T21:26:20.917" Title="I put too much oil in my car, the level has been corrected now but it's still smoking" Tags="|ford|oil|taurus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T17:17:05.490" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 Honda VTR250 is loosing power during long rides. The throttle at this time does not pick and it slowly stalls. I tried replacing the plugs but still has not worked. It only solves the problem temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T19:41:28.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:41:28.510" Title="2009 Honda VTR250 motocycle losing power" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|power|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T15:35:35.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7171" CreationDate="2013-09-19T18:29:05.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can cause problems because if the oil is too high, the crankshaft or other parts up higher in the engine can strike the oil, and make it foam. Foamy oil does not properly coat the moving parts in the engine, and will therefore cause quicker wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the smoke is coming from the tail-pipe due to the extra oil, that could be a significant problem. Oil should generally not be introduced in the combustion process in a 4-stroke engine, and definitely not in your car's engine, IIRC. The fact that it is could indicate a larger problem. I don't know offhand if simply over-filling the oil can cause the oil to get into bad places, or if that means a vital seal has broken. Someone else may know more there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2139" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T18:29:05.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7113" CreationDate="2013-09-19T18:54:52.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check would be that the engine and hoses were put back together properly. If the engine loses vacuum, it can cause rough idling. In such a case, though, the car would usually run well at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2139" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T18:54:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7171" CreationDate="2013-09-19T21:25:30.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil is at the correct level now driving the car should be fine. Take it easy on the engine until it stops smoking. The smoke is likely coming from the residue of the excessive oil from the overfill and will burn off over the next little while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T21:25:30.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7320" CreationDate="2013-09-19T22:41:26.160" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new driver and need to change oil. I have following options. Which one should I select?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car:&#xA;Toyota Camry 1994 LE, 4 cyl, 127000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NTB: $19.99&#xA;It includes following services:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Rotation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TPMS Reset where applicable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts and Hoses Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluids Top Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jiffy Lube: $30&#xA;It includes the following services:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake fluid level (in transparent reservoirs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serpentine belts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiper blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Antifreeze/coolant reservoir levels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine air filtration system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exterior lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chassis (lubricate when applicable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission/transaxle fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Differential fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer case fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windshield washer fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery water (excluding sealed batteries)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exterior windows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum interior floors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firestone $21&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAXuC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T14:32:40.407" Title="Oil change: which is the best option?" Tags="|engine|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-07T16:34:17.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2013-09-20T06:48:27.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When wheel base distance is between 3.4m to 4.8m then two piece drive shaft as far as L/D ratio concerns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3728" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T06:48:27.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2013-09-20T07:51:24.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go rent a car and practice. The only thing different is that you need to develop a feel for when the clutch is engaged sufficiently for you to give it gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Academically&quot; speaking, you need to give a little bit of gas, let go of the clutch slowly until the car just starts to move, and then slightly increase the gas while releasing the clutch smoothly. Think about handing a small child a cup of coffee to carry: you only let go completely once you're sure he has a solid grip on it. And you let go slowly, not all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T07:51:24.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7181" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:03:21.177" Score="8" ViewCount="17330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2545/are-there-different-kinds-of-10w-40-oil&quot;&gt;several&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/258/what-differences-between-synthetic-and-dino-oil&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/84/is-it-worth-switching-to-full-synthetic-or-blend-oil-in-my-older-car-truck/136#136&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; on here that answer, &quot;what's different between synthetic oil and regular oil?&quot; or &quot;Can I use X oil in Y car?&quot;, or similar, but nothing that quite answers my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a car with a high revving engine that requires 10w-30 full synthetic oil. My mechanic (who primarily works on racecars) uses Valvoline, but several other people I've talked to swear up and down that if I'm not using Mobile 1 or Royal Purple or insert-your-favorite-brand-here, that my engine isn't going to last as long or perform as well. When I'd ask about the difference though (they're all 10w-30 full synthetic, right?) none of them could give me an answer. I'm aware that certain synthetics might be parafin based which would gunk up the works, but I don't think any of the above examples are actually parafin based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;TL;DR: Is there really a difference between different brands of full-synthetic 10w-30 oil?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2017-10-22T04:24:00.567" Title="Do different brands of the same oil really make a difference?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:59:28.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sam, Chemistry isn't my strong suit, but when it comes to synthetic then no, they &lt;em&gt;are not&lt;/em&gt; created equal. I know you're not looking for a shopping recommendation, and I can't give you one anyway. What I can say is that the additives the manufacturers use are selected for different reasons (high temperature additives for races cars, different additives for older high mileage engines, etc), so knowing that will help you make the right choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From putting 150k of the 200k miles on my current daily driver I'll tell you that initially I used Valvoline high mileage religiously, but when I need oil (slow leak) in a pinch, I'll pull up to the nearest gas station and grab the cheapest 10w-30 they got, and like I said -- I'm somewhere in the vicinity of 200k miles (digital odometer died) and the engine runs smooth if I do say so myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always (usually) followed the advice: &lt;em&gt;keep the oil changed&lt;/em&gt;. You probably know after so long the oil will change it's viscous properties, which can be bad for the engine. The different additives can delay or (as a result of achieving another feature) speed up this breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:59:28.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6873" CreationDate="2013-09-20T14:50:53.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trouble shooting a cranks but won't run condition it comes down to three things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel, Fire, or Mechanical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel - Spray either or starting fluid into the air intake while&#xA;trying to crank the vehicle. You may have fuel pressure but not&#xA;enough, this will rule out a fuel problem. If it runs you have a fuel&#xA;problem if it doesn't you don't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fire - Check to see if you have spark. In your case you do, if it&#xA;will jump the spark plug gap it's generally enough to run the engine.&#xA;You can use a spark tester that tests for adequate spark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical - The engine has a mechanical problem that prevents the&#xA;engine from running. For example a blown head gasket, broken timing&#xA;belt or chain, or it's jumped time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I suspect a mechanical problem. Check the compression, also if you have a lab scope check the waveform on the crank sensor, if not you could try a crank sensor. It takes about an hour and requires removal of the starter to gain access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-20T15:00:02.543" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T15:00:02.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7057" CreationDate="2013-09-20T15:20:41.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a leak in the system. You can't use the pressure to tell if you have the correct amount of Freon. If you were using a recovery machine that weighed the amount of recovered Freon you would see that you are loosing Freon. Not only is Freon leaking out, non condensable gas (ie air) is getting in. This is causing your pressures to look right even though you are low on Freon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-20T17:32:52.720" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T17:32:52.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-21T05:19:18.757" Score="1" ViewCount="5093" Body="&lt;p&gt;This auto has 22k miles and both sensors were changed a year ago about 2k miles with OEM parts. Can anyone tell me how to test these? they have 2 black leads a blue and a white lead. I have voltage to the connector on the black leads. My suspicions are that both of these new sensors can't be bad and my problem is something causing them to throw codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3731" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T13:28:54.790" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:28:54.790" Title="2000 Lexus ES 300 Showing P1135 and P1155 codes" Tags="|lexus|p1135|p1155|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2013-09-21T20:44:22.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem with driving different tyre tread depth. Imagine that you go on slight turning angle. Wheels have different rotation speeds anyway even on high speeds. So differentials do all the job to make drive smooth. There is no big deal driving few milimiters smaller wheel on one side since it is not more than 10mm or something about 1/25 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3733" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T20:44:22.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6351" CreationDate="2013-09-21T22:42:15.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a code generator downloaded from this site and it worked fine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freefordradiocode.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.freefordradiocode.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you got the right model and know the radio serial number (written on the radio when you pull it out. You can buy the keys off ebay for a couple of pounds (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR4.TRC2.A0.Xford+radio+rem&amp;amp;_nkw=ford+radio+removal+tool&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR4.TRC2.A0.Xford+radio+rem&amp;amp;_nkw=ford+radio+removal+tool&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&lt;/a&gt;) its worth a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't work out which number is the code I need to input. Any ideas? See pic&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oeqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T22:03:07.203" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T22:03:07.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7600" CreationDate="2013-09-22T13:26:13.327" Score="5" ViewCount="2067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heve Toyota Land Cruiser 200 (2008 year). After hard braking the passengers seat belt get locked by belt tensioner for some reason (there was no passenger) and I can't get it unlocked. The seat belt is in the lowest possible position so it is impossible to unlock it in ordinary way and I don't want to disassemble it. There is rumors amount TLC owners that you can unlock them by some tricky order of buttons but no one knows exactly.&#xA;Any ideas how to unlock them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T10:25:07.550" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T18:06:54.870" Title="How to unlock seat belts on Toyota Land Cruiser 200" Tags="|toyota|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2013-09-22T17:30:35.733" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;cc&quot; Stands for Cylinder Capacity or Cubic Centimeters. Luckily Cylinder Capacity is measured in Cubic Centimeters, so it's all good. As others have pointed out, bigger cylinders make more power because they can burn more fuel per stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:30:35.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-22T18:12:52.297" Score="2" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't drive the car for three weeks. When I went to open the car to drive to work my keyless entry fob wouldn't work so I used the actual key to open the door. When I tried to start the car of course it wouldn't turn over, no lights or display popped up either. I took the plastic insert &quot;key&quot; out and tried to use my key but that didn't work either and now I can't even get the key out. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3736" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T10:47:19.943" Title="2007 T5 AWD Volvo S40 key won't start the car or unlock the doors" Tags="|starting|volvo|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-23T03:36:44.683" Score="4" ViewCount="3643" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Escape 3.0L V6 149,000 miles 4x4. Three weeks ago a very strong fuel smell coming from rear of vehicle after I park it. Don't smell it anywhere else. Replaced the original fuel cap with after market. Smell stopped for a couple of days, then smell came back. Vapor smell so strong, have to leave overhead garage door open for hours or smell gets into the house. Fuel mileage is still good and idle is still smooth with no loss of power during acceleration. Looking for answers please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T23:37:00.477" Title="2003 Ford Escape..strong fuel smell" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|smell|escape|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7184" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:28:11.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1135&lt;/strong&gt; A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1155&lt;/strong&gt; A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two conditions that set the code: heater current exceeds 8 Amps or below 0.25 Amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by: an open or short in the heater circuit, a bad sensor heater, or the ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensors are grounded individually by the ECM, but are both fed power on the Black wire (Terminal 2 of the sensors) by the A/F Heater Relay (A/F HTR), protected by a fuse and a fuseable link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both codes are present and both sensors have a common power source I'd check there first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:28:11.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:32:37.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T13:32:37.650" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:32:37.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:32:37.650" Score="0" Body="P1135 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 fault" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T15:38:28.727" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:38:28.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:34:27.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T13:34:27.160" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:34:27.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:34:27.160" Score="0" Body="P1155 Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 fault" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T15:39:27.823" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:39:27.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:55:26.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not usually see any drivability issues with this other than the check engine light (CEL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find one or more of the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low engine coolant level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking or stuck open thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continuously running coolant fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty coolant temperature sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty air inlet temperature (IAT) sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify coolant level and strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify proper cooling fan operation (check if it's running more than it should). Replace if necessary. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify proper engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify proper intake air temperature (IAT) sensor operation, replace if necessary. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the above items check out good, replace the thermostat &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Nissan vehicle, check for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs), as the ECM may need to be reprogrammed to correct the P0128 code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ECT sensor and circuit related DTCs: P0115, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0119, P0125&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T22:08:15.430" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T22:08:15.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:55:26.397" Score="0" Body="Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T22:07:29.943" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T22:07:29.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mazda Change over valve (COV) (EVAP system leak detection pump) stuck close&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" Score="0" Body="Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T14:07:00.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T14:10:37.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generic code applying to all makes of vehicles. Refers to Variable Valve Timing (VVT) or Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) components and the car's Powertrain Control Module (PCM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camshaft position (CMP) actuator is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) through a high control circuit and a low reference circuit. The high control circuit carries a 12 volt pulse width modulated (PWM) signal from the PCM to the CMP actuator solenoid in order to control the amount of engine oil flow to the cam phaser. The low reference circuit is used as a return circuit. The PCM has the ability to monitor the functionality of the high control and the low reference circuit. If the PCM detects an open, a short to ground, or a short to voltage, DTC P0013 sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;B&quot; camshaft refers to the exhaust, right, or rear camshaft (looking at the engine from the drivers seat). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DTC set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough running engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Oil Control Valve (OCV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open or short in the OCV / solenoid valve &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged PCM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing this fault will normally require referring to the factory service manual. Specific makes/models will have different procedures to diagnose where and what to test.  You should use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) and measure the resistance of the terminals on the camshaft OCV. Refer to the factory spec on the reading, if it's not good, replace the OCV assembly. Also use the DVOM to verify wiring, connectors, etc., leading from the OCV back to the PCM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other camshaft DTC codes: P0011, P0012, P0020, P0021, P0022&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T22:08:10.883" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T22:08:10.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T14:10:37.183" Score="0" Body="&quot;B&quot; Camshaft Position Actuator (Bank 1)" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T22:08:01.210" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T22:08:01.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:48:36.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This code specifically relates the bank 1 catalyst.&#xA;Related similar fault codes are available for catalytic converter in different locations in the exhaust system. Such as P0430 for the bank two converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet - Catalyst System Low Efficiency Bank 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lexus - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saturn - Catalyst System Low Efficiency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:26:02.573" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:26:02.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:48:36.240" Score="0" Body="An OBDII fault code for Catalyst System Low Efficiency" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-03-12T13:21:45.800" LastActivityDate="2023-03-12T13:21:45.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet - Idle Speed High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mazda - Idle Control System RPM higher than expected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saturn - Idle Speed High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subaru - Idle Control System RPM higher than expected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" Score="0" Body="P0507 Idle Control System RPM higher than expected" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:58:12.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:08:03.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll dump my experience with the &quot;theory&quot; portion below, but the only way to really get the hang of it is to be able to have a car to practice with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned over the course of about 4 Saturdays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Week 1&lt;/strong&gt;) Go to a big, empty &lt;em&gt;flat&lt;/em&gt; parking lot. Malls late at night work great. Practice letting out the clutch VERY slowly until you can feel the car start to move. Do this for about 30 minutes. You'll stall the car a LOT. It's ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Week 2&lt;/strong&gt;) Begin practice with just the clutch again. It should come back to you quickly. Once you've figured out where the clutch &quot;catches&quot;, bring the gas pedal into the equation. You'll start to depress the gas pedal at about the time that the clutch begins to catch. You don't have to push the gas pedal far, just a be consistent in pressure. For a while, you'll hear the engine revving unnecessarily until you figure out how much you need to depress it, and when to begin. Do this about 45 minutes or until you feel you've &quot;got it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Week 3&lt;/strong&gt;) Assuming week 2 has you feeling better about timing, another week of practice pulling out with clutch + gas, only this time in city driving (read: lots of traffic lights.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Week 4&lt;/strong&gt;) The hill. Stopped the car, parked headed uphill. Make sure there's no cars anywhere else on the hill, and it'll take a lot of pressure off. Practice pulling out going uphill. It's a lot harder, because the amount of gas you'll provide is increased. Believe it or not, you'll probably end up giving WAY TOO MUCH gas than stalling it... Oh, and you don't drift backwards anywhere near as quickly as you'd expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note... all clutches catch at different places, and have differences in how &quot;soft&quot; they are. They also tend to change over time, so for even more experience, try someone else's clutch after you've mastered yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T16:08:03.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:08:07.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling System Performance.  Common on certain Volkswagon models, but can occur on other makes.  This DTC can occur before the temperature gauge or warning light shows the engine is overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T11:12:54.130" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T11:12:54.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:08:07.500" Score="0" Body="P2181 Diagnostic Test Code (DTC): Cooling System Performance. Also include any other DTC tags and vehicle make and model tags." OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T11:13:00.513" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T11:13:00.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7419" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:25:04.250" Score="2" ViewCount="3023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the course of the last year, I've been hearing clicking becoming louder and louder from the underside of our Grand Cherokee. I replaced the foremost U-joint a year and a half ago, and have since tugged at all four joins (4WD) to make sure that none of them have any play. I'm out of ideas on what this could be, and I'm not even sure how to go about troubleshooting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clues that might help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the clicking only occurs when the car is in motion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the frequency of clicking increases with speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the noise has increased in volume over the past 6 months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the noise happens immediately after the car starts to move, even if the car was just started.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; like the clicking is coming from somewhere near the front of the car, either directly under the gear shifter (which is where the transfer box is) or in the engine compartment (I know, this isn't much help, but it might provide some incite.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any other detail you'd like to try to get info about, don't be shy. I'm also curious if there's anything in the wheels that I should be looking at...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:52:00.810" Title="Clicking when 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in motion" Tags="|noise|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7211" CreationDate="2013-09-23T20:04:29.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that many times a U-joint in the early stages of failure will still pass the hand powered tug and twist test. It may be one or several damaged rollers that cause the clicking. The only sure method is to disconnect the suspect shaft and pivot the joint by hand to feel for any binding. You can try to isolate which joint is bad by driving slowly and have a second person outside the vehicle locate the area of the noise. As @Larry has asked turn the wheels left and right if possible drive over a small obstacle like a block of wood. The idea is to stress the joint in more than one direction. If it has a CV jointed axle you may not be able to manually feel any play even when the joint is really bad. The typical first symptom is a clicking during hard low speed turns like entering or exiting a parking space. It will get gradually worsen until it clicks constantly while in motion and worse during acceleration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T20:18:37.673" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T20:18:37.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7216" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:54:14.697" Score="4" ViewCount="3980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing some pulsating while braking in my 99 Ford Escort. After removing the wheel and inspecting the discs they both look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzSVo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;warped rotor?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the lateral lines something that could cause the pulsation I am experiencing? Do these need to be replaced or just resurfaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T15:51:45.670" Title="Is this a &quot;warped&quot; rotor?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7217" CreationDate="2013-09-24T00:05:06.013" Score="2" ViewCount="5712" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a button next to the stick shift labelled &lt;strong&gt;Sport&lt;/strong&gt;. It feels like it just re-maps the throttle so the pedal is more sensitive, but does it really change anything about the performance, suspension, or steering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastEditorUserId="3620" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T00:18:51.020" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T01:20:52.763" Title="What (if anything) does the Sport button on a Mini Cooper do?" Tags="|performance|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7261" CreationDate="2013-09-24T00:09:38.690" Score="4" ViewCount="3549" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (Mini Cooper S) has a service light and tire pressure light on, so I was expecting my new OBD reader to tell me what they were about, but it just says &quot;0 confirmed emissions-related DTCs received&quot;, and no error messages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the sensor (in this case the ELM327) only have access to &quot;check engine&quot; messages or is there a way to read other diagnostic codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Diagnostics are also said to be stored in the key fob itself. I wonder if those are readable by any OBD-II device, or if that is an unrelated protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastEditorUserId="3620" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T16:33:28.167" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:37:32.887" Title="Can an ELM327 OBD-II reader report on anything other than engine trouble codes for a Mini Cooper?" Tags="|cel|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7213" CreationDate="2013-09-24T01:02:48.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very difficult to say if a rotor is warped by visual inspection. The tolerences involved are very small in the .004&quot; range. That is about the thickness of 3 or 4 human hairs. My recent experience (if you are doing your own repairs) is to replace rather than resurface. The thickness of used and resurfaced rotors may exceed the minimum allowed thickness, however they seem prone to quickly warping after being reinstalled. When you take the cost of having the rotors machined versus the cost of new ones it often isn't cost effective to reuse them. There are of course exceptions on vehicles with very expensive rotors but the average front wheel drive hubless rotor is pretty inexpensive.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T01:02:48.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7214" CreationDate="2013-09-24T01:20:52.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Mini forums you'll get sharper throttle response. The throttle will seem to be respond quicker both opening and closing. The power steering effort will increase and on some models you get that racy exhaust noise while deaccellerating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T01:20:52.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7191" CreationDate="2013-09-24T10:47:19.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a flat battery - use either a charger or a jump-start from another car (there are plenty of questions on here and guides elsewhere as to how to jump start) to charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T10:47:19.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7221" CreationDate="2013-09-24T20:50:39.777" Score="3" ViewCount="1501" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2013 Honda Accord has both 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder cars, however, only the 4 cylinder cars have a continuously variable transmission (CVT). I was wondering...  is there any particular reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T22:31:13.530" Title="CVT on 6 cylinder cars" Tags="|engine|honda|transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2013-09-24T22:40:46.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no fundamental reason you can't have a CVT with a 6-cylinder engine. The simplest explanations I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The market for CVT is people who want modern efficient vehicles, the opposite demographic of people who want 6- and 8-cylinder engines, and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The CVT helps deliver the right amount of torque at a wide range of speeds, reducing the need for an over-powered engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T22:40:46.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7213" CreationDate="2013-09-25T00:42:15.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best bet replace you don't need to do a brake job twice. For about $60 for the both rotors and $18 for the pads you will come out ahead. Just make sure you break in the new pads. Don't use excessive braking or hard braking the first 200 miles and you should get at least 50000 miles of trouble free braking unless the calipers mess up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3744" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T00:42:15.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2013-09-25T01:32:33.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess the latch to open the trunk would be either in the center consol or in the glove box. The reason I guess this because this car model can be convertible, normally in this case the latch to open the trunk is located somewhere you can lock it. The reason for this is to protect the content of the trunk. So if you center consol can be locked check in there or in the glove box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : from this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mini2.com/forum/second-generation-mini-cooper-s/141423-how-open-trunk.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; it look like you need to unlock all the door from the button to unlock the trunk at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T01:38:41.970" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T01:38:41.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-25T10:46:21.230" Score="1" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biting point on my Mazda 2's clutch is very, very short and the car is uncomfortable to drive. Car is still under warranty, but the mechanic advised that it could not be adjusted and all Mazda 2 are like that. Do you guys know anything about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3745" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T19:54:33.397" Title="Can a Hydraulic clutch be adjusted?" Tags="|clutch|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2013-09-25T11:54:14.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some makes can be adjusted through means of an adjusting nut on the master cylinder pushrod.  Not familiar with Mazda though.  Best bet is to grab a factory manual and look for a procedure.  Or if you're not afraid to maybe make the car undriveable, you could stick your head under the dash and start looking at the pushrod.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T11:54:14.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7238" CreationDate="2013-09-25T13:20:21.227" Score="6" ViewCount="9995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a cold air intake kit from Injen (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.injen.com/docs/other/search.asp?stop=1&amp;amp;Year=2005&amp;amp;MakeID=2&amp;amp;ModelID=113&amp;amp;Eng=L4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SP1305P&lt;/a&gt;, seen below) at the recommendation of my mechanic and am planning on installing it in my 2001 Honda S2000. However, it is my daily driver, and I will occasionally need to drive it in the rain. While I would certainly be a responsible driver and avoid big puddles and the like, I'm wondering how likely it is that this intake kit would suck water into the engine if driven in the rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXKqB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Injen cold air intake kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I drive in light rain, but not in heavy rain? Or should I make sure to never drive the car in any level of rain at all under any circumstances after doing the install?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An installed version can be seen below (front of the car is to the right of the picture):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JYya.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Injen cold air intake installed in an otherwise stock S2000&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T16:11:07.960" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T11:54:12.617" Title="Honda S2000 with cold air intake; rain driving" Tags="|honda|air-intake|s2000|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding OEM and aftermarket in-car audio / ICE equipment. " OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T13:38:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7230" CreationDate="2013-09-25T13:47:11.023" Score="2" ViewCount="9758" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Honda Civic 1.6 Aerodeck is getting a little low on coolant, and so needs a top-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - what do I put in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual rather unhelpfully says &quot;use Honda coolant&quot;, but doesn't tell me what that is. Google doesn't either, but tells me that it is either blue or green depending on whether it is &quot;type 1&quot; or &quot;type 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local motor factors says it should be OAT (red - Organic Acid Technology). The coolant currently in there is blue. Is there an easy way to tell if the current coolant is the Honda-branded stuff, or if someone in the past has put MEG (traditional blue coolant - Methanol Ethylene Glycol) in there instead - in which case I don't want to mix it with OAT...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I just flush the lot just to be safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Looking at an old quesiton on here &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1135/is-prestone-all-makes-all-models-coolant-really-compatible-with-all-models?rq=1&quot;&gt;[link]&lt;/a&gt;, I find a link to a US Amazon page suggesting the Honda stuff is MEG - completely at odds with what the shop told me... Can anyone confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T14:05:57.380" Title="What is Honda Coolant?" Tags="|honda|civic|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7229" CreationDate="2013-09-25T14:00:41.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Honda coolant is 50/50 prediluted, non-silicate/non-borate, type 2 ethylene glycol based coolant (I know this because I just snagged a bottle out of my basement and copied that off the back label, shown below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65Ebb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Genuine coolant label&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T14:05:57.380" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T14:05:57.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6920" CreationDate="2013-09-25T15:42:11.280" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are of course correct. Higher altitudes require lower octane. A quick way of getting your car to play nice is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect. this will reset your fuel trims (unfortunately also your radio, clock, etc). It will help with getting your car to play nice with the new grade of fuel and thinner air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T15:42:11.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T09:06:20.817" Score="3" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Wagon R+ from '98 and there are only 2 seat belts on the rear but space enough to accommodate at least 3 (skinny) people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend me any good practice advice on fitting an extra middle belt? What parts would I need to look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3748" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T22:20:10.787" Title="Is is possible to fit an extra seat belt into a 1998 Suzuki Wangon R+?" Tags="|suzuki|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7233" CreationDate="2013-09-26T12:43:29.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat belts are anchored to the frame (not sure if you knew that), so in theory if you could find a lap belt that would be enough size, you would just need to drill two holes in the frame large enough for the seat belt bolts, spaced a decent width apart, and torque the bolts down to the spec of the other seat belt bolts in the rear. Not sure if you could route the belt between the seat cushions or what (I don't have a Suzuki Wagon), you may have to get creative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all a hack of course since the lap belt didn't come by default, but I love hacking cars :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T12:43:29.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-26T13:19:23.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions pertaining to the care, maitenance, or modification of Honda S2000 roadster (1999–2009) should go here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information see the article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S2000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, and the official Honda page (&lt;a href=&quot;http://automobiles.honda.com/certified-used/s2000/2009/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honda.co.jp/S2000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JP&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T15:33:45.800" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T15:33:45.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-26T13:19:23.603" Score="0" Body="A roadster manufactured by Japanese automaker Honda between 1999 and 2009." OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T15:33:36.063" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T15:33:36.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2013-09-26T17:20:44.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda accord 2008, I notice the grinding nose at initial start, after car was sits for a few hours, cold weather or hot, still makes the grinding noise as engine starts up for a couple of seconds but not all the times. I agree with the previous answer of &quot; slow disengagement of the motor starter&quot; I went to few Honda dealers in orange county CA, they all said; haven't heard of this problem before. I was recommended to leave the car for over night for a diagnostic checkup but because of the inconvenience and $100+ charges I haven't done it yet.&#xA;On the issue of oil consuming, it's a recall. I took to the dealer and the problem was fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3750" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T17:20:44.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2013-09-26T17:24:45.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: your car will be more vulnerable to hydrolock.  Don't use full throttle in deep puddles.  In the rain, you should be fine in most situations.  All that said, you'll still be able to ruin your car if you try hard enough.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you submerge a running car in water, it's going to damage the engine, cold-air intake or not.  One of the worst possible scenarios is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrolock&lt;/a&gt;.  From Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hydrolock occurs when a volume of liquid greater than the volume of&#xA;  the cylinder at its minimum (end of the piston's stroke) enters the&#xA;  cylinder. Since most common liquids are incompressible the piston&#xA;  cannot complete its travel; either the engine must stop rotating or a&#xA;  mechanical failure must occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among other things, this can lead to catastrophic damage to engine internals.  For example, here's what a tragically compressed connecting rod looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9GTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Don&amp;#39;t submerge your car in water.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold-air intake does one or both of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It moves the air intake point to one far away from the hot engine bay.  This is often down inside a wheel well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a smooth path for the air to move from the primary opening to the intake manifold with minimal turbulence or loss along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember also that your engine is an air pump.  A normally aspirated engine can create a vacuum at its primary intake point that approaches a negative atmosphere (relative to base atmospheric pressure).  That means that you'll see approximately 15 psi of suction across that air intake's cross section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets more exciting with a forced induction car.  My car can easily generate an additional atmosphere of boost.  That means that my intake is seeing 30+ psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, considering the weight of water is one gram per cubic centimeter, it sure does seem like it wouldn't be hard to slurp up enough water to fill every cylinder simultaneously (my 2000 cc engine would hold about four pounds of water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a reality check: all of the above assumes full throttle and a smooth pipe-based intake that is fully submerged.  What can you do to avoid damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use full throttle in deep puddles.  If the engine is in a vacuum situation (i.e., closer to idle), it won't be sucking so hard on the straw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use a cold-air intake.  &lt;em&gt;I don't but you can if you want.  It's your car.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drive into super deep puddles / ponds / lakes.  &lt;em&gt;Maybe you shouldn't do this regardless.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your splash guard in place.  That should rule out sudden high volume splashes of water right on the intake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try an air bypass valve.  There are a variety of vendors that sell a piece that goes in line with the intake that looks like a foam collar.  It opens up when there's a severe vacuum in the lower intake (i.e., if it's trying to injest a bucket of water).  The result is that the car continues to receive air and not water (until things get deep enough to cover that valve as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the intake that you show in your picture, the air bypass valve would go right in place of the silicone collar that joins the two main sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T17:24:45.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-27T09:44:18.480" Score="1" ViewCount="88257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been studying how to drive manual before I actually practice on a car and I came across a bit of advice from Car Talk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips for Stopping Briefly, Then Starting, on a Hill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're driving a stick shift and need to stop on a steep hill, here's a useful tip for holding the car on a hill without burning up the clutch: Use the parking brake. The parking brake can keep you from drifting backwards when you start up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it works. When you're stopped on a hill with the transmission in neutral, apply the parking brake. When the light turns green, step on the clutch. Put the transmission into first gear. Now, slowly let out the clutch. When the clutch starts to engage, you can release the parking brake. At this point, you'll need to give the engine a little more gas than usual, to avoid rolling backwards. With a little practice, you can accomplish this maneuver without drifting back into the ornery trucker who's right behind your bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not very clear, however, how one gets to a stop and what one does while stopped. This left me with two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From what I have learned, I must first engage the clutch before braking. Then once I'm at a full stop, do I keep both feet on the clutch and one on the brake, or can I release the clutch while keeping my foot on the brake, or can both be released? Does the same apply when I am not on an incline?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At what point do I throw the shifter into neutral? Is as I am braking or after I have stopped?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3719" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:25:40.160" Title="How to avoid damaging clutch while stopping and going uphill" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-07T18:44:13.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7240" CreationDate="2013-09-27T11:49:44.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are full stop engage the parking brake and drop the stick to netural. When you are going to start at green then push gently gas pedal, release slowly the clutch and the parking brake at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to release the parking when the clutch is halfway up. This way the engine is going to keep you in position for moment then you could accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows your legs and you clutch to take some rest while waiting for green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite hard to master bc. you have to coordinate three things at once. For the first few times try give more gas to avoid halting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more detailed answer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Started-on-a-Hill-when-Driving-a-Manual-Transmission-Car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Started-on-a-Hill-when-Driving-a-Manual-Transmission-Car&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T11:49:44.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-27T13:24:38.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi could any one give me some advise on how to get rid of this mark please &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pG4Yh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3752" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T14:32:30.117" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T15:41:50.070" Title="Removing scuff marks from paintwork" Tags="|body-work|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7240" CreationDate="2013-09-27T13:39:24.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From what I have learned, I must first engage the clutch before braking. Then once I'm at a full stop, do I keep both feet on the&#xA;  clutch and one on the brake, or can I release the clutch while keeping&#xA;  my foot on the brake, or can both be released? Does the same apply&#xA;  when I am not on an incline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter; not sure why you'd depress the clutch before braking, but if you're going to be stopped for a while there's no harm in taking it out out of gear and releasing the clutch. Obviously you'll want to have your foot on the brake if you're on a hill so you don't roll backwards (unless you're using the parking brake, but I never do because I'd just forget to take it off again and burn it up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally advocate that people keep their foot on the brake when stopped (hill or no) just in case someone rear ends them (that way they don't go flying into the car infront of them as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At what point do I throw the shifter into neutral? Is as I am braking&#xA;  or after I have stopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, whenever you feel like. I generally leave it in gear and just take my foot off the gas (engine braking) as I roll to a stop (maybe with a tiny bit of normal braking just so my brake lights are on and the guy on his cell phone not paying any attention behind me doesn't hit me). This does two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saves gas (in neutral you're using a bit of gas to keep the engine running, when engine braking the engine is kept running by the forward momentum of the car turning the wheels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensures that if someone cuts you off or does something else stupid, you can get away quicker (you don't have to waste time putting it back into gear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once my RPM starts to get a bit low I'll throw it into neutral and come to a normal full stop (or downshift if I'm in a high gear and still have a lot of stopping distance to go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I think you're overcomplicating things. You can't study this out of a book; in fact, I'd worry that this is going to make it even harder for you to pick up because you've got a bunch of 'do this' and &quot;don't do that&quot; nonsense from the internet to think about which is just going to make things overly confusing. Each person has their own driving style, and that has to come naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T17:04:09.030" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T17:04:09.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7240" CreationDate="2013-09-27T14:31:34.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly a slight bit of terminology to reduce confusion - the normal state of the clutch is engaged (i.e. engine connected to wheels), and you press the pedal to disengage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't disengage the clutch before braking. This allows me to use engine braking to help reduce the speed of the car - Once the speed of the car gets too low for the gear you're in, then you press the clutch. Whether you then change into a lower gear and repeat the process, or just use the brakes to stop is a contentious matter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you come to a halt, put the car in first gear ready to pull away, and keep your foot on the clutch. Reduce the pressure on the brake as the car stops. At this point (preferably just before, but you'll pick that up with experience), evaluate the duration of the stop - if you are just about to go (e.g. pulling out into traffic), stay as you are. If you are likely to be stopped for more than a few seconds (e.g. a red light), apply the parking brake, release the footbrake, and change to neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't hold the footbrake when stationary for more than a few seconds, as your brake lights will dazzle the car behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll agree with Sam's final comment - You can't learn this by theory. Get out and practice, practice, practice. Listen to the engine and feel the car - You'll soon pick up the feel of the clutch and how the engine behaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T16:13:09.357" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T16:13:09.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7242" CreationDate="2013-09-27T15:04:27.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your hands on some good quality rubbing compound and wax (for afterward). You'll want to use the rubbing compound with a cloth to get all the scuff marks off and the wax will make it look good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use Brasso (or whatever the shops in your country sells for polishing up brass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T15:04:27.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-27T16:12:45.130" Score="-2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say there is no such thing as uncontrolled acceleration.  The reason for my comment is that I believe it is possible to shift any transmission to neutral at any speed and then you can bring the vehicle to a stop safely.  Do not turn of the engine as you will lose power steering and control.  A fellow told me that some of the newer transmissions prevented shifting to neutral at speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone told me that some of the new Transmissions do not allow shifting out of gear to Neutral while moving.  I want to know which vehicles have this transmission if in fact this is true.  I personally do not believe this is a fact or possible.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3754" LastEditorUserId="3754" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T23:04:45.743" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T23:04:45.743" Title="Can all transmissions be shifted to neutral at any speed?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-09T15:26:08.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2013-09-27T16:37:17.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out (oops) a detailed answer is in the owner's manual: For the Cooper S and my size, it looks like 36 psi. (Ignore the asterisk -- that was for my old tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07jnu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire pressure&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3620" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T16:37:17.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7247" CreationDate="2013-09-27T16:40:05.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I take issue with the premise of your question a little bit--just because one could hypothetically shift to neutral does not mean &quot;there is no such thing as uncontrolled acceleration.&quot; How often do you think the typical driver of an automatic transmission car selects neutral? I would think that a driver could go years without having the need to shift to neutral. It is reasonable to expect a state of panic to take hold of a driver who is behind the wheel of a car that suddenly appears to accelerate on its own. In such a state of panic, it may be a stretch to expect this driver to think of shifting to neutral to halt the car's acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are potentially a vast number of ways to bring a car that is accelerating on its own under control (use the brakes--they're more powerful than the engine, switch off the ignition, change to neutral, depress the clutch), the problem is thinking logically and reacting quickly enough to prevent a problem when you're suddenly in a panic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, to address your question. If a manual transmission car is accelerating HARD, as might happen if the accelerator was stuck full-on, it may require quite a bit of force to move the gear selector to neutral (unless the clutch was depressed first). When the transmission is loaded, it kind of holds itself in gear. The same may be true for some torque converter automatic transmissions, though I wouldn't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of transmission types in use now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conventional Manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque converter automatic ('contentional' automatic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer-controlled manual transmissions with no clutch pedal (e.g VW/AUDI's DSG, BMW's SMG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continuously variable transmissions (CVTs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might be physically, theoretically possible to shift all of these to neutral at any speed (i don't know that this is the case), modern transmissions have fancy electronic controls, and use a wide variety of levers, knobs, buttons and switches for mode selection. It may be possible that the control software does not allow the driver to select neutral at speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likelier still is that the driver simply wouldn't be able to figure out how to do it quickly enough in an uncontrolled acceleration scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T16:40:05.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7270" CreationDate="2013-09-27T23:29:57.850" Score="3" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2013 Lexus RX450H and when it came time to do the 5,000 mile service, a leak was detected of the oil from the oil pan.  Further investigation revealed that at the factory there is a seal applied to the oil pan and in our car's case, the seal was not completed all the way around the pan.  The repair to this was to instead use a gasket to seal the oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that the original factor seal was defective and that potentially using a gasket instead may provide a seal that is inferior to the normal factor seal were it properly applied.  Is my concern valid?  Does using a gasket to seal the oil pan provide an inferior solution to the factory seal method that is likely to fail sooner?  Should I require Lexus to warrant the gasket to last as long as the original factor seal would last?  Is this a common problem?  Should I be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T19:01:57.063" Title="Oil leak from oil pan in new car, will gasket repair have shorter life than factory seal?" Tags="|oil-leak|oil-pan|warranty|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-28T19:34:34.763" Score="1" ViewCount="5354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having an issue, but I will clarify as to the vehicle in question fist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;97 BMW 318i 4cyl, 140,589 miles auto.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items replaced recently include the thermostat and the water pump less then 500 miles ago. &#xA;So, I'm having some issues with the radiator over flow tank. I ran the car for 30 minutes then when I arrive at my destination (home) the water starts to come up out of the overflow tank quickly. The vehicle during those 30 minutes of driving didn't show any change in temp, stayed steady at half way. What would cause the water to want to come up so quickly if the car never showed signs of heating up, especially with a new pump and thermostat? There is no oil loss or any signs of oil mixing with water at all. Have I been running too much water and the vapor is an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3759" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T12:32:14.093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T12:32:14.093" Title="BMW 318i overflow tank issues" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7254" CreationDate="2013-09-28T21:53:25.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When water comes out of the overflow tank, my first reaction is that you have a head gasket leak. Not all such leaks mix oil and coolant. One failure mode is a one-way leak (due to pressure) leaking exhaust into the coolant; if this happens, the gasses in your cooling system have nowhere to go but out the overflow tank (which is not tightly sealed, unlike the rest of the system). I would recommend a combustion leak testing system like the following to determine if this is your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blockchek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blockchek.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible you have a much simpler problem like a bad radiator cap with a problem in the return pressure valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T21:53:25.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7258" CreationDate="2013-09-28T22:11:34.360" Score="5" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large crack on the left rear corner of my white '05 Prius bumper from when my wife bumped into a another car in a parking lot when the temperature was around 4 below.  I also have a large dent/scrape on the front left bumper from when someone took a corner too sharp pulling into an alley and my car happened to be parked at that corner.  (ugh, Chicago drivers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: Anyway, I'd like advice on whether to fix or replace these bumpers.  I have seen some people say that once you have a crack in the bumper its structural integrity is shot so you should replace it.  Is this true?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: It seems to cost several hundred dollars to replace a bumper at a dealer or a body shop, but I feel like I should be able to do it myself if I could get the right parts.  Is this replacement something I can do at home?  Is there more complexity to replacing a bumper than just removing the old one and installing the new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3: I am also more confident in my ability to remove a bumper and install a new one than I am in my ability to fix a bumper with epoxy or bondo.  I can get cheap, great condition parts from a junk yard.  When selecting a bumper from a junk yard, what should I watch out for?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3760" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T16:01:38.813" Title="3 Questions related to fixing/replacing 2005 Toyota Prius bumpers?" Tags="|toyota|replace|body-work|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2013-09-28T22:51:19.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.10 amps will kill your battery quick like, you should get it down as close to 0.00 amps as possible.  My experience was that to keep the radio stations, etc. it takes about 0.01 amp on the meter.  So yeah, you got something going on...   In my case, it was the key lock light staying on and the door lights (or rather door light relays) staying on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3761" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2013-09-29T21:47:25.997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T21:47:25.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7256" CreationDate="2013-09-28T23:34:05.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most modern vehicles, the part of the bumper you see is just a facade and has no structural purpose. Often as a part it's just called &quot;bumper cover&quot; or similar. So I don't think the cracks should affect safety in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replacing it yourself, the hardest parts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finding all the fasteners to remove the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the new one you buy isn't pre-painted to match your vehicle, painting it. (This is the hardest part of all.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoiding scratching the paint job when fitting the new one in place on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can find a cheap replacement that matches your vehicle's paint color, I would seriously consider the &quot;bondo&quot; method instead of replacement, but with a superior fill product, fiberglass resin. You can find such products in auto parts stores right next to the bondo, but they produce a much more durable repair. Sanding and painting over it is still a pain, but less so than painting a whole bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T16:01:38.813" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T16:01:38.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2013-09-29T00:44:52.047" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it sounds more like your charging system is failing.  I had exact same problem and it turned out to be my alternator had failed.  Some alternators have internal circuitry to charge your battery and sometimes this internal circuitry is external to your alternator.  All the AutoZones near me offer free test to determine if alternator is putting out right voltage to be able to charge battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's plausible but rare something could all of a sudden drain the battery.  Usually when an electronic part fails it fails by opening the circuit; if it failed and shorted you would have blown a fuse or fusable link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have your charging system inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T00:44:52.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7256" CreationDate="2013-09-29T00:46:34.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a bumper repair specialty shop in your area. They can weld the plastic cracks as long as it isn't to badly distorted. The bumper will need to be painted if it repaired or if it is new so that cost won't change. The repair may be less than a replacement part. If you decide to repair it yourself don't forget to disarm the airbag as an accidental discharge will add a big additional cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T00:46:34.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7215" CreationDate="2013-09-30T02:29:56.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW utilizes proprietary tools to access OEM codes. The OBD-II standard only gives you access to the government mandated codes, which would reveal an emission issue. You might have fault codes, but they would only be available to the dealers computer or a knockoff of said computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS Mini and BMW use the same machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T02:29:56.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2013-09-30T02:33:43.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to perform a Parasitic Battery Drain check, as shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Once you find the culprit, isolate and correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T02:33:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-30T08:28:53.803" Score="2" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mixer screws are totally seized on the carbs of my 1994 ducati m600, I have found a good set of carbs from a 1997 m600 but will they fit my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T05:56:21.730" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T05:56:21.730" Title="Swapping the carbs on my ducati m600" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|ducati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7265" CreationDate="2013-09-30T09:13:04.380" Score="3" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is about my Nissan Altima 2.5S. I drive it to work and drive back to home every weekday. My workplace is 10 miles from my home and it's about 20 minutes' ride single trip. Other than that the car is not driven much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the car in February 2010 and my driving pattern has been the same in the past 3.5 years. The battery was all good until last winter when it started to not jumpstart after not being used over the weekend. I took it to Nissan service for checkup and they told me there was nothing wrong with the battery or the alternator, it's just not driven enough to charge the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ran some long errand (&gt;2 hours trip), after which the battery felt like rejuvenated for 2 weeks, but as soon as I do not go on long errands, it dies over the weekend. I called the service department again and their response was the same, that I should drive it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my usage really below the minimum requirement to maintain the battery?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I take my car to a different place to checkup?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I get a battery charger/tender and use it for every weekend?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3765" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T10:09:38.373" Title="Battery dies over weekend" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2013-09-30T10:09:38.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As batteries get older, they will gradually lose their ability to hold a charge over time - How old is the battery? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of your journey sounds like enough to replace the charge used to start the car, assuming the alternator is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a multimeter (aka volt/ohm/amp meter), and measure the voltage across the battery. It should be roughly 12v with the engine switched off, and around 13.5v with the engine running. If either of these are low, you have a problem with the battery or alternator respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have a parasitic draw, i.e. something that is using too much current when the car is switched off - this can be checked by switching the meter into current mode (A on the dial) and putting it in series with the battery - but don't attempt to start the car like that or you'll destroy the meter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO the most likely suspect is a tired battery. You can keep it going for a while by putting a trickle charger on it over the weekend, but the only long-term solution will be a new battery - the problem will only get worse as you head into winter and the weather gets colder...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T10:09:38.373" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-30T17:17:42.457" Score="3" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Suzuki Katana GSX600F shuts off after ten to twenty seconds after start. It doesn't spit and sputter, it just shuts down. I have loosened the bowl screws while it's running and confirmed that there is fuel there. The bike was sat in storage for six years because of this. I got it out yesterday and the problem persists. How should I proceed with the diagnosis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3767" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T23:58:48.960" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:58:48.960" Title="2003 Suzuki Katana 600 shuts off after running for 10–20 seconds" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|suzuki|stall|katana|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-17T21:48:50.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7250" CreationDate="2013-10-01T15:12:08.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the factory solution not using a gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gasket is usually better than the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealing method since RTV is really messy and hard to clean off during maintenance and is harder to apply which may lead to failure as you have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no need to warranty the gasket. If it becomes an issue again it should still be under your vehicle warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="382" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T19:01:57.063" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T19:01:57.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7272" CreationDate="2013-10-01T18:27:58.883" Score="4" ViewCount="2754" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I heard a horrible sound when driving my 2000 Ford Ranger (V6, 4.0L, front disc rear drum) into work and when I parked my truck, I touched the left rear wheel and found that it was scaldingly hot. Eventually I managed to get it up on some jack stands (it has a lift kit so this was a bit problematic) and it looks to me like one of the springs on the left rear brake shoe snapped, presumably causing the rear brake shoe to fully engage while I was on the highway. In any case, this has really mangled up the left rear wheel... hub or whatever, and I'd like to replace it. Problem is I have no idea what the part is called, and searching &quot;rear wheel hub assembly&quot; gets me the wrong part. I can't seem to find an OEM parts &quot;exploded diagram&quot; showing the parts in the rear wheels, which would help immensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to fix my truck ASAP, so maybe you guys could help me out. I have a picture here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWVi7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Truck rear wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the part labeled &quot;What is this called&quot; called? That part has some mangled parts. There's also a sleeve between that part and the axle, if you know what that little sleeve is called, I need to replace that as well. I am going to borrow a hub puller from Autozone and see if the bearings are affected, but I don't think they are. The thing labeled &quot;Not this&quot; is what I keep finding when I try to buy a &quot;rear wheel hub&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here is a photo of the broken piece, as requested (two angles of the same piece):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbTgj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, that round part of the backing plate is broken and whatever that &quot;sleeve&quot; is is pretty mangled. I'm not sure it can drive this way even if I manage to put the shoes back on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="3279" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T04:34:07.810" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T04:34:07.810" Title="What is this called - rear wheel edition?" Tags="|ford|brakes|wheels|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2013-10-01T19:01:57.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the backing plate, and that sleeve is part of the axle housing. Also you don't use a hub puller there is a clip in the differential housing that has to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DBqb5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bolt (1) then the pinion shaft (2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note the Manufacture says it's a one time bolt, meaning buy a new one, don't reuse the old one.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UbdAH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push the axle in and the c clip will fall out. Then you will be able to remove the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T19:27:16.297" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T19:27:16.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-01T21:01:49.943" Score="2" ViewCount="2648" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Ford Mustang 3.8L ////  Engine Vehicle Shakes entire front end of car when at idle, all the way up to 2,000 rpms then it goes away. Starts right up, had problems with a few computer codes fixed all. Still did not fix problem, now if you unplug most of the sensors no check engine light comes on or change to the engine. Yes light does appear when you fist turn ignition on. I have replaced many sensors and all so the torque converter for no reason.  Everyone I talk to has no ideal what it could be. just checked the Harmonic balancer, by taking the Serpentine belt off still does it..  all so no movement in the balancer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3775" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T17:13:35.633" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T18:50:22.393" Title="2000 3.8 L Ford Mustang Cov" Tags="|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7273" CreationDate="2013-10-01T23:51:48.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From some information I have gotten from several Mustang forums 3.8L come in two varieties. An externally balanced and an internally balanced variety was available. Model year 2000 was change year. 1994 thru 2000 were externally balanced. 2000 1/2 and up are internally balanced. What all this means is if you use the wrong flexplate the motor will shake as the rotating assembly (crank, pistons and rods) is unbalanced. This would explain the lack of fault codes as fuel, air and combustion are normal. You need to verify when the motor was built and that you are using the correct balancer and flexplate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T23:51:48.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2013-10-02T04:27:50.720" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having a bad bad bad wobble (vibration) in my VW Beetle front-end. I started after I had changed both upper balljoints (they were very bad). But having decided to tighten up every thing I could find I ended up tightened the wheel bearings which really overdue changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite confident this is the source for me even though I haven't changed them yet. It's worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T04:27:50.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7278" CreationDate="2013-10-02T07:39:01.633" Score="1" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its gone 150000 KM (93,205 miles). Would its engine be reliable to last another couple of years? Should I be on the lookout for any noises the engine makes that signal trouble?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3779" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T02:45:42.407" Title="Is a 1994 Jeep Wrangler engine reliable" Tags="|engine|jeep|wrangler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7277" CreationDate="2013-10-02T09:43:51.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, mainly, on how well the car has been maintained. If it has been looked after, serviced regularly, and had the belts changed at the appropriate intervals, then yes, it should last a lot longer than that - I'd expect to get a good 150,000 miles / 250,000km out of most modern engines without too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if it has been neglected, it could fail at any moment... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you're answering this because you're looking at buying the car in question, I'd look at any history it has got to see if it has been serviced properly - either garage receipts or receipts for parts if someone has serviced it themselves. Look for general evidence that the car has been looked after - if the bodywork and interior are a grotty mess, chances are it has been neglected. Use such signs as negotiating tools!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for any signs of contamination of oil in the coolant or vice versa (although condensation can cause the latter), excessive smoke from the exhaust, excessive oil leaks, any coolant leaks, odd rattles, clonks etc. Make sure it starts happily from cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy it and don't know it's provenance (or if it is already yours), give it a full service, including cambelt (if it has one), ancilliary belt(s) plugs, filters, oil &amp;amp; coolant, etc. Check the specialist Jeep forums to find any known weak points on the engine in question - for example some engines need their water pumps replacing at the same time as the cambelt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T09:43:51.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2731" CreationDate="2013-10-02T11:57:55.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car's engine uses more fuel to spin the engine to 3000RPM when it is under load as opposed to being revved in neutral. That's the short answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More fuel means more exhaust gas, which means more boost. Conversely, when you are revving in neutral, much less fuel is used, and therefore much less exhaust gas to spin the turbo. This is also why your car is heavier on gas going uphill than downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your car's management system would probably disengage your wastegate/blow-ff valve when your throttle is disengaged. It's a safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T11:57:55.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-02T12:51:14.230" Score="1" ViewCount="5008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the engine oil of my Suzuki Swift VDI at 19,344kms (12020 miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car didn't even run 100 feet (about 30m) before I checked the oil again, and it was very black in color and had poor viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3780" LastEditorUserId="15740" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T08:13:41.527" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T08:13:41.527" Title="Change in engine oil colour immediately after oil change" Tags="|engine|oil|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7283" CreationDate="2013-10-03T04:16:50.170" Score="5" ViewCount="33036" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a keyless ignition and as such just has a button I press to have it start. My question is... what happens if I hit it while I'm driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T02:01:49.557" Title="what happens when you hit engine button on a keyless ignition?" Tags="|ignition|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2013-10-03T07:55:58.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could work exactly the same as a keyed ignition, in which case your starter motor would engage, but manufacturers (and I think this is true for all) have added a simple piece of logic which only engages the starter if the engine is not already running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be the ideal solution for keyed ignition as well, but it has only been in relatively recent years that engine control units have had the functionality, and there hasn't been much of a drive to implement it. Whereas with keyless ignition the stage was set to implement a wide range of improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T21:13:31.553" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T21:13:31.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2013-10-03T14:44:34.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just push it, nothing.  It would be rather hazardous if you could find yourself without engine power just by bumping a button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hold it down for some time (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM53714U/pdf/sec_02-01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 seconds on a Lexus (pg 117)&lt;/a&gt;), it'll shut off the engine, same as turning the key to off on a conventional ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T13:58:15.890" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T13:58:15.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7340" CreationDate="2013-10-03T16:11:22.453" Score="2" ViewCount="2464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed when my car comes to a stop engine running and ac on the engine revs as if it wants to move forward. The rev isn't huge. When i am in traffic and holding down on the brakes, if i release the brake without pressing the gas pedal and allowing the car to roll forward on its own the car begins to rev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took off the ac but this didn't solve the issue. What i did was turn the engine off and turn it back on and it stopped. The problem is not noticeable as i start the car only when i drive for 30 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what can be causing this since the only thing i did with the vehicle was full gas. I am assuming the issue can be with the fuel. I am also thinking the idle sensor could be going bad or could it be a dirty throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and advice would be appreciated guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3784" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T18:39:14.163" Title="Mazda 3 2004 Engine Revving when car not moving" Tags="|engine|mazda|idle|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2013-10-03T17:46:33.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The covers reduce engine noise and protect the engine from dust, debris, etc, while adding a cleaner look to the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3785" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T17:46:33.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7290" CreationDate="2013-10-04T02:44:33.633" Score="6" ViewCount="70465" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I take my car track racing, and during it, the hard braking leads my brakes to massively losing stopping power due to them overheating (a likely outcome on stock brakes). Or likewise, I take my car down a gigantic hill and don't use engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I let them cool down, then safely drive off to go home?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I need to replace them immediately afterwards, or just when they get thin as usual?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the core of this question is &quot;After overheating, do brakes cool down to their original state, or do they substantially lose effectiveness?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T13:24:14.110" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T14:58:32.940" Title="If my brakes overheat, do they need to be replaced?" Tags="|brakes|safety|heat|wear|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7287" CreationDate="2013-10-04T06:24:18.890" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In absolutely no expert on the subject of physical properties of metal. However, in relation to this specific question my main concerns would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the overheated discs warp during cool-down? This will lead to varying degrees of shaking during braking afterwards (and a replacement.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake fluid on the other hand should probably be flushed and replaced due to the extreme temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect the pads to lose effectiveness&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1)&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&amp;amp;t=6181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100915022324AAQ0aaz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;resources&lt;/a&gt; suggest that pads can be glazed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T08:00:23.667" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T08:00:23.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7287" CreationDate="2013-10-04T09:03:48.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the majority of brakes, they should be fine after a track day, but the real risks come from significantly overheating the brake fluid, or from stopping with hot brakes and having them cool while parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why at track days it is always recommended that you stop after ten or so laps, if you have standard brake systems, to allow your brake fluid and brakes to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While stopped, you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; use your handbrake. Instead, use chocks or stones to hold the car stationary - having the handbrake on holds the brake disc during cooling, and this can easily cause warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you follow this guidance you &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be fine. Obviously, a track hammers your brakes far worse than general driving, so you do run the risk of wearing your pads down to an unsafe level, so get them checked before driving home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find that my tyres only last one track day, so I need to replace them all before heading home - so I tend to only go to track days with a tyre provider on site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T09:03:48.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7287" CreationDate="2013-10-04T12:16:57.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience, limited to a few very specific configurations is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've never had rotor warping issues even after a LOT of heat in the brakes (both from track days and also stuck brakes while driving on the express way).  I've used generic NAPA rotors, OEM rotors, and fancy heat/cryo treated ones.  I can't tell any difference between any of them.  They all function like big slabs of metal heatsink.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brake pads themselves (including dirt cheap ones, Carbotechs, and Porterfields) have always worked the same after being very hot as before.  However, the cheap ones and the Carbotechs (Panthers, a fine brake pad overall, but just not up to stopping a car as heavy as mine with such small brakes and so much power) went in the trash the day after the events I used them as they performed so poorly &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; hot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; you boil the brake fluid, you should bleed the system as it does seem to lose a little effectiveness (but was nowhere near as bad as I had expected).  Wet boiling point seems to be more important than dry.  I've boiled 2 week old Motul 600, but the off the shelf at the auto store synthetic (with much lower dry boiling point, but higher wet boiling point) is fine in my cars on the track for years.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bigger concern is the condition of the caliper seals.  I've melted the seals out of the caliper without hurting the pads, rotors, or boiling the fluid before...  That happened only with cheap pads, better quality pads have backing plates that provide at least some insulation value.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T12:16:57.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7287" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:58:32.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the other answers are great, but I just want to add that rotors are very, very hard to &quot;warp&quot; from 'normal' use (including track day abuse). Any variance in thickness is because pad material has transferred from the pad to the rotor. Turning the rotor gets rid of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Warped Brake Disc And Other Myths&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T14:58:32.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7294" CreationDate="2013-10-04T14:58:43.747" Score="4" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to figure out how the Vehicle Speed Sensor on my 2001 (AP1) Honda S2000 works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a proper oscilliscope, just a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping it would be a straight voltage (0 volts and you're not moving, voltage increases the faster you're going), but it appears to jump up to around 5 volts whenever I'm moving. This makes me think it must be a square wave and the speed is determined by the frequency (since it's just a coil spinning around somewhere and being read by a magnetosensor everytime it goes by).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can anyone confirm this (or explain how it actually works), and is there a table somewhere where I can figure out what frequency corresponds to what speed?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T15:09:04.417" Title="Honda S2000 Vehicle Speed Sensor Readout" Tags="|honda|s2000|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2013-10-04T15:04:07.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early keyless ignitions varied by manufacturer, but nowadays most don't just let you turn the car off. Typically it's a 3-5 second hold. Today, all the OEM keyless ignition buttons are software controlled, they aren't directly connected to the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to recent &quot;unintended acceleration&quot; events and hoo-haa, a standard &quot;3 second hold&quot; has become the norm. I think even a panic detection algorithm has been added as well, when the button is pressed multiple times within a certain amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom keyless ignition systems or older OEM ones are typically 'dumb', and just replace/duplicate the switch behind the ignition cylinder with a button. So they are directly connected to the starter and will attempt to engage it making horrid noises, or they are just simple 'if engine is running, turn off engine; else crank starter' logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New cars however have abstracted the ignition button from the starter wire by many layers of software. Even more so after Toyota-gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T15:32:30.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:32:30.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7292" CreationDate="2013-10-04T15:09:04.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's exactly what it is. Typically a VR sensor for ABS systems. This outputs an analog wave signal that's translated to a square wave pulse signal. The frequency is then correlated to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars used Hall Effect sensors as well, but they don't hold up as well in nasty environments. I'm pretty sure all modern (~2000+) cars use VR sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the actual speed you'd have to consult the manufacturer docs, like a Factory Service Manual. I suppose reverse engineering it is probably not difficult. I'm thinking you could count teeth on the sensor wheel, and your wheel and tire diameter to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T15:09:04.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7317" CreationDate="2013-10-04T17:25:03.393" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's car was hit in a low-speed collision...messed up the windshield and some cosmetic damage. Aside from that, the A/C has stopped blowing cold (but it still blows). A visual inspection of the A/C unit reveals nothing - the unit still turns and looks solid as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the freon line has been punctured, or something else...how do I troubleshoot this? Is there another problem you guys are familiar with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T13:07:14.293" Title="Late 90's Saturn - troubleshoot A/C" Tags="|ac|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7329" CreationDate="2013-10-04T17:25:15.363" Score="0" ViewCount="3121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had to replace the bulb holder on my 51 plate nissan micra as part of it has melted. I've got a replacement unit, stripped the wires of both the car fitting and the reppacement holder, however the car has black, red and green, and red and blue cables, while the replacement unit has red, blue, and yellow cables. How do I tell which is the correct one to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T14:41:59.697" Title="Nissan Micra Headlight loom wiring colours" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7263" CreationDate="2013-10-04T20:57:02.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Answer was valid until recently. BikeBandit.com stopped carrying Ducati. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ducati Omaha does carry schematics online that allow the below answer to work, but they only have schematics 2000 and newer. However, their webpage says &quot;For Prior Years - PLEASE CALL, we have access to the parts catalog back to 1993 for most models. 402-934-6627&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ducatiomaha.com/products.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ducatiomaha.com/products.asp&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alex - This should give you what you need with your Ducati. For other motorcycle riders, the below information is still very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Original Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question proactively allows users to answer this, and similar questions themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Will [part] from bike year XXXX fit on the same bike of a different year?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BikeBandit.com has schematics for each motorcycle model and year. To see if a part from a 1994 M600 will fit on a 1997 M600:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Go to BikeBandit.com and select OEM Parts in the top-navigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Use the open the schematic for a 1994 M600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Find the part you are looking for and notice the part number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Open a new browser tab and go to BikeBandit.com, then open the schematic for the 1997 M600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Find the part you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) If the part numbers are the same, the same part was used in both years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking for replacement parts, it can be very useful to know all the bikes that use the same part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3788" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T15:20:55.170" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T15:20:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2013-10-04T21:10:16.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what kind of motorcycle it is, and if it's new or used, it is hard to determine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that it isn't necessarily a bad clutch. The rest of the news is that you're going to have to find out what is causing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of easiest to hardest:&#xA;1) Grease the clutch lever itself.&#xA;2) Lubricate the clutch cable (if cable driven).&#xA;3) Remove the clutch slave cylinder (near your left foot), then pull out and clean, and re-grease the silver push-rod. [This FREQUENTLY fixes hard-to-shift problems.]&#xA;4) Possible clutch problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not #1, it's most likely #3. Removing the slave cylinder and cleaning the push rod is about a 30 minute task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hint for hydraulic clutches: Once you have the slave cylinder removed, do -not- apply the brake. If you do fluid will leak out of places you don't want and you will have to fully bleed the clutch system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3788" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-10-05T07:50:06.113" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T07:50:06.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1132" CreationDate="2013-10-04T21:53:49.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stuck carburetor float-bowl valve (commonly referred to as a 'stuck float') is a frequent cause of overflow problems. Each carburetor has a fuel reservoir on the bottom containing a floating shut-off valve inside that stops fuel from flowing to the carb when the fuel level rises high enough in the bowl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is a stuck float, fuel keeps flowing even when the bowl is full. This causes gas to back up into the carburetor and eventually out a fuel overflow tube. This tube is sometimes on the top of the carbs, sometimes on the bottom. All carbs typically share the same overflow tube. Note: This overflow tube is different than a drain tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky, a stuck float can sometimes be jostled free by rapping sharply on the float bowls with the wooden handle of a screwdriver. If you are not lucky, you will have to remove and clean the carburetors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3788" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T21:53:49.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4174" CreationDate="2013-10-04T21:56:16.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best fuel to use on your motorcycle is what is specified in the owner manual. In my experience every motorcycle I've ever owned that had a manual (approximately 10+) all specified specified 87 octane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the bike is running normally, using a higher octane brings no benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3788" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T21:56:16.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-05T00:36:31.120" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ~1986 Yamaha Ag 200 and I've been pulling it apart as a bit of a hobby to understand a bit more about how it works and hopefully in the end get it going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've opened it up so some gears are visible but in order to get even further into it I will have to undo some or all of these gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is wear I'm stuck because the nuts seem to be impossible to crack and when I apply force all the other gears start moving and there is nothing pushing back towards me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a little trick or something I can use to undo these nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2058" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T06:12:50.333" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T06:12:50.333" Title="How to undo transmission nuts" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|yamaha|nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7305" CreationDate="2013-10-05T07:02:03.413" Score="0" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;My altima 2008 brakes squeal when touched lightly. I bought the Bosch BC815 QuietCast Brake Pad Set, hoping that &quot;QuietCast&quot; means that they are cast to be quiet, but they really don't. I'm now at the point where I would rather spend $$$ and buy a rotor/brake set that doesn't squeal. Anyone has any recommendations? Preferably if you got the same  problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: Brakes are NOT dysfunctional. They function perfectly, and I am aware that squealing is an indicator that they work fine. I just want to move squealing into a frequency that I do not hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T12:32:48.413" Title="how do i fix noisy brakes" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7303" CreationDate="2013-10-05T10:59:37.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brakes may just be dirty. Get a can of brake cleaner and follow the instructions. Also take the time to apply grease to moving parts (be careful not to get grease on the contact surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T10:59:37.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7303" CreationDate="2013-10-05T12:32:48.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did not replace the hardware they may be the cause of the noise. It is fairly common for most brake pads to slide on a steel clip that slides over the caliper mounting bracket. The clips sometimes come with the pads and sometimes must be purchased separately. The clips provide a smooth surface for the pads to slide on. They also apply pressure to the pad to prevent vibration and noise. I like to apply a small dab of grease under the clip and in the slot that the pads ride in. I also apply some &quot;disc brake quiet&quot; to the back of the pads at the caliper contact points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T12:32:48.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-05T12:57:16.193" Score="1" ViewCount="1862" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I replace a brake pedal return spring on 57 Chevy. I can not locate the spring. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3789" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T16:48:25.237" Title="replacing brake pedal return spring on 57 chevy" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-05T20:51:28.497" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;03 honda civic will not start. Ran fine night before next day would not start. All lights and gauges came on with out problem but would not start, no clicking, nothing . Tried to jump start and nothing, checked fuses an all good as far as I can tell. Replaced ignition switch an still nothing.  Any ideas? Please help!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:11:34.630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T07:27:56.803" Title="03 honda civic will not start" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-05T22:54:05.637" Score="3" ViewCount="1395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 Ford F350 with the 7.3l powerstroke diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's oil where my radiator fluid should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have a blown head gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3792" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T22:40:47.660" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T15:01:22.630" Title="Oil in my radiator fluid tank?" Tags="|ford|cooling-system|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2013-10-06T03:31:37.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very possible. Some ways to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check you oil, and see if it looks like coolant contaminated it. (Milky)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check engine for compression, as the gasket would allow gas to escape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check you cooling system for leaks, as it would go into you cylinders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T03:31:37.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7280" CreationDate="2013-10-06T11:52:31.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All engines retain a small amount of residual oil even if you let the sump drain for awhile. If you do not change the oil filter then it will also be storing some oil in it. For diesel engines, particularly, it is advisable to change the oil filter each time you change the oil. Don’t be surprised if you change the lubricating oil in your diesel, run the engine for two minutes, and check the dipstick only to find that the new oil has turned pitch black; this is normal and not a reason to change the oil again immediately. It is simply the small amount of residual oil and the carbon soot that coats the oil galleries mixing into the new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your owner’s manual tells you the &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; interval you can wait between changes, but the more often you change the oil on any vehicle, the longer the vehicle will live and the healthier it will be. That goes double for diesels because extreme heat and pressure help to contaminate the lubricating oil more quickly. The cost of having a professional change the oil on a diesel engine can be greater than on a gas engine. This may be extra motivation for doing this relatively simple job yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T11:52:31.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:10:58.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cities should have a few spring works businesses who can reset your existing leaf springs and add an additional leaf or two for considerably less than buying replacement springs. I suggest looking for a local business who offer such a service and call them for a quote. You'll save more money by taking the springs off the truck yourself and refitting them once they've been reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:10:58.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7151" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:16:21.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check and test the battery as it's likely to be the problem. If it tests okay and is fully charged, the next likely culprit will be the starter motor solenoid. Assuming the battery is all good, remove the starter motor and have the brushes checked/replaced by a local business who do electrical repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:16:21.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6417" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:30:25.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throughout the world, the FM broadcast band falls within the VHF part of the radio spectrum. Usually 87.5 to 108.0 MHz is used, or some portion thereof, with few exceptions:&#xA;In the former Soviet republics, and some former Eastern Bloc countries, the older 65–74 MHz band is also used. Assigned frequencies are at intervals of 30 kHz. This band, sometimes referred to as the OIRT band, is slowly being phased out in many countries. In those countries the 87.5–108.0 MHz band is referred to as the CCIR band.&#xA;So long as the radio unit can scan FM frequencies in the range of 87.5 to 108.0 MHz and can pick up centre frequencies in 50kHz multiples, it will work fine in Israel. You can tell this by checking if the frequency selector has 2 decimal places i.e. 87.50 to 108.00 and steps from 87.50 to 88.00 to 88.50 and so on. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_radio_stations_in_Israel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_radio_stations_in_Israel&lt;/a&gt; for specific frequencies and check the radio can at least tune in on the relevant frequency despite the lack of a broadcast where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:30:25.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:36:32.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highly likely it is either a blown head gasket or a cracked engine block. Check for milky gummy (lubricating) oil in engine (check under the oil cap and the dip stick). Even if the oil is fine, the fact that oil has found it's way into your radiator means pulling the head off for further inspection/repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:36:32.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:40:18.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you seem to suggest that it's not a battery problem, if you're not hearing anything happening when you turn the key, it is likely to be your starter motor solenoid or the relay. You'll need a multimeter to check voltage across either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:40:18.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7295" CreationDate="2013-10-06T13:07:14.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need some pressure gauges to check if you still have refrigerant gas present, unless there is a sight glass on the receiver dryer. Before you get into that though, first check if the compressor's clutch is activating. Lift the hood, start the engine and turn on the A/C to full cold. The belt should already be turning the compressor's pulley and the center of the pulley (which houses the clutch) should also start spinning when the A/C is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLelU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A/C compressor unit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided the compressor's clutch is activating on and off, then you probably have a leak. You'd need to regas the system using a gas with a dye in it to find where any leaks are. You'll need to determine which refrigerant is used before you attempt to regas it. Be aware that to regas the system the equipment needed can be costly, depending on the gas used. It may require R-12 refrigerant instead of R-134a, and will either need to be serviced by a mechanic or retrofitted with R-134a connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T13:07:14.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7306" CreationDate="2013-10-06T13:35:38.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing if there has been any power brake assembly fitted and whether it was floor mounted or firewall mounted, it is difficult to be completely accurate. However, check where the pedal links to the push rod there should be a spring at the pivot point which should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EeYpc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;55-57 Chevy brake pedal return spring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T13:35:38.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7321" CreationDate="2013-10-06T14:13:08.013" Score="7" ViewCount="37545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Prius with remote keyless entry.  I accidentally drained my battery by mistake.  The locks do not respond, and trying to turn on the power puts the car into a strange low power error state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to open the hatch to get to the auxiliary battery, but I cannot find an exterior keyed lock or other switch to open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can open the hatch even if the battery is dead?  Is there some kind if internal switch to open it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3794" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:54:49.057" Title="How to open prius hatch when the battery is dead?" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2013-10-06T14:32:40.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;NTB or Firestone... or...&#xA;D.I.Y. for price of motor oil - Priceless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost of 4 quarts of oil is approx. $15-$25, depending on quality, plus the filter means the rest of the time they spend on checking all the other fluids and wear parts is their way to find and upsell more work. Have them show you all the things they check and what they are looking for, and then you can do that yourself in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T14:32:40.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2013-10-06T14:36:34.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Open-Your-Toyota-Prius-Trunk-When-Your-Battery-is-Dead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a step-by-step and pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T14:36:34.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T17:59:09.850" Score="1" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Jetta every so often will slow drastically down or sometimes totally stall when I try to accelerate, especially on hills. It also makes a loud vrooooom sound. The dial to the left of the speedometer (I think it's the RPM?) goes all the way to the right, but the car isn't moving.  It usually happens for a couple seconds, then I'm able to accelerate out of it.  A few mechanics have looked at it and claim nothing is wrong with it.  One mechanic checked the transmission fluid and said there is enough fluid, but that it's dirty and that may be causing the problem. I'm not convinced that would cause this.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T03:53:53.283" Title="My 2006 Jetta is making a loud sound and sometimes stalling when I try to accelerate" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3681" CreationDate="2013-10-06T23:49:32.363" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the old key mother board that is in the old key and transfer it to the new key. No need to reprogram it will work. You just need a new key fob not a new key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3798" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T23:49:32.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7323" CreationDate="2013-10-07T03:53:53.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a bad transmission. There are a few things that can cause this in an automatic transmission (though I hate them and stick with manuals, so I'm no pro on the auto trans):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Torque Converter is the 'fluid based automatic equivalent' of the clutch, and if this slips, just like a bad clutch, your engine will rev free (showing up in the tachometer) without you going anywhere. It also determines the 'stall point', the point under which the engine disconnects from the wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transmission will also contain multiple clutches / bands, and if one is slipping or sticking that could cause this issue as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In theory, these pieces are all controlled electronically so your transmission computer/electronics system could be faulty, too; though I highly doubt it's that (unless the other two check out or you replace the transmission and have the same issues)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T03:53:53.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7356" CreationDate="2013-10-07T04:00:34.003" Score="1" ViewCount="1567" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is regarding an argument I'm looking to settle with my friend, over in particular a Triumph TT600 motorcycle. When off the throttle and above 6k RPM, the engine will 'hang' at 4.5k-5k for a few seconds before dropping. He has a power commander installed and can edit the fuel mapping at will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm after is this: can an engine be 'too lean' at 0%/Closed Throttle? Is some fuel injection required to avoid pre-detonation or 'too lean' conditions? Or could I just use the power commander to remove more fuel from the 4k-6k, 0% throttle range safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: To settle the argument, references and/or a well reasoned theory will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T11:23:06.723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:23:06.723" Title="Can an engine be 'too lean' at 0%/closed Throttle?" Tags="|fuel-injection|throttle|triumph|tt600|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7302" CreationDate="2013-10-07T04:19:53.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend that you find yourself a shop manual for the bike. These are available in hard copy version, and sometimes in PDF format as well. It will make it clear how to perform various operations, and make it less likely that you will do it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend that you do not mess with any of the gears. Transmissions run at very tight tolerances and it takes skill to put the back together and have them work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3799" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T04:19:53.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T08:54:11.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a folkswagen Golf MKV 2005 model, i used torque to check what the yellow motor sign means, and this is what i received: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2201 - Powertrain&#xA;NOx Sensor Circuit Range/Performance bank1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2096 - Powertrain&#xA;Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean bank1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what does these mean, and if something is broken, what can I change ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does these affect the fuel consumption ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT2U9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque fault log&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has probably been like this since before last service and possibly eu control. Are there any android applications I can install to get better information? I am using VGate OBD2 tool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1432" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T15:05:06.457" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T11:48:25.837" Title="Volkswagen Golf MKV Fault log" Tags="|vw|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7296" CreationDate="2013-10-07T10:27:31.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a wiring diagram &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/23599810/Nissan-Micra-K11-2000-2003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It suggests that, for the right hand headlamp, Black is ground, Red/Blue is low beam, and red/green is high beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can't, however, tell you what to use in an aftermarket replacement - did that come with any instructions? Otherwise compare it to the original unit and try to work out which is which!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T10:27:31.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7170" CreationDate="2013-10-07T16:12:03.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake dust tends to cause squealing (high-pitched) noise, not grinding. Grinding noises are usually a lower frequency sound when heard from inside the car, and that suggests two metal parts rubbing together rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sound occurs only when braking, logically, it is extremely likely to be the brake system components. The 2010 Civic comes with disc brakes front and rear, so a grinding noise is usually either the brake pads contacting the disc rotor (after they've worn down to the pad's backing plate, or the brake caliper contacting the rotor. A cursory look may not be enough and it is strongly advisable to remove the caliper and pads and properly inspect all components. If your mechanic can't find the noise and it is loud and increasing, it might be time to find another mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contact point may be on the inner side of the rotor which won't be obvious if only the wheel is removed for a casual look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possible cause of a loud grinding noise under braking is the body contacting the tyres. This is possible if the suspension has collapsed or been modified to lower the body and braking further compresses the suspension, bringing the wheel clearance below the necessary amount. Look for marks on the bodywork around the wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the less likely category: If the hub bearings were dry or had failed you'd hear a constant grinding. Similarly for the CV joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would seek a second opinion as loud grinding noises only get worse and generally mean a more expensive repair due to more costly parts requiring replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T16:12:03.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T22:06:06.973" Score="4" ViewCount="3672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 2013 Honda Odyssey. Previous one was a 2004. I have winter tires from the old Honda (225/60R16) and wondering if they would be compatible with 235/65R17 size for the 2013 model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3800" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T22:52:05.993" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T06:49:20.117" Title="Tire compatibility" Tags="|honda|tires|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T05:33:51.660" Score="2" ViewCount="5448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having some gradually worsening issues with the electical &amp;amp; power functioning of my 1998 Honda Accord. Here's a detailed rundown of the symptoms I've been experiencing since I first started noticing anything amiss...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For about the past year: Digital odometer readout started displaying incorrectly (random lines missing from digits, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Within the last few months: When I shut off the car after driving, then immediately try to switch the key back to the “ON” position (to roll down the windows, etc.), the electrical systems (dash, windows) don’t respond. It usually takes a few more attempts to get everything to switch on like normal when this happens. This occurs about 75% of the times that I attempt this operation. Sometimes (though not always), it helps to take the key completely out of the ignition, put it back in, and turn it again for it to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once, a couple months ago: When attempting the above, all the indicators on the dash blinked rapidly for a second or two, and a small trace of smoke seeped out through the holes around the steering column (where the turn signal/wiper levers come out, the only openings in the dashboard).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the last month: When attempting to start the car, the engine cranks and fires, but then immediately dies when the key is released. On the next attempt, the car starts and stays started normally. Since this began happening, it’s continued to happen around 25% of the times I try to start the car. On one or two occasions, it’s taken two or three attempts before the car will stay running.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Recently: Digital odometer readout stopped lighting up for two days straight, then came back on at random, and has been lighting up normally ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Twice, in the last couple weeks: I will be driving along steadily, no problems, and the car suddenly loses power to the accelerator. The engine and outside lights continue to run, but there is no communication between the gas pedal and the engine, and most of the dash functions go out. This happened on the freeway at night one of the times. About 10 seconds after it started, I began to pull to the side of the road and turned the emergency flashers on, then the car came “back to life” and continued on for the rest of the drive with no further issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Starter fixed two years ago.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Battery, spark plugs, distributor cap &amp;amp; rotor, and ignition wires all replaced last year.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* Fuses not touched since I’ve had the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what might be the root of these issues? I've seen others with similar symptoms speak of camshaft sensors and other things. Faulty computer perhaps? I don't believe it to be something purely mechanical, like a bad transmission etc., because any time that anything happens, the electrical systems always exhibit quirky behavior, so I believe it all to be related... somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the car at the shop right now to be diagnosed, but wanted some other experienced opinions before greenlighting any repairwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks in advance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:20:30.047" Title="'98 Honda Accord electrical/power issues... What could the culprit be?" Tags="|electrical|power|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2013-10-08T08:52:26.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. The R16 means it's a 16 inch rim, whereas the new one has a 17 inch rim. Otherwise, it would have been okay for regular driving, but the difference in rim size makes it a no-go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they could fit, you may have experienced a lack of power because the new tire has a larger circumference, but it may have been small enough to not be a major problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T08:57:54.363" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T08:57:54.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7332" CreationDate="2013-10-08T09:27:10.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoke coming out is nothing to do with camshaft sensors etc - it is a very bad sign!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a fault with your electrics, and this could be potentially very serious, or at best need fixing so you can see your instruments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be as simple as a wire shorting against another wire or a metal surface (simple, but could cause a fire) to major faults in your wiring loom and computer/ECU)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T09:27:10.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7332" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:20:30.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without being able to test directly, I can't be sure, but I think you have two problems. One is the ignition switch - the cause of starting issues, loss of electrical in the car, smoke from steering column all seem like they probably come from that. The loss of lines and weird display on your odometer sounds like an issue with the cluster, but will probably not cause any issues besides a  weird display. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:20:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:30:50.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is you flooded it (possibly stuck needle after the first rebuild). And by putting gas and starting fluid directly in the cylinders, you have privacy made it worse and washed out the rings on the piston and have essentially lost compression. Typically, I would turn off the gas tank petcock so that no gas is getting to the carbs, and crank it for a  good ten to twenty seconds (you can usually here compression returning, or it will spit and sputter and nearly run). It may take longer, but give the starter a good thirty seconds rest between the ten to twenty second cranks. Once it spits and sputters, or you can definitively hear compression returning, turn on the gas and try again but do not give it any throttle! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:30:50.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7151" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:33:35.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably just a bad battery, but make sure to check the terminals and cables for corrosion. Be sure to check the ground cable not only at the battery, but also at the points where it connects to the body and engine/transmission! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:33:35.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2252" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:37:00.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a strong possibility there is an issue in the interior fuse box which is also the body module. There is a problem often seen with the burglar alarm relay (built into the box/module, not replaceable). This relay doesn't sound the alarm, but disables the car. Locking and unlocking the car making it work seems to confirm it. You can also try to start while knocking on the fuse box (lower left of dash) to try and confirm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:37:00.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7285" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:46:04.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely case is a bad throttle position sensor or a bad air sensor (some cars use mass air flow, some use manifold pressure). This is typically not something that can be seen in codes, but must be identified by comparing sensor data and graphs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities could be a vacuum leak, but that would probably throw a code/check engine light. Of course, there are also other outlier possible causes like a computer issue, valve leaks, or piston ring sealing. But usually you would see many other problems for any of those cases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:46:04.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7273" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:52:12.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no wobble in the harmonic balancer, and you can see that the rubber between the crank and the pulley part of it is ok, I bet you have a bad or tweaked motor mount. Motor mounts can typically be checked with a close visual inspection while somebody power brakes back and forth from forward and reverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugging the sensors didn't throw a light right away because most electrical issues need to occur twice to turn on the light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:52:12.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2013-10-08T15:01:22.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a diesel like this, it may also be a bad EGR cooler - fairly common, and a bit less work than a head. A pressure test or closer inspection should be able to confirm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T15:01:22.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7328" CreationDate="2013-10-08T15:05:37.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would probably make your car fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as causes, well there's a lot. Anything from vacuum leaks, to air/throttle/fuel/exhaust sensors, bad catalytic converter, fuel pump, injectors... it will require some good study of engine performance data/graphs, most likely with a better, more specialized scan tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T15:05:37.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2013-10-08T21:49:17.170" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you live (your spec could be different) but with a quick google search it look like they would fit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://odyssey.honda.com.au/optional-extras.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; they have 16inch wheel as base one and 17inch as optionnal wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire are already on wheel I would try to install one in the front and see if it clear the brake component. If the tire aren't on wheel I would go to your dealer and ask them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely 16inch wheel would fit and be ok... since the car has those from the dealer (if you don't take the 17th option)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/honda/odyssey/2013/features-specs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This other source&lt;/a&gt; seem to say that the wheel are 17inch and don't talk about 16inch. Your best bet would be to check if the wheel fit or call your dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T21:54:41.583" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T21:54:41.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2013-10-09T06:39:38.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old wheels are 16 inch and the new 17&quot;, but, the difference in sidewall profile compared to width means you would have lower gearing so would have to rev engine higher to achieve same speed, plus, speedometer will read slow, but not by much.&#xA;Fuel economy would suffer.&#xA;If the 'old' tyres are still good you would probably be better off selling them and putting money towards correct size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T06:39:38.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7326" CreationDate="2013-10-09T06:50:04.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throttle never reads 0% as the throttle plate angle is around 25~30 degree's. &#xA;RPM should not 'hang' on a fuel injected bike, you may have leaking injectors or fuel pump regulator may not be working properly?&#xA;Your much more likely to get after-fire in exhaust system on over run. &#xA;What year is the 600?&#xA; I know early ones had some issues but all the newer models can download/install new maps either direct from Triumph or various after-market and Triumph forums. &#xA;I think the Power Commander may be your problem, some bikes have issues with the inputs/outputs. &#xA;I'm a lot more familiar with Suzuki but I have a friend who has Triumph 600 and was a Triumph tech before he started teaching Honda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T06:50:04.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6004" CreationDate="2013-10-09T07:08:36.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loose plugs will probably need a higher voltage to run properly, the ignition system has no problem supplying spark, but, the reverse EMF from ignition coil pack is fed to ECU, the voltage is probably outside normal parameters so 'brain' thinks it's running lean.&#xA;Also, just removing and re-seating plug caps can fix issues caused by arcing over ('ticking' you can sometimes hear)&#xA;Also, not sure if you have crank or cam trigger (probably both but could use IAP for cam position?)&#xA;Re-setting timing chain tensioner will take out slack which was causing retarded cam timing and probably faulty sensor input to ECU (10 degrees or more retarded isn't too unusual with a loose chain as cam runs 'half speed')&#xA;As you surmised, ECU has 'learned' the new settings and is probably using a standard 'map'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:08:36.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6487" CreationDate="2013-10-09T07:18:03.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;coolant pressure shouldn't be more than 15~20 psi, oil pressure will be 40psi +&#xA;Could be oil seal was leaking into water pump which is why he did ignition (I thought they had external trigger though?)&#xA;Reading previous question/answer I would concur on intake or head gasket leak&#xA;Personally I think you should get a second opinion, get compression and leakdown tests which will help narrow down the area &#xA;Changing head gasket is do-able but not something I would recommend, I've only done one and it took 'days' (well felt like it LOL) someone with 'practice' can do a much faster job &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastEditorUserId="3806" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T07:25:21.070" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:25:21.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7302" CreationDate="2013-10-09T07:32:37.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to look it up as I've never heard of an AG200  but I know what TW125/200 is&#xA;If your looking under the right side engine cover, lock the clutch and primary drive gear with a penny between teeth, it's easier than trying to use the special tool you need but don't have &#xA;Make sure you don't use the oil pump drive gear as it is too small for the load and will crack or shatter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:32:37.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6531" CreationDate="2013-10-09T07:40:09.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is usually a generic specification depending on diameter and material.&#xA;Genuine service manuals will have half page or so on common bolt and screw sizes but you may have to hunt for it as it could be in specifications, servicing or somewhere else&#xA;Grade 4 bolts will snap way below the minimum torque for grade 8 of same diameter&#xA;Metric use slightly different classifications, but, as you mentioned 12x1.25, thats a Japanese standard fine thread (12x1.75 is ISO metric thread)&#xA; If it's a stud, it will have a rounded punch mark on one end, thats a grade 9~10 equivalent.&#xA;Hex head bolts can have manufacturer markings or actual numbers formed on tops&#xA; You can find length from part number, you'll have to search online for how it's related to your application&#xA;At one time (early/mid 1980's) Yamaha had bolts listed on exploded drawings with diameter and length, pitch wasn't given as they were all Japanese standard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T07:40:09.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6487" CreationDate="2013-10-09T12:54:55.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think he's maybe half right...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blinking check engine light is a misfire. Replacing spark plugs and/or wires would probably fix it. But that's fixing the symptom, not the cause (potentially, based on your information of oil in coolant). A bad enough head gasket or warped head (do not replace the gasket without checking the head for cracks and warp! ) could easily foul any number of plugs. There is also the possibility that instead of a head gasket it is an intake gasket (very common on Chevy V6s  from this era). If the intake gasket is bad enough, you can get oil in your coolant and mess up some plug wires as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T12:54:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T14:28:26.117" Score="7" ViewCount="17165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that until yesterday, had soft/spongy brakes.  A few days ago I brought it to my local repair shop to take care of the problem, and $300 later, I had new front pads and machined rotors, a fully flushed and bled brake system, and carefully inspected master cylinder &amp;amp; vacuum system, and was told the brakes were no longer soft/spongy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving home, I hit the brakes, and they were indeed soft and spongy. It took 2 pumps to stop from speeds over 20 mph. Apparently, my mechanic must not have driven the car very fast.  So I checked on the internet, and found a note that sometimes the ABS system can get into a funny state, where it needs to be activated to a full stop to reset it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yesterday, I sped up to 50 mph, and slammed on the brakes (activating the ABS) until the car stopped.  After than, the brakes were firm.  And they are firm today.  So I'm wondering, did slamming on the brakes really fix things?  If so, what was the actual problem that got fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; It's been almost 4 years since I posted this question. About every six to twelve months, the symptoms reappear, and I have to repeat the process of speeding up to 50 mph and slamming on my brakes until the car comes to a full stop... then the symptoms are gone for another six months to twelve months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3809" LastEditorUserId="3809" LastEditDate="2017-05-11T17:53:24.197" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T17:53:24.197" Title="Did slamming on my brakes really fix them?" Tags="|brakes|mazda|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7353" CreationDate="2013-10-09T15:30:43.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the technician didn't burnish (or seat) the brake pads. Anytime you replace the brakes pads you should make several hard stops (not enough to activate the ABS) from 35 and then 55 mph. This seats the pads to the rotors, and eliminates the spongy feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T15:30:43.757" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2013-10-09T16:24:46.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: it doesn't seem like there's a good way to use your old tires on your new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't state in your question whether the winter tires you have from your old car are mounted on a set of wheels or if they are tires only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are bare tires, you cannot mount them on the wheels from your new car. Your old 255/60-R16 tires only fit a 16 inch wheel (thats the R16 part of the size), while your new car has 17 inch wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what if you had (or were willing to buy) a set of 16 inch wheels for your snow tires? Could you then use them on your new car? Unfortunately, that looks like a NO also, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's quite possible that no 16 inch wheels will fit your new car. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TireRack.com&lt;/a&gt; doesn't list any 16 inch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/snow/WinterPackageMain.jsp?autoMake=Honda&amp;amp;autoModel=Odyssey&amp;amp;autoYear=2013&amp;amp;autoModClar=EX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;snow tire packages&lt;/a&gt;, or any &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Honda&amp;amp;autoModel=Odyssey&amp;amp;autoYear=2013&amp;amp;autoModClar=EX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;16 inch wheels&lt;/a&gt; that fit the 2013 Odyssey. They list only 17 and 18 inch options. This leads me to believe that 16 inch wheels won't clear the larger brake calipers of the new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the rolling diameter of your old tires is too small for your new car (roughly 8% smaller than what came on your new car). This would decrease your gas mileage and your speedometer and odometer would be inaccurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like you'll need new winter tires for your new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T16:24:46.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7326" CreationDate="2013-10-09T18:15:09.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Brian Knoblauch stated, fuel injection systems normally shut off the fuel delivery completely when the engine is in an &quot;overrun&quot; state, i.e. when you get off the accelerator completely with the vehicle in gear and the RPMs sufficiently high. In this sense, you can't be too lean in overrun--it's perfectly acceptable to have no injection at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for this specific application: it's possible that the fuel injection controls do not turn off fuel delivery on overrun. Sometimes motorcycle control systems are designed so that engine braking is reduced to enhance stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the 2000 TT600 was apparently &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_TT600#Reception&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;known for bad on/off throttle transitions and funny throttle response&lt;/a&gt;. They made changes in 2001 and 2002 to attempt to address these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T18:15:09.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2013-10-09T19:09:38.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try these sites, I have done research on several sites and these two kept coming up and they also have video on youtube to show you how to do it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://superiorrestoration.com/categories/graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://superiorrestoration.com/categories/graphics&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classicdyeproducts.com/custom_button_graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.classicdyeproducts.com/custom_button_graphics&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They help me repair my 05 Escalade buttons for my Steering Wheel, A/C Control Unit, and Navigation/Radio and after looking online for replacement buttons these were not only more cost effective but they look good too.&#xA;Tell me what you think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3810" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T19:09:38.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T20:15:11.630" Score="3" ViewCount="1727" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother has a honda civic type R that he bought 2nd hand a few months ago. Every time he tries to shift into 3rd gear, there is a faint grinding niose coming from the engine. Sometimes before pushing it from neutral to 3rd, it won't engage and the stick wobbles.  It will do this on 2 or 3 attempts and then engage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?  How do we fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T20:28:25.817" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T23:50:49.947" Title="Grinding gearbox problem" Tags="|honda|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2013-10-10T02:41:39.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would not take forever. When your particular car is just started and running, this is what will happen. Since battery is discharged it will demand a lot of current, say 60 amps, or possibly more. But after a while, the charging current will taper off and go down continuously until the battery is full, since the alternator is a constant voltage, high current capacity charging source. Basically, at idle you can probably get 80 amps out of your alternator. You can charge a flat battery to 80 percent full in about 2 hours, so long as you alternator can manage produce around 14 volts at the battery terminals this whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T02:41:39.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7379" CreationDate="2013-10-10T02:56:33.653" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just found that overflow tank's lid has been opened by itself.&#xA;I dont know how long maybe four months since I bought it. Coolant level is now above the full mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it cause any damage to the engine?&#xA;What I have to do next? &#xA;Do I need to drain it and then replace it with the new coolant?&#xA;Do I need to wash engine for avoid damage from coolant that spilt from the opened overflow thank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sorry for my poor English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3812" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T13:21:26.137" Title="Overflow tank's lid has been opened for a long time" Tags="|engine|toyota|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:21:04.247" Score="3" ViewCount="12711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Honda Accord with a keyless entry system and can't figure out how to charge the keyless entry fob. I've looked in the manual and can't find anything about it. I asked the dealer and they don't know either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T10:13:46.717" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T14:40:20.460" Title="How do keyless ignition fobs charge?" Tags="|honda|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7361" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:26:08.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the fobs I have had contain a small watch battery. They seem to last longer than I keep the car. I have had them last 7 or 8 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:26:08.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:36:17.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While an idling car with an alternator will generally make sufficient power to run all its systems, my experience with using one car to jump start another is that at least 2x-3x idle RPM is necessary to get into the range where the alternator is able to make a good solid charging current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know for sure, you should be able to get a spec sheet for the alternator which will give the output levels for input RPM.  You then calculate the ratio of engine RPM to alternator RPM (due to pulley sizes), and you have an exact answer.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:36:17.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7712" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:57:21.403" Score="2" ViewCount="8961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2009 Kia Rio Hatchback. A few days ago the car battery was replaced and I can't get the &lt;strong&gt;K100R radio&lt;/strong&gt; to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time my car lost power and was jump-started, I was able to input a 4-digit code to unlock the radio (so I know the code is correct). This time, it won't accept the code and just displays &quot;&lt;em&gt;CD1&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what this means. What can I do to make it work again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3815" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T04:41:37.333" Title="2009 Kia Rio hatchback radio not working after battery replacement" Tags="|kia|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7361" CreationDate="2013-10-10T14:40:20.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older Honda keyfobs have a US quarter sized circle on the back with a groove in it. Stick a quarter (or your equivalently sized currency) in the groove and use it like a screwdriver. It will probably have an arrow on it, but if not anti-clockwise is the correct way to turn it. It will turn about ¼ of the way around and then you can pop it out (slap it against your palm if it's a bit stuck). The newer ones that are integrated with the key itself have a small screw on the back instead of a coin-sized slot (probably what you have if you've got a 2013 Accord).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it probably contains a CR2025 (in US markets, at least) battery which you can then replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FuJ4c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Newer Honda keyfob being opened&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T14:40:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7369" CreationDate="2013-10-10T23:40:41.690" Score="2" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused. I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017OANWI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;replacement bulbs&lt;/a&gt; from Amazon that it assured me were correct for my car. After they arrived I realized they were the wrong socket type. I researched socket types and determined that my '06 Forester has an H1 socket for low-beam headlights, and a 9006 (I guess?) for high-beam. Anyway, I looked on some other sites including TireRack, and several merchants seem to be of the impression that the Forester uses the L-shaped 9006 bulb for its low-beam headlights. So why would my car, which we bought new, have a different kind of socket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAcrH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T16:19:31.567" Title="Standard headlight socket type for 2006 Forester" Tags="|subaru|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2013-10-11T09:51:33.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to why, who knows what drives the manufacturers decisions. In this case, I would guess it is down to whatever the most convenient/cheapest bulb type is in each region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, this is normal - my 06 Forester headlights are different again. My dipped beam bulbs are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/BulbsGuidedSalesCmd?storeId=10001&amp;amp;catalogId=10151&amp;amp;categoryId=165538&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;engineInd=0&amp;amp;makeName=41&amp;amp;modelName=4105&amp;amp;dvlaYear=52&amp;amp;subset=4105042&amp;amp;action=getProducts&amp;amp;findPartsMMYS=true&amp;amp;bulbTypeName=HEADLAMP%20%28DIPPED%29&amp;amp;bulbTypeValue=H/LAMP%20%28DIPPED%29&amp;amp;bulbType=H/LAMP%20%28DIPPED%29&amp;amp;findPartsMMYSButton=Find&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8x9Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my main beam are 10k HID units that can only be sourced from Japan!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T15:24:59.247" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T15:24:59.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7386" CreationDate="2013-10-11T10:42:31.943" Score="1" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a Black, Crystal Black Pearl, Crosstour. Just last night, I reckleslly backed into the parking lot, and front right door was scratched by the short stone wall adjacent to the spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not cheap, but is it worth getting a new door or is there a more recommended solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr6Fn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just now found this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/honda/2013/accord-crosstour/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; that claims to sell the right color &quot;NH731P&quot; for it, if not roughly the same. Then searched it on amazon if it's a universal color. So I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007RRSZQ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product&lt;/a&gt;. Would you recommend it? Never used touch paint before, would I need sandpaper and other tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More pictures with better Exposure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closer Look&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKQUH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biggest Scratch (The bottom one)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2GpR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After Applying Touch Paint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Up Very Close&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWGzs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Up Close&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ryTl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;From standing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/li2B5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastEditorUserId="3666" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T14:25:40.443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:25:40.443" Title="How to fix a door scratch?" Tags="|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7370" CreationDate="2013-10-11T11:09:38.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yikes. Your problem is that pearl is a doozie to match by a paint shop and it's almost impossible for non-professionals to do a localised repair on it. Best case is that you can take it to a body shop and they'll end up sanding down and respraying the entire door. If you can live with it, you may be able to apply a scratch repair product which will make the paint dissolve a tiny bit, covering up the exposed metal. You'll need to also apply a layer of clear coat. McGuiars sells an all-on-one scratch kit. It's not gonna look as good as a proper respray, but it will cost 10 times less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, your problem is that pearl is very difficult to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T11:09:38.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2013-10-11T16:06:10.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket part application databases are not always correct.  Some vehicles had production changes during a model year.  I've worked on such a vehicle, the bulb books at the parts stores were incorrect.  Well, they were correct, but only for vehicles on the other side of the production change.  The database the dealer parts departments use will have the correct information tied to the date of manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rory could be right, too. It could vary by production region instead of manufacture date.  Aftermarket databases are not always set up to model these kinds of corner cases properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T16:19:31.567" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T16:19:31.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T19:11:07.670" Score="3" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Honda Accord 2.4. My car was recently serviced and the spark plugs were replaced and the battery was replaced. I started having problem with the car not starting on cool or cold days. I then returned to my mechanic and got the new battery replaced again. I'm still having the same issue when it's cool or cold. When it doesn't start I wait a little bit and it eventually starts with a little gas. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3820" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T17:46:11.830" Title="Honda Accord 2003 Wont start on cool or cold days" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T19:20:25.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T19:51:37.600" Score="3" ViewCount="2101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just replaced the old tail lights on my 1993 Triton ute with LED ones. Now I have the issue where the indicators flash at such a high speed it may as well not be flashing at all. If I put the hazards on, they all flash, although at a faster speed than usual.&#xA;I've come to the conclusion that the flasher circuit in the old truck must somehow use the resistance of all the lights to determine flash speed and as there is still some of the old bulbs at the front, when they're all on, it works... but when it's just one side, the resistance isn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if I am correct in thinking that and if so. How would I go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:11:29.737" Title="LED tail lights flashing at ultra high speed" Tags="|electrical|lights|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2013-10-11T21:50:24.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're exactly correct in that thinking (I replaced the bulbs in my old Volvo once and it caused it to think they were out because the bulb was slightly different (these weren't even LED's; just a different filament or connector or something, I forget; no tolerance at all on that circuit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's a standard way to fix this (other than use LED's that were designed for it), but it should be easy enough to measure the resistance across the original bulbs with a multimeter and then go out and get some resistors of the correct size. If you're not using LED's designed for this, or aren't putting a resistor between the LED's and your power source anyways you're probably just going to burn the LED's out rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T21:50:24.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7360" CreationDate="2013-10-12T13:21:26.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that this caused any serious damage. The overflow tank is generally not a pressurized component of the cooling system (on some vehicles it's sealed loosely; on others, not at all). If some coolant splashed out and got on any painted components, it could have damaged the paint, but otherwise it shouldn't do any serious harm. The other possibility is that small amounts of debris got into the coolant in the overflow tank. I would just inspect it to make sure it looks clean and free of debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to flush the system and replace the coolant and you're not 100% comfortable with doing this already, I would have a professional do it (and as usual, make sure you find someone who knows what they're doing). Otherwise you're likely to do more harm than good. On most vehicles it's very hard to get all the air pockets out when refilling the cooling system from low or empty, and if you leave air pockets, you risk overheating and engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T13:21:26.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-12T15:56:44.303" Score="3" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please advise where the Comfort Relay is positioned in my car which is right-hand drive. The problem is that the windows and sunroof do not open or close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3821" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T01:39:40.687" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:38:04.103" Title="Where is the &quot;comfort relay&quot; in a BMW 1992 325i AUTO?" Tags="|electrical|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2013-10-12T18:06:52.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While wiping the dipstick -hold the index finger/thumb together, slide stick out. Now seperate the thumb/index slowly apart. If the oil (visvosity) has broke  down, it will seperate  instantly-if its GOOD, there will be a thin film between the two when seperated 1/8-1/4inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3822" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T18:06:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2013-10-12T21:07:22.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really go by the color of the oil. I do it on a 3 month schedule. At start of the year, just go through the calender and mark off a reminder around every 3 months. You should be able to find a holiday in most cases to help with reminding you. Been doing this for close to 20 years. If you have to use color to help you, then anything that has the color of molasses, it is time to do it now....not next month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:07:22.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2013-10-12T21:20:30.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it can be looked at like this: When you have a turn signal bulb go out it causes the other to blink almost twice as fast. Since LED's use much less power, then it stands to reason  that by switching to LED's you are not using the expected amount of amps to light the LED's hence, the system see's this as a burnt out bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:20:30.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7370" CreationDate="2013-10-12T21:27:23.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should try buffing the door first to ensure what you see is not just transfer from the stone. Some of the top layer paint might be missing but you also might have some of the stone on the car and that might be what you are seeing here. Pearl is extremely difficult to repair, but good thing is that being on the door and somewhat lower than the top of the door, any touch-up you do will not stand out too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:27:23.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2013-10-12T21:38:22.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brakes on your car are designed to stop and hold your car whether it is automatic transmission or manual, under what is considered normal driving circumstances. In response to the comment about neutral for towing your car, putting an automatic transmission in neutral and towing for long distance will tear up the tranny. 20 miles or less you should be okay. If all four wheels are on the ground, the drive shaft turning is also turning gears in the transmission. The gears are meant to have the pump in the transmission moving the fluid around to keep everything lubricated and cool. Without the pump working, the fluid will get to hot and cause damage to the integral parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T21:38:22.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-12T21:48:03.707" Score="3" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with the Fuel / Temp Gauge on my 2000 Civic. I just bought the vehicle second hand, it came with the original Dash Cluster and another one swapped from another civic, which included Tach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the Fuel &amp;amp; Temp Gauge, on both dash clusters are completely dead, However the Tach and Speedo work. I checked the fuse for the clusters assuming it was that simple, not knowing that one fuse is responsible for all gauges in the cluster. The Three connectors on the back of the cluster are secure. My next thought was possibly a loose wire, but I am not sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T18:22:10.030" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T11:20:21.323" Title="2000 Honda Civic Dead Fuel / Temp Gauge" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7233" CreationDate="2013-10-12T22:20:10.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not the local laws but the federal laws you have to be concerned about.1) if in an accident you, not the insurance company, can and will be held liable for any and all damage to property and persons, 2)you wont be able to get insurance for it because you made modifications that have not been properly tested, 3) you wont be able to sell the car for the same reasons and you wont be able to get it inspected in quite a few states. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T22:20:10.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T02:30:27.667" Score="3" ViewCount="20803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having bad luck searching online to find a concise fuse diagram for my Tacoma.  I am a little frustrated with the abbreviations that are on the diagram on the box cover.  In particular, I need to locate the tail lights' fuse(s) and I know it is in the second fuse box that is behind the little pocket chamber to the left of the steering wheel but all it says on the diagram are abbreviations like RR etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does have a decent fuse diagram (with full descriptions) or at least know the position of my tail light fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T14:22:35.903" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T11:54:15.510" Title="Toyota Tacoma 2007 fuse diagram" Tags="|electrical|toyota|fuse|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T17:33:01.103" Score="0" ViewCount="1459" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tools are needed to change the oil on a 2012 Honda Odyssey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3825" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T14:55:12.867" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T15:45:15.953" Title="Tools needed for oil change on 2012 Honda Odyssey?" Tags="|honda|oil-change|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7404" CreationDate="2013-10-14T01:46:29.467" Score="1" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came into possession of a 204 Jetta, in need of an unknown amount of work. I'm looking for a good forum to learn about the various vehicle parts a repair guides.  I am not very knowledgeable about this subject right now, but I am capable of learning, as I have replaced the thermostat and water pump on an 05 ford ranger. I've already hooked up the vehicle to an obd2 reader and determined that the engine is throwing a few codes, so I know that there is going to need to be SOME amount of work. Can anyone recommend a good source of information for a beginning mechanic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3826" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T17:42:32.860" Title="Jetta repair forum" Tags="|vw|diesel|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-11-21T08:48:05.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2013-10-14T14:25:19.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools needed to change the oil on a 2012 Honda Odyssey would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil filter wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil drain washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drain pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;car ramps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OW-20 oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:25:19.833" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-14T14:25:19.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-14T18:05:13.770" Score="2" ViewCount="3563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota Rav4 with about 130k miles on it which, after the other day, will no longer start. I drove it to the store, and while stopped, idling at a stoplight on the way home, the engine just shut off, without making any weird noises. After that, it will no longer start. I can hear the starter motor whining, but the engine doesn't turn over at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it towed to a mechanic (not the one I regularly go to, but just the closest one), who says he checked the easy things (starter, battery, etc.), and is now saying that he thinks it must be a broken timing chain because other than that he's out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very skeptical, however. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7690/~/does-my-vehicle-have-a-timing-belt-or-timing-chain%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Toyota website&lt;/a&gt;, this car has a timing &lt;strong&gt;chain&lt;/strong&gt; instead of a timing &lt;strong&gt;belt&lt;/strong&gt;, and as such it &lt;a href=&quot;http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7679/related/1/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMzgxNzczNTkyL3NpZC9BUDM3T05DbA%3D%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;should &quot;never&quot; need to be replaced&lt;/a&gt;. Not only that, but I'm assuming that, being made of metal, and being surrounded by other things made of metal, if the timing chain really had broken it would have made some very audible noise, which I didn't hear. I suspect that some sort of electrical problem is far more likely than the timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; It ended up being that one my engine valves is pretty bent/mangled - the compression test was the right idea. I suppose the last part of this question is, being that my mechanic doesn't have a good idea, what would cause a valve to be bent while idling? Should I be looking for some other problem which caused this to happen, or was it most likely just a fluke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastEditorUserId="3346" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T18:48:26.077" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T13:10:09.203" Title="2005 Toyota Rav4 Won't Start" Tags="|toyota|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-14T19:31:51.540" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of side marker lamps for my car (OEM p/n 26160-JK00B). They are compatible with Nissan MO/Infinity.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJQUg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ANLz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Connector view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XS4f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Nissan Murano 2009 (US model) which doesn't come by default with these flashers so I have to install them by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original headlamp harness doesn't come with connectors for these side marker lamps so I have to wire myself this thing (a wire extension from the front headlight - the turn lamp - to this side marker lamp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the question is: what connector should I buy/use in order to connect this lamp properly? Of course I can crimp two &lt;a href=&quot;http://snag.gy/xzlta.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;female spade connectors&lt;/a&gt; and then to hook them to the lamp but I would opt for a waterproof connector that fits, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe someone, a handy auto electrician - anyone, has a clue about what could possible fit into that socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3834" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T21:26:10.643" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:48:26.017" Title="Do you recognize this connector?" Tags="|nissan|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2013-10-14T21:27:53.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be able to get the pigtail from the dealer. It's the connector and about 12 inches of wire. They are used to repair harnesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:27:53.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T09:51:23.907" Score="2" ViewCount="3065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my 2004 ford escape 4x4 v6 for nearly 7 years now since my dad gave it to me. I am not a very technical guy when it comes to car maintenance but I see to it that it is always tuned-up and changed oil every 5000km or so. But this past week I noticed on my garage floor that there is a puddle of brown gooey liquid accumulating so I decided to check my engine. Low and behold I found out that my coolant on my reserve tank has turned brown and very gooey like it was mixed with oil and now everytime I turn off my engine it would overflow through the overflow pipe at the top of the coolant container. Can anybody guess what type of problem my car has before I go to my repair guy so I would not get ripped off. A friend suggested that I might have a leak in my radiator that is why oil is mixing with my coolant. Btw I am not experiencing any overheating. Any help or comment would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3836" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T15:05:28.577" Title="2004 Ford Escape Reserve Coolant mixed with oil" Tags="|oil|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7401" CreationDate="2013-10-15T15:05:28.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil in the coolant or vice versa is usually a sign of a failed head gasket and/or a cracked/warped head.  Other symptoms include white exhaust (when not caused by low temperatures, obviously), exhaust gas in the coolant (causing bubbling in the coolant or &quot;burping&quot; of coolant into the expansion tank), and a high/fluctuating temperature gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual means of testing is to take a combustion leak detector (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NPDL76&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;) to the radiator.  You take the radiator cap off, put the tester there, and suck in some of the air there.  If the fluid changes colour, there's combustion gas in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Gabriel Mongeon suggests, a transmission cooler leak is another possibility.  If this vehicle has an automatic transmission, it would have a transmission cooler, which could be another source of the contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T15:05:28.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T18:24:18.143" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I have a leak in my radiator because water came pouring out from under my car mazda 6s 2002. The only thing is when I opened my coolant cap it was still full. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3840" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T23:19:34.750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T23:19:34.750" Title="Radiator and coolant ports" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7394" CreationDate="2013-10-15T20:36:10.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as general mechanic info there's a ton of good information on here, and all over the web. I've found a lot of instructional YouTube videos on many of the things I've done myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Jetta specific information there's a good group of people over at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VW Vortex forums&lt;/a&gt; that can probably help you figure out anything you'd need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the VW cars will require a special diagnostic tool in order to set/change codes in the computer on the vehicle. If you're looking to be able to get some solid diagnostics out of your vehicle I'd highly recommend looking into a Ross-tech cable. They're available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://ross-tech.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ross-tech.com/&lt;/a&gt;. There are knockoff cables on Ebay for much cheaper, but from what I've read they're very hit or miss with the ross-tech software. I've actually used my VCDS table to do a number of non-standard modifications, such as turning off seatbelt chimes and changing how the headlights turn on when the vehicle is unlocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a good idea for anyone that wants to do their own repairs is to get a user repair manual for you vehicle. I know for some of the VW models Bently makes repair manuals you can buy, but I think most late model versions will be on their website, which you have to buy a subscription for. It looks like you might be able to just purchase the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-golf-jetta-gti-99-05-lpv800.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2005 Jetta manual though&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1424" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T20:36:10.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T12:27:25.710" Score="3" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;No reverse lights. Complete diagnostics reveal; good Fuses, good blubs, good continuity, good reverse light switch. The switch was checked two ways: 1. jumped out with a piece of wire between connection contacts (lights work) 2. remove switch from transmission and physically depress actuator (lights work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspect some slight changes to Transmission (shifts fine) recently; replaced UJoints in drive shaft, replaced center mount bearing, topped off manual transmission fluid. This beauty has 202K &quot;cared for&quot; mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I sense that the switch must now travel slightly further into the transmission to facilitate actuation. Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOUIS &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3842" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T15:05:27.157" Title="1999 GMC Sonoma 2.2L, 5spd, SLS - no reverse lights, suspect transmission" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7405" CreationDate="2013-10-16T15:02:16.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try a replacement switch if available cheaply/easily. I find it hard to believe the transmission wore out the mechanism to depress the reverse switch, and more likely that the switch is faulty in some fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But otherwise the indication is the physical connection of the switch to the reverse mechanism in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:02:16.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7376" CreationDate="2013-10-16T15:11:29.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are LED bulbs with ballast, or you can purchase ballast separately to keep flasher units happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php#turnsignal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php#turnsignal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:11:29.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T20:00:23.277" Score="5" ViewCount="37427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new radio (Clarion cx501) for my 2005 Mazda 3. I bought a special wiring harness to make the installation easier. I have two wires that I'm not sure if I must connect. They look like the same thing, and they have the same color -- plain blue -- but they don't have the same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My radio calls it &quot;auto antenna lead&quot;, but the wiring harness calls it &quot;power antenna&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the same thing? Should I connect them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3849" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T21:34:54.687" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T18:02:52.423" Title="Should I connect the &quot;power antenna&quot; wire to the &quot;auto antenna&quot; wire?" Tags="|mazda|audio|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2013-10-16T22:44:18.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace fuses that go to computer shutdown, #11 &amp;amp;14 I think. Or re-seat all fuses in the fuse box under the hood. The spades on the fuses build up a thin corrosion that gives a voltage drop.[they got me for $1200] new computer and new plugs in my 2006 300c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3850" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T22:44:18.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-17T06:51:51.970" Score="2" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had waterpump replaced and belts, but the reservoir keeps running out of water in traffic but seems okay on open road, mechanic has had a look and no visible leaks and checked gaskets and all okay. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-10-17T08:32:57.593" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T23:36:20.610" Title="VW Golf TDI 2007 Coolant Leak" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7414" CreationDate="2013-10-17T07:59:34.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hoses may not be sealing properly. When you're in traffic, your car gets about 20% hotter than on the open road, so the extra pressure caused by trapped steam (or hot air at any rate) may be forcing the water out of a leak that is invisible at lower temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least, that's what I found with my Astra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T07:59:34.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7414" CreationDate="2013-10-18T00:05:30.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many times have you refilled the reservoir? It is possible that air was trapped in the system after the water pump replacement. After a couple of high speed runs the air may have worked its way out of the cooling system and into the reservoir. Some vehicles are more difficult to &quot;burp then others. If you have filled it more than 2-3 times you have a leak. Ask your mechanic to test the radiator for the presence of combustion gasses which will indicate a bad head gasket. Did he do a pressure test of the cooling system or just look for drips? If doing a pressure test make sure to check the heater core as drip from it may stay in the heater box and not reach the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T00:05:30.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7420" CreationDate="2013-10-18T02:36:15.807" Score="15" ViewCount="73921" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many discussions regarding steel vs. alloy wheels in Winter on multiple forums. It would be good if someone could &lt;strong&gt;lay out full facts and help scale these differences (questions below)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Steel wheels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uniform and made mostly of stamped steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May bend from potholes or any collisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rusts if the paint layer wears off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Alloy wheels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mostly cast aluminum alloys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More sturdy through potholes, will crack and break on hard collisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salt will wear off the alloy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better looks and choice in design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The key questions are as follows. Please remember we are talking about a winter in Montreal, QC, meaning lots of potholes and salt on the roads in addition to parking in a heated garage at night:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a noticeable difference in handling due to the added weight&#xA;of steel wheels? (seems to be 5-10 lbs more per wheel, ignore the salt and potholes for now) (scaling safety and performance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there safety concerns due to the potential bending of the steel wheels or are minor impacts from pothole too minor to be a concern? I.e.: During an accident, would the wheel type be a factor in the amount of damage to the rest of the car parts? (scaling safety)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would winter and salt do more damage to steel or alloy wheels? In what ways, quantify the amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the best long term value given that steel wheels may bend while both types may get salt damage and require replacement/repairs? (scaling costs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question 1: Is there a noticeable difference in performance and safety of lighter and higher performance alloy wheels compared to standard ones. (E.g.: Enkei Performance or Tuning Series to unbranded alloys)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question 2: Are there pre-treatments to steel wheels that would help prolong its lifespan by reducing the occurrence of rust? Assuming the steel wheels come painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you! I hope we could get answers, facts and discussions of the same quality as other Stack Exchange sites!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Information:&lt;/strong&gt; I forgot to mention it will be for the second set of wheels dedicated to Winter Tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3853" LastEditorUserId="3853" LastEditDate="2021-03-27T02:18:21.770" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T02:18:21.770" Title="Differences and Recommendation between Steel and Alloy Wheels for Winter?" Tags="|tires|wheels|performance|safety|winter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2013-10-18T12:41:51.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a noticeable difference in handling due to the added weight of steel wheels? (seems to be 5-10 lbs more per wheel, ignore the salt&#xA;and potholes for now) (scaling safety and performance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  Assuming that your steel wheels are heavier than your alloy wheels (which might or might not be true), you'll be facing an increase in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unsprung weight&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotational_inertia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotational intertia&lt;/a&gt;.  Your handling will be somewhat affected and you won't be as quick to accelerate or to brake.  More specifics are required for a complete analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there safety concerns due to the potential bending of the steel&#xA;wheels or are minor impacts from pothole too minor to be a concern?&#xA;I.e.: During an accident, would the wheel type be a factor in the&#xA;amount of damage to the rest of the car parts? (scaling safety)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bend a wheel, it won't work as well.  If you run into another car, it's unlikely that your wheel choice is going to matter: the frame, body and crumple sections dominate that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would winter and salt do more damage to steel or alloy wheels? In what&#xA;ways, quantify the amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends.  A steel wheel will rust wherever there isn't paint.  An alloy wheel might be affected by salt to varying degrees.  The specifics of the allow are required to decide how much of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide#Properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protective oxidation&lt;/a&gt; layer might form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best long term value given that steel wheels may bend&#xA;while both types may get salt damage and require replacement/repairs?&#xA;(scaling costs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends.  Can you afford two sets of tires and two sets of wheels, allowing you to switch for winter and summer?  That's the best bet.  If not, are you willing to replace or tolerate bent and rusted wheels for a while before spending money on them?  If not, steel wheels might not be for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question 1: Is there a noticeable difference in performance and&#xA;safety of lighter and higher performance alloy wheels compared to&#xA;standard ones. (E.g.: Enkei Performance or Tuning Series to unbranded&#xA;alloys)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the driver, the vehicle and the environment.  Are you on a track driving at speed?  If not, it's going to be more difficult to perceive the difference.  Are you driving in a rough road environment?  If so, you should purchase more robust wheels or there will be tears when you break a hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question 2: Are there pre-treatments to steel wheels that would&#xA;help prolong its lifespan by reducing the occurrence of rust? Assuming&#xA;the steel wheels come painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes: paint and more paint.  Keep the salt away from the metal and the metal will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What I do:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a region that gets salted when it snows but we generally have fairly mild winters (barring the odd hurricane, nor'easter or blizzard).  I'm still running with the stock allows that came with my car.  If I had the cash, I'd pay for some nice summer wheels, get summer tires for them and keep snow tires on the stock alloys (but I don't so I won't).  I've never even considered getting steel wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Updated some years later:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite some time after this answer, I managed to put the cash together for another set of wheels and tires. What I do now is the other option: I use my aging stock alloys as the wheels for my winter tires (they haven't been pretty for a long time so winter grime doesn't make me sad) and I have a pretty set of wheels with dedicated summer tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: I almost never need the winter tires for serious snow. Climate change where I live has caused some significant differences in snowfall so it just doesn't get all that wintery around here. That said, my summer tires are terrifying in anything like slush, snow or ice. With the winters, I never have a concern and, when the rare deep snow does show up, I'm happily kicking up four rooster tails wherever I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, mac is right: the winter tires do not have the dry grip that the summer tires do. They can't: the combination of tire compound (for lower temperatures) and tread block design (they have sipes to dig into the snow) means that they have less overall grip and, at the limit, things feel much more sketchy. However, I'm a Dad and I like having a vehicle that I know that I can count on to get me through a winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I still don't have steel wheels and, if I did bend one of my ancient OEM wheels on one of our horrifying winter potholes, I wouldn't get any. I don't like the certainty of rust combined with the fact that I don't like their looks. I'd rather get a lower priced replacement alloy wheel (or set) and enjoy my car's winter shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T14:45:14.673" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T14:45:14.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7211" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:52:00.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mystery noise was tracked to the transfer case. Even without a load on the car, the noise could be heard coming from the case box when the car was up on a lift and shifted into drive. I'm not sure that I would have figured this out if I hadn't had a mechanic put it on a lift... the alternative would have been to get it up on multiple jacks and craw under it (and I'm not sure that I trust no-name jacks that much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't opened up the case yet, and the mechanic just wants to do a full replacement (as opposed to attempting to repair it.) I suspect that when or if I do, I'm going to find a bunch of broken teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:52:00.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2013-10-18T14:31:27.283" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob cross makes some good points, however, I would offer the following opinions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winter tires don't have the dry grip that summer tires do. Your &quot;high performance&quot; handling will be limited with your winter tires on. Therefore, I wouldn't be too concerned about the incremental difference in handling due to the difference in unsprung weight between steel and alloy wheels. So while Bob Cross is absolutely correct that lighter wheels do handle and ride better, it may not be worth it to spend the additional money for lighter wheels &lt;em&gt;for your winter tires&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In terms of resistance to bending when you hit potholes, any wheel can be damaged when driven through potholes. The best protection is to pick a wheel/tire combination with a reasonably tall sidewall, keep the tires properly inflated, and avoid driving through potholes! With winter tires, I generally choose a smaller wheel diameter and taller tire sidewall than for my summer tires. This affords me more protection from pothole damage, and I enjoy the softer ride in the winter months. Again, high-speed dry cornering won't be great with winter tires, so I see no point in buying big wheels and low profile snows. As far as your steel/alloy choice goes, resistance to damage from potholes wouldn't play into my calculus. Steel wheels are also easy to repair should they get bent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In terms of salt damage resistance, Bob is again correct that either wheel type can be damaged by salt exposure. I would add that with a steel wheel it's really easy at the end of the winter season to quickly wire-brush off any flaking paint and rust, then touch up the wheel with a can of spray paint. Its easier to match the (typically flat) paint on a steel wheel than to do a high-quality touch up of a glossy painted alloy. The steel wheels may develop rust spots more often than you'd notice chipped paint/salt damage on an alloy, but its just so easy to touch up the steel wheels. With my alloy wheels, I give them a good washing and a coat of good hard wax at the end of the season, which really increases its resistance to salt damage (and brake dust staining for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's how I think about the steel/alloy choice for winter wheels: It's boils down to almost purely an aesthetic question. Do you like the looks of the alloys better? If so, how much are you willing to pay for that? I've had both types, both are fine choices. Where I grew up, we had long winters, so we had to look at our cars with the winter wheels on for quite a while. This may have pushed us in the alloy direction a bit more. However, I also think some cars can look great with a set of black steel wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't agonize over the decision, instead, congratulate yourself for making a great choice about buying a second set of wheels and dedicated winter tires. Its the single best thing you can do for winter driving safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T14:31:27.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7426" CreationDate="2013-10-19T00:34:09.640" Score="15" ViewCount="276240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a '96 Toyota Camry about a month ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first turn the car on and the engine is cold, I can have the car stopped (in gear) and it will not shake. The idle RPMs will be at 1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the car has heated up, I notice the idle RPM drop by about 250, and the steering wheel/car begin to rumble and shake. If I keep my foot on the brake and then tap the gas just enough to raise the RPMs back to 1000, the shaking stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In neutral or park (it's an automatic vehicle) the shaking diminishes but the RPMs do not rise from 750.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told the car had good even compression in the cylinders when I bought it from the dude, but you never know. Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3859" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T20:06:35.480" Title="Car shakes when in gear at red light" Tags="|engine|transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-19T04:10:34.940" Score="2" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 PT Cruiser just flashed the internal battery light.  I was able to drive home, but I noticed that the LED lights on the clock were flickering.  I played with the RPM of the motor a bit(manual transmission) and did not see a change.  It Seemed to bounce with the roughness of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of miles on this car, and it would not suprise me if it was the alternator.  I just got a new battery this summer.  However, it is acting like a loose connection.  How could I tell?  I don't want to spend the bucks if I can just tighten a connection somewhere and solve it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3860" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T16:43:46.170" Title="Flickering lights and volt light on 2004 PT Cruiser" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2013-10-19T17:43:20.800" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggested maintenance on a timing belt is 60k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3861" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T12:05:50.873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T12:05:50.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7534" CreationDate="2013-10-19T20:24:21.857" Score="5" ViewCount="11010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my car has what it seems to be significant differential play. I have a 1993 Acura Integra with automatic transmission. What I mean by play is simple: say I jack up only one front wheel and leave the other one on the ground. Then I can turn the wheel that is in the air probably close to 20 degrees without significant resistance. There is no noticeable backlash between the wheel and the axle and also no bearing noise. I can also replicate this by going under the car and turning the axle by hand, with identical results. I am guessing this backlash is coming from the differential, but I really don't know enough about the inside of automatic transmissions to be confident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is twofold: what amount of backlash is normal in an automatic transmission/differential and at what point should I get worried? Second, what are the most likely reasons for too much backlash and are there any (relatively) easy things to try and fix it before opening the transmission up for an overhaul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that all the above applies when the transmission is in park. The other symptoms that might be related and make me worry that this is excessive play are a slight clunk when changing into drive/reverse and also a slight readjustment (sliding forward or backward) after putting the car in park, shutting the engine and releasing the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T17:20:52.817" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T17:49:02.110" Title="Automatic Transmission or Differential Backlash (Play)" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2013-10-19T20:47:45.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar problem and haven't been able to figure it out yet, but here are the things I have tried and plan to try in the future. Some have helped marginally, some not at all, but they might work great in your case. If I left anything out, I'd love feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing to check is the engine and transmission mounts. If the engine shakes they are likely bad and need replacing  (regardless of whether they are the cause or just a symptom) and that might fix your problem right there. An easy way to check the mounts is to have someone run the car while you're watching the engine with the hood open. Have the person rev the engine up and change between gears. If the engine jumps up and down at any of these actions one or more mounts is broken and needs fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, make sure your computer is not throwing any codes. If it is, this could save you a LOT of time. This case is usually hard to miss since it is (at least on my car) always accompanied by a check engine light on the dash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark problems: check your spark plugs or just outright replace them. Check your spark plug wires for resistance below 20KOhm and check for spark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the compression in the cylinders yourself, unless you trust the previous owner. No real reason to do all other hard work if this test fails. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty injectors/fuel system: try fuel system cleaners, see if that makes a difference. If it does, but not enough, you might need to do more serious work on the fuel line and injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty/bad air intake components. Clean your throttle body, valves (especially the IAC), someone even suggested a full scrub of the whole intake manifold, something that is probably worth it anyway if you have the time (this is one of the things I plan on doing soon). Also check for vacuum leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the ripple voltage that's coming from the alternator. Use the AC setting on a multimeter across the battery to do this while the engine is running (do NOT disconnect you battery while the car is running though!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the bearings that the various belts run over. I don't know how to do this other than listen to the bearings, but it makes sense that a bad bearing could put uneven load on the engine, especially at low RPM, and throw things out of whack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and let us know what you find!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T19:55:07.430" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T19:55:07.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7436" CreationDate="2013-10-20T05:21:13.473" Score="15" ViewCount="99197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My A/C system has a leak in it and my compressor is making an awful noise: probably needs replacing. Winter is coming though, and I really don't want to spend any time or money on tracking down leaks and converting to 134a and all that jazz. What I want is the simplest way to make the compressor stop spinning when the engine is on. Can I just cut/remove the belt? Could that have negative side effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor is on a belt by itself. It's the only reason I would consider removing the belt completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are there any significant advantages or disadvantages to removing a non-functioning A/C system entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:37:54.580" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T14:23:17.027" Title="Easiest way to disable the A/C compressor" Tags="|ac|belt|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-20T10:55:02.137" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;All,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2010 prius that has Europe standards (Kilometer odometer) not mile, and it doesn't have the button &quot;Mpg/KL&quot; to reset the oil change light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work for such edition? is it the saem way of the US edition? I tried US edition by pressing on &quot;trip&quot; button instead, but didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Basil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T15:39:08.237" Title="Prius 2010 oil reset (Europe edition not US edition)" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7433" CreationDate="2013-10-20T11:02:46.150" Score="2" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other time I asked my mechanic, are my tires about needing to be changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said, naw, another 8000 miles. After driving 7000 miles, I asked another mechanic who again said, long way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does hyper-miling reduce the stress on the treads of my tires and ultimately the question - does hypermiling reduce the stress on engine oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I included the description of my tires to illustrate the possible effects of hypermiling. I have a manual stick-shift. I don't hypermile compulsively like hybrid car drivers. I hypermile by giving adequate distance between myself and the truck/car in front of me to allow me to slow down. I accelerate gradually. I cruise to red traffic lights. And I do drive a lot across states to get 40 - 45 mpg out of a stick-shift Honda Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after 7000 miles, my engine oil is still viscous and golden in colour but a little dirtier. Could I say that the molecular integrity of my engine oil can be correlated to its viscosity and goldenness? Should I change the engine oil as the mechanic recommends (so he could earn the $40 minus the oil) or should I wait till the oil has lost most of its golden-ness and viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, I used to have an automatic Ford Escort whose oil would turn completely dark and watery after 5000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the science behind the degradation of engine oil that refutes or supports my correlating viscosity/colour to its lubrication integrity?&#xA;Do you think hypermiling reduces stress on my engine and engine oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to add that I am using normal non-synthetic oil. And my car doesn't have air-cond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T00:36:42.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T00:36:42.700" Title="Hyper-miling and stress on engine oil" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7431" CreationDate="2013-10-20T15:38:58.367" Score="0" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch pedal in my 2001 Honda S2000 (applies to other cars as well) is very sticky and sometimes squeaky, how do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T15:38:58.367" Title="How to fix a sticky / squeaky clutch pedal" Tags="|honda|clutch|s2000|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7430" CreationDate="2013-10-20T15:38:58.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good walkthrough can be found on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/370792-sticky-rough-squeaky-clutch-pedal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt;. It is summarized below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the two bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the side of&#xA;the transmisison housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the boot and cylinder rod from the slave cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to see if the top of the cylinder rod is rough or has been worn down at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it has, polish it to a fine finish and grind down the nipple at the top if one exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean out the cup and release fork in the slave cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply high temperature grease to the cup / release fork and to the ball end of the rod.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble the whole thing and then pump the clutch a few times to spread the grease around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this will be helpful for others. The original forum post from which this answer was mostly copied contains pictures if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T15:38:58.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7403" CreationDate="2013-10-20T19:19:50.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the A/C running prior to this? It could be condensation from the A/C. Coolant tends to be pretty green and smelly so you'd have little trouble mistaking it for water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option, as mentioned by mikes, is that you have a hole in your windshield cleaner bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T19:19:50.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7429" CreationDate="2013-10-21T03:56:00.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert on the subject so I'd take this with a grain of salt, but here's the thing with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common belief is that when your oil starts to go darker then it's time for a change, but that isn't exactly true, as it actually means that the oil has been doing its secondary job of removing particles and dirt from the combustion chamber and suspended it within itself (which is later filtered through the oil filter before reentering the chamber). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the oil maintains a more natural color just means that it is picking up less dirt as it travels through the engine, which could just mean the air filter in the new car is better than the one on the Ford Escort, thus less dirt is coming into the engine in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the hyper-miling, it is likely that the more you do it, the less dirt comes into the engine as engine only rotates because of the transmission being hooked up to the wheels rotating in the ground, but [probably] no gas consumption is actually occurring and less explosions in the chamber are leaving even less residues behind, although I doubt that with your way of driving hyper-miling is making an actual difference in the oil. I think the engine of the new car is just better, filtering air better and creating a cleaner burn inside the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3865" LastEditorUserId="1865" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T05:49:07.297" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T05:49:07.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2013-10-21T04:09:55.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @vlsd did cover most of the options but to expand a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold it has a lower fuel efficiency because is harder to burn the fuel (to illustrate... is easier to burn something up in a closed chamber in hell than in an artic pole), that's why your engine revs drop when you're at a red light, that's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing with the shaking I think could be mainly by options 1 and 3 in @vlsd answer, although I'd check them in the inverse order, checking the mounts of the engine and transmission is significantly harder than just checking the spark plugs (although the mounts is a more likely reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is said (and I have not many reasons to agree or disagree with this) that stopping your car and leaving it in a gear might loosen the mounts over the years, which makes some sense on its own... but then again, engine vibrations aren't necessarily reduced when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3865" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T04:09:55.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8702" CreationDate="2013-10-21T04:33:00.123" Score="6" ViewCount="149143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my car is consuming much more fuel than it should, I've compared it to other versions of the same model which have more powerful engines and mine seems to be on the higher end when is supposed to have the most economic engine of all. I have a Toyota Altezza (which is exactly the same as the Lexus IS200), it comes with a 1G-FE engine, which should be more economic than the 3S-GE and the 2JZ engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the air filter (the air filter is a cleanable one, not just dedusting a replaceable filter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the spark plugs (got the original Iridium replacement part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the original wheels and use the tires sizing and air-pressure specified by the manufacturer 215/45/17 @ 34 pounds (2.3). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All my engine indicators on the dashboard are off and the BSOD check showed no error code (they all turn on when I engage the switch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't (usually) drive at high-accelerations/high-speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what else can I check on my engine that might lead to a poor fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; some time ago I had my engine serviced and they left the air sensor that goes after the intake filter unplugged and this didn't turn the check-engine indicator on, I didn't give it a BSOD check during the time the sensor was disconnected though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting around 22 MPG when I should be getting around 35... the 2JZ which is the most fuel-hungry version has 20-25 (in cars with similar mileage), I got the car like 6 months ago and is always been like that, the previous owner and the mechanics I took it to said the engine hasn't been mod (and knowing a bit on the subject as well, I think so too). The Altezza is produced for the Japanese Market (with high standards though) so all the average consumption I've inferred on how much all the other stock cars in my team consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3865" LastEditorUserId="3865" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T21:39:21.413" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T15:57:31.707" Title="What to check if fuel consumption is too high?" Tags="|toyota|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2013-10-21T06:34:03.083" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the compressor is on a belt by itself, you don't want to remove the belt.  Water pumps, alternators and power steering are nice things to have.  An A/C delete/bypass pulley for your application would be a way to go, but it will involve pulling the compressor.  Probably the easiest thing to do is locate the appropriate relay and pull it.  If it's the compressor making the noise and not the pulley/clutch, that should work.  Otherwise it's pulley time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compressor is on a belt by itself, I guess you could remove the belt.  I would still look for the relay and pull it, though.  If it was my car, I wouldn't want to drive it long term without putting the delete pulley on.  I would be worried the belt off situation was a corner case the engineers didn't worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that whatever leaks you have now are possibly going to multiply if you leave the system unpressurized for an extended period.  Also, the compressor is engaged intermittently when you turn on the defroster to dry the air.  If your windshield fogs up it will take longer to clear without the compressor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T20:30:50.520" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T20:30:50.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2013-10-21T07:54:34.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a pipe on the handle of the standard wrench and jumped on it.  I thought I was turning the nut, but I snapped the wrench (1/2 inch diam handle). Then I tried better wrenches, without success.  I put the other nuts back on gently and drove about 4 miles. That did it. But if you have a flat tire its not a solution!  Maybe if you drove 30 feet on the flat that would loosen the nut without harming the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3866" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T07:54:34.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7429" CreationDate="2013-10-21T14:02:51.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the driving style that you described certainly places less stress on both tires and engine oil. You avoid hard braking and hard acceleration. This puts less wear on the tires than someone who brakes and accelerates hard. End of story. By avoiding hard acceleration, you put less heat into your engine than someone who accelerates at full throttle, which could potentially slow the degradation of the engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your tires, it is very simple to determine when they need to be replaced by measuring the remaining tread depth. With the engine oil, it's not as simple. The &quot;clean&quot; appearance of the oil does not necessarily mean that the oil is &quot;fresh.&quot; If you really needed to know the condition of your used oil, you could take a sample and send it out for oil analysis. This will give you the information you need to determine whether the oil can safely be used beyond the manufacturer's recommended change interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's seldom worthwhile to stretch oil change intervals. An oil change is cheap insurance against larger engine problems. One can get VERY technical about oils, debating the merits of synthetic vs. conventional, one brand vs. another, etc.; but the simple mantra holds true: new oil is better than old oil, which is better than no oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T14:02:51.550" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7423" CreationDate="2013-10-21T14:09:03.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a very simple check of your alternator by simply measuring the voltage across the battery terminals with the car running. A good alternator would put you somewhere around 14 volts. While performing this check, you should examine the condition of the connections at the battery terminals, as well as the large ground strap from the battery negative to something metal on your engine/frame, and the connection from the alternator to the battery. Look for loose or corroded connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thorough test of your alternator can be done at your local auto parts store, if you bring them the bare alternator. It's a good idea to have them do such a check before you shell out the money for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T14:09:03.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9305" CreationDate="2013-10-21T14:24:19.497" Score="4" ViewCount="3841" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake fluid reservoir level drops very fast in my 2007 4WD V6 Toyota Tacoma, probably within 3-5 days of filling it up.  The funny thing is, it drops to just below where it says minimum but not further down, which makes me exclude the possibility of brake lines leaking somewhere downstream in the system and suspect that the problem is that the reservoir itself has a leak very near the top which causes this initial level drop.  The brakes work fine but this causes the brake light to be on all the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if replacing the reservoir will involve draining and bleeding out the whole system.  Or can I just pump some out the top to below where the reservoir is mounted, replace and refill it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;  I noticed that the master cylinder fluid tank is mounted onto a drumlike device (what is this called?), which, I assume transitions and adapts the pedal motion to the cylinder.  Does the liquid from the tank go into that drum as well?  Because if it does, it could be that the drum is leaking somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T18:45:58.767" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T23:36:50.490" Title="Brake fluid reservoir level drops fast to minimum but not below" Tags="|brakes|toyota|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2013-10-21T18:00:45.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting the belt will solve your problem as long as the belt doesn't drive any other component. If it's making noise all the time you likely only need to replace the pulley, which &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be cost effective. Sometimes it cheaper to replace the the compressor/pulley/clutch combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T18:00:45.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2013-10-21T20:40:56.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much worse is the fuel usage you are experiencing? Have you talked to any other owners to see if you are getting way below their mileage? How did your last car perform compared to listed fuel mileage ratings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the U.S., the government posts the results of required fuel mileage tests. Most of the people I have talked to do not get the same fuel mileage as the test cars do. Some say the city mileage is worse than expected, and some say the highway mileage is better. Of course, this is anecdotal evidence, because no one drives the exact same way everyday. In addition, the government tests are performed under laboratory conditions, while for individuals there are many other variables, such as: the weight of the car (1/4 of a tank of fuel vs. a full tank), traffic, how long you idled at a red light, how many hills you climb, etc. The best you can get is a long term average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area we use an ethanol blended gasoline. On a recent trip I noticed a 10% increase in mileage when the fuel I purchased was not an ethanol blend.  While all the things that you have checked will have an effect on fuel usage, the biggest influence is the driver.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="3873" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T20:13:39.077" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T20:13:39.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1494" CreationDate="2013-10-22T01:52:27.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher octane fuels allow the compression ratio of the engine to be higher, and the higher the compression ratio, the more efficient the engine - this is the principle behind diesel engines, in fact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the compression ratio of most engines is not allowed to change significantly, so if your engine has a 10:1 compression ratio, you will NOT get better fuel economy with a higher octane fuel - the compression ratio is already set, and it is this parameter which affects efficiency. The exact same engine using a 13:1 compression ratio for instance WILL be more efficient, but it will require higher octane fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, lower compression ratio engines will have a lower efficiency, but they can use lower octane fuels which are cheaper. High compression ratio engines will be more efficient, but they require higher octane fuels which are more expensive. Make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3869" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T01:52:27.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7447" CreationDate="2013-10-22T07:28:02.270" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car: Toyota Camry 1994 LE, 4 cyl, 4 door sedan, automatic 127000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It failed the MD state inspection and following repairs are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering pump leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering pressure line leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering supply line from reservoir leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left front lower control arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver wiper blade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motor mount (dogbone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a local FireStone quote of $562.93 for parts and $885.90 for labor. I also visited two other repair shop both names start with MANIK. One gave a full quote of $850 (parts + labor) and another $450 (parts + labor). Another local shop gave me a full estimate of $600-700 (parts + labor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to decide. My ZIP is 21227.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T07:56:12.683" Title="Compare repair quotes" Tags="|toyota|power-steering|repair|camry|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-24T10:26:56.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7446" CreationDate="2013-10-22T07:56:12.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual things to look at are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are they using factory parts, or aftermarket?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what type of warranty are they offering?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what qualifications or experience do their mechanics have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can make a great deal of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I always go with factory parts, and factory trained mechanics - it is more expensive, but the warranty on parts and labour is worth it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T07:56:12.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2013-10-22T12:45:39.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are right on track.   Taking a look a Fuelly there are 5 other Altezza owners and they all seem to be getting about the same MPG as you do:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/altezza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/altezza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T12:45:39.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7890" CreationDate="2013-10-22T13:08:59.397" Score="1" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has had an intermittent starting problem with moisture since the beginning of this year. When it rains, it's either very difficult to start or it won't start at all.  I was planning on figuring this issue out over the winter (&lt;strong&gt;This isn't the current issue I'm trying to resolve&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One morning, it rained fairly bad. I tried to start it and it would not start. After I let off the key, the car would continue to run. The mistake I made, was that one of those times, &lt;strong&gt;I tried to immediately start it again while it was continuing to run.&lt;/strong&gt; The starter sounded worn out after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I thought I had messed up the starter, I was okay with this since I was going to rebuild it come winter time anyway. I was leaving the gym one day and came to an intersection, turned the wheel and began to make a turn. I heard a very loud clunk and the car started a roaring type sound that got worse the higher the RPMs got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a starter or flexplate issue? The sound is present when starting and driving. I can get a video, it's pretty horrifying sounding. Car doesn't seem to have any present issues starting under normal conditions. (Except the sound)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Car is an automatic, updated flywheel to flexplate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;I went to go make a video today, however the roaring sound did not occur! The starter made the sound you'd expect to hear from a dying starter, but then a second later, it started, with no roaring sound at all! I'm dropping the starter tomorrow and taking it into a speciality shop for it to be tested!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastEditorUserId="3558" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T00:57:47.320" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:51:18.897" Title="Roaring sound when starting or running with my 95 LT1 Camaro Z28" Tags="|chevrolet|starter|lt1|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7449" CreationDate="2013-10-22T16:10:05.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't sound like a flex plate or starter issue based on your description. A video would help to identify the sound. Does anything make the sound better or worse? Does it do it all the time? From under the hood where does it sound like the sound is coming from? You can use a mechanical stethoscope or a long screwdriver to find the location of the noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the screwdriver method take a long screwdriver and touch it to different parts of the engine while putting you ear against the handle end of the screwdriver. Be careful not to get the screwdriver caught in any moving parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to narrow down where the noise is coming from is to remove the belt and see if the noise goes away. (Note for other readers the water pump on this vehicle is not turned by the belt so removing the belt won't affect engine cooling. If you try this on another car where the water pump is turned by the belt don't run the engine more than about 30 seconds with the belt disconnected.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just FYI on the difficult to start when it rains, it's the opti-spark (the distributor) this is a known issue. You can try replacing just the cap and rotor but I haven't had good success with that. It takes the whole thing most of the time, and since replacing even the cap and rotor requires removal of the water pump I generally replace the whole thing to save the hassle of having to do the job twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:10:05.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-22T18:58:53.453" Score="2" ViewCount="1826" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2005 Chevy Cobalt front speakers went silent (ones in the back still work fine). What could be the reason and what's the best way to fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T20:53:16.257" Title="2005 Chevy Cobalt front speakers silent" Tags="|chevrolet|cobalt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7801" CreationDate="2013-10-22T21:43:27.047" Score="4" ViewCount="3003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need any special tools or skills to replace the shocks on my 1996 Ford Ranger?&#xA;Regular Cab, Step Side, 3.0L V6 if it matters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3874" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T15:40:18.763" Title="'96 Ford Ranger - Shock Replacement" Tags="|ford|replace|tools|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7452" CreationDate="2013-10-23T01:18:44.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you buy this car brand new? It is possible that someone traded it in and did a hack job putting the speakers back in. A previous owner could've potentially had an after-market stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume your stereo is factory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T01:18:44.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7467" CreationDate="2013-10-24T00:01:29.787" Score="4" ViewCount="7487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a '99 Ranger which ran over a metal sign post. Squashed the post (we did notify the people responsible for the post). The only damage  to the Ranger is a slightly bent chrome bumper. I'd like to re-bend the bumper if its easy enough. Has anyone bent a bumper back into shape? How did you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of some lethal combination of clamps, wooden blocks, and a come-along. However, I thought it would be wise to ask here first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3876" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T14:16:17.890" Title="Rebending a bumper" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7460" CreationDate="2013-10-24T01:14:10.103" Score="2" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister has a 2004 Nissan Sentra with a 1.8L engine, and a day or two ago she started noticing some (not a lot) smoke coming from the engine compartment after driving for a long time (i.e., more than 20-30 minutes). The smoke is coming from a component on the front of the engine, which I am fairly certain is the exhaust manifold. Here is a picture of where it is located in the engine compartment (this is not my car, it is just to show the general location):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dHBz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Compartment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the best picture I could get of the component itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9FhQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exhaust Manifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started happening right after getting an oil change, so I suspect that the guy who did the oil change spilled some oil, and when the engine gets nice and hot it simply burns off that excess oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone confirm whether or not this is the exhaust manifold, and tell me if I should be more worried than I am? Currently I am planning on just letter her drive it for a few days, to see if the problem goes away by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3346" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T13:02:13.293" Title="'04 Nissan Sentra - Smoke from engine compartment after long drive" Tags="|nissan|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2013-10-24T11:06:17.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stabil is not recommended in ethanol blended fuels as it causes a chemical reaction corroding brass in carburetors and speeds up the process at which ethanol mix gas breaks down fuel lines in vehicles made 2006 or older.  All auto gasoline in the US contains a 10% ethanol mix as of 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A version of Stabil was released that was supposedly ethanol friendly but it in turn sped up the process of corrosion and breakdown in older vehicles.  So, the best solution is to just drain your gas before you leave the vehicle parked for an extended period.  Just about every car has a drain plug in the gas tank.  Simply take the plug out and drain it.  Of course, make sure to capture it in a container appropriate for gasoline storage so you can either use it in something else or have it disposed of properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the tank is drained turn your key to the key on/engine off position for 5 seconds then turn it off and repeat about 3 times.  This will clear the fuel pump and most of the fuel line of any fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3877" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T13:26:22.210" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T13:26:22.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7462" CreationDate="2013-10-24T12:55:46.627" Score="8" ViewCount="4486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel wheels are often used in Winter due to its low cost, however, it is very prone to rust. Why are Stainless Steel wheels, more specifically 316 Stainless Steel not being more popular as the material it is being use in marine environments where corrosion is even higher than salt in Winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:13:39.110" Title="Why are there no Stainless Steel wheels to prevent Corrosion in Winter?" Tags="|tires|wheels|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7457" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:02:13.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that oil was spilled and starts to burn away once the car is hot.  The other option is an oil leak is occurring on a component of the exhaust.  Keep driving for now, but make sure you are checking the oil level frequently in the case that it is an oil leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T13:02:13.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:33:57.897" Score="1" ViewCount="16599" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr Which is best? Buying high-quality, longer-lasting, but more expensive oils and changing oil less frequently or buying lower-quality oil but changing more frequently?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm trying to find my way in engine oil land, I am basically stuck at the following dilemma. I own a BMW E46 from 2001, so in my example, all of the oils I'm talking about are fully synthetic and at least BMW-Longlife 01 approved. There are high-quality, but expensive oils that claim that they last longer than conventional oils (and this claim is BMW approved). With a little bit of simplification (not taking into account the negligible price of an oil filter and rounding prices a little), I can choose to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either buy the more expensive oil and do oil changes only every 10,000 miles/15,000 kilometres;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or buy the cheaper oil (1/2 the price of the more expensive oil) and do oil changes every 7,500 kilometres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the overall cost would, more or less, remain the same, so I'm wondering which option would be best. Since price doesn't make a difference, and I don't mind doing oil changes more often (it's only 15 min. of work, after all), so what is the best option to prolong engine life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I was mostly interested in the general case, but in case any of you really know a lot about specific oils, these are the two oils I was talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/engine-oil/bolk-bol-d031016_g3224_a999BOL-D031016.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolk 5w40 Diesel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/engine-oil/castrol-14d79b_g3224_a20714D79B.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Castrol Edge 5w30 Long Life&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="3474" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T13:58:13.010" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T20:01:05.640" Title="Lower quality oil vs high quality oil" Tags="|engine|maintenance|oil|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-29T01:34:06.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7459" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:45:34.873" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second Gabriel's comment: Probably cost. Nickel Moly Chromium Stainless (316) is very expensive, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wayfair.com/Elkay-Gourmet-12-Top-Mount-Kitchen-Sink-DLR252210-ELK2580.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;random kitchen sink&lt;/a&gt; is just a sheet of stainless stamped into a cube, and it's $500+ retail. Given the price I have to assume it's 316, otherwise it would be even &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only imagine what a single wheel would cost a manufacturer. Even using Powdered metal for casting is still expensive, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Stainless-Steel-AISI-316-Powder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this place&lt;/a&gt; 45 micron 316 will run you $350 for 2kg, which is only about 4.5 lbs. Not sure how much you need to make a wheel, but you can see where I'm going. Even buying crazy amounts in bulk probably steel (!) wouldn't break the cost-benefit ratio (profit-trouble ratio?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may however take a page out of the exhaust manufacturer's book, and coat your wheels with aluminum some sort of way, maybe elctroplating or something. It may not be the most stylish (then again, maybe it might), but it would certainly be cost effective to go the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Aluminum-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249128/100670427#.UmkjvSTkuVE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diy route&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclosure&lt;/em&gt;: I'm not a metallurgist, but I have an intro to metallurgy class this semester, and we just talked about stainless steel the other day, so that and the fact I'm into cars peaked my interest in this question :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T12:51:48.790" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T12:51:48.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7459" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:50:07.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Largely because it's unnecessary.  Steel wheels are so incredibly cheap compared to stainless that there's no benefit.  Steel wheels are heavy enough that it takes way beyond the normal life of a car for them to rust out too (I have a 22 year old car that I drive in the winters on original steel wheels and the wheels are in better shape than the car body).  It's also normal to use wheelcovers on steel wheels to hide the unsightly surface rust that does sometimes appear over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T13:50:07.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7456" CreationDate="2013-10-24T16:27:45.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only straightened out small pieces but every time I used a hammer, something smooth and of the correct shape to hammer against and lots of patience. I would be worried about the chrome though. It's only a small layer on the surface and bending/hammering at it will remove it easily, and then your bumper will start to rust. You might have better luck going to nearby junkyards to look for an intact bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T16:27:45.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7452" CreationDate="2013-10-24T16:35:00.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the connections to the speaker are ok then you may have dirt in the cones. I had a speaker stop working because of that. As soon as I started looking at it carefully there was a ball of dirt that stopped the cone from moving at all. Once I cleaned it up it worked again like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you say that the speakers will work if you jiggle them I imagine it's not for lack of a good connection to the radio, but if nothing else works this might also be worth checking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another quick check is to swap one of the front speakers with one of the back speakers and see what works and what doesn't. This will tell you if it's the speaker or a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T20:53:16.257" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T20:53:16.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7423" CreationDate="2013-10-24T16:43:46.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked that the connections to the battery are snug? I don't think a bad connection at the alternator would turn your battery light on, that usually happens when the battery itself is low/disconnected. I would look at the wires on the battery and make sure they are tight and free of corrosion and also follow them to as many connections as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that one of your main fuses is loose or on the brink of failure. I would check that all your fuses in the fuse box are snug and intact, especially the big ones that are mounted using screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T16:43:46.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7456" CreationDate="2013-10-24T23:09:20.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I straightened a chrome bumper that was pushed into the fender using a tree and a 3/8&quot; tow chain. I hooked the chain on the bumper then put a wrap of chain around the tree. I backed up slowly on an asphalt driveway to limit tire spin. You have to pull a little past the ideal point as it will spring back some when the tension is released. It wasn't perfect when done but looked better than when bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T23:09:20.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7358" CreationDate="2013-10-24T23:50:49.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what year Civic your brother has, but I found some info on civinfo straight from Honda about this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civinfo.com/forum/bugs-faults-irritations/52857-honda-hints-tip-issue-no-9-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.civinfo.com/forum/bugs-faults-irritations/52857-honda-hints-tip-issue-no-9-a.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from PDF file (since you have to sign up to view the PDF)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3rd gear difficult to select, jumps out of gear or crunching when changing up from 2nd gear on 2007 model Type R only&#xA;Fix: Please replace the third/fourth synchro hub using the following information on your warranty claim&#xA;&#xA;Casual part number: 23623PNS316&#xA;Sympton code: 0301&#xA;LON: 2131D0&#xA;FRT: 5.9 Hours&#xA;Replacement part number: 23623PNS326&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution besides replacing that synchro...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was researching these cars (considered buying one at one point), I read about third gear grinding issues. The solution a lot of the time is to switch to GM transmission fluid, as seen here on an EM2 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/324484-3rd-gear-grind-got-you-down-i-got-your-fix.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/324484-3rd-gear-grind-got-you-down-i-got-your-fix.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another instance&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3020743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3020743&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a pretty common solution to use GM synchromesh. I found a few threads where it cured their issue on various Hondas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T23:50:49.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7471" CreationDate="2013-10-25T08:28:49.657" Score="9" ViewCount="2551" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you guys please tell me the name of the part in red square in English?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spqqy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3879" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T13:07:15.340" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T12:39:44.003" Title="What is name of this part in the picture?" Tags="|part-identification|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7461" CreationDate="2013-10-25T08:29:48.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite easy. High-performance oils are meant to provide improved lubrication under, well, high-performance conditions while providing a similar level of lubrication &quot;performance&quot; under normal conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're gonna drive like Dominic Toretto, then get the expensive stuff. But if you're only ever going to drive to work and back or take the occasional road trip, cheaper oils are just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly: you won't enjoy the benefits of the more expensive oil unless you live your life a quarter mile at a time. But on balance, the more expensive oil is probably better because there's less maintenance involved and on the off-chance you're involved in a high-speed shoot-out with Columbian drug lords, you'll be glad your engine is protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T08:29:48.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7469" CreationDate="2013-10-25T11:28:28.557" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would refer to it as a CV (constant velocity) joint spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T11:28:28.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23695" CreationDate="2013-10-25T13:13:18.910" Score="10" ViewCount="13605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it will be okay to run 100 octane low-lead aviation fuel in my 2007 RM250 motocross bike (two-stroke). Half of the people I've asked say yes, while the other half say no. Will it be okay to run aviation fuel in this high RPM two-stroke engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:43:58.180" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T11:38:15.853" Title="Is it okay to run aviation fuel (100 low-lead) in a dirt bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|suzuki|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2013-10-25T14:53:15.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but you'll significantly reduce the life of your engine. That's the short and to the point answer. I don't know too much about bikes, but if this were a car, I'd at the very least have someone tweak the carbs and adjust the timing somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T14:53:15.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2013-10-26T15:18:06.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend it.  I was told that 100LL has about 4x the lead that the old regular leaded fuel had.  Even on aircraft (which run at or near 75%+ power continuously) lead fouling of plugs is a major issue with frequent cleanings required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T15:18:06.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-26T19:01:26.300" Score="1" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why the mean piston speed might be lower in the average turbo gasoline engine compared to the average naturally aspirated engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scratching my head to figure this out but no luck so far. Any advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3882" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T19:57:17.450" Title="Mean Piston Speed in Turbocharged Vs. Naturally Aspirated Engines" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7475" CreationDate="2013-10-26T19:57:17.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: It depends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_piston_speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this (admittedly incomplete) wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The mean piston speed is the average speed of the piston in a&#xA;  reciprocating engine. It is a function of stroke and RPM. There is a&#xA;  factor of 2 in the equation to account for one stroke to occur in 1/2&#xA;  of a crank revolution (or alternatively: two strokes per one crank&#xA;  revolution) and a '60' to convert seconds from minutes in the RPM&#xA;  term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MPS = 2 * Stroke * RPM / 60&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, a piston in an&#xA;  automobile engine which has a stroke of 90 mm will have a mean speed&#xA;  at 3000 rpm of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 * (90 / 1000) * 3000 / 60 = 9 m/s.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if what you're describing were the case (that turbo engines tend to have lower mean piston speeds), we'd expect to see a trend towards either low stroke, low RPMs or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a turbo engine, we care a lot about airflow.  The airflow rate is proportional to the displacement times the engine RPM times volumetric efficiency (see Maximum Boost page 27 for the real equation).  Our turbos generate more boost as RPMs increase and then being to drop off as efficiency goes down.  So I wouldn't expect to see a bias towards low RPMs on a turbo car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we might expect to see turbo engines with smaller stroke and larger bore for a given displacement.  In the absence of detailed information, you might expect a short stroke engine to be high rev-er since each revolution would require a shorter transit for each piston (i.e., it doesn't have to go as far so it's likely able to get from top to bottom more quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that tells us that a given turbo engine might have high revs and short stroke.  Does that mean that we'll see higher mean piston speeds?  As always, it depends on the specific engine and application.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm driving my son to school in my turbo car, the revs are pretty sedate.  I would expect to see pretty low mean piston speeds.  This same car is used for rallying where they're using the top end of the rev range quite a bit more.  I'd say that their mean piston speeds are pretty spritely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T19:57:17.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-26T20:17:43.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1552" Body="&lt;p&gt;first time here and pointed this way by a friend after I asked about on twitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1998 Honda Accord LX 4-cyl 2.3L with 230k miles approximately on it. I try to take decent care but I've slipped up on oil a few times, always able to get another quart into it until I do a change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, I'm afraid there may be a leak. My last change was about 4 months ago and it's gone significantly down in oil level since then, down to 1 quart approximately. I've added 1 quart to satisfy the oil light until I change, but I needed advice on which weight and brand of oil to get, and what type of filter is a good recommended brand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also considering spark plugs, as I've not changed mine in about 4 years, though I don't know how big of a deal that is. It's been about 50k since I've replaced them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got additional maintenance that'll be much, much more expensive in the future, but these are somethings I need to do right now. I'm sure transmission work and a new clutch are in the future. I love the car even though she's not that pretty in some spots, but no wrecks ever so I'd like to keep her for a while; car payments on a future vehicle scare me with my income level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3883" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T17:14:46.817" Title="What oil brand, style, weight, and filter for a 230k 98 Honda Acord LX 4-cyl?" Tags="|oil-change|sparkplugs|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13116" CreationDate="2013-10-27T15:11:39.590" Score="23" ViewCount="130618" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update 11/9/2013&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a good bit of driving, the noise reoccurred. I took it back to the mechanic and we decided it must be the brake pads. They're pretty worn out, and like I said before, they're worn unevenly. Since the problem is intermittent, perhaps the pads are making an awkward angle with the rotor sometimes, leading to the grinding/groaning noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and EBC USR (slotted) rotors. I had the shop install them today. So far so good - no noise - but we'll have to see what happens in a thousand or so miles once the pads are fully broken in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can answer my own question, BTW, but I'm going to wait until the pads are broken in before I conclude the answer to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 11/2/2013&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a well reviewed independent auto repair shop in my area. The first thing the mechanic brought up was that my rear brakes (the drums) needed to be adjusted. The mechanic showed me how my left drum was completely stuck, whereas my right drum was too loose. After he adjusted the drums, he told me to drive around for another couple hundred miles and see if the noise comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the mechanic mentioned that the drums could be the reason behind the uneven wear on my front pads. He also mentioned that the groove on my front rotor, although far from desired, is unlikely to be the cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's see what happens this week!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Story&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Honda Civic LX. It's my first car, and I must say I drive it rather hard. After about 20k miles, my brakes started to feel wavy - I would hold the brake pedal, and the car would slow down in an inconsistent, wavy manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that my rotors were warped (or, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;StopTech&lt;/a&gt;, pad material was transferred unevenly), and I wanted to learn more about my car's brakes, so I decided to replace my rotors and pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought new EBC rotors (OEM replacements) and pads (Ultimax2, OEM replacements), and I replaced the originals. I made sure I installed the EBC parts exactly the way the OEM parts were installed, and I was sure to check the brake fluid level and re-grease the caliper pins and pad brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I installed the EBC parts, the brakes felt orgasmic. With that said, I tried my best to avoid using them too roughly in order to follow EBC's break-in procedure (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EBC's FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, item #9). I followed the break-in procedure for about 500 miles or so before I slowly transitioned back into my previous driving style. Still, the brakes felt great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few months, my brakes started to emit a terrible grinding/groaning noise when I braked &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;. This part is important - my brakes do not create the noise consistently - only &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;. When I don't hear (or feel) the noise, my brakes seem as amazing as they were after I installed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was able to capture a recording of the sound after driving around for about 2 hours one night. I've uploaded the sound &lt;a href=&quot;https://soundcloud.com/nullsquared/brakes-groaning-and-grinding&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you turn up your speakers so that you can hear it well. Every time you hear the noise, I was coming to a slow stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise does not appear at high speed stops or during throttle braking. It only appears at low speed stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, it still only happens &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; during low speed stops - other times, I'm able to come to a low speed stop with perfectly smooth, silent brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise has never happened after a cold start (i.e. when I drive to work in the morning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise seems to only happen after I drive around for a while. It seems to happen more often after I drive around for a while, then stop the car for a little bit. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive to XYZ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park for 15-30 mins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good chance that the noise will occur during step 4, but no guarantee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, the noise does occur sometimes after driving around for a while without stopping at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise can come and go. For example, I could drive around for a while, start hearing the noise, then the noise might go away, and then it might start happening a couple of stops later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rules out surface rust, which would go away after the first couple of times of braking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, especially after the noise happens or before it's about to happen, I can hear a faint screeching/squeeling sound when I brake. I can only hear it when I roll my window down and practically stick my head out the window. This sound is very, very different from the grinding/groaning noise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do not notice any loss of performance in the brakes, even while the noise is occurring. The car slows down correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Investigation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other weekend, I took apart my brakes to see if I could pinpoint any obvious problems. I also cleaned and re-greased all of the appropriate parts, although that did not help. Here are my observations when I took apart the brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pads are worn unevenly. The tops of the pads are visibly thinner than the bottoms of the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The outer side of my driver's side rotor has an apparent groove on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/64UUL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rotor groove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corresponding brake pad has a matching groove:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IsAqv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pad groove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if this groove was the cause of the noise, wouldn't the noise happen every time I brake?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried to bed in the pads using the 60-10 x5 procedure (slow down from 60 MPH to 10 MPH several times with short cooling periods in between, also described on EBC's FAQ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This did not help - the noise happened again the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I'm not entirely sure if I performed the procedure correctly - perhaps I did not slow down quickly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing this terrible grinding/groaning noise when I use the brakes &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T11:10:50.330" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T11:10:50.330" Title="What is causing this terrible grinding/groaning noise when I come to a slow stop sometimes? (but not always!)" Tags="|civic|noise|brake-rotor|vibration|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9906" CreationDate="2013-10-27T22:03:08.583" Score="3" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I got my Clio a few months ago it's been making a sort of squealing sound when I'm letting the clutch pedal out at a certain RPM. If I'm moving off at a lower RPM (such as for downhill starts or just flat starts) it will not make the noise. It also does not make the noise if I move off at a higher RPM (e.g. for uphill starts); it seems to be somewhere in the middle, between low and higher RPM. The clutch does not seem to be slipping or any signs of wearing other than this sound; the car moves off and engages every gear perfectly fine, it's just an annoyance more than anything. It's been an ongoing problem for months and I never bothered doing anything to it or checking it out as this is my first car and I'm not looking to put any/much money into repairs. Over the months the problem does not seem to have gotten any more severe or frequent than it was when I got it.&#xA;Any idea what this is? &#xA;Also would the car pass UK MOT test with this noise? &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3886" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T05:24:02.743" Title="1998 Renault Clio screeching/squealing clutch" Tags="|clutch|noise|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6606" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:10:13.137" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Rebel seal pops out due to too much blow by pressure. You do not use a puller. You use the 16 millimeter bolt with the 1.5 pitch to remove the flywheel. Screw the bolt in. Tap the bolt. If the flywheel doesn't remove, screw the bolt in again. Tap the bolt. Rinse lather repeat - at some point the flywheel will spring loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3889" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T10:40:49.233" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T10:40:49.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7484" CreationDate="2013-10-28T16:46:00.107" Score="2" ViewCount="35255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently (about 3 months ago) got my clutch replaced in my '97 Ford Ranger, and when i was driving it yesterday, the clutch suddenly stopped working. I was in gear when it happened and was able to shift shortly after (didn't think anything of it) but then I was stuck in 3rd gear, and pressing the clutch did nothing from there. Had to get truck towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to describe it is lack of resistance/pressure when pressing the clutch. From what I'm reading online it sounds like I may need to bleed the clutch? Is this correct? The fact that it was just suddenly bad makes me fear that it may be something more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3891" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:28:07.973" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T04:37:11.917" Title="Ford Ranger Clutch Suddenly Has No Pressure" Tags="|ford|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2013-10-28T17:00:39.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no resistance to the pedal, I'd suspect a hydraulic problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the fluid level in the master cylinder (which should be the opposite side of the bulkhead to the pedal, and will look like a smaller, simpler version of the brake cylinder). If it is low or empty, you have a leak. If it is still full, you most likely have a problem with the master cylinder, or an airlock in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a leak, the fault will be either in the pipe(s) or the slave cylinder. You might be able to see signs of fluid where it leaked - if not, refill &amp;amp; bleed it, and get an assistant to press the pedal as you check for leaks (be careful, as fluid could spurt out under pressure!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unusual for an airlock to suddenly appear, and they usually manifest as limited resistance rather than none at all - you'd find that the pedal did nothing for much of its travel, then got harder once you had compressed the air enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master cylinder issues can be harder to diagnose, as they can fail without leaking externally, and simply allow the fluid to freely pass between the reservoir and pressure sides of the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T17:00:39.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2013-10-28T17:17:59.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This lights means that the generator does not generate enough power and the car should drain power from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time the generator are drived by belts. If that belt slips then it could cause this kind of problems. The generator belt only slips if the power consumption is big (high load) and when the blet is a bit slippier (high humidity, dirty roads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the belt and if it looks like bad replace it. The belts are cheap but if they fail they could cause much higher repair costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T17:17:59.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2013-10-28T17:28:36.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have new brakes it takes time to them loose the original coating/surface. My have the same problem for a time but not lasted for this long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grove is does noot sounds good. If they are not too deep you could go to a shop and they could make resurface it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your disc soo thin that they could 'bend' because of the heat. Is this sound 'still' or it variable 'pitch'? Do you feel anything in your brake pedal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, replace it right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dba.com.au/easy-way-to-tell-when-you-need-a-disc-brake-change/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dba.com.au/easy-way-to-tell-when-you-need-a-disc-brake-change/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090329193351AAmido1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090329193351AAmido1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Grooves are not normal they are the result of either wear or the previous pads not being changed soon enough and the rivets or steel backing plates cutting into the rotors. The brakes may appear to be working normally but the grooves prevent the new pads from being in full contact with the rotors. It is taking a longer distance to stop because of the grooves. In an emergency situation a few feet might be the distance between an accident or no accident, or a minor fender bender and serious injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have the rotors resurfaced or replaced in the near future. You might&#xA;  have to replace the pads again as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T17:28:36.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:39:03.047" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about fixing cars, but I had a similar problem with my 2009 Accord.  The brakes would grind / gurgle on the first couple stops, but after a few minutes I could slam the brakes with no noise, and they didn't feel squishy or anything.  It turned out to be bad calipers on the front brakes, according to my mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2507" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:39:03.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7461" CreationDate="2013-10-28T20:01:05.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the age of your car I'm assuming it's high mileage.  That's really the only thing I'd consider - use a regular oil or one specifically for high mileage (HM)?  HM oils are supposed to help prevent oil leak/seepage as seals get worn.  I've heard that high mileage oil makes more of a difference to an engine than the synthetic vs non-synthetic debate.  I don't have any hard facts but these two sites have some decent information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to use the cheapest high mileage oil you can find and change based on the car manual's frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobil.com/USA-English-LCW/carengineoils_products_mobil-super-high-mileage.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mobil High Mileage Oil explained&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&amp;amp;Board=1&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob The Oil Guy forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3892" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T20:01:05.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2013-10-28T21:40:33.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to take my 1986 CJ-7 off the road 6 months each year when I was in college during the winter.  My grandfather, who was a mechanic in the Marines, had me do the following each time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the gas tank, put in gas stabilizer and run the engine for ~10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain &amp;amp; replace the oil, replace the filter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the battery and bring it in the house&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since this was pre-fuel injectors, we sprayed starting fluid into the carburetor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray WD-40 on brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store it in the garage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the undercarriage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, jack it up so the tires aren't on the ground.  I never did but I had newer tires.  You can get #2 &amp;amp; 7 done at the same time at any garage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put it back on the road we sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and ran the car for a long time to burn through the gas.  I never had any significant problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3892" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T21:40:33.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2013-10-29T00:43:54.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to have the key reprogrammed. I believe that if the vehicle does not recognize a key that has been inserted into the ignition, because of the immobilizer, it will not allow the key to activate the ignition even if the key has been turned. The immobilization method varies between makes and models but this is the general principle.&#xA;On older Volkswagen models, reprogramming is simple enough for the owner to do; however for the 2008 model of the Golf, I believe you need to take it to a local Volkswagen dealer as the process is much more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4841861-key-coding-on-golf-5-2008-model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4841861-key-coding-on-golf-5-2008-model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the topic of your problem, though, this shouldn't happen. What you described happened somewhat gradually as you said that after the first time it happened, it worked upon retrying; and then the next time it happened, it wouldn't work at all. This leads me to believe that there is an electrical/wiring fault within the ignition/immobilizer system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3886" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T00:43:54.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2013-10-29T16:50:45.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store my Camaro every winter (for the past 8 years). Each year my car starts with no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look into places that store classic cars, and I would not start the car during those five months (moisture can build in the exhaust). My advice is similar to the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy fuel stabilizer (I buy Stabil, though any brand will likely do the trick) and pour some in your tank and then fill your car up after. I don't like the idea of filling up first then pouring it on top, as it may not mix correctly. Let the car run for a bit (10-15 minutes) or take it for a run down the street.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash and spray wax (or use quick detailer) your paint. If water spots form from sitting on your paint, they can be a pain to remove. Some can be so bad that wetsanding is needed. The previous owner of my Camaro did this. Paste/Liquid wax isn't necessary since your car will be out of the elements, I suggest spray wax just because it's faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roll down windows a crack to allow circulation. I also put dryer sheets through the interior to deter mice (some argue it's effectiveness, I've yet to encounter mice however)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect your battery. Assuming your battery is healthy, there should be all kinds of juice when you go to start your car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost forgot! Get a garage to check your coolant effectiveness. Last thing you want is a cracked engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some change their oil before &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; after storage, I don't think it's necessary to change it before you store your car. I change my oil usually within the first week of getting my car out. I've never encountered flat spots on my tires for winter storage either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Camaro is a 1995, and it starts up no troubles every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastEditorUserId="3558" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T16:39:05.167" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T16:39:05.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2013-10-29T17:14:46.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, I'm afraid there may be a leak. My last change was about 4 months ago and it's gone significantly down in oil level since then, down to 1 quart approximately. I've added 1 quart to satisfy the oil light until I change, but I needed advice on which weight and brand of oil to get, and what type of filter is a good recommended brand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried checking underneath the car for fluid leaks? At 230,000 miles on a Honda, oil consumption is normal. I'd avoid synthetic on an older car. It tends to leak out faster.  I'd just use whatever is recommended in your manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm also considering spark plugs, as I've not changed mine in about 4 years, though I don't know how big of a deal that is. It's been about 50k since I've replaced them.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might be like new or they could be shot. This depends several factors (running rich, excessive idling). Pulling plugs on a Honda is fairly easy. Here is an interesting article on spark plug wear (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/spark-plug-analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/spark-plug-analysis&lt;/a&gt;). This can give you an idea on how your car is running as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've got additional maintenance that'll be much, much more expensive in the future, but these are somethings I need to do right now. I'm sure transmission work and a new clutch are in the future. I love the car even though she's not that pretty in some spots, but no wrecks ever so I'd like to keep her for a while; car payments on a future vehicle scare me with my income level.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the timing belt &amp;amp; water pump been changed? This is very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of transmission work are you referring to? Fluid change or a rebuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T17:14:46.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T18:05:49.113" Score="4" ViewCount="91911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sunday I didn't use my car. At 9pm I moved it across the street because the street sweeper was passing on Monday. Monday morning at 8:30am my car doesn't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remembered that I haven't checked to make sure I have coolant in a while. I had zero but my car never signaled that it was overheating. At 4:30pm my friend gave me a jump start. I let it run for 15 minutes. Turned it off and back on 15 minutes later and it worked fine. By this time I didn't have to go anywhere so I just left it. Today at 8:30am it wouldn't start again. Is it that I damaged something because I didn't have any coolant, or is it my battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3893" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T05:07:47.533" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T01:18:52.727" Title="My car won't start. Is it that I ran it without coolant or is it my battery?" Tags="|toyota|battery|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2013-10-29T18:21:23.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant has nothing to do with your car's ability to start. Most cars can be started with the water pump not even running (not for long, mind you, as it will overheat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you needed a jump to start once -- I'd imagine your battery needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T11:14:41.927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T11:14:41.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T22:22:48.303" Score="5" ViewCount="2499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had it for about two years now, and didn't have this problem until recently. At one occasion after a long trip it wouldn't start after parking for a few minutes.. the next morning it fired right up. A few months went by with  no trouble until last weekend; I drove it to work all week and then on Saturday it fails to start and hasn't since. Turning the key over I have lights, radio, the starter spins , etc. I do have pressure from exhaust while trying to start as well. What do you think is the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3894" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T14:13:01.617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T16:54:19.027" Title="2002 Ford Explorer won't start" Tags="|ford|starting|troubleshooting|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T22:41:52.130" Score="4" ViewCount="10011" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptom: while accelerating, at a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; particular throttle level/pedal angle my engine recently started whistling in a very high pitch. If I let go of the gas or push it in more the sound goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said that this is new. To be more exact this started happening after I was diagnosing something else and did two thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I lowered the idle, which was too high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner all over the intake system while listening for any change in the idle. Nothing was found.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that I have an air leak that I haven't found? If so, is there a (better) method of checking for vacuum leaks that will allow me to find a more subtle leak, that might not show itself when using the carb cleaner method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it possible that the whistle is absolutely benign and I'm worrying about it too much? I cannot seem to replicate it while the car is standing still, it seems to either need load on the engine or moving air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am driving a 4 cyl 1993 Acura Integra, no turbo. About a year ago I replaced the stock intake with a cold air intake (the noise is new, however).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I tried to check the PCV valve and it crumbled in my hand. In the process of replacing it. Hopefully that's what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T16:01:12.353" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T01:26:14.287" Title="High pitch whistle at a very particular throttle level" Tags="|engine|noise|acura|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2013-10-30T03:12:46.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I give you my opinion late but I think that it will help someone who has the same problem. I am not a specialist but I had the same experience. Car cutting off while I stop or slowdown, more than 13 codes, AC won't work you can't imagine how hard it was for me as a limo driver. The only problem was the computer. I bought a used computer, fixed it, and all my problem stopped right away. It was unbelievable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T21:11:46.670" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T21:11:46.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2013-10-30T04:53:30.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damaged tires (internal belts) or excessively worn tires are usually the main problem if your tires have been balanced properly and you have good rims. I had to replace the king pins on my 4x4 and set the alignment and replace the tires because of the uneven severe wear that was caused by the worn out king pins. The severe wear of the tires caused major shuddering at various speeds and on bumpy roads it was impossible to travel at high speed because of the shudder. Solution: Re-Alignment and new king pins and tie rod ends and tires were needed and fixed the issue. If your a mechanic it should only take you a day to do (Depending on the vehicle) if you are not sure of what you are doing take it to the shop for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T04:53:30.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:37:24.580" Score="3" ViewCount="2367" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does the valves bend when the timing chain slips on sprokets, on a mercedes benz 2008   model C200 komp?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3897" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:39:49.370" Title="Timing chain of a mercedes benz" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7497" CreationDate="2013-10-30T13:27:14.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your fuel pump might be dead or not getting power. I would check that, it's the most likely, and also the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check to see if you get spark at the spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T13:27:14.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-30T19:28:30.033" Score="3" ViewCount="2792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I drive over speed bumps (or pot holes or whathaveyou) I notice that when the rear wheels go over, the whole car jumps up and down and clatters, a lot more so than the front wheels. I am pretty sure the shocks are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the issue here, partly because I've changed them and the behavior didn't go away and partly because the problem is not that the back is too bouncy, it's that it's too stiff. It almost seems like there's something wrong with the coil springs, but they look fine and I have no idea how to test them otherwise... Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is an Acura Integra from '93, a sporty hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T20:59:15.993" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T22:11:15.463" Title="Rear suspension much more sensitive to bumps than front" Tags="|suspension|springs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7504" CreationDate="2013-10-30T21:28:56.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fairly common issue on cars with strut suspension are broken springs. As the strut wears it looses its ability to control spring dampening. This allows the spring to compress and expand faster and farther than designed. Over time the spring weakens and breaks. The break many times occurs at the very last turns of the spring and may go unnoticed. Look at the very bottom of the spring and see if the end appears as a clean edge or a jagged break. You should have the same number of coils on both sides. The shortened spring acts stiffer than the stock spring resulting in a harsher ride. Another source of banging maybe worn or damaged strut mounts ( in your case this should have been detected during replacement). You may also have worn suspension bushings that are allowing extra movement  resulting in the banging. Don't forget to rule out a broken exhaust hanger letting the exhaust bang on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T21:28:56.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7515" CreationDate="2013-10-31T16:43:24.933" Score="0" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my power steering hose replaced. I'm faithful to this shop but I'm a little currious about this last repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was charged $42 for inspection, $62 for the hose, and $127 to do the repair.  That seems a bit steep for a hose repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3904" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T02:16:16.037" Title="2005 Town &amp; Country Power Steering Hose Repair" Tags="|power-steering|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-11-01T14:55:48.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T18:17:48.207" Score="5" ViewCount="27630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned it is a good idea to wash the coolant system with dish soap to remove residue oil.  I was wondering if that is true or can it have any side effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T06:46:32.533" Title="Washing coolant system with dish soap to remove oil residue" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:39:39.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that this person was advocating putting a small amount of dish soap in the water used to do a coolant system flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not do this to my car as routine/preventative maintenance, I would simply use water for a flush. My concern would be that any dish soap residue remaining in the system may adversely affect the chemistry of the coolant, potentially impacting its ability to prevent corrosion or cool the car. I doubt the chemists are checking to make sure their coolant is unaffected by dish soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are purpose-made coolant system flush solutions marketed by coolant manufacturers. Presumably these are safe with the coolant chemistry, but unless I had reason to suspect above-normal levels of contamination/corrosion in the coolant system, I would simply use water rather than spend money on multiple gallons of special flush fluid that I would then have to dispose of properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain water from a garden hose is a common flush recommendation. Castrol, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9013136&amp;amp;contentId=7011123&quot;&gt;recommends water&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:39:39.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2906" CreationDate="2013-10-31T23:40:09.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the nut off. Out of sheer frustration combined with late night stupidity I put the longest cheater bar on it and jacked up the end of the bar using a hydraulic jack. Surprisingly, it worked even though I was turning it in the wrong direction (that's the reason I hadn't tried that sooner). The nut un-seized and I was able to remove it relatively easily afterward. I guess brute force was the way after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T23:40:09.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2013-11-01T02:16:16.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the shops hourly rate it seems at least reasonable. If the hose has been seeping or leaking slowly for some time the area might need to be degreased and tested to determine where the actual leak was occurring. A dye may have been added and the system run to verify that there is only one source for the leak. At a labor rate of $80 an hour that would be about 30 minutes which doesn't seem unrealistic. The labor for the repair at that $80 rate would have been about 90 minutes. Since I haven't personally replaced one of these hoses I can't say whether that is a reasonable time or not. The cheapest prices I have found for a Chrysler original equipment low pressure/ return hose was close to $40. A retail price of $62 doesn't sound like it overly inflated. Part of what you are paying for is the trust that you are getting what you paid for and paying for only what is needed. If you don't feel you are being charged fairly ask the shop manager to explain the charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T02:16:16.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2013-11-01T18:26:38.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The groove could simply be a bit of dirt stuck there and I doubt it would generate the noise you describe (although getting rid of it is ideal). Based on the fact that the pads are thinner at the top than at the bottom and that the noise comes and goes seemingly at random my guess is that the corresponding calipers are getting stuck on their grooves for some reason. Check again that the pads themselves can slide back and forth easily on their grooves (especially the one responsible for the uneven wear) and that the metal clips are clean, greased and intact (they bend easily, so I would look for that too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ABS this could also be an ABS issue, but I know next to nothing about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T02:43:52.760" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T02:43:52.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-02T06:41:38.877" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules pertaining to the minimum weight of cars in motorsport (600+ kg in F1) were introduced to prevent manufacturers from producing dangerous designs for the sake of being lightweight. However, we do know that manufacturers still try to keep their designs as lightweight as possible and then bring up the weight to the minimum weight using ballast as they have the freedom to choose where exactly to place them for maximum gain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since the aim remains the same - design as light as possible, does the rule really make cars safer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3911" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T08:15:39.577" Title="Does the advantage of ballast make minimum weight rule pointless?" Tags="|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-11-19T18:30:26.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7520" CreationDate="2013-11-02T08:15:39.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious (though not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; right) answer is no, the rules don't make the cars safer &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; ballast is allowed. But I would add that that doesn't mean the guys at Red Bull will deliberately make a car unsafe. If they kill their star driver, they won't win any more races. Materials are lighter than ever and engineers have the benefit of experience, but the weight limits are much the same as they were a couple of years ago, so while the logical answer is that weight restrictions and ballast don't make cars safer, the practical answer is that F1 cars are safer than they ever were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T08:15:39.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8870" CreationDate="2013-11-03T11:08:22.190" Score="4" ViewCount="17114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am stuck trying to remove the door lock barrel from the inner mounted door module on the driver's side front door of my Mercedes Benz 2007 A-class W169.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have undone the Torx T15 screw from the door outer edge, and the Torx T15 screw seen from the small hole in the door frame which is on the rear of the barrel lock. The barrel is loose but will not come out, and until this is removed I can not remove the door module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY1kO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ld4FD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqP87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3914" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T18:57:29.617" Title="How to remove driver's side front door handle on a Mercedes Benz 2007 A-class W169?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|locks|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7533" CreationDate="2013-11-03T14:29:07.697" Score="4" ViewCount="13723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't know how else to describe it. Car has no issues starting or running, but for about the last 2 months every time I cold start it, the engine makes a sharp, high-pitched noise like a sneeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what this is or why it's happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, I finally managed to record the noise. I realised in my attempts to record that it certainly &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; happen &quot;every time&quot;. It happens maybe one time in ten, and &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; on a cold start. More often than not, it happens after I've been driving for a while and then stop and start the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link to the video. You can clearly hear the squawk just after it starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlqBFf63wXE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlqBFf63wXE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3915" LastEditorUserId="3915" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T11:09:49.263" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T18:05:03.470" Title="VW Golf TDI makes a 'sneezing' sound on startup" Tags="|starting|vw|golf|tdi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7551" CreationDate="2013-11-03T20:03:33.173" Score="6" ViewCount="30984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Miata. It's a Canadian vehicle, and so is equipped with daytime running lights. Recently, I've noticed that the passenger side light is not working as a DRL. The driver's side light works fine. A multi-meter shows that no current is being delivered to the passenger-side bulb, while the driver's side get 14 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn signal bulb is used as the daylight running light. The passenger side light works in all other respects. When indicating a right-hand turn, it blinks. When the main lights are on, it's on. When the driving lights are on, it's on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the relay responsible for turning on the daytime running lights is failing, but before I order the part, I thought I'd check here if there are other possible explanations for this behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more information in response to questions in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bulb for the DRL is dual filament. The brighter filament is for the DRL and the turn signal. The less bright filament lights when the headlights are on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When DRL are on, the turn signal sequence is off-on-off-on because the DRL and turn signal use the same filament.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wires to the connector are red, green and black. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one piece of interesting new information. The passenger side turn signal (right-hand turn) is starting to act strange intermittently. The relay cycles faster, maybe double the normal speed. The front turn signal does not light at all, while the rear on acts normally. This is the behaviour I've seen before when the front indicator bulb has burned out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to think the problem is not the DRL relay, but rather an electrical fault somewhere between the relay and the bulb. Since the turn signal and the DRL use the same filament but different relays, the fact that both are failing makes me think there's a problem in the wiring downstream of the relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3916" LastEditorUserId="3916" LastEditDate="2013-11-07T06:20:30.530" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T07:16:06.290" Title="Daytime running light failure -- one side only" Tags="|electrical|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T20:26:37.053" Score="4" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 gmc jimmy 4.3 L V6. I recently bought this truck and have had some minor problems with it but that is expected for the year. Lately the weather is starting to get colder. 0 Celsius over night, and now my heat stopped working. By this I mean the heat inside the cab of the truck. I recently changed the thermostat to see if this was the issue but it did not help. The coolant level is full. After running for five minutes the top radiator hose gets hot. The fan inside the cab works but it just blows cool air. I am a student so I'm broke most days. Any suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3917" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T20:59:40.877" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T04:36:56.997" Title="1999 jimmy with no heat in the cab" Tags="|heat|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6365" CreationDate="2013-11-03T21:22:56.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the test against the curb again with the hood up and look at the belt tensioner. My 2003 Zetec has been through four tensioners so far, and when they go they rattle hard when the engine is under load. If that's what's wrong with yours, you'll be able to see it shake violently in time to the rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3918" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T21:22:56.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7526" CreationDate="2013-11-03T22:13:02.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you order a new relay you should test the old one. It's not hard and the internet is helpful with info &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+test+a+relay&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+test+a+relay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the most common problem with electronics is bad grounding. First thing to check is the resistance between the black wire and different grounds on the car, looking for high resistance. If you get high resistance anywhere (higher than a few ohms) you'll want to trace the wire back until you find a good ground and check the connections between there and the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ground tests out fine turn the key until the other running light comes on and check the voltage at the red wire, it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be enough to turn the bulb on (12V? you can check the other bulb for the exact value, it might be helpful). I'm guessing it will some other, low value, since the light doesn't turn on. What you want to do next is to trace that wire back toward the battery. For this it might help to turn the key off and check for continuity from the bulb to upstream connections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracing those wires without a diagram can be a real pain, but luckily the circuit for running lights doesn't need to do much, so it's likely very simple with only a few connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T19:38:52.190" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T19:38:52.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T22:13:41.083" Score="8" ViewCount="8863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of repairing my 1997 Toyota 4-runner with a v-6 engine. I have only had the vehicle for a couple of days. I was doing a routine maintenance check on all the fluids. What I found was the antifreeze to be white in color with a brown oily substance on the reservoir. The rest of the fluids in the vehicle where all clean. Oil was very clean and no signs of white or discoloration, smelled normal. Transition fluid was clean, had a normal reddish color, did not smell burnt or bad. I performed a radiator fluid to clean all the white and slug out. I refilled with all purpose 50/50 antifreeze. After driving for about a half hour I recheck the antifreeze and the reservoir had a brown oily residue on the sides. I opened the cap and ran the engine without the cap. The antifreeze that spilled out of the radiator had this brown flaky oily substance in it. All other fluids where rechecked and still clean. I have reason to believe that it is the radiator leaking or the oil cooler leaking. I am trying to figure out if it is transmission fluid or engine oil in the antifreeze? that should tell me if it's the radiator or the cooler? or are they the same thing. Is the cooler located in the radiator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3919" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T22:27:40.137" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T17:38:27.520" Title="How can you tell the difference between oil or transmission fluid in the antifreeze?" Tags="|toyota|coolant|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7530" CreationDate="2013-11-03T23:04:48.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the likely suspect here is engine oil. If your head gasket is blown it is not unusual for oil to get into the coolant or the other way around. Coolant is being circulated through the engine very close to where oil is being circulated through the engine. Consider doing a compression test and/or a leak down test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T23:04:48.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7525" CreationDate="2013-11-04T13:56:59.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Mk4 TDI Jetta that makes a sound after startup that might be described as a sneeze. I'm fairly confident that it's the starter motor's overrun clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the engine &quot;starts,&quot; it begins turning faster than the starter can turn. For this reason, starters have a one-way clutch, called an overrun or sprag clutch. This permits the starter to turn the engine, but prevents the engine from turning the starter, protecting the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle, I imagine there's some play or a worn bearing in this clutch, because as soon as the engine fires, there's a short (~1-2sec) buzzing noise that starts high in pitch and decreases in pitch quickly as the sound dies away. One might desribe this sound as &quot;throat clearing&quot; or &quot;sneezing&quot; in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T13:56:59.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2013-11-04T17:08:45.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is a normal condition. The drive axle is connected to the Drive Pinion Gear which is meshed with both Differential pinion gears. As you turn the wheel both of the differential pinion gears rotate around the other drive pinion gear since it's being held by the other wheel on the ground. This turns the Carrier which is attached to the ring gear (AKA Final Drive Gear), which turns the pinion gear attached to the countershaft that's attached to the parking gear that is being stopped by the parking pawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing is a accumulation of all of the play within all of those parts. You can check the backlash of the differential but it requires disassembly of the transmission. Again what you have is a normal condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having symptoms like a clunk when shifting into drive or reverse there may be an issue to troubleshoot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added an image to illustrate the play in the parking pawl alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdAAR.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T17:49:02.110" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T17:49:02.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9667" CreationDate="2013-11-04T18:05:39.177" Score="5" ViewCount="10174" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery died last week. After I jumped it I noticed the truck would only stay running if I was revving the engine. As soon as I take my foot off the gas rpm drops to 0 and the truck dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it started happening after the battery I figured the battery must be dying (it is 12 or so years old), but after charging the battery I can start the truck without a jump, but without constantly revving it immediately dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the air filter.  Something online said maybe the fuel relay, I popped in the spare from the fuse box but with no success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T20:08:54.737" Title="2000 Dodge Ram 1500 won't idle" Tags="|dodge|idle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7530" CreationDate="2013-11-04T18:08:46.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flush the radiator. Some of the red coolants, especially if they used dexcool will look like that normally. If you've got oil, or transmission fluid going into the coolant you will likely have coolant going into the oil or transmission fluid, so check those fluids closely for contamination. Once you've done that, monitor the coolant closely and see if the condition comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side not if you bought this vehicle recently from anyone but a private seller, or auction house take it back to them for analysis before doing anything else. They make take care of it for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T18:08:46.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2013-11-04T23:50:48.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect your alternator or your battery or both are failing. Since your car needs both fuel and spark to keep the engine running it is possible that, unless you're revving up, the fuel pump and all the other electrical components are not getting enough juice to make the grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the battery and alternator. This post describes the process in great detail &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/1509&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/1509&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T23:50:48.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7668" CreationDate="2013-11-05T13:03:16.293" Score="5" ViewCount="4294" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ph6JOhFJcJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ph6JOhFJcJA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video above demonstrates the sound I hear when my car is at operating temperature. I don't know why it would sound so rough. It doesn't sound quite as bad as in the clip, but it definitely isn't normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sounds seems loudest right above the alternator, but it may also be coming from the cam belt or water pump. Don't worry about the slight miss that happens about halfway through, that was the coil pack, which I subsequently replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's apparently fairly common for Astra Coupe's to sound like this, if you believe the various Vauxhall/Opel/Holden forums. But no-one is 100% positive on what it might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes get a low oil level warning on my trip computer when the revs have been below 2000rpm for extended periods, like say when I am in top gear in fairly free-flowing traffic, but the level is fine when I do a dipstick test and the car had a major service including oil and cam belt change done less than 3000 miles/5000km ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; This is apparently a fairly common issue with the Z20LET engine found in the Astra Coupe, Astra G OPC/VXR, Zafira OPC/VXR, Astra H GSI/SRi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T07:12:25.510" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T17:18:24.163" Title="Astra Turbo sounding like a diesel" Tags="|engine|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7542" CreationDate="2013-11-05T20:44:17.057" Score="0" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing my homework before getting professional installation with mail-order parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to install a Avatel 4111L in my 2006 Acura TSX.  Avatel (Directed Electronics) Support recommends the Directed Electronics DBALL part as the required bypass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also seeing a Directed Electronics 556U Universal Bypass which can be had for cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the 556U work just as well without any abnormal hacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==============&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I know I said that I was going to get this done professionally, but what would it take for me to install it myself?  I don't particularly trust that the &quot;pros&quot; wouldn't just be learning for the first time on my car too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want the auto start.  If it stays locked while the car is running off the autostart, that's fine with me.  I'd just push the one-button again to stop the car.  Unlock it with factory fob.  Get in.  Start car normally.  (Maybe the car unlocks after &quot;off&quot;, not sure).  The other factory security and door features will not change in behavior.  Right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastEditorUserId="693" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T20:57:43.800" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T02:54:04.557" Title="Cheapest/right bypass for Avatel 4111L remote start. DBALL or the 556U?" Tags="|ignition|security|installation|by-pass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2013-11-05T20:59:30.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely a heater core or as mac suggested a diverter valve of some type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you smell anything unusual when you run the heat now?  If yes, it points more to it being a heater core issue.   I believe you have to completely remove the dash to replace the heater core on your vehicle. So, it would not be cheap if you take it to a shop but also time consuming if you do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore check it there is a valve that might be the source of the problem before you tackle the hard item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T20:59:30.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7540" CreationDate="2013-11-05T21:29:38.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This video pretty much answered everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp0gGRFSZR0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp0gGRFSZR0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T21:29:38.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9071" CreationDate="2013-11-06T12:17:07.000" Score="5" ViewCount="3218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a week ago I noticed in my motorbike unstable rpm, +-300rpm. But today I found that the idle rpm are below 1000rpm, at some points around 500rpm (Normally is 1500rpm). I'm due for the annual maintenance next month and I'm not sure if this problem is because of a sensor, dirty fuel injectors or anything else. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T06:05:38.693" Title="Suzuki GSR600 low idle revs and unstable" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2013-11-06T12:35:27.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly there was no headway to be made and I sold it for scrap value. The garage wanted £700+ to dismantle and inspect the engine. The guy said the last time he'd seen that issue, it turned out to be a worn piston ring. I suggested that surely that ought to cause compression failure which was not evident in his inspection; he agreed, but that was what he found in the previous case and not being able to find anything superficial, the next step is inevitably to look inside. In hindsight and with less stress in my mind I might have considered garaging it and trying to take it apart myself despite having almost no knowledge, as a learning experience. The worst I could have done would still only leave me with a lump of unusable scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T12:35:27.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6882" CreationDate="2013-11-06T13:29:44.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end the mechanic discovered it was caused by bad oil, it was not head gasket problem, just clogged drain on the front end of the engine and nearly clogged in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when the vehicle was tilted forward, the oil failed to drain, and was forced through and burned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="2571" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T14:26:37.177" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T14:26:37.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7547" CreationDate="2013-11-06T14:23:21.413" Score="3" ViewCount="2457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope it's OK to ask this here.  This was the only site I could find related to cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Civic which I got in Nov 2001, so it is fully 12 years old.  However, I've been commuting by train to work since 2005, so the car has only 120,000 miles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs two expensive repairs -- it needs new front struts, and the air conditioning is broken.  Each repair was quoted to me in the $850 range.  It will also need a new clutch (manual transmission) sooner or later, which I'm told will be about the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question I have is ... is it worth spending the money to repair a car of this age?  I don't know how to predict if I will keep this car for another 10 years, or if the engine will fall apart tomorrow.  $850 would be between 2 and 3 payments on a new car, but I don't particularly want a new car (or a new car payment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3928" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T14:48:08.723" Title="How much money to spend maintaining a 12-year-old Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-11-22T21:58:01.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7546" CreationDate="2013-11-06T14:48:08.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 12 year-old Civic with 120,000 miles is very unlikely to have an engine fall apart anytime soon unless it has been poorly maintained and heavily abused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you shopping around on repair quotes and aren't just going to a Honda Dealer for pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of your question is a common situation that edmunds sums up nicely in this article:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/fix-up-or-trade-up.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/fix-up-or-trade-up.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize it, the repair costs you have are not enough to justify replacing the vehicle, there would have to be some other non-economical factors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T14:48:08.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7549" CreationDate="2013-11-06T17:10:59.770" Score="4" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cracked my wing and discovered that there is glue under the wing as if it has been repaired before. The garage I bought the car from is claiming that it is factory fitted and that BMW use glue to fit wings when they build the cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if this is true or if the garage I bought the car from are trying to avoid paying for the repair or not can some one confirm please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted on google groups too but wanted to see if I could get a quicker response here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.autos.bmw/QG9tMGGO5fo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.autos.bmw/QG9tMGGO5fo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3929" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-11-06T18:48:44.567" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T08:39:29.253" Title="Is the wing (AKA fender) on a BMW 335d MSport attached by glue?" Tags="|bmw|body|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7548" CreationDate="2013-11-06T17:45:00.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers do sometimes use epoxy resin (or something like that) to attach spoilers and fenders. Mostly because it doesn't require drilling, which is a weak spot where rust can start to form, but also to form a nice aerodynamic seal. But then, you can never trust a secondhand car dealer and it may be that they had stuck on a wing/fender that had come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: the glue BMW uses is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecstuning.com/ES196859/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BetaLink&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-11-07T08:39:29.253" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T08:39:29.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7526" CreationDate="2013-11-07T14:15:51.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the additional information you have posted, I am in agreement with your initial assessment that a relay or relays are to blame. It sounds like you can get both high and low intensity out of the affected bulb under certain circumstances (high works OK when using the turn signal, and if I understand you correctly, low works OK as a running light when the headlights are on), therefore the wiring to the bulb must be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T14:15:51.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T01:30:09.170" Score="4" ViewCount="53402" Body="&lt;p&gt;F-150, heater will blow hot, then cold and then heat gauge will rise to extreme high, will boil over then gauge will drop to normal.  Just had it flushed and no change.  After driving for about 10-15 minutes at highway speed it doesn't do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3933" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T12:06:47.883" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T17:42:22.597" Title="F-150, heater will blow hot, then cold" Tags="|ford|coolant|cooling-system|f-150|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7557" CreationDate="2013-11-08T11:29:11.967" Score="6" ViewCount="3797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 94 honda accord. Recently ebrake light on the dash shows up even the ebrake handle is down. I tried  to look at the switch on the ebrake and mess with it a little bit. Then the ebrake light comes off on the dash, but when I start pumping the pedal brakes it comes on again.  Is there any problem in the brake pedal switch? I tried turn off the car then turn it on again the ebrake light went off but when I  start pumping the brakes, it shows up again at the dash.  Brake fluid is at maximum level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3934" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T12:02:35.007" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T03:39:14.640" Title="Emergency brake light always on" Tags="|honda|accord|parking-brake|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2013-11-08T12:05:40.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, this is not good for your engine at all, it will create other damage if not taken care of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the thermostat is getting stuck closed and then opening again later.  I would first replace the thermostat and see if it happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T12:05:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7554" CreationDate="2013-11-08T12:51:50.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the point they should be replaced. If the fluid level is within the normal marks on the brake reservoir, the master cylinder may be failing. Many times in the early stages of master cylinder failure the brakes can be recovered by pumping the pedal. This will only work for so long before it catastrophically fails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T12:51:50.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2013-11-08T13:04:08.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is only overheating while idling or in heavy traffic I have a few suggestions. Is the fan shroud still in place it is vital for moving air at low speed. With the radiator cap removed allow it to come to operating temperature. Looking into the radiator you should see the coolant flowing through the radiator. If the coolant is not moving check the thermostat (as jzd suggested). If the flow looks good Check the fan clutch, if equipped. It should spin fairly easy when the engine is cold, but there should be some resistance after the engine has warmed. You of course are doing this test with the engine off. If the flow through the radiator seems sluggish or only a trickle it may be a failing waterpump. I have seen the impeller fins rust to the point they produced little flow but the pump didn't leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T13:04:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T16:48:27.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question about the tensioner assembly for my 2003 Corolla.  At 99,000 miles Toyota replaced the assembly.  This week, after a routine inspection, the same Toyota service shop suggested replacing the tensioner (leakage, according to the advisor) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; timing cover gasket.  At a much higher cost, of course.  My Corolla now has 116,000 miles.  Should I expect the tensioner to need replacing at 17,000 miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3935" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T16:17:05.113" Title="Timing Chain Tensioner Assembly Life Expectancy - 2003 Corolla" Tags="|toyota|corolla|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T12:17:58.387" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Ford Ecosport and it has been only hours old. The dealer told me to drive the car at as slow speed as possible for the first 3 months (not more than 80 kmph) although my car can easily top upto 160kmph. He claims that I need to do this to &quot;settle down&quot; the engine and thus obtaining better mileage at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, this driving-slow-your-new-car a myth or it really gives mileage later when followed properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3938" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T12:17:58.387" Title="New car should run slow for better mileage - Myth or reality?" Tags="|engine|ford|car|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-11-09T21:10:27.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7578" CreationDate="2013-11-09T20:55:22.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;While getting the oil changed on a 2008 Chevy Cobalt, they performed an alignment analysis (and made the change take 1.5 hours longer &gt;.&gt;). The technician printed a report stating my front end had too much toe in. I've search online but couldn't find anyplace stating 0.2 degrees was anything to be worried about, or whether I need to spend some extra cash to get the alignment corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajuOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alignment report&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3939" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T08:32:10.113" Title="2008 Chevy Cobalt Toe In?" Tags="|steering|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T22:55:32.277" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 F350 Diesel will not turn over.  Replaced Fender mounted solenoid and batteries and it still just clicks. Had the starter tested and it tested good.  Still just clicks, could it be the starter solenoid is too weak to work when installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3940" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T13:11:09.300" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:28:34.047" Title="truck will not start" Tags="|ford|starting|f-350|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2013-11-10T00:35:14.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something similar happen to me after I changed the thermostat and flushed out the cooling system.  There was air trapped somewhere in the system and wouldn't show up until I had been driving for around 20 to 40 minutes.  The random nature of the issue threw me until I found out for my van: 1996 Ford Windstar, you have to take the cap off the coolant overflow and let the air work it's way out.  That was what I read in my manual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found out some older cars have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bleed_screw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bleed screw&lt;/a&gt; for this.  In any event, that fixed it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T00:35:14.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7571" CreationDate="2013-11-10T02:43:45.497" Score="3" ViewCount="4196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching this because I figured that I can do this myself. I was able to change the passenger side one once before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the driver side, the battery is in the way so it is impossible to reach inside the hood to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two techniques are on the web:&#xA;(1) Take out the battery and then reach into the hood&#xA;(2) Remove a plastic protective cover from inside the driver-side wheel well to access the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this car used and don't have the code for the radio (if I take out the battery, I will be required to enter a code once I reconnect the battery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how I should proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T18:15:42.010" Title="2003 Honda Accord - driver side low beam light bulb replacement" Tags="|honda|headlight|accord|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7564" CreationDate="2013-11-10T06:25:26.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably lift out the battery without actually removing the terminals (be careful not to short them, though!), or you could attach a supplemental battery with jumper cables while removing the main battery. However, since you'll eventually do something stupid like leaving your headlights on and run down the battery, you should probably figure out how to bypass or reset the radio code. I hear there are websites with that information; perhaps someone more familiar with the topic can fill in the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T06:25:26.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T09:20:21.327" Score="1" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Accord 2003 V6 - I've recently noticed that there's a slight lag from when I depress the gas pedal to feeling the car accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I the mornings when I start the car I hear a &quot;shhhheeshhhhee&quot; sound, especially when I turn the steering wheel to do a K-turn to get out of the driveway/garage area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the two things related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T00:01:11.920" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T08:58:03.037" Title="Diagnose lag in acceleration" Tags="|engine|honda|noise|accord|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T15:56:06.753" Score="1" ViewCount="3128" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Hyundai Sonata, V6, automatic transmission. I've owned the car for a year and a half now without any troubles. Today while driving there was a sudden explosive noise inside the car as if something blew off. I am not sure what this noise could be due to. The car's ac/heater/fan were off.  The car's battery is fairly new (less than a year with 5 year warranty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what that noise could have been due to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1637" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:51:53.847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:51:53.847" Title="What could cause a sudden pop-up (explosion/blow off) noise inside the car while driving?" Tags="|noise|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T19:53:44.510" Score="4" ViewCount="4785" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1998 Honda Civic LX appears to have oil sludge in radiator overflow tank.  Mechanic says I need to replace engine or buy a new car.  What would cause this to happen.  Have been very faithful in car's maintenance over the years and am only owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T13:02:17.143" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T01:43:57.470" Title="oil sludge in my 1998 Honda Civic LX radiator" Tags="|honda|troubleshooting|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T23:07:18.170" Score="7" ViewCount="73594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 jeep cheerokee sport. The air conditioning coolant leaks. After doing some diagnostics, I detected audibly a hissing sound coming from the low input port, leading me to believe the schrader valve is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine which valve core remover tool fits my vehicle? I have found one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000KITSMI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mastercool&lt;/a&gt; and one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002G1UNUS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Interdynamics&lt;/a&gt;. I am pretty sure I bought one of these before and it didnt work, because it supposed that the car had a thread around the outside of the low input port for it to &quot;connect to&quot;, whereas on the jeep, there is no thread on the outside of the port, its actually on the inside of the port, as pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ub4Yd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leaking low input port&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I have read that instead of replacing the valve, you can simply use plumbers tape around the inside of the cap, and an &quot;o-ring&quot; (though where that goes I dont know). If I took this approach (instead of using the valve core tool) how would I get plumbers tape inside the port (or inside the cap) around the threads, since theres so little space? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQGhi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low input port cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, how do I find the correct &quot;o-ring&quot; and how would I install it? I've read people do this with metal caps but I only found plastic ones for my jeep online and at my auto store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 11/13&lt;/strong&gt;: Upon further inspection, it appears that the O-Ring is on the inside of the schrader valve cap. Any tips on getting it out? &lt;a href=&quot;http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?176040-Schrader-Valve-or-Cap-What-s-the-seal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I've read that the cap and this ring is what provides the definitive seal&lt;/a&gt;, so if I replace this, I'm guessing it can do as a work-around solution. Ideally though I'd like to do both (replace the o-ring and the valve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="6626" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T20:06:23.547" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T17:19:41.763" Title="How to fix leaking air conditioning schrader valve" Tags="|ac|jeep|leak|cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7564" CreationDate="2013-11-10T23:32:26.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ask at your local auto parts store you should be able to purchase a &quot;settinigs saver&quot;. one type is basically a 9 volt battery and an adapter that plugs into the power outlet/cigarette lighter. The 9V battery maintains the settings until the battery is reconnected. Another type has two power plugs, one plugs into the power outlet and the other end plugs into another vehicle or a portable jumpstarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T23:32:26.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7573" CreationDate="2013-11-11T00:51:24.777" Score="6" ViewCount="6611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have driven my car since ~84,000 miles. As stated below, I have replaced the front passenger tire for slow leaks twice. The other tires haven't been replaced since I started driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking forward to replace all four tires. However, a friend made a suggestion that I replace only my two front tires since I have a front-wheel drive car. I am able to replace all four tires, but I am interested in the benefit of doing so vs. replacing only my front two tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What benefits will I gain through replacing all four tires vs. replacing my front two tires? Is it worthwhile (cost vs. benefit) to replace my two back tires if I only replace my front two tires on my front-wheel drive car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specifications&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2004 Dodge Stratus SXT sedan 4-dr, &lt;strong&gt;front-wheel drive&lt;/strong&gt;, 2.4L DOHC 4-cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Size: 205-R60-16&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires: Goodyear Eagle LS (front passenger tire is a twice replaced Douglas Xtra Trac for slow leaks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current Mileage: ~126,500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3944" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T20:13:29.127" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T14:43:07.023" Title="Replacing four tires or two front tires on a front-wheel drive car" Tags="|tires|replace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2013-11-11T02:04:16.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see if I understand your situation correctly: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All of your tires have well over 40000 miles on them.  I've never sold a car with brand new tires on it so I'd suspect that those tires are quite old indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of your tires is a Douglas Xtra Trac.  It's telling that tire-rack.com doesn't even list this brand for me to refer to its rated mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given the information in the original question, this seems to be what you're proposing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;New tires in the front of an FWD car.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Old and worn (possible &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; old and worn) tires in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I wouldn't do this.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might make sense, thinking that the front wheels pull the car and steer.  However, under braking, you're going to have a vehicle that's significantly (if not extremely) biased towards the front: you just won't have the grip in the back that you do in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this bad?  Imagine an curving on-ramp where you're merrily zooming up to speed.  For some reason, the vehicle in front of you suddenly brakes hard: the deer are really out around here so it could happen.  You're naturally also going to brake hard (or eat his rear bumper) while your steering wheel is turned into the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: the weight will transfer off the back wheels (where it was during acceleration), onto the front.  Those wheels have great grip = more weight + new tires.  The rear tires have low grip = less weight + bald tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequence: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lift-off_oversteer&quot;&gt;drop-trottle oversteer&lt;/a&gt; possibly leading to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble&quot;&gt;tank-slapper&lt;/a&gt;.  There's a good chance that you're going to go backwards off the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T02:04:16.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2013-11-11T12:03:59.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the OBD CAN bus is 'bridged' onto the other CAN buses of the vehicle, in order to facilitate diagnostics of ECUs on the other buses.  However, the bridge may only pass diagnostic messages onwards :(  It's different on every platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the protocol - it's a classic reverse engineering problem.  You need to capture a few traces of the CAN activity when you press the unlock button and figure out what the format of the messages is.  Your headlight example may indicate that there are multiple buses and you only have access to one of them (which goes to the dashboard unit, and not to the headlamps in this case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the door locks - it's quite possible there is also some kind of challenge-response going on which stops your simple &quot;replay-attack&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3946" LastEditorUserId="3946" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T16:33:40.580" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T16:33:40.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T12:58:47.850" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced rear rotors, calipers, pads, hardware.  One wheel was making noise as I test drove it.  I found the rotor had some scratches closer to the inside but other than the pad I couldn't find what might be scraping it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I moved the rotor and pads to the other wheel.  The sound moved as well.  Then I swapped rotors again and the noise moved. I put in the old rotor and no noise.  So it is definitely something up with the rotor.  I am currently concluding that the rotor is defective, but wanted to know if anyone had any other theories or anything else I can check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2007 Subaru Outback XT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T12:47:47.430" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T12:47:47.430" Title="New Rotor making noise after installation" Tags="|noise|subaru|brake-rotor|outback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7568" CreationDate="2013-11-11T13:07:48.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any other symptoms or issues, I would assume you just ran over something that your tire threw into the body of your car.  Like a piece of a re-tread tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look under the hood for anything that looks out of place and check under the car for any fluid that might be leaking.  If you don't find anything just keep driving and pay attention for anything unusual, just in case it is something other than road debris. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T13:07:48.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2013-11-11T13:23:36.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found these specs here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14840019-toe_in_specs_2005_cobalt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fixya.com/cars/t14840019-toe_in_specs_2005_cobalt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an 2005 so it might not be perfectly the same as a 2008, but the specs have 0.20 as correct with a tolerance of 0.20 either direction.  That makes me think you are right on spec and do not need an alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;KEY: ± = plus or minus; C/t = Cross Tolerances; Toe T= total toe; S/W A = steering wheel angle Thrust A = thrust angle&#xA;__________________________________________________ ________________________&#xA;Suspenion.......Camber.....Camber C/t.....Caster......Caster C/t...toe T.....S/W A.....Thrust A&#xA;FE1&#xA;Front ..............-1.00º .......±0.75º ......... 3.00º.......±0.75º.........0.20º......0.00º...... - -&#xA;.....................±0.75º ..........- -.............±0.75º...........- - ........±0.20º ....±3.50º ......- -&#xA;__________________________________________________ ________________________&#xA;&#xA;Rear...............-0.80º ........... - - .............. - - ........... - - ......... 0.25º ...... - -.......0.00º&#xA;.....................±0.75º.............- - ............. - - ........... - -..........±0.30º ...... - - ... ±0.30º&#xA;__________________________________________________ ________________________&#xA;-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;FE3 &amp;amp; FE5&#xA;Front............... -1.05º ......±0.75º...........3.65º..........±0.75º ..... 0.20º .....0.00º .....- -&#xA;......................±0.75º ......... - - .......... ±0.75º ............- -........±0.20º....±3.50º..... - -&#xA;__________________________________________________ ________________________&#xA;&#xA;Rear................-0.80º............- -............. - - ..............- -..........0.25º.......- -........0.00º&#xA;......................±0.75º ...........- - ............ - - ..............- -........±0.30º.......- -.......±0.30º&#xA;__________________________________________________ ________________________&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T13:23:36.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7596" CreationDate="2013-11-11T19:22:15.120" Score="2" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sound stops when I press it down or hold it more up.&#xA;The car is in Finland now so there is something like minus &lt;strong&gt;-5 celcius&lt;/strong&gt; which causes the problem when the car is kept outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will record the sound soon and add it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 95-year Volvo 850 which has been hold before this winter in a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can be the cause of the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T12:26:25.247" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T11:38:17.633" Title="Strange sound of Clutch when it is up and when starting the car from cold" Tags="|clutch|volvo|cold-start|850|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T19:38:08.467" Score="2" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently hit a deer and it broke the top two brackets that are holding the headlight in place.  The brackets are actually plastic and are integrated (plastic welded?) into the light housing.  To avoid buying a new light, since there is nothing other than the brackets that are broken, I was contemplating to fabricate my own from aluminum sheet metal (which I have left over from some home remodeling) and screw them into the top of the light housing.  My only concern is how to watertight the hole:  are there small washer gaskets I can get or should I apply silicon or something third?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T16:01:06.197" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:01:06.197" Title="Repair broken headlight mounting bracket 2007 Toyota Tacoma" Tags="|toyota|headlight|gasket|screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7576" CreationDate="2013-11-11T21:26:28.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where did you buy the rotors? They could have been sitting for a while. Sometimes when you buy rotors from a discount auto parts store it is a really good idea to have them shaved a little first. Especially the cheaper brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T21:26:28.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7582" CreationDate="2013-11-11T22:45:46.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to avoid drilling a hole in the housing. If you can epoxy the bracket to the headlamp shell. If you drill a few small holes in the bracket the epoxy can push through and will adhere better. Be sure the light is aligned before everything sets up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:45:46.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7593" CreationDate="2013-11-12T15:34:50.307" Score="1" ViewCount="4774" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car: Toyota Camry 1994 LE, 4 cyl, 4 door sedan. What is the type of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T18:00:39.990" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T23:48:02.340" Title="How do I determine if my Toyota Camry 1994 LE has a 5S-FE or 1MZ-FE engine?" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7590" CreationDate="2013-11-12T16:31:41.747" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;99 Ford Windstar. I kept water in all summer or else it ran hot. Been trying to get antifreeze in through the top because I had no money to pay to find and fix problem, now since cooler outside, water wont go down for me to get antifreeze in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3952" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T17:58:26.763" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T04:31:00.933" Title="In Columbus, Ohio. 28 degrees out for last 9 hrs. Only water in radiator.Can I start and drive safely?" Tags="|ford|coolant|windstar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7587" CreationDate="2013-11-12T16:37:02.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_%28VIN_codes%29/Toyota/VIN_Codes#VIN_format_2009&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIN number&lt;/a&gt;?  There's a good chance that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_%28VIN_codes%29/Toyota/VIN_Codes#Engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5th character&lt;/a&gt; will answer your question: a &lt;code&gt;G&lt;/code&gt; for a 5S-FE or an &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; for a 1MZ-FE.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those codes are valid in the US after 1996.  Your mileage may vary depending on your location and from where the car was originally sourced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T16:37:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7588" CreationDate="2013-11-12T17:56:12.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding antifreeze to water in your radiator will not make it run hot, unless you are have a very high portion of antifreeze to water.   Antifreeze/coolant raises the boiling point of water to keep it from boiling out and lowers the freezing point to keep it from freezing up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is full of water now and there is no room for antifreeze.  Then drain the radiator and refill with the correct mixture of antifreeze and water.   This should not only help your cooling issue but also will prevent it from freezing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the current state of your car, if it is parked near a building or somewhere that might prevent it from being as cold, you might be ok.  In any case start it and don't drive anywhere until it has proven that it can maintain a solid temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T17:56:12.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7587" CreationDate="2013-11-12T18:38:15.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Toyota model of that vintage have a data plate on the firewall inside the engine compartment (my 1987 Land Cruiser have one) which list model number, paint color, transmission and engine number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the details&lt;/a&gt; and seems that prior 1989 models have the engine model on the data plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaOal.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T19:07:58.317" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T19:07:58.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-12T20:17:24.837" Score="4" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommendation on how often you should replace plastic ramps? If the ramps look visibly damaged or warped it would make sense to buy a new pair, but I'm curious if the structural integrity of these kind of ramps degrade with age and thus require replacement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastEditorUserId="3953" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T20:57:02.047" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T02:41:06.807" Title="When should you replace plastic constructed ramps?" Tags="|maintenance|tools|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7587" CreationDate="2013-11-12T23:48:02.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many cylinders does it have?  The 5S-FE is a straight four cylinder engine.  The 1MZ-FE is a V6 engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3954" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T23:48:02.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7592" CreationDate="2013-11-13T02:41:06.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it will vary based on storage conditions and exposure to UV light. This type of damage is often hidden and undetectable. The key problem might be that they will fail with out notice. If they are 10 years old I would replace them for safety sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T02:41:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2013-11-13T08:09:13.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to upjet your carbs, but you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; if you wanted to. Because straight pipes can handle a larger volume of exhaust, you can tweak your carbs to allow more air/fuel into your engine to &lt;em&gt;produce&lt;/em&gt; more exhaust. It's part of the fun, but entirely optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a different story with electronic fuel injection though. EFI engines constantly monitor exhaust gases and readjust the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing to allow for optimal efficiency. An uprated exhaust would cause the EFI to freak out, especially if the catalytic converter was upgraded or removed completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that applies to carbs however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T08:09:13.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7581" CreationDate="2013-11-13T11:38:17.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect a worn clutch release bearing, or spigot bearing. How old is the clutch? Both bearings should be replaced when the clutch is replaced, and if it is the original clutch, they are now 18 years old...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T11:38:17.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4142" CreationDate="2013-11-13T13:16:03.357" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain sprocket is damaged, it creates a irritating noice and the mileage also drops by 6-8 kms...&#xA;So itz better to change the chain sprocket as soon as possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T13:16:03.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2013-11-13T15:07:21.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly what will happen if there is air trapped in the cooling system (especially the heater core).  There are other possible causes, but this is common after a poorly done coolant change.  If you had a shop change the coolant, they should have purged (&quot;burped&quot; I guess) the air from the system before returning it to you.  (It sounds like you already checked that the thermostat isn't upside down, but I don't think it even fits in the wrong way on at least the modern 5.4 liter engine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a swell video of how to do this, if you are doing it yourself:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/zUpXgAJ1gjU?t=1m10s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/zUpXgAJ1gjU?t=1m10s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In print:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a freestanding funnel to fill radiator and overflow tank, using&#xA;bleeder screw if it exists. (I don't think it does on F-150s).   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the heater control to the highest temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping a funnel full of coolant on the radiator, run the engine at&#xA;2,500 RPM for 10 minutes or so.  It should suck down some more&#xA;coolant during the run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After turning off the engine, make sure the radiator is still completely full, and the overflow tank is filled only to the &quot;full&quot; mark. Check (you can use your hand, carefully) the temperature of the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the temperature of the incoming and outgoing heater core hoses.  They should all be hot.  If one is cool, the coolant isn't circulating somewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cap it up and drive happily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will say that the overflow tank should take care of this during normal driving, but having attempted quickie coolant changes on a wide variety of vehicles, I've found that to often not work.  The above procedure has worked for me on dozens of cars, except on one horrible Japanese car where I had to loosen the heater outlet hose to get all the air out.  Sheesh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T15:07:21.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T16:03:49.923" Score="4" ViewCount="4983" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has been overheating badly. I took it to Auto Zone and hooked it up to the check engine tool and they said it was getting to 207 withing 10 seconds. It gets hot fast and my heat doesn't work unless you drive like 80 and you can smell antifreeze bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said it could be my etc sensor or a faulty thermostat. But I changed the thermostat and bled it and it still gets hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing the overheating issues? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3958" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T18:59:06.543" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T18:40:25.613" Title="Overheating 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7189" CreationDate="2013-11-13T17:23:07.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same thing happened to my '00 Tundra.  Locking pawl got stuck when it was engaged.  There was sand/grit/goo in the mechanism.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't know if the setup is the same, but undo the 3 bolts on the belt reel cover, clean the locking mechanism (I used WD-40, rags and an old toothbrush), regrease and reinstall the cover.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T17:23:07.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7611" CreationDate="2013-11-13T17:28:10.703" Score="6" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a couple of strange problems and I can't really make sense of it. When I parked the car, I locked the doors as always with the windows closed (I am absolutely sure about this; it was freezing cold outside). When I came back, the car was still locked, but the front windows were down. I immediately checked whether anything was stolen, but that was not the case and there were also no signs of forced entry. When I wanted to start the car, I had a left rear light warning, but all rear lights (brake light and indicators included) still worked perfectly. 5 minutes later, the warning went away, only to come back on when I started the car the next time (it's still active now). Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I should also mention that I have had some 'mild' engine problems with, what I believe to be irregular fuel injection (which I have already addressed by this time and it seems to have helped), but I cannot see how this engine problem could be related to windows coming down on their own and a faulty rear light warning, which is more electronics related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="3474" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T19:12:07.793" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T07:57:10.183" Title="Bmw E46: strange problems with automatically closing windows and broken light warning" Tags="|electrical|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T19:52:55.977" Score="3" ViewCount="14862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went and had my 06 Cobalt checked out because the dreeded check engine light came one and I got the P0420 threshold bank 1 code. My mechanic, who has been a good friend of mine for quite some time, told me I needed to replace my B1S1 sensor from what the diagnostics showed. He even showed me on the machine it was not flunctuating, or even being read, like it normally should. So after having the part replaced and having it checked out agian on diagnostics machine everything checked out fine. So I drove my car around to reset my computer and my check engine light came on after +-100 miles. So I went back and had it checked again and I still was getting the P0420 threshold bank 1 code. So I called the auto parts store to check if I was given the right sensor and they confermed I was. So what else could be causing my car to still get the code even after everything checked out fine in the beginning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3960" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:51:46.807" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T11:54:30.837" Title="06 Chevy Cobalt ls 2.2 l . Replaced B1S1 O2 sensor still having issues" Tags="|chevrolet|cobalt|p0420|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2013-11-13T20:31:08.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the O2 sensor is replaced then the code could also be caused by a bad engine coolant temp sens. (Don't ask me how, fun thing about Cobalts). Before you buy that, also look for manifold and exhaust leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T20:31:08.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7599" CreationDate="2013-11-13T20:33:11.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is liquid under the car it could very well be a bad water pump. If the water pump isn't working, coolant won't be sent. Be sure to check for leaks around the water pump. Also look around all the radiator hoses, if a clamp cut through the hose or its loose you could be loosing necessary pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T20:33:11.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2013-11-13T23:33:09.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an unwanted passage between your oil system and your cooling system.  Probably the most common cause of that is a head gasket with a leak between the two, which could be caused by high compression/detonation (there are several possible causes for that including incorrect ignition timing, low octane gasoline), an engine overheat, uneven head bolt torques and/or a defective head gasket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a cracked engine block.  That could be caused by uneven heating/cooling (an overheat could do it), or from inadequate freeze protection resulting in frozen coolant in very cold weather, or other mechanical defect.  If it is a cracked engine block, I think you really are in for an engine replacement.  Even a head gasket replacement is expensive (~$1,000) on overhead cam engines, which Hondas all are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you replace the head gasket or engine or car, this Steel Seal stuff might be worth a try.  Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/3suQy44G_B0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Scotty Kilmer video&lt;/a&gt; on that.  I've had it help on an older BMW, the only car I tried it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to figure out whether it really is a blown head gasket or not, here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/QA7KVQq9vKA?t=10s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scotty Kilmer video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrating a test kit, but if there's oil sludge in your coolant, you definitely have some problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T23:33:09.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7599" CreationDate="2013-11-14T00:02:31.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the antifreeze smell, I suspect a leak in your cooling system.  Get yourself a radiator pressure tester.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001U788FG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$70 from Amazon&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/radiator-pressure-tester-kit-69258.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$80 from Harbor Freight&lt;/a&gt; or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Auto-Radiator-Pressure-Tester/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;make your own&lt;/a&gt;).  Pressurize your radiator and see a) if you are losing pressure, and b) where the coolant/air is escaping when you pressurize the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that your cooling system is still sealed, but coolant isn't circulating properly.  (The antifreeze smell could be because the cap releases excess pressure when hot, as it should.) Because you already changed the thermostat and bled the system, the remaining causes of non-circulation include a failed water pump which usually (but doesn't always) leaks, and a clogged or worn out radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, does the radiator fan come on when your car heats up?  The electric fan motor can eventually burn out.  Test that by hooking up a wire between the battery positive and the fan motor positive terminal, which should make the fan spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T00:02:31.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-14T06:30:18.070" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the steering wheel more than 30 degrees one way or the other, I start to hear a zzzzhhhhhh sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing the sound? How would I go about diagnosing what is causing the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My steering fluid level is adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Recently, I've also noticed that while parking, especially if I put it into reverse, the steering wheel is really hard to turn (more so near the end of the turning range...and it is not due to the fact that my tire is being blocked by the curb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="876" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T08:16:22.150" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T08:16:22.150" Title="2003 Honda Accord V6 - steering sounds" Tags="|honda|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7610" CreationDate="2013-11-14T08:55:40.877" Score="3" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 97 Subaru Legacy. The engine was resealed with mostly new parts within the last 6 months. The oil was changed recently. The battery is 2 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I get NO TROUBLE, ever, whatsoever, with starting this car. Ever. Period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the temperature dropped abruptly the past few days though, up here in Boston, suddenly my car is taking 3-5 attempts before the engine turns over. As soon as I put the key in, all the lights turn on-- the battery &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be fine-- and if the car runs for a little while and is then turned off, it starts again effortlessly. It's just the cold start that's a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wwhen I first turn the key, it just clicks. Same with the second try. The third try usually gets a brief sound from the engine, and the 4th or 5th is successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to combat this? What could be wrong? Is there a solution? I didn't have this problem last winter. And new cars don't have this problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T12:52:35.433" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T12:59:52.163" Title="Car not starting easily in the cold?" Tags="|ignition|subaru|cold-start|legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2013-11-14T11:50:28.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2011 Ford Focus TDCi 115 engine (same, I assume in your Mondeo econetic) and we are currently having our slave cylinder and clutch plates changed. The car is on 35,000 miles and has previously had the clutch master cylinder replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to many Ford forums, it is very common on these new 1.6 TDCi 115 engines to have clutch related issues. Therefore, I would try to prove that this is common to them through forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Matthew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3964" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T11:50:28.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7608" CreationDate="2013-11-14T12:59:52.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 areas to focus on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery: Make sure your battery can still hold a charge well as cold is going to show problems first.   Double check that your battery cables are tight and not overly corroded. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter: As Bob asked, if the starter is the original it could be going bad and struggling under only tough conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical/Ignition Switch:  If there other two items appear fine, then you might need to look to your ignition switch or something else on the electrical end that could just be having trouble in the cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T12:59:52.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7601" CreationDate="2013-11-14T13:13:08.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a problem with a module.  There is a feature in most BMW's that rolls down all the windows when the unlock button is held but if you are sure you didn't do that then it could be a module.  (Note: some BMWs relock if no doors are open after a specified time period).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you also had incorrect rear light warnings at the same time, I would suggest trying to find if the same module does both and if so replace it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T13:13:08.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7616" CreationDate="2013-11-14T20:56:51.890" Score="11" ViewCount="181603" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2013 Honda Fit has been for the past few weeks or so invariably showing me the cold engine light (a blue thermometer with the letter C) when I start it up before or after work (or most other times). I looked in the manual to see what exactly this means, but all it says is something like &quot;the engine is cold&quot; without any more information as to what I should do about it. It turns itself off after a couple minutes of driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume this information is relevant to &lt;em&gt;something,&lt;/em&gt; or else they wouldn't have bothered to make a light for it, but I haven't been able to figure out what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3967" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T16:22:02.580" Title="What is the cold engine light really telling me?" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2013-11-14T21:46:38.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking several Fit forums it means the engine is cold. What this means for you is that the engine has not reached operating temperature so drive it responsibly, no jack rabbit starts, no high revs, no high loads etc. I would assume the light would stay on in event of a defective thermostat or stuck fan relay, essentially over cooling the engine According to some complaints on the forums there is no temperature gauge in some models just a cold light that goes out shortly after start up and a high temp light you hope only lights up on initial start up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T21:46:38.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2013-11-15T09:01:02.413" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines run safely and effectively in a temperature range which is actually fairly narrow. The temperature gauge (or cold and hot indicator lights) typically measure the temperature of the engine coolant itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is first started, the engine is cold, and oil will need time to heat up and achieve good flow for lubrication. Until that temperature is reached, the engine is more susceptible to damage at high revs or under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guidance is to drive relatively gently until the low temp light goes out. In a highly tuned car, with tighter tolerances, this is even more important. So treat it as a gentle warning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it comes on again while driving, this usually means there is a major problem with your coolant - typically that it has leaked out of the engine entirely so the sensor doesn't read anything! What happens next is that the engine rapidly overheats, destroying the cylinder head gasket, and soon after - the engine itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T12:06:28.667" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T12:06:28.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-15T17:31:09.293" Score="4" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving my wife's automatic '66 Dodge Dart 270 (slant-6) for about a mile when I heard a loud CRACK and the engine almost stalled, but then it immediately seemed fine.  I looked in the rearview mirror to see if something had fallen off, but didn't see anything abnormal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About another 4 miles later, I heard two more loud CRACKS in rapid succession, the car again seemed like it was going to stall, and this time I saw a puff of black smoke in the rearview mirror.  Now I don't remember what exactly happened next, but I remember thinking it seemed like the powertrain suddenly didn't have as much power (I suppose maybe it downshifted and slowed down).  After this, I parked it as soon as I could, which was about half a mile later.  When I popped the hood, nothing seemed particularly out-of-the-ordinary except that one end of the bungee strap that was holding the battery was loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping the CRACK sounds were just the bungee strap coming loose, but I don't know how it could have made the sound three times...I would have expected the strap could only come loose and whack around once, and I wouldn't have expected it to cause the engine to almost stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hesitant to take it to the shop unless I can reliably reproduce the issue or something is obviously and visibly broken.  I've also been trying to learn to fix my car myself.  What are some things I should check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More background (may or may not be relevant):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil was last changed in the spring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been driving the car in-town 10 miles round-trip to and from work for about half of the summer, otherwise we were only driving it occasionally (maybe once a month on average).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car usually has trouble starting on the first try.  It'll start and immediately stall.  If it's warm out, I can pump the gas pedal once and it starts up fine.  Otherwise, it might take a couple more tries and I have to let it warm up for 30 sec. to a minute before I can drive off (otherwise it stalls as soon as I put it in gear and push on the gas).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car was almost out of gas a couple days ago when I put in 6 gal, so it should have still had 4-5 gal.  (though a few months ago I'm pretty sure someone tried siphoning gas from all our cars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I fill it with 87 octane (non-ethanol) gas because otherwise the engine stalls a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes when pulling away from a stop sign or light, the engine sputters and &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; stalls, then suddenly goes back to running fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power brake booster has been removed, so it has &quot;manual&quot; brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't used the parking brake recently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3717" LastEditorUserId="3717" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T02:43:59.153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:27:44.900" Title="'66 Dodge Dart made a loud CRACK, engine almost stalled. The second time it happened, there was a puff of black smoke" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-15T19:10:21.820" Score="2" ViewCount="26193" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Ford Ranger has no heat when I turn it on, but the COLD A/C works beautifully? All of the sudden the heat stopped working. It doesn't get humid or tepid at all, just no heat. What can I look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, it's not electrical, it's a manual knob.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BD0YK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T01:09:20.443" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T02:20:40.780" Title="2007 Ford Ranger no heat" Tags="|ford|heat|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7617" CreationDate="2013-11-16T03:12:40.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look around the battery terminal and the fender and see if there are any sign of arcing. The loose battery may have shorted to the frame killing the ignition power and then moving away restoring things to normal. The black smoke may be from the unburned fuel drawn thru the carb causing a rich mixture on restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T03:12:40.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7328" CreationDate="2013-11-16T11:48:25.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the first things to check for when you have a post cat bias towards lean is the operation of the front sensor, together with front sensor fuel trim. If the front sensor is not working correctly and the NOx sensor reports lean then your answer is to replace the front sensor (pre-Cat). If the front sensor is working OK, then you have a faulty NOx sensor. Before replacing the sensor, can you get a garage to check your NOx emissions on a repair grade exhaust analyser to confirm NOx readings. All of the above assumes no system damage and intact wiring. The NOx sensor comes with a built in module which is usually system tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T11:48:25.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6924" CreationDate="2013-11-16T12:07:03.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;induction coils&quot; all over the place in a modern vehicle doing measuring jobs for the various systems involved. In the steering lock/columm assembly, there is an induction coil which reads the coding on the cars key(s) and allows the immobilser to be turned off. If this coil fails in any way the immobiser stays active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:07:03.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6651" CreationDate="2013-11-16T12:36:37.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the starter turns over slowly or not at all it simply means the starter is not getting enough voltage/amperage to operate correctly. Using a voltmeter on battery TERMINALS not cables - have an assisstant crank the engine. The voltage should not drop below 9v-9.5v. If the battery voltage stays up above 9v, then you have a resistance in the circuit. With the voltmeter check for a voltage drop on both sides of the circuit.&#xA;ie Earth side: Battery POST to cable at the battery, battery post to cable at the earthing end, usually on the engine, battery post to engine. Power side: Battery POST to its cable, battery post to starter terminal. You need to make sure that there is continuity in the whole cicuit. Clean dirty connections, tighten loose connections. The fault in resistive connection shows up by a large voltage drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:36:37.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2013-11-16T12:54:16.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you drive uphill you will be increasing the load on the engine. The spark plugs will need a higher secondry voltage to (KV) to fire. The extra voltage demand will stress the system. Any weakness such as plug lead insulation, rotor arm and cap insulation, coil pack servicibility, spark plug condition will show up by leaking. An Old Hands trick is too have the engine running in a dark place and have someone snap the throttle open. Any external leakage will show up in the dark as blue flashes to earth.&#xA;In drive the engine carries the load of the transmission, in neutral it does'nt. The load slows the engine speed. Modern vehicles have a device, Idle Control Valve which maintains a set idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T12:54:16.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3053" CreationDate="2013-11-16T13:42:45.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this engine speed the EGR valve is operated. A slow operation, caused by exhaust debris will cause this to happen. A second symptom would be intermittant rough idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T13:42:45.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7601" CreationDate="2013-11-16T13:51:52.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW bulb holders are well known to overheat and deteriorate from the heat. Remove the bulb holders, one at a time and check for discolouration. Replace them if so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T13:51:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2013-11-16T14:09:45.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving the vehicle would not destroy the clutch slave cylinder(Concentric Slave Cylinder). &#xA;Leakage from the CSC would cause the gears to be increaseingly hard to engage. An abrupt and sudden failure to be able to engage gears would mean the CSC has failed totally. Fleet hire companies buy their vehicles with three year warranties.&#xA;Ford have had trouble with their CSC's and have changed their specifications several times.&#xA;Who ever authorised the work to be carried out is responsible to pay the bill.&#xA;Simples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T14:09:45.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2013-11-16T14:20:43.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The code P0420 is &quot;Catalyst Efficiency below threshhold&quot;&#xA;First check the exhaust gases on a emissions gas tester. If the CO2 and CO together are less than around 14.5% with the engine in good condition, no faults- then you are looking at a defective cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T14:20:43.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7572" CreationDate="2013-11-16T14:43:07.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compromising on tyres is never a good idea. Look at the DOT code. (Word DOT on tyre wall, followed by 4 numbers ie DOT 2604) The first two of the numbers give you the week and the second two give you the year of manufacture. Twenty-sixth week, 2004 in the example.&#xA;A tyre that has done seven years and even though its may still have tread and be undamaged is a tyre to change for new. Keep a balance on an axle with tread depth and tyre age always.&#xA;The lacquer finish on wheel rims allow air to escape out of the tyre when corroded. If the wheel is in good condition otherwise, wire brush the lacquer to remove it where corroded and apply bead sealant all around the beading seat to prevent air loss. Any good tyre shop will do this. BUT, if the tyre has been run under inflated scrap the tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T14:43:07.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7635" CreationDate="2013-11-16T14:51:40.713" Score="4" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father in law continually reminds me to check my antifreeze when it starts getting cold. I get the squeeze tester out and it always shows everything is fine. We drive cars that are always less than 10 years old. Is this testing necessary or a hold over from days gone by? One other thing that may be worth noting is that we live in Tennessee so it gets cold, but seldom below zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3976" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T15:34:53.990" Title="Is coolant testing necessary on modern vehicles?" Tags="|maintenance|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2959" CreationDate="2013-11-16T15:03:19.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an air leak on the EVAP system then the MAP sensor will not be able to determine the air density, and the MAF sensor will not be able to determine the volume of air, entering the engine correctly. This will lead to an over fuelling situation AND an under fuelling situation depending on the size of the air leak and engine operating speeds and load. The end result will be destruction of the catalytic convertor. This is not too mention any fire hazard that may present itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T15:03:19.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7562" CreationDate="2013-11-16T15:16:09.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try turning the engine over manually- say a socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley nut. If the engine will rotate then you have got to go through the battery/battery cables, both live and power for continuity/starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T15:16:09.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2013-11-16T15:34:53.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical engine coolant not only contains antifreeze but also corrosion inhibitors that deteriorate with age. It will always be better to know that something is OK rather than quess it is. We still check our engine oil level even though cars today use very little oil-don't we!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T15:34:53.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1240" CreationDate="2013-11-16T16:08:34.293" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the advent of electronics into cars and engine controls the Good Old Days of souping them up has gone. Vehicle manufacturers cover millions of miles and thousands of hours of testing to turn out that shiny new motor you see in the showroom window. You would need to spend tens of thousands of pounds on equipment such as dynometers and computers to even make a dent in improving them and then you have got public liability.Allan-UK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T16:08:34.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2013-11-16T16:30:11.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say your car is upto date with its servicing, and maintenance too. Your car is now older and more worn then it was when you first got it. It can only be less efficient in itself. Now you can either spend money on changing all manner of bits and pieces on your car or spend your money on a new fuel efficient car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T16:30:11.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2013-11-16T16:59:59.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking my car to Honda, the batter was no longer holding a charge.  The replaced the batter but then needed to re program the keys.  Apparently this was the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3023" LastEditorUserId="3023" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T20:00:44.207" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T20:00:44.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7525" CreationDate="2013-11-16T17:10:47.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a noise typical to Volkswagens. It is the starter motor. The starter motor extends into the bell housing of the gearbox. The extension on the starter acts as a support for the front of the starter motor. It runs in a bushing which becomes dry over time. You can either ignore it, or remove the starter motor and with a long artists brush and put copper based grease into the bush, then refit the starter. The noise is the starter slowing down and chattering in the bush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="3915" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T10:52:42.710" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T10:52:42.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2013-11-16T17:18:08.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The insrument panel of your Golf is part of the engine ECU system. Because of the security systems imbedded into your car, you will need to go to a VW main dealer or VW authorised repairer to do any work on this system. An authorised repairer will be able to log into VW systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T17:18:08.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7414" CreationDate="2013-11-16T17:33:33.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question mentions having 'belts' changed. If the problem was not there before the belts were changed, and the problem involves overheating, then it is very likely that one of the belts changed was the cam belt. If the engine was not timed properly with a new cambelt fitted this would cause your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T17:33:33.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7394" CreationDate="2013-11-16T17:42:32.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the vehicle in question have a Condition Report by a local garage ,or a visiting vehicle inspector. Otherwise you could end up spending big money on a 10 year old heap. No workshop manual ever written can take the place of a trained and experienced technician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T17:42:32.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-16T19:12:35.907" Score="1" ViewCount="2989" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have a cable or hydraulic operated clutch in my Vauxhall Astra 1.7 diesel 2005 model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3977" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T19:15:32.490" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:15:32.490" Title="Cable or hydraulic clutch on a 2005 Vauxhall Astra" Tags="|clutch|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-17T00:55:57.293" Score="2" ViewCount="93159" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start the engine it was showing me that the coolant level is low. I did buy a mixed antifreeze and put on top of the other. Like in 5 miles when I stopped I did hear a strange noise. I opened the bonnet lid and saw that my coolant is boiling and in a few seconds all was gone by the overflow. Can someone advise please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3978" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T05:30:16.200" Title="Coolant boiling" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-17T09:02:16.850" Score="5" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda ek civic 96 model vti-R. Can't seem to turn the car on, battery is still in good as I bought it a month ago. Tried to turn the car on but there is no crank what so ever, just the lights and headunit coming on. There is no noise from the engine region when I crank. When I turn the car to &quot;on&quot; I can hear the fuel being pumped but when I crank, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3979" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T03:11:30.737" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T03:11:30.737" Title="Car will not start. ek civic 1996" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7643" CreationDate="2013-11-17T10:07:39.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I knew, but I'm not 100% sure. What you can do is open your bonnet and look at the gearbox. If there's a steel cable operating the clutch mechanism, you have a cable clutch. If it's a solid piece of steel, it's a hydraulic clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not immediately clear where these things are, have someone operate the clutch and gearbox while you have the bonnet open. The things that move will be your clutch and gear mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Turns out it's a hydraulic clutch: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php/694456-Astra-h-1-7-cdti-clutch-fail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php/694456-Astra-h-1-7-cdti-clutch-fail&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T12:58:11.550" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T12:58:11.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7644" CreationDate="2013-11-17T10:21:26.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely have trapped air in your coolant/antifreeze system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before I tell you how to fix it, please know that you should NOT mix different colours of anti-freeze. They may react and form a thick sludge that can block the system. And that gets difficult or expensive to take care of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to get rid of the trapped air, all you need to do is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the cap on the coolant/antifreeze reservoir and start your car. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let it run until the fan comes on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn your aircon up as hot as it can go. (it's quicker to wait for the car to warm up first, otherwise the aircon being on hot will cause the engine to heat up at a slower rate.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn your aircon's fan up to full blast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;watch the coolant reservoir. You'll see bubbles and foam coming into it. wait until the antifreeze comes in at a smooth rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the anti-freeze level may go down as it replaces the trapped air that escaped. This is normal. Just pour some more in. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to pour some water in too. Water is what helps to cool down your car. Antifreeze only guards against freezing and rust. The bottle will tell you how many parts water to antifreeze you should mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun fact: this is called &quot;burping&quot; your car ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: as per Mac's comment, a likely cause of the problem you had 5 miles after adding coolant was that the overflow tank cap was not tightened down properly. Be sure to check that twice next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T15:33:25.470" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T15:33:25.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-17T13:56:33.807" Score="0" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;my indica vista car engine is getting over heated. Is this because of not mixing water and usind only coolant oil, if so what should i doo now can i mix water now in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3980" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T16:27:38.297" Title="Radiator is getting more heated" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-17T14:46:10.727" Score="7" ViewCount="74300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Accord. It is foaming orange stuff. The fluid should be clear?? Took it to a shop, they flushed the system, said they had to do it 3 times, said there were no leaks in the lines and the pump was working fine. Said they got most of the orange stuff out, but theres still a tinge of it, but its mostly clear again. Felt better driving it after the flush. Started it up this morning, made the same whining noise as before, worse when you move wheel back and forth. Looked in the reservior, orange and foaming again. Sigh. Any ideas??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3981" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T20:14:20.360" Title="Power steering pump is whining and has foamy orange stuff" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7649" CreationDate="2013-11-17T15:42:12.220" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'foaming' you describe is almost certainly air getting into the system. The power steering pump will cause a suction effect in the pump and then pressurise the system. Look for loose hose clips, damaged piping, and leaking seals on the pump body between the pump and its fluid reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T15:42:12.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-17T15:52:03.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first when I tried to start it the lights came on and the check engine light came on but no start. Now I get no reaction at all. Need help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3982" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T01:03:07.663" Title="My 2000 Chevy impala won't start" Tags="|battery|troubleshooting|starter|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7645" CreationDate="2013-11-17T15:55:54.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a typical starter failure. With a voltmeter check the battery voltage(12.4-12.6 for a charged battery), check the power and earth cables to the motor. Check tightness and cleanliness of all connections. An Old Hands quick and dirty check is to have an assistant hold the key over in the crank position-(handbrake on and out of gear, staying away from all rotating parts)- and give the starter motor a couple of good clouts with your tool box hammer. If it now cranks it shows the starter is due replacement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T15:55:54.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7644" CreationDate="2013-11-17T16:15:55.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had overheating problems before adding the antifreeze/topping up the coolant, then you could be looking at a thermostat problem. Check also for any damage to hoses, radiator and the expansion tank cap. &#xA;In passing, water boils at 100C/212F. A motor vehicle cooling system is maintained by the system at pressure, the pressure prevents the coolant from boiling. If you were to undo any part of the system whilst it's hot, then the release of pressure will enable the water to boil instantly and this will spray boiling water and steam at great force out of the system. Your system cap should carry a warning 'Do not undo when hot'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T16:15:55.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2013-11-17T16:54:00.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your air conditioning system has a valve that operates when you turn the AirCon on. The valve blocks hot coolant going through the cars interior heating system making the AirCon evaporators work(cooling) unaffected by the interior heating(heat). The fault will be amongst: AC switch not feeding the valve, wiring damaged or disconnected, valve failure closing off heater permanantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T16:54:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6365" CreationDate="2013-11-17T17:28:42.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise on your vehicle is the engine 'pinking'. You are overloading the engine when you produce the noise when stationary like in the clip. But, if you also have this noise when driving then the areas you need to check are: Engine Knock Sensor failure, engine coolant level/overheating. A system scan would show up any other possibilities such as an oxygen sensor or vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T17:28:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6967" CreationDate="2013-11-17T18:09:36.637" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for connecting the earth lead to earth on the engine or the chassis and not the battery is for protection of the electronic equipment of the vehicle. With the battery connected it will act as the necessary resistance to prevent any voltage surge. A flat battery will not give off hydrogen gas. A hot/just charged battery will give off the gas which has a distinctive acrid smell which a spark can ignite. Your car has a diagnostic plug. If you look at a scanner plug that plugs into it, you will see that two of the central pins are longer than the others. Prevents a surge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T18:09:36.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7651" CreationDate="2013-11-18T01:03:07.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No start is classified into two categories, cranking and non cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranking is when you hear the engine turning over but not starting. Where the fault would be in your ignition system. If this is the case check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- spark plugs&#xA;- wires&#xA;- distributor (if applicable)&#xA;- Ignition coil&#xA;- Starter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a no cranking, that means there is a fault in the charging system check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  - Battery &#xA;  - Battery Terminals + Wires &#xA;  - Starter &#xA;  - Alternator&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T01:03:07.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2013-11-18T01:08:49.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant Level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat stuck open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater Control Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature blend door&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged heater core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Coolant Level&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant level that's even a little low can affect heater performance. It's near the top of the system so there could be enough coolant to prevent the engine from overheating but not enough to make it through the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thermostat stuck open&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine isn't reaching operating temperature then suspect a stuck open thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heater Control Valve&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater control valve is inline with the inlet heater hoses running to the heater core. Look for 5/8 inch to 3/4 inch inside diameter hoses that pass though the firewall on the passenger side. Feel the one closest to the driver side at the firewall, this is the inlet hose. If this hose is not hot check the heater control valve. Follow that hose back until you find a valve that has a vacuum line attached to it. Make sure the line going into the valve is hot, if so then pull the vacuum line off the valve. There should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be vacuum present on the hose with the function knob in the floor position. If there is no vacuum on the valve, and the hose between the engine and the valve is hot at the hose between the valve and the firewall is not then you have a bad valve. If there is vacuum on the line then you likely have a bad function switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Temperature blend door&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that switch looks mechanical it's actually a potentiometer that controls the temperature blend door actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will require further testing, with a DVOM. Leave me a comment if everything else checks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plugged heater core&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the inlet hose (closest to drivers side) is hot at the firewall and the outlet hose is only warm or cool you have a plugged heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T01:08:49.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2013-11-18T03:10:06.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can't just use pure coolant in a radiator.   The coolant raises the boiling point of water, but without water it will not work well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the coolant in your system with the correct mixture of water and coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T14:46:41.760" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T14:46:41.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7664" CreationDate="2013-11-18T12:14:38.920" Score="6" ViewCount="4934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW E90 2007 with a M47TU2 engine, Can anyone tell me where the EGR valve is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to get it off, howto clean it and what cleaning materials are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T23:16:27.307" LastActivityDate="2020-10-24T09:11:49.550" Title="BMW E90 M47TU2 EGR clean" Tags="|bmw|egr|e90|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2013-11-18T16:27:38.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water has a boiling point of 100c/212f at sea level. A soloution of 67% antifreeze to 33% water raises the boiling point of the mixture to 113C/235F. A mixture of 50/50 will cover most vehicles except for really cold climatic areas of the world. Anything less than around 40% antifreeze solution will allow cavitation of the water and corrosion of most of the metals inside the engine. Most commercially supplied 'coolant' is antifreeze with distilled water, and is not some magic fluid. There are five main antifreezes: &lt;strong&gt;Ethylene glycol&lt;/strong&gt;- Most used by most car manufacturers POISONOUS, &lt;strong&gt;Propylene glycol&lt;/strong&gt; - Considered to be less harmful as it is non poisonous. Found in windsceen washes, &lt;strong&gt;Phosphate free&lt;/strong&gt;, recommended by some car manufacturers as being phosphate free makes it more eco friendly, &lt;strong&gt;Organic Acid Technology(OAT)&lt;/strong&gt; - no phosphates no silicons and used in all late model GM vehicles, &lt;strong&gt;Hybrid OAT&lt;/strong&gt; has an additive to be less abrasive to water pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T16:27:38.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2013-11-18T16:43:52.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW use valve overlap to serve EGR. Most if not all of BMW engines DO NOT have an EGR valve. They use a system on the engine that they have named VANOS. This system changes the cam shaft timing so that it allows exhaust gas to remain in the cylinder during the inlet stroke. This has the same effect as an EGR system. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.bimmerforums.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; has a very good and detailed explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T18:26:41.970" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T18:26:41.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7666" CreationDate="2013-11-18T17:12:33.440" Score="5" ViewCount="14806" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Toyota Sienna van has much more dust and black soot on front hubcaps than on rear hubcaps. I'd think that all four hubcap would get equally dirty given same driving conditions, yet within the past 6 months, the front ones are becoming much dirtier than the rear ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some probable explanations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T18:23:41.827" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T18:23:41.827" Title="What do relatively dirtier front hubcaps indicate?" Tags="|troubleshooting|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7665" CreationDate="2013-11-18T17:33:33.750" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of what makes wheels appear dirty is brake dust. Brake dust is wear particles from the brake pads and rotors (or from linings and drums, in the case of drum brakes). The braking effort in most vehicles is not equally distributed between front and rear wheels--this is by design. Generally the front wheels do most of the braking work, since weight naturally transfers to the front tires during braking, giving them better grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of your braking is taking place at the front wheels, so more brake dust is being generated on the front wheels. This is generally not a cause for concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if one wheel is suddenly far dirtier than all other wheels, it could indicate a stuck brake caliper causing the brakes to drag. I don't suspect this in the case you described, where both fronts are dirtier than both rears. I think if you look closely at most cars on the road you will find that it is normal for front wheels to be dirtier than rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:33:33.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7215" CreationDate="2013-11-18T17:37:32.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manual reset of service light, button A is between the fuel gauge and the 150 MPH marking on the speedo. Information is displayed on the speedo. Ignition off, press and hold button A, turn the ignition key to position 1, after 5 or so seconds the message OIL SERVICE or INSPECTION and &quot;reset&quot; or &quot;re&quot; is displayed, release button and then press and hold button A, after 5 seconds or so &quot;reset&quot; will start to flash, release button A, press and release button A again, new service interval is now displayed, press and release button A and the message &quot;END SIA&quot; is displayed, switch off ignition. This reset applies when the vehicles are due servicing. If the vehicle is not due servicing it will not reset. Tyre pressures for the RunFlat tyres on the Mini Cooper are 30psi. To reset: With all tyres inflated to 30psi, Start the engine, press the tyre reset button next to the handbrake lever until the TPMS lamp on the dash lights up. Drive the vehicle faster then 15mph and the system will reset. The ELM327 when set to read OBD2 will only have software to request OBD2 codes from the engine ECU. If you want to read anything else you will need a scanner that will instruct the ELM327 to request and read and display the system you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:37:32.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7539" CreationDate="2013-11-18T18:10:53.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a lot of things, not your alternator, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I would check Engine Oil Level. Could be some lifter noise going on in that video.&#xA;If your Oil looks good, move onto check for vacuum leaks. Listen for any high pitched whistling under the hood, or spray all the lines down with CARB or MAF cleaner. That will let you know if you have a crack, the cars idle will become unstable.&#xA;Third, check the octane rating. Your car may need higher octane or the last fillup, the station had poor quality fuel. That will be your next cheapest option. Last, check all exhaust lines. If there are crack it will be uneven and sound awful with some rattling. Check the manifold as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, add some Oil Stabilizer to the engine oil next oil change and if the sounds persist, take it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T18:10:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7673" CreationDate="2013-11-18T23:46:05.300" Score="1" ViewCount="3169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw someone driving my car today (at the car wash) and I noticed after backing up, upon turning left some and moving forward, the front wheel lagged about 4&quot;!!! It looked like it was going to hit the wheel well! O.O I was alarmed and I figured I need to fix it right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm rather sure it's the control arms, but before I spend all the money on them, I'd like to be sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would changing the front upper and lower control arms (and bushings) solve a wheel that is not very sturdy in place? And is there anything else I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3987" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T00:34:01.187" Title="1999 Camaro's front wheels move forward and backward significantly, is it the control arms?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7679" CreationDate="2013-11-19T00:05:44.103" Score="4" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite irritated as to my car's sound insulation, it's a 95 corolla and I want to remove some of the outside noise when I'm driving, Are there ways I could use so as to lessen the external noise(engine noise,other vehicle's noise) from the cabin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T20:20:09.277" Title="How to increase sound insulation of a car" Tags="|toyota|noise|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7675" CreationDate="2013-11-19T00:13:06.713" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's brake seems to having some problems. Before Whenever I brake, I only use around 20 - 40% of the brakes(I kinda half step through the brake pedal) and the brakes seem to work instantaneously. But ever since I drove the car through a flood(the water was just around a centimeter below the car's ground clearance), My car does not respond that well when I brake lightly, instead I have to brake at around 70 - 90%  just so the car would brake immediately. I have tried cleaning the rear brakes(drum brakes), but I am still experiencing a lot of brake fade. Is there a way I could adjust the brake response? Or do I also have to check my front brakes? I had just replaced my rear brake pads around 3-4 months ago, and I've just done around 1.5k ever since the replacement. Are tires also a factor as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T01:07:06.833" Title="changing brake response" Tags="|maintenance|toyota|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7670" CreationDate="2013-11-19T00:34:01.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really bad control arm bushings could cause your symptoms. They would have to be really bad to get 4 inches of movement. If you are seeing that much movement my guess is that more than one component is involved. I would not drive it unless absolutely needed. If you can safely jack up and support the front of the car you should be able to inspect the control arm bushings along with the tierods, balljoints, wheelbearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T00:34:01.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7677" CreationDate="2013-11-19T00:41:21.317" Score="3" ViewCount="14600" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's what my dipstick looks like. Note that it's dry on the picture, there's no oil on it. It has that brownish area which I can't scrape off.&#xA;I have had the car for a short time and was changing the oil for the first time. As far as I know it's been taken care of properly (have records), and a competent mechanic looked at it before I bought it. I don't remember seeing this stain, unless the mechanic brushed it off as not a big deal and I don't remember it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a sign of something bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HyJK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3354" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T17:53:13.340" Title="Oil dipstick with burnt oil on it" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7672" CreationDate="2013-11-19T00:45:28.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the rear shoes adjusted will help with the pedal travel issue. Another possibility is that the brakes, both front and rear were contaminated by something in the water. It could have been oil, silt, mud etc. This may have glazed the brake material leaving a hard smooth surface that doesn't generate a lot of braking friction. You can try to remove the rear drums and spray the shoes and interior of the drums with quality brake specific cleaner. It wouldn't hurt to rough the shoes up with some sandpaper to breakup any glazing that may have occurred. I would do the same with the front pads and rotors as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T01:07:06.833" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T01:07:06.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7678" CreationDate="2013-11-19T02:07:21.423" Score="5" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Mazda3 s (manual transmission, base engine) to which I'd like to begin adding more performance-oriented parts once the OEM parts begin to degrade. However, I am not the kind of person who would like to do everything at once. However, I also don't want to do something in the incorrect order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like is tight handling for mountain driving, as well as more responsive acceleration when I'm already over 50-ish mph. Where should I begin to look for opportunities for improvement in these areas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3989" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:23:12.737" Title="What is a good strategy for adding performance upgrades in phases to a 2013 Mazda 3?" Tags="|mazda|performance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7674" CreationDate="2013-11-19T09:57:18.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your picture shows the normal staining and discolourment of the dipstick during normal operation. The staining is caused by the crankcase fumes and gases present in all vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T09:57:18.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2013-11-19T11:10:46.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing incremental upgrades is a very wise move - not only does it spread the costs, but it also gives you a much better idea of the effect of each change you make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain driving (and, in fact, for any situation), the first things I would look at are the brakes and tyres. The tyres are vital, as they're the only things keeping you on the road! The particular choice will depend on your location, the size of tyre you're using, and the weather you're expecting to drive in, but whatever you choose, make sure it's a good brand. Don't go for low-profile tyres - they might be good for smooth highways, but they'll give you an awful ride on potholed mountain roads...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first upgrade with the brakes will be the pads. Uprated performance pads are usually not much more than standard - but buy 'fast road' pads, not 'race' ones - the latter will be designed to work very well when hot, but can be poor when cold. Vented or drilled/grooved discs (rotors) can then follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to suspension, on an older car I'd always suggest poly bushes, but on a nearly-new car they won't need replacing for years. Stiffer shock absorbers will tighten up the handling, but again the OEM ones ought ot be good for a few years yet! Many aftermarket shocks are adjustable, so you can tweak them to suit your driving style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is always the last thing to look at - and on many modern engines a chip or remap is the only feasible upgrade without major work. regular maintenance to keep it in tip-top condition, and high quality parts (e.g. spark plugs) are of course vital. If you're doing a lot of high-altitude driving then a more free-flowing air filter might make a little difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T11:10:46.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7671" CreationDate="2013-11-19T12:12:34.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the normal route is to add sound deadening material inside the doors and/or on the floor of the car.  A corolla won't have much stock insulation so you should be able to make some good progress in reducing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common project for people who are installing nice audio systems, so you should be able to find some nice walk-throughs on audio sites.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T12:12:34.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2013-11-19T13:48:25.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you go fast, you need to be able to slow down. That means better brakes and tires and possibly uprated suspension components (springs and shocks). And strut braces if you don't mind shortening the life of your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that out of the way, as far as making the car go faster, I always work from back to front, meaning I make sure that the things downstream can handle any power increases upstream. I assume you're not going to put a turbo on your Mazda. If you are, please tell me because not all of the following would apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit a larger performance exhaust. Not too large, or you'll actually lose power. Basically because the exhaust gases won't flow at a fast enough rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit a performance manifold. There's no use having a larger exhaust if the manifold is still old hat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install larger intake and exhaust valves, or have the current ones &quot;ground&quot;. This allows for more air to be pushed into and out of each cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the engine's top gasflowed. I think this is also called &quot;porting and polishing&quot;. This allows air to enter and exit the engine more efficiently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a more aggressive camshaft with higher lift and duration. A more aggressive camshaft will push your peak power further up the rev range, so keep in mind that the car will feel slightly less alive at slow RPM. Note I said &quot;slightly&quot;. It's not noticeable most of the time. This &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; also require the installation of a vernier pulley, but the cost isn't that much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an ECU remap, or if you don't have a Flashable ECU, get a piggyback system or custom ECU installed and programmed with a performance map.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're still in the mood to spend money, increase the engine capacity by having the cylinders bored out. This will require you to install new, larger pistons and may also require you to pay for some of the other things again. Get a few quotes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for mountain driving, nothing beats a nice supercharger. You can find one that was fitted to a Mini Cooper S relatively cheaply on Ebay. You'll have to get a custom ECU, exhaust, intake manifold and intercooler too, so it won't be cheap and doesn't really speak to your question, but it's worth mentioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T13:48:25.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T18:29:50.320" Score="21" ViewCount="100856" Body="&lt;p&gt;The leather on the side of the driver's seat has some minor cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using conditioner to help prevent this in the other seats but these cracks already exist. Is there a product or patch of some kind I should use to repair these and keep them from getting worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f6P8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracks in driver seat sidewall&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastEditorUserId="3992" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T23:44:36.580" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T08:38:18.130" Title="How can I repair cracks in leather seat?" Tags="|maintenance|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7674" CreationDate="2013-11-19T18:32:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel changes colors from silver to gold to purple as it is exposed to heat.  The picture isn't clear enough for me to confirm that is what has happened here, but it would explain the uneven coloring pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not change the performance of the dipstick or your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I see that the above answer was accepted, so I thought I'd add a reference.  I'd like to see a reference for the above answer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=140&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=140&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastEditorUserId="3993" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T17:53:13.340" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T17:53:13.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T22:46:15.233" Score="2" ViewCount="5832" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got my first vtec honda and vtec isn't kicking In and before I take it to my mechanic to see what it is I'm curious to know how low the oil has to be to effect the vtec. My oil level is just in the optimum range but I read that high revs starve your engine of oil so I was wondering if just that tiny amount of lower oil level may be causing my vtec to not work? I know I can just go get some oil to see if it fixes it but I'd like to know for future references just how low the oil has to get to effect vtec&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3994" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2013-11-24T06:56:47.573" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T08:52:15.027" Title="At what level does low oil prevent vtec from working?" Tags="|honda|oil|vtec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7685" CreationDate="2013-11-20T01:00:22.923" Score="3" ViewCount="16948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2007 Camry.  Bought it brand new from the dealer, have only ever had it (regularly) serviced at the dealer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on my way home from a meeting today, and I was driving down a road.  The radio went off, and all of the sudden, all of the lights on the dash lit up: check engine, parking break, etc.  I didn't have any turn signals, the power windows/locks didn't work, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I already had the vehicle on, I drove it right to the the dealer, who got it right in.  Once I turned the engine off at the dealer, the car wouldn't start, and everything was dead in the water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First they checked the battery, which was fine (I had it replaced in January...by the dealer!).  Then they thought the issue could be the starter or possibly how the after market remote starter (which was installed by the dealer) was interacting with the starter.  That wasn't the problem.  So this afternoon, they said that they ran every diagnostic possible on it, and they &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that the problem is the engine harness.  They said that the entire engine harness had to go, and that there probably is a sensor involved here as well.  The total price of the estimated fix is $2800, which is a pretty large amount to risk, especially given that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got no guarantee that replacing the engine harness would do the job, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've lost my faith in the dealer's competence.  We're talking about 4 different dealers in 4 major U.S. cities that I've worked with for maintenance, so I don't think that going to a different one would solve the problem.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: What are some possible reasons that my car would have suddenly just died it did? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3995" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T05:17:55.973" Title="2007 Camry went dead while driving. What are some reasons that could cause this?" Tags="|engine|electrical|camry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7684" CreationDate="2013-11-20T10:23:23.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the harness is damaged, the problem is most likely to be amongst the engine ECU, immobiliser transponder, or instrument panel control module. Prelimanary checks should be fuses, relays, and connecting plugs correctly fitted. Don't be too hard on the techs involved as a fault of this type can be a long and drawn out affair, but could be simply a fuse or relay replacement. The engine ECU powers the actuators on the vehicle, so you need to check things like: fuel pump runs when ignition key is turned to the run position, power to injectors, power to ignition coils, brake lights working. These checks will show that the ECU is or is'nt working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T10:23:23.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2013-11-20T10:48:05.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at your engines dip stick you will see minimum and maximum marks on it. The engine oil level must be maintained between these marks, any cause that means that this is not the case must be rectified. Carry a can of oil in the boot/trunk for topping up. The engine oil lubricates the moving parts, cools internal parts of the engine, and operates actuators on the engine such as Vtec valve. If the Vtec is not working, checking it must include an electrical check of  the solonoid valve and it's operation, and the working parts of Vtec mechanism. This usually means a visit to the repair shop. High revs on their own will not starve the engine of oil, but an extremely low oil level, or a fault with the oil pump, or oil lubrication system will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T10:48:05.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-20T11:35:46.120" Score="5" ViewCount="28156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently designing a part that should always be on when the key is turned to On/Acc, and only sometimes on when the key is set to Off, or removed. My car is a 99 Camry, but I have a good understanding that this should be the same in any car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have, is the only difference between a car 12v always on circuit, and a switched 12v circuit, a physical switch (the key)? If I place a jump/short between a 12v always on wire and a 12v switched wire, is there any real difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring Diagram makes the key switch look like a simple physical switch, while the 12v lines, both Always On, and Switched, look like they are electronically the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8hxA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: This is the general idea I am working with. The Relay will self latch when SW1 is press, or when the car is on ON/ACC. When the relay latches from the 12v On\ACC, the diode should go into reverse bias so the circuit would then be powered from my fused Always On circuit, not the On\ACC circuit, while preventing backfeeding from Always On to the Switched circuit.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;I know a second relay would make things easier, but part count is important.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KbF02.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, I guess the real question at this point is simply, not counting the fuses (just for theory), the Switched 12v and Always On 12v are the same exact lines, but the switched 12v has a physical key switch in the say, right? Shorting the two is bad practice, but nothing that will have major problems right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastEditorUserId="3997" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T21:21:15.013" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:21:15.013" Title="12v Acc/Switched vs 12v Always On" Tags="|electrical|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2013-11-20T16:24:25.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with a short if I understand what you mean by that term is that anything else on the circuit that is being shorted now goes on when your secondary switch is turned on.  Only you know if that actually IS a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is whether this switched circuit is fused at the same current rating as the 12 accessory circuit.  If you when the switch is on the acc will be able to pull  current through both the switched circuit and the acc circuit potentially allowing much more current through unless you wire them into the same fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T16:24:25.993" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2013-11-20T16:26:15.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you place a jumper wire between a always-on 12V source and a switched 12V source, you've now turned your switched wire into an always-on wire (with power supplied from your original always-on source). This is not advisable, and is almost certainly not what you want. It could also create a risk of fire if the fuse for your unswitched source is too large for the wiring of your switched source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternate approach, consider an aftermarket GPS with a power cord connected to a switched source. The GPS turns on when you switch the power source on, and when you switch the power source off, the GPS begins running off its own internal battery, and displays a prompt saying it will shut down in 30 seconds unless you press &quot;stay on.&quot; Perhaps this is the behavior you're looking for. If so, you'd need an internal battery in your device, and you would only connect to a switched source on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T16:26:15.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2013-11-20T16:49:06.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the BMW 528i power assisted steering BMW specify &lt;em&gt;Dexron II/CHF 7.1/11S&lt;/em&gt;. This particular oil will not deteriorate rubber seals in the system, nor re-act with metals in the system, it's useful life and performance are assured. Once upon a time automatic transmission fluid was just automatic transmission fluid, its not now. Stay safe, use the correct spec, a litre of Dexron will always be cheaper than a new rack or pump or an accident. If the system is leaking then it needs to be repaired. Leave the repair and you can bet your last dollar it is going to let you down at the worst possible time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T16:49:06.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7559" CreationDate="2013-11-20T18:13:13.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest I've seen to problems with the tensioner assembly is oil leaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Corolla-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Oil-Leak-Repair-Guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Corolla-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Oil-Leak-Repair-Guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Toyota service shop already repaired it, I would have a conversation with the manager about what he/she thinks they might have done wrong during the first repair to make the second repair necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T18:13:13.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7696" CreationDate="2013-11-20T19:28:09.330" Score="8" ViewCount="66525" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those myths that doesn't go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles can accept larger oil filters, which provides more filtration media and higher oil capacities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are their any tangible performance benefits to doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an oversized filter in my old Jeep LJ for one reason only: it accepts slightly less than 6 quarts of oil. With the larger filter I could safely put in exactly 6 quarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T01:22:22.817" Title="Are there benefits to using an oversized oil filter?" Tags="|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7699" CreationDate="2013-11-20T19:59:48.697" Score="6" ViewCount="13905" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '08 Ford Fusion's check engine light went on about a month ago. It was a P0455 code &quot;Evaporative emission control system leak detected - large leak&quot;. I was going to fix it myself, but never got around to ordering the part. Anyway, the light had gone off last week and now I'm wondering if it is even an issue any more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4000" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T17:31:49.447" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T17:31:49.447" Title="If the check engine light goes off after some time later, has the issue been resolved?" Tags="|ford|cel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2013-11-20T20:18:00.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How the computer works on most modern cars is like this:&#xA;It monitors all the sensors in the automobile in near real time. When a fault is detected more than a set criteria per trip, the computer sets of a MIL. So it is possible the computer has not detected that fault in some time (causing the computer to assume systems are normal). So it is very possible the light will come back on if the part is not fixed. It could also have just been a system fault as well. Computers make mistakes too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, it can come on again if there is an actual issue, or it may not. Eitherway I'd still check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:18:00.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2013-11-20T20:23:38.267" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are not benefits either way really. I personally prefer OE type, however you shouldn't encounter any issues!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:23:38.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2013-11-20T20:53:24.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had to use slightly smaller oil filter in order to accommodate a larger downpipe on my car.  Nothing bad (that can be traced back to that change) has happened as a result since the change (probably 15 years ago now).  Oil pressure and volume are still right where they should be, but in theory the change could impact that.  You need the appropriate pressure and volume for your engine.  Volume needs to be sufficient, pressure should fall between a min/max range (too much can be as bad as too little).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:53:24.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2013-11-20T21:10:24.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you filled up with gas again since then?  This code will clear itself if the problem was a loose gas cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:10:24.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7737" CreationDate="2013-11-20T21:46:43.927" Score="4" ViewCount="1434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of replacing the radio in my '96 Sidekick 1.8L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ground wire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPtSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ground Wire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;was attached to the aftermarket radio that I removed (I think it was aftermarket). The ring was connected to a screw on the metal collar around the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the original radio, I pulled on the ground wire to get more slack to work with, and it popped out of whatever it was connected to on the other end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes. It looks like there should be something to plug the plastic connector into, but I can't find anything. Could someone point out the general location on the image below? If I even knew what quadrant it was supposed to be in it would help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTVuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Radio Area&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I can't find the original connector, would it be safe to just solder the ground on the radio to some metal bit in there? If so, please indicate where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastEditorUserId="4002" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T17:00:17.260" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T10:07:27.567" Title="Suzuki Sidekick Radio Ground Wire Location" Tags="|wiring|suzuki|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2013-11-20T22:02:52.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some variation based on model year and country of use most faults will latch and self clear. By latching the fault, it is stored and in some cases the &quot;check engine light&quot; also referred to as the MIL (malfunction indicator light)  will remain lit after repair until certain conditions are met. The conditions for the fault to clear may involve a certain number of miles driven, cold start cycles completed or passed self tests. As @ Nathan Liddle has stated your fault points to the gas cap as the most likely culprit. If you repaired the fault the MIL may stay lit until the fault self clears. Even after the fault clears it will remain stored for a certain amount of time which also varies with model year,etc. This is useful for diagnosing MIL issues that can come and go like vacuum leaks, bad connections and misfires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T22:02:52.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4705" CreationDate="2013-11-20T23:53:18.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the actual question of &quot;how to remove these fastener/screw things&quot;:  Use a flat head screwdriver to pop out the inner, smaller circle thing.  Once that is done, you can use your fingers to pick up the outer circle thing.  Then grab hold of the entire air intake box and wiggle it free of the rubber sleeve/seal and the entire thing will come of cleanly and give a lot of room to get at the battery.  Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4003" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T23:53:18.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T02:16:22.797" Score="3" ViewCount="5839" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Monte Carlo ss with a 3.8 liter motor in great condition.&#xA;The problem is...  check engine light on, Temperature gauge not working and cooling fans stay on for 5 minutes after turning car off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took it to autozone..  p0118... ETC (engine temp control ) There are 2.. I changed them both and changed Thermostat..&#xA;I disconnected battery to clear code.. cleared...no CEL while driving..  Then turn car off... upon restart CEL comes on and fans continue to run for 5 minutes extra again after I turn off car...  SUMMARY... CEL, Fans running unnecessarily, Temp gauge not working............Solution Relay maybe????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, thank you for your help. Still not resolved unfortunately. As I said, I replaced the ETC and the engine coolant level sensor on radiator just below cap and the thermostat also with no success. New information is the following... when I start the car I sometimes get a loud whining (like pressure equalizing ) I shut it off and it whines down just like pressure releasing. The car runs great, I cannot detect anything in its operation just no temperature gauge, CEL and cooling fans run.   I am stuck as to what the issue may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4004" LastEditorUserId="4004" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T00:48:02.147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T16:29:59.117" Title="2001 Monte Carlo ss. 3.8 liter cooling fans" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|fan|relay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T05:30:28.797" Score="6" ViewCount="119862" Body="&lt;p&gt;This started about a week ago. I put the heat on and about after driving a couple of miles with the heat on it would randomly blow out cold air. Sometimes if I turned the heat off or switched it from cold back to hot it would work again. How would I go about fixing this or even knowing what the cause of the problem is? Also, this is the first time this has ever happened to me and I have owned the car for a little over 4 years now. 2001 Nissan Altima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T22:24:22.420" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T09:44:57.250" Title="Why does my car sometimes blow cold air while the heater is on?" Tags="|cooling-system|heater|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2013-11-21T08:45:11.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First check would be that the engine has sufficient coolant. (&lt;strong&gt;NB Do not remove the radiator cap when hot&lt;/strong&gt;). Second check is that the engine is reaching operating temperature - does the temp gauage rise and show hot?. If these items pass inspection, then the very probable fault is with the AirCon module. When you turn the AirCon on, the module shuts off the flow of water to the heater. When you turn the AirCon off, the module opens the flow of water to the heater. A mis-behaving module would give you the heater performance you are experiencing. A system scan of the AirCon should highlight the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T08:45:11.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7701" CreationDate="2013-11-21T11:51:47.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ECU can measure 3 primary sensors in the cooling system. Engine thermostat for the engine temperature, the engine coolant temperature tracks this. You can also have a temperature sensor for water temperature into the radiator and a temperature sensor for water temperature out of the radiator. The radiator sensors decide the plausibility of the radiator cooling the cooling system. If the plausibility check of radiator is out of spec the cooling fans are commanded to run, to avoid the sysytem overheating. P0118 indicates a high voltage in the ECT circuit, usually means resistance in the circuit, a disconnection, a thermostat staying open causing an over-cool coolant system, or a failed ECT sensor. P0117 indicates a low voltage in the circuit, usually works out as short in the system, or a failed ECT sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T11:51:47.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2013-11-21T12:07:57.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your picture of the cable it certainly looks like an earth lead. The bare metal end, eyelet, would normally be bolted to the vehicle chassis, so it begs the question why has it become free with just a tug on the lead. If you are certain that the white plastic end of the lead plugs into the radio, (shaped plug hole - same colour) then it could very well be to earth an accessory you dont have fitted and would attached to it. The scenic route to find out where it earths is too turn on everything one at a time to see what does'nt work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T12:07:57.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2013-11-21T12:20:40.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the specific part is applicated to your vehicle then it is fine.  As Brian, mentioned there is a lot more to oil filters than diameter and height.  The wrong filter (even if it is the same size) can starve an engine of oil or switch the filter over to bypass mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not worth the risk to get a possible marginal better oil life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T12:20:40.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2013-11-21T12:26:33.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0455 indicates a large leak as you say. A large leak can indeed be a loose gas cap. The criteria for the code depends on how it is detected. A MAP sensor mis-behaving while driving sets this code on a lot of systems, the rate of pressure over time measured by a pressure sensor is another way to turn the light on. Both the EVAP vent valve and the EVAP purge valve both need to be working correctly. If you get the light/code again you will need a system check of the EVAP, preferable with a bi-directional scanner to test its operation fully. The code must always be regarded as the conclusion the ECU programming, not always a pin point indication of the fault. This means associated systems must be checked as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T12:26:33.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2013-11-21T12:43:47.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When motor manufacturers put together a new model of vehicle, or introduce a new engine they are extensively tested under all conditions. When you look at your oil filter you can sleep easy that it has been tested over thousands of cars and thousands of miles and has come out of it smelling of roses. A larger, smaller, or otherwise differant oil filter will offer no real benefits or gains. It will not prolong oil changes, it will not make the car go faster or use less fuel. But it will open the prospect of a failure into your cars lubrication system, how ever unlikely. Use the manufacturers oil filter, or an OEM match, and change the oil and filter according to its maintenance schedule using the recommended oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T12:43:47.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T19:55:17.057" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this truck basically blind, not knowing anything but the mileage (over 200k) &amp;amp; that it wasn't locked up. The truck has been parked for over a year, it is getting plenty of spark but no gas, I checked the timing, putting it on TDC, timing ok, even tried spraying a little ether while turning it over, not even a cough, I figured at least a back fire. Can anybody help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4009" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T11:54:49.683" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:33:46.547" Title="1992 Toyota pu 4cyl 4wd won't start" Tags="|toyota|starting|fuel-system|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T20:06:51.070" Score="2" ViewCount="2264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 F150 with a 5.4 engine. It started running rough and I noticed oil in my coolant. I checked the dipstick and it is clean. I was just a little low so I added oil. When I removed the oil filler cap on the valve cover it was like a milk shack, but nothing in the oil pan itself. I am a loss I have had blown head gaskets before on other vehicles but nothing like this. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4010" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T11:52:48.507" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:56:13.970" Title="Oil in coolant none in oil" Tags="|engine|ford|coolant|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2013-11-22T03:58:00.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally managed to solve this problem. There were two, &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; 4-digit codes: one on the back of the manual, and another on a separate card. The 4-digit code on the card was the correct one for the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3815" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T03:58:00.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7717" CreationDate="2013-11-22T07:38:07.893" Score="3" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I had to drive a lot and after 100 miles I noticed that the idle won't go below 1500 rpm (should be 600) on my 1993 BMW 525i (euro model), except when I drove slowly in a high gear. &#xA;This morning all seemed to be OK (only did a 5 miles trip though), maybe the rpm fallback was a bit slower than usually when releasing the accelerator.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, earlier before I had to put some extra pressure on the accelerator to set it off from the top, unpressed position. Now it moves smoothly even from the top position. &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Could this be just because the throttle adjustment screw is out of alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3379" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T21:45:27.820" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:45:27.820" Title="Idle sometimes too high (BMWM50B25TU)" Tags="|engine|idle|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2013-11-22T09:23:59.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connect the ground terminal (the ring) to the radio that you will be putting into the vehicle. This will act as an extra ground for the radio itself. This will also reduce any other interferance from other electrical circuits throughout the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T09:23:59.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7711" CreationDate="2013-11-22T10:43:25.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white emulsion on the inside of the oil filler cap is caused by 'under bonnet thermals'. If the PCV is under performing then the fumes and humidity from the engine crank case are cooled and solidified by cold air entering the engine compartment. The cold air cools the cam cover/rocker cover and causes the emulsion on its inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Significant&lt;/strong&gt; amounts of oil in the cooling system is symptomatic of a leak between the oil galleries and the cooling system galleries. The head gasket is one of the usual suspects but the list extends to the oil cooler, engine block cracks, head assembly cracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel up to it drain the engine sump of oil into a suitable container and check the oil for water contamination. If there is no contamination you can always put the OK oil back into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T21:56:13.970" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:56:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7710" CreationDate="2013-11-22T11:02:57.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you able to ask the previous owner for any history that could point you in the direction of the fault? This needs going back to basics. Check that you actually have petrol in the tank, could be anything in there, check for water or diesel or any other contamination. Don't go by the fuel gauge for tank level, it might be mis-reading. Take out the plugs, any compression? Cam belt or chain turning the cam? Disconnect the fuel pipe at the engine and feed it into a container, pumping &lt;strong&gt;fuel&lt;/strong&gt;? Do you have anything blocking the air inlet, a birds nest or dead squirrel? Cover the basics first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T11:02:57.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2013-11-22T14:43:54.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The throttle body at this age of vehicle has a real possibility of being 'dirty'. Take off the large hose connecting the throttle body to the air cleaner at the throttle body. If the visible throttle body parts are heavily coated with cruud, then clean the throttle plate and throttle body with a tooth brush and throttle body cleaner fluid. Operate the throttle plate to allow cleaning of both of its sides and edges. Why? As the engine warms up it causes the throttle body and throttle plate to expand slightly. The cruud(deposits) on the plate and body cause it to remain open instead of fully closing. This will cause a higher erratic idle speed and slow return to idle. The symptoms you have described when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T14:43:54.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-22T16:54:16.160" Score="2" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a manual 96 Toytota T100, and recently the engine started making a high pitched, almost inaudible whine. Some things I've loosely figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It always stops when the brakes are applied, but doesn't stop for the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems independent of speed or revs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds cyclical with a slight random component, and fades in and out as I'm driving or stopped, but will usually go for 30 seconds at a time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems independent of the heat/ac fan speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems temperature independent (both outdoors, and how long the truck has been running)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where to start looking for the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4012" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T20:56:04.567" Title="High pitched noise from engine unless brakes engaged" Tags="|engine|toyota|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2013-11-22T18:14:19.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From reading the question, you seem to understand that you're looking at part of a ground lead and that the ring side is going to connect to the ground connector of your new radio.  The mystery is where the white end goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty clearly a piece that's meant to connect to a specific place in the wiring harness that, I assume, is going to give you a nice fat path to the vehicle's chassis ground.  If you're trying to reconnect it, I'd suggest thinking back to how the wire was laying when you were tugging on it.  Was it coming in from the top, the sides or hanging roughly slack over the edge of that double DIN-sized hole?  That will give you a clue as to where the other end wandered off.  Make sure to take a good look at the leads inside that white connector (that we can't see): you're going to be looking for the female end of those (or male if the gender goes the other way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you lose patience with this search, you can run a new ground line for the radio.  That it worth doing properly, though: you'd like a nice fat (and preferably shielded) conductor and a clean connection to a chassis ground (e.g., those found in the engine compartment).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in that picture matches either of those descriptions, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T18:14:19.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7718" CreationDate="2013-11-22T20:56:04.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your question, the whine is linked into braking both when the veicle is stopped or moving. I would first look at the brake servo, its hoses and valves. A vacuum leak can give a whining like noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T20:56:04.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-23T01:46:30.517" Score="4" ViewCount="29548" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I push my my clutch in at a stop it makes a weird whining noise, if I release the clutch it stops but when I push the throttle it starts again, my vehicle is a 2005 subaru wrx, the gears all shift the same, and the throttle is still very responsive, no slipping or anything. just the odd noise, what could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T01:38:59.103" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:38:59.103" Title="weird noise when I use the clutch" Tags="|clutch|subaru|wrx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2013-11-23T03:44:17.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a failing throwout bearing. When the clutch pedal is depressed the part that actually moves the fingers or diaphragm of the clutch is the throwout bearing. While the clutch is disengaged the flywheel and pressure plate assembly are still spinning at engine speed. With the clutch the face of the bearing spins while the backside is stationary and attached to the clutchfork. The bearing only spins while the clutch is depressed and that is when you hear the noise. The bad news is that replacement requires that the transmission be removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T03:44:17.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2013-11-23T10:35:55.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very very likely to be the clutch release bearing(throwout). Clutch pedal operation will feel slightly differant slightly harsher if it is the bearing, but in some cases just the same as before any noise. In one or two instances I have found a noise which seemed to be a release bearing that turned out to be the transmission imput shaft bearing wearing. Is your gearbox oil level up to the mark? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T10:35:55.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8055" CreationDate="2013-11-23T20:11:13.967" Score="4" ViewCount="32960" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Daihatsu has failed the national car test on emissions. The readings at 3500rpm are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lambda: 1.10 (normal range 0.97 - 1.03)&#xA;CO: 0.02% volume (normal range below 0.20%)&#xA;HC: 11ppm (normal range below 200ppm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this sounds like the exhaust has a hole - which seems likely as it's rather rusted. I have yet to hold my hand over the exhaust, and listen for the noise of air escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can someone confirm that this looks I need to replace the exhaust?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I also replace the lambda sensor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T10:54:23.970" Title="Failed emissions - high lambda, low HC and CO" Tags="|exhaust|rust|emissions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-24T01:33:36.357" Score="0" ViewCount="756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering either buying a Wavetrac LSD (very expensive, so that's discouraging) or rebuilding my current Detroit Locker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Locker seems to run fine except there's a lot of play in it. Would this be as simple as shimming the locker or would something more involved be required? I'm assuming this is because of the play, but the car will jerk and start forward-backward bouncing a bit if I take a turn incorrectly (if I let go of the gas in the turn while the clutch is engaged, it'll do this, for instance). There's about 30 degrees of play in the driveshaft, I think, maybe up to 60 degrees, but I don't remember exactly. I think the play is what's causing most of the inconsistencies when driving, as also when coming out of a turn, the play makes it more difficult as it has a good chance of suddenly locking once the driveshaft spins to where the differential is engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3987" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:10:58.243" Title="Would it be worth it to rebuild my Detroit Locker?" Tags="|drivetrain|rear-differential|differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-24T02:49:43.353" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dodge Intrepid 2000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car was recently wrecked.The front is bent in. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeyAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is a picture of the front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the wreck everything electrical was still working the only thing wrong with it was the alignment belt. I had that fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now everything just quit working like first it was just the blinkers and the windshield wipers. after that it was the radio,clock,the hear/air. after that the speedometers stopped working. Now nothing electrical in my car works except the flashers and the headlights/break lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4018" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T11:07:37.497" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T17:35:32.690" Title="dodge intrepid 2000 electrical problems" Tags="|electrical|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7741" CreationDate="2013-11-24T02:56:26.527" Score="4" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual 1982 diesel VW Vanagon with a 1996 Passat TDI engine in it. &#xA;This morning (low 40s temp), accelerating up a hill, heard a hissing sound in left rear.  Check tires, no problems.  Able to start back up, change gears, but bad forward lurches past 15mph or so and can't get it going above 20-25mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did just have a bunch of brake work done (new rear brake shoes, resurface brake drums, 2 new brake drums), but drove it for a few days no problems. It's been a little hard to start lately, taking a while to ignite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4019" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T06:55:25.720" Title="vanagon lurches forward, won't accelerate past 20mph or so" Tags="|engine|transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7740" CreationDate="2013-11-24T03:29:25.297" Score="6" ViewCount="3418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that pushing, towing, and jacking are all out of the question—how safe is it to dig a trench under a car that's stuck on a lawn to gain access to change out a part? Are there risks of sliding wheels due to weight being dispersed differently? I would imagine that chocking the wheels would minimize this risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4020" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T08:34:03.343" Title="Is it safe to dig a trench under a car to work on it?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7729" CreationDate="2013-11-24T03:32:18.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is tricky because of how modern cars are designed.&#xA;Something happened. I'd honestly say take this to a shop, but a few things to check around for are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery terminals and wires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the fusebox connections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all the wiring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something went haywire and may be too difficult to diagnose by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T03:32:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7731" CreationDate="2013-11-24T03:35:11.577" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean just making space under the car, right? That's how most oil lubes do it. While it is dangerous be sure to chock the wheels and yank the parking brake up and you should be fine. Best of luck, remember, safety first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T03:35:11.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2013-11-24T04:06:39.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep 4 lead acid batteries in my house in the laundry room.&#xA;1 Auto battery&#xA;1 Boat battery&#xA;1 Motorcycle battery&#xA;1 Riding Lawn Mower battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 4 are plugged into a battery tender and are on the bottom rack of a little cabinet  thing my wife got at Target with a towel underneath to avoid any drips from the non sealed battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the top rack there is 2 Ryobi 18V chargers and 2 Sears 12V chargers for all my tools as well as as another 18V charger for a hoover lynx and another charger for a battery jump starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the doors open on this cabinet at night it looks like a UFO landing between all the different colors of the charger lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this setup is perfectly safe and it is all plugged into a Surge Strip which goes out the back into a GFIC outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I have them all in the house is because of the weather. Here in Wisconsin batteries dont really like to charge to well in 0 degrees. While I am aware batteries should be stored in a cool place my mud room laundry room doesnt have a vent in it and is off the kitchen so it is always about 65 degrees. If I leave for the weekend or something I just turn the surge strip off and have no worries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4021" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T04:06:39.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-24T04:39:03.390" Score="2" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra SE-R with a P1490 Code. What's wrong with the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4022" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T23:39:40.307" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T23:39:40.307" Title="Nissan Sentra SE-R p1490" Tags="|nissan|p1490|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-12-17T13:29:59.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2013-11-24T05:33:25.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine was pulling 3amps, 3.6 amps to be exact. What had happened was my Volt Regulator, that regulates how many volts run through your car, went bad. I had boosted and jump started my battery over 30 times, I knew it wasn't the alternator because in the 90s they didn't have the regulator in the alternator and if it was the Alternator the car would run dead on the road. This wasn't the case because it charged the battery after start, nor was it the starter because as long as I had power it would always start. Replaced the battery and the next day I had the same issue. So I hooked up the Amp Meter and set it up so I could see it, and began disconnecting and reconnecting a lot of wires. It took over an hour going through all the engine's main wire connectors on one side. Got to the other side, looked at the Volt Regulator, and said 'hmm... it has a connector why not?' took me a few minutes to wrestle it loose but when I looked at the Amp Meter it was no longer reading 3.6 it was reading -0.22 like I had it set to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cause? perhaps age but most likely corrosion. Plugged it back in after cleaning it, the thing started heating up like a stove top and you could smell it cooking. A brief smoking period and I disconnected it again and knew it was done. Replaced it, and I have no draw when my car is Off and no longer have these issues. So if your having this issue as well, and your battery is going dead in a few hours or even one day of sitting. Don't be afraid to figure out where your Volt Regulator is, and find out if that could be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Car is a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII and I fixed my problem without spending more than 30$. It may be worth it to look into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this does not discredit Alternators, Starters, and Bad Wires from being a plausible cause or malfunctioning pieces. But it gives you a lead on if this is your issue. Because I couldn't find anything helpful that pointed me this way. So I'm trying to help you the reader by reaching out with my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4023" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T05:33:25.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7698" CreationDate="2013-11-24T10:07:27.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I managed to find the other end of the connector I pulled apart. Following the wire attached to the connector leads to a bracket (circled below) near the glove box. If this were to happen again, I could find this bracket then follow the wire to locate the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nra1r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bracket location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4002" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T10:07:27.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2013-11-24T11:04:56.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is complicated. Lets say we have two conditions - low revs and high injector times, and twice the revs and half the injector times. In both cases the fuel burned will be the same. This is normal - we need work done and this comes from the fuel. We have to account something else - when engine turns there is friction - the more revolutions will produce more wasted energy. So we want low revs/high. But thats one side of the story - when low rev/ high torque situation is present, there are more vibration which is again wasted energy and not comfortable at all. Some of the peripherals as water and oil pump made to work at high rpm may not be efficient in low rpm , and not enough oil may be present, in this high torque situation leading to even more friction. The alternator has its own efficiency dependent on rpm. Balance is everything - do not force the engine with 1000 rpm , but do not go past half the engine speed if economy is the desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4024" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T11:04:56.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7735" CreationDate="2013-11-24T12:47:03.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OBDII system on your vehicle has an EVAP sub-system. The EVAP system vents the fuel tank fumes to the vehicles inlet manifold and are burnt by the engine. This prevents HC's being released to the atmosphere. The system will have a vent valve, purge valve, charcoal canister, control valve and hosing with its associated wiring to operate the valves. P1490 is an indication that the control valve is not operating correctly. You need to check the operation of the system. The easy way is with a bi-directional Nissan scanner, repair shop. The scenic route involves a full inspection of the wiring and components and jump wiring the valves with an external voltage to check operation, &lt;strong&gt;NOT recommended unless you are totally familiar with the system and the fire risks.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T12:47:03.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7731" CreationDate="2013-11-24T12:58:30.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be reasonable to dig a trench under a vehicle to fit a part to a vehicle. The trench would need to be shored up so that it does not collapse inwards, especially if you are in the trench at the time. The cost of timbers and the time and effort involved to make things safe would be prohibitive. The way forward is contact your local recovery firm, explain your problem to them, and listen to their 'on the scene' advice. They will proberly drag the vehicle to good ground with a winch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T12:58:30.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7730" CreationDate="2013-11-24T13:19:38.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not think that the brake work is the problem but if you think there is a real possibility that it is, the let the person who done the repair work check it out. The engines performance depends on air, fuel, and mechanical condition all being present and correct. Any unsual or heavy noises from the engine? Check for disconnected or leaking air and vacuum hoses. Check the fuel filter, have you drained it out of any water content. Most fuel filters allow the water to be collected in it so you an drain it. In cold weather you can have the diesel freezing or at least icing up and blocking fuel flow. Last but not least fuel pressures. If everything else looks OK then your local repair shop will be needed to do a pressure check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T13:19:38.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7728" CreationDate="2013-11-24T14:09:22.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your limited slip differential has started to mis-behave then you really should take remedial action, it has become dangerous by virtue of being unpredictable, and it can only get worse. Depending on age and mileage you are looking at a replacement unit. You pays your money and you take your choice of which one. Overhauling a high mileage unit piecemeal very rarely ends up to be a reliable or viable repair. On the other hand a replacement of a straight forward premature failure of an integral component on a low mileage unit can be, and usually is feasible. I would suggest a condition report from an experienced technician would be the first thing to do just to eliminate the possibility of something being overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T14:09:22.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2013-11-24T14:42:08.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not put your bare hand over the tailpipe, it will get burnt. If you cannot hear an exhaust leak, puff puffing, you can pressurise the exhaust system with a rag over the tailpipe to make an exhaust leak more pronounced and tracible. The downside to this is that you can destroy the catalytic converter, so it is really not a good idea to do it. The way forward is to check the exhaust with eyes and ears. Eyes to see any black soot around a joint which means a leak, ears to hear a gas escape. The lambda reading you have provided may point to an exhaust leak, but without an exhaust leak it will mean a weak running condition of the engine. Prime suspects are the MAF sensor, MAP sensor, front oxygen sensor, fuel injector(s), or leaking or disconnected air hoses or vacuum pipes. Ideally with an ODBII scanner check the readings of the systems before you start spending money on replacement parts.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T14:42:08.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2959" CreationDate="2013-11-24T16:21:00.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this particular case replacing the EVAP check-valve didn't make a measurable difference to fuel economy. It seems that the amount of fuel vapour involved is very small and only really of interest from an emissions point of view. Unfortunately, I never to got the crude estimate that I was originally after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; reason for the horrible fuel consumption was the engine getting 'stuck' in open-loop mode. The ECU would enter open-loop mode (going rich to protect the engine) at a fairly high throttle setting but would not exit open loop mode until it reached a much lower throttle setting. It turned out that most of my highway driving would occur latched in open-loop mode between these two points. I would end up in open-loop mode when climbing a hill, or passing, and then stay there until I had to slow down. The vehicle had larger off-road tyres which increased the gear ratio somewhat and also increased drag, as well as a rather small engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing a rich/lean indicator for the O2 sensor, I was able to achieve the advertised fuel consumption despite having the off-road tyres, just by making staying out of open loop mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle was an Australian Daihatsu Feroza. Those came with a MAP-based EFI system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T16:21:00.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7749" CreationDate="2013-11-24T18:19:15.033" Score="5" ViewCount="7641" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just had my front tie rods replaced, and the front wheels aligned on my 97 Grand Caravan (the alignment was previously way off), and now it's a lot better, but the alignment is still a bit off... if untouched, the wheel pulls slightly to the right... not that bad, but certainly noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, is it reasonable to take the back to the mechanic who did the alignment because it is slightly off?&lt;/strong&gt; It seems like since I just had it aligned it should be straight now, but on the other hand I don't want to seem too picky since the van is 17 years old... I don't know much about car mechanics... is there something about a vehicle this old that makes it more difficult to align?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4028" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T23:32:26.677" Title="alignment not straight after alignment" Tags="|tires|old-cars|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2013-11-24T19:27:48.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is reasonable to take it back. If you find a problem with a vehicle after having work done it is only right to take it back to where the work was carried out. One good reason is that if an item has been missed on the work they will be the first to know whats gone wrong. Secondly, you have already paid for the work to be done, another repair shop would reguire paying again. Wheel alignment on an older vehicle would have a set of rules same as a newer vehicle. eg Some vehicles require loading before adjustments are made. The only other considerations for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; vehicles are vehicle condition. Tyres and pressures, springs, wheel bearings, suspension arms, steering rack/inner joints, suspension height, chassis alignment if there is a history of collision damage. All present and servicable? Any doubts and a geometry check is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T19:27:48.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7764" CreationDate="2013-11-25T04:26:24.857" Score="9" ViewCount="1055074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to remove the battery so I can replace the driver's side low beam headlight.&#xA;I didn't bother to buy a settings saver because I found the security code in my Honda's packet (I bought this car used and luckily the owner was pretty organized with documentation and maintenance records).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially when I turned on the car...I see 1:01 on the clock. Then when I turned the radio on I see &quot;CODE&quot;. So I used the preset buttons (1 ... 6) to punch in my code. However, every time I enter it I see &quot;Err&quot;. First &quot;Err1&quot;, then &quot;Err2&quot;...then eventually &quot;Erre&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also went onto this website: &lt;a href=&quot;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/framepage.aspx?theme=Honda&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/framepage.aspx?theme=Honda&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;to verify that I have the right security code (I used the radio serial number on the documentation card to retrieve the radio security code from the website) and indeed it is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing that I read to try is to hold down Preset 1 and Preset 6 buttons...and then turn the car on. Supposedly I should see the radio serial number displayed. However this did not work. I wanted to do this so that I can verify the radio serial number. I also wanted to do this because in case this radio has a different serial number I can use this serial to retrieve the security code from the website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm kind of stuck. Any Honda (2003 Accord) owners out there? What am I doing wrong? What should I do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T11:20:13.607" Title="Honda Accord radio anti-theft code not working...what am I doing wrong and what should I do?" Tags="|honda|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7752" CreationDate="2013-11-25T04:27:56.943" Score="7" ViewCount="16186" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a less than optimal 12.2 volts at the battery terminals and the bendix drive at the starter failing to pop and engage the flywheel, would battery charge be a likely cause of such a failure? Or would the fact that the starter motor runs, minus bendix action, conclude that the battery charge is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the cause; rather, the starter itself, such as a stuck bendix drive or worn brushes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the vehicle in question, a 1989 Town Car, has good continuity throughout the electrical system to the starter, and the solenoid is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4020" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T17:24:30.497" Title="Could less than optimal battery charge prevent starter bendix drive from engaging flywheel?" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7751" CreationDate="2013-11-25T06:37:12.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A less than optimal battery and a functioning solenoid you would &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; get the bendix to actuate. The less than optimal battery, would not supply enough power to have the starter actually rotate the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually audiable with a quickly repeating clicking type noise and other times by one &quot;click&quot; &lt;em&gt;[and usually the driver cussing and pounding on the steering wheel finally ending his/her rant by resting their forehead on the top of the wheel]&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is just simply free-wheeling &lt;em&gt;(spinning without first mating with the flywheel)&lt;/em&gt; then you're looking at a starter replacement or rebuild, whichever you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless while you're taking everything apart since you'll be disconnecting the battery anyways might as well check the water/acid level, top it off and give it a solid charge so it's good to go when you get it all put back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T06:37:12.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7730" CreationDate="2013-11-25T06:55:25.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if there are bubbles in the fuel. Check for bubbles in the fuel prefilter located between the tank and the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common occurance when the van has been fitted (possibly by a previous owner) with a replacement fuel tank that are built (internally) with a smaller diameter metal &quot;pick-up&quot; tube that is used to feed the fuel lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, then somewhere between that metal tube and the fuel pump, you have the possibility of cavitation. This cavitation appears to be air bubbles, but the bubbles are in fact gasoline vapor, which in turn results in sparatic delivery and lurching and a dramatic loss of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has also been cases seen where the fuel tanks have had a defective pickup tube (the metal pipe discussed earlier). These were known to crack causing air to enter the system when the fuel level was below the break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T06:55:25.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7731" CreationDate="2013-11-25T08:34:03.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must take into consideration, the looseness of the dirt that you're digging into, the moister in the dirt that you're digging into, weight of the truck, the width of the truck, the weather over the course of the time the whole is going to be used under the truck, the stupidity level inside the person that will be laying in this &lt;em&gt;pit&lt;/em&gt;, and the size of the part that you would be replacing in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, terrible idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't tow it or push it or find a way to get it out the truck must have gotten eaten by a sinkwhole or driven off the side of a boat. Either way, if you got the truck to wherever it is, you should be able to get it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T08:34:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7751" CreationDate="2013-11-25T10:31:12.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unusual to hear of a bendix starter motor now days. Most starter motors are known as 'pre-engaged' and have a starter 'pinion' operated by the solonoid. When you turn the key to start with a bendix starter motor, the motor armature spins and the inertia of the bendix causes it to wind itself along its helix, engage with the flywheeel ring gear and then rotate the engine. Reasons for poor or non-operation would be low/flat battery, poor earth/power at the motor, wear on the bendix assembly, disconnection of the bendix leaving it 'floating' on the starter, oil from a crankshaft rear seal leaking, clutch dust, and metal 'dust' from wear and tear. Another failure associated with the starter motor is that the engine, because of the compressions in the engine, always comes to rest in the same few places. With a bendix motor, the repeated impacting into the ring gear at these areas knocks out the ring gear teeth to the point where the bendix can no longer engage and turn the engine. When you check the bendix, check the ring gear. The pre-engaged motor avoids all of this by engaging its pinion first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T10:31:12.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7750" CreationDate="2013-11-25T10:55:01.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle may have had a replacement radio at some time and the serial number would then be differant. The radio is removable and will be labelled with its serial number. Have the radio removed to obtain the actual serial number on it. Carefully read the instructions for entering the code. With the radio re-installed turn the radio on. The radio must now remain on until the word code 'flashes'. A time interval is embedded into the radio which is started every time a wrong code is entered. This means that the radio has to be left turned on for a very long time sometimes as each false/wrong attempt increases the time interval.(Just turned on until the word code flashes.) After a certain number, usually about ten, of false/incorrect attempts at code entry the radio becomes permanantly locked out. The radio then becomes scrap. The insurance industry insists on this set up to make radios or such like more difficult and less worthwhile to steal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T10:55:01.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-25T16:54:17.240" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 91 Volvo 940 has been dying lately and won't restart. If you jump it, it restarts, but then sputters and stalls within about a minute. Before it stalls, the speedometer bounces up to about 20 mph even as your sitting still. The mechanic replaced the alternator and I took it back in and he sez it still tests like it needs a new alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4032" LastEditorUserId="4032" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T17:26:12.843" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T19:58:18.617" Title="Volvo 940 stalls and speedometer goes wacko" Tags="|electrical|speedometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-25T16:58:26.883" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an oxygen sensor with the wrong plug. I wonder were could I buy a plug like the one on my car in order to connect the oxygen sensor properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image of the plug on my car.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDPtT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is an image of the plug on my car&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what kind of pug is this or where could I buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4031" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T21:19:50.590" Title="Where can I buy the 2005 Mazda 3s 2.3L oxygen sensor plug?" Tags="|engine|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7762" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:01:54.343" Score="8" ViewCount="21141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my battery is on the way out - on cold mornings, it turns the engine over very slowly to start with, and takes a number of turns before the engine finally starts. This has been the case for a few weeks, but the car has always started eventually. (Note it's not the glow plugs as I had them changed a couple of months ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never use the car for anything I couldn't use train, bus or bike for, so if one day it doesn't start at all then I'm happy to sort it out at my leisure. However, I don't wish to do any damage to other parts of the car - so my question is, is a battery of this description likely to be shortening the life of any other components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4035" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T06:28:39.890" Title="Is a bad battery bad for other components too?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7758" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:18:50.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy the correct O2 sensor, hacking up the OEM harness to put a different O2 sensor on the car is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:18:50.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:37:21.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low battery voltage can cause the starter to overheat along with the cables and terminals. The lower the voltage the higher the current draw, the higher the current draw the more heat is generated, which in turn raises the current higher in a vicious cycle. This not a one time effect but cumulative. The more times it overheats the worse the problem will get, until something fails completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:37:21.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2013-11-25T22:06:13.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace, the battery; your alternator and starter will both be subjected to higher stress if the battery is low.  If you can't replace it immediately put a trickle charger on it when the vehicle is not in use.  (The rare-use scenario you outlined would justify a trickle charger whether the battery is dying or not.  But not all vehicles can be garaged, so that may not be an option.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike's answer isn't complete.  Lower voltage does require higher current draw in the case of a variable resistance load, and cable gauge, etc. dictates the higher the current going across a wire, the greater the voltage drop will be before even reaching the starter motor.  You have a diesel engine, so the higher compression ratio creates a higher load from the get go.  Other components that have a fixed resistance will actually have a lower current draw as a result of the decreased voltage which can cause a different set of problems in electronic components, but those are less likely than the increased wear and tear on your starter and alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastEditorUserId="3993" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T17:58:06.733" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:58:06.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7750" CreationDate="2013-11-26T05:51:39.803" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I called the dealer and they gave me more confidence that trying to get the serial number of the radio is the way to go.&#xA;The dealer suggested pressing 1 &amp;amp; 6 on the radio again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After MANY attempts of trying different ways to do this, I found the following to work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the radio is off...if not off, turn off. Should just see the clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press and hold preset button 1 &amp;amp; 6 down simultaneously for 15 - 20 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While still holding those buttons, press the power button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should now see &quot;U&quot; and a 4 digit number(ex: Uxxxx), then it should toggle and show &quot;L&quot; and a 4 digit numbers (ex:Lyyyy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your radio's serial number is xxxxyyyy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/framepage.aspx?theme=Honda&quot;&gt;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/framepage.aspx?theme=Honda&lt;/a&gt;, enter the appropriate information to retrieve the access code!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the card that I have when I purchased this used car had the WRONG serial number and access code. I don't know if the previous owner had another Honda or not...maybe the card goes with another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T05:51:39.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2013-11-26T09:56:44.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is there for starting the engine. Once the engine is running everything is powered by the alternator/generator. The efficiency of the battery is reduced in cold weather but should still start the vehicle. 1.Check the voltage acoss the terminals of your battery, you want to see somewhere around 12.4V. 2.Then start the vehicle and check the voltage again, you want to see around 13-14.4V. If 1. is lower than around 12.2V your battery is discharged. If 2. is lower than 13V your charging system is not charging the battery properly. If your battery is old, say three years or more and your charging system at 2. is producing a good voltage then it is time for a new battery. You can trickle charge the battery at around 2Amps and then discharge it fully with a 5W side light bulb and then recharge at 2A again. Repeating this several times will reduce the sulphation in the battery and improve its performance. It is not usually not worth while against a simple battery replacement. A battery in a low state of charge cannot hurt your vehicle in any way because when the volts drop off so does its output. A low battery charge will have no effect because of the alternator powering everything. A last check is a heavy discharge test, normally a repair shop test, where a load is put on the battery for ten or fifthteen seconds and its voltage must not drop below 9V. This tests the physical condition of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T09:56:44.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7758" CreationDate="2013-11-26T10:16:11.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have bought the wrong oxygen sensor, the correct sensor will have the correct plug on it. The easiest solution is to take it back where you got it from and have it replaced for the correct one. In an emergency situation you could cut the plug off the old sensor, leaving a couple off inches of the wires, cut the plug off of the new sensor. Then wire the new sensor and old plug wire for wire together. Not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T10:16:11.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7757" CreationDate="2013-11-26T10:44:09.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a data link connector on your Volvo. It works by flashing an LED a number of times. It would be worth checking the engine fuel and ignition systems with it to hand. www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html‎ has a good tutorial for this vehicle. Be wary of spending good money on this vehicle though, cost of parts and availability of parts can be a bit hairy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T10:44:09.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-26T15:38:58.430" Score="10" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am re-designing a Ferrari exhaust system with 2 objectives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: enhance the specific high pitch raspy sound that you expect from a small Ferrari V8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: achieve a good free-flow design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is approx 1.5m of tubing between the header and the tail pipe, where along this should I place a silencer in order to get the best raspy tone?&#xA;Does this make a difference anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 headers, would there be any advantage to using some sort of x-piece? and how will the use of that (and indeed the size of its x-flow port) effect the sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is an old 3.0L V8, and the factory exhaust has had it - factory replacements are not available and after market ones are ridiculous money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exhaust on it isn't very loud, and doesn't really do justice to the engine, as more recent cars with the same basic block sound MUCH better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T05:00:18.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T19:00:59.370" Title="Ferrari 3.0L V8 - muffler positioning, and x-flow for specific sound" Tags="|exhaust|diy|ferrari|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7768" CreationDate="2013-11-26T16:16:01.070" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are in the UK, try someone like www.simonscustomexhausts.co.uk/‎. At the least they will keep you on the straight and narrow. As you will know vehicles used in the UK will fail an MOT inspection and be prohibited for use on the Queens highway if: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An exhaust system is not adequately supported. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has a major leak of exhaust gases from any part of the system. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A catalytic converter missing where one was fitted as standard. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A silencer in such condition, or of such a type,that the noise emitted from the vehicle is clearly unreasonably above the level expected from a similar vehicle with a standard silencer in average condition.(Source- VOSA MOT manual) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to bear in mind is that if you change the exhaust you can seriously affect the engine temperatures and performance. If the gas flow is restricted from an exhaust fitment, catalytic convertors and silencers may be irrepairably damaged. A further point is the vehicle is described as 'an old V8 Ferrari'. Modifications and adaptions from the factory specification would quite possibly wipe thousands of pounds of off its value, especially when you think even a new factory fresh Ferrari would be regarded by most as a classic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T18:52:21.147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:52:21.147" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7757" CreationDate="2013-11-26T16:35:03.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the alternator bench tests okay, but doesn't work on the car, suspect the small wire connected to the alternator. This wire should be getting 12 volts when the car is switched on. It gets its power from the ignition switch through the battery light in the dash. Does the battery light come on when you turn the ignition on with the engine off? If that bulb is burnt out the alternator will not charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check to make sure that you are getting 12 volts to the small terminal or connector on the alternator with the ignition in the on position. The alternator is internally regulated so there is not much else that can be wrong if the alternator bench tests as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T19:58:18.617" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T19:58:18.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7775" CreationDate="2013-11-26T21:22:37.910" Score="4" ViewCount="1284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at this diagram to try and understand what's what under my hood, and I'm not sure what &quot;GB-1&quot; and &quot;GB-2&quot; and so on are referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTIxs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTIxs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T00:08:37.890" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T00:08:37.890" Title="What is a GB in this part diagram?" Tags="|parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7773" CreationDate="2013-11-26T21:31:09.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say without knowing the car, but based on previous experience, its likely to be &quot;Ground Bolt&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE ground / earth (-) for the electrical system to the chassis/shell/monocoque &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="2314" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T23:18:20.240" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T23:18:20.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7773" CreationDate="2013-11-26T21:59:41.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a ground, and as Digital Lightcraft &quot;Ground Bolt&quot; sounds reasonable. The picture below show another view from the same car. You can see from the picture that it is indeed a terminal that's bolted to the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH9cG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T21:59:41.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7681" CreationDate="2013-11-27T09:23:04.577" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many different products you could go with for this. Only problem is the products are usually really hit-or-miss. When I finally found one that worked well I ordered as much of it as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leathermagic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leather Magic&lt;/a&gt;, the name describes it perfectly. I used the delux kit a few times before ordering the pro kit. The delux kit sells for about $59.00 and it's ordered in the exact color that you need. They have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://leathermagic.com/color-charts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color chart&lt;/a&gt; that lists vehicle make and model so you can make sure to get the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; color of your vehicles interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Don't forget...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Before begining the repair make sure to read and follow any and all saftey precautions neccessary for whichever product that you decide to go with.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Keep in mind that it is &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; that you let the repair cure for &lt;strong&gt;48 hours&lt;/strong&gt; before sitting on the seat.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Repair Process&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the seat thoroughly using a nylon brush and cleaning detergent&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use the same soap you use to wash your car&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the areas being repaired using the supplied 220-grit sand paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the paste and fill the damaged areas&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sanding may be required between applications in order to ensure that it's a smooth finish&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;This process is critical when determining how the finished product will look. Make sure to take your time and get the surface as smooth as possible before coloring&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use as many coats as needed and again, take your time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Before&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0vjn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;before&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;After&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJR1r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The before and after photos above do not show the rips that your leather seat has, but this product should work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Remember...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you go this route then make sure to get enough of the Linen Subpatch Material. You can get sheets of 12&quot;x12&quot; for around $2.00. This material is used for patching thears and even holes in the leather. And if there is material missing and you need leather they have that as well in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://leathermagic.com/Pages/inditems.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;individual items&lt;/a&gt; section.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Linen Subpatch Material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvkzN.png&quot; alt=&quot;linen-subpatch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use this material to stuffing material in the seat. Think of it as&#xA;  foundation a house, it will be exposed but if it's uneven the house&#xA;  will be crooked. I cannot stress it enough to make sure to take your&#xA;  time and make sure that when the &lt;strong&gt;Leather Filler&lt;/strong&gt; is applied it does&#xA;  not look like a swell or cave in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leather Insert Filler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6lpku.png&quot; alt=&quot;leather-patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use this material to fill bring the hole / tear back together. Try to use as few &gt; peices as possible. Don't cut 10 peices to fill a 1&quot; hole. When you first cut   &gt; the filler cut it too big and trim it back with a razor blade. until it just    &gt; drops in, then proceed with applying the puddy material and finish up with a few &gt; layers of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="13381" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T08:38:18.130" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T08:38:18.130" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-27T11:52:03.263" Score="2" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for information on the effects of changing certain criteria in an exhaust system relating to its performance and its sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to find any resourses relating to this on the net or even in print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a protected black art?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T18:02:31.073" Title="Is there a good online resource for exhaust system design? (theory)" Tags="|exhaust|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7777" CreationDate="2013-11-27T16:37:38.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it a protected black art?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protected?  No.  Black art?  Not really.  Art?  Almost definitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually quite a few references on the design and optimization of exhaust systems for race engines.  Here is quite a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/exhaust_system_technology.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice overview&lt;/a&gt;.  Be aware, however, that optimization may be out of the reach of most DIYers.  For example, let's consider this pithy section referring to Figure 2 in the linked article: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGfcW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 2: Intake Port, Exhaust Port and In-cylinder Pressures with Effective Tuning&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second component is the result of the pressure &quot;spike&quot; which&#xA;  occurs at EVO, shown by the peak in the red line in Figure Two, just&#xA;  after EVO. That pressure spike, or pressure wave, moves down the pipe&#xA;  at the sum of the local sonic velocity plus the particle velocity of&#xA;  the gas flow. Whenever the pressure wave encounters a change in&#xA;  cross-sectional area of the pipe, a reflected pressure wave is&#xA;  generated, which travels in the opposite direction. If the change in&#xA;  area is increasing (a step, collector, the atmosphere), the sense of&#xA;  the reflected pressure wave (compression or expansion) is inverted. If&#xA;  the change in area is decreasing (the end of another port having a&#xA;  closed valve, or a turbocharger nozzle, for example), the sense of the&#xA;  reflected wave is not inverted. The amplitude of the reflected wave is&#xA;  primarily determined by the proportionate change in cross-sectional&#xA;  area (area ratio), but the amplitude is diminished in any case. For&#xA;  purposes of approximation, the particle velocity can be ignored&#xA;  because its effect is self-canceling during the round-trip of the&#xA;  wave. However, highly-accurate simulations must take it into account.&#xA;  These waves are sometimes called finite difference waves, because of&#xA;  the finite difference numerical modeling techniques used to calculate&#xA;  their propagation characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that reference to &quot;finite difference numerical modeling techniques&quot;: if those words are Scary Math then optimization is likely out of reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, putting together a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikekemper.com/elantra/diyexhaust/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quite nice exhaust for a street car&lt;/a&gt; is absolutely in reach of a DIYer with decent welding equipment, welding experience, a lift and the patience required to test-fit all the components together multiple times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I currently have none of the above.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T16:37:38.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7777" CreationDate="2013-11-27T18:02:31.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer and links given by Bob Cross offers a good and real insight into the considerations for building an exhaust system. Whilst MagnaFlow and Cherry Bomb deliver exhaust boxes to go after enhancing the sound of an exhaust I have never been able to find a tutorial to fully embrace the subject. In my dealings with exhaust companies it was always an elaborate process of pressure volume graphs, gas velocities, valve timings and component temperatures and pipe length, at an optimum engine RPM. Loads of rolling road/dyno time to prove everything. In todays street legal world, a world where CO2 is increasing the oceans acidity and nitrous oxides are taking the place of CFC's in depleting the ozone layer, there is a fortune to be made in exhausts that truely have clean emissions. This leads on to exhaust manufacturers and designers being very secretive with their developments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T18:02:31.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-27T19:17:25.467" Score="6" ViewCount="52331" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend lent me her Toyota  Corolla and as I put it in my driveway I saw oil drops. I later lifted the the hood and saw oil spilled inside the top of the hood and on the belt every where. It was showing empty on the oil dip stick and a pool of oil under the car on the driver's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4045" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T20:48:21.230" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T03:44:10.973" Title="What can cause an oil leak which spill everywhere in the car (Toyota) including the top inside of the hood?" Tags="|toyota|oil-leak|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7781" CreationDate="2013-11-27T20:47:38.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If oil drips on a pulley or a belt then the rotation of those objects could sling the oil everywhere, even as high as the bottom of the hood.   Most likely an oil leak would have to be above these components and a good guess would be through something like a failed valve cover gasket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that it is leaking near the front of the car from (oil cooler line, for example) and the wind from driving and the radiator fan could be blowing the oil to a variety of places, but I feel this is less likely to make it to the hood in any significant quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil is leaking this badly then you might be able to start the car (make sure you fill it back up with oil before you start it again) and see if you can watch and see the oil dripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just to be clear, don't drive it when the oil is empty otherwise you will create bigger problems then an oil leak.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you absolutely have to drive it before fixing it, then fill it will oil and check the level frequently to make sure it doesn't get to empty before your final destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T20:47:38.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-27T23:24:11.360" Score="2" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2003 windstar.  Both sliding doors will not open with the inside handles.  The child safety switches on the inside of the door are down, (disengaged), but the inside handles appear to be pulling on nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the inside of the door off and I see that the inside handle pulls a metal cable that loops down and terminates at a rocker arm.  This rocker arm moves when the inside handle is pulled, but is not connected to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that the outside handle works, and it moves a mechanism behind this useless rocker arm.  could there be a piece that connected the two?  I'm wondering if someone completely disabled the inside sliding door handles, and I'm looking to fix it and get a missing part if one exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T11:51:57.093" Title="2003 Windstar Sliding doors wont open from the inside" Tags="|door|windstar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7781" CreationDate="2013-11-28T11:00:09.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First job is to refill the engine with oil. Check for the correct oil in your vehicles hand book or ask at your local parts counter. Check with the vehicles owner for a history of any oil leaks. Do not start or drive the vehicle without oil. Check for the oil filler cap having been replaced correctly. Check that the PCV hoses are in place and in good condition. The PCV system vents the engine and if it is not in good working order the engine crankcase will become pressurised and force oil out of seals and joints. If the oil comes into contact with rotating parts it will be flung around the engine compartment leaving the mess you describe. With oil replaced in the engine, being mindful of rotating parts, run the engine and look for a leak. Steam cleaning is the ideal way to clean up the mess, but you can use an aerosol can of brake cleaner on a &lt;strong&gt;cold&lt;/strong&gt;  turned off engine, together with rags or paper towels. Hot parts could ignite the brake cleaner, but it does evaporate very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T11:00:09.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7784" CreationDate="2013-11-28T11:24:18.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The history of the vehicle is always a good place to start with when assessing a vehicle fault. Can you contact the previous owner to ask if the interior door handles were disconnected for a particular purpose. A second option would be to look up an online parts catalogue for your vehicle and study it for a missing/broken lock part. Both doors being inoperative at the same time will mean that they have either been disconnected, or you have a system fault. A phone call to your Ford dealer may reveal a common fault with your model of vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T11:24:18.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-28T11:58:06.250" Score="3" ViewCount="25279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a slow leak form the coolant system for a few months, if I drive the car every day I have to top up every few weeks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has 200K on the clock and is a VW Passat TDI,  I only drive less then 5K most years, I brought the car a few months ago, ex lease car with full main dealer service history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage has pressure tested the cooling system and can’t find the leak and is saying it is best to put in a “Radiator Stop Leak” product.   He cannot get to the water pump to check if for leaks without a lot of expense and the CAM belt is not due to be replaced for anther 3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T03:44:20.890" Title="Are there any disadvantages to using a “Radiator Stop Leak” product?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7787" CreationDate="2013-11-28T14:10:49.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you follow the steps exactly and don't rush it. If you don't follow them exactly, you may clog up your cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a leak recently and it turned out to be a cracked coolant reservoir. I patched it and also found a hose clamp that was not tightened properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T14:10:49.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7781" CreationDate="2013-11-28T14:46:19.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second everything jzd and Allan Osborne recommend.  I would also suggest that you clean the excess oil off before re-filling.  Once you've refilled the engine with oil let the car sit for a couple hours and do a visual inspection to see if oil is leaking again and if so, from where.  That will help immensely with troubleshooting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no leak then Allan Osbornes suggestions make the most sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what could have caused this, I had an oil pump fail once and oil was coated on everything.  Gaskets are the probable cause but thats speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for practical purposes - I'd suggest that you fill the engine with oil and have it towed to a mechanic if the leak is so bad that it's emptying the 5 quarts of oil in a short period of time.  Repairing a seized engine is going to be very costly and you might be faced with a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3892" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T14:46:19.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7787" CreationDate="2013-11-28T18:45:35.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooling system additives such as stop leaks should only be used as an emergency measure if at all. If you picture the position of the heater radiator, you will realise that they are always higher or indeed lower then the main body of the engine. This usually means you will get a mass of the stop leak blocking the heater radiator. Volkswagens have a mapped cooling system with a main and a minor cooling circuit. Radiator stop leak can easily block the minor circuit and effect the electrical thermostat passages, blocking the minor circuits. If you cannot see an external leak, look for antifreeze stains, it is a simple matter to loosen the cam belt cover and ease away it from the engine. You could then use a mirror and pencil beam LED torch to see if the tell-tale hole on the water pump is leaking. If the pump is leaking it should be changed along with the cambelt. You can also test for an internal engine water leak by using a fluid test checking for HC gases in the cooling system expansion tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T18:45:35.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-29T02:23:48.643" Score="3" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;1986 Lincoln Town Car will not start from key, but will at solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have replaced ignition switch, still does this.... turn the key and it will crank, but not fire, but turn key to ON and go under the hood and jump from the S terminal (the one that goes to the start position of the ignition switch) to the + battery cable, and it will crank and fire every time (given enough battery power to crank of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4049" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T12:56:45.397" Title="1986 Lincoln Town Car will not start from key, but will at solenoid" Tags="|ignition|lincoln|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7787" CreationDate="2013-11-29T03:44:20.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're losing coolant and the mechanic can't find the source, you need to find another mechanic that will properly diagnose the issue and offer a solution instead of a bandaid that will make the symptoms go away for a little while. Cooling systems are under quite a bit of pressure and will push out any seal that a stopleak product will create. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines get hot and it maybe hard to find the leak. One solution you can try yourself is to run the car pretty hard for a few minutes on your way home. When you get to your driveway, pop the hood and listen for any hissing or sizzling liquid sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not have a leak in your cooling system at all actually. Other problems like a leaking head gasket or, depending on the year of your car, leaking seals on a water cooled turbo, can also cause you to lose coolant. Neither of them would be helped by 'stop leak' and would just be throwing money away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T03:44:20.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2013-11-29T03:48:36.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the throwout bearing, the only thing else to check would be an accessory belt pulley/bearing going bad. If the bearing is just starting to deteriorate, the load on the engine as one accelerates can cause the bearing to whine and sound very similar to a dying throw-out bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T03:48:36.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7728" CreationDate="2013-11-29T03:59:20.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Detroit lockers aren't the most streetable differentials, but they should be a little easier to deal with than what you're describing. Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- That's a lot of play in your driveshaft and it sounds like too much to be incorrectly set backlash in the ring and pinion gear. Are your u-joints and carrier bearing (if you have one) ok? While you're checking those out, is the rear end housing square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Try to unlock it before starting a corner and gradually start your turn in while easing off the gas. There's always going to be some banging and clunking from a locker, but you can keep it to a minimum by trying to keep it unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T03:59:20.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-29T04:01:26.600" Score="3" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my motorcycles oil filter the other day and accidentally dented the outside casing of the new one putting it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know its probably nothing, but would this impact the flow of oil through the filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T21:52:38.193" Title="Slight dent in motorcycle oil filter: bad for flow?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2013-11-29T04:25:59.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopping at a body line or some other feature is a pretty standard trick that body shops use to make repairs cheaper. It's less work for them because they don't have to worry about blending in the paint finish and texture as much. Since it's on the inside of the roofrack, it isn't really noticeable on that seam. Someplace like the middle of the hood would be very easy to spot anything less than a perfect match. In your situation, some people wouldn't ever even notice it, others wouldn't care that much, and some people complain and make the shop do it correctly but those people are a definite minority which is why body shops do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it doesn't bother you, ignore it and you'll probably forget it was there. If you think it's noticeable enough that in a few years when you sell the car that this could turn off potential buyers, then you should get it fixed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T04:25:59.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7795" CreationDate="2013-11-29T12:40:36.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all probability it would be okay to use an oil filter with a minor dent in it,  but why take an unnecessary risk? For just a few dollars you can fit a replacement oil filter where the integrity of the part is assured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T20:05:26.290" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T20:05:26.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7791" CreationDate="2013-11-29T12:56:45.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this problem is in your question,&quot;I jumped the wire...&quot;. This points out a faulty cable. Broken inside of its insulation, or gone dry on one or other of its terminals. If your car turns off OK with the jump wire in place, then simply do the jump wire as a neat re-wiring job and leave that in place instead of the suspect wire. Use the same size wire or slightly thicker to avoid any heat problems. If all is OK with the jump wire in situ then its job done. If the engine will not turn off with the wire substituted you will need a wiring diagram to work out if you are by-passing any switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T12:56:45.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7453" CreationDate="2013-11-29T15:40:18.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too easy with a basic set of tools, a jack and jackstands. Let's start at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack the truck up and put it on jackstands, you'll need the jack to raise and lower the wheel which is why you need the jackstands. The shock bolts into two places, at the top in a 'shock-hoop' and at the bottom at the control arm. Unbolt the bolts from the control arm, they're probably 13mm and/or 15mm depending on if they're the original bolts. Go to the top and take a picture or two of how the shock threads up through the shock hoop with the washers and rubber bushings on each side. Your new shocks may or may not come with new bushings. If they don't and yours are cracked, grab some new ones at the part store. (note, as you're reading this go check them so you know to grab some when you pick up the shocks.) There is a nut on the topside of the shock hoop and through it, there is a rod which is connected to the shock. Hold that rod with a pair of vise grips and loosen the nut. It helps to turn the wheel or remove it entirely, but the wheel's weight helps pull it down so you can get the bottom of the shock aligned to the slot in the control arm. Your call. After some annoyance, you'll have the nut removed from the top of the shock and you can thread the rod out of the shock hoop and the shock out of the front suspension. Installation is the reverse. Start at the top, look at the picture you took and stack the rubber parts and the washer, and tighten it down. Use your jack to raise the wheel/control arm so it lines up with the bottom of the shock and bolt it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the rear. Same deal, jack it up and put it on jackstands. You're going to need to drop the spare tire to get at the top of the shocks, do it before or after you jack up the truck. Use your jack and put a slight bit of pressure under the bottom shock mounting point, leaf spring, or even on the axle itself if that works for you. The bolt that goes through the bottom bracket is under some tension from the leaf springs and it will be 10x easier to remove if you don't have the leaf springs pushing down and trying to cram the bolt and threads through the hole. Unbolt the bottom shock bracket, knowing Ford this is an 18mm nut and bolt. Tap the bolt out, and you may need a punch or a screwdriver you don't like to tap it all the way through the hole. Once that's out, let pressure off the jack slowly so that side of the rear axle fully drops. Start working on the top, this is just like the control arm at the front except with less space. Install the new one in the reverse order, starting at the top and using the jack to lift the axle up to meet the bottom of the shock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's pretty much it. Go for a cruise around the block and come back and check all your bolts to make sure that you didn't get one falsely tight because it was bound up a little bit. It also helps to spray all those nuts and bolts with some sort of 'break-free' penetrating oil, it will make the entire process a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T15:40:18.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1728" CreationDate="2013-11-30T01:30:22.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This same thing happened to me today . . .  Battery is new (changed it in Sep/2013); I also had a full tune up (even got new sparks plugs and rad flush) in Aug/2013.  The radio turned on but car did not start.  After pulling my hair out for over an hour, it turns out the vehicle was not fully in Park.  I pushed up on the selector (gear stick) and then it started with a strong purr . . .  no hesitation or anything.  I'm so glad I tried to trouble shoot it because the tow plus faulty advise about getting a new battery, alternator, etc. would cost be an arm and a leg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to other . . .  check the selector ... make sure the car is fully in Park!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4052" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T01:30:22.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7807" CreationDate="2013-11-30T15:16:57.173" Score="0" ViewCount="1214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2011 lexus ES350. I just changed the front rotors and brake pads. But i get a very bad screeching sound when i push the brake. Is this normal with new rotors and pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T04:57:19.990" Title="New rotors and brake pads screeching sound" Tags="|brake-rotor|lexus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-30T16:31:32.077" Score="3" ViewCount="17803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 06 MAzda 3 .. problem: After ABS engages, brakes go soft, and travel much further (75%) to the floor before stopping.THey do function well just way to low to the floor. This was not always the case and just started occurring. I found a Ford Fusion thread that owners complained of the same thing making me wonder if this might be an ABS industry wide failure issue. &#xA;Note: my brakes work perfectly 10 - 20 minutes after this issue occurs. Restarting the car does not appear to &quot;reset&quot; anything. I'm pretty sure this problem has nothing to do with seating new pads as was suggested on other sites. I wondering if the ABS on my car has a secondary reservoir that might have gotten air in it  as the main reservoir is full and brakes operate normally on any given non-ABS day .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noted in researching this that those with similar problem have had mechanics rebuild their brakes w. pads and rotors and in some cases master cylinders and power boosters without success.Before I start spending a lot of $$ on un-needed repairs I am hoping that someone has seen this specific problem and actually has solved it. In my searches I have found no solutions that address this specific problem with a specific answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4046" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T20:33:06.497" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T20:33:06.497" Title="After ABS engages, brakes go soft for 10 minutes or so?" Tags="|brakes|mazda|abs|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2013-11-30T17:31:13.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gears to the motor are out you can move the glass by hand,but most often the electrical component of the motor is out for one reason or another. If this is the case you can jump the motor with a cordless drill battery (even a small one will do). First get a cordless battery and 2 wires have one person hold the 2 wires on to the battery connections while you put the wires into the connections that are on the motor. The window will move up or down, if it moves up and you want it to move down reverse the wires you are holding onto the motor connections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know your thinking well if the electrical is out on the motor how's it going to work well simple the motor draws power when slight electrical malfunctions occur the amount of power the motor is drawing will not do it anymore due to the motors electrical components not pulling enough juice. By using the battery you are boosting it with 12,or 18 volts whatever battery you are using this will not hurt the motor or wiring and can get your window up in place till you get a motor or down in the place to remove the glass retainers. Also if this is the case and you want to try to fix the motor which often only requires cleaning it go on youtube and you'll find a video on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4055" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T11:02:53.880" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T11:02:53.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2013-11-30T19:08:39.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be a screeching noise when you use the brakes. (I take it that you mean the screeching sound is when you drive the vehicle.) You will have to dismantle the brakes to the extent that you did to replace your rotors and pads. You must check that the rotors and discs are exactly the same size and profile as the ones replaced. Check any bolts removed, especially for length and have been replaced into their correct holes and correctly tightened. Check the caliper sliding bolts are in the correct holes and for lengths and that they are not seizing. Anti-rattle springs fitted correctly and in place. Anti-squeal shims correctly fitted and on the correct side of the vehicle (check for arrows or indicators showing direction of rotation, they should point to the front of the vehicle). If every thing is exactly like it should be the chances are you have sub-standard or counterfeit parts and you should raise the matter with your supplier. Toyota/Lexus do not screech on brake application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T19:08:39.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2013-11-30T19:38:42.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not an industry wide problem with ABS brakes. The one problem that does arise is when an ABS system is 'opened' for any reason. Air can and will get into the system. The best way to bleed ABS brakes is with a pressure bleeder and a bi-directional scanner so that the ABS pump can be operated.This ensures the system accumalators are all bleed fully by operating the pump during the bleed process. On some models not only is this the correct way to bleed ABS brakes but it is also the only way to do the job. A simple check that can be carried out is to check the brake fluid condition with a refractor test to ensure the fluid is not contaminated. When the ABS is activated by hard braking the pedal should go hard and you will feel a strong vibration through your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T19:38:42.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2411" CreationDate="2013-12-01T04:22:47.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s worth noting that neutral is usually “half way” between 1st and 2nd, so that a shift from 1st to 2nd feels natural — the same “distance” as any other upshift. This can have the side-effect of making neutral hard to select on some bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary reason for this is that it is far more common to desire 1st gear than neutral. If you stop at the lights, you can declutch and stamp all the way down on the gear selector, and be sure you’re in 1st, ready to pull away when the light goes green. Accidentally selecting neutral in this situation would be an inconvenience at best, and at worst could lead to falling over when you try to pull away and find out you’re in neutral!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T04:22:47.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2013-12-01T04:27:55.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with many things, &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;. I was once in the car when my dad drove about 15km at highway speed, not taking any special care, before remembering that he’d drained the coolant system of his Saab 900 and forgotten to re-fill it. The engine was up to temperature by that point, but we stopped straight away, found some water, and filled it up, and no obvious damage occurred — the car still runs fine years later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you could drive a few hundred metres and blow your head gasket. In your situation, I would get a friend to tow the car to a garage, or maybe ask the garage if they can tow you — maybe New Zealand garages are just friendly but a lot of them are happy to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If towing is not an option for some reason, and it’s not leaking too quickly, I’d just pull over regularly to top the radiator up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T04:27:55.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="536" CreationDate="2013-12-01T05:01:29.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a car with a conventional manual transmission, this will rapidly wear out the synchros unless you are able to match engine RPM to target gear RPM every time you change (possible, but not easy). Stopping and starting would be impossible to do smoothly without the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many motorcycles use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequential_gearbox&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sequential gearbox&lt;/a&gt; which allows shifting up and down without the use of the clutch (but you can only shift to the next gear in each direction). You still need to use the clutch for stopping and starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T05:01:29.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2013-12-01T07:47:51.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is fine to coast in an automatic in neutral as long as the engine is running. If you stop the engine completely and coast (as is often the case when being towed), you can damage the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that the transmission circulates fluid for lubrication and cooling, and this circulation is powered by the engine. Rotating the drive wheels (coasting or being towed) without the engine running causes transmission parts to be moving without sufficient lubrication or cooling, which will wear them out much more rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T07:47:51.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2013-12-01T07:56:34.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed rating should not be the problem, according to your top speed. However, other factors may cause a tire to blowout. Considering the tire speed numbers on this website &lt;a href=&quot;http://changeatiresafely.com/tire-speed-rating.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire speed rating&lt;/a&gt;, you should be fine. But a puncture, under or over inflated tire, and low load index could be considered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4058" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T07:56:34.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2013-12-01T08:09:37.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, under-inflated tires cause drifting to either side. So check your tires' air pressure first. To find proper tire pressure, and other details, this website may help &lt;a href=&quot;http://changeatiresafely.com/tire-pressure-guide-and-tips.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire pressure&lt;/a&gt;.  Otherwise, you need to take it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4058" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T08:09:37.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2013-12-01T08:13:59.983" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is no. This is because of different radius tire and wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4058" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T08:13:59.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-01T09:15:13.427" Score="3" ViewCount="2907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will be removing at least some heat shielding if not also the headers from a Subaru Outback.  The car spent the first 6 years of its life in PA and has an excessive amount of rust on the bolts that need to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a penetrating oil and large breaker bar.  Any other tools I need to gather or prep that should be completed before I attempt removal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T21:41:46.163" Title="What tools are needed for removing rusted bolts?" Tags="|subaru|tools|rust|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7817" CreationDate="2013-12-01T14:28:51.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good fitting single-hex socket is a must. Heating the bolt to red hot in most cases will loosen a rusted exhaust bolt, a sharp rap or two with a hammer will help in some others. If all else fails and the bolts break off in the hole, you are more than likely bound to be taking off the part with the broken bolt in it and drilling and tapping the bolt out. An Old Hands trick to avoid removing parts to drill and tap the part with the broken bolt in a case such as this, is make up a few strips from an aluminium or other metal sheet. Pop-rivet a strip to the heat shield at one end, and attach the other end of the strip to a conveiniant bolt near-by. The heat shield does not carry any weight which makes this a viable option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T14:28:51.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-01T16:16:01.123" Score="6" ViewCount="48598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully someone can point me in the correct direction, or at least give me an idea about this before taking it to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other night I was driving around, streets were pretty snowy around here. I was pulling up to a stop sign and tried to stop, ABS kicked in and I eventually stopped. Seemed pretty normal given the road conditions, but perhaps it felt like the ABS came on way too early. So at the next stop sign, I went to push on the brake pedal but it pretty much went to the floor. The ABS came on again. I tried stopping a few more times and no matter what I did, the pedal went to the floor and the ABS came on every single time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2005 Mazda 3, 2.3L, 5 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried turning the car off and back on, same problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No ABS, brake or engine light on the dash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the car turned off, pushing on the brake pedal results in a very firm pushback. It doesn't goto the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake fluid reservoir is full&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did have the rear pads and rotors replaced about two weeks ago. Brakes have been perfectly fine from then, until last night. Brakes were also fine before I had these done and to my knowledge the shop didn't touch the fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get the car home, I ended up removing one of the ABS fuses. This stopped the ABS from coming on every single time I had to stop, but the brake pedal still goes to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to read about this problem, but information seems pretty spotty. I have read that some people's brakes have magically returned to 'normal' after a while...but I'm not holding my breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4059" LastEditorUserId="4059" LastEditDate="2013-12-01T19:49:37.680" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T19:21:24.730" Title="Brake pedal goes all the way to floor, after ABS was activated" Tags="|brakes|mazda|abs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7817" CreationDate="2013-12-01T21:41:46.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I have a lot of experience with this exactly situation.  We're not quite as deep into the Salt Belt as PA but still....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will be removing at least some heat shielding ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this part of the task, the most important tool that you need is replacement bolts.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1284/57&quot;&gt;Those little heat shield bolts are the absolute worst&lt;/a&gt;: they're cheap metal holding other cheap metal together, they're exposed to every sort of rust-inducing element on the road and they do nothing but cycle from one heat extreme to the other.  I'd expect that every single one of yours will snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, plan for it.  You'll want a decent metal drill bit (or extractor) to remove any remains of the bolts.  If you're &quot;lucky&quot;, the nut side of the bolt may have rust welded itself to far side of the shield.  You can decide whether it's worth trying to salvage its threads or just chisel it off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw something very similar to what I expect you'll see when I removed my turbo heat shield.  Every single one of those little bolts snapped on me.  My solution: purchase a turbo blanket and toss out the old heat shield material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if not also the headers from a Subaru Outback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Header bolts (and studs) should be much more robust (i.e., grade 8 or better).  However, their failure mode is much more annoying and / or destructive.  My advice is patience: use penetrating oil, vibration and temperature changes (repeating this cycle many times) before you hulk out on the breaker bar.  For example, my little electric impact wrench is unlikely to break off a header stud.  However, I was able to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3742/57&quot;&gt;snap a motor mount bolt&lt;/a&gt; in the block with my breaker bar (admittedly after a great deal of effort).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If things go that badly wrong, you will likely need to drill the bolt out of the block (or have access to a shop or kind soul who will take care of that for you) and fill the newly larger hole with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helicoil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the recommended procedure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patience&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to step 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaker bar and hope for the best &lt;em&gt;(how did you end up at this step anyway? ;-)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T21:41:46.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-01T21:43:14.677" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try to repair my 2002 Grand Prix's front bumper cover with a plastic welder, but all the labels are faded and I can't figure out where the type of plastic is stamped.  Does anyone know exactly where to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I found a reference that says what type of plastic is used, but I'd still like to know where to look to find it stamped on the bumper itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urethanesupply.com/bumperid.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Urethane Supply Company&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix (fwd) GT|GTP; SE/2nd design Front TPO or&#xA;  TEO (Thermo Plastic Olefin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3717" LastEditorUserId="3717" LastEditDate="2013-12-01T22:00:37.430" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T17:02:09.690" Title="Where is the type of plastic stamped on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix front bumper cover?" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7867" CreationDate="2013-12-01T22:19:33.130" Score="7" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my first accident two days ago (minimal injuries so don't worry about that), and it's got me thinking about a lot of different aspects to driving and cars, such as braking. Had my braking been even slightly less effective, it would have been a very different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lead me to do research on cars with good 60 mph - 0 mph distances, but in doing so someone claimed that it was effectively just a tire comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is this true? Assuming brake pads which are able to lock up the tires and ABS, and ignoring downforce, is it all just down to the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To specify the scenario, let's say it's a one-off (i.e. normal temps) hard brake from 60 mph to 0 on asphalt. Let's consider both a perfectly smooth road, and a slightly bumpy road.&#xA;Ideas on other potential factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight of car&lt;/strong&gt; - physics tells me that friction is proportional to the normal force, so I figure this doesn't matter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension stiffness&lt;/strong&gt; - this would lessen the front dipping, but does that even affect braking distance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension rebound&lt;/strong&gt; - a poor rebound would possibly cause momentary airtime if the road is bumpy, would this be substantial?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chassis rigidity&lt;/strong&gt; - would a chassis that warps a bit more under heavy forces cause some tire skipping or something?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS quality&lt;/strong&gt; - ignoring EBD, is there a substantial difference in the effectiveness of ABS between car models? My '94 3-series BMW doesn't seem to shudder like my parents' '02 Corolla. At a guess, shuddering may be brief moments of the tires skidding or of the brakes releasing - neither would be great.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) might be a help, but I may just put that in another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T01:43:33.113" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:10:13.687" Title="Assuming identical and sufficient ABS, and ignoring aerodynamics, are tires the only factor for braking distance?" Tags="|tires|performance|braking|abs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7832" CreationDate="2013-12-01T22:24:03.257" Score="1" ViewCount="6311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a car has good ABS, is EBD only beneficial for inconsistent surfaces (e.g. patches of gravel, oil), or is it still beneficial for high quality roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it helpful while braking through a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T23:11:59.307" Title="When is EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) beneficial?" Tags="|brakes|braking|ebd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7822" CreationDate="2013-12-01T23:13:27.860" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of vehicle dynamics question best addressed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.millikenresearch.com/rcvd.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racing Car Vehicle Dynamics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What follows is a basic discussion at the high school physics level.  As you will see from the reference text, high school physics is insufficient to statically model the complete vehicle system.  A dynamic model is required to agree with easily obtainable experimental data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assuming brake pads which are able to lock up the tires and ABS, and&#xA;  ignoring downforce, is it all just down to the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weight of car - physics tells me that friction is proportional to the&#xA;  normal force, so I figure this doesn't matter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incorrect.&lt;/strong&gt;  Mass is the dominating factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your critical equation here is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/89F8N.gif&quot; alt=&quot;d = \frac{1}{2} a t^2 + v_0 t&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDcA6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;a = \frac{F}{m}&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; is your stopping distance and, as you can see, it is defined in terms of your acceleration &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; (deceleration in your case), your initial velocity &lt;code&gt;v_0&lt;/code&gt; and the time required to get to speed zero &lt;code&gt;t&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; is the decelerating force of the entire vehicle and its braking system while &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; is the mass of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For completeness: to solve for &lt;code&gt;t&lt;/code&gt;, you're best off using the energy equations.  However, the above two equations are sufficient to do a numerical approximation in the spreadsheet of your choice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all other things being equal, you can easily see that the mass of the vehicle dominates the entire system.  If you change nothing else, a lighter vehicle stops faster (higher acceleration for the same force).  Two identical cars with a different number of passengers will slow at different rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Experimental confirmation:&lt;/strong&gt; All of this discussion is fun but solid physics should be confirmable (or falsifiable) using an experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials required: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fully fueled car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A measured course for 60 mph braking tests (i.e., a straight track, a Brake Here sign and 10 meter markers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An additional load of 20 fifty pound bags of sand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform ten braking tests from 60 mph without the additional load.  Measure the distance required to stop on each run.  Note that back-to-back runs will likely induce brake fade (the distance will increase with brake temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Refuel the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add 10 fifty pound bags of sand to the vehicle (for a total of 500 additional pounds).  Repeat the same braking tests from 60 mph on the same course.  Note the stopping distances.  Note that the distances required to stop are longer.  Note that back-to-back runs are resulting in increasingly severe brake fade (i.e., those long stopping distances are getting longer much faster).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Refuel the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add 10 more fifty pound bags of sand (for a total of 1000 additional pounds).  Repeat the same braking tests.  Note that stopping distances required are much longer.  Note that back to back runs are resulting in brake fade much more quickly (possibly reaching a state of terrifying as the brakes seem to cease to function).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning to our original equations, we can see that as &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; increases, there is a distinct increase in the distance &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; and time &lt;code&gt;t&lt;/code&gt; required to stop.  If &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; were a pure kinetic or static frictional force, we would expect it to increase linearly with &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt;, resulting in nearly identical stopping distances.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is not the case at all, we can conclude that &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; is not an idealized frictional force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So assuming the same tires, and brakes that can hold the tires at that&#xA;  maximum static force, I don't see why mass would increase braking&#xA;  distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the situation would be very simple if a car were an ideal solid block from a physics textbook (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spherical_cow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a spherical chicken&lt;/a&gt;).  In your comment, you're substituting &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; in several places as if it were always the same on every wheel.  This would be the case if we were talking about a physics problem.  Unfortunately, an actual car is a hollow box sitting on springs, riding on round balloons made of rubber and steel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mention the normal force, you're talking about the force of the tire patch on the road.  This situation would only match the basic friction function if the vehicle were non-moving with locked brakes.  There's an amount of force that's going to be required for me to push this heavy thing across the parking lot (with tires screeching the whole way, I assume).  Heavy car =&gt; harder to push.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, none of the above is actually relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is that the normal force used for kinetic friction to stop the car isn't the tires.  It's actually the force of the brake pads on the rotors (or drums but I'm assuming disk brakes for the sake of having something easy to point at).  Their clamping force is what actually slows the wheel.  That only results in slowing the vehicle if the tires are statically coupled to the surface.  A wheel that stops spinning is skidding, not braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suspension stiffness - this would lessen the front dipping, but does&#xA;  that even affect braking distance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suspension rebound - a poor rebound&#xA;  would possibly cause momentary airtime if the road is bumpy, would&#xA;  this be substantial? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chassis rigidity - would a chassis that warps a&#xA;  bit more under heavy forces cause some tire skipping or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that increases the tire contact patch will increase the ability of the road to induce a torque on the wheel (and vice versa).  A big patch will grip the road well, keeping the wheel spinning and allowing the brakes to use more gripping force before the wheel stops, skidding the tires.  A smaller patch grips poorly, resulting in a skid with much less gripping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where your ABS system attempts to optimize a bad situation: it tries to keep all the wheels from stopping by relaxing and re-gripping the clamping force of the brakes near the limit of traction.  This modulation of the brakes is exactly what a skilled driver will attempt to duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is it worse to have the majority of the load on two tires instead&#xA;  of four?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the braking system is the totally reliant on the use of the brake disks and the clamping force that it can apply before the wheels lock.  As the weight leaves the back tires, their contact patch approaches zero.  As a result, the braking system cannot apply much clamping force before those wheels lock (i.e., they're now out of the picture).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, shifting the weight forward has increased the contact patches of the front tires but they haven't doubled (this is a consequence of many things, including that each is an air-filled balloon that doesn't spread linearly with an increase in the weight it supports).  As a result, each front tire is now receiving less than two times the torque that each tire was receiving before the weight transfer.  Consequence: each front rotor can be gripped with a higher force but not double the force, resulting in reduced braking and longer stopping distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ABS quality - ignoring EBD, is there a substantial difference in the&#xA;  effectiveness of ABS between car models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can really only be answered in terms of a specific situation.  What is the scenario?  What tires are in use?  Snow vs. ice vs. sand vs. rain?  Cold or hot tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, any modern ABS system is better than none.  It is close to optimal when compared to the average driver, their situational awareness and their reaction times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a very skilled driver brake better without ABS than they would&#xA;  with ABS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I firmly believe that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Schumacher&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michael Schumacher&lt;/a&gt; could out-brake me on the track, in the same vehicle, no matter what ABS system I were to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're a champion Formula One driver (or an effective equivalent), I put it to you that this is a meaningless comparison when you talk about driving in the real world, on real roads with real people who aren't paying nearly as much attention as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:10:13.687" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:10:13.687" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-01T23:40:03.270" Score="1" ViewCount="1616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if a 2008 Honda Odyssey can hold a full size spare tire, or will it only fit the donut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4061" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T15:45:45.300" Title="Can a 2008 Honda Odyssey hold a full size spare tire?" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T00:44:26.660" Score="1" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought a tuning box a few months ago. When I fitted it, it didn't work so I sent it back. They tested it and it was working fine, so I tried it again, but it wouldn't make my car any quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought I'd just go for a remap. Had this done and again no difference in power. My car has plenty of power and seems quick, so it not losing lots of power. I dont think, I just don't understand why the tuning box and remap won't increase bhp? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4062" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T17:30:29.553" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T22:51:39.503" Title="Why didn't tuning box or remap work on my mondeo st tdci" Tags="|engine|ford|diesel|tuning|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T01:20:59.577" Score="1" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving to work this smorning when my car started shaking and losing power no matter how much I put my foot down after about 2km of driving it started working fine again but the engine has a ticking noise occasionally when low in revs, it also had a weird smell to it, sorry I can't define the smell, does anyone have any suggestions it's a proton jumbuck 2003 model &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4063" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T15:42:24.327" Title="Proton jumbuck loss of power/shaking" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2013-12-02T04:36:23.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles are on the Engine? Any OBD codes?&#xA;Check for vacuum and exhaust leaks. If non appear then check the oil level. After that if the oil looks good, run the car, let the engine warm up and then remove the fuel filler cap or dipstick, look for smoke. If there is smoke the engine is burning up oil. This could be a problem you are having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all looks good there, it may be a burnt valve. That is the nuclear option. If it is low mileage this probably wont occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticking is usually caused by Lifters in the engine when the oil level is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T04:36:23.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2013-12-02T04:43:13.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a fault somewhere in the sensors.&#xA;ABS uses Wheel Speed Sensors to determine when the brakes are at chance for locking up by monitoring the wheel speed. If one of those sensors becomes damaged or malfunctions it may cause the ABS to come on prematurely or even all the time. If no OBD 2 codes exists, physically pull them to look at them. Big, grey plastic with an elbow to it. One may be going bad, which if they have never been replaced is a good guess. ABS diagnostics systems do not usually monitor these for issues, so it could be bad and it would never know. So I would check those :)&#xA;Most other issues would illuminate the bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T04:43:13.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2013-12-02T09:44:12.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS system is in effect an add-on to the vehicles brake system. You found this to be the case when you removed the fuse and normal braking was present. The ABS system has a module to control the sequence of solonoid operated valves which apply and release the brakes according to the performance of the ABS wheel sensors against a performance map stored in the module. The way forward is a scan on the ABS system to find any indications of a fault. If no codes are stored but the system does not operate correctly the most probable cause is the module. A second but less likely fault is that one of the solonoid vales has become jammed open and allowing a circulaton of the pressure inside the valve body and not to the brakes. Here in the UK we have companies that overhaul and replace IC chips in ABS modules and this usually works out to be very much cheaper then a full ABS replacement unit. First Stop - System scan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T09:44:12.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2013-12-02T12:18:40.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without other modifications the typical increases in power from tuning adjustments/remaps will not be that noticeable because they are small increases.  If you are putting the car on a dyno then you should be able to see some effect, but just driving the car around you would not likely be able to detect much of a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to increase your power, look at what mods can make significant impact without breaking your budget.  This normally means actual hard part changes, but tuning is important to keep up with as you are moding the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, continue to think about keeping everything in balance:  You don't want a car with high HP and poor brakes, or upgrades that don't deal with bottlenecks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T12:18:40.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7823" CreationDate="2013-12-02T12:37:31.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EBD is the most important part of the braking system. You can have ABS or not (older cars did't have it) but you can't drive without EBD. Older cars were equipped with the mechanical brake force regulator that has similar functionality as the EBD nowadays.&#xA;In short EBD is responsible for keeping the rear wheels from locking while braking. The rule is that you can have the front wheels locked it will just make the braking distance longer (and the car won't response for steering) but you can't have rear wheels locked because it will make your car immediately turn around. The same happens when you pull your hand brake and lock rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So EBD is the part of the ABS, they are not actually separate systems. It's just the name of one of the functions that ABS does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do ABS (EBD) help while braking through a turn ? Of course it does. It was invented mostly for this purpose (to let the dirver turn while braking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Sorry for my poor english :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4066" LastEditorUserId="4066" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T12:43:22.683" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T12:43:22.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2013-12-02T12:40:57.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all the labels are faded or removed then you will have to refer to the main dealer for exact information of your bumpers composition or indexing. A second line would be to query the plastic welding rods available to buy are listed by the supplier as compatable with your vehicle. A third option would be a vehicle dismantlers as they would need to stream components for streaming when re-cycling. They would possibly be aware of any distinguishing marks on various components to do the re-cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T12:40:57.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7822" CreationDate="2013-12-02T13:15:56.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One point to remember and bear in mind is that the main criteria in all of this is the coefficient of friction of the tyre. This affected by the tyres pressure. If you were to have a given vehicle on a cold flat highway with good tyres at correct pressures your braking would be optimal. Any variation from this, argumentatively ideal situation, would detract from the braking performance. Road conditions, tyre quality, pressures, weather and vehicle state of repair all have their influence. ABS systems are usually manufactured for the car manufacturer, this means you have the same system on very many makes and models. All the ABS systems you will find will be indistinguishable from each other. Price of the systems will be a difference, as some maufacturers will import components that they have exactly made for them in countries where labour and health and safety concerns are less so making them cheaper. (VW do not make their own gearboxes, they are made in Japan.) Micheal Schumacher had the benefit of telemetry, GPS, and Ross Brawn, as well as un-resricted access to the racing arena to practise to perfect his braking. Oh yes, he did have a little talent as well :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T13:15:56.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7836" CreationDate="2013-12-02T13:47:57.983" Score="5" ViewCount="34725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have new Toyota Yaris Trend 2013 and wondering what should be the tyre pressure in front and rear tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4068" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T15:29:50.120" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T08:35:43.417" Title="Tyre pressure for Toyota Yaris" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2013-12-02T13:53:24.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire pressures are listed on a sticker in the drivers door jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/itU6T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uVVXI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T13:53:24.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7823" CreationDate="2013-12-02T14:03:39.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;EBD is better understood as Electronic Stability Programme(Anti Skid). Any given wheel sensor of the ABS(Anti Lock) will determine the slip angle of the wheel its on. Slip angle is basically the difference between the speed of the individual wheel and the speed of the vehicle ie. lockup. Weight transfer to the front of the vehicle when braking would normally permit the rear wheels to lock up, the ABS would stop the lockup from happening. The maximum braking of the rear wheel would be maintained to the point of locking up. EBD/ESP will take a reading from the steering angle sensor of the vehicle together with a reading from the lateral yaw sensor and deceleration sensor, compare it to its 'map' and then apply the brake to a 'single wheel lock up and release' to bring the vehicle back onto its implied direction from the steering angle sensor. A system such as ABS and ESP, which has been universally adopted as it has been, must in itself prove its viability in road safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T14:03:39.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2013-12-02T14:22:08.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way forward to answer your question would be to remove one of your full size wheels and try it. You would avoid all possibility of being mislead by tyre sizes, wheel rims and the such like available across the range of your vehicle. Cans of compressed gas and sealant are available to effect a temporary repair to allow a vehicle to get to a tyre shop  a lot cheaper then a full size wheel and tyre. If the concern is what would happen in the event of a puncture you may be able to take consolation in the stats available which say you will only get a puncture once every eight years. But then again it has been said that stats '...are lies, more lies and damn lies - Winston Churchill'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T14:22:08.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2013-12-02T14:53:32.153" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Mondeo has plenty of power as it comes out of the factory. The specification of the vehicle would have been tested over thousands of miles under many and varied conditions. All of this means that your Mondeo is at its optimal best. Fuel economy, power, noise, and emissions are all at their optimal best. If you were to buy and use a piggy back box, or were to have a re-map, and your engine was to blow or you became involved in an accident which could be shown to be caused by the alteration, who would be responsible? Your insurance company would not want to know if you had not declared the mods to them. If you did declare them the insurance would in all proberbility decline cover. To modify your vehicle for power or anything else would involve a host of adaptations, as outlined by jzd, and it would end up not entitled/legal to be on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T14:53:32.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2013-12-02T15:11:36.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have three tyre sizes on your car, 165/70 14, 32Front 32Rear; 175/65 14, 32F 32R; 205/45 17 29F 28R. As Larry has pointed out, you will find a decal giving tyre sizes and pressures on the door jamb or on the inside of the fuel flap. They will also be present in the vehicles handbook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T15:11:36.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2013-12-02T15:30:35.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screeching belts from time to time would be signicant. If you have a failing water pump, alternator, power steering pump, belt tensioner or AirCon unit they can act as a brake on the engine and give the symptoms you describe. Recent work in this area would mean a very close examination of any components affected by the belt change. The smell could be coming from a belt skidding as it tried to turn a partial seizing component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T15:30:35.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2013-12-02T16:31:18.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the baking soda and water, its cheaper than terminal cleaner and you probably already have it in your refrigerator. Terminal cleaner does exactly what it says it does, it cleans terminals, it does not neutralize acid.  Coke is a last resort.  The idea is to neutralize the acid, baking soda does this.  Coke is an acid, not a base, it adds to the problem, not to mention you don't want ants in your engine compartment.  Always disconnect the ground/black/negative/neutral terminal first, and reattach it last. Make sure the terminals are all the way down on the post for best contact.  Use a wire brush to clean the terminals and the battery post.  They sell brushes made for this at the parts store for less than five bucks. Can use a standard wire brush as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4070" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T16:49:28.170" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:49:28.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7822" CreationDate="2013-12-02T16:59:41.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the following things all play a role in stopping distance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight of the car,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;grip&quot; of the tire. Softer and wider (and a little under-inflated) is better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The proper distribution of braking across all tires. In an ideal scenario, all four tires will be given an equal amount of braking work (but see the next point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the degree to which each wheel's burden is similar to the others. When you brake, the car's center of mass shifts forward. This means that your front brakes do between 60% and 80% of the braking. If this can be made more 50/50, it would help.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A suspension+shock set up that will keep each wheel in contact with the road as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*WRT #4: it is extremely impractical to set up your car's suspension components to keep the center of mass in a 50/50 distribution during braking. I don't think it's even physically possible. But if it was you would have an extremely hard and uncomfortable front suspension, whilst the back would be marshmallows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T16:59:41.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T17:29:12.610" Score="2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this year, I had my CEL come on on my '05 Mazda 3 due to P0128 (asked about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6122/p0128-coolant-temp-below-thermostat-regulating-temp&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). I cleared the code, and it never came back. Six months later, I have the code P0126 come up and now I'm wondering if I should be replacing my thermostat or doing something else? And my follow up question will be - how do I actually do the replacement or other suggested task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INFO:&lt;/strong&gt; My engine temperature on my dashboard shows that it is below the range of temperatures when I start my car, and stays there until I start driving around 2 miles.  It also doesn't get to the middle of the temperature range until I am at highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T05:16:37.103" Title="Should I Replace my Thermostat? If yes, how?" Tags="|mazda|cel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7849" CreationDate="2013-12-02T18:10:04.453" Score="4" ViewCount="71892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLS 4Cyl 1.8L Wagon with a manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my clutch replaced about a year ago. A couple months ago, it started having intermittent problems getting out of reverse. It never has any problems getting into or out of any other gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it's not a problem with the shifter itself, it feels deeper than that - the two ways I can get it out of reverse are to pull &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hard (what my wife does) or finesse the clutch pedal to engage ever-so-slightly while I ease the shifter out of gear (what I do). (Either of these methods less damaging than the other?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it to the original mechanic a couple weeks ago and they didn't see anything wrong, so I'm going to have to get a better understanding of this myself if I want to narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:30:35.050" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T18:19:51.613" Title="Why would a manual transmission intermittently get &quot;stuck&quot; in reverse?" Tags="|vw|clutch|manual-transmission|shifting|jetta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2013-12-02T19:36:47.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should think of the temperature gauge on the dash as more of an indication of the engines temperature rather then the engines actual temperature. Some generic OEM ECU programme maps will replace a faulty temperature reading with a substitute value to operate the vehicle and in some/most cases you would not notice the difference. Use an OBD2 scanner to see the reading from your engine temperature sensor, OBD2 readings are the actual readings of the sensors and are never substituted, generic/OEM are occasionly substituted. Checking the engine with an infra red thermometer is also a good check to confirm or cross reference temperatures. Also with an OBD2 scanner check that all the monitors have run. You need to run a drive cycle for the vehicle if they are not all set to completed. If there is a secondry DTC present then a lot of earlier ECU drive cycle programmes will not run at all and you could drive around indefinitely with a fault which would not turn on the check light. A drive cycle must be run exactly, even having the radio on or off can effect the running of earlier set ups. Your thermostat may be electrically heated, check for code P0597/0598/0599. Check the sensors and monitors with OBD2 first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T19:36:47.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7859" CreationDate="2013-12-02T19:43:04.297" Score="24" ViewCount="122767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading mixed reviews about how long to let your car warm up before driving in the winter months. Most of the articles say that the best way to warm it up is to let it idle for 1-2 minutes, then drive gently until it reaches its optimal temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start the car in cold weather the tachometer usually sits around 1500 rpm - 1750 rpm. When it has been running for a while it idles at 750 RPM and the car runs much smoother when it's at this point. It takes almost 10 minutes of idle to get it warmed up to 750 rpm (in about -10* weather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it smart to idle and wait for it to get to its regular RPM before driving off?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will driving off before it gets to a low RPM be harmful to the car in the long run? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4072" LastEditorUserId="17351" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T05:36:23.903" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T12:15:16.870" Title="How long should I let my car warm up in the winter?" Tags="|winter|warmup|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-02T20:08:04.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car idles high in the cold because of poor air/fuel ratio. The car makes certain adjustments, causing the RPM to be a little higher. Letting it sit until the RPM goes down will not hurt the car and is the best practice for letting it warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T20:08:04.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7845" CreationDate="2013-12-02T20:10:12.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is going to be one of the following areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clutch&lt;/strong&gt;, engine off, press the clutch pedal slowly to the floor. The resistance of the clutch is felt all the way until an inch or two before reaching the floor it should then go to a lighter resistence. This is the clutch diaphragm spring throwing over and it is what you want it to do. If OK you can assume the clutch is OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Linkage&lt;/strong&gt;, engine off, have an assistant move the gear change lever through its full range of movements, rocking the lever towards and away from its position when a gear-selected position. Watch for undue movement or slack in the linkages. This movement can jam the linkage in the selected position. While doing the linkage check, remove the gearlever gaiter to check the gearlever ball joint is sound and that there is no obstruction to the lever that should not be inside the boot. Make sure any bolts that there are, are tight on the whole set up. If you find you have to disconnect anything, mark their position with office correction fluid so you can replace them back in their exact position. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gearbox&lt;/strong&gt;, internally the gearbox has roll pins, set screws and detents which control the engagement of gears and the selector lever positions. This is a gearbox removal and stripping job, but with the reliability of the VW gearboxes is the least likely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Turning the engine off can in a lot cases make in easier to come out of gear. When you are in neutral just start up and carry on.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4071" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T23:08:15.373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T23:08:15.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-02T20:42:22.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine coolant temperature sensor in your cars engine, together with its inlet air sensor work together to decide the operating of your cars engine at start up. When its cold the fuel injectors are commanded to inject extra fuel, and your cars idle speed control valve is commanded to increase idle speed to prevent the engine stalling from a now richer mixture. As the engine warms up, the engine management system trims it back to the lower idle speed you describe. This is what it is supposed to do. As long as the temperature does not drop to the point where it freezes the engines oil, driving the vehicle considerately will not harm the engine. The advances in the technology of metals used today afford them properties way in excess of what they were a couple of decades ago. Simply put the engine runs better when its at its operating temperature, take it easy till then. In extreme cold conditions an engine block heater set up may be a good idea. My son took a snow sports holiday in Canada from the UK, and he told me it could get very very cold, overnight especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T20:42:22.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2013-12-02T21:34:22.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check intake + exhaust valves, thay aerial more than likely the problem. they have to be set every 1000 miles, otherwise no start or hard start in cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4074" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T21:34:22.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T22:43:12.757" Score="1" ViewCount="1387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have followed the steps several times to program my 2006 Chevy Malibu but for some reason the keys will not program and the security light does not go off I have also let it sit for more than 10 minutes the security light still doesn't go off are there any other suggestions or should I just try letting it wait longer for the key to try to program&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4075" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:33:53.113" Title="programming a 2006 Chevy Malibu key" Tags="|chevrolet|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-02T23:18:00.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're over thinking this. When it comes to basic operation, Your owners manual will tell you everything you should do and more. I would suggest going by whatever it says...If it doesn't say anything about cold weather starting, then nothing to worry about. I've read more opinions over the years suggesting that idling more than a couple of minutes is actually bad for your engine than I've read that it's good. Sure, it's a good idea to give it a few minutes before driving off when it's really cold, but it's more of a guideline than a rule. I find its good to keep the engine below 3000 rpm till its warmed up. Bottom line is, it's a well made modern car...use common sense, and you'll be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4076" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T23:18:00.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2013-12-03T05:43:03.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the vehicle in question as to whether it saves fuel, and/or is detrimental to  the auto tranny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the engine is running, it is rotating the torque converter, which in turn is pumping fluid around the auto box. This keeps all the bands, clutches, servos etc lubricated no worries.&#xA;When going back into gear, if you're not rolling up to a stop sign or red light or similar, it may help to increase the engine revs a little to match the revs the vehicle would be doing at that road speed. This will reduce any shock loading on the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for saving fuel, it depends on the vehicle, carbie cars, and early injected vehicles, it will definitely save fuel. &#xA;On later vehicles, with more sophisticated electronics, Your mileage may vary. Some vehicles will cut fuel to all/most injectors in a closed throttle position. Where as at idle, and in neutral, all cylinders are getting fuel to keep the engine running smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4077" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T05:43:03.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2013-12-03T10:55:13.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working in the power industry for 15 years as an operations engineer. Power stations require DC (battery) power as a secondary / back up power source should the AC (mains / system power) supply develop a fault resulting in loss of primary power hence all power stations have battery banks to supply critical motors &amp;amp; control systems to safely shutdown the plant &amp;amp; then address the fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point: the battery banks are considered a major hazard in the industry, classified as hazardous areas with restricted access requiring atmosphere monitoring. Batteries release hydrogen when charging, for that reason the batteries are housed in a separate enclosure with forced ventilation (ventilation fans). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted we are talking a much larger scale, but the batteries used are batteries you will find in lorries or similar just lots of them. The size of the enclosure &amp;amp; ventilation flow is all relative, as the enclosure is large &amp;amp; fans capable of displacing vast amounts of air, so a small battery in a small enclosure with no ventilation presents a similar sort of hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans have redundancy built in, meaning 2 fans (1 duty, 1 standby) further demonstrating the significance of the hazard batteries present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the vent fan running signal is fed back to the control system &amp;amp; alerts the control room staff of failure, this also cuts out the battery charger. Ie the batteries will not charge if no vent fan running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charging batteries in a cupboard with no ventilation in your home is far from ideal, hydrogen is the most volatile of gases (explosive range is 5%-75% volume in air) meaning any significant release of hydrogen is almost certainly going to become an explosive mix of fuel/ air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charging a large volume of batteries in a home coupled with the number of ignition sources in a house is asking for trouble, a hydrogen explosion is quite something, do a quick web search on hydrogen explosions, it may sway your choice of charging options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A saying in our industry is 'routine wrong' it relates to things we know &amp;amp; do that are wrong but haven't had an incident, just because nothing has happened in the past it doesn't guarantee it won't happen in the future, luck is often the reason incidents have not occurred or on the flip side of the coin bad luck &amp;amp; poor judgement is the reason incidents occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever nearly all incidents are avoidable, so why take the chance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is take heed of the comments leaving the battery in the car, if like the gentlemen in Wisconsin the ambient temperature isn't conducive to charging a battery follow the advice on the other comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly &lt;strong&gt;charge in well ventilated area.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4078" LastEditorUserId="13131" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T17:06:57.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T17:06:57.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2013-12-03T11:00:16.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remaps are often not about significantly increasing the top-end power, but changing the shape of the power and torque curves to suit the intended use of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal road car, such as your mondeo, will be tuned to suit the average road driver - it will idle nicely at rest, and pull fairly smoothly through the lower end of the range, and will be fairly frugal with fuel. A competition car, on the other hand, will have a different set of requirements - they won't be concerned with idling or economy, so will tune it to get the best acceleration possible - matching the torque curve to the gearset as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of it therefore depends on what you want by 'quicker' - making a car get a better time over a quarter mile at your local drag strip is very different from cutting a few seconds off your lap time at Spa, or a forest stage...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with jzd, think about the balance. If you're after a fast road car, tyres, brakes and suspension bushes make far more difference than small power increases. For that matter, so does getting a bit of professional driver training (which has the added advantage of being fun!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T11:00:16.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-03T11:07:21.157" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agreee with the articles - waiting a minute or so (generally the time it takes to clear the ice off the windows...) is generally fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other answers say, the engine will idle high to start with, as the ECU compensates for the colder block and thicker oil by running the engine richer. This will cause more wear to the engine, as the oil is thicker and so won't lubricate as well as normal, but it will do so whether you are stationary or moving, so you might as well be moving. The key thing is to make sure the engine gets a chance to warm up properly over the course of the journey - lots of short journeys in cold weather will be bad for the engine as the wear will be proportionally higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T11:07:21.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7845" CreationDate="2013-12-03T13:09:19.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first guess would be that the clutch isn't decoupling properly. My wife's car had the problem from the other end: she couldn't get it INTO reverse. I ended up slightly adjust the clutch cable so that it started engaging earlier and now the problem is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Jetta doesn't have a clutch cable, then the whole thing is going to get a bit more technical, but it's still the most basic thing to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T13:09:19.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2013-12-03T16:51:34.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to Larry's question 'What are doing?' have you tried another one of your keys for the vehicle? With your second key, lock the doors with it via the lock. Then open the door with it via the lock. Does it work now? If not lock the doors with the button on the key. Unlock the the doors with the button on the key. Does it work now? The above little run around is because sometimes cycling the system can do a reset. If at the end of cycling the keys it will still not turn off your immobiliser to start the engine then you are having a problem with: 1. The chip in the key is either lost or corrupt, or 2. The inductance winding in the steering coluum has failed, or 3. The vehicles ECU has failed or the vehicles instrument panel has failed. If the system does not respond to the run around then you will need a system scan to establish the exact fault area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T16:51:34.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-03T21:26:01.493" Score="1" ViewCount="1896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem with the engine of my W123 (the engine is gasoline, 2L, 80kW with a Stromberg 175CDT carb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold (less than ~50C or so), it acts weird. When I want to accelerate from slow speeds (first, second gear) and press the accelerator, the car delays a second or two and then jumps forward. This happens once or twice and then does not happen until I turn the engine off and then start it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;As it is now much colder outside, I think I have found the actual problem symptom. When I start the engine, while it is cold, if I quickly press the accelerator (without the car being in gear), the engine just stops. After a minute or so of warming up it works properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastEditorUserId="2012" LastEditDate="2014-01-26T05:44:10.573" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T14:28:39.280" Title="Mercedes W123 engine &quot;jumpy&quot; when cold" Tags="|engine|mercedes-benz|carburetor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7823" CreationDate="2013-12-03T23:11:59.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Allan Osborne. You probably confused ESP with EBD ! That are two different systems and andrewb asked about EBD. EBD was developed to replace mechanical brake force regulagor. This is critical piece of every ABS system.&#xA;And ESP that you are talking about is additional system that prevents a car from drifting. And as long as either front or rear wheels do not start to slide this system does nothing and I don't see any reason it would help while breaking through a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4082" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T23:11:59.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7822" CreationDate="2013-12-04T04:59:27.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up doing a fair bit of thinking and research on this, so I figure I may as well write up what I found. Thanks all those who responded, particularly BobCross. In the end though, I wanted an answer that went beyond calling a car a mystery box on balloons - I asked this question because I actually want to understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intro - Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the situation of a car that has sufficient braking power to lock the wheels and ignoring aero, tires are the final determinate of stopping power. Having said that, there's a lot of factors that affect how well those tires grip the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight of a Car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stopping power of a car is friction. With proper ABS, the wheels are rolling in contact with the road, so we're primarily talking about static friction. Some slip occurs because of the softness of tires, but it's pretty close to static.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic physics tells us that friction is equal to the normal force times the coefficient of friction, i.e:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ff = µ * Fn&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;Ff&lt;/code&gt; is the force of friction, &lt;code&gt;µ&lt;/code&gt; is the coefficient of friction, and &lt;code&gt;Fn&lt;/code&gt; is the normal force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However tires are a fair bit more complicated. For one, the coefficient of friction decreases as the normal force increases (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyre_load_sensitivity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; for more details). Below is data taken from that article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vertical load   µ&#xA;(lbf)           max&#xA;900             1.10&#xA;1350            1.08&#xA;1800            0.97&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equation from before tells us that stopping distance is inversely proportional to the decelerating force, so with the above data, a doubling of mass results in a -12% decrease in µ, and therefore a +14% increase in stopping distance. Why? This equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;v_1^2 = v_0^2 + 2ad&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. given a start and finish speed, acceleration is inversely proportional to distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So more weight results in a longer stopping distance, but the relationship is only slightly positive, and definitely not linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Increasing weight puts the car at risk of worse brake fade, but that's out of scope of the question&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to braking, suspension is important for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the tires planted on the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the distribution of weight even across the tires. Uneven distributions of weight, such as in the case of nosediving, decreases overall braking ability as above we see that grip doesn't increase linearly with load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stiffer suspension definitely helps with (2), however (1) simply requires an ideal stiffness/rebound setup for the road - whatever keeps the tires best planted. For quality asphalt, a stiff and fast setup will probably be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chassis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the chassis needs to do for braking is act as a rigid body between the suspension, so the suspension can do its work. So it can make a difference, but it's not going to be major unless the chassis really sucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EBD is part of the ABS system, so you can't really analyse good vs bad ABS without considering the gains from EBD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good ABS setup can apply different levels of braking to different wheels, so it's possible for ABS to out-brake a human, simply through having more controls. Though on quality asphalt, varying left-right braking balance is probably not as significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say whether there really are poor ABS systems out there, but it's entirely possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires definitely are the money maker when it comes to braking, if you already have a powerful brakes with good ABS, however there are other factors that play a very significant role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you step outside the scope of a one-off brake ignoring aero, well then...  you have aero to consider as that's huge for high speeds, and that assumption of brakes locking up the tires is no longer a given after many aggressive track laps with a car pushing out several hundred kW. Where's all that power going to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T22:23:14.067" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T22:23:14.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-04T07:55:59.650" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Nissan Altima 2013 model S, not sure what type of disks will play in the factory fitted disk player. As it is not having any logos on it mentioning as MP3 or DVD, not sure which type of disks will be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4084" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T21:00:43.510" Title="I have Nissan Altima 2013 model S, not sure what type of disks will play in the factory fitted disk player" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7876" CreationDate="2013-12-04T11:09:00.350" Score="0" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone already installed a jack for mp3 on a 6006E CD RDS E-O-N radio?&#xA;it's possible with this radio or i need to change radio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4085" LastEditorUserId="4085" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T12:05:43.350" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T15:41:10.357" Title="Ford focus 2011 -- 6006E CD RDS EON" Tags="|ford|audio|focus|jack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-04T13:56:39.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you should fint out if your car has proper idle RPM on cold engine. For example my car and most of the cars (as far as I know) keeps steady 750-800 RPM no matter how cold the engine is. Maybe your car (ECU) was designed that way or maybe something is broken (sensor or idle valve etc.).&#xA;From my observations car warm up much faster while driving gently rather then staying on idle. So i think for the engine it's better to drive off immediatelly (of course very gently until it warms up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4082" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T13:56:39.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2013-12-04T14:12:12.387" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What ? Increased wear in starter and alternator because of weaker battery ? Wow... you should read yourself a few times and see what have you wrote there :)&#xA;There is no way in the world that this could happen. Lower battery power = LOWER stress and lower wear in those components. Period.&#xA;There is eventually tiny chance of problems with electronics while beeing powered by weaker battery but it's actually negligible issue. Summing up there is nothing that could brake because of weak battery and I have never heard of such a case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a test. Take some weak battery and connect a car bulb to it.&#xA;But watch out, less voltage more current. It may explode eventually lol :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4082" LastEditorUserId="4082" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T14:28:14.017" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T14:28:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-04T14:30:43.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RPMs are higher in the cold because engines are pretty inefficient at cold temperatures. That, and the increased viscosity of cold oil mean the engine has to use more energy to run. It does this by increasing the amount of fuel used and increasing the air intake, which makes it idle higher. It's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea is to allow the oil to circulate and build pressure (5 seconds or so after starting), and bring the oil and engine up to a reasonable temperature (a minute or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T14:30:43.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19722" CreationDate="2013-12-04T14:52:30.073" Score="4" ViewCount="2908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a 2004 Buick Rendezvous, which has an aftermarket remote start unit installed (Excalibur RS-450-EDP+). Unfortunately, the previous owner did not hook up the remote entry feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some initial research, it appeared that a separate unit was required to connect between the remote start and the vehicle.  After more research, it appears that maybe a simple resistor is all that's required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omegarep.com/All-PDF-Files/Excalibur/Installation_Sheets/RS-450-EDP+.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation(PDF)&lt;/a&gt;, the remote start unit wiring looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2kPZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2kPZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Remote Start Unit Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;Click for larger view&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/BUICK%20RENDEZVOUS%202002-2005.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;, Lock is a negative trigger through a 470 ohm resistor, and unlock is a straight negative trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pPwO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pPwO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vehicle Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;Click for larger view&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply install a 470 ohm resistor on the Green wire from the remote start unit. Then combine the other end of the resistor, with the Blue wire from the remote start, and the Red/Black wire in the vehicle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xrWn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xrWnm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Proposed Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for larger view&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I have to purchase an additional unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crimestopper.com/Templates/2009_manuals/Misc/cs-870rke_ins_ops.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Installation Instructions (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; seem to agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Single Wire (Dual Voltage): Late model Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Vehicles, some 2000-UP GM Cars&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;  Dual Voltage systems have lock/unlock switches that send varying levels of Positive voltage OR Negative &#xA;  ground current to the SAME wire for both lock and unlock. When the vehicle’s Body Computer Module (BCM) &#xA;  or door lock module senses different voltages on this wire, the system will either lock or unlock. Single wire door lock systems require resistors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lr30H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lr30H.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chart showing resistor size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even provide a diagram similar to the one I've created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urFZg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urFZg.png&quot; alt=&quot;One Wire Resistor Door Locks Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;Click for larger view&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="511" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T16:01:01.457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T16:38:36.323" Title="How do I hook up the remote entry feature of a remote start unit in a 2004 rendezvous?" Tags="|buick|remote-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7873" CreationDate="2013-12-04T15:28:50.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a safe and working example to go by, the smart money is to obtain and use the Excalibur's accessory unit. If the installation merely required a 470 ohm resister to extend its functionallity it is a safe bet the manufacturers would have incorporated it already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T15:28:50.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-04T15:39:25.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is to not beat on the car too hard until the engine has had a chance to get somewhere near normal operating temperature.  Driving gently at first will warm it up fine (and save gas) versus just sitting idle.  If you're scraping snow off, I'd go ahead and run it while I'm doing that, since I can take advantage of the electric defroster to aid the cleaning of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T15:39:25.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7869" CreationDate="2013-12-04T15:41:10.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 6006E is a CD player with an in-unit storage of up to six CD discs. It does not have an AUX input and it will not play MP3. If it essential for you to be able to play MP3 then you will be looking at a differant radio/CD player which is MP3 compatable. An alternative would be to use a gadget along the lines of an iPod FM transmitter. You could then tune your radio into the FM transmitter, which you can load with your MP3 data/music and play the content through your cars system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T15:41:10.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7868" CreationDate="2013-12-04T16:04:24.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drivers handbook for your car will allow you to correctly identify what radio installation you have. It will also outline its features, what discs you can use and how. The screen on the installation is for displaying information of the radios settings, your preferances and service information, and on some sets GPS. If fitted, it will also display the images from your parking/rear view camera. It is not a DVD player in the sense that you can drive along the road watching a movie. Check out the vehicles handbook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T16:04:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7864" CreationDate="2013-12-04T16:22:28.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Mercedes-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1974-1984-Repair-Guide/Carbureted-Fuel-System/Carburetors/_/P-0900c152800ae88c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Mercedes-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1974-1984-Repair-Guide/Carbureted-Fuel-System/Carburetors/_/P-0900c152800ae88c&lt;/a&gt; . Because of the age of the vehicle you will be unlikely to find someone to answer your question fully. I have not even seen a Stromberg carb for many years. The link above will bring up a good guide to enable you to check your carb out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T11:35:43.387" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T11:35:43.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-04T16:49:37.957" Score="3" ViewCount="3452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 325I 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to put coolant in my car and I started putting it in the reservoir. But I wasn't sure if that is where i put it so I stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it hurt if I put a little in the reservoir and if the needle in the radiator is already top-off should I wait till it need some? A friend of mine did some work to the car and he said the water was really low. So for a temporary fix he put water. But told me that I needed coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4087" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:25:00.157" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:25:00.157" Title="Where to add coolant in a 2003 BMW 325i?" Tags="|coolant|325i|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2013-12-04T17:17:46.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is repair any cooling system leak that you have. (Only on a cold engine). The filler cap is on an expansion tank, which is on the right hand side of the radiator as you look at it from the front of the car. You add a mixture of antifreeze and water, at a 50-50 mix, into the tank until the float in the tank rises to the top. Replace the filler cap firmly. Run the engine until it is warm. Next to the filler cap is a cross headed plastic screw. Loosen this screw slowly until you hear air escaping. Do not unscrew this screw fully out. After the air has all escaped, coolant will start to come out of the screw. Tighten the screw back up. The cooling system is now full. A final check would be a road test to make sure the temperature gauge, heater, and cooling fans are all working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T17:17:46.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2013-12-04T17:46:55.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your friend added a significant amount of water to the system it has diluted the mixture of coolant to water.   Instead of just adding coolant you need to drain the system and replace it with the correct ratio of water/coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Allan hinted at, the only way the coolant would be low to begin with is a leak somewhere.  Unless that is what you friend was repairing you still have a long term problem that will need to be addressed before it causes your engine to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T17:46:55.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7884" CreationDate="2013-12-04T19:54:26.083" Score="2" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1980 Jeep CJ-7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.2 Liter (258) AMC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to take my 1980 CJ-7 on a 1,200-mile road trip towing a small U-Haul trailer. The Jeep is in good running shape, but aside from the radiator most of the parts under the hood are original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have recommendations on components to have checked (and possibly replaced) before such a long trip in an older vehicle? I'm planning on changing belts, hoses and oil and installing a new water pump, but any additional tips would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2879" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:03:37.550" Title="Preventive maintenance for a long-distance tow" Tags="|maintenance|jeep|old-cars|towing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7883" CreationDate="2013-12-04T20:47:30.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Safety First&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of your tires and brakes before the trip. They will be working overtime pulling a trailer. Check brake pads and rotors and/or shoes and drums, and consider a brake fluid flush, which should be done every couple of years regardless. Check tire pressure regularly during the trip. Also check the wiring for the trailer lights to make sure all is in working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Everything Else&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got a good list going, but you haven't mentioned the automatic transmission. You might consider a transmission fluid flush. You're changing the water pump, so that's a good opportunity to do a coolant flush as well. Make sure to refill with coolant in the proper coolant/water ratio, and check the coolant level periodically for a while as sometimes it takes a while to work the last few air bubbles out of the coolant system after the system has been drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T17:25:00.250" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T17:25:00.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-04T23:27:32.290" Score="2" ViewCount="4441" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Ford Focus ZX3 SES (65k miles ) has a vibration at all engine speeds.  Other research has led to a high probability that this is from worn out motor mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read after market replacements will typically wear out again in a few months and that I should get them from Ford.  True?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read that all three should be changed at the same time, or the others will go bad very quickly after one is changed.  True?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched some videos about changing them, and it looks to be pretty straight forward.  However, they all use an impact wrench in the videos.  Do I need one, or could this be done with regular hand tools?  Do I need a torque wrench also?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4034" LastEditorUserId="4034" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T00:58:45.840" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T22:32:27.283" Title="Changing Motor Mounts" Tags="|engine|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7899" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:05:47.313" Score="3" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automatic transmission uses a torque converter and planetary gears, while manual transmission uses a clutch and a gear box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In an automatic transmission, the computer and hydraulics decide when and how to change gears. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is the connection between the two. Why, for example, doesn't manual transmission use a torque converter or planetary gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4092" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T14:09:22.130" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T14:09:22.130" Title="Automatic &amp; manual transmission" Tags="|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T01:50:24.447" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to drive on a very poorly paved street a few weeks ago with my car, and it was so poorly paved that I felt I was offroading, due to the deep potholes, at one point, my car's underbody kinda hit the ground, and after that whenever I drive I feel that my transmission is kinda slow. Could there be effects from that hit that could affect my transmission? I drive a 95 corolla automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T15:22:56.437" Title="Can scraping the transmission bad" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7449" CreationDate="2013-12-05T03:51:18.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KrVaj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you see here is what remains of my starter. I think it's safe to say that I need a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3558" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:51:18.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T04:31:59.460" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Non-supercharge Pontiac Bonneville. When I am traveling at a speed at which produces 2000 ± 500 RPMs the engine shakes. An almost sputtering/slippage but remarkably different at the same time they just serve as a good verbal illustration. Also, occasionally when having to accelerate quickly to get on the highway through short ramps (40 - 75 in 125 feet) it will completely loose performance, then it will come back. I'm a college student on a budget who rides a motorcycle 96% of the year and can't afford to throw parts at it until it works, please tell me why you suspect the trouble and how to test it first I have a multimeter but have only had the opportunity of learning to use it for continuity testing. If you tell me how to set the multi meter to test it then I'll gladly learn new skills. And if someone's answer is further down the troubleshooting g tree let me know the order of importance. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4093" LastEditorUserId="4093" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T05:12:03.530" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T22:37:29.153" Title="Pontiac Bonneville shakes" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T08:23:14.297" Score="7" ViewCount="8571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my BMW, just bought it, previous owner hasn't been facing such problems. When the engine is cold for e.g.: after night. Outside temperature is about -4 to +1 degree, engine won't start, it just turns over and over, but is not firing up. Battery is good, even tried to connect the wires from the other car to that one to under the hood being + and -. In the BMW center they've done all the diagnostics, checked everything related to this problem. All seems to be OK, but obviously not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Computer is showing &quot;Fuel pump fault&quot;, but in the BMW center they told me that fuel pump is good and working as it should be. As well is glow plugs. When the engine is warm, it starts without any problems. It just happens when it's cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really out of options here, please advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also forgot to mention. When I start the ignition, all yellow lights goes off after a few seconds, but the one, engine light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vrr8A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should be left lighting, but it doesn't appear at all at that point when I am not able to start a car, when the engine is just turning over and over. Once it appears engine starts without any problems and the light goes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="2031" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T14:01:15.687" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T07:03:06.333" Title="BMW 530xd e60 2008 diesel engine turns but won't start" Tags="|engine|starting|bmw|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7886" CreationDate="2013-12-05T08:41:24.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The longevity of the aftermarket mounts will depend on their quality. You will get what you pay for. My suggestion is get the OEM ones from Ford unless you want to get polyurethane inserts (depends if you are enhancing performance for track use or not - I am assuming not)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind doing the job again in a while then just change the damaged one and wait and see if the others deteriorate. If they are close to needing replacement then now is a good time to change them, but otherwise leave them. I changed a single mount in my Honda and haven't had an issue with the others, granted it hasn't been long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will need an impact wrench. A torque wrench will be needed to get them torqued to the manufacturers specifications. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4096" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T08:41:24.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7888" CreationDate="2013-12-05T12:08:35.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you have gears on any vehicle is that the gears are used to vary the torque applied to the driving wheels. To overcome its inertia a stationary vehicle requires a greater amount of torque to make it move then the torque required to keep the same vehicle in a state of motion. Extra gears allow the engine to power the vehicle at a lower engine speeds for the higher vehicle speeds. Lower engine speed means greater fuel economy. The clutch or torque converter allows you to have a 'neutral' gear so you do not have to stop the engine to bring the vehicle to rest, or change a gear. The decision to change gear on a manual is made by the driver, up or down, to maintain speed for differant engine loads, using the clutch. Autos have a torque converter which at engine idle speeds will not drive the transmission, as it is an hydraulic 'clutch'. On an auto, gear changing is the primary concern of line and governor positions. Line pressure from the throttle position, governor pressure form vehicle speed. Higher or lower pressures control the movement of spool valves, which engage or disengage clutches and brake bands. (Later auto vehicles have micro processors and solonoids to activate the spool valves.) The combination of clutch and brake bands changes the gearbox output speeds, and also direction for reverse. Autos generally use epicyclic geartrains which have the advantage of compact space when put together with their control components. Not the end of the story though. In Europe there is an increasing popularity for ManuMatics. These are manual gearboxes with electronic controls to change the gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T12:08:35.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7889" CreationDate="2013-12-05T15:22:56.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for any signs of the impact from underneath the vehicle. If the trans sump has been damaged then the chances are the trans internals may have also been damaged. For instance the oil pickup pipe may be partially displaced. Check also for damage to any linkages or hoses being misplaced on the outside of the trans. Have a look under the entire vehicle if possible. Damage could have been done to items like drive shafts being bent, brake cable or linkages being damaged and causing binding of the brakes. If you &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; feel that there is a differance following the incident on the rough roads and you are unable to give your vehicle a full under body inspection, then you should put your vehicle into your favourite repair shop for an inspection. You may have trouble brewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T15:22:56.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2013-12-05T15:33:21.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your symptoms point to a transmission fault, most probably the stator assembly in the torque convertor. A prelimanary check would be the trans oil level, as per your drivers handbook. If this makes no improvement you will need a check on your trans at a repair shop. Check to see if they can do a check and report, and give you a quote, before committing to any expenditure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T15:33:21.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7906" CreationDate="2013-12-05T15:52:00.190" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure of a better title, but Ill try to explain what I am experiencing as best I can. &#xA;I've driven a few different automatic transmission cars with a manual mode.&#xA;Normally when down shifting (to slow down) it appears to automatically bring the engine rpms up to match the speed and create a nice smooth downshift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that when I downshift in this car specifically (most apparent from 3rd -&gt; 2nd gear) that this does not happen and I experience a &quot;jerking&quot; motion as the car rapidly decelerates as the engine rpms match the speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I press the accelerator even just a little bit, it seems to smooth this experience out and eliminate the &quot;jerk&quot; forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common issue? or is there something I should be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4098" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T21:38:39.153" Title="2001 Acura CL hard downshifts" Tags="|honda|transmission|automatic-transmission|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7888" CreationDate="2013-12-05T15:53:09.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friction clutch and a gearbox makes a very efficient transmission (i.e. very little power is &quot;lost&quot; in the transmission). This system is relatively simple for a driver to control manually using a clutch pedal and a shift lever. A torque converter by comparison creates more power loss. This fact, along with the simplicity and robust nature of the design, are reasons that a manual transmission uses this arrangement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why then do automatic transmissions use torque converters and planetary gears if they're less efficient? They're a cheap-to-produce and simple means of achieving automatic shifting, and the shift action they produce can be very smooth (i.e. no &quot;lurching&quot; during gear changes). They typically operate on a hydraulic control system that selects gears based on vehicle speed and accelerator pedal (or throttle) position. Howstuffworks.com has a great, in-depth discussion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission12.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;how this control system works&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, this arrangement was used because at the time it was developed, it was the cheapest and simplest way to acheive automatic shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With advances in technology, it has become possible to create an &quot;automatic&quot; transmission that uses a friction clutch (or commonly more than one friction clutch) and a &quot;conventional&quot; gearbox (e.g. BMW's SMG and M DCT, VW/AUDI's DSG, Porsche's PDK). These are often referred to as &quot;manu-matic&quot; gearboxes or &quot;dual clutch transmissions&quot;. These combine the efficiency of a manual transmission with the convenience of an automatic, but the control systems and hardware required are far more complex than a &quot;conventional&quot; torque converter automatic, so these transmissions have not yet largely replaced &quot;conventional&quot; automatics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T16:01:08.803" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T16:01:08.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T19:22:55.523" Score="4" ViewCount="35980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought two new front tires for my Audi A8 with Quattro all-wheel drive and was told I should replace the back tires as well. I can't afford those tires for a week or so. How long can I drive the car with old tires on the rear before it starts to ruin my differential?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4101" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T04:42:01.330" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T23:32:56.100" Title="Damage to Audi differential with new front tires and old rear tires" Tags="|tires|audi|awd|differential|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2013-12-05T19:33:14.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4814/is-it-ok-to-replace-only-2-tires-on-an-awd-car&quot;&gt;Is it OK to replace only 2 tires on an AWD car?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you call different Audi dealers you're likely to get differing answers regarding how much tread depth difference is OK for the all-wheel-drive system. Nonetheless, I would advocate calling to get specific recommendations for your vehicle, as some all-wheel drive systems are more sensitive to differences in tire size than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add, however that if you choose to stick with only two new tires, and if the tires you're not replacing have significantly less tread, the current &quot;safety-minded&quot; recommendation is often to put the new tires on the rear (not the front, as you have indicated). The thinking is that if you have new tires on the front and old tires at the rear that the car may be inclined to oversteer (i.e. go into a spin, &quot;hang the tail out&quot;), which is potentially more dangerous than if you had less grip at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T19:33:14.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T20:26:00.300" Score="1" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiancé has a 2007 Hyundai Elantra that does this crazy volume adjustment when driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it's trying to compensate for road/engine noise, but it's just doing it all wrong. It gets quieter when things get louder, and louder when things get quieter. It's complete nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to just disable it outright? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2081" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T14:57:35.140" Title="Hyundai Elantra 2007 - Disable automatic volume leveling?" Tags="|hyundai|elantra|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7911" CreationDate="2013-12-05T21:16:45.167" Score="2" ViewCount="7168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand it's hard to answer this question without having a lot of details, but still I would like to figure out one thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I got rear-ended recently. Fortunately the damage is really basic, just a couple of scratches. But still, the body shop estimated it to be a ~$600 and 3 days worth of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly not extremely expensive compared to what people usually associate with a cost of an average imaginary accident, but still quite expensive if you think just about a couple of scratches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking whether it would make more sense just to buy and install a new bumper instead. It's hard to find a genuine bumper price on the web (at least right away, maybe it's easier if you know how to do that properly), so I found a couple of aftermarket ones that were ~$250. I guess a genuine one would be maybe ~$500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what is the point of spending $600 and 3 days on painting if you could buy a $250-500 new bumper and have it installed in less than a day? Or what am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T22:45:14.113" Title="Repaint a bumper vs buying and installing a new one" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7898" CreationDate="2013-12-05T21:38:39.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When driving your vehicle in Drive, all gear shifting is done automatically by its control system. The control system would be set out to engage, up or down, with a soft engagement. When you are selecting manually the system would engage the gear and adjust the engine speed usually abruptly. This applies to a great many autos and is the harshness you discribe. Using the gearbox, auto or manual, as a brake is not a great idea. Try slowing with the brakes and then selecting the lower gear. You should find the harsh down change will greatly disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T21:38:39.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2013-12-05T22:14:48.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your drivers handbook will carry Audi recommendations for your tyre fitment. With an A8 it is to have matching tyres on an axle. Tyre shops will suggest it is a good idea to have a complete set in any event. (All the major chains in the UK pay their staff where the more sales they make, the more money they are paid. One of the reasons why they are held in such disregard.) The adoption of fitting new tyres to the rear came about from the fact that the new tyre has a coating on it to release the tyre from its mould during manufacture. The reasoning was that if you drove 200 miles with new tyres on the rear, not only is the coating removed but the tyre is 'proven to be good'. The front tyres do the real work when it comes to steering, braking and load carrying and should be the best. The big thing about tread depths, when compared front to rear, came about when the Vauxhall Frontera from some years ago was destroying transmissions because of trans windup with tyres differing by about 3mm. It does not happen today. Especially with a VAG vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T22:14:48.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7904" CreationDate="2013-12-05T22:31:08.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking a problem involving one or other of the following. Radio has a setting to set the auto  volume control which needs a reset. The vehicles antenna is faulty or suffering poor continuity in its wiring. The radio set itself has developed a fault. The way forward is for a hands on check from your favourite auto electrician. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T22:31:08.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2013-12-05T22:39:41.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure that your rear bumper does not include any safety features which would make a replacement bumper the only feasible repair. If as you say it is only a 'couple of scratches' you could put a stick-on decal such as 'Support your local Sheriff' to cover the scratches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T22:39:41.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2013-12-05T23:26:08.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't ruin your differential by not replacing a worn tire.&#xA;As long as all the tires are the same size specified in your user's manual and not completely bare, you shouldn't damage any critical mechanical parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should replace worn tires, as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4103" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T23:26:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2013-12-05T23:51:34.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you buy a new bumper, you're almost surely still going to need to paint it. (Normally the ones you buy are just the bare plastic.) That's expensive if you get a professional to do it, and a pain if you do it yourself. If you're trying to save money &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; effort I would just patch any cracks/holes with fiberglass resin (a higher-quality patch alternative available next to the low-quality Bondo in the auto parts store) and then paint just the affected area yourself. That's easier than painting a whole bumper and cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T23:51:34.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-06T02:29:59.693" Score="-2" ViewCount="5571" Body="&lt;p&gt;so after getting my breaks fixed (which was warped) the air conditioner stopped working. In winter it can only provide cold air, and in summer it can only provide hot air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="305" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T14:38:20.390" Title="air conditioner no longer working in 2005 Chevy Impala?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2013-12-06T04:08:23.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you're not running the heater in the summer, seems like your compressor is not kicking on. I would begin by checking the charge in your system, as a low charge would keep your compressor from coming on. You can move on from there, but there is not point in continuing, if there is a leak in your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T04:08:23.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2013-12-06T04:16:09.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go ahead and replace both the valve and the o-ring. Also, you most likely have the R134a, as this has become the standard for automobile Acs for the time being. As far as getting the right parts? Try calling Jeep, and getting some part numbers. When you get down to specific small items like these, I doubt aftermarket parts are available. Once replaced, ensure that the vacuum holds on the laking cap, before wasting money on the refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T04:16:09.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2013-12-06T05:44:22.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very huge subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;İn a simple way; wider tire does not necessarily means better contact, handling or braking. It all depends the weight, adjustment of suspension and tire pressure.&#xA;Wider (from nominal size) the tire tend the brake or accelerate badly. It may just serve for better cornering (if sidewalls are low enough) and easy cooling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider the tire more mass to move for engine and that means bad fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be no considerable increase at the contact area with bigger tire size but just the shape of the contact area tend to change. If tire is too wide the contact area will be elongated to the sides more than front and backwards. Because you will need less pressure with wider tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest to read more on this subject because it is very interesting and also vital for all drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4106" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T05:44:22.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2013-12-06T14:38:20.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your AirCon system has a high pressure side and a low pressure side. The heater assembly will have a shut off valve which operates to prevent hot coolant from the engine reaching the heater radiator. Some vehicles will have an internal flap to divert the air from the blower fan passing through the heater radiator and then heating the air from the AirCon evaporater. A quick check is to watch, &lt;strong&gt;keep hands clear - watch&lt;/strong&gt;, the AirCon compressor. With an assistant in the vehicle and with the engine running, ask the assistant to turn the AirCon on and after a few seconds off again . Repeat this a few times. If the system is working, the clutch assembly on the drive end of the compressor will move in and out and make an operational clicking sound. If the compressor operates, run the engine for about five minutes with the AirCon turned on. Then with the &lt;strong&gt;engine now turned off&lt;/strong&gt;, touch each pipe on the compressor briefly. One pipe, the high pressure metal pipe will now be hot. The other pipe, low pressure pipe will now be cold. This will tell you if you have a gas charge in the system. If the temperatures are present, run the engine again and check how the AirCon is working inside the vehicle. If the heater is blowing out hot air then the control switch, cut off valve or diverter flap are not working and are allowing the heater to heat your AirCon evaporator cold output air. An AirCon system needs to be run occasionally to keep the gas seals oiled and sealing the system. Not running the AirCon system can allow the gas seals to harden and allow the gas to escape. The system may also suffer damage and malfunction. All AirCon repair work will require an AirCon service machine. A service need will mean a visit to your favourite repair shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T14:38:20.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7886" CreationDate="2013-12-06T22:32:27.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to check if your front hydraulic engine mount is broken/worn is to jack up the front of the car....place another small jack with a piece of wood as a cushion under the oil pan/engine and jack the engine up slightly to remove pressure from the engine mount....run the engine....if the vibration is gone/less replace the motor mount....most cases it will be the passenger side motor mount but do a check on the internet to see which mounts wear out 1st....I recently changed the passenger side motor mount with an after market part on my 2007 Ford Focus SE, 4 door sedan (80,000 mi.)....takes about 30 min. and it cleared up my vibration problem....good luck...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T22:32:27.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-06T22:36:56.583" Score="3" ViewCount="2645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 15&quot; Volvo rims: Rim: 6x15 ET43, Bolt pattern: 5x108, Thread Size: M12 x 1.75, Center Bore: 65.1 The 2009 Ford Focus Rim Specs: Rim: 6x15 ET52.5, Bolt pattern: 5x108, Thread Size: M12 x 1.5, Center Bore: 63.3 Will the Volvo Rims fit and what other vehicles, Ford, etc. will they fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T17:27:42.493" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T17:27:42.493" Title="2009 Ford Focus...Will these 15&quot; rims fit?" Tags="|ford|volvo|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2013-12-06T22:45:14.113" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obtain a can of spray paint....match the paint colour from your VIN number/car/model/year and spray/touch up your self.....in time, it will scratched, nicked again.....good luck  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T22:45:14.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7042" CreationDate="2013-12-07T04:21:21.413" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda engines turn a few times before ignition occurs ... Allows oil to flow through cylinders n stuff to prevent damage from dry starts ... Normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4110" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T04:21:21.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7940" CreationDate="2013-12-07T10:20:44.477" Score="19" ViewCount="123352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car companies advertise the power of an engine at different rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car 1: 80 PS at 6000 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car 2: 85 PS at 6500 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the power at different rpm mean?&#xA; Does it mean Car 1 has better power than Car 2 because it's at lower rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does the rpm not affect the power comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T02:01:03.620" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T12:23:02.030" Title="Engine power specification at different rpm?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|power|rpm|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2013-12-07T10:30:20.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to know would be to fit one of the Volvo wheels to the Ford at the front &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; to the rear to check for any obstructions or fouling through the wheels full travel. This will cover the physical fitment of the Volvo wheels. Another important consideration is that the wheel from the Ford would have been selected as part of the specification for the Ford suspension set up. If wheel rim off-set of the Volvo differs from the Ford then this may produce undesirable effects such as increased tyre wear, tyre noise, or over or under steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T10:30:20.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7922" CreationDate="2013-12-07T13:05:39.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deciding factor of an engines output is BMEP. Brake mean effective pressure. The dimensions of the engine components such as crankshaft throw, cylinder bore diameter and stroke will decide the BMEP. Further consideration would be volumetric effciency, ignition timing and the number of cylinders. An engine may be designed for economy, or power, or simply to have dimensions to fit under a bonnet or a transmission assembly. So the output will vary for what the engine was designed to do, small economy vehicle or muscle car.  The most widely accepted measure of an engines output is the kilo Watt. A greater number of kilo Watts does not always mean a better engine, it is design dependant. One horsepower is equal to 0.746 kilo Watts. 1 PS is slightly less then a 1 horsepower. PS is a German measurement which together with the horse power that has fallen out of general use but keeps on appearing. Motor manufactures will always use descriptions of their product which will be the most seductive to their target audience to maximise sales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T13:05:39.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="837" CreationDate="2013-12-07T21:02:46.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did this on a 2007 Accord SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;http://a.co/d/9vKJoZg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adapter&lt;/a&gt; which plugs into a port in the back of the factory stereo.  To access the port, you have to disassemble a small portion of your car's interior.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/4yP3YGCtQ_I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watch this&lt;/a&gt; for instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sound quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound quality is reasonable, but not excellent.  You can hear a subtle but constant background noise when your music is playing at low volumes.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B001EAQTRI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ground loop isolator&lt;/a&gt; reduces that noise but does not eliminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bluetooth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also took it a step further and added this &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B009NLTW60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aux to bluetooth adapter&lt;/a&gt;.  It has a microphone for phone calls and buttons for controlling music playback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire installation took less than 2 hours.  All of the electronics/adapters were just plug-n-play.  Disassembling the dash without damaging/breaking the interior plastics was slightly challenging.  This should work for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007 Accords that &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have the navigation package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4114" LastEditorUserId="4114" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T21:23:00.113" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T21:23:00.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2013-12-08T05:00:07.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They make a head gasket leak detector kit to determine if it's leaking. I would be surprised if you mechanic didn't have one. If he or she doesn't they are not that expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0bJs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/6157/85&quot;&gt;See my answer here for more info.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T05:00:07.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T07:14:44.840" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mercedes-Benz E-200 Estate Model 1995 with a Differential Ratio Number 3.92; Which I couldn't found; So I'm looking for a Differential Gear EQUIVALENT to 3.92 Ratio? For example can I use 3.90 Ratio, My car have chassis Number WDB 1240791F322094 Differential Number 1623247 3.92   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4113" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:57:32.560" Title="Differential Gear Alternative Ratio" Tags="|mercedes-benz|differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T11:07:10.840" Score="5" ViewCount="3012" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BMW 530xd&#xA;E60&#xA;2008-05&#xA;Diesel&#xA;170kw.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump is working as it should be, it has been tested in BMW center. Problem is, when I turn the ignition on, the check engine light doesn't come up for about 4 minutes 30 seconds and in that time I am unable to start the car. (it's only happening in cold whether, when it's about +2 to -5...n), when the engine is warm, this light comes up instantly when I turn the ignition on. I can hear a sound of something working while I am waiting for this light to come up, once it comes up, I can hear the sound more clearly. Once I've start the engine, this light goes off as expected. But the problem is this 4 mins delay after turning the ignition. I've read a lot about this problem and it all leads to the fuel pump relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastEditorUserId="6724" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T16:39:28.267" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T03:25:53.013" Title="BMW 530xd E60 2008 diesel possibly fuel pump problem" Tags="|bmw|fuel-system|relay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T15:32:54.517" Score="3" ViewCount="2903" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Hyundai Tucson is making a squeal/squeak at low speeds. It seems to make the noise at the same rate whether I'm accelerating or pushing the brakes. When I'm stopped it makes no sound, and after hitting highway speeds it stops and doesn't start up until the car is restarted. As the driver, it sounds like it's coming from either the front passenger side or under the passenger floor board. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;here's a video of the sound. try not to be too distracted by the awesome camera work. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghfB2Ah13Z0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghfB2Ah13Z0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it doesn't sound like the other bad wheel bearings sounds i've seen on youtube, but i'm not saying it's not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4115" LastEditorUserId="4115" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T17:05:54.233" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T03:49:38.300" Title="hyundai tucson squeal that stops at highway speed" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2013-12-08T16:11:01.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is check out the assembly with your Mercedes dealer. They may be able to tell you what vehicles your differential assembly was fitted to. If you are not intending to buy new, then a list of vehicles it was fitted to will enable you to carry out a broader search for vehicles from vehicle dismantlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T16:11:01.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7930" CreationDate="2013-12-08T16:32:22.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like a wheel bearing from your description. An easy test for a wheel bearing is too drive the vehicle on a straight clear road at around 20-30mph. Mindful of traffic, turn the steering as much as possible to one side. After turning the steering one way repeat the steering of the vehicle as before the other way. When weaving on the road make a note of the wheel bearing noise. As the weight of the vehicle is transferred to the outside of the vehicle on turning, the wheel bearing if defective, will now sound louder. By weaving and listening to the bearings you should be able to identify a defective bearing. This test applies to both front and rear axles. Only carry out this test when it safe to do so, and it is better still if you have an assistant to monitor the traffic conditions. If this proves inconclusive then your next stop would be an inspection at your favourite repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T16:32:22.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7922" CreationDate="2013-12-09T02:25:17.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the RPM, just what the engine is capable of putting out.  Engine 2 has more power, but together with differences in gearing and everything else, the fact that it does more RPM doesn't mean much.  It could just be that the engine puts out about the same force as car 1 (Torque) but turns slightly faster therefore it has slightly more power.  Power isn't actually how &quot;strong&quot; your engine is, that's torque.  Power is essentially torque multiplied by how fast the engine turns.  But aside from technicals, the RPM at which is produced its max horsepower doesn't matter much.  There are more important things like the shape of the torque curve, etc. that they don't tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RPM does not affect the power comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based purely on what you said, Car 2 would have the engine better no matter what the RPM ratings were.  It could be 85 PS at 3000 rpm and it would still be better (and probably a lot more torque-y!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4117" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T02:25:17.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7935" CreationDate="2013-12-09T04:39:23.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my S70 about a year ago and have babied it since. When I first got it, the passenger door wouldn't lock, so I disabled the door handle on the outside to temp lock it. Now obviously the actuator is fried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on the rest of the car, the locks get &quot;tired&quot;. I can usually unlock the driver with the remote unless it is really hot outside (but always with the key). And SOMETIMES can I unlock the back driver door and rarely the back passenger. When the weather is hot the doors seem less willing to unlock and wont unless I use the key on the driver door and manually pull up the rest. And when I unlock once and lock and try unlocking again, they will get &quot;tired&quot; and not unlock again. Could one actuator failing cause the rest to move sluggish or not at all? The dealer said it could happen. I just want to know if only one needs replacing or if I replace that my issues won't be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T17:20:07.150" Title="Door Lock Actuator Question on 98 Volvo s70" Tags="|volvo|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7934" CreationDate="2013-12-09T05:44:46.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T05:44:46.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7949" CreationDate="2013-12-09T09:57:31.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car: Toyota Camry 1994 LE, 4 cyl, 4 door sedan. Is it possible to install a key less remote access system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T17:01:08.133" Title="Keyless remote access for Camry 1994" Tags="|toyota|camry|remote-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-09T10:36:33.957" Score="2" ViewCount="15274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with regular Twin shock absorbers (Spring and damper). I am planning to change this to  Gas charged shock absorbers. Since I used to ride my friend's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bajajauto.com/pulsar150dtsi_index.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bajaj Pulsar 150&lt;/a&gt;, and it feels more comfortable than riding in my bike. Will it make my back comfortable when I change my regular shocks to a Nitrox (gas charged) shock used in the Pulsar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently have asked a Pulsar dealer regarding the price of a pair of shocks which is close to 1750Rs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your suggestion will be of great help to me for my following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it have any impact on my back if I change it to a pulsar's shock absorber?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I fit the shock absorber in an inverted fashion (like in Royal Enfields).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I be able to modify my existing shock absorber with a reservoir to be fitted in it. Is it feasible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T10:51:49.487" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T13:12:26.767" Title="Replacing regular twin shocks with nitrox for my bike" Tags="|motorcycle|shock-absorber|bajaj|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2013-12-09T13:13:19.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but the amount of effort and money depends on if it has power door locks, and if it's a manual or automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T13:13:19.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2013-12-09T13:27:52.060" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to keep in mind when letting a car warm up.  You're only warming up the engine.  Remember all the other components that stay cold until driven: rear end, shocks, suspension components, tires, etc.  So even if you let a car warm up until the engine is closer to operating temperature, you should still drive easy at first, until all components have been brought up to operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1102" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T13:27:52.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7922" CreationDate="2013-12-09T13:36:28.577" Score="24" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does the power at different rpm mean? Does it mean Car 1 has&#xA;  better power than Car 2 because it is at lower rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or does the rpm not affect the power comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; The rpm of the power peak affects the engine's usability for different applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;peak power&quot; number is just one point on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_band&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;power band&lt;/a&gt; of the engine.  Ideally, you'd like to know the entire curve (and how its affected by ambient air temperature, altitude, humidity, phases of the moon, etc):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yMKNW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;An example of a power curve showing both torque and horsepower.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this figure, we see the horsepower and torque curves for two engines (where torque is solid and horsepower is dotted).  Remember, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque#Relationship_between_torque.2C_power.2C_and_energy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;torque&lt;/a&gt; is the engine working on the axles and, thereby, the wheels and tires.  This is what accelerates the car forward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the torque of the engine at a particular rpm, you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Calculating_power&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;calculate the horsepower&lt;/a&gt; at that rpm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;horsepower = (torque * rpm) / 5252&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Admittedly, the above equation is specific to crazy old-time Imperial units.  Insert appropriate conversion factors if you'd like to get metric units out instead.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very casually, you can imagine horsepower (or &quot;power&quot; if you're being unit agnostic) as being &quot;that which maintains speed in spite of drag.&quot;  We generally expect a high horsepower vehicle to have a higher top speed (provided that it has the gearing to &lt;em&gt;reach&lt;/em&gt; that speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the above equation, you can also see that, in these units, the horsepower and torque curves always cross at 5252 rpms (i.e., the scalar values are equal even though they're totally different units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above helps you understand what the manufacturer is telling you a bit better.  What's missing is &quot;what do you want from a car?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back to the chart, you can see that the blue line has a torque peak at about 2500 rpm and that it doesn't drop off until about 4000 rpm.  This means that, from a stop, the car will feel like it pulls away strongly, right away.  However, as the rpms get much higher, the engine will seem to run out of breath, accelerating much slower at 6000 rpm than it was at 1000 rpm.  Qualitatively, this is what we would expect from a large-ish displacement normally aspirated engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red line has a torque peak at about 5500.  It will feel sluggish from a stop and seem to wake up as the rpms increased.  From 5500 to 7500, the red engine will out-accelerate the solid engine by a significant margin.  This is roughly what we would expect from a smaller engine (and forced injection would only increase this late-rpm peak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question for the customer is: &lt;strong&gt;which do you like better?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Qualitative summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The early torque peak of the solid line is fun from a standing start but you will need to shift early (trading mechanical advantage to get back to the torque peak).  Hopefully, you have enough gears to get you to top speed.  This profile is often preferred in a street car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The later peaks of the dotted line is sluggish from a standing start but becomes progressively more exciting as revs increase.  You won't need to shift as early to stay at peak power, keeping the mechanical advantage for more revs.  This profile is often preferred in a race car.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I've owned low-end, high-end and (high-end + turbo) vehicles and I prefer the last combination.  I haven't been interested in standing starts from a red light for many years.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T17:31:23.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T17:31:23.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7948" CreationDate="2013-12-09T15:01:07.057" Score="6" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;The winter temperatures were very low overnight in the area recently, with a low of -8°F/-22°C. When I went to start my 2007 Toyota Prius that was outside that night, it wouldn't start on its own. I ended up jumping the Auxilary 12v battery sucessfully. I believe the battery is original, so around 7 years old at this time. I figured it was just simply time to replace it after this jump was needed. Then I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyNJm1SFS1E&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube that provided a way to check the battery condition. It suggested going into the diagnostic menu to do a vehicle signal check. I did this and my battery was within all measurements noted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under no load battery should be between 12.4v-12.8v = Success&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under accessory mode battery should be above 12v = Success&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under full powered on car battery should be between 13.6v-14.4v = Success&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Based on these tests, is my battery in good condition and does not need to be replaced?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I replace it anyways just because it did fail to start my car this once? I was surprised to find out that the Prius auxilery battery is made by Toyota OEM and only a single &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B006VFEJJQ&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; manufacturer, and the price is quite high $170-220USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4119" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T17:30:18.250" Title="Do I need to replace a battery that failed once but now seems to be testing successfully?" Tags="|toyota|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2013-12-09T16:13:46.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a 9.5mm difference in offset between the two, and a 1.8mm difference in centre bore - so they will physically fit, but it is not recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in offset means that the wheels will sit further in towards the centre of the car. This could lead to rubbing against the suspension or arches, although you should be able to check this to find out whether or not it will be a problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in centre bore means that the wheel will be less positively located on the hub - the bolts will hold it properly*, but this can increase the stress on the bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*providing you have the right shape bolts, bearing in mind that you can't use the Volvo bolts on the Ford as they have different thread patterns. Bolts can have different tapers, different diameter shoulders and may or may not include a captive washer, which itself can be different sizes... Using the wrong bolts will mean you can't tighten them properly, with the risk of them working loose and the wheels falling off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T16:13:46.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7941" CreationDate="2013-12-09T16:41:08.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very cold temperatures overnight you have described may have exposed a physical problem with the internal construction of your battery. The extreme cold will have caused a contraction internally in the battery causing it to expose a fault if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine when you used the diagnostic test on your vehicle the ambient temperature was greater. This would make the diagnostic test inconclusive because it would not have been carried out under the same conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One test you can have done is a high load discharge test. This will show any internal faults by a high drop off in battery voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aux battery on your vehicle is a straight forward lead acid battery. A battery with the same dimensions, battery post orientation and capacity could be used as a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T16:41:08.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2013-12-09T16:47:18.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an ongoing physical problem with back pain, then it is unlikely you will find any combination of shock absorber to allieviate it when riding your motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the condition is severe should you even be riding a motorcycle in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T04:55:34.983" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T04:55:34.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2013-12-09T16:59:17.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be possible, but as Brian Knoblauuch has pointed out it would not be a viable undertaking. The cost would probably be greater then another vehicle of the same age with&#xA;remote key access on board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T16:59:17.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7934" CreationDate="2013-12-09T17:20:07.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your central locking system can be checked out using a suitable scanner through the vehicles DLC. Components include signal sensor, central locking control module, door switches, together with wiring voltages and earths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also need to check the mechanical condition of linkages for damage or seizure due to ageing or obstruction as well as the locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully a scan might point to particular area to test out or being at fault.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T17:20:07.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7941" CreationDate="2013-12-09T17:30:18.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Auxiliary Battery in your Prius is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VRLA battery&lt;/a&gt;, either Lead Calcium Battery, or AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt). I believe 2007 used the AGM. They are similar to a lead acid (Flooded Cell) but it doesn't have any liquid in it. They are more resistant to vibration and don't off gas when charging which makes them safe to be in the passenger compartment. That's why they cost more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Auxiliary battery isn't used to start the car in the conventional way. It's used to power up the electrical systems and control modules, that control the high voltage battery. The HV battery is used to actually start the gasoline engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test shown in the video you linked to isn't enough to determine the health of the battery. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;I have listed the steps here&lt;/a&gt; for a more comprehensive test. Ultimately most parts store will test you battery for free so I would definitely do that before replacing the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that being said, unless it happened again or it tests bad at the parts store I wouldn't worry with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T17:30:18.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2013-12-09T18:54:01.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has power door locks it's not a big deal. You can use a system like the one below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyFNb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jcwhitney.com/valiant-model-6rt-remote-keyless-entry-system/p2001393.jcwx?filterid=c480d2168y1994g23u0j1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It's currently $35 from JC Whitney&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have factory power locks it gets more complicated. You will need to install door lock actuators, either aftermarket or factory. You could get the actuators, linkages and such from a junk yard, sometimes easier than making the universal ones work. Here is an example of the universal kits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ltsdr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35287_Scosche-DLA1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Available from SonicElectronix.com&lt;/a&gt; for $8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need one for each door and will have to wire them all together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T19:00:29.933" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T19:00:29.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-09T21:25:19.597" Score="2" ViewCount="3136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am changing the oil on a 07 Dodge Ram 1500 with a manual transmission.  First surprise was the filter that required a wrench to take off. Second is the oil drain bolt is skipping a lot, I can't get a ratchet on it. II used a box end 13mm on a 14mm bolt and it stayed pretty tight but couldn't get it off, it just keeps going. Used a hammer on the box end to impact it, still no budge. Last ditch attempt was pliers and they didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway to change the oil without that drain plug? Or how can I take that plug off. I still has some thread on the bolt but not much. It hasn't even budged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T13:00:01.083" Title="Rounded Oil Drain Plug Dodge RAM" Tags="|oil|dodge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2013-12-09T21:53:49.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description it is a bit unclear what the problem with the drain plug bolt is. I'm assuming that the hex head on the bolt has become rounded, and as a result your wrenches and sockets are slipping on the bolt head, preventing you from removing the drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, you can try welding another nut or bolt onto the rounded drain plug, then using a wrench on the newly welded nut to remove the drain plug. As a bonus, often the rapid heating and cooling from the welding operation will break free seized or rusted threads, so less torque may be required to remove the bolt after the welding operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBHrD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a welder, you can remove and replace the entire oil pan (first choice, if you can afford the new oil pan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can drill out the stuck drain plug and use a thread repair kit (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helicoil.in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heli-coil&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threaded bushing&lt;/a&gt;) to install a new drain plug. In this case, you'll make some metal chips in the drilling operation, and you'll want to make sure that you clean all of these chips from the oil pan before adding new oil and starting the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T21:53:49.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2013-12-09T22:55:35.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will absolutely fit, there are a few things you will need to do before running them, one is you are going to need or should use hub-centric rings to make that center bore the same size, otherwise expect vibrations at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you may want to run a spacer, because of the difference in offset with the volvo wheels.  You should be able to source a 10mm spacer for pretty cheap and you may even be able to find a custom fabrication shop specializing in spacers make a hub centric spacer that will adapt the center bore for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you lug nuts are the correct tapper, it will either be conical or spherical, and then use the bolts that are the same thread as your car and meet the correct tapper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats it, many guys run wheels this way, I have been with many different wheels on many different cars at high-speeds on a track environment with no issues.  Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T22:55:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-09T23:40:26.597" Score="5" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6 month old Kawasaki W800 I bought new. Sometimes when I ride gear changes seem stiff and clunky. Other times they seem smooth and normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this? Doesnt seem to matter if the engine is warm or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T10:17:03.877" Title="Motorcycle gear changes alternate between stiff and normal" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|gears|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7958" CreationDate="2013-12-10T01:20:08.637" Score="10" ViewCount="71104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0. I have a Vagcom USB cable and I am trying to diagnose the MAF sensor. I had a friend get some readings from an OBD2 scanner, which indicated that both precat O2 sensors (passenger side and driver side) had negative values. He said that it probably isn't the O2 sensors, since both of them are reading similar readings. He also said it is possibly the MAF sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken these readings from the MAF sensor. It appears that the &quot;grams per second&quot; is not going above 50, even when the engine is revving at 7000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DTVm6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this indicate that the MAF is faulty? Is there anything else I can do to see if this really is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found this PDF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/advertising/DiagnosingA_MAF_TechTip.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/advertising/DiagnosingA_MAF_TechTip.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which indicates that this value should peak at about 160 g/s in a 200 horse power car. However, the altitude could be a factor in calculating this. I am located in Denver Colorado, roughly mile above sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be a massive help,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I wanted to add that the CEL's that came on are P0171 and P0174. I have tried spraying the MAF sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner that I got from Autozone, it didn't seem to make any difference, but I possibly didn't clean it properly? I took the sensor off an sprayed it all over, let it dry, and then popped it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastEditorUserId="4123" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T01:26:02.407" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T00:43:52.590" Title="Mass Air Flow Expected Values" Tags="|exhaust|audi|o2-sensor|maf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7954" CreationDate="2013-12-10T12:46:33.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fault code P0171 descriptor is Bank 1 running lean. The fault code P0174 descriptor is Bank 2 running lean. This means that your engine has too much air &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; not enough fuel for proper ignition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a faulty MAF sensor as it is common to both banks. It can also mean that you have an air leak between the MAF sensor and the throttle body, a faulty intake air sensor, faulty manifold air control system solonoid, an exhaust or inlet manifold leak, a PCV valve or hose leaking air, a faulty fuel pump delivering low pressure, or a partially blocked fuel filter restricting flow of fuel, faulty injectors, secondry air system not shutting off completely and allowing an air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VAG readouts are not the most intuitive and they rely on you having specific information to hand to fully diagnose a fault. I do not have a VAGcom, but do have several other scanners, (VCDS, Autel, and VAG handhelds). If you are able to view the MAF sensor signal voltage on an &lt;strong&gt;OBD2&lt;/strong&gt; scanner, then do so. The voltages are around 0.5V at idle to around 4-4.5V when snapping the throttle open and closed. OBD2 readings are always the actual readings from a component, OEM side readings may be substituted to keep the vehicle running so they can be misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altitude will effect the air density reading from your system. Adjustments are calculated from a BARO imbedded in your vehicles ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T22:13:35.497" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T22:13:35.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2013-12-10T12:53:55.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the motor cycle is 6 months from new I would recommend putting it into the suppliers repair shop under warranty. If you were to attempt any sort of dismantling to effect a repair you will more or less invalidate any warranties for the motor cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms point to either a clutch or gearbox fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T12:53:55.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2013-12-10T13:00:01.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;mac has given a pretty comprehensive coverage of what you can do with your drain plug to remove it. The only thing I would add is to try a plumbers Stilsons on what ever protrusion of the sump plug remains. They grip tighter the more you lever on them to undo anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T13:00:01.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7954" CreationDate="2013-12-10T14:52:10.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 50 g/s max flow reading that you are getting is far lower than what merely altitude can explain. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a47Hc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chart above shows that at about 5,200 ft above sea level, the density of air is 83% of what it is at sea level (0.062 lb/cu.ft vs. .075 lb/cu.ft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to account for the altitude, you should multiply your expected mass flow by 0.83.&#xA;According to the VAG-COM diagnosis guide, which I have no reason to doubt, a 200bhp naturally-aspirated engine should flow about 160g/s of air at full-throttle peak power when at sea level. Therefore, at 5,200 ft above sea level, it should flow 160 g/s * 0.83 = 133 g/s. You're seeing 50 g/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're certianly not metering enough air through the MAF. This could be a MAF failure, or a big leak after the MAF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T14:52:10.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7962" CreationDate="2013-12-10T18:01:00.253" Score="5" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;We replaced our 2011 Subaru Outback with a 2013 Toyota Highlander.  I'm wondering if my old snow tires can be used on the new car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the tires on the new car is:  245/55 R19&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the existing snow tires is:  225/60 R17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TireRack.com says recommends the 17 inch radius snow tires, but just wondering if the 245 vs 225 width will matter, or the 55 vs 60 for tire profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4127" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T08:50:24.810" Title="Old winter tires on new 2013 Toyota Highlander?" Tags="|tires|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2013-12-10T18:10:40.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do your snow tire wheels fit correctly on the new vehicle? The wheel offset might cause issues with the suspension or fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, Tirerack is just recommending something with the original diameter. The change in width and side ratio are not a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, tires do age--especially if they've been sitting for a while and can become &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shoppers/Tires/Tires+Rating/Tire+Aging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;prone to failure&lt;/a&gt;. So you might want to keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T18:10:40.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2013-12-10T19:15:55.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel bolt pattern is different between the 2011 Outback and the 2013 Highlander (5-100 vs. 5-114), so if your old snow tires are mounted on wheels, you cannot use those wheels on the Highlander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the overall diameter of the wheels and tires is considerably larger on the new car (245/55 R19 is approximately 29.6in in diameter, 93in in circumference) than on the old car (225/60 R17 is approximately 27.6in in diameter, 87in in circumference), so even if you mounted your old tires to appropriate 17 inch wheels for the new car, your speedometer and odometer would not read correctly, and your fuel economy would suffer because the engine would be turning faster at a given road speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time for new snow tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T19:04:18.250" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T19:04:18.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-10T20:33:09.953" Score="6" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '07 Honda Civic EX coupe. My high mount brake light only works when its cold outside (i.e. 40s or below) and won't work when its warmer out. The other brake lights work without any problems. I was wondering if someone could explain to me where to look to fix this problem (i.e. is the wiring default in the back panel or with the brake). I am not an expert by any means with wiring or cars. However, the dealer is asking for $389 dollars to replace the LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is anything wrong with the LED though as it clearly still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4120" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T02:53:39.873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T12:54:34.720" Title="Civic High Mount Brake Light works only in the cold" Tags="|honda|civic|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T05:24:53.187" Score="5" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local Honda dealership diagnosed the computer has died and they say the part is no longer available. No way I am going to accept this answer. The car only has 130 K on her. Is this a fairly straight forward installation, if found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4131" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T10:33:48.050" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T19:39:54.530" Title="1991 Honda Civic 4WD wagon needs new computer. Where can I find one to replace?" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T08:57:12.420" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying your very first car  : After buying a used car from a dealer/private owner then drive home , what insurance should I have ? and also when doing a test drive how insurance work ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastEditorUserId="3457" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T11:01:25.757" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T13:40:58.217" Title="car and insurance when buying a used car : For first Car?" Tags="|buying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-12-11T14:59:19.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2013-12-11T09:58:31.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably depends on the country you're in, but usually, if you are financing the car through a financial institution, you'll have to offer to purchase a car then immediately apply for insurance. You'll only be allowed to take possession of the car once you have insurance. This usually takes only a few hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this applies when you buy the car cash. But in some countries, like England, you MUST be insured, no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as test drives go, the dealer is supposed to have insurance that covers any accidents you may get into, but may require you to pay an &quot;excess&quot; amount. However, you're only liable to pay it IF you were told about it beforehand and they can prove that you agreed to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T09:58:31.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2013-12-11T10:41:24.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, you must have at least third party insurance to cover you to drive the car. You have several different possible situations here though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test driving a car from a dealer - in this situation, as Juann says, the dealer should provide the insurance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test driving a car from a private seller - here you are responsible. If you already have a car with a fully comprehensive policy, it may cover you to drive other cars that are not owned by you (check your policy details). If not, you can buy &quot;day insurance&quot; from a number of sites online, for between £10 and £20 (it may have gone up since I last looked...) per day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you have bought the car - At this point, it is yours, so the trick in 2 doesn't apply. Again you can get day insurance, or phone your existing insurer and change your policy over to the new car - some insurers may allow you to add a second car to an existing policy temporarily, but most won't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you have bought the car, if you don't have another car already - This is the easy one. between paying the deposit and collecting the car, take out a new policy...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T10:41:24.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2013-12-11T12:12:53.007" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spare set of winter tyres for your vehicle would be the preferred solution. It all depends on how often you get snow, and how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre life on a vehicle is around six years, and a spare tyre around ten. This sort of criteria is rarely used on most vehicle as the tyres are usually worn out and replaced before it becomes a real consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell the age of a tyre by it's DOT code on the tyre wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in the UK snowing normally only adds up to a couple of days inconvenience when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T12:12:53.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7963" CreationDate="2013-12-11T12:54:34.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been cases on the LED's PCB loosing continuity. With the brake lamp removed and re-connected, with the ignition on and brake pedal pressed, try wiggling the LED's and connections to see if it will light up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes in temperature will cause the lamp assembly to expand and contract ever so slightly and show up as working and not working as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check wire at connector to the lamp. Ignition on 0v, but 12V with brake pedal pressed. If voltage OK then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove rear deck. Remove light assembly from deck.&#xA;Two wires are soldered to its PCB board + and -. Next to + wire there is another solder connection marked +.&#xA;Solder wire + and board + together ,make the two solder blobs as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reconnect the lamp and try it out for correct operation. If it all works OK now, then it is job done. Otherwise the disconnection is deeper in the lamp and is inaccessable. This will mean a new lamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T12:54:34.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7964" CreationDate="2013-12-11T13:22:06.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle had a short production run some time ago. Developments since 1991 on vehicle electronic controls have been immense. For your Honda dealer to say the ECU for your vehicle is unobtainable would be pretty reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have a couple of options though. Your dealer may have a sub-contractor who would be able to repair your ECU, or introduce you to a company that repairs ECU's. Your dealer may be willing to purchase a used ECU 'off the net' and install it for you. These options would keep the costs involved reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final option would be to be contact an after-market supplier of ECU's to supply and fit an alternative ECU installation. The cost of this would most likely be prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T13:22:06.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2013-12-11T13:40:58.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK and the USA, you must have valid insurance to take the car on the road no matter what. No insurance - no driving on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have a car you are insured to drive, and you are the policy holder, your policy may allow you to drive other cars. Any other car you do drive must also have insurance on it. The cover will be &lt;em&gt;pro-rata&lt;/em&gt; between the insurance companies, usually at third party only. This does not apply to named drivers, a named driver cannot drive another vehicle pro-rata.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dealer should have a motor traders policy which will allow customers to test drive vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short term insurance cover is available. It may also be available as an extension from your present insurers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T13:40:58.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T14:20:58.710" Score="2" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heater only works when moving blows cold air when stopped or idling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4134" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T11:54:10.317" Title="2004 x3 BMW heater blows cold air when stopped or idling" Tags="|heater|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7964" CreationDate="2013-12-11T17:15:17.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked in any wrecking yards?  For anything over 20 years old, particularly a mass production vehicle like a civic, I would look for a used part.  The first thing to do is determine what the engine configuration is because you may not need an exact model match to get a part that will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T17:15:17.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7964" CreationDate="2013-12-11T17:47:56.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket, check your local parts store. It looks like A1 Cardone makes one. You will have to check your local parts store. You will also need the OEM number from the original computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zPKFp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardone.com/find-parts/vehicle-parts-listing?make=Honda&amp;amp;model=Civic&amp;amp;year=1991&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A1 Cardone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check local junk yards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's normal for dealers not to carry parts for cars that old, some parts are disconinuied from the manufacture as early as 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T17:47:56.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2013-12-11T18:37:16.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several Possibilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low Coolant Level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially plugged up heater core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially obstructed heater valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weak water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T18:37:16.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2013-12-11T19:25:34.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have the AC button on. The Bottom left center with the snowflake. That switch has to be on for the AC compressor to activate. I have no idea why some manufactures choose to design cars this way. You can have the temp in any position so you can still have heat, you just need the AC switch on for the AC compressor to activate and dehumidify the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T19:25:34.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7964" CreationDate="2013-12-11T19:39:54.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NAPA&lt;/strong&gt; carries reman computers for your vehicle.  They are buying them from A1 Cardone and would most likely be a special order item that might take a couple days to get shipped in.  Looks like there are 5 options split mostly along the lines of &lt;em&gt;Auto. vs Manual&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;California Emissions vs Federal&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T19:39:54.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-12T04:16:51.477" Score="2" ViewCount="4033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just recently my sending unit has broke on my gas gauge and I filled the car with gas and I am wondering if anyone knows aproximately how many km on the odometer can I go with a full tank of gas just city driving and I plan on getting it fixed as soon as I can afford to. Also will my low fuel light still come on when I get low? I am so scared of running out of gas. Thanks in advance for any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4139" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T10:39:10.637" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T22:42:14.863" Title="2002 pontiac grand prix gtp fuel consumption" Tags="|fuel-system|pontiac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7980" CreationDate="2013-12-12T11:42:10.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Pontiac tank is listed at 17.5 gallons. Your Pontiac fuel consumption is given as 26 mpg. Quoted Miles Per Gallon(mpg) are always optimistic. If you assume your mpg is 20mpg, then from a full tank fill-up you will have a range figure of around 350 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Low Level warning light will &lt;strong&gt;come on a correctly working tank unit&lt;/strong&gt;, but this may not be the case on a defective unit. You would be advised against relying on it coming on as an indication of fuel left in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the tank with fuel, zero the trip counter, then monitor the trip counter up to around the 300 to 325 mile mark as a measure of fuel consumption. At around 325 miles on the trip counter, add fuel to the tank and re-zero the trip counter, noting how many gallons you put in to the tank. Number of gallons in times 20mpg will give you a new range figure. By counting the fuel in you need not fill the tank fully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have your tank unit replaced as and when you can, in the mean time carry a clearly marked fuel can of fuel secured in the boot/trunk as back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T11:42:10.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2013-12-12T11:54:10.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A faulty, always open thermostat or a defective radiator temperature sensor would cause the symptoms you describe. When your cooling system sensors send implausible signals to the engine ECU, the ECU turns the fans on to run continuously soon after start-up. The thinking is that an engine running cooler is preferable to an engine being allowed to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T11:54:10.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7980" CreationDate="2013-12-12T12:56:47.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at fuelly, the average MPG for a 2002 is 23.3.  Only one of those vehicles is called out as being in the GTP trim but it keeps up with the average.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/pontiac/grand%20prix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here are the details&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17.5 gallons x 23.3 mpg = 407 mile range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the fuel pump on your GTP looks easier than many vehicles as the tank doesn't need to be dropped: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLFUif-0Wgk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLFUif-0Wgk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T22:42:14.863" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T22:42:14.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7980" CreationDate="2013-12-12T14:55:20.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One easy way to determine this is to reset the odometer at each fill up.  Assuming you fill the tank to the top, you can determine your average mpg by dividing the gallons added by the miles since last fill.  Do this a few times when you would expect to be at 1/2 tank.  Then to be safe, always fill up no later than 1/4 tank according to the known tank size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T14:55:20.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-12T15:14:53.087" Score="-1" ViewCount="3080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the radiator and thermostat completely filled it with coolant and it is over heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4143" LastEditorUserId="4143" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T18:17:27.540" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T18:17:27.540" Title="2007 Chevrolet Impala over Heating" Tags="|chevrolet|heater|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-12-18T21:12:26.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7993" CreationDate="2013-12-12T15:32:00.970" Score="5" ViewCount="2299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Pontiac Grand Am 2004. It's been needing some regular maintenance, but other than that runs mostly fine. When I went out to start it this morning, it started fine. I went to start brushing snow off of it, and then (about 30 seconds after starting), it sputtered and died. I thought it was probably nothing, so I started it again. This time stayed alive for about 15 seconds. And each time I tried to start it afterwards, it would run for less time. Now, it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it would die is it would just lose RPMs, down to 500, until I would kill it. I tried pressing on the throttle after it started to lose RPMs, but nothing happened. However, immediately after starting the car the third time, I pressed on the throttle and it responded fine. A few seconds later though, it started to die and the throttle didn't have any response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got gas two days ago, It had no problems starting yesterday morning, sitting at about a quarter tank. It was especially cold last night, but my car has sat for three days before, through very cold weather, and started fine when I needed it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to think ice in the fuel line, but then why didn't it fail yesterday? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to diagnose this further before having to be towed to a garage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T20:21:25.543" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:22:45.327" Title="Engine repeatedly dies at shorter and shorter intervals this cold morning, finally won't start" Tags="|engine|starting|fuel-system|idle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7985" CreationDate="2013-12-12T16:04:41.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine does not have bleed screws on the radiator cooling system. To fully top up your system, fill the radiator with coolant. Run the engine at about 2500 RPM for a couple of minutes. With a large wet rag, soaked in water, to protect your hands from any steam, slowly but slowly undo the coolant filler cap. Top up again with coolant. Do this several times until it needs no more topping up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One Old Hands trick we use in the motor trade is to remove a component such as the coolant temperature sensor. The choice of component would be: Below the engine thermostat housing but high up on the engine block. As you fill with coolant, air will be pushed out of the system through the hole for the removed component. Once coolant starts to come out of the hole, refit the component. This trick will remove most of the air trapped in the block and get hot water more quickly to the thermostat bulb to make the final bleeding easier and quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T16:04:41.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7986" CreationDate="2013-12-12T16:30:30.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does seem like a fuel system problem. Not having been maintained properly, as you say, would only make any problems worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to have a scan on the system. A scanner off of the net such as Torque Pro, or similar, may point you in the right direction of the fault before, that visit to your favourite repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention you might think you have ice in the fuel lines. Here in the UK, a government directive is requiring fuel refiners to add a percentage of 'bio' to their fuels, especially diesel. This is on-going to reduce emissions. An increasing number of break-downs and non-starts are being blamed on bio clogging fuel filters on vehicles using these fuels, made worse in colder weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T16:30:30.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7986" CreationDate="2013-12-12T16:48:30.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may wish to read up on gasoline ethanol phase separation.  This is an unfortunate scenario where ethanol in your gasoline blend absorbs too much water from the atmosphere and separates into two layers.  The bottom layer contains a water/ethanol mixture which kills the engine, the top layer contains a rich mixture of gasoline and a smaller portion of ethanol.  When temperatures drop, phase separation occurs at a lower water concentration level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that has happened in your car you will want to siphon all of the gas out of the tank and refill with a fresh tank.  You may also want to disconnect fuel line from the fuel pump and flush the line as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this has happened in your case, but it is a known problem with the US ethanol blend requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one source on the subject: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/ethanol.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/ethanol.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T16:48:30.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-12T18:34:09.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T18:34:09.227" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T18:34:09.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-12T18:34:09.227" Score="0" Body="The Hyundai Motor Company is a South Korean multinational automaker headquartered in Seoul, South Korea" OwnerUserId="4144" LastEditorUserId="4144" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T22:48:44.030" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T22:48:44.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7995" CreationDate="2013-12-12T19:15:00.627" Score="1" ViewCount="12067" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Hyundai Verna/Accent heater is not working. The fan works but it's not blowing any hot air, only cold air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas to what might be causing this, if so what parts will need to be replaced/repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4144" LastEditorUserId="3823" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T03:07:29.617" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T06:27:01.517" Title="Car heater not working" Tags="|hyundai|heater|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-10-05T20:43:01.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7986" CreationDate="2013-12-12T20:23:28.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a mechanic and have minimal knowledge with cars, so I had it towed to a garage. The mechanic there said it was a bad fuel pump. It's a rather expensive replacement with parts running about $250, and labor costing about $250 (they have to remove the gas tank and everything)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T20:23:28.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2013-12-12T21:26:46.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the coolant level?  Possibly the thermostat.  Also could be a plugged heater core or even air trapped in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T21:26:46.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7986" CreationDate="2013-12-12T21:32:09.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could either be a bad fuel pump or a bad throttle positioning sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T15:22:45.327" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:22:45.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2013-12-12T21:43:28.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Hyundai has an auto AirCon system. When the AirCon is turned off the switch for the AirCon opens a valve on the heater inlet to allow hot water into the heater. If the switch or the valve fail then the heater does not receive hot water and blows cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You make no mention of overheating or warning lights coming on, so I would assume the cooling system is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AirCon system can be checked fully with a suitable scanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T21:43:28.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2013-12-12T21:43:58.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could also be failure on heater switch mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on hot/cool selector type but if it is mechanical then select should never feel loose when turning from cool to hot or the other way round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If selector is mechanical which means hot/cool valve is operated by some kind of rigid cable or steel rod and it is not uncommon for them to break at cable/rod endpoint joints. Another common symptom could be quiet rattling noise when turning from selector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3464" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T21:43:58.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8005" CreationDate="2013-12-13T00:03:35.683" Score="5" ViewCount="114839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should state first off that I'm not much of a car guy when it comes to the actual mechanics behind them. I just wanted to check if there's anything going wrong with my transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a &lt;strong&gt;03 GMC Envoy&lt;/strong&gt;(Equivalent of a trailblazer) with a &lt;strong&gt;Vortec 4200&lt;/strong&gt; 4.2l Inline 6. I just had my transmission fluid(100% flush) and filter changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press the pedal down about 75%, the tachometer rises quite a bit and suddenly I get a ton of acceleration out of nowhere and the RPMs jump really high,almost like a turbo kicking in. (Shifts at 6k, redline is 6300rpm) &lt;strong&gt;It does not feel like it's shifting.&lt;/strong&gt; I should also mention that my engine is naturally aspirated, and there's no modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be at &lt;strong&gt;3100RPM then it'll suddenly jump to 5500&lt;/strong&gt; in rapid acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's from the electronic fuel injection system or something, but it just seems weird to me. I've never heard of cars doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this natural? If not, what are some problems I should look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3823" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T16:38:03.250" Title="Random RPM jump when accelerating hard" Tags="|transmission|troubleshooting|chevrolet|performance|gmc|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7999" CreationDate="2013-12-13T03:10:00.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the transmission is slipping. Check the fluid level, it that's correct take it back to the shop that just serviced the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T03:10:00.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T06:51:03.380" Score="7" ViewCount="28936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that water behaves strangely once the temperature drops below 4 (celsius) degrees. In a nutshell, its volume starts to expand (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Properties_of_water#Density_of_water_and_ice&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt; for further details) below 4 degrees - when temperature reaches zero it freezes. Again, as far as I know and understand, this anomaly has only to do with the density of the water - ice forms when temperature reaches zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question why in many (all?) cars the temperature display starts to blink (sometimes also give sound warning) when the temperature reaches 4 degrees? Is it just a general warning that it is cold, or does it have to do with some properties of the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4150" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T20:30:46.953" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T22:21:34.597" Title="Why outside temperature displays a warning at 4 degrees?" Tags="|temperature|warning-light|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7999" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:18:51.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Id say something is wrong with the transmission from the fluid flush, it is not the easiest thing to flush transmission fluid, and in doing so with certain transmissions you can actually do more damage than good if not done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it sounds like is its not in the correct gear and shifting at the incorrect points, this would be caused by many things but most likely I would say it needs a trans rebuild of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it worked fine before the flush and now this is a new problem, I would take it back to the shop that did the flush.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I may ask, what was the reason for doing the trans flush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T08:18:51.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2013-12-13T10:23:59.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the temperature is 0 Celsius (32°F), ice is likely to be visible and drivers will be aware. Typically they will be driving carefully, and may even be on winter tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the temperature is falling through 4 degrees (40°F), most road conditions will be fine, but there may be parts of roads (eg in the shade) that are at 0 or below and could be icy. The risk here is that the driver who isn't expecting ice may be driving at a speed which is dangerous when they hit an ice patch. This is the cause of a lot of accidents - the surprise black ice on a shady corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why it is 4 degrees rather than 3 or 5, but the core premise makes a lot of sense. Twice I have been on a long overnight drive (over 8 hours) and making good progress when the ice alarm has alerted me, so I have dropped my speed by a significant fraction &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; reaching a potentially dangerous skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T21:51:10.440" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T21:51:10.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2013-12-13T11:37:27.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Low Temperature Warning is activated because the sensed ambient temperature is low. The sensor will not know whether the ambient temperature is warming up or getting colder. It will not take into account any 'wind chill' factor making any temperature effect lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the LTS is on it means there is a high probability of ice on the roads. Drive carefully and reduce your speed in anticipation of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T11:37:27.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7999" CreationDate="2013-12-13T11:47:27.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your torque convertor has a convertor lock-up clutch. When reaching a nominal speed and engine RPM the convertor comes on and locks the convertor forming a slip free drive. When you use kick-down or near full throttle acceleration, the convertor clutch unlocks. This allows the stator in the convertor to allow torque multiplication and give the vehicle its fullest acceleration. It also allows a difference in rotational speed of the impeller and turbine - convertor slip. This is the RPM increase you see on the rev-counter and is what happens in normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this happens at low speeds, you should allow the repairer you used to check the vehicle, if only to re-assure yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T11:47:27.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8007" CreationDate="2013-12-13T12:43:13.477" Score="6" ViewCount="3233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mitsubishi Lancer (but I don't live in USA, so it's not the same sold in America), and the manual says to inflate tires to 31 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'll be replacing my tires with ones from a different brand/model, which is rated by some costumers to be quieter, softer (less vibration from the road transferred to the car) and with a slightly smaller grip (but since I don't use it to the limits, I think it's ok).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they have some characteristics that are different from the original tire, how much should I inflate? The original recommended pressure (31 psi) applies only to the same tire, or it's a characteristic of the vehicle (and should be used no matter what tire I use) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2107" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T17:44:25.110" Title="How much should I inflate my tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2013-12-13T13:11:41.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;: The recommended pressure is almost always a good general recommendation.  You can make adjustments to suit your specific needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The original recommended pressure (31 psi) applies only to the same&#xA;  tire, or it's a characteristic of the vehicle (and should be used no&#xA;  matter what tire I use) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first step, I'm going to point you at Tire Rack's excellent discussions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire pressures&lt;/a&gt; and a whole host of other technical topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;31 psi is a reasonable starting pressure on your vehicle, regardless of the specific tire that you put on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's quickly consider some of the factors that the air in the tires affects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It acts as a &lt;strong&gt;spring&lt;/strong&gt;.  We don't drive on solid rubber tires for a reason: these are much more comfortable.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It defines the tire's &lt;strong&gt;shape&lt;/strong&gt;.  More air =&gt; taller tire with a smaller contact patch.  Less air =&gt; shorter tire with a larger contact patch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It defines the tire's &lt;strong&gt;stiffness&lt;/strong&gt;, especially in terms of the sidewalls.  An underinflated tire is going to roll over its sidewall in a hard turn, wearing out the side and edge.  A well-inflated tire will hold its shape, keeping a more defined contact patch on the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's talk about examples of where we'd potentially like to adjust our tire pressures.  Note: all of the factors below assume that you're tuning by relatively modest amounts (e.g., plus or minus 10%).  So when I say &quot;more air,&quot; I don't mean 100psi, and &quot;less air&quot; is not the same as saying &quot;zero air.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A front engine car is heavier in the front than it is in the rear.  It is common to see a higher tire pressure in the front &lt;em&gt;partially&lt;/em&gt; as a consequence of this increased load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Street cars are generally set up with a bias towards understeer.  Lower tire pressures in the rear will increase grip on the back end, reducing the chance that it will swing around on a casual driver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tire is an undamped spring (i.e., no shock absorber).  A high tire pressure will transmit more of the bumps and jolts of a lower quality road directly to the driver.  &lt;em&gt;This factor increases in importance in proportion to the annoyance of the spouse in the passenger seat.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tire with less air will generally have more grip in all respects.  This means that it will feel less responsive to sudden steering adjustments.  A small drop (e.g., 2 psi) is common to increase winter traction where real snow accumulation is common and persistant (i.e., not where I live).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A severe drop in pressure will cause the sidewalls to bulge out significantly and dramatically increasing the footprint of the tire.  This can be used to get out of a deep hole in the snow.  You can see a practical example of this technique in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Gear%3a_Polar_Special&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top Gear Polar Special&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tire with more air will have a smaller contact patch and stiffer sidewalls, generally leading to increased fuel economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, tuning the tire pressures is the absolute cheapest way to adjust your suspension performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nitpick: yes, I know that it's not the air alone that's acting as a spring.  It's the combination of the air, rubber, belts and the deformation that happens under an impact.  For an introductory discussion, though, we can say &quot;air = spring.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T17:44:25.110" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T17:44:25.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T15:15:42.107" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have replaced hoses and water pump and have had no problem with it getting hot. In the past week it has started to get hot, not overheated. It only happens after driving on highway when pressing the accelerator. Once you stop pressing on the gas pedal, the temperature drops. When you at a complete stop the temp drops down to the midway point on the gauge but when you go again the temp roses again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4151" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T04:05:28.050" Title="1993 Mazda MVP gets hot only when pressing on accelerator" Tags="|fuel-system|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2013-12-13T16:35:05.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tyre pressure given out by the vehicle manufacturer is determined after many thousands of miles of testing, together with the tyre manufacturer, to arrive at optimal tyre performance. It should be used and adhered to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct tyre pressure ensures the full contact area of the tread is maintained with the road. Under pressure will allow the tyre tread to lose 'full' contact with the road. The flexing of the tyre walls bends the centre tread area away from the road. Proof of this is tyres that have both of their edges with tread worn away whilst the centre part of the tyre remains a lot less worn on under inflated tyres. Under inflated tyres will also allow the outer tread area to 'shuffle' excessively and this will reduce road holding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over inflated tyres will wear greater on its central tread area and this can be seen by a worn out centre section with the outer edges of the tread very much less worn. The over inflation will also stiffen the side walls and lessen the required shuffle of the tread causing the tread to scrub, as well as giving a harsher ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct tyre pressures will maintain the correct operation of the tyres giving the best life, performance, and safety for the vehicle. Also the correct pressures will maintain the correct rolling resistence giving best fuel economy, this also will reduce vehicle emissions due to the lesser fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decal on your door jamb or petrol filler cap will give you the correct tyre pressure for your vehicle. Use that pressure. The difference between one premium quality tyre from one manufacturer and another will be minimal and is not a real consideration. An obscure or unknown brand selling cheaply should be avoided, even if they have a type approval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:35:05.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8008" CreationDate="2013-12-13T16:42:44.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a faulty thermostat which is stuck partially open. Also check your coolant level on a cold engine. Use the marks on the expansion tank but do exceed the maximum mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:42:44.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2013-12-13T21:08:02.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The outside air temperature sensor is often located in a part of the vehicle that will receive some warmth from the engine in certain parts of the operating envelope.  Reading as much as 5 degrees high is something it may do. When it's indicating 4 degrees, it warns you because the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; temperature may well be below freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T21:08:02.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8014" CreationDate="2013-12-13T21:53:17.913" Score="3" ViewCount="14054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I just had a small crash that broke a plastic flange from my ac system. I checked around to be sure nothing else is broken and it really look like this is the only broken thing. The compressor has emptied itself since this caused a big leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is : Is there anything i should worry about if I don't repair this before spring (in about 4 month)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told I should at least remove the fuses to stop the compressor from working. Should I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit / this is on a vw passat 1998 1.8t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T01:53:02.883" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T02:25:13.880" Title="ac compressor empty anything to worry?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2013-12-13T22:25:10.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are located it will matter. If in cold weather, the AC will kick on to dehumidify the front windshield (defroster). Without it, your breath will freeze on the inside until the car is warm enough to unthaw it. If cold is not an issue, the break will allow atmosphere into the lines and will cause the death of the drier. If you don't mind putting out more money for the drier as well, there shouldn't be too much of an issue. You won't kill the compressor if you were wondering. My suggestion is to get it fixed if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T22:25:10.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2013-12-13T22:44:39.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to repair it now if you can. Moisture is the enemy of an AC system and the moisture in the air is enough to cause a problem. This can cause corrosion on the inside of the components in the AC system. Causing you problems down the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need a functioning AC system for the defroster to operate effectively. The AC compressor is run to dehumidify the air to help clear the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fuse there is no need to pull it, the AC compressor won't come on if it's low on refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T22:49:52.840" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T22:49:52.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2013-12-14T01:40:08.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that there was a big pocket of air in the system. Sucking it out made everything return back to normal, thankfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to replicate what happened in the first place by driving on some ice and getting the tires to lock up and activate the ABS. I did it a bunch of times and nothing bad happened. So hopefully it is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4059" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T01:40:08.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-14T03:59:48.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inappropriate fuel pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty fuel injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake air leaks may be faulty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuums leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:41:33.803" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:41:33.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-14T03:59:48.207" Score="0" Body="P2195 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:42:27.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:42:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:02:21.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T04:02:21.080" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T04:02:21.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:02:21.080" Score="0" Body="P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Open" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:42:32.933" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:42:32.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:04:18.247" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T04:04:18.247" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T04:04:18.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:04:18.247" Score="0" Body="P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:42:36.107" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:42:36.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:10:44.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A P0031 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short or open in the heater circuit in the sensor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A failed O2 sensor heater &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring/connectors broken/frayed leading to sensor and/or relay &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed PCM/ECM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:42:09.727" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:42:09.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:10:44.903" Score="0" Body="P0031 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:41:38.117" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:41:38.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8025" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:14:51.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potential causes of a P0037 trouble code may include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bank 1,2 oxygen sensor heater element has failed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physical damage to heated oxygen sensor has occurred &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control circuit (or voltage feed, depending on system) is shorted to ground &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PCM Oxygen sensor heater driver has failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:41:18.897" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:41:18.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8026" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:14:51.017" Score="0" Body="P0037 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low B1S2" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T06:41:28.770" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T06:41:28.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2013-12-14T04:26:32.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine wearing happens mostly when the engine is cold or the engine is overheating. &#xA;When the temp is cold pumped engine oil doesn't flow well through block drillings and heads causing the engine components to wear.&#xA;Now in overheating situation the engine oil is thinner and can't protect engine components well, certain parts will melt and would cause a water pump casket break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overheating is a result of over stressing the engine or having not efficient radiator. Warm engine oil provides the best protection for engine components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question having the AC ON while idling will hurt the engine if the engine can't maintain a recommended operating temperature, no cold weather can stop an engine from overheating without a radiator system. So yes, idling with AC will hurt your engine but only if your vehicle doesn't have an efficient radiator system, such as an older model vehicles. Not sure if I can name vehicles models here without being dragged to court. Worth mentioning new car models AC is battery powered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over heating is basically what would cause the engine to wear quicker. If you can avoid that, then doesn't matter if the car is running at highway speed or idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4158" LastEditorUserId="4158" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T20:52:01.190" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T20:52:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8012" CreationDate="2013-12-14T16:02:14.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your AirCon system has a low pressure sensor and also a high pressure sensor. Your compressor has an electric clutch. If the low pressure sensor signals below 40 psi the compressor clutch is isolated and cannot work the compressor. If the high pressure signal is over 400 psi the compressor clutch is again isolated and cannot operate the compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you the compressor has emptied. The clutch compressor will now just be spun freely by its drive belt, &lt;em&gt;no system pressure&lt;/em&gt;, and will not cause any further damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your system you have a component named 'receiver' or 'drier'. This is a filter and a moisture collecting component. Vehicle manufacturers recommend this is changed on service operations, mainly because of the filter collecting debris from the system such as metal 'dust' from system operation. The moisture element is minimal in a closed system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of a compressor change, it becomes &lt;strong&gt;absolutely essential&lt;/strong&gt; to change the receiver/drier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T16:02:14.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-14T17:45:35.897" Score="3" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I get in and turn the key nothing happens. After turning the key a number of times, it will start up as normal. I have had a new battery, and new wiring to the starter motor installed, and also gotten a new key. Still the same thing is happening. My car is a 2006 Kia Sedona diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4159" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T22:42:29.617" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T16:00:43.240" Title="Several attempts at cranking required to start car" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8031" CreationDate="2013-12-14T17:56:46.803" Score="4" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier, and in the winter it becomes very hard to turn the key in the locks in the car door. I've literally ripped the rubber off the key's grip from forcing the key to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I keep the locks on my car from sticking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T23:22:48.667" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T02:23:48.390" Title="Door lock sticks in the winter" Tags="|chevrolet|locks|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2013-12-14T20:59:48.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is de-icer you can use. Here is an example from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hardwarestore.com/lock-de-icer-and-lubricant-281014.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loctite&lt;/a&gt;. Spray it in the lock. It will keep it from sticking as well as ease how much torque it takes to turn the key. If this doesn't help you, there is a mechanical problem with the door linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T20:59:48.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8042" CreationDate="2013-12-14T22:30:39.613" Score="6" ViewCount="280083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 2007 Volvo V50 last week and the &quot;Engine System Service Required&quot; message has appeared. how serious is that message and can only a Volvo garage do the diagnostics? It has done 41000 miles. I have only driven it to work, around 180 miles over the last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warranty from the seller (not a Volvo dealer) says &quot;engine &amp;amp; gearbox breakdown warranty only&quot;, should this issue be covered within this kind of warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is a V50 D5 SE Sport 5door Geartronic (diesel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading with an ODB2 reader shows no fault codes logged, pending or historic. Using the Volvo inbuilt display (good READ and tap rear fog light twice) shows the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DTCS IN VEHICLE&#xA;&#xA;BCM DTS SET&#xA;TCM CHECKING&#xA;ECM DTC SET&#xA;SWM CHECKING&#xA;EPS DTC SET&#xA;CEM DTC SET&#xA;SRS READY&#xA;CCM NOT CHECKED&#xA;DDM CHECKING&#xA;DIM READY&#xA;ICM NOT CHECKED&#xA;PDM DTC SET&#xA;PSM DTC SET&#xA;PAM READY&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume the generic OBD2 device isn't reading the codes, so I'd need to find a mechanic with a VADIS to get the real codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4160" LastEditorUserId="4160" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T09:38:43.853" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:40:58.500" Title="How serious is the Engine System Service Required message on a Volvo V50 2007?" Tags="|cel|volvo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8041" CreationDate="2013-12-14T23:11:05.007" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently acquired a 1999 Toyota Sprinter (Japanese domestic import). I realised that the engine &quot;ping&quot; so someone recommend to use 90 Octane petrol. I went through the manual but it only says &quot;Unleaded Gasoline Only&quot; but does not tell what octane rating to use. Does anyone knows this??? The problem is, sometimes it still ping. What else could be the reason for this?? I intend to visit a mechanic soon but I want to gather as much information before. &#xA;Additional information: it pings more with the &quot;mixed&quot; fuel (E-10) compared to the pure petrol without the ethanol. Is this possible for this type or any type vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4162" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T01:42:44.813" Title="Toyota Sprinter does not specify octane rating" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8034" CreationDate="2013-12-15T02:14:55.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have carbon buildup in your combustion chambers. A thorough intake tract cleaning should take care of it. You can get it done at the shop, or there are treatments you can do at home (ie: Seafoam). What happens is the carbon buildup creates hot spots in the combustion chamber which pre-ignights the air/fuel mixture and causes the ping or knock sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your friend was right to suggest a higher octane fuel. The rule of thumb for a car is to run the lowest octane fuel you can without the pinging unless your car states a specific fuel. Cars that run a higher octane fuel are usually high performance vehicles, like a Corvette, or if it runs a turbo charger, like in the VW and Audis. If your car can handle the lower octane, you will get better fuel mileage from it. Running higher octane than the engine requires is just through in money away unneedlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a huge misconception about Octane in that the higher the Octane rating, the better it will burn, when in actuality it is the opposite. The higher octane will actually make it &lt;em&gt;harder&lt;/em&gt; to burn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T01:42:44.813" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T01:42:44.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-15T03:34:13.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged vacuum hoses to the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum cut valve bypass valve harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum cut valve bypass valve electrical circuit poor connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several technical bulletins covering 2002-2005 Nissan Altima models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T20:30:21.750" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T20:30:21.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-15T03:34:13.803" Score="0" Body="P1490 Nissan - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T20:30:15.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T20:30:15.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-15T04:00:26.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model nomenclature used on BMW vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E36 - 1991-1995&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E46 - 2001-2005 (US)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E46 - 2001-2007 (Europe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T20:30:05.390" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T20:30:05.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-15T04:00:26.560" Score="0" Body="Model nomenclature used on BMW vehicles." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T20:30:18.407" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T20:30:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2013-12-15T07:26:01.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For tire there are two things to be concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical life or thread condition. Depends to the usage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chemical life. Started immediately when tire produced. Since its mix of some other chemicals beside the rubber it becomes harder and harder when the time pass. Because the rubber in the mixture reacting the oxygen in the air. Unless you pack it airtight and keep it maybe very cool and damp free environment the tire will &quot;age&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the installation, depending to the usage and environment one of the &quot;limits&quot; I mentioned above will be reached; either it will wear off due to usage or start to be more &quot;hard&quot; or &quot;less grippy&quot; after around 4 or 5 years (from production date) depending to the production quality of tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you need to buy new tires, I suggest check the production date if it is not older than one year. For me, in extreme cases it could be 3 years max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4106" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T07:26:01.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8034" CreationDate="2013-12-15T12:20:46.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle requires 95 or 97 octane fuel. Any lower rated octane fuel will give you the engine pinking and knocking you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your mechanic gives the vehicle his/her attention, ask that the engines 'knock sensor' is checked for correct operation. Also that the 'engine temperatures' are within specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a simple description, lower octane fuel explodes, high octane fuel burns rapidly&#xA;Higher octane fuel allows greater control over the ignition event, which is what is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles coming to market, Cherokee Jeep relaunch and some VW's, will have 9 speed transmissions. This means at 70 mph the engine will have an rpm of around 1750 rpm. This lower rpm lends itself to a full control of engine power, emissions and engine life.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T12:20:46.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2013-12-15T12:48:29.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Engine System Service Required is a service interval indicator. The &lt;strong&gt;engine check light&lt;/strong&gt; coming on will mean you have a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply re-set the Engine System Service Required by carrying out a simply re-set. Button A is located at the bottom and to the left of your speedo.&#xA;Ensure all doors are closed, Turn the ignition key to position 1(accessories), Press and hold button A, Immediately turn the ignition key to position 2 (ignition), Keep button A depressed until the service message has been re-set - a yellow 'info' light will illuminate, Release button A within 4 seconds - you will hear a beep when the re-set is complete. &lt;strong&gt;This doesn't always work on the first try&lt;/strong&gt;. You may have to repeat the process various times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of an expensive Vadis system, there are many after-market tools available. Look up Torque Pro, or similar, on the net and see what you think of it. Together with your smart phone it is a very low cost way to see fault codes, etc,etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:40:58.500" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:40:58.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2013-12-15T13:24:04.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Door locks becoming hard to operate occurs around the world in very cold weather. The humidity in the air causes icing, metal components contract and 'jam' mechanisms, plastic components go 'hard' and refuse to slide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are sprays available, heated key tools, and other gadgets aimed at helping or avoiding it happening, with varying degrees of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible park the vehicle out of the wind to keep the exposure to the cold to a minimum. Try operating the other locks on the vehicle. One lock may operate whilst another lock will not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T13:24:04.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8029" CreationDate="2013-12-15T13:40:21.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine does not turn over on the first few times of turning the key, then in the light of what you have already had done, the switch on the bottom of your ignition key barrel may be at fault, or you starter motor solonoid sticking. If the engine turns over but does not start, and you have let the glow plug warning light go out, then an ECU relay defect may be your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T13:40:21.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-15T20:02:57.777" Score="3" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving home the other day, my front windshield washer sprayers stopped working. At first, just the passenger side nozzle sprayed, which led me to believe it was just ice on the other one. However, further down the road neither of them worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear washer works like normal. Fluid sprays out normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can hear the pump turn on when I try to use the front sprayers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front drivers side nozzle has absolutely nothing coming out of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front passenger has the smallest dribble coming out when I activate the washers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluid is topped up and was never empty - The bin doesn't seem to be leaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints? I still need to check all of the tubing from the front, but I'm not exactly sure where it goes once it exits the hood. It goes into the fender area, but its hard to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there two washer pumps? One for the rear and one for the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4059" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:50:54.420" Title="Front Windshield Sprayer Problem - 2005 Mazda 3" Tags="|mazda|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3930" CreationDate="2013-12-15T20:09:55.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've checked everything and it all pans out, I would check the brackets at the top of the rear shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are made of a very fragile metal (for some reason..) and I had one shatter last year while going over a bridge. Everything worked fine, but when this happens the shock can float around. When mine broke, it didn't make a noise going over every bump and it actually took a while to spot, even though it was a pretty obvious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long shot, I know, but who knows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4059" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T20:09:55.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-15T20:17:56.283" Score="4" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Volvo s70 with the Manual Climate Control AC Control Unit. Is it possible to simply install an Automatic Climate Control Unit? Or does this require additional work? (Not just drag and drop kind of work?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T22:03:59.187" Title="98 Volvo S70 Manual Climate Control to Automatic" Tags="|ac|volvo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8045" CreationDate="2013-12-15T22:05:45.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two pumps, a front and a rear one. As you have water attempting to come out of the jets and you can hear the pump working the first thing to do is remove the front pump and clean its filter. The filters on screen washer pumps can become clogged with a soapy goo. Once the goo is removed from the filter you should find everything back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T22:05:45.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8050" CreationDate="2013-12-15T22:19:43.677" Score="11" ViewCount="30145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old Volvo GL 440 and this is coming out of the exhaust pipe. No noise, all working fine but this cosmetic thing: does it mean that the exhaust gases are now not well filtered out? Does this mean that the catalysator need to be replaced or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looks like Fiber-glass coming from resonator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOfge.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looks like stuff coming from muffler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBctj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:18:15.863" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T20:24:09.007" Title="Is the catalytic converter broken? An odd rope is coming out of the exhaust pipe" Tags="|exhaust|catalytic-converter|volvo-440|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2013-12-15T22:32:14.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like part of the muffler to me. You should have it replaced it could end up obstructing the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T22:32:14.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8053" CreationDate="2013-12-16T04:48:25.417" Score="1" ViewCount="14587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to put an additive in my forester's cooling system, I'm not sure where to find out this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1655" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T11:47:35.180" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:41:04.230" Title="How much coolant does a 98 Subaru Forester hold?" Tags="|coolant|subaru|forester|capacity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T06:08:38.507" Score="0" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon and today it broke down on the highway. The first thing I noticed (its cold out so I had the heat on low) was that my heat gauge was running high. (note that I just had the radiator and a rad hose and thermostat replaced just a few months ago), so to get it home I turned the heat on high and it dropped back where it was supposed to be nearly instantly. Then after a minute of turning the heat on high it started to make some strange noises so I turned off the heat and the radio to listen to the noise and it had gone away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I turned the heat back on but on low and suddenly there was a loud thudding noise, all of the gauges started going haywire and it died. Not only that just a week ago the power steering ac belt tensioner had gone out and I had noticed some new squeaking in the serpentine belt just within the past few days. I didn't get a chance to look under the hood as it was dark and cold so I was more worried about getting home. Anyways, I also noticed a few days ago that there was oil in my coolant reservoir and I've been going through an awful lot of oil and I had been told by my regular mechanic that I am leaking oil but he couldn't find a source.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this car is pretty much worthless because it needs other work done as well (new crank shaft sensor, leaky transmission, strut mounts, ect.) but I just want some sort of answer to what could be going on. I'm rather broke at the moment so I can't really afford to take it to a mechanic but I'm just curious as to what could be the problem. (other than the cars junk and I got ripped off when I bought just this past February.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you to anyone who can give me some insight of what could be going on.&#xA;sarah&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4165" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T11:29:16.063" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T19:30:29.400" Title="many issues with my 2000 Plymouth Neon" Tags="|neon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8051" CreationDate="2013-12-16T07:49:15.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either the owner's manual or a repair manual will give you this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happen to have an owner's manual for a '98 Forester, and the value given there is 6.2ℓ, or 6.6 U.S. quarts. The factory service manual for a 2000 Forester gives 6.0ℓ, or 6.3 U.S. quarts. It's possible that the owner's manual value includes the coolant in the reservoir (that's the plastic bottle hanging off the back of the radiator with a vinyl tube running into it from just below the radiator cap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the value should be in the vicinity of 6ℓ for any Forester up to '05 or '06 (at least the non-turbos); the engine remained essentially the same over that span, to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T07:49:15.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2013-12-16T10:01:58.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found pretty good video about changing the muffler &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yyhmp9_AtVQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. As Larry said, it is not the catalysator but the part before the catalysator. It looks like something that even an amateur is able to do. In Finland, the cost is about 60EUR for the part so not expensive part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USeTp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.addisonauto.com/English/Services/Mechanical_Shop/Exhaust.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source of the image&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;muffler = &lt;a href=&quot;http://fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pakoputkisto#.C3.84.C3.A4nenvaimentimet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;äänenvaimentimet, takapönttö&lt;/a&gt; (Finnish) = Ljuddämpare (Swedish)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="3252" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T13:45:50.450" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T13:45:50.450" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-12-16T10:01:58.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2013-12-16T11:30:23.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your advise, Allan. Got the car up on the lift, and was greeted with a nice large hole in the exhaust - large enough to fit two fingers into, and one of many. The botched weld job didn't help, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hUCZf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hole in the exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tGd7A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Botch weld&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exhaust was replaced with a stainless steel version (as opposed to mild steel), and a full engine flush was preformed - cleaning the injectors, pistons, fuel line, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emissions are now within limits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lambda: 1.01&#xA;CO: 0.03%&#xA;HC: 39ppm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I have to say, there is a noticeable increase in responsiveness, particularly at higher revs, with the new exhaust and after the flush. I wouldn't say that the car drives totally differently, but it's nice to see the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="3766" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T11:35:32.130" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T11:35:32.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8052" CreationDate="2013-12-16T11:36:18.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've got a leaking headgasket - the oil is leaking into the engine, which is why the machinic couldn't find the source (though I'd except any decent mechanic to spot HG failure symptoms). Does it also tend to smoke a lot? Particularly blue-ish smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've spotted oil in the coolant, have a look for coolant in the oil (a thick mayonnaise-like substance on the dipstick or inside the rocker cover) which would confirm that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T11:36:18.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T11:41:55.487" Score="11" ViewCount="544257" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;BHP = Brake horse power&lt;/code&gt;. It says that it is brake horse power but it is generally relates with high pick up (your bikes reaches top speed in lesser time). So what does this actually mean?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Torque = vertical distance x FsinΘ&lt;/code&gt; , how is that related to bikes and how does it affect  performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4166" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T13:09:17.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T13:09:17.857" Title="What is the meaning of BHP and torque in bikes or cars?" Tags="|performance|torque|horsepower|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2013-12-16T11:52:57.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_horsepower#Brake_horsepower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brake horsepower (bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower before the loss in power caused by the gearbox, alternator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components such as power steering pump, muffled exhaust system, etc. Brake refers to a device which was used to load an engine and hold it at a desired rotational speed. During testing, the output torque and rotational speed were measured to determine the brake horsepower. Horsepower was originally measured and calculated by use of the &quot;indicator&quot; (a James Watt invention of the late 18th century), and later by means of a De Prony brake connected to the engine's output shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, car's HP is rated at SAE net so as to give a truer value of HP available at the crankshaft. SAE net is the HP output of the engine after the alternator, waterpump, power steering, etc., are added to the vehicle. Automotive manufacturers used to use SAE gross, which is BHP equivalent. This gave a misrepresentation of what the owner could expect from the vehicle as far as performance. This all came about during the HP wars of the 60's and 70's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; (realized I didn't answer the second part of your question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Torque, moment or moment of force, is the tendency of a force to rotate an object about an axis, fulcrum, or pivot. Just as a force is a push or a pull, a torque can be thought of as a twist to an object. Mathematically, torque is defined as the cross product of the lever-arm distance and force, which tends to produce rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the automotive world (or bike world in your case), torque is the force which gets your bike moving. The more torque, the quicker the bike can move. You will usually hear two different terms: torque and horsepower. Torque is the twisting force; mechanical horsepower is a number derived from the equation &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HP=(RPM * T) / 5252&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HP = Horsepower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM = Rotations Per Minute (engine speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T = Torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HP is usually considered the force which keeps the vehicle moving and is the rate at which work is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T10:19:12.517" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T10:19:12.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T11:59:08.003" Score="4" ViewCount="14770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem changing gears on my Polo (1997, 1.4 petrol, 3 door, UK).  It was hard to find the gears especially 1st and 2nd, and reverse would grind, and it was worse when the car was warmed up after a few miles.  It had a new clutch cable (it snapped) and that fixed it for a week, and then a new clutch after that which help a little again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's an intermittent problem with changing gear, it's not reliable and I can't tell if when I get to a junction whether I will be able to get into and out of first gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic says it is a problem with the gear linkage.  Originally he thought it was the &quot;connectors on the end of the selector cables&quot; but now he says it's &quot;the linkage between the selector and the linkage to the gearbox&quot; and specifically related to &quot;a 13mm pinch bail&quot; that hold a rod that is part of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He says it is easily repairable but that he can't get the parts.  I've tried to look myself, but I'm not mechanical at al so haven't been very successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make any sort of sense, and if so are there any suggestions as to where to look for parts or instructions to give to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4167" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:35:14.173" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T09:02:44.410" Title="Gear Linkage repairs for VW Polo Mk3 (1997)" Tags="|vw|clutch|manual-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2013-12-16T12:59:47.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What your mechanic is saying makes sense to me. The pinch ball is a wear item which, unfortunately, goes bad over a period of time. It is considered a &quot;sacrificial&quot; part (door pins are another type of sacrificial part). This is so wear is created in a predictable spot in the linkage chain. Instead of replacing the entire linkage, you replace the ball, which is by far a lot cheaper than the alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I was able to find the part in the UK (do not know your location, but assume Europe somewhere) at the following online location: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/2216082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/2216082&lt;/a&gt; ... although there are at least three variations of the 1.4l engine in the 1997 Polo, so this may not be the exact part. The web site seems very comprehensive, though, so it should be able to find the part you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T12:59:47.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6427" CreationDate="2013-12-16T13:32:43.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to your questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why did my car always had 16mpg when I just bought it, when it's&#xA;  supposed to have been 21mpg city and 29mpg highway? I do use AC, but I&#xA;  don't idle. I drove highway, from NC to ON, and never got anywhere&#xA;  close to 29mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always a &quot;settling in&quot; period for a new car - it should tell you in the owners manual for this specific model. Most of the times, it is 1000-3000 miles. This period allows the moving parts to wear down slightly and get into the correct position, allowing for greater speeds and better economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did my mileage really improve recently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. See above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I could do to be compensated for bad mileage&#xA;  from the beginning of owning the car? I might have all the gas&#xA;  receipts; will have to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this is expected. The dealer &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have pointed it out to you, but it's such a common thing that he or she probably forgot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to change the oil at all? Is it at all weird to be getting&#xA;  such great mileage when the original 6L of oil was reduced into 2L,&#xA;  and has now been running for close to 20k miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the oil at intervals specified by your owners manual. Ensure to use the correct grade and volume (the dipstick method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usually a first oil change, at circa 1000 miles (car dependent). This removes the filings and other metal particulates that have been worn down during this breaking in period and is often as black as tar, but still fairly viscous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the oil is often not enough, you will also need to change the filter after the first few oil changes - and maybe do an engine flush. I have a feeling your dealer might not have changed the filter, but this is pure conjecture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will recommend one thing - choose a brand of oil, and stick with it. Mixing oils from different manufacturers is never a good idea, as an engine gets accustomed to a brand of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T13:32:43.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:28:33.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From memory, this requires a trip to a mechanic who can reset the code using an ODBII scanner and specialist software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:28:33.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:50:48.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to look at the rear of your gearbox assembly, you will see a pressed metal 'nut'. This nut is usually coloured green and has VW stamped on it. Take this plate off, no parts will fly out or oil lost, and you will see a lever and piston arrangement. The lever can crack and its retainer let go, causing a partial rotation of the lever. This will be felt as a changing, better then worse-worse then better, feel to changing gear. It is an easy check to carry out and should be considered a basic check with the symptoms you have describe in your question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:50:48.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2013-12-16T15:17:14.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is a turning moment. In an engine this moment is available at it's flywheel. Brake Horse power is the rate at which torque is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;An increase in engine speed implies a decrease in torque.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The faster your engine turns from rest, the greater the torque is applied, and so has greater HP. This applies only up to a point. As engine speed increases the torque will begin to drop off. Its HP output will become less efficient with further speed increases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most road going vehicles torque begins to drop off at around 2000 rpm, but HP at 3500 rpm. These fiqures can be manipulated by engine design according to what service the engine will be put to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:17:14.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8051" CreationDate="2013-12-16T15:41:04.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1998 Subaru 2 litre, and the Subaru 2 litre turbo are listed at 6.4 litres coolant capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should add your additive/antifreeze at a 50/50 solution with water for protection to -39C. Using distilled/de-ionised water will prolong the service life of your coolant. Increasing the mix with a greater percentage of antifreeze will give you less protection against freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:41:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8052" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:08:38.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil in your coolant is significant. There are several places oil can enter the coolant, head gasket as mentioned, but also a cracked head or block, a failing oil cooler, as well as accidental filling. If you have had cooling system work done and an oil contaminated water can was used to fill the cooling system for instance this would have introduced the oil. The &lt;strong&gt;amount of oil&lt;/strong&gt; in the coolant system is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise and thudding from your engine is its coolant boiling internally in the engine. This could be caused by a faulty water pump not circulating the water correctly or your new thermostat may be faulty. The squeaking from the serpentine belt points a finger at a seizing water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle requires checking over by an experianced mechanic before simply writing it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:08:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:20:09.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tailpipe and silencer assembly is what you have pictured. The tailpipe and silencer is at the end of your exhaust system. Because of its position in the system it gets hotter and colder more often, and corrodes more quickly then any other part of the exhaust. Exhausts tend to rust from the inside to the outside first. This is what has happened, and it has released the fibre-glass sound absorbtion material from inside the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to replaced the tailpipe and silencer, labelled resonator in your picture. Not changing the resonator will allow the fibre-glass to shift and block the exhaust. A blocked exhaust will prevent the engine from starting if the blockage becomes great enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:20:09.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8146" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:23:56.400" Score="10" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had quite a morning with my 1986 BMW K75 this weekend. The plan was to ride the bike to a friends house to store it for the winter. The weather was pretty cold on this particular morning, perhaps 15*F (-9*C), and the bike refused to start, the first time I've ever had any starting issues with this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike has a very simple analog computer to control the fuel injection, I think it may have been over-compensating for the low temp. At any rate, the bike flooded out after an extended period of cranking without firing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an attempt to clear the flood, I disconnected the power to the fuel pump so that I could crank the engine without delivering any more fuel. I cranked the engine on and off for perhaps a minute or two, and eventually the engine started to catch a bit, coughing and sputtering, which I took as a signal that I'd cleared out the flooding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then reconnected the fuel pump and cranked again. The bike still didn't want to start, but after about 5 seconds of cranking it let out a horrendously loud backfire. I cranked some more after that, and the bike would stumble periodically, but never truly started. The engine then flooded out again to the point that the engine wouldn't even stumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I repeated the disconnected fuel pump cranking to clear the flood, then connected the fuel pump and cranked again, BLAM! Huge backfire just like the first time. More cranking, more coughing, but no starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat, this time pulling the plugs to further help clear the flooding. Reinstall the plugs, reconnect the fuel pump, BLAM! Huge backfire. Puzzled-looking (scared?) neighbors. More cranking, more coughing, no starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat. BLAM! More cranking....uh oh, the exhaust note sounds different now, almost like I've got  a serious exhaust leak up front somewhere, but maybe only on one cylinder (of three). I go around to the exhaust side of the bike, half expecting to find a huge hole blown out through the headers or out the side of the muffler. Nothing is immediately apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike still refuses to start. I give up, defeated. I plan on returning to the bike on the next unseasonably warm day to try to get the thing running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: what might explain the change in exhaust note after the big backfire? Blown out exhaust header gasket? Hole in a header? Hole in the muffler? Something worse, top-end damage maybe? Any reason I shouldn't simply try to start the bike on the next warm day before doing some further investigation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T17:38:31.737" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T05:00:06.000" Title="Change in exhaust note after extreme backfires--what did I break?" Tags="|motorcycle|bmw|cold-start|backfire|k75|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:26:25.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A back-fire or backfire is an explosion produced either by a running internal combustion engine that occurs in the air intake or exhaust system rather than inside the combustion chamber or unburned fuel or hydrocarbons ignited somewhere in the exhaust system. A visible flame may momentarily shoot out of the exhaust pipe. Either condition causes an objectionable popping noise, together with possible loss of power and forward motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backfiring in internal combustion engines occur outside of the combustion chamber, and are typically the result of an improper air to fuel ratio. An overly lean air-fuel mixture (i.e. an overabundance of air) can lead to a failure to ignite in the combustion chamber, also called a &quot;misfire&quot;. The unburnt fuel then enters the exhaust system, where hot components can cause the fuel to ignite unpredictably. Alternatively, rich air-fuel mixtures (i.e. an overabundance of fuel) can result in incomplete combustion, again causing unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backfires may also occur before the combustion chamber. One possible cause of this is timing. If the timing is too advanced, the spark plug fires before the intake valves close, causing the combustion to propagate into the intake manifold, further igniting the air-fuel mixture there; the resulting explosion then travels out of the carburetor and air filter. On many small marine engines, a screen is placed over the intake of the carburetor as a flame arrestor, to prevent these flames from escaping the intake and potentially igniting fuel or fuel vapors in the enclosed sump or bilge of the boat, causing a fire or explosion. Alternatively, the engine timing may be retarded, in which case the combustion is not completed by the time the exhaust valves open, allowing the combustion to propagate into the exhaust system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T18:26:57.693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T18:26:57.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:26:25.910" Score="0" Body="A back-fire or backfire is an explosion produced either by a running internal combustion engine that occurs in the air intake or exhaust system rather than inside the combustion chamber" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T18:27:00.647" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T18:27:00.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8047" CreationDate="2013-12-16T16:28:01.390" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing from manual to auto control would involve changing a great many parts. The change would be very expensive, and parts availability for your year vehicle would be a nightmare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:28:01.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T19:31:01.270" Score="2" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 1997 ford f150. My husband replaced the thermostat, but it still reads cold and doesn't put out any heat. Any suggestions? We are in Ohio, it's December, and it's freeeezzzing - need heat! Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4169" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T19:49:38.090" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:49:08.513" Title="1997 ford f150 lariat" Tags="|engine|ford|heat|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7562" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:07:41.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Allan on checking the battery cables. Specifically check out the connections at the terminal and the connection from the battery to the starter. If the starter and battery are good the likely culprit is a weak connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4170" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:07:41.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8072" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:18:26.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the cooling system hoses aren't kinked and are routed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the coolant levels are good. If the coolant level isn't proper, there could be an air bubble in the heater core which would prevent/hinder the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it not blowing? If so, check the fuses - specifically the engine compartment fuse box, slot 6 (3rd from the front, left column). That's a 40A fuse that is for the blower motor. If the fuse blown there is a good chance you have some electrical issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4170" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:18:26.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:44:01.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seem auto mufflers split wide open by an exhaust backfire. Back in the mid 70's and early 80's it used to be one of the top reasons for muffler warranty rejection. You may have damaged a single or several of the internal baffles in the mufflers. This may or may not be a problem. If it is now loud enough it to be a considered an nuisance by local law enforcement. Another consideration, if the exhaust has multiple mufflers you may have an exhaust (and power) imbalance. Which may result in vibration problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:44:01.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8077" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:46:06.597" Score="4" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2011 Ram 1500 about 6 months ago. I removed the rubber liner for a small compartment in my center console. When I tried putting it back I realized it would not go down all the way and found a small piece with 2 wires connected to it coming through between the plastic. I am wondering what this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7Jjj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lhfqx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOEYe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3479" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:52:33.387" Title="Wires Coming Out Of Center Console" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8076" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:52:33.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an LED light most likely aftermarket from an old security system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:52:33.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:23:16.717" Score="2" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our car has the check engine light come on with a codes P0401 and P0122.  The car seems to run fine.  What sorts of things should we check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4171" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T11:32:04.100" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T12:38:58.730" Title="P0401 and P0122 on a 2005 Hyundai Sonata" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|p0401|p0122|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8078" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:51:36.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DTC P0122 Throttle postion sensor (TPS) switch A circuit low input&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open or short to ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty TPS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty PCM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DTC P0401 EGR flow insufficient&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty EGR vavle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fauty PCM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:51:36.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai - Throttle postion sensor (TPS) switch A circuit low input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" Score="0" Body="P0122 Throttle postion sensor (TPS) switch A circuit low input" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:54:23.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai - DTC P0401 EGR flow insufficient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" Score="0" Body="DTC P0401 EGR flow insufficient" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:55:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8103" CreationDate="2013-12-17T03:21:51.207" Score="5" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tear in the vinyl driver seat. I'm looking for a purely functional (read: not concerned with aesthetics) way to effectively patch the tear to prevent further tearing and degradation of foam padding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping for a better suggestion than duct tape. I'd rather avoid the inevitable sticky residue that is associated with duct tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNyBQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vinyl Seat Tear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2091" LastEditorUserId="2091" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T03:28:00.477" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T19:45:37.193" Title="Tear in Vinyl Seat of 2003 Ford Ranger" Tags="|ford|seat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T06:37:33.027" Score="3" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently (yesterday) went through coolant flushing and this morning, I have opened the radiator cap and found something weird going on inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/unJhj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/unJhj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it was fully black all of inside but this is what I found this afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4173" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T20:13:20.550" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T20:13:20.550" Title="Inside radiator coming off?" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2013-12-17T11:42:29.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores carry some sort of vinyl repair kit. They consist of a liquid that air dries. In your case you may want to tape the edges leaving some of the tear exposed while the repaired area dries, then move the tape and repeat the process until the entire tear is repaired. You could also make a patch and glue it to the seat with the repair compound. Another option might be to sew it closed and apply the vinyl repair compound over it to seal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T11:42:29.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2013-12-17T11:52:02.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The area of your tear is in a place which will be stressed each every time you get on and off the seat. The apparent size of the tear is too great for plugging and patching, it will always be weak. This damage looks to be a seat cover replacement, either by yourself or an upholstery shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T11:52:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8078" CreationDate="2013-12-17T12:38:58.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0122. The throttle position sensor of your vehicle can be checked with a graphing scanner. Voltages and operation can be watched from the comfort of the drivers seat. The voltages of the terminals can be further checked with a voltmeter on the wiring for correct voltages or shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0410. The EGR has a vacuum operated valve which needs to be checked for holding its vacuum. The EGR operation can be checked with a suitable scanner with bi-directional controls. EGR valves have a deserved reputation for being troublesome because of their handling of the exhaust gases causes clogging and seizing. Staying open and staying closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hyundai have a web site, HMAservice.com, which covers their service routines, TSB's and a whole lot more. At this time it is free to access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to me that your EGR valves operating valve is not opening the EGR valve and the throttle switch is reporting the higher then expected manifold vacuum as a voltage error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T12:38:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8093" CreationDate="2013-12-17T14:51:29.477" Score="7" ViewCount="12590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experiencing loss of electrical power to my Mk5 Golf. It seems to happen mostly when the car hasn't been run for two or three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We changed the battery a few months ago. More recently, there was a loss of power and the car wouldn't start. We'd diagnosed it as the alternator, which was replaced. This worked fine for a week or so, but I'm now at the problem where I'm experiencing loss of electrical power - car sounds uncertain about starting, clock is reset etc. There's still some power, because the radio, lights and clock etc still operate, even if the car doesn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remote locking feature only half works, too.  I can lock remotely, but I can't unlock remotely - I have to use the key. The fob has started to show a red light when the unlock button is pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the electrical power is being lost somewhere else. I'd previously checked for doors not shutting properly or anything else I could think of that might leave a light on, but there was nothing to suggest that was happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how might I start to diagnose how the car is losing electrical power? I'm completely stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T19:54:51.270" Title="How can I diagnose gradual electric power loss in a VW Golf Mk5?" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2013-12-17T15:52:39.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Outback that had the same symptoms.  Taking the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor out and spraying some electronic sensor cleaner on it removed the hesitation.   There are just two screws that hold it in to the intake, so it is a quick operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if long term the MAF needs to be replaced but for now it is holding up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T19:55:44.483" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T19:55:44.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8086" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:26:27.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, check the additive you have used is compatable with your engine. The deposits you have shown could be deposits in your cooling system, disturbed by the flushing of the system, settling back on to the surface you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to know exactly what the deposits are from the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T16:26:27.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:55:32.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fault you describe appears to be a simple matter of 'parasitic drain' on the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery earth terminal, connect a ampmeter between the cable and the battery post. Run the ampmeter to outside of the bonnet and close the bonnet without trapping the ampmeter wires. Make sure all doors are closed, they do not have to be locked. After about 10 minutes, check the amp reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After around ten minutes all modules will go to 'sleep'. The ampmeter reading should now be at about 0.03 amps to 0.5 amp max. The doors must be closed as opening the doors activates the initial operation of the fuel pump, the bonnet being open activates isolation of the windscreen wipers. Both of these mean the vehicle will not go to sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ampmeter shows a high reading, you must now systematically disconnect circuits until the amps drop off. One way is to disconnect one fuse at a time, check the ampmeter. If it has now dropped, that is the circuit that is causing the drain. Rectify as necessary. If the amps do not drop replace the fuse and then disconnect the next fuse. Repeat the procedure to find the drain. If you have none standard accessories, such as amplifiers, the disconnecting routine should start with these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, even if a battery or a replacement alternator are new there is an outside chance that they may be defective and this should be borne in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T16:55:32.700" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8072" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:49:08.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first checks are to check that the cooling system is full of coolant. The next thing to do is scan the AirCon/heater assembly for correct working of the heater flaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On You Tube you can find a three part video on just what it takes to repair the heater flaps on your system. The heater flaps break on a lot of occasions, and when broken will not allow air to pass through the heater radiator to be heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You Tube: &quot;F150 Heater Core part 1&quot;. Also part 2 and part 3. Part 3 will show you the heater flaps and how they break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:49:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T20:37:52.927" Score="6" ViewCount="18284" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an electrical connector under the dash of my 2000 Subaru Forester that is  apparently instrumental in the diagnosis of some OBD-II trouble codes. It's a pair of bladed terminals like any other on the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqk4Um.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, some of the diagnostic procedures in the factory service manual call for testing several evap system valves in turn like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Connect test mode connector. 2) Turn ignition switch to ON. 3) Operate drain valve.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a little scary, actually, the first time I connected it and switched the key on -- the fans spun up every second or so, I could hear relays clicking all over the car, and the MIL started flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure exactly what I should be expecting to happen. Is there an implicit sub-step to item 3 above -- &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Operate&lt;/strong&gt; drain valve&quot; -- that I don't know about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the valve &lt;em&gt;being&lt;/em&gt; operated just by putting the car into test mode? I applied a stethoscope to one of these valves that's easy to get to and it seemed to be clicking open and closed, and passing air. Is that all there is to it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; valves are supposed to be operated in this mode? Drain valve? Shut valve? Purge control valve? Pressure control valve? Literally every electrical component on the car? I can't really say &quot;this valve is dead&quot; without knowing for sure that it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be switching. Is there a list in my FSM somewhere I haven't found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car's a 2.5 liter, SOHC, manual transmission, USDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*For the curious, this &quot;drain valve&quot; is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=42084FA120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PN 42084FA120&lt;/a&gt;, and everywhere &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySsFX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;except my manual&lt;/a&gt; calls it &quot;canister ventilator valve&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T20:43:10.450" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T22:38:41.277" Title="What is supposed to happen when my Subaru's test mode connector is hooked up?" Tags="|subaru|obd-ii|evap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-18T05:33:35.127" Score="4" ViewCount="3427" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family owns a new 2013 Dodge Caravan.  We bought it this summer.  Lately, as the winter cold has set in, each time we start the car in the morning, it makes this god-awful screaming noise.  The mechanics at the dealership said that it's no big deal, that's it's only moisture on the fan belt. We're still nervous though.  A brand-new vehicle, or any vehicle should not be making noises like that.  We live in Canada, and the temperature lately ranges anywhere from -10 Celsius to -30 Celsius.  I've read on several forums that a car screaming on a cold start is due to a loose fan belt.  However, all the questions were from people with older vehicles, and ours is only a few months old. That and the dealership mechanics never said anything about a loose fanbelt- they only mentioned the fan belt being wet. Does anyone have any thoughts?  Any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T12:20:25.663" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T18:44:29.387" Title="Our brand-new 2013 Dodge Caravan makes a terrible screaming noise when we start it in the cold" Tags="|noise|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2013-12-18T07:40:54.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, they didn't lie to you. Which is a good start. I don't know anything about how cars behave in that temperature range, but I do know that that sound is made by a slipping fanbelt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOPOPKMhw9c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video is useful.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T07:40:54.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2013-12-18T09:58:31.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a typical case of the serpentine belt slipping. In the very cold the efficiency of the battery drops off. When you start your vehicle the alternator has to deliver the load on the system. The extra load caused by the cold battery causes the slip. It would be made worse by a moist serpentine belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your dealer if a updated belt is available, more slip resistent, or, a belt made for your geographical region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T09:58:31.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8095" CreationDate="2013-12-18T12:03:42.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The test connectors are common on Subaru vehicles.   They put the car is diagnostic mode and allow for things like the ECU to be reprogrammed.   I actually have a Saabaru and had to connect these to use a Cobb Accessport.   While it was connected I also had fans and other items turning on and off randomly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would need some context for the instructions in the manual as to explain which drain valve, but that should be a separate step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T12:03:42.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2013-12-18T12:26:38.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated, this is most likely a slipping serpentine belt, but there could be other reasons besides moisture on the belt causing this problem. This is especially true if this is happening every day. The problem can also be caused from a weak tensioner pulley (the part which keeps the belt tight). I know this is unlikely, considering it's a new vehicle, but it is also unlikely that the belt should be slipping in the first place. Serpentine belts are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; efficient at what they do. Something else to consider is there may be a small power drain at play, like a light left on inside the vehicle. This would cause an extra load on the alternator upon start-up until it catches up with electrical demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the temperatures you are talking about, any moisture on the belt should be frozen and would fall off as the belt moves upon engine start. Even if it does squeal, this noise should be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; short lived (no more than one to two seconds). (NOTE: So people who do not live in this cold of an environment understand, most cold climate places like this do not use ice-melt as the temperature there is cold enough to freeze this as well. Sand is used to aid in traction. Due to this, any moisture on the belt or anywhere on the vehicle would be frozen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider is you are not obligated to use the dealership where you bought the vehicle (assuming this is the case). If there is another Chrysler/Dodge dealership in the area, take it there and get a second opinion. This should be covered under warranty, so should cost you nothing but your time. It has been my experience new vehicles do not squeal. For it to continually do this upon start-up is abnormal. You will not have moisture on your belt &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; morning you go out to start the vehicle, no matter what the outside temperature. Something is making the belt slip, that's for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T12:26:38.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2013-12-18T19:45:37.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing some searching along these lines today and found something that you may be interested in. It is a transparent vinyl repair tape that has a very high rating on Amazon, and is relatively inexpensive. It's called &lt;strong&gt;NRS Tear-Aid Patch&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach, though not perfect, is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut away the frayed edges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some dark brown upholster's thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a curved sewing needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew it together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to do it, what I would do is remove the seat. Then take off the cover, after learning how with Google searches. Then sew it together from the inside.  In fact I did a similar job on my grandson's Celica seat where it had pulled apart on a seam. The only thing is, looking at your picture, I think you might need two small matching pieces to fill the holes. You may be able to cut this from excess fabric under the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4181" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T19:45:37.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-19T00:12:32.047" Score="2" ViewCount="7775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2005 Mercury Montego that wont turn over. You would think the thing is complete dead, lights don't turn on, power locks don't work, but the battery is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does happen though is a rapid flickering of the anti-theft light along with the clock light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried disconnecting the battery, same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4182" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T00:39:15.107" Title="2005 Mercury Montego securilock appears stuck" Tags="|battery|starting|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8107" CreationDate="2013-12-19T01:54:50.673" Score="7" ViewCount="317167" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;UPDATE&lt;/b&gt;: I bought a scan tool and downloaded the torque app. I don't get any error codes. I decided to drive it again today. I drove about a quarter mile and barely got to 20MPH. I turned around and pushed the gas pedal to the floor and car never made it above 25 MPH in about a quarter mile. The RPMs fluttered a bit, between 2000 RPM and 3200 RPM with the gas pushed down all the way. I parked the car and there were some strange smells. I am not sure how to describe them, at one point almost the burning rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. Last week it started accelerating very slowly when pushing on the gas. Going about 20 MPH I pushed the gas to the floor and almost nothing happened. The RPMs did not go above 3000. The RPMs also got a shaky and moved back a forth a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the highway the car slowly got up to 45 MPH and 3500 RPM, then it was stuck there for about 15 seconds - it would not go any faster and RPMs would not go higher. After those 15 seconds it finally went above 3500 and got up to 60. Once at 60 everything seemed normal, normal RPMs and no weird sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing I tried was in neutral. I pushed the gas down all the way and it went to about 3500 RPM. Keeping the gas pushed the down the same amount, the RPMS slowly fell to about 2500 RPMs before I let off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone give me advice on basic ways to troubleshoot this? I checked the transmission oil after letting my car warm up and it was low (just under the whole OK marker). I don't know if this would cause these symptoms, but was not sure what else to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only check engine light has been on for a long time and must have a bad sensor. I have a low engine coolant light, but I have checked it a few times and even added to it and it seems to be at the correct level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDITS: Automatic transmission. The CEL is for &quot;Low engine coolant&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3479" LastEditorUserId="3479" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T19:07:01.533" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T14:35:21.920" Title="Slow Accleration And Moving RPMs" Tags="|engine|transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2013-12-19T02:12:39.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) security system has locked you out, but I bet you figured that out already ;-) I found some instructions for resetting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5839457_reset-anti_theft-system-mercury-mountaineer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercury Mountaineer&lt;/a&gt;, and would imagine it should work for your Montego as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A symptom you should also be looking for is whether the flashing red light continues to blink at double time no matter how much time elapses between attempts, or after the vehicle sits for a while it goes back to a normal, slower, blink. If it continues to blink fast, this is a larger problem which only the dealership is going to be able to fix. This is due to the need for reprogramming the PATS system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a second key, wait for 15 minutes after trying your normal key, then try it. The regular key might have lost its link with the vehicle, or the transducer in the key may have gone bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that doesn't work, disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes (disconnect and walk away). Reconnect the battery. If the light is still blinking fast, it has not fixed the issue. The instructions said, the only way to fix it at this point is to take it to the dealership to get the PATS reprogrammed. If the blinking has slowed down, try to start it again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T02:12:39.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2013-12-19T02:24:17.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the catalytic converter might be plugged. If it has self destructed, it could be causing a blockage and not allowing your engine to exhaust the gasses as it should, thus not allowing the engine to rev as high as it normally should. You can test it by tapping it with a hammer (not hard) and listening to see if there is a rattling sound. A muffler shop can diagnose this for you, as well as fix it if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T12:40:34.370" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:40:34.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2013-12-19T09:58:02.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine management is in 'limp home mode'. You need an OBD2 scan to check for any fault codes, and recification carried out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant level sensor is not OBD2, it is an info light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T09:58:02.760" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2013-12-19T10:03:01.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a key programming problem. Check for a locksmith in your area who can do the re-programming and scan the PATS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T10:03:01.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2013-12-19T10:32:07.730" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_displacement&quot;&gt;swept volume&lt;/a&gt;&quot; of one cylinder is given by :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pi * r^2 * L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;r = cylinder radius (bore / 2 ) in centimetres&#xA;L = stroke in centimetres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then multiply by the number of cylinders (they will all be the same bore and stroke)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example :&#xA;Bullet 350 bore and stroke given as 70 mm ( 7.0 cm) bore and 90 mm (9.0 cm)  stroke&#xA;So :&#xA;r = (7.0 / 2) 3.5 cm&#xA;L = 9.0 cm&#xA;Then : pi * 3.5 ^2 * 9.0 * 1 (cylinder)&#xA;= 346.3606 cubic centimetres&#xA;Note : the capacity is usually rounded, in this case to 350 cc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4184" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T20:30:32.340" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T20:30:32.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:35:41.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I call BS on 'can't get the parts'. Motor factors have a vast distribution network backed by a very detailed database. You'd have a hard time nominating any part for any model of car that's still on the road in any significant numbers that they don't have (or can't acquire), if you specify the one you want accurately. My father drives for a motor factors and he's adamant that his company can get &lt;b&gt;anything&lt;/b&gt;. It is apparently something of a dark art coercing their database into telling you what you want to know, and the intricacies of this aren't normally exposed to the public; it's back-office use only. Sometimes needs an experienced storesperson to 'speak the magic words' to find the right part. Apparently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect your mechanic either doesn't have a good relationship with local motor factors, or the local motor factors aren't any good, or he doesn't want to do the work because it's labour-intensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:35:41.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:55:10.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching the internet for a day. Had to replaced the alternator on my 2002 escape after it died on the highway. THEN, the battery light kept coming on. Read the first post on this thread.... ITS NOT A BATTERY LIGHT, rather the low coolant light. If its a little box with flame-looking things, it's the low coolant light. hope this helps someone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T14:55:10.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8114" CreationDate="2013-12-19T16:11:45.067" Score="4" ViewCount="30623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Odyssey 2003: I'm replacing a transmission, and a local mechanic will help me to swap it in my garage. I've been told at a local shop, that in order to install remanufactured transmission properly, a computer reprogramming is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct statement? What does a process of &quot;reprogramming&quot; involve, what equipment is necessary and why is it needed in the first place? What are the implications if not done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T06:41:27.480" Title="Do I need computer reprogramming when transmission is replaced?" Tags="|honda|transmission|automatic-transmission|computer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2013-12-19T21:52:05.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Honda model has a history of failing transmission units. At the least, a once all-over check of the electronics would be advisable and be a bit of insurance against any faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Honda OEM/bi-directional compatible scanner would be required to program the transmission. The programming loads an operational 'map' for the system into the transmission control module. Differant maps are used for differant transmissions. When enhancements are found to be needed, bugs, an enhanced map can be uploaded onto the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T21:52:05.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8126" CreationDate="2013-12-19T23:47:21.537" Score="0" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the gas error light (yellow) always on, It turns off some time but it turns on again. I have some cleaning of the air system but it did not work. What could be the problem ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2421" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T21:32:36.817" Title="GOLF 5 GTD gas error led" Tags="|golf|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2013-12-20T00:36:11.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question ... you should NOT need to reprogram your computer (PCM/ECU) when you replace your transmission as long as it's a stock replacement (or stock rebuild). There is no reason I could find which said this, so I am thinking the person who is talking to you about doing this is trying to get you to spend more money ... on some service he's willing to provide and you don't need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T00:36:11.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8047" CreationDate="2013-12-20T06:06:37.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts for these older volvos are actually pretty cheap. And Dealer said ACC to MCC requires a new wire from the Climate Unit and that MCC is actually a better choice. Oh well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3948" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T06:06:37.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2013-12-20T09:46:54.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BHP(Brake Horse Power) is the common rating that we consider while measuring the power of a bike. Technically it is the maximum power produced before it is delivered to the drive train. Torque is the turning effect produced by the engine. Peak Torque is available in lower RPM's. &#xA;The naive categorization is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In lower gears we get more torque. In higher gears torque decreases and power increases. When go uphill we require torque.&#xA;  HP is the other way. &#xA;  But an engine has different sweet points(RPM's). The one where it gains maximum power and the other where it gains maximum torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T09:46:54.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:08:11.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other factors such as stability, rigidity, maneuverability, dampening on which shocks are designed and fitted to a motorcycle. If you require a strict Yes/No answer, I cannot; moreover your current motorcycles make and model is not mentioned. Considering RoyalEnfields shocks replacement you should keep in mind that those shocks are designed to bear and absorb shocks from such a heavy machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:08:11.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2908" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:12:57.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Important thing is please replace/topup engine oil when required. This will holdback many engine problems that are common with usual wear and tear of vehicle over a long period of time. Above servicing this is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:12:57.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:24:39.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a system scan for DTC codes. They will tell you the area of your cars system that requires investigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the net for budget scanning software such as Torque Pro or OBDII Doctor. Other then that you will need to put your vehicle into your favourite repair shop to determine the fault(s). Codes needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:24:39.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:45:19.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.You have not mentioned your vehicle make/model.(please mention it to answer your  question exactly)&#xA;2.The weight of pulsar 150 is approximately 135 kg and if your vehicle is a 100 cc it will be nearly 115 kg. So you will get stiffer suspension feel when you install it.&#xA;3.The damper(shock absorber) mounting points should match with your bike's mounting points and the length of damper also matters here or else you can't fit it.&#xA;4.Inverted and normal are nearly same as they have nearly same ride characteristics.&#xA;5.Adding a reservior to an existing non-reservior damper is a very difficult task and it may spoil the damper fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do mention your bike's model !!! or else your question is solutionless !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:45:19.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2013-12-20T11:12:50.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to add Pulsar shocks to star city dude!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the bolt axis (top mounting point) to bolt axis (bottom mounting point) length of your bike's shocks and Pulsar's, then compare them. If the length is nearly the same, you can use Pulsar shocks on your bike, but remember ride characteristics will change!! You'll feel bumpy rides!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4193" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T04:57:26.150" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T04:57:26.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2013-12-20T18:55:39.477" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is how strong your engine is and Horsepower is a measure of how fast it can use that power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why a Diesel engine with 400Nm of Torque cannot out-accellerate a petrol car with 400Nm of Torque. Horsepower is calculated by multiplying the amount of torque by the RPM of the engine (and dividing by 5,252. But that's not important here). Because a Diesel produces its power at say 2000 RPM, it's BHP figure would be rated at 152BHP, meaning that although it's a very strong engine, it cannot use that power very quickly. The petrol engine makes 400Nm at 6000RPM so the formula gives us 456BHP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both cars can pull a fair amount of weight, but only the petrol engined car can do so quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about bikes or what is considered a &quot;strong and quick&quot; bike engine, but the facts remain the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should probably add that Break Horsepower (BHP) is measured at the flywheel, while Horsepower (HP) is measured at the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:20:09.077" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:20:09.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2013-12-20T21:25:35.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0404 DTC is your EGR valve control circuits are incorrect. Your EGR valve may be staying open or staying closed. The EGR system needs to be checked and rectified. Leaving this repair is not a good idea. The next fault it will cause will be to destroy your DOC, (diesel oxidation catalyst). This will be followed by your DPF, (diesel particulate filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is at the moment your vehicle will not pass it's annual inspection inside the USA or the EU, (or most other places). Driving the vehicle as it is, it will be releasing excessive NOX, CO and HC. Your exhaust system will be running hot. Have it fixed ASAP, and you should get by with just the EGR work. Leave it and you are heading for a very very big repair bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T21:25:35.623" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2013-12-20T21:32:36.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the explanation for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P0404 code&lt;/a&gt;, which is a generic code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have a P0404, then the EGR valve is likely an electrically controlled EGR valve instead of a vacuum controlled EGR valve. Also, the valve will usually have a feedback system built into it that informs the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) what position the valve is in; open, closed, or somewhere in between. The PCM needs to know this to determine whether or not the valve is operating as needed. If the PCM determines that the valve should be operating, but the feedback circuit shows that the valve is not open, this code will set. Or if the PCM determines the valve should be closed but the feedback signal indicates that the valve is open, this code will set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means your EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is probably bad, or the vacuum line (or part which allows actuation which could be electrical) is in bad repair. The usual way to check the EGR is to manually articulate the diaphragm in the EGR valve. Not knowing what year your car is or what kind of engine does not allow me to show you a picture of where the EGR is located on your specific vehicle, but here is one on a different car to see what it looks like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AxqkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;EGR valve picture pulled from Google Images&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side of the EGR is usually open to the atmosphere. If so, you can push on this gently while the engine is running. If the engine bogs a little while you do this, the EGR is usually good. If it doesn't, then it could be bad or there might be carbon blockage preventing it from working correctly. If it is vacuum operated, there should be a small actuator valve located between the EGR and the vacuum source. This could also be bad. If it is electrically operated, there should be a mechanical linkage which you can articulate manually to see if you get the engine bog. If this happens, the small motor which operates it is probably bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the EGR is bad or malfunctioning, you probably will not notice a difference in how the engine runs. As the  name implies, the EGR recirculates exhaust gases. The purpose of this is to actually cool and control combustion as it occurs in the combustion chamber. Without this, the combustion process becomes too hot and can form a gas called Nitrogen Oxide (NO or NO2) and is referred to as NOx. This is a nasty pollutant which forms acid rain and in larger quantities is very bad to human health. It is formed by the nitrogen getting oxidized during the combustion process at temps over 1700 deg F. I am not what anyone would consider a &quot;tree hugger&quot;, but this is one of those gasses which is just nasty not only to the environment but directly to humans as well. The EGR process helps clean up this up, along with the catalytic converter to clean up most of what is left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, this is something which needs to get fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T21:32:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2013-12-20T21:48:19.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something which might help you diagnose the issue better is to do an old school trick on your just replaced distributor cap. This would be to generously spray the inside of the cap and the rotor with WD-40. Many people use this as a lubricant to help with stuck nuts and such. The &lt;strong&gt;WD&lt;/strong&gt; in the name actually means &lt;em&gt;Water Displacement&lt;/em&gt;. By spraying this inside, it will keep water out of the cap and off of the parts. WD-40 is also non-conductive, so will help to eliminate carbon tracking, which can cause the engine to miss on one or more cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am with you on this, though, thinking about you saying the engine will not start. Unlike the older HEI distributor, your distributor does not have the coil located in the cap. If I were a betting man, I would think you have some sort of grounding problem to the coil or the electrical connection to it is lose, corroded, or otherwise not allowing things to work right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T21:48:19.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7388" CreationDate="2013-12-20T22:17:55.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles have what are called Power On Self Diagnostics (POST - well, that's what they call it in the computer world anyway). When you turn the key to the run position (even before starting the vehicle) you will see movement out of all of your gauges in some manner (some bounce the needles, some sweep them all the way over to maximum readings). If the two gauges are moving when you turn the key on, I'd suggest it is in the wiring or quite possibly the sending units which are bad. The sending units are the parts of the system which tells the gauges what the read (some of them tell the PCM, and the PCM tells the gauges). If the gauges move at all when you turn the key to on, you know they are getting power, and therefor are not getting any signal to show a reading. If so, I suggest you tackle one problem at a time. The temp gauge should be much easier, as it is usually a single wire attached to the sender. It should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qoMFY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;water temp sender, picture pulled from Google Images&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most of this will be either inside one of the engine water jackets or has a wire connected to it, so may not be easy to spot at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas level sender is another matter. It, of course, is located inside of the gas tank, which brings with it a whole other bit of trouble having to deal with what is actually in the tank. It would usually involve dropping the gas tank, unscrewing the gas pump unit, detaching the gas lines, and replacing the unit. Not a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF, on the other hand, the gauges are not moving, you definitely have an issue inside of the cluster, or with a ground (as you suggested). You'll have to do further diagnostics to figure this out. You can also check the wires going back to the PCM to see if you have connectivity there (refer to a wiring diagram of your specific vehicle to figure out what is what --- Civic forums or a Google search can find this for you online). Since you are having the same issue with both clusters, it would be my approximation the problem does not lie in the cluster, but in some other part of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T22:17:55.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-20T23:54:43.010" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck turns over for a second , maybe two and then stops cranking.  It will do it over and over. A few days ago my ECM touched a hot battery terminal and that's when it started acting up. Does anyone know if the ECM could be fried?  Or could it be something else?  My batteries are good, I had them checked and had to replace one of them. But now I'm stumped. I feel like it's probably a bad ECM now!?  Any help would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey guys my truck is an 06 silverado 6.6 4x. Thx for the responses so far.   I think it may have been because i put the truck inside the shop at my work but it did start the night after I first posted this. It died on me a few times but started right back up. It ran for a total of about 30-40 min. The next morning I started it and pulled it forward a little then worked on it with the garage door open and it wouldn't start later that day. Hasn't started since. It's been between 0- 30 degrees around here for a month now. I think I may need to add some additives to the fuel. I also got some codes off of it I can post when I get home later, maybe that will help you guys help me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4195" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:09:27.533" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:09:27.533" Title="Truck won't start" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-21T01:24:45.933" Score="3" ViewCount="1256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I go into rough terrain, specifically bumps or speed bumps, there is a thud sound from the front end. Thinking it might be the bushings but I'd prefer not to purchase without confirmation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T07:10:52.747" Title="Why is my 2004 BMW z4 front suspension making noise?" Tags="|suspension|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8130" CreationDate="2013-12-21T10:30:11.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To take the load off of any ECU output your starter system will have a relay to connect the starter solonoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a drivers handbook, check for the position of the starter relay. Substitute the relay before doing anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to an actual relay substitution is jump the terminals 30 and 87 together wire side, preferably with a switched fused jumper wire. This will bypass the relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If every thing is now OK, then it's job done,replace the relay with new. If this does not allow you to start the vehicle and the problem is still there then you will need to have a scan and a check over for communications with the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T10:30:11.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2013-12-21T10:39:04.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knocking and squeaking on the Beamers front end usually ends up at the 'bottom-arm rear-bushes'. Check the bushing for excessive movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bottom arm bush failure can be diagnosed on the road by a quick 'stab' of the brakes whilst driving the vehicle. There will be a thud through the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before stabbing the brakes on the road, make sure the traffic, if any, is not too close!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - YouTube Video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENJQpe50WBg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMW Control arm bushes E46 or Z4 / Z3 How to DIY: BMTroubleU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T13:46:46.097" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T13:46:46.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8137" CreationDate="2013-12-21T11:57:32.910" Score="30" ViewCount="392984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know the SOHC and DOHC configurations. On what factors an engine manufacturer decides to go with SOHC or with DOHC, what should I choose? DOHC or SOHC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T16:28:02.347" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T02:08:48.357" Title="what is difference between DOHC and SOHC?" Tags="|engine|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2013-12-21T12:11:41.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please Please always consider the engine oil level and its viscosity a prime thing when you want a long engine life. Always do check for it.&#xA;look for engine oil that gives you smooth feel while driving and curbs excessive engine heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in dusty conditions then cleaning of air filter needs to be done frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always use right gear based on speed and rpm. Use clutch only to shift gears/when bike is in very low speeds. This reduces stress on clutch and friction plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said you do not want to visit much of servicing centers, drive slowly and carefully on rough path of roads(this will help preserve wheel alignment)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T02:03:16.070" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T02:03:16.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2013-12-21T13:43:03.703" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those who don't know, SOHC and DOHC refer to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SOHC - Single Over Head Cam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOHC - Double Over Head Cam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cam refers to a &quot;cam shaft&quot; or the thing which goes bump in the night. The cam has a &quot;bump&quot; or &quot;hump&quot; in it which actuates the valves which allows air into and exhaust out of the cylinder of the engine at the correct time so the engine will run correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the configurations themselves, in SOHC configurations, the camshaft is placed on top of the head. Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdKJw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SOHC Head Picture pulled from Google Images&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel at the right of the picture is what the cam belt rides on. This wheel is attached to the cam itself. The cam, then actuates the rocker arms which you can see are pointing to either side of the head. This is an example of a 3-valve per cylinder head (2-intake and 1-exhaust per cylinder). The 2-valve per cylinder is a much mor prevalent configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a DOHC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6BHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DOHC image pulled from google images&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, you can see there are two separate cam shafts riding atop the head. For DOHC heads, the cams can be tied together with a short chain, then have a separate chain/belt which drives the cams, or can have just a single chain/belt which runs the whole thing. DOHC engines usually have a configuration of 2-intake and 2-exhaust valves per cylinder, but in some cases like the configuration Volkswagen-Audi Group (VAG) uses a five valve per cylinder (3-intake and 2 exhaust). In most cases, the cam directly actuates the valve without the use of a rocker arm (it may or may not have a &quot;lifter&quot; between the cam and the valve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole purpose of having OHC configurations is to do away with another form of valve actuation, that of pushrods found in the Over Head Valve (OHV), which is found in most American V8 configurations (Ford uses an OHC version for their motors). OHV configurations use a centrally located cam shaft (central to the engine block), and actuates the valves through the use of lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms. The OHC configuration does away with most of this for the reduction of mass in the valve train. This reduction of mass usually means the engine can run safer and cleaner at higher engine speeds due to less inertial pressures on the valve train. Also, since this is more of a direct actuation of the valves, there is less flex (due to push rods) and a more accurate valve actuation occurs. The trade off in this is that the belts/chains/guides which controls all of this usually wear out over a period of time well before the engine's end of life (EOL), where as on an OHV engine, the valve train and timing chain usually will last until the engine is worn out. The OHC configuration is a lot more complex than the OHV in that there are a more parts which can go bad, which can cause catastrophic consequences if it fails. OHC engines are usually &quot;interference motors&quot;, which means the valves and the pistons occupy the same space at different times. If the cam belt/chain fails, the valves stop moving, but the pistons do not (right away). The piston will move up into the valves and usually destroy the valves and the entire head assembly. It is imperative that the cam belt/chain maintenance get done on time. There are no warning signs (without taking the engine apart) to tell you when it is worn out, so following the manufacturers replacement interval is very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed, the DOHC engines usually have more valves per cylinder than the SOHC versions. They will also usually have less parts involved (most DOHC directly actuate the valves, where SOHC usually have rocker arms). More valves means the engine can intake and exhaust more gasses from the engine. Think of a large circle, say one which is 4&quot; across (or say 10cm for you unruly metric folks out there). How many 2&quot; (5cm) circles can you fit within it? The answer is two. Now take the same 4&quot; circle and fit 1.5&quot; circles within it. The number is somewhere around four. A 4&quot; circle has the area of 12.57in/sq. A 2&quot; circle has the area of 3.14 in/sq, and therefor two of those would equate to 6.28 in/sq. With the 1.5&quot; circle, your total would be 7.07 in/sq. (Note: While I'm not sure if four could fit in the circle exactly, the example is valid for educational purposes.) Now imagine these circles are the valves in the cylinder head. The more valves you can fit into the head, the greater the surface area you can cover. The greater surface area allows greater air/exhaust flow into and out of the cylinder. This gives the engine a chance at better &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;volumetric efficiency&lt;/a&gt; or VE (basically how well the cylinder fills with the air/fuel mixture). This allows for greater performance from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufactures might choose SOHC over DOHC engines due to cost in design and manufacture. They might choose DOHC over SOHC for the performance aspect. I'm sure there are other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should you do? This site isn't really for giving you my opinion about what you should choose. Basically I would tell you to find vehicles which are within your cost and performance goals. Select several versions of each, test drive them, then make up your own mind. Both OHC versions have a maintenance schedule which should be met with impunity. Other than that, have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T13:43:03.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2013-12-21T14:19:14.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SOHC is single overhead camshaft, DOHC is for double overhead camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOHC was introduced to improve the volumetric efficiency of a given engine, lending itself to more power. DOHC more lately is used over SHOC as a first choice because of the ease of using variable valve timing which leads to greater control of emissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T14:19:14.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-21T21:46:27.473" Score="4" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '94 Oldsmobile Bravada and the digital dash quit working.  I found that I do not have power to the instrument fuse but have power to all other fuses in the panel.  I can not find an electrical diagram for my vehicle so I don't know where to start looking for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4199" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T16:22:27.820" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T04:43:07.250" Title="No power to instrument fuse" Tags="|electrical|oldsmobile|bravada|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8141" CreationDate="2013-12-22T03:45:28.203" Score="6" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the sad, proud owner of a Nissan SD33T (Diesel), mated to a 4 speed T-19.  The power this engine outputs (101HP, 160#/TQ stock) means it struggles on the highway, and I don't want to sacrifice my gear ratio to allow for higher top speed.  I'd really like to find a used ZF5 or ZF6 transmission for use on this engine, but am not sure what conversion would involve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply a flat plate with the correct bolt pattern?  I have access to a CNC mill and a waterjet.  I'd like to find out what I would need to make this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4200" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T15:42:47.377" Title="Can I use a CNC machine or waterjet to make an adapter plate to adapt a 5 speed transmission to a rare, obsolete engine?" Tags="|engine|transmission|diesel|drivetrain|conversion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8140" CreationDate="2013-12-22T13:52:44.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A plate between the flywheel housing on the engine and the bell housing of the gearbox would almost certainly be required to mount the gearbox. This would be no problem to produce with a CNC machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems that then arise would be to reconcile the differances in the two gearboxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the gearbox obstruct the clutch assembly in any way? Will the gearbox imput shaft engage in the clutch? Will the splines of the imput shaft mate and be driven by the clutch? Will the clutch release mechanism operate the clutch successfully? Will the gearshift lever enter the cab? Will the gear shift lever be obstructed in anyway when shifting gear? Will the gearbox casing fit in the transmission tunnel? Will the gearbox effect the underbody position of things like the exhaust system or fuel tank? Will the gearbox cross member accept the new gearbox mountings? Will the propshaft alignment be in alignment? Will the propshaft connect to the gearbox and allow a sliding joint? Will the propshaft length now be too long or too short to connect to the differencial?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your vehicle was first built it was with its present configuration. You would need to reconcile each every difference from that first build. In time and expense terms it would be highly unlikely to be a viable undertaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T13:52:44.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2013-12-22T16:21:55.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm told nonstick cooking spray works well also, but don't know if it will affect the seals...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4201" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T16:21:55.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2013-12-23T13:33:49.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lifting wiper blades off the windshield is not smart. It does nothing for you.  As for the spring thing, well it is like a pen spring, stretch it and it does not go back to normal, just like car wiper springs. Park car turn wipers off, start car warm it up, clean windshield, and you will never have a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4203" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T18:54:40.653" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T18:54:40.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8147" CreationDate="2013-12-23T13:54:34.637" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ages ago, it seemed like 100k miles was the 'aging point' of a car, either some type of milestone or a warning to start searching for something new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As engineering gets better though, it seems like that's not the case. 100k miles nowadays seems like nothing for a car, I have a 2001 Buick Regal that's more than likely got 200k+ on it (dead digital odometer), and runs fine other than some minor quirks that seem to build up when driving a great running car (powertrain-wise) for years on end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I would like to get these 'quirks' taken care of, it got me thinking about how long I should expect my car to actually last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask a question that wasn't too broad, but wasn't too specific to just my car, because that's impossible to answer. Well maintained cars manufactured during the 2000s could probably be grouped together in terms of life expectancy. And to define 'death', I'm referring to either the engine or transmission needing complete rebuild or replacement. driveshafts and rear wheel differentials seem like moderately priced components in comparison, but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also mentioned that this is a 4 season climate, in case that makes a difference. I purchased it from a southern state, but it's been up here for almost 8 years now. A little rust has appeared but nothing that appears to be too intense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3772/keeping-an-old-car-alive&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;, but I don't think it's a duplicate, but I could be wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not looking for Guinness World Records or anything, I've seen stories of Ford 1/2/350s topping a million miles, but I've also worked at Ford and seen what goes into those specific models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to bring it home, should one even &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt; an 'aging point' of a car anymore, when determining whether to repair or replace, or just celebrate a milestone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T13:46:12.657" Title="What's a reasonable amount of life to get out of an well maintenance American car manufactured in the 2000s? 4 season climate?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2013-12-23T14:54:05.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warmer weather this weekend provided an opportunity to try to get the bike running again. I wanted to give myself the best shot possible, so I installed new spark plugs and picked up some starting fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found the source of the change in exhaust note that occurred after the backfires. In fact, the difference was on the intake side--the air box had blown itself open, and the intake hose between the airbox and the intake plenum had come loose from the plenum. This also meant that no air was being metered through the mass air sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I buttoned everything up, the bike came back to life, and it's now running great. No permanent damage appears to have been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T14:54:05.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8145" CreationDate="2013-12-23T14:57:14.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't believe there is a magic number of miles or years on a car anymore.&lt;/strong&gt; The 100k miles you mentioned is about as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of a number as you will find, though it is far softer than it ever was before. Cars today are far too diverse, unlike what we used to see in the '60s &amp;amp; '70s. There are too many cars with too many variables. Manufacturers have too many models which are made for different purposes and longevity. Also consider the global economy where just about every industrialized nation is making some sort of vehicle to sell. There aren't a set of rules which dictates what/how a manufacturer makes their cars (quality control, part longevity, etc). Yes, there are laws here in the US which govern what a car should have safety wise, but nothing for what I just mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I agree this does not appear to be a duplicate of the other question you linked, I think what is posted there is valid. Two other points I can think of which were not mentioned there (and there may be more points as well):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much money/time/effort is spent fixing the aging car? If the amount of money spent fixing a car exceeds the cost of monthly payments buying a new(er) car, you should consider replacing it. For instance, if it costs $500 a month in maintenance, is it worth it to keep hanging on to it? Also, if you are putting more money into it than the car is worth, this is a sign you need to look elsewhere (if you put a new engine into a car, is it worth dumping the $3-4k into it, even though the car may only be worth $1k?). Take for instance, if you are talking about an '99 Hyundai Accent 3-door. When sold new, this vehicle would sell for just under $10k (US). This is considered a throw away car. When it's dead it's dead (though it will probably last well beyond the 100k miles with proper maintenance). You don't want to throw money at it because it just isn't worth it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sentimental value. Does the vehicle mean something to you? Did your father own it and pass it down to you? This intrinsic value someone places on an object may make it more than worthy to continue dumping money into it. At a point where you are throwing good money after bad, you may want to place the vehicle into a &quot;mothball&quot; state, where it is not your daily driver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me (and this is opinion based), as long as you can afford the money and possibility of down time with the vehicle, run it until it's dead. A used car will &lt;em&gt;almost always&lt;/em&gt; be worth more to you than it will to the next guy. If you own the car outright, make it pay you (by carting your arse around while you aren't making payments on it). When you once again are making payments on it through repairs, then you need to check your options. As was stated in the other thread, maintenance is the key. Don't forget, there will always be lemons from any make or model, so this must also be factored in to the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T13:46:12.657" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T13:46:12.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8145" CreationDate="2013-12-23T15:03:28.207" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time you turn the ignition on a car and drive along the road you will have a degree of wear, infinitesimal admittedly but wear all the same. Over time this wear will add up to a replacement part. The replacement will be a cost. How much you are prepared to pay to maintain and own a vehicle is a personal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer vehicles benefit from advances in technology. Will have improved appointment and be more comfortable. Have modern styling and appeal. They will be safer for the driver, passengers, and any third parties in the event of an accident. All together they will be a better proposition to own and drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above though ignores the romance, passion, and attachment to an older vehicle that people have for them. This can be priceless just as well as inexplicable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T15:03:28.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8158" CreationDate="2013-12-23T17:12:11.433" Score="5" ViewCount="7890" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have 92 Accord with 1.8 VTEC. The Installed Engine is From 98 Accord. The transmission is the original which came with 92 accord. This transmission is operated by Kick Down cable and does not have any Main Shaft or Counter Shaft Sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During Swap My Car was Given ODB2B Engine hence ECU was replaced. As car had its on TCU so transmission kept working great and is still working flawlessly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU Installed expects to have Main Shaft and Counter Shaft Speed Sensor attached where as I do not have them. I was thinking that why not install a Manual ECU so that VTEC should work and As existing ECU is not getting any signal so on pressing throttle in D ECU thinks of Slipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Manual ECU work in my current Setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4204" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T23:33:57.450" Title="Manual ECU with Automatic Car" Tags="|automatic-transmission|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8151" CreationDate="2013-12-23T18:35:47.910" Score="2" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the manual, we should change the lubricant when the engine is still hot to easy the lubricant flow out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from other perspective, loosening the bolt at the high temperature can make the bolt thread get damaged. It is also applied to the case when replacing the spark plug, the engine should be cold to avoid damaging the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1252" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T10:26:43.670" Title="When should we change the machine lubricant? Cold engine or hot engine?" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2013-12-23T19:11:15.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil pan never gets hot enough in normal operation to soften the metal of the oil pan or the drain plug, and any thermal expansion at that temperature also shouldn't be much of a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me the ideal temperature is maybe about 20-30 minutes after a drive, or when I can safely put my hand on the drain plug for a few seconds. The oil is still warm enough to flow easily, but I'm not going to get hurt changing the oil. Waiting for it to cool enough to handle means I can take the time when replacing the drain plug to ensure that the drain plug is threading cleanly into the oil pan, so I'm less likely to cross-thread the drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T19:11:15.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2013-12-23T19:48:34.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a leaking head gasket or lower intake manifold gasket to me. Both are fairly common on the Grand Prix of your vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CEL for Low Engine Coolant means the coolant is going somewhere. If you don't see coolant on the ground, the only other place is into the cylinders and/or the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine sluggishness would be a symptom of incomplete combustion, since coolant is entering the cylinders. Continued sluggishness in neutral rules out most transmission issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Milky/foamy looking oil (means coolant is mixing with the oil) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil in your coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White smoke from the exhaust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head-gasket-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head-gasket-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms for the LIM gasket are similar to the head gasket, except the coolant does not directly enter the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="356" LastEditorUserId="356" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T19:56:34.613" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T19:56:34.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2013-12-23T21:25:29.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern cars use such thin oil (especially those that take synthetics) that I don't even worry about whether it's warm or not anymore.  If it's warm it'll do a little better (and quicker) job of draining, but I don't think it's worth starting the car up for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T21:25:29.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7060" CreationDate="2013-12-24T04:46:13.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the '78 350 utilizes an HEI distributor. If so, then yes, you could have caused your distributor harm. The ignition module does not like to have a missing wire, so is more than likely fried. Luckily they are not hard to fix or diagnose. Since you don't have any spark, do the following to troubleshoot the HEI:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the distributor for power at the connector on the side of the cap with the ignition on. If there's power, disconnect the electrical connector, then remove the cap (four &quot;J&quot; hooks at opposing points on the lower part of the cap). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the rotor and the cap for excessive wear (terminals worn or burnt, carbon tracking, cracks, etc.). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the coil tower for excessive wear (especially the coil button). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the top plastic cap on the distributor cap (four screws). Use an ohmmeter and check the coil positive terminal to the metal case of the coil. The reading should be infinity (see the diagrams from the link below). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the coil tower and the negative terminal, the reading should be 900 ohms. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the positive terminal to the negative terminal, the reading should be around 700 ohms. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If any of these tests show drastically different readings, the coil is bad. If the coil is good, the cap and rotor are not cracked or worn significantly and there is no spark at any wire, replace the ignition module.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ignition module is located under the rotor and has two bolts which hold it to the distributor. For some good instructions and illustrations on how to do the above, you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://macsblognotes.blogspot.com/2011/10/troubleshooting-gms-hei-ignition-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T04:46:13.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-24T08:27:52.580" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Excursion. Suddenly the remote system does not respond. I checked the battery of the keyless and replaced it, but it didn’t make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any thoughts, or steps that would help me to check the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4206" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T20:01:28.717" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:17:15.943" Title="Keyless control system does not respond" Tags="|electrical|ford|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2013-12-24T10:26:43.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the engine oil while it is hot is the usual way of changing engine oil. It allows the oil to flow from the engine more easily taking less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other then time-taken it will make no difference to an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the sump and sump plug will have the same degree of expansion, minimal, and will have no real tendancy to cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damaged sump plugs are usually down to over tightening when refitting them, or ill-fitting tools when removing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing spark plugs on an engine with an alloy head is best done cold because of a difference in expansion of the alloy head and the steel body of the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been cases of spark plugs snapping off at their hexagon on the plug body. This is usually down to the length of time new spark plugs now spend fitted in the engine, and over tightening when fitting. (How many mechs have you seen walking around with a spark plug torque wrench in their back pocket.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T10:26:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2013-12-24T10:42:23.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to try would be the vehicles 'second' key, if you have one. Secondly, most garages have a key tester which lights up when aimed at with the key. They respond to the key signals. This will prove the key(s) to be working or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your key, and second key, both start the engine then the next step is a scan of the remote locking system to determine an area to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T10:42:23.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2013-12-24T11:17:38.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your '92 transmission is not operated by an ECU. The kick down cable and in-built governor decide the change points of the transmission, using line and governor pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine that you have now had fitted would come under OBD2 because of its time of production,'98. The variable valve operation would use signals from a later transmission, which you do not have fitted, as part of OBD2 control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to have '92 engine and transmission, or, '98 engine and transmission to have a single ECU controlling the installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The '92 ECU will have inputs, sensors, wiring and software for the '92 set-up. The '98 ECU will have inputs, sensors, wiring and software for the '98 set-up. There will always be differences between the two and they will always be incompatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T11:17:38.270" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8140" CreationDate="2013-12-24T14:22:27.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a company on the web called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phxgrp.com/transmission.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phoenix Casting &amp;amp; Machine&lt;/a&gt;. They make adapter plates to mate automotive transmissions to non-automotive engines (they also make the spacers for the flywheel to compensate). The SD33T was originally designed as a fork lift engine. If I read the specs right, it has an SAE #3 transmission mount bolt pattern. This is why you won't find many trannies which will mate directly to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two suggestions for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't reinvent the wheel. Unless cost is a factor, something already exists to mate your engine to a different tranny, so why try to machine something up your self. Phoenix has what you need and can get it to you a lot faster than you can re-engineer something to fit in. Can you create something using a Flojet? Yes, but why would you want to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider putting a different engine/tranny combo into your vehicle. Depending on what you might choose, this may actually be a cheaper option, especially considering the area of the States you are located.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I also found this thread on a forum called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=139835&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Full Size Jeep Association&lt;/a&gt;. It may be of assistance in your efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T14:22:27.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8161" CreationDate="2013-12-24T15:39:42.180" Score="4" ViewCount="54381" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my way to work this morning, the battery light came on. I would say it was about 2-3 minutes after I started the car. My drive to work is only a 10 minutes drive, and the light was on the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it's Christmas Eve and I have to drive 10 hours to get to my family's house, every auto shop is closed until after the holiday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big of a problem is this? I'm planning on letting my car run for an hour or so after work to see if the battery drains out completely (Is that long enough to test if the alternator isn't working?). Is there anything I can do tonight too make sure the car doesn't fall apart? I know it's a terrible idea to drive it with the alternator probably busted, but I really don't have any options. I do have a portable battery pack to jump-start it if I need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars.com/dodge/neon/2000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2000 Dodge Neon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4207" LastEditorUserId="4207" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T18:53:11.163" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T14:46:40.347" Title="Battery light comes on after starting the car. How big of a problem is this?" Tags="|battery|dodge|alternator|warning-light|neon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8160" CreationDate="2013-12-24T17:24:17.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but checking it never hurts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can change the alternator yourself you may still be able to get one if you act fast. Most part stores here are open until 6 tonight. If you can't change it yourself I am not sure you will get it repaired before Thursday. You can try some of the Towing companies that have garages as well. Because of the towing running 24/7 most usually have someone that can repair cars available even on holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check the wires going to the alternator, you will have to jack up the car because it's on the back side of the engine on the bottom. Make sure the small wire is connected to the alternator, I recently had one of these cars that the wire fell off so the alternator wasn't getting the charge signal from the PCM. It takes about an hour to change the alternator with the car on a lift, so maybe 1.5 - 2 hours if your doing it with jack stands and don't have the best assortment of tools. It might be a pain but you should be able to do it with a basic tool assortment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the negative battery cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the jam nut and the adjustment bolt. Regular wrenches will work for this but a 1/4 inch drive or a stubby 3/8 drive ratchet will make it easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. You can get away with only jacking up the passenger side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the accessory drive splash shield, ratchet works best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the lower mounting bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the belt, I would usually tell you to replace the belt while you are there but it's behind another belt so it will add extra time you may not have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the small wire going the the alternator. This is the wire to initially check to make sure it's hooked up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the big wire on the back of the alternator. &lt;strong&gt;Make sure you did step one before doing this!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the upper and lower mounting bolt and move the alternator off the pivot bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the pivot bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the alternator through the wheel well, it can be tricking to get it turned the correct way to get it out but you can get it out without taking anything else off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T18:06:25.377" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T18:06:25.377" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6653" CreationDate="2013-12-24T18:59:59.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your brake pads are about worn out. On disc brakes there is a small metal piece attached to the pad which, when there is enough wear on the pads, will start rubbing against the rotor and making the noise you are describing. It goes away when you touch the brakes because it is being forced against the rotor, not just riding against it. I affectionately call this the &quot;squealer&quot; (not sure what it's called in the real world, but the name is apt). Have your brakes checked and change if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T18:59:59.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4114" CreationDate="2013-12-24T19:23:54.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking online, the only difference I see as to what you are doing and what is suggested is to turn the key eight times &lt;strong&gt;within 10 seconds&lt;/strong&gt;. It may be you are not getting all of the key turns in within the allotted time. For the entire sequence, the following steps are applicable (so others know when looking):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have all transmitters available before starting, as even programmed remotes will need to be done again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place key in the ignition and rapidly turn from OFF to ON positions eight (8) times within 10 seconds finishing in ON position. Do not engage starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If doors do not automatically lock/unlock, repeat step 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press one button on every transmitter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn ignition to LOCK and remove key. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the operation of all transmitters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T19:23:54.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3697" CreationDate="2013-12-24T19:32:59.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll have any issues. If you continue to be worried about it, you should be able to pull the caps off of the top of the battery to check the fluid level within. You should be able to see the electrolyte at almost the top. If you don't, then I would take it back to the shop where you had it fitted and get them involved in getting it up to snuff. As Nick suggested, if it were actually &quot;dry&quot; (without electrolyte), there wouldn't be any electricity produced and your scooter would not start to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T19:32:59.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:50:24.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T21:50:24.650" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T21:50:24.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:50:24.650" Score="0" Body="Referring to the General Motors, Oldsmobile brand, GMT330 platform, which was available from 1991-1994 &amp; 1996-2001 (There was no 1995 model available). This was succeeded by the Buick Rainier and Saab 9-7x." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:02:48.997" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:02:48.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:54:34.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T21:54:34.403" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T21:54:34.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:54:34.403" Score="0" Body="Referring to the engine when the accelerator is depressed and the engine does not seem to keep up (hesitates) with the driver's demands. Hesitation can be followed by stalling (engine quitting) or by surging (engine building power without notice)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:03:28.923" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:03:28.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:58:06.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T21:58:06.760" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T21:58:06.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:58:06.760" Score="0" Body="Referring to vehicle engine temperature, where the engine exhibits steaming or in worse case scenario, engine seizing (completely stop running due to internal parts bonding - temporarily or permanently - together).  " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:02:35.997" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:02:35.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:01:38.913" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T22:01:38.913" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T22:01:38.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:01:38.913" Score="0" Body="Referring to the Chrysler Group, Dodge brand of vehicles, which have been produced from 1986 to present. This includes both the Caravan and Grand Caravan models." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:02:56.437" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:02:56.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:03:42.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this same problem, and I can tell you exactly what it is. GM vehicles use the coolant DEX-COOL, which is the purple color coolant. In the impala's if the coolant hasn't been changed for a while the dex-cool will leave deposits, or get thick is easier way to think about it. When it runs through your heater core, that silt like deposit will clog the heater core.   If it acts like mine did, when the car is idling it will not produce any heat but when you drive there is no problem with the heat. This is because the higher RPM's will allow for the fluid to move through the heater core and produce heat. To fix this you need to flush the heater core backwards and forwards to unclog the heater core. There are two hoses on the right side of the engine, which connect from the top right under the plastic cover to the fire wall. The hose on the left is the inlet and the hose on the right is the OUTLET. Disconnect the hoses from the engine and use a garden hose with a spray tip on it. Put the tip in the right hose and spray water through it. You will see a thick dark purple fluid come out of the other hose. When you see the water come through clear, then switch to the left hose and repeat. do this several times, and make sure your letting the water run through it for at least 30sec to 1min. reconnect the hoses, and replace the lost coolant then bleed the air out of the system.    ON THESE CARS IT IS VERY EASY TO LEAVE AIR IN THE SYSTEM BECAUSE WHERE THE HOSES ATTACH TO THE ENGIN IS THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM AND NOT AT THE CAP. You may have to do this several times, and if it continues, then there has probably been too much damage to the heater core and will need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALSO, if the coolant is bad enough the whole engine will need to be flushed, and if you don't have the knowhow to do that, I would recommend to take it to a mechanic to have this completed as all components of the cooling system including the reservoir need to be cleaned, flushed and refilled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4209" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T22:03:42.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:04:57.800" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T22:04:57.800" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T22:04:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:04:57.800" Score="0" Body="Referring to the Fuji Heavy Industries, Subaru brand, of motor vehicles produced from 1997 to present. This vehicle was produced as a compact crossover SUV from 1997 to 2008, and as a mid-sized crossover SUV from 2009 to present." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:03:35.907" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:03:35.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:08:04.737" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T22:08:04.737" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T22:08:04.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-24T22:08:04.737" Score="0" Body="Referring to the amount of fluid which a vehicle uses or stores in different parts of the vehicle. This could include the amount of petrol (gas), coolant or oil used in the engine, etc. Capacities vary by vehicle type and manufacture." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T00:03:17.077" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T00:03:17.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:54:03.157" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T03:54:03.157" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T03:54:03.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:54:03.157" Score="0" Body="Term used to describe a vehicle with the option to start it while the driver is not located within the vehicle. This is usually done through the use of the key fob." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:12.607" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:12.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:56:24.353" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T03:56:24.353" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T03:56:24.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:56:24.353" Score="0" Body="Volkswagen model. Produced from 1979 to present. Named Vento and Bora in Europe for one generation each." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="7748" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:40:01.380" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:40:01.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:00:40.323" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:00:40.323" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:00:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:00:40.323" Score="0" Body="Referring to the act of calibrating the Engine Control Unit (ECU) or Powertrain Control Unit (PCU). This is done for better performance, gas mileage, or to allow the components of the vehicle to run better after modification." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:04.497" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:04.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:02:26.317" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:02:26.317" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:02:26.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:02:26.317" Score="0" Body="Electronic Brakeforce Distribution. Having to do with Anti-lock Braking Systems." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T07:10:13.690" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T07:10:13.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:05:18.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;VTEC is a technology that changes the cam profile and timing of some Honda internal combustion engines.  VTEC technology is located in the cylinder heads of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;VTEC based engine image&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEQ5M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEQ5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image highlighting Honda's VTEC valvetrain&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLSBV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLSBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:32:30.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:32:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:05:18.513" Score="0" Body="Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control is a dynamic valvetrain system developed by Honda Motor Corporation that allows a second cam lobe to operate the valves and change the valve timing under higher RPM conditions" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T23:23:41.010" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:23:41.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:07:39.350" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:07:39.350" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:07:39.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:07:39.350" Score="0" Body="Referring to a mid-sized car produced by Subaru in Japan. It has been produced from 1989 to present." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:23.827" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:23.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:12:08.353" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:12:08.353" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:12:08.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:12:08.353" Score="0" Body="Vehicle manufactured by the Ford Motor Company. Produced from 1994 to 2003. Rebadged in 2004 as Freestar. Production was halted in 2007." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:19.310" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:26:47.583" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:26:47.583" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:26:47.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:26:47.583" Score="0" Body="Referring to the model of car produced by Swedish car manufacturer Volvo. Produced from 1991 to 1997. Can be found as a sedan or station wagon. First Volvo to be exported to North America with front-wheel drive." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:07.247" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:07.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:31:21.867" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T04:31:21.867" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T04:31:21.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:31:21.867" Score="0" Body="Malleable material used to seal two harder pieces of material. Can be made of (but not limited to) rubber, cork, paper, soft metal, or sandwiched layers of metal. Can also be found as a liquid which seals as it cures." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T06:12:10.527" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:12:10.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8198" CreationDate="2013-12-25T11:16:03.757" Score="4" ViewCount="49196" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does varying wheelbase during automobile design affect the properties of the vehicle that is going to be built (both two-wheelers and four-wheelers)? I know that greater wheelbase means less maneuverability (or maybe it's the other way around). Based on what factors will the wheelbase be finalized and manufactured? What figures of wheelbase are considered ideal, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T06:56:45.617" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T10:38:08.627" Title="Effects and factors of wheelbase in the design of a motor vehicle" Tags="|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:04:57.137" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two concepts to understand (which I think you might already get to an extent). As the wheel base length grows, stability is gained, but you lose maneuverability. You also risk the greater chance of the vehicle becoming high-centered (ground rubbing the center of the vehicle) when traversing bumps in the road unless you increase the ride height of the vehicle or in some way gain more ground clearance, but then you lose some stability due to a higher center of gravity. Conversely, as the wheel base length shrinks, stability is lost, but you gain in maneuverability. Some of the stability can be regained through widening the wheel track (distance between the tires on a given axle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different reasons why a manufacturer would adjust the wheel base on a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use: If a vehicle is to be used off-road (4-wheel drive) purposes, the wheelbase will not be made as long as the longer it is, the easier it will be to get high-centered. If a vehicle is meant for high speed cornering, the vehicle will be lower to the ground and the wheelbase will be longer, with wheels set more forward and back relative to the end of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetics: How does the designer want a vehicle to look when it's put together? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manufacturing Costs: When you lengthen a vehicle, costs (such as frame/suspension strengthening and stiffening) come into play, which can drastically change cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Viability: Does the vehicle actually need a longer wheelbase to function properly? This goes hand-in-hand with what was said earlier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interior Space: As you lengthen the wheelbase, the interior space can be increased. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight Distribution: Wheelbase has a great affect on weight distribution, depending on where the axle centers are located in the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight: As you lengthen a wheelbase while keeping the same distance in front/back of the wheels, your vehicle weight will increase to &quot;fill in the gap&quot; between the wheels, as well as what is needed to strengthen the vehicle to be able to handle the extra forces put on it to support it. If you do not overall lengthen the vehicle when increasing the wheelbase, the weight will not increase, but you will lose in other areas, such as trunk (boot) space in the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing with relationship to motorcycles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque Stability: If the wheelbase is not sufficient where there is an excess of power/torque, the front tire will always want to raise during a power filled takeoff. To counter act this, longer trailing arms will be added which creates a longer lever with the same amount of weight, thus giving the bike more stability on takeoff. (This is counteracting the want of the bike to do a &quot;wheelie&quot; during takeoff).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the basic reasons for selecting a wheelbase by a manufacturer, but &lt;strong&gt;there is no magic &quot;formula&quot; for a wheelbase&lt;/strong&gt;. A manufacturer must decide for itself why it would want to use a wheelbase of a certain length. They will take all of the factors into account and use what it determines as best for the vehicle design, use, aesthetics, viability, and cost factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T17:04:57.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:54:52.833" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T17:54:52.833" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T17:54:52.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:54:52.833" Score="0" Body="A vehicle drivetrain that can apply power to all four wheels/tires. This capability is &quot;on demand&quot; and is switched on/off by the operator. This tag is differentiated from the AWD tag for this reason. This option is usually found in trucks and SUVs, but may be found in cars on a more limited basis." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T09:50:02.227" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T09:50:02.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:59:40.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T17:59:40.227" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T17:59:40.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:59:40.227" Score="0" Body="Transmission manufactured by GM for use in cars and trucks. This transmission has four forward gears (three drive/one over-drive) and one reverse gear. This transmission should be differentiated from the 4L60. This is due to the 4L60e being electronically controlled through the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), while the 4L60 is not." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:26.583" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:00:23.903" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T18:00:23.903" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T18:00:23.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:00:23.903" Score="0" Body="Production year 1975." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:45.023" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:45.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:00:54.093" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T18:00:54.093" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T18:00:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:00:54.093" Score="0" Body="Production year 2006." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:49.227" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:49.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:02:33.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T18:02:33.567" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T18:02:33.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:02:33.567" Score="0" Body="Vehicle model made by the Honda Motor Corporation. This automobile has been produced from 1975 to present." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:57.053" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:57.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:05:14.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T18:05:14.767" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T18:05:14.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-25T18:05:14.767" Score="0" Body="Safety feature found in most new vehicles. Is part of the Supplemental Restrain System (SRS). Usually found in the center of the steering wheel and in the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle. Airbags can be found through out a vehicle, depending on the model and manufacturer." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T15:41:41.380" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:41:41.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8215" CreationDate="2013-12-26T07:09:15.053" Score="10" ViewCount="17196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand (from preliminary research) that when engine gets bigger, with a higher displacement that it is practically not possible to have a two stroke engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the implications in building a higher cc two stroke engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T09:48:28.897" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T00:00:56.303" Title="What are the problems in building 2 stroke engines with a large displacement?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|automotive-design|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2013-12-26T12:27:52.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first and most important criteria is what the intended use of the vehicle will be and where it will be operated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two British Prime Ministers being very tall, Jim and Ted, my department 'stretched' vehicles for them to have extra leg room in the back of the vehicle. When a British University was going on an field trip to the Himalayas, we provided LandRovers with really high ground clearances. Mrs T wanted more 'office space' in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The directional stability was maintained by a front suspension re-jig which held the vehicle true to the Ackermann Theory. This ensures that the rear wheels will follow the direction of front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of the vehicle on nearly all vehicles is irrelevant because it it not extreme, until you get into the sphere of the 'stretched limo'. Then you drive on the highway as if you were driving a semi-trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of the wheel base will always be decided by its vehicle use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T12:27:52.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2013-12-26T13:17:18.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubrication and cooling of two-stroke engines have always been the limiting factors. The bigger the engine, the bigger the problems. A big two-stroke will have a very short service life, even with constant maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-stroke engines burn oil in their fuel and burning oil causes pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The charging of the cylinders by its port arrangements mean they are not fuel efficient. Burning more fuel inefficiently again gives more pollution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Communist East German Trabant was the last vehicle made with a two-stroke engine, you dont have to say anything else really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two-stroke today is used for machines such as lawn mowers and water pumps where its simple design with small size and minimal maintenance make it endurinly 'useful'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T13:17:18.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2013-12-26T15:10:16.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where you get the idea they haven't built larger displacement two stroke engines. Detroit Diesel built the 71 series which was very large displacement two stroke engines. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_Series_71&quot;&gt;From Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Detroit Diesel Series 71 is a two-stroke diesel engine series, available in both inline and V configurations, with the inline models including one, two, three, four and six cylinders, and the V-types including six, eight, 12, 16 and 24 cylinders. The two largest V units used multiple cylinder heads per bank to keep the head size and weight to manageable proportions, the V-16 using four heads from the four-cylinder inline model and the V-24 using four heads from the inline six-cylinder model. This feature also assisted in keeping down the overall cost of these large engines by maintaining parts commonality with the smaller models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These motors required a supercharger (roots type blower) in order to function, as a normally aspirated engine could not intake enough air to function properly. Due to this, the entire crankcase was under pressure. Some of the larger engines had both a supercharger and a turbo-charger placed inline to produce the amount of air flow needed to feed the monster. They also used exhaust valves (either two or four) to vent the exhaust. Since these engines are diesel fed, and diesel is in and of itself an oil, there was adequate amount of lubrication for these. The engine lifespan was good and viable. They quit building it in 1995 in favor of a four stroke design. I believe this was due to the 4-stroke design being more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea how big the engine was, each cylinder displaced 71 cubic inches (hence the series name). The 24-cylinder engine displaced 1704ci (27.9l) and produced 1800 horse power. I don't have the torque number, but assume it was HUGE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe what Allan has said about gasoline (petrol) 2-stroke engines is very true, but understand larger engines of the 2-stroke variety have been produced and were commercially viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:10:16.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2013-12-26T15:50:44.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If engine rev limiter is getting active within 2-3k RPM this means that engine is in limp mode. The problem of not getting speed may be due to this. This mode is there to make you reach nearest workshop with out damaging your car. If it was catalytic converter then when you go back home after driving look below the car if it was blocked it would glow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have low coolant fill it and if it further reduces you have a leak. If you see white Smoke then this means that your engine coolant is getting mixed with engine system due to bad head gas-kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does not seems but this may also be due to Bad O2. Hesitation and stuff like this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your car getting over heated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4204" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T15:50:44.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8219" CreationDate="2013-12-26T21:40:28.287" Score="2" ViewCount="51814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find the head bolt sequence for a 2004 Chevy 4.3L V6 S10 truck.  I have managed to find the torque specs but the site I found them on does not list the order they should be removed or installed.  The only site that has mentioned anything about order is ehow.com, but the page was generic for 4.3L engines instead of specific to my make and model, which makes me nervous.  As I understand it, there should be a very specific order the head bolts need to be removed and replaced in.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The site I found the torque specs on: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=12-4.3L-262ci-V6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;The site I found a sequence on but am unsure about: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/facts_8008937_tightening-sequence-43-engine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T19:33:48.257" Title="Head Bolt Sequence - 2004 Chevy 4.3L V6 S10" Tags="|chevrolet|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8218" CreationDate="2013-12-26T21:56:34.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the sequence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNxLL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferred Method is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All bolts first sequence 22 ft. lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long Bolt Final Pass in Sequence 75 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium Bolt Final Pass in Sequence 65 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short Bolt Final Pass in Sequence 55 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional Method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Pass in Sequence 26 ft. lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second Pass in Sequence 44 ft. lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final Pass in Sequence 66 ft. lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T21:56:34.420" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8222" CreationDate="2013-12-27T01:48:44.997" Score="6" ViewCount="84709" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around 2005 or 2006, GM started using a 58-tooth reluctor wheel, where before they used a 24-tooth wheel in the LSx based engines (LS1, LS2, LS3, etc.). This wheel is used as a way for the computer to detect where the crankshaft is at in its rotational cycle. I have done a lot of research, but have found no credible source to tell me exactly how to tell. I believe there was some overlap in model years where GM used both wheels. The reason this is important is the PCM is specific with respect to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you tell which engine has which wheel without tearing the engine apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T02:05:49.253" Title="Which Reluctor Wheel on LS Engines?" Tags="|engine|gm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8220" CreationDate="2013-12-27T11:11:50.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All engines shipped from GM since January 2006 carry the newer 58x reluctor wheel. If you have an early LS2 (PN 12499750) then it's considered an '05 engine and will carry the 24x reluctor wheel like the LS1 and LS6 variants. This is important to know when you start shopping around for a computer to run your engine. Any LS engine can be converted either way by swapping out the reluctor wheel, but it's a bit of a pain since it has to be pressed onto the crank.&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0906_chevy_chevelle_ls_engine_swap/viewall.html#ixzz2oflNXNOl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0906_chevy_chevelle_ls_engine_swap/viewall.html#ixzz2oflNXNOl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It would seem there are a few more variables at play here, but there are two irrefutable things to check for. First, it appears that all 58x reluctor wheel engines are Drive By Wire (DBW) and all 24x are Drive By Cable (DBC). Secondly, all 24x wheels are detected by a black sensor, while 58x use a grey sensor. This sensor is located at the back of the block, near the oil pan, on the passenger side of the engine, just above the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T18:53:40.540" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T18:53:40.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8224" CreationDate="2013-12-27T11:33:49.903" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZkr4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the color of the heated part normal for 4 glow plugs that are brand new ... ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T13:20:34.960" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:41:02.173" Title="Just bought four BERU Glow Plugs. But they seem to have been used?" Tags="|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8223" CreationDate="2013-12-27T13:31:32.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, depending on the specific glow plug, this coloring is normal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a new BERU plug that has the same coloring in the image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Beru/Glow_Plug/W0133-1631189.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Beru/Glow_Plug/W0133-1631189.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice shot of a used glow plug: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzcCU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;used plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T13:31:32.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8223" CreationDate="2013-12-27T15:41:02.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful if you decide to 'test' your new glow plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lot of glow plugs start off with 12 volts, but then after 2 seconds the voltage is dropped by their ECU to 4 volts operating voltage. If you keep a supply of 12 volts to the glow plug they will burn out and become useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:41:02.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8914" CreationDate="2013-12-27T22:39:46.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 2002 ST4s that was bought new in 2008 and has now travelled 8800km. I have fitted a power commander and carbon mufflers and done some minor alterations to the air box. Spent some time setting up suspension and am generally happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been an intermittent problem almost from new and that is the bike sometimes starts on one cylinder and if left idling will usually pick up the second cylinder. Recently on a trip it dropped a cylinder and I managed to make it home on one cyl. Since then have started checking to try and locate cause. I noticed that when cranking the vertical injector will give one charge then nothing. Have had the ECU, an IAW 59m checked by Avanti and they said it tested ok but suggested that the immobilizer may have failed. We agreed to reflash the ECU and remove the immo function. Refitted to bike and took out the immo, tried to start started briefly on one cylinder and not a kick since. Had an additional battery connected to make sure there was sufficient voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am starting to run out of ideas, can anyone offer any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4219" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:07:04.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T10:26:31.547" Title="Ducati ST4s not starting" Tags="|motorcycle|troubleshooting|ducati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-28T00:36:23.250" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Avalon xls 70k miles has just started throwing out a few pieces of what appears to be little triangles of felt like material through the vent when AC is on. Not a lot but is something breaking down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4220" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:51:39.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:51:39.800" Title="What does it mean if felt- like pieces come through vent when AC is on in Toyota Avalon?" Tags="|ac|avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8229" CreationDate="2013-12-28T01:01:28.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A likely cause is a rodent nesting in the ventilation system. They may be chewing up carpet or sound deadening material. It may also be the foam that seals the ductwork sections breaking down. The material may be breaking down due to age or heat if you live in a warm climate. When the fan is turned on the air movement is blowing the pieces out the vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T01:17:23.110" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T01:17:23.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8238" CreationDate="2013-12-28T03:01:10.603" Score="2" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2013 Kia Optima EX - my mirror will tint depending on how bright the lights behind me are. I want to disable this but I don't see anything in the manual except &quot;Press The Power Button&quot; which is fine - but every time I turn on my car it default to the &quot;On&quot; state. Is there anything I can do about this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4223" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T14:16:45.000" Title="Kia Optima 2013 - Turn off Dynamic Rearview Mirror" Tags="|kia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8235" CreationDate="2013-12-27T18:45:05.257" Score="2" ViewCount="6445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how can I access DTCs by writing a code and parsing it? I have RaspberryPi and related hardware for communication with the OBD-II of car. I will generate manual faults and then after MIL is on, I want to view the generated DTCs in readable format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" OwnerDisplayName="user3098378" LastEditorUserId="4224" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T09:44:05.173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T09:44:05.173" Title="Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in car" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8232" CreationDate="2013-12-28T05:46:41.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to disable it? It should go back clear when the car is in reverse. If this is an input to the mirror you could fool the mirror into thinking the car is always in reverse. If it's communicated via the CAN Bus then you're not going to be able to do it that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T05:46:41.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-12-28T10:46:38.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This StackOverflow question and answer will guide going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5398239/is-there-a-elm327-obdkey-obd2-adapter-objective-c-programming-guide&quot;&gt;Is there a ELM327 / obdkey OBD2 adapter objective-c programming guide?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:41:56.547" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T19:01:46.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8229" CreationDate="2013-12-28T11:02:00.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ducting flap seals breaking up. see 'mikes' answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T11:02:00.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8232" CreationDate="2013-12-28T14:16:45.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thought is this, the way these rear view mirrors work is it has sensors back and front in the mirror which detects the difference in observed light. When the one behind (facing you) detects it is brighter than the front, it will dim the mirror. Covering both of these will make the mirror &quot;think&quot; there is no difference in observed light and will always keep the mirror the same without dimming. This would also allow you to change it back fairly easily. Black electrical tape placed in just the right locations should do the trick and should be a low observable to anyone else in the car unless they are really looking for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T14:16:45.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8242" CreationDate="2013-12-29T05:55:57.737" Score="6" ViewCount="6960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been learning about various older cars on Wikipedia. I've always wondered what the &quot;cc&quot; refers to in the engine description. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1964–1969 Porsche 911: 1991 cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1965-1969 Porsche 912: 1582 cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2231" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T17:53:13.333" Title="What does CC refer to when describing an engine?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8239" CreationDate="2013-12-29T06:05:36.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_centimetre&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cubic centimetre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the amount of displacement of the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucYUb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One complete cycle of a four-cylinder, four-stroke engine. The volume displaced is marked in orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T17:46:11.643" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T17:46:11.643" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2305" CreationDate="2013-12-29T09:14:23.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long before the spin balancer was invented all tires were balanced by a bubble balancer.  If done properly, the 4 point static balance is as good and accurate as any other method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective bubble balance is accomplished on both inner and outer portions of the tire rim.  This is called a 4 point balance, and can be accomplished as fast as any dynamic balance.&#xA;To statically balance a tire using a bubble, the outer edge locations are determined by centering the bubble with 2 weights at the outer side of the rim.  Once the weight is determined these 2 locations are marked on both inner and outer sides then the weight used is divided by 2 and the inner side has half of the weight of the outer side.&#xA;As an example 2 one ounce weights placed on the outer edge of the tire center the bubble.  These 2 locations are marked with chalk, and the bottom of the tire is also marked so when it is turned over the mark will show where to place the weights on the inside of the rim.  This creates 4 half ounce weights hammered into position, 2 on the inner rim and 2 on the outer rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4226" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T09:14:23.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8239" CreationDate="2013-12-29T22:20:15.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 cc = 1 cubic centimeter (volume of displacement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1000 cc = 1 L, so a 2 Liter car is about 2,000 cc (the liters may be rounded when reported)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some American cars are listed in ci or cid (cubic inches of displacement). 1L = 61.02 cid, so the Ford '5.0L engine' is their 302 cid engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cars engines typically total well over a liter, they aren't often marketed in ccs. Motorcycle and smaller motors aren't, however, so cc figures like 500cc, 600cc or 900cc are more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_displacement#Units_of_measure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; on Engine Displacement units of measure for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T17:53:13.333" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T17:53:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37375" CreationDate="2013-12-29T23:51:18.490" Score="4" ViewCount="5557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at stuff for my 2001 Honda CR-V on Amazon.com, and it has a filter for transmission type. There are two options for automatic: &lt;code&gt;MDLA&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;MDMA&lt;/code&gt;. I have searched on Google, and found the Minnesota Dental Lawyers Association and ecstasy. Searching for both terms at once brings up a bunch of spam-the-hell-out-of-search-keyword shopping sites, but no explanations. I'm pretty sure my vehicle has no desire to either sue any dentists or get high. Please explain these terms to me :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4227" LastEditorUserId="4227" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T17:09:54.223" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T21:34:51.023" Title="What are MDLA and MDMA?" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8381" CreationDate="2013-12-30T00:03:20.973" Score="3" ViewCount="17234" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a long trip (~500 miles) car started making weird crackling sounds, when it starts moving from full stop. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ugYHn02Uf8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a video&lt;/a&gt;, and sounds could be observed from time 00:01, but there are multiple of them in this video. The noise sounds like drumming on the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is: Hondsa Odyssey 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently replaced: lower control arms, CV axles, all engine/tranny mounts, and transmission. While replacing transmission, the whole bottom was naturally disassembled, so there's quite a few things which could have gone wrong, but maybe that sound reminds somebody here of the likely suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my own suspicion is &lt;a href=&quot;http://vvcap.net/db/fPW0Eqv8AX55KyMbSqUj.htp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sway bar links&lt;/a&gt;. The passenger side shows that rubber seals are torn. I wonder if some dust could have gotten into them and cause such a crackling. For what it's worth, I've filled them with grease, and put a duct tape over, but that didn't change a thing - car still crackles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I have no idea what was it. The sound was very persistent and reproducible on every start. I washed the car and now it's gone. And it wasn't even a good carwash, the bottom clearly was still dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE2&lt;/strong&gt;: The sound came back next day. I replaced sway bar links, and it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE3&lt;/strong&gt;: Spraying the strut spring with WD40 removed the noise. I wonder if it's strut mount...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastEditorUserId="2327" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T17:35:09.870" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T00:17:47.990" Title="What could cause crackling sounds from a suspension on vehicle start moving?" Tags="|suspension|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8243" CreationDate="2013-12-30T00:52:02.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the number Honda assigns to the transmission. Sort of like a model number. Honda must have put two different transmissions in that year. GM would list it on an option service tag in the car but I don't know what Honda does. The dealer may be able to look it up by VIN number and tell you which transmission you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Honda_transmissions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;List of Honda transmissions on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone is asking a similar question on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3040619&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;honda-tech.com website&lt;/a&gt; you might want to try asking there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T00:52:02.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T01:04:27.090" Score="2" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake light is on in my 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4WD v6.  The recurring pattern has been that I would fill up the brake fluid but then it would drop below the minimum mark after just a few days. It doesn't go below though. The brakes function fine.  I have no clue why this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just went to AutoZone to get more brake fluid and picked up &lt;code&gt;DOT 3&lt;/code&gt; from the shelf because that's what I had been getting.  I asked the associate just to confirm that's the right kind for my truck and she checked in the computer and said I needed 'DOT 3/4'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1.  Was she correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2.  If A1 is yes, could my brake problems be coming from the wrong kind of brake fluid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3.  Can I replenish the existing DOT 3 with DOT 3/4, i.e. is it bad if they mix? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q4.  Do I need to bleed out the whole system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RELATED:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7440/brake-fluid-reservoir-level-drops-fast-to-minimum-but-not-below&quot;&gt;Brake fluid reservoir level drops fast to minimum but not below&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T04:35:20.647" Title="Could my brake problems be caused by a wrong kind of brake fluid?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8246" CreationDate="2013-12-30T02:14:38.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prestone does make product that is compatible  with DOT3 and DOT4 fluid referred to as DOT3/4. Several sites state you can use 4 in place of 3. However using 3 in place 4 may decrease brake performance.  Without knowing the year it is hard to tell which is the most correct type of fluid for your Toyota. Regardless of the type used, that is the lesser of your problems. Brake fluid is not normally a consumable item. It should not have to be added as part of routine service. If you must add it on a regular basis you have a leak. If it never goes below the minimum mark it may be the reservoir that is leaking. If the leak is not repaired you may get to the point that the brakes fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T02:14:38.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8258" CreationDate="2013-12-30T05:27:57.453" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in restoring an old car that has a relatively underpowered engine. I'm curious how difficult it would be to replace it with a different (cheaper, more common, more powerful) engine. What sorts of considerations do I need to make before undertaking a project like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2231" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:01:27.720" Title="Engine swap considerations" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8259" CreationDate="2013-12-30T05:47:17.037" Score="5" ViewCount="50414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning more about the steps that can be taken to increase the performance of an engine. I'm curious how much displacement affects performance. For example, compare the following two engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cylinder, 1000cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 cylinder, 1500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to increase the displacement of the 4 cylinder engine to match the performance of the 6 cylinder, or are there other factors involved (i.e. how much do number of cylinders matter)? I imagine that there is a limit to how much you can increase the diameter (bore) of the cylinders. Is there a common range of how much you can reasonably increase the displacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2231" LastEditorUserId="2231" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T06:01:56.430" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T22:58:14.400" Title="How much does displacement affect performance?" Tags="|engine|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2013-12-30T06:31:47.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased and was very happy with this product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001LHVOVK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was $20 when I bought it; as of my writing, it's even cheaper now, $17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the criteria I'd look for are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low price. Don't get ripped off by the ridiculous stuff that sells for $60-300 at retail stores. It doesn't do anything useful that a basic unit won't do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to reset. You might check that your specific make/model doesn't have anything preventing a basic universal reader from resetting it; I'm not sure but some might require specialty tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to operate without a PC connected. Who wants to expose a computer to the conditions (dust, dirt, oil, grease, etc.) in a garage??&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T06:31:47.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T06:47:04.730" Score="4" ViewCount="20127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be cleaning out my motorcycle tank using electrolysis.  First, I have to remove all the gas from the tank, and then do the cleaning and then remove all the water that's left over, but I have a problem:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank has a collar all the way around the inside of the top opening.  This collar prevents the gas from draining completely when I turn it over. I can't seem to get much out of the opening for the petcock either.  How can I get all the fluid from my tank.  There's not enough gas left in the tank to allow for siphoning.  I was thinking along the lines of a turkey baster, but I can't find one long enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can get all the fluid out of my tank so that it's dry?  It's a 2005 Honda Shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T07:50:01.157" Title="How to remove all the fluid out of my motorcycle fuel tank?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2013-12-30T06:50:35.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working at drag strip has taught me one thing. That 1500 horsepower cars can and quite often run on pump 93oct. So does it. not really for street. Yet if you have I'd say 10.1 or higher compression with say 500 horses or more yeah but be careful timing is important. Most modern engines auto correct their timing by advancing or retarding ignition. If lower than 10.1 and boosted or nitrous is used still have to account for timing. So many modern kids and yes I said kids just slap on a turbo or nitrous and add exhaust then go racing with high octane often leading to breakdowns or blowing the motor entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T06:50:35.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8255" CreationDate="2013-12-30T11:52:45.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could absorb it with a rag. Either put continue to hold the tank upside down and stick a rag in the collar around the opening or hold onto a corner and lower the rag into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the cap off and whatever residue that is left after you pull out the rag should evaporate quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T11:52:45.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2013-12-30T14:05:20.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The details of preparing for an engine swap will vary greatly with the make, model, and sophistication of the vehicle. It will be easier if they are from the same make and the engine was originally available as an option.  If it is an older non computerized vehicle than it may be a bolt-in using factory designed parts. Concerns may also include, will the original suspension support the added weight (4cylinder vs 6 cylinder vs V8). Will the original drive train, transmission and differential mate to the new engine and handle the additional power. Another often overlooked area is the brakes. Many older vehicles came with drum brakes on standard models and discs on high powered models.  Computerized vehicles bring additional issues as the ECM (engine control module) must match the engine and transmission. Then there is the issue of getting the vehicle to get a passing grade from the government enviromental department in your area as it will now be considered modified. If the swap involves matching different brands it will involve considerable design and fabrication of unique mounts, brackets and wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T14:05:20.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8253" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:23:41.550" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a lot of big questions here, so will try to answer them for you, but be ready for the diatribe of the century ;-) There is a simple rule when talking about power/torque output which goes: &lt;strong&gt;There is no replacement for displacement.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you increase the size of the four cylinder (through whatever method) to match the size of the six cylinder, you will not usually have the same output. There is a rule of thumb which says, to get greater torque, you increase the displacement. To increase the horsepower, you make your engine spin higher. Torque gets you moving, horsepower keeps you moving. Even though the displacement of the four cylinder engine is same as the six cylinder, the six cylinder will fire two more times per engine cycle. This creates smoother power (less vibration). Think of using a huge single cylinder engine having the displacement as your six cylinder. While the single cylinder will be able to run, it will not spin up (rev) as fast as the six cylinder, nor will it be able to spin as high (rpm range) due to the mass of the single piston driving engine, as well as the mass having to be used to counteract the piston. To answer one of your questions, though, &lt;strong&gt;yes, you can usually increase the displacement of your four cylinder to match the six&lt;/strong&gt;, but is it worth it? Hopefully some of what follows can explain what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two common ways to increase the displacement of any engine, by increasing bore and/or stroke. Some engines are a lot more susceptible to either of these modifications. I will use the GM Gen I Small Block Chevy (SBC) as an example for demonstration purposes only. The premier displacement for this engine is 350 cubic inch (CI) version. It came with a bore of 4&quot; and a stroke of 3.48&quot;. To compute this given any bore/stroke, use the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;πr^2 x stroke x # of cylinders = 3.1416 x radius(squared) x stroke x # of cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the 350:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.1416 x 2^2 x 3.48 x 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.1416 x 4 x 3.48 x 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.5664 x 3.48 x 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;43.731 x 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;349.849 or rounded to 350 CI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, each cylinder has a displacement of nearly 44 CI. If you increase the number of cylinders to 10, you would then have 440CI instead of the 350CI in the the normal SBC engine. This is not practical for most, as to actually add cylinders would require a master machinist and a lot of tools to make it happen. So, what is left? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase the bore of each cylinder. A common rebuild overage when boring the 350 is .030&quot; (normally referred to as &quot;30 over&quot;). If you plug the new diameter of 4.030&quot; into the formula, you would then have a displacement of 355CI (if all else remains the same). This is not a huge amount of gain for this procedure, but does yield a larger displacement. Increasing the bore size is the easier of the two ways to increase the displacement, but yields smaller results. Also, in a block, you can only bore the block so much, before the cylinder walls become too thin to be able to contain the combustion cycle. Most Gen I SBCs can withstand being bored +.060&quot; over standard without too much of a problem. To go further than that, you must check the thickness of the cylinder wall to ensure it is thick enough to support what it needs to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way to increase the displacement is by &quot;stroking&quot; the engine, or adding more stroke. To do this, there are several different ways to accomplish it. An old school way was to do what is called offset grinding of the rod journal on the crankshaft. This is done by making the journal smaller on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the journal face. The outer face remains basically untouched. This may be hard to visualize, so just understand it is one method, and is not used that much any more. The more practical way to increase the the stroke is to buy an aftermarket crankshaft which has the offset built into it. There are many manufacturers which provide such components for many of the popular engines used (or reused) today. A quick trip on the internet can provide you with a stroker crank with a stroke of 3.80&quot;. This stroke, when plugged into our formula above would net a displacement of ~383CI. With only +.32&quot; of stroke, you have gained 33CI. The 383 stroker is a common stroker engine because back in the day, smart engine builders took the crankshaft out of a 400CI SBC and put it into the 350, which yielded the 383CI. This was done because the 350 block was much more plentiful than the 400CI blocks, plus, had a lot fewer problems. There are considerations when putting larger stroke cranks in engine, the most prevalent being clearances. You have to consider since the connecting rods are now being slung out further, they run the chance of hitting some part of the block where they used to not be. The connecting rods also get closer to where the cam shaft resides as the stroke increases. You can machine the block in strategic areas to prevent contact. To keep it from contacting the cam shaft requires a bit more planning. This is not true for every engine, but for those in the V configuration it is a distinct possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration of how well an engine runs (thus the power output) is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency&quot;&gt;volumetric efficiency&lt;/a&gt; or VE. In basic terms, VE is how well the cylinder fills with the air/fuel mixture. Under normal circumstances, a normally aspirated engine (one without a turbo- or super-charger ... talk more on this in a minute) is in the range of 70-80% probably. By making an engine more efficient and increasing VE, you will have a higher power output from the engine (more air/fuel, bigger bang). If you increase the VE by 10%, your power output should increase as much. This leads to forced induction (turbo- and super-charging). Adding a turbo charger to an engine effectively makes the engine &quot;think&quot; it is bigger than it really is. Normal atmospheric pressure is ~14psi. The engine in and of itself, is just a very elaborate air pump which produces power. The piston goes down in the cylinder, which creates a vacuum, which is filled by the air/fuel mixture. By using a turbo, you more completely fill the cylinder, getting your VE to over 100%. If you run your turbo at 14psi, you are basically doubling the amount of air/fuel into the cylinder, which in turn basically doubles the amount of power output from a given engine without increasing the size of the cylinder. Theoretically, if you have your 1000cc 4-cylinder engine, which may put out 100hp, if you do this you should have an output of 200hp. This is a very simplistic model, as you have factors involved such as compression ratio, tuning, component strength, and others, to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand if the engine you intend on increasing the displacement on can handle it, the easiest thing to do is check on the internet. There are forums aplenty for just about every type of engine produced. If it's out there, there are people wanting to have greater engine output. Some engines it is very easy to make modifications to, as there is a large aftermarket following. Many popular engines can be built completely with aftermarket parts. Other engines, you have to build by the seat of your pants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:23:41.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8255" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:41:19.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also heat the tank lightly, without open flame (hair dryer maybe). This would cause the gas left inside to evaporate, then could be forced out using a compressor hose. You'd need to be careful not to heat it to high so as to cause combustion. Also, do this in a well ventilated area so as to not inhale the fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:41:19.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T19:18:19.670" Score="5" ViewCount="17279" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had an oil change done at a quick lube type shop. After 36 days and 2500 miles driven, the oil drain plug fell out, resulting in severe engine damage. There was no oil leakage or any sign of trouble up to the point where the plug came out; no oil in the driveway, or parking spot at place of employment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have gone through the process of filing a complaint with the oil change shop, and both their owner and insurance company have denied liability, even though they were the last to have touched the oil drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause the oil plug to just come out, if not for that company's possible negligence or shoddy workmanship? Have we just driven the car too many miles to assign blame to any party?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4233" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T17:27:37.917" Title="How could an oil drain plug fall out after 36 days and 2500 miles?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2013-12-30T20:46:34.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a bluetooth or wifi OBD2 transmitter on Ebay for a few bucks. I have such a one for my Astra. PLUS there's an app called Torque for Android phones that goes for $3. It does everything you want and it looks much nicer than an OBD2 reader and will cost you much less. There are similar apps for iPhone and Windows Phone 8 (not 7.5 or 7.8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T20:46:34.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2013-12-30T22:17:09.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the answers work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what works best for me (esp. on the side of the road!) is a 4 way tire wrench in conjunction with the screw type jack found on all cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the correct size socket on the wheel lug (nut).  Position it as close to horizontal as possible.  At the other end of the 4 way tire wrench, place your screw type jack and raise the height so that it supports the 4 way tire wrench in a horizontal position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a stable platform.  The two free arms of the 4 way tire wrench are available for work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place your foot on the free arm that will turn the lug/wrench counter clockwise.  With one hand on the car for balance, stand on the free arm, as close to the end as possible, with all your weight, and &quot;kick&quot; down if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this method b/c you don't have to worry about stripping the edges of the lug/nut, and ruining it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4234" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T22:17:09.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8244" CreationDate="2013-12-30T22:23:11.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree with your suspension suspicion (ho ho, I slay me!) with one small addition: it could also be the sway bar bushings themselves (those that actually hold the bar and through which it rotates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the easy way to find out which it is if you can get it to happen again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a can of pressurized lithium grease with the little red straw for precision aiming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the bushings (either in the end links or one of the main bushings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive according to your standard &quot;make it creak&quot; procedure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that didn't fix it, return to step 2 and try a different bushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it did fix it, you know that those bushings need to be lubricated more often than you thought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a similar issue in the winter from my main sway bar bushings.  The original pieces were too squishy but they did have graphite impregnated in them.  When the bar would rotate, the bushings would self-lubricate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement pieces will bind and release during small motions when dirty so I get your &quot;crackling&quot; when I come to a stop or go over small speed bumps.  A quick wash will make them stop complaining until they pick up some more gunk.  A nice spray with lithium grease will keep them from complaining for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T22:23:11.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2013-12-30T23:42:24.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only scenarios that comes to mind is lots of short trips where the oilpan and oil never got really hot. Then 35 days later a long trip gets it really warm and the plug gets loose and falls out. The second is a defective crankcase ventilator along with a damaged plug &quot;O&quot; ring that eventually blows out resulting in a loose drain plug. Both scenarios would be considered longshots at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T23:42:24.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8268" CreationDate="2013-12-31T03:37:00.243" Score="3" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear right wheel&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/24C63.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black liquid is traces of WD-40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front right wheel&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ghumu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occured after driving at 30 km/h and bumping in a part of the sidewalk that was going into the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this damage need me any repair before I can put new tires on the rear wheel ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I repair / change the front wheel ? (still up and running)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CONCLUSION :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 found a decent unused alloy wheel + tyre (new) for 80$, and replaced the rear wheel, that would not fill with one of those &quot;tire repair kit&quot; pressurized foam bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the front wheel's damage has not changed the shape of the part that is in responsible of the sealing of the tubeless tyre, so no change needed for the moment ! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="1963" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T01:15:01.897" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T01:15:01.897" Title="Should I throw away my wheels after they bumped in the sidewalks?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8267" CreationDate="2013-12-31T06:17:33.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to have them either changed or fixed. Fixing may cost as much as replacement wheels considering they are steel, but I haven't priced either lately, so getting them trued might be cheaper. The tires probably will not hold air with them the way they are, so you don't have much of a choice. Besides, even if they do, they will thump like a big dog going down the road. It will drive you nuts. Get them fixed or replaced, but they won't work like they are, that's for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T06:17:33.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2013-12-31T18:30:36.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small and light cars like the Mazda 3 and Civic are standard with 205-55r/16.  these tires are quite wide and prone to aquaplaning on water and slush but they make the car look better.  A better tire would be 195-60R/16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T18:30:36.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-31T18:38:02.410" Score="-4" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car won't do anything when I turn the key no lights or nothin, battery is new, alternator good new starter , but if I hook cables up to the side post battery it will turn over and when it starts it runs good no lights come on accept the security light on dash stay on but I have no remote for that also sometimes the turn signal lights work and sometimes after a jump it don't and sometimes when I turn the car off the motor will shut off but dash lights still b on intell I turn tv off what could the problem be? And the thermal is touching the battery &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4242" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T23:52:19.140" Title="01 Chevy impala" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-12-31T18:51:18.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'Interpreting Trouble Codes' section  (page 26) of the ELM327 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DSF.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt; has an example of how to fetch DTCs.  You first make a mode 01 PID 01 request to determine the number of DTCs (which you'll need to decode the response in the next request).  Then you make a mode 03 (no PID) request to get the actual codes.  I'll try to paraphrase the example for posterity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should reset the interface and set the protocol search to automatic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATZ&#xA;ATSP0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should issue a mode 01 PID 01 request:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;01 01&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical response might be (in hexadecimal):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;41 01 81 07 65 04&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two bytes '41 01' indicate a response to a mode 1 pid 01 request.  The byte '81' (10000001 binary) is the MIL status and the number of trouble codes.  The first bit is the MIL on/off bit(1 or ON in this case), the next 7 bits (0000001) are the number of trouble codes.  The meaning of the remaining three bytes is buried in the SAE J1979 spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should issue a mode 03 (no PID) request:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;03&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical response might be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;43 01 33 00 00 00 00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The byte 43 indicates a response to a mode 3 request.  The next three pairs of bytes are trouble codes.  In this example, I think there is only one present (rest are zeroes).  If there are more than 3 to report, I don't know whether the response just grows longer or is split into multiple lines.  Hmmm, Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#Mode_3_.28no_PID_required.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggests&lt;/a&gt; multiple 'frames', not sure exactly how the elm chip would translate that.  In any case, '01 33' decodes as DTC P0133.  For further details, see the data sheet and the SAE J1979 spec (The spec costs money, you could reverse engineer other open source projects that support ELM327 chips if you don't want to or can't get your hands on the spec).  It looks like somebody has added tons of useful info in the relevant Wikipedia articles, too.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the ELM327 supports the higher data rates that the older ELM chips didn't.  That comes in handy for troubleshooting and tuning.  You can get data for more sensors simultaneously or you can max out on data from one sensor to spot characteristics that might not be visible at lower data rates.  I think you might need a special OBDII to RS232 cable to use those higher data rates, though.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T06:52:18.933" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T06:52:18.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8272" CreationDate="2013-12-31T21:50:53.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because you have the cable screwed onto the side post does not mean it's getting a good connection. I have seen it many times where the connection will not be made. You need to ensure you haven't stripped out the threads in the side post holes, nor off terminal bolt itself. This will give you a loose connection which is not enough to make contact. You can check your connections between the cables and battery by grabbing the cables and seeing if they wiggle. It is either this or the battery is bad (or not filled with electrolytes). You can check the battery itself to see if there is a charge by using a multi-meter or taking it to Autozone or any other parts place for a load test. If using a multi-meter, the battery should be around 12.5-13.5 vdc. Sounds weird for a 12v battery to have 12.5+ volts, but that's the way it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T21:50:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2013-12-31T23:14:02.360" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part number 89020661 has now been replaced by 89021182. The description of the newer fluid is (from Amazon.com - same in other places):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amber-colored, light-bodied mineral oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contains a specially developed additive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti-corrosive and non foaming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Formulated for automotive use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For use in vehicles with regular hydraulic power steering systems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, when an auto manufacturer like GM supersedes an older part number, the newer part number will be compatible in place of the older version. I don't know what the older version's color was, but &quot;amber-colored&quot; seems pretty common for power steering fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Another, more innocuous reason, for changing a part number is they create a new contract with a different manufacturer. To identify the new &quot;part&quot; they put a new number on it. And along those lines, if the first part supplier goes out of business, GM would have to look for, and get a new supplier, and then again, put a new part number on the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading further on a website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;amp;Number=2531248&quot;&gt;Bob Is The Oil Guy&lt;/a&gt;, they have reference to what I have mentioned above. This suggests a couple of things, one of which states that the new fluid is actually provided to GM by a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000SR4O66&quot;&gt;Gold Eagle&lt;/a&gt;. This is billed as a &quot;universal&quot; power steering fluid which can be mixed with other types of power steering fluid. Thing is, though, this is the same exact stuff GM is selling as PN 89021182. When I say the same exact, it appears Gold Eagle has a patent (or trademark) on the shape of the bottle. If you look at the GM bottle, it is that same shape, so don't doubt it is the same. Mind you, the Bob website is open to interpretation or input, but it seems viable and reliable in this case. One of the links on the Bob site, points to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://paceperformance.com/attachment/36210-.pdf&quot;&gt;Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)&lt;/a&gt; of this stuff. If you don't fall asleep reading it, it has a lot of information on the fluid itself, especially what it's made out of and additives and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find the newer part number all over the place ... here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&amp;amp;site=&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;q=buy+gm+89021182&amp;amp;oq=buy+gm+89021182&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt; on the part number. Hopefully this helps answer most of your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T12:15:58.180" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T12:15:58.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T20:10:00.420" Score="2" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I am giving the car gas, it starts to putt and stutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car was overheating. I looked under the hood and noticed one of my hoses to the radiator had been pulled from it. I put the hose back on the radiator and clamped it down. I had no antifreeze; I filled it up with some water just to make it home. By the time I made it to my house, the engine had started smoking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked under the hood and couldn't tell if anything was undone or not in its right place. The next morning I found that one of the hoses had busted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced it and filled up with antifreeze and water, cranked it up and everything was sounding fine. But now when I drive it, it does the putter dance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my thoughts -- either the catalytic convertor, the thermostat, or the fuel injector -- but don't have the money to spend on guesses. Given the background, I could see the thermostat being bad, but I don't know if that would make the car stutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4245" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T14:14:31.850" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:09:38.857" Title="97 Honda Civic putting and stuttering after a radiator hose failed" Tags="|honda|troubleshooting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8277" CreationDate="2014-01-01T21:24:58.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If everything was running fine prior to the hose breaking I would check and see if you have water under the distributor cap or the plug wire connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T21:24:58.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8285" CreationDate="2014-01-02T19:13:42.620" Score="4" ViewCount="2190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used 2012 Ford Fusion. When the interior fan is blowing at a low speed (1 or 2), it makes an annoying squeak. Can I put a few drops of lubricant somewhere to fix this? Does it require pulling the entire dash apart? Thanks for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4252" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T14:36:15.973" Title="The interior fan on my 2012 Fusion squeaks: lubricate it?" Tags="|ford|interior|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8284" CreationDate="2014-01-02T20:45:32.907" Score="9" ViewCount="47148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get an adapter that connects my OBD2 scan tool to my 12 pin GM scan tool connection. But will the tool be able to read the codes and tell me anything useful? Or do I need to get a scan tool that is also aware of OBD-1 or GM specific codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what the various sensors are reporting to the engine controller. My repair manual has what look like good trouble shooting flow charts, but they start with knowing the scan codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vehicle is a 1994 Chevrolet Suburban.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="2821" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T21:24:14.490" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:45:01.273" Title="Can I use an OBD2 Scan Tool on older GM vehicle?" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|sensor|gm|obd-i|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8283" CreationDate="2014-01-02T23:29:50.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Brian alluded to in his comment, in most cases it will not work. You have to have a reader which will read OBD-I. Some readers, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000R3SNJU&quot;&gt;Innova 3140&lt;/a&gt; will read both, and comes with all of the adapters to attach to the &quot;older&quot; vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brian also stated about the change to OBD-II. In the US it was mandated to change over in '96. Some manufactures changed it over in '95 as they were ahead of the power curve. Other companies changed the ALDL (computer connector) over in '95 to the OBD-II connector, but kept the OBD-I computer. If you want to screw up a mechanic, this is the way you do it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, your Suburban is OBD-I. It will require the OBD-I. As an alternative, you can use computer software to attach your laptop to your 'Burban. This is done through a cable which attaches through your USB connector. I am pretty sure &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataMaster.html&quot;&gt;Datamaster&lt;/a&gt; can read your truck, but not positive. I used it on my '94 Camaro ... Pretty sure it will work for all of the GM vehicles. Anyway, Datamaster, if it will work for you, can be setup in a visual way to show the output as gauges and such, with a lot of user configurability to make it look like you want. It works well, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T23:29:50.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8282" CreationDate="2014-01-02T23:49:20.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not knowing what your mileage is like, your Fusion came with a 36m/36k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. The B2B warranty also includes adjustments, which this actually is. If you are not over 36,000 miles, take it to your local Ford dealership and have them fix it. Warranties transfer with the vehicle unless specified (Hyundai's Powertrain warranty past 60k miles does not transfer unless vehicle goes to a relative). The B2B should transfer and they have to fix it. I know this doesn't answer your original question, it's something which is not well advertised and will get your issue fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Since you have a billion miles on this thing, yes you will have to tear the dash apart, but I doubt a drop of oil will fix it. The fan motors have bushings which are sealed. These bushings are pre-lubed for the life of the fan. The good news is, they should have made it fairly easy to get to. Before you go destroying everything, though check to see if the cabin air filter needs replacing. Since your car has one, it may be shot, causing a &quot;vacuum&quot; type interference with the fan. These should be replace every 15k miles or something (check you owners manual or online for scheduled maintenance). If this doesn't get you fixed, these may actually be something interfering with the fan, so check for that. I'm suggestion a leaf or some such might have got in to where the fan is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is a nogo, you will probably need to change out the fan. The replacement part name is &quot;blower motor&quot;. The Motorcraft part number is: MM1091 (Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 8E5Z19805A, MM1063).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T14:36:15.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T14:36:15.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8319" CreationDate="2014-01-03T15:14:56.983" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Volvo 440 GL (~1994) and I need to find a part to the exhaust system that costs the same amount as the car itself if bought from the Volvo company itself: this is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8054/3252&quot;&gt;flange part&lt;/a&gt; in the exhaust system with 6 bults, not 4 as in some Volvos. So now I am trying to find out which Volvos have the equivalent parts as the Volvo 440 GL. Volvo 240, 460 and with which motor? I have heard that even Volvos with 440 GL but different motors use different parts. The information would be very useful in waiting for old parts to get separated from accident cars, having automatic old part monitoring setted on like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.avk.fi/fi/paivystaja/purkuajoneuvot?v=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So how can I find which Volvos have the same parts as the Volvo 440 GL with 2.0 liters motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:17:56.197" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:17:56.197" Title="Volvos with the same parts as the Volvo 440 GL with 2 liter motor?" Tags="|exhaust|volvo-440|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2014-01-03T15:21:37.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other aspect which I did not see mentioned in either of the answers is, if you overfill the oil to the point where the crank/rods comes in contact with the oil, you can cause damage to the crank and rods themselves. At 1200 rpm, the crank and rods would be hitting the oil 20 times every second. Permanent engine damage can occur to the bearing as these are forces which do not normally occur inside of the engine. Even at low rpm, the damage can occur rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T15:21:37.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8289" CreationDate="2014-01-03T17:29:02.267" Score="4" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had issue with the heater in my Mercury Sable for a number of years. Over that time span I've worked on it several times, with a range of results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~5 years ago, I had a garage look into the issue with the heat not working. They flushed the radiator. Things worked decently for a few weeks afterwards, but it soon returned to an unacceptable level of heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over the past few years I've flushed the radiator myself. Each time it worked OK (not as good as when the dealership flushed it) but returned to an unacceptable level of heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last winter I replaced the heater core. Afterwards, things seemed to work well for the remainder of the season.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 3 months ago I flushed the heater core as well as the entire cooling system. I believe I got the heater core completely clean. Things were better for a while (maybe 40% of maximum heating) but have now returned to almost no heat coming out at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes a long time for the heat gauge to register as anything but cold, about 10-15 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving the heater off for a while, then turning it on provides good heat for about 5 seconds, then it quickly loses heating power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There doesn't seem to be a leak in the system, as the coolant is always full.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coolant always seems dirty every time I check it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After having replacing and subsequently flushing the heater core, I don't believe that's the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've checked the heater blend door actuator and it's working properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hoses on both sides of the heater core get hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blower works great; the AC has no issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car doesn't overheat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This morning I could smell coolant when I had the heater on low and I was sitting in the car on the way to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2132" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T17:33:46.527" Title="'00 Mercury Sable Heater Only Working at ~20% Power" Tags="|heater|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8288" CreationDate="2014-01-03T17:33:46.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It takes a long time for the heat gauge to register as anything but cold, about 10-15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is almost definitely a stuck open thermostat. The engine should reach operation temperature within 10 minutes, meaning middle of the gauge. You should see it start moving up within about 5 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T17:33:46.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7868" CreationDate="2014-01-03T21:00:43.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://owners.nissanusa.com/content/techpub/ManualsAndGuides/Altima/2013/2013-Altima-owner-manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can find your answer in the owner's guide.&lt;/a&gt; Check page 196 of the pdf – &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T21:00:43.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8574" CreationDate="2014-01-03T21:11:56.747" Score="4" ViewCount="2862" Body="&lt;p&gt;2008 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7L V engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed last month that my coolant reservoir was well below the 'low' mark. I filled her up, only to find out last week that it was back to the same spot (about an inch above dead empty). &lt;strong&gt;What could be causing this behavior?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An internal leak would completely use the remaining coolant, then, when depleted, overheat my engine. But an external leak (a crack in the reservoir itself) would be obvious, and I would've noticed a huge puddle under the truck the next day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the dealership replace a bad water pump two months ago, at about 80k miles, so that could have something to do with it. Before going back though, I'd like to at least diagnose and understand the issue. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4255" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T14:35:57.713" Title="Engine coolant gets to very low levels, but doesn't completely empty" Tags="|coolant|radiator|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8296" CreationDate="2014-01-03T23:08:08.750" Score="7" ViewCount="33883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual shift honda civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I or the motor mechanic know that the clutch pads need replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would they check it during oil change? Certainly you don't open the transmission box to check the clutch pads during an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long would they usually last under normal usage? Do they even wear out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:36:13.383" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T18:50:44.223" Title="How will I know clutch pads need replacing?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|civic|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2014-01-04T00:50:23.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 1.8T Jetta. Mine has 211k and is still going strong. Here's a list of major things that I've had to replace, and # of miles where they needed to be dealt with. I'm not going to list things like brake pads, tires, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water Pump (usually done with timing belt, since you have take apart the entire thing to get to it): 70,000; 135,000; 200,000  (Note: if the timing belt breaks, you will destroy one or more engine components, since these things are interference engines). Be proactive about this. The water pump and timing belt is usually around 750-800 after parts and labor (unless you go to a dealership which will run you upwards of 1200).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternator: 120,000&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic Converter: 140,000 &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clutch - 160,000 (I bought mine online for ~350, a single mass meant for the VR6; chatters a bit when the clutch isn't pushed in, but costs 1/3 the price. Labor was another $350)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ignition coils: many, many, many iterations... FREE! VW has a major problem with these things failing; mine are now a totally different part number, and 10 years later, I was still getting free updates because they were always recall items.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust manifold: Multiple repairs over the years, including a full replacement; less than $150 each time the thing needed to be welded back together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondary air injection pump: my rivets failed ~170,000 miles. I took the things out, replaced them with long bolts and nuts, put it back in, and it works fine again ($10?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cam chain tensioner: 180,000 - around $400&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if that thing was garage kept, it's going to be in terrific condition. Do the timing belt and if you're a DIY'er, invest in a genuine VCDS system from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ross-tech.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ross-Tech&lt;/a&gt;. It'll help you diagnose a lot of issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T03:35:12.583" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T03:35:12.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8295" CreationDate="2014-01-04T00:57:53.650" Score="5" ViewCount="7798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid transmission died. Honda gave us an estimate of $4500 to replace the transmission. We took it to a different mechanic who suggested that instead of replacing the whole transmission, it would be better to fix it. He quoted us $3200 to fix it and $2700 to replace the transmission with a used part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He strongly suggested we fix instead of replace, since the replacement part could go bad again. He also gives a 2 year warranty if we fix, but only 6 month if we replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has me worried is that we've been driving on this bad transmission for a while. Apparently he is only replacing the belt and the start clutch, and not actually replacing the parts that have been being damaged by the problems. We needed the car this week, and I thought that since he'd be fixing it any way, it would be fine to drive on the bad transmission, but he said it would be damaging it further. But the thing is that we've already been damaging it for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts--is it better to risk it with an unknown used transmission, or fix the bad parts of our existing transmission, knowing that it's been slightly damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T19:30:54.197" Title="Better to repair a CVT or replace with a used one?" Tags="|honda|transmission|civic|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8294" CreationDate="2014-01-04T03:45:58.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it you are paying $500 for 18 more months of warranty. If the parts he doesn't replace are damaged they won't make it 2 years. When you rebuild a transmission you don't replace all the parts, just the parts that are needed. If it makes it 2 years it didn't need to be replaced, if it doesn't it's his problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with the rebuilt because the used is unknown, it might last 10 years or 181 days, for me it's not worth the risk. At least with the rebuild you have some new parts (the ones that wear out under normal operation) and of course the longer warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T03:45:58.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-01-04T05:33:31.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The life of the clutch all depends on how it's driven. A clutch driven in the hills of San Francisco is not going to last nearly as long as one driven on the plains of Texas. Yes, the pads do wear out over time. It usually isn't hard to tell when they start to go. You will notice more slippage when taking off from a stop. You might also have a smell which some would say smells like fried chicken. One way to tell specifically is during acceleration. The sound of the engine should be linear ... As the speed of the engine goes up, so should the speed of the car. If you ever find that the engine speeds up, but the car doesn't seem to be speeding up along with it, it's probably going out. You might especially notice this if going up a hill. The guys at the Jiffy Lube are not going to be able to tell if the clutch is going out, as there isn't a place you can see this wear without taking it all apart. You have to drive it to know. If you feel your clutch is going out, find a friend who is a mechanic you trust and have them check it for you ... Someone who will give you the straight poop on it and not try to sell you his services. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T13:14:31.450" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T13:14:31.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8299" CreationDate="2014-01-04T10:44:30.533" Score="14" ViewCount="154172" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to jump start my Volvo XC-60, I came across a very unexpected problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use our 2nd vehicle, a 2010 Ford Escape, as the assisting car to jump start mine.  But when I looked at the engine compartment of the Escape, I found that the battery is positioned in such a way that the negative terminal is completely inaccessible and there is no physical method that I can find to connect jumper leads to that battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was always taught to connect the jumper cables as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiuSC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With + to +, and - on the assisting vehicle to a good ground point on the car with the dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But given that the negative terminal is not accessible, I did not want to try it.  I eventually borrowed a friends car to jump start mine, but now I'm left wondering, is it possible to use the Ford Escape to jump start another car by hooking the negative lead to another location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4256" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T16:32:00.803" Title="Using a car with an inaccessible negative battery terminal to jump start" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2014-01-04T14:06:56.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any ground (earth) location will work. On my '06 Silverado, there are places to hook the jumpers which are away from the battery. You don't even hook the jumpers to the battery no matter which way you're going (whether jumping or being jumped). As long as you have a good ground location, you're golden. Given two vehicles with alternative connection points (places away from the battery), you could possibly have all four locations away from the battery and still be good. This may not be ideal, but it will still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I was always taught the vehicle doing the jumping should be the last vehicle to be connected, and that the negative on &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; should be the one which is connected away from the battery. Either way you go, the one which is done last should be the one connected away from the battery. This is because when the last connection is made, the inevitable spark will occur. Batteries release hydrogen gas which can ignite from the spark. By placing the last connection away from the battery, you severely limit the chances of an accidental explosion (think of flames and battery acid going everywhere ... not a pretty thought).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T14:06:56.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T18:40:48.867" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how can i manually start my Malfunction Engine Light (Check Engine Light) ? i actually want to generate a DTC so that i can see it on a OBD Scanner. I know even altering or removing/cutting any sensor will probably generate a DTC but i want a solution which is easy, doesnt require any cutting and DTC is generated fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:07:44.080" Title="Manually starting MIL(Malfunction Indicactor Light)" Tags="|cel|obd-ii|mil|dtc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-01-04T19:16:05.657" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an inspection hole that you can look into the clutch housing to see the clutch disc condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T19:16:05.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1125" CreationDate="2014-01-04T19:41:06.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were told that you were good for one year but this did not mean that you did not have to check the oil level for one year, it was meant as you dont have to change the oil again for one year.&#xA;If you have a gallon of oil over the limit, do not start the engine, drain the oil yourself or have the vehicle towed. This oil could cause damages that would cost thousand of $. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T19:41:06.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2014-01-04T20:21:31.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the receipt showing you paid to have the oil changed as you did, I would take this to small clain court.  The oil plug was never tighten to proper torque obviously and came off.  You need to prove your case obviously and you may need a witness like the mecanic where your car was towed and he saw the oil plug missing from the oil pan. Also the defendant may want to settle with you after they are notify that they will be sued, since they have insurance for this and want to protect their reputation.  They dont want to settle with you now because they are not compell to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4241" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T20:21:31.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2014-01-04T21:20:08.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing I can think of is to remove the gas cap and start the engine. You should quickly see a MIL. The scan tool should report something like Evap emission fault large leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T21:20:08.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T21:56:27.503" Score="1" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Ford Focus judders when idle, and is most seen under load. The rev counter goes from roughly 500rpm to 1500rpm during this juddering cycle, as if it is &quot;hunting&quot; for the correct place to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the lights are on, they noticeably dim during this time - which lasts for about 2 seconds, every 15 to 20 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; the likely culprit, however this was replaced two years ago and the battery is still being charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This behavior is most noticeable under electrical load, but also happens when the lights are off. This behavior is intermittent, and does not occur when the car is in motion - only when idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is the alternator the culprit, or is there something else which may be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T23:06:26.900" Title="Juddering under load" Tags="|ford|focus|lights|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2014-01-04T22:03:20.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to agree with spVivier. The company didn't tighten the plug correctly, or didn't use a proper plug ring / seal (or use one at all). This is, of course, assuming that there isn't a hole in your oil pan!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a number of short journeys, the oil wouldn't have gotten warm enough to heat the metal plug and make it pop out. Heat expands metal, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bringing the company to court may not be worth it, but even a letter from your lawyer, stating that you are going to take them to a small claims court, can do wonders for getting their attention and a promptly reply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:03:20.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2014-01-04T22:07:44.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas or petrol cap is a good idea. Removing the coil pack(s), on cylinder 1, is another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can easily find an electrical connector - say the O2 sensor - and disconnect it. This, of course, depends on what connectors are easily reachable. On a Hyundai Coupe, the O2 sensor is easily accessible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:07:44.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-01-04T22:19:46.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will feel any of the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Slippage&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engaging the clutch will be very high on the clutch pedal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squishy clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A foul smell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trouble changing gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A test that I do is to find a nice stretch of road, and go into 1st. Get the revs up really high, and jump directly into 4th. If you still have high revs, the clutch needs replacing. If the car judders or stalls, but still runs, the clutch is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:19:46.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7012" CreationDate="2014-01-04T22:48:49.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of aftermarket, FOSS, navigation systems out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physically, you're looking at a double DIN head unit, to fit the display. Nine times out of ten, these are running Windows CE (probably 6.0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have used Navit (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.navit.ie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.navit.ie&lt;/a&gt;) as the routing software and help develop it for Windows CE, Android and Linux. It is written mostly in C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:48:49.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7412" CreationDate="2014-01-04T22:55:09.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they Mazda has a power antenna - one that goes up and down when the radio is on - then yes, they are the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, at the end of the day, a choice to have the antenna always up or not - I like them up :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T22:55:09.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8305" CreationDate="2014-01-04T23:06:26.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; your alternator. Everything is going to dim in the car when the idle drops down to 500rpm because the alternator cannot put out enough juice to keep things up to snuff. To check it, have someone keep the engine up over 1000 rpm while you put a multi-meter on the battery terminals. Voltage should be around 13.5-14.1 vdc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;juddering&quot; ... Is this just your way of saying &quot;shuddering&quot; or rough idle? Assuming this is what you are saying, there could be a plethora of things causing this. Is the car over a 100k miles? If so, have you done a tune up on it (ie: plugs and O2s))? Have you tried cleaning the MAF and throttle body? Does it need a clean air filter? Do you have any codes? The Air Idle Control (AIC) valve might be your problem. Any/all of these and more could be causing your rough idle and bouncing rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T23:06:26.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T22:00:23.010" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Explorer V6 4.0, manual. I bought it brand new and have put just over 175,000 miles on it. I was driving down a dirt road to my home and noticed what sounded almost like a hissing whine coming from right in front of the driver seat. After about a mile the engine died on me, so I towed it home. Upon looking at for obvious signs, i pulled the driver side spark plugs out. The front two where fouled beyond belief, so I slapped a new set in and started it up. It now runs and idles fine, but as soon as you hit the accelerator it starts the whining again. I believe i pinpointed it to the head on that side, but before i tear it apart I wanted to get some ideas. Another fact i could throw in is since about 145,000 miles ive had a lifter tick, a common problem with ford explorers, but that sounds no different now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4259" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:13:07.630" Title="Engine Whine Problem" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8317" CreationDate="2014-01-06T00:01:52.947" Score="1" ViewCount="1740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a faint whine from the turbo, most evident when the engine is cold. (Barely audible when warm). No loss in power at all and the noise cannot be heard when the engine is under pressure (ie more boost). It can only be heard at approx 1/4 throttle in 1st,2nd and 3rd gears, cannot really hear it after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a 2009 Vectra SRI 150, has 81k miles up, serviced 2k miles ago when I got it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a faint police siren, it whines up as the turbo kicks in and tails off when I change gear but as I said, only while not pushing it hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I open the bonnet It cannot be heard at idle but if I rev up to approx 1800-2000 rpm it can be heard. Doesnt appear to be any leaks in the exhaust system and the noise is coming from somewhere near the turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of things to check? Is it something to worry about or are these engines known for being a little noisy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4102" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T16:31:37.590" Title="Vauxhall Vectra cdti 150 turbo whine" Tags="|noise|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2014-01-06T07:05:45.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that you aren't getting enough oil to the turbo, which means that it's running dry. Which is very bad for something that spins at 160 000 RPM. It may also be that you have significant carbon buildup in the turbo, which will make it fail pretty soon. OR it could be something less serious. But as I found out the expensive way: get that thing checked out by an expert. If you live in the UK, I'd suggest finding out if Courtenay Motorsport is close enough to you. They are by FAR the best Vauxhall shop in the country and they won't BS you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T07:05:45.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2014-01-06T07:18:05.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Polo classic 1.4 TDI&#xA;Had the same problem of loosing power.&#xA;The vacuum unit on the Turbo have a steel pipe, and a rubber vacuum pipe fit over it.&#xA;The point of the rubber pipe get hot, or is hard on the tip, so I loos boost pressure.&#xA;I cut a inch of it and replace it back with a proper clamp, and it look if the problem is something of the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4261" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T07:18:05.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8286" CreationDate="2014-01-06T11:39:22.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll find any other Volvos that share the same downpipe as the 440 - If I remember correctly it is a transverse engine front wheel drive, whereas other Volvos of that era (300, 700 and 900 series) were all longitudinal engine rear wheel drive, so the exhaust layout will be totally different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably better off looking for a cheaper aftermarket exhaust system, or seeing if the current one can be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T11:39:22.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8315" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:13:07.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tiny exhaust leak can produce a whine, but prolly not foul the plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that your intake valve guides have worn to the point of letting it suck oil through the guides and into the fuel/air charge, thus fouling the plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning the whine, I have a 03 ranger with a 3.0l and when my valves wore out (the head tulipped) it gave a whine that became a whistle, but not at idle, just higher rpms under a load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are probably correct looking into the heads. Most likely need a valve job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do it soon before the residue going out the exhaust ruins your catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4265" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:13:07.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8322" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:05:24.313" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T17:05:24.313" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:05:24.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:05:24.313" Score="0" Body="Device used to heat the combustion chamber of a diesel engine to help the combustion process on engine start up." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T18:16:14.477" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T18:16:14.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:11:35.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T17:11:35.480" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:11:35.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8325" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:11:35.480" Score="0" Body="Acronym for All Wheel Drive - Usually referring to vehicles which can apply power to all wheels, with power being transferred through a single speed transfer gear box. This differs from Four-Wheel Drive (4WD) where 4WD is usually selectable (selectable for either 2WD or 4WD), which usually has a high and low range gear selection." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T18:16:25.633" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T18:16:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:19:37.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjustments applied to the front and rear wheels of a vehicle which allows the vehicle to track correctly. The adjustments usually referred to are camber, caster, and toe-in. Adjustments are usually applied to the front end, but can be applied to the rear end, especially where the rear end utilizes an independent rear suspension (IRS), or where a rear axle is adjusted to be square with the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:12:10.107" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:12:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:19:37.400" Score="0" Body="Aligning the wheels on a motor vehicle to a particular degree from center to ensure the forward path of a vehicle remains static." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:40:03.457" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:40:03.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T18:37:37.370" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Grand Prix v6.  I got my coils checked and number 2 fire was real weak while the others are strong. Could that be why it's showing a misfire on cylinder one? I took it to AutoZone and they detected it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4267" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T15:02:37.937" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T13:43:04.967" Title="Cylinder Misfire" Tags="|misfire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:37:01.703" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T19:37:01.703" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T19:37:01.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:37:01.703" Score="0" Body="Model of vehicle produced by the Swedish auto manufacturer Saab. It was produced from 1997-2012. This should not be confused with the Saab 95, which a different model entirely." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T23:50:37.177" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T23:50:37.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:40:42.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T19:40:42.700" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T19:40:42.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:40:42.700" Score="0" Body="An engine accessory which generates alternating current (AC). The electricity is then fed through diodes which converts it from AC to direct current (DC), which is usable by the automobile in general. The alternator is usually driven by belts which are connected to the crankshaft of the engine which provides the motion to produce power." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T23:50:31.553" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T23:50:31.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:47:09.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T19:47:09.790" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T19:47:09.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:47:09.790" Score="0" Body="Referring to General Motors' full-sized rear-wheel drive platform. This designation was used from 1936-1996. It includes such models as the Chevrolet Impala, Buick Roadmaster, Pontiac Bonneville, and Oldsmobile 88 Station Wagon (among others)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T22:58:04.113" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T22:58:04.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T00:20:53.120" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru Wagon Impreza 1996.&#xA;Automatic, 1600cc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gas (refrigerant) has been refilled recently, so that's all good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air seems to be colder when the revs are higher (&gt;2,500 rpm or&#xA;thereabouts). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But then if I'm idling at a stop, the air seems to not&#xA;be cold anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been able to make the air colder by simply switching off the aircon and switching it on again whilst driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe it could be a fanbelt that is slipping, or worn? Do aircon's have fanbelts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4270" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T12:22:01.007" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T13:16:42.843" Title="Intermittent aircon problem: Subaru Impreza Wagon 1996" Tags="|ac|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8340" CreationDate="2014-01-07T03:29:19.230" Score="1" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently painted an engine post reassembly, due to cost reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No doubt I've encountered overspray on certain parts.  I know sandblasting the engine proper is a huge no-no, and soda blasting sounds like it'd be a pain to eventually paint over again (am I right in thinking that)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my real question is, what compound or chemical should I be using to remove mistakes?  I was thinking of using a Qtip to limit over application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything purpose built for these kinds of mistakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is aircraft stripper good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:28:23.740" Title="How to spot remove high temp engine paint?" Tags="|engine|paint|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T03:58:03.897" Score="4" ViewCount="4280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to remove the #3 spark plug from my 2001 Malibu, with no results. It is very hard to get to that particular spark plug because there is not much room between the fire wall and cylinder. I somehow broke the top off and the bottom of the spark plug is cracked in half. I tried different tools but still won't come out. There is not enough clearance in the area of the #3 spark plug to fit a drill in there or any other kind of tool. Please help, it's the only car I have, plus I have no money and I know just a enough about cars, to keep mine from going to an auto-repar shop. I was trying to change the plugs for a smog check, which is now past due.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4271" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T12:37:14.937" Title="How to remove a stripped/broken sparkplug on a 2001 Chevy Malibu" Tags="|sparkplugs|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-01-07T08:11:18.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the car is parked, apply 4th gear and try to drive on it. if the car turns off, that means clutch pads are ok else if the car goes on, it means they need replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4272" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T08:11:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8337" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:28:23.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is only due to aesthetics, you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cleanitsupply.com/p-32434-scotch-brite-heavy-duty-scour-pad-38-w-x-6-l-green-3pack-mmm223.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scotch-brite&lt;/a&gt; pad to remove the excess without chemicals. I take it the engine has not been running yet? If so, the paint is probably not fully cured, so shouldn't be that hard to get off. I would think using chemicals is a bit of overkill for removal. Scotch-brite will take a little bit of elbow-grease, but will strip it down to the metal. If the reason for removal is thinking there will be a mechanical issue, over-spray will not cause any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:28:23.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8341" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:41:43.083" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T11:41:43.083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:41:43.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:41:43.083" Score="0" Body="Device used to operate accessories located on the engine, such as alternator, air-conditioning pump, power steering pump, etc. Most modern vehicles use serpentine style belts, but older vehicles can use V-style." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:52.570" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:52.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:42:58.450" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T11:42:58.450" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:42:58.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:42:58.450" Score="0" Body="Spring loaded device used on the engine to take up the excess slack in a serpentine belt. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:37.797" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:37.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:47:36.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Materials used to create bodies include but are not limited to various metal allows, plastic, fiberglass and carbon fiber.  The body often has properties of safety, aerodynamics, insulation and sound proofing incorporated into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:13:54.793" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:13:54.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8346" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:47:36.227" Score="0" Body="The part of the vehicle which surrounds and encapsulates the drive train and occupants. Is usually made out of metal, such as steel or aluminum, but can be made of fiberglass or even plastic. Can be referred to as the &quot;skin&quot; of the vehicle." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:40:02.290" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:40:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:51:59.517" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T11:51:59.517" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:51:59.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:51:59.517" Score="0" Body="The process of fixing or refinishing portions of the body on a vehicle. This could include metal work (straightening or replacing) or paint finishing/re-finishing." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:12.530" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:12.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8349" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:54:18.890" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T11:54:18.890" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T11:54:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T11:54:18.890" Score="0" Body="Referring to the General Motors brand, Pontiac model, produced from 1956-2005." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:04.093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:04.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:06:30.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Rotor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brake rotor is a component of the braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake calipers squeeze a brake rotor hydraulically through brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake rotor connects directly to a wheel hub and acts directly on the rotation of the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Rotor Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmBAA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmBAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:18:40.383" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:18:40.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:06:30.557" Score="0" Body="Referring to the portion of a wheel brake which slows the rotation of the wheels/tires to slow or stop a vehicle. Friction is applied through pads by way of a caliper to reduce the rotational speed. This item is a round disc and is normally placed between the wheel and hub assemblies and can be found on most modern motor vehicles." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:14.687" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8336" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:21:12.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several items to look into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even though your refrigerant has been refilled recently there is a chance that you have a leak and your compressor is cutting on/off.  Double check that you still have adequate pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the air is only cold when you are moving then that might point to your radiator fans not running and pulling air across your condenser.  Verify that the fans are running.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, your A/C compressor runs on a drivebelt.  It is never a bad idea to check your belts.  Make sure they aren't worn and that the tension in the belt is still within specs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T12:21:12.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:23:13.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T12:23:13.963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T12:23:13.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:23:13.963" Score="0" Body="Fluid used in the brake system to transfer pedal pressure to the caliper to stop or slow a vehicle. Commonly used types of brake fluid include DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, and DOT 5.1. A higher &quot;DOT&quot; number indicates a higher boiling point of the fluid. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:08.483" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:08.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:29:15.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T12:29:15.877" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T12:29:15.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:29:15.877" Score="0" Body="The process of purchasing a vehicle. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:40:07.020" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:40:07.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:39:30.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAN (Controller Area Network) bus (internal vehicle communications network) is a connector to a message-based protocol network, designed originally for automotive applications, but can now be found in aerospace and maritime as well. This is a standard which allows different parts within a vehicle to communicate with each other without the use of a host computer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T15:54:02.450" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T15:54:02.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:39:30.887" Score="0" Body="CAN (Controller Area Network) bus (internal vehicle communications network) is a message-based protocol, designed originally for automotive applications, but can now be found in aerospace and maritime as well. This is a standard which allows different parts within a vehicle to communicate with each other without the use of a host computer." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:40:30.990" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:40:30.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:43:05.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An image of an automotive carburetor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yxe2O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yxe2O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An image of two motorcycle carburetors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwPrD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwPrD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T00:01:45.317" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:01:45.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8361" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:43:05.220" Score="0" Body="A device on an internal combustion engine that meters the flow of fuel at a particular dynamic rate into an internal combustion engine" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:52:02.330" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:52:02.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8362" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:51:04.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catalysts work best when fuel mixture is carefully controlled very near stoichiometric(Lambda 1.000).  In lean mixtures NOx is poorly reduced due lack of available fuels. In rich mixtures fuels are not completely burned due to lack of available Oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalyst failure has two primary causes. 1) Heat damage usually caused by poor control of the fuel amount and/or mixture fed to the catalyst.&#xA;2) Damage from contaminates. Phosphorus is the most common permanent contaminate. It comes from engine oil and coolant. It combines with the catalyst substrate and cannot be removed.  Sulfur is another contaminate that is common. It is less of a problem because it can be removed by running the system with a slightly rich mixture. Lead is much less common but very aggressive contaminate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:31:10.823" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:31:10.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8363" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:51:04.457" Score="0" Body="Device placed within the exhaust system used to catalyze pollutant gasses found in exhaust gasses. Is normally located after the exhaust header, but before the muffler. Can be configured as 2-way or a 3-way: the 2-way affecting hydro-carbons (HC) and Carbon-monoxide (CO) gasses; the 3-way affects Nitrogen Oxide (NOx - do not confuse with Nitrous Oxide or NO2) as well." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:29.580" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:29.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:05:37.057" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T13:05:37.057" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:05:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8365" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:05:37.057" Score="0" Body="Referring to the automobile manufacturer Chrysler Group LLC, which is a subsidiary of the Italian auto maker Fiat. Could also refer to the flagship brand of that Group." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:25.500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:25.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:07:29.583" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T13:07:29.583" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:07:29.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:07:29.583" Score="0" Body="Referring to the French auto maker, which is part of the PSA Peugeot Citroën Group." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:39:59.350" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:39:59.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:19:01.197" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T13:19:01.197" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:19:01.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:19:01.197" Score="0" Body="Referring to the Chrysler Corporation, Jeep brand vehicle model. Also known as an XJ. Produced from 1984 to 2001 (US - 2005 in China). Should be differentiated from the Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:40:09.787" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:40:09.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:35:38.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly we need to know if the HT cables are in good condition (measure the resistant)&#xA;If not enough antifreeze used on cooling system rust will block thermostat (which will cause over heating)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4274" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:35:38.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:19:11.907" Score="4" ViewCount="18351" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know if my car has an engine block heater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the manual, which has no mention of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I looked for a plug near the front of my car, but didn't see it. Where would it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I searched online, but didn't find a conclusive answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, it seems that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts-catalog/honda/civic-coupe-parts/2010/si-nav/6-speed-manual/accessories/engine-block-heater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some sites of questionable repute&lt;/a&gt; seem to be selling a &quot;2010 civic engine block heater.&quot; It seems that Honda has this feature on some civics, but those are either &lt;code&gt;Si&lt;/code&gt; or Hybrid. Mine is neither of those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to just check and find out definitively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:01:11.117" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T16:21:39.180" Title="Does my car have an engine block heater? (2010 civic)" Tags="|civic|block-heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:53:25.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Filter outside air before it enters the engine. Helps prevent engine damage. Filter element may be dry or oil soaked. May be made out of paper, cotton fiber, or oil-bath in older engines (elements may also be made out of other materials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:15:10.207" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:15:10.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8373" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:53:25.903" Score="0" Body="A filter used to reduce particulate count in air prior to air entering the throttle body or carburetor of an internal combustion engine." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:09:11.587" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T23:09:11.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:14:05.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A component of an AC system, cabin filters clean particulates from internal environments of vehicles by passing external or internal air through a ventilation system through the filter using a type of fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An Image of a cabin filter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXZk4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXZk4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:27:28.300" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:27:28.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:14:05.757" Score="0" Body="Filter used primarily to clean air which comes into the passenger compartment. This is usually paper based, but can have an added charcoal portion to reduce odors." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:27:28.300" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:27:28.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:31:29.993" Score="0" ViewCount="15089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been running straight water as coolant in my truck.  As we have very few days in the single digits, I have had no trouble.  However, today dropped to 7 degrees.  I allowed my truck to warm up approx 15 minutes before leaving.  As soon as I hit the road, the temp started to climb.  Less than a mile down the road, the &quot;Check Gage&quot; light came on and I immediately returned home.  If the temp gets above freezing will I be able to drive the truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4275" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T00:31:45.337" Title="Low coolant in freezing weather" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8376" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:39:28.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The probable answer here is &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt;. Engines have freeze plugs in them which, when the block and coolant freezes, will pop out. This is a relief point so as not to damage the block (does not completely rule out block damage). When this happens and the coolant thaws, it will flow out of the block. This is the reason the temp went up and the check engine light came on. I would bet you also saw steam from under the hood as well. Freezing coolant can also damage the radiator. There is a reason it is called &lt;strong&gt;Anti-Freeze&lt;/strong&gt; ... it's there for occasions such as these.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other reasons besides freezing why it is bad to run pure water as coolant. Water causes rust and corrosion in the block, which when it starts flaking can cause blockages in the heater and radiator cores. There are also anti-foaming agents in the anti-freeze which allows it to cool better. There are a bunch of other reasons as well, but I'm afraid you are probably hosed at this point. You have more than likely cause some engine damage. Hopefully the overheating has not cause further damage to the heads as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to anyone out there is to NEVER run regular water as coolant. (There are additives such as water-wetter which work, but then the water is treated, so don't pertain to what I'm saying.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I was given great advice by moderator Bob Cross to add two pertinent links. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3572/running-with-straight-water-as-coolant-in-the-summer-is-it-fine/3575#3575&quot;&gt;Running with straight water as coolant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5504/using-only-coolant-or-mix-of-water-for-radiator/5505#5505&quot;&gt;Using only coolant or mix of water for radiator&lt;/a&gt;, both of which are from this SE site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:22:16.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:58:38.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(EDIT: Since the OP told me he is in Canada, I will update my post accordingly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your car is a Canada car, it more than likely came with one due to the cold Canadian winters. Doing some checks online, it appears the factory block heater is locate at the passenger side front of the engine, just below the exhaust manifold. It screws into the block. Here is a picture of it (pre-installation w/ cord):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIUV2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda engine block heater - image from Google Image Search&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may see it (the brass looking piece) with or without the wire as it is detachable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the pics I've seen, it would be pretty hard to see. Since you are having problems finding it visually, the easiest way to check is to look on the Monroney sticker (window sticker from the dealer) if you still have it. Since it is not a regularly installed option, it would be listed there as an option. The next thing you can do is to call a Honda dealership and have them run the VIN to check to see if it is installed. You'd talk to the parts department to do this. If they are unwilling to do this, you could take it by the dealership directly and have an experienced Honda technician take a look. They would know where the stock location of the block heater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to install an aftermarket block heater, there are three types I know of. First is the kind which you install inline in the heater hose. You cut out a portion of the coolant line going to the heater core. The unit then plugs into a standard electrical outlet which allows you to heat (or keep heated) all of the coolant within the system. Secondly is the type which replaces a freeze plug in the engine. This does the same basic thing as the first one I mentioned by heating the engine coolant. The third type magnetically attaches to the exterior of the engine oil pan and heats the oil. Of the three this is the easiest (and least messy) to install, but is probably also the least efficient. Also, if you have an aluminum oil pan, it will have nothing to attach to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T18:16:35.810" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:16:35.810" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8379" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:16:58.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:16:58.637" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:16:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:16:58.637" Score="0" Body="Accessory used to heat engine blocks during extreme cold weather situations. This helps to eliminate engine damage during extreme cold weather as well as allow for easier starts." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:48:21.333" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:48:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8244" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:19:20.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to recap. Cause of the noise was the strut spring. Can't tell exactly what caused it to move in the strut mount, so it's likely a worn mount itself. Greasing the spring where it touches the metal resolved the grunt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:19:20.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T22:10:03.257" Score="6" ViewCount="1250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, this is going to be a bit wordy. I have lots of details...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, the temperature was in the single digits with a negative wind chill. I started up my 96 Blazer and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. I then drove around the corner, and by the time I got a few blocks away, the temperature was at 240 degrees. I immediately pulled off to my uncles house and let it cool down. After looking at it for a while, I drove it back home and then to the store. On the way to the store, it would get up to about 230 while idling at a stop light, but would immediately drop when I started moving. Anyway, the next day the temperature warmed up and I drove it from Chicago to Indianapolis with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well yesterday it got to 15 below here with a -25 wind chill. I went to start it and it started OK. After warming up for 20 minutes, I decided to drive it around the parking lot. I got stuck in some snow briefly (even with 4WD), and by the time I got out of it, the temperature was 240 degrees. By the time I got back to my spot, it hit 260 and the radiator cap released and blew fluid everywhere. (No fluid in the oil.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I waited until today, put some more anti-freeze in it and started it up. No problems at all. I drove around the block and it got up to 230 again. I let it idle for a few minutes and it stayed at 230. Finally, I hit the gas and got the RPMs up to about 3500. The temperature climbed to 250, and as soon as it 250, it immediately dropped to 150 (within seconds). Since no fluid was lost and I didn't crack the block, I'm assuming that it finally decided to cycle the fluid through the engine, which is why it dropped so quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the only hunch I have right now is maybe the thermostat is stuck, but given that this only happens in extremely cold weather, I'm not 100% sure. Does this sound like a problem with the thermostat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4279" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T12:11:27.460" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T21:13:12.477" Title="Blazer overheating in cold temperatures" Tags="|chevrolet|cooling-system|blazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8385" CreationDate="2014-01-08T00:23:55.820" Score="6" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much of the United States struggles through the end of the nasty cold spell, a thought came to mind: Is it generally energy efficient to run the heat in my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me be a little more specific. I own a Chevrolet HHR, and as far as my understanding goes, heat is provided to the cabin by means of circulating part of the coolant loop near the blower when it is demanded (this much I think I know when I had to replace the heater core due to a mysterious coolant drainage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, excluding the need for electricity being provided to the blower, am I essentially being energy efficient by using the engine's heat to stay warm instead of wearing my coat in the car, or is there a separate heating element that is using more energy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4280" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:06:25.423" Title="Is it efficient to use the cabin heat in my car?" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8384" CreationDate="2014-01-08T01:11:18.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the only extra energy consumed is the electricity used by the blower fan to move the warmed air. In the grand scheme of things the extra fuel required to generate that electricity is miniscule. The coolant is circulated regardless of the heater setting. Moving the selector to cool or warm merely directs all the air over the heater core or blends outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T01:11:18.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8395" CreationDate="2014-01-08T03:39:51.290" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of these bulbs burnt out. I'm not much of a mechanic. I need to get it changed. So, is it doable or do I have to take it to a shop? I don't even know what bulb goes there as I'm not sure how can I remove the bulb. Once I have the bulb, I can go buy another and then replace it.&#xA;If this is doable without going to a shop, then can you please tell me the steps for replacing this bad bulb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4282" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T14:00:18.703" Title="2010 Camry rear reading light bulb replacement" Tags="|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T03:50:05.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I noticed thread-like lines in or on my lightly-frosted windshield in the current single-digit temperatures. They did not resemble any kind of crystalline pattern and looked more like long strands of a spider web than anything else, though when I touched them there was nothing there. As the temperature rose inside the car, they slowly disappeared. If it matters, my windshield was completely replaced due to a stress crack in the one prior. Can anyone tell me what they were?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4281" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:26:37.243" Title="Lines on windshield in cold temperatures" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8384" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:06:25.423" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a nice tip: if you turn up the heat in your car, it helps lower the operating temperature of your engine. Sometimes by as much as 10%. Not a problem when you're driving around in icy cold weather, but if your car is overheating, turning on the heat, opening the windows and putting the blower on full could save your engine from popping a gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn up the heat and it lowers your engine temp to within optimal temperature range, I would argue that it actually improves economy. But that's just theory. But as others have said, the theoretical difference in fuel consumption is too small to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:06:25.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8376" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:16:00.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you may be lucky and this isn't permanent damage. If you have a garage, pull your truck into it and stick a nice electric element heater under it and wait a few hours. This is a more gentle method than what my grandfather used to get his tractor started on cold mornings: he literally made a fire under it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winter conditions require you to have 3 parts antifreeze to 1 part water in your coolant tank. High heat summers require the opposite: 1 part antifreeze to 3 parts water. Or 50/50 if you're too lazy to change it twice a year. Antifreeze does three very important things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, and most obvious, as its name implies it prevents the cooling system from freezing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It raises the boiling point of the water so that gas pockets don't form when the engine gets hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It prevents, or at least minimises, rust in the cooling system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:16:00.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8390" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" Score="0" Body="Swedish carmaker known for solidly built cars and early adoption of safety features." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:22:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8392" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8393" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" Score="0" Body="General lighting questions, such as those relating to changing bulbs, diagnosing lighting faults, etc" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:23:38.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:26:37.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be humidity(in this case dew if it's in the morning) that just froze over your windshield. On my old car it will be more apparent in the wipers marks on the windshield as it would trap more humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happen to me often when getting colder temperature. When the car got hotter or outside temperature go up, it will just evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:26:37.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2014-01-08T11:51:41.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this by saying I have never changed this bulb in a Camry before ... with that said, the replacement bulb should be a 194 or 168 or 2825 (different numbers for same basic bulb). It looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1uYMf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulb Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps I found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/271120-diy-rear-map-lights-removal-w-moon-roof.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) First you want to remove base from roof liner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 clips in the rear...2 in front...and 2 on sides (6 total). Put screwdriver between base and roof liner and pry down and out while pulling on base. Start with sides then work around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAO2j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outer clips&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Remove cover from base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 10 clips holding cover to base. Put screwdriver between base clip and cover and pry out to unhook (make sure they are staying out) then work your way around 1 by 1. There are 2 clips in the middle...1 you can unhook like others. Other middle clip you cant see but you will need to wait until you get all other clips unhooked then just pull apart the last clip will just unhook itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00uR8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cover Clips&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Remove bulb from bottom and replace with bulb of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now access bulb and replace it. After replacing bulb just clip cover back to base and base back to roof. Done&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a full list of bulbs for your vehicle, look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elightbulbs.com/2010-Toyota-Camry-Replacement-Light-Bulbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I realized after I posted you were looking for the installation of the reading lights in the back, not the front map lights, so updated to reflect. Also, readded first cover image as it didn't show up for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T14:00:18.703" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T14:00:18.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8383" CreationDate="2014-01-08T12:10:58.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single digit temperatures would not freeze your coolant assuming it has antifreeze mixed in appropriately and isn't just water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you went from 250 to 150 within seconds I would assume something was blocking the flow of fluid.  Thermostat staying shut would be the most likely culprit.  It could be that the cold weather is pushing a failing thermostat to show more symptoms of the problem and less when the temperature is warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it dropped to 150 is also interesting because normal operating temperature for your blazer should be somewhere in the 180-190 range.  That makes me think that the thermostat went from stuck closed to failing wide open.  It wouldn't explain the overheating but there might also be a problem with your temperature sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T14:57:05.690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T14:57:05.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T13:09:06.277" Score="3" ViewCount="1896" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today someone broke my car fuel outer case and taken out fuel.&#xA;I came home by driving but then i have now one doubt in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if he put something else in tank like &lt;code&gt;water, sand,&lt;/code&gt; etc in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although i didn't find any traces of those near fuel tank but not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i want to know what will happen if something is there and when i will notice something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4284" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T01:05:07.073" Title="What will happen if there is something else also with petrol in car" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8399" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:54:49.163" Score="4" ViewCount="2366" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Forester Check Engine light is on. I connected an Autel MaxiScan MS300 OBD-II scan tool and got indication for two codes. Browsing through the codes, it reads &lt;code&gt;P0130&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;P0130 P&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is easily found to be the O2 sensor problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I could not determine what the second code means. Obviously it is closely related to the &lt;code&gt;P0130&lt;/code&gt; code, but the tool specifically indicates two codes rather than one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any idea what this &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; suffix can indicate? The tool user manual is not helpful here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:39:56.710" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:39:56.710" Title="Subaru Forester OBD Scan Codes &quot;P0130&quot; and &quot;P0130 P&quot;" Tags="|subaru|obd-ii|o2-sensor|forester|p0130|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8398" CreationDate="2014-01-08T22:23:18.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say &quot;PD&quot; for pending codes, so maybe not.  &quot;P0130 P&quot; isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open wire to O2 Sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short to ground in O2 sensor wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust Leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T22:23:18.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet - HO2S Circuit Sensor 1, if the vehicle stay in open loop to long this code sets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subaru - front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" Score="0" Body="O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T22:30:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T02:14:32.140" Score="2" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a second (spare) smart key for my 2005 Mercedes A Class. Short of going through a Mercedes dealer is there a relatively cheap way of acquiring one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4286" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T10:48:31.777" Title="Spare smart key for mercedes" Tags="|mercedes-benz|smartkey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2014-01-09T03:28:32.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old post but as it comes up on search engines I would like to add... &#xA;It seems as though clutches last longer with mechanical linkage .&#xA;Additionally, when replacing clutches on hydraulic systems- if you have the flywheel turned(resurfaced) then you need a spacer, whereas with the old mechanical linkage it would simply require adjusting prior to the first drive after reassembly of the clutch setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4287" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T03:28:32.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5672" CreationDate="2014-01-09T08:19:02.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a can of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Holts-HT3YA-Tyreweld-Emergency-Puncture/dp/B000Y8WB8W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tyre Weld&lt;/a&gt; which would inflate a flat tyre and seal the puncture on amazon. It's much less messy than having to wrestle a piece of sticky earthworm (at least, that's what it looks like) into a hole at the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to be much cheaper than whatever the dealer charges you for a replacement kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T08:19:02.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8402" CreationDate="2014-01-09T10:48:31.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no relatively cheap way. There ARE ways, but they're definitely not cheap. My car has a similar key to yours and the best price I was quoted was ZAR 1600, which translates to 100 Pounds or $160.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may get away with having a spare key made without the electronic transponder. That should be much cheaper, but you won't be able to remote lock or cancel your alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T10:48:31.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8397" CreationDate="2014-01-09T10:57:24.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what your fuel filter is for. The worst thing that could happen when someone puts sand in your fuel tank is that you'll have to have the tank, pump and pipes cleaned and the filter replaced. If someone put water in the tank, you could simply fill up with fuel and drive around a bit. Water actually makes your car rev more smoothly at high RPM. Just get it out quickly (2 or 3 days) before corrosion starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T10:57:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T12:57:20.537" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T12:57:20.537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T12:57:20.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T12:57:20.537" Score="0" Body="Toyota brand full-sized sedan. Produced from 1994 to present. Also known as Pronard in Japan." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:11:33.400" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:11:33.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8409" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:01:30.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term intake can include the air filter box, fresh air intake tube, throttle body and intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T19:24:08.107" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T19:24:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:01:30.273" Score="0" Body="The point at which air enters the intake tract of a motor vehicle or stationary engine" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:47.567" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:47.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8411" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:04:48.690" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:04:48.690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:04:48.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8412" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:04:48.690" Score="0" Body="GM brand, Chevrolet model, produced from 1968 to 2005. Includes full-sized and S-10 versions. Should not include the Trailblazer." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:11:12.603" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:11:12.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:20:56.503" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:20:56.503" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:20:56.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:20:56.503" Score="0" Body="A Division of General Motors. Includes models such as Grand National, Riviera, Gran Sport, Regal, Enclave, LaCrosse, and others." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:22:05.280" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:22:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:23:33.387" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:23:33.387" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:23:33.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:23:33.387" Score="0" Body="A component of a hydraulic clutch system. Includes a master cylinder and a slave cylinder." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:20:04.167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:20:04.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:41:54.007" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:41:54.007" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:41:54.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:41:54.007" Score="0" Body="Rubber boot which protects the constant velocity (CV) joint, which is usually found on the drive axles of front wheel drive." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:34.620" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:45:18.487" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:45:18.487" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:45:18.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:45:18.487" Score="0" Body="General Motors brand, Chevrolet model compact vehicle, produced from 2004-2010 (still in production in Brazil). " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:45.993" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:45.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:52:01.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T13:52:01.543" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T13:52:01.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T13:52:01.543" Score="0" Body="The act of starting a vehicle in which the internal combustion engine that is at or near the same temperature of it's environment." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:54:05.380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:54:05.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:03:26.213" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T14:03:26.213" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:03:26.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8424" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:03:26.213" Score="0" Body="Acronym meaning &quot;Do It Yourself&quot;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:37.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:37.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:06:32.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A type of brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 205 °C (401 °F) and a wet boiling point of 140 °C (284 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:38:59.830" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:38:59.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8426" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:06:32.647" Score="0" Body="Referring to automotive brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 205 °C (401 °F) and a wet boiling point of 140 °C (284 °F)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:19.307" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:19.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:09:08.940" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T14:09:08.940" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:09:08.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:09:08.940" Score="0" Body="Referring to automotive brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 230 °C (446 °F) and a wet boiling point of 155 °C (311 °F)" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:25.650" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:25.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6719" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:13:27.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going through similar issues with mine,  sometimes it is hard to start. On acceleration medium to hard. It cuts all power till I back off and gently feed it on. Then it's fine once over 2000 rpm. I'm suspect of the hex shaped solenoid that pushes the variable cam timing is either sticking and/or not pushing or pulling. The location of it is on the drivers side,  rear of rocker cover. &#xA;IMO, yours sticks and therefor your cam timing is pushed out of whack. Hence no start. &#xA;Mine is the same sometimes. Mine also sticks. I think therefor making mine detonate (ping) then the knock sensor cuts fuel and spark to save engine. Then it must stop detonating and return the power to me. I tested mine by pulling throttle cable lots of times listening to the clicks. Then the time it didn't click = the car wanting to stall or run roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4288" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T12:27:56.807" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T12:27:56.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:42:18.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car heater started acting up. It would heat, then no heat. So I put a new thermostat in, had the heater core flushed, and new coolant added. The other day after this, it got so hot it shut down. I had it towed, they changed oil, and put another thermostat in, but it is still doing same thing. Help, very low funding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4289" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T14:52:46.747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T04:23:15.343" Title="My 2003 Impala blows some heat and then cold" Tags="|heater|overheating|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T15:34:46.020" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T15:34:46.020" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:34:46.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T15:34:46.020" Score="0" Body="Acronym for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. It is a smog device which diverts spent exhaust gases back into the intake tract to help limit temperatures in the combustion chamber. The main purpose was to help reduce NOx emissions." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T16:36:42.417" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T16:36:42.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5672" CreationDate="2014-01-09T15:50:00.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of European cars of late have not included a spare wheel - however, this trend has changed and a number of car manufacturers are being forced by their user base to supply spare tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning behind the lack of a spare tire is that it decreases weight in the vehicle, thus improving the MPG when going for official testing - the MPG and emissions are a very big deal for the European market. The lack of a spare tire also has the lovely side effect of reducing the cost to the manufacturer as they can simply supply you with a pump and a &quot;can of goo&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car that I bought was supplied with a &quot;can of goo&quot; that you use with the compressor / air pump to inflate the tire. There are two large downsides to this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;can of goo&quot; expires, and needs to be replaced every 3 years (in my case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;CANNOT&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;MUST NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; use the goo when there is a hole or rip in the sidewall of the tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solution, one that I use myself, is to get a large can of TyreWeld (or similar, pressurized liquid latex) and keep it in the boot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:50:00.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8434" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:41:05.273" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:41:05.273" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:41:05.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8435" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:41:05.273" Score="0" Body="Ford Motor Company mid-sized sedan produced from 1994 to 2000." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:10:42.450" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:10:42.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:50:24.077" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:50:24.077" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:50:24.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:50:24.077" Score="0" Body="Sedan produced by the Toyota Corporation from 1966 to present. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:10:31.543" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:10:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8438" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:52:19.193" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:52:19.193" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:52:19.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:52:19.193" Score="0" Body="Device on motor vehicles which allows a vehicle, once set, to maintain speed without driver intervention." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:10:38.513" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:10:38.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:56:11.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:56:11.567" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:56:11.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:56:11.567" Score="0" Body="Vehicle platform produced by the Ford Motor Corporation from 1986 to 2007. This platform includes the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Lincoln Continental, and Ford Windstar. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:10:48.607" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:10:48.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:06:29.873" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:06:29.873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:06:29.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:06:29.873" Score="0" Body="When dealing with motor vehicles, usually refers to a business which sells/purchases vehicles to/from the public." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:11:06.967" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:11:06.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:11:19.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:11:19.983" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:11:19.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8445" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:11:19.983" Score="0" Body="Vehicle platform produced by the General Motors Corporation from 2004 to 2010. Included such models as the Chevrolet Cobalt and HHR, Pontiac G5, Astra, and the Opel Zafira." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:13:35.510" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:13:35.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8446" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:26:28.023" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:26:28.023" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:26:28.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:26:28.023" Score="0" Body="The group of components in a motor vehicle that generate power and deliver it to the road surface. These components can include the engine, transmission or transaxle, transfer case (if so equipped), drive line, and axles." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:37:47.257" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:37:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8448" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:48:55.237" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T18:48:55.237" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:48:55.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:48:55.237" Score="0" Body="General Motors trademark referring to a series of emissions technologies that were implemented into a range of engines produced for GM vehicles. These are both gasoline (petrol) and diesel engines. ECOTEC equates to &quot;Emissions Control Optimization TEChnology&quot;." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:28:37.780" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:28:37.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:01:35.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:01:35.293" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:01:35.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:01:35.293" Score="0" Body="Catch all tag which can refer to the &quot;brain&quot; of the car which can control the engine and/or transmission of the vehicle. This would include such terms as PCM (powertrain control module), ECM (engine control module), PCU (powertrain control unit), ECU (engine control unit), and many, many others." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:28:29.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:28:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8452" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:06:33.223" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:06:33.223" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:06:33.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:06:33.223" Score="0" Body="Division of the Chrysler Group, which is a subsidiary of Fiat S. p. A." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:28:40.607" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:28:40.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:12:54.310" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:12:54.310" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:12:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8455" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:12:54.310" Score="0" Body="Model of automobile produced by Hyundai, a South Korean manufacturing company, from 1990 to present. Known as the Avante in South Korea. Formerly known as the Lantra in other parts of the world." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:28:33.653" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:28:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:37:43.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cooling System Diagram&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNHPT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNHPT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:20:11.350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:20:11.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:37:43.830" Score="0" Body="System which removes excess heat from liquid cooled internal combustion engine. It also helps maintain the engine temperature at a consistent level. The cooling system encompasses the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, heater core, overflow reservoir, and anti-freeze (or coolant). " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:44:24.387" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:44:24.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:46:26.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An image of corrosion.  In this case a ferrous metal is undergoing oxidation that creates iron oxide&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZaDrS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZaDrS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:02:53.147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:02:53.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:46:26.957" Score="0" Body="Slow deterioration of metal parts where the metal is worn away by an electro-chemical reaction called oxidation that is formed when combining exposed metal, oxygen, and electrolyte (eg acids, salts, moisture).&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T22:18:08.443" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T22:18:08.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T22:01:44.030" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the following error msgs from my Volvo S40 and the car wont start.&#xA;- Immobilizer :  check manual&#xA;as I tried to start the car,  I got :&#xA;- System service required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this entail and what's required on me to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4291" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T01:01:37.360" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T01:05:52.647" Title="Volvo S40 Immobilizer Problem" Tags="|troubleshooting|volvo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-01-10T01:06:06.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:31:51.267" Score="2" ViewCount="1434" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 BMW X3 won't start after extremely cold weather. I replaced the battery and tried starting with spare key. The engine turns over but still won't start. It was running fine before cold weather. Any ideas on anything else I can try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4292" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T11:09:52.870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T11:09:52.870" Title="2005 BMW X3 Cranks won't run" Tags="|battery|bmw|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8461" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:41:31.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your air intake temperature sensor (IAT) or coolant temperature sensor may be faulty or shorted to ground. The computer calculates the fuel delivery based on the outside temperature. Cold air is denser and requires more fuel. If the computer thinks it's 90 degrees outside when it's cold it won't deliver enough fuel to start the car. If you have a scan tool that will read live data you can check to see if the sensors are reading correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T01:41:31.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T19:44:57.813" Score="6" ViewCount="13997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Same engine as the Toyota Matrix.  The heat blows fine but isn't warm enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the antifreeze and the level is fine and there are no leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose into the heater core is hot.  The out hose is fairly warm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat is warmer when moving than when idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High is counter productive.  The heat is only semi helpful when the blower is on low or just above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what to do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the thermostat?&#xA;The engine never overheats, seems to get up to temperature, but it took a long time to do it the other night when it was 8 degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flush the heater core?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Backflush the heater core to clean it of debris and make sure that it has decent flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the next steps in troubleshooting this problem?  What have I missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4294" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T10:52:00.727" Title="Help with heat issue with pontiac vibe (toyota matrix)" Tags="|toyota|pontiac|heat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8466" CreationDate="2014-01-10T23:23:02.213" Score="6" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2004 Mazda 3.  This happened with the last battery I had as well as this newer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically if I leave the car sitting for 2-3 days without driving it, it doesn't have the voltage to start and I need to trickle-charge or boost it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently took a multi-meter to it after driving it then letting it sit for a few hours - 12.1 V.  Not fantastic, but good enough to get the job done.  I used the ammeter function to test for parasitic draw and found less than 50mA being drawn (if I remember right it was 16mA or possibly 1.6mA.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm stumped.  Sure, it could be a bad batt, but this happened with the last batt I had too.  It doesn't make sense to me that there doesn't appear to be a parasitic draw yet the thing drains after two to three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T21:22:41.000" Title="Battery voltage slightly low. Especially when the car's been sitting for a while" Tags="|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T23:34:19.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Honda Accord EX (Automatic) - Loses all electrical power while traveling (speed doesn't seem to be an issue; loses power at slow (turning corner) or fast (highway) speeds. Flashers come on when car loses electrical power &amp;amp; power steering loses power. Get car off the road, put it in park, and try to restart. Will restart after 3-4 tries, but clicks (starter?) when cranking starter. Has done this today half a dozen times. Is in shop right now, but would like a second opinion. Battery is about 5 yrs old. Alternator? Computer chip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4295" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T13:49:03.510" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T19:56:19.797" Title="Honda Loses All Power, but Starts Back Up" Tags="|honda|electrical|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8464" CreationDate="2014-01-10T23:42:10.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't it's a bad battery. I would have the battery tested too, before doing the test, most parts stores will do it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, if there is unwanted resistance the battery won't be fully charged by the alternator and could cause similar issues. If the battery is not fully charged a normal parasitic draw may cause you to have to jump it after a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;See my answer here on how you can test the battery yourself&lt;/a&gt;, however in your case it may be better to use one of the electronic testers available at you local parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T21:22:41.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8463" CreationDate="2014-01-11T02:36:21.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the heater hose is hot going into the core, this means there is flow through it. If it wasn't getting flow through it, it wouldn't get very hot ... warm, maybe, but not hot. My suggestion here is it may be the blend door which is not functioning correctly. If you are unsure what the blend door is, it's the piece inside next to the HVAC unit which directs air through the heater core or by the AC coils (hot or cold blending to get your desired temp). Some blend doors are connected directly to the dash switch, while others are actuated by a motor. Not sure which way it is on yours, but you should check this as your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T02:36:21.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8463" CreationDate="2014-01-11T02:40:42.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is warm, the air flow through the heater core is off, and one side of the heater core isn't burning hot like the other, then there's a good chance your heater core has debris in it causing it to block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your thermostat was stuck open, there's a good chance the engine wouldn't be able to come up to temperature especially on a cold day. If it's stuck closed then it would overheat. Since that's not happening, there's a good chance the core is blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to try to flush/backflush it with a garden hose or something, make sure you don't use too much pressure, or you'll blow out the heater core, especially if it's blocked. I might use a gravity feed - a hose from the bottom of a full bucket, like an IV drip but bigger :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flushing it might be the best diagnostic - you should be able to tell if it's blocked or not if your gravity feed doesn't get much flow in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you're done, make sure you flush out any air bubbles that might be in the coolant loop. Tip the front of the engine up (park uphill or such), pop the radiator cap off (careful if its hot!) and run the engine, keeping a close eye on the engine temp. Add fluid if/when your reservoir starts to get low as it fills in any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some tips on what to do, and what not to do, this jackass makes a pretty good show of clearing a blocked heater core:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4296" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T02:40:42.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2014-01-11T06:35:48.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some anecdotal evidence.  I downshift at least a few times a day.  Only one gear at a time and never send my tach anywhere near the red, BUT I NEVER RIDE THE CLUTCH.  Unless it is an emergency I'll downshift and come off the clutch almost as quickly as I do when I upshift, If I'm going to fast for this I don't downshift yet, UNLESS IT'S AN EMERGENCY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok all that being said here's my anecdotal evidence.  I have 180000 miles on my pontiac vibe and from what I hear the clutch goes on average around 90k.  Mines still going strong.  I'll regret posting this if it goes tomorrow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4294" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T06:35:48.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23528" CreationDate="2014-01-11T17:16:06.457" Score="3" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've been hearing a whining noise from the engine bay. After checking, it seems to come from the valve cover. I've checked the motor oil; level seems ok although the oil is black but not smelly. There´s no white foam in the oil either. It is about a year ago (c:a 13000 kilometers) since I changed oil and oil-filter. The car is a Nissan Primera P11 hatchback with CVT automatic gearbox. The whining noise is there all the time, already at idle revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4297" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T04:03:41.163" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T11:32:39.383" Title="Whining noise from valve cover region, Nissan Primera P11 1999" Tags="|oil|nissan|primera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8470" CreationDate="2014-01-11T17:32:59.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your engine is oil starved due to how old/dirty your oil is (mileage). The first thing you need to do is get your engine flushed, then quickly followed by an oil change (with filter). 13000km (or ~8000 miles) is quite a bit to put on an oil change/filter. I would bet your owners manual probably says to change it every 5000km. Smaller engines cannot run as long as larger engines, mainly due to the fact they don't carry as much oil in them. I would bet, your engine probably holds about 4 liters of oil (4 quarts, whatever). Newer cars which allow their engines to run 8-10k miles between services have between 8-10 quarts of oil. Hopefully this will help your engine noises; hopefully the lack of engine service has not done your engine permanent damage, but chances are the damage is already done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T17:32:59.800" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-11T20:35:46.157" Score="4" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the rating scale change in time? I mean if X stars from for example 2000 are less safe car than X stars from 2013? I am mostly interested in adult safety within frontal (and side) impact and the ability to compare these ratings between various dates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T10:11:32.610" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T10:11:32.610" Title="Euro NCAP rating during time" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8491" CreationDate="2014-01-11T23:50:39.073" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine won't start but turns over.  4 cyl with 8 spark plugs all eight produce no spark while cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 1989 ford ranger xlt 2wd 4 cyl.  During the crazy cold spell here in northern Kentucky it wouldn't start and I attributed it to a bad battery(which was bad).  I have changed the battery and the temperatures have returned to their normal 30 - 40 F range but the truck still won't start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked to see if the timing was good.  No problems there.&#xA;&lt;s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank sensor/Harmonic balancer. Everything checked out.&lt;/s&gt; &lt;b&gt;assumption was wrong&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All not-inline fuses. Both panels in the cab and under the hood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested the ignition control module.(bench tested)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel system(inertial switch , pump, starting fluid...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not went through and checked all of the inline fuses for continuity.  Does anyone have any leads on what may be causing this and possibly a fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4299" LastEditorUserId="4299" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T12:41:04.310" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T12:41:04.310" Title="No spark either side" Tags="|ford|starting|ignition|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-12T00:15:26.110" Score="1" ViewCount="2176" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Chevy Malibu has been surging for the past 2 years. The transmission has been checked, I had just replaced the catalitic converter around the same time the car started surging. I took off the MAF and the car stopped surging but it rode rough. I replaced the MAF and the car still surges. It starts to surge after a right turn, after it goes over a speed bump, after it goes over a dip. It surges going up hill, it starts to surge when the car comes to a sudden stop or after I slam on the brakes. And now it even starts to surge when I'm just driving straight down the road and I excelerate. I put the OBD2 machine on it but it does not have any codes(DTC'S) on it. Please help, I don't know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4271" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T20:59:09.773" Title="What can I do to get my car to stop surging?" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|surging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8477" CreationDate="2014-01-12T08:39:48.213" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wire contact connected to the Coolant Temperature Sensor of my Mercedes OM636 (Boat engine same as Mercedes 170D, 180D) was corroded and got accidentally snapped off. Can I just solder this back on and and therefore save the £42 for a new Coolant Temperature Sensor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4300" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:28:18.180" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:28:18.180" Title="Mercedes OM636: Can I Resolder Wire to Coolant Temperature Sensor?" Tags="|electrical|coolant|mercedes-benz|sensor|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2014-01-12T09:10:32.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do change over time. Initially NCAP was more focused on the safety on people inside the car, but these days there's also a focus on the safety of people you may drive into. I can't recall the exact year, but it was around the time cars' noses seemed to be more slanted and to dip lower that the NCAP test also started focusing on cars having to NOT run over pedestrians if they knock them, but rather scoop them up and deposit them on the bonnet. If your car scored a 3.5 the previous year, but it didn't perform well in the pedestrian test, you'd probably only get 3 stars this time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IN light of this, there may also be other things that change, either becoming MORE or LESS important. Like ABS and EBD for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.euroncap.com/files/Euro-NCAP-Side-Protocol-Version-6.0---0-b02e5bb8-1706-490f-a339-d8baee4fb404.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I found this text online which may help answer a lot of questions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T12:21:35.840" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T12:21:35.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8475" CreationDate="2014-01-12T14:45:28.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think you should be able to if there is a terminal for the wire to attach to. If the terminal has broke off at the base of the sensor, then it probably won't work. I would use a soldering iron, versus open flame type of iron to ensure the heat is more localized. If you are worried about the sensor not working due to the heat, I don't think I would worry about it too much. Think of it this way, if it doesn't work after you reconnect it, it needed replaced anyway. It will cost you nothing but a little bit of time and solder to try it. If it works, you're golden. If it doesn't, you aren't out much for trying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T14:45:28.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2014-01-12T23:38:53.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kgjR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T23:38:53.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T04:09:50.110" Score="4" ViewCount="13692" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend keeps saying that you should not use handbrake during the cold weather and use the gear 1 to keep car in place: if you set the handbrake on, it may freeze and get poor. Then again the friend says that you can use the handbrake during driving in short stops. Handbrake here has only some basic metallic ropes connected to rear wheels, apparently also to the front wheels. Now I cannot understand why handbrake could not be used during winter -- I think that the key is that the handbrake cable is well lubricated before installation so it will last longer. But I cannot understand why the handbrake cannot be used while stopped for a longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should handbrake be used during very cold winter or not?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3252" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T19:28:54.437" Title="Handbrake during cold winter between -50 Celcius and 0 Celcius? Should it be used or not?" Tags="|winter|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8485" CreationDate="2014-01-13T04:51:58.700" Score="7" ViewCount="20540" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bW71V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The windshield washer fluid tank on my Toyota Corolla has a C-shaped crack in the bottom. I removed the tank and drained it. Is there a reliable way to patch/fix this without having to buy a new tank? (I'm thinking of trying to patch the crack with silicone caulk.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="455" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T07:24:18.103" Title="Can I patch a hole in washer fluid tank?" Tags="|leak|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8512" CreationDate="2014-01-13T05:26:22.733" Score="3" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little background: I live in Canada and recently I drove over a crater on a public road (60km max city road), which I assumed was caused by the recent extreme cold weather. It was night time and there were water on the road from melted snow. The crater wasn't big and very visible, but it's deep enough to cause serious damage to one of my tires and I barely made it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I went to an auto shop (Canadian Tire for all you Canadians) but they said the damage was beyond repair and I had to replace it for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get to the specific of my tire repair before I take it to the dealership. How do I tell if a tire is irreparable, besides the obvious signs such as completely blown holes? And to be more specific, what kinds of tire damage are reparable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4303" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T14:33:48.000" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:38:26.770" Title="&quot;Irreparable&quot; tire damage incurred due to road pothole" Tags="|maintenance|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2014-01-13T06:12:44.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely possible. My choice for a repair like this would be JB Weld, but I would think lots of products would do fine, though I'd be skeptical of any kind of caulk that's not going to bond tightly to the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T06:12:44.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8489" CreationDate="2014-01-13T07:36:54.723" Score="2" ViewCount="18840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased The Club for my car (as it is a target for thieves) and I'm unclear on how to put it in. It says to turn the steering wheel one full rotation before putting it on, however, my cars steering wheel locks automatically when the keys aren't in the ignition. So I'm wondering if its necessary to turn the steering wheel before putting on The Club?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4304" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:26:30.647" Title="Proper use of The Club?" Tags="|ignition|locks|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2014-01-13T08:07:36.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed a leak in my coolant tank (which is the exact same plastic) using a few strips of plastic* cut from a spray bottle I bought at a hardware store. You can either use a heat gun or a soldering iron to melt the plastic into place. Just be careful of burning the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_Fkhz2G9Is&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video is a good guide.&lt;/a&gt; Even though it's a much larger tank, the technique is exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*polyethylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T07:24:18.103" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T07:24:18.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8484" CreationDate="2014-01-13T10:21:22.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your car already has a built-in steering wheel lock so The Club would have no benefit other than a visual deterrent and in that case it wouldn't matter how you put it on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T10:21:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8479" CreationDate="2014-01-13T10:50:58.913" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is likely to be left for any length of time (i.e. several days), or the brakes are in poor condition, then yes, it could stick on, but under normal circumstances it shouldn't do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should ensure that your brakes are well serviced, and that the handbrake linkages on the rear drums/calipers are well lubricated and move freely - be sure to use a grease that will withstand the low temperatures, but make sure you don't get any on/near the friction surfaces...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the car in gear when parked (1st normally, reverse if you're facing down a steep hill) is generally good practice, and even more so in cold weather - the brakes are warm when you stop, and as they cool, the various moving parts will contract, which can lead to the handbrake failing to hold the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the handbrake while stationary in traffic is also good practice - it stops your brake lights dazzling the car behind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T10:50:58.913" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8484" CreationDate="2014-01-13T11:25:36.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea of turning the wheel is to have the wheels turned to prevent movement of the car. After you park, turn the wheel prior to shutting off the car. I would suggest turning them towards the curb. If the ignition is removed by the thief the wheel will be unlocked. If the wheels were straight he would be able to drive the car albeit only in a straight line. With the wheels turned, the Club prevent the wheels being straightened and the thief can only drive into the curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:25:36.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8484" CreationDate="2014-01-13T11:26:30.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of turning the wheel one turn is to put the wheels at a cant (other than straight). This is especially important on standard shift vehicles so it cannot just be put into neutral and moved. It just gives one more weapon in the arsenal against car thieves. The action of applying the club should be, before you turn the ignition off, turn the steering wheel one turn. Then put the club on the steering wheel so it is visible to all. As CodeBlend said, the club is a visual deterrent, but it is one more thing a thief must go through before they can actually steal a car. While the steering wheel lock and the club have the same basic purpose (to keep the wheel from turning), it does help with security. If you are in a high theft area, a thief will usually go for the easier target. With the club on your vehicle, you've just made your car a little harder to steal. If, however, you have a vehicle which is target of thieves, it won't really matter how you secure your vehicle: if it is wanted, they will find a way to take it. The best way to protect these types of vehicles is to keep them in a garage. The axiom &quot;&lt;em&gt;Out of sight, out of mind&lt;/em&gt;&quot; holds true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No security option is fool proof. Some are better than others, but if a thief wants your vehicle, they will find a way. This is one purpose of insurance (but that's another thread, in and of itself!). The key to the validity of the Club (as well as any other anti-theft measure) is to ensure you are using it &lt;em&gt;each and every time&lt;/em&gt; you leave your vehicle. If you don't employ it, it will never work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:26:30.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5389" CreationDate="2014-01-13T11:57:07.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After about 36 hours on a gentle charge from the mains I put the battery back in the car and it started and I drove it for 2 hours. Then I left it overnight and it started again, so hopefully it'll be ok&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2765" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:57:07.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8473" CreationDate="2014-01-13T12:31:07.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad crank sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well,  it turns out that the 2nd bullet on my list of things not wrong was incorrect.  I had &quot;assumed&quot; that the crank sensor was fine because I had just put a new one in not 3 months ago with a brand new harmonic balancer.  Plus it looked perfect as far as a visual inspection.  No odd wear or corrosion just a little soot built up on the magnets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without much else to go on, I pulled the crank sensor and swapped it out for a new one since it was under warranty.  It fired right up yesterday and seems to be running fine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4299" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T12:31:07.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:38:21.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full sized pick-up truck produced by the Ford Motor Company in the United States. The F-series pick-up has been produced from 1948 to present. This vehicle has gone through twelve (12) model changes through the 2014 model year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:27.077" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:27.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:38:21.243" Score="0" Body="A Ford pick-up, commonly referred to as a 1/2 ton." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:22.060" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:22.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8494" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:40:28.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full sized pick-up truck produced by the Ford Motor Company in the United States. The F-series pick-up has been produced from 1948 to present. This vehicle has gone through twelve (12) model changes through the 2014 model year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:04.713" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:04.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:40:28.923" Score="0" Body="A Ford pick-up, commonly referred to as a 3/4 ton." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:29.717" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:29.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:41:45.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full sized pick-up truck produced by the Ford Motor Company in the United States. The F-series pick-up has been produced from 1948 to present. This vehicle has gone through twelve (12) model changes through the 2014 model year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:18.903" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:18.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:41:45.817" Score="0" Body="A Ford pick-up, commonly referred to as a 1 ton." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:21:16.123" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:21:16.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8397" CreationDate="2014-01-13T15:22:40.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Diesel&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone put diesel into the tank of a gasoline/petrol engined car, you can expect an expensive repair may be necessary. However you would probably have noticed the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/fuels-and-environment/misfuelling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AA&lt;/a&gt; (not the one you might be thinking of)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sugar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar does not dissolve in gasoline, so the main effect might be clogging of the fuel filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/1587/does-putting-sugar-in-the-gas-tank-wreck-a-cars-engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Straight dope&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto sand, this is heaver so is perhaps likely to mostly remain in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastEditorUserId="1751" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T15:28:21.613" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T15:28:21.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8502" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:45:06.453" Score="4" ViewCount="4501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I snapped one of the lug nut studs on the front wheel hub on my 2003 Honda Civic in half when trying to get the nut off, but there was enough of the stud left that I bought a new nut and put it on. Because it's on a front hub, the replacement is going to be expensive since the hub has to be taken apart. Do I need to get the stud replaced, or is it fine to use it like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastEditorUserId="1725" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T16:50:17.480" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:57:45.323" Title="Does a snapped in half lug nut stud need to be replaced if a nut still goes on?" Tags="|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:46:20.663" Score="8" ViewCount="48558" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2000 Toyota Sienna, the driver's side power window behaves strangely. The window rolls down just fine. However, when closing it, it begins rolling up in the normal rate, but half-way up gets slower until completely stops. I then wait some time and able to continue the roll-up some more - and repeat this sequence until it is completely closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can think of it as if I &quot;charge&quot; the window motor's very &quot;small&quot; battery, which depletes on the way up. Then repeatedly allow it to &quot;re-charge&quot; and get depleted again while gradually rolling up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this behaviour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What part do I need to replace/service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="3328" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T19:26:47.730" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T08:22:05.383" Title="Slow power window problem" Tags="|toyota|power-windows|sienna|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8500" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:57:45.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this good video of how to do it without removing the hub/knuckle assembly from the vehicle. This is definitely one of those vehicles which engineers did not plan very well. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/a1w5nktjGJU&quot;&gt;Here's the video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;. In case it is ever removed, here are the steps involved (follow safety protocols):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the tire, brake caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clock the hub so the broken/stripped stud is positioned where the caliper would be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a hammer, punch the broken/stripped stud until loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a hacksaw or sawzall and cut the back side of the stud off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the new stud and create a flat spot on the head using a grinder or file, being careful not to mess with the splines on the stud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the area behind where the stud will slip into the hub (you may also need to bend the rotor shield slightly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the stud in from behind the hub, placing the flat spot on the head towards the knuckle assembly (further adjustments to the area may be needed, apply as necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the splines on the stud match up with the splines on the hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As suggested in the comments take a few washers (or a large nut) and a stud and draw the stud into the hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble the brakes and tire &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue why designers/engineers don't make little things like this easy. If you take everything apart (hub) to replace the stud, you'd also need to put a new wheel bearing in there, because it would be destroyed in the process. As pointed out, there is a way to do this, just not as easy as was originally suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:57:45.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8501" CreationDate="2014-01-13T19:09:49.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your window motor and/or regulator is going out. What happens is, the window motors have a thermal trip which tells them to stop when they get too hot. As a vehicle gets older, the window regulator and slides don't slide/move as well, so creates a lot more friction. The window motor starts wearing out because of this and more heat is produced, thus shutting down the motor. When it sits for a little while, the motor then cools down, thermal trips back to good, and you can then push the button and the window continues on its way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T19:09:49.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T19:25:25.803" Score="6" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Ford Mustang V6. Bought brand new battery in Nov 2013. I tested the core of the alternator at the same time as buying the battery and it tested good. I also switched out a relay in the engine to see if that would help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can jump start the car but it still will not hold the charge after turning the car off. any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user35516" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T22:09:16.837" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T03:21:48.543" Title="Battery won't hold a charge. 2001 Ford Mustang" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T21:17:06.330" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Mazda Protege.  Left for 3 weeks, came back and car is sputtering.  Was very cold while sitting, below 0 at times.  Ethenol in gas doesn't seem to be helping.  Could there be condensation elsewhere?  Car was just fine before trip.&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4308" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:05:43.843" Title="Sputtering Mazda" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T09:20:40.647" Score="1" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Jimny 2007 model. When I drive at 80 kmh, the whole car shakes violently. It has the same vibration when the speed comes back untill 50. I spoke to my garage guy and as he said I polished my king pins. After some time the same vibration started again. I could not find the reason for this problem from any of the garage guys. Can anyone help me with this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4312" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T02:40:00.270" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T02:40:00.270" Title="When I drive at 80 kmh the whole car shakes violently" Tags="|suzuki|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8507" CreationDate="2014-01-14T09:32:17.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually caused by a worn shock absorber or a broken control arm. My guess is the shock absorber. How old is the car and how many miles/kilometers has it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T09:32:17.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8507" CreationDate="2014-01-14T10:10:18.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a Jimny, then this is sadly expected. There are stories of people replacing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/7-jimny-technical/385-bad-vibration-solved&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gearbox mount&lt;/a&gt; to resolve the issue, however I never got that far with my Jimny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had replaced a number of bushings, got an alignment, and new alloy wheels, however the shaking was still there - just far less pronounced. Like you, the vibrations were fairly violent at high speeds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T10:10:18.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8513" CreationDate="2014-01-14T11:22:11.143" Score="7" ViewCount="7463" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Toyota Camry wouldn't unlock this evening.  If I turned the key to the &quot;lock&quot; position, it seems to lock OK, but it won't turn at all in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to break in to the car, but then after a short drive home the doors spontaneously locked.  Any time I tried to unlock them by hand, they would lock again immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It felt somewhat like my car was trying to trap me inside.  Does this sound like a Central Locking issue?  Electrics?  Security System?  I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4314" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T10:39:36.050" Title="Why won't my car unlock? Why does it spontaneously lock itself?" Tags="|toyota|locks|camry|security|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8481" CreationDate="2014-01-14T14:38:26.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the only damage to a tyre that can be repaired is small holes in the tread (e.g. something caused by a nail) - these can be plugged. Any damage to the sidewall is usually un-repairable, as are any large gashes in the tread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:38:26.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8510" CreationDate="2014-01-14T14:43:53.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the lock on your driver's door is stuck (leading to the first symptom), which has led to it constantly sending the &quot;lock&quot; signal to the central locking, causing the second symptom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get the door open, you should be able to disconnect the central locking wiring from the lock to stop it locking the other doors, then investigate why it is sticking - it might be as simple as one of the control rods working loose. You'll have to remove the inside door trim to get to it, which is usually held on with several small screws and a set of clips around the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:43:53.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9058" CreationDate="2014-01-14T22:05:10.173" Score="9" ViewCount="43985" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife was just rear-ended by some woman who was &quot;tired&quot; (her claim&amp;mdash;in fact she was more probably texting) and not paying attention.  This did a lot of damage to the rear end of our Honda Pilot.  This is the third accident my wife has been in in a year where someone else was not paying attention, and I want to take some preventative action.  Grill guards (and rear bumper guards—I'm using the term generically since a search for &quot;grill guards&quot; will bring up both) give the appearance of being strong and solid pieces of metal that add extra protection for the body of your car, but I'm wondering if that appearance is deceiving.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVZrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A grill guard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D6940S0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/2009-2013-Honda-Bumper-Protector-Stainless/dp/B00D6940S0&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D30S970&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Bumper-Mounting-Hardware-included/dp/B00D30S970&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason for my skepticism is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/2004-honda-pilot-grill-guards/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the blurb here&lt;/a&gt;, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Honda Pilot 2004, 2.5&quot; Ultimate Bull Bar by Westin®, with Removable&#xA;  Stainless Steel Skid Plate. The secret of living a peaceful life in&#xA;  the asphalt jungle is to add a scary edge to your looks. The Ultimate&#xA;  Bull Bar is perfect for the purpose....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that they focus exclusively on the appearance and do not even address the issue of structural protection leads me to believe perhaps they know it's all a facade, and are carefully avoiding making any claims they know could come back to haunt them, so they sell it as a way of massaging their customers' egos rather than actually protecting anything or anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much protection do these actually offer?  Can they in some situations eliminate body or structural damage to your car, and in others reduce it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4318" LastEditorUserId="4318" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T16:39:12.120" LastActivityDate="2020-09-18T14:02:40.820" Title="How much protection do grill guards give?" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-15T04:56:06.890" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is still good and the motor will keep running when you disconnect a terminal. Can my alternator be bad? If not I'm also thinking a dead short? What is the best way to find out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4320" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T09:11:29.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T17:25:22.423" Title="89 jeep cherokee will run but when i turn it off and try to restart it the battery is dead" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2014-01-15T08:27:26.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They definitely offer protection against light and moderate accidents. So if it's for city driving, I'd say go ahead and get one. Just remember that putting something on the front of your car won't make any sort of difference if you get rear-ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T08:27:26.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2014-01-15T11:30:02.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you are not making connection to the battery (maybe this is what you mean by &quot;dead short&quot;?). I would look at your contact points ... both sides of the battery, ground, and starter to ensure you are making &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; contact. If you have side posts (assuming you do), these have a tendency of not making complete contact even when tightened. Make sure there isn't any rust or corrosion at the ground point causing interference. If you can disconnect a terminal, the alternator is still putting out juice. You can also put a multi-meter on it to test its output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you say the battery is dead, do you mean you turn the ignition off, then go to turn it back on and ... nothing? Or does your dome light/radio turn on? Do accessories die when you turn the key or dead from the start? If you have dome lights which die when you turn the key, it's the connection at the battery as described above. If you turn the key, still have dome lights and nothing happens, it could be your starter solenoid or your ignition switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T17:25:22.423" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T17:25:22.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T23:20:43.940" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that it has warmed up, things are back to normal. Even my heat is back. I think that my thermostat was stuck, but can they get &quot;unstuck&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4319" OwnerDisplayName="tylerjgarland" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T19:33:59.913" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:37:54.197" Title="In the -20F temperatures last week my temperature gauge was stuck under the 1/4 mark. Heating was also affected" Tags="|cooling-system|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6664" CreationDate="2014-01-15T19:09:51.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to garner a guess on the information you've provided, it seems the solenoid on the starter is not getting energized. This could be caused from one of several different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, is the energizer wire connected to the starter solenoid? This should be the smaller wire going to the solenoid, not the large one coming from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check the relay which energizes the starter solenoid. This should be in the fuse box under the hood. When you find it, you can check it by changing it out with another relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, are you sure the starter/solenoid is good? Is there any way it could have gone bad while sitting? Stranger things have happened. If you were careful, you could apply power directly to the main power lead coming OUT of the solenoid going into the starter. The idea here is to just hit it with power to ensure the starter is working correctly. To do this, you'd have to connect a large gauge cable (probably a jumper cable) to the power lead, then briefly connecting the other end to the positive post on the battery. You could also try to energize the solenoid directly to see if it is working. If you are not comfortable doing this on the car, take the starter off first and bench test it (by far the safest option). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T19:09:51.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8534" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:46:39.183" Score="5" ViewCount="10089" Body="&lt;p&gt;My driver side door didn't like the cold weather this season so I started using the other doors, and acrobatics, to place myself in the drivers seat. Through this process I kept hitting my head on my rear view mirror until eventually it came off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is attached to the windshield:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHibn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Attached to windshield&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(bottom view)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zx9PZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom View&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear view mirror connector:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHSBG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear view mirror connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about re-attaching this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw on the mirror doesn't fit into the metal ring. The metal ring can't be bent to allow this to happen either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how to open the connector on the windshield. From what I could find online, it seems like you jam something into this and pry it open? What tool? Where exactly? Most, if not all, of the advice I can find online is about the proper way to glue this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think using a mallet might work. But I would rather not break anything or miss and break my windshield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my only option to try to scrape this thing off my windshield and buy a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4325" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T12:07:41.983" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T19:12:35.867" Title="Reattach Rear View Mirror (No Glue Required)" Tags="|kia|windshield|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:49:18.400" Score="2" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1183/78&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; a CEL code of 41 means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;charging system circuit not responding to control signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are likely causes of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T02:54:28.247" Title="CEL Code 41 on '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee" Tags="|electrical|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8526" CreationDate="2014-01-16T00:40:41.080" Score="1" ViewCount="1604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple questions about music in my 2008 Audi A4 Quattro (3.2L). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a Samsung Galaxy S3 Mini. I used to use a bluetooth media streaming app to play music and GPS navigation via the bluetooth in the car. But since I got the LG Nexus 5 I am not able to use any bluetooth streaming apps to do that now. Any ideas what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have the Ipod doc connector in the glove compartment, but I do not have Ipod, and I wanted to use my phone's AUX (headphone) jack to play music and everything else. Can anyone recommend a cable that will work for me? I am asking because I have seen some cables on Amazon, and in the pictures they have the built-in screen it says &quot;Audi Music Interface&quot;. I do not have that. I have only CD and MP3. The MP3 refers to the two SDCARDs slots I have behind the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:47:35.317" Title="2008 Audi A4 Quattro (3.2L) Ipod dock and music" Tags="|audio|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8530" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:08:30.060" Score="1" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2008 Audi A4 Quattro with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.satnavsystems.com/main/audi-a4-dvd-navigation-system-rns-e/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RNS-E Navigation System Plus&lt;/a&gt; built in. Also, I have an Ipod connector in the glove compartment. I am interested in replacing that whole system with something newer and better - and not Apple related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any compatible systems with Android based interfaces (so I can install my own apps (in my prefered navigation app)...), which can stream music via bluetooth and have the entire phone pairing feature? Also if it can get on WiFi (so I can tether to it...) it would be a bonus, and of course touchscreen, AUX, SDCARD (HC), USB... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I asking for too much? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T16:38:37.927" Title="Good (android based?) music center+nav replacement for 2008 Audi A4 Quattro?" Tags="|audio|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8528" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:25:01.070" Score="10" ViewCount="66277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra.  This morning the battery on my wireless key fob died, so I'm unable to use it to unlock the car.  From past experience, I know that unlocking the car using the physical key will set off the alarm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I turn off the alarm after unlocking the car with the physical key?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be able to replace the battery in the key fob myself, or will I have to take it to a dealer or somewhere else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4328" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:58:43.953" Title="What to do when the wireless key fob battery dies on a 2005 Hyundai Elantra" Tags="|hyundai|elantra|alarm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8518" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:37:54.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, it could have become stuck (frozen) but should have free'd up after your engine was running for a while.  In extremely cold temperatures the airflow through the engine bay is enough to cool the engine so it never warms properly.  In some places its normal to cover the radiator to block some of the airflow and help keep the engine warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://poleofcold.com/life-in-the-cold-keeping-your-engine-warm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keeping engine warm in the cold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some newer ultra efficient small capacity diesel cars (Ford Focus) have automatic grills which block the airflow until the engine is up to temperature to aid in efficiency but I would imagine they also help in extreme cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:37:54.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8522" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:47:35.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to ensure your phone is paired with your car. If that is good, you could use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/280984270467?lpid=82&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this type of adapter&lt;/a&gt; to attach it directly from your 3.5mm port on your phone to the iPod connector in your glove box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:47:35.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8524" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:54:33.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi, and the physical key sets and releases the alarm system. So it should not set the alarm if you use the key to open the doors. Did you actually try to unlock the car with the key and it sets the alarm off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my battery dies, and the FOB is disconnected from the car I have to plug the key into the slot, and turn the car on/off (not the engine though) five times and then the key is reprogrammed with the car. For &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYIn9AlBpx0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2005 Hyundai Tiburon&lt;/a&gt;, the instructions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get in car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close doors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn key to ACC. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold open button down on&#xA;remote, until blinkers flash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the battery is really simple. You can use a flathead screw driver, and be gentle and it should be easy. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDTFRW6uYes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; shows how to do it. It should be fairly easy. DO NOT go to the dealer... They will charge you way too much for it, and then will find something wrong with your motor as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:54:33.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8524" CreationDate="2014-01-16T16:02:39.097" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alarm Stage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The alarm will be activated if any of the following occurs while the&#xA;  car is parked and the system is armed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A front or rear door is opened without using the transmitter or the ignition key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The trunk lid or tail gate is opened without using the transmitter or the ignition key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The hood is opened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The siren will sound and the turn signal lights will blink&#xA;  continuously for about 30 seconds (This will repeat 3 times). To turn&#xA;  off the system, unlock the door or trunk lid/tail gate using the&#xA;  transmitter or the ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disarmed Stage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The system will be disarmed by using the transmitter or the ignition&#xA;  key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the way that reads it seems that opening the door with the ignition key won't make the alarm go off. In my experience it means if you use the ignition key to turn on the ignition it  will disarm the alarm. Most cars I am familiar with will do some type of pre-warning when the door is unlocked using the key, and if the ignition key is used to start the vehicle within x number of seconds the alarm will not go off. Even if it goes off in your case try starting the car and that may silence the alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as battery replacement the owners manual also addresses that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacing the battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the transmitter's battery becomes, it may take several pushes on&#xA;  the button to lock or unlock the doors, and the LED will not light.&#xA;  Replace the battery as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Battery type : CR2032&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replacement instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXoYD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carefully separate the case with a blade screwdriver as shown in the illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEoAT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the old battery from the case and note the polarity. Make sure the polarity of the new battery is the same (+side facing down),&#xA;  then insert it in the transmitter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note unlike the Audi you will &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; have to reprogram your remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T16:35:37.477" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T16:35:37.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8524" CreationDate="2014-01-16T16:06:00.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these instructions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hyundai-forums.com/197-i30-elantra-touring-forum/103647-key-fob-battery-replacement.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CKxJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the instructions, the battery is a simple CR2032 battery, found anywhere you can find batteries (like Wal-Mart, or whatever). If there is a second transmitter, use it. If not, you can try opening the door with the key, then using the key in the ignition. This works in some vehicles, but once the alarm is hit, you know the deal. If you don't want to try this, you can probably find another battery around your house to use for the mean time, such as in a different key fob or in an unused computer (in the motherboard). This will get you by until you can get a new battery for your fob. When you pull the battery out of your fob, you will not lose the code or need to have the fob reprogrammed. It is made to stay paired, fob with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T16:06:00.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8523" CreationDate="2014-01-16T16:38:37.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio/AppRadio+3+(SPH-DA210)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio/AppRadio+3+(SPH-DA210)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spent a bit of time looking at this head unit, which lets you plug in your iPod/iPhone and also supports Android (you could just buy a cheap Android phone if you don't already have one). Not quite a native Android unit but I think is fairly close to the mark and on it's 3rd revision I think it's a good bit of kit although I have only played with a demo in Halfords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the subject specifically of navigation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.appradioknows.com/navigation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.appradioknows.com/navigation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T16:38:37.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-16T16:59:04.280" Score="11" ViewCount="46180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi A4 with approximately 35k miles. My dealership has recommended that I replace both the brake pads and the rotors and helpfully forwarded a picture to me of the rotors indicating the rust around the edges. My understanding from doing a bit of research is that the rust itself is nothing to worry about and the surface area of the rotors do not appear bad at a glance... but I'm no expert. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bI8Ql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rim of rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4329" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:06:22.080" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T00:17:24.073" Title="Should rotors with rust on the rims but not the faces be replaced along with the pads?" Tags="|brake-rotor|rust|audi|a4|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2014-01-16T19:36:25.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That isn't mostly rust buildup. That is the edge of the rotor that your pads don't touch. If it feels raised then that just shows you how worn your rotor is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not always need to replace rotors with pads, but it looks like you'll be replacing them next time at the latest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a rotor split while driving home from 6 hours away. When it cracked I was riving 60mph on a State Road, the crack seized the rotor when it caught on my pads. My rear tire locked instantaneously on a double lane, driving 60mph. Sliding through traffic isn't fun, and neither is changing rotors on the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about money, call your dealer and tell them that you want them to use lifetime warranty parts. I they don't have any lifetime warranty rotors, tell them you will provide them with some. You can get them at any auto parts store and they don't cost much more. Autozone charges me $2 extra per lifetime warrantied part.&#xA;Then when it naturally wears out, they'll replace it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, changing rotors is literally one of the easiest tasks to do on a car, it's definitely one of the simplest. You can do it yourself if you want to save some money, but do it right after getting the pads or you'll sacrifice some of the pads life as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4330" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T19:36:25.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15316" CreationDate="2014-01-16T19:36:51.517" Score="5" ViewCount="6132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days. Any advice?? Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4331" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:09:14.970" Title="Jetta intermittent starting problem" Tags="|electrical|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8520" CreationDate="2014-01-16T22:50:33.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that the grayish colored piece slides onto the black baseplate. It appears to be held in place by the three dimples fitting into a detent. I would insert a small screwdriver between the two humps shown in the first photo. With a twisting motion see if the gray plate slides toward the dash. You may have to try several size screwdrivers to find a size that is small enough fit in the gap and large enough to pry with. Once the gray plate is off, push  the screw through the plate and screw it in to the mirror arm. A little thread lock will prevent it from coming loose. Then slide the gray plate back over the base until it snaps in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T22:50:33.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8536" CreationDate="2014-01-16T23:35:44.727" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 gmc 3500 cube van  when heater fan is on and in cold position it blowes very hard but when you turn it to full heat it hardly blows at all??  what do I need to clean or fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4332" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T02:42:05.753" Title="1996 gmc 3500 cube vanheater problems" Tags="|heater|gmc|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8535" CreationDate="2014-01-17T02:42:05.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like there is something between the blower and the heater core, maybe even on the core itself. It could just be leaves which have gotten sucked in and are now blocking it. When the blend door is is over to the cold side, it blows air just fine. Yet when the blend door is pushing across the heater core, it is greatly reduced. This leads me to believe there is something plugging it. You'll need to tear the heater box on the inside apart to figure out what is blocking it. You might be able to do this by pulling the blower motor from inside the engine compartment. Once it's off, it should give you access into the area where the blend door is at (I believe). I suggest doing this first, because it is about a 10 minute operation to pull the motor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/mRtwF29WgfE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a nice video&lt;/a&gt; of how to remove the blower motor. If you don't see anything there, you'll have to tear things apart under the dash on the passenger side. There should be the heater box accessible under the dash which, once pulled, should allow you to see if anything is in there blocking the blower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T02:42:05.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2014-01-17T07:57:07.600" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already got your answer, but I'll just add that as a rule of thumb, you should replace your rotors with every second pad replacement. Also, rotors can and should be skimmed when fitting a new set of pads. It restores a nice smooth surface. It's not a MUST, but it's a very good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have drum brakes at the rear, it shouldn't ever be necessary to replace them. Unless it's a very high mileage car. Drums last extremely long and even the shoes tend to last more than 100k miles. This is just on tiny cars like the Ford Fiesta. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T07:57:07.600" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2014-01-17T10:08:57.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking the car to a workshop and having them put it on a dyno. First without the chip and then with it. If there's no difference, the chip is faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a remap of your current ECU, it should still be illuminating to compare your dyno graph to that from a standard car. You should be able to acquire a dyno graph from Ford or one of their dealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the tune was so mild that you don't even notice, or the technician didn't understand your requirements and mapped your car to be more fuel-efficient, but also more tardy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T10:08:57.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8540" CreationDate="2014-01-17T12:11:15.030" Score="8" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently doing an engine swap on on 97 Corolla Levin, need to swap over the exhaust manifold, water pump etc from one engine to the other, but not sure what the best way to handle the engine whilst doing it? I've currently got it in a tire on a pallet, but it would be preferable to not have to work on the floor. Also worried about stabilising it. Took the tranny out with and swapping that over as well, so a conventional engine stand is not a lot of good to me. I have an engine crane, but figure there must be an easier safer way than suspending it from the crane whilst working on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can tell I'd fall in the over enthusiastic weekend warrior category of car noob. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T21:34:22.640" Title="How to work on engine out of car?" Tags="|engine|toyota|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2014-01-17T12:17:37.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave the engine on the pallet where it can't fall and get damaged. It's safest that way. If you don't want to bend down to work on the engine, invest in a nice comfortable cushion to sit on or put a couple of bricks under the pallet to raise it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I love sitting flat on my behind while working. It helps me concentrate. Although it's a pain to have to get up to fetch something out of reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T12:17:37.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2014-01-17T13:03:58.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend an engine stand.  They're normally adjustable to allow you to find the right places to attach the engine to support it while allowing nearly unrestricted working space around it.  Typically they're height adjustable too, so you can work sitting or standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T13:03:58.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2014-01-17T13:07:19.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotor replacement is normally done when the rotor can no longer be resurfaced and still fall within the acceptable thickness range.  The acceptable thickness range is based on stock brake pads though, so if you're using more aggressive aftermarket pads you may have to do replacement rotors sooner than is specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That rust on the edge doesn't concern me since my rotors look like that within weeks of installation on my cars.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T13:07:19.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-17T13:32:31.070" Score="6" ViewCount="10411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an oil change on my 2008 Audi A4 Quattro. Now I notice that when I am cruising in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear (but not 6th), and I am at about 1200 RPM, the tachometer is not stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed is stable, but the car starts to shake back and forth, and the RPMs dance between 1200 and 1400. If I use the Tiptronic shifter to move one gear down, it all disappears, but the RPMs jump to 2200 or so. Then after few seconds of cruising, the transmission shifts up a gear, and it all starts again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T19:38:27.257" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T06:02:40.730" Title="RPM fluctuation when maintaining speed in high gear" Tags="|audi|rpm|a4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2014-01-17T20:22:18.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a transmission related issue. I would take it back to the immediately if it wasn't doing that before they serviced it. I doubt anything they did caused the problem, but if it did the quicker you take it back the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slipping torque converter clutch would cause similar symptoms, which could be caused by a bad solenoid, bad torque converter, cracked case (internal), etc. Now that's not the only thing that can cause that symptom but it's the first thing that comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that there is a programming update for the car's computer that may address the TCC issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry much about the wrong billing information being in the computer, that's just used for billing. The computer they use to check for updates connects directly to the car so that would be correct if they hooked it up, however on just an service they wouldn't normally do that. Depending on the dealer they may or may not check the vehicle for updates, service bulletins, and outstanding recalls. They use the VIN for that if they did and if the VIN was wrong on the repair order then they may have checked the wrong VIN when checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I would take it back to the dealer immediately to have them check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comments this isn't related to the recent repair. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that addresses your concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Condition  Customer may report shudder or RPM fluctuation while at&#xA;  cruising speed in 4th, 5th, or 6th gear. Technical Background&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Torque convertor clutches may have excess slippage while cruising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solutions range from updating the TCM (Transmission Control Module), Fluid change, and replacing the torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that that's what's wrong with your vehicle but it's the place to start looking since this is a known issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T20:51:44.057" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T20:51:44.057" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1874" CreationDate="2014-01-17T20:40:01.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the same code with 2000 tundra.  I found you need to compare HO₂S Sensor 2 to engine load.  If engine load is low enough, the sensor voltage should be 0 for a period of time as well.  When decelerating, engine load is low, rpm is low and throttle position probably is close.  Not a technician, just leaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4335" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T20:40:01.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8556" CreationDate="2014-01-18T00:36:36.780" Score="4" ViewCount="7004" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question came to mind because of some colder than usual weather we've had here these past couple of weeks, (-12°F at one point), and my wife's new fangled car with all it's sensors in its infinite wisdom told me the psi was low in &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, 1 or 2 psi is of course ignorable, but in this case we're talking over 5+ psi. Of course, as time went on the tires warmed up, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_laws#Boyle.27s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boyle's Law&lt;/a&gt; kicked in and the psi warnings cut off. But that's the dangerous part: Had someone inflated their tires at that temperature, taking them for a spin around the block, as the air heated to operating temperature, the tire pressure would increase and they risk a blowout, is that a correct assumption? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm posting this in case anyone has a similar question: Perhaps a person should take a spin around the block before inflating their tires, to warm them up first? And maybe refrain from tire inflation in the middle of July, until it cools down some? That would probably someone money at the air pump I'd imagine, if nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:43:18.247" Title="What is the best temperature range to check/inflate tires?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8554" CreationDate="2014-01-18T16:13:01.450" Score="6" ViewCount="58775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about painting my next project car, and came across a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz-CB30Ucdo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; where the OP built a makeshift booth in what appeared to be his garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forwarding to later videos when he brought the car into the sun, it turned out fairly well, minus some errors that looked like they were probably from his technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I turn to the experts and ask: What's involved in creating a home paint booth? Assuming small to moderate budget. Is it even necessary? Is the overall goal to eliminate dust and fumes from the area, and contain paint? From research, here's what I've seen so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An area big enough for the vehicle and the painter to comfortably walk around the vehicle, and reach the top of the vehicle to paint.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This probably goes without saying, but we have to start somewhere. In the video I saw the OP just framed an area with 2x4's and other basic lumber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A dust free area&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I know from vocational school dust and car paint don't mix. In the video, the booth frame was covered with painter's plastic, and held down to the studs and floor with staples and spray adhesive, it seemed to do the job. I would probably use the automotive painter's plastic, where the paint sticks to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adequate ventilation/Negative Air Pressure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I figured that ventilation would be so that fumes wouldn't build up in the booth, but I'm not sure about the Negative Air Pressure that I've seen used in a couple of videos. In the video referenced above, the OP used a negative air pressure machine, in another video I saw the OP just stuck a fan in the Window, which served the same purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air filtration&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I have to assume that if a fan or neg. air pressure system is blowing air &lt;em&gt;out of&lt;/em&gt; the booth while one is working, then that air &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; (must?) be filtered to remove the isocyanates. The incoming air should be filtered as well to remove any potential dust, correct? How would one filter out the isocyanates from outgoing air? Is it enough to use HEPA 10 furnace filter? Somehow I don't think so. I've only seen isocyanate filters in a small size, to fit in face masks. Do they make them any bigger? If not, one would have to fashion a decent size frame to hold multiple cartridges, a big enough size to match the air flow of volume of air being pulled out of the booth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't include tools such as an air compressor, sprayer, positive pressure face mask, etc. just the booth, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T18:55:10.730" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:05:14.247" Title="DIY - How to create a car paint booth? What's Involved?" Tags="|paint|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T17:46:37.723" Score="6" ViewCount="2089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what should I write with the CAN ID to send it to ECU. I am using ELM327 and Raspberry Pi with all connections to OBD-II. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially for sending general PIDs to the ECU through ELM327 and Raspberry Pi, I used '010C\r' for PID 010C. Now I want to know, what I need to write and send to the EDU for a CAN ID/Message to be written to ECU?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how can I read CAN Message? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:14:48.293" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T15:44:32.947" Title="Writing CAN Messages" Tags="|electrical|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8552" CreationDate="2014-01-18T18:03:20.460" Score="26" ViewCount="364164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was driving home from work and heard a loud noise which I can only really describe as a &quot;clang&quot;. After looking at it today, it looks like the spring for the front left (passenger side) suspension has snapped at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9TFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already had a couple of friends advise that this is still safe to drive in this condition and was really just looking for some clarification that this is, in fact, safe to drive for a very short term basis (since I need it to get to work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it booked in to get repaired in a few days so it really will be quite short term, and the mileage covered during this time will be about 60 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping in mind that the break is on the first coil, and that the car hasn't lowered all that much in this corner, is this going to be safe for me to drive for a couple of days until it gets repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T18:05:35.853" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:05:35.853" Title="Is it safe to drive a car that has a broken suspension spring?" Tags="|suspension|damage|springs|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2014-01-18T18:49:59.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that bad. I wouldn't go driving fast or anything, but you should be okay. There are guys who cut the springs on their Honda Civics (it's always Honda Civics for some reason) to make them lower and they seem to be doing okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T18:49:59.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2014-01-18T19:17:22.087" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say this would be fine to drive slowly and carefully over short distances (I've had worse) - but things to be careful of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;potholes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed bumps (seriously - watch out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cornering hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try and avoid braking or accelerating hard - gently come to a stop at lights etc as you want to avoid too much nose travel up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get it to the garage asap, though - it is a really easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T19:17:22.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8549" CreationDate="2014-01-18T19:47:44.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full CAN message consists of a FRAME ID and a MESSAGE. You're probably going to have to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6027/what-is-the-best-way-to-reverse-engineer-the-signals-of-a-can-bus?rq=1&quot;&gt;Reverse Engineer&lt;/a&gt; the CAN messages to find out which message you want to put on the bus. The answer there also deals with how to read messages as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specifically addressing the ECU, not sure how you would do that without having the official documentation, or reverse engineering and finding a message that is truly addressed to the ECU. CAN messages do very specific things, so I would be careful what you send if you don't know what you are doing, as you could &lt;em&gt;seriously&lt;/em&gt; damage the vehicle. That being said, the ECU has a CAN ID just like every other device on the network, so it will read in whatever is addressed to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an FYI, a CAN BUS is similar to a mesh network, or an ethernet subnet, every device will see &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the traffic, but will only &lt;em&gt;act on&lt;/em&gt; traffic that is either specifically addressed to it, or is from a specific ID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T19:04:45.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2014-01-18T19:50:48.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're off to a good start - research, research, research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) I would add; being able to lift the car off the ground, and having movable platforms - to keep your work at a comfortable level, as much as possible. The more light you can get on the job, the better - however, it would be safer to have the fixtures outside the plastic/paint area. Just like all of those warnings about natural gas - even static electricity can cause an explosion in a diy booth. Luck is not your friend and has no business in an enclosed space, with atomized paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Most of the dust that you will encounter while painting, is already on the surface to be painted and/or the floor beneath you, and walls around you. Often times painting outside can produce less contamination to the paint, than a diy plastic booth, just from all the &quot;air leaks&quot; funneling the dust into your work area. Sanding your job in the same area that you paint, can also make dirt management difficult - so making sure that your work area is just as clean as your work, is a top priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) One important job of negative pressure systems, is to get the over-spray flowing in the same direction - away from the car. Most often it's a downdraft setup, with intakes in the ceiling, and exhaust in the floor and/or along the walls. These go hand-in-hand with fresh air respirators, to ensure that your atomized pattern is the only thing hitting your work, and good clean air is all that you are breathing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.) Air filtration will probably be the most difficult to manage, with the possibility of becoming even more dangerous, the more you try. Outside of professional equipment designed for the job - good, clean air, that is safe for you, as well as anyone or anything that may be in the vicinity of your booth, will be the biggest job ahead of you. While sticking a fan in a window and/or taping a few furnace filters together may sound ideal, they can also be extremely dangerous, and maybe even an illegal compromise, given the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably a lot more that can be said, and I'm sure there will be, but first and foremost - do your homework and be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I built my booth - it was an entirely independent structure, sharing only the floor, of my 30 x 40 garage. With nothing in the booth, but me, my work, my paint gun, and enough hose to circle a car twice. All lighting and air management was completely independent of one another, explosion proof, and adhered to my local codes, to the letter, and then some. And I still felt safer at my employers, in a purpose built booth, that cost tens of thousands of dollars more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4342" LastEditorUserId="4342" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T16:05:14.247" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:05:14.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2014-01-18T22:10:49.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brake Fluid&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; is not interchangeable or compatible with DOT &lt;strong&gt;3, 4, and 5.1&lt;/strong&gt; fluids and can cause catastrophic system failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dot &lt;strong&gt;3, 4, and 5.1&lt;/strong&gt; are glycol ether based. They are compatible, but like motor oils, you should use the recommended or higher grade fluid. &#xA;Dot 4 and 5.1 also have borate ester to handle higher temperatures.&#xA;DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are found in most brake and clutch systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; is a silicone oil based fluid and can only be used in new, dry systems. It is found in racing, US Military, Soviet, and Finnish systems to handle low temperature, excessive braking, and water exposure problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4344" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T20:17:25.337" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:17:25.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8546" CreationDate="2014-01-18T22:28:42.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general guideline used to be to check the tire pressure every 30 days. The theory I assume is that normally you wouldn't see drastic ambient temperature swings in a thirty day period. A couple of ballpark calculations show a theoretical drop of almost 5psi with a 35 degree temperature drop. I say theoretical because this doesn't take into account any small leaks. Manufacturers usually specify checking the tire pressures cold, meaning ambient temperature whether that is -5 degrees F or 95 degrees F. I your TPS is faulting on a cold start-up the tires are underinflated. If the fault clears after driving several miles they are still underinflated as the specified psi is for cold tires. As to your last point, yes you would want to let the tires cool down if you were checking pressure on tires that were hot from a long drive. After a 30 minute drive at highway speeds tire temperature can increase by as much as 50 degrees with a corresponding pressure increase.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T22:28:42.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2014-01-18T22:40:59.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @ Rory Alsop that yes the car can be driven short distances at reasonable speed in order to get it replaced. Be aware that the broken spring no longer has the formed end that positions in the strut. While many people do cut their springs, it is a calculated cut hopefully balancing ride height and spring rate. In my experience the most common cause of broken springs is worn struts. Worn struts lack the rebound and dampening controls which allows the spring to overcompress and overextend weakening it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T22:40:59.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8549" CreationDate="2014-01-18T23:32:00.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that you start with Bosch CAN 2.0 spec, and then move on to openXc, if you have access to a newer Ford vehicle, they provide you with details on how to leverage some CAN interfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that OBD is a standard, but the implementation of CAN is not, different vehicles will have CAN buses wired to different pins on the connector, and also multiple buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But like MD said, most of this information on the buses is proprietary, and you will have to do some reverse engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look forward to hearing more of your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;You don't send messages to a specific ECU, Can Message are sent to all modules on the bus (or all buses via a gateway). The question your really need to answer, is what messages does that particle ECU Listen for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BOSCH CAN SPEC:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://esd.cs.ucr.edu/webres/can20.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://esd.cs.ucr.edu/webres/can20.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;developer.ford.com&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.ford.com/pages/openxc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://developer.ford.com/pages/openxc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastEditorUserId="21564" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T15:44:32.947" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T15:44:32.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8561" CreationDate="2014-01-19T13:38:19.510" Score="6" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all vehicles with OBD2 have a CAN-bus? Otherwise, what are the alternative buses used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there special versions of the buses for trucks and school-buses than for cars/suv/vans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T18:50:26.060" Title="OBD2 and CAN-bus" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2014-01-19T14:46:27.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With broken springs, wheels tend to &quot;jump&quot;: on average, the wheel will spend less time in contact with the ground, especially when the road is slightly bumpy. This reduced braking efficiency. For the short term, reducing your driving speed will lower your need for braking, and thus compensate this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned that willingly driving with such a known break probably invalidates your insurance. Woe to you if you have an accident. Depending on your local laws, this may make driving your car with a broken spring &lt;em&gt;illegal&lt;/em&gt; -- not the same thing as &lt;em&gt;dangerous&lt;/em&gt;, but an important parameter nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4348" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T14:46:27.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8559" CreationDate="2014-01-19T18:50:26.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer would be yes if the vehicle was produced after 2008, otherwise no. in the following article it states it is required as one of the signalling protocols in OBD2 Post 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_signal_protocols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_signal_protocols&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So presently vehicles that are currently being produced do have a CAN channel included in the OBD2 Connector. However, there are are pins in the OBD2 that are manufacturer specific. And there are usually multiple CAN-buses in the modern Auto-mobile, as I have drawn from my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also see the alternative buses in the link as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, please be aware that much of OBD-II is manufacturer specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T18:50:26.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2014-01-19T19:08:16.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you connect to the correct bus and broadcast the correct CAN message you still run into the issue, of transmitting a CAN message that is already being transmitted by another ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way CAN works, every can message has an Arbitration ID also referred to as the message id. Under normal operation, no ECU will ever broadcast a message with the same ID on the Same bus. When you do this. In theory you should be able to lock or unlock the door, by flooding the bus, with the desired message, but it will not be something I would use inside of a product, since your abuse of the bus will interefere with the communication of ECU's on the bus that broadcast at a lower priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now again, if the CAN message for locking and unlocking the door, is completely event driven, and not periodically broadcasted then what your trying to do completely feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the messages that you are sniffing, that change when you lock or unlock the door, may not be the ones of interest. Status messages are often gatewayed on to other buses, you would have to broadcast the correct message on the bus that it originates from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hint: Search online for the pin out for the OBD connector in your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Should this be possible over the CAN bus exposed on the OBD-II&#xA;  port? I've seen sources saying that doors are controlled by a&#xA;  different, slower bus, but I've also seen devices advertised that will&#xA;  lock the doors when you reach a particular speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it may be possible, but you need to know the pin out for the OBDII in your car which probably is not public information, but you can figure out which ones are of interest by eliminating the standard OBDII pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Are the other buses exposed in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As answered above, I think there is a good chance, eliminate the standard OBD pins, and the remaining pairs, will be the ones of interest. Each can data channel has a Data high, and Data low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Is there any way I can find out the meaning of the messages I've&#xA;  captured without paying vast amounts of money to Toyota?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a CAN tool, to watch the data on the suspect pins, the good news is you will only catch can messages when connected to the correct pins. Otherwise tool will throw errors. and You may need a tool that can automaticly detect the baud rates, or you can guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its going to require a good bit of time, and hacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastEditorUserId="4345" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T19:50:43.000" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T19:50:43.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8564" CreationDate="2014-01-19T19:32:30.503" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;What items are in the cooling system loop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there's the Radiator, and the Block, but what else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T23:14:11.197" Title="What items are in the cooling system loop?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8563" CreationDate="2014-01-19T21:04:32.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll also have the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinder head(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars also have water pipes in the inlet manifold, and some have water-cooled transmission oil coolers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've also usually got an expansion tank, but that's not part of the loop itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T23:14:11.197" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T23:14:11.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3930" CreationDate="2014-01-20T06:02:45.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a mazda 6 2004 hatch back  and it has problems it makes the clinging nose in the back i found out one off the rubber bushing is cracked . so there is some space between the body and frame and they rubb and make it  rough and loud when it goes over speed bumps . realy bad i fell like the frame will twist and get even more bad if i dont fix the rubber bushing i think the rest off the bushings will crack not to sure tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4351" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T06:02:45.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4457" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:08:10.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scooters have only a single gear or pulley. So the acceleration and speed will remain the same and sometimes the engine has to apply more power to move the vehicle(If the load is heavy) this makes the engine less efficient. In bikes the 1st gear give better torque and less velocity (as you can see we can't attain high speed at first gear) which helps in pulling heavy loads also. So the bike applies less energy to pull than compared to a scooter. So more efficiency. In the last gear the engines speed is multiplied by the gears. Since we change the gears from 1st to last the acceleration in last gear does not matter as it will be low only if we try to move the bike from rest when in the last gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4352" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T15:18:28.527" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T15:18:28.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8563" CreationDate="2014-01-20T21:21:10.783" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater Core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T21:21:10.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8569" CreationDate="2014-01-20T21:23:50.950" Score="3" ViewCount="16454" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the heater core work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the inputs to the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the outputs of the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some common ways that it can fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4345" LastEditorUserId="4345" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T14:48:49.447" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T21:43:39.207" Title="How does the heater core work?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8568" CreationDate="2014-01-20T23:09:25.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater core is part of continuous loop of engine coolant propelled via the water pump, flowing through caverns in the engine, through pipes that run through the firewall into the heater core, back out the firewall, and finally through the radiator. If the thermostat dictates it (due to a temperature limit being reached), the fan blows air over the radiator to cool it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the liquid flowing in and out of the heater core is constantly heated by the engine, the only other component necessary to produce heat is a fan blowing air through the heater core (much like the radiator, except the air enters the cabin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what can go wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Coolant in the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A broken loop. This can be a broken/leaking rubber hose, or a crack in any component, but in the end, presents itself as a lack of coolant in the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of flow through the system. If the liquid in the heater core stagnates, it will eventually become too cool to produce a sufficient amount of heat. This is usually due to a bad water pump. I've seen factory pumps made out of plastic; the fins on these tend to get dissolved by certain types of coolant over time until all you have left is a cylinder with dimples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty thermostat. An engine has an optimum temperature to be operating at. It certainly should not get too hot, but it also should not run cold; it is much more efficient once &quot;warmed up&quot;. To faciliate staying at the same temperature, a thermostat opens or closes to let coolant flow. If stuck open, it cools the engine too much. As a by-product, the heater (which also draws heat from the hot coolant) suffers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No air flow through heater core (bad heater blower fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air flow through heater core, but not into cabin. Bad vacuum lines, broken or jammed circulation doors. In this case, the liquid's hot, the heater fan is working, but the air can't get into the interior of the car because it is physically being stopped by a blend door that's supposed to be open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:53:29.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:53:29.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8568" CreationDate="2014-01-20T23:10:01.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater core works through heat transference. Hot radiator fluid goes into the core, the heater fan blows through it, heat is transferred to the cooler air, and heat is transferred into the cabin. The input is radiator fluid directly from the engine and output from the core goes directly back into the engine. It is moved through via the water pump on the engine. Common failures are through being plugged by debris in old radiator fluid, by corrosion, and to a lesser degree, through the heating and cooling cycles which can cause failure (through loosening joints and such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T23:10:01.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2014-01-20T23:28:31.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realizing this is a late answer to this question ... When you pour different weights of oil together, they &lt;em&gt;DO NOT MIX&lt;/em&gt;. They will separate out after you shut your engine off. This won't do well for your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting different &lt;em&gt;BRANDS&lt;/em&gt; together of the same weight will not have ill effects on your engine, but usually once you pick a brand, stick with it. Detergent packages in the different oils may not mix well together, which may cause unexpected results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this said, stick with the same weight of oil, as in, don't mix weights ... Wait until you change the oil to change viscosity. If it's an emergency where you don't have a choice, &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; oil is better than &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; oil (within reason ... don't use gear oil in your crank case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T23:28:31.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2014-01-21T07:56:46.373" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotaries aren't the most reliable engines. They're massive fun and they're smooth as silk, but because it's so smooth, you tend to not notice when you're over-revving. But even if you treat it well, the fact that you have a rotor scraping the inside of your engine means it MUST cause damage. The exhaust gases are also pretty hot for a non-turbo car and that could cause detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotary engines burn oil. That's just the way it is. Check your levels every two to three weeks. I would definitely put in a type of oil that would provide lubrication at high RPM. Also, synthetics are very bad because a rotary engine, just like a 2-stroke engine actually burns off oil and synthetics resist being burned off. Some folks actually mix their oil with 2-stroke oil. Ask a specialist rotary performance shop about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, when they are revved to high RPMs the apex seals may damage the inside of the engine after a while. This damage is referred to as chatter marks. This is caused by carbon build-up (see the next point). To minimize this damage, you need to use an oil that will lubricate your engine sufficiently when revving as high as a rotary does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, it is very important to rev the car to its limit at least once a week to burn off excess carbon build-up. Or just go for a nice, spirited drive. Allow the car to warm up properly beforehand and cool down after. This is also a good idea for turbo owners. I don't know if it's &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; important in the RX8 as it was with the RX2 and RX7, but rather safe than sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, keep in mind that the rotary engine is a high-performance engine. It isn't intended to be used at slow speeds, crawling through traffic. Overheating a Rotary is VERY bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T07:10:06.777" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T07:10:06.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2014-01-21T14:35:57.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As both 'mikes' and 'Paulster2' thought, the radiator system was simply burping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took much more coolant than I expected, ~2 refills to the middle of the coolant tank. Might have been some combination of the rapidly cooling weather coupled with the water pump replacement, but at any rate, coolant level is perfect now without any intervention other than adding a little now and again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4255" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T14:35:57.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8578" CreationDate="2014-01-21T21:34:58.890" Score="4" ViewCount="2154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've installed a 12&quot; fusible link as a replacement for a fusible link on the line that charges the battery from the alternator. I showed the OEM part to the guy at the parts store and he gave me a 12&quot; piece of fusible link wire. I also showed him the old link (about 6&quot; long). He told me not to cut it as length matters in these cases. I've since heard that fusible links should not be longer than 9&quot;. Is the one I installed still effective? It comes out of the package at 12&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4359" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T22:40:41.480" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T23:17:13.287" Title="How long should fusible links be?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|alternator|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2014-01-21T22:25:12.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems ridiculous to me, if your car is parked outside you still have to clean the wipers, put the heater and defroster on and clear your car of snow before you drive it. In some states you must clear the top of the car before driving it so that the snow doesn't blind the driver behind you as it slides off. Having the wipers up makes them more vulnerable to the elements too, especially if it is a heavy wet snow like we get in the East. If you have them up in a public place it attracts attention and it could very well be the negative kind. I think that people see others doing it and just feel that they should too for no apparent reason (the sheep theory) Well, there you have my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4360" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T22:25:12.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8576" CreationDate="2014-01-21T23:17:13.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Fusible link FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What size replacement fusible link should be used ?&#xA;  The automotive service industry recommends using the &lt;strong&gt;same gauge and length&lt;/strong&gt; as the blown fusible link &lt;strong&gt;after the cause of failure is corrected&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure the size/length you put back in is the size/length you took out. Also, as I've highlighted, a new fusible link will do you no good if you have not figured out the reason for the old one to go bad in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T23:17:13.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8579" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:13:30.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially the same as P0137.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O2 sensor measures the oxygen levels in the exhaust stream. It registers this with a voltage reading from .1 to .9 mV. The voltage reading is high when the exhaust is rich and low when it is lean. If the computer senses the O2 reading as too high/low for more than two (2) minutes (in most cars) it will come back with a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be nothing visible or obvious to the driver something is wrong with it. One indication is poor fuel mileage. This may become increasingly worse over a long period of time so it too may not be obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty O2 sensor leak in exhaust close to O2 sensor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short to voltage on O2 signal circuit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open in circuit resistance caused by corrosion in connector &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Solutions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the second oxygen sensor on bank 1 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair open or short in signal circuit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean corrosion from connector &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T01:55:25.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T01:55:25.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8580" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:13:30.680" Score="0" Body="Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T01:55:20.590" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T01:55:20.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8583" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:38:30.250" Score="3" ViewCount="43271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2011 Volkswagon Jetta 2.5 and have been having an intermittent issue where my lights seem to come on randomly in the middle of the night. This only seems to happen in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I came out in the morning and I come outside, I notice that my lights are on. When I open the door, the signal dings like my lights are on but my switch is in the off position. I have to then switch the lights on and then back off to turn them off and to turn the dinging off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no way to reproduce it. I purchased my car used from CarMax in December of 2012 and it started happening in early 2013 but stopped from about March to November. Then when the temperatures started dropping, it has started happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dropped the car off at CarMax to have them look at it last year. They kept it overnight (outside) but it did not happen and their only recommendation was to leave it with them until it happens which isn't feasible for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone come across anything like this before or have any idea what I should tell a mechanic to investigate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4361" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T21:48:07.177" Title="Lights randomly coming on in middle of the night" Tags="|vw|lights|jetta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8581" CreationDate="2014-01-22T10:55:29.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had a similar issue with a BMW 5-series - in his case it turned out to be water getting into the lighting control unit through a perished seal. It might be worth checking that, although I wouldn't expect the seals to have failed on a car this new...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T10:55:29.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8592" CreationDate="2014-01-22T12:57:56.547" Score="2" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Indian cars have steering angle sensor?&#xA;Actually what I have to see if a car travels straight when made to move on straight line and determine if there is some problem with alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T20:46:12.270" Title="steering angle sensor in indian cars" Tags="|sensor|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T14:21:40.477" Score="5" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevy Cobalt 2008.  I drove the car yesterday before the freezing cold and during the snow. This morning the key will not turn in the ignition but the lights come on. The sun is up but still cannot turn key. The steering wheel is not locked and the car is in park completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4365" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T17:31:41.743" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T19:25:29.823" Title="key wont turn inside" Tags="|chevrolet|cobalt|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8585" CreationDate="2014-01-22T14:49:37.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three things I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have another key to try? May just not like the key you are trying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the steering wheel cocked at all, where there may be causing pressure on the key lock? Try giggling the steering column as you are trying to turn the key (assume you might have tried this, but don't know).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your locking mechanism may be frozen. You could &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; heating up the ignition cylinder by using a hair dryer. If this works, shoot the ignition with just a little bit of WD-40 or some other lubricant to help it not do this again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T14:49:37.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8581" CreationDate="2014-01-22T21:59:12.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the owners manual page for fuses and relays diagram. It is possible that you have a bad headlight relay (if Jettas have them). It may be for the headlights or the DRL also known as daytime running lights. You may be able to swap it with a similar relay that serves another function. Use a relay that is not safety related such as power windows rather than Antilock brakes. If equipped leave the headlights in the off rather than the Auto-on position and see if the problems resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T21:59:12.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2075" CreationDate="2014-01-23T02:26:21.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;He probably meant CVT oil/transmission oil. Honda CVT oil needs replacing more often once car has driven a lot of K's. Considering its 1999, i assume it will have more than 150K KMs', so in that case he may be right in mentioning replacement every 7500KM. &#xA;CVT's need to be taken care of unlike auto transmission cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4369" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T02:26:21.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T03:35:05.023" Score="5" ViewCount="15806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue with my VW Jetta (2001) Automatic transmission, gasoline engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tail lights were out because of a missing fuse. So in the dark I looked to find a good one to replace it with (of the ones already in use but not necessary) and I did not grab a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the tail lights on and started to drive to work. I jumped on the expressway and noticed that I was driving between 4,000-5,000 rpm while only going 50 miles per hour. I jumped off the express way and watched the rpm needle go down but it did not go down, then jump, then down, then jump as it would when shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the expressway I went onto some back streets which were good to get the car up to shifting speeds to watch the rpm. Again, the rpm just increased and never dropped as would normally occur during a shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed that it was due to pulling a fuse that corresponded to shifting. I had no such problems with my car before fixing the tail lights and I had been driving a decent amount before and after messing with the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked up the fuse diagram and list (in English and not pictures). I checked every fuse that seemed to even been remotely related to the transmission. Then I checked every single fuse to make sure they were the correct amperage and were not blown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my next step? I am a pizza delivery driver and I need this car asap. Is it possible the transmission is sticking or a cracked gear? Any input would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4370" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T10:53:17.927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T19:06:58.003" Title="Could a fuse be responsible for my VW Jetta not shifting while in drive?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|vw|fuse|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8584" CreationDate="2014-01-23T20:46:12.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars have them, some don't. It depends on options the car has. The make, model, trim level, and target market all factor in to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering wheel angle sensors are typically used for stability control. The first clue would be if the car has some type of stability control--then it most likely has a steering angle sensor. The next step would be if this sensor data can be read through a diagnostic port (nowadays, OBD-II port). Some manufacturers allow the reading of this (typically via the CAN-BUS), some do not. &lt;a href=&quot;http://openxcplatform.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford's OpenXC&lt;/a&gt;, for example, allows reading this and other data points easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T20:46:12.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T11:05:58.057" Score="3" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '94 4th gen Honda Prelude. Driving home today I felt a distinct wobble through the steering wheel. I immediately thought I had a flat and pulled over but found the tyre is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wobble seems to get worse when cornering and is barely noticeable on straights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this? CV joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:19:23.153" Title="Wobble in steering (not tyre)?" Tags="|steering|cv-boot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8596" CreationDate="2014-01-24T11:19:28.103" Score="3" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before an upgrade to a new Hitchcock &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/carburation-airfilters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conical air filter&lt;/a&gt;, the carburetor was held in place by both the original (massive) air filter and the rubber manifold attached to the engine head, and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the new air filter is not attached to the body of the bike, the carb plus filter combination is attached to the bike solely by the manifold, which tends to bend and move, problem aggravated by the vibrations, and I fear the carb will simply fall at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a metal manifold out there that would hold my carb tighter in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4053" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T13:00:12.653" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T17:24:08.203" Title="What is the right way to attach the Micarb to the engine head of my Enfield Bullet 500?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2014-01-24T15:54:24.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contacts on your key fob could be loose or corroded, preventing good contact with your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, it is corrosion on the terminals inside the battery tray. You can clean that out by using a pencil eraser or some fine Emory cloth on the Positive (+) and Negative (-) terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, the metal tab that keeps the battery in electrical contact with the terminals gets mashed flat. If that happens, the battery will not be able to complete the electrical circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the battery compartment is a cheap piece of steel that acts as ground and provides pressure on the battery so that both sides stay in contact. If this piece of steel is not making good contact, you could try bending the little metal tab up slightly so that it has more pressure to provide to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T15:54:24.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8594" CreationDate="2014-01-24T17:24:08.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the images I've seen of the engine/carb setup, the original rubber intake manifold piece, due to design, could not be made out of metal. You still need a way to attach it to the engine, and that is going to be some sort of rubber part to connect the two pieces. Due to this, I have two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a mount out of metal which would go between the carb and some point on the engine. This would be a small strap or metal piece which would, for instance, go between where the current rubber manifold mounts to the engine, down to the screws at the bottom of the bowl. This could be done with two thin strips of firm (not flimsy) bendable metal, cut to the right length, and drilled the proper size on each end for mounting. I suggest two strips, one for either side of the carb, to add rigidity, as well as symmetry. Paint them mat-black if you don't want them to look out of place (versus a shiny piece of metal). Powdercoat them if you want a durable finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit a different carburetor to the engine. I did see a manifold which has a bolted boss on both sides. This might take a little work, but seeing as how you have an aftermarket air filter, I'm sure you are not looking to keep your bike strictly stock. The one I saw from a google image search, appears to be from eBay (UK). Here is a picture of it:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HEAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aftermarket Enfield carb mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T17:24:08.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T23:37:41.177" Score="4" ViewCount="6804" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: BMW 318 TDS Compact. 90HP. 168.000KM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Situation: was driving a very intense uphill section at 70km/h, in 4th gear (2.000 rpm). Everything was ok. Engine sound, temperature, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suddenly, despite my foot was pushing the Throttle at full power to stay at 2.000rpm, rpm started slowly dropping... until the engine STOPPED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicator was on! (don't remember if blinking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0LPYt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after approximately 30 seconds, I tried starting the engine again. After a few tries the engine started, but hesitated a lot (the RPMS slowly went from 0 to 1000 rpm), and then I just let the engine heat a bit and started driving again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I drove cautiously till my destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opening the hood of the car, I was surprised to see that the EGR part was quite cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me to understand what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : I found there is an air bubble in the Gasoil pipe. Might that be a reason ... ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cONGw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="1963" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T00:40:27.940" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T00:29:16.930" Title="Engine suddenly died on uphill, then went back to life after a few tries" Tags="|engine|bmw|diesel|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8599" CreationDate="2014-01-25T13:18:07.860" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have really no knowledge about mechanics but such a curious guy. Excuse my Ignorance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a variable engine exist? Like as the vehicle slows down the engine will slow down and when the vehicle stops, the engine also stops.&#xA;What are difficulties?&#xA;Just why does the engine keep running like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:35:22.547" Title="Can a variable engine exist?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8598" CreationDate="2014-01-25T16:00:09.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, something like that already exists. Take a closer look at most all of the Hybrid cars out there, such as the Toyota Prius. These vehicles are accelerated by two motors, one being the gas engine, while the second being electric. If the electric motor can handle the needs of the vehicle, it takes over and does it. When at rest at a stoplight, the gas engine will completely shut down if not needed (for accessories or what have you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a more detailed version of how it works from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car6.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How Stuff Works&lt;/a&gt; website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Prius mainly relies on two features to optimize efficiency and reduce emissions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its engine only runs at an efficient speed and load - In order to reduce emissions, the Prius can accelerate to a speed of about 15 mph (24 kph) before switching on the gasoline engine. The engine only starts once the vehicle has passed a certain speed. And once the engine starts, it operates in a narrow speed band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses a unique power split device - Gasoline engines can be tuned to run most efficiently in certain speed and load ranges. The power split device on the Prius, which we'll talk about in a minute, allows the engine to stay in its most efficient load and speed range most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota designed the 1.5-liter engine in the Prius to run at a maximum speed of only 5,000 rpm, where it makes 76 horsepower. Keeping the maximum speed of the engine low allows for the use of lighter components that improve efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electric motor on the Prius is rated at 67 horsepower from 1,200 to 1,540 rpm. It produces 295 pound-feet of torque from 0 to 1,200 rpm, which is more than enough to get the car going without the aid of the gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GM Volt uses a gasoline engine to recharge its batteries, but runs almost entirely off of electric motors. Here is an excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gm-volt.com/chevy-volt-faqs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GM website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How is the Chevy Volt different than other cars on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The car is a plug-in range-extended electric vehicle with an on-board gasoline generator. It has a large battery that stores power from your home electric outlet and which is connected to an electric motor. The electric motor directly propels the car. The battery can power the car for the first 25 to 50 miles. After that, should one continue to need to drive, the on-board gasoline generator provide electricity for the motor and participate in driving the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How is the Chevy Volt different than conventional hybrids, like the Prius?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Today’s hybrids are called parallel hybrids. They use a small electric motor for low speed driving, but switch to a regular gas engine for acceleration and faster speed driving with the electric motor providing enhancement, hence both engines work side by side or in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Volt is a series vehicle meaning only the electric motor powers the car at all times, the gas engine is just a generator for making electricity once the battery is depleted.  A little like the Prius, the engine does help spin the wheels after the battery is depleted.  GM engineers chose to do this because it improved efficiency by 10 to 15 percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some interesting articles out there on the subject of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-idling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;anti-idling&lt;/a&gt;, where it is suggested that vehicles should not idle more than three (3) minutes at any given time. If I remember correctly, I believe you cannot idle your engine more than one (1) minute after start-up in England (UK) when you get ready to go in the morning, so no &amp;quot;warming up&amp;quot; your vehicle before you are on your way. I read an article from a very &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;green&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; website which stated idling your vehicle more than 10 seconds will put out more emissions than if you stopped and restarted your engine. I don't know the validity of the statement, but here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegreencarwebsite.co.uk/blog/index.php/2012/01/24/just-bone-idle-should-you-leave-your-engine-running-or-not-the-green-piece/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the source&lt;/a&gt; if you want to read what they have to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also plenty of thought out there which suggests, if you know you're going to be sitting at one place for an extended period of time, you should just shut your vehicle off, or at least stop the engine. This can save you gas and emissions if the period of time is extended you may be sitting there. I'm talking about such as in traffic jams or at a very long traffic light. There is a lot of conjecture on the subject, so do not want to add to it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, these engines already exist. I don't think I'd call them a &amp;quot;variable engine&amp;quot;, but the term is fine. I believe as manufacturers move towards greater efficiencies, they will be doing more like what you are asking about and have exactly that, engines which turn off at stop lights, while stopped for more than a few minutes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T16:00:09.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-25T19:22:08.873" Score="-1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am searching for some possible way so that I can get the tilt or amount by which the steering wheel is rotated and without any use of special sensor for it , in Indian Cars like Swift D-Zire ,  Beat or ZEN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T19:56:49.423" Title="How can we measure the tilt of steering wheel in car without any special sensor for it?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T08:42:55.580" Score="6" ViewCount="23588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a little Uno inherited from my dad. Just before he passed away he was having trouble getting it to start, and before that, having it die on a drive somewhere, even close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would now like to solve the non-starting problem first. The battery is charged and seems strong. It takes many tries to start and revs of the starter motor before it shows much discharge. I will be working alone, and therefore have difficulty with things like turning the starter and checking for spark. I will rig a jumper lead from the battery to the starter solenoid for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the possible causes of non-starting as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Electrical&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no spark voltage from the coil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no voltage to individual plugs from the distributer, very likely points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no power at all for the ignition system. No idea where to look here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fuel. The car does have fuel though, ruling that out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fuel reaching the fuel pump, i.e. a blocked line or filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fuel reaching the carb, i.e. a malfunctioning fuel pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Carb&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A blocked jet or cannel somewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stuck float or malfunctioning float valve (dunno what it's really called).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stuck butterfly, allowing no air and ergo no vapourization of fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this question not to directly ask what is wrong, or what must I do, but I would like to narrow things down, and am hoping that members here familiar with the Uno could give me a start, say a prioritization of the possible faults I list, and, or, additional faults I could check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:52:55.537" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:52:55.537" Title="Methods of diagnosing a non-starting Fiat Uno" Tags="|starting|ignition|fuel-system|fiat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12466" CreationDate="2014-01-26T11:10:15.070" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time choosing a tire for my bike ('11 Yamaha FZ8n). The main source of my confusion are very similar markings on a multitude of tires that don't make a lot of sense to me. I was hoping someone could help me out a bit on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends the following tire for the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bridgestone Battlax 021 BB 180/55 ZR 17 (73W) TL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tire, however, is not exactly competitively priced. There's a significantly less pricey Bridgestone alternate with the following designation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bridgestone Battlax 021 180/55 ZR 17 (73W) TL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference here is the intermediate &lt;code&gt;BB&lt;/code&gt; in the designations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does that &lt;code&gt;BB&lt;/code&gt; mean and what's the difference between the two tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, it appears that the BB is nothing more than an original equipment code. All extra information I've been able to find on the tires is that the &lt;code&gt;BB&lt;/code&gt; model is the &quot;original equipment&quot; for the Yamaha FZ8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it'd be nice to know if there are any differences in the tires beyond their model code justifying a nearly 50 % price difference (~150 € and ~100 € for the rear tires respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the technical difference between the two models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T10:24:21.527" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T06:11:14.453" Title="Motorcycle tire shopping confusion" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T17:49:19.023" Score="1" ViewCount="1830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to read/write CAN messages. I have MATLAB in my laptop which has a Vehicle Network Toolbox which supports reading/writing CAN messages. I have my hardware OBD-II to UART board, FTDI and OBD-ii cable. Please tell me how to get data from OBD-ii to MATLAB(Vehicle Network Toolbox). Is it supported?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T19:23:36.890" Title="Reading CAN messages through UART to OBD-II Board and MATLAB Toolbox" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8608" CreationDate="2014-01-26T19:23:36.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAN bus is actually a fairly complex protocol, similar to USB in many ways.  However, your OBD-II to FTDI adapter is probably just implementing the OBD-II part of this protocol, which is pretty simple (after all, they are converting it to a serial interface).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the serial communication tools built into MATLAB to do this (e.g., to communicate ASCII to a serial port like COM1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could convert the OBD-II messages to serial in any number of ways, but the ELM327 chip family's method is by far the most common.  For this the spec is here (&lt;a href=&quot;http://elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DS.pdf&lt;/a&gt;), check out the section called &quot;OBD commands&quot;.  It is a very simple interface, you request a PID and it replies with the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T19:23:36.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T20:59:35.780" Score="3" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;1993 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Elite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an odd problem where the driver side vents have almost no airflow coming out of them. This is for all positions, so no combination of defrost/vent/heat/combined makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The passenger side is acting fine and blows pretty strong and hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I have the kick panel off and the glove box out, but I can't see any sort of actuator that isn't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a diagram of the layout? Is it even possible for an actuator to BLOCK the air going to the driver side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4384" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T13:28:40.957" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T13:28:40.957" Title="No airflow on any driver side vents" Tags="|ac|hvac|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-27T03:30:03.013" Score="4" ViewCount="5057" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twice in the past month my 92 Civic has exhibited really bad idle behavior in temperatures around 10-20 degrees F. When first starting the engine, it idles at something like 2000-2500 RPMs (by ear; no tach so I can't tell for sure), and after driving for 5-10 minutes, the behavior changes and it cycles between a low idle (maybe 500-800) and the high idle (2000+) in a pattern of about 2 seconds per cycle. The problem goes away entirely once the temperature increases enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that there's moisture freezing somewhere, likely inside the IAC valve or elsewhere around the throttle body. Tracking down the exact location seems unpleasant (especially considering the weather I'd be working in) so I'd mainly like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this cause for any concern aside from obvious things (emissions, mild surging while driving, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common problem with an easy known fix I could try without spending effort trying to track it down myself?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T18:29:52.293" Title="Extremely high then fluctuating idle at very cold temperatures" Tags="|honda|idle|surging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8611" CreationDate="2014-01-27T07:23:31.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not being familiar with the technical layout of Honda engines this may be a long-shot. However, my Peugeot of the same era had identical symptoms. I replaced the &lt;strong&gt;idle air control valve&lt;/strong&gt; and the problem was instantly solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtube comes to the rescue: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUkCCwqU3eU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Clean the IACV- Idle Air Control Valve &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T07:23:31.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8679" CreationDate="2014-01-27T08:10:09.927" Score="4" ViewCount="6418" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning was the second time the same ancillary coolant hose burst in my car. It's a 2005 model Opel/Vauxhall Astra turbo coupe (engine is Z20LET). Prior to this, I have had many problems with coolant leaking out of the joint where the pipe connects to the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know exactly how to replace the pipe (unscrew clamps and take off the old one, then attach the new pipe and fasten the clamps), but I was wondering what the cause was and if anyone has had similar problems. I would like to avoid this problem in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car doesn't run terribly hot, even in slow traffic in summer. The temperature hardly ever goes over 95 to 100 degrees celsius (203 to 212 Fahrenheit). I've also taken care to eliminate air bubbles in the coolant system by idling the car with the radiator cap off when I top up the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even then, I suspect that the pressure may be too high in the coolant plumbing. Or else the pipes may have perished, being 8 or 9 years old. I don't think I have a blown gasket, but if you knew my history with the car, I wouldn't even be surprised. Although engine performance is very good and I don't have a rough idle or lumpy acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra info: I had my aircon on a lot the previous day and I have this feeling that I may have had it on a lot the previous time this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: some pics of the usual suspects showing no signs of a blown head gasket.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rs52O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKVZE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil cap&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqTFn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coolant&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4F6d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burst pipe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T13:45:23.267" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T11:41:00.137" Title="Second burst ancillary hose on Z20LET engine" Tags="|coolant|radiator|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8610" CreationDate="2014-01-27T10:23:57.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the passenger side vents are working correctly, I'd guess that you've got a blockage somewhere. I doubt the actuator itself could block it, but it is entirely possible for a foreign object to get stuck in there and block it up - your most likely suspect is leaves, they get blown into the inlet every autumn (fall) and gradually build up inside the pipes until they stop the airflow, or stop the actuators moving...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T10:23:57.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8601" CreationDate="2014-01-27T10:38:37.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've got a pretty good idea what you're doing already!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by replacing the points &amp;amp; condensor and regapping them, that way you can eliminate one potential problem immediately. The same with the fuel filter - all are quick and cheap and will need doing anyway... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a compression check as well, to make sure that is good, and remove the spark plugs, check and re-gap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick way of checking whether it is a fuel problem is to get a can of &quot;Easy start&quot; or similar (the Aussies have a brand delightfully called &quot;Startyabastard&quot;), and spray it directly into the carb inlet, then try to start it - if it coughs, and tries to start, you have a fuel issue, if it does nothing different then it isn't (and so is probably electrical...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T10:38:37.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8620" CreationDate="2014-01-27T14:55:47.383" Score="6" ViewCount="29993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2002 Ford Escape (automatic transmission) that will start fine and reverse without any problems, but when I put it in drive and try to pull forward, it remains in idle. I can hit the gas and take it up to 3000+ RPM, but it just moves forward at about 5 MPH idling, with the O/D light flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I put it in L1 or L2, I can get up to 20 MPH, shift into drive, and it will shift up and down just fine until I come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing this? Is it a computer/electrical problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T17:30:16.407" Title="Ford Escape won't shift into gear, O/D light flashing" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|shifting|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8611" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:02:21.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know when exactly Honda stopped programming this behavior into their cars, but I do know that what you described is a warm-up sequence that some older Hondas go through by design. First a high idle, then an alternating high and low idle (1-2 seconds/cycle), then normal low idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that the behavior you describe is normal, and not indicative of any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T15:02:21.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8600" CreationDate="2014-01-27T19:56:49.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't. If there is no steering angle sensor to input that information to the vehicles computer, you can't extract that information. Can I ask what you're trying to achieve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T19:56:49.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2014-01-27T20:39:01.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke with a Ford dealership service technician and he said the most likely cause of this behavior was that the clutches were going out in the transmission. The recommended fix was a new transmission, or as I decided for a 2002 car with over 200k miles, a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, they said it shouldn't harm the transmission to continue to drive it like a psuedo-manual. So as long as I shift into L1 when I come to a stop and shift back up to Drive when above 20 MPH, I can get a little more life out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T20:39:01.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8624" CreationDate="2014-01-28T16:44:07.027" Score="4" ViewCount="13125" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '99 Grand Prix has an aftermarket remote-start. When the weather gets around 5°F like it is now, the engine does not start after 0.8 seconds of cranking. The system detects the car is not running after 30 seconds and tries again. If after the third attempt, the car isn't running, it gives up and my remote/fob beeps. Cranking without starting is obviously bad because it &lt;em&gt;drains my battery&lt;/em&gt; when I perhaps need it most. The situation is made worse because the battery is less able to function at these temperatures. Thus I'm inclined not to reattempt remote-start too many times in fear of needing a jump. This has already happened once, although I have no way to prove the remote start being at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would simply increase the crank time, but I'm worried about when it's not that cold out, or when it's very cold out but the engine is already warm. In that case, the car starts almost instantly, so the remote-start would be cranking way longer than necessary. This gives that high-pitched whine or &quot;whurr&quot; sort of sound before it stops cranking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that bad? Can I set the crank time to 1.5 or 2+ seconds, even when it may start after 0.2?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Remote-start is very important to me when it gets this cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4389" LastEditorUserId="4389" LastEditDate="2015-01-31T05:13:16.323" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T05:13:16.323" Title="Proper crank time for auto start to avoid damage/dead-battery" Tags="|starting|cold-start|remote-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8593" CreationDate="2014-01-28T16:57:14.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could also be upper or lower control arms from the sounds of it, before this started to happen did you hear or notice anything else?  maybe a popping sound around corners?  Bearings will make noise when going around a corner if they are wearing out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I know some Preludes from this era had 4 wheel steering,  does yours have this option?  If so this could be the cause of your troubles, as it was a passive 4 wheel steering system.  and Although it was more robust than the Super HI-CAS system found in Nissan's of the same era, it can cause vibrations if it is not in proper working order.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4390" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:57:14.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:34:48.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not worry too much about whether you are going to run out of battery power, especially if you keep the remote-start at a .8 second crank time. You will not burn up enough battery juice to cause yourself any issues. Your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;battery&lt;/a&gt; has several identifiers associated with it. A common one is &lt;strong&gt;CCA&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Cold Cranking Amps&lt;/strong&gt;. This shows you what the power output your battery has when in a closed state (+ and - are connected to &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; ... in this case, your starter). There is another term which is called, &lt;strong&gt;reserve capacity minutes&lt;/strong&gt; or reserve capacity for short. This explains how long a battery can maintain a certain amount of amperage for the number of minutes specified. For instance, my truck's battery is somewhere around a 75 minute capacity. Your car is probably around 60, unless you have a heavy duty one. If you are only cranking your engine for .8 seconds at a time, you are not burning into your reserve. Once the engine is started, it regenerates this power very quickly via the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to your questions. Is it bad for your to over run your starter? I will say, it isn't &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; for your starter, but it shouldn't hurt it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_starter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Starters&lt;/a&gt; have a device located in the tip where the gear is located. It's called an overrunning sprag clutch. The sprag clutch has, by its definition, a one-way bearing in it, which allows it to spin freely in one direction, yet is locked in the other direction. It is there for just the reason you describe. If you engage your starter for longer than you should, the engine starts, and the sprag spins freely allowing the gear to spin without pushing the starter armature. The gear gets spun up a little bit, but the starter itself is not harmed. It's just an awful noise which comes out of it. Not the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; thing to do, but is not going to cause it much issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for setting the crank time, I'll give you my suggestion. Depending on how much you can fine tune the time, I would start bumping it up about .2 seconds at a time until you can get it to a point where it might not start on the first of the three tries it will do, but will by the second or third without fail. This would give you the minimal crank time with the best chance of success on the first set of start tries. If you move it up to 1.0 seconds and it still won't start on the first set, put it up to 1.2 seconds, and so on. If your granularity is only .5 second intervals, use that. If you find in the summer months you are hearing the auto start causing the overrun on the starter, bring the start time back down to the .8 seconds. I do not know how hard this is to change, but would bet since you are willing to do it this time, it shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T20:10:57.843" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T20:10:57.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8638" CreationDate="2014-01-28T19:38:37.620" Score="1" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I turn the driver-side door key clockwise, release it, and turn it clockwise again, all the doors on the vehicle lock.  However, if I turn it counter-clockwise, release it, and turn it counter-clockwise again, only the drivers side door unlocks.  Is this lack of symmetry normal, or is there something wrong with my car?  If the behavior is normal for my car, is there any way to change it so I can unlock all doors with the key alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3809" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T19:01:13.423" Title="How to unlock all doors with the key on a 2006 Mazda" Tags="|mazda|locks|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8633" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:10:50.413" Score="3" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Rover 25 (2004, &amp;lt;50k) began overheating and the nearest-to-me-at-the-time garage (not my usual one) which I pulled in to diagnosed head gasket failure. They gave a £700 estimate for a new head gasket, skimming, and a big list of parts that 'should always be replaced at the same time', they said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is head gasket replacement a long-term fix in people's experience, or is it likely to recur again soon?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this sound reasonable for the repairs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks folks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4392" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T13:38:16.873" Title="Rover 25 Head Gasket replacement - is it a long-term fix?" Tags="|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-29T00:27:56.870" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth to filter the fuel / gasoil we buy from the fuel station before putting it in our car ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filterings may include &#xA;- removing small particles&#xA;- removing the water that might be in the fuel&#xA;- others ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T11:43:24.047" Title="Gasoil and fuel are known do contain a lot of undesirable wastes. Worth filtering them before use?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8635" CreationDate="2014-01-29T00:36:36.600" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I am driving in a BMW 318 TDS (gasoil) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;on flat terrain, at 70km/h, with only one passenger, at 2000rpm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;on a climbing terrain, at 70km/h, with 4 passengers and a loaded car at 2000rpm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does that affect what is actually happening in the engine ? Does the engine &quot;know&quot; that there is more work do to, and inject more gasoil ? If so, approximately, up to how many times more than on flat terrain ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T12:39:15.243" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T14:06:08.393" Title="How different is the injection phase in a BMW M41 Engine in flat terrain vs climbing terrain?" Tags="|bmw|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-29T00:52:04.977" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sometimes this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvpjEdGH8-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvpjEdGH8-A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine coughs for a long time before starting ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why, because, sometimes, with the same cold weather and cold engine, it starts very fast. How can that starting time vary so much ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T12:21:22.753" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T03:37:13.957" Title="BMW M41 cold start problems" Tags="|bmw|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2014-01-29T07:14:46.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have to say that it probably isn't worth the effort to pre-filter the fuel. In general, if you're buying fuel with noticeable water in it, then get your fuel somewhere else. The existing fuel filter (providing you're using a good quality one and not a $2 one) should be plenty sufficient to filter small particles etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hassle involved in buying your own bulk fuel and pre-filtering or even trying to rig up a pre filtering system to the inlet of your fuel tank seems like a lot of expense and effort for very little gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T07:14:46.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2014-01-29T10:26:24.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Done properly, a head gasket replacement should be a long-term fix. The K series had a reputation for fragile head gaskets, but this was improved with a change to the design - I think this came in around 2001, so yours should have it. There is also a subsequent change to the head gasket design introduced by Land Rover for the Freelander (which uses the same engine), that should be used when replacing a K-series head gasket, and makes the engine a lot stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds rather expensive to me though, I'd expect it to be around the £400 mark - what things were included on that list? It is worth talking to a Rover or Land Rover specialist if you have one nearby - What part of the country are you in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T10:26:24.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2014-01-29T11:43:24.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue of dirty fuel has been greatly mitigated by modern pollution control regulations. Twenty or thirty years ago a lot of underground storage tanks were steel. The steel was prone to rust. The rust would be caused by the water that would settle to the bottom of the tank. The water would be introduced into the tank from the ambient air that goes into the tank as it empties or ground water that seeps into the tank at any leak points. Modern tanks are for the most part non metallic fiberglass, hightech plastics etc. When the tanks are installed, most areas require some sort of fuel leak detection. If a leak that allowed groundwater into the tank occurred, fuel would also escape setting the fuel leak alarm. As fuel cost have risen electronic fuel volume monitoring is also prevalent. This monitors fuel in and fuel out. Any water leaks into the tank would be shown as a difference between fuel pumped and fuel stored. What all this means is prefiltering your fuel is not worth the effort unless you live in a remote area with a known issue of contaminated fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T11:43:24.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8629" CreationDate="2014-01-29T12:19:54.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you are traveling on flat land and transition to an uphill slope, whether you (the driver) realizes it or not, you must press the accelerator down further in order to maintain speed (or engine RPM). The vehicle control systems recognizes this and pushes more fuel into the system to compensate. This gives you more power to make it up the hill. If the grade is too steep and the load too heavy, the transmission (if automatic) will downshift to allow the engine to remain within it's peak power band and to get a better torque advantage. The powertrain control module (PCM) calculates engine load and output so as to apply the appropriate fuel mapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to actually calculate how much more fuel is injected or &quot;how many times more&quot; as you say, because there are too many factors involved. These factors are: grade of slope traversing, engine size, fuel mapping, how well tuned the vehicle is, and load size (including weight of vehicle and cargo). Just know that the further you press the &quot;go&quot; pedal, the more fuel you are using. With more load, even more fuel is being used to maintain the same speed and rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As noted from moderator Bob Cross, you as the vehicle operator (or a good mechanic) can attach a device to your OBDII port (if applicable) and devise this information. What I was saying is there is no way we can devise this information for you over the internet without a LOT more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T14:06:08.393" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T14:06:08.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22355" CreationDate="2014-01-29T13:42:02.357" Score="5" ViewCount="65719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that I have a knocking noise when I turn full lock or full opposite lock. The noise is a single knock as I reach lock and then another knock as I start turning back. I will intermittently get the same sound when accelerating hard/braking hard. The noise originates in the front right - presumably from the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have recently &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/8550/4339&quot;&gt;had a spring break on the left side of the car&lt;/a&gt;, I have checked this on the right side and the spring looks fine. The car in question is a 2001 Ford Focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T08:03:21.733" Title="Knocking noise when turning at full lock/opposite lock?" Tags="|ford|noise|focus|steering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-29T15:45:58.543" Score="6" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my 2007 Impala at a dealer for a routine lube, oil change, tire rotation,  and a NYS Vehicle Inspection.  Shortly after that I found puddles of water on the front passengers floor.  I took the car back to the dealer who said I had to go to a collision shop.  Collision shop fixed the problem and said someone had disconnected the drain hoses from both front door joints so as to make the rain water seep into the car.  I was told that the drain hoses do not fall off by themselves, someone has to manually disconnect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to go back to the dealer where I the lube and oil change and am a bit leery about them as I feel they may have caused the leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if the drain hoses must be removed in order to do the NYS vehicle inspection and their failure to be reattached might have been an oversight by the mechanic who worked on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4395" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T13:40:31.637" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T15:37:11.853" Title="Connection point on a 2007 Impala for vehicle inspection" Tags="|inspection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2014-01-29T19:01:13.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2004 Mazda3, turning the key and &lt;em&gt;holding it&lt;/em&gt; unlocks all doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T19:01:13.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2014-01-29T19:34:09.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be something wrong with your steering pump. Especially if this mostly happens when you have just started the car (cold engine) and are driving very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: if you have a steering fluid leak, this could be causing the steering pump to grind / knock. Try checking your steering fluid level and fill it up if it's running low. Then take it in to get it inspected - you may need a new pump, or at least to patch the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T08:35:37.813" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T08:35:37.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8652" CreationDate="2014-01-29T19:40:56.963" Score="4" ViewCount="58140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed an Alpine CDE-171RM dashboard on my car. Since it features an usb port, I was wondering if I could just plug a bluetooth usb dongle, or something similar, to have bluetooth audio streaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? My common sense would say no, since Alpine sells a bluetooth enabled dashboard identical to mine for 100$ more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, who knows? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4398" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T17:59:39.147" Title="Can I install a bluetooth dongle on my car's audio system?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2014-01-29T21:33:41.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the ball joints and tierod ends and control arm bushings. I have seen a lot of bad balljoints knock when the wheels hit the stops. I have also seen bad control arm bushings knock with acceleration and braking. Don't let it go for long without having it checked. If a ball joint or tierod separates you will loose control and your ability to steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T21:33:41.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-30T02:59:15.753" Score="5" ViewCount="7229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a code or some way of unlocking the Toyota navigation so that my passenger can type in destination info into it while the vehicle is moving. Can't enter anything into the navigation system when the van goes above 5mph. There is no law in Missouri to block this, so I would like it unlocked. Toyota says tough. I replied by saying that I guess my passenger would have to whip out my Garmin or paper map when I get into an unsafe area or can't pull over to the side of the road because there is none. The buyer of the vehicle should have to right to decide to use it or not, it's not Toyota's decision. Anyone have any answers? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4400" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T16:40:18.270" LastActivityDate="2022-09-05T18:32:18.067" Title="Enable using navigation system while moving on 2013 Toyota Sienna" Tags="|toyota|sienna|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2014-01-30T07:59:46.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its the Drop Links on one side or maybe even both side of the front suspension . Cheap and easy to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4404" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T11:39:12.650" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T11:39:12.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:00:24.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic EX and experienced the same issue under similar circumstances and have since solved the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Cold weather 2) Car was recently jump started 3) Receiving flashing green key indicator 4) Car starts then shuts off  5) Battery problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went outside one cold winter morning and the car was dead.  Click click click.  A friend of mine came by to try giving the car a jump, which allowed me to get the car to start, I could even rev the engine once or twice, but then, like something told it to, the car would die, all the while flashing a green key on on the dash display (This green key is in fact the indicator for the cars immobilizer system.  When you start the car with the key that matches your car, the green key will flash solid once, and the car will start fine.  If the key does not match your car, the green key will flash multiple times, at which point the car will die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I continued to reproduce the same results previously described, but eventually the battery would no longer recharge from just the power of my friends small sedan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, after being towed to my regular mechanic, and then the dealer, the stated problem was that one of the cells in the battery had gone bad, and I just needed a new one.  Looking closer at the bill from the dealer, they did in fact have to first reprogram my key to the cars computer.  The issue started with the immobilizer.  Apparently at some point, one of the two was scrambled, and my car was no longer accepting the key.  After a number of tries to jump the car in cold weather, with a bad battery, the immobilizer issue no longer mattered, because the car's battery no longer had enough juice left to allow for anything but some clicking, let alone starting and activating the immobilizer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short story long, I did a little digging and what seems to cause the key and the car to no longer communicate properly (which activates the immobilizer) is jump starting the car with the key in the ignition.  This should be a no brainer to begin with, but it happens, obviously.  &lt;strong&gt;Don't have your keys in the ignition when jump starting your car.&lt;/strong&gt;  It is possible that the key can be in the first of the three ignition positions without causing the problem, but I'm not going to try and find out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the dealer (and some competent honda mechanics) can quickly reprogram your key to the cars immobilizer unit (literally found right under the ignition).  Unfortunately, the issue is typically paired with a battery problem, and if you can't get the car to start, it needs to be towed in order to be reprogrammed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're experiencing this problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Bypass your regular mechanic and have the car towed to a Honda dealer.  Your car's immobilizer needs to be reprogrammed.  Tell them the circumstances leading up to the problem, including anything involving recently jump starting the vehicle, the green flashing key light, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Inform them of Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 09012005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make : HONDA Model : CIVIC Year : 2006&#xA;Manufacturer : HONDA (AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.)&#xA;Service Bulletin Num : 09012005&#xA;Date of Bulletin: SEP 01, 2005&#xA;NHTSA Item Number: 10018480&#xA;Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM&#xA;Summary:&#xA;NEW IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM ON '06 CIVICS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  Make it clear you want the immobilizer checked first.  Don't let them tell you you need to buy a new key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)  Even with all of the information out there, this seems to be a puzzle to some dealers, so don't be afraid to call every day to check on the status (most likely, they will be calling you first).  If days have gone by, and they have not tried reprogramming the immobilizer unit, something is fishy, and it is time to insist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5)  Wait for the phone call back from the dealer telling you either it was simply the immobilizer issue, or that you need a new battery.  In the latter case, don't expect to necessarily hear/see anything about the immobilizer issue until you get the bill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6)  When you get the car back, and you start it for the first time, your radio will ask you to enter a code before it will allow any audio to be played.  If you have lost the card that has this code on it that should have come with the car in the first place, check for a white sticker on the body of the glove box, normally outer left side.  It will most likely be a 5 digit number next to a longer serial number.  Use the displays buttons to enter the code.  If you can't find this sticker, head to the Honda Navicode Website to retrieve it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://radio-navicode.honda.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7)  If, like the original poster, you have had a remote starter installed in your vehicle, the mechanic who installed it would have had to put an &quot;immobilizer bypass&quot; unit in the car, in order for the remote starter to work.  As these bypass units are doing just that, bypassing the immobilizer, they are typically not the issue in this circumstance.  In fact, the car can often be started with the remote start and not the key, specifically because the remote starter bypasses the immobilizer all-together.  Either way, be sure to let whomever is working on the car know about the remote starter, just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4410" LastEditorUserId="4410" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T17:42:41.610" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T17:42:41.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8649" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:04:28.797" Score="5" ViewCount="23729" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2001 Honda Civic. Having the temp dial to HOT. When I turn the air flow dial from FRONT to Defrost (windshield), it turns on the A/C button and the A/C motor kicks in also. It just started doing this. So now I can't defrost my windshield. Air flow does come out the windshield. No check engine light. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4409" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T19:58:13.410" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T16:22:31.137" Title="When I set the air flow to Defrost, it turns on the A/C?" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|ac|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8648" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:20:08.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal behavior. The A/C system is turned on to dehumidify the air, which causes the windshield to defog. Without it, your breath would freeze on the inside of the windshield and cause further issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Please note Bob Cross' comments below.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I found instructions on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1736447&quot;&gt;Honda Tech Forum&lt;/a&gt; which is supposed to give you full manual control over this, but warn you I do not suggest you do this, nor do I know if it actually works. Please perform at your own risk:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIY: Turn Off Automatic A/C Turn-On&#xA;What you will need: Two Fingers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Needed: 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annoyed with how you can't turn off the A/C when you turn to defog? Here's the override (realize that A/C expediates the defog process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Car Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Temperature Knob To Full Blue (All the way to the left - Counter-Clock Wise)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Vent Knob To Off (All the way to the left - Counter-Clock Wise)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold Down Air Recirculation Button As Well As A/C Button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep Both Buttons Depressed and Start Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep Both Buttons Depressed for 7 Seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;AC LIGHT SHOULD BLINK&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will now have control of your A/C regardless of what setting you are in, to revert back, simply repeat the procedue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T19:48:17.037" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T19:48:17.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2014-01-30T18:53:51.233" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue may be in brake fluid: it gets too much water from the air, and when you brake on highway brake cylinders get hot and water in brake fluid start to vaporise, creating gas bubbles in fluid, so you need to apply additional force on the pedal to compress it. According to common maintenance guides, brake fluid needs to be changed every two or three years. Change it (about 1 litre total), inspect pads, rotors and cylinders and test brakes again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4412" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T21:09:43.423" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T21:09:43.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8640" CreationDate="2014-01-31T07:49:12.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't count on it. As Nick C said, you'd need one that acts like a USB storage device, which means that you'd have to specifically buy one. Regular bluetooth adapters simply act as a bluetooth antenna, and don't have the bluetooth software stack loaded onto their internal circuits. But you do get fancier ones, which cost more. Alternatively, you could have a bluetooth system installed on the Auxiliary port of the unit, but then you might as well just go trade it for the bluetooth-enabled model. It will work out much cheaper that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get one of these things and just load all your songs on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kaq81.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if that's not an option, get a quote for someone to install an SPDIF cable so that you can plug it straight into your phone/device.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8G2ET.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T08:47:09.613" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T08:47:09.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8658" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:11:04.910" Score="3" ViewCount="4274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my '97 civic for a little over a year now. Sometimes I park the car on an uphill road, pulling the handbrake right up, but when I get out, or get back in, the car still moves a bit, and i have to pull the handbrake even higher. How do I adjust this? thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T11:37:07.533" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T12:04:48.330" Title="How to adjust handbrake on civic 1997" Tags="|honda|civic|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8659" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:16:05.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I bought my civic 1997, a year ago, the driver side headlight has been shining weak. I changed the bulb once, it still shows weak. I took it to the electrician, he turned a nut tight and it worked for a couple of months, but now it's shining weak again. Could anyone tell me why this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T11:35:53.123" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T13:18:00.043" Title="How to fix weak headlight" Tags="|electrical|honda|civic|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8663" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:22:17.697" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my 97 civic for a year now and the battery died about 3 months after I bought the car. Each time it died, I'd kick start it, drive for a few days, then it would die again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went to the electrician who told me that the battery is not keeping the charge and should be replaced. When I replaced it a few weeks in, that battery died as well. This time I went to a different electrician who tells me to have the dealer give me a better battery, because that battery isn't keeping the charge either.&#xA;He did say that everything else seems to work fine. Could it be that there is something wrong with the car and not the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the car switched off while I was driving and I had to wait two hours to kick start it and go home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:47:37.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:47:37.327" Title="Battery dies frequently" Tags="|electrical|honda|battery|civic|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8729" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:39:59.097" Score="2" ViewCount="17744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '97 civic sedan.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I want to lower the front of my car and lift the rear, or keep it standard. &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;now the body of the car is suspended a little higher than 100mm over the tyre of the car, but it seems low already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the car lower, but not ridiculously low, a space should still exist between the wheels and the car, what is the higher option between a 40mm and 60mm spring? does the car get lowered 60mm, or will it be suspended 60mm over the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="4418" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T13:41:08.377" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:01:42.223" Title="what is the difference between a 40mm and 60 mm springs" Tags="|honda|civic|suspension|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8654" CreationDate="2014-01-31T12:04:48.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an adjuster behind the handbrake lever - if you look on the back of the centre console there should be a small removable cover at floor level (I have a feeling this varies by trim level - you might have to remove the console completely), pop this off with a small screwdriver and you should see the adjuster behind it. It consists of a nut on a threaded rod coming from the lever, which moaves the balance bar, which in turn pulls on the two cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before adjusting it, check that the balance bar is roughly even when the handbrake is applied - if it is pulling much more on one cable than the other, you may have a siezed mechanism on one side (it appears this is quite common on certain Civics of that era, particularly those with rear disc brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is even, you adjust the handbrake by tightening the nut on the adjuster. It is a trial and error process, I usually go for the following approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chock the front wheels and put the car in gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up the rear of the car and support it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the handbrake, adjust it by 2-3 flats (i.e. 1/3 to 1/2 a turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the handbrake 3-4 clicks, try to turn the rear wheels by hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the last two steps until you just can't turn the wheels with the handbrake applied, and they turn freely with it released.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a siezed mechanism, I'll post the method I used to un-stick mine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T12:04:48.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8655" CreationDate="2014-01-31T13:18:00.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A poor ground will give you the symptoms you are seeing. A wiring diagram will show you that there is a ground but not where it is located. The diagram I found shows a frame ground that is a black wire. I would start by looking for the black wire on the offending headlight and follow it away from the light as far as you can. If you are lucky at some point you will see a black wire that is screwed or bolted to the frame or body of the car. Remove the screw clean the area around the hole with some coarse sandpaper or a stiff wire brush until you see bare metal. Reinstall the screw if you are unable to get the screw tight due to hole being to large get a larger sheet metal so you can get it tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T13:18:00.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24251" CreationDate="2014-01-31T14:45:04.577" Score="6" ViewCount="31624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idling issue with my Renault Clio mk2 1.2L 2002 - the engine stalls as I slow down at lights and roundabouts etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been searching the web for solutions to this problem, Most answers point towards the Idle Air Control valve needing cleaning/replacing - I am now trying to locate it in the engine I did find a diagram, however I am not sure if it is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qkGk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get to the IACV, or even better do you have a few pictures/video demonstrating how to access it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4419" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T05:38:55.727" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T15:06:18.987" Title="How to access the Idle Air Control Valve, Renault Clio mk2" Tags="|renault|air-intake|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8665" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:22:20.163" Score="8" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on using an ODB Bluetooth reader on my car and leaving it plugged in to use apps like Dash and Torque. &#xA;It's a daily driver so I'm not that worried about depleting the car's battery, but I was curious how much amperage that port would suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4398" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T23:13:57.270" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T23:13:57.270" Title="How much battery does an ODB Bluetooth reader suck?" Tags="|electrical|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8656" CreationDate="2014-01-31T19:43:29.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did these electricians check your voltage with it turned off and when it is running? Should be about 10-12 volts dc when turned off and about 14-15 volts when running. You can check this yourself with a cheap multimeter from a hardware or parts store.&#xA;It could also be your starter. Some develop dead spots as they get older.&#xA;That clicking sound is either your starter relay or your starter solenoid.&#xA;The other thing to check is the ground wires or straps. One should go from the negative on your battery to the engine or body. There should also be a ground from the engine or battery to the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4420" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T19:43:29.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2014-01-31T21:14:05.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure of your exact solution, but Brian Blum of &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20140801032026/http:/www.iar.com/Global/Resources/Viewpoints/Bluetooth%C2%AE%20low%20energy,%20A%20Very%20Low%20Power%20Solution.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Texas Instruments&lt;/a&gt; says the amperage draw depends on what state the device is in, of which there are seven states. According to the document in the link, it draws as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 1 (wake-up) - 6.1mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 2 (pre-processing) - 8.1 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 3 (pre-RX) - 12.3 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 4 (RX) - 22.3 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 5 (Rx-to-Tx) - 11.1 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 6 (Tx) - 29.3 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 7 (Post processing) - 8.1 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are for the device listed in the document, but should be about the same. As you can see, these are very small amounts of draw. I would also bet, if you look at your device specs, when the vehicle is off, your device is off: no power consumption during this time. For your edification, it takes 1000 mA to make one (1) Amp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T20:13:19.807" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T20:13:19.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-01T01:08:44.430" Score="2" ViewCount="3864" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 chevy suburban 1500 4/4 5.7 liter vortec ... My truck won't start when I turn the key. I get nothing like its not getting juice. But when I use a test light it has juice on the starter. So when I take my test light to the crank fuse and then turn it over it starts and runs fine. When I turn it off, it does the same thing ... Any ideas what could be going on? ... confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4423" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:09:47.077" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:09:47.077" Title="Truck won't start with key, but will remote start" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|wiring|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-01T09:40:19.710" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford focus 2009 (UK) Power steering seems to cutout whilst stationary and kick back in when moving. Is this normal. Power fluid is black/dirty. Garage changed fluid but only 'sucked out reservoir and topped up'. This improved feel temporarily but no change to cutting out at standstill. Could dirty fluid indicate wearing/broken parts? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-01T14:07:11.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:13:05.380" Title="Power steering seems to cutout whilst stationary." Tags="|ford|focus|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8671" CreationDate="2014-02-01T21:00:31.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in an accident about a month ago and I'm trying to figure out a good way to repair the damage (I'm a college student and the car has no collision on it, so having it fixed is gonna be tight on my wallet). I brought it to one place and they wanted like $4500 to fix it. I brought it to Maaco today, I'll see what they come up with on Monday, but if I had to guess I'd say they'll do it for $3500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the first guy wanted to charge me $800 for the bumper (OEM), $350 for a hood (Aftermarket), $500 for the radiator support (OEM), and $260 for the grille. When all is said and done, the price of parts came out to $2500 (I left some others out), then add about $2000 for labor, paint, and tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an identical car (albeit different color) on Craigslist that's being parted out. I gave him a call and he said he'd give me all the aforementioned parts for $250. Now the thing is, that seems like a no-brainer to me as long as the parts are in good, working condition. I'm just not sure if any body shops will entertain me buying the parts separately. It's kind of like bringing your own food to a restaurant I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of the damage if you're curious. I'm having problems with the image uploading tool, so I'm just gonna post the direct links. It's a 2001 Audi A4, 2.8L engine, AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wsbR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLNuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/44hWN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xpgwn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIMyP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAW5G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4422" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2022-10-10T20:54:51.877" LastActivityDate="2022-10-10T20:54:51.877" Title="Most acceptable way to get parts off another car?" Tags="|parts|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8670" CreationDate="2014-02-01T22:42:00.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would believe most body shops will do the work with you bringing them the parts. I recently had to replace the bumper on my Mo-n-Law's car. I bought one online, took it to the body shop, they painted it, and I brought it home and installed it. They charged me a set price for getting it painted. There was no issue with them doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you said the car which you are getting the parts off of is exactly the same, I'm assuming you are saying it is a color match to your car as well. If so, you should be able to use these parts without having to paint them. This will save you a ton of money. The body shop will not warranty these parts, though, for obvious reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, if the body shop you've talked to won't do this, go find another body shop. &#xA;Like I said, most body shops will use the parts you provide. They want the business, or they don't. Should not be an issue either way, as there are plenty of other body shops to be had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T22:42:00.540" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8683" CreationDate="2014-02-02T00:37:58.950" Score="6" ViewCount="12089" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 4 wheeling the other day I realized I had the dreaded death wobble. I think it's worth mentioning that I am a college student, and I don't really have ideal conditions to work on my jeep, but I have most of the tools that I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have replaced my stock track-bar bushing with a Poly MOOG bushing, but that did not fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I just got my tires aligned, since they have been pretty out of alignment for a while now. Getting the tires aligned fixed my alignment problem, but not my death wobble. Dealer said that the &quot;tie rod ends&quot; looked OK. I'm not sure what that means really, but at least that is one suspect we can eliminate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do next? It seems like replacing the steering stabilizer might be a good next step, but before I dish out $40 to $80 on a stabilizer, I want to make sure there isn't a cheaper solution that I should try first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this problem can be caused by a variety of different things, but I'm new to the area I'm living in, and there's no mechanics/dealerships I trust to troubleshoot this for me so I would really appreciate if y'all could help me get this fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:50:48.943" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:50:48.943" Title="Jeep TJ death wobble troubleshooting" Tags="|troubleshooting|jeep|wrangler|death-wobble|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8673" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-02T00:39:54.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The death wobble can be caused by a very large variety of problems which can make trouble shooting and repairing it very difficult and expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The death wobble can make a car or motorcycle undriveable and unsafe to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:13:11.953" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:13:11.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8674" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-02T00:39:54.600" Score="0" Body="Uncontrollable shaking of a steering wheel and/or chassis of a vehicle or handlebars of a motorcycle.  " OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:03:58.790" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:03:58.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8678" CreationDate="2014-02-02T03:40:33.260" Score="5" ViewCount="4166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford Focus (EU/UK spec) and I'm planning a road trip to Europe. My research shows that they serve up something called E85 at their petrol pumps in addition to petrol and diesel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of some more high performance cars being able to run on petrol or E85 but I'm not sure if this is relevant for lower performance standard passenger vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use ethanol instead of petrol in my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any additional factors I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T11:40:12.070" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:13:01.933" Title="Can I use ethanol instead of petrol in my car?" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8676" CreationDate="2014-02-02T13:07:00.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is capable of running e85, it would announce itself as a flexfuel (or e85 capable) vehicle (through badging or via salesperson). You don't want to run e85 if your vehicle is not ready for it, as it will eat through seals and other soft parts in your vehicle's fuel system. If your car is not set up to run it, don't run it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So everyone knows, e85 fuel is made to contain 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline/petrol. Ethanol is an alcohol, which is produced through the fermentation of sugars and other bio-based renewable resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for running e85, be aware that it does not contain as much energy per liter as regular gas/petrol, so your mileage will be decreased as well. As a rule of thumb, e85 is said to contain about 30% less energy than 100% gas/petrol (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia source&lt;/a&gt;). I don't know how it is in Europe, but e85 is cheaper per unit than regular gas/petrol here in the US and that really depends on where you are exactly, as some locations it is cheaper by far, while yet other locals it is nearly the same .... strange mixed up world we live in. My point there is, you may save a little money up front on the cost of the fuel, but ultimately if the cost difference is not that much, you may end up paying more per mile to travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to run a VIN check to see if your vehicle is e85 capable. Considering the age of your vehicle, I would assume it was not specifically setup to run it though. Not knowing where you are from in Europe (or more accurately, where your car is from ... UK? EU?), I cannot really say for sure. Just know e85 capable cars really didn't start getting produced in quantity until a couple of years after yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T13:07:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2014-02-02T16:59:13.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of any others with the same problem, I'll add an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After eliminating the signs of a blown headgasket, i.e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine sputtering under load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White smoke from the exhaust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bubbling coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;milky coolant in the reservoir&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chocolate milk-like deposit on the dip stick and/or rocker cap(yellow cap pictured)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing to do is to have a Carbon Monoxide test performed on your engine's coolant. This has to be done at a workshop because it entails the use of special equipment for detecting this invisible gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Carbon Monoxide is found in the coolant, it would mean that the gasket blew in such a way that a tiny amount of exhaust gas is leaking into the cooling system, thus heightening the pressure in the pipes and causing the weakest link to burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if no Carbon Monoxide is found and all other symptoms have been eliminated, the only other thing that could possibly cause this amount of over-pressure would be an air pocket somewhere in the system. This can be remedied by removing the radiator cap or expansion bottle cap and letting the car idle until the fan comes on, at which point you can turn the aircon to HOT and let it blow on full until some bubbles start to come up out of the coolant and the level goes down, filling the space left by the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is still not the answer, it could just be that the pipe had perished and was in need of replacement. In which case it is well worth the extra 30 minutes to 2 hours it would take to replace the others. Unless you like standing on the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T16:59:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8727" CreationDate="2014-02-02T18:22:34.860" Score="5" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Seat Leon FR TDi and need to change one of the fuel pipe (which has become torn slightly). The hose is ~ £50 + VAT so I am keen to do it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise if the fuel in my car is under pressure and if I would be able to change this hose without getting a face full of diesel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose is the bottom on in this picture (blue band).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcWCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s26.photobucket.com/user/crmpicco/media/Leon%20MK2%20FR/67D438D5-E6BF-4222-A9AF-1F9CAE41F70F_zpskpwtvnsd.jpg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leon Engine Bay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:35:28.630" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:35:28.630" Title="Is the fuel in my engine under pressure?" Tags="|fuel-system|audi|seat-cars|seat-leon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1876" CreationDate="2014-02-02T19:48:09.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water is heavier than gas and will stay at the bottom of the tank. True, after a little driving the water will mix somewhat with the gas so your going to get a little water sucked up anyway. I like to run as low as I dare so as to get as much water out as posible. A small amount of water running through the engine won't hurt, in fact in some cases a little water is good.(ever hear of water injection) Debrie I don't worry about but I do worry about the extra water produced by the use of ethanol. Best to run this water out a little at a time rather than to let it sit and destroy your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4440" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T19:48:09.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2014-02-02T21:46:46.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled some information from another site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepz.com/forum/suspension/29510-wrangler-death-wobble-what-causes-how-fix.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;jeepz.com&lt;/a&gt;). It looks fairly exhaustive in what should be done to fix the dreaded death wobble. I originally thought the death wobble was only due to a bad wheel bearing, but it appears there is much more to it. I am going to pull what it says on the jeepz.com website. Here is what the site says about what exactly is &amp;quot;death wobble&amp;quot; or DW for short (so everyone has a clue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Death Wobble is the shaking that happens when the front end components of your Jeep end up reacting to, or fighting each other - the end result is a violent shaking of the wheel, the Jeep itself shaking like crazy, and you eventually needing new pair of shorts. Death wobble is most commonly seen in Jeeps that have just been lifted, but can also be found in stock Jeeps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two aspects that contribute to make death wobble. First something to begins to wobble, like a tire imbalance or hitting a pothole or bump in the road. The second aspect is generally a loose or worn part that allows the minor wobble to escalate into full-blown death wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe-in, caster setting, and tire balance all help contribute to the beginning of a wobble. Loose/worn parts like the front track bar, steering, and control arm bushings contribute to the second phase, when the wobble is exaggerated into DW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you go replacing parts, here is something you should look at doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the cheapest option first, which is tightening up all the loose components on your Jeep. Here are the common torque specs for a Wrangler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ft. Lbs. (max - min)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock Absorber Upper Nut 23 - 17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock Absorber Lower Nut 28 - 25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension Arm Lower Axle Bracket Nut 176 - 130&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension Arm Lower Frame Bracket Nut 176 - 130&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension Arm Upper Axle Bracket Nut 81 - 60&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension Arm Upper Frame Bracket Bolt 81 - 60&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stabilizer Bar Retainer Bolts 61 - 45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut 61 - 45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Bolt 102 - 75&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trackbar Ball Stud Nut 81 - 60&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track Bar Axle Bracket Bolt 47 - 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub/Bearing Bolts 102 - 75&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub/Bearing Axle Nut 237 - 175&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jounce Cup Bolt 42 - 31&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/urethane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected and premature bushing wear may occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What follows now are the ten reasons their site suggests can cause (or exacerbates) DW:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 1 - Alignment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Alignment - an out of align suspension can contribute to death wobble. If you've recently installed a lift kit then you'll need to either get an alignment or do one yourself.. If you get it aligned, make sure you go to a shop that can (and will) adjust your caster, either by caster bolts or via adjustable control arms (note that several years of Wranglers do not have caster bolts from the factory, and will need to be upgraded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 2 - Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unbalanced tires&lt;/strong&gt; - unbalanced tires will exacerbate death wobble. Try moving your front tires to the back and see if there is a difference, if there is then pay to have them balanced. If a tire/wheel requires more than 6 ounces of total balance weights you should probably not run it on the front of your Jeep (move to the rear axle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason tire balance plays a role in death wobble is that something needs to start the wobble, and an unbalanced tire that hits a bump will normally be enough to put the front suspension in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire damage&lt;/strong&gt; - In addition to balancing, you should verify that your tires are round, and don't have any warping. Put front end up on jack stands. Spin both tires to check for excessive wheel/tire runout or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inflation&lt;/strong&gt; - verify that your tires are running at the correct pressure. Over-inflation can cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 3 - Caster Angle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caster Angle - When you install longer coil springs or spacers on your Jeep, the tire will be pushed down, away from the Jeep, but the control arms will tend to pull the axle back. The fix for this is to move the axle forward slightly, either via cam bolts or adjustable control arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cam bolts are adjustable bolts that were installed on earlier TJs that allow you to easily dial in your caster angle. If your Jeep doesn't have cam bolts, they can normally be purchased at the dealership. If you have a larger lift than cam bolts can accommodate for, you will want to look into longer upper or lower (or both) control arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger your tires are, the less caster you'll generally need. It's been reported that Jeeps running 35 inch tires do well with 5 - 5.5* of caster, but as with everything your mileage may vary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 4 - Track Bar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trackbar - Check to see if your axle is out of center (if the axle sticks out farther on the driver side than the passenger). This is caused by a trackbar that is too short. Also check that your trackbar is tight, and the mount holes have not &amp;quot;wobbled out&amp;quot;. Verify that your track bar bushings are good, and don't have any slop in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 5 - Control Arm Bushings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control arm bushings&lt;/strong&gt; - Check to make sure that your control arm bushings are not worn out. These rubber bushings will often get enlarged and allow for slop in the suspension system. Remove an upper control arm and inspect the bushing, looking for cracked and worn rubber, replace and do the same for a lower control arm. Skip this step if you are getting new control arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 6 - Control Arms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustable control arms - if the cam bolts were not enough to return the proper axle angle or your control arms are too short for your lift, you may need new adjustable control arms. This is really just an extension of number 3, caster angle. Longer control arms will push your axle farther forward than stock control arms, allowing you to increase your caster angle. An added benefit of new control arms is that you&amp;quot;ll get fresh new bushings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 7 - Steering Stabilizer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn out stabilizer seldom causes the problem, but it does add to it. Replacing the stabilizer will help dampen any vibrations - make no mistake though, just because the stabilizer has reduced vibrations that you feel, the vibrations are still present in your suspension system, and will ultimately surface again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 8 - Warped Rotors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's not common, warped rotors can start your death wobble in motion. If you don't have anti-lock brakes, drive down the interstate and press the brakes in order to stop quickly, if your rotors are warped, you'll feel the pedal fluctuate. Note that anti-lock brakes will mask the pulsating feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 9 - Worn Tie-Rod Ends&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn or bent tie-rod end will allow more play in your steering system, and can cause death wobble. A good method to check for slop in your tie rod is to jack up the front of your Jeep, grasp a front tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and wiggle the tire. Have a friend watch the tie rod for any movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DW - Cause 10 - Worn Wheel Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn wheel bearing will contribute to Death Wobble as well. Lift your front axle up, and grasp your tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempt to wiggle your tire. If you feel any movement then you've likely got worn wheel bearings and they should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you'll find your answer here somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: Please remember, this is pulled from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepz.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jeepz&lt;/a&gt; website.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T21:46:46.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22842" CreationDate="2014-02-03T08:27:17.547" Score="2" ViewCount="20755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought this kind of device for my &quot;Citroen C4 Coupe&quot; with the RD4 - N1 radio (Label: Blaupunkt):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Belkin-Cast-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Freisprechfunktion-schwarz/dp/B004FNYQZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1391414899&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=bluetooth%20transmitter%20auto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluetooth-Transmitter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I realised, that the radio doesn't come with a standard aux-in. So I decided to install it myself. After informing myself a little bit, I bought those two components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AUX-IN ADAPTER CITROEN &amp;amp; PEUGEOT (from Amazon)&#xA;AUDIO ADAPTER, 3,5mm (from Amazon)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After plugging in the Aux-In Adapter hopefully correct, I realised that nothing happened. So after searching for a while, I read in some forums, that the citroen c4 car dealer has to &lt;strong&gt;unlock&lt;/strong&gt; the aux-input. Today I was at a nearby dealer and he told me, it would cost up to 50 or 60 Euro. That's basically to much I guess! ???? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is a ford car mechanics, he could give me a can-bus for my car. &#xA;Maybe he also could give me the laptop, but more interesting: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WHERE DO I GET THE SOFTWARE TO UNLOCK IT?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or How is it named? I can do the rest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greetings from germany&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4442" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:21:20.330" Title="Citroen C4 Coupe Radio (RD4-N1) - Unlocking Aux-Input" Tags="|audio|can-bus|citroen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-03T15:07:36.137" Score="2" ViewCount="5649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride 2009 Kawasaki 900 Vulcan Custom Edition. I love my motorcycle but I want to modify the big cluster gauge that I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQubx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kawasaki Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have new gauges on handle bar. I want Speedometer, Tachometer, oil temp gauge, fuel gauge, and the rest of my current lights in small cluster. Something similar to this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Db8LO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GlowShift&lt;/a&gt; gauges which are meant for automotive use, I talked to customer support and they said that I can use it on motorcycle just need to place them in waterproof cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I'm not sure what kinds of wiring issue I might run into to when replacing gauges, should I purchase or build waterproof housing. Where should I start on this project and what do I need to know to ensure succession completion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I get rid of my huge gauge on the tank I want to add tablet to store some data and act as GPS and etc. but that is another question for another time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:13:08.110" Title="What is the process of adding/replacing gauges to motorcycle?" Tags="|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8680" CreationDate="2014-02-03T15:30:13.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel fuel system has (extremely) high presure between the injector in the engine and the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has pressure in the normal fuel lines too, but not that large. After the change do not forget to remove the excess air from the fuel line!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T15:30:13.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-03T16:01:44.617" Score="12" ViewCount="155601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Element.  The owners manual states the brake fluid should be &quot;replaced&quot; every 3 years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I asked the dealer to replace the brake fluid, they said it was going to cost $190.  I told them last time they did it, it was only $27.  They said it was expensive because they were going to hook it up to a sort of dialysis machine to &quot;flush&quot; it out.  The owners manual doesn't say anything about this.  I can see where flushing could be helpful, but is it really necessary?  If so, how often should it be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4445" LastEditorUserId="4445" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T03:33:02.277" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T02:41:28.653" Title="Is it necessary to flush brake fluid?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2014-02-03T16:50:56.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have struggled with the Death Wobble in my 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. It would only happen at EXACTLY 45 MPH, but once it started it would continue +/- 20 MPH. Once past 45, it would not start unless I hit a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I replaced the steering stabilizer ($40 on eBay), then it would subside for ~2-3 months, but always return. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I tried that didn't help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebalancing Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front end alignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Bar adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing ball joints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing tie rod ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebalancing Wheels (again)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I got new tires and it hasn't happened since, but I suspect that if I let them wear unevenly again the wobble would return. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have the same issue you're going to be out $800+. My tires weren't entirely worn out, but they were worn unevenly and I don't think there's a way to fix that once they're messed up enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T01:45:49.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T01:45:49.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8687" CreationDate="2014-02-03T21:52:36.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you replace brake fluid you are &quot;flushing&quot; the system. The way you do it, all old break fluid will be removed and new fluid in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should do this as your owner's manual prescribes. I believe normal intervals are either two or three years as your manual says. Some manufacturers may have something else, so start there first. The reason for this is that brake fluid absorbs water over time. When fresh fluid is in the system, the fluid is in a dry state. When it gets old and absorbs water, it is in a &quot;wet&quot; state. Depending on the fluid you are using (usually DOT3 or DOT4), as brake fluid becomes wet, it will boil at a lower temperature. This becomes important, because as you use the brakes, the fluid gains temperature due to friction of the brakes and such. As the fluid gets older, it has the propensity to boil easier, which will cause bubbles in your brake lines. These bubbles will compress where the liquid will not, thus reducing the effectiveness of your braking system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change the brake fluid, you start by bleeding the brakes at the furthest point away from the master cylinder. In left hand drive cars (US), start at the bake right. For you peoples across the pond, I suspect your master cylinder is on the right side of the car, so start with the back left. Then go to the opposite side and do the other rear brake. Then move to the front on the side you started with. On four wheel vehicles you only have on wheel left. When you are done with all four wheels using this method, all old brake fluid will have been changed. This can be accomplished using a power bleeder, or the old have a friend pump the brakes for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the brake fluid is one of the most overlooked maintenance items in your vehicle. People just don't think about it unless there is a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT (to answer your edit):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the general rule of thumb for &lt;strong&gt;replacement is recommended at two years&lt;/strong&gt;. You can tell how your own brake fluid is doing by shining a flashlight through the liquid (easy on a white plastic type master cylinder ... take the top off on older metal reservoirs and shine the flashlight down into the liquid). When brake fluid is new, it has a very light amber color to it. As it gets to the point of needing changed, it becomes a darker amber color. It may even get to the point where it is dark brown or even black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the price you were quoted, my first rule of thumb is ... stay away from dealerships for regular maintenance items (like oil changes, radiator flushes, brake fluid replacement, etc) unless you get free scheduled maintenance from them. This is just my opinion, but my experience tells me dealerships overcharge on these types items. Chain stores are not going to be much better as far as cost and they tend to try and do add-on items (ie: you go in for an oil change and they tell you you need to have x, y, and z done as well). Find a smaller local maintenance shop you can trust (usually found through word of mouth) and use them. Your cost is going to usually be the best at these locations. Mind you, there are always going to be deals to be had, keep on the look out for these from your dealerships. Other than cost, there is usually no problems using a dealership, so please do not misunderstand. In the US, there is no requirement to have maintenance items accomplished at a dealership to maintain your warranty. (I'm not sure about the legality of this in other countries.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the dealership, you said &quot;&lt;em&gt;they were going to hook it up to a sort of dialysis machine to &quot;flush&quot; it out&lt;/em&gt;.&quot; This cracks me up because this is normal operating procedure for a single mechanic (without help) to perform this service. It actually makes it easier, quicker, and cheaper (less man hours) for them and they want to charge more for it. It appears by quite a bit, actually. I cannot tell you what the price would be, but shop around a little bit and you are probably going to find a better price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T11:50:44.730" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T11:50:44.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2014-02-03T22:16:21.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;NEVER, EVER go into neutral while slowing down to a stop, for 3 reasons:&#xA;1. You lose the added benefit of engine braking if the car's not in gear&#xA;2. If you have to quickly avoid something by accelerating and moving out of the way, you'll hit the gas and won't go anywhere&#xA;3. If the light turns green before you come to a complete stop, you'd have to go back into drive while moving. And you should only go into drive when stopped, really, really bad things may happen to your transmission if you shift to drive while moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T22:16:21.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9457" CreationDate="2014-02-04T07:09:02.933" Score="3" ViewCount="4988" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was related with this  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2013/what-is-the-difference-between-normal-platinum-iridium-plugs&quot;&gt;What is the difference between normal, platinum, iridium plugs?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Is there any difference if petrol vehicle is converted to liquid propane gas (LPG)? In my case I have Volvo with engine &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Modular_engine#B5254T&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B5254T&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The B5254T is turbocharged with a low pressure turbo (LPT) producing a maximum of 6 psi (41 kPa).[16] Output is 190 hp (142 kW; 193 PS) at 5100 rpm with 199 lb·ft (270 N·m) of torque at 1800 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Owner manual recommend platinum plugs. But how about when engine operates with LPG? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/lpg-compatibility&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NGK&lt;/a&gt; website says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two critical factors that need to be understood when converting a vehicle from petrol to LPG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;LPG burns hotter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;LPG increases the voltage requirement at the&#xA;  electrode gap In an attempt to correct these two factors, as a general&#xA;  rule we suggest to:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use a spark plug that is one heat range colder than standard to&#xA;  compensate for the increased heat from LPG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The temperature profile of an engine may vary between vehicles. As&#xA;  such, the effect of LPG on the operating temperature of one vehicle&#xA;  may not be the same for another vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use basic copper plugs and change it at shorter interval? And how about performance? Can it decrease if I am using copper plugs? And if I am using copper plugs, does it hurt to engine?   At this moment I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngk.de/en/sales/products-and-assortments/spark-plugs/lpg-laserline/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NGK LPG LaserLine plugs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pef8e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NGK LPG LaserLine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can I just use platinum plugs (OEM or equivalent) if engine is operating with LPG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T16:05:54.147" Title="What is the difference between normal, platinum, iridium plugs in petrol/LPG vehicle?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9002" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:53:24.663" Score="5" ViewCount="2784" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle has LPG as alternative fuel. It have OMVL REG injectors without temp sensors. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLJMO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OMVL REG injectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has already ~ 60000 km (In picture you can see, that one injector not used; 3 from left). Check engine light start coming on, and i cannot anymore adjust calibration for LPG and i bought new LPG injectors. After that i disassemble old one. In picture no 1, injector with number 3 was not used. Only moving part of injector are in my fingers in picture no 2. It one side is spring and another side is rubber. In picture no 4 it is just electromagnet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in picture 1, all rubbers looks identical in its thickness (injector no 3 not used at all). What part can be run out in this setup ? Electromagnet? That part witch is in my fingers in picture no 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic no 1.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZzaS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled omvl injectors&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pic no 2.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9PBd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled omvl injectors&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pic no 3.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOHUt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled omvl injectors&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pic no 4.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNpZr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T19:38:12.743" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T04:08:14.077" Title="OMVL LPG gas injector lifetime" Tags="|fuel-system|lpg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8696" CreationDate="2014-02-04T15:01:12.417" Score="4" ViewCount="8874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Yamaha motorbike. Seller told me not to ride speed more than 50 Kmph for first 1000KM but I rode it 60 for 10 - 15 minutes due to some reason. How does it affect to my Motorbike ?. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4451" LastEditorUserId="489" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T19:18:31.787" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T03:02:01.217" Title="Going more than recommended Speed in Break-in Period" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8695" CreationDate="2014-02-04T15:45:54.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breaking in the engine correctly will greatly affect the longevity and performance of the bike, plus you have warranty regards to worry about as well. I found this from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fz8-forum.com/forum/fz8-general-discussion/631-break.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yamaha forum&lt;/a&gt; and seems along the lines of what I understood to be right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to Yamaha, you are to keep the engine below 5900 rpm for the first 600 miles and vary the rpm. Do not do any steady high rpm rides like on the hwy. After that change the oil and filter and you are good to go. With todays technology in eng building, the engine is broken in after the first 100 miles. I kept my eng below 5900 for the first 100 miles and then varied it at short bursts up to 8000 for the next 200 miles. After that .....redline is the limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best results, you can (at least here in the US) have the motorcycle dealer do the break-in for you. By doing so, you never have to worry about the boring part of owning your bike, that being the break-in period. As well, you know the warranty will be covered without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell you if your riding at 60kph for a period of time has done any damage. My gut check would tell me no, but you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T15:45:54.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T17:08:41.770" Score="4" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in buying a car where the seller modified the car door into Lamborghini-like butterfly doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will there be safety issues, so that the mod will not pass state inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's presume a general spread of TX, CA, FL, MA, NY inspections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:24:11.430" Title="Sedan car door modified - inspection issues" Tags="|door|body-work|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8695" CreationDate="2014-02-05T03:02:01.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's usually two methods people discuss. The 1st method is the one Paulster2 described, which is by the manufacturers suggestion in the manual. The 2nd is a more controversial method of running it hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a snippet from [MotoMan][1]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Short Answer: Run it Hard !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why ??  Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in&#xA;  process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't&#xA;  seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is&#xA;  necessary only to &quot;scrape&quot; the oil to prevent it from entering the&#xA;  combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring&#xA;  tension against the cylinder wall ...  How can such a small amount of&#xA;  spring tension seal against thousands of  PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch)&#xA;  of combustion pressure ??  Of course it can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to recommend which is right, but I'll provide a few more links of the 2nd method so you can read and make your own decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rideapart.com/2013/10/how-to-break-in-a-new-motorcycle-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://rideapart.com/2013/10/how-to-break-in-a-new-motorcycle-engine/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T03:02:01.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8657" CreationDate="2014-02-05T03:14:09.140" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's really not enough information to accurately answer this question, but I'll try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about 40 mm or 60 mm as the spring diameter, the spring diameter affects the  spring rate. Assuming all other attributes of the spring are equal, such as length, number of coils, etc, then a 40 mm spring will have a lower spring rate than a 60 mm spring. A lower spring rate means that it will take less force to compress the spring a certain distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're describing 40 mm vs 60 mm as the height the spring lowers the car, then the difference is a 20 mm lower ride height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for being so vague, but you really need to add more details. If you provide links to the specific brands you're talking about, that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T03:14:09.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8504" CreationDate="2014-02-05T03:21:48.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's a defective battery. You may want to go have it checked. Also, sometimes batteries sit on the shelf awhile before they're sold. Was it properly charged before you put it in the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1203" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T03:21:48.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2014-02-05T15:36:26.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there's one more thing you can check to see if you're engine is consuming too much, and that is the composition of the exhaust gas. I took my engine to a dyno before swapping it for a 2JZ ('cuz hey, if I'm gonna the 2JZ mileage anyways, might as well get power) and they told me the engine was getting more fuel than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the engine fuel intake regulator wasn't regulating properly but still &quot;working&quot; so no engine issue was detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still recommend to go through the steps in the original question, and if that all fails then take it to the dyno and measure the air/fuel ratio through the exhaust gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3865" LastEditorUserId="3865" LastEditDate="2014-02-08T14:22:56.920" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T14:22:56.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-05T16:06:29.747" Score="1" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned Toyota Corolla 2005 since the last 3 years. The previous owner had changed the original tire rim to size 215/55R17 91W. I bought a new set of tires(Primewell PZ900) 2 years back and got the alignment done, everything went fine. But my rear tires wore out in only 13000 miles (Guaranteed to last 40,000 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the same tire again and was trying to get the wheels aligned, but the tire shop says that they cannot align my rear wheels. They say, a shim(K6660-3) would need to be installed on both of my rear tires and have quoted me 225$ for the shim work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused about the following:&#xA;- Shouldn't the same set of tires align well if they aligned well last time ?&#xA;- Should I try to get it aligned again ? I have a 3-year alignment contract.&#xA;- How bad is the rear wheel alignment ?&#xA;- If the shim is absolutely necessary, can't I get the work done only on the left rear ?&#xA;- Is 225$ fair for the work at hand ? Is there an alternative ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be of great help ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pNxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4459" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T19:12:01.097" Title="Corolla 2005 Tyre Alignment issues" Tags="|alignment|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11776" CreationDate="2014-02-05T16:18:41.263" Score="2" ViewCount="39742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Belle MiniMix 150 110V Electric Cement Mixer  the documentation says to use a EP90 oil in the gear box, but these days it seems that most outlets only sells EP80/90 oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference and does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am asking on a mechanics.stackexchange as I need advice for people that understand gear boxes and oils.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T13:41:10.153" Title="Can I use EP 80W/90 oil instead of EP90 oil?" Tags="|oil|gears|gear-oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8703" CreationDate="2014-02-05T19:12:01.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Price sounds reasonable to me.  Alignment definitely has an issue on that left rear corner.  I can't tell across the Internet if it really needs shims, but it doesn't seem unreasonable.  Many cars have very limited adjustments on the rear.  They're not supposed to move much back there.  Any change there is typically due to damage (hitting a curb or even a large pothole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T19:12:01.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8711" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:02:08.297" Score="0" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the &lt;strong&gt;average temperature of air around steering rack&lt;/strong&gt;? Can it be greater than 70  C ? Actually I have to put a sensor over there whose threshold temperature of working is 75  C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T19:33:18.063" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:42:52.943" Title="What is the temperature at steering rack?" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8709" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:10:40.737" Score="4" ViewCount="192526" Body="&lt;p&gt;This questions is to extent the following question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3590/should-i-use-coca-cola-or-baking-soda-water-to-clean-my-battery-clamps&quot;&gt;Should I use coca cola or baking soda + water to clean my battery clamps?&lt;/a&gt;. I have heard of using both Coke and baking soda to clean battery clamps and I personally used both methods and each one worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During discussion on this subject with my coworkers, somebody brought up the point that &lt;strong&gt;myth busters&lt;/strong&gt; tried it on their shows and came up with the following conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Test 7 - Cola can clean battery terminals: Adam and Jamie pit cola against baking soda and a toothbrush on two dirty car batteries. They find that cola and baking soda do just about the same job, &lt;strong&gt;but it's hard to tell if plain water doesn't do just as good of a job&lt;/strong&gt;. Cola doesn't do anything spectacular.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBusters_(2003_season)#Episode_5_.E2.80.93_.22Hammer_Bridge_Drop.2C_Buried_Alive.2C_Cola.22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there any point of spending money to buy special cleaner or using coke or baking soda when it should be possible just to clean it with plain water? Has anyone tried of cleaning it with plain water and does it work the same? If it does should cold, warm or hot water should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drove semi-trucks I remember seeing some sort of grease that was always put on battery terminals. Therefore to extend original question one step further: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should any lubricants be used after cleaning it to protect it?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T13:45:57.990" Title="Cola vs Baking soda vs Water to clean battery, and what should be used afterwards?" Tags="|battery|corrosion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8708" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:57:43.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So is there any point of spending money to buy special cleaner or&#xA;  using coke or baking soda when it should be possible just to clean it&#xA;  with plain water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to clean your battery terminals &lt;em&gt;right now&lt;/em&gt;, you have to use the tools available to you.  You're going to want to be mindful of these facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The corrosion deposits can be obnoxious to remove.  Baking soda and the acid in a soda both might help dissolve the deposits.  If these deposits are not serious, water might be sufficient (although why are you cleaning the terminals if they're not covered with junk?).  Regardless, a stiff brush is helpful to remove anything that doesn't easily dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The battery is chock full of sulfuric acid (that's one of the reasons that corrosion deposits form).  Are you certain that none of that acid is going to be in your work area?  If so, you're possibly fine using plain water or acidic soda.  If not, you're wiser to work with a base as a corrosion remover (e.g., baking soda).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it's going to be your call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should any lubricants be used after cleaning it to protect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question refers to the common practice of adding grease to the terminals prior to tightening the clamps.  The grease in question is acting as a displacer, not a lubricant.  Specifically, you're trying to reduce the ability of the acidic gasses to reach the terminals.  This isn't magic but it will slow corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:57:43.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2908" CreationDate="2014-02-06T17:19:41.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends one several factors--type of engine, how far you ride, the climate, how aggressively you ride, type/quality of gas/oil you use, and maintenance history (and other things, I'm not thinking of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I live in a 4-season climate, and put my bike into storage for about half the year. So, in March (optimistic) I uncover my bike, put air in the tires, change the oil, lube the chain, gears and other moving parts. Then I take it easy for the first 100 miles. Then I ride it the rest of the season with only minor maintenance like lubing chain, maintaining correct PSI in tires, and topping off oil if needed. If I am I not riding it regularly, I will connect a charger to the battery to maintain charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the season, I change the oil, lube the chain, gears, and other moving parts, check PSI in tires, connect a charger to the battery, top off the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer. Then I cover it up and cry for the next 5 months until I can ride it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't ride aggressively, and almost always on pavement (the occasional gravel parking lot), so I'm not really hard on the bike. If you were to do a lot of riding in a dusty area or if you just ride A LOT of miles in a season, for example, you would probably need to change your oil more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, you may need to check the spark plug and readjust the gap (or replace it altogether). Some bikes and riding styles will need that sooner than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with all that in mind, changing the oil every 6 months doesn't seem unreasonable to me. If you are not pushing the bike really hard, and are keeping up with all the other servicing needs (lubing the chain and gears, etc.), then you might be fine with changing the oil just once a year. Keep in mind that oil is affected not just by miles ridden, but also by time it has spent sitting in the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I were riding year-round I would change every 6 months. If you ride half the year like me, once a year (at the end of the riding season) would probably be enough. I just like to be proactive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try to get your hands on another service manual. Is there a dealer near you that might have one? If they don't have any for sale, maybe they would at least let you look at the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try searching online for the manual, too. This site has many manuals - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp&lt;/a&gt; . You might also try searching for &quot;hero honda motorcycle forum&quot; and see if there are other owners you can talk to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second to manual, listen to your bike. Is shifting harder? Are you losing power in lower gears? Is the clutch sticking? Is the engine running hotter? Louder? Does the steering feel &quot;loose&quot;? All of those things can alert you that your bike needs attention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride safe! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4463" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T17:19:41.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8707" CreationDate="2014-02-06T18:23:42.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you ought to be designing for &lt;strong&gt;average&lt;/strong&gt; temperature--I think you're more looking for a &lt;strong&gt;peak&lt;/strong&gt; temperature under expected conditions for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on atmospheric and driving conditions, the temperature could easily exceed 75 C (stuck in traffic in the summer, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many types of automotive wiring are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awcwire.com/faq-automotive-wire.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rated to 80-125 C&lt;/a&gt;, you might use this as a reference point for suitability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T18:23:42.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2014-02-06T19:42:16.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baking soda/water works fine to neutralize the acid. Big puffy or crusty chunks of white or greenish corrosion around the battery terminals are indicators that the metals have been exposed to the sulfuric acid in the battery. This happens because the seal between the lead terminals and the plastic battery case degrades over time. General procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before clamp disassembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Moisten the corrosion (don't wash it away)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Liberally apply baking soda and wait a few minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Make sure to rinse well when you're done, including the area beneath the battery, to &#xA;prevent any un-neutralized acid from causing gradual damage/corrosion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, at this point disconnect the clamps from the battery (negative first!) and continue cleanup. I like doing the pre-clean because it prevents me from having to expose my tools to the acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that distilled water is not electrically conductive on its own, and tap water is only very marginally more so. Battery electrolyte (acid) &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; conductive, and if it covers the battery's exterior surface between terminals or between the (+) terminal and the car's chassis, it will result in a 'short' which will drain the battery while it's at rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, it may be valuable to spread the baking soda over more of the case than where there is apparent corrosion to neutralize as much of the leaked acid as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, DON'T allow any of the basic material (baking soda) to find its way into the battery's case through the vents or whatever; this will partially neutralize the electrolyte inside and can significantly reduce the battery's capacity (although if it's leaking and causing corrosion it's probably not long before it's due for replacement, anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:42:16.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5342" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:06:44.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few ideas for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;First&lt;/em&gt;. Car batteries can be overcharged. When they are, they will 'gas' or 'boil,' which could be the noise you describe. This will continue for a few minutes after the car is turned off. You could easily verify if this is it by waiting for it to occur, and then disconnect the battery. If the car is charging at more than 14.5v while running, and the noise continues while the car is off and the battery is disconnected, it's likely that this is what's happening. Overcharging damages the battery, and reduces its capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The culprit, if overcharging is the problem, is definitely the alternator regulator or another part of the alternator's voltage sense circuit. I'd be especially suspicious if this problem has cropped up after the alternator was replaced, as it's easily possible to have gotten a defective replacement part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Second&lt;/em&gt;. If the noise stops immediately when you disconnect a battery terminal, then it's probably something that's staying on while the key's off and is gradually draining the battery. This can be found as described by 'user1126070'. Instead of a multimeter I have found that a simple test light works for this. I'll rewrite the procedure in case its clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-When the battery is well charged, disconnect one battery lead from its battery post. Leave the other one connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Connect one wire from your test light to the battery post, and the other wire to the removed battery clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-In a circumstance when there is something using power from the battery, the light will illuminate (sometimes dimly). Verify that the test is valid by deliberately turning on something in the car and see if the light illuminates. Then make sure everything is off, doors closed, etc. as it would be when you park the car. If you still have a load drawing current through the light and illuminating it, you can isolate where it is in the car's wiring by removing fuses one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Third&lt;/em&gt;. I can imagine a situation where both these above scenarios are relevant. An alternator's voltage regulator is designed to send power from the battery into the alternator's rotor. It controls how much voltage goes in to determine how much energy the alternator generates. IF the regulator has failed in a way that causes it to over-charge, it could be that it never shuts off, or always uses battery current to energize the rotor even when the car is stopped. You might not be able to isolate this possibility by pulling fuses; instead, you'd have to actually disconnect the wiring from the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:06:44.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2194" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:12:56.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you notice that the flickering varies by engine speed or occurs only within a specific RPM range, I would bump the alternator higher on the list of possibilities. The light is usually off when the alternator is working, i.e. more voltage coming out than is applied at the rotor (spinny electromagnet inside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap fix could be to replace the brushes in the alternator. Sometimes a connection comes loose on the rotor itself, making a replacement of the whole thing a better idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:12:56.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:24:47.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If jump starting works, it has nothing to do with the coolant. Though coolant doesn't usually just go missing; it's (supposed to be) a closed system. That's worth addressing, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick DIY test to see if the problem is the battery or the alternator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Go to the hardware store (or ideally the nearest harbor freight tools) and buy a $10 volt meter. Digital is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Jump start the car, let it run for a few, and measure the voltage between the (+) and (-) terminals of the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-If voltage is between 13.5-14.5 the alternator is fine and you need to replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-If voltage is less than 12 the alternator isn't doing its job to charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-There is rarely a middle situation between 12 and 13.5, but if that's what you get, watch it and see if the voltage is climbing or falling. Falling: bad alternator. Climbing gradually or constant: Likely a bad battery and a weak alternator together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:24:47.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2014-02-06T20:45:28.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really familiar with your car, specifically, but I'm ready to speculate based on general knowledge of fuel injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electronic Fuel Injection or EFI uses 'closed loop air/fuel ratio control'. What this means is that it has a way to 'see' how completely the oxygen has been used up by the fuel delivered. If there's too much fuel, there will be no oxygen left. The car's computer then reduces the amount of fuel used until it sees too much oxygen in the exhaust, and increases fuel again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor used to do this is the oxygen sensor, or O2 sensor. Though the check engine light should come on if this sensor isn't giving good enough feedback, it might be worth measuring its output. The best way to do this is with a graphing voltmeter which can show a plot of the sensor's voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the car is warmed up the o2 sensor voltage should oscillate maybe 30-60x per second, passing through 0.5v. If you just have a multimeter with a digital display, you would look to see around 0.5v constant DC. Steady 1v or 0v indicates a problem either with the sensor or with fuel delivery... but it's a place to start. The sensor will have a few wires on it, and the relevant signal is usually on the black one. YMMV, it might be worth looking at a wiring diagram to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's interesting that leaving the airflow sensor disconnected did not trigger a check engine light, too. That sensor is also responsible for giving the computer a baseline fuel quantity before it's adjusted by oxygen sensor feedback. Almost every car I've ever touched will throw a code and illuminate the check engine light if this sensor is disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the car's ECU has been modified by a previous owner. Is this a possibility? Has someone 'chip tuned' it and F'd it up? Chip tuners frequently attempt to change the fuel table referenced by the airflow sensor's input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have found that re-usable air filters typically require that they are oiled lightly to catch small particles of dust. If any of this oil ends up on the element of the airflow sensor it can make it report the air mass incorrectly, which can affect fuel consumption. There are cleaners available for the MAF, you could try that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T20:45:28.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-07T10:30:28.913" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a few problems with my car this past month or so and this morning I heard something fall out of the engine bay. Can anyone identify what it is? It looks like the bracket that secures the battery, but that is still intact. It came off the right side of the car. It wasn't hot when I touched it (after driving for an hour) and it seems to have torn off. The car is a Vauxhall/Opel Astra Turbo Coupe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUksf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T10:30:28.913" Title="What is this and why did it fall out of my engine bay?" Tags="|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:42:14.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26689" CreationDate="2014-02-07T10:46:06.243" Score="3" ViewCount="51653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so my '97 Civic 150i is running a little to slow for my liking. I want it to be able to hang with a 2.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind is swapping the motor out to make it the same as a VTEC under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is, do I need to get the entire engine, motor. . .I'm really clueless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update; I've converted to a SOHC D16A right now and the mechanic (dad's cousin, so I know I can trust him) said I just need some suspension and brake upgrades/fixes and I can slap a SOHC vtec head on there :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="4418" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T09:56:11.850" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T10:08:07.890" Title="What I need to convert a standard Civic into a VTEC" Tags="|honda|civic|conversion|vtec|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2014-02-07T12:24:54.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your most expensive problem is that a V-tec motor is designed to operate at higher RPM's than your motor can handle. This would mean that you'd have to get stronger pistons and connecting rods (or conrods as they're referred to). You'd also need to upgrade your valve springs to cope with the higher RPM. All in all, you're probably going to be spending about $2000 just on that. This by itself won't actually make your car perform any better, but without these upgrades, your engine won't last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem with your particular car is that you have a single camshaft doing the work, but a V-tec will need to have a double-camshaft setup, meaning you'll need to have a new cylinder head, including camshafts installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll stop now. The short answer is that if you want V-tec, it's going to be cheaper to just buy a secondhand V-tec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T11:14:13.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:14:13.150" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:40:08.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you fried anything either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the battery, though, there's the possibility that the cabling between the starter motor and the battery isn't providing a good enough path for all the current needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's usually one big cable going from the (+) side of the battery directly to the starter, as well as another big one from the (-) side to the chassis of the car. A cool trick is to measure across these with a volt meter while they're under load (someone is trying to start the car at the same time). This can help narrow down a starting issue quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're 'losing' voltage in a cable, you can measure the drop from one end of the cable to the other, or on opposite sides of a connection. A large (&gt;1v) drop in a cable or two can add up and cause the same symptoms as an ailing battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:40:08.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8707" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:42:52.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably measure the temperature of the power steering fluid reservoir as a ballpark idea; that fluid is pumped through the rack and likely keeps it within 10deg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:42:52.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:50:08.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the solenoid coil in the injector? If so, then make a comparison with the new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that the injector would fail either by leaking or not opening. An open circuit in the solenoid's winding would cause the latter problem, and is probably difficult to repair (likely potted in epoxy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:50:08.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8685" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:13:08.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by researching how to correctly wire the gauges and make them work first, then invest time into building the enclosure. First thing to do is to get a wiring diagram for the bike and stare at it until you comprehend what's going on. This took considerable effort for me, and unfamiliar diagrams made by different publishers still throw me for a loop at first. Stick with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functionally, You need to know what type of signal the existing fuel and speed gauges use. Most modern vehicles use electronically operated gauges instead of old-fashioned ones that use rotating cables to assess information about wheel or engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aftermarket gauges you buy will probably have information and strategies for reading or conditioning a variety of signals. You should look at the sales info for the specific gauges you want to use to figure out what type of input is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would then be a good point of research to find out what signals are currently used by the gauges on your bike. You can do this by tracing wiring diagrams or taking apart the gauge cluster and measuring the voltage on the wires with a scope. You're looking for a frequency for speed and a variable resistance to ground for the fuel level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other indicators, like oil and temp, are just discrete on-off signals. If you want to add gauges for these you'll also need to add signal sending units, which will measure these variables on the engine and transmit electrical data about them (usually a variable voltage, controlled by resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tachometer will require tapping into the ignition coil's primary circuit. This is along the same lines as the speed signal; you need a signal which will pulse at a variable rate to indicate rotational speed. The tachometer you buy will have information on this as well; some are designed for low voltage signals from an engine crank sensor, and some are designed for the relatively higher ignition coil primary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this work you're going to need, at minimum, wiring diagrams for the bike, detailed installation instructions for the specific gauges you're using, a good volt meter (preferably a scope, look for a used snap-on vantage or something similar on ebay, very cool tool)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get that all sorted out and the gauges are reading correctly, you get to start building your custom enclosure. Maybe you want to use fiberglass or sill-brazed large diameter copper tubing! Just keep the backs of the gauges dry... or do you need to keep them totally enclosed? Sure sounds like a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:13:08.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8680" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:18:28.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This hose is a low pressure one. Your PD type engine only has high pressures inside the valve cover. There is a low-pressure lift pump in the tank, however, which might make a little spritz of a leak when you first remove the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can depressurize the 'low pressure' side of the system by opening the water separator on the bottom of the fuel filter (to the left of the frame of the photo you took; located at the other end of the hose in question). If for some reason this is inaccessible (some filters don't have it) you could just wrap a rag around the hose after you remove the clamp, and twist and pull to remove. The rag will be more than adequate to absorb any initial pressure release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not in any grave danger. One look at the type of clamp on the hose should provide that much information. Keep the fuel system nice and clean, and when you go to start it the first time cycle the key switch a few times before going to crank it up. This will let the in-tank pump purge out any air you introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:18:28.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8666" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:29:00.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two power wires going to the starter. The big one is always on, and the little one is controlled by the key switch/remote start system. So, measure power at the little wire; my guess is that you don't get any power there while the key's in the start position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the next thing I would do is find the point in the wiring where the remote start system is connected to the start signal wire. This might take some legwork. I would venture an early guess that it's related to the installation of the remote start system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see anything obvious, just keep checking for power from the key switch on the start signal circuit along its length until you find the break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:29:00.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8657" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:35:28.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking several on line vendors specs the 40mm or 60mm refers to the amount of lowering from stock. If your stock spring leaves 100mm of tire clearance a 40mm spring would leave 60 mm of clearance. Several things must be taken into account prior to selecting your springs. Your car may already be lower than stock due to the age and condition of the springs. The 40mm drop is from a new stock spring. If you add non stock tires and wheels the clearance will change. If you haven't done so recently I would suggest getting new struts as a leading cause of spring failure is worn struts. You will also need a front end alignment after installing the springs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:35:28.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:59:08.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a problem to leave the car in drive; I'd call it more a matter of personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the car is idling in D and stopped, the automatic transmission is sort of in a 'ready-and-waiting' mode, with the torque converter partially engaged. This puts a little bit of drag on the engine, and requires the engine management system to deliver a little more fuel and air to keep the idle speed constant. This excess energy is discarded by the transmission as waste heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain vehicles exhibit more of this than others, but you may actually experience better fuel economy if you let the car idle in neutral instead of drive when stopped for longish periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've definitely driven in thick traffic where I was stopped for minutes at a time, and found it far more comfortable to bump the transmission into neutral when the rate of progress was particularly bleak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:59:08.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-08T11:58:59.923" Score="8" ViewCount="6787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that except for small commuter bikes and older bikes (before the 80s), hardly any of the larger and/or sportier bikes have covers to protect their chains: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/atzBP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Cub&quot;&gt;. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGGuP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hero Honda Passion&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem quite practical, and conducive to chain life- by protecting the chain from the elements and requiring less frequent lubrication. Then why don't larger bikes have them? Is it purely for aesthetic reasons? Or is there a safety aspect as well? Are there other reasons? What would happen if the chain broke in a bike with a chain cover? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4474" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:10:54.710" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T09:40:27.750" Title="Why don't motorbikes have chain covers?" Tags="|motorcycle|chain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-08T14:11:22.100" Score="6" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't manage to properly reach the top right screw (zoom picture of it on the second picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I do that ? (the tool I have is too long to be able to go on the rear, there is nearly no space !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how to put the screw again without risking to loose it in the engine ? (I lost one screw in the engine this way !)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place is nearly not reachable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gH8kA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfmaY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T10:34:47.837" Title="How to reach bolt at the rear of BMW M41 Engine?" Tags="|engine|bmw|stuck-bolt|screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8744" CreationDate="2014-02-08T15:27:57.257" Score="2" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just changed two of the fuel hose (white and blue tipped ones) that lead to the fuel pump. The reason I changed them was because one of them was split and slowly leaking fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have came out a drive in it and it is choking at times. Am I right in saying that there could be air in my fuel line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how do I get this out? My tools are basic, so I am concerned this could be a mechanics job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a possibility it could work itself out naturally? I've just driven 4.5miles and parked in a layby to post this message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Seat Leon 2008 FR TDi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:35:12.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:35:12.807" Title="How to remove air from the fuel line in a MK2 Seat Leon TDi" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-line|seat-cars|seat-leon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8743" CreationDate="2014-02-09T06:03:19.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1933" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a long time ago, I went to the service for an annual technical inspection. They replaced the front-right leg of a stabilizer. And gave me the previous one back. I wasn't too smart to ask the reason, since I'm not familiar with internal parts of my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I can see - it's just a metal stick with two moving parts on its ends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90EpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is - what can be wrong with this &quot;thing&quot;? How can I check it on my own detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. The photo above is not mine. If it helps, I can make a photo of my detail.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update #1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part from KIA Rio (year 2011). And it should be mounted this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXJoH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4479" LastEditorUserId="4479" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T14:22:59.087" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:01:04.777" Title="What potentially may be wrong with a front-right leg of a stabilizer?" Tags="|replace|parts|kia|service|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8737" CreationDate="2014-02-09T14:38:44.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I don't know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; where this piece goes in the front end of your car, I will give you some generalities of why this piece is built as it is and why it probably needed to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front end of your car has a lot of things going on. Way back when, vehicle front suspensions were setup with a straight axle, somewhat like what rear-ends are setup today, only they had what was called &lt;em&gt;kingpins&lt;/em&gt; to allow the front tires to articulate. It may have looked something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dHyuu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, there are springs which support the axle, then at the outer ends of the axle you see the spindles (the pointy thing sticking out at you). What allows this to articulate is the kingpin. You had to have some type of articulation to allow the wheels to point and this was it. Along with this, there also had to be some way for the input the drive applied to the steering wheel to be translated out to the spindle in order to get the vehicle pointed in the correct direction. For this, you need (obviously) the steering wheel, which gives the initial input. Then you have the steering column which transmits the effort from the steering wheel to the steering box. The steering box changes the direction of effort, as well as reduces the steering ratio so as to make steering the vehicle easier (way back when there wasn't any power steering, other than &quot;arm strong&quot; power steering). On the steering box, there is an arm which is attached to linkages which ultimately goes to connection points on the spindles which causes the front wheels to turn. This long explanation is a general description of the steering. The reason why this is important is because this type of front end does not make for a comfortable ride. It is bouncy and very harsh. It was, however, very tough. It would stand up to a lot of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads us to the part you are showing above. Engineers figured out a way create a two point system which allowed the each front end to articulate independently from each other, giving the occupants of the vehicle a much more enjoyable ride as well as better cornering performance and adjustability. How the did this was by introducing items called &lt;em&gt;ball joints&lt;/em&gt;. These ball joints are like what are at the end of your rod. They are very stiff, as in they do not give much deflection, but they do allow for articulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a crude representation of an independent front suspension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kshTa.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The points where it says &quot;upper&quot; and &quot;lower&quot; are where the ball joints are at. If you draw a line through these, this is where the front spindle articulates and replaces the kingpin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your piece above helps in this type of endeavor by providing areas of movement or articulation, but do so without deflection (movement is articulated without any give, so is exact). The probable reason your piece needed replaced probably had to do with one or both ends of the rod being worn out ... it has give. This makes it so your steering input is not as accurate, so your vehicle does not track correctly, so you wear your tires out before their time, and so you don't get as good of gas mileage. It can also cause safety issues with your vehicle while driving, as you will not have as great of control of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: (I realized I did not answer one of your questions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check to see if one of these rod ends or ball joints is worn out, depends on where it is at in the suspension system. The first thing to check for are cracked and/or split grease cones (rubber part which protects the joint). If these are bad, it let's moisture and dirt in which quickly wastes the joint away. Tie rod ends (connection at the steering knuckle/spindle) are checked most easily in a two man operation, one sitting at the steering wheel the other looking at the end. Have the person sitting at the wheel turn it slightly (5deg either way is probably enough). The tire should move with the turn of the wheel. If there is deflection at the joint, it is going bad and will soon need replaced. Ball joints are a little more complicated. The easiest and surest way I have seen to check them is to jack one side of the vehicle up at the ball joint of the lower A-arm (second picture) so the tire is about 2-3&quot; off the ground. Get some type of lever (long 2x4) and from the front of the car, place it under the tire with about 5-6&quot; sticking out the other side (toward the back of the vehicle). While applying pressure up slightly on the tire, wiggle the board back and forth while looking for any movement at the ball joint and A-arm assembly. If there is movement, it needs replaced. When I say movement, I mean the knuckle/spindle is moving but the A-arm is not. This is not the only way to check this, but is one of the best/surest ways I have seen to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other methods for other joints. If you have a specific joint, I can probably help you with a way to check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps with your understanding of what the piece is, how it works, and why it needed replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your picture, the link you are showing on your vehicle attaches the body to the front sway bar. As the name implies, the sway bar helps to keep the vehicle from rolling during cornering (keeps it level). It does this by tying the two sides together (both lower A-arms), trying to get them to move together. It acts like a torsion spring in this aspect. This is directly responsible for the stability and safety of the vehicle during driving. The joint on either end of the rod allows the A-arm to move up and down without binding, but it also does this without give. With this part being worn out, it can cause other parts to wear out faster, such as the springs, shocks, tires, and other ball joints. To check this particular part out, you would do three things. First, look at the boots (as mentioned before) to see if they are cracked and abused. This is a precursor to being worn out. It shows there is quite a bit of movement around the joint itself. Secondly, you should just be able to grab the rod and twist it. If this is fairly easy to do, it's probably worn out. Thirdly, if you grab it securely and jerk it back and forth, you should not have any movement at the joints. This is a SURE sign the joint is worn out. You may want to grab it near the joint and try each end separately. On this type of link, if either end is worn out, the whole link needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T15:18:35.077" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:18:35.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8766" CreationDate="2014-02-09T20:14:05.630" Score="6" ViewCount="7062" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wife parks too close to my white car. Would love to get rid of these door dings as her car is only 3 years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOa2j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T13:44:15.583" Title="How can I get rid of door dings?" Tags="|paint|body-work|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6162" CreationDate="2014-02-09T23:58:31.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred method is to remove the four bolts that hold the two A arms on (14 mm where the A arms attach to the frame) there will be plenty of play in the assembly to move it out of the way, give the axle a good yank and it will come out of the front differential, for the outside boot (I have never gotten one of them apart with out destroying it) I either purchase an over the joint boot (very cool, it just stretches over the entire joint [follow directions exactly, turn it inside out before stretching it over the joint, once on the axle you will then undo that process so it will be on correct]) or replace the inner one too, it can be taken apart easily by removing the wire retainer just inside the joint, there is a clip on the end of the shaft that holds the bearing cage on. Install the outer boot by sliding it down the shaft and on the joint and work your way to the inner boot and close it all up. Don't forget those two clips that hold the inner one together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4482" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T23:58:31.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-10T05:43:28.123" Score="5" ViewCount="45760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed it in the last year (2013) that my 2008 Jetta with the original OEM battery would be taking a little longer to start than before, sometimes (but very rarely) not starting in the amount of time I try to have it start through my reflex of using it for 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was all still good, even in the freezing temperatures, until today -- I haven't driven the car in about 8 days (it was stored in a garage around 32&amp;deg;F), drove it to a gas station today, then to uni; as I drove to uni, I've noticed that there's some kind of slightly burned smell coming out from the heat (but I kinda thought it was normal, since I've been using the windscreen vents most of the time earlier, but was using the driver/passenger vents today), then I notice that the front lights were kinda flickery as I spent a couple of seconds idling at my destination, and idling was slightly uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequently, the car didn't start back at this destination -- at the uni.  I kinda panicked, and attempted to start it several times in a row, only then realising that I better apply the manual break to turn off DRL, and then it finally started on like 6th time (after having to wait a minute or so from the prior attempt of trying to start it right after the DRL went off), but idle was very uneven and the lights flickery, plus the engine light was on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it for a while, and idle was still very uneven and lights were blinking; I then realised that I better turn off the heat (and also radio, just in case), I drove the car like that for like 10 miles around town (to recharge the battery), trying not to idle it, still with the engine light on (but idling was now very stable since turning off the heat), then left it off for one or two hours in the freezing temp (20&amp;deg;F) at a Walmart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, the car started just fine at the Walmart -- no issues or delay whatsoever, however, the engine light is still on, and I am kinda getting the impression of receiving somewhat of a weird burned smell from the heater (I've tried to only keep it on when driving on highway), however, upon my arrival at home, and opening the hood in the garage, there was no burnt smells from within the hood whatsoever (the smell from the heater was weak, but I haven't noticed anything like that before; although, to be fair, I haven't drive the car in 8 days).  I've inspected the top of the battery, and it's also just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any ideas what's going on?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is starting the car with the low battery damaged the engine?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some problem with the heater?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the check-engine light being on due to a more-than-usual dying state of the battery?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I have to change the battery, or is it just the extra cold weather and several days of not-driving that gave it a hard time?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to stress again that the very last time I've used the starter (at Walmart), after recharging the battery by driving 10 miles without heat, there was absolutely no signs of the battery being dead (alas, I did have the heat, DRL and radio off during this starting), so, I'd rather not replace it now if it can still serve me for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T03:00:56.480" Title="My battery was too low, and now my check engine light is on" Tags="|engine|battery|cel|jetta|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8737" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:24:40.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: The stabilizer works with the swaybar to reduce body roll in turns.  The stabilizer in the picture is missing a nut on the top bolt.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture in the question clearly illustrates the function of the stabilizer (if you know what it's connected to) and what some of the failure modes might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of some of the critical components that are not immediately obvious from your snapshot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eXTL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of the swaybar and stabilizer on a Kia Rio Source: www.kiapartsoverstock.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there is a stabilizer on either end of a piece of metal that looks like a pipe with two question marks on either end.  That's the swaybar (AKA &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anti-roll bar&lt;/a&gt;): it acts as a torsion spring.  If you push up on one bendy end, the bar will rotate in those bushings, lifting whatever's connected on the other side.  However, if you try to twist the bar by inducing body roll in a turn, it will strongly resist, keeping the car more upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: I'm trying to avoid a wall of words answer so please see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar#Main_functions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for a more detailed explanation of the basics, pros and cons of swaybars.  Also, look closely at the diagram and the picture in the question: there's a nut missing from that top bolt!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from your picture, the stabilizer is what connects this swaybar to the moving parts of the suspension (in this case, the strut assembly on the left of the image that heads up to the top).  It transfers that vertical motion down to the swaybar.  The swaybar then twists as noted above.  This twisting vs. pushing-pulling is why the stabilizer has those rubber bushings at either end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given all that, why would you replace a stabilizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rust: accursed rust nevers sleeps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn bushings: as they wear, they will grip the connecting bolts less tightly.  This wear will progress until you'll start to hear rattles and clunks as the stabilizer loads and unloads.  Eventually, the bushings can fail, pulling the connecting bolts completely loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Broken pieces: if those bolts break loose, the stabilizer isn't much use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T13:01:04.777" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:01:04.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8735" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:51:07.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I turns out I made the rookie error of putting the fuel lines on the wrong connectors on the fuel filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped the blue and white around and the car is now running great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1734" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:51:07.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2014-02-10T18:40:15.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1st Generation (1995-1999) Toyota Avalon with a P1135 error also. I change the Denso Air Fuel Sensor P/N: 234-9007 and  it solve the problem and the check engine light went away. I change it from the top instead of going under the car it was really easy. Hope this help like other have help me. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHurh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4484" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T18:40:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8742" CreationDate="2014-02-10T19:33:09.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting the car with a low battery will not damage your engine, unless you're cranking it for several minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When was the last time you cleaned your batter terminals? If there's corrosion on them, clean them up. If this is the case, you can continue using your battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to a local car parts store and have someone scan your car for ODB2 error codes. Maybe they could measure your battery voltage as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I highly doubt your battery issue will cause your CEL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 5 years, you are on the end of life on your battery. I recommend replacing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4485" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:33:09.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8742" CreationDate="2014-02-10T19:47:21.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your battery and make sure it's not hot after driving around!  I just had a battery fail on me last week by dropping a cell.  It'd been weak for a little while, but still seemed to work.  I started smelling something burning while driving and found that the battery was extremely hot (too hot to touch with bare hands) after a half hour of driving.  It was only reading 12.1 volts too (even though the charging system in the car was putting out the full 13.9 volt charging output).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case for you too, replace that battery immediately before you have a carfire/battery explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T19:47:21.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-10T19:51:36.887" Score="3" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback with a 1.6 liter v-tech. The other day I was driving to work in the rain (there were deep puddles on the road). Suddenly, my check engine light came on and I lost power, not completely, it just bogged out. The check engine light shut off and I got power back. I made it to work and after I left work, my check engine light turned back on and I lost power again. Since then, it will start up first thing in the morning, it drives but there is no power. It won't go above 2,500 rpm. It eventually dies and won't start again until the next day. I don't have the plastic motor cover on the bottom of the car. Is there something that could have gotten water in it? My friend tested the distributor and it's fine, but my other friend said it isn't getting adequate spark. My catalytic converter went out and was plugged up, and I thought that might be the issue. I can't afford another one for a couple more weeks so I hallowed it out. That didn't do it. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4486" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T03:21:53.387" Title="Starts when cold, runs at low rpm, dies, then won't start" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8754" CreationDate="2014-02-10T22:20:23.907" Score="3" ViewCount="34437" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the bulbs in my front passenger side headlamp has blown. It's not the side light or the main beam but the other one that would be used in normal night use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions regarding the process to replace it, since I don't actually have a clue what to do but have a fairly comprehensive toolkit available to me, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What bulb do I need to replace the bulb that has blown?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I actually get to the bulb to replace it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once I get at the bulb, is it just a simple case of unscrewing the old one and replacing it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 2001 Ford Focus EU spec phase 1 hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T07:58:41.820" Title="How do I replace a bulb in a Ford Focus?" Tags="|ford|headlight|focus|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-10T22:41:02.663" Score="2" ViewCount="14302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my 2008 Jetta 2.5L 5W40 generally starts up with an idle RPM of at most 1.2K RPM around the freezing temperature (say when the temp sensor reads 33&amp;deg;F), or even at just about 1K RPM when it's even colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the warm temperatures (when the temp sensor reads 40&amp;deg;F (4&amp;deg;C) or above), it's always starting up with a 1.6K RPM idle, no exceptions, unless the engine is already warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is warm, the RPM is generally around 600 to 700 RPM when idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for the starting idle RPM to be much lower in the winter?  Do I need to wait before driving the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the non-freezing weather, I generally wait until it goes down from 1600 to about 1000 RPM before driving, which generally takes maybe half a minute or so, but what kind of indication could be relied upon in the winter, when the idle RPM is already under 1000 RPM almost right from the start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="2760" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T14:59:46.923" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T03:31:14.910" Title="Is starting idle RPM always lower in colder temperatures?" Tags="|engine|oil|winter|rpm|jetta|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8748" CreationDate="2014-02-10T23:03:01.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Splashed water up into the engine compartment can cause issues with the wires or the distributor. Start the car (if possible) at night in the dark while looking under the hood. Check for a light show (blue arcing) from the spark plug wires. If there is, these need changed and is most likely the problem. Secondly, pull the distributor cap and spray the inside of it with WD-40. While WD-40 is used as a lubricant, it's original purpose was as a cleaner on air craft surfaces. Part of the protection of it is as water displacement, thus the name (WD = Water Displacement). It works good in distributors to keep water out and misfires to a minimum. If this helps clear things up, the distributor cap/rotor should be replaced. If this does not help, you will need to check your coil to ensure it is working correctly. I found an excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda_dist_ignition/honda_ignition_systems_1.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diagnostic site&lt;/a&gt; to show the tests for all of this. It is too extensive to copy onto here, but should answer all your questions how how to test the entire system from wires to coil and everything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T23:03:01.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2014-02-11T03:45:43.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are wanting to do is possible.  I've had similar experience and desire for my 2010 Camry.  From my experience, reading messages from the OBD-II port wasn't getting me anywhere.  It was like the CAN messages were only a response to me manually manipulating the the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get a message response from locking or unlocking the doors with the key FOB, but sending that same message didn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is get an OBD-II splitter cable and a copy of Toyota Techstream with a &quot;mini VCI cable&quot;.  This will allow you to read the messages the Techstream software sends to through the OBD-II port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Lock and Unlock driver/all doors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Pop trunk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Turn on low and high beams and flashers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- Honk the horn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5- Roll up and down windows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6- Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..or at least it all worked for me!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV and good luck! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not responsible for damages to self or car.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4488" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T03:45:43.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8749" CreationDate="2014-02-11T11:10:40.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first question is easy to answer - find your local automotive parts supplier and they will be able to look up and supply the correct bulb type for you. I would expect it to be either H1 or H3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to the bulb is often harder - it varies a lot by car. I think the Focus is a more traditional design, so hopefully you can get to it without having to dismantle the car. On the back of the headlamp will be a round cover, these usually have a bayonet type fitment, so you twist them and pull to remove - providing you can actually get to it in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in, pull the plug off the back of the bulb, and you'll find a wire spring clip holding the bulb in - remove this (which can be tricky, depending on how much access you've got), and the bulb should fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit the new bulb, making sure &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; to touch the glass with your fingers - the grease from your fingerprints can cause the bulb to fail prematurely. Refit the spring clip (again, a tricky job), and the plug and cover. Refit anything you had to remove to get to it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T11:10:40.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2014-02-11T12:00:40.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from Norway so I am sorry if I use wrong words or misspell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal that the starting rpm is dropping when it's cold. The battery is struggling a bit to deliver power needed to turn the starter. When it's cold the engine shrinks a little and makes is harder to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will recommend you to start the engine and then let it run for a couple of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Norway so at wintertime when I start my car, I'll always wait from 1 to 5 minutes before I drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what's you're definition of cold, but my is below -15 degrees Celsius&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4490" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T12:00:40.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2014-02-11T12:48:32.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my diesel truck, idling RPM on cold days is lower and have to use the hand throttle to keep the RPM high enough to not stall. As for the reason behind this, my guess is thicker oil and fluids make it harder to turn the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the waiting before driving the car, I personally run the engine on idle for less than a minute and gently start to drive to save the mechanical parts that are still froze. Read what &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficiency/communities-infrastructure/transportation/idling/4423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Natural Resources Canada as to say about vehicle warm-up&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T12:48:32.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2014-02-11T13:10:14.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the opposite of what my cars do.  Warm days they start at 1.2-1.5k before idling down.  On cold days they start at 2.2-2.5k (which is so high I can't even get them into gear until they settle down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:10:14.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8763" CreationDate="2014-02-11T15:04:47.060" Score="8" ViewCount="51063" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Toyota Corolla's Check Engine Light came on. I read the codes using an OBD code reader and got &lt;code&gt;P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;P0133 - 02 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)&lt;/code&gt;. The light is on solid, not blinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can research online this seems like the most probable causes are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://toyota-solutions.blogspot.ca/2011/02/got-p0171-blues-in-your-toyota-corolla.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;intake gaskets needing to be replaced&lt;/a&gt; or needing a new Mass Airflow Sensor. Though I haven't done any smoke diagnostics so I can't rule out another cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;is it okay to drive my car while it shows these codes?&lt;/strong&gt; I don't want to do permanent damage running too lean. If I drive to the mechanic's or to pick up parts will this cause issues? Or should I get it towed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4489" LastEditorUserId="4489" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T06:20:39.987" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T01:52:39.433" Title="'Check Engine' code P0171 System Too Lean - Is it safe to drive?" Tags="|obd-ii|cel|p0171|p0133|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-11T15:39:53.327" Score="1" ViewCount="3808" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Hyundai Verna/Accent handbrake light comes on when driving and just off in shortly times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas to what might be causing this, if so what parts will need to be replaced/repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4144" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T18:29:47.160" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T01:00:21.037" Title="Hyundai Verna (Accent) handbrake light is on everytime" Tags="|hyundai|handbrake|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8762" CreationDate="2014-02-11T16:16:07.073" Score="7" ViewCount="37102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is on-topic after reading the FAQ, so I figured I'd go ahead and ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave my gas generator its scheduled 3-month interval &quot;workout&quot; last night, and after letting it run for about 30 minutes, I turned the fuel valve off and let it run until it died so there wouldn't be any gas left in the fuel lines. I use ethanol-free gas with Sta-Bil added to it. Then I siphon out whatever's left in the tank after the generator has been shut down. However in the last few seconds it was running, the whole generator started shaking and making a terrible racket. Should I not do this - am I putting more wear on the engine than I would by letting old gas sit in the fuel lines? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard what seems to be conflicting results in running engines out of gas. For cars it's bad, but the overwhelming online opinion for generators seems to be that running them dry before storage is the best option. Is this because automobile fuel pumps can be damaged by running dry, but since generators are usually gravity-fed, it isn't harmful to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:04:00.270" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T00:21:16.703" Title="Should I run my generator dry in preparation for storage?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|fuel-line|long-term-storage|generator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8759" CreationDate="2014-02-11T16:27:38.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake light in the dash can come on if your brake reservoir is below where it should be. Check this, but before you do, double check to see if you need brakes. If you just pour brake fluid into your reservoir and need your brake pads replaced, you'll make a mess as you'll have too much fluid in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need brake fluid, clean off the cap of the reservoir with a clean rag, take it off, and read what it says. It will probably say to use DOT3 brake fluid which can easily be found at most parts stores. Fill the reservoir up to the line which should be seen on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your reservoir is low and you don't need new brakes, you may have a leak somewhere. Check your calipers/wheel cylinders for any leakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the reservoir is not low, some vehicles will indicate with the brake light being on if you have a tail light which is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T00:09:55.010" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T00:09:55.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8760" CreationDate="2014-02-11T16:44:23.850" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend to everyone I know to run your generator or other small equipment dry before storage. The main purpose of this is to get all of the ethanol based fuel out of carburetor and fuel bowl. Ethanol has a propensity of gumming things up and can leave a lot of varnish over time. This tends to plug orifices needed for proper fuel metering while running, and thus kills the carb. I've unsuccessfully attempted to rebuild small engine carbs, but found it much easier/cheaper (time vs. cost) to replace. I have had to replace two carbs out of three small equipment pieces with gas engines. Since I started running them dry, I've had no issues. Starting takes a few more pulls of the cord, but once the bowl fills, they fire without too much hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the bucking goes, this would be normal as the bowl runs out of fuel. As long as you do not have a load on your generator when you do this, it should not cause any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing for proper maintenance. When giving your generator a &quot;workout&quot;, make sure you plug something into it and run it. Something which will actually put a load on the generator. Generators are built to work. They tend to not like to just &quot;run&quot; ... for some reason this tends to wear them out quicker. You are running it anyway, so plugging something into it and running it should not cause you any concern. I run a 15A shop vac on mine, which is a 5250w running generator. Gives it a little bit of a workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: You may also want to look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1876/does-the-amount-of-fuel-in-the-tank-matter&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/119/how-long-does-it-take-for-gas-to-go-bad&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, and maybe even &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/509/how-do-i-safely-siphon-gas-from-a-tank&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; ... all from this SE site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T16:44:23.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8758" CreationDate="2014-02-11T16:57:35.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should not cause you an issue, but this sounds more like a problem with the O2 sensors than with the intake gaskets. When was the last time you had them changed? If you are over 100k miles without new ones, I'd highly suggest this first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to check your theory for the intake gasket is by using a spray bottle with water (on jet, not spray). With the engine running at normal operating temps, spray the area of the intake manifold gasket. You are wanting to hear a change in tone of how the engine is running. When you find a hole (or leaking area), there will be a distinct difference in how the engine runs. The O2 response being slow is what is inclining me to think of this. As O2 sensors get older, the don't normally go &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; per-se, but rather they get lazy. They will continue to get more lazy as time goes on. This will cause you to get increasingly worse fuel mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things you can do is to ensure you do not have any leaks in your intake tract after the Mass Airflow Sensor. This could be anywhere between it and the head, where the air/fuel enters the cylinder head. Check all vacuum lines/hoses attached to the intake manifold for cracking or breakage. Check to ensure the intake tract is firmly and correctly attached to the throttle body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, running this to the store to pick up parts will not cause you issue, but get this fixed as soon as possible, you darn sure aren't helping your engine any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T16:57:35.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8748" CreationDate="2014-02-11T20:11:09.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you I would try the main relay and the fuel pump relay next. My Honda accord had the same symptoms until I replaced those two relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4436/1999-honda-accord-coupe-stalls-after-warm-startup-and-shaky-idle-tsb/4641#4641&quot;&gt;1999 Honda Accord Coupe Stalls After Warm Startup and Shaky Idle TSB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T20:37:57.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8739" CreationDate="2014-02-11T22:47:06.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: It depends on the ding.  Try some cleaner wax, though: it won't make the problem worse.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you scratch down to the primer or just leave some paint behind?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you did was trade some paint between cars, you're going to need to polish it off.  That said, if you're not comfortable with power polishing tools or abrasive polishes, I would counsel a cautious approach and shoot for incremental improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;CAVEAT: never wax or buff in direct sunlight.  Misery awaits.  Once upon a time, I put a whole set of swirl marks into my paint trying to get over-dried wax off in the sun.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's what I used to do (before I bought the above-mentioned power tools):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purchase some cleaner wax AKA a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax#Properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;car wax&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;em&gt;mild&lt;/em&gt; abrasives (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JKIRC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zymol&lt;/a&gt; which works pretty well and smells nice in the process...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash the area with nice sudsy dish soap.  This will strip off any waxes that are currently on that body panel.  You want easy access to the accidental paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, seriously: wash the panel really well.  You don't have to do the whole car, just the panel of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry it well: again, you're trying to prevent any barriers between your upcoming efforts and the bad paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply the cleaner wax to a target area according to instructions.  Don't get aggressive at this point: you're trying to lift a little of the mark, not scratch or haze the surrounding area.  I usually use an all-cotton cloth with cross-hatch motions with a bias towards vertical passes on side panels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, following instructions, buff the area when the wax dries / gets hazy.  See above note for a reminder that impatience and / or direct sunlight can add to your misery factor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect: better?  Good enough?  If not, return to step 5.  Again, patience is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If all is well, rewax the entire door panel that you stripped with the dish soap above.  Nice cleaner wax will do a swell job for the larger panel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Show the tolerant spouse the fruits of your labors.  Receive accolades.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaner wax is doing a few things: it's abrading some of the mark loose with each application, suspending those loose particles in the wax and carrying them away when you buff the dry wax off.  In addition, the remaining buffed wax softens the edges of any dent or scratch that you made in the wife's car (i.e., they look less bad).  Finally, the optical properties of the wax will reduce the probability that a glancing light will catch a perfect specular reflection (i.e., remaining scratches are harder to see).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/griots+garage+random+orbital.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;random orbital&lt;/a&gt; at home and I go straight to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/machine+polish+3.do?sortby=ourPicks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mild polishes&lt;/a&gt; in these situations.  This is an investment and not a step that I'd recommend to a novice or those in a hurry to get some immediate gratification.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T13:44:15.583" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T13:44:15.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-11T23:37:06.117" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks fairly easy to setup and use but can this hurt me? Also, does anyone know how much data they actually store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: According to the customer service representative: &quot;Snapshot is a discount only program, so it won’t increase your rate. Depending on your driving habits the discount could reach up to 30%.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question has been put on hold but as Juann points out you can save $15 a month by refusing this service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential savings of using this are 0-30% of your premium which might be outweighed by the $15 you would save from refusing the service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4494" LastEditorUserId="4494" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T19:09:19.820" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T19:09:19.820" Title="Is the Progressive Snapshot worth the money?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-12T16:12:33.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-12T00:37:56.360" Score="4" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how else to describe it but as &quot;lazy&quot;.  There's power to the speedometer/temperature/fuel portion of the dashboard, but nothing else in the cab has power, including the interior light.  Usually, even when full, the fuel gauge &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; shows about 1/4 tank, and the temperature sits around the same on the gauge.  Occasionally while driving, they'll both start up to the level they should be at, but very soon drop back to the low positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked all the fuses, and they all are fine, so am at a loss where the power is being &quot;distributed from&quot; and why there doesnt seem to be enough to the interior of the cab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1961" LastEditorUserId="1961" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T01:15:18.110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T13:34:52.887" Title="How to fix &quot;lazy&quot; electricity to the cab of an '89 Mazda B2200" Tags="|electrical|mazda|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8769" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-12T06:17:04.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;On-board Diagnostics&lt;/a&gt; Wikipage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T16:08:30.010" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T16:08:30.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8770" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-12T06:17:04.567" Score="0" Body="Code P0133 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response. This code indicates the engine fuel/air ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor as expected. Part of the `P01xx - Fuel and Air Metering` family of codes." OwnerUserId="4489" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T14:10:22.953" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:10:22.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8771" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-12T06:18:25.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;On-board Diagnostics&lt;/a&gt; Wikipage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T16:08:37.590" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T16:08:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8772" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-12T06:18:25.820" Score="0" Body="Code P0171 - System Too Lean. This code indicates an oxygen sensor has detected too much oxygen in the exhaust. Part of the P01xx - `Fuel and Air Metering` family of codes." OwnerUserId="4489" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T14:10:29.907" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:10:29.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8767" CreationDate="2014-02-12T08:44:38.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't do it. Rather ask for a discount because you're not taking the device in the first place. The device's cost is worked into your premium. I got a $15 discount on my monthly insurance by refusing the &quot;free&quot; GPS unit they offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, the real intent of this device is to collect data for when you claim. If they can prove that you went 61 in a 60 zone, they won't pay out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T08:44:38.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8778" CreationDate="2014-02-12T11:31:43.680" Score="4" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Vauxhall/Opel Astra Mk5 1.8l SRi, registered in 2004. For 2/3 months now I've been having to keep a spare battery in the car as the car battery is running flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that the battery was old and needed replacing, so had that done - the problem persisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I thought, it's likely the alternator, so I had the electrics checked - something in the electrical system is draining the battery at a rate of 2 amps when everything is switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the alternator removed from the electrical system for repair / replacement - two mechanics have tested the alternator, and it's working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm all out of ideas as to what could be causing the problem now, so if anyone has any ideas on what to look out for, I'd be most grateful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Last night I was checking the interior electrics, specifically the light in the glove compartment. I was closing the compartment door slowly to see if the light went off (a bit like you do with the fridge door when you're a kid), but I couldn't see whether it went off or not. When I held my hand over the light it felt very warm - too warm for a few seconds worth of illumination in my opinion. - Could it be the glove box light? I don't see how such a small and insignificant bulb could drain a battery overnight, or even draw 2 amps from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your thoughts please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T22:49:57.153" Title="Battery running flat on a regular basis" Tags="|electrical|battery|ignition|alternator|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8479" CreationDate="2014-02-12T12:47:31.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a case of needing to know your car.  On my Eclipse and my wife's Celica, the parking brake gets used year round and works fine.  However, on my MR2 I know better than to use it while below freezing.  That car has had several set of cables on it and the same problem comes back right away each time.  Appears to be a design flaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the car in gear is not sufficient as a substitute though.  The MR2 above, I would leave in gear.  Our driveway was on a slight hill.  One day I went outside to shovel after parking the car an hour earlier.  While I was nearby I heard a soft &quot;pop&quot; and watched my car start to roll away.  Luckily I was nearby and could catch it before it went in the street, but I learned my lesson that leaving it in gear is not reliable.  I now carry wheel chocks with me in the Winter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T12:47:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2014-02-12T15:38:33.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those bikes are small engine, low torque and consequently have smaller/narrower chains.  They are designed for use commuting to/from work with little or no protective clothing over your normal clothes. Consequently the chain needs to stop spatter getting on your clothes and as a result has a chain guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain - due to its smaller weight and less torque of the engine will likely stretch less than a bigger bikes and should in theory need tensioned less often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger bikes have much heavier gauge chains that have a lot more mass with them.  The larger bikes also have much more torque applied through the chain.  In the event of a chain failure the guard would have to be much thicker than on those bikes.  Additionally the chains on larger bikes need to be adjusted more regularly (in my experience) and are less tolerant to slack/tightness so you need ready access to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, larger bikes tend to have a nominal chain guard to stop laces/clothing etc from the pillion passenger being taken up by the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the chain covers don't look very nice compared to a gold x-ring chain and anodised sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T20:23:02.583" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T20:23:02.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8774" CreationDate="2014-02-12T18:55:05.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a cell phone with video recording 'on' in the glove box and close it to confirm if the light goes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure amps on the battery and then start pulling fuses to see if you can determine the system causing the drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4485" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T18:55:05.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8780" CreationDate="2014-02-12T20:17:11.963" Score="1" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I have just moved to USA, and we need a car immediately. This is my first time in US so I didn't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a budget around 7-8k for our first car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at some Mercedes cars from year 2002-2003 that can be purchased for this amount or less. The mileage on those cars is really big, the average mileage is about 150.000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've been born in Europe I have enormous respect for Mercedes car and I've seen these cars getting exported from Germany at 200-300k kilometers to other countries with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my wife prefers more lower mileage type and since I don't know much about cars myself except when that light on a dashboard blinks I take it to the mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain is the mileage really that important, if the car is in the good condition (or at least if it appears so) and can perhaps a Mercedes from year 2003 be a better deal than let's say some Nissan from 2008?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is really age/mileage that important if the particular car has a good reputation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4496" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T00:23:32.947" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T00:23:32.947" Title="Looking at car mileage" Tags="|mercedes-benz|car|used|buying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-02-15T10:50:26.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8779" CreationDate="2014-02-12T22:19:10.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all welcome to the States. I hope you find it enjoyable here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, mileage is the number one thing I consider when purchasing a used vehicle. One problem as of late is, there is a hand held device which can reset the mileage to whatever the unscrupulous person wants it set to. A Carfax (or the like) report can help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't go much past 100k miles for any used vehicle. This is just personal preference, but considering your budget, you may not have a choice. If you want to purchase a Mecedes, your choices are going to be slimmer. I would highly suggest you don't be brand loyal here and shop around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plan is to get a vehicle which will be used for a couple of years, then replaced with a newer one, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Get your higher mileage Mercedes and don't worry too much about it. If you expect it to last you for many, many years to come, or expect to put a ton of mile on it before your next purchase, plan accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any car depends on how it is maintained maintenance wise. If the original owner did not take care of it, it could break down tomorrow, and this pertains to all makes and models. The main problem with used cars is that you don't really know the maintenance history of it, even if they show you receipts. This is just one of those things you have to put up with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate this somewhat, you can do a Carfax report (or the like), this isn't fool proof, but can provide some insight. You should also check the vehicle against edmunds.com or kbb.com (though I have found Edmunds a little more accurate). Vehicles bought from an individual can usually get you a better deal. Don't be afraid to work them over on the price no matter where you buy your vehicle. Download the KBB app and use it to get a ballpark. Go with knowledge to wherever you purchase a car, as knowledge is power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T22:19:10.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2014-02-13T16:45:18.693" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a combination of a couple of problems. You didn't state how many miles on your car.  At a starting point I would get a new battery and test the alternator (there's a lot of YouTube videos on this).  Have you cleaned your throttle body and idle air control valve?  This could cause the losing power at low speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4485" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T16:45:18.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-13T18:04:59.013" Score="3" ViewCount="10539" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Jetta GL 2.0 2005 automatic transmission, struggles to start and it wont go past 20 mph when it does. It only starts if I step on the gas pedal while starting. It makes a weird sound just after the motor starts and sometimes it just turns off when I'm at a stop light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4497" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T21:49:58.227" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T19:22:16.547" Title="Jetta 2005 won't go past 20 mph" Tags="|starting|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8786" CreationDate="2014-02-13T19:06:24.410" Score="6" ViewCount="21088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with just over 90,000 KMs and recently the fuel gauge started to fluctuate wildly.  I had the sensor's replaced and filled the tank and it only showed half full.  So one of the new sensors was faulty, so that was replaced and all seemed good. The vehicle worked fine during this time, but I didn't know how much fuel there was.  About a month later I was driving up a slight hill and the vehicle stalled.  The electric still worked, but the power brakes and steering didn't.  I pulled over and the tried to start it and it turned over but didn't start.  After 5 minutes I tried again and it was fine.  I didn't notice if the fuel gauge was off, but I had filled up a few days before so there was three quarters of a tank of gas.  I drove for another 30 minutes without incident.  I parked in my driveway and left the car running. When I returned 2 minutes later the car had shut down.  My wife said it went to empty and then shut off.  I tried the car a few minutes later and it showed empty but started.  Then shut off.  I tried again and it went back to normal.  Then a minute later it went to empty again and died.  Electrical was still working.  I left the car and tried again a day later and it started and seemed fine.  The check engine light was on.  I took it to the dealer and they checked the code and it said the fuel sensors were bad again so they replaced them.  They didn't thinkn the sensors would lead to the car stalling the way it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is now afraid to drive without difinitive proof that the sensors caused the stall.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T21:40:47.877" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:56:59.517" Title="Could a faulty fuel level sensor cause a vehicle to stall?" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|stall|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-13T20:11:32.680" Score="4" ViewCount="7918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mini Cooper.  It keeps throwing code P1638 on my code reader on these really really cold mornings, and the engine seems to search for idle, reving betwween 500RPM and 1400RPM.  The car runs fine after it warms up, I clear the code and restart the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong, and what should I do to fix this permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4499" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T21:10:28.730" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T18:10:17.337" Title="Mini Cooper P1638 code" Tags="|engine|obd-ii|idle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8784" CreationDate="2014-02-13T21:38:14.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1638's code is: &lt;strong&gt;Throttle Valve Position Control; Throttle Stuck Temporarily&lt;/strong&gt; ... since I don't know a lot about the Mini Cooper, generally I'd say the motor for your throttle position control is sticking due to freezing or age (gummed up). This should be a user replaceable item  (mechanic not needed unless you are a complete mechanical nightmare), just ensure you are getting the correct one for your application. It appears each different engine type uses a different type (or at least a different part number) for the throttle body. Partsgeek.com has them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T21:38:14.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8783" CreationDate="2014-02-13T21:47:48.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor should not cause the engine to stall. All of the accessories not working (power steering and brakes) would be normal with a stalled engine. What I would be looking at is the fuel pump might be going bad. A mechanic can easily check this by placing a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel line to check the pressure. If the engine is losing fuel pressure, it would stall and would show up directly on the pressure gauge. If the engine is stalling as much as you say, it shouldn't take them long to figure out if this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the fuel pump is going out, this does not equate to the issues you are seeing with your fuel gauge. The are two different things, though the sensor is co-located with the pump in the fuel tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your Hyundai dealer. If you bought this vehicle new, I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; it should still be under warranty considering what you have stated with vehicle age and mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't blame your wife for not wanting to drive the vehicle as it could surely cause her to be stranded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T21:47:48.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8783" CreationDate="2014-02-13T22:44:01.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Paulster2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe you have two different issues:&#xA;Fuel sensors or related wiring&#xA;Something else that causes your car to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car only dies when the gauge shows empty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T22:44:01.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8774" CreationDate="2014-02-13T22:49:57.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 amps seems a bit much for a small glove comp light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using a multimeter and testing connections with the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T22:49:57.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2645" CreationDate="2014-02-13T23:43:24.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add to the discussion about the cause of your issue, as this page is indexed highly in google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problem is only when the engine and gearbox are cold, and the 'box performs fine in all other respects then it may be that the synchromesh's in the gearbox are starting to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this causes poor cold gear changes is thus: when the gearbox oil is cold, the increased viscosity of the oil, combined with the worn frictional surfaces of the synchromesh will prevent the generation of enough frictional force for the syncro's to do their job; that is to match the speed of the input and output shafts (which then allows the selector forks to slide the gears effortlessly together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warmer oil is thinner and allows the frictional surfaces of the syncro's to perform properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rectify this you could look at changing to an oil of the same type, but with enhanced viscosity additives that help reduce the viscosity of the oil at lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply replacing the oil may not help as the high performance synthetic oils used in modern car gearboxes (and engines) are less prone to wear (hence most gearboxes are sealed for life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accordingly, you may be able to find an additive to add to the original spec oil that may improve cold performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4501" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T14:21:58.987" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T14:21:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8784" CreationDate="2014-02-14T11:00:31.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try squirting some WD40 into the throttle body assembly first, before considering replacing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 said, sometimes the body gets gummed up or, in your case, stuck from cold - WD40 will help lubricate the body and save you some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this trick a fair bit, and usually do it once during my own mini service of oil and filter change - so every 6ish months, and never had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="3766" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T11:45:24.450" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T11:45:24.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8793" CreationDate="2014-02-14T13:14:49.130" Score="0" ViewCount="7182" Body="&lt;p&gt;not sure if this is the forum to ask this sort of question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying a 2011 bwm 335i with 16K KM on it.  What sort of issues do these cars have normally?  Should I stay away from this one, I'm just worried that I get it and turns out to be a lot of work afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4503" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T13:51:45.223" Title="How reliable is a second hand 2011 bmw 335i?" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-14T16:15:51.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8792" CreationDate="2014-02-14T13:51:45.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR;&lt;/strong&gt; Don't buy expensive exotics secondhand because maintenance costs will kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW's are usually pretty reliable, but I wouldn't buy one with 16 000km on the odometer. My reasoning is that it was probably returned because there was something wrong with it. Or it's been driven by an old man who never went over 40km/h and thus ruined the engine (lots of boring reasons like not getting hot enough to evaporate water and thus causing rust in the engine, etc) It's also a very expensive car to maintain when the service plan and/or warranty expires, which I guess it has seeing as it's a 3 year old model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make no mistake, it's an awesome car to drive but I don't think the maintenance costs are quite worth it. I'd rather spend a bit more on an M3. Or otherwise opt for a 325i or an Audi A4 2.0 Turbo of the same year. They're almost the same performance- and luxury-wise, but at a fraction of the maintenance costs. You won't believe how much extra it costs to maintain those two extra cylinders in the 335i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T13:51:45.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8796" CreationDate="2014-02-14T22:46:37.730" Score="2" ViewCount="10321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my oil changed earlier this week, the people there told me my &quot;clutch fluid&quot; was low. On my first trip after the oil change (2 hour round trip) my clutch started acting weird, it wouldn't pop all the way back out. It worked enough to change gears, but I eventually drove the rest of the way home in 4th gear for fear of messing something up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a stoplight close to home, I had to push the clutch, and it hit the floor and didn't pop back up. I was also not able to easily remove the car from gear and it stopped right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of clutch fluid before, so that sounded odd and I don't see much online about it either. I would have thought they were joking had it not been for my immediate car trouble with the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for a clutch to run low/out of fluid or is this evidence of a potentially much larger and more expensive problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4508" LastEditorUserId="4508" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T22:55:10.997" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T02:51:02.223" Title="Does clutch fluid normally run out?" Tags="|clutch|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8782" CreationDate="2014-02-14T22:50:31.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a vehicle once that would barely make it up hills and also wouldn't go more than 40 MPH or so. The vehicle was much older (1980's), though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem ended up being that 2 of the 4 cylinders weren't working due to the spark plug wires had gotten old and weren't transferring the charge from the plugs to the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a possibility for your case, you left out a lot of details about your car's behavior so for more specific assistance try to include additional details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4508" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T22:50:31.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8794" CreationDate="2014-02-15T01:17:51.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles with a standard transmission now use a hydraulic clutch. The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and a slave cylinder. It works in a similar manner as your brakes. Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to disengage from the flywheel. Under ideal conditions no topping off or service is required. A slight leak that requires an occasional topping off is not unusual in an older vehicle. As long as the reservoir has enough fluid that it doesn't draw in air you can drive it like this for quite a while. When the leak gets so bad that the clutch no longer functions it is time for a repair. The usual culprit is the slave cylinder. Replacement of the slave cylinder can be relatively simple if it is outside the bell housing. In most vehicles it is inside the bell housing which requires the transmission to be removed to affect the repair. At that point you should ask if it is time to do the clutch plate while it is apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-15T02:51:02.223" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T02:51:02.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2014-02-15T03:18:03.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which O2 sensor did they change out? You wrote he changed out B1/S1 which would be the one &lt;em&gt;pre-cat&lt;/em&gt; or the first one (upstream) which actually adapts the fuel to running conditions. The one which should have been looked at is B1/S2, or the one which is downstream ... the second one which its only job is to check how the cat is doing (mainly to check to make sure the cat is still in place). If you replace this and you still get the same p0420 code again, it's time to replace the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T03:18:03.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2014-02-15T18:07:21.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a mechanical point of view, if the engine would be at the same settings as when warm, the cold engine would have lower rpm (and stall/not start), so: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cars nowadays have a &quot;cold start device&quot; that will raise the rpm after a cold start until the engine is warm. This will offset the &quot;naturally lowered&quot; cold start rpm and can range from not completely compensating the lowered rpm to overcompensating depending on the type of cold start device and on the programming of the cold start electronics. So in that respect the answer is: no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behaviour you observe with a recent car like yours where the engine behaviour is controlled electronically has little to do with what you can expect from a engine mechanical point of view and all to do with how the engineers who developed the machine decided it should behave in a cold start with low ambient temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first stage of this cold start procedure are the first few seconds until the engine is warm enough not to stall (that's what in ancient times the choke was for, or for diesel engines the &quot;earlier injection&quot;* or the &quot;raised minimum rpm&quot; cable).  For gasoline cars, you have then a longer period where the minimum rpm is &lt;em&gt;raised&lt;/em&gt; (over the warm &quot;proper&quot; idling which you quote for your car at 600 - 700 rpm) because the convertor and λ probe need to be warmed up asap so they start to work, even if you do not drive but idle. The minimum rpm you observe during this period is still not the proper idle rpm. It is an (electronically) raised rpm in order to make the engine warm up faster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whether this raised rpm is faster or slower with colder ambient temperature primarily depends on what the engine development specified how this raising should be programmed (e.g. whether the specification goes for an increased injected volume or for a fixed rpm. &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6887539-Cold-start-up&amp;amp;highlight=cold+start+rpm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You could (should?) re-program it in another way&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to wait before driving the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is as it should be, there should not be any need of waiting more than maybe few seconds (maybe 1 - 3, but 10 would be long even with my old diesel from the pre-electronic era which of late coughs a bit on one cylinder when it is cold).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there's a bit of trouble with the engine, I'd wait to be sure it doesn't stall at the next crossing when you step off the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a description of the second stage (which in fact may be several stages) of the warming up: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I generally wait until it goes down from 1600 to about 1000 RPM before driving, which generally takes maybe half a minute or so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warming up by idling (the 600 rpm idling) is not only bad for the environment, but also for the engine. It is generally recommended to warm up the engine at moderate rpm and power, i.e. by driving in a civilized fashion. &#xA;My guess is that the raised rpm (over the warm engine idling rpm) is just the cold start device making sure the car is warming up fast &lt;em&gt;even though you refuse to start driving&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In other words, the engineer designing your engine knew that people would leave the cold engine idling and had an increased rpm programmed for the warm up phase of the engine for one or two purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;environmental norms have to be met which nowadays include the emission after cold start, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this is also better for the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* The mechanical &quot;earlier injection&quot; for diesel engines does not raise the rpm.  As the injection is nowadays electronically controlled it would easily be possible to adjust the injection likewise. I do not know whether there exist engines where this is done without raising the minimum rpm.  So I cannot even answer that the minumum rpm immediately after a cold start is always higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4510" LastEditorUserId="4510" LastEditDate="2014-02-16T02:12:59.677" LastActivityDate="2014-02-16T02:12:59.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8809" CreationDate="2014-02-16T11:15:10.150" Score="5" ViewCount="6994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased a honda Fit seeing their reasonable price and good engine power.&#xA;However I have a lag between me pushing the pedal and the engine responding. I constantly have to downshift to get any power out of my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intersections on hills are other challenging areas where I have to burn the clutch to attain higher revs before pulling away.&#xA;The engine never responds when I immedietly need power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is a drive by wire any good when it forces us to downshift in motion and burn the clutch during pulling away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T21:58:33.580" Title="Why are drive by wire systems so unresponsive?" Tags="|engine|honda|throttle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8804" CreationDate="2014-02-16T22:43:35.320" Score="3" ViewCount="3590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told twice now that the air filters for the engine and my cabin air filter are really dirty and need to be replaced. They're roughly $40 each and it seems totally unnecessary to completely replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they just be rinsed out with water and dried or does this somehow ruin the functionality? Why would you HAVE to replace them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4508" LastEditorUserId="4508" LastEditDate="2018-07-16T13:47:04.800" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T13:47:04.800" Title="Can you rinse air filters with water?" Tags="|nissan|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8803" CreationDate="2014-02-16T23:13:31.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about the in-cabin air filter, or the engine air filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, the answer is no. I mean you can do it, but the filter will not work like it is supposed to afterwards. The reason for this is they are made of paper. When you get them wet like you are suggesting, it destroys the element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the why you have to change them, once they become completely full of dirt, they restrict air flow and can cause issues in engine performance. It can also push dirt through, negating even having an air filter in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the engine air filter, you can mitigate this by purchasing a K&amp;amp;N air filter (or similar), which is washable, rechargeable, and reusable. They also have a million mile warranty. You need to buy recharge kits every 8-10 recharges, but it's by far cheaper in the long run. These types of filters are made of cotton and are backed by a wire mesh. They can also help to straighten out the airflow which can help improve performance (to a certain extent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not heard of a reusable in-cabin air filter like the K&amp;amp;N I mentioned above, though they might exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-16T23:13:31.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25153" CreationDate="2014-02-16T23:16:44.103" Score="4" ViewCount="5268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly common question all over the internet, people are asking how it's done. The story goes, this latest rendition of the Regal started off being manufactured in Germany. Since remote car starters are allegedly illegal in Europe, the Regal came with no remote start capability for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we know the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_TdZMERm7w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;capability exists&lt;/a&gt;. I contacted this dealership recently since it was their own &lt;em&gt;hacking&lt;/em&gt;, for lack of a better term, but they no longer do it. Don't know if GM called and told them to stop since they were &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk8HUx6UVLs&amp;amp;NR=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;broadcasting it on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;, or what the situation was. From that poster's YouTube vids I see he does BCM reprogramming for various GM vehicles, but doesn't respond to requests about the process or anything similar, either it's behind NDA or he doesn't play well with others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the dealership only charged ~$250 for this, so I doubt they ordered a completely different BCM, however I could be wrong. I say this because they also gave new keys (LaCrosse keys but the point being they had the remote start button on them for a true factory feel), and keys themselves aren't cheap. Tack on a BCM and there's really no profit to be made from my perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no n00b to programming, I've even worked on programming logic for a BCM, but as of now I can't find documentation on the 'net, even though I'll keep looking. If one could point me in the right direction that'd be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; need one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0029XK9E8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; to reprogram the BCM, but I'm not even sure if that's what needs to be done. Not to mention a quick google reveals those don't go for under $1K USD, and that's a little out of range for a remote starter project, factory retrofit or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stand corrected on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.dhgate.com/product/gm-mdi-scanner-multiple-diagnostic-interface/159270463.html/?utm_source=pla&amp;amp;utm_medium=GMC&amp;amp;utm_campaign=cndiag001&amp;amp;utm_term=159270463&amp;amp;f=bm%7c159270463%7c112010-VehicleTools%7cGMC%7cAdwords%7cpla%7ccndiag001%7cUS%7c112010002-DiagnosticTools%7cc%7c%7c%7c&amp;amp;gclid=CJ-HpKrp0bwCFQsSMwod7w4A1g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lowest MDI price&lt;/a&gt;, however, I wonder what the catch is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="2889" LastEditDate="2014-02-16T23:49:56.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:12:30.043" Title="How do I reprogram my 2011 Buick Regal to add remote start?" Tags="|remote-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8807" CreationDate="2014-02-17T03:18:45.490" Score="2" ViewCount="1617" Body="&lt;p&gt;So basically I made the decision of investing in a 1987 MK3 Supra with an 350 small block engine swap. The current radiator is not cutting it and the vehicle overheats after 10 miles of driving when its less than 40 degrees Fahrenheit out. Any hotter than that and it's not even worth trying to drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world, I would actually have money for a radiator that would fit properly (a 3 core radiator from a 76 Nova). However I don't have money as I'm a teenager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a wrecked 03 GMC Envoy with the Vortec 4200 engine. My plan is to pull the radiator from it and try to put it in the Supra. It'll obviously take some fabrication to make it to fit. However, the radiator will have to be on its side for it to fit. Below are the dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Nova&#xA;Core Dimensions: 26.25 x 17 x 1.25 in.&#xA;Core Material: Aluminum&#xA;Engine Oil Cooler: No&#xA;Inlet Size: 1.31 in.&#xA;Number of Rows: 1&#xA;Outlet Size: 1.56 in.&#xA;&#xA;Envoy&#xA;17.94 x 27.06 x 1 in. core size&#xA;1.31 in. inlet size, 1.56 in. outlet size&#xA;2.25 x 27.38 in. top header, 2.25 x 27.17 in. bottom header&#xA;Top right inlet location and bottom left outlet location&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big question is: &lt;strong&gt;Will the radiator be able to operate properly when on its side?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any tips for putting it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One plan I have is to relocate the battery to the trunk(I haven't done it before, but I've heard of people doing it to make room).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3823" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T14:20:21.063" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:20:21.063" Title="Will a radiator still work properly if laid on its side?" Tags="|toyota|chevrolet|radiator|overheating|sbc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8806" CreationDate="2014-02-17T07:56:34.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will. However, your biggest concern is going to be getting enough air flowing over it. Do yourself a favour and go look at the engine bay of a 200x model Subary Impreza WRX. The intercooler is mounted flat on the top of the engine and the characteristic scoop forces air onto it to cool the intake air. The same type of thing might work for your radiator (which is basically an intercooler for water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it were my car, I'd rather opt for two or more smaller radiators fitted behind the front bumper. Again, have a look at a regular turbo car's setup: the intercooler is placed below the radiator, behind the front bumper where lots and lots of high-speed air can flow over it. I'd keep the current radiator and have a second one mounted where the intercooler would go. You can call it a &quot;two-stage cooling setup&quot; and send me royalties or something ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: you may also want to double-check whether the current radiator is actually working properly. If there's a blockage somewhere, it may already explain a lot of your heat problems. It may end up saving you lots of money if it turns out you simply need to have your radiator flushed and filled with some new coolant/H20. But I wouldn't count on it. I just mention it for the sake of completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T11:11:45.580" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T11:11:45.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2014-02-17T09:31:48.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the Honda Fit is meant to have great fuel economy and having sluggish throttle response helps. Get the car to a shop that can reprogram the operating software. With mechanical systems, it was as simple as decreasing or eliminating the accelerator's free travel, which you could do with a set of pliers and some cuss words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T09:31:48.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:16:00.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To improve exhaust emissions (clean air laws), some modern cars with drive-by-wire throttle have the lag you have noticed. Aftermarket devices known as &quot;throttle controllers&quot; or &quot;throttle boosters&quot; can reduce this lag. You may be interested in reading this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-generation-gd-01-08/50073-throttle-delay-hesitation-noise.html&quot;&gt;http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-generation-gd-01-08/50073-throttle-delay-hesitation-noise.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the lack of power on hills is a separate issue. The Fit has a small engine, so it will need to be revved harder to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:16:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7113" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:39:13.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best starting point is to check for any fault codes. If you want to DIY, you can purchase an ODB2 code reader yourself. However, a good mechanic will have more sophisticated diagnostic equipment, which will make it easier to isolate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many parts to be reinstalled after a head gasket replacement, so there are many possible causes of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T13:39:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:57:59.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is restarting (eventually), so it is unlikely to be a faulty battery or alternator. The symptoms sound like a bad wiring connection or relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars often click while starting (often the other sounds mean you don't hear the click), so that might not be related to your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastEditorUserId="4518" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T02:24:23.550" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T02:24:23.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2014-02-17T14:31:10.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Allan mentioned, this engine does not have an EGR valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find these parts diagrams helpful: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=VC11&amp;amp;mospid=48821&amp;amp;hg=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=VC11&amp;amp;mospid=48821&amp;amp;hg=11&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T14:31:10.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2014-02-17T14:38:22.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that there are parts in an LSD which eventually wear out. Therefore an old LSD might require a rebuild to restore the function of limiting slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T14:38:22.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T14:48:00.813" Score="6" ViewCount="4522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that people frequently choose the GSX-R front end for a front end conversion on old bikes to improve handling and comfort.  The GSX-R was produced from 1985 through the present, and I'm assuming front ends went through major changes as technology improved.  I have found various pieces of information scattered all over, but I can't find what changed on which year, and what those improvements would mean for someone choosing a front end.  Can someone list which changes were done in which year, to assist modifiers in selecting an improvement that is appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4499" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T22:52:15.503" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T15:58:36.717" Title="GSX-R front suspension technology timeline" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|suspension|forks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8806" CreationDate="2014-02-17T20:34:40.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger question here is, what are you actually gaining? The dimensions of the Envoy radiator is only marginally bigger than the current one. Your question, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Will it work?&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is rather irrelevant. The pertinent question here should be, &quot;Will it work &lt;strong&gt;better&lt;/strong&gt;?&quot; ... The answer to this is most probably &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. You need to find another radiator which is the same dimensions as the current radiator (height and width) and have it thicker, like two or three cores thick. I know you said you are a student and cannot afford this, but obviously you are not driving it currently. If you cannot enjoy the car, what is the use. An easy way to save money on this is by going to a pull-a-part yard where you can measure out what might work, look for inlet/outlet locations, pull it yourself, and save a huge amount of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Juann's suggestion of a secondary radiator is not without merit, it would be better to figure out what is wrong in the first place. His update starts with one solution, but there are other things you should be looking at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, are you sure your thermostat is up to snuff and working correctly? A closed thermostat would exhibit the same type of overheating. Can you put a lower temp thermostat in the car (and I know the answer to this is yes). Standard temp stat for the 350 is like 195F. Put a 180F one in there and see how that works you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to look at is if there is a shroud around the fan? This is so commonly overlooked and is pretty easy to fix with some thin sheet metal or even an electric fan with its own shroud. The reason the shroud is important is, without it, the air mainly just whirls around the fan and has no direction. With it, the air is forcefully pulled through the radiator as it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of the fan, is it working correctly? If a clutch fan, is the clutch portion locking up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of things you could be doing before you change out the radiator. To me it seems you'd be doing a lot of work for little gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T20:34:40.137" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8803" CreationDate="2014-02-17T23:49:50.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cost is the issue, there may be cheaper ways to purchase an OEM air filter (eg online). However, personally I would consider even a $40 filter a cheap investment, considering it is protecting the engine from an expensive rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be interested to read the following research about the reduced filtration provided by washable-type filters:&#xA; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T23:49:50.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T03:52:07.450" Score="4" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently added a subwoofer to my car.  It's powered by a 300w JBL amp (and I also have 300w speakers).  I currently have a 180amp alternator and a Die Hard platinum battery, which both handle my audio just fine, but I hear horror stories about subwoofers dimming lights and such on cars.  I'm worried, that even if this isn't happening the high spikes that a subwoofer can draw is hard on me car, even if the alternator and battery can handle it.  Would adding a capacitor help ease the load on my system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T16:40:51.790" Title="Capacitors for cars" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8749" CreationDate="2014-02-18T08:17:56.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got this sorted in the end. For this specific model of car (EU spec Ford Focus MK1 [1998 to 2004 in Europe]) the bulb sizes are going to be H4 or H7, depending on whether you need a double filament bulb. The easiest way to tell before you start taking stuff apart is simply look in the head lamp - if you have three bulbs in there, you need H7 and if you only have two bulbs in there you need H4 (since the double filament bulb acts as both your dipped and main beam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace the bulb on the left side of the car as you look at it, right side if you're sat in it (ie: the side that doesn't have the battery) isn't much of a problem, simply remove the back of the headlamp, unclip the wiring and remove the bulb (turn the clip holding it in clockwise), swap it with the new one and put it all back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace the bulb on the other side of the car (ie: the side with the battery), I had to remove the battery in order to get the back of the headlamp, before unclipping the wiring and removing the bulb (the clip holding it in needed to be turned anti-clockwise on this side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T08:17:56.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8818" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:05:23.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/SQ/12_car_tips.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield Site&lt;/a&gt;, here is an excerpt about capacitors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people who designed your car probably didn't have subwoofers in mind when they built your vehicle. Big bass sucks up a lot of power, and most car electrical systems aren't equipped to deal with it. A capacitor acts as a buffer between your amps and your car's battery. You connect the cap inline on the power cable from your battery, as close to the amp location as possible. It stores up power from your battery, then releases it instantly to satisfy your amp's demand for the power needed to reproduce a big bass hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever noticed a big drop-off in performance after running your subs loud and hard for a minute or two? Or watched your headlights dim in time to the music while you're driving at night? A capacitor cures these problems by taking the brunt of those demand peaks away from your amp, so your amp sees a more consistent supply of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the article seems fairly complete, giving you a pretty good idea on your car audio system. As for the size of capacitor needed, Crutchfield gives the following from their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uXAvYCpkSwK/learn/learningcenter/car/capacitors/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: What size cap should I get?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; The rule of thumb is to put in &lt;strong&gt;1 Farad of capacitance for every 1,000 watts RMS of total system power&lt;/strong&gt;. But there is no electronic penalty for using larger value caps, and in fact, many see benefits with 2 or 3 Farads per 1,000 watts RMS. The larger the cap, the faster it gets ready for the amp's next big hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears capacitors can be from .5 Farad up to well over 100 Farads. If you are truly interested in what a farad represents, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia states&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One farad is the value of capacitance that produces a potential difference of one volt when it has been charged by one coulomb. A coulomb is equal to the amount of charge (electrons) produced by a current of one ampere flowing for one second. For example, the voltage across the two terminals of a 47 nF capacitor will increase linearly by 1 V when a current of 47 nA flows through it for 1 s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, overall, I don't know if you truly &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a capacitor on your system, but from the sounds of it, it won't hurt a thing (but maybe your pocketbook).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:05:23.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8818" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:18:19.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh boy, oh boy. The never ending debate on Audio caps and their usefulness. I stumbled into this world a while ago, and based on &lt;em&gt;practical&lt;/em&gt; experience with a cap, I will tell you that &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt; they will keep your headlights from dimming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'll tell you that I don't use my Cap anymore, not because of a different preference, but the amp it was connected to shorted out, and I needed room for a &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt; amp, so the cap had to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap was connected to a 2000w peak amp, and it helped with dimming headlights, and also helped with muddy bass, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all my bass was extremely stiff&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have a 2000w &lt;em&gt;RMS&lt;/em&gt; amp, 4000w peak, and yes, if I turn the bass up high enough, the headlights will dim on super hard hits, but it's really not that bad. I have the same alternator as you, so I know I'm not getting the full 4000w, but it still makes me feel better :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are strong opinions on both sides of the fence. The people opposed to them say that they actually do more harm than good, because since your alternator now has to supply current to your battery &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; your capacitor, it's not the best solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people for them say that they supply power &lt;em&gt;quicker&lt;/em&gt; than your battery, in the event of a strong peak (hard bass hit). That way, your battery isn't drained as much, thus no dimming headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 300w peak sub, I wouldn't bother with a cap. My cap was 20 Farads (yes, twenty. @ least that's what it said) and it was attached to a 2000w peak amp. I had a 700w peak amp connected to 2 12s once, I don't once recall the headlights on my '94 Grand AM dimming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:18:19.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2014-02-18T21:58:33.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I constantly have to downshift to get any power out of my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanical throttle wouldn't fix the other problem you're stuck on. DBW or not your car has a 1.5 liter engine that just isn't going to let you tackle a hill in any gear you please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan ahead for hills. Focus on shifting concisely and smoothly to prevent clutch wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T21:58:33.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-19T00:37:49.127" Score="3" ViewCount="31750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 ford f150. New water pump, new thermostat 195°, heater core has been flushed out. Problem is the heat will blow warm for few mins then blow cold air for few mins. What else should we do? We need heat! Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4528" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T11:20:02.120" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T18:32:59.860" Title="1997 ford f150 heater not working properly" Tags="|ford|heater|f-150|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2014-02-19T03:54:16.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, personally to me the best thing you can do is find out what your car idles at, downshift at the lowest rpm possible to maintain traction and engine quality. Brake when needed but try and predict when you need to have already let off the accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4529" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T13:01:09.853" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T13:01:09.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-19T04:56:33.770" Score="0" ViewCount="23089" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 2009 Holden Barina TK with 44,000 km on the clock. The mechanic is recommending that it's time to change the timing belt, but it seems to soon to me for such a costly procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I've had them changed in other cars it's been closer to the 150k service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastActivityDate="2018-06-02T15:24:07.013" Title="What is the recommended interval change a Holden Barina timing belt?" Tags="|timing-belt|service|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8825" CreationDate="2014-02-19T05:20:23.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a blend door actuator in the heater box; that should open when you turn the knob to &quot;hot&quot;, allowing warm air to come out. It is probably stuck, or it's not operating correctly. Could be a bad actuator, or a problem with the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4530" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T11:16:25.127" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T11:16:25.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8830" CreationDate="2014-02-19T06:22:35.163" Score="3" ViewCount="4674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan FB 15 car. Today I can hear some humming sound from the front of the car. I'm not sure whether it comes from the engine or wheels. &#xA;It's happening all the time. But when I increase the speed, the humming sound occurs more.&#xA;But when I break, humming sound stops. Is it coming from hub razor? &#xA;To solve this problem what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4336" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T11:45:25.183" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T11:45:25.183" Title="Humming sound from car when driving" Tags="|wheels|car|noise|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8829" CreationDate="2014-02-19T07:16:04.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To determine whether it's coming from the hub (and on which side), shift into neutral and lift the front of the car. (Set the parking brake and block the wheels very well!) Spin the wheel rapidly with your hand. You should be able to hear the same noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repair, usually you replace the hub. It is possible to repair a hub by repacking the bearings, but it might be a bit much for DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T07:16:04.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8827" CreationDate="2014-02-19T07:43:07.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that car specifically, but in general, Holdens have their timing belt (&lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; waterpump) replaced every 75000km to 120000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But open your car's service booklet. It should tell you the service schedules and what you need to do at each interval. Usually all of them will suggest at least inspecting belts for wear. Keep in mind that a broken timing belt will cause major engine damage, usually in the form of bent valves and pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T07:43:07.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8832" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-19T14:43:01.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small-block Chevrolet (SBC) engine is a series of automotive V-8 engines using the same basic small (as compared to the big block Chevrolet engine) engine block. Retroactively referred to as the &quot;Generation I&quot; small-block, it is distinct from subsequent &quot;Generation II&quot; LT and &quot;Generation III/IV&quot; LS, and &quot;Generation V&quot; (LT/EcoTec3) engines. The Gen-I SBC was produced from 1957 to 2003. Different displacements were produced, including 262, 283, 302, 305, 327, 350, and 400 cubic inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T14:49:11.583" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:49:11.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8833" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-19T14:43:01.860" Score="0" Body="Small Block Chevy - referring to the line of Chevrolet V-8 engines" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T14:49:07.410" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:49:07.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8835" CreationDate="2014-02-19T15:35:27.390" Score="10" ViewCount="15200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having trouble starting my car (needed to jump it twice, once in the morning, and once in the afternoon).  Sometimes it would make a clicking noise when trying to start or it would be silent.  Using a multimeter I checked the following voltages on the battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Running: 13.5&#xA;Car Off: 12.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disconnected the battery overnight to see if there was a drain, but the car still wouldn't start the next morning.  I checked the voltage and it started at 11.3 and creeped up to 11.5 as I left the multimeter connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what could be wrong?  Is it a bad battery?  The car is a 2008 Pontiac G6 and the battery was purchased in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4532" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:49:54.767" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:49:54.767" Title="Car Battery Dying Overnight - Disconnected" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8834" CreationDate="2014-02-19T15:52:49.850" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is bad. You need to get a replacement ... the one you bought may still be under warranty, though probably pro-rated at this point. More than likely, your current battery has a bad cell in it which doesn't accept the charge it is supposed to. Since batteries are built with multiple cells configured to work in series, one cell is all it takes to make the whole thing bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T15:52:49.850" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6584" CreationDate="2014-02-19T20:10:56.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found my problem was green/white wire at rear right was kinked. this is located by bulbs on quarter panel, there's a cluster of wires connected to white female connection. Just wiggle with a little inward force. Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4533" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T20:10:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2014-02-20T01:12:04.110" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem is that the ABS system needs to be reset. Find an empty parking lot, gun it, then slam on the brakes initiating ABS. Do this 3-4 times and your problem will be fixed. I just saved you over $1,000 in unnecessary repairs. You're welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4536" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T01:12:04.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-20T11:15:40.727" Score="4" ViewCount="5293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if its paint or cement, but my car is covered with droplets of it. I had my car washed, but its still there. Its removable if you scrape it with your nail. Is there any liquid material that I could wipe on it to take it off? Thanks in advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4538" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T14:25:29.820" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T03:39:31.333" Title="How to remove droplets of paint on my car?" Tags="|paint|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8838" CreationDate="2014-02-20T12:09:20.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you try something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JKGII&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turtle Wax Bug &amp;amp; Tar Remover&lt;/a&gt;. Not knowing exactly what the substance is on your finish, I'd start light and go stronger from there. The Bug &amp;amp; Tar stuff will do it's thing without damaging your paint finish. As you get more involved in what you are trying to do to remove the substance, the greater risk you'll have in damaging the finish. I'm not sure a clay bar will work, mainly because it's usually used on grime of a finer nature than what you are talking about. I wouldn't exclude it from what you try and it won't damage your finish, but will probably take some elbow grease to get it to work. You may also try waxing these areas, as wax gets under/around the contaminant, it will get it to release. Just be aware of whatever you do, to continually change out your cloth or use clean areas of the cloth. If you don't, you run the risk of scratching your finish by rubbing the contaminants back and around everything (hope that makes sense). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T12:09:20.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8581" CreationDate="2014-02-20T17:11:32.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end, the VW dealer ended up having it over a week. Initially they thought there was a parasitic leak because they had put a new battery in my car and nothing happened for a few days but then one morning the lights were on. They did some more research and ended up finding out that there was moisture in my dash that was causing the lights to trip, probably the water was freezing and expanding and that's why. They said it could have happened when someone was detailing my car and pressure washed it and somehow forced water in the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then replaced the headlight switch and along with a new battery, the problem seems to have been fixed. Thanks for all the feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4361" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T17:11:32.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8846" CreationDate="2014-02-21T01:58:18.560" Score="4" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace a tube in my Ford Focus 2000. I tried to look up the schematics for the engine to see what the part is called but I'm pretty newbie so I don't know what I'm doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckly the tube is quite obvious and I have found an image that shows exactly where it's located. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nN0Vn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the tube that sticks out from the engine (if the picture doesn't make it obvious enough). I just need to know what I'm looking for when I'm going to go buy one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T07:34:05.963" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:43:26.630" Title="Replacing a tube on the engine" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8845" CreationDate="2014-02-21T02:19:47.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That should be the &lt;strong&gt;PCV Valve / Crankcase Ventilation Hose&lt;/strong&gt;. You can find it on Rockauto.com for about $12 + shipping. Motorcraft part number KCV118 (as long as your car has the SOHC engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T02:19:47.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8981" CreationDate="2014-02-21T02:28:02.227" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently (well quite recently about 7 months) replaced the SOHC in my 2000 Ford Focus. The cylinder was busted which made the car choke and eventually die when stopped at the red lights. It initially caused no trouble when driving but eventually car would start loosing power and started turning off in higher gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I replaced the overhead cam everything seemed to run smoothly for a while but now the car is choking when parked in neutral again. I wonder what are possible causes for this problem? Did the previous mechanic botch the job? Should I take my car to the mechanic right away to prevent further damage or it doesn't really matter if I wait until the car fails completely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T11:19:24.103" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T02:32:18.403" Title="Ford focus choking in neutral" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T03:44:34.167" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of months ago my cruise control in my ford focus 2000 stopped working. I have used it extensively in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now When i press the on and set button the green cruise light turns on but it does not hold the speed which i set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything i can try to do before i turn the car over to the mechanic to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any idea how much a repair like that could cost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T10:53:02.090" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T11:13:30.860" Title="whats going on with my cruise control" Tags="|ford|focus|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8825" CreationDate="2014-02-21T04:54:21.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fords often have a heater core bypass that allows coolant to bypass the heater core, kinda like a pressure relief valve. To test it, warm up the engine and pinch the bypass closed (wrap a towel around the hose if you use locking pliers to avoid cutting it) which forces coolant through the heater core. Check to see if you have  heat...if so then put a valve in the bypass hose and close it off during the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If still no luck then...&#xA;     -check the coolant level-&#xA;     -Check radiator cap-&#xA;     -Bleed the system-&#xA;     -Pressure check the system-&#xA;     -change thermostat-&#xA;     -check blend door operation-&#xA;     -Check heater control switch-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have heat while revving the engine but no heat at idle, check your water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T04:54:21.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8848" CreationDate="2014-02-21T11:13:30.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did it stop working about the time you had the work done to your car (about 7 months ago I think you said)? Could be your mechanic didn't hook it back up, either physically or electronically. If so, take it back to &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; mechanic and have them take a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the photo you posted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8845/replacing-a-tube-on-the-engine&quot;&gt;your other thread&lt;/a&gt;, there are two cables which are to the right of the oil filler cap and to the left of your red circle. One of those cables goes to your accelerator pedal, the other goes to cruise control. Check to ensure both of those are attached to your throttle body (on the engine side). Also, follow those two cables back the other way. One will go to the firewall and into the cabin. This is attached to your accelerator pedal. The other one should be attached to a diaphragm or electric servo. If a diaphragm, ensure this is attached to a vacuum source. If a servo, it should have power/control wires plugged into it. If you find a socket on it without a wire plugged into it, you've probably found your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost on repair is going to depend on what is wrong and where you take it. No way to tell you over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T11:13:30.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T13:31:35.703" Score="2" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is possible to buy some advance monitoring system and implement in a normal car. Monitoring systems like collision avoidance sensor, parking sensor, lane detector, and many more are only available in advanced and expensive cars. So is it possible to buy such systems separately and implement in a ordinary car. If any one has any idea please do let me know where i could get this..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4548" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T13:41:33.460" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T13:51:20.643" Title="Is it possible to buy advance monitoring sensors for a normal car?" Tags="|automotive-design|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8851" CreationDate="2014-02-21T13:40:56.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly buy parking sensors from various places - including major online retailers and auction sites. I'm not aware of any of the others having made it to the aftermarket scene yet, but I'm sure it will only be a matter of time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T13:40:56.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8853" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8854" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" Score="0" Body="Questions regarding aftermarket upgrades and additions to cars (not including audio, which is covered separetely). Please ensure these are kept on-topic for this board" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T13:42:30.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8857" CreationDate="2014-02-21T15:20:53.987" Score="4" ViewCount="3816" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Car&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.6L Ford Focus estate, made in 2000. It is right hand drive, although I doubt that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Issue&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ignition key is turned from &amp;quot;On&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;Start&amp;quot;, there is a click (sounds like a relay behind the glovebox) and all power goes in the car. The battery is fine as the lights work perfectly up until the point of turning the key to &amp;quot;Start&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some time (minutes) power returns to the car and I can attempt to start again. All power goes, as the radio is reset to factory and the clock is reset to midnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MIL / Check Engine light is on, however my bluetooth scanner with various apps on my phone cannot read a code from the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the starter bad, or is there something else it could be, such as grounding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T01:12:53.907" Title="Ford Focus - bad starter?" Tags="|electrical|ford|ignition|focus|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T16:47:40.927" Score="3" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 Honda Civic that will occasionally die in neutral. This is what I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace both O2 sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace MAP sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace Air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added Lucas treatment to fuel tank &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after the above changes, occasionally when coasting in neutral the rpm's will eventually drop to 0 and the engine will die. It starts back up just fine. My engine and fuel mileage have definitively improved with all the changes, especially after using Lucas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4549" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T18:27:46.397" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T08:17:22.143" Title="97 Honda Civic dies in neutral" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8855" CreationDate="2014-02-21T17:34:01.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like there is an issue with the ground at the battery. Sometimes it appears there is a good connection there (especially when using side post terminals), yet there is only enough of a connection to allow the low amperage stuff to work. Then, when you turn the key, the starter starts to engage, but then continuity is lost because there is not enough of a connection at the terminal to support the amperage load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try tightening the battery terminal to see if you can get a better connection. Don't over tighten, though, as this can strip out the threads (on a side post) or break the post clamp on a top post. Also, try cleaning the terminals could help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T17:34:01.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8856" CreationDate="2014-02-21T22:53:03.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try replacing the main relay, and the distributor cap and rotor is also a likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001KSEKCK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-203-0129-Main-Relay/dp/B001KSEKCK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4436/1999-honda-accord-coupe-stalls-after-warm-startup-and-shaky-idle-tsb/4641#4641&quot;&gt;1999 Honda Accord Coupe Stalls After Warm Startup and Shaky Idle TSB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T22:53:03.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8856" CreationDate="2014-02-22T00:49:10.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fix the oil leak then replace the distributor assembly. Oil covers the cam sensor eye inside the distributor causing the ecm to lose its position and stall out. Pull the distributor cap and see if any oil has gotten inside the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T00:49:10.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8855" CreationDate="2014-02-22T01:12:53.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The click sound means there isn't enough current (amps) supplied to the starter to physically turn the motor. Try hitting the starter (give it a decent smack with a wrench or hammer) while a friend turns the key. Check battery voltage (12.6 volts) AND cranking amps. check for a voltage drop and a parasitic draw. It could be a ground issue but I'd start with the battery and starter motor first, both are common issues and easier to check than chasing down electrical gremlins or bad wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T01:12:53.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-22T01:57:50.000" Score="4" ViewCount="19561" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Pontiac has started shifting hard and sometimes taking a loooong time to find the gear. My first suspicion is that it has MDS (Multiple Driver Syndrome), so I'd like to try the cheapest option of resetting the adaptive part of the adaptive transmission. On other cars (BMW?) it's as simple as turning the key on and holding the accelerator down for 30 seconds, but this didn't seem to do anything for mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifts hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes a long time to shift&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feels like it doesn't &quot;engage&quot; all the way, when starting (it feels like the clutch is slipping... but it doesn't have a clutch...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't shift out of overdrive consistently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these happens all the time. All of them are pretty intermittent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll accept instructions on how to reset the computer, and/or alternate cheap solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T13:42:37.813" Title="How can I reset the adaptive transmission on my Pontiac G6?" Tags="|transmission|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7937" CreationDate="2014-02-22T02:24:37.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether it can be done or not, I don't know, but it is unlikely that changing the shocks will significantly affect what you feel in your back. Comfort issues are far more likely to be caused by riding position, seat quality/age, and seat shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had similar problems due to an old seat and resolved them by cutting a memory-foam pillow to fit his seat and re-upholstering with the memory-foam as an added padding (keeping the original padding too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always had trouble riding street-bikes because of the far forward riding position. This is why I ride a V-Max, you get the super speed and the comfortable riding position ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T02:24:37.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8782" CreationDate="2014-02-22T02:57:38.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only three things that will reasonably cause this problem... (the fourth is very expensive... and very sad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is not getting enough air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is not getting enough fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is not burning the air and fuel it has&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Technically, there could also be something physically causing a very high load to be added to the engine's normal work. This would be something like a VERY bad transmission, a frozen wheel bearing, dragging the back seat behind the car, or something else very obvious, and very expensive. But enough of that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why might the engine not be getting enough air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air filter (or some other part of the airway) is clogged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something electrical has gone wonky and the computer is not giving the engine the right amount of air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why might the engine not be getting enough fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel filter (or some other part of the fuel system) is clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel pump is not providing enough fuel (or enough pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something electrical has gone wonky and the computer is not giving the engine the right amount of air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without more details, it's kind of hard to guess which of these things might be the problem. I hope this helps you narrow it down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T02:57:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8856" CreationDate="2014-02-22T06:05:06.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is it's related to the fuel system. So I'd be testing the fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is fine, then check the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T06:05:06.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8869" CreationDate="2014-02-22T08:00:46.853" Score="-1" ViewCount="1647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planing to buy a new car that has to be good enough to be used everyday . I have tried the speranza and the brilliance but weren't good and not reliable to be used everyday . Many friends suggested the mitsubishi espicially the mitsubishi lancer 2007 . So I want to know every disadvantage of it in every possible way and if its good enough to buy it or not. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4522" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T17:54:29.790" Title="The disadvantages of mitsubishi lancer 2007" Tags="|engine|brakes|automatic-transmission|performance|power|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-22T23:16:28.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8861" CreationDate="2014-02-22T08:58:58.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars can be &quot;reset&quot; by disconnecting the battery for 20 to 30 minutes. I would caution that this is going to reset your car's clock and make the OEM radio unit ask you for a PIN code before you can use it again. Make sure you have this info &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; you do this. You're also going to trigger an alarm if you take too long before disconnecting the battery (10 seconds from taking your key out of the ignition in most cars. Don't panic, it's normal. Just use your alarm remote or &quot;unlock&quot; your car buy turning the key in the driver's door lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would also caution you to have your transmission fluid level checked. Transmissions struggle to engage and shift rough when the levels get low or the fluid gets old and dirty. Software will usually do a good job of shifting correctly, even if the shifts are a bit slow for your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T08:58:58.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8867" CreationDate="2014-02-22T09:08:06.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy tiger. That's a lot of information you're asking for there. All I can say is that the Lancer is probably the best value for money sedan you can buy if you consider the feature level, engine and build quality. They're quite reliable, but parts are a bit expensive for my liking. But if you're one of those lucky people who live in a 1st world country, that won't be such a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expensive things to look out for (not specifically a Lancer problem, but rather any car) are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creaking power steering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blown lights (may mean that there is a short somewhere which could at some point set fire to your wiring loom).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipping clutch (revs go up but speed stays the same).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;difficulty getting the car into 1st and/or 2nd gear. This usually means the fluid level is low, but it can also mean the synchro gears are worn out and would need to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electric components not in working order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS not ABS'ing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smoke from the tailpipe. Doesn't matter if it's white or black. It means that car wasn't taken care of and in modern cars, means you'll have to replace catalytic converters, MAF sensors, etc. Catalytic converters contain platinum, so it's a fair bet they're expensive to replace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Lancer is a great car. It's not immune to problems, but they're solid and good value for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T09:08:06.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7524" CreationDate="2014-02-22T11:15:46.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had the same problem on a late 2005 W169. Note you do not need to remove the door card if you just want to remove the door lock cylinder and exterior handle.&#xA;Once you've loosened the bolt holding the cylinder accessed from the side of the door (On ours it was a T20 - T15 would work but there's a chance of rounding off the head) there is a catch above the bolt head which basically is still holding the cylinder. This needs to be pushed down so it covers the bolt head, this will then allow the cylinder to be pulled out. &#xA;You access this using a thin screwdriver in the same way you undid the T15 and flip the catch down. It pivots from the left over the head of the bolt.&#xA;If you shine a torch in the acces, you can just make out the catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refit is reversal, it's useful to practice with cylinder out to make sure the you can reset the catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4553" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2017-06-18T08:33:15.310" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T08:33:15.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-22T13:45:47.057" Score="6" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a brake caliper fail to release on me shortly after getting my car back from the shop (long story condensed is: took months to get done due to rust and lack of available parts from a wheel bearing failure and hub overheating).  It's the caliper on the corner involved in the &quot;long story&quot; event.  I initially wrote off the failure to old age/sitting unused/damage from the overheating event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the caliper on the car (after experiencing high wheel heat and brake smell from that corner), and the piston pressed out fine under hydraulic pressure, but was extremely tough to push back in.  Based on other vehicles I've done, that sounds like a bad caliper to me.  So, I pulled it apart and rebuilt it.  Cleaned up beautifully, old parts all match to spec.  During reassembly with the brand new rebuild kit &amp;amp; bench testing, I found that it's just as hard to push back in post rebuild as it was before.  Maybe that's normal?  The whole thing is to spec and has all fresh seals (although, the seal looks a lot thicker than the one that came out, but that could be age?) and was lubed per instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the next step is to throw it on the car and see how it performs real world (at this point if it doesn't work I'll write this one off and trade it in on a re-man).  While doing the install, rather than blindly assume everything was correct, I confirmed everything with the factory manual.  It turns out that the lock and guide pins were swapped/in the wrong places!  Now I'm wondering if that could have caused the caliper to not function properly under driving conditions?  How &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; do the guide and lock pins function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX, very early in the production run so it has the rare more powerful rear brake configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2014-02-23T13:26:23.447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T05:09:21.323" Title="Can improper guide/lock pin installation cause a caliper to stick?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8894" CreationDate="2014-02-22T14:01:46.880" Score="4" ViewCount="4762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 20 year old Kawasaki ZZR600. She was running fine in December. I didn't ride her for a few weeks in January. Left the battery on maintenance trickle charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks or so ago I fired her up again. She started fine, absolutely normal. I had the choke out as normal for the slight cold. With the choke out she idles at 3,000 - 5,000 revs depending upon exactly how far out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once she's warm she idles just fine with the choke in, at 500 - 1,000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I open the throttle to rev the engine, there's a very short burst of revs, for maybe half a second, then the engine cuts out. This happens with both the choke in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming nothing has been done with or to the fuel lines and carbs since she was running fine in December, what possible causes could result in this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I write this here as there simply isn't enough room in the comments. I have marked the Seafoam answer as correct, although whether water had anything to do with it I didn't ever find out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My attempt to apply Seafoam was pretty amateurish, but it still seems to have worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The videos I watched varied in their instruction but they all seemed to include getting pure Seafoam directly into the carbs. I struggled to do this. Imagine some comedy moments trying to get a funnel into the fuel pipe, and pouring Seafoam into the funnel while running the engine to suck it through, and then cutting out before any Seafoam has got in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I drained the tank and then filled it with approx a litre of petrol / Seafoam mix - very strongly Seafoam, maybe eighth / quarter of a litre Seafoam. Then I ran the engine for 30 mins, left it a day, ran it 30 mins the next day, waited another day, etc, for 3 days or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst running the engine I played with the throttle, moving it micro-amounts looking for the point where it caused the engine to cut out. I experimented with having the choke open to keep the engine running, whilst opening the throttle enough to dip the revs without cutting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, after a couple of days, I found the &quot;bite&quot; on the throttle moving, so that I was able to open the throttle more and more before the engine would cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She appears to be running pretty well now. I intend to fill the tank up (she holds 18 litres) and empty the rest of the Seafoam in, and ride her around for a bit, see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably should still get the carbs professionally cleaned (or get myself properly equipped and on a maintenance course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastEditorUserId="4554" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T13:46:48.097" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T13:46:48.097" Title="Kawasaki ZZR600 - Engine idles ok. Choke ok. Cuts out when open throttle. Possible causes?" Tags="|motorcycle|troubleshooting|carburetor|throttle|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8867" CreationDate="2014-02-22T17:54:29.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reliability of any used car is dependent on how the previous owners maintained and treated the vehicle. If they never repaired worn parts, changed the oil (etc) then even the most durable cars can turn into giant money pits.&#xA;  Unknown variables make your question difficult to correctly answer without seeing the car in person. Have a trusted/capable shop check over the vehicle before you purchase, they know what to look/listen for and can give you a better idea how much money you'll be putting into the car over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T17:54:29.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8898" CreationDate="2014-02-23T04:54:10.603" Score="6" ViewCount="25396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the pads on the front brake of my bike replaced 2 weeks ago. Immediately I heard a rubbing noise at low speed. I thought this would be ok - that the pads just had to be worn in or something, but 2 weeks later the sound is still present, though it had diminished a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should be concerned about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T00:09:20.283" Title="2 week old disk brake pads rubbing on rotor. Is this OK? (motorcycle)" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-23T14:05:24.463" Score="3" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Nissan Micra E 03 reg &amp;amp; the problem is my fan doesn't work on settings 1 &amp;amp; 2 but does work on settings 3 &amp;amp; 4. Could you please tell me what has happened. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4559" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T21:33:56.200" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T21:33:56.200" Title="Why does my fan not work?" Tags="|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8876" CreationDate="2014-02-23T15:42:22.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a bad blower motor resistor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T15:42:22.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8882" CreationDate="2014-02-23T16:50:24.493" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new coil installed 6 months ago in my 2002 Saab 93 SE and it has been running fine until the other day when the engine started rumbling quite violently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it to a garage and after they took the coil out they found a clear, odourless liquid which appears to be leaking &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; the coil. Would assume its &quot;oily&quot; water but they aren't 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what it might be, and how or where the liquid came from? My understanding is the coil is covered, the car is in good condition and there aren't any other visible leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a new coil installed tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the part looks like if that helps.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jw2A9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4560" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:24:36.317" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:24:36.317" Title="2002 Saab 93 SE Ignition Coil - Fluid found inside, engine rumbling" Tags="|ignition-coil|saab|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8881" CreationDate="2014-02-23T17:25:39.427" Score="4" ViewCount="7749" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car&lt;/strong&gt;: 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past few days I started to feel the engine stumble.  Yesterday the engine light came on and the error was a that cylinder 4 was a misfire (there was also a &quot;running rich&quot; error, but I'm guessing that was because a cylinder wasn't burning the fuel from the misfire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I then proceeded to change the plug &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the plug wire, but I'm still having the misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit at a loss here.  Could this be fuel problems?  If so, would that technically constitute a &quot;misfire&quot;, as the plug would technically still be firing?  I would &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; a misfire should be specific to a non-firing plug.  But I'm assuming here.  And also if it was a fuel delivery problem, I'd be surprised that I'm getting a rich mixture error as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any additional thoughts on this?  Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1602" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-23T21:49:09.860" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T21:49:09.860" Title="Troubleshooting a Misfire" Tags="|engine|dodge|misfire|caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8879" CreationDate="2014-02-23T18:46:48.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things I can think of for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First - Are you sure you changed the plug/wire for the #4 cylinder? I know this sounds elementary, but you never know. When you pulled the plug out, did it look wet, or tan as it should? If it was wet, you've changed the right plug. If not, you probably want the middle cylinder (assuming a v6 engine) on the other side of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - If you are completely sure you changed the correct plug, you probably are having an issue with the coil pack. It appears, from the pictures I just looked at, that it is a single unit, with three coils firing two cylinders each (again, assuming a v6 engine). If one goes bad, you'll probably have to change the entire assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I wouldn't think it's a fuel delivery issue, seeing as how you are getting a rich (too much fuel) condition. You are right in that if you have a misfiring cylinder, you'll get rich readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T18:46:48.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8878" CreationDate="2014-02-23T19:25:19.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like someone may have just put dielectric grease on the coils/plugs when they were replaced last. Where exactly was the liquid coming out of the coil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T19:25:19.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8879" CreationDate="2014-02-23T20:21:19.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not so sure its a fuel issue. If the ecm detects a rich condition (too much fuel) then id think fuel supply is okay. If the plug isn't firing at all (dead cylinder) then all of the unburnt air and fuel from the cylinder will be sent through the exhaust to the 02 sensors. 02 sensors can only detect the oxygen levels in the exhaust gases, they cant detect fuel. So they will begin telling the ecm that too much oxygen is present in the exhaust, but don't account for higher fuel levels. The ECM will try to correct the air/fuel ratio by adjusting fuel trims (among other things) to add more gas to the mixture even if the fuel supply is fine. This will cause other cylinders to run rich and begin misfiring as well. Eventually the fuel trims exceed factory preset limits and can set a code for a rich running condition. I'd start by verifying fuel pressure is okay and replaced all the plugs at the same time. Then clear the OBD2 codes and reset fuel trims. The car may run rough for a day or two after trims are reset, but should even out as you drive and  the ecm relearns new fuel adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T20:21:19.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8782" CreationDate="2014-02-23T20:45:15.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;check your mass air flow sensor(MAF). It monitors the amount of air entering the engine. They often get dirty or simply begin to fail and the ecm can't correctly adjust the air/fuel ratio causing it to go into a limp mode in hopes of protecting the engine. Cleaning the throttle body wouldn't be a terrible idea either &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T20:45:15.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2014-02-24T07:27:35.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gained a significant increase in economy and power when I switched to platinum plugs. They warm up much faster and don't burn out like copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T07:27:35.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8876" CreationDate="2014-02-24T10:25:22.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on user4546's answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater fan is controlled by a resistor pack located somewhere under the dashboard. This usually has 3 resistors for settings 1, 2 and 3, with setting 4 being a direct connection. With time, these resistors burn out and need to be replaced - and they almost invariably burn out in order, so setting 1 will fail first, then 2 (and you have seen) and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, you can either replace the entire pack, or, in some cases, have the individual resistors changed. I can't tell from a quick googling if this is possible for that age of  Micra, but new resistor packs seem to be available from Nissan or various online suppliers - make sure you get the correct one, as it looks like '03 was the changover year between two generations of Micra (K11 and K12) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T10:25:22.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8889" CreationDate="2014-02-24T20:07:51.057" Score="2" ViewCount="4102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra with about 106,000 miles on it. For some reason, the car doesn't always start. I will try to start the car, and I can hear it attempting to start but it never does. Additionally, it almost always starts on the second attempt, if I wait about 20 seconds with the key out of the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently replaced the battery, and it hasn't made any effect. There are no check engine lights on. When the car runs, it runs seemingly ok. There's no correlation between the cold or hot weather. It has been doing this in the winter, as well as the past summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I start looking to diagnose this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T11:56:11.970" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T05:58:28.480" Title="2006 Xterra Doesn't Always Start" Tags="|starting|nissan|xterra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8888" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:57:07.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you already replaced the battery, one of the next reasonable plans of attack would be to see how dirty the air filter is or see if any of the spark plugs have been fouled. If you find the spark plugs or air filter are old, see if replacing them helps your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After those steps, I would also investigate the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T22:57:07.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8888" CreationDate="2014-02-25T00:04:50.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See what the spark plugs look like. Are they black and covered in soot/ Has oil leaked past the valve covers and soaked the plugs and wires/ are they wet and smell like gas? Spark plugs cans tell you a whole lot about your air/fuel mix and ignition.&#xA;Id make sure to check fuel pressure too. make sure pressure doesn't drop too quickly after you turn off the car and stays within spec while the engine is running at all rpms. If it seems low, try replacing the fuel filter and inspect the fuel injectors to make sure they aren't leaking or clogged. Make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged. If theres no pressure at all (0 psi) then check to make sure the relay clicks when you turn the key to the ON position. If the relay seems okay then it's likely a fuel pump or wiring issue.&#xA;Its never a bad idea to change air filters either, but you can just remove the filter and try to start the engine to determine if its causing the issue before you spend money. Just don't drive around without a filter in the car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T00:04:50.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8897" CreationDate="2014-02-25T06:17:21.550" Score="3" ViewCount="1491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a scooter (Kinetic Honda) for the last 15 years. I have observed that whenever a tire (tube to be precise) is punctured it's almost always the rear wheel. A typical reason for a puncture is nails. I'd expect that the front wheel crosses a nail before rear wheel and hence it should get punctured more often than rear wheel, but my experience shows otherwise. Can anyone suggest the possible reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4570" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T18:22:50.957" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T10:14:53.770" Title="Why does my rear scooter tire get punctured more often than the front tire?" Tags="|scooter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8892" CreationDate="2014-02-25T11:53:23.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't think there can be a specific answer (it may be due to your bad luck, or whatever), it may come down to the fact there is more weight on the back tire than on the front. The front tire can more easily overcome a puncturing obstacle such a nail or a screw, which the back tire picks up. It may also be that the front tire kicks up the obstacle and is subsequently picked up by the back tire. This is all conjecture as I don't think you'll get a &quot;scientific&quot; reason for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T11:53:23.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8872" CreationDate="2014-02-25T16:17:35.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Katana 600.  Ran some Seafoam through it and it got better, presumably cleaned up any deposits from gas sitting in the carbs too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T16:17:35.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8892" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:52:46.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are scientific explanations for this. The long and short of it is that the rear tire bears the most weight just the same as a bicycle. ( Brian, if you weren't in OH I'd say let's go for a ride so that I can witness your phenomenon )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14517/why-do-i-always-get-punctures-in-my-rear-wheel&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14517/why-do-i-always-get-punctures-in-my-rear-wheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/11736/on-a-bicycle-why-does-my-back-tyre-wear-so-much-more-quickly-than-the-front&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/11736/on-a-bicycle-why-does-my-back-tyre-wear-so-much-more-quickly-than-the-front&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:52:46.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8875" CreationDate="2014-02-26T00:35:59.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't unusual. I'd go as far as to say I'd be suspicious if I had a shop replace the front brake pads on my motorcycle and didn't hear them skimming the rotor a little. It's normal for the pads to touch the disc a little, and it's especially audible at low speed and after a fresh install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that said, if the pads are indeed rubbing enough to slow you down or become hot when you're not using them, you should be concerned and seek to rectify the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T00:35:59.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T01:07:46.323" Score="8" ViewCount="12484" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father called today to tell me that when he steps on the gas in his 99 Subaru Impreza (at normal operating temperature), the car moves dangerously slow. Does anyone else have experience with this issue and how to fix it? He was a master mechanic in the old days but never learned how to repair cars in the electronic age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4578" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T10:56:16.073" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T02:38:34.353" Title="Subaru Impreza 1999 - no power on acceleration" Tags="|troubleshooting|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8899" CreationDate="2014-02-26T02:21:12.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poor acceleration is sometimes caused by dirty spark plugs or clogged air filters. Keep in mind that the spark plugs are probably more difficult to reach on a 99 Subaru than most other cars since the Subaru has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boxer engine&lt;/a&gt;. But, if you feel up to it, you could try replacing the spark plugs ( and/or air filter if necessary ) and see if that helps the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very few clues to go off of here though, poor acceleration could be caused by many different things. With only one symptom it's hard to diagnose the problem with any accuracy, and as costly as it can be, the solution here might be to take it to Subaru mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1238/hesitation-or-low-power-at-slow-acceleration&quot;&gt;Hesitation or low power at slow acceleration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T00:03:00.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T03:26:42.610" Score="4" ViewCount="75136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Toyota Camry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Power steering is noisy and hard to turn steering wheel UNTIL engine warms up.  Then it is fine.  What's happening?  I have sucked old old fluid and put in new (Dextron II ATF per manufacturers specs) but wife says it still doing the above but not as bad.  Once engine warms up, steers like it came out of showroom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is the same noise anyone would hear when turning the steering wheel all the way to the stop. A chirping noise. Why would it be hard to turn the wheel and chirp with any movement of the wheel but then be perfectly fine after the engine gets to normal operating temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4578" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T17:22:47.923" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T04:05:40.320" Title="Power steering noisy and hard to turn UNTIL engine warms up" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T18:46:15.050" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 81 amc concord. I drove it and it died and went to start it again there was nothing. Replace starter battery and starter relay. There is no headlights no buzzer no radio no dome light. Any idea whats the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4583" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T20:06:47.993" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T23:22:24.857" Title="1981 amc concord won't start" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:56:10.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a fusible Link that possibly has blown, where the positive battery cable connects to the starter relay, there is a smaller red wire usually has heat shrink on it. replacement fusible link avail at NAPA, Advance auto etc, but could also use a fuse and holder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qot2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://theamcpages.com/images/electric/alt-wiring-b.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4585" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T23:22:24.857" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T23:22:24.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8888" CreationDate="2014-02-26T22:51:25.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a theft deterrent system built in the Ign switch with a chip in the key. - have seen wornout ign switches cause weak signals (lots of trinkets weight on keyrings).&#xA;the way the question is worded, would indicate no spark on 1st try.&#xA;Try timing light on any cylinder, and yes they do work on primary side of builtin ign coils, to check if spark present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4585" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T22:51:25.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T05:02:03.553" Score="10" ViewCount="19635" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the very cold weather (here in Ohio) recently, I noticed the brakes on my 2000 Chevy Malibu were a little soft, and made a mental note to attend to them promptly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, over the course of 24 hours or so, they went from &quot;a little soft&quot; to &quot;I had to use my parking brake to stop at stop lights.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added brake fluid tonight, and over a 20 minute drive with 1/2 dozen or so stops, I noticed they still felt uber-soft, but if I pumped my brake pedal multiple times, they'd gain power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4587" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T12:22:57.967" Title="My brake fluid all left on short notice. What gives?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8907" CreationDate="2014-02-27T11:18:36.877" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you lost all (or almost all) of your brake fluid, you have a leak. Check all of your calipers (assuming disk brakes all around) to see if there is a leak at the wheels. If none there, check the soft lines (rubber lines at the wheel) for leaks. If no leaks there, check around the master cylinder and anti-lock brake unit for leaks from the lines. If you do not see any leaks here or puddles on the ground, your master cylinder may be leaking into the power booster. The only way I could tell you to check this is to disconnect the master cylinder from the brake booster and see if it is wet on the back side where it connects at the booster. This would be a long shot, but is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your reservoir is low, the fluid has to go somewhere. As @R.. stated, there is air in the lines after you added fluid to your reservoir, which would cause your brakes to be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; spongy. I'm surprised they are working at all, really. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You should not drive your vehicle until you get this figured out&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, not only for your safety, but for the safety of your passengers and other vehicles/drivers around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-01T12:22:57.967" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T12:22:57.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8907" CreationDate="2014-02-27T11:29:06.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As R.. says, the remaining softness will be down to air in the lines - this can be fixed by properly bleeding the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you do that, however, you need to establish the cause of the loss - until you do so, the car should be regarded as dangerous and must not be used. If you're in any doubt, take it to a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause of a fluid leak is a failing seal in one (or more) of the cylinders. This can be obvious in some cases (fluid spurting out when you press the pedal), and not in others - the master cylinder can fail internally and leak into the servo... Failing flexi hoses can also lead to leaks, although this is less common, they normally cause other symptoms first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T11:29:06.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="224" CreationDate="2014-02-27T16:17:04.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very known problem of this model (Porsche 924). Your WUR (warm up regulator) is faulty, and it needs to be changed. Read this link for more info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/443505-how-do-i-test-if-warm-up-regulator-bad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/443505-how-do-i-test-if-warm-up-regulator-bad.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4597" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T16:17:04.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8919" CreationDate="2014-02-27T19:37:25.673" Score="11" ViewCount="2333" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBnXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mystery Part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2008 Honda Fit, and yesterday I found this on my driveway, resting under my front end. I know little to nothing about cars, but this looks simple enough that I think I could replace it if I only knew what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the location of the rest of the part (this is the passenger side; the driver's side is still attached), this seems to be some kind of protective piece that keeps debris from ending up in my radiator from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Internet people who are smarter than me about this sort of thing: what is this dingus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T22:35:16.600" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T22:35:16.600" Title="This part fell off my car yesterday - what is it?" Tags="|honda|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8907" CreationDate="2014-02-27T20:27:04.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First:  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not drive the car until this is fixed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  You will NOT save money by wrecking your car and maybe putting yourself in the hospital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second:  if you're going to do the work yourself, get a how-to manual.  Brakes (and steering) are safety-critical systems; if they fail they put both you and those around you in danger.  Don't pull an &quot;I didn't know it was loaded!&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is 14 years old.  During braking, some components get hot enough to smoke.  This is plenty long enough for brake cylinders to corrode, seals to fail, and calipers to seize.  Have you ever changed the fluid, replaced brake discs and pads, turned the rotors, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Components likely requiring replacement due to age (to save $$ you can go for rebuilt components):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Master cylinder (corrodes, seals fail)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel cylinders (corrode, seals fail)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brake calipers (corrode, seals fail)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drum brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect hoses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brake springs (the heating / cooling cycle from brake use causes them to lose their temper and fail)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fresh brake fluid (clear).  If you see dark or cloudy fluid it has absorbed water and that causes corrosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake-bleeding kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T20:27:04.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8228" CreationDate="2014-02-27T21:04:02.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it would be the ECU.  Those are typically all-or-nothing.  Sounds more like a bad wire or electrical connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the wiring harness to the injector with an analog volt meter.  Put one meter lead to ground and the other on an injector lead while the motor is idling:  If the needle doesn't swing then try the other injector lead (if there are two, one would be power and the other ground).  Move the injector wire around because your looking for a break in it.  If the needle suddenly stops swinging -- or starts swinging if it wasn't at first -- they you have a broken wire in your harness and it will need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting voltage to the injector (no broken wire harness) then you're injector needs replacing.  I don't know what the resistance values are but if your ohm meter reads infinity then it's bad.  The reason why it would work and then quit is that the wire coil in it that operates the solinoid is touching at the break point but when it warms up the object expands and the break in the wire becomes bigger and creates a gap that electricity cannot travel across and thus it stops working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4603" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T12:09:53.997" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T12:09:53.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-28T10:36:58.430" Score="1" ViewCount="2734" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the most reliable used off-road (awd/4wd/4x4) vehicle for occasional traveler expeditions to more remote areas of Eastern Europe, Russia, Middle East or Africa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;highest possible travelling comfort while maintaining high reliability&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;probably simple turbo diesel engine (since petrol/gasoline might not be available at all or is not unleaded?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;good fuel economy (traveling manythousands of km)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;servicing ease also a very big key factor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;possibility of &quot;expedition traveler tuning&quot; (decent top luggage rail etc.) is a plus&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The budget is not really fixed but the intention is somewhere around $5000. The vehicle should be available to buy in Europe (I live in the Czech Republic). What I have read so far it seems that Japanese vehicles (like Mitsubishi Pajero) are more reliable than US (like Jeep Grand Cherokee) and European ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T10:46:28.657" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T11:54:36.037" Title="Most reliable used off-road with good fuel economy (for travelling expeditions)" Tags="|4wd|awd|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-28T12:30:02.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8917" CreationDate="2014-02-28T11:54:36.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general consensus on this is that it depends where you are intending to go - you want something that is common in the local area so that parts are readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two standard choices are Land Rover (either Defender or Discovery) or Toyota (LandCruiser or Hilux) - Land Rovers tend to be more common in Africa, Toyotas are more common in Asia. Both have a plentiful supply of modification and expedition parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the Toyotas (and the other Japanese cars) tend to be more reliable, but harder/more expensive to fix when they do go wrong, Land Rovers are not quite as reliable but much easier to fix with limited tools and facilities, and easier to service to keep the reliability up. Both are pretty robust, so it is mainly down to personal preference and local supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd go for a Land Rover, but then I'm British!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of internet resources dedicated to this - definitely a case of doing your research and deciding what fits best with your personal circumstances and what you intend to do with the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T11:54:36.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8912" CreationDate="2014-02-28T12:40:39.030" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like the front edge of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0&amp;amp;Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&amp;amp;Ntk=Main&amp;amp;Ntx=mode%20matchallany&amp;amp;Nty=1&amp;amp;PN=0%209244&amp;amp;VN=4294967113%204294962818%204294962686%204294967132%204294966554&amp;amp;universal=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;splash shield&lt;/a&gt; (for certain values of &quot;front&quot;).  You're right that it is protecting things coming up from below: splashes, sand and general road gunk.  It's also likely part of the aerodynamics of the vehicle (admittedly a very small part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above is to an example vendor (who's selling the linked part for approximately $30 US).  However, here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-generation-gd-01-08/62945-front-splash-shield-help.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;more complete breakdown of the parts&lt;/a&gt; in that area:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7O3A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there are a lot of little trim bits.  None of them are super critical but I'm sure it's annoying to drive around without them (so tacky!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T12:40:39.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-28T18:01:37.140" Score="3" ViewCount="3927" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to completely remove all seats except driver's + front passenger's one from Ford Galaxy Mk3 (production started in 2006) to get a very flat loading floor? I was not able to find this information online - it seems to me you can only put the backrests down to achieve flat loading space, but not to remove the seats completely, which still gives you less space that without seats at all. It was possible in Mk2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T19:21:32.273" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T17:21:48.077" Title="Removing all seats except driver's + front passenger's one from Ford Galaxy Mk3 (2006)" Tags="|ford|seat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-28T18:04:21.333" Score="2" ViewCount="3949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to completely remove all seats except driver's + front passenger's one from Volkswagen Sharan 2nd gen. (production started in 2010) to get a very flat loading floor? I was not able to find this information online - it seems to me you can only put the backrests down to achieve flat loading space, but not to remove the seats completely, which still gives you less space that without seats at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T19:21:07.583" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T12:46:18.060" Title="Removing all seats except driver's + front passenger's one from Volkswagen Sharan 2nd gen. (2010)" Tags="|vw|seat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8921" CreationDate="2014-02-28T23:54:06.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vybermiauto.cz/autoblok/clanek/test-volkswagen-sharan/ridicova-zona#kabina-a-kufr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online resource&lt;/a&gt; in Czech (&lt;a href=&quot;http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=cs&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;js=n&amp;amp;prev=_t&amp;amp;hl=cs&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;u=http://www.vybermiauto.cz/autoblok/clanek/test-volkswagen-sharan/ridicova-zona#kabina-a-kufr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;translated to English by Google&lt;/a&gt;). It says: &quot;Seats are just like the Ford Galaxy and S-MAX can not be removed from the car, but fold into the floor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T12:46:18.060" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T12:46:18.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8920" CreationDate="2014-02-28T23:56:05.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vybermiauto.cz/autoblok/clanek/test-volkswagen-sharan/ridicova-zona#kabina-a-kufr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online resource&lt;/a&gt; in Czech (&lt;a href=&quot;http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=cs&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;js=n&amp;amp;prev=_t&amp;amp;hl=cs&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;u=http://www.vybermiauto.cz/autoblok/clanek/test-volkswagen-sharan/ridicova-zona#kabina-a-kufr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;translated to English by Google&lt;/a&gt;) about VW Sharan. It says: &quot;Seats are just like the Ford Galaxy and S-MAX can not be removed from the car, but fold into the floor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T23:56:05.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T14:30:19.503" Score="2" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Volvo 440 (1992 1.8 LI with single point injection) the engine temperature warning light is always on. The gauge seems to work okay and fluctuates between low and middle (although it does seem to take a long time to move from the cold position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might the cause of this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4615" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:17:44.347" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:17:44.347" Title="Engine temperature light always on" Tags="|cooling-system|volvo-440|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9086" CreationDate="2014-03-01T18:22:39.107" Score="2" ViewCount="20975" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 F150 with 255xxx miles has a squeaking under the hood. It is only present while the throttle is pressed while driving. It is loud enough to be heard in the cab, but not over the radio. It changes with engine RPM. It will not squeak while in neutral at any engine RPM. As soon as you lift your foot while driving it vanishes. Turning the A/C on/off doesn't change anything. The engine is a 4.6L V8 with the 4 speed automatic transmission, all original components as far as I know. The serpentine belt is brand new. No drivability problems, no CEL, with a mode 6 scan tool I do get a code for the EGR being open too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squeak is never there on a cold engine. If it is under &amp;lt;50 F outside it never squeaks no matter what the engine temp is. If the ambient temp is &gt; 50 F it starts making the noise once the engine temp gauge moves to the normal range. I've looked under the hood while idling and the none of the pulleys are wobbling and the tensioner doesn't jump when you open the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-01T19:01:04.147" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T15:15:37.920" Title="Squeaking under the hood only while throttle is pressed" Tags="|engine|ford|belt|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:04:37.463" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ford expedition 2001 with about 250K miles on it. A fantastic vehicle. However every time I go for inspection it costs me a couple of grand (last couple of years). This time I did not have the money to spend on it so returned the plates and it has been sitting on my driveway for last 2 months. I hate to give it away to a dump because I feel the car is not dead yet as other than inspection issue it drives great before i returned the plates that is.&#xA;I am an utter newbie when it comes to car repair. So the question is can I do something about it? or should I just give it away.&#xA;Someone mentioned a computer which will do the diagnosis and I can buy it from Radio Shack? or Pep Boys and reset the &quot;Warnings&quot; and then get it inspected? Is that doable? I love my truck and hate to lose it if there is something possible to save it.&#xA;Thanks in advance for your advice/suggestions/recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4617" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T19:51:39.810" Title="Ford Expedition sitting on my driveway" Tags="|ford|inspection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-04T00:57:53.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:10:16.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can it be the fan belt. It probably becomes loose and slips as it heats up? When cold it is tight enough to not slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4617" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T19:10:16.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:38:09.283" Score="2" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Rebel and it's been running great for the last year. It does have about 8000 miles on it but I haven't had any serious issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, I noticed the idle was higher than normal. It seems to be idling very high in all gears. I can't figure out why this happened all of the sudden. Before I take it in to the Honda dealer, I wanted to get an idea of why this might be happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:52:23.753" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:52:23.753" Title="2008 Honda Rebel 250 idle problem" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|carburetor|idle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T15:40:21.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8926" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:51:39.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are far too many bits of information needed here, and even if we had all the diagnosis information it would still come down to an opinion. Some people have cars that cost more each year than their value, but they keep maintaining them. Others ditch theirs at the first sign of trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must remember though, that the inspection is very important - if the car is unsafe, it doesn't matter if you think it drives great. It could kill you, or others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is take it to a garage, get them to give you a full quote for repair and warranty, plus a realistic expectation of costs over next couple of years, and then you can work out whether that is a net positive or negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T19:51:39.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T23:50:37.540" Score="2" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Ford Escort 1992, 1.9l, manual.&#xA;Recently my default-idle had been really high and so I did some research and figured out that my brake booster probably broke. So I went to the junkyard and got a brake booster from a 93 Ford and replaced it. So far so good.&#xA;The brake booster seems to work, however, I have to push the brake pedal almost until the bottom until the car is slowing down. Furthermore, recently (and this had happened with the old brake booster too at the very end) - brake fluid leaked INTO the car on the driver's side. It comes out of the clutch-pedal. Therefore, I was wondering whether both of these problems are connected? Is it possible that there is just not enough pressure in the brake-lines?&#xA;I did bleed the brakes after changing the brake booster - but did not bench bleed the brake master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T13:35:06.940" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T20:28:50.280" Title="Ford Escort - Brake Fluid leak in car" Tags="|ford|brakes|leak|brake-fluid|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-02T06:16:26.337" Score="1" ViewCount="7399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Honda Civic. I had its front brake pads replaced 2 months ago and had the rotors replaced. Now (and perhaps before--I can't recall) whenever I'm braking and hit a bump, the brakes lose their grip on the rotors and I no longer can slow down. I have to press the brakes much harder in order to stop. What could be going on and how can I fix this? It is especially terrifying coming off a freeway and hitting minor bumps where the road changes from concrete to asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My brake job is guaranteed through Midas, so I shouldn't have to worry about the possibility that it was done wrong. If I recall correctly I requested ceramic brake pads. Also, multiple sources tell me that the rear brake pads are fine--though I haven't looked at that myself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update: Took it to Midas, the master cylinder is going out.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4624" LastEditorUserId="4624" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T22:14:48.537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T05:22:04.557" Title="Brakes lose grip when car hits bump" Tags="|honda|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8932" CreationDate="2014-03-02T13:31:03.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would not drive it anymore until you get it sorted&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Not having the ability to stop is pretty dangerous. Make your final trip one to the repair shop (Midas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, take it back to Midas and have them figure out what the issue is. If the problem started when they replaced the pads/rotors, it's probably something they did or didn't do. Anybody can screw things up, even a shop like Midas. They should warrantee their work and should get it sorted out for you. As a thought, I'm wondering if the retaining bolts on the caliper(s) were put back on/torqued correctly. If the calipers are not set correctly, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; get this type of reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the ceramic pads, this should not cause you any issues in and of themselves. Brake pads do need time to &quot;bed&quot; or get broke in, but should not cause you any problems with stopping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T15:51:19.730" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T15:51:19.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-02T17:20:32.810" Score="3" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting the engine from cold on my Volvo 440 (1.8 LI, K reg) there is a loud squeal coming from the timing belt area. The noise goes away after a couple of minutes driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing belt was changed about 20,000 miles ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4615" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:17:20.420" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:17:20.420" Title="Squeal from timing belt area" Tags="|timing-belt|volvo-440|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8934" CreationDate="2014-03-02T17:35:29.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be the power steering belt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T17:35:29.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8932" CreationDate="2014-03-02T17:39:06.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just going out on a limb here...but when you're braking and you hit a bump, theoretically the tires lose complete contact with the road surface. That loss of friction between the road and the tire is whats hampering your stopping ability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4584" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T17:39:06.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8930" CreationDate="2014-03-02T20:28:50.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you change out the master cylinder along with the brake booster when you did the swap? If so, you needed to bleed the brakes when you did this (assuming this from your comment about not bench bleeding the master cylinder). This would be why you are having to press the brakes nearly to the floor to get the car to stop. If you did bleed the brakes, perhaps you didn't do it correctly or completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as leaking into the car, this could be caused from a bad master cylinder. The one you purchased from the wrecking yard may just have been bad. The leak could be occurring from the rear seal in the master or from the reservoir (seal at the master or cracked). Most wrecking yards today will give you an exchange on parts you purchase from their yard if it's bad. Check where you bought it from to see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a manual shift transmission, does it have a hydraulic actuated clutch? If so, this could be what is actually leaking and not the brake master. They both work almost identical and use the same fluid to actuate. Check your fluid level in the clutch reservoir to see if it is topped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T20:28:50.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8924" CreationDate="2014-03-03T00:23:18.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your coolant level in the reservoir. It may just be a low coolant warning light&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T00:23:18.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T05:25:29.023" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 U12 2.4l Nissan Pintara. It started running really rough one day and when I got home the exhaust manifold was glowing red hot. I changed the catalytic converter and it still is running like it was before I changed it, any suggestions please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been brave enough to drive it long enough to see if exhaust glows red again, but i am pretty sure it will as i only drove it around a couple of streets and it was pretty hot under the hood then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4626" LastEditorUserId="4626" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T00:03:37.667" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:52:40.537" Title="1989 Nissan pintara problem" Tags="|nissan|exhaust|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8934" CreationDate="2014-03-03T10:30:23.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is usually caused by a tired ancilliary belt (the one that drives the alternator etc) - as the rubber ages, it grips less well and slips more against the pulleys, especially when cold and damp. After a couple of minutes it dries out and warms up, and so stops slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing belt itself is toothed, and so cannot slip (it would cause a catastrophic engine failure if it did), and if the tensioner was failing I'd expect the noise to be constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the ancilliary belt (very cheap - the one for my car is £6 (~$10), I'd expect a Volvo one to be similar). If that doesn't fix it, it could be something more serious, but that seems unlikely to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T10:30:23.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8924" CreationDate="2014-03-03T17:24:31.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant level sensor might be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T17:24:31.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8656" CreationDate="2014-03-03T19:17:01.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you might want to check to see if you have an issue with one of your electrical components constantly draining your battery (whether your vehicle is on or off).&#xA;If you have not already, you may want to get your alternator and starter checked for shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is &quot;new&quot; and should be working fine, and you had technicians check your alternator and charging system, it sounds like you have a dysfunctional part somewhere in the system that is either shorting out or constantly draining your battery, i.e. some sort of light, door lock system, media player system, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this by using some sort of test light or multimeter and testing the battery/connections for drain while the car is off. Vehicle computer and clocks will normally have a small amount of current draw while the car is off, but most other components should not be drawing any energy. Find which wire is the culprit and find the source. Afterwards, you can try removing the fuse associated with the device in question when you have the car off to see if that stops your battery from dying. If the battery still dies, then there is probably a short to ground. If the battery stops dying, then you have correctly identified/localized your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T19:17:01.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:08:48.950" Score="1" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2004 Nissan Maxima SE, the tires are an R18.  I recently bought replacement tires and the dealer installed R17 tires.  What is the impact of this?  Should I complain?  Does it really matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4631" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T02:02:04.570" Title="The Tire dealer put a different tire on my car" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:40:12.483" Score="9" ViewCount="4267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was changing brake pads on a Nissan Almera 98 and I accidentally pumped the brake piston a bit out. I tried putting it back with a C clamp and the old pad but it won't budge. It's completely stuck! What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4632" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T15:23:43.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T07:37:53.860" Title="Caliper piston will not collapse on Almera 98" Tags="|maintenance|brakes|nissan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8943" CreationDate="2014-03-04T10:01:30.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How in the hell did he manage to get the tire on the rim in the first place? There's a whole inch difference between the two rims. But be that as it may, the impact is that your traction control system is going to freak out because the tires aren't the same diameter, and to the traction control system it's going to look like the R17 wheels are losing grip. Unless all four tires were replaced, in which case the TC won't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should complain. The R17 tires are narrower than the R18's, which makes them slightly more dangerous because you lose a tiny amount of contact surface (on paper anyway), but mostly there is a huge price difference between 17 inch and 18 inch wheels (for some reason). If you paid for 18's, you should get 18's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T10:01:30.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5591" CreationDate="2014-03-04T11:43:46.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Cinelli said, you'll have to do extensive work to the header and possibly the rods,pistons and bolts too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's a little secret: manufacturers always leave a wide and comfortable margin of error in their mass-produced engines to make them more durable. In the case of your 320i, it is entirely within safe limits to increase almost any performance-related property by 10% and still see very little extra wear. For instance, the rev limiter can be tuned to only engage at around 7000RPM (assuming it's at 6500 from the factory) or the turbo boost pressure can be increased from 0.3 bar to 0.35 bar (or add about 10 - 20% to whatever that is in PSI). I would recommend you buy a colder running thermostat and install a larger, flow-matched intercooler when you do this because what you DON'T want is a 10% increase in operating temperature. The one thing that ISN'T very lenient is the difference between safe operating temperature and &quot;blown headgasket&quot; temperature. Especially in turbo cars. Turbo cars usually run at 90 to 100 degrees celsius and at 112 degrees celsius the heat will warp your aluminium header. And it's very easy to reach that temperature in hot weather while sitting in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning: you can do exactly ONE of those things and still be safe. If you increase boost pressure AND the RPM limit, your car will break in a spectacular fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you REALLY want to rev to 8500 safely, buy a Mazda RX8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T11:43:46.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8944" CreationDate="2014-03-04T12:36:03.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the screwcap off your brake master cylinder (where the brake fluid goes), and put a rag around the fluid reservoir. This will stop you breaking the reservoir from overpressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the C-clamp, very slowly wind the piston back. When I say slowly, I do mean slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not to get any brake fluid on you or the paintwork - it will eat through everything, including skin, if given enough time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mikes said, you can use the bleeder valve, collect this fluid in a container of some sort and dispose of it properly... NOT down the kitchen sink! I'd give the winding back another shot as brake fluid is a pain in the ass to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T12:36:03.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8943" CreationDate="2014-03-04T13:07:47.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The impact is that you have been downgraded to cheaper rims (and possibly tyres) without your permission. As others have said, 17&quot; tyres do not fit on 18&quot; rims, so the rims now on the car are smaller than what you had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should ask for an explanation and, yes, probably complain that the rims were downgraded without your permission. I shouldan't make allegations, but it might be worth checking the mechanic's staff carpark for cars with rims that look like your old ones ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter? Well, if the 17&quot; tyres are good quality, the performance could be about the same. However, if the outer diameter (also known as rolling diameter) is different, your speedometer will read incorrectly. Also, there may be issues with your insurance policy if your tyres are a non-OEM size for a 2004 Maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T13:07:47.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2014-03-04T13:11:47.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it is running lean, which leads to increased exhaust temperatures. Check the fuel pressure and that the injectors are flowing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T13:11:47.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8944" CreationDate="2014-03-04T14:17:44.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe opening the bleeder will help in your endeavor. The problem is not that there is overpressure keeping the piston out, it's more than likely when your piston came out as far as it has and you applied the c-clamp, it is now cocked inside the bore and will not re-collapse or the piston seal has come out of the bore and is not allowing the piston to collapse. You need to discover what the actual problem is (I'd lean towards the &quot;cocked inside the bore&quot; premise). Continuing to apply the c-clamp onto the piston without getting it straightened out might cause damage to the bore, piston, or seal, which will incur you purchasing a new caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piston is cocked, you need to get it straightened out prior to trying to push it back in. The easiest way to do this is to take it off the car and put it into a bench vise. If you do this, ensure you have pieces of wood or something on either side to protect your caliper from damage. Gently screw the vise in to apply pressure to the piston to get it to straighten, release, then collapse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piston seals have come out of the bore, it's a lot more problematic - one which I really don't have an answer for you. You should be able to tell if this is the problem, though, because you'll probably see brake fluid leakage on the piston side of the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, under normal circumstances, applying pressure to the piston will not cause an over pressure within the master cylinder or reservoir. They are designed to work this way (reservoir holds fluid until it's needed, then re-accepts it upon collapse of the calipers/wheel cylinders). Also, &lt;strong&gt;unless you have added fluid to a low reservoir&lt;/strong&gt;, when you collapse the pistons, &lt;strong&gt;it will not overflow&lt;/strong&gt;. Fluid out/fluid in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T14:17:44.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8957" CreationDate="2014-03-04T20:26:20.387" Score="7" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0076KBPNI&quot;&gt;OBD-II dongle&lt;/a&gt; with the Torque Android app, which allows me to read the computer's output in real time. The app will let me drag and drop different gauges on my screen, which works out great. However, there is a gauge for vacuum pump pressure, and I don't know why the vehicle (2008 Tundra) would have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what is the function of a vacuum pump in a modern engine, or is this just a label problem with the app?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4255" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T07:38:27.337" Title="What is the point of a vacuum pump with a fuel injection engine?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8944" CreationDate="2014-03-04T21:44:36.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for opening the bleeder is two fold. If the brake hose has failed internally it can act as a check valve preventing the piston from retracting into the caliper. The second reason is that you have pushed the piston passed the area it has been operating in. There is a good chance that rust or other contaminates have been disturbed. Pushing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder will introduce these contaminates into the Anti Lock Brake  Module. The ABS module contains very small ports that can become clogged by these contaminates. By opening the bleeder you are flushing the caliper. In your case I would raise the wheels off the ground, firmly apply the brakes several times and see if the wheels spin freely without the brakes applied. Any excessive drag would indicate a sticking caliper or a defective brake hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T21:44:36.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8955" CreationDate="2014-03-04T22:18:40.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines typically have a vacuum pump to supply power to the brake boosters. If your 2008 Tundra doesn't have a diesel engine, then that gauge is likely referring to the vacuum pressure being measured in your intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T22:18:40.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8955" CreationDate="2014-03-05T07:38:27.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OBD-II protocol is standard across all engine types post-1999( or thereabout). That means Torque will allow you to read all the standard outputs, even if your car doesn't happen to have that particular device. You'll just get a gauge that doesn't actually do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I've had Torque for just over a year and it's fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T07:38:27.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-05T10:37:43.233" Score="7" ViewCount="15907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my handbrake on for about 1000 meter when driving this winter. I smelled something burning when I opened the front door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then there is often a burning smell back right wheel after driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the burning smell come from the mishandling of the handbrake? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4645" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T13:26:22.893" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T13:26:22.893" Title="I drove with the handbrake on for 1000 metres" Tags="|repair|smell|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8944" CreationDate="2014-03-05T10:55:01.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front or Rear caliper? With the rears, the pistons need to be wound in, not pressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, you'll find either two or four semicircular indents at the edges of the face of the piston. With a pair of needle-nose pliers, use these to rotate the piston clockwise while applying a gentle pressure inwards. You'll also need to make sure the handbrake is off. Once wound in, check whether there is a pin on the back of the pad that engages with these indents, and if so, make sure they are aligned by continuing to rotate the piston. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T10:55:01.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8960" CreationDate="2014-03-05T12:55:12.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, driving with the handbrake on will cause brake overheating and a burning smell.  If done for a long enough period of time it can cause damage to the seals in the caliper, which may require a caliper overhaul or replacement.  In most cases though, simply letting it cool off will restore it to normal operation.  You'll want to check it for over heating on your next trips in case it's been damaged and starts sticking on its own.  You'll also want to keep a close eye for any brake fluid leaks from the overheated area.  Also, note that if the brake pedal feels soft or spongy that you at a minimum need to bleed the brakes and may also be a symptom of a leak that needs to be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T12:55:12.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-05T15:51:48.050" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my 99 ford f350 with a 7.3 diesel is not plugged in it will not start under 50 degrees what should I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4143" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T20:03:40.790" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T12:34:39.743" Title="1999 ford f350 will not start under 50 degrees" Tags="|ford|diesel|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-05T18:44:57.293" Score="3" ViewCount="1972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chevy 2000 cavalier. I started noticing patches (pictures posted below) on the top and in front of the car. I'm not sure if it needs touch up paint or waxing (I'm a total illiterate when it comes to car maintenance). Wondering if you guys can guide me to fix it myself. &#xA;I searched through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/chevrolet/2000/cavalier/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;couple of sites&lt;/a&gt; that sell touch up paint for this car (Cayenne Red Metallic I think?) Do I need anything else to buy to apply the paint? (Like spray bottle, paint brush etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUEct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5KmC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/smYaB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1NkS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/quirn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4641" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T19:29:17.847" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T22:49:17.737" Title="Easiest and the chepest way to touch up missing paint patches on 2000 Chevy Cavalier" Tags="|maintenance|chevrolet|paint|paint-scratches|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8969" CreationDate="2014-03-06T09:58:24.350" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Daihatsu Copen has a &quot;lifetime&quot; fuel filter, inside the fuel pump housing, located in the fuel tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wary that, over time, crud will get sucked up by this filter and saturate it. What are the downsides of fitting a secondary fuel filter somewhere in the engine bay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine loss of fuel pressure, as the petrol / gas has to go through two filters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T12:57:47.527" Title="Fitting secondary fuel filter" Tags="|fuel-system|daihatsu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2014-03-06T10:42:32.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a hazard from the broken part of the spring as there may be a possibility of this dislodging from the remaining part and contacting the tyre. This could then damage the tyre wall and cause a blow out. It could also fall into the road causing a hazard (being picked up by lorry wheel and thrown into passing car. Just had spring break after 105K miles hence visit to this site. Get both springs (and if necessary struts) replaced. It costs but you will be safe and save in the long run. Many roads here in Uk have potholes after pretty wet winter which is leading to failure of those springs which already have cracks in metal after high mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4648" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T10:42:32.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8967" CreationDate="2014-03-06T11:07:11.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would worry about the main fuel filter (only slightly), but wouldn't worry too much about a secondary filter. The reason I say not to worry about a secondary is, as fuel filters become plugged, it will just stop flowing. It doesn't allow contaminants to push through, it just becomes plugged. And remember, it only filters out solids ... things which would cause problems inside of the fuel system. As long as the OEM fuel filter has been designed correctly, it should do the job just fine for you. More than likely when it gets to the point of not allowing fuel through, your pump will probably be on the way out at the same time, but that is probably many thousands of miles (or kilometers) down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T11:07:11.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9103" CreationDate="2014-03-06T13:39:36.987" Score="7" ViewCount="2545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a diesel engine in my boat, but the previous owner had somehow snapped the alternator bracket, and fitted it fixed to the boat rather than the engine. Now the alternator doesn't move when the engine rocks putting strain on the belt. The belt then stretches, so I have to adjust the alternator until the belt is tight. Repeat until belt snaps and fit another belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making an engine bracket is out of the question at the moment as it would require welding a bracket to the engine casing, and it's not practical at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about making some sort of DIY spring tensioner. The Belt runs parallel to a wooden 'wall', with a clearance of about 4 inches. I was wondering if I could attach some sort of device to the wall to intercept the belt at a right angle, (with a wheel / spring combo) and apply pressure to the belt to take the strain of the engine rocking when running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone any idea how I can do this? I'm not sure what the parts would be called and I've searched the web to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it's something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brewertensioner.com/autotensioning.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; with a custom arm and a wheel for the belt to move in but I'm not great a mechanics to be honest. The link looks like a heavy duty one from America, but I'm after something I can make up cheap from a shop in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8Knu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lqknw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XCev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1BmtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxUhI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4649" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:28:47.667" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:28:47.667" Title="DIY Alternator Belt Tensioner" Tags="|alternator|belt|diy|belt-tensioner|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11173" CreationDate="2014-03-06T16:08:18.330" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to reduce sway in my 2005 Daihatsu Copen. I have found a number of different vendors, and I have heard good things about Ultra Racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sell the following bars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Front Upper Strutbar&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ufcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front Upper Strutbar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4-Point Front H-Brace (UR-LA4-1667)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;and&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4-Point Mid Lower Bar (UR-ML4-1668)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBM7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4-Point &quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rear Lower Tiebar (UR-RL2-1669)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;and&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rear Sway Bar (UR-AR19-381)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EZbI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rear Lower Tiebar(UR-RL2-1670)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8KSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Lower Tiebar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will buy the upper strutbar, and am wondering about the other ones, unless someone can convince me not to purchase the upper strutbar!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best bar or bars to buy, for someone on a budget - that is, max of two bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T10:10:26.323" Title="Which sway bars to buy?" Tags="|daihatsu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8974" CreationDate="2014-03-06T16:25:47.257" Score="3" ViewCount="14513" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in the beginning ONE of my windshield wipers just went absolutely dead (could move it easily with my hands) and I took it to the shop and the guy removed what he called ''arms'' but when I went to another dealer to purchase the part, he told me it's called a 'bracket'. Now when I youtube ''how to change windshield bracket'' I can't find anything and if I search for ''windshield arm'' they just take the wiper themselves off and not the underlying thingy that I purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 2 metal rods which connect to the wipers, bridging the motor and the wipers I think. What is this part really called and can you link a video showing how to replace it if you can find one? (my car is Nissan Almera '98).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4638" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T17:17:35.060" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:10:39.457" Title="What is this part called?" Tags="|maintenance|nissan|replace|repair|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8971" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:01:49.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this model, but generally speaking the actual swaybars are the best bang for the buck upgrade.  They can make a dramatic difference in handling.  The strut bars/stress bars/tie bars/etc tend to only be a very minor difference (if you can notice them at all, may not even be effective without significant suspension mods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:01:49.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8972" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:09:35.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece I believe you are talking about the linkage. Many times the bushings will wear out and the linkage will pop off of the arm or motor. Here's a drawing which depicts a typical linkage connection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7H4p.gif&quot; alt=&quot;windshield wiper linkages&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I just noticed in this picture, it looks as though the &lt;strong&gt;Right Hand Link&lt;/strong&gt; attaches at the wiper arm ... it really doesn't. It fits on the ball which is on the wiper arm pivot (not named). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: And I'm asleep today. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/1pxrn-install-windshield-wiper-motor-1998-nissan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; may/may not help in your replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T17:17:00.010" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:17:00.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8963" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:51:34.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your comment, I'd suggest you take a look at the glow plugs and/or the glow plug relay. Here is a YouTube video which should explain how to check the relay: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9wxR1yToAs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9wxR1yToAs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=98+ford+f350+check+glow+plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the link&lt;/a&gt; to the Google search I used to find it, which may even provide better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:51:34.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9020" CreationDate="2014-03-06T19:39:24.990" Score="2" ViewCount="2250" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes anywhere from 20 to 60 seconds to get the status from my car (like if I want to know how charged the battery is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this is normal or something is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4650" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T00:56:14.543" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T19:39:20.457" Title="How long does OnStar RemoteLink app take to refresh from a Chevy Volt?" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T20:13:45.180" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mercedes Benz class B 180CDi from year 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a D2S High Intensity Discharge tube with a note that it should be compatible with my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller answered that I should order D1S discharge tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I cancelled the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he true that I cannot use D2S with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4651" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T00:13:55.873" Title="What xenon discharge tube goes to Mercedes B 180CDi (2009)" Tags="|mercedes-benz|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T00:11:36.103" Score="2" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting some type of P116x primary heated O2 sensor error (I forget the exact error), I replaced the primary O2 sensor on my car. (I had to make a bracket for the electrical connector because the lead on the new sensor was, for some reason, not long enough to reach the bracket holding the connector.) However, soon thereafter I was getting some new errors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;P1167: Primary Heated O2 sensor heater system malfunction&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  P1165: Primary Heated O2 sensor circuit range malfunction&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  P1149: Primary Heated O2 sensor circuit range malfunction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what the problem is, and I can't find anything beyond the nominal meaning of the error codes in the Honda Accord Haynes Repair Manual I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess it is some other part of the O2 sensor system was the issue, but I wouldn't have any idea where to begin with troubleshooting the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the actual cause of the problem here, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 2000 Honda Accord, with a F23A4 engine (2.3L SOHC 16-valve VTEC four-cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4653" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T00:55:09.300" Title="How to fix O2 sensor system?" Tags="|honda|accord|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8979" CreationDate="2014-03-07T00:55:09.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;check the part number on the new sensor. The shorter connector pigtail and new 02 sensor circuit codes appearing after the repair sound strange to me. Couldn't hurt to double check at least&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T00:55:09.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8847" CreationDate="2014-03-07T02:32:18.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok i have replaced the PCV pipe and the choking stopped. It still makes strange noises on neutral but i guess i fixed the biggest problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T02:32:18.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2014-03-07T08:36:03.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with MT_Head's and Donovan's answers, but I'd like to add that the downshift itself can be quite heavy on your synchromeshes if you don't do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you up-shift, the input shaft drops in speed by ordinary friction, and the synchromeshes don't need to work much in order to match it to the speed of the output gear. However, when you down-shift, not only does all the work of getting the input shaft revolutions up to that of the output shaft fall on the synchromeshes, but they also have to counteract that same friction which normally helps. This is why cars often develop a bad second gear over age (since the second gear is the one most commonly down-shifted into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to downshift frequently without wearing out your synchromeshes, you should learn to double-clutch correctly and as such RPM-match the transmission against the engine manually instead of letting the synchromeshes do that work for you. When you downshift, do as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disengage the clutch once and let the transmission into neutral,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage the clutch again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rev up the engine to the approximate revolutions you'll need on the new, lower gear; or perhaps a little higher to give yourself headroom for the next step. (This is preferably overlapped with steps 1 and 2.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disengage the clutch once again (hence &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt; clutching) and shift into the lower gear. If you've RPM-matched correctly, you'll feel the gear just falling effortlessly into place, rather than needing time to rev up the input shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage again and continue driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not used to driving like this, it may sound a bit burdensome, but it doesn't take a vast lot of training to get used to it, and once you do, you'll find that you can actually downshift faster than without anyway, since this method of downshift synchronization is usually faster than what most synchromeshes are capable of. And it really does make your transmission age a lot better, especially if you downshift a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastEditorUserId="4642" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T04:41:44.807" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T04:41:44.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2014-03-07T12:01:36.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That kind of leak can be quickly fixed with gasket silicone (which is VERY cheap and great stuff, I use it everywhere because its easy to use, tolerates high temperatures and seals oil better than the regular gaskets! You can use it together with the regular gaskets to get a seal that last for life! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in your case it would be a temporary fix, if you just put the silicone on top of the leak (after of course cleaning the surrounding area thoroughly with e.g alcohol), but its better to have a temporary fix than nothing. Just make sure you use enough silicone and that the silicone sticks to the engine all around the leaking area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize your question was posted a year ago, however for future problems with leaks and bad seals, this should help a lot both you and others viewing this thread as its a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T12:01:36.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8987" CreationDate="2014-03-07T14:27:30.050" Score="3" ViewCount="7228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a series of what I will call electrical problems with my Mazda 3.  I'm not sure if they are interrelated and wanted to get some advice or ideas from you guys.  Apologies in advance for the novel..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, the reception on my radio has degraded.  First, it was a little static on the AM channels but recently it is both AM and FM and the static / interference has jumped significantly, even on local channels that should be crystal clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, my battery died.  It was WELL over 4 years old and probably in need of replacement, but the next two items happened after replacement and I'm curious if there is a relationship:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the cigarette lighter port on in my center console that I use to plug in an iPhone charger has stopped working.  I checked the charger itself on another port and it still works fine.  I had always had the problem of that port picking up engine noise, meaning if I was charging my iPhone with it and also playing music out of the iPhone, I would hear engine noise as well as the music.  This was a manageable problem, but now the port just doesn't work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, and finally, I have managed to lose both of my keyless entry clickers so I use my key to get in the car at all times.  On several occasions now (and more so lately) I have run into situations where I unlock the drivers door, open the door, unlock all the doors and then, when another door is opened (or even the trunk) the car alarm goes off, even though all the doors were unlocked.  I have to run over to the drivers side door and re-unlock the door with my key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, none of these issues are that big of a deal but I am concerned that they are all somehow related.  I'm also concerned that I will take the car to a mechanic or dealership without getting some advice on possible issues first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I REALLY appreciate any help in advance that you guys as the experts can offer me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much!&#xA;Michael&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4655" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T18:34:31.183" Title="Series of troubling electrical problems in my '07 Mazda 3. Any ideas?" Tags="|electrical|mazda|audio|alarm|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8977" CreationDate="2014-03-07T15:13:35.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what you can do ... The model of the headlight might be on the discharge tube itself. I had the problem with my vehicle where I ordered what I thought were the right replacement bulbs for the fog lamps (H7) and found them to be the wrong ones. I went and bought another set (H11) and they were wrong as well. I took the lamp out and discovered they were actually H8 bulbs as it was printed right on the bulb base. Anyway, it could be printed on yours as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing (which might actually be the first place to look) is the owners manual. They might have the model listed there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking online at the difference between the two, they are physically different. The D1S has a square metallic base with the connection going out the side of it. The D2S has a round base with the connection at the end (bottom). Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZqUP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;D1S&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTtDf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;D2S&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the looks of things, you want the D2S&lt;/strong&gt;, but make sure before you buy. Remember, you want to replace these in pairs so the color will be the same. Also, when replacing, wear clean gloves (like nitrile or cotton if you can find them). If you get oil from you fingers on the bulb (or any other contaminant, you can kiss those bulbs goodbye. Their life expectancy will be GREATLY diminished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T15:13:35.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T16:07:39.877" Score="2" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual 2000 Ford Focus, with only 64k miles on the clock. This question is more general than a specific car and year, I am really asking about &gt; 10 years, with sub 100k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I change the oil every 6 months or 3k miles - whichever comes first (usually the 6 months). The other fluids are changed every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this method a waste of money, as the car has such low milage? What are the best practices for an older car, with low milage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:06:52.447" Title="Service intervals for old, low mileage car" Tags="|service|servicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8984" CreationDate="2014-03-07T18:04:24.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the most common electrical problem, especially in cases like this where &quot;mysterious&quot; things happen, is a bad ground. They're usually very hard to find but very easy to fix once found. Basically you want to use a multimeter to measure the connection between the negative battery terminal and different places on your car that should be grounded, like the frame, or the cigarette lighter, or whatever. The setting where it beeps if the two probes are connected is the best for this, you don't even have to look at the display. Once you find a bad connection you trace it back to the battery, measuring along the way, until you get a good connection again, and at that point you know if it's a bad wire, rusted connection, loose screw, etc. It's often hard to understand exactly how a bad ground generates all the problems it does, but the cig lighter is straightforward and also the noise in the radio could be from the battery not connecting properly to the system (the battery acts as a large capacitor and smooths out electrical noise from the engine, so if the connection to it is not very good, it will do a bad job at that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing I can think of is that your alternator is busted. In particular if one of the diodes in it is toast, the alternator will still put out current, but it will be less than usual (would account for dead battery, cig lighter port not working) and also lots of spurious electrical noise. This is easier to check but harder to fix. Again, the test involves a multimeter. There are detailed instructions online, but the main points are that you want to be getting around 14V DC and 0V AC on your battery with your car running. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T18:04:24.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T21:40:09.980" Score="8" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, OBD II does not directly tell if a car is in forward or reverse gear. I wonder what the best way to derive such information from OBD data if there is any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the discussion in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dfrobot.com/forum/index.php?topic=875.0&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, specifically I would like to know if &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot;&gt;PID62&lt;/a&gt; says forward when it is positive and reverse when it is negative. If not, is there any other other PID can reveal forward/reverse information with a foolproof mapping logic. If any, please specify the PID and the mapping logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4658" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T19:01:24.550" Title="Does OBD II explicitly or implicitly include forward/reverse information?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T23:02:36.810" Score="3" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding along and my 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic stopped accelerating. I was pressing the gas but it wouldn't go any faster. I coasted off the highway and turned it off, then I started it back up and shut it off as I called for assistance. When I tried to start it back again it would not crank that time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days before I could pull up to a stop sign or red light and it would make this loud rattling noise but when I take off it would stop. I was told to replace my harmonic balancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4659" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T09:26:34.063" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T09:26:34.063" Title="2004 Chevy Malibu Classic Acceleration &amp; starting problems" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|starting|malibu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-07-30T19:55:20.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8992" CreationDate="2014-03-07T23:41:33.067" Score="6" ViewCount="10670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I test drove a 2002 BMW 325xi with 80,000 miles on it the other day and while it didn't have any major issues cosmetically or mechanically from what I could see, there was something strange about the clutch: it engaged uncomfortably high. In addition, when it was completely depressed (disengaged) in any gear, I could hear a slight whining noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to manual cars — the first and only one I've driven was a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta for the last year — so I don't know if this is normal. Could the clutch be going out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4660" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:33:56.417" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T23:48:42.363" Title="Car I test drove had a high clutch engagement point; why?" Tags="|clutch|bmw|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8990" CreationDate="2014-03-08T00:37:39.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say for sure without being there, but it sure sounds like something isn't right with the clutch, especially the whining noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend having a mechanic you trust give it a pre-sale inspection before considering handing over your hard-earned money for this BMW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T00:37:39.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8990" CreationDate="2014-03-08T00:39:27.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cars are different, especially when it comes to clutches. Some have, as you say, a high engagement point on the clutch, where you can almost let the clutch out all of the way before it starts to engage. Others do it much lower in the clutch pedal arch (further pushed towards the firewall). It's just something you have to get used to. I cannot tell you for sure there was anything wrong with this clutch you were driving, but you never know. The big thing you need to look for is whether there was clutch slippage. This will occur under load, where you have let the clutch pedal out all the way and you get on the gas. The RPMs should slowly raise along with vehicle speed ... very linear. If the RPMs jump up, there is an issue and the clutch is probably on it's way out. As for this car you drove, you can do three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive another BMW of about the same year, engine, and transmission. This will tell you if what you are feeling is unusual or normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the car you are test driving to a &lt;em&gt;trusted&lt;/em&gt; mechanic. Trusted means someone you know. Most dealerships should not have an issue with this, and if they do, walk away from the deal (because they are hiding something).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive other cars with manual transmissions to see the difference of which I'm talking about.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, after some hard driving, if you smell a lot of something burnt, the clutch is probably going out. A little bit of smell would not be unheard of, but nothing in the stench realm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T00:39:27.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9017" CreationDate="2014-03-08T10:57:38.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for the location of the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it might not have one, and only the Model E ZZR's have one, because there seems to be no explicit mention of it or diagram in the Haynes Manual. It seems to me that it would be somewhere between the fuel tank and the carburettor, but I can't find it. A Model E also has a fuel pump, which the Model D does not, so could it be something to do with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it does seem to have one, because you can buy them, such as here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patternparts.net/p-Kawasaki_ZZR_600_Fuel_Filter_93_05-33376.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.patternparts.net/p-Kawasaki_ZZR_600_Fuel_Filter_93_05-33376.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T03:54:10.273" Title="Kawasaki ZZR600 Model D3 - where is the fuel filter?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|kawasaki|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T13:10:21.623" Score="3" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 F150 FX4 has a vibration in the front end. I feel it in the accelerator pedal.  When I am driving strait or turning left it is there but to the left it stops. I have changed my cv’s and locking hubs along with the locking hub sensor. Plus the brake rotors and  had the tires Balanced and rotated no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4662" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T15:42:24.347" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T08:13:44.837" Title="My 2004 F150 FX4 has a vibration in the front end" Tags="|ford|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8997" CreationDate="2014-03-08T17:10:59.647" Score="6" ViewCount="31018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of how important they are, but have been coming up empty in my searches to determine if they're worn to the point of needing replacement.  The service manual just says to inspect and replace as necessary (as a set).  I don't see anything I can measure to determine if there is any wear?  Obviously there's a point somewhere in between waiting for it to fail and replacing it every time I ride...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T21:31:16.287" LastActivityDate="2023-06-30T14:18:38.230" Title="1994 Suzuki GSX600FR Katana - How do I know if motorcycle chain &amp; sprocket need replacement?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|chain|katana|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8996" CreationDate="2014-03-08T22:30:16.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this advice from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all. Another wear indication is tight links or kinks in the chain. This is caused by a lack of lube that has caused links stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common way to know if your chain needs to be replaced comes from measuring your slack. As a chain wears, grooves are cut into the pins which gives the illusion of chain-stretch. No chain wears perfectly even so every chain will develop a variance in the chain slack measurement. If the variance between the tight spots and loose spots of the chain become too great, you'll want to replace the chain. If the chain is not replaced at this point, the variances in slack will put a lot of stress on the sprockets. Replace the chain early and most times you can run two chains to one set of sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T22:30:16.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9000" CreationDate="2014-03-09T12:01:57.110" Score="2" ViewCount="5418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of starting of converting an old car to an electric car.&#xA;I have a question, but google won't answer me my very long not very well explained question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this scenario. I would take a small 2 HP electric motor that can run up to 5000 RPM, say I put a gear for reducing revolutions (e.g. 6:1 reduction gear).&#xA;So the question would be, is there any formula that would give me the output HP at the output of the gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you understood my not very well put question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4666" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:17:38.823" Title="Formula for calculating output power after putting a rpm reduction gear" Tags="|engine|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8999" CreationDate="2014-03-09T15:32:40.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Yes.  The horsepower shouldn't change but the torque should go up by a factor of 6.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to remember is that what you usually want is actually the torque of your motor.  That's what actually does the useful work for you.  In this case, though, you've been handed a horsepower number at a particular RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can get the equivalent torque at that RPM using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/7940/57&quot;&gt;standard equation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;horsepower = (torque * rpm) / 5252&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your cited horsepower is 2 HP at 5000 RPM, we expect that the torque output is 2.1 foot-pounds (yeah, ick, English measurements - blame the British empire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, we can introduce the reduction gear.  The thing to remember is that we don't expect the output gear to affect the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_%28physics%29#Mechanical_power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;power of the motor&lt;/a&gt; at all.  It will continue putting out its output torque at its previous angular velocity.  The reduction gearing will then trade angular velocity for more torque at a ratio of six to one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply your reduction gear, you'll change the &lt;code&gt;rpm&lt;/code&gt; in the equation.  Plugging in 2 HP and 833 RPM (at a 6:1 reduction), we expect to see a torque of about 10.5 foot-pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of all this, you'll have a system with much more pulling power and a much lower top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T15:32:40.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T17:35:33.953" Score="6" ViewCount="31202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start replacing the head gaskets on a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback according to the procedures described here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/&quot;&gt;http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yakX-GAV9uE&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yakX-GAV9uE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I'm wondering if I should buy some additional tools before I get started. My existing toolbox is pretty much just wrenches (including torque wrench), breaker bars, screwdrivers, a cheap jack, and various specialty tools not related to this job. I think at the very least I need one or more good jack stands, one to tilt the engine to get at the heads on each side, and possibly also a couple to raise the vehicle. Is there anything else I should think about getting for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T02:56:23.927" Title="Tools needed for smooth Subaru head gasket job" Tags="|subaru|tools|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2014-03-09T18:23:34.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The springs seem to lose their springiness.  This means the valves (the bits in your fingers in picture 2) do not return to seal off the injectors quickly enough, so too much fuel enters the cylinder.  The engine detects a mixture problem and tries to compensate, but (unsurprisingly) can't get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other part that wears out is the very small o-ring that sits between the spring and the outer cylinder.  It normally stops the valve from banging into the outer cylinder when it is opened.  As the rubber ages, the valves start to &quot;clatter&quot; as they hit the cylinder.  I haven't had this problem, but I understand it can also cause mixture problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4668" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T18:23:34.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12707" CreationDate="2014-03-09T20:35:55.190" Score="4" ViewCount="22220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently we started having problems turning my &lt;strong&gt;2000 Sienna&lt;/strong&gt;'s key in the switch past the OFF position. I have to wiggle the wheel for some time and play with the key, until it &quot;catches&quot; the right position to turn to ACC position. Looking for a solution, I found a video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMR-a2n05gc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt; describing how to replace the switch tumbler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After goofing around for some hour or so, trying to open the dash panels, I was finally able to extract the tumbler out of the switch assembly. I also found a non-OEM part on eBay for $35. Then, I called the local dealer to see if they have it in stock, and to my surprise, after getting the VIN, he quoted ~$240 for an original part. When I told him I found it online for $35, he said that it is b/c my key has the immobilizer chip in it, and he guarantees that the replacement part will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further investigating, I found out that the chip (transponder) is embedded in the key, but the antenna is in the ring &lt;em&gt;around&lt;/em&gt; the cylinder, and not in the part I took out. So, I now know that there are unchipped keys, which are slim, and chipped ones which are &quot;fat&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between the &lt;strong&gt;tumbler&lt;/strong&gt; parts of a chipped and unchipped switches? Can it be safely interchanged inside the switch assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One reference demonstrated how to ignite the car using an unchipped key, while holding an original chipped key just next to the antenna ring (the ring around the keyhole). Does the engine continue working even long after the chipped key removed away from the switch, or is there some repeated ID conformation every couple of minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the orientation of the transponder (the chip) with respect to the antenna critical for successful communications?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1:&lt;/strong&gt; It happens that when inserted in place, the rear side of the tumbler rotates a small flat piece that is connected to the actual electrical switch. When removed the housing looks like a big empty cylinder with this metal piece sticking up from its far end (think about an 12V accessory (cigarette lighter) socket with a metal blade popping up inside, where the positive 12V contact is placed normally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to remove the tumbler, one has to rotate the key to the ACC position. So, when removed, the flat piece is slightly rotated inside that hollow cylinder. Now, I was able to use pliers to grab and rotate that piece, as if it was the tumbler - and so turn the car on, while holding my transponder key near the removed antenna ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car does turn on and remains on even while the key was removed from the antenna. It kept running until I used the pliers again to rotate the piece back to ACC mode. So, I guess this answers my questions #2 and #3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about leaving the switch like this and using the pliers method until the replacement tumbler is shipped, to avoid getting stuck with an dis-functioning key switch (which will later prevent me from extracting the tumbler again). Unfortunately, once in ACC, the pliers cannot rotate the metal piece back to OFF position, so the car remains half operational all the time. Eventually, I placed the part back in place and turned off all systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="3328" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T01:17:34.080" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T03:43:17.047" Title="Replacing the ignition switch tumbler (cylinder)" Tags="|sienna|ignition-key|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8999" CreationDate="2014-03-09T23:24:32.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob's answer explains it well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to add that a 2hp motor will be very slow on anything heavier than a bicycle. And you'll be lucky to get even 25mph (on a flat road without a tailwind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T23:24:32.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T00:04:44.753" Score="3" ViewCount="30933" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hit a wall with my door handle. What's the best way to remove paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byVLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T01:18:15.460" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T06:48:42.613" Title="Hit a wall with my car how to remove paint?" Tags="|paint|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9005" CreationDate="2014-03-10T00:13:14.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an ideal situation for some &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8766/57&quot;&gt;cleaner wax&lt;/a&gt;.  It will have a mild polish to lift the extra paint and wax to reduce the impact of the mark on your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at that scuff and it really looks like you just barely kissed whatever left the white mark.  If you wash the handle really well, you'll be surprised how well a little cleaner wax will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, though, any sort of polishing requires patience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T00:13:14.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9008" CreationDate="2014-03-10T00:51:53.150" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently filled up my windshield washer fluid and was wondering two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I operate my rear wiper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a separate reservoir for fluid for the washer fluid for the rear windows or does it use the same one as the front window?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4669" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T01:16:44.817" Title="2005 Suzuki Reno S wipers and fluid" Tags="|suzuki|windshield-wipers|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9007" CreationDate="2014-03-10T01:16:44.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear washer runs off the same bottle as the front. There are two dedicated washer motors which force fluid each way. If you are experiencing problems with the rear not washing, there is a check valve at the reservoir where the rear line attaches to it (off the bottom of the tank). This valve sometimes gets clogged and does not allow fluid to go through. Also, ensure you are using de-icing agent if in cold weather area to prevent the lines from freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for operation of the pump, you would pull the wiper controls to bring fluid to the windshield and push it away from you to operate the washer on the rear. The wiper will work continuously while you push on the control, then for a period of time after you let off of the control (though the washer will quit spewing). Hope this answers your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T01:16:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9001" CreationDate="2014-03-10T09:35:56.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you've got everything you'll need. A head gasket replacement isn't a job that requires lots of specialist equipment. It's mainly a set of wrenches (including a torque wrench) and something to scrape the old gasket off. But it's a long and tedious job. And I can't stress that last bit enough, especially if it's the first time you do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the job as smooth as possible, I would suggest taking the engine out of the car completely so that you have lots of elbow room. but that's a big job in itself. For that you'll need a winch and a crane (or whatever the thing is called in English).  I remember getting extremely annoyed at the fact that I couldn't adjust the second waste-gate actuator nut on my turbo because there is no angle at which you could get at it even with the shortest #9 wrench on the market. Instead of it being a 2 minute job, I spent a good hour on it and had to cut a wrench in two in the process. The alternative was to remove the entire exhaust manifold heat shield (to get to one tiny little nut!).  It's unexpected difficulties like that that trip you up. But if the guy in the video can do it, so can you. Just take whatever number of hours you think it'll take and multiply by 2.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And next time buy a car with all the cylinders in one straight line. It cuts the time in half;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And take 2 minutes to block each and every hose you removed. If you drop something into e.g. the pipe going to the intercooler, you're going to spend hours trying to get it out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T09:35:56.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2014-03-10T13:01:38.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with one of those cheap mp3-FM transmitters. The thing is that some lighter sockets aren't deep enough to accept the adapter, so the wings never go deep enough to click into the recesses of the socket. The best thing to do would be to find an adapter that plugs into the socket and then plug your USB adapter into that. Some hardware stores sell an adapter that turns one socket into two. Or you could try some DIY-fu and bend the wings forward and back to move the bulge closer to the front. Just be VERY careful not to snap them off. That metal is quite brittle. See the blue line I &quot;Photoshopped&quot; in ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf7fA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T13:01:38.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9013" CreationDate="2014-03-10T19:29:38.800" Score="5" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking under the hood, trying to learn what's what, and I was wondering what this was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circled part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogLu6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4673" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T19:49:00.333" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T22:53:08.820" Title="What part is this on my Honda Accord 1996?" Tags="|honda|accord|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9012" CreationDate="2014-03-10T19:43:41.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3774" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T19:43:41.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9012" CreationDate="2014-03-10T22:53:08.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Distributor cap, DO NOT switch the cables around&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4675" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T22:53:08.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T23:55:59.627" Score="3" ViewCount="2002" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2005 BMW 525i E60 with about 180,000km on the clock. It has been well looked after and serviced. I don't get dealer services, but go to a mechanic who has always been good and uses the same oils and genuine parts that BMW use. He used to be a BMW tech for about 25 years before going out on his own and is considerably cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we proceed, I apologise for the long story and hope you can bear with me. Make yourself a tea or coffee before you read this. I greatly appreciate any help anyone has to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The story begins about 2 weeks ago when I took my car to the mechanic for a service. I was experiencing issues where the car was sluggy and I had an oil leak, simple enough I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic called me and said they discovered a couple of inches of the fuel line beneath the car had been crushed (the hose is metal bent at weird angles and whatnot) and brake lines had also been squashed basically flat. The lines were squashed by a loose chunk of concrete coming off of a driveway. They called BMW and they were quoted $1300 AUD and a 3 week wait as the lines had to come from Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They phoned around and were able to find second hand lines for about $400. They fitted the new lines and discovered the source of the leak was actually the oil filter, at first they thought the mount was cracked, but the car just needed a new oil filter. They also discovered a faulty part (a thermostat they had only replaced not even a year ago) still under warranty that they replaced. An engine mount near the alternator was also replaced, I recall they mentioned having to remove the alternator and whatnot to get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After spending $2200 AUD on the repairs (a little more than I was expecting), I picked the car up and for a day it was perfect. It had a new-found sense of performance, was smoother than ever. Then the second day rolled around and my fiance calls me to tell me the car was blowing white smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She picked me up and the car would pour out copious amounts of white smoke when taking off from lights, going up hills, etc. It wasn't a small amount either, it was literally clouds. It didn't have a sweet smell, more of a fume smell. The car was also idling rough and driving pretty rough as well, wasn't overly lacking power though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what you are thinking and yes, it was my first thought too: the head gasket is blown and coolant and oil were mixing together. I had a sinking feeling in my stomach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the car had cooled down, I checked the oil and coolant. The oil was pretty much empty, it was below the minimum mark and the coolant was also a quarter down. Looking at the mechanic invoice it said they used about 6 litres of synthetic oil, where did it go I wondered. I checked the coolant and it was clean, I checked the oil and it was clean. I've seen what a blown head gasket looks like this wasn't looking the case. The oil had vanished, and some of the coolant as well, but it didn't appear as though the two were mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time the car was started from a stationery position, it would blow lots of white smoke as it did when the car was being driven. Moisture getting into the engine somewhere seemed to be the most likely cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it was a late Friday evening and the mechanic workshop wasn't open until Monday, I decided to carefully fill the oil and coolant back up, I had some demineralised water and I also had some synthetic motor oil on hand. I filled the oil to just a little below the minimum mark and the coolant back to the full mark. I would call the mechanic on Monday and do some observational testing over the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I topped up both fluids, I started the car and no white smoke. I let it run for about 15 minutes. I turned it off, checked fluids and they were still full. The oil still appeared to be clean. I drove the car around the block and the white smoke was still gone. This was a good sign, but also a sign perhaps they forgot to top up the oil they charged me for, had it done damage I wondered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next morning I started the car and a puff of white smoke emerged and then cleared. Driving it however seemed to pose no problem, the white smoke would only appear after the car had been turned off and sitting for quite a while and first started. I checked the fluids and the oil was fine, the coolant had gone down a really tiny bit. Because I always park my car on a drip tray I noticed there was a water like oil substance on the tray, it wasn't a large amount, but enough to make me take notice. The oil had not gone down which made it all the more weird, where was the oil like colour and substance coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunday rolled around the subsequently the same thing. No oil loss, coolant had gone down a bit more, white smoke on initial start after sitting and then cleared. I was hopeful when I took it to the mechanic on Monday it would be resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the mechanic finally, I told them how the oil was empty and I topped it up, I also explained the coolant loss and they got me to start the car. Because the cloud of white smoke only happens on start, they couldn't see it. They said they could see a tiny bit of exhaust smoke and then subsequently tried telling me because of the age of the car (it's a 2005) that it was most likely the valve stem seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then sold me a bottle of what looked like water which they poured into the oil for softening up the valve stem seals and said to keep an eye on it. They said if I notice any troubles, to bring it back. I stupidly went along with it even after explaining the oil loss and coolant loss. They offered no possible explanation as to why the oil was empty, I assumed it wasn't topped up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these issues are new ones I didn't have before I took the car to them, why would the valve stem seals all of a sudden cause me an issue after coincidentally getting it looked over and work done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of days had passed and the white smoke issue had temporarily disappeared and I thought, oh, maybe they were right. Then I noticed the smoke had returned again on start, I checked the fluids again and the oil was clean and fine. There were no signs of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I however had noticed the coolant had dropped to about the half way mark now and the watery like oil was still leaking onto the drip tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called them up and they said to bring it back down, I was determined to get them to actually look at the car this time. It was raining and I parked in the car park. The mechanic dude came out and I explained the situation. He offered no possible explanation for the coolant loss. It was also coincidentally raining and has been for the past few days. He said the water from the rain would have washed whatever was leaking from underneath and to bring it back when it's not raining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on here? What are my rights? I feel so helpless and trapped at the moment. I feel as though they're trying to avoid looking at the car properly maybe because they know they're responsible and scared maybe they blew the head gasket which is an expensive job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I say to them next time I see them to make sure it gets fixed and looked at without incurring cost upon myself? I know it's hard, but what are some potential issues that could be responsible for my symptoms? Coolant loss, not going into the oil and oil not going down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T01:19:41.187" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T15:42:46.547" Title="Mechanic Troubles And A Small Watery Oil Leak" Tags="|oil|bmw|coolant|exhaust|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8996" CreationDate="2014-03-11T01:21:38.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule-of-thumb I was taught is to pull the chain away from the back of the sprocket. If the chain pulls away by more than half a roller it's time to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T01:21:38.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8993" CreationDate="2014-03-11T01:31:06.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with your model, but sometimes they are located on the petcock, inside the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I cannot find old diagrams, but at least ZZR600's some years younger than yours seem to have had those. Oldest diagram I could find at the moment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motosport.com/SE/motorcycle/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2003/ZZR600/FUEL-TANK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motosport.com/SE/motorcycle/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2003/ZZR600/FUEL-TANK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastEditorUserId="4676" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T01:39:21.510" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T01:39:21.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9026" CreationDate="2014-03-12T00:56:00.387" Score="2" ViewCount="12509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an '05 Mazda 3 SP 2.3 and my question is how do I replace my alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My situation is pretty much the exact same as described on this site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=56092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=56092&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="1267" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T14:26:57.967" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T18:22:51.380" Title="How to replace an alternator?" Tags="|mazda|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8976" CreationDate="2014-03-12T03:08:14.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is normal. Not to get into details but there is no direct link between your OnStar RemoteLink app and your car. Here is how it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your applications calls a server at GM and places a request ( for example check battery status ).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The server makes a series of queries in order to make to establish connection with a car. It could be sending sms or other ways ( there are two other way - if I remember correctly, just can't recall right now).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once connection is established between a car and a GM server, it will execute desired command - check battery status as well as receive few more pieces of info.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And at last, a GM server will return requested information to your app.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the best of my knowledge, it takes a bit of time to do step 2 because it is a bit tricky to establish connection with a car that is not working. Remember your car doesn't stay connected to OnStar server all the time because it will drain battery and it will cost GM a bit of money to keep connection alive - GM uses cellular providers (AT&amp;amp;T and such) and they charge an arm &amp;amp; a leg for internet connection such as 3G and LTE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, 20-60 seconds to get an update from a car is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T03:08:14.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9024" CreationDate="2014-03-12T05:32:53.430" Score="2" ViewCount="3408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic 2003 gx 1.7 liter vTec stick shift 4 cylinder. Just today I had to put oil in my car. Drove for about 5 minutes got to a light and when I shifted into first gear a white cloud of smoke came out the tailpipe, stopped and let it cool for about 3 hours (had to run an errand) turned the car back on and bum again the white cloud. When driving it, the car doesn't accelerate as it did before putting the oil. Any help what can it be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4679" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T10:19:40.347" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T18:20:56.687" Title="2003 Honda Civic 1.7 vTec - White Smoke from the tailpipe" Tags="|engine|honda|oil|exhaust|vtec|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9023" CreationDate="2014-03-12T10:42:32.913" Score="15" ViewCount="165948" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual to my VW Golf Mk7 states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With the engine at operating temperature&lt;/strong&gt;, park the vehicle on a level surface to ensure that the engine oil reading is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it important for the engine to be at operating temperature when checking oil level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T15:26:50.403" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T15:26:50.403" Title="Why check oil when engine is at operating temperature?" Tags="|oil|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9022" CreationDate="2014-03-12T11:33:57.583" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: This procedure checks the oil &quot;reserve&quot; remaining in the pan after all moving parts are lubricated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure is purely vehicle dependent.  For example, on my car, I'm supposed to check the oil when the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In asking you to check when the engine is hot, the oil will not be pooled in the oil pan.  Instead, it will have been fully circulated to all the moving parts that badly need that oil to function.  As a result, you'll be checking the oil reserve that remains in the pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this oil isn't extra.  Among its many functions, oil is also carrying some of the heat load of the engine.  All those hot moving parts get the oil in contact up to painful temperatures.  An &quot;excess&quot; allows the oil to absorb more heat without burning completely away.  The oil in my car leaves the block, passes through an oil cooler and then to the oil pan before circulating back into the fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I can also check the oil in my car when hot by using different marks on the dipstick.  I prefer the cold procedure so I can confirm total oil.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T11:33:57.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9021" CreationDate="2014-03-12T11:43:46.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the white smoke smell sweet like antifreeze?  The loss of power plus the white smoke points directly at a bad head gasket.  They don't last forever and it sounds like yours just got used up (coincidentally right around the time that you changed the oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head gaskets on those VTECs can be replaced in your garage.  However, I wouldn't recommend the job to a novice.  The steps aren't technically hard but it is critical that they be done correctly (e.g., setting the engine to top-dead-center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't done this sort of work before, I'd recommend taking it to a shop that you trust.  You'll pay far more for the labor than the parts (gaskets are pretty cheap) but you won't break your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T11:43:46.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9019" CreationDate="2014-03-12T18:22:51.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I pulled from an online source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove Alternator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the negative battery cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the under cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the drive belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the alternator duct and heat insulator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the alternator electrical connections. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the bolts A, B and C. Refer to the illustration for bolt location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install Alternator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the alternator, tighten bolt A temporarily, then tighten the&#xA;bolts in the following order; B, A and C to 29-41 ft. lbs. (40-55&#xA;Nm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the alternator electrical connections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the heat insulator and tighten the bolt to 18-47 inch lbs.&#xA;(2-5 Nm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the alternator duct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the under cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the drive belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the negative battery cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulled from Autozone.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXUtU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Mazda3 Alternator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T18:22:51.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2014-03-12T21:19:51.810" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quieter operation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weaker than Chains, higher chance of breakage/damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made of elastomeric material which could degrade if comes into contact with petroleum products or other chemicals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chosen by car manufacturers due to economical reasons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn/Maintenance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace @ every ~40k miles or so (very rough estimate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belts stretch and loosen and cause whining noise before breakage (especially when the car is cold). This is an indicator of a failing belt, pulleys, &amp;amp; tensioners and will let you know that you need to service your belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to replace. Less time/labor charges. Tends to be less difficult. Usually manufacturers will design cars (with timing belts) to be able to service and replace the belts easily because belts inherently fail more easily and more often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much Stronger, Less chance of breakage/damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chains are somewhat &lt;em&gt;known&lt;/em&gt; to be able to last the entire life of the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn/Maintenance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace when rebuilding or &gt;100k miles (very rough estimate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder to tell when the chain needs to be replaced. Will tend to start stretching, but unless severely stretched/damaged, the chain should not cause severe issues with the timing because the teeth will still keep the chain in the right &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; location. A worn chain could start rattling. A severely stretched chain could jump teeth and you will have timing issues at that point and if you have a interference type engine, you risk damaging or breaking your valves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires replacing/servicing the chain tensioner &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder to replace. More time/labor charges. Tends to be more difficult. Chains aren't expected to break or require as much servicing, so manufacturers tend to not put as much priority on making it easy to access/service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive parts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theres also Direct Drive Gear.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the end:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The chain is a stronger, longer lasting product, that is harder to diagnose and harder to replace. When and if it breaks, it will break &lt;em&gt;catastrophically&lt;/em&gt; without as much warning. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;The belt is more regularly replaced and is more telling when it is near its end of life. It is usually easier/faster to replace.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Balance between Durability / Maintenance / Costs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T18:31:06.457" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:31:06.457" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-12T23:54:48.803" Score="1" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire with the 2.2L engine. When I accelerate slowly the engine seems to run fine. However, if I accelerate quickly the engine seems to hesitate. I have already replaced the MAP sensor and the air intake/charge temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I should try to resolve this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4683" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T00:56:22.373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T01:02:45.370" Title="Engine hesitates when accelerating - 1996 Sunfire" Tags="|engine|electrical|pontiac|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T01:49:38.297" Score="1" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a engine run ssmoothly with a broke in half spark plug(where the porcelain meets the metal)no vibrations &amp;amp; would the plug wire boot hold the 2 pieces together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4684" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T10:01:08.547" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T10:09:59.527" Title="spark plug separated @ porcelien &amp; metal" Tags="|sparkplugs|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9042" CreationDate="2014-03-13T05:25:49.100" Score="1" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was totaled after the accident and I salvaged it from the insurance company.  I didn't realize I had to pay more fees to the California Department of Motor Vehicles and do some extra things.  Does anyone know if the DMV requires a &quot;Brake and Light Certificate&quot; in order to re-register a salvaged vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T10:10:55.783" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T01:46:12.587" Title="Does Registering a Salvaged Car in California Require a &quot;Brake and Light Certificate&quot;?" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T06:13:13.517" Score="0" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pulsar 150CC.. Rear shockers. Bajaj showroom Mechanic suggests to replace them but other mechanic suggests that they can be repaired. it ran around 54K. I am confused now. Please suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4685" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T10:16:49.747" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T10:16:49.747" Title="I feel my shock absorbers are no more working. Need to know if I need to replace them or are there any recommendations to ge them properly repaired?" Tags="|suspension|bajaj|pulsar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9031" CreationDate="2014-03-13T08:43:07.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can repair them, but I doubt it will cost much less than replacing them on your bike. If it were a BMW with big, expensive shocks then maybe it is a good option, but for such a small bike you'll probably pay less for a new shock absorber than for the labour to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T08:43:07.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9029" CreationDate="2014-03-13T10:09:59.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sparkplug &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work properly for as long as it will with a split porcelain. The problems that will arise is that there is now a place for electrical leakage (where electricity can find a way to ground easier). It will not take long for electricity to find it's way through it and to the ground. Save yourself some headache and just replace the sparkplug, even if it's a new one. The boot may or may not hold it together, but that is not it's purpose. The boot is there to protect the connection of the conductor to the sparkplug and prevent a way to ground for it. Once enough pressure gets put upon the porcelain part of the spark plug, it will crack further and ultimately fall apart. If you need the vehicle to run you down to the parts store and back to get the sparkplug replacement, you might be fine, but I wouldn't trust it even that far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T10:09:59.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T12:39:26.183" Score="6" ViewCount="24941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 04 Corolla that travels &amp;lt; 1 mile twice a day. &lt;strong&gt;Is this bad for the car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-320866.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;, I get a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/driving-short-distance-morning-does-hurt-your-engine-exhaust-72845.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mixed answers&lt;/a&gt;, so I'm hoping for definitive answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In freezing temperatures, I let the car warm up until the temperature gauge moves (&lt;strong&gt;is this important?&lt;/strong&gt;). Regardless, I drive gently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advice I've read is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&amp;amp;story=car-talk-tips&amp;amp;subject=more&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;change the oil more frequently&lt;/a&gt;, is this sound advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4688" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T23:06:33.373" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:02:55.040" Title="Does only traveling short distances hurt my car?" Tags="|maintenance|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9035" CreationDate="2014-03-13T12:49:14.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is true. One of the things which happens when you drive your car, is it allows your car to completely warm up, which evaporates any water which may be in the oil. Small amounts of water in the oil can contribute to corrosion in your crank case and everything contained there-in. Changing your oil will help with this. Driving your vehicle on a 10-20 mile jaunt once a week will alleviate this problem. Driving it this way will also ensure all of your seals are properly lubed as well. Without it, they can dry up and might start leaking. There are some other factors to consider as well, such as having your gas go bad for sitting too long. Gas has the tendency to collect water over time and go bad (without treatment, usually is only good for 1-2 months maximum). To avoid this, just don't leave much gas in the tank, and make the trip to the gas station on a weekly/bi-weekly basis to ensure fresh gas is in your tank (or use a gas stabilizer such as Stabil). Running with less gas in the tank will also help with fuel mileage, as you will be carrying less weight in the vehicle (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE -&lt;/strong&gt; I know someone is going to say something, so will mention: If you are storing a vehicle for a long period of time, it is better to actually COMPLETELY fill the tank along with fuel stabilizer or drain it completely so as to avoid fuel spoilage). Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, consider riding a bike or walking ... If under a mile, it'd be good for you :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: Was reminded, you should follow your manufacturer's guidelines on oil changes which states for mileage &lt;strong&gt;AND for time&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T14:12:04.573" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T14:12:04.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9040" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:40:51.930" Score="36" ViewCount="83939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am old enough to have had about four transmission failures spaced over about 40 years and at no time did any mechanic ever offer to “fix” it; the only diagnosis has been a complete rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not what happens to any other part of the car. There are many potential repairs to the engine. Various individual parts can be replaced and/or repaired and even the engine itself can be tinkered with to an amazing extent without ever costing anywhere close to $2500. I’ve even heard of having engines rebuilt for less than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not transmissions though; only a rebuild. I’ve asked every mechanic I’ve ever used why and I’ve gotten many different answers – they usually involve something about the transmission being so hard to get to that by the time you’ve hoisted the engine out of the way or done whatever else, you’ve spent enough labor to make it feasible to just rebuild the whole thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this doesn’t really ring true for some reason. I can’t see why a manufacturer can’t design some access into the thing that might allow some service. That last mechanic told me that the case and all the gears inside are all original – they only replaced the parts (clutches) that were worn. Surely some sort of access hole could be a part of the design much like the oil pan underneath the engine. My current vehicle's transmission has no drain plug at all that I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4689" LastEditorUserId="2336" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T19:55:57.407" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T20:42:56.053" Title="Why doesn't anyone ever repair an automatic transmission?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9046" CreationDate="2014-03-13T21:41:17.043" Score="5" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, my car has a bad case of the eccentric bolts being rusted solidly into the rear toe arm.  Best practice repair is sawzall through the bolt where it goes through the outer bushing, then pop the bolt head from the mount, throw away the old toe arm (with eccentric bolt solidly rusted in side) and replace the whole arm assembly (and bolt).  I reckon that I should be using cutting oil as hardened steel is going to take awhile.  Cutting oil is nowhere to be found in the local big box stores (employees have said that they get a LOT of requests for it though).  Can I get away with something like WD-40 or will I just end up lighting it on fire and causing myself even more problems?  I've heard of people doing this procedure dry, but it can eat a whole pack of blades that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" OwnerDisplayName="Brian Knoblauch" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T08:51:57.313" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T08:51:57.313" Title="What cutting oil for hardened steel bolts?" Tags="|repair|bolts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9028" CreationDate="2014-03-13T21:59:44.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the Throttle Position Sensor, when those go out, there seems to be a delayed response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4675" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T21:59:44.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2014-03-13T22:19:17.660" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things which are easier said than done. To start with, let me show you a picture of a four speed transmission which has been blown apart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJ8g2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those hundreds of parts go through the front end of the transmission. If a single part is bad (which it usually is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the case), you have to pull all of this apart in order to diagnose and repair. Like the mechanic you talked to said, it doesn't make sense to replace just the part which is bad while you have it all apart. The parts are pretty much the cheap part of the rebuild (or fix). Why not just make it a brand new transmission through the rebuild process. You could replace the single part, at a cost difference of a couple hundred dollars, only to have it go bad again in the not too distant future when another part goes bad which wasn't replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases when a transmission needs repaired, it is one or more of the soft parts which have gone bad. These include the band(s) and clutches. Usually the hard parts, like the gears, do not go bad and are reused after a thorough cleaning and inspection. You also have to consider, the transmission is very susceptible to debris. When these soft part start letting go, it can put a lot of debris through the transmission which the filter cannot keep up with. When the debris starts going around, it will damage other soft parts in the process. Soft parts also tend to wear at about the same pace (within the same group). So, not just one clutch in the clutch pack will go bad, but the entire group of them will go bad. You aren't going to replace just one clutch, you have to replace all of them. One last thing to consider here is that they sell the transmission parts as a kit (with a few exceptions). You aren't just going to buy single parts. By parts in this instance I'm talking about the soft parts ... you can usually buy hard parts separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no other way, with current transmission design, for you to get at any of the parts inside the transmission ... at least the parts which make the vehicle go. The design as it is, is very compact and does the job very well. If there was any way for a mechanic to be able to get to the parts inside without going the way it does now, it wouldn't have the strength to stay together. Believe me when I say, you could be a rich man to design an automatic transmission to do as you are suggesting and still have it as compact and efficient as what is currently offered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you don't see a drain plug on most automatic transmission is because when you change the fluid, you also change the filter. The exception to this is when you take it to a shop and get the transmission flushed. When they do this, they force fluid backwards through your transmission using the cooling lines. This (supposedly) cleans the filter in the process as well as completely exchanges the old fluid for new fluid (to include the torque converter - which doesn't happen when you just drop the pan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the cost, as you suggested, is because of one, the labor involved in removing the transmission from the car, and two, because not every mechanic can rebuild a transmission. To do it right takes some extra learning. You just cannot throw it together and expect it to work ... and every make/model is different. All of that costs money. Most engines, on the other hand, are pretty much the same (with a few exceptions). They are all pretty much hard parts which go together relatively easy. There are some idiosyncrasies, but for the most part, they're not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this gives you a flavor for why you aren't going to see too many shops offering to repair your transmission. Again, as the mechanic said, the major part of any transmission repair is the labor for Removal &amp;amp; Replacement of the transmission itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T22:19:17.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9035" CreationDate="2014-03-14T00:52:05.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moisture in the crankcase and in the exhaust system seems to be the two biggest issues. More frequent oil changes are a good insurance policy. I don't think there's much you can do about the exhaust. For the extremely short distance I would not warm up the car at all. This will reduce the amount of moisture created and not burned off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1475" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T00:52:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9030" CreationDate="2014-03-14T01:46:12.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the California DMV webpage &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Reregister a Salvage Vehicle&lt;/a&gt;, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An Application for Title or Registration (REG 343) form (PDF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proof of ownership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Verification of Vehicle (REG 31) form or CHP inspection certificate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake and light adjustment certificates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appropriate fees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also need…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An Application for Salvage Certificate or Nonrepairable Vehicle Certificate (REG 488C) form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smog certification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight certificate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle/Vessel Transfer and Reassignment Form (REG 262)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Statement of Facts (REG 256) form (PDF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declaration of Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)/Combined Gross Vehicle Weight (CGW) (REG 4008) form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Permanent Trailer Identification (PTI) Application and Certification (REG 4017) form&#xA;To surrender existing license plates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question, it appears &lt;strong&gt;you will need the Brake and light adjustment certificates&lt;/strong&gt;. Please note towards the bottom of the CA DMV site, there is an exception listed as to the need of the certificates, but that looks pretty remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T01:46:12.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T03:38:05.377" Score="1" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently my current rear tire (talon, some cheap brand) seems to be out of round lately. I have been replacing it with the same tire from the same brand and I notice that every time I drive on deep potholes, they seem to be out of round afterwards. &#xA;I'm not exactly the best driver, so I usually drive fast on potholes so I could get past them quicker. Recently I was driving on the mountains, and as I reached the top of a hill/mountain, I have not noticed a pothole, so I went in  at 35-40mph, and I think it caused the problem with my tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended tire pressure I think for my car is 32psi, but I opt to put it to 35psi, for better fuel economy and so I could really feel my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do use dunlop for my front tires, and I might consider replacing the rear with dunlops as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do with my tires to prevent them from being out of round whilst at the same time maintaining my driving style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T19:13:44.790" Title="good tire pressure for agressive driving" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9035" CreationDate="2014-03-14T10:43:40.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only drive short distances, the battery will be drained for power, because it don't get enought time to recover and recharge. Especially in winter and it's cold outside, you turn on all heaters in the car, driver seat, heater in windows. You should drive longer distances once a week or recharge the battery so you don't damage it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4490" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T10:43:40.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T18:42:29.280" Score="3" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened three times now, and it's definitely becoming worrisome. While driving on the highway, the check engine light comes on. Nothing seems to be wrong initially, until I exit the highway. Once I come to a stop, the car stops shifting out of first. I can shift to neutral or reverse, but drive won't shift out of first, and manually shifting to &quot;3&quot; has no effect either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, every time it's happened, after leaving the car to cool for a few hours, the engine light goes away, and the transmission begins shifting normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can check myself before resorting to bringing it to a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4690" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T18:42:29.280" Title="02 Town&amp;Country not shifting out of first" Tags="|transmission|chrysler|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T00:24:10.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9038" CreationDate="2014-03-14T18:59:39.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, WD-40 should probably work good. It also says to stay away from multi-weight oils (due to the detergents and other factors), but single weight oils should work just fine (like SAE10 or 20, if you can find them). According to the article, there are four things which cutting oil does for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps the workpiece at a stable temperature (critical when working to close tolerances). Very warm is OK, but extremely hot or alternating hot-and-cold are avoided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximizes the life of the cutting tip by lubricating the working edge&#xA;and reducing tip welding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensures safety for the people handling it (toxicity, bacteria, fungi)&#xA;and for the environment upon disposal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevents rust on machine parts and cutters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T18:59:39.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9064" CreationDate="2014-03-14T21:24:11.370" Score="1" ViewCount="6840" Body="&lt;p&gt;My riding experience: 1 day. Already I'm an idiot. This will probably be a good laugh for most of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a used bike, Yamaha VStar 250, &amp;lt;2,000 miles, &amp;lt;4 years old. Battery has not been replaced, but owner kept his bike garaged with the battery on a tender. I don't know how old the gas is, but it's safe to assume it's probably less than 6 months old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was taking a cruise to remind myself how to ride. Halfway through, stalling out on a turn,  I had a mental blip. I switched shifting up with shifting down. After a few times trying to start it in 5th instead of first with the choke fully engaged, clutch in, (thinking I was stalling out), the engine doesn't turn. It wasn't until afterward that I found neutral and realized I was in the wrong gear all that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I could hear a turning noise and the turning would stop and I'd hear a faint buzzing noise. Now I only get the buzzing noise. During the turns, you could see power to the headlamp diminish. I can hear gas sloshing around and I tried starting on the reserve, but that did nothing (can you even start a bike on reserve??). The owner warned me that I ought to fire it up soon and burn through the bas, as the tank had sat around for a relatively long period. However, it has started fine initially, when it actually was in first, and before my mental lapse as to where the gears actually are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect I may have flooded the carb by attempting to have actually accelerated the bike from a stop in fifth gear a few times. I also think there could be battery or bad gas issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastEditorUserId="4692" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T22:30:59.357" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T17:16:44.410" Title="Yamaha Vstar 250 won't start: need to diagnose and fix possible fuel, battery, or flooded carb" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T22:20:24.717" Score="4" ViewCount="37019" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the proper way of using the product? With full or half tank of gas?&#xA;Is it recommended to do motor oil change after the cleaner? Thank you in advance for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T21:08:03.527" Title="BG 44K Fuel system cleaner?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9048" CreationDate="2014-03-14T22:46:05.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/#bg-product-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The product page&lt;/a&gt; describes the product as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just one can of BG 44K® in your fuel tank can boost your car’s&#xA;  performance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is spring, I'm assuming this stuff is supposed to end up in a bike. I have never used it, or even know if it's available in my country, but why not scale it down to the corresponding ratio for your tank volume? I cant find any instruction, but should they not be printed on the bottle it's that important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T22:46:05.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9057" CreationDate="2014-03-15T00:29:59.377" Score="4" ViewCount="50602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new SUV with a backup camera.  It constantly gets dirty from melting snow, rain, road grim, etc.  How can I keep the lens clean, or clean it without causing damage to the lens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect anything to be able to keep the lens clean while it is actively ugly on the roads, but I want it to be clean and free from grime when it is dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2014-03-15T14:32:33.093" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T06:15:55.900" Title="How can I keep my backup camera lens clean?" Tags="|camera|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9050" CreationDate="2014-03-15T03:05:57.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how well it might work, but you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://t.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-18-oz-NeverWet-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Kit-274232/204216476&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NeverWet&lt;/a&gt; from Rust-Oleum. It is a super hydrophobic spray on solution which repels water &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; well. Could keep it clean by keeping it free of deposits. The only thing I am unsure of is how clear it goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T03:05:57.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9054" CreationDate="2014-03-15T09:37:31.767" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have been driving my stang 2013 V6  for almost 2 years now. Right from the day 1 I have noticed that outside temperature somehow made my cars acceleration/ pickup however you call it become sluggish. I feel my car is more monster at night than at day I can easily get to 80 in no time and there have been times i felt uncontrolled power thrown back at me. Am I over thinking or is it really that hottter climate affects engine speed and pickup somehow??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was talking to a friend of mine and he said it would make more sense if it was other way around since engine gets heated quicker during day( not sure if this really is connected to the pickup part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can add up or install to dix this , I top up the fluids every 3 months promptly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4696" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-16T01:31:51.320" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T17:07:01.317" Title="Mustang V6 sluggish pickup during day" Tags="|ford|power|throttle|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9053" CreationDate="2014-03-15T11:58:51.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, cold, humid air will make a difference. You can run richer mixture on a cold morning than on a hot afternoon, for example. On a small two-stroke you'll swap jets, while a modern (generous usage here) car adjust the mixture itself according to sensor data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T11:58:51.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2014-03-15T14:36:12.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I went on and ordered the tumbler part online. I came with two non-chipped keys. This morning, I got to the car to replace the part. As I mentioned in my update to the question, there is no problem with using the original key as a transponding element, while using the new key to actually turn the switch. However, I did not get any response to my question whether there is a difference between the tumbler parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there seems to be one crucial difference. The immobilizer compatible tumbler has its cylindrical &quot;head&quot; of a smaller radius than the replacement part. The difference is where the immobilizer's antenna/coil is located. It is a black plastic ring, where the antenna wire runs inside, and has the key position marking text imprinted on its front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement part has the text imprinted on the metal part itself. Unfortunately, the antenna cable is too short to pull it out of the lower dash cover. I could not find a way to close the cover when holding the ring outside as far as possible. Also, I could not leave the ring &lt;em&gt;on top of&lt;/em&gt; the switch, because its internal diameter is smaller than the key's width, so it prevents it from pushing all the way into the switch, so I cannot turn it from LOCK to ACC position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like I will need to return it and order a security compatible part for $150 or so :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T14:36:12.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38845" CreationDate="2014-03-15T14:47:19.483" Score="16" ViewCount="137518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Honda Pilot with 3600 miles on it.  Historically I have always changed oil in my vehicles every 3000 miles, using good quality non-synthetic oil.  Now this Honda has an &quot;oil life indicator&quot; and it reports the oil still has 60% of it's life left.  The manual says I should change the oil when there is about 15% life left.  This sounds reasonable, but is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on keeping this vehicle for a long time.  Should I stick with my every 3000 mile habits or will the &quot;oil life indicator&quot; accurately indicate when the oil should be changed to prevent engine damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T19:16:39.370" Title="Is an &quot;oil life indicator&quot; a reliable indicator for when to change the oil?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|oil|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9050" CreationDate="2014-03-15T16:42:32.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the camera lens area well, apply a light coating of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-and-cleaners/rainx-original-glass-treatment/#.UyR_1YX1tUk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rain-x Original&lt;/a&gt;.  I made sure I had had not left any streaks or hazing, by buffing well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was moderately successful, but grim still tended to collect on the lens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new empty spray bottle and filled it with tap water.  I park in a heated garage so I was able to place the spray bottle for easy access when parked.  When I get home from a grimy drive, I grab the bottle and give the lens area 3 - 5 squirts.  I have not had need to physically touch the lens, decreasing the risk of scratching.  The picture remains clear when the lens is dry.  I have only been using this techinique for about 3 months so can not speak to the long term reliability of it.  I suspect that there is some risk to the camera/lens from being subject to &quot;mini power-wash&quot; on a regular bases, but so far the benefits of clear view have outweighed my anxiety of potentially having to replace the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the few occasions that I did not spray off the grime immediately on arriving home, I have used a few extra sprays with good results, but spraying clean while still wet has shown the best results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; A couple years later, spraying the lenses when I pull into the garage continues to be a fine solution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="4694" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T15:58:20.197" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T15:58:20.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2014-03-15T23:53:50.497" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There a several moderately complex and variable issues in this question.  It is impossible to adequately adress all the variables, but here are some key points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First there are almost no after market protectors for the rear of the most vehicles.  There are some companion rear bumpers sold for &quot;brush guard&quot; type front bumpers. While heavier than stock bumpers they are primarily geared towards providing solid points of attachment for towing and pulling. These will provide little additional protection in the case of a rear impact, and may actually lead to increases in damage (&lt;em&gt;at high speed&lt;/em&gt;) as they tend to be mounted directly to the frame, so any shock absorber benefits of a stock bumper are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grill guards come in two basic styles, &quot;just for looks&quot; and &quot;intended for impact&quot;. As you may expect many of the chrome plated grill guards you see in your daily drive are just for looks. While shining does not always mean just for looks, the majority of &quot;intended for impact&quot; bumpers (&lt;em&gt;in my experience&lt;/em&gt;) are painted flat black.  This is because, you expect them to come into contact with; brush, rocks, trees, earth.  Touch up with a can of flat black spray paint is really easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary identifier of an &quot;intended for impact&quot; front bumper/quard is it's attachment.  Let us consider the grill guard pictured in the question. The stock bumper is still in place, so it is unlikely that the &quot;guard&quot; is bolted to the frame, in most of these types of applications it the guard is connected using light screws to equally light body parts. In the event of a frontal impact, the attachments will pull out, tearing the parts of the body, it will then fold up into the grill of the vehicle. All of this happens before the shock absorbers in the stock bumper have the opportunity to do anything. So a collision that may have left no notable blemish on your truck, has torn out part of the lower radiator support, and smashed your grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bumpers/guards designed for impact &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_bumpers_towing_racks/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(&lt;em&gt;some examples&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; fully replace the stock bumper. There are bolted directly to the frame and are intended to transfer any force applied directly to the frame of the vehicle, protecting the soft parts like, fender, grills and radiators. There are a many options for brush type additions on the basic frame mounted bumper.  Personal preference and expected terrain are the primary motivators in the decision.  If you are going to be driving up on rocks you might want something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GkBFh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My TJ on Rocks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another body protection option is for the side, often called &quot;Nerf Bars&quot; or &quot;Rock Guards&quot; these are bumpers for the side of your vehicle. These are particularly helpful when you have the possibility of having rocks or trees, impacting the side of your vehicle.  As with grill guards these also come in &quot;just for looks&quot; and &quot;intended for impact&quot;.  If they screwed to tin rather then bolting to a steel frame, you are likely to do more damage by installing something &quot;just for looks&quot;.  Particularly if it has more impact than someone standing on it to get in the vehicle. A well constructed nerf bar, can actually be used as a fulcrum while in off road situations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question. If you buy and properly install quality protection it can offer a lot of protection. Particularly in low speed high force events.  My TJ was 10 years old and not a dent in the body when I sold it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are in a highway speed accident, little additional protection is offered.  These devices work by transferring forces away from light duty body parts to the stronger steel frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcSbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My TJ second shot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T23:53:50.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9056" CreationDate="2014-03-16T00:10:39.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;General Motors has a similar system in my 2002 Silverado. The way I understand that it works is the computer looks at a variety of inputs to determine oil life. It looks at engine load, cold start cycles, engine rpms, conductivity of the oil and some others.  I know in my case it works as advertised. In the summer the engine reaches operating temperature during my short daily commute and the change oil indicator light will come on at 3500 to 4000 miles, longer if I am doing some extended highway use during vacations. In the winter my vehicle will frequently not run long enough to reach normal operating temps for days at a time. In these situations the light will indicate an oil change is due in as little as 1500 miles. I am still cautious and change the oil at 5000 miles if the light hasn't come on. But that is my personal preference. Because of the fact that it doesn't come on at a regular interval I have to assume it works. The oil gets dirtier if I do a lot of very short stops and extra condensation builds up. The important thing is to use the type of oil the program is designed for. If the manufacturer specifies synthetic use synthetic. If you use something other than what is specified you won't get the benefits of the program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T00:10:39.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27305" CreationDate="2014-03-16T04:20:50.873" Score="2" ViewCount="11729" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow-up question to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9003/replacing-the-ignition-switch-tumbler-cylinder&quot;&gt;previous question regarding the replacement of the ignition switch cylinder&lt;/a&gt; in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my 2000 Sienna there is an immobilizer circuit embedded in the switch. I need to replace the tumbler part, but a replacement key has to be programmed with the immobilizer code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found online the instruction for how to program a blank transponder key for Siennas of later models, but could not find the particular sequence of actions for the 2000 XLE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea where I can find it, before I order the $140 part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; As expected from finding the procedure of later Sienna's and other Toyota cars, there is a simple procedure for registering keys on the 2000 model that does not require a shop Scan Tool (something like open and close the door 5 times, press the brake paddle 6 times, etc.). Unfortunately, I could not find it with online search. Fortunately, a very nice local mechanic was able to print out the procedure, that he found in a subscription based forum site, and gave it to me for free... Out of courtesy to his generosity, I cannot post it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This is not really an answer, so I just updated the question with the latest info.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T19:24:12.073" Title="How to program a transponder key of a 2000 Toyota Sienna" Tags="|sienna|ignition-key|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9062" CreationDate="2014-03-16T10:13:15.783" Score="7" ViewCount="3248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8515/&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about an owner checking the alternator by disconnecting the battery, which is an easy way to validate on a gasoline engine. The single answer assumes that the OP is referring to a gasoline engine vehicle, but there is a diesel engine options for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been a while since I last played with any diesel engines, but they used to all have mechanically timed fuel injection, so once you get it running no electrical power is required to keep running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this still the case? can you assume that all diesel engines don't require electricity to continue running, or do some now  have electronically controlled fuel delivery that is dependent on an intact charging system? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T09:45:01.330" Title="Are there any modern diesel engines that require electricity to continue running?" Tags="|engine|electrical|battery|fuel-system|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9061" CreationDate="2014-03-16T18:20:08.727" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; modern diesel engines (ie: engines after mid-80s) require &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; electricity to run because they are electronically controlled. This is due to computers controlling the fuel charge and monitoring of the engine itself. Without this, the diesel engine has no control. They also require electricity to power the primary fuel pump, to move the fuel from the tank to secondary high pressure pump. (NOTE: A mechanical pump &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be used in place of an electrically driven pump, but electric pumps are more common today.) Modern diesel engines can also utilize electronic injectors to meter the fuel being forced into the combustion chamber. So, while it is true, a diesel engine would not require electricity to run, the modern ones do utilize electricity peripherally to maintain better fuel economy and lower emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T18:20:08.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9048" CreationDate="2014-03-16T19:02:18.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To utilize BG44K, put the entire can in your fuel tank just prior to fill-up at the gas pump. This will ensure the product is completely mixed with your fuel. You should use at a ratio of one can to an entire fuel tank (for passenger car/truck). If using it in a motorcycle or some other small engines, you will need to decrease the amount used, but figure about one can per 15-18 US gallons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BG44K is a &lt;em&gt;fuel&lt;/em&gt; treatment. It should be used in the gas tank. BG has other products which can be used to treat the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-moa/#bg-product-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oil&lt;/a&gt;. There is no need to change the oil or filter when using BG44K by itself. If you get other treatments, it may be required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the BG44K can has very little instruction on it. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/#bg-product-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BG website&lt;/a&gt; has even less. I am going to assume it is this way because BG44K can only be purchased through a licensed dealer, which is usually a maintenance garage. You will not (as of this post) find it at WalMart, Target, or other such stores. I have seen it for purchase on eBay, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T19:02:18.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9047" CreationDate="2014-03-17T00:26:18.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery was dead. I removed it, put it on the tender, and she was able to turn after a charge. Just goes to show its a very large amount of juice needed to get the engine started. Don't undermine the importance of tending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T00:26:18.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-17T02:09:18.617" Score="11" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars generally (and specifically a Honda Accord 2002) are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/vehicle_energy_losses.html&quot;&gt;not very energy-efficient&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all the inefficiencies, is it &quot;free&quot; to plug in, say, a smartphone into a car to charge while I am driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;free&quot; I mean, if I don't plug anything in, would the energy that would've gone into my phone wasted anyway -- converted into heat, noise, or exhaust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not free, where specifically does the energy come from?  Does the alternator put a higher physical load on the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When answering, please keep in mind that certainly I am aware that there's no &quot;free energy&quot;.  My definition of &quot;free&quot; mirrors the idea of regenerative braking, for example. Sure, that power came from your fuel to begin with, but it would've come from your fuel anyway -- you're just capturing what would've been vented out as heat in your brake pads.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T15:05:58.323" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T01:27:22.117" Title="Is any power from the alternator 'free'?" Tags="|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9065" CreationDate="2014-03-17T09:35:52.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alternator is there to charge your battery. It's the battery that provides power to the electrical components inside the cabin. A voltage regulator determines whether your battery is fully charged or not and will allow the alternator to charge it if not. So if you don't use the energy, the regulator will discard the energy coming from the alternator. Probably as heat energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator is driven by a belt running off the engine, so there is parasitic drag that reduces the efficiency of the engine somewhat. That is why many racing cars have a crank-fired ignition system that eliminates the need for an alternator. They may still carry a battery to power the lights and/or management system. These batteries need to be charged before each race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T06:50:30.473" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T06:50:30.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-17T11:02:01.423" Score="3" ViewCount="21763" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the green dashboard symbol mean on a Toyota vios 2008? When you start the car, this symbol is lighted. After 5 minutes it goes off. I'm guessing this indicates that the engine is still cool and warming up. Should I wait for this to go off before I drive the car? Or no need to wait for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symbol looks like a pole with three flags, and the word &quot;COOL&quot; at the bottom of it, all are in the color green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4538" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T16:42:02.863" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T16:37:27.583" Title="What does the green dashboard symbol mean on a Toyota vios 2008?" Tags="|toyota|warning-light|vios|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9065" CreationDate="2014-03-17T13:16:56.573" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given all the inefficiencies, is it &quot;free&quot; to plug in, say, a&#xA;  smartphone into a car to charge while I am driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer: no&lt;/strong&gt; (but it's so hard to measure the impact that it be hard for you to tell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the alternator has to power everything connected to the electrical system.  Charging the battery is a big load at first but drops off as the battery reaches a full charge.  Your wonderfully beefy stereo also draws a bunch of power.  Lights are another surprisingly large load: remember all those horribly inefficient incandescent bulbs that everyone is replacing in their houses?  In the right circumstances, I can observe my engine idle dropping a bit using only the lights (if I go from full dark to high beams).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, the alternator isn't particularly efficient itself.  Let's look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator_%28automotive%29#Field_regulation&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; for a summary of why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Efficiency of automotive alternators is limited by fan cooling loss,&#xA;  bearing loss, iron loss, copper loss, and the voltage drop in the&#xA;  diode bridges. At partial load efficiency is between 50-62% depending&#xA;  on the size of alternator and varies with alternator speed.[6] This is&#xA;  similar to very small high-performance permanent magnet alternators,&#xA;  such as those used for bicycle lighting systems, which achieve an&#xA;  efficiency around 60%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, even before you plug in your phone, the alternator is already coping with a variety of much larger loads including its own internal inefficiencies.  So, if you hook up a 2.1 amp charger to an alternator that is rated for 50-70 amps, yes, you are drawing more current.  You are also putting more inductive load on the alternator which, therefore, puts more of a load on the entire mechanical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going to be able to tell?  Not without a careful experimental procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's not free, where specifically does the energy come from? Does&#xA;  the alternator put a higher physical load on the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes (but not nearly as high a load as actually moving the car).  Again, using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator#Principle_of_operation&quot;&gt;wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; as a starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alternators generate electricity using the same principle as DC&#xA;  generators, namely, when the magnetic field around a conductor&#xA;  changes, a current is induced in the conductor. Typically, a rotating&#xA;  magnet, called the rotor turns within a stationary set of conductors&#xA;  wound in coils on an iron core, called the stator. The field cuts&#xA;  across the conductors, generating an induced EMF (electromotive&#xA;  force), as the mechanical input causes the rotor to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at an incredibly simplified level, you can think of an alternator as something similar to a water pump except that, instead of creating a water current, it's creating an electrical current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This current then alternates direction very fast, which you'd never do with a water pump as it would cause cavitation.  The analogy breaks down pretty fast but let's hand wave our way past that part....&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything electrical connected to the system needs that current to flow.  If you add more load to the electrical system, that will eventually translate into more mechanical work for the alternator to create that original current.  As the engine turns the alternator, eventually this all results in the engine doing more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T13:16:56.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:11:34.173" Score="0" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you test injectors on a 1999 F-350 with a 7.3 motor? I think it might be misfiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4143" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T17:35:19.423" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T06:54:30.830" Title="How to test injectors on a 1999 F-350 with a 7.3" Tags="|ford|diesel|fuel-injection|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9073" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:48:01.570" Score="0" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right stack site but couldn't find any more related! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm buying a new car next week. It has Aux in cable but not Bluetooth or card reader. My question is, will the radio/CD &quot;display&quot; be able to show any track info like the title? Or will it just show aux in mode or something? Also can i control it via the car system or do I have to do it through my phone ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is golf 7 1.4 tsi comfortline &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3179" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T18:02:14.757" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T12:19:04.917" Title="What info can be displayed with aux in" Tags="|vw|audio|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2014-03-17T16:23:42.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suzuki garage found the issue. Broken hose going to the engine was the problem, nothing major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T16:23:42.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9080" CreationDate="2014-03-18T03:40:28.390" Score="2" ViewCount="11320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado with several missing lights on buttons. See pictures below. I have seen in a couple places that they are soldered on and you can't replace them. Is this true? If not, how do you fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6lsBM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dash&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/in8Ef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fgecc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1RLQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:49:29.290" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:49:29.290" Title="2006 Chevy Silverado missing dash lights" Tags="|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9070" CreationDate="2014-03-18T12:19:04.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Aux port is simply an SPDIF (3.5mm headphone) port that turns your car stereo into an expensive set of speakers for your MP3 player. It doesn't do anything fancy like &quot;communicating&quot; with your device, aside from accepting incoming audio. I don't know anything about your specific car, but generally you switch your car's audio system to Aux-in mode when plugging something in and the display will show something generic along the line of &quot;AUX&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T12:19:04.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9053" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:07:01.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Humid air will for sure make a difference, depending on exactly how hot it is where you live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for being able to cool the air down, there are a few different aftermarket options, but nothing that I'd reccomend. Cold-Air intakes don't make a difference. I knew of a few airboxes you can get that cool the air, but I don't have any experience with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T17:07:01.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9056" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:13:04.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine oil life indicator should be more than sufficient. Just make sure to check your dipstick every now and then to make sure you still have a good amount of oil. The indicator is alright, and I have trusted the one on my Avalanche so far with no problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T17:13:04.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9047" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:16:44.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is dead. You are hearing the starter solenoid clicking over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your bike not have a kick-starter? It's only a 250, it should, right? I don't know much about new bikes at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do happen to flood the engine again, just go full choke, and spin the engine over a few times. That should help unflood them, if that doesn't work, go inside and make some coffee, let it sit for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T17:16:44.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:23:29.660" Score="4" ViewCount="3949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know very much about throttle bodies and stuff, but I do have an interesting question: I just bought a 2000 BMW 323i with the M52TU engine. It would seem that this specific year does not have electronic throttle control, so retrofitting cruise control to it would either be a complete overhaul of the system or completely impossible. (I'm not a car expert, so &lt;em&gt;please&lt;/em&gt; correct me if I'm wrong here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does anyone know if it is possible to retrofit cruise control to this car? If so, what would it entail? If not, does anyone have a spare foot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jokes aside, any input is much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4660" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:57:40.273" Title="Adding cruise control to BMW without electronic throttle control" Tags="|bmw|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2014-03-18T18:36:30.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are actually choices for you out there. I'm not sure if these &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; Universal Cruise Control units would work, but it should give you some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007ZCQD9S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rostra Universal Electronic Cruise Control 250-1223&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00029WQTW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A buddy of mine installed one on his car (older Nissan) and it worked perfectly for what he wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T18:36:30.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9072" CreationDate="2014-03-18T20:37:38.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to replace the module or switch that has the lights out. On the older body style chevys you were able to replace just the bulbs but not anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4705" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T20:37:38.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9069" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:08:27.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I've done it is to remove the injectors and have them flow tested. Also you should remove the valve covers and run the engine to check for other fuel leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4706" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T21:08:27.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9072" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:12:40.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can replace the bulbs, but it's not the easiest thing to do. You need to have &lt;strong&gt;patience&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;a soldering iron&lt;/strong&gt;. Many people take this time to replace the bulbs with LED bulbs, in a color of their choice. It's also recommended that you replace all of the bulbs at the same time to alleviate having to tear it all apart again in the near future for the same purpose or so you don't have some bulbs brighter than others. Here are some examples which should prove good for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC_dE0iZtxE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dash cluster bulb replacement - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://usedcarsit.com/gauge-light-bulb-replacement-chevy-buick-pontiac-cadillac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Write up for the above replacement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP-KV0m6Tj0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pulling steering wheel controls to get to the bulbs - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moPkwIXpQS4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bulb replacement on 2002-2009 Chevrolet radio - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T21:12:40.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7562" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:20:29.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that a battery connection or corrosion concern would be the cause.  I also would like to point out that diesels do not have distributor caps or spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4706" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T21:20:29.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9060" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:25:59.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to use a factory or equivalent scan tool to program the new key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4706" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T21:25:59.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:37:53.797" Score="3" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is Ford Focus 2002 model. Ztec engine. 1.6V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll go straight to the point. The problem started when I got my car engine washed (with water). I changed the coil, and plugs. It started running fine until after few days later, I had to try several times before it could start. An auto electrician checked it and adjusted the IDLE SPEED. It started in one try in his shop but the problem persisted when I got home. The following morning, I noticed the TACHOMETER did the opposite - before the guy adjusted the idle speed,  the normal behaviour of tachometer was to start coming down slowly from about 1000rpm to about 650rpm. But now, the tachometer starts from about 650rpm and goes up slowly till almost 1000rpm during warm up in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgive me for the poor explanation. I took it back to the guy, he changed the fuel pump (used one). The car has been responding to one start or two since then but the tachometer continues the abnormal behaviour (my observation). To cut the story short, I changed the fuel pump to a new one today when I noticed the sluggish behaviour when I press the gas pedal and especially when I put on the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The movement is now smooth but my tachometer continues to misbehave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to run a scan on it but the place is far from where I stay. Please can this be put to normal? I know something is wrong. I just want to know how bad it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4707" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T21:37:53.797" Title="Tachometer On My Car Is Doing The Opposite At Warm up" Tags="|repair|gauges|motors|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T00:25:10.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2014-03-19T01:13:41.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out today. The spark plug in one of the cylinders blew out of the head while driving. The 'squeaking' was actually a whistling as air was pushed passed the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T01:13:41.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7498" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:39:21.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;HAHA! I had this EXACT problem happen on one of my motorbikes. Basically the velocity of the wind hits a perfect speed over either a crack in the intake pipe, or some other object, and it whistles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure why you would bother with cold air intakes. At best they only really provide the same level of gains as a better air filter. There are people that disagree, but I don't see a reason to even bother. I've removed them from cars and seen better gains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, back to your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Odyssey (ATV with a big intake in the back), there was a crack in the plastic on the intake. Repairing the crack fixed the problem. If replacing the pipe doesn't fix the problem, you should check anything along your intake, it is most likely something that the intake air is screeching over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:39:21.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:47:32.837" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DUDE! You can't run ethanol in old cars! The fuel lines are made out of plastic, and, as you have just experienced, crack when exposed to ethanol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a whole myriad of other problems that ethanol causes. My suggestion would be to replace the fuel lines and injector(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are lucky, and Mazda used fuel lines and injectors that aren't damaged by the ethanol, the cars aren't equipped to handle air-fuel mixture and the changes that the ethanol causes to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, Try draining your ethanolated gas, and replace it with regular gasoline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there will be people telling you that older cars CAN handle ethanol, but you need to remember that Mazda engineers were not designing the cars to handle it, so it might run in the short term, but I wouldn't chance it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:47:32.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:54:50.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up here in Canada, our vehicle inspection is pretty lax, but Lambo-doors introduce a pretty big safety issue, and they are not allowed on the road. I have yet to see a kit that deals with the problem of a car that has been flipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that Lambo's have windshields that can be broken outwards in case of a rollover. Mercedes' Gullwings have exploding bolts. This is most of the reason why these kits are rejected from safeties. I'm sure that you can probably argue to get it passed if you work out this problem, and any other problem they can present to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:54:50.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5810" CreationDate="2014-03-19T03:01:26.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, it seems like you didn't buy a Quattro. You bought a FWD car, unless Audi invented some way of transferring power without a drive shaft :(. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to talk to the person you bought it from, and bring it to their attention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T03:01:26.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-19T15:10:28.743" Score="1" ViewCount="6236" Body="&lt;p&gt;A magneto is device similar to an alternator for creating electrical energy.  Many small gas engines, including several road worthy motorcycles, use them to generate electrical energy.  They can be used for supplying spark or charging a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that efficiency (&lt;em&gt;i.e. cost or power demand&lt;/em&gt;) plays the major role in deciding to use a magneto or an alternator. When is a magneto more efficient than an alternator? Is there some general rule of thumb used to decide which to use on an application? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T14:15:19.940" Title="When is a magneto more efficient than an alternator?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9095" CreationDate="2014-03-19T15:44:25.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magnetos are used to provide spark to spark plugs in an engine that does not require electronic fuel injection and variable valve timing. Or more accurately: a magneto can be used in the case where you simply need to fire spark plugs and not much else. They're simpler than alternators and thus more reliable, but a magneto the size of an alternator won't be able to produce nearly as much current as the alternator, making it useless in passenger cars. A magneto simply can't supply enough amps to charge a 12V battery capable of supporting your lights, stereo, engine management and electric windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting fact: magnetos are used in some race cars in lieu of an alternator as part of a crank-fired spark plug setup. this is because this setup creates much less parasitic drag on the engine, thus freeing up more of the horses to turn the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T15:44:25.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:20:25.397" Score="2" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Honda CRV starts fine but dies if the gas pedal is pressed before it warms up completely. After starting it and then pressing the gas pedal or putting it in gear, it starts to splutter and dies, then is difficult to restart. If allowed to warm up completely it does not have this problem, and runs fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4713" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T10:21:31.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T18:47:05.553" Title="My 2000 Honda CRV starts fine but dies if pedal is pressed before it warms up completely" Tags="|honda|crv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9099" CreationDate="2014-03-19T21:16:08.467" Score="6" ViewCount="6521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with a 2.0 liter engine and a manual transmission, and when I let out the clutch too fast while in reverse or 1st, sometimes the engine RPM will drop so low that it makes a nightmarish knocking sound before recovering. What is that dreadful noise? ( is it the transmission? the engine mounts? the piston grinding away at something god forbid? )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with the knocking caused by air being too hot and/or the fuel mixture being too lean, but to the best of my knowledge that happens under power and usually not with the engine is simply idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:35:58.673" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T11:19:28.413" Title="What is that knocking sound my engine makes when the revs drop too low?" Tags="|engine|transmission|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9098" CreationDate="2014-03-19T22:27:12.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like to me this is the general noise an engine makes when being &quot;lugged&quot; or run at a low RPM under heavy load ... basically, it makes this noise because there is a big boom in the cylinder and no place for the energy to go. This really is not good for your engine at all. You should try to be a little more gentle on your engine and drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T22:27:12.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9098" CreationDate="2014-03-19T22:37:28.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the engine &quot;Lugging&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the expansion is still happening in the cylinder, and it is doing one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The crank is being violently cranked forwards. This is usually when you get the 'pulsing' feeling in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The expansion is happening, but the piston isn't moving at the right time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not good for any part of your engine, transmission, or differential. You should avoid it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T22:37:28.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8970" CreationDate="2014-03-20T12:40:00.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, bear with me on this and maybe I can help. Mind you, none of what I'm going to say is going to be easy to do, but that is because your issue is not an easy one to solve. The main problems I see here with any solution is alignment and distance from any mounting point I can discern. My main thought here is you need to get the alternator connected back to the engine and off of the boat. In two of your pictures, I have circled some areas which may be points you can use as mount points for what I'm going to suggest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first picture, there appears to be a water pump with three bolts that are visible. I don't know if these bolts attach to blind holes or go into a water jacket in the engine, so be aware of water leakage. If these bolts are not long enough to mount something off of, you can take a bolt down to a local hardware store (maybe you have a Fastenal in your area) and find a longer bolt with the same thread pitch or find a stud (this is where Fastenal would come in) which is long enough to replace the bolt on the pump side and have the other side protrude which you can attach a brace to. Attaching to two or more brace points (two braces connected or not) would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUViY.png&quot; alt=&quot;water pump bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second image, I see possible mount points which appear to be where the engine mounts to the boat itself. Underneath of this, I'm assuming is some type of rubber mount, but the top part, where the very rusty nuts are at, could be used as another mounting point. Also, there is a circle on the back of the alternator showing a bolt in the alternator which can probably used as a mount point on the alternator side to help secure it. In either of these cases, the alternator may be needed to moved or rotated to achieve your goal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VapMH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine motor mount points&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both of these situations, welding would help, but would not be needed as you can pick up some 1/8&quot; to 3/16&quot; thick metal strapping which can be bent in a vise and drilled to create the right sized holes. You may need to get creative to make something happen, but with a little bit of ingenuity can be done with good results. Alignment of the alternator is key, or you'll be wearing belts out or they will tend to jump off of the alternator. Even if off a small amount can cause issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still don't believe any of the above will be able to work, my next idea is a lot more wilder and a bit harder to implement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first drawing, you see the engine side pulley on the left and alternator on the right, with the belt running from each. The object in the middle would need to be your spring tensioner. Annotation (1) and (2) are places where threaded rods goes through with a roller bearing in between to allow the belt to ride on. Two nuts on the outside would hold it together. Flat washers would be needed between the nut/plate and between the plate/bearing to allow movement space for the bearing and security of the whole contraption. Annotation (3) is where you'd need to provide a mounting point, to either the alternator itself or the engine, to stabilize the spring tensioner. The second drawing is a close up from side and top of how it would be built. One of the two hole in the plate would need to be slotted to allow movement. This slot would probably need to be fairly long to allow for decent movement of the rod and bearing. You would need to have fairly stout springs on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFYlI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7lPQg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you might get the parts to build this, but it may give you ideas on how you could do this. Let me know what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T12:40:00.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2014-03-20T16:21:39.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added a Honda(tm) OEM block heater to my 2009 Civic Hybrid.  I was living in Kansas at the time and pre-heating the engine seemed to help with mileage an time until heat available on very cold mornings.  On the 2009 HCH there is a plug screwed into the back of the block just below the head, on the passenger side.  unscrew the plu and replace with the heater.  You have to drain down the coolant to do this with minimal mess.  Actually a far easier operation than the Freeze plug replacement (which I did at the same time to a Chrysler V-6).  I ordered the part online (from a reputable, but now forgotten site) Be certain to route the cable as per instructions and away from any exhaust pipes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4721" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T16:21:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9146" CreationDate="2014-03-20T19:18:23.800" Score="2" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a precise way to know if/when my torque converter is locked up/unlocking on a Nissan Maxima 2002?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most answers I've found over the internet is &quot;by feeling&quot;. For instance, &quot;when this situation X occurs, it will unlock&quot;, or &quot;when you reach about speed Y, you'll feel a little boost -- that's when it's locking&quot;. That's not quite precise and I've not been able to &quot;feel&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4534" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T21:07:18.477" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T16:44:42.550" Title="Is there a way to know if the torque converter is locked up?" Tags="|nissan|maxima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9106" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-20T22:46:16.193" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T22:46:16.193" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T22:46:16.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9107" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-20T22:46:16.193" Score="0" Body="General Motors pickup truck manufactured by Chevrolet. Introduced in 1998 (as a 1999 model) to replace the Chevy C/K line of pickup trucks. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T00:40:36.993" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T00:40:36.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9110" CreationDate="2014-03-21T11:48:35.920" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a question at a sister site; &lt;a href=&quot;https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/52215&quot;&gt;Why use steam instead of alcohol in Army of Darkness?&lt;/a&gt; It is suggested in the comments and an answer that without major modifications the V8 in the Oldsmobile will not run on pure alcohol without blowing up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are modifications required to run pure home distilled alcohol in an early 1970s V8?  If so what modifications are required? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:43:40.560" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T12:37:30.490" Title="Will a 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 reliably run on home distilled alcohol?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9108" CreationDate="2014-03-21T12:37:30.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will it run? Yes. Reliably? Depends on what your definition of &quot;reliable&quot; is, as longevity of an otherwise viable vehicle is going to be greatly shortened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several things at play here. There are several problems with running pure alcohol (ethanol) in any vehicle. (Also remember, even ethanol sold as fuel at filling stations is only 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline - on average.) Pure alcohol is corrosive to many parts of the fuel system, especially in older vehicles. It will start corroding the gas tank, which will flake bits of rust into the gas system, start clogging the fuel filter, and eventually cause a leak (over a great period of time). It will also start degrading any seals and rubber hoses associated with the fuel system. I believe newer vehicles which can utilize ethanol based fuels have Teflon seals or stainless steel based tubing to prevent corrosion. It will probably also deteriorate the floats in the carburetor to the point where they will no longer &quot;float&quot; and cause continuous flooding issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next problem is ethanol has less energy per quantity than gasoline, which means your older vehicle will require specific tuning for it. This would require changing jets out in the carburetor to ensure the proper amount of fuel is getting metered. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; article, 85 ethanol fuel contains about 33% less fuel than regular gasoline. This means you'd need to use a lot more fuel to have the same power output. Timing could be advanced some, since alcohol based fuel has a higher octane rating than petroleum based fuels, making it harder to burn and less prone to pre-detonation (or pinging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a vehicle be made to manage with alcohol based fuels, by all means, but it takes some work to make it happen. Newer vehicles which are &quot;flex-fuel&quot; vehicles (capable of using either regular fuel or E85 fuel) have already made the changes which are needed. They can also measure the fuel with sensors to &quot;understand&quot; what type is being used and adjust how much fuel is being used to cover the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T12:37:30.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9111" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-22T00:58:32.297" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-22T00:58:32.297" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T00:58:32.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9112" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-22T00:58:32.297" Score="0" Body="Model of Volvo automobile produced between 1987 and 1997. Succeeded by the S40/V40." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-22T14:16:04.453" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T14:16:04.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2014-03-22T12:44:11.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say, the M52 engine does not have an electronic throttle. However, the M52 was available with cruise control, so retrofitting the BMW system will be the neatest solution (as a bonus, you'll get audio controls on the steering wheel!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW actually produced a standard kit for dealers to retrofitting cruise control, which makes your life easier. This thread should have all the info you need for your M52: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=618671&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=618671&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some conflicting reports about whether a re-code of the ECU is required, but these instructions says it isn't, so fingers crossed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T12:44:11.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2014-03-23T03:08:56.417" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simple answer despite what everyone else is saying. If you live in a hot state say like Texas or Arizona, I would use no less or no more than 70% water 30% coolant in the summer and 50/50 in the winter! If it's a colder state like Colorado or Montana I would reverse it for the winter as in 70% coolant and 30% water and 50/50 in the summer! It's your choice but personally I would just do 50/50 year around unless your state see's 110 summers and -5 winters, if it does then follow the above example!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4729" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T03:08:56.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-23T03:26:20.883" Score="2" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my coolant hoses on my 2001 Ford F150 today. I let it idle for about 15 minutes and then took it for a test drive. It began to run hot during the test drive. What could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4730" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T18:51:57.913" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T11:03:22.670" Title="2001 Ford F150 running hot" Tags="|ford|coolant|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-23T14:10:37.213" Score="11" ViewCount="2235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone please help me? I have a Honda Civic 170i car in South Africa which I keep in storage for long periods of time while I'm working in the UK.&#xA;I'm going back to SA in August for 2 months &amp;amp; I realize I'll have to buy a new battery because the car hasn't been driven for about a year (I don't have anyone there who can charge it for me).  I was wondering if there's anything I can do to keep the battery charged while it's in storage so I don't have to buy a new battery every time I go back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend in the UK told me recently that I should buy a &quot;Deltran Battery Tender International Plus&quot; battery charger.  He said I would be able to just plug it in and leave it &amp;amp; it would keep the battery charged, switch itself off when it's fully charged, and switch itself on again when it needs more charge.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this might be a solution to my problem?  And if so, do you have any idea how many amps/ what size (?) battery charger I would need to get for a Honda Civic?   I've tried Googling for info but ..er, I'm a bit hopeless when it comes to car stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice would be SO much appreciated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Bev&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4731" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T14:31:28.450" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:08:09.827" Title="Should I get a battery tender for a car not used for long periods of time?" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9119" CreationDate="2014-03-23T15:05:48.320" Score="1" ViewCount="9499" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn heavy or accelerate hard in my Skoda Fabia the handbrake light flashes approximately 5 times and beeps exactly 3 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4732" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T15:05:48.320" Title="Skoda Fabia, flashes handbrake light and beeps 3 times" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2014-03-23T15:05:48.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake fluid was running low, during heavy acceleration or turning the fluid will roll away from the sensor, which created the warning.&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I topped up with DOT4 brake fluid and the problem has been resolved.&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not shake the Brake fluid you do not want bubbles dispersed in you brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4732" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T15:05:48.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9121" CreationDate="2014-03-23T16:41:34.523" Score="8" ViewCount="14737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Subaru Legacy 5.0i wagon, which has all-wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking a right turn yesterday, my rear passenger tire bumped on a curb.  About 20 minutes later the tire was flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an 'L' shaped cut on the sidewall that does not go all the way through, but exposes some threads - and obviously is no longer air-tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this tire be repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:23:38.857" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:23:38.857" Title="Sidewall of my tire has a tear, can this be repaired?" Tags="|tires|repair|4wd|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9120" CreationDate="2014-03-23T18:33:27.317" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it cannot. In fact, in the United States it is illegal for a tire shop to repair a tire which has side wall damage. The reason for this is because the integrity of the tire itself is compromised with side wall damage. Now, I'm not saying it could not be fixed per se (a simple patch could probably do it), but would you want to risk your safety or that of your passengers by putting a repair on a compromised tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T18:33:27.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9117" CreationDate="2014-03-23T18:49:56.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is absolutely the right way to go! I'm not sure about the model, I'm just talking about a battery tender in general. A lot of people who own performance vehicles or recreational vehicles (RV's) here in the States will put one on their vehicle over the winter if it is a summer only driver. The tender will do exactly what you want. It keeps the battery fully charged without issue, plus they are fairly inexpensive. I think the only caveat with them is, you need to disconnect them from the  battery before you start the vehicle. It's pretty easy though. Most of them come with a connector which you tie into your charging system of the vehicle. You just leave the pig tail attached to your car, then attach the tender when you want to leave the car go. Here is an example of one we would have here in the states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEmZb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking at the picture, the coiled part in front of the tender is the part you attach to your charging system (one connection goes to the positive either at the battery or some other &amp;quot;hot&amp;quot; point and the other one connects to ground/earth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you utilize 120v or 240v power utility in South Africa, so you'll have to ensure the one you get has that ability, but would assume any auto parts store there would have one which would work great for your purposes. There is another option if the vehicle is stored outside and uncovered, there is one which uses solar power. You plug it into your cigarette lighter or power outlet in your car, then throw the solar panel (or place lightly, actually) onto your dash. The system does the rest and does it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which ever way you go, just buying one battery tender will pay for itself with one use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T23:48:04.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9116" CreationDate="2014-03-23T19:10:43.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have air in your system, which is either causing pump cavitation or hot spots. I took a look around on the internet to see what other sites are saying for bleeding the system (which is what you need to do). I could not find any that suggested there are bleeder screws to clear out the gas pockets, so the next best thing is to have you park the truck pointing uphill and allow the vehicle to cool totally. Pop the radiator cap and top off if needed. Turn your heater temp control selector over to full hot and your direction selector to the floor (for heater - I wouldn't use the defroster during this time). Once topped off, run the vehicle up to operating temperature, keeping a close eye on the temp gauge and continue to top off if needed. Once up to temperature, put the radiator cap back on and take it for about a 10 mile test drive. You want to drive somewhere like on a highway where it will see some decent engine speed for a longer period of time. Keep a close eye on your temp gauge and signs of overheating. This should properly bleed your system, but may take a couple of iterations to get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T19:10:43.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9128" CreationDate="2014-03-23T20:54:20.680" Score="23" ViewCount="156725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Wagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just destroyed the passenger-side rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires have approx. 6/32&quot; tread remaining, per an informal measurement with a coin (I used this guideline from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51&quot;&gt;tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are Nokian tires, and according to the specs I found online, they have 11/32&quot; tread depth when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18&quot;&gt;article on tirerack.com on this topic&lt;/a&gt;, suggests that Subuaru states that the differential among tread depth should vary no more than 2/32&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My owner's manual does not specify the what difference in tread depth tolerance is, however they do point out that I have a dashboard indicator &quot;AWD&quot; that will flash if the vehicle is driven with tires of different diameters, and I assume, the drive train is in danger of being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among my family and friends, I've received conflicting opinions regarding whether I should replace all 4 tires immediately, or if I could potentially purchase the same brand and model of tire, whose tread depth, I assume, would be 11/32&quot; and be different by approx. 5/32&quot; from the existing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a definitive answer as to which option I should choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true that tread-depth can influence tire circumference enough that driving my Subaru for an extended period of time would damage the drive train?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CONCLUSION: I chose to replace all 4 tires with new tires, and I'm happy I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T20:23:59.783" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T20:23:59.783" Title="Must I Replace All 4 Tires on an All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicle?" Tags="|tires|subaru|replace|awd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-24T04:11:15.460" Score="1" ViewCount="1840" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saw this thread while investigating what sounds like the same problem with my jeep. The check gauge light came on and my battery gauge bottomed out. But  weird thing is, it ran fine. I drove it a few miles home, and turned it off, then started it again and the same thing happened real quick. What should I approach first since it's running ok. I do have some rust damage underneath. This jeep came from Detroit so its been in salt and snow for a long time, I just bought it and this is the first time its done anything weird. I could have a corroded connection or should I go right at Alternator being the culprit.&#xA;Thanks in advance for any advice,this is my first Jeep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T09:54:35.200" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T09:58:47.803" Title="Please advise on check gauges light on and battery gauge reads zero" Tags="|battery|jeep|alternator|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9125" CreationDate="2014-03-24T09:58:47.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your alternator is the culprit as the engine is running on battery power. Before you purchase a new one, though, take it to your local Autozone, Pepboys, Checker, or the like and have them test it. They will do it for free. I take it since you didn't say the steering became hard, that the serpentine belt is still running correctly. If it was difficult to steer, this would be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T09:58:47.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2014-03-24T11:55:35.197" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Kawasaki, I've ridden two before and they both had fairly clunky gearboxes (especially between gears 1 and 2), it's quirky!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4735" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T11:55:35.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9124" CreationDate="2014-03-24T12:10:32.473" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a definitive answer as to which option I should&#xA;  choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I do: you need matching tires.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's your car and you have to make the decision.  I'd tend to replace all four.  @Paulster2 also makes a good point that you could shave down a new one to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start by looking at one of the most useful paragraphs from the Tire Rack article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18&quot;&gt;that you cite&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles are equipped with&#xA;  additional differentials and/or viscous couplings that are designed to&#xA;  allow momentary differences in wheel speeds when the vehicle turns a&#xA;  corner or temporarily spins a tire. However, if the differentials or&#xA;  viscous couplings are forced to operate 100% of the time because of&#xA;  mismatched tires, they will experience excessive heat and unwarranted&#xA;  wear until they fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that means is that a mismatched tire won't break your drivetrain immediately.  It's more subtle than that: at least one differential will be loaded all of the time and at all operating speeds.  So, instead of managing the different rotation speeds in a relatively low speed turn, you'll be cooking your differential at highway straight line speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My owner's manual does not specify the what difference in tread depth&#xA;  tolerance is, however they do point out that I have a dashboard&#xA;  indicator &quot;AWD&quot; that will flash if the vehicle is driven with tires of&#xA;  different diameters, and I assume, the drive train is in danger of&#xA;  being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good that there's a light but, frankly, you can hear the differential being overworked if you listen for it.  On my Subaru, if I inflate the rear tires to match the front tires' pressure (approximately 4 psi up), I'll hear a distinctive high-pitched whine from the center differential every time I coast down from speed in second gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: my car is a manual transmission WRX.  You may have different audible symptoms in other vehicles and transmissons.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the reason that the tires should match is the same reason that you shouldn't tow an AWD car (instead they should be flat-bedded).  If the back wheels are turning at speed for miles but the front ones are not, the center differential will burn itself up in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one mismatched tire that extreme?  No, of course not.  It will wear your differential, make worrying sounds and affect your handling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have to make the call, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T12:10:32.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9120" CreationDate="2014-03-24T12:13:07.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2 gave the right answer. But in the case of an emergency where you don't have a spare tire, you could use a can of tyre-jack (or Tyre-Weld, etc) to reinflate the tire and seal the hole so that you can continue driving to a safe place or the nearest tire dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to keep two of these cans in your car, especially if you're going on a roadtrip. They're the equivalent of two extra spare tires, without the extra weight and bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T12:13:07.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-24T13:12:05.540" Score="3" ViewCount="2665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have 98 Nissan Maxima. I recently changed the thermostat in it and ever since then my fans will stay on, and I am not running the a/c either. Can you please tell me what could be causing them to turn on and stay on? This did not happen until after the thermostat was changed. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4737" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T14:32:06.613" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T21:16:03.203" Title="Fans run all the time" Tags="|nissan|maxima|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9140" CreationDate="2014-03-24T17:24:36.407" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new cars has a lot of electronic devices and computers. As I like to maintain my family's cars I would like to know if I don't need to plug any OBD2 or computer after assemble or fix the cars.&#xA;I'm not a mechanic man, I just fix what I can. But sometimes I am afraid about dissemble and assemble something that later will need to plug a computer and configure something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T11:16:32.290" Title="Is there something that will need to configure with OBD2 or computer if I dissemble?" Tags="|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36257" CreationDate="2014-03-24T18:05:25.597" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the air intake spraying a &lt;strong&gt;Sonax liquid air intake cleaner&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;I took off the air filter, sprayed, waited to get dry and started the engine. It works well in my car that I think it was clean before because it has 20.000 km (around 12500 miles). I did the same process later in a friend's car, but the engine didn't start quickly. I needed to push the accelerator pedal for some seconds while trying to start the engine.&#xA;Why it didn't started instantly? Maybe the liquid didn't complete dry? Maybe the intake was too dirty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T01:04:02.513" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T01:04:02.513" Title="Using Air Intake Cleaners" Tags="|maintenance|cleaning|air-intake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9136" CreationDate="2014-03-24T19:03:13.267" Score="4" ViewCount="45903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Kia Sportage that was being driven only once a week or so for a couple of months, then it sat for a whole month without being driven. The dashboard brake light had been coming on momentarily when coming to a stop at stop lights. I didn't know what it meant at the time (but now know that was an indication that the brake fluid was getting low). When I went to drive it after it had sat for a month, the brake pedal would go to the floor and give almost no braking action. When I realized that the brake fluid was below the &quot;min&quot; line, I added some brake fluid to bring the level between &quot;min&quot; and &quot;max&quot;, took it for a test drive, but still no improvement. I then visually inspected the brake lines from the master cylinder back to each wheel but didn't notice any obvious signs of leakage. So I bled the lines (only did the rear 2 wheels...front two wheels had bleeder screws stuck) and it turns out there was quite a bit of air in the lines. The brake pedal regained its firmness after that so I decided to take it for a test drive. The only weird thing was that when I put the car in reverse, it felt like the brakes were seized somewhere and the car wouldn't go backwards. I let off the gas, and heard a clicking sound like something released. The car then reversed properly, and I took it for a 10-minute test drive around town and everything seemed good with the brakes again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple days later I go to test drive it again, and the sticking-brakes thing happened again. I put it in reverse, brakes seemed like they were locked up somewhere, let off the gas, heard a click (sounded like it came from rear passenger side wheel?), and then everything seemed normal again. I drove up the street, pulled into a parking spot, backed up with no problem this time, and returned. I decided to go for a second lap, had no problem backing up again, but after getting down the street and pulling into another parking space to back up and turn around, this time the car wouldn't go in reverse at all. It would let me creep forward (brakes dragging), but in reverse it was hard-locked-up. After trying forward-reverse about 10 times, something finally released and I was able to back up and return to my parking spot (no sign of brakes dragging or any other problems on the return drive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rear-wheel-drive car with front discs and rear drums (manual transmission). There is a possibility that the brake fluid is very slightly overfilled as I had topped it up to just above (or right at) the &quot;max&quot; fluid line in the master cylinder reservoir while I was bleeding the system (this was because I was moving to the right front wheel to bleed it down, but couldn't loosen that bleeder screw, so never got to bleed the front lines...since the fluid looked like it was right at the &quot;max&quot; line, I just left it without draining any off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most likely source of the problem? What should I check or try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE (4/9/2014)&#xA;I pulled the rear wheels and opened up the drums to look around. There was &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; some fluid leakage inside the rear passenger side drum, but it wasn't conclusive. Unfortunately, I made a beginner's mistake and stepped on the brake pedal while the drums were off which pushed the piston out of the rear driver's side cylinder and sprayed brake fluid everywhere. So I ended up replacing both rear wheel cylinders re-bleeding the brakes (rear wheels only...front bleeder screws still stuck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it for a test drive, and although it wasn't locking up in reverse, it would give a noticeable click as soon as the car started moving backwards. This time I didn't have the kids in the car so it was much quieter, and it seems to me like the clicking noise is coming from the front passenger side wheel (I did the forward-backward thing about 20 times to try to be sure). I also drove around the neighborhood with the windows down, and it seems like I'm getting a faint but noticeable scraping sound about once a wheel revolution from that same front passenger side wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what to try next when I pull the front wheel off? Should I take the effort to get the front bleeder screws unstuck so I can bleed the front wheels? Is it possible I have a sticking front caliper, and if so, what should I do or check for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE (4/28/2014)&#xA;So after the 4/9/2014 update where I thought the problem had stopped, it started happening again and the brakes would be locked up when trying to back the car up. There wasn't anything wrong with the front wheel after all. The problem was in the rear passenger side drum brakes. James' answer (below) was exactly right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had noticed that when I parked the car, the longer it sat, the harder it would be locked up when I tried to back it up the next time. If I only let it sit for a couple of hours, I could back the car up, but it would &quot;stick&quot; a bit then make the loud click before moving backwards. If I let it sit for 4-5 hours, it would stick a bit harder, but would still release with a loud click when backing up. If I let it sit overnight or for a couple of days, it would be completely stuck, and would only free up if I rocked the car back and forwards a number of times. I tested by leaving it parked overnight without the hand brake engaged (manual transmission), and sure enough, in the morning nothing was stuck and I could back up with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened everything up again and noticed that the backing plate on the rear passenger side did have a fair amount of rust in parts, but the part I should have noticed earlier was that the three contact points where the brake shoes rest against the backing plate all had grooves etched in them that were the exact shape of the metal on the shoes. So the brake shoes were coming to rest in these little grooves. Not only that, but these grooves were rusty too, so the longer the shoes would sit stationary in those grooves, the more the corrosion would cause everything to hang up and stick together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't get the backing plates off without a special Kia tool, so I just reconditioned them by sanding off all the corrosion with sandpaper, paying special attention to the contact points and the grooves that had been etched in them. Once I got a smooth surface again, I repainted the backing plate with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;high temperature auto paint&lt;/a&gt;, let everything thoroughly dry, and reassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car backs up perfectly smoothly now and I don't even get the clicking sound anymore, even when the car sits overnight. I'm pretty sure the clicking sound was the sound of the brake shoes &quot;popping out&quot; of the grooves that were etched into the backing plate by the shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4740" LastEditorUserId="4740" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T13:53:07.243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T19:28:34.960" Title="Brakes locking up when backing up" Tags="|brakes|kia|sportage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9135" CreationDate="2014-03-24T19:16:16.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like your car may have drum brakes as an option.  If so and if you left the parking brake on while it was parked corrosion may have caused one of the pads to freeze partly in place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the rear brake drums and see if everything is moving as it should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="4694" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T13:13:57.277" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T13:13:57.277" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-24T20:05:20.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai Tucson Diesel 2.0 2008 and takes at least 4-5 attempts to start before it idles badly for about 10 seconds and then is fine. Doesn't die at the traffic lights, no problems at all otherwise. Just starts badly. Could it be the Cam sensor? Fuel pump? Throttle position sensor?  All help taken!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4741" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T15:13:41.540" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:13:41.540" Title="Hyundai Tucson Diesel 2.0 2008 - Difficulty Starting" Tags="|engine|starting|diesel|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9137" CreationDate="2014-03-24T20:57:35.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your glow plugs are on their way out or you are not letting them get up to temperature prior to starting the engine. Once the engine is running, it warms up and it's fine. You stop at a light and all is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T20:57:35.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9132" CreationDate="2014-03-25T11:16:32.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct, you do not need to adjust the computer after maintenance/repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might run rough for the first few trips while the computer re-adapts. Also, some cars will show a warning for things like &quot;oil service due&quot; if you do not tell the computer that this has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T11:16:32.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9130" CreationDate="2014-03-25T11:20:07.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were there any other repairs/maintenance done prior just before the problem started? If not, it sounds like the wrong thermostat has been installed, or the new one is faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What caused you to change the thermostat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T11:20:07.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6154" CreationDate="2014-03-25T11:34:35.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This wikipedia page explains model naming conventions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_BMW_vehicles#Model_nomenclature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_BMW_vehicles#Model_nomenclature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T11:34:35.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-25T13:36:16.767" Score="2" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi A5 and I want to put genuine Audi 7-double-spoke alloys on it. The problem is as far as I know these alloys are only created in 20&quot; for the A5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it is possible to use either 18&quot; or 19&quot; alloys from an A3/A4/A6 on and A5? And if so what is needed (e.g. spacers) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastEditorUserId="2380" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T13:46:45.947" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T16:59:32.450" Title="A3/A4/A6 alloys on an A5" Tags="|tires|wheels|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9143" CreationDate="2014-03-25T13:56:19.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a listing of Audi wheel fitment I pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelfitment.net/audi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Model       Year        PCD     Offset      Bore&#xA;100         90 to 94    5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;200         90 to 94    5×112   40 to 45    57.1&#xA;80          92 to 95    4×108   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;90          92 to 95    4×108   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;A2          00 on       5×100   38 to 45    57.1&#xA;A3          96 to 03    5×100   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;A3          03 on       5×112   45 to 50    57.1&#xA;A4          95 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;A5          07 on       5×112   20 to 35    66.6&#xA;A6          95 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;A8          02 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;A8 S8       02 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;Allroad     00 to 06    5×112   15 to 25    57.1&#xA;Allroad     06 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;Cabriolet   92 on       4×108   35 to 38    57.1&#xA;Coupe       92 to 95    4×108   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;Q5          08 on       5×112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;Q7          06 on       5×130   45 to 55    71.5&#xA;RS4         01 on       5×112   20 to 30    57.1&#xA;RS6         02 on       5×112   35          57.1&#xA;S3          98 to 03    5×100   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;S3          03 on       5×112   42 to 50    57.1&#xA;S4          99 on       5X112   35 to 45    57.1&#xA;S6          94 on       5×112   35 to 40    57.1&#xA;S8          01 on       5×112   20 to 30    57.1&#xA;TT          99 to 06    5×100   25 to 45    57.1&#xA;TT          06 on       5×112   42 to 50    57.1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe all sizes are in millimeters. Looking at the list, it looks as though the A5 is a strange bird. The bore size is much larger (almost 10mm). The offset is quite different as well, though the bolt pattern is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I just re-read what I had written and realized a spacer will not work. It would work the other way if you were putting an A5 wheel on one of the others, but not the other way around. The offset may not be an issue, but the bore size &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be an issue. There is no way without machining to put the 57.1mm bore on the 66.6mm bore of the A5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T15:15:55.073" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:15:55.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9130" CreationDate="2014-03-25T14:31:50.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check if the coolant liquid is between minimum and maximum. If you need to add more liquid, don't mix different liquids colours (I don't remember why). And please be sure it's not hot, else you will get very bad &lt;strong&gt;burns and injuries&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T14:31:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9105" CreationDate="2014-03-25T16:44:42.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Moved some comments down here as an answer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem you are going to have is that &quot;seat of the pants&quot; you are not going to be able to tell. It would be so subtle you wouldn't notice. The PCM will cause it to go in/out of lockup. The only way you'd be able to tell is by having a computer attached to your the car and see when the PCM gives the signal to the tranny for the lockup. One thing you have slightly wrong in your question is the lockup will disengage when the car &quot;needs a little boost&quot; ... it locks up to give better gas mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the TC locks up, it is very close to 1:1 already. When I say it's subtle, it's very subtle. I'm not sure of the programming, but would believe this is only going to happen in the final gear (if a 4 speed tranny, it will happen in 4th gear, etc). Also, your transmission will not catch up to the engine, your engine will slow down to your transmission, and then only by a couple hundred RPM at most. This is probably going to be your only indication that your TC has locked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T16:44:42.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9151" CreationDate="2014-03-25T21:47:52.103" Score="1" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lexus GS300. Couple weeks ago I sent it to a Toyota dealer for maintenance. In addition to regular maintenance, they said the brake needs change and so I agreed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This week I found something strange, after I park the car at garage, I hear some air squeezing sound, the sound is like air leaking from a balloon, but maybe a little bit lighter. I am not 100% positive, but I think the sound is from the tires. The sound lasts maybe half minute. The thing is I can hear it almost every day when I come home and park it at my garage at night. In the morning, I park the car at the parking lot, not sure if it is because the environment noise is loud, I do not hear it. I never notice this problem before on this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this is something worth a mechanic to check out? I do not notice any problem yet, but I am pretty dumb at car mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4748" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T10:03:11.377" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T10:03:11.377" Title="Lexus GS300 - Sound of air escaping" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9149" CreationDate="2014-03-25T21:49:02.840" Score="16" ViewCount="66974" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of conflicting information whether slotted or drilled rotors perform better than blank rotors. For a street car that will do the occasional track day, which type of rotor should I get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T00:51:37.777" Title="brake rotors- blank, slotted or drilled?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9148" CreationDate="2014-03-25T22:34:18.473" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you get slotted, but not drilled rotors. Regular rotors will work fine for typical track use. What is more important is the type of brake pad you purchase to go with your disks. The reason I suggest not getting drilled rotors is, they have a tendency to crack at the holes due to stress risers. They will not last as long as you'd like them to and will not give you much more performance than just the slotted ones will. The slotted rotors will provide space for allowing brake dust and such to be brought away from the pad, which keeps it clean and better intact with the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T13:21:51.370" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:21:51.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9147" CreationDate="2014-03-25T22:40:11.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running your defrost, this sound could very well be the refrigerant equalizing in the A/C system. For most cars in the US, when running your defroster, the A/C comes on to dry the air so your windshield will defog. It allows you to see quicker through your windshield as well as not allowing the moisture in your breath to freeze on the inside of the windshield if it is cold enough outside. What I've described is about the only thing which would make this sort of a noise short of a flat tire. If a tire was leaking loud enough for you to hear it, it would be flat. If you are not seeing any difference in the tire ride height, I really doubt you're having any problems there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T22:40:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9130" CreationDate="2014-03-26T04:18:35.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you had an air bubble trapped in the cooling system after changing the thermostat. Check the coolant level. &#xA;(Id also make sure the coolant temp sensor connector is hooked up, maybe it was left unplugged)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T04:18:35.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9167" CreationDate="2014-03-26T04:55:18.280" Score="3" ViewCount="2778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Camry, I've installed Bulldog RS90 remote starter about 5 months ago; and it worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago I started my car with a key, and could not shift the gear from &quot;Park&quot;. My dash was dead, windows didn't roll down, turn signals were not working; but headlights, break lights, dome light, and my stereo were just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to shift from &quot;Park&quot; by pressing &quot;shift lock release&quot; button (small button near the shifter covered with a plastic piece) and drove home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I parked the car overnight, next morning everything worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened again today, and I have no idea what's going on. I imagine it has something to do with the remote starter wiring; any suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on uninstalling the remote starter if I don't hear any other suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T06:02:57.367" Title="Electrical problems after auto start installation" Tags="|electrical|camry|remote-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9157" CreationDate="2014-03-26T05:23:36.960" Score="3" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;We live in the temperate Northern California foothills, and lo these many months ago, my wife took my father's 2001 Infinity up the Reno mountain pass without seeing (or checking) the dangerously low oil gauge. It overheated on the long climb up, engine died on the freeway, and had to get towed back home, and has rested there ever since. Perhaps a cracked block led to some kind oil fouling or leakage, regardless the engine ran completely dry of oil and is in all likelihood, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;completely toast&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is this:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Is it worth spending the money on a junkyard engine to get this sucker back up and running? Or is this too old and asking for more trouble, not to mention the overhead for Infiniti specific parts, and any work to have a shop do it. Sounds like about $2,500 total... which is somewhat hilarious as that's exactly what KBB says the resale value of the vehicle would be in &quot;fair&quot; condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR I could somehow find the time and tools, buy an engine off ebay, and manhandle the old one out, and somehow get the new one in. For an inexperienced garage tinkerer the latter sounds both fun and frightening. Not to mention the learning curve is sharp, and I'm not sure I trust myself with something so important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is less of a technical question, and more one of economics and experience. Thanks in advance of any wisdom you fine folks can impart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4750" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T10:16:34.997" Title="Seized engine on 13 yo Infiniti, out to pasture for 1 yr. Donate for scrap or worth a revisit?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9154" CreationDate="2014-03-26T08:02:50.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never even consider buying a new engine and get it installed if the price of the engine was even remotely close to the resale value of a working car of the same model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4752" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T08:02:50.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5810" CreationDate="2014-03-26T08:41:32.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Audi Qauttro's have a driveshaft that connects the front differential with the rear differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car does not have 4wd if it does not have a driveshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my country (Denmark) you can add the car to your profile at &lt;a href=&quot;https://my.audi.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://my.audi.com&lt;/a&gt; and add the VIN of the car. Then you can see all information about the car including factory installed options etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4752" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T08:41:32.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9154" CreationDate="2014-03-26T10:16:34.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably you have already bought a replacement car, given that you left that one standing for a year - so you aren't relying on the Infiniti for anything - and it is currently effectively worthless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, it wouldn't be worth the cost of getting a replacement engine professionally fitted - as well as the cost of finding and replacing the engine, you're also going to probably have other problems as a result of it sitting for that time unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you wanted to use it as an excuse to learn more about home maintenance, it sounds like an ideal opportunity - the car with no engine would be worth about the same as it currently is, so if you get fed up, you've not lost much, other than the cost of any tools you've needed to buy... Replacing an engine isn't actually that hard a job, the worst bit is usually getting the electrics to behave - you'll need to check with someone who knows about that particular model to see whether you need the ecu that goes with the replacement engine or the one that goes with the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need an engine crane to lift the engines (these can often be rented by the day), and of couse a secondhand engine - as you mention, a scrapyard or ebay is the best source, plus all the usual tools - spanners/wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers etc, a lot of patience, and a workshop manual...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T10:16:34.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9161" CreationDate="2014-03-26T13:19:00.980" Score="14" ViewCount="229878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen photographs of cars with strange inclined tires like the one in the picture I pasted here. They seems to be Japanese cars. Is it for drifting? Maybe for appearance?  Do the tires get injuries?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vR2OF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastEditorUserId="22441" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T11:13:58.460" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T14:15:35.867" Title="Why do some tuned cars have very inclined tires?" Tags="|tires|wheels|modification|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2014-03-26T13:57:56.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is entirely for style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;camber&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires will wear in an odd manner. The tire contact with the road is usually a rectangle on the bottom of the tire. This extreme camber makes the contact patch very small and near the inside edge of the tire. This does significantly reduce grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2677" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T13:57:56.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2014-03-26T14:45:14.753" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this specific example the car is more than likely using airbags.  When you decrease or increase the height of a car it affects the tire alignment by usually causing positive camber, pushing the top of the tires outward, this is a highly modified suspension system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular person has modified their suspension so the top of the tires tuck in when the airbags deflate so they don't hit the fender well.  Which not possible with a dual wishbone configuration, so more than likely its a basic strut assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people will adjust their cars for negative camber, this way during hard cornering when the tire deforms on the vertical axis you get the largest amount of rubber on the road.  Most tuners overdo this past performance and into the realm of looking good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastEditorUserId="673" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T01:02:14.393" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T01:02:14.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5810" CreationDate="2014-03-26T14:56:41.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check under the rear of the car you should be able to see the rear differential. it is the aluminium finned item between the rear wheels &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0B6Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A5 Quattro&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have on then you definitely don't have a quattro, you should also check the VIN to make sure. The driveshaft it self is kinda hard to see depending on the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car was sold to you as a quattro and it isn't then you definitely need to take it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T14:56:41.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2014-03-26T14:58:32.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question assumes that the car is a drivable configuration, which may not be true. This car and similar photos you have seen probably have &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Height_adjustable_suspension&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Height adjustable suspension&lt;/a&gt; this allows the ride height of the car to be changed on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood the frame of the car pictured is sitting on the ground. The suspension has been lowered (or tires raised) through a powered operator controlled method, until the tires are no longer supporting the car. There are several variables, but as you can see in the question image, the tires on the vehicle will not clear the body panels without being tipped in for the current ride height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively @Freiheit has a good explanation also.  A search for images on Google finds some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtspirit.com/2010/04/23/overkill-tuned-vip-car-off-camber/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;images of vehicles&lt;/a&gt; that appear to be moving with similar extreme camber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T14:58:32.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2014-03-26T15:00:54.550" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tilt of the wheel is known as the camber angle.  Tilting the wheel in that manner is called negative camber.  Doing it the other way around (top outwards) is positive camber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting the wheel with a negative camber improves grip under hard cornering as it counteracts rolling.  On a completely level tire (0 camber), when a horizontal force is applied to the rubber, it rolls, causing the inner edge of the contact patch on the outer wheel (and the outer edge on the inner wheel) to lift, reducing the size of the contact patch, and subsequently grip.  By tilting the tire inwards, this is counteracted, but at the cost of a reduced contact patch when driving in a straight line.  It's a tradeoff and requires careful modelling and testing to determine the optimal camber angle for a given vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some F1 cars utilize variable camber systems, allowing the camber angle to be adjusted on the fly, giving ~0 camber on the straights and proper amounts (again, determined by careful modelling and testing) of positive/negative camber when turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That extreme amount of camber on the car you showed is purely stylistic and would be horrible for both tire wear and handling, but lesser amounts of camber are common.  For example, the negative camber angle is plainly visible on the wheels of this Ferrari F1 car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMHEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of a Ferrari F1 car displaying negative camber&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're only turning in one direction (i.e. oval racing), you can further optimize by applying both positive and negative camber to the inner and outer wheels respectively, countering the rolling on both wheels, giving you maximum grip when cornering.  This is pretty much seen in NASCAR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGzYJ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Image displaying positive and negative camber on a NASCAR car&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T14:15:35.867" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T14:15:35.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9153" CreationDate="2014-03-27T06:02:57.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've uninstalled the remote starter, and everything works fine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've narrowed it down to a faultly T-Harness that came with the starter. I guess some of the connections got loose or shorted out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T06:02:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8601" CreationDate="2014-03-27T10:09:43.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the side of the distributor,youll find a little modem.This can also be a problem and need to be replaced every 30,000 ks to be on the safe side.I did not know some Unos came out with points very interresting. One of the most reliable cars really fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4764" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T10:09:43.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9252" CreationDate="2014-03-27T10:28:13.230" Score="3" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Citroen C4 1.6 VTR+ (5 doors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to change the brake discs and pads so I ordered those parts from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. I took them to a garage to get them fit, but they told me the parts are not correct; they are too big. I contacted the website and they will exchange them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first, I need to know how to know exactly the parts for my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The details of the (incorrect) brake discs:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness [mm]: 26,0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type: Internally Vented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centering Diameter [mm]: 66&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter [mm]: 283&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height [mm]: 34&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole Arrangement / Number: 04 / 06&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum Thickness [mm]: 24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch Circle Ø [mm]: 108&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thickness [mm]: 9,0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type: Full&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centering Diameter [mm]: 71&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter [mm]: 246,5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height [mm]: 35&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole Arrangement / Number: 04 / 06&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum Thickness [mm]: 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch Circle Ø [mm]: 108&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What are the correct brake pads and discs?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:05:24.817" Title="What brake pads and discs for my 2006 Citroen C4 1.6 VTR+?" Tags="|brakes|part-identification|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T11:39:10.110" Score="4" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the power steering return hose on a Hyundai Santa Fe? Is there a diagram somewhere that shows how it is run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4765" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T19:58:33.010" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T19:58:33.010" Title="2001 Hyundai Santa Fe power steering leak" Tags="|hyundai|power-steering|power|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9180" CreationDate="2014-03-27T15:14:16.513" Score="6" ViewCount="11801" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every year I bring my car (now almost 3 years old) to the garage for a check up. When I bring it the people from the garage usually ask if I also want the extra air conditioner check and servicing. Until now I've declined, because the car was rather new and I didn't think it was necessary to spent 130 euros on something that should work anyways. But now the car's warranty period has elapsed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it really necessary to get your air conditioner checked and serviced every year (on a car of 3 years or older)? If not, any recommendations on how often this is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4766" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T11:11:17.070" Title="How often should you get your air conditioner checked and serviced?" Tags="|ac|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9172" CreationDate="2014-03-27T15:35:28.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting it checked every year, as part of the annual service. Serviced is another matter - whenever it needs to be serviced is the waffley answer, but it really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a 1997 car that had it's aircon serviced twice in it's lifetime (1997 - 2013), and a 2005 car that is serviced every two years as the pipes aren't great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T15:35:28.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9177" CreationDate="2014-03-27T19:41:28.373" Score="3" ViewCount="2802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with my 2001 Solara, and I would like to check out a few things myself before I have a mechanic spend lots of time diagnosing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is under load -- I press hard on the gas pedal, or the car is in cruise and goes uphill -- the engine spikes from cruising power to 4-5000 RPM.  As best as I can tell, the necessary load has dropped (the problem has gotten worse) over the past few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has about 130k miles; it's a manual transmission, and I'm due for an oil change anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:  The &lt;code&gt;check engine&lt;/code&gt; light has not lit up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4767" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T15:43:12.510" Title="Engine spikes to 5000 rpm when pressing on gas pedal or going uphill" Tags="|toyota|transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T19:41:30.633" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a car which has not been driven and stored inside a garage for several years. How do we fumigate and clean the interior? Part looks like it is leather and part vinyl since some areas have severe mildew (or mold?) and others are untouched. The smell is unbearable at this point. It is a 2004 Toyota Avalon LX and is in like new condition on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4768" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T00:37:53.850" Title="Cleaning interior of long stored car" Tags="|toyota|cleaning|interior|avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9174" CreationDate="2014-03-27T20:40:40.407" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the RPM rises without a corresponding change in velocity in a vehicle with a manual transmission you've got a slipping clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T20:40:40.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9174" CreationDate="2014-03-27T23:12:04.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;99% that your clutch is beginning to give out. If you get spikes like that under load, it basically means that your clutch plates aren't gripping together. Basically what is happening is that the engine can't grip the plate that moves the wheels, so I just slides along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a funky-terrible smell, that is your clutch burning. You will probably notice it happening soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if ODB or ODBII monitors clutch status, but either way, you are going to need it replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T23:12:04.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9175" CreationDate="2014-03-27T23:14:27.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had luck cleaning Mouldy Vinyl with scrubbing bubbles spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is also trashed, and has cheap vinyl inside, and I haven't had much luck cleaning it. Your best bet is to get the vinyl replaced, because it will likely crack or go brittle soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fabric goes, most supermarkets sell those powerful steam cleaning units, get one of those, and they work amazing for cars. It's good for cleaning out the unidentified human slime from seats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T23:14:27.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9175" CreationDate="2014-03-28T00:37:53.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not able to get it clean enough by cleaning, you can probably pick up a complete used interior of the same color and swap it out with yours. Considering what you are getting, it shouldn't be too expensive. There may be no other way to get the smell out of the car otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T00:37:53.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9172" CreationDate="2014-03-28T08:12:43.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I would not bother servicing it unless it is not performing as well any more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hardly a mission-critical feature and I can't see it causing consequential damage with its failure (unlike a timing belt, the oil system or the cooling system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T08:12:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9182" CreationDate="2014-03-28T14:42:25.397" Score="0" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2001 Honda S2000 (or any other car for that matter) does the intake manifold cover (plastic piece held on with two 10mm acorn nuts) actually protect against something, or is it purely aesthetic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T23:00:55.607" Title="What is the purpose of the intake manifold cover on a Honda S2000?" Tags="|honda|s2000|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-04-07T21:03:07.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9181" CreationDate="2014-03-28T14:42:25.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The intake manifold cover is purely cosmetic and can be removed without causing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T14:42:25.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T16:21:42.033" Score="2" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Chevy Astro Van.  Yesterday the radiator starting spewing a thick, black substance out the side of it.  It looks like old oil.  I had the oil changed 1 1/2 weeks ago.  The oil on the dipstick is clean and full.  It almost looks like someone poured old, dirty oil into the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4770" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T17:11:32.657" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T16:39:43.680" Title="2001 Chevy Astro- oil in the radiator" Tags="|chevrolet|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9261" CreationDate="2014-03-28T18:31:02.920" Score="5" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 98 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Magnum 360 V8 (roller cam shaft). It had a cracked head on one side, so I purchased a pair of remanned heads from an eBay retailer. These heads are the 466/671 combination (as expected). The problem is, the heads which I pulled off are an identical set (both 466 heads - this engine has had head work done before, obviously). I need to know which one goes on which side (driver's/passenger). I read on a couple of different sites which say they are identical, which I am doubting. The reason I am doubting is due to the fact everywhere I've looked, it specifies for different heads. (If they are exactly the same, or interchangeable, why would they make and specify two different heads??). I've seen one site (actually a seller) which actually specifies which head is supposed to go on which side, but it uses right/left. I have a major problem with this, as some people view right/left while standing in front of the car, while others use the view as sitting in the vehicle. Driver side and passenger side are much more descriptive. Also, if anyone knows what exactly the differences are, it would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:46:32.253" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T18:42:36.883" Title="Different heads on Dodge Magnum 360" Tags="|engine|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9187" CreationDate="2014-03-28T19:48:29.157" Score="1" ViewCount="3855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of purchasing an older Dodge Ram; the listing on craigslist says that the vehicle is in good condition but the heater core is busted.  I'm willing to go without heat/AC till I get around to fixing it but I'm concerned whether or not a malfunctioning/broken heater core would also be dangerous to drive due to overheating?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with how the heater core links to the rest of the cooling system to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T02:52:22.893" Title="Can you drive a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 when the heater core is bad?" Tags="|cooling-system|dodge|heater|ram|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9186" CreationDate="2014-03-28T20:41:26.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things which can be wrong (that I'm aware of) with the heater core. It can be plugged (not letting coolant through), or it can leak. If blocked, there's absolutely no issue. Drive without heat. If it leaks, you'll need to run your heater hoses in a loop, to bypass the heater core. Basically, you are taking one hose from one side (either intake or discharge) going to/from the pump and looping it back through to the other side. I your case (assuming a V8 318 or 360), one of the hoses connects at the water pump on the driver's side, while the other one connects at the intake manifold, just on the passengers side and behind the radiator hose. I would suggest you just get a piece of hose, other than your existing hoses and run it from one side to the other. This way you do not have to shorten or cut your existing hoses to make this happen. Once this is done, you shouldn't have any issues, other than the lack of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T20:41:26.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9186" CreationDate="2014-03-28T22:53:35.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the core has a hole, and leaks coolant, you most definitely cannot drive it. You will need to bypass the heater core entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if it is blocked, you still need to bypass the core. You don't want to stop the coolant from flowing, or you might as well not have it. This depends on how your core is hooked up though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do buy it, you should probably do a full flush of the cooling system, and get the radiator rebuilt or get a new one. If it is clogged or broken, you might as well get rid of any slime or debris, and you'll have to drain the coolant anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T22:53:35.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9184" CreationDate="2014-03-28T22:58:33.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever changed the coolant? Ot does get old. I havent heard of it turning black though. That is weird. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try draining your coolant and putting new stuff in. If it turns black, the inly thing I can think of is a cracked water jacket, but then you should be having oil that looks like a frappucino.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ahve seen purple coolant that turns kinda dark when it gets old. Is it thick like oil, or thin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T22:58:33.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9181" CreationDate="2014-03-28T23:00:55.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im not sure what you refer to, if you are talking about the cover on the airbox, where the air filter sits, it is to stop your engine from sucking in sludge and dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T23:00:55.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T23:07:07.840" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had low fuel pressure problems with my cdti. I took it to a garage and got the high pressure pump changed. After that it started no problem but after 15mins of it running, it started running lumpy and cutting out, so I got the computer on it again and the error that was cumming up was the fuel rail regualter and sensor. So I got them changed as well. The car still isn't running right and cutting out after a few minutes ticking over. Has anybody got an idea what it could be? Could dirty fuel or water in the fuel cause this???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T03:01:25.727" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T18:07:42.587" Title="vauxhall vectra cdti sri 150 running problems" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-13T18:57:38.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9193" CreationDate="2014-03-29T00:26:51.487" Score="3" ViewCount="2353" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit embarrassing.  Since I got the car I've found it hard to read the oil level.  The dipstick takes a turn as it enters the engine, and no matter how gently I pull the thing up, it seems that enough oil smears on the stick to make the reading unclear.  Note that with other cars I have had no trouble reading the oil level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this car I stare at the stick, and have no idea what the level is.  Once a garage overfilled it, that was easy to detect.  Now I suspect it's low.  Even if I clean the stick with a towel, and cycle it, oil ends up above the true level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: for a VW, with a dipstick that curves into the engine, what's the best technique to accurately read the oil level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAMSJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastEditorUserId="3679" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T06:48:12.923" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T01:18:04.990" Title="Trouble reading oil level, 2007 VW Rabbit" Tags="|vw|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9192" CreationDate="2014-03-29T02:59:50.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all vehicles, ensure the vehicle is shut off and on level ground when doing your reading. Next, with rag in hand, pull the dipstick and clean the tip of the dipstick with the rag. Next, re-stick your dipstick and pull it out again. Check the level of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your dipstick, you are looking for oil between the two ends where you see the crosshatching in the center. The dipstick is made to catch oil in this area so you can detect the level. Specifically, you are looking to see if there is oil in the bottom groove (where the crosshatched area meets the tip). It is designed to easily trap oil in this area. Next, look up the crosshatch area to see that the level is somewhere between the bottom groove and the top groove, and not beyond. The crosshatch pattern will capture oil so you can more easily detect its position. I have personally found it easiest to rotate the dipstick back and forth until you can see the reflective sheen of the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case it appears the oil is just touching the lower tip of the dip stick and is not even up to the &quot;safe&quot; zone. You need to add oil, a little at a time, until the oil is seen in the area between the two grooves. What I mean by &quot;a little&quot; is less than 1/4 of a quart (or litre if in a metric country). Most bottles of oil have a sight window to see how much is left in the bottle. If you don't get it up to the safe zone on the first try, put another 1/4 of the quart in. When you are checking the oil between pours, be sure to clean the dipstick off, re-stick it, then pull it out for the read. You don't know if the oil drains down the dipstick on its way to the pan, so this is a good idea to ensure a good reading.  Also, be sure you are following your vehicle manufacturer's recommendation for weight of oil. If you know what brand and weight of oil was used at the last oil change, it's a good idea to use that brand as well. If your VW has a turbo engine, it is very important to keep your oil up to level, as a lack of oil will cause premature bearing failure in vital turbo parts. If this doesn't get you the info you need, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T01:18:04.990" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T01:18:04.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2014-03-29T08:37:32.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking a look at the quality of the oil filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil filter doesn't, strictly speaking, tell anything about the quality of the oil, but it does say something about the people/company who changed your oil. If they used a high-quality filter, then it's more likely that they used a high quality oil. Similarly, if they used a low-quality filter, it's more likely that they used a low-quality oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take out the filter and it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4ojd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Low-quality filter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or worse, looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRnzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil filter falling apart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then I really think it's safe to assume that they didn't use high-quality oil either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is one of the reasons why I chose to do oil changes myself. You know which oil goes in, you know which oil filter goes in, and you know that you've properly replaced the O-ring and the crush washer, which many shops seem to forget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T08:37:32.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T09:17:49.557" Score="4" ViewCount="11732" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oil drain valve is a device that replaces your regular drain bolt and makes an oil change a much cleaner job. When it's time for an oil change, you simply attach a hose to the oil drain valve, open the valve and everything drains cleanly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJpqA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil draining with an oil drain valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaaT5a13xY8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaaT5a13xY8&lt;/a&gt; (note: I am in no way affiliated with this brand or anything. It's just a good demonstration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, for a professional, it probably doesn't really matter that much, but for an amateur just maintaining their own car, it's quite a handy tool. You don't really need to jack up your car anymore, you can't overthread (no need for a torque wrench) and everything is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple: why aren't these more commonly used? It doesn't look particularly expensive, and it makes the job a whole lot easier. Are there any disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T23:23:06.950" Title="Why aren't oil drain valves more commonly used?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9195" CreationDate="2014-03-29T11:04:12.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This vehicle in your example photo is a really good example for when not to use an oil drain valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the heavy lugs on the all terrain tires?  I am not sure if this vehicle is 4 wheel drive, but the tires indicate it the owner plans on driving on other than smooth paved highways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drain valve on an off road vehicle, is an invitation for a long walk home...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture this you are miles from the nearest paved road, no cell service and a rock, branch or other item comes in contact with that drain valve... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IVHZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rick stuck&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really lucky it will only break the valve and all your oil will run out on the ground. Best case, you planned for this, you have the oil plug and 5 quarts of oil with you, plus a buddy with a winch to pull you out (&lt;em&gt;hopefully you don't try and drive out, without oil&lt;/em&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because you have a strong valve connected to a sheetmetal oil pan, it will tear out; either stripping the threads or tearing the oil pan.  In either case even if you have the old oil plug and lots of oil, you are still not driving home until you install a new oil pan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a highway car, there is not enough ground clearance to get the oil catch container under the car, so you have to put it up on ramps or jack stands anyhow to change the oil.  This also put the drain valve closer to the ground, and at risk from speed bumps, potholes and such.  You will probably be close enough to cell phone tower to call a tow truck.  Unless of course you don't notice and drive the car without oil until it stops running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T11:04:12.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:14:24.487" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought a Honda CRV 2014 in January.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are supposed to get 23 mpg but are only seeing 15 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We run it in eco mode and dont drive fast at all. So why are we getting such low mpgs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? Is this case for lemon law? I live in PA (if that helps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T19:05:28.083" Title="CRV 2014 mpg issues" Tags="|honda|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9148" CreationDate="2014-03-29T18:45:28.843" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Contact area&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blank rotors have a larger area in contact with the pads than slotted or drilled rotors. Therefore they provide better braking at the same temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cooling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cool the rotor, manufacturers use a vented rotor, not a cross-drilled or slotted rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cross-drilling puts holes perpendicular to the flow of air - they have no cooling effect whilst the wheel is turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cross-drilled or slotted rotor has less thermal mass and thus heats up faster and fades faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dust removal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as I know, with modern rotor and pad materials, dust removal is not a significant factor affecting brake performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Gas Removal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find no scientific evidence that the resin in overheated pads outgasses faster than gas is removed by rotation. (e.g. see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtremeimportperformance.com/tech-page/cross-drilled-rotors-myth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cross-drilled rotors myth&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is used by people for whom performance is more important than looks?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Track&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why do all those high dollar cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche have drilled rotors? Well, because people think it looks cool. The rotors on those cars fail when pushed hard as well, and the professional race teams that run these cars replace them with non-drilled rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Milmont, Club racer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;F1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXAYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from formula1.com&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;The brake rotor on an F1 racing car is not cross-drilled nor slotted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aircraft&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Atz9d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This undrilled, unslotted brake rotor stops a 100-ton vehicle from 185 MPH in 2500 feet of tarmac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtXdY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtXdY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T12:14:26.763" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23872" CreationDate="2014-03-29T19:32:51.020" Score="11" ViewCount="5255" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 GSXR 750 has been stood for over 12 months, I have drained the tank, and oil, and I'll do the coolant after I get it started, and give it another oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth me removing the plugs and turning it over by hand a few times, before I attempt to start it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it worth me replacing the fuel filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. the bike has been dry stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4775" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T18:44:22.923" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T01:52:36.537" Title="Motorcycle stood for over 12 months, turn over by hand first?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|gsxr|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9204" CreationDate="2014-03-29T21:26:59.143" Score="1" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord. The back right lamp enclosure is cracked. Moisture gets in there sometimes and I have to replace the bulbs from time to time. I'm sure it'll be more cost efficient to replace it myself but I've never done anything like this. How would I go about doing this? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T09:55:21.627" Title="I want to replace the back light enclosure of my Honda Accord, how difficult would that be?" Tags="|honda|replace|accord|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9199" CreationDate="2014-03-30T01:15:28.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; to both of your questions. If you have some ATF (Dexron or whatever) sitting around, squirt a &quot;bit&quot; into each cylinder through the spark plug hole before you do this. You don't want to drop a whole bunch in there, but enough to wet the rings (a couple of squirts from an oil can or the like should be sufficient). This will create a small amount of white smoke when you first start the engine, but nothing to worry about as it will clear fairly quickly. Let the ATF sit in the cylinder for several minutes, then rotate the crank through several cycles (8-10 revolutions). You should be golden from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fuel filter, the reason I say change it is because it won't hurt anything to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T01:15:28.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9218" CreationDate="2014-03-30T05:43:01.950" Score="10" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was taking the battery out of my bike (99 Honda Shadow 750 ACE) to ship it this past December, when two parts of the bike I'd never seen fell out from somewhere near the battery case. They sort of look like hair curlers and I suspect maybe they were wrapped around the battery cables? (See the photo) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11993667/20140329_143640.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guesses as to what they might be are appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4776" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:54:08.407" Title="Unknown part fell out of my motorcycle" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9202" CreationDate="2014-03-30T09:39:16.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that they are a spacer or shim to prevent the battery from sliding back and forth in the battery box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T09:39:16.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9200" CreationDate="2014-03-30T09:55:21.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look in the trunk near the taillight you will find some plastic screws that hold the carpet in place. Using a flat head screwdriver remove them by unscrewing them or prying them out. Moving the carpet should reveal the mounting bolts for the taillight. It will most likely require a 10mm deep socket to remove the nuts. Disconnect the lamp sockets from the light assembly. Reverse the process to install the new lamp. As a note you do not need to go to the dealer for this part. The least expensive may be a used assembly from a junkyard or auto recycle center,  most likely available in a day or two. More expensive but still less than the dealer is your local auto parts store, it will most likely need to be ordered and take a few days to arrive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T09:55:21.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9206" CreationDate="2014-03-30T10:34:25.627" Score="4" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Henry Ford was essentially the father of the mass production car.  When was the pickup truck invented? Who created the first mass production pickup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-03-25T13:01:58.123" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T13:01:58.123" Title="What was the first mass production pickup?" Tags="|truck|pick-up|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9205" CreationDate="2014-03-30T14:06:28.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some information from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetruckersreport.com/trucking-timeline-vintage-and-antique-truck-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trucker Report&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gottlieb Daimler invented “vehicle no. 42” in 1896. Many truck enthusiasts cite “vehicle no. 42,” a horseless wagon, as the first truck. Daimler’s invention had a 4 horsepower, 1.1 liter, 2 cylinder engine that supposedly hauled 3,300 pounds. Skeptics believe that Daimler over-exaggerated the payload potential of “vehicle no. 42.” Daimler invented a 10-horsepower truck that boasted a top speed of 7.5 miles per hour. These lackluster results rarely convinced businessmen, farmers, and ranchers to turn over their draft horses and wagon for a pickup truck. The earliest factory-built models entered the market during the early 1900s, including the King, Reo, Autocar, and the 20-horsepower Auto Wagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the introduction of mass-produced automobiles, people started to modify their vehicles for enhanced utility. These people stripped off the rear bodywork and mounted open-topped boxes that resembled the first step towards the modern pickup truck. Ford Motor Company capitalized on this concept with the Model-T by offering consumers the choice to add-on a bed. Ford started selling the complete factory-built Model-T Runabout with Pickup Body in 1925. In 1928, Ford introduced the Model-A, a robust alternative to the Model-T pickup truck. The Model-A pickup truck featured luxuries never seen before, such as an all steel cab and roll up windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears good ole Henry Ford had this locked up as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T14:06:28.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9209" CreationDate="2014-03-30T20:16:43.490" Score="2" ViewCount="12242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed the oil a couple of days ago, and I've noticed that the low oil pressure light stays on longer than normal. Normally, it goes out almost immediately (&amp;lt;1s) after starting the engine, while it sometimes takes up to 4 seconds now after the oil change. This only happens during a 'cold start', not when the oil is already warmed up (then it goes out immediately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil level is fine and stable, there are no leaks, and the oil is a high quality 5w30 oil that is specifically recommended for the car; the oil viscosity is identical or nearly identical, I believe, to the previous oil (it was either 5w30 or 5w40). The oil filter I used was a high quality Bosch filter. The car works perfectly. Again; this only happens during a cold start; &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; during a 'warm start' when the engine oil is already warmed up, nor during driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's a big deal, but I would like to understand why this is happening. I pretty much rule out a malfunctioning oil pressure sensor, since it only started happening after the oil change. Oil viscosity also seems to be okay, oil levels are fine, the oil and filter quality are both okay,... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about the clean oil being thinner than the dirty oil causing this rather subtle issue, but I have no idea whether this is true, let alone whether this can cause such a warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T22:07:56.830" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T20:59:24.987" Title="Oil pressure warning light stays on longer after oil change in BMW 320d E46" Tags="|oil|bmw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9210" CreationDate="2014-03-30T20:27:25.307" Score="3" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know which operations or functions does the car do when I turn the key to On position (the key position before starting the engine) in gas engine and in diesel engine.&#xA; For example, in a diesel engine I know that the engine got warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T05:22:42.833" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T05:22:42.833" Title="Which operations are done when key is turned to On position?" Tags="|engine|ignition|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2014-03-30T20:57:48.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are getting drain back. When your engine sits without running for a period of time, most all of the oil in the oil passages drains back into the crank case. When you restart your engine, the oil has to be brought from the pan back up into the oil passages, then you see your oil pressure raise. Since I don't know which year your BMW is, I cannot tell you if there is an oil filter for your car which has an &lt;strong&gt;anti-drain back&lt;/strong&gt; feature. If so, this will ensure oil stays in the oil passages and you'll see oil pressure right off the bat, or at least within the second you are accustomed to. If you recent changed which type of filter you use, you may want to go back to that style/brand of filter (&lt;strong&gt;unless that filter is a Fram filter&lt;/strong&gt; --- plenty of stuff out there on it, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.d-series.org/forums/product-reviews/100574-truth-about-fram-other-filters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a good example&lt;/a&gt; with pictures of exactly what I'm talking about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T20:57:48.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9208" CreationDate="2014-03-30T21:36:45.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This varies a lot by model, era etc., but a general overview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that happens is the ancilliary electrical systems are powered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio (often the radio will be permanently wired, but this varies)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windscreen wipers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dashboard gauges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything that runs off switched ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but also the Engine control unit, or ECU, which is what controls the engine (spark timing, fuel flow, airflow etc) so that it is ready to start the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these are then switched off when the starter motor is engaged, just to reduce the load on the battery, as the starter motor is the largest current draw in your entire car, but once the engine is running and the key is released it moves back to the on position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a petrol engine there is no need to preheat the cylinders like you have in a diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T21:36:45.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9216" CreationDate="2014-03-31T02:27:18.753" Score="3" ViewCount="11700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving my 2003 Toyota Camry LE today (while it was snowing) and I had my windshield wipers going at full. All of a sudden the windshield wipers stopped in the middle of a wipe and it started making a noise. After I stopped, I forced the windshield wipers back down (I pushed them down a bit while the car was on and it automatically pushed them down). When they're stuck they can go back up but stop trying to go back down. I'm wondering what the problem might be? Could it be the motor has gone on it? Or, could it be from the snow or from having it on full blast? Also, if it is the motor, can someone elaborate on where the motor is located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; After a few hours, I finally got the windshield wiper motor replaced and now it works no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4304" LastEditorUserId="4304" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T02:20:36.330" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T02:20:36.330" Title="Windshield wipers stop and motor makes noise" Tags="|toyota|windshield-wipers|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9148" CreationDate="2014-03-31T10:01:03.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blank rotors provide the best braking during regular operation. Slotted rotors are such because they improve performance during heavy and prolonged braking. If it were my car, I'd rather spend the money on high-heat racing pads and race-grade brake fluid (which boils at a much higher temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to consider are steel braided hoses and modifications to your front bumper to allow lots and lots (and lots!) of extra air to flow over your brakes to keep them cool. If you hate your car's looks enough, you could also modify the rear body panels for the same purpose. This is usually accomplished in conjunction with light alloy wheels with the thinnest spokes possible. And remember: trail-braking and heal-and-toe are your friends. Trail-braking allows you to let up off full braking earlier and heal-and-toe shifting allows the engine to slow you down a bit, while also putting you in the right gear for corner exit. These two techniques combined will simultaneously be better for your brakes AND improve your lap times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T15:48:32.333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T15:48:32.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9211" CreationDate="2014-03-31T10:36:29.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can often happen when wipers meet an obstruction (which could be thick snow getting packed hard) is that the linkage from the motor to the wipers can bend or slip. This is the most likely problem here, although when you forced the wipers down you may have caused further damage or bent the linkages further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't a diagram of the Camry wipers, but it is straightforward to identify the links from wipers to wiper motors to find out if they are bent or twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T10:36:29.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9211" CreationDate="2014-03-31T11:46:24.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me that the gear(s) in the motor are partially stripped. When the wipers go up, it hits the place where the teeth are gone. When you pushed it back down manually, it caught a place where the teeth are still present and brought them back down. The only way you can check this is by extracting the motor and pulling the gears apart to check. Any way you look at it, the problem most likely resides with the motor. Linkages go bad, but usually this occurs at the joints where sacrificial grommets wear out and the ends pop off (no wiper action at all and you can physically move either one or both of the wipers by hand) or leave a lot of slop in the wipers (lots of clunking going on, but the wipers still go back and forth). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at a video on YouTube, but could not discern where the motor is accessible at, though it should be on the driver's side of the vehicle at the base of the windshield. I would either be under the cowling (plastic piece which the base of the wipers goes through) or through the engine compartment via an access panel. (I will look and update this evening at my mo-in-law's car, as she owns one which I believe is the same year as yours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T11:46:24.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2014-03-31T12:19:33.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually have a look at youtube. There is probably a video of a guy doing exactly what you are planning to do and he will show you what you need and how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, get your hands on a Haynes manual for your car (if available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, as a question on a forum dedicated to your specific car brand, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://astraownersclub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://astraownersclub.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T12:19:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9202" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:54:08.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are definitely devices for holding hair in place. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iAUaV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what purpose (if any) they were serving in your motorcycle, one can only guess!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:54:08.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:56:18.523" Score="1" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why the antenna on the Mazda5 is not centered on the back of the vehicle?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVwve.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T00:28:26.340" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T10:35:37.877" Title="Why is the antenna on the Mazda5 off-center?" Tags="|mazda|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9219" CreationDate="2014-04-01T10:35:37.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not found anything definitive (only speculation on forums), but it appears the reason they offset the antenna is so it is more easily accessible for removal (such as when going through an automated car wash). If you look at this picture, you can see how far forward it is from the back of the car. Reaching up from the back to remove it could prove daunting. Looking at it, you can see that there was no way to move it back as it would interfere with the operation of the lift gate, so moving it to one side seems logical for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKTME.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of a Mazda5 from Mazda website&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T10:35:37.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-01T21:37:26.273" Score="5" ViewCount="4494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a car expert so I don't know if I'm being alarmist or not but this problem just started happening the past week and seems to be getting worse fast.  Hopefully the terms I'm using is helpful in describing my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have a 2005 Honda Accord LX with automatic transmission and 170k miles.  The car has been good to me thus far and I've brought the car in every 10k to the dealership as the manual said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is parked in a garage and I live in California so the temperatures aren't extremely cold in the morning.  Normally, when I start my car cold in the morning, the idling RPMs will be about 1500rpm.  After about 1-2 min of warming up, it drops to about 800-900 and drive from pt A to pt B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem just started 1 wk ago.  What happens is on a cold start, the rpms are unusually low (about 400-500 rpms).  I waited a few minutes but the rpms didn't go back up.  This has happened 3 times the last 7 days.  Luckily, I've been able to drive to my destinations without problems (no knocking, no loss of power these 3 times, no engine dying)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, the problem got worse in that the engine didn't have power when I shifted to reverse to back out.  Usually, I just shift to reverse and let the automatic transmission back me into the street.  Today, there was no movement.  Stepping on the gas helped inch the car out of my driveway but there was not much power when gassing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the car died twice while stepping on the gas to back it out.  I was able to drive to work without incident (no knocking, no loss of power, engine didn't die on the way to work).  At first I thought I had a spark plug issue or a cylinder issue but since I was able to drive on the highway without incidents, I'm guessing that's not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's hard to diagnose something w/o seeing or hearing what's happening but does anyone know what might be happening from what I'm describing?  I read some other forums and sites and people who had similar problems were advised to check the spark plugs, the idle screw or something with the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks or something, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if their situation is the same as mine so I don't know if the solutions proposed to them would be the solution for me too.  Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastEditorUserId="3332" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T00:37:37.283" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T23:58:58.983" Title="2005 Honda Accord cold start idle is low" Tags="|engine|honda|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1718" CreationDate="2014-04-02T15:17:01.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Cr-v was doing the same thing. I ran fuel injector cleaner through it and have not had an issue. (I ran a lot through it. Only had about a half tank of gas and ran a whole bottle, that treats up to 35 gallons)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4790" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T15:17:01.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2014-04-02T16:52:38.547" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are confusing torque (TQ) and horsepower (HP) terms here. HP is a mathematical computation based on TQ. You can derive a HP number by increasing the rotational speed up/down depending on what you want to achieve. Weight of a vehicle will have no affect on either. As mentioned in the comments, TQ output (at the wheels) is greatly affected by tire size, transmission gearing, axle ratio, and frictional losses. Because TQ output is affected by these, so is HP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out what HP is, you use the following equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P=TW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P=Power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T=Torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;W=Angular Momentum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we are talking about vehicles, we need to modify a couple of things here to get to HP. When using other units or if the speed is in revolutions per unit time rather than radians, a conversion factor has to be included. When torque is in pound-foot units, rotational speed is in rpm and power is required in horsepower, we change the equation to look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;HP=(TQ x RPM)/5252&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HP = Horsepower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TQ = Torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM = Rotations Per Minute (or engine speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5252 is a constant which allows you to convert for foot pounds (ft lbs) measure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's throw some numbers into the equation and see how HP is affected by different factors. For this example, we will use the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;TQ = 300&#xA;RPM = 3000&#xA;HP = (300 x 3000) / 5252&#xA;HP = (900000) / 5252&#xA;HP = 171.36 @ 3000 RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you increase the RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;TQ = 300&#xA;RPM = 5000&#xA;HP = (300 x 5000) / 5252&#xA;HP = (1500000) / 5252&#xA;HP = 285.61 @ 5000 RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes the torque value has maintained the same level (300 ft lbs), yet the HP has increased by over 100HP. Remember that HP is a measure of work over time. The work is the TQ, while the time period is the RPM. As you increase speed of an engine, the work being accomplished increases as well. Conversely, if we increase TQ at a given RPM range, we will also see a corresponding increase in HP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;TQ = 400&#xA;RPM = 3000&#xA;HP = (400 x 3000) / 5252&#xA;HP = (1200000) / 5252&#xA;HP = 228.48 @ 3000 RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown, as TQ increases at a given speed, so does HP, meaning that the amount of work has also increased, but the the speed within which it occurs is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting to note, that due to the constant of 5252, if you look at a graph of TQ and HP output, you will notice the two will be equal at 5252 RPM. If you see a graph depicting the HP/TQ outputs of an engine which &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; cross at this point, you know it is a bogus chart (which happens more often than you'd think). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is torque affected by things as I mentioned above? If you put an engine on a stand and attach it to an engine dynamometer, you would be measuring the output at 1:1. What the engine puts out is what you get. No mechanical or mathematical gimmickry going on here. If, however, we put the vehicle on a roller or chassis dynamometer, there is a lot of other factors going one which affects the outcome. First modifier is the transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recent transmission introduced to the automotive is the T-56 Magnum, produced by Tremec. The gear ratios for this transmission are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1st gear - 2.66:1&#xA;2nd gear - 1.78:1&#xA;3rd gear - 1.30:1&#xA;4th gear - 1.00:1&#xA;5th gear - 0.80:1&#xA;6th gear - 0.63:1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the transmission is to give a vehicle more TQ output by using mechanical advantage. If we were to measure TQ output at the back of the transmission, you'd expect to take the input TQ coming from the engine and multiply it by the gear ration of the first gear. How it works, as you multiply the speed of the shaft, you decrease the torque output. The converse is true as well. In the case of the first gear, given an engine speed (input) of 3000 RPM and TQ of 300 ft-lbs, the output is modified to ~1128 RPM and your TQ has climbed to 798 ft-lbs. Remember, this is a generalization, as there is a modification for frictional losses, which occurs due to drag from the bearings, bushing, seals, and to a certain extent by pushing tranny fluid around (tranny fluid actually reduces a lot of drag from the bearings and bushing, though, so a whole different dynamic). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next modifier is the rear differential. Let's use a rear differential ratio of 3.50:1 (this is not a real world ratio as I know it, just using the number to make things easier). Our output of 1128RPM and 798 ft-lbs, now becomes ~322RPM and 2793 ft-lbs, respectively. Mind you, all of this assumes that the entire drive train is spinning, as in the clutch is engaged and fully gripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only modifier we have left, is the tire height. Because the tire/wheel is directly attached to the axle shaft, there is a 1:1 ratio there, which means the RPM will not change. What does change is the applied TQ. TQ is a twisting force. If you think of the tire as a lever (which it actually is, just a round one), as you get further away from the twisting force, the more torque it takes to move the end of the lever. Normally, when we think of the application of TQ, we are thinking of it the other way around, that being we apply a longer lever and it takes less force to create the TQ at the fulcrum (pivot point) of the lever. In our fictional example we are running with here, we have to look at it the other way around. That being, we are applying TQ at the fulcrum to move the end of the lever. If the end of the lever (the radius of the tire) is 12&quot;, we would be applying 2793 pounds of force at the end of that lever. Most tires are not, however, 24&quot; tall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, we will use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&amp;amp;tireModel=Ventus+R-S3&amp;amp;partnum=735WR8Z222140&amp;amp;vehicleSearch=false&amp;amp;fromCompare1=yes&quot;&gt;Hankook Ventus R-S3&lt;/a&gt; which is 25.6&quot; tall. 1/2 of this diameter gives us a radius of 12.8&quot;. Mathematically, this would would be 1.0667'. Modifying our final TQ output of 2793 by this equates to 2618 lbs of force being applied at the contact patch of the tire ... but not quite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last main part of the equation is frictional losses. As I alluded to, every bearing, every bushing, every seal, ever gear ... all of it, sustains frictional losses. As a rule of thumb, the general thought is that 18-20% of the force coming out of the engine is gone by the time it reaches the contact patch of the tire at the ground. Our example of 2618 lbs would then be reduced to (using 20% for ease), would be ~2094.4 lbs of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think now, of the difference of the TQ output would be if this hypothetical vehicle was sporting a rear end gear ratio of 4.0:1 (again, this is hypothetical)? Our transmission output of 1128RPM and 798 ft-lbs, now becomes 282RPM and 3192 ft-lbs. That is an increase of nearly 400 ft-lbs of torque. Wow, why don't we run a 5.0:1 ratio then and get 226RPM and 3990 ft-lbs, then? The problem, as you are probably guessing, is that we are running out of RPM. This affects the top speed of the vehicle. If we kept the vehicle in 1st gear alone, our top speed would be (using the tires above and a theoretical engine redline of 6800) 53.82mph @ 3.50:1, 47.16mph @ 4.00:1, and 37.74mph @ 5.00:1. Even in 4th gear in our T-56, with a 1:1 ratio, the top speed of our fictitious vehicle would only be 100.38mph if the rear end gearing were at 5.00:1. In racing terms, this is slow. There are two ways we can affect this. One way being shifting into a higher gear. We are lucky with our transmission which has two more forward gears, both of which are overdrive. The 6th, or final gear in our transmission is 0.63:1. This extends our theoretical top speed to ~159mph, which is much better. The second way we can extend our top speed is by making the tires taller (but remember, this affects our effective torque). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What all this comes down to, is finding the combination which works best for the needs of the car. How does this answer the question. I'm hoping this gives a clue as to how torque, running through the gears, affects what the output to the ground is. The only effect weight has in any of this is it takes more torque to get more weight moving to the same speed in the same amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T18:08:32.960" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T18:08:32.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9238" CreationDate="2014-04-02T23:46:10.130" Score="2" ViewCount="17242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that, when you add electrolyte and acid to a new battery, it will then be at 80% of max charge. You can put the battery in your bike and it will turn. However, it's highly recommend to tend that battery and bring it up to 100% charge. Is it possible to drop the battery in and take her for a spin (because it's a beautiful evening) then hook her up to the tender anyway and still charge the battery up to 100%?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T12:12:28.520" Title="New batteries with acid at 80% charge-- if I run then tend, will it bring it up to 100%?" Tags="|motorcycle|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9244" CreationDate="2014-04-03T00:51:46.850" Score="1" ViewCount="13453" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new Toyota Camry (LE 2014, just bought with no miles on it) all over the sudden had a &quot;Tire pressure&quot; warning light come on on the dashboard about 1 week after purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stayed on consistently for a about a week (minor driving during that week, may be 20 miles total)... and then just as inexplicably the light stopped and didn't appear again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could be the reason? Should i be concerned and contact service department even if the light stays off?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of that may be correlated was that a day before it came on; my tire accidentally hit/climed on a curb when parking... AND, about 1 hour before it turned off, it hit another curb again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4794" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T04:10:35.683" Title="New Toyota Camry tire pressure light came on and then off" Tags="|toyota|tires|camry|warning-light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-03T01:01:14.047" Score="4" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a particular part for my new '99 Dodge Ram 1500.  I have found that it is very difficult to locate OEM part numbers for individual items in the car.  My thought process is that if I can find the OEM part it makes it a lot easier to call around to see who might have the part available.  In my case, I'm looking for an interior trim retainer clip that is yellow nylon and appears to be called a &quot;christmas tree retainer.&quot;  The service manual says &lt;code&gt;6506878aa&lt;/code&gt; is the part number but searches for that don't seem to return any retainer clips.  After calling the dealer, they notified me that the part number is actually &lt;code&gt;6503709&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a place where I can look up comprehensive parts lists for my vehicle, right down to the individual part numbers for bolts, would be really helpful.  I figure that auto parts stores have large databases for just this sort of thing; I'm wondering if there is anything I can use as a home user to try to find the proper part numbers for various components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastEditorUserId="1559" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T21:19:23.307" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T22:13:11.350" Title="Are there comprehensive parts lists available for vehicles?" Tags="|parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9234" CreationDate="2014-04-03T02:25:46.350" Score="9" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing my windshield wiper motor (after asking about it &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9211/windshield-wipers-stop-and-motor-makes-noise/9216&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and while putting in the new windshield wiper motor, I hit it on the edge of the windshield causing a few cracks. I asked a couple people about fixing it. The one person told me to put silicone on it, while the other person (a windshield repair guy) told me to not put silicone on it (because the acid in it will eat away at the car) and that there's nothing I can do except watch the crack get bigger. I'm wondering if there is any way I can fix it? And if there's nothing I can do now, is there something I can do if cracks start to appear? It is a new windshield and I really don't want to replace it again. Also, it's a 2003 Toyota Camry LE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4304" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T08:30:34.710" Title="Repairing crack on edge of windshield" Tags="|toyota|repair|camry|windshield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="119" CreationDate="2014-04-03T04:06:02.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Mix - n - Go after you get the car out of storage or begin to drive it again. When you put it into storage, the ethanol starts separating within weeks. Lucas sells a new blend for storing cars. Make sure for any storage blend that you not only put the stuff in but that you run the car so that it gets into every single line and injector / carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4796" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:58:06.830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:58:06.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9232" CreationDate="2014-04-03T10:06:25.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The windshield repair guy is correct: there is no way to repair cracks in the windshield. I don't know what the laws are in Alberta, but here in Virginia, if the cracks are on the driver's side of the windshield, it needs to be replaced. Considering that you were replacing the wiper motor and it is on the DS of the vehicle, I will assume this is your case. I will also assume you are still experiencing cold nights there in Alberta, so night/day temperature differential will expedite the cracking which will occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For edification purposes, if a windshield has a bullseye type rock impact site, these can most often be repaired by windshield repair person. This can occur even if small cracks occur around the bullseye. Your situation is much different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T10:06:25.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9230" CreationDate="2014-04-03T10:34:32.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I doubt it's a huge issue with your vehicle. If you did a visual inspection of the tires (or even with a tire pressure gauge) and found there wasn't any issues, I wouldn't think it's an issue. Remember, as well, most TPS systems will register a problem if the pressure is too high, too low, or if a sensor quits transmitting. It (obviously) seems strange that the light went on/off in your brand new car. If you are worried about the system, the car is completely under warranty (unless you've changed out the wheels). I would take it in and have the system checked. There is a code which can appear in the OBD-II system indicating if a sensor is going bad. The bumps on the curb should not have had &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; affect on the TPS system. If this was the case, you'd be getting a light every time you hit a pot hole or speed bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T10:34:32.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2014-04-03T10:48:05.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, you can do it that way as a quick reference. That being said, figuring out which car is &quot;better&quot; depends on what you want to do with it. If it's going to be a towing vehicle or long-distance family transporter, Torque/ton is what you're concerned with. If you want a traffic light racer, you'll have to look at horsepower/ton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning: A Mazda Drifter 2500TDi Pickup may have 250Nm+ of torque and only 80kW of horsepower, while a Vauxhall Astra Turbo has 250Nm and 147kW.Their weights are roughly equal, but the Astra has about 70kW more horsepower. This means that while the pickup is able to move just as heavy a load as the Astra, it can't be considered a &quot;fast&quot; car because it will take ages to get up to speed (0 to 60 takes 16 seconds). Conversely, the Astra accelerates more than twice as fast (0 to 60 in 7.5 seconds). And they have similar flat torque curve profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is for heavy lifting, horsepower is for going fast. Ideally you want both, but you can settle for one depending on your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T10:48:05.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-03T12:06:17.230" Score="4" ViewCount="14292" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right hand side blinkers in my 2005 Holden/Opel Barina stopped working.&#xA;When I turn the blinkers on they do the right click-click sound just much faster than usual.&#xA;All 3 blinkers stopped working.&#xA;I've checked the front and rear bulbs and are good. I've checked the fuse and it's good.&#xA;I've measured the voltage on the metal contacts at the back and there is no voltage at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start looking for the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4797" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T12:58:13.500" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T23:47:49.177" Title="Right hand side blinkers on Holden/Opel Barina not working" Tags="|electrical|barina|opel|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9229" CreationDate="2014-04-03T15:50:20.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason behind tending it to bring it to 100% vs. just riding it up to 100% is to save wear and tear on the alternator or generator.  They're really designed to maintain a battery/do light charging, not do a major charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary thing is that a severely discharged battery may vent a lot of hydrogen while charging and you'll need to monitor the cell electrolyte levels.  That's hard to do while riding...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T15:50:20.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9241" CreationDate="2014-04-03T17:15:57.907" Score="4" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery of my Nissan Tiida is similar to the ones in the pictures below. Should I check if there is enough liquid inside? and in case it needs, should I add distilled  water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Buv3B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y7u0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T19:25:43.723" Title="Should i check quantity of battery liquid?" Tags="|battery|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9247" CreationDate="2014-04-03T17:23:27.310" Score="-1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add an injector cleaner to a Nissan Tiida 2012. It has around 15000 miles and I never add any fuel additive. Sonax injector cleaner costs 20 dollars and 3M costs 10 dollars. Which one do you recommend me? Can you recommend other brands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T09:00:41.253" Title="Is 3m injector cleaner a good product?" Tags="|nissan|cleaning|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-04-07T21:03:52.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9239" CreationDate="2014-04-03T18:43:25.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This battery type does not allow for easy checking and does not require it. If you had a battery with caps you could remove, then yes, you would use distilled water to top them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T18:43:25.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9239" CreationDate="2014-04-03T20:15:09.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is normally not required with a maintenance free battery yours may be a low maintenance type. Allowing the battery acid level to drop too low can cause the battery to overheat shortening its life. The small circles with the cross pattern on the top are caps. They can be removed and water can be added. It is best to use distilled water. If you don't have a battery filler you can use a plastic turkey baster. It is important to add a little at a time and not overfill the cells.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T20:15:09.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-03T21:00:47.180" Score="2" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having lots of noise and vibrations at high speed.&#xA;I took to the dealer (VW) and was told it was because of flat spots on my tires. Its a front wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My threads are in pretty good condition. They can easily go 10k miles more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the flat spots create any problems elsewhere in the vehicle? Should I replace the tires ASAP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also could there be other reasons why this noise and vibrations happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a video so everyone will have better idea..&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjMFzi_xmPk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjMFzi_xmPk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastEditorUserId="4801" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T18:25:31.197" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T18:25:31.197" Title="Noise and vibrations in car (VW GTI 2011)" Tags="|tires|noise|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9230" CreationDate="2014-04-03T23:39:49.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure goes up and down with the weather. As we know from physics, gas and volume and pressure are all controlled by temperature: pv=nrt. The car may have indeed been low pressure when you drove it off the lot (presumably during a cold spell), and after some combination of heat from driving on the pavement / warmer weather, the pressure may have come up above minimal levels. Carlots have variable practices in routine maintenance of their fleet, yours may have been particularly negligent in keeping pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the low pressure light hasn't come back on, you are probably fine. I would actually check the darn pressure and bring it up to recommended levels, even if the light &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; on (this will save money and still protect you from puncture risks). Automatic gauges on cars have mixed receptions. Some think they're unreliable. Others don't bother putting air in their tires until the light comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T23:39:49.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-04T05:12:15.520" Score="1" ViewCount="2786" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any Suggestions for Tuning my Tata Nano car into getting a muscle look and also an increase in power??.. Thanks in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4804" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T12:25:41.447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:26:13.007" Title="Add Muscles to my Tata Nano Car" Tags="|car|tuning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-04-07T21:03:20.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9354" CreationDate="2014-04-04T08:25:03.840" Score="0" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ll need some help with identifying some DTC´s, right front passenger power window got stuck, so I have made some diag checks, I have found this trouble code list but I am lost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U1507&#xA;LIN communication&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U1508*4&#xA;Power window (DR) time-out&#xA;U1509*4&#xA;Power window (AS) time-out&#xA;U1510*4&#xA;Power window (RL) time-out&#xA;U1511*4&#xA;Power window (RR) time-out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U1534*4&#xA;Power window (DR) checksum error&#xA;U1535*4&#xA;Power window (AS) checksum error&#xA;U1536*4&#xA;Power window (RL) checksum error&#xA;U1537*4&#xA;Power window (RR) checksum error&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These codes appeared, my question is, when DR stands for driver, RL for rear left, RR for rear right, does AS stands for Passenger? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:57:12.743" Title="mitsubishi l200 power window issue" Tags="|power-windows|mitsubishi|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9240" CreationDate="2014-04-04T09:00:41.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3M has always made quality products. I don't know the Sonax brand, so in the interest of fairness I'm going to assume it's very good. But if the 3M product is cheaper, I would gladly spend my own money on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T09:00:41.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2014-04-04T09:09:12.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car's engine is too tiny to bother with making it stronger. You're going to pay lots of money for very little increase in performance. It would be cheaper to trade your car in and buy something faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you insist, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an uprated clutch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a set of 15 inch wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install larger brake rotors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get coilover suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a set of forged pistons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a stronger fuel pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install bigger fuel injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a Garrett GT12 turbo and intercooler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a full turbo back exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have your engine management updated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this will ensure your car looks the part and handle the upgraded performance. You'll probably get an extra 30kw (40hp) and a much smoother ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T12:14:10.640" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:14:10.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5134" CreationDate="2014-04-04T09:18:02.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there a lot you can do, first I would advise you to do brake upgrade, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brembo has some slotted discs PN 09.7011.75 for front PN 08.7165.75 for rear + pads PN P 85 041 front and PN P 85 020 rear, then you could instal K&amp;amp;N sport filter in OEM filter box PN 33-2128, or you could chose one from two K&amp;amp;N filter kits, cone PN 57-0620/sport box+filter PN 57S-9500, depends how much you want to invest, this could add 2-5% of HP, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;adding 100 octane fuel would also help, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there´s a great work done at Skoda with OEM air intake,I would do as was said in Bob Cross´s answer, polish the intake, intake and exhaust ports in the cylinder head, this could be also done by instaling custom intake but this could cost more than you desire to invest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it would be best to de-cat the exhaust pipes, found someone who could make you custom stainless steel exhaust pipes + buy some aftermarket REMUS rear exhaust, example here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd9ELjJdGos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd9ELjJdGos&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chipmoding could add up to 10% HP but, find some profesional to do that, pick quality moder rather than some bargain sh*t. You can also instal NGK iridiums to improve combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Streetsport suspension/coils/springs could improve handling/stability. Hope it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T09:18:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9243" CreationDate="2014-04-04T09:35:33.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few possible things which could cause vibrations: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When breaking hard, your discs could take up some heat and get&#xA;warped, great article could be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_discs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found&#xA;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad geometry could cause vibrations + uneven tyre wear (flat spots&#xA;maybe?), see &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/steering-wheel-vibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;related&#xA;article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check wheel balancing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bigotires.com/librarydetail/Tire-Balancing---Why-Does-it-Matter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&#xA;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend to check these first, there are couple more issues but these are the most common, which could possibly fix your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T10:36:12.553" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T10:36:12.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9229" CreationDate="2014-04-04T10:39:40.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi in my opinion you will be fine to use the battery with 80% charge, your bike will do the rest when you are out for a ride. Also it is a good idea to invest in one of the new SMART CHARGERS that are now on the market, these automatically top up the battery charge and are ideal for protecting your battery over the dormant winter period, when the battery is charged the charger switches off and then on again when the battery requires topping up with charge, hope this helps you Eric Roberts www.batteriesontheweb.co.uk  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5BPUk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4807" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T10:39:40.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9170" CreationDate="2014-04-04T10:44:10.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specify your engine please. Do you have petrol or diesel engine? How many kw/Hp is your engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the exact month and year your car was made. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;C4 model parts were updated in October, 2006.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; That may be your issue. You may have searched for parts from 10/06+, but your car spec is from before that date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discs for &lt;code&gt;2006 Citroen C4&lt;/code&gt;s made before October 2006 should be following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FRONT OEM numbers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4246W1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;424916&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;424983 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4246W7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;424915 (Dimensions: 266x22)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REAR OEM numbers:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;424919&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;424932 (Dimensions: 249x9).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find them at your parts dealer with these numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T20:05:24.817" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:05:24.817" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5134" CreationDate="2014-04-04T12:11:38.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best value for money on non-turbo cars is to get a more aggressive camshaft installed. a 276 degree cam will give you the best blend of power and driveability. After that, you can have your head ported and gasflowed. Round it off with a slightly larger exhaust and a software update. But you'll only gain about 20hp in total if you're lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:11:38.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2014-04-04T12:13:36.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.examiner.com/article/tata-nano-performance-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which says since the Nano is almost a duplicate of the Smart Car found here in the States, fitting a Hayabusa engine into your Nano may be possible. Think about 200hp (as compared to the 39hp stock) in your Nano and you get the idea. Here are some points the website says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reduce air intake restriction by replacing duct work up to throttle body and using a high flow air filter element. Port and polish the throttle body to make it smooth. By gasket matching and polishing as much intake and exhaust contact surface as possible, you'll make gains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove emissions equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Port exhaust heads and OEM exhaust manifold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thermal wrap exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Silicon coolant lines wrapped in exhaust wrap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;External oil cooler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lower suspension by heating springs with torch and compressing, or by cutting. A good way to do this is have someone sit on the car while you heat the spring with a torch. If done right, it will lower the vehicle. Alternatively, you could check out Smart car strut assemblies and see if they will swap. Buy OEM Smart car parts at LKQ by clicking here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Forced induction of various types. Be sure to upgrade fuel system and get a wide band air to fuel ratio gauge like AEM UEGO. Be sure to keep the engine running rich when you upgrade to forced induction. Running lean can cause the engine to fail. A good turbo for this vehicle would be a Mitsubishi TD-04 like what is found on the WRX. It's small but has large potential and quick spool. This would be more than enough air for the OEM Tata Nano.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Juann said, any gain on such a small engine is going to be a small gain in the overall scheme of things. Although, if you gain 1-2hp from a single upgrade, overall it would be a big gain as compared to where you start at (2hp gain from stock is over a 5% gain). The turbo is going to be the best way to go to get the bigger gains. As a rule of thumb, for every 14 lbs of boost (psi), you will double the power output of the engine (if the engine can support that much power). I'm not suggesting you boost to that level, but if you bring it up to 7psi, you should see a gain of around 20hp which would bring a lot of vroom to your little go buggy. Of note, with a turbo, there is a lot of planning, fabrication, and support mods you'll have to do to make it work. Supporting mods are things like tuning, exhaust, and possibly drivetrain (can the transmission take the extra power??).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you can look at, is whether you can transplant an engine from one of the other Tata models into your Nano. I don't know how things are in India (where the Nano is manufactured), but here in the States auto manufacturers utilize the same engine to transmission mounting arrangement between different engines to make things easier and to reduce production costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as styling, there are some body kits out there which you may like. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoamplified.com/the-dc-nano-bang-for-the-buck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is one&lt;/a&gt; which might give you some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhrTO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tata Nano&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this kit gives the Nano some aggressiveness you might be looking for, but it's up to you whether you like it or not. All I'm saying is, there are options out there for you. Do some research on the internet and you'll find something. If not, come up with your own modifications and make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T12:26:13.007" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:26:13.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9274" CreationDate="2014-04-04T17:41:04.790" Score="4" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currenly trying to remove part of the engine mount off my Vauxhall Astra to get to the thermostat and I've hit a stumbling block by two VERY tight screws that are almost impossible to get a wrench on to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips/tricks that might help in removing these? I really don't care what happens to the bolts, and maybe even the engine mount, but hopefully keep away from damaging engine itself.. Here are a few pictures that show the bolts in question if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They appear to be T14 in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fqogg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtaQc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtTqc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Third picture if necessary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T09:48:37.317" Title="Removing difficult engine bolts" Tags="|engine|vauxhall|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2014-04-04T18:48:05.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bulbs are good, the fuses are good (both in the engine compartment and inside the vehicle, and the flasher is good (the clicking sound maker), then I would say the turn signal switch.  However, to properly diagnosis that, you will want to get a wiring diagram.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other, less likely items would be a bad ground, bad wiring, or bad connection somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T18:48:05.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-04T19:54:29.773" Score="4" ViewCount="8015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a peugeot 206 1.9L Diesel (1999). I recently changed the fuel filter and now the engine is running very rough and sometimes cutting out especially at low speeds. I have noticed that there is lots of tiny air bubbles in the fuel line between the fuel filter housing and the fuel pump. Is it likely that these air bubbles are causing the running problems and if so how can i fix the problem please ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4809" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T23:57:14.413" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:31:34.000" Title="air bubbles in diesel fuel line of peugeot 206" Tags="|diesel|peugeot|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9898" CreationDate="2014-04-04T21:03:15.717" Score="10" ViewCount="9590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, like the title reads ... I replaced the heads on a Dodge Ram V8 5.9L gas engine. It's now running like the cat is plugged. Can blowing the white plume of coolant exhaust out the tailpipe cause the cat to plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T19:38:50.973" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T19:38:50.973" Title="Can a head gasket leak cause the cat to plug?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9262" CreationDate="2014-04-04T21:04:21.163" Score="3" ViewCount="7561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year at this time, the car (1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX) didn't make any bad noises. :-) Then in the Summer, the left rear wheel bearing failed and turned into a really big deal. When I finally got the car back in January (with a new axle and upright), it would make an occasional very light scraping sound under hard cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple weeks later the left rear brake caliper seized. After rebuilding that, I didn't hear the scraping sound at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I took it in for an alignment only to find that the rear eccentric bolts were seized up. I cut those out and replaced the arms. At the same time I replaced the rally computer sensor magnets that got removed during the wheel bearing work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since then the car makes a horrendously loud scraping sound at anything over a walking pace. Pushing the car around it can't be heard. No sound when turning wheels by hand. However, as soon as I get past walking pace, it goes from quiet to GRUNCH ... GRUNCH ... GRUNCH at about the speed you'd expect from say, a brake rotor rubbing on a dust shield. So far, even after running the car around for awhile listening to that horrible noise, I can't locate the source. Nothing gets warm. I can't find anything that's showing any signs of scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss.  Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:07:38.097" Title="Trying to locate the cause of a horrible scraping sound" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9185" CreationDate="2014-04-04T22:57:25.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an exhaustive search on the internet, I came to the conclusion that while the two heads have a different part number and are different in some very minor ways, I have just thrown the heads on there and done the deed. If there is a significant difference I couldn't see, there doesn't seem to be an issue with them. The truck started right up without any leaks or problems with the heads that I can tell. It is my understanding (now) that it doesn't matter which head goes on which side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T22:57:25.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9260" CreationDate="2014-04-04T23:07:38.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It ended up being the one dust shield, just like what the sound indicated.  Apparently a small ding on the backside, right at the &quot;corner&quot; was touching the rotor.  I went all around between the rotor and dust shield, on the corner that had the most work done recently, with a screwdriver and a hammer.  That did the trick.  Just a hint of scraping on hard right turns, otherwise fine.  Next brake service I'll see if I can get a new dust shield to slip in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:07:38.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9258" CreationDate="2014-04-05T20:55:37.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bubbles are in the fuel line that leads to the high pressure pump, then air in the system would reduce the pumps ability to pressurise the fuel correctly. Diesel injectors require high pressure fuel in order to achieve proper atomisation; liquids don't burn, so the fuel needs to enter the cylinder in very fine droplets in order for a clean burn to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you filled the filter housing with diesel during the filter replacement procedure? Otherwise there will be air in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system also needs to be correctly primed so that fuel reaches the high pressure pump correctly. This is usually done by a hand pump or by one that is attached to the filter body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for leaks around the filter. Also check all the lines and connections and make sure that the fuel filter has been fitted correctly. I believe these engines use a paper filter which you insert in to a housing (I've only experienced the Peugeot 1.9 diesel engine on a van, so the car variant may be different) - you may want to make sure that the housing has been put back together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of issues with air getting trapped in the fuel solenoid (which I believe to be attached to the high pressure pump), for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The diesel solenoid was taken out and the hand bulb primer given a good squeeze which seemed to clear a blockage.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/vans-16/stumped-boxer-1-9d-not-starting-18487/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/vans-16/stumped-boxer-1-9d-not-starting-18487/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, and because the poor running has occurred immediately following a change of fuel filter, it may be wise to acquire a set of second hand fuel hoses and filter housing from a scrap dealer to see if that resolves the issue (as you may have damaged the housing, line or one of the connections whilst changing the filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am wrong and the fuel filter is a complete replacement unit, then make sure you have a high quality filter (bosch / delphi etc) from a reliable parts supplier. If you haven't then I recommend fitting one as, in my experience, a cheaply made fuel filter can cause diesels to run poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4501" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T20:55:37.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9342" CreationDate="2014-04-05T21:17:53.590" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2011 Ford Fusion SEL. If relevant, I've noticed by seeing through the wheels that it's 4 wheel disc-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to drive a 2003 Mazda Protege DX. When I hit the brakes hard in that vehicle my wheels would lock up. However, in my Fusion I've noticed that when hit the brakes hard (and I could be doing only like 25-30 MPH) that my brakes don't &quot;lock&quot;. At that speed, if I hit my brakes hard I feel like the car should basically come to a complete stop right stop. It's not doing that. It keeps moving and slows down, I don't know for certain but it feels like it could be 10 feet or so before a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I'm not talking about ABS kicking in because of lack of traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal on newer cars or should I get my brakes checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4811" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:16:45.467" Title="Should brakes lock when hit hard?" Tags="|ford|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-06T00:59:45.140" Score="2" ViewCount="2285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle:  Toyota Tacoma 2007 V6 4L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was taking my power steering pump out, I manager to brake one of the two brackets (or anchors) that attach it to the main body of the engine.  It is an SOL type of situation, i.e. not repairable unless the whole engine is taken out and the thing us welded back onto it but I don't think even that is possible because it would have to be calibrated to match the hole positions on the pump, which is a c**pchute at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the thing could be mounted in just one anchor, especially because the one that is left has the longer screw.  But if that screw became loose, the pump might wiggle and I was wondering if that may be an issue and cause the fluid hose to come off.  Especially because that will compromise the position of the pulley relative to the serpentine belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am reaching out to the guru community to assess the severity of this breakage.  Do you think the pump will be okay remounted on only one anchor?  Is there any way to restore the fixed position of the pump on the serpentine belt?  I still have the broken off piece, in case it can somehow be used to remedy the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T01:08:30.530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T01:55:12.183" Title="Broke one of the two power steering pump brackets/anchors" Tags="|power-steering|motor-mounts|screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9265" CreationDate="2014-04-06T01:31:26.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While one bolt &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to hold the pump in place, it won't keep it firm. What this will give you is just enough movement, the serpentine belt will not stay in place. It will pop off, maybe not in the first few seconds, but as soon as you put enough strain on the power steering, it will deflect enough and your belt will be off. The reason there are usually at least two (or more), is because this anchors whatever accessory is being tied in. Less than that and you have the possibility for deflection in one plane of reference, which will give the belt a chance to pop off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is on a bracket, you should probably go to a junk yard and see if you can get a replacement. If this is not possible, you're going to need to see about getting it repaired through welding or what have you. If it's not a bracket, but is attached directly to the engine, maybe you can have a Helicoil put in or something to that effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T01:40:40.483" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T01:40:40.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9268" CreationDate="2014-04-05T20:40:12.870" Score="6" ViewCount="7245" Body="&lt;p&gt;When jump-starting a vehicle, one first connects the positive and negative terminals between the two cars: positive to positive and negative (good battery) to a bolt head on the vehicle with the dead battery. Next comes the actual jump-starting part - turning the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. My question is does the the engine of the car with the good battery have to be running before one attempts starting the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery, and if yes, then why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Boyan Georgiev" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T16:27:57.203" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T18:54:47.367" Title="Is it necessary to have the good car's engine running when jumpstarting" Tags="|electrical|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2014-04-05T21:21:49.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description of connecting the two cars is correct.  I want to emphasize making the last connection to the &quot;bolt head&quot; you mention.  Any large piece of unpainted metal will do.  The reason for this is to keep the resulting spark away from the battery.  If they battery has been venting fumes, the spark can (although it's very unlikely) cause them to ignite and explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your question:  It is better to have the &quot;good&quot; car's engine running, because its alternator will be able to provide current to the &quot;dead&quot; car in addition to keeping the good car's battery charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the cables are connected you can wait a few minutes for the dead car's battery to charge up a bit. Often, however, the good car will often be able to provide enough power to start the dead car right away, without waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the dead car actually cranks up, its own alternator can cause a significant spike into both car's systems.  Now that cars rely so heavily on digital electronics, this spike can damage the controlling computer.  It is wise to turn on the headlights of both cars before starting the bad car.  Any surge will be dampened by the light bulbs, which will flow more current when the voltage increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you're having to wait for the dead battery to charge, keep the headlights off while you're waiting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these events (the exploding battery and the fried computer) are really unlikely, and people jump cars without these precautions all the time.  But, in this case, it doesn't hurt to be safe :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, after disconnecting the cables, make sure the previously-dead car stays running for a while!  You need to give the battery some time to charge up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" OwnerDisplayName="bitsmack" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2018-02-20T18:54:47.367" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T18:54:47.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9283" CreationDate="2014-04-06T06:43:08.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove front disc rotors. I know how to remove calipers and free wheeling&#xA;hubs but not rotors. Is this possible without disassembling the hubs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T16:09:28.833" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T20:03:52.163" Title="1976 Land Cruiser fj40 front disc rotor removal" Tags="|toyota|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9264" CreationDate="2014-04-06T09:10:39.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even high performance cars can't stop on a penny - the brakes have to do work and turn the kinetic energy in to heat. There will be a maximum rate at which this work can be done - if you fitted bigger, more powerful brakes then these in turn, would put a greater load on the tyres and demand more from the suspension too (the suspension has to put weight on the tyres in order to produce the friction required for the tyres to push against the road and slow the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance you mention sounds perfectly safe for that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, if you are concerned that something is wrong, take it to a ford dealer or a mechanic and ask them to check it. It's a possible safety concern after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4501" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T09:10:39.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7671" CreationDate="2014-04-06T09:34:24.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can try bitumen coated foil/carpet underlay/sound deadening paint (similar to&#xA;under body paint)many solutions to be found at any auto parts store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T09:34:24.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7710" CreationDate="2014-04-06T09:40:10.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check that muffler internals have not corroded and collapsed there by blocking exhaust;&#xA;just tap with a rubber mallet and listen for rattling inside. Inadvertently backing car into a dirt bank can also block exhaust preventing starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T10:33:46.547" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:33:46.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9256" CreationDate="2014-04-06T09:48:37.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;obviously you tried penetrating oil.Try doing bolts up;may serve to crack any rust or&#xA;paint.Failing that place a drift in centre of bolt and hit with a hammer to serve same&#xA;purpose.Worst case scenario heat with an oxy torch that will expand then contract bolt&#xA;making removal a cinch. CAUTION-be very aware of fuel leaks and remove battery from&#xA;near proximity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T09:48:37.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9116" CreationDate="2014-04-06T11:03:22.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ensure bottom hose contains a spring so it doesn't collapse when hot.Replacing thermostat&#xA;is never a bad idea.If radiator is old replacing or re-coring is an option.Many people&#xA;have bullbars/winches/driving lights restricting airflow.A thermo fan that you can turn on&#xA;or off via dash switch is a worthy consideration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T11:03:22.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9243" CreationDate="2014-04-06T11:20:09.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly discs do not warp.Pads contain metal that deposit on rotor so when measured &#xA;in a number of places it is assumed the disc is warped.Check balance weights on rim have&#xA;not fallen off.Jack up front wheels one at a time;grasp tyre each side of centre and pull to and away from you.Any noise or movement may indicate that tension on bearings is incorrect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T11:20:09.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-06T12:27:43.407" Score="1" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a &lt;strong&gt;Fiat Panda&lt;/strong&gt; from 2004. Its interiors look very similar to this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autopicone.altervista.org/blog/wp-content/gallery/fiat_panda/1282644967_115464950_1-zdjecia-fiat-panda-2004r-gaz-1282644967.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://autopicone.altervista.org/blog/wp-content/gallery/fiat_panda/1282644967_115464950_1-zdjecia-fiat-panda-2004r-gaz-1282644967.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the steering wheel has no control buttons for the stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to add stereo controls to the steering wheel of a car that doesn't have this feature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sub-questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this require replacing the wheel entirely, or are there any &quot;add-on&quot; solutions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it necessary for the mounted car stereo to have explicit support and compatibility with this feature for potential solutions to work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4816" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T16:03:18.153" Title="Adding stereo controls to a steering wheel not designed for that purpose" Tags="|steering-wheel|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2014-04-06T15:16:15.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;in most countries any modification particularly one that may impact upon steering &#xA;would be frowned upon.Invest in a voice activated stereo that can be coded to your&#xA;voice only making theft pointless&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T15:16:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9174" CreationDate="2014-04-06T15:43:12.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your clutch may be fine but your rear main bearing oil seal may have shrunk causing&#xA;oil to be deposited on clutch components.Easy fix-pour a bottle or two of auto-trans &#xA;stop leak into your engine (yes,your engine) which in a very short time will swell&#xA;seals.Did it to my fj40 4 years ago and it has worked to date.If this does not work &#xA;you have spent little and if it does you have saved a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T15:43:12.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2014-04-06T16:03:18.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is fairly common place with aftermarket stereo systems. Look at this example from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120RFASWC/Axxess-RFASWC-Universal-Steering-Wheel-Control-Interface.html?tp=3405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z7VdV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about them, other than that they exist. They do not in anyway modify your steering, just add a way to access controls at your fingertips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T16:03:18.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2014-04-06T16:13:15.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at this image, it appears the entire thing has to be pulled apart to get to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAnSE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T16:13:15.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9270" CreationDate="2014-04-06T20:03:52.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Procedure should be same as it´s shown in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzJEdD-ukrA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Utube video&quot;&gt;Utube video&lt;/a&gt;, I hope it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T20:03:52.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8977" CreationDate="2014-04-06T20:14:19.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends which headlight system you have,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if your dipped beams are xenon and high beam use H7 socket bulb, you should buy D2S,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D1S is designed for bi-xenon headlights,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure you know what you have. I hope it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T20:14:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9498" CreationDate="2014-04-06T23:02:35.383" Score="11" ViewCount="207508" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck's power steering pump is broken (leaking) so I had to drain the fluid.  I was able to drive it around the parking lot, with considerable difficulty steering.  I need to get the truck home, which is 25 mi away.  Aside from the difficult steering, are there any other consequences to driving without power steering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T04:34:22.380" Title="Is it bad to drive a vehicle if power steering is defunct?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9148" CreationDate="2014-04-07T04:50:42.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use bendix CT(ceramic)stealth advanced technology disc pads and slotted rotors to&#xA;suit.You can use your existing rotors but it is best to upgrade to ceramic compatible&#xA;rotors.Ceramic pads shed very little dust as opposed to metal content pads so your&#xA;mags will stay cleaner longer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T04:50:42.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2014-04-07T04:57:19.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;did you bed your brakes in? 1.make 8-10 gentle stops from 30-15mph. at 30 sec. intervals.&#xA;2.make 8-10 moderate stops from 45-30mph. at 30 sec. intervals.3.make 8-10 hard stops &#xA;from 55-65mph. to 25mph. at 30 sec. intervals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T04:57:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7213" CreationDate="2014-04-07T05:03:53.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you decide to replace pads and rotors bed them in.Correct procedure to be found on&#xA;Bendix website.While there check out BENDIX general CT stealth advanced technology&#xA;(ceramic) disc pads.Even with standard rotors they are exceptional.With slotted rotors&#xA;they work well offroad too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T05:03:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1313" CreationDate="2014-04-07T05:13:16.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;had the same problem and solved it by buying ceramic pads from a reputable manufacturer.&#xA;ceramic pads as opposed to metal content pads leave less deposits on rotor.Nearly all&#xA;rotor blanks are imported from asia and machined in end user country.Stick with a&#xA;brand well renowned.Cost should not be a factor regarding brake components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T05:13:16.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8964" CreationDate="2014-04-07T05:37:02.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use a brush even if paint can is sitting in hot water; brush strokes are inevitable.&#xA;Sand bonnet to smooth surface using ever finer grades of wet &amp;amp; dry sandpaper. Clean off with wax &amp;amp; grease remover. Prop up bonnet to make level. Spray with acrylic primer- dry-resand-reapply-sand-again use wax &amp;amp; grease remover.Topcoat with acrylic paint of chosen colour. Spray cans are fine. Colour code to be found on compliance plate. All details of&#xA;grades of sandpaper to use; application; drying times etc. are to be found on side of&#xA;primer/paint spray cans.N.B. make sure surfaces and environment are dust free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skill level - anyone can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T22:49:17.737" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T22:49:17.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9015" CreationDate="2014-04-07T05:46:13.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;after topping off your oil park in a wind free environment o/night having laid down&#xA;newspaper under car which may narrow down source of leak.Just to be sure lock garage to ensure the car is not being tampered with.Some folks find such things as fuel/oil&#xA;tampering funny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T05:46:13.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8986" CreationDate="2014-04-07T05:58:57.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are driving in dusty conditions or constant stop/start as in a city doing average&#xA;miles per year (10,000) I would (and do) change oils in motor/gearbox annualy + replace&#xA;oil filter.Never hurts to check diff. oil levels either.If auto have bands adjusted/filter&#xA;cleaned and oil replaced.Deisels need servicing twice as often (particularly filters)oil&#xA;&amp;amp; air.Doing this yourself (except auto trans) is cheap when compared to repair costs.An ounce of prevention etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T05:58:57.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:04:09.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;much like motor vehicles (depending on age) some makers recommend mineral based oils&#xA;some synthetic.They do this for a reason as viscosity/additives vary.Use what they specify.Lubricant makers have websites,some of whom allow you to pose questions regarding&#xA;lubricants and applications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4815" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T05:56:35.433" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T05:56:35.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8338" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:12:46.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the body of plug is still screwed into head squirt wd40 liberally and leave&#xA;o/night.You can then purchase a thin straight wall plug socket much like you would&#xA;use on a lawnmower (the type you put a screwdriver through to turn)This should easily fit in gap surrounding plug &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T06:12:46.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8008" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:28:59.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your radiator, if original, is 11 years old and may be full of scale depending on &#xA;water quality in your area. It may need replacing/rodding out/recoring. Also, check that the bottom hose you purchased has spring inside to prevent collapse. I always use quality premixed&#xA;coolant so water quality is not an issue. N.B. some people will tell you to discard&#xA;thermostat. BAD idea. Had the exact same problem with my V8 shorty 40 and above solutions&#xA;resolved problem. Sitting on 110kph with 38c. outside temp. temp. gauge hovers around 85c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:09:53.340" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:09:53.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7701" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:41:49.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is a design feature of some thermo fans as another contributor mentioned.If it &#xA;really annoys you  any auto sparky can install a manual override switch on your dash.I would advise using a switch incorporating an on/off light.I turn mine off on cold days&#xA;to bring engine to operating temp. a.s.a.p.Sooner auto choke is off more fuel you save&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T06:41:49.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:44:37.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can damage power steering pump when driving without having fluid in it, if it´s leaking just check it every few miles and you are ok, when there is fluid, it has to work, it´s just leaking right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T06:44:37.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:47:05.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As another pointed out, your master cylinder could be faulty. I had mine resleeved with&#xA;stainless steel. Any brake &amp;amp; clutch specialists like repco can do this. To remove and replace is not complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:11:42.487" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:11:42.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7027" CreationDate="2014-04-07T06:54:49.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had same problem.Does starter motor click when trying to start?Solenoid could be on the&#xA;way out as in my case.Go to source;battery could be sulphated.Any garage or batt. supplier will test it (usually free).Check &amp;amp; clean all leads to batt. &amp;amp; s/motor ensuring&#xA;they're all tight and free of corrosion.It's often the simple things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T06:54:49.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5483" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:00:51.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;try a squirt of penetrine.As with all components wear and tear could be an issue.Putting a car in park on a hill before applying h/brake usually involves a lot of force to get&#xA;out of park which can cause damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:00:51.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9197" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:14:17.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if most of your driving is in the city (stop/start)you will never achieve manufacturers claims.Take it for a spin on the freeway (not during peak hour)driving at a constant speed&#xA;and check your mpg. compared to manufacturers claims.Weight is also an issue (number of passengers/cargo etc..Accessories like roofracks/bullbars/towing mirrors all add up.So &#xA;does driving with windows down or using aircon.Clean air filter regularly.Paper element&#xA;is the way to go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:14:17.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9184" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:19:47.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;one possibility comes to mind.If by chance you have used different brands of coolant&#xA;to top up this can cause an adverse outcome.Drain flush and replace with one brand only and stick to it.Reccomend premix to avoid water quality issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:19:47.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:26:10.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you want to delete EGR best would be to search this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=796397&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt;, you could find usefull info there. I hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:26:10.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8994" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:31:31.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many possibilities (such as worn tie rod ends) if the vehicle has seen hard off-road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bite the bullet and see a suspension expert. Correct diagnosis will save you from replacing parts that do not need to be. As you can replace C.V.s you are obviously competent. Professional diagnosis + your labour saves time and money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T00:51:55.267" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T00:51:55.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8338" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:43:02.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no room for drill I would try to do as written in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_2086875_remove-spark-plugs-top-has.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt;. It seems that this could be a cheap solution for your problem. EZout extractor can be bought on ebay or maybe at your local house tools store. I hope it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:43:02.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8986" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:45:33.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds perfect. I would add an inspection of your tires every 6 months. You don't have to replace them every 6 months. It's just that if they're older than 3 years and they're of the &quot;budget&quot; variety, they may get brittle. Just have a quick look for cracks on the sidewall and feel for flat spots or bulges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something many people overlook is the effect of the car not heating up sufficiently because you're only doing short distances. This means that condensation in your exhaust may cause rusting and your pistons may experience a build-up of carbon. All this means for you is that you need to take a long drive once a month or so and rev the car high for a bit. Nothing major, just get it to just under red line once or twice. This should generate enough heat to burn off the carbon and will also get rid of the condensation in the exhaust. Though the latter is only really a problem in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:45:33.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:50:55.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is old school but you never know.Could be a dud s/plug.Take out plug/refit lead/out&#xA;of gear/h-brake on.Use thick gloves and place plug end on block.Have someone turn engine over and check for spark May not be your problem but good to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:50:55.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:59:14.747" Score="3" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an 3 wheeled, rear drive, electric tow truck vehicle indoors on commonly used floor tiles. It seems that when braking the vehicle some floor tiles break . Its specs are similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.afzaindia.com/sit-on-electric-tow-trucks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.afzaindia.com/sit-on-electric-tow-trucks.htm&lt;/a&gt; (but with mechanical brakes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaXj9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its rear drive and brakes also applied on rear 2 tires. Solid rubber industrial tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to find a solution as how to ensure that such issues can be completely avoided. some of the things explored are as follows but I do not have good technical review if they are really useful changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing brakes system to electro-magnetic brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change solid rubber tires to pneumatic tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase surface area of the tires (difficult)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change front tires to larger size tyres and install brakes on front&#xA;tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give suggestions and technical reasons behind such breaking of tiles. The tiles does not break even if we operate a heavy SUV car on the same floor but can break by this tow truck. One reason is also that it has loaded carts in the back that does not have their own brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4820" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T15:25:21.400" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T04:59:03.337" Title="How to reduce breaking of tiles indoors, when operating an electric tow truck" Tags="|brakes|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9043" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:15:16.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;check bushes on top and bottom of your shock absorber.As this only occurs on one wheel&#xA;it's a definite possibility.I much prefer rubber bushes for aggressive driving.Given&#xA;only four hand prints of rubber are between you and eternity why buy cheap tyres built&#xA;down to a price not up to a standard.Not knowing your vehicle or tyre construction it&#xA;is hard to provide a definitive answer.As an example;offroad tyres of light truck construction at correct pressure are very forgiving.Reputable tyre makers provide an&#xA;online calculator to inform you as to recommended tyre pressure/speed/terrain.Note-&#xA;high speed and low pressure=heat and possible tyre failure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4815" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T08:52:15.217" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T08:52:15.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:30:37.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all else fails check to see your thermostat is opening and closing at correct temps.&#xA;all you need is hot water and a thermometer.Workshop manual particular to your car&#xA;explains how.Dead easy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T08:30:37.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8328" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:59:08.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In GM engines, a cylinder #2 misfires usually indicates a bad coilpack. Not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt;. To answer your question, yes, a poor spark will sometimes cause a misfire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct way to check what's wrong is to swap two HT leads around (the cables coming from the coilpack and plugging onto the spark plugs).&lt;strong&gt;CAUTION: swap them at both ends so that you don't make them fire out of sequence&lt;/strong&gt;. If the misfire stays on the same cylinder, it's not the lead, it's the spark plug or the coilpack, else it's the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, swap two spark plugs around. If the misfire is on the same cylinder, and it's not the lead, then it's definitely the coilpack. Else it was the spark plug. Replace as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take note that a bad coilpack or HT lead will foul the spark plug in the misfiring cylinder. Best practice is to replace sparkplugs when doing the coilpack. It's also a good idea to replace the HT lead for that particular cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T08:59:08.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:00:53.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water ain't water. Depending on where you live water contains dissolved salts that deposit&#xA;scale and reduce life of components such as sacrificial items like thermostat housings.&#xA;Having said that, here in western Australia temperature often exceed 120F in the shade. I've&#xA;always used rainwater collected in a kids paddle pool, not via a metal roof or down pipe.&#xA;Another old bushys trick is to soak 200 cheap teabags in hot water. Cool, then strain through a very fine sieve and add to radiator. Look inside an old enamel or alloy teapot.&#xA;Never corrode do they! Just replaced my radiator after 38 years. Says it all doesn't it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:13:19.303" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:13:19.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9117" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:08:09.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a regulated solar panel connected to battery via alligator clips (battery cables&#xA;disconnected) rather than cig. lighter plug where wiring could be suspect.Advantage is you can lock car in garage and affix panel outside.No theft concerns or fading paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:08:09.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4742" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:18:36.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If car still brakes effectively without shuddering all should be well.Handy hint-if your car has discs and you're unsure when to change pads visually inspect.If pad material is&#xA;thinner than the backing plate time to change.In any case you should hear screecher if&#xA;they're are due but don't rely on it.Some are known to remove them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:18:36.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:24:11.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;west coast customs install gullwings regularly but laws from state to state vary.For&#xA;your own peace of mind (and safety) I would have an engineer inspect and certify.Last&#xA;thing you want is an unroadworthy tag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:24:11.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:34:49.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every vehicle owners manual tells you the frequency at which your auto-trans should&#xA;be serviced/adjusted.Very few do hence things go wrong.Hate to sound like your nanna&#xA;but ppppp (proper prevention prevents poor performance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:34:49.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:50:51.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a steel roo bar (kangaroo's endemic here) bolted to chassis using high tensile&#xA;bolts incorporating sleeves in chassis rails so they don't compress.Same applies to rock sliders.At the end of the day the purpose is to protect your radiator so you can limp&#xA;home.If putting a heavy steel bull/winch bar on a 4wd your front shocks/coils may need&#xA;upgrading to maintain ride height&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:50:51.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9050" CreationDate="2014-04-07T09:58:22.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;one option is to have an auto electrician extend wiring and remount to a higher point.Some&#xA;vehicles such as 4wds have masts at rear to mount camp lights &amp;amp; put camera there.You can&#xA;affix a cowl plastic or metal top rear of your vehicle and achieve same result.Check &#xA;sight picture before fixing in place permanently&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T09:58:22.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9229" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:13:34.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is ready to use after you've put the acid in, and you can charge it on the bike, however, better practice would be to attach it to a charger to complete the first charge... Personally, I filled my battery with acid, and attached it to the battery charger WITHOUT putting the caps on the battery in order to allow the gas to escape. When completed, I'd leave it to stand for a small while, then put the caps on, you'll get better battery life this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4735" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:13:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9022" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:18:20.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most servo attendants will offer to check your oil when engine is hot.Some will even show&#xA;you the dipstick to validate claim engine needs oil.Oldest trick in book to sell you more oil.It is then overfull causing a smoky exhaust.Always check on level ground when cold to&#xA;give accurate reading.Conversely auto-trans fluid should be checked on level ground in&#xA;park or out of gear with engine running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:18:20.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9005" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:24:13.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;paint thinners or acetone applied sparingly with a soft cloth should do the trick.Nail&#xA;polish remover is also effective&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:24:13.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9317" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:31:28.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution to this is to put down some type of thick plywood or planking on the tile. This would disperse the weight (load) on the tile. You could also try to use a different method to do whatever it is you are trying to accomplish, like maybe using the SUV as the workhorse since it doesn't break the tiles. I'm not sure how the braking system could be causing what you are suggesting. It sounds more like just the load of what you are hauling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:31:28.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8967" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:36:42.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go offroad regularly and ditched factory fuel pump in favour of one made by FACET (the&#xA;U.S. coast guard use them as do some light aircraft)I also use not  one but two cheap&#xA;plastic inline filters-give them a tap every now and then and you will hear if any&#xA;particles that may cause fuel blockages are present.May sound like overkill but it's saved&#xA;my fuel pump more than once&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:36:42.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:46:55.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;most diesel vehicles have a fuel/water separator some with an audible alarm if not &#xA;they are available aftermarket.Be worth enquiring if these are compatible with gasoline&#xA;engines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:46:55.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8803" CreationDate="2014-04-07T10:54:59.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use paper elements and if in dusty conditions remove regularly (every day if seriously&#xA;dusty) and clean out with an air hose from the inside out.They are so cheap regular &#xA;replacement is cost effective&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T10:54:59.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8680" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:15:03.510" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;as mentioned fuel pressure between injector and pump is high;can exceed 20,000p.s.i.&#xA;and literally cut your finger off or blind you.Same result as cutting steel with water.&#xA;Workshop manual online or from local library (possibly) is a good resource&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:15:03.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9264" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:16:45.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the newer Ford is not stopping as quickly as the Mazda did, I recommend you get it checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS on newer cars might be smoother so you're not noticing it, but stopping distance should be at least on par with the older car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:16:45.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8546" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:43:18.247" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;as suggested check at ambient temp. Do not rely on gauges at your local servo.A decent&#xA;gauge showing both metric and imperial pressures is under $30 and a good investment &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:43:18.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9359" CreationDate="2014-04-07T12:26:02.703" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Im still pretty new to driving stick. However even if I feather the clutch to get it rolling from a stop it always vibrates the car a little bit when I get close to the catch point. I've tried doing it SUPER slow and the car still vibrates a little bit, it's especially prevalent when going in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Im very paranoid about damaging my car since it vibrates some. I've gotten pretty good at going from Stop--&gt;1st without vibration (giving it a little gas). But in reverse it's difficult since giving it any gas just shoots you into reverse quite fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I hurting my car when it vibrates like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2014 GTI (VW)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4822" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:29:00.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:29:00.213" Title="Clutch Catch Point Car Shudder?" Tags="|vw|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8670" CreationDate="2014-04-07T12:27:59.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy the used parts. $4500 is almost the price of an entire car. If you want to save lots of money, do the paint prep work yourself. You'll need to watch an instructional video on doing it properly, but it's basically LOTS of sanding with various grades of sandpaper and possibly filling dents in with body-filler. It's a long and tedious job, but you'll feel good for having completed it. Just remember that if you don't feel like spending a couple of hours sanding a bumper or hood, then rather pay someone to do it. Either do it right, or have someone do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really brave, you could even get an aftermarket shop to mix the paint for you and apply it yourself. Though you must be VERY careful to do it properly according to instructions. You MUST use a good primer. You MUST apply lots of very thing layers, waiting a couple of minutes between layers. You MUST sand down imperfections between applications. You MUST apply a good high-gloss to finish off. Finally: you MUST polish afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the grille, it's a very easy job to do yourself. But do it last, for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do one thing at a time. Rather spend extra time doing one thing properly than rushing the whole job and having it look bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T12:27:59.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:07:29.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;longer wheel base generally equals softer ride particularly with rear leaf springs.&#xA;A vehicle such as a s.w.b. landcruiser has shorter arc leaf springs= less articulation&#xA;= harsher ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:07:29.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:17:57.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All depends on manufacturer. Some warranty tyres from date of manufacture some from date fitted. Ask! Also to prolong life use tyre black/rotate as manual specifies/regularly&#xA;check tyre pressures/try and avoid locking up brakes on cars pre-ABS, as you can&#xA;create flat spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:11:09.200" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:11:09.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:25:33.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars have a grille just forward of your w/screen. If so, remove the access drain tubes inside plenum chamber to far left and right. Usually it takes a child size hand to reach, so you can insert a hose and flush. Good move is to lift floor coverings first. Don't forget to check weep holes under your doors either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="15611" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T13:35:11.503" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T13:35:11.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:57:12.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found out by searching for trouble codes that DR could be related to Data Register, but somehow I can´t figure out how this can be related to power windows and this still didn´t solved my question, is here someone skilled enough to help me? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:57:12.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:39:25.767" Score="1" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the alternator on my Toyota Tacoma V6 4L and I noticed an ungodly amount of gunk collected on and around the old one.  The truck is 2007 with just over 100K mi on it.  The old alternator had literally 1/2&quot; of greasy, muddy, black gunk over it but also on other pulleys around that area (tensioner, idlers, AC pump etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something normal for a truck this old or is it a sign of some problem?  Should the front part of under the hood (so the radiator and the serpentine belt hang-ons) be taken apart every once in a while and cleaned to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:50:03.363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:27:50.777" Title="Serpentine belt area has insane amount of gunk" Tags="|maintenance|cleaning|belt|grease|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9358" CreationDate="2014-04-07T17:06:51.650" Score="3" ViewCount="1531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke the screw that holds the fluid hose going into my power steering pump.  It is a 10 or 12 mm screw head.  What came out is the head plus maybe a quarter inch while the rest is stuck inside.  Is there a way to take the stuck part out, maybe by drilling?  Or will I pretty much have to buy a new pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T17:29:25.393" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T17:29:25.393" Title="Is there a way to remove a broken screw?" Tags="|screw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9357" CreationDate="2014-04-07T17:17:34.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, the easiest way to extract the screw is with a screw extractor. Here is a video on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt; which should explain it pretty good for you. Basically so you know, you drill out the bolt, then put the screw extractor in the hole, then unscrew the broke part. You have to be very careful with your drilling, but this is about the only way you have to get it out besides replacing the entire thing as you've suggested. There are several different types, but the most recognized name brand is the Easy Out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T17:17:34.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9348" CreationDate="2014-04-07T19:04:02.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be a case of the clutch still needing to be broke in and/or &quot;bedded&quot;, but if it continues doing it after 500 to 1000 miles, I'd take it back to the dealership to have it looked over. You should not be causing any issues with the engine or the car, but that also depends on the level of vibration that you are feeling. If you have a friend who is very used to a VW stick (of about the same year), you might have them drive it and see what they think. A small amount of shudder is not necessarily a bad thing, but a lot is not good (all subjective). For your edification, bedding (which I referred to above) is the process of breaking in the clutch (can also apply to brakes), where it has to go through several hundred miles worth of heating/cooling cycles to totally cure the friction material which is used. If you are too hard on it, it can wear out prematurely. All-in-all, just take it as easy as you can on the clutch with most of this period being city driving (if possible). If you continue to have the issue even after the time given, the dealership has the obligation to do fix the issue. This is called the &quot;adjustment period&quot;, which they may have told you about when you purchased the vehicle. (Dealerships I worked at usually gave a 12 month adjustment period). If it gives you problems after this point, it should be covered under the powertrain warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T19:04:02.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2014-04-07T19:15:45.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for a tire company.  They've done extensive testing, in a warehouse, tires are good for a long time.  So much so that they've successfully kept away any legislation mandating a timeline of how long they should last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have regularly sold tires up to 5 years old, and that is to a wholesaler (which means they could sit for an additional amount of time before being sold, and then be used for several years after that). Almost all manufacturers regularly and without discounts, sell to 3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly wouldn't worry about it if you plan on using them regularly. If you keep them properly inflated they will last to wear before you experience the breakdown in rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4823" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T19:15:45.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2014-04-07T23:48:58.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lock and unlock the door 5 times. See this post: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harikari.com/technology/volvo-xc70-immobilizer-see-manual.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.harikari.com/technology/volvo-xc70-immobilizer-see-manual.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4826" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T23:48:58.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9388" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:41:30.280" Score="19" ViewCount="58438" Body="&lt;p&gt;So...lugging the engine obviously isn't something that is good. But why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example when you feather a clutch to get the car moving, it lugs for a quick moment when you hit the catch point (When giving it no gas). Or at least it does in my car (2014 VW GTI). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a really bad habit, I only feather it when im moving slowly in say....traffic jams, or drive throughs and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4822" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:18:07.963" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T17:10:45.997" Title="Lugging the Engine (Manual Transmission)" Tags="|engine|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9779" CreationDate="2014-04-08T15:26:15.413" Score="3" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha XJ6 from 2012 and I would like to change the exhaust.&#xA;But I have a choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I change only the muffler or the whole &quot;line&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than cost what are the pros and cons of changing the muffler vs. the whole line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4828" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T16:13:23.383" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T08:53:15.303" Title="Changing the exhaust on a motorbike" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9067" CreationDate="2014-04-08T16:40:51.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM52851U/pdf/sec_2-2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Toyota&lt;/a&gt; it's a low engine coolant temperature indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHVGw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like they refer to the light in the instructions on what to do when you car overheats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM52851U/pdf/sec_5-2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See page 321 here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uitpX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T17:04:39.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T17:04:39.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9369" CreationDate="2014-04-08T17:07:12.377" Score="4" ViewCount="3314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider three cars. All three cars have different engines, but all engines are 3 lit. V6s. The engine in first car is made for great gas mileage. The engine in second car is made to be able to tow high loads. And finally the engine in the last car is made to perform at a race track. Without the use of turbochargers and supercharger, without changing displacements, what is different in the engines of these three cars that makes them suitable for their respective applications? Let's also forget the rest of the car for now, (transmission, chasis, springs e.t.c)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question, how does the torque vary at low, medium and high rpms in these three different applications - 1. high gas mileage, 2. high tow capacity, 3. high speed performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My third question is, what are the pros and cons of a V configuration over an Inline setup, assuming same displacement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4829" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T18:16:09.170" Title="How are the engines of street cars different from trucks and performance cars?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9370" CreationDate="2014-04-08T18:10:27.960" Score="5" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if there is a point to bleeding the brakes if the system is never opened, since it's effectively a closed system. For example, does the chemical change should the fluid reach boiling point release gas? Or should one change the fluid periodically because of some type of degradation, which really falls under the category of flush and not &lt;em&gt;bleed&lt;/em&gt;, but the process is similar from what I understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:45:42.550" Title="Is it necessary to bleed brakes if the system is never opened?" Tags="|maintenance|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9367" CreationDate="2014-04-08T18:16:09.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is different in the engines of these three cars that makes them suitable for their respective applications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first misconception you need to manage is, vehicles as you've described are purpose built to maximize the different function. In other words, you really do have to consider the transmissions, rear-differentials, and tires when looking at these. You cannot separate them and hope to have any kind of &quot;real&quot; answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, theoretically, you could have the same basic engine for each of your models and still accomplish the same task. This is because of gearing in both the transmission and rear differential (or transaxle if so equipped). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest differences between the three engines is going to be the camshaft(s) and tuning. There is not enough room in this post to go into the differences, of which, I'm no expert, so couldn't give you a &quot;concise&quot; answer to the differences needed.  Secondarily, you'll have differences in intake and exhaust manifolds. Different intake runners will give you differences in where torque will happen (when put in conjunction with camshaft pattern). The same goes with exhaust. Performance engines will use exhaust manifolds which will get rid of the exhaust gases easier, so the engine can spin higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does the torque vary at low, medium and high rpms in these three different applications - 1. high gas mileage, 2. high tow capacity, 3. high speed performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) An engine which is being used to get good gas mileage is going to have a torque curve which will peak quickly with a medium range torque and maintain that torque over a long range (from say 2000-5000 rpm). 2.) An engine which is being used to tow, will have peak torque early and then drop off quickly. This is why diesel engines are used in trucks. They have massive torque down low and live below 2000 rpm. Torque is what's considered to get a vehicle moving. 3.) An engine which is used at the track is made to spin higher (attain higher rpm), where you're not as worried about torque down low, but will peak toward the upper end of the rpm range. This produces more horsepower -- &lt;code&gt;hp = (rpm * torque)/5252 is the equation&lt;/code&gt; -- and horsepower is what keeps us going once we get moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of a V configuration over an Inline setup, assuming same displacement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major reason for the difference for a V style engine over an inline engine, is the V engine will be able to do its work in a smaller space (engine bay) than an inline engine will because it is physically shorter. Taking this out to its maximum, take a look at the W16 configuration which is used in supercars. Very expensive to build, but can fit into about the same space as a V8 can. Same idea of more cylinders in the same amount of space. An inline engine will normally have more torque, while a V configuration will usually be able to spin faster. Older inline engines had the problem of fuel distribution, where the end cylinders usually ran lean due to their distance from the carburetor. With the advent of electronic fuel injection, this problem has been pretty much eliminated (and thus a resurgence of I5 &amp;amp; I6 engines). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are some general thoughts about the questions you asked, as there is much more involved with what you are asking, particularly with the vehicle itself. While you didn't want to include transmissions, gearing, tires, mass, or anything else, these are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important to how you want the vehicle to behave and it's intended uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T18:16:09.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9368" CreationDate="2014-04-08T18:28:20.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid by nature is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. Even though it is considered a closed system, it doesn't mean it isn't hermetically sealed. Brake fluid will absorb water, have no doubt. You should change your brake fluid once a year or there about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the brake fluid absorbs water, it becomes less tolerant of heat, meaning it boils at a lower temperature. When you step on the brakes, you are exchanging motion to create heat, which the brake fluid must be able to tolerate. Here is a chart of the different DOT's used for autos (pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        Dry boiling point   Wet boiling point   Viscosity limit     Primary constituent&#xA;DOT 2   190 °C (374 °F)     140 °C (284 °F)      ?                  Castor oil/alcohol&#xA;DOT 3   205 °C (401 °F)     140 °C (284 °F)     1500 mm2/s          Glycol Ether&#xA;DOT 4   230 °C (446 °F)     155 °C (311 °F)     1800 mm2/s          Glycol Ether/Borate Ester&#xA;DOT 5   260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)     900 mm2/s           Silicone&#xA;DOT5.1  260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)     900 mm2/s           Glycol Ether/Borate Ester&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid also needs to be changed to reduce corrosion in the brake lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right in that the process is pretty much exactly the same between flushing and bleeding. If you change a part which requires you to &lt;em&gt;bleed&lt;/em&gt; your system, you may as well flush it while you are at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T18:38:39.463" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T18:38:39.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T19:56:46.260" Score="0" ViewCount="2321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a set of high quality metal drill bits.  Usually, drill bits out there on the market are not classified for metal vs. wood and other softer materials.  Are some drill bits better for automotive work and metal applications than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T07:25:48.127" Title="Are some drill bits better for mechanical (metal) work than others?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9398" CreationDate="2014-04-09T00:41:49.573" Score="7" ViewCount="84940" Body="&lt;p&gt;It only happens rarely.. but sometimes when stepping down the gas&#xA;it would suddenly max out the speed gauge, and you hear the very loud engine&#xA;noise as if i stepped down the gas all the way, but what is weird is the&#xA;fact that car doesn't accelerate much if any at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it happened twice during the past month, no pattern in when this happens other&#xA;than stepping on the gas like you normally would..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to suggestion on what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:25:48.773" Title="I have an issue with Stepping on gas and no increase in speed" Tags="|engine|transmission|fuel-system|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T03:01:55.450" Score="3" ViewCount="4582" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my battery light on my 2004 explorer is coming on intermittently (block light with a plus and minus symbol). Recently my battery died while I was at work, and after I got a jump I took it to O'Reilly and they tested my starter, battery, and alternator - all of which checked out fine. So, what caused my battery to die? And why is this light coming on? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4832" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T10:01:45.723" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T14:13:39.207" Title="Ford Explorer Dash Light" Tags="|ford|battery|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9372" CreationDate="2014-04-09T07:12:12.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your clutch slips probably, soon or later you won´t be able to accelerate anymore, just to be sure I understood it like that, you step on gas pedal, rpm´s get high, no acceleration, then when you step out a bit it catches and car starts to accelerate again, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T07:12:12.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9371" CreationDate="2014-04-09T07:25:48.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the below image of three drill bits. The one on the left is a masonry/concrete bit. The one in the middle is a steel bit. The one on the right is a wood/plastic bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The masonry bit is used along with a hammer action to chip a hole, rather than cutting. The steel bit was designed to shave away layers of metal. The wood bit does much the same as the steel bit, but the sharp tip first anchors the bit, followed by the forward-swept ears cutting a circle around the edge before shaving away the wood/plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various fancy-looking bits out there, but the trick is still to look at the very tip to discern what it's meant to accomplish. Concrete will always need to be chipped away, steel and wood will need to be shaved. Wood needs a pilot tip to prevent following the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVtPI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T07:25:48.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6116" CreationDate="2014-04-09T08:00:40.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an ArkPak (made in Australia) that will house any battery up to 130amp/hrs. Can be charged in car/or via 240v adaptor or solar panels. Can be hard wired into car. Has inbuilt &#xA;150w inverter/pos. and neg. terminals/2x cigarette plugs type 12v ports/pure sine wave so&#xA;you can run laptop/charge phone or camera. Decided advantage is that if not hard wired&#xA;you can use it around the house during power outages. Great for running portable fridges&#xA;too. Retails for $399. Check out sales@arkcorporation.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T01:23:23.133" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T01:23:23.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6160" CreationDate="2014-04-09T08:20:50.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short no.Any competent 4x4 shop will tell you.Bear in mind big lifts raise centre&#xA;of gravity which will impair stability particularly with a laden roof rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T08:20:50.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5993" CreationDate="2014-04-09T08:46:06.277" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;with so many accessories being fitted to most fourbys power demands are higher.Lets assume&#xA;you are upgrading from a 55amp alternator to 110amp.Upgrading your wiring is not only&#xA;important it is critical.Electricity causes heat and if cable can't handle load placed&#xA;upon it the cable can melt.To calculate voltage drop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;length x current x 0.017&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;volts=voltage drop&#xA;length=total length of wire in metres&#xA;current=amps through wire&#xA;area=copper wire thickness in millimetres squared-most car makers use minimum allowable&#xA;wire thickness.Huge cost savings when multiplied by millions of cars made&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4815" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T11:39:44.520" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T11:39:44.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2014-04-09T09:03:35.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern cars including 4x4 have the air intake low down forward of the front wheel well which is far from ideal.A good rule of thumb (assuming you have raised air intake&#xA;such as with a snorkel) is for a petrol vehicle at the appropriate speed you can safely&#xA;negotiate water to half the height of your tyre-for a diesel to top of tyre.A car bra&#xA;also creates a bow wave and prevents a lot of water intrusion.A cheap tarp and occy&#xA;straps will do the trick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T09:03:35.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2014-04-09T11:47:07.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be caused by ignition cables, coils, plugs, I have had the same problem in my Skoda Octavia ´00, in the morning it was like one of cylinders is not having a spark, combustion was very bad and power was reduces but only for max 5 minutes, then after engine got heated a bit it disapeared, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also this problem is related to damaged gasket under the cylinder head when there is not sufficient pressure, it get worse by time. Measure a pressure at each cylinder and you should know better then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T11:47:07.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9135" CreationDate="2014-04-09T13:42:58.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For front disc brakes there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_wear_indicator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brake wear indicator&lt;/a&gt; that will start rubbing when the pads are nearly worn out.  If the disc is bit warped or misshapen it may first touch just one part of the disc, and can give the once per revolution sound you are describing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T13:42:58.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2014-04-09T14:06:43.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;K.B.S coatings make a 3 step kit to clean, blast and reseal tanks. It involves tank removal, (a compressor aids in one part of process - I used a hair dryer) and is suitable for cars and bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:57:14.777" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:57:14.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2014-04-09T14:22:41.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My H.I.D. plug and play light upgrade cost me $350 (easy install) and is superior in every way compared to usual factory fit.They don't run hot and as every car I have owned has adjusting screws on headlight surround meeting legal requirements should not be a problem.&#xA;Makers of these kits usually advise starting engine before turning the headlights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T09:01:51.830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T09:01:51.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9421" CreationDate="2014-04-09T17:44:20.650" Score="3" ViewCount="3133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a borrowed cultivator (Echo TC-2100), and having hard time running it. It looks fairly new, and in good condition, but was possibly poorly stored and was not winterized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I could not start it at all. I checked the spark, and it was weak, and, moreover, the plug porcelain jacked was cracked and ignition was shorting a bit (I was feeling it while touching the cable even in heavy leather gloves). I replaced it, the spark was sort of weak still (even in comparison to other small engines), but I was able to get it to start (not sure that could be the issue still).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I got it to the point where I can start it every time with choke on, but it would not hold the idle on choke for long, and otherwise, as soon as I drop the choke it dies, sometimes trying to stay alive. It would not idle, and would struggle and die if I try to throttle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is emission-restricted model, so the carb adjustments are limited with plastic caps, and I had adjusted them as per manual (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.echo-usa.com/getattachment/86d5a24c-f793-495a-8bc3-c8f6e290bb57/TC2100T1T1Ees_021100.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;). Other issues I see are a) primer bulb cracked and seem to leak air (how much of an impact would it do?), b) fuel filter can be clogged, and c) carb main jets could be clogged. I would like to understand the symptoms better, and find the cause before I start putting money into replacing parts for the unit that is not mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T13:27:08.457" Title="Small two-stroke engine runs poor" Tags="|starting|rough-idle|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9364" CreationDate="2014-04-09T19:06:36.217" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lugging an engine is like hammering the engine parts with every explosion in a cylinder. It racks on the rod bearing/journals, makes the pistons slap the side of the cylinders hard, and if is done enough, could probably break piston rings. It also creates a hammer effect all the way through the drivetrain. There are springs in the friction disk (of the clutch) which takes up some of this hammering, but they will only take so much before they wear out as well. This causes premature wear all the way around. It's not like it will wear out tomorrow, but it will cause wear over time. If you want your car to last a while, you don't want to be doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the major problem with what you are doing is, you aren't doing it right. It sounds like you are just trying to take off from a stop (or slow roll) without revving the engine at all. You should bring the engine up in rpm to around 1500 to 2000 rpm when starting to slip the clutch. You should get used to slipping the clutch in either situation (stopped or slow roll) no matter where you are at. To get it down, you should press on the pedals like you would a bicycle. Basically, as you press on one, you should allow the other to come up, so: gas pedal down slightly while allowing the clutch pedal to come out; and visa-versa - clutch pedal down while allowing the gas pedal to come out. Over time and experience, this becomes second nature. You will figure out (mainly by feel) where the engine needs to be at in speed in order to get the car moving. This will keep you from lugging the engine at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/soJea7xEt-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engineering Explained video&lt;/a&gt; about lugging your engine and why it's bad. He gets a lot more technical than I did above, adds to what I've said, but it definitely concurs with it (I believe). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T17:10:45.997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T17:10:45.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T19:13:01.353" Score="0" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue with my polo, the lock on the drivers door won't unlock but will lock once it's been unlocked via the passenger door using the same key. The key just spins infinately. It used to spin once or twice but eventually will unlock. Now it doesn't unlock at all.  I don't have an problems starting the car with the key either.  The switch inside the car on the drivers door works fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="2183" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T19:29:14.117" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:21:40.503" Title="polo 2012 - driver door won't unlock with key but will lock" Tags="|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9392" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:07:03.187" Score="2" ViewCount="4346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle:  Toyota Tacoma 2007 V6 4WD 4L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accidentally (ignorantly) put regular power steering fluid in the reservoir after needing to take the pump out but I took it out again and drained the reservoir. However, I am not sure if there is still some left downstream in the rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be OK if I just refill the currently empty tank with DEXRON-III or do I need to further bleed or even flush the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T21:53:26.660" Title="Accidentally put regular PS fluid instead of DEXRON-III" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9403" CreationDate="2014-04-09T20:57:28.220" Score="1" ViewCount="13020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every morning when I release the emergency brake, the light on the dashboard stays on.  At times I apply and release as hard as I can and the light goes off.  During the day, there is no issue with the light. I'm guessing there is a loose connection.  If so, where do I go about checking the connection?  If not, what else could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2966" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T10:58:54.117" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T12:51:23.553" Title="Nissan Altima Intermittent Emergency brake warning light" Tags="|nissan|handbrake|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9390" CreationDate="2014-04-09T21:18:44.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there will be any issues with it, but if it's available to you, I would take it to a shop and have it flushed. This will get rid almost any residual PS fluid which might be left in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you run it with the PS fluid in the reservoir before you changed it? If you just dumped it in, then drained it from the pump before you ran it, then you'll be just fine. If you did run it, it will need to be flushed. This is not something you can easily do as a DIY and get all of the PS fluid out, for a lot of reasons. But if you are insistent on doing it, this is what you'd need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the front end up on jackstands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a drain pan under the steering rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the return side hose from your PS pump, letting it hang down below the steering rack and into the drain pan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By hand, turn the PS pump until all fluid is pumped out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the wheels by hand (lock to lock), back and forth until no more fluid comes out of the PS return hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reattach the return hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the reservoir with Dexron III fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the wheels by hand (lock to lock), back and forth several times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top off the reservoir&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine and gently cycle the steering back and forth, lock to lock ... DO NOT CRAMP THE STEERING!! (Cramping is where you continue to put pressure on the steering wheel at the end of the range of motion --- you can hear the belt squeal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 9 &amp;amp; 10 until you no longer need to put fluid in it &lt;strong&gt;NOTE: DO NOT OVER FILL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the front end back on the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this will get you done. There may be a slight residual in there, but nothing you'll need to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T21:53:26.660" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T21:53:26.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T21:20:10.853" Score="4" ViewCount="6198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my car in and out of the shop for several weeks and I'm really becoming very frustrated.  I don't really know ANYTHING about cars, but about a month ago the car would sporadically have trouble maintaining gas flow (The RPM would teeter around 1 and then go down to 0 and shut off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first mechanic said that they fixed the problem by replacing the battery leads (that cost $90).  The next day the car stalled on a main road and I was able to get it to a national brand car shop. They diagnosed the problem as needing a new fuel injector and pump (the diagnosis was $125) and they estimated the problem would be well over $900 to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got the car home and debating my options (that is a lot of money to put into a fairly old car with lots of miles). I ended up taking the car back to the first mechanic and told him what the second mechanic said was wrong. He couldn't find this problem with his computer tests, but did end up replacing the fuel injector and pump (for $700).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the car back for a few days now and I am STILL having struggles with starting the car and it occasionally stopping while driving (like it isn't getting gas).  I am really so frustrated and upset that the problem is still acting up, especially after all the money I have spent (almost $1,000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have just sold the car off instead of fixing it if I had known it was going to cause this many problems.  Can anyone tell me what they think could be going on and causing the car to still stall and not start properly? I am going crazy. I don't really know the first thing about cars, but I just feel so frustrated by the problem not being fixed with all the money spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: April 17th&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to offer the vacuum leak as an idea to the mechanic. They ordered the mass flow sensor but it didn't fix it so luckily I wont be charged for that. Unfortunately, they said they &quot;just don't know what's wrong with it.&quot; They have a professor of mechanics at a local tech school coming in to take a look at it. It is very discouraging news, because over 1,000$ and more than 3 weeks later and I still don't have a working car. I just have to sit and wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4836" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T01:32:04.157" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T15:27:24.970" Title="2004 Mercury Sable -Trouble with starting and stalling" Tags="|rough-idle|stall|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T23:17:18.390" Score="-6" ViewCount="1966" Body="&lt;p&gt;i need help with c++ program, if either the airbag is triggered or the deceleration detected is greater than 5 Gs, we consider that an accident occurred. The vehicle decides to ask  nearby by sendig SMS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:42:20.797" Title="using OBD II how can i detect an accident with airbag" Tags="|obd-ii|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2014-05-22T17:08:46.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9400" CreationDate="2014-04-10T04:25:41.553" Score="3" ViewCount="7603" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Honda Civic EX here.  When I start my car, my battery dash light has been staying on usually until I get onto the highway, then it will turn off.  If I hit a stop sign or red light, then it'll come right back on.  Is the alternator the culprit here and why does driving faster make the light disappear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T10:41:51.097" Title="Battery dash light comes on when starting car then disappears while driving" Tags="|honda|electrical|battery|civic|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2014-04-10T05:42:00.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many OEMs offer several filters of similar construction, so no compromise need be made on quality or basic performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things being equal, a larger filter has two key benefits - 1) more oil capacity in the system, which helps extend useful life, and keep temperatures down, 2) more filter area means greater dirt holding capacity and therefore greater filtered flow for longer, before filter media saturation and bypass valve actuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that matters beyond these factors is fitment, burst strength, and most importantly bypass opening pressure value. Fitment is straight forward, burst strength is rarely much of a concern, and bypass opening pressure is often published, or can be determined by dissecting a filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally however, the OE filter design should be more than adequate for the average user, and this is more a matter for people interested in maximizing every detail of their vehicle performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4841" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T12:21:00.403" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T12:21:00.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9372" CreationDate="2014-04-10T10:13:46.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With your added information, this sounds like there is a definite problem with the transmission. Your description leads me to believe it probably has something to do with the clutches being worn out in conjunction with low line pressures (or some such). I would definitely believe the transmission is due for an overhaul. If you pull the dipstick, does the transmission fluid smell burnt and/or appear dark brown in color? If so, this is another tell tale sign. The soft parts in an automatic transmission will only last so long before they start exhibiting these types of problems. I would highly doubt there is anything wrong with the engine (at this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T10:13:46.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9395" CreationDate="2014-04-10T10:41:51.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think the alternator is the culprit, You can take your car down to an Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly, Autozone (or the like) where they will test it for free. They can also check your battery, which may be the culprit, but I doubt it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the internal regulator is going out (or you might have lost one or more diodes) on the alternator. When you spin the engine higher (as in going down the road), the alternator has the ability to put out more current due to it spinning faster as well. It is directly connected to the engine crank speed, though it is proportional faster due to having a smaller diameter pulley than the crank pulley of the engine. As your speeds up, so does the alternator. Typically, an alternator puts out ~14.1vdc with a fully charged battery. If your alternator is putting out only 8vdc (just an example), the light may come on suggesting there is a problem. As the engine speeds up, it might get up to an acceptable realm, say 12vdc, and the light goes out. Then when you slow down, the alternator again is back down at the lower level. You could possibly test this when sitting still by reving the engine (in neutral or park) to 2000-2500 rpm and see if the light goes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T10:41:51.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9391" CreationDate="2014-04-10T13:50:15.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first port of call should be your brake fluid reservoir. The emergency brake light will stay on if the brake fluid level is low (which could happen if your brake pads are wearing thin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T13:50:15.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:25:15.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to pinpoint the exact reason for your idling issues without further information or knowledge of your Mercury Sable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a common cause for idling/stalling is a perished/broken/cracked/disconnected vacuum line that results in a vacuum leak. Vacuum lines are essential in maintaining engine idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix would involve identifying any disconnected/perished lines and connecting/replacing them as need be. If you know where the vacuum lines are, a rudimentary test to check for vacuum leaks involves spraying carb cleaner around the vacuum lines. If you notice a change in engine RPM, this indicates the presence of a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:25:15.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9394" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:42:20.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be specific to each vehicle Manufacturer and some specific to make and model. It's not covered in OBD-II and is propitiatory for each manufacturer. You might be able to detect by monitoring the CAN buss but again it will be specific to each manufacturer. You may be better off using your own G-force sensor to determine if there has been an accident, although you want the threshold to be much lower than 5 G's. The sensor type varies but all but rollover sensors measure G-force, and require two separate sensors to close at the same time, sometimes called an arming and discriminating sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:42:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9373" CreationDate="2014-04-10T15:45:35.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery symbol lights up that usually means &quot;Check Alternator&quot;. You can confirm this by consulting your vehicle's owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible for bad alternators to produce too much current. In such situations, most modern cars protect the battery with an overcharge-protection system that stops the current supply from the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of failure would explain the presence of the &quot;Check Alternator&quot; light and you battery going flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that when the alternator was tested the engine was idling, at which point the current  being generated was acceptable (current increases with engine load). This would explain why the alternator checked out OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to confirm an over-charging alternator would be to measure the voltage across the alternator with the engine under load. In my experience, 17-18 V is deemed too high by GM vehicles. You may want to investigate if Ford provides a (usually hidden) diagnostic on-board cluster menu that reads out battery voltage in real time. Even if there is none available, a multimeter could be used to measure the voltage as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T15:45:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2014-04-10T17:48:45.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens to me as well in my '06 HHR. For me, it's really just only when doing a small right turn I think. Lefts seem to go ok. When I was getting a heater core replacement, the mechanic that did it forgot to plug in a part of the airbag system, so I took it back, after which the turn signal would never turn off automatically no matter how I turned. After I took it back the second time, it was back to its old way (darn) so it may be a little more complex than just looking at the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, if it's getting pretty bad for you, you'll want to take it into a mechanic. For my particular car, they need to do a lot to get at the steering column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're completing a turn though, try sticking your hand out towards the turn signal stick. I've gotten in to that habit so my hand catches the stick as I straighten out my steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:48:45.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2229" CreationDate="2014-04-10T18:25:24.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Door lock actuators are notorious for failing on the E39 5-series. I expect it is the same part used on the E38 7-series as well. The actuator needs changing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T18:25:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8734" CreationDate="2014-04-10T19:04:05.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As there is no mention of any special procedure to undo these bolts in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e36/318tds_m41_sal/2_repair_instructions/11__engine_%28m41%29/61__intake_manifold/1_ra__removing_and_installing_intake_air_manifold_%28m41%29/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TIS workshop manual&lt;/a&gt;, I would use something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00OVV0ZRM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, a pivoting combination wrench/spanner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CD2H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CD2H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flexible Ratchet Spanner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pivot should allow you to overcome the relative lack of space, while the ratcheting mechanism should save you oodles of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T10:34:47.837" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T10:34:47.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9415" CreationDate="2014-04-10T19:25:59.277" Score="5" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very confused when it comes to distinguishing between the different grades of red and blue Loctite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the different grades of Loctite intended for different torque ratings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which Loctite(s) is/are the most universal for automotive DIY maintenance/repairs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2019-01-09T10:10:05.333" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T10:10:05.333" Title="What types of thread-locking Loctite do I need to be aware of as an automotive DIY-er?" Tags="|tools|thread|threadlocker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9419" CreationDate="2014-04-10T19:26:57.803" Score="5" ViewCount="34489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should preface this by saying that I'm a relatively brand new driver, and I know next to nothing about cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2005 Chrysler Sebring, and I've noticed just today that &lt;strong&gt;when I put the ignition into whatever mode it is that lets me control the power windows and listen to the radio without actually turning on the motor&lt;/strong&gt; (I turn the key slightly forward -- I'm assuming this is not the accessory mode as when I turn the key backward, the radio comes on but the power windows do not...) &lt;strong&gt;the check engine and oil pressure lights come on and stay on. However, when I turn the engine on, the lights go off.&lt;/strong&gt; All other diagnostic lights are off before turning on the engine. It is only these two that stay on until I turn on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the oil level just to see if it may be off, and I can't be 100% sure of the actual oil level due to my driveway being not being properly level... but it looked to be just slightly down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this expected to happen given that the engine is off? Do the diagnostics only work when the engine is running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4846" LastEditorUserId="4846" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T19:39:57.843" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T21:10:21.033" Title="Do the Check Engine and Oil Pressure lights have any significance when the engine is off?" Tags="|oil|cel|chrysler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9481" CreationDate="2014-04-10T19:28:55.077" Score="6" ViewCount="60606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda accord 2008 which has performed well until recently. On my may to work I noticed my car wasn't accelerating as usual; it had this feel like it was dragging. On parking, I noticed smoke on my left rear tire. However, i thought nothing of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going home in the evening while on the freeway, my car started decelerating and the brake pedal became very hard. Pulling to the side of the road, I shut restarted the engine but i could not move the car so I loosened the calipers and got some normal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what might have gone wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4847" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T18:21:19.297" Title="Brakes locking up while driving" Tags="|honda|brakes|accord|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9412" CreationDate="2014-04-10T19:29:01.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot think of any car that does not illuminate the engine/oil symbols when the key is in the ON position with the engine off. It is perfectly normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T19:29:01.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9411" CreationDate="2014-04-10T21:08:00.700" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When and what to use is sometimes specified by the part manufacturer and sometimes it is just intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have something that keeps getting loose and you've done what you can to minimize the vibration you need a threadlocker. It is not a Band-Aid product. If you have a bent drive shaft that vibrates the bolts loose you need to fix the problem not just lock the bolts down so they won't ever come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three kinds I keep on hand are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loctite 222&lt;/strong&gt; for small screws and bolts generally under 1/4&quot;. Using a stronger compound on small hardware may cause them to break before you can loosen them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loctite 242&lt;/strong&gt; for general purpose use. It is considered medium strength. I use it on hardware that I will have to remove at some point but that sees some vibration. Think of things like a transmission mounting bolt or driveshaft &quot;U&quot; bolts in a light duty vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loctite 262&lt;/strong&gt; for hardware subject to  higher vibrations. This I would use on off-road or heavy duty use items like the &quot;U&quot; bolts that attach the axle tubes the springs, trailer hitch to frame mounting bolts and others items that may not see a lot of vibration but are likely to be installed and rarely removed. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T09:26:13.690" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T09:26:13.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9412" CreationDate="2014-04-10T21:29:55.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically this is a bulb test. The CEL and Oil pressure light stay on until the engine is cranked. Air bag lights, ABS lights as well as others flash a certain number of times or stay on for a few seconds then turn off. This is normal operation for those lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T21:29:55.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-10T23:14:53.110" Score="3" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to locate a wiring harness for my new stereo that I want to install into my 2000 Chevy Cavalier, but I'm having a difficult time find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a after market harness that would fit my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:55:46.080" Title="Radio Wiring Harness for a 2000 Chevy Cavalier" Tags="|audio|wiring|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2014-04-11T01:04:39.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a few things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not buying the vacuum leak idea, as engines that have vacuum leaks normally run terribly, as they are running too lean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you said that they replaced the fuel injectors, so assuming you didnt get hosed, they are fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is a fuel filter. If one of these gets plugged, it wont run at all, but bits of debris can plug it intermittently. Im surprised they havent replaced this as a first step. I would have done it before the injectors. If you can't get the car to die by flooring the throttle, it would be my guess that this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next problem could be the fuel pump, if the system isnt being pressurized,  the injectors cant accomodate for the load, and the engine will die. You can test this by flooring the gas pedal. If the engine dies, it is a pump problem (assuming injectors are new)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst case is a dead computer. If the computer isnt working right, they are expensive to replace. You might be able to score one off a crashed/scrap car, but I wouldnt really trust it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you worry about replacing the computer, or anything else,  think about cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor,  as an incorrect reading here might be causing fuel supply problems, if if it isnt throwing a code. This isnt hard, you mostly just unplug the unit and spray it with a can of cleaner. If you search for an engine diagram on your car, it will show it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines only need 3 things to work: Spark, Air, Fuel. Too little of any of the 3, and the car wont run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T01:04:39.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9412" CreationDate="2014-04-11T10:31:14.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal behavior - When the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure, so when the ignition is turned on, that light will be on. As Larry says, this functions as a bulb test so that you know that it is working. When you start the engine, the oil is pumped round, the pressure goes up and the light goes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T10:31:14.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9417" CreationDate="2014-04-11T11:03:25.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best Buy will have one. Go to their stereo installation shop, which is usually accessed around the side of the building. They will have the harness adapter which will plug directly from your new stereo to the existing wire harness without the need for modification, so you can reinstall your old stereo if you ever sell the car. They will also have professional facial plates for a clean install. Both of these will make installation very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T12:02:59.727" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T12:02:59.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9387" CreationDate="2014-04-11T11:57:33.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is lack of fuel, so carb is at fault. Your diagnostic thinking is on track, it would seem. Per your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Try and put a small piece of Duct Tape over the crack in the primer bulb and see if that helps. If the carb is drawing air through there, it will not be pulling gas as it should, which will bring about the &quot;choke only&quot; run situation you are describing. If this fixes it, just let it run as you need, then show it to your friend when you return it. Seems it was that way when you got it, to me. Never underestimate the power of Duct Tape ;-) It seals things quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Is there even a fuel filter? Most small engines I have or have run, do not as far as I know. Has never been the issue, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) This seems most likely. On small engine carbs and ethanol enhanced fuels, I find this usually is the culprit. Using Stabil or other fuel stabilizers helps tremendously, especially if it's sitting over the winter months. If you don't, clogged carb passages ensue. With the newer carbs, which don't allow for adjustment, I have found it very difficult to successfully rebuild these carbs. It is much easier on time/money/aggravation to just replace it, as the carb is usually not all that expensive if researched through the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T11:57:33.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9435" CreationDate="2014-04-11T13:15:01.333" Score="4" ViewCount="2484" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) code, do the first 8 digits always refer to the same make/model, or does it change from year to year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here is a VIN (&lt;strong&gt;5TDDKRFH5ES03F736&lt;/strong&gt;) decoded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5TD&lt;/strong&gt;  --&gt;  Toyota  (WMI [World Manufacturer Identifier])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DKRFH&lt;/strong&gt; --&gt; Highlander SUV, AWD, Engine 2GR-FE (Vehicle Attributes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt;     --&gt; check digit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;    --&gt; 2014 (model year)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;    --&gt; plant code (Princeton, Indiana)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;03F736&lt;/strong&gt;  --&gt; vehicle sequence number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I find another VIN with the same WMI (&lt;strong&gt;5TD&lt;/strong&gt;) and the same vehicle attributes (&lt;strong&gt;DKRFH&lt;/strong&gt;), but the year and plant code are different, will that always still be the same make and model? (a Toyota Highlander in this example). Are there any exceptions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm most interested in the North American market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much for your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4849" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T02:16:46.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T02:16:46.727" Title="How much of a VIN code is needed to identify make &amp; model, across model years?" Tags="|service|vehicle-identification|vin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9424" CreationDate="2014-04-11T14:02:20.667" Score="8" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I had repaired a stripped thread on my aluminium timing chain cover with a M6x1.0 Helicoil. This involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drilling out the damaged thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tapping a slightly larger M8x1.0 internal thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwing in the M6x1.0 Helicoil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I noticed that the Helicoil had backed out. In an attempt to &quot;fix&quot; this I ended up damaging the new thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of replacing the timing cover itself, is it possible to recover from this mess I've made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T14:18:03.427" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T07:17:43.240" Title="What options do I have if I've stripped the threads for my Helicoil repair?" Tags="|stripped-thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9423" CreationDate="2014-04-11T14:02:20.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible corrective action is to use a key-locking insert (commercial name &quot;KeySert&quot; or &quot;KeenSert&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an M6x1.0 internal thread, the standard external thread is M10x1.25. The following steps will need to be taken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enlarge the hole size with to 8.8mm (0.35&quot; drill bit is close enough)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create new thread with an M10x1.25 tap wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw in the locking insert until the head is flush with the surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the locks in to lock the insert in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a YouTube video demonstrating the steps involved: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/UTdJUMIcrPI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/UTdJUMIcrPI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvdlK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Key Locking Inserts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T07:17:43.240" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T07:17:43.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T15:56:46.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask this question as I plan on using 10W30 motor oil in my Jeep's manual transmission and need no sulphur added to the oil so that it is &quot;yellow metal safe&quot;. I'm not looking to start a discussion around whether or not motor oil may be used in manual transmission but rather, looking for information on whether motor oil (synthetic or mineral) contains sulphur as an additive. I assume synthetic does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4359" LastEditorUserId="4359" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T16:05:23.020" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T22:02:29.673" Title="Does non-synthetic 10w30 motor oil contain sulphur?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9348" CreationDate="2014-04-11T19:12:58.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;practise makes perfect-it's a learning curve.Find a lonely road and persevere.you will&#xA;become so adept you could do it in your sleep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T19:12:58.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9425" CreationDate="2014-04-12T06:47:15.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Synthetic based oils do not typically contain sulphanates. Mobil, as an example recommend&#xA;Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in lieu of a GL-5 lubricant that does contain sulphur and as&#xA;you correctly state is injurious to copper, brass, and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T22:02:29.673" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T22:02:29.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-12T11:46:57.663" Score="3" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having manually locked my front hubs (they operate freely) and engaged H4 on my fj40&#xA;cruiser there is an intermittent droning from the l/front wheel at approx. 50mph. At&#xA;low speeds turning a corner L or R forward or back there is an audible noise like one&#xA;component dragging on another. Can be felt also.this is confined to area of left front wheel only As this does not occur when hubs are unlocked I suspect the hub but not bearings because as stated it is only in 4WD. Am I on the right track? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T17:23:56.087" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T11:17:51.357" Title="noisy free wheeling hub" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9422" CreationDate="2014-04-12T18:49:24.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) code, do the first 8 digits always refer to the same make/model, or does it change from year to year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything stayed the same between two years (make, model, engine, options, origin, etc), you can expect that the only thing which would change between the two years is the 10th digit (year) and the last six which indicates the serial number of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The breakdown of any VIN of a car from 1981 until present sold in North America is as such (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocheck.com/consumers/car-facts/vin-numbers/vin-decode.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autocheck&lt;/a&gt; website):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpifN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;VIN decoder gif&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This standard is covered under ISO 3833, but there are other competing standards throughout the world. Although, if a vehicle manufacturer wants to sell their vehicle in the United States, they will conform to ISO 3833. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I find another VIN with the same WMI (5TD) and the same vehicle attributes (DKRFH), but the year and plant code are different, will that always still be the same make and model? (a Toyota Highlander in this example). Are there any exceptions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For vehicles sold in North America, there should be no exceptions. In most cases the plant code will be the same amongst cars with the same vehicle attributes, because it becomes a lot more expensive for an auto manufacturer to have two plants rolling out the same cars. The logistics involved creates a greater expense for two plants. (It's a lot more economical to add more workers and/or assembly lines at the same plant than it is to run two identical plants.) Some manufacturers do assemble the same vehicles at different plants, such as VW, which does this with the Jetta (Germany and Mexico). The difference here would be, there would be a change in the first letter of the VIN as well as the plant being different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is WMI (world manufacturer id) + VDS (vehicle descriptor section) enough to identify the make &amp;amp; model, or is it necessary to include the model year also?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know a certain vehicle is a Toyota and you take the last eight to the dealership and ask them questions, they should be able to identify it with this information alone (they will cross reference the last eight with their database to see the whole picture of the vehicle in question). If you are trying to do it by internet search or on your own, you'll need to have the complete VIN in order to see what the vehicle make/model/year/etc is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T18:49:24.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9447" CreationDate="2014-04-12T19:35:34.397" Score="5" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, how does one go about replacing the balljoints in a car?  Specifically the rear toe arms from a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a set of good condition rear arms that have suspect balljoints.  Typically one just replaces the whole arm because they've been cheap and it's real easy to do, but parts for these cars (specifically the 95-99 AWD models) are getting rare.  I suspect that compatible balljoints will be around for long after replacement arm supplies are depleted.  I'd like to learn how to do the work now that I may be required to do in the future to keep these cars on the road!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T14:38:54.950" Title="How to replace balljoint?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6290" CreationDate="2014-04-12T19:42:47.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this same car for my daughter.  Same thing: power window button, but no separate button to lock/unlock the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the doors will all sync to the drivers door, at least they're supposed to, using either the key from the outside or the toggle next to the door handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our particular case, all the doors will synch to lock, but they're inconsistent in synching to unlock.  However I found that if I can get them all to unlock from the inside of the car if I push the backside of the toggle inwards rather than pulling the front side of the toggle outwards.   So I suspect something is wearing out in how it's supposed to work &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I suspect a fuse has gone out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T19:42:47.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9439" CreationDate="2014-04-12T20:36:56.610" Score="2" ViewCount="15026" Body="&lt;p&gt;My petrol engine has developed a persistent misfire. How can I figure out which cylinder is the culprit in order to hone in on the root cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T02:08:19.907" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T02:08:19.907" Title="How can I identify which cylinder is responsible for a petrol engine misfire?" Tags="|engine|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9438" CreationDate="2014-04-12T20:36:56.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is easy to tell a misfiring engine as it will transmit unusual vibrations that vary in severity with engine load. A misfire occurs when a cylinder fails to ignite the air/fuel mixture at the right time and could happen due to a wide range of reasons, including lack of spark (a bad coil), lack of fuel delivery (clogged fuel injectors) and improper ignition timing (out-of-spec cam timing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to identify the cylinder(s) responsible for the misfire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a code scanner&lt;/strong&gt;. Most modern-day vehicles come with an engine control unit (ECU). One of the jobs of the ECU is to store engine faults, and infers the misfiring cylinder based on the readings coming from the engine knock sensors. While this approach is quick and easy, it is not always guaranteed to register the responsible cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infer by elimination&lt;/strong&gt;. The principle behind this approach is quite simple - if a firing cylinder is disabled while the engine is running the vibration &quot;signature&quot; will change, while if a misfiring cylinder is disabled then there will be no discernible change in engine note. This test is best done with the engine running and with appropriate PPE as it will invariably involve disconnecting coils/plug wires one-by-one. After each cylinder is tested, the coil/plug wiring should be reconnected to restore the engine note back to its baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Observe the thermal signature&lt;/strong&gt;. A misfiring cylinder will not generate the same level of heat as a firing cylinder. This test is best suited to engines with easy-to-access exhaust headers. With the engine cold, start it up and let it run for a few seconds before turning it off. By figuring out which parts of the exhaust header(s) are cold (an IR temperature gauge should work well here), one can hone in on the misfiring cylinder. This test doesn't work well if the engine is run for too long as the heat generated will even out across the headers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T20:36:56.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-12T22:58:43.590" Score="1" ViewCount="3551" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to fix the radiator fans on my 99 Grand Am. Both fans don't even kick on after I turn on the ac like they did before. I replace the coolant tank all hose just replace the coolant temps sensor and all the fuses are good. I ran a power source to the fans and they worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4858" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-13T15:37:40.990" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T09:00:06.817" Title="99 Grand Am radiator fans not working" Tags="|pontiac|grand-am|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7501" CreationDate="2014-04-13T11:18:03.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can bend valves and mercedes will generally not cover resultant damage even during&#xA;warranty period.Mercedessource is a good site hosted by a Mercedes technician&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T11:18:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-13T16:40:10.680" Score="2" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new brand GM C Suburban. I need to install a 8 cameras and NVR security camera system, 55&quot; monitor, and 2 laptops in this SUV. We want to design this car as a mobile security office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know if I can install another 3 extra car batteries in parallel. Will there be any negative side effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can somebody help me to make  3 batteries in parallel  work, as both will charge and discharge together so that I will get enough power view the camera system on 55&quot; monitor while driving and/or when engine is set to idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will it take to get this working ? Or is it even possible ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4860" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T09:32:45.023" Title="Extra batteries charger" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="81106" CreationDate="2014-04-13T22:41:17.023" Score="5" ViewCount="9244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it has an air filter for the engine, but I'm not able to find where the cabin filter is, if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The glove box can't be taken out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-I'm not seeing anything when I remove the velcro upholstery near the floor mats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried various web searches and the Toyota.com website downloadable PDF, but its still not clear; it just mentions 'Air filters' very vaguely which seem to be for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/AirFilters2011-LowRes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-online-theme/pdf/AirFilters2011-LowRes.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4862" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T01:08:21.763" Title="Does the Toyota 2000 Camry LE have a cabin filter?" Tags="|toyota|camry|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9436" CreationDate="2014-04-13T23:00:07.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking several on line parts retailers they all show an assembly. The control arm and ball joint are sold as an assembly. You can't replace the ball joint without replacing the lower control arm. The can be an advantage since you will now have new rust free, control arm with new bushings. Consider getting new eccentrics (the hardware that actually sets the alignment) while it is apart. It will make reassembly easier. A helpful hint I use is to hit the old eccentric lobes with some spraypaint prior to disassembly. When you install the new or reinstall the old bolts lining up the paint marks will get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T23:00:07.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9446" CreationDate="2014-04-13T23:18:00.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking several sites I have not found any thing that relates to a cabin air filter for your Camry. They list several other models but none for a Camry. For future reference Fram has a database that lists instructions for replacing cabin air filters by make ,model and year. It appears that they became available on the 2002 models.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T23:18:00.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9454" CreationDate="2014-04-14T00:50:06.313" Score="18" ViewCount="322992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I (like most people) just use regular unleaded gas in my car and always have. But once I accidentally put in the premium kind, mixing it with the unleaded that was already there, and I thought for sure my car was going to explode or something, but it turned out alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've just gotten to wondering what the harm is in either putting the wrong kind of gas in your car altogether (on its own), or mixing them (the three types....unleaded, premium, and premium+ or w/e it's called).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, what about diesel? Presumably using that in a normal car or mixing it with normal gas is a death sentence, but I don't understand exactly what would happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T16:08:42.470" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T16:08:42.470" Title="What happens if you put the wrong kind of gas in your car?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-14T07:29:39.023" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;My clutch started to slip and was squealing so I had a new clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, pilot and throw out bearings all replaced. It drives fine, but it randomly makes a loud squeal in fifth gear sometimes. It will stop if I let off the gas and then it drives fine. Was something put on wrong or could it be in the trans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4865" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:32:04.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:32:04.480" Title="Ford Ranger manual transmission randomly squeals in 5th gear" Tags="|ford|clutch|manual-transmission|noise|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9444" CreationDate="2014-04-14T09:32:45.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd point you towards my previous answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6116/adding-a-additional-battery-to-car/6121#6121&quot;&gt;Adding a additional battery to car&lt;/a&gt; - You'll need to use deep-discharge leisure batteries rather than normal car batteries, and have them on a split-charge system so you don't drain the main battery while you're parked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the stuff you'll need will be available off-the-shelf from a decent 4x4/RV/Marine supplier, as such systems are regularly used to power equipment in caravans and boats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T09:32:45.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2014-04-14T10:05:44.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a newer car, all that would happen is that your electronic fuel management system will notice that your engine is running too lean (not enough fuel) or too rich (too much fuel) and adjust your ignition timing and fuel injection accordingly. &lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;: In an older car with a carburetor (no automatic adjustment of ignition timing), you may destroy the engine for one of the reasons described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different fuels burn at different rates, so the spark plug needs to ignite at just the right time during the ignition stroke, otherwise you don't burn all the fuel before the valves open, which could cause a backfire (if you're lucky) or could cause your engine to try to turn in the wrong direction (if you're not) because the explosion happens before the crank shaft is in the right position (called pinging), forcing it back instead of over the crest of the revolution. Or it burns too hot and melts a piston. In either case, this will eventually lead to the engine blowing a nice paper currency-sized hole in your wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel on the other hand should theoretically not ignite in a petrol/gasoline engine because diesel doesn't vaporise very well (which is why diesel is ignited by the compression of hot air under extreme pressure. Diesel engines don't even &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; spark plugs), leading to a flooding of the cylinders and a stall. But in the event that the diesel actually ignites, the most likely scenario is that the engine will run rather rough and sputter a lot before finally dying and flooding, possibly bending or snapping one or more connection rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T10:05:44.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-14T15:37:16.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2110" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fuel guage will work but when it gets to half a tank it will drop to empty with in a few minutes but still has gas in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4865" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T19:08:26.100" Title="1987 Ford Ranger fuel gauge not working right" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|gauges|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8692" CreationDate="2014-04-14T16:05:54.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use a spark plug that is one heat range colder than standard to compensate for the increased heat from LPG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper spark plugs won't do any damage if they are not too &quot;hot&quot; (dissipates(transfers heat to cylinder head) heat fast enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volvo OEM Platinum plugs are very good - you can safely use them in LPG setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1510" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T16:05:54.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2014-04-14T16:06:16.440" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher octane fuel does not burn as easily as a lower octane fuel. Higher octane fuels are specified where higher compression ratios are present in an engine, or where forced induction (such as turbo charging) is used. By using higher octane fuel where lower is specified, you will create no problems with your engine. It does not (by popular belief) add any power to your engine, but will not harm it at all. Worst case scenario is you've just wasted some money by buying the more expensive fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put the lower octane fuel in an engine which specifies high octane fuel, will not cause you any major issues on an electronic fuel injected engine because it has a device known as a &quot;knock sensor&quot; which will pull timing. When a spark is fired at the spark plug, this event actually happens &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the piston reaches top dead center (TDC - upper most position in the cylinder). This allows for the air/fuel explosion time to reach it's maximum force by the time the piston is ready to move back down in the cylinder. This may seem weird in the sense that the explosion takes place so quickly, but if you think about how fast the piston is moving (at 3000 rpm, the ignition fires 25 times per second). Pinging occurs when the ignition of the air/fuel occurs before it is supposed to. This can be caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber (carbon buildup for instance), by the spark occurring too soon, or when the compression ratio is too high for the fuel. As fuel is harder to burn as the octane goes up, it becomes more stable and less likely to burn before it's supposed to. If lower octane fuel is introduced into an engine, the air/fuel will most likely try to burn before it's supposed to and causing the preignition otherwise known as &quot;ping&quot; or &quot;knock&quot;. This will be read by the knock sensor and the computer will pull timing out of the cylinder (or cylinders if multiple occurrences) which is having the issue. When I say &quot;pull timing out&quot;, I mean to say, the spark will be made not as advanced. For instance, if there is 36 degrees advance - spark occurring 36 degrees Before TDC - the computer may make it only 34 or 32 degrees BTDC. The main effect this has is to reduce the power output of the engine -- the engine will not be as efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mix different octanes of fuel, you are either increasing or decreasing the octane of the fuel at hand. It won't cause any real problems for the engine or fuel system at hand (this assumes you are using fuels of the same mixture of ethanol -- mixing E85 fuel into standard fuel to increase octane and introducing it into a fuel system which cannot handle it - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8676/can-i-use-ethanol-instead-of-petrol-in-my-car&quot;&gt;read this&lt;/a&gt; -- may cause issues with seals and corrosion of parts which are not built to take the higher concentration of ethanol. E10 fuel poses no issues for modern or older vehicles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for diesel, it is unlikely that major engine damage would occur due to &quot;hydraulicing&quot; (term used when a large amount of fluid is introduced into a cylinder) as Juann suggests, only because the engine would not run if pure diesel were introduced. A small amount of diesel would be in the cylinder, but not enough to cause damage. It is possible for a mix of diesel and gas to fire, depending on the mix. It would have to be a lot more gas than diesel, but I don't know what the maximum ratio of diesel would be for it to run. Mind you, it would not run as well as straight gas in a vehicle, but theoretically it could run. You'd see a lot of smoke out of your tail pipe (either blue or black) and it would eventually clog your catalytic convertor. So, not a death sentence, but definitely not good for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T16:06:16.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9456" CreationDate="2014-04-14T16:10:46.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor end of the gas gauge is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rheostat#Rheostat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rheostat&lt;/a&gt;. What occurs is the part of the rheostat goes &quot;dead&quot;, or no longer reads as it should, which is why it drops to dead empty. To fix this, you need to put in a new tank sensor, which is usually collocated with the fuel pump in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T16:10:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-14T21:27:44.297" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2005 Suzuki Reno and have been having some headlight problems. I noticed that there was a recall on them (for headlight problems) back in 2007 and again in August 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CarFax does not show that the previous owner ever fixed them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the dealer still fix it free of charge? If not, could I fix it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4870" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T16:53:18.533" Title="Honoring A Recall" Tags="|electrical|headlight|wiring|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9440" CreationDate="2014-04-15T02:55:50.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the fan relay? It should be in the fusebox/power center under the hood. You can check the relay by swapping it with another identical relay out of the fuse box. You can also try checking it by having an assistant start the car and cycle the a/c on and off. With your finger on the relay you may be able to feel the tick as the contacts close. It may also be a wiring issue between the ECM (engine control module) and the relay or between the relay and the fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T02:55:50.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T12:35:10.063" Score="2" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 a Kia Sedona turbo diesel 2.9L, with intercooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting 5 km per liter of diesel consumed. I also have to do oil change and ATF replacement. I got the car 3 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible remedies to improve fuel consumption? Other Sedona owners are getting 8 to 10 km/L on city and 12km/L on highway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will oil and ATF change improve mileage? Old oil is likely black and old ATF is smelly and like diesel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about fuel filter, injector cleaner, and whatever may be suggested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4872" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T14:33:47.920" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T17:23:29.283" Title="KIA Sedona 2003 Diesel Intercooler Turbo Low Fuel Mileage" Tags="|diesel|fuel-consumption|kia|sedona|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9462" CreationDate="2014-04-15T13:38:32.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd check is to see if there are any leaks in the intake tract. Make sure all of your cold pipes (pressure side between turbo and intake manifold, going through the intercooler) are in place and not leaking, especially at the joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbo may be at fault as well. If it has failed, this could be causing a loss of power and excess use of fuel. If you have a boost gauge, you can see that a lack of boost is being built under engine stress. You might also hear what would be considered &quot;more than normal&quot; (or none at all) turbo whine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your injectors are dumping too much fuel (stuck open or not closing all the way), you'll obviously be getting poor fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the oil and ATF, but neither of these should have any real impact as you are suggesting, though bad oil or lack of oil can cause premature turbo bearing failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not any news to you, I'd suspect you should be getting somewhere around 40-42 miles per gallon, where right now it appears you are getting around 11-12 MPG. That is SUCKY!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T13:38:32.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9466" CreationDate="2014-04-15T14:54:44.040" Score="8" ViewCount="41245" Body="&lt;p&gt;So one of the tires on my car had a blowout on a road with a slight slope. I tried lifting the car up with a hydraulic jack but after the car got to a certain height the jack fell forward and the car lurched forward. I tried it twice and the same thing happened both times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say you're supposed to do them on a level surface but sometimes you're just not going to have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would wheel chocks help in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T11:46:50.210" Title="changing a tire on a slope" Tags="|tires|repair|jack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T14:59:09.650" Score="3" ViewCount="4935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2013 car last year and got a small scratch on the bumper. I think someone may have hit it ever so slightly when trying to back in or something I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, personally, I'm indifferent about it. I don't think it looks that bad from a cosmetic perspective but it was suggested to me that I should get it painted, regardless, because if I don't it could rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do ya'll think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T04:06:47.983" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T20:46:20.317" Title="should scratches on a new bumper be painted over?" Tags="|maintenance|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9464" CreationDate="2014-04-15T15:10:52.240" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, wheel chocks would help in this case. Also, use of the emergency brakes as well as leaving it in gear (EDIT- Leave it in gear if a manual or park if automatic). If wheel chocks are not available, you could use a largish stone which could be wedged between the tire and the ground on both sides of the tire. This would be on a tire which is not flat and multiple chocked tires should be utilized. Leave the flat tire on the ground while breaking the lug nuts loose and again while retorquing them. This all depends on the slope of surface in question, though. There will be a point where the slope will be too great to overcome with any of these approaches. In this case, you may have to limp your vehicle to a place where it can be set level. You could also try pointing the vehicle perpendicular to the slope, with the flat tire on the high side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T18:52:21.423" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:52:21.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2014-04-15T15:22:21.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this bumper isn't made of metal, then it won't rust. You can try some paint repair magic kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a scratch, than you won't be able to get a brand new looking, smooth surface by just painting over. You should repair the scratch properly: sand it, prime it, repaint all or blend in and apply lack, polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1510" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T15:22:21.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1792" CreationDate="2014-04-15T16:18:10.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a relay in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side.  On a 2004, it's #46 and labeled 'HDM Relay'.  YMMV.  You can swap it with a known good relay (same type from the box for something you know is working).  #45 should be the same (on a 2004 at least) and should be the engine fan clutch.  If the headlights work after the swap, swap them back and get a new relay (you don't want to have a non-operational fan).  This is from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2012/10/2004-chevrolet-trailblazer-no-low-beam.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;writeup&lt;/a&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkys-answers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sparky's Answers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, start with the bulbs.  Check the connectors with a multimeter and work your way back from there.  You really need a wiring diagram.  Based on some Youtube videos, it looks like there should be a 4 pin connector on the headlight module with 4 wires, Tan, Green, Black and Black.  The blacks should be the grounds, tan should be low beam, green should be high beam.  Each bulb also has a 2-wire connector you'll also need to check if the 4-wire connector checks out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect there is a dimmer switch somewhere, probably on the steering column. Hopefully you can get at the connector to check it without removing the lower dash or dropping the steering column.  If you know what wires go where, you can jumper the appropriate connectors to simulate a working switch set to low beam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T17:33:18.057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T17:33:18.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9460" CreationDate="2014-04-15T16:53:18.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're referring to recalls 07V452000 and 12V397000, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the recall has not expired, a dealer should perform the fix without charging you.  The only way to know for sure is to contact a Suzuki Dealer or Suzuki and ask.  The Dealer should be able to look the VIN up and give you a definitive answer as to whether the fix was applied to your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the recall has expired, the parts for the fix should be available as a kit that the dealer parts department will be happy to sell you.  If you go that route, shop around (multiple parts departments from different dealers and online if you can get the part number).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T16:53:18.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8585" CreationDate="2014-04-15T17:26:51.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Paulster2's suggestions, try jiggling the shifter (shaft and button).  Also, there is a recall for the ignition lock cylinder on your vehicle that has been all over the news.  The fix for that may solve your problem. Check your battery (it's in the trunk), too.  The interior lights coming on don't mean it's 100%.  There is a button in a compartment on the column behind a rubber cover.  It's for releasing a key from the ignition, but you might give it a shot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T19:25:29.823" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T19:25:29.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9464" CreationDate="2014-04-15T18:22:13.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you leave the car in gear, and depending on if the vehicle is front-wheel, rear-wheel drive, don't jack both front wheels up if front-wheel drive, etc. This way you always have a tire on the ground that is in gear. So if your left-front tire blew out and your car is front wheel drive, jack it up so the right-front wheel stays fully weighted on the ground. All of Paulster2 answers help as well. Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4875" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:22:13.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9475" CreationDate="2014-04-15T20:38:15.900" Score="2" ViewCount="72639" Body="&lt;p&gt;The patient is a 1996 Chevrolet Caprice with dual-filament bulbs. Both filaments in both bulbs light up in high beam mode, but no filament on either bulb lights up in low beam mode. What could be broke and how do you fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T05:19:02.340" Title="Low beam headlights out, High beam working" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|headlight|b-body|gm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9474" CreationDate="2014-04-15T21:01:38.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bulb modules could actually be bad, despite both filaments coming on in high beam mode.  Pull the connector at each bulb, there will be three wires: tan, green and black.  The black is ground, tan is low and green is high.  Make sure there is power on the tan wire when the headlights are on and the high/low switch is set to low.  If the tan wire is hot, replace the bulb modules.  The bulbs will be easier to get out if you remove the battery and the air box.  Each bulb is secured by a plastic collar.  Rotate it clockwise to disengage, then pull the bulb out and undo the connector.  Reverse the process to reinstall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tan wire is not hot, look for the dimmer switch on the side of the steering column. The connector may be accessed without taking off the bits of the dash or dropping the column, though removing the access panels will make it easier.  The outer plastic panel/hatch comes off after removing two screws.  Removing that will reveal a metal panel with four bolts.  Removing that opens a space to access the column wiring, though you may need to remove the metal collar around the column.  The connector has a yellow wire, a tan wire and two green wires.  Jump the connector for the yellow wire (from the headlamp on/off switch) to the connector for the tan wire (to the bulbs).  If the low beams come on when bypassing the switch, replace the switch.  To get at the screws/bolts holding the switch to the column, you might need to remove the lower dash and drop the column.  The lower dash comes out if you remove all the screws (you have to take the ashtray out to get at one), open the glovebox and gently pull.  The column is secured by two bolts.  Don't forget to undo the shift indicator cable before dropping the column.  It just clips on to the shift collar (note where). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the low beams don't come on when jumping around the switch, check the wiring between the switch and the bulbs.  The tan wire from the switch goes into the body harness and through the firewall.  There is a connector (C101) around the washer fluid tank that would be a convenient place to check if you can find it (look for the green and tan wires going to the bulb on driver's side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely scenario is bad bulbs.  The next is a bad dimmer switch followed by wiring faults at various points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T21:09:00.530" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T21:09:00.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9456" CreationDate="2014-04-15T22:50:17.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are Paulster2 is correct.  Unfortunately, it seems like you need to drop the tank to replace the sending unit.  Make sure a replacement is available before going that far, though.  I suspect the original Ford part is long discontinued and aftermarket parts may be special order (not on the shelves at your local parts store).  If you're really lucky, the rheostat is varnished up (as opposed to worn out) and you might be able to clear it up with multiple doses of some fuel system cleaner (techron), especially if you let it sit a couple of days with the cleaner in the tank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get at the wiring connector without dropping the tank, disconnect it.  The gauge should read empty.  If you ground the yellow/white stripe wire, it should swing to full.  This will confirm whether your gauge is 100% before dropping the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to drop the tank, you might consider replacing the pump and strainer while you're at it, especially if you don't know how old the pump is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T22:50:17.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9478" CreationDate="2014-04-16T01:11:51.333" Score="3" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past year or so, I've had to manually charge the Protege's battery before going anywhere, every single day. Either the battery is not &quot;holding its charge&quot; or there's a component that's draining the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I charged it and it started just fine, then when I got into the car for the trip home from shopping just a couple hours later, the battery was completely dead and it wouldn't start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator is relatively new and outputs good voltage. The battery seemed to be in good shape originally, but with all of the charging and uncharging of the battery, it's probably almost kaput by now. I have no idea where to even start looking at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4878" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T01:41:10.873" Title="2001 Mazda Protege -- Battery Charge Problems" Tags="|electrical|battery|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9477" CreationDate="2014-04-16T01:41:10.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the battery somewhere it can be tested. It probably is only holding what is called a &quot;surface charge&quot;. One cell may be bad in which will not charge correctly. When left to sit, even a small drain can cause it to lose its charge. I will bet the battery is the root cause if your issue, especially since you say the alternator is putting out good juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T01:41:10.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T05:53:18.580" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the power inverter and the two motors from the 2013 Ford C-Max hybrid.  I use them for my research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the harness to connect the inverter and the two motors.  I went to a Ford dealer said I want to buy the harness.  I told them I can point out where exactly it is located under hood.  But they ask me what is the part number.  I think if I can point out where it is exactly, shouldn't they tell me the part number? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone knows what the part number is for the three-phase harness? Or anyone knows any method I can use to find the part number for the harness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll deeply appreciate your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4879" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:17:37.343" Title="Harness that connects power inverter and motors 2013 Ford C-MAX hybrid" Tags="|ford|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9413" CreationDate="2014-04-16T07:10:33.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like something is preventing the piston in your brake master cylinder from returning all the way to its home position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be caused by something getting in the way of the pedal, preventing it from coming all the way back up.  It doesn't take much, either.  Just a fraction of an inch (a few mm) off its normal resting point and a bit of pressure will remain in the brake lines after each pedal depression.  A dozen times or so, and your brake pedal will become quite hard, and the car will drive like it's tripled in weight.  Make sure there's nothing blocking the brake pedal (loose wire, etc.); make sure the brake light switch that's mounted to the pedal bracket hasn't worked loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're under the dash, inspecting the brake pedal, take a look at the rod that the brake pedal pushes through the firewall into the master cylinder.  It's adjustable, and it's possible (although probably rare) that the rod's lock nut has worked loose and the rod has come out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4880" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T07:10:33.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9413" CreationDate="2014-04-16T08:12:18.440" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's brake caliper cylinder or brake guides that's stuck.&#xA;I'd go with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain all brake fluid. (You should change boiled-up brake fluid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Service the brake caliper. (Change rubber parts, o-rings, clean off rust, silicone paste for cylinder and guides, copper paste on pads).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change both rear brake disks. (Most likely you overheated that locking brake disk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refill brake fluid, bleed brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1510" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T08:12:18.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9464" CreationDate="2014-04-16T11:46:50.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car on a jack is usually a very &lt;strong&gt;unstable object&lt;/strong&gt;. Even when if are changing a wheel on a level surface, you should use everything available to stop your car moving when jacked up: &lt;strong&gt;handbrake, reverse gear or park,  and wedge or stone or brick or whatever.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the the car direction is more or less aligned with the slope, using everything at hand to secure your car against moving should help you out. It's advisable to always have something rigid enough in your car just for the case that you have a flat on a steep climb on a dessert road (no joke, you'll never have a flat in front of a workshop, that's granted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a rare occasion when your car is aligned perpendicularly to the slope, well, then it depends on what side of the car you need to change the wheel. If on the &quot;upper&quot; side, you need to secure your car against motion in both directions (again, with a piece of wood, brick or whatever) and try to position the jack as &lt;em&gt;vertically&lt;/em&gt; as possible. And, again, a car jacked up like this will be very, &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; unstable. If the case is that the flat tire is on the &quot;lower&quot;, than the best advice is not to try to jack the car up at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4883" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T11:46:50.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9494" CreationDate="2014-04-16T12:28:02.547" Score="3" ViewCount="22666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2011 Grand Caravan last November, maybe that was my mistake, buying in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the dual climate control (one driver, one passenger) and a rear control as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago and this terrible winter is finally letting up. We had a few warm days and turned the heat over to cold on all three knobs only to notice that the passenger side and rear vents were blowing hot air. With the AC on the drivers side does blow cold, but the passenger/rear is always hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional note: under the driver's seat is a large wiring harness connector that shorted out due to the wet/salty water from the winter. So the driver's seat cannot be adjusted and the seatbelt sensor doesn't sense.&#xA;I only add this in case the wiring could be causing the vent motors to stop working (but I kind of doubt it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm handy with tools, but I'm not a mechanic by any means. I'm planning on fixing the wiring under the seat soon. Do you guys think that will fix the HVAC issues or am I going to have to tear open the dash? If it's not the wiring how do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warranty is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4885" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T18:22:44.677" Title="2011 Grand Caravan only blows hot air to the rear and passenger" Tags="|dodge|hvac|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="50298" CreationDate="2014-04-16T13:16:49.680" Score="4" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 VW golf with the 2.0L petrol engine and a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had the transmission fluid changed as part of a regular maintenance. Ever since shifting into 2nd gear has been sticky and a bit crunchy. The tricky part is that this problem only exists for the first 10 mins or so of driving the car. After that everything is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to two mechanics but of course it took 10 mins to drive there so the problem was not showing its self when they tested it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the dealer and the checked that the fluid level was correct and confirmed that it was. They also confirmed that the correct fluid was used by calling the mechanic that did the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4887" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:28:59.530" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T20:54:42.640" Title="Transmission sticky for first 10 mins of driving" Tags="|vw|transmission|manual-transmission|golf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9491" CreationDate="2014-04-16T13:58:25.490" Score="5" ViewCount="4235" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was tuning up my outdoor power equipment I made a boneheaded mistake with my lawn mower. I was putting the drain plug back in my mower with a socket wrench completely forgetting it was plastic. As soon as I realized something didn't feel right the head completely sheared off leaving the threaded portion of the plug in the drain hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no place to grab a hold of it now. I believe the threaded portion of the plug is hollow but there's still a bit of the top left of the plug so I can't see through it or stick anything in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to get it out? I have a replacement coming today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far this is what I've been thinking but I'm open to other options&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the tip of a wide, flat screwdriver with a propane torch so it will melt the plastic and make a slot. Let the screwdriver tip cool and try to unscrew it with the screw driver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill 2 holes so I can stick the tips of slightly open needle nose pliers in the holes and twist it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to remove what's left of the top and use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.organiclawndiy.com/2012/10/remove-broken-sprinkler-risers.html&quot;&gt;nipple extractor&lt;/a&gt; to remove the threaded portion. This tool works great for broken sprinkler risers but I can't think of how to open up the top to insert the tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the drain plug. Only the threaded portion remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQLLU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tecumseh Oil Drain Plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/36083/0071/143/Model-143005512/0247/1503500?pathTaken=partSearch&amp;amp;pathRender=modelComponent&amp;amp;documentCompId=P0080159&amp;amp;diagramPageId=00001&amp;amp;searchModelNumber=143005512&amp;amp;subCompDesc=Replacement%20parts&amp;amp;keyId=72&quot;&gt;SearsPartsDirect.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4888" LastEditorUserId="4888" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T14:19:15.563" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T17:47:29.413" Title="How to remove a broken plastic oil drain plug from lawn mower?" Tags="|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9487" CreationDate="2014-04-16T15:21:30.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried to just use your fingernail to turn it out? If not, you can use a screw driver and small hammer to run it out. You should be able to easily create a ridge on it since it's plastic. You need to do this carefully, but you'll probably be amazed at how easily it will turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:21:30.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9493" CreationDate="2014-04-16T17:24:12.970" Score="2" ViewCount="2690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the sliding doors make a grinding noise when opening or shutting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place I take this to for an oil change claims to lubricate doors and windows. Now I am not too sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What level of knowlege do I need to fix the grinding noise? My mechanical skills are very limited to changing a flat tire and the wiper blades on my van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The car is no longer under warranty. I have a power-train warranty and I am not sure if it covers doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastEditorUserId="4891" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T18:19:42.980" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:44:56.720" Title="2012 Dodge Caravan - Lubrication of door channel" Tags="|lubrication|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9487" CreationDate="2014-04-16T17:47:29.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drain plug wound up not being as hollow as I thought. There was quite a bit of plastic inside the threaded portion and on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a conical burr bit in a drill to make a couple of depressions in the plug which I then inserted the tips of needle nose pliers into and was able to twist it off. I wasn't able to twist it off before with pliers. I think the vibration from the drilling might have freed up the threads a little. After that it was easy to remove and install the new plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4888" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T17:47:29.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9479" CreationDate="2014-04-16T18:17:37.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2 is correct. They can look up the part number.  They may need to ask you some questions to figure out which harness you're after which may involve looking at some diagrams.  When dealing with parts departments I find taking a box of doughnuts works wonders.  You might be able to find it yourself by browsing/searching &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2013&amp;amp;m=Ford&amp;amp;mo=C-Max&amp;amp;initSearch=1&amp;amp;keyword=harness#Search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fordparts.com&lt;/a&gt; (Official Ford Parts site)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:17:37.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9490" CreationDate="2014-04-16T18:37:02.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maintenance schedules says &lt;code&gt;At Each Oil Change&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Open the left and right door (slowly) and inspect for excessive dirt. &#xA;If noise exist wipe clean and apply krytox lube to the door rollers.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if that's referring to the front driver/passenger doors or the sliding doors.  I would break out the Mark I eyeballs and see if you can see any sign of lubrication and maybe apply some fresh Krytox to the moving parts and friction surfaces.  Of course, your problem could actually be grease contamination in the motor clutches, in which case more grease could just make it worse.  Possibly there could be some debris contamination, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Grand-Caravan-Jammed-Side-Power-Sliding-Door-Repair-Guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T18:44:56.720" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:44:56.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9485" CreationDate="2014-04-16T21:17:38.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like maybe a bad passenger zone actuator in the HVAC controls causing the issue up front. As for the rear, that could be another actuator. I think there is a separate evaporator for the rear, it could have a clogged expansion valve or a leak. If it's leaking, you should lose the front A/C fairly soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the seat wiring has anything to do with the HVAC issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get at the HVAC bits, you're going to have to remove your dash.  There are some videos on Youtube.  Don't forget to disable the airbags if you value your life.  If you do it by disconnecting the battery, don't forget to wait for the backup to drain (enables airbags to deploy in crash that severs battery wiring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T21:17:38.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8871" CreationDate="2014-04-17T05:09:21.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guide lock pins as the name suggests guide pads so they contact rotor at correct angle.As&#xA;you discovered incorrect fitting can cause grinding/grabbing.Apply the correct synthetic&#xA;high temperature grease to pins prior to install.Many shops omit this to your detriment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T05:09:21.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9417" CreationDate="2014-04-17T12:55:46.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.Crutchfield.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crutchfield.com&lt;/a&gt; under Car Audio, Build your System, click find what fits your car. Enter your car info and then click on the Parts &amp;amp; Tools to install a receiver, then Factory System Adapters. There will be a list of what fits your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note you may need more than an adapter that simply connects the wires to the wires.&lt;/strong&gt; In 2000 GM started running the door chime, and other warning sounds (seatbelt, low fuel, low oil pressure etc) through the radio. If you are installing an aftermarket radio in one these vehicles you will need an integration adapter to keep the chimes and safety warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of what you need. You didn't provide enough information in your question for me to tell you the exact model so you will need to go to the site and look up the correct one for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_249SOCGM17/CRUX-SOCGM-17-Factory-Integration-Adapter.html?tp=3486&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CRUX SOCGM-17 Factory Integration Adapter&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NeXV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Installing an aftermarket receiver in many late model GM vehicles&#xA;  means losing the chime that warns the door is open, along with audible&#xA;  safety warnings. The Crux SOCGM-17 GM Class II Data Bus Interface lets&#xA;  you replace the factory receiver in these vehicles and keep the door&#xA;  chime and all audible safety warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Connect the SOCGM-17 to the wiring harness on your new car stereo,&#xA;  mount the module in a convenient location, and plug it into the&#xA;  existing factory plug. Get the great sound you want, and keep all&#xA;  important safety features intact. This adapter does not work with GM's&#xA;  Premium Bose® systems or Onstar®, and it won't allow you to keep your&#xA;  factory steering wheel audio controls. It will work with the standard&#xA;  Bose system. Warranty: 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:55:46.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7412" CreationDate="2014-04-17T15:37:12.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, these two wires should be connected together.  This is what allows the radio to retract the antenna when it isn't being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because your wiring harness has a connection for this wire, it doesn't necessarily mean that your car has this kind of motorized antenna.  Even if that's the case, there's still no harm in making the connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T19:06:36.183" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T19:06:36.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2014-04-17T18:30:20.793" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is NO.  It is not bad.  It's just harder to steer.  But that's how people used to drive for many decades before the advent of power steering.  Do, however, make sure that your power steering pump is mounted properly onto the engine block and the serpentine belt because the belt has to have all the pulleys mounted on and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T18:30:20.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9539" CreationDate="2014-04-17T21:43:47.330" Score="9" ViewCount="144568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got home to find a trail of coolant down the driveway and puddles forming under the car (1991 Toyota MR2 - 5SFE).  Concerned that I blew a hose, I checked them all.  Nothing.  Finally decided to see if I had anything left in the overflow to see how much I'd lost on the drive home.  It was overflowing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the weird things:  Temperature gauge was perfectly normal the entire drive home, not high, not low.  The coolant in the overflow was cold (room temperature), I expected it to be hot.  No smell of coolant burning/cooking off either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the engine cools down I plan on checking the oil cap for residue and the dipstick for level/residue, but if it was a headgasket the coolant should be hot.  Ditto for thermostat &amp;amp; fans.  Water pump failure and the gauge should have either gone high or low, not stayed normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm baffled.  No prior indication of any problems.  Seemed to happen out of the blue.  Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T00:10:15.560" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T00:16:24.063" Title="What's making my coolant overflow?" Tags="|toyota|coolant|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2014-04-18T00:14:05.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your radiator cap may be bad. If it's not holding pressure, you're going to have some overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't it, the next thing to look at is for a head gasket leak (or possibly a cracked head). Remember, you can have a head gasket leak without oil in the water or visa-versa. You can get a kit from AutoZone or the like to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T00:14:05.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7192" CreationDate="2014-04-18T07:41:41.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source of smells (not unlike rattles &amp;amp; squeaks) are deceptive.Check all components&#xA;of fuel delivery system for leaks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T07:41:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7607" CreationDate="2014-04-18T07:59:41.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &quot;MAY&quot; be caused by undue wear on power steering pump.The worst culprit is steering&#xA;whilst stationary.Can also cause &quot;scrubbing&quot; of your tyres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T07:59:41.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7136" CreationDate="2014-04-18T08:03:41.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not need to.Extend fully and remove any corrosion/gunk.Apply a little penetrine&#xA;and you may resolve the problem.With constant use the server motor can have worn components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T08:03:41.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2014-04-18T08:39:22.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have blown a head gasket(depending on severity)water spitting out of your exhaust&#xA;is an obvious sign).A very affordable pressure test is advisable and may serve to save&#xA;you money and time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T08:39:22.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8838" CreationDate="2014-04-18T09:25:21.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever you employ test on an old junker with the same problem 1st rather than damage your paintwork further&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:25:21.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8598" CreationDate="2014-04-18T09:35:22.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the same vein some makers such as Chrysler (V8s) offer cylinder shutdown which will&#xA;operate on 4 cylinders depending on speed and load&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:35:22.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2014-04-18T09:57:32.560" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an answer but bear in mind if you change ratio your speedometer will be inaccurate.&#xA;Affordable after market easily fitted devices are available for both old school needle&#xA;and dial and digital speedometers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:57:32.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7883" CreationDate="2014-04-18T10:03:37.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto or manual it is allways wise when towing a heavy load (particularly when going&#xA;uphill) to engage a lower gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:03:37.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7353" CreationDate="2014-04-18T10:30:16.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To bed in new brakes make 8-10 gentle stops from 30-15 mph.followed by 8-10 medium stops&#xA;from 45-30 mph. followed by 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 to 25mph.Allow 30 secs. between &#xA;stops.Recommended by BENDIX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:30:16.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2014-04-18T10:45:28.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most oils have proprietary additives.Mineral based oils contain sulphates that&#xA;can be damaging to &quot;yellow metals&quot; i.e. copper and brass etc...(an issue with gearboxes)&#xA;Synthetic oils generally do not.Follow vehicle makers specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:45:28.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7068" CreationDate="2014-04-18T10:57:13.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your radiator cap is of the correct p.s.i. your radiator given age may be full &#xA;of scale and could be overdue for rodding out/replacing core/or replacing entirely.A&#xA;pressure test will obviate leaks not the condition of your radiator internal condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:57:13.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6912" CreationDate="2014-04-18T11:16:13.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as tread depth is above minimum rear to front swap is not generally an issue&#xA;(obviously the best condition tyres should be up front).If you have power steering and &#xA;turn wheels while stationary you will enhance tyre wear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T11:16:13.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2014-04-18T11:28:42.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your diff ratio has been changed for offroad use your speedometer will be innacurate.&#xA;Much so if larger tyres are fitted.Purchase an after market speedo cable corrector (available for both needle dial( as in your case) or digital speedos.The faster you go the greater the error i.e.29&quot; to 30&quot; inch tyres with 4.11.1 ratio can see a false speedo&#xA;reading at 100k.p.h. of 20%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T11:28:42.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6595" CreationDate="2014-04-18T12:07:16.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every dealership has a &quot;black book&quot; which is a legally enforceable code regarding time&#xA;spent on labour  pertinent to repair.Insist on a fixed price up front and ensure any &#xA;defunct parts are returned to you.If repairer is not agreeable go elsewhere.It goes &#xA;without saying;the more competition the cheaper the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:07:16.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6492" CreationDate="2014-04-18T12:19:26.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it ain't broke don't fix it.Thermostats are generally easy to remove and test with&#xA;hot water and a thermometer to ascertain that they open at correct temp.Workshop manual&#xA;shows how.When reassembling ensure all mating surfaces are clean;use new gasket and check&#xA;for corrosion of housing as they are sacrificial &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:19:26.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6295" CreationDate="2014-04-18T12:53:46.937" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welding is something that intimidates the novice.Mig welders (metal inert gas)welders can be hired;both gas and gasless.In a wind free environment gasless are O.K. Gas provides a&#xA;shield against contaminents.Takes more practise than an arc welder so practise on scrap.&#xA;A weld is always stronger than any body filler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:53:46.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2014-04-18T13:14:08.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple steps will reduce m.p.g.-correct tyre pressure-don't accelerate rapidly-driving&#xA;with windows down or operating air con increase m.p.g. as do weight carried and add-ons&#xA;like roof racks.Try and maintain a constant speed. Your transmission can be modified but is not a cheap endeavour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T13:14:08.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3742" CreationDate="2014-04-18T13:40:38.413" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is sufficient metal surrounding the bolt so fitting a larger bolt will not impact structural integrity centre punch it (so your drill bit  won't slip)-drill it out and tap a new thread in 3 stages to accept a larger bolt.Use a pilot hole then ever larger drill bits.Not applicable in all cases;but one option that has stood the test of time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T13:40:38.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9531" CreationDate="2014-04-18T13:44:39.980" Score="2" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;On 3 of my tires, the penny just won't stand in the tread. The gap in the tread is too wide for the penny to stand. &lt;strong&gt;Does that matter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRyuL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn out tread&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of the 4th tire, the penny goes in to some degree. This is a new tire. I suppose this tells that the penny is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMrlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PennyTread&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend, I am planning to take it to a tire store, but I want to be armed with some knowledge, before going there. I drive about 13 - 15 K miles per year. This van was purchased on 31-Dec-2012 and the dealer told me it was a vehicle that was owned by car-rental company. &lt;strong&gt;The dealership said, they put brand new tires on it.&lt;/strong&gt; I have had a few alignment issues in the beginning of 2014 and that's the reason one tire is newer than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need to replace the other 3 tires, where the gap between the treads is considerable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastEditorUserId="4891" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T14:46:46.403" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T14:46:46.403" Title="Need clarity on the penny test" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9530" CreationDate="2014-04-18T14:41:06.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are actually using the penny the wrong way. Abe's head should be pointing down. You are looking to see if the depth of the tread goes up past his head. I believe the depth is supposed to be 3/32&quot; or more to be good. The penny test is just rule of thumb. If the top of Abe's head is anywhere close to being seen, you probably need new tires. You are not looking to see if it will stand up, but that of the distance of the thread to the base of the groove. Use this at the least tread, not the most tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T14:41:06.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2014-04-18T19:43:50.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to check is to see if one of the smaller turn signal bulbs are out. When any of the bulbs are out, the turn signal will blink faster. You may have one or more marker lights on the side of the car which function as a turn signal light. If out, this could be your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T19:43:50.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9534" CreationDate="2014-04-18T23:15:35.147" Score="1" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a one that's completely dead, but say an AGM battery that's at 75% and I want to top it off before trying to use it again.  Can I use a regular lead acid battery charger?  Do I have to worry about if the charger has a desulfation circuit (which they ALL seem to now, I couldn't find one without, I know they're death to Li-Po batteries)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T01:53:47.073" Title="How do I charge an AGM battery?" Tags="|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9533" CreationDate="2014-04-18T23:28:54.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the desulfation circuit, although there are mixed reviews about how effective they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, AGMs are more sensitive to overcharging than a standard SLA (sealed lead-acid) batteries.  Actually, it's not the main charging cycle that is harmful, but the float-charge cycle that is used to top them off.  If you are getting a new charger, make sure it has a setting for AGM batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detailed information can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T23:28:54.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2014-04-19T09:38:49.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about buying an electric fuel heater which heats the fuel before it gets to the injection pump? There are various on ebay intended for running vegetable oil instead of diesel and are easy to install, though I would seek advice on which would be the best for your application. They're not cheap but would still be cheaper than replacing your starter motor which you are caning. Running a starter moter for two minutes is not good for it and it will give up eventually. Hope this helps and isn't too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4904" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T09:38:49.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9538" CreationDate="2014-04-19T19:42:35.140" Score="0" ViewCount="2401" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some cars now the radio antenna is in the windscreen, however, in my experience the radio has always been rubbish on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They often seem to get a bad FM reception, where other cars get them very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can see are disadvantages with this idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor Reception&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see anything good about this idea? What is the point of this terrible design choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T21:43:57.987" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T21:43:57.987" Title="Why do some cars have their radio antennas in the windscreen?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T05:25:51.503" Score="5" ViewCount="24231" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '05 Mazda Tribute (just over 200,000 miles) is having problems with the A/C. A while back it was the freon according to the previous owner. I connected a pressure gauge to the low pressure end of the A/C tubes, and the pressure wasn't dropping once I turned the car on (my understanding is that it drops as the clutch engages - if that is wrong, please correct me). So I checked the clutch to see if it's spinning, and it is not.  From there I check the fuse, and it is still good. After that I check the relay, and it appears to be good. When I later turned the car off and turned it back on, the A/C clutch was intermittently spinning for a few minutes and then stopped spinning all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the power supplied through the relay go in and out(causing the clutch to start and stop spinning)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the fact that the clutch is only spinning part of the time mean that I should replace the belt? And if so, any special requirements other than releasing the tension on the belt, remove old one and repeat for installing the new one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the fact that the clutch is only spinngin part of the time mean that I should replace the clutch? And if so, how do I do that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T17:26:31.607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T00:02:10.653" Title="Do I need to replace the A/C Clutch, A/C Relay, or A/C Belt?" Tags="|mazda|ac|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2014-04-20T14:51:41.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They get damaged less (think automatic car washes) and I would say a car looks cleaner with it in the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T14:51:41.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:00:48.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one's mentioned the simplest thing yet.  If the system is overfilled, it will overflow.  As it heats up, the coolant expands and that is why you don't fill up the overflow bottle all of the way.  (If you are pouring fluid directly into the radiator, you do fill it up completely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T15:00:48.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2014-04-20T18:53:13.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things come to mind: 1) Your cap isn't sealing properly or the spring has worn out, meaning you don't have enough pressure in your coolant system, allowing the coolant to expand and overflow. OR 2) You have an air bubble trapped somewhere and when the engine heats up, the bubble expands and causes the coolant to overflow. To get rid of a trapped bubble, you need to &quot;burp&quot; your car, i.e. wait til it cools off, remove the radiator cap or coolant overflow bottle cap, turn the car on and let it heat up, when the fan comes on, put your aircon on HOT and put the blower on full. You should see a few bubbles coming up into the radiator/coolant bottle and the level should go down somewhat. After that's done, top it up if necessary and go for a drive. If the problem's gone, it was #2, else you need to replace your cap. It's about $10 (or whatever currency you have where you live).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still persists, you probably have a bad gasket and will need to have a pressure test done to confirm. Also look out for &quot;chocoloate milk&quot; in your oil or clowdy coolant, which are signs of a blown gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T18:53:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14788" CreationDate="2014-04-21T00:43:48.097" Score="17" ViewCount="416458" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when I brake at low speeds I hear a clicking type sound, that is fairly faint. I do NOT hear squeaking, grinding or any high pitched noises that might indicate my brake pads are wearing down, or anything that sounds really bad. I also do NOT feel anything in the pedal with the clicking/tapping. It seems to come from the front left tire, but I can't say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple months ago I did have to get my rotors resurfaced, and I believe they put new break pads on at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the possible causes? How serious of an issue is it likely to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota Yaris '09&#xA;~100,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T01:50:46.750" Title="Clicking type sound when braking at low speeds" Tags="|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9548" CreationDate="2014-04-21T04:01:25.507" Score="5" ViewCount="134102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I was doing a simple DIY brake pad change and it seems that the brake caliper got stuck (the the brake line seem to be slightly twisted).  I went for a test drive in the neighbor and unfortunately, the front driver side brakes started smoking and the rotors actually turned red from the immense heat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I messed up and made a noobie and stupid mistake on my part but I'm wondering what else I could've messed up.  I'm guessing since the brakes were smoking and the rotors were red (with heat), the rotors are warped.  I'm hoping thats the extent of the damage but I'm wondering what else could be affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it short&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) stuck brake caliper, most likely due to bent brake line&#xA;2) test drove and braked at 35mph and front driver side brake started smoking, turning bright red and loud noise&#xA;3) I tried to take off the caliper but it seemed stuck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Outside of brake pad and rotor, what else could be damaged due to a stuck brake caliper?&#xA;2) If the caliper is stuck due to a twisted brake line, can I just bleed it to uncompress the brake caliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for any answers and to save you guys time, yes...I messed up and made stupid mistakes but I will learn from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4909" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T11:23:31.270" Title="Changed my brake pads but brakes started smoking due to a stuck caliper (99 Honda Accord)" Tags="|brakes|accord|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2014-04-21T13:14:53.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be something really obvious - the clicking could be caused by a small object that is stuck in your tire tread like a pebble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect your tire tread; if there is something stuck you should be able to pry it out with relative ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T13:14:53.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9545" CreationDate="2014-04-21T16:28:52.913" Score="1" ViewCount="11817" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this part pictured below called? It is a roughly rectangular piece of plastic located in the center console, with a cutout containing a cloth or leather hood that covers the shifter lever itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8aOLn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is from a 2000 Audi A4 B5, 1.9 TDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4911" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T01:03:07.467" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T01:03:07.467" Title="What is the plastic and cloth part around the shifter called?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2014-04-21T17:32:39.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is normally called something close to the &quot;Audi A4 shifter trim.&quot;  If you google for relevant images, you see a whole variety of pieces that look like your outline.  Here is an example (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://audis4parts.com/interior-parts/00-01-02-audi-a4-s4-oem-shifter-trim-boot-leather/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this vendor's site&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7aum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T17:32:39.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9537" CreationDate="2014-04-21T18:06:15.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there is anything physically wrong with your clutch or belt. The clutch is designed to be turned on and off as needed. You can test the clutch by locating the relay located in the engine side fuse panel, then jump the power to the clutch pin. You have to pull the relay to do this. If you can manually engage the clutch by doing this, you can prove whether the clutch is working correctly. Usually, the bearings will be the first thing to go out on the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clutch proves out to be good, the next thing you can check is to see if the relay itself is bad. Change this out with another relay in the same fuse panel as they are standard. As long as they are the same shape, they should be exactly the same. You can also apply power to the subject (12v) relay while checking continuity. You can use this diagram to see how the relay lines up (if not exactly the same, it should look something like this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHlw3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Relay Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are in the fuse panel, you might also check to see if the fuse is good there (assuming there is one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a pressure sensor, which, when the pressure gets low (I believe), it tells the A/C compressor to kick on. I'm not positive on how you can test this, though. If it isn't working correctly, it won't be telling the computer that your A/C compressor clutch needs to activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of this looks good, I think your problem lies in the amount of refrigerant in your system. You can get refrigerant from your local auto parts store or Walmart, some of which comes with a gauge. This will allow you to recharge the system if needed. It also gives you instructions on exactly how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T18:06:15.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9544" CreationDate="2014-04-22T00:50:30.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hard plastic pieces are generally referred to a the console. The soft part that surrounds the shifter is called the boot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T00:50:30.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2014-04-22T01:12:02.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The caliper should be fine once the brake line issue is repaired providing it didn't get hot enough to melt the seals. The pads may appear fine but I would replace them. Pads that got that hot mays have hairline cracks in them. The cracks could eventually cause pieces of the lining to flake off. The rotor is likely in need of replacement also. As far as potential collateral damage the only thing that may be an issue is the front wheel bearing. At the worst you may have taken a few thousand miles off it's life expectancy. I wouldn't worry about it until you start having problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T01:12:02.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T01:55:49.480" Score="1" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed new pioneer speakers in a 2002 WRX Sedan and they are only working on and off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took off the door panel and started to undo the bolts that mounted the speakers and it started sparking on the bolt where it attached to the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would it be sparking on the bolts holding it in place? If I take out all the bolts that don't touch the metal door will it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T01:55:49.480" Title="new speakers sparking on bolts holding it in place" Tags="|subaru|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T04:16:16.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T02:50:33.350" Score="2" ViewCount="2276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai Accent battery will not charge.&#xA;Had battery tested, bad, replaced.&#xA;Had alternator tested, bad, replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed the alternator myself, from what I remember it was connected by two plugs, and a belt and those were assembled as I remembered taking them off. &#xA;Is there supposed to be 3 plugs, a ground or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front headlights also wont work and I've checked all my &amp;lt; 30 watt fuses, all good.&#xA;I'm about to replace my battery connectors but I don't think is the problem.&#xA;Belt is not squeaking and seems to be running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot get my headlights to work or my battery to charge.&#xA;My question is did I install my alternator right, and why is it not charging?&#xA;Bonus question : Could one of those bigger fuses being blown be the culprit to both my problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4912" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T10:31:38.037" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T19:00:31.980" Title="2002 Hyundai Accent not charging battery" Tags="|battery|alternator|hyundai|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2014-04-22T10:28:32.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple test to narrow it down a bit - do the three bulbs light when you put the hazard-warning lights on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, my first culprit would be the switch, and if not, a wiring fault...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T10:28:32.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:24:46.753" Score="2" ViewCount="79300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an imported Toyota from japan with Toyota Genuine HDD Navigation and music  system(NHDN-W56). The problem is that the whole thing is in japanese,can anyone help me how to change the language from Japanese to English?&#xA;below are the images of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eko79.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Navigation and audio system&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who can help, thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4914" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T13:25:40.863" Title="Change language of Toyota HDD Navigation (NHDN-W56) from japanese to english" Tags="|toyota|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9555" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:29:03.087" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I filled up the coolant a few months ago and today I found the coolant level is near MIN. Is it normal that coolant &quot;evaporates&quot; over time? Or does it mean that it is leaking somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4092" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T10:18:08.333" Title="Where does the coolant go?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:55:11.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not normal. If it happens over the course of a couple of months, it probably means that there is a very tiny leak somewhere and when the coolant gets hot enough, some of it escapes as steam. Check your cap's tightness first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you're unlucky and your car recently overheated, it may have caused your head gasket to blow in such a way that coolant gets sucked into the cylinder and is expelled through the exhaust, but that usually drinks up the coolant fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T10:18:08.333" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T10:18:08.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2014-04-22T16:00:46.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH)&lt;/a&gt; and fuel mileage. Don't have any reference for that but I believe that was the reason giving in the dealer tech publications when this started 10 plus years ago. I am not sure the antenna is to blame for the poor reception though, in my experience it the factory radios that have the poor reception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T16:00:46.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T19:09:39.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to riding motorcycle. And I tend to use my legs a little forcibly while changing gears. A friend told me that this would cause the gearbox to wear out soon. He suggested me to do it gently such that it wouldn't make any sound. I am trying to do this right, but the sound always comes no matter how gently I press the gear. Is it true that this behavior can cause damage to gearbox or is it just a myth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4915" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T19:39:43.027" Title="gentle vs Forced push of motorcycle gear - wear and tear" Tags="|transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-09T14:38:56.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2014-04-22T21:23:32.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at the springs, shims and clips that hold the pads in place. It is possible that one of the springs has weakened or rusted. When the brakes are applied the pad shifts resulting in the click. If you remove the pads you may detect a shiny spot on one or more of the &quot;ears&quot; of the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T21:23:32.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9553" CreationDate="2014-04-23T10:32:12.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a long look around and the only solution seems to be a firmware update. You will have to contact the manufacturer of the device for assistance. Luckily the manufacturer is Panasonic, so you have a slightly better than average chance of being helped. Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://panasonic.net/products/cars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; and click on the &quot;consumer Support&quot; link. There's a link to tech support too, but it didn't seem terribly helpful to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T10:32:12.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-23T10:47:19.283" Score="2" ViewCount="7311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I serviced my 2002 Forester at the dealership shop. I was told that the brake pads have 2mm left on them, and they recommended replacing the pads and the rotors (disks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally tend to be gentle on my brakes, and they usually last for a fair amount of miles. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many more miles can I expect from these pads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it really necessary to replace the rotors as well when the pads are consumed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T19:09:03.627" Title="Remaining life expectancy of brake pads and rotors" Tags="|brakes|subaru|brake-rotor|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2014-04-23T11:45:59.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to risk your safety and the safety of your passengers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your rotors, it all depends on the condition of the rotor. It &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt;, however, be either replaced or resurfaced. Considering you can get brand new rotors for a little more than what resurfacing would cost, I almost always suggest people should just get new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T11:45:59.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9649" CreationDate="2014-04-23T12:25:14.403" Score="5" ViewCount="7005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my car to my mechanic for a mandatory inspection for registration.&#xA;The car is a 2000 Hyundai Elantra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needed a bit of work to pass and they did the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced one wheel with spare (the one on the car was running out of tread)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced driveshaft seal &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced driveshaft boot&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced two brake cylinders&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced cracked engine mounting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replaced centre and rear exhaust&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rear brake shoes replaced&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as other things like new wiper blades etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting the car back it seemed fine until I went on a faster road 70-80kph (45-50mph) at which time I noticed that after each small bump this could cause the car to bounce quite a bit. To the point at which I would nearly hit my head on the roof of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding of cars, this seems firstly like a suspension problem, specifically the dampers (struts) failing. I've read about there being issues with Hyundais of around this era where the struts fail when fully extended after being lifted in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took it back for them to look at here is what they've done&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Firstly we confirmed the tyre pressure was correct, and we also made sure that the mechanic on duty didn't increase tyre pressure at all during the service&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They suspected the spare tyre so they put the original back on and tested, no difference &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They then suspected the struts as I did, and although they said it felt fine from pushing on it, they replaced both front first and tested, still no difference &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They then tried replacing the rear struts.. still no difference&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They replace all wheels... just in case still no difference&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem to be running out of ideas, and I'm considering taking the car elsewhere, but I'm curious to know what others might think of this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4918" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T23:49:29.290" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T08:16:30.353" Title="What could be causing this bouncing?" Tags="|troubleshooting|suspension|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9557" CreationDate="2014-04-23T12:38:11.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a book called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0615754090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; by Carrol Smith. In the book he talked about the amount of stress any piece of metal can sustain before failure. He described how, for instance, a valve spring can handle many, many, many, revolutions of the camshaft as it bumps the valve train. It can deal with this over and over again as long as the lift of the camshaft doesn't exceed the designed limit of what the spring can handle. As long as the spring is operated within its design specs, it can virtually last forever. If the camshaft is changed out for one with a larger lift, which exceeds the design of the spring, the spring's life expectancy goes down dramatically. The larger the lift, the sooner the spring will fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this apply to what you are doing and experiencing? While &lt;em&gt;banging&lt;/em&gt; the gears, as you are doing is probably not going to cause any noticeable damage right away, the more you do it, the sooner some part of the shifting mechanism or transmission is going to fail (either the lever, a gear, or whatever). It may be more fun to drive your bike by banging the gears, but do you need to do it to accomplish the gear shift? If not, you are causing undue wear upon the parts. Your banging the gears could cause stress risers to form, which, over time, will cause a part to fail. &lt;strong&gt;I would suggest your friend is spot on&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T12:38:11.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9550" CreationDate="2014-04-23T18:50:45.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a &gt; 30 fuse blown. Replaced that and tightened battery connectors. &#xA;Also fuse under the steering wheel was blown. Fixed that, and I had headlights.&#xA;Battery seems to be charging now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses, I checked them and missed some blown ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4912" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T18:50:45.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2014-04-23T19:09:03.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear sensor to fail (note: not every car has a brake pad wear sensor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CS79u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New vs Old Brake Pads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need to replace rotors depends on the condition of the rotor surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T19:09:03.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-23T20:23:46.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 RAV4 with 120,000 that's vibrating at Stops when in Drive, but not when in Neutral. Would it help long term if I used Neutral when stopped?  OR should I start looking for another car?  I'm not a mechanic.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4920" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T21:03:49.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T09:50:59.773" Title="Vibrates in Idle" Tags="|toyota|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9557" CreationDate="2014-04-23T23:44:23.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you change gear you don't use your whole leg to change from one gear to another. You should be able to just use your foot and ankle without moving anything above your shin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to move the whole leg to change you should change the position of the gear leaver so it is closer to your foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this there is usually a bolt on the gear leaver that you can loosen off and then change the position of the leaver. Make sure the bolt it placed back on and fastened tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In-regards to sound when changing gears this depends on the type of bike you ride. On my KLX 250 there is no issue with gear changes but guaranteed on a Harley Fatboy there will be a bigger clicking noise when changing into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to find out it to ask a dealer how much noise there should be between gear changes. They might tell you there should be nothing or that it is the nature of the beast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2825" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T23:44:23.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9569" CreationDate="2014-04-24T02:31:36.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This hardly sounds like a problem for which the whole vehicle needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms could be explained by a misfiring cylinder, in which the vibrations are most obvious at idle and with the drivetrain engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common causes for misfires include ageing spark plugs/wires, absence of spark or improper fuel delivery (usually a clogged fuel injector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T10:33:57.260" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T10:33:57.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-24T11:15:37.147" Score="3" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the clutch on an '84 Ford Bronco 2 (2.9L). After removing the transmission I found out that the throw-out bearing and slave cylinder were completely destroyed. I replaced both parts and thoroughly bled the hydraulic clutch lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I was done with the install the clutch pedal has a little pressure but will not disengage the clutch to allow the transmission to go into another gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After researching online I think I may have put the self-centering throw-out bearing in the wrong direction. Please help. How do I know which direction to place the bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4925" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T13:25:28.953" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T20:04:52.817" Title="Replaced clutch on '84 Bronco 2, now clutch does not disengage" Tags="|ford|clutch|bronco|throw-out-bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9578" CreationDate="2014-04-24T17:25:24.517" Score="3" ViewCount="3009" Body="&lt;p&gt;They'll cost me £21.06 each. I watched a video on YouTube that showed a guy clipping of the engine cover and pulling out and plugging in the coils. I'm not 100% sure what BMW model this was but it looked fairly straight forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's easier than putting together an exercise power rack then I'd like to have a crack at it and save myself some money. My mechanic is good at stretching labour charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard there is a particular set I need to avoid. Any advice on this too? I've been quoted on a set of bosch ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4928" LastEditorUserId="4928" LastEditDate="2018-12-29T18:34:01.900" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T18:34:01.900" Title="Are ignition coils easy to replace on a BMW 318i 2.0L 2007 msport model?" Tags="|bmw|sparkplugs|misfire|diy|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9575" CreationDate="2014-04-24T20:42:32.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to do this with a basic set of hand tools (ratchet/socket set). I don't know what it involves to get any covers off (may require some torx sockets or drivers to remove, though is probably only connected by some 10mm bolts or fasteners). The coil itself is a &quot;coil-on&quot; configuration which, in and of itself, does not require any tools to remove. You flip the small piece which holds the wires in place (easily seen on a replacement coil), detach the wire connector, pull on the coil while giving it a little twist and it should pull right out. Replace it with the new one and you should be golden. Put a small amount of dielectric grease inside the boot side (which connects to the spark plug) of the new coil before installation. This will help it from sticking when you want to replace the spark plugs. If you are changing more than one coil, do it one at a time. It really shouldn't be hard to do. Just keep track of your parts you pull off (engine cover, bolts, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found what appears to be good instructions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/ENGINE-Spark_Plug_Coil_Replacement/ENGINE-Spark_Plug_Coil_Replacement.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (though it shows a 6-cyl model) and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/B_012eIMKf0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video of an older model&lt;/a&gt; where the guy is replacing the spark plugs. This may be useful for removal of any engine covers. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T20:42:32.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9575" CreationDate="2014-04-24T20:49:22.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW TIS details the instructions (I assume your engine is an N46):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e90/318i_n46_sal/2_repair_instructions/12__engine_electrical_system_%28n46%29/13__ignition_coil/2_ra__removing_ignition_coil_cover_%28n46t%29/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remove the ignition coil covers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e90/318i_n46_sal/2_repair_instructions/12__engine_electrical_system_%28n46%29/13__ignition_coil/5_ra__replacing_ignition_coils_%28n42_n40_n46_n45%29/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remove the ignition coils&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the instructions it should be a breeze (at least easier than my S62!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T20:49:22.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9573" CreationDate="2014-04-24T21:22:33.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I believe it would be pretty hard to get the throw out bearing in&#xA;backwards. &lt;strong&gt;Flat side towards the clutch&lt;/strong&gt;, right? it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be the&#xA;case, but I find it highly unlikely. (See the picture below) What you see&#xA;is the side which goes towards the transmission. &lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This type of throwout bearing is supposed to be self aligning ... that is the reason for the pointy part. In practice it doesn't work that well, but at any rate, the pointy part should be &lt;strong&gt;away&lt;/strong&gt; from the clutch fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How tight did you tighten bolts for the pressure plate to the&#xA;flywheel? The spec calls for 15-24 ft lbs. This is not a lot of&#xA;torque (may more easily be done using an inch-pound torque wrench at&#xA;180-288 in lbs). If you used a ratchet and just had at it, the&#xA;assembly is probably too tight and may be causing your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; A third problem may be that the slave cylinder is pushing away from the clutch pedal, flexing the firewall. If it is, you'll need to reinforce the firewall. You can have someone pump on the pedal to see if there is any movement while you watch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUJbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throw out bearing for Bronco II&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T23:03:24.923" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-25T01:56:35.613" Score="2" ViewCount="4142" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford Escape started making an unusual noise recently.  Would appreciate if anyone can help me diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The noise only occurs when I brake and only when my speed gets down to about 15 mph or less&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a grinding, crunching sort of sound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a repeated &quot;crunch&quot; &quot;crunch&quot; &quot;crunch&quot; as if something on the axel rubs against something else every time it rotates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It happens regardless of the weather&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds like it's either coming from my back passenger tire or both back tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the problem may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4933" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T13:03:36.520" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T20:36:39.920" Title="2012 Ford Escape grinding noise while braking" Tags="|ford|brakes|escape|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9588" CreationDate="2014-04-25T07:32:04.293" Score="0" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda CBR250R STD 2013 Model's manual state that fuel(petrol) used should be 91 or more. Seems like they have defined the minimum threshold of RON than stating the optimum RON for the given bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is can this model of CBR make use of of features of 93 Octane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your experiences fellow riders/mechanics, which did you find as the optimum RON of fuel (petrol) for this model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="4935" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T11:15:18.620" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:15:18.620" Title="How much Octane Fuel does Honda CBR 250R (India Version) needs? 91 or 93?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-system|compression|octane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8921" CreationDate="2014-04-25T12:24:15.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a SEAT Alhambra, which is quite similar. This is something I looked into before buying the car as I thought I might want to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd row seats in my car are &lt;em&gt;apparently&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. I have not actually done it) removable by unscrewing four Torx bolts. However, I believe that the Sharan is slightly different, in that it has 2nd row side airbags. Removal of these is more complex - in particular, you are supposed to use a blocker which connects to the airbag cable and prevents accidental activation while they are in storage (I suspect all this really does is ground a few pins). The workshop manual (ElsaWin) goes into some detail about the procedure for removing the seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you were to remove all the rear seats, you would then have a big loading lip at the back of the car - i.e. it wouldn't be a flat loading bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4938" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T12:24:15.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9595" CreationDate="2014-04-25T12:29:47.473" Score="3" ViewCount="1818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just wondering, are there any customers of this exotic brand, especially in the US? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And btw can any other EV (e.g. Nissan Leaf, Toyota RAV4 EV) charge at Tesla's fast charging stations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4937" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T13:42:15.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T18:16:31.180" Title="Can the Chinese EV BYD E6 charge at Tesla charging station?" Tags="|electrical|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9585" CreationDate="2014-04-25T13:16:23.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the specs call for 91 octane, use 91 octane. Using higher octane fuel will not give you better performance. Only engines which need the higher octane will see better performance from the higher octane. In most cases, engines which should use the lower octane will get worse gas mileage from the higher octane fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T13:16:23.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-25T13:50:15.777" Score="2" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J8zCV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's clear from the picture but the car doesn't have lug nuts on the rim. So how do they replace tires? No doubt the lack of lug nuts is a security consideration to prevent people from taking tires off or whatever but presumably cop cars still need to have their tires replaced from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T16:50:05.813" Title="why don't police cars have lug nuts?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9584" CreationDate="2014-04-25T16:35:16.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirt in the brake drums (if its not rear disc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pads or shoes have been damaged or become worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardware has come loose and is getting caught as you are braking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rusted drums or discs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should get this check out right away before it causes expensive damage or you loose braking ability all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T16:35:16.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9821" CreationDate="2014-04-25T16:45:28.180" Score="3" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 Mercury Milan is Sirius radio capable. I accepted a free trial but can not get the radio to work. All that is displayed is &lt;code&gt;No Signal&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've called Sirius who graciously walked me through some troubleshooting. To verify the radio ID I was told to hold the &lt;kbd&gt;Sirius&lt;/kbd&gt; and the &lt;kbd&gt;1&lt;/kbd&gt; simultaneously. This did not work. No ID was displayed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sirius tech told me to check the connections to the control unit, but I can not find it. I'm trying to avoid a trip to the dealer. Does anyone know where it is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T18:51:27.747" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T17:49:47.877" Title="Where is the satellite receiver/control for 2010 Mercury Milan?" Tags="|audio|mercury|milan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9589" CreationDate="2014-04-25T16:50:05.813" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! They have lug nuts.&#xA;There is a center cap which is removed to access the lug nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsMz7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;Center Cap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYvtP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;Wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T16:50:05.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9557" CreationDate="2014-04-25T18:40:50.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get better at shifting with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@willNz is correct, this is dependent on the brand of bike. Therefore, difficult to definitive answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you should check is to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and the gearbox has the proper level of lube. Those two things can cause noisy shifting no matter how gentle you are. Cables stretch and parts wear, so it is amazing what a little adjustment can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T18:40:50.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9587" CreationDate="2014-04-25T19:16:40.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer as of right now is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;.  The BYD e6 EV can only be charged by a BYD charging station. If you look at these plugs, you'll see the difference between the two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard J1772 plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HDJbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BYD e6 plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdSz7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2012/07/coming-to-america-the-chinese-byd-e6-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cars.com article&lt;/a&gt; the author talks about charging the e6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The The Chinese-spec model can be charged by a powerful 100-kilowatt charging cabinet, outputting 360 volts DC and an AC output current of 300 amps, which can charge the big battery completely in less than 40 minutes, according to BYD. The only issue with the charger is it's a Chinese standard that's not used in the U.S.; Snower has to charge the model at a BYD charging cabinet he installed in his brother-in-law's house. He told me that BYD is working on putting SAE-compliant charging options on the e6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: In the article, &quot;Snower&quot; is the person in the US who owns the e6 the guy is talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also go to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.byd.com/na/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BYD website&lt;/a&gt; and see what they have to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T19:16:40.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-25T21:49:33.697" Score="2" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an Autolite spark plug available that compares to a Champion J12Y spark plug? I would like to go with an Autolite plug if there is one available which will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of plug would you suggest to run on an old Harley Davidson?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4943" LastEditorUserId="7004" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T11:51:24.660" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T13:21:31.763" Title="Comparison between spark plugs" Tags="|motorcycle|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2014-04-25T22:14:19.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a search on Google and came up with this list from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/J12Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sparkplug-crossreference.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AC Delco 44S  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accel 137  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Autolite 85  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Autolite XS85 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Autolite 4275&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beru 14-8F  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch W8FC  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brisk K17Y &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denso W16PU &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eyquem 500CS  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iskra FS45P&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motorcraft A42  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NGK BP5S &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NGK stk 3011&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to actually see if any of these are a true fit or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what to run, I don't think you've given enough information, or what problems you are currently facing or are trying to overcome. Also, a picture of your current spark plug would help in reading what the spark plug is doing. If it is black and you are seeking black smoke from your tail pipe, you may need a hotter plug (as well as some carb tuning). If it's ashen white, you may be too hot, so might need to go to a cooler plug. If it's just right in the middle (light tan color), the heat range is probably right on. As far as brand, I have never had any luck with Autolite, though people keep using them, so there must be something there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T22:14:19.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-26T10:54:54.820" Score="3" ViewCount="2991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha Cygnus 125 bought in 2010. I need to recharge / change the battery, but I am unable to remove the cover panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is situated in the back, under the seat. The panel got two screws, but they seem to turn without moving. I have also tried to force the panel open with a lever, but it seems to be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual just say &quot;open the panel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an unusual / unintuitive way to open that panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4947" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T13:18:59.770" Title="Remove battery panel on Yamaha Cygnus 125 2010" Tags="|battery|yamaha|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9607" CreationDate="2014-04-27T03:11:56.567" Score="4" ViewCount="82548" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse. We just installed new front brakes. 2yr rotors and lifetime performance ceramic pads. We have used these pads in the past on the car and never experience this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We first noticed an issue when making left turns. When turning there was a constant squeal that seemed to be coming from the front driver side wheel. Noise faded away when driving straight or turning left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noise does not seem to be directly correlated to braking and occurs when no braking is being performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After further investigation I noticed something that further confused me. When driving up and down the driveway I noticed that the front driver wheel made the noise when backing up, and the front passenger when driving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can best describe the noise as something like nails on a chalkboard. A constant high pitched squeal. Perhaps metal on metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4950" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T10:14:08.157" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T14:15:27.767" Title="Front Wheel Squeal When Driving After New Brakes" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|buick|lacrosse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T08:45:42.870" Score="4" ViewCount="48244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having an issue with an '03 Toyota Echo. The alternator died (at least that is what I thought) as the battery kept going flat. I found an alternator at a wrecker and fitted it, and I replaced the battery with a new one. Over the past month the battery has completely died again. It's over a year old now, but I'm getting concerned there could be a problem with the voltage regulator causing batteries to overcharge and boil dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tested it today with a known good battery that was charged up. I drove it for close to an hour just to give it a chance to put some charge in if it needed to and then checked it with a meter. It was still reading 14 volts as though it was still trying to charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not really much of an electrician so maybe I'm missing something. Once fully charged, shouldn't the alternator stop providing a higher voltage? If it is constantly charging would that kill a battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="769" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T00:12:04.953" Title="diagnose faulty voltage regulator causing battery overcharging?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2014-04-27T09:41:30.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The output of an alternator is typically between 13.8-14.2vdc. If you were in the 15vdc or higher range, I'd consider that the alternator is overcharging. It runs continuously at the ~14vdc range to continue to provide all the power the car needs as well as keep the battery charged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like to me your new-ish battery may have gone bad. A cell in it could have gone bad, which won't allow it to recharge correctly. This &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be under warranty (though I'm assuming warranties in AU work the same as they do here in the US), so should be able to get it replaced, or at the very least &lt;em&gt;load tested&lt;/em&gt; to see if this is the case. I am also going to assume most of the major vehicle parts stores in AU are also going to be able to test your alternator for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also check to ensure all of your connections are good. These connections are things like to ensure there is no corrosion at the battery terminals, ensure the connections are tight, ensure your ground (earth) at the body is in good shape (tight as well), ensure the connection at the starter and alternator are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other area of concern might be if you have some type of energy drain when the ignition is off. If you put any type of aftermarket stereo in the vehicle which may be grounding power in some way, or any other type of non-standard equipment in the vehicle, there might be a problem there as well. This type of problem is a lot harder to diagnose as you have to find the culprit which is causing the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T09:41:30.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T10:16:45.993" Score="4" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a BigBoy DRT-250, but I doubt that will be known outside of SA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it serviced at 500km, then 3000km, and 6000km, according to warranty. Then it was highlighted to me that the warranty intervals are 3000km or 3 months, which is ridiculous. I probably do 500km in 3 months, so I ditched the warranty and am doing things myself now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite a good DIY mechanic, but cut my teeth on cars, not bikes. According to ex-warranty, my bike was due for service at 9000km. I thought I'd round off and do a 10,000km service in the upper 9000s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil change.&#xA;Lube and adjust throttle and clutch cables.&#xA;Lube and adjust chain.&#xA;Replace petrol filter.&#xA;Clean air filter.&#xA;Replace and properly gap spark plug.&#xA;Check brake pads and shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:19:56.847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T23:53:12.023" Title="Motorcycle Maintenance Tasks - Please Provide a List of Actions" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|service|chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6925" CreationDate="2014-04-27T20:57:47.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus, in 2006, 2007, installed a wiring harness that was too short.  The harness plugs become loose and in some cases the wire insulation becomes chafed and shorts out the airbag system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In an instant your car value decreases, your airbags won't work and if you're in a State that requires inspections, your car will not pass.  Lexus was aware, early of the problem and will now fix it for you for $2.5k-$3k.&#xA;You paid for lotsa airbags in a car whose airbags will not function properly.!&#xA;What to do?  Take a few minutes and file a complaint with NHSTA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4951" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T20:57:47.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9601" CreationDate="2014-04-27T23:32:33.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found what was causing the noise. There is a small metal plate, roughly sized and shaped like a one of those little wooden ice cream spoons that come with a Dixie cup. It is positioned suspending from the bottom of the hub parallel to the back of the rotor. On both sides of the car it was touching the rotor causing the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jMcxd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the driver side the front portion was touching, and on the passenger the back, which I suppose explains why it seemed to come from one side when backing up and the other when driving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bent this plate back a little and the noise is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is what is this little plate for, and why was it suddenly scraping on both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4950" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T23:32:33.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-28T06:32:27.347" Score="4" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting my car towed to a location for me to pick it up at a later time. I have a spare key and want the driver the lock the other key in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately technology is getting in my way. The boot would seem like an option, but you can't lock the car while the boot is open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while the car is unlocked, so is the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution I have overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4954" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T13:12:05.583" Title="How can I lock keys inside 2007 Mazda6?" Tags="|mazda|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9608" CreationDate="2014-04-28T08:37:37.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have circumvented this feature by opening a front and rear door, close the front door and reach thru from the back seat and manually lock the front door. Manually lock the rear door and shut it. It worked on my Ford Taurus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T08:37:37.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9569" CreationDate="2014-04-28T13:36:30.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not put it in neutral every time you stop.  You risk premature wear and tear on the shifting mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by vibration.  A little (slightly inconsistent) vibration when idling is just fine and is not worth doing anything about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4950" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T13:36:30.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9626" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:02:30.487" Score="8" ViewCount="3624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just took the second head off the 98 Subaru Outback I'm working on and I found one of the alignment dowels was badly crimped over the gasket for about 1/3 of its circumference. I have no idea how it got that way, but unless I do something about it, it's going to be very hard to get the new gasket on it without damaging it, and even if I do it's probably not going to seal right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to deal with this? Is there a decent way to remove and replace the dowel (even a damaged one like this)? Can I just dremel off the crimped part (taking care to shield the block)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's a photo showing the good one (on the upper left) and the crimped one (on the upper right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mD1JM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T17:51:00.790" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T18:03:25.920" Title="What to do with damaged alignment dowels in block?" Tags="|subaru|head-gasket|outback|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:54:44.083" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car second hand and don't know when it was last serviced. Car has done over 100,000 miles, it's a 2004 Corsa. It's due for its MOT, so I was thinking of doing them at the same time. Also, not sure whether to go for full service or interim one. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4956" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T10:16:29.207" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T09:59:33.563" Title="Does my car need a service?" Tags="|service|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9612" CreationDate="2014-04-28T19:06:34.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: &lt;strong&gt;maybe&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most shops will offer some sort of inspection service, recommending items of concern or things that should be fixed right now.  This is usually a for-pay diagnostic process.  Depending on the shop, they may have a fixed price that covers the diagnostics and some low-cost maintenance items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you don't know when the oil was changed, they'd almost certainly recommend new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, this is the 21st century and the shop (especially if they are a dealer) might be able to look up more history than you expect.  For example, my Subaru dealer has access to all the Subaru-performed service that has been performed on my Subarus since we bought them.  Since I used their website for a lot of my own service records, there's more on there than you might expect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T19:06:34.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2014-04-29T04:04:28.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thrust bearing is the problem. I also had a same problem with my polo, someone told me to buy the whole cluch kit that would cost me R1300 guess what, I got that bearing for R70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T04:04:28.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9612" CreationDate="2014-04-29T08:18:13.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - go for a full service - a car with an unknown history should be serviced to a: gain a little insight into the state of the engine and car and b: give you (the new owner) a bit of reassurance that the car wont break due to a small issue and that it will function as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some garages do provide inspection services but I would suggest that given the car has done 100k miles and you dont know when the timing belt was changed that you get it changed as a matter of course - I didn't and had one let go on me resulting in a new engine for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T08:18:13.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:08:19.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions relating to a vehicle's roadwheels - e.g. questions about balancing, wheel types, and damage to wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T17:19:36.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T17:19:36.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:08:19.313" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to a vehicle's roadwheels - e.g. questions about balancing, wheel types, and damage to wheels." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T13:08:19.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T13:08:19.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:12:32.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T13:12:32.680" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T13:12:32.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9620" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:12:32.680" Score="0" Body="Compact car made by the Ford motor company. Replacement for the well-known Escort." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="48711" LastEditDate="2019-05-02T08:33:37.800" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T08:33:37.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-29T15:14:34.567" Score="3" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a XF125GY Supermoto Pioneer 4-stroke single cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put too much oil in it so I did an oil change and put in a new spark plug then I noticed that oil had got into my air filter and that the engine misfires at around 6000 RPM and recovers around 5000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise me on what I should do to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With thanks,&#xA;Richard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T11:51:37.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:34:29.987" Title="How do I fix my XF125GY 4-stroke engine misfires?" Tags="|motorcycle|misfire|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-29T16:22:48.887" Score="4" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's all this thing that we see in films, when to break into a car you stick a long blade with a kind of hook on the end and pull up to open the door? Was it ever possible to open a car door like that? It seems like a huge design flaw, that would have been quite easy to correct. Are our cars that vulnerable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4966" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:55:40.177" Title="Sticking a blade between door and window to open the door?" Tags="|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2014-04-29T16:56:38.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's generally called a &quot;slim jim&quot;.  They certainly work on most older cars.  Newer cars are more difficult, but it just takes different kinds of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slim jims are illegal in some jurisdictions (in the USA, at least), although in some states you can own them as long as you don't use them :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever lock your keys in your car, and call AAA or a locksmith, they'll likely use modified slim jims to easily get into your car.  It only takes a minute or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that automobile ignition systems are so complex (with electonic keys, etc.), it's difficult for a thief to steal a car even if he gets the door open.  But, if the thief just wants to take something from your car, he can always just break a window.  Vulnerability is in the eye of the beholder!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T16:56:38.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9611" CreationDate="2014-04-29T17:09:22.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a conventional dowel pin then I expect you should be able to coax it out with a pair of pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:09:22.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2014-04-29T17:55:40.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For older cars, securing them really wasn't considered that much of a big deal (similarly, safety wasn't that important either!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until relatively recently, the residents of the town I grew up in wouldn't lock their cars, and sometimes would leave the keys in the ignition, so that they could be moved easily if someone needed them to get past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the mechanism that locked the door was not protected physically or electronically - and a slim instrument (the Slim Jim) was all you needed to get down past the rubber window seal to catch one of the mechanism rods and pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:55:40.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9611" CreationDate="2014-04-29T18:03:25.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Bob Cross's request, I'll throw an answer out here for you. The information given is with the assumption your engine is an EJ25 series engine, which the 98 Legacy (assumed) Outback had, which is most likely the EJ25D (please correct me if not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many people call this a &quot;dowel pin&quot;, Subaru calls it a &lt;strong&gt;straight pin&lt;/strong&gt;. It should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be threaded (should be press fit). I found pn &lt;a href=&quot;http://parts.raffertysubaru.com/p/STRAIGHT-PIN-----------------------------EJ252PCS/49286943/804010070.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;804010070&lt;/a&gt; which I believe is the right part number, but check with your Subaru dealer before you order. From your description, yours &lt;strong&gt;absolutely will need replaced&lt;/strong&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to be pulled out by grabbing with a pair of Vice-Grips and a gentle wiggle (maybe even a firm wiggle). Use a brass drift to gently install a new one. You do not want to damage the deck surface (where the head mounts to the engine) when installing the new straight pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to look at here is whether there is damage to the head where the old straight pin may have dug into it. If damaged the head may require repair or replacement. You'd have to take it to a machinist to see which route it may need to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T18:03:25.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-29T21:37:09.743" Score="8" ViewCount="27909" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back story:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Check Engine light came on in my 2005 Chevrolet Malibu LS Sedan (V6 3.5L). I took the car to a mechanic #1 (M1), an independent shop. They replaced the EGR valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A day later, the Check Engine light came on again. I took it back to M1. M1 inspected further and suspected exhaust system issues. Without my consent, they applied sealant (kind unknown) around some joints. Hypothesis: a leaking exhaust system caused the Check Engine light to come back. I was told to monitor and report back if it happened again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Days later, I took the car out for a longer drive. The Check Engine light was OK but I could smell a burnt chemical odor coming in after the engine was warmed up. It was worse when idling at a stop light, or when driving slowly, and without the cabin air recirculating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I brought the car back to M1. I told them about the bad smell. I said I have children and don't want them in the car with a smell like that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M1 raised the car up to show me where they had applied sealant. They said it will smell as it &quot;burns off&quot;, but it hasn't stopped yet. They suggested it was a patch job merely to troubleshoot the engine code / EGR fix, and my exhaust system would need significant additional work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took the car to mechanic #2 (M2), a dealership's service centre, and asked for a thorough inspection. I mentioned the likely exhaust issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M2 confirmed the exhaust system has issues and suggested the sealant used couldn't be easily removed and that more or less I would need to replace the exhaust system. The exhaust manifold is OK, but from there to back should be replaced. Estimated parts &amp;amp; labour ~$2100 (Canadian), but suggested if cost an issue then I might prefer a shop that specializes in exhaust systems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I called mechanic #3 (M3), a franchise of a major &quot;muffler&quot; chain. I asked what it would cost to replace the entire exhaust system for my car. They were skeptical when I said I needed the entire system replaced. But, they did give me a ballpark estimate of ~$1400 just for parts. Labour and tax would bring it to the same ballpark as the dealer's estimate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, given M3's skepticism about replacing the entire system, I did a bit more research. I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/how-to-maintain-your-new-car/index.htm&quot;&gt;this page at Consumer Reports&lt;/a&gt;. Here's the part I'm asking about with &lt;em&gt;my emphasis&lt;/em&gt; added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Inspect the exhaust system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you’re willing to make under-car inspections, check for&#xA;  rusted-through exhaust parts that need replacing. Also tighten loose&#xA;  clamps. Do this while the car is up on ramps. If a shop changes your&#xA;  oil, have them make these checks. Listen for changes in the exhaust&#xA;  sound while driving. &lt;em&gt;It’s usually advisable to replace the entire&#xA;  exhaust system all at once rather than to repair sections at different&#xA;  times.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the dealership and Consumer Reports seem to support the idea of replacing my car's entire exhaust system. However, the &quot;muffler&quot; chain franchise gave me the impression that it is unlikely necessary, and that I could bring the car in for them to have a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once? Are there bits &amp;amp; pieces that could be salvaged, or is doing that asking for trouble later? How should I proceed to get my problem solved in a cost-effective manner? I'd like to continue driving this car for another couple of years, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastEditorUserId="3533" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T21:45:12.233" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:29:50.100" Title="Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once?" Tags="|chevrolet|exhaust|cel|replace|egr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9628" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:12:17.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your car is almost 10 years old, having to replace all of the parts in the exhaust system does not sound unreasonable, especially if your locality uses any type of road solvent during the winter months (they didn't in Montana where I'm from originally, but thought they might in Toronto). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there bits &amp;amp; pieces that could be salvaged, or is doing that asking for trouble later? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably salvage smaller things like the isolators (rubber parts which suspend the exhaust without allowing much noise/vibration transference into the cabin), but depending on the shape of the other components, you probably are not going to salvage much else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How should I proceed to get my problem solved in a cost-effective manner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would do it myself. If you have a friend who would willing to help you, you could probably do this work yourself with basic hand tools, jack stands, and a sawzall. All of the parts you'd need are readily available online from places like RockAuto.com, which also includes catalytic converter (though I don't know Canadian regulations on purchase &amp;amp; replacement). Stock replacement parts are available, which means you don't need to go to the dealership (affectionately called the &lt;em&gt;stealership&lt;/em&gt; for obvious reasons). When I say they are &quot;stock replacement&quot;, I'm telling you they are bent to spec, with hangers in the proper location. While a lot of work (just physically a lot of work), it really isn't that hard to replace these (though a lift makes it &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier). For about a 1/3 of the cost of what they are quoting, you could have the entire exhaust system replaced doing it yourself. Alternatively, you might also be able to barter some work out of someone as well ... nothing like going old school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, exhaust systems are just one of those things which, if not made of stainless steel (which I'm surprised yours is not), goes bad after a while. The elements and the heat from the exhaust itself causes the metal to break down. Mother Nature will not be denied. If you took it to several mechanics which said the same thing, I'd be tempted to believe them. You may want to take it to one last mechanic (different, of course). Tell them you think you might be having exhaust issues and wonder what it would cost to get it fixed, without giving them further details. Also, ask them if they can show you what the problems are if they put it on a lift so you can see for yourself. This will give you a good idea of what is wrong and why they need to replace what they say needs replacing. Exhaust is pretty self evident due to rust and such. They should be able to point it out fairly easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T10:21:45.113" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T10:21:45.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Buick LaCrosse is a mid-size sedan produced by the American manufacturer General Motors since 2004 (for the 2005 model year). It replaced the Century and Regal in North America beginning in the 2005 model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" Score="0" Body="General Motors, Buick brand of mid-sized sedan produced from 2005-present." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:20:10.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:20:36.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try checking the voltage at the battery terminals/alternator while revving the engine?  I had a similar problem, did this and found that the volts output by the alternator went up to 18v (at around 3000rpm on a Diesel where redline was 4000rpm).  The regulator should keep the voltage at less than 14.2v to prevent cooking the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all the time I was driving the battery would have been getting 18v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you will know if it is the voltage regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4970" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:20:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9633" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mercury Milan was a mid-size sedan based on the Mazda designed Ford CD3 platform built by Ford Motor Company and distributed by the Lincoln-Mercury division. It is a twin of the Ford Fusion, while being slotted below the luxury-spec Lincoln MKZ (formerly Zephyr) sedan. The Milan was first shown at the 2005 Chicago Auto Show, and was sold in the United States (including Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands), Mexico, and the Middle East. With Ford eliminating the Mercury division, production of the Milan ended December 17, 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9634" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" Score="0" Body="Ford Motor Company, Lincoln-Mercury division, mid-sized automobile produced between 2005-2010 (2011 model year)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:24:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9635" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9636" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" Score="0" Body="Ford Motor Company Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV), produced between 1966-1996." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:27:06.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9637" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9638" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" Score="0" Body="Device which is used to disengage the clutch, which disconnects the power output of the engine to the transmission." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:28:27.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:16:04.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I hope you have drained the excess oil, you'll also need to clean the air filter and spark plugs to ensure they are all working as they should.  You may have to remove the air filter housing to give it a good clean with carb cleaner or brake cleaner to remove the oil build up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs should be cleaned with a similarly volatile cleaner so no oily residue is left and can be cleaned with a stiff nylon brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T13:16:04.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9643" CreationDate="2014-04-30T18:35:36.317" Score="5" ViewCount="9065" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 Honda Accord (manual) 200k+ miles is choking on startups, especially after rainfall. Been happening for a few months now, had it inspected recently and the mechanic saw no issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting up, the car will make awful sputtering noises as long as I have the key turned. Generally will only start if I pump the gas while turning the key. The RPMs then shoot up and the car will go. Takes anywhere from 1min to 20mins to get it to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does not happen every time, starts beautifully most of the time. Problem generally seen after rainfall. To demonstrate my lack of car knowledge, I'll sometimes use a fuel additive to try and dry out my tank (?). Found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1851/stuttering-accord-at-stop-lights&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; that seemed similar, do you guys think it's spark plug wires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4973" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:33:36.463" Title="Honda Accord sputtering/choking on start" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9642" CreationDate="2014-04-30T19:18:33.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get  old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can &lt;em&gt;leak&lt;/em&gt; electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory by spraying clean water under the hood just before trying to start the motor. This would not be a deluge of water, just enough to get things damp in the area of the wires, cap, &amp;amp; coil. Also, just because you don't see a light show at night does not mean this isn't exactly the problem. I've seen on a Honda I used to own where the coil arced to the body in a place where it was not easily seen. I finally found the issue, replaced the wires and this fixed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else which is bothering me about the actions you are performing. You said you will pump the gas to get it going. I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; your car should be fuel injected (in fact I'm pretty sure it is). You should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pump the gas in a fuel injected vehicle. This can mess with your tuning as well as not do what you'd expect. There is not accelerator pump on it like there was on carbureted cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You can actually check it in the dark while it's damp, if you've got the means, like under a carport or inside a garage (door open, please ... don't want nasty Carbon Monoxide buildup!). It won't take long to see what I'm talking about if it's present, well at least for the wires. You can also inspect the cap for any type of carbon tracking, something like is shown in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bD5Y7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you can do in the mean time is to spray the inside of the cap and the rotor with WD-40, which will help alleviate the problem somewhat if the problem resides in the cap. The &quot;WD&quot; in WD-40 stands for &quot;Water Displacement&quot;, so it will keep the moisture inside the cap down to a minimum and help prevent the electrical leakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T20:03:41.687" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T20:03:41.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T22:24:28.663" Score="6" ViewCount="17302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be replacing the struts and shocks on my car soon. I did them last about 80000 km ago, but at that time I did not replace the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do springs wear out over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I replace them this time around? None of the springs are damaged in any way, but they do have just under 200000 km on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4059" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:11:36.323" Title="Do springs wear out?" Tags="|suspension|springs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9644" CreationDate="2014-04-30T22:42:30.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Springs do wear out overtime or with severe duty use. You can determine if they are sagging by checking the ride height. Where this measurement is taken and what is normal varies with each vehicle type and brand. The spring is what determines ride height, as it is the component that is supporting the vehicles weight. One of the leading causes of spring failure is worn struts. The struts control the rate at which the spring compresses and extends. Worn struts allow the spring to move to quickly and results in metal fatigue. You may want to consider buying loaded struts. The strut comes as an assembly with a new spring. They are generally cheaper than buying the parts separately and there is a labor savings since the old struts don't need to be disassembled. Since most of us don't have a strut compression tool to remove the spring buying the entire assembly can turn it into a DIY project for additional savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T08:44:39.763" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T08:44:39.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17657" CreationDate="2014-05-01T01:16:31.703" Score="3" ViewCount="3488" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo 850's dashboard lights and instrument lights for the radio and A/C are not working properly. This happened two nights ago when I was driving, everything just went dark. The lights in the car worked, and so did the radio. After a few hours, the lights started working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then last night, the lights went out again while driving at night.&#xA;I checked the fuses and there doesn't seem to be a problem. This morning, I went to check the lights and it's all back to normal again. What could have been the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T15:35:13.617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:52:14.317" Title="Volvo 850 dashboard lights not working" Tags="|volvo|lights|850|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9001" CreationDate="2014-05-01T02:35:57.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being that I'm mostly done with the job, here are some additional tools that have come in handy, beyond what I originally mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable (or large, maybe 1-inch) wrenches to grab the hex on the cams and lock in place to break the cam sprocket bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17mm open-end wrench (other people say screwdriver, but the wrench works much better!) to wedge in the flywheel while breaking the crankshaft pulley bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2-inch drive wrench (I broke my 3/8 trying to break the crankshaft pulley bolt loose) and 22mm sockets (had to buy new; much larger than anything I had in my existing set).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locking pliers (aka vise grips) for removing a damaged dowel pin/straight pin (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9611/what-to-do-with-damaged-alignment-dowels-in-block/9626&quot;&gt;What to do with damaged alignment dowels in block?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feeler gauges - breaking loose the head bolts made the exhaust valve lifters (I think that's what they're called) drop out of the heads, and I lost track of which one goes on which valve, so now I need to play with swapping them around until the clearances are right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C clamp, needed for compressing the timing belt tensioner; without this it's impossible to get the timing belt back on (or, in my case, install a new one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would have been nice, but I didn't have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special cam sprocket tool (basically a huge near-flat hex wrench with a big opening in it, possibly Subaru-specific).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat ratcheting wrenches, mainly for the valve cover bolts (one is almost impossible to access).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extended/angled hose clamp pliers, for some hard-to-reach hoses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple 17mm non-ratcheting wrenches, for holding cam sprockets while getting the timing belt in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque wrench that goes up to 130 ft-lbs (for the crankshaft pulley); I'll either just do it to 80 ft-lbs with my torque wrench then turn it another 30-45 degrees or so, or borrow one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T02:56:23.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23961" CreationDate="2014-05-01T06:10:16.987" Score="5" ViewCount="9148" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a BigBoy DRT-250, a cheap Chinese import, normal manual gearbox motorbike, not scooter, which probably already partially answers the question, but at 10,000km I have had no prior mechanical problems. It's been serviced by the dealer at 500km, 3,000km, and 6,000km, and should be due for one now, at roughly 9,600km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start it, in neutral, and kick down to first, I can feel the gear taking, with a small nudge forward, but as soon as I pull off, it's as if I was still in neutral. I have to first push the bike around (down as many hills as I can find) while in 1st, then it improves a little, and I can ride around in first, but very slowly, even at high revs. After about fifteen minutes of this, I can start really revving the engine very high, and feel the clutch start taking. A few of those and I can get back up all the hills I've gone down, and ride almost normally. Sometimes while riding at a steady speed, in any gear, the clutch will slip for a second or so then normal riding resumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it difficult to believe normal wear will do a clutch it at only 10,000km; I've loosened the cable totally, so there is plenty play on the gearbox lever when the clutch is released, and I have only used the oil recommended by the dealer, Motul 20W50 mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T13:11:29.013" Title="Why is my motorbike's clutch slipping?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9564" CreationDate="2014-05-01T08:16:30.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok for the benefit of the question I will answer this.&#xA;After much mucking around for quite a bit it seemed both the rear and front shocks had to be replaced, when they did the first test they just replaced the front then put the old ones back in, then swapped out the rear. They decided to swap the front again while the new rear ones were in and the ride went back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4918" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T08:16:30.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T03:12:22.833" Score="7" ViewCount="4313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just swapped my aftermarket winter alloy wheels&amp;amp;tires, for original summer wheels &amp;amp; tires. The steering wheel feels wobbly after I did that. I read this thread here on mechanic exchange  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2273/wobbly-steering-wheel-after-changing-rims-tires&quot;&gt;Wobbly Steering-wheel after changing Rims/Tires?&lt;/a&gt; , which is exactly what I am experiencing. However, before taking off the wheel again, I wanted to check if this appears to be a spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Past fall, when I put on these after-market wheels &amp;amp; tires, a shop put them on, so I'm not sure if they had put on spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took 2 photos. One is slightly farther out, so you see the wheel a bit, with rusty break pad in the background. The second one is a close up which shows the little 'crack' which I assume could be the spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrdCq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgZoY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sasha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right  and Paul; that was not a spacer. I took the wheel off and this is what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to have a rubber or plastic adapter on that I cannot identify. Looking on the web, this is how the hub-centricadapter should look when not installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iwjBt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keithbloom.com/passat_world/images/hr_spacers/rings_closeup.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I squished it with the regular rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the black ring is on the rotor, it is not coming off easily. What do you think that is and could it be preventing regular rim to come up close to the rotor, therefore creating the wobbly steering wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can anyone tell me if the black rubber / plastic part on the rotor the hubcentric adapter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrdCq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4982" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T16:04:25.513" Title="Is this a wheel spacer?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2014-05-02T08:11:32.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a side note: It might make sense to replace the brake line as well. I am not sure what you mean by &quot;twisting&quot; the brake line (as a 180 or even 360 degree twist of the line, while not ideal for safe driving, should not lead to brakes failing. I therefore assume that you have severely bent or folded the line on itself), so there is a real chance of some permanent damage there as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned by mikes, depending on how long and at which temperatures the wheel bearing has been operating, it might have been damaged. Modern wheel bearings often last as long as the entire vehicle, but should yours fail replacing it is a nice (advanced) DIY project. YouTube's famous EricTheCarGuy actually has a step-by-step guide for wheel bearing replacement of your Honda! &#xA;A damaged bearing will usually identify itself with a loud squeal/rumbling noise that increases with speed, but it might take quite some time before it will become apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For making a noobie mistake, I think we have all been there. The most important part is that you went for a testdrive and checked your own work. The practical skills that will prevent these mistakes in the future can always be learned, most important is the critical thinking and reflection on you own work. When given the choice between a self-critical inexperienced mechanic or an arrogant experienced one, I would always put my money on the first. Mistakes are made by everyone, but only a critical attitude and independent thinking can prevent further damage or harm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4983" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T08:11:32.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9612" CreationDate="2014-05-02T09:59:33.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, full service. I was in the same position as you, Donna, very recently. There was a full service history, but it wasn't itemised - so I had no idea what was actually done apart from giving an educated guess based on bills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I went for a full service - oil, oil filter, air filter, sparks, gearbox oil, brake fluid, pads and rotors (they were horribly rusted, so consider this an extra in my case). Ask the dealer for the price of the parts, as you might be able to buy aftermarket parts cheaper online and provide them to the mechanic - I did that with my oil filter, air filter, pads, and sparks. This is, of course, assuming that the mechanic will accept parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T09:59:33.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2014-05-02T10:30:50.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from your pictures, but I don't believe there is a spacer there. In the second picture, what you are showing appears to be the &quot;hat&quot; of the disk brake. Also, from the sound of it, the other link you posted is talking about a centering ring. That ring would not be visible while the wheel is attached. I believe the only way you are going to be able to tell if there are hub spacers is to take a wheel back off, but this surely could be your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T10:30:50.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9656" CreationDate="2014-05-02T15:10:06.887" Score="1" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I use surplus landscaping bricks as bump-stops in our garage.  They are maybe 1.5&quot; thick and 12&quot; wide, and are used as stop indicators at a creeping pace only.  The tire is from a 2013 Veloster, with 13k miles, so it's still fairly new.  We will be replacing the tire, but I'm wondering if we should replace the bricks, or if this damage was likely from a pothole at speed instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xi0xB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire bubble&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T12:38:00.937" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T12:38:00.937" Title="Is this kind of tire damage from a landscaping brick?" Tags="|tires|damage|parking|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9655" CreationDate="2014-05-02T15:39:27.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using bricks as you describe will not cause this type of tire damage/issues. It seems to me you have a defective tire or you hit something while car was traveling at speed (I doubt this though, as you'd probably see damage to the wheel as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, using the bricks as bump stops in the garage is a pretty good idea, in my book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T15:39:27.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9658" CreationDate="2014-05-02T16:49:01.997" Score="6" ViewCount="7423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on developing an automatic bicycle (mostly microcontroller based) and I'd presume I'd be shifting in a similar way to a car. So my question is, what factors does the transmission take into consideration when shifting? I know when I drive my car, it tries to shift at a constant engine rpm, but when I accelerate fast, say when entering the highway on a short entrance ramp, the tranny doesn't exactly keep up with the engine rmp, which may be at 5 or 60000 rpm before shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it concerned more with speed, rpm, some other factors,or all of them? Which ones take precedence in its decision to shift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for instance, my main concern is riding the bike downhill. Now if you're riding a regular bike like me, you would stop pedaling and let gravity do the work for you. Does an automatic transmission do this as well or does it shift up to match the speed or down to match the low rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4422" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:00:22.557" Title="What determines when an automatic transmission shifts?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|rpm|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9657" CreationDate="2014-05-02T17:41:17.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm working on developing an automatic bicycle (mostly microcontroller&#xA;  based) and I'd presume I'd be shifting in a similar way to a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, you're in for a shock: it's going to be pretty different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So my question is, what factors does the transmission take into&#xA;  consideration when shifting?&#xA;  ...&#xA;  So is it concerned more with speed, rpm, some other factors,or all of&#xA;  them? Which ones take precedence in its decision to shift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends.  The ruleset is going to be situation dependent and somewhat non-deterministic (also known as using &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2794/57&quot;&gt;fuzzy logic&lt;/a&gt;).  A car ruleset is also going to be very different from one that you'd use on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of the conflicting priorities that you face in a car's automatic transmission:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel economy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle response (is there a shifting delay between stomping on the gas and feeling the go?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel economy (what, again?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Annoyance (oscillating shifting is annoying: e.g., 3-4-3-4-3-4).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel economy (yes, yes, we get it!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point being, the transmission is trying to optimize a bunch of conflicting metrics looking for a local maxima.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So for instance, my main concern is riding the bike downhill. Now if&#xA;  you're riding a regular bike like me, you would stop pedaling and let&#xA;  gravity do the work for you. Does an automatic transmission do this as&#xA;  well or does it shift up to match the speed or down to match the low&#xA;  rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bicycle, you have a complete different set of problems.  For example, I like to pedal at a fixed pace and I'll fiddle with the gears regularly to match my road speed to my pedaling pace.  Your automatic transmission would need to gear up and down according to road speed.  It would also need to anticipate the upcoming hill - I do, since I can see the slope and gear down.  Waiting until my pace slows down will be annoying.  It would be better to detect the situation (e.g., using a level or GPS data).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a downhill slope, I gear up so that I can build up momentum.  I also like knowing that I'm in the right gear for my road speed even if I'm coasting for a bit: I don't like the overspeed situation where I can end up running over my own foot!  In an automobile transmission, the engine almost decouples in a coasting situation (even though the engine is still &quot;pedaling&quot;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, an automatic bicycle transmission can't oscillate between gears.  In a car, it's annoying to hear the engine jump from 2000 RPMS to 3000 RPMS and back.  On a bicycle, where there's a distinct shock to the system with every shift, the rider would quickly take a hammer to the transmission if it were switching every second or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T17:41:17.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T18:17:45.110" Score="6" ViewCount="13101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the engine on my 2003 Ford Focus (&lt;strong&gt;French&lt;/strong&gt; TDCi) and I plugged it to clear the error codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it starts ok but stops after 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that when a new injection pump is installed, you actually have 600 seconds to re-program it, or the car stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the procedure is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific code to find on the pump? If so, where is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4984" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T11:22:32.217" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T11:22:32.217" Title="Re-programming injection pump on French Ford Focus TDCi" Tags="|ford|diesel|focus|fuel-injection|tdci|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9657" CreationDate="2014-05-02T20:46:27.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the @bobcross answer is pretty good, but wanted to add some more information which I believe is pertinent to the question, yet does not negate what Bob has written:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked about the logic behind how an automatic transmission shifts and why it shifts when it does. To answer part of this, we need to look at what actually controls the transmission. This unit (in newer automatic vehicles) is called the transmission control unit (TCU -- obviously, lol). It is a unit separate from the engine control unit (ECU), but does work in conjunction with it. The inputs used for it to &amp;quot;decide&amp;quot; when to shift are as follows (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_control_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)&lt;/strong&gt; - This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current speed of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel speed sensor (WSS)&lt;/strong&gt; - Modern automatic transmissions also have a wheel speed sensor input to determine the true speed of the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle is going downhill or uphill and also adapt gear changes according to road speeds, and also whether to decouple the torque converter at a standstill to improve fuel consumption and reduce load on running gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle position sensor (TPS)&lt;/strong&gt; - The TPS sensor along with the vehicle speed sensor are the two main inputs for most TCUs. Older transmissions use this to determine engine load, with the introduction of drive-by-wire technology, this is often a shared input between the ECU and TCU. The input is used to determine the optimum time and characteristics for a gear change according to load on the engine. The rate of change is used to determine whether a downshift is appropriate for overtaking, for example, the value of the TPS is also continually monitored during the journey and shift programmes are changed accordingly (economy, sport mode, etc.). The TCU can also reference this information with the vehicle speed sensor to determine vehicle acceleration and compare this with a nominal value; if the actual value is much higher or lower (such as driving uphill or towing a trailer) the transmission will change its gearshift patterns to suit the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turbine speed sensor (TSS)&lt;/strong&gt; - This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current rotational speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The TCU uses the input shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches. This information is vital to regulate the application of the torque converter lock-up clutch smoothly and effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kick down switch&lt;/strong&gt; - One of the most common inputs into a TCU is the kick down switch which is used to determine if the accelerator pedal has been depressed past full throttle.[3] When activated the transmission downshifts into the lowest permissible gear based on current road speed to use the full power reserves of the engine. This is still present in most transmissions though is no longer as necessary to use as the TCU uses the throttle position sensor and rapid rate of change to determine whether a downshift may be necessary, thus there is no need to use the kickdown feature in most circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake light switch&lt;/strong&gt; - In more modern TCUs this input is used to determine whether to downshift the transmission to increase engine braking effect if the transmission detects that the vehicle is going downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traction Control System (TCS)&lt;/strong&gt; - Many TCUs now have an input from the vehicles traction control system. If the TCS detects unfavorable road conditions, a signal is sent to the TCU. The TCU can modify shift programs by upshifting early, eliminating the torque converter lock-up clutch application, and also eliminating the first gear totally and pulling off in 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TCU uses these inputs, cross references them against tables within its memory stores, and decides which gear it should be in. As it states in the Wiki article, modern TCUs are so complex in their design and make calculations based on so many parameters that there are an indefinite amount of possible shift behaviors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T20:46:27.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:00:01.530" Score="6" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second hand car (Porsche Cayman S) and I was looking at the disk rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do you think that it's time to replace the front disk rotors of my car?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0IWzY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I3jxx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VWZW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiIOF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4985" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:36:23.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:36:23.753" Title="Disk rotors wear" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|porsche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9668" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:40:21.560" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am installing a phone kit in a Toyota Avensis '02. I am trying to get a cable through the firewall to the battery and I'm having difficulty. I saw someone on YouTube getting power from under the dash but I thought this was a bad idea, as you'd not know what fusing was on that particular line and might overload that fuse and maybe blow something important. Am I right and should I take power directly from the battery? Or is there some way to get power from under the dash safely? If not, has anyone any tips for getting a wire through the firewall/bulkhead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3152" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T01:38:23.347" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:36:29.350" Title="Getting power to phone kit by running a cable through the firewall" Tags="|electrical|toyota|avensis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2014-05-03T20:19:30.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the rotor shows obvious signs of damage there is no way to tell by a photo. The only way to be sure is to measure the rotor with a micrometer. The most accurate method is with a micrometer specifically designed to measure rotors. The contact areas of the micrometer are pointed, this allows measurement at the base of any grooves. After the smallest measurement is recorded it has to be compared with the manufacturers minimum thickness specification for your particular vehicle. It can then be determined if the rotor can be machined, often referred  to as &quot;turning the rotors&quot;. With the abundance of cheap imported rotors, in many cases replacement is a better option than resurfacing. My experience has been that the rotors turned to near their minimum warp quickly and end needing to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T20:19:30.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2014-05-03T22:45:44.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part I have circled is exactly that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gdkq3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to pop that off of your hub and standard or OEM wheels should fit on without issue. You should be able to slide a blade in behind it to pull it away from the hub ... if not, you may need to forcibly take it off and get replacements. If they are made out of plastic or nylon, they should be pretty cheap and easy to get from your aftermarket wheel distributor, but check with them before you make any plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T22:45:44.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2014-05-04T00:28:51.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all probability it is the TPS. They have been reported to have a nasty habit of malfunctioning when the battery is jumped. Particularly in the 2000 Dodge Ram for some reason. Not sure why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T00:28:51.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9664" CreationDate="2014-05-04T12:35:13.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can draw power from the fuse box by using a blade which looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52Y50.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adapter fits on the blade of an existing fuse. The left side is the part that the fuse fits into. The right side of this is used as a blade for the connection. The only thing you need to remember is this adapter needs to go on the POWER side of the fuse, so you are not using the fuse for the link, and then put an inline fuse before the power gets to your device. An inline fuse can look like this, but there are many variations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTTyV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on your vehicle, there may be other power sources at the fuse block which do nothing but provide power. You can pull power from these directly without fear of disrupting other power needs, just remember your inline fuse to protect the equipment you are trying to power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; As for getting power through the firewall, in most vehicles there are already wires running through the firewall (I say &quot;most ... more likely &quot;all&quot;, but don't want to be all inclusive). You need to find where they are located at and utilize what is there. You can usually poke the wire through the middle of a group of wires, if there is a rubber grommet which is used to seal the hole in the firewall. I still believe utilizing the fuse block to grab your power is by far the best/easiest option here. IMHO, running spare wires to the battery not only clutters the engine bay and looks ugly, but this usually leads to problems later on with shorting wires, etc., causing hard to trace issues. The only time I would run power directly from the battery is when I have something with a high amperage draw, like a stereo amplifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T17:39:09.487" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T17:39:09.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11881" CreationDate="2014-05-04T15:01:29.683" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pontiac G6, and the factory CD player stopped working. My sister bought a JVC system with a kit and adapter. When she installed it, the audio was quiet. Everything seemed to be wired correctly. What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="4990" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T12:26:28.150" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T12:26:28.150" Title="New radio plays quiet" Tags="|pontiac|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2014-05-04T17:30:58.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes It looks like dynamic groan.  This can be solved by chamfering top or side of the disc pad. Rotor surface micro undulation  may cause this. Grind the discu surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4993" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T17:30:58.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-04T20:19:45.730" Score="4" ViewCount="2476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some plastic pieces of my car are a bit peeled off and the black plastic behind is shown. Do you know any successful technique to repair them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original paint is a matte finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see pictures here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jadnP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnyHY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZ7Aw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XpgEl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some pretty nice 3M foil but it's not available in that particular color... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4985" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T10:22:55.377" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T02:50:13.327" Title="Interior plastics peeling repair" Tags="|interior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2014-05-05T01:37:16.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure wash to remove loose clear coat, brush on clear urethane varnish to seal the edges and replace the clear. I have done this on the cap on my pickup, and where edges are coming loose on our Taurus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4997" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T10:24:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T10:24:50.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-05T12:59:42.273" Score="3" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;While fully opening the glove box on my Avensis '02 (to get behind it for a job) I broke something. I did a bit of research and I can't be sure but it might be the glove compartment damper, which if it is I assume is not that important (to me anyway). I don't know for sure though. I was hoping if I described it maybe someone would confirm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cylindrical and about the size of a fat pen and is screwed to the back of the glove box and then attached to the chassis with something like a string ... this string was very short and broke when the glove box opened fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know for sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's only to dampen the glove box (using weighting I'm assuming) then what is the purpose of the string?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo ... you can see the broken &quot;string&quot; in the background. PS although it looks in the photo like it's connected to the hinge it isn't actually touching it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ad3xo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3152" LastEditorUserId="3152" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T16:00:02.270" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:38:08.473" Title="Is this part the glove box damper?" Tags="|toyota|part-identification|avensis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23340" CreationDate="2014-05-05T13:08:24.040" Score="2" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Opel Frontera 1999 2.2 Diesel. It refused to turn over a couple of years ago and it's taken me this long to get to doing anything about it. I was advised that it was something wrong with the key/immobiliser so the garage replaced it with a secondhand system consisting of ECU, Immobiliser, Ignition, Key, Key card reader ( i think it was called) and RCL controller ( not sure if that one was used or not in the end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage (who I trust and I also think they are very competent) said that they tried everything but couldn't get the jeep to turn over. The main problem was they couldn't do any troubleshooting because they couldn't get the diagnostics unit to connect with either ECU - ie the old one or the new one. The suspicion was that there was some issue with the wiring loom. Does this sound plausible? It does to me I suppose especially because the problem was originally intermittent and it ultimately took a few months to break completely. If it does then I think I will elect to scrap the car because it just seems like it might not be the end of the line with the repairs, but I just wanted to ask here in case there might be something else obvious that we were missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T08:09:16.960" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T08:09:16.960" Title="Opel Frontera Electrical Problem - can't access diagnostics" Tags="|electrical|vauxhall|immobilizer|opel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-05T14:51:23.417" Score="10" ViewCount="62263" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alternator in my '04 Lumina SS is its Achilles' heel. It lasts a few years before it starts to overcharge the battery, after which the only practical remedy is to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I cannot be sure of the cause for this, I have always noticed that a tremendous amount of caked-on dirt and dust accumulate in the windings over time. In order to extend the life of the alternator I would like to clean it out as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind taking the alternator out of the engine bay to do this. I'm a little nervous about disassembling it though since I tried it once upon a time and ended up damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously water and alternators don't really mix well. One idea that springs to mind is to hit it with brake cleaner, though I'm concerned that doing so may compromise the in-built voltage regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What options do I have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What precautions should I take?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And are there any recommendations or tried-and-tested methods that I should follow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T16:55:20.187" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T20:11:18.903" Title="How can I clean the dirt build-up in my alternator?" Tags="|alternator|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9659" CreationDate="2014-05-05T16:35:39.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions I found from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodiagnos.com/sites/default/files/ford_injector_programming_tdci_ad.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;. It looks as though you have to program the pump and injectors into the PCU using some type interfacing tool. I would bet this is probably only available through the dealer, though I could be wrong. Check with a local shop, but would bet this is not something you can do at home. The document has several pictures as to where to find the codes for both the pump and the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Injector Programming (TDCi Engines)&#xA;  This function is required by service centres when an Injector needs to be replaced, or&#xA;  there is a driveability problem.&#xA;  For 1.8 TDCi and 2.0 TDCi engines the each injector has a 16-digit calibration code&#xA;  stamped on the body.&#xA;  For 1.6 TDCi engines the each injector has an 8-digit calibration code stamped on the&#xA;  body.&#xA;  These codes relate to the electrical and structural characteristics of each injector,&#xA;  which are defined during production. The PCM must know the calibration codes for&#xA;  each injector in order to treat and operate the injectors in the correct manner. This&#xA;  helps to reduce emissions and improve performance. The code must be programmed&#xA;  in by communicating and downloading the code into the PCMs memory.&#xA;  There are three common situations which demand this function.&#xA;  1. After Injector replacement.&#xA;  2. Fuel injection system ‘calibration’.&#xA;  3. To cure drivability problems. Lack of power, black smoke and the presence of&#xA;  DTC’s P2336, P2337, P2338 can often be fixed by re-entering the existing 4&#xA;  injector codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE:&#xA;  • On earlier model years (approx pre-2003) it is not possible to read the actual&#xA;  injector codes. On these vehicles you will see ’00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00’ or ‘FF FF&#xA;  FF FF FF FF FF FF’ or a mixture.&#xA;  • After entering an injector code the fuel system will initially run without any pilot&#xA;  injection sequence. The car must be driven for a few miles to correct this.&#xA;  The codes of the ORIGINAL injectors fitted to vehicle can be found on a label, which&#xA;  is fitted to the side of the engine or on the engine rocker top (if it has not yet been&#xA;  removed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The codes on the label are in the following format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(1&amp;amp;2) X1111111122222222X &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(3&amp;amp;4) X3333333344444444X&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where:&#xA;  11111111 is the code for injector 1,&#xA;  22222222 is the code for injector 2,&#xA;  33333333 is the code for injector 3,&#xA;  44444444 is the code for injector 4.&#xA;  NOTE: The injectors are in the physical order, NOT firing order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Injector Programming (TDCi Engines)&#xA;  This function is required by service centres when an Injector needs to be replaced, or&#xA;  there is a driveability problem.&#xA;  For 1.8 TDCi and 2.0 TDCi engines the each injector has a 16-digit calibration code&#xA;  stamped on the body.&#xA;  For 1.6 TDCi engines the each injector has an 8-digit calibration code stamped on the&#xA;  body.&#xA;  These codes relate to the electrical and structural characteristics of each injector,&#xA;  which are defined during production. The PCM must know the calibration codes for&#xA;  each injector in order to treat and operate the injectors in the correct manner. This&#xA;  helps to reduce emissions and improve performance. The code must be programmed&#xA;  in by communicating and downloading the code into the PCMs memory.&#xA;  There are three common situations which demand this function.&#xA;  1. After Injector replacement.&#xA;  2. Fuel injection system ‘calibration’.&#xA;  3. To cure drivability problems. Lack of power, black smoke and the presence of&#xA;  DTC’s P2336, P2337, P2338 can often be fixed by re-entering the existing 4&#xA;  injector codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: The injectors on the label are in firing order, NOT physical order. The top left&#xA;  code is Injector 1 (Cyl.1), the top right code is Injector 2 (Cyl.3), the bottom left is&#xA;  Injector 3 (Cyl.4) and the bottom right is Injector 4 (Cyl.2). Where Injector is the firing&#xA;  number, Cylinder is the physical number.&#xA;  When replacing an Injector the code stamped on the body of the new Injector must&#xA;  be programmed into the PCM, NOT the code on the label.&#xA;  WARNING: Before attempting Injector Programming it is necessary for the&#xA;  vehicle to be left stationary with the Engine off for at least 8 hours. This is to&#xA;  ensure that the engine is stone cold before Injector Programming is performed.&#xA;  Failure to follow these instructions may result in failure of the Injector&#xA;  Programming function and/or drivability problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talkford.com/topic/149745-fuel-pump-question/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The TDCI pump doesn't need coded as it is mechanical. I had mines changed a month ago and it wasn't coded in to the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nope no code for pump on TDCI only injectors &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm thinking this is not your problem. It could be that the &quot;600 second time limit&quot; is for re-coding the injectors into the system after the pump replacement, but not sure. Also, check the PCM for codes, as there are several mentioned above which will go away when the injectors are recoded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T21:47:26.030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T21:47:26.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2014-05-05T19:13:22.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given how fragile the MAF is in those vehicles, that'd be the first thing I'd check.  I've heard similar stories many a time and a sizeable percentage came back to ultimately be the Mass Air Flow sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T19:13:22.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2014-05-05T20:31:23.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be to find out why the alternators are failing. Make sure you have good connections at the battery, the alternator and any ground cables. If you frequently let the battery run low with a power robbing device like a large stereo, power inverter and such you may be overworking the alternator recharging the battery. Another possibility is that the alternators you are getting are poor quality. Are they reconditioned (only the broken parts are replaced) rebuilt ( the broken parts along with any wear items are replaced) or remanufactured ( anything that is worn or could wear is replaced). If you decide to clean it I would use nothing but compressed air. Any solvent or water sprayed in the alternator has a chance of getting into the bearings ruining them. I would blow some air in from both sides. Be prepared for some really nasty dust from the brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T20:31:23.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9664" CreationDate="2014-05-06T13:36:29.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get power from under the dash safely, you first need to identify what each wire does - Most workshop manuals will have a wiring diagram in the back that will have a colour code listed for each wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For aftermarket accessories like that, the best feed to use is usually the one powering the cigar lighter socket. This is usually ignition-switched, so it will go off when you turn off the engine (except, for some reason, in French cars...). I've not come across the little gizmo Paulster2 shows above, but that looks like quite a useful method, providing there is room to use it safely. If I were using one I'd want to insulate the middle part of the bar though, in case anything came adrift and shorted... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paul says, be sure to use a suitably-rated fuse in the feed you add, and to use a suitable earthing point. Don't do what one of the previous owners of my current car did, which was to shove a 3-way lighter-socket adapter up behind the dash with their phone and satnav chargers taped into it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:36:29.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9688" CreationDate="2014-05-06T15:34:20.253" Score="5" ViewCount="9235" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my tires leaks from 32 psi to down below 25 psi in less than a day and it's not due to a drastic temperature change.  I took the wheel off to inspect for nails/screws and couldn't find any.  The only things that come to mind are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An existing plug I put in some time ago (after I did have a screw) and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bead that goes against the rim could have weakened because I used a deadblow hammer to bang the wheel off the rotor as it was stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be something else?  How likely is a plug, that worked well for over a year, to go loose and start leaking?  Should I take it to a shop to get it re-beaded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T16:16:36.640" Title="Where can a tire be leaking if no nail/screw?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9687" CreationDate="2014-05-06T15:41:29.343" Score="11" ViewCount="210258" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a really classic and common old car problem. I see it &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt; but this is the first time it's started happening to my own car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when I first turn the car on, there's instantly a pretty horrific squealing that sounds belt-related, and develops to an even higher pitch as I pull out of my parking spot before cutting off as I straighten out and drive away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thereafter, there's just a slight squeak you can hear in the engine when it idles or I'm traveling at a low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue? I drive a 97 Subaru Legacy. The main belts are brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T14:51:53.023" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T13:45:09.763" Title="Horrific squealing when car is first turned on?" Tags="|noise|subaru|belt|legacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9689" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:31:21.590" Score="1" ViewCount="2339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mazda 3 (2.0L). Recently, I took apart the front axle in order to replace the half-shaft on the driver's side. At the same time, I have replaced my brake caliper because I realized (coincidentally) that the caliper piston was stuck on that side, causing the brake pad to be constantly in contact with the rotor. Of course, this created a large amount of heat, and I've noticed that my ABS speed sensor harness is a little melted now (presumably from the heat) - see image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJGtN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;melted abs speed sensor - driver&amp;#39;s side front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have five questions about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Since my ABS light isn't on on my dash, can I safely assume that it's fine as-is, or is this something that will likely come back to bite me later on?&#xA;2) Is there a way to test my anti-lock brakes? It's summertime here, so I can't just go out to a parking lot and slam on my brakes to see if they engage, as I would in the winter when there is ice around. &#xA;3) Since the housing is melted around the screw, how can I remove it if I wanted to replace the sensor?&#xA;4) How difficult is it to replace? (It looks like I have to take off a few other components to get at the cable as it runs up underneath the vehicle... Can I just cut the wires and re-connect new ones to a new harness with heat-shrink tubing?)&#xA;5) It is possible that the inner housing of the sensor is also melted (the socket into which the harness mounts). If so, how do I replace this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2003" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T18:03:01.923" Title="ABS break sensor melted in mazda 3" Tags="|sensor|drivetrain|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9685" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:41:18.040" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2&quot; inch of deflection. If there is more than this, it's too loose. Here is a picture of where you should tighten it at (I believe this should look like your engine and belt setup):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtKnJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tighten, loosen the two bolts, circled in red, then turn the yellow circled bolt clockwise to tighten the belt. Don't forget to tighten the two red circled bolts after you tighten the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, after you tighten it up it is still squeaking some, get some belt dressing for it. Belt dressing is a spray on treatment you put on the rib side of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T16:41:18.040" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:49:24.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a leak from around your bead if there is corrosion on the rim. I've had this happen to me a couple of times. You can also have leakage at the valve stem in the Schreader portion (core) or around the valve stem where it attaches to the rim (less likely if there are tire pressure sensors, but still possible). If installed correctly, I've never had a plug start leaking after installation. The only way I can think of it not being installed correctly is if it was not cut down level with the surface of the tire and it was pulled out, but that would make itself evident at the outset right after installation and running the car down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a large tub which will the tire will fit into, fill it with water and find the leak yourself. With it leaking as much as you are saying, you find it fairly easily. Just don't do it in your bathroom tub as this may torque off your better half. If you don't have this availability, you can take it to a shop and they will be able to find the issue for you using the same method I just described. Having them fix it for you is usually fairly inexpensive as long as it does not involve replacing the whole tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T16:49:24.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9686" CreationDate="2014-05-06T17:05:44.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Since my ABS light isn't on on my dash, can I safely assume that it's fine as-is, or is this something that will likely come back to bite me later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. If the sensor was not picking up the signal, you won't see it at first (after the self diagnostics are done, that is). Once you start driving, the computer will notice the differential and then turn the light on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Is there a way to test my anti-lock brakes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still put it into a parking lot and dynamite the brakes. Just be careful when you do it to ensure you are not going to bother anyone. You should feel feedback through the pedal. I don't think this is an issue ... see answer #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Since the housing is melted around the screw, how can I remove it if I wanted to replace the sensor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any type of grinding device or even a knife to whittle away at the plastic will allow you to get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) How difficult is it to replace? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the plastic removed from around the mounting bolt, it shouldn't be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hard to get it out. You may need to get a pair of Vice-Grips to get at it, but it shouldn't be too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5) It is possible that the inner housing of the sensor is also melted (the socket into which the harness mounts). If so, how do I replace this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it should look like when not melted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xc2GI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABS Sensor from Rock Auto&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undo the bolt holding into place and pull the old sensor out. Stuff the new sensor back into place. You'll need to snip the wires and get a new sensor lead. Looking online, I'm not seeing the plug itself for sale. You'd probably have to go to a junk yard or find someone who is parting out a car (one which has been in an accident or whatever) and clip a good used one off of their vehicle. You may be able to find one at your local Mazda parts department, though. And yes, your suggestion of shrink wrap is a good one, but do solder them together first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T18:03:01.923" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T18:03:01.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9702" CreationDate="2014-05-06T18:07:24.847" Score="7" ViewCount="3816" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2005 Mini Cooper. The bolts that hold the exhaust mounts in place have rusted and snapped on both sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MU104.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUJmK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken up the floor of the boot and have located their heads on either side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3b5l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I took it to a garage for repair are they likely to just grind the rusted heads off and tac some new fixings to the underside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth me even attempting to drill these out myself and put in new bolts for the rubber mounts? or is this a relatively common job that most garages could fix in 30 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4775" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T10:51:33.110" Title="Options for replacing rusted exhaust mounting bolts" Tags="|exhaust|rust|stuck-bolt|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-06T19:29:31.290" Score="3" ViewCount="2081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford F-150 pickup with a gasoline engine.  There is a thin metal flap on a spring that is supposed to cover the opening in the fuel filler neck, which the fuel nozzle would normally push out of the way for fueling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was ineptly trying to add fuel from a poorly designed fuel can, this flap got bent and no longer covers the opening completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct name of this flap?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is its purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it a problem that it is bent?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is a problem, what is involved in fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I've described the part clearly.  If not, I can try to add a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T00:33:56.510" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T10:50:08.383" Title="Bent flap inside fuel filler" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9704" CreationDate="2014-05-06T22:10:34.667" Score="6" ViewCount="39309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I´m having this problem with a 2008 Ford Mondeo mk4 with a 2.0 TDci engine code AZBA, same one Peugeot uses in other cars such as the 407.&#xA;Car was having trouble a few days back to start whenever it reached normal operating temperature and it was stopped. It took like 10 seconds cranking to get it started. So I started plugging in my OBD scanner which throw me a p0087 error, low pressure on rail. It wasn't present, so I deleted it and performed an adaptation reseting all systems. Furthermore, I found out that three of the injectors were leaking like crazy, so I proceed to check it closely enough to find out they were losen, so I tighten them a little bit more.&#xA;The issue kind of disappeared for a few days, but now I´m having the same problem again, only I have not leakage and fault p0087 is now present, oh, and it doesn't start at all, doesn't matter if it´s cold or hot. &#xA;So I decided to test bypassing the whole low pressure system and putting it some diesel directly into the common rail high pressure pump, and yes, it started right away.&#xA;Now I´m thinking but I´m not sure and that´s where I need help, that probably some kind of lift pump is broken, and if so where is it located, cause I haven't been able to find it close to the tank. Could it be that this lift pump is integrated with the high pressure pump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T00:41:26.873" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T13:56:18.747" Title="2008 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI cranks but won´t start" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|starting|tdci|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9695" CreationDate="2014-05-07T03:23:30.503" Score="4" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 1963 Chevy Impala. I am rebuilding the drum brakes, but I can't seem to find all the parts-- some have gone missing over the years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere to find all the internals in one kit, or do I have to piece together the self adjusters and all the other various hardware from other models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, are there other Chevy cars from the era that have identical brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to be more clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need just a spring kit, I'm looking for the brake strut, the adjusters, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the struts and parking brake lever are no longer made. So I had to scour some sources for them. Oddly enough I did find the self-adjuster kits in the local store, as OEM aftermarket parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5009" LastEditorUserId="5009" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T23:07:30.227" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T23:07:30.227" Title="Finding brake parts" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9694" CreationDate="2014-05-07T10:40:59.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is an &quot;all-in-one&quot; or &quot;combo&quot; brake drum hardware kit. You can pick these up from most of the major parts stores. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2429476&amp;amp;cc=1324505&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example from RockAuto.com&lt;/a&gt; with it's corresponding picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QtykR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake Hardware from RockAuto&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be enough for one axle. I'm not sure if front/back are the same, but I believe so. You can get the other bits and pieces (ie: self adjuster) from RockAuto.com as well, but would imagine you can pick them up from your major parts stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Impala was built on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_B_platform&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GM &quot;B&quot; platform&lt;/a&gt;, which is a full-sized, rear wheel drive auto. Cars such as the Buick Wildcat, Oldsmobile Dynamic 88, and Pontiac Bonneville &amp;amp; Catalina models were based off the same platform. GM is renowned for cross breeding its fleet. I don't know exactly what years it spans, but would bet you will find the same exact brake drum kit covering several years. I will tell you it looks &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; familiar to me, as common to GM vehicles which I have worked on in the past. As for the Impala, it looks as though these same parts were used between 1959-1970. Why change it if it works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T11:28:01.923" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T11:28:01.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9691" CreationDate="2014-05-07T10:50:08.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flap is called a &quot;rollover valve&quot;. It is there to help prevent fuel from escaping in the event of a rollover. It also has the added benefit of helping to prevent fuel from being syphoned from your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the CEL / MIL / idiot light comes on, just leave it as it is. A number of cars do not have this flap, and work perfectly fine without it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T10:50:08.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9703" CreationDate="2014-05-07T15:31:04.577" Score="8" ViewCount="6684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to check out the engine on my 97 Subaru Legacy and the hood latch is stuck. Now this one of those cars that has a double latch, I don't know if it's like that on all Subarus or not, but once I pull the little lever in the car that releases the first one, then I have to go out and stick my fingers into the opening and manually unlatch the second one....the second one is the one that no longer unlatches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How on earth do you fix something inside a sealed box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T20:14:20.717" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T14:15:07.323" Title="1997 Subaru Legacy - Hood won't open" Tags="|subaru|hood|legacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9746" CreationDate="2014-05-07T16:05:03.363" Score="6" ViewCount="22001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving normally (no problems, everything going smoothly; never had felt any problems with the clutch, was catching on well etc.) and &lt;strong&gt;all of a sudden&lt;/strong&gt;, with no warning sign or anything (no shock, no bang, nothing), the &lt;strong&gt;clutch pedal doesn't go far enough anymore&lt;/strong&gt; to engage the gears in a normal way. I was still driving and it still worked more or less (but it was bumpy changing gears, as one would expect, and not very healthy for the car, I think), so I stopped at a place where it was safe to do so. It goes about 3/4 of the way, then there's a lot of resistance and I can't push it any further -- it's not just hard to push further, it's impossible (unless I would put so much force on it that it would break or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't want to drive it like this (can't engage the gears unless I would put too much force on it, which I don't want to do), so I left the car at the safe spot and asked someone to come pick us up and we'll have it towed tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it might possibly be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a BMW 320D E46 built in 2001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: the clutch pedal works again -- I don't know how this is possible, but it's still not going smoothly, so it was certainly more than just an obstruction of the clutch pedal. When I shift and slowly release the clutch while pressing in the gas, it's supposed to be smooth, now it's bumpy. It's technically speaking drivable, but it's everything but a smooth ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:28:41.353" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T01:15:24.290" Title="Clutch pedal suddenly doesn't go deep enough to engage gears" Tags="|clutch|bmw|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9690" CreationDate="2014-05-07T19:34:53.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution was to simply drill out the old bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3mXE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1qyZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4775" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T19:34:53.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9698" CreationDate="2014-05-07T20:57:01.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the second latch just needs to be lubed. Of course, you need to get the hood open in order to do that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the shape of your front grille, though, you may be able to get some penetrating oil or some kind of tool in to the latch mechanism (the lever you need to press is on the very front of the assembly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, with the hood cracked open but still latched, you might be able to undo the bolts holding the hook to the hood with a slim ratchet or a wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoKaQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last resort, the front grille is held on with a series of plastic clips. You will almost certainly not be able to pull it off without breaking them (or the grille), but once it's off, you will have free access to the hood latch assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5um6gm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my grille (this is a 2000 Forester), there are four of these at the top, whose releases are tabs pressed down from above. There is one clip in the center and two at the bottom, to release all of which the grille should be firmly lifted up. They can then be popped out and snapped into the grille for reattachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the assembly looks like from the front with the grille off. The top two are unlatched, and the bottom two should look like your situation, with the hook present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIuPV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T22:03:59.653" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T22:03:59.653" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9692" CreationDate="2014-05-07T21:28:23.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just find out today after bleeding all the left air in the low-high pressure sides, that it wasn´t the lift pump that was faulty, but just a rubber seal located on the entrance to the high pressure pump. It took me quite a long time to find out but after discarding there wasn´t any kind of lift pump located on the fuel tank (Mondeo MK3 does have one there), and that it was indeed integrated among the common rail pump like other PSA engines usually do.&#xA;I replaced this rubber seal and now car works like a charm with 270000 Km. If this same failure still persists in the future, I´ll just install a non-return valve close to the high pressure pump, and a small gasoline pump that helps send the fuel along the fuel lines because &lt;strong&gt;it does make the difference&lt;/strong&gt; on this particular case.&#xA;Regards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T21:28:23.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T07:17:13.410" Score="2" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very old car which uses mechanical transmission (Maruti Zen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently while driving on the road, I switched off the engine because of heavy still traffic. I forgot to turn off the head lights while doing that and this happened for around 1 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, when I tried to start the car again, it won't start at all. &#xA;I waited for around 30 mins outside the car and when I again tried to start the car after 30 mins, it started to my surprise !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is it seemed like a battery drain issue, but how did it start after 30 mins, if the battery got drained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S:&lt;/strong&gt; The car had stalled on an earlier ocassion, but that time, it started after someone pushed the car, while I put it in 2nd gear (and pressing/depressing the clutch pedal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5016" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T23:20:22.350" Title="Car stalled and restarted after some minutes" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|battery|alternator|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9708" CreationDate="2014-05-08T09:31:02.717" Score="3" ViewCount="18543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following values on my car battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12v 71ah 580cca&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking for a new battery, do I need to ensure I get one with those exact values, or can it be different?  For example, would the following work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12v 61ah 480cca?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;12v 81ah 680cca?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T20:28:23.720" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T20:28:23.720" Title="Do the specs of my new battery need to exactly match the old?" Tags="|battery|replace|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9706" CreationDate="2014-05-08T09:53:44.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try and get the same type. Since it's the amp's that cranks over the engine, you should try and get a minimum of 71ah as a 61ah won't last that long as it will struggle to get the starter working correctly - particularly in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 81ah battery is probably more expensive, and you won't see a massive improvement in battery life from the extra amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T09:53:44.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9706" CreationDate="2014-05-08T10:24:52.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nick stated, try and get one of the same value. If one of the same value is not available, you can always go up in CCA/ah, but never go down. Vehicles are spec'ed with a certain battery because that is what it needs to operate the starter to get the engine going. With a lower CCA/ah, you run the risk of dragging the starter, which can cause it damage. The specific CCA/ah also gives the accessories enough power without over taxing the alternator to keep up with the demand. It's kind of a symbiotic relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing you'll need to worry about is form factor. If the battery has too large of footprint it won't fit in the hole and allow you to bolt it down. If it's too tall, you won't be able to shut the hood, and shorting top post batteries across the hood is not a good thing ... think of thermal nuclear meltdown on an automobile scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T10:24:52.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9705" CreationDate="2014-05-08T10:33:21.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been my experience that a battery has what I call a &quot;rebound&quot;. After a large draw is put on it, such as the lights for a period of time, it loses some of it's peak power. Then when the draw is taken off and left to sit, it rebounds and regains some of its energy. This may have given you enough juice to get your car started. I don't have a scientific reason for this, just anecdotal evidence that it happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, I'd think your battery is almost done, though. A couple minutes of draw on the battery from the head lights should not cause this issue. I've accidentally left my lights on for a much longer period of time (30+ minutes), turned them off, then attempted to start the vehicle with success. The engine might lug over (not want to crank very well), but it eventually fires and regenerates the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T10:33:21.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T11:12:27.303" Score="4" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an old BMW 318is (1994 model, so it really is old) and received two pairs of keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VM2Xo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys come with a silver and black pad that has 4 buttons on it. I'm not sure what each button does and some guidance would be appreciated. As far as I can tell the opened keypad button is to disable the car's immobiliser and that's as far as I've gotten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key itself has a button on it too but it's broken. What does the broken button do and is it worth repairing it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. Googling for the keys didn't yield a single photo of the same keypad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5017" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T14:13:23.570" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:58:06.320" Title="Functionality of buttons on keys." Tags="|bmw|key|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9713" CreationDate="2014-05-08T13:11:54.807" Score="4" ViewCount="8803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that a TCU automates the operation of the clutch.&#xA;But I'm clueless on how an AMT can do anything a human does using a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)If you are stopped at a hill. When pulling off, a driver brings clutch to biting point so that the car wont roll back.&#xA;If an AMT does it, how will it know when and how long to hold a half clutch. Wont it burn the clutch compared to a human?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) In slow moving traffic, a manual driver creeps along by regulating the clutch depression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Manual drivers use clutch while approaching a junction or roundabout to freely coast thus saving fuel compared to continuous downshifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can an AMT be intelligent enough?&#xA;Wont it destroy the clutch?&#xA;Why is it gaining popularity recently in cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T15:31:19.827" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T16:59:30.667" Title="How does a AMT (Automated Manual Transmission) work?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9711" CreationDate="2014-05-08T16:59:30.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An AMT does the same things an automatic gearbox does, though with a bit more intelligence and in a markedly different way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how they were engineered, but if I were doing the software, I'd consider engine RPM, load, vehicle speed, current gear, required gear and maybe some historical driving data (if I wanted to get fancy) to decide how fast to modulate the clutch. If you're at 7000RPM going 100MPH in 4th gear, I'd give you instantaneous clutch, but at 1800RPM in 1st gear, I'd take my sweet time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T16:59:30.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12101" CreationDate="2014-05-08T19:50:48.213" Score="3" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; Chevrolet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Impala&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 2005&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine:&lt;/strong&gt; 3.4 L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mileage:&lt;/strong&gt; 94,000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a while now, when I start my vehicle cold, the starter turns over just fine.  However, as soon as the engine kicks on and the starter stops cranking, the engine stalls and I have to crank the starter again.  Almost always, starting the car a second time causes it to start correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still relatively new to DIY vehicle repair, so if anyone could help me provide more information about the behavior of the vehicle and other recent repairs I've tried, I'd really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has recently had plugs and wires replaced. MAF was recently replaced. O2 Sensors replaced recently also. Other maintenance (oil, fluids, etc.) has been kept up as scheduled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suggestion was to run a high quality fuel system cleaner through the vehicle, I'll give that a chance when I'm doing some other maintenance work on the vehicle and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to be replacing a leaking water pump this weekend on this car, as well as the belt - not sure if that could be related to this issue or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5020" LastEditorUserId="5020" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T20:13:30.667" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T04:48:20.293" Title="Starter Turns Over then Engine Stalls" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|stall|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T08:50:19.767" Score="19" ViewCount="95377" Body="&lt;p&gt;After running the vehicle for a certain distance usually we will change the engine oil. This will not only give engine new life with the brand new oil but will also get sludge and other sediments out of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while changing the engine oil, I would like to know whether there is any product or process with which I can get all the oil (also the residue oil and sludge sticking to the engine) out of the vehicle's engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T23:37:48.780" LastActivityDate="2021-06-27T10:04:46.873" Title="Engine oil change and getting rid of old oil completely" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|additive|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2014-05-09T08:58:15.077" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - no, you can never get rid of ALL of the old oil - and you wouldn't want to, as you need to keep a film of oil over all the moving parts all the time. The small amount of residual oil will mix with the new oil quite happily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil flows better when it is warmer (as it gets thinner), so the best way to get as much of the sludge and residue out is to do the oil change with the engine warm - just be careful of the hot components!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T08:58:15.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T11:39:06.237" Score="4" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make: Mitsubishi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: Pajero Intercooler 2800&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handling: Automatic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Year: 1992&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I forgot to release the handbrake on my car this morning. I didn't realize I forgot to release it until I had driven it approximately 10 km.  I reached a top speed of 100 km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did smell rubber burning somewhere while I was on the road, but could not tell if that was coming from my car.  Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5023" LastEditorUserId="5020" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T15:47:54.920" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T04:26:36.360" Title="Handbrake Engaged for 9-10 km Driving Roughly 80 km/h" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mitsubishi|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9717" CreationDate="2014-05-09T14:42:31.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, keeping the parking brake engaged while driving the vehicle will heat your brake pads and potentially wear them down rapidly. If you're not hearing any grinding or squeaking on your brake pads it is PROBABLY not a problem.  However, for peace of mind I'd suggest having someone inspect the brake pads for deformity or cracking, just if you want to play it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5020" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:42:31.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T15:51:39.033" Score="3" ViewCount="5067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, this question is written by someone with very little knowledge of cars. So, please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some weeks ago, I was driving to work and smelled this horrible, thick, burning odour. Given that I hadn't smelled anything like this before when driving, I pulled over and opened the bonnet. (I don't really know why - I guess I was expecting to see fire.) But it looked OK. Nothing visibly wrong and I carried on to work; the burning smell died down after 2-3 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell must have happened again two or three times following this. I finally asked my friend in work who suggested it could be the clutch or a &lt;em&gt;build up&lt;/em&gt; of something - he suggested some &lt;em&gt;italian tuning&lt;/em&gt;. Since then, the thick smell went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However every so often I will smell this much &lt;em&gt;lighter&lt;/em&gt; burning smell and unless I am totally mistaken, I think it's coming from the bonnet. Anyway, I took it to the garage today and they couldn't find anything at all. Clutch is fine and they couldn't spot anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody offer some things to look out for or try so I can get to the bottom of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2400" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T17:04:50.180" Title="Burning smell when driving" Tags="|smell|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2014-05-09T16:22:07.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if you have driven over a plastic bag and it got stuck to your vehicles hot exhaust. And now its slowly melting it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could visually inspect the exhaust to confirm. It should look like a black blob or the ruminants of a plastic bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you don't touch it after the vehicle has been driven. The exhaust is know to get rather hot (extremely hot) and will leave quite the mark.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T16:22:07.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2014-05-09T16:40:35.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These motors were plagued by problematic cylinder heads. Usually the end result in cases like yours are replacement of the Cylinder Head. Most likely there is either a blown head gasket or burnt exhaust valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no vacuum leaks and MAF is good then you need you start looking deeper into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T16:40:35.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T17:43:22.070" Score="1" ViewCount="4934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on a tight budget and need to replace my brake pads.  However, I've been told by my mechanic that if one does so without replacing the rotors, they will be &quot;mismatched&quot; and that will cause the rotor to warp and the brake pad to wear down quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there truth to this?  I get the feeling that it's bogus, but I want to be sure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note: this is a different question than &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/73/should-i-resurface-or-replace-my-rotors-everytime-i-replace-brake-pads&quot;&gt;this one over here&lt;/a&gt;, as I am specifically asking if in normal wear situations, replacing a brake pad without replacing an undamaged rotor will cause issues due to them being &quot;mismatched&quot; -- which is not answered satisfactorily in the linked question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5027" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T23:29:49.690" Title="Do I Need To Replace Rotors Whenever I Replace Brake Pads?" Tags="|brakes|replace|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-05-09T18:59:08.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9722" CreationDate="2014-05-09T18:56:39.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanic is right and wrong. You may not have to &lt;em&gt;replace&lt;/em&gt; them, but should at least have the rotors resurfaced, or turned. This restores the braking surface for the new pads to have compatible surface. Putting new pads on used rotors is not advised and will prematurely wear the pads. The caveat is if the rotors are too thin and can not be turned, they will need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a safety issue&lt;/strong&gt;, not a budget issue. When you step on the brakes, you want them to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T18:56:39.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9728" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:47:20.700" Score="2" ViewCount="5327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at purchasing a 2008 CTS RWD. From what I could gather from various forums, it sounds like a limited-slip was only included if you purchased the &quot;summer performance tires&quot; package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure that I get the LSD since I'll be driving it in the winter; is there any way to tell from a VIN number lookup or other method whether the car has one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5029" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T00:16:05.047" Title="How to tell if an 08 CTS has a limited-slip differential?" Tags="|rear-differential|gm|lsd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:55:50.843" Score="1" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard that it was possible to install a switch in a 2003 Town &amp;amp; Country to disable the airbag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We called several auto shops, who said they don't do it.&#xA;We called Chrysler, who said they only heard of it being done in pickup trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible, and how/where to get it done, to install a switch to disable the air bag in a 2003 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5028" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T19:26:33.183" Title="Install switch to disable airbag in 2003 Chrysler Town &amp; Country" Tags="|chrysler|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:25:39.730" Score="2" ViewCount="6461" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Honda Accord EX,  L4-2254cc 2.3L SOHC (VTEC) MFI, 108,000 miles. Recently bought it from a private owner and was told nothing was wrong with the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car starts rough when the engine is cold. Sounds like its choking. Giving it gas does the same, it chokes a few times and revs. It also hesitates when driving but only when the engine is cold. Once the engine gets hot enough it drives like there's not a single thing wrong. Drove it out on the freeway once, car was fine until I got up to 70 mph, then car started to hesitate again. RPM wouldn't go past 3500 and the check engine light started flashing. I managed to get out of the freeway and took the local road. The car drove like it had no problem. The next day I started the car, the check engine light was gone. I managed to get it checked before it went away and code was P1399. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I've done so far is to replace all 4 spark plugs (NGK) and distributor cap and rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hasn't solved the problem. I don't know much about cars so if anyone knows about anything I would really appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T12:35:01.307" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:35:01.307" Title="02 Accord, rough idle and hesitates when cold" Tags="|honda|accord|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9725" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:36:25.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to find the RPO (Regular Production Options) list on the Service Parts Identification label. Similar to what is pictured below. It will likely be on the spare tire cover or the glove box, but may also be in the door jam or under some other compartment lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRLXd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each on of those three digit number/letters indicates an option the car is equipped with on of them will tell you what kind of rear axle is in the car. You can look them up on a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpocodes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.rpocodes.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the example codes I have listed at the bottom that this vehicle has positive traction and a 3.42 gear ratio. I would start by looking up the codes starting with G, but it could be any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also ask your local dealer parts department they should be able to tell you by VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1TA : AXLE, FULL FLOATING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GU6 : AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T21:34:07.493" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T21:34:07.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:39:33.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some serious black sludge after not changing my oil for over a year. Ran castrol gtx in it with k&amp;amp;n filter for a month. After that, I did another change with my preferred oil. The &quot;new&quot; oil has about 8,000km on it and still looks very clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Castrol advertises the &quot;tri-shield technology&quot; in the GTX oil and from experience, it does seem to work as advertised for getting rid of sludge at least... and I'm a sucker for cheesy commercials: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFsRVcQuTQo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFsRVcQuTQo&lt;/a&gt; (tri-shield ad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't completely answer your question in removing all &quot;residue oil&quot; but you wouldn't want to do that anyways. The oil also protects the parts from oxidization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5031" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:39:33.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9725" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:41:10.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Larry said, look for the RPO codes. The code you are looking for the Limited Slip option is &lt;strong&gt;G80&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2008-2013-cadillac-cts-general-discussion/130777-rpo-codes-2008-cadillac-cts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Look here&lt;/a&gt; for a list of RPO codes specific to your CTS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:41:10.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:59:27.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a bird once stuck on a radiator and also a rodent of some sort stuck around the heater core. Both owners complained of a burning smell that went away after removal of burnt corpses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5031" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:59:27.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9727" CreationDate="2014-05-09T21:19:14.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda assigns the P1399 code for random misfires.  On some models this is caused by a clogged EGR Port. The Valve clearance may also be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause is the intake air temperature sensor. If it's reading incorrectly it can cause the cold start problem you are having, an possibly even the high speed problem as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T22:25:10.517" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T22:25:10.517" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9726" CreationDate="2014-05-09T21:57:35.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No reputable shop is going to even consider doing it for you, as it opens you and them up to a major liability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately for you the vehicle was made in the time frame when manufactures hadn't fully dealt with the problem of small adults and children being injured by the airbags. The vehicle is equipped with dual stage airbags, which was one of the first steps but the newer cars turn the airbag off and on depending on who is sitting in the front seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put small adults or children in the front seat, but If you &lt;strong&gt;Must&lt;/strong&gt;, then move the seat to the rearward most position. And &lt;strong&gt;NEVER put a rear facing child seat in the front seat of a vehicle with an active airbag regardless of seat position.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aoielectrical.com/index.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AOI Electrical, LLC. A Pro-gard Products Company&lt;/a&gt; that makes the switches and has a network of dealers to sell and install them. You could contact them about putting one in for you. Again I wouldn't, but the option does exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T19:26:33.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T19:26:33.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9725" CreationDate="2014-05-10T00:16:05.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubt at all that the RPO code sticker is accurate (like, maybe someone swapped the rear differential), you can tell an ordinary open diff from an LSD by jacking up the rear end of the car, releasing the parking brake, and turning each rear wheel in turn, leaving the other one free to turn by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an open differential, the opposite side rear wheel will turn the opposite way (backward vs forward).  With limited slip, the opposite side rear wheel will turn the same way (i.e., both wheels turning forward, or both turning in reverse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T00:16:05.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-10T03:00:19.573" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced pistons, lifters, pushrods, and head on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It started right up, but the RPM went to redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked throttle body components, the linkages are OK, but the valve plate is not opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5032" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T11:11:57.960" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T21:38:39.107" Title="Jeep Grand Cherokee redlines after engine overhaul" Tags="|engine|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9735" CreationDate="2014-05-10T21:25:41.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if the intake manifold is not sealed properly. The large intake leak will force the engine to redline instantly once started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T21:25:41.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26117" CreationDate="2014-05-11T11:56:34.367" Score="5" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, and not all the time, the wiper arms on my car are so weak that they get stuck on the last wipe of a screen wash 'job'.   At first I thought it was friction with the window, but I've since tested by holding the wipers away from the window with my hands while the arms try to move it. I can feel with my arms holding the wipers that the wiper's arms are struggling to move the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inexplicably - other times they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't quite know whether it's purely mechanical, or relies on the battery, or involves rubber pulleys.   Before I reluctantly take it to a repair garage (where they might quote for an expensive complete system replacement) I thought I might ask here to see if there is any knowledge of how these work in my model of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-11T18:52:22.403" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:17:01.940" Title="Jaguar S-type (2000) wiper mechanism sometimes very weak" Tags="|windshield-wipers|jaguar|s-type|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T12:02:22.273" Score="2" ViewCount="4091" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the many problems with my car is that occasionally I can't lock it because a mechanical problem in the passenger side front door interferes with the central locking process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lock the drivers side door, I hear the mechanism lock around the car,  then the mechanism immediately unlocks.  I punched the passenger side door and got the whole lot to lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid the risk of one day having to leave my car unlocked, is there a way I can deliberately disable central locking so that the door locks behave indepentendly of each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T18:11:15.873" Title="Is it possible to disable central locking on a Jaguar S-type (2000)" Tags="|electrical|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T13:21:21.030" Score="4" ViewCount="2628" Body="&lt;p&gt;My flatmate drives a 2001 BMW E46 330Ci automatic transmission. I sat next to him while he drove us to the supermarket. When we arrived, I noticed that he only put the gear lever into 'P' and switch off the engine. I reminded him that he has not pull up his handbrake lever yet and he says there is no need to. I did not ask him why because I don't want to sound like someone who has not sat in a BMW before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to pull the handbrake lever when you're in 'P' mode especially for BMW cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5037" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T18:50:17.617" Title="On a BMW E46 330Ci, is it necessary to pull the handbrake lever when you're in 'P' mode?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|bmw|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9741" CreationDate="2014-05-11T17:12:13.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not BMW specific, but rather automatic car specific. Yes, it is always a good idea to use the handbrake, especially when parking on hills. This is because when you put an automatic transmission in park, the only thing really keeping the vehicle from rolling is the parking pin. Over time, or with enough force in an instance, this could eventually break. However, a lot of people no longer bother because of the idea that it is no longer necessary or lack of training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best case scenario is to try and avoid significant stresses to the parking pin. Come to a stop, keep foot on the brake, move into park, and apply the handbrake. Now admittedly on flat ground as long as the vehicle has come to a complete stop before moving into park, it probably won't matter a lot. But always better to be safe than sorry, and it really doesn't take that much time to apply/release, especially on modern electronic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4994" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T17:12:13.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9741" CreationDate="2014-05-11T18:50:17.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, definitely not a stupid question. As was stated in the previous answer, this does not apply to BMW's alone, but to automobiles in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, it is not really needed to apply the parking brake. The parking pin within the transmission will keep your vehicle in place without issue. Even on slight inclines, this poses no problems. If however, you are on a steeper grade (steep enough for the vehicle to noticeably move after putting it in park and taking your foot off the brake ... but apply the brake before you take your foot off the brake pedal), you need to apply the parking brake. This serves two purposes. First, as stated, to ensure the vehicle does not roll away if the parking pin should fail. Secondly, so you can get the car back out of park when it's time to go again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a vehicle with a standard transmission, it is imperative that you use the parking brake to secure the vehicle. Some people would believe that having the transmission in gear is good enough. Even with the engine off, the weight of a vehicle is enough to turn the engine over if it is in gear. Mind you, with the ignition off, the engine will not run, but it can still move. Secondly, unlike an automatic, when you leave the car in gear with the engine off, you are still putting pressure on the transmission. It's not good to have the static weight of the vehicle on the gears/bearing of the transmission. This can cause premature wear inside of the transmission. Again, you obviously wouldn't have any strain on the transmission when the auto is parked on flat ground, but then someone can still easily move your car. Drive a roll back recovery vehicle in front of it, hook up a winch cable to it, draw it up onto the flatbed, and drive away. No more car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T18:50:17.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11055" CreationDate="2014-05-11T22:59:31.313" Score="4" ViewCount="56500" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, does the oil sump plug washer need to be replaced after every oil change, or can they be reused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background - my 2005 Daihatsu Copen needs an oil change every 3000 miles. I have always reused the washer in previous cars three times before replacing them, however these cars have far longer service intervals at 15,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T01:27:22.763" Title="Replacing oil sump plug washer after every oil change" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9700" CreationDate="2014-05-11T23:38:12.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After your last edit and a few minutes of thinking about your situation I have one more question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When he vehicle is in gear and moving is there any noise? With the pedal fully depressed is there any noise?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume the answer to those are both no and there is simply just difficulty switching gears and the roughness felt during pedal travel. That being said, it sounds like the throw out bearing / clutch release bearing has failed or is about to really fail (no one likes being stranded). Its not uncommon for the failure so don't feel like you've done something wrong. It may be worth your while to pickup a full clutch kit for the car. It will come with a clutch, pressure plate, flywheel (might be extra in some kits), and a throw out bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T23:38:12.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T09:28:43.190" Score="3" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2nd generation Toyota Hi-Ace Diesel is not starting easily, or occasionally not starting at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have:&#xA;Tested the glow plugs - all quick and fully bright;&#xA;Changed battery;&#xA;Changed the air filter;&#xA;Changed the fuel filter; and&#xA;Run Liqui-Moly injector cleaner through, and added Liqui-Moly to diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the outside temperature is having an effect but need to be able to overcome this.&#xA;My next step is to install new glow plugs in the hope that there is some undetectable fault with the existing ones.&#xA;Is this a good idea? Or are there any better ideas out there?&#xA;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5041" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T12:28:45.747" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T12:28:45.747" Title="How do I make my 2nd generation Toyota Hi-Ace start more easily?" Tags="|toyota|ignition|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T02:12:07.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T09:42:57.713" Score="2" ViewCount="27474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 John Deere 115 19 HP automatic riding mower. After leaving it in the garage all winter, I started the mower, drove it about 50 yards, and engaged the blade. It went about 20 feet, made a loud boom, and has not started since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a lawn mower repair guy come out who said that the engine was &quot;gone&quot;. He didn't do really anything as far as I could tell other than listen to it and spin the top of the engine. He said the engine shouldn't spin like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said he would do research and see about options on a replacement. He said it was going to be $450.00 US for a &quot;Short Block&quot;, and he would charge an additional $200 US for labor. He said that he would just bolt my existing parts (starter, muffler, etc.) to the short block and it would be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether or not I should put $650.00 US into a John Deere mower which is almost 10 years old and that I paid about 1,300.00 US for when I bought it brand new. As far as I can tell, it will cost me about $1800.00 US for a similar replacement. I'm really not sure if this &quot;short block&quot; solution is common and a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth the repair costs, or should I just buy a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5042" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T21:45:34.210" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T21:45:34.210" Title="Should I replace a &quot;blown&quot; engine on my John Deere mower?" Tags="|engine|lawnmower|john-deere|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9750" CreationDate="2014-05-12T10:07:50.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you should find out the actual problem - &quot;engine gone&quot; could be almost anything, and may well be something you can fix for a lot less than an entire new engine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you describe the symptoms a bit clearer? Does the engine spin freely? Does it spin faster or slower than it used to? Are there any visible signs of damage, or leaking oil? Does the oil look normal (have a look in the filler)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The economics of repair vs replacement are off-topic for this site, we're all about repair here anyway! If you want to save money, repairing it yourself is an ideal opportunity to learn a bit more about how engines work - and shouldn't be difficult for a small engine like that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T10:07:50.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9740" CreationDate="2014-05-12T10:20:00.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but it is probably just as easy to fix the problem! There are two ways to disable it - either remove the fuse from the central locking system (if there is one fuse that only powers that), or disconnect the wiring from the driver's door actuator, so that locking that door does not trigger the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to do the latter, you might as well do the passenger door instead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the passenger door trim - this will involve finding and removing all the screws, of which there will be several, mostly holding on things like the inner handle. Remove the handle and other trim components - this will involve unhooking the rod that works the handle. Once you've done that, prise off the clips that hold the trim on - the easiest way is to slide a blunt, flat object between the trim and the door and use that to pop them out. A workshop manual or a set of photos might help here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the trim off, you'll find a plastic sheet held on with a horrible sticky goo. Peel this back, and be careful not to get the goo on your clothing. You should then have access to the inside of the door - at this point you might be able to see the problem. If not, find the wiring to the central locking actuator and disconnect it - this should stop it from interfering with the system, so you can still lock all the other doors automatically. You can then investigate further to figure out the underlying problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T10:20:00.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2014-05-12T10:52:20.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'm not seeing an issue with replacing the washer. This is a $.05 part. For my '08 Hyundai Azera, it comes with the filter I get from my Hyundai dealer. Does it really need replaced? Probably not, but the one time when it does need changed and you don't do it may be the difference between a $.05 part and a $2500 overhaul/engine replacement. To me it's just cheap insurance. Realistically, you probably would never see a complete engine failure due to oil loss, but you'd probably see a nice spot in the driveway, which can be quite annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T10:52:20.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T11:12:09.097" Score="4" ViewCount="12024" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine of my 1984 Toyota Carina AA60 works great when idling without the air conditioner running, but immediately after switching it on, it idles very badly, and a big noise starts up. If I move my car forward, it feels like the engine has a lot of load. Also, the A/C air speed increases with my acceleration. I am hearing a 'click click' noise right after I use the accelerator. This is a terrible feeling when I am in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have re-installed an A/C compressor, and the A/C clutch is working very well. The A/C belt is not too tight, but I still have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends said that there may be an issue with the gas inside the compressor. Does that sound right? What else can I look at to solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5043" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T19:28:20.257" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T04:31:29.747" Title="Engine idles badly and loudly when I switch on the A/C" Tags="|toyota|noise|ac|rough-idle|carina|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9750" CreationDate="2014-05-12T14:34:42.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get quotes from one or two other repairers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Deere is a good brand, I'd hope that parts would be readily available at reasonable cost even though it is old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$450 seems a lot to me (though I've no experience with this situation) so I'd ask a John Deere  parts retailer for parts prices. It may be the repairer just assumed that the crankshaft, pistons and cylinders were all ruined. This may not be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing a &quot;short block&quot; &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be the simplest and fastest repair - and therefore it may be the cheapest if you are paying someone else on a time and materials basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you (and your son?) would like a project to do together, stripping down the engine together and looking at any damage might be a good experience for both of you and worth more than $450. If you hate working on mechanical things this may not be the best place to get answers :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T14:34:42.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9674" CreationDate="2014-05-12T16:38:08.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going purely on the fact that it's a Toyota and that part looks very similar to one in the glove box of my Prius, yes, it's the damper. And I can confirm that the damper includes a spring, a couple of small wheels, and string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside to not replacing it is that opening the glove box becomes a fairly rough experience. I finally bought one when I noticed that the frame around the opening was getting fatigue marks on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:38:08.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9903" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:29:53.803" Score="4" ViewCount="22497" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About my bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Honda CBR 250R &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total Run:&lt;/strong&gt; 17500kms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total Time:&lt;/strong&gt; 1 year 1 month (&lt;em&gt;rotor &amp;amp; break fluid never changed, break pad changed 6 months back&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Break Fluid Level:&lt;/strong&gt; 3mm above lower line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got my brake pads changed, both rear and front from Authorized Honda Service Center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a problem with the rear brake pad. When I press the pedal, it's ineffective at first, though it does stop the tyre with a harder push. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My mechanic says that brake pads take a while to set into their place, and it's only after 100 - 200 kilometres of driving that you would be able to achieve the pedal's fully sensitive braking.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have driven 200kms but I still find my pedal initially ineffective on light pressing while very light breaking on medium pressing though rock solid effect on a hard push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have checked my rotor. The overall surface is smooth on touching&#xA;and is not greasy. But area near inner end of the rotor looks&#xA;scratchy and rusty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close View of Rotor &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04lSN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close View of Rotor and Break Pad&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another view of Rotor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VnW9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 2 of my Rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I bleeded the break by opening the valve, pressing the break, closing&#xA;the valve and releasing the break. I did this thrice and I do think I&#xA;have achieved a bit improvement but not perfection yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to make my breaks effective as new?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="4935" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T20:04:01.563" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T14:56:39.430" Title="Does the brake pedal always feel soft after the pads are changed?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9758" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:37:50.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure on a bike, but if this was a car I would tell you that the shop didn't burnish or set in the pads after the brake job, or failed to turn the rotors, or the rotors were turned improperly. Based on the number of miles you have driven without improvement I am leaning toward the rotors not being turned, or turned incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/4152/paulster2&quot;&gt;Paulster2&lt;/a&gt; pointed out in the comments they may not have cleaned the rotor off, some new rotors come with a coating on them out of the box that is suppose to be cleaned off before installation. If you didn't get a new rotor then it's unlikely the cause. They could have got grease all over the rotor when doing the brake job and didn't clean it off. Both of these would have caused a smell when you first started driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that there is air in the line as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9765/85&quot;&gt;jman&lt;/a&gt; suggests but unless they did something unusual they shouldn't have introduced air into the hydraulic system to do the brake job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is the brakes should function to their full capacity when it leaves the repair facility or they didn't do it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While all of these things can help you troubleshoot the problem you shouldn't start taking things apart or trying to fix it yourself. As they can then blame you for the issue. You paid a shop to repair your brakes and they are legally obligated to fix it correctly, and give you what you paid for. I would take it back to the shop immediately and demand that they fix the problem, or refund your money so you can take it to a shop that will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T14:15:27.153" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:56:30.967" Score="13" ViewCount="10373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to repair my Volkswagen Passat '07 A/C. I've taken it to two shops (dealer and independent) and they both say the entire a/c system needs to be replaced. The strange thing is, that sometimes it actually comes on and when it does it works great. The rest of the time I can't get it to come on at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to force the A/C to stay on when I tell it? I've heard that there is a limiter that keeps the compressor off when certain sensors are not reading correctly to protect the compressor from damage. In my case though they're recommending replacing the entire system so I don't see any problems forcing it to work until it can't cool anymore. Also does it make sense that I need a new compressor when it works great sometimes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T11:59:53.283" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T13:25:44.997" Title="Volkswagen A/C Intermittent" Tags="|ac|vw|passat|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T20:44:49.720" Score="3" ViewCount="5250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rounded off a triple-square bolt while trying to undo it with a regular 6-point Torx bit. How can I undo it without resorting to purchasing a dedicated triple-square bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt is done up with blue Loctite and is in a recessed area, so it isn't easy to wrap a pair of vice-grips around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T16:13:06.823" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T23:50:11.293" Title="Undoing a rounded-off triple-square bolt" Tags="|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T22:16:38.033" Score="2" ViewCount="10859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C2 VTS 1.6L 2007, with a very similar problem to;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6538/unable-to-start-the-vehicle-depending-on-how-long-it-has-previously-been-driven/9755#9755&quot;&gt;Unable to start the vehicle depending on how long it has previously been driven&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I am currently trying to fault find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms: The car will not start when the key is turned on in the ignition. Somethings I can here small relays and the solenoid picking up and other times nothing happens. Sometimes only the small relays pick up. I clutch started the car and after driving around for 10 minutes the car came up if a fault on the inside display, 'electric circuit fault'. What I have read on the internet is this fault is a separate fault to do with my alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pulled out the starter motor and tested it on a 12V supply. It worked fine. With the starter motor disconnected, I tested for 12V at the starter motor connection terminal with someone else turning the ignition on. I should have had 12V, but did not get anything. I tested the battery and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the solenoid is not located directly on top of the starter motor like most other cars. Does anyone know where it is located on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T06:03:14.073" Title="Citroen C2 VTS 1.6L 2007 - Not starting - sometimes clicking and other times nothing at all" Tags="|starting|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9758" CreationDate="2014-05-13T10:06:14.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake hydraulic system might have an air bubble in the piping or cylinder unit. You may need to &quot;bleed&quot; the system by pumping the brake handle until firm, holding the handle down and opening the hydraulic nipple (liquid and air should spray out), then close the nipple and repeat if necessary. Remember that faulty brakes could cost you in the end so make sure its done proper. Newly installed pads on a straight brake disk should not give hassles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5049" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T13:49:55.563" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T13:49:55.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-13T17:24:25.237" Score="3" ViewCount="3185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like my 2006 Mazda RX-8 Shinka to be a little louder. I just don't know where to start though. The engine has such a nice sound, but I can't really hear it. I don't want it to be so loud that it annoys the neighbors but a little more sound would be nice. It has the stock exhaust and intake right now. I don't think it's allowed to remove the cat here in Arizona. I also don't want anything that might make the car run hotter. I'm aware that answers will mostly be limited to exhaust and intake mods, but I just don't know where to start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hear the sound of the car in the video I made...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnzaAj5T_kI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnzaAj5T_kI&lt;/a&gt; (go to 7:30 for the driving test)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T08:05:55.040" Title="Improve engine sound of Mazda RX-8" Tags="|mazda|exhaust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9766" CreationDate="2014-05-13T17:44:36.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are not going to be able to tell you what you like and don't like in an exhaust note. I may like something, which may sound too raspy or too loud or too (insert here) to you. What you need to do is go to YouTube and do a search for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mazda+rx8+exhaust+sound&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mazda RX8 Exhaust Sound&lt;/a&gt;&quot; ... in fact if you click the link I provided, it will take you there. Take a listen to the different exhaust notes, figure out which one you like, and go someplace and purchase it. You would be looking for a &quot;cat-back&quot;. Arizona does have smog laws which would not permit you to remove your cats, unless you do something nefarious like get your PCM tuned where the CEL doesn't come on. Aftermarket cat back systems are made to fit so well, a regular person can change out the stock exhaust system to the aftermarket one with regular hand tools (basic socket set, jack, jack stands, and possibly some way to cut the old exhaust off). It's something you can do without taking it to a shop. The car would not need to have the computer tuned after putting it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T17:44:36.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9769" CreationDate="2014-05-13T18:00:06.487" Score="3" ViewCount="5065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carwale.com/hyundai-cars/santroxing/xoerlxeuroiii20052009-specifications-613.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hyundai Santro Xing eRLX&lt;/a&gt; car and currently it has 155/70 R13 tyres on four wheels and all tyres almost crossed 40000kms. I've recently replaced both front tyres with brand new tyres. I've two spare tyres which are of size 145/70 R13 (took from Daewoo Matiz car), which are pretty good condition (10000kms mileage). I wanted to use these two matiz tyres on Santro. I'm completely clueless about what are implications using two different tyre sizes for front and rear wheels. Also not sure what is the issue if I downgrade these tyres to 145/70 R13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody explain me pros (if any) and cons and provide some details why this is a bad/good decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel info of this car: &#xA;Wheel Type - Pressed Steel&#xA;Wheel Size - 13 Inch&#xA;Tyres - 155/70 R 13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T11:51:23.273" Title="Is it advisable to upgrade/downgrade tyres of Hyundai Santro Xing eRLX to 145/70 R13 from 155/70 R13" Tags="|tires|wheels|hyundai|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9768" CreationDate="2014-05-13T18:27:45.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to under stand what the numbers mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;155 - tread width in millimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;70 - tire sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the tire width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13 - rim diameter in inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, as your tire width becomes smaller, the tire sidewall height becomes smaller as well, so the overall tire height becomes shorter. This will make the rotations per mile (RPM - yes, this is confusing when you think of engine speed) become less as the tire gets smaller. Less RPM, higher tire/wheel speed at the same rate of vehicle travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how does this affect the vehicle? Many of today's vehicles have anti-lock braking, traction control, and stability systems which require that each wheel be measured for speed and then is compared to the other wheels to figure out if there is a difference. When you put two dissimilar tires front and rear, this may have the ill effect of messing with these systems, thus throwing a check engine light (or antilock break malfunction light) on the dashboard, which in turn disables these systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the minor difference you'd see in these two tire sizes is enough to freak out the vehicle computer, but I'd suggest there is a good chance of it. The larger the difference, the greater chance this could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T18:27:45.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9768" CreationDate="2014-05-13T19:06:54.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb used by some tire retailers is to not deviate from the official sidewall height by more than 3%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the sidewall height of your original tire is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;155 * 0.7 = 108.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for a 145/70:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;145 * 0.7 = 101.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a reduction of roughly 7%. The rule of thumb recommends against 145/70 in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the same rule of thumb suggests that 145/75 is much closer to the original sidewall height and should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T19:06:54.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4859" CreationDate="2014-05-13T23:57:05.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed the vibration problem I had for 1 year on my 2007 toyota camry after I cleaned the throttle body and air control valve (iac) the car is driving perfect.  I can not believe it was so easy to fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5055" LastEditorUserId="5055" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T00:02:12.737" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T00:02:12.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2014-05-14T00:00:37.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a known issues with the motor mounts. It's not a mechanical problem, the motor mounts just wear out and the engine will shake a bit. It's potentially expensive to fix, and I wouldn't worry about it if the car checks out with a basic check. You should, of course, make sure nothing is going wrong with the computer, vaccuum, alternator, etc - but if all that stuff checks out, you can probably ignore this issue. If it really annoys you, get those motor mounts replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T00:00:37.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9829" CreationDate="2014-05-14T01:11:40.060" Score="3" ViewCount="5964" Body="&lt;p&gt;My TPMS light (not the tire icon, the textual light) has come on as of late, then turned off for a couple of days, then on, and now off again. The tire pressure in all four tires is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, this shows that the tire pressure monitoring system is having a problem reading the pressure of the tires, but then, &lt;strong&gt;why would the TPMS light turn off and on, instead of staying on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the fact that I recently changed the front tires have anything to do with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I'm driving a 2009 Hyundai Sonata.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5057" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T02:46:00.037" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T17:37:21.883" Title="Intermittent TPMS Light" Tags="|tires|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9774" CreationDate="2014-05-14T01:18:40.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you have a wheel sensor going bad in one of your rims. Also, when you say you &quot;The tire pressure on all four tires is OK.&quot; ... are they over pressure? The light could come on if there is too much air in a tire just through expansion because it is getting warmer out. I'm not sure if this is viewable through a code reader on the Hyundai, but if it is, it should tell you which tire is actually having the issue, when the light is on, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on when exactly you bought the car, this may be covered under warranty. Hyundai has the 60k mile warranty. I'm reaching on this, but it still may be viable under their bumper-to-bumper warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T01:18:40.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9766" CreationDate="2014-05-14T08:05:55.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally someone mentions rotary engines!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing a huge freeflow exhaust and the biggest rear silencer box you can fit will give you a nice deep growl. Remember to not go too big on the pipe because that actually robs performance (for the same reason chimneys are long and slender and not short and fat). A short ram intake would also improve the sound. Take note that there is a thing called a sports cat (a cool-sounding name for a high-flow catalytic converter) which will sound better, but still remain legal). Finally, if you feel like spending lots of money, have the engine bridge-ported. It improves the airflow into the engine, but also gives it a nice angry sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/oEOHn7rspsk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video has the prettiest engine sound IN THE WORLD&lt;/a&gt;(said in Jeremy Clarkson's voice):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T08:05:55.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9778" CreationDate="2014-05-14T10:33:16.153" Score="1" ViewCount="7728" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a multiple of different kinds of suspension, multi-link suspensions and double-wishbone are popular in some performance groups.  What are the main difference between these two?  What advantages and disadvantages does each offer over the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T11:24:12.183" Title="What are the differences between multi-link suspensions and double-wishbone suspensions?" Tags="|suspension|tuning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9777" CreationDate="2014-05-14T11:24:12.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the obvious bits, the difference is that a multi-link suspension allows you to adjust one setting independently from the rest, e.g. camber, caster, toe in/out and ride height, giving you greater control over the final setup. Dual wishbone suspensions on the other hand don't offer quite as much flexibility, but they make up for it by being pretty good from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people claim that multi-link setups are more forgiving when driving over bumpy surfaces, and I have no reason to argue with them, but I personally believe that has more to do with relative spring and compression rates as well as shock absorber type than anything else. In other words, I don't think you'll feel much of a difference between the two setups in the same car if they are tuned for the exact same conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T11:24:12.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9365" CreationDate="2014-05-14T13:23:14.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2012 XJ6 is fuel injected, so an aftermarket exhaust (Arrows, Leo Vince, Scorpion, Two Brothers, Akrapovic etc) would be easily procured. You may even get good deals on used slip-on exhausts, and you could then re-pack the glass wool (other as applicable) if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep the cost down, you could opt for a slip-on exhaust (muffler) instead of a full-system (&quot;whole line&quot;). In either case, some performance benefits and varying levels of exhaust note changes will be obtained. In either case, significant weight reduction is possible. In my case, the stock exhaust was 11 kilos, while my aftermarket full system was under 3.5 kilos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock maps that come tuned for the stock exhaust may not allow you to extract all that the aftermarket exhaust could give. For this, a piggy-back module like the Dynojet Power Commander, or Bazzaz units that allow you to load a different (read richer) map will help with the gain in performance you would desire. In addition, such units allow you to get rid of flat spots in the stock map, to keep the power delivery linear over the rev-range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options like Tuneboy and Flashtune that remap the stock ECU instead of requiring a piggy-back unit. However, these may void your warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be aware that certain cities have regulations that govern the permitted sound level for exhausts. Most exhausts come with baffles that reduce the sound output to an extent. Please check the regulations in your area of use before you pull the trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;happy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T13:23:14.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2014-05-14T15:43:51.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Man, I have just the opposite experience as above.cThree cars of mine have strut tower braces. A 2002 Toyota Avalon, 2004 BMW 325ci and a 1995 M3. All 3 braces were &quot;hingeless&quot;, and all 3 cars are unibody contstruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3 braces made a difference but not all the same. The Toyota Avalon (Solara) brace made the biggest difference. The M3 brace made the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No quantitative testing was performed but qualitatively, the &quot;turn in&quot; response times are perceptible on all. I would expect a small increase in handling times as well. Ride quality suffers but minimally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These, when made specifically for the car, are very easy to install and add minimum weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles are reinforced better than others.  I would suspect the most dramatic effects from Front engine, FWD vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;abfisch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5060" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:08:20.313" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:08:20.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2014-05-14T21:25:50.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It made a noticeable difference on my old Legacy, but I was racing that car. You might not notice it with normal driving. If you are noticing frame flex in your car though, you have problems that a stabilizer bar won't help. If this is bothering you, have the frame checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T21:25:50.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9763" CreationDate="2014-05-14T22:17:10.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Heat it up&lt;/em&gt; to break the thread-lock compound. Tool selection isn't going to matter much if the thread-lock won't release. Probably the reason you stripped it in the first place? Anyway, after it's properly heated, you should be able to get it out with vise-grips, or by cutting a slot for a standard screwdriver. The issue you're facing is the lock-tite though - deal with that and then you have options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had some luck with stripped hex heads by simply hammering a flat-head screwdriver of the right size into the remaining corners, but keep in mind, everything like that you try will make the problem worse if it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="5048" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T22:28:16.417" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T22:28:16.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2014-05-14T23:02:11.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mix oils synthetic or mineral as well as different viscosities. Only worry is for warrenty other than that you just changing the viscosity. Median range oils will not seperate simply beacuse they are synthetic vs mineral. In actuality most &quot;synthetic&quot; oils are actually mineral oils that meet the spec of synthetics and therfore are allowed by our governments to be labelled synthetic. The only true synthetic oil I know of is Mobil delvac and I have been working in the oil industry for 15 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5061" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T00:45:14.820" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T00:45:14.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-15T06:24:44.433" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get the parts catalog for Suzuki Ignis 2003 model car. How do you get parts catalogs? My Internet research has not yielded much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5062" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:31:41.060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:31:41.060" Title="Where can I get vehicle parts catalog?" Tags="|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7192" CreationDate="2014-05-15T09:13:54.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the fuel filler pipes? These can sometimes rot or perish and cause vapours to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same can also happen with the fuel tank ventilator pipes, which allow air in to the tank as the fuel level drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T09:13:54.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9432" CreationDate="2014-05-15T09:25:09.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per Paulster2's comment, I'd suspect the UJ/CV in the hub - especially if it is worse when turning a corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, what happens if you engage the hub, but leave the gearbox in 2wd (or vice versa), so that the front drivetrain is turning, but not transmitting drive under load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T09:25:09.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9784" CreationDate="2014-05-15T09:38:25.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't really know if this post is appropriate as it is a freebook (I think it depends on your country) but try this link : &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebookbrowsee.net/gdoc.php?id=510662984&amp;amp;url=980d415e2afc69b3cd1d5875318ef91a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical revue&lt;/a&gt;, which may contains references to parts catalogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; An other (better one) alternative can be to ask your Suzuki dealer - or a multi-brands dealer - the parts catalogs or technical revue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4866" LastEditorUserId="4866" LastEditDate="2014-05-16T14:34:32.480" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:34:32.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9791" CreationDate="2014-05-15T12:34:27.860" Score="1" ViewCount="21196" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kia failed its annual safety inspection so I'm going to be replacing the front wheel bearings (both front wheels have top-to-bottom play when up on the lift). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say you should only use enough grease to thoroughly fill the bearings themselves. Others say things like &quot;you can never have enough grease&quot; and suggest packing the entire hub full of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also read that too much grease can cause overheating and leakage issues. Others say that filling the entire cavity with grease means that there's &quot;no room&quot; for anything else in there...such as water (I've heard this is mostly important for boat trailers where the wheels get submerged though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much grease is the right amount when packing wheel bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For reference my car is a 2002 Kia Sportage rear-wheel-drive and it uses the tapered-roller style of bearings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4740" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T13:50:36.543" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T23:33:55.123" Title="How much grease when packing wheel bearings?" Tags="|kia|grease|bearing|sportage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-16T15:41:59.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2014-05-15T13:39:28.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're greasing bearings, the rule of thumb you can fall back on is to apply as much grease as you would apply frosting on a cupcake (don't be silly, you know exactly what I mean). Excess grease will be expelled while you're tightening the retainer nut anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T13:39:28.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2014-05-15T18:41:59.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem and after looking at wiring diagrams was able to charge battery by connecting the charger to the large positive connection on the alternator.  Leave your charger off while making the connection then plug it in with the positive on this wire that is under a rubber cover that can be easily pulled off. then connect negative to ground and set charger to low amperage or use a trickle charger to avoid possibility of blowing fuse in this line.  I did 6 amps and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5065" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T18:41:59.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9788" CreationDate="2014-05-15T23:33:55.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not need any more grease than what it takes to pack the bearing itself. Packing the entire wheel hub assembly is not only a waste, it's also not wise. When you go to change bearings or repack them in the future, you'll need to clean all of that old grease out. This is not a good idea. As an aside, I pack new bearings which may or may not have been packed in grease from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly grease a bearing, put enough grease in your hand to cover your palm. Since you said it's a taper bearing, place your index finger down through the center of the bearing. Your bearing hand (as opposed to your grease hand) should be facing palm down. The wide end of the bearing should also be pointing down. Squeeze the bearing with your middle finger and thumb to hold it tight. Press the bearing down into the grease on your palm, using your index finger (holding the bearing) as a guide against the side of your palm. Use a motion in which you are scooping the grease off of your palm with the bearing. After two to three swipes, you should start seeing grease push up between the roller bearings. Keep pushing grease up through the same spot until you see fresh grease come through. When this happens, rotate the entire bearing so you can start working on the next portion of the bearing. Keep doing this until the entire bearing is packed. This process tends to use a lot more grease than what you think it would, so don't be surprised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T23:33:55.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2014-05-16T12:52:46.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An AC compressor puts a big strain on an engine when it's engaged. This is especially the case with low horse power 4-cylinder engines. What makes matters worse are high mileage engines which are in poor running condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experienced this with a Saab I used to have. I could only run the AC when I was moving at highway speeds. Otherwise it was too much of a strain on the engine and it would make it run roughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a tune up and check the overall condition of the engine. There may be something causing loss of power; low compression, bad spark plugs, clogged fuel or air filter, poor quality gas, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the noise, that's kind of difficult to diagnose here. Your best option is to take it to another mechanic to get an their opinion what it causing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T12:52:46.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-16T13:51:37.393" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 stainless steel cylinders (very thin) that I want to fit together. One has a diameter of 10cm and the other a bit more (around 11cm). I was thinking of sealing them together with an O-ring, but I don't know if they are available in that size. Also it has to be able to withstand up to 300 degrees Celsius. Anyone know what I could use for such a task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wielding them together is not possible because the material is too thin and I don't want to drill holes in them to avoid making them less waterproof (it will contain oil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5068" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T15:14:35.487" Title="Sealing two stainless steel cylinders" Tags="|oil|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9794" CreationDate="2014-05-16T14:39:29.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find an adapter at a hardware store. If you want to make an o-ring, you may want to use silicone, or more precisely: silicone tubing. If you cut a piece off the tubing and roll it up like a condom, you will end up with a nice DIY o-ring. You may also be able to apply silicone to to smaller pipe, pull the larger one over it and allow it to set properly, although I wouldn't trust it if the contents are going to be under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:39:29.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9794" CreationDate="2014-05-16T15:14:35.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use an o-ring, what you are looking for is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007EWZXVS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;O-ring splicing kit&lt;/a&gt;. The kit allows you to form whatever size &quot;O&quot; you need. This kit from Permatex has different sizes (same as most of the kits out there) of cord so you can fill the gap as needed. You'd just need to provide a way to keep the o-ring in place. I would suggest running some kind of scoring around the outside of the inside cylinder (if that makes sense). If it were smaller, like tubing, I'd suggest using a tube cutter to do it, but because the size is much larger, you may be hard pressed to find something that large (10cm ~= 3.9&quot; and 11cm ~= 4.3&quot;). I think they make larger pipe cutters in that size ... it wouldn't take too much to make the score you need (thinking of more of a dent, really). If you don't put something for the o-ring to ride on, it will just push right out from between, if you can get it to stay put when you are fitting the two pieces together, especially if you are trying to contain oil. This is doubly true if there is any pressure involved as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T15:14:35.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2014-05-16T15:41:51.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar problem with my car too. During the 60 000 km check my mehcanic said they had to replace the &quot;AC belt tensioner&quot; because it was in bad condition. It didn't cost too much, worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That 'click' sound after switching on the AC means that the AC clutch engaged and yes, it could be a bit noisy and it cause a strain for low powered cars. It's kinda normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sometimes they 'forgot' to add oil when they fill the AC with gas. When the AC system gets filled is always filled with gas and oil because that oil will grease the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope its helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T15:41:51.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9719" CreationDate="2014-05-16T17:04:50.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine oil leaks (or any other oil for that matter) can cause a smell if drips onto the exhaust.  It wouldn't have to be a large oil leak to cause a noticeable smell, just even the occasional drip.  I have also seen an engine that would have a small leak overnight and would smell first thing in the morning when it was started until the oil burnt off.  Another example which is common is a small oil leak externally on a turbo (may not be applicable in your case) where the oil is likely to get very hot and smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to see an oil leak without being under the car, but check all fluid levels anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also recently seen a Subaru with the inner C.V joint boot on a front driveshaft had torn throwing grease directly onto the Exhaust CAT which caused a bad smell.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5069" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T17:04:50.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2014-05-16T18:38:17.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servicing cars almost every day I would recommend replacing at least the sump plug washer every time you change the oil.  I actually replace the sump plug as well where possible so the next person has a fresh head on the bolt to take off.  Certain sump plugs have allen key heads which can become problematic over time.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local company I get my parts from sells Corteco products. Corteco supply a plug and washer in a pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the exact details of your car but with a quick search on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corteco.com/en/products/online-catalogue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online product catalogue&lt;/a&gt; I found one for the 0.7L model which may also apply to the 1.3L. The part no is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://outcat-cs.tecdoc.net/ows/en/4D595726BD67DBF28CE96CA6B5D2C4EF.ows_cs5553.srv?dlg=CtxCtrDocumentServer&amp;amp;action=GetArticleDocument&amp;amp;docId=1385000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;220122S&lt;/a&gt; and it comes with a choice of two washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5069" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T18:38:17.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9803" CreationDate="2014-05-17T14:26:16.997" Score="3" ViewCount="3117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Honda Oyssey minivan w/ 168,000 miles on it. I get the oil changed twice a year and my next oil change is scheduled for right &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; an up-coming road trip. Is there any reason to do the oil change &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the road trip, instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*road trip will be ~2300 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3352" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T16:48:48.227" Title="Should I get the oil changed before or after a road trip?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2014-05-17T14:26:55.580" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all remedies fail check the wheel rim for dents and have it repaired, sometimes heat and hammer does it in a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5074" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T14:26:55.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9801" CreationDate="2014-05-17T16:48:48.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it meets with your normal maintenance, I'd get it changed right after, but remember that even though the trip will be 2300 miles there and back, you'll still have running around mileage as well. We put over 6000 miles on our car for a road trip we took several years ago, and that was with a one way distance of 1800 miles to get to our destination. If you are expecting mileage like this, I'd get it changed before hand and then start your maintenance schedule at that point. Highway miles are easier on your vehicle than stop and go, but they all take their toll. Make sure which ever way you go, you do a thorough check of all fluids prior to leaving, to include oil, transmission (Odessy's are known for transmission problems), coolant, windshield washer fluid, and whatever else you can think of. For anyone's edification who may be wondering, the normal oil change interval for a Honda vehicle is every 7500 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T16:48:48.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2014-05-17T23:13:27.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've rebuilt a lot of scrap yard engines and those just needed refreshing . I found if you could start them , add about a quart or so of kerosene and bring them up to operating temp run 5 min and dump while oil is hot worked best for me. It will even brake up hardened sludge from overheating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5076" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T23:13:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2014-05-17T23:17:18.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try spraying mixture of dish soap and water to find the leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5076" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T23:17:18.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T02:10:18.830" Score="5" ViewCount="34199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of rebuilding the 5.4L engine out of my 1999 Ford F250.  I'm going to replace the pistons (and rings) because the black (teflon?) coating on the piston skirts is worn off and there is some grooving on the pistons that I can feel with my fingernail.  Since I am replacing the piston and rings I will at least hone the cylinders.  The cylinders themselves look good, I can see the factory crosshatching.  I think the measurements might be telling me a different story, but I'm having a hard time understanding the specs in the Ford factory manual.  The only specs I see related to the cylinder bore are as follows, and I don't really understand what the different grades mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder bore diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grade 1 90.200mm - 90.210mm (3.55118in - 3.5515748in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grade 2 90.210mm - 90.220mm (3.55118in  - 3.5519685in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grade 3 90.220mm - 90.230mm (3.5519685in - 3.5523622in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally I would expect to see a taper and out of round spec, but I don't.  So the question is, with the measurements I have provided do I need to bore my cylinders and get over sized pistons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLQ0I.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spec is 3.5520 (I think), but that doesn't match what the manual says.  The differences in measurements is what really matters at this point though.  I highlighted all measurements that were not exactly the spec.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o64V7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastEditorUserId="392" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T02:15:33.627" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T02:20:49.627" Title="Should bore my cylinder or just hone them?" Tags="|engine|ford|f-250|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T02:59:02.000" Score="6" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW E46 Android head unit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a head unit, that I want to have constant power through ACC. Basically, it's an android tablet customized for my car, but the manufacturer (unbranded Chinese) did not take into account that android tablets are actually never supposed to be fully powered down. Therefore, I'm well down the road before the unit is ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I wire the ACC to always have power? Is it as simple as jumping the yellow and red wires like I do when I run my unit off of a PC power supply? I just want to make sure that is safe for the car, I know that might sound a bit stupid. Car wiring is foreign to me and I want to make sure I know all of the dangers before I fry a very expensive competent in my very expensive to maintain German vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think I already know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that by constantly leaving the radio powered it will drain the battery, Having done some tests on the bench; I think this will be negligible as I am able to put the device into a hibernate state. If draining the battery is the big risk then I'm not too concerned about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5077" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T14:57:55.350" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:36:56.890" Title="Adding audio accessories that are always powered (independently of ACC)" Tags="|bmw|wiring|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T20:50:16.730" Score="4" ViewCount="2229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tap wrenches are designed like this one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZH5Lw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tap wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with this design the bolt always untightens wile using the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't it designed like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgZ17.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T21:16:26.603" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T23:59:49.217" Title="Why do tap wrenches have a four cornered shaft and get fastened by a bolt?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T20:52:55.470" Score="3" ViewCount="22443" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2008 Honda CR-V radio antenna mast has been snapped off (either vandalism or the car wash).  The result is the bottom portion of the machine screw lodged in the cap on the roof of the car where the antenna mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only noticed that the antenna was actually broken off when I went to screw in a replacement one.  There isn't any thread left to screw a new one into, yet there isn't any of the old screw sticking out enough to remove it from the mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to extract the remaining piece of the old antenna so I can replace the mast?  Or is it best to try to replace the whole mount assembly (this seems overkill)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was Loctite used to secure the OEM antenna?  If not, then maybe &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9358/5082&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; method might be best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5082" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T18:26:17.037" Title="Best way to repair/replace broken-off CR-V antenna?" Tags="|honda|screw|crv|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2014-05-18T21:21:14.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like sockets, taps come in a manner of different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if a standard size was used for the square end of the shaft it would limit the tap's insertability if too big, or risk over-torquing if too small. To avoid these potential issues, it is better to make the size of the square end conform to the diameter of the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explains why the tap wrench pictured is adjustable. What it doesn't explain is why the wrench loosens itself during use. I have a similar low-quality tap wrench and have found some success with a couple of techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrap the end of the tap bit with some rubber tubing to help the square jaw &quot;bite&quot; into the bit and stay in its place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid manipulating the handles and use the main body of the tap wrench to turn the tap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-tighten the adjustable handle every now and again (though this is far from ideal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the better solution would be to get a tap wrench with higher build quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T21:27:26.373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T21:27:26.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9806" CreationDate="2014-05-18T21:27:05.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are having to replace the pistons anyway, &lt;strong&gt;get the block bored&lt;/strong&gt; (as long as it's an iron block, which is an assumption on my part). Not only will this give you more displacement (which will equate to more torque for your truck), but will ensure you have perfectly round cylinders as well, as well as symmetrical top to bottom. It will also save you in the long run if &quot;just honing&quot; is not going to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process needs to be done in conjunction with your machine shop. A good machine shop will be able to tell you what is best for your specific block, what costs to expect, and which way to go with parts, etc. Working with your machine shop will produce the best results. Also, when they do the honing, ensure they use a torque plate during the final honing process. This ensures the cylinders will be right when you bolt the heads back onto the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T21:27:05.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9827" CreationDate="2014-05-18T23:52:32.060" Score="3" ViewCount="120966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what it the lowest tire pressure you could put on a maximum rate 44psi tire? I have been placing 33- 34 psi on these tires for about half a year now, will it damage my tires? I'm planning to put 36psi to it to make it near the rated maximum limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T23:06:42.460" Title="lowest tire pressure for a 44psi tire" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2014-05-18T23:59:49.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest reason most tap handles look like your first picture and not like the second picture is pure and simple: control. The small ratchet head like you are showing in the second picture would not give the user any kind of stability as you try to turn it, mind you it might work okay for chasing threads, but definitely not good for trying to cut new one. Secondarily you have torque to consider. To cut new threads in steel or iron takes a good amount of torque. You couldn't even get 10% of the torque out of the smaller one than you can out of the larger T-handle you have shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the version you have shown is the most common for larger sized taps. You can see what is used for the smaller ones in the bottom right hand corner of this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCAbn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a Snap-On set, you can imagine this is not &quot;lower quality&quot;. You can also see it uses the same screw handle design as you showed in your picture. I understand your annoyance with them becoming loose, but would suggest two simple techniques to keep it tight during use. One, after every turn (or partial turn) tighten the handle. Two, keep tightening torque on the handle at all times while you're using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not perfect, but should serve you well to keep it from jumping off of the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T23:59:49.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9815" CreationDate="2014-05-19T04:41:06.587" Score="1" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just experienced having a tire explosion yesterday. I was running at around 60mph and suddenly my rear right tire blew. I was go up a bridge and as it blew, there was brown smoke and I might have ran to around 50m before coming to a full stop. when I got out, I checked the tire and the rim, but the rim seems to be fine. I am concerned about what ever damages it might have done to the other parts(suspension,brakes, axles, etc). How do I check it personally before I bring it to my mechanic so at least I have an idea if there is something damaged?(I'm bringing it to my mechanic for a power steering repair, which is a different issue, and the mechanic does not specialize in suspensions and wheels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T11:47:08.990" Title="check vehicular damage on tire bursts" Tags="|tires|suspension|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9814" CreationDate="2014-05-19T11:47:08.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that there was any sort of shrapnel damage to the vehicle from a blown tire.  It's more likely that the shredding tire whacked the vehicle a few times as it rotated to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect to see cosmetic damage around the bumped and underbody: e.g., rubber streaks and dents.  You might find bits of rubber jammed up underneath suspension bits.  You'll also likely see damage to the rim if it was supporting the weight of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, unless the tire completely delaminated and turned into a road gator, a blown tire is scary but doesn't damage the vehicle per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T11:47:08.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9817" CreationDate="2014-05-19T18:17:02.360" Score="4" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of buying an ebay bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121337863485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121337863485&lt;/a&gt;) which I won for maybe 60 - 75 % of its expected value. In the description the owner states that the bike &lt;em&gt;dyno'd&lt;/em&gt; 10,000 miles ago. I don't know what that means but it sounds bloody scary. Can anyone shed some light on what this means mechanically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T18:23:23.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T18:12:48.230" Title="What does &quot;the bike dyno'd at 125BHP at the rear wheel&quot; mean?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9816" CreationDate="2014-05-19T18:36:07.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, it sounds like they put the bike on a chasis dynomometer (or &quot;dyno&quot;) which was made to run motorcycles. This dyno was used to measure the power output of the bike at the rear wheel. What happens is, the rear wheel of the motorcycle engages a large roller on the dyno. The bike is then strapped down so it won't go anywhere. The engine is started, the bike is put into gear, and is then ran up to speed. When brought up to speed, the dyno is engaged, which puts a measureable load on the roller. The tester will then throttle the bike up to wide open throttle (WOT) to get a reading on what the bike is capable of as far as output. The reading is taken and you have your rear wheel horsepower of the bike. For a bike, 125hp is quite a bit of HP (I'm thinking Hyabusa here ...). And unless it's obvious to you, the owner has riden the bike 10k miles since he did the dyno run on the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynojet.com/Products/Dynamometers/DynoModel200i/Dynojet-dynamometer-200i.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;motorcycle dyno&lt;/a&gt; made by Dynojet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wondering about how Torque and HorsePower relate to each other, I wrote &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4411/does-torque-decrease-mathematically/9228#9228&quot;&gt;this diatribe&lt;/a&gt; a while back which may give you some understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I did want to add that the &quot;B&quot; in your &quot;125BHP&quot; refers to &quot;brake horse power&quot;. This is kind of an antiquated term, but refers to the brake action used to measure the output, with the output given being before the power losses caused by gearbox, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, A/C, etc. BHP is a very inaccurate measurement of the HP output of an engine. More commonly used now is the term Rear Wheel Horse Power (or Front Wheel Horse Power if a FWD vehicle). This is the power output (which is actually what was being measured on your bike) measured where the rubber meets the road and is a more accurate measure of what the vehicle's capability will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T18:12:48.230" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9835" CreationDate="2014-05-19T22:56:47.040" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;New tire started leaking air just to find out that the tire is alright and the air taking pin is also fine. the rim is cracked from inside. I've no clue how that can happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my mechanic is asking me to replace that whole thing which costs about 800 bucks :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone not weld that thing? Is it something that I can approach/ask around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1322" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T23:02:37.993" Title="BMW 330Xi tire rim broken" Tags="|tires|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9591" CreationDate="2014-05-20T11:59:36.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the radio from the car and was able to finally determine the satellite control is integrated into the radio unit. On the unit itself is a tag with the ID #. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, once all connections were reseated, I still have the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="4939" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T12:40:34.243" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T12:40:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9823" CreationDate="2014-05-20T15:14:16.427" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've noticed that my 2012 Nissan Frontier (Automatic Transmission) is squeaking when I start driving from a complete stop. It will only squeak 3-4 times and will go away once I've gained some speed (15 km/h). It's fairly loud so I assume that it's coming from the front of the vehicle. This happens at all stop signs, red lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to give my dealership a call, but would appreciate having some knowledge of what it might be before I do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what the issue could be would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1192" LastEditorUserId="1192" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T15:47:23.620" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T15:14:14.757" Title="Vehicle squeaking 3-4 times when beginning to drive. Stops after getting some speed" Tags="|brakes|automatic-transmission|noise|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9822" CreationDate="2014-05-20T15:34:58.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would venture to assume it is your brakes which are talking to you. I bet the &quot;squealer&quot; is close enough to engage the rotor at certain points. Once the vehicle speed is fast enough it will not make the noise, or is covered up by road noise. I doubt, from your description, it has anything to do with the transmission itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T17:13:42.977" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T17:13:42.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2014-05-20T17:56:06.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Katana that was having the same problem. It would cut out at the stop light or wouldn't start at times. I checked plugs, wires, and fuel. It turned out to be just a defective battery. Now she runs like brand new! PS: Get the expensive battery with high amperage because Katana's are picky when it comes to the power supply. Duralast batteries are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T20:37:32.837" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T20:37:32.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9837" CreationDate="2014-05-20T18:43:19.100" Score="4" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a '98 Benz ml320 and two days later it cut off on me, twice, within about 5 minutes. I took it for a diagnostic. I'm wondering how overpriced this estimate is and possible ideas of best course of action at this point. To that end, no I don't have a warranty, and I'm not yet sure if return is a possibility (currently in discussion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The returned codes:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;170 - Fuel trim malfunction (bank1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;173 - Fuel trim malfunction (bank2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;460 - Fuel level sensor malfunction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;300 - rand misfire of cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;301 - misfire cyl 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;303 - misfire cyl 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;305 - misfire cyl 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;306 - misfire cyl 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The estimate: [&lt;em&gt;US Dollars $&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;engine assembly &amp;amp; parts&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;timing chain: &lt;em&gt;414.99&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slides: &lt;em&gt;92.99&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;labor: &lt;em&gt;544.00&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;engine sensors&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manifold absolute pressure sensor: &lt;em&gt;319.99&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;labor: &lt;em&gt;68.00&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;engine sensors&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electronic control unit &lt;em&gt;1600.00&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;labor: &lt;em&gt;68.00&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I'm being told:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing chain is the main issue, but just replacing it isn't enough. if the ECU is bad, then it will continue to misfire and lead to more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I've researched on my own:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure i'm looking up exactly the correct one, as I've yet to find exactly where, on the vehicle, the &quot;ECU&quot; in question is, but the used ones I've found online all cost less than 200. I &quot;think I&quot; know from having worked on car electronics before, it may still need to be synchronized with the vehicle, but I know this labor isn't hard to find on YouTube. I'm mainly short on tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also checked the codes and forums, as well as here, for information about there errors and so far it looks like it could be as simple as replacing spark plugs, to as complicated as this estimate or something as simple as replacing gaskets (which i still don't have tools for, unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my problem here is, is this my best estimate, or could this be fixed for much cheaper. How much am I being ripped off? And being as I'm short on tools, even if I figure out how to fix the problem myself, can any of you mechanics tell me how I might convince an auto shop to do only the repairs i request and not try and screw me into more costly repairs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;h1&gt;Update!&lt;/h1&gt; &lt;em&gt;5/22/14 [&lt;sub&gt;2 days since estimate&lt;/sub&gt;]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to include as much detail as possible and keep everything in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in FL and yesterday the average temp was about 80°F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had worked about 9 hours, left work around 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My work is about an 1/8mi from the interstate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I left work and got on the Interstate, all seemed fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 5mi down the interstate, my speed starte dropping from 75mph to about 65&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I couldn't get more than 65&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I pressed the gas peddle more&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at first, it felt like it was in the wrong gear, a couple times, the RPMs even went up, but no increase in speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most of the time, pressing the peddle to the floor resulted in both a loss of speed and a loss of &quot;power&quot; (RPMs dropped out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping the gas about half pushed in kept me at around 65, but I couldn't go faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I finally pulled over and sat about 30 seconds, the vehicle sputtered like it would cut off and sat around 500RPMs, but would not cut off, so i turned it off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After about a 30 seconds or so wait, I crunk it back up. It sounded fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started to go and everything felt fine, till i got up to 70&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;@ about 70+mph, I got a complete repeat of the numbered steps listed before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, I pulled over and cut it off. This time I let it sit about 2 minutes, and tried again ... worked fine all the way home (about a 30 minute drive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I got up, turned it on, took son to school and came to work, 0 issues. Could heat be impacting the issue somehow? If so, what about my estimate maybe misleading and what should I &lt;strong&gt;FIRST&lt;/strong&gt; look at to fix this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ALSO!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I should mention, this vehicle has a &quot;Low Range&quot; option, that I guess is meant for &quot;off-road&quot;. The light comes on every time I turn it on and I usually have to push the button a couple times to make it go off. Could it be possible this is being &quot;stuck on&quot; even tho the light is off? The &quot;wrong gear feeling&quot; and &quot;loss of power&quot; is why I ask. Is it possibly related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and I had refilled the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gas&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; tank yesterday morning. I &lt;em&gt;never let any vehicle I drive drop below half a tank&lt;/em&gt; unless it's an emergency or a long road trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/675/zaid&quot;&gt;Zaid&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9825/is-this-repair-estimate-for-misfiring-and-fuel-trim-on-a-98-mercedes-reasonable#9837&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer below&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; was very helpful! In the end, simply replacing the MAF sensor was all that was needed to kill the initial problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T20:01:21.730" Title="Is this repair estimate for misfiring and fuel trim on a '98 Mercedes reasonable?" Tags="|electrical|mercedes-benz|sensor|timing-belt|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9812" CreationDate="2014-05-20T19:53:58.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure is typically determined by vehicle weight and type of tire. In other words, the 44 psi you refer to is the maximum inflation of the the tire at its maximum load rating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can safely inflate the tires to the maximum pressure, but it may not give you the best ride or performance. Each vehicle has a specified pressure/load rating on a placard in the door jam area. It may look something like this;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2928v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've not given us information about the type of tire or the vehicle, I will say to use a pressure 10% to 15% under the maximum psi rating to get the best performance of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a guess and you will have to do a little research yourself depending on the brand tire and type of vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T19:53:58.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9774" CreationDate="2014-05-21T01:28:04.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing you might check is for radio frequency interference to the TPMS from a Bluetooth-equipped device in use in the vehicle.  I personally encountered this situation when using my iPad w/Bluetooth in my 2009 Hyundai Sonata Limited turned on in order to 'wirelessly' transmit audio from podcast app playback to a little Bluetooth receiver which fits in the cigarette lighter power socket (and in turn from there over a short audio cable to my radio's nearby AUX input).  Whenever I would use this setup, more often than not my TPMS indicator lamp on the dash instrument cluster would light up.  Turning off the Bluetooth transmissions from the iPad would &quot;fix&quot; the problem.  Googling on the topic reveals that others have encountered a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2790" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:28:04.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2014-05-21T16:20:36.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It matters, but how much it matters varies from vehicle to vehicle. TireRack has an article about this topic -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matching Tires on Four-Wheel Drive and All-Wheel Drive Vehicles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Manufacture Specific info from the end of the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here are recommendations from some of the manufactures that Tire Rack currently serves for matching the tires used on their four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. Additional recommendations from other Original Equipment Vehicle Manufacturers is pending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Audi: As published in their vehicle owner's manual, &quot;rolling radius of all 4 tires must remain the same&quot; or within 4/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Porsche Cayenne: within 30% of the other tire on the same axle's remaining treadwear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Subaru: Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately they don't have any info specific to Ford so you should definitely call Ford &amp;amp; get their take or check your owners manual and see if it is in there (like it is for Audi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5098" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T16:20:36.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-21T19:39:25.730" Score="4" ViewCount="6260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 2.4L 4cyl Mitsubishi Galant with the error code to replace the camshaft position sensor. The car is having starting issues common with a faulty cam sensor. I know where the sensor is, and should be able to replace it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just begun to do my own car repairs, and I am wondering how important it is that for a camshaft position sensor, I choose the OEM part instead of a much cheaper &quot;replacement&quot; or knockoff? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, this is not a &quot;please link me&quot; shopping question, this is asking about the legitimacy of using non-OEM/aftermarket cam sensors and if it is something that one should ever consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5100" LastEditorUserId="5100" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T17:59:08.957" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T17:49:27.827" Title="OK to use non-OEM/aftermarket camshaft position sensor?" Tags="|starting|ignition|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9832" CreationDate="2014-05-21T20:17:48.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this question can raise differing opinions the very basic answer is yes you can use non OEM parts. In some cases they offer better warranties than the OEM brand. Aftermarket parts are in general made to the same specifications as the OEM part. You do want to be careful with your sources of aftermarket parts. Buy only parts from reputable suppliers. If a web based search of a particular brand reveals they don't have a website or only a single distributor I would be suspicious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T20:17:48.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9819" CreationDate="2014-05-21T23:02:37.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I researched and found that its not good to weld the rim as it tends to break pretty easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went ahead and ordered one from hubcaphaven. Seems like nice guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1322" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T23:02:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2014-05-22T04:29:04.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Barina has two different flashers (relays) one for each side that are installed behind the batter compartment in the most inaccessible place possible.&#xA;One of these relays was broken. Had to buy another one and replace it and they are all working now.&#xA;The clicking noise is done by some other component from what I see as it was clicking nicely and even the lights on the dashboard were blinking correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4797" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T04:29:04.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9825" CreationDate="2014-05-22T07:02:37.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little concerned by the proposed fixes. While I don't know the specifics of your Merc, I find it odd that the timing chain would be responsible for fuel trim codes. The ECU swap seems to be a concerted attempt at what I like to call 'parts roulette': possible, but not probable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have codes for fuel trims and misfires, the principal components that impact the fuel management system should be the first port of call. By the sound of things you have a lean AFR (air-to-fuel ratio). This could be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;underestimation of the air mass flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to an under-reading MAF sensor. These sensors tend to foul over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Remedy&lt;/em&gt;: clean or replace the MAF's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;insufficient fuel delivery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lack of fuel flow could be down to a failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel injectors. Further inspection and tests could be conducted to help pinpoint the root cause in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Remedy&lt;/em&gt;: Replace if fuel pump or fuel filter. Clogged injectors &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be treated with fuel injection cleaner and/or ultrasonic cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;underestimation of the AFR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oxygen/lambda probes are falsely sensing a rich AFR, the fuel timing will be reduced, resulting in a lean AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Remedy&lt;/em&gt;: Replace the offending oxygen sensor(s).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T20:01:21.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T20:01:21.730" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9839" CreationDate="2014-05-22T10:11:14.297" Score="12" ViewCount="3589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it bizarre that the automotive industry has standardized the use of the OBDII protocol,  yet most cars require make-specific cables in order to access the complete set of diagnostics and utilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VWs require a VAG-COM cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMWs need INPA/EDIABAS-compatible cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volvos require VADIS-compatible cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand the software being different across different makes. But given that all cables hook up to the OBDII port, why do they need to be custom? What is lacking in a generic OBDII cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T03:52:15.717" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T03:52:15.717" Title="Why do we need make-specific cables to read car ECUs?" Tags="|obd-ii|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9838" CreationDate="2014-05-22T12:35:56.417" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;cable&lt;/em&gt; is more than just a cable, it has a microcontroller that handles the car's diagnostic protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software on your computer talks to the cable with a proprietary protocol specific to the cable's manufacturer, and the cable itself translates that to the car's protocol equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually wondered why we can't have a single cable for all cars and handle the car's protocol on the computer directly (the cable being a simple converter that relays frames received on the car side to the computer's side and vice-versa), and here's a reply I got from Ross-Tech (the VCDS developer) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A &quot;dumb&quot; network to K or CAN converter is not a practical device; diagnostic protocols are too demanding of real-time responses from he device that's interrogating them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the latency induced by having the CAN packet going to the computer, being processed there and going back is too much, that's why it's needed to handle the car protocol directly on the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Implementing OBD-II is simple and that protocol is standard and most likely open. Implementing manufacturer-specific protocols is hard because there is very little documentation about them and the only way to know that protocol is to reverse-engineer the firmwares of the ECUs or to capture the communication between the car and the manufacturer's official diagnostic device. So it is hard, time-consuming and expensive to do that for the protocol used by each manufacturer, and then implement all of that directly on the cable's microcontroller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, &lt;a href=&quot;http://multidiag.actia.com/en/solutions-multi-diag-2/multi-diag-cars&quot;&gt;there are&lt;/a&gt; universal cables, they're just extremely expensive (most likely for the reasons I mentioned above) and I doubt they have all the features that the manufacturer-specific tools have (it's not only about the diagnostic, the cables you mentioned can configure the car, for example add new keys or tweak the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2428776-MKV-Steering-Assist-adjustment-with-Vag-Com&amp;amp;s=bc0bea148d95071726ec8a5f823003cf&amp;amp;p=26670697&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post26670697&quot;&gt;steering assist&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T12:35:56.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9838" CreationDate="2014-05-22T16:29:24.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 6 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_diagnostic_connector&quot;&gt;pins in the OBD-II connector&lt;/a&gt; which the manufacturers can use at their discretion.  In modern vehicles there are usually 2 or more communication buses. Only one bus is for engine and emissions, which is connected to the standard diagnostic pins on the OBD-II connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer typically connects another bus to the OBD-II connector with the &quot;manufacturer discretion&quot; pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vehicle diagnostics computer will only get engine, emissions, and a few other systems worth of information from the standard pinout, but with a cable and additional hardware the diagnostic computer can access the secondary (or even a third bus) as well and obtain/modify information affecting several other systems in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each manufacturer uses these pins differently, though, so while it's possible to build a cable that can handle every known pinout, it doesn't account for changes in the future, and it's more expensive than simply having several cables that work with different manufacturers and lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T16:29:24.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-22T18:16:42.833" Score="7" ViewCount="3673" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I go to get my wheels changed and balanced and I leave with the driver side rim heating up unnaturally even after driving just a few miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car stops unusually quickly. It's quite clear that the brake pads are clutching/seizing on the rotor—even when I'm not pressing the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;em&gt;What could have gone wrong?&lt;/em&gt; I'm suspecting they messed something up. Would, for example, tightening the bolts far too much lead to pushing the brake pads against the rotor? I see no (brake fluid) leakage, nor any other symptoms, except that they also did a lousy job at balancing the wheels: The steering wheel wobbles starting from 30mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's disappointing that no one recommended not driving the car, or driving it minimally, until the problem is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now know that if one continues to drive the car—even for just 50km, the rotor in question will heat up to the point where it will no longer be guaranteed that it is perfectly planar. A simple job of replacing the brake pads and resetting the fluid becomes an expensive replacement of the rotor, the calipers, and the tube leading to the calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="5109" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T16:27:22.557" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T16:27:22.557" Title="Wheel change/balance leading to continuous braking" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|steering-wheel|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9845" CreationDate="2014-05-23T00:36:48.583" Score="5" ViewCount="3133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a light-duty trailer that has sat in my driveway for too long. Both tires have rotted and I need to replace them. Unfortunately the lug nuts are rusted and don't want to come off for love or money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of torque is not the problem here. I have a lovely piece of pipe that slips over my tire iron, giving me a couple extra feet of leverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is lack of friction: attempting to turn the nuts merely spins the wheel under the relatively low weight of the trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas how to attack these stuck nuts? I have a propane torch at my disposal. Would this help? Is it safe to use on trailer wheels? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5112" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T01:18:38.937" Title="Stuck Lug Nuts on Trailer" Tags="|wheels|rust|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-04-19T17:10:29.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9844" CreationDate="2014-05-23T01:18:38.937" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First is to soak them with a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Sea Foam. If you have access to an impact wrench, electric might work but pneumatics tend to have more torque. If you don't own one consider renting one or purchasing one from a store with a liberal return policy. If that is out of the question slide a pipe, crow bar, large screw driver or similar device into a slot on the wheel and let it hit the frame while breaking the nuts loose. If it has serviceable wheel bearings and all else failed you can remove the bearing/spindle nut and take the wheel and hub to a garage and see if their impact tools can remove the lug nuts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T01:18:38.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9848" CreationDate="2014-05-23T01:43:04.107" Score="3" ViewCount="1727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Apollo brand 12 Volt Cooler/Warmer, designed to plug in to my car's 12 V cigarette lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if the power this device uses will significantly affect my car's performance or gas mileage. I have a 2010 VW Jetta 2.5 liter gasoline car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transformer for the 100-240 V AC connection (another option for running the device) says it is designed to output 4 A at 12 V DC.  Since &lt;code&gt;power = current x voltage&lt;/code&gt;, the transformer will output 48 W of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transformer also says that it takes 60 W of power for the input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5114" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T08:49:18.340" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T21:08:14.607" Title="Will a 12 V cooler box significantly affect the performance/gas mileage of my car?" Tags="|battery|fuel-consumption|power|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-23T02:00:09.063" Score="3" ViewCount="5384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevy Malibu '05 4 cly 2.2l  that cranks but does not start.  I already put starting fluid in the intake and it started up and died real quick, which tells me there is spark but no fuel. Does anyone know what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also changed out the run/crank relay and it started and stalled again. I will be checking fuel pressure tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5115" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T08:49:22.983" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T22:26:10.657" Title="Chevy Malibu 05 cranks but does not start" Tags="|malibu|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9846" CreationDate="2014-05-23T04:18:47.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not notice any difference. Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 hp = 746 W&lt;/code&gt;. This means that 60 W is &lt;strong&gt;0.08 hp&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst possible scenario from a load perspective is at idle. Assuming the engine is outputting a measly 5 hp at idle, the extra load would work out to 1.6 % of this value. The change in fuel consumption is barely sensible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T04:18:47.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9852" CreationDate="2014-05-23T14:07:48.577" Score="4" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone through several cans of brake cleaner lately and need to get rid of the used cans. The cans don't seem to indicate any special instructions for disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from depressurizing the cans as much as possible, are there any other steps necessary to safely dispose of them in a responsible manner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that I am not aware of any special disposal requirements imposed by my local municipality, so these will most likely end up in the general rubbish tip regardless of who disposes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T11:46:12.637" Title="How do I responsibly dispose of empty aerosol cans?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9843" CreationDate="2014-05-23T14:18:37.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Recommendation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than second-guess the cause, I would recommend that you take it back to the tire shop and explain to them what you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If you'd rather not...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly something is binding in the brakes and the most obvious thing to do is to remove the wheel and inspect for any kind of obstruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T14:18:37.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2014-05-23T16:26:19.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I would do is check the fuel pressure it should be between 50 - 60 psi. Unless you have a scan tool to command the fuel pump on then this should be done while cranking the engine. The computer commands the fuel pump on for 2 seconds when you turn on the key, and turns it off unless it sees a ignition reference pulses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is take off the fuel cap and put you ear near the opening have someone turn on the ignition while you are listening and you should hear the fuel pump come on for the 2 seconds, make sure the key is off for at least 30 seconds before turning it on. If you don't hear it come on at all then you need to make sure it's getting power and ground. Comment on this answer after you have tried that and I can give you more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T16:26:19.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9849" CreationDate="2014-05-23T19:58:19.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite easily, just throw them away in your normal trash. If the ingredients or can were bad for the environment, they would not be allowed to be used in the first place. I would suggest using all of the contents first, but there should be no issue with throwing them directly in the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T19:58:19.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-23T22:20:23.047" Score="2" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diameter of the original power steering pump pulley wheel on my 2004 Mercedes ML 350 is approximately 110 mm. The diameter of many replacements is 130 mm. Will the original serpentine belt still fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T13:14:33.993" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T13:14:33.993" Title="Power steering pulley wheel" Tags="|power-steering|pulley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-24T03:54:48.653" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on buying a used vehicle privately.  But it needs a bit of work before it will pass a safety check.  Nothing major, but cash is tight and I may have to wait a few weeks before I can do the repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time, I want to put my current car up for sale, and keep driving it until either someone buys it (in which case I can fix the newer one right away) or I have the new one ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the whole process of transfering ownership, insurance, getting the safety test, and still driving my old car is confusing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I transfer the ownership right away, the car becomes unfit.  Then I have to have it towed to the mechanic to do the safety test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper order of fixing the car, transfering ownership, transfering insurance from my old car to newer one, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5124" LastEditorUserId="5124" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T13:21:34.237" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T13:21:34.237" Title="Buying a used car in Ontario - safety certificate" Tags="|used|buying|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T06:30:28.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2014-05-24T05:33:32.120" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the fuel pump  .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it was detective already..&#xA;..cause had just changed it out 2 months ago&#xA;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So make sure you get warranty on your parts you purchase..&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5117" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T05:33:32.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9854" CreationDate="2014-05-24T12:45:13.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my calculations are correct and my SWAG (silly wild @$$ guess) of how much your ML350's belt contacts the power steering pump pulley, &lt;strong&gt;you will need a belt which is ~15.75mm longer (or 1.5cm)&lt;/strong&gt; than what you have now. Here is my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; represent your serpentine belt configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrVXN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ML350 Serpentine Belt Layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulley #4 is the power steering pump. You can see the belt covers about 1/4 of the circumference. The original pulley, being 110mm in diameter has a circumference of ~345.5mm, while the newer one with a diameter of 130mm would have a circumference of ~408.4mm. The difference is ~62.9mm. 1/4 of that (distance the belt actually rides on the pulley) is ~15.725mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you'll need to get a longer belt in the first place is that the belt tensioner is designed to operate in a given arc. If your belt is too short (as would be your original), the tensioner will be too tight and will wear out sooner. This also puts more stress on all other pulley components which the belt rides on. If the belt is too long, the tensioner will not provide &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; tension and will allow the belt to slip across the accessory pulleys. Does this &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; mean your current belt will not work? By all means no: it probably would work. In your case, you will probably be wearing out expensive components much faster than would be normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure on your MB, but most tensioner pulleys have an indicator on them which shows belt health. It might have a pointer which, when the belt is appropriately installed, show you if it is in it's proper range. If it does not have one of these (which I'm not seeing in the pictures I've just looked at), you can scribe your own line across the two portions of the tensioner pulley (base where it attaches to the engine and arm which has the pulley on it). When you install the new belt, the two lines should be very close to lining up, if not completely, when everything is put back together. If you are doing this work yourself, it appears you'll need a retaining pin to hold the tensioner pulley in place, as seen in this picture from RockAuto.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWSiT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T12:45:13.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9860" CreationDate="2014-05-24T14:09:39.393" Score="4" ViewCount="15530" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front right wheel was roaring over 55 mph. When spinning the wheel by hand it made a purring sound. I pulled it apart. The inner bearing looked normal. The outer bearing was rusty (grease had turned brown) and the rollers &amp;amp; inner surface were all chewed up looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer race was rusty. I beat out the races from the rotor. It burred the inside of the rotor, so I ground down the burrs I made with a die grinder. Is this OK to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cleaned the grease off the spindle, it has a bunch of marks on it like the inside of the bearings were rotating on it. Should I replace the spindle? The bearings were only $15, so I'm not concerned about destroying a set of bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photographs:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugETq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugETq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZFJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZFJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVtBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVtBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTFfz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTFfz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastEditorUserId="4616" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T13:20:47.577" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T01:30:54.750" Title="2001 F150 4.6L 2WD front wheel bearing replacement" Tags="|wheels|bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9858" CreationDate="2014-05-24T15:02:39.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no way to fix what ails your Ford here. You'll need to replace the spindle, hub, and I believe rotor as well (it appears the hub and rotor are one piece - is this correct?). There is no way to salvage this with out taking it to a machine shop, unless you have some mad machining skills (which I assume you don't, or you'd know the answer to this already). You can probably pick up the spindle as a used part at a junk yard, or scour the F150 forums for a part-out like your truck. The new bearings within a short period of time will start spinning in the same locations as these are. Save your new bearings and buy the parts you need to fix this right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't forget you'll need your front end alignment done when you get the new spindle and hub in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T18:07:41.147" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:07:41.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9864" CreationDate="2014-05-24T16:53:48.260" Score="0" ViewCount="1929" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to imagine injecting spray of fuels at several thousands rpm. How is it possible to pump liquid fuel at such high frequency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4092" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:02:18.377" Title="Fuel injection mechanism" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-injection|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2014-05-24T18:02:18.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a four cycle (four stroke) engine with sequential port fuel injection, the fuel injectors fire at 1/2 the rate of the RPM (ie: 3000 rpm engine speed equates to 1500 injector pulses per  minute), which just happens to be the same speed at which the spark plug for a single cylinder fires. Four factors allow the injector to operate at this speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is, electricity moves at the speed of light. This gives the injector an advantage over the speed of the engine. When designing the injector, the engineer needs to think about the harmonics of the injector. This means the injector must be able to close fast enough to completely shut off the flow of fuel at the maximum speed at which it is meant to operate. This is done by putting in the right size and weight of spring. To open it, an electromagnet is used. This can move a hunk of metal, while not at the speed of light, very fast. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) will tell the injector to stay open for a period of time (called the &lt;em&gt;pulse width&lt;/em&gt;), which in conjunction with the next two factors, allows the proper amount of fuel to enter with consideration to the operating needs of the engine (speed, load, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of this equation is the orifice size of the injector. This allows a certain amount of fuel to be injected at any given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third part is the pressure at which the fuel is introduced into the system. If all else stays the same (pulse width, injector size, etc.), as you increase the fuel pressure, the amount of fuel which passes through the injector increases. For instance (and these are arbitrary numbers), if a fuel system is under 30psi pressure and an injector is rated at 30 pounds per hour rate, if you increase the pressure to 45psi (1.5 times the normal pressure), you could expect to see a rate of 45 pounds per hour come out of the injector. There is a point at which this will become moot, as a given orifice can only flow so much fuel, but that is another story. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth part of our tale is this: it really doesn't take much fuel to run an individual cylinder of an engine. If a small four cylinder engine gets 40mpg, how many actual revolutions of the engine does it take to get it down the road? Let's break down the math. Let's assume our small make believe car running down the road at 60mph does so with an engine speed of 2000 rpm. The 60mph equates to one mile every minute. So every mile you travel, your injector is only firing 1000 times, or almost 17 times per second. This really isn't all that fast, when you consider most motion pictures run at 24 frames per second and the eye can see at a frequency of ~60Hz. What does all this mean? The injector does not need to be open for very long nor does it even need to be opened very far to allow enough fuel to get into the cylinder to allow it to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T18:02:18.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9870" CreationDate="2014-05-24T22:51:28.010" Score="3" ViewCount="62094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vehicle that is not currently running from which I am pulling the engine. To do so, I need to remove the A/C compressor and condensor, but it is currently charged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have borrowed an A/C manifold gauge set and an A/C vacuum pump from AutoZone. I thought I could use this not just to put a vacuum on the system later when I swap to a different vehicle, but to evacuate the R134a refrigerant currently in the system. However, the instructions for the vacuum pump say not to run it on a pressurized system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do I do? I can't take the car to a mechanic to have them properly pull out the refrigerant to a recovery system because the car is not mobile. I know you're not supposed to just dump R134a to atmosphere (though it's not as bad as R12). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I run the vacuum pump on the system anyway? Is that effectively the same as dumping it to atmosphere? Where do I go from here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5129" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T02:17:26.340" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T21:01:43.900" Title="Can you use a vacuum pump on a charged A/C System?" Tags="|ac|hvac|r134a|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-25T03:17:40.870" Score="5" ViewCount="64613" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just doesn't work, as if I weren't even pressing it and it happens regardless of the speed. I have to turn the engine off and on again and it'll work for another 3 or even up to 20 minutes sometimes before failing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed the oil and gas filters and all the four spark plugs, as well as the oil. I've also cleaned the injection system and the problem is still present. I use unleaded fuel only at 88 octanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way the catalytic converter notice led is always turned on, and it only turned off like 2 minutes after I changed the sparks and it hasn't turned off since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a German Chevrolet Corsa 2002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just noticed that the revs get &lt;em&gt;stuck&lt;/em&gt; right at the moment the issue occurs. i.e. if I'm driving at 90 Km/h and I shift gears, the pedal will stop responding and the revs will be stuck at &lt;code&gt;~2000-2500&lt;/code&gt; until I apply the &lt;em&gt;solution&lt;/em&gt; mentioned above (turning off an on the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit II:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thanks to all that have commented, after many years of intermittently trying to figure this out, the issue was a missing ring that goes on the driver side of the wheel axle, it cost me about $15 USD but it was very hard to find (because my car was assembled in Germany and the only Corsa parts around here are for the model that was assembled in Brazil). I don't know how it's called but it's like a small golden dented ring that just sticks to the axle and without it the speedometer doesn't work (the speed needle would just stay at 0.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks a lot like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onderdelenshop24.com/8154419-autlog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.onderdelenshop24.com/8154419-autlog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo0Au.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo0Au.png&quot; alt=&quot;ABS sensor ring?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the site says it's an ABS sensor ring though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was it, I just put it and drove like 100 Km without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5130" LastEditorUserId="5130" LastEditDate="2019-09-22T19:27:14.650" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T19:27:14.650" Title="Gas pedal not responding" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-25T13:13:10.073" Score="4" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to replace my motorbike clutch friction plates, but cannot remove the basket around the plates ( I think that's what people mean when the say 'basket' - the cover over the plates that keeps them aligned and turns them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have  this strange partblocking my removal of the basket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYvO1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a cover with a spring that presses on the inside of the side cover when the cluctch housing is closed up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngqtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I need a special socket with four splines to remove the nut thingy holding it onto the threaded shaft, but have never come across such a tool, and will attempt hammering it anti-clockwise first, before trying to buy or build such a tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this thing and it's function be? There is nothing inside it when the top is on, and it's shaft is joined to another protruding from the gearbox by a thin chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a 2012 Big Boy DRT-250. I think the 'Big Boy'brand, however, is local, in favour of something more generic. It is a cheap Chinese import but quite a nice little bike for the stipend it costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2646" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T11:59:51.817" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T10:27:25.980" Title="What is this part and how do I remove it?" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9865" CreationDate="2014-05-25T21:02:25.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't need your end goal here, but in almost every vehicle I have worked on I have never had to remove the A/C compressor with the engine. They are designed to be disconnected from the engine and put to the side so you don't have to discharge the refrigerant from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely believe you need to remove or discharge the system, take it to a shop which can draw out the r134a from the system in an environmentally safe way. You should be able to work out some kind of deal with them to bring the vehicle back to them for recharge after it's done. Remember, though, you will have to replace the dryer when you put it back together, as well as recharge the r134a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the vacuum pump to remove the r134a will do the same thing as just dumping it directly into the atmosphere. If you cannot move the vehicle and only want to dump it, you really need to be careful of the r134a freeze burning you as it decompressed out of the system. Obviously, I don't recommend this approach if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T21:02:25.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-26T01:52:53.587" Score="2" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need the blower pressure for a Detroit 2 cycle Diesel 371 cubic inch Oliver 99 tractor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5134" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:45:31.777" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:45:31.777" Title="roots blower pressure on Detroit 2 cycle Diesel 371 cubic inches" Tags="|air-intake|tractor|forced-induction|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7864" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:11:22.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely your carb needs some cleaning. These older style carbs has a few &quot;holes&quot; which could be stuck from like rust from tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the carb and carefully clean it. I would also add/replace the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use etil alcohol for cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2710" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T13:11:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9872" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:51:37.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't know the exact pressure of the 3-71 blower on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_Series_71&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Detroit Diesel&lt;/a&gt; engines, it's actually quite minimal. It is meant as an air mover, which does pressurize the system, but nothing that great. From an educated guess standpoint, probably in the 1-2 psi range. The Detroit Series 71, being a 2-cycle diesel engine, uses the blower to ensure proper intake flow through the engine and into the cylinder. Each blower is matched to the size of the engine to give it the proper amount of air flow to serve this purpose. When you put this same blower onto an engine of smaller displacement and/or increase the speed of the blower in relation to the engine speed, you will get more pressure out of it. This is dependent upon many factors and would only be a guess as to what the outcome would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T13:51:37.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9881" CreationDate="2014-05-26T20:00:07.030" Score="3" ViewCount="2980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder how much fuel is still left in the reserve tank when the yellow fuel reserve indicator lights up in Mercedes-Benz W211 E200 Kompressor (2004). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5135" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T14:15:17.340" Title="Volume of fuel reserve in MB E200 W211 2004" Tags="|fuel-system|mercedes-benz|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9849" CreationDate="2014-05-27T09:42:49.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should recycle them - Aerosols are generally made of aluminium. In my area, aerosols are collected by the local authority as part of their standard kerbside recycling, along with normal cans, bottles etc. I don't know whether Qatar has such a scheme, but it's always better (and more responsible) to avoid stuff going to landfill if possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T11:46:12.637" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T11:46:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9880" CreationDate="2014-05-27T13:11:04.400" Score="6" ViewCount="8309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be changing a few bulbs on my Opel Astra's instrument cluster. Part of the process involves disconnecting the entire cluster from the wiring harness and obviously replacing it when done. The cluster contains an Odometer and clock. Would I need to disconnect the battery first, or would turning the car off and removing the key from the ignition be sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:37:06.160" Title="Should I disconnect the battery when working on my instrument cluster" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-26T22:57:04.097" Score="7" ViewCount="8391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have John Deere SX-85 riding lawnmower which comes with a Peerless 910 series transaxle.  It has mowed the lawn twice since the installation of all new belts over the winter.  During the second mow, it stopped moving in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have used the reverse on the mower numerous times and know about the safety mechanisms required in order to reverse.  i listed  Hyperlinks to the safety mechanisms below because they could be failing and causing the problem, albeit doubtful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not go in reverse.  Even with engine off, mower blades disengaged, and in neutral, i cannot even pull it backwards manually.  I can push forwards however and the lawnmower still mows grass in forward direction.  I will have to pick up the 367 pound lawn mower to get it out of the garage! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e013.html#45905&quot;&gt;Engine Stops When shift lever is moved to the R (REVERSE) position and Attachment Is Engaged&#xA;Normal condition. (See Using Reverse Implement Option in the OPERATING section.)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#32294&quot;&gt;Testing Reverse Implement Option (RIO)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#32294&quot;&gt;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#32294&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#34176&quot;&gt;Using The Reverse Implement Option (RIO)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#34176&quot;&gt;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM143122_E0/Output/143122e05.html#34176&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6240" OwnerDisplayName="rjt" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T14:37:50.610" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:01:10.667" Title="John Deere SX-85 will not go into reverse, or move backwards" Tags="|transmission|john-deere|small-engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9878" CreationDate="2014-05-27T15:22:11.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working on electronics, you are best served by disconnecting the battery. The normal sense of your safety (arcing between hot to ground causing burns) is probably not an issue with this. The main issue is protecting the electronics. Even small discharges of electricity (static or from battery) can fry circuit boards or permanently damage the components. Disconnecting the battery helps to keep these very sensitive items from getting harmed. The simple act of disconnecting the power and/or ground from these instruments can cause the small discharge of electricity which I'm talking about. Note I am saying &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ... this doesn't mean you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; have this type of discharge. Your equipment would probably be safe 99 times out of a hundred ... but that &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; time you don't ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T15:22:11.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9875" CreationDate="2014-05-27T18:46:17.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the class/model, there should be somewhere between 1.5-2.1 USG (~6-8 litres) left in the tank when the light comes on. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/63375-reserve-fuel-indicator-how-accurate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is some interesting reading&lt;/a&gt; on this very subject. It seems MB has had a lot of problems with their fuel level indicators. Seems the &quot;best defense&quot; against this is to never let it get below a 1/4 tank on the gauge. Either that or keep a can of gas in the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T18:46:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9894" CreationDate="2014-05-27T21:00:29.810" Score="4" ViewCount="9779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '06 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.3L L33 engine and 146k miles. I have been having issues with the A/C not continuously blowing cold air. It seems to cycle between cold and luke-warm. I have checked the refrigerant pressure and added some to bring it up to around 40psi on the low side (it was down around the 23-24psi range before I started, which I know is low). 40psi is (from my understanding) near the high end of the &quot;full&quot; range. The A/C compressor does cycle on/off without issue. The low-side is cold going into the cabin. The high side is warm (as I'd expect it to be). Also, when the A/C is on, I can hear it &quot;whistle&quot; (does not occur with the A/C off). The whistling will not replicate if I just let it idle and listen under the hood. I had my wife rev the engine a little, and even with it off-idle, I still couldn't hear it under the hood, but my wife was hearing it still inside the cabin. My thinking is, there is a problem with the actuator for the blend door, which I'm assuming is vacuum operated. Does this seem reasonable, or is there something else going on here which I'm not aware of? Maybe someone has some experience with this type of vehicle and it's A/C system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T12:27:34.967" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T17:56:14.337" Title="A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T01:38:28.200" Score="4" ViewCount="12054" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v5OI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ball joint... 15 degrees of play here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've replaced this ball joint and still get play going over bumps and with the steering wheel turned all the way to one side or another-- you can rock the wheel and get about 15 degrees of play in that ball joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to visualize the geometry and where the extra tolerance exists that is leading to this rocking/popping I hear. I'd like to insert a metal shim or washers somewhere to tighten up ... Whatever it is that's got extra play...to prevent the tire from rocking on the ball joint axis but  I have yet to figure out where exactly the problem is. I'm having difficulty visualizing the geometry involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5143" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:59:35.600" Title="MacPherson strut lower control arm ball joint play and suspension geometry" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9884" CreationDate="2014-05-28T10:58:16.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replaced the lower ball joint and are still getting massive movement out of the wheel, I'd suggest your wheel bearing is bad. With the strut suspension, you shouldn't be having that much movement on the vertical, even with a bad ball joint. A bad ball joint will only give you movement at the bottom, where you should only see maybe 1-2 degrees of deflection. The other areas of the suspension where you might see any type of deflection are the bushings at the base of the lower A-arm, where it meets the frame rail. Secondly, there should be a hard rubber piece at the top of the strut. Either of these places would not allow for as much deflection as you are suggesting, again 1-2 degrees, if you could even get it to move with your hands. Which leads me back to the wheel bearing(s). These are the ones in the hub (depending on the vehicle, it could be one or two sets there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To detect the ball joint deflection, look at the below image. You'll see movement between these two pieces in your lower A-arm and spindle (where the two arrows are):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAGHJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any lateral movement here, it's bad, and needs replaced. The ball joint should allow free twisting movement, but should not allow lateral movement. In order to see if this is deflecting, you need to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack the front end off of the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support the car on a jack stand while leaving the A-arm with the ball joint completely unsupported, and the tire about 3-4&quot; off the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a board (2x4 over 4 feet in length - or some such which is similar) under the tire from the front of the vehicle, with about 6-8&quot; of board to the back side of the tire (board should be inline with the vehicle at this point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the board as a cantilever, lift the board so the tire becomes supported&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the board to the left and right while observing the ball joint area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for deflection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T18:59:37.723" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T18:59:37.723" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9884" CreationDate="2014-05-28T19:59:35.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need an assistant to move the wheel while you observe where the movement is occurring. I would first check the balljoint stud. If the tapered hole in the spindle is worn or the nut was not tightened to spec you may get some movement there. Verify that the movement is coming from the ball joint as @ Paulster has suggested. The movement may be in the tierod ends or control arm bushing if you do the balljoint test incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:59:35.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T20:28:54.583" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a pre-2000 year Ford truck, less crowded workspace-wise?  Were engine and transimission &quot;spaces&quot; larger?  I want to buy an older truck, maybe a Ford Ranger, and rebuild the engine and/or transmission, and by rebuild, more than likely it just means put new parts on.  For example, the transmission.  I don't really want to rebuild the guts of the transmission.  I want to buy one and installed it, same with engine parts (though I could tackle a head gasket.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want anything that requires me to be super contorted to work on, though some difficulty is of course expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other uncrowded workspaces that are commonly known about?  Does it matter if it is automatic vs. manual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hope this is not too opinionated and will not be voted down.  My hope is this is well known enough among the mechanic culture to be common and not simply opinion from person to person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastEditorUserId="2526" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T21:12:55.273" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T12:28:32.350" Title="Do Pre-2000 Ford trucks have a less mechanically crowded workspace than a Post-2000 Ford truck?" Tags="|ford|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T08:11:57.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to decode the data obd-ii directly by Matlab (read data directly from reader obd-ii and decimal display in real time.) Should I create a Matlab interface or there is a direct method (vehicle network toolbox, for example?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Original question from OP in French: Bonjour,j'aimerais bien décoder les données obd-ii directement par Matlab(lire les données directement du lecteur obd-ii et les afficher en décimal en temps réel).Dois-je créer une interface sur Matlab ou il existe une méthode directe(vehicle network toolbox par exemple??)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T10:29:50.163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T13:45:05.103" Title="Read OBD-II Signals Matlab (in real time)" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T11:11:39.887" Score="1" ViewCount="3767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been extracting OBD-II DATA from UART board (ELM327) on my TOYOTA INNOVA. It responded correctly few weeks before and gave all supported sensor values. But now, for every response, ECU responds &lt;strong&gt;&quot;7F 01 11&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. Please tell me what exactly this output means and how to get rid of this problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:13:13.747" Title="Error Message from OBD-II (7F 01 11)" Tags="|engine|toyota|obd-ii|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9888" CreationDate="2014-05-29T12:28:32.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about Fords specifically, but as a general rule of thumb, older vehicles are usually easier to work on than newer ones - They usually have less in terms of large crash structures etc, and fewer accessories in the engine bay taking up space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing parts is usually easier when those parts are mostly or wholly mechanical too, wheras newer vehicles tend to have more electronics, which often can't be fixed by a hobbyist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use 2000 as a cut-off date though - most mid-late 90s vehicles are very similar to 2000s models - you tend to need to look back before the mid 90s to get the simpler models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what else is around - that depends where you are. Traditional Land Rovers are a good example of a small truck that is easily accessible, as the entire vehicle can be easily dismantled, but they aren't as common in North America...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T12:28:32.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11822" CreationDate="2014-05-29T17:14:06.703" Score="2" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo and the A/C is usually fine. However, this car has gone through 4 blower motor resistors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that, randomly while driving or when turning the A/C on (it will go out even if the A/C is already on) the A/C just suddenly starts blowing full blast. HOWEVER, if I turn the A/C dial to off, it only blows air (not cold or hot) and the resistor does not get heated. However, if I turn the dial to any of the settings, the resistor begins to warm up and the hot/cold air starts blowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I shut the car off, the air continues to blow. The reason I think the problem is the resistor is because, in the past, when I have replaced the resistor, this problem is fixed. However, I am now sure this is a chronic issue somewhere else - but I cannot even begin to think where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, should the resistor even be heating up if it were the problem? Am I replacing the wrong part? I would think that, if the resistor were bad, it would either A) Not pass the resistor and no A/C would blow OR B) Blow at high speed and &lt;strong&gt;completely&lt;/strong&gt; bypass the resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I know when the dial is at the highest setting, the wiring diagram shows that the current will bypass the resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give any insight as to what might be causing my resistors to &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; (or really) go out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5149" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T23:23:24.193" Title="Blower motor resistor Continuously Going Out....or not?" Tags="|ac|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2014-05-29T17:48:47.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a TSB &#xA;06-01-39-011A A/C - WHISTLE NOISE/BLOWER MOTOR STALLS/VIBRATES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This bulletin only applies to Delphi-built HVAC cases, which can be&#xA;  easily identified by visually inspecting the HVAC case from under the&#xA;  passenger instrument panel. The Visteon case is bolted together at the&#xA;  case halves and the bolts are silver in color. The Delphi case will be&#xA;  heat staked together at the HVAC case halves. If prior work has been&#xA;  performed on the Delphi case, the procedure is to bolt the case back&#xA;  together, so you may find bolts of many different colors. If there is&#xA;  any question, check the repair history and drop down the HVAC sound&#xA;  insulator panel to inspect the blower motor assembly. The Visteon&#xA;  blower motor will be bolted into the case. The Delphi blower motor&#xA;  turns inside the case and will have a plastic lock tab on the motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some customers may comment on a whistle sound when the blower motor is&#xA;  on and the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) control is&#xA;  put into recirculation mode. Other customers may comment that the&#xA;  blower motor stalls out or vibrates or that a &quot;sticky&quot; noise is&#xA;  present during air recirculation door operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cause:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The adhesive foam used on the air recirculation door (air inlet valve)&#xA;  may not be properly secured, causing some of the foam to contact other&#xA;  HVAC components. The foam could potentially come in contact with the&#xA;  blower motor fan and/or the foam may stick to the inner HVAC case&#xA;  walls, causing the door to stick or hang up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/chevrolet/suburban_1/2_ton_4wd/v8-5.3l_vin_z_flex_fuel/heating_and_air_conditioning/blower_motor/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_bulletins_for_blower_motor/06-01-39-011a/mar/07/a/c_whistle_noise/blower_motor_stalls/vibrates/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the blower motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locate the partially loose foam, repair or replace as necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/chevrolet/suburban_1/2_ton_4wd/v8-5.3l_vin_z_flex_fuel/heating_and_air_conditioning/blower_motor/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_bulletins_for_blower_motor/06-01-39-011a/mar/07/a/c_whistle_noise/blower_motor_stalls/vibrates/page_14099/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See here for more detailed instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may or may not be your issue, but it's at least worth a check. Depending on outside air temp, mixing outside air will raise the temp. Leave me a comment if this isn't an issue and I will do some more research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and to answer your other question it is not vacuum driving actuator. It's a 5-wire bi-directional electric motor that incorporates a feedback potentiometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T17:56:14.337" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T17:56:14.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-30T02:10:06.260" Score="0" ViewCount="3278" Body="&lt;p&gt;My honda city 2009 AT would not start. The gauges would light up. The power windows,radio and AC worked. I was able to turn the key but when I try to start it, it will just give a sound like it is starting but it will not really start. I als tried to start it while on Park and Neutral mode but it still would not start. Please help me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5150" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T15:33:01.820" Title="Honda City 2009 : It would not start Start" Tags="|engine|honda|battery|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2014-05-30T09:53:48.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may just have a dirty fuel filter and gas tank. Because there's lots of gunk in your gas tank, e.g. sand, rust or other debris, when you have the tank filled, this gets swirled around and sucked up by the fuel pump. As soon as enough of this gunk gets into your fuel filter, it gets blocked. Which is why the car shudders and dies at low RPM. At higher RPM or under load, the pump would apply more force and you'll get more fuel through, but at lower pressures it won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as the filter was replaced and the fuel system flushed, I'd recommend having a peak inside the tank itself. I don't think a fuel system flush includes cleaning out the tank, so it might be worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T09:53:48.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-30T13:40:33.173" Score="4" ViewCount="19282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have oil leaking from a spark plug socket on my 1981 Volkswagen Rabbit pickup truck. Before you ask, it's swapped with the 1.6 gas motor instead of the 1.6 diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil leak appears to only be coming from cylinder 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture if that helps. Note that the engine is pretty filthy because it used to have a notorious valve cover gasket leak but that has been repaired. I just can't be bothered to clean it as I've tried a power washer and the stuff just wouldn't come off.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFaeE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil leak&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know the mileage on the engine nor how many miles have been put on it. The odometer is broken and the previous owner said he does not know how many miles were on the engine when it was put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did idle pretty rough but I ran some seafoam through and that fixed it. It also has brand new E3 spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wondering 'where's the question' my question is what is likely causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3823" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T04:36:08.047" Title="Oil leaking from spark plug socket" Tags="|oil|vw|sparkplugs|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9259" CreationDate="2014-05-30T13:46:23.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobsmuffler.com/reasons_for_a_converter_failure.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, the cat can surely be plugged by coolant entering the catalytic converter. Here are the reasons given on the website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Tune-Up Required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of problems could occur to the catalytic converter as the result of an engine that is out of tune. Any time an engine is operating outside proper specifications, unnecessary wear and damage may be caused to the the catalytic converter as well as the engine itself. The damage is often the result of an incorrect air/fuel mixture, incorrect timing, or misfiring spark plugs. Any of these conditions could lead to a catalytic converter failure or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess Fuel Entering Exhaust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel that powers your vehicle is meant to burn in the combustion chamber only. Any fuel that leaves the combustion chamber unburned will enter the exhaust system and light-off when it reaches the catalytic converter. This can super-heat the converter far above normal operating conditions and cause a Melt Down. Possible causes are an incorrect fuel mixture, incorrect timing, corroded spark plugs, a faulty oxygen sensor, sticking float, faulty fuel injector or a malfunctioning check valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil or Antifreeze Entering Exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil or Antifreeze entering the exhaust system can block the air passages by creating a heavy carbon soot that coats the ceramic catalyst. These heavy Carbon Deposits create two problems. First, the carbon deposits prevent the catalytic converter from reducing harmful emission in the exhaust flow. And second, the carbon deposits clog the pores in the ceramic catalyst and block exhaust flow, increasing backpressure and causing heat and exhaust to back up into the engine compartment. Your engine may actually draw burnt exhaust gasses back into the combustion chamber and dilute the efficiency of the next burn cycle. The result is a loss of power and overheated engine components. Possible causes are worn piston rings, faulty valve seals, failed gaskets or warped engine components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deteriorated Spark Plug or Spark Plug Wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs that don't fire or misfire cause unburned fuel to enter the exhaust system. The unburned fuel ignites inside the converter and could result in a partial or complete melt down of the ceramic catalyst. Spark plugs and spark plug wires should be checked regularly and replaced if damaged or if wires are worn or cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen Sensor Not Functioning Properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oxygen sensor failure can lead to incorrect readings of exhaust gasses. The faulty sensor can cause a too rich or too lean condition. Too rich and the catalyst can melt down. Too lean and the converter is unable to convert the hydrocarbons into safe elements and may not pass a state inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road Damage or Broken Hangers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ceramic catalyst inside a catalytic converter is made from a lightweight, thin-walled, fragile material. It is protected by a dense, insulating mat. This mat holds the catalyst in place and provides moderate protection against damage. However, rock or road debris s triking the converter or improper or broken exhaust system support can cause a Catalyst Fracture. Once the ceramic catalyst is fractured, the broken pieces become loose and rattle around and break up into smaller pieces. Flow is interrupted and backpressure in the exhaust system increases. This leads to heat build up and loss of power. Possible causes of a catalyst fracture are road debris striking the converter, loose or broken hangers, potholes or off-road driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the original question, the actual problem was that the plugged cat had caused the problem of the blown head gasket, not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T13:46:23.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9900" CreationDate="2014-05-30T22:05:49.230" Score="4" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1983 Honda Nighthawk but the battery has died. I also have a trickle charger that you see in this photo but I'm not quite sure what amp and voltage settings I need to use for a motorcycle battery. Is a motorcycle battery significantly different than a car battery? What settings do I need to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2Bdi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5153" LastEditorUserId="5153" LastEditDate="2014-05-30T22:11:50.673" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T22:33:15.377" Title="how to charge a dead motorcycle battery?" Tags="|motorcycle|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2014-05-30T22:33:15.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be 12 volt, and you should always charge at the lowest setting reasonable. In this case I would use the 2 amp setting, 6 amps won't hurt it necessarily but the faster you charge a battery the more you shorten it's life. Other than being smaller the isn't any difference in a car and motorcycle battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T22:33:15.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2014-05-31T01:46:48.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few drops of WD40, sponge off, all gone. Hose and wipe the WD40 off with clean sponge. Does not harm the paint. Very efficient with Rust-O-... automotive duct tape. Do you believe that? Next time, I won't use stupid duct tape but paint tape, which leaves no marks, costs the same and resists rain, cold and heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5155" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-31T03:14:39.453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T03:14:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-31T09:29:04.967" Score="2" ViewCount="1608" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 years old, 25000km done. The main problem is that the bike pulls or drifts towards the right side. I took it to the original service centre where they said the front fork bent and they overhauled it and repaired the bend. Still the problem continued. So I went to a known mechanic who checked and he said there was a twist in the fork, which he also rectified. Now some what ok. But problem continues when taking turns or going faster than 40kph.&#xA;I dont know what to do. Even shock absorbers are also giving problem.&#xA;Is there any solution to this? Or can anyone can suggest good mechanic in chennai.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5157" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-05-31T13:29:28.200" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T09:14:48.677" Title="Pulsar 150 drifts right side" Tags="|motorcycle|pulsar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9758" CreationDate="2014-05-31T11:59:25.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;New disc brake pads should feel snappy and responsive. If the line is free of bubbles, and the rotor is free of grease, the next step is to check that the brake calipers are clean and slide smoothly, that the brake pedal is properly lubricated and not sticking, and that the master cylinder is sliding freely. Sometimes a shot of chain lube right into the plunger area fixes it. But brakes are no joke. Bring the bike back and tell them your concern and use your gut to decide whether they're taking it seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5158" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T11:59:25.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9229" CreationDate="2014-05-31T12:12:28.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be no problem. An otherwise good electrical system will get you to 100% after a short ride. However, having just dealt with a bad regulator myself, I'd say to check the levels and make sure there is no overcharging (boiling/&quot;cooking&quot;) of the battery taking place. &quot;Wet-type&quot; batteries should have a vent and overflow tube. In my experience the main danger of overcharging is ending up somewhere inconvenient with a dead battery that can't be charged. On some bikes, the engine won't function without a conductive, if not dead, battery in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5158" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T12:12:28.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1301" CreationDate="2014-05-31T17:17:50.013" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;check your crankshaft sensor. worked with me 100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5159" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T17:17:50.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7480" CreationDate="2014-06-01T00:09:39.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a bearing in the clutch. There's a fair bit of labour in pulling a clutch, even just to inspect it, so I'd recommend ignoring it until other symptoms appear. eg turn up the stereo!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T00:09:39.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2014-06-01T03:14:51.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try hydro shields.  Other are nylon covers for your intake filters made by injen.  It fixed the problem on my Audi tt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5160" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T11:54:12.617" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T11:54:12.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9909" CreationDate="2014-06-01T03:28:25.460" Score="8" ViewCount="18000" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the broad spectrum of cars, there's higher end models with sport-focused engines.  Examples would be an BMW M3, and even more so Ferraris and Koenigseggs etc. Apparently they're more fussy, in that new cars need a careful run in, special oil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that they often have a huge swathe of torque, you can get away with minimal throttle and low RPMs for conservative road driving. Question is, is this ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that these cars &quot;need&quot; to be driven hard occasionally, i.e. an &quot;Italian tune-up&quot; and all that. Granted, there's the ulterior motive of actually using the car to its full potential. One owner wrote on a forum that after taking his BMW M5 to the track, the exhaust pipe was nicely cleaned out and it was a smoother drive on the way back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with clearing out carbon build up from low temperature and low airflow usage, another issue might be optimal RPM for piston and head life. An engine might be so optimised for performance at 8,000 RPM, that driving it at 1,500 RPM long term, though very doable, could result in extra engine wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth in that? Perhaps there are certain sports cars that do need this &quot;Italian&quot; treatment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T11:51:59.407" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T01:29:10.327" Title="Do fast cars need to occasionally be driven fast?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|driving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9908" CreationDate="2014-06-01T12:32:16.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DISCLAIMER:&lt;/strong&gt; This is one of those questions where you are going to get a ton of opinion and speculation, and my reply will have some of that in it as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there is a lot of myth out there about what cars actually need to maintain them as they are and should be. For instance, your comment about the M5 owner. The entire statement is about seat of the pants performance check. It could be that the driver was very excited, still hyped on adrenalin, and it felt better to him because &lt;em&gt;he felt better&lt;/em&gt;. On the other hand there is &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; basis of truth, depending on the driving habits of the individual involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good for any vehicle to be driven for an extended period of time. If the engine and components are not given a chance to warm up thoroughly, you'll find that carbon build-up and moisture will be left behind where you really don't want it to occur (in the oil and crank case most notably). Does this mean you need to once in a while drive the performance vehicle like a raped banshee to &quot;clean the carbon out&quot;? Not at all. If the car is ran up to operating temperature on a regular basis (a minimum of once a month) and driven for a good set of miles (30+), you should have no issue with the car other than normal maintenance and should expect the vehicle to perform when you want it to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it were true, what would be the maintenance interval and specifications for an &quot;Italian Tuneup&quot;? Do you roast the rear tires once a month? Twice a month? Is driving at 150mph what needs to happen? And for how long? What should you do to achieve this &quot;blowing out the carbon&quot; and getting your high performance sports car to a proper tune? I hope you see the problem with this, because there isn't any &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; answer. It all comes from seat of the pants tuning, which isn't accurate, to say the least. People will tell you this must be done so as to give themselves a reason to drive their vehicle to the extreme of their vehicle's ability. This is one of the two reasons to have bought the vehicle in the first place (the other reason is for the bragging rights). Something you'll find, though, is owners of these higher performance vehicles are not content with &quot;normal driving&quot;. It is way too easy and exhibits way too much fun to be able to drive such a car at the performance level it was designed. This is the reason you purchase something like this in the first place. &lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; owners of such vehicles will give it the &lt;em&gt;Italian Tuneup&lt;/em&gt; on a regular basis, just because they can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it boils down to is this: Give me some empirical evidence an &quot;Italian Tuneup&quot; is needed to maintain the proper running of a vehicle and I'll believe it. Until then, I'll stick with what I know, which is, proper maintenance and regular driving is all you need and the vehicle, no matter what vehicle, will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-02T11:18:57.513" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T11:18:57.513" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9913" CreationDate="2014-06-01T12:39:32.650" Score="3" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Honda Fit's front driver's side wheel has started squeaking as it rotates. I've grabbed a video of the sound:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/E8HnarRSwRg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/E8HnarRSwRg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear it squeaking up to about 60 km/h / ~35 mph until I can't hear it over the sound of road noise. (At those speeds it sounds more like a ticking sound because of the wheel speed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It squeaks even when I'm braking, and even when I'm turning full left or full right. The sound seems to be totally dependent on the speed of the wheel's rotation, and doesn't change when I'm in neutral or any gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't drive very often; mostly only on weekends, and usually only around town, occasionally 100+ km or more. I live in Nova Scotia, near the ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm planning to get it looked at, I'm also going on a road trip next week of about 2500 km / 1500 miles. How serious is the squeaking? Would it be safe to wait until I got back from my trip or should I prioritize getting it looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5162" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T14:42:26.617" Title="Squeaky front wheel on 2007 Honda Fit" Tags="|honda|noise|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9927" CreationDate="2014-06-01T14:00:54.680" Score="3" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I noticed that all four of my turn signals were not turning on. About two months I had the flasher replaced because they turned on but just would not blink, now they will not even light up... as dead as the dodo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking it was a similar issue, I had an electrical diagnostic done. I was told that the electrical harness was fried and needed to be replaced, costing about $600!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seemed weird to me, since the hazard lights engage and flash all of the lights, but cars and I don't have the best relationships, so I really have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it could be the flasher again? Or potentially a switch in the steering column where the turn switch actually resides (two months ago I also had the problem of the left blinker not auto-disengaging, so my car just hates blinkers apparently... or me.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5163" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T15:18:37.020" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T18:42:46.490" Title="'96 Buick Century Turn Signal Not Working" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9908" CreationDate="2014-06-01T14:25:01.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As asked, the question is highly subjective, and Paulster2 provides sound reasoning that makes it amply clear why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an effort to remain objective, I will stick with the example of the BMW M5 (which I own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The source of the Italian tune-up myth pertaining to the E39 M5 is easily explained.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every car has its quirks and design flaws and the M5 is no exception. The relevant design flaw in the S62 pertains to the secondary air tracts in the cylinder heads. These tracts are designed to reduce cold-start emissions by delivering extra air to the exhaust in order to help eliminate unburnt hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Over several years, unburnt hydrocarbons accumulate in these poorly designed tracts (a.k.a &amp;quot;carbon build-up&amp;quot;), clogging them and rendering the secondary air system ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon build-up has two impacts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It triggers a Check Engine Light/engine code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It worsens cold-start emissions (and makes the engine a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; noisier at startup)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the former is more of a concern than the latter due to road permit regulations and owners' annoyance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To delay the onset of this issue, the owners on some forums suggest to drive &amp;quot;spiritedly&amp;quot; from time to time to clear out these secondary air tracts. Since most people don't need a second invitation to drive such a car like they stole it, the notion of driving the M5 hard as preventive maintenance easily gained traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular issue has &lt;em&gt;negligible impact&lt;/em&gt; on the S62's performance and life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Carbon build-up aside, is it better for the engine run at max RPM than 1,500 RPM?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. At least not in terms of longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because most components in modern-day engines are designed to endure a certain number of cycles before failing. Running the engine at higher RPM reduces the time needed to achieve reach failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T14:25:01.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9910" CreationDate="2014-06-01T14:32:47.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the brake squealer, as in the brake pads are getting to the end of their life expectancy. You should be able to do a visual inspection of the brake pad should tell you very readily if this is the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I realized I didn't answer the second part of your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the  brakes start squealing, it probably isn't imperative you get it fixed. It is just an indication that you need to get it looked at. There should be several millimeters of pad left to keep you stopping. It is really subjective, though, depending iron the brake material and quality of the brake pad itself as to whether it will continue to perform without issue. It is the &quot;how long&quot; which would worry me. I would highly suggest if you app have the time to get them changed prior to your road trip, but more than likely it would perform without issue. Road miles are not going to be as detrimental to your brakes as city driving would be. It's your choice, but I would err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T14:42:26.617" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T14:42:26.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-01T14:40:24.827" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference (besides price) between Brisk LR14ZC and Brisk LR14ZC-1 spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T14:52:36.603" Title="What is the difference between Brisk LR14ZC and LR14ZC-1 spark plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2014-06-01T14:52:36.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.briskracing.com/identification-and-construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brisk website&lt;/a&gt;, the difference in the two is the gap of the spark plug. The &quot;-1&quot; extension, says it should be gapped between 1.0 and 1.1 mm. Without the extension, the gap should be .4 to .9 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T14:52:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9926" CreationDate="2014-06-01T16:46:24.657" Score="3" ViewCount="32971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Pioneer stereo system (FH-X700BT) for my 2008 Hyundai Sonata. The Sonata still has its factory speakers. The factory stereo was working fine, I just wanted something other than a CD player (aux, bt). After I connected the stereo wiring to the wiring harness and plugged it in, the music couldn't even be heard over the AC, whether from the CD or radio. I plugged the old stereo back in to be sure it was the new stereo causing the problem, and the sound was loud as expected. I am almost positive that none of my wire connections are bad, and pretty sure they are all matched up properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be my next step in troubleshooting? What are some things that could cause this, and things that I should be wary of? Should this be working normally or is there some sort of compatibility issue I overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T15:06:47.983" Title="Newly self-installed stereo system quiet with poor, tinny sound quality" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8878" CreationDate="2014-06-01T19:31:12.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That part is actually a Direct Ignition Cassette.   It does far more than just act as an ignition coil.   There normally is some white great at the bottom, but it normally isn't leaking.  It is an expensive part but seems to fail in some way normally every 100k or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T19:31:12.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9922" CreationDate="2014-06-01T21:15:40.997" Score="3" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this question about the tires especially I'm planning a road trip this summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is the situation of my car that raised this question. I bought this car brand new in 2011. I am a light driver, so I only put roughly 10k miles on this car so far. I generally keep the tire pressure around the factory recommendations, and have done one tire rotation. Mostly I drive in cities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here come the question, based on the milage, the tire should be OK. But in my situation, as I am a light driver, I don't drive cars very often, so it just parks in the parking lot. So in this kind of situation, should the milage still be the main criteria to determine when to change the tire? What I am concerned of is the aging the rubber of the tire as it's already on my car for 3 yrs. I believe for most drivers, the car would get more than 50k miles in 3 years, so the milage probably is the main criteria for changing tires as aging of the tire probably is not significant comparing to the worn out due to milage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in general, how many years of the tire would be considered aging? And in my situation, should I change the tires for a certain length of time (like 5 years or so) rather than a certain milage (like around 30k to 50k miles for most tires)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="5166" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T01:26:32.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T09:33:45.423" Title="Factors affecting car tires life time: milage or aging?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-01T23:41:42.530" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 86 Trans Am fuel injected 305 is a beast but after hard driving I come to a slow stop and it will stall either while stopped or stopping. It starts right back up tho and never occurs any other time. New plugs dist rotor and module. 117 k&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5167" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T09:34:41.423" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T09:34:41.423" Title="86 Trans Am stalls after hard driving when coming to a stop" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T16:05:47.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2014-06-02T01:41:45.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a motocycle turbo kit from a junk yard increas the gas intake and install a platnum spark plug add some cooling a computer liquide cooling kit would be perfect for a push mower have the pump and fan run off an old cordless drill battery or a few AAAs. When you install the turbo start with low pressure you dont want to blow up the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimated boost 2-6 hp estimated cost 100-300 usd&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T01:41:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9918" CreationDate="2014-06-02T09:33:45.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right to be concerned about the rubber of the tyres aging - rubber does perish over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the rubber in a tyre should last 6-10 years, depending on circumstances (things like ambient temperature, whether it is kept in direct sunlight, local climate etc all affect it) - note that this would be from when it is manufactured, which could be several months before they were fitted to your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have to worry about it just yet, but keep an eye on them (just visually check them when you check the pressures), and replace them if you see any signs of cracking or perishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T09:33:45.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2014-06-02T11:17:24.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote this article on my forum (yes, selfless plug) about two years ago. Its title is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://brokeauto.com/content.php/31-Hot-Rodding-Your-Lawnmower&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hot Rodding Your Lawn Mower&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. I believe it is pertinent and will explain after I post the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I, like many of you, have a newer self-propelled lawnmower which has a set engine speed. You grab the safety handle, pull the starter cord, the thing goes vroom, you release the cable and it shuts off. You do not have any direct way to change engine speed. Either it is on and running, or off and not. The other day I had an issue with the engine where it didn't seem to be running up at its normal speed. I started looking at how the carb and all was put together to see if there was something wrong. What I figured out turned out to be an easy problem to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Looking at how most lawnmower engine speed is controlled, it comes down to two things. First, there is a small vane type lever which is connected to the throttle on the carburetor. The cooling fan which is on top of the engine, blows air on this vane as the engine speeds up, actually causing the butterfly in the carb to close, slowing down the engine. What causes the engine to speed up is the second part of the equation, which is a small spring, which pulls against the vane. It ends up being a basic tug of war between the spring and the vane, which allows the engine to operate at a consistent speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basic output of any engine is computed by using torque output and engine speed and running it through an equation to come up with a horsepower figure (NOTE: See below). There are two ways to increase the horsepower: increase the torque at any given engine speed or by increasing the engine speed itself (the second works to a point where the torque value decreases to a point where there are diminishing returns ... but that is for another discussion). On a small engine as I describe above, the easiest way to increase horsepower is by speeding up the engine. You can speed up the engine of this type by either putting a stiffer/shorter spring on to pull against the vane OR you can lengthen the distance the current spring has to pull on the vane. The opposite is what had happened to my lawnmower. Specifically, the small metal mount which the spring hangs off of had been bent towards the carburetor just a little bit. This was caused by something hitting it during mowing. I took a screwdriver (any long prying tool will work) and gently bent the metal mount away from the carb. This allowed the engine to speed back up to its normal running speed. Thinking if a little was good, more would be better! Letting the &quot;Tim The Toolman Taylor&quot; in me come out, I bent it just a wee bit more. This made the engine run a little bit faster than it was designed. As described above, this increases the horsepower output of the engine and allows me to run through deeper grass more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this is important is this: I discovered on my own lawnmower that I had inadvertently bumped the piece which holds the spring, thus shortening the spring's holding distance, allowing the mower to run at a lower rpm and not building enough speed or HP to power through the tough grass. A lawn mower with a 7hp engine should have no problems powering through even deep grass. There is more going on, I'd think, than just tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T11:17:24.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2152" CreationDate="2014-06-02T15:23:43.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just posting this in a few places because I had starting problems with my Mk 3 Galaxy and just found a fix. The Mk 3 and a few other fords have no lift pump. Fuel is drawn in using the high pressure pump beside the engine. My galaxy turned over fine and started for a few seconds and then stopped. I found that the fuel line was empty. When I primed the line there were bubbles visible in the line. The problem was that there was a pin hole in the flexible line connecting  the fuel filter to the rigid line running back to the tank. The hole had been caused by wear from the flexible line rubbing against a loom of wires (i.e. bad design:mad: ). If there had been a lift pump it would have been evident because there would have been a diesel leak but because there is no lift pump air was being drawn in causing the line to empty back to the tank when stopped and bubbles in the line when running. It was a tough one to diagnose and the normal 'fix' of installing a check (a.k.a. non-return) valve near the high pressure pump did not work. I discovered the hole when I heard a quiet hiss when priming the line using a hand diesel primer pump. Find a quiet spot to do this. The fix in my case was simply to install a fresh piece of tubing between the filter and the hard line but make sure you find the leak first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same issue could be caused by a leaking filter housing or a bad o-ring seal in one of the filter connectors. I know of at least one case where a guy sold his S-Max because of a similar problem that could not be fixed. Hopefully this will be of help to someone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5173" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T15:23:43.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9916" CreationDate="2014-06-02T15:45:28.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be because your speakers are wired out-of-phase (&quot;+&quot; to &quot;+&quot; on one speaker, and &quot;+&quot; to &quot;-&quot; on another.  When this happens, the sound &quot;cancels each other out&quot; to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test this, adjust the fader and balance to isolate a single speaker (say, the front-left speaker).  Then bring in a second speaker.  It they are wired out of phase, the volume and sound quality will decrease. Do this a few times, using different combinations of speakers (front-right and front-left, then front-right and back-right, etc), to make sure they all sound good together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T15:06:47.983" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T15:06:47.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9916" CreationDate="2014-06-02T16:26:19.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like no amplification. I don't know hyundai and all but I had a similar problem with my volvo, they had a separate amp box that you had to have a special aftermarket harness to wire to to kick in the amp. Otherwise all you got was very faint tinny, no bass sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T16:26:19.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9911" CreationDate="2014-06-02T17:43:05.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I brought the car to another mechanic to fix whatever was wrong. As they started looking into it they quickly identified the flasher was burnt out. They replaced it and everything is good to go. Much cheaper than $600!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T17:43:05.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9929" CreationDate="2014-06-02T23:02:44.110" Score="3" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the 2002 Chevy Cavalier has disc brakes in the front and drum brakes in the back. What I don't know is whether the drum brakes are used at all during normal braking, or if they exist only for use with the emergency/parking brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the rear drum brakes in a Chevy Cavalier used in normal braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5175" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T23:19:46.533" Title="Chevy Cavalier Brakes (Drums + Disc)" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9928" CreationDate="2014-06-02T23:19:46.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All rear brakes are designed to be used. What does happen, though, is that the rear brakes are used &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; than the front. There is in the braking system a device called a portioning valve. This valve creates a bias in the braking, making most of the effort come from the front. Depending on how the manufacturer sets it up, the bias is usually around 60-70% to the front and 30-40% to the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T23:19:46.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23342" CreationDate="2014-06-02T23:50:21.527" Score="3" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read all over the place while trying to install an aftermarket stereo into my 2008 Hyundai Sonata GLS that there's a &quot;premium sound&quot; option that requires a special wiring harness. I bought this wiring harness without thinking about it. If I have premium sound, I will need to buy an extra adapter, and if I don't I will need to cut down this harness and remove some transistors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know for sure whether or not I have this &quot;premium sound&quot; option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5165" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:43:53.350" Title="How do I know if my 2008 Hyundai Sonata has the Premium Sound option?" Tags="|hyundai|audio|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-03T04:11:04.383" Score="1" ViewCount="4480" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning in my 2002 Subaru Impreza has sort of worked the last couple years. This year it got bad enough that I began trying to fix it, but even though it's totally useless on a 30 minute drive on an 80-degree day, it still puts out 40-degree air for almost a minute at the beginning of the trip (so the compressor runs, obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to try to recharge it. I did this, and the pressure both before and after the recharge was basically 0. It was an 18 oz can. I did this with the car running, and after I was done the air that was blowing was hot, so I figured it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, on my first drive, I got cold air for probably 3 minutes - longer than normal. It kind of came and went though - unsure if it was tied to throttle/speed. Anyway at the end of the three minutes it didn't just blow hot air, the car started &quot;coughing&quot; every 4 seconds. Like it was trying to start the compressor (guessing) and some safety mechanism was saying &quot;uh, nope, abort that&quot; and there was a noticeable hiccup in my engine/speed. I turned the air off and this went away immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two theories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I have some problem other than low refrigerant and now that I've charged it I have an overcharged system that still has the original unknown problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I need even more refrigerant, because it's working better now and air conditioners with low refrigerant tend to freeze up during use and maybe that's what's causing the hiccuping. It's anyone's guess if I have a super-slow leak that took 12 years to get to where it is or if I have a really fast one that makes recharging a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the immediately question is whether I should try more refrigerant or if I should go immediately to the catch-all answer of &quot;take it to a mechanic to test for leaks and other problems and between 100 and 900 dollars later come home with working AC.&quot; Or, is there any other troubleshooting I can do at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5176" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-03T10:34:33.347" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T20:22:26.450" Title="Malfunctioning air conditioner mystery - recharge makes car run worse" Tags="|ac|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-03T06:02:35.250" Score="3" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2000 Honda Accord 4 cylinder. Problem started last week. Turned a/c to cold, cold air not as cold as before, plus a loud hissing sound that seems to be coming from the passenger side, under the glove compartment. So, turned a/c off, and just use air vents (turned off the recycle air button). Hissing sound continues, and cold air comes out of whenever car is in motion, colder than having a/c on. Is the car in big trouble? I have smog check due soon too...Anyone knows what is happening or has experienced this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5177" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T14:25:30.653" Title="Air conditioning not on, but still giving out cold air when car in motion, and makes hissing sounds" Tags="|honda|ac|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-03T06:13:10.510" Score="0" ViewCount="2842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord SE. I have noticed that when I stepped on the gas pedal after coming to a complete stop, or just starting a drive, the tachometer needle would raise while the speedometer needle stays at 0 mark. After the RPM has reached over 2, the speedometer needle will then slowly raise. Has anyone here experienced this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what may be happening here? This car just had its transmission rebuilt 2 yrs ago @ 125000+ miles, and its catalytic converter replace 1 yr ago. Current mileage is 146000+. Am I facing any another big problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5177" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T18:08:41.390" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T18:08:41.390" Title="During acceleration, tachometer needle raises, but speedometer needle does not raise until RPM hits over 2" Tags="|honda|accord|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9931" CreationDate="2014-06-03T16:21:17.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: It sounds like an O-ring failed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough, I just solved an almost &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/15399775#15399775&quot;&gt;identical set of problems&lt;/a&gt; on my 2004 WRX.  Here's how things played out for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checked AC on the first hot day in a while - sadly, a whole lot of nothing happened.  No cool air, no compressor-caused dip on the voltmeter guage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purchased two seriously overpriced cans of R134A.  &lt;em&gt;Note: NAPA autoparts and I are no longer friends.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Recharged the system on the low-pressure side and observed that new pressures were well within the target range.  Confirmed cold air from AC.  Expressed joy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parked car in garage, returning after about an hour.  Noticed a funny smell and heard a dispiriting hissing.  Noticed that the fitting where the high pressure line leaves the compressor was hissing and bubbling green lubricant.  Expressed frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, the AC was again non-functional.  I didn't see the coughs as the compressor tried to kick in as the system could clearly tell that there was no longer any refrigerant in the system to compress (confirmed with guage).  Perhaps your system is triggering slightly later, giving the compressor a moment to try to turn on and then immediately switch off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I could see the location where the leak was occuring, I decided that there was a good chance that I'd be able to fix the problem.  Based on research, I purchased this set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B000UODUR6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;O-rings&lt;/a&gt; which contains a variety of diameters and thicknesses.  I replaced the O-rings on the low and high pressure sides of the compressor.  This time, I added just enough refrigerant for the compressor to catch and then did an immediate eye-ear-sniff inspection trying to find any remaining leaks.  All seemed well, so I finished off the can and let the car run the compressor for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Net result: O-rings in the right place fixed the leak.  The trick was to find the right place in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T16:21:17.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-03T21:37:07.870" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 volkswagon rabbit.   The sound system has stopped working completely.   I've checked the fuses and none of them are blown.  It is a stock 2008 vw rabbit 4 door which came with the upgraded sound system option.  I did not add any sound system components to it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sound system issue didnt happen randomly.  I woke up one morning to my car battery dead. I went to jump the car and actually i placed the jumper cables in the wrong order.  Meaning i made a closed loop between the two batteries (DOHH!).  I hooked the negative on my battery to the positive on the other guys car battery.  I guess this is what happens after being in a rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways i went to start the car (with the batteries hooked up incorrectly). I actually did turn the key maybe 2 times then realized i was gonna melt the battery if i kept trying. Some observations when trying to start the car with the cables hooked up incorrectly:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the car did not respond at all when turning the key. It seemed to have zero power which makes sense i closed the circuit between the two batteries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When i went to grab the jumper cables to disconnect them they were very hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reconnecting the cables the correct way my car started with no problems. The only issue was that i had no sound system. Not even a flicker and it still has never turned on since.   There does not seem to be any problems with anything else in my car.  all lights turn on fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what brought me to test the fuses but none of them were blown. I'm curious is it still a possibility that there is now a melted ground wire somewhere even without a blown fuse?  How about did i damage the sound system?  Melted some other wire? Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car:  2008 VW Rabbit 4-Door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5181" LastActivityDate="2024-04-05T16:07:05.863" Title="Loss of power to the sound system. Can it be the ground?" Tags="|electrical|vw|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T06:52:09.043" Score="2" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how can i obtain the values of Fuel Consumption, Fuel Economy and other fuel related information from basic OBD-II parameters like &lt;strong&gt;Vehicle Speed, RPM, TPS&lt;/strong&gt; etc. I have noticed that not many vehicles support Fuel related PIDs so i want to obtain these values from  available parameter values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I referred this paper www.sersc.org/journals/IJUNESST/vol4_no4/3.pdf . Formula given here is quite simple but is not universal for all cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastEditorUserId="4224" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T08:52:40.443" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T08:52:40.443" Title="Fuel Consumption and other Fuel related data from basic OBD-II parameters" Tags="|fuel-system|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|rpm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T03:39:17.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9949" CreationDate="2014-06-04T13:52:06.273" Score="0" ViewCount="9122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just recently replaced MAF sensor to fix fuel mix problem. Works great, but now a new problem. It now whines like it's low on power steering, but it's slap full?! I have 0 clue where to even begin to look to find the problem. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T04:22:54.110" Title="Mercedes Benz ML320 Faulty Power Steering whine?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|power-steering|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9937" CreationDate="2014-06-04T16:42:24.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is it's fried. When you hook two batteries up in series (as you did), the resulting voltage is the sum of the battery voltages, so for a few seconds you had a 24V electrical system. I'm surprised the ECU didn't fall over as well, but perhaps it's better protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried entering the unlock code? In my Audi, after I unhook the battery (or it goes dead), my radio displays &quot;CODE&quot;, meaning you have to enter the anti-theft code. Could it be that yours doesn't display anything, but just waits for you to enter it? Check your owner's manual. Hope it's something like that, instead of being broken!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:42:24.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9933" CreationDate="2014-06-04T17:02:38.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the speedometer reading low? Do people regularly ride your bumper and honk at you? If so, then the speedometer needle shaft could be rusty or sticking. If the car actually doesn't move until the tach hits 2K, then I'd suspect your torque converter (or clutch, if it's a manual, but you'd probably notice that slipping at other speeds too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T17:02:38.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6944" CreationDate="2014-06-04T22:45:35.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with an 2004 Caraven turned out to be a bad ground installed ground wire directly from Motor works fine now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5184" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T15:18:13.333" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T15:18:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T13:56:27.523" Score="2" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Chevy s-10 blazer, 2 door LS, 4wd v-6, vortec, 4L60 auto trans, 216,000 miles, not a oil burner or smoker, Whenever I go to climb a steep grade it cannot maintain a steady speed and starts to slow down and shakes then check engine light comes on or when I try to accelerate on a level grade, it hits around 2500 to 3000 RPM and then it starts to shake a little and check engine light comes on flashing for a long time and then finally staying on. It shows (P300) random misfire. Other than that, it starts up and idles fine except shakes a tiny bit because of the 90 degree v-6. I have put many new parts on it to try and nail down the problem. Here is a list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New muffler and catalytic converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(4) new Bosch oxygen sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Delphi egr&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Delphi IAC valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New distributor, cap, rotor, wires, ign module and coil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Delphi fuel pump and filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this was done by a mechanic I know at reputable shop in my area and I'm out of money and options. They have double checked everything from fuel pressure to all of the parts they put on it and even they are stumped as to why this keeps happening. Could this be something as simple as a spark plug because they are the only thing that have not been changed and the set in the truck have approx. 20,000 miles on them. They are Autolites. Could this problem be something very unique to this engine and vehicle model. I've looked for recalls on something like this but no luck. Any Ideas???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5189" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T16:24:52.807" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T01:33:27.827" Title="Chevy S-10 blazer misfire" Tags="|chevrolet|misfire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9895" CreationDate="2014-06-05T14:09:05.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the engine cranks at the first time and then it stopped (like not enough of power), then you're run outta battery. but if the engine cranks but it wouldn't start then you have a problem around your fuel injection system or your igniton system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:09:05.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9754" CreationDate="2014-06-05T14:21:29.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idk about the noise. but, about the idle you could set the idle switch higher. maybe it'll fix a little bit. I have the same problem when i was driving a 1997 Gasoline Pathfider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5190" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:21:29.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2014-06-05T15:16:21.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fluid level is fine and it still whines after you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock 10 times, it could be that air is leaking into the system. You could have put pressure on the reservoir while changing the MAF sensor. Try refitting it with the new o-ring. If that fails, replace the reservoir itself and if that doesn't help, change the steering pump, you may have just been unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T15:16:21.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9946" CreationDate="2014-06-05T18:32:02.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to misfires at high loads, this indicates a lean AFR (too much air/not enough fuel). Of many possibilities, the following reasons are the most likely contenders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;underestimation of the air mass flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to an under-reading MAF (mass air flow) sensor. These sensors tend to foul over time, which makes the fuel management pump in less fuel than what is actually needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may also happen due to unmetered air finding its way into the combustion chambers (thanks Paulster2 for the reminder!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;insufficient fuel delivery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lack of fuel flow could be down to a failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your list of already-replaced parts, I believe the MAF sensor is the most probable culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, post-MAF-sensor air leaks could also be to blame. A thorough inspection of the air intake should be performed before sinking money into a new MAF sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T20:38:28.063" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T20:38:28.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10965" CreationDate="2014-06-06T08:15:59.900" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says BMW's (93 E34 525i M50B25TU) engine misbehaves in low gears, namely in 1st and 2nd, most of the time when the engine is cold but sometimes even when it is properly warmed up. The symptom is that even with half throttle the car either doesn't accelerate or jolts, this usually happens between 2000 and 4000 rpm, after that everything is OK, in 3rd or higher gears this doesn't happen even when the engine is in the critical rpm domain. &#xA;What could be the root cause? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3379" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T18:10:56.753" Title="Engine torque throughput curve is flat or wavy in low gears between 2000 and 4000 rpm" Tags="|engine|bmw|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9960" CreationDate="2014-06-06T17:22:20.380" Score="1" ViewCount="4275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it unnecessary to use both Sea Foam and sta-bil at the same time in two stroke and four stroke engines, or is it advantageous to take advantage of the properties of both? Both products claim to clean internal engine parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T23:56:05.310" Title="Sea Foam vs Sta-bil" Tags="|maintenance|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T20:33:36.107" Score="0" ViewCount="13127" Body="&lt;p&gt;So say there is an automatic transmission in a car. Is there a computer inside the transmission that decides to change gears, or is there a computer in the car that tells the transmission to change gears? If the computer is in the transmission, how does it decide to shift? What about it's in the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5196" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T05:21:06.557" Title="In an automatic transmission, what decides to change gears?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-06-09T11:57:20.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9957" CreationDate="2014-06-07T01:32:14.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the transmission manufacturer and the model of the transmission. In the '80s and before, an automatic transmission was controlled by a vacuum actuator and a cable which ran to the throttle (called a TV cable). Later in the '90s, when electronic engine management came into play, transmissions started being controlled by a main computer in the car (or Powertrain Control Module - PCM). This controlled a lot of aspects of the tranny, to include shifting, line pressures, torque converter lockup and other operations. Sometime later, some manufacturers started dividing the Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Engine Control Module (ECM) back out so there are actually two controllers doing the work, while talking to each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting the gears is dependent on several different factors, such as engine load, throttle position, speed of the vehicle, engine speed, etc. Every manufacturer does it a little different, so I won't try to go into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T01:32:14.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9956" CreationDate="2014-06-07T01:56:30.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sta-Bil and Seafoam are made to do do two different things, but there is some overlap. If you are regularly driving or using a vehicle, there is no real need to utilize Sta-Bil. Its purpose is to keep moisture from contaminating the fuel. Moisture is the main enemy of fuel. When you are burning through your fuel on a regular basis, it won't have time to absorb much moisture so it won't contaminate your fuel. I have never heard of Sta-Bil causing engines any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of Seafoam is to clean the intake tract (to include injectors) of the engine. It does a little bit of fuel stabilization, just like Sta-Bil does a bit of engine cleaning. There is no need to use both at the same time, though it wouldn't hurt anything if you did. I routinely use Sta-Bil in the gas for my generator and other small power equipment. It keeps fuel good for at least two years. I use Seafoam only when I need to clean the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T23:56:05.310" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T23:56:05.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9957" CreationDate="2014-06-07T05:21:06.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine speed : Only if engine spped is high enough it can shift to next gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed of car:It will not downshift unless spped of car is lesser, else the engine will over rev&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Load on Engine:If load is too high, then it must use a lower gear to obtain the required pull. Like on slopes, or a heavier car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal position:If your pedal is floored, you directly order the engine to downshift for quick power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from this there are some automatics there which learn your driving patterns.&#xA;Then there are AMTs..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T05:21:06.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-07T07:03:09.390" Score="1" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Lancer 2007 has steering wheel and body vibration while driving above 60 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced all 4 tyres, polished the rotors, balancing &amp;amp; alignment but still the problem not solved. What could be the troubled part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5199" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T10:28:19.557" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T09:59:24.823" Title="Lancer 2007 vibrates at 60+ mph" Tags="|vibration|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10968" CreationDate="2014-06-07T12:09:28.670" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a car with an automatic transmission, so I always wondered about how stick shift works. For example, say you are driving at 50 mph at 4th gear. When you want to slow down to a stop, do you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just let go of the gas pedal, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let go of the gas pedal and shift to neutral, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let go of the gas pedal and shift to lower gear? If so, to the first gear immediately, or in steps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4092" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T05:38:43.333" Title="Operating stick shift" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-06-09T11:59:57.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-07T17:50:55.990" Score="1" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;All, I'm trying to calibrate a smartphone fuel consumption application on my vehicle, a 2009 Ford Fusion SE with the I-4 engine. I want to get a &quot;control&quot; varible to compare against the mileage readings I'm getting from Torque's Fuel Efficiency plugin. In order to do this, I want to have exactly one gallon of fuel in the tank, and see how many miles I can drive until it runs out of gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, it seems I cannot rely on the Fusion's message center to give me the real number. The message center's &quot;Miles to E&quot; feature says I have 0 miles left until empty, but I know that the car has fuel in reserve. According to the guy at CarQuest, Ford usually gives about 2 gallons worth of reserve fuel after you've hit &quot;empty&quot;. Can anyone confirm this, or give me the actual amout that's held in reserve on the 2009 I-4 Fusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5201" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T10:13:40.730" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T10:15:08.603" Title="&quot;Reserve&quot; on 2009 Ford Fusion SE Range Calculator?" Tags="|ford|fuel-consumption|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T16:05:58.893" Score="1" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nissan : Altima : 2007 : USA with OEM 215/60R16 Tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Context/Information: When I took my car to Belle Tire. I had them switch out my winter tires and do an alignment check. I told the service attendant, that if the measurements warrented the alignment; that I would okay the job. I left to go run errands. Belle Tire ended up calling my wife, even though I left my number. The service attendant she spoke to said, &amp;quot;The car is ready and the alignment is done.&amp;quot; She thought I had agreed to the job, and she only notified me that the car was ready to be picked up.&#xA;When I arrived the service attendant, from earlier notified me that my wife had agreed to the alignment, which struck me as odd. I sat down, then called her and got the facts straight. Got up, went to talk to the service attendant once again, informing him he was incorrect. I paid and left not feeling to good about the customer service.&#xA;Once home I looked at the bill...$84.90 for a wheel alignment. I looked over the specs *below. Noticed that all they did an adjustment to was the Toe. Which the front right was only out of specified range by 0.05 degrees. My question is now, should I go back and talk to a manager? I feel taken advantage of and not treated properly since I never asked for this job to be done. I'm not mechanicly inclined either: did my car really need an alignment done that badly (personally I would have said &amp;quot;no&amp;quot; when they presented me this data).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Measurements in degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BXRLY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5203" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T23:20:47.523" Title="Wheel alignment. Should I have said something?" Tags="|nissan|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10971" CreationDate="2014-06-08T16:29:20.037" Score="2" ViewCount="1842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to remove the wiper arms from a Renault Megane '98 hatch 1.6e engine. So far I tried opening the protection cap and unscrewing the nut from the bolt that the arm is attached to. I expected this to be enough, but the arms don't really loosened or moved after. They're either stuck to the metal or there is another trick to it. Has anyone done this, so they can confirm which one is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I'm trying to remove the wiper arms to replace the cabin ventilation fan/engine under them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T11:10:59.210" Title="Removing wipers arms from Megane Hatch 1.6e MK1" Tags="|windshield-wipers|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9951" CreationDate="2014-06-08T18:10:56.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the VANOS seal has failed.  The M50TU has a single VANOS that adjusts cam timing at a single point based on RPM.  Here is a good article describing the failure symptoms and the repair procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_single_procedure.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_single_procedure.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6203" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T18:10:56.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9965" CreationDate="2014-06-08T20:38:15.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your post it appears that you in fact got the alignment you paid for. Whether you authorized it is a matter of semantics. In many cases the majority of the labor involved with doing an alignment is getting the vehicle on the alignment rack and taking the measurements. I have never heard of anyone checking the alignment for free unless they are just looking at the tires and speculating based on tire wear. By asking to check the alignment you did in fact authorize them to put the vehicle on the rack and take the necessary measurements to determine if the alignment was necessary. Did you expect them to do this for free? Granted they should have explained this to you beforehand. As you can tell by looking at the sheet the tolerances are quite specific. We are talking about 10ths of a degree of change. Those small changes can make huge differences in tire wear. If your winter tires were on for a significant time check and see if you can see differences in the tire wear. It may be very slight, but over time it makes a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T20:38:15.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T01:49:45.423" Score="3" ViewCount="20533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Camry V6 with 149,000 miles. My check engine light is on. The code is P1135 Bank1 Sensor1. I purchased an Upstream O2 sensor (Bosch) from AutoZone and changed the front one (right behind the fan) and reset the code. The check engine light went off for a brief moment. But, after a few second the light came back on. I went back to AutoZone, and the sales person told me that often both sensors go bad and suggested I change the rear Upstream O2 sensor as well, which cost another $130. I wanted to see if that's truly the problem and should I go ahead and change it. Please help. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6205" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T05:24:43.150" Title="2002 Toyota Camry V6 Check Engine Light Code P1135" Tags="|camry|p1135|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9963" CreationDate="2014-06-09T05:38:43.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try to answer this from a mechanical perspective, detailing why a vehicle must/should be operated in a specific way. Before I start with the answer, I must explain that neutral isn't a gear but the absence of any gear. That is, the vehicle is &quot;out of gear.&quot; In layman's terms, this allows the engine to spin freely without being connected to the wheels. If one were to attempt to stop without either dropping the transmission into neutral (#2 in your question) or sequentially downshifting then going into neutral just before stopping (#3 in your question), the engine would stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To slow to a complete stop the &quot;textbook procedure&quot; (according to the DMV in my state) is to slow down and downshift sequentially until to a crawl, at which point one would take the vehicle out of gear (into &quot;neutral&quot;). One reason not to rely on engine braking (downshifting) or braking alone is to not put excessive wear and tear on only one of the vehicle's components (especially on a downgrade). Another would be safety, by downshifting as opposed to coasting the vehicle is in gear and the driver is able to apply power to the wheels if need be in an emergency situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also affects the point at which one should downshift when slowing/stopping. I like to downshift just before the tachometer (RPM gauge) is down to the point it rests when idling. When changing gears, the speed at which the wheels are turning will not match the speed at which the engine is turning, because of the different ratios of the new gears that have been selected. It does stress the engine, clutch, transmission, and other components (synchros especially) to shift when there is an extreme mismatch between the speeds of the wheels and the engine. So shifting into first at 70 MPH would cause bad things to happen, if you could even manage to get it into gear; the engine might rev up past the redline and severe internal damage might occur. I've heard people refer to these as &quot;money shifts,&quot; because it will cost you a lot to repair the damage done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note, most new automatic transmission cars have little computers in them that manage the shifting for you (early automatics used hydraulic pressures alone in the transmission to manage shifting). The computer's rev-limiter function knows the engine speed and will prevent you from ever being able to hit (or surpass) the redline, even going so far as to cut the flow of fuel to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first answer here and I hope it helps you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6206" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T05:38:43.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9964" CreationDate="2014-06-09T10:02:54.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nate Eldredge says, running the car totally out of fuel is usually a bad idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better method of doing the same thing is the full-to-full test - fill the tank completely, drive for a known distance, then fill it again (ideally using the same pump, as they don't all 'click' off at exactly the same point). You then know the amount of fuel used for that distance, and so can calculate your efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T10:02:54.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9962" CreationDate="2014-06-09T11:00:29.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; still be caused by your wheel(s) being out of balance. Two things you can do to see if it is still your issue. First, take it somewhere they can balance your tires for a higher speed. Sometimes the &quot;normal&quot; balance is not quite enough to get them right. If you get the tires balanced for something over 70mph, it may help your issue. Secondly, something besides your wheel/tire may be causing the issue. One (or more) of your rotors (assuming four wheel disk brakes) may be out of balance, causing the same issue as a wheel/tire out of balance. To alleviate this issue, you can do a &quot;tire-on balancing&quot;, where they run the tires while on the vehicle to check the balance, then apply the proper weights to combat any out of balance situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T11:00:29.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9966" CreationDate="2014-06-09T11:10:59.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you have the nut off of the wiper arm, you may need a small puller to get the arm off. These have a splined mount with an interference, which means, as you tighten them down they become more tightly wedged onto the mount. By using a puller, it should pop right off. The puller used for these have long thin puller arms, so not like a puller you'd have for pulling gears off. It might look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ACX8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image From Amazon.com&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also look something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooUIn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image from Amazon.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T11:10:59.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2014-06-09T11:13:56.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to have your computer &quot;un-learn&quot; the old O2 sensor. Unplug the battery for about 30 minutes. This will reset your computer back to factory, where it will then have to relearn the new O2 sensor and might alleviate the situation. You will probably not know for several warm-up cycles if this actual solves the issue for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, did you double check to ensure you received the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; O2 sensor? Another thought is that the new O2 sensor might be bad. It would not be the first time this has happened. Here is what the code for P1135 is telling you (&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1135_toyota.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from Engine-Codes.com&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Possible causes&#xA;  - Faulty Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1&#xA;  - Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted&#xA;  - Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection&#xA;  - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)&#xA;  Help with Possible causes What does this mean?&#xA;  When is the code detected?&#xA;  The P1135 is set when the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects a heated oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction&#xA;  Possible symptoms&#xA;  - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)&#xA;  P1135 Toyota Description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F)sensor need to reach a minimum operating temperature of 1200 degrees F to produce an accurate voltage signal. The faster the air-fuel ratio sensor reaches that temperature the faster the sensor will start sending an accurate signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to achieve the require temperature, a heater element is included inside the air-fuel ratio sensor. The ECM controls the air-fuel ratio sensor heater element based on signals from the engine coolant temperature and engine load. The ECM controls the heater element circuit by allowing current flow to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ECM monitors the voltage signal received through the heater element circuit and determines the state of the circuit by comparing the voltage detected with the factory specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T11:20:29.413" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T11:20:29.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T13:42:52.853" Score="3" ViewCount="3225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2005 Nissan UD 245 series truck. It runs well, no smoke, no water in engine but when I open the radiator capp I found a fair bit of oil in the water. I flushed the radiator and filled it up with new coolant and ran it for 20 minutes only to find loads of oil in the radiator again?&#xA;Could I have a problem with my oil cooler, water pump or do i have  a blown head gasket or a cracked engine...I need some basic advice before i rush off to mechanic and open my wallet.&#xA;you help is much needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6209" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T15:01:43.573" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:12:48.497" Title="Oil in Radiator but not in the oil and no smoke or overheating...why and what does it mean?" Tags="|oil|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2014-06-09T15:12:48.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you have an oil leak. Where it's at you won't know until you (or your trusted mechanic) tears into it to figure it out. You could test your oil cooler theory by bypassing the cooler (I'm assuming your cooler is inside of the radiator?). Your problem, like you said, could be the cooler, a head gasket leak, or a crack somewhere ... I would put them in this order of probability, though. It would not be the water pump as in most every engine I've seen there isn't any oil passages going to it, just coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as water not being in the oil, just remember that oil pressure is usually 20+ psi, while a radiator cap only keeps about 16 psi. If there is a leak, the first direction it's going to go is from the oil into the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:12:48.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T16:36:09.980" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was raining, and I was on a Motor Way, driving at about 100 mph and approaching 110. It was an automatic Volkswagen Passat, 12K miles old. The car started behaving weirdly, and it started shaking left right about 3-4 times, before I got it back under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have never experienced this before, and have driven other (smaller) cars up to 125 mph. I wouldn't be able to give much info about the car, since I was renting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the possible reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastEditorUserId="108" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T11:48:08.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T11:48:08.800" Title="Volkswagen Passat went out of control" Tags="|vw|automatic-transmission|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10976" CreationDate="2014-06-09T16:46:41.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a simple case of driving too fast in the rain.  There's only so much water that tires can push out of the way, and the effectiveness drops as the tires wear, water depth increases, and speed increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T16:46:41.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10981" CreationDate="2014-06-09T19:07:30.273" Score="13" ViewCount="12056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is any benefit behind double-clicking when using a mechanical torque wrench. Could it be that some folks do it to compensate for slack in the ratcheting mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, would I lose anything if I torqued down with just a single click?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/9UXftuZcEO4?t=12m30s&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T19:13:08.150" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T14:12:29.877" Title="Is double-clicking a mechanical torque wrench just a habit?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T20:51:55.460" Score="1" ViewCount="930" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is displaying the engine management light on the dash. &#xA;To date my mechanic has replaced a pencil coil and cleaned the airflow meter. &#xA;First he said it was the lambda sensor that was not connected correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car shakes and shudders on start up. Sometimes it revs itself to 2000 without me pressing the accelerator. When I take off the car has no power and struggles to go faster that 20mph. After approx 3-5miles it seems to jerk then normal power resumes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much for any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T21:08:06.700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T17:02:49.753" Title="2002 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF CL 1.4 - No power for first 3 mins driving" Tags="|vw|power|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10978" CreationDate="2014-06-09T21:06:00.033" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Double checking your torque is never a bad thing.&lt;/strong&gt; The only thing you lose is a half second of your time. Peace of mind is what it's all about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons for doing this, though,  might be when you are torquing, the fastener itself becomes slightly bound up, not giving a perfectly correct reading. By double clicking, you are allowing the fastener to &lt;em&gt;rest&lt;/em&gt; for a second, then you are back at it to get the proper amount of torque there. This is the only other reason besides habit I can tell you why someone would do this. I almost always double check my torque, but usually only when I'm doing something in a sequence. I hardly ever &lt;em&gt;double click&lt;/em&gt; while I'm applying torque unless there is only a single fastener involved. &lt;strong&gt;It doesn't mean either method is wrong or right, just that people have different ways of doing things.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note, remember that when torquing with a click type torque wrench, you can easily &lt;em&gt;over torque&lt;/em&gt; your fastener by doing things too fast. You can go by the torque setting of a click type torque wrench without even thinking about. Slow, methodical movements are what you want to achieve. You want to be just on the verge of stopping the twisting motion at a moments (clicks) notice. Too often while at a tire shop (Merchants, NTB, whatever), I'll see the guys rocking the car to assist (well what they think is assisting) in the torque process, which will actually over torque a lug nut without too much issue. The only time I'm sure they are giving it the right torque is when I see them using a torque stick, which provides only one set torque value. These tools give way when the proper torque is achieved, insuring you cannot over torque. I will most often loosen and retorque my lug nuts after I get home just to ensure it was done correctly ... at which point I find that most of them are torqued all over the place, only proving my point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T21:06:00.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T18:52:33.740" Score="5" ViewCount="4528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra.  When I am at speed, usually in 3rd or so, and I am coming to a stop, I disengage the clutch, brake, and coast to a stop, with the shifter still in gear.  As I do this, shortly after disengaging the clutch I hear a grinding/whirring sound that is pretty dramatic as the car's speed falls below the gear's range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recreate the sound, it does cease when I pop it into neutral. I can either disengage or engage the clutch at this point; it doesn't seem to make a difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking that I was having a cluth-dragging problem, I replaced both cylinders and put in new fluid (the play in the clutch pedal warranted the change anyways).  While fixing a soft clutch-pedal issue, it did not fix the problem with coasting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that the synchro gear was going, but wanted to have a second opinion.  Any chance that I can simply avoid leaving it in gear while coasting down and avoid having to get this fixed ($$$?)?  What did I do to cause this thing to go bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question simply put is: what is the problem, and can I go for long with it the way it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:25:54.460" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:25:54.460" Title="Manual Transmission Whirs when coasting down, clutch disengaged, shifter in gear" Tags="|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|xterra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:21:57.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two distinct symptoms here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine sputters only when in &quot;cold-start&quot; mode and struggles to run smoothly. When the engine is deemed &quot;warm&quot; the issue goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine sometimes revs up to 2000 RPM at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your Golf runs a Bosch fuel management system, there are a few likely causes for this behaviour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unmetered air&lt;/strong&gt; is entering the engine through some air leaks. This could be due to a leaking gasket, seal or hole in the intake tract that may not necessarily be visible to the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A faulty/failing idle speed stabilizer&lt;/strong&gt;. This would prevent the idle speed from staying constant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the information provided in the question, I believe the latter possibility is more likely to be the cause for your troubles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T20:21:57.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T04:31:32.197" Score="16" ViewCount="230108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used car, and it didn't come with any jumper cables, so I'm going to buy some. I briefly looked around at a store and online, and there seems to be a wide variety of prices and specifications. These are the particular specs I've seen variation in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length of cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gauge (thickness) of wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material of clip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of insulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any significant practical differences between different materials used in jumper cables? How can I determine what gauge wire I need? Is there anything else I should consider when selecting a set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note: I'm not looking for specific recommendations, I'm just trying to get a sense for what types of specs I should look at and how I can determine what specs are needed for a particular vehicle.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6218" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:58:31.467" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:58:31.467" Title="How do I determine what type of jumper cable I should carry?" Tags="|electrical|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2014-06-11T07:12:02.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter all that much. The more expensive cables will probably last longer, but unless you plan on keeping the car for more than 10 years, I'd just go with the second cheapest set. My own personal rule of thumb being that the second-cheapest option of anything is usually the best value for money. The cheapest one will break and the most expensive one will not be so much better that it justifies the extra money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T07:12:02.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T07:52:14.627" Score="6" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the 2002 German version of the Corsa, it wasn't made here in America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works fine for the first 10 km or so, then it'll suddenly stop accelerating, as if I weren't even pressing the pedal, and I have to restart the machine and it'd work again, for at least other 100-500 meters before failing again. It usually happens when I release the clutch to shift gears, or when I stop accelerating and try to accelerate again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already changed the oil, the fuel and oil filters as well as the sparks, the injection system is clean. I've also checked the pedal and it's ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since tried with about 5 different people who claim they know how to use a scanner but all of them but one said the scanner didn't find anything, the last one, however, noted that it was receving bad signals from almost all sensors, so he thinks the computer is actually bad. I also asked Scotty Kilmer at his Youtube channel and he also suggested it may be a faulty computer. So I think it may be the issue, wether it can be repaired by &quot;re-flashing&quot; it or it should be replaced I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9866/gas-pedal-not-responding&quot;&gt;Gas pedal not responding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5130" LastEditorUserId="5130" LastEditDate="2019-09-22T19:28:23.773" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T19:28:23.773" Title="Chevrolet Corsa doesn't accelerate until I restart the engine" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2014-06-11T11:01:41.153" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing to look at for me is the gauge of the wire. The reason I bring this up is, the higher the gauge (numerically) the thinner the wire. Thinner wire will require your jump-start procedure to take more time, as it takes a while to charge the battery before you'll have enough juice to get it running. Thinner wire cannot pass enough amperage to start a vehicle. You'll find when trying to jump another car, the wire can get warm during the attempt. This is because it's trying to pass more juice than the wire can handle. With thicker wires you can actually start the vehicle directly from the running vehicle with little to no wait time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also find that the larger gauge (lower number numerically) will have longer cable lengths, which will allow you to go battery-to-battery more easily in more and varied situations. I bought a set of 2-gauge cables over 20 years ago which continue to service me today. They are about 20' long, which gets me from battery-to-battery very easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the cost of cables goes up as the wire gets thicker, you'll also notice the quality of clamps get better as well. Cheap wires have cheap clamps, which are a pain-in-the-butt to use as well as they are less likely to stand up to time. Cheap clamps are copper plated. Better clamps will be solid copper, which will transmit electricity much better. After utilizing a plated set a few time, the copper can be worn off down to the steel substrate, which does not transmit the electricity nearly as well, meaning your cables won't work very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insulation is no different as to the gauge of wire. The thicker wire, the better the insulation. If you live in a cold climate, cheaper insulation will usually crack very easily. Better insulation will retain its pliability while you uncoil and recoil it during/after use. Cheap insulation will not want to straighten out, making them very hard to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, jumper cables are one of those purchases where you get what you pay for ... don't skimp out on them and you will never regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T11:01:41.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2014-06-11T11:48:44.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like one of your main bearings is going out in your transmission, either at the front or the back of the transmission (probably the front). When your transmission is under load (clutch engaged, in gear), you won't necessarily hear it. Load can happen either during acceleration or deceleration. If you are &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; paying attention and it is loud enough, you might hear the noise for the brief moment when the vehicle goes between acceleration and deceleration, as there isn't any load on it at that point. Why does the noise quit when under load? Because the load will take up the slack and won't allow the bearing to vibrate which is the noise you are probably hearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably didn't do anything to cause this to happen. With all mechanical things, they can just wear out. I don't know if the Nissan's are prone to this kind of problem, so who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way you might be able to figure out if it's the front bearing is if, while moving where you'd normally hear the noise, put the transmission in neutral and push the clutch peddle in. If the noise disappears, it's probably the front main bearing. If the noise continues, it's probably the back main bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the problem, describing longevity is problematic. It could last for a 100 miles or it could last for the life of the vehicle. It will probably last until you can get it looked at, but you never know. Remember, this diagnosis is just a best guess from the description which you've given. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T11:48:44.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10992" CreationDate="2014-06-11T15:39:51.817" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have new radio and AC units for my 2001 Subaru Legacy L Station Wagon but I do not know how to install them. It seems more complicated than I expected. Does anyone knows of a good tutorial or manual on how to remove and replace those two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T18:01:20.400" Title="Anyone knows of a tutorial on how to remove/replace the radio and AC unit in a 2001 Subaru Legacy?" Tags="|ac|subaru|replace|audio|legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2014-06-11T17:39:26.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just add more ground/earth cables, wherever you can. Shorter the better too.&#xA;Ive added a larger battery to chassis, battery to block and everywhere that makes sense/is out of site, ive added in more chassis to block cables etc...&#xA;Every bit extra helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6221" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T17:39:26.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10990" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:01:20.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the radio goes, you can use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://how.coffee/how-to/how-to-replace-the-stock-radio-in-a-2001-subaru-legacy-l-station-wagon-with-step-by-step-pictures/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt;. If you just want to replace the AC front panel box I am sure you can figure it out using the same tutorial. But as said in the comments, if you want to work with the AC unit itself, better take it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T18:01:20.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10994" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:51:13.120" Score="1" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Daihatsu Copen has had it's blow off valve upgraded - from the stock BoV to a Pusshun RSS BoV as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oqiZvSWAxU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oqiZvSWAxU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, at medium RPMs (~3k rpm), I can hear some sort of low sounding &quot;gurgling&quot; coming from what I am assuming is the BoV. At high RPMs, the BoV works as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/strong&gt; If not, what should I check, apart from ensuring all the hoses are all in place? &lt;strong&gt;Am I causing any engine damage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:19:39.257" Title="Gurgling sound from blow off valve at medium RPM" Tags="|aftermarket-upgrade|daihatsu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10993" CreationDate="2014-06-11T19:23:54.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger#Anti-surge.2Fdump.2Fblow_off_valves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blow-off valve&lt;/a&gt; in question, it's pretty clear that the vendor really wants you to hear anything that the valve is doing.  It's venting overboost to atmosphere through a little trumpet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55X5O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An example of the blow-off valve in question&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your description, my suspicion is that you're hearing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve#Operation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the piston&lt;/a&gt; (shown in the image) partially opening the vent port.  This could happen in a situation of part throttle / partial boost situation that's sufficient to cause the piston to move but not quite enough for the classic FFFFSSSHHH blow-off valve sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUXP8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An example of the piston retracted&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't sound like compressor surge.  In that case, you'd hear a rhythmic repeating chirp (or other descriptive word) after slamming shut the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to reproduce this situation with the help of a friend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the hood open, have your friend open the throttle wide and quickly slam it shut.  You should hear the immediate whoosh of a full blow from the valve.  &lt;em&gt;NOTE: For those who understand turbos, I know that the wastegate usually won't let the turbo spin up if the engine isn't under load.  Enough boost should be generated to trigger the valve, though.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you've heard the full blow, have your friend try progressively decreasing throttle settings.  I suspect that you'll eventually hear the whoosh turn into the gurgling sound that you describe where the piston doesn't fully open.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If neither of those work, try modulating throttle while driving in too high a gear.  There won't be enough exhaust volume for the turbo to reach full speed.  You might be able to find the exact setting where the piston partially opens.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T18:19:39.257" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:19:39.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2268" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:33:52.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, and I've also had problems with certain mp3 files.  Here are the steps that usually fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Make sure the encoding is 192kbps or lower&#xA;2) Make sure there are no non-ASCII characters in the tag fields, or better yet, eliminate the tags altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6226" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T14:33:52.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2014-06-12T20:28:25.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the fuel pressure regulator if it is not popping a code. easy way to check is to start the engine and let it idle till it starts to run rough and press the fuel pressure release&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T20:28:25.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-13T08:02:40.040" Score="3" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just had the brake pads replaced on my Skoda Fabia- apparently they'd worn very thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now when I brake I have to push down much harder on the brake pedal than before. Is this to be expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6231" LastEditorUserId="6231" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T08:12:59.847" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T10:55:16.617" Title="Should replacing the brake pads make braking feel &quot;softer&quot;?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2014-06-13T09:42:16.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It sounds like there maybe air in the hydraulic system and it will therefore need bleeding. This could have happened for many reasons when they pushed back the pistons to replace the brake pads. I would take it back to wherever you had the brake pads changed and complain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:42:16.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2014-06-13T09:58:06.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would leave this as a comment, but I cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The button on the BMW key is a light. There should be a bulb visible next to the metal key section. To open it up, press the button and slide the inner assembly out. You should see the battery, bulb and contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the aftermarket fob, I would agree with Juann Strauss that the buttons are lock/unlock and arm/disarm the alarm - but this is purely a guess without knowing the brand or model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6232" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:58:06.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6226" CreationDate="2014-06-13T11:22:22.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also own an outback (04) and I have the option to place any amp fuse in the AWD slot located in the fuse box in the engine compartment. This fuse will disengage the rear differential allowing my car to be a front wheel drive only car. This is typically used when there's a flat tire and the spare tire is used. I recommend this for towing as well. Your owners Manuel has this info available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T11:22:22.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-13T12:06:40.933" Score="3" ViewCount="9211" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update 06/23/2014&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One week later, this noise is now very, very loud, even when I don't decelerate. As soon as I put the 5th gear and clutch, it vibrates whether I accelerate or not. It's like if the gearbox was going to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a french car (Renault Scénic) with a manual gearbox (that's not the problem ;) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm in 5th gear - and only 5th - and I remove my foot from the accelerator pedal, there is a continuous very loud noise, like if all the engine block was vibrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to reproduce the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5th gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foot off the accelerator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it end, I either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerate (even if accelerate a very very little, the noise ends as soon as the engine drives the gearbox)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;De-clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guess where the noise comes from?&#xA;Could it be the little metal bar under the card, linked to the gear lever that could vibrate against another part only when it's pushed far to the left (5th gear)?&#xA;Could it be the gearing inside the gearbox?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6233" LastEditorUserId="6233" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T07:20:37.260" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T07:20:37.260" Title="What could make a noise when I decelerate with a manual gearbox?" Tags="|engine|noise|renault|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11008" CreationDate="2014-06-13T23:38:21.127" Score="3" ViewCount="2561" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 Honda Civic quit starting today. For the past week I have heard it starting up slower than usual. What would usually be an instant startup took 2-3 seconds. Today when I attempted to start it up, I hear it turn over but it won't fully start. Other than the issue starting up, I haven't had any noticeable problems driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it may be a dead/dying battery. I can leave it in Start (II) and see lights on the dash, and the A/C powers on, but I noticed the radio says &quot;Enter Code&quot;. Since the radio was working 2 days ago, I assume it ran out of power at some point. When I go to Ignition (III) I can hear it cranking but it gets noticeably weaker the longer I let it turn over. I stopped attempting to start it after a couple of tries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it most likely a battery problem? Can I get a jump and take it to a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6238" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T10:14:21.310" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:14:21.310" Title="My 2010 Honda Civic cranks but won't start" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11006" CreationDate="2014-06-14T10:26:04.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it most likely a battery problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Weak cranking is a tell-tale sign. The radio most likely needs a certain voltage to remain operational, so your observations point to a weak battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I get a jump and take it to a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T10:26:04.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8597" CreationDate="2014-06-15T00:29:16.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 options :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the pump that pressures the gasoil into the circuit (this pump is just inside one of the rear passenger seats, just over the oil tank) is dead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an electrical relay that activates that pump is dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you here a little sound that lasts for 1 or 2 seconds when you turn on your car (lights on, but engine off). Like the sound of a little motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this problem exists, you don't hear that little sound anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads your car to stall &amp;amp; totally get off once the diesel level dumps below 1/4 of the tank capacity. When you are near the 1/4, driving uphill, or turning very fast on the left (centrifugal force) artificially increase the effect of the problem by driving the diesel away from the conduit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is just to replace the pump or the relay that activates it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T00:29:16.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11011" CreationDate="2014-06-15T02:42:42.347" Score="3" ViewCount="3424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what the structure is that is circled in red. I thought that it was to increase air to the engine and make it look it slick, but I was told it wasn't. What is the structure on this dodge charger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnzB4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T22:49:02.007" Title="What is this structure on the hood and what is its purpose" Tags="|car|old-cars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11010" CreationDate="2014-06-15T02:55:49.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed a hood scoop used to allow fresh clean air to enter the engine. For this application, the air filter was made to sit high enough to allow it to poke through the hood and was visible from the front. Here is a picture of what the under hood should look like (this is a Coronet, but should be something similar):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/984aO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the black portion attached to the bottom of the hood, it seals the air filter unit so it only sucks the fresh outside air being ducted by the hood scoop. I believe this option was only on the Hemi powered models, but not sure about that. Also, you will see a lot of regular Chargers/Challengers with fiberglass reproduction hoods, which may not have the ducting present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T11:26:54.587" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T11:26:54.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11015" CreationDate="2014-06-15T16:45:33.160" Score="2" ViewCount="1600" Body="&lt;p&gt;In another question I confirmed what a hood scoop was. I was also wondering what this structure was since it was differently shaped than a hood scoop. I heard it was a &quot;turbocharger&quot; or something like that and that it helped to shove air into the engine and speed the car up. What is it? What's its purpose and do they still make them? Also what cars feature it? I saw it on a Charger and I think other new ones but I am not sure since a lot of turbochargers don't look like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsOoV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T11:44:28.753" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:23:23.597" Title="What is this protrusion on this Dodge Charger and what is its purpose" Tags="|dodge|part-identification|charger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11014" CreationDate="2014-06-15T19:57:47.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a roots style supercharger. Unlike the turbocharger you mention, the supercharger (or &quot;blower&quot;) is driven directly by the crankshaft of the engine, via a large belt. Turbos use the exhaust gases to perform the same task. The task at hand is to force more air into the engine than the engine could normally suck in on its own. By doing this, it makes the engine &quot;think&quot; it is bigger than it it actually is and thus produce more horsepower in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what one looks like up close:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qmUR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one on an engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAr5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These do not come stock on cars directly from the factory. They are an aftermarket add-on. Some cars come with different versions of superchargers (like the Pontiac Grand Prix GTP), but nothing like the one you show in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roots_supercharger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Wiki article&lt;/a&gt; appears to have a lot of answers for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T23:46:04.063" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T23:46:04.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11018" CreationDate="2014-06-15T20:08:59.690" Score="1" ViewCount="1231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been researching turbochargers and since they use outside air and exhaust to improve engine function couldn't that harm the engine? Or do I not understand the principle? Can't particules from the air that is gathered by the turbocharger harm the engine or is there a air filter in place that would stop this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="6237" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T23:55:51.403" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T10:08:24.783" Title="Can turbochargers cause engine damage gathering dirt and other particles from the air" Tags="|troubleshooting|exhaust|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T21:05:42.273" Score="3" ViewCount="3817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very odd problem with my steering on my 08 Mazda 3 Takara. I've had it since January now and to be honest have never been happy with the steering. I've got a couple of problems with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Steering wheel vibration at speeds over 60mph. This doesn't seem to get any better or worse the faster or slower I go over this speed. I'm also convinced that I can feel the vibration through the car, however this is probably more so because I'm always the one driving it and therefore can feel the vibration through my arm. This is probably the most annoying problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The steering seems way too easily affected by bumps in the road. For instance, if I'm driving over a uneven or unperfect road service, the wheel will greatly shake from side to side (at any speed). Again, it doesn't make it unmanageable to drive, it's just hugely annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try and fix these problems I have had the alignment done at TWO different garages. Now what is odd is that at both garages, when I first drove the car away the alignment was way off. However when taking it back and stating it wasn't correct, both garages seem to have made it better. Despite this, I'm still convinced the wheel isn't dead center and the car drifts to the left a tiny bit. I also had the second garage check the balancing on all the wheels and they said that it was a little bit off and they corrected it. However £100 later (two allignments) the issue is still just as bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shame because I really like the car however I'll be thinking about selling it if I can't get this fixed because it completely ruins the drive of the car for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6245" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T12:06:06.617" Title="Steering Problem on Mazda 3" Tags="|mazda|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11016" CreationDate="2014-06-16T00:06:54.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only cars with turbocharges which do not have air filters are race cars. They do it this way so there is absolutely no restrictions on the intake tract. Race engines are routinely rebuilt as needed, so are not worried about small particulates entering the engine. Normal street driven vehicles will all have air filters on them, and as long as those air filters are replaced under normal maintenance, no harm from particulates will come during normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T00:06:54.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2014-06-16T12:55:28.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering everything you've said to this point, it sounds like you have a bearing going out in your transmission. With your mileage, it wouldn't be unheard of. I would definitely have a respectable transmission shop in your area take a look at it. If it is a bearing, they can replace just the bearing (and any other worn part such as synchros and clutch -- &quot;soft parts&quot;) at the same time. Even if these parts are not completely bad, labor would not be much more because everything is being pulled apart anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T12:55:28.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T18:43:21.510" Score="0" ViewCount="36621" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to air condition my 2005 toyota car without running the car? I would like to travel in my car but because of health issues I would need to be able to sleep in my car also, or at least rest for long periods.  I have read about the extra battery to power computer, etc. But if it's hot, is a battery powerful enough to run an air conditioner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6246" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T17:05:29.803" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T17:05:29.803" Title="How to run air conditioning with car off" Tags="|battery|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11020" CreationDate="2014-06-16T19:02:21.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a normal car, there is no way to run the A/C without running the car. To make the A/C work, it requires a compressor to act on the refrigerant, and the compress runs off of the engine, not the battery. Even with a spare battery, this would not work. You would have to have an aftermarket A/C unit installed which might run off of a battery, but I don't know of any for automotive use which doesn't involve punching a hole in the roof of your car and attaching a unit there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T19:02:21.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11023" CreationDate="2014-06-16T20:43:21.837" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope this isn't a poor question for the site but I came across this camaro online but don't know much about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRt9f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose a plus would be that when other's do a search for this picture mechanics.SE will pop up with specs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T19:20:15.027" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T19:20:15.027" Title="What year Camaro is this?" Tags="|chevrolet|camaro|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11022" CreationDate="2014-06-16T20:51:12.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocity.com/tv-shows/overhaulin/videos/1967-camaro.htm&quot;&gt;Overhaulin'&lt;/a&gt;. The sign in the background is the clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I guess I could tell you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot longer looking. So since you know it's a 1st gen, you should know the 1st gen covers the years of 67-69. To figure out which year specifically it is, the first thing to look at are the wheel wells. The 69 has squarish wells, while the 67-68 have round wells which follows the tires quite well. Looking at this one, you can see they are very much round. To tell the difference between the 67-68, look to see if it has a wing window on the door (just behind and inline with the A-pillar). The 67 has one while the 68 does not. There really isn't too much of a difference between them otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T01:10:12.227" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T01:10:12.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11010" CreationDate="2014-06-16T22:49:02.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Another use case for similar structure:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be used to increase intercooler air circulation with turbocharged vehicles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intercooling is a method used to compensate for heating caused by&#xA;supercharging&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intercooler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intercooler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N7m9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;intercooler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it does not have anything to do with engine air intake (&lt;em&gt;other than cooling down intake air&lt;/em&gt;), its sole purpose is just to cool down air flowing through it to engine. Intercoolers like this are often used with turbocharged engines because turbocharger compressor will heat up intake air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically air flowing through hood scoop is used to cool down air that flows from atmosphere through air filter, turbocharger and intercooler to engine intake manifold (&lt;em&gt;in that order&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when air inside intercooler cools down its density increases and this effectively, with turbocharger, allows higher air volumes to be delivered to engine. Without intercooler, compression will heat up air and pressure required for same amount of hot air will get a lot higher than with air cooled down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3464" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T22:49:02.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-17T00:38:16.587" Score="1" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where on a 2.4lt 1989 Nissan Pintara do you put the transmission fluid? I cannot seem to find where it would go and my vehicle is not changing gears properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4626" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T22:15:16.927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:28:28.993" Title="Location of fill tube for Nissan Pintara auto transmission fluid" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|nissan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11020" CreationDate="2014-06-17T10:01:21.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C compressor is too tough for an electric motor running off of a battery to turn for extended periods. You do get automotive airconditioning systems that run off the battery, but the problem is that they are so feeble that they only really work when it's cold enough that you don't need them in the first place. They use water instead of refrigerant to cool you down, so the water needs to be chilled in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big aftermarket fan that plugs into the lighter socket and a spray bottle with chilled water might be a cheapo solution. The circulating air will ensure the water evaporates, so don't worry about mould. Just leave the windows open a tiny bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T10:01:21.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11016" CreationDate="2014-06-17T10:08:24.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A turbo sits behind an air filter on the intake circuit so it's no more likely to throw debris into your engine than a naturally aspirated car. Except maybe if the turbo sustains damage and a piece of the compressor wheel breaks off and gets sucked into a cylinder, but that won't happen unless the air filter fails first and lets something hard and heavy through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T10:08:24.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-17T22:59:05.637" Score="1" ViewCount="1728" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a rhythmic sound emanating from my rear end, and I'm not sure what exactly it is.  It varies with speed and is consistently present, regardless of clutch in/out, acceleration/deceleration, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear end is a Dana 44 with 35 inch MT/R tires (4&quot; suspension lift), mounted to a 98 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L. From listening to this sound recording (below), what would you say is the problem?  (If I'm not mistaken, this particular noise is something that someone with a trained ear will be able to identify very quickly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recording of the rear end at various speeds:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=01861567156080059635&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=01861567156080059635&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6256" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T15:48:54.140" Title="Rhythmic sound coming from rear end" Tags="|transmission|noise|axle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11036" CreationDate="2014-06-18T01:35:14.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things to check. First, check your u-joints to ensure they are in good shape. To do this, chock your tires, put it in neutral, and try to move the drive shaft ends at the yokes. There shouldn't be any play there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you need to check your pinion angle. Basically, if you drew a line directly back from, and in line with the transmission output shaft, then do the same thing with the differential yoke, these two lines should be parallel. Lots of times when lifts are put on trucks, this angle at the differential gets tweaked and out of line, which can cause vibrations. If the pinion and drive-shaft are in a straight line going to the tranny, you know it's not right. If the tranny is level, so should the diff be level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, you need to check the balance of the drive-line. I think this is the least likely, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T10:23:27.683" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T10:23:27.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11039" CreationDate="2014-06-18T10:38:48.890" Score="6" ViewCount="4619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an interesting problem on my VW Golf MK3 TDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, sometimes the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir lets out some coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It happens when the car is under torque for a while (driving fully&#xA;loaded on a motorway, or going up a small mountain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't happen when the car is not under torque (we drove about 1500km with light luggage, 2 people and a baby in the car, and no&#xA;water was lost)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pressure is still there when the car has cooled down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no oil in the coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no coolant in the oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat works, I tested in a pan of water with a thermometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) and cap are fine. I replaced them with new ones and the problem persisted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine shows no signs of overheating.&#xA;The thermostat remains at 90°C except of course if I idle the car for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem has remained the same for at least15000km&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car is now at 227000km&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump was replaced 2 years / 25000km ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's what I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be the cylinder head gasket because of 4, 5, and 9.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be bubbles in the circuit because of 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be the reservoir or pressure cap because of 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be the thermostat because of 6, 8, and possibly 1, 2 and 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at a complete loss at this point, as well as everybody I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="24" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T04:51:31.837" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:15:32.880" Title="Golf mk3 TDI has pressure in the cooling system" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|golf|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2014-06-18T13:28:32.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Your radiator cap might be working as advertised and releasing a bit of overpressure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is points one and two is telling.  In point two, you're explicitly staying out of boost on the turbo.  Steady state cruising really doesn't require the turbo to spin up.  In point one, you're explicitly relying on the turbo quite a bit.  This is going to lead to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotter intake: air under compression heats up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotter turbo-lubricating oil: the turbo gets hot compressing that air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotter coolant: due to the oil-&gt;coolant heat exchanger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that your engine temperature gauge is reading degrees C.  That means that your indicated temperature of 90 is already approaching the boiling point of unmodified water at sea level pressure (like where I am right now - see there's the sea right over there! ;-).  Your coolant isn't actually about to boil for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not just water - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3575/57&quot;&gt;it also has chemical additives that raise the boiling point&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's under pressue due to the radiator cap - this also raises the boiling point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pressurization isn't a magic spell, however.  Eventually, the rising temperatures will lead to a pressure that exceeds the rating of the radiator cap, causing it to start to vent to atmosphere.  This is on purpose: your cooling system isn't magic and you want any excess release to be controlled rather than explosive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at this point, I think your vehicle is working approximately as intended.  You have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could decide this is not a problem.  If the amount of coolant lost isn't a large amount, you could accept that every now and then you need to add coolant.  This wouldn't be an unreasonable choice as you're driving an older vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could change your coolant.  There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&amp;amp;pcid=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;additives&lt;/a&gt; that you could introduce to the coolant that increase its ability to transfer heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could change your radiator cap.  A radiator cap rated for a higher pressure will leak later.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T13:28:32.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T10:32:04.760" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 98 rodeo 2wd v6. The clutch was fine on test drive and grabbed fine even though the pedal was adjusted to the top. When I was driving it home it started to slip. Is there a way to adjust it more as it at the top of the pedal now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6264" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T11:10:04.883" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T14:26:36.820" Title="Rodeo clutch slips" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2014-06-19T11:33:34.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is fully adjusted (to the top, as you put it), there is no way to &quot;get a little more&quot; out of it. The clutch is done and you should consider getting it replaced very soon. You will be not only wasting money in gas (due to slippage), but you will also run the risk of damaging other parts, such as the flywheel (I bet this is already damaged, anyway). Even if you could adjust it a &quot;little more&quot;, it would only be a stop-gap measure. It would need to be replaced in the near future regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, I think you already understand this, but if this were bought at dealership, there would also be no way to take it back to the seller to get it replaced unless it is agreed to prior to purchase (this may not be so in California, as they have some pretty wild consumer protection laws). This is in the United States, or course. What the deal is, used cars purchased from a dealership, if out of warranty, are sold &quot;as-is&quot; unless specifically stated in the purchase of the vehicle. Some dealerships offer a 30-day or 3,000 mile powertrain warranty (or something similar). If you were given this at the outset of the purchase, you may have recourse. If not, this repair is going to be all on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T11:33:34.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T12:18:41.957" Score="3" ViewCount="9138" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the most suitable spark plug for Toyota 3A engine in Asia? (NGK/Champion/denso/BOSCH and also copper/platinum or iridium)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please explain the differences/advantages between them and how it might affect fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T12:33:13.857" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T14:21:30.787" Title="Need to know about spark plug" Tags="|toyota|sparkplugs|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T13:50:38.027" Score="5" ViewCount="119114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pontiac Grand Prix GT 1998. She runs great except my A/C is now acting up. I first noticed it a few weeks ago. I was driving and it was almost like someone had turned the air down so it wasn't blowing out as hard. I looked down and turned my knob and it was sitting at 60 (my car has duel climate controls so I checked to make sure duel/passenger side was off and not interfering as well). &#xA;Few seconds later it all stopped. Lights on the A/C were still on and I could still adjust the temp. I turned it all the way to 90 thinking it was a cold air issue and still nothing. I turned it back to 60 and kept driving. It would randomly turn on and blast glorious cold air and then die again. The longest it has worked continuously since this first started was about 2 days. It's now getting up in the 90s outside and it's miserable to drive anywhere. &#xA;Please help! I'd like to fix this on my own so any instructions would help as well. I'm a pretty handy lady but haven't had to deal with an A/C issue yet. Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6266" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T14:17:46.317" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T16:16:49.140" Title="My a/c goes in and out at random times. Help!" Tags="|ac|pontiac|grand-prix|climate-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2014-06-19T16:11:52.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone messed with your A/C or Freon recently? If the compressor turns on then instantly stops it could be either you are lacking freon or there is too much in the line. If you over charge most compressors will turn off if it notices the pressure is above a certain limit. When it gets hot outside it also causes the pressure to rise which can cause this issue. What was OK at 80 degrees is too much at 90+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd take it to a Midas or A/C shop, or if you feel comfortable, go to Autozone and buy a recharge kit with a good gauge on it. Find your low pressure port(&lt;a href=&quot;http://idqusa.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2014/02/98-pontiac-grand-prix-1024x768.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://idqusa.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2014/02/98-pontiac-grand-prix-1024x768.jpg&lt;/a&gt;) for your A/C system, hook it up and turn your A/C on high. Then follow the instructions. $30 at most for a DIY kit at most auto stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T16:11:52.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9843" CreationDate="2014-06-19T16:17:52.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say drivers side, do you mean front or rear? If front, then it could possibly be just bad luck. It's really hard to do sabotage a front caliper so I wouldn't say the shop didn't anything shoddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the rear, then how often do you use your parking brake? I know some places will use parking brake even though it is an automatic. It could be that the parking brake line is seized up. If rear I'd take it back to them and see if they could remove the tire and knock the E-brake loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T16:17:52.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T19:24:42.153" Score="4" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased this old (1979) trailer. I need to get new bearings in, but have no idea the size. How do I define what size/type bearings would be used? The tires are 12 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/onfUl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oS8YT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6267" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T22:29:00.090" Title="What wheel bearings in this trailer?" Tags="|bearing|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T19:32:24.710" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to towing and I am working on a trailer safety checklist to go through before we ride. Any additions are welcome and appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check receiver - ensure it is secure to vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check hitch - ensure it is secure within receiver and pin is secure and locked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check ball - ensure it is secure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure safety chain/s are connected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure lighting system is connected and is operational&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tire pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure contents on trailer are secure with no loose tie-downs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6267" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T12:33:03.193" Title="Trailer Safety Checklist" Tags="|safety|trailer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11047" CreationDate="2014-06-19T19:52:15.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice list you've put together so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't tow often, double-check the registration on the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect Trailer Tie-Down Locking Mechanism, and Materials. You're looking for cranks that physically won't turn (due to rust), worn straps due to friction or chafing, or broken hooks or loops on the object being towed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are your wheels self-greasing? Do they need fresh grease injected every so often?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned tire pressure; don't forget tire tread and overall tire life. Any dry rot should warrant immediate replacement. Nothing like heading down a 6-lane expressway on a loop around a major city and feeling an immediate drag as you look in the mirror and see a massive puff of smoke (not that this &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; happened to me...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T19:52:15.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11046" CreationDate="2014-06-19T22:29:00.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the size of the spindle and whether it is a straight spindle or not (more than likely it is straight). There are two common sizes for small trailers (I believe). It should be the A14 bearing set for the 1&quot; spindle, or A6 set for the 1 1/4&quot; spindle. If in the US, you should be able to pick these up from any of the major parts stores (AutoZone, Checker, Advance Auto, Etc). They have them in sets with the inner and out bearings (and races), seal, and cotter pin. Looking at your hub, I would guess it is the 1&quot; set that you need. And obviously you'd need two sets, one for each side of your trailer. Double check the part number, as different store may use different part numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T22:29:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2014-06-20T06:12:39.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is Your thermostat opening temperature? If it is 90 °C and if you live in country where temperature does not goes under negative Celsius, You can change thermostat with one that opens (for example) at 85 °C. If in winter temperature drops under 0 °C, then You can put that thermostat only in summer. You can also try thermostat with lower opening temperature and then  test if that helps. I also do not know, if is available thermostat with lower opening temperature for Your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T06:12:39.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11053" CreationDate="2014-06-20T06:20:13.953" Score="1" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the reason my honda civic 2005 (manual) hybrid turns the fan on, after I turn the engine off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic told me that is meant to cool the engine down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does Honda need to have the engine assisted in cooling down? Why not just let it cool down by itself? What is the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T08:43:00.333" Title="Honda hybrid fan on after engine off" Tags="|honda|civic|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2014-06-20T08:27:00.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the coolant stops circulating when the engine is turned off, the engine actually keeps getting hotter for a while after the engine has been turned off. If the engine gets hot enough (above 112 degrees Celsius/ 230 Fahrenheit) the aluminium cylinder head can start warping, causing uneven pressure on your head gasket, causing it to blow the next time you turn on your engine. As far as I am aware, the engine block itself also contains aluminium, so keeping it cool is even more important than engines with cast iron blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan coming on when you turn off your car is meant to keep the temperature beneath the safe threshold. Maybe your car's engine was designed to run hotter because it improves emissions figures. For instance, my car was designed to perform optimally (emissions-wise) at 99 degrees Celsius, which is just below the boiling point of water. Obviously that's a bit dangerous and therefore the fan also turns on after a drive on a particularly hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is really annoying to you, I suggest you find out from an auto-spares shop if there are cooler-running thermostats that you can have installed that will open sooner and keep your engine cooler, possibly negating the need for the fan to be turned on when you turn the ignition off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T08:43:00.333" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T08:43:00.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11042" CreationDate="2014-06-20T08:36:35.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going for performance, copper plugs are your best bet. Just know that they don't last nearly as long as platinum or iridium plugs. As far as brand goes, it doesn't REALLY matter, but my personal preference is Bosch simply because Bosch built most of my car's engine management and ignition system anyway. But the other brands you mention are just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper plugs are much better at conducting electric current and dissipating heat than other metals, so they'll be better suited to the higher temperatures caused by your performance upgrades. But the effect on fuel consumption is almost zero. It's only if your plugs don't work well when they will affect consumption and even then not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a small tip on upgrading your performance: for trouble-free performance, you should have a slightly rich-running tune to keep temperatures under control. One of the most common problems tuners face is a melted piston, which is caused by a too lean condition in the combustion chamber. For this, you'll need a better quality fuel pump, bigger injectors and a software update. Your fuel consumption will be slightly worse, but you'll still come out ahead because you won't have to strip and rebuild your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T07:10:18.897" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T07:10:18.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2014-06-20T13:19:04.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the washer depends on what the washer material is made out of. Most OEM parts are rubber based, so are both cheap and designed to be one use only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also crush washers, which need to be replaced after every use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of aftermarket (usually magnetic) sump plugs and washers - a large number of these have hard, flat, washers and can be reused a few times (&amp;lt; 10 times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T13:19:04.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11042" CreationDate="2014-06-20T16:11:18.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really what you need to do is learn how to &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; a spark plug. We can tell you what spark plug to use for a stock engine, but once you start modifying the engine, all bets are off. I will explain what reading is and how you, too, can do this at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the spark plug itself, the base spark plug which Denso says is model W14EX-U11. We can from there look at a cross reference chart and find from any other brand out there &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;from this page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;AC Delco R44XLS&#xA;Accel 114&#xA;Autolite 66&#xA;Bosch WR9DC+&#xA;Bosch W9DCX&#xA;Champion RN12YC&#xA;Champion stk 404&#xA;Denso stk 3012&#xA;General Motors 5613870&#xA;Napa X761&#xA;NGK BP4EA11&#xA;NGK BP5EA-11&#xA;NGK BP4ES-L11&#xA;NGK BP4EY11&#xA;NGK BP4ES11&#xA;NGK GR4&#xA;NGK BP5EA11&#xA;NGK stk 2635&#xA;Valley Forge 34R&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this same page to cross reference any type of spark plug you might like to buy. The spark plug I've listed is just the standard case spark plug. You will have to choose which conductor type you'd want from there (copper/platinum/iridium/yttrium). As you go from left to right with the metals, you can expect these spark plugs to last longer, but they will cost more as well. With your car being an 86, which was before the onslaught of distributorless ignition systems, you will probably do just fine with either a standard spark plug or a copper spark plug. I don't think you'll gain much by using the precious metal spark plugs (like platinum/iridium/yttrium). None of these will get you any better mileage or horsepower ... at least using the standard plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said previously, you really need to learn how to read a spark plug. What I'm talking about here is the ability to pull out a spark plug and tell how the engine at a specific cylinder is running. You can tell a lot by how it looks and it will want to tell you bunches. Here is a decent chart which shows the different states of the spark plug. I am only going to focus on a few of them, because they are of importance for your application. Please read the rest of them as well, because it is good information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVJWu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; If you cannot read it, I pulled the image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gasolinegirls.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/spark-plug-reader-chart.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this URL&lt;/a&gt; on the web.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first image of note is the upper left hand corner which is entitled &lt;strong&gt;Normal Condition&lt;/strong&gt;. Basically you are looking for the spark plug to be light brown or light gray in color. This tells you the cylinder is burning optimally and your heat range is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next picture to look at the second to the bottom on the left. While this picture on the page is by the heading &lt;strong&gt;Dry and Wet Fouling&lt;/strong&gt;, this is basically what your spark plug will look like if it is &lt;strong&gt;too cold&lt;/strong&gt; of a heat range. You'd need a spark plug which runs hotter (more on hotter and colder plugs later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last picture I want to focus on is the one next to &lt;strong&gt;Overheating&lt;/strong&gt; (third from the bottom on the right). This is basically what is going to happen when the heat range of the plug is too hot, which will cause the spark plug to over heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When reading plugs, the above chart is a good indicator of the health, but is not an END-ALL-DO-ALL. You really need to get a feel for your vehicle and how it runs. None of the pictures are going to be exactly what you will see when you pull your spark plug out, but are a good indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have read your spark plugs, you'll discover one of three things: 1) you have the right spark plug heat range; 2) your spark plug range is too cold; or, 3) your spark plug range is too hot. How do they make spark plugs &lt;em&gt;hotter&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;colder&lt;/em&gt;? Here is a good image example of how they do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zzNZX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll note how the porcelain insulator is either more exposed (for hotter plugs) or less exposed (for colder plugs). A colder plug allows heat to dissipate into the head easier, while the hotter plug does not. Why is it important? A hotter plug can cause pre-ignition (or pinging). This is very important in your engine, as it probably does not have the electronic means by which to compensate (through retarding the timing). Even if it does have the means to do this, your engine is not running optimally and you will not be getting all of the performance out of the engine, which means worse gas mileage. If your engine is pinging or has &amp;quot;pre-ignition&amp;quot; (actually the same thing), you can cause engine damage if allowed to go on for a long time. On the other hand, a spark plug which is too cold, will tend to not burn all of the air fuel mixture within the cylinder, which also means worse gas mileage and sub-par performance as well. Mind you, there won't be a HUGE difference, but it still will not be optimal. You probably won't see engine damage from this, but you'll get increased carbon deposits in your combustion chamber, which can cause other issues besides just poorer performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different factors which affect the spark plug's heat range are as follows (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1303_what_factors_affect_spark_plug_heat_range/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pulled from this website&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air/Fuel Mixture:&lt;/strong&gt; Lean air/fuel ratios raise cylinder-head temperatures, requiring a colder plug. Rich air/fuel ratios require a hotter plug to prevent fouling. Mixtures that cause the plugs to read lean may contribute to preignition or detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark Advance:&lt;/strong&gt; Ignition timing has one of the greatest effects on heat-range selections. Advancing timing raises combustion temperatures, calling for colder plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression Ratio:&lt;/strong&gt; Increasing the mechanical compression ratio raises cylinder pressure, resulting in higher cylinder temperatures. The higher the compression ratio, the colder the spark plug needs to be. According to Champion Spark Plugs, for normally aspirated, gasoline-fueled engines, a good rule of thumb is to go about one heat range colder for each full point in compression ratio increase from 9:1 through about 12.5:1, and two heat ranges colder for each point increase between 12.5:1 and 14.5:1. Beyond 14.5:1, 3–4 heat range reductions per point may be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gasoline Quality:&lt;/strong&gt; With leaded fuels, the lead is attracted to the hotter (core-nose) part of the plug, causing glazing; running a slightly colder plug helps prevent this. On today’s cleaner-burning, oxygenated, unleaded gas, an equivalent engine needs to run about 1–2 heat ranges hotter plug than originally specified (many plug makers have revised their catalogs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methanol:&lt;/strong&gt; Alky-fueled engines need a plug at least one step colder than “normal” for an equivalent gas-fueled motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nitrous Oxide:&lt;/strong&gt; N2O raises cylinder temperatures and may require a plug 1–2 heat ranges colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supercharging/Turbocharging:&lt;/strong&gt; With increased chamber pressure and temperature, two or more heat ranges colder may be needed. Extreme high-boost, race-only apps may need a surface-gap plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sustained Acceleration:&lt;/strong&gt; Prolonged acceleration or high-speed driving raises temperatures and calls for colder plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elevation:&lt;/strong&gt; Leaning the mixture and advancing the timing partially compensates for lost power and efficiency caused by higher elevation. Spark-plug heat ranges should stay the same as at sea level, unless racing above 3,000 feet, where one step hotter usually suffices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note is that some engines just like some spark plug brands better than others. What may work in a Chevrolet may not work in your Toyota as well. You will ultimately need to figure out which brand you like and stick to it. I have found good plugs from Bosch, AC Delco, NGK, Denso, Champion, and others. I have personally had bad luck with Autolite. That of course is &amp;quot;my experience&amp;quot; ... yours may differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T16:11:18.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2014-06-20T18:17:52.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of my cars use flat metal washers (and neither one is something the local shops stock).  Recommendation (manual) is to replace every time.  I've never replaced either one (1991 and 1995 vehicles).  Never a single drop of oil from either.  If I did leak a few drops I wouldn't get too excited anyways since on the '95 the turbo oil return line has always dripped a little (replaced and resealed twice now to no effect, appears to just be a poor design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my motorcycle (1994) has a crush washer and those &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; stocked along with the oil &amp;amp; filter, so it's easy to pick one up each time.  Plus, even a drop of oil leaking in front of my rear tire is a crash risk I don't want to take.  That said, I have reused a crush washer on it before.  It's very hard to get the right oil level in the bike, air pockets for easily and it's easy to overfill, so I've had to take the filler plug out, drain a little, then stuff it back in (reusing the crush washer).  No leaks as a result of that yet, so perhaps a crush washer can, in practice, actually be used a second or third time.  Either way, I keep a sharp eye out for any leaks on that vehicle since it could be so disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T18:17:52.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5471" CreationDate="2014-06-20T19:00:58.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your headlamps are at good brightness, it's your Starter Solenoid Switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMrma.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pop the hood, it's on the front side of the engine about halfway down. It's about 6 inches long, cylindrical. Temporarily, you can knock it quite mildly a couple of times, then the car should start. Then replace it as soon as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6275" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T12:47:15.957" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T12:47:15.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11061" CreationDate="2014-06-21T15:37:26.447" Score="2" ViewCount="17227" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 Suburban's A/C started to lose its cooling capacity last fall. In late fall it stopped cooling completely (there was a mechanic involved with other parts of the vehicle at the time). This spring it still does not cool, although antifreeze levels are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on checking refrigerant pressures -- there might be a slow leak and the levels might be low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pressures are low, we're going to start with a full recharge. I plan to evacuate the system completely and properly dispose of the old refrigerant, then recharge the system. I will also add some fluorescent dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently all the A/C parts are still OEM original. Since there was no parts replacement, would that eliminate the need to add oil? Or should I still include oil during the recharge of the A/C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T08:12:20.947" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T08:12:20.947" Title="Do I need to add oil after A/C evacuation without replacing any parts?" Tags="|oil|ac|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2014-06-21T16:20:17.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question you put back in the same amount that came out when you evacuated the system. If none came out I usually add 1 to 2 oz depending on the size of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address another part of your question why would you dispose of the old refrigerant? Most recovery machines also recycle the old refrigerant, by that I mean that they remove any moisture, air and contaminates. Deposing of if cost you money, plus the cost of refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressures alone will not tell you if the system is charged correctly, while it can give you an idea you won't know for sure without measuring it, especially if non-condensable gas (air) is in the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a recovery machine it will tell you the amount of refrigerant removed and you can compare that with what is suppose to be in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:20:17.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11067" CreationDate="2014-06-22T09:57:59.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 93 Mk2 Golf GTI. The highbeam light on the right side of the car does not work. I have checked the fuse and bulb and both seem ok. When the head lights are not on and I toggle the passing switch neither low beam or high beam lights on the right hand side work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know, if not the fuse or bulb, what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T21:47:33.057" Title="Right side highbeam not working on on Mk2 Golf GTI - not fuse or bulb" Tags="|electrical|headlight|golf|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11065" CreationDate="2014-06-22T20:04:48.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bulbs - Swap the bulbs, like the comment suggested, with the ones on the other side. If works switch back and get replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuse - Swap the fuse with another in the fuse box with the same rating. If works switch back and get replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connectors - Check for corrosion on connectors. Clean connectors with fine grade sand paper. Coat in something waterproof like that waterproof spray you get.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch - Bypass the switch by shorting the wires, if works, switch at fault. (I take no responsibility for this.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Earthing (ground) - Same as connectors. Make sure earth is good. Sometimes earth is established by a screw into the body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Relays - Combination of fuse, connectors and switch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a multimeter you can trace the path of the electricity and see where it drops off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to auto-electrician ;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, it's probably the bulb. They sometimes have two filaments one for high, and one for low. One of them may be done: the one for high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6286" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T21:47:33.057" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T21:47:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11073" CreationDate="2014-06-23T01:38:21.043" Score="2" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into installing an auxiliary fuse panel in my car. Having researched what some others have done, I've been led towards a Cooper Bussmann 8 position ATC fuse panel. However, on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/bussmann/consumer/products/automotive_circuitprotectionprdandacc/fuse_holders_panelblockstaps/Blade_Fuse_Taps_ATM_ATC1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, there are part numbers for a short base panel and a long base panel. So far, my internetfu has been unhelpful in determining what the distinction between the two is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the short base and long base fuse panels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T10:35:34.917" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T11:41:52.027" Title="What is the difference between a short base and long base fuse panel?" Tags="|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T09:12:23.400" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a GPS based acceleration meter for car. I'm planning to give user some scores based on his various acceleration practices. Not going to the electronics part of GPS, i want to know in what acceleration/braking range, fuel economy of any average 1000-1500cc car is maximum? Any chart including acceleration/deacceleration range vs fuel economy effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4224" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T11:50:05.617" Title="Most economical acceleration range" Tags="|brakes|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|throttle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11071" CreationDate="2014-06-23T09:49:20.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can't use a single average value for all cars. Here are some variables that could greatly influence your program :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear engaged (The same acceleration won't use the same amount of fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of fuel (petrol, diesel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car characteristics (weight, aerodynamysn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6233" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T09:49:20.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11068" CreationDate="2014-06-23T11:41:52.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the difference as far as I can tell. The &quot;long base&quot; has an additional power distribution portion. You can see it here in these two images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooper Bussmann 15600-04-20 (short base):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vxYj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cooper Bussman 15600-04-20 short base&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooper Bussmann 15600-04-21 (long base):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIzxf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cooper Bussman 15600-04-21 long base&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These (obviously) are the four fuse block models. Eaton makes the Bussman to handle up to 20 fuses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T11:41:52.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11071" CreationDate="2014-06-23T11:50:05.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no charts that I am aware of, but you can calculate the theoretical maximum efficiency by considering the following&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;current speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;assume a volumetric efficiency of 100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume an ideal air/fuel mixture of 14.7/1 (for petrol engines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the weight of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;assume the car is traveling on a 100% level surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total volume of cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;considering these things, you should be able to calculate the theoretical maximum efficiency of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: you don't need the GPS to tell you your accelleration if you plan on reading info from the OBD port because you can use the difference in speed between two requests for current speed combined with the delta of time to calculate acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T11:50:05.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T13:08:23.030" Score="2" ViewCount="6549" Body="&lt;p&gt;pajero wouldnt start and just clicks had aa out and they said it was the alternator but tried car over weekend and it started first time. tried this morning and just click had to have a jump start to get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6289" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T09:45:11.693" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T09:45:11.693" Title="when trying to start my pajero it just clicks and wont fire up" Tags="|battery|alternator|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2014-06-23T13:36:20.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is most likely the battery. It sounds as though it might have a dead cell, or have what is called a &quot;surface charge&quot;. This describes exactly what you are talking about. Something you can do to test this at home is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the voltage of the battery while the vehicle is running with a multimeter. What you are looking for is if the battery loses voltage while the engine is running, it would be a sign the alternator is bad (ie: initial voltage reading is 12.45vdc and continues to drop). If, however, you get normal running voltage (13.1-14.5vdc), the problem lies with the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T13:36:20.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11110" CreationDate="2014-06-23T14:00:24.087" Score="0" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lancia Delta Integrale with a suspected fuel pump problem. I tried to start the car by spraying some Bradex Easy Start into the air intake. It fired for one or two revolutions then stopped. I disconnected the fuel line and cranked the car but no fuel came out however, it did in the past when there was a fissure in the same pipe! As the car has been parked up for about 4 months, what could have happened in the meantime to cause the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastEditorUserId="5122" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T14:57:38.320" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T11:01:53.050" Title="Lancia Delta Integrale Fuel Pump" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T23:57:49.190" Score="1" ViewCount="19895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to program a remote (with door lock/unlock/trunk buttons) I got off eBay for my 2000 Camry CE without much luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've followed about a dozen different instructions (open door / close door / lock / unlock sequences) I found online to get the car to enter into programming mode, but none of them work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car does not have a chip key; and as far as I can tell it's not a valet key either (I can open my glove box with it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official set of instructions to get the car into programming mode? Anything else I should try (other than taking it to the dealer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More info:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm pretty sure the fact of having a broken/wrong remote is irrelevant at this stage. The idea is that after you perform a magic &quot;open door x 2 / close door / lock x 10 / unlock sequence&quot; the car's locks will cycle automatically, thus letting you know you're in the programming mode; only then you'd actually program the remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the car used, and it didn't come with the remote; is there a way to check whether the car ever had one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastEditorUserId="1116" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T18:20:46.743" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T18:05:55.490" Title="2000 Camry does not enter programming mode" Tags="|toyota|camry|fob|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T00:37:39.783" Score="4" ViewCount="1696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta. She has an approximately &lt;strong&gt;5 inch wide plastic piece on the front and back doors&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are faded now and would like to replace them. I wanted to research whether I can buy these and fix them myself or if I have to take my car into the shop. I have no clue what these pieces are called to even do research on them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is exactly what I am looking for. I got this picture from Google but drew the red square myself :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRWPR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this plastic piece called? Is it simple to replace myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6292" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T10:34:11.777" Title="Name of a plastic piece on a VW Jetta on front and back door" Tags="|part-identification|jetta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T05:42:42.690" Score="3" ViewCount="12278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this car when it had 120,000 miles on it, a few weeks ago, for a grand from my friend who sold it to me with the caution that it had a few issues. I am a novice driver and needed a car to get comfortable driving in. Not a brand new car that I might smash into the divider! The car had the check engine light on, but my friend said his mechanic had told him he could not identify any issues with it. Moving on ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had let it sit in the lot for almost 15 days without driving it anywhere. This was 1 months ago. But the car started and drove fine when I drove it around the city, highways included, and no problems (now that I think about it, I did find the car difficult to accelerate while on the highway. But I am a novice driver and did not think much of it then). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On that day after coming back home, I had left the headlights on when the car was shut down for about 20 min. That caused the battery to drain apparently. When I tried to start it the car made rapid clicking noises without the engine cranking. The battery light stayed on. I had it jumped and that fixed the problem and the battery light went off. I let it run while parked for 20 mins and had no issues when i took it around. But I never drove it longer than 20 mins or faster than 50 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was driving on a highway with my mobile phone charging from the lighter port and the A/C at full blast. When I got on to the highway, the car would not accelerate smoothly, and did not get much above 60 mph no matter how hard I tried. A few min later all the lights on the dashboard went on, including the battery light. I turned the A/C off and unplugged my mobile phone which felt really hot to touch. The car radio started to turn on and off randomly all on its own, and kept doing that even when I tried to turn it off. I managed to drive off the highway, and drove for another 10 min to get home safely, parked and turned off the car. Then It would not start again, once again making rapid clicking noises when I tried. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had it jumped again, and it started. This time though, the battery  light continued to stay on.  The car remained on for a few min. Then i tried to reach the driver side mirror and accidentally turned on the turn signal and that shut the car off right away. Now it makes those clicks again when I start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was the whole chain of events. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think? Is it the battery? Or alternator? If I jump start again, and it stays on, will I be able to drive it to a mechanic that is 5 min away, traffic included? I don't want to have it towed unless I really have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6294" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T10:24:37.530" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T12:51:50.680" Title="2007 Chevy Aveo - battery, alternator, or something else?" Tags="|chevrolet|charging|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11081" CreationDate="2014-06-24T07:09:07.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a can of matte or satin finish paint and simply spray them. The best option is to remove them completely, spray, and then put them back. You don't want to get paint on your windows or panels. Otherwise, you'll want to use masking tape and newspaper and thoroughly cover every surface around the part you want to spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those things, and any other piece of flimsy plastic replacement part is often ridiculously expensive when bought from the manufacturer. It's usually not worth replacing it unless your insurance offers to cough up the dough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T07:09:07.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2014-06-24T11:00:13.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see where the issue lies by doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the batter without the engine running. If the battery is in good shape, it should be around 12.9-13.1 volts DC (vdc). I would assume since you are getting a clicking noise, your voltage reading is going to be much lower. If you do get the correct voltage reading, you have a connection issue. This could be at the battery, or at any of the connection ends. If it doesn't have the correct voltage (reading something like 10-10.5vdc or less), you can try charging the battery. If you put the battery on a charger and it still does not respond (will not completely charge), the battery is obviously at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jump the car and get it running. Again using a multimeter, check the voltage at the battery. Nominal voltage should be ~13.1-13.9vdc (or there about). If it is showing a voltage reading and that reading continues to drop (ie: starts at 12.5vdc, while slowly and continuously drops), the problem is probably your alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the battery (as described in the second half of the first bullet), your car will probably die on it's way to the mechanic. If the problem is your connections (as described in the first part of the first bullet), you need to figure out where the loose connection is at and get it fixed ... it will probably die on the way to the mechanic as well. If the problem is the alternator (as described in the second bullet), you can fully charge the battery, your car should make it just fine to the mechanic to have it replaced. My gut check here is that the problem lies in the battery, where it is just dieing and taking the field charge with it, not allowing the alternator to put out the required amount of current to keep the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if you don't have an multimeter, you can pick one up from Harbor Freight or the like for a cheap amount (under $5). You just need one which will give you basic vdc, vac, and ohm readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T11:00:13.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11081" CreationDate="2014-06-24T11:23:03.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several products which would probably be, not only easier, but work better than painting. These products include such things as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/black-wow-trim-restorer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Wow&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/303-products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;303 products&lt;/a&gt;, or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-black.html?productid=meguiars-ultimate-black&amp;amp;channelid=FROOG&amp;amp;utm_source=CSEs&amp;amp;utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&amp;amp;utm_campaign=CSE&amp;amp;gclid=CO_22aCykr8CFdBi7AodYz8Amw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meguiars Ultimate Black&lt;/a&gt;. I personally would take the course of least resistance, namely: 1) try one of these products, 2) painting the pieces, and then 3) replacement if all else fails. Why do more work than you need to get the result you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T11:23:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-24T18:22:56.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZyWY.png&quot; alt=&quot;A variety of different blade type fuses (Wikipedia)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fuse is a component often found in electrical systems that acts as a safeguard for the electrical system of a vehicle. The primary purpose is to protect the wiring and components of a vehicle from damage. Typically, automotive fuses have two blade connectors and a plastic housing that contains the conductor which reside in a fuse panel (see the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuse-panel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fuse-panel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuse-panel&lt;/a&gt; tag). There are other types of fuses, such as fusible links, which are in the wiring itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuses contain a conductor which is sized in such a way where it has a specific melting point that is lower than the wiring it is connected to. When electrical load is created, which will heat up the wires, any unsafe load cause the conductor to melt, thus interrupting the electrical circuit. Blown fuses must be replaced in order to re-establish the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T18:57:50.033" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T18:57:50.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-24T18:22:56.590" Score="0" Body="An expendable (single-use) electrical component that safeguards an electrical circuit by melting or otherwise interrupting the flow of current if the current exceeds the designed limit." OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:31:46.647" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:31:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-24T18:33:25.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQSlj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A fuse panel (about.com)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fuse panel contains a collection of fuses (see the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuse&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fuse&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuse&lt;/a&gt; tag). Most motor vehicles have two fuse panels, one in the engine compartment and one in the interior of the vehicle. These panels have wires from various electrical components connected into leeds where a fuse can be set to help protect the car's electrical wiring from damage due to overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T11:28:55.603" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T11:28:55.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-24T18:33:25.717" Score="0" Body="A box, panel, or other type of housing that contains a collection of fuses." OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T11:28:58.433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T11:28:58.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T02:01:05.313" Score="2" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car won't start I turn the key and nothing happens no click or turning of the engine. When I wait after a while the car makes a beeping noise like it resests itself then it starts but as soon as I turn it off same thing. Now I'm having no luck of starting it. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6300" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T13:57:13.237" Title="1996 Toyota Camry - ignition or wiring" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11101" CreationDate="2014-06-25T03:10:38.070" Score="1" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told that as well as different strengths of battery (Cold Cranking Amps CCA),&#xA;there are different types of car battery.&#xA;And that using the wrong one can cause it to over-charge and the battery to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not certain on the names,&#xA;I think one is Calcium, and the other is Lead Acid, &#xA;but not sure.&#xA;I thought they were all lead acid, til now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To work out which type my car needs, what key words should I look for in the manual?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To work out what type a battery is, what should I be looking for on its stickers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6301" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T14:41:34.967" Title="How to determine type of battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11022" CreationDate="2014-06-25T07:13:12.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a 1967 model as my grand father had the same model that I had seen in the photo album of our family members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T07:13:12.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11099" CreationDate="2014-06-25T08:22:24.753" Score="7" ViewCount="55306" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's now properly winter over here in Australia, and the butt dyno is very favourable of the cold, dry air. It's like a free cold air intake for everyone, right??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two scientific reasons as to why this may be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Increased air density&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given constant pressure (which seems accurate), the temperature of the air is inversely proportional to the number of air molecules. So colder air means more molecules, and more air molecules means more energy released in each combustion cycle. A drop from 30 C to 0 C is roughly a 10% drop measured in Kelvin, which suggests 10% more energy for each combustion cycle --&gt; 10% more horsepower!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Decreased humidity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water molecules in air can't be particularly helpful for combustion, as those molecules need to heat up but don't combust. 100% humidity seems to correspond to 2.8% water to air ratio - a potentially substantial amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, theories can't be relied upon without taking everything else into account, e.g. an engine may not even adjust for the increased air density, and thus run lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone have some reliable data on the impact of cold, dry air on engine performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T00:31:05.350" Title="How does cold, dry weather affect horsepower?" Tags="|engine|power|winter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11097" CreationDate="2014-06-25T08:57:51.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are absolutely right. I remember a few years ago a Formula 1 commentator mentioned that the cold conditions in the morning is why the drivers were seeing their lap times had improved by as much as 1 second, which is a lot in Formula 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, an intercooler cools air down to make it more dense, which in turn makes more power, so obviously your theory is supported by the motor industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, with regards to humidity, when people start doing crazy things with turbo engines they sometimes add water injection kits that spray a fine water mist into the combustion chamber to absorb heat to help increase the density further and also prevents catastrophic meltdowns. Other tuners may use a richer running tune to utilise excess fuel to absorb heat. This fuel is wasted, so you could theoretically spray basically any liquid into the cylinder, as long as it doesn't interfere with combustion or lubrication. With that in mind, I think cold, humid air might just be better than cold, dry air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knowledge begins and ends with turbo-petrol engines, so if anything doesn't apply to NA or diesel engines, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T12:37:00.957" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T12:37:00.957" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11097" CreationDate="2014-06-25T12:43:35.793" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Cold dry air has a substantial effect on horsepower.  This can be confirmed through experimentation on any modern car.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can think of two scientific reasons as to why this may be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased air density&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decreased humidity&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes.  You're already most of the way there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a quick trip to simplified theoretical model land:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine runs on oxygen molecules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Density of the air determines how many oxygen molecules we have to work with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ergo, we want to maximize the density of the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, we have two knobs that we can turn on our theoretical model: temperature and humidity.  That second becomes confusing quickly when we realize that humidity affects the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_heat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;heat capacity of the air&lt;/a&gt;.  That's a perplexing concept (heat, temperature, aren't they the same?!) until you realize that specific heat is almost like mass: the more specific heat a thing has, the harder it is to change its temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical example: turn on a gas stove to max.  Put your hand directly over the burner.  Note the near instant first degree burns: the air over the grill heats up very fast.  Put a five gallon pot full of water on the same burner (hey, it takes a lot of water to make beer!).  Put your hand in the pot all the way down to the bottom (not touching).  Note that you're the same distance that you were from the burner but no burns!  The water has a higher specific heat and is much more sluggish in changing temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that was fun.  Why do we care?  We care because, if you're trying to maximize density, you're starting with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isentropic_process#Table_of_isentropic_relations_for_an_ideal_gas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ideal gas law equation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OxqNl.png&quot; alt=&quot;\Bigg\lbrack \frac{T_2}{T_1} \Bigg\rbrack = \left (\frac{\rho_2}{\rho_1} \right )^{(\gamma - 1)}&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T = temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rho = density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gamma = the ratio of specific heats (constant pressure / constant volume)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... except that you suddenly realize that this is no longer an ideal gas: gamma is not constant since you're changing the humidity.  Check the first two lines of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_heat#Table_of_specific_heat_capacities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;table of specific heat entries&lt;/a&gt; for two examples for air that are similar to the ones that you suggest.  The constant pressure heat capacity jumps quite a lot between the two lines, largely due to the increase in humidity: 40.85% humidity is cited as being 1.16% water vapor content.  If you look further down that chart, you see what we expected: the specific heat of water is much higher than air, all of which eventually brings us back to the fact that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidity#Air_density_and_volume&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;higher humidity air results in lower useful density of oxygen&lt;/a&gt; for our engine to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;... deep breath ...&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what?  Why don't highly tuned engines break when the air gets cold and dry?  Why can I drive my turbo car at sea level in the winter and in the mountains (well, we call them mountains) in the humid summer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the engine computer is pretty smart.  It isn't living in theoretical model land.  It has quite a few more sensors measuring plenty of things that I've ignored above.  As a result, it isn't trying to solve for the correct values to match the model: it's setting tuning parameters on the engine and then monitoring the results.  Consequently, it makes an effective numerical approximation of all of the above that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Makes your car run pretty well, providing you with the best possible mileage and power at its disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Doesn't blow up on a winter day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T00:31:05.350" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T00:31:05.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11093" CreationDate="2014-06-25T14:13:33.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your immobilizer is immobilizing ;) Your car has a security feature called an immobiliser which will prevent the car from starting, or will make it die after being driven only a short distance if the key is not in the ignition or you didn't press a hidden switch in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes these systems malfunction, causing the car to die even though you've done everything you're supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T07:13:28.610" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T07:13:28.610" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11094" CreationDate="2014-06-25T14:41:34.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a very strange car (ie possibly some of the hybrids, and maybe some heavy duty offroaders) or live in a very cold environment (eg northern Canada or Russia) you can use standard 12 volt lead-acid car batteries. If your manual says it has to be something different, then pay attention to the manual, but otherwise, go with the default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run high current devices (such as high wattage audio amplifiers etc) or find the car has trouble starting in very cold temperatures, you may want a high CCA battery, but moving up a level like this will not cause any problems such as those you describe. I did this when I installed large amplifiers in my current car, so I can run them for a while with the engine off without worrying that I will run the battery down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T14:41:34.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11104" CreationDate="2014-06-25T19:32:18.483" Score="2" ViewCount="75075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to drive 20 miles on the highway home, is this tire safe to to do that or is the wire a serious concern? I've driven 10 miles on it so far. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nAVPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6307" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T23:21:42.283" Title="Exposed tire wire- safe to drive home?" Tags="|tires|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2014-06-25T19:43:45.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me preface this by you do any of this &lt;strong&gt;at your own (and passenger's if any) risk&lt;/strong&gt;. That said, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to drive this the extra 20 miles to get it home. I would drive slowly (back roads, 35mph maximum) if possible. The idea with that is to keep heat in the tire down to a minimum. Also, if it does blow out, you should be able to keep the car under control while you pull it over to the side. I have seen tires in worse shape make it further, but no two tires are the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things to think about with your tire here. First, what caused the tire to wear unevenly. Secondly, instead of going home, you should think about taking it to a tire shop to get it replaced. When you get it home as it is, what are you going to have to do then? Take it to a shop to get the tire replaced, but you'll have a bunch more miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T19:43:45.840" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2014-06-25T20:31:13.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get one or two suction cups with the pop up handles and stick them to the bottom part of the window. The handles will prevent the window from sliding down. Harbor Freight tools has them for about 3 dollars. Quick, temporary, cheap solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6308" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T20:31:13.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2014-06-26T05:58:46.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be both the alternator and the battery. The mechanic I went to replaced them both and so far the car has been OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not have a multimeter handy and the car would not shift out of park or stay jump started, so I had to have it towed to a nearby auto repair shop to have this done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks Paulster2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6294" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T05:58:46.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11125" CreationDate="2014-06-26T06:22:16.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Golf Mk1 that has been sitting a while and I am fixing up. When I start the car the engine catches but then dies almost immediately. I have to restart the car 3 or 4 times like this until the engine starts idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be because of stale fuel? I havent replaced the fuel in the tank yet (been sitting for over a year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or could this be something to do with the injection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2018-03-18T23:13:28.817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T23:13:28.817" Title="Engine starts but almost immediately cuts out 3 or 4 times when starting" Tags="|fuel-system|ignition|golf|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11097" CreationDate="2014-06-26T09:46:30.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's another factor regarding humidity which is that water air expands/collapses per degree of temperature change a hugely, so its presence in the combustion chamber increases the pressure of the explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine experimented with a water injection system on his (carburettor) car while studying for an engineering degree. He reported better economy and power, but it it was hard to set up &amp;amp; effectively needed its own management system (another carburettor just for the water) so he gave up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lower ambient temperature is accompanied with rain or wet conditions, you'll also get this effect for free as the air/water is already mixed for you :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6311" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T09:46:30.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11078" CreationDate="2014-06-26T11:01:53.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're on the right track - it'll be either a problem with the fuel pump or one or more of the fuel lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have an in-line fuel filter? If so, is that clear? Are the rubber fuel lines in good condition - it might be worth replacing them as a matter of course, as new lines are cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an electric pump, you ought to be able to test it fairly easily, by switching it on and listening to it - also check the wiring to make sure it is getting power! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical pumps are harder obviously, the easiest way to test them is to remove them from the car and work the lever manually. The Integrale is injected isn't it - does it have two pumps for low and high pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T11:01:53.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T12:11:29.503" Score="2" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to improve the headlight illumination on my Toyota Carina AT 150. It is equipped with square type 55W lamps, but it's difficult to drive in the city or rainy/misty conditions. What are my options to improve the lighting performance? HIDs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I modify my lights, will the existing battery and alternator be able to bear this additional load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I replace existing 55W bulbs with 100W bulbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T23:25:42.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T23:25:42.433" Title="What are the methods to improve headlights of a car?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|headlight|wiring|carina|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2014-06-26T14:15:57.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said previously, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osram.com/osram_com/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/night-breaker-plus-limited-edition/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a set of Osram bulbs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; would help a lot. Further to that, your headlights may just need &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QwzHOO-3lk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a nice polish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Some people try to get real fancy with products and methods, but what it really comes down to is that you need to use various grades of sandpaper (from rough to very fine) and finish off with rubbing compound and/or liquid polish (I use Brasso, but any liquid polish should work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T14:15:57.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2014-06-26T18:33:57.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;GO to a Chrysler Deal and buy 1 or 2 cans of &quot;Cumbustion Chamber Cleaner&quot; and follow the directions. IT works wonders. Allow one or two days between treatments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6312" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:33:57.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11117" CreationDate="2014-06-27T08:15:32.230" Score="1" ViewCount="2916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a car and found a really nice one, but the description says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ford Focus 1.8 5dr DR OWNED HISTORY&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone has an idea what DR OWNED means? Is it &quot;Doctor owned&quot; or &quot;Drowned&quot;? Or could it be something else? I dont mind buying a doctor owned car :) The description says nothing about drowned car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this helps, this is in UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T11:15:19.430" Title="Does anyone has idea what DR abbreviation in car name means?" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-06-27T14:22:49.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2014-06-27T09:25:07.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth making sure that the bulbs are getting their full voltage - Halogen lamps drop off in brightness significantly as voltage drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cars of that age didn't have relayed headlamps, and so as the wiring has aged, it's resistance has increased, and the performance of the headlamps will suffer - fitting relays close to the lamps with new, good quality wiring can often help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T09:25:07.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2014-06-27T11:15:19.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent about 20 minutes searching and supposedly it's a fairly common thing in the UK to advertise the fact that the car in question is/was owned by a doctor. Probably just a bit of vanity on the part of the seller as there's no reason that a doctor would treat his car any better than a lawyer or businessman. In fact, there is a thing called the &quot;doctor test&quot; that manufacturers perform on their cars to see how well they cope with questionable treatment, e.g. constant stopping and starting. So &quot;DR OWNED&quot; may actually show that the car's engine wasn't well looked after, even if the interior is immaculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T11:15:19.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11144" CreationDate="2014-06-27T11:35:08.523" Score="3" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to launch upon replacing the headliner of my 1976 VW T2 Microbus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking for hints on how to do it I have seen a couple of blogs that say it is only possible if all the windows are removed from the bus first.  is this really so?  It seems an awfully complicated way of doing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T12:26:17.903" Title="VW T2 Headlining Replacement" Tags="|vw|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12140" CreationDate="2014-06-27T14:49:00.653" Score="4" ViewCount="6603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a Craftsman push mower (Model 917.377543) from my sister. She had left it outside all winter in the snow/rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have got to the point where the mower will run for 15-20 minutes initially before dying (it runs good when it does). After that, I have to let it sit for 5-10 minutes before it will start again, and it will only last 5-10 minutes, and eventually will stop starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heres a list of things that I have done (the mower wouldn't start at all at first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed old gas &amp;amp; oil and replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took the carb apart (the bottom tin can part) and cleaned with carb cleaner. This is what got the mower running in the first place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced rotted gasket in the carb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixed some cleaner into the gas to help clean the engine out as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WD-40'd necessary spots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can try to get this thing running? I am about to just go buy a new mower, but I am no mechanic so there may be something else little I can try out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other part visible on the mower that may be the culprit is this black tube that i believe is hooked up to the oil tank, and it runs near the carb, it is rotted at the end and it seems air may be able to get in. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-143996510/0247/1503500/P8110211/00001?blt=06&amp;amp;prst=0&amp;amp;shdMod=143996510&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine parts here&lt;/a&gt;, it may be the 'breather tube' (part #12). Would this make sense with what is happening (shutting off after some use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I notice when it shuts off, is that if I remove the oil cap white smoke comes out. Is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help. (I can try to get some pics of the tube that is rotted when I go home)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Someone suggested my gas cap may be bad, and no air is venting in the the gas tank causing it to shut off. This past weekend I was able to cut my whole lawn without it shutting off. When it began to die out, I unscrewed the gap for a few seconds and it kicked back in! I will have an update in a couple of weeks to ensure thats the issue. I don't trust this mower!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T18:34:05.463" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:59:14.917" Title="Craftsman Push Mower Dying After Running a few minutes" Tags="|engine|stall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T17:41:36.500" Score="5" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the A/C receiver drier (a.k.a. accumulator) in my 1962 Buick Skylark (V8 convertible), however the aftermarket ones I've been finding online (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/13745-05039271.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/13745-05039271.html&lt;/a&gt;) have different inlets than the current one in my car (see pictures below).  Does anyone know where I can find one that looks like this? Or, is there an adapter available that could make the others compatible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/283xO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9dPL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6319" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T10:55:16.630" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:55:16.630" Title="A/C Reciever Drier for 1962 Skylark" Tags="|ac|buick|skylark|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T00:26:08.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T21:50:23.217" Score="0" ViewCount="3003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2007 VW Rabbit. Auto. 2.5L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem: The problem started one week ago. When starting car sometimes it will only turn over once and then silence. Solution is to wait a minute or so and then try again, usually works the second or third time. First time it happened was 5 days ago, then it happened again 3 days ago, and then it happened twice today. When the car finally does start, the 'Locked Steering Wheel' &amp;amp; 'Traction Control Off' lights stay on the dash for about a minute while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to trouble shoot the problem, only thing I can think of is the starter motor is starting to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6322" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T03:41:04.140" Title="2007 Rabbit - Intermittently wont start" Tags="|electrical|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-28T06:49:21.173" Score="1" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this is possible. With a conventional manual transmission (say, Tremec T56), could I install a small computer to press the clutch, change the gears, etc? Obviously, I would have to actually program it to do so, but does anyone know of a reason it'd be impossible? I'm a computer person, not really into cars, but it seems pretty easy to calculate the appropriate shift points, send the right instructions to the transmission at the right time, and all that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6327" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T22:26:25.793" Title="Convert Manual to Computerized &quot;Automatic&quot;" Tags="|transmission|computer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11107" CreationDate="2014-06-28T08:56:35.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research and found this can be caused by a dirty throttle body. I removed the air intake piping and cleaned the butterfly valves with throttle body cleaner. All good now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T08:56:35.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2014-06-28T17:38:48.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet at this point is to &lt;strong&gt;replace the carburetor&lt;/strong&gt;. It sounds as though the old gas has clogged the carb and made it so the gas will not flow as it is supposed to. Personally I have attempted to rebuild carbs for small engines with absolutely no luck. Replacing the carb, while costing more, is a cheap option when you look at the frustration factor and the amount of time you've already sunk into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When purchasing the part, find the engine model number, which should be on a plate somewhere on the engine itself (might be behind one of the cowling plates (this might actually be the number you provided, but I don't know for sure). Sears does not manufacture its own mowers or motors for their mowers. They have them built for resale. If you have the exact model number of the engine itself, you should be able find the carb online for much cheaper than from Sears. In fact, I just looked it up. This is a Tecumseh motor. You can pick up a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=carberator%20640262A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;replacement carb&lt;/a&gt; on eBay for about 1/3 to 1/4 the cost of what it will cost from Sears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, use Sta-Bil or some other fuel stabilizer in the gas. I have used it in all of my small equipment for the past several years and have had absolutely zero issues with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T17:38:48.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2014-06-28T18:12:42.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a manufacturer out on the market right now who actually does this. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnetimarelli.com/excellence/technological-excellences/amt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magneti Marelli&lt;/a&gt; has an Automated Manual Transmission or AMT. This was discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9711/how-does-a-amt-automated-manual-transmission-work&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:12:42.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11129" CreationDate="2014-06-28T18:15:24.107" Score="1" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a feature on Jaguar cars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://d24w6bsrhbeh9d.cloudfront.net/photo/ay5PZvM_460sa.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://d24w6bsrhbeh9d.cloudfront.net/photo/ay5PZvM_460sa.gif&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But does it come as standard on all XJ models 2010 onwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:34:36.407" Title="Do all versions of the Jaguar XJ (2010 onwards) come with dual view screens?" Tags="|navigation|jaguar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11128" CreationDate="2014-06-28T18:34:36.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears as though it does come standard on the 2010+ Jaguar XJ. This is a system built by Bosch Car Multimedia division. It was first slated for the luxury Mercedes S-Class, so the XJ is the second car to get it. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotive-eetimes.com/en/jaguar-equips-xj-model-with-bosch-head-unit.html?cmp_id=7&amp;amp;news_id=222900814&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article dated May 2010&lt;/a&gt;, EE Times talks about it being in the XJ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bosch has developed a head unit that will be first introduced onto the market in the new Jaguar XJ. Centerpiece of the head unit is a touch-screen with a diagonal of 8 inches (20 cm). The unit offers some innovative features including 'Dual View' functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jaguar.com/jaguar-range/xj/xj-models/xj-supersport-lwb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jaguar website&lt;/a&gt;, they talk of it being standard equipment on the XJ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the 8 inch dual video screens, your front seat passenger can enjoy completely different content on their screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is located within the &lt;strong&gt;Standard Features&lt;/strong&gt; section of their page describing the XJ, so one can assume that not only is it standard equipment on all XJs, it has been there since 2010 and continues to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:34:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2014-06-29T01:22:39.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever a car has starting issues, the first things I check are the battery, the alternator and the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the battery easily with a voltmeter or take it to a shop and have them do a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsJUuLu1cw0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;load test&lt;/a&gt; on the battery. You can also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq24oPUVmdA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;test the alternator with a multimeter&lt;/a&gt;, but I prefer using amperage meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you verify those things are alright you starting looking elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial suspicion is that there's a problem with the starter. Intermittent cranking sounds like the starter could be going bad. A starter is a fairly straightforward swap/fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T01:22:39.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-29T02:30:24.427" Score="5" ViewCount="2364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have have Honda Accord 2000 with manual 5 gear transmission. &#xA;During acceleration it shakes like front end is ready to jump out. Engine doesn't misfire or anything - I have plenty of power on all RPMs and no hesitation - car just goes! However under acceleration it shakes horribly. Also I noticed that if I accelerate gently - lets say shift very early so that wheels don have much power provided to them, then car shakes less, but the moment I downshift and &quot;put pedal to the metal&quot; it shakes really badly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me what is going on? What would be an easy way to test (so I can do it) and what what should be changed/fix from cheaper to more expensive stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:32:29.030" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T00:25:16.587" Title="2000 Honda Accord Shakes under acceleration" Tags="|honda|accord|manual-transmission|acceleration|shaking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12317" CreationDate="2014-06-29T05:01:32.317" Score="8" ViewCount="103667" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past couple of months, I've been having trouble filling my gas tank. I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra, which has a 55-liter tank (approximately 14.5 US gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I buy gas, the pump clicks off after dispensing only two or three gallons. Knowing the tank can't possibly be full, I keep working on filling the tank, at a rate of less than a gallon per click, until 10-12 (possibly more) gallons later I see gas come out of the tube. (There's no other way to work out when my tank's full as I have no way of determining how much fuel is in the tank to begin with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I only experienced this issue at one particular gas station. Now, it happens everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is annoying for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes a long time to fill my tank, and I risk wasting gas if I overfill the tank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like to keep track of my mileage, but I can't do so if I don't know how much gas is being used. I don't really want to make gas overflowing be the point from which I measure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4376" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T02:42:19.430" Title="Why can't I fill my gas tank in one go?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12163" CreationDate="2014-06-29T06:45:16.607" Score="5" ViewCount="11610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a Mk1 Cabriolet that has been sitting for over a year. I am trying to get it road worthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good, but I am having an issue with the engine and braking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine stalls when I slow down, even a little. At first I thought this might be something to do with the brake booster vacuum hoses but the issue does not happen when I reverse and brake. In fact, I can reverse, lock up the wheels and the engines is happy. Nor could I find any indication of a vacuum leak - no whistling and all the hoses seem intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine idles, starts and accelerates fine and the brakes feel fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if its a petrol issue either. I've replaced the old petrol that was in the tank with new, fresh petrol and when the engine dies it just stops - doesnt sputter out like theres low fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model year is 1993, manual transmission. Engine is the 1.8lt, 8 valve, with the Bosch K-Jetronic injection system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried slowing down and braking in neutral - the problem still occurs. Its almost like the loss of forward momentum triggers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oUB4rzEs-k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIDEO OF PROBLEM (turn up volume a little)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ec4wQ-8Oqy4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BETTER VIDEO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T21:09:29.110" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:09:29.110" Title="Car stalls when braking (VW Mk1 Golf)" Tags="|brakes|fuel-system|golf|stall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-29T10:22:27.687" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a manual transmission repaired because it was slipping out of 4th gear while driving down the road. I took out the engine/transmission and gave the transmission to a local garage to overhaul. After getting the transmission back, I put everything back together and now the car is acting strangely. I put the car in 1st gear and start going and get a lot of clanking noises and can not shift to 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to doing this job, the car was shifting nicely. Now with the engine stopped and in neutral the car will roll easily. If I depress the clutch it will also roll easily. However if I put it into 1st gear with the clutch still depressed, it will stop rolling. I'm not sure if it is the clutch or transmission. I took out the clutch again but could not find the problem. But after putting the clutch back and taking it for a test, it was working properly. But then after 2 kilometres, I got the clanking back and grinding the gears trying to put it in 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be grateful for any help. The car is an Austin Allegro 1981.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tony&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6335" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T12:14:42.190" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T10:10:54.357" Title="Austin Allegro 1981 - Clutch is not working properly" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:53:19.553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9600" CreationDate="2014-06-29T12:20:18.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer: the plastic screws are really delicate and they do not turn with enough accuracy to really unlock the panel. The only way I have found is to insert a lever and pull harder, and the panel comes out without breaking anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4947" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T12:20:18.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11140" CreationDate="2014-06-29T22:34:01.640" Score="1" ViewCount="2579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had an issue come up yesterday where my Truck (1998 Mercedes Benz ML320) just suddenly said no oil and then started pinging a little then cut off. I threw a quart in ( i always keep one in the truck) and made it home with no more complaint UNTIL I got to my house, it cut off again and said no oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I changed the oil. The oil pan overflowed it was so full! ??? Ok, odd, put cork bolt back in after changing filter, and put in 4.5q of new, fresh oil. I've checked a 100 times over, nothing is leaking out, but my dip stick is clean!? I even climbed back under and pulled the bolt out of the oil pan, sure enough, squirted with fresh, clear (yellow/green tinted) oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought, wth?! I'm no mechanic but figured, maybe it just needs to run a little. I drove a quarter mile and back. 2wice the oil light cut on, then cut off shortly after. The 3rd times it stayed on till i finally cut the truck off. I got out, waited a few, checked the dipstick. Still clean!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it i can have a pan full of oil, fresh filter and all, and still get no oil reading on BOTH the electric sensor and the manual dipstick?! I'm so confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I reiterate, there is NOTHING leaking anywhere that I can see. There is no foam in the radiator fluid, no puddles under the truck, no oil on any of the motor. I just don't get it.  Oh and the little knock is gone, but I have to drive an hour a day for work, on the interstate, (70mph speed limit). I can't afford to break down and have no one to call on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T22:44:44.680" Title="Oil Says Empty, Dipstick clean, but just changed it all?! 1998 Merc Benz ML320" Tags="|oil|mercedes-benz|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11139" CreationDate="2014-06-29T22:44:44.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think I might be stupid. Should have checked around more. Checked around online, as I had before, but this time found a yahoo answer I had not seen before. &lt;code&gt;&quot;'98-'03 ML320 which would make it a gasoline engine and it uses 8 L or 8.5 quarts. &quot;&lt;/code&gt;. Looks like I far underestimated how much oil this beast uses. Guess I'll oil it up some more and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T22:44:44.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2014-06-30T03:00:56.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned mine with petrol, a lot of it. It actually cut out all the grease  because I could see the petrol turn black in colour when it leaked out from the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unfortunately now my bike sounds like it doesn't have an air filter. The filter is damaged or there is some air leak. So I suggest changing the air filter because it must be changed every 10,000 km (at least for mine, a KTM Duke 200). And remember, if the sound of your bike changes after you tampered with the filter, it's consuming more petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6340" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:50:00.467" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:50:00.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-30T06:29:03.683" Score="3" ViewCount="5091" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question may be related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3565/437&quot;&gt;this other one&lt;/a&gt;, but its answer is inadequate for me to be able to diagnose my problem and know what to do to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start my car in the morning (or sometimes after work if I work late), the car starts fine and idles normally. However, once I press the accelerator and pull out of my parking spot, the engine begins to run rough for 3-4 seconds. During this time, I have very little power/acceleration. Then, the engine smooths out, my power is restored, and all is fine until the next morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem has only recently started; there hasn't been any obvious trigger event, to the best of my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What’s going on, and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Hyundai Elantra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4376" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:41:34.913" Title="Why does my engine hesitate when I first start?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11134" CreationDate="2014-06-30T12:20:26.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have this all the time with an old car of mine - in that case it was to do with the angle and shape of the filler pipe, which stopped the fuel from flowing freely into the tank. I used to work around it by only pulling the trigger halfway, so the fuel flowed slower out of the nozzle - this allowed it time to flow into the tank...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say this has come on recently, it can't be a design flaw like that was, so I'd assume you have some kind of obstruction in the filler that is stopping the fuel from flowing freely into the tank. Have you checked for this? At the very least you'll have a flap on the inside of the filler, and probably some kind of anti-siphon valve...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T12:20:26.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11118" CreationDate="2014-06-30T12:26:17.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds quite likely - I can't picture the inside of a T2 at the moment, but you'll probably find the headlining goes behind the inside of the window rubbers - which looks neater and is easier for replacing windows - just a lot harder for replacing headliners!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact most cars usually have the window rubbers on fixed windows covering the edges of the interior trim - side panels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the liner damaged? I've seen faded but undamaged ones rejuvenated quite well by painting them - but obviously that's no good if it's torn...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T12:26:17.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11134" CreationDate="2014-06-30T18:09:55.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sound like you refueling control valve may be bad. This is a one way valve that connects the fuel tank to the EVAP Canister. It's purpose is to send vapors to the canister instead of the air when you are refueling. If it's plugged up it will not allow vapors to escape fast enough and cause the pump to shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T18:09:55.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T03:12:11.933" Score="3" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost my only key to my car and the dealership keeps telling us different things every time we talk to them. They said they can make a key from the vin number but that it won't start the car and that we would have to get my car towed (across the island at a huge cost to us) to the dealership. Is there a way to get a new key without towing my car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6347" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T12:20:53.990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T15:33:16.330" Title="2007 Chevy Malibu key" Tags="|chevrolet|key|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11182" CreationDate="2014-07-01T03:46:16.543" Score="1" ViewCount="9830" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Hyundai Sonata cold starts great (i.e. when I first get into the car for the day, morning or afternoon).  The problem I have is that when I stop the car after driving around for a while it sometimes sputters at start up.  It only happens if the motor is warm, and it has been parked for a medium period of time (i.e. about an hour).  Sometimes the sputtering doesn't occur immediately at start up, but when backing out of the parking spot, or I've even had it occur when pulling out of the parking lot itself.  After the sputter I give it a little more throttle, and it takes off.  It runs great after that.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T12:28:35.187" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T20:06:08.763" Title="Car sputtering with the engine hot at start (or within ~2 minutes)" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4598" CreationDate="2014-07-01T06:06:54.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive your car always check with your RPM meter and don't accelerate much more when you shifting a gear and while running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="6265" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T07:08:41.667" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T07:08:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4598" CreationDate="2014-07-01T07:24:14.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Because you need more Petrol per combustion stroke than Diesel. The air/fuel mixture for Petrol is about 15:1, whereas Diesel starts off at 18:1 and can go even leaner (more air, less fuel). That means that a 2000cc Diesel engine may burn 5ml of fuel per combustion stroke under operating condition X, whereas a 2000cc petrol engine will burn 6.5ml per stroke under the same operating conditions. That means that the petrol engine uses 30% more fuel than the Diesel engine under the same conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coupled with that, Diesel engines are also optimised for fuel economy through extremely high compression ratios, low-RPM gearing and mild cam profiling. They can do this because Diesel engines produce lots of torque via the combustion properties of Diesel fuel, and can therefore turn higher gears with ease. That means less RPM's is needed. On the other hand, Petrol engines are usually designed to provide a balance of performance and fuel economy. That's because Petrol does not produce as much torque, and therefore we need higher RPM to produce the same number of kiloWatts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see that a Diesel engine may produce 250Nm of torque and only 100kW of &quot;work&quot;. That's because &quot;work&quot; is calculated by multiplying Torque by RPM. A Petrol engine producing 250Nm would usually do 130 to 150 kiloWatts of &quot;work&quot;. So the petrol engine &quot;works&quot; harder than a Diesel engine, hence it needs more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T07:24:14.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2014-07-01T12:26:30.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealership should be able to make the key from the VIN. Since you do not have a registered key already, you will not be able to program it yourself. The vehicle will have to be somewhere it can be reprogrammed with the new key(s). You can call a lock smith to come out and reprogram the car, but chances are it's going to be just as expensive as having it towed (if you can find one which will do the work for you in the first place). If you had a key already, programming it yourself would be a breeze and take you only a few minutes. Your best bet here is to find the lost key, but I would bet this has already proven pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T12:26:30.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11159" CreationDate="2014-07-01T14:20:39.447" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved to UK from Germany, and I was used to sessional tyres back home. Summer for summers season and winter for winter season. Now I live in south of the UK and I was told that I'm not legally obligated to change tyres in winter becoause there is no snow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I invest into better summer tyres and use all year long? Or buy all-season ones? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T09:30:29.453" Title="What type of tyres I should use in UK?" Tags="|winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11160" CreationDate="2014-07-01T15:10:03.243" Score="3" ViewCount="2553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to buy a set of &quot;Brown Top&quot; fuel injectors, which are supposed to have come from a 1985 SVO 2.3 L Turbo. They (obviously) have a brown colored top section and a pintle. I can't see any part number on them. The replacements I've seen like the Python 649319, don't look exactly the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one know what the specs on the original injectors were? Low impedance, High Impedance, flow, PSI, connector type? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6351" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T21:13:16.577" Title="What is a replacement Fuel Injector for a 1985 Mustang SVO?" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T16:46:39.223" Score="6" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to rebuild a small motor to 1) refresh my memory of how four-stroke motors work, and 2) teach my sons how they work.  Which engine is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relatively inexpensive (&amp;lt; $200 used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requires only common tools (e.g. wrenches, socket set, screwdriver, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;readily available parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;appropriate for eventual use as a generator (not intended for dependable use, more like a science project)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many references to Briggs and Stratton 5hp motors as good general-purpose motors; anything special to know about them?  My previous experience with engine repair is limited to VW flat-four Beetles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T19:00:19.590" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T13:24:46.053" Title="Most appropriate small engine to rebuild for learning purposes?" Tags="|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2014-07-01T19:14:09.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because there are a variety of weather conditions in the UK, it would be a good investment to get all-season tires. It may not snow much, but it gets a fair amount of rain. Wet cold roads can be treacherous too, so better to be prepared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-season tires will provide good traction in a multitude of conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T19:14:09.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11157" CreationDate="2014-07-01T19:32:12.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an image with the different types of injectors. It looks as though the brown top injectors you are talking about are 36 lb injectors, meaning they can flow 36 lbs of fuel per hour at the stock fuel pressure. I don't know what the fuel pressure these were rated at for 36#'s, but if you have lower or higher fuel pressure in your vehicle, this will directly affect the amount of fuel which the injectors will allow for a given amount of time. (I am not sure, but believe Ford runs their fuel system at 30psi, someone correct me and I'll update if I'm wrong.) According the picture, these came stock in the 94-95 T-Bird Super Coupe. Note the red ones right next to them are good for 30#'s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzPhM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as low and high impedance, I found this blip &lt;a href=&quot;http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/faqs/#3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I know if my injector is low impedance or high impedance?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure the resistance across the two electrical terminals of the injector. If the resistance is between 1.5 and 4.0 Ohm you have low impedance injectors.  If the resistance is between 8 and 16 Ohm you have high impedance injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T19:32:12.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T00:14:53.373" Score="3" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1998 Merc-Benz ML320&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some Back Story&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had problems sense I got his thing. It had a slight radiator leak to start with that I was made aware of at purchase. Until now, that's all it was. Since purchase (within last month), I've replaced the MAF sensor, then had to replace o-ring thing under power-steering, finally, it suddenly lost oil, so I gave it an oil change last Sunday. Then yesterday, I got up and went to go to work, and it told me I had too much oil for a few mins. So turned around to go home and let some oil out. Problem solved. Then I tried to leave again, and it started over heating. I threw in more water and tried again, but this time I noticed it leaking like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point I was at some gas station, not far from home, but to scared to go anywhere else. The gas station claimed no hose and only had pure anti-freeze. I didn't know what to do so I bought the anti-freeze and put some in. I made my way home and then spent the rest of the day flushing, adding, and checking the coolant and test driving it. Finally, by about 6PM, all seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Today&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make sure the water is full and fill 2 jugs and head to work (roughly a 30+min drive on the interstate). All seems great! Till I stop at work. Immediately, only after I parked, it starts smoking/steaming real bad at the front, driver side. I look under, radiator fluid steady dripping. I pop the hood and notice fluid all over the motor, even up to the top of the firewall (i think that's the proper term). I let it sit while I worked; about 8 hours or so. I went to leave and filled it with water. After almost completely using the second jug, it seams to settle at &quot;Cold Full&quot;. I crank it up and hit the Interstate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: I have purchased a new radiator but it won't be here for a week and this is my only means of transportation. Wish I could afford a rental, but I can't even afford this issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving work, up until 60, everything was smooth as could be. As soon as I hit 61mph, it started vibrating bad. The faster I went, the worse it vibrated. I made it to the closest exit, about 10 miles from my work. Pulled into a truck stop, which I knew would have water. Refilled it till it settled and refilled my jugs of safety. I cautiously hit the interstate again and was pulled over for only going 60. So I tried again 70. The vibrating was not as heavy this time, but still persistent for anything over 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question is, if I baby it and continue to fill it with water, will it make it till I replace the radiator, or is this vibrating a sign of something much worse? Any tips on what I might can do to make things better? FYI: there's no way for me to avoid the Interstate for travel to and from work (approximately 30 mins one way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What I've Also Checked&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also checked the motor mounts; fine. I checked for foam or discoloration in the radiator fluid and found nothing out of the ordinary. I've checked all other fluids and they are all looking good and holding fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test today proved, it burns out the water faster, but the vibrations settle, almost to a stop at about 78mph. At 81 (i dared not go faster), it drives like it does at 50, no problems at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5093" LastEditorUserId="5093" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:56:43.523" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T13:36:49.120" Title="Strong vibrating over 60mph. 98 ML320" Tags="|mercedes-benz|radiator|vibration|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T03:21:22.903" Score="3" ViewCount="3158" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife drives a 2001 Buick Century with ~130k miles. A few days ago, she was driving it home when she described that several warning indicators came on suddenly, the windshield wipers stopped functioning, and she began to hear a winding noise. The car continued to drive home and when I opened the hood to look at it, I could smell a burning smell like an electrical fire. The car now does not hold an electrical charge for more than a few hours, but if I jump start it, it will run normally for at least a short period of time. I also checked the OBD2 fault codes and it reported P1404.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time, we were just about to buy a new car so we went ahead and bought one. This car now sits in the driveway as I try to sell it. I estimate it's not worth much more than $900, so I'm looking for suggestions on how to diagnose this car myself with minimal investment to see if there is a potential DIY fix that would make it more attractive to potential buyers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6355" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T06:48:39.620" Title="Sudden electrical problems in 2001 Buick Century" Tags="|electrical|battery|buick|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2014-07-02T04:15:52.090" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All this discussion and no definitive one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the auto manufacturers have there arguments and everybody else has there opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Prestone 50/50 extended life is Phosphate, Silicate, Nitrate and Borate f ee and uses demineralized water and is based on OAT and HOAT technoledgy of today, then there really isn't a problem here, is there??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6356" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T04:15:52.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11178" CreationDate="2014-07-02T04:48:31.890" Score="5" ViewCount="20434" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the parameters to determine whether or not motorcycle carbs are compatible with a certain engine? Is it just the size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a 1978 Suzuki GS1000 with Mikuni carbs, and it's quite difficult and expensive to find parts to rebuild. Can I just use a different type of carburetors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6357" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T20:53:36.443" Title="How to determine what carburetors will be compatible with a motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T05:36:20.230" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall antara and the warning light came on for what I thought was low oil so I refilled and checked dip stick and all was fine.&#xA;I have now noticed oil leaking from my car and on further inspection the light was an oil change needed. How much damage will I have caused? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:06:05.710" Title="Oil leak should have changed oil not added" Tags="|maintenance|starting|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T06:48:10.267" Score="3" ViewCount="6646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've opened the bonnet to discover that the oil cap is off, and oil is all over everything. How can I get it cleaned up, and what damage will it have caused, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T14:21:48.280" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T16:59:19.800" Title="Oil cap has come off and oil has spilled after adding oil" Tags="|maintenance|oil|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11150" CreationDate="2014-07-02T07:28:04.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to mind is an ignition problem. As in, either your coilpack, HT leads (the cable running from the coilpack to the spark plug) or a spark plug is faulty. THe symptoms are consistent with what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T07:28:04.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11166" CreationDate="2014-07-02T08:38:11.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have over-filled the oil reservoir, which is dangerous but not necessarily guaranteed to cause problems. As long as the excess oil has somewhere to go, in your case leaking out somewhere, You can still drive it to a workshop and have them take a look. Just drive carefully and don't let the revs go too high, i.e. stay under 3000RPM as much as possible and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: you may have a perished oil seal, aka a sump plug washer. They're supposed to be replaced every 10 000 miles/15000km. They're about the same price as a large chocolate, but they do a very important job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T13:06:05.710" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:06:05.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11167" CreationDate="2014-07-02T09:15:28.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't have caused any damage, as long as there is still plenty of oil left in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove it you will need to use some kind of degreaser - you can buy proper engine degreaser at many automotive suppliers. It is probably worth getting the engine bay properly steam cleaned however, as you'll never be able to get into all the little holes and corners yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T09:15:28.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11163" CreationDate="2014-07-02T09:23:58.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1404 is the error code for the EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the symptoms you describe, however, I'd suspect you have a short circuit somewhere - you need to locate this before you can fix it - the best way of doing this is with a multimeter and a wiring diagram for the car (which you should find in a workshop manual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charge the battery and remove the fuses, and connect the multimeter in current mode between the battery and the car - DO NOT start the car like this, you'll destroy the meter! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace fuses one at a time until you see a current register on the meter - this will tell you that which circuits are drawing current - when you get one that shouldn't be, you've got your culprit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery will probably need replacing, they don't tend to survive being repeatedly fully discharged - but don't do so until you've fixed the problem or you'll just destroy the new battery!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T09:23:58.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2014-07-02T09:30:29.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people just leave their summer tyres on all year - we don't tend to get enough inclement weather for it to make a huge difference. I prefer all-season tyres though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still swap to winter tyres if you want - this has been becoming more popular over the last few years. Check with your insurance company first though, as apparently some have been getting upset about people fitting differently-rated tyres to their cars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T09:30:29.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8971" CreationDate="2014-07-02T10:10:26.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Daihatsu Copen, the Front Upper Strutbar will do very little in the way of getting &quot;bang for your buck&quot;, particularly since the exiting ride quality can best be described as hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, you should be looking at the 4-Point Front H-Brace (UR-LA4-1667) and the 4-Point Mid Lower Bar (UR-ML4-1668) as they will offer better rigidity when turning - this is, of course, specific to this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the Copen has manufacturers braces in the place of the two mid brace position, they aren't great and over time will lead to &quot;wiggle&quot; as they wear out. This is particularly noticeable when turning sharply as there will be a non-trivial amount of body roll. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be careful going over speedbumps with either of the two bottom braces installed, as they stick out a bit more than the manufacturer's braces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T10:10:26.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T10:38:52.743" Score="0" ViewCount="1697" Body="&lt;p&gt;i need to know about advantages of octane 90 petrol VS octane 95 or unleaded. how it effect to fuel consumption of a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T11:32:23.090" Title="what is the advantage of octane 90 petrol vs octane 95? how it effect to fuel consumtion of a car?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|ignition|fuel-consumption|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-07-02T13:05:06.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11174" CreationDate="2014-07-02T11:32:23.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower octane fuels have no advantages other than being cheaper. Higher octane fuel simply makes it possible to run more advanced ignition timing, and therefore allows you to get more performance out of an engine, but you won't notice a difference in fuel consumption unless your car's software has been customised or you have a Carburetor specifically adjusted for higher octane fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T11:32:23.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11166" CreationDate="2014-07-02T11:45:22.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you checked your oil level and discovered it was low, then topped it off correctly, you'll have caused your engine absolutely no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem as though you have other issues with the oil leakage. You'll need to take this to a shop to get the oil leak itself sorted out. Depending on the amount of oil being lost through the leak, you can drive it with the leak as long as you stay on top of the oil level and ensure that you keep your oil reservoir full. Mind you, with the leak, you'll be polluting the environment, staining your driveway/garage floor, and wasting money (with replacement oil), so take it for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T11:45:22.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T12:17:03.670" Score="0" ViewCount="17371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for RT-AWD cars with automatic AWD which are usually FWD but permanent AWD cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T19:13:56.910" Title="Which Honda cars are equipped with permanent AWD?" Tags="|honda|4wd|awd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2014-07-02T12:22:57.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A carburetor is a carburetor: it doesn't matter what kind it is - it allows air to flow through it and meters the fuel to produce the optimal air/fuel ratio to allow the engine to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you'll have two things to look at: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, fitment.&lt;/strong&gt; Will a different carburetor physically fit within the confines of the current carb? Will the carb output size match up with the intake on the cylinder? Can you adapt the throttle cable to run the new carb? You'll have to ensure the draft is the same (side-draft carb replaced with a side-draft carb, etc). You could put a down draft carb in place of a side-draft, but it would necessitate some unwanted plumbing, pure ugliness at the carb location, as well as a probable loss of performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second, capacity.&lt;/strong&gt; Is the CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating of the new carb approximately the same as the old carb? Is the new carb going to provide the right amount of fuel for your engine? If not exactly the same, can the new carb be adjusted (through jetting changes) to provide the right amount? Remember, a 1000cc engine from 1978 is not going to have the same fuel needs that today's 1000cc engine will have. Motorcycle technology has come a long way since 78, that's for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a direct replacement, I see advertised the Keihin pn# CR29-GS10-E as a direct replacement. It is ~$2-300 less than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dynoman.net/bikepages/gs1000/&quot;&gt;Mikuni carbs on the same site&lt;/a&gt;. I was also able to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/suzuki/gs1000/?filters%5bcategory%5d=carb&amp;amp;filters%5bfitting%5d=custom&quot;&gt;rebuild kits at this website&lt;/a&gt;, which seems to be much cheaper than just buying different carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T12:22:57.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11177" CreationDate="2014-07-02T13:40:35.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get the CR-V, Pilot, Ridgeline, and Crosstour with the AWD option. Understand that these vehicles will not engage all four wheels at all times. If you are looking for a vehicle where all four wheels are engaged all of the time, I don't think you'll find one, whether it's a Honda or not. 4WD/AWD vehicles are designed with a bias built into the transfer case which puts ~60% of the power to the main drive wheels and the rest to the alternate wheels. The alternate wheels do not engage until the mains start to slip. This is called a torsion bias.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:40:35.413" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2014-07-02T16:16:34.923" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything from OBDC?  Sometimes it will record a pending fault that will not light up the &quot;Check Engine&quot; light.  If you don't have an OBDC reader, most parts stored will read it for you.&#xA;Check the Idle Air Control Valve by disconnecting the air hose going into it and plugging the hose.  If it stops stalling, that's the problem, try removing the IAC assembly and cleaning.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it still stalls, reconnect the IAC hose and clean out the air intake pathway, check air filter, etc.  Clean the throttle body with intake cleaner, including the flaps/springs/etc. Clean the Mass Air Flow sensor with MAF cleaner (that is very sensitive to the solvents, make sure you are using real MAF cleaner)&#xA;If it still stalls, check fuel filter, replace if it hasn't been replaced in your maintenance window.&#xA;If it still stalls, it could be transmission sensors (if auto-tranny), load sensors, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T16:16:34.923" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11161" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:13:17.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the radiator overflow tank properly connected and sealed?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Overheating can be caused by the low coolant, caused by the radiator leak.  Expanding coolant would expand out the hole in the radiator making the problem worse.  Repairing or replacing the radiator would fix that.&#xA;Overheating can also be caused by a blockage in the coolant passages, which would cause a lot of extra pressure (coolant expansion as it heats and pressure from the water pump).  That extra pressure could be overloading the radiator cap, which would throw coolant all over the engine compartment.  Backflushing the cooling system should dislodge any physical blockage (kits available at most parts stores).  The blockage could also be a stuck thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked everything without driving?  Pop the hood, fill the radiator, run at idle until it reaches operating temp, look for signs of coolant leaks.  If it will overheat at idle, watch for leaks as it overheats; if it doesn't overheat at idle then run it at 2500 rpm for a few minutes until it does overheat and check for leaks.  You might see the coolant bubbling around the radiator cap, around the radiator hoses, etc.  It might just be the radiator drain plug (I think that's on the driver side, bottom of the radiator).  Do these checks without driving so you don't get confused with coolant spraying around the engine bay due to road speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd gamble that the vibration is a completely different problem.  It could be wheel balance, u-joints, suspension mounts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3959" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T13:36:49.120" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T13:36:49.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11150" CreationDate="2014-07-02T20:06:08.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot-start problems are indicative of loss of pressure in the fuel line. This is usually caused by a leaky fuel injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start. Of course, if there is a fuel leak then the fuel may have partially vaporized by the time it reaches the fuel injectors, resulting in the &quot;sputtering&quot; symptoms that you have experienced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T20:06:08.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T21:56:42.120" Score="3" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally while I'm driving (usually when I go over a small bump or ramp on the road), I hear a slight clunk under my hood and my Traction Control System and Anti-lock Brake System lights turn on and don't turn off until I shut off the car.  The next time I start up my car, the lights stay off until the same thing happens again.  I don't feel any difference in the performance of my car (before or after the lights go on), though it may be too subtle to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem, and what should I do to fix it?  I drive a 1999 Pontiac Montana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6360" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:15:14.963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:15:14.963" Title="Why Do My ABS and TCS Lights Come On?" Tags="|pontiac|abs|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-03T03:34:28.110" Score="2" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed a relatively harmless, but particularly annoying issue has cropped up with my 2004 Mercury Monterey (more-or-less identical to a Ford Freestar of the same model year). Normally, I turn on the turn signal prior to making a turn/lane change/etc. (because I'm a decent driver), and the turn signal turns itself off after I turn the wheel to straighten the vehicle once I've finished turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, there's some sort of sprocket/spring system linked to the steering wheel that pulls the turn signal stick back into the central/off position once the steering wheel turns in the direction opposite of what the turn signal indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this mechanism now seems to activate the opposite turn signal instead of just turning the first one off. For example, if I put on my left turn signal, turn left (turning the steering wheel left in the process), then turn the wheel right to straighten the car out, the left turn signal will turn off and the right turn signal will turn itself off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car has already had a stupid number of problems in its 10 years of existence (including, but not limited to, a recalled torque converter, a water-damaged engine computer, another water-damaged engine computer, a bad anti-theft module, a faulty canopy wiring harness, and other maladies) - we probably could have gotten it replaced under Lemon laws if the problems were actually dealt with when they cropped up. I'm hoping this is something free/cheap/easy to fix that can be done at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide insight as to why this might be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6361" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T09:55:56.237" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T11:26:27.010" Title="2004 Mercury Monterey - [Self-canceling] turn signals turn on after a turn" Tags="|turn-signal|steering-wheel|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11187" CreationDate="2014-07-03T08:16:18.210" Score="3" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;While camping in hot weather, pine tree sap dripped onto the windows and exterior of the parked car. The drops of tree sap are sticky, and verrrrrry slightly runny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's easy to remove from the Windows using a blade meant for cleaning a glass stovetop, unless you have better ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously I won't use a blade on the car's paint. How can I remove the tree sap from the paint? Can I heat it with a hairdryer and wipe it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T10:32:14.313" Title="Removing tree sap from exterior?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11185" CreationDate="2014-07-03T10:32:14.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, don't use a hairdryer as I believe this will actually make it harder to get the sap off of the vehicle or at the very least will ultimately cause finish damage. Here are a few things you should try to remove the sap safely when you first discover the sap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean your car as soon as possible.&lt;/strong&gt; The longer tree sap or any substances like bird droppings or insect remains are left on the surface of the vehicle, the more difficult they are to remove. For the least amount of effort and the most success at a sparkling car exterior, act fast to remove tree sap from your car. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use products like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awdirect.com/goo-gone-16-oz-liquid-multi-purpose-remover-77133/truck-cleaning/?gclid=CODJ_rD0qL8CFZRj7AodO2IAbA&amp;amp;epc=AWSEPLA&amp;amp;CID=AWSEPLA&amp;amp;ci_src=17588969&amp;amp;ci_sku=GGB&amp;amp;ef_id=U7UtAwAABPnXaieD:20140703101427:s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goo Gone Automotive Formula&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/16888962?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;selectedSellerId=0&amp;amp;adid=22222222227017003433&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=35532718956&amp;amp;wl4=&amp;amp;wl5=pla&amp;amp;wl6=52926643116&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Follow the instructions on the container. This is the most highly recommend way to remove the sap. The solution is formulated to dissolve sap the best without hurting your car's exterior. Place some of the remover on your rag, and hold the rag on the sap while gently applying pressure. The sap will soak up some of the remover. Using the rag, rub in a circular motion to lift the sap from the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0tlg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goo Gone&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spray WD-40 on the tree sap&lt;/strong&gt;. The sap will begin to absorb the solvent. Let it sit for a few minutes. You can use your rag to lift the loosened sap from the car. Something a lot of people do not know about WD-40 is it was originally designed as a cleaner for airplane exterior skin. It also has the added benefit of displacing water, thus the &quot;WD&quot; designation for &quot;Water Displacement&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish with a regular car wash and wax.&lt;/strong&gt; The car wash will help remove any residue left over from the sap or the cleaner used to remove it. Any solution that would deteriorate paint will be washed away. A new coating of wax is recommended to renew the protective coating on the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I pulled this information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Tree-Sap-From-Your-Car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. I did not include several of the options they listed because I believe these procedures run a high risk of damaging the finish of your vehicle. I have used the processes listed here with good results.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T10:32:14.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11184" CreationDate="2014-07-03T11:26:27.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems your multifunction switch is probably bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13OnV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be fairly easy to pull this switch to inspect it. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.allexperts.com/q/Steering-Column-Repair-2047/2009/3/2005-Ford-Freestar-Turn.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions to gain access&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn signal canceling is part of the function of the 'multifunction switch'.  This is a switch mounted on the steering column by 2 screws.  Once you take the covers off, you can see the screws, remove them and replace the switch.  The new one will cancel just fine.  There is no microswitch in this system, the clicking noise you hear used to be a plastic spring loaded finger bypassing the canceling function for the opposite direction when turning the wheel.  That's what broke in the switch and now it doesn't extend anymore.  You will better understand when you buy the new switch for $75-$100 and try it in your hand.  Here is the Ford part number, (5F2Z13K359AAA) but you can probably get it cheaper at an auto parts store rather than the dealer.  It will be fine&#xA;Also, here is the procedure for taking the covers off.&#xA;First remove the three-four screws holding the covers together from the bottom.  Then you should be able to remove the bottom column cover.  The lock cylinder is in the way for the top cover, so you need to remove that also.  Look under the column for the access hole to release the lock.  In the &amp;quot;On&amp;quot; position you can then press the release pin with a 1/8&amp;quot; drill (or similar tool) and simply slide out the lock.  Then the upper cover will come off and you can proceed to the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally suggest you remove the switch prior to purchasing a new one to see if there is something stuck in the mechanism (the part of the steering system which actually kicks the switch off). As an aside, looking online for the part, it seems the price of these items has gone up a little bit, more like in the $100-125 range. Should be an easy purchase and an easy replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T11:26:27.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11190" CreationDate="2014-07-03T12:40:59.840" Score="2" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to buy this car, but one thing worries me - ABS is always trying to interfier, no matter what weather conditions is outside. It looks like he is always detecting a threat, every single time I brake. Then I reach the speed above 50 MPH ABS throws an error and stops working untile next time you start your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous owner says that this never happened before, can this be caused by different tyres on front axis? I know that this is a big no no, but they need to replaced anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T14:11:29.350" Title="NISSAN Primera P12 2006 - ABS is working constantly" Tags="|nissan|abs|primera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11189" CreationDate="2014-07-03T13:42:02.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is enough of a variance in tire diameter, it could most definitely be the problem. If the front tires are registering one speed and the rear tires are registering another speed, the difference could be causing the ABS computer to have fits. The difference would need to be a bit though, but don't know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what the difference would be (is probably different when considering different ABS types/manufacturers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this might be the problem, there could be problems with the wheel sensors or the ABS unit itself. You'd be best served to get it to a mechanic who can read the ABS codes and see what is going on for sure (in other words: don't guess what's wrong, know what's wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would ensure this gets fixed prior to purchasing the car. If it's only the tires, have the owner get them changed over to the correct size (or at least all matching). In states which have a safety inspection, any dash lights like this would cause a failure. I'm sure if you're in Europe (UK, right?), those inspections are even more stringent (at least the ones I faced in Germany were pretty tough). There aren't many good reasons to purchase a car which has issues before you even get it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T18:46:39.373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T18:46:39.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11197" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:28:48.080" Score="1" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attached is the picture of a BMW 318 TDS Gasoil Prepump. That prepump is literally inside the sealed fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it contains a small electrical motor, in which 12V of electricity is sent, mainly when the car is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How on Earth can that be without any risk of explosion? There can easily be sparks inside the motor! And if there were some air inside the fuel tank, it would explode ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I think we are told not to have a phone call when filling the gas tank ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Shwdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T22:25:33.147" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T22:25:33.147" Title="Why is there no explosion risk while there is a gasoil pre-pump immersed in the fuel tank?" Tags="|oil|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11191" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:42:35.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled this from the talk side of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3AFuel_pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; page on electric fuel pumps, which I think explains it pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am an auto mechanic who also has a chemistry background. The reason electric, tank- mounted fuel pumps do not cause explosions is that the concentration of fuel vapors is too high to allow an explosive mixture. The volatile (which in this context refers to a tendency to evaporate) nature of gasoline causes fuel vapors to take up any empty space as the fuel tank is emptied. Even if you completely empty a tank, open its access ports, and allow it to sit open, the concentration of vapors INSIDE the tank will still be too high to explode. Now, OUTSIDE the tank is a different story, and for this reason, one must use caution when performing any sort of repair or maintenance to a fuel tank, regardless of the type of pump used on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T14:42:35.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:57:12.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fuel efficiency&lt;/a&gt; measures how far you travel on a given amount of fuel. It is typically measured in Miles per Gallon (mpg) or Kilometres per Litre (km/l)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-07-23T11:50:41.773" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T11:50:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:57:12.383" Score="0" Body="Use for questions related to fuel economy." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:21:13.260" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:21:13.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11195" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" Score="0" Body="questions regarding manual transmissions and gearboxes" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T14:58:07.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11191" CreationDate="2014-07-03T17:20:32.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add a little bit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/11192/85&quot;&gt;Paulster2's answer&lt;/a&gt; the upper and lower &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flammability_limit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Explosive Limits&lt;/a&gt; of Gasoline is 7.6% and 1.4% respectively. This means that a concentration outside of those limits will either be to rich or lean to burn. And since Gasoline's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flash point&lt;/a&gt; is -45 °F (-43 °C) it's pretty much always putting off vapors, which would push any air out of the tank. It's next too if not impossible to get a high enough concentration of air in the tank to make the the tank explode under normal conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the phone comment, outside the tank it only takes a concentration of 1.4% (not much) to catch fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T17:20:32.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:04:05.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vboTBpHWHKM&amp;amp;fulldescription=1&amp;amp;client=mv-google&amp;amp;gl=US&amp;amp;guid=&amp;amp;hl=nl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vboTBpHWHKM&amp;amp;fulldescription=1&amp;amp;client=mv-google&amp;amp;gl=US&amp;amp;guid=&amp;amp;hl=nl&lt;/a&gt;.        This  will happen when you're driveing diffrant size of tire on an awd. And 4wd cars that have 4high and 4low locking  diffranciAls  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6364" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T20:04:05.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:31:19.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same noise and problemen on 4h and 4low with my opel campo 3.1l 4wd because the gear ratio on the front diff wasn't maching up with the rear diff when driving with differant tire size . When i change all 4 tires with the same size everything just works fine.  b&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6364" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T20:31:19.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11202" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:56:33.143" Score="2" ViewCount="4534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that a larger wheel (diameter) in the front can produce quicker turns on a motorcycle. How much larger should a front wheel be than a rear wheel on a road bike (if at all)? Will this affect the odometer/speedometer readings? Gas mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6357" LastEditorUserId="6357" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T21:28:57.093" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T09:09:19.263" Title="Should my motorcycle wheels be two different size diameters?" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11201" CreationDate="2014-07-03T21:34:15.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A larger front wheel is more stable than a smaller one, so theoretically should keep you more stable in high speed turns. But, you'll be messing up the front fork geometry (rake and trail) which may have unforeseen consequences with the suspension and steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely have more trouble in parking lots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6365" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T21:34:15.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11222" CreationDate="2014-07-04T12:51:59.113" Score="2" ViewCount="4030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to source an individual part for the rear drivers side tail/brake light. All I need is the bulb holder as all the electrical points in the one I have have rusted away. Unfortunately I have been unable to find one anywhere. Either online or locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I can only possibly buy a replacement if I replace the whole lighting unit as pictured. But I really only need to one bulb holder. In the image below it would be the one to the far left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uoama.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6367" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T10:04:35.590" Title="Toyota Yaris rear bulb holder sourcing" Tags="|toyota|parts|lights|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11209" CreationDate="2014-07-04T14:13:20.853" Score="2" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hearing a metallic grinding and scraping noise mostly on cold start, at low RPMs, and at low gears. On cold start, it grinds for a few seconds and then eventually goes away. After starting, the noise is worst when I first lightly depress the accelerator, and goes away as I depress it more. I've noticed it gets worse sometimes when I shift from park to reverse or drive, so I have a feeling it's my transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is certainly coming from under the car (not the engine), but after getting underneath, my friend and I could not find the source (the car was already warm at that point). We topped off my transmission fluid, but that didn't change anything; we couldn't find the dipstick to actually check the levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is an automattic 2003 Saturn L200 with 89,500 miles. I just recently changed the oil. I bought it last July and had a number of parts fail on me, so I'm not confident the previous owner took pristine care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I live in Rochester, NY and so the car had to survive a harsh winter. I had no problems during the winter, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6369" LastEditorUserId="6369" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T14:21:00.757" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T02:57:16.093" Title="2003 Saturn L200 - Grinding noise under car on cold start" Tags="|saturn|cold-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2014-07-04T17:00:01.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say try checking level of gearbox oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T17:00:01.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:51:39.503" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;trying to get more power out of an engine  is forced to put more tension on crankshaft,pistons bearings and clutch, the engine is only tested to run on original specifications properly,john.ps buy a car with a larger engine ,less fatigue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6372" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T22:51:39.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2014-07-05T02:57:16.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was just my heat shield rattling. I put a hose clamp on it to secure it like in this video &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/OO03n22rwfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/OO03n22rwfg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything to do with the transmission (or torque converter, as one friend suggested) was ruled out because the car drives without any problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6369" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T02:57:16.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2014-07-05T05:20:02.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doubt if my two cents is asked for but rust is oxidization. It's just burning real slow. Torch with a brazing or welding tip is best. The rust disdappears like magic when you burn it the rest of the way up. I find no need for red hottin' it. Cast iron is brittle. Get a 650 degree heat stick and warm things evenly and cool slow coveted all up in vermiculite. Manifolds crack, then we do. Be gentle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6374" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:57:31.837" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:57:31.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T06:38:39.070" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was taught to drive, I was told that &quot;slogging&quot; the engine - open throttle at low RPM, e.g. 1000 RPM - was bad for it. Particularly when driving up a hill as that means you'll be stuck at that RPM for longer. It'd &quot;wreck the engine&quot; and all that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about this recently, and can't see why it would be, unless the timing of the engine was poorly designed for lower RPMs. That doesn't make sense to me, given cars happily idle at 700 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's not good to have a full-force explosion without the cylinder moving quick enough to quickly exhaust the pressure, might lead to high pressure and heat for too long a time period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though these are just my technical musings. So does it damage the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T06:38:39.070" Title="Does &quot;slogging&quot; an engine (open throttle at very low RPM) increase mechanical wear?" Tags="|engine|rpm|throttle|wear|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-05T16:31:45.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T16:48:01.143" Score="2" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get conflicting info concerning small 4-cycle engine storage and would appreciate any recommendations. My snowthrower is stored in the off season April thru Oct. The manual for the engine says run the engine 'til dry, remove the spark plug and shoot in some WD40.That is what I do. But the manual for the thrower itself says fill up the tank and add a stabilizer since air and moisture in an empty tank can cause corrosion and other issues. Which is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a small backup power generator which has to be ready to go in all seasons.Thunderstorms in summer, snowstorms in winter equals risk of power outage.&#xA;My practice with the generator is to never drain the gas but run the engine about 2-3 times annually. Is that a good practice?....I still have a concern that the gas can get stale but who wants to change out (siphon) the gas? I do add a stabilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&#xA;Extonite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6377" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T19:19:35.557" Title="Small Engine Storage" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|ethanol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11213" CreationDate="2014-07-05T19:19:35.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My snowthrower is stored in the off season April thru Oct. The manual for the engine says run the engine 'til dry, remove the spark plug and shoot in some WD40.That is what I do. But the manual for the thrower itself says fill up the tank and add a stabilizer since air and moisture in an empty tank can cause corrosion and other issues. Which is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the possibility of shutting the fuel off (or installing a shut off valve), then both are actually right. First, always use fuel stabilizer (such as Sta-Bil) in your small equipment gasoline. This ensures you will never have to worry about it. Try to keep no more gas on hand than you'll need for a season, but since you have a snow thrower, this may be a moot point. Second, when you get done using the equipment, whether you believe you are going to use it again or not anytime soon, shut off the cut off valve and run the &lt;em&gt;carburetor&lt;/em&gt; dry. Thirdly, fill up the tank with treated gas so it is full. If the fuel tank is plastic (as most newer equipment is these days), this is not as much of a worry. The fuel stabilizer actually keeps the fuel from absorbing any real amount of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also have a small backup power generator which has to be ready to go in all seasons.Thunderstorms in summer, snowstorms in winter equals risk of power outage. My practice with the generator is to never drain the gas but run the engine about 2-3 times annually. Is that a good practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping up maintenance on any small equipment is a good practice. There are two things I would change in your routine. First, if there isn't a cut off valve, install one. These can be purchased online or from just about any small equipment shop for a small amount of money. All you have to do is cut the hose going from the tank to the carb and throw the valve in between using the small clamps that usually come with the valve. After you run the gennie, shut off the valve and run the carb dry. Secondly, when running the gennie during its normal maintenance, attach something so it is running under load. I usually attach my shop vac to it as it draws on the order of 12 amps. It doesn't completely utilize everything my generator can produce, but puts enough load on it to give it a workout. You should, however, try to run all of the tank out every season. Fuel, even fuel containing stabilizer is only good for two years max, so running it out every year is a good thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T19:19:35.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11634" CreationDate="2014-07-06T06:25:03.533" Score="2" ViewCount="2957" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Hornet 250 right-hand indicator often takes up to 5 seconds to start flashing, especially when it's cold. The left seems to be fine. When I flick the switch I can hear the bimetallic strip going very fast (several times a second) then it slows down when the indicator starts. The part is shown below - it doesn't seem possible to get into it to clean the contacts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can do? If I buy a new part will this fix the problem or is there a chance it's something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmZNz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="206" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T04:42:29.933" Title="How can I fix a slow indicator on a Honda Hornet?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-06T12:06:18.843" Score="4" ViewCount="36858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am studying valve timing diagrams. Many of them show something like (for instance) the exhaust valve stays opens till ~20 degrees after TDC and the intake valve opens ~12 degrees before TDC. Wouldn't this mean that the valves are open and pushed into the combustion chamber during TDC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so I have two questions,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wouldn't the piston hit the valve and damage it as it reaches TDC?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The explosion wouldn't be so good since there would be ports still open when the spark fires, making poor compression?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? Am I reading the timing diagrams wrongly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I would like to add tags like camshaft, timing diagram, valve timing, piston, TDC etc but they are not in the predefined list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6380" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T14:44:53.290" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T11:50:22.817" Title="4 stroke valve timing diagram: if valves are open during TDC, wouldn't they hit the piston?" Tags="|camshaft|valve-timing|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11218" CreationDate="2014-07-06T15:03:51.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, remember that we are talking about four different engine cycles here: Intake; Compression; Ignition/Combustion; Exhaust. Top dead center (TDC) happens between two of these cycles: between Compression and Combustion, then again between Exhaust and Intake. The reason the piston and valve do not come into contact is because either the piston is following the exhaust valve, or the intake valve is following the piston. When I say the  &quot;follows&quot; the piston, or visa-versa, I mean to say as the piston comes up, the exhaust valve closes which does not allow for each of them to come into contact. When I say the intake valve follows the piston, it opens slowly enough for the piston to be out of the way before any contact happens. (NOTE: &lt;em&gt;Slow&lt;/em&gt; is a relative term here ... think piston speed v. valve open/close speed.) &lt;strong&gt;The valve doesn't just open completely all at once, it gradually opens as it follows the cam lobe profile.&lt;/strong&gt; Also, this doesn't mean that valves and pistons don't share the same space, they just do it during different times of the cycles. These types of motors are referred to &lt;em&gt;interference&lt;/em&gt; motors. If a timing belt were to slip or break while the engine is running, catastrophic effects will occur, causing major engine damage (usually requiring complete engine replacement, but at a minimum can &quot;just&quot; require head work or replacement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The explosion wouldn't be so good since there would still be ports open when the spark plug fires making poor compression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For almost the entire cycles of compression and combustion, intake and exhaust valves are all closed, allowing for a complete sealing of the combustion area and helping to absorb all of the power which is available. Hopefully not confusing the issue, I will tell you that the intake valve remains open for a short time during the beginning of the compression cycle, as well as the exhaust valve opening before the piston gets to the bottom of the combustion cycle, but specifics of why this happens is probably best left for another writ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, valve timing is a lot more complex than it looks on the outside. Engine designers take a lot into account when making all of these things happen so failure does not occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T01:34:30.527" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T01:34:30.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11243" CreationDate="2014-07-07T01:04:13.930" Score="3" ViewCount="55874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a new, 2014 Volkswagen Jetta TDI car. I have a 35 mile commute to work on pretty much all highway. I want something good on gas mileage, so I heard the Jetta TDIs get awesome gas mileage. My only concern is the maintenance frequency (and cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question(s) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How frequently does the oil need to be changed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other general maintenance items I need to do during the first 40-60k miles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6382" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T21:02:28.747" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T01:27:16.380" Title="What is the cost of general maintenance on VW Jetta TDI (diesel)" Tags="|maintenance|vw|oil-change|tdi|jetta|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11204" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:30:08.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't tried a dealer parts department, I would suggest that first (taking some doughnuts may encourage them to spend time tracking down a part for you).  They really have the most complete parts databases, especially for body parts like this.  If you can get a part number from them, you can possibly find a cheaper source for it online (You want someplace that will sell you the part for a price somewhere between wholesale and retail, the closer to wholesale the better).  Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/41187-yaris-bulb-holders-and/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum posts&lt;/a&gt; I saw indicate availability, for a price, though it wasn't clear to me if it was the whole assembly or the individual holders.  Given the complaints on pricing, I'd guess possibly the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the assemblies I see on eBay are without the bulb holders.  I suspect this is a common fault and a highly desired part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always try a boneyard (junkyard).  If you're in the US, Pick-n-Pull is my favorite.  Given the eBay situation though, I suspect you may find the inventory picked over.  In that case, keep checking until a fresh one comes in and then head down and get to it before anybody else does.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1321" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T20:54:10.797" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:54:10.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-07T08:19:19.113" Score="0" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I install nano fuel economizer for carb type toyota 3A engine? Will it help to improve fuel consumption of my car without any issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T15:15:47.563" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T15:40:59.883" Title="Can I install nano fuel economizer for carb type toyota 3A engine?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|carburetor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11227" CreationDate="2014-07-07T09:59:37.567" Score="3" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ford fiesta mk6. Can someone please identify the hose on the left (green square) ? It's cracked right now and it's leaking cooling liquid (I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqyUB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Fiesta TDCi Engine Bay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: At high revs or when going uphill the car puts out a lot of smoke. Could this be related ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6386" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T10:26:01.953" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T10:31:59.683" Title="Ford Fiesta Mk6 engine component" Tags="|engine|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11225" CreationDate="2014-07-07T10:31:59.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part you are pointing to is the air intake for your engine. This pipe should be coming from the intercooler. Since your engine is a turbo diesel, this would be directly related to why your engine is smoking (assuming you mean it's smoking out the tail pipe). What is happening is if there is a crack in this pipe, your engine is not receiving all of the air pressure it should be receiving from the turbo charger. The engine itself is dumping fuel at the rate at which it would normally (especially if the crack is after the MAF), so not only is all of the fuel going to waste, it also is not getting properly burned. I would venture to assume your power is down quite a bit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get this pipe replaced as soon as possible and it should clear up your smoking issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T10:31:59.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11224" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:17:03.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can install it, but no, won't do anything for fuel consumption. Carburetors don't automatically adjust themselves to take advantage of new fuel characteristics or other changes in the engine's combustion characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nano fuel economizer does the same job that your engine oil does. So, if you regular put new oil in your car, you're already doing as much for performance and fuel consumption as this product will ever do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:17:03.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:28:58.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problems like this are addressed in Charles Probst's excellent reference, &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0dumo4gAhK0C&amp;amp;q=Bosch+Fuel+Injection+%26+Engine+Management&amp;amp;dq=Bosch+Fuel+Injection+%26+Engine+Management&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=hoe6U9_eOY_A7AawyYDYCQ&amp;amp;ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch Fuel Injection &amp;amp; Engine Management&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can gather, the Mk1 Golf utilizes a basic K-Jetronic system illustrated in the diagram below&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; (which operates on the principle of continuous injection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cry5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Continuous Injection System Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stalling symptom is an indication that the air-fuel mixture is not being metered correctly. Given that this happens on coast-down, it seems that the amount of fuel is not dialed back quickly when the throttle plate closes, resulting in too much fuel and not enough air, causing the engine to stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the troubleshooting guide, there could be many causes for this. Based on your symptoms, I would consider the following to be prime suspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sticking/binding control plunger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plunger is what governs how much fuel goes to the injector from the fuel distributor. If it is sticking open, this would explain the symptoms you're experiencing during coast-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the sensor plate is mechanically linked to the plunger, it is possible to test if either sensor plate or control plunger is binding by lifting the sensor plate to see if it offers resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to clean the control plunger in case it is sticking due to fuel residue/impurities.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Faulty fuel distributor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there is no test outlined in the book that allows one to determine if it is at fault. If it is at fault, the only remedy is to replace it since it is calibrated when manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spannerhead.com/2012/01/30/atomizing-fuel-continuous-injection/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.spannerhead.com/2012/01/30/atomizing-fuel-continuous-injection/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T13:38:13.233" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:38:13.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:14:23.563" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had several cars, which have all been &quot;sporty&quot;, fuel economy has never been a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is. So I've bought a little 1.2 petrol which gives me 65mpg on the motorway/highway and 40mpg around town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car weighs a shade over 800kg and has 165/70/14 tyres on as standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it's safe to fit narrower tyres, and maybe even increase the rolling radius to further improve fuel economy. I understand narrower tyres offer less grip, but during my current need for fuel economy I'm driving well within the limits and being very gentle with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts / advice is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6389" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:35:35.133" Title="Using narrower tyres than were fitted as standard, for reduced rolling resistance = &gt; fuel economy" Tags="|tires|wheels|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11231" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:35:35.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things: &lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, you could get skinnier tires on there, but I wouldn't. You won't gain any mileage from doing so. You'll incur the cost of tires, so will cost you more in the process. &lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, putting taller tires on there to increase your rolling radius will hamper improved fuel mileage. The reason is because taller tires require more torque to run the vehicle. To provide the additional torque, you'll be harder into the gas pedal and using more fuel to make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside ... you are already getting 65/40mpg ... &lt;em&gt;and you want to improve on this&lt;/em&gt;? I doubt it's going to happen, especially with a 1.2L engine. Just not much room there to get better mileage. There aren't too many vehicles on the road today getting better mileage that what you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:35:35.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="362" CreationDate="2014-07-07T17:40:10.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle, the twin intakes with aftermarket filters get too much airflow and cause a loss of power. This can be corrected, but depending on the limits of your ECU you may need to spend some extra $$$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T17:40:10.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7435" CreationDate="2014-07-07T19:35:27.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day I am from Trinidad and own an Altezza with a 1G- FE engine. I couldn't help but notice you mentioned that you washed your air filter. I previously used a K&amp;amp;N air filter in it and purchased a regular replaceable Sakura air filter for it . The Sakura was supposed to be used for periods when the K &amp;amp; N needed to be cleaned since proper drying is necessary for proper and safe function of the k &amp;amp; n . Anyway, when I did start this practice of using the sakura, I realised a significant increase in fuel economy. Personally, without any research being done, I believe this is as a result of the k&amp;amp;n filter having a thinner filter media which allows more air into the intake manifold which causes the brain to increase the amount of fuel it sends to the engine to compensate for the increase in air. This is my personal experience and may be subject to correction but it happened with me . I hope it may have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6392" LastEditorUserId="6392" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T20:00:28.583" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:00:28.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7892" CreationDate="2014-07-07T19:59:07.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what it sounds like the light is showing after the glow plugs are hot and Ready glow plugs take around 15-30 seconds to warm up and if you are turning it over and over without them hot 1. It will not start 2. You are going to throw codes. How long do you wait to start turning over the engine after you turn the key on? On a car in cold weather you should be waiting about 30 seconds. On Big trucks and tractors you are looking at more like 60 seconds! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6393" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T19:59:07.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2014-07-07T20:09:23.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can some times happen after periods where the car is not driven fast or for long periods of time. Engines can build up junk that will be easily cleared after a 10 min drive on the interstate. there is also the possibility of bad fuel however this is not confirmable. I would stick with the fact that there was excess build up of junk from lots of short slow trips. ECU's will adjust the fuel table and settings if the O2 Sensor is fowled. -attempting to fix what is not an issue.  Again a quick hop on the interstate will quickly burn off excess carbon buildup on the O2 Sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6393" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:09:23.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2014-07-07T20:17:43.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try doing a wheel balance and alignment. If that doesn't help may have to check a mechanic . Spindles could even be bent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6392" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:17:43.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2014-07-07T22:49:05.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like its shaking at higher RPMs. Check plugs, distributor, and exhaust for leaks. Also check your motor mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be your harmonic balancer. Check to see if its securely in place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T22:49:05.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T01:20:28.903" Score="5" ViewCount="2078" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first 15 to 20 minutes after starting my Elantra it idles very low and every couple minutes, idling our not, it very nearly stalls. Per the tach, the rpm dips significantly for about 2-3 seconds then returns to normal. If I'm idling during that time, like braking or sitting at a red light, it usually stalls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly one time it lit up the check engine light. The codes indicated a misfire on 3 cylinders (I don't know if the 4th was fine or if the reader could only get last 3 codes.) That explains the loss of power, but not the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I know the usual suspects with misfires, but there's a kicker that I can't wrap my head around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It only happens when the fuel tank is more than about 7/8 full.&lt;/strong&gt; I stopped filling the tank, making sure to never add enough to go over 3/4 and the problem is not appearing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how a full or nearly full tank could cause a fuel flow problem? Or any other problem that could give these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I also do seem to have some kind if electrical problem too, but doesn't seem related, and I'll ask about that after I see if the new battery fixes that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6394" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T15:32:58.067" Title="2004 Hyundai Elantra stalling when tank is full" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|fuel-tank|elantra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11720" CreationDate="2014-07-08T04:20:53.877" Score="2" ViewCount="2865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a toyota corolla 2011 s from a local dealer with 80,000 miles on it. In my test drive everything seemed normal and was satisfied with the deal. But on a recent trip when i actually drove this on international highway my car seem to have some problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once i reach 45 mph the car doesn't seem to accelerate the way it should.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No matter how hard you go on the gas pedal the acceleration is dead slow.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't see RPM's going up as well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When using cruise control and pulling the lever for acceleration RPM goes all the way up giving a sudden push to reach the desired speed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem and how much is the damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6395" LastEditorUserId="6395" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T13:32:44.123" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T22:10:11.003" Title="Toyota Corolla 2011 not accelerating when on 60mph or above" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|rpm|corolla|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12176" CreationDate="2014-07-08T05:46:20.730" Score="2" ViewCount="5247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the in-tank fuel pump from my '93 Golf Cabriolet to fix a fuel gauge issue. I noticed a small tear in the mesh filter that goes over the intake nozzle of the pump. I replaced the pump but now the car wont start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can hear the pump whirring, so it seems that there is power getting to it but no fuel getting to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine kicks over and almost catches but wont start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be because I stirred up some crap in the fuel tank which has clogged the fuel lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T13:43:11.933" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T23:34:15.287" Title="Symptoms of a clogged fuel line (pump runs but engine not starting)?" Tags="|fuel-system|golf|fuel-line|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11220" CreationDate="2014-07-08T12:19:04.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/516/2013_Jetta_TDI.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2013 TDI maintenance schedule for US market&lt;/a&gt; (PDF, via tdiclub.com), oil and filter changes occur every 10 000 miles (synthetic only, which allows for higher mileage between changes), same with tyre rotations; fuel filter replaced every 20 000 miles. This would be covered under 30 000 miles US Carefree Maintenance program included with purchase of most new or certified used VWs, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thorough service, however, at 40 000 miles, that includes going over most systems is not covered by that program. Other important maintenance items include replacing transmission oil and filter on DSG (non-auto) gear boxes every 40 000 miles; checking DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) after 120 000 miles, and, if replacement not necessary then, every 20 000 miles thereafter; timing belt replacement at 130 000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T12:19:04.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T14:47:46.447" Score="14" ViewCount="138577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had the brake pads replaced in my car. As I left the shop I noticed coming to a complete stop took longer distance or needed a fair bit more force on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the brakes 'work themselves in'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T18:51:37.457" LastActivityDate="2023-06-24T15:29:52.307" Title="Is it normal for stop distance to be long on brand new brake pads?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2014-07-08T15:26:48.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actually, yes.&lt;/strong&gt; For one reason and one concern (sort of related):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason -&lt;/strong&gt; The pads and rotors need to become &amp;quot;used&amp;quot; to each other or have a break-in period. The pads will brake down slightly until the point where the mating surface has full contact with the rotor. It takes a little while for this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concern -&lt;/strong&gt; The brakes need time to &amp;quot;bed&amp;quot;. This is the period where they go through heating/cooling cycles. It is a period of time where the &amp;quot;glue&amp;quot; (bonding agent) has time to fully cure. If you are not easy on the brakes during this time, the glue will move toward the surface (towards the heat). In doing so, once the thicker portion of glue is worn through, this will cause the brakes to wear out quickly. &lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; After reviewing some information provided by @Larry, it was brought to my attention what I provided is not complete in the sense the main reason for bedding the brakes is to evenly distribute brake material throughout the rotor. Properly bedding the brakes will help prevent what most of us consider warped brake feel, which is very often mis-diagnosed. Please review these three links about bedding in procedures or follow the manufacturers recommendations as you see fit. Just know, it is a very important step. Bed-in procedural sources: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Centric Parts&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85&amp;amp;currentpage=85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zechhausen Racing&lt;/a&gt; (which also has a video about the importance of the bedding in process from Stop Tech). Thanks Larry for providing the links - I thought they should be here in the meat for common consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you need to allow approximately 100 miles (~160km) for both things to occur. Give yourself longer braking distances so you don't have to do emergency braking unless ABSOLUTELY needed. It's still there if you need it, but just try to be gentle. If after the hundred miles they still feel &amp;quot;squishy&amp;quot; or aren't work working up to expectation, I'd take it back to the shop to see if there are any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-06-24T15:29:52.307" LastActivityDate="2023-06-24T15:29:52.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11255" CreationDate="2014-07-08T17:13:31.797" Score="5" ViewCount="14119" Body="&lt;p&gt;The automatic windows on my 2005 Volvo XC90 roll back down after they have closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the computer think that something is stuck in the window, and roll it down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't roll both of the windows at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6398" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T18:40:35.660" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T06:46:53.773" Title="Volvo automatic windows won't stay closed" Tags="|volvo|power-windows|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11254" CreationDate="2014-07-08T18:44:46.723" Score="7" ViewCount="15518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a small 1kg fire extinguisher for my car. However, I'm not sure where should I mount or store it. It should be readily available for emergencies, but at the same time it must not endanger anybody in the case of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T23:53:14.377" Title="Where to store or mount a fire extinguisher?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T20:26:16.077" Score="16" ViewCount="141620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car in February 2013 with 49K miles. It now has 61K miles on it and my brakes are starting to squeak very gently, until I apply more pressure on the brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought the car, I foolishly didn't ask for any service / maintenance records, so I have no idea how old anything is. I'm assuming everything is the original OEM hardware when the car was first purchased. The rotors are pretty rusted around the hats. I know the general consensus is to replace the rotors along with the pads, or at least to have them resurfaced, but what about the calipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never actually had to replace the brake pads on either of my previous cars, so I really don't know much about the experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6402" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T17:18:17.777" Title="At what point do you need to replace the calipers?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11942" CreationDate="2014-07-08T20:46:41.193" Score="4" ViewCount="3364" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;: Chevrolet Blazer 2000 V6 4.3L Engine 4WD 234,000 Miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating, upon reaching about 1500 RPM through about 2250 RPM the engine misfires in first gear (occasionally 2nd gear).&#xA;It tends to do this for about 15 minutes after the vehicle is started (completely to even slightly cold, it stops once it warms up enough) roughly 5-10 start/stops in that 15 minutes. Once a higher gear is reached it complete stops misfiring in the indicated RPM range. There is no check-engine-light or any other lights that come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that when the gas tank is full that it runs a bit better. Could this imply the problem is fuel related? (i.e. Fuel pump, fuel injection, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance Info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I replaced the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air &amp;amp; Oil Filters (including Oil change)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs (all six)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt (had a squeak previously, unrelated but figured I'd mention anyways).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plug wires are relatively new as well as the rotor &amp;amp; rotor cap (year or two old at most).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Previous issues:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem about a year or two ago and it was &quot;fixed&quot; by replacing the wires, rotor, &amp;amp; cap until about a couple weeks ago. The misfiring is back but the wires, rotor, &amp;amp; cap still seem too look new &amp;amp; good and I replaced the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question(s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seeing that replacing the rotor &amp;amp; cap previously fixed my problem, should I do it again?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would imagine that something else has to be causing the problem, should the rotor &amp;amp; cap need replaced this often? If not, what could be causing them to wear down so quickly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What steps should I take to troubleshooting the issue myself? Should I be looking for something specific? I'm good at self-teaching, I'm just not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for so I can teach myself to fix it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plans:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be a week or two before I get enough money to take it to a shop to have them tell me what is wrong with it, I was hoping to exhaust other possibilities until then, possibly figuring out what the issue is and fixing it myself instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, I'm not sure if it could be related (as my knowledge of vehicles is limited) but, the vehicle does currently (and has had for a while) a slow oil leak coming somewhere high up on the vehicle as the oil is usually all over the under-body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: 7/15/2014&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the spark plug wires and the misfires still happen. However the misfires stop (for that particular acceleration) if I give it a bit more gas than usual. Does this change anything in regards to figuring out what the issue is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: 7/27/2014&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check-engine light finally came on. Error code &lt;code&gt;P0300&lt;/code&gt; Random Multiple Misfires. When I get the chance I plan on checking my Vacuum lines for leaks. I'll update again afterword with results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T23:49:17.037" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T01:25:57.547" Title="Engine missfires when accellerating first gear" Tags="|chevrolet|misfire|blazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2014-07-08T21:47:52.047" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise you are hearing is more than likely the squealer on the brake pads. The squealer is a little metal tab which is incorporated into the brake pad. When they wear down &quot;so much&quot;, it starts riding upon the rotor, which causes it to squeal. When you step on the brake, it will stop making noise (until the brake pad is so thin it will start grinding on the rotor and making noise). With ~61k on them, this sounds reasonable, depending on the driving habits of yourself and the previous owner. Your idea to change the rotor and pads is spot on. As cheap as rotors are these days, replacing them only costs a little more than turning (resurfacing) them. You can inspect the pads to see how much meat is left on them. If they look thin, this is definitely the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the calipers ... &lt;strong&gt;if they are still working (not seized) and not leaking, you don't replace them&lt;/strong&gt;. They will usually last for a good long while (a couple hundred thousand miles or more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T21:47:52.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11240" CreationDate="2014-07-08T23:03:50.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a MIL (check engine light)?. To me, it sounds like the car is in failsafe / limp home mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In limp home mode, speed and RPM are both drastically reduced to... you guessed it... limp home in the event of a serious car malfunction. I have seen the SRS (aka airbag) light cause this as well, but in that instance it was after the airbags had deployed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T23:03:50.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2014-07-09T07:06:49.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pads last longer if you drive slow and brake gently or wear out quickly if you drive like Dominic Toretto. So it's dificult to give you a hard and fast rule regarding mileage. If you hear a squeal from your brakes, it means that the friction surface on the pads are too thin. You could probably drive another 1000 to 2000 miles with them in that condition if you're broke or in the middle of the desert (for some reason). But There is a tiny piece of metal on the brake pad which causes the squeal to tell you that you need to change them soon. It's a safety feature like your fuel light. It starts warning you that your running low on fuel, or friction surface, as the case may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T07:06:49.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2014-07-09T07:13:05.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place for it is on the floor, just in front of the passenger seat. It's easy to get to from the driver's seat and in the case of a head-on collision, the only way it can go is away from your girlfriend's/wife's pretty face. But definitely mount it. And buy a proper mount that was designed to allow you to easily remove it in case of an emergency. There's no time for fiddling with Allen keys or a socket wrench when stuff's on fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T07:13:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11247" CreationDate="2014-07-09T07:18:16.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest, easiest thing you can try is to disconnect your battery for 30 minutes (check your owner's manual for the proper way of doing this). When you connect the battery again, your electric windows would have reset their soft limits (so called because the SOFTware learns what &quot;fully open&quot; and &quot;fully closed&quot; &quot;feels&quot; like). You'll notice that your windows won't automatically open or close all the way when you press the button, you'll have to hold it in until they go all the way up or down. You'll need to do this a few times until the software &quot;learns&quot; where the limits are. After that, it should be fine. If not, at least you haven't spent any money yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to go to an auto-electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T07:18:16.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11247" CreationDate="2014-07-09T08:32:41.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles equipped with remote keys have a &quot;hidden&quot; feature in which the windows roll down when the unlock button is pressed for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that the unlock button is stuck and causes your windows to roll down. If this is the case, the windows should not roll down if you use a different, working remote or if the suspect remote is far away from the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T08:32:41.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T11:33:48.257" Score="3" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;The climate control was nuts all the time since I bought the car few years ago. I have the air conditioning liquid filled. The mechanics said, the pipes are all in good shape, but something is wrong, go check elsewhere, like electrics or stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the pipe leading to the interior, it is really cool, on the side where the glove box is. When you press the (*) snowflake on the climate control you can hear and feel the compressor kick in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the thing is, you can only feel a tiny little bit cooler air coming out when you set the temp at higher than 25-26°C. Seems like if the air is not mixing properly or something. If you set it lower temp or &quot;LOW&quot; - get ready for the hellish hot airflow. It's like some sensor or similar kind of thing is messed up and I don't know what. It can even randomly switch from blowing cooler air to hot air and turning off the compressor. I kind of suspect my climate control unit to be the culprit, but I'm no auto or electronics specialist. How can I troubleshoot? what steps can I take? what should I check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I checked and re-soldered the joints shown in this article. These were causing some issues for me too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6408" LastEditorUserId="6408" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T12:37:43.023" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T12:37:43.023" Title="Audi A4 B5 (1995) climate control/heater/blower problem" Tags="|audi|heat|a4|climate-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2014-07-09T11:40:29.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have to mount it where you can reach it easily when there is a need. You can put it under the driver seat or in front of the passenger seat. In case, if you get into an accident, the extinguisher that was under your seat will be easily accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T11:40:29.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4652" CreationDate="2014-07-09T17:09:50.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use packing tape (clear, strong tape from e.g. the post office) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/product/5026-963/nite-ize-gear-tie-reusable-rubber-twist-tie/?q=twist%2Bties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;epic twist ties&lt;/a&gt; to rig up stuff like this.  I hook the twist ties into the heating vents.  The twist ties are especially useful because you can just untwist them if you want to release the cable for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:09:50.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T18:25:06.010" Score="0" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;How effective is laminated security glass in preventing smash-and-grab break-ins?  Are particular brands or types more effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T16:17:38.980" Title="Effectiveness of laminated security glass" Tags="|security|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T19:23:11.183" Score="5" ViewCount="23843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my truck (2006 chevy silverado 5.3l v8) to chevrolet dealership due to the fact that it kept sputtering then dying. The check engine light was on the whole 9 yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel pump has been replaced; the MAFs replaced, new air filter, new knock sensors, the O2 sensors tested good, new spark plugs, oil change, CATs were tested  and came back good. I was out of options, so I took it to Chevrolet and they had it for 2 days saying they've never seen this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They finally called me and said my spark plugs on the driver side fouled out. I asked why, given that they were brand new? They said they didn't know, but it's fixed. Lo and behold, that evening it started sputtering again; it died again next day on the way to work while driving 60 down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monday morning the truck had to be pulled back to the chevy place. They called me next day and said I owe them more money as it had a wire ripped out of the wiring harness. I refused: they should've fixed it the first time and they had it last working on it. If a wire was ripped out, they should have seen that. As I said that, their whole demeanor changed and they claimed that this is now a whole different problem; the first one was due to an O2 sensor that caused my brand new plugs on the driver side only to foul out, but can't have caused the ground wire they found this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe them. I don't believe an O2 sensor being loose the first time caused it; I think it was this ground wire they found this time. They just want me to pay more money because they didn't bother to even look the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you reckon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T18:44:29.810" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T02:05:39.200" Title="Can an O2 sensor cause faulty spark plugs on driver side only when the spark plugs were just changed?" Tags="|electrical|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11273" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:09:28.390" Score="3" ViewCount="4361" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PAS pump on my Discovery failed fairly spectacularly last week, shedding it's pulley at the side of the road. In order to get at it to replace it, I need to get the fan off, which requires undoing a left-hand-thread nut in the viscous coupling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, however, is that I can't stop the pulley rotating in order to undo it (it's on it's own pulley rather than being on the end of the crankshaft). Normally this would be held in place by the serpentine belt, but without the PAS pulley I can't refit the belt...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? I can't get anything in there to wedge the pulley...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's the big bolt in the middle of this part (thanks Paulster2 for the link):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UDPPv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Viscous coupling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is located here on the car:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ORXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big pulley spins freely. I've tried using the small bolts that hold the pulley on for extra purchase - two of the four came undone (great, I thought!), but the other two won't - because of the hexagonal shape of the big nut, I can't get a ring spanner on them, and an open-ended one just started to round them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T08:10:26.493" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T04:39:47.650" Title="Removing a Viscous Fan without the serpentine belt (1998 Land Rover Discovery)" Tags="|belt|fan|pulley|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11266" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:18:52.617" Score="10" ViewCount="108665" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is discussed all over the internet, but it seems to be just a voting procedure. I'd like to get a high-quality answer, and, since I couldn't find it on SE, I'll ask it again here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the manual transmission, when parking on a &lt;em&gt;horizontal&lt;/em&gt; surface, should I leave my car in neutral plus the hand-break or in gear plus the hand-break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strangely, I get the following impression from the forums: In schools, they teach to park in neutral, with the hand-break only. And the experienced drivers then recommend to forget it and park in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to understand the reasoning behind the &quot;in gear&quot; approach, but I do not understand why the schools teach it differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6339" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:49.923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:27:49.923" Title="Parking --- in gear or neutral?" Tags="|manual-transmission|parking|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-07-10T12:23:21.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11264" CreationDate="2014-07-10T01:08:18.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is always park with the transmission in gear and the park brake on. Along with curbing the wheels. Gear selection (forward or reverse) on flat ground, I choose reverse. My reasoning is that a vehicle parked curbside is more likely to be struck from the rear. Even a nudge from a careless driver can push the vehicle if it is only held by the park brake. As most vehicles are now front or all wheel drive this means that the front wheels are being used to prevent the wheels from moving if the transmission is in gear. Since most park brakes are holding the rear wheels you have both the front and rear wheels preventing the vehicle from rolling. If you want overkill the U.S. Postal Service requires that vehicles be in gear or Park, the park brake set, the wheels curbed and a chock block used every time the vehicle is unattended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T10:17:53.287" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T10:17:53.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11268" CreationDate="2014-07-10T01:38:48.930" Score="5" ViewCount="46073" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing spark plugs and one well was full of oil. I took off the valve cover to replace the gasket and noticed that there was quite a bit of oil puddled in the cylinder head. Is this normal or could there be more problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2002 Hyundai Elantra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1182" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T20:40:45.437" Title="Are Oil Puddles in Cylinder Head Normal?" Tags="|engine|oil|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2014-07-10T01:51:13.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are suggesting there was oil inside the head where the valves/cam(s) are located, this would be perfectly normal. If you are saying the oil puddles are outside of the valve/cam area, this isn't normal, but should be taken care of by you putting a new valve cover gasket on the engine. I would say, clean up the entire work area, complete the replacement of the valve cover gasket, then monitor for leakage. I'll bet you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T01:51:13.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11264" CreationDate="2014-07-10T08:51:17.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The schools teach you to park in neutral to prevent you from causing the car to jerk forward the next time you start it and forget to step on the clutch first. So here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't want to have a minor accident while starting your car because you forgot to step on the clutch, leave it in neutral.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want the extra protection of having your front AND rear wheel(s) locked, then leave it in reverse or 1st.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple as that. I prefer leaving my car in neutral on a flat surface and I either curb my wheels or at the very least turn them in such a way to cause as little damage to my car as possible if the parking brake fails. But if I'm parked on an incline (And I only do that on very rare occasions for safety reasons), I leave it in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T08:51:17.790" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2014-07-10T08:58:37.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you can improvise over the approach shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/members/12636-j-irwan-albums-987-diy-misc-pictures-picture7807-bmw-tools-orientation-resized.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this diagram&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh8tc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh8tc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E39 M5 fan clutch removal diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/members/12636-j-irwan-albums-987-diy-misc-pictures-picture7807-bmw-tools-orientation-resized.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;m5board.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a spanner to 'lock' just one of the pulley bolts, try to use a long implement similar to the &quot;special tool&quot; depicted in the diagram to lock two pulley bolts in place. I have found great success with water-heater mounting brackets since they are thin enough and do not flex under load (plus the grooves were already cut in to wrap around the pulley bolt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before attempting to undo the fan clutch nut, I'd advise to let it soak in WD-40/ PB-blaster for a few hours to make for easier removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T04:39:47.650" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T04:39:47.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2014-07-10T10:14:44.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should never be oil on the plug, neither on the &quot;inside part&quot; nor the &quot;outside part&quot;. If oil is on the &quot;inside part&quot; of the plug, then the problem is likely a head gasket, valve stem seals, or worn rings. If oil is on the &quot;outside part&quot; then the problem is likely the valve cover gasket, which you mention that you have replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil under the valve cover, on the head, is normal. It is the drain oil that had be squirted on the valve train. During engine operation, excess oil from this area drains back into the crackcase via drain holes. If you suspect that there is excessive pooling in this area then check that the drain holes are not cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that plugged drain holes, and thus excessive pooling, &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; contribute to excessive oil to make it past the valve stem seals, thus polluting the plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T10:14:44.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2014-07-10T10:25:19.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it the above picture of the fan/pulley on the vehicle is not your vehicle, but a photo of the same thing from another vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is your vehicle, wrap a belt completely around either ribbed pulley part and hold it on one side to gain purchase (grab both sides of the belt in one place with one hand). Believe me when I say this will give you more than enough purchase to get it done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; If you do not have enough purchase by just using your hand, try wrapping the belt around the pulley and grabbing the belt with a pair of Vise-Grips (or other locking pliers), then grab the Vice-Grips and have at it. This should give you enough purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2:&lt;/strong&gt; Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9g4o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arrows denote where the Vice-Grips should be placed. Get the Vice-Grips as close to the pulley as possible. Use enough gripping force to grab the belt so it won't slip, but not enough to damage or destroy the belt itself. You can roll the Vice-Grips back on the pulley for more purchase (will sinch up the belt for more grip on the pulley).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't your vehicle, how much of the original pully is left? If there is any bit of the jagged edge of the pulley, you should be able to get a screwdriver or other longer prying device in between the pulley and the water pump to stop the free motion of the nut you are trying to loosen. Only pry out enough on the pulley to gain purchase: prying out on it harder may damage the main bushing of the water pump underneath, which will cause premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, take the water pump off entirely. This will give you better access to everything. You may even be able to hold the impeller of the water pump still while breaking the fan nut free. Buying a new water pump gasket would definitely be worth the cost compared to the amount of time you've spent trying to get this thing free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T12:35:54.387" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T12:35:54.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2014-07-10T10:34:16.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your disks have started to develop new or deep circular scratches its time you change the pads. Try to feel the disk and you'll know if it really needs a change. Don't compromise on safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T10:34:16.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T11:55:05.323" Score="8" ViewCount="62315" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got my Suzuki Swift Diesel serviced two months back, and all of a sudden the mileage dropped from 20kmpl to 12kmpl and that is confusing!&#xA;After i returned to Service shop, the guy said that there is nothing he could do about it because there is no such thing which can cause a mileage to drop other than the driving habits.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I personally dug and found that a choked air filter can cause car performance and mileage to drop (15% decrease) as for each gallon of fuel the engine burns, it requires upto 10,000 gallons of clean air. Therefore I cleaned it up (at the time of service the air filter was changed) and tried again to check if things get back to normal. &#xA;Unfortunately, it didn't help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, WHAT might be the causing this as the fuel injectors and everything else I know of is working fine?&#xA;How can I resolve this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What other attributes are to be checked to make sure if everything is really Okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Black smoke does actually is spitted out of the silencer usually when I push the accelerator (NOT too hard though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastEditorUserId="4798" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T08:48:15.490" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T06:48:52.950" Title="What could be the reason and solution to a sudden drop in mileage?" Tags="|fuel-system|troubleshooting|performance|suzuki|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2014-07-10T13:36:55.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same thing happened with me ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8855/ford-focus-bad-starter&quot;&gt;Ford Focus - bad starter?&lt;/a&gt; ) when trying to &quot;turn the car over&quot;. The current drawn &quot;killed&quot; the car for about 2 minutes, where nothing electrical worked at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the battery terminals are clamped down correctly. You might need to remove the clamps and reseat them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T13:36:55.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23450" CreationDate="2014-07-10T14:18:40.883" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Buick went crazy 2 days ago, the car won't move if you transit to overdrive from neutral, though the RPM is moving. If I start from 1st transition or 2nd the car works properly. After 3rd I can go to overdrive normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected to the car computer but no errors and nothing wrong with gear oil??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Update--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now after a day i just tried to move the car from one place to another around 2 miles using manual transmission, after i stopped the car stopped going forward at all, and now only the reverse work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Solution--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turned out to be an indication that the transmission is going bad, I bought a used one, the cost was around $700&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastEditorUserId="6417" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T19:41:15.630" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T00:34:43.483" Title="Buick LeSabre 2002 automatic transmission not working" Tags="|transmission|buick|lesabre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T21:24:08.940" Score="0" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you discern between a battery (When the vehicle is started) that can't keep 13-14v and an alternator that isn't charging it properly? (Assuming bad cables/ground/etc is out of the way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't voltage below 13-14v be a symptom of both a bad alternator OR a battery on its way out due to refusing charge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good way to discern between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:03:39.473" Title="alternator vs battery troubleshooting" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2014-07-11T04:51:19.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mileage drop from 20 to 12 kmpl is certainly not your fault. And yes, driving habits really reflect your driving style, but 20 kmpl to 12?? I really don't think so unless you are a rally professional. We can start with the following steps. Needless to say, most of them. You might have already done most of it yourself. Hopefully this fixes your issue. Cleaning the air filter would have been my first suggestion which you already have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tire pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check Wheel alignment at a decent place. (wheel alignment can cause a lot of difference)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try another petrol pump for instance and see if the problem still exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if too much smoke is coming from the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the coolant level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your radiator fan is working. (Just put your car in idle for like 10 or 15 minutes and the fan should start).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the solenoid switch or the turbo assembly is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the inter-cooler is fine. (you might need a professional to check this.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really old cars might have fried clutch pad, which in your case is/ should be absolutely fine because its not old or not so old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after you have done all this the mileage hasn't improved a bit, you can start to doubt the service person's expertise. Make sure you give him a nice shouting. Also try to scare of a few customers who come to the showroom looking to buy a new car by telling them that the service you are gonna get is terrible and might end up with a broken car. Don't underestimate the power of an angry customer. Good Luck.. Hope this helps in some way. And Drive Safe.. :)  Please comment if there's any improvement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T04:51:19.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11247" CreationDate="2014-07-11T07:34:15.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can You open windows with remote key ? Some models have feature, that pressing unlock button for about 5 or 10 seconds vehicle unlocks and all windows goes down. If windows is opened, then press and hold lock button for about 5 or 10 seconds and then windows must close. In that way you can check if its mechanical (switch) problem or electrical (computer) problem. If you does not have that feature, then it is harder to detect problem. Probably must connect to  VIDA/DICE tool and read according electronic device errors. And witch window that is ? Driver doors or another? Does that happens with driver switch or with according door switch too ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T07:34:15.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11263" CreationDate="2014-07-11T10:29:20.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the new pump, you are able to determine the size of its large nut. It is either 34 or 36mm across the flats. Using a flat piece of metal, make a flat spanner with a length long enough to extend out of fan blades to fit the nut. With the 'spanner' on the nut and with a engineers hammer, strike the improvised spanner to undo the nut. The inertia of the assembly allows it to come undone. Viscous couple spanners to do exactly the same are available here in the UK for around £5 ($10 ?). Use a dab of Locktite when fitting the new pump, impacting it in the other direction to tighten it.&#xA;In a workshop with an air chisel, they can be undone by a couple of short bursts aimed at an angle to the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T10:29:20.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2014-07-11T10:48:45.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;'sudden'&lt;/strong&gt; drop in mileage means a component has failed, especially if it was some time after the service. The first thing to do in this sort of event is to do a leak-off test on the injectors. If an injector has failed this will show it. A faulty injector will allow a lot more fuel through, usually accompanied with black smoke from the exhaust.&#xA;Second thing, or at the same time, check the electronics for correct operation and presence. Both these proceedures would be best done in a workshop. A further consideration would be the exhaust. Check for damage, or if fitted with a DPF, does it require a Re-Gen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T10:48:45.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2014-07-11T10:51:40.980" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it may be due bad fuel injectors.  The problem is in the injectors. You should clean the injectors. Hope this will work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T10:51:40.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11279" CreationDate="2014-07-11T11:03:39.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have started the engine and you are getting 13-14.5V, the alternator is working and your problem would be most likely battery. Your local auto-parts store will usually have a heavy discharge battery tester to prove or disprove the servicibility of the battery before laying out money to replace it. In passing you should not assume the cables are OK but they should be checked so that they are known to be OK. A consideration if a battery is not holding a charge is a parasitic drain, this is to say that even when the system is turned off a component or system remains on. An amp meter in series with the battery earth cable will reveal this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:03:39.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2014-07-11T11:14:45.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cylinder head on an engine gets very hot. The seals on the cam cover gasket and spark plug tubes can and do deteriorate and leak onto the cylinder head exterior. One other point to watch for is the hoses for the PCV valve. If they have gone 'soggy' or otherwise blocked they will leak oil onto the head. A blocked PCV hose will also cause oil leaks on the engine where-ever it has seals due to internal crank pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:14:45.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2014-07-11T12:02:00.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loose O2 sensor will give a weak signal to its ECU. The ECU will then richen the mixture on that bank, possibly accounting for the plug soiling. If the vehicle is then road tested before release the subsequent faulty wiring would normally be found. Without being hands on with this particular vehicle it would be impossible to be definite about its faults or if to blame anyone. What I would say though is that if a vehicle has persistant and repetitive faults then one good way to get to bottom of things would be to run the vehicle with a data logger connected. This will give you a second by second view of any fault developing and go a long way to nailing it whilst sitting at your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T12:02:00.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T12:13:23.427" Score="1" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy L station wagon with 143k miles. I do not know when the timing belt was done, or when the spark plugs were replaces last. I only know that the brakes, tires, and one of the catalitic converters were replaced recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am having is after driving for more than 20 minutes while the AC is one, the engine heats up. If I turn the AC off, and drive slightly slower the temp slightly goes down and stays just above the center temp. Also, I have noticed if I am driving below 40-50 MPH the RPM stays below 2000-2500. But when I get on the highway and drive 50+ MPH the RPM is steady on/over 3500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any one recommend what to look into? Also, is the high RPM at higher speeds is a normal thing with this aged car? (all my previous cars didn't behave like that...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T13:09:41.663" Title="High RPM and engine heating on 2001 Subaru Legacy" Tags="|engine|ac|subaru|rpm|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2014-07-11T12:15:54.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laminated glass will not prevent a tooled-up person, intent on entry to a vehicle, from entering it. Laminated auto glass is essentially a safety measure. It does not shatter and splinter throwing bits of glass around on impact. To prevent entry, even by bullets, a special type of laminated 'glass' made from poly-carbonated plastics are used. These are extremely expensive, and are custom made-to-order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T12:15:54.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11257" CreationDate="2014-07-11T12:21:48.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Audi scanner, VCDS from Ross-Tech.com, will show up any electronic faults on your AirCon. Time and time again though, the symptoms you describe can be put down to the AirCon thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T12:21:48.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11299" CreationDate="2014-07-11T12:36:26.890" Score="1" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that a clogged motor can make it seem as the prepump (on the pic below) is dead. I noticed that a very small cleanup (external) revived it for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would like to take the motor apart for complete inside cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just need advice on how to actually separate the motor from the enclosure. There are black silicone / rubber mounts around and I can't manage to remove them. I fear I could tear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : I confirm the motor is sealed (cf pics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't understand how I could actually take the motor out! The tube that goes to it (black) is pressed so tight against the little plastic outlet that it's nearly impossible to take out !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I had a bad surprise, the little filter has kind of oxidized and parts of it are going away in little pieces. I fear they could get into the injectors !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least : I managed to connect the motor itself to a 12V power source. I hear it buzzing !!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't understand why it does not work when it is installed inside the car (the relay is ok, the fuses to !).&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYSiK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2 : after taking the pump system out, I connected a car battery charger to it (directly). It's also 12V so there was not so much risk of damaging it. The good news ? The pump seems to work perfectly ! I even inverted the voltage and made it a bit turn the &quot;wrong&quot; side, for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then I just reassembled all the parts and now the car DOES use the pump, after each time I turn it on. So maybe the pump problem was due to a bad electric contact ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. So now I also know how to unmount the motor &amp;amp; 2 black silicon dampers from the support. Just had to push them gently but steadily aside thanks to a flat screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I must say that now, I near bubble noise when I turn the pump on (just before turning the engine on). That gives an aquatic atmosphere to my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rs4Vk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y03b4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNsPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9Iq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1963" LastEditorUserId="1963" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T15:19:00.673" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:19:00.673" Title="How to extract motor from BMW 318 TDS E36 Fuel prepump to clean it" Tags="|bmw|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11292" CreationDate="2014-07-11T13:09:41.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a manual transmission in the Subarus seem to run high at highway speeds (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/16075-3200-rpm-70mph-print.html?perpage=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, 3200 @ 70mph is normal ... this to me who runs a vehicle which maintains ~1800-2000rpm at 70mph seems high, but nothing like what you are experiencing), running over 3500rpm at 50mph seems quite a bit excessive. This could be the cause of your heating issues. I don't think it has anything to do with the A/C, as it is probably just making the problem more noticable, but not causing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could be experiencing one of two issues as I see it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a manual transmission, your clutch may be majorly slipping ... I don't think this is the issue. If the clutch is working correctly, for any selected gear at a specific engine speed, you can expect a specific vehicle speed. It's mechanical; it's mathmatical. It will be the same between different vehicles of the same model and year. The only way it is going to be different is if your clutch is slipping. In your case the clutch would have to be slipping like a mad beast. This would probably be very obvious to you and soon enough the clutch would not be working at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an automatic transmission, it may not be going into overdrive. This I believe is probably your issue. If the transmission is not going into overdrive as it is supposed to, it will be running at the higher RPM and will be working much harder than normal. When an engine is forced to work hard for a long period of time, it heats up and will generally start to get heat soaked. Once it gets heat soaked, it will not be able to shed heat as easily and thus you'll be seeing a rise in engine temperatures. I notice you also say it is heating up, but not that it is exactly &quot;overheating&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T13:09:41.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11295" CreationDate="2014-07-11T14:35:46.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly how the pump comes out of the holder, but if you are saying the black tube is the only thing which is really holding it in, just cut it. You'll get a new hose with your new pump. The pump I just looked at had it in the parts kit. Comes with two hose clamps which connect both ends for you. You'll also get a new strainer for the bottom, so you don't have to worry about that either. Here is a picture from rockauto of one example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpVEK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Airtex Fuel Pump from RockAuto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T14:35:46.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:15:49.257" Score="4" ViewCount="47605" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '98 Subaru Forester spills all its coolant with very high pressure and overheats. I changed the radiator cap and did a flush, but still have the same problem. I added stop leak, but that did nothing -- maybe added an hour of driving time. I still have no idea what it is, and all the mechanics tell me is the head gasket, but that's a big chunk of change for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can try before I make that big investment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6430" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T20:57:08.903" LastActivityDate="2023-07-16T23:55:32.043" Title="Coolant spills out of the overflow tank at high pressure" Tags="|coolant|subaru|radiator|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11303" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:30:16.593" Score="6" ViewCount="3089" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle has a known crank or wheel horsepower rating, is there a method that can reasonably estimate what the other horsepower value should be? If so, what is that method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if a vehicle has 300 wheel horsepower, is there a way to estimate its crank horsepower? And vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note/Disclaimer: Accurately measuring horsepower on a car is difficult. A car on one dynamometer could produce one value, but on a different dynamometer, could produce a slightly different value. Different dynos can employ different means of measuring the power a car is producing. In addition, the weather and other atmospheric conditions can effect the amount of power a car is capable of delivering. For those interested in performance mods, the key metric to pay attention to is the amount of power gain across the RPM range of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:51:14.700" Title="What is the general rule, if one exists, for determining the difference between crank horsepower and wheel horsepower?" Tags="|power|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11302" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:52:33.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for horsepower ratings between crank HP (CHP) and rear-wheel HP (RWHP) is ~18-20%. An automatic transmission will be closer to 20%, while a manual transmission around 18%. As you stated, and for the same reasons, these are just a general guideline. If you have the CHP number available, multiply that number by .8. (ie: 450hp x 0.8 = 360rwhp). To go the other way, divide the RWHP number by .8 (ie: 360rwhp / 0.8 = 450hp). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please remember this is just a generalization. No one can figure the actual numbers going either way with just math alone. Even between identical cars the numbers may differ. Only through testing on a dyno can you get an accurate number, and then the dyno must be calibrated correctly in order to give an accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:52:33.197" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2014-07-11T16:02:30.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the replies, turned out I needed a new lambda sensor!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T16:02:30.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11327" CreationDate="2014-07-11T18:11:49.113" Score="7" ViewCount="162932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Camry 2011 and two remote keys. One of the keys was soaked with water two years ago. Of course, it is not working. I went to a dealer and they failed to recover it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can try to fix it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3175" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T19:25:17.173" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T19:41:46.510" Title="Fixing a water-damaged remote key" Tags="|toyota|key|electronics|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11307" CreationDate="2014-07-11T22:34:39.147" Score="4" ViewCount="6263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L Engine with California emissions. Installed is a new &lt;strong&gt;federal&lt;/strong&gt; catalytic converter assembly. The problem is that I do not know what kind of oxygen sensor to install into the assembly, because the vehicle is from California. I am looking for a solution that requires me to &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; replace the entire assembly since the assembly is brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there adapters available that convert the oxygen sensor's plug from federal to California?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4222" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T05:42:46.187" Title="How to install a California oxygen sensor into a federal catalytic converter assembly?" Tags="|exhaust|mitsubishi|o2-sensor|emissions|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2014-07-12T04:22:00.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the description of the California O2 sensor for your car, the only thing different on it (besides the internals) is the electrical plug. The wrench which you tighten it down with is 7/8&quot;, which means the sensor bung should be the same size as well. I don't think there is any real external difference between the California and non-California sensor. You should be golden here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car came with California emissions on it (and it's no longer garaged in CA), you'll still want to put a CA O2 sensor on it or it will probably throw a code. The reason is, the vehicle computer will be looking for a certain input from the sensor. If it is getting readings something other than what it expects, you get an exception and a check engine light. The CA O2 sensor should fit right up into the new cat ... the bungs are pretty much standard on all American vehicles (and probably most other vehicles through out the world as well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T04:22:00.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T06:51:30.140" Score="3" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 98 Audi has oil in the coolant but the oil is clean and it does not overheat.&#xA;I replaced the front cam seals and the oil pump drive bearing and water pump, but found no way for the contamination. No loss of compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6431" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:48:01.080" Title="98 Audi has oil in coolant but oil is clean" Tags="|audi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11308" CreationDate="2014-07-12T14:35:40.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still get oil into the coolant through a head gasket leak, even if you don't have any other symptoms. You symptom of oil into the water is very classic of a head gasket leak. Oil pressure is almost always higher than the water pressure. If it's a small leak, oil can be pushed into coolant galleys, but not the opposite. If you have flushed your coolant system and the oil keeps returning, this is where I'd say your problem lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T14:35:40.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T16:42:28.113" Score="-1" ViewCount="20006" Body="&lt;p&gt;92 Plymouth Colt. New plugs; new fuel filter. Car runs great when you crank it and drive for a while, but won't start back until a few hours later. Car turns over fine, just won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6432" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T18:15:05.613" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:29:15.557" Title="Car drives great but, after you shut off it won't crank for a few hours" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8474" CreationDate="2014-07-12T20:59:09.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Chevy van do that same thing and after several pricey mechanics looked at it a &quot;good ole local boy&quot; mechanic found the issue. My main computer was mounted under my drivers seat and was loose. Going around corners, up hills, stopping ect.... Would break connection and cause surging that drove me crazy for months! He bolted it back down and fixed several wires that we're loose from all the movement. Problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6433" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T20:59:09.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2014-07-12T22:37:47.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot-start problems are indicative of loss of pressure in the fuel line. This is usually caused by a leaky fuel injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start. If there is a fuel leak then the fuel may have partially vaporized by the time it reaches the fuel injectors, preventing the injectors from sending fuel through to the combustion chambers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T22:37:47.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11318" CreationDate="2014-07-13T03:51:42.003" Score="1" ViewCount="19247" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question(s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should the Resistance be for spark plug wires on a 2000 Blazer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they're supposed to be 2,000-3,000 Ohms, at what ohms should you look to replace them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the resistance of all/most spark plug wires the same between vehicles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I take the $30 Duralast wires back and get the $70 AC Delco wires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should Straight Booted wires differ in resistance from cornered boot wires? Because as the measurements suggest the straight ones are close to 3,000 ohms but the others are closer to 2,000 ohms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been having misfires in my 2000 Blazer V6 4WD. I've done basic maintenance (Changed filters, oil change, etc.) and changed all 6 spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that you could check your spark plugs using an ohm meter. I've read multiple inconsistent posts on what the Ohms should be some said 4,600 - 7,500, others said 50,000. I personally got around 2,000 to 3,000 for each wire when I measured (Assuming that 2.0 when the meter is set to 20K is 2,000 Ohms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8025ef64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; stating that the wires should be 1,200-1,500 ohms per foot. So 2,400-3,000 with my 2 foot wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Duralast ($30) Spark plug wires&lt;/strong&gt; (Measured in 20K Ohms setting):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornered Boots: 2.38, 2.37, 2.50, 2.13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight Boots: 3.01, 2.16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old Spark plug wires&lt;/strong&gt; (Measured in 20K Ohms setting):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight: 2.95&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornered: 2.55, 2.32&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I only measured 3 because the others are a pain to get to)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for all the questions but I assume since they're all related it is okay to ask them in a single question. Please say so if I should split them into multiple questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T04:04:16.847" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:07:52.413" Title="Spark plug wire resistance" Tags="|chevrolet|wiring|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11316" CreationDate="2014-07-13T09:16:32.787" Score="38" ViewCount="375140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes while driving in the traffic, I come across a car or two which would be dripping water-like drops from its exhaust steadily in 4-5 second intervals. I tried to ask a couple of people at the local workshops; they say, and I quote, &amp;quot;The car is giving an amazing mileage&amp;quot;.&#xA;And I am like, what does that water dripping mean even then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: Why does the water drip? What is the source of it? And what does it signify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-09-22T21:08:43.253" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T21:08:43.253" Title="What does a water-like drip coming out of the exhaust of the car signify?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|performance|emissions|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11315" CreationDate="2014-07-13T09:52:32.117" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;It signifies that the car is running absolutely correct. Here is the reason why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gasoline (petrol) molecule is made up as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;18&lt;/sub&gt; (or 8 Carbon atoms and 18 Hydrogen atoms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Energy is obtained from the combustion of it by the conversion of a hydrocarbon to carbon dioxide and water. The combustion of octane follows this reaction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 C&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;18&lt;/sub&gt; + 25 O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; → 16 CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; + 18 H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or better said, you have two of the hydrocarbon molecules along with 25 oxygen molecules, they swirl together into a mix, the spark plug ignites them, boom, and out the tail pipe comes 16 carbon dioxide molecules and &lt;strong&gt;18 water molecules&lt;/strong&gt; ... at least in a perfect world. Some cars don't put out exactly that ratio. There may be a little bit of carbon monoxide (CO), unburnt hydrocarbons (C&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;18&lt;/sub&gt;), and/or nitrogen oxide (NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;) coming out of the engine exhaust port along with the CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O. In this case, the catalytic convertor's job is to help clean these up so you can get closer to the perfect ratio described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As described, the water coming out of the tail pipe is a natural occurrence of the combustion process. You will usually see it coming out of the tail pipe when the engine and exhaust system of the vehicle is not completely warmed up. When it does become completely warmed up, you won't see it any more, because it comes out as steam (well, you'll see it in the winter time if it's cold enough, but you get the idea). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="51104" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T00:48:22.720" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T00:48:22.720" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11315" CreationDate="2014-07-13T10:24:49.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every gallon of fuel your vehicle burns produces a gallon of water out of the exhaust. If the weather is cold you will see it as steam. If the rear of the exhaust system is still cold even in warm weather it will be for a short time after start-up, you will see the drips. On a hot engine/exhaust you will not see any drips from the tail-pipe. If there are drips, or water, coming out the exhaust on a hot system you are proberbly seeing an engine water leak - most likely head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T10:24:49.310" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2014-07-13T11:07:52.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose  of the resistance in the plug wires is there so that the (1) plug firing voltage is great enough to maintain a sufficent spark firing time and (2) the resistance suppresses interferance with electronic equipment and radios. Spark plug wires are easily broken internally when being removed from the plug, as they can become attached to the spark plug. Try 'blipping' the throttle, pressing the throttle to raise the engine RPM to 1500RPM and releasing. If this is where your misfire is most pronounced then its a safe bet to change the wires. The higher voltage produced on initial acceleration will find any internal breakage and cause the misfire. 1500-2000 ohms per foot of cable is usually present, even on a bad spark plug wire, the misfire happens on the higher voltage. If you have a misfire all of the time, remove one one wire at a time with the engine running, with insulated pliers. When removing a wire which only makes a little or no differance to the engine RPM compared to the others will be the faulty wire. The actual resistance of any cable is down to its length, so differant lengths have differant resistances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:07:52.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2014-07-13T11:29:15.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try turning the ignition key to the run position while listening for the fuel pump running for 2-5 seconds before it goes quiet again. You can also bridge the power fuse for the fuel pump with an amp meter to see if takes a feed, with the fuse removed, when turning the key to the run position. If you cant get a feed or hear the pump running you will need to test out the fuel pump relays, they can work intermittantly when starting to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:29:15.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11308" CreationDate="2014-07-13T11:48:01.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Audis have an engine oil cooler cooled by the engine coolant. Look on the front of the engine just above the sump for two water hoses going to a three inch square finned aluminium box. This is the oil cooler. They can oxidise and corrode after time. They then allow oil to seep out under pressure into the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T11:48:01.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-07-13T12:00:41.723" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the above and your description I would change the coolant thermostat first, and secondly remove and check out the water pump for a displaced/broken impeller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T12:00:41.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T14:16:42.053" Score="0" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not coming from the pump but from under the car near the middle, between driver and passenger seat ? What could this pen&#xA;Problem be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T12:19:26.623" Title="1997 Honda leaked all power steering fliud at once" Tags="|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11315" CreationDate="2014-07-13T14:29:02.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car has not been driving long.  As the others have said, the water comes from the combustion of the fuel.  When the exhaust system is cold, it cools the exhaust enough that the water can condense. After a while of operation, the exhaust system heats up.  The same water vapor is present in the exhaust, but it stays vapor and doesn't drip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6438" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T14:29:02.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11331" CreationDate="2014-07-13T18:45:14.250" Score="4" ViewCount="7507" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1991 Mazda Miata with 180,000 Km. These cars have hydraulic clutches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After engaging and disengaging the clutch repeatedly, the catch point becomes progressively lower until the car starts to creep forward with the clutch pedal fully depressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pump the clutch repeatedly 5 or 6 times, the catch point returns to a more normal position, and the car no longer creeps forward with the pedal all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid reservoir is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the problem is air in the hydraulics lines, but could it be something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3916" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:25:15.783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:25:15.783" Title="Clutch catch point getting lower over time" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T21:04:28.193" Score="1" ViewCount="4529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping we can find a solution to our AC problem.  Normally our AC is just blowing out warm air when AC is on.  Warm air comes out in front and back of van.  The air does not normally work but once in awhile you can actually hear a transition happen and the air will start coming out cold.  The warm air pressure will slow and you can tell the air is switching back on.  We just had the freon tested and we have no leaks.  When we first started noticing a problem with the air it would only work if we were driving fast like on the freeway.  Once we slowed or if we were driving down a road where we had several stops it would switch and start blowing warm air again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this makes sense to someone!&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6441" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T00:19:16.403" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T14:19:35.203" Title="air conditioning working intermittently 2004 Ford Freestar" Tags="|ford|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11324" CreationDate="2014-07-14T00:17:37.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you are able to on the Miata clutches, but you could try bleeding the master/slave. If that doesn't work, it sounds like you are going to have to replace the assembly. It sounds like either the master or slave (or both) is getting worn out. The car is over 20 years old. You cannot expect the little mechanical things to last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T00:17:37.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2014-07-14T01:10:58.503" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can access the electronics soon after they get wet, the chances are pretty good to keep it working.  Unfortunately, after all this time, it's kind of a long shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three major things that happen when you get a circuit board wet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The battery voltage can short across to the wrong parts of the circuit.  This will cause it to fail, but seldom does any lasting damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The metal parts of the circuit will corrode.  This is generally what kills the circuit.  The corrosion can be conductive, and so will cause permanent shorts on the circuit board.  This is especially common between pins of an integrated circuit, because they are so close together.  Severe corrosion can actually eat though the the metal, causing open circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The battery will start draining rapidly.  In addition to killing the battery, the current flow really speeds up the corrosion process.  In an extreme case, a battery will leak or explode.  But I've never heard of that happening with small coin-cell batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, enough of the problems.  Here's what to do when a circuit gets wet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take care of it immediately.  The longer you wait, the more likely that it can't be fixed.  Five minutes is way better than fifteen :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the case.  It's important to get the water off of the board quickly, and it will never evaporate when there's no airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the battery, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the water off of the circuit.  This is more difficult than it sounds, because it won't come out from underneath the chips on the circuit board.  One good way is to dump rubbing alcohol (99%, not 70%) over the board.  It will wash the water away, and then evaporate very quickly.  Also, this will remove any salts or contaminants that were in the water.  Don't use rubbing alcohol if you weren't able to remove the battery!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let it dry.  If you were able to use 99% rubbing alcohol, this should take less than an hour.  If not, give a full day of two to completely dry out.  Putting it on a sunny windowsill would help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put it all back together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this with a half-dozen usb keys, a rental car key (that I swam with in Hawaii!), and the guts of a remote-controller helicopter.  They all recovered :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific case, I'd try to scrub the corrosion off of the board and the battery contacts.  For the circuit board, use an old toothbrush with 99% rubbing alcohol.  For the battery contacts, you can be more forceful :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T05:24:40.637" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T05:24:40.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T07:46:44.823" Score="2" ViewCount="7365" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Honda accord is starting to sputter and stall. It started all of a sudden one day and figured it might be my oil so I had it changed since it was time anyway. That seemed to work fine there for a while but when I kick on my AC it will jolt and sputter in low RPM but higher RPM it seems fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just today it is now really bad. Even with the AC off it has started to really sputter and stall. It will idle fine for a short period then stall out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating at a high RPM it will get moving but then start to sputter and sometimes the engine will pop but going into 2nd and higher gears it seems to do just fine with just a small bit of hesitation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this be? I did put a cold air intake in it and had to make a hole in the hose for the sensor - I'm going to put original back on ASAP. Could that have caused the problem? Could it be a clogged filter or too much dirt in the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6444" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T09:58:10.383" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T13:37:38.603" Title="Car sputtering and stalling when idle and going into first gear" Tags="|engine|honda|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11328" CreationDate="2014-07-14T10:00:16.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the AirCon on, the AirCon compressor activates. This is seen as a load on the engine by the system electronics. The system reacts to the load by increasing the RPM of the engine, whilst at idle, by its Idle Control Valve. The way to go is a scan of the system to make sure it is working properly electronically, and a check of the compressor. The compressor may be seizing and causing an excessive load on the engine. What, when, and why you have incorporated an extra sensor into the system is unclear, but if your fault symptoms developed after its fitment then it very well may be your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:00:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11325" CreationDate="2014-07-14T10:30:19.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have a scan on your AirCon system to check it out for any control faults and operation. A check on the blend door must be done as they do fail and continue to let in warm/hot air during AirCon operation. A system recharge may/will be necessary to ensure that it is fully charged. During the recharge pressures should be noted, and ensure that the drier and the orifice tube are servicible. The orifice tube can be blocked or resricted and could very well be the problem in line with your fault description, but a full system check would be a necessary before spending on parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:30:19.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11324" CreationDate="2014-07-14T10:49:02.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is symptomatic of worn clutch master or slave cylinder. With the engine off, press the clutch pedal to the floor as slowly and as lightly as you can. If when you release the clutch pedal it is now without any pressure, this proves that the seals are worn out and allowing the clutch fluid to pass by the seals. At this vehicle age it would be advisable to change both cylinders together, assuming no recent work has been done that would involve disconnecting the hydraulics, such as a clutch assembly replacement, to allow air into the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:49:02.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T11:19:29.103" Score="8" ViewCount="12818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice cold engine of my KTM Duke 200 heats up and shoots the highest temperature and the gauge reaches the extreme within like 15-30 minutes of driving it in traffic.&#xA;And the engine stops and doesn't start (obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I don't do which might cause this-  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Useless revs.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shooting ahead of the traffic showing off the acceleration.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not keeping the coolant filled. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not getting the motorcycle serviced on time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not able to figure out the reason for this. At times it does cover 300km and above almost non-stop. Whereas on other days it doesn't even withstand 10km of driving in traffic. Usually, if there's a traffic jam and I have to stand still for 10 minutes, I see the temperature of the engine jumping quite a lot of degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason and how do I fix this?&#xA;Could the 'higher power and comparatively lesser displacement' ratio be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T18:26:39.837" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T11:01:51.997" Title="Motorcycle heats up within minutes of driving in the traffic" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|overheating|ktm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2014-07-14T11:22:00.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Assuming that you lost the power assistence on your steering) Your system has a reservoir, pump, rack, and joining hoses. All of these can leak out fluid. Raise the vehicle and place it on stands. Have a drain tray under the vehicle to hand to catch any lost fluid. Top up the reservoir and have the assistant turn the steering lock to lock. Mindful of any rotating components, follow the complete system to determine the leak. Pay careful attention to any hoses attached to vehicle bodywork by clips. The leak may be under the clip. Replace any offending part(s). Refill the system and recheck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T11:22:00.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8988" CreationDate="2014-07-14T13:36:00.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I know you could reach the negative value at PID62 even if you break with the gear box. It's not the best way to find out such a stuff. The reverse gear sensor is straight forward, and just open and close the circuit. Only the cars with this &quot;efficient gear shift assistance stuff&quot;, that show you when to shift support this gear information ( Polo 6R and so one). But it's very special parameter and there is no official PID for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T13:36:00.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T13:55:49.123" Score="5" ViewCount="2082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Fiat Punto 188 1.3 JTD Multijet and an issue, that brings me a headache since 2 years. The car is from 2005 and already has 180 000 miles down. Almost every time, the I fast accelerate from lower rotation in range from 800 - 2800 RPM, my car get a strong shock. Motor-Check lights up and since then you can not get higher rotation then 3000 RPM until you start the car new. &#xA;After this I get two Error Messages: 1. Fuel pressure to low. 2. Fuel pressure to high. I already changes all the fuel pressure sensors and checked the high pressure pump at the car workshop. They have no idea what else could be wrong. Maybe you can help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T19:41:31.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:41:31.653" Title="Diesel fuel pressure issue Fiat Punto 1.3 JTD" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|pressure|fiat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-08-11T22:25:33.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6898" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:30:29.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure this is a wire problem. Open the door and check the cable between door and middle pillar. If everything is fine, check the door lock engine. For example replace it between the right and the left door. If the engine is also fine, I would just bridge the wires with some other door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T14:30:29.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11357" CreationDate="2014-07-14T18:04:43.210" Score="1" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying a Renault Megane 2005 1.4 petrol. The car looks in very good condition but it has a subtle squeak if I release the clutch pedal too suddenly ... this is either on gearing up or gearing down ( engine braking ). I gave the clutch itself a good run through the common tests like bite point, stalling the engine in 3rd, etc and it did seem to be fine to me, so I don't think it is that but I could be wrong. It sounded like it could be a squeaky engine mount to me. Has anyone got any options or experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T21:08:20.470" Title="Squeak on agressive clutching - Renault Megane" Tags="|engine|clutch|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2014-07-14T20:59:16.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at a blow apart diagram on your bike, it appears you have two radiators, one on each side of the faring, for your bike. One or both of your radiators may be blocked or partially blocked. Take the faring off and check to see if there is any ash/trash stuck in the fins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sitting in slow traffic will not allow a good amount of air to come over those fins, which would cause the temp to rise. You would think this would be thought of when the engineers designed the things, but you know the deal. I don't believe your bike has any fans to draw extra air, so this helps exacerbate your situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing I'd check is to see if there is an internal obstruction in the hoses going to/from the radiators. Not knowing what year your bike is (to see how old it is), you may need to flush/change the radiator fluid. If you were to change your coolant, put a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/water-wetter-redline-83522-80204&quot;&gt;Water Wetter&lt;/a&gt; into the coolant which will make it work better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth thing which may be causing it is if the thremostat is bad. I see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bleedktmorange.com/OEMpartfinder.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQjw_42eBRDHqcG1psmtneEBEiQAWPL8WIR3kHbx1zxuMMHj_QT68Srx4_HsmJcnCY_f3tNUydkaAjie8P8HAQ#/KTM/200_XC-W_Engine_-_2010/Cooling_System/21%7c%7e16%7c%7e0005/21%7c%7e16%7c%7e0027&quot;&gt;thermostat&lt;/a&gt; for you bike runs at 55C (131F). If you are running at or near the redline, this could be a real cause. It could be stuck in a partial open position or not opening fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T20:59:16.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11347" CreationDate="2014-07-14T21:04:38.350" Score="5" ViewCount="10340" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a week ago, I had new tires put on my car. The next day, I took a long trip from Birmingham, Alabama to New Orleans, Louisiana. I made it to the Mississippi state line around the time my TPMS indicated that I had low tire pressure. After stopping and checking the tires, I pinpointed the tire that leaked but couldn't find a nail or anything in it. So I filled it back up to around 34 PSI and hit the road again. About 20 miles later, the pressure had dropped to about 25 again and did so every 20-30 miles after that. It was pretty late and all of the mechanic shops were closed, so I went ahead and used fix-a-flat and that took me to New Orleans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon arriving, I went ahead and had the tire replaced (the mechanic wouldn't repair a tire with fix-a-flat) but on my return journey home, about 50 or so miles outside of New Orleans, the TPMS went off again and did so intermittently until I got to Hattiesburg, MS. There I stopped at a mechanic and they tightened my valve stem. I went about 20-30 more miles when the TPMS went off again and said screw it, filling up the tire every 20-30 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strange thing is, I stopped at an auto parts place and tightened the valve stem more myself, then I rode at about 60mph and didn't have any more problems until I started driving about 70 again after about 70 miles. I took the car back to the mechanic that first changed my tire before I left Birmingham, he dunked the wheel in water and couldn't find a leak and made the asinine suggestion that a kid was probably pranking me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is: I know the leak is there. I know it leaks faster when I driving at higher speeds, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what the problem might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6448" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T12:26:34.853" Title="Slow leak that multiple mechanics could not find" Tags="|tires|leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2870" CreationDate="2014-07-14T22:02:55.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove one injector wire at a time until you find the one that doesn't change the way it runs. Do it running&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6449" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T22:02:55.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-15T04:19:26.657" Score="4" ViewCount="37060" Body="&lt;p&gt;After seeing my CEL come on in my '05 Mazda 3 (just passed 100K mi.), I used my code reader to find out that the code was P0442. So I naturally came to this website to see what I could find on the subject matter. The only &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5117/evap-system-or-faulty-cel&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; on this site (at the time of posting) about this is questioning the validity of the CEL. I personally am going to believe the CEL/code is correct, because of the data that I have on my MPG (yes, I'm nerdy enough to have kept track of my MPG from the day I started driving this car). As you can see, my MPG has been plummeting for the last few months, and given how my current tank is progressing, I doubt it is going to go back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApSdV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gas Mileage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also googled around and got pretty inconsistent answers being given from gas cap replacement (my current one looks fine to me), to the neck that the gas nozzle goes into (also looks fine to me), to plenty of other theories. Anyone have any idea as to whether this is something that is as simple as a new gas cap, or something that I can do on my own or if this needs to go into the shop ASAP? Is there anything else I need to check to make a better determination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T22:06:38.910" Title="P0442: Faulty EVAP System" Tags="|fuel-system|mazda|cel|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11345" CreationDate="2014-07-15T07:01:35.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There a several things, that I would check at first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gas cap or the seal on it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The connection between gas tank and gas cap. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seal between gas tank and the fuel pump under the rear seat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can not believe, there could be the leak somewhere else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T07:01:35.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2014-07-15T07:15:35.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is not the tire. It is the tire valve. Did you changed them too? If you drive much faster, the tire valve deform because of centrifugal force and open this little leak. The valve could be just damaged by mounting the tire.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="6445" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T07:21:36.170" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T07:21:36.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2014-07-15T09:13:26.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the problem is not with the tyre, but the wheel - are they alloy wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What often happens is that the edge of the rim corrodes slightly, which stops the tyre from sealing properly against it, allowing air to seep through between them. It's also not unheard of for alloy wheels to become slightly porous, allowing air to actually seep through the wheel itself...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they fitted the tyres, did they use a sealing compound? and did they clean up the edge of the rim? Try that, and see if it helps it seal better. You should always fit a new valve when changing a tyre, so get that changed if they didn't...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T09:13:26.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11345" CreationDate="2014-07-15T10:08:19.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OBD2 code P0442 means that on your system you have a small air/vacuum leak. Apart from the seal on the gas gap, you must check the purge valve and the fuel tank pressure sensor are both working correctly. EVAP faults can be be notoriously difficult faults to pinpoint as the system only checks itself when the vehicle is actually operating and the pressures and vacuums are very small. A Ford/Mazda scanner check on the electronics and a smoke test on the EVAP system should isolate your problem. My attention would be very much on the purge valve. &lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; it is leaking by not closing fully to seal the system, the engine would run on the lean side. The engine ECU would then richen the mixture and your fuel consumption would increase. Tests first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:08:19.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2014-07-15T10:41:52.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you describe with new tyres on alloy wheels can happen if the lacquer (shiny finish) on the wheel has become oxidised over time. When fitting the tyre, the bead seating on the rim should be pristine. If there is any oxidisation, bubbling or bumps, on the wheels bead seating it must be removed. With a rotary wire brush the bead seating should be cleaned off. The clean bead seat must then be painted with bead sealant and allowed to dry. This restores the airtight seal. The TPMS sensors very rarely give a problem, but they do have seals that can be replaced without the expense of a new sensor. Finally, the TPMS sensor valve cores are a differant core to a standard valve core, they are removed to deflate the tyre. Make sure the correct core has been replaced in the sensor, they look very similar to a standard core unless you know they are differant. Modern vehicles tend to have larger wider wheels and require a tyre fitting machine that is suitable for fitting larger wider tyres to avoid damage to the tyre when fitting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:41:52.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11337" CreationDate="2014-07-15T11:08:34.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Megane can have a four speed or a five speed box. This means the clutch can be cable operated or hydraulic operated. On a cable clutch you can have squeaks from the clutch pedal bushing, the cable attachment at the pedal, and also from the cable itself. The cable wears internally on bends in the cable. The inner cable cuts through its neoprene inner tubing and rubs on the outer cable. The hydraulic system has inside the car the same type of bushing and attachment and can squeak. In addition, the push rod on the slave cylinder on the gearbox is metal and pushes against the release lever, which is also metal. These too can squeak when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T11:08:34.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2014-07-15T11:42:32.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;open roof till bonnet sits back,then go no further,at rear on top, small plastic panel pull it off,you will see nylon  thumb screw nut,undo pull light fitting out,reverse process to put back together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T11:42:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2014-07-15T12:53:36.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what exactly you want to do with that, but there are some ways. First thing you need is a micro controller. To get it simple I would start with &lt;a href=&quot;http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/pican-canbus-board-for-raspberry-pi-p-1196.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PICAN on Raspberry PI&lt;/a&gt;. Here you could connect some some analog and digital sensors. The next step is programming. You have to give PICAN some CAN-ID. Node_ID, Index and Subindex for each sensor. Then some code to handle the data. Also important to find a way to handle a PID for some standard diagnose tools and readers. Now if you connect the PICAN to your can-bus-system you will get an error of some unrecognized device. You need to enter your PICAN into you ECM or can bus controller. This is a very time or cost expensive stuff. Only plug and play is not possible.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T12:53:36.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2014-07-15T13:45:05.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;YES, there are some ways to read and show data on Matlab Simulink using vehicle network box. All the information you will find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathworks.de/discovery/can-network.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Just filter at the right ID and select the data bytes you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T13:45:05.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2014-07-15T19:49:04.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever opened up an engine that is using oil, in other words, oil blow-by past the rings. The piston with the oil consumption is clean where as those burning correctly have a layer of carbon on top of the piston. Now that is ordinary engine oil that has removed the carbon. Therefore I fail to see how a very diluted mixture of two stroke oil will damage the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for those people that say yea but the fuel companies would have added it to the petrol.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on at the demo on you- tube at omega or lubrication engineer products.  and see how they exceed your standard lubricants sold by the petrol industries. If the petrol industries were so keen to give you the best product then they would match the above lubricants. Guess what, Ive seen the demos done personally and have  used both products above in vehicles and industry. The above mentioned lubricants reduced machine failures tremendously in the industry that I worked for. Infact on one product in particular  eliminated regular hydraulic pump failure completely. These pumps used to fail once a month on hydraulic oils supplied by the petrol industry. And we tested all brands. And no, I am not advertising, thats why I did not mention which one of the two products it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6457" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:49:04.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11337" CreationDate="2014-07-15T21:08:20.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately from your description, it sounds like more of an annoyance than a real problem. It could be any one of numerous mounts/bushing on the car which are causing this. Finding it would be a real pain. If you like the car and can put up with the squeak, I'd bet it's nothing to worry about. It's not the throw out bearing or the clutch, because the noise would be louder and happen at different times. This leaves the suspension and motor mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T21:08:20.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2014-07-16T03:51:03.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm really not sure there is a single answer to this question. Some manufactures will claim they engineer a two piece drive shaft to eliminate vibrations and harmonics, but in reality, a one piece would have worked just fine. Personally, I believe that many manufacturers just use whichever shaft it can get the best deal on from their suppliers at that given time. Most european manufacturers use elaberate two piece drive shafts behind transmissions that have a rubber disk to absorb shock and no slip joint. These shafts are often not serviceable in the field at all. When center bearing or u joints wear out, the drive shaft must be completely remanufactured. While these methods may or may not provide a quiet and smooth ride, I personally believe they use them to increase the cost and complexity of the replacement part, therefore insuring future service business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would venture to say that just about any vehicle used for none offroad applications and with a slip joint front (transmission) yoke can be sucessfully converted to one piece, as long as the basic principles of laying out the shafts are followed and corners are not cut. There are plenty of websites that have all the information required to do it and its critical that every step is followed carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regarding cars and pickup trucks, I really don't believe that there is a magic number that becomes too long for a one piece drive shaft. As long as the shaft yokes have all been phased in properly, the shaft balanced correctly, and the proper shaft diameter and metal thinkness has been used to meet the application's critical speed formula, even a 70 plus inch shaft should perform well at or below highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for most mass produced cars and light trucks, the parts required to replace high wear/mileage two piece drive shafts and the labor costs to install them are likely much less than the cost of a custom made or high performance one piece shalf, so the benefits of the one piece shaft may not justify the cost, especially for non high performance needs. Of course, this call it up to the individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that if some shop it attempting to talk you out of the shaft you want, these are not the people you want doing the work on your shaft for you. Run, don't walk away from them. Do your homework on driveshafts so that you can make an informed choice as well as understand which shops are making sense when they are presenting you with options..or lack of opinions...and which can't or won't do the work you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="6459" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T03:57:53.177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T03:57:53.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T06:27:39.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Indian Scooter (&lt;strong&gt;Bajaj Chetak&lt;/strong&gt;) which was bought 15 years ago.   For the last few days, the scooter has been witnessing lot of problems.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. The clutch plate gets damaged and burn't&lt;/strong&gt; - It has been more than 10 times the clutch plate has been replaced but to my vain I haven't found one mechanic who could solve this problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some mechanics suggested for replacing the complete clutch kit, but nothing worked.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;2. The gear changes automatically without manual effort&lt;/strong&gt; - Suppose you are driving the scooter in 20 kmph and you accelerate to 40 kmph. Without manual effort gear changes automatically. What could be the reason.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As this scooter is not in production now, finding spare parts has become a needle in haystack.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;3. Scooter kicker pedal frees&lt;/strong&gt; - When the clutch plate gets damaged, the kick starter pedal frees with no action. When you try to kick start, it simply frees down. (This scooter does not have auto start feature)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is causing this problem?&#xA;How can I solve this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6460" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T10:43:25.337" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T03:45:38.400" Title="Scooter clutch plate gets damaged/burn't for a short time" Tags="|clutch|gears|scooter|clutch-cylinder|bajaj|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2014-07-16T11:13:55.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After changing Diesel oil in an engine it will always look blackish and never a golden colour after only a very! short period of time. This is because the old oil residue left when the oil is changed will always retain a certain amount of contamination and cause the discolouration. You will never remove all of the old oil even if the oil is hot when removed. It is designed to naturally adhere to internal component this his how it protect your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol oil will always be cleaner due to the difference in the way the engine function any build up of contaminants is reduced considerably.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6461" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T11:13:55.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11325" CreationDate="2014-07-16T15:49:53.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have an exterior temperature sensor that gives a reading inside the car?  I have a SAAB 93 that had a faulty exterior temperature sensor that the HVAC computer system used to properly run.  During the warm summer months the sensor was telling my car that is was below freezing outside and it wouldn't let the AC system come, but every now and then the sensor would show a correct reading and it would work fine.  You should check this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6462" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T15:49:53.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T21:29:38.917" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could someone let me know if a clutch and flywheel is changed on a Vauxhall Astra diesel do they change the gearbox oil as part of the job. Many thank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6469" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:03:15.990" Title="Vauxhall Astra diesel replacement clutch" Tags="|oil|clutch|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26324" CreationDate="2014-07-16T21:31:36.750" Score="8" ViewCount="2600" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Dilemma&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 Suzuki GS550L. Not only did one of the previous owners completely remove the baffles from the exhaust pipes, but they welded fender washers on the end of the pipes, so the OEM baffles are no longer compatible (not that you can even find just the baffles for this bike anyway). I'd like to quiet the bike back down to a reasonable level, since I live in an area where vehicle noise laws are enforced. Oh, and I'm a considerate neighbor. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Possible Solutions (so far)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pack with fiberglass muffler insulator&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not sure how to do this or what the product is named&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jury-rig a baffle using custom baffle tubing and some not-so-expert welding skills&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This sounds like an okay idea; I'd just need to visit the hardware store for an hour or two (every trip…)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GS550-77-80-MAC-4-1-Chrome-Megaphone-Exhaust-System-003-0201-/171231430167?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item27de304617&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Buy new pipes&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is the easiest option, but also the most expensive I think&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a used exhaust system from a wrecking yard (also available online) &lt;em&gt;[thanks, Peter]&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This could be hit-or-miss, since a used exhaust may have corroded baffles or a leak, or really any number of problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6467" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:30:48.653" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T05:03:14.537" Title="How to inexpensively replace missing baffles on a classic bike" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|suzuki|muffler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T22:12:46.983" Score="3" ViewCount="23643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 ford ecsort Zx2 it has the 2.0L DOHC engine in it or known as the Ztec engine. When I am driving with the A/C on it sputers and dies but restarts. What would cause this? it runs just fine and doesnt die if it is off. Driving down the road it runs with no isses with the A/C on. It only try to die at low rpm at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6468" LastEditorUserId="6468" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T21:38:20.137" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T18:53:52.803" Title="A/C causes the the car to die" Tags="|engine|ford|ac|escort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2014-07-16T23:10:31.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welsh Plugs are in engine blocks to protect against freezing (expanding) coolant.&#xA;If you only have water and not anti-freeze in coolant system this can happen, warmer than 0 Deg C climates excepted.&#xA;If they suddenly leak after years of motoring you should probably be thankful and get them replaced. If they leak a week after being replaced I would take back to garage and get them installed properly free-of-charge (FOC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6470" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T10:36:17.947" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T10:36:17.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2014-07-17T06:58:04.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe is something wrong with your a/c pump or in the circle, so it's stiff. But at that way you should hear a pretty hard beat or squeak if A/C turns on, because the magnetic clutch of A/C is overloaded. The second reason could the short circuit, so I would check some cable. I think this is more an electrically problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T06:58:04.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T08:21:03.560" Score="2" ViewCount="103824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read all about the dreaded timing chain failure on 320d/520d BMWs with N47 engines manufactured between 2007 and 2011. I wanted to know if models after March 2011 (when they supposedly changed the engine) have fixed this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on this model, is the timing chain still at the back of the engine or the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6471" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T15:48:33.800" Title="Are 320d/520d N47 engines made after March 2011 still susceptible to timing chain failure?" Tags="|bmw|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11365" CreationDate="2014-07-17T10:36:26.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Vauxhall Astra gearbox oil does not have a quoted service life. If the oil is drained in to a clean container, and the oil itself has'nt been contaminated then it will be OK to re-use. There are several transmissions on the Astra Range and several have to have their own particular spec of gearbox oil. Vauxhall also recommend changing the trans drain and filler plugs (?) on some variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T10:36:26.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2014-07-17T10:54:44.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your AirCon compressor comes in two halves. There is the pulley/clutch half, and the pumping element half. With the AirCon off the pulley and clutch arrangement are simply rotated by the serpentine belt, and the pumping element remains stationary. When you turn the AirCon on, the clutch is engaged and both elements turn together to pressurise the system. The system is further turned on and off by a pressure sensor on max pressure, and the throttle pedal position on full acceleration. Your problem lies with a partially seizing compressor, or a shorting electrical clutch. Both instances would cause an excessive engine load causing the symptoms you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T10:54:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11370" CreationDate="2014-07-17T11:07:30.490" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very big job. The chains are at the rear of the engine, and requires engine, head, and sump removal to replace the chains. They engine is also set up with  a set of special tools and timing plates. BMW say that any previous weaknesses are now resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T11:07:30.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11380" CreationDate="2014-07-17T12:35:59.693" Score="8" ViewCount="7243" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3oDg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've frequently seen this strange little plastic gizmo (circled in the image) and wondered what its purpose is. I'm tired of wondering -- do any of you know? What is it even called? (Don't ask how long it took to find that image...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all cars have them, but I've seen them on 80's cars and new ones, cheap micro cars and &quot;respectable&quot; sedans, but never on really nice cars. It's certainly not a window guide, and I doubt it's aerodynamic. In this picture it seems to extend backwards behind the rubber trim, but I've mostly seen them extend outwards a bit. The whole thing is no bigger than a sugar cube, and is affixed to the frame of the door (doesn't attach to the window, or even touch it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://carmodelsworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/2005-Toyota-Aygo-3-door-black-car-front-side.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T14:00:13.133" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T10:04:07.407" Title="What is the small plastic dimple found on some front doors?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T12:36:59.667" Score="3" ViewCount="26697" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Chevy Malibu (2009 2.4) is acting a tad whacky! It either acts totally normal, or all below occurs at the same time. . . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) coolant fan(s) come on when I start car&#xA;2) temp gauge stays on C (dead)&#xA;3) AC does not kick in (blows air with no AC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens at random as best I can tell. But when it happens, it might continue for a day, or half a day and then back to normal. The temp gauge is either dead cold or normal . . . never hot. When it works, the AC blows perfectly cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;COuld loose gas cap be an issue? (Seems like mine doesn't really tighten, it clicks and stays slightly wiggly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could battery terminal corrosion be the culprit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dino&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:47:23.417" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T21:21:54.103" Title="2009 Chevy Malibu 2.4 off and on temp Gauge on C, No AC and fan comes on right away" Tags="|ac|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11789" CreationDate="2014-07-17T13:11:07.803" Score="9" ViewCount="11722" Body="&lt;p&gt;So yet another chapter unfolds in the A/C gremlin saga of my LS1 Chevy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Backdrop&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A/C compressor is relatively new (2 years old)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the belts is squeaking (not sure which one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recently performed a thermostat swap (the only reason why I mention this is because the thermostat housing is mounted directly above the compressor and a bit of coolant did spill on the compressor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Symptoms&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alternator outputs ~14.5 V with the A/C off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the A/C on, the alternator outputs 10-12 V, the battery symbol lights up, and a 'Check Alternator' warning shows up on my display. After some time the steering goes hard as well, indicating loss of power steering. Cooling is abysmal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Thoughts&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms appear to suggest that the compressor is inducing a parasitic draw on the engine (seized bearing, perhaps?), which surprises me since this is a two-belt setup (one for the A/C, one main).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Questions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it reasonable to expect that a seized compressor bearing would cause loss of tension in the main belt to the extent that alternator and power steering pump functionality is compromised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could there be some non-mechanical issue that explains this behavior (such as electrics)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T08:56:12.653" Title="Why would turning on the A/C affect my alternator output voltage?" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11370" CreationDate="2014-07-17T14:11:45.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, as said, &lt;strong&gt;the timing chain is still located at the back of the engine&lt;/strong&gt;. The N47D20 is still being used today. I have not read anything about them changing out the engine, though there was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greencarcongress.com/2012/09/bmweffdynengines-20120914.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; from 2012 about BMW doubling down on their use of the chain at the rear of the engine, supposedly to go into production cars this year (2014), but I've not read where they've actually started using the engines. These newer engines are supposed to share many of the same components, have the same amount of displacement per cylinder (whether gas or diesel), and use the same mounting points in the engine bay. Even the HP ratings would be about equal per cylinder (though different between gas/diesel for obvious reasons). Until they do start utilizing the new engine, BMW continues to use the N47 as a mainstay in their fleet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since BMW will not own up to the timing chain problem (publicly), the best we can do is to see what the BMW owners community has said about it. According to the community, the problem lies with the crank shaft sprocket. This is an excerpt from this forum: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BMW recognized it as a fault and fixed the sprocket issue in roughly March 2008 (some older engines were still installed at a later date) but later model have since failed, the mechanics on the site have seen mainly jumped chains on manual cars that have been been ragged, auto's don't do the same harsh gear changes and so are less prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, others claim the manual tranny v. automatic theory does not hold true. Failure rate does seem to have decreased dramatically since BMW made the changes, but that does not mean you won't have mechanical chain failure on the N47. Bottom line, if you start hearing the timing chain start rattling, you should get it looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T14:11:45.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11376" CreationDate="2014-07-17T14:23:40.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it &lt;strong&gt;could be faulty wiring to the engine temperature sensor or faulty sensor itself&lt;/strong&gt; (less likely). In some vehicles (quite a few GM vehicles I know for sure), if you were to pull wire(s) which goes to the engine temperature sensor which relays the engine heat information to the computer, the computer will force the fans on high. This ensures the engine is protected against over heating because the computer doesn't know what the actual temperature of the engine is. This would hold true if the sensor was not transmitting back to the computer for any reason. Also, this would be an indication why the dash gauge would not show any movement while the engine is warm/warming up. I'm not sure about the A/C, but surely this is all related. It would also seem logical in that the computer &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; keep the A/C from running (engaging the compressor - especially considering the computer controls this signal as well) to help protect the engine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; While I don't know for sure, the sensor should be located in the engine around the point of where the top radiator hose goes into the engine. It will have a two wire lead (clipped) connector going into it. The base of it (where it screws into the engine) should be brass in color. Should not be hard to spot, but look at the wiring which is associated for any fraying or cuts. Also, pull the connector to ensure no dirt build-up, moisture, corrosion, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T17:00:22.813" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T17:00:22.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11375" CreationDate="2014-07-17T15:42:01.023" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a guide for the window as it closes. It is only needed for closing the window when traveling at higher speeds as the airflow sucks the window outward. Why you see it on cheaper cars probably has to do with the thickness of the glass and the build of the window frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T15:42:01.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11384" CreationDate="2014-07-17T16:14:29.033" Score="18" ViewCount="20663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had the A/C in my car die on me again; air coming through the vents with the A/C is just as warm with it turned on as off.  However, my fridge/freezer is something I've had for over 5 years and it just keeps trooping on, cooling the food fine.  I've known freezers to last fine for 20+ years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that both the car A/C and fridges/freezers operate on the same principle of refrigeration, and yet cars seem to need &quot;re-gassing&quot; every few years or the A/C will stop working.  Why is this?  Why can't they make car A/C as reliable as your fridge or freezer's refrigeration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6475" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T20:26:05.983" Title="Why is car A/C typically less reliable than fridges/freezers?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3681" CreationDate="2014-07-17T16:57:51.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;get a hot air soldering iron remove the transponder chip from the main board and solder new blank chip on then it can be programmed but you may need a key programmer to do could cost you about £100 total to do but better than £250 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6476" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T16:57:51.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2014-07-17T17:09:22.877" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the type of compressor which is used. The system in a refrigerator/freezer has a completely closed unit, where the compressor is housed inside of the gas. Because of this, all the lines associated with it can be soldered shut with hard lines, etc.  Because of this, a house refer/freezer will not cool as quickly, either. They work very well, but you also have insulation and a lot smaller volume to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car's compressor is housed outside and the refrigerant pumps through it, with lines which are made of rubber, and seals which deteriorate over time. As long as the seals and hoses remain in good stead, the car's A/C usually will continue running without issue. Lot's of times it's &lt;em&gt;lack&lt;/em&gt; of use which causes A/C equipment to go bad. Vehicle A/C units cool a relatively large volume of air (as well as everything in it -- such as seats, dash, glass, etc.) in a very short time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We expect much more out of a car's A/C than we do out of a refrigerator. They don't stand up as well because it is made to work and work fast, which has the effect of wearing out faster. If you don't want the car to cool as fast, I'm sure they can make one which will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T17:24:19.473" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T17:24:19.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2014-07-17T19:01:24.220" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not even close in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your refrigerator is a small sealed unit that averages 488 BTU, the compressor speed is controlled to operate efficiently as possible, and is designed to operate in a controlled environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to electricity expert Michael Bluejay, the average&#xA;  refrigerator uses 488 BTUs per hour in normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/info_12160135_average-btus-refrigerator.html&quot;&gt;Read more&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car Air Conditioning is about 5 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ton_of_refrigeration&quot;&gt;Tons&lt;/a&gt; (60,000 BTU) at highway speeds. Yes sixty-THOUSAND BTU, not a typo. The compressor has to operate at a variety of speeds, from idle to redline, and a wildly wide range of thermal load, and temperature. The entire system has to put up with vibration and movement, and is assembled with lines that bolt or latch together which give many more points for failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T14:51:42.530" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T14:51:42.530" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T19:02:13.957" Score="8" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car is 2000 Corolla with 58k miles. My front left CV axle was leaking last year so I decided to replace both front CV axles with some generic brand. This was about 5000 miles ago and it worked great for about a year. Before replacing the CV axles, this issue mentioned below never occurred. I also drained and filled with Royal Purple ATF when the CV axles were changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that sometimes, when making slow sharp turns and then immediately coming to a stop, sometimes the CV axles gets &quot;stuck&quot;. If I let go of the brakes at the stop...the car rolls backwards (it feels like something is loose and the wheels &quot;freeroll&quot;)! During this time, the engine is at 900-1000rpm (it should be 650 at idle). It's like the CV axles get disconnected from the transmission.Then, if I press down the gas pedal a little bit...the engine hits around 1400rpm and the CV axles &quot;connect&quot; again and there is a slight jolt and everything is alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also happens at sudden stops (braking hard). Also a related issue: When making a quick sharp turn at normal speed, as soon as the steering wheel comes back to the center...the engine immediately hits 2300 rpm and then comes back down to 1600rpm. Its like the CV axles are disconnecting (transmission is still engaged and computer detects loss of power and raises engine rpm) and then reconnecting (computer detects power to the wheels are restored...and the engine rpm drops to normal levels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, the transmission fluid is normal and it shifts fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think the Royal purple ATF could be causing the issue (after working fine for a year)? Maybe a transmission solenoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6477" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T22:51:50.337" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T22:51:50.337" Title="2000 Corolla, CV axles disconnect and reconnect when stopping/turning" Tags="|toyota|corolla|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2014-07-17T20:41:16.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your car engine seat as this could cause steering and dash board vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6478" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T20:41:16.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:50:47.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 Camry is doing the same thing, I put new motor mounts on, loosened them and re-tightened them and also cleaned the throttle body. Still have vibration coming from the engine. I have been told the throttle computer has to relearn the idle, I tried to disconnect the battery for an hour and it didn't work. When I am at a red light, my rpm is 700. I can press the gas pedal to 1000 and the vibration goes away. Is there something like the computer that controls the idle under load. I need more help from the public thanks if anyone can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6293" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T21:54:26.777" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T19:56:47.957" Title="engine vibration under load" Tags="|engine|toyota|rough-idle|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T00:23:35.763" Score="4" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recycling air light comes on intermittently. My salesman says that's normal, the car knows when it needs to shut off air from the outside. Mighty smart car, but then it's a Honda. Is he blowing smoke up my kilt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6481" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T11:32:36.743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:19:08.987" Title="2014 Honda CRV Air Recycling Light" Tags="|honda|crv|climate-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11506" CreationDate="2014-07-18T01:02:36.623" Score="2" ViewCount="3809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pioneer Jet Boat with a Berkeley Pump attached to a Ford 460 big block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 460 has a Holley carbureter, and Basset water-injected headers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine was running fine until one day when pulling the boat out of the water and putting it on the trailer, we went to try to start it to drain out any excess water and it wouldn't start. We attributed it to being out of fuel. We gassed the boat back up and hauled it back home not thinking anything of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day we try starting it and aren't having any luck. Whenever the motor is cranked over it doesn't even try to start and we only get backfire out of the carb or pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've compression tested it, did a carb rebuild, replaced the plugs, and put a new fuel filter in it without any luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know it's getting fuel because the fuel filter fills up and we see fuel spray into the carb when the throttle is depressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know it's getting spark because we've pulled every plug and tested each plug individual for spark by plugging them into their wires and holding them to the motor (for ground) and watching them spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know it's getting fuel because, well, there's nothing on top of the carb, just open while we work on it and covered up when we're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've also triple checked the timing and we're 99% sure it's ok. Any ideas or input would be of immense help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:27:45.790" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:27:45.790" Title="Ford 460 Does Not Start Only Backfires When Cranking Over" Tags="|ford|starting|backfire|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T03:09:04.970" Score="4" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perodua_Kancil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10+ years old manual car&lt;/a&gt;, still under a pretty good condition I would say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I feel its clutch, doesn't perform quite well as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, when I lift up my leg to release clutch, the clutch suppose to lift up immediately as well. I will feel like the clutch is &quot;sticked&quot; on your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, when I lift up my leg to release clutch initially, I don't feel like the clutch is being lift up immediately. My feeling is that, after rising up my foot says for 5cm, only the clutch will start to rise up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, what could goes wrong with my clutch? As far as I could remember, I just changed my clutch system less than 2 years ago, it works well all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will applying some oil, or lubricant on the &quot;clutch outer joint&quot; help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6484" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T11:24:12.477" Title="Clutch doesn't lift up immediately when I lift up my leg" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T03:36:46.623" Score="2" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is off topic. I couldn't find another StackExchange forum it would fit any better with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a gas powered Troy Bilt (model 01902) pressure washer with a 6.5 HP Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton engine. When I try to start it, it is very difficult to pull the cord. I always hook up the hose to it before starting, turn on the water, and let any air pockets out before starting it. I have found that if I squeeze the trigger to spray water, then it is easier to pull. It starts normally. The engine runs poorly though and it vibrates a lot. If I stop squeezing the trigger to let the water out then the engine quits immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="455" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T12:30:19.483" Title="What's wrong with my pressure washer?" Tags="|repair|water-pump|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T03:41:45.190" Score="0" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trans problem my truck lost power o/d light is blinking and trans does not shift at all it has codes that are p1747 p0755 p0743 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6485" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T04:54:35.540" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T23:38:01.213" Title="trans codes trans not shifting o/d is blinking" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|p1747|p0755|p0743|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11620" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:16:37.930" Score="6" ViewCount="4318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Suzuki Intruder (VL250) that is really struggling to run in the cold weather. It stalls and dies, loses power while riding, and dies while waiting at the lights. When I warm it up, even with the choke on full and the idle high, it still chokes and dies after a few minutes. I have to keep the revs up and constantly feed it gas just to make it to my destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected a dirty carb, although the funny thing is that it only happens when it is cold. Seems to run fine during the day... only on cold mornings does it behave like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the bike has straight pipes installed (with baffles + steel wool). In the past the pipes have not caused any problems, so I do not suspect them. It only happens in the cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6487" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T10:33:24.610" Title="Motorcycle dies while riding in cold" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|cold-start|stall|motors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11390" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:54:22.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now we don't know what car it is. Anyway the are two types of clutch release: hydraulic and cable pull. I would say, you have the second one. The problem is, that your cable do not release the clutch as good as early, because of corrosion or some technical effects. Look at the cable-gearbox-connection, how is that releasing. Maybe I am wrong and you have hydraulic one. Then maybe vent a system will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:54:22.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11392" CreationDate="2014-07-18T07:06:49.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1747 - Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0755 - Shift Solenoid 'B' Malfunction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0743 Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid Circuit Electrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you changed the shift solenoid, you had the same errors? &#xA;Short circuit could happen because of broken shift solenoid. Could also be an electrically error in EPC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T07:06:49.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11376" CreationDate="2014-07-18T10:46:40.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a sympton of a faulty 'mapped' cooling system. When the vehicle is cruising, part of the cooling system is closed off by an electrical engine thermostat. This is allows the engine to run a little hotter, say 96 degrees against 90 degrees. This allows adjustments to timing and mixture to use less fuel, which allows lower fuel consumption and less emissions. The system is monitored by two sensors. One sensor monitors the rad water temperature going into the rad, the other the rad water temperature coming out of the rad. The rad out should read lower then the rad in. If any of the sensors read implausible or the rad out is not lower then rad in by a mapped amount, then it is seen as a overheating situation and the cooling fans come on, very shortly after, or when starting the engine and they run all of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T10:46:40.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11390" CreationDate="2014-07-18T11:24:12.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you're facing is not actually &lt;strong&gt;clutch sticking&lt;/strong&gt;, but I guess it will sooner come to it, where your clutch would literally get stuck to the floor and won't lift up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few things that might be causing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Broken clutch cable&lt;/strong&gt;. (Stretched cable might also be a reason)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydraulics line may have some air&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your clutch master cylinder being low on fluid&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S - Am not sure about Kancil's clutch type though, therefore mentioned both cases.&#xA;Hope this helps. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T11:24:12.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2014-07-18T11:25:42.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the pressure override in the pump itself is broke or malfunctioning. In the pump, there is a valve which will, when pressure gets to high, allow the pump to bypass itself. This allows the motor to keep running when you have released the lever and while you are starting it. Fixing it may be another story, as who knows if any of them are serviceable or not. In most cases, if you take it to a repair shop, it will probably cost you more to get it fixed than it would to replace the entire thing for a new pressure washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T11:25:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11404" CreationDate="2014-07-18T11:57:23.010" Score="3" ViewCount="13387" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I got my windshield hit by an extremely small sized stone. Gradually that small hit created a long crack on my windshield, it's been a month and I guess the crack has stopped with the elongation/growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) How does that very tiny hit eventually creates foot long cracks?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) In how much time should I get the windshield replaced after the incident?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) What level of risk is there if I continue using the cracked windshield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T16:59:47.797" Title="How does a 'very small stone' hit on the windscreen creates long cracks coming out of it?" Tags="|windshield|damage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2014-07-18T12:10:32.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine your windshield is a balloon. The small stone is a needle. When it punctures the windshield, it creates a small tear. Everytime your car goes over a bump, the entire frame twists very slightly. If your windshield was intact, the jolt would be spread across the entire surface but because there's a little tear/chip in the windshield, the force is concentrated right there and the windshield starts tearing/crakcing in that spot. To get a better understanding, watch a youtube video on how kevlar body armour works and why you shouldn't use it again after you've been shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T12:10:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2014-07-18T13:56:27.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, Juann Strauss is right in some parts. It is some kind of &quot;the weakest chain member principle&quot;. At the damaged place the resonance can not be derived as good as early. The structure of created sharp edges destroy each other. It's not recommendable to drive with the broken window shield, but it is not extremely bad. Your windshield has two layers and the film between them. So the inside layer is ok and you will not get some splinter into your eyes. Also you can repair your old windshield (&lt;strong&gt;before it got cracked&lt;/strong&gt;) with epoxy resin. This could be less expensive then a new windshield. So if you see some stone chip, let it repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T13:56:27.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T15:07:35.220" Score="3" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trans codes are p1747 p0755 p0743. My o/d light is blinking and truck has loss of power. It will rev in drive, but in gear no power. It's a 2001 Ford F-150 4.6. I changed A and B solenoid, spark plugs, coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, and cleared codes. Started truck and codes came right back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6485" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T15:19:44.723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:15:20.120" Title="truck not shifting o/d blinking" Tags="|ford|f-150|p1747|p0755|p0743|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T17:33:01.307" Score="4" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the rotors and pads on my Mitsubishi Spyder GT conv. My question is about the position of the caliper guide pins. 2 of the pins have a recess on the end for new seal rings and two of the pins are solid with no recess. I kept track of their position so I could put them back the same way. But, the ones with the recess on the front calipers were in the top position and the rear ones were in the bottom position. The pins are exactly the same diameter and length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems odd, but when I put the new seal ring on them none of them would fit back into the guide holes. I did not want to force them so I left them off for now. (The old ones were pretty mashed up to the point where I had to dig what was left of them out with a curved pick). I doubt they were actually in place prior to dis-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me which position the pins with the recess should be in? (Top or bottom) Should they be the same for the front and rear? Lastly, should I force them in with the new seals in-place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6492" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T12:36:14.300" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T12:36:14.300" Title="Caliper guide pin position on 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Sdyder GT Conv" Tags="|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11399" CreationDate="2014-07-18T19:08:31.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I think the other two answers are good, I think there is a better explanation of what is happening with the windshield when a rock hits it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a rock hits a windshield and puts a &quot;bullseye&quot; into the surface, it creates areas within it called &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18184/4152&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;stress risers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Stress risers cause places in any structure where the stress is localized to a small area. Small flexes in the substance of the window causes more stress in these given areas. Because the stress is localized and cannot disperse across the entire windshield as it normally would, it causes cracks to form. The crack acts as a boundary layer, a place the stress cannot go through. The stress gets to the crack and can either go left or right. The bullseye acts as another boundary layer, so the stress goes the opposite direction and the crack lengthens. Once the stress has a channel to run though, it will continue to follow that channel (path of least resistance) until it hits another boundary layer (usually another edge or another crack) or until the stress is abated enough the crack does not lengthen. Hot and cold cycles can make the crack elongate due to unequal stresses forming on either side of the crack (think of it as pushing and pulling on either side of the crack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your questions 2&amp;amp;3 are very subjective, as this depends on your local laws and your threshold or tolerance for looking through the cracks. Where I live, any crack which is on the driver's side of the window will cause you to fail your safety inspection. The main reason being that it impedes the driver's ability to see the road and surroundings. If the crack stays on the passenger's side, there is no issue. Me personally, I don't like cracked windshields. I don't like looking through them. I don't like other people looking at my vehicle and thinking something bad about me. &lt;em&gt;These are all just personal things&lt;/em&gt; ... like I said, subjective. As was stated, the bullseye alone (with cracks less than 1&quot;) can be fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, if you have full coverage insurance on your vehicle, most insurance companies will pay for it to be fixed without the deductible. If you don't have full coverage, or if your insurance won't cover it, you should to be able to find a mobile windshield repairman to do the work for under $100 fairly easily. There are kits you can purchase to do this yourself, but I doubt the results will be anywhere close to stellar. I've seen what goes into doing the work to fix them. It takes some specialized training to really make it look good and for it to be a long lasting fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T16:59:47.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11414" CreationDate="2014-07-19T00:34:04.257" Score="1" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FONBG1A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dashboard camera.&lt;/a&gt; However I find that the suction cup is weak, I just worry that it can not attach on the windshield for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I heard that there are a few states don't allow mount the device on the windshield.Can I get the list?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3175" LastEditorUserId="3175" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T01:16:39.923" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T10:07:55.590" Title="A better way to support the camera" Tags="|camera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11412" CreationDate="2014-07-19T03:08:48.673" Score="2" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water pump on my car went out so I need a new one. The pulley itself looks fine, not bent, but the entire pulley is tilted in such a way that I'm guessing the pump shaft broke. The local part stores carry new pumps but none carry the actual pulley. Can I use the pulley from the old pump or do I need to order a new pulley online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.4L 4G69 MIVEC&lt;br&gt;&#xA;166,000 Miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6493" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T16:01:38.567" Title="Use pulley from old water pump?" Tags="|mitsubishi|water-pump|pulley|lancer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11406" CreationDate="2014-07-19T13:41:33.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water pump pulley is usually bolted to the pump, and can be re-used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T13:41:33.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2014-07-19T13:59:16.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZwjOAqYkL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; will show you a pad replacement on the Eclipse. You will see the fitment of the pins and boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T17:11:31.540" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T17:11:31.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2014-07-19T14:13:05.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i found this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;transmission turbine (overdrive) usually they crack and work for a while then just stop and keeps the truck from running smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;im guessing you checked fluid level and checked for leaks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dont know if this helps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6476" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T14:13:05.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T15:52:15.443" Score="4" ViewCount="24324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler. A few days ago, I noticed the engine temp getting higher than usual. I'd checked fluids about a week prior. When I got home and checked fluids, the coolant reservoir was empty and the radiator needed coolant added. I added coolant to both and drove it the next day. I took it into the shop the next day and they said I had a bad water pump and then replaced it and the thermostat. Now, two days later, I drove it to a store and the parking space now has coolant all in it. My reservoir is empty. I haven't been able to check the radiator yet because it's not cooled down enough. This happened last year and I had to replace the radiator. It seems strange to happen after having just replaced the water pump, though. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6495" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T16:03:17.830" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T13:33:05.273" Title="Replaced water pump two days ago...today antifreeze filling up parking space" Tags="|cooling-system|jeep|water-pump|wrangler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11406" CreationDate="2014-07-19T16:01:38.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this looks like your water pump, then yes you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOFjB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image Pulled From RockAuto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tilt in the pulley is caused not from a broke shaft, but from a worn bushing which the shaft rides upon. This is just one of the symptoms which shows up when the pump is dying a short miserable death. As the bushing wears out, there is created more and more space (slop) which allows the shaft to lilt more and more. The force the belt creates on the pulley will in and of itself cause the tilt of the shaft. The pulley is made to come off of the pump and be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T16:01:38.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11411" CreationDate="2014-07-19T16:08:48.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on where the fluid is coming from. If you can determine where it is leaking from, you'll be far ahead of where you are now. If it is coming from the water pump or one of the connections at the water pump, it would appear the problem lies with the shop which did the work for you. You need to take it back to where it was fixed and have them diagnose it. If you replaced the radiator just last year, it should not be worn out or having issues already nor should it be the cause of your issue &lt;em&gt;unless they somehow screwed it up&lt;/em&gt;. Usually, when you have something fixed, if there is a problem in the same area of concern, either it was not fixed correctly (misdiagnosed) or there is a problem with the part(s) which were used or the procedure used to fix it. Either way, take it back and have them get it fixed. I wouldn't let them give you a song-n-dance about it being something else, especially if you can localize it to the water pump in the first place ... in other words, don't pay for something again which you've already paid for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T16:08:48.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11405" CreationDate="2014-07-19T16:27:53.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely run this thing off of your windshield, not mounted upon the dash. If you are attaching it to your windshield, it should have plenty enough suction to keep it in place. Ensure you read the direction on how to make it stick, but two pieces of advice on that note: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Ensure both the mating and suction cup surfaces are perfectly clean of dirt/lint/debris. Use some Windex or other cleaner to make it so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Ensure the suction cup is moist (you can use spit, but water should work just fine) when you go to apply it to your windshield just prior to affixing it. This will ensure it has a tight bond with the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a list of states which have a windshield obstruction law, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.proclipusa.com/are-suction-cup-windshield-mounts-legal-in-your-state/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these states&lt;/a&gt; have one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alabama&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkansas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecticut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delaware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;District of Columbia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Georgia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idaho&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iowa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kansas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kentucky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Louisiana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Montana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nebraska&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Jersey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Mexico&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North Dakota&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oklahoma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oregon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pennsylvania&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rhode Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South Carolina&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South Dakota&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Texas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Virginia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Washington&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West Virginia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wisconsin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyoming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may be illegal to mount devices on the windshield in these states, enforcement of these laws is very slack. I live in Virginia and have never been stopped for running a mounting on my windshield here, though when I have my State safety inspection, they say it cannot be mounted. If anything, it's a secondary offense type thing, which means they &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; give you a ticket for it if they have pulled you over for a primary offense. It's been my experience that a police officer would probably just suggest you remove it from your windshield and not worry about the paperwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also of note that these states have a law which dictates where you can actually have a windshield mounted device located (each state will vary as to where):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arizona&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;California&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hawaii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indiana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maryland&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minnesota&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nevada&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utah&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still having issues with your suction mount or do not feel like tempting the Fates to mount it to your windshield, Velcro on the dash works very well to mount things. Back in my early days, I mounted a cassette deck to the bottom of my dash using it (yah, really dating myself), and that thing was no where near light. Hook and loop fasteners are great for such a thing, but personally I'd just run it off of your windshield and call it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T17:00:29.763" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T17:00:29.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2014-07-19T21:45:19.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;HTC offers an accessory, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.htc.com/us/accessories/htc-bluetooth-stereoclip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluetooth Stereo Clip&lt;/a&gt;. It allows for wireless streaming from device to the car’s AUX jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this in my 2009 528i. It plugs right into the AUX jack, and a short USB cable plugs in right next to it, providing power. It’s battery powered, but charges via the USB, and it connects automatically when you get into the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perfect solution. Looked all over before I found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6497" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T15:44:56.633" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T15:44:56.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11405" CreationDate="2014-07-20T10:07:55.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These and other windscreen mounted devices usually have a plastic film over the attachment cup surface as part of their packaging. This is to keep the attachment clean. It should be removed before use. Leaving the film attached would prevent the mounting attaching to the screen. The legal aspect in the UK is that if the camera or other item is attached  in such a way as to obstruct the drivers view of the road, the attachment is considered to be &quot;Using a dangerous accessory&quot;. If the attachment is in the drivers view of the road and the driver is obviously using the attachment whilst driving the vehicle, it is condsidered to be &quot;Driving without due care and attention&quot;. Cameras, GPS units, and mobile phones, and the such like usually have a disclaimer on their packaging warning of these considerations. One other point is that these attachments leave marks on the screen which inform any thief passing by that there is bounty to be had in the vehicles glovebox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T10:07:55.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11422" CreationDate="2014-07-20T10:23:12.640" Score="4" ViewCount="19079" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of the various chain degreasing techniques. I want to maintain my chain and sprockets to the best possible standard and have heard many schools of thought on chain cleaning but I'd like an engineers perspective on the best method for keeping a chain maintained without &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;taking the chain off&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a really dirty bike whose previous owner had never cleaned the chain, there was years of caked grime and grease and asphalt, I put the bike on centre-stand, put it in first (running) and pointed a hot soapy jet wash at the chain for ten minutes. I found a pretty decent shiny chain in surprisingly good condition under all the guck. (warning for the uninitiated: this is dangerous. It's not intended as advice. Don't try this at home. Chains should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; be cleaned while the engine is running.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I first started chain maintenance, I would get through a full aerosol can of whatever brand motorcycle chain cleaner happened to be cheapest at a motor factors. I would rarely get a clean chain without using the full can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Later, I bought a three-sided chain brush and found I could get away with only a third or half a can of aerosol degreaser by scrubbing while spraying and wiping away muck with a rag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are cheap(er), citrus based degreaser products (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290967791120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350973523861&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) safe to use on a motorcycle chain? Will they damage my o-rings? (also: what are o-rings?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is WD40 (or similar) harmful to a chain? Some say that it removes lubricant from the chain internals so you should avoid it or only use it if the chain is off the bike and can be really thoroughly re-lubricated after the clean. Is this true?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:10:02.383" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T12:37:24.020" Title="Motorcycle chain degreasing" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|cleaning|chain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11411" CreationDate="2014-07-20T10:35:40.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hoses have a silicon content and over time their clamps cause a deterioration to the hose, internally, where the clamp fits. New hoses may be the order of the day. A temporary fix would be to use Jubilee clips to replace the saw-tooth clamps you have already. These can be undone and parted to allow the clip to pass around the hose without disconnecting the hose and then re-assembled and tightened. You should though allow the shop that fitted the pump have an opportunity to rectify any fitting faults. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T10:35:40.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2014-07-20T16:22:16.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer citrus-based cleaner. I had used Park Tools bicycle chain cleaner, because I had it laying around, and it works great, although expensive. I plan on buying generic cleaner in large containers. It also has a benefit of being bio-degradable (oil and gunk is not, but at least it doesn’t add to the water-table pollution hazard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually pour a little of the cleaner in an open container, and use brush to dip into it, and spread cleaner over the chain. This way you don’t contaminate the rest, and only use a little at a time. After the chain is clean, I would wash it off with water (often, chain cleaning is coincident with bike wash — wash the top side, clean the chain, wash it off and finish the wheels and bottom), let it dry and help, if possible, with compressed air to blow as much water out as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other solvents that can be used to clean chain drive, such as kerosene or mineral spirit, but they are messier, and nastier (have to use rubber gloves with them) whereas citrus-based solvent works real well, smells nice, and have little side-effects, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever cleaner you use, you have to make sure it is safe for rubber, which is what O-rings usually made of. Most bicycle chains and chain drives in controlled and clean industrial setting do not have those, but motorcycle chains have O-rings, which is basically a seal on both sides on the inside of each roller surrounding pins, with grease packed inside of them. This way the grease is protected, the pin-roller interface is always lubricated, and the operator only have to worry about cleaning and lubricating outer plates and sprockets. If the seals dry out, lose their elasticity and crack, the grease would come out (can sometimes be evident by coloured residue on the chain) and the dirt would come in wearing the chain prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for WD-40 or similar light oils, they would not be efficient cleaners, and not very good lubricants for the application. I normally just use gear oil applied with a brush at home on a stand, or low-fling chain wax out of the can when out on the road for extended period of time (all-day trips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final point. I do not clean the chain every time I oil it. I oil the chain every 300-400 km (200-250 miles), and on average clean the chain only every 3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; or 4&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt; oiling when riding in the city, unless it’s been contaminated heavy with dust and dirt after being out on the trail, or winter slush with road salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="1764" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T16:27:23.283" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:27:23.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T20:28:18.273" Score="3" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the owner's manual service/maintenance guide, automatic transmission fluid, differential oil &amp;amp; transfer case oil should be inspected for leaks at the following intervals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission fluid/Differential Oil: every 3750 miles&#xA;Transfer Case oil: every 7500 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the notes, &quot;if towing a trailer, using a camper or driving on rough/muddy roads, replace fluid/oil every 30,000 miles or 24 months.&quot;  This is also the replacement interval recommended under the &quot;Premium Maintenance.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good rule of thumb for changing these fluids during light city/highway driving, or should I just go by the 30k interval?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1130" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T16:18:52.303" Title="2007 Nissan Frontier Transmission, Differential &amp; Transfer Case service intervals for light driving?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|service|differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2014-07-20T20:54:15.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My perspective comes from the bicycle community. I admit there is a size and expense difference but I believe the principles are the same. The best longest lasting lubricant is the stuff the factory used while assembling the chain. It is in the right place which is between the side plates. It is viscous enough that it will not be thrown off at high RPM. Anything you apply that is thin enough to get between the plates is likely thin enough to get thrown off or washed off. The lube must match the conditions that you most often ride in. An oily sticky lube used in dry dusty conditions will cause dirt and grit to stick to the chain making it wear faster. Dry conditions require a dry lube. Many dry lubes come suspended in a solvent that evaporates and allow the lube to penetrate into the small spaces between the plates. Wet conditions require an oily type lube to repel water. Many use the same principle of suspending the lube in a solvent that evaporates leaving a thicker film. All condition lubes are like All Season tires, they work in the middle zone of both conditions, but not as well as the specific types. If you find some dirt sticking to your wet lubed chain, spray it lightly with a cleaner and wipe the side plates with a rag to remove the heaviest dirt.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:54:15.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11423" CreationDate="2014-07-20T22:07:27.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What most don't understand is that when we are driving a vehicle, we should be servicing it under the &quot;premium plan&quot; or whatever your particular brand of manufacture calls it. We abuse our vehicles far more than we understand. Light city driving is a plethora of stop and go which is actually pretty strenuous on vehicles. If you are driving it on the highway, are you only going the speed limit? Around my neck of the woods, the &quot;speed limit&quot; is quite often flowing with traffic between 75-80 mph. That is actually strenuous on a vehicle. If you &quot;only&quot; drive the posted speed limit, then you could be considered driving easy on your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, something to consider is if you maintain your vehicle at the lower mileage, and can prove it, a dealership will never come back at you if you should ever have a problem with the vehicle. There would be no way they can tell you a problem with the vehicle which should be covered under warranty ever happened due to lack of maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, you will not be doing your vehicle any harm by doing the maintenance on the quicker schedule. Clean oil and filters will only prolong the it's life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the point is here, as long as you can afford it, there is no downside to doing the maintenance on the quicker schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T22:07:27.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11430" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:19:01.137" Score="6" ViewCount="4098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to locate an alternate jack and lift point for my Honda Insight. I'm trying to lift the entire front end of the vehicle so I can put the stands under the pinch welds near the wheels. I can't put the jack under the pinch welds and put the stands on it because the jack is too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be a clearly marked jack point or tow hook in the front of the Insight (I think Hondas generally have an arrow to denote the front jack point). The only points in the manual are the reinforced pinch welds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure which parts of the subframe or control arm to choose to stick the jack under. I took a few pictures with a few potential options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SU9eN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Subframe and control arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScsrB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Subframe points&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qQcS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Potential point&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T09:02:03.880" Title="Finding alternate jack points in a Honda Insight" Tags="|honda|safety|jack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:48:04.707" Score="1" ViewCount="2297" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced the Alternator it drained my battery, It started having a parasitic draw. I replaced battery because it was over the warranty. The first day with new battery was fine. Then I left it parked for a few hours and it will crank but will not stay running unless I pump the gas and hold the pedal. It's sluggish and after running for 15-20 minutes it starts right up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6505" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T01:07:49.577" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:33:28.963" Title="Vehicle will not stay running after alternator change" Tags="|ford|taurus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T22:49:40.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this wired up in the past but I forget how it was done and some things came apart. We have a simple 12v horn and relay. The relay is a KUMP 7D58-12. Here (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82O88.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82O88.jpg&lt;/a&gt;) are some pictures of how I think it should be wired. I don't want to try anything before I have it checked so that's my question. The 12v is supplied from a 48v&gt;12v converter already installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I missed something in there that needs explained, let me know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="SEJR" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:10:31.317" Title="Wiring Relay &amp; Horn on Golf Cart" Tags="|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11428" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:10:31.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relay has two independent NO contacts. Doesn't matter which is used. Also, the specific wiring locations of the horn and switch don't matter either, but this is the general idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlPAK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:10:31.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11426" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:26:58.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first picture where you have the orange circled item ... just to the left of it (in the picture) there is a large bolt which attaches the circled item to the body. This would probably be a good lift point. I've found that anywhere which is going to be used as a bolted mount point is going to be very sturdy. If you are worried about marring the bolt, put a piece of wood between the jack and the bolt head. This will provide enough protection by spreading the load over a larger area as well as a softer, malleable point to jack from. It looks as though there is two of these, one on each side of the vehicle which you can lift from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T01:15:35.257" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T01:15:35.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2014-07-21T06:12:50.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my own exp, Gumout is among the WORST product on the world that I've ever used. The price, on the other hand, is dirty cheap but you always get what you pay for.&#xA;You can read more details about gumout injector cleaner here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://fuelinjectorcleanerreviews.com/gumout-fuel-system-cleaner-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fuelinjectorcleanerreviews.com/gumout-fuel-system-cleaner-review/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T06:12:50.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11426" CreationDate="2014-07-21T09:02:03.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern vehicles are built in the expectation that when being worked on they will be in a repair shop, equipped with service ramps. The is usually a two post ramp, which has four jacking arms. Their arms are placed under the seams of the vehicle, or specific lifting points on them, to raise the vehicle. If you do not have a ramp available, the next best option is two vehicle jacks, one each side. Jack them gradually and equally to raise the vehicle to fit the stands. The third option is with a single jack. Jack each side a small amount at a time, adjusting the stand heights as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T09:02:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11427" CreationDate="2014-07-21T09:16:42.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description of your problems, it points to a continuing problem with a parasitic drain. Whilst not an every day event, sometimes a new alternator can be defective. Your alternator may have been damaged in transit or may not be an incorrect replacement for your vehicle. The electrical system needs to be checked out again, and a scan for any contributing faults from elsewhere other than the alternator and battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T09:16:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11423" CreationDate="2014-07-21T09:34:00.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motor manufacturers test their vehicles over thousands of miles in dozens of environments, to arrive at their recommended service schedules. It follows on that the best maintenance schedule would be the vehicle manufacturers using their recommended oils, fluids and OEM replacement parts. You can of course operate your vehicle with your own custom plan, but it would be at your own risk of any problems that may, or may not, arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T09:34:00.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2014-07-21T11:46:29.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your remote key have battery then  pull it out fast. The other thing you can use your vacuum cleaner. You can try to get as much of that moisture out as possible. Hope this information will help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T11:46:29.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11438" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:27:48.480" Score="7" ViewCount="1740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hadn't used my car in a week. Normally it always starts. Then one day after one week it didn't start. I got a jump from my neighbor and i was able to drive around for more than 20 minutes. I stopped for about 10 minutes, turned on the car and was able to drive home. Next morning i can't start my car, I replaced the alternator about 2 years ago. Could it be the battery ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6513" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:39:10.297" Title="Alternator vs Battery" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:33:27.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could simply be the battery needs a complete charge, or it could be the battery or a parasitic draw. You need to have the battery tested to start. You can see my post here on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;how to test a battery&lt;/a&gt;, or most auto parts stores will do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:33:27.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:39:10.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;20 minutes is not enough to load your battery. If you could start your car after you driven a bit, your alternator is ok. You could try to load you battery, but it could be, that it reached a low point discharge. If so, only new one will help. Also if the battery is more then 5 years old, just change it. Old batteries lose more and more power at the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:39:10.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11444" CreationDate="2014-07-21T17:52:06.967" Score="7" ViewCount="77262" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spark plug pictured here:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yy6o3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has some black carbon on the underside of the ground electrode and has black carbon on the &quot;base&quot; area below the centre electrode (not pictured). Is this normal and healthy for a fuel injected engine? Or, does this suggest too &quot;rich&quot; a fuel/air mix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other signs of spark plug health related to fuel mixture and spark plug gap to look for when pulling and inspecting a plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4359" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T17:35:41.423" Title="What does a healthy spark plug look like?" Tags="|sparkplugs|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11445" CreationDate="2014-07-21T18:06:23.003" Score="5" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently doing up a Mk1 VW Golf and I have reached the stage where I need to make a decision on my engine paint. It will be at shows so I want something nice (but not Chrome). Is there any way I can paint an engine with Matte Paint? If I can, how do I do it safely? Attached is a picture of the engine currently:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOwOg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VW Golf MK1 engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6515" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T20:56:45.313" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T16:07:12.703" Title="Is it possible to paint my Mk1 Golf Engine in either Matte Black or Grey? If so, how?" Tags="|engine|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11441" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:10:40.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your example is running pretty good, but may be a tad on the rich side. Nothing much to worry about. If it were running a tad bit leaner, the plug would have more of an tan/ash color to it. When reading the plug, don't pay as much attention to the bit at the top of the threads. This area is prone to have some minor carbon build up no matter how well the plug is running. This is because of it's location and proximity to the head. This area will run a bit cooler as well as like to trap a tiny bit of fuel which causes the carbon deposits. The electrode and ground electrode are the two areas you should concentrate on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other examples and what to look for, here is a chart which shows pretty well a good range of what spark plugs might look like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVJWu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Images and text in image from the NGK website as posted in the Robert S. Barnes Comment.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had put this out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11042/need-to-know-about-spark-plug&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt; a while back. While the answer covers this question, the questions really don't line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T11:44:49.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11442" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:24:54.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ultimate answer is &quot;yes&quot;. You can paint it lime green with purple polka dots if you really wanted to. If you want to do it right and make it look good, you'll need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the engine/transmission and separate them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the heck out of the entire assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove or cover any parts which you do not want painted (such as accessories or intake/exhaust ports).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the area to be painted with a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008QDSVPE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prep-All&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray paint the surfaces with a good high-temp primer. This can be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globalindustrial.com/product/itemKey/30974364?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjw9LKeBRDurOugs43jnlgSJACUXqHx1KZ858lzL1Wb-9zt1Mm2k7NeHBKXW-lKMRthFeo1LhoCPi_w_wcB&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rattle can&lt;/a&gt;. Follow the directions on the can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray paint the primered areas with a good high temp paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the paint completely dry before you re-install the components. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the engine is out of the vehicle, clean all areas of the engine bay. Also consider repainting this area. If you do, you'll need to use some type of scuffing pad to paint on top of the old paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the reason why you want to use a high temp paint is so in the areas around exhaust ports and such, the paint will not peel off. VHT is pretty good paint and I know it comes in flat black. It is usually used to paint headers and such, but you should have good luck with it here. There are also coatings you can use to &quot;paint&quot; your exhaust manifolds to make them look absolutely fabulous. Check a company which makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POR-15&lt;/a&gt; and also another company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastwood.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastwood&lt;/a&gt; for different versions of what I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T16:07:12.703" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T16:07:12.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T00:13:14.157" Score="3" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to start my car one morning for work and it would turn over you could hear the engine running then as soon as you heard it, it would shut off.  My neighbor said it's not the fuel pump (he checked the pressure), he thinks it's the brain.  We replaced it and it is still doing the same thing.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6517" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T21:57:44.273" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T05:01:21.560" Title="2002 saturn sl200 car dies withing 2 -3 seconds after starting" Tags="|troubleshooting|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T10:00:38.367" Score="4" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 BMW e36 320i, when i start in the morning, or in cold weather, the cars functions normally and has a lot of power. However, after a little, or when the weather is hot, the car significantly looses power, and as if it seems to be another car. The gearbox also begins to shift in a rough way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat of the car remains normal, and it is even most of the times below the average temperature. I tried installing K&amp;amp;N air filters, but i kept getting the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6520" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:28:39.463" Title="BMW e36 320i motor looses power significantly out of a sudden" Tags="|engine|bmw|power|gears|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11446" CreationDate="2014-07-22T15:14:59.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lock and unlock your car using the key buttons two or three times, count to three between presses. Finally open the door with the key buttons, put the key into ignition and turn it to run. If the indicator for the immobiliser stays on, you now know you have an immobiliser fault. You will proberbly have to have your vehicle scanned for any faults, even if the immobiliser resets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T15:14:59.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2014-07-22T15:22:43.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have your vehicle scanned for any basic faults. If the problem is intermittant as described, then use a data logger such as Launch CRecorder or iOBD2, to track the vehicle operation and show up any intermmittant fault. A lot of scanners will also record the engine operation to enable you to scutinise the record for faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T15:22:43.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T17:30:04.293" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased Hyundai Accent diesel 2002 four cylinder from my savings .. its start every morning but not at night when the car's headlights are on. I couldn't start it after one or two attempt . The battery automatically drains when car headlights are on. The starter stops working because of low battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure .. its my battery problem or alternator problem. I've checked my car battery in different car and its work great .. but in my car its only charge on day time when light is off but not when light is on . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T17:38:43.007" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:30:11.917" Title="Hyundai Accent Diesel 2002 alternator works on day but not when headlights are on" Tags="|battery|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11250" CreationDate="2014-07-22T18:00:54.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem awhile back---'97 Chevy Blazer---misfiring on take off (accelerating in first gear), and as it turned out, the rubber boot on my PCV (pressure control valve) had deteriorated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...I'd just had an oil change a couple days prior, and it looked like the tech who did the work broke the boot, then ELECTRICAL TAPED it back together. ..yeah, that'll work. In his defense, I suppose the prior tech could've broke it and the next guy just repeated the patch, but I don't know why he wouldn't've mentioned it if he didn't break it, you know? Next, the O'Reillys didn't have the boot for my engine. Fortunately an Oldsmobile one fit just fine. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. I'm basically promoting &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam%27s_razor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Occam's Razor&lt;/a&gt; here, which in a nutshell means the simplest solution is often the most likely. My replacement PCV boot was only like $2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4509" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T18:00:54.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2014-07-22T18:22:50.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you probably have a so-called &quot;vacuum&quot; leak. The &quot;hiss&quot; you mentioned is a tell-tale sign, and your air conditioning mode controls (both hot/cold, duct selection, etc.) are controlled by vacuum lines under the hood. At least, everything I just said it true of my Chevy Blazer, so I assume your Honda could have similar engineering. Sometimes these are easy fixes---especially if you look around where you hear the hissing and see a little hose the width of a pencil disconnected, or perhaps really deteriorated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These aren't exactly your car---but they're diagnosing similar symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/hdv8J1xb4Ck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chevrolet S10 Vacuum Leak Repair&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/CbEMURzbHNc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cruise &amp;amp; HVAC controls vacuum leak fix, Jeep Wrangler TJ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This one isn't as similar as you might think, as it amounted to a bad compressor, I don't think your problem is as dire.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/cImkxnOV_nI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to: 1990 Honda Prelude - Diagnosis Air Conditioning Inop and a Vacuum leak&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4509" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T18:22:50.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8430" CreationDate="2014-07-22T18:31:49.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your initial approach was solid: New thermostat followed by a flush/fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....another simple thing you can try is replacing your radiator cap. Old radiator caps have seal erosion won't hold pressure, slowly leak coolant, and then &lt;em&gt;once the coolant gets low&lt;/em&gt;, you'll get these symptoms--slow to heat and wild temp fluctuations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think the only cheap thing left for you to try is replacing the radiator cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you might check your coolant level a couple days (or even several hours) after you last top off the reservoir and run the engine. I've heard of radiators &quot;burping&quot;, where it seems like they're full, then after the car runs for awhile, it's like &quot;oh wait, but now it'll accept more coolant??&quot; So this is just to be prudent make sure you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; starting with a full radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If neither of those two tips gets you going, unfortunately this could mean a failing water pump. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4509" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T18:31:49.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11427" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:33:28.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also you need to make sure your belts are tight.  A loose belt can cause the alternator to not charge properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:33:28.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:54:54.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will preface this by saying I do not have a lock on BMW's, especially older ones, so take this for what it's worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were an American car with mid 90's fuel injection, I'd say your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor was bad. Since it's a BMW and it appears they didn't use a MAF, I'd point to the air flow meter. Here is my thinking. I'm going to make an assumption that BMW's go through two phases of running, that being open loop and closed loop. Open loop mode is where the engine is at start-up and is not warmed up yet. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) does not utilize some of the sensors at this point (ie: O2 sensors and air flow meter), but rather relies on the throttle position sensor and some others. When the engine is warmed up enough, it switches over to closed loop mode, in which it uses all of those sensors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this may not be exactly the scenario, it seems likely that one or more of the control sensors which helps the ECU decide how much fuel to dump may be bad (or not responding correctly), so the amount of fuel which is dumped into the engine is out of whack and therefor makes the engine run completely different once it switches modes. Since the air flow meter is a very expensive part and you can only get them as rebuilt (not new ... at least not from the parts stores), I will NOT suggest you run down and just replace this. Take it to a skilled mechanic who can diagnose this for sure, as Alan has stated. I could be completely off base not knowing exactly how BMW control systems work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:54:54.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T00:09:43.290" Score="2" ViewCount="5065" Body="&lt;p&gt;After taking a nap in the parking lot at my job, the driver's seat (power seating) -- the passenger seat did work-- I had laid back could not be readjusted. After work I went home (3am closing shift). Two days later no power whatsoever. I jumped the battery still no lights (electrical lights and headlights). Even when i turn the key over there is no sound or click. When I needed a new battery few months back, there was a distinct clicking sound.  The battery is definitely good (new). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No previous electrical or wiring problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I still can't get the engine to turn over or the lights (oil, engine, ABS, etc) to come on when the key is turned to the second and third position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                       Any ideas it is a Mercedes ML430 - 1999.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6526" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T07:14:22.473" Title="Mercedes ML 430 will not start. No click, no electrical lights nothing." Tags="|battery|starting|mercedes-benz|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T02:53:44.587" Score="2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I speed up in my 1996 caprice I hear pinging sounds that sound like little rocks hitting my drive shaft. would that be u joints? it only does it at lower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6527" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T09:02:35.323" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T09:02:35.323" Title="1996 Chevrolet Caprice - drive train is making noise" Tags="|chevrolet|drivetrain|caprice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T04:30:45.987" Score="2" ViewCount="22665" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I program a replacement fob for my 2003 Malibu (not remote-start equipped)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to do the following:  The instructions that came with the fobs said to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit in the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shut all doors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the key in the ignition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the door unlock button on the drivers door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key to the on position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key to the off position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key to the on position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key to the off position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;release the unlock button on the door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Car is supposed lock and unlock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After that you have to hold the lock and unlock on the fob for 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IT DOES NOT WORK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to sit in the car, close door, hold door lock on unlock while I enter the key, pull it out. Enter the key, pull it out, enter the key and release the door unlock button. The door is supposed to chime three times. Then I am supposed to hold the lock and unlock button on the fob for 12 seconds. The door is supposed to chime twice and the fob should be programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried this also and there were no chimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this product is wrong.  People are telling me to take it to Chevy or a locksmith.  Why do that if you say it works?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6528" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T19:37:04.757" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T19:37:04.757" Title="How can I program a replacement fob for a 2003 Malibu?" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|keyless-entry|fob|program|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T05:57:03.133" Score="4" ViewCount="59354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is for a 2006 Dodge Magnum, 2.7 liter engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just over the past month or so, I noticed when I'm cruisung, just coming from a dead stop,  when I'm at 40 mph my car kinda feels like it jumps and the RPM jumps to over the three grand and back down to where it usually is, somewhere around two thousand. This was more sporadic, but now it's doing at almost every time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could possibly be wrong with it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much money, but I need to get to work and home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be me, but it seems like my car doesn't have enough get up and go when I put it in reverse from a flat straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'm driving my car any different now then I was before :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help with these question would be totally appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6530" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T09:49:31.747" Title="RPM jumps up &amp; back down at 40mph" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|dodge|rpm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2014-07-23T07:06:42.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is that your clutch is slipping. Either because the mechanism isn't working properly (rare but possible) or the clutch is worn (very likely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T07:06:42.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11461" CreationDate="2014-07-23T07:11:30.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need specialized equipment to break the encryption. The equipment will cost more than simply taking it to a dealer or remote and alarm specialist and having &lt;em&gt;them&lt;/em&gt; do it. It's not an overly complicated job, but the equipment makes it infeasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T07:11:30.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11480" CreationDate="2014-07-23T07:52:23.220" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, if off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a two year old electric pressure washer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Model: Bosch aquatek 100 plus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this every week to wash my car. Last week, the motor was making a lot of sound and the water spray pressure was very low.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, I took it to the service center where they say the end casing and housing is damaged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this happen? The machine was never abused. Also, they say the pressure washer needs to be serviced every six months. In service, they change some oil of the motor. Is this true, I haven't heard of that from anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is nothing mentioned about this service in the service-manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rohith M&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6488" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T14:07:45.380" Title="No pressure in car pressure washer" Tags="|electrical|water-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11471" CreationDate="2014-07-23T09:12:31.787" Score="3" ViewCount="9047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C4 1.6 petrol (2006) and the other day while I was driving the engine light came on with a message &quot;Depollution system faulty&quot;. I connected the OBD-II to my computer to get the error code and it was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.datsc.com/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/P0350/Diagnostics/Citroen/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0350&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that error I think my option would be that a wire is loose or something, because I didn't feel anything weird while driving. The problem is that I don't know where to look in the engine to check the cables are properly attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T00:00:08.323" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T11:59:22.853" Title="Citroen Ignition coil problem (P0350 code)" Tags="|ignition|obd-ii|citroen|citroen-c4|p0350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8814" CreationDate="2014-07-23T09:58:10.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upside down forks where added to the GSXR11 and 750 on the L model in 1990. There are lots of subtle differences and changes since then, and modern stuff is significantly more advanced. Suggest you try and Google part numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T09:58:10.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11467" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:11:36.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This code means you have faulty wiring/coil pack. Usually means a new coil pack. To find the coil pack, look at the top of the engine. Between the engines top cover and its manifolds, at the rear, you will see a manifold wide black block. It has a grey plug entering it from its right hand side. (Viewed from the front of the vehicle). This is your coil pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:11:36.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11466" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:17:49.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water and electricity do not mix. The integrity of the machine is a &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt;. If it is a budget washer, simply replace it as it is two years old. If it is a more expensive machine then you have to weigh the cost of replacement against a bona-fida repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:17:49.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:28:40.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your transmission oil level? Low oil level could cause your symptoms. Whilst checking your oil level is there any water contamination? Coolant can get into trans fluid from the trans-oil cooler. You need to let your vehicle repairer carry out an examination of its transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:28:40.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11461" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:44:44.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may solve your problem. If your not too happy about it, check your local 'Yellow Pages' for a company selling and programming auto keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit in the driver's seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close all the doors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press and hold unlock on the door lock switch (on the door)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, insert and remove the&#xA;ignition key twice. DO NOT ROTATE THE KEY.. JUST SLIDE IT IN AND BACK&#xA;OUT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the ignition key the third time, leaving the key in the ignition cylinder. DO&#xA;NO TURN KEY&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the door lock switch. You will hear 3 chimes indicating the transmitter&#xA;programming is active.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless entry remote at the&#xA;same time (one remote) for 12 seconds. You will hear two chimes. This indicates the&#xA;transmitter has been programmed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 8 for all additional transmitters to be programmed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exit programming by removing the key from the ignition cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T00:45:32.113" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T00:45:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2014-07-23T11:04:36.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to inspect your driveshaft for security from front to rear, bolts, joints, brackets and for any damage. Are you sure the pinging is from your driveshaft? Pinging is normally associated with engine pinking, especially when accelerating from a low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T11:04:36.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11459" CreationDate="2014-07-23T11:42:31.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your battery across its posts, do not use any wiring or its clamp. Post to post with a voltmeter will tell you if you have power in the battery. Then with the red lead connected to the positive post, check for voltage on the vehicles negative cable clamp at the battery. Red lead connected still, check for voltage at the negative cable earthing end, and also check for voltage at the vehicle where the cable is bolted to the vehicle. You are looking for a large drop in voltage. Rectify any faults. If the battery and its connections are all OK, then the next step is the ignition switch. Check for a good feed and that the terminals are giving out a good voltage to the differant cables as you turn the key to its differant positions. Next along the line is the Multifunction Control Module in the engine bay, but you will now need a good auto electrician. Your Merc does have a DLC plug, but it is unlikely to be working with a complete power loss like you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T11:42:31.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11539" CreationDate="2014-07-23T14:02:42.770" Score="8" ViewCount="27779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Civic. The A/C works pretty well - it comes on fast and blows cold. However, after 5 - 10 minutes it stops cooling and starts blowing warm air. If I turn the A/C off, after another 5 - 10 minutes I am able to turn it on again and I can feel the compressor engage and it cools again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be due to low freon? Can I fix this myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T23:27:23.130" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T18:34:32.287" Title="Air Conditioning Cools Intermittently" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11466" CreationDate="2014-07-23T14:07:45.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course this can happen. Pumps have a lot of failure modes, and it wouldn't need any abuse to fail after 2 years. I have had one Karcher live 5 years and one just under 2. Usage: washing the car once a month or thereabouts. They are sturdier than most, but expecting a long life out of any pressure washer is optimistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be confident the service centre guys are being perfectly honest, and unless you have an extended warranty, this is a hardware failure, that you can either fix or replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest buying a new one. They aren't high cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T14:07:45.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11488" CreationDate="2014-07-23T14:57:20.177" Score="2" ViewCount="14122" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toro lawnmower featuring a Briggs-Stratton 7.25HP motor has been losing power lately. It is about 2 years old and I've used the maintenance kit (spark plug, air filter, oil, &amp;amp; fuel treatment) to prep it at the start of each year. This year, it has really been struggling however. Typically, when I start it up, it oscillates between running strong and puttering out a few times before it's either ready to go or putters out completely. These symptoms have gotten progressively worse until it won't start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a carb cleaner a few weeks ago, which really helped to get it going again but the problems came back a few weeks later and additional carb clearner doesn't seem to be helping anymore. This past weekend I bought another maintenance kit for it but it still won't start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be of significance that I think I may stress it a bit with cutting tall sometimes wet grass as well as with taking it around my very uneven back yard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6355" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T02:19:29.827" Title="Briggs-Stratton Lawnmower motor losing power" Tags="|engine|carburetor|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T16:38:45.553" Score="-1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I blew my heater hose on my 98 Honda Accord v6 vtech sprayed coolant all over my cap and wires so I replaced the wires and my idle was fluctuating so I then cleaned my iacv as I was coming to a stop the car stalled out and wouldn't start so I wiggles the spark plug wires and it fired up what else could it be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6535" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T21:08:12.740" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T21:11:44.847" Title="98 accord v6 rough idle car stall" Tags="|honda|electrical|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T19:47:35.090" Score="3" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;A poor pidgeon came off second-best to the front grille of my Chevrolet Kalos a few days ago - I had no desire of being rear-ended by the car that was following me too closely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom of the grille got pushed in due to this calamity, to the point where I can see the bolt-heads and mounting-slots that were previously obscured by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetically it doesn't look great, but I don't mind that too much. I'm wondering if there might be a knock-on effect, that might lead to something more serious though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I anything to worry about? I haven't [yet] detected any odd smells or sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1307" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T21:07:14.493" Title="Grill of car got knocked inwards - should I worry?" Tags="|chevrolet|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:47:38.233" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 01 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L and the error codes I get after an ODB check is p0171.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i first start it up it's like it loses power, constantly hiccuping. So i have to press on the gas to keep it on. But eventually it goes back to normal when I drive across town it runs smoothly every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says something about system 1 bank 2 lean or something. And it brings up a list of what the possible causes are, like a air leak, or fuel injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if anyone on here had the same problem as me, and would know what you really think it could be. Because from what the car does, it's like it loses power or pressure or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T08:51:05.800" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T12:02:53.220" Title="2001 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L hiccups badly after startup" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|p0171|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11484" CreationDate="2014-07-23T21:07:14.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If no leakage from the radiator and the A/C (if so equipped) is still working, there shouldn't be an issue. I would advise you to pull out any broke broken pieces of grill as well as dead bird, to include feathers. The can get trapped in the radiator and reduce cooling efficiency. Get the grill portion replaced as soon as possible to help prevent some other road debris or animal from getting through there where it will ultimately cause damage to your radiator or A/C condenser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T21:07:14.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11483" CreationDate="2014-07-23T21:11:44.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wiggled the wires and it restarted, I'd suggest you ensure all of the wires are firmly in place on the cap and on the spark plugs. Since it wouldn't actually start, you should pay close attention to the coil wire. If it were the spark plug wires it would probably start, but would run rough. Seeing as how it would not start at all, this might point to the coil wire, which would preclude spark from getting to any of the spark plugs and not allowing it to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T21:11:44.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11482" CreationDate="2014-07-23T21:23:24.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a carburetor issue, most likely caused by ethanol gas. Ethanol laced gas reeks havoc upon small engines. The easiest fix for it is to purchase a new carburetor for it, due to paying the price for a replacement carb outweighs the cost in time and frustration which will be brought upon you trying to rebuild it. I have tried to rebuild small engine carbs in the past with only limited success. Besides the cost of the rebuild kit, you will still have to take your time to get it running, if it ever will. New ones are relatively cheap online and very easy to obtain, especially for B&amp;amp;S engines. In the future use a product such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/STA-BIL-22211-Fuel-Stabilizer-8-oz/16879745&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sta-Bil&lt;/a&gt; which will treat the gas and make it so it won't do this again. Sta-Bil is a gas stabilizer which will keep the gas usable for up to two years. Without it, the gas is only good for about 30 days. The way it works is by not allowing the ethanol to absorb moisture from the air. The ethanol/water mixture is what causes the carbs little orifices to plug up and is near impossible to clean out without extraordinary means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T01:03:28.020" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T01:03:28.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2014-07-23T22:03:12.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Jonway Gator yy50qt-6 and had the same starting issues. I had to replace the rectifier which is located in the front of your bike, mounted just above the horn. Also, there are 2 glass fuses coming from your battery. If they are blown, the scooter will not start. I hope this information is useful to you good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6539" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T23:58:44.797" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T23:58:44.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11460" CreationDate="2014-07-24T00:41:24.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like one (or both) of your u-joints is (are) bad. If the u-joint has dried out and the needle bearings are dry, when they rotate as they are supposed to, they bind/release causing a pinging noise like you are describing (it reverberates through the hollow drive shaft). The reason you only hear it at lower speeds is because the road noise covers it at some point. Believe me when I say, it's still happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is pretty easy to see if this is the problem by taking your drive line down and manipulating the u-joint. If it is bad, it will either not want to move, or it will have a lot of crunchy feeling to it as you rock it back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing or inspecting a u-joint, it is important that you get the the drive shaft and differential yoke back in the same position you took it apart as ... This is easily accomplished by using a permanent marker, like a Sharpie, and marking a straight line from the yoke to the drive shaft. If you don't, an out of balance situation can occur. It doesn't happen all the time, but it can. Marking it and putting it back in the same position will save you having to move it 180 degrees after you've already installed it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you replace your u-joint with one which has a grease-zerk, ensure you put the zerk on the &lt;strong&gt;compression&lt;/strong&gt; side between the drive line yoke and the differential yoke. This is imperative as well, because if you don't, the u-joint will fail prematurely at the zerk. The zerk sits inside of a hole. When the zerk is on the compression side, stress is transmitted through the zerk from one side of the zerk hole to the other. When on the tension side, there forms a stress riser with nothing to support the zerk hole, so a crack can form and ultimate failure will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To discover what the compression side is, look at this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPREJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the zerk is the red thing protruding between cap 1 and 2 of the u-joint. The arrows denote the direction of the drive shaft as if you were looking down its length from the front of the car towards the rear differential. This next part might be confusing, so this is from the stand point of the rear u-joint. If the loops of your drive shaft yoke are on caps 1 &amp;amp; 3, while the yoke of the differential is on 2 &amp;amp; 4, then the zerk would be in the correct position to be on the compression side. There is another compression area between 3 &amp;amp; 4. There is a tension area between 1 &amp;amp; 4, as well as 2 &amp;amp; 3. If you are doing the u-joint at the front of the drive shaft, then the transmission yoke would be at the 1 &amp;amp; 3 position and drive shaft at the 2 &amp;amp; 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T00:41:24.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11491" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-24T09:08:01.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0350 is the error code given by OBD II when there is a problem with the ignition coil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2828" LastEditorUserId="2828" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T14:25:09.483" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T14:25:09.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-24T09:08:01.403" Score="0" Body="OBD II Error Code (Ignition coil)" OwnerUserId="2828" LastEditorUserId="2828" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T14:25:12.400" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T14:25:12.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11494" CreationDate="2014-07-24T09:18:51.217" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the BMW e36 come equipped with gearbox coolers, if not, can I install one. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6520" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T09:51:03.497" Title="Does my BMW e36 320i 1992 have a Gearbox cooler" Tags="|bmw|cooling-system|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11493" CreationDate="2014-07-24T09:51:03.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW do have trans coolers for their vehicles with auto transmissions. They are embedded in the cooling system radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T09:51:03.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2014-07-24T10:01:47.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Code P0171 is a pretty general code for 'engine running weak'. Running weak means too much air, or, not enough fuel. The main culprits are a loose or damaged vacuum hose, EGR valve staying open, EVAP system leaking air into the system, faulty fuel injector(s), or a leaking exhaust system. It does not seem to be the oxygen sensor to me because you have rough running from start-up. The oxygen sensor comes into play once the vehicle starts to warm up. To isolate the problem will need a scan and possibly a couple of systems tests to pinpoint the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T10:01:47.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:38:12.080" Score="4" ViewCount="84982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Sonata 2002 automatic which has just broken down. What happened is that while driving the engine suddenly stopped and the check engine light turned on. I attempted to start the engine but soon after it started it died again. The next time I start it, the engine just cranks but won't start at all. The next day I attempted to start and again the engine started the first time but failed soon afterward. After that it does not start at all. Would appreciate if someone can point me on what might be wrong? I know that an exact diagnosis cant be given but just curious to find out any possible things to look for and estimated costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;some more info I heard from another mechanic: There is no spark and no injector pulse. He believes it could be that the immobiliser is killing the spark. Not sure what that means and would appreciate if someone can give more info on what to expect and estimated costs if the above is true. Another interesting thing is that, occasionally, the engine starts but dies after a few seconds and then won't start at all for long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hyundai-forums.com/194-y2-ef-1989-2005-sonata/79525-engine-won-t-start-2-4-liter-2002-sonata.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;info&lt;/a&gt; here but cant seem to make much out of the discussion over there. The only thing that I got is that I am having exactly the same issue. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/car/2a7wq-2001-hyundai-sonata-spark-fuel-no-injector-pulse-cyl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; also looks similar to my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this mechanic just wont give me a fault code and one of the other mechanics told me that his computer is incompatible with my car. Moreover he has pointed me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keyfax-manchester.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; and told me to contact them and see if they can help me. I have no clue what to do now and I am not sure why he wants me to contact the company in the link. I will have to wait until Monday to speak to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can't fix or diagnose it myself and I think what I am looking for is some advice on what to expect from mechanic, estimated costs and how to deal with him so that I just don't get totally ripped of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1653" LastEditorUserId="1653" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T02:13:46.680" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T07:59:55.717" Title="Engine died while driving and won't start again" Tags="|engine|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:50:20.553" Score="2" ViewCount="15677" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be possible reasons that one of the four cylinders (the left or first one) is not working? It was working before, than it did not, then it did again and now not again. I was able to start the bike, but only the other 3 cylinders were firing, after driving few hundred meters, the bike went out. I guess it was flooding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I considered so far (updated list):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs (OK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable to the spark plugs (OK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is not wet in the corresponding slot for the spark plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is a spark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after cleaning the gas cap it works again. Maybe there was too little air going through, such that low pressure in the tank prevented that enough gas was used. I am not sure though, if this really solved the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could imagine that the gas petcock is not perfectly working&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it may be a problem with the carburetor, but I have no idea what to check for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(apologies for bad language, this is not my standard vocabulary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6540" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T03:36:50.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T03:36:50.533" Title="One cylinder not firing, GSX R 750 W" Tags="|motorcycle|sparkplugs|suzuki|carburetor|gsxr|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11500" CreationDate="2014-07-24T14:12:53.230" Score="1" ViewCount="1794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently drive a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helpfindmea.co.uk/cars/specs/fiat-punto-specifications-393/punto-hatchback-03-06-12-active-3dr-specifications-25980.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FIAT Punto 1.2 Active 3dr&lt;/a&gt; which is just over ten years old and sits at 68,000 miles. I've had the car for four years, and it's been serviced once during that period, when I got it, which was at 40,000 miles. I know I should have had it serviced since but it's a bit of a throwaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, I've recently decided to upgrade, and I've gone for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvocars.com/uk/all-cars/volvo-v40/specifications/pages/technical-spec.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volvo V40 D2 Powershift&lt;/a&gt; (D being diesel). I was tempted to go for the D3 or D4 but decided to go for the more economical D2. Now that I've placed the order, I'm having cold feet about whether or not I should have gone for the more powerful engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the Punto. It's got less power than my Grandma's motorised scooter. The specs say it should have 60 bhp (44 kw) at 5000 rpm, and 102 Nm of torque. The D2 is listed as having 115 bhp (84 kw) at 3600 rpm with 270 Nm of torque. The D3 150 bhp (110 kw) at 3500 rpm with 350 Nm of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I test drove both the D2 and D3 and found them both to be quite rapid, though I'm wondering exactly how quick the D2 with 115 bhp/270 Nm of torque will actually be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare it, I'm thinking about what my current Punto must be. It's ten years old and hasn't had a service in a while, so it surely can't be 60 bhp right now? How do small old cars like this lose power without servicing or with age? What would you expect a 10 year old petrol car to put out after all that time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lot's of questions I know, I'm not much of a petrol/diesel head!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T10:45:05.600" Title="Does engine performance decline over time, and if so, how much?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11496" CreationDate="2014-07-24T14:46:23.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I suggest getting your fuel pump checked out or replacing it... Usually this is the type of problem that starts out small and eventually gets to the point where you are at right now. Have you noticed recently that the engine seems to have less power at high rpms? Or that maybe it has even started dieing even while you are applying throttle under hard acceleration? Otherwise you may have some other problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T14:46:23.413" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2014-07-24T15:13:09.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, You should probably service your cars more than once every 4 years haha. Anyways, the declination in performance of the car over time is based on a lot of factors... but cannot really be calculated just on what you have said. Depending on how dirty your oil is, the state of the spark plugs, and the state of the engine from being abused like this, I would say there is most definitely a noticeable power loss. Depending on your usage, the more powerful engine may have been better or worse for you. If you intend to haul a lot of people or heavy materials, then the more powerful engine may have been the way to go, otherwise it shouldn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T15:13:09.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11507" CreationDate="2014-07-24T16:46:18.370" Score="2" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying a 2005 Mazda 3i. One of the problems with the car is that, when turning right, the turn signal does not return to neutral on its own, you have to do it manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What part does this problem correspond to? &#xA;How costly of a repair would it be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it can't be much, also if I don't have any experience fixing cars, but I'm generally smart enough to figure things out, would this be a repair I could do my self? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6543" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T06:55:12.873" Title="Turn signal not returning to neutral" Tags="|mazda|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T17:00:40.543" Score="2" ViewCount="25996" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son accidently poured some antifreeze into the place where the oil goes now the car runs with ticking when its idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6544" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T01:31:53.333" Title="What to do when antifreeze is in the oil casing" Tags="|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2014-07-24T18:10:25.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to drain the oil (let it drain as completely as possible) and put new oil inane run the engine. If you see it come back as a &quot;chocolate milk&quot; looking mixture, you need to change the oil again. This may take several tries (two or three) to get it all out. You need to change the filter with each attempt as well. The reason this is important is because the water in the oil will cause corrosion on the bearings, which will degrade them and ultimately allow them to fail. The sooner you get this done, the less damage you'll do to your bearings. The corrosion does take some time to happen. If it just happened and you get it done soon, you shouldn't run into any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T01:02:52.150" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T01:02:52.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T21:19:09.673" Score="0" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where exactly is the ECT sensor/control located on 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6545" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T01:41:45.260" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T01:41:45.260" Title="ECT control/sensor on 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo location" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11504" CreationDate="2014-07-25T00:03:04.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The connector for it is #8 so it puts it at the front drivers side of the engine if I'm looking at this diagram correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yN1dx.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T00:03:04.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11389" CreationDate="2014-07-25T05:03:51.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After compression checking and pulling off the valve covers it was obvious there was no traumatic damage. Rebuilding the carb helped (because after we solved it we had a huge surge in horsepower) but didn't solve the problem. It was only after we had called a local machine shop and described the problem just like above where they had mentioned &quot;are the gears on the distributor shredded?&quot;. It was that vouala moment where we had realized that we weren't checking the distributor close enough and that there was a problem with it. The gear that was driven by the camshaft had been forced loose and caused the pin that secured it to be sheared. It was only after replacing that pin and repairing that gear where the distributor was being driven that we were able to pinpoint the cause of the problem. &lt;strong&gt;It was timing all along.&lt;/strong&gt; But timing as a result of a stripped gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear itself is steel and the machinist mentioned that if it had been bronze that the gear would have been sheared for safety reasons forcing us to change the oil if so (all that bronze would have made it's way to the oil pan and through all the oil galleys). Our gear however was steel and had not been destroyed, only the pin which held the gear in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are back on the water and very pleased with all the extra work we did to the carb ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="6482" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T02:13:18.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T02:13:18.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2014-07-25T06:55:12.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your blinker module is broken. This is on the left side behind the steering wheel. There is some mechanical part connected to the steering wheel. If you turn blinker right, some little tooth came out of this module. Then if you turn the wheel back, it touch the tooth of the steering wheel and release to blinker to neutral. Maybe if you build up this module, you will see, what is wrong. The new on will cost something about 120 Euro in Germany. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T06:55:12.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11509" CreationDate="2014-07-25T07:41:03.453" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of purchasing an OBD-II adapter, that I can pair with my android phone.&#xA;I would like to be able to use it on different cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it advisable to go for something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSSTBLUETOOTH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PLX Kiwi&lt;/a&gt;, which is kind of costly, or get a generic one off Amazon for maybe 20$?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2490" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:00:46.780" Title="Which OBD II adapter to buy?" Tags="|honda|obd-ii|hyundai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11508" CreationDate="2014-07-25T08:29:22.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Torque recommends one of those $70 adapters, but I bought a generic one from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dhgate.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chinese equivalent of Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for $20 and it's working just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T08:29:22.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11496" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:00:05.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your vehicle to start you need fuel, ignition, and compression. You can check the ignition easily by holding one of the plug wires, after removing it from the spark plug, a short distance - a quarter of an inch - from the engine block. Have an assistant crank the engine. You should see a strong spark to the block if the ignition is working OK. The fuel side is best checked by having the system connected to a fuel pressure gauge. This is the safest option because of the fire risk inherent with the fuel. Some techs however do disconnect the fuel supply line and aim it into a container, or smother the end of the pipe with a large rag to catch any fuel squirted out whilst the engine is cranked. Gauge pressure, or otherwise will show the fuel is being delivered. Compression can be assumed by checking that the cambelt is in place and rotates with the engine, staying in place and travelling evenly. Electronically your problem could be crankshaft sensor faulty, cam shaft sensor faulty, fuel injector circuit(s), fuel pump relay, fuel pump, faulty fuel gauge(no fuel), ignition system wiring, ignition switch, immobiliser, or even your engines ECU. An obtained fault code would point towards the problem area, and say where the checks should start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T10:00:05.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:36:06.427" Score="1" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed recently that my Honda vibrates at low speeds/when you DON'T step hard on the throttle pedal. It doesn't do this every time and I have had my wheel balancing done and checked my engine seating. Any ideas guys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4847" LastEditorUserId="4847" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T14:25:36.210" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T15:43:50.800" Title="Honda accord 2008 vibrates intermittently while driving" Tags="|honda|accord|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:45:05.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle performance will drop off over time. To get the best out of your car, no matter what vehicle is, will require competent maintenance to ensure its safety and reliability. In passing, you have a legal, moral, and social obligation to make sure your vehicle is fit for the road before you even put the key in the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T10:45:05.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:48:26.990" Score="3" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a bunch of trucks in the workplace that drive inside the premises. I want to calculate their exact running time. Currently, we can capture engine hour data by tapping the signal of the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if the engines are left ON while the truck is standing? My new idea is to detect if the wheels are also rotating or not. I have read that wheel speed sensors can sense the speed of moving vehicles. Can these sensors be an answer to the problem at hand? Can I tap their signal too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6551" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T00:59:17.010" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T08:01:33.607" Title="Can I access the signal from the wheel speed sensors?" Tags="|computer|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11508" CreationDate="2014-07-25T11:00:46.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest offerings of OB2 to Android can be a useful quick look tool. With an Elm 327 interface to the diagnostic plug, and software such as Torgue Pro, they will give you fault codes and simulated gauges. iOBD2 is another good offering, and is supplied with specific software for specific vehicle makes. They do not go anywhere near in performance and range to garage repair equipment, so you should not lavish money on them, but rather treat them as a useful gadget. 'Swiss Army knife' springs to mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:00:46.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11511" CreationDate="2014-07-25T11:09:01.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine/gearbox mountings may be worn. Ignition coil(s) starting to fail. Accelerator pedal position sensor starting to wear. Fuel injector intermittant fault. There are many reasons more, so a check over at your repair shop would be recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:09:01.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11513" CreationDate="2014-07-25T11:13:37.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A data logger will record all or most of your 'sensors' for you to examine at leisure. For a vehicle with a standard sixteen pin DLC, something like the Launch CRecorder or similar, but check for compatability to your vehciles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:13:37.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11513" CreationDate="2014-07-26T00:46:27.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the wheel speed sensors can detect if the vehicle (or at least the specific wheel the sensor is tied to) is moving. On most vehicles you should be able to tie directly into the wheel speed sensor and detect the signal, while not causing any issues with the vehicle itself while in normal operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor itself is a standard sine wave orientation. It's either on or off and is predictable. If there is movement in the signal, there is movement in the wheel sensor and movement of the wheel which is attached to it. Depending on how old the vehicle is, it could be a two or three wire speed sensor. I believe both of them work basically the same, but the three wire sensor is going to be more accurate. It uses what is called the Hall Effect, where you have vehicle voltage as the base reading (using two of the wires), then the third wire picks up the signal. On the other side of the equation is the stator which has equidistance notches in it which pass by the sensor and causes the signal. In order to use it, you just need to figure out which is the signal wire and then tie into it to get the signal. If you have a device which can detect the Hz which is produced, you can calibrate against the speedometer or GPS device to figure out how fast the vehicle is moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T01:00:41.667" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T01:00:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-26T12:15:42.210" Score="3" ViewCount="50086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to remove the passenger seat to weld a hole in the floor. I disconnected the battery, the wires to the seat and removed it. After re-installing the seat and the battery , my air-bag light started flashing. I tried to re-set the computer  by battery disconnected and waiting 10 min. but it did nothing. I have active head restraints and air-bags in the seat.&#xA;2004 Nissan maxima&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T13:38:56.123" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T18:09:50.867" Title="air bag light after seat removal repair" Tags="|nissan|supplemental-restraint-system|maxima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11523" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:22:13.103" Score="4" ViewCount="133777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2011 Mazda CX7. When I first turn the car on I can see the A/C clutch being engaged, but after the car runs for bit, then clutch disengages. After a while it starts to engage for few seconds and than back off for about 10-15. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While A/C clutch is engaged, pressure gauge shows it to be on bottom side of green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have followed direction on bottle of A/C Pro to fill my unit. But it have not made any difference. It seems that sometimes it decides to start blowing slightly colder air while other times it just blows hot air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking it to Pep Boy's for diagnostics. It turned out to be a relay. Once relay was repaired it turned out that I overcharged the system. Now I taking it to service for evac and recharge. In the end $49 for diagnosis, $60 for evac and recharge, $40 for bottle of A/C pro. In the end I feel lucky to get system repaired for under $200. If I took it to get it diagnosed in the first place it would have cost me whole lot less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lesson Learned: Do not charge system unless you have a gauge to read both LOW and HIGH pressure.&lt;/strong&gt; Next time before I waste money on charging system I will buy the following gauge &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T15:05:20.763" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T00:00:20.120" Title="A/C clutch turns on and off frequently" Tags="|ac|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11520" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:37:10.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air bag system checks itself every time you turn on the ignition. If the air bag light was going out after 7 seconds every time you turned on the ignition before the welding was carried out but not afterwards, it suggests that the wires may have been burnt/damaged by the welding. Try the following before anything else. It is for resetting the airbag system without a service tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn ignition switch “ON”.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After “AIR BAG” warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, and starts flashing, turn ignition switch “OFF” within 1 second. DO NOT SWITCH IT TO LOCK, SWITCH IT TO ACC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait more than 3 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 1 to 3 two times. Perform 3 times in total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn ignition switch “ON”. SRS is now in Diagnosis mode.&#xA;In diagnosis mode, you’re going to hope the light flashes slowly.2 seconds off, 3 seconds on, and repeats.If your light does this, this means that the computer detected a previous error that hasn’t been erased.This is good. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If “AIR BAG” warning lamp now operates 2 secs off 3 secs on, turn ignition switch “OFF” to reset from Diagnosis mode and to erase the memory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn ignition “ON”. “AIR BAG” warning lamp should operate like normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T00:58:16.893" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T00:58:16.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11521" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:58:03.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description points to a gas leak, or a control electronics fault. You need to have your AirCon system checked over and possibly re-charged by a service quality machine. The AirCon can switch itself on and off intermitantly when you have a faulty resistor pack/thermostat, faulty track on your Accelerator position switch, faulty Hot-Cold control, faulty system pressure switches, compressor clutch, or associated relays and wiring. The way to go is an AirCon system scan to isolate the electrical fault(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T14:58:03.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11496" CreationDate="2014-07-27T05:26:30.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the above is true (no spark and no injector pulse), then it could be caused by any combination of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Key Immobilizer faulted (unlikely unless you're using a non-standard key or bypassed it for a remote starter or some crazy electrical nonsense). If it is this, to replace the immobilizer unit and/or keys could be around $300 or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank Angle / Crank Position / Cam Angle / Cam Position sensor(s). These tell the ECU where the engine is which in turn controls the ignition and injectors. Given that the engine then started, but died again, this is somewhat likely (some will run until warm and die). The sensors themselves are cheap (~$40 or so each), but putting them in will cost you a bit if you can't do it yourself. The difficulty varies wildly based on where the manufacturer decided to locate them on a given engine, and what you have to take off to get to them, but I'd estimate in the neighborhood of $200 - $500.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECU went bad. Since it then started again and died again, if it were the ECU it would likely be due to overheated components, likely electrolytic capacitors. Estimate: $1,000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring issues / shorts. If something is interfering or shorting with any of the above items (immobilizer, cam/crank sensors, or ECU) then the result will be similar. This can get extremely time consuming to chase down, and thus expensive. Indeterminate amount to fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is operating on the presumption that the information is correct (NO spark + NO injector pulse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a broader sense, it sounds like there is a communication breakdown between this shop/mechanic/business. Call AAA or your insurance company and get it towed somewhere that you can trust and will treat you better / communicate with you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T05:26:30.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2014-07-27T09:42:28.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus/Toyota have a machine that flushes all of the lubrication system. It is fitted to the vehicle by a hose and adaptor placed at the sump plug hole. A second adaptor is placed in place of the oil filter, again with hose. When connected up and running it flushes the system with fluid, then gas, and then oil. It was devised primarily for their hybrid vehicles, because of their particular engine usage. Other non-Lexus/Toyota prestige garages sell the flushing operation as part of a service enhancement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T09:42:28.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11520" CreationDate="2014-07-27T13:53:17.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these directions for resetting the SRS after the dash light starts blinking. It is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/maxima-airbag-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the driver’s door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the rubber covered button located low on the B pillar, a button which is pressed by the door when the door is closed. This is the Driver’s Door Switch (DDS).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition from OFF to ON.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the DDS at least 5 times within 7 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition OFF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the driver’s door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the airbag warning lamp is still on (or still flashing), there is a fault in the Supplemental Restraint System which must be diagnosed and repaired. This is a job for your local friendly Nissan dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure a reset will fix your issue, as I doubt (though don't know for sure) you have caused any permanent damage to your system by disconnecting the seat harness. I post this because it is quite different than what has been posted already and I found it in several places on the web. Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T13:53:17.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:07:23.053" Score="12" ViewCount="99211" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I get a rear view mirror button off the windshield if it was put on upside down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6556" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T23:19:24.000" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T22:19:22.607" Title="How can I remove the rearview mirror button off my windshield that I just put on upside down?" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11527" CreationDate="2014-07-27T16:50:57.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these instructions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5246232_remove-adhesive-rear-mirror.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eHow&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use the blow dryer or heat gun to warm the mirror mount right where it attaches to the windshield. You are applying this heat to soften the adhesive underneath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Test the mirror every so often while you are heating it by trying to gently move the mirror slightly back and forth. Once you feel movement, continue to apply heat and increase the force a little at a time. Work the mirror back and forth and it will release from the windshield, leaving a fair amount of adhesive behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Warm the adhesive left on the windshield again. For thick patches of adhesive, wrap the fishing line around your fingers as if you were getting ready to use dental floss and press your fingers up tight against the windshield on either side of the remaining adhesive. Work the line under the top edge, and move the line back and forth with downward pressure. The line will cut through the adhesive and remove all but a little residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Apply the adhesive remover to the residue and use the razor scraper to gently scrape off the rest of the adhesive. Wipe the area with a rag and more adhesive remover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Clean the area with glass cleaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look fairly comprehensive. You may want to put the mirror on the mount, even though it's upside down, so as to have something to hold on to. Do not apply too much force to it, though, as you run the risk of breaking it. Also, ensure you remove all of the glue off of the mount, as new glue will not want to stick to it if you don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T01:37:26.980" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T01:37:26.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-28T00:35:08.340" Score="8" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Results for: so I have a motorcycle and use the Optimate1 battery tender. One day while using the tender I left and came back 6 hours later to find the Optimate still charging my battery. The battery was very hot so I unplugged right away. I let the battery cool off and the next day I started the bike and the battery was fine. I used my Volt meter and the battery was holding a charge of 14.5 Volts and when I started the bike it did not drop below 9 Volts, and when the bike was running it puts out 16 Volts so I know the battery is being charged. Since the Optimate overcharged my battery it won't go into the green maintain mode - It just keeps charging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the Optimate back to the shop thinking it was the charger, but they hooked it up to 2 batteries and it went to maintain within a minute like it used to for me before this happened. Why won't the Optimate go to maintain when the battery is fully charged when I test it with my Volt meter? Is the battery bad possibly? And if so why does it give a full charge and still fire up the bike fine? I'm not sure what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6558" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T20:11:19.437" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T20:14:03.270" Title="battery tender keeps charging" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-28T02:19:43.200" Score="0" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;My SRT-4 is putting out the proper boost and pulling vacuum, but it's not pulling the right amount. When I bought the car in 2008 it was pulling about 20hg, but it sat for three years and now it is only pulling 10hg. I have looked at every hose and line and didn't see anything wrong. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6560" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T23:16:50.827" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T07:09:56.040" Title="Dodge Neon SRT-4" Tags="|dodge|performance|neon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11530" CreationDate="2014-07-28T07:50:59.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you say all the hoses and clamps are in good order, then the only other things that come to mind are the wastegate and exhaust manifold. Either the wastegate is opening too soon, or the exhaust manifold is leaking from the gasket or a crack. This would mean that either you lose boost too early, or you never get enough boost in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you're lucky, it's simply a case of having a blocked intercooler (bits of debris, a colony of mice, SPIDERS!) or a dirty air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; unlucky, it could be that your turbo decided that it's the perfect time to retire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T07:09:56.040" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T07:09:56.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12730" CreationDate="2014-07-28T08:57:37.563" Score="1" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a full freeflow system fitted to my Opel/Vauxhall Astra Turbo Coupe. Along with this, I had a stage 1 STO map done to take full advantage of the new exhaust characteristics. At any rate, I asked the tuner whether I could use the Torque Pro app I had on my Galaxy Tab to read boost, temperature, timing advance, etc from the OBD port like I did before. He said that attempting this would corrupt the map. He also stated that the STO software he flashed to the ECM would report false readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know the answer is reasonably obvious to someone who is a software developer and knows a bit about the OBD protocol, but rather safe than sorry. It seems the guy thinks I want to reverse-engineer his map and sell it or customise it even further, so talking to him is like talking to a brick wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to make the STO software (or any software loaded onto OEM ECU's) report false readings on the OBD port? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the STO software (or other software) be used to trash a map if it detects&#xA;communication on the OBD port?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had issues with reading stuff from the OBD port when the car was still standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T02:01:46.983" Title="Can reading from the ODB port interfere with a custom STO map?" Tags="|obd-ii|tuning|software|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11532" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:47:45.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a CAN App programmer so I would like to share a bit of my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can report false. It's even very simple. Just watch for messages you don't like and then report error. But what is the point to implement such a stuff? Then you will not be longer able to read error or some other parameters by your own.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also yes, if he is trying to protect his software, but why this way? As a programmer I would do something like backlist for commands like: read/write of ECU data, so the other things like reading and erasing errors and reading parameters could work as before. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is, even with modified STO you should be able to read your stuff (with your galaxy tab) like you did before/standard car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T09:47:45.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11527" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:57:46.720" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Applying heat to one side, interior, of a vehicles windscreen runs the very real risk of cracking the windscreen, because of the differances in expansion. The more usual way to remove a stuck on mirror is too use a length of wire. Introduce the wire under one corner of the mirror and pull it side to side to cut through the adhesive and any patch used. Finish off by cleaning off any residue adhesive. This is the same method used by professional outfits to remove whole bonded windscreens when they are too be re-used. Using heat is is a very risky business unless you are able to control the temperature of the whole screen and should only be considered as alast resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T09:57:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11532" CreationDate="2014-07-28T10:11:52.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using 'logic bombs' or other types of 'seeds' is fair and reasonable to protect any particular piece of software from being copied. If software is made easy or open to re-distribute you will find a lot of developers going out of business. The methods you ask in your question point to good ways to prevent the software being lifted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T10:11:52.003" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-28T18:29:51.340" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;2012 Mazda 3 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use cruise at every opportunity. I leave the system &quot;on&quot; permanently, then engage the accele/resume/cancel buttons as needed. Does leaving the system in the &quot;ready&quot; mode like this cause any harm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T19:21:56.993" Title="Cruise Control Master Switch" Tags="|mazda|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11537" CreationDate="2014-07-28T19:12:43.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be safe logically and based on personal experience. Most cruise control systems use engine vacuum to pull on the throttle cable and the vacuum is always there when the engine is on anyways, so there is nothing mechanical running behind your system switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 Mazda 3's have either electronic throttles or cable. The cruise control system with an electronic throttle is pure software and just uses the same throttle control hardware that is used when you mess with the accelerator. So you should be good to go either way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have left my system switch on for the last 9 years in my civic, and passed 312k miles this way with no problems to my cruise control system; or any electrical system problems for that matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastEditorUserId="6565" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T19:21:56.993" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T19:21:56.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2014-07-28T19:52:08.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the cause of this is an expansion valve that will not open up fully because it is stuck. Your system looks like the second link that Paulster2 linked. The valve is way under the passenger dash and really painful to mess with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't live with it as is, I would ensure there is sufficient freon in your system (probably is based on blowing cold initially). Then assuming good freon level, discharge the system, replace the accumulator/drier cheap 20-30 bucks,  possibly clogged, and easy to replace. It's just behind the driver side headlight, swap old for new and then vacuum the system and refill with freon; cross fingers that it works now. If not, the next step would be replacing the expansion valve, which is a pain and not likely something you want to attempt yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T19:52:08.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2014-07-29T04:16:00.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes in theory it could be done. But getting the mechanical components to work would be difficult and probably result in an awkward and bulky addition to your car. I suspect the end result would be an expensive and unreliable disappointment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably be easier to change the entire gearbox for automatic or a sequential box than try and adapt a manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you're going to need access to a workshop with a lot of tools and machinery. You'll have to fabricate parts. And there would be lot of work finding parts that could move a gear shift and clutch the right speed the right distance with enough force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &quot;not really a car&quot; person I'm struggling to comprehend why you would want to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T04:23:44.703" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T04:23:44.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11543" CreationDate="2014-07-29T08:19:29.500" Score="4" ViewCount="26645" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I accidentally left my Hyundai i30's headlights on for two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to start the car the battery was very weak at first and I had no power in acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I turned off the car and restarted it. I drove it around the block a couple of times and seemingly it was at normal power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I expect when I turn the car on tomorrow? Is it likely that I've caused permanent damage to the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6568" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T01:54:45.440" Title="Would leaving the headlights on for two hours permanently damage the battery?" Tags="|battery|hyundai|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2014-07-29T08:28:40.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you got a low point discharge, your battery is damaged. Some chemical processes can not be reconverted from that point. If you drive around for some time, your battery will get warm and have a little bit more charge then cold. That could be enough to start the car once again. You don't loose anything if you try to charge you battery. Maybe you are lucky. Otherwise if your car does not start tomorrow, you will need a new battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The border for deep discharge is about 20% of the maximal charge. If you reach this level ( under 20 % ) a lot of lead was resolved in acid and your pH-value decreases. That brings you a sulphation of the active mass and causes a capacity fade. Your plates corrode. Lead sulfate becomes crystalized and can not be transformed to acid anymore.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T22:25:08.610" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T22:25:08.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11546" CreationDate="2014-07-29T09:30:01.847" Score="4" ViewCount="9367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mercedes E350 2009. When I hold steering wheel straight, car drives straight. When I lift my hands off,  car and steering wheel tend to turn right. What could be the reason here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6569" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:42:34.123" Title="My car's steering wheel rotates to right when I lift my hands off" Tags="|mercedes-benz|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11556" CreationDate="2014-07-29T09:37:44.990" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mercedes E350 2009. On driver's side, AC is not as cold as the passenger's side (second and back). Also, AC is much colder when air intake is set to inside but every five minutes it disconnects and sets air intake to outside. How serious is the problem here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6569" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:52:45.090" Title="AC on driver's side is bad." Tags="|ac|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11544" CreationDate="2014-07-29T10:07:40.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that can cause this - the simplest being the road itself! If you are on a cambered road, the car will want to pull towards the edge of the road...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming it's a stronger pull than that, your next suspect is the tracking (wheel alignment) - if this is out it will cause it to pull. Most decent tyre fitters will be able to check this for you, and adjust it for a fee. It's worth doing this every so often anyway, e.g. each time you fit new tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't fix it, check your brakes - if one is rubbing, it will slow the car on that side, and so cause it to pull across. After a drive, bring the back of your hand towards the centre of each wheel - make sure the right hand one isn't hotter than the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also have problems with electric power steering, but I don't think Mercedes use that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T10:07:40.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2014-07-29T12:58:09.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how deeply-discharged the battery was.  If the battery is high enough capacity two hours may not harm it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter batteries (used to start automobiles) are designed differently from deep-discharge (or &quot;marine&quot;) batteries.  (For traditional flooded acid batteries) starter batteries are designed to provide lots of current to turn an engine, and as such the lead plates are more like a mesh to maximize contact area with the acid.  This also means that the more you discharge it, the more the plates disintegrate.  Starter batteries do best if never discharged too much.  (Deep-discharge batteries cannot provide large amounts of power quickly but can be drawn on until almost empty - their plates are solid and do not disintegrate as much if drawn close to empty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the alternator of a vehicle generates enouogh electricity to both charge the battery (if the engine RPMs are high enough - idling isn't enough) and fire the spark plugs.  If the car won't start reliably the next day (assuming you drove around at a moderate speed for some time) then the battery may be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned, best to go to a mechanic who can load-test the battery with proper testing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some pulsing chargers that claim to reverse sulfation but they typically cost much more than ordinary chargers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6570" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T12:58:09.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9932" CreationDate="2014-07-29T13:46:44.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a sticking A/C compressor clutch, with the exception of hissing from passenger side, I would think from driver side. But this is an easy check and worth doing. Your compressor might be turning with the engine and the hissing noise is the scraping of metal on metal down in the lower left(when sitting in the car) of your engine bay. Honda uses cables rather than vacuum for the vent and temp selectors. Some parts are fully electronic with little motors and stuff. So no hissing from vacuum is going to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your A/C off and engine on, look down at the compressor and see if both the clutch plate and pulley are spinning. Use a flashlight and keep your fingers out of the belts. The plate is on the end of the pulley (coming away from the engine) and is about 1 cm thick with 3 bolts sticking out of it an additional .5 cm. The clutch plate normally will be motionless when the A/C is off. If motionless is not the case, fix it before you start melting things, the induction coil (magnet) will go first, compressor second. There are tiny shims that can be added between the clutch plate and pulley to increase the clearance and fix this problem, should it be the problem. Good luck, and if you don't have time, you can take the A/C belt off. I am pretty sure that the A/C has a dedicated belt in your car, but check before doing it of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All information from personal experiences with my Civic and Sister's Accord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T13:46:44.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11561" CreationDate="2014-07-29T13:54:50.400" Score="2" ViewCount="3660" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side of the question is whether a metric wrench set is sufficient for cars from European/Japanese/Korean makers (but, of course, I can't ask that question here lest I break the one-question per post rule :^).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T15:43:45.247" Title="Is leaving either a metric or an imperial wrench set in a GM vehicle sufficient for all (most) emergency repairs?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2014-07-29T15:23:08.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving the headlamps on for a couple of hours will not do any signicant damage to a car battery. Re-charging the battery overnight would normally put it back to  fully charged. 'Smart' alternators used on todays vehicle will also charge your battery. When discharging, the plates of the battery become sulphated. Charging the battery removes this sulphation. If the battery grids and plates are not physically damaged, a charging and discharging of the battery many times over at a very low amperage will recover any battery. In theory you only ever have to have one battery for the life of your vehicle. The time and effort required to recover a very sulphated battery is not really an option when compared against a simple replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:23:08.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2014-07-29T15:36:38.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally batteries that are damaged from excessive discharge will be protected by a discharge monitoring circuit that prevents discharge beyond a certain point, however these circuits themselves draw a small amount of power, which means that even with such a circuit, a battery could be damaged if left undercharged for an extended period of time (weeks, not just a single day). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery should be fine, however driving it around the block may not be much RPM for the alternator to charge the battery back up - Ideally you would charge the battery with a battery charger, however you could also put the car in neutral with the engine on, hand-brake on, and let the engine run at 3000 RPM or so for a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6574" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:36:38.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11544" CreationDate="2014-07-29T15:42:34.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle should be checked over by a Mercedes mechanic. The front suspension and the rear suspension are both adjustable and can also be susceptable to damage, bushes, tie rods, ball joints, wheel rims, tyres. In many instances the correct service tools are required to carry out an effective repair or adjustment. There are several versions of the 2009 E350 and some do have electric PAS. It should be borne in mind that a small amount of control applied to the steering wheel would be covering a much larger effort at the steering components. The steering also requires setting with a scanner, as it ties in with the ABS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:42:34.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11545" CreationDate="2014-07-29T15:52:45.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have a scan on your AirCon electrics, as well as an AirCon service check over with a service grade/garage machine. Your problem could be with one or the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T15:52:45.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2014-07-29T16:11:44.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles use a wide range of tools for service work. Most countries in the world use the metric system of measurement, including the USA in many cases, yet there remains a legacy of the old Imperial system still around. A set of wrenches in the boot will not even get close to what you may need. If you have a particular job in mind you could carry the tools to carry out a repair - but how are you supposed to know the job will need to be done. A typical mechanic in a prestige main dealership in the UK, using typically Snap-On tools (favoured), will have a tool kit running into twenty to thirty thousands of pounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T16:11:44.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11578" CreationDate="2014-07-29T17:49:41.677" Score="6" ViewCount="65533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Call me late, but I just found out about this whole &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=plasti%20dip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'PlastiDip'&lt;/a&gt; thing last night, even after doing some &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8548/diy-how-to-create-a-car-paint-booth-whats-involved&quot;&gt;diligent research&lt;/a&gt; on diy car painting a while back. It seems there's a significant following of people who paint their entire &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt; with this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the majority of paint jobs I've seen are okay, and nothing I'd do on the ficticious Rolls Royce in my garage, there were some that did in fact look good enough to forego a traditional paint job and go this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what are the pros and cons of plasti dipping a whole car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T03:56:15.867" Title="Is a PlastiDip paint job a viable alternative for a real paint job?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-29T18:04:04.790" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;someone put sugar in my tank I had it dropped and clean but when they put it back together when you drive at 35-40 mph, it vibrates underneath the car what do you think it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6576" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:49:49.370" Title="My Chrysler 300" Tags="|fuel-system|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11559" CreationDate="2014-07-29T18:52:18.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I would check is the tank loose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so tighten the mounting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design it should be pretty easy to jack up the car and check how loose the tank is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T18:52:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2014-07-29T21:59:56.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question: GM cars are primarily (if not entirely) Metric these days (probably since the mid-to-late 90's). The Korean/Japanese/European cars are all going to be Metric as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get a small ratchet set which contains both SAE and Metric sockets in it. If you are serious about outfitting your car, you'll also want to get a set of wrenches (spanners) in both Metric and SAE, a set of screw drivers (a couple different sizes/lengths of flat and Philips), a pair of slip joint pliers, and maybe an adjustable wrench. All of these can be purchased through various means (online/in-store), but are very easy to obtain. Don't go spending a ton of money on tools. Here in the States (not knowing where you live), you can purchase these at any Sears, Lowe's, Home Depot, or even Harbor Freight for a relatively low price. All of these stores offer lifetime warranties on their tools, so replacement upon breakage is guaranteed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said ... it may make you feel better to have a set of tools in your vehicle, by all means get them. In most cases though, today's modern cars are going to be giving you hints that something is going wrong with the vehicle, such as a trouble light. In this case, you'll more than likely be able to safely drive it to a shop or home to get things sorted. Usually if it breaks down, there is nothing you are going to be able to do with it on the side of the road, so having the tools with you is not going to do you much good. About the only tools I take with me is a good set of jumper cables and a cell phone. I've used the jumpers many times to help other people with their dead batteries. Beyond that, the cell phone is for the occasions when I am broke down, which doesn't happen very often, but can happen to anyone. Other than that, I like to text and drive ... J/K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T21:59:56.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11586" CreationDate="2014-07-29T22:47:33.490" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a bluetooth OBD adapter compatible with &lt;code&gt;Hyundai Sonata 2002 2.0 Automatic UK&lt;/code&gt;. I don't know much about cars and hence ending up asking for help. I would appreciate if someone can inform me where to get this adapter and how to know which type of adapters will fit in my car. I am also not sure if my car is OBD compatible and if there are some other types of standards that I need to look for. I also don't know if my car has ELM327 interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am googling around and I will carry on doing so but as of now I can't find anything useful or maybe I am not looking for the right thing so any help will be much appreciated. Will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Small-Elm327-Obd-ii-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B0076EBRYG/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1653" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T21:17:59.883" Title="Where and how to find compatible OBD bluetooth adapter" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-29T23:25:00.700" Score="0" ViewCount="1779" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature gauge in my 1996 Mazda 626 has been dead for as long as I have had the car (years). I never bothered to fix it because the car seemed fine. I recently had an issue where I discovered a crack in my radiator when steam started billowing from the hood. An accurate temperature gauge would have been helpful in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the radiator myself. Now I'm interested in addressing the temperature gauge. Considering the temperature gauge has been broken long before I had a problem, I assume that the gauge is faulty and not the cooling system thermostat (though I haven't tested the thermostat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's involved in testing/fixing the gauge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2231" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T21:24:49.050" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T19:30:37.287" Title="How to repair a temperature gauge?" Tags="|mazda|gauges|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11568" CreationDate="2014-07-30T01:36:13.697" Score="2" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Toyota Corona with a D4 engine. The engine is giving me trouble and seems to be burning all the oil. It burnt through in about a week (after topping it up completely), and I say burn because there are no leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its completely useless at the moment and it blew out a whole lot of smoke as I was driving home, before I realized what was happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic took a look and he says its an old engine and it must just be consuming it and that there might be an issue with the transmission? considering the smoke? (not entirely sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that, this car has been giving me trouble from the get go, and this is the 2nd engine on it. The previous one blew out on me for no apparent reason (had done 115k kms) and the one on there now had supposedly done 123k kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what could be wrong? I dont know much about cars but could it just be worn rings around the piston heads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a clue, any speculations would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:24:41.837" Title="1999 Toyota Corona burning through oil in a week" Tags="|engine|toyota|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11542" CreationDate="2014-07-30T01:54:45.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've done SOME damage, but probably not a great deal of damage. You've shortened your battery life somewhat by contributing to its sulfation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some irreversible sulfation is inevitable in lead-acid batteries. Some is reversible, some is not. The deeper a (lead-acid) battery is discharged, the greater the amount of irreversible sulfation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem is that lead sulfates are fragile, and drop away from the plates, building up as conductive sludge at the bottom of the battery. If it builds up high (deep) enough, it'll short-circuit one cell and your nominal 12V battery will irreversibly become a nominal 10V battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chargers that claim to remove sulfation have some limited capability of doing so, but not to any great degree. I see them as a waste of money - they may increase the battery's expected service life of seven years to eight. Or to seven and a half. More likely, if used often, they'll overcharge a battery and result in boiling off some of the liquid that you can no longer replace because your battery now has no refill caps. In the old days, we could add distilled water or battery acid, whichever was lacking at the time (depending upon the charge state), and adjust the battery's specific gravity to ideal at the fully charged state. We even had the capability of washing the sludge out of the bottom of the battery, if we were adventurous. Yes, I've done it. Now you have fewer items on your menu - you've traded your freedom for security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tomorrow, provided your drove your car for some fairly decent distance today to recharge your battery, your car should start normally... unless it was already in its last six weeks of life. Doubtful. Someday you'll need to replace it - that day will be earlier than it could have been, because of your discharge, but you probably won't notice. You probably won't even remember this event by that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T01:54:45.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11497" CreationDate="2014-07-30T02:50:17.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description is making me question your diagnosis so far, in terms of is it one cylinder affected or all. Because a GSXR should be able to run (badly) on 3 cylinders, and cleaning the fuel cap shouldn't make a difference to just one cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description i'd start by replacing the fuel and ensuring it flows freely to the carburettors. (is it possible that it has old/dirty fuel?) disconnect the fuel line to the carb and drain it into a bottle and see if it runs freely. Drain the carb float bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're certain that this just affects one cylinder then i'd suggest you remove the carbs and clean/inspect and look for blockages. Make sure you can blow air through each fuel line, jet etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the bike run on that cylinder at all? (at idle? half throttle? full throttle?) does choke make a difference? Those things might indicate a blocked jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone made any changes to any of the adjustments on the carb? screws etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few microfiche diagrams to help you identify parts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/#/l/suz/50d3c45ff870021958f27633/1993-gsx-r750w-parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/#/l/suz/50d3c45ff870021958f27633/1993-gsx-r750w-parts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T02:59:48.597" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T02:59:48.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11497" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:02:24.723" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peter's on it, all the way across the board. If all those checks test out, then check for a sticky valve on that one cylinder. In fact, adjust valve lash on all cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:02:24.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11564" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:08:17.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;COULD be worn rings, COULD be bad valve stem seals, COULD be blown head gasket. They all require removing the head, which is easier to do if the engine's sitting on the shop floor. Rings require that the engine be pulled all the way apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did your mechanic run a compression test? That'll tell more about this problem than anything else will. Worn rings/cylinders will give you low compression, worn valve stem seals will not. Head gasket might or might not change the compression. At 123 kms, your motor should still have very good compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:08:17.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11563" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:10:34.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a '96? Try swapping out the temperature sending unit (on the engine, probably on the intake manifold. If that doesn't fix the problem... and if it were mine, I'd buy an aftermarket gauge and find a place to mount it. That's much easier than fixing the temperature gauge in an instrument cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:10:34.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:31:29.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends entirely on the vehicle and how you drive it. If the vehicle is reasonably recent, and not all beat up, and you don't beat it up, then the tool you may need MOST for emergency repairs is an eight-pound sledgehammer. For real. To take that danged tight-fitting wheel off the hub when you have a flat tire on the road. And a 4x4, of course, so you don't destroy the wheel with the sledgehammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle is pretty worn out, and especially if you're rough on vehicles, then you'd do well to have a pretty well-stocked toolkit in the vehicle with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle and your driving style fall somewhere in the middle, then something between the sledgehammer and the SnapOn charge account will suit you better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And... it also depends upon who might be called upon to use those wrenches you propose. I know a lot of people whose best use for wrenches is as props to hold up the &quot;Help!&quot; sign in the window. I know other people who can practically rebuild a bulldozer with a Leatherman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of problems do you anticipate that might require tools in the first place? Mull on that for a moment while I type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might... need to tighten battery clamps. 12mm or 1/2&quot; end wrench. Battery brush. You might... need to replace a radiator hose (pretty unlikely these days, but you never know. For this you'll need a screwdriver or two. Pick 'em up at the parts place that sold you the hose. You won't be doing THAT with an end wrench. You might... blow a serpentine fan belt. 3/8&quot;-drive ratchet and 3&quot; extension to loosen the tensioner, no other tools. You might... blow a power steering hose. Crowfoot fitting wrenches to fit your longest 3/8&quot; drive ratchet - you will NEVER get those hoses off with an end wrench. You might... burn up an alternator. You'll get pretty close with a set of end wrenches plus a ratchet to get that dang serpentine fan belt off &amp;amp; back on. You might... burn up a starter motor or its solenoid. NOW you can use your wrenches, at least until you need to get the little wires off the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How likely is any of that stuff? When's the last time it happened to you? Much more likely is an electronic (sensor or controller) failure of some sort - you're not going to fix that on the road, no matter what you have for tools. When's the last time you even had a flat tire? Been a long time for me, so I leave the sledgehammer at home. In fact, the last two times I've helped other people change a tire, I had to SawzAll their spares out from under the vehicle - they were rusted in place, never had been touched before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you really anticipate a bad battery connection? A blown alternator? Radiator hose? Serpentine belt? Really? Are you really ready to deal with any of these things on the side of the Interstate, hurrying to get it done before the tow truck gets there (the state police will call them without asking you)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't carry tools any more. When I start driving my 1970 GMC full-time, I'll carry a few more tools... but not many, and probably specifically for some problem I anticipate having. On that truck, it's realistic that I could swap an alternator, change a belt, replace a starter motor or a radiator hose on the side of the Interstate in the pouring rain in the dark. Or a fuel pump. With three wrenches and a screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:31:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11559" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:35:40.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is that all they did? Sugar in your tank? Are you sure they did nothing else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a rear-wheel drive car, right? I think you may have lost a driveshaft balance weight. Coincidental. Unless... the vandal also loosened your lug nuts or u-joint nuts, either of which could make a car vibrate unpredictably at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:35:40.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11558" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:38:12.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the stuff as the manufacturer intended. I've watched it peel off tool handles. There's NO way it's going onto my vehicle as a finish paint job, not even my lawn mower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:38:12.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:42:13.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did gap that plug correctly, right? According to the manufacturer, at least? If you're not sure, pull it back out &amp;amp; regap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T04:42:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:43:42.783" Score="1" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis, the blower just started working on only two speeds, high and low.  Recently the blower suddenly quit working altogether and it was the resister.  What's the best take on this problem; could it be as simple as the fan switch?  (The system is the auto climate control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6580" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:15:03.863" Title="A/C Fan Speeds Working on High and Low only on 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis LS" Tags="|ac|mercury|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11579" CreationDate="2014-07-30T06:04:01.450" Score="2" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my eyes on my childhood dream, Yamaha TZR 125.&#xA;But, as it turns out,  this motorcycle doesn't have any type of fuel meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KR1cr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c2/Yamaha_TZR_125_1991_cockpit.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And,  I'm pretty sure,  it doesn't have any sensor for it too.. &#xA;So,  my question is,  is there a way to add some sort of,  custom made or buyd,  fuel meter to this motorcycle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6582" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T21:38:49.597" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:37:49.820" Title="Fuel meter on Yamaha TZR 50/125" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T07:07:16.710" Score="0" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't my left tail light work on my  2000 Grand caravan.  I have Changed the bulb. That didn't fix the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6583" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T10:33:22.987" Title="Tail-lights not working" Tags="|electrical|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11558" CreationDate="2014-07-30T07:14:10.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did plastidip on a lot of things and my car, so I have a little bit of experience with it. Plastidip is not an alternativ for the real paint job at all. You need a good painted car to make plastidip looks good (same color, no scratches, bright color). The problem is the very low drown of plastidip. With the white car you can do whatever you want. On the black one you need thousands of layers to see the color you want. Also the good gloss effect is very hard to get. My yellow one holds only 1 year. After the winter I got some stains and I removed all the stuff (also not so easy as you think). Car wrapping is for me the better alternativ then plastidip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T07:14:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2014-07-30T07:39:42.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not do that. To do the real one is a lot of work to do. Open the tank, find the swimmer, do and seal a hole, find modules to regulate the swimmer and then the right fuel meter. It's also pretty danger. Maybe you will find an other tank with a fuel meter in it and right module for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T07:39:42.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2014-07-30T08:18:18.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were going on a long road trip in my Opel (which is a GM brand), I always take at least the following along:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Adjustable wrenches. One big and one small. Saves space and can fit any size nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a set of allen keys. They're used to undo things like your seats, some engine components, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a set of torx keys. They're like allen keys but with star heads. Same as with allen keys, but on some cars you need a torx key to undo your dashboard or instrument cluster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a very sharp knife. For cutting, obviously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bottle of water. For the radiator or for when you need to wait 8 hours for help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 feet/2 meters of radiator hose. To replace a burst hose. You can use radiator hoses for non-radiator duty, but you can't use non-radiator hoses for radiator duty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a couple of bungie chords. For tying stuff down, not jumping off bridges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel spanner. For spannering a wheel ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a set of screwdrivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short trips I can forego the water bottle, radiator hose and bungie chords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you may also want to drive around with a couple of spare bulbs. They cost less than a candybar per set and could save you lots of money in fines. If you're paranoid like me, you may even want to have set of replacement headlight bulbs. They're a bit expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a couple of nights in hospital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the cool factor, you can get yourself a bluetooth OBD2 adapter and an app like Torque Pro for android (there is something similar for Windows Phone 8 and iOS devices) which will allow you to see any fault codes reported by your car's onboard diagnostics system. Anytime your Check Engine Light goes on, the app can be used to identify what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T09:31:30.967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T09:31:30.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11577" CreationDate="2014-07-30T10:47:56.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, your new bulb should be in good working order. Just to make sure swop it with the matching bulb on the other side of the vehicle which you know is definitely working. If this bulb now operates in the first lamp assembly you now know the problem.  Turn your ignition on off when you check the bulb for working as some vehicles use this as a reset, also check any line fuses. If it does not work, then unplug the lamp and check out the wiring for voltage supply and earth with a voltmeter. Check the terminals of the lamp plate for corrosion or heat damage and rectify as necessary. Check the lamps bulb plate for a good circuit(s) through its conductor bars. They sometimes seperate and go open circuit. Finally double check that the bulb is fitted correctly. It is not too un-common for the bulb to forced round into its holder, the bulb contacts then being out of position to make contact. From experiance my first actions would be be check bulb, check supply and earth, check bulb plate.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T10:47:56.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:09:44.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered a dual tank for the machine. When I was riding my BSA C12 many years ago, some machines, not mine, had a tap on the tank to switch between a reserve tank and a main tank. The reserve tank was inside the main tank. Me-I relied on taking the filler cap off and looking inside before/during a trip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:09:44.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11574" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:15:03.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resistor packs/Thermostats can and do fail. Your one lasted 10 years. This would not be a bad performance for non-safety critical part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:15:03.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11564" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:24:41.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A compression test is part and parcel of this sort of complaint. But dont forget the good old cylinder leakage test. This will pin point areas a lone compression test wil not do. There are cases of this sort of high oil consumption, and in a lot of these cases using a cheaper oil of the wrong viscosity and grade leads to the piston rings becoming gummed up and jammed in their grooves by blow by gases and being unable to perform their job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:24:41.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11563" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:30:17.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a quick scan from your auto parts store to check out the sender. If your temperature sensor is not working the chances are your engine management system will be using a substituted arbitary figure and you will be using too much fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:30:17.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11562" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:41:26.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three parts to do what you want to do. You need a plug in reader. The one on your link will do. This part reads the coding from your system and 'broadcasts' it. Then you need an Android smart phone to pick up the 'broadcast' and act as a display unit for the codings. The smart phone will need an app to do this. If you are still googling, look up OTC 3005; iOBD2; Torgue Pro, and make your choice. The DLC for the Sonata is found on the lower steering columm cowling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:41:26.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11559" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:49:49.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Return your vehicle to the garage that carried out the work in case they need to do any rectification work, or, advise you of anything else that may be developing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:49:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:57:40.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belive me or not,&#xA;I installed on my e39 520i 97 m52b28 engine cruise control.&#xA;It took me really few days maybe about week- to sort out all items you need.&#xA;Cruise control UNIT,MFL sterring unit if your sterring wheel is before 07.97,cruise control acutator with linkage, power on button on dash(dependes), and few good meters of diffrent colour cables. If you lacky enough you get wires from scrap yard /if not plugs for them will be great.&#xA;I have an sterring wheel with heater element from 96 7series which doesnt have MFL control unit on it - so I had to do lots for wiring - BUT is possigle to make it working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then If you sort this out check for any problems via INPA remove all faults, and you need to code it - NCSEXPERT so the icon of CRUISE ON/Off will work on Instrument Cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!!&#xA;Marcin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6585" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:57:40.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T14:11:51.580" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into Brisk ZC Multispark plugs. The design is interesting. it doesn't have a ground strap like regular plugs, nor is it one with multiple ground straps to get in the way of the flame front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of putting them into my 1990 Pontiac Lemans (1.6L engine). Will I see better gas mileage or performace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T23:25:25.527" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T14:13:13.287" Title="Will I get better performance with Brisk ZC plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11601" CreationDate="2014-07-30T14:21:43.977" Score="2" ViewCount="13488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Volvo service told me that the camshaft seal of my Volvo XC90 needs to be replaced for $1000. I see no oil on the timing belt, its dry. It just has some black dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is real leak, can it brake the engine suddenly? Does the car need an emergency repair right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way timing belt replaced 5 months ago and current mileage is 103K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank-you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6398" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T01:10:16.713" Title="Can camshaft seal leaking hurt timing belt and cause sudden engine breakdown while driving? - Volvo XC90" Tags="|oil|volvo|oil-leak|timing-belt|camshaft|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11591" CreationDate="2014-07-30T15:18:49.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your Volvo dealer has told you that the cam seal has gone, then in all proberbility then it has. You could have a second garage look at it by way of confirmation. The timing belt itself will have a tolerance to being contaminated with oil, but the integrity of the belt is now under suspicion. If it is contaminated badly enough then it could snap. The cambelt snapping whilst the engine is running will be catastropic. In the very least it would mean bent valves, and at worst a destroyed engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:18:49.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11590" CreationDate="2014-07-30T15:29:37.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your engine was in its design and testing phase, OEM manufacturers of the various components will have tested and tested again all of the component parts to an exacting standard. You will not gain any advantage by detracting off of this standard. The Brisk plugs may offer some enhancements in a race tuned engine, but the suggestion that a plug without a protruding ground electrode will accelerate the flame front to any appreciable amount would not really stand upto critical examination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:29:37.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:56:17.007" Score="1" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI which has issues when starting from cold: lots of white smoke and rough idling until it warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had it tested at several garages, who both diagnosed low compression in cylinder 2 and said they thought it could be a bent conrod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also informed me that for a sure diagnosis they'd have to remove the head and look inside the engine, which could cost upwards of £1000. My question is, what are the potential consequences of NOT repairing this, and can I 'get away' with not doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6552" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T07:14:12.053" Title="Mondeo 04 TDCI bent conrod - worth fixing?" Tags="|ford|compression|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11594" CreationDate="2014-07-30T17:52:16.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First... find another garage. White smoke and low compression are NOT symptoms of a bent connecting rod. Also, you CANNOT inspect the connecting rods by removing the head - they're on the opposite (bottom) ends of the pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White smoke and low compression are both symptoms of a blown head gasket. That's very classic. It doesn't sound like it's very bad, just beginning... but it CANNOT get better, and it WILL get worse in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequences? A head gasket replacement is a relatively cheap repair; it should NOT cost you anything like a thousand pounds (that's nearly $2000 to Americans). Ridiculous! But... if you let it go until it gets REALLY bad (it won't take long to do that), then it could easily make the engine unrebuildable and destroy your radiator in the bargain. Coolant will be getting into your motor oil and wrecking its lubricity (besides turning it acidic), and the ruined motor oil will result in catastrophic engine failure. Meanwhile, high-pressure exhaust gases may be exchanging, getting into your coolant, and can very easily destroy the radiator (which is only ever intended to tolerate about 15psi of pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please - go find a better shop and let them do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T17:52:16.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11594" CreationDate="2014-07-30T21:16:01.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The book time for your head gasket renewal is 9.8 hrs. An average sort of hourly rate would be around £95+ an hour(UK). Parts would come to around £150. On these pretty average figures you are looking at something like £1300 with the tax(VAT). White smoke on a diesel engine is symptomatic of the cylinder/cylinders not burning the fuel properly. This could be as simple an item as a glow plug malfunction, especially as you say on a cold engine. The way forward is a leak off test on the fuel side, a cylinder leakage test on the engine, and a scan on the electrics. This will give a good picture of whats going on with the engine before you have any major work done. The other consideration is to use the services of a diesel specialist garage, rather then a garage that 'does diesels'. Your symptoms could very well indicate a bent con-rod. The condition of the engines bore would give an indication, but from having the head off to dropping the sump and pulling the piston and rod would only be another hour or so of labour. It is unusual to have just one con-rod bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T21:16:01.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11600" CreationDate="2014-07-30T22:40:48.327" Score="-3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean team, year, racing series, engine?&#xA;Is there some place in the internet where information about such cars can be found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pY1zf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown racecar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6589" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T01:13:26.363" Title="Can you recognize the model of the car?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-07-30T23:55:52.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2014-07-31T01:05:23.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial kneejerk for this one is a little different - since it sat outside, and since it runs FOR A WHILE before it shuts down, and since a cooldown does get it running again... I think it's overheating. I think mice may have crawled inside the cooling cowl (this is an air-cooled engine), had a party, and some of 'em decided to shack up there over the winter, where the cats couldn't bust 'em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra heat buildup in the cooling fins will, among other things, heat the fuel tank more than it was ever designed for... pressurizing it and potentially forcing the float valve open, flooding the carburetor. If allowed to go further, it'd seize the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm right, change the oil after cleaning the nests out from under the cowl. Excess heat does NOTHING good for motor oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T01:05:23.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11598" CreationDate="2014-07-31T01:13:26.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the side of the car, you can see the name &lt;em&gt;Freeman Racing Associates&lt;/em&gt;. This refers to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Freeman_(racing_driver)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill Freeman&lt;/a&gt;'s team. Freeman is most notable for the team he created with acting legend Paul Newman. Freeman was also a driver himself. The team was called &lt;em&gt;Newman Freeman Racing&lt;/em&gt;. Here is their team logo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lr2CI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the car ... I'm thinking it was probably a Ford, considering what was subtitled at the bottom of the picture, but I cannot find anything about what year this was (it was not 96, as it appears at the bottom under the &quot;Turbo&quot;). That would make it a Penske/Ford, as I believe only Penske was using Ford engines then. The only racing entry I can find for the team on the internet would be for the 1981 Indianapolis 500, where Michael Chandler drove the #68 (yes, this appears to be Freeman's Indy team number) to a 17th place finish. This car was a Chevy powered vehicle, though, not Ford. I found this information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://racing-reference.info/race/1981-06/UO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;racing-reference.info&lt;/a&gt;. The car appears to be a late 60's/early 70's model Formula 1 car, considering the open and large wheels, lack of major hood scoop over the driver (they started putting really large ones on the cars in the early 70's), and small winglets. If you can believe the card, this was powered by a 3870cc V12 engine with a top speed of 310km/h ... at least that is what I believe it's trying to say. This car was probably run on the F1 circuit in Europe, but that is a total SWAG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T01:13:26.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11591" CreationDate="2014-07-31T01:19:32.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions, if there is a real leak, then yes, there is a problem. The oil will cause the belt to deteriorate and possibly slip. When it does, it is catastrophic. Pistons slam against valves and the head is toast (in most cases). This does happen suddenly. Get a different shop to look at it. If the belt appears dry, I would bet there isn't an immediate danger of failure, &lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt; I would have it looked at all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T01:19:32.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7480" CreationDate="2014-07-31T05:01:10.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bet is... the clutch disk (the friction part) happens to vibrate at a frequency that coincides with that particular engine RPM, and is barely free enough to vibrate with the clutch disengaged. If I'm correct, it's nothing to worry about - only an annoyance, and shouldn't shorten the life of the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T05:01:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11527" CreationDate="2014-07-31T05:08:17.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They actually sell a debonding agent just for that very purpose. As I recall, it sprays on &amp;amp; wicks under the button, releasing the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... the SIMPLE thing to do, and least worrisome, is to get another button and stick it directly to the one that's already in there... only right-side-up this time. Nobody will ever notice that you have two buttons, one stuck atop the other. I've watched a good mechanic do that in a Porsche dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T05:08:17.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11594" CreationDate="2014-07-31T07:14:12.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bent conrod will cause low compression in a cylinder, but not white smoke. White smoke is an indication of water being sucked into the cylinder, ergo a leaking headgasket. If you haven't done any performance modifications to your car, it's unlikely you would have bent a conrod unless your timing belt broke or one of the cylinders got flooded. The latter is highly unlikely in a diesel engine because there are no spark plugs that can malfunction and the very act of compressing the air/fuel mix is enough to ignite it. Also, a bent conrod doesn't miraculously get UN-bent when the engine warms up. It's even more unlikely that it will RE-bend itself when it cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open your hood and have a look at the level of antifreeze in your expansion tank. If it's way below the indicated level, you most likely have a blown headgasket which is leaking antifreeze/water into the combustion chamber. It's free to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T07:14:12.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2014-07-31T07:47:05.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solutions is to drain the oil and replace the oil filter to prevent damage to your car. Then fill it with new and clean oil. As antifreeze is harmful for the engine and can cause lots of smoke and can overfill the oil capacity in engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T07:47:05.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2014-07-31T14:39:57.463" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once in a while you get lucky. Have them make you a key from your VIN and try it. Some vehicles will start with an unprogrammed key - my '07 Tacoma is one of those vehicles; It'll start even with the grey (non-intelligent, door-only) key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the key. If the car refuses to start with it, you'll have to go to Plan B, towing the car to where they can program the key for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:39:57.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11609" CreationDate="2014-07-31T16:19:57.747" Score="4" ViewCount="5999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought some Castrol Magnatec oil that is rated C-3, instead of A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car requires API SG or higher. Looking at the Castrol site, I can use the C-3 oil as it is rated SN, even though C rated oils are for diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause any issues? Should I return the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T18:36:00.917" Title="C Grade engine oil in petrol / gas engine" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2014-07-31T20:58:31.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, the C-3 you are talking about is an ACEA rating. The two major rating agencies for oils are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.api.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Petrolium Institute&lt;/a&gt; (API) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acea.be/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The European Automobile Manufacturers Association&lt;/a&gt; (ACEA). As was said on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, these two bodies are trying to bring order to chaos in the world of oil. You are correct that the SN is the most current oil you can get. The problem lies in that I cannot tell you, with the information provided, whether you can use the C3 rated oil. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this web page&lt;/a&gt;, you'll need to consult your owners manual or service manual. I suppose you could also call the dealership as well. Anyway, here is the listings for all of the A/B/C/E oils under ACEA and what they mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A1/B1 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C1 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils have the lowest SAPS limits and are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C2 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines, with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for some EGR engines and some engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E6 Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for EGR engines, with or without particulate filters, and for engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E6 quality is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E7 Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E9 Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines with or without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and for most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E9 is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Drivers Manuals and/or Dealers should be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T14:30:31.497" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:30:31.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2014-07-31T21:21:26.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure what is used is just mileage calculation to figure out how many miles are left in a tank of gas. Other than that, you pop the cap off, look down the hole and see how much fuel is in the tank. Once you have been riding the bike for a while, you'll know just how far a tank of gas will carry you and also be able to tell by the slosh in the tank about how much gas is in there so you'll know when to fill up. IMHO, trying to add a tank which will give you an option for a gauge is not a good way to go, especially if (at least this is the way it sounds) you really like the bike. If you really like the bike, then you must like the aesthetics of the bike as well, which means if you change the tank, it will most likely be ugly in your eyes. It will appear as if something is just not right. Don't rely so much on electronic or mechanical gizmos to tell you how much gas is left, figure it out the old fashioned way and make riding your bike that much more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T21:21:26.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11627" CreationDate="2014-08-01T05:41:03.657" Score="5" ViewCount="3410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1991 Honda CBR250RR that has been left sitting for the past few months. Unfortunately I didn't take the proper steps for winter storage before I stopped using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried starting it up a few times today with the choke open but the engine doesn't want to turn over. The battery seems to work though, so I'm ruling that out at this stage. Also I noticed when in neutral it was quite hard to push it forward? I wonder if the problem is with this because when I tried starting it in gear while having the clutch in, I could feel it wanting to move forward but there was a lot of friction so it just gave up (starter motor engages but engine didn't have chance to start)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have loose clutch cable before I stopped riding, could this be the issue?, Although sticking it neutral would still separate the discs right? or does the neutral gear depend on the clutch cable in someway? (does that make sense lol?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastEditorUserId="803" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T11:11:13.960" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T13:36:18.923" Title="Trying to start a Honda CBR250RR after winter (Also feeling a lot of friction when in neutral)" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|starting|clutch|winter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11629" CreationDate="2014-08-01T05:51:18.503" Score="19" ViewCount="261981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Infiniti Q45. I replaced the front rotors and pads on Sunday. It was the first time I've done this on a car, though I have done it countless times on various motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was careful to apply proper torque to all fittings and verified everything was clear before installing the wheels and driving the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car drove fine all week and then today the brakes started pulsating and making a sound at the same moment of the pulse at 20 mph. At 30 mph, the pulsating and sound become scary, so I parked the car, put it up on jack stands, removed the wheels, and after inspection I can find nothing obviously wrong. I did notice that the right rotor has some visible scratches on it, but I can't see anything that could touch the rotor except the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pulsating is perfectly rhythmic, so I'm fairly certain that whatever is causing the pulsating is also spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotors and pads are from Autozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T22:22:19.823" Title="What causes brakes to pulsate right after rotor and pad replacement?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11611" CreationDate="2014-08-01T06:57:46.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that because or corrosion and stick together of some parts. Knocking could help to release you clutch. Some other parts, like carburetor need to be cleaned. Fresh fuel, new plug, start help spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T06:57:46.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T07:32:12.060" Score="2" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear window has stopped working and the interior light in between the front and back seats as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find the interior light fuse, although the interior light by the rear view mirror works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my parking sensors have stopped working ( these were not factory fitted so am unsure were they are wired in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I cannot find the rear window fuse. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6601" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T14:13:13.747" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T05:00:25.697" Title="Mitsubishi L200 Warrior rear electric window issue" Tags="|electrical|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11615" CreationDate="2014-08-01T07:58:58.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a fuse for only one door, but for both rear doors or even all 4. The fuse box is under the steering wheel on the left side. The other one (but don't need in your case) is under the hood near battery. Pull every fuse one after another and check them, or look at the car manual where it is. If this is not the fuse, there muss be a short circuit  of window engine or cable break somewhere.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T07:58:58.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T09:22:16.247" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the proper place for cables with this type of connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1mgmk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my wires (the ones with end-connectors) between the bolt and metal plate, like such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uu6PN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should they be below the plate instead? I figured the metal plate is a good conductor, but I've seen people mount below this plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:12:03.147" Title="battery terminal setup question" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2014-08-01T09:32:30.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need a new stator. Your problem sounds like there are loose connections or there may be reason that the bike is not charging properly. I think you start checking all the basics first and check the battery to make sure it is good. Check the volts on your battery with voltmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T09:32:30.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11617" CreationDate="2014-08-01T09:37:23.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think in this case that makes not a big difference. Anyway there is a point on amperage. Then higher the amperage is, then more surface you need. When you do it over the plate, you surface is the bolt and the metal plate, that transfer a part on ampere over the plate to another bolt and then to connector. Under the plate it is the same, until you do not rub off the color under the plate. So your surface increase to bolt, plate and connector itself. Good is, if you scratch off the color under the plate and screw your wire also under the plate (more surface). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T09:37:23.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2014-08-01T10:27:02.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a carburetor problem, but only because the fuel and air mixture is too lean. In cold environment there is more oxygen in the air, which increases the amount of &quot;air&quot; in the air-fuel mixture. This is further proven by the fact you have to accelerate to keep the bike alive - by accelerating you use parts of the carb only used in medium/high openings, refer to this graph: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVjSX.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.mopedarmy.com/mediawiki/images/thumb/7/72/PHBGGraph.png/286px-PHBGGraph.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to tune the carburetor so it gives you more fuel during idle/lower revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that during summer you have to undo that change as the oxygen % in air becomes smaller again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T10:33:24.610" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T10:33:24.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2014-08-01T13:56:24.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure without a photo but in many cases it is rust on the hub. Many rotors have an extra hole machined in the rotor. It is usually located between two of the stud holes. I am not sure of why it is there, perhaps to help balance the rotor or to aid in the machining process. What can occur is that a small amount of rust will form on the hub flange. If the rust is not removed or the new rotor is mounted on the rust spot (the extra hole in the new rotor is not exposing the rust spot) the rotor will not sit flat on the hub. When the lug nuts are tightened the rotor will twist, resulting in pedal pulsation. You may luck out and be able to shift the rotor to expose the rust or just remove the rust and cure the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T13:56:24.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:04:55.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely &lt;strong&gt;you didn't bed your brakes correctly&lt;/strong&gt;. If you read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from Centric Parts&lt;/a&gt;, you find out exactly what I'm talking about. The specific part I'm talking about is the portion on an even transfer layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note the emphasis on the word &lt;strong&gt;even&lt;/strong&gt;, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improper bedding of your brakes after replacement can cause the issues you are talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you'll need to take your rotors back off and have them re-burnished. I believe you can reuse the brake pads, just ensure you go through the bedding sequence properly this time and it should solve your issues. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11244/is-it-normal-for-stop-distance-to-be-long-on-brand-new-brake-pads/11245#11245&quot;&gt;another thread&lt;/a&gt; which we talked about the proper bedding of brakes. Ensure you read my entire post, as there is an addition about bedding I place in an edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T12:46:25.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11617" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:12:03.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll have much of an issue either way, though I think you'd have better off with a set like these than the ones you chose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOxyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture from Amazon.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly use the ones you purchased, normally you'd clip off the connectors at the end of the wires, then bare the wires (remove the insulation) about a 1/2&quot; back, then put the bare wires under the clamp, holding them there until you get the clamps (metal part where you are attaching the wires at now, not the part which holds the battery terminal) snugged down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, if you coat the terminal area and clamps (all exposed metal) in a thin layer of grease, you'll find you won't have as much corrosion buildup over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:12:03.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11628" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:15:34.003" Score="8" ViewCount="100075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the idea from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2012/04/how-to-clean-your-top-loader-washing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, where it suggests cleaning your washing machine using chlorine bleach and then vinegar. I have successfully used this method to clean my household washing machine more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be all right if I use chlorine bleach and then vinegar to clean my car radiator interior (coolant system ducts)? Or is there any chance of any damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3686" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T10:31:42.657" LastActivityDate="2020-11-20T13:50:12.360" Title="Is it all right to clean a car radiator with vinegar and chlorine?" Tags="|engine|radiator|cleaning|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11624" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:29:05.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;would not&lt;/strong&gt; use that solution to clean my radiator. Remember that a radiator itself is primarily made of fairly thin aluminum. The bleach/vinegar could very easily damage the structure and weaken it. A washing machine is made of (in most cases) a steel drum coated with porcelain, or stainless steel, both of which are very sturdy and are made to last a long time through a lot of abuse. Your car radiators only jobs are to maintain internal pressure, keep sealed, and allow the transfer of heat from your coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better idea is to utilize one of the many products on the market which will safely clean your radiator for you, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/79905733?src=pla&amp;amp;008=-99&amp;amp;pcrid=15557577904&amp;amp;007=Search&amp;amp;006=15557577904&amp;amp;005=21882504424&amp;amp;004=4409695744&amp;amp;002=2167139&amp;amp;mkwid=sJXegN7a0%7Cdc&amp;amp;cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_sJXegN7a0_PLA__15557577904_c_S&amp;amp;026=-99&amp;amp;025=c&amp;amp;item=79905733&quot;&gt;Gunk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/35764365?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;adid=22222222227025095639&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=44704813339&amp;amp;wl4=&amp;amp;wl5=pla&amp;amp;wl6=75926045539&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot;&gt;Prestone&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainger.com/product/36D354?gclid=CjwKEAjw9eyeBRCqxc_b-LD8kTESJADsBMxSv-YFQwvWOl3ELD7CoWEK1v6q75Xry7_tcanh9qmVVxoCgB_w_wcB&amp;amp;cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehicle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-36D354&amp;amp;ci_src=17588969&amp;amp;ci_sku=36D354&amp;amp;ef_id=UziEUQAAAaYf-jDk:20140801142536:s&quot;&gt;Bar's Stop Leak&lt;/a&gt; flushes (there are many more, these are just examples). Following their directions here will save you not only time, but money as well. Using the above cleaning agents may, or may not, have adverse affects, but why chance it when you can utilize a product which is specifically designed to clean your entire cooling system and will not harm it in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:29:05.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11611" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:32:34.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would remove the spark plugs and  spray some lubricant into the cylinders. Use something like PB Blaster, SeaFoam, Liquid Wrench etc. Allow it to sit overnight. With the bike on the center stand, the ignition in &quot;off&quot;, the transmission in gear rotate the back wheel to see if the motor will turn over. You should see some of the oil being pushed out of the spark plug holes. If the motor turns freely you need to test the battery. It may read 12volts but not provide enough current to turn the motor over. You need to determine the faulty components. It could be a frozen motor, bad starter or weak battery. A good battery and starter won't spin a seized motor so start with the motor then go to the battery then check the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:32:34.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11611" CreationDate="2014-08-01T19:13:26.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use &quot;carburetor &amp;amp; fuel injector cleaner&quot; (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the carburetor(s) after you get it running. You mix the stuff with the fresh, new gasoline you're going to pour into the tank next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After (partially, let's NOT get ahead of ourselves) filling the tank with fresh new gasoline and part of a jug of carburetor &amp;amp; fuel injector cleaner (mix it at the manufacturer's suggested rate), start charging the battery with a battery charger. DO NOT &quot;fast charge&quot; it, let it charge up on slow charge. It'll take hours. Fast charging will boil the water out of the battery instead of letting it convert back into sulphuric acid, which it's SUPPOSED to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the battery's fully charged, THEN see about rocking the bike back &amp;amp; forth while it's in about 2nd gear, clutch lever released. If you like, pull a spark plug &amp;amp; feel the piston with a longish copper wire or solder. Touch the top of the piston in that cylinder with your wire, then bend over your wire about 1/2&quot; above the head. Pull the wire OUT, rock the bike, probe the piston again with your wire. If the bend is still 1/2&quot; above the head, you're not moving the piston, the bike's motor doesn't look happy, and you have a lot more work ahead of you than you thought. If the bend is now resting on the head, or if it's lifted significantly above 1/2&quot;, then you ARE turning the motor over by rocking the bike. Very good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now before you do anything else, remove the air cleaner and clean the mouse nests out of it. While you're in there, look for any weep holes or air hoses running from it up to the carburetor(s). Check for wasp mud nests. I've had mud nests in air lines cost me hours before I found them - they like any opening between about 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; to lay their eggs in, sealing their eggs in with mud. Those mud plugs can make your bike run NASTY. Leave the air cleaner open - you'll see why in a moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that's all cleaned out, peek at the oil. In fact, don't even look at it - it has condensate (water) in it from the winter. A crankcase breathes all winter, inhaling moisture-laden air. Crankcase gets cooler, that moisture settles on the cooling metal &amp;amp; water runs down into your oil where you don't want it. Change the oil out of hand. Now. At the VERY least, loosen the drain plug &amp;amp; drain off the quarter-cup that comes out first - water will tend to collect underneath all the oil (it's heavier), so it'll be in the first bit that comes out. Provided that you didn't crank the engine, of course, which stirs it all up into a colloidal milkshake that won't separate all summer. Yep, the oil pickup tube reaches to the BOTTOM of the oil (so it still gets some when it's running really low)... right to where the water settled over the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel the bike out to a shady spot outdoors (important!) where it won't tip over off its kickstand, and put the kickstand down. A double kickstand is best, or wood blocks that raise the rear wheel off the ground. A single kickstand will do, though, if you chock the rear wheel. The FRONT of the rear wheel. So it can't take off &amp;amp; nail your neighbor's prize rosebushes when you get the motor started. Remember, the clutch IS sticky right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, yes - take the battery charger out there with you. You'll be needing it. Connect it back up to the battery &amp;amp; plug it into the long extension cord you also took out with you. Start charging again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's acclimating to its shady spot, go buy a can of spray starting fluid. Don't get two cans, you won't need the second one, and they tend to lose pressure over the winter so it's useless to stock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get back from the store, you're about ready, Shoo any wasps away from your air cleaner (we already talked about them) and try cranking the bike. If you get no fire fairly immediately (within ten seconds of cranking), stop and let the starter cool down while you retrieve your can of starting fluid from the truck. Let it cool down a little more - a couple of minutes - then spray a LITTLE starting fluid into the intake, where the air filter was when the air cleaner cover was on. You want it to go pretty directly to the carburetor(s). DO NOT shoot a whole lot in there unless you feel comfortable cleaning up an exploded engine. Immediately (within less than one second) after shooting in the starting fluid, crank it again. If you're lucky, it'll fire a little. Shoot in a LITTLE more &amp;amp; crank it again. Sometime in here you'll be closing (you close a choke to start a cold engine, open it to run a warm engine) your choke as you start to crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to let the starter motor cool off periodically - extended cranking is VERY bad for starter motors. The hotter they get, the longer they need to cool down afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, it'll actually begin to run a little. At this point, you should probably back off on the starting fluid and close up the air cleaner again - it's starting to use gasoline. Close the choke fully &amp;amp; keep it that way until you can get it to run for fifteen seconds or longer - then you can fiddle with it like you usually do when you're starting that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep after the crank-fire-idle-die-cool off-crank pattern until you can get it to idle fairly consistently for a fair length of time. DO NOT try to get it to run past an idle. It's not ready for that yet - the carburetor &amp;amp; fuel injector cleaner hasn't done its job yet, so the carburetor's mix is leaner than it should be for right now, so it'll run too hot for higher RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to get it to IDLE, and stay IDLING, for an extended time. During this time, you should expect it to smoke like a brush fire. That's the piston rings, which have rusted in place over the winter. Idling will gradually loosen them up so they seat against the cylinder walls again. That cloud of smoke is why we brought it outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle it, smoking like a demon, for at least half an hour. If you run out of gas, put more in... mixed with more of the same jug of carburetor &amp;amp; fuel injector cleaner, still at the label's mix rate. If after half an hour it's still smoking badly, idle it for ANOTHER half hour. Soon the smoke will clear - it'll be a gradual thing, but it WILL clear. You may not even notice the difference for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take advantage of that first half-hour making yourself feel useful by tinkering with that clutch cable. Get it adjusted up the way it's supposed to be. Tinker too with all the other little piddling things you didn't tend to last year 'cause you were too busy riding. Make a list of the stuff you broke off and intend to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way... neutral has nothing to do with the clutch. Neutral is just where none of the gears are in mesh with each other. The clutch is fully engaged in neutral just like it is in any other gear position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the smoking has cleared up pretty well (it'll probably still smoke a little for the first several hours of running), go apologize to your neighbors for making the 'hood look like something out of a Cheech &amp;amp; Chong movie. Come back &amp;amp; put some more gas-C&amp;amp;CC mix into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At THIS point you can think about revving it up a bit. Expect it to stumble. The C&amp;amp;CC won't have finished its job until you've run at least five gallons of gas-C&amp;amp;CC through. Go ahead &amp;amp; toy with the throttle. Remember that sound? Yeah. You're going to save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you've burned at least five gallons of gas-C&amp;amp;CC, take it a bit easy on the bike and don't ride anywhere alone. If it stalls out &amp;amp; you can't start it, it's a long, long push home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep mixing C&amp;amp;CC with the gas until you've burned at least TEN total gallons. Varnish doesn't wash off immediately, it has to dissolve slowly unless it's being done in a carburetor dip tank or pressure-sprayed on the bench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T13:36:18.923" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T13:36:18.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11624" CreationDate="2014-08-01T19:21:31.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely not intentionally put sodium hypchlorite bleach in my radiator. Vinegar is one thing, but the sodium hypochlorite will attack anything aluminum in your radiator, intake manifold, block, or head. It'll also attack (vigorously) any rubberized gaskets that're in contact with coolant. Even disregarding outright measurable damage, it'll release gobs of aluminum ions &amp;amp; migrate them around inside the cooling system where they're not wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any good reason to use bleach - there's nothing in there that would call for the stuff. No organics building up, no discoloration you care about. Now, the vinegar would help alleviate any problems you might have introduced by not using distilled water to mix your antifreeze - the vinegar will tend to relieve the mineral deposits you may have gotten from your tap water. Bleach? No such purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T19:21:31.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2014-08-01T19:42:54.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paul, I'd like you to open up those brakes again and examine the rotors very carefully. I just finished a conversation with a fella who described symptoms identical to yours. I walked him through a range of troubleshooting steps until finally I was nearly convinced that he had a cracked CV joint boot and he needed to replace an axle shaft when he suddenly found a fine hairline crack on one of his rotors. It was nearly undetectable, but he replaced the rotor and all is now fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: BTW... what brand brake pads did you use? Some manufacturers recommend AGAINST any bed-in or burnishing procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T03:38:27.610" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T03:38:27.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2014-08-02T03:22:29.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than a lean fuel mix, you may also have a valve train problem - if the exhaust valves are opening too soon or never closing correctly, it'd dump still-burning exhaust into the exhaust manifold. It'd run very poorly and may get your exhaust manifold hot enough to glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T03:22:29.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T04:38:14.513" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Holden Barina. I turned the car on to &quot;Accessories&quot; and the radio was working fine.  I turned the car on, and now there is a noise coming from the speakers and no music.  The same thing happens with the CD player.  What happened and how can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6606" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T14:39:50.577" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:08:09.027" Title="Noisy stereo when engine running" Tags="|audio|gm|barina|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2014-08-02T05:08:10.757" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done countless brake jobs at the shop I worked at; without hearing/seeing the car here are some things that can cause noise/pulsating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-burnished brakes&lt;/strong&gt; - like others have stated after putting fresh pads and rotors on a car you need to 'break them in.' I worked in a shop for a while and we didn't always do everything by the book, but when putting new pads and rotors on a car we would take some sandpaper to the pads and rotors, we'd call it 'roughing them up.' Then I would take the car for a test drive for a little and speed up to 20-30 mph and then hit the brakes with 'more than typical' force for about 10-20 times, depending on how much of a rush I was in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knocked off a wheel weight&lt;/strong&gt; when taking off the tire; it happens. I would suspect this would be the case if the pulsating feeling only happens at certain speeds and not at others, but it would not explain any loud noises.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something got caught up inside the wheel&lt;/strong&gt;. I have had this happen on my own vehicle. A stick or rock gets caught in the right spot and it sounds like my car is SCREAMING something metallic and scratchy. Taking off the wheel and removing the object has fixed this in the past (also some erratic driving has as well other times).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Imperfect / warped rotor&lt;/strong&gt; - sometimes you can get a bad rotor. You can measure the rotors with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000GSLKIW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;micrometer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotor not seated properly on hub&lt;/strong&gt;. When you took off the old rotor did you take a wire brush to the hub to make sure to remove any debris/rust so that the new rotor(s) sit nice and flush on the hub?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's not your new brakes&lt;/strong&gt;, it's your rear or something else like a hub, bearing or cv joint (I would think it was any of those three since they often make noise at all speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that just because you just did your brakes, it does not 100% mean that this is a brake related issue. I've patched tires on cars and had the customer complain because &quot;as soon as he got home&quot; his water pump went so it must have been something I did...sometimes it is just coincidental (but in this case it does sound repair related).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastEditorUserId="6333" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T05:27:01.050" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T05:27:01.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6868" CreationDate="2014-08-02T05:40:57.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give your local motorcycle dealership a call. FMF does make replacement cores and these are very likely available from your local FMF dealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mfg part number will help you find what you're looking for: 040261&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confirm on their web page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/Accessories/334&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/Accessories/334&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T05:40:57.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11217" CreationDate="2014-08-02T05:49:52.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a chance the relay needs to be replaced. There's a couple steps you could try beforehand though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check resistance between all the wires from the light controls to the relay to the light bulb itself. As long as there's zero to very little resistance you know all your wiring is ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can clean the contacts. Use some steel wool and/or sandpaper to clean any contacts that are exposed, fold up some sand paper to clean any contacts that might be hard to get to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once they're clean, and if that does the trick, put a little dieletric grease on all the terminals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that all fails just replace the relay, as long as they're available they're probably really cheap. I doubt it could be attributed to anything else. Wouldn't be a bad idea to just take a quick look at your bulbs and bulb sockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T05:49:52.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T08:42:48.963" Score="3" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a couple of days ago VW Gold estate diesel 1.9 TDI Bluemotion from 2008. Unfortunately, the previous owner did not provide a manual for it and this is insanely expensive to order the duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering if someone could at least help me with information in front panel (dashboard)--the one between speed and revolution meters. I can see it is split into 3 section s: top, middle and bottom. The top and bottom sections show always the same info such as clock or overall miles and a trip etc. The middle section can have seven different screens. Please I would be grateful if someone would explain what they represent. Some of them were easier to guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 1: &quot;ø 55.5 mpg&quot;&#xA;I believe it shows average miles per gallon. There's a little digit 2 in the right upper corner and I don't know what it is&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 2: &quot;104 mpg&quot;&#xA;An instant miles per gallon. Without digit 2 in the corner&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 3: 31 h 38 min - with 2 in the corner&#xA;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 4: &quot;Speed warning --- mph&quot;&#xA;Does not seem to change&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 5: &quot;ø 23 mph&quot;&#xA;I guess this is average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 6: &quot;726 miles&quot; - &#xA;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screen 7: &quot; 260 miles&quot; -&#xA;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question is if I can reset all the stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be grateful for the answer. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6567" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T00:06:15.627" Title="Front info panel in VW Golf Estate Diesel 1,9 TDi 2008" Tags="|fuel-system|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-08-02T09:18:49.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The readings are off of your trip computer. The little numbers in the corner are for differant trips - say business or pleasure, differant drivers etc. You do not need a workshop manual. The vehicle should have a 'drivers handbook' to give you all the operational details you need. If you do not have one they are available from your VW maindealer at modest cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T09:18:49.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2014-08-02T10:22:33.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to fit the brackets on the smaller seat, behind the drivers side (in a UK, right hand drive car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my late 2005 model Focus, Mark II I think, UK registration &quot;XX54&quot; there was nothing on the door side hinge to lever up with a screwdriver (as per many instructions out there), instead the back seats came out according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/38659-removing-rear-seats-mk-25-to-fit-isofix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Instructions on removing the rear seats from a Ford Focus MkII&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; on the Focus Fanatics forum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber/plastic bungs for the threaded bolt holes are then obvious under the line of the rear seat back, and comparatively easy to remove with a screwdriver. The bolts for the Isofix bracket can then be fitted with a Torx bolt (T50):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/66WUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Isofix bracket in place in a Ford Focus Mk II&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6607" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T10:48:14.760" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T10:48:14.760" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-02T18:01:11.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11624" CreationDate="2014-08-02T11:02:59.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Cleaning' radiators is very much a thing of the past. Modern rads are made of alloys and plastics which are no longer cleaned internally. Introducing any sort of caustic cleaner into your cooling system has the very real ability of destroying seals and gaskets and bearings in the system as well. Introducing products like a leak stopping formula only goes to block the passages of your system, especially the heater matrix. Blocked rad means a new rad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T11:02:59.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2014-08-02T11:25:07.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pad and discs are a well practised bread and butter job. Your problem can only be because of: Wrong or defective parts, incorrect fitting damage such as not using a caliper piston retraction tool, incorrect re-assembly of shims and bolts and anti-rattle springs, previous damage or mis-alignment being masked by the old pad wear, a foreign body introduced into the system. Avoiding harsh braking for  a couple of hundred miles is all that is required to bed in a set of pads. Quite a few replacement brake components today come with bedding in compounds already applied and they should be used as out of the box. Avoid or dismiss all the guff you hear otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T11:25:07.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2014-08-02T12:15:55.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'mystery' surrounding engine oils in very many cases is promoted by the after-market, and is normally profit motivated. The main areas for particular consideration are hybrid vehicles, long life servicing, and diesels fitted with DPF's. The vehicles manufacturer test all of their vehicles extensively before marketing them. The recommended oil from your manufacturer is always the optimum choice and will always be the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T12:15:55.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T15:33:23.420" Score="0" ViewCount="2732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon starting, engine idles at about 1200 in park.  When it warms up, idle drops to nothing, unless air conditioner is at max where rpm is roughly 400 to 500.  Where should I start looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6610" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T15:54:03.363" Title="99 Mitsubishi Montero Sport idle problem" Tags="|transmission|idle|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T15:49:05.460" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kia rondo 07 if I have key in on position but not started I turn air on and it squeaks like old door hinge is  that not normal or a problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6611" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T22:42:58.110" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T22:42:58.110" Title="Air vent squeaks while car in on position" Tags="|ac|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2014-08-02T17:13:34.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All modern vehicles require a scan when it comes to fault finding. Even as a routine part of its service a scan should be included. Your vehicles idling is controlled by APP- accelerator pedal position switch, IAC- idle air control and the ECT- engine temperature sensor. The engines RPM is also increased by a pressure sensor in your AirCon system. The engine cooling temperature sensor is usually a dual circuit affair. When the engine is on the cold side the primary circuit of this sensor indicates the temperature to the engine computer, and the engine computer adjusts the engine speed accordingly. As the engine warms to operating temperature, the secondry circuit takes over and controls the idle speed. The dual circuits provide a more precise temperature reading over the engines heat range. When you load the engine with the AirCon a further increase in speed is provided to counteract the drop in engine RPM from the AirCon loading. The most probable cause of your problem is the ETC, but a scan should be carried out to truly determine the problem area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T17:13:34.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11642" CreationDate="2014-08-02T17:24:03.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real differance between your vehicles electrical system with the engine on or off is made by the alternator. Running on battery, your system voltage will be lower then when the engine drives the alternator. With the alternator running, supplying the air fan with a higher voltage, the air fan will run a little faster and is the losing the conditions to allow it to squeak by causing the fan to be better 'balanced' in its operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T17:24:03.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11631" CreationDate="2014-08-02T17:39:36.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the face of it this should not happen. As have you white noise coming from your speakers it would seem that your radio/CD set has broken down internally. A check over from a competent auto electrician will determine if the fault is internal or down to any items such as mega-bass units external to the set, or even the aerial lead coming unplugged. A damaged external aerial could also cause this as far as the radio reception goes, but would not account for the CD not playing. Have you a set you could substitute with as a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T17:39:36.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T17:44:51.773" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;The radiator water is a browny color and very viscous. Oil levels have dropped beneath minimum on dip stick after adding 1.5 liters of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6612" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T22:40:11.903" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T08:59:54.133" Title="Oil in radiator? 1991 Ford Telstar" Tags="|engine|ford|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11646" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:04:37.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds so much like a classic head gasket failure that it nearly couldn't sound like anything else except vandalism. Since I'm not quite clinically paranoid, I'm gonna' go with the head gasket thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T21:04:37.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11036" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:16:16.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are a lot of things going on here, so I'm not sure there's a &quot;right&quot; answer (for others who visit this thread).  For my particular case, I think it ended up being the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axle bearing going bad (it finally completely destroyed itself on a trail)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel noise (perhaps imbalanced, maybe overinflated, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other things I've yet to identify.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular case - it's a jeep, and I do torture it to a degree... I'm not sure I'll ever find the exact problem.  But hopefully something here can help someone else! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6256" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T21:16:16.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11646" CreationDate="2014-08-03T08:59:54.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If differant antifreezes are mixed together, say blue and red, you will end up with a gooey brown fluid. The loss of oil sounds a puzzle. You are saying that you added 1.5 litres and then the oil level dropped, when it should have raised. Let your favourite mechanic have a look at the vehicle just to ascertain the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T08:59:54.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11036" CreationDate="2014-08-03T15:48:54.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got two strong suspicions. First is the pinion angle Paulster2 calls out - it's common with a shackle lift or SOA lift that the axle gets rolled so the rear driveshaft won't need replacing (too short with the lift). That's hellish on u-joints. if the transfer case end doesn't start with a CV joint, you simply cannot get away with an ordinary u-joint at the axle when the axle's rolled.  I personally like to use a torpedo level on the pinion yoke, looking for plumb, when I'm checking pinion angle. Vehicle on a level surface, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second... is tire noise transmitted inside by a hardened, collapsed, or missing tub cookie. One bad cookie can transmit tire noise from both tires right inside with you. I'd lean more towards this one if the rhythmic wob-wob-wob sound changed significantly on gradual curves left or right, as the treads on the two tires sync with each other, then move out of sync, then sync with each other again - the tires will be rotating at different speeds on any curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T15:48:54.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="258" CreationDate="2014-08-03T16:14:30.080" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although many people do not drive there cars hard enough to need synthetic oils, being able to go 10k miles before a change makes them cheaper in the long run, though more expensive per oil change. And when living in an area where temperatures get below -20, it can really help with starting. Also if you care about the environment, they are better for it too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6617" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:17:54.860" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:17:54.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T17:29:49.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used 2009 Toyota Camry LE from Ontario, Canada. I have only driven the car for 1 month in Nigeria and I am still using the Pirelli Winter tyres the car came with. While driving, I observe there is a lot of strange noise in the cabin of the car, and it increases with speed especially on the highway. I always have to increase the volume of my sound system in order to  hear what is on radio or CD player. At speeds above 100 km/hr, I observe additional hum sound/impact similar to friction between 2 metal surfaces. My mechanic inspected and showed me that 2 of the mounts are due for change - one is at the vertical shaft that connects to the front left wheel and the second is behind the engine block inside the bonnet.&#xA;Please, help provide guidance on what to do to fix this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6618" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T01:50:51.823" Title="Excessive noise/vibration in the cabin of 2009 toyota camry" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2014-08-04T00:06:15.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made a thread on one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/f22/readings-front-driver-vw-golf-estate-1-9-tdi-diesel-bluemotion-17471.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VW forums&lt;/a&gt;. Thanks to people there I have been given a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/multifunction-display-mfi-or-mfd-faq-and-menu-settings-mk5-mk6/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; with some explanations. Hope this will also help the others :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6567" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T00:06:15.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11656" CreationDate="2014-08-04T01:50:51.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well at the risk of sounding crass, I think you already know what you have to do. The winter tires will cause an excess of road noise on dry pavement. I doubt you will ever need them in the area of the world you are in, so would highly suggest you replace them with some good summer tires. The first bushing you are describing sounds like the strut mount at the strut tower. If this is worn out, it to will cause excessive road noise. The second bushing you are describing sounds like an engine mount or torque bar. Again, this is another item, if worn significantly, will cause an excessive amount of engine vibration to enter the cabin. Getting all three of these things replaced should greatly reduce the amount of road noise/vibration you are hearing when you drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T01:50:51.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T05:28:02.990" Score="0" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorbikes.be/en/Honda_Activa_2005.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Activa&lt;/a&gt; which is of a 2007 make. After three years during a heavy traffic jam the conveyer belt got heated up and burnt due to continuous acceleration and braking. I got it serviced and from then onwards the Vehicle has to be serviced after every 2-3 weeks. This servicing is getting heavy on my time(if I give them in the morning then they will take two days to get it serviced completely) and pocket(charges for shock absorbers and the brake etc. make the bill to around 1,500-2,000 INR/- ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I go and complain about the shock absorbers which are not giving any comfort given the pathetic roads present. The  battery goes down after 2 weeks and gives the burden on the Head lights getting dim. The list goes on and the biggest problem is availability of spares for older model due to which it sometimes takes even three days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest me what are the exact problems that I need to specify to get it serviced perfectly.(Before giving it for service I need to specify what exactly the problem I am facing if I miss out even one single problem then I have to wait another 7 days to get it serviced)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you suggest me to continue with the servicing or go in for a new model or take another gearless from another company like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukimotorcycle.co.in/access125_detailsprice.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Suzuki access 125&lt;/a&gt;, hero maestro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6621" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T06:00:31.593" Title="Why do i have to service my gearless Honda Activa every 2 weeks" Tags="|honda|battery|suspension|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11660" CreationDate="2014-08-04T06:00:31.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want them to service it &quot;perfectly&quot;; it'd be prohibitively expensive, much more expensive than the scooter's replacement value. Sure, you'd have a nearly essentially brand-new scooter... but it'd still have some of the weaknesses of age and torture. Metal does fatigue over time, especially if it's subjected to rough use (you mentioned poor road conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For YOUR purposes, it may be more cost-effective to replace the scooter than to chase repairs on this one; you don't sound like the sort of person who's comfortable with wrenches in both hands and a scredriver in their back pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to brand... that's a very personal choice. Is that scooter listed in Consumer Reports? CR is an excellent way to predict, with some degree of confidence, the reliability and repairability of all sorts of equipment - scooters included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other people around you riding? Notice especially things that people are riding that're OLD. That's often a decent indicator of general reliability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T06:00:31.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11577" CreationDate="2014-08-04T11:05:48.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be due to bad or corroded connections at tail light plug. I thin you should check the connections the fuse. May be the two filaments are separately fused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5097" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T11:05:48.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11673" CreationDate="2014-08-04T13:12:07.553" Score="0" ViewCount="5327" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the difference between a &lt;strong&gt;BMW 320i e36&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;BMW 325i e36&lt;/strong&gt;, Does the &lt;strong&gt;325&lt;/strong&gt; engine offer much more power than the &lt;strong&gt;320&lt;/strong&gt; engine, what are the Pros and Cons of each one, Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6520" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T22:03:57.897" Title="BMW 320i e36 VS BMW 325i e36" Tags="|engine|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-08-05T03:10:44.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11665" CreationDate="2014-08-04T14:20:56.650" Score="1" ViewCount="2324" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Civic sedan: 1997 150i&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so on my home from the shop I notice at a stop that as I push the clutch down and put the gear lever into neutral, there's a soft, slight rattle before the normal sound my car makes when it's Idling, I make a stop at the garage for fuel &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after I'm done getting fuel, I start up the engine, only this time the rattle is louder and I can feel it shaking on my foot that's on the clutch. I drive home slowly and after having a look I find that it's the motor that has two belts connected to it seems like the main motor/'turning thing', cos it's turning everything else on the belts and even though it doesn't look very loose, my front wheels (front wheel drive) and gear lever is shaking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can anyone tell me what that double wheel turning the belts is called and whether it's just that that's loose or could it be a more serious problem? I need my car running by saturday morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T15:29:34.777" Title="wheel/pulley coming out of my engine is making a loud rattling noise" Tags="|civic|belt|gears|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11664" CreationDate="2014-08-04T15:29:34.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 'double wheel turning the belts' is called the crankshaft pulley. Some vehicles have a pulley assembled in two 'halves' and are bonded together to form the crankshaft pulley. In the bonded arrangement it now becomes a 'crankshaft engine damper'. If the bonding becomes detached to any extent the damper will allow and even cause engine vibrations, and will need to be replaced. You say you get noises and vibrations when operating the clutch pedal. In this event your problem will more than likely be your clutch release bearing or clutch diaphragm spring failing. In either of these events you will need to have your clutch overhauled. Let your local repair shop advise on which end of the engine is at fault.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T15:29:34.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-08-04T15:41:43.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 320i is 2071cc, whilst the 325i 2495cc. I do not have the performance figures to hand but would imagine that very real and significant differance on the road are not there. In Europe, some vehicles are fitted with slightly bigger engines to accomodate such things as AirCon systems, or, slightly smaller engines to comply with lower taxation charge bands. Maybe there is a BMW fan out there who will expand on this question further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T15:41:43.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T20:43:26.797" Score="1" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;1994 Ford 7.5 liter. #3 plug wire on passenger side has blown through the boot at the plug&#xA;three times in the last 2000 miles. What is causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6627" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T23:06:14.117" Title="What would cause a blowout of the boot on the sparkplug wire at the plug?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11669" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:42:34.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Na, can't happen. It might be TUGGED out by something (possibly snagging on something, then engine torque pulling it out), but it CANNOT be blown out of the boot. There's nothing there to exert pressure - only the spark plug itself, the wire, and the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's the slightest, most remote possibility that the spark plug's inner electrode has somehow burned all the way through from end to end, and compression is blowing back through the now-hollow spark plug, but that possibility's so remote as to be VIRTUALLY impossible. One in a hundred trillion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:42:34.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:47:47.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the only thing that changed between then (ran fine) and now (won't fire) is carburetors / fuel, and if it now won't fire on ether, then either your ignition timing is suddenly far out of whack for totally coincidental reasons or else your spark plugs are now too wet (with fuel) to fire from flooding. Pull out the plugs, let them air out, let the cylinders air out. When you can no longer smell fuel from the spark plug holes, put the plugs back in &amp;amp; try again to start - this time with no choke at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the plugs are out, clean them up &amp;amp; check their gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:47:47.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:51:54.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shrader valve is the definitive seal. The cap is there to keep dirt &amp;amp; crud out of the Shrader valve. The plastic threads on those caps aren't enough to hold more than a few pounds of pressure, and there's no way to get Teflon plumber's tape on those threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... you might replace the Shrader valve, or at least reseat it (that often does the job - just loosen &amp;amp; retighten several times). DO THIS with NO pressure on the AC system! Under pressure, a Shrader valve can go through your chest very much like a small bullet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:51:54.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11663" CreationDate="2014-08-04T22:03:57.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_E36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, the 320i engine actually displaces 1,991cc, while producing 150hp @ 5900rpm. This engine also produced 140 ft lbs or torque, though from 1991-1994 it did it @ 4700 rpm, and the from 1994-1998 (assuming a midyear engine switch) it produced it @ 4200rpm. It was used in the E36 vehicles from 1991-1998. The 325i engine displaces 2494cc, and produces 192hp @ 5500rpm, so the power occurs sooner without the need for the higher revs (allows engine to last longer producing more horse power - with everything else being equal). It also produces 181 ft lbs of torque, though, like it's 320i brother, it is split from 1991-1993 producing this peak torque @ 4700rpm and from 1993-1995 producing it @ 4200rpm. Both engines are dual overhead cam 6 cylinder engines, sporting 24-valves for ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What all this is saying is, the 325i has about 28% more horsepower and about 29% more torque. Considering that the vehicles are about the same weight, this is a distinct advantage the 325i has over the 320i. You would definitely be able to feel this by the old seat-of-the-pants meter. There are two main cons to the 325i, those being worse gas mileage and higher cost. Ownership costs (maintenance) should be about the same otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T22:03:57.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T23:33:19.300" Score="1" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I jump started my daughter's vehicle which is a 6 cylinder with my Toyota 4 cylinder. Will that affect my Toyota car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it was a existing problem and jump starting it made it worse. Because my car battery looks like it still holds a full charge and my car still starts. What could have happened or what could it be cause, my car seemed to slip into gears a bit. And I just discovered the shake and sputter is only when it's in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6629" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T22:12:05.187" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T22:12:05.187" Title="What's with my Toyota Tercel after I jump started another person's vehicle?" Tags="|toyota|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T23:48:39.580" Score="1" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current car is a 2004 Honda Civic. I put a ball and electric for lights for a trailer on it right after I got it and have been pulling stuff with it for ~9 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has been through the ringer and I'll be replacing it soon (10 years, 180k+, overheating and the cost to fix will be more than it's worth). I want another car... and I want to be able to pull light loads. I assume the damage done to car - and it's current state - is at least partly due in part to pulling a trailers across country (from San Diego, to St Louis, to Phenix Alabama, to Wilmington De... not all in one go mind you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for in a new/newer car that will make it more accommodating to pulling? I'm not talking about daily, or even weekly... but I do have 2 trailers and this will be my main transportation (shown below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for clarification:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to stress I'm looking to do this safely and efficiently, which I probably haven't focused on as much in the past. I'm looking for few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent gas mileage while not pulling. My Civic gets ~33mpg and it's 10 years old. (I know mileage will be lower while pulling... much less pulling a square box)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent pulling capability - for a car. There are a few cars that have some ability. I've found a few lists like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-13-best-cars-for-towing-for-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; which include cars with 1500 pound pulling capacity like the Toyota Corolla and Accura ZDX. I understand this isn't a Dodge Durango, a Ford F 350 or tractor trailer - but I don't need that much &quot;oomph&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety. I've pulled the bigger trailer below across country. Right or wrong, the car has stood strong until recently and I've never &quot;overloaded&quot; the trailer - nor have I paid attention to things like curb weight, tongue weight, GVRW, GCWR, etc. When pulling, I keep ample space between me and whats ahead of me - but the car most likely isn't rated to what I've been doing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe adding breaks to the trailer, since that takes stress off of the puller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;removed math&lt;/strong&gt; Corrected understanding of tongue weight (downward force on ball) and towing capacity (total weight of pulled trailer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some resources I've found so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-13-best-cars-for-towing-for-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cars with towing capacity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/list_7543378_honda-civic-towing-specifications.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honda Civic Towing Specifications&lt;/a&gt; - what I hope is good explanations of stuff like Tongue weight that I've never considered before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looktrailers.com/gallery/trailers/1228/sp/Pace_Journey_Cargo_2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pace Journey specs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=2003091748233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2004 Honda Civic Specs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are more or less my trailers (Same shape/size if not exact same model): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kicQF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enclosed Trailer&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w5oz0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6630" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:06:32.943" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:06:32.943" Title="Cars pulling trailers" Tags="|honda|civic|trailer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-08-23T22:48:42.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11675" CreationDate="2014-08-05T00:00:50.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the tongue weight on that box trailer when it's loaded? From the configuration, I'm betting it's pretty seriously heavy. Might even be a chore to lift the tongue by hand when it's empty. Assuming that's the case, I'd lean pretty hard towards either a half-ton pickup or a full-sized van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've towed a horse trailer configured like that box trailer before, carrying only a little 400lb pony. My half-ton truck struggled with it. I'd NOT see you pulling something like THAT - especially loaded - with any Civic, not even heavily modded with a 5th wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T00:00:50.593" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11674" CreationDate="2014-08-05T00:08:16.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new symptoms are VERY probably not related to the jumpstart, especially if you didn't have any &quot;spark incidents&quot; during the jumpstart. One quick doublecheck: At night, turn your headlights on without starting the car. It helps to have a white garage door or something similar to reflect your headlights. Note how bright they seem, and their color - orange, yellow, white, bluewhite. Now start the car and let it idle. Do the headlights DARKEN or become redder, or did they BRIGHTEN and become whiter? Give it a little gas - not a lot, just a bit. Again, did the headlights darken towards red, or did they brighten towards bluewhite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If starting the car &amp;amp; giving it gas makes the headlights brighten towards bluewhite, your charging system is working just fine. If they get darker/redder, your alternator is NOT charging your battery... which MIGHT POSSIBLY be enough to make your car run poorly, but only if the battery is now dangerously low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the hood &amp;amp; doublecheck your spark plug cables. It's possible that one of them got bumped or tugged during the jumpstart. If your &quot;Check Engine&quot; light is on, get the OBDII codes from a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not at all inappropriate for a 4cyl car to jumpstart a 6cyl car. I've jumpstarted a semi (no lie) with a VW. Had to connect to it twice, once for each of the semi's batteries. A LITTLE vehicle can easily jumpstart a HUGE vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T00:08:16.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9897" CreationDate="2014-08-05T00:45:17.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you done a compression and leakdown test on that cylinder? If it is oil, and it is coming through the spark plug socket, you've got a couple of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Oil is probably getting into the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the plug, check if it has oil on the electrode, or if it's clean. Check the hole for oil on the threads. Perform a compression and leakdown test. Check the plugs in the other cylinders as well. The rings or valve seals could be worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The spark plug socket is not fully sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach a leakdown/commpression test hose and fill the cylinder with air pressure. Place a little soap/water mix around the base of the test hose. Look for air bubbles coming out at the top of the socket. Perform the compression and leakdown tests as well. If the hole has become out of round enough to leak, you'll probably need to replace the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T00:45:17.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-05T01:48:46.933" Score="2" ViewCount="2993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata. Check engine light is on, and I'm getting an error code P0171, Bank 1 System too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I'd start eliminating problems, so when I ran an ODB check, what I got was a lot of monitors were in Ready mode, except the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EVAP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've driven around countless miles, but somehow I can't get these monitors in ready. The first thing I've started with was checking the O2 sensor. I can't figure out which O2 sensor I'm checking, and I don't know where Bank 1 is. I'm not sure if I pulled out the right sensor, but I think the sensor before the converter would be bank 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images are provided: (This is a sensor that I haven't yet pulled out just yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kew5E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the sensor I think that won't go in ready mode, but I'm not sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CvNeX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above sensor was a sensor right below the sensor in the first picture, going into a pipe, I'm assuming the exhaust to the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible you guys happen to know what 02s I need to check? Again, it shows the O2S not in Ready mode, and I've driven for a while and it still isn't on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error code is &lt;strong&gt;P0171 Bank 1 System Too Lean&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T02:55:47.757" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T02:55:47.757" Title="2001 Hyundai Sonata System too lean" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|p0171|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11682" CreationDate="2014-08-05T01:56:48.690" Score="1" ViewCount="4968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 1200 amplifier connected in my car. I have two 4 gauge wires connected to my amp (One that connects to the red side of the front car battery and the other that connects to the black side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference in quality from all 3 types of gauges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T10:54:07.887" Title="Should I use 4, 2, or 0 gauge wires for powering an amplifier from the car battery?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9897" CreationDate="2014-08-05T03:12:21.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't believe that you're leaking fluid from a spark plug hole. Like Paulster2 above, I'd like to see what happens when that area of the motor is cleaned thoroughly so we can start looking at this thing fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the opposite end of the spark plug is a cylinder full of fire and very high pressure. If anything leaks into that cylinder (say during idle time or sporadically during intake strokes), it'll be introduced to that fire shortly. If it's flammable, it'll burn. Oil's flammable, which is why the upper end of the combustion chamber is so hard to keep lubricated - the stunningly thin layer of oil that gets deposited there on every piston upstroke gets burned away during the power stroke. LARGE amounts of oil - too much to burn - wind up very quickly fouling the spark plug, resulting in a misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If liquid leaking into the combustion chamber is NOT flammable, it gets vaporized by the heat and pressure of combusion on every power stroke. The only qualifying liquid would be water-coolant mixture, and we know what leakage of water-coolant into the combustion chamber looks like - clouds of dense white smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ENOUGH nonflammable liquid reaches the combustion chamber to not be fully vaporized, again we wind up with a misfire, and we should expect that leakage to continue after the motor is shut off because the engine's still hot. Such a continued leakage into an idle cylinder would likely build up quite a charge of it in there, too much to compress on the next compression stroke. Result: hydrostatic lock, itself definitely leading to a no-start condition and possibly leading to catastrophic damage to the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seal between a spark plug and the head isn't a marvelous seal, but it's really pretty good. Always. It has to be, because it has to hold up against potentially thousands of pounds of pressure during every power stroke with no detectable leakage - if it leaked exhaust gases during power strokes, you'd be able to feel hot puffs of those exhaust gases around the back of the plug. If it carried liquid, it wouldn't seep, it's blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely oil than water-coolant, because oil can withstand engine operating temperature without vaporizing off quickly, while water-coolant can't. But... not leaking from the plug hole. Leaking from ABOVE the plug hole, from the valve cover or a crack in the head (also not likely, since that area of the head doesn't carry oil under pressure, it carries &quot;waste&quot; oil under no particular pressure back to the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's get that area cleaned, let it run for a short while, and pull that plug for another close examination. A little white paper (toilet paper or paper towel works well) will point out the highest moist spot in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:12:21.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11680" CreationDate="2014-08-05T03:28:37.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly nothing, nothing measurable at all. Your audio amp will never carry as much current as your jumper cables, and #6 jumper cables will carry the massive current it takes to start your car when the battery's nearly dead. If the power wire feeding your audio amp is larger than the wire running from your alternator to the battery to POWER that audio amp, then it's wasted copper - you can't pull more power than your alternator can supply without gradually draining your battery while you drive. Further, that one alternator wire carries power not only for your amp, but also for the headlights, taillights, heater blower, wiper motor, and ignition... plus any other extras your car might have (electric windows, etc). That ONE wire carries it all, so there's no need for anything bigger than that one wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm betting your alternator wire is a #8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:28:37.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11699" CreationDate="2014-08-05T05:35:03.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4785/rumbling-noise-related-to-road-speed&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; and this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1456/creaky-banging-sound-when-going-over-bumps&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; before posting but neither of them solves my problem because in my case the suspension is good and there is no bumps in mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hatch back Maruti Suzuki Swift which I drive on normal roads with asphalt. But recently due to some construction work nearby there's crane marks on the road all the way and when my car moves on that it gives a rumbling noise in the inside.I had stopped the car for inspection of the suspension and shock absorbers and everything was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When everything is fine then why did I get this noise is it normal to have some rumbling noise in the inside when you car is driven over the crane marks on a Asphalt road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rumbling increases with the increase in speed isn't there any way that I can avoid this noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6621" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T14:09:18.550" Title="Why does the car give rumbling sound when passed over the road with small patches made by crane's" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11675" CreationDate="2014-08-05T07:48:06.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a Diesel pickup. They're much nicer these days than they were 20 years ago. Or something with at least a V6 engine and RWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T07:48:06.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11675" CreationDate="2014-08-05T08:57:27.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to look at the maximum rated towing weight for the car - this is the weight that car car can pull, and stop, safely (though not necessarily quickly or economically). I don't know about the US, but all manufacturers selling cars in the EU are required to calculate this, and stamp it on the VIN plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weight needs to be more than the maximum gross weight (MGW) of the trailer - i.e. the weight of the trailer itself, plus the maximum load - again, over here that has to be calculated by the manufacturer and stamped on the trailer's ID plate, but again it might be different for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you can get a properly rated hitch for the vehicle too - easy enough for pickups and vans as they are commonly used for towing, but possibly harder or more expensive for smaller or less common vehicles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T08:57:27.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11679" CreationDate="2014-08-05T10:30:49.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bank 1 on any engine is the bank that carries No 1 cylinder. Sensor1 is the first sensor from where the exhaust manifold bolts onto the engine/head. Some scans will show an 'N/A' on a four cylinder engine for Bank2. This means that the ECU is programmed for a four cylinder, but can be programmed for a 6 or 8 cylinder vee using differant software. Your vehicles ECU software monitors must all run to set all components to Ready, this is called a drive cycle. Your EVAP system is tested by a leakage test with a scanner, which will also check the systems purge valve and pressure sensor. Any system leaks can be found with a smoke test. The EVAP system needs the O2 sensor to be working correctly on a drive cycle to set the EVAP to Ready. The O2 sensor can be tested by a propane test. The Cat uses a second dedicated sensor after the Cat to monitor the Cat's performance, to pass the Cat to Ready. Correct testing of components in essential, anything else is a guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T10:30:49.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11680" CreationDate="2014-08-05T10:54:07.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic differance between the differant thickness of cables is their resistance. A short thick cable has less resistance then a long thin one. Resistance in a cable causes heat. Heat causes melting of the cable, and may cause a fire. Once you know how many amps are going to be in the circuit, pick your cables by their rated ability to carry that amperage. To protect your vehicle electronics and electrical equipment, run ANY accessories on a supplementary circuit. This means taking a cable from the battery to an added in fusebox, and from the added fusebox to the accessories circuits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T10:54:07.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11683" CreationDate="2014-08-05T15:57:46.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is a light-weight-build mass volume vehicle and under hard conditions would be susceptable to drumming. Never the less, your vehicle should be inspected for suspension, wheels and hubs, steering and exhaust being present and correct and in servicable condition. The recent deterioation in your local roads may be emphasising an already present problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T15:57:46.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11693" CreationDate="2014-08-05T16:02:10.167" Score="3" ViewCount="6949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both my turn signals will, what appears randomly, flash faster then return to normal. They can repeat this cycle any number of times or not at all. I asked my husband to to check all the lights and he said they all looked fine/worked. So I don'think it's a bad bulb. I want to say that I notice this more idling at a stop light and it's really hot or really cold outside (either 90 degrees F or 32 degrees F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T17:50:52.803" Title="Why does my turn signals intermittently flash fast?" Tags="|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2014-08-05T17:36:14.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, and I was getting OBDII error codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2626 Hyundai - HO2S Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open Bank 1 Sensor 1&#xA;.. and later, I also got&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2196 Hyundai - HO2S Signal Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car was sputtering, somewhat intermittently. It would intermittently lose power rather suddenly while accelerating. The egine was also cutting out while idling at stop signs/traffic lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this thread, and I decided to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor first before replacing the O2 sensor. I used CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($8), and sprayed it all over the exposed wires and plates inside the MAF sensor. It made a notable difference, and the sputtering/stalling seems to be gone. I cleared the OBDII error codes, and so far the O2 sensor codes above have not returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6637" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T17:36:14.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2014-08-05T17:41:43.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you drop by your local plumbing shop and ask them for a &quot;test thermometer&quot; with a range up to 212*F, they'll sell you a neat little tool to keep in your toolbox. It'll have a fully round dial with a 6&quot; steel probe sticking out of its back. The tip of the probe is the sensitive spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fully mechanical device, never needs batteries, has no electronics to die, and may last past the end of your own life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it doubt about something like this, a test thermometer is the low-tech (reliable) way to determine temperature - insert the probe tip into a bolt hole on the intake manifold, or electrical-tape it to the upper radiator hose, or push it firmly (but not enough to damage things) between a pair of radiator fins near the upper radiator hose. It'll tell you what your temperature really IS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your history, including the two OBDII codes and also given that your temp gauge is so slow to rise, and further given that a thermostat is a simple &amp;amp; cheap thing to replace... I'd suggest you swap it out with a known good thermostat and see what glints up from your goldpan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T17:41:43.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11690" CreationDate="2014-08-05T19:34:31.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is symptomatic of a loose or poor earth on the lamps. It may be either the front or the rear earthing point. The other item to consider is the indicator/hazard unit, it may be starting to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T19:34:31.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-05T20:55:02.347" Score="10" ViewCount="6548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a total of 4 fuel injectors in my hand, and was wondering how I'd go about cleaning them, and how to tell if they're any good. I do get a loss of mileage, and my engine hesitates a lot. And i did receive a p0171 code. So i thought i'd check the injectors first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But do you guys know any good ways to clean this? It's ridiculous to go in to a professional and pay all that money when i have them in my hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdhvX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these are all four, but the very top one has a crack around the ring, would that classify as a bad injector that needs replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all of my O-rings look perfect, so I don't think that's an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T08:33:01.403" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T15:48:58.490" Title="Cleaning fuel injectors" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11611" CreationDate="2014-08-06T07:47:21.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clutch disengages crankshaft movement from the gearbox. Crankshaft and part of the clutch assembly turn, other part of the clutch assembly, gearbox and wheel do not come along.&#xA;Neutral gear disengages gears from each other inside the gearbox. Crankshaft, clutch assembly and part of the gearbox move, other part of the gearbox and wheel do not. &#xA;So the two are separate things. If it actually is in neutral, then clutch problems don't prevent turning the engine round and starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you felt friction while rolling the bike around determine it's source. Lift wheels up one by one and see which one has friction. Brake pistons can get jammed, brake pads can get rusty. If the front wheel is problematic then this of course has nothing to with starting but should be addressed before going to ride anyway. If rear wheel has friction try to hear where it comes from, brakes should make some sound if dragging. Otherwise it probably is not in neutral but in some high gear. You might need to move gears in gearbox around a little to successfully get it to neutral - make rear wheel move and that moves the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery is definately most frequent problem source in starting motorcycles after a long time. Get it charged. Simply do it.&#xA;I recently learned that battery's ability to turn the starter around is not an indication that the battery can provide sufficient voltage to electronic ignition at the same time. Electronics require some minimum voltage to work at all and high current flowing to starter pulls battery voltage down.&#xA;Also check that the battery terminals are clean and wires connected nice and strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After charging the battery also look into the possibilities of fuel going bad and cylinders having excess friction as other people have suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T07:47:21.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11694" CreationDate="2014-08-06T09:58:08.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The injectors you have shown in your pictures are not servicable items. They can be tested using the appropriate service machinery. You should be able to get a new set of external seals though. When tested professionally they are tested for their electrical performance, delivery performance, and spray pattern over varying fuel pressures and voltages. Anything other than a professional test is a waste of time and inconclusive. There is also a safety concern when they are interfered with in an amateur way. Modern vehicles are a lot more complex than ever before, especially because of the all-embracing electronics used today. Service centres and garages have to make a large investment in their equipment and this has to be charged back out. If the cost of testing is too great for you to afford then you are left with the only option of buying new replacement injectors. In the tank fuel additives never live up to the blurb on the can, and can even make matters worse by releasing contaminates to go around the fuel system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T09:58:08.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5573" CreationDate="2014-08-06T13:01:16.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't address the stalling - that COULD have had any of a very wide variety of causes. That loud whining noise, though - that was just when you had the key turned to &quot;Start&quot;, right? And it quit immediately when you released the key? If so, then it would have been the starter motor's &quot;Bendix&quot; (overrunning clutch for the starter drive gear) spinning... which would call for replacement of the Bendix. There's a remote possibility, too, that the ring gear on the flex plate has a broken tooth or two - that'd be made evident by a history of that sort of thing happening, but only about once per hundred starts (the ring gear has a LOT of teeth, so the chances of accidentally landing on the broken one / two are pretty slim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stalling... VERY hard to tell from here. Got a &quot;Check Engine&quot; light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:01:16.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11694" CreationDate="2014-08-06T14:00:44.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of choices here, neither of which includes you cleaning these yourself. You do not have the equipment or chemicals to correctly or efficiently clean and flow test these injectors. It is important to ensure each of the injectors flows the same amount of fuel in a given time at a specified fuel pressure. Only a professional service can provide this for you. You cannot just spray your injectors with carb cleaner and expect them to be clean and work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves you one of two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can replace your injectors with new ones, or for a better price (approximately half), you can purchase rebuilt ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you can have yours sent out for rebuild. In doing so, the rebuilders will clean yours (probably with an ultrasonic cleaning machine, something like what is used to clean jewelry, but with chemicals to clean the injectors correctly and safely), replace any worn parts, check the electrics (solenoids, connections), and flow test them to ensure each is flowing the correct amount and the spray patterns look good. This process is a little cheaper than buying rebuilt ones, but you have the time factor involved in shipping and down time of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You made mention of your o-rings looking good. If these are the original o-rings, I can almost guarantee you they need to be replaced. While there might not be any visual damage to the o-rings, they do harden over time and conform to the hole which they have been stuck in for all those many miles. If they are left alone, they will provide many, many miles of worthy service. Once they are dislodged from their holes, trying to put them back is not only difficult, it will almost assuredly allow for leakage of air past them, exacerbating your lean condition. New o-rings are cheap. If the o-rings are original, they need replaced. Ensure you put fresh oil opinion them to help in insertion and to help guard against damage during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equal flow is important to the injectors. If they do not flow equally, you might have lean conditions in one cylinder while having a rich condition in another. This will create a power imbalance in your engine which creates more wear and tear. Your engine will last much longer if it is functioning correctly, as well as it will run much smoother all the while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T14:00:44.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11683" CreationDate="2014-08-06T14:09:18.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, it seems like you are hearing normal sounds of operation while running over rough spots in the road created by cranes running down the road and creating divots in the road which are equally spaced apart. This can cause an extreme amount of noise in the cabin as you drive. Here in the state of Virginia (and in other states here in the US), they intentionally put &quot;rumble strips&quot; just beyond the edge of the outside lane. This is there to get a driver's attention should the stray beyond what is normally the driving lanes. I will tell you it will wake you up fast! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, if you don't like how these bumps in the road create the interior noises in your vehicle, I suggest you don't drive on these roads - find an alternative route to get you to your destination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T14:09:18.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-06T20:17:31.060" Score="3" ViewCount="4739" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would a bad fuel injector cause plug not to fire? Weird voltages at harness for cylinder 3 compared to other cylinders. No spark at plug. Coil and plug new and tested on other cylinders. I am leaning toward computer.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6277" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T20:29:08.767" Title="2003 Ram 1500 4.7 Misfiring Cylinder 3" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|wiring|truck|ram|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-06T20:41:42.483" Score="2" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;What methods are there to &quot;fool proof&quot; raising a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long search, some of the items I found include using ramps and jack stands (which ones are safest?) , placing tree stumps underneath and chocking the rear wheels (can also the front be chocked on a ramp?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the above sound ideas and what other methods are there to fool proof raising a vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="1831" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T20:57:35.013" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T21:00:11.480" Title="Safest method to raise a vehicle, with multiple safety nets?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11702" CreationDate="2014-08-06T21:25:05.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing - NOTHING - is foolproof. People get killed every year by &quot;foolproof&quot; things. There are lots of ways to improve your chances of NOT becoming one of those statistics, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost... any time you or anyone else will be underneath a vehicle, make sure that something else is under the car with you - something THICKER than your head, THICKER than your chest, and strong enough to withstand the full impact of your vehicle falling on it WITHOUT yielding. It needs to be wide enough to spread the falling vehicle's load over plenty of ground surface - if it's thin, the falling vehicle may simply drive it into the ground like a stake. I like big truck wheels under a vehicle with me - they're large, they're thick, they're astoundingly strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT use concrete blocks as sacrificial &quot;vehicle catchers&quot;, and ESPECIALLY don't use them with the webs horizontal. They simply won't tolerate either the impact or the weight. Not reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even big commercial pneumatic or hydraulic or pneumatic-hydraulic lifts should not be used to hold a vehicle in the air while people are under it UNLESS a failsafe is used to catch the vehicle in the event the lift's valves fail. The same applies to chain-operated lifts; chains can and do break. Again, I've seen commercial lifts drop vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ramps... are useless and dangerous IF they're not built heavily enough to easily handle the vehicle's resting weight. They're also useless if the ground is so soft that they can be pushed into it by the vehicle's resting weight, or if the ground is so sloped that the vehicle can tip (in any direction) off the ramp, or tip over the ramp itself. Don't laugh, I've seen ramps fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using ramps, always chock the wheels that are NOT on a ramp. It's a good idea, too, to set chocks ahead of those same wheels just before you drive up a pair of ramps, with the chocks carefully laid out at the right distance such that the non-ramped wheels come into contact with the chocks just as the ramped wheels are ready to roll off the far side of the ramps. Again, I've seen people overdrive their ramps, resulting in the car looking silly with ramps under the doors instead of under the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, jack stands are useless and dangerous if they're not built heavily enough for the vehicle, or if they can be pushed into the ground, or if they can fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the safest ways I know to lift a vehicle a short distance is to use short pieces of wood planks stacked up to the necessary height. The planks need to be on a level concrete floor, and they should be AT LEAST as wide as the tires they're supporting. If long enough, they can be used as simple ramps, even. Even up on stacked planks, though... you should never be under there without a &quot;catcher&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't screw around with your life. If you ever catch yourself thinking &quot;that's probably good enough&quot;, rethink. If you're ever going to get old, it should be several times as good as it NEEDS to be... and there should always be AT LEAST TWO solid things between that car and your headstone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T21:25:05.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11731" CreationDate="2014-08-06T21:59:17.727" Score="7" ViewCount="3290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought my first car (used) and noticed that there appears to be a significant chip to the paintwork on the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ntmdq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chipped Paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anybody explain the level of damage there is to the paint?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the damage cause me problems down the line (corrosion for example)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jewelultra.com/diamondbrite.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiamondBrite&lt;/a&gt; applied to the car, will this offer me any additional protection?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I right to expect that the dealer should repair the damage, or is it my own fault for not noticing prior to the sale?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could I do to repair / protect the damaged section?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6624" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T12:15:18.863" Title="Is my Paint damaged beyond repair?" Tags="|paint|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11704" CreationDate="2014-08-07T03:17:16.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is that dust or pollen I see around the chipped spot, or are those spots part of the finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here... it looks like you have a clearcoat failure, the color coat being spared (for the moment). What THAT means is that your clearcoat is probably chemically incompatible with the paint underneath it - I'd bet it was shot on not very long before the sale - and the future of this car includes a leprous-looking period. That future has begun, and will continue until either that clearcoat is removed ENTIRELY, down to bare metal, or it's all flaked off &amp;amp; blown away - all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens. A full-up three-coat paint job is one thing, but shooting clearcoat happily over whatever paint has been on a vehicle for years... that's asking for a severe peeling. BEGGING for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a truck that had that sort of leprosy - didn't matter much to me, 'cause the truck was 44 years old and it's a work truck and the price was right. One little blister, crackled, and a year later there's nearly zero clearcoat left on the roof, the hood, or the upper halves of both front fenders. Someone in its past had shot urethane clearcoat over existing enamel color, and the two just aren't compatible with each other. Enamel needs to stick with enamel, lacquer with lacquer, urethane (awful stuff, horribly toxic, but pretty) with urethane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any flaws - even microscopic flaws - in the underlying color coat, water will find those flaws as soon as the clearcoat blistering has exposed them... and it'll start rust bubbles under the paint. The underlying paint job MAY actually be pretty decent, though, if it was a factory job. You may never see anything worse than the texture of a Wookie in dreadlocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of blistering may not have even been visible as of the moment of sale - it's hard to say - but at any rate, at that time you didn't know much about it so... I'd think the dealer really ought to be held responsible for it, especially if they were the ones who did the clearcoat, or hired out the clearcoating to someone else. They SHOULD NOT have done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do... you have two choices, as I see it. You can let it happen, get ragged, and eventually all the clearcoat will fall off &amp;amp; be gone. Or... if that just won't fit into the image you're setting up for yourself, you can take the car to a highly reputable paint shop for a second opinion - they'll tell ya that you need to have it sanded back to bare metal &amp;amp; reshot from the ground up, all over. All trim removed for shooting. Cost ya plenty. On a happier note... you get to choose that car's next color...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T03:17:16.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9317" CreationDate="2014-08-07T03:35:50.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting, how some of these older threads get bumped back to the top for reasons I can't spot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem at hand isn't with that truck, or its brakes, or its tires. The problem is with the tiles - they were never laid correctly in the first place, or they would not have begin breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tiles for an application like this need to be (1) laid over a thick concrete floor with a very uniform, level top surface specially finished for floor tiles. (2) heavy red clay body for compression resistance. (3) bedded fully in a full-buttered coat of thinset mortar with absolutely no air gaps anywhere, pressed firmly into the mortar bed. (4) grouted well. If any of those four isn't true, those tiles will crack. If all four are true, you can nearly drive a battle tank across that floor without breaking tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... I doubt very much that the company will have much interest in relaying that floor, am I right? Such is life. In the long run, it'd save them more money to do the job right - now - than have to deal with this issue appearing again and again. It WILL reappear. Next time it may be a little lightweight vehicle that cracks a tile. It MAY be a heavy person - 830kgs over three tires is less than 300kgs per tire, and a very heavy man tipping up on his toes or his heels can exert more pointed floor pressure than that truck can. Pretty close - your hard tires' footprints are very narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can you do to improve things? Your only option, really, since you're forbidden to use wood (I'd recommend wide planks instead of plywood) will be to make those tires as fat and soft and pillowy as you can, mostly fat. You're going to want to make the tires' footprints as large as possible, so the vehicle's weight is spread over as wide an area as possible. That implies soft tires to make each footprint large &amp;amp; square, and that softness will also take some of the abruptness out of braking &amp;amp; accelerating. Can you at least double the rear tires? It'll make steering worse, since dragging two tires around in a tight circle presents a lot of extra shear stress, but in straight runs it'll spread out that load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger DIAMETER tires would actually help as much as FATTER tires would... but it doesn't look like there's any room on that truck for larger diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T03:35:50.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11702" CreationDate="2014-08-07T08:41:39.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As TDHofstetter says, nothing is foolproof, so use as many backups as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm using stands, I jack the car up with a hydraulic jack, put the stands under, lower it onto them, the try to shake the car to make sure it is solid and well settled onto the stands. I then leave the jack in place as a backup to the stands, and slide a wheel under the sill as another backup. I also minimise the time I spend with any body parts under the car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always wise to chock the wheels that remain on the ground, and apply the handbrake and/or leave it in gear/park to prevent the driven wheels turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure you know the safe places to support the car - these should be listed in the manual, but (if it's an older vehicle) it's worth checking they are properly solid before relying on them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if possible make sure someone knows where you are, or is with you, so if the worst does happen they can rescue you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T08:41:39.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6496" CreationDate="2014-08-07T13:05:06.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tallmaris' means of determining fuel consumed per distance is correct, but could be made more precise by repeating the test several times until at least one thousand, and preferably two thousand, miles have been driven, keeping close track of the fuel consumed traveling those miles... starting with a full tank and ending with a full tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike, too, is correct in that the computer doesn't use the fuel tank float to calculate average mpg - it uses what it THINKS the current fuel consumption rate is, and constantly recalculates a running average, based on what it thinks the flow rate through the injectors is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the original test, the original comparison between calculated average and real average shows very nearly a 10% error. That's not actually very bad. A speedometer is assumed to be accurate only to within about 10%, and a fuel gauge that reads within 10% is a VERY GOOD fuel gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T13:05:06.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-07T14:44:30.763" Score="8" ViewCount="73814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Ford Fiesta which has clocked 110 000km total. When I cross 100-120km/h on a smooth road, the steering wheel starts to vibrate, and the vibration reduces when I reduce my speed. I guessed the problem was in the tires, so I replaced the front tires with new ones, but I still get that vibration at high speeds. I also get these vibrations when I drive at high speed and suddenly slow down towards a bump. Can someone give me an idea for a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6648" LastEditorUserId="4677" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T14:54:10.547" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T21:36:32.663" Title="When driving car at 100-120km/h steering wheel starts to vibrate" Tags="|ford|steering|vibration|fiesta|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11760" CreationDate="2014-08-07T14:49:49.983" Score="2" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Mazda 323 that's in great shape except for in the last few months the car has started to turn on both turn signal lights at random times, draining my battery. If I catch it in time, jiggling the turn signal arm turns them off. Given the age of the car I don't want to take it in for an expensive diagnosis, but I don't want to junk it over this either. Can a novice diagnose and repair something like this, or is it likely to have an obvious cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6649" LastEditorUserId="6649" LastEditDate="2014-08-07T16:20:47.523" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T16:20:38.063" Title="Lights turn on randomly on Mazda 323" Tags="|electrical|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:39:12.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only be getting vibration from the tires so you need to fix that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:39:12.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2014-08-07T16:02:28.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual culprits are one or more of the following (from most- to least likely):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flat spots on tires caused by wheelspin or locking brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unbalanced rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bent rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(very) cheap tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn shock absorbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warped brake rotors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn wheel bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loose wheelnuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn suspension bushings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loose control arms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T16:02:28.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11701" CreationDate="2014-08-07T20:43:51.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As they are 'pencil coils' on your vehicle, you can transfer the supect coil on to a differant plug. If the coil now works correctly whilst the one it was swopped with starts to 'misfire' on number three plug then you know you are dealing with a fault with No.3 cylinder. Secondly try replacing No3 spark plug with one you have removed and know to be working previously. Thirdly, unplug the No 3 injector-just the electrical connection- and measure its resistence with an Ohm meter. Now compare the resistence of any other injector. Your injector is a simple solonoid and can be tested with an Ohm meter. Open circuit on number 3 injector, or a very much lower reading will pinpoint a faulty injector. If every thing runs to expectations then you very well may have a fault on your wiring harness, or blown power diode(s) in your ECU. In this case, and before deciding on any expensive expenditure, have the vehicle scanned with an OEM/compatable scanner. If you have an analogue volt-amp set, do not use it on any modern vehicle. Its low internal resistence will allow it burn out modern electronics. In passing, an Ohm meter must never be used on any vehicle circuit that includes a Hall generator (three wire sensors for example), as the Ohm meters testing voltage will destroy the Hall generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T20:43:51.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11702" CreationDate="2014-08-07T21:00:11.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles are designed primarily to be raised/hoisted by a service quality ramp/hoist, which all have safety features to prevent the ramp dropping. The next safest way to raise a vehicle is with a service quality trolley jack. The trolley jack is used to raise the vehicle and axle stands are placed at the points on your vehicles body to support it in the raised position. The vehicle should be raised on solid ground, and you must not go under the vehicle until it is supported on stands, AND lowered onto those stands. Cheap, weak equipment introduces the dangers that there are in raising vehicles, made worse by familiarity and complacency to those dangers. If you feel you need to have tree trunks and concrete blocks under the vehicle with you, then find a mechanic, local to you, who will demonstrate the correct way to do it.           &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T21:00:11.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11704" CreationDate="2014-08-07T21:09:57.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top coat, lacquer, has been penetrated. Your dealer looking at the paintwork, and your dealer respraying any part of the vehicle are two very differant cases. Depended on how old the vehicle is and how much you paid for it are all parts of the equation. You could go ReTro and have a vinyl roof covering if you end up being stuck with any costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T21:09:57.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T02:00:09.903" Score="3" ViewCount="6105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today the battery light decided to rear its head on my Celica.  I know this normally points to the alternator, but given that I just replaced a bad alternator in my Chrystler, I can tell what a bad one sounds like when running.  As a side note, it's still the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery was replaced over the winter, so I doubt there's anything wrong there.  One thing I can definitely note is that the spark plug wires are loose on the distributor cap and tend to pop off sometimes.  Wondering if that was related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car died after driving it a few miles today, but had no battery light on the way home after charging it up and made the full trip.  I didn't have any problems starting it either.  One last note, the car hadn't been driven in about a month or two until today due to a bad radiator (new radiator was put in today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other details...&#xA;Year is 91&#xA;Toyota Celica ST&#xA;1.6L engine&#xA;approx 70,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6657" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T22:06:54.617" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T22:06:54.617" Title="Toyota Celica battery light on but alternator appears okay on visual/auditory inspection" Tags="|toyota|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11240" CreationDate="2014-08-08T03:11:46.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;When using cruise control and pulling the lever for acceleration RPM goes all the way up giving a sudden push to reach the desired speed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's an important characteristic. That means one of two things: Either (a) your accelerator cable is running into an obstruction that prevents it from opening the throttle further or else (b) (if that car happens to be fly-by-wire) you've got an electronic malfunction of some sort - throttle position sensor, throttle control stepper motor, throttle control module, something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T03:11:46.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T06:15:47.750" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is Nissan Sunny N16. Its ODOmeter display is partially burnt (similar to what happens to a digital watch). When I went to the garage, they say I need to replace the whole dashboard meter board and the price seems to be too high. I was wondering whether I would be buy it from somewhere online. But I dont know the part name to search for (I have done lot of searching, but no luck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a place where I can look for such information or can someone help me on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6658" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T14:38:42.180" Title="Is there a place where we can find out the model numbers of parts used in vehicles" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11728" CreationDate="2014-08-08T08:05:32.990" Score="4" ViewCount="13535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my car in because the starter died. During the multipoint check, they also discovered that the timing belt and the 'package' (all other components related to it) has not been changed since the previous owner had it. (I have a 2003 Accord w/ ~90k miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They told me that the timing belt needed to be changed and that they would not just replace the timing belt because the other parts that are in the system (tensioner, water pump, compressor) all are closely. If there's a new timing belt and the tensioner is old, it may cause improper tension and things would start grinding (I'm sorry that I don't have the exact terminology that the Honda Service mechanic used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went ahead and had the entire Timing Belt 'package' (that's the term they used) replaced.  (According to them, the timing belt is suppose to be changed every 7 years or 100k miles.  Since my car was a 2003, it has been about 11 years...the mechanic said that it looked like the belt has never been changed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I just get duped into getting more service than I needed?  BTW, the cost of it all was about $1200. Is that too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T04:07:06.067" Title="2003 Honda Accord Timing Belt Package replacement - necessary to replace all things related to timing belt?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11726" CreationDate="2014-08-08T08:20:26.993" Score="2" ViewCount="8332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not been able to find a similar question on this topic, so apologies if it is a duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a new car at the beginning of the week and noticed that after using the wiper fluid it leaves behind a 'stain' of sorts and it is marking the paintwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue as to what mixture/concoction of fluid is currently being used, so I have decided it would be best to drain, flush and replace with something I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a 'standard' way to drain wiper fluid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I have 0 mechanical experience and the car in question is a 2011 Ford Fiesta.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6624" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T11:04:34.110" Title="Draining wiper fluid" Tags="|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11722" CreationDate="2014-08-08T08:32:57.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary, but VERY recommendable to change all the related things. I had often enough, that the old water pump got leak after change of timing belt because of different tension. You may be lucky, and nothing will happen. But if, you will have to pay almost the same high price just to change only a water pump, tensioning roller, guide pulley or whatever. Timing belt is a lot of work, so it is better to do is once the right way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T08:32:57.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11721" CreationDate="2014-08-08T08:50:03.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is some part code on the back of dashboard, so you have to unscrew it. But there are not the thousands of different one, so the related information you already have. Just look for one for N16, your made year and engine ( HP and fuel type). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T08:50:03.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11723" CreationDate="2014-08-08T09:12:20.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two ways there: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just drain it empty&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overfill your wiper fluid container with water. That way you could&#xA;wash the old fluid out or at least thin it. Then drain empty again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because to unscrew the wiper fluid container is not so easy without mechanical experience and even danger, I would not do that on your place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T09:12:20.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11723" CreationDate="2014-08-08T11:04:34.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;get your hands on a thin hose or other bendy pipe, stick it in there and start sucking til the fluid comes out. Keep the end you sucked on lower than the bottle and let physics do the hard work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to use a see-through pipe so you can tell when you're about to get a mouthful of soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you refill, it would be a good idea to use methylated spirits or cleaning alcohol diluted (very much) in water. As a bonus it gives off a nice smell in the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T11:04:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11722" CreationDate="2014-08-08T11:12:50.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they have to be changed along with the timing belt. The tensioner pulley doesn't last very long (only as long as the timing belt, or not as long as two timing belts, at any rate) and the water pump is cheap enough anyway. If one of these things decide to break, it will also break your timing belt, which will damage you engine in the most expensive ways. THink bent valves and damaged pistons. That's why the cambelt kit (or package) contains more than just a cambelt. You're paying for the entire package/kit anyway, so you might as well have them install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T11:12:50.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T12:06:34.957" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just backed up into a chain link fence with my new black malibu. Any suggestions on how to get the marks off car? Is it best to bring it somewhere&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6662" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T12:06:34.957" Title="backed up into chain link fence- how to fix the marks on car" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-11-17T21:07:02.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11704" CreationDate="2014-08-08T12:15:18.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After taking the car to the original dealer and two independent body shops they determined that only the lacquer had been removed, probably due to bird poop that was left to eat away at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been assured (from the dealer and both body shops) that ensuring the area is clean before spraying an additional later of lacquer should prevent further degradation/corrosion of the area, and that in this instance an entire respray of the roof is not necessary (although I may end up doing it as the car naturally ages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6624" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T12:15:18.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11719" CreationDate="2014-08-08T13:38:11.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd still suspect the alternator - they don't always get noisy when they fail, as there are multiple things that can fail...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check it with a multimeter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. With the engine off this should be around or just over 12v, and with it running it should be around 14.5v - if it is significantly higher (e.g. 18v) then the regulating circuits have failed, and if it's low (&amp;lt;13v) then the alternator isn't charging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T13:38:11.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11719" CreationDate="2014-08-08T15:28:54.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set your multimeter to the &quot;20 VDC&quot; or similar setting. NOT &quot;AC&quot;, be sure it's on &quot;DC&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the car off, measure between the two battery posts. NOT the clamps, but the posts themselves that are part of the battery. Note the reading - it should be above about 12.5V if the battery is fully charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now start the car and measure again. With the engine idling, you should now read something between about 13.4V and 13.8V. If your helper gives it a little throttle to speed up the engine, it should never rise above about 13.8 unless the weather outside is very cold and everything in the engine compartment is cold (a good voltage regulator will raise the charging voltage in cold weather because car batteries don't charge as readily in the cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read lower than about 13.4V or higher than about 13.8V with the car running, you probably have a voltage regulator problem. If you read lower than about 13.4V with the engine running FAST, you may have a diode trio (inside the alternator) problem. If you read below about 12.5V with the engine running, you have a serious charging issue with any of a number of possible causes - brushes or alternator windings or diode trio or voltage regulator or poor connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read higher than about 13.8V in warm weather, then you definitely have a voltage regulator problem and it needs to be tended to soon, before you boil your battery dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem turns out to be intermittent, make up a simple adapter that fits your cigar/cigarette lighter socket and has two wires - one positive and one negative - extending out of it. The positive wire should be shorter than the negative one, so short that it CANNOT accidentally touch any part of the metal inside the passenger compartment. You can leave the wire ends stripped back about 1/2&quot; and wrap the stripped wire around your multimeter probe tips, even securing the connections with any sort of tape... then you can read voltages while you drive the car. If the battery light comes on again, immediately (as immediately as is safe, of course) glance at the meter to see what the voltage is. If you want to make it a little fancier, you could put an alligator clip on each of the wires to make connection &amp;amp; disconnection simpler &amp;amp; faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T15:28:54.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T16:24:17.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the photo, the cruise control is disconnected from the throttle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried just hooking it back on, but it fell of again. I'm expecting this is due to vibration of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a piece missing which is intended to secure the connection?&#xA;What should I do to fix this correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YaMgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78sUS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="2571" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T16:30:53.417" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T20:35:32.443" Title="1999 suburban cruise control cable disconnected" Tags="|part-identification|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2014-08-08T16:39:59.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that your old oil had built up sludge in your oil galleries - more likely if that oil was based on castor oil - and the new oil dissolved a bunch of that sludge out, making the oil galleries effectively much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T16:39:59.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11735" CreationDate="2014-08-08T16:44:09.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you reconnected it, did you just slip it on or did you push it on until it &quot;clicked&quot;? That's a snap connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's worn so much that it won't snap on any more, you could try running a little spring from that hook thing to the place where the cable sheath stops at that steel bracket (the one with both cables routed through it). The cable core should pass through that hook thing freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T16:44:09.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11719" CreationDate="2014-08-08T18:04:07.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad alternators don't always make noise, and sometimes good alternators can appear to be noisy. That reminds of those guys who check tire pressure by just looking at the tires...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like others have said, don't play the guessing game, go to your local hardware store, grab a multimeter and figure out what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not difficult to test your charging system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGz0PKIl84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diagnosing Alternator Problems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1q40V-BPQc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bad Battery or Bad Alternator, how to tell the difference...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyKexCny9yk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to check battery voltage, alternator voltage, and...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plug wires popping of your cap is not good, but I wouldn't suspect it to turn your battery light on or cause your car to die, unless they are all popping off simultaneously. I would suspect they would cause your vehicle to misfire and throw a trouble code (check engine light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That being said&lt;/strong&gt;, I would suspect a bad alternator. The light and your car dying on the road usually indicates you have a charging problem and the first things I would check are the alternator and battery in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T18:04:07.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T19:10:03.393" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1991 Honda Accord grinds on third gear what could this mean and how can I fix it?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10iQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:14.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:27:14.187" Title="My 1991 Honda Accord grinds on third gear!" Tags="|honda|accord|manual-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11739" CreationDate="2014-08-08T20:22:44.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably means that the synchro which meshes the third gear is bad or going bad. The only fix for this is a rebuild or finding a used replacement for a cheaper alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T20:22:44.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11735" CreationDate="2014-08-08T20:35:32.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as though the clip could be worn out and will no longer hold on the throttle pin. If it is worn out, every time you step on the throttle, it is going to pop off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can replace the clip itself. It looks as though there is a release on the side of it which will allow you to take the clip separate and replace. I believe the clip splits in half and wraps around the cable end. Get a new one (only place to get this is probably at the dealership), or find one at a &quot;you-pull-it&quot; yard for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T20:35:32.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T20:53:07.590" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched all over the internet for something that would replicate my current Air Intake hose, sadly, i cannot find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 01' Hyundai Sonata, 2.4L. When I blow smoke through it ( when it was attached) i didn't see any leaks, however I heard a hissing noise. But is it possible that I can use any type of air intake hose, as long as it has a connection to fit for the MAF? I also cleaned the MAF and i don't think it's a bad sensor, as i've tested it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I literally couldn't find any website with this listed, but here's what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CvQkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's very worn out on the outside, but i looked on the inside of it, and it just looks perfect, and I couldn't find a crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T14:49:30.523" Title="Air Intake hose" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11742" CreationDate="2014-08-08T21:01:18.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I can come up with four options for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some rubber cement and run a small bead around all of the connection points of the hose to make sure they are sealed. Ensure you clean the rubber very well prior to putting any sealant on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to a junk yard (or look online) for a replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find an aftermarket cold air intake as a replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all else fails, go the the dealership and order a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T21:01:18.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11761" CreationDate="2014-08-08T21:38:55.427" Score="2" ViewCount="1623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if covers work well for motorcycle in cold weather, for example -20C. If not, is there an alternative option, assuming garage is not available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6667" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T18:57:56.723" Title="Do motorcycle covers work for cold weather?" Tags="|motorcycle|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T22:36:46.047" Score="0" ViewCount="28196" Body="&lt;p&gt;i got a quick question. I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with 180,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 3 monitors in not ready mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EVAP &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2S &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a check engine line code for p0171, bank 1 system too lean. I think i've fixed the issue, which could've been a dirty MAF, as i couldn't spot any leaks in the air intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm asking is, how do I get these monitors in ready mode? Was it because the system was &quot;Too Lean&quot; that CAT &amp;amp; O2s failed to function? I don't think it's a bad sensor, as it'd throw the CEL on with a sensor that may be bad. Same with the CAT or EVAP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should i do drive cycles after i fixed the p0171 code to see if the monitors will go back in ready mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastEditorUserId="6538" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T22:44:25.987" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T18:28:55.660" Title="Systems not in ready mode to pass emissions" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-08-09T18:51:02.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T23:43:57.043" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on replacing my rear rotors and brake pads this weekend.  The rotors are rusted on.  I was using a rotor puller, and was probably too impatient.  Now I have about 25% of the rotor snapped off.  The rotor is still rusted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can gently try to use the rotor puller around what's left of the rotor.  I could try switching to two bolts and nuts maybe.  Does anyone else have any advice on how to proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Will&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6668" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T03:58:13.797" Title="Rusted Rear Rotor 2004 Chevy S-10" Tags="|brake-rotor|rust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2014-08-09T00:51:35.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you back the emergency brake off, or maybe you have them on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your e-brake is not at issue ... Spray the center section and the stud areas down with PB-Blaster or another very good rust penetrant. Let it sit for several hours. Then beat the heck out of it with a rubber mallet from the backside. What you are looking for is just a little movement on one side, then move to the other side. Two sides should work, but don't be afraid to work it in a triangular pattern. When I say beat it, don't be afraid of it. Hit it like you mean it. A bead blow hammer will work well, also. Don't use a metal hammer, as I'd you swing and miss, you run the risk of hurting something besides the dead rotor, to include yourself. If you get a little movement out of it and it appears to stop moving, pound it back into place and start again. This will help loosen things up and will actually help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T00:51:35.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-09T05:51:43.183" Score="1" ViewCount="27468" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the streets the temp is normal: it has new radiator, head gaskets and brand new thermostat. What is causing this change in temperature. It gets so hot it's almost to the very top close to the H, but as soon as I slow down and drive on the regular streets it starts to cool down to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6670" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T01:00:26.243" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T01:00:26.243" Title="Car gets really hot only when I'm on the highway," Tags="|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11745" CreationDate="2014-08-09T07:56:55.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is a summary of generic OBD II &#xA;drive cycle instructions for a Hyundai: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) should be &#xA;between 14 and 122 degrees F. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barometric pressure should be equal to or &#xA;greater than 75 kPa. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel tank should be between 25 and 75% &#xA;full at the start of the test. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During acceleration, keep throttle 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 open. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During deceleration, slow to less than 15 mph &#xA;at an engine speed of less than 1000 rpm without &#xA;touching the brake or clutch pedal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During cruise, maintain a steady engine speed &#xA;between 1400 and 4000 rpm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At idle speed, keep the throttle closed and the &#xA;gear selector in the Neutral position. &#xA;Remember, these are just the preliminary &#xA;instructions. The actual drive cycle must conform &#xA;exactly to the following instructions, or the &#xA;various monitors may not run to completion. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drive cycle begins with a cold engine &#xA;startup. The IAT must be between 32 and 85 &#xA;degrees F. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) &#xA;must be less than 127 degrees F. It may be &#xA;necessary to leave the car with &#xA;you overnight so it can cool down completely. &#xA;The engine coolant and intake air temperatures &#xA;must be within a tight range to complete all of &#xA;the OBD II monitors during the drive cycle. If &#xA;the IAT input is not between 32 and 86 degrees &#xA;F at the beginning of the drive cycle, the EVAP &#xA;monitor will not run. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine and allow it to idle in Park for &#xA;one to two minutes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Within the first minute and a half, accelerate at &#xA;1⁄4 to 3⁄4 throttle to 50-55 mph. Hold that speed for &#xA;2-3 minutes. Unless your shop is very close to a &#xA;major expressway, it may be difficult to satisfy this &#xA;step in the drive cycle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decelerate to 0 mph without braking, then idle &#xA;for 1-2 minutes. If you’re on an expressway, pull &#xA;safely off the road during this segment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerate to 55 mph, using 1⁄4 to 3⁄4 throttle, &#xA;then hold a steady cruise for 10 to 20 minutes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to 0 mph with the engine idling in Park, &#xA;then turn the ignition off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T18:28:55.660" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T18:28:55.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11721" CreationDate="2014-08-09T09:58:18.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern instrument panels in modern vehicles are virtually a part/extension to the vehicles engine ECU. This is to prevent 'clocking' and other activities, like engine tuning. You could try for a replacement instrument from a vehicle breakers, but you may have problems installing it because a used panel may not be accepted by your vehicles ECU as the replacement instrument panel's Component Identity Number (CID) will be differant and will not work with the ECU. It all depends on how up to date your vehicle is with regards to  security. This may be the reason your repairer is saying that you have to have a complete board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T09:58:18.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2014-08-09T10:06:44.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have a cracked head or block on your engine. You may have a faulty water pump. Are all of the hoses fitted correctly? From all the work you have had done it is obvious you have a continuing cooling system problem which has not been diagnosed. Take the vehicle back to the garage that done the repair work and explain to them the vehicle is still running hot and when it does so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T10:06:44.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2014-08-09T11:00:13.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the previous answer, the handbrake adjusment MUST BE fully wound back off. The rotors should have two threaded holes in them which allow a couple of buckshee bolts to be passed through them and bottom on the drive shaft. By tightening them equally and progressively it shoud allow the rotor to 'wiggle' off. But have that penetrating fluid and that good 2lb hammer to hand just in case. The problem lies with the handbrake shoes wearing a groove inside of the rotor drum, or just general corrosion from a lack of use preventing the drum passing over the shoes. There are rare cases of the the shoes friction material becoming un-bonded and jamming inside the drum. As happens, when the drums have to be forced off over the shoes the pins and springs that hold the shoes to its backplate can be easily damaged and may need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T11:00:13.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2014-08-09T11:34:09.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will, you have DISK brakes, correct? And the calipers are off, so the park brake now has nothing at all to do with things, your rotors are just rusted onto the hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things you can do, and you'll probably have to do both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, find TWO ball-peen or similar hammers and a pair of protective glasses. Screw all the lug nuts on for several turns. Rest the head of one hammer lightly on the rotor surface directly between any two of the lug studs and hit the other end of the head with your second hammer. The whole point of using two hammers is to protect the lug nuts and studs - if you accidentally hit them with a hammer, you WILL damage them irreversibly; the first hammer is there ONLY to act as a means of transmitting the hammer impact to the rotor/hub face with minimal risk to the lug nuts &amp;amp; studs. Strike in that spot several times, fairly hard, then move to a spot between the next pair of lug studs and repeat. Go all the way around the hub face that way. SOMETIMES this is enough to get the job done - the hammer impacts transfer through the &quot;buffer&quot; hammer to the rotor face, then transmit through the rotor to the hub face, which &quot;bounces&quot; slightly but violently. That &quot;bounce&quot; gets transmitted back to the rotor, which vibrates in response, and that vibration helps free up the rust binding it to the hub. The hammers should be LIGHTWEIGHT (don't use six-pound hand sledges) so they can bounce, and you need to strike rather HARD with them (a sharp RAP that makes a crisp tapping sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not enough to get the job done, Step 2 involves getting hold of two propane torches. PROPANE torches, the kind used for plumbing. They're cheap, they're common (you may be able to borrow a couple from neighbors), they're handy for lots of other things afterwards, and they're safe for everything you're going to do here. Light BOTH torches, adjust for about as high a flame as they can reasonably do without the flame &quot;storming&quot;, and play the flames on the rotor area between the lug studs - one torch between two lugs, the other torch diametrically opposite, between two OTHER lugs studs. After heating for fifteen or twenty seconds, move both flames to different spots - still staying between the lugs. 'Round and 'round and 'round, just don't hold flame in any one spot for a great long time. You'll get tired, you'll get worried, keep at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal HERE is to heat the ROTOR, which will expand... and the center hole will grow slightly, while the hub center will not expand as fast because the rotor won't transmit heat to the hub as fast as the torches transmit heat to the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some magical point, you'll hear a crisp SNAPping noise, which will be the rotor beginning to release. If you're lucky, it'll release completely and pop out from the hub. If not, keep after the torches until you hear a second SNAP. Have some heavy leather gloves handy to remove the rotor - it SHOULD be pretty hot by this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic, what you can do sometimes with torches.    8)    I've had to do that to release WHEELS, even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The snapping noise won't be the rotor cracking - it's just the sound of release, and doesn't indicate any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever way works for you - hammers or torches - let the hub cool down on its own, then sand the hub center (which registers the rotor's center hole) until you've got shiny metal there... then smear with a SMALL amount of anti-seize compound before you install the new rotor. SMALL amount, only enough to wet the metal... don't daub it on lavishly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T11:34:09.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2014-08-09T14:17:15.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your main coolant hoses going into and out of the radiator. Do this by allowing the engine to be fully warm, then while looking at these hoses, rev the engine up to around 2000-2500 RPM (or have someone do it for you while you observe the hoses). What you are looking for is to see if one of them collapses. What happens is, as hoses get old, they weaken and can collapse under higher engine speeds. The water pump has enough of a draw on the fluids it can collapse the weak hose, causing a lack of fluid flow through the engine, and thus overheating. As soon as the engine speed decreases, the hose goes to normal and cooling resumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T14:17:15.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2014-08-09T15:59:20.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had that problem. My fuel pump was faulty. Eventually it got worse and worse u til I finally had to replace the fuel pump and sensor and filter. I have a 1993 940 Volvo sedan. Remember that Volvos do not always behave or react to symptoms in the same way that American cars do. Best to go with a mechanic who knows Volvos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6679" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T15:59:20.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11712" CreationDate="2014-08-09T16:20:38.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the indicators come on some time after parking up, I am inclined to think that the fault lies with a 'hot' circuit. The hazard lights are hot, connected live electrically all of the time, with the ignition on or off. You proberbly have a faulty indicator/hazard flasher unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T16:20:38.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2014-08-09T18:57:56.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike is sitting for long periods in extreme cold the cover will not help with cold exposure. Wind chill has no effect on inanimate objects. The cover design and material are the biggest factors determining whether or not it is suitable for long term use. As long as the humidity level is fairly low (as it would be in -20 degree temps) the cover won't promote rust. The issues with long term cover use are that if the cover is not a tight fit the wind will blow the cover against the finish and abrade the paint. Another potential issue is that moisture can become trapped under the cover and actually promote corrosion issues. It is important that the cover be of a breathable material. That means that moisture won't penetrate the outside but can evaporate from the inside similar to the way Gortex works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T18:57:56.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T00:02:03.783" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Ford Mustang V6&#xA;My car started having a new problem yesterday. When I drive down the road randomly the pedal loses rpm's. For instance I'll be going 40mph and then there is no resistance on the pedal as if I am idling. I have to put the car in neutral turn it off and turn it back on while it's still rolling to get it to work again. It has happened to me 3 times in the last 2 days. I am getting the following error codes:&#xA;P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 CONFIRMED&#xA;and &#xA;P1233: Fuel Pump Driver Module Off-Line CONFIRMED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 3 months ago I had a used transmission put in by my mechanic and it came with a 6 month warranty. I was wondering if any of these error codes have anything to do with the transmission so it would be covered under the warranty or are these issues not relevant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6680" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:38:22.220" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T13:38:22.220" Title="Error Codes Related to Transmission?" Tags="|engine|ford|mustang|dtc|p0420|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11762" CreationDate="2014-08-10T00:43:17.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problems you are experiencing will have nothing to do with the transmission. Here is what the code explanation is. My feeling is it's with the Fuel pump driver module. It may be going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code: P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description: The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With the key on, the FPDM continuously sends a duty cycle signal to the PCM through the FPM circuit. The test fails if the PCM stops receiving the duty cycle signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Causes:&#xA;Inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch needs to be reset&#xA;Open FPDM ground circuit&#xA;Open circuit to FPDM PWR RLY&#xA;Open FPDM PWR circuit&#xA;Open or shorted FPM circuit (engine should start)&#xA;Damaged IFS switch&#xA;Damaged FPDM PWR RLY&#xA;Damaged FPDM&#xA;Damaged PCM&#xA;Also for Mustang:&#xA;Open B+ circuit to the constant control relay module (CCRM) pin 11&#xA;Open ground to CCRM pin 18&#xA;Damaged CCRM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnostic Aids: The PCM expects to see one of the following duty cycle signals from the FPDM on the FPM circuit: 1) 50% (500 ms on, 500 ms off), all OK. 2) 25% (250 ms on, 750 ms off), FPDM did not receive a fuel pump (FP) duty cycle command from the PCM, or the duty cycle that was received was invalid. 3) 75% (750 ms ON, 250 OFF), the FPDM has detected a fault in the circuits between the FPDM and the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0420 is probably a bad after cat O2 sensor, but check to see if it recurs after clearing the code. If you are to change it and it still comes back, your cat may be failing and would need replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T00:43:17.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T02:31:18.690" Score="2" ViewCount="9527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car is 98' Chrysler Concorde and oil has started flooding out of the radiator. Found a crack in the oil cooler hose and changed that but it still Will not hold the oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6682" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T15:50:56.083" Title="Why would oil be leaking from radiator?" Tags="|oil-leak|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T03:04:27.990" Score="2" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 1998 Hilux Surf. It has an automatic gearbox. When pressing the brake the drive selection should be unlocked, but it does not. I need to use the &quot;red button&quot; to unlock the drive selection. In other forums I did find some points to check:&#xA;- brake lights are working&#xA;- fuses are ok&#xA;- there is no clicking sound while pressing the brake with the engine running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speedometer and odometer are also dead. Besides that the car drives great :-)&#xA;I would like to know how to diagnose the issues and if there could be any relation between the drive selection not unlocking and the speedo/odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6683" LastEditorUserId="6683" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T12:53:53.117" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T14:26:50.070" Title="Toyota Hilux Surf 1998 Stuck in Park and speedometer and odometer not working" Tags="|toyota|brakes|automatic-transmission|4wd|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T10:54:56.430" Score="3" ViewCount="1726" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2000 Jaguar V6 3Lt I replaced the clutch friction plate and slave cylinder/thrust bearing. After bleeding the clutch, the pedal is hard frozen and will not depress. I flipped the clutch wrong way but still nothing doing. I put back the clutch. Bled again no joy. Car has 2000,000km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6684" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T12:41:54.553" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T17:12:50.200" Title="Clutch Pedal will not depress" Tags="|clutch|jaguar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11766" CreationDate="2014-08-10T12:41:45.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you put a brake hose clamp on the flexible hose of the clutch slave pipe and forgotten to remove it? Try disconnecting the pipe going into the slave cylinder and place a finger lightly over the end of it. Now have an assistant pump the clutch pedal, making sure the system is topped up with fluid. If the pipe pumps out fluid whilst disconnected then you can OK the master cylinder. Check that the small round seal is on the end of the pipe correctly and not adrift and blocking the fluid entry into the slave/concentric cylinder, they can come adrift. If OK, re-connect the pipe and try bleeding the clutch by closing the bleed nipple and pumping up system pressure, hold the pedal down and then open the bleed nipple, close the bleed nipple. Do this two or three times, or until the air in the system is bled. If the clutch does not now work correctly then you have re-assembled the clutch assembly incorrectly, which means the gearbox out again to rectify the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T12:41:45.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11765" CreationDate="2014-08-10T12:54:21.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zaid has covered the mechanism of the gearlever and its switch and relay. The speedo is made up of a driving wheel on the transmission output, which is an interferance fit, which can go bad, and not do any driving of the speedo transducer. The speedo driving wheel drives the transducer, which gives out a sequence of pulses to the ECU to give a 'speedo reading'. The odometer 'counts' the number of pulses to dislay a reading of mileage done. A scan on the transmission will tell where the fault lies.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T12:54:21.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11764" CreationDate="2014-08-10T13:00:00.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Embedded in your cooling system radiator is a transmission oil cooler, it comes as part of the radiator. From your description, &quot;... &lt;strong&gt;oil&lt;/strong&gt; flooding out...&quot; it would appear that your oil cooler has burst/split, and is pumping transmission oil out onto the floor. If this is so it  will mean a replacement radiator/oil cooler assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T13:00:00.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T13:07:53.990" Score="3" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I adjusted the brake shoes a bit after I installed them, but do they now adjust on their own as they are used or how do I get them to adjust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6685" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T16:08:38.633" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T16:08:38.633" Title="How do 99 chevy tracker rear brakes self adjust?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|tracker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11770" CreationDate="2014-08-10T13:35:31.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you operate the parking/e-brake its cable pulls a lever in the brake shoe assembly which rotates the star wheel adjuster to take up any free play inside of the drum. It incorperates a bi-metal strip which prevents adjustment of the shoes when the brakes are hot. If this is not working the brakes will jam on when the brakes cool, because of expansion an contraction due to the heating and cooling of the brakes. The cable has an adjuster outside and seperate to the brake drum assemblies to adjust the length of the cable. The cable is a manual adjustment, the inside-drum adjuster is automatic, but will benefit from your initial adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T13:35:31.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2014-08-10T16:17:38.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laminated glass WOULD slow down a casual opportunist, but then so would the absence of easy-to-find rocks, bricks, etc. It takes a hard, heavy object to break through nearly any side glass, so unless you frequent places where rocks are readily found, the only people who might smash-and-grab would be people who're already &quot;armed&quot; to the task - they may be carrying hammers, small battering rams (pipe with handles), and what-have-you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your single most secure course of action is to always leave the car empty of valuables that might tempt a thief, then leave the doors UNLOCKED. An unlocked door eliminates the need for any glass breakage... so even if someone got IN, at least you wouldn't have to replace thw windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have 3/8&quot; or thicker solid polycarbonate or wired-glass windows, if I leave the house intent on getting into your car, I WILL GET INTO YOUR CAR... and it won't take me very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T16:17:38.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11774" CreationDate="2014-08-11T00:49:33.897" Score="4" ViewCount="5271" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have 1mzfe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(skip this paragraph if you don't want backstory)&#xA;codes p1135/p1130/whatever the ones for the other bank are/ all showed up at the same, perfect time. ie when I was broke. Since then car will stutter when warm (I assume it's only when warm because it enters closed loop fuel control then). Car doesn't do it when I pull the MAF. Through my wonderful deductive powers (which pretty much equate to googleing the problem and following simple steps) I am like 94% certain the AFR sensors are bad (and maybe that MAF? but that's another question I suppose)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need new upstream AFR sensors (both banks)&#xA;both sensors are on the exhaust manifold of each respective bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the same sensor for both banks? ie can I just order 2 or is there a slightly different but important other part ##?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/denso-air-fuel-sensor-direct-fit-234-9021/20471861-P?searchTerm=air+fuel+ratio+sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/denso-air-fuel-sensor-direct-fit-234-9021/20471861-P?searchTerm=air+fuel+ratio+sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg can I just order two of these and b gud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any recommendation on engine mount brand, are these things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OEM or enjoy your vibration&#xA;  ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6686" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:47:28.710" Title="Can I use the same AFR sensor on both banks (bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1)" Tags="|o2-sensor|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11773" CreationDate="2014-08-11T01:47:28.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cars, they are exactly the same between banks 1 &amp;amp; 2. In fact in a lot of cars, you could use the down stream sensors as the upstream sensors (this all assumes OBD2). So, yes, order exact for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the reason your car runs better when you pull the MAF is the same reason it runs the way it does in open loop. When you pull the MAF, the computer goes to speed density and open loop mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:47:28.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T10:53:12.297" Score="2" ViewCount="4241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is used the Turtle wax headlight restorer kit to remove the yellowish haze from my headlights.&#xA;I followed the instructions and as the last steps I applied the &quot;basecoat&quot; wipe, after a few minutes it dried and then I applied the &quot;sealing wipe&quot;.&#xA;According to instructions it should take 24 hours to dry but that time passed and it is still wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just wait some more? Or wipe it off?&#xA;I am concerned that it will not give a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note there are several versions of this product, the one I used had a clarifying compound bottle, spray lubricant bottle, two sandpaper pads and two soaked wipes: the basecoat wipe and a lens sealing wipe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6687" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T14:02:28.593" Title="Turtle wax headlight restorer kit not drying" Tags="|headlight|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:41:10.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;80W90 is a multiviscosity version of the single-viscosity 90 gear oil; it's the same concept as 10W30 motor oil being the multiviscosity version of single-viscosity 30-weight motor oil. The &quot;W&quot; is a &quot;winter&quot; rating, meaning that the oil in question is designed to be usable in winter months in cold climates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80W90 oil is perfectly satisfactory for your purposes in a cement mixer - it can be either GL4 (with very little molybdenum disulfide) or GL5 (with lots of moly-d)... for a cement mixer I'd recommend using the GL5 because you have no brass synchro components for the moly-d to attack. GL4 is for older manual transmissions that can't tolerate moly-d because they contain brass. For gearboxes that can use it, moly-d adds extra protection against wear, especially in cases where regular maintenance is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T13:41:10.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11775" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:48:48.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'd be very concerned about the &quot;sealing wipe&quot; not drying. As Juann pointed out, your conditions seem to be good for drying, so either it's as dry as it'll get or else something's interfering with it drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, you can use ordinary car wax after wet-sanding with 2000-grit sandpaper. The car wax MUST be a &quot;100% carnauba&quot; paste wax, containing NO silicone... and a container of it will outlast your car, and your next car, and your next; it takes VERY LITTLE wax to finish out a headlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good examples of suitable ordinary wax are Johnson's Paste Wax, Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax, and some types of the ubiquitous Turtle wax. Do check the label - it should someplace read either &quot;no silicone&quot; or &quot;100% carnauba&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T13:48:48.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:58:00.050" Score="7" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;On several occasions (in different vehicles) I've had batteries fail without warning, leaving me stranded and needing a jump, or even a tow. There was NO prior indication of a problem, such as slow cranking, etc. The battery worked great, and then it failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to anticipate these problems so I can replace the battery before I am stranded? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6689" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T17:45:23.503" Title="How do you anticipate battery failure in advance?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T15:00:34.117" Score="4" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a 2005 Renault modus 1.5 DCI.The dash board displayed 'steering fault' which rendered power steering off.&#xA;After leaving lights on over night,the battery was drained.I then disconected battery and charged.when I went to start it the red imobilser light stayed static.. And car will not start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had key reprogrammed... No joy&#xA;I have pressed central locking buttons whilst turning key...no joy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway of overriding imobilser so I can take it to a Renault garage for diagnostic reading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can we reset imobilser?&#xA;Thanks in advance&#xA;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6688" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T15:00:34.117" Title="Renault modus 1.5 DCI imobilser will not go off" Tags="|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-08-11T15:09:58.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is - by age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan on an automotive battery to live about seven years in &quot;normal&quot; use. If you replace it after five years of service, and if your battery usage is about typical, then your chances of experiencing a battery failure are greatly diminished. It COULD still happen, but it's much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T15:09:58.827" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11793" CreationDate="2014-08-11T21:15:20.300" Score="2" ViewCount="2414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1996 model Volvo 440 GL(manual gear box). When the engine RPM reaches around 2000 - 3000 range, car starts jerking. It feels like the car needs to go faster but something is not allowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full coverage preparation 2 months ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strap change 10k km ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fluid levels seems okay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motor filter has not been changed for 50k km and not for at least 1.5 years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has remained unused for a month, few times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can be the most likely cause of such a behaviour?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="6488" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T12:51:49.003" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T18:52:10.413" Title="Car jerking at certain engine RPM" Tags="|volvo|motors|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11781" CreationDate="2014-08-11T22:25:31.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am understanding what you are trying to say, it sounds like the transmission is slipping and allowing the engine to rev higher than what you'd expect for the speed you are going. Not knowing if it is an automatic or standard gearbox, I'm going to assume it is auto, because I don't think Volvo made too many standard shift 4-doors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you need to check is the transmission fluid. First, while everything is warm, check the level of the fluid in the transmission. While you are doing this, check the color and smell. You want an oil smell with clear red fluid. If you smell a burnt smell and the fluid looks brown. You can try to change the fluid to see if it helps, but this is usually just a temporary fix. Once the fluid is burnt, it usually only a matter of time before the transmission is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fluid seems good, it doesn't mean there isn't a problem with the tranny. You may want to run it by a transmission shop and see what they think. Don't forget to get a second opinion with a mechanic you trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you check the tranny and it seems okay, you'll have to post up more information about what is going on so we can give you better advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; With the new knowledge of a standard transmission, I would suggest the clutch is slipping as suggested.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T18:52:10.413" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T18:52:10.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2014-08-11T22:29:30.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A battery load tester will give some indication of the battery health. It could be an somewhat expensive tool (about $100) for occasional home use. The model I own has two leads that are clamped on to the battery terminals. A switch is then activated and a reading of bad, marginal or good is read off the gauge. The scale has readings for various battery load capacities. If you don't feel you have the need to buy the tool ask them to check the battery during routine service. Even with regular testing you can still get stranded. Batteries do occasionally fail with no warning due to internal failure rather than just wearing out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T22:29:30.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11785" CreationDate="2014-08-12T01:56:05.627" Score="2" ViewCount="13749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a left turn today and now my left turn signal will not turn off (i.e., the interior arrow is flashing and the exterior front/rear blinkers are flashing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the current state of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stalk left: left signal is on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stalk neutral: left signal is on&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stalk right: right signal is on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research shows that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1193325&amp;amp;cc=1434535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multi-function switch&lt;/a&gt; (i.e., the stalk) in this model frequently goes bad and the stuck turn signal is a symptom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The previous issue I mentioned regarding the interior lights has resolved itself somehow, but the turn signal issue perists.  I replaced the fuse that controls the turn signals (cavity #16) and that didn't resolve the issue. Now it looks like my last option is to replace the multi-function switch itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1117" LastEditorUserId="1117" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T17:17:14.707" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T23:25:23.123" Title="2007 Jeep Commander left turn signal will not turn off" Tags="|electrical|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11784" CreationDate="2014-08-12T01:59:13.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the two are related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep, replacing the &quot;multi-function switch&quot; should take care of your turn signal issue. The interior-light issue would be a completely different, electronic, problem... and may be very difficult to track down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="6578" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T02:24:57.603" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T02:24:57.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11797" CreationDate="2014-08-12T05:10:14.440" Score="0" ViewCount="4605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new (to me) Sprinter van - 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van (140&quot; wheelbase, high roof).  Generally speaking, it pulls to the right, but especially when going slowly, the wheel only pulls in short bursts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can see what I'm talking about at 11 seconds (0:11) into this video (In the video, I'm idling in a parking lot): &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/YAuXJc9fc4s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/YAuXJc9fc4s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a front end alignment fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you SO much! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6256" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T14:04:37.437" Title="What would cause a frontend to pull intermittently?" Tags="|tires|truck|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T05:39:33.063" Score="0" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to purchase an old camry model 2009. &#xA;I took it to mechanic for checking purposes. we found front cross membrane frame (downside of engine body)is found to be bend due to some hitting of car downside. please let me know that should i purchase this car? is it any effect on driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REgards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Qasim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6693" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T12:16:19.417" Title="Camry 2009 sedan , Cross membrane frame bend at center?" Tags="|camry|frame|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2014-08-12T08:40:46.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As highlighted in the question comments, the culprit was the vibration damper on the crank pulley that had failed, causing the pulley center and outer ring to have some limited slip relative to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy to say that the following symptoms were resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the A/C disengaged, the crank pulley was spinning at a limited speed. This was also causing issues slight engine overheating and reduced power-steering assistance that I did not believe were related at the time of posting the question. With the new crank pulley in, things are much better; no overheating, A/C runs as before and the steering is easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engaging the A/C provided additional load on the crank pulley that was enough to cause it the outer ring to stop rotating. This was what caused the 'Check Alternator' message to appear and battery voltage to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belt squeal is vastly reduced, so I probably will still have to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T08:40:46.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T09:12:09.560" Score="3" ViewCount="21930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/11377/675&quot;&gt;one set of issues&lt;/a&gt; to another on my LS1 Chevy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the gear in 'D', A/C on and the handbrake pulled, I popped the hood and noticed for the first time that the main belt tensioner is &quot;chattering&quot; (video link below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/a0-ol1bOI5A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;LS1 Belt Tensioner Chatter&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has had an issue with vibration for some time now. The symptoms are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;severe vibration whenever the car comes to a stop (it seems to be related to the suddenness of drop in RPM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at idle with the gear engaged in 'D' (~600 RPM). With the car in 'P' or 'N', engine speed is ~750 RPM and the vibration is lesser but still faintly discernible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the vibration is felt throughout the car body and is amplified with use of the A/C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't feel any vibration the steering wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was expecting that this was due to the failure of the vibration damper on my old crank pulley, but the issue persists even after the installation of a new crank pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vibration is felt with the car stationary in 'D', regardless of whether the A/C is turned on or off (the only thing that changes is the severity), so it would appear to be an imbalance of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt; and the fact that the issue was present before the new crank pulley installation, I would say that crank pulley alignment is not to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also put together an action plan. Comments and suggestions are welcome:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect throttle plate, PCV, vacuum line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace belts, assess possibility of pulley misalignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect engine mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect transmission mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T13:14:51.433" Title="What are possible causes for belt tensioner &quot;chatter&quot; at idle?" Tags="|vibration|belt-tensioner|ls1|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11786" CreationDate="2014-08-12T09:40:55.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I think alignment could be the problem. But at that much you could see the difference even optical. The bursts comes because the wheels goes apart and then jumps back together or the other way. Could be also an oblique axis, but by doing alignment they will find this out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T09:40:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11781" CreationDate="2014-08-12T11:38:14.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If when you shift gear and release the clutch you feel the engine reving up without the car actually accelerating, probably the clutch is worn or very old/used. (this goes for manual gearbox)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T11:38:14.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2014-08-12T12:16:19.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the term you might be trying for is &quot;crossmember&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer must be... &quot;it depends&quot;. If you really like that car, and if it's priced significantly lower than other similar cars for sale near you, and if the bend isn't very bad, then take it for a careful test drive. Drive it STRAIGHT AHEAD through a puddle of water and examine the wet tire tracks leading from the puddle - you should see only two wet tire tracks, where the rear wheels exactly followed the front wheels. If you see four, then the car is &quot;crab walking&quot; or the bend was significant enough to change something else in the car's geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... there may be other hidden damage, too. A crossmember isn't an easy thing to bend, it would have taken a pretty hard impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately... that car is a gamble. If the price is low enough for you to take the risk, and if you can afford to replace it if it turns out to be really problematic, then go ahead &amp;amp; buy it. If you're short on money, though, or if the car's price is about the same as other undamaged cars near you, then walk away from this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T12:16:19.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-08-12T13:16:44.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just stick a gauge into each each sparkplug hole and turn the engine over to measure how much &quot;compression&quot; each cylinder makes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compression test says you have bad compression on one or more cylinders, it's your head gasket and there's no way around having it swapped ASAP. Seeing as you flushed the system and replaced the cap, it is unlikely that you have air trapped in the coolant circuit (I just have a feeling you know about &quot;burping&quot; a car when you replace the coolant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave it as-is, you're going to warp you cylinder head(s). And if you think replacing a headgasket is expensive, wait til you have to have the head skimmed AND have the headgasket replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in the same position last year with my Astra Coupe. The only thing to do is to find out what's wrong and deal with it. Even if you have to borrow the wife's car or take the train while you save up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, don't use StopLeak. It has a nasty habit of also clogging things that shouldn't be clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:16:44.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2014-08-12T13:50:12.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In direct answer to your question... no, there's probably nothing you can try before you invest in a head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities here. No, there are three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is that your motor oil is entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket - the motor oil is under higher pressure than the coolant should ever be, so it'd pressurize the coolant. That, though, would also give your coolant an obvious &quot;milkshake&quot; appearance &amp;amp; consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is that your fuel/air mix and exhaust gases are entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket. During the compression stroke, and especially during the power stroke, the fuel/air and exhaust are under VERY high pressure, far more than oil pressure. This sort of failure doesn't necessarily alter the appearance &amp;amp; consistency of the coolant, but may cause a very dramatic overpressure condition within the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third is that fuel/air and exhaust are entering the water jacket through a crack in the head, with results nearly identical to head gasket failure. Cracked heads are much less common than failed head gaskets, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooling system leak sealers will have no effect in any of these cases, short-term or long-term. It may work to stop minor external leakages from the cooling system to the outdoors, but your leak is INTO the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive the car any further before getting the problem fixed, you should count on it getting worse - quickly. Even if the leak doesn't get worse fast (which it will), it WILL blow your coolant out, and your car will overheat, and the highest point (the head) will be coolant-starved and suffer from it. Warpage may occur as early as TOMORROW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your head is allowed to warp, the car'll never run right again. A machine shop may be able to plane the head, but if they do... every combustion chamber will thereafter be a different size so you'll have different compression (and different power) on every cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:50:12.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11786" CreationDate="2014-08-12T14:04:37.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may possibly have a bad tire or wheel, or a badly worn tie rod end or ball joint or suspension bushing, or a cracked suspension control arm, or a binding brake pad/shoe. Generally, alignment issues in the absence of worn or damaged parts will result in very consistent steering anomalies... with the exception of severe toe-in/toe-out issues, which may make one or both tires &quot;bind-and-skip&quot;. Toe-in and toe-out issues, though, very seldom cause the vehicle to drift to either side - neither wheel gets steering preference. Instead, toe issues tend to make the vehicle wander side-to-side randomly as one tire &quot;takes command&quot;, then the other tire &quot;takes command&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing - check tire pressure on all four wheels, and get the same pressure (within very close tolerances) in all four. Run your flat-parking-lot test again and see if its character has changed at all. Second thing... jack up the right front wheel and spin it by hand - watch the tread pattern, watch the wheel rim. You're watching for any regular anomalies - bulge in the tire, sudden dodge to one side in the tread pattern, any imperfection in the wheel. If you don't find anything that jumps out at you, repeat that test at the right REAR wheel. Also, for both wheels, note whether you feel brakes binding as you spin the wheel. The brakes should give you just a little resistance to hand turning, but not very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T14:04:37.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T17:05:39.380" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally added synthetic motor oil to my 2006 Jeep Wrangler automatic transmission. What should I do ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6696" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:34:34.880" Title="Motor oil in automatic transmission" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11799" CreationDate="2014-08-12T17:20:59.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the Jeep somewhere they can do a complete transmission flush. Motor oil can do NASTY things to the seals in an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T17:20:59.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2014-08-12T18:34:35.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't the &quot;Engine System Service Required&quot; message just mean it expects an oil change or other routine maintenance? Just as a maintenance reminder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T18:34:35.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11799" CreationDate="2014-08-12T18:56:08.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was said, get a complete flush done on it. The problem is not so much the seals as it will reek havoc on the clutches and bands, which is far worse than the seals alone. Definitely not a good thing. Get it done as soon as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T18:56:08.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3053" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:55:26.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick pointed question: Does this tend to happen when the fuel tank is nearly empty, or does it also happen when the fuel tank is full? It's possible that the fuel pickup tube is displaced or otherwise starving the vehicle of fuel under hard acceleration. That may result in normal acceleration until the fuel rail runs out of pressure, then the drop in speed would surge fuel forward to the fuel pickup tube again, which would permit you to resume accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would ONLY apply if your symptoms did NOT appear with a full tank, though - with a full tank, the entire fuel pump is fully submerged in fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a straw, but it's worth grasping at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T20:55:26.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2014-08-12T21:14:58.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it make the vibration when in park? If not, I'd suggest you may have a vacuum leak after the throttle body or possibly your Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is not functioning correctly. If you are not experiencing any rough running at off idle, it has to be something which would only affect it at idle, or it could be slight enough that you are not feeling it above idle. If it is running slightly off above idle, it could be spark plugs/wires/coils (of which it would only be one of the eight of each and then just not functioning at 100%) or an injector might be partially clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T02:54:49.287" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T02:54:49.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11807" CreationDate="2014-08-13T00:35:24.340" Score="1" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've camry 2001 LE, with 149K on it.&#xA;Recently, I noticed coolant leak from the radiator and replaced the radiator.&#xA;I still was loosing coolant little bit, so performed coolant pressure test. The upper radiator hose was leaking, so replaced that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still losing small amount of coolant in the reservoir. I again did the coolant pressure test today, but didn't detect any leak. But the pressure on the gauge dropped very, very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be next best thing to do/replace?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6700" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T20:09:20.160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T22:27:19.250" Title="Camry 01 loosing coolant" Tags="|toyota|cooling-system|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11806" CreationDate="2014-08-13T01:34:53.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would see what happens over a weeks time. You may have air trapped in the system that is slowly working it's way out. If it continues I would start with the following. Remove the spark plugs and put the pressure tester on. If you think the tester will hold pressure for a while let it sit pressurized, you can leave it overnight. Check and see if you see coolant leaking out of the sparkplug holes. If you see coolant, it an indicator of head gasket failure. With 149,000 you have to decide what to do if you have a leak. I have had success with the chemical additive products for small leaks like yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T01:34:53.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:09:10.767" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;After installing aftermarket tail lights on my 94 Honda Prelude Si, the broken lamp light and hand brake (!) Dash lights stay on with the ignition switiched on. All of the tail lights work and the dash lights were fine before the swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6705" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:06:06.943" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:06:06.943" Title="dash lights stay on after aftermarket tail light install" Tags="|honda|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11812" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:26:30.753" Score="-1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to found out the maker, type model of this car but to no avail. &#xA;Could someone help me out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYKbf.png&quot; alt=&quot;car 0&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kpn1.png&quot; alt=&quot;car 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qxv7o.png&quot; alt=&quot;car 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the lousy quality these pictures are from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtIfwnDnjiM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6704" LastEditorUserId="6704" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T17:26:18.403" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T11:38:09.100" Title="Does anyone know the name, model and year of this car (picture inside)" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-08-13T19:25:16.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11808" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:29:04.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you install LED lighting instead of incandescent lighting? LEDs don't draw as much current as incandescent, so your Honda may think (because of the low current draw) that you have a failed taillight bulb. You may have to intentionally add extra current load at the taillights to make that dash light go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand brake light, though, would be a totally different issue. THAT should be controlled only by a switch on the hand brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T13:29:04.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11814" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:48:10.293" Score="-2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the average ground clearance for a Lamborghini? Let's consider a few models for the last years with highest and smallest values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6671" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T16:45:13.120" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T16:45:13.120" Title="What is the average ground clearance of a Lamborghini?" Tags="|lamborghini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-08-13T19:18:59.480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11809" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:53:17.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 2008-2015 Ford Fiesta. See: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fiesta#Seventh_generation_(2017%E2%80%93present)_(UK_Mk8)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ford_Fiesta#Seventh_generation on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastEditorUserId="6704" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T11:38:09.100" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T11:38:09.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11809" CreationDate="2014-08-13T14:09:15.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isn't it a third-generation Ford Escape? Note the grille divider. 2011-2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDmkh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T14:09:15.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11811" CreationDate="2014-08-13T14:20:13.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aventador - 4.1&quot;&#xA;Gallardo - 5.0&quot;, but variable&#xA;Countach - 5.0&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T14:20:13.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16423" CreationDate="2014-08-13T15:32:43.190" Score="5" ViewCount="2828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5S that has been making a metallic shh-shh noise. I've replaced the front brake pads and rotors, but the noise continues and is now becoming a distinct grinding noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to tell, but it seems that the noise is coming from the front of the vehicle and when brakes are applied comes more so on the passenger side of the car. Today I noticed the noise has become louder and more of a grinding sound. The grinding sound becomes more noticable when I turn to the left, with some noise when driving straight and none when turning left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've linked to some recordings of the sound. They're both faint, but you can hear it better on the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://soundcloud.com/fyreflyt/sets/sounds-from-card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recording #1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://soundcloud.com/fyreflyt/voice-003-08-13-2015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recording #2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6706" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T22:13:40.307" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T02:58:19.933" Title="2006 Nissan Altima 2.5S with metallic shh-shh noise while driving" Tags="|nissan|noise|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2014-08-13T17:59:26.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a completely different note... in SOME places (I live in one such place, Notably Vermont), it's ILLEGAL to leave the keys in an unattended vehicle, or to leave an unattended vehicle idling. True, we Vermonters do that a lot in wintertime - leave the vehicle running while we dash into a grocery store so the steering wheel isn't covered in frost when we return - but it IS illegal, and it IS prosecutable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if someone jumps into your vehicle and makes off with it? You'd likely be found nearly as culpable as the thief. A running car is a blatant invitation to theft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T17:59:26.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T17:59:55.940" Score="2" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new fuel pressure sensor in 4 days ago ran fine. Now it is coding fuel pressure sensor low pressure but I do not hear the fuel pump buzz at startup is it the fuel pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6710" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T20:03:11.973" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T00:18:16.617" Title="2005 volvo s60 2.4 starts shuts right off." Tags="|starting|volvo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T19:30:16.367" Score="2" ViewCount="174678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2002- Chrysler PT Cruiser. I hear this bubbling sound when I turn the engine off. It occasionally registers at hot so I put more coolant in and it seems OK for a while. The coolant is not on the ground. I don't see any leaks. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6711" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T21:52:28.097" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T16:41:39.923" Title="Bubbling sound from the cooliant area when I turn the engine off" Tags="|chrysler|pt-cruiser|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11819" CreationDate="2014-08-13T22:09:56.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be the fuel pump. Something you can replace before your fuel pump is the fuel filter. If this becomes clogged, it can give a lower pressure at the fuel rails and could trigger a low fuel pressure code to your ECM. If this doesn't work for you, then I'd check the fuel pump. The easiest way to tell is to put a fuel pressure tester at the fuel rail to see what it comes up to when you turn the key on. Most current vehicles with fuel injection has a test port which is a Schraeder valve (same basic thing as what holds air in your tires) on it (not to be confused with either of the A/C ports). I don't know exactly what the fuel pressure should be on your vehicle, but believe it should be around 43psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T22:09:56.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9893" CreationDate="2014-08-13T23:23:24.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the ignition switch was bad. It was causing the blower motor to stay on even when the ignition was in the &quot;off&quot; position. Fixing this stopped the car's blower motor from running when off, then it was as simple as replacing the resistor once more and haven't had any problems for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5149" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T23:23:24.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11867" CreationDate="2014-08-13T23:34:24.820" Score="7" ViewCount="4678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting about a week or two ago, my 3.4L engine (2004 Chevy Monte Carlo LS) has thrown a p0300 code, random misfire. Here are the things I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed spark plugs and wires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knocked fuel injectors (tapped them with screw-driver and hammer)[it is a mess of liquid under the engine cap, but I'm not concerned with those - should I be?]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reconnected bank 1 upstream oxygen sensor (it was unplugged and I had no idea that it was)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had both my battery and alternator tested (volts, CCA and CA). All checked out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed oil 1.5 months ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced many parts of the PCV and other air-intake valves. A lot of them have been melting apart so I've changed to a mix of plastic and rubber heat-shielded hoses. Last time I had a series of misfires, it was because my PCV broke in half. I don't see anymore leaks or damages here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, when the RPMs get about 500-600 (about normal idle) the engine will ... I believe &quot;misfire&quot; and the rpms shoot up to about 1000-1200. Then about 10 secs later, they drop back down to 500-600 and repeat this 'shoot' bakc to 1000-1200. This only happens when I am stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am driving, I seem to feel a &quot;jitter&quot; when I get in speeds near 50-70. As if the car struggles to go faster. It will decelerate fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tech at O'Reilly's suggested I check the engine ground wire. I haven't done this yet, but he said it wouldn't hurt to see if it's got any wear or damage to it. Is this worth looking at? I'm not sure where the ground wire for my engine is at, and it's a pain to look through things under my hood (tight space, small car, low to ground).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a question as to what this open port might be near the PCV (pics below). The whiter pic has the port in quesiton circled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or comments? Need more info? Is it a coil pack that needs changing in the higher-numbered engine cylinders? I have three coil packs (top-back of engine casing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images of Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vH8PV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pz80g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown port&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth mentioning that the car doesn't always start when I turn the key UNLESS my foot is pumping gas (in cold or hot weather). Without pumping the gas, it's a risk if it turns over or not (else it just leaves the battery on and engine never starts). With pumping the gas, it always will turn over and engine starts,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further listening of the engine, I can hear either a &quot;sucking&quot; or a &quot;blowing&quot; sound (like the sound high-pressure liquids make or an air can might make, but not a hissing sound) near the EGR and PCV valves (look in the images to see where they are). Also note, the EGR is heavily rusted. Should this be changed out? There is very fresh liquid around one of my fuel injectors (closest to this sound I'm hearing). Closing in as this being the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5149" LastEditorUserId="5149" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T03:07:02.353" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T10:56:29.080" Title="Random Misfiring - Tried All Basic Fixes - Tech Says Engine Ground" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9866" CreationDate="2014-08-14T01:31:20.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the car off, go under the hood and look near your air filter housing. Follow the large hose that it is connected to until you see the throttle body. Try manually moving the throttle lever. This is what your gas peddle would do anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try using two people, one to be in the car pressing the gas peddle, and one to see it the lever rotates at all. If all checks out, investigate your throttle position sensor. The TPS can be a cause of engine stalling while driving or idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5149" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:31:20.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11820" CreationDate="2014-08-14T01:41:33.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbling probably means that air pressure is building in the coolant. This is often caused by a blown head gasket, where coolant leaks into one or more cylinders in the engine, and is simply burned off, so you don't see any leaks or coolant on the ground, as it's leaking internally. Compression from the cylinder forces air back through the head gasket into the coolant system, and the air makes its way up to the overflow tank where you hear the bubbling and may see foam on top of the coolant. The engine will not run as well, as the compression will be lower as the cylinder has lost its seal, the coolant seeping into the cylinder will affect the burning of fuel, and the loss of coolant will increase risk of overheating. The coolant lost into the cylinder can also damage the exhaust components, particularly the catalytic converter, which can further hinder performance and efficiency of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:41:33.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11820" CreationDate="2014-08-14T08:35:40.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky like I was, it simply means there's a leak in one of your pipes or the coolant bottle is cracked. This would allow air to escape, meaning you lose pressure, which in turn allows the coolant to boil. Look for a tiny leak in the pipes or bottle somewhere. When the engine is hot and the coolant is boiling, open your hood and have a look around. DO NOT try to open the coolant bottle, it will blast you in the face with hot, poisonous gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T08:35:40.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2014-08-14T09:09:28.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing rotors or drums every other time you replace the pads/shoes is crazy.  For most daily drivers, that would be every year or every 2 years.  Unless the vehicle is being used for something like a delivery service (IE, LOTS of miles with TONS and TONS of stops), there is no reason not to expect 50K-100K or even more from a pair of even stock or OEM-equivalent rotors/shoes.  And the front brakes will always need more servicing than rear brakes, usually anywhere from 2 to 4 times the frequency.   But the first rule is always to INSPECT the condition and service as appropriate, no matter what &quot;rule of thumb&quot; you're fond of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6713" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T12:52:21.130" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:52:21.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11830" CreationDate="2014-08-14T10:36:58.343" Score="1" ViewCount="16203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used 2003 Opel(Vauxhall) Astra G 1.4. I drove around 2000km's in the last few months (city and highway mixed), and I used about 200 litres of gasoline, which means a 10l/100km consumption. This seems a little bit too much, and it might be because I'm really a new to driving. According to other sites, consumption should be much lower (around 6-8l/100km). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend, who also has the same car told me, that it probably consumes more, because I have not reset the car when I bought, and it is &quot;not used&quot; to my driving style. He told me to take the battery out, and put it back 20 minutes later, then drive around in low traffic for 20 minutes. Would this really cause better settings in fuel consumption? I don't know too much about cars, and I don't understand how this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for every answer in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Yesterday I did the ECU restart by taking out the battery, I can't say too much about consumption yet, but the first thing I noticed was that acceleration in 1st gear was smoother than before. So it definitely had some effect. I'll update again when I have enough data about fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE #2: In the last days I used ~25-26 litres at 270km's, so it didn't really change (it was the same ratio of city/highway than before)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6714" LastEditorUserId="6714" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T18:08:27.797" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T18:08:27.797" Title="Will a battery reset improve fuel consumption?" Tags="|battery|fuel-consumption|vauxhall|opel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11828" CreationDate="2014-08-14T10:51:29.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think a battery reset can improve your fuel economy. But do check whether the battery is working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this link &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-economy/how-to-get-better-fuel-economy1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to get an idea of how to improve your fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6488" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T10:51:29.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11828" CreationDate="2014-08-14T11:02:55.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a reset &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; work, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; the problem is that the ECU is used to the previous driver's driving style and his style was vastly different to your's. But it could also just be the way you drive. Do you drive more like Morgan Freeman or Vin Diesel? These cars are quite heavy on the juice in city driving. With mine, I get about 7.5l/100km on the highway going 110km/h(70mph), but in town it goes up to 13l/100km. It really does depend on how much time you spend going slow in lower gears versus going fast in top gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the 1.4 Astra has a very short ratio gearbox, which isn't good for consumption either. You would probably find that the 1.6 with its longer gears would be better with consumption in the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T11:02:55.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:31:26.587" Score="4" ViewCount="1668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finish installing a China brand Android Aftermarket Double Din. The unit has steering wheel controls built in so no extra adapter is required as long as your vehicle does not have a canbus interface. The HU manual says to connect the SWC wire to the Key 1 on the HU iso cable and also connect the ground wire from the factory harness. I came across this &lt;a href=&quot;http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/12426.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OEM Harness wiring&lt;/a&gt;, this shows that Pin 7 is the steering wheel control wire and pin 6 is the power for it which I installed both correctly.  Issue is the HU is not recognizing any buttons I press and I know I got the correct SWC wire as I used a multimeter and I was getting different voltage when I was pressing the buttons. I contacted the seller on ebay I know it’s a long shot but he said the steering wheel must have 2 wires, one for ground and one for the buttons.  Does anybody know where I can find the wiring diagram for the OEM harness so I can see if pin 6 instead of installing it to a 12v it may be installed to a ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T01:17:42.273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T17:22:39.927" Title="Aftermarket Head Unit (HU) on Grand Prix 2008" Tags="|pontiac|audio|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11833" CreationDate="2014-08-14T15:19:05.027" Score="2" ViewCount="3374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about this the other day. Is the petrol usage in the car only influenced by the position of the gas pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example if I take my foot of the gas and coast for 30 seconds, would that be the same petrol consumption as sitting idle in traffic for 30 seconds?&#xA;Or if If I'm driving through a slow zone with the gas pedal 30% depressed, over a minute would that be the same gas consumption as driving on a motor way in top gear with the gas pedal at 30% depressed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do slopes / hills have an influence? Assuming I'm driving up a slope in a high gear with the gas pedal in a constant position. The vehicle slows but gets to the top then proceeds as normal. Did the hill influence consumption or was it constant because the pedal never moved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6716" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T14:54:59.673" Title="Is Petrol usage Proportional to Gas Pedal position" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11832" CreationDate="2014-08-14T16:48:09.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of things influence fuel consumption, actual pedal position being probably the strongest. The engine's rotational speed has SOME influence, but not nearly as much as pedal position... and a lot of the reason that the engine's speed has influence is because ignition timing will be different at different engine speeds (among other secondary influences), and ignition timing also influences fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coasting, with the transmission shifted to neutral is exactly equivalent - in terms of fuel volume per unit time - to idling. Coasting with the transmission engaged is less efficient than idling because of compression braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slopes DO have some minor influence, because slopes alter engine speed (engine speed falls on upslopes, rises on downslopes), but GENERALLY if you hold the pedal exactly fixed (or just use a once-common accelerator lock) fuel consumption on downslopes should be very similar to fuel consumption on upslopes. Too, fuel pressure falls off slightly on upslopes, and that change in fuel pressure exerts some minor influence. Weight shifting to the front or rear tires will even influence the tires' rolling resistance, which will affect fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we examine ALL the details, we'll find countless influences, most of them minor-to-negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T16:48:09.643" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2014-08-14T22:02:52.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rotors' wear surfaces are still smooth &amp;amp; flat &amp;amp; true, then keep the rotors and replace the pads alone. The dealer wants to replace the rotors because doing so eliminates one potential source of liability for them - the more they replace, the less their potential liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wear surfaces are NOT still good, then they should be measured to see whether it's practical to resurface them (provided that shop still owns a brake lathe - brake lathes are rapidly becoming extinct). If too thin, or if no brake lathe is available, replace the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... that band of rust is NOTHING. It's not even enough to make changing the pads difficult. It's... a waste of metal in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;35K seems awfully early to be replacing pads, though... do you rest your foot on the brake pedal a lot while you drive? Does your driving include a LOT of stop-and-go city traffic? My wife &amp;amp; I both drive '07 Toyotas, and both are still equipped with the original brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T22:02:52.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2014-08-15T06:49:14.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the plug and clean it, pull the air filter and clean or replace it, with the plug out of the cylinder cycle the motor a few times - as if you're trying to start it - but cover anything you don't want gunk to get on. If there's residual oil in the cylinder this can help flush it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course like the last answers mentioned, your spark plug's gap should be correct, and it would be wise to make sure you have the correct amount of oil in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air filter is paper, replace it. If it's a foam filter, use some foam filter cleaner, not something as abrasive and destructive as brake/carb cleaner. A mild dish washing soap and hot water in your kitchen sink will do the job but not too hot that the rim of the air filter falls off because the temp disrupted the adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs are fine with being cleaned with the brake/carb cleaner but I'd go with the brake cleaner. I find it evaporates better with less residue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T06:49:14.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T07:28:13.920" Score="3" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I replace the shoulder belt on an old 1991 Toyota Corolla?  The shoulder belt and lap belt are not connected (that is, NOT three-point).  The current shoulder belt is badly frayed on the driver side, and it is my understanding that the entire belt assembly kit (containing both shoulder belts - one for the driver side and one for the passenger side) must be replaced.  Can anyone tell me how to remove the current kit and install a new one?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6722" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T10:03:41.773" Title="How do I replace the shoulder belt on the 1991 Toyota Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12252" CreationDate="2014-08-15T08:09:08.423" Score="3" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Volvo with B5254T (2.5L low pressure turbo, 193hp) engine. It is equipped with KME diego G3 LPG system. I have problem to adjust it to work properly. Here is modeling tab. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pmNo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diego G3 modeling tab&quot;&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzICS8oAzXWQMDFZc01fX0ZLWTQ/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From manual (page 28-29)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mult&lt;/strong&gt;  –  parameter enables to change Tg value of all model points by a&#xA;  given percentage. It changes the ratio of slope (gradient) of the&#xA;  model curve. Recommended mult for groups of engine types:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Engine type =&gt; Recommended mult&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Sequential turbo =&gt; -5 – 5 %&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Sequential =&gt; 0 – 15%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Semi sequential =&gt; 10 – 25%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Full group =&gt; 15 – 30%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Offset&lt;/strong&gt; – parameter enables to change Tg value of all the model points&#xA;  by a given value in milliseconds. Offset depends on reaction times of&#xA;  gas injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time to time i got P1171 error. I googled, that it is related to &quot;Long term fuel trim-Bank 1&quot; witch mean it can be lean or rich. This error &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; related to LPG. I drove about 350km with petrol and no errors are reported. MAF and oxygen sensor is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to set mult to lower values, like suggested in manual (5 - 10%) - but then vehicle is very slow and accelerate very very slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, maybe someone have experience working with KME diego G3 LPG system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions are:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What represents that thin blue line, does it must have exact values in all model points? And what represents that values?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly offset does? it just moves all model points or it is&#xA;connected with petrol injector opening times?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First model point - in manual it is at position 1.1, in my case it&#xA;is 0.5. Is important first model point coordinates?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How i can increase LPG injector opening time? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What parameters i must monitor (with odb2) while try to adjust LPG system? The idea is - monitor that parameters with petrol and then try to achieve the same with LPG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T17:11:39.190" Title="Adjusting LPG system KME diego G3" Tags="|lpg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11836" CreationDate="2014-08-15T10:03:41.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a quick search and found this image for a 1991 Corolla, manual, sedan, for the canadian market. You have 2 bolts to remove, the one on the top of the pillar and the one that attach both end of the seat belt. They may be hidden Under some plastics panel. It should be an easy task but make sure to tighten the bolt back!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBqIT.png&quot; alt=&quot;1991 Corolla front seat belts assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T10:03:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11341" CreationDate="2014-08-15T12:26:34.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is usual problem: contact place of tyre-rim is corroded. Just remove it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T12:26:34.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11828" CreationDate="2014-08-15T13:23:27.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see it helping any.  The long term fuel trims on modern cars will adapt to conditions within 15 minutes of driving, and even those only have a minor impact.  The short term fuel trims that have the most impact adapt pretty much instantly (hence the &quot;short term&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, resetting the ECU is easy, so feel free to go for it and let us know what happens.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I reset the ECU on my OBD-I car, nothing changes at all.  If I reset it on my OBD-II car, the car runs bad for the first 15 minutes, then starts running normally again.  I get slightly better gas mileage on that tank because the car was running too lean until it relearned the fuel trims...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T13:23:27.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11832" CreationDate="2014-08-15T14:48:32.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a thread on here entitled &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/fuel-consumption-and-other-fuel-related-data-from-basic-obd-ii-parameters&quot;&gt;Fuel Consumption and other Fuel related data from basic OBD-II parameters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; where the author was concerned about fuel consumption. While the question was never &amp;quot;answered&amp;quot;, there was an article posted which sheds light on your question. It is a PDF entitled &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://article.nadiapub.com/IJUNESST/vol4_no4/3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Estimation of Fuel Consumption using In-Vehicle Parameters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, by Min Goo Lee, Yong Kuk Park, Kyung Kwon Jung, and Jun Jae Yoo (sorry, I need to give the authors credit here). Their purpose in the article was to estimate fuel consumption through the OBD-II system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, you ask, does this have to do with your question? The two main factors these individuals used to provide their datum is RPM (engine speed) and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). In their article, they provide a couple of graphs which are very telling. The first graph (which is their figure 8), shows Fuel Consumption versus engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkeE1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image from article mentioned above.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each one of the blue &amp;quot;X&amp;quot;'s is a data point. The first time I looked at this graph, I was perplexed as to why there would be a bunch of data points showing no (ie: zero, zed, nil, none, nada) fuel consumption between ~1000-1500 rpm. Then I realized &lt;em&gt;when a vehicle is coasting with the foot off the throttle, fuel consumption goes to zero at some points because fuel is not needed to keep the engine turning&lt;/em&gt; (ie: engine braking to an extent, but not quite). This is one way auto manufacturers use to improve fuel consumption. &lt;strong&gt;This is why engine braking uses less fuel than coasting in neutral.&lt;/strong&gt; In every vehicle which utilizes Electronic Fuel Injection (almost every new automobile on the market today uses some sort of EFI), there resides in the computer a &lt;em&gt;fuel map&lt;/em&gt;. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM - also known as Engine Control Module or ECM, etc.) takes input from several different sensors located on the engine. These sensors read such things as the engine coolant temperature, air intake temperature, manifold pressure, amount of air coming into the engine, as well as the throttle position, engine RPM, vehicle speed, and which gear the transmission is currently engaged (mind you it reads other input as well, these are just some of the main inputs ... each vehicle manufacturer can do their own thing differently). The PCM takes all of these inputs, shuffles them through algorithms, and comes up with the precise amount of time to leave the injector open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next graph, shows the relationship of throttle position to fuel consumption:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9bxm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image from article mentioned above.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This graph indicates that fuel consumption is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; linear to throttle position. You can expect the further you press on the pedal (and thus affect the throttle position), the more fuel you are going to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these facts in mind, let's try to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take my foot of the gas and coast for 30 seconds, would that be the same petrol consumption as sitting idle in traffic for 30 seconds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it is obvious, &lt;em&gt;sitting idle is going to get the worst fuel economy&lt;/em&gt;. Why? Because you are not moving. If one of your input factors in figuring fuel economy is distance traveled, in this case &amp;quot;0&amp;quot; (nil, zero, zed, nada, null) ... you've used 30 seconds of fuel keeping the engine running to achieve nothing, except for wasting fuel. Travelling &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; distance in the 30 seconds, regardless of engine or vehicle speed, is going to produce better fuel economy than sitting still. This is why some manufacturers have introduced systems in their vehicles which allow the engine to completely stop while sitting at a stop light, then as soon as you release the brake and step on the gas, the engine fires right back up and away you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if If I'm driving through a slow zone with the gas pedal 30% depressed, over a minute would that be the same gas consumption as driving on a motor way in top gear with the gas pedal at 30% depressed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are forgetting a few major factors here, one of which is vehicle speed versus engine speed. Remember, as you go faster (at least with an automatic gearbox), the transmission will shift up into another gear, until the transmission is either in the top gear, or in a gear consistent with the desired vehicle speed. So say, at 30mph, the engine is running at 2000 rpm (these numbers are just thrown out here for demonstration and may/may not actually be accurate) at your 30% throttle. Your engine will have turned a total of 1000 rotations and your vehicle will have traversed 1320 feet. Now, at highway speed (70mph) with the engine turning 2000rpm and 30% throttle, your vehicle will have traversed ~3080 feet. You should realize that as you go faster, other factors come into play. First, you only have so many gears in the gearbox. Once you've reached the top gear, that's all you have. At that point, in order to speed up, engine speed will have to increase. All vehicles are different as to wind resistance, so as you go faster, the air around the vehicle also starts to play a factor. The faster you go, the more wind resistance, and the more throttle you'll have to depress in order to maintain that speed (or go faster). All of this affects the fuel consumption. There is a point of diminishing returns as to vehicle speed versus fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please remember, when you are traveling a given speed (say 70mph), your throttle position will be much less than 30%. It doesn't take very much horsepower to keep a vehicle traveling at a constant speed. Your throttle will not need to be open as much in order to maintain that speed. The major factors in reference to your throttle position will be whether you, the driver, command the vehicle to speed up or slow down. Driver input is given directly through the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do slopes / hills have an influence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. As described above with the graphs, if you are going down hill and do not want to go faster, the first thing which you do is take your foot off of the pedal, which reduces your throttle position to 0%. The vehicle computer registers this and after a given time, will reduce the injector pulse width to zero allowing the momentum of the vehicle to keep the engine turning (through the gearbox). As soon as you open the throttle any given amount, the computer will start throwing fuel back at the engine. Mind you, this is a very simplified version of what really happens and each vehicle manufacturer is going to do it a little differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side of the equation, in order to go up a hill, you must depress the throttle more at a given speed to climb a hill. This is because it takes more energy output to maintain a given speed at an incline. Bottom line is, the engine will need more air and fuel to make it up the hill, therefor your throttle will be open further and the computer will increase the injector pulse width to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T14:54:59.673" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T14:54:59.673" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:45:22.147" Score="2" ViewCount="31050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen questions about engines revving when &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/5165/6726&quot;&gt;braking&lt;/a&gt; and when &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2130/6726&quot;&gt;idling&lt;/a&gt;, but my engine revs way up (and stays up) whenever it's in park--whether on startup or shifting to park. It doesn't rev unusually like this in any other gear. What would be the most probable reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2000 Saturn SL1 with 204,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T00:43:23.957" Title="Why does my engine rev up when I put it in park?" Tags="|rpm|saturn|sl1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15963" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:59:01.140" Score="5" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked through the questions to find an answer to my question and none of the questions seem to similar enough to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a 2002 Subaru Impreza Rs and the car is doing something strange; while driving it will randomly, but consistently, &quot;lose power&quot; for a split second while driving. This can be in any gear, at a constant speed or while accelerating. I first started to notice this when I was driving with the music off. Every once in a while I would hear this faint &quot;air release&quot; noise and power would seem to &quot;lag&quot; for the smallest amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time this occurs is when the AC is on. This would lead me to believe that it would be an AC component. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;update below&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor seems to be working fine. The ac blows super cold, strong air and the ac works at idle and works on every setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about the AC system and all its components so I don't really know where to go next. Could it be a leak somewhere that releases air when enough pressure is built up? Could some internal component of the compressor be slipping or seizing up? I asked a shop and they want to charge a few hundred bucks to put die in the system and check for leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any in site or direction would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;******************UPDATE********************&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as i have driven this car more I've been noticing a squeaky belt noise when I start the car for the first time after it sitting for a while. (mornings before work and after work to drive home) It usually lasts for about 15 or 20 seconds and is gone. This could be unrelated but i figured I'd through it in just in case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I've noticed is that the issue explained above doesn't only happen when the AC is on. I've been driving with a bit more heat now that the weather is getting colder and it still does it when the fan is on. (When the fan is off I'm yet to notice it doing it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with the load the AC system puts on the engine and it doesn't feel like that at all. The RPM's don't go down or anything when the problem occurs. It's just a little chirping noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best idea still seems to be that the AC compressor has little mini-seizes every now and then. (That would definitely cause a load on the engine)  However, if that were true I don't understand why this would happen with the fan on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastEditorUserId="6725" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T12:48:42.837" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T15:14:22.350" Title="What AC component would likely be the problem with my consistent power loss while driving?" Tags="|ac|subaru|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11850" CreationDate="2014-08-15T16:13:54.477" Score="2" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use my phone for GPS these days, but it drains the battery something chronic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than having a cable dangling down from the windscreen all the way to the cigarette socket, I was wondering if there's any way to wire a USB connection to the central display (use for radio, clock, etc), which is right by where I want the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6727" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T15:01:16.463" Title="Can I hack a usb cable into the console display in my Vauxhall Meriva?" Tags="|vauxhall|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T16:48:44.687" Score="4" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe started screaming and the wheel locked up. I turned the car off then back on, and it was fine. Drove it home and parked it, and when I drove it again, the wheel was hard to turn, but there was no noise at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had someone put some power steering fluid in it, and it leaked straight out on the ground after starting, but the wheel got easier to turn. Don't know if it's a pressure hose pump or rack and pinion. There are air bubbles in the reservoir where you pour the fluid in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should my next step be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6728" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T19:24:34.953" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T20:09:38.347" Title="Steering wheel locks up after screeching noise and air bubbles in power steering reservoir" Tags="|hyundai|power-steering|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11843" CreationDate="2014-08-15T18:22:56.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular engine (single cam) commonly has an intake gasket leak with high idle as a symptom.  There are other common issues with the same behavior such as the throttle position sensor, idle air controller, and engine coolant temperature sensor.  Some googling into saturn forums will provide more troubleshooting and info than I could in a reasonable-length post here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3774" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T18:22:56.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T18:55:19.987" Score="1" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would cause a fuel injected motor to kick back while cranking it? I have a 1999 chevy suburban 4wd 5.7 ltr.  I know it needs an intake manifold gasket, but would that cause it to kick back and ruin my starters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6729" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T20:09:57.077" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T16:24:12.060" Title="99 chevy suburban motor kicks back" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11848" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:22:38.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your truck needs an intake manifold gasket (actually you'll change both sides if you do), get this done and see if it solves your problems. Fix the things which you know need fixed. This may or may not solve your backfire issue, but at least you can go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing is the most conventional thought here, though. I believe the 99 still had the GENI SBC which utilized the HEI distributor (2000 is the first year for the LM7, right?). Double check to ensure your spark plug wires are in the proper order (especially if you just did a tune-up). Also, as long as the distributor wasn't removed, the normal position of the HEI should be 90deg (perpendicular) to the longitudinal axis of the engine (axis is front to back, cap of distributor should be left to right), with the wire harness coming off of the driver's side of the cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:22:38.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:39:57.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than connecting it to something in the display, you should run a hot lead down to your fuse panel and tie in there. You'll still need some way to reduce the voltage. Car battery voltage is 12+ vdc. The power which goes out through a USB device is 5vdc. In order to achieve this, you'll need to some how hide the power adapter behind the dash (or up under the dash), using a long USB cable up to where you want your display to sit (I'm assuming mounted to your windscreen via suction cup?). The type of cable you use to attach from the fuse box to your power adapter, will affect exactly how you'd hook it up. What I'm talking about is using something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2cgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;12vdc cigarette lighter socket from Amazon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you'd attach the red lead to a hot in the fuse box and the black wire would then be attached to a known ground (earth). You could then use a regular cigarette lighter style USB power supply with a straight cable attached. Put all of the stuff you don't want to see up underneath the dash (zip ties are your friend!) with just enough USB cable to get to your device. I believe this will get you what you want without too much trouble. I suggest this route because I believe it would be the most fool proof approach with the least amount of trouble (or possibility of trouble).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:39:57.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11846" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:21:04.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screeching and fluid on the ground you have described is typical of a large system leak on your power steering. You will need to have a mechanic/repair shop look at your system. Do not drive the vehicle, firstly because of the safety implications and secondly because driving the vehicle will extend any damage that may have been caused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T21:21:04.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:29:27.057" Score="1" ViewCount="70215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a John Deere LX176 lawn tractor and am confused about its hydrostatic transmission oil. The manual states that the hydrostatic transmission oil should be &quot;SAE 10w30 engine oil with API classifications of SE, CC or CD&quot; but I don't know what those classifications mean. Would just regular oil do or could I even use some multi-purpose automatic transmission fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6731" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T22:26:58.100" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T05:23:36.533" Title="Hydrostatic transmission oil confusion" Tags="|oil|transmission|john-deere|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:32:03.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mobile phone chargers are readily available on eBay for very little money. Connecting any items to the graphic display is a very big no-no. GPS and mobile phones should not be in the drivers field of view because of safety concerns, in doing so it would be &quot;Driving without due care and attention&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T21:32:03.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:37:02.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your AirCon compressor will cycle on and off, partly as a pressure control procedure. It will also cycle off on a full throttle. These cycle operations are usually imperceptable to the driving experiance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T21:37:02.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9843" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:42:51.867" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you just had a speed sensor go bad, Just happens sometimes. It happened to me on my suburban. it caused my front passenger brake caliper to grab and release realy fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6729" LastEditorUserId="6729" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T03:00:11.543" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T03:00:11.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-08-15T21:54:28.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil bottle will state what API classifications it meets. You need SAE 10w30 that lists one of those classifications on the bottle. Any standard 10w30 motor oil should have it. Just check for it when you buy the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T21:54:28.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11860" CreationDate="2014-08-16T00:44:04.263" Score="1" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;This piece fell off when a rock hit the car and now I'm looking to replace it but I don't know what I'm shopping for. Can anyone tell me the name of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2013 Dodge Avenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vAdvt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6732" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T02:01:13.437" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T13:41:45.607" Title="What is the name of this plastic piece under the Dodge Avenger headlight?" Tags="|maintenance|dodge|headlight|replace|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-08-16T01:48:46.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.api.org/certification-programs/engine-oil-diesel-exhaust-fluid/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SE was from way back (circa 1979)&lt;/a&gt;, so any off the shelf oil should be well ahead of that at a minimum. The current standard is SN. Since I would assume you will not be changing this oil very often, I would highly suggest you purchase some thing like Royal Purple or some other high grade synthetic engine oil. I know it's a little expensive, but considering you won't be changing it very often, the expense is well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T01:48:46.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11858" CreationDate="2014-08-16T02:00:11.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe they are calling it the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/feeds/Dodge/Avenger/Replacement/Bumper%20Grille/2013/REPD015506.html?dbpcid=productads&amp;amp;c_aid=16886302222&amp;amp;c2cid=50e4b380-753c-4002-876d-765f75fdca53&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Outer Bumper Grill, Driver's Side &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fFj5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T02:00:11.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11858" CreationDate="2014-08-16T02:00:47.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take your car to the dealer and have it replaced under warranty, and inspected for further damage. If a rock hit it hard enough to knock it out, then their may be other damage you didn't see, or the part was at least defective, because that should not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is called a &lt;em&gt;Lamp Bezel&lt;/em&gt;, and the list price is about $70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastEditorUserId="6599" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T13:41:45.607" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T13:41:45.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11832" CreationDate="2014-08-16T15:14:37.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Petrol consumption is the sum of many factors which in day to day driving do not concern the driver. The greatest fuel consumption figures are obtained when the highest gear possible is used, with the minimum of throttle to maintain vehicle speed or desired acceleration. Consider the new Jeep fitted with a nine speed transmission. What this works out to is at 70 MPH the engine RPM is only 1700 and means 'WOW!' figures for the MPG. Going up a hill would use more fuel as the vehicle has to carry out work to climb the hill. Coasting out of gear to save a modicum of fuel is a game for mugs to play, best not to do it. Technically, if the car is driven and coasted then the vehicle is legally out of the full control of the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="3975" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T15:21:22.527" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T15:21:22.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11864" CreationDate="2014-08-16T17:09:28.170" Score="5" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can you ensure, when you are purchasing body parts online or from a vendor, that the parts you get are going to be an exact fit for your vehicle? I’ve heard horror stories of body parts not lining up or looking terrible once installed because they are not exactly right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T17:10:25.230" Title="How to ensure body repair parts will fit?" Tags="|parts|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11863" CreationDate="2014-08-16T17:10:25.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a certification program called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.capacertified.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Certified Automotive Parts Association or CAPA&lt;/a&gt;. It not only covers body parts, but other parts as well. If you purchase a part which is CAPA Certified, you can be assured the parts will have the same fit and finish as original equipment manufacture (OEM) parts. This is from the CAPA website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Certified Automotive Parts Association (CAPA) is a non-profit organization established in 1987 to develop and oversee a test program guaranteeing the suitability and quality of automotive parts. CAPA encourages competition in the marketplace in the hope that their program will ultimately reduce expense to the consumer and the industry while increasing and assuring part quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has the CAPA seal, you can be assured the part is exactly what you need and will fit exactly as the OEM part would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lwypz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;CAPA Certification Seal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T17:10:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11828" CreationDate="2014-08-16T18:15:30.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the battery on your car will do nothing to improve fuel consumption. If you disconnect the battery to lose any memories the ECU will revert to EOL (End Of *production*Line) programmes. Driving the vehicle will then reset fuel trims to minimise engine emissions and consumption using the oxygen sensors, and anti-knock sensor for maximum ignition advance. A check on the oxygen sensor switching and voltages will tell you if it aged or not. Renewing an aged sensor will improve MPG, but the sensors can last from around 50,000 miles to several times that mileage. Switching speeds and voltages are the key. If the knock sensor is out then you will have pinking. The accelerator pedal position sensor speed of application will affect injector opening times, longer injection opening times-more fuel used. The differance between the fuel consumption between differant drivers is dependant on their sensitivity to their driving style. Gentle acceleration, anticipation for gentle braking, good maintenance of the vehicle, even down to the correct oil in the engine as modern low-viscosity oils lend themselves to MPG, tyre pressures correct, any unnecessary 'luggage' in the boot removed and anything like roof-boxes removed so that the tractive effort of the vehicle is at a minimum all go towards an optimum MPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T18:15:30.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11823" CreationDate="2014-08-16T18:32:50.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a gas test carried out on your vehicle, it is often forgotten just how much information a gas test provides. Among the causes for P0300 are bad plugs, bad plug wires, bad ignition coils, leaking fuel injectors, massive air/vacuum leaks, and EVAP system faults. If you can have your vehicle scanned using an OBD scanner and also by a scanner compatable with the vehicles manufacturers. The OBD scanner will show the engine sensors and actuators actual values, whilst the OEM scanner can go deeper but may include substituted values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T18:32:50.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11820" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:04:25.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you start your engine and it runs up to operating temperature most of the air in the system is let out of the rad cap. When the engine cools down some air is drawn back into the cooling system. The amount of involved is accomodated by the volume of the cooling system in total. The full mark is used on a cold engine to minimise this air activity to a once only event. If you are having to top up your system every short while then you do have a water leak. This can be an external leak, and can be seen by water/antifreeze stains or drips on the engine or cooling system parts. The engine can also leak internally, and this is more usually the case when you have a boiling and bubbling event in the water reservoir that you fill with coolant. &lt;strong&gt;Never remove the rad cap on a hot engine.&lt;/strong&gt; A further possibility is the water pump on your engine has a failed impeller and is not circulating the water through thr rad for cooling. Have the vehicle checked at your favourite repair shop to avoid any engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:04:25.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11819" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:14:18.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have changed the fuel pressure sensor, and you have a low fuel pressure reading. The fuel pressure sensor reports the fuel pressure in the system. This pressure is controlled by the &lt;strong&gt;fuel pressure regulator&lt;/strong&gt;. You will need to have a fuel pressue test which at idle should be 3.7-3.9 bar. A low reading will point at the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:14:18.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11815" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:26:34.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are driving in a straight line, the load on the front axle is shared equally between the two front hubs, so any noises will be low. When you turn to the left, there is a weight transfer to the outside wheel(right wheel) and any noises from it will be more accentuated/louder. It is the opposite when you turn right. You need to check your hub bearings by rocking the wheels in the vertical plane with the vehicle raised and securely sitting on stands. Spinning the wheels by hand may also give you enough noise to make a diagnosis. Because changing the hub bearing involves pressing them in and out, this is a repair shop job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:26:34.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11799" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:34:34.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A differant/wrong oil in an auto trans will damage seals made with incompatable materials to the oil, so the correct oil must be used. Differant viscosities of oils will effect the engagement and timing of engagement of the clutches and bands as the oils evacuation and filling of their servos will take longer, or, shorter depending on the viscosity of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:34:34.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:42:30.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chatter on your serpentine belt tension is normal operation. As the engine speeds up and slows, imperceptable to the naked eye, during normal operation the effect from the crankshaft is absorbed by the tensioner and avoids a code P0300-Random engine misfire. You need to check your vehicles electronics with a scan, before deciding on a plan of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T19:42:30.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2014-08-16T21:17:03.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are mixing two different engine oil ratings - API and ACEA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your engine requires API SG or higher, and the oil you have is API SN, there should be no issue with using this oil in your gasoline / petrol engine as it is well above the rating for your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in stating that ACEA A-rated oils are for petrol / gas engines, however so are the ACEA C rated oils. If in doubt, check the API rating which should be available for the oil as virtually all vehicles have this (API) oil rating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T21:17:03.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9806" CreationDate="2014-08-17T01:39:15.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you bore, but I'm not sure that block CAN be bored. Some can't - the water jacket is too close. Sometimes, even, those that SAY they can actually cannot because of a casting inclusion or bubble. If boring breaks into one, the block is suddenly complete junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it's a '99, and the entire drivetrain has been subjected to a LOT of miles of wear, and I don't have tons of faith in the electronics in any '99 vehicle lasting much longer, I'd suggest just honing instead. I don't think you can realistically expect to get another fifteen years' use out of that truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a '79, I'd say take the chance - bore it, and if you break through into the water jacket, get another block &amp;amp; rebuild THAT. If it was a '69, I'd even urge you more strongly to do that. Not for a '99, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... my vote is for a honing. If your measurements are actually correct (there's ALWAYS some question of that), you're still within a thousandth of an inch nearly everywhere. That's a HUGE lot less wear than a lot of motors I've had apart for reasons OTHER than full-up rebuilding, not even enough to make a good ridge. I'm betting you didn't even have to ream the tops of the cylinders to get the pistons out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T01:39:15.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11846" CreationDate="2014-08-17T01:44:53.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Allen Osborne, I had this happen to my Suburban, the line on the back of the pump loosened up and started pouring fluid out. Get a mechanic to check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6729" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T01:44:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T12:45:41.060" Score="1" ViewCount="5906" Body="&lt;p&gt;2008 Malibu A/C blows hot air on acceleration. At idle or once maintained speed, it cools and blows cold again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-17T13:50:48.410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:49:18.607" Title="A/C blows hot air on acceleration" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11878" CreationDate="2014-08-17T15:23:26.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXx21L6Kixw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXx21L6Kixw&lt;/a&gt; Your AirCon is turned off by the system when you accelerate to allow full power from the engine to accelerate the vehicle. The video link will show you how to clean the carbon tracks on the AirCon control knobs. The symptoms you describe could very well be caused by 'dirty' tracks. Further to this an AirCon service at your repair shop should find any problems such as a gas leak and low charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T15:23:26.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9670" CreationDate="2014-08-17T22:53:02.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wrong about the wiring. The speakers were wired to subwoofer outputs instead of the mains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T22:53:02.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11883" CreationDate="2014-08-17T23:28:04.417" Score="9" ViewCount="4828" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlight lenses on my vehicle (a 2001 Ford F-150) are cloudy, and presumably as a result, the headlights are not terribly effective.  (I could post a photo if you want.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a polishing kit (Mother NuLens) and used it as directed.  The cloudiness improved slightly but is still pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other questions on this site, the next step appears to be attacking the lenses with various grades of sandpaper and finishing with a final polish.  Given my general level of automotive incompetence, I'm guessing this will take me at least a couple of hours (including the return trip to the store when I inevitably discover I've bought the wrong kind of sandpaper, or not enough).  The materials will also cost something, and I don't discount the possibility that I'll massively screw up and irreparably scratch or crack the lenses, damage the paint, or perhaps just burn the truck down to the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So before I get started, I'm hoping to get a sense of what kind of results I can expect for my trouble.  If I do things properly (far from a safe assumption), should I end up with glistening, showroom-new headlight lenses, and finally be able to start blinding drivers in the opposing lane?  Or is the best case a marginal improvement in clarity and brightness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cause unless I can really expect the polishing to make a pretty significant difference, I'd rather save myself the carpal tunnel and just get a new set of lenses (even if that means replacing the whole headlight assembly), possibly from a junkyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like before-and-after pictures would be great, provided they come from a real person and not a polishing-kit vendor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is somewhat related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3664/new-headlight-lenses&quot;&gt;New headlight lenses?&lt;/a&gt; but a bit different.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T02:36:29.563" Title="Realistically, how much can I expect to improve cloudy headlights by polishing?" Tags="|ford|headlight|f-150|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11882" CreationDate="2014-08-18T00:03:13.363" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That process you're describing is VERY familiar to me - I do that for people from time to time. The difference is REALLY SIGNIFICANT... and at most it should take you five minutes of actual work per headlight - it's really pretty minimal, with diminishing returns VERY quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS WET-SAND. Do NOT dry-sand. Start with nothing less than #600 sandpaper, stop at no less than #2000. You can step 600-1000-1500-2000. Let the lenses dry. If they're not pretty spectacular yet, give them a dose of automotive &quot;swirl remover&quot; for good measure. Finish up with good silicone-free, 100% carnauba, paste wax (Butcher's or Johnson's or certain types of Turtle). Let THAT set up, buff off. Looks wet. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T00:03:13.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T07:49:22.200" Score="-1" ViewCount="10049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a Nissan Micra K12 1.0(CR10DE) that I've bought recently. It is running hot all the time no matter I'm driving it or not. I have checked the thermostat and found it removed, before that I took it for diagnostics scan due to hard starting and high fuel consumption and I was told to replace the crankshaft position sensor (replaced with no positive effect). What is the problem and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6740" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T21:51:06.407" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T17:20:07.203" Title="High engine temperature" Tags="|engine|nissan|cooling|micra|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11884" CreationDate="2014-08-18T08:18:51.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, your thermostat was removed? In that case, have a new one installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, there could be lots of reasons for your engine running hot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A blockage in the cooling system, e.g. if there's something blocking the radiator or one of the pipes have collapsed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough coolant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;losing pressure in the cooling system, e.g. if there's a leaking pipe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a broken waterpump&lt;/strong&gt; - this is my guess. The waterpump pumps coolant around the engine. If it's broken, there won't be any flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the engine is running too lean (not getting enough fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the thermostat stays closed. Not your problem, but maybe for someone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough oil or the wrong type of oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T09:40:57.727" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T09:40:57.727" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:16:01.050" Score="3" ViewCount="1350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Audi A3 car w/ 1,6 liter gas engine and an automatic transmission. My trouble is that at times the car will only start at the third attempt. So far my observation is that this seems not be be on cold starts and I was always able to start the car after third attempt at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start looking for the cause/what should I tell the serviceman? Is there any investigation I can perhaps do by myself using OBD II module and a phone? I'm worried that one of those times the car won't start at all, probably when it is least convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any malfunctions with unknown cause, I'm worried the service will milk me dry if I let them start replacing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6744" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T11:33:05.777" Title="Audi A3 sometimes starts at the third attempts" Tags="|starting|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11902" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:21:28.793" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Audi A3 with automatic transmission is emmiting this weird sound when I let off the gas at slow speeds. I think the car shifts up to a more efficient gear (probably 3) thinking I don't need to accelerate quickly, but it is accompanied by a thud type sound in the background. I wonder what I can do about this and what might be the possible cause before more harm is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6744" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T22:10:34.990" Title="Audible thud when automatic shifting" Tags="|automatic-transmission|audi|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11884" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:41:27.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the simpliest solutions is to check coolant route:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There can be air in hoses, add some coolant while revving engine (it will pump liquid and you can fill air with a liquid)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check tubes for bend, it can stop liquid flow&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure crank sensor can cause heat, but o2 sensor can. If your AFR is lean it can produce more heat. Anyway, please provide exact coolant temp and environment temp, as if you are in Africa then even boiling water in radiator is ok ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:41:27.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:52:06.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check your brake disks and pads. If pads were worn they can damage disks and it will cause a vibration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:52:06.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:35:22.833" Score="2" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 1999 Nissan Quest with plenty of miles (over 217k). We didn't notice anything on the long drive home, but since have noticed that after a few minutes driving, it has smoke coming out of the engine compartment. It's not noticeable until the vehicle is parked, so far (i.e. it's not belching out to the degree we can see smoke while driving, but perhaps that's because the source is low). When the vehicle has been running a bit, the engine compartment does seem unusually hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't suspect any problem with the cooling system itself though. The thermostat was changed this spring, the coolant level is fine, and there are no other signs of overheating, including the temperature gauge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, and I'm not sure this is related or not, but there is a sound that occurs when accelerating, too high pitched to call a click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the smoke seemed to be coming from near the back of the engine compartment, I initially thought to check the transmission fluid, although I didn't really think that would cause smoking. It was indeed low, but topping it up did not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wondered whether it might be related to the timing belt (I hope not!), but I'm not reading these sorts of symptoms relating to timing belt wear, and while I do get a burnt smell, I doesn't really recognize it as rubber, so....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility I thought of, since the smoke comes out underneath in the neighbourhood of the wheels, is that the brakes are catching just enough not to impede acceleration but enough to smoke. Not sure if that's the right smell either, but it may be. Kind of hope it's that, since the vehicle needs brake maintenance anyway (braking feels soft, and brakes are usually something I want to deal with when buying a used vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6745" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T23:38:55.897" Title="smoking coming from 1999 Nissan Quest" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12040" CreationDate="2014-08-18T16:39:36.563" Score="1" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to find which cars a particular battery (24F - 750 cold cranking amps, 925 cranking amps) is compatible with.  How can I look this up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6746" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T16:46:33.023" Title="Finding cars that a particular battery is compatible with" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11899" CreationDate="2014-08-18T17:46:28.313" Score="0" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with a 1998 Malibu. I keep getting several codes but primarily P0420. I have replace the Catalytic Converter twice. Both oxygen sensors have been replaced. I have checked the Mass Air Flow and EGR and they both appear to be functioning correctly. Can anyone provide ideas to resolving this? Below are the output from Carista and Torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carista&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;OBD2 - confirmed:&#xA;P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow &quot;A&quot; Circuit Low&#xA;P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch &quot;A&quot; Circuit Low&#xA;P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation &quot;A&quot; Flow Insufficient Detected&#xA;P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1&#xA;&#xA;OBD2 - pending:&#xA;P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation &quot;A&quot; Flow Insufficient Detected&#xA;P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1&#xA;P1441&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Fault log report generated by Torque for Android&#xA;=================================================&#xA;&#xA;Vehicle VIN: Not present&#xA;Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown&#xA;Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present&#xA;&#xA;Current Fault Log&#xA;------------------&#xA;P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input&#xA;P0122: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input&#xA;P0401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected&#xA;P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)&#xA;&#xA;Pending Fault Log&#xA;------------------&#xA;P1441: [BMW] Leakage Diagnostic Pump Control Open Circuit&#xA;[Chrysler] Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge&#xA;[Nissan] Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve&#xA;[Dodge] Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge&#xA;[Jeep] Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge&#xA;[Seat/Audi/Volkswagen] EGR Valve Circ Open/Short to Ground&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android&#xA;================================================&#xA;&#xA;Vehicle VIN: Not present&#xA;Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown&#xA;Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present&#xA;&#xA;Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type&#xA;of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.&#xA;&#xA;Test report:&#xA;------------------&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$04&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$10&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 79&#xA;Test result value: 79&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$11&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 250&#xA;Test result value: 171&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$20&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 250&#xA;Test result value: 15&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$26&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 100&#xA;Test result value: 8&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$30&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$31&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 110&#xA;Test result value: 138&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$40&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$46&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 65&#xA;Test result value: 65&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$35&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 111&#xA;Test result value: 47&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$41&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 342&#xA;Test result value: 49&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$07 CID:$0c&#xA;- Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated)&#xA;Max: 0&#xA;Test result value: 65,491&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$07 CID:$0d&#xA;- Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated)&#xA;Max: 1&#xA;Test result value: 2&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0c CID:$20&#xA;- Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated)&#xA;Max: 0&#xA;Test result value: 33,536&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$04&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$10&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 79&#xA;Test result value: 79&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$11&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 250&#xA;Test result value: 171&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$20&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 250&#xA;Test result value: 15&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$26&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 100&#xA;Test result value: 8&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$30&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$31&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Max: 110&#xA;Test result value: 138&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$40&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$02 CID:$46&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)&#xA;Min: 65&#xA;Test result value: 65&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$35&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 111&#xA;Test result value: 47&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$41&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 342&#xA;Test result value: 49&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$07 CID:$0c&#xA;- Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated)&#xA;Max: 0&#xA;Test result value: 65,491&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$07 CID:$0d&#xA;- Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated)&#xA;Max: 1&#xA;Test result value: 2&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0c CID:$20&#xA;- Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated)&#xA;Max: 0&#xA;Test result value: 33,536&#xA;FAIL&#xA;----&#xA;&#xA;End of report.   &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6748" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T21:14:16.620" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T21:14:16.620" Title="Persisting 1998 Malibu Exhaust Problem" Tags="|chevrolet|exhaust|malibu|emissions|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11900" CreationDate="2014-08-18T19:31:58.807" Score="2" ViewCount="2168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own Toyota Avensis 2001 D4D 2.0 estate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/ury2rt9wct6dasz/2014-08-18%2017.25.46.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/ury2rt9wct6dasz/2014-08-18%2017.25.46.mp4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to start it - it wont even turn the starter, nothing happens except lights on dashboard go nuts and I can constantly hear clicking sounds. Non of the electronics work - my high beams don't work (just more clicking sound, but no lights), radio doesn't work, just clicking sound and sometimes lighting comes back on for a seconds (as you can see in the video), central locking doesn't work - again, just more clicking sound from the doors. Generally, anything that is electric doesn't work, just makes clicking sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I checked my battery, and it is at 12.6V, which is perfect. I checked if car's body has ground on it - yes, it does. Then I disconnected the battery and waited for a couple of minutes and reconnected it again. After this my car works like a charm, without any issues what so ever. Alternator is charging at 14.3V constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue? My guess is most probably the wires that are connecting battery to the car. I would say that my starter is going bad, but it works beautifully without any noises and also, all of my electronics didn't work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I has this issue about a week ago. And I cured it by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it again (after a few minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6749" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T01:49:31.623" Title="Clicking sound when trying to use electronics in my car" Tags="|battery|alternator|starter|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11882" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:19:07.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most realistic answer to this increasingly common fogging is to fit new headlamps, or lenses if they are available seperately for your vehicle. Problems can and do arise with the headlamps beam pattern and glare. It is just unrealistic to expect a polished up lens made from modern plastic to afford the same performance as a new one. In the UK 'fogged' vehicle headlamps end up in the bin if they do not pass their annual inspection. The cost of replacement can be reduced by a great amount by after-market replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:19:07.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11884" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:29:38.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The removal of the thermostat on an engine will cause poor circulation of the coolant and cause overheating on its own, especially at the furthest cylinders. On the Nissan K12 the timing chains have always have had a tendency to stretch. (They are a simple single link chain.) This may be contributing to a wrong diagnosis of the crankshaft sensor. Your cooling system needs to be professionally flow checked, to include a flow check on the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:29:38.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11886" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:46:12.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cause of your starting problem is unknown because the vehicle has not been checked-scanned- for it. A program like Torque Pro will offer you the ability to retrieve fault codes with your smart phone, but a code on its own is not the complete answer. The code should be considered as what the vehicles computer thinks is wrong. In very many instances the component indicated by the fault code is not at fault, but is being affected by another part of the system. Testing of the systems is the art of it. From your description the engine cooling temperature sensor(ECT) is proberly part of the problem. The ECT has a dual circuit. One circuit is used to adjust the fuel when the engine is cold, the second circuit comes into play once the vehicle has started to warm up and reduces the fuel used. This allows a more precise temperature control over the engine heat range. If the second circuit is at fault the engine will be run too rich when warm and cause poor warm starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:46:12.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11890" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:53:22.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the cam cover gaskets and any other gaskets for oil leakage. It could be you have an oil drip onto your exhaust causing the 'smoke'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:53:22.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11892" CreationDate="2014-08-18T21:10:20.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and off again as soon as you get the revs up. A good MAF voltage will rise to around 4 volts. The voltage rise to around 4 volts will prove the MAK is Ok. You can try the MAF voltage as a before and after test of the EGR being blanked off. If you get an improvement you know its the EGR at fault. Looking at your description of the fault you have to be critical of the EGR as a faulty EGR will give you a host of 'ghost' codes which seems to be the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T21:10:20.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11893" CreationDate="2014-08-18T21:16:49.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer appears to be in the question. A full check on the battery clamps and cables, including the earth attachment to the vehicle should be carried out. Dont forget that the battery cables themselves can break down internally even when they look OK externally. The clicking and lights going haywire you descibe point to a battery, battery circuits or starter problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T21:16:49.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11891" CreationDate="2014-08-18T21:20:23.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer of the battery you have will almost certainly have a web site with all the technical information on it. Usually though when you have a particular vehicle or piece of plant you look up the battery for it, the opposite way round to what you are asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T21:20:23.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11887" CreationDate="2014-08-18T21:43:46.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the issue is probably with the torque rod (on some cars called a dog bone) which keeps the engine/transmission in check during acceleration/deceleration. At least one end of the &quot;dog bone&quot; has a hard rubber piece which can wear out over time. Depending on how worn out it is, the noise will could be louder or not. You would probably notice it will start getting louder over time as more and more of the rubber starts to tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of an aftermarket (billet) piece. It is for an 1996 - 2003 Audi A3/S3 (8L). Yours should look something like it (depending on the year), only not nearly as pretty :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RGDe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from 034motorsport.com&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image with the location of the dogbone. It is #8 on the diagram and appears as it is right up front on the A3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZE80c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T22:10:34.990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T22:10:34.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T00:13:16.027" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm resurfacing/trimming my rotors, do I have to replace my brake pads too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6752" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:14:32.627" Title="Do I change my brakes, because I'm trimming my rotors?" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2014-08-19T00:34:44.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) - that fluid is NOT compatible with the oil that's in there now, and it may even wreck your seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If John Deere wants you to use regular ol' motor oil (which is part and parcel of their specification), that's what you should use. Depending upon your climate, you may need 10W30 or you may be able to get by just fine with anything from straight 10 to straight 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that tractor were mine... I'd use the exact same oil in the transmission as in the crankcase, nothing special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T00:34:44.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11904" CreationDate="2014-08-19T00:59:31.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should. The price of new pads (in most cases) is small $$. This will get you fresh mating surfaces on both sides. If you don't, you run the risk of screwing up your fresh cut on the old rotors. Don't forget to correctly bed the new brakes after installation or you run the risk of being back at square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T00:59:31.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11890" CreationDate="2014-08-19T01:38:41.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the oil first, whether you think you have a leak or not. That ticking sound may be classic lifter noise from low oil level, or it could be a likewise classic rattle (&quot;knock&quot;) from an overheated engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really believe it's not an oil leak onto the exhaust, then check the wheels. If your brakes are getting hot enough to glaze the pads (this makes a nasty acrid smoke) and/or smoke the lines, the hubs will be very hot to the touch and the rotors will be hot enough to give your fingertips a nasty burn. The calipers MAY not be releasing fully, in which case you're in for a full-up all-pieces brake job - pads, calipers, rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T01:38:41.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11893" CreationDate="2014-08-19T01:49:31.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one nearly screams &quot;battery connection&quot;. I think you need to clean those battery posts &amp;amp; clamps with a battery brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T01:49:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11920" CreationDate="2014-08-19T14:09:56.767" Score="1" ViewCount="2845" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potentially buying a 99' Nissan Maxima from some friends. It has 160k miles on it and they are looking to get the &quot;good&quot; private party value from KBB for the car. The car is a manual, if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had them take it to our shop to get it looked at before the sale just so there would be no surprises. The shop said that it appears both the front and rear crankshaft seals are leaking some oil. They advised that I would need to keep an eye on the oil level if we were to purchase the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spoken with my friend (who is more mechanically inclined than myself) and he agreed that we could fix the front seal ourselves before the sale. The rear seal, however...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't laid eyes on the leak myself, and even if I did I don't yet have enough experience to know what I am looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we replace the front seal, what is the likelihood that the rear seal will fail? The cost of that repair is easily 60% the KBB value of the car. I'm sure that there are many factors that go into this, but if the seal doesn't have a major leak can I nurse it along for 40 or 50k more miles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What indicators should I look for that would point to the seal failing? It's also possible that my friend would lower the price of the vehicle so the repair could be completed, but I don't want either of us to throw away our money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for an educated guess from someone with more background than myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt; Seems like there aren't tags for &quot;crankshaft&quot; or &quot;seal&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T22:54:17.990" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T03:26:02.863" Title="Likelihood of rear crankshaft seal failure" Tags="|troubleshooting|gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11411" CreationDate="2014-08-19T14:35:13.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thought: Quite a few years ago I had a full-sized van, and the water pump failed. I replaced the pump (used new gaskets, of course), and re-used the old antifreeze. It wasn't enough to fill the radiator, so I added more. My stepson drove the van the next day... and when he got back from work, the radiator was half-empty again. I pulled the water pump and found NO gaskets, so I replaced them AGAIN, and topped off the antifreeze again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened regularly three times in a row - replace the gaskets, torque the bolts down correctly, top off the radiator, and the next day the gaskets had disappeared. I tried several different types of gasket material, even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This led me to some quick research, which taught me about antifreeze chemistry. There exist on the market today no less than five different mutually-incompatible antifreeze chemistries, and if the wrong two are ever mixed together, the resulting mix is very highly corrosive - especially to gaskets. EVEN HEAD GASKETS. One of the big offenders is GM's famous &quot;Dex-Cool&quot; extended-lifetime antifreeze, but there are other similar antifreezes on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've moved a long way since the way when we just went and got some Prestone to top off our radiators. Now we have to be CAREFUL about what we put into our cooling system - now we have to select ONE antifreeze and stick with THAT ONE, never mixing any other type with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that whomever replaced your water pump reused your old antifreeze, which wasn't enough to refill your cooling system, then topped off with &quot;whatever&quot; antifreeze, and the mix has eaten the new water-pump gaskets just like my mix ate mine several times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cure? Replace the water pump and thermostat gaskets again (with luck, it won't have damaged any other gaskets YET), discarding all the existing coolant, then have the entire cooling system fully flushed, select ONE preferred antifreeze, and refill your cooling system with THAT antifreeze. KEEP at least ONE of the antifreeze jugs so you can verify for sure that you buy exactly the same stuff next time you have to top off your cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T14:35:13.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11921" CreationDate="2014-08-19T19:03:39.840" Score="2" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i got in the car this morning, and it felt like i still had my handbrake on when i pulled off. Check that, it wasn't on. Drove on a little bit thinking i was imagining it, finally accepted it was definitely a problem, turned round and came home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walked round, and immediately felt the heat radiating from the offside rear wheel. Put the car on stands, wheel off, and i played around with the metal lever that the handbrake cable attaches too, i noticed that the spring that pulls it back to the original position (and releases the pads from the disc) wasn't pulling it back all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pushed that metal lever another 5 or 10 mm (my measurement by sight is as bad as my mechanics) and the disc free'd up and started to spin (admittedly it was still catching a little, but i think thats because the disc is slightly warped to be honest, my brother said it looked warped anyway!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i guess my question is, how possible is it that the spring has worn out, and that it's unable to fully retract itself and pull the lever all the way to release the brake pads from the disc? Or is this a red herring, and that lever doesn't have to go all the way back in order to release the disc, and there's a build up of grime or another problem elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these springs do wear out over time, how easy are they to replace. I checked the EPC for my motor, and i cant find a part number for the spring anywhere! The closest i've come to finding a replacement part is one forum thread that mentions someone having to go to the VX parts desk  for a replacement spring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment i'm half and half as to whether to continue the DIY route and hope a spring works, or wether to bite the bullet and just get a professional in to take a look&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a Vauxhall Vectra 1.9CDTi (2007 reg plate) if that makes any difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice would be appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:31:27.093" Title="Handbreak return spring Vauxhall/Opel Vectra" Tags="|brakes|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11971" CreationDate="2014-08-19T19:13:10.560" Score="4" ViewCount="15294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2010 VW Golf. The AC has not been working at all lately. Before taking it in to the pros, I bought an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/automotive/air-conditioning-heating/air-conditioning-maintenance/refrigerant/red-tek-a-c-refrigerant-recharge-kit-0146129p.html#.U_OfIWNVUR8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AC Recharge Kit&lt;/a&gt; and only got to step 1 on the directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hooked it up to the &quot;high&quot; side of the AC compressor, the pressure gauge showed 30 psi. Step 1 is something like &quot;slowly release refrigerant into the system until the pressure reaches 30 psi.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I concluded that it wasn't in fact low on refrigerant and took it into the dealership. It turns out it was in fact very low on refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What did I do wrong?&lt;/strong&gt; (I know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/6064/6759&quot;&gt;DIY AC Recharging is not recommended&lt;/a&gt; but I've done this multiple times on my previous car without any difficulties.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this is probably car-specific so let me know if you need pictures of what exactly I tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6759" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T20:20:13.697" Title="AC Recharge- What did I do wrong?" Tags="|ac|vw|golf|diy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T20:32:46.530" Score="1" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual-transmission 2008 Ford Fusion SE. It's a great car but I have been having some problems with it recently. Firstly, the throttle does not seem to close when I let off the gas pedal. If I take my foot off the gas pedal without taking the car out of gear, The engine RPM does not decrease at all and the car will carry along at its current speed. Putting the car in neutral makes the RPM increase until I come to a complete stop, where the engine finally begins to run at its idling RPM. How should I go about diagnosing this problem? I just got it out of the shop, so the mechanic obviously overlooked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6761" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T04:38:19.803" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T02:19:56.867" Title="2008 Ford Fusion throttle sticking?" Tags="|ford|rpm|throttle|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:12:44.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem with my bike &#xA;took it to the local mechanic &#xA;Turns out the break pads had worn out a lot and needed replacement and the brake piston seal had been overextended so the seal was damaged too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6762" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:12:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11904" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:14:32.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pads and rotors should be considered a consumerable item. Forget about re-grinding the rotors. If you are on to your second set of pads on your rotors, drag your thumb nail across their surface. If your nail can feel any grooving or catching, change the rotors and the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:14:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11911" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:21:36.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When ever you have more then one oil leak on an engine, especially at higher mileages, check the PCV for good operation. A poor PCV valve or hoses will allow crankcase pressure to cause oil leaks. Although you can expect really good mileages from modern oil seals, any seal on any engine can start to fail and it would not really be possible to give a definite life for any particular seal. Needless to say, most rear crank seals last the lifetime of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:21:36.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11915" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:31:27.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can disconnect the handbrake cable at its brake disc end. If the sprung lever now snaps fully back to its stop, then you have a faulty hanbrake cable. If the lever does not spring back, spraying it with a WD40 type of spray and work the lever through its full movement until it frees off. If it refuses to free off, an after-market rebuilt unit would be the cheapest option. Bear in mind though, even with the lever freed off the handbrake cable will need to checked connected up - they can fail internally and partially seize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:31:27.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11916" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:37:09.447" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fault for me would be your wasting your money on a Re-Charge kit. A service quality AirCon service machine would not only check pressures and moisture content, but also find any vacuum leaks. The machine would also be able to check high and pressures during actual operation of the AirCon, and replenish any gas or oil with the exact correct amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:37:09.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11917" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:40:21.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like something is amiss with the accelerator position switch tracks. Take it back to the shop and inform them of the problem, giving them a chance to put things right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:40:21.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11916" CreationDate="2014-08-19T22:52:00.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure was equalized throughout the system. Static pressure (without the system running) at around 80deg F should be around 90psi. I found this information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/257&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On a properly working system, high-side pressure will be about twice the ambient temperature, plus 50 PSI. For instance, on a 90-degree Fahrenheit day, twice 90 is 180, plus 50 equals 230 PSI. This is not precise but close enough for the purposes of this article. Both pressures reading within these ranges means the system should produce a vent temperature in the mid, to low forties, with the engine idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They suggest using a dual gauge manifold, showing both the low and high side. Unlike my &lt;em&gt;esteemed&lt;/em&gt; colleague, I believe checking and recharging your system is something which can be done at home. You do, however, need to be careful while doing such, as if you blow the system by overcharging, you will be in for some major repair bills. Also, over charging the system (if it doesn't blow it) can also cause the A/C core inside the car to freeze the condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T01:33:52.467" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T01:33:52.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11911" CreationDate="2014-08-20T00:57:11.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank seals generally don't fail catastrophically - they fail rather gradually, leaking more &amp;amp; more over time. You can get by with a leaky crank seal for a long time before it really MUST be replaced; you just have to keep an eye on the oil level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T00:57:11.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T01:04:34.400" Score="1" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 1994 honda civic ex has a problem starting intermittently. especially when its hot outside.  if it has been sitting still for awhile then it will crank right up but if i drive to the store when it's hot outside i know i need to wait at least 30 to 45 minutes before i can get it started. i know its not the battery or the starter, it's also not the fuel injectors. do you have any suggestions?  i just replaced spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6763" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T23:05:32.490" Title="1994 honda civic, intermittent cranking, esp on hot days" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2014-08-20T02:12:24.573" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be in gear 2 ,, 2 is for the streets and when u hit 38mph u switch it to d3 d3 is for the highway a lot of people don't know I ready this in the Manuel once I did it to my car it ran great no jerkin while goin into second gear 1 is for driving in mud 2 is for streets and d3 is for highway and d 4 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6764" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T02:12:24.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2014-08-20T04:18:36.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1980 Camaro with v-6 burning oil on one cylinder I replaced the standard plugs with single platinum at the time.  Went from changing plugs every 6000 miles and the oil burner every 2000 miles to about 25000 miles and the oil burning cylinder every 6000.  The plug would be totally caked before any idle degradation or miss.  Made it into a street/strip car with an old school 396 of about 450 hp, ran 11.70s @ 115 mph.  Switch to double platinum with no noticeable loss of performance, improved idle quality with large cam and slight rich carburetor.  Improved consistency as the plug life is increased on the hot rod with no degradation over much longer period.  Less changes and waiting for the copper plug to slow means much more chance you will run quicker times on those good weather days.  Switched from single platinum to double on my 02 Mustang GT, no real reason, but it is hard to argue with a 13.37 @ 104 mph on a mostly stock GT.  Oh yea, gears help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6766" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T04:18:36.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11097" CreationDate="2014-08-20T05:53:31.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My turbo car always suffered from spark knock / retarded timing &amp;amp; boost in the summer heat. Once I added a conservative water injection system (two nozzles, one pre intercooler and one in the throttle body elbow) it completely eliminated the spark knock in all rpm &amp;amp; load conditions. I was able to run full boost (the max my turbo could handle) even in 90+ degtee summertime weather. &quot;Free&quot; power and never a problem with it. It was no harder to install than most other tuner kits like nitrous. A couple nozzles, nylon tubing, water source, wot switch or boost pressure activation, connect to battery, done. I am obviously a big fan of water injection, it absolutely makes a difference and is relatively safe and cheap compared to just dumping more fuel or spraying nitrous. :) On my upgraded turbo I hated when the computer lowered the boost when the intake air was hot. Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T05:53:31.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T07:11:38.997" Score="1" ViewCount="986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to change the engine of my RENAULT CLIO II 1.9D. This engine was broken when the stone hit the bottom of the engine (carter) then the engine stopped to work because there was any oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wish to change this engine to another one of another type, say TOYOTA for example. I would like to know if this could go well if I make this change( Renault diesel  bya Toyota essence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6768" LastEditorUserId="6237" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T22:07:11.960" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T22:07:11.960" Title="I want to replace my renault clio engine F8Q by another one of toyota" Tags="|engine|toyota|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11946" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:04:17.723" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Vehicle is a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer (CB1A) with a 4G13 Engine and I'm having some A/C Issues when the weather is sunny hot. I already replace with a new ones like Mitsubishi-Air A/C Compressor, Receiver Drier, Evaporator and the Expansion Valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My A/C Works great on night and/or in not so hot weather but on a Hot Tropical Sunny Weather the Idle Drops Slowly and my cars shakes like forever. Does it has to do with the Compressor? the Thermostat Sensors? or the evaporator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks In Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6770" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:45:11.943" Title="A/C Idle Issue on very hot weather" Tags="|ac|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:54:24.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a particular reason for choosing to fit a particular engine, I'd recommend a like-for-like replacement, i.e. another Clio engine. This will also save a lot of paperwork (depending on where you are - insurance companies, licensing authorities etc often need to be notified, and I believe that some countries won't allow it at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T08:54:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11937" CreationDate="2014-08-20T09:18:39.670" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting a motor the emf from the battery creates spark (ignition system), but it also moves the engine's pistons (starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question(s):&#xA;1. Which requires more power - the ignition system, or the starter? &#xA;2. If my battery is low (say, 11V) which is more likely to NOT work properly? Is there a general rule, or does it strongly depend on the engine?&#xA;3. Is there an easy way of checking if a given system is getting enough power (e.g. measuring voltages on the fuses)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T17:12:30.520" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T17:12:30.520" Title="How is the power from the battery distributed when starting a motorcycle?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|ignition|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:44:58.683" Score="5" ViewCount="2631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Mercury Sable (24V DOHC V6) that has been having problems with its vacuum system. I live in Florida where the average temperature lately has been in the 80s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been experiencing a very rough idle for roughly a month now that occasionally would stall the car. The car would start right back up with no issues and keeping my foot on the gas would stop the rough idle (Minimum ~1500 rpm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since replaced the main PCV Valve elbow hose (not the valve itself, that's my next step) because it was collapsed. After doing that, my rough idle was almost gone outside of a jumping idle speed (between 600-1200 rpm) that would occasionally stall the car (easily started back up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I replaced my Idle Air Control valve which stopped the rough idle (save the occasional &lt;em&gt;putt putt&lt;/em&gt;) but now my car would constantly run at a high idle (1600 rpm) and occasionally rebound back to normal idles which would sometimes cause the car to stall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago the problems reached an all time high when my car dumped out all of its transmission fluid. I refilled the fluid (No leaks in two days???) and have since then only had the higher than normal rpm. I'm planning on replacing my transmission filter and gasket tonight since I suspect that is where the leak came from and I need it anyways per normal maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas for me to try and fix next? My current plan is to do my transmission service and then swap out the actual PCV valve. I also have an issue where my vacuum operated AC switch (Controls which vents the air blows from) won't work and so my A/C will only blow from the defroster grid. This has been going on for years however and I don't think it is related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to be descriptive, please let me know if I've forgotten anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T22:48:31.923" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T22:48:31.923" Title="2001 Mercury Sable -- Rough Idle/High RPM and Transmission Leaks" Tags="|automatic-transmission|rough-idle|leak|mercury|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:57:29.157" Score="1" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a owner of a Volkswagen Golf MK6 1.6 TDI DSG (105HP), and i am a beginner in mechanics, but in computers i am an expert. I stumbled upon those days on some websites that claim to bring you additional 30-40 HP with some ECU tuning techniques (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superchips.co.uk/roadtest/Superchips%20Golf%201.6%20TDI.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.superchips.co.uk/roadtest/Superchips%20Golf%201.6%20TDI.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;), and i am wondering :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can i buy a ECU tunning software from somewhere, some website and install it by myself at home with my laptop connected to the car trough the &lt;code&gt;VAG-COM cable&lt;/code&gt; ? The reason for this is because i don't have SUPERCHIPS store in my country.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second question is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can i connect my car to a device such as a SMARTPHONE that would stay always online and sending me data about LATITUDE and LONGITUDE to my server from 5 to 5 seconds? The part with the SMARTPHONE it is easy to do, especially when programming in &lt;code&gt;Android&lt;/code&gt; platform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6773" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T12:50:58.967" Title="Tunning the ECU of a Volkswagen Golf MK6 1.6 TDI DSG" Tags="|engine|electrical|maintenance|automatic-transmission|golf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2014-08-20T14:21:53.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your motorcycle uses an electric starter (as opposed to a kick starter), the starter will draw far &amp;amp; away more current than the ignition system - like perhaps fifty times as much. A bike with only a kick starter only needs a tiny battery, while one with only an electric starter requires a big one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When battery capacity is too low, generally both the starting system and the ignition suffer... and GENERALLY they both fail at about the same level of low capacity - as long as the starter is capable of cranking the engine, typically the ignition system is also capable of delivering a spark sufficient to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One very quick check, if you think your battery capacity is dropping off, is to hang a meter ON THE BATTERY POSTS (not the fuses), then try to start the bike. If, while cranking, the battery voltage drops below about 75% of nominal (9V for a nominal 12V battery), then the battery's capacity is too low and it requires charging or replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T14:21:53.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T14:48:39.607" Score="2" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mazda 626 was leaking coolant. I replaced the radiator for there is clearly a hole on it. It worked fine for about a month. Then I see some leakage again. And this time it is around the right side of the engine. The only thing I can think of is the water pump because the place is pretty far from the radiator and all the hoses look ok. I did some google and it looks like that replacing the water pump is a pretty big job. All replaced the timing-belt as well. My timing-belt was replaced 2 years ago. Do I have to replace it? Why involve the timing belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6414" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:02:39.653" Title="1996 mazda 626 leaking coolant" Tags="|mazda|coolant|cooling-system|water-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11845" CreationDate="2014-08-20T15:01:16.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a car charger for your vehicle it is possible to buy a female cigarette lighter socket and wire it into an unused accessory fuse in your fuse box. From here, you can run the cable (assuming it is a longer cable) along the driver/passenger side pillars and finally along the roof trim and down to your phone from there. If it is lower on the windshield, then obviously run it along the back of the dashboard. The wire should be very easy to hide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important parts here are going to be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dropping 12V down to 5V (which is what the car charger will do for you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fusing the connection on a CLEAN LINE. Adding a load on any factory circuit can cause bad things to happen. The fuse is self explanatory. Safety first!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that the fuse that you tie into is an accessory power source meaning that it shuts off with the car. Otherwise the phone charger will have a parasitic drain on your car's battery. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this goes without saying also, but just in case, please please please make sure to keep your positives and negatives separate and tape the car charger/cigarette lighter and use proper connection methods when connecting wires (butt connectors / solder). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T15:01:16.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T15:17:14.930" Score="2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old car battery (Exide Express) is totally dead.   Now I am buying a new battery. I want to know which battery is the best battery for my car (diesel 2002 model). My car model is a Hyundai Accent diesel 2002 heater engine. I already Googled battery types. There are Exide Max, Exide Mattrix , and mine was an Exide Express. Can you please tell me the difference from this battery? My car self start drains more battery when self start. Please suggest a more powerful Exide battery which will work for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:41:39.987" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:41:39.987" Title="Accent diesel car battery type" Tags="|battery|fuel-system|diesel|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T15:37:24.707" Score="4" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Fiat 500, 2008, 1.2 Pop, 51Kw has had its front left side somewhat crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body has been fixed for the most part, but the electrician/mechanic tells us he cannot turn on the vehicle in order to test and further calibrate it without installing a new &quot;front left airbag sensor&quot;. The car supposedly refuses to turn on unless that part is whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were also told that the car refuses to turn on unless it detects all airbags as present, and since three airbags deployed in the crash (driver, driver knee, passenger). He said he put some resistors in place as a hack, so the car thinks the airbags are there (our priority right now is to make the car driveable, we'll add new airbags later as we obtain them, they're really hard to find in Croatia). Allegedly, this also required the disabling of the belt tighteners via the same hack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked online, but I cannot find any information as to neither the price nor the appearance of this sensor. Some sources say it's over $600, some $100. Different terms are being thrown around like ECU, Module sensor, airbag sensor, and none lead to anything productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate it if someone could assist me in telling me what requirements I can still expect before my car is &quot;fixable&quot;, and which part it is that I actually need. I looked at some airbag kits, and those contain all three airbags that deployed, plus ECU, plus belt tighteners so this seems like a good deal in most cases, but I have no idea if that also contains the needed sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6774" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T02:28:45.947" Title="Fiat 500 Airbag Sensor" Tags="|electrical|sensor|supplemental-restraint-system|fiat|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11250" CreationDate="2014-08-20T16:52:59.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the the vacuum lines (all but one) and it does it very minimally in the mornings. I haven't replaced the one yet because it is protected by a plastic sleeve so it looks like it'll be a pain in the rear to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not 100% fixed yet, but 90% of the issues have gone away by changing the vacuum lines which only costed about $7.50 for all the ones I've changed so far. (expecting another 3-5 to change the protected one since it's like 5').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I forgot to mention a few months ago, we changed the master-cylinder and the problems cleared up 100% (which is odd because it was fairly new). Since then we've had to replace it a second time, truck just wouldn't start one morning. We think it's moisture getting in, but we're not 100% certain. But that's another question/issue all on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T01:25:57.547" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T01:25:57.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11940" CreationDate="2014-08-20T17:30:46.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exide&lt;/em&gt; is simply a battery manufacturer. The &lt;em&gt;Max&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Matrix&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Express&lt;/em&gt; are just marketing names for some of their battery lines. The best battery to get is one that fits your car, and will last an appropriate length of time for the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is not being properly recharged, it's also possible that your alternator is bad, or is going bad. Both the battery and alternator will wear out over time. Batteries typically last a few years, depending on a few factors. If you want a battery that will last longer, spend more and get an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your vehicle to the local parts store, have both the alternator and battery tested, and replace what needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:30:46.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11926" CreationDate="2014-08-20T19:20:37.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will most likely be on the fuel side of things. One item to check would be the ECT (engine cooling temperature sensor). Possibly when you start the engine from cold, the ECT is giving a plausible cold engine temperature. After driving  and with the engine now hot, if the ECT is still giving a 'cold temp' reading, the engines ECU will supply a very rich mixture and choke off the engine, causing non-starting. After a while your engine cools down somewhat and the ECT sends a signal to the ECU which trims the mixture weak enough to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:20:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11932" CreationDate="2014-08-20T19:45:11.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The load put on your engine will come from the AirCon compressor, but that pressure is controlled by the AirCon pressure sensors. A service quality AirCon machine at your local garage will determine the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:45:11.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11935" CreationDate="2014-08-20T19:50:14.347" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Book your car into a repair shop for a smoke test on your intake and exhaust systems. This will reveal any vacuum leaks. Also, do not under estimate the value of a scan on your engines systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:50:14.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2014-08-20T20:00:53.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the claims made by a lot of 'tuning' firms are just too much hype. They rely on taking the EGR valve out of circuit, which whilst giving the extra horesepower the vehicle usually gives out excessive nitrides of oxides(NOX). This NOX output is a known killer. Here in the UK somewhere in the region of 5000 people die from or have attributable causes of death from diesel/NOX pollution. You can connect your Android/smartphone to the vehicles ECU with an Elm 327 interface using Bluetooth or WiFi. You need to do your programme using the coding protocols of your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T20:00:53.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11938" CreationDate="2014-08-20T20:12:05.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the position you suggest it does point to the water pump leaking. The timing belt is replaced with the water pump, as is the water pump is replaced with the timing belt as a matter of good practice, because the two parts are together on the front of the engine. This avoids any unnecessary labour costs if the one or other of the components fails, or arrives at replacement time. The book time for a 2 liter 626 timing belt trime is around 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T20:12:05.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2014-08-20T21:49:36.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For tuning purposes, you have several different options (and probably more):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bullydog.com/product.php?ID=114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bully dog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.celtictuning.co.uk/manufacturer-tuning-overview/vw-tdi-turbo-diesel-tuning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Celtic Tuning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.malonetuning.com/ve-tdi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malone Tuning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=tuning%20software%20for%20vw%20tdi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;And many more&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again, there are plenty of products on the market which will allow you to do what you want to do with the OBD2 system, at least I believe it does considering your real lack of description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastrack.com/obd.html?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=%2B+obd2%2B+gps&amp;amp;utm_campaign=OBD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mobile Asset Solutions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FKZYE70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastrack.com/obd.html?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_term=%2B+obd2%2B+gps&amp;amp;utm_campaign=OBD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's up to you to decide how/what you want to utilize and how you'd want to tune your vehicle, but there are a huge amount of options out there for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T21:49:36.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2014-08-21T01:00:29.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to your second question, you can connect to your car with the Wireless Ross-Tech VCDS volkswagen diagnostic system. It is by far the best VW diagnostic tool. The wireless version supports iOS and Android, but isn't exactly cheap. However if you plan on working on your car it's a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-mobile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-mobile/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VWs are very specific vehicles. Help grow the stack exchange community and start the Volkswagen.stackexchange at &lt;a href=&quot;http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/75685/volkswage&quot;&gt;http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/75685/volkswage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6776" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T01:00:29.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T01:10:02.443" Score="1" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Pontiac Grand Am which has done 160,000 km.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Recently, I found oil in my coolant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this damage my car? What could be the reason behind this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6777" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T07:48:27.757" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T22:30:43.307" Title="Oil in coolant, Pontiac Grand Am 99" Tags="|engine|coolant|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2014-08-21T01:51:02.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the car is not garbage. But it does need a head gasket replaced, or possibly has a cracked head. In worst case, the engine block is damaged, and the engine will need replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairing the problem (hopefully only the gasket) and flushing and re-filling the coolant and oil should be all that's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T01:51:02.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11957" CreationDate="2014-08-21T05:13:12.803" Score="4" ViewCount="47372" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a normal battery and maintenance free battery. Is a maintenance free battery really free of maintenance or just it requires less no of charge cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 2wheeler automatic (Honda Activa 2007 model) which is currently having an Exide battery. Its charge goes down after almost every 1 month. For which I need to bring it in the service centre to get it charged.(Although when the fuel meter is above the red marking then it starts normally on the battery and if the fuel is less then it needs a compulsory kick start).Due to low charge in the battery the indicators stop working sometimes, horn goes week and sometimes even the headlights dim down. The problem of starting get's worse if there is some humidity in the climate or just some rainfall.(It takes 2-3 mins to start)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to go in for a maintenance free battery of the same company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exidereachout.com/products/exide-xpack-vrla.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exide&lt;/a&gt; as it might not provide that much trouble of monthly charging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6621" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T08:39:02.597" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:39:02.597" Title="What is the difference between a normal battery and a maintenance free battery in a 2 wheeler segment" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|starting|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11956" CreationDate="2014-08-21T05:49:26.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Maintenance Free&quot; doesn't have anything to do with charging rate or charging frequency. &quot;Maintenance Free&quot; means that the manufacturer didn't provide any means of maintaining the water/acid level in the battery, which means that if a battery boils dry you can only replace it instead of refilling it yourself with water or acid, whichever is appropriate (probably water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Activa loses enough battery charge to require charging from an external source, then one of the following is true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. You don't ride it for great enough distance, on average&#xA;b. Your charging system (in the bike) is failing or has failed&#xA;c. The battery is just getting too old and should be replaced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is a 2007 and it still has the original battery in it, then that battery is really getting pretty old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T05:49:26.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2014-08-21T09:32:21.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For logging purposes, the best smartphone app by far is Torque Pro for android.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know anything about cars, DON'T mess around with fuel/ignition maps. You &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; going to push things too far and end up melting pistons and/or damaging your turbo. I &lt;em&gt;guarantee&lt;/em&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T09:32:21.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T12:52:54.623" Score="1" ViewCount="4102" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is good but the car is like there's no battery at all. No lights no nothing. Won't start, can't jump it. Got the car home on my trailer and later that night my son came home and said the lights are on. Sure enough the parking lights are on. Get inside the car put the key in the ignition and every thing goes black like before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T13:57:44.087" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T13:31:26.853" Title="2006 Kia Spectra5 Battery/electrical issue" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11960" CreationDate="2014-08-21T13:23:20.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things to check here given the information that you provided, but here are some things that I would do first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check battery voltage with a multimeter. While the car is off, it should be around 12.5-12.7 with the car off. If it is lower, it may be enough to power some lights, but not kick on the starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your main fuses/relays. Perhaps the main alternator fuse is blown. Some cars use what is called a 'fusible link' on the alternator which is a thin wire that will burn out before damage is done to the components. Check your manual to see what is used and where it is located. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your battery cables. If they're loose, the car's starting can be unpredictable (and dangerous due to sparks!). This may have even triggered the vehicle's antitheft system which would keep you from starting up, but I don't think it would kill everything in the car, so this isn't my first bet. If this is, however, the case, then you'll need to bring it to the stealership. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is the issue since the car cannot be jumped, but your alternator itself may be in bad shape as well. If you can get it to a shop, they can run a load test on the battery system and see if your alternator/battery is any good. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T13:23:20.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11964" CreationDate="2014-08-21T15:21:41.747" Score="5" ViewCount="8198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an used Toyota Yaris 2008 hatchback and I'm preparing to change oil for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a jack supplied with the car (along the with spare tire). However, the manual seems to suggest that I should use a floor jack to jack up my car instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a legal thing where they just recommend the best thing possible, or is it an advice I should follow? If indeed it's good advice, then how could I jack up my car to change tire on the highway when only the supplied jack is available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6521" LastEditorUserId="6565" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T19:18:43.193" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:50:16.473" Title="Manual says &quot;Do not use the jack supplied with your vehicle&quot; -- why is it?" Tags="|toyota|oil-change|jack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:00:20.873" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what it specifically says, but it is indeed not safe to be under a car that is supported only by a jack, hydraulic or mechanical.  To be safe, get a pair of jack stands, and use whatever jack you want to raise the car high enough to put the stands in place, then lower it so vehicle is resting on the stands.  The jack that comes with the car might not lift the car high enough to get the stands in place though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3774" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T16:00:20.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11967" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:12:33.393" Score="2" ViewCount="50673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old motorcycle with chromed parts. Some of them look brand new, but others have rust on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is WD-40 good for preventing corrosion on chrome parts?&#xA;Can it also be applied after removing rust?&#xA;Or are there better ways/products?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T10:16:48.820" Title="How do I protect chrome before there is any rust, and right after I have removed rust off of it?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:18:37.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't actually need to jack that car up to change oil. You can reach the oil filter easily from the front and you can reach the drain plug nearly as easily - also from the front - while the car rests on its wheels on the ground. Unless your arms are about ten times thicker than mine are, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, you can reach the filter from the TOP, down past the intake. It's a little tough to get hold of it there, though, even with a socket-type filter wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T16:18:37.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:22:33.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One time-honored method is to rub the chromed parts vigorously with alumin(i)um foil. That results in the transfer of alumin(i)um ions to the steel surface, further protecting the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is a lousy, horrible corrosion prevention agent. If you can get it to last for longer than about 24 hours, you're doing well. It does do some jobs very very well... but it's nearly worthless for preventing corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind (or if you enjoy) handling your bike every couple-or-few months, and if you're not talking about exhaust parts, paste wax does a very nice job of corrosion prevention...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T16:22:33.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11969" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:29:36.457" Score="4" ViewCount="16932" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle (Suzuki GN250) has many chromed parts, some of which are spotted with rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several videos on youtube about ways of removing rust (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watchv=JkHyARsjNEg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watchv=JkHyARsjNEg&lt;/a&gt;), most of which suggest using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminium foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel wool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with or without the aid of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diet Pepsi / Cola&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toothpaste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal polish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which method is the best, i.e. doesn't damage the chrome, and gives a long-lasting effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T10:34:31.670" Title="How to remove rust from chromed parts?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|rust|corrosion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11968" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:56:15.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For rust removal... my personal favorite technique involves a lot of distilled white vinegar and a green &quot;scrunge&quot; (like a 3M scrubbing pad) or a pad of steel wool. By &quot;a lot&quot; of vinegar, I mean never allow the surface to get dry - always keep it wet with vinegar or it'll &quot;flash rust&quot; while you work. This generally involves working only a fairly small area (one or two square feet) at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're totally finished with an area, wipe it totally dry, beginning with paper towels and ending with toilet tissue - get &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the rust-vinegar slurry off the surface; your last wipe should come up with a completely clean wad of toilet tissue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That method also works very well for such things as cast-iron table saw tops. It's how I get rid of the rust on my table saws in Vermont, where rust grows faster than weeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bronze wool works as well as - and possibly better than - steel wool. Some steel wool is much harder (has a higher carbon content than) other steel wool, and may possibly scratch chrome. Bronze wool, like &quot;scrunges&quot;, isn't hard enough to scratch the chrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="6578" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T12:05:46.613" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:05:46.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:10:15.920" Score="0" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car is losing power steering fluid very slowly. Months go by before it needs to be topped of again. No apparent leak, no noise, no foam in fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6786" LastEditorUserId="6786" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T20:12:35.567" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T18:10:57.853" Title="Losing power steering fluid 2011 Honda Accord 4cyl" Tags="|honda|accord|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11916" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:03:56.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have been charging on the low side not the high side. But it's actually good that you weren't able to top off the system. You should never use that stuff in any car AC system and it's outlawed in the states. This is a &lt;strong&gt;flammable&lt;/strong&gt; refrigerant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_msds_sm.html&quot;&gt;From the SDS (Saftey Data Sheet)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;AUTO – IGNITION TEMPERATURE: 1585 F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FLASHPOINT: -34 C &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LOWER FLAMMABLE LIMIT (LEL): 1.9%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;UPPER FLAMMABLE LIMIT (UEL): 8.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_chargeinstall.html&quot;&gt;From their directions:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although RED TEK® 12a is compatible with most existing refrigerants&#xA;  and oils, &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT MIX REFRIGERANTS&lt;/strong&gt;. Mixing refrigerants is illegal in&#xA;  Canada and the US and will not offer the maximum performance available&#xA;  from RED TEK® 12a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;RED TEK® 12a Refrigerant is installed through the &lt;strong&gt;LOW SIDE SERVICE&#xA;  PORT AND IS CHARGED AS A LIQUID INTO A &quot;0&quot; ATMOSPHERIC CONDITION. DO&#xA;  NOT INSTALL INTO A SYSTEM WHERE A HARD VACUUM EXISTS. DANGER!! DO NOT&#xA;  INSTALL ON HIGH SIDE SERVICE PORT.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had you have topped off your system, and then taken it to get it repaired somewhere they would need specialized equipment to recover what would now be a blend because you mixed different types of refrigerant. Most shops just won't work on a car with a blend because it takes a machine just for recovering blends and they have to pay to dispose of the old blends because they can't be recycled or reused. So the shops that do have that equipment charge a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; to work on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to DIY AC recharge make sure you get the correct refrigerant (IE the exact kind in your car) and read the directions completely before attempting to do the repair yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T19:14:20.660" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T19:14:20.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11982" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:28:16.383" Score="7" ViewCount="129176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently needed to top-off the coolant on my car, but only used a part of the gallon-sized 100% antifreeze container that it came in - how long is it worth keeping the rest in my garage for future use? does it spoil/turn acidic? it's in a plastic bottle with an air-tight cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note: it is currently un-mixed, would it be better to mix it with water now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6574" LastEditorUserId="6574" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T00:16:28.120" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T18:44:51.583" Title="How long does coolant last in storage?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11970" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:34:37.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a leak there somewhere - there are only two places where power steering fluid can go: where it's supposed to go, and where it's not. &quot;Not&quot; means outside of everything, onto the ground &amp;amp; into the air. There aren't any places where it can leak into any other fluid reservoir in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:34:37.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11941" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:35:50.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK an accident causing an airbag to deploy means that all airbags, igniters, and control module have to be replaced. No alternative, other wise the vehicle is un-insurable, which means you cannot drive it legally on a public road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:35:50.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11953" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:41:01.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One very real cause of 'oil' in the cooling system is that the oil cooler for your transmission is part of the cooling system radiator. A small oil-cooler oil leak into the radiator may very well be your problem. Is your trans fluid going down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:41:01.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11963" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:50:16.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The supplied car jack is for an emergency change of a wheel, pucture?, on firm ground, with the wheel nuts loosened before raising the vehicle, with the handbrake firmly applied. It is not intended for any other use. At no time put any part of yourself, or allow anybody else, under a vehicle raised on this type of jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:50:16.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:53:48.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chrome does not rust, its the steel under the chrome that rusts and flakes off the chrome. In the UK the number one product for chrome is Solvol Autosol. Does what is says on the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:53:48.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11970" CreationDate="2014-08-21T20:57:56.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a very small fluid loss the first thing is too tighten any hose clips or unions. These can allow the fluid to 'sweat' out of the system. Any clips that show any sign of oil around them require critical attention as the hose at the joining may be starting to perish internally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T20:57:56.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11972" CreationDate="2014-08-21T21:08:34.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the word coolant is used in can mean a couple of things. Coolant made up of antifreeze and water out of your household tap, 50-50 solution, would last for around 3 years. Coolant made up of antifreeze and distilled (de-ionised) water, 50-50 solution, should last for around 5 years. Because of the nonsense surrounding 'coolants' always adhere to the instructions on the supply container. If you live in an area of the world subjected to very low temperatures you could look at a coolant change on the outset of winter as a sort of insurance. An antifreeze mixture should only be at a max of 50% as any greater amount of antifreeze will increase the freezing temperature. ie 50% antifreez would be -30C freezing, 60% antifreeze would be -20c. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T21:08:34.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T23:24:40.717" Score="3" ViewCount="18902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a couple weeks ago, I took my 2012 Dodge Avenger to the shop for (among other things) an oil change. However, the car is already alerting me that it needs an oil change barely 1,000 miles later. Normally the car can go for over 5,000 miles before the oil change alert comes up. So, I'm pretty confused as to what exactly is happening here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From different sources, I've heard conflicting information about how modern vehicles generally judge when it's time for an oil change. Some have said it's a simple mileage calculation, which can be reset by certain procedures after the maintenance has been done. Others have claimed there are sensors which actually measure the quality of the oil to more appropriately determine when a change is really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how the alert is being generated, I'm figuring one of a few things is happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The computer alerts to needing an oil change based on a certain elapsed time, mileage, or other constant metric.&lt;/strong&gt; This should simply mean that the mechanic at the shop forgot to reset the counter. I'm really hoping this is all it is, as the alternatives aren't all that great.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The car has sensors which measure physical properties of the oil and alerts to needing an oil change when the oil quality falls below a certain threshold.&lt;/strong&gt; I figure this branches off into one of two possibilities - both of which I'd file under Bad Things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic put bad or contaminated oil into the car. Either the wrong grade of oil was used, some old oil was reused, or whatever oil was used had serious quality issues to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine is having serious problems which is causing the oil to prematurely degrade. I'm really hoping this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, which method is the Avenger using to determine when an oil change is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year/Make/Model/Trim: 2012 Dodge Avenger SXT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engine: 2.4L I4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Transmission: 6 speed automatic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T00:10:17.593" Title="How does the Dodge Avenger know when it's time for an oil change?" Tags="|oil-change|dodge|computer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11972" CreationDate="2014-08-22T00:41:06.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolant should not expire any time soon. If it is not in an automobile being used, it is not degrading. With the cap on it, there is nothing contaminating it. From what I was just reading, there is no practical expiration if kept in the original container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T00:41:06.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11980" CreationDate="2014-08-22T01:08:25.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two different types of oil life indicators, as discussed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/car-part-longevity/oil-life-indicator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, there is the Algorithm-based one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close to requiring replacement or needs replacing immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other type is the the direct measurement type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct measurement oil life indicators measure the condition of the oil -- the opposite approach to the system described above. This method uses sensors to sample the oil and determine its remaining life based on any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conductivity -- how easily electric current passes through the oil (typically, the lower the electrical resistance, the more contaminants are in the oil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical properties -- piezoelectric sensors can tell how thick the oil is by the force feedback it gives when sloshing around&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soot concentration -- dirty oil's days are definitely numbered&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presence of water -- water is an impurity in oil, since it hampers the oil's effectiveness and can corrode metal surfaces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found sources which say the way Chrysler detects for oil change is the same way as GM does it, which is the first method, starting in 2012, so would assume it was using the second method up to that point (which may be a bad assumption). I don't know what to tell you as to why it might have popped early, but it may be due to some type of contaminant, at least that seems most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T01:08:25.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T01:44:55.963" Score="2" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out why my engine temp is always very low. I do know for a fact that my gauges work. My car is a 4-afe toyota with a stock radiator and a modified fan. I also installed 2 additional fans which makes my fans equal to 3. I did it because during the summer months(I live in a tropical country.) I always drive in the city which is why I haven't noticed it until recently. I drove 300km trip with mostly freeways, and I noticed that my temp gauge is very low, which is why I could'nt push my transmission(I'm using an automatic with overdrive) to overdrive. I tried switching off all of my fans(I had a switch built so I could control which fans would run) but it would still go very low. What can I do to raise the temp to the optimal level without me removing the 2 additional fans? I can't push past 90kph because my transmission does not allow me(too cold temp for the overdrive to engage). I'm already on full load and I am revving hard just so I could increase my temp to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really need the additional fans because when I drive in the city during summer, my temp goes very high, almost near overheating which is why I need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional details for my car:&#xA;95 Corolla&#xA;A245e transmission&#xA;My car is running on water as the coolant. I had the car serviced a couple of weeks ago,before the trip and they said everything was fine. I also had my radiator cleaned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Temperatures in our country goes as high as 50 degrees Celsius especially during the afternoon in summer. However when I used my car that day it was not really hot, plus it was rained a bit when I was on the freeway. I have the standard temp gauge but I have no indication how cold/hot my temp(exact degrees) was. I did have a transmission replacement almost a year ago due to the mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastEditorUserId="3988" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T02:22:23.267" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T18:48:16.190" Title="engine has too much cooling especially when driving hard" Tags="|toyota|cooling-system|corolla|fan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T01:49:27.377" Score="2" ViewCount="24360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Jetta that refuses to start every now and then. When I turn the key it makes clicking noise like battery is dead. I had the battery, starter and alternator checked. All good. The car starts back up usually after 30 min to an hour. Today I pushed gas pedal while trying to crank it and it eventually caught. There are no check lights. Car runs fine when starts. I have no idea what issue could be because it starts up most times. Please give me advice. Thanks so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6789" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T20:22:35.870" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T14:42:49.493" Title="Starting Issues with Good Battery, Starter, and Alternator" Tags="|starting|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2014-08-22T01:57:45.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get rid of the extra fans. If you're having to run fans constantly to keep the engine at the right temperature in the city, then all you're doing is masking another issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably have several other issues. The engine temperature and the transmission going being able to shift into overdrive should be independent. It seems like you are conflating two separate problems to be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the actual cooling issues and fix them. Find the actual issue with the transmission, and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have water in the system, that is a problem. It will boil and if you're using tap water, it will cause internal corrosion. The boiling and corrosion can cause damage and overheating. You should flush the cooling system and refill with the manufacturer-required coolant, typically a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. If corrosion did occur, it my have caused the thermostat to stick open. That could cause problems as it will prevent proper pressurization of the system, and allow coolant to flow freely when it shouldn't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastEditorUserId="6599" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T02:33:47.577" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T02:33:47.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2014-08-22T03:00:10.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the thermostat for sure, and while you're at it, replace the straight water with 50/50 antifreeze/coolant mix. Use the aftermarket fans ONLY during stop &amp;amp; go traffic in the city; on the open road they serve no purpose at all (ordinary wind from highway speed cools the radiator sufficiently in almost all cases). There's no need to remove the fans, just switch them off at any speeds above about 50kph - at that speed they're nothing but little windmills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T03:00:10.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2014-08-22T08:10:30.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of having 3 fans for city driving, I suggest rather installing a cooler-running thermostat and removing the two aftermarket fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this will achieve is that in stop-go traffic, your one radiator fan will kick in sooner, keeping your engine at optimum temperature while still allowing the transmission to warm up enough to allow engaging overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a thermostat that opens 10 degrees celsius sooner, or at minimum 5 degrees. And as mr. TDHofstetter suggests, remove some water and add more anti-freeze. It will increase the boiling point of your coolant, making it more efficient at high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T08:10:30.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2014-08-22T09:25:48.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you have removed rust, use vaseline (yep it's weird but it works :p) every now and then to protect the chrome parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you notice the parts starting to get opaque use light abrasive paste on a cloth to make the chrome parts shining again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T09:25:48.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11980" CreationDate="2014-08-22T13:41:57.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and pulled out the manual for the car last night. It said something to the effect of the measurement being usage-based (i.e.: things like odometer/number of engine revolutions/etc, which do not &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; reflect the quality of the oil, are used instead of an actual testing of the oil itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did not specifically say the odometer was used, but it did state that mileage between changes may vary based on usage. It also includes instructions for resetting the counter(s) for the oil change metrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the key to the key-on, engine-off position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully press and release the gas pedal three times within ten seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the key off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the car and check the system status to verify reset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update this with direct quotes from the manual later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T13:41:57.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T16:55:48.200" Score="2" ViewCount="2343" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the axle nut on a 2001 Honda Shadow are different sizes on either side of the bike.  What size are these so I may get the correct wrench to work with them.  I have tried other sources and I couldn't find an answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6799" LastEditorUserId="6799" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T15:11:05.223" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T09:12:57.250" Title="Axle nut sizes on a 2001 Honda Shadow" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|axle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21209" CreationDate="2014-08-22T17:21:15.780" Score="4" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased replacement mirrors for my '99 Dodge Ram 1500.  When I put the door back together and tested, I found that when I tried to move the mirror leftwards or upwards, the mirror on the driver side would not move.  I then tried to move the right hand side, which moved properly for a minute but then also exhibited no left/up movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I was thinking that perhaps these new mirrors are faulty, but then I moved the control stick back to left-side operation and tried to move the mirror to the left.  To my dismay, the RIGHT-side mirror moved left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to believe that the mirror control unit is faulty, not the mirrors themselves, since my assumption would be that the left-right twist control on the control unit just alternates which set of wires to send the control signals.  Can anyone confirm this and possibly give me the part number for the replacement mirror control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T18:17:13.077" Title="1999 Dodge Ram - New Mirrors, Weird Behavior" Tags="|dodge|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2014-08-22T18:48:16.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the suggestion to fix the underlying cooling problem.  Your vehicle should be able to handle tropical temperatures, even in slow traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree with running antifreeze for the anti-corrosion and anti-boil properties.  However, until you get the base problem figured out, you could continue to run plain water, as you may be having to do some work which would involve draining the cooling system.  It will be cheaper (and better for the environment) if you are only draining water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6800" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T18:48:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12765" CreationDate="2014-08-22T19:26:24.287" Score="3" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 V-Strom DL1000 motorcycle, whose recharge system is not recharging a new battery. I also have a multi-meter. Could someone share how I can check the recharge system without removing the components from the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research online I've found some videos on how to check the rectifier and stator but the video mentions (but does not show) how such checks can be done without removing the equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information that I need would include a description of how the checks might be done and a pointer to any other checks that I can make to analyze why the bike is not recharging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:52:13.860" Title="Motorcycle Recharge System Checks?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11985" CreationDate="2014-08-22T20:21:11.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem probably resides in a connection somewhere in your starting system. I would start by disconnecting at the battery, making sure all connections are clean, then re-securing them so they are good and tight. Move your way back on the cables to ensure all other connections are good in the same manner. While you are moving down the cables, ensure there aren't any &quot;fat&quot; spots. This is a sign of corrosion inside the cable and can cause starting/charging issues. Also, ensure your grounds are good and solid. Since you stated the battery, starter, and alternator are good, the wiring is the only thing left which might be causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Also, it is never good to press the gas pedal on a fuel injected car when trying to start it. First of all, it will do you no good. When cars were carbureted, you would press the pedal to get some gas into the intake via the accelerator pump. It doesn't work that way with fuel injected cars. Secondly, most manufacturers use the throttle when starting to do a throttle position reset. If you are tromping on the pedal, it might cause this to reset, which will cause you even more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T20:21:11.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11980" CreationDate="2014-08-23T07:56:26.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil indicator is based on an algorithm, monitor(a piece of software). The ECU clock has ticks. When the engine has been operated to a number of ticks(time) the oil light is illuminated. The number of ticks is added to by the average oil temperature and the number of combustion events. Combustion events expose a small amount of oil to degradation by acids, unburnt fuel and other by-products which leak past the engines piston rings. Once the prescribed number of ticks has been arrived at the oil light comes on. The system is a very good indicator of oil condition, but of cause is not of absolute precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T07:56:26.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11985" CreationDate="2014-08-23T08:20:54.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicles problems lies with the starting circuit. Battery, starter motor and solonoid, cables, power and earth points. A test on the system which is gaining prominance is with a battery/starting testing tool called here in the UK by the name of Midtronics. A fracture internally of the battery can be diagnosed. Some of the cables can be spliced internally in their loom and these will require special attention for continuity. Your problem will mean a series of tests and may be best carried out by an auto-electrician.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T08:20:54.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2014-08-23T08:28:59.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you replaced complete mirror assemblies or just the mechanisms with the twin motors which the mirror glass clips into? On a lot of vehicles the mechanisms are identical whilst the shape of the glass is 'handed' to fit one side. If it is the mechanisms that have been changed their wiring is 'handed', and you may have them on the wrong side of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T08:28:59.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12809" CreationDate="2014-08-23T13:08:27.510" Score="1" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has the P0462 (Fuel Level Sensor low input) P0500 (Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault) but both the speedometer and the fuel gauge appear to be working normally. However the tach bounces between the approximate engine speed and 0 (not all of the time but frequently). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car doesn't have any other symptoms it runs and drives fine. Doesn't bog down or have any other known issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where I should start with troubleshooting this issue as it seems odd that these problems could be unrelated given that they basically started at the same time. Is it possible that the P0500 has the same cause as the tachometer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine is 1.8L with a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T23:59:21.220" Title="2003 Nissan Sentra with fault codes P0462 and P0500" Tags="|nissan|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-23T15:32:54.093" Score="1" ViewCount="3793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blower not working at all in vectra.  c 03 plate.&#xA;Did have water coming in and have removed and replaced the cabin filter. I have located the resistor but do not know about the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6810" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T09:20:57.713" Title="where to locate the relay switch on the blower of a vauxhall vectra" Tags="|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12003" CreationDate="2014-08-23T15:34:04.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the speed sensor at the transmission with an Ohm meter and find around 25 Ohms. One of the wires, usually purple attaches, to the back of the instrument panel. Make sure of a good connection and continuity in the wiring. Another fault that can occur is that the driving wheel on the transmission output shaft is slipping on the shaft, which is a major job to rectify. The fuel sensor fault will be differant and unconnected to the speed sensor. To test the sensor fill the tank to full with any fault code on. Check the gauge reading. Then, and only then, clear the codes. If the code now returns you will need a new fuel sensor. Be careful on clearing codes, you get a lot of suggestions to clear the codes and see if they come back. Its what people who do not really know what they are talking about suggest. If the codes are cleared before an effective repair is completed, or a set procedure is not carried out, many engine ECU's will not be able to complete a drive cycle and faults will be masked, the CEL light may not even come back on. This means that the vehicle will never reach ready status and other systems can be irrepairably damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T15:34:04.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2014-08-23T15:47:31.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your fascia fuse box: Fuse No. 2 is for the AC/heater blower relay. Same fuse box you have two rows of relays, with three relays each row. There is also a smaller relay on its own, call that the bottom row. The blower relay is on the top row of relays, number three, and is directly in line with the smaller relay at the bottom.(Sorry- no picture). Fuse is a 7.5amp/brown one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T15:47:31.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-23T17:46:25.387" Score="11" ViewCount="50811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased my first car (2004 Subaru Legacy), and though I sent it to the shop soon afterward for routine maintenance, I want to learn and do as much as possible myself. 3,000 miles have rolled by since then, and I'm sending it to the shop again to have maintenance done (and a few details checked on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I changed the oil and filter myself today, so they won't need to this time. My question arises because in doing internet research before the job, I found that it's often recommended to change the oil drain plug gasket. So far so good. But the options stump me. So far I've heard fiber, nylon, rubber, copper, aluminum, and steel referenced. There are &quot;crush washers&quot;. Some say metal is better, some say it's worse. Some say nylon melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current washer is metal and seems in good shape. The contact with the pan and plug head is smooth, and the thread of the plug is very good. I guessed it would be fine to leave it in this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to do the best thing here, but I don't know what that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1053" LastEditorUserId="3513" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T19:42:32.993" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T11:41:07.173" Title="What material should I look for in an oil drain plug gasket?" Tags="|maintenance|replace|oil-pan|gasket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12007" CreationDate="2014-08-23T18:32:31.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been changing my own oil since 1975 or so, Daniel, more often than not, several cars at a time (it's been a long long time since I've only had one vehicle). I've never changed a drain plug gasket - I've never seen one that leaked significantly enough to warrant replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do wipe around the drain hole, and wipe the existing gasket, before putting the plug back in. That helps prevent dirt from getting in there &amp;amp; preventing a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Oh, Crap. Subaru engineers in their infinite &quot;wisdom&quot; elected to equip that car with a real live crush washer, original is copper, domed side to the pan flat side to the plug head. They recommend replacing it at every oil change. Somehow that saves or earns them a little money, as compared to the nylon washer (if any washer at all) that everyone else uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were mine... I'd replace it (dealer price something like a dollar US each) only when necessary to make it stop leaking, and carry a couple of spares in the glovebox... and very seriously consider migrating to a nylon washer instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="6578" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T21:15:18.703" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:15:18.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12007" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:21:59.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're buying the OEM filter from a Subaru dealer, they should be giving you a new washer with each one. It's an aluminum washer that's sort of folded over on itself so that it crushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did an oil change, so here's a picture of the washers (used on the left, new on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmnNZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Used and new washers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the left one is appreciably flattened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the crush washer on your drain plug is that it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a gasket -- i.e., not to keep fluid from leaking out -- but serves as a lock for the plug, and also as a mating surface between the steel of the pan and the steel of the plug, so that neither damages the other. Given that, and given that it deforms in order to fulfill its locking purpose, I believe it's best to replace it, and I'd suggest using the Subaru washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T21:34:51.747" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T21:34:51.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11387" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:56:47.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slightly high idle and roughness at idle sounds like a symptom of a vacuum leak in the intake system. It also would cause it to go away when the throttle is slightly depressed taking the engine off idle (~1000RPM) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how you can test that theory:&#xA;A common trick I used in the shop is to spray the intake area from the throttle body to the cylinder head including vacuum hoses with carburetor cleaner or other combustible spray. If the intake is indeed leaking and ingests the combustible vapor, the air/fuel ratio will richen back up and smooth the idle for a second or so. I have also used propane from a small plumbers torch for the same technique. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is slightly on the dangerous side to use these combustibles on an operating and hot engine so do so at your own risk.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You may also be able to hear a leak &quot;hissing&quot; or &quot;whistling&quot; if you use a section of hose against your ear and move it along areas of the intake and associated vacuum hoses while the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Jonathan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T19:56:47.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-23T22:44:52.343" Score="5" ViewCount="7015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Sunday I was driving home and noticed my dash had no lights and my power windows would not roll up. As I pulled into the driveway to park I tried to put the car in reverse.  As I did so the shifter would not go into reverse. So I put it in park and turned the ignition off. The car will not start now. I tried jump starting it and it did not work. It will not shift out of park without my shift release key. Please help. I have checked fuses and relay. I'm at a loss and don't understand what's wrong. I can't get a code because I have no power to the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6813" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T22:52:54.867" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T22:47:24.970" Title="1997 Honda Civic won't start; stuck in park" Tags="|electrical|starting|power-windows|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11995" CreationDate="2014-08-23T22:58:23.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if you have access to the battery when the engine is idling you can get a first-step diagnoses of whether the alternator is provided enough output. With the engine running check the battery voltage at, say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle (800~1000 RPM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1500 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2500 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have roughly 12.5-13.0 volts at idle, and 13.0-13.5 or more at higher RPM. If not then you most likely have an alternator that's not outputting enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case then you need to check the output at the alternator itself, if possible, to verify the same. You can check the other terminals at this point, the exact terminals varies between makes/models. Typically there is a ground, the output terminal, and a sense terminal for internally regulated alternators. There usually is an additional warning light output as well. If the ground and sense/output terminals are reading battery voltage but still isn't charging, then removal of the alternator is pretty much required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T00:43:46.540" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T00:43:46.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-24T00:20:51.300" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our starter is out on our Dodge. We had intended on having it professionally towed to our mechanic once we got a date set. A family member took their own initiative to pull it by a rope from a Kroger parking lot to our house. It's front wheel drive and was pulled in neutral (5miles) while steered and braking. Is the transmission wasted? I've recently been told by a few that it would be. :/ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6814" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T02:35:46.933" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T17:50:02.163" Title="2003 automaitic 2.4l dodge stratus transmission concern?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|dodge|stratus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12018" CreationDate="2014-08-24T02:26:46.203" Score="4" ViewCount="200361" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Chevy Silverado with dual zone climate is occasionally blowing hot air on the driver's side and cool on the passenger. It usually works fine for a few minutes before it begins blowing hot air. Once it starts blowing heat, it seems to continue until I park for a while. It doesn't always have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it's a vacuum or electric problem. I assume that low refrigerant would cause both sides be hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I'll probably be taking it to a dealership, but I'd like to know more about the problem before I do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T18:00:53.217" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T17:30:01.040" Title="Air conditioner is hot on one side" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-24T04:29:39.087" Score="4" ViewCount="4164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed recently that my 2006 Honda Pilot makes noises that sound like liquid flowing or being poured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs when braking while going down an incline when braking suddenly or when turning sharply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is at its loudest when I am going down an incline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the inside of the car it sounds like the noise is coming from the center console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any noticeable leaking under the vehicle and there is no leaking inside the vehicle either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also no indicator lights are on in the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on bringing my vehicle to the service place as soon as possible to get this looked at, but I am curious if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions as to what the cause of the sound is and if this is an indicator of a potentially serious problem with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6816" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T17:38:46.223" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T07:50:10.237" Title="2006 Honda Pilot - Liquid Flowing/Pouring Noise" Tags="|honda|noise|pilot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12017" CreationDate="2014-08-24T12:00:18.447" Score="5" ViewCount="1749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a Kawasaki GPZ500S (AKA EX500 or Ninja 500R) circa 1998.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I can't seem to find the VIN which should be embedded into the right hand side of the steering head (it's got the frame number instead).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is it possible that it didn't came with one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Clarification&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Said vehicle was intended for the european market, and was imported by an authorized dealer to Israel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Addendum&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, both answers seem to fit the glove, so thanks.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Just one last quibble: could it be possible that certain countries don't require a VIN?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Could this possibly be the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T02:54:45.867" Title="Is it possible to have a vehicle with no VIN?" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|vin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-08-24T12:37:22.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the strict sense, yes it's possible. The probability that your bike has no VIN, though, is orders of magnitude less than miniscule, especially since it's not very old within the history of motor vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was built as a prototype and never intended to be placed in production, it may not have a VIN - that's the one possibility for a bike of that age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the broader sense, though, it's entirely possible that an older vehicle might not have a &quot;VIN&quot; by definition. I happen to own a 1968 truck, for example, that has no VIN; it has only a five-numeric-digit serial number - by definition not a VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastEditorUserId="6578" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T14:47:22.823" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T14:47:22.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12014" CreationDate="2014-08-24T13:26:19.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the issue temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. After getting tired of dealing with the issue, I tried searching profusely on-line, and eventually found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1e8dl-chevrolet-avalanche-driver-side-cold-air-passenger-side.html&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which describes the issue, and a reset procedure to try, which involves removing the fuse. I found this to completely solve the problem for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T13:26:19.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12011" CreationDate="2014-08-24T13:29:43.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your ignition switch is bad, and needs to be replaced. This is a common failure on Civics of that age, particularly on higher mileage cars. A replacement switch is around $70 from a local parts store, and can take a couple of hours to replace, depending on experience and familiarity with the portions of the car that need to be removed to access and replace the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T13:29:43.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12011" CreationDate="2014-08-24T14:19:08.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'd like to try to clarify this whole situation a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your car has &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; keys, correct? An ignition key and an antitheft key that fits a special keyhole in the shifter, which manually permits the shifter to be shifted out of (P)ark without using the ignition key?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As you drove home, you noticed a loss of power to the dash lights and power windows, and when you turned off the ignition key, you noted a total loss of power?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now your car shows no sign whatever of having any electrical power to the passenger compartment, the lights don't function, the dash indicators don't function, the ignition switch doesn't energize the starter relay or solenoid, but you can crank the car by triggering the solenoid with a screwdriver?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that is true, then you either have a blown master fuse (if your car is so equipped) or a bad connection - whether at the battery or at the starter solenoid - that delivers power to the fuseblock, and through the fuseblock to the passenger compartment. A possible alternative explanation would be a faulty chassis ground plus a faulty engine-to-chassis ground, but a &lt;strong&gt;good&lt;/strong&gt; battery-to-engine ground. I don't think you have a grounding problem, though, because the solenoid (which gets its required ground from the body) can be energized with a screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the positive battery post has one heavy red wire leading to the starter solenoid and a smaller red wire leading to the fuseblock (or into the wire loom), then that smaller red wire is your suspected perpetrator - it may have a poor connection at either the battery post clamp or its other end, at the fuseblock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead, your positive battery post has only one heavy red wire leading to the solenoid, but the same stud on the solenoid also has a smaller red wire (still much heavier than most of the other wire under your hood) that leads off to the fuseblock or into the wire loom, then &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; wire is your suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, if you have a vehicle immobilizer but its connection to a horn, siren, or other sounding device has been disconnected (hence the lack of blaring noise), then your immobilizer may be at fault here; it would very likely interrupt all power to the passenger compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clear that your battery and its connections to the starter motor are still fine, since you can crank the engine with a screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T14:19:08.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7864" CreationDate="2014-08-24T14:28:39.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your automatic choke has failed and is not closing as it should when cold. If you want very much to keep the car original or just don't want to deal with a manual choke, then you'll need to find a replacement automatic choke actuator that works for the Stromberg. If, on the other hand, you'd just like to get the car functional again, then you can easily install a manual choke cable and learn to operate it effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T14:28:39.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-08-24T16:26:50.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It possible to have vehicles that no longer have a VIN despite having one originally since new replacement parts don't have a VIN on them...  Motorcycles are worst case since there are so few places the VIN is located to begin with.  On a car (with the VIN in a whole bunch of places from the factory), you can easily end up with original VIN parts being replaced with VINless new replacements as well as used parts with a totally different VIN on them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old &quot;my father's hammer&quot; problem applies to vehicles too, especially the smaller and simpler ones. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T16:51:54.430" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T16:51:54.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12013" CreationDate="2014-08-24T17:50:02.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is definitely not good for an automatic tranny to be pulled in neutral, but it doesn't mean it's automatically fried. The reason it's not good for the transmission is, the pump which distributes the tranny fluid is just behind the torque converter (in most automatic transmissions) which is attached to the engine. When the engine isn't running, there is nothing lubricating the final drive. Since the final drive is spinning while being towed, it can build up heat, which can cause damage. This shouldn't affect any of the bands or clutches, as these are not engaged at all during the tow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I wouldn't worry about it until the car is running again, but I will bet you will find there won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T17:50:02.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12015" CreationDate="2014-08-24T17:54:49.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're soliciting thoughts &amp;amp; suggestions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...it's possible that your Pilot, which has unibody construction, has picked up some water inside its integrated frame, and you actually hear that water moving around inside the frame. I've had that happen before - in my case, a plastic plug was missing and when I drove through a large puddle the frame would take on a surprising amount of water from the splash (I was young then, and knew no moderation in my driving style). It usually took several weeks of hot dry weather before the water evaporated back out of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T17:54:49.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12026" CreationDate="2014-08-24T19:16:47.297" Score="7" ViewCount="164398" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;: 2000 Blazer v6 4.3L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake goes to the floor before braking. You have to push hard to stop. Easy to &quot;skid&quot; tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake light is on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The day before they worked perfectly fine, and the next morning they went to the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine isn't started the brakes seem fine, but after starting the engine they go to the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recent Maintenance:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole brake system was replaced about a year ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since then the Spark plugs, Spark plug wires, Vacuum lines, and Cap &amp;amp; Rotor have been replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;*Changed the master cylinder today. No change, brakes still go to the floor, they still work, but they start working in the last 10% or so of pressing the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attempts &amp;amp; Checks so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double-checked the Vacuum lines thinking it might be the Booster, however the booster would make the brakes harder to push not softer and there weren't any issues with the lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked for leaks: Haven't seen any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bled the brakes: Didn't change anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front brake pads are worn a bit but not shot by any means and the rear brake pads are near perfect condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concerns:&lt;/strong&gt; I keep reading online that it could be a master-cylinder failure when I google these symptoms, however if I google the symptoms of a master-cylinder failure they appear slightly different as I can break, it just goes to the floor before doing it and it's consistently like this instead of being a one-time thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the Anti-Lock Break System (ABS)? I know the ABS has its own light on the dashboard (which isn't on) but is it possible that it's causing the issue with the breaks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Changed master-cylinder, no change. Any Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T02:30:18.147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T13:15:55.853" Title="Brakes go to the floor" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|blazer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12025" CreationDate="2014-08-24T19:44:53.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds very much (no, it sounds &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt;) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T19:44:53.480" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12215" CreationDate="2014-08-24T21:22:19.860" Score="2" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1994 Nissan pickup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had new shocks installed about 3 years ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the ball joints about 2 years ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the tie rods and front brake calipers about 1 year ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had the center link replaced about 1 year ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put less than 10,000 miles a year on the truck, so the shocks (Monroe Matic, Lifetime Warranty) should have under 30,000 miles on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started noticing a rattling or jiggling noise coming from the front of the truck about a year ago, but a front end alignment shop (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meineke.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meineke&lt;/a&gt;) told me I had rocks in my heat shields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My exhaust manifolds had bad leaks, so about a month ago I removed them to install headers. Now, I do not have any heat shields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do, however, still have that same rattle/giggle noise coming from the front of the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the truck to a tire shop, but the mechanic was not able to find it. He said he could not even hear the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally captured this noise by using a plastic cable tie to secure a recorder to the inside of the fender well on my truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xVWIKXD-Ow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube • Nissan D21 Front Suspension Mystery Rattle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is very apparent starting about 5 seconds into the clip and continues until about 23 seconds in. After that, the wind noise picked up and made the sound impossible to hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get some ideas from someone on what I should check. It sounds like a nut is lose and some part is about to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T00:54:19.407" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T02:21:41.693" Title="Front Suspension Rattle (Linked Sound Clip)" Tags="|nissan|noise|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14743" CreationDate="2014-08-25T05:05:34.307" Score="7" ViewCount="14545" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the head bolts on my 1997 Mercedes C230 stripped during removal. It is a 12 point star, I think they made be called triple square splines. The others are about 4 inches long stretch bolts. There isn't enough space to get anything in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions I have heard so far and have tried some are hammering a larger size into it, using an impact driver, and welding a socket onto it to give it something to grab. Keep in mind its an aluminum block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic friend of mine offered to do an engine swap and since the engine already had high miles I just opted to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6820" LastEditorUserId="6820" LastEditDate="2019-02-28T21:20:35.423" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T21:20:35.423" Title="What is the best way to remove a stripped head bolt that is deep in the engine?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|repair|diy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3116" CreationDate="2014-08-25T08:23:54.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simply, the reason could be that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-there was some dirt in the fuel tank, and everytime you get near the lower level some of it goes in the engine and causes problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-you are using faulty gas (added water)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option is very likely as the problems gets less heavy by using a cleaner but it comes back every time you refill gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep using the cleaner for a while (and if you can use higher-octane gas) and the problem should get smaller everytime until it eventually disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other fix to this is to have the tank removed and cleaned, but I guess this is less cheap and much more time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T08:23:54.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17398" CreationDate="2014-08-25T08:28:11.210" Score="3" ViewCount="17471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda CRV (RD7), with 190k km on the clock.  Over the last 10000km or so, there's been a slight hum coming (I'm pretty sure) from the rear, and sloooowly getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specifics of the noise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It starts getting noticeable around 60km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It peaks in volume around 70km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems to get slightly attenuated from around 80km/h onwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is worse when I have load in the rear (1-2 passengers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a really loud hum, filling the cabin, but with no specific rhythm to it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't say for sure that it gets worse or better in turns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 20k km ago, I put a new set of Pirelli P7s on the rear.  At the time, I wasn't aware that my rear suspension was in need of some work, and the tires accordingly feathered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the rear shocks about 7000km ago, but the damage to the tires had already been done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have checked all the other recommended sources of noise, including flushing both the transmission and rear diff - this does not seem to have materially improved the noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had the car for almost 3 years, and do an equal mix of city and highway driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm in Brisbane, so salty air could be a concern.  To the best of my knowledge though, the car has never done any beach driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also to the best of my knowledge, the car has never done any serious towing (or carried big loads), or gone proper offroading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, I can't for sure pinpoint the noise source to bearings (usual tests like spinning, tugging, cornering have inconclusive results).  I also can't get any consistent idea of how long a set of bearings on the CRV should last.  The tires are definitely feathered (probably about 1-2mm ridges), but I have no idea how much noise they would contribute with all else being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on a LOT of other posts on the net, service center and mechanic opinions on this particular issue isn't always accurate, and unfortunately I don't have the money ($500/bearing installed, $150-200/tire) to throw at the problem and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - I am probably skilled enough to install the bearings myself, but they're still $150 a side, and apparently on this particular model there's an issue with getting ABS sensors out of the hub without breaking them, which will add another $50-100 per side potentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, I've rotated the tires front to back, and also tested with the spare in the place of the heavily feathered tires in the back.  I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a slight reduction in overall noise, but it is not completely gone.  Whether this is because there might still be a different problem, or whether it is because the feathered tires are now generating noise at the front, but resonating through the cabin, I don't know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the slightly reduced noise, I tried the swerving slowly at about 60km/h trick.  The noise seems to dissipate slightly when I veer right, and stays about the same when I veer left.  For reference, this is a right-hand drive vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pitch changes slightly between about 60 and 80km/h, after which it drops in volume to about 100km/h, making it difficult to detect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 100km/h, it becomes 'rhythmic' - basically coming and going at probably 1Hz or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just did some more reading on tire wear patterns.  It seems that the guys at the shop describing the issue to me, had their terminology wrong.  What I have, is heel/toe wear, NOT feathering.  It is also not related to my (previously) worn suspension, since that would likely cause diagonal wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this cause road noise as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6821" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T16:04:51.987" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T15:24:30.437" Title="Honda 2005 CRV - tire noise or bearing noise?" Tags="|honda|tires|noise|bearing|crv|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12015" CreationDate="2014-08-25T13:07:00.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two common sources of water rushing noises are water in one or more of the doors and air in the cooling system causing gurgling in the heater core.&#xA;For the doors, check the bottom edge of all doors including the lift gate. There are small rubber drains that allow water to drain when it rains. If they become clogged the doors begin to fill with water and can make noise. Use a very small screwdriver or stick to poke through the drains and unclog them. I have personally seen up to a gallon or more drain out of doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cooling system, make sure your radiator is completely full as well as your overflow tank. If not, fill the radiator completely with a cold engine and the overflow to the full line. Park the vehicle with the front on a steep incline. With the vehicle in park Rev the engine to about 1200 RPMs with the A/C off. Wait for the cooling fans to cycle one full time. This should allow the thermostat to open and any air that may be trapped in the heater core to make it to the radiator and hopefully be purged to the overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&#xA;~Jonathan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T13:07:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12035" CreationDate="2014-08-25T13:45:15.077" Score="3" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard somewhere that I should soak new friction plates in oil for at least two hours prior to installation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this true? And if so, then why?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm talking about a motorcycle's wet clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T13:54:55.950" Title="Should a clutch be immersed in oil prior to installation?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|clutch|servicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12034" CreationDate="2014-08-25T13:54:55.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be; doing so thoroughly impregnates the surface with oil. If you simply assemble it dry, then oil will have a hard time getting to some of the friction plate surfaces so they'll run dry or nearly dry until the clutch has been used a number of times, and during that interval the clutch is likely to wear much faster than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T13:54:55.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-25T14:41:24.207" Score="11" ViewCount="35575" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is in the shop for a repair, and they gave me a loaner.   It's a Chevy Cruze Diesel.   Sitting on the driveway, my wife said, &quot;It sounds like a truck&quot;.   It does.   So what exactly it is about diesel or diesel engines that make them sound different than gasoline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4650" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:43:17.927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:43:17.927" Title="Why does a diesel sound like that?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|diesel|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12031" CreationDate="2014-08-25T15:13:34.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you find slight scalloping around the outer edges of the worn tires, that's the most probable source of your noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T15:13:34.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2014-08-25T15:30:38.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest factors that makes a diesel sound the way it does is the method by which the diesel is injected into the cylinder prior to/during compression and the fact that their compression ratio is so much higher than a gasoline/petrol engine. This is a roundabout way of saying that the compression-ignition causes the characteristic sound. Secondary factors include engine design, intake and exhaust manifold shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I'm sorry but there's not much more to say. The clacking sound is the diesel igniting under high pressure and high (piston) velocity and the loud roar is caused by the velocity of the exhaust gas and the shape of the exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T16:00:00.397" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T16:00:00.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11891" CreationDate="2014-08-25T16:46:33.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteryplex.com/sheets/BCI_21170_Combined_with_Cover.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can look in this battery guide (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;, and use control + F to find the 292 instances of 24F in the application guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T16:46:33.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2014-08-25T17:14:42.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The components which make up the exhaust note are the air, fuel, compression ratio, valve timing, exhaust, turbocharging, and displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine in the Cruze Diesel has a compression ratio around 16:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel is important, because diesel and petrol burn differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of all these factors is what results in the different exhaust notes. You might be looking for a more complex answer than &quot;it sounds different because it is different,&quot; but there really isn't one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T17:14:42.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12046" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:12:34.463" Score="4" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to repair a small hole I created in my exhaust.  The hole is about 1 to 1.5 inches long and only about the width of a cutting wheel (you can guess how the hole got there).  I was considering using a jb weld type product but i fear that it won't fill the hole i created.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6818" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T15:17:34.277" Title="Repairing a thin cut in exhaust pipe" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12044" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:24:20.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're looking for something approximately like this, only in the size you actually need: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/walker-aluminized-band-clamp-4-butt-joint-33312/18371105-p?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-GPLA-_-18371105&amp;amp;ci_src=17588969&amp;amp;ci_sku=18371105&amp;amp;ci_gpa=pla_with_promotion&amp;amp;ci_kw=&amp;amp;iv_=__iv_p_1_n_g_a_pla_with_promotion_d_6201684_f_online_s__o_18371105_z_US_j_71043851422_i_en_d_c_v___vi&amp;amp;gclid=CK2Y58-QscACFeRj7Aods0YA-Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exhaust band clamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:24:20.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12044" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:17:34.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a wrap and clamp to seal the hole. Your local parts store should have such a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the better solution would be to weld it shut, or cut out the section of pipe where the hole is, and weld in a new section of pipe to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T15:17:34.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12909" CreationDate="2014-08-26T16:47:45.927" Score="6" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1997 golf 3 TDI, motor code AFN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the back of the engine, there is a vacuum actuator which looks like a N75 but isn't. It isn't connected to anything on the actuator side, but is connected to the vacuum line and the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to have done much to the running, as I cannot detect a difference in power or torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both turbo charge valve actuator (N75) and egr valve actuator are present and accounted for, and I can't see an anti shudder valve anywhere on the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here are some photos;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjcF4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup view. You can see the two vacuum lines, the further one is not connected to anything.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Njg8F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;General position. It is clipped to the bottom of the cable and vacuum line tray, just behind the coolant expansion tank.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: When I said &quot;It isn't connected to anything on the actuator side&quot;, I mean literally that: there is a vacuum line coming out, but it isn't connected to anything. And I cannot see an obvious connection for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastEditorUserId="24" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T15:23:38.623" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T09:37:11.997" Title="Unknown actuator on golf mk3 tdi 110hp" Tags="|vw|golf|tdi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11201" CreationDate="2014-08-26T19:07:18.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirt bikes and enduros do this. Choppers too. Their frames and suspension styles are built around the wheel sizes though. So, unless you are riding a bike that comes &quot;stock&quot; with two different sized wheels, I would not recommend it. On any bike that goes highway speed, you should be especially careful, since you may place more strain on forks or other components than they were tested under due to geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to stick with the sizes that are on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on changing the diameter of your wheels, note that the speedo drive is on the hub and shouldn't change your speedo accuracy. You may experience slower acceleration with a larger rear wheel. You will experience reduced braking and reduced overall performance the larger your wheels get in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastEditorUserId="6721" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T20:54:49.193" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T20:54:49.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2014-08-26T21:47:52.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated, the ignition source between gasoline/gas engines and diesel engines are different and this is the primary reason for the difference in sound. I will try to explain those differences so you you'll understand why the sound is there with one, rather than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 1:&lt;/strong&gt; There is a diatribe here, but bear with me as I attempt to answer the question as I believe the OP is requesting. I need to explain the differences for one to understand why a diesel engine sounds like it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel: Diesel v. Gasoline (Petrol) -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a fuel, diesel has a higher density than does gasoline. It is about 12% denser than non-ethanol gasoline (with ethanol based gasoline, the density is even higher, depending on the mix). Diesel offers a higher volumetric energy density at 35.86 MJ/L (128,700 BTU/US gal) v. 32.18 MJ/L (115,500 BTU/US gal) for gasoline, some 11% higher, which should be considered when comparing the fuel efficiency by volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Mechanical Differences: Diesel v. Gasoline - Three major differences&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;First difference - Compression&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel, whether gasoline or diesel &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; burn with or without the help of compressed air, but the more the air is compressed, the greater the efficiency from the burning fuel. With this in mind, understand that when someone refers to &lt;strong&gt;compression&lt;/strong&gt; in an engine, they are talking about the ratio at which the air (or air/fuel mixture in gas engines) is squeezed before ignition occurs. In a gasoline engine, a rule of thumb is the engine will see a 3% increase in efficiency for each point of compression introduced (all other engine components staying the same). I will assume this is probably about true for diesel engines as well. The &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; compression ratio of regular gasoline engines runs about 8.0:1 up to around 11.5:1 (with high performance engines reaching over 14.0:1 - &lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; It has been brought to my attention that the Mazda Skyactiv-G engine comes with 14:1 CR outside the US and 13:1 CR in the US. Mazda uses other technology to help reduce knocking, but this high of CR is not the norm for gasoline internal combustion engines). An automotive diesel engine will run around 14.0:1 up to the 18.0:1 arena.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I differentiate between &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;dynamic&lt;/em&gt; compression ratio here, because there is a huge difference in numbers and how they are figured. I won't go into the difference, just know there is a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 3:&lt;/strong&gt; I differentiate between &lt;em&gt;automotive&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;non-automotive&lt;/em&gt; diesel engines, because while all diesel engines &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; run the same, there are some huge differences between automotive and large marine diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Second Difference - Fuel Delivery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be the primary fuel delivery method for gasoline engines was a carburetor. This was true up until the mid to late 80's, at which point many car manufacturers started realizing the benefits of fuel injection. This type of fuel injection is &lt;em&gt;indirect&lt;/em&gt; fuel injection, meaning the injector which meters the fuel going into the engine sits outside of the combustion chamber and inside the air intake tract. It relies on the movement of air through the intake tract to help atomize the fuel and get it into the cylinder. Very recently (around 2010), auto manufacturers started utilizing &lt;em&gt;direct&lt;/em&gt; injection, which disperses fuel directly into the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines also utilize direct injection. They have used this method since &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Timeline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;about 1891 when Herbert Akroyd Stuart&lt;/a&gt; invents the first internal combustion engine to use a pressurised fuel injection system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Third Difference - Ignition Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easily put, diesel engines utilize heat to ignite the fuel, while gasoline uses electricity (yes, the spark is hot, but hopefully you see the difference). Gas using electricity to create combustion is pretty easy to figure out. Spark plug goes zap, the air/fuel goes boom. The air/fuel mixture has to be just right in order to do it and the spark has to come at just the right point (timing). The spark works just fine for a gasoline engine because the fuel will atomize and evaporate within the air, which makes it very easy to burn. The small ignition source which is the spark is more than enough to start the burn of fuel and allow it to continue to burn until the mixture is completely exhausted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since diesel is so much heavier than gasoline (it is technically considered an oil, much like kerosene and heating oil), it will not evaporate very well in the air. In order to get it to burn fast enough, there has to be an ignition source of sufficient heat. To accomplish this heat, the piston compresses the air inside the cylinder to such an extent, it heats it up to over 1000degF. Let me quote the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Operating_principle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki article on Diesel Engines to finish this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At about the top of the compression stroke, fuel is injected directly into the compressed air in the combustion chamber. This may be into a (typically toroidal) void in the top of the piston or a pre-chamber depending upon the design of the engine. The fuel injector ensures that the fuel is broken down into small droplets, and that the fuel is distributed evenly. The heat of the compressed air vaporizes fuel from the surface of the droplets. The vapor is then ignited by the heat from the compressed air in the combustion chamber, the droplets continue to vaporize from their surfaces and burn, getting smaller, until all the fuel in the droplets has been burnt. The start of vaporization causes a delay period during ignition and &lt;strong&gt;the characteristic diesel knocking sound as the vapor reaches ignition temperature and causes an abrupt increase in pressure above the piston&lt;/strong&gt;. The rapid expansion of combustion gases then drives the piston downward, supplying power to the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 4:&lt;/strong&gt; I want to point out, newer truck diesel engines (and I assume autos as well), have started using injections systems which, instead of injecting all the diesel at once, pump several smaller amounts of diesel into the engine, which quiets the &quot;diesel noise&quot; you hear from them by a large amount. This also provides better fuel economy as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 5:&lt;/strong&gt; Diesel engines typically have better fuel economy than gasoline engines, mainly due to them have a better thermal efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE 6:&lt;/strong&gt; If you have read this far, you must truly be insane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T10:18:10.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:18:10.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T07:54:08.790" Score="8" ViewCount="82750" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is specific to diesel or gasoline (petrol) engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people told me that it is very bad to run out of diesel since it can damage the engine and it's difficult to re-engage it afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true? What would happen if I ran out of diesel? What parts would be damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastEditorUserId="6578" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T12:57:11.870" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T02:56:04.290" Title="What happens when you run out of fuel?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12052" CreationDate="2014-08-27T08:08:20.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine consumes all the diesel in the tank, it also consumes the dirt/leavings from the diesel that tend to accumulate at the bottom of the tank. The dirt will go into the engine and into the alimentation circuit and a clearing will be needed because dirt may hinder the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you run out of diesel there won't be any more in the circuit and it will have to be restarted (as in to make diesel go into the circuit again) manually or with a separate pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T08:08:20.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11201" CreationDate="2014-08-27T09:09:19.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A larger wheel diameter WILL influence the dashboard's readings IF the sensor that reads data is placed on the wheel (like on bicycles, but usually on motorcycles it is placed near the brake), as it calibrated for a certain wheel. If the sensor is placed (very often) on the front sprocket, readings won't be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T09:09:19.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T10:35:49.237" Score="1" ViewCount="1532" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the normal fuel consumption for carburetor type Toyota 3A engine?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My 1986 Toyota Carina AT 150 gets 11 km/l in city and 14 km/l on highways.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How can I increase could I increase the fuel economy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did tune up recently, (replaced spark plugs, adjusted the carburetor, and replaced all the plug wires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T05:26:40.057" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T05:26:40.057" Title="How to increase fuel economy" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|carburetor|carina|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12059" CreationDate="2014-08-27T12:07:53.493" Score="2" ViewCount="14286" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2009 Honda Civic and it's getting close to 60k in miles. I know there is a big maintenance that's supposed to be done at that level, and I've been quoted for $400 for it at my local Honda dealership. My question is, if I have a quite well maintained Civic, what is the &lt;em&gt;minimal&lt;/em&gt; set of services that you would definitely recommend over things that are optional and possibly overrated? For instance, perhaps those would seem to be really worth it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plug replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versus others that may be just superfluous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is well maintained:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels are very new (within last 1 ~ 2 years and already rotated front to back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil changes regularly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads are also replaced recently (within 6 months)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I already had 30k maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given this, what would be the most cost-effective set of maintenance services for 60k miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6830" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:04:52.830" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T19:08:47.257" Title="Minimal set of maintenance recommended for 60,000 mile Honda civic based on prior history" Tags="|honda|maintenance|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12055" CreationDate="2014-08-27T13:07:24.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might expect about 19.6 km/l (all things perfect, maximum efficiency), but 14.5 km/l highway to 11.5 km/l (city) is realistic if fuel/ignition/engine are in excellent condition and the tires are correctly inflated; those numbers are original factory spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are physical limits to the efficiency one might expect from any given car due to weight, wind resistance, unavoidable rolling resistance, inertia, and mechanical losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T13:07:24.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2014-08-27T13:55:36.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the dealer should be able to adjust the cost to only perform maintenance on items that are actually needed. They should check the coolant, and other fluids, and only recommend replacing what needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pads may have been replaced already, but the fluid does need to be flushed and replaced every few years, regardless of mileage. Spark plugs probably do not need replaced, until 100K miles. If they do need replaced, then it's probably a good sign that something else is out of normal operating parameters for the engine as well. The coolant system also needs a flush and fill every few years. If you've got an automatic transmission, it might also be the right time for it to be flushed and replaced as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery and alternator are also good things to have checked at this time. They don't last forever, and if the battery has not yet been replaced in the car, it might be getting close to needing replacement as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension components may have worn down as well and should be inspected. Bearings, hubs, and ball joints may need replaced, depending on how it's been driven for those 60K miles, and on what types of roads, and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 60K recommended service is recommended for good reason. The actions specified in the service should be performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T13:55:36.033" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12185" CreationDate="2014-08-27T15:11:03.843" Score="3" ViewCount="65777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a new 2014 Ford Fusion and am planning on modifying the factory audio equipment. I've been searching around on some websites (The 12 Volt and various forums) and can't seem to find a reliable source for it. I tried buying a service manual and they were either not available or sold out. I don't want to wait for an online order if I don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a diagram or can point me in the right direction for one? All I really need are the speaker wire colors from behind the radio or if they're in the trunk somewhere, that'd be incredible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T07:48:09.497" Title="Ford Fusion 2014 Wiring Diagram" Tags="|audio|wiring|fusion|speakers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2014-08-27T15:25:47.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers tend to be fairly consistent with their stereo wiring, so it ought to be the same as other modern Fords. A quick googling reveals &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carstereo.com/help/carwires.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt;, which suggests the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power&#xA;Memory (+12v Constant)      Green Yellow&#xA;Ignition (+12v Switched)    Yellow/Black&#xA;Ground (-)                  Black or Fat Red&#xA;Illumination                Orange&#xA;Dimmer                      Orange/White&#xA;Power Antenna               Blue (varies greatly)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Speakers&#xA;Right Front (+)     White/Green&#xA;Right Front (-)     Green/Orange&#xA;Left Front (+)      Orange/Green&#xA;Left Front (-)      Light Blue&#xA;Right Rear (+)      Pink/Blue&#xA;Right Rear (-)      Green/orange&#xA;Left Rear (+)       Pink/green&#xA;Left Rear (-)       Pink/Blue&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With, of course, the usual disclaimers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T15:25:47.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2014-08-27T16:13:13.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alloys tend to lose air after a while due to corrosion on the rim/tyre junction.&#xA;In the past, I have taken them to an engineering company who would skim the rims back to perfection. Problem solved, but it did cost £35 per wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6840" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T05:23:00.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:23:00.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12028" CreationDate="2014-08-27T18:39:12.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is some of the bolt sticking out you can use a vise-grip or similiar. Welding can potentially be dangerous, only do this in a well ventilated area and free and clear of any fuel sources.&#xA;If the bolt is sheared off below the surface then use a EZ-OUT or use a drill bit 2-3 steps smaller than the bolt. Drill down the center of the bolt, tap the hole, then get a reverse thread screw/bolt to go into the drilled bolt and extract it. ( when drilling, be careful of filings so they don't enter the engine at any point. Take paper towels or other items and seal any openings up.)&#xA;When you remove the bolt, clean the hole, re-tap the newly cleaned bolt hole (prevent further problems). &#xA;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T18:39:12.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T18:39:49.667" Score="4" ViewCount="3503" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my truck, the engine stopped dead, like it ran out of gas. I used a by-pass wire to go around the EFI and Circuit open relay, the truck ran fine. I noticed a ground wire leading from the injector rail was hot and had melted. Replaced ground wires from battery, and the truck runs fine, BUT the EFI relay in the fuse box gets very hot to the touch. The wire that had issues seems fine now. Do I need a new relay? Will this issue happen again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6843" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T19:30:32.007" Title="1990 Toyota Pickup 22re fuel injection EFI relay is getting hot" Tags="|engine|toyota|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12065" CreationDate="2014-08-27T19:11:56.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relays in active use will always get hot. They are an electromagnetic coil, and so will generate heat while electricity is flowing through the relay. As long as the current doesn't exceed the capabilities of the relay, then it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T19:11:56.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12055" CreationDate="2014-08-27T21:35:42.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just rebuilt the engine, something you probably haven't taken into account is frictional losses while the engine is breaking in. Engines take about a 1000 miles to break in (unless you do some specific break-in procedures). Once the engine is broke-in, you can expect better mileage from the engine. Things are a little tighter right after rebuild than they will be later on. Once the break-in process is done, things loosen up, oil flows a little easier, rings slide up and down the cylinder easier, gears and belts roll a little easier ... all of this equates to better gas mileage. &lt;em&gt;How much better&lt;/em&gt; is the real question here, but it will improve some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T21:35:42.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12047" CreationDate="2014-08-27T21:48:30.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more than likely a vacuum switch which tells the computer &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; when it reaches a certain amount of vacuum (could also be a pressure switch doing the same thing when the turbo reaches a certain pressure, depending on which side of the turbo the &quot;vacuum&quot; line is located). This would be why you are only seeing the vacuum line and connection to the PCM and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T21:48:30.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12052" CreationDate="2014-08-27T22:11:10.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some&lt;/em&gt; diesel engines will have problems, others will not. It all depends on how the injection system works on the vehicle. The bigger issue to worry about is the extraneous parts, such as the fuel pump (primary or low-pressure and secondary or high-pressure). Diesel is primarily an oil, which helps cool and lubricate the parts it comes in contact with. Those parts include the pumps (as mentioned) and the injectors. When you run out of fuel, parts tend to heat up, more-so the pumps than the injectors, because at least the primary pump will continue to try and pump with having the aide of the fuel to cool it. This is actually true of most in-tank fuel pumps used in fuel injected vehicles whether it's diesel or gasoline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, don't run your fuel low, as you can be causing your fuel system issues. It probably won't hurt the engine itself, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older diesel systems had to siphon fuel from the tank. If they ran out of fuel, it was heck trying to get them started again. You had to bleed the air from the system so it would siphon again. You shouldn't have to worry about this with newer vehicles (whether gas or diesel). Like I stated earlier, they use one pump, usually located in the tank to provide the fuel to the secondary pump, where it is pressurized to a much higher level. A lot of diesel vehicles also use more than one fuel filter to ensure the fuel going into the injection system is pretty clean. The tolerances on the secondary injection pumps are pretty tight, so foreign matter in there could reek havoc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T22:11:10.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12025" CreationDate="2014-08-27T22:39:09.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That to me sounds like your master cylinder has failed as the first poster pointed out. The master cylinder will keep the brakes up once it is functioning the way it should, the minute there is any change in the feel, it is either the booster (harder feel) or Master Cylinder (softer feel or dropped brake pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, brake pedals tend to go to the floor when there is air in the line and they need to be bled but this only happens when the pedal is depressed. Finally, there is a little switch under your dash that is held down turning the brake lights off when the brake is up. Once you sort the brake being to the floor out, then the lights will work as they normally do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace (or rebuild) your brake master cylinder and flush out all old brake fluid and then refill it taking care to bleed all air out and then you should have perfect brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T22:39:09.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2014-08-28T04:18:40.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Civic Hybrid and other CVT transmissions require CVT transmission fluid from Honda. ATF fluid is not for CVT. Also the change interval for the Honda Civic Hybrid CVT fluid is about 30-40 thousand miles (Maintenance Code: B13). My 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid has 144000 miles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6847" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T04:18:40.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2014-08-28T10:04:43.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;also Diesel engines have a longer stroke than ordinary petrol engines. which means pistons travel a longer distance that it does in petrol engines. And turbo/super/ram air intake systems have completely different timings than naturally aspirated petrol engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T10:04:43.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2567" CreationDate="2014-08-28T19:05:54.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a engine temperature sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T19:05:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4946" CreationDate="2014-08-28T23:56:43.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest a dye test, they're not very costly if you know how to do it yourself. Ive had a 99 taurus in the family, thw valve covers leak pretty often, and for some reason so does the head gasket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T23:56:43.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-29T08:39:05.103" Score="3" ViewCount="11600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is vague, I don't know very much, but I'll do my best. I want to have as much information possible before taking it to a garage to do anything. I have a 2003 Peugeot 206 1.1l which has done ~27000 miles. It's running pretty well, on the whole and the exhaust has recently been replaced for the 1st time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way to work today, near the start of the journey, when I stopped in a queue of traffic the engine quietly cut out with no warning or stutter. I restarted the car and it was fine for a little while (including stopping again), and then it did the same again when I stopped. This happened for around about 20 minutes, with 3/4 'stalls' out of 9/10 stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a quick look on the internet, but not knowing the first thing meant that I couldn't make an informed judgement really. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/topic46028-1-1.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This forum post&lt;/a&gt;, saying that it turned out to be a faulty engine control unit seemed to be the most similar to my case, although it's an older model. Another theory, based upon asking around, was air in the fuel line, which sounds like something that I might be able to fix myself if I can confirm that it is that somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might be wrong, or how to find out what might be wrong, before taking it to a garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6860" LastEditorUserId="6860" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T09:03:37.420" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T09:42:16.093" Title="Peugeot 206 engine occasionally cutting out when idle" Tags="|engine|peugeot|fuel-line|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12087" CreationDate="2014-08-29T10:57:23.567" Score="5" ViewCount="20848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm troubleshooting &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/11790/675&quot;&gt;what I believe&lt;/a&gt; is an engine misfire on my LS1 Chevy and want to rule out if I have bad ignition coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to do this I took out the ignition coils and measured the resistances across every possible combination of the four pins. The thought here was that any measurement that registers as an outlier in comparison to the rest would manifest itself in the readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also purchased a new coil and took similar measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terminal nomenclature corresponds to what is in the diagram below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dm0nu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the raw measurements taken with a Fluke 87 V multimeter. All measurements are in kilo-ohms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    | Coil #1 | Coil #2 | Coil #3 | Coil #4 | Coil #5 | Coil #6 | Coil #7 | Coil #8 | New Coil #1&#xA;----+---------+---------+---------+---------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------------&#xA;A-B | 31.71   | 29.30   | 29.64   | 34.19   | 28.14   | 31.47   | 34.08   | 32.89   | 26.77&#xA;A-C | 31.50   | 29.85   | 29.55   | 34.17   | 28.67   | 31.35   | 34.02   | 32.89   | 26.59&#xA;A-D | 33.67   | 33.7    | 33.56   | 34.09   | 33.52   | 33.89   | 61.00   | 62.10   | 31.29&#xA;B-C | 12.05   | 11.96   | 11.95   | 12.17   | 11.90   | 12.03   | 12.14   | 12.10   | 11.83&#xA;B-D | 88.70   | 83.10   | 84.80   | 94.00   | 82.40   | 87.20   | 95.10   | 95.00   | 73.9&#xA;C-D | 88.50   | 83.70   | 84.80   | 94.00   | 82.90   | 87.1    | 95.00   | 95.00   | 73.8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that logging resistances may not reflect whether something is &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot;, so I'd appreciate if someone could explain what the circuit diagram shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information on the LS1 coil can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" OwnerDisplayName="Zaid" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T16:33:07.157" Title="Do I have a bad ignition coil? Measurements inside" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|ignition-coil|ls1|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12085" CreationDate="2014-08-29T13:29:47.597" Score="2" ViewCount="31069" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a 2008 Jeep Liberty.  Recently when the air is on (vent, heat or AC) a rattling noise that I would say sounds similar to...fan bearings is coming from the passenger side dash air vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what the issue is, the sound does not seem to come from any of the other vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what the issue is?  Is this something I can get into and fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T03:56:58.270" Title="Rattling noise from passenger side Air Vent" Tags="|jeep|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12055" CreationDate="2014-08-29T13:49:28.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may go without saying, but changing your driving style may help very much here. I used to have an older car with a V6 and I'd get roughly 16 MPGs (Car was supposed to get 21 city, 25 hwy). I recently got a newer car that had almost identical fuel economy (22/26) but it had an LED indicator to show if my driving style was consuming more/less fuel. I'm actually getting close to 25 MPG average just from changing my driving style. I know it isn't just from newer tech since when I first got the car, I was at about 19-20 MPGs (the engine was broken in so the econ readings were accurate for the most part, I'm sure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that help most are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting to a stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerating and trying to keep engine RPMs around 2k or lower if possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintaining a steady speed once you're at your speed limit (i.e. cruise control)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T13:49:28.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2014-08-29T13:59:33.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need both grounds. I had a 1963 Oldsmobile giving to me. The person could not fix it.  Every time it made a right hand turn, the car would die. He took the dash apart looking for the cause and did not find anything. I got the car and first thing I saw was the ground strap to the engine was broke. Just by making a turn the strap came apart and the car would die. I put a jumper cable on frame and engine. I drove it back to owner's house in 30 min. He was not happy. I got it working. Nice car. It was a 2 door Jet Star.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T18:57:07.423" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T18:57:07.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12082" CreationDate="2014-08-29T14:18:04.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main possibilities that are on my mind for what your problem is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The blower motor is going bad and just needs replacing. I'm not sure where the access to the blower motor is on your vehicle, but generally this is a fairly easy repair to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The blend door in the HVAC enclosure is sticking or the motor is being overdriven, producing a repeated &quot;clacking&quot; noise. This can often be remedied by turning the temperature control all the way to hot, waiting a few seconds for the sound to stop, and then turning the temperature back down to the desired cooling. Another possibility is to pull the fuse for this circuit, turn the ignition to on, wait a couple minutes, turn the ignition off, replace the fuse, and turn the ignition on. This may reset the circuit memory and fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Animals. The blower motor housing on cars is a common refuge for rodent folk. You can usually tell if they've taken up living there from the smell though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try the blend door first and if the sound doesn't go away from adjusting the temp to max on both ends of the spectrum, pull the blower motor and see if anything got inside the housing, or if the motor is going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T14:18:04.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2014-08-29T14:21:42.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it happens with many such questions, the answer is &quot;it depends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines are more expensive. In long term, diesel engine car is cost-efficient (taking into account purchase price and fuel costs) when you are making greater mileage per year. It should be easy to calculate savings on fuel vs higher purchase price of diesel-equipped vehicle. Conclusion: if I need a car to driving to office a few kilometers per day (happens if you live in Europe and work in your hometown), petrol may be better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern diesel engines are sophisticated machinery. Good old rule of thumb says if there is more complexity, there are more reasons to break. Especially when buying used car, which mechanical warranty is already expired, you may want to keep in mind that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Mass Flywheels, as suggested by @Chris McKeown are not going to live forever. Often they are not repairable, and expensive to replace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF) are installed in most (if not all) modern diesel engines to reduce soot from exhaust gases. Unfortunately, short driving cycles, when engine is just barely heated up, will lead to jamming of the filter. Onboard computers sometimes order &quot;burning&quot; process by enabling all possible electrical devices in car, increasing exhaust temperature (and fuel consumption). If that not helps, the filter needs to be replaced, which may be expensive. If you driving mostly in your hometown, risk of failure is substantial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common Rail fuel feeding is powered by high pressure fuel pump (up to 2000 bars), and precise piezoelectric injectors. This equipment is operating in extreme conditions, which increases rick of malfunction, especially over long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: diesel engines are generally more efficient, have more torque, they do not sound so bad nowadays :), but it comes with a cost of complexity and higher price. It may be less a problem when purchasing a brand new car from dealership and have all issues covered by warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol engines are generally considered &quot;safer&quot; to maintain, but not so fuel-efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6862" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T14:21:42.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12081" CreationDate="2014-08-29T14:24:12.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there aren't any terrific ways of testing these things with a meter because of the internal electronics. In addition, at least one measurement you make &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; (will probably) be polarity-sensitive, especially if you use the &quot;diode check&quot; function on your multimeter - that's the A-D reading. Using &quot;diode check&quot;, reading &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; way your meter should read something like 0.7 and reading the &lt;strong&gt;other&lt;/strong&gt; way your meter should read a far higher number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of interest is the A-to-sparkplug reading. That's reading directly across the coil's secondary winding, assuming that the little grey box inside the igniter isn't some unspecified component but is instead just a connection. That reading should read the same both directions whether you use &quot;diode check&quot; or not, and all coils should read about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the meter settings, all the A-B-C readings may yield all manner of inconsistencies because they read through the igniter's electronics... and the igniters themselves may have been built by any number of companies using parts with varied tolerances, and those tolerances may be cumulative so it's possible to get quite a range of readings. The larger grey box inside the igniter is what's known in the electronics field as a &quot;black box&quot;, meaning that nobody except the manufacturer will ever know exactly what it contains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, coils #7 and #8 do stand out significantly in the A-D readings. That &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be because the internal NPN transistor (a bipolar) or its bypass diode has developed a higher-than normal internal emitter-to-collector(s) resistance, or &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; simply be indicative of those cumulative tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to try running the engine &amp;amp; taking careful note of how (in terms of misses) it runs under all conditions (cold/hot/slow/fast), then swapping out #7 with your new coil and comparing notes, then moving the new coil to #8 position and comparing notes again. If you see an improvement with the new coil at either #7 or #8, then the original coil for that cylinder is suboptimal. If you see an improvement with the new coil &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; and #7 &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; #8, then you'd do well to buy another replacement coil &amp;amp; swap them both out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T14:24:12.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15111" CreationDate="2014-08-29T17:47:32.143" Score="6" ViewCount="55326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1982 Suzuki SP250. The bike &quot;doesn't want&quot; to shift into neutral sometimes. I have to rock it back and forth and shift up and down the gears a for a while before it shifts. I have changed the gear oil (it was very dark and had a lot of metal flakes in it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T10:00:53.963" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T23:30:03.790" Title="Bike is sometimes not wanting to shift into neutral" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|clutch|suzuki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12216" CreationDate="2014-08-29T19:22:01.110" Score="2" ViewCount="11151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has been shaking on start-up. The check-engine light has been on/off periodically. When I originally took it in, my mechanic replaced a sensor (and a whole bunch of other stuff not related to this problem) and said i'd be good to go. But I still noticed the shaking and a few days later the light came on again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it in again, he said he got a code for an intake runner cooler or something but said to drive it around and take it in again when the light comes back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shaking mostly happens in the morning, when I first start the car up, when it is moist. There was heavy dew this A.M. and when I started up, it was really bad and the car actually stopped running. I was able to start it up again immediately though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a suspicion that it is the spark plugs, could this be the case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car did that this A.M. The light came back on and I took it to AutoZone to get a free reading. The only code that came up was for an oxygen sensor, which I just had replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, the light went off as soon as I got back in after the reading, does getting a reading clear the code? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;car is a 2005 mazda m3 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6543" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T03:13:22.770" Title="Car shaking on startup" Tags="|mazda|sparkplugs|misfire|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-29T20:17:44.657" Score="0" ViewCount="10280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rattling automatic belt tensioner on my 2002 Infiniti Q45. I've spoken with 2 mechanics, one of them at the Infiniti dealership, who told me a rattling belt tensioner, while annoying, is not indicative of a failing part. They instructed me to replace the tensioner when the belts are replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, the time has arrived for belt replacement and I'm finding there are different components for replacing on belt tensioners: the pulley and the assembly. To see such options on this car, see this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Belts/C0074/C0007.oap?model=Q45&amp;amp;vi=1378942&amp;amp;year=2002&amp;amp;make=Infiniti&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;O'Reilly Auto page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would clearly be much less expensive to just replace the pulleys, but I don't want to bother if it won't fix the rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T18:45:21.200" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:50:44.727" Title="When an automatic belt tensioner is rattling, which component is rattling?" Tags="|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12025" CreationDate="2014-08-29T22:28:15.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We solved the issue today. It came down to a sneaky leak in the back brake lines. We fixed that and then had to bleed the breaks a ridiculous amount. After bleeding the back brakes about 10-15 times each the brakes no longer went to the floor (and fixing the sneaky leak of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T22:28:15.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12094" CreationDate="2014-08-30T04:00:35.923" Score="1" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had an issue with my brakes that was incredibly hard to find due to a sneaky leak and additionally a brake (back-passenger-side) needing bled 10-15 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 10-15 times normal? My brake before this went to the floor, so I'm guessing my case is extreme but I am new to vehicle maintenance and was curious how many times is normal? The impression I got from my Dad was 1-5 and he acted like 5 was an extreme case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T11:20:12.050" Title="Pump and Hold Brake Bleeding (2 Person)" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2014-08-30T04:08:30.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your impression was right - 5 is pretty extreme, if we're counting bleeds per wheel. It's very seldom I go beyond 3 unless the caliper (disk) or wheel cylinder (drum) is brand-new and completely empty. The pedal can move a lot of fluid in one pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T04:08:30.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12091" CreationDate="2014-08-30T14:47:31.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is really subjective. Since we are not there and cannot determine what is going on, it is going to be up to you to solve what you need to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'll give you two scenarios which might help you get to an end point in your decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have the belt off and have access to the tensioner&#xA;(pulley will spin free), grab the pulley and see if there is any&#xA;deflection. Deflection meaning, does it move in any way other than&#xA;going around?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it teeter on its axis? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you hear any noise when you rotate it by hand? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it feel like there is any grinding in the bearing (it should be&#xA;very smooth and spin freely)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing any or all of these problems, the pulley is probably out of sorts, and it will need to be replaced, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;BUT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the belt on and engine running, did the tensioner move a lot when the engine was revved? (I would define a lot of movement as rotating more than 5deg ... subjective, though.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has the belt jumped off of track recently?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you been hearing the alternator scream at you right after start-up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the belt seem like it is &quot;flopping in the wind&quot; as the engine is running (usually seen on a longer run between pulleys)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing any of these issues, I'd suggest you replace the entire assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to think about, at least here in the States, is that if you go to O'Reilly's, get just the pulley, replace yours, and it doesn't solve the issue, you should be able to take it back to them for a full refund or exchange for the tensioner, which will have the pulley on it. Ask them at the counter first, but this should hold true at almost any major auto parts chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T14:47:31.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6254" CreationDate="2014-08-30T20:31:29.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS system detects the difference in rotational speed as the tyre deflates and spins faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bradley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6865" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T20:31:29.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12147" CreationDate="2014-08-31T01:45:03.907" Score="3" ViewCount="25672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dropped my helmet from the seat of my motorcycle. Is it still safe to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6667" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T09:27:07.387" Title="Still safe to use a helmet when it's dropped?" Tags="|motorcycle|gears|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2014-08-31T02:44:49.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably... but not advisable. The manufacturer refuses any liability if it's ever been dropped once because the impact sets up tiny hairline cracks in the plastic, so the helmet won't ever quite be as good as it was before it was dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T02:44:49.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2014-08-31T03:46:51.703" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crankshaft position sensor failure may be causing what you describe.  The fix is an easy DYI job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T03:46:51.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9714" CreationDate="2014-08-31T04:48:20.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after trying to tune up just about everything and replacing all potential suspect parts, it turns out that the fuel pump is dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5020" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T04:48:20.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T09:05:21.457" Score="3" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was at a dealership recently and of course they advertised the typical Lojack. No doubt I feel these things are useful but it seems the price actually fluctuates (one dealership was selling to me for $695 whereas another was selling for $995). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly does a Lojack work? Are there alternatives for a Lojack? Does it really cost as much as the dealership says it does? Can these be installed by ourselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6869" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T19:50:43.417" Title="How do Lojacks work? Are there alternatives?" Tags="|sensor|service|dealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12102" CreationDate="2014-08-31T10:46:09.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lojack is what is called the &quot;aftermarket&quot; in the automotive sales world. This is just one way a dealership will try to rip you off when purchasing a new (or used, for that matter) vehicle. When I say &quot;rip you off,&quot; I'm not saying that the product doesn't work as advertised, as I'm sure it does. What I'm saying is, they mark up the price on such items to the point where they are making a ton of money. For instance, when I worked at a dealership, our aftermarket department would talk to the customer and suggest they purchase three products. The products were paint sealant, undercoating, and Scotch Guard of the interior. The sales person would tell them all of these products would normally cost $1400, but &quot;today only we are running a special of $800&quot; (or some such number) ... and of course this cost can be rolled up into the financing of the vehicle. The actual cost to the dealership? $80. Anything they put on at the dealership will have a HUGE markup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how Lojack works, I'm sure it works as advertised. I've never heard of it doing otherwise ... though I've never talked to anyone who has ever had to use it either. If your vehicle is stolen, you contact them, they send out a signal to the Lojack, this activates the Lojack, which then starts sending out a signal as to where its location. The Popo can then track it and find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only alternative I can think of to Lojack would probably be Onstar, which is only offered on GM or GM partnered vehicles (I think Honda is one?). There may be some others out there. Onstar can be tracked by the police, but has an added benefit of being able disable the vehicle so it cannot run, which makes it a lot easier for the police to catch up with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get Lojack'ed is at a dealership, though there may be installers willing to do it for you. The Lojack installer will be called in and put it in any of several locations on your vehicle, unbeknownst to you. You will know it's there &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt;, but you'll not know where. This is part of their deal so as nobody really has the exact location on your specific vehicle. This helps with the theft deterrent portion of Lojack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's up to you whether you'd have one installed. The biggest issue you need to look at is whether your area warrants having something like this. If you live in a high crime neighborhood, it may be advised to have it installed. If the car is going to be housed in a garage at night inside of a gated community, it's probably not going to be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T10:46:09.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23752" CreationDate="2014-08-31T11:27:57.413" Score="11" ViewCount="6674" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides recycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard, for example, that I can use it to lubricate the drive chain (in a motorcycle / bicycle), but that doesn't appeal to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T06:27:50.380" Title="What can I do with used motor oil?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T13:21:28.170" Score="0" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Oldsmobile alero 4cylinder. This is what im noticing when I put the car in drive sometimes, and press gas the car doesn't want to go it hesitate even when im pressing gas a n d then I will let it go and try again and it goes. The other problem im having when im in the highway and try to accelarate over 70mph it wont let me go any faster even when I push the pedal all the way down and the rpm just stays at 3000 the speed wont go past 70 mph please help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6870" LastEditorUserId="6870" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T21:34:14.290" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T21:34:14.290" Title="1999 olds alero wont acelerate over 70mph need help" Tags="|maintenance|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12104" CreationDate="2014-08-31T13:50:34.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use it, blended with diesel and kerosene, for undercoating. I'm rural, though - you probably couldn't do that in a city. You can also superfilter it (toilet-paper filter), then heat it above 100*C (to boil off any contained water), and reuse it as motor oil in less-than-critical engines (lawn mowers, etc) or as two-stroke oil for chainsaws. After superfiltering, it makes a fine general-purpose oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T13:50:34.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T14:36:44.290" Score="0" ViewCount="11137" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought the car, old owner agreed to fit a standard steering wheel back in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All was fine. After around 2000 miles of me driving it, the airbag light come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've disconnected the battery and remove steering wheel.&#xA;I connected battery after 20 min or so, and the light remains on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I reset the warning light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T08:13:29.427" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T16:46:57.377" Title="How can I reset the steering wheel airbag warning light" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T19:03:10.533" Score="7" ViewCount="12042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a car with frameless side windows. Whenever a door handle is touched, the door window is automatically slightly lowered to release it from upper sealing. During winters, temperatures are often freezing around here and with past cars, I've sometimes noticed window glass being frozen stuck to seals, but then I've had not much incentive to open them anyway. Gut feeling tells me that with this car, a frozen window would mean the door wouldn't open, making the car completely unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I maintain my power windows so they wouldn't freeze stuck during winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it matter, the car is an Opel Astra G cabrio, but AFAIK many other cars, e.g. Volkswagen Eos, Nissan 350z, Peugeot 406 Coupe, Ford Focus CC etc. also behave the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastEditorUserId="6871" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T13:00:59.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:34:19.313" Title="How to maintain power windows to keep them from freezing stuck?" Tags="|maintenance|power-windows|freezing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12108" CreationDate="2014-08-31T19:13:31.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can apply car wax to the top/side weatherstrip - frost won't stick to wax. I don't like the fact that it automatically energizes the window, though; I've seen an awful lot of window &lt;strong&gt;bottom&lt;/strong&gt; weatherstrips destroyed when heavily frosted windows were rolled down further than about 1/8&quot;. You live in a climate very similar to my own, too. You may be forced to cover the windows with magnet-mounted fabric or plastic to prevent damage to that bottom weatherstrip - let the fabric or plastic collect all the frost, leaving the window clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T19:13:31.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7873" CreationDate="2014-08-31T20:59:54.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; that language in Exhibit 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Relays must be used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which indicates to me that you shouldn't tie the two outputs together (even through a resistor), but should use those two outputs to drive a pair of relays which will connect to the car's wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T20:59:54.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T22:12:08.753" Score="1" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a porter (car cleaner) at Chevrolet back in the 90's.  New cars came in with plastic wrap in the interior.  They did not arrive with &quot;new car smell&quot;.  That smell comes from the deep carpet cleaner we used on new car sells.  It took about 2 hours and two men to clean a new sell to perfection.   The carpet cleaner we used came in a white vat that was referred to as &quot;Gosh&quot; by the jefe.   Can this carpet cleaner be purchased?  I want to get the new car smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T07:19:25.603" Title="Carpet cleaner for new car smell" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12107" CreationDate="2014-09-01T06:31:32.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting battery is not the ultimate way to erase you ACU issue. Anyway, if the errors of your car should disappear that way, then you have a continuous problem. I suggest the steering wheel slip ring is broken. Check the error code fist. Maybe there is something else and DONT TRY TO FIX the airbag stuff BY YOUR OWN. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T06:31:32.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12107" CreationDate="2014-09-01T10:09:01.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the ignition to on, when starting the vehicle, the AirBag module sends testing voltages through the AirBag circuits. If any of the circuits have a fault, or any part of the system is missing, then the AirBag light is illuminated and stays on as long as the ignition is on. Removing the steering wheel AirBag to fit the alternative wheel should illuminate the AirBag warning light continuously if the circuits are not good. A primary checking routine would be to disconnect both terminals of the battery at the same time. Let the vehicle stand for around ten minutes, or more, with the battery disconnected. Now check all of the cable plugs on the steering wheel AirBag circuit. Disconnect them, spray with electrical cleaner and allow to dry. Reconnect all plugs and reconnect the battery. Turn on the ignition and check for correct operation of the warning light. If the light remains on, then the choice you have is to have a code reading by either buying a code reader for AirBags for your vehicle, or a local parts store/repair shop do a reading for you. The prime suspects in your case are plugs not connecting properly, or the vehicles 'clock spring' has become damaged and open circuit. This can easily done if when fitting the steering wheel parts, the steering wheel and the clockspring assembly are not exactly in the straight ahead position. When testing any part of an AirBag system you must not use an Ohmmeter. The voltage of the Ohmmeter can and will set off AirBags or ignitors by their voltage. You can substitute any part of the system by placing resistors in the circuit to 'prove' a components condition and reconnecting the battery  and turning on the ignition as usual. If you have to go this far though, you really should have a repair shop do the work. Here in the UK some shady used car dealers have been taken to court because they used resistors in the place of new conponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T10:09:01.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12080" CreationDate="2014-09-01T10:38:36.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicles symptoms can be put down to several causes. A lot of 2003 - pre 2004 - Peugeots had end-of-run compoments of OBD1 vintage. You need to have a scan with a Peugeot Planet compatable scanner as a very first step. As GrandMa had the vehicle for some time she must have had a garage she used and had confidence in, perhaps you should use that garage. Most of the guff you hear about garages is just that - guff. I deal with many garages around the London(UK) area and they are all hard working honest and skilled tradesmen. With safeguards such as AA/RAC/CSMA membership, Small Claims Courts and not to mention The Office of Fair Trading, rogue garages have a hard time to exist. Costs of ownership of your Peugeot, doing 10000 miles a year, all in, would be around £50 to £75 per month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T10:38:36.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12081" CreationDate="2014-09-01T10:56:07.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers you have had so far only go to show just how important a scan by an experianced mechanic is. The scanner will show if a cylinder is misfiring, or a particular cylinder is not firing - misfire count feature. The injectors can be seen to be firing and their operation on acceleration - opening durations and fuel pressures. You can do a balance test precisly and determine cylinder condition. On top of this you will have fault codes, that allow you to investigate areas the engine ECU thinks is wrong - back door coding. Multimeters are extremely useful with your vehicle, but most if not all can be better seen on an oscilloscope or graphing scanner because of the speed of operation and low voltages - milli volts and milli amps. In passing, because of power and switching diodes, 'testing' of pencil coils cannot be tested effectively other than by wave forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T10:56:07.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12108" CreationDate="2014-09-01T11:02:58.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you live in an area of the world that has extremely cold weather, your vehicle supplier may have something on his shelf for just a situation. Here in the UK we see this type of window, Peugeots and VW's in particular, but do not seem to suffer this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T11:02:58.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12093" CreationDate="2014-09-01T11:20:12.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleeding brakes by pumping the pedal by foot is old technology, and is not really suitable for vehicles fitted with ABS systems. The ABS system will have solnoids and their pistons, together with accumalators, which all hold brake fluid and can be air. To 'flatten' and evacuate these components requires pumping the pedal 40-50 times, and is not always fully effective, before pumping by foot. The way to bleed ABS brake systems is with a pressure bleeder, a scanner(or other tool) to activate the ABS system pump. The system is then bled nipple by nipple in sequence whilst operating the ABS pump whilst a nipple is open. Anything else can leave the accumalators with trapped air in them and not allow a solid brake when the servo is vented of vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T11:20:12.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12108" CreationDate="2014-09-01T11:20:26.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put some WD-40 onto a rag and wipe the seal area with it. The &quot;WD&quot; stands for water displacement. When applied, it will keep the moisture off of the seal so there will be nothing there to freeze to the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T11:20:26.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12104" CreationDate="2014-09-01T11:28:37.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to have a significant amount of used oil, you can sell it back to the re-cyclers. Some garages use used oil in burners to heat their workshops, some garages will dispose of the old oil for you. At the end of of the day though, used oil is just used oil and should be disposed of responsibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T11:28:37.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12124" CreationDate="2014-09-01T12:54:59.700" Score="-3" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is claimed that a small unit installed in the fuel tank can save fuel 20-30%. The basic principle is reducing loss of volatile compounds via negative charged air. I really doubt the principle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) To my knowledge, high voltage or radioactive material are needed to ionize air, but neither of them is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Even without this device, the loss of volatile compounds can be up to 20-30? It does not make sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the result of our test shows that it seems working. For a same route, 19 Liter gasoline is needed without the device and 12 liter gasoline is needed with the device. This is only one test so there must be some uncertainties. But I am really curious will it really work and if it is worthwhile to test more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6872" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T23:14:45.403" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T01:32:32.530" Title="Fuel saving devices, working or not?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11960" CreationDate="2014-09-01T13:31:26.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar problem with my 2005 Kia Spectra5. However, I know the problem. The wire coming off the alternator to the fusible link is damaged. I need to replace it. Depending on the positioning of this wire, I may or may not get ANY power to my car. I'm going to replace this (hopefully today). As a side note, the fusible link is a likely candidate for your issue. I had to replace mine two months ago. I think it blew due to the damage of the wire leading to alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6873" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T13:31:26.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12102" CreationDate="2014-09-01T15:32:07.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;LoJack can only be installed by authorized installers. The price of installation is fairly consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OnStar and other similar services offer a similar feature set, but are not necessarily as secure. OnStar now offers an aftermarket upfit system that can be installed into any car or truck (not available for motorcycles/scooters, while LoJack is). A &quot;specially trained&quot; dealer is required to install the OnStar FMV system though. It is much cheaper than LoJack, but my understanding is that all the electronics are in the special OnStar rear view mirror, so it would be very easy for any thief to simply rip the mirror out and throw it on the side of the road while leaving with your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, LoJack has a one-time cost, while OnStar has a monthly fee. The $695 price is the standard LoJack fee, and all dealers are required to sell it at that price, as I understand. If a dealer is charging more for it, they are overcharging, and you may wish to consult LoJack directly about that quote. The LoJack module is self contained and does not interact with any of the vehicle wiring. All the installer does is find a reasonably good location, generally behind an interior panel, remove the panel, install the module, verify it works, and replace the panel. It needs to be checked very 2 years or so, to have the batteries replaced if need and such, but otherwise the $695 cost is a lifetime of service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastEditorUserId="6599" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T15:41:15.973" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T15:41:15.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-01T16:24:49.527" Score="2" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. For almost 2 years now, when I try to start the car it results in no sounds from the motor - this happens about 5% of the time. The other 95% it starts on the first try. The radio and lights turn on fine, but turning the key results in silence from the motor - at first. After about 5-15 minutes of continuously trying to start the car it finally starts with no problem. By continuously trying to start the car I mean turning the key from OFF to START and randomly it will start up normally. After I finally get it running, if I turn it back off and try again it starts fine. This happens in hot or cold weather. It is usually from a cold start, but I think it has also happened while the engine was still warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you need any other information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6874" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:57:02.420" Title="Turning Key Results In No Sound, Rarely" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12120" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:07:32.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, in UK government departments I worked in and for, we tested all manner of claims for such like devices and others on all sorts of vehicles. None of them proved in the least bit viable. The only differance that could be accounted for was that drivers tended to drive more considerately(less fuel consumption) in the vehicle knowing that they were there and had cost them money. It really is in the mind. The tractive effort required to move the vehicle will always remain the same, as will the calorific value of the fuel, which provides the energy to overcome the tractive effort. The only truly effective fuel saver I know of is a block of wood under the throttle pedal :-). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:07:32.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12123" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:14:19.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a poor, loose or corroded connection in the system. Ignition switch, starter cables, starter solonoid, starter motor, battery and earth cables all need to be checked. It is one of those jobs that you will solve at first examination of the system, say by a wiggle test, or time is needed to pain-stakingly check every point of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:14:19.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12105" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:25:58.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ther are many faults that this can be caused by. A scan on your vehicles engine and transmission would be a good first step. You can try revving the engine whilst stationary and with the e/handbrake applied and the vehicle in 'Park'. If the engine will rev up into the 6000 RPM range you will know the engine is OK. If you cant achieve a high rev, you may have a speed limiter kicking in because of an engine fault, or a seized stator in your transmissions torque converter. Scans first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:25:58.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T00:47:24.330" Score="5" ViewCount="1624" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was young, I was told to always use hand car washes (or better, to do it myself) rather than machine car washes. The reason given was that machine car washes destroy the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence of this, my car often goes for over 6 months between washes, simply because dropping everything and driving out of my way to a hand car wash isn't exactly the highest priority in my schedule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, is getting a machine car wash every week going to cause significant damage to my paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6876" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T15:24:07.260" Title="Do machine car washes destroy a paint job?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T05:48:45.607" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my car for over 7 years &#xA;Rebuilt transmission and fixed many things over the years&#xA;put to much money into it. I really need help and dont know what to do ...&#xA;I have a 1995 Honda Civic Dx...automatic &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car Over heats and does not want to go over 35 mph / 40 mph when over heating &#xA;also has a burn smell no mater how hard I push on gas it does not wanna go over... seems like brakes also get hard to.. I do know there is a burning smell coming from power steering pump Fluid when I open the lid to smell it ... issue does not happen much at night always in the day time when temps are really hot.... Does anyone know what is causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6878" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T09:35:21.440" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T11:04:13.050" Title="1995 Honda Civic dx Overheats and does not want to go over 35 mph when overheating also has a burn smell" Tags="|honda|civic|smell|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2014-09-02T08:29:53.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They could for a number of reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is very dirty, for example, some heavier dirt is likely to be on the paint; if its not removed properly before (with a water stream for example), when the dirt gets &quot;brushed&quot; the brushes will move the dirt around possibly creating small scratches all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an old car (or any car with a weak paintjob) the brushing could be too strong and infact ruin the paintjob by creating small scratches or removing small parts of the paintjob in dangerous spots (corners for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it can happen that if the previous car was very dirty, some of the dirt remains on the brushes, and again it can lead to dirt being brushed around and scratching the paintjob. Sure, we are talking about very small scratches eventually but every run they become more noticeable, especially under sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'd say that type of wash is okay if the car is not so dirty and you know a reliable washer. In your case, if your car gets reasonably dirty (not wasted but dirty enough to have a wash) over a week you should be able to use machine car washes. Examine the paintjob closely afterwards and if you start noticing small scratches then stop immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that scratches are far more noticeable on darker and metallic paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T08:29:53.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12136" CreationDate="2014-09-02T08:49:18.560" Score="7" ViewCount="16892" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a very noob question to ask. But I recently got this car and was used with 92 octane petrol. However, to my negligence I overlooked the user manual which states to include 95 octane petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, will it cause a problem if I fill the tank with 95 octane while it is quarter full with 92 octane petrol? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my on-line research and returned empty handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastEditorUserId="12816" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:19:09.467" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T00:33:24.770" Title="Switching to a higher octane" Tags="|fuel-system|octane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:02:36.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any abrasion to your vehicles paintwork will over time flatten its shine. It can be happen more quickly and made worse, as illustrated by 'Andrew P'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T09:02:36.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12129" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:15:12.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds very much like a fault with your water pump seizing, as it comes across as temperature related. A quick check by your favourite mechanic should tell you more. The power steering fluid will have a 'sort of pungent smell' as normal, which can easily be confused with being 'burnt'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T09:15:12.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12131" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:35:42.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, adding the 95 to the 92 in your tank will not cause any real problems, in the short term. Once you have used the tank full you can carry on filling up with the recommended 95. Modern engine ECU programming will adjust the timing of your engine, knock sensors, to minimise or prevent engine 'pinking' caused by the lower octane fuel. Pinking can and will cause engine damage, and can be identified by a rattling from the engine, especially under acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T09:35:42.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12131" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:02:09.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing 95 octane gasoline with 92 is perfectly fine. In fact, this is what many gas stations do in order to offer their mid-grade product. For example, many gas stations in the United States offer 87, 89, and 91 octane gasoline. The 89 octane gasoline is a 50-50 mix of 87 and 91 octane gasoline. Mixing grades of gasoline will not harm your engine as long as the mix calculates overall to satisfy the manufacturer's minimum octane specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6882" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:02:09.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12152" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:10:43.780" Score="8" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning how to ride a motorcycle on a Suzuki Gladius SFV650, with a V-twin engine. But I also had the chance to ride a Kawasaki ER-5, which has a parallel twin engine (550cc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the Gladius is more impulsive than the ER-5, as if its engine provided more jerky torque. I asked my instructor if it's because Gladius's engine is larger (in terms of cc), but he said that although engine volume plays a role, the main reason is that the Gladius has a V-engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Are V engines generally less smooth than in-line or flat engines? And if so - why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the Wikipedia article on V engines, but I didn't find an answer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the Gladius uses fuel injection, whereas the ER-5 has a carburetor. May that contribute to Gladius's &quot;jerkiness&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2023-11-15T17:39:40.150" Title="Why are V engines less smooth?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:59:14.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue ended up being a bad gas cap. When the mower starts to sound like it is dying, I simply unscrew the cap for a few seconds and it kicks right back in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will replace it eventually but it has been running for 2-3 months now without issues as long as I let the tank get some air every 10-15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure cleaning the carb &amp;amp; replacing the carb gasket, filter, and old gas/oil helped as well but the main culprit was the cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:59:14.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12127" CreationDate="2014-09-02T15:24:07.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to manage a machine wash and I can tell you that the good ones do not hurt your paint at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they did, they probably wouldn't be as popular and prominent as they are, eh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reputable machine/tunnel wash is inspected every half hour to an hour for debris, the brushes are washed down several times a day, and the tunnel/bay is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grime, and debris each morning and night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said: Never use a self-service wash bay, as people will use the body brush on their wheels and tires, and you then in turn get their brake dust and road nast rubbing all over your paint, leaving scratches and gashes in the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6884" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T15:24:07.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11970" CreationDate="2014-09-02T18:10:57.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check inside the boots on your steering rack. With your vehicle properly supported on jack stands, remove the wheels and take a pair of pliers and squeeze the clamps on the outer collar of the inner tie rod boots on the rack and slide a small pocket screwdriver or something similar CAREFULLY between the tie rod and the boot collar to see if there is any fluid residue inside the boot. There should be none at all. If there is any amount of fluid the outer seals are leaking and should be replaced. It should be dry or very close to it inside the boots. The seals can be replaced without changing the rack (I have done it myself) but you will be hard pressed to find a mechanic that will do that because it's faster to just change the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T18:10:57.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11669" CreationDate="2014-09-02T18:22:51.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen many a Ford engine burn thru the boot on plug wires and coil-pack boots. After driving like this a while they appear to have exploded or melted out. If it is a coil wire, replace the wire and the spark plug (all of them if they are due!). If it is a coil-on-plug style ignition, Ford recommends, and so do I, to replace the coil and boot and plug (again, all plugs if they are due) to properly correct the issue. Having fired thru the boot to the block adds stress to coil packs that will make them fail prematurely. &#xA;I highly recommend using Ford/Motorcraft parts for the ignition system. Aftermarket parts have to high a failure rate for me! It's cheaper to do it right once than many times the cheap way.&#xA;Also, clean very thoroughly the plug well for any oil or debris. This can cause carbon fouling making it fail repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~Jonathan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastEditorUserId="6811" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T00:49:58.327" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T00:49:58.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T18:32:50.457" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of repainting my Volkswagen matte black in hopes that it would need less maintenance, wash-wise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic told me that a matte paint job won't show spots from hard water and that it will occasionally need to be dusted, but won't need heavy cleaning as much as a my current glossy paint job does. When I asked about having to wax, he also told me that this won't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Does having a matte paint job greatly reduce the amount of paint maintenance required for a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6876" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:01:33.097" Title="Does a matte paint job stay cleaner longer?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12144" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:01:33.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that is not true. A proper matte paint job will show hard water spots, and will still need washed and waxed regularly to maintain quality. It still has a clear coat. Hard water will still leave mineral deposits on the clear coat, and will reflect the light, the same as they would in clear coat on a glossy paint car. You may notice them less easily though, as the paint is less reflective, underneath the clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An improperly painted matte paint job (without a clear coat), will probably require more maintenance, as any rocks hitting the body on the highway, water, or sap from trees, for example, will directly damage the paint. Fixing that will mean sanding and touching up the area with more paint. Direct water exposure may also cause the paint to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both forms of painting will also be susceptible to UV damage. Wax helps protect against this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/chemicalGuys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chemical Guys&lt;/a&gt; has several videos on YouTube which discuss protection for matte and other paint types, as a matter of advertising their products. The videos are informative, regardless of which products you use. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veDOnXW4ArY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Protect Matte Paint&lt;/a&gt; for example, has info and demonstration on a matte black Aston Martin V12 Vantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:01:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:02:49.010" Score="2" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the clutch and flywheel on my 2008 350Z with a JWT aftermarket combo.  The dealership also replaced the slave cylinder.  Now, from time to time it is very hard to shift into first or reverse, and I have to depress the clutch almost all the way to shift to any gear.  In addition, 1st-3rd gear grind loudly after shifting.  The service center claims all of this is normal with an aftermarket clutch, but I'm concerned that they are only trying to justify a half-@$$ job.  I wanted to get some more opinions on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6886" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T20:59:22.203" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:59:22.203" Title="350Z Grinding in lower gears following clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder replacement" Tags="|nissan|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:33:40.560" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;How could you possibly know that the helmet had never been dropped from the moment of its manufacture until it came into your possession? Even once you do own it, can you really be sure it's never been dropped while you weren't looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I mean to say is that if it's not safe to use a helmet after it's been dropped, there's a good chance everyone is wearing unsafe helmets. So may as well wear it until you can get it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:33:40.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11576" CreationDate="2014-09-02T19:37:49.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-stroke bikes don't usually have a fuel meter. The premix is adjustable by the rider and your mileage may vary, so not much point in putting one on, since it wouldn't be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:37:49.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12146" CreationDate="2014-09-02T20:38:38.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To test the throw on your clutch: Press the clutch pedal down to the floor, slowly, and take a careful note of the resistance you feel on the pedal. At about 7/8 of the way down you should feel the pedal go slightly less resistive. This is the 'throw over' of the diaphragm spring of the clutch pressure plate. If you can not feel this lessening of the pedal resistance you can adjust the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder. The push rod comes out of the master cylinder and has a locknut and thread on it, it is attached to the clutch pedal. Loosen the locknut and lengthen the pushrod by turning it to the right as you look at it. Give it a couple of turns and try the clutch for throw-over again. Adjust as necessary. You might know someone with a manual clutch car to get a comparison feel for a good throw-over. You dont need to have the engine running when doing the adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:38:38.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12123" CreationDate="2014-09-02T20:57:02.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a problem with the neutral safety switch (NSS). Next time this happens, leave the switch to the on (or even accessory) position, then put your foot on the brake, then move the gear shift lever down to neutral and try again. You may even want to try shifting it several times down to first gear then back up into park or neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you have shifted through the gears it does not eliminate the NSS as being the culprit. If it's bad, it's bad. I'm highly leaning towards the NSS as being the culprit, mainly because you can still use the radio and lights, but get nothing out of the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it were the starter itself, you'd hear the clunk of the&#xA;solenoid/bendix as it engages the flexplate, and not much else. The lights/radio would probably continue to work in this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it were the battery, you'd hear the clickidy-clack of the starter as it's trying to do it's job, but isn't able to due to lack of current and/or the lights/radio would quit when you try to engage it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, if it were a problem with wiring, your lights/radio would quit working when you turned the key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could possibly be the switch, but I'm doubting this, just from your description.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:57:02.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12139" CreationDate="2014-09-02T22:42:36.953" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;He is &lt;em&gt;mostly right&lt;/em&gt; and here's why ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an old saying about Harley Davidson Motorcycles. They call them the &quot;Milwaukee Vibrator&quot; because of they way they run. These engines are a 45 deg V-Twin engine (45 degrees is the angle between the two cylinders). In the HD engine, the two connecting rods attached to the pistons share a common journal or &quot;pin&quot; on the crankshaft. It looks like this drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B47iU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deal with this design is when combined with the 45 degree offset of the cylinders, it results in a minimum power pulse interval of 315 degrees. A cylinder fires, the crankshaft rotates 315 degrees while not under power, then the next cylinder fires, the crankshaft rotates another 405 degrees, then the first cylinder fires again, the crank has to rotate 315 degrees, etc. This leads to uneven power production and limits the amount of power it  can produce. Energy is lost between the second cylinder firing and the first firing again. This is why you get the pop-pop-pause, pop-pop-pause characteristic Harley noise. Since the power pulses are non-symmetrical, power/torque is produced at different times as the crank goes around. This causes power to feel off balanced during acceleration. It will seem to grab more at some places and seem to be slacker at other. This will be a lot more noticeable at lower engine speeds as when the engine speeds up, there is less time between the power pulses and is therefor less noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice I said at the beginning that your instructor is &quot;mostly right&quot; ... that's because there are other engine setups where V-twins may NOT be on same pin (or crank journal) and therefor can fire symmetrically and produce power at every 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Inline 2-cylinder engines can be setup like this very easily as well as inline and 90 degree V-4 engines. The inline engines can be built using a lot less mass on the crank shaft, which allows them to rotate more easily at a higher rate of speed (higher RPM) as well produce cleaner power, but they take up more space in the bike for the displacement they give. Since these types of engines fire symmetrically, you won't feel the power surge because the engine fires more consistently on each revolution of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T20:37:32.950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T20:37:32.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T02:56:57.183" Score="2" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should I have my bike checked out? My dealer said once a month. If that's the case, how much should I expect to pay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6667" LastEditorUserId="6667" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T03:44:03.167" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T20:23:39.517" Title="How often should I have my bike checked?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T03:42:23.613" Score="0" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1983 Toyota Hiace LH50 van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I speed it up to 60-65 kph the steering wheel begins to shake and when I lower the speed to 50kph nothing.&#xA;All I have to do to avoid the shaking is maintain a speed of 50kph or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced brand new tires and I have had the wheels aligned but it still shakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balance bar mount has broken - could this be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6889" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T08:37:54.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T06:11:32.517" Title="My van steering wheel shakes" Tags="|toyota|wheels|steering|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T03:58:42.133" Score="5" ViewCount="2607" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a 1999 Nissan Pulsar (N15) which lost power and died a few days ago. It was towed by the RAC to a workshop which diagnosed the Crank Angle Sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimated cost to fix is AU$700, which I am questioning but have not been able to find much information to support or discredit this estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with the CAS in the Nissan N15 Pulsars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is it located and how long does it take to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6890" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T18:55:01.737" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T18:55:01.737" Title="N15 Pulsar Crank Angle Sensor replacement" Tags="|nissan|pulsar|crank-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12155" CreationDate="2014-09-03T08:39:41.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is that broken mount - your chassis will be flexing, especially in a 30 year old van, so get that fixed first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be various other causes as well (bearings, suspension arms, stub axles etc) but you need to get to a solid platform first before trying to diagnose any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T08:39:41.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12154" CreationDate="2014-09-03T08:59:00.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally each bike has different maintenance schedules. You can find info about recommended schedules in the user manual of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that depending on the type of bike you can have very different maintenance. For example, the maintenance required on a 125ccm 4 strokes bike is very low and could be done on your own, while maintenance on a racing enduro bike can be much more frequent and harder!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the costs,  I can Tell you a scheduled check in my country (italy) ranges from 70 to 200 euros maximum, depending on the bike and if you go to a specialized/authorized dealer (usually more expansive). Other maintenance (for example chain cleaning,  brake pads etc) depends on the bike and how you ride and your actual effort in maintaining the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6602" LastEditorUserId="6602" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T20:23:39.517" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T20:23:39.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11177" CreationDate="2014-09-03T09:35:52.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda's Super Handling All Wheel Drive (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SH-AWD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SH-AWD&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuUaqFnsb2M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is a full-time 4WD&lt;/a&gt; system, available on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awdwiki.com/en/honda/#Legend_2004____&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Legend&lt;/a&gt; and Honda's luxury brand Acura (models RL, MDX, RDX, TL, ZDX).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars equipped with Variable Torque Management 4WD (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/Variable-Torque-Management-VTM-4-Explanation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VTM-4&lt;/a&gt;) fall somewhere in between. While normally FWD, they engage rear wheels on any acceleration and allow driver to lock all-wheel drive on low speeds and gears. VTM-4 has been used on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Pilot#Off-road_capability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Pilot&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Ridgeline#Honda.27s_AWD_traction_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Ridgeline&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T09:35:52.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12173" CreationDate="2014-09-03T22:49:46.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to diagnose an issue with my Mk1 Golf. The engine heats up when the car is idling or in traffic but cools down almost instantly when I start moving again. I would presume this is the electric thermo fan not kicking in but it is working. I'm assuming the pump is working too as the car cools when driving, so I can believe liquid is circulating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be a clog in system that limits flow when the cars idling? Would anyone know what could be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T20:33:04.543" Title="Engine temperature increases when idling though thermo fan is working" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|radiator|golf|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2014-09-03T23:05:36.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually found the issue: the fuel lifter pump was faulty. For those that dont know, the Mk1 has 2 fuel pumps - the main one underneath the car (or, on some variations, in the engine bay) and a 2nd 'lifter' or 'transfer' pump that sits inside the fuel tank and can be accessed by removing the rear seat. This 2nd pump's bearing were gone. The primary pump had enough power to run the car but I guess the g-force under braking overrided the fuel pressure provided by the single pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, replaced the lifter pump and all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T23:41:49.757" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T23:41:49.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11220" CreationDate="2014-09-03T23:09:17.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 jetta tdi, turbo went out at 109,000. now particulate filter is bad, cost near 1200 for just filter, timing belt kit 690 w/ water pump, recomended. Everything on this car is too expensive and doesn't make up for the saving of 40 mpi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6893" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T23:09:17.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12170" CreationDate="2014-09-04T00:29:58.493" Score="11" ViewCount="12312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1999 Chrysler 300M, V6 3.5L engine. I am about to start a water pump replacement repair. I've discovered that the water pump is driven off of the timing belt, rather than either of the two fan belts on the front. This obviously complicates the repair quite a bit. What is the advantage to running it off of the timing belt? Why is it designed this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T21:43:49.620" Title="Why would a water pump be run off of the timing belt?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|timing-belt|water-pump|timing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12165" CreationDate="2014-09-04T01:36:21.110" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main reason for this is convenience. It's an easy place to run the water pump. If you ran it out to a fan belt, it would be in the way of the timing belt while doing it, or it would be a really awkward mess trying to work around it. The second reason is for compactness. With the water pump stuck out of the way, it physically makes the engine shorter, which means it will fit in the hole which is the engine bay a little easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most overhead cam engines which run a timing belt use this method to propel the water pump. It has been done this way for a long while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, since you are in there replacing your water pump, replace the timing belt and any tensioners which may be there with it. No sense in having to take it apart in another couple thousand miles to get it done. This would be the same reasoning behind getting the water pump done when you do your timing belt. It's just cheap insurance and beats having to do the same work twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T01:36:21.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-04T06:25:18.403" Score="6" ViewCount="51372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 S-Type Jaguar. When I hit the door lock button on the remote, they lock, then they all open back up in a few seconds. I can't keep them locked. What is causing this? Can anyone help me? I can hear it locking them all, then it beeps beeps and they unlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6896" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T19:17:53.313" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T06:20:41.133" Title="Doors lock from fob, then unlock themselves" Tags="|electrical|locks|door|jaguar|s-type|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2014-09-04T07:41:21.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also advisable to ensure that there is no water or water droplets in the fuel tank and the carburreter as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6897" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T07:41:21.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12167" CreationDate="2014-09-04T09:08:10.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had central locking refusing to stay locked with several cars when any of the door sensors (or boot lid sensor, or even engine cover sensor) thinks its door is open - whether it's actually the case, or the sensor has jammed for some reason. This hypothesis can be checked by setting the interior lighting to the setting where it lights upon open doors. In most cases, opening and closing the culprit door/lid would solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T09:08:10.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12165" CreationDate="2014-09-04T16:16:42.087" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine safety.  If you lose an accessory belt driven water pump, you're likely to keep driving, thinking the &quot;oh, I just don't have an alternator&quot; while you're busy cooking your engine beyond repair (normally with no temperature notification/change, if anything it'll read cold).  When the water pump is on with the timing belt (or geared to crankshaft as is occasionally the case), if the water pump seizes and tosses the belt, the engine will shutdown.  Inconvenient, but rarely dangerous, and saves a very expensive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T16:16:42.087" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12165" CreationDate="2014-09-04T20:22:03.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Historically the water pump was at the front of the engine in close proximity to the vehicle radiator, when vehicles were mostly rear wheel drive. There is no real advantage with todays vehicles but they continue to be at the front of the engine. Using the timing belt to drive the water pump lends itself to compactness at the front end of the engine. Some special purpose vehicles have remote or supplementary water pumps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T20:22:03.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12162" CreationDate="2014-09-04T20:33:04.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two main things that would happen to engine with results as you describe. Easiest to check is the thermostat. The thermostat has a pin coming out of it which locates into the thermostat housing. The location of the pin breaks off and allows the thermostat to float, causing erratic temperature control. The second item is the water pump impeller. They are made of plastic and sometimes come adrift, or slip on their shafts, or even break up entirely causing poor water circulation. One tip, when filling the system with coolant, remove the slightly higher heater hose and fast idle the engine. (You can catch most of the water into the removed hose.) Keep the hose off, as such, until the water comes out of the heater clear of all air, then refit the hose. In passing my son went to Uni at Griffin Cold Coast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T20:33:04.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-04T23:04:26.050" Score="6" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;83 Mitsu PU Diesel.  Oil light on drawing .25 amps when key is off.  Key on the light goes out.  All other lights and gauges work as they should.   Light is off when the engine is running. It is killing the battery when parked.  Where would the idiot light get power when the key is off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6900" LastEditorUserId="6900" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T03:47:34.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T23:35:33.220" Title="Oil pressure light on when igntion is off and goes out when key is on and engine is not running" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2014-09-04T23:34:15.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the replies all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it was actually the pump. Whilst it was working the bearings were shot so it wasnt working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced and all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T23:34:15.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-05T00:51:06.223" Score="1" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 01 Saab turbo wagon automatic with approximately 120,000 miles on it. Has some heater issues that make for a miserable ride in the winter. Needs the heatbox replaced according to a mechanic, which would cost $1700 (10 hours labor). We did some brake work on it recently which was $400. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just feeling really nervous investing more than half of what we paid for it initially into a repair job. Is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6902" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T17:24:32.410" Title="2001 Saab 9-5 turbo wagon - worth fixing?" Tags="|heater|heat|saab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11080" CreationDate="2014-09-05T01:16:15.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem programming my 2000 Camrys (two different cars!) The instructions that finally worked involved the two cycles of 5x lock/unlock using the switch on the armrest console. I had to do it probably 15 times until I finally got it right! It is important to follow the sequence exactly and wait until you hear the system click/beep indicating it is time to punch the right buttons in the right order on the remote.The following instructions worked for me when I really concentrated and got it exactly right!&#xA;Hope this helps!!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Open the driver's side door of your 2000 Toyota Camry and leave the opened door unlocked. Close and lock all other vehicle doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Insert your key into the Camry's ignition cylinder and immediately remove it. Avoid turning the ignition while inserting and removing the key from the ignition cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 Use the power locks on the control panel of the driver's side door to cycle the vehicle through five locking cycles. Press the &quot;Lock&quot; button followed by the &quot;Unlock&quot; button. Do this five times, pressing the buttons at a steady, even pace. Quickly close and open the Camry's driver's side door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4&#xA;Press the &quot;Lock&quot; and &quot;Unlock&quot; buttons on the driver's door control panel to take the vehicle through another five locking cycles. Quickly insert the key into the Camry's ignition cylinder and turn the ignition &quot;On,&quot; &quot;Off,&quot; &quot;On,&quot; &quot;Off.&quot; Remove the key from the vehicle's ignition cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5&#xA;Wait for the vehicle's locks to cycle on their own, indicating that you have accessed the keyless entry remote programming mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6&#xA;Press and hold the &quot;Lock&quot; and &quot;Unlock&quot; buttons on the keyless entry remote for at least one second. Release the &quot;Lock&quot; and &quot;Unlock&quot; buttons, then press and hold the &quot;Lock&quot; button for two seconds. Note that the vehicle's locks will cycle to indicate that the keyless entry remote has been successfully programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7&#xA;Close the driver's side door to complete the keyless entry remote programming process for your 2000 Toyota Camry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7266682_program-remote-2000-camry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_7266682_program-remote-2000-camry.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6903" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T01:16:15.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12177" CreationDate="2014-09-05T08:52:44.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to give a direct answer, but my main concern with Saab is that the company does not exist anymore, so finding parts for them will get harder and harder as time goes by. That being said, a Saab is a really solid car and should serve you pretty well if you keep it in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sold the car as-is and added $1700, would you be able to buy a better car? If yes, then sell it. If not, then fix it or buy a blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T08:52:44.880" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-05T11:49:59.187" Score="5" ViewCount="11197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;strong&gt;BMW 318i&lt;/strong&gt; and the engine overheated twice so far while the &lt;strong&gt;coolant temperature sensor&lt;/strong&gt; is normal. &#xA;If we exclude the possibility that the sensor is malfunctioning, what problem would cause the sensor to read a normal temperature?&#xA;I have been told that the sensor would be normal if you have a water leakage in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6904" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T16:43:59.967" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T19:26:54.057" Title="Car engine is overheating while Coolant Temp Sensor is normal" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|bmw|318i|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12186" CreationDate="2014-09-05T12:04:40.143" Score="0" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 98 camaro T-top&#xA; 3800 V6 ,5speed live in Texas where people do 80-90mph normal. Also make 13-16 hour drives on a regular basis. Problem is @85/90mph in 5th gear it's going at 3000rpm ,not so kind on the gas. My idea was put in the 6speed from the corvette, my mechanic says it won't bolt up to the 3800 v6. So I need ideas for this vehicle, change bell housing and trans? Switch to the 4.3vortec and 6speed? Or would it be possible to just rebuild the transmission using the current housing adding a 6th gear? Vote for the best answer and opinions welcomed. P.s I would rather spend a few thousand in this car than buy a cheap rice burner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6905" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T17:59:01.953" Title="98' camaro customization for highway MPG" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12177" CreationDate="2014-09-05T14:53:09.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost always cheaper to fix than replace a car. However when faced with major repairs I always recommend two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second opinion/estimate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost analysis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a second opinion and estimate. In your case base on the information provided the estimate is really high. I am assuming the &quot;heatbox&quot; is the Heater Core Case if so that's about a 5 hour job, not 10, if heat box means the heater core or heat exchanger it's even less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are happy with the recommended repair and the estimate do the following cost analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you can sell the car for as is, plus the cost of the repair is more that what the car is worth fixed. Then it's not worth fixing, you lose money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sold as is it's worth $2000&#xA;If fixed it's worth $3000&#xA;Cost to fix is $1700&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sell the car you get $2000&#xA;If you fix the car you have an asset that's worth $2000 and you put an additional $1700 in it for a total of $3700. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that example you would be putting $3700 in something only worth $3000 so you loose $700 by repairing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the repair cost is $700 it would look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is worth $2000 as is, plus $700 for the repair, for a total of $2700. The car is worth (fixed) $3000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example you have a total of $2700 in something worth $3000 so you gain $300 by repairing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T17:24:32.410" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T17:24:32.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-05T16:55:31.903" Score="1" ViewCount="9399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a headlight problem on my Honda 125cc bike. My problem is that I don't have a battery on my bike and every time I connect a bulb, it blows up within 5 mins. As of this moment I can't afford a battery. I know the bulb is directly connected but I want to know that there is some way I can fix this issue. My mechanic said he'd try maintaining the current, but he blew up the taillight as well. How can I maintain the current?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6907" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T19:25:03.350" LastActivityDate="2018-08-11T07:57:12.433" Title="Headlight problem in my honda 125cc bike" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2014-09-05T20:09:18.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did some digging and managed to find a PDF of the entire wiring diagram for the 2014. I'll post a OneDrive link below for anyone who wants to download them. They also contain dashboard disassembly instructions and whatnot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amp Location: Right side of trunk. If you have the amp, it seems that the speaker wires are the same colors there as in the front of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constant 12V (Radio) =&gt; white/brown&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radio Ignition =&gt; HS CAN&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radio Illumination =&gt; HS CAN&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Amp Turn On =&gt; Purple/Red&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Power Antenna =&gt; green/purple&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FR Speaker + =&gt; White/violet stripe &lt;br&gt;&#xA;FR Speaker - =&gt; White/orange stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FL Speaker + =&gt; White&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FL Speaker - =&gt; White/brown stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RR Speaker + =&gt; Brown/white stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;RR Speaker - =&gt; Brown/blue stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RL Speaker + =&gt; White/green stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;RL Speaker - =&gt; Brown/yellow stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FL Tweeter + =&gt; Grey/orange stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FL Tweeter - =&gt; Green/orange stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FR Tweeter + =&gt; Violet/orange stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FR Tweeter - =&gt; Yellow/orange stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Center Speaker + =&gt; Green&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Front Center Speaker - =&gt; Grey/yellow stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Center Speaker + =&gt; Green/brown stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rear Center Speaker - =&gt; Violet/brown stripe&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left Subwoofer + =&gt; Green/purple stripe&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left Subwoofer - =&gt; Gray&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right Subwoofer + =&gt; Purple&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right Subwoofer - =&gt; Yellow&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://1drv.ms/1lMkryJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://1drv.ms/1lMkryJ&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the link to the PDF that I'm referencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T20:09:18.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12181" CreationDate="2014-09-05T20:18:27.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st, change the rear end gears. Your car may have 3.08:1 rear end gears (RPO Code: GU4) in it. If so, you can easily find some 2.73:1 gears (or complete rear end) for cheap. This will effectively lower the engine speed while in transit down the highway by around 12%. This will have a side effect of giving you a little less effective power/torque while driving at lower speeds, but that's the trade off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, you can do something like add a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearvendors.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gear Vendors&lt;/a&gt; overdrive unit. This option installs at the back of a transmission and mechanically acts as another overdrive (on top of the one you have). You wouldn't use this until you get to highway speeds, then it will dramatically drop your engine speed. I don't know exactly by how much (though it would be by more than doing the rear end gear swap). You'd have to get the drive shaft shortened in this instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either of these cases, you'd also need to recalibrate the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a huge emotional attachment with this vehicle, then you won't want to read my next suggestion. Sell it and buy a Camaro Z28 with the 6 speed in it. While this may seem counterintuitive (V6 v V8), I can tell you you can run at 75mph in 6th gear @ ~1600rpm. In my Camaro, I was pulling down around 25-26 MPG average on a 2800 mile road trip (mixed driving, but ~90% highway). I know of guys babying their LS1 4th Gen 6-speed Camaros to over 30mpg. To do so, the car needs to be well maintained while keeping light on the go pedal. Insurance will be a bit more as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot just take the transmission out and fill it with 6-speed guts. You could replace it with a 6-speed (Tremec T-56), but you'd have to find an aftermarket bell housing to mate it up, as well as figure out how you would do the clutch. I don't know, but would assume the input shaft on the tranny is a different spline than what is on your transmission. Let's just say mating the two would be of a large cost. Again, driveshaft work would need to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also replace your engine/tranny with one out of a Z28. To do this, you'd need to change out the K-member (engine cradle which also supports the front suspension), powertrain control module (PCM), driveshaft, front brakes, and probably the rear-end to a 3:42:1 ratio (RPO Code: GU6). You'd want to change out the rear or you'd be running about 1000 rpm @ 70mph ... definitely not optimal. All the money you'd have tied up in your little go buggy would exceed what it would cost just to purchase (after selling yours, of course) a Z28 of the same year. It just does not make fiscal sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-05-08T17:59:01.953" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T17:59:01.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-05T23:32:18.790" Score="2" ViewCount="5030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a 2005 Mazda 3 sedan.Its a nice little car, aside from the atrocious amount of rust on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rust originated in the wheel wells, and that's where most of the rust actually is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some pics of the rust spots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbiDH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NiMKN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eU2CG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passenger Side:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Efa6G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXqMs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4SE1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back Panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pq6LQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has gotten to the bottom, under the doors as well, all the way up to the front wheels on both sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQAEc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDFbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually a known problem with this model, mazda offered an extended warranty for it to 6 years, but the original owners never bothered with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda3carpet.com/mazda3_rust/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; an article I found that shows the common rust spots for this car and you can see, they mirror my car exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, My question is this: how much do you think I can expect to spend to get this fixed? It is really bothering me, and I want to get it fixed before snowfall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend more than $700 tops. &#xA;I haven't done any mechanical work in the past, so I don't think I should be taking something like this on as a DIY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6543" LastEditorUserId="6543" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T23:37:41.143" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T02:44:36.950" Title="Rust Repair Advice" Tags="|mazda|repair|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12189" CreationDate="2014-09-06T03:34:24.260" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the car, but I don't have the motorcycle. I plan to bring the motorcycle back home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum height the car can load is 40 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the motorcycle, from Wikipedia, the seat height is 29.7 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wonder if this CB400 motorcycle can be loaded into my 2003 Kia Sedona, or any workaround to make it fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2372" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T11:49:36.730" Title="Load Honda CB400 inside 2003 Kia Sedona?" Tags="|motorcycle|sedona|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12188" CreationDate="2014-09-06T11:49:36.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't fit inside, so I see as you have four options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option is not a good option, nor is it overall a &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt; option (read: try at your own risk). What you can do is to leave your back hatch open and put just the front tire of the bike there, with the rear tire still on the ground, transmission in neutral. Then get PLENTY of rope and tie the front end (forks and handle bars) of the bike in so it is solid and doe as not move. In this manner the bike trails on home behind you and you are on your merry way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second, and better option, is to pay someone some (or ask someone) to ride it to your home for you, and you give them a ride back to where they need to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third option, like unto the second option, is to have someone give you a ride to the bike, and you ride it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth option is to find someone with a trailer (utility or bike), and have them tow it home for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, options 2-4 are the better options here. Number one might work, &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt;, but I'd leave that option for the last, final, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;desperate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; option in your arsenal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T11:49:36.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2014-09-06T17:52:24.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old steam fitters trick. Heat and candle wax. Heat the bolt and push a candle against the bolt an threads. If you got the bolt hot enough it will draw the wax into the thread.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6909" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T17:52:24.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12195" CreationDate="2014-09-07T11:15:55.823" Score="3" ViewCount="1845" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CD6B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mikuni Carburetor Part No. 21100-13040&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that on the left side is the primary Venturi where air and fuel mix together. On the right side is the secondary Venturi. What is the role of the secondary Venturi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6770" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T20:39:40.597" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T20:39:40.597" Title="What does the Carburetor Secondary Venturi Do?" Tags="|carburetor|lancer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12175" CreationDate="2014-09-07T11:41:02.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try checking your Oil Pressure Switch in your Engine. If its faulty then you should have replace with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6770" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T11:41:02.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12193" CreationDate="2014-09-07T11:50:36.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The secondary venturi act as a second carburetor when there is a demand for more fuel. When an engine is designed the carb must be large enough to flow enough fuel and air for the entire RPM range. A single barrel (venturi) carb large enough for the higher RPM range may flow inefficiently at low RPM. A carb small enough to flow efficiently at low RPM may run out of fuel at a higher RPM. To get around this multiple barrel carbs were designed. The primary side allows for economy and efficiency at low RPM. The secondary side only flows fuel when the demand for more fuel is needed. The secondary side must be adjusted correctly so that it doesn't add the extra fuel to early. The result would be a over rich condition and a loss of economy and performance. The most common method to control the secondary is by vacuum or linkage. In a vacuum control a diaphragm keeps the secondary closed until the engine vacuum is low. This would occur when you load the engine (aka pedal to the metal) high rpm etc. Mechanical linkage type are dependent on how far open the throttle. As you depress the gas pedal, at a point the secondary side will progressively open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T17:33:01.847" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T17:33:01.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T16:28:35.737" Score="0" ViewCount="1151" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are  the possibilities of oil entering into coolant tank ? how to know it withoout seeing tank ? what need to be checked ? what precautions to be taken not reoccur the same trouble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;kishore&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6914" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T22:06:41.483" Title="possibility of oil entry into coolant tank of figo" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12196" CreationDate="2014-09-07T17:37:31.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If coolant and oil are mixing, it generally means one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) blown head gasket&#xA;2) cracked head&#xA;3) cracked block&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the oil dipstick to see if they are mixing. If so, the oil will appear milky and smell a bit sweeter than normal oil. You can also examine the coolant in the overflow tank. It will also be milky and not the normal proper green or reddish-orange color (depending on whether your car requires standard antifreeze, which is green, or dexcool, which is the orange color). It will also be milky, oily, and have a different smell. If you have no coolant in the overflow tank, then you definitely have a problem with coolant being lost (possibly burned off), and should have your car repaired straight away. Even when cold, there should be some coolant in the overflow tank. There should be lines on the tank marking what the level should be for minimum cold, and maximum hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T17:37:31.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12203" CreationDate="2014-09-07T19:17:29.333" Score="3" ViewCount="2777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 2000 BMW R1100RT and the previous owner told me the battery is 7 years old so I figure it's time to go.&#xA;I saw this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEBjekqUV9c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEBjekqUV9c&lt;/a&gt;  and the guy points out that the battery sits right next to the engine and gel batteries deal with the heat better, and the current battery is a gel battery.&#xA;I have a regular lead acid battery I was going to use (spare backup I keep around) but now I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to use it, if it's going to be right next to the engine.&#xA;Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T10:38:00.697" Title="Can I put a regular lead acid battery in place of a gel battery in a BMW R110RT?" Tags="|motorcycle|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2014-09-07T23:59:55.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the death wobble. The jeep practically bounced off the road one side at a time.  Turned out to be just wheel balancing.  Cheap fix.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6915" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T23:59:55.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12202" CreationDate="2014-09-08T01:33:24.213" Score="2" ViewCount="11954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace some fuel lines (from the injector control to the injector) on my 93 VW Cabriolet. The site that sells the lines has 2 options for the 'Injector Size': M10 x 1.00 or M12 x 1.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what either of these mean or how I can check to see which one my injectors are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:10:10.253" Title="What does 'M10 x 1.00' mean when referring to fuel injectors?" Tags="|vw|fuel-system|fuel-injection|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11882" CreationDate="2014-09-08T03:48:06.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed TDHofstetter's advice (partly) and I can now report that it is indeed quite effective.  I wet-sanded with 600, 1200 and 2000 grit sandpaper (my local hardware store had nothing in between or finer).  That removed the yellow discoloration and left the lenses smooth to the touch, but still a little cloudy.  I then applied the Mother NuLens polish, using their sponge tool on an electric drill, and then buffed with a microfiber towel.  That left them considerably clearer.  I didn't try any additional wax or finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go so far as to say they are &quot;good as new&quot;, but the light output is much improved.  They have gone from &quot;marginal for night driving&quot; to &quot;perfectly acceptable&quot;, by my personal standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it rather slow and tentative, since I have little automotive experience, but I was still done in under an hour, including setup, taping around the lenses, cleanup, etc.  The sandpaper cost $15 and I have lots of it left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mother polish claims to provide UV protection.  We shall see.  However, even if this has to be redone once in a while, it's a simple enough job that I think it still makes more sense for me than replacing the lenses, especially on an older vehicle like this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T04:00:21.033" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T04:00:21.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12200" CreationDate="2014-09-08T08:24:56.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metric screw dimensions&lt;/a&gt;. M10 means a 10 millimeter outer diameter for the bolt or whatever piece it is; M12 means 12 millimeters. The part after the 'x' is the pitch -- how many mm a thread is wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out which you have, you can measure the existing part with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calipers#Vernier_caliper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;calipers&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_pitch_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread gauge&lt;/a&gt;. You might also try calling your local VW dealer with your VIN handy; actually I'm surprised that the website you're purchasing from doesn't tell you which you need based on the VIN. You might look into that a bit more, or try another site or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T18:10:10.253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:10:10.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12198" CreationDate="2014-09-08T10:50:12.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical lead acid battery require occasional maintenance. As the battery is recharged the acid outgasses. It essentially evaporates. This gas is corrosive and an explosion hazard if it concentrated in an enclosed container. Many motorcycles utilize a covered battery box. They may also use a drain hose to remove any acid fumes out of the battery  and the battery box. A gel battery can offer lower maintenance and reduced outgassing. This is important if the battery is difficult to service or subject to high temperatures where the acid is likely to evaporate quicker. So the simple answer is yes it will work providing it is of the correct size (both physical size and amp rating). It may not last as long as a gel battery and may require more frequent service. Be aware that if the battery?box does not contain a vent tube you may see some corrosion in the battery box area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T10:50:12.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T12:04:24.190" Score="9" ViewCount="4731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had a small 1 Kg (2.2 pounds) multipurpose ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher in the car. It has finally expired and I'm wondering whether I should get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my region it is not mandatory to carry one and, I've heard several stories, that to put out a car fire, &lt;strong&gt;3 full extinguishers&lt;/strong&gt; had to be used. This makes me wonder whether a small 1 Kg extinguisher is even worth keeping in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I still have one? Are there occasions where it would help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6918" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T08:02:30.063" Title="Is it worth having a fire extinguisher in the car?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12205" CreationDate="2014-09-08T13:53:01.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were that important, cars would come standard with one. As it is, the only road-going car I know of that comes with a fire extinguisher as standard is the Porsche Carrera GT3. And that's only because it's a thinly disguised track car, complete with roll cage and barely legal tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't hurt having a fire extinguisher in your car, but you have a much greater chance of dying because the fire extinguisher brained you in an accident than dying in a fire caused by said accident (Unless you go through the trouble of securely fastening it somewhere that is both out of the way AND easy to reach in case of a fire). Cars very rarely burst into flame. And when they do, you'll have ample time to get out. And in any case, if the car burns out your insurance will buy you a nice new one instead of having the damaged one fixed, which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: most fires are caused by electrical faults. You can prevent this by ensuring that everything is correctly wired up and having the proper fuses installed. DO NOT bridge a fuse that keeps blowing. It's not the fuse that's at fault. Keep a bucket of sand in your garage (or wherever you park your car). It should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T08:02:30.063" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T08:02:30.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T16:50:04.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in search of wiring diagram of Saturn SL1 1998.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car does not fire-up anymore, and everything indicate that the interlock has stopped working which stop my car from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to remove the interlock, however I'd like to have the wiring diagram before doing this to avoid any further problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if anyone know any good web sites where are stored diagrams please post them as I searched a lot but couldn't find any &quot;good&quot; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : If you have any other idea how I could bypass interlock without removing it, feel free to post them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T19:40:47.853" Title="Saturn SL1 1998 Wiring Diagram" Tags="|wiring|saturn|sl1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T18:23:09.647" Score="0" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please let me know who the manufacturers of HDD NH3T-W56 Audio System are. This is the system fitted on my 2007 Toyota Raum and I intend to approach them for translation of the Japanese instructions therein. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6899" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:50:20.190" Title="Language Problem with Audio System on 2007 Toyota Raum" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12205" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:07:12.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel you would like to get a new extinguisher, I'd just suggest you get one to replace the old one. Buy a bracket to hold it down and mount it some place where you have easy access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I say this is because almost exclusively the fire extinguisher will not be used for your vehicle, but for someone else's vehicle. Will a 1kg extinguisher put out a fire? Maybe not, but it could give you enough time to save someone's life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only caveat would be if you can afford it, but extinguishers are not too expensive. Do as you feel as right, but how bad would you feel if you actually needed one and didn't have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T22:07:12.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12221" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:39:48.673" Score="5" ViewCount="2432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wondered about this one question for the better part of twenty years: why is there no option for you to set the air vent to split between face and defrost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, the airflow options on (nearly?) every car I've ever driven are exactly the same: Defrost, Face, Feet, Face/Feet, Defrost/Feet. I appreciate that some newer models have half-points between some of these, but there has never been a face/defrost, which would seem to me to be the most appealing option, especially for those in a cold climate. (Defrost/Feet is the second best choice on a winter morning, clearly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just on account of an arbitrary engineering decision that was made decades ago (perhaps to simplify some piping or electrics) and has just been perpetuated through inertia? Or is there an actual practical consideration why this does not exist? (I can understand how the vent system is not the most exciting feature to reengineer, but I would quite possibly buy a car with a face/defrost vent option.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does this option exist even if I haven't ever run across it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6923" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T23:16:53.897" Title="Why is there no vent option for combined defrost/face?" Tags="|hvac|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12167" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:56:12.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its happening all the time, then it wouldn't be the doors/trunk/hood just being open. There are a couple of scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;key fob is damaged,  button gets stuck,  or battery going out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sensor on the doors/trunk/hood is going bad, and its sending back an open signal (prevents you from locking keys in your car).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;electric lock module in doors is going bad, connector loose, or wires getting crimped.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Honda does the same thing,  but mine is the lock module in the front passenger door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T22:56:12.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12111" CreationDate="2014-09-08T23:38:59.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There wasn't anything I could find referenced to as &quot;Gosh&quot;. What most car dealerships are doing is steam cleaning, with pre treatments and a bunch of vaccuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use to help out at a used car lot.  What they did to reintroduce that &quot;new car smell&quot; to older vehicles was spray Windex on the carpet and vigorously rub (the boss called it burning in). While that might not be the best approach for longevity of the carpet,  it did work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some odor neutralizing products out that work really well,  provided you follow their instructions. One such product I have heard alot of good things about is Odoban (&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.odoban.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.odoban.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;), no I am not endorsing, selling, working or anything related -just passing information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T23:38:59.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8501" CreationDate="2014-09-09T01:26:50.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've found in several of these is that the motor itself is fine, but it's internal thermal fuse goes bad (becomes higher resistance giving less voltage to the motor).  I've even replaced the thermal fuse for a couple bucks and the motors then work like new.  I wouldn't recommend doing this unless you are familiar with soldering and electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6924" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T01:26:50.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2014-09-09T01:50:15.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could this be it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brRTDvCq0gI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube • Nissan D21 Front Suspension Mystery Rattle [SOLVED!] &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake caliper appears to be lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T01:50:15.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12090" CreationDate="2014-09-09T03:13:22.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time on the Mazda3 the blame is defective engine mounts,  they are too soft.  Its the upper mount that's the prevalent one. There are aftermarket replacements available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there are a few other things that it could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Massive air leaks,  check the EGR valve. It would be a good idea to do a smoke test on the intake and engine. The test will show any leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the MAF and the throttle body (Do Not Use Throttle Body Cleaner on MAF), disconnect the battery first. Check the wires, with it running wiggle the wires. When restarting don't touch the gas pedal and leave all accessory items off (a/c and etc.), the car will run erratic until the ECU  relearns timing and fuel maps. If car stalls restart until it stays running, without touching the gas pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pump issues. Electrical (a) and fuel pressure (b) test-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Check pump fuse. Check the voltage at the fuel pump (determine whether or not the charge that's leaving the fuse is getting to the pump). Perform a drop test using a voltmeter (Check to make sure that the power wire shows the full voltage and the grounding wire shows that it's grounded properly. If you show more than one volt difference, that means you've got a problem with corroded wires, or that you've got issues with the circuit on either the positive or negative side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Check fuel filter, resistance should be minimal. Use a fuel pressure guage and hook it to the fuel pump fitting. Rev the engine while checking guage. Let the engine warm up slightly, then check the pressure both at idle speed and at the rated speed listed in your pump specifications. If the needle doesn't move then the pump is defective. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clogged purge solenoid valve. Sometimes it sticks open and lets unmetered fuel vapors into the engine. This causes the computer to adjust fuel trims which affect the idle. It is hard to check the purge solenoid without a scan tool, because they don't typically fail permanently. Plug the solenoid and line, check if idle problem gone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Non-iridium spark plugs. Replace with correct ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to will the OBD reading clear the code,  no it won't. It will have to be reset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T03:13:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11992" CreationDate="2014-09-09T03:42:05.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axle nut is 27mm and the other side is hex head 24mm, this was on a 2002 - it should be the same from 2000 to 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confirmed axle nut size on friends 2001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastEditorUserId="6842" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T07:16:05.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T07:16:05.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T06:18:44.947" Score="1" ViewCount="4667" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time replacing a head gasket in the engine of a 80's (ish) Toyota Hiace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the replacement gasket all ready to go, but do I need anything else to go on it? Some of the older models needed &quot;Gasket Goo&quot; to seal any possible holes in the gasket before we bolt it back up again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6926" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T22:46:44.030" Title="Do I still need to use gasket goo? (Or something similar)" Tags="|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12211" CreationDate="2014-09-09T12:13:34.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the option exists in some models. E.g. in my 2002 Opel Astra, I can enable/disable any of the air channels on climate control independently from others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6daO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2002 Opel Astra climate control&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, there's one ventilation duct going upwards and one going downwards, like here on Suzuki Vitara ('00-'06 model):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCMIr.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCMIr.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Suzuki Vitara&amp;#39;s ventilation diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/22/fa/b9/medium/0996b43f8022fab9.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;autozone.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flap that controls whether the air from upper duct leads to defrost or passenger vents has no &quot;center&quot; position, it's pick one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But living in climate where most mornings start with demisting/defrosting, I rarely want to use the face vents at all. The warm air dries the eyes quickly and therefore causes drowsiness; heated seats are much preferable. 95% of the time my vents are directed to windows only; feet option gets added when feet feel really cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-24T13:12:27.840" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T13:12:27.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12219" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:28:57.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should follow the manufacturer's service recommendations for replacing the head gasket. The service manual should specify which additional sealant to use on the gasket, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:28:57.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:30:38.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should contact Toyota to get support for OEM installed equipment in a Toyota.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:30:38.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1536" CreationDate="2014-09-09T19:27:06.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;10kW for water pump?!! That sounds way too high!&#xA;Water pump draws maybe 100 watts, also more advanced cars uses electronic thermostat that bypasses water so hydraulic resistace is even less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also power steering pump draws less than 1kW at peak while you steer when car is stationary. When you are moving there are minimum resistance in hydraulic fluid since valve is open. Same is with AC when disengaged or alternator is at partial load. Normal electrical load at today car is round 300W when using daytime LED lights and efficient engine and other electronics. Alternator has cos fi of round 0.85 so it takes 15% to generate magnetic field in a rotor.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about AC but 4kW sound way to much. If this is right than car AC piston compressor is very inefficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have forgot that car has also an oil pump, air compressor for power brakes (only diesel), high pressure fuel pump (driven by a belt or sprocket), and that most of the power (10% of engine nominal power) is lost in the exhaust system due to flow resistance (silencers and catalist converters). Also don't forget that rubber belt is very inefficient method of transporting power and that it doesn't matter how good ball bearings you use, resistance is between wheel and rubber belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if all the consumers together takes 10kW engine would lose 15kW due to resistance in a belt. If you don't believe touch the belt when you'll return from the drive and see how warm it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6928" LastEditorUserId="872" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:51:36.300" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T12:51:36.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2014-09-09T19:50:20.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nengun.com/toyota/toyota-genuine-hdd-navigation-nh3t-w56-119269&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nengun&lt;/a&gt; shows the same model &lt;code&gt;NH3T-W56&lt;/code&gt; (but the web site says &quot;Toyota genuine&quot;. If that's true you should've asked Toyota for a help so I don't know if this web site is right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6929" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:50:20.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12219" CreationDate="2014-09-09T20:28:07.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the gasket you have: Is it shiny and lacquered? If the gasket is lacquered, you already have the sealant on it. The sealant/lacquer acts on engine temperature and the pressure between the head and block when tightening it down. If there is no lacquer, then you will find it good practice to apply a coating of 'thin' gasket sealing fluid. Sealant for head gaskets usually have the viscosity of an oil. Gasket Goo, whilst not familiar to me, sounds too thick for a head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:28:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12240" CreationDate="2014-09-09T20:39:03.133" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automd.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoMD&lt;/a&gt; useful for getting a rough idea of how much the repair might be around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I also want to know how actually trustworthy their estimate is. At least it'd be better if I can get to know how do they work out the estimate. They say &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automd.com/about-automd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair Cost Estimates&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AutoMD's Fair Price estimates are calculated for both shop repair and Do-It-Yourself, and are formulated for specificity using average labor costs for each zip code, hours to complete and AutoMD's proprietary real-time market pricing data on millions of vehicle parts - down to engine size and sub-model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not clear enough. How do they get components price / labor costs per types of work / in a specific region?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6929" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T14:06:29.807" Title="How does the online estimate website work?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12211" CreationDate="2014-09-09T20:41:33.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;De-Frosting is just that, and its purpose is to de-frost the front screen, usually, on a cold morning. It should be regarded on a safety first basis, seeing where your going. I assume the assumption is made that the driver is dressed for cold weather before getting into the vehicle. In this case the de-frost would be maximised on defrosting the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:41:33.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12227" CreationDate="2014-09-09T20:48:59.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Estimating systems on any vehicle that is unseen by a repairer can only be an estimate. Most of the well known offerings offer a useful estimate, but, be aware of &lt;strong&gt;E&amp;amp;EO&lt;/strong&gt;. (Errors and Exceptions Omitted). Most repairers will not be bound, quite fairly, by a third party estimate that has not been fully checked out by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T20:48:59.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12219" CreationDate="2014-09-09T22:46:44.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all head gaskets I have ever seen &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF EXTRA SEALANT&lt;/strong&gt;. I would highly suggest you &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; add any separate ANYTHING on the head gasket. Chances are it will spring a leak. Head gaskets are designed to to be a consistent thickness. If you apply anything to them, there is no way for you to humanly get that thickness even. It will be thicker in some areas than in others. When machining a head, it is measured in thousandths of an inch to ensure it is flat. By applying any type of sealant, you will promote warpage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I have ever seen where it is needed is on some aftermarket head gaskets in high performance applications which would usually be multi-layered metal ones. These might need a copper based spray which will help the metal on metal sealing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this said, if you have instructions telling to use some sort of sealant, then by all means, do that. I would assume, though, that if you had instructions telling you to do so, you would not have come here asking this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T22:46:44.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T04:33:41.027" Score="3" ViewCount="32436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Windstar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights (and parking/tail lights) intermittently come on (and off), even after the headlights are switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, after parking, I'll turn off the headlights and remove the ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the headlights will turn off as expected, but sometimes they stay on. If they are off, usually, within minutes, they will turn on, by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when this happens, they will &quot;randomly&quot; turn on and off a few times or more. This will be on and off every 2 to 5 seconds (sometimes more), but it is not consistent. Then at some point they will remain on. Sometimes the lights come on and stay on without flashing, and sometimes the lights stay off for a while, but then come on later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlight system is a &quot;standard&quot; system, meaning there is no feature to &quot;automatically&quot; turn the headlights on/off based on the ambient light level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue occurs day or night, and regardless of whether the ignition key is on or off or removed, and regardless of whether the engine is running or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlight switch is mounted to a small plastic panel that snaps in/out from the dash. I Popped this panel out, and removed the connector from the back of the headlight switch, and the headlights remained on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, when the headlight switch is turned on, the headlights remain on, at least that is what I have observed, but there may have been times where the flashing occurred with the headlights switched on, but I didn't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happened since I purchased the car used. It seems it was rare at first, but it happens all the time now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other oddities that I'm not sure of... It seems that sometimes, the parking/tail lights will come on but the headlights will be off, or the left tail light will be on, but the right tail light will be off. I can't be sure of this because it could have just been a matter of looking at one place or another while the lights were turning on/off, and thinking some lights were on and others were off. If this sort of thing is actually happening, it is rare because I have not been able to confirm it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I have a &quot;quick disconnect&quot; on the battery and I always disconnect the battery when I park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I troubleshoot this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6932" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T11:17:35.517" Title="How to troubleshoot headlights intermittently on and off with headlights switched off?" Tags="|ford|headlight|windstar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T05:04:33.600" Score="1" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake pad icon on my dashboard lights up and when i brought it to the shop they said i need to replace the rotor too.  my car has 29,000 mile only- is it right that i should replace the rotor this early? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:21:32.990" Title="do i really need to change rotor when mileage is under 29,000 miles?" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-09-10T07:06:53.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There exist a minimum for every kind of rotors. If this minimum is reached, you need to change your rotors, even if they look good and work well. Watch my video what could happen, if you don't change them &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8R58aN0dkk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If you are under the minimum, your rotor lost a lot of mass. They overheat more faster and produce structural damage. Breaks are the most important parts of your car, so don't try to save on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a good rims, buy ceramic break pads. They don't burn the dust into your rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T07:06:53.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12231" CreationDate="2014-09-10T08:32:13.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think to pull a fuse is easy, as disconnect the battery. Anyway, I think some relay is broken. That will explain, why it flashing randomly. Turn the lights on and pull the relays under the dashboard one after another, until the light are off. Replace this relay ( shop or maybe you see the same one at another place).Hope, that will fix your issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T08:32:13.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T10:29:03.187" Score="2" ViewCount="2824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at creating an advanced charger cooler setup for my car, can I use an intercooler as a charge cooler radiator? Or do radiators need some special coating on the inside of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Toyota MR2, so I was going to use my greddy side mount intercooler as well as a front mount radiator to cool the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3344" LastEditorUserId="3344" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T10:38:06.970" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:08:59.440" Title="Can I use an intercooler as a charge cooler radiator" Tags="|coolant|turbocharger|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T10:56:06.610" Score="2" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Audi A3 Quattro where each time I use the windscreen washer just for the back window the back passenger seats become wet.  There must be a leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I have to get this problem fixed - bit worried about the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoping to sell it next year - I know I have to get this problem fixed before hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice anyone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6935" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T12:24:31.717" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:33:11.123" Title="Leakage after using the back window windscreen washer" Tags="|audi|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12198" CreationDate="2014-09-10T11:59:26.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this from Craig Hansen of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hansensmc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hansensmc.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stu,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put in a acid battery, but most times the ABS system will fault on&#xA;cold mornings.  The BMW Gel battery doesn't normally doesn't have this&#xA;issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1149" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T11:59:26.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:58:52.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake wear does not always depend on mileage - for example a car used entirely in city stop-start traffic will wear out it's brakes quicker than one used entirely on highways, simply because the brakes are used a lot more per mile travelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be quite an emotive subject, with some people saying you should replace the discs (rotors) every time you change the pads, and others suggesting they only need doing when worn down - I tend to go more for the latter. Bear in mind that the minimum thickness is just that - a minimum - so if they are likely to wear below that before the next pad change, then they need to be done this time. The manufacturer's spec should list the minimum thickness for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to take into account potential other damage to the discs - if they are warped or show any signs of cracking, they need replacing immediately. This might not be obvious to your naked eye, especially with slight warping...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Watsche says, brakes are vital and must not be skimped on, so if in doubt, get them changed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T13:58:52.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12227" CreationDate="2014-09-10T14:06:29.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Their component pricing will be done in the same way your local parts store would do it - by looking it up on an online database. I'd presume there must also be, or they have created, a similar one for labour prices, probably by averaging the hourly rates charged by mechanics in each area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimated number of hours to complete a given job is usually given by the manufacturer in their official repair manuals - you'll often see them being quoted on this site. Obviously these are, as Allan says, just an estimate - but they'll be the same figures your dealer will use when quoting you for a job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T14:06:29.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12235" CreationDate="2014-09-10T14:08:04.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot use an air/air intercooler as a air/water heat exchanger. It's not necessarily that you will see any particular corrosion from filling an aluminum air/air intercooler with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water mix, but that it will just be horribly inefficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An air/air versus air/water system have different designs and materials. The diameters of the inlet/outlet are different. Stepping up a 1.5&quot; radiator hose to a 4&quot; air inlet, and then back down when going back into the coolant system, would create a very inefficient flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastEditorUserId="6599" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T13:08:59.440" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:08:59.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12247" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:06:28.063" Score="2" ViewCount="3339" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two days ago I got my &lt;code&gt;tires rotated&lt;/code&gt; on my &lt;code&gt;2005 Chevy Cobalt&lt;/code&gt; while I was getting an oil change. This was the first time that the tires had been rotated in at least 14,000 miles (since I purchased the car). The car itself has about 36,000 miles, so I'd assume that's the age of the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, whenever I go above 30 mph I hear a helicopter like sound, and it ramps up the faster I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's two videos I've recorded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/bb0gZGLJJ5M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/bb0gZGLJJ5M&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/Ol6MMqPVfgQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/Ol6MMqPVfgQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that it can be caused by waiting too long to get the tires rotated, as they start to wear into a pattern, which can cause the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3176" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T21:48:15.537" Title="Odd sound after tire rotation?" Tags="|chevrolet|tires|cobalt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12232" CreationDate="2014-09-10T20:21:32.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake discs/rotors, as with the brake pads, should be regarded as consumables. If you run your thumb nail across a rotor and you feel roughness or other wise grooving, replace them. Manufacturers give a minimum thickness for any given rotor. But a minimum thickness must be across all of the rotor. To arrive at this minimum thickness you must first re-surface the rotor, and then measure for minimum thickness. The rotors do not wear evenly. They may be thinner at the centre of the braking area, and ridged at the outer part of the braking area, with corrosion at the inner area. Cheaper and safer to just replace them. New pads have to 'bed-in' into the rotor that is on the vehicle. You will get full braking on the new pads sooner, with a little longer pad life, with new rotors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:21:32.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12236" CreationDate="2014-09-10T20:33:11.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The interior panels on the tailgate of your A3 simply pull off to expose the hose for the rear wash. You need to check the washer jet in the rear wiper arm is not blocked, and the hoses are intact as well. A blocked washer jet can dislodge the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:33:11.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2014-09-10T20:41:52.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge the reserve setting is for reserving that last bit of gas. If the bike starts to sputter, you're probably low on fuel,you can then switch reserve and have maybe another 50 miles of fuel left. I always set the valve to off if it won't be ridden within a days time. But the carb flooding is also a damn good reason to use it. Parking for a while won't result in a flood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6940" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:41:52.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12242" CreationDate="2014-09-10T20:45:27.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotated or swopped back to front? Check on the tyres side wall for the word 'Rotation'. There will also be an arrow or indicater for the direction of rotation when driving forward. They must be on the correct side of the vehicle and rotating in a forward direction. The age of your tyres can be found by reading the DOT code on the tyre wall. You will see the word 'DOT' next to a box with four numbers within it. The first two numbers are for 'the week of the year', whilst the second two numbers are for 'year of manufacture'. ie. DOT 2414 would mean twenty-fourth week of 2014, which is when the tyre was produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:45:27.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12242" CreationDate="2014-09-10T21:26:24.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will make more noise as well. The less tread, the more noise (usually). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T21:26:24.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T22:01:52.347" Score="2" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone knows what would be wrong with my cruise control in a Peugeot 5008. It works normally in 4th and 5th gear, but it doesn't want to work in 6th gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6943" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T22:28:21.890" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T19:26:58.410" Title="Cruise control not working in 6th gear on Peugeot 5008" Tags="|peugeot|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12250" CreationDate="2014-09-11T05:29:41.347" Score="2" ViewCount="1674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a doubt. Will the brakes wear out faster on light braking?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On heavy / hard braking, the tires stop faster, which means the brake pads are working for a lesser time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will this affect / increase brake life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the more we use, the brake wears more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6488" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T08:18:52.110" Title="Will the brakes wear out more on light braking?" Tags="|maintenance|brakes|braking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12249" CreationDate="2014-09-11T08:18:52.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not time that wears the pads off, it's friction. Effect of friction increases with temperature. Braking itself causes brake components to heat up, and cooling of brakes is quite limited. Heavy braking causes lots of heat to build up for which there isn't enough time to dissipate, so the pads will be softer from heat and wear more. In more severe cases, the heated discs/drums might bend out of shape under the tension, or melted pad material may stick to them; the uneven surface will then cause more wear on subsequent braking attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy braking also increases chances the next vehicle will collide into yours. Even though your expenses might be covered, is all the trouble and wasted time really worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light braking has to be started earlier, so braking lights will light up earlier, giving fair advance warning to the driver behind, and lifting the foot from throttle earlier also helps in saving fuel - your engine will be revolving on cars kinetic energy (manifested through engine braking, which also takes some load off brakes) instead of burning fuel or batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite often, when braking lightly well before a red light equipped with approaching vehicle sensors, the light will change just in time so that I don't even have to brake all the way to stop and then start off again, but instead can slide on just by slightly adding throttle again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Economical driving should be striving for smoothness.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T08:18:52.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12235" CreationDate="2014-09-11T09:14:30.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dobey has already told you why you shouldn't use an intercooler as a CC radiator. But let me add something more: a charge cooler does the same job as an intercooler. So instead of using a charge cooler fed by an intercooler, why not just use the intercooler to cool your air? It's what it was designed to do. If you're really worried about the air temperature, get a bigger intercooler or install water jets that will cool down your intercooler (I think the Nissan Skyline GTR had a system like this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what you're trying to do, but bear in mind that you can achieve the same power levels at lower boost if you have better airflow through your turbo. If you don't want to spend money on a new turbo, it could still be reasonably affordable to have someone install a higher flow compressor wheel in your current turbo. This could mean that you'll get the same amount of air at 24 PSI rather than 30, or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this approach because it means that you're not running your stock turbo outside of its efficient range, meaning it will last longer. If your turbo was designed to run at e.g. 15 PSI (1 Bar), it is highly unlikely that it will be able to tolerate much more than 20% more than that for long. By changing the compressor wheel, you allow more air to flow at lower turbo RPM and boost, keeping it within safe limits, while still making lots of extra power. Lower boost means lower intake manifold temperatures which in turn means you don't need extra charge cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T09:14:30.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11838" CreationDate="2014-09-11T11:04:11.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am done with adjusting. So, learned this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRX2V6_a3dc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRX2V6_a3dc&lt;/a&gt; googled about fuel trim (long term and short term). I monitored short term fuel trim and drive around in various conditions. short term fuel trim must be close to zero. Long term too. So, adjusted LPG parameters until short term was close to zero (+/- 5%) in various load conditions. &#xA;Short term i monitored via ODB2 connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T11:04:11.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-11T17:06:08.673" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the procedure/&quot;tricks&quot; to bleed the brakes on a 2002 Ferrari 575?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T17:41:27.273" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T20:07:52.213" Title="What are the procedures/&quot;tricks&quot; to brake bleeding a Ferrari 575?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-11T17:37:50.613" Score="6" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am debating &lt;strong&gt;whether to repair a very old car or buy a newer &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; car.&lt;/strong&gt; There is a particular newer used car I have easy/trusted access to, so I will use that as the example below...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The old car:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1989 Toyota Corolla 5 speed &lt;em&gt;manual&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;189k miles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lives in an area where rust is a serious problem. Has body rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In my state, a safety inspection is necessary, and it has failed. The mechanic said it needs $1,500 worth of repairs in order to pass. He also said it is a shame, because the engine is good and the frame is good. The repairs are things like brake lines, exhaust repair, headlight, and some significant body work that he will do with compound, as well as some other things (I did not get a written estimate). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car has driven well, but it is now about 25 years old.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; enjoyable driving experience:  the stereo basically doesn't work, it is drafty, the headlights are so-so, and it feels a little tinny to drive. I do occasional long (500 mi each way) trips with it. But it's also not horrible, and mostly serves quite well. My main concerns are reliability and keeping costs down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put maybe $$1,00 to 1,500 in it in the past year for various repairs, but often perhaps a bit under $1,000 a year in repairs. I have traditionally driven it only about 6,000 miles a year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's KBB value is probably about $500, but with the current rusting body, possibly less. I live close enough to another state that it is feasible to sell it used to someone there, and that state doesn't have the inspection requirement this one does. But there is a good chance I will only be able to sell it for scrap for about $350.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The used car:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 2004 Toyota Camry &lt;em&gt;automatic&lt;/em&gt;, owned by a trusted friend (a 60something woman). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;147k miles &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling for $4k. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt may never have been changed--we're checking on that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No visible rust, the paint shines, and her mechanic tells her the car is in great shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously a more comfortable car (good stereo, better ride, not drafty, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably a safer car (air bags, better headlights, newer technology).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally a few other factors I'm wondering about:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have always driven my cars into the ground and sold them for almost nothing to junkyards, but I'm wondering though if it is time to let this old one go now. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would never even consider buying a brand new car, and historically have bought cars for very cheap, around $1,500--$2k, so a $4k car is a big bump up for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This coming year is going to have many more very short (1.5 mi) trips than ever before, due to a move. I know that can be hard on cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have not owned an automatic in a while, and wonder if the possible down-the-road repairs to an automatic transmission could be something to really worry about. I have never even had a clutch repair in 11 years of driving the manual, as I am either really lucky or really easy on it the way I drive (I never ride the clutch, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I buy the newer Camry, I don't want to have to buy another car again for absolutely as long as possible. I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; like the process of buying cars at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm also very frugal, and although I can spend the money in either scenario, I would like to do the sensible thing, money-wise.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what's the right call here. Thanks for any light you might shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6948" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T14:18:23.893" Title="Repair very old car or buy newer used car?" Tags="|repair|corolla|used|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T22:54:29.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12253" CreationDate="2014-09-11T18:59:11.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ferrari use an analyser, SD2 or SD3, which has a procedure programmed into it for bleeding the brakes. The machine should be considered essential to do a proper job, and uses the ABS pump to fully flush, vacate and refill the braking system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:59:11.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2014-09-11T20:06:58.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes a bike easy to learn to wrench on is small size, lack of complexity (small total number of parts) and low expense (so when you break it you're not out a fortune) and low performance (so your amateur repairs don't risk your life at 100MPH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of the bikes you're looking at, cruiser nor tourer, are good to learn on. They are both going to be big and low to the ground, with exhausts that cover the engine and lots of electronics. Both styles have big engines (as a rule, although there are small-displacement examples for each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to use to learn on are scooters or mopeds, preferably vintage. The good news is they are $500, so you can get one and your cruiser for not much more than just the motorcycle. Second would be a pit bike or dirt bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T20:06:58.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2014-09-11T20:35:34.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing if the bike is 12v or 6v, assuming you don't want to buy a battery, get an LED bulb, they are less apt to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does the bike have a voltage regulator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastEditorUserId="6721" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T20:51:19.130" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:51:19.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9022" CreationDate="2014-09-12T08:19:08.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the answer of &quot;In asking you to check when the engine is hot, the oil will not be pooled in the oil pan. Instead, it will have been fully circulated to all the moving parts that badly need that oil to function. As a result, you'll be checking the oil reserve that remains in the pan.&quot; is utter BS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this because the next sentence in your owner's manual, that you neglected to mention, is this: &quot;Switch off the engine and wait a few minutes for the engine oil to flow back into the oil pan.&quot;  That sentence kind of dispels that notion that you're only checking &quot;the oil reserve&quot;, whatever that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you're checking it hot after waiting for a few minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the pan because hot oil expands in volume vs. cold oil.  True, the expansion is small, but VW must think it's enough to suggest checking the oil hot instead of cold, after an appropriate wait time to allow all the oil to drain back into the pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6955" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T08:19:08.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12270" CreationDate="2014-09-12T14:46:40.367" Score="4" ViewCount="223956" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;: 2000 Blazer 4WD Automatic 260,000+ miles &#xA;(Runs perfectly if not for something going wrong every two weeks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine sounds rough when accelerating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When accelerating there's a ticking/clicking noise (similar to a card on the spokes of a bike; like what children do)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check Engine light: 'Bank 2 system too lean'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When maintaining a steady speed it sounds completely fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue started yesterday driving home from work, I first thought oil as I hadn't checked it in about a week and a half, so I went home and added some. It's still doing it, bouncing between sounding really bad and moderately bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Master Brake Cyclinder &amp;amp; Distributor cap are around 2 weeks old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum lines changed about a month ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs and wires, air filter, oil filter, and oil change around 2 months ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of trying to clean the MAF sensor I'm not sure where to start for trouble-shooting this issue. Does anyone have any experience with these symptoms? Could it be the MAF Sensor, if not what else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the way up-town the Engine light went out and all I could hear was the clicking/ticking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I got back home and put it in park the clicking/ticking stopped entirely (even when giving it gas in park). I tried neutral after that and it was the same (no clicking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T19:15:17.663" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:18:41.193" Title="Rough Acceleration &amp; ticking noise" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|blazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12271" CreationDate="2014-09-12T17:34:24.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car with push to start.  To use it, I have to push down the brake and press the button.  However I've realized that occasionally I'll push the button and immediately switch to drive or reverse before the ignition process is complete.  This causes the car not to start and I have to just put it back in park and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is doing this bad for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6960" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T02:21:20.580" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T18:03:15.250" Title="Is it harmful to switch gears while starting?" Tags="|ignition|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12248" CreationDate="2014-09-12T19:16:49.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Peugeot cruise control is 'speed sensitive'. Sixth gear cruise control requires a road speed of 70-75 MPH. The gearbox computes the gear required to maintain a given road speed, if you select a gear to high for the speed you are doing cruise control is switched 'off', to prevent the engine from labouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T19:16:49.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12265" CreationDate="2014-09-12T19:38:59.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; for the car, but I don't think you are doing any irreparable harm. I don't think mechanically it is causing you anything major, but you are probably causing spark plugs to foul sooner, carb (I'm assuming this is an older vehicle since you didn't specify) is probably getting gummed up, and probably more along this line. This would be due to incomplete ignition and burn on startup of air/fuel mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to just pay a little more attention to what you're doing while starting. Your car will thank you for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T19:38:59.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:11:16.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a lean mixture under acceleration you are describing a noise known generally as 'pinking' - clicking as in &lt;em&gt;rattling&lt;/em&gt;. You need to check the vehicle for an air leak, (maybe a vacuum hose come off), oxygen sensor on bank 2 not working, or a knock sensor having failed. I would second place the MAF as this would produce codes to the effect of 'engine running weak' not just bank 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:11:16.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:24:55.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is probably one of several things wrong with your S10. I think @Hash_Brown is on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it might be an exhaust leak. It's amazing how the puffing of exhaust coming out where it's not supposed to sounds like a &quot;tick&quot;. This can also cause a lean bank check engine code to appear. This is because it will actually draw air in as well as the puffing out of exhaust. This has to do with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli&amp;#39;s_principle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bernoulli's Principle&lt;/a&gt; I believe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it could be a sticky lifter or valve. With as many miles on your truck as you have, this would not be out of the question. If the one or both of these are sticking, you could possible get it clear up with some &lt;a href=&quot;http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SeaFoam&lt;/a&gt; or the like. Following the directions on the can, you can add about 1/3 of the can to the crank case and run the engine up to temperature. This will clean out the gunk from the lifters and allow the oil to flow more freely as well as allowing the lifters and valves to move around better as well. These directions may be a bit off because I have not used it in this manner in a while, so ensure you follow the directions. You do not want to leave it in your crank case for an extended period of time. Nothing past 100 miles is what I've been told in the past I'm pretty sure. It can also be used in the gas tank to help free up noisy injectors. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I will warn you, doing this also cleans all of the carbon off of the oil control rings and out from the bearings and wherever else it may be hiding. While you may think this is a good thing, as engines get older and build up the carbon, it actually helps to keep oil usage at bay. When you clean these deposits out, it will actually allow your engine to burn oil and you'll have the tell tale sign of blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; possibly try a rocker adjustment, but I would bet this is not the problem. If you have a dead lifter (one which no longer springs back), adjusting the rockers will not solve the issue. This would require you replace the lifters. At your mileage, you'd just want to do a rebuild at this point, since you'd have the top end of your engine apart anyway. Once the lifters are set, they very rarely need an adjustment. I'm assuming you have the 4.3L V6 engine (I don't think they ran the S10 with a 4-cyl and 4x4). The 4.3L is basically a Small Block Chevy (SBC Gen I) engine with two cylinders cut off. To adjust these rockers, you do not use a feeler gauge. If you've never done it before, I would get a friend who has to help you so you'll understand, but here's the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove your valve covers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the engine so it is top dead center on the #1 piston on the compression stroke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both your intake and exhaust push rods should be able to spin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back the rocker nut off a full turn on your intake side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While spinning the push rod between your fingers, tighten your intake rocker until the push rod &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; stops spinning, then give it another 1/2 of a turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same for your exhaust rocker arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then do the same for the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 5 and 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 2 and 3 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When done, turn the engine over (by hand with a socket wrench at the crank) 360 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then do the same for the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 and 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 and 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Button the valves covers back down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/89o5rLpbCgI?t=1m6s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; as it is fairly decent, but shows a V8, not your V6. (I have timed the video to 1'6&quot; which is the meat and potatoes portion of what you need to be watching, but go back and watch the whole thing if you like.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third and ugliest is the possibility of a rod knock. I'm doubting this from your description. The noise would be a bit deeper in pitch than a tick, but it can show up sounding like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:24:55.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12265" CreationDate="2014-09-12T21:31:12.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will wear the engine internals more, as there is less lubrication. It's roughly equivalent to pulling the coil wire on a distributor and just spinning the engine for no reason. At that low of engine rotation speed, the oil pump is not providing sufficient oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also possibility to cause extra wear to the transmission, as you're shifting into gear before the engine is running, so sufficient pressure and flow has not built up inside the transmission yet either, though the engine is spinning. As the parts that contact catch on to one another, extra stress may be getting exerted on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T21:31:12.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T01:59:18.683" Score="5" ViewCount="221494" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tale that goes back about a year when I found my very first car. I needed it to commute back and forth to school. When I bought the car it worked great, everything I could have wanted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that soon changed when it began overheating, and to be specific it is a 2003 honda civic ex, automatic. I took it back to them after having to pay towing expenses. They said they didn't know it had issues (bull) they said it was due to a radiator, so they installed a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got it back it drove fine then it began exhibiting the same symptoms soon after. I decided since I loved the car I wouldn't even bother with the people I bought it from, big mistake and I should have just returned it...I didn't because I was sick of looking for a car and school was about to start. This began the routine of having to fill it with antifreeze everyday before and after class, if I didn't it would most certainly overheat and then I'd have to blow hot air all day. So I took it to another mechanic who figured it must be something wrong with the cooling system and said the fan was acting slow, so he replaced the fan-switch and thermostat and said that it wasn't the water pump. I was hoping this would do it, but it did not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then tested the head-gasket twice and it came back negative. Then they tested the catalytic converter, came back negative. This mechanic, then proceeds to tell me the people who sold it to me may have put a sealant in which gummed up the engine and is clogging things so it can't function correctly, or put on the head-gasket wrong or any number of things to the engine. Although, wouldn't this still make the head-gasket test fail? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He tells me I may need a new engine because to figure out if it truly is an engine problem that would cost as much as a new engine. I don't know what to do or where to go I am at a loss here. Spending my money just to have mechanics tell me there is some mysterious &quot;undiagnosable&quot; problem with my car is the most frustrating thing ever. No one can fix this car it seems. PLEASE I beg anyone who knows how to figure this mysterious problem out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T09:37:57.960" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:59:11.210" Title="The mysterious overheating honda civic" Tags="|honda|civic|cooling-system|head-gasket|overheating|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2014-09-13T08:43:31.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your question, you have an intermittant fault somewhere on the cooling system. The way forward would be to replace the engines thermostat, making sure the new thermostat is a genuine Honda part. Get on the net if you have too, but make sure it is a genuine Honda part. The next step is an 'Extended Road Test'. The ideal test would be for your mechanic to drive your vehicle, perhaps over a weekend for a good number of miles, and if the fault occurs he would have first hand knowledge of whats going on. He would know exactly what happens as the fault develops. Intermittant faults can be the very hardest of faults to determine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T08:43:31.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12277" CreationDate="2014-09-13T14:44:06.293" Score="2" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with the coolant light going on for few minutes after running the car from a cold engine and then it would turn off by itself. I took it to the mechanic and they added coolant and, while in there, I also put some premium gas from a pump that I have been so far using its 'plus' grade. Then aftewards I noticed that the engine struggles and makes a muffled noise when accelerating. The noise is more apparent when on low speeds specially on uphills; you can feel that there is an strain on the engine. Also since then the engine heat up very fast, but the coolant light hasn't come up again. The mechanic says there is probably something wrong between the engine and the exhaust but they don't know what it is and they suggested I take it to a BMW service center but that is not an option for me since there is non nearby and I can't take the car on the road in this condition for long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any suggestions that you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6966" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T05:27:16.823" Title="BMW | Engine Struggles and Overheats" Tags="|engine|bmw|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12276" CreationDate="2014-09-13T14:48:12.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet your mechanic is probably near the issue. I'm betting your catalytic converter(s) is/are starting to be plugged. You'll probably notice over time that it will become increasingly more difficult to get the car to perform. You'll have to engage the gas pedal further and further to get the desired results. It will get to a point where the engine will not exceed 1500-2000 rpm without wanting to sound like it's dying. If this is the issue, the only real fix is replacement. Depending on the year, this may be covered under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T14:48:12.003" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2014-09-13T15:03:58.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are losing coolant (you say you have to add coolant daily), then there are only two places it can go. Either on the ground or in the engine. Check your oil to see if it's a milky color. If it is, then the oil and coolant are mixing and you will need the engine rebuilt. If not, then you probably won't need to replace the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, does the exhaust smell sweet? Is it extremely humid when exiting the exhaust tip? Is there any white smoke from the exhaust? If so, the coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber, and being burned off. This indicates a problem with the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any coolant on the ground? You should be able to pretty easily determine where it's leaking, if there is such a leak. Check the passenger floor to see if it's very wet. Is the air very humid when you have the defrost on hot to help with cooling? If either of those is true, the heater core would be the area to look at repairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T15:03:58.487" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12280" CreationDate="2014-09-13T17:33:55.160" Score="1" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bulb in my front right turn signal/parking light bulb in my Honda Accord 2003 is out. This is the orange light above the main headlight on the passenger side. I found the instructions for how to change the bulb in my owner's manual, pp. 315-316, but I cannot seem to find what bulb I need to buy. I was hoping to only need to do the process one time, as it appears slightly complex for what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find what the necessary bulb is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6968" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T17:44:45.047" Title="What bulb is in the front right turn signal/parking light bulb in a Honda Accord 2003 Sedan?" Tags="|honda|headlight|accord|lights|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12279" CreationDate="2014-09-13T17:44:45.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I see, the bulb is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modifiedlife.com/2003-honda-accord-sedan-car-light-bulb-size-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1157A&lt;/a&gt;. These are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; standard bulbs and can be picked up most anywhere (Walmart, AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly's, etc). The &quot;A&quot; in the identification indicates it as an amber bulb. You can find the 1157 which is the same exact bulb without the amber tint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T17:44:45.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T19:12:20.070" Score="1" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driver brake light does not work. Bulb is good. Tried it in other side. Socket is good. tried it in other side. Tail light Assembly shows 12 volts. Brake light will not work. All other lights work. Help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6969" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T05:37:13.060" Title="2002 Dodge Durango brake light" Tags="|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2014-09-13T20:07:30.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chrysler 300, dismantle plastic pieces around shifter, you need Phillips two scews forward top under thin cover, take whole thing out, now you see side of gear selector mount, toward u you see cable behind that &quot;pink thing&quot; get screw driver behehind that nudge forward, E break on!..with other hand get her out of park while nudgeing pink thing forward, that is a lock and it is useless anymore, peace:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6970" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T20:07:30.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T21:29:35.570" Score="3" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derbi_Senda_50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Derbi Senda SM 50&lt;/a&gt; 2005 plate. It has a good spark, however, it's not reading any compression. It's had a new top end and gaskets! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it starts when you bump start it, but then it will just die! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6972" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T16:09:02.640" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T18:04:52.960" Title="Derbi Senda 50cc - Low Compression, will not run properly" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|two-stroke|derbi|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T23:10:19.350" Score="1" ViewCount="2396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 96 Camry starts first time every time then stalls after 10-20 seconds?  Last year it ran fine but rarely would stall @ running speed.  I had to set for 2-3min before it would start then it ran fine.  If I tried to start it immediately it started then stalled within 2-5 seconds.  Ran for months without issue now won't stay started @ all.  Local mechanic replaced throttle position sensor (with used one) and the igniter?  Checked fuel pump, OK! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6973" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:36:28.783" Title="96 Toyota Camry won't stay started" Tags="|engine|electrical|toyota|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T03:40:34.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-14T06:14:27.300" Score="2" ViewCount="193518" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car overheated and I was only able to put tap water in the overflow I noticed once I parked my car the overflow water inside  started boiling.  Is that because I needed to add 50/50 coolant.  Do u think that would prevent it from boiling when it gets hot?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6974" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T06:51:43.857" Title="my cars water overflow tank starts boiling after I drive a short distance." Tags="|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12294" CreationDate="2014-09-14T08:55:43.030" Score="6" ViewCount="74480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that I can use RTV silicone instead of a regular rubber gasket as an engine seal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this feasible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T03:04:45.990" Title="Can I use high temp RTV instead of a gasket?" Tags="|engine|gasket|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12288" CreationDate="2014-09-14T13:03:51.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what gasket you are choosing to replace, and on what engine, but for some small number of gaskets on some engines, it is possible, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should almost never do that, and should always use the gasket. Some gaskets also require using RTV or other sealant compounds in small amounts at certain spots on the gasket, such as at contact points where the two mating surfaces are not exactly flat (humps in oil pan for front/rear main seals for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T13:03:51.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2014-09-14T13:08:01.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding more water than coolant will decrease the boiling point, yes. Tap water is also bad as it has many minerals in it, and can cause corrosion if too much is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the system is pressurized and should not boil unless the engine has reached around 260F degrees, under normal conditions. If your engine is getting that hot, additional damage may have been caused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant is not actually boiling and what you see is simply bubbling in the overflow tank, you almost certainly have a blown head gasket. The bubbling is due to pressure from the combustion chamber being relieved into the cooling system through the leak in the head gasket. You should get it repaired as soon as possible, or further damage may result. You will continue to lose coolant, and the engine will not run as efficiently as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T13:08:01.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12281" CreationDate="2014-09-14T15:13:32.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have cabling passing through a rubber boot from the body to the tailgate of a vehicle, the continual flexing of the wiring whilst opening and closing the tailgate can cause some of the wires in the cabling to break. Pull back the boot on your tailgate and if you find any of the wires seperated simply splice them back together. Same colour to same colour of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T15:13:32.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12286" CreationDate="2014-09-14T15:18:46.483" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it that your mechanic hass scanned the vehicle and found no faults. These sort of problems can point to the transpnder in your car key, or the transponder in the steering coluum or its wiring. At the very worst case your engines ECU immobiliser may be on the way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T15:18:46.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2014-09-14T16:07:51.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Coolant' from a dealership or accessory shop is 50% distilled water 50% antifreeze, as you may know. Using distilled(de-ionised) water removes any contaminants that would promote corrosion in your engines cooling sysytem over time, which gives the 'coolant' a longer service life. It has no effect on the boiling temperature of the coolant which remains at 100 degrees centigrade. Raising the system pressure by means of your radiator cap will raise the boiling point by the rate of +1 PSI = +1.5 degress centigrade. On some global hot regions, engines are run on distilled water without antifreeze. The over- heating you describe may be caused by a water leak in the system, a faulty thermostat, a faulty water pump, a blocked radiator, a collapsed hose, air in the system, or a faulty head gasket. You may need to have a repair shop look it over. Use coolant or 50-50 antifreeze mix to protect your ehgine from freezing in cold weather. A 50/50 mix will prevent freezing down to around -30 centigrade. Using either less, or more, then a 50/50 mix will increase the freezing temperature. ie 60AF/40W will freeze at -25C as will 40AF/60W. (You can't make a cup of tea on the top of Mt Everest as the lower atmospheric pressure boils water at 85C :-) &lt;em&gt;I am English&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T16:07:51.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12288" CreationDate="2014-09-14T16:17:35.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no. RTV silicon is a great modern sealant, but must be used in the knowledge that the sealant can block oil ways. It can destroy catalytic convertors, if it becomes diluted by engine oil contact, to the point that it gets left on the cylinder wall during combustion and ends up in the exhaust stream. Oxygen sensors can also be destroyed by being coated in silicon residue. Use only as directed, and replace a gasket with a gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T16:17:35.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-14T16:45:12.300" Score="2" ViewCount="3500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Royal Enfield Bullet (std) 350cc 2013 uce model. The bike is fitted with a 35/35w HS1 PX43t halogen bulb. I want to replace it with a 60/55w halogen H4 bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier I had installed the self start motor on the bike so the battery has also been changed from 5Ah to 14Ah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to install a relay, or rectifier and new wires? Will the H4 bulb fit in the existing holder? What are the other things I need to consider before installation? So that no harm is done to battery or electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6976" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T17:53:20.807" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T17:53:20.807" Title="requirements upgrading of headlamp from 35/35w to 60/55w on bullet 350 uce" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|royal-enfield|enfield-bullet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12288" CreationDate="2014-09-14T18:07:04.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is feasible, but not advisable. It mainly depends on where the gasket is you are replacing. Many engines today utilize formed rubber gaskets which are reusable and specific. There would be no good way to put the forming gasket material in place of this preformed gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many places the RTV can be used on the vehicle. Usually it is used to help seal a solid gasket, or to keep the gasket in place during assembly. It should not be used as a replacement for the gasket, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T18:07:04.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12285" CreationDate="2014-09-14T19:55:16.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any internal combustion engine needs three things to run: fuel; air; ignition source (spark). Almost always, air can be assumed as being present. You should check the other two things, those being the spark and the fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug and check to see if you are getting spark through the wire. You should see a spark coming from the wire if it is held close to the head of the engine, then spin the engine over (two person operation). Be careful because you can get shocked doing this if not careful (though if you are shocked, it won't harm you, but you will &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; know there is spark). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get spark there, check the spark plug as well by pulling the plug, connect it back into the spark plug wire, ground the plug at the head and rotate the engine. You should see a spark over the gap. If you don't, it's probably the spark plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the spark plug and smell it to see if you can smell gas on it. If it's there, you know you are getting fuel. It could be that the carb isn't doing it's thing correctly. Too much or too little fuel will cause you issues. Running ethanol laced fuels does not help this, either. The ethanol tends to gum up the carb. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T19:55:16.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T00:03:06.353" Score="0" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damn thing snapped while I was taking it off, no idea what it is and can't quite seem to find out on google for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvDoX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes from the front valve cover to the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phoEV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6686" LastEditorUserId="6686" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T01:02:18.403" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T09:19:33.743" Title="What hose is this? (2000 lexus es300 w/ 1mzfe VVT-i)" Tags="|engine|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12311" CreationDate="2014-09-15T00:43:45.713" Score="0" ViewCount="25989" Body="&lt;p&gt;The questions says it all.  Does a 2010 VW Jetta S (2.5 L gasoline engine) have a timing belt or chain?  Please reference where you got this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5114" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:46:26.423" Title="Does a 2010 VW Jetta S (2.5 L gasoline engine) have a timing belt or chain?" Tags="|vw|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12301" CreationDate="2014-09-15T01:33:29.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a chain. It should be the same as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartslib.com/2008-volkswagen-jetta-2-5l-engine-cylinder-head-components-parts-diagram/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008 2.5L L5 VW engine&lt;/a&gt; ... #18:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBILf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T21:46:26.423" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:46:26.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T08:18:42.670" Score="0" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latch in my car console is broken. When I have checked the dealer they tell me I have to change the whole console. That costs around $300. I am looking to fix it using some glue. Has anyone tried to glue some plastic parts before? Which type of glue will be better for latch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6622" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T21:45:04.467" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:45:04.467" Title="Latch of cup holder in main console broken" Tags="|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12300" CreationDate="2014-09-15T09:19:33.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a crankcase breather to me - just allows air (and oil vapours) in and out of the engine - it goes to the inlet inboard of the filter to prevent the vapours being released into the atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T09:19:33.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12285" CreationDate="2014-09-15T09:26:35.250" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you're not getting any compression, that explains why it's not running - you just need to work out what's causing the lack of compression. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've already replaced the top end and head gasket, the next suspect would be the piston rings letting the gases into the crankcase - though this usually results in poor compression rather than no compression at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I have heard to test this (although I've not tried it...) is to pour a small amount of diesel into the cylinder, and watch to see how quickly it drains out - if it is quick, the rings have failed. Don't try and start it while the liquid fuel remains in the cylinder though - if it doesn't all drain, siphon it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T09:26:35.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12295" CreationDate="2014-09-15T09:33:04.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3093439&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; on a motorbike forum suggests that an H4 bulb will fit in an HS1 holder, but that the bike in their question has a plastic lens that could melt - yours may be the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the alternator have enough power to run the higher-wattage bulb and recharge the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always use a relay when upgrading or adding lamps, Halogens work much better when they have the full voltage and current available to them, and using a relay and good quality suitably rated wiring reduced the losses involved. Always use a fuse as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T09:33:04.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2014-09-15T12:41:57.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total agreement with dobey.  Coolant doesn't just disappear.  It either goes on the ground (external leak), in the passenger floorboard (heater core), in the engine oil (head gasket), gets burned up (head gasket, or possibly intake gasket), boils off, or it stays put.  I won't address any of the stuff that you've done, but I will add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: compression test your cylinders.  If you have one that is much lower than the rest, you need a head gasket.  You can &quot;borrow&quot; these for free at AutoZone, or similar parts stores.  A bad head gasket can let water in the engine to be burned, but also pump compression into the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: does your coolant have brown gunk in it?  This is a sign that a sealant was used, and could be making the problem harder to diagnose.  A gunked-up thermostat could let the engine overheat, and boil the coolant out through the radiator cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Steam from the exhaust is normal, but only while the engine is warming up.  If your car has been running for 30 minutes, there shouldn't be any steam coming out of the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Some cars have very specific bleeding procedures to remove all the air from the cooling system.  If your car has a bleed procedure, you need to follow it exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: is there any steam coming from the engine compartment?  It's possible that there's an external leak on the exhaust that is burning up the coolant before it hits the ground.  When your engine is hot, pop the hood and look closely for any steam coming out while the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, the coolant is going somewhere.  Find out where it's leaking and you will solve your problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastEditorUserId="6980" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T12:50:19.800" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T12:50:19.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12303" CreationDate="2014-09-15T13:16:21.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular super glue works well for abs plastic.  If that doesn't work, epoxy also works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T13:16:21.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2014-09-15T16:59:45.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 70cc honda scooter that did the same thing.  The voltage regulators on some of their bikes were pretty screwy... the lower the battery voltage, the higher the output voltage from the gen.  I measured mine one time without a battery at over 20 volts output!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution is to get a battery, or try to find a more appropriate voltage regulator.  When I looked I never found any off the shelf that I could just bolt on, and I was going to make one, but then I sold it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a battery make sure to maintain the voltage with a charger when not riding it for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T16:59:45.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12301" CreationDate="2014-09-15T17:05:34.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a chain. There are two, as the matter of fact, upper and lower. Relevant parts (chains, tensioners, guide rails) can be purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Engine/227/11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;individually&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Engine/274/6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as a kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, indication of that could be found in owner’s manual. Chains usually do not require maintenance, whereas belt replacement would be noted on in maintenance schedule somewhere around 150-200k km (100-125k miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T17:05:34.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T20:18:45.907" Score="3" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have issues with the parking sensors on my wife's S-max (2007). The sensors would occasionally beep (constant beep) after turning on the car and selecting a gear. I tried cleaning them, but I noticed that the paint is pealing away in the process. After removing the paint the beeping seems to improve, but the sensors started looking quite bad (they are in some metalic colour). How can I fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T14:58:32.373" Title="Maintenance of parking sensors" Tags="|ford|sensor|parking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4859" CreationDate="2014-09-15T20:40:52.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that one man said his problem was the exhaust hanger grauments. you can get them online really cheap. but he said the dealer will charge you an arm and leg to change them. Im going to try this first. he said he changed all motor mounts and it was the same then he changed the exhaust hangers and the vib was 100% gone. let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6983" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T20:40:52.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:11:05.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only used CVT fluid. I did a change at 150k then did another change at 180k. I read a lot about once you change the fluid the detergent can break down the build up and then it destroys your transmission. So the second chance it to allow for the break down slug to be drained out. At that time I also swapped out all the plugs. Now I have 330k and I am doing a plug change, coil change and will do a transmission change followed by a second 30k later. I have done almost nothing to my car. Its a 2006 civic hybrid. Still get 40mpg going 80 mph on the freeway. Also only use Mobil full synthetic changed based on the cars CPu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6984" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:11:05.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:16:54.957" Score="1" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a van with the 3.3 in it. It will start in the morning to go to work sometimes die on the way and restart. It also will not start when the motor gets hot it will turn over but not getting any spark. Leave it sit for a few hours and it will start back up. I changed the coil, spark plugs and wires, and the cam shaft sensor. Don't Know what else to do please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6985" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:12:22.307" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T19:28:15.867" Title="1997 dodge caravan won't start when motor gets hot" Tags="|electrical|starting|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12315" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:57:36.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the fuel pump actually. It might be getting too hot, causing it to not put out the proper pressure. The only way to test this (that I'm aware of) is while it's running. You'd have to put a pressure gauge on it (at the rail) and check the fuel pressure while running. You'd then need to leave the gauge in place, somewhere you can see it while driving. People I have talked to have somehow taped it near the windshield so it can be seen with the hood closed. Looks stupid, but gets the job done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; You do not want to have the gauge in the passenger compartment with you just in case it were to spring a leak for some reason, you'd have gasoline all over the inside of your vehicle as well as the possibility of a fireball ... not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you engine quits, you'd need to ensure you can see what the gauge is doing. If the pressure slowly lowers to much lower than what it is when the engine is running normally, this could be your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:57:36.177" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11134" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:59:56.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally took the car to a shop. It turns out that the problem was the charcoal canister, which needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4376" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:59:56.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T22:00:44.253" Score="2" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was caught in the flood that we recently had about a week ago in west phx, az. My car starts, runs, but in the flood my car got water in the oil pan, tranny, so I gave it an engine flush treatment, changed spark plugs, changed engine oil, tranny oil, n thought I could change fuel filter withouth having to change fuel pump.  Not podsible! Anyhow my car starts, runs but runs like if trying to get or Its not getting any fuel pressure going through the gas line. Itll let me drive it upto 6 or 7 miles then when pressing gas car wont move especially if going uphill. What could be causing this to happen? What can I do that I havent done to fix this problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6986" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T14:18:25.670" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T14:18:25.670" Title="00 honda accord ex 3.0 coupe fuel pressure problems" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|accord|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11995" CreationDate="2014-09-16T06:51:31.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll bet its your regulator/rectifier...  I had a 2009 DL with same symptoms.  Took it to the correct mechanic, who diagnosed it due to a product recall on the reg/rec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link to the recall in Australia... 2008 - 2009 bikes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/1000722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/1000722&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T06:51:31.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12331" CreationDate="2014-09-16T10:46:50.340" Score="2" ViewCount="7946" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is it different from an ordinary transmission? Is that a comparatively newer technology? If possible also add a few examples of motorcycles and cars which use claw shifting mechanisms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Googling did not help much.&#xA;Thankyou..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:41:38.450" Title="What is a claw shifted transmission?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="69723" CreationDate="2014-09-16T12:50:37.713" Score="1" ViewCount="1697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mk1 VW Golf/Rabbit with K-Jet mechanical injection. Occasionally when I pull up at stop lights the engine idle will rhythmically dip and climb (between 600 and 1200 rpm). This probably happens 1/6 times I stop and it doesnt seem to matter what temperature the engines at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car feels and drives fine otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think this might have something to do with a vacuum leak but if that were true I would assume the problem would be consistent and not happening randomly. That being said, I am pretty sure the brake booster is knackered so their might be some issue there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the idle control valve either as the car has no air-conditioning so nothing drawing large amounts of power at idle (is this what the IAC valve does?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this and what I should be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:20:45.187" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T01:13:03.140" Title="Mk1 VW Golf/Rabbit - Engine idle fluctuates at random times" Tags="|engine|vw|rough-idle|golf|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:43:16.520" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;First Start of my A/C is good but when my evaporator is cold, my A/C Goes On and Off Rapidly. On for a second then Off for a Second.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3rw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mechanical AC Temperature Slider&quot;&gt;&#xA;Does it have to be the Mechanical Temperature causes the problem?&#xA;Is there a way to repair this thing. If no luck, is it necessary to replace with another Mechanical Temperature Slider Control?&#xA;By the way, its a Mitsubishi A/C from a Lancer (CB1A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6770" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T16:16:43.257" Title="A/C Issues with a Mechanical Temp. Control" Tags="|ac|hvac|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12318" CreationDate="2014-09-16T15:25:46.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Paulster2, it's very probably that you have water trapped in your exhaust.  After it runs for a few minutes, is there any steam coming out of the tailpipe?  A little steam is normal after first start up but after the engine warms up it should stop.  If you have a never ending source of steam you can take apart the exhaust system and dump it out (or if you really don't care, poke holes in the low spots).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really think it's a fuel pressure issue you can buy a gauge at pretty much any auto parts store and check the pressure off the fuel rail.  It's also possible you have some water in your gas tank, and that's what's causing it to bog.  The solution then would be to siphon out the gas and put new in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:25:46.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12325" CreationDate="2014-09-16T20:40:12.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PCV Valve Assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle Air Control Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many autoparts stores will help you swap out simple parts like these at the store itself, but obviously I would call in advance to ensure that they'd be willing to help first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go through those three things, I'd recommend taking to car to a shop and having them do a smoke test on the system to see where else there may be leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6772" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T20:40:12.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12323" CreationDate="2014-09-16T22:02:50.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I'm seeing, it's actually called a &lt;em&gt;shifting claw transmission&lt;/em&gt;. I got this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-biking-discussion/26247-what-claw-shifted-transmission.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a shifting claw transmission for a motor vehicle including a main shaft and a countershaft and an electric motor for rotating the countershaft or being rotated thereby with freely rotatable gear wheels supported on the counter shaft and engageable with the countershaft by claw engagement structures, the speed of the countershaft is adjustable by the electric motor to be close to, but somewhat different from, the speed of the freely rotatable gear wheels to be engaged in order to facilitate shifting but avoid a tooth-on-tooth problem which would inhibit shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US7992459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;patent&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you google &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=claw+shifted+transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shifting claw transmission&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see a bunch of options on the use portion, but it appears it's used mainly on small motorcycles. At least that is what my cursory glance gave me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read down inside the patent, it explains the reason for the motor spun countershaft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a shifting claw transmission for a motor vehicle including a main shaft and a countershaft and an electric motor for rotating the countershaft or being rotated thereby with freely rotatable gear wheels supported on the counter shaft and engageable with the countershaft by claw engagement structures, &lt;strong&gt;the speed of the countershaft is adjustable by the electric motor to be close to, but somewhat different from, the speed of the freely rotatable gear wheels to be engaged in order to facilitate shifting but avoid a tooth-on-tooth problem which would inhibit shifting.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor's main purpose is to spin the countershaft. While spinning it, it ensures the speed of the countershaft is a somewhat different speed than the main shaft. This allows the gears to mesh without the need for a synchronizer (or synchro for short). Further it explains: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Utility vehicle transmissions with shifting claws have a long service life and a high level of reliability because there are no frictional synchronization means which are subjected to wear. Furthermore, shifting claws are more cost-effective than blocking synchronous rings. The problem which is associated with omitting blocking synchronous rings, is that, in rare cases, the shifting tooth or claw arrangements of the shifting claw clutch can be in a tooth-on-tooth position preventing shifting, particularly when the vehicle is not moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is it cheaper to produce than a synchro transmission, it should also last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T20:41:38.450" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:41:38.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T00:12:46.173" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;can I replace p245/65r17 tires on my 2013 toyota highlander,  with 255/60r17 tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T07:08:16.773" Title="2013 Toyota Highlander tires" Tags="|toyota|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12332" CreationDate="2014-09-17T00:22:40.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. But the tires are 0.5&quot; diameter smaller, so your speedometer will read faster than you are actually going by about 1.7%, unless you also have the computer corrected for the difference in size through programming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastEditorUserId="6599" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T02:46:19.317" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T02:46:19.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4306" CreationDate="2014-09-17T01:00:56.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the lubrication options don't work, the chain might need replacing.  I made this mistake once... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I over tightened the chain, and when for a ride, too much torque, suspension travel, etc.. stretched the chain in a few places and sort of bent a couple of the pins in the chain causing tight spots (and loose spots)... can't really repair it...  chuck a new chain on... made a massive difference to the feel of the bike too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T01:00:56.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T02:17:09.153" Score="3" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left front wheel curb damage to 2007 toyota corolla causes rotational vibration noise (localized from left front side when driving) and steering wheel shaking. Put new wheel on, same tire (undamaged) mounted and balanced, still had noise and shaking. Rotated wheel front to back swap, did not help. Changed left front hub, hub bearing, inner and outer tie rod ends, no help.Changed CV axle no help; still have the noise and shaking. Car has 194,000 miles on it. Could the strut be damaged or do you think the lower control arm was damaged? Inspected the lower control arm; does not look like it is damaged and have used hands to check tire mounted to hub top and bottom and left or right, no looseness. Any more ideas I need to entertain here?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6995" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T18:49:47.833" Title="2007 toyota corolla vibration after front wheel damage" Tags="|toyota|steering|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T03:32:10.593" Score="1" ViewCount="20222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to start my car today, it turned over for a sec, then stopped and made no noise. All lights &amp;amp; accessories still work. First, I cleaned the battery terminals and cables to ensure clean connections - still no start. Then, with the ignition in the On position, I tried moving the gear shift several times in &amp;amp; out of gears, then back to park - still no start.  Then I got a boost and still no start, no noise, so not the alternator... I am thinking it is not the starter , as it should make a clicking noise right? … as that is what I had noticed with a previous car. So, I am thinking it could be the starter solenoid or the fuse or ignition relay switch. anyone know if this sounds like what I should check next? I will disconnect the battery and check the 40A fuse, but how do I know if the relay switch is gone…and with the solenoid attached to the starter, I guess I will have to take it to the shop for that to be checked. I like the old  cars where the solenoid was right up top and easy to jump… any help would be appreciated, as I don't want to sink much $$ in this car anymore &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T16:46:51.743" Title="my 2002 Ford Taurus won't start and makes no clicking ,etc noise." Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T07:48:02.400" Score="7" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recently launched Suzuki GSXR150 boasts an inverted triangle piston skirt. From what I have been told, it seems to be MotoGP technology which has been stripped down to suit a 150cc bike. Kindly explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T11:17:11.243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T12:57:23.833" Title="What is an inverted triangle piston skirt?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|suzuki|piston|gsxr|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12359" CreationDate="2014-09-17T09:50:09.473" Score="1" ViewCount="5161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to increase the horsepower of my BMW 1.16i along with some additional make-up modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'll be making the horsepower upgrade, it will happen using the official software from Evotech via the official distributor of Evotech in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my 2 year guarantee is almost up so burning up the guarantee is no hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that is this a wise decision? I heard that 1.18i has nearly the same engine as 1.16i does and basically BMW produces 1.18i by merely changing it's software. Is this correct? Will me making this hp modification risky that it will make my engine unstable or produce some problems in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it possible that if I make the hp increase, will my 1.16i burn less gas since I'll have more hp to move the car? Or am I completely wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any thoughts or better yet any experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3943" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T13:56:04.377" Title="Modifying BMW 1.16i to have more horsepower" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12352" CreationDate="2014-09-17T13:29:21.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to help out a friend who owns an '03 Chevy Caprice (Holden Statesman in Australia; LS1 V8). His transmission is misbehaving; it doesn't want to upshift unless the engine reaches a high enough speed like 4000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He recently had the transmission fluid refreshed and recently observed metal flakes on the transmission dipstick as well. While it is likely that the root cause of failure is mechanical wear and tear, he is wondering if the behavior could be explained by an electrical/electronic issue such as a bad sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T21:06:48.233" Title="What could cause lazy shifting in an automatic transmission?" Tags="|transmission|caprice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12336" CreationDate="2014-09-17T13:49:51.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solenoid is probably on the starter itself.  You can check if the signal is making it to the solenoid with a voltmeter while cranking the engine. You should see 12 volts.  Other possibilities are the battery cable running to the starter, fuses, ignition switch itself, and the neutral safety switch.  Try shifting it to neutral and starting, or wiggle the shifter while turning the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T13:49:51.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12350" CreationDate="2014-09-17T16:51:22.900" Score="3" ViewCount="10601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a garage do work on my 95 Mazda B2300 during which they replaced the faulty instrument cluster. When I dropped it off at the shop, it had approximately 170k miles on it. After they installed the refurbished instrument cluster, my truck has magically gone back in time to read 120k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the garage have advanced the refurbished odometer to the correct mileage, or do I just need to keep track of the difference? I currently have the exact difference documented, so do I just need to report it to whoever I eventually sell the truck to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T20:46:43.587" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T14:55:02.170" Title="Incorrect odometer reading after replacing instrument cluster?" Tags="|mazda|instrument|odometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12335" CreationDate="2014-09-17T17:11:48.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see you list anything about brake components... Check the brake rotor as they are common sources of steering wheel vibration, even when not damaged.  If you hit a curb then there's a chance the rotor was warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:11:48.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12340" CreationDate="2014-09-17T17:12:01.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, an electronic issue would make it possible, but given the metal flakes in the transmission oil, it's almost certainly a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has been driven particularly hard, and it's the original transmission with no upgrades, it is very likely that it just needs rebuilt at this point. The clutches inside the transmission do wear out over time, and wear out faster with very hard driving (such as drag racing the car every weekend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:12:01.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12342" CreationDate="2014-09-17T17:13:35.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the odometer reading should have been placed at the correct value when the &quot;new&quot; cluster was installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should return to the garage and have them correct the difference, as they should have done in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:13:35.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12351" CreationDate="2014-09-17T18:05:50.333" Score="3" ViewCount="2840" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another vehicle hit mine, and the offending driver has offered to pay for repairs and a rental vehicle. That said, he is being cheap about using OEM vs. after-market parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that after-market parts are approximately half of the cost of the OEM parts but have been advised that, in some instances, the after-market parts may not fit correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, I have been told that insurance companies generally require the use of after-market parts for repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vehicle is a 2006 Acura MDX with white pearlescent paint. Am I going to see a difference in quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:56:36.923" Title="OEM vs. after-market bumper repair: is there a difference in quality?" Tags="|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-17T19:30:31.650" Score="3" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 91 GMC 3500 dually 7.4. I recently had my transmission rebuilt and it ran fine for 6 to 7 months. I give it gas and it will go up to 40-45 mph and will stop accelerating like it goes in neutral. The rpms go up but the truck will not speed up and wont accelerate again until it drops down to 30 mph. Sometimes it will accelerate after 30 mph if I keep trying to accelerate. I notice if I floor it it will go up to 80 mph most of the time. Other times it will do it again around 60 mph. I took it back to transmission shop and they said they believe it's an electrical problem. I then had them put in new solenoids but no change. I've had a few mechanics look at it and no one seems to know what to do. What is wrong with my truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7000" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T01:39:31.710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T20:36:23.457" Title="91 GMC accelerating problems" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12346" CreationDate="2014-09-17T20:21:44.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there will be a difference in quality. They are not necessarily made from the same materials or molds as the OEM parts. Any savings in cost on aftermarket body parts is often made up for by the additional work to get proper fitment and paint quality during install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:21:44.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12342" CreationDate="2014-09-17T20:53:26.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have any worry about it, necessarily. Keep the documentation as you suggested and pass it along to a new owner if that ever occurs. If you drive it until the tires fall off, this will never be a worry. You aren't trying to get over on someone and you didn't cause the discrepancy yourself. It is what it is and should be treated as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are truly worried about it, there are devices on the internet (eBay) which you can plug into your ALDL port and update the mileage (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Device I found at the time of this writ was: XTOOL PS300 CAR REMOTE ECU PROGRAMMER &amp;amp; MILES CORRECTION TOOL PS 300 ... I'm deign to a link to it on eBay because as an auction, the listing will be gone very soon). Personally I wouldn't go through the expense and trouble of it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:53:26.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12346" CreationDate="2014-09-17T20:56:36.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I stated &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11863/how-to-ensure-body-repair-parts-will-fit&quot;&gt;in this post&lt;/a&gt;, if you purchase a bumper cover which is CAPA certified, you'll not have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell the guy you don't care which part he gets to replace (aftermarket or OEM) &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;as long as it is CAPA certified&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and you'll not have any issues ... at least with the fit of the bumper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:56:36.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12340" CreationDate="2014-09-17T21:06:48.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is an '03, it should be running a 4L60-E transmission. This transmission was fairly anemic as far as being able to stand up to an LS motor. If it has 240k miles on it, that is actually a huge amount of mileage for this transmission. As suggested, this transmission is due for an overhaul. I would bet the sun shell is worn out, as well as all the friction material being gone. Considering you have metal flake showing up on the dip stick, the pump is probably getting worn out as well. My suggestion for your friend is to get a rebuild kit and take it to a transmission shop to have them install it. A kit like this &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monstertransmission.com/4L60E-4L65E_c_4322.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monster-in-a-Box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a good choice. If you want to save money, take the transmission out yourself and take it to them for the rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T21:06:48.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35022" CreationDate="2014-09-17T21:45:40.700" Score="5" ViewCount="2532" Body="&lt;p&gt;Help,  My van was running fine the previous day, but when I went to start it the next day it would turn over fine and fire, but it wouldn't continue to run. If I give it gas when it fires it starts, but as soon as I let off of the throttle it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas?  I don't think it is the battery as it isn't sluggish at all when it is turning over it just won't run unless I have the throttle pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T19:48:57.573" Title="2002 Toyota Sienna Dies right after starting" Tags="|toyota|sienna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12348" CreationDate="2014-09-18T01:31:19.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty obvious to me, based on your description that it's a transmission issue. Not sure why a transmission shop wouldn't be able to diagnosis it. Based on the information it sounds like it's not going into third gear, which could be an electrical issue, and if it is the transmission shop should still be able to fix it. There are a few specific things that can cause loss of third gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solenoid B malfunctioning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quad driver module failure (replace Transmission Control Module)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intermediate Clutch components (Mechanical problem inside the&#xA;transmission)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After rereading your question again it might be fourth gear instead of third that's the problem. Here are the things that can cause that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solenoid B malfunctioning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quad driver module failure (replace Transmission Control Module)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overrun clutch reaction plates splines. (Mechanical problem inside the&#xA;transmission)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth Clutch components (Mechanical problem inside the&#xA;transmission)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again a competent transmission shop should be able to diagnosis this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T20:36:23.457" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T20:36:23.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12337" CreationDate="2014-09-18T12:26:56.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines with a single cylinder can be arranged at any angle but typically upright or inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Gixxer they says,&#xA;&quot;An inverted triangle shaped piston skirt has also been utilized to increase bottom end torque, smaller and lightweight rocker arms and a reduced angle of the valves have all helped better combustion, aided by the good looking dual type exhaust.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that they have found a new angle to deliver the above features.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/bike-reviews/29925-suzuki-gixxer-155-ridden-reviewed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;References&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastEditorUserId="7004" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T07:47:30.183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T07:47:30.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12338" CreationDate="2014-09-18T12:36:31.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really can get more power by burning less fuel. The problem is: if you inject less fuel, you explosion temperature increase. That is what you engine not adapted for. If you would like to go this way, you need another cylinders, bigger oil pan, bigger cooling system and so one. Only an other software is not the best way to increase your hp. Maybe they found a better optimum for your engine, but maybe the just give you more hp at the cost of your engine health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T12:36:31.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12338" CreationDate="2014-09-18T13:56:04.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the turbocharged version of the 116i, don't bother with a software update. It won't be worth the money you spend. You'll probably gain about 5 to 10 horsepower at most. You'll hardly feel the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the 116i turbo though, go for it. You can do lots of great things with a turbo engine, especially one that is running at relatively low boost levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fuel efficiency, you'll have to specifically ask for a fuel efficient map. Just take note that a fuel efficient map will make your engine run hotter, shortening its lifespan somewhat. A true high performance fuel map will usually inject a bit more fuel to get the Air/Fuel ratio down to around 13/1, down from the usual 14.7/1. This means that it uses about 12% more fuel than usual. 14/7 is the point at which your engine burns the most efficiently and produces the least amount of penguin-killing gases, but it's not the optimal ratio for going fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note: always use the same fuel that you had in your car when you had the software done. If you had 91 octane in it, stay away from 87 or whatever you guys have. A high performance map has less tolerance for lower octane fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T13:56:04.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1447" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:04:12.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you're ecu changes to help prevent damage to youre engine, you're still causing damage to your head gasket.. This is one of the reasons subaru has had so many head gasket issues.. The manual says 87 or higher recommended... They didn't want Americans to not buy the car if they recommended premium fuel for an awd car.. So if the car says 87 or higher, go higher to prevent major engine repairs in the future..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7005" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T14:04:12.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12327" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:54:25.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue most likely has nothing to do with the control. The reason your system is cycling so rapidly is probably due to being undercharged with refrigerant. There may still be enough left to provide heat transfer (a cold evaporator) but not effectively chill the air. This will cause rapid compressor clutch cycling like you are experiencing. It is due to the system low side pressure dropping below the level required to keep the low drop-out switch closed. This is a safety switch designed to keep you from damaging your compressor running it without sufficient refrigerant to carry the lubricating oil thru the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fix: Find where your system is losing refrigerant, fix the leak, evacuate the system to remove contaminating moisture, refill with refrigerant and the proper oil if required from repair.&#xA;If there is no apparent leak and the vehicle has not had the AC serviced in several years, I have seen them slowly lose refrigerant thru the service fittings and system seals. You may be able to get another year out two with just a recharge. &#xA;~Jonathan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T14:54:25.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:55:23.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not just performance that's suffering if you use a fuel less than recommended.  You're doing unseen damage to your head gasket.  By the time it's noticeable, it's too late and you've caused an expensive repair that could have been avoided.  If your owner's manual says 87 or higher, go with the higher!  Subaru is having a huge problem with their head gaskets leaking because they said their cars can run on 87.  Their fix to this is a coolant conditioner that contains stop leak, which means they know the problem is already done to the head gaskets and they're putting a band-aid on the problem.  If they said use higher octane fuel from the get go, they wouldn't have the big problem they're having.  So if it says 87 or higher, and you want your car to last with less of a chance of a hefty repair bill, go higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7006" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:25:12.173" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:25:12.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12318" CreationDate="2014-09-18T15:04:43.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most auto part stores will loan enough tools to test what's wrong. Check your fuel pressure, your cylinder compression, and make sure your ignition system doesn't have water damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any DTCs those would help pinpoint the exact problem also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6811" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T15:04:43.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T16:30:20.557" Score="2" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that each make and model varied in battery draw, please tell me what the normal is for a 2009 Honda Fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T17:28:43.853" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:18:22.673" Title="What is the normal battery draw for a 2009 Honda Fit?" Tags="|honda|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12365" CreationDate="2014-09-18T17:29:54.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;75 - 100 milliamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is standard across most modern cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T17:29:54.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12790" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:47:58.720" Score="5" ViewCount="9743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am having some problems with my honda xr650l (1995). During acceleration I experience a sort of stuttering loss in power. Almost the same feeling as runnning out of gas in the main tank. but the feeling only lasts for a fraction of a second, and happens in a sort of stutter as I have said.. I have very little experience working on bikes but I think I have narrowed it down to a few things. Either carb needs to be cleaned, carb needs to be adjusted, or water in the gas tank. I have  bought the bike only a few months ago and Have been riding it at an altitude of 5000 feet, high desert. At-least 3500 feet above its previous home so I belive it may be that the carb just needs an adjustment. So I think it is the first thing I should try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should reiterate I have no experience with adjusting the carb and very little experience working on bikes in general. I hope it can be done by adjusting the air fuel mixture screw, and the idle speed adjustment screw... But I am not sure where to start, How does the air fuel mixture screw work ? Which direction increases air in the mixture and which direction increases fuel? and where should the ratio be at high altitude? How will adjusting the idle speed help? I would like to know any other pertinent information I am missing, caveats etc. I am having trouble finding a good guide on the topic so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7009" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T23:00:05.803" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T07:07:22.527" Title="High altitude adjusment for carb 4stroke. (honda xr650l)" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|carburetor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:52:54.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's your motor mounts. I've been through 2 sets of stock, while waiting for aftermarket billet aluminum, and can say with certainty that you need to replace those motor mounts. The right front wheel is taking a beating from engine lash, and all fours will show a really gnarly tread wear pattern, meanwhile, so rotate those tires as often as possible. If you're not modifying your car otherwise, stock up and save on stock mounts. There is only a small selection of alternatives available, and they're pretty hard on related components. But until you get those scoped out, find the liquid filled rubber has sheared and is mostly flotsam, you're going to have torque transfer issues, steering wobble, terrible shimmy from 40-65. The passenger and rear mounts are ridiculous of design and application, and may fail again within 10Kmi, first symptom that shimmy. I find myself in easy acceleration mode a lot, whoops going 80 when I should be at 65, which is a costly habit. Tires and finding myself boxed in then stalled in street traffic from all around failure to engage is pretty bad, too. Not a problem with the aluminum, but hooboy does that amplify every noise and tiny little other problem's hastening.  Good luck, and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7010" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:52:54.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T19:03:55.100" Score="1" ViewCount="19015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our front driver's side brake locked up on us and even started smoking. The caliper is stuck shut and won't reopen. We're stuck on the side of the road. What do we need to do in order to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7011" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T20:37:33.950" LastActivityDate="2020-09-29T22:06:02.443" Title="Driver's side front brake locked up" Tags="|brakes|lincoln|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12369" CreationDate="2014-09-18T19:19:03.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things can cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The caliper is mechanically stuck, requires replacement not much you can do on the side of the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake hose for that side has failed and now is working like a one way valve, allowing fluid to apply the brakes but not allowing the fluid to release and return to the master cylinder. You need a new brake hose and even thought that is a fairly simple repair it's not something I would suggest doing on the side of the highway. Cracking open the bleeder screw on the caliper may release the pressure and get you going again, however you have a very good possibility that it will do the same thing again almost immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Problem with a valve in the ABS system. Need a shop, not really a DIY project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line call a tow truck. Have it towed home if you think you can do it, but I would recommend towing it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T19:19:03.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2014-09-18T19:56:09.473" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil pressure is higher than the coolant pressure, so oil gets into coolant through a crack in the cylinder head. Most, if not all heads that have pressurized oil in them have camshafts in the head, which the 98 3.8 Buick V6 does not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7012" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T20:37:24.330" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T20:37:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T02:45:54.620" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by a garage that I need a NSF wishbone due to a knocking noise. The Punto is 13 years old. is it safe to drive until I can get this done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7014" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T21:23:41.733" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T11:32:51.520" Title="Is it safe to drive a Fiat Punto with a failing passenger side wishbone?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-09-19T05:37:09.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the air pressure being comparatively low at high altitudes, it might cause the above mentioned problems. And working on the carburetor if you don't have any experience is a bad idea, because it could ultimately lead to engine overheating and such problems that could ruin you engine. Four Strokes have a better tolerance towards an engine running lean or rich but still highly unrecommended. Also clean the fuel line. A clogged fuel line could also cause issues. Contact a mechanic and he should be able to adjust the AFR for you in no time. Also clean/replace the air-filter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="6416" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T06:06:58.063" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T06:06:58.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7892" CreationDate="2014-09-19T05:59:00.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be BMW center is wrong or i am wrong.&#xA;A no start condition is mostly a symptom of a failed fuel pump. A fuel pump with problems will often produce a loud whine. Worn brushes, commutators and broken/loose windings in the fuel pump motor or harness can also cause the vehicle to die. This often happens after driving a while. Such problems are very difficult to diagnose. Most late-model vehicles no longer have separately replaceable fuel filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR your problem might be something else, this link might help you.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/a/ts_no-start.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LINK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T05:59:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T08:34:37.340" Score="7" ViewCount="4961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a curved shaft 25cc 2 stroke Troy-bilt weed eater model #Tb32ec. I was using it to cut down some tall grass and it just quit cutting. It never bogged down or stalled out. I made sure that the string or grass did not get tangled up in the head or neck. The head spins just like it should, and isn't froze up. The motor still runs very strong. What could cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7015" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T20:14:11.100" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T19:27:16.840" Title="Weed eater doesn't cut weeds anymore" Tags="|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12376" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:08:23.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time you use them, Periodically &lt;strong&gt;tap the head&lt;/strong&gt; on the ground to advance the line. It's important, though, that the head rotates at full speed when you tap it because the centrifugal force of the spinning is what advances the string. Always tap the trimmer head on a soft surface, such as grass, and not on a hard surface, including concrete and wood, or you may damage the trimmer head. It's better to bump the head more often than less often. A blade on the guard automatically cuts the line to the right length.&#xA;                              The line of a Weed Eater trimmer head won't advance if it is too short because not enough centrifugal force acts on it. That situation can happen if you don't tap the head often enough or the line becomes sheared by a piece of wire or a root. Running the trimmer with line that is 50 percent or less of the recommended length can cause the head to turn too quickly, which can wear out the engine. A broken spring also can be responsible for failure of the line to advance. The spring can be replaced by removing the spool from the head or by removing the head from the drive shaft, depending on the Weed Eater trimmer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T12:08:23.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12365" CreationDate="2014-09-19T14:18:22.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;normal&quot; battery draw. It varies depending on whether the engine is running, what the load on the alternator is, how much electricity the alternator is generating, and what accessories are in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More accessories being used creates a larger draw. When the engine is off and no accessories or lights are on, there should be minimal draw on the battery; a few milliamps to allow remote entry, theft prevention, stereo memory, and such features to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:18:22.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12337" CreationDate="2014-09-19T15:13:58.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the piston skirt is the bit of the piston under the gudgeon pin on the piston/conrod, it seems this is a way of reducing drag and wear on the cylinder (i.e. less contact patch) and therefore making it more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar principle is used in &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Slipper_pistons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slipper pistons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A slipper piston is a piston for a petrol engine, that has been reduced in size and weight as much as possible. In the extreme case, they are reduced to the piston crown, support for the piston rings, and just enough &lt;strong&gt;piston skirt remaining to leave two lands so as to stop the piston rocking in the bore&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T15:13:58.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12388" CreationDate="2014-09-19T19:41:46.093" Score="9" ViewCount="80669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to unscrew my faulty O2 sensor (to replace it with a new one I purchased) in a 2001 Honda Accord, with a F23A4 engine, per the following instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/R1SWOA58S291M5/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt/188-1569319-6299352#R1SWOA58S291M5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/review/R1SWOA58S291M5/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt/188-1569319-6299352#R1SWOA58S291M5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To no avail...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look rusty, it is just stuck.&#xA;I tried first WD-40, didn't help.&#xA;I then tried Liquid Wrench, didn't help.&#xA;I then tried PB Blaster, didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others report not even needing all of that, so I must be doing something wrong (and I &lt;em&gt;am&lt;/em&gt; using the the special socket for this sensor!). &lt;strong&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uWZt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7016" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T10:46:22.800" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T04:30:59.127" Title="How to Unscrew/loosen stuck O2 sensor" Tags="|honda|o2-sensor|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2014-09-19T19:54:38.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be safe to drive, but it's all dependent upon how worn out it is. Since it is a crucial suspension item, I'd highly suggest you do not risk your safety or the safety of your passengers. Either get it fixed or don't drive it until you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T19:54:38.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12380" CreationDate="2014-09-19T20:05:04.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to replace the sensor and have already purchased the replacement, cut the wires off of the old sensor and put a 1/2&quot; drive deep well socket onto it (don't use the split socket for the O2 sensor to take it off, but you will use it to put it back on). Use a breaker bar to break it free, then use a ratchet the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have a deep well socket, you can also use a boxed end wrench. After you cut off the sensor pig tail, put the wrench on there so it is easily accessible. Then hit the end sticking up with a BFH (Big F-ing Hammer) until it breaks loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to turn it &lt;strong&gt;counter clockwise&lt;/strong&gt; or you will never get it off. If this is unfamiliar to you, that means with the wrench or breaker bar sticking straight up in the air, you want it to go to the &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt;. (I know, you already know this, just making sure we are on the same sheet of music). Either method should break it free so you can get it out of the bung. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to put some type of anti-seize compound on the threads of the new sensor. It is imperative when you do so &lt;strong&gt;not to get any on the sensor end&lt;/strong&gt;. This will cause it to go bad. I like Denso O2 sensors for the simple reason they supply you with copper based anti-seized which works really well (the sensor works well, too, and they usually cost less than the major brands). You also don't want to handle the sensor end with your fingers either. This will cause it to go bad in a short period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I didn't read your link ... this is just the way I'd get it done (and have done before many times when needed, with success each time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T20:05:04.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T21:26:26.900" Score="2" ViewCount="14613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Shadow 750 (Aero). I see people saying they fill it up to 3.8 gallons. I can't get even near to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get to 1.8 the pump stops automatically and with 1.8 I can ride for about 110 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with what I'm doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6667" LastEditorUserId="6667" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T02:59:16.033" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T09:18:58.413" Title="What is the tank size of a honda shadow 750 (2009)?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T03:56:48.523" Score="1" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to to repair or replace the plastic eyelets which connects the regulator the door glass glass? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7018" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T15:49:37.007" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T21:13:11.360" Title="Regulator to window glass connection on Toyota Yaris" Tags="|toyota|power-windows|yaris|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T13:52:31.483" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, my 1996 Acura 2.5TL is running the battery dead by running when not necessary. If it was continuously running after the engine shut off I would say stuck relay but it will both continue after the engine is off AND start long after the engine is cool (&amp;lt;= that one caught me by surprise). I suppose that means a bad thermostat but the compartment is so tight I cannot tell where the thermostat is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T18:21:16.630" Title="Fan running the battery dead on a 96 Acura" Tags="|battery|acura|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12383" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:53:41.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/24614/Buyers-Guide-Specifications/2009-Honda-Shadow-750-Aero.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website says&lt;/a&gt; it's a 3.7 gallon tank with a 0.9 gallon reserve. I'm thinking you aren't filling it to the top or even near the filler neck. If you have the filler handle nose stuck down in the tank, as soon as the gas covers the snout it's going to click off. Try pulling it out a little bit and filling it some more. If you can see space between the filler neck and the gas level, you can always put some more in. Don't overflow the tank though ... that would make for a dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:53:41.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12380" CreationDate="2014-09-20T17:40:29.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From time to time you do come across a rusted in sensor. Your vehicle being a 2001, and O2 sensors lasting some time, yours is rusted in. If sheer force does not work you may need to use an oxy-acetalyne torch on the sensor to heat to it red-hot to break the rusting and undo it with a good single-hex deep socket. I have had one or two sensors break up and their remains have to be 'chipped' out of the manifold. A tap the size of the sensor thread should be used to clean and make good the manifold sensor threads. You may need to visit a repair shop to have the sensor removed because of the equipment needed for a bad case of seizure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T17:40:29.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2014-09-20T17:43:14.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 13 year old Punto the answer is &quot;No&quot;. Have the wishbone replaced before driving the vehicle. You have your own personal version of Russian roulette going on at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T17:43:14.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12384" CreationDate="2014-09-20T17:58:19.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy the plastic clips on eBay from around £2($4) the pair. The plastic does not stick well enough, even with super glue. Not really a repairable item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T17:58:19.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12369" CreationDate="2014-09-20T18:12:17.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of possibilities for the brake seizing. The caliper piston may be seizing in its bore, and will not retract. This will mean a new or service replacement caliper. A second, more usually found cause, is the slider pins are seizing. Ease the caliper off of the pins and clean up the pins or renew them. As for the bore the pins sits in, tear a strip of fine emery cloth to the width of the length of the pin. Wrap the emery cloth-strip around a suitably size split-pin and put it into a drill. You can operate the drill and with the emery/pin setup entered into the pin bore hole clean out the bore of any rust. Lubricate the pins with a copper grease on re-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T18:12:17.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T23:46:50.020" Score="1" ViewCount="2957" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago the turbo blew on my mk5 Golf replaced it and cleaned all the pipes. Since this the car is lacking boost below turbo and the black smoke is so bad I can't see the car behind me. I have deleted the egr removed the cat just a straight through exhaust. No faults is showing up for anything and I have had it tested for boost leaks. Is this a boost sensor or has it bent valves when turbo blew? Mechanic can't seem to get the problem sorted. Anyone have any advice what this could be?  It's a 105bhp 2005 pd engine 1.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7020" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T15:17:55.377" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:16:07.020" Title="Mk5 golf lacking boost and smoke before turbo" Tags="|vw|golf|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-09-21T13:51:52.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Golf's turbo has a solenoid operated control to vary its geometry. I remember it as part N75. If this is in any way faulty you will have most of the symptoms you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand-held vacuum pump to the turbo's vacuum supply hose will allow you to see the turbo vanes operating correctly. Follow the vacuum hose from the turbo back to the solenoid to find the solenoid. (Taking out the EGR valve will increase your NOX emissions and is not a good, or legal, idea. The straight through exhaust doesn't count a lot either way apart from a possible increase in noise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colour of the smoke is important. Black is not enough air or too much fuel. If the smoke is more blue then black, it means that oil is being burnt. When the turbo goes on an engine it is normal for the exhaust to 'fill' with oil. Your smoke may be due to a lot of this, and the other symptoms could be accounted for by heavy oil saturation of the catalyst convertor and exhaust system choking off the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last consideration is the replacement turbo you have used. A &lt;em&gt;same size - new - direct replacement&lt;/em&gt; should be OK but one from a junk yard or likewise would raise questions on its viability as a replacement. Cleaning the turbo's pipes, hoses, and inter-cooler should be done professionally. Swilling the turbo systems with a degreasing fluid on its own can release a lot of sludge will only go to cause further blockages or problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T21:16:07.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:16:07.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-21T16:30:58.647" Score="1" ViewCount="12520" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought our van last November from a dealer. Warranty is over :(&#xA;Now we've got intermittent startup problems. The main noise is the sound when the engine is trying to turn over but immediately failing. There is no starter &quot;clicking&quot; sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say intermittent I really mean very rare, like 1 in 30 (or more). It appears to be at random and the weather/temperature doesn't appear to be affecting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the battery with my multimeter and it registered at 18 volts. That doesn't seem right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also called the local starter/alternator guy and he said he doesn't even have a part number for the starter for my vehicle. He reasoned that since he doesn't have that number he's fairly certain that it's not a part that fails that often or this early in the vehicle's life. He thought maybe it was a bad connection or the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 18 volt battery is concerning me, but I don't know enough to say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me diagnose this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4885" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T19:30:47.730" Title="2011 Dodge Grand Caravan Intermittent Start Failure" Tags="|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-21T17:05:10.830" Score="9" ViewCount="52784" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use synthetic ester-based oil in a relatively new petrol engine, top it up regularly, and the engine runs very quietly and basically without any noise whatsoever (especially after another top up), and can easily go up the minor hills without having to go into a lower gear (with automatic transmission), do you actually still need to do full oil changes at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that it doesn't appear to be uncommon or even worrisome for the oil consumption to be around 3k to 6k miles per litre or quart, which means that every 12k to 24k miles, you end up with about 4 litres or quarts of new oil in the engine, leaving only about 2 litres of old oil still in the system after a year or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I'm currently running my 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L 5W40 with about 6 litres of top ups (~1L Castrol, 1L Petrosin, then after learning about ester-based oil, 4x ~1L of Red Line Synthetic Oil (or perhaps even 5x)), which basically means that there is almost no original oil left in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last oil change was done at a dealership in November 2010 at ~29k miles; it's now September 2014 and ~68k miles (68k &amp;minus; 29k miles, &amp;div; 5,7L, ends up about 7k miles per litre of oil); after the most recent top up a few weeks ago, the engine runs very-very quietly, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6427/very-bad-gas-mileage-in-a-brand-new-german-car&quot;&gt;I'm still getting excellent mpg after doing these topups&lt;/a&gt;, and the engine can currently easily handle modest hills in the normal gear without automatically switching to a lower one up (I've noticed that going up the hills was a problem when the oil was low (at the point of needing topup) and prior to adding the 5th top-up, but it wasn't even a problem when I was about to add my last 6th one up, probably because I'm now all Redline and also it wasn't below the recommended minimum this time around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to finally do an oil change soon, myself at a DIY shop; is there anything I should look for or be familiar with when trying to do an oil change at such an irregular interval?  It'll be 100% Red Line Synthetic Oil, of course.  I'll probably buy an OEM oil filter from the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T14:15:48.423" Title="Is topping up the oil enough of an oil change?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|fuel-consumption|jetta|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12395" CreationDate="2014-09-21T22:40:45.427" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. To add more to it: &lt;strong&gt;Absolutely Not&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one huge thing which you have not taken into account. That being carbon which deposits from the air/fuel mixture burning process. Where does it go? Right into the oil (among other places). A small amount of blow by occurs which also forces this mixture down into the crank case. Now you have it in the oil. When you don't change it out, it stays indefinitely in the crank case. Some of it gets trapped inside the oil filter. It doesn't sound to me like you've changed the filter, so now you've maxed it out and are circulating all that dirty oil right on through because the bypass has opened up. All that cruddy, dirty oil is running itself through what used to be nice bearings. Now, not so much. Those oil scraper rings are doing their best, but you haven't given them a chance. Just an ugly scene at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you failed to realize is that you still have old oil in your system no matter how much replacement you've put in. It's not linear, but rather like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 quarts of oil, with 2 quarts gone, gives you 2 quarts left (Oil1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You add two quarts to it, you now have 2q Oil1 &amp;amp; 2q Oil2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2q goes away. You now have 1q Oil1 &amp;amp; 1q Oil2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 2q Oil3, you now have 1q Oil1, 1q Oil2, &amp;amp; 2q Oil3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2q goes away. You now have .5q Oil1, .5q Oil2, &amp;amp; 1q Oil3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etc, etc, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you get the picture. Even with oil which has an extended life, such as Mobil1 Extended Life, you should still replace the filter more often then you change the oil, because they will not stand up to the extended life. When you replace, you then top off the oil as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While logically it may have the sound of truth to it, realistically you've probably caused irreparable damage to your internals. An engine which may have lasted 200k miles, might now only last 100k. Only time will tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T00:40:18.133" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T00:40:18.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12231" CreationDate="2014-09-22T05:37:25.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically your headlamps are controlled by a computer. The Front Electronic Module (FEM) to be exact. The FEM grounds the headlamps when it wants to turn them on. This system was an early Multiplex design that reduced wire and total circuits where the modules communicate on a single serial line, now referred to as the CAN Bus (Controller Area Network). You will likely need a scan tool to diagnosis the car, and not a cheap one, but a professional model. You many even need a factory scan tool, though I doubt if for a Ford. Outside of security theft deterrent systems they allow the aftermarket professional scan tools to access their systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where do you go from here? With or without a scan tool, the grounds are a good place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G303 are the main ground for the FEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G304 is connected via C179 (C means connector) and through S139 (S means splice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G304 is located behind the LH cowl panel&#xA;C179 is located behind the LH side of the instrument panel&#xA;S139 Dash panel to headlamp junction, near T/O to C192 Front Electronic Module (FEM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the FEM, G304, and C179 in the picture below. Outside of checking the connections and wiring there is not much you can do without a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fw94W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T05:37:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2014-09-22T11:23:17.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be you will have a sudden failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the things you mention, I would listen for noise. If you get a knocking sound when you go over a pot hole, or possibly when you corner hard, that is time to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T11:23:17.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12409" CreationDate="2014-09-22T15:07:48.053" Score="1" ViewCount="3094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed that my front fender liner was broken which exposed the internal parts (see attached image). There was no impact to the car as I am the only person driving this. I have not even hit a hard bump or pothole, AFAIK in last few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought this must be a manufacturing defect, where the fender liner has fallen off by itself. But my dealer's body shop guy thinks, something might have hit it at an angle to break it off or it might be an act of vandalism.&#xA;Now, given that I have been driving on paved roads only and I have no known car vandalists' -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could this really be a manufacturing defect?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the odds of something hitting a fender so hard to break it off on paved roads?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I chose not to replace the fender, could water get into the engine and damage it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5YlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7022" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T21:11:55.650" Title="Front fender liner broken" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12394" CreationDate="2014-09-22T20:24:31.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the output from your alternator. With your volmeter connected across the battery, without the engine running, you should have a voltage of some thing like 12.2V (volts) to around 12.6V. depending on the state of charge of the battery. If you now start the vehicle, the battery connected as before, and you are getting 18V, then the Zener diode in your alternator is controlling the output current and preventing a complete run-away voltage. If these are your readings, or similar, you will need a replacement alternator. You may be best advised to let a repair shop electrician give it the once over just to ascertain what exactly is going on. Around 13.5 - 14.5v is the maximum you should see with the engine running. A broken cable or bad earth may also give the symptoms you describe, which causes the alternator to try and make a full circuit by going full output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T20:24:31.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12395" CreationDate="2014-09-22T20:35:51.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your logic is way off. You should change your oil and filter at the manufacturers recommended intervals, with an oil of the manufacturers specification. The manufacturers cover many many miles under many differant conditions to decide a specification and in most circumstances the specification cannot be bettered for the intended use of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T20:35:51.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12405" CreationDate="2014-09-22T21:11:55.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could this really be a manufacturing defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I would suspect this vehicle's construction is no different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the odds of something hitting a fender so hard to break it off on paved roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With you being from Minnesota? And assume you've had this vehicle at least a year and drove it on the roads in the winter time? I'd suggest pretty good. You may not have even noticed it. Even if the part didn't fall off during the winter time, it surely could have been damaged during this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I chose not to replace the fender, could water get into the engine and damage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think water is your main concern. I'd say road grime and small debris are going to be of much greater concern. The fender well also protects from small rocks which get thrown up routinely by the tire tread. The parts which are visible will take a huge beating if you don't put a new one in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T21:11:55.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-23T01:24:10.297" Score="2" ViewCount="3920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced both front wheel bearings on my 2002 Chevy Cavalier about a year ago and again just 2 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them has already gone out again.  Is it possible that the bearing is just bad or is it possible that something else is wrong that is causing the bearings to go bad so quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the whole hub assembly each time and not packing the bearings myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7027" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T02:30:24.507" Title="What can cause a wheel new wheel bearing to fail after 2 weeks of use?" Tags="|chevrolet|bearing|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12446" CreationDate="2014-09-23T06:14:51.097" Score="2" ViewCount="2177" Body="&lt;p&gt;what are advantanges and disadvantages of paddock stand , lift and table lift regards to motorcycle maintenance work ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6834" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:02:11.237" Title="Comparison: motorcycle paddock stand vs lift vs table lift?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2014-09-23T11:32:51.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK it may not be legal to drive knowing your car is technically not roadworthy as parts of its suspension are not sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also unknown when the wishbone will fail completely or even if it will fail completely at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At around £25-£50 for the parts it would be sensible to not risk it and get it replaced - small independent garages may be cheaper than dealers to get it worked on if money is an issue.  Additionally it may be putting stress on other parts of the car as its not able to bear its load correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T11:32:51.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12417" CreationDate="2014-09-23T15:37:32.770" Score="2" ViewCount="3520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Figo 2012, the last few weeks the door light on the dashboard has been on even through, all the doors are closed. (The light only comes on when I start my engine, as expected with Figo's)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search on the internet, and saw that its possible that the switch inside the lock of the door could be stuck, due to dirt.  I sprayed electrical lubricant into each lock, and then open and closed the doors a few times each, but no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happen 3 times already.  First time after I left my car in the hot sun for a few hours, but it sorted itself out, after a long trip to the city.  A week later, I again left it out in the hot sun, but I took it in to get looked at by a Ford Dealer.  They replace the plug that connects to the lock, by the drivers door, that work.  Yet again a week later I left my car in the hot sun. I just notices that temperature may have a part to play here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it back to the dealer today, the technician is having trouble working out what is wrong.  He told me He replaced the GEM module with a new Figo's one, he reset the computer, cleared all IDC codes. Still nothing changes.  He went father to explain that for some reason it seem the computer cannot talk to the GEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I also notices; if I switch the left indicator on (left blinker) the door light flashes, and chimes at me.  But not the same for right.  Maybe its some form of troubleshooting mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone idea how to solve this problem or where to look, or check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:27:35.693" Title="Ford Figo Door light on when all doors are closed" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|door|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12418" CreationDate="2014-09-23T17:47:10.310" Score="2" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be doing some camping out of my Kia, and want to make sure I will not run the battery down if I power various gadgets over night via the power adapter ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I need to run a CPAP machine for sleep apnea, and I have the DC converter for the device. It draws 6 A @ 12 VDC, or 72 Watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just need to know the Amp-hour rating for the base Soul, and/or any warnings against running such a device off the car. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7030" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T18:47:56.263" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T00:56:00.103" Title="What is the amp-hour rating of 2014 Kia Soul base?" Tags="|battery|kia|power-outlet|soul|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12415" CreationDate="2014-09-23T18:27:35.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your instrument panel is part of the ECU on your vehicle, electrically. If the GEM has been substituted and still the problem has remained, a critical look at the instrument panel is required. Moisture or dampness, even a water entry from the windscreen, could cause corrosion to the IP and cause mis-function. Fords had this problem with European Focus's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:27:35.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12416" CreationDate="2014-09-23T18:32:46.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:32:46.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12416" CreationDate="2014-09-24T00:56:00.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the battery, not the car. The car will have a very small drain for the radio presets and fob receiver, but not much. A typical Lead-Acid battery has around a 100 minute reserve capacity. Reserve capacity being how long it takes a 25 amp discharge to lower the voltage to unusable levels. That's roughly 41 Ah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 6A will lower it too much after one night. &lt;code&gt;6 Amps * 8 Hours = 48 Ah&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T00:56:00.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2014-09-24T01:41:41.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doorman and others make a valve removal tool that comes with both high low PSI fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It snaps on to the valve head then you connect then removal portion that has a ball-cock. Start by connecting to which ever valve and remove inner Schrader valve it will blow valve up into tube and then shut ball cock and unscrew top tube remove bad Schrader and insert new Schrader valve and reattach tube to the tool and open ball cock lever and use the top handle to screw in new Schrader valve. Then just lift the collar on the removal tube and your done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a search on Google you'll find the tool at parts stores for about 39 dollars. Once you see the tool these instructions will make better since. You won't lose any gas this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7034" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T02:16:31.260" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T02:16:31.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12411" CreationDate="2014-09-24T02:30:24.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out that my lug nuts came loose and the wheel wobbling back and forth sounded like a bad wheel bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I tightened everything up when I was done.  It's possible that the wheel or the rotor wasn't seeded correctly though and loosened up once I started driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should have been the first thing that I checked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7027" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T02:30:24.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12412" CreationDate="2014-09-24T04:51:01.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle maintenance depends on your motorcycle. And depends on the maintenance job you intend to do. Do you really need a table life for lubing the chain or perhaps changing the Tyre ? How much money are you planning  to spend on the lift/paddock/table-lift? Do you know how to fix the engine should there be anything wrong? Then a lift table is a lot more convenient. What is cheaper, the mechanic or the table-lift? And usually a person who know the job knows the tools to use.&#xA;Or else in simple words, maintaining a motorcycle can be done by lubing the chain and changing the oil at the rite time. these are the very basics and a paddock should help you get through these tasks. And this may not be the answer you were looking for. The bigger tasks like changing the break-pads, changing the sprockets, changing the coolants (if its a liquid cooled), cleaning the carb and filter require a little more skills and experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="6416" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T05:31:42.830" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T05:31:42.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T05:08:36.940" Score="2" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 24l Fragram compressor, airbrush &amp;amp; gravity feed spraygun. I want to spray small Auto body parts(plastic). Will the compressor maintain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Gary Hoyer" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T11:47:14.927" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T22:36:57.950" Title="Body parts(auto) spray painting requirements" Tags="|paint|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23690" CreationDate="2014-09-24T05:31:34.310" Score="5" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just balanced my bike's carburetors (they were initially way out of sync). It idles lower and seems to smoke more when I rev it (smells rich). Returning it to it's previous out of sync setting increases the idle rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an 2004 Suzuki GSX250 Invader (2 cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T18:41:17.623" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T18:42:22.430" Title="Why does the bike idle lower after balancing carburetors?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|suzuki|carb-synchronization|gsx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T07:20:39.813" Score="3" ViewCount="13498" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago i posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12402/engine-light-in-seat-ibiza-2001&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; about the dealer reporting some oil spillage/leakage but that it passed the mechanical test. I checked the oil level of the car from my 80 minute drive home and it was a little below half (so plenty). Now i dont know how much oil was in the car when i bought it. Now, a few days later. My oil danger light turned on this morning. So i parked my car, waited about 15 minutes and checked the oil level. It was at the bare minimum. Now obviously the oil level shouldn't drop so fast. Is there anything i can check/do to resolve this? I've already made an apointment with my mechanic but i was wondering if there is something i can check for to make his job easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, the oil light turned off after about 3 minutes. (yes i finished my ride to work since it was a four minute drive). Would it be wise for me to drive home after work? Its about a 40 minute drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just checked my oil level again (after 4 hours of not running) and the oil level was back to what it was a few days ago. Could this mean that my engine, for some reason, holds a lot of oil somewhere? I'm not a mechanic so i have no idea how any of this works but im keen to learn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:00:26.377" Title="Massive oil drop in the course of a few days" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9816" CreationDate="2014-09-24T08:37:20.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a simple answer.&#xA;The engine produces energy which is measured in BHP (Break Horse Power). But the power has to reach the wheels so that the bike can move. The power reaching the Tyre will always be lower than the power produced by the engine (due mechanical losses and stuffs). And Lo behold WHP.. Wheel Horse power. And as always @Paulster@ is spot on. 125WHP for a bike is &quot;quite a bit of HP&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T08:37:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12425" CreationDate="2014-09-24T08:49:51.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're losing oil, one of two things will be happening - either it's leaking or it's being burnt in the engine. If it was being burnt, you should be able to see and smell it in the exhaust - a blue-black smoke with an oily smell. However if you're losing that much I'd suspect an external leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look around and under the engine bay for any signs of leaking. Are there oil spots on the ground under where the car was parked? Are there any areas of the engine bay that look more oily than others? Particularly look around the various seals and joints - oil filter, drain plug and pressure switch for example. Bear in mind that the place the oil is dripping from may not be the place it leaks, as it may flow along the surface first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T08:49:51.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9902" CreationDate="2014-09-24T08:51:40.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixing a bent fork will rectify a lot of problems. Using a bent fork will certainly cause a lot of issues. Low handling, lack of confidence while cornering and a wobbling effect while at high speeds are due to the different settings for the rear suspensions. When both rear suspensions have entirely different settings it causes all the above mentioned problems. Change both the rear suspensions or get is adjusted by a known mechanic. It wont cost you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T08:51:40.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12424" CreationDate="2014-09-24T08:54:32.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert on bike carbs, but if they are the same as car ones there will be two settings - one for mixture and one for idle. Once you have them balanced, you'll need to adjust these to get the right levels, while still keeping the pair balanced (i.e. increase the idle on both by the same amount, then check the balance, then decrease the mixture a bit, check the balance again, and so on). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it's something of a dark art, and you'll probably spend ages adjusting them by tiny amounts them until you're satisfied...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T08:54:32.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:12:25.753" Score="2" ViewCount="23602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a 2T oil is used in 2stroke bikes and its sometimes added with the fuel too. And a 20-40 oil also known as the engine oil is used to reduce the wear tear in the engine. I'm looking for a slightly more scientific explanation. Like why cant we use a 20-40 oil in a 2 stroke engine and why it wont be the same. Words like viscosity and temperature gradients would make the answer more fun to read. Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:21:04.903" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T13:57:04.107" Title="What is the difference between a 2T oil and a 20-40 oil" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:29:03.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The job of a helmet is to protect a rider's head from injuries. And how does it do it? the helmet has many layers/shells inside it. When you suffer a crash, the helmet absorbs the impact/shock by breaking the outermost shell and eventually nullify the effect to the maximum by the time the shock reaches your head. Which is why helmets are not made of metal or any hard material as such. So in other words, it is made to break itself so that your head does not. A helmet which fell once may not prove to be that useful anymore as the nullifying may not be that effective. Though it might still protect you from many scars. But that depends ultimately on the intensity of the fall (you falling from the bike and the fall your helmet recently had). So is that a risk worth taking? A helmet really saves lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="6416" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T11:28:23.843" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T11:28:23.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T13:41:42.777" Score="1" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a battery fail in my 2003 olds alero (6 cyl), replaced it, then my alternator failed (bosch), replaced that now the new alternator failed after 2 days why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7036" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T17:33:15.237" Title="battery and alternator problems, 2003 olds alero" Tags="|alternator|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6629" CreationDate="2014-09-24T13:47:48.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the security light staying on when the key is left in the on position?  If so, the security module may need to be reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7037" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T13:47:48.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T16:30:12.563" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic SI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was slow to crank when starting up, and while driving, electrical systems progressively got worse (radio would turn off and on, power steering would stop, and then car would eventually just turn off completely and turn back on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms were worse when there was a heavy electric load (windshield wipers and lights on, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it was having issues while running, I assumed this would make it an alternator problem. With my multimeter, the battery tested at 12.6V while off, and between 13V and 14V while on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Autozone, their tester said it had a bad cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I replaced the battery, all the symptoms were gone. What did the battery have anything to do with the car having those symptoms while turned on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7038" LastEditorUserId="7038" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T16:54:25.267" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:26:34.110" Title="Why did replacing the battery eliminate these symptoms?" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12432" CreationDate="2014-09-24T16:39:53.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a rebuilt alternator from a nationwide parts store, it is not uncommon for these to fail. Take it back to where you bought it and get a replacement. I hate to say it, but it's one of those things. You can purchase a new one from GM and it has the possibility it will fail in two days. Some things just cannot be tested well enough coming from the factory or rebuild site. You put them under load for a period of time and they fail. No rhyme or reason. If it fails again in a short period of time, I'd take it back, get my money back, and go to a different source to purchase a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T16:39:53.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12434" CreationDate="2014-09-24T16:46:29.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what they call it now, but the way it was explained to me was the battery has what is called a &quot;surface charge&quot;. It's enough of a charge in the &quot;bad&quot; cell for it to pass electricity, but not enough to keep things going. &lt;strong&gt;The single cell discharges faster than it can recharge&lt;/strong&gt;. This means, when this single cell is depleted, the battery as a whole cannot keep up and all of your electrically powered equipment will start to fail (well, not work, anyway). This is a &quot;weakest link&quot; type of situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything you stated about your situation tells me the Autozone worker is spot on with their analysis. I would have given you the exact same resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T16:46:29.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12425" CreationDate="2014-09-24T18:29:53.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine may have been run on a cheap brand of oil which would have lacked a good detergent ability. A 'cheaper(?)' oil can cause gumming up of the engines oil ways, causing a very slow return to the engines sump. (You are measuring the oil level held in the sump when you dip the dipstick into the engine.) Look inside and to one one side of the oil filler cap to see if there is a thick deposit there, or peer inside with a light. Difficult to put things right if your engine is sludged up. A couple of cans of engine flush may help, but this may just release some of the sludge rather then diluting it and may make matters worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T18:29:53.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T19:15:52.250" Score="0" ViewCount="1096" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Acura TSX is reaching the 100k miles range soon and I'm looking to get advice on maintenance changes. Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7040" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T20:59:53.073" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T21:33:15.263" Title="What maintenance changes do I have to make to my 09 Acura TSX when it reaches 100k miles?" Tags="|maintenance|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12441" CreationDate="2014-09-24T19:19:21.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2500 Savanna (GMC, 2001, extended), with an entertainment system.  The stock battery is fairly small, and I don't want to run the engine or drain the engine battery when playing videos for the kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an unused, new lead acid battery (from a 2000 Ford windstar - big battery).  While it's not a deep cycle battery, I'd like to use it as an auxiliary battery.  Primarily to power the entertainment stuff, but on occasion to jump the engine if for some reason the engine battery is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T09:24:18.417" Title="How do I add an auxiliary battery to a van?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12440" CreationDate="2014-09-24T20:58:36.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking to purchase is a electronic battery isolator kit. What it does is allows you to add an extra battery which stays separate (isolated) from your main battery. When the vehicle is running, the isolator charges the primary battery first, then when it's full, it will charge the auxiliary battery. When the engine is cut off, the auxiliary battery is kept separate and allowed to power your extraneous devices, like your entertainment system, without draining your primary battery. There is a side benefit to doing this, as with a flip of a switch, the auxiliary battery can be used as a power source to start your vehicle. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/RlNTqEqRF0Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a YouTube Video&lt;/a&gt; which explains it very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know enough about them to recommend any specific isolator, but this guy has a pretty good write-up about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Enerdrive VSR&lt;/a&gt; system. I am not recommending it personally, but would suggest you get one with similar attributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll need the isolator, some cabling (you'll have to figure out which gauge you'll need - also remember that the longer the run, the larger gauge you'll need to compensate), the battery (which you already have), battery tie down/mounting point, and connectors. I'm sure there are plenty of kits which you can purchase which will have everything besides the battery. If using a standard lead/acid battery, you do not want to mount it within the cabin of the vehicle, as it produces gasses when charging/discharging which can be hazardous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T21:48:05.487" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T21:48:05.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12439" CreationDate="2014-09-24T21:07:09.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received this information from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.driverside.com/service-schedule/detailview/acura-tsx-2009-23448-30947-56204&amp;amp;mileage=100000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;. It is the 100,000 mile maintenance service specification for the 2009 Acura TSX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Action:                 Description&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Rotate Tires&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Replace engine oil and filter&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect windshield wiper and washer systems and fluids levels&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect suspension components&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect steering linkage&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect power steering fluid level&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect half shaft dust boots&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect exhaust system&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect engine accessory drive belt&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect coolant recovery reservoir&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect clutch operation&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect brake fluid level&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect automatic/manual transmission fluid&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Inspect air cleaner/element&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Check turn signals and hazard warning lights&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Check shocks and struts&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Check radiator, coolers, heater, and A/C hoses&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Check battery, exterior lamps, and horn operation&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Replace spark plugs&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Replace PCV valve&#xA;Inspect/Adjust/Change   Replace coolant&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T21:07:09.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12423" CreationDate="2014-09-24T22:15:06.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;maintain&quot; I'm going to assume you are asking if it will provide enough air flow to do the work you need to do. If this is right, we'd need to know if your spray gun is a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) type spray gun. If so, the compressor should do you just fine. I would bet, though, if you are going to be doing a lot of painting with this, even with small parts, you'll want to get a better/bigger compressor at some point. This will probably wear out fairly quickly with continued use, especially if the parts get bigger over time. This type of compressor is not really rated for continued use, but for short sporadic use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor would be WAY more than enough to service the air needed for an air brush any way you look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are actually doing the work, you'll want to ensure you have a separator/drier/filter attached to the air line to ensure you are only getting air out of the hose and not contaminants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T22:15:06.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12430" CreationDate="2014-09-24T22:41:59.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this detailed explanation from a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belray.com/2-stroke-lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bel-Ray&lt;/a&gt;. Since I don't think I can explain it any better, I am going to copy it verbatim (while giving that company full credit and reference). ( &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Since I didn't write it and I don't believe it's included, I'll use the words &amp;quot;viscosity&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;temperature gradients&amp;quot; here just to ensure they're in the answer :-P I'm also assuming in my answer, you are asking about 4-stroke engine oil when you are saying 20-40 oil.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's their write-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been said that in order to make great coffee, you need to start with great water. A similar analogy can be made for 2-stroke lubricating oils. The base oil used in 2-stroke oil is often the most important performance enhancer and protector for a 2-stroke engine. The additives are important, but if you start with an inferior product, you end up with an inferior product. So why use a lubricant that lacks the necessary properties to fully protect your engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is an explanation of the types of lubricating base fluids as well as a recommendation for selecting the proper type of lubricant for a 2-stroke engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start, there are five basic types of lubricant base fluids you will typically find in most types of oil. They are known by the designations of group one through group five oils (I, II, III, IV, V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Group I oils are the least refined and the most basic types of mineral oils extracted from crude oil. These oils usually contain a high level of aromatic and volatile compounds, which dilute the true lubricating oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Group II oils are more refined and contain less of the impurities found in Group I oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Group III oils are the most highly refined mineral oils and contain very little impurities. These oils are sometimes legally termed as synthetic base oils because of the exceptionally refined nature of them, but are still technically mineral base oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Group IV oils are Polyalphaolefin (PAO) material, which is created through a chemical reaction. PAO is a type of polymer that is highly stable due to the uniform molecules. This uniformity helps it to retain its molecular structure through vast temperature differences and shearing conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Group V oils are synthetic esters that are also created through a chemical reaction. These substances generally have very high thermal stability as well as a high solubility with many substances. This solubility property makes the oils very proficient at cleaning the metal surfaces inside an engine as it dissolves the deposits and carries them to the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences between a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke engine are significant, and those differences demand different properties from the lubricant. Lubrication of the 2-stroke system requires a fluid that will form a tenacious film that will not be evaporated and will create a protective layer of oil over the entire piston surface. Unlike a 4-stroke engine, there is no oil submersion in a 2-stroke machine, so the film strength is one of the more important properties of a 2-stroke oil. It needs to withstand the heat and combustion of the fuel without burning and also needs to be able to clean the parts that may have carbon deposits or gummy residues left over from poor combustion or less effective lubricants. Since the thin film of lubricant is the only thing to stop the piston rings from grinding into the cylinder walls, these lubricants must be capable of protecting against high levels of pressure during the stroke of the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain 2-stroke lubricants are diluted with solvents to make them “clean burning” and provide “deposit control.” This is usually done to compensate for the lack of performance in the base fluid used. Since solvents tend to be highly flammable, the presence of them in the oil will also alter the combustion within the chamber. These solvents will alter the octane of the fuel and act as an impurity, causing detonation. Engines are designed to combust fuel, not the fuel and the extra flammables you’ll find in low quality lubricant products. The added combustion of part of the lubricant can result in a poor running engine or even engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the greatest balance of performance and protection, a fully synthetic 100% ester based lubricant is the best choice for a modern 2-cycle engine. This 100% synthetic ester base fluid gives a high level of detergency to ensure the elimination of carbon deposits and deter the formation of new performance-robbing deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ester based fluids will withstand great amounts of heat and will not burn in the combustion chamber. Since they do not burn, the emissions are clear of soot and ash that are commonly found when using lower grade lubricants. These esters naturally adhere to metal surfaces and create a very tenacious film, so when the lubricant is brought onto the piston, it creates a film and spreads along the surface to protect the entire component. This film is difficult to eliminate, therefore, the engine will remain lubricated through very harsh conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additives included in 2-stroke oils are also very important when considering component protection.  They enhance the intrinsic performance of the esters to complete this protection for an optimal running engine. Since the oil film on the parts is so complete and resolute, the corrosion protection is just as complete and resolute. When the film is spreading along the sides of the piston and coating the inside of the cylinder, it is stopping those surfaces from wearing down and leading to negative performance effects. So, the base oil is just as important as the additives it is carrying to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to 2-stroke oils, the base oil used is the most important aspect to consider. To gain maximum performance and protection for a machine, a 100% synthetic ester product is the best choice among current technologies and provides the most complete package for lubricating a 2-cycle engine. It won’t matter how great the additives of oil are if they never reach the components or the film is not sustained because of inferior base oil. Like the water carries the coffee flavors to your lips, the base oil carries protection to your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T22:41:59.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12198" CreationDate="2014-09-25T00:39:14.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To have this discussion, it is important to understand a few different lead acid battery types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;wet flooded cell&lt;/strong&gt; battery is a lead acid battery that, among other traits, makes use of case vents. This is one of the oldest battery technologies and is relatively high maintenance because the water in the battery will evaporate, requiring the owner to maintain the electrolyte level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;AGM&lt;/strong&gt; battery is a lead acid battery that has the electrolyte contained in a glass mat material. The acid absorbed in the glass mat containst just enough electrolyte to store energy, but not enough to have any freely flowing inside of the case. Because the AGM batteries do not have any freely flowing electrolyte and are maintenance free, they are often confused with gel batteries, though they are different from gel batteries in both technology and performance. The AGM lead acid battery is the most popular type of battery found in motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;gel&lt;/strong&gt; battery is a lead acid battery that uses a silica based gel to contain the electrolyte. Gel batteries are most popular in power supply applications such as a wheel chairs. Gel batteries have increased cycle life over other lead acid batteries but have the drawback of not being able to maintain high amounts of current in both charge and discharge. This drawback makes usage of gel batteries in automotive applications undesirable because both high discharge and recharge rates are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you describe of problems related to a battery being near an engine have to do with wet flooded cell batteries where the water in the electrolyte evaporates more rapidly because of the heat. This is not an issue for any sealed lead acid battery, such as an AGM battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only motorcycle manufacturer known to have used gel batteries is BMW, and generally only the OEM batteries from certain model years used gel technology. There is no modification required to replace a gel battery with an AGM battery, the AGM being the most popular type for sale for motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T00:39:14.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12412" CreationDate="2014-09-25T01:02:11.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paddock stand&lt;/strong&gt;: fast, easy, cheap, totally portable, and doesn't require much storage space. Holds the bike upright in a very stable condition so you can easily work on it. Requires the front* and rear suspension to be intact to use. Have to bend over and crawl on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* The front tire and forks must be installed unless you have a front stand (of which there are at least two variants, one that goes under the forks and one goes under the triple tree). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle lift&lt;/strong&gt;: I presume you mean a lift that goes under the or attaches to engine to support the bike. Much more expensive than the paddock stand, somewhat portable, requires some storage space (generally on the floor because of bulk and weight), and slightly more difficult to use. Holds the bike upright and very stable, but the bike usually shouldn't be mounted by a rider. Great for doing work that requires removing front and rear suspension on a bike with no center stand. Lifts the bike up higher than a paddock stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table lift&lt;/strong&gt;: Very easy to work on the bike as the component being worked on can always be at chest level. Note that the table lift should be used in conjunction with other lifts, as the table lift is really for increasing the height of the horizontal surface the bike is on. A popular method is to use wheel chocks and tie-downs for securing the bike while on the lift, though this is impractical when working on front suspension or wheel components. This generally requires dedicated floor space, is portable only in the sense that everything can be moved, and is more expensive than all other options, especially considering that other options are required to make full use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still many other stands that can be used to accomplish different or even the same goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:02:11.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2014-09-25T01:19:26.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we are talking street applications, then use an o-ring chain, which means 'degreasing' is unnecessary, just cleaning. I have never changed chains at less than 20,000 mile intervals, with one change out after 40,000 miles out of paranoia, though that bike has an oiler installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I do to clean is put the bike on a center stand or rear stand, then slowly turn the wheel with one hand while carefully removing the grime with a strong cotton shop rag, sometimes two depending on how dirty the chain is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then use an old school oil gun (you can get them at Home Depot) filled with biodegradable bar and chain (chainsaw) oil. I slowly turn the wheel and put ample oil across each pin on the chain, letting it sit at least over night. Any serious grime that didn't come off in the cloth will be thrown off the next time I take the bike out. Whole procedure takes less than 5 minutes, my chains are always spotless and last a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:19:26.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12098" CreationDate="2014-09-25T01:48:14.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Don't drop your helmet&quot; warning that comes with the helmet is pretty scary, but from the seat to the ground is a pretty short drop. If you were not riding on the freeway at the time, then it is unlikely you damaged the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Motorcycle Accident Cause Factors and Identification of Countermeasures: Technical report (1981)&quot;, Harry Hurt thoroughly investigated 900 motorcycle accidents, and noted that &quot;Very few protection failures were encountered. The only failures involved poly-carbonate shells which had deteriorated at areas of high residual stress and stress concentration, due to stress crazing and cracking.&quot; Rough handling is not mentioned as a problem, and he does note that &quot;Damage to the styrofoam liners from sizzy bars and mirrors was noticed but never contributed adersely in impact attenuation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harry Hurt also notes that most of the helmets he studied were built before 1974, (the study was performed around 1980) and I haven't seen a cracked plastic helmet since the 70's, so that seems to be a solved problem. If your helmet doesn't have a crack in it (and there is no reason it should,) it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7043" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T01:48:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12450" CreationDate="2014-09-25T04:27:37.997" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to change the motor in my 2004 Hyundai Sonata.  I bought a used one from the junkyard, and it fired right up after I got it put in, and all the wires, hoses, etc. connected.  The only thing that I don't have hooked up is the exhaust pipe.  I've got the manifolds on the motor, and the Y pipe is lined up on both of the manifolds.  The gaskets won't be here until the morning, so I just hand tightened the bolts.  The car is obviously loud, and runs pretty smooth.  I drove around the block, and it seems to want to &quot;fall flat&quot; when it gets to a shift point, and it won't shift.  The first time around the block there was no check engine light.  I came home and topped of the transmission and coolant, and ran around the block one last time.  It seemed to not run as strong, and the check engine light came on.  I am guessing that the O2 sensors, which only sit about 1&quot; above the connection between the Y pipe and the manifolds are not operating properly with the exhaust open.  Just curious if any other ideas are out there?  Do you think that finishing up the exhaust will fix this issue, or do I need to dig into the issue a bit more?  If I can get it to run and shift, I will take it into the auto parts store and have the codes checked.  Thanks for any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T22:21:37.760" Title="Exhaust on a replaced motor" Tags="|exhaust|o2-sensor|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12449" CreationDate="2014-09-25T06:26:09.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the check engine light on, the car is going to be running a fixed set of parameters from the Engine Control Module. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance Fuel Pressure will be held at max pressure and timing and spark adjustments (if done electronically) will not retard or advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons this happens is because the Engine Control Module is not recieving all of the needed information from the required sensors in order for it to calculate things like fuel mixture, timing (spark/valve), etc. This will also in turn affect transmission points. Where as Transmission Pressures are usually set to max during a fault situation and if the fault is specific to the Transmission then it will force only 2nd and 4th gears (limp home mode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all. Get that exhaust hung properly, clear all your codes, and repeat your test drive. As long as you didn't forget to plug something in somewhere and all the parts are good then, I think you will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T22:21:37.760" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T22:21:37.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-25T11:57:01.933" Score="1" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I inflate my tires to medium/recommended pressure the mileage is better and obviously when it is very low the mileage affected. But I want to know why my mileage affected even if I keep pressure above recommended values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T11:25:08.603" Title="More air pressure in tyre Vs Mileage" Tags="|tires|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12451" CreationDate="2014-09-25T12:13:37.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your tyre pressure is lower,there is more rubber in contact with the road, so your engine has to work a little harder to keep you moving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T12:13:37.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12451" CreationDate="2014-09-25T13:02:15.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve heard folks claim mileage gains by running their tire pressure above the manufacturer’s recommendations. In theory, that makes sense: With more inflation pressure, the tire bulges in the center of the tread and creates a smaller, skinnier contact patch with the road. This should mean less rolling resistance and increased mileage. we know under-inflated tires have a negative effect on fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T13:02:15.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12451" CreationDate="2014-09-25T15:35:38.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recommended values give you the handling and tire wear that the manufacturer intends for the vehicle.  If you increase above that, the contact patch decreases, giving better gas mileage, but you start sacrificing handling and causing abnormal tire wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T15:35:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12460" CreationDate="2014-09-25T17:16:58.040" Score="2" ViewCount="4966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been dealing with an elusive CE light and some shaking of my car for a while now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a while it was just shaking occasionally, I thought it was a moisture problem, but that doesn't seem to be the case. The car is a 2005 Mazda M3. I read that these cars sometimes come with a defective engine mount that is too soft, and this looked to be the case to me. The CE light was coming up as intake runner control and also an o2 sensor, but my mechanic didn't think these were the problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently it started some new behavior. Every morning for the past week or so, my car will stall once, then start fine the second time. Except this A.M. it started fine. The check engine light came on a few days ago, but has since went off. I realized that this started the morning after fueling up, or at least I think. I fueled up at a gas station that I don't usually go to but started going to recently for convenience purposes. My fuel consumption has been horrible, I'm already almost empty again. &#xA;It's a fast track, which is a fairly large chain, so I thought I could trust their gas. Would bad gas cause the stalling or misfires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, could a problem with the fuel system itself cause stalling or the shaking? The shaking isn't only when idling, it's when the car is warming up. Even when I'm in 4th gear it will happen as it's warming up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I even find out what type of gas I should be using for this car (I got it recently, used)? I have been just using regular, could this cause it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't get it into shop for another week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6543" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T09:08:31.097" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T09:08:31.097" Title="Car stalling in the morning" Tags="|fuel-system|mazda|fuel-consumption|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-25T17:38:46.900" Score="2" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cavaliers are known for transmissions going bad, and my Cavalier's transmission was making a horrible grinding noise going into fifth. Double clutching seemed to be working until it started grinding in third, so we switched trannys but it's still grinding, and now in fourth gear too. The clutch is new, as are the master and slave cylinders, and we bled the clutch after putting in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to fix this myself, but what could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7045" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:32:44.670" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:32:44.670" Title="Why are gears still grinding after replacing transmission, clutch, and hydraulic cylinders?" Tags="|chevrolet|clutch|manual-transmission|gears|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12456" CreationDate="2014-09-25T18:19:29.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is your original transmission was having a synchro issue at the 5th gear, which migrated to the 3rd gear synchro. When I say &quot;migrated&quot; I mean that it too is worn out, not that there is an &quot;infection which is spreading&quot;. I would venture to assume your new-to-you transmission suffers from the same fate. If you bought the transmission new or used, it should have some type of warranty on it (probably 30-day on a used or 36 month/36k mile if new). Get a replacement for it as long as a warranty is available (obviously if you bought it from an individual, you won't have that option).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is anything else you've done, considering the only other thing which could really be causing this is the hydraulic actuator, but you've already bled it. Plus, if it were clutch related, it would have issues in all of the gears and it wouldn't grind. It would just be hard to get it into gear (the exception being reverse, as most reverse gears do not have a synchro). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T18:19:29.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12451" CreationDate="2014-09-25T18:29:58.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn your steering wheel, even ever so slightly: as the tyres turn the tread on the tyre 'shuffles'. The more your tread shuffles, the greater the tyre wear. The manufactures recommended pressures will give you the optimum performance and wear from your tyres. Under inflation allows the edges of the tyres to take all the load and shuffle-increasing tyre wear on the outside edges. Over inflation causes the tread to be stiffer in the centre of the tread area, allowing the treads central area to take a greater share of the load and increased shuffle-increasing tyre wear to the central tread area. Use the recommended pressures from your vehicles manufacturer for optimum/maximum tyre life, and fuel economy derived from the correct/optimum rolling resistence for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T18:29:58.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-25T19:15:29.207" Score="6" ViewCount="49087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theres oil in the radiator and the overflow tank of my 2002 GMC Envoy. The oil is fine, and has no water in it. The SUV gets regular oil changes, and the oil presure is fine. Water temperature is mostly normal, never overheating (not yet anyways). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's got me stumped is that the oil is not low despite the amount in the coolant, and the oil does not have water or antifreeze in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a blown head gasket? Or maybe someone at the oil change station had no clue what they were doing and put oil in the overflow tank? I noticed this oil about 6 days after changing the oil, when the sixth cylinder started to misfire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed all the plugs and coils, but in the process found oil in the overflow tank. Engine is running fine and sounds normal at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7046" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T20:53:33.637" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T16:20:00.877" Title="Lots of oil in radiator, but no coolant in oil and oil is not low" Tags="|engine|oil|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12455" CreationDate="2014-09-25T22:13:17.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this could definitely be cause by bad fuel. It would probably do good for you to put a bottle or two of gas treatment into your tank. Put it in and run the fuel down to near empty (not all the way, but run it down to about an 1/8th tank), then fill the tank full with gas from a known good source. You may ask how do you figure out which gas is good? Usually it comes from busy gas stations. When they are turning their fuel over quickly it doesn't have a chance to pick up a lot of water sitting in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what octane of fuel to run, a good rule of thumb is to run the lowest octane you can run without pining occurring. Usually, the only vehicles which require higher octane fuel are those which either turbo- or supercharged (like a lot of VW/Audis), or are specifically high performance vehicles (like a Corvette). I would venture to assume you Mazda3 should only be using 87 octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T22:13:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12459" CreationDate="2014-09-25T22:57:26.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be someone put oil by mistake, I had lady friend took car to have oil changed and after about a block or 2 Engine lock up. They FORGOT to put oil in so things can happen. I'd flush rad a few times and test drive see if it happens again. Also does it have a trans cooler seperate from radiator or does it have lines in the rad for cooling, that could put oil in radiator and I am guessing that it could push fluid back to over flow tank.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7042" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T22:57:26.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12470" CreationDate="2014-09-26T01:10:25.797" Score="9" ViewCount="31389" Body="&lt;p&gt;To preface, I would grade my exhaust knowledge with a &quot;B-&quot;.  I know what the major components are and what they do, but I don't know if and when certain exhaust parts became mandated or introduced over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love how a throaty late-60's/early-70's muscle car exhaust sounds.  Gnarly, a bit raspy, yet throaty and with some oomph.  But when I hear most current muscle cars - 90s and on - the exhaust is mostly deep and loud, with little of the raw or explosive sound that the classic cars have.  The classic muscle cars sound very similar to an inboard/outboard boat engine, where the contemporary muscle cars rarely achieve that note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples to describe what I notice... (site won't let me post more than 2 links, I posted the most representative examples of what I'm describing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic sound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFWfR9WCWe8&amp;amp;t=1m13s&quot;&gt;1970 Charger - 40 sec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current Sound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54ewlMQ-yK4&amp;amp;t=1m0s&quot;&gt;2014 Mustang - 20 sec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I understand straight pipes make it louder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I understand bigger cams stagger the rhythm of the revolutions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything inherent that causes the discrepancy in exhaust note?  Or do modern manufacturers and modern aftermarket performance companies prefer the &quot;newer&quot; sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T03:15:22.903" Title="What does it take for a modern muscle car to sound like a classic muscle car?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8602" CreationDate="2014-09-26T06:11:14.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I ended up purchasing the considerably cheaper model, the one without the &lt;code&gt;BB&lt;/code&gt; degination: &lt;code&gt;Bridgestone Battlax 021 180/55 ZR 17 (73W) TL&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examining the tires (both, old and new) revealed no noticeable difference. The behavior of the bike seems unaltered by the change of the tire model. I say this having ridden around 7000 kms using the new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short: there is no significant difference. Get the cheaper model and with the money you saved you can get yourself some nice new leather gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted Bridgestone customer support (in February) asking what the difference between the models is. I have received no response from them. With this in mind I came to the conclusion that this is simply a petty attempt to charge a little extra for your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T06:11:14.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12459" CreationDate="2014-09-26T08:55:23.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume you took the vehicle somewhere and had them change the oil? I would put money on it whoever that someone was, put oil in the overflow by mistake, realized they did it, and put oil in the crankcase while not saying anything about the overflow. The key to me for this is when you said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Im talking about at least a quart of oil in the overflow bottle im talking straight up oil like i just poured a bottle right in there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was this way, you'd expect to see some oil get into the radiator as the expansion/contraction of the radiator fluid inside the cooling system is going on during normal operation. It probably wouldn't draw much in, just enough to make a mess. I think you cooling system and head are going to be just fine. Sounds like you already flushed it at least once. I would run it and see if it comes back. You may see a little residual. If so, flush it one more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, the oil under the cap would be normal for this type of situation. Just clean it up really well and it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T08:55:23.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12471" CreationDate="2014-09-26T09:33:46.307" Score="3" ViewCount="3617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just imported car from japan, I had to drive 1000km from shipping port to get it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is Battery turned out to be plain dead. I stopped once at the fuel station and couldn't get it back online around halfway through my journay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being stranded, I tried multiple times. Waited few minutes and tried again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could hear starter click, but engine wouldn't come online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this, could I've caused permanent damage to my car trying to start it on low battery? I tried like 6 times before giving up and looking for jumpstart cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7051" LastEditorDisplayName="user7051" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T10:17:52.983" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T11:42:13.227" Title="can starting a battery dead car cause damage to anything?" Tags="|starter|jump-start|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2014-09-26T09:37:07.823" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has very little to do with the exhaust system and much to do with the mechanics of the engine.  All modern muscle cars have aluminium blocks (vs cast iron), round exhaust ports (vs rectangle), and completely different timing set ups than 60s cars have. The firing order makes a big difference because nobody fires 2 in a row on the same side of the engine anymore.  Thus engines have much better balance now and are smoother sounding.  It's also one of the reasons red lines are so much higher.  The thin walled aluminium blocks and heads resonates sound much differently than cast iron did and even things like 6 bolt mains change engine resonance through the block giving you a tighter tinny sound.  Of course just like air blowing over valves in a trumpet the shape of the combustion chambers and round exhaust ports changes the exhaust note too.  In short the only way to get the 60s sound is with a 60s car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth I have tried nearly everything to get my LS1 Miata to sound like a real muscle car! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7052" LastEditorUserId="7052" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T09:42:45.403" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T09:42:45.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2014-09-26T11:09:41.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything sensitive enough to be destroyed by an undervoltage condition will at least be protected by a relay, so it is highly unlikely you have damaged anything in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T11:09:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-26T16:03:05.700" Score="0" ViewCount="3989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently driving a 1998 Polo 3 known 6n (1.0 petrol) and i have issue when changing my 3rd gear, especially when the car is cold. It pop out while i'm changing 3rd gear and other times it will be fine. I have not taken to a mechanic yet, please help me with your experiences find out the degree of this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7054" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:31:07.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:31:07.960" Title="manual transmission issue when changing 3rd gear with polo 3 1998" Tags="|vw|manual-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-26T21:42:34.517" Score="1" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced top and bottom radiator hoses and car has new water pump. It's an '86 mercury grand marquis. Once I replaced everything and filled the radiator with 50/50, I cranked the car up. Soon as I did, from underneath the car all the coolant came out on the ground.  Where do I look next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T20:10:05.047" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T20:10:05.047" Title="Loss of coolant from under car" Tags="|coolant|mercury|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12477" CreationDate="2014-09-26T22:21:10.583" Score="3" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Pontiac Bonnyville that's leaking brake fluid. Recently the brake warning light came on and I noticed the fluid was low. I filled it again but it's slowly leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid is leaking at the point where the bottom of master cylinder meets the booster. There's an 1/8&quot; wide bead of fluid dripping straight down and over the booster and then onto the ground.  It doesn't appear that the fluid is leaking from the booster where it meets the firewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pedal feels fine and doesn't sag to the floor while waiting in traffic. It doesn't stop like a Porsche but the stopping performance seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I replace the booster as well as the master cylinder? How can I tell if the booster is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car is a ticking timebomb and i'm hoping to have it for less than 6 more months. However I don't want to be reckless to save a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7059" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T15:05:43.793" Title="Brake Fluid Leaking out of Master Cylinder but on Top of Booster" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|bonneville|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12476" CreationDate="2014-09-26T22:45:32.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just need to replace the master cylinder, the booster should be fine. The piston in the master cylinder is bad and is leaking against the booster. That's the only place for the fluid to come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T22:45:32.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12475" CreationDate="2014-09-27T00:06:26.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things to look for here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Localize where the fluid is actually coming from. Doing this will allow you to take the next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure you put all of the hoses back in place correctly. It is easy to get one cocked in the wrong direction, where you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you go it right, but you don't. Check all of them to make sure they are completely in place, not just partially stuck onto the radiator or water pump outlets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the hose clamps are put on correctly. If the hose clamp is over the end of the hose, even by a little bit, it will leak. You must be able to see rubber past the side of the hose clamp all the way around or it will leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to see if you closed the petcock on the radiator if you used it to drain your radiator in the first place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to ensure your water pump is sealed correctly. It may be just slightly off somewhere where it needs to seal and is allowing the fluid to drain from there. If so, re-tighten/reseal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; You don't state if the reason for the replacement in the first place, but I'd assume it was not leaking like what you describe above. If it was leaking before, usually it would be a leak out of the &quot;weep&quot; or &quot;pee&quot; hole (as commonly referred to). This would produce a minor leak. What you are describing is a major leak. If so, &lt;em&gt;it would have to be something you have/haven't done to the vehicle in the process of replacing the pump/hoses&lt;/em&gt;. That is why you need to go back and recheck your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T11:56:15.853" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T11:56:15.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T05:15:02.910" Score="0" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98dodge neon, and all the electrical works but my starter will not even click, nothing else is a problem only the starter I've checked all the connections and break pedal and gearshift it's an automatic they all seem good and tight  what else could be the problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7060" LastEditorUserId="7060" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T05:22:53.230" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:53:18.920" Title="I have a 98 neon that won't start" Tags="|dodge|starter|neon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12479" CreationDate="2014-09-27T11:50:07.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the starter off, take it down to your nearest AutoZone/O'Reilly's/Checker/etc. auto parts store and have them bench check it for you. I'll bet your solenoid is no longer functioning, and therefor your starter has quit working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T11:50:07.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:20:17.490" Score="2" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the lights in my car work, but when I turn the key, you only hear the slightest click sound. That's it! Lately there's been a delay when trying to start it. I've had to hold the key turned longer. I need to get this fixed ASAP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7061" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T16:21:06.197" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T07:07:27.520" Title="Car won't crank, turn over, or start" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12474" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:51:57.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ther are two main areas for this to happen with third gear on your Polo. Firstly, the gear change linkage: The linkage is connected to the gearbox selector shaft by a small 10mm bolt. This bolt can come loose after time, and allow the shafts to pass over each other instead of moving the selectors to fully engage gear. Third/fourth selection is in a straight line to the box and is more likely to slide along/over its detent. The rest of the linkage has rubber mountings, which can become worn and again prevent full engagement of the third gear. They are checked from under the vehicle with an assistant changing gears, engine off, for the loose bolt or worn linkage. The second area is internal to the box: Third/fourth hub and clutch select these gears and when selected are retained in place by a small metal detent(slipper). The detent can become worn and fail to cause the detent of the third speed, allowing it to 'jump out of gear'. A further cause is that all of the assemblies for gear changing are mounted on the gearbox mainshaft(third motion shaft) which has a shimmed end float. Third gear being on one end of the mainshaft makes it susceptable to any increase in end float(wear) and allows the third/fourth hub to drop third if wear in box/bearings allows excessive end float. A test of the box would be for noise. With the vehicle idling in neutral, press the clutch pedal to the floor. If any transmission noise goes away-goes quiet, you could have worn bearings. Now drive the vehicle on the road at about 30 MPH-50 KM/HR i third and allow the vehicle to coast(slow down by itself-foot off of the accelerator). If it jumps out of gear now then you have wear on the mainshaft or hub and clutch assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T14:51:57.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2014-09-27T15:00:55.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the starter/solonoid for operation. The electrical system must be checked for correct voltages from battery to starter motor. A quick and dirty thing you can do, as it seems to work intermittantly, is to give the starter motor a couple of firm clouts with a hammer and then try starting. If the starter is on its way out, this will cause it to operate again, especially if the problem is with the starters brushes sticking. Electrical checks before changing the starter/solonoid assembly though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T15:00:55.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12476" CreationDate="2014-09-27T15:05:43.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any brake fluid leak what-so-ever should be repaired immediately. Your master cylinder requires to be changed before driving the vehicle at all on the road. That is unequivical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T15:05:43.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T20:34:21.647" Score="6" ViewCount="190398" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Honda Accord. Replaced the fuses even though fuse looked good. Took it in to have bulbs replaced but still did nothing. Went on vacation for about 2 weeks, car was in the garage. Came back used it first night everything fine. Next day went to turn on headlights and both were out, but high beams worked. Low beams aren't working but high beams work. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7063" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T22:59:44.443" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T18:16:42.173" Title="Low beams out high beams work" Tags="|honda|headlight|accord|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2014-09-27T23:17:31.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the problem lies in the relay, which should be located under the hood. It should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQYnt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture from Mouser Electronics&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the high beams and low beams will have their own relay. The switch which is only used to energize the relay. The relay provides the power for the head lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The underhood fuse box should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tc7Dq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the underside of the cover, there should be a diagram showing which ones the relays are. Each for the high-beams and low-beams should have the same type of relay, so you can swap them out to see if this is your issue. If this is the issue, it will get you to the parts store so you can pick up a new one as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relays don't usually go bad, but like all mechanical things, they don't last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T23:17:31.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2014-09-28T09:27:41.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fuse box, as shown in the picture: Left-low beam is fuse F1, right-low beam is F6. Also look at the two 40amp fuses, marked F15 and F19. These two 40 amp fuses feed the other fuses. Fuses F1 to F4 are supply-fused by F19, and fuses F5 to F9 are supply-fused by F15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T09:27:41.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T21:16:44.440" Score="5" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;96 GMC K1500 Suburban. Falters/stalls. Intermittent. So far low speed/parking lot acceleration from stop. Also deceleration low speed as in coming to stop. Radio cuts in and out around the time of the event. First happened under damp conditions but has happened during dry conditions as well. Restarts immediately if it stalls and runs well and smoothly otherwise giving no indication of problem.Have cleaned corrosion from battery terminal but still occurring. Acts as though key were backed off briefly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7071" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T22:32:21.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T22:32:21.800" Title="96 Suburban intermittent falter/stall immediate restart" Tags="|engine|stall|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T21:40:19.587" Score="4" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2005 Chrysler Pacifica touring edition. A mechanic connected the two hoses together that should be connected to the heater core, because we had a water leak and he thought it would fix it. Well it didn't and the mechanic cannot be located. I'm trying to figure out which hose goes to the top and which goes to the bottom of the heater core?&#xA;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7072" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:54:03.413" Title="Pacifica heater core hose reconnect" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-29T00:05:09.113" Score="6" ViewCount="11584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford F-150 pickup.  When I refueled it yesterday, I noticed a strong gasoline smell and an oily liquid (presumably gasoline) dripping down off the bottom of the fuel tank.  Only a small amount had spilled (perhaps a few ounces) so I stopped fueling and drove the truck home.  There is no evidence of anything leaking while the truck is parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research on &lt;a href=&quot;http://ask.metafilter.com/203553/Am-I-driving-a-bomb&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=170&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sites&lt;/a&gt; suggests that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;this is probably a leak in either the fuel filler neck or the rubber hose that connects it to the fuel tank - not a leak in the tank itself or the fuel line;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it is relatively inexpensive to fix;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the vehicle is reasonably safe to drive in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems plausible to me.  Fuel leaking from the filler neck or rubber hose would drip down onto the top of the fuel tank and then eventually run down off the bottom of the tank.  And the rubber hose in particular seems to be brittle to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggested cause was overflow, but the dripping started well before the tank was full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a second opinion from this community as to the probable cause, and whether the vehicle can safely be driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T17:42:52.290" Title="Possible fuel filler leak in F-150 truck" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|leak|fuel-tank|f-150|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2014-09-29T00:48:44.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was just a spider laying eggs in the valve.  Asked the dealer to try blowing it out with the compressed air.  Been working ever since, no problems.  Apparently the spiders like the smell of inside there and this is a somewhat common problem documented in the service knowledge bases for this car and several others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="693" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T00:48:44.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12494" CreationDate="2014-09-29T01:17:53.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you're right in your diagnosis and, yes, it should be safe to drive on a minimal basis. The only issue you might see is a check engine light due to the tank not being sealed completely. Also, your fuel will absorb more water than it would otherwise, though this will still be only a small amount. Be careful while fueling and get the repair done as soon as possible to avoid any larger issues. Leaking fuel is, obviously, nothing to fool around with. (I almost said &quot;fuel around with&quot; but thought that might be too cheesy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T11:21:21.870" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T11:21:21.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12505" CreationDate="2014-09-29T03:46:02.923" Score="3" ViewCount="2242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Galant 2003 with a 2.0l 4G63 engine. Since I refueled my car, issues started to arise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the car gave sudden knock and the engine check light turned on. From then onward, the car's performance dropped to nothing, which was fixed by an engine tuneup reset and an inclusion of Soltron fuel treatment enzyme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after that, I have noticed that the car's cold start was not as it used to be. I have to start the car at least two times, as on the first cold start the RPMs drop and the car turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is cause by the failure of the air flow sensor, the tuning or the battery or if it is an entirely another problem. What should I be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T02:52:19.787" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:40:51.520" Title="Cold start issues with EFI : have to start twice" Tags="|mitsubishi|cold-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12479" CreationDate="2014-09-29T10:26:25.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not getting any clicking from the starter, that means the solenoid is not engaging. 99% chance that it is the starter. Remove the starter and take it for a test to any local shop. Make sure it produces at least 60 amps of current or it will not turn your engine over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More help available &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1777/the-car-wont-start-not-even-click-but-everything-else-works-fine-in-the-car&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T10:26:25.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T02:03:42.940" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee LE. This has only happened twice: driving between 35-50 mph when suddenly a loud sort of fluttering sound accompanied by a loud whine. The whine evoked the picture of a straining engine, as if something were dragging inside it. This lasts only until the car stops, and is gone once the engine is restarted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened once a year ago, mechanic couldn't reproduce it. Finally happened again last week, but again disappeared after restarting the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's such a violent sound I worry something very damaging is occurring, but there's no consistency to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The fluttering sound can also be heard some when accelerating uphill, but the straining noise has only happened those two times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="776" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T21:59:43.130" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:25:13.660" Title="Spontaneous flutter / roar sound coming from under hood?" Tags="|jeep|noise|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:52:48.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12506" CreationDate="2014-09-30T03:40:08.697" Score="1" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking to my son today about a random theory of a friend of mine. His theory was that speedometers are typically set so that 12 o' clock is the optimal speed for freeway driving in that particular car. So a car with a more powerful engine might put 70mph at the top, while a car with a weaker engine would put say 55mph up at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... how &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; speedometer dial ranges set for a given car? Is the max speed set to the fastest the car can reasonably go? Is the preferred freeway speed up at the top of the dial? It's got me curious now -- I know there's wide variations between makes, but there's probably some method to how speed is displayed to the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7079" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T08:13:55.923" Title="Speedometer dial ranges" Tags="|speedometer|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2014-09-30T07:07:27.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same behavior, then go to service and they repair my starter. It is cheap operation in my country (Belarus). You need to find service that can remove your starter and send to repairment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T07:07:27.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12499" CreationDate="2014-09-30T07:10:24.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to use some acceleration after start (about 10% of throttle pedal). If it helps then check your idle air control valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T07:10:24.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2014-09-30T08:13:55.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many variations, and no consistent method across manufacturers. That said, your theory is not correct - you are more likely to get the legal highway speed somewhere near the top because that is an area where the eye can easily see variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even within manufacturers there seems to be a lack of consistency. Where they use the same clocks across multiple models, then obviously the dials will look the same or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The max speed on a speedo is always going to be higher than the max speed of the car by default - where clocks are used across models, the max speed will be higher than the fastest model will drive so the bottom spec model using that hardware may seem to have a lot of headroom on the speed display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, for cars that are known to have a strong modding scene, you often find speedos have more headroom - as an example, my Subaru has a speedo that goes up to 240mph, despite the fact that it is not capable of going above 190mph without some serious work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T08:13:55.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16773" CreationDate="2014-09-30T10:05:26.527" Score="4" ViewCount="31307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Royal Enfield Classic 350. At idle, the engine starts to produce a TICK TICK sound. However it vanishes when the rpm rises and when riding the motorcycle. This question is a very frequently asked question in many of the popular firms and even in that of the Royal Enfield official forums. The official Service center personnel told that its the sound of Automatic De-Compression occurring inside the new UCE (since 2010) engine. (Yes, in the older CI model Royal Enfield Engines, the rider had to manually De-Compress the engine before Kick Starting or else it the kicker would back fire). And i thought decompression was only required at the starting of the Engine or just before the ignition would start and does not have to be done while the engine is running. What really worries me is that i have heard this sound in many other bikes when the piston hits the tappet. OR on other words this is the sound of the piston hitting the tappet or the valves.. Needless to say, improper timing and wrong timing causes the piston to ht the tappet. Due to improper maintenance and &quot;Do it yourself modifications&quot; many of my friends have produced the same sound and eventually had to consult a mechanic to fix the issue. I really don't think its the sound of auto decompression. Any thoughts??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T14:58:56.197" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T14:58:56.197" Title="Tick Tick sound from a Royal Enfield Classic 350 at idle" Tags="|motorcycle|enfield-classic|valve-timing|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T10:56:15.157" Score="3" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have KIA Sedona 06 CRDi. It went into the garage for a major service: timing belt; serpentine belt; filters; brakes; etc. I got it back running perfect. 2 days later it won't start.  It cranks over and nearly gets there but doesn't. I have to use easy start to start it from cold. When the engine is warm, it will start first time. The car has no codes stored, so I don't know what to try next. The injectors and fuel pump have been checked and are in full working order. When started and it warms up it runs perfect, but stalls when the engine is not warm enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7080" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T11:28:46.950" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T11:28:46.950" Title="Kia Sedona CRDi cranks but won't start" Tags="|engine|kia|sedona|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T17:24:42.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12558" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:42:52.667" Score="1" ViewCount="4278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i bought an amplifier and matching subwoofer (1200watts amp with dual 10&quot; 800 watts subwoofer). Now i've been looking for a replacement dash panel for a seat ibiza for some time now and yesterday an offer passed my attention which i just couldn't pass. So i ended up buying the set. Now i'm wondering if it's at all possible to connect the sub and amp to my stock sound installation. If its not possible are there any workarounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:33:50.893" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:33:50.893" Title="Possible to connect a amp and sub to a stock 2001 seat ibiza radio" Tags="|audio|seat-ibiza|seat-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12499" CreationDate="2014-09-30T15:40:51.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen these symptoms once before.  In that particular case it turned out to be a failing igniter/power transistor.  Went on for nearly 2 years before the cause was isolated, but the igniter module had developed a crack and was arcing badly on first start, but somehow working properly on second start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:40:51.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11163" CreationDate="2014-09-30T15:45:21.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar problem.  Alternator voltage regulator failed and the alternator was overcharging.  Freaked out the car electronics and fried the battery.  Replaced alternator and battery and all was well in that case, HOWEVER, wiring damage could also occur, which may take pulling the harness and inspecting the wiring (which I've also had to do after having an actual electrical fire after a fuse failed to break a shorted connection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:45:21.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T22:55:25.120" Score="0" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 08 Kia Rio 5. A mechanic recently rebuild the engine, replaced water pump, changed timing belts etc etc, but now it's leaking oil - not just that, I also found sludge in the radiator and loosing oil. The car is drivable, not overheating, shifts smoothly, just the leaking.&#xA;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7082" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T08:45:54.130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T18:42:54.960" Title="Sludge in the radiator" Tags="|engine|kia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2014-09-30T23:01:08.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it back to the mechanic who did the work and have him redo everything. Sounds as though there is an internal oil leak which is dumping oil into the coolant system. It could be as simple as a gasket out of place or as bad as a crack somewhere. Whatever the deal is, the mechanic should have caught the issue while putting it back together. Since you paid for the job, you are due the job done right. Make them take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T23:01:08.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12523" CreationDate="2014-10-01T00:28:36.800" Score="2" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My front passenger-side window switch will only roll the window down, but the driver's switch can roll it both up and down. There's only one motor, right? so there must be a problem with the switch. I'm pretty handy, but am a newbie to auto mechanics, so I'm reluctant to just start opening up the panel. Does this problem allow for a complete diagnosis, or will I need to do more testing? If the diagnosis is clear, what steps need to be taken to treat this? Will I need a new switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T09:09:31.427" Title="passenger window switch unidirectional, driver's switch bidirectional. diagnosis &amp; treatment?" Tags="|subaru|power-windows|impreza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T03:19:49.903" Score="0" ViewCount="2056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the drive belt on my 49cc scooter. But when I did, it won't drive and for me to start it I have to make sure the back tire isn't touching the ground. If the back tire is stopped in any way such as hitting the back brakes or having the tyre on the ground it shuts off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When its idling the back tire spins fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure its a Japanese scooter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7086" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T08:19:46.360" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T16:54:56.697" Title="49cc scooter shuts off after back tire stops or touches ground" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12522" CreationDate="2014-10-01T03:44:40.480" Score="2" ViewCount="6497" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've got a 07 eclise 2.4. It ran fine on my way to work, but when I shut it off it wouldn't start again. I checked the basics (fuses, battery, plugs, coils) with no success. I then checked the cam and crank shaft sensors. Crank worked, cam no go. Replaced the camshaft sensor, still no go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cracked the timing belt cover and tried to start the engine. I could only see the cam sprocket, but it wasn't turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not expert, but from my understanding of engines, I can't think of any reason for this other than the timing belt being broken. Is there any reason that turning the starter would turn the crank but not the timing belt and thus cams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T19:07:03.297" Title="If the timing belt doesn't turn with the starter, is it broken?" Tags="|timing-belt|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T08:33:03.850" Score="1" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy an 06-08 Forester XT and on Friday I went to test drive an Automatic. Now, I know the auto box isn't the best and the forester weighs a good 300kg/600lbs more than my Astra Coupe, but it just felt like it wasn't going anywhere. It's supposed to have about the same power and torque figures as my Astra, but it felt like it wasn't coming on boost at all and I heard a distinct hissing sound from around 3000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, not being familiar with the forester XT and not having driven an automatic anything before, I can't tell if there was something wrong with it. The salesman seems to think the car is perfect, but it just didn't feel like a 169kW/230BHP car. I didn't feel any sort of push back into my seat when I floored it and as I said, the hissing sound may or may not point to a boost leak, but I don't know. My knowledge is limited to Vauxhall/Opel performance engines so I can't tell what is and what is NOT normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? How SHOULD the 2006 Forester XT feel under full acceleration? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T08:33:03.850" Title="Subaru Forester XT has a hissing sound under acceleration and lacks power" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T06:36:09.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2014-10-01T08:49:02.437" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;cc is nothing but the total displacement volume of a piston inside the cylinder. as cc increases, there will be more intake of air fuel mixture and output power ofthe engine will increase...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7089" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T08:49:02.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12518" CreationDate="2014-10-01T09:03:37.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar problem on a Volvo a few years ago, in that case it turned out that the belt had stripped a couple of inches of teeth - so peering in the cover it looked intact, but didn't turn with the crank. This will become obvious if you remove the cover completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be lucky though - a quick bit of googling reveals &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/717ke-2007-eclipse-2-4-liter-lost-timing-belt-valve.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 2006-2012 2.4 dual MIVEC engines are extremely small margin interference... in fact I have not seen one instance of valve damage on the final design 2.4's when the belt breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might be able to get away with simply replacing the belt (and any tensioners), without any further damage to the engine. I wasn't so lucky and had several bent valves...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other reasons I can think of for the cambelt not turning with the engine would be a broken crank (which would be very obvious!), or the starter not engaging with the flywheel (which you've ruled out if the crank is turning)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T09:03:37.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12516" CreationDate="2014-10-01T09:09:31.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already fixed it, but I'll provide an answer for posterity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely causes of this are a faulty switch or faulty wiring. The switch can be easily tested by swapping it out for another (e.g. one of the back ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring in car doors is notorious for failing, as the wires all have to go from the door through the 'snake' to the car body, and can fail through either fatigue from the constant flexing, or from wear if they are allowed to rub against the metalwork at either end - this is common where people have made aftermarket changes to the audio system and have disturbed the snake to add more wires. If replacing the switch doesn't fix it, identifying the appropriate wire and bypassing it often can...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T09:09:31.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12517" CreationDate="2014-10-01T10:32:30.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not knowing your scooter model/brand, I would suggest the problem is the centripetal clutch is hanging (or engaging all of the time). You may have made the belt too tight in the process of replacement. If you replace the clutch as well, it probably needs adjusted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T10:32:30.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12177" CreationDate="2014-10-01T12:19:20.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a common issue on this era Saab 9-5 with the blend door arm breaking.  If your heat is coming out one side, but not the other this may be the case.  In any event it can be checked without removing the box (and without incurring huge labor cost).  I would recommend determining if this is the issue as the fix is only a couple hundred bucks with labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repair kit can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/8032/Blend-Door-Repair-Kit-BDKIT/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/8032/Blend-Door-Repair-Kit-BDKIT/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure to fix it is at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/TechNotes/BDKIT_95_Repair_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/TechNotes/BDKIT_95_Repair_Instructions.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1475" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:19:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12531" CreationDate="2014-10-01T12:50:29.583" Score="2" ViewCount="32493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed some rust formation on the rear rotor. I am able to scrape the rust off with a hard toothbrush. I noticed other rotors, but they appear to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to get rid of rust on the brake rotors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I do not have the tools/skills required to remove the rotor and the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T16:51:30.687" Title="Remove rust from brake rotors" Tags="|brake-rotor|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T14:08:56.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had new tires put on a 2002 dodge ram and then new brakes and rotors. Took truck on highway and had shaking after 70 mph. The truck did not shake before all the new stuff. U joints are fine. Help!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T01:01:54.453" Title="New Tires and entire truck shakes after 70 mph" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12527" CreationDate="2014-10-01T15:15:27.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's light enough that it'll scrape off with a toothbrush then it'll be scrubbed off by the pads the first time you use the brakes - i.e. don't worry about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite normal on any car that has been sitting for more than a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T15:15:27.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12528" CreationDate="2014-10-01T15:43:49.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it back to where you had the tires put on, either they aren't balanced correctly or you have a bad tire (Broken Belt, out of round etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T01:01:54.453" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T01:01:54.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12527" CreationDate="2014-10-01T17:07:19.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the rust at? If it is on the outer edges and/or on the hat area (part in the center where the brake pad does not ride), there's probably absolutely nothing wrong with the brake rotor in the first place. As long as the wear area where the pad does it's business is clear, you have no issues. Only brake rotors which have been treated with some type of anti-rust agent (like zinc plating) will not rust in these areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand it is where the pad should be riding at, you may (as @Paul was suggesting) have an issue with your caliper being stuck or possibly not sliding correctly on its pins. Since you said you don't have any means of removing the brake rotor yourself, you'd need to take it to a brake/mechanic's shop to have it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T17:07:19.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12533" CreationDate="2014-10-01T18:30:56.560" Score="3" ViewCount="8608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking to buy a used BMW and realised that the one I liked has timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more used to timing belts and know that they cost about £200 ($320) to replace. However, I don't have any experience in timing chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it gonna cost me a lot because the car has done around 86000 miles and the owner informed me that he replaced the timing chain a few thousand miles ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your advice is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T12:08:28.303" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T00:56:48.420" Title="Correct procedure and cost repair BMW timing chain (BMW 318ti)" Tags="|bmw|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12532" CreationDate="2014-10-01T21:29:14.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW's plan was for it to never be changed. Looking at some of the forums, I think advice given from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=686656&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BMW site&lt;/a&gt; seems about spot-on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well-l-l, I hate to say &quot;never&quot; but the point being, one often needs/wants to crack open &amp;amp; rebuild an engine for other reasons (ring/valve wear, main seals, etc.) by a quarter-million miles or so--at which time, check the chain while you're in there. Otherwise, yeah, effectively lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Properly lubed, the t-chain and tensioners/guides will last as long as the crank bearings. When the engine is eventually torn down for a rebuild, a chain kit (and crank and cam gears) is part of the job.&#xA;  Until then, be happy we don't have timing belts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the forum, the sentiment seems to be there aren't many instances of a broke/slipped chain. They just don't normally fail. I do agree with the @JoshCaswell thought &amp;amp; link above ... preventive maintenance will never serve anybody wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T21:29:14.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T06:36:06.027" Score="5" ViewCount="77278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki sv 650 2007. My bike recently turned on head lamps, tail, and gauges. Now it won't power on at all, not even a jump start can turn the power on. What can I do to solve the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I'm in the frying pan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to jump start it with cables and a car. Did I blow up the fuses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I should be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also heard a whiney noise from the bottom somewhere from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7094" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T17:18:22.923" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T02:35:53.280" Title="why doesn't my motorcycle power on?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|sv650|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12536" CreationDate="2014-10-02T07:10:32.350" Score="4" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a car that was recently re-painted with spray paint.  I'm unsure why the owner used spray paint to paint the car.  This vehicle would be something I would restore slowly over time but I'm unsure if the fact that he used spray paint to paint the car will require additional work to bring the paint job back to a more 'conventional' look.  By conventional look I mean a proper paint job that you see off the factory or back from a good body shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7095" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T10:33:27.843" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:00:23.263" Title="Car was painted with spray paint, is extra work required to provide a professional finished look?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2014-10-02T08:18:51.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not going to take more work than it would have if the paint was faded or spotty or had teardrops (running paint because it was applied too thick). It's just lots of sanding and filling in imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T10:23:27.490" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T10:23:27.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12547" CreationDate="2014-10-02T12:40:25.567" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blower motor housing is shot. both left and right side. I got the right side off pretty easy but the left side looks not so easy.&#xA;If I am looking at it correctly, it looks like the heater core hose and the a/c has to be disconnected (unfortunately this would make sense).&#xA;I have never removed/unplugged an a/c before. The heater core should be as easy as catching what drains out and pouring it back in when I'm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the steps for removing and reconnecting the a/c unit and what pitfalls should I watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7098" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T13:15:57.457" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T23:59:35.603" Title="1995 Grand Marquis Blower Motor housing L&amp;R" Tags="|ac|mercury|heater-blower|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12540" CreationDate="2014-10-02T14:31:18.557" Score="3" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of a sudden the AC/heater fan on my 2004 Toyota Matrix does not work properly.  The fan has four positions.  The first 3 no longer blow air at all, but the 4th position (the highest) works.  A friend of mine said the blower motor resister is bad.  Does that sound correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T15:11:07.887" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T15:11:07.887" Title="AC/heater fan only blows at high speed" Tags="|toyota|ac|fan|heater-blower|matrix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-02T17:43:41.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2014-10-02T15:09:54.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your blower motor resistor module has blown. The fourth position provides 1:1 (full 12v) power to the fan. The other three positions provide reduced power, which allows the fan to operate at lower speeds. You can buy a replacement part relatively cheap online. This should be fairly easy to replace as well. It should easily be found under dash on the passenger side by removing any coverings in the foot well area. It should be located to the left of the fan motor assembly and should (besides the motor) be about the only thing with wires attached to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T15:09:54.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11239" CreationDate="2014-10-02T16:37:04.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if bobber (fuel level sensor) in your fuel tank is squeezing fuel hose when tank is about 100% full? In this case you get fuel pressure drop and lean fuel mixture (that causing missfire). Go to service and aske them to open you tank, remove fuel pump system and investigate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T16:37:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12534" CreationDate="2014-10-02T18:50:22.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you connected the positive terminals and negative terminals together on the jump, there shouldn't have been any harm done to the bike's electrical system or battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the battery to an auto parts store and have them test it. If the battery fails their test, replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, check the main fuse, usually on the same cable as the positive battery connector. If the fuse is elsewhere, look for a 30A (or similarly sized) fuse in the electrical stuffs - usually under the seat or the general vicinity of the battery. If the main fuse is blown, replace it with the proper amp and voltage rated fuse - consult the manual as someone may have previously installed an incorrect fuse. If it blows again, troubleshoot the cause of the blown fuse (one spurious blown fuse is not a reason to troubleshoot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check the fuses in fuse box, doing as with the main fuse if any are blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, verify the function of the main relay. I'm not sure where it is, so you may have to go digging in the bike's electrical schematics to figure out which one is the main relay and where that relay is located. You can test it by just figuring out which lead is the lead to close the relay (not the one that powers the loads when the relay is closed), and connect the battery's positive terminal to it. Just be sure to secure your test lead to the relay before attaching the other end to the battery - you don't want to short it to ground. If the relay fails the test, replace it. If the relay passes, check the continuity of the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T18:50:22.087" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T20:11:08.417" Score="1" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the UK and I am currently planning to get a Ford Focus/Fiesta depending on the budget and features. I have viewed 2 Fords so far - a Focus (100K miles, 2001 model) and a Fiesta (35k miles, 2008 model). The Focus had a very stiff clutch, but the Fiesta had a slightly smoother, but still relatively stiff clutch. The gear in the Fiesta is quite smooth, so I can feel that the car is releatively newer. Because I am used to a small Vauxhall Corsa which has a very good clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen quite old cars such as Skoda with 66k miles, but the clutch was much better and smoother compared to Ford. That's what confuses me the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this issue quite common with the Fords? I am getting a feeling that the Fords are not very well with clutches. Does anyone has any experience. Also, If I can get the clutch work done and get it smoother, how much will it cost me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/advice is appreciated!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I also found the same problem with Renault Clios&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastEditorUserId="7076" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T23:22:55.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:34:04.430" Title="Ford Fiesta and Focus Clutch Issues" Tags="|ford|clutch|focus|fiesta|clio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12538" CreationDate="2014-10-02T23:59:35.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet you're right about having to disconnect hoses, but don't know for sure by just looking at an image on Google. If you do have to disconnect the A/C hose, you should take it to a shop which will be able to completely remove all of the refrigerant from the system prior to opening it up. After you get the hose off, you'll need to get a new drier to replace the old one: once exposed to atmosphere they're on the way out. Once you get everything back together, you can take it back to the shop which purged your system and have them refill for you, as it should be discounted (but not free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The reason you'd want to have them empty the system is that if you break the lines and the refrigerant dumps out, you can get freeze-burns from it. Not a good thing to have a digit get frozen ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious why you don't just try to fix the old one? Is it that far gone? Is it too busted up where you can't use some fiberglass/resin to reinforce what's good? It's amazing what you can do with the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as pitfalls, I wouldn't think you'd run into any trouble besides keeping track of parts when you pull it all apart. The link you posted in the comments looks like a disaster! Just keep everything tidy and in order and you shouldn't have any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T23:59:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12551" CreationDate="2014-10-03T01:37:55.030" Score="0" ViewCount="2330" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put a big bore kit on a Yamaha Jog (50cc to 70cc) and am getting ~115psi compression. It will reach full rpm on the stand but on the road it won't pass mid throttle and makes a hollow/rattling sound. What could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T11:06:34.163" Title="2 stroke scooter won't rev under load" Tags="|scooter|yamaha|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11359" CreationDate="2014-10-03T01:57:54.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your clutch is burning out so often, maybe it's slipping - check the adjustment of the clutch lever by loosening the locking nut and turning the adjustment (it should engage around halfway on the lever and by fully engaged before the lever is fully out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kick start may require the clutch to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T01:57:54.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2014-10-03T11:06:34.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with @mikes ... your issue is lack of fuel. That &quot;hollow/rattling&quot; noise is pre-ignition/knocking caused by a lean fuel condition. If you keep trying to run your scooter like this, you will blow the piston out of it (if you haven't caused damage already). You'll probably need to rejet the carb and get more fuel into the system. The reason why it doesn't do this when on the stand is that the engine isn't under a tremendous load. It is probably doing it, but the noise is so faint you don't hear it. I would bet the manufacturer of the &quot;big bore kit&quot; has recommendations as to what size jets should be installed and how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T11:06:34.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:00:23.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I afraid you need to sand entire surface, then paint with primary, then paint with proper paint. Spray paint don't have consistent pressure so its grain is not perfect. To prepare and repaint entire car you need to make some disassemble, masking and drying. So it is a lot of money even in my country (Belarus). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:00:23.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11631" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:04:51.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise - means radio mode is working. Try to insert other CD, as your current CD might be damaged&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:04:51.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1929" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:22:31.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a wind deflector or just deflector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7108" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:22:31.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:59:00.073" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in search for a method of scanning the CAN on my car using a cheap ELM327 chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can query the ECU (made by Denso) without issue, however when I attempt to set the ELM327 scanner into promiscuous mode (via ATMA), I am not presented with any information back - that is, I am required to send commands to get a response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have confirmed with a dealer that many things in my car can be queried, using their dealer level scan tool (A DS-II made by Denso, which is very similar to the Toyota Intelligent Tester), such as unlocking the boot / trunk by plugging in their dealer level scan tool to the OBD-II port and talking to the boot's computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is, where do I start? Is there a software package for Windows / Linux / OSX that I can? What about hardware (Will my ELM 327 OBD-II device work)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T17:43:02.040" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T09:11:35.770" Title="Scanning CANBUS" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-04T13:49:37.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T15:11:28.193" Score="4" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone on the Continent managed to upgrade a factory installed &quot;Performance&quot; sound system on a Volvo V40 MY 2013 to &quot;High Performance&quot; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; (Included from comments)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volvo supplies several editions of sound systems to its cars. The most simple and &quot;naked&quot; edition is the one called &quot;Performance&quot;. It has neither USB port, nor Bluetooth. My car is supplied with this sound system. On the contrary, the edition called &quot;High Performance&quot; incorporates these characteristics (USB, BT), but the dealer in Greece declares that an upgrade is not possible, at least now. Thus, I am looking on information if someone has succeeded to do this, on his/her own means. I am looking on the Continent because UK cars are supplied with &quot;High Performance&quot; as minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7109" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T14:28:32.313" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:28:32.313" Title="Sound system on Volvo V40 MY 2013" Tags="|volvo|audio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7929" CreationDate="2014-10-03T16:51:22.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that something blocking fuel lines, maybe hose bend. After some time under pressure of fuel pump it unblocks and fuel rail pressure returns to normal. Not sure that ECU has fuel pressure sensor, so it is just a theory but it worth to check fuel pressure first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T16:51:22.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12509" CreationDate="2014-10-03T18:11:18.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of plugs in the back of the MK2 Seat Ibiza's radio that will easily allow you to connect it to your stock system. This will require some splicing of the wires, but definitely shouldn't be too difficult to manage. There is a power plug and a speaker plug. Make sure you're splicing into the correct one, or you could damage the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power plug looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/co3F3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK2 Seat Ibiza radio power plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speaker plug looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfHT5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK2 Seat Ibiza radio speaker plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The schematics of these plugs should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d3Gq9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MK2 Seat Ibiza power plug and radio plug schematics&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of this information in hand, you should be able to perform the following steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Order a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html&lt;/a&gt; to splice into the speaker wires for your inputs. You could also cut your input wire and splice it in directly, but I typically choose to order these instead of cutting my input wires and having to buy a new set in the future for another vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Splice your inputs into the &lt;strong&gt;speaker plug's&lt;/strong&gt; wiring, following the schematic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear right positive: BRN/BLK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear right ground: GRN/RED&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear left positive: BRN/RED&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear left ground: GRN/BLUE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run your amplifier remote to the &lt;strong&gt;power plug's&lt;/strong&gt; ACC wire (GRN/BLUE). This will tell your amplifier that your car has been switched on, just as it does with the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run your power and ground from your amplifier. If you have enough ground wire to run directly to your battery, do that. If not, find somewhere close to your amp that would be a good ground. If it's painted, you'll need to get some sandpaper and get rid of the paint so that it makes a good connection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, enjoy the new sound. You will probably have to tune your amplifier quite a bit to get rid of voices in the system, since this vehicle doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer output. Turning on the LPF (low pass filter) on the amp will usually take care of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T18:11:18.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12561" CreationDate="2014-10-03T18:58:25.117" Score="2" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious what options there are for non-mechanics in diagnosing and correcting an issue where fuses for the Windshield Wipers on my 2005 Ford Windstar Mini-Van keep blowing? Upon placing the new fuse in the slot there is a snap and the fuse is blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3319" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T04:08:25.060" Title="2005 Ford Windstar constantly blows windshield wiper fuse" Tags="|ford|windstar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T22:48:57.827" Score="1" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Honda Cb125.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day, she started fluttering at speeds above 30mph. I had run into this issue before, and it turned out to be a bad spark plug connection. I have since replaced the spark plug cable, and the plug itself. The bike ran fine after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trucked my bike home, and started toying around with it. Not only is it now-impossible to start (before, it would start on the first kick), but with the key turned to on, a strange clicking sound is made (and my neutral indicator winks at the same rate as the clicking sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is coming from the circle to the left of my battery (I can feel the vibration): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36szW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know what that part is called, but I believe it is the blinker relay or condenser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7111" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:31:26.380" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:14:35.270" Title="1974 Honda Cb125 Not Starting + Strange Clicking Noise" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12559" CreationDate="2014-10-03T22:54:30.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cause of a fuse blowing is always because too high a current is passing through it, so you need to find out why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short circuit in the wiring to the wiper motor - which you can diagnose with a multimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A failure in the wiper motor itself - best tested (by a non-mechanic) by replacing with a know good one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T22:54:30.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12560" CreationDate="2014-10-03T23:26:21.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as though it is a relay. I cannot tell by the picture, but a relay is going to have three connections on it. One would be a ground, another is an energizer link (12v), and the third is going to be the power lead which provides power to wherever it's going to, which in this case is probably the ignition system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T23:26:21.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12572" CreationDate="2014-10-03T23:45:02.380" Score="1" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing an aftermarket 70cc big bore kit for a Kymco People 50 2-stroke scooter. The issue is that I don't know what engine this has. It seems that the 4-stroke &quot;4T&quot; model uses a common QMB139, but I'm not even really sure about that. So if anyone happens to know, that would be really helpful and much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can suggest a 70cc upgrade kit that you've had success with that would be great too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7112" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T15:22:22.530" Title="Which engine does a 2005 Kymco People 50 have?" Tags="|engine|scooter|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-04T07:27:10.387" Score="6" ViewCount="29040" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, I frequently get the yellow &quot;wrench&quot; icon which appears on the LCD screen to the left of the speedometer.  On approximately 25%-50% of the trips I take with the car, the wrench icon will be on by the end.  (But then is gone next time I start the car.)  The wrench usually turns on when I am on the freeway, and am accelerating or going uphill (or especially both).  This has been happening for a couple months, and there is otherwise nothing wrong with the car; I am not experiencing any sort of trouble with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car (which is still under warranty, and also under a service contract covering scheduled maintenance) to my Ford dealer, and he said it would cost $105, and I would have to leave the car overnight, merely to tell me what the wrench icon meant.  This seemed like highway robbery just to read a code from a car which is still under warranty, so I declined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I next took the car to an independent mechanic, who was willing to plug his OBD2 scanner into it for free, but he said it didn't find any stored code.  (Since the wrench icon was not actually present at the time when I took the car to him, or to the Ford dealer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided I should just buy my own OBD2 scanner so I could just check the code myself the next time the wrench icon appears.  So, I went to Pep Boys with the intention of buying an inexpensive OBD2 scanner.  However, I talked to an employee at Pep Boys, and he claimed that an OBD2 scanner would NOT be able to read any codes related to the wrench icon.  He claimed that OBD2 was ONLY for the actual &quot;check engine&quot; light (the engine-shaped idiot light that all cars from the past couple decades have), but that the wrench icon was something entirely different and wouldn't show up on the scanner.  He claimed that only a much higher-end Ford-specific scanner (something in the $2000 price range, and not normally sold to consumers) could diagnose the wrench icon.  He said the inexpensive OBD2 scanners sold at Pep Boys would be useless for my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my primary question is: was the Pep Boys employee right?  Is the wrench icon entirely different from the &quot;check engine&quot; light?  Or should I ignore him and get an OBD2 scanner anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7113" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T15:53:57.793" Title="Diagnosing &quot;wrench icon&quot; on 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid: will OBD2 scanner help me?" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12544" CreationDate="2014-10-04T08:53:03.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutches on all cars will vary in 'stiffness' as any particular model of vehicle will have variations of engine size and performance. Corsa and Fiesta are smaller cars and a light clutch is appreciated by a host of people, especially the girls. There are no real problems with the clutches on the cars you mentioned, including Renault, and the issues you outline are either based on limited experiance of the vehicles you mention, or are a hangover from your previous cars clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T08:53:03.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-04T09:00:56.740" Score="2" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I bumped my left wheel on a pavement, due to an understeering after accelerating (my bad). I smashed it quite good and I was certain the alignment was off, so I did some tests. No tire squeeking on turns, no high speed vibration, although I noticed the car goes just a little to the left when driving straight. But the most intriguing thing is the fact, when I steer &lt;strong&gt;a little&lt;/strong&gt; (about 2-3cm) from the straight position of the wheel, at low speeds (like 20-40km/h) I can feel a broad and heavy oscillation in my hands, about 1-3hz? I play with the wheel when going straight, tilting it a bit to the left and right, and always feel this oscillation. This behaviour seems to stop over 70-80km/h. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7114" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T20:33:38.533" Title="Ford Focus steering oscillation at low speeds" Tags="|troubleshooting|focus|steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12555" CreationDate="2014-10-04T09:11:35.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CAN-bus in its simple form is two wires that a series of microprocessors connect on too. There is not a processor to read or write to for 'CAN'. As the dealer has illustrated, you talk to the boots processor(&lt;em&gt;body processor&lt;/em&gt;) to activate or de-activate the features of the processor. CAN - two wires, hi and lo, with a 120 ohm resistor joining them together at each end, allows you to connect to the various processors on the vehicle through the DLC plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T09:11:35.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12564" CreationDate="2014-10-04T09:28:14.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spanner symbol is operate by your engines ECU to indicate that your engine oil is at the end of its useful life and should be changed. When changing the engine oil you need to reset the counter by pressing the info button on the steering wheel until 'oil reset' comes up on the dash... then press and hold the reset button, which sets the oil life to has '100%'. You do not need a scanner for this operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T09:28:14.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12566" CreationDate="2014-10-04T09:32:54.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would best be advised not to drive the vehicle before you have had it inspected for any damage by a mechanic or tyre centre. Your reported observation on the change you have noticed only goes to show that something is damaged, and it may be a case of it about to completely break. Have it inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T09:32:54.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-04T11:30:39.300" Score="0" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have chevorlet Enjoy purchased one year ago andgot it converted to CNG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays my car is giving problem of increase in rpm during running. It accelarates automatically but comes back to normal after few seconds.  This problem is mainly observed in 2nd gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we referred this problem to our CNG fitted company they said the IC valve is to be replaced.  Chevorlet did change the IC valve when noticed problemistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bt then also my problem isnt solved.  Where isthe actual problem.  Chevorlet people say they need to investigate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could u please help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7115" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T15:08:07.130" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T15:08:07.130" Title="Sudden increase in rpm when my car is in motion" Tags="|chevrolet|rpm|cng|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12570" CreationDate="2014-10-04T12:50:43.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what ever reason, if Chevrolet, or thier subsideries say they need to investigate the problem with your vehicle then you should allow this to take place. Chevrolet will know the vehicle better then anyone else, and if the addition of the CNG equipment is at fault they will easily home in on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T12:50:43.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-10-04T15:22:22.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/2005/kymco/people/specifications/05/engine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This web site&lt;/a&gt; gives these specifications for the motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bore (in)                1.54&#xA;Bore (mm)                39&#xA;Compression Ratio        7.21&#xA;Cooling                  Air&#xA;Cylinders                1&#xA;Displacement (cc)        49.5&#xA;Displacement (ci)        3&#xA;Engine Configuration     Single-Cylinder&#xA;Engine Immobilizer       Not Available&#xA;Engine Type              2-Stroke&#xA;Fuel Injector            No&#xA;Fuel Requirements        Regular&#xA;Fuel System Type         Carburetor&#xA;Number Of Carburetors    1&#xA;Speed Governor           No&#xA;Starter                  Electric / Kick&#xA;Stroke (in)              1.63&#xA;Stroke (mm)              41.4&#xA;Valve Configuration      Reed Valve&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears from the specs that the differences are between the People 50/150/250 models, not amongst the models themselves. The 150 and 250 use the four stroke motor, while the 50 is a 2-stroke. I'm pretty sure there is only a single 2-stroke motor which is used in the People 50 and not multiple different engine models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scooterwest.com/item_details/Malossi-Cylinder-Kit-Kymco-People-70cc/1330&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malossi&lt;/a&gt; makes a big bore cylinder kit for your scooter. This is just a suggestion, not an endorsement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T15:22:22.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12576" CreationDate="2014-10-04T15:27:32.820" Score="2" ViewCount="1830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new 2015 Subaru Outback. A day after I got it, I noticed a faint crackling noise coming from the air conditioning vent when the AC is set to high. It's very faint but it's very noticeable. Additionally, the the left vent in the center of the dash is blowing considerably less air than the right vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car to my dealer and the service guy said the crackling was due to coolant cycling through the lines and that it was normal (apparently his brand new truck does it as well). Also, he said there was nothing he could see that could cause the left vent to be weaker than the right and there was nothing official from Subaru pertaining to this. He also said that the left and right vents in the center use the same duct which originates from the right of the car, so some weakness in the left vent is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked with some other owners of the same model Outback but they don't have this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any clue what could be causing this? My dealer is brushing everything off as it being &quot;normal&quot; but I'm trying to gather more info about possible issues before taking it back to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T18:24:38.753" Title="Subaru Outback - AC blowing less air out of one vent" Tags="|ac|subaru|outback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-04T17:33:59.207" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda civic 2006 automatic. Whenever I come after driving and park the car, the battery will automatically be empty in some time. I can not start the car until I get the battery charged from mechanic. Could anyone help me out please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7119" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:04:25.503" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:04:25.503" Title="battery is not working" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12574" CreationDate="2014-10-04T18:14:39.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and most likely is the battery will no longer take a charge and needs to be replaced. A battery will usually last about five years. Once dead where it isn't taking a charge, you won't be able to do much without replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing which could be wrong is the alternator may be dead. You can check this with a multi-meter. If you get a reading of around 13.1-14 volts dc, the alternator is charging just fine. If, after getting a jump start, you take a reading and it continually drops (very slowly), this would indicate the alternator is bad and needs replaced. From your description, I'm suggesting this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T18:14:39.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12573" CreationDate="2014-10-04T18:24:38.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something in the vent which is blocking proper air circulation. I think you have two recourses available to you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, talk to the service manager. It sounds to me the mechanic doesn't want to take the time to figure out what the issue is. It may be involved where they have to pull the dash apart to get at the problem area. It is my bet there is a piece of ducting tape which is in the road causing the obstruction. Something which is not readily noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if you are not getting satisfaction at the dealership which you bought your car from, it is completely within your rights to go to a different Subaru dealership to have it looked at. Tell them what your issue is and go from there. Some service departments are better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This whole thing falls under an &quot;adjustment period&quot; which comes with new vehicles. Here in the US you have 12 months to find anything you do not like and have it fixed. The dealership should not have an issue with it because the labor and parts for fixing this is paid for by the manufacturer (same thing with any warranty item). The difference here is, if you find things like there is a paint streak which should be there, it can be fixed. If you find that the upholstery is not exactly right, you can get it fixed. If you find that there is a squeak somewhere, you can get it fixed. You do have recourse. Just because you have purchased a car does not mean they no longer have responsibility for the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the noise you are talking about, what they said could very well be true ... not having heard the noise myself, I couldn't tell you for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T18:24:38.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12580" CreationDate="2014-10-04T22:38:04.783" Score="2" ViewCount="8551" Body="&lt;p&gt;While towing a borrowed trailer yesterday, my indicators stopped working. The noise usually made by them turning on and off also stopped, and the lights for the indicators in the dashboard stopped working too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights and tail lights still work. The hazard lights also work (both on the dashboard and the actual lights themselves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure it's probably a blown fuse, but looking at the available fuses I can't see one for the indicators. I've attached photos of the fusebox and another fuseboxy looking thing that I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulZO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fusebox by battery, with cover removed and to the side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ev25.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another fusebox?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried removing the 10A fuses labelled ECCS and TAIL LAMP in the top photo to see if they had blown but they look fine. Can anyone tell me which fuse is for the indicators, or whether I'm completely barking down the wrong track?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1761" LastEditorUserId="1761" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T22:51:11.450" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T14:19:18.490" Title="How to replace the fuse for both indicators on a Nissan Wingroad 2004?" Tags="|electrical|nissan|fuse|towing|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2014-10-04T23:20:19.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking, from your description, that the problem is the blinker relay, not a fuse. The lights themselves should go through the tail lamp fuse. The relay is what gives the characteristic ticking sound. The emergency flashers usually run off of a separate blinker relay, but may be the same thing. If so, you can use it to test between the two. These relays are usually located under the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T14:19:18.490" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T14:19:18.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14727" CreationDate="2014-10-05T02:24:55.193" Score="3" ViewCount="2887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Rally Prima Scooter and just recently I have been unable to turn the key to the ignition section of the lock. I am able to put the key in and turn it one click to unlock the steering lock but it won't turn any more clicks so I am unable to start the scooter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning the key while moving the wheel into different positions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CRC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicone lubricant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the front panel off the scooter and slightly tapping the lock barrel and the key while trying to unlock it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have a spare key so I can't try that but the key doesn't look particularly worn down or damaged. Someone did attempt to steal the scooter about two weeks ago so it is possible that they tampered with the lock then (or possibly damaged it when they were trying to push it away?) but I haven't had any issues with the lock until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions for things that I should try? Or is my best bet to try and replace the whole lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7122" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:54:10.260" Title="Key unlocks steering lock but won't turn into the ignition section Hyosung Prima Rally (Scooter)" Tags="|key|locks|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T06:09:48.643" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;automatic transmission My service manual states that the fluid to use is Dexron 11 .My local garage mechanic used ATF 111 is this ok? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7124" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T14:17:35.163" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T22:58:36.637" Title="Change of transmission oil" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T06:32:26.893" Score="6" ViewCount="4555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is draining my battery and my bike won't start. If it's the relays which one is it? My motorcycle doesn't crank at all. it makes a buzzy noise when I press the start button. It sounds like there's a power shortage. I have a Suzuki sv 650 year 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if it's my starter how would I know if so how can I replace it where is it located or is it just the 1 on the throttle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7094" LastEditorUserId="7094" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T02:00:30.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T01:56:24.053" Title="My motorcycle won't start at all why?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12587" CreationDate="2014-10-05T12:52:55.117" Score="2" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought my new car which has 14&quot; wheels i.e. 14&quot; rims (steel). One of my friends was asking me, &quot;Dude, where are the alloys?&quot;. I didn't have much attention to it before until he asked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general knowledge tells me that an Alloy rim is an amalgam of multiple durable metals and therfore, lighter than usual rims and better for improving the performance of car suspensions and brakes (i.e. long-lasting brakes). However, it's more expensive to have the wheels fitted with alloy rims ('coz they are wider?) and also damages to alloys are more expensive to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone suggest something better regarding this? i.e. Do I need to move to alloy wheels? Is it better for me in long run? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T15:37:43.220" Title="Alloy and Steel Rims - Can I get away with having no Alloys?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T14:26:53.797" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know about how to install an electric motor-driven radiator cooling fan instead of the belt-driven one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle: 1998 Mitsubishi-fuso  fm617&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine: Mitsubishi 6d16 diesel engine (radiator fan driven by belt in original)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type: truck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T14:41:11.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:38:08.713" Title="How to install an electric motor-driven radiator cooling fan instead of the belt-driven one?" Tags="|radiator|mitsubishi|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12585" CreationDate="2014-10-05T14:35:45.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main benefits to running alloy rims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, they are lighter. I read an article quite a few years back about &lt;em&gt;sprung weight&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;un-sprung weight&lt;/em&gt;. Sprung weight is the weight which is above and supported by the springs. This would be like the body, engine, transmission, driver, etc. Un-sprung weight is the weight of the vehicle which includes everything below the springs, such as wheels, tires, brakes, etc. They said that 10lbs of un-sprung weight was worth 100lbs of sprung weight. If you can reduce the weight of your wheels/tires by 2.5lbs each, it's like taking a 100lb weight out of the trunk. This improves gas mileage, stopping distance, brake wear, and a plethora of other little things. These are very good things.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetics - &lt;em&gt;Most people&lt;/em&gt; would consider that alloys look better than steel wheels covered by a hub-cap. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a down side to this, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost - What is it going to cost you to replace perfectly good steel wheels for the alloys? A pretty penny, I'd suggest. The cost to get one fixed is going to be more expensive as well ... but how many times have you actually had to fix a rim in the first place? I've been driving vehicles for over 30 years and have only ran into the situation once, on one rim. I was young and dumb at the time, so never really got it fixed (let's just say lack of funds). The tire and suspension almost always takes the brunt of an impact. The only way you are going to run into the situation is by doing something dumb in the first place. Drive sanely and you'll probably never run into this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to have to decide for yourself what you want to do. If you have the funds and feel froggy, then by all means, jump on a new set. If, on the other hand, you are just responding to something &quot;Dude&quot; said, I'd say back to him, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Dude, I'll put some on there when you give me the money to do so!&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T20:36:31.077" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T20:36:31.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T16:26:11.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a similar problem on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, and the problem is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stalk left: left/right all off&#xA;Stalk neutral: left on&#xA;Stalk right: left on.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try the same trick and to see what gonna happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like a bad symptom for 2007 Jeep...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked several forums and found out two quick solutions: replace a) multifunction switch b) flasher relay. Kinda confused right now, needs some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7123" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T17:55:58.923" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T17:55:58.923" Title="Turn signal malfunction, is it multifunction switch or the flasher relay should be replaced?" Tags="|electrical|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T17:15:34.537" Score="1" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Civic. My battery was replaced last year. Yesterday my wife tried to start the car. All the lights everything turned on except the car would not start. Not even a sound just turn the key and lights, air, radio but no sound from the starter or engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7126" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T17:57:55.030" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T22:41:37.577" Title="How to tell if my starter is the problem" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T02:22:16.780" Score="3" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to start my car (1997 Toyota Camry) which was running just fine the day before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't start, as the battery was drained. It took forever to charge back up. What would cause the battery to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7130" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T10:45:51.240" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T10:54:32.250" Title="1997 Toyota Camry - Battery is just fine one day, but drained the next" Tags="|toyota|battery|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12592" CreationDate="2014-10-06T07:58:36.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three common causes for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;User error, as pointed by Regina&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fault in the electrical wiring of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;took forever to charge it back up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the third issue applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first, the solution is to pay attention when leaving the car: check lights, radio/music player, any consumers plugged into the lighter socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second, you have to check your wiring by a professional. Beware this type of fault can lead to fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to third item is to replace the battery. You can do it yourself or you can ask a professional to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add that any electrical fault in the wiring will lead to a failing battery.&#xA;A good indication this is happening is when a fairly new/good battery suddenly starts to lose its charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T09:18:21.443" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T09:18:21.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5785" CreationDate="2014-10-06T08:23:37.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a serious issue as long you keep from riding your bike in the same condition. Every bike has oil seals. Your friend is rite. To avoid leaking of the oil from the crank case, we have oil seals. Changing a set of oil seals wont cause you much. I don't have much details on how to get it done, but i know it requires a mechanic. Its a cheap and simple process for a mechanic. But first clean the engine properly and add new fresh oil. That should fix the problem. I own two bikes and changing the oil seals in both the bikes never took more than a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T08:23:37.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12616" CreationDate="2014-10-06T11:11:24.910" Score="2" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oil grades in wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; and was wondering what the operating temperatures are for the various oil grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering since the area I live in is a pretty Mediterranean climate where it only gets down to barely freezing maybe two or three weeks a year, is in the 40's F to 50's F the rest of the winter ( about 3 months ) and most the rest of the year is in the 70's to 90's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:24:07.063" Title="What are the temperature ranges for different oil grades?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="57338" CreationDate="2014-10-06T12:28:43.093" Score="3" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new stereo for my Honda CRV and now I would like to buy a connector to avoid rewiring. Unfortunately neither of the two plugs are standard connectors. Does anyone know what these connectors are called? I think the blue one is just the Honda proprietary connector... What is the second one? Anyone knows where i can buy a lead that goes from the blue connector to the socket of the black one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hshhf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMIWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7135" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T09:24:23.823" Title="car stereo connectors" Tags="|honda|audio|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T15:25:01.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 96 Ford Ranger 3.0. There is an oil like substance in the coolant reservoir and under radiator cap. Oil is clean with no loss. Transmission is idling fine. No overheating of cooling system. What could the oil like substance be and how could it get there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7137" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T21:44:25.433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T06:37:12.267" Title="Reason for oil like substance in coolant reservoir and under radiator cap?" Tags="|ford|coolant|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-24T19:52:19.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T15:38:14.120" Score="2" ViewCount="4431" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2011 Jeep Patriot started having issues with the radio head unit a few months ago. The radio started occassionally cutting out and coming back on a few seconds later. The issue got progressively worse until it was happening almost continuously. I took the head unit out of the dash and inspected the wiring and found no issues. I unplugged the wiring harness from the head unit and plugged it back in and the radio started working again (like magic). I put the whole thing back together and it worked fine for a few day - then the flickering issue started up again. I repeated the process and got it working for another week or so before the flickering began again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what the issue may be for things I should be checking for?&#xA;I thought the head unit may be going bad but the fact that it starts working fine again after unplugging/replugging it in make me doubt that diagnosis now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7139" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T21:38:16.750" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T17:46:46.247" Title="Radio Head Unit Flickering On/Off" Tags="|jeep|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12836" CreationDate="2014-10-06T17:23:46.880" Score="8" ViewCount="2951" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Tuesday, my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12518/if-the-timing-belt-doesnt-turn-with-the-starter-is-it-broken&quot;&gt;timing belt sheered off several teeth.&lt;/a&gt; I got one on order and replaced it, and the car fired right up. I was able to hand crank the engine several times after re-timing it and it turned without any sort of binding/difficulty beyond fighting the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've noticed while driving it, it sounds much deeper at the exhaust end of things. I didn't actually take apart anything along the airflow path. I just took out the spark plugs (so I wouldn't fight compression when hand cranking it) and the serpentine/timing belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, why would replacing the timing belt (and tensioner/pulleys/water pump) change the sound of the engine? Is it possible a worn out tensioner could be the culprit here, or perhaps a stretched belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T11:34:40.047" Title="Why would a vehicles exhaust sound significantly deeper after a broken timing belt replacement?" Tags="|mitsubishi|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T17:27:39.190" Score="5" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Little Information About Car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make:&lt;/strong&gt; Chevrolet&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Model:&lt;/strong&gt; Daewoo Joy (local name in Pakistan), Matiz (name in other markets)   1.0 ltr&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Year:&lt;/strong&gt; 2008&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;KM:&lt;/strong&gt; 112500&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt; Manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a strange, but not unique problem. My problem is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3222/car-stalls-when-coming-to-a-stop&quot;&gt;Car Stalls When Coming to a Stop&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11135/car-stalls-when-braking-vw-mk1-golf&quot;&gt;Car stalls when braking (VW Mk1 Golf)&lt;/a&gt; but both related to older models.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In idle position my car runs smoothly and picks the acceleration as expected, but when the car slowed down at signal/speed breaker and clutch is pressed the car starts to stall or completely stalls. I can only avoid the complete stall by applying more gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car does not stall when only brake is applied but When I press the clutch with brake then the car stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem pops out when the acceleration cable was tightened a bit as the car stalling in idle. Later the problem solved but after one day, the car started stalling while running. I visited the technician and he suggested to re-program the complete ECU @ $45 + throttle body cleaning which seem ridiculous as in idle it is alright. By reading the manual &lt;a href=&quot;http://500.5053.com.cn/daewoo/EN/documents/Matiz/start_matiz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://500.5053.com.cn/daewoo/EN/documents/Matiz/start_matiz.html&lt;/a&gt; and some forums, I reset the ECU to let engine re-learn the changes but again after few KM the problem came back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, there is no &quot;Check Engine Light&quot; and all is working normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is re-programing the only solution OR is this problem related to the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T00:05:21.467" Title="Car Stalls When Coming To Stop" Tags="|chevrolet|troubleshooting|stall|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3697" CreationDate="2014-10-06T17:33:22.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandson installed a dry charged 6v battery in his Honda CT 90 6 months ago. The electrolyte remained in the box never added and eventualy discarded when the box was destroyed by leaking acid.&#xA;The battery worked all summer and was showing 6.8 v when the bike failed to start this October.&#xA;When I discovered it dry,I added tap water..only slight drop in voltage but the hi beam still worked. Go figure.&#xA;The plates looked a bit white. &#xA;Could be the dealer HAD added electrolyte and the questionable rectifier boiled it away...still it did run fine up until now with 0 in the bat.&#xA;Will go NEW battery and replacment Radio Shack rectifier. Hopfully no more mystery surprises.&#xA;R&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7140" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T17:33:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2014-10-06T21:51:42.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the car have an alarm system or system which disables the ignition ... usually tied in with a key fob? If so, this is usually tied in with the Body Control Module (BCM), which if bad, could be disabling your starter. Everything else might come on, but you turn the key and nothing. You'd also see a security light on the dash board with this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T21:51:42.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12583" CreationDate="2014-10-06T22:58:36.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are saying that they used Dexron III instead of Dexron II, that is completely okay. They are not interchangeable, since Dexron II should not be used in a transmission that calls for Dexron III or something higher. Dexron III exceeds the properties of Dexron II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the original GM ATFs have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON#Dexron-III&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;superseded by Dexron III&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T22:58:36.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12615" CreationDate="2014-10-07T01:12:56.923" Score="4" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a 20yo car that is in generally good condition but for a few chips and scratches along the front (I'm guessing where rocks and gravel have been flicked up over the years). Most of them are starting to form rust. The smallest is just a few millimetres across whilst the biggest is probably 10mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to fix this? Grinding, priming, filling and respraying seem like overkill, but is that my only option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T13:43:37.017" Title="How best to repair numerous small chips and scratches that are starting to rust?" Tags="|paint|rust|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T04:45:36.417" Score="2" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the A/C compressor run/engage under certain conditions (like defrost) even if A/C has &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; been on for a week? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got a puddle of about a 1/2 liter of (confirmed) clear water under the car tonight, and it continues to drip quickly from the tube outlet (passenger foot area under car), and this is without using A/C for the past week (it is cool fall here now). The dripping also is directly related to whether the climate fan is on or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for the front rad fan was cycling on/off continuously immediately upon cold start? It seems to be directly related to whether the climate controls were set to both defrost or partial defrost... if climate controls are set to &quot;face&quot; or &quot;feet&quot; the front rad fan shuts off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just want to confirm that this behavior is normal, and that the coolant being low is unrelated. Thanks guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7145" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:48:27.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:48:27.200" Title="2009 Civic DXG leaking a LOT of fluid from AC drain tube, coolant low" Tags="|honda|civic|ac|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2567" CreationDate="2014-10-07T05:00:36.090" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just by-pass the connector, jury rig the wires together and fire it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7146" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T09:10:48.037" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T09:10:48.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T05:59:23.377" Score="10" ViewCount="81735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have an incredibly frustrating noise coming from the front right of the car. It only occurred after replacing pads and rotors. It occurs when turning left (weight on right) and occasionally going straight. Seems to get worse the hotter it gets (ie. Hot weather is worse, or longer drives gets worse). Putting brakes on seems to get rid of it or at least suppress it. Much more noticeable at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video for a more accurate description. (Starts midway in).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/nX1TOWUcits&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/nX1TOWUcits&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reseat brake pads ensuring wear tabs are not scraping rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bend back rotor sheet metal 'guard'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;grease caliper slides and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;put old brake pads back in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replace front hub (rule out wheel bearing)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replace front right caliper and brake lines (and obviously bleed).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what else to do, this is driving me insane. I did admit defeat and take it to a mechanic just for a look over, he said everything seems fine and recommended changing the caliper, which I did...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the noise the brakes perform exceptional, nice pedal, no shudder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for reading look forward to suggestions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7148" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T19:01:18.177" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T10:48:30.477" Title="Front right 'squeals' when turning" Tags="|brakes|steering|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12610" CreationDate="2014-10-07T08:59:53.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal behavior in most vehicles for the A/C compressor to kick on when the controls are set to defrost or partial-defrost. It works this way to throw dry (dehumidified) air at the windshield to get it to clear faster. If the weather outside were below freezing and you pumped humid air at it (even your the humidity in your breath would do it) onto the windshield, it would freeze there. You would start to have a layer of ice on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of your windshield, which would be a total bummer to get off. By pumping dehumidified air on to it, it clears any fog from it, making it easier to see and doing it faster than waiting for the vehicle to heat up. The radiator fan is set to engage when the A/C pump has kicked on, so that is normal as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the A/C is running, that means you'd have condensation coming from the A/C drain tube. Which means it would not have anything to do with low coolant, especially considering the liquid you found is clear water. If it were coolant leaking into the A/C box, you'd get that sickly sweet smell of the anti-freeze hitting you in the face like a sledge hammer. I don't know why you'd have 1/2 liter of condensation draining into a puddle, unless you left it set in one place while running for an extended period of time and/or it is very humid where you are at. Water coming out is very much normal, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it doesn't sound as if you have any issues. Refill the coolant with your anti-freeze mix and keep an eye on it. I've had vehicles where some will disappear for no apparent reason with absolutely nothing being wrong with the car. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T18:37:45.227" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T18:37:45.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12608" CreationDate="2014-10-07T10:07:33.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the job done right, then yes: grinding, filling, sanding, priming, and spraying are your &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; option. There are alternatives out there. Duplicolor makes color matched kits which allows you to paint in the smaller chips (it has an abrasive, color paint brush, then a clear coat to go over the top). I haven't used them, but the product looks like a winner. I'm not sure it's going to work for the larger chips, though. Your problem, however, may be the rust. You cannot just lay over rust with paint and expect it to last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/5NwrEUVKmQw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube. It seems fairly comprehensive as to minor chip repair. He goes over all of the basics up to the painting of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/gw3SEiCf2UY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This guys&lt;/a&gt; gives a pretty good presentation on how to do all of this with rattle cans (spray cans). Two things I would not do which you see in the video is: don't do this on a windy day. You'll make a mess of things. Second, do not use a scratchbrite pad. They can cause you all kinds of issues with paint adhesion and orange peal effect. He also does not explain to you about how to do use the buffing machine very well. If you are not careful, you can cut right on through your brand new paint and you'll have to do it all over again. Use the machine lightly and be careful near the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go to a paint store which sells automotive paints and have them make you a can of color matched spray paint for your vehicle. I don't know what the local laws are in Australia, but they'll be able to tell you at the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't be afraid of doing this yourself. It can easily be done with spray cans and have a professional outcome. Two big things: be patient; be clean. Both will have a large outcome on how everything will turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T10:07:33.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12597" CreationDate="2014-10-07T12:24:49.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of misconceptions about oil, in fact when I first came on this site, I proposed &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/261/oil-how-to-deal-with-it&quot;&gt;this question over on meta&lt;/a&gt; because, having dealt with regular forums, I know the topic of oil is more myth than it is fact or science. To that end, there is a site/forum out there which deals specifically with motor oil. I believe most of the information found there is probably correct ... if you stay away from the forums (forums bring opinion, even well intentioned ones). There is a specific part of the site which is called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motor Oil University&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; which describes in detail the way oil &quot;works&quot;, how it is described, and what all the numbers/symbols mean on the can. I believe it answers your questions about oil, but is way too long to repost here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:47:17.250" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T12:24:49.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5236" CreationDate="2014-10-07T13:07:20.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While most tires will require replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is advocated that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear service able and even if they have not made the legal wear limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T13:24:43.187" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T13:24:43.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16816" CreationDate="2014-10-07T13:24:08.187" Score="1" ViewCount="8338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Lantis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manual 97 Mazda Lantis 323 1.8L DOHC 16 Valve BP&lt;/a&gt; and I was amazed that it went through 1/4 tank gas ( about 12.5 liters or 3.3 gallons ) in one day after about 60 kilometers / 37 miles of city driving.  That seems &lt;strong&gt;extremely&lt;/strong&gt; bad.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/mazda/323&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Fuelly&lt;/a&gt; it should be getting around 26 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the idle seems excessively fast, about typically between 1700 to 2000 rmp when I would expect it to be closer to 800 to 1k rpm.  It's like I'm cruising down the highway while sitting at a stop light in neutral.  It's a manual transmission and the previous owner said they had recently had the throttle replaced and it was replaced with a second hand throttle from an automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the idle the likely culprit or could it be some other problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T07:07:36.133" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T09:29:51.007" Title="Fast Idle and High Fuel Consumption" Tags="|mazda|fuel-consumption|idle|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T14:02:25.177" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2002 Hyundai Accent with diesel engine. It is throwing diesel from engine when gives speed. It sprays lots of oil from last diesel pipe. And in neutral when I start the engine.  Its throws a small flow of diesel. What should I do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel leaking from fuel tubing area from last pipe&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T14:13:51.450" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T14:13:51.450" Title="Diesel Engine throwing fuel from last engine pipe when engine starts" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|accent|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:53:02.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12618" CreationDate="2014-10-07T14:08:58.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to do a throttle position sensor recalibration (reset). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I will post several different adjustment versions. I believe the top one is what you need (for a K8 engine), but will include another four depending on your engine.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this for your vehicle you need to follow the steps below, depending on whether it is a stick/auto and which engine (SOHC or DOHC). I will include all the different descriptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.8L (K8) Engine:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach the connector from the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter between terminals IDL and GND.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the throttle linkage by hand. With the throttle valve fully closed, the ohmmeter should read 0.1-1.1 volts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the throttle valve fully open, the ohmmeter should read 3.1-4.4 volts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not as specified, adjust or replace the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOHC Manual Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach the connector from the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is continuity between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then replace the feeler gauge with a 0.02 in. (1.0mm) feeler gauge, verify there is no continuity between terminals IDL and E .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then open the throttle wide and verify there is no continuity again between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, connect the ohmmeter between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is no continuity between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then replace the feeler gauge with 0.02 in. (1.0mm), verify there is no continuity between terminals POW andE.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then open the throttle wide and verify there is continuity between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not as specified, adjust or replace the throttle sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SOHC Automatic Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach the connector from the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is continuity between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.024 in. (0.6mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is continuity no between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter to the throttle sensor terminals Vt and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that resistance increases as throttle valve opening increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With throttle valve fully closed the resistance should be below 1 kilohm and as throttle valve is fully opened resistance should increase to approximately 5 kohms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not as specified, adjust or replace the throttle sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DOHC Manual Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach the connector from the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is continuity between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then replace the feeler gauge with a 0.027 in. (0.7mm) feeler gauge, verify there is no continuity between terminals IDL and E&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then open the throttle wide and verify there is no continuity again between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, connect the ohmmeter between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is no continuity between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then replace the feeler gauge with 0.027 in (0.7mm), verify there is no continuity between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then open the throttle wide and verify there is continuity between terminals POW and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not as specified, adjust or replace the throttle sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DOHC Automatic Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach the connector from the throttle position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.004 in. (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is continuity between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a 0.024 in. (0.6mm) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify there is no continuity between terminals IDL and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect an ohmmeter to the throttle sensor terminals Vt and E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that resistance increases as throttle valve opening increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With throttle valve fully closed the resistance should be below 1 kilohm and as throttle valve is fully opened resistance should increase to approximately 5 kohms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not as specified, adjust or replace the throttle sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; These procedures were pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb0f65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoZone.com&lt;/a&gt; and are specified for the Protege which should be the same for the Lantis 323, as these are supposed to be the same platform and engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TPS should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wiDEk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector face should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kx8D1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to do if this doesn't work would be to clean the throttle body area (inside/out) completely. Also, consider changing out the before cat O2 (lambda) sensors. If these are lazy, you would see a large increase in gas usage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; One other thing to check is to ensure you don't have any vacuum leaks ... completely forgot to mention this. I'd specifically check around areas where the work was done, like at the throttle body. This might account for the higher than normal RPM as well as the high gas usage. When the O2 sensor &quot;sees&quot; the higher than normal oxygen level in the exhaust stream, it dumps more fuel into the mix and your gas mileage suffers. Seems like it would be the other way around, but it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T17:58:11.050" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T17:58:11.050" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T22:24:57.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2015 Subaru WRX Sti is emitting white smoke from the exhaust. The smoke smells like burning electronics.  When I pull over and open up the hood, I also see white smoke in the engine bay. The smoke is not overwhelming or anything, but you definitely see it. My engine temps are normal according to the temp gauge, i have no engine check lights, the oil indicator is not lit, I don't notice any type of rough idling or irregularities in the feel of the engine. What could be going on?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7153" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T03:11:39.217" Title="2015 STI White smoke" Tags="|engine|oil|subaru|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12622" CreationDate="2014-10-07T22:28:45.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to the dealership and have them fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I guess you could also have a leak in the cooling system somewhere it mates up with the intake tract ... this would be better than a blown head gasket, but is still not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T00:06:04.013" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:06:04.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T23:06:45.127" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1970 Camaro and put the wrong Ball-Joint in the upper control arm. Does anyone have an idea on how to change it without a motor? I can't drill a hole in the garage floor to anchor the frame. I'm thinking a ratchet strap or maybe a boomer to compress it. Any suggestions would great. This project is more  complicated; I've read that the model before 1970 1/2 are actually a 1969 frame until model change in the spring of 1970. I have a 69 Ball-joint (it was a different part#) coming tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7154" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T23:54:37.173" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:03:59.627" Title="How to change Ball-Joint with No Motor" Tags="|suspension|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12624" CreationDate="2014-10-08T00:03:59.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to go down to AutoZone or the like and rent a spring compressor from them. Charge is minimal (if anything ... some places allow you to borrow with a deposit). I would not try to use a rachet strap, as it would have a high likelihood of slipping and allowing the spring to fly out ... Well maybe not, since the shock goes down the middle of it, but it would not be pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:03:59.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6682" CreationDate="2014-10-08T00:58:17.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested three rebuilt gearboxes from two different manufacturers.  They all had extra play in them.  I'm assuming that they don't replace worn components, but just repack everything and put in new seals.  From my experience, I highly recommend that you bring a vise-wrench to the parts store and test the gearbox before you buy it. To perform the test, I took a vise-wrench to the input and turned it back and forth.  If the pitman arm did not move when I turned the input shaft, then I knew the gear box was bad.  I went to a ford dealer and ordered a oem rebuilt gearbox, and it tested fine.  No play.  So, at least with the Ford E-250 it's best to go OEM, even though it's more than double the cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed it in August, and it's been steering well ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:58:17.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12654" CreationDate="2014-10-08T05:32:24.613" Score="28" ViewCount="510818" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the different problems that can cause an engine to burn oil and in general how difficult / expensive is each one to repair?  How do you diagnose each potential cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this article which describes some of the problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/233&quot;&gt;Why Does My Engine Use Oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen three things so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad Piston Rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad PCV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve Guide Seals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding diagnosing oil consumption and smoke the above article says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With older vehicles this was typically accompanied with a puff of&#xA;  smoke from the exhaust. With modern vehicles, the catalytic converter&#xA;  usually prevents smoke. Smoke in the exhaust is vaporized by the&#xA;  converter. Unfortunately, this may drastically raise the temperature&#xA;  and damage the converter, over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T15:22:46.777" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T00:04:07.387" Title="What causes an engine to burn oil?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12653" CreationDate="2014-10-08T09:37:27.290" Score="2" ViewCount="6722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VOD Dayton MS 4150 car radio:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/185772/Vdo-Dayton-Ms-4150-Rs.html?page=4#manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/185772/Vdo-Dayton-Ms-4150-Rs.html?page=4#manual&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;with a 8-pins CD changer port (C3 on the manual). The radio does not have an aux function. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ff09s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is to connect my phone with an aux cable to the radio.. what i've found so far is this;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ycarlink.com/pd_10533_Car-MP3-WMA-Integration-kit-for-Renault-Siemens-VDO-Dayton-8-pin-USB-SD-AUX-Bluetooth-adapter-.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ycarlink.com/pd_10533_Car-MP3-WMA-Integration-kit-for-Renault-Siemens-VDO-Dayton-8-pin-USB-SD-AUX-Bluetooth-adapter-.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xU48x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;However that's a complete digital USB/aux package, quite expensive. It says on that page it will be able to fit into the CDC port of that specific radio. &#xA;something like $80&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I was just wondering.. if I could use something like this:&#xA;Just a regular 3.5mm audio jack - 8 pins cable to the CDC port and if that will work (or not)?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHZGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7156" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T07:17:41.860" Title="8 pin aux audo cable into cd-changer port on radio?" Tags="|audio|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12678" CreationDate="2014-10-08T11:01:04.433" Score="5" ViewCount="11580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey (Japanese Imported). I am located in New Zealand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you would remove the strut by loosening the c-clip and easily snap the strut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my struts do not have c-clips. What would be the best way to remove them, so that I can replace them with new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7Yvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top of Strut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1e4rf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bototm of strut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7158" LastEditorUserId="7158" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T11:12:10.450" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T05:24:30.840" Title="How to remove a tailgate strut that do not have a c-clip" Tags="|honda|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11721" CreationDate="2014-10-08T12:59:32.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always found that an owners' forum for your specific make/model is the best source of information. FOr instance, here's a Nissan Owners Club from the UK: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanownersclub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nissanownersclub.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always someone who takes things very seriously and can help you with just about any piece of information you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T12:59:32.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12631" CreationDate="2014-10-08T13:46:12.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They simply pop off. Gently pry them off, the spring holding it on the ball is internal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; (Adding some descriptive pics for Larry)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place a large flat tip screwdriver where the red arrow is at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mnClJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the green flat piece is the screwdriver. Place one side of it at the base of the post. Place the other at on the rod. Twist it as shown to pop the rod off of the stud. This gives you a sturdy place to pry from and a place for good leverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1wPK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T23:44:44.450" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T23:44:44.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T14:37:34.523" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I adjusted my chain, correctly, but some times when I check it, it feels to tight. If I roll the bike forward a bit it goes back to being correct looseness, is the normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7162" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:09:50.127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:09:50.127" Title="Chain Tightening Guidance" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T15:22:18.477" Score="4" ViewCount="55399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if the Prestone Power Steering Fluid + Stop Leak compatible with my '07 Toyota Camry LE's (4 cyl) power steering fluid specifications since i don't see any mention of its use aside from saying its claim &quot;Developed for use in GM, Ford, Chrysler, and most foreign cars and light trucks.&quot; Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7163" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T21:18:19.963" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T05:46:14.193" Title="Power Steering Fluid Compatibility" Tags="|toyota|power-steering|camry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T16:28:51.353" Score="4" ViewCount="8370" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light came on and I took it to the parts store to get the computer read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The error that came up is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the probable causes listed were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 - Faulty Air Solenoid Valve&#xA;2 - Faulty Air Pump Motor&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple questions, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the impact of this problem?  I.e. will I hurt anything if I keep driving it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can someone point me in the right direction to fix this myself?  Don't mind doing it but MV maintenance is certainly not my area of expertise, to the degree that if I popped the hood I couldn't point out the air pump.  I am pretty good at following directions though :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT BELOW&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got home and popped the hood.  Hoping someone can give me some direction here.  My best guess, and this is a complete WAG, is that the air pump is the part I circled and that the solenoid valve is the part that sticks up and to the right out of the pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please correct me if I am wrong.  Also if someone could provide a cheapest to most expensive list of the potential fixes that would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrEXC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T11:27:52.027" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T21:47:03.293" Title="2004 Jetta - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect" Tags="|vw|cel|smog-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2014-10-08T17:27:33.920" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;An engine that burns oil not only wastes oil but can damage spark plugs, cause the ignition to misfire and eventually affect the catalytic converter. The burning oil can also cause higher emissions, resulting in failed emissions tests due to excess hydrocarbon production&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REASONS FOR ENGINE OIL BURNS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.Worn Valve Guides&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the valves wear down the cylindrical chambers, or valve guides, that keep them on track and create a gap in the chambers, this gap allows oil to flow into the combustion chamber, where it then burns. Once the gap becomes too big, the valve seal cannot prevent the oil from making it into the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.Bad Valve Seals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve seals prevent the flow of oil into the engine. If the valve seals fail or are broken, cracked, worn down or improperly installed, the oil will be sucked into the engine and cylinders,the compression may not be affected by the leaking oil  but the engine will use a lot more oil than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.Pressurized Oil Pan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If carbon, a byproduct of the engine, builds up in the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, it can clog the system. Generally, the PCV system acts as an exhaust or breathing passage for the engine, but build-up pressurizes the oil pan. This pressure pushes oil into the engine through the fuel delivery system, and the oil burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.Worn Piston Rings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piston rings that seal the engine's combustion chamber wear out, the pressure is sent back down to the oil pan, creating the same end result as when carbon builds up in the PCV system.If the rings are installed upside down, twisted onto the pistons or not staggered correctly, the result will be the same as if they had worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagnosing the problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-Check the oil&lt;/strong&gt;. Open your car's hood and pull out the oil dipstick. Wipe the dipstick clean with a clean rag and insert it back into its tube. Pull the dipstick back out and check the level of the oil. Add oil until the dipstick reads full. Repeat this every 500 miles. If it reads a quart low in 500 miles, you have an oil burning problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-Check the exhaust&lt;/strong&gt;. Blue smoke coming from a car's exhaust pipe while it is running is a sign of oil burning. Smell the exhaust. An engine that is burning oil produces higher emissions. It will also fail to pass an emissions test due to elevated hydrocarbon emission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-Monitor the engine&lt;/strong&gt; to see if it is misfiring or running rough. An engine that is burning oil will foul the spark plugs, causing it to run rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-Inspect the spark plugs&lt;/strong&gt;. Pull the spark plug wires off one spark plug. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. Examine the spark plug. An oily, wet or sooty spark plug terminal is a sign of oil burning. Replace the spark plug and wire. Repeat for each spark plug, working on one spark plug at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIAGNOSING INDIVIDUAL CAUSES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PCV system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve guides and valve seals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the engine for several minutes at idle. Turn the engine off and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Restart the engine and immediately increase the engine speed while observing the exhaust. If a heavy billow of bluish smoke is exhausted then disappears and the exhaust remains relatively clean, the most likely cause is excessive valve guide wear. In this case, the valve guides or valve guide seals require service. If the above test only produces mild smoke and the smoke remains at the same level during all operating conditions, the piston rings will have to be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worn out Piston rings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;:Compression testers are available at most auto parts stores. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper usage. When performing a compression test it is critical that the ignition system be disabled to prevent the engine from starting. This is usually done by connecting a wire to each of the spark plug wires to a good engine ground away from your work area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you .Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T06:22:52.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12652" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:34:42.583" Score="3" ViewCount="1715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of information about how to check and adjust front toe at home using the string method, but it seems to rely on rear wheels that are properly aligned. I understand that the rear wheels on my 2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport also have adjustable toe, so am wondering how to check rear alignment using a DIY method like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I am interested in this because I am replacing a rear strut, and hear that one should check/adjust alignment after doing so. Is it necessary to do so for the rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T03:21:49.170" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T03:21:49.170" Title="Should I check my rear toe after replacing a rear strut, and how?" Tags="|subaru|alignment|struts|awd|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:44:26.830" Score="0" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a 2-2.5 (between two and two-and-a-half) ton saloon car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;between 7-15 years old&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parked on an incline of around 20-30 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for roughly 8 hours a day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 days a week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can the expected damage/wear (if any) on the handbrake be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that the handbrake is handled normally and not &quot;yanked&quot; up each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3446" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:37.453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:27:37.453" Title="Impact/Effect on handbrake when parked on incline?" Tags="|manual-transmission|parking|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4187" CreationDate="2014-10-08T19:23:38.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hole was prepared the same as a cold patch. The hot patch was clamped in place with a special clamp. The patch was lit with a match and the patch was vulcanized to the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7165" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T21:06:46.387" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:06:46.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12636" CreationDate="2014-10-08T19:43:59.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is common for a chain to be tighter in certain spots than others, owing to some slight eccentricity of the sprockets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The generally accepted practice is to adjust chain tension relative to the tightest spot you can find, so that you avoid creating overly-tight spots, which could drastically accelerate the wear of the chain potentially leading to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T19:43:59.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12638" CreationDate="2014-10-08T19:58:11.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The secondary air injection system is part of the emissions control system. Under certain operating conditions, the secondary air pump runs to bring fresh air into the exhaust system. It supports the proper function of the catalytic converter by making sure there's enough oxygen in the exhaust gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it hurt anything to drive the car? It could potentially lead to early failure of the catalytic converter, which is an expensive item on these VWs (don't ask me how I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one fix the problem? The &quot;probable causes&quot; you listed are a really good start. You should test the function of these two items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the easy way that requires some specialized tools: They can be checked with a specialized diagnostic tool like the VAG COM cable and software, which allows certain components like solenoid valves and motors to be to be tested by cycling power on and off to these components. This should be done with the engine off, if the component is working you will hear it operate. Solenoids should &quot;click&quot;, and motors should &quot;whir.&quot; The advantage here is you don't need to get your hands dirty, unplug anything, or even know where the components are located in the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The harder way with no specialized tools is to locate the components in question and directly apply power to them with a length of suitable wire, again listening for a click or a whir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible causes would be a break in the plumbing of the secondary air system or a connector that popped loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT IN RESPONSE TO NEW IMAGE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have circled is the mass airflow sensor, which has nothing to do with the secondary air system. If I recall correctly, the secondary air pump is below the engine, on the front side, slightly to the left (drivers side) of the centerline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T19:04:16.057" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T19:04:16.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12631" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:16:10.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they really are 'stuck on': Using a Dremal or other mini disc cutter, cut into the ball section of the strut until it will pry off easily. A regular event for some vehicles. Do not lever too hard with the gas strut or you will bend the vehicles bodywork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:16:10.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12638" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:23:04.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The secondry air pump and system is provided on your vehicle to 'lean out' the exhaust in the cat, until the cat is hot enough to operate correctly. This usually lasts for only a couple of minutes on start-up and then the SAP is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:23:04.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12597" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:24:07.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's important to protecting your engine is having the correct oil viscosity under the anticipated operating conditions (most importantly anticipated oil temperatures). As Bob Cross pointed out, these operating conditions (oil temperatures) are as much a product of the design of the engine as they are a product of the ambient temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such you won't find a &lt;strong&gt;generic&lt;/strong&gt; chart of suitable ambient temperatures for different grades of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, however, very common to find an &lt;strong&gt;application-specific&lt;/strong&gt; chart of recommended oil viscosities for different ambient temperatures in the owners manual for a vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paulster2's link to  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motor Oil University&lt;/a&gt; at BobIsTheOilGuy is definitely a good reference for further reading on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:24:07.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:27:56.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once any cabling has stretched to its full amount, there will be no ill effect. The handbrake on your vehicle has been designed to cope with its weight. A extra precaution you can do, if only for peace of mind is: Leave the vehicle in gear; turn the steering to point at the pavement(sidewalk) and apply the handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:27:56.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12640" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:32:11.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you consider that you are adjusting your track to mere millimeters across a width of a couple of metres you will realise what a complete folly it would be to use a 'piece of string'. Compound this by the setting of the four wheels and you should be convinced of the complete viability of a four-wheel tracking adjustment at your favourite tyre shop or repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:32:11.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12637" CreationDate="2014-10-08T20:39:15.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles will accept automatic transmission fluid in the power steering, but it is not worth detracting from the vehicle manufacturers recommendation. If you do use an alternative fluid without a recommendation for its use, you run the very real chance of destroying the internal rubbers/seals in the system. If you have an oil leak on your system then you should have it repaired, and use the correct fluid. A loss of power-assisted steering whilst driving could end up in a catastrophic accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T20:39:15.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12637" CreationDate="2014-10-08T21:28:47.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20130717231707/http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM33748U/pdf/08.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pdf document&lt;/a&gt; put out by Toyota, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Power steering fluid type: Automatic transmission fluid DEXRON II or III&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how DEXRON II and DEXRON III are used by GM in their vehicles (over the years ... now it's the newer versions), the Prestone product you are looking at should be just fine in there and should cause your vehicle no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-06-02T19:42:57.600" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T19:42:57.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12640" CreationDate="2014-10-08T21:40:36.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check the rear toe in exactly the same way you check the front toe -- using the same string setup, parallel to the car's centerline, measure the distance from the string to the leading and trailing edges of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be careful of is that the rear tread (a.k.a. track) may be different than the front. When you're lining up your string, you have to compensate in your measurements to be sure that it is parallel to the centerline. For example, on my Fozzie the rear tread is 57.1 inches but the front is 58.1. Thus, I'd initially measure out a half-inch more from the rear hub in order to get the string correctly situated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the rear toe adjustment on your car is accomplished using an eccentric bolt like the front camber bolt. It's locked with a nut that Subaru recommends be replaced when it is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASIOC &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1093484&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has a pretty darned thorough thread&lt;/a&gt; on the procedure, although unfortunately the images seem to have gone missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you replace suspension components, you should check your alignment. I've heard that some shops may put your car on the rack for free and give you a printout of the measurements, but I'm somewhat skeptical of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:40:36.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12630" CreationDate="2014-10-08T21:56:10.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to use something like this, but there are trade-offs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;kit&quot; you show is plug-n-play. You'll have to repin the 3.5mm cabling to allow you to utilize it, unless you can find one which will work specifically with your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you'll be able to do with the 3.5mm cable is pipe audio through it. With the &quot;kit&quot;, you should be able to control your device directly from the car stereo. Getting the kit would allow you to control things &quot;hands-free&quot;, especially if you have steering wheel controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost is one thing, but ease of use and installation can make up for a lot of the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T21:56:10.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2014-10-08T22:22:37.547" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Towards the diagnosis end of things, there are some general guidelines to follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing smoke coming from your exhaust, what color is the smoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's blue, then it's oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's black, it means you are running rich (too much fuel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's white, the car may be burning antifreeze or (quite rare) auto-trans fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's blue smoke you are seeing, you can know that oil is the problem. What can cause oil smoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the smoke only comes at start-up and quickly goes away, it can be valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because while the car sits for extended periods of time, the oil has time to seep past the valve seal and collect on top of the valve (or if the valve is in the open position, it could run past and on top of the piston). When you go to start your car, the oil is then burned, giving the tell tale puff of blue smoke. &lt;strong&gt;COST TO FIX:&lt;/strong&gt; There is moderate cost involved with this, depending on the vehicle/engine. If just the seals, this can be accomplished most of the time with keeping the engine mostly together and replacing the seals. Most of the cost here is labor. If the valve guides, this requires an engine tear down. Your heads will have to be taken apart and new guides installed. There is a lot more labor here and a bit more in parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you see smoke as you are decelerating, this too is a possible sign of valve seals and/or valve guides. This is because as you decelerate, there is a large vacuum build up within the intake tract. There is enough vacuum to pull oil past the valve seal if it's worn. &lt;strong&gt;COST TO FIX:&lt;/strong&gt; Same as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you see smoke while accelerating, this is a sign your oil control rings are worn. These are the bottom rings used in the ring pack. When they are worn (or the cylinders are worn past tolerance), oil can flow past the rings as the piston travels down the cylinder. The oil control rings normally will scrape the cylinder of the oil, pushing it back down into the crankcase. &lt;strong&gt;COST TO FIX:&lt;/strong&gt; Their fix is quite expensive, as it requires a complete engine rebuild to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a PCV is bad, you normally won't see burning oil. What you'll see is seals and gaskets failing. This can cause a loss of oil (and a very dirty engine bay). It's one of those things which can sneak up on you if you aren't paying attention. While a bad PCV is not a good thing, don't look here for a reason you're seeing oil smoke coming out the tail pipe. &lt;strong&gt;COST TO FIX:&lt;/strong&gt; If you catch it before it becomes an issue, it's actually quite cheap to fix ... just replace the valve. If you see leaks at seals or gaskets, your expense goes way up, but it depends on which seal or gasket is leaking. Easy to get to seals or gaskets will cost much less, because the labor is much less. The converse holds true - Labor is a determining factor here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing blue smoke which goes away after an oil change, but slowly comes back as you get closer to your scheduled maintenance, this could be a sign you have an internal fuel leak which is thinning the oil. As the oil gets thinner it passes by the oil control rings easier, causing your vehicle to smoke. An easy way to check this is by pulling the dipstick and smelling the oil. If you smell fuel, this may be the issue. This can be caused by an injector which is stuck open, or possibly an internal failure of a fuel pressure valve which would allow the gas to escape to where it doesn't belong. &lt;strong&gt;COST TO FIX:&lt;/strong&gt; Diagnosis of what is going on will take a little bit of money. This could be a very low cost fix, to a moderate cost, depending on the actual cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not seeing smoke, but you're seeing the oil drop lower and lower as time moves on, this may be a &amp;quot;sort of&amp;quot; normal oil usage in your vehicle. Take for instance my '06 Chevrolet Silverado. Its engine is an LS variant. As these engines get up in age, it is common for them to use more oil. You don't see it from the exhaust, but it uses it up, none the less. The engine still runs great and the gas mileage has stayed about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle could also be losing oil via leakage (or seepage). As engines get up in mileage, this is a very common thing. If you see spots on the driveway where you park the car, this could very well be the issue. Be mindful that vehicles will loose more oil during operation than they will just sitting in your driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; In deference to your edit - I can see where an up-to-temperature catalytic convertor might make some difference in smoke from the tail pipe. This does not hold true, though, for start-up smoke (puff of blue smoke), as the cat is not hot enough to make a difference. It also won't make any difference once the catalyst is covered in oil suit or if there is too much oil for the cat to deal with. Sooner or later when oil gets burnt in this manner, you'll see the blue smoke. You probably have to put new cats on at that point, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T00:04:07.387" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T00:04:07.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T00:41:26.997" Score="1" ViewCount="4354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 08 Hyundai Santa Fe, 86k miles, check engine light came on, then I smelled fuel.  I had it scanned and it said Evap Leak Large, fuel level sensors.  Can this be correct?  Should it be the fuel pressure sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7167" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T19:58:01.760" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T19:10:00.957" Title="08 Hyundai Santa Fe Evap Leak (Large)" Tags="|hyundai|evap|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2014-10-09T01:22:43.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same grinding noise on my Pontiac Bonneville. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brake pads and rotors were installed not long ago. I think in my case its my ceramic brake pads heating up the rotors creating a grinding noise. Once the rotors cool down they work fine, but if I brake hard at a high speed the grinding noise returns and will continue  until they cool down. The noise however does not  effect the car from stopping true, it just sounds real bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet if I changed my brake pads from ceramic to semi metallic the noise will go away. I think the heat of the rotors against the ceramic are making the noise. Maybe slotted rotors would dissipate the heat and stop the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7171" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T12:23:50.093" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T12:23:50.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T03:19:18.383" Score="0" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Mercedes E500 - Yes, I am sure of it. In a moment of stupidity, I added about 8oz of motor oil to the coolant reserve. I have heard nothing will happen and I've also heard it can mess up the radiator. I have not started the engine yet - this just happened. How much trouble am I in? What do I need to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7172" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T06:53:27.770" Title="Motor Oil in Coolant Reserve" Tags="|oil|coolant|cooling-system|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-09T19:00:55.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12655" CreationDate="2014-10-09T06:49:53.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EVAP system prevents excess vacuum and vapor buildup in a sealed fuel tank system. A big difference is the ability of the enhanced system to monitor it's operation. The vehicle will run a vacuum or a pressure test depending on the model and inform the PCM of any leak greater than 0.020 in. (0.5 mm). Certain criteria (the drive cycle) must be met for the test to run and the large leak test is always run before the small leak test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;P0457 gross&lt;/strong&gt; leak detected code is often the result of the vehicle operators not tightening the refueling cap correctly after refueling. The same is true for the P0455 large leak code. Please note that a loose gas cap is not the only possible cause, but it is certainly the most likely. It could also be a cracked or loose hose, faulty gas tank seams, or anything else that may cause a large leak in the sealed EVAP system. A thorough visual inspection will often reveal loose hoses and lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCM will run a &lt;strong&gt;large leak test&lt;/strong&gt; when it receives a signal from the fuel level sensor indicating an increase in fuel level (after refueling). If the fuel filler cap were left loose or worse off the fill tube, the PCM would set a pending code and illuminate the MIL in an attempt to warn the driver of the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are some Powetrain Control Module diagnostic codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0441: Incorrect purge flow (PURGE VALVE LEAK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0442: Small leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0443: Purge solenoid electrical fault&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0446: Blocked canister vent (HIGH SYSTEM VACUUM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0449: Canister vent solenoid electrical fault&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0452: Tank pressure sensor voltage (LOW)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0453: Tank pressure sensor voltage (HIGH)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0454: Tank pressure sensor voltage (NOISY)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0455: LARGE LEAK (LOW SYSTEM VACUUM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0456: Very small leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0457: GROSS LEAK (CAP OFF)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0460: Fuel level circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0461: Fuel level sensor (STUCK/NOISY)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0462: Fuel level sensor (VOLTAGE LOW)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0463: Fuel level sensor (VOLTAGE HIGH)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0464: Fuel level sensor (VOLTAGE NOISY AT IDLE)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T06:49:53.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12658" CreationDate="2014-10-09T06:53:27.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the coolant reservoir flushed and replace it with new coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T06:53:27.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T15:26:52.063" Score="7" ViewCount="17449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that it's &quot;normal&quot; for older cars to burn a certain amount of oil and that it's not really a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how much is too much?  At what threshold does burning oil become a problem for an &quot;old&quot; car and how is &quot;old&quot; defined in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T16:29:17.170" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T05:35:58.077" Title="Old Cars Burning Oil: How much is too much?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12663" CreationDate="2014-10-09T15:36:27.690" Score="3" ViewCount="3521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Matrix in a place that is too salt-happy during the winter. The following rusted off and fell out from the inner side of the front wheel -- looks like a mud guard of some sort. Is it anything I should bother replacing before winter starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abhFH.png&quot; alt=&quot;rusted off and fell out&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7176" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T00:57:00.153" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T00:57:00.153" Title="Identifying a crescent-shaped thin sheet of metal that has rusted off the wheel area" Tags="|toyota|brake-rotor|part-identification|matrix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12662" CreationDate="2014-10-09T16:46:30.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a dust shield (or sometimes called a backing plate) for the rotor on the disk brake system. It would cover the back side of the rotor. You would be able to see it if you got under the car and looked at the rotor from the back side. I'm not positive about this, though, as this piece is pretty mangled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T16:46:30.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T18:42:51.710" Score="8" ViewCount="2599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you disconnect a wire so gas will not pump into the cylinder?  I have a spark plug blown out and need to get my 2003 F150 5.4 Trition engine home without paying another tow charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T18:50:53.527" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:57:31.520" Title="Can you stop fuel delivery to one cylinder of a 2003 Ford F150 with 5.4L Triton Engine?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2014-10-09T18:59:23.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine does have one injector per cylinder (multipoint fuel injection), which is a good start. Some engines have single point injection, in which case you could not selectively cut fuel to a given cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugging the control wires to a fuel injector will stop the fuel delivery from that injector, as injectors are &quot;normally closed&quot; and require power to their solenoids to open the valve and deliver fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from what I've seen the fuel injectors are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nONPcU4djiQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pretty well buried&lt;/a&gt; on that particular engine, you'd have to remove quite a few other components in the engine bay to gain access, so I doubt this technique would be worth your while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="2002" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T19:23:04.960" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T19:23:04.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12696" CreationDate="2014-10-09T19:45:22.713" Score="2" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My VW Polo's coolant overflows out of the expansion tank. It's like there is too much pressure, causing the coolant to boil out of the tank, yet the temperature is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan always kicks in, but after acceleration the coolant expands and overflows through the relief valve. When the engine is off, all the coolant is sucked in, leaving the reserve tank empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7180" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T22:11:52.507" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:54:39.960" Title="Coolant overflows into overflow when accelerating, but completely empties when car cools" Tags="|vw|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T20:29:47.470" Score="1" ViewCount="4145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing brakes shoes on 2003 Ford Taurus SE, having problem disconnecting the brake shoe lever from the brake cable. How do I relieve the spring pressure on the emergency brake cable that's at the bottom of the brake shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7129" LastEditorUserId="7129" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T20:51:35.823" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T22:52:03.333" Title="Ford Taurus Rear Brake Job: How to relieve spring pressure on emergency brake cable?" Tags="|ford|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12665" CreationDate="2014-10-09T22:33:19.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of where the injector sits on the engine and what to look for to see if you can get at it. Since the one in the video which @mac provided is a 2007, this is a picture of one which is for your year (I believe they were the same from 1997-2003). Hopefully it will help you figure out if you can do it or not. Depending on which cylinder it is, you may be in luck. The injector is the yellow thing to the right of the oil cap at the very bottom of the picture (your injector may not be yellow but will be in the same location and basically the same shape ... these may not be stock). If you remove the grey connector, this will effectively shut down your injector. To remove the grey connector, there are two clips on the outside of it. While pushing down slightly on the connector, press in on the two clips at the top. The connector should pull right off after that (this may be a little difficult until you figure out exactly what you're doing). The chrome looking thing which is connected to the top of the injector is the fuel rail (and I'm not talking about the ratchet extension here folks! :D). You can follow this all the way back to find the other three. You should be looking for pretty much the same thing for the other side of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ne0CR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2003 Ford Triton V8 Injector Location - From F150forum.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T22:33:19.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12668" CreationDate="2014-10-09T22:52:03.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you don't. The easiest way to get this off of there is to grab the little lead (metal) collet at the of the brake cable with either a pair of locking pliers (like Vise-Grips) with enough force to hold on it, but not enough force to deform it. Then just pull it off of the brake shoe arm. This can be done with regular pliers as well, it's just easier with locking ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better trick is actually getting e-brake cable back onto the brake shoe. The trick I've learned here is to again, grab the end of the cable with a pair of Vise-Grips. The with another pair, wiggle it down around the cable, between the first pair of Vise-Grips and the spring. Then, without crimping the cable yet, push the spring back as far as you can push it (or by pulling the cable out further). Once you have a generous amount of brake cable, clamp the cable with the second pair of Vice-Grips well enough to not slip on the cable, but again, with not enough force to deform the cable. Remove the first set of Vice-Grips and you should have enough room to simply place the cable into the groove on the brake shoe arm. Once there, just remove the Vice-Grips from the cable and let the tension from the spring hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T22:52:03.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12693" CreationDate="2014-10-10T00:07:58.240" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across the mention of the VW T40057 tool, that can be attached to the oil filter housing, and lets you drain the oil without creating a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not very clear whether or not this drains the whole 5 or 6 litres of oil from the oil pan, or whether it simply drains the oil only from the oil filter (e.g. just some 1 litre or so?), and you still need to drain the rest of the oil from the oil pan by unscrewing and replacing the oil drain plug (which is separate from the oil filter assembly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mkv-gti.net/wiki/index.php?title=Changing_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mkv-gti.net/wiki/index.php?title=Changing_oil&lt;/a&gt; -- mentions that you could use the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVUwPeEvMWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube: Thomas EXOVCDS: VW &amp;amp; Audi: T40057 Oil Filter Housing Draining Tool&lt;/a&gt; -- a video of using the tool, not clear whether the whole oil is drained, or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T23:36:08.207" Title="Does VW T40057 drain all 6 litres of oil in 2008 Jetta 2.5L?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|jetta|oil-pan|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2014-10-10T01:19:13.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend to pull them away from your windshield during a storm if there is a risk that it will melt and then freeze later (for example if you just drove your car or if the temperature is just below the freezing point but you are expecting sun later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so may make the snow melt, go in the arm mechanism/spring and freeze there, making it hard to put back in place and reduce the efficiency of the spring if you take the road again, which will have the unfortunate effect of reducing the contact between the blades and the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same effect can happen and freeze the blades to the windshield if you leave them in place, so there is no win-win. If a big storm is coming, you can always put cardboard or plastic bags to prevent the snow from falling there and remove them before taking the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7183" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T01:19:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12680" CreationDate="2014-10-10T04:18:33.643" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any proper source where I could find a list of cars with Dual Mass Flywheels (DMF)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an opportunity to buy the said car, but I had some bad experience with DMF, so I would avoid them at all costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, does anyone know if the 162kw petrol Lancia Kappa has one?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7032" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T08:57:06.227" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:43:13.503" Title="Lancia Kappa SW Turbo Dual Mass Flywheel" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12685" CreationDate="2014-10-10T04:33:07.320" Score="3" ViewCount="18351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive changed my oil about one month ago but just recently my check oil light has started coming on and I started losing my heat. I thought I might just have low antifreeze but when I opened my radiator cap I found a giant glob of brown mud clogged up under the cap. I scooped it out and it feels thick but has an oily texture. There is still a lot left in my cooling system. I know Dexcool coolant is capable of this but with my unrealistic drop in my oil I was wondering it it could be a head gasket or intake gasket leak? I had just done a complete flush of my cooling system about 7 to 8 months ago as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7185" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T03:16:58.413" Title="What causes mud in my radiator?" Tags="|oil|coolant|oil-change|radiator|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12631" CreationDate="2014-10-10T05:24:30.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted the official Honda dealer in New Zealand. They confirmed that I need to replace the entire assembly, rather than just the arm alone. They are not the &quot;pop out&quot; variety. The cost is NZD305 EACH, rather expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted a local mechanic who said the same thing: need to replace whole assembly. He got a second hand one for NZD92, plus NZD28 labour. He assured me the second hand one is in good condition and should last a couple of years. I could have saved the labour cost the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Currently 1 NZD = 0.79 USD, or 0.49 UK pound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is the 2006 Honda Odyssey (Japanese version), model DBA-RB1. The strut assembly is made by Showa. I've included a few pictures of the old part that's been taken out:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1kYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom End&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/st1Sq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top End&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwhQa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The whole thing&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boHtk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Label&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7158" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T05:24:30.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12692" CreationDate="2014-10-10T07:05:09.163" Score="2" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in continuation to my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/12618/7132&quot;&gt;Fast Idle and High Fuel Consumption&lt;/a&gt;.  I just bought a Manual 97 Mazda Lantis 323 1.8L DOHC 16 Valve BP ( apparently called a Protege in the US ) which has a fast idle and is consuming lot's of fuel, giving black smoke out the back if you rev the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous owner told me that he recently replaced the throttle body and attached TPS with a second hand one from the same model automatic version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QWJe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle Body Front View&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this makes a difference - it seems to me from the answer to my previous question that the TPS on the automatic and the manual operate differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:23:13.473" Title="Automatic Throttle Body and TPS on a Manual" Tags="|fuel-consumption|throttle|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12676" CreationDate="2014-10-10T07:48:10.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know DMF is expensive, but if you really like a car and don't wonna have a DMF, you can change it to regular fix flywheel. Valeo producing such a kits. So just check, if there exist such a kit for your car. I don't think there is a list of DMF cars, but you can ask you part shop which one is in for the car you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="3975" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T20:40:22.110" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:40:22.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-10T08:41:18.580" Score="3" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that checking tyre pressure is a very important thing before making long journeys. However, I have no idea how frequently I should check my tyre pressures. For example, If I travel round-trip 20 miles, do I really need to be panicky and check my tyre pressure or do I just leg it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I know that modern cars have the tyre pressures indicated both in user handbook and the lower side of the driver door (where it touches the middle frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any recommendation to what tyre inflator equipment I should keep for my personal use ( apart from relying on the Gas Station ones)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:25:53.387" Title="Tyre Pressure Checks for My Car" Tags="|tires|gauges|pressure|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-10-10T09:05:44.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually checking your tire pressure should usually be a &lt;strong&gt;monthly maintenance item&lt;/strong&gt;. If you make a habit of it, checking other items at the same time is a good idea as well, such as your coolant and oil levels (though, checking your oil a little more often is a good thing, say weekly). Something you can do is get used to where your tires sit (the &quot;squish&quot; if you will) normally. You can do a quick visual check every time you get in your car. If a tire looks as though it's low, it might be. Then you might do a check which isn't part of your monthly maintenance check. This should also alleviate any fears about running with a flat tire. Checking your tires every time you travel is &lt;strong&gt;OVERKILL&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need is the tire pressure checker ... something which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXq8T.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't have to be anything expensive. You can leave it in your glove box (or whatever it's called across the pond ;-) and should only cost you a few Pounds at most (I would expect it to be in the £4-10 range). Something like this will last you for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T09:05:44.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-10-10T09:10:29.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the usual advice is to check them as part of your 'weekly' checks (the ones that hardly anyone actually does every week, or even month!), along with the lights, tyre tread etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly wouldn't bother for a 20 mile trip, unless I had a known slow puncture that I was monitoring. I usually just check them whenever I remember to do so - although I know someone who checks each time they fill up with fuel, on the basis that it was a good habit to get into, and works out (for them) to be roughly weekly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T09:10:29.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2014-10-10T09:45:13.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car typically consumes about 3 liters per service interval (10000 km). My car now has 330000 on the odometer. You didn't indicate which type of engine: diesel or petrol. Also it is important to know whether the engine is turbocharged. To begin, you must figure out normal oil consumption for your specific engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some info from Volvo VADIS for its 2.5L B5254T engine with low pressure turbo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Normal oil consumption&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Running-in period&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil consumption can be as much as 1 liter per 1,000 km during a running-in period of approx. 5,000 km if the engine is new or replaced (replacement of piston ring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Driving between 5,000 and 150,000 km&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal driving: up to 0.25 liters per 1,000 km is considered normal oil consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving at high speed/with heavy trailer: up to 0.40 liters per 1,000 km is considered normal oil consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain/alpine driving: up to 0.50 liters per 1,000 km is considered normal oil consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above stated values for oil consumption can be used as guidelines if there is a suspicion that oil consumption is abnormally high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So during the first 150,000 km the oil consumption can be as 0.25 - 0.55 liters per 1,000 km under all conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the exact oil consumption a test drive of at least 1,000 km must be performed under controlled conditions. The oil must be weighed before and after the test drive. This way the exact oil consumption can be calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General causes of high oil consumption&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again from VADIS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Overfilling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil has been filled above the recommended maximum level, oil is forced up against the cylinder walls and is ejected through the crankcase ventilation. The oil level must not be filled above the maximum mark on the dip stick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Oil Grade&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a non Volvo recommended oil grade can cause increased oil consumption. The oil contains a larger amount of volatile molecules if the oil is too thin. Thin oil has difficulty in maintaining a comprehensive oil film on the cylinder walls at higher temperatures. This results in increased engine wear and increased oil consumption&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hard Driving&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long and continuous driving at high engine speed (RPM) causes high engine temperature. The oil thins and consumption increases. Hard cornering at high engine speed (RPM) causes the oil to be forced against the side of the cylinder block and against the cylinder walls, resulting in increased oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mountain Driving&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numerous and long periods of regular engine braking also causes high engine temperature. More oil is sucked into the cylinders due to an increased negative pressure in the intake pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Idling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving the car in urban traffic conditions, where the engine may be running for long periods but only covering short distances, does not necessarily increase oil consumption but the ratio of oil consumption to distance travelled may be misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Climate&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hot climates, the engine is required to work harder at a higher temperature. This increases oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T09:49:14.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12677" CreationDate="2014-10-10T10:28:05.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the most likely cause for this is, as you guessed, a head gasket leak, allowing oil to leak through to the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This often happens not long before complete failure of the head gasket and potentially major damage to the engine, so get it to a garage now for a new gasket, radiator flush, check on rad pump etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T10:28:05.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-10-10T13:36:45.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I maybe know a better way for you. I saw it at some customer tyre and was very impressed. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVpni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TYRE VALVE CAPS WITH PRESSURE INDICATOR :D &#xA;They exist for different pressure ranges. So everything you need to do, just go around your car sometimes and look that they are green. If they are yellow or red, you lost some pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T13:36:45.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12701" CreationDate="2014-10-10T16:16:06.187" Score="11" ViewCount="67365" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I went to shop for engine oil, I found many types as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5W-30 &lt;strong&gt;A5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5W-30 &lt;strong&gt;A1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5W-20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAE&lt;/strong&gt; 5W-30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10W-30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I see other information such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fully Synthetic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi Synthetic Oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic Blend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just subset of what I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how can I choose for my car? Does it make any difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7188" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T01:05:24.577" Title="How to understand different engine oils?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1556" CreationDate="2014-10-10T19:17:05.700" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chose to follow the manufactures recommended maintenance scheduled which only requires oil/filter change, air filter and cabin filter change. Dealer quoted 700 for 30K inspection and  90/100 dollars for filter changes. DIY cost for filters was $28 and 30 minutes of my time. Was always told by my Father, who was owner/operator of an independent garage for 40 years, &quot;if it isn't broke, don't fix it&quot;. I presently follow the Mfg. maint. schedule and am driving a 25 year old vehicle with 200k miles. Runs good and uses no oil. In the last 15 years it has had less than $600 in maint. cost which includes replacing timing belt and external belts. Still has original spark plugs and starts every time I turn the key. Anyone replacing plugs at 30K miles on todays cars is wasting money unless there is an obvious problem. Just my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7192" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T19:17:05.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12688" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:02:52.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will find many companies market oil for car engines, and they all vie with other saying that thier product is one you should buy. The manufacturer of the vehicle is the advice you should accept. Thier testing of thier vehicles will be the best bet. In a broader sense, engine oils can be &lt;em&gt;'roughly'&lt;/em&gt; put into three general catagories. 1. Normal lightly stressed engines-10w 40 semi-synthetic for regions with temperate climates. 2. Hybrid Vehicles-these engines stop and start while the vehicle is travelling and need a very swift circulation of the oil-0w 20 or 5w 30 Fully Synthetic. 3. Diesel vehicles with DPF's- Low ash-low sulphur. You could say a fourth one of LongLife oils-Fully Synthetics. Check your manufacturers recommendation and take it seriously, for your region of the world, climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:02:52.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:18:00.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you rely on the TPMS on your vehicle, find out if it &lt;strong&gt;direct&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;indirect&lt;/strong&gt;. If you have an indirect system be aware that the tyre has to deflate by a great deal before it registers with the signal light using the ABS wheel sensors. The direct system is much better as the tyre will have a sensor inside of which transmits its pressure to a reciever in the TPMS system and signals the light after losing a much lesser amount of pressure. Bear also in mind that tyres are destroyed from the inside to the outside when 'runflat'. This means that a tyre shredding internal is not visible from the outside. Any case of 'runflat' must have the tyre demounted and examined internally. On older cars, pre-2012 in the UK, TPMS is not mandatory, so a pressure check of once a month is about right, but if the tyre has been run under inflated, have it demounted and have it checked/repaired/or replaced as a matter of urgency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:18:00.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12679" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:23:13.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicles engine map will be the differance. If you are using a throttle body spec for a differant set up then it is bound to be wrong. The TPS may also vary on model to model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:23:13.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:30:05.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil filter housing has a 'nut' affair to drain the oil filter. This tool allows you to drain the oil filter only, can be messy, before draining the rest of the oil through the sump plug in the usual way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:30:05.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12697" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:42:58.167" Score="11" ViewCount="60640" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between a wet motorcycle clutch and a dry motorcycle clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, what are the differences in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;applications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reliability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maintenance/repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7193" LastEditorUserId="7193" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T21:42:22.737" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T06:28:04.070" Title="What are the differences between a wet motorcycle clutch and a dry motorcycle clutch?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12676" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:43:13.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look on the www.luk.co.uk for all the information you want. Dual Mass Flywheels are usually fitted to diesel vehicles. They reduce torsional vibrations through the transmission, promoting longer gearbox life. The lack of vibrations contribute to greater driver comfort and so less stress. They also play a part in improved emissions contol. People who decry the DMF usually do so the basis of cost and do not really appreciate the advance in the technology of todays transmissions. When you think about it, the traditional clutch driven plate with its torsional springs is a fore-runner of the DMF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:43:13.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12667" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:54:39.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Polo has a plastic impeller on its water pump spindle which can and does break off causing a loss of water flow and overheating. The thermostat has a pin location locating it in housing. These too can break. The fan coming on -as soon as you start up- means the coolant sensor on the engine and the one on the bottom of the radiator are, one or both, are faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:54:39.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12694" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:55:17.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled the following information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://motorcycleinfo.org/2009/12/wet-clutch-dry-clutch/&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unless you are a professional motorcycle mechanic, you normally can not see whether a motorcycle has a wet or dry clutch just by looking at the bike. But if you know your Italian motorcycles, you probably have a pretty good idea which ones do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A wet clutch is called wet because it is actually wet with engine oil.  The engine oil provides cooling as well as lubrication between the clutch cage and mating parts.  Generally, a wet clutch will have a longer life and will take more abuse from the rider.  For a beginning rider practicing to get a motorcycle license, a motorcycle that has a wet clutch would be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Motorcycle engine oil required for most wet clutch type motorcycles normally is more advanced than standard engine oil.  The oil is typically formulated so it will last longer (retain it’s viscosity) and perform better with a wet clutch, since the wet clutch also adds to the heat and shear that oil has to fight against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A dry clutch does not live in an oil bath, and is simply dry.  Since a wet clutch generally lives longer, then why would anyone want a motorcycle that has a dry clutch?  One advantage is that a dry clutch does not contaminate the engine oil with the particles that come from normal clutch wear and tear.  If you remove the cover from a dry clutch, you will find dust.  In a wet clutch design, that dust would essentially get worked into the engine oil and collected by the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A dry clutch does not contribute to oil breakdown, so you don’t normally need to buy the fancier, and typically much more expensive, type of motorcycle engine oil.   These types of specialized motorcycle oils normally cost roughly 3X the amount of normal oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since it is not spun through the engine oil, another advantage of a dry clutch is that it causes less drag on the engine and therefore robs less power than a wet clutch does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Italian motorcycles, such as Ducati and Moto Guzzi, have had a long history of having dry clutches.  BMW has used dry clutches as well.  By listening carefully, sometimes you can actually hear if a motorcycle has a dry clutch because a dry clutch often will rattle a little as long as the clutch  lever is held in while the engine is running.  This does not necessarily mean that there is anything wrong with the clutch at all, and in fact, this is like music to some motorcycle racing and sport bike enthusiasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:55:17.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12700" CreationDate="2014-10-10T21:41:18.190" Score="5" ViewCount="3710" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common modification I've seen on motorcycles with a dry clutch is to replace the closed clutch cover with an open one.  Besides the visual and auditory differences, will I notice anything else (better performance, reliability, etc.)?  Will there be any drawbacks to using an open clutch cover? For example, how much will I have to worry about water and small debris?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7193" LastEditorUserId="7193" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T22:12:50.017" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:12:50.017" Title="Using an open vs closed clutch cover on a motorcycle with a dry clutch" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12699" CreationDate="2014-10-11T12:23:23.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading through some of the Ducati forums has lead me to believe the selection between an open and closed clutch cover on these bikes is mostly for aesthetics. There is some consideration for cooling, but nothing which is earth shattering. So here is a list of pros and cons which I have compiled on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Open vs Closed Clutch Covers -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PROS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetics - stylizing availability is unlimited&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slight cooling advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An open aftermarket cover can be much stronger than the stock flimsy one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound emanations from the clutch are more noticeable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CONS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch is more exposed to damage if the bike is dumped in an accident&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can possibly catch small road debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Slight&lt;/em&gt; possibility of clutch dust getting on the bike and rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound emanations from the clutch are more noticeable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rain may cause slight slippage from the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice about the noise factor, the same exact statement is used as a Pro and a Con. That's because while it's a factor, it all depends on the rider's preference. For the most part it's about styling and what the owner wants. There isn't that much of a performance difference to really worry about it, but I guess if you want every last ounce of performance from a bike, you may want to think about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T12:23:23.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12688" CreationDate="2014-10-11T15:52:17.300" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know what to use for your car, follow what your vehicle manufacturer has stated. If you would like to better understand what all the gobble-de-gook means, continue reading ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally there was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;crude oil&lt;/a&gt;. Black gold. Texas Tea. As crude oil, it is fairly much useless. It's the distillates which make up the usable parts. Crude oil is refined down to create lubricants and fuels through many different methods. This mainly happens by heating it and breaking it down into its usable components. Chemical engineers then take the oil and make it better. They will throw in additives to help it work better, to clean, and other such things we require of it. This type of oil is called regular oil or even &amp;quot;dino oil&amp;quot; (considering oil is considered to have originated from decomposing plants and animals which originated during the time of &lt;em&gt;dino&lt;/em&gt;saurs). When you look at a dino oil, it is not very consistent. When you consider an oil grade for dino oils, think of it as an &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt;. I was once given this visualization of dino oil molecules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.oOoo..oOOoOo...o.o.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Synthetic oil&lt;/a&gt; is man made. Chemical engineers take base oil stock and chemically modify it to create a lubricant which is more stable than dino oil, where operating extremes (such as high performance autos or jet engines) occur. This oil is tailored to have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties. There are many different types of synthetic oils, made many different ways. In line with the above visualization of dino oil molecules, synthetic oil molecules might look more like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ooooooooooooooooo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, there are three different categories of oil products:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Organic oil&lt;/strong&gt; - Dino oil. Regular oil. Crude oil which has been boiled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Semi-Synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; - A mix of dino oil and synthetic oil. Can also be called &lt;em&gt;synthetic blend&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;semi-synthetic&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; - Pure man-made oil (no dino oil added).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Standards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several standards in the world which pertain to oil. Some of those standards are from the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sae.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acea.be/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;European Automobile Manufacturers Association (ACEA)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.api.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Petroleum Institute (API)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: These are some main ones, but there are others). To better understand what each organization's, let's break some things down for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each organization has a different indicator for their oil specification. Here are the indicators for each of the three major organizations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE - 0W, 5W, 10W, 20W, 25w, 8**, 12**, 16**, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 (NOTE: ** New SAE Standard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ACEA - A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C1, C2, C3, C4, E4, E6, E7, D9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;API - GF-6B, GF-6A, SP, SN, SM, SL, SJ, SH, SG, SF, SE, SD, SC, SB, SA, CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF, CF-4, CE, CD-II, CD, CC, CB, CA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called the API Donut. It has two of these three service ratings listed in them and also tells whether an oil is considered &amp;quot;Energy Conserving&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXduY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;API Dount&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE1:&lt;/strong&gt; These standards can best be understood by reading through the standards body write-ups, but I will try to give a brief overview of what is important, as well as some charts which will describe them a little better than I can with a wall-of-words in this article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE2:&lt;/strong&gt; This write-up is for motor oil. Do not confuse this with how gear or other oil is labeled, because it has a completely different standard, though some of the markings appear in the same configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with SAE because it is probably the most confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of SAE specifications have to do with the viscosity of an oil. The viscosity meaning, &lt;em&gt;what is the specific flow rate, at a specific temperature, through a specific sized orifice&lt;/em&gt;. There are two basic types of oil concerned when you are looking at the SAE specification. There is &lt;em&gt;straight weight&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;multi-viscosity&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Straight weight&lt;/strong&gt; oil does not contain modifiers which affect how the oil flows. It is denoted by a single number such as 30. A &lt;strong&gt;multi-viscosity&lt;/strong&gt; will have different flow properties depending on the temperature. It is denoted by a hyphenated number, such as 0W-20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE3:&lt;/strong&gt; Do not think of oil viscosity numbers in terms of &lt;em&gt;thicker&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;thinner&lt;/em&gt; ... Flow rate is modified by means other than the how thick or thin it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number of the two has a &amp;quot;W&amp;quot; following it. This indicates the &lt;em&gt;Winter&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cold start viscosity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of the oil (though some mistakenly think the &amp;quot;W&amp;quot; stands for &amp;quot;weight&amp;quot;). Originally this denoted the viscosity of oil when it is measured at 0degF. In 1999 this was changed due to an outbreak of engine failure due to oil jelling at low temperatures (see chart below for newer standard). The second number denotes the viscosity of the oil when measured at 100degC (or 212degF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart indicates some numbers which may or may not be useful to the average Joe, but are the specification for each of the numbers I've listed (other than 8**, 12**, &amp;amp; 16** which are newer SAE oil specifications):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIfeL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Viscosity Grade Chart from Speednik.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the for each of the Winter designations, it is mainly concerned with &lt;em&gt;how well the oil flows at a given minimum temperature&lt;/em&gt;. Whereas the straight number has concerns on both the minimum and maximum flow rate of an oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE4:&lt;/strong&gt; 100degC (or 212degF) is used as a main reference point due to this being the approximate running temperature of an engine. It is an easy reference point to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE5:&lt;/strong&gt; Please understand that a 5W-30 and 10W-30 are still 30 grade oils and will still perform the same at a higher given temperature. The difference is their flow rate is different at the lower temperatures. This is achieved through molecular chains which open (become straight) and close (bunch up) at different temperatures. This opening and closing effect changes how the oil flows and thus effectively changes the viscosity without changing the oil grade itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; chart of which oil should be used in which temperature range (though it is my personal belief you should follow what your vehicle manufacturer's recommendation so as to not void warranties, etc):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MPb69.png&quot; alt=&quot;Viscosity chart pulled from contiteh.ru website&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicle manufacturers will give you a variance chart in your owner's manual which tells you which weight to use if you sustain higher or lower temperatures during the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ACEA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ACEA is a little easier to figure out than SAE. Their standards are broken down into three main areas: A/B; C; and E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A/B&lt;/strong&gt;: Gasoline (petrol) and Diesel Engine Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;: Catalyst Compatibility Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;: Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the write-up I pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which explains each of the individual specifications. Each of the following is a current specification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A1/B1&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3/B3&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3/B4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A5/B5&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car &amp;amp; light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C1&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low friction, low viscosity, low SAPS oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9 mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils have the lowest SAPS limits and are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C2&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines designed to be capable of using low friction, low viscosity oils with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 2.9mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C3&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines, with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life. Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C5&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, for further improved Fuel Economy, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car &amp;amp; Light Duty Van Gasoline &amp;amp; DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable and OEM-approved for use of Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.6 mPa.s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E4&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for some EGR engines and some engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E6&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing excellent control of piston cleanliness, wear, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under very severe conditions, e.g. significantly extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for EGR engines, with or without particulate filters, and for engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E6 quality is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E7&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Driver Manuals and/or Dealers shall be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E9&lt;/strong&gt; Stable, stay-in-grade oil providing effective control with respect to piston cleanliness and bore polishing. It further provides excellent wear control, soot handling and lubricant stability. It is recommended for highly rated diesel engines meeting Euro I, Euro II, Euro III, Euro IV and Euro V emission requirements and running under severe conditions, e.g. extended oil drain intervals according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is suitable for engines with or without particulate filters, and for most EGR engines and for most engines fitted with SCR NOx reduction systems. E9 is strongly recommended for engines fitted with particulate filters and is designed for use in combination with low sulphur diesel fuel. However, recommendations may differ between engine manufacturers so Drivers Manuals and/or Dealers should be consulted if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;API&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The API has two distinct categories. Those for gasoline engines (&lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; designation) and for diesel engines (&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt; designation). I am only going to give you the write-ups for those specifications which are current. You can look where &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I pulled them from&lt;/a&gt; to get the rest if you are so inclined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GF-6A&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced in May 2020&lt;/em&gt; designed to provide protection against low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), timing chain wear protection, improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, more stringent sludge and varnish control, improved fuel economy, enhanced emission control system protection and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GF-6B&lt;/strong&gt; *Introduced in May 2020, applies only to oils having an SAE viscosity grade of 0W-16, designed to provide protection against low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), timing chain wear protection, high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, stringent sludge and varnish control, improved fuel economy, emission control system protection and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SP&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced in May 2020&lt;/em&gt; designed to provide protection against low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), timing chain wear protection, improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, and more stringent sludge and varnish control. API SP with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-6A by combining API SP performance with improved fuel economy, emission control system protection and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SN&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced in October 2010&lt;/em&gt; Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conservingmatches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control systemcompatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SM&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Introduced on 30 November 2004&lt;/em&gt; Category SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and SL earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SL&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;2001 Gasoline Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; Category SL was adopted to describe engine oils for use in 2001. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, sports utility vehicles, vans and light trucks operating under vehicle manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SL requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SJ&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;1997 Gasoline Engine&lt;/em&gt; Service Category SJ was adopted in 1996 to describe engine oil first mandated in 1997. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, vans, and light trucks operating under manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SH requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SH and earlier categories are recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FA-4&lt;/strong&gt; API Service Category FA-4 describes certain XW-30 oils specifically formulated for use in select high-speed four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2017 model year on-highway greenhouse gas (GHG) emission standards. These oils are formulated for use in on-highway applications with diesel fuel sulfur content up to 15 ppm (0.0015% by weight). Refer to individual engine manufacturer recommendations regarding compatibility with API FA-4 oils. These oils are blended to a high temperature high shear (HTHS) viscosity range of 2.9cP–3.2cP to assist in reducing GHG emissions. These oils are especially effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced aftertreatment systems are used. API FA-4 oils are designed to provide enhanced protection against oil oxidation, viscosity loss due to shear, and oil aeration as well as protection against catalyst poisoning, particulate filter blocking, engine wear, piston deposits, degradation of low- and high-temperature properties, and soot-related viscosity increase. API FA-4 oils are not interchangeable or backward compatible with API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, and CH-4 oils. Refer to engine manufacturer recommendations to determine if API FA-4 oils are suitable for use. API FA-4 oils are not recommended for use with fuels having greater than 15 ppm sulfur. For fuels with sulfur content greater than 15 ppm, refer to engine manufacturer recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CK-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Current - 2017&lt;/em&gt; API Service Category CK-4 describes oils for use in high-speed four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2017 model year on-highway and Tier 4 non-road exhaust emission standards as well as for previous model year diesel engines. These oils are formulated for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 500 ppm (0.05% by weight). However, the use of these oils with greater than 15 ppm (0.0015% by weight) sulfur fuel may impact exhaust aftertreatment system durability and/or oil drain interval. These oils are especially effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced aftertreatment systems are used. API CK-4 oils are designed to provide enhanced protection against oil oxidation, viscosity loss due to shear, and oil aeration as well as protection against catalyst poisoning, particulate filter blocking, engine wear, piston deposits, degradation of low- and high-temperature properties, and soot-related viscosity increase. API CK-4 oils exceed the performance criteria of API CJ-4, CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, and CH-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories. When using CK-4 oil with higher than 15 ppm sulfur fuel, consult the engine manufacturer for service interval recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CJ-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Current - 2006&lt;/em&gt; Introduced in 2006 for high-speed four-stroke engines. Designed to meet 2007 on-highway exhaust emission standards. CJ-4 oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulphur content up to 500ppm (0.05% by weight). However, use of these oils with greater than 15ppm sulfur fuel may impact exhaust after treatment system durability and/or oil drain intervals. CJ-4 oils are effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced after treatment systems are used. CJ-4 oils exceed the performance criteria of CF-4, C-4, AH-4 and C-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CI-4 Plus&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Current - 2004&lt;/em&gt; Used in conjunction with API C-4, the &amp;quot; CI-4 PLUS&amp;quot; designation identifies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related viscosity increase and viscosity loss due to shear in diesel engines. Like Energy Conserving, CI-4 PLUS appears in the lower portion of the API Service Symbol &amp;quot;Donut.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CI-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; The CI-4 performance requirements describe oils for use in those high speed, four-stroke cycle diesel engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards, to be implemented October 2002. These oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.05% by weight. These oils are especially effective at sustaining engine durability where Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and other exhaust emission componentry may be used. Optimum protection is provided for control of corrosive wear tendencies, low and high temperature stability, soot handling properties, piston deposit control, valve train wear, oxidative thickening, foaming and viscosity loss due to shear. CI-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CH-4&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Severe-Duty Diesel Engine Service&lt;/em&gt; This service oils are suitable for high speed, four-stroke diesel engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards and are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. CH-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CF-4 and API CG-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE6&lt;/strong&gt;: A lot of this data you will never need to know. I have placed it here for future reference. I can see this being updated over time as new standards are brought to bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T10:46:17.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2014-10-11T21:25:52.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the green coolant is dexcool compatible, then there's no pressing need to switch.  Most (but not all) off the shelf pre-mixed coolants are compatible with just about everything and can even be used for topping off systems full of other coolants.  However, topping off a red/orange system with green will tend to make for funny brown looking coolant that could potentially mask other problems (hard to check for coolant contamination if it's all nasty looking already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T21:25:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12705" CreationDate="2014-10-11T23:32:52.247" Score="7" ViewCount="109150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Civic and today out of the blue it wouldn't start. I hear a click sound when I turn the key to start, but nothing else. The car lights still work, and they dim slightly when attempting to start the car (which is normal for this car). Everything electrical inside the car also works fine, the engine just isn't cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is three years old, but it's still fully charged. I put a load on it and it's holding a charge under load just fine. Also, the battery terminals and connecting wires are very clean with no traces of rust or corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 5-speed and it still starts great on a hill, or with a push, so the engine isn't seized up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that maybe the starter is bad, but I'm not entirely sure. Are there any other tests I can run before just replacing the starter?&#xA;I'm on a budget so I'm just trying to avoid replacing the starter and then finding out that wasn't the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:22.123" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T17:13:06.153" Title="Honda Civic Clicks but won't Crank" Tags="|honda|civic|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12805" CreationDate="2014-10-12T00:02:15.773" Score="6" ViewCount="45977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with my pickup;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a 1991 Chevy S10, 2WD P/U, 2.5L I4 engine with around 185,000 miles on it. It's the Iron Duke engine, a throttle body injection motor.&#xA;I'm not a mechanic, please forgive me if I use the wrong terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the past two weeks, it has started to act a bit silly and I don't know what's all wrong with it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It started as little hiccups while driving, not like a surge, but I'd be cruising along and it'd hiccup- a sort of feeling like it didn't fire on a cylinder. One note, I do recall when it started happening that I would smell gasoline for a few minutes after starting it while cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it got worse and worse with those hiccups. After that it started having a number of other issues, such as power loss, really bad acceleration, stalling, and a really rough idle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Normally it idles around 950-1050 RPM, what has been happening is that it would start, idle high, around 1500, then drop to normal, and then start sputtering and RPMs would fluctuate anywhere between 750 on the high side, all the way to 0, stalling the motor. If I pressed the accelerator, it would either not affect the RPMs, or it would start to die out. Other times the motor would crank but not start at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I took it to an autoparts shop the other day to get some stuff to work on it, when I came out of the shop, it wouldn't start, and I popped open the hood to take a look. I took off the air filter cover, and pulled the throttle a little bit, got some fire/backfire out of the carb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had problems where when I would be stopped, put the truck in first gear and try to accelerate, the engine would not want to move, and it would start rocking the entire truck back and forth. and continue all the way up to third gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've done so far:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Changed all spark plugs, spark plug wires&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- changed the distributor cap and rotor  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a fuel filter which I'm going to install tomorrow. Not done that yet because all the times I've worked on it, the exhaust has been hot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else could be going on or wrong with my motor to cause this kind of thing to be happening. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: Oct 12, 2014 13:40 PDT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, today we replaced the fuel filter, it appeared I had water in there, so we put the new one in and put some HEET water remover in it. The truck seems to be operating a bit better now.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But it started to stall and bog down again, I went to AutoZone and purchased a new MAP sensor and made a vacuum tube for it; I haven't noticed any bad starts or stalling since I've changed it, but it is still having small amounts of surging below around 2k RPM, and still sort of hiccuping when I pull the throttle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastEditorUserId="4825" LastEditDate="2014-10-12T20:43:44.973" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T18:48:20.837" Title="1991 Chevrolet S10 - Sputtering, hiccups, stalling, bad acceleration" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|truck|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12703" CreationDate="2014-10-12T00:46:24.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worth checking for good earth from body/battery to engine, check for good  positive connection on starter - check for corrosion etc. Worth tapping the motor body to possibly force worn brush to make contact - don't beat the hell out of it - this will prove starter motor issue beyond repute if it does start on key. But it's most likely the motor needs recon/replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7195" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T00:46:24.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2014-10-12T02:17:11.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem, fixed it, details below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota Sienna 2001 XLE. &lt;strong&gt;Issue:&lt;/strong&gt; Key doesn't turn. &lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; Some of the tumblers in Toyota's ignition lock cylinder are split. These split tumblers don't go down when they should. For vid description, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxxwk9l9X9g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxxwk9l9X9g&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible fix:&lt;/strong&gt; Buy a new cylinder. However, if you have chip'd keys (immobilizer feature), this can be really expensive. Also, your door locks won't match otherwise. I've read you need to do this at a dealer and it can cost $500 (I didn't verify this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt; Remove the split tumblers from the cylinder. The cylinder is slightly less secure, but since you still need the correct chip'd key anyway, that's hardly an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I did:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect negative battery cable and shield it. This is so you don't accidentally deploy the airbag while messing around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove bottom plastic panel. This was one screw on the bottom right. The rest of the plastic has clips and it just pulls out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove metal metal that is under the plastic panel. This is two screws that are identical to the one from the plastic panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove black plastic circle thing from around ignition hole. This just snaps out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unclip white block connectors for the wires from the ignition system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew and remove the black circle with the green light from the chip reader that sits on top of the ignition cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Insert key and turn to ACC position. Obviously turning the key is the whole problem, but you need to do this. If you can't get it to turn one last time you can't continue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the cylinder is a hole with a pin. Push this pin in and pull your key at the same time (you can only push the pin if the key is at the ACC position). The cylinder will side out. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the metal face plate from the cylinder. There is a pin and two rivets. Bend the faceplate with a screw driver where the pin is. Drill the rivets out. The faceplate will now come off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide the tumbler cylinder out of the metal housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert your key and observe the offending split tumblers that do not retract. Remove these with pliers. Be sure to take out the springs that sat under those tumblers so they don't fall in one day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put everything back together in reverse order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it! No new parts needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7194" LastEditorUserId="7194" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T17:12:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:12:37.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15511" CreationDate="2014-10-12T04:34:00.783" Score="2" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how these cuts happened (picture below), but on taking it to the official service station, the mechanic said he'd try fixing it with black insulation tape.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I didn't think insulation tape was a good idea. My brother suggests putting a seat cover over it. Are these the only ways to fix it? Anything that is easier and does not make it look bad?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PbA7k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T01:34:10.747" Title="Fixing cuts on the seat" Tags="|seat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-19T02:02:32.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-12T16:37:40.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 hyundai tiburon. recently the battery light went on when I was driving. the next day my girlfriend left the headlights on and the battery died. We tried to jump it with no luck. I got the battery charged and tested and it tested ok. I put it back in the car and still not luck. The interior lights come one and it dings when the key is in the ignition and the door is open. the hazard lights work, but the headlights, dash lights, and radio do not. There is no noise when I turn the key and I noticed the cables were a little loose. Could a loose connection be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7201" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T13:50:58.457" Title="98 Tiburon won't start and doesn't make a noise" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2014-10-12T17:55:38.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery is fine, then you may have a fuse issue, which headlights not turning on at all would be a strong indication of (those are incandescent/halogen types, so they put out some kind of light down to scary low voltage and amperage). Check fuses for the components not working and replace any blown ones with the proper rated fuse, which is usually indicated on the fuse box, if not in the owner's manual or service manual. Never replace fuses based only on the ratings of the blown fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T17:55:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-12T18:04:41.007" Score="2" ViewCount="7126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about this kind of stuff.  But, when I started my weedeater, and put it on no choke (or even half choke), and gave it full throttle, it slowly died unless I let up on the throttle.  I understand I should use 100% gas, but I Have E10 in this tank.  I took the muffler off, and now it doesn't have this problem.  Is there such a thing as a clogged muffler?  How do I clean my muffler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7203" LastEditorUserId="7203" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T13:16:33.890" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T16:45:00.400" Title="Weedeater doesn't run very well w/ muffler on" Tags="|engine|muffler|small-engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12711" CreationDate="2014-10-12T18:18:23.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I can't provide the technical details as to why, I would say your weedeater is performing as expected. With full choke and full throttle, you are flooding it when the muffler is attached. I would expect that you would smell or even see fuel coming out of the exhaust. However, with the muffler removed, the backpressure is so low that the engine can blow out more exhaust, so it continues to run, albeit with a different power curve (and lots more noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were experiencing power issues that are preventing the weedeater from performing its duties with the muffler on and choke off, then I would say there may be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the sake of reducing noise pollution, I would encourage you to run your weedeater with the muffler installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T18:18:23.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12714" CreationDate="2014-10-12T20:08:39.290" Score="3" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is an odd issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2005 Kia Spectra 109,000 miles (well maintained car) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My speedometer is choppy. The problem comes and goes right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am on the free way going 60 it might say 20 - 30mph it might say 0mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the problem starts the speedometer needle isn't smooth, it appears to be sticky or choppy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gotten it to stop doing this two ways. First turning off the car seems to fix the problem temporarily and also sometimes coming to a complete stop fixes the issue. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3633" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T22:09:54.387" Title="Speedometer is Chopy/Sticky" Tags="|kia|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12713" CreationDate="2014-10-12T22:09:54.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the electronic speed sensor in the transmission is malfunctioning. It should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sy7J1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulled from RockAuto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It suggests it is located at the top of the transmission, so should be fairly easy to get to. One plug, one bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T22:09:54.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12716" CreationDate="2014-10-12T22:27:22.840" Score="4" ViewCount="6734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Craftsman Snowblower, model 247.889702. Unit is a few years old, and I can't get it to start. Unfortunately, I left gas in it one winter and over the summer and of course when I tried to get it to start last winter it wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a definite novice when it comes to troubleshooting issues like this, but I took a look at it this afternoon after reading some on the net. I found that the carburetor was all gummed up. I got some carb cleaner and cleaned the carb bowl and the carb itself out pretty good, drained as much of the old gas from it as I could and added new gas. Still couldn't get it to start (even with the electric starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While trying to get it to start, I took the carb bowl off and tried hitting the primer. I noticed that while I heard an air sucking/swooshing noise, it didn't seem like any gas was coming through the carb. I was expecting a few drops to drip off the end of the tube. Is that normal? If not, is it possible that the fuel line is clogged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It turns out the fuel line was clogged. I pulled it and it was completely full of a black tarry gunk that completely blocked the flow. I was able to clear it out but it was so bad I just ordered a new one and a new fitting for the fuel tank. Waiting for them to come in now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7204" LastEditorUserId="7204" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T14:30:22.033" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T19:44:01.913" Title="Carburetor question, attempting snowblower repair" Tags="|starting|carburetor|small-engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12715" CreationDate="2014-10-13T02:28:31.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to get a replacement carb. Some have had good luck rebuilding them, but for the trouble of it, it's just a lot easier to buy a new one off the internet. Personally, I can never get them to run right after a rebuild. You can usually get one for less than $50 depending on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you put a new one on, ensure you have a cut off valve on your gas line, then when you are done with it for the year, cut the fuel off and then run it until it dies for lack of gas. This will keep your carb clean. Also, use a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil. It will keep the gas fresh until you need it next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T02:28:31.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2014-10-13T10:47:23.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why a car would not even attempt to start. A few to try first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flat battery - you have tested this, so we can assume it's ok.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loose/poor connection to the battery - this would result in no power to anything, so I'm guessing this isn't the problem as you have some power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Immobiliser - If you have one fitted, this might have got upset when the power was lost, and isn't de-immobilising to allow you to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loose/poor connection elsewhere in the charging/starting system - this would be more likely to result in intermittent starting rather than none at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check all the fuses as Paul suggests, although I don't think these will be causing your main problem. If the car has an immobiliser, that might need resetting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T10:47:23.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12711" CreationDate="2014-10-13T13:18:26.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I did was I cleaned out the muffler with brake cleaner then blew it out with my air compressor (didn't really do much, I didn't see much carbon buildup come out).  I put the muffler back on, dumped out the E10 gas that I had in the tank, replaced it with 100% gas, and now it works.  Not sure which of these steps ultimately fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7203" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T13:18:26.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T14:05:46.057" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 2.7CDI gives me a hard start when I am starting it the first time in the morning after parking it over night it but works and starts perfectly thereafter till the next morning. The fault does not show on the dash board or on diagnostic machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7209" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T16:19:36.443" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:19:36.443" Title="Mercedes 2.7CDI C Class 2004 Hard Starts" Tags="|fuel-system|starting|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2014-10-13T14:58:27.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first guess on this would be Glow/Heater plugs or the circuit wiring or relay, but since you say it's not showing on diagnostic checks it would lead me to believe it's a mechanical failure. Have you had a compression test done? That would be my next move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7195" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T14:58:27.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12723" CreationDate="2014-10-13T15:24:50.753" Score="7" ViewCount="40064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Hyundai Elantra GT SEL 2014 which is currently equipped with stock Hankooks 205/55r16.  I am looking to buy a set of winter tires and I was originally looking at 16&quot; tires but a friend suggested I get 15&quot; instead. From what I can see the manufacturer does not forbid it (should not void the warranty) and there seems to be people indeed doing it according to a quick Google search. Considering there is almost 200$ difference between the 16 and 15 for the set of tires I am considering to buy,  is there any major drawback ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an inexperienced, cautious driver. I will drive mostly in the city and may have to do highway from time to time. I'm told the roads are mostly icy (vs full of snow). I was considering Michelin Xi3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7210" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T02:38:09.230" Title="Is it safe to downsize from 205/55r16 to 195/65r15 for winter tires?" Tags="|tires|winter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12721" CreationDate="2014-10-13T15:52:15.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on whether or not it's a safe practice for your exact configuration.  However, downsizing to smaller diameter and width tires is a common practice for snow tires in general.  Not only is smaller cheaper, but it also works better in most Winter conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T15:52:15.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12721" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:16:42.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things you need to be aware of when doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you'll incur the cost of getting new rims (which I'm sure you already realize). This is actually pretty common when fitting snow tires, though. Having a second set of cheaper rims (steel is cheaper than alloy) you can change out yourself versus having to take them to the shop to get done is a large cost savings, not only in money, but time as well (do them at home at your convenience). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; When you take one set of tires off, ensure you mark them for placement on the vehicle. Tires should always rotate the same direction or wear will increase tremendously. If you just write on the tread area with some chalk the position of the tire when it comes off the car, you can put it right back where you got it without issue. (ie: DF=Driver's Front; DR=Right Rear; PF=Passenger's Front; PR=Passenger's Rear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you need to see whether your car can actually fit smaller rims. It is quite common for there to be interference between the brake rotor and the smaller rim. A side consideration when getting your new rims is that you need to ensure you have the correct offset. Not just any rims will do, they must stick out the correct (enough) distance or the new rim will interfere with body and brakes. There is a lot to put into consideration here. You will also need to make sure the size of the tire will fit on the rim (tire width and what it needs to go onto). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, when considering a snow tire, make sure the rolling distance or &quot;rotations per mile&quot; (RPM) is the same or nearly the same between the two tires. Having a huge difference between the two tires will cause your speedometer calibration to be off. It will also affect how the vehicle behaves (ie: a taller tire will require more torque to get a vehicle rolling and stopped; a shorter tire will cause worse gas mileage on the highway because the engine has to rev higher to achieve the same ground speed.) Most major online tire stores (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt;) have this or at least the diameter of the tire. You can compare the two and make a decision from that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, you shouldn't have an issue with running the smaller tire, especially considering the small amount of difference there is between the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:16:42.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:18:45.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a typical problem for when your glow plugs are wearing out, or not heating as they should. If they are not heating properly, but are still heating, you'll not get an error code. Getting them replaced would be the first thing I'd look at doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:18:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12726" CreationDate="2014-10-13T18:05:44.510" Score="4" ViewCount="4969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Mustang, 2000. I just got this car, ran the CARFAX on the VIN displayed in the panel, got an identical history to what the car showed, even identical mileage. Got myself insured with State Farm, and sign up for their In-Drive program. They plug a dongle into my OBD port, and when they see I'm a safe driver, they give me a discount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All goes well until I get an email: &quot;VIN number mismatch.&quot; The dongle is convinced that the VIN number it is assigned to is not the VIN number of the car. The dongle is (100% certainty) in the correct car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked with my insurer and double-checked my CARFAX and the VIN in the car door. They all match up: Green, 3.8L V6, 2000 Ford Mustang, Only owned in Texas. This matches what the dealership told me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the VIN number available through the OBD port is not the same VIN number as the car is registered to? How would I find out if that is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7211" LastEditorUserId="7211" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T18:19:02.277" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T15:13:31.790" Title="VIN Number Mismatch" Tags="|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12725" CreationDate="2014-10-13T18:41:39.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VIN is stored within the OBD-II system. This is what the dongle is reading. If the PCM was ever replaced, the VIN may not have been stored correctly in the new (to the car) PCM. Any shop which does aftermarket tunes can check and put the correct VIN back into it. Then your insurance fob will be reading without the mismatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T18:41:39.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T21:44:56.513" Score="3" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spun the rod bearing. I dropped the oil pan and found the affected rod. I disconnected the rod. If I can remove it and have the journal turned or replace it, it would be more work but less money than to replace the engine. I don't have access to a lift. I was thinking of disassembling the engine in the car to get to the block. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T23:18:49.337" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T23:18:49.337" Title="Can the crank be removed from a 1999 beetle without engine removal" Tags="|engine|vw|beetle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12728" CreationDate="2014-10-13T22:52:54.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could possibly get it out, but putting it back in would be nearly impossible. To do it correctly, you should put new bearings throughout (rods &amp;amp; mains). Putting new main bearings in requires checking clearances. You would not be able to do this by having the crank hang on the bearing caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you spun a bearing, the engine block should be thoroughly cleaned as well. When the bearing spun, metal from the journal side and from the rod side was strewn all over the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still not sure how you would disconnect the crank from the flywheel (or flex plate if an auto). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to think about is if you are unsure what caused the spun bearing in the first place, it could easily happen again. If it was over revving the engine, which caused a rod bolt to stretch, thus causing the spun bearing, that's one thing. If it was a lack of lubrication, that's another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have never tried this myself, this seems like about a 1:1,000,000 shot to make it happen and have the fix work for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T22:52:54.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11532" CreationDate="2014-10-14T02:01:46.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, most of the stuff he told you is bullshit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, he didn't install any software on the ECU; he just dumped the original firmware, identified where the values that control fuel injection are (amount of fuel, etc), changed them and installed that modified firmware; in the end he just modified a few digits in the original code, nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do what he told you he'd have to completely rewrite the code that handles OBD communications, which is specific to each ECU, proprietary (no source code at all, good luck reverse-engineering the assembly code that you got from that ECU) and extremely hard to do if doable at all (not to mention risks, imagine the danger if his buggy software suddenly crashes and your engine goes on full throttle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, feel free to connect your diagnostics adapter, no need to fear anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and if you want to reverse-engineer his map, just unsolder the engine ECU's ROM, poke at it using a hex editor, find where the actual &quot;map&quot; is and there you have his precious &quot;map&quot; (you may want to load it in a software like WinOLS); and no amount of software nor bullshit that he tells will change that (to protect against that you'd have to implement encryption in the ECU to decrypt its own data, which is probably impossible on such low-spec hardware, and even then, the key would still be there somewhere waiting to be found by some curious soul).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T02:01:46.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T07:38:12.580" Score="1" ViewCount="6259" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i'm thinking about buying a muffler for my 2001 seat ibiza 6K2. I came across a few good ones and after watching some video's about people installing them (mightycarmods for example) i'm really considering to buy one myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason i would want a muffler is to give my car a bit of a mean and deep sound to it. I was looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-IBIZA-LEON-ALTEA-PERFORMANCE-SPORTS-UNIVERSAL-EXHAUST-BACK-BOX-002-SEAT-/380442630468?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&amp;amp;fits=Car%20Make%3ASeat%7CModel%3AIbiza%7CCars%20Type%3A1.4&amp;amp;hash=item589425d944&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;THIS&lt;/a&gt; for example but the muffler doesnt have any measurments so how would i know if it fits? Also if the muffler does come with measurments how do i know if it fits? What part of my exhaust do i measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:33:40.567" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:04:15.260" Title="How to check if your muffler will fit your car" Tags="|muffler|seat-ibiza|seat-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12721" CreationDate="2014-10-14T10:41:01.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's actually a good idea. Just note that you can't fit 15&quot; tires to 16&quot; rims or vice versa, meaning you'd have to get a set of rims too. If you're not terribly image conscious, you may very well get your hands on a set of steel rims that look ugly, but will take your 15&quot; snow tires. Plastic trimmings for steel rims are cheap though, so there's that. You should be able to source a set of 15&quot; steel rims for less than $200. Just make absolutely sure that they will fit. They should have the correct number of holes (either 4 or five) as your car AND have the same PCD (which is a fancy way of saying they should be the same radius from the center of the rim) as your car's. And the rims should clear your brake calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T07:42:39.733" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T07:42:39.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:39:02.383" Score="1" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna with 85,000 miles. This past summer while driving on the highway the engine light went on and it started shaking violently. Pressing on the accelerator gave barely a response above 50 mph. I shifted down to about 2nd or third gear, which seemed to help a little, but still couldn't get it to go much faster than 50 or so. I dropped off the family, shutting the engine while doing so. Around ten minutes later I started it up to head to a mechanic and no sign of trouble. When I got there, my computer wouldn't let itself be read, and that was the end of that. Weird experience, but that's what happened.&#xA;Ever since then though I have been experiencing this weird side to side motion while accelerating between 40 and sixty mph. At 60 it is still there but not nearly as bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced a ball joint which was bad in the hopes that this would alleviate the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also replaced all four tires and had the properly balanced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still the problem persists. I've searched the web &amp;amp; it seems that the shaking is not so uncommon, with limited reports of possibly fixing it. However no one seems to have experienced the violent shaking and engine light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7217" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T23:51:22.640" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T23:51:22.640" Title="Why is my Toyota Sienna wobbling from side to side" Tags="|toyota|steering|shaking|sienna|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T06:07:18.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:41:42.967" Score="3" ViewCount="7012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the gas cap changed (told there was a vacuum issue) at inspection. It is very difficult to remove this new cap when I go to fill up. Now the car is experiencing episodes where it does not want to start (wants to turn over but it chugs, chokes). Once it's running, the car is fine, smooth, and with no acceleration issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had another try and take gas cap off this am and it came off very easily!!! Could this new gas cap be creating too much of a vacuum while its running for long periods and then preventing it from restarting after being off for a short period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it for about 25 minutes, pulled into a store to shop, came out about 30 minutes later and it would not start. Next morning, started fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Same scenario the second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7218" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T13:11:01.723" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T14:20:58.990" Title="Excessive vacuum making new fuel cap hard to remove" Tags="|starting|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T15:24:34.183" Score="4" ViewCount="63939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of slow driving with multiple stops on trails and farm roads and the seat belt alarm becomes very annoying.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I attempted the following steps to disable the beeping, but they didn't work. I couldn't find any other different instructions except for small variations of these.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any other ideas of how I could disable the seat belt alarm when the speed gets above 10 mph? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the &quot;On&quot; position. Do not crank the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the small knob on the instrument cluster to cycle between the trip odometer and the odometer reading. Press the knob until it displays &quot;ODO.&quot; Turn the ignition to the &quot;Off&quot; position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition back to the &quot;On&quot; position and hold the small knob for 10 to 15 seconds. After the time has passed, put on the seat belt (while holding the knob).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the trip odometer knob to finish. The instrument cluster will display &quot;B off.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T17:08:58.457" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T18:05:12.487" Title="How to disable the seat belt alarm on a 2011 Tacoma?" Tags="|toyota|truck|alarm|tacoma|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T17:18:13.877" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLS Sport edition with just under 80,000 miles on it. It does have a warranty on it via my financing company however it's a bit out of pocket for it so I'm hoping that with my handy skills that I may be able to fix this problem myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle, at random times, will start to sputter, jump, and then eventually as the RPMs go too low, die off. It doesn't do it in the mornings, it doesn't do it after a long trip. Just whenever it feels like it, where ever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's done it most prominently at intersections, but it's also done it in a parking lot after being parked for five minutes and starting back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen mention that it may be my fuel filter, fuel pump, inertia sensor switch, hoses, etc. but I'm just not sure where to start looking for this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gas treatment does seem to help, however that in itself may just be a placebo. I use recently SeaFoam, and more recently a 3000 mile fuel cleaning system that seems to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem to have the issue when the fuel tank goes low, however it doesn't do it all the time. Sometimes when it gets filled up it may do it, other times it wont, likewise when it's getting low. When the issue does arise where the vehicle starts to keel over, if it dies by itself, I get a &quot;Low Oil Pressure&quot; message. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we usually try our best to stop it beforehand to try to save the catalytic converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7220" LastEditorUserId="7220" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T14:04:10.457" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T16:16:20.573" Title="2005 Ford Explorer XLS Sport, Random Hesitations and Die Offs" Tags="|troubleshooting|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T18:30:54.560" Score="3" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an automatic 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL 2 days ago. I got it cheap knowing it would have problems, and that's why I'm here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put it in drive and slam on the gas the car just simply moves forward really slowly, and the engine won't go above 2,000 rpm. When I took it home it was overheating so I checked the coolant level and put some in; now it's ok with no leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard it might be the cat? Would it fix it if I took it off without damaging the sensor? I don't care if it ridiculously loud. I just want the car to get its power back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when I put the car into low gear and drive and shift up it seems like its not even working. It seems like its just stuck in one gear. It does accelerate, just really really slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T12:05:59.363" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T12:05:59.363" Title="1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL: No power and engine won't go above 2K RPM" Tags="|automatic-transmission|power|rpm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T17:23:27.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2014-10-14T22:22:51.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Allan pointed out, AC cycles on and off, but should have a negligible effect. If you are finding it causing engine problems the two areas to look are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery. It may be yours is on the way out, and the AC load pulls it below a threshold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aircon. It could be faulty and causing far more load than expected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery first - it's cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T22:22:51.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T22:53:30.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving this vehicle on the highway going home. All of a sudden I noticed the oil light coming on, battery light came on too and I could not go past 60mph. So I suddenly pulled over and as soon and I pulled over the car just shut down/off and did not crank back up. Got it towed home. Long story short before this even happened I was informed I had a weak engine so I got a used low mile engine installed. Car cranks up but will not go into gear or move. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7224" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T23:39:54.260" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T23:39:54.260" Title="2003 mazda 6 won't move or go into gear" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T06:42:54.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12748" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:12:03.080" Score="2" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine oil is a bit low on my peugeot 504 (petrol 4 cylinders from 1979). I'm would like to top it up, but can't locate where oil filler tap is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7226" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:07:08.267" Title="Where is the engine oil filler tap on my Peugeot 504?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|oil-change|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:21:51.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 aztek with 120000 miles was overheating badly. Radiator had a leak and was replaced. Still overheating with new thermostat. Bottom line dexcool ate head gaskets up. Was losing Antifreeze thru cylinder. Replaced head gaskets and put in standard Antifreeze. Runs great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7227" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:21:51.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12745" CreationDate="2014-10-15T13:07:08.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it is down the side of the engine, on the left-hand side... It would appear that the filler is part of the oil recirculation system, there should be a hose going down into a round thing, the top of which should pull off (with the hose still attached) to allow you to top it up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.504.org/ManuelUs74.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; has a scan of the owner's manual, Pages 5 and 51 seem to be the most useful (although that's a relative statement!). It seems to be better illustrated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.504.org/CatPiecesDetachees.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exploded parts diagram&lt;/a&gt; on the same site - the fourth page of the second chapter. Images not hotlinked to avoid overwhelming the site in question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:07:08.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12737" CreationDate="2014-10-15T13:16:12.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a really quick solution, try getting hold of a spare seatbelt from a scrap vehicle (I doubt the shape changes often, so I expect any reasonably recent Toyota would do, just get one that is the same as the belts in your car). Remove the tongue (The t shaped bit) from the belt, and keep it to hand - then, when you're driving on the trails and want to disable the alarm, simply plug that into the buckle - thus completing the circuit and switching off the alarm...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:16:12.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:43:29.883" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Honda Civic 2013 LX which had an issue with the original key. I drove with valet key and drove it about 60 miles. After that it's dead. I thought it's an original key issue which I have had programmed. Now at least it starts, but it dies right away. I sent it to the dealer and was recommended to change the fuel pump. It has been changed, but still has the issue. Engine starts and dies right away. Any one have clue what is that issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7229" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T17:40:11.760" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T17:40:11.760" Title="Problem with engine starting up and dying right away" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T16:17:21.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T18:33:53.243" Score="6" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our landscaping company is going to purchase a new medium duty truck. We have diesels and had just defaulted into looking for another diesel powered truck. However the mechanic we use (and trust) said that we should consider gas engines for a number of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial cost for gas engine is lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage is similar/diesel oil is more expensive than gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gas engines more suited for the short-trip (2 - 10 mile) type driving we do. We might put 15k per year on a vehicle, but typically quite a bit less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long term maintenance on gas engines is cheaper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can evaluate the first three claims ourselves, but we have no idea about comparing the long term costs of maintaining the engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7231" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T00:22:53.677" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T20:13:46.033" Title="How do maintenance costs compare between gas and diesel engines?" Tags="|maintenance|fuel-system|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T18:42:36.917" Score="22" ViewCount="49775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you write off my question as one that's been answered a million times already, I want to clarify.  I understand that the engine needs to go a certain rpm and when you try to engage the clutch at once from a full stop, the engine does not have enough power to move the vehicle at that rpm and then the engine stalls.  My question is, WHY does the engine need to run at a minimum rpm?  To clarify, there a two specific scenarios I want to discuss:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) Say you are going from full stop into 1st.  You engage the clutch too quickly; the engine tries to move the vehicle, forcing the rpms to drop down too low which causes the car to stall.  Why can't engines be designed so low rpms doesn't equal a stalled engine?  Is this because the engine will overheat and this serves as a protection measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Say you are going at 70mph and then you slow down to 20mph while still in 5th gear.  In this situation (I've never done this but I'm only guessing), the engine will likely stall because the engine wants to go a certain rpm, but in 5th gear the engine needs to go slower than its minimum rpm and the engine does not have enough power to accelerate the car.  Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help guys!  I'm just learning how to drive stick, and I want to understand how everything works under the hood too :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7230" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:17:54.307" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T21:20:11.450" Title="WHY does an engine stall? (manual transmission)" Tags="|engine|stall|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2014-10-15T21:39:14.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOT 5 is silicone based and is &lt;strong&gt;no way compatible&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dot 5.1 is sort of OK but not recommended to mix with 3 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use Dot 5, you &lt;strong&gt;MUST&lt;/strong&gt; replace all rubbers, seals and flex brake lines as well as flush steel lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know ? I am running it in my muscle car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7235" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T21:55:49.430" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T21:55:49.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12752" CreationDate="2014-10-15T23:09:06.957" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;What it comes down to is there are trade offs. In the case of the engine, it's torque output and rotating mass versus engine speed ... read on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it isn't &lt;em&gt;power&lt;/em&gt; which is needed, but &lt;em&gt;torque&lt;/em&gt; to keep an engine running. In the early days of engines, each had one cylinder and didn't run very fast. To keep it running, it had a very large flywheel attached to it. Once the engine was running, it continued running because there is a little physics statement which says something like, &quot;mass in motion tends to stay in motion&quot; and conversely, &quot;mass at rest tends to stay at rest&quot;. The flywheel provides the mass which I'm talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wkqbi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from mi.eng.cam.ac.uk&quot;&gt;&#xA;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a single cylinder steam engine, but the same principle applies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGXHG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from WZOZ 103.1FM website&quot;&gt;&#xA;(This single cylinder gas engine has two flywheel masses, one on each side.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's engines are no different than those of old. They still require the mass to keep on running. Without some sort of flywheel, they will stop running. A manual transmission has a regular flywheel, which is its engine's mass. An automatic transmission has a torque converter, which is the mass for its engine. Without it, the engine will die because there isn't enough mass to keep it going between piston firings. The flywheel mass provides the torque needed to keep it going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with this in mind, in order to keep an engine going at lower speeds requires the engine to produce more torque. Think of a large ocean going vessel with a diesel engine. The Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C is supposedly the largest diesel engine in the world. It runs, full out, at 127 rpm (that's typically 1/7th the speed of your average car engine). How does it stay running at this speed? Two reasons: mass and torque. The total mass of the engine is huge ... they don't advertise it directly what the rotating mass (crank shaft, flywheels, etc) of the engine is, but if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://bcove.me/5qm0gqv2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;look at the video&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see what I'm talking about. The second part is the torque. They advertise that the KW output for their 14-cylinder engine @ 127rpm is 80,080 KW. If you run that through a few calculations, 80,080 KW converts to 107,389.03 horsepower, which at the given RPM is 4,441,001.46 ft lbs of torque. Your standard 4-cylinder car only puts out in the neighborhood of 150-180 ft lbs of max torque, and that's at a much higher RPM, say between 2500-6000. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Some 4-cylinder engines can put out way in excess of this, say like around 300 ft lbs or even more. I'm just using the numbers as a general guideline.) It takes a minimal amount of torque to keep the engine running. I don't even think Jay Leno would contemplate sticking a Wartsila engine in a car (though I bet that doesn't stop him from thinking about the engine, lol). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flywheel mass can only do so much. Once the crankshaft reaches a low rpm threshold, the engine will stop running. When an engine gets below this threshold and tries to continue to run, a large amount of stress is put upon the internal components of the engine. Think of the immovable object (pistons and rods) meeting the irresistible force (the air/fuel mixture blowing up). Once the engine slows down enough, its mass (as well as the mass of the car) reaches the point where it wants to rest (the other end of the mass-in-motion deal). Something has to give and that give usually comes at the cost of piston/rod. When you slow a vehicle down from speed while keeping the transmission in 5th gear, you will do what is called &lt;em&gt;lugging the engine&lt;/em&gt;. You'll start feeling the engine jerking heavily until it quits running. This jerking feeling is what I was talking about when I said your engine will start experiencing extreme stress. If done long enough, the engine can experience enough stress to cause catastrophic failure. Even done for short period of time damage can occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bottom line is, an engine requires so much torque output to keep it running. As the engine slows down, that torque requirement goes up to keep it going. At some point, a small engine just does not have the needed mass, nor can it produce the torque which is required to keep it running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-12-11T21:20:11.450" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T21:20:11.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3531" CreationDate="2014-10-16T02:56:34.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may use 5W-20 Regular Oil every 5,000 miles. Or 0W-20 Synthetic every 10,000 miles. Syntheticc&#xA; cost more but, more mileage between changes and better gas mileage, plus better cold starting, are all benefits of synthetic. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7237" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T02:56:34.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T09:51:04.400" Score="10" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to install a new headlight on my bike. The current setup is two bulbs, one is on for low beam and both on for high beam, with two wires going out of each (h11?). Here is a short video of someone taking apart theirs (I have the same setup): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=sseygM8ipQA#t=41&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=sseygM8ipQA#t=41&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new headlight will have one 55w HID bulb, with 3 wires going to it (h4?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect two male h11 (?) To the existing connectors (to avoid splicing).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the positive wires from each bulb connector and wire from the front to under the saddle (may be unnecessary wiring, but might be easier than finding the other end?).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each positive wire goes into it's own relay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each relay is connected to the battery (and fuse)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each relay has one wire going to the new headlight, I.e. from under the saddle to the front.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One relay is for low beam and other for high beam&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect 3rd wire from new headlight to battery negative pole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I do such wiring, and I was wondering if someone could offer some advice, e.g. (+anything else useful):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the above correct, and am I missing anything?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of relays do I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What gauge of wire to relays from existing connectors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What gauge of wire from relays to new headlight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyone know a diagram for wiring this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is much appreciated, thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked in the manual, and the fuse for headlight/brake light is 20amps (bike is victory highball 2012). Does that answer the question? I don't know much about these things, but if I get the right wiring and parts, I should be able to follow instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The HID kits I've seen come with ballasts, but I thought I would be safer with relays (?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7239" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T20:04:39.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T20:04:39.263" Title="Motorcycle Headlight Conversion" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|wiring|hid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T13:35:23.093" Score="4" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Ford Fiesta makes a sound like air coming out of a bicycle pump (in my opinion) when going over speed bumps. I noticed the rubber buffer on the back right shock is damaged. Can you help me diagnose the problem? Is it serious? From the little tests I have done, the car seems to be running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7241" LastEditorUserId="6360" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T20:52:19.687" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:36:54.517" Title="Are my shocks bad?" Tags="|ford|shock-absorber|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2014-10-16T13:50:58.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out I had 2 fuses that were burnt out. Some ignition one and the alternator fuse under the hood. I'm hoping they were blown when the car was initially jumped and there is no other underlying cause. Thank you for your responses they were very helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7202" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T13:50:58.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12737" CreationDate="2014-10-16T15:38:01.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The safe way of turning seatbelt chime/alarm off&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;During these steps, do not touch the brake at all&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shut the door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key on and get your instrument panel on &lt;code&gt;ODO&lt;/code&gt; and turn key off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the key back on, press reset knob immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hold reset knob for 12_15 seconds and fasten the seat belt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;xxxx miles should turn to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;b_on&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;release and press one time, it should say &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;code&gt;b_off&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for it to reset back to miles and turn the key off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatbelt chime/alarm will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T16:17:33.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12762" CreationDate="2014-10-16T15:42:09.607" Score="3" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2003 Mitsubishi Evolution, and I was looking at the transmission's gear ratio here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/evo-8-9-transmission-gear-ratios&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/evo-8-9-transmission-gear-ratios&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell if I'm misinterpreting the mathematics of the gear ratios, but I noticed that the ratio differences get smaller the higher up the gear. Does that equate to smaller differences between gear teeth as the gearing is higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the convention for gearing selections? I would think that the ratio differences would increase (not saying that the gear ratios themselves increase, but the differences in ratios between consecutive gears increase). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7243" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T16:03:30.830" Title="Transmission Gear Ratio Convention" Tags="|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:03:30.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your understanding of gear ratios is incorrect. As the gear ratio goes up numerically, you get a larger torque multiplication advantage. A 2:1 ratio gives you twice as much torque leverage than you have at 1:1. A 3:1 ratio gives you three times as much advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the first gear ratio of the stock EVO8, it shows the number: 2.928. This means the input of the transmission (engine side) turns 2.928 times for one turn of the output going to the differential. The differential provides another reduction in turning, which provides your final drive number, which I believe is the top number of 4.53:1 (4.53 engine revolutions per one turn of the output shaft going to the wheels). As it says in the data below this, at 3000 rpm, the speed of the vehicle should be around 17mph. As you go to subsequent gears (2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th), the ratio goes down and engine speed goes down. So, when you are in 5th gear at 3000 rpm, your vehicle speed is now 70mph. This equates to a lot better speed for the same amount of engine work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this helps you understand it any better ... if not, please leave comments and I will explain further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T16:03:30.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12955" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:20:39.177" Score="18" ViewCount="274309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Honda Civic that had this in the car: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N57qS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what it does, and how it's supposed to help. Even Honda's website is ambiguous, just using a lot of fuzzy words to describe what it does. &lt;a href=&quot;http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2014/Civic-Sedan/features/Eco-Assist-System/4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;From the website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Econ Button and Eco Assist™ System&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the exception of the Si models, all Civics are equipped with the&#xA;  Econ Button™ to help enhance your fuel efficiency while driving. The&#xA;  Ecological Drive Assist System (Eco Assist™) is a fuel efficiency&#xA;  information system designed to help you develop and maintain a&#xA;  fuel-efficient driving style. The system monitors driving style, and&#xA;  can display the impact of your driving style on the vehicle’s fuel&#xA;  efficiency. This feedback can help you make adjustments to take full&#xA;  advantage of the fuel efficiency potential of the Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it some sort of placebo effect? It says it's supposed to help me improve driving, in conjunction with good road habits.  But what is it actually doing when I push that button?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7244" LastEditorUserId="55566" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T23:28:18.337" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T23:28:18.337" Title="What does Honda's 'Econ' button do? Does it truly improve fuel efficiency?" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|civic|fuel-consumption|driving|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T19:39:06.973" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a Tom Tom navigation device that does not only provide routing information but that also records the route I'm driving. I would prefer a ready-made solution, but if not possible, I would also be fine with installing a mode/scripting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T05:22:03.603" Title="Tom Tom Navigation device that records driven route?" Tags="|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-05-16T00:40:03.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11995" CreationDate="2014-10-16T21:52:13.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the assistance. I finally got around to figuring this out and wanted to share the solution that worked best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;On-Bike Stator Check&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to test a motorcycle stator&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the stator while on the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate the regulator/rectifier &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are three yellow cables to link the regulator to the stator &#xA;(I tested mine after swapping in a new regulator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the open side of the regulator/stator connector using the three ports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your multimeter set to OHMS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the three stator wires by alternating the positive/negative leads across the three ports:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &gt; B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B &gt; C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C &gt; A&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(see 1:42 on the video above, btw - sequence is not overly important just alternate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that nothing goes to ground from these wires by touching to the battery&#xA;(see 2:06 on the video above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next test the stator while the bike is running&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug in the stator connector attached to the regulator/rectifier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the multimeter to VAC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the back side of the stator connector test the ports&#xA;(Similar to OHMS test this VAC tests is against the three ports)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phase 1 to 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phase 2 to 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phase 3 to 1&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(see 2:17 of video link provided)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When motor is cranked the voltage on the stator cables should increase exponentially as the RPM increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(see 2:51 of video)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;On-Bike Rectifier/Regulator Check&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To perform regulator diode check on bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set multimeter to diode function&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the regulator/rectifier on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either unplug (or expose the back side of) the stator and diode connector(s) &#xA;(can be one or two connectors, the stator connectors will normally be yellow wires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separately test the forward/reverse bias of the positive and negative diode between the three stator leads. (see 2:08 of the video for how to do this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulator/rectifier can apparently have other issues that can cause problems but this test is all that can be done on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;On-Bike Battery Check&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate the battery positive (+/red cable normally) and negative (-/black cable normally) terminal; &lt;em&gt;check the plastic on the battery near the terminal to be sure of terminal charge&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set multimeter to VDC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test battery at rest (no engine on, touch multimeter positive/negative cables to respective battery terminals); it should be between 12.5 and 12.8 (mine was 12.66)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test battery with engine on and note the rise in VDC when engine is revving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - Replacing the regulator required 6 screws and little to no elbow grease. Next up I need to consider replacing the stator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:52:13.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36712" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:18:20.010" Score="8" ViewCount="47227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a key (for a 2006 Ford Focus), and the bit that attaches it to the keyring has broken off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could fix this by drilling a hole in it, and attaching the keyring to that. But it's got some electronic doodads inside it (so you can't just copy the key and start the car with it). Where is a safe place to drill a hole in it? Or how can I work out (without an x-ray machine) where it's safe to drill?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fjuL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Key&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7246" LastEditorUserId="7255" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T10:44:24.927" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T23:22:33.047" Title="Where can I drill a hole in my Ford key?" Tags="|ford|key|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12770" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:21:22.133" Score="6" ViewCount="5207" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Stator Test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 DL 1000 V-Strom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the following process while checking the stator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put multimeter to VAC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested the three phases of the stator connector plugged into a new regulator &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 &gt; 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 &gt; 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 &gt; 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When revving the engine, the VAC coming through climbs to only about 11.3volts (!?!) The VAC coming in at idle is 10.83volts. I am pretty sure I have a bad stator. Please let me know the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I performing the correct test or should I be looking for a different issue (given the symptoms)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing the stator test correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery does not recharge &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tasks done to date:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swap battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swap regulator/rectifier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested no-load stator (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11995/motorcycle-recharge-system-checks/12765#12765&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removed the stator cover and discovered that the permanent magnets have broken loose from the rotor (so new rotor on order) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the results of the test, and inspection of the stator I think the test has been validated as the correct procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T01:01:13.220" Title="Is this the correct procedure for a stator test?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|diagnostics|multimeter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:28:32.907" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about putting some valve grinding paste in between the moving ball and cup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T22:28:32.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:42:47.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the rotor on this alternator a permanent magnet or is it a coil?&#xA;If its a coil it will need an excitation current for the alternator to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T22:42:47.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12752" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:49:35.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine is optimized to be efficient at high rpm or at low rpm (racing engine or cement mixer design respectively) but it can't be efficient at every possible speed so it is up to the driver to choose the best gear and speed to match the capabilities of the motor he has, i.e. keep it revving at an appropriate rpm for the speed/torque demanded of that motor type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T22:49:35.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12766" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:03:40.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not build up the back of the key with araldite [epoxy] and then drill that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:03:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12766" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:12:44.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use some &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sugru&lt;/a&gt; on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGfpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sugru&amp;#39;ed my alarm fob back together&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rubbery in consistency so it won't just snap off when you drop your keys. Use a piece of metal or plastic for the &quot;crossbar&quot; and sugru around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7249" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T20:52:14.980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:52:14.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12764" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:18:15.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some units can output a serial NMEA0183 data stream which gives lat/long coords. These can then be superimposed on a digital map&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:18:15.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12736" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:26:26.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a breather tube that has become nipped causing the &quot;vacuum&quot;. There will always be a design feature that keeps the tank pressure close to atmospheric as the fuel gets used so if something goes wrong with that a low pressure situation will be created&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:26:26.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12715" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:31:10.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have  a vacuum operated fuel valve? If so you need to suck on the vacuum pipe to allow fuel to flow into carburetor. You should then see it gush out if the bowl is removed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:31:10.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:34:02.850" Score="5" ViewCount="2219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this Elantra 2012. I notice that when I'm at a red light waiting to move, my foot is on the brake pedal, the car is shaking. It's not a hard shake, but just at my feet and in my seat I can feel it. What might this can be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7250" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T00:05:38.227" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T21:45:16.203" Title="Car shakes while stopped with my brake pressed" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|elantra|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:48:18.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is exactly the same amount of wear on the handbrake mechanism when you pull it on regardless of the weight of car and the incline. That wear only depends how hard you pull it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle moves on the hill the shoes will wear a little but insignificant compared to normal breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:48:18.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12608" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:59:26.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rust is severe I use a dremel to carefully remove it very locally. Then use a cocktail stick dipped in paint to fill the scratch. Build up the paint each time it dries till it is above the surface paint. Finally, t-cut it back till it bends with the surrounding paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T23:59:26.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12799" CreationDate="2014-10-17T01:01:26.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be buying a 1990 Ford Festiva with a manual transmission this weekend. I found it for a 'bargain price' for a understandable reason; it's a beater.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIs1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner said he did the timing belt. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;--This is a non-interference engine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said after he did the timing belt the car will idle just fine but when he gives it any gas the car will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also mentioned that he had this issue before and he just replaced the fuel pump and that fixed it, however he said this time it happened right after he did the timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the timing being off cause this problem? Is it serious enough to the point that I will need to re-seat or replace the belt; or should I be able to just fix it by adjusting the distributor cap? I've never set timing on a vehicle before so I'm a newbie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3823" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:27:53.390" Title="Engine dies upon pressing gas pedal, idles fine" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2014-10-17T01:06:21.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be the motor mounts. They isolate the vibration of engine from the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T01:06:21.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12584" CreationDate="2014-10-17T01:09:41.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a start your starter motor is the cylindrical thing to the right of #9 in this picture&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UOGU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;starter location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd check it has a good connection to ground (is the resistance between the - negative terminal of battery to the outer steel of the starter lots less than 1?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whip the seat off and check the starter relay and see if theres any corrosion and it's nice and tight. It's the translucent covered thing immediately up and to the left of the positive battery terminal.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzAVi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;relay location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you try and push start it? Do the pistons feel like they are pumping around when you let the clutch out? If they don't then maybe something has seized and the starter doesn't have the power to crank everything around so it just buzzes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it's probably not because if you have a green connector failure then I don't think any current would make it to the starter motor, but under the fuel tank there is a green connector that is famous for corroding and causing starting issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7249" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T01:09:41.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T01:35:26.267" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;After coming from vacation (11 days) my Honda would not open with key had to call CAA they open the door and gave a boost &#xA;I am driving but the alarm light does not flush &#xA;what my next step should be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7251" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T01:35:26.267" Title="Honda Civic 2012 the car wouldnot open with clicker or with master key" Tags="|battery|door|alarm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T19:07:06.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12599" CreationDate="2014-10-17T04:10:01.713" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a tiny leak between the water passages and the oil passages in the engine. I would also expect to see some antifreeze in the oil and on the dipstick like mayonnaise in the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7254" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T04:10:01.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12766" CreationDate="2014-10-17T09:19:53.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cover should come off (for replacing the battery and whatnot), then you can drill a hole wherever you like with the electronics in full view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1546" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T09:19:53.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12792" CreationDate="2014-10-17T09:26:48.990" Score="4" ViewCount="5153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Manual 97 Mazda Lantis 323 1.8L DOHC 16 Valve BP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the following wire unplugged on the drivers side of the engine, next to the water intake from the radiator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJ3ww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It plugs into the grey connector with the gold base.  I plugged it in and the car wouldn't start.  So I unplugged it and was able to get it to start after giving it some gas, but now the idle is erratic, falling almost down to around 200 and then jumping back up to 1000 ( previously it was fast idling just below 2k) .  The engine also has a clear shake as if the timing on the pistons has gotten screwed up. I've also got a red light with an explanation point in it on the dash to the left of the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little history: the car had a head and ring job a few years ago, and the throttle body was replaced six months ago  with a TB from an automatic due to idle and stalling problems.  Not sure if the original TPS was kept or not.  Previous owner claims he drove every day with no problems since then, but the first day I had it I noticed it idling around 2k after the engine warmed up and revving caused black smoke out the tail pipe.  Getting about 10 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After finding a repair manual online I think that that thing in the picture is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Mazda-323-MX-3-626-MX-6-Millenia-Prot%C3%A9g%C3%A9-1990-1998-and-Ford-Probe-1993-1997/ELECTRONIC-ENGINE-CONTROLS/Water-Thermosensor-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f80cb0ee6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Water Thermosensor&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm wondering if this is the source of all my problems?  Maybe the guy who did the work for the previous owner changed the throttle, saw it didn't solve the problem and then just disconnected the water thermosensor to get it working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T14:12:07.673" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:16:40.023" Title="Mazda 323: Plugged in Coolant Temp Sensor - Now Car won't Start" Tags="|engine|mazda|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12793" CreationDate="2014-10-17T09:53:53.000" Score="3" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Manual 97 Mazda Lantis 323 1.8L DOHC 16 Valve BP and was wondering if the EMU / ECU on it learns?  Could unplugging the battery to reset it help some of my problems with erratic idle? &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12788/mazda-323-plugged-in-loose-wire-now-car-wont-start&quot;&gt;I found a wire disconnected&lt;/a&gt; which when connected prevented the car from starting.&#xA;Maybe the EMU just needs to be reset after connecting the wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T14:36:58.977" Title="Mazda 323: Does the EMU / ECU learn?" Tags="|mazda|throttle|electronic-control-module|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2014-10-17T11:24:54.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the answer is still relevant, but I own the XR650L big red pig and may say that it's rather safe to mess with the carb of this bike even if you don't have specific skills. It's very forgiving unless you do something really wild. I used to ride about 500 km on my with mixture being extremely lean and was lucky enough to have my engine undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is that I confirm that this bike feels relatively sick at these altitudes due to the mixture being too rich for a given air pressure. You'll need to lean it a bit. But first you have to confirm running rich. The simpliest way to do that is getting out your spark plug and inspecting its color. Please carefully clean the engine and the cylinder head before removing spark plug to avoid even dust entering the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plug should be dark brown, you can easily find pictures with proper color over the internet. I'd bet that yours is completely black. By the way, replacing spark plug with iridium one may help a bit with engine stuttering, but doesn't solve an issue completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the spark plug back in (using a tiny bit of motor oil on the spark plug threads (not the electrode, just threads) will help reducing risk of stripping cylinder head threads) and get to the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that first thing you need to do is grinding off the mixture screw tab as described in Dave's Carb mod here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xr650lcarbmods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xr650lcarbmods/&lt;/a&gt; Please also note that you don't need all these mods because they are enrichening mixture a bit, which is something you want to avoid, you need only the mixture screw tab grinding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, mixture screw only adjusts the mixture when engine idling or running at low throttle while your stuttering should happen with the throttle wide open. Mixture at the throttle wide open depends much on the carb needle and the main jet so you will need to go for these parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When having your carb apart of motorcycle, please check if your needle is adjustable. If previous owner used any sort of jetting kit, it's very likely to be so. Stock needle doesn't have adjustments at all. You need to lower adjustable needle a bit to lean the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the needle is stock then the ultimate solution is replacing your main jet with a smaller one. Stock is #152 and you may need #150. Find somewhere a #150 main jet that fits your carb and replace yours with that one. That should fix your stuttering issues completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of any dust or sand entering carb or engine. Always operate in a clear room with proper tools. Get yourself an XR650L service manual - it's very handy. Think twice before acting. Buy yourself #150 main jet in advance - it's rather cheap. And always change one thing at once - e.g. never change both main jet and the needle altitude at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all sounds complicated, but it takes about 3 hours to change main jet at this bike for an unexperienced mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing carb settings go for 30-50 kilometers ride, get back and reinspect the spark plug color even if the bike feels much better. If you make your mixture too lean (gray, almost white spark plug), it will feel good, but you could overheat and melt the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and there is a simple solution to your problem, which is putting on an aftermarket exhaust with improved air flow. This will also lean mixture a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7257" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T11:24:54.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12788" CreationDate="2014-10-17T14:30:05.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This absolutely could be the issue. On fuel injected vehicles, the &lt;strong&gt;coolant temperature sensor&lt;/strong&gt; is one of the key sensors used (O2, MAP, &amp;amp; MAF are others) in calibrating the fuel map stored in the computer. Without the computer knowing the temperature of the engine, it has to run in a &quot;limp-home&quot; or &quot;open loop&quot; mode (depending on how the vehicle manufacturer does things). This mode is usually &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; rich. It does this so that the engine will not encounter a lean state which can cause damage much faster than a rich state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that yours is shorted internally, thus the reason why the car is not starting when plugged in. And like I said, it goes into a limp home state when unplugged. You can definitely try testing it, but I think you are on the right track. If it isn't &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; thing, it is definitely &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; thing which is wrong and needs to be addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb0e9e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the actual test you want to use.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the part looks like when pulled out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CwVMy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image Pulled from autozone.com &quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T14:30:05.397" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12789" CreationDate="2014-10-17T14:36:58.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, most car ECU's learn. I'm going to assume yours is no different. If you decide to replace the coolant temperature sensor, I'd disconnect the battery at that time. When you get everything back together, it should have it's volatile memory erased and your car can start from jump street. Some cars ECU's erase in a matter of a couple of minutes, others can take 20-30 minutes. I'd go for the latter and call it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a good thought on your part and I would definitely do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T14:36:58.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T16:15:24.167" Score="1" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Civic DX has a issue with the temp gauge in the dash. The needle has traveled to the opposite side than it normally registers on. Meaning it is pointing to the left away from the temp increments on the right side where it normally registers.It registers the same with the sending unit connected or disconnected so it is kind of hard to tell what my motor temp is? What could cause this and how can I repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7260" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T21:24:19.983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T21:24:19.983" Title="Honda Civic DX dash temperature gauge malfunctioning?" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|troubleshooting|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T16:22:21.437" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;On our 2001 Dodge Durango sometimes acts as if a door is open and all the cab lights come on and the bell keeps dinging even when they are all closed and we are driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens we also can't use the power locks or power windows and to stop it I have to unhook the battery then hook it back and it is fine until it decides to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on things I can check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T17:04:53.610" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:28:40.197" Title="2001 Dodge Durango Acts like door is open when they are shut" Tags="|electrical|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12795" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:06:51.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be a sensor switch in the door jam, check that it can move freely and lubricate it if necessary. Also check its wiring for chaffed insulation or a corroded connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:06:51.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12794" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:09:34.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the sender unit and check the continuity with an ohm meter. If if measures open circuit the sender is faulty and should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:09:34.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12801" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:19:33.380" Score="2" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, here's the problem.  I'll prime my weedeater, put full choke on, pull the cord a few times.  Now, BEFORE, the engine never started with full choke.  I would need to move it to half choke, pull the cord again, let it warm up for 30 seconds, then take the choke off.  But now, the engine stays on with full choke on.  When I try move the choke to half choke, it dies.  The engine NEVER used to stay on when the choke was 100% on.  It would &quot;kind of&quot; turn over a second, then die (as expected), and that was my cue to put it on half choke and start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did to try to fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took the muffler off, cleaned it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took the throttle body off, did what I could to clean it by shooting compressed air through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took off all the fuel hoses, and made sure they weren't clogged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noticed before I did all of this was that the fuel bulb was hard to inflate back, when I pressed it.  As if there was a clog or something.  But, after I cleaned out the fuel hoses, I press the bulb (deflate it), and it almost instantly inflates again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what might be the problem?  I can't keep the weedeater's engine on when the choke is not 100% on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7203" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T21:57:34.337" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:57:34.337" Title="Issue w/ weedeater engine - doesn't stay on" Tags="|engine|throttle|fuel-line|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12781" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:27:53.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the belt was off a tooth it could give that response.  My MR2 idled fine, but would barely get over 25mph after the timing belt jumped a tooth (and it sounded like a lawnmower).  Could also be something else disconnected during the process though like Paulster2 mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:27:53.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3930" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:45:16.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem on a Mazda 3  2005 Broken rear springs with last half coil sitting in rear control arm  Put your finger in it a see if something moves very sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7263" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:45:16.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12798" CreationDate="2014-10-17T20:50:02.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your carb is plugged, probably due to ethanol gas. It is heck on these small engines. The easiest way to fix this is to replace the carb. The crud from the ethanol gets into the very small orifices and clogs them up. There is enough of a draw from the vacuum created under full choke for it to draw gas and keep it running, but once you take the choke off, the gas stops. There is almost no way to get this carb rebuilt without a huge hassle. Most small engine carbs are very cheap on the internet and are easily found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, use Sta-Bil (or other like fuel stabilizer) in your fuel for the weedeater. This will prevent just this type of problem. Also, when you are done with it for the year, empty out all the remaining gas in the tank, then start it up and run it until it dies (carburetor down for best fuel flow), that way the carb will be devoid of any fuel. Just fill and go next year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T20:57:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T20:57:52.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8338" CreationDate="2014-10-17T21:06:19.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try a right angle adapter in your drill to give you more room.&#xA;Here is a link to the sort of thing  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/angled-drill-chuck-10mm/39590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.screwfix.com/p/angled-drill-chuck-10mm/39590&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could then try the easy out or if that fails [or it snaps off] weld an old ring spanner over the stub of the spark plug, the heat from the weld will help to free the plug. You can place a long tube over the ring spanner to get more leverage so be sure to position it optimally when you weld it on, as it may be the last chance you have to free it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:06:19.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9389" CreationDate="2014-10-17T21:21:40.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the barrel of the lock is damaged, maybe the striker for anticlockwise movement is missing or worn. [the actuator that pushes the locking mechanism back when you turn the key in the unlock direction]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:21:40.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-18T00:16:42.257" Score="-1" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unable to locate a replacement &quot;Windshield Wiper Module&quot; which is apparently and OEM GM part used on early versions of GM Intermittent Windshield Wipers (IWW).  If I cannot locate a replacement, can anyone comment on how the module functioned so I can try to replace it with a more modern Relay module that can simply operate the wipers without being intermittent.  This is the very first time that I have looked for a part for my old cars that it cannot be found, at any price.  It seems that either the OEM part was bulletproof and mine is an unlucky occurrence, or they were very poorly designed and virtually everyone who owned a mid 80's GM G-Body somehow wired around the module so as to be able to operate a G-Body in the rain?  Does anyone out there happen to have a failed one so I could try to reverse engineer it and actually build a few to see if there is interest in them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with mine is that if the wipers are switched &quot;on&quot;, they will not turn off until the ignition key is switched to off.  Dry windshield or at-speed stopping and then restarting is not a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7265" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T13:51:03.633" Title="G body Windshield wiper module" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12704" CreationDate="2014-10-18T04:29:10.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I essentially gave up and took it to a mechanic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fuel pump was dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened was my fuel pump was dying. It was providing around 5psi of pressure when it needed around 9-14psi.&#xA;Overall, I had the mechanic replace the pump &amp;amp; regulator and the truck is working normally again. I had some codes on my computer for the EGR system and the MAP sensor. I replaced the MAP sensor and the vacuum tube myself;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T04:29:10.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12807" CreationDate="2014-10-18T05:38:44.947" Score="3" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to flush my cooling system and change the thermostat on my Mk1 Golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All went fine until I put the new coolant in. There is a pretty steady leak from the thermostat housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tightened the screws as much as I feel safe doing, but it wont stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What surprised me when I was removing the old thermostat was that there was no gasket or seal around where thermostat housing attaches - only an O-ring on the thermostat its self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know that I can do or if I've done something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T07:53:20.943" Title="Changed thermostat but now constant leak around thermostat housing" Tags="|cooling-system|golf|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12806" CreationDate="2014-10-18T07:53:20.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found out this actually requires another O-ring, not a gasket. Another O-ring came with new the thermostat and I was able to use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T07:53:20.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12804" CreationDate="2014-10-18T12:43:05.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is in one of two places. It's going to be in the switch (turn signal mounted) or in the electronics of the wiper motor. My suggestion is that it will be in the motor itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two places you can look which usually have parts for older cars ... and believe me when I say, &quot;mid-80's&quot; is not old. Check on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rockauto.com&lt;/a&gt; and on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GMPartsDirect.com&lt;/a&gt;. Both have a LOT of parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T12:43:05.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12003" CreationDate="2014-10-18T12:53:15.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the speed sensor and the fuel level sensor and resetting the codes. A new code came up U1001 (CAN communication) in addition to the other codes. I tracked the problem back to the instrument cluster where the fuel level sensor and the speed sensor signals travel through to the ECU. Replaced the instrument cluster with one from a junk yard, cleared the codes and the issue with the tach went away and the codes haven't come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T12:53:15.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T10:36:40.033" Score="0" ViewCount="5363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any differences between one brand of oil filter and another?  For example, I see that an &quot;original&quot; Mazda oil filter is twice the price as a generic brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T14:33:30.557" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T19:35:34.730" Title="Difference Between Oil Filters" Tags="|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T12:23:51.207" Score="5" ViewCount="29230" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a C250, W204, 2011 model, and i noticed that the ECO mode is not working anymore.&#xA;When i turn the car on, the ECO button light is green and the ECO sign appears in the cluster. After 1-2 min, the ECO sign dissapears from the cluster and the green light on the ECO button goes off. &#xA;Even if you press the button nothing happens. Previously, you could press the button to enable ECO mode and the ECO sign appears in cluster. The sign in cluster was yellow if car could not meet criteria of &#xA;ECO mode or Green if it was. Now, the button is dead. No Eco sign appears in cluster anymore. All criterias of Eco mode are met(a/c is off, engine temperature is OK,etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Yiannis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7272" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T15:00:48.150" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T09:01:14.003" Title="Mercedes C250- Eco mode not working" Tags="|engine|electrical|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:04:57.623" Score="2" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ranger has started to stutter violently and occasionally stall out at around 2k rpms while in drive.  It doesn't happen when in park and I rev it up to 2k rpms.  It happens in any gear while in drive.  It also seems to be related to the weather but I have no confirmation on that.  I can pull it out of the stutter most times by flooring it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure where to start on this one.  Couple things I was thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;O2 sensor (changed this and still does it)&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;Throttle position sensor.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing a little off. (maybe one or two teeth off?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;I just changed all of the spark plugs and re-gapped them to .044in&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas before I start tearing it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4299" LastEditorUserId="4299" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T11:45:30.960" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T20:16:14.150" Title="Ford Ranger 1989 2.3 L 2wd intermittent stutter/stall 2k rpm" Tags="|ford|shaking|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-10-19T17:53:50.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I'm going to attempt an answer, and I'd like to encourage other members to edit and perhaps make this a canonical Q&amp;amp;A: Yes, there are differences between one brand of oil filter and another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reference to your comment above, if you put the wrong grade material nut or bolt in the wrong application, you'll find out that fasteners are not very generic, though there are standards for manufacturers are supposed to follow, typically determined by the cryptic stamps on them. There are unreliable manufacturers of these items, so those buying directly from factories do tests to verify the standards are being followed, then we all buy the fasteners from these trusted resellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are generally certain features that an OEM filter will have, such as a bypass with a certain relief setting, threads that match, size that fits in the engine compartment, flow ratings that match, etc. An after market filter that states it is &quot;OEM equivalent&quot; is probably just claiming to meet similar minimum requirements, but this is not going to have anything to do with filter media efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much more difficult to tell when a filter is not meeting some minimum standard than a fastener, because even if the filter catastrophically fails, there may no way to tell, other than increased wear on an engine that is running unfiltered oil (e.g. all oil flowing through the bypass), and especially difficult when the oil is actually being changed regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether or not the filter media of one brand is as efficient as another, that's another story. For comparing filter brands, Google is your friend. I have my opinions, but I recognize that's all they are, thus not appropriate for an SE Q&amp;amp;A site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T17:53:50.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2014-10-19T19:58:55.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the front of the seat there is a motor and shaft assembly that slides the seat forward and backwards. At the end of the shaft there are two plastic plugs that are screwed into the housing, which acts as a bushing and an adjuster. If one of these plugs falls out the tracks jams up and the seat will not move. Remove the four bolts that hold the seat in place and tilt it back, so you can inspect the mechanism. Check the right side if the plug has fallen out. It is a white plastic part with a screwdriver slot. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7274" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T23:19:13.863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T23:19:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T22:12:36.760" Score="1" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I have 2000 Buick Regal LS that I bought from my aunt. One of the back passenger door windows was stuck to where it remains up. Just recently, it has been deciding to finally fall down while driving. So, of course, I push the window up everyday after every trip I make. Well, yesterday I go out to my car and I notice the window is completely shattered into numerous pieces. My question to you, can a window shatter if its off track? How much, an estimate, would it cost to fix the window?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7275" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T08:19:47.033" Title="Can a passanger door window just shatter if it's off track?" Tags="|power-windows|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12819" CreationDate="2014-10-19T22:53:55.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Side windows are tempered glass. They are made to shatter into a million pieces (as you just found out). All it takes is pressure in the right place in the right direction to have it shatter. Can it being off track cause this? I would assume there was just enough stress in the right place and that's all she wrote. I had shut a car door once with the window partially down and it shattered. Realistically it doesn't take much to make the window shatter, so it could happen with it just being off track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T22:53:55.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12816" CreationDate="2014-10-19T23:05:24.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely it's the throttle position sensor (TPS). What happens is they can get a dead spot in them. If you look at them, they are just a rheostat which varies the voltage as it comes through ... different positions means different voltages because of the amount of resistance which the electricity has to flow through. You get a spot in there where no electricity is being passed and you have a dead spot. This shows up at a certain RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O2 sensor doesn't cause this problem in the first place. It manifests other issues, such as poor gas mileage. Unless the thing just up and dies, it will continue to function without throwing a trouble code quite some time past when it should be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the timing was a bit off (you say a tooth or two), it would be all the time while you are trying to drive it, not just at a certain RPM speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, you'd see other issues if it were the spark plugs. Seeing as how they are new, you shouldn't be having any issues with them. I don't know off the top of my head what the gap should be for them, but .044&quot; sounds about right or at least in the ball park. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T23:05:24.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12830" CreationDate="2014-10-20T09:41:30.793" Score="3" ViewCount="80607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've developed the habit of using the neutral gear in my automatic Honda Fit when going down slight inclines where I would otherwise have to use the accelerator to maintain speed. I understand that shifting into neutral while moving has no detrimental effects on the transmission and engine directly, however, I also shift back into drive sometimes while the car is still moving - I try to match RPMs as best I can guess before moving it back into drive. The questions I have are:&#xA;Is shifting back into drive while moving harmful to the engine or transmission? And if so, can RPM matching mitigate effects? Or should I simply stop doing this all together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7277" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T07:13:18.047" Title="Automatic Transmission - Shifting from Neutral to Drive while in motion" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:42:19.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done that a number of times while trying to diagnose odd noises that only occur at speed.  Nothing bad has ever happened, but those times are all spread across a number of cars, so the times I've done it per car is very low.  Could have a cumulative effect?  Like @Nate says, it's technically illegal in many places.  I can't recommend it as standard practice either way because it does put the car into an unusual state and could make emergency handling more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T16:42:19.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12814" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:44:34.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely.  OEM filters for one particular car of mine have an anti-drainback valve, whereas aftermarkets do not (including some expensive ones).  Quality of materials used and filtration can vary wildly while still being &quot;acceptable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T16:44:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T18:53:23.403" Score="3" ViewCount="9978" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cruise Control on my 2002 Forester S stopped working recently. For some time I had problems engaging the CC altogether, requiring multiple clicks on the activation push-button. Then it stopped working completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a retrospect, I may have confused a possibly-bad CC (on-wheel) lever with the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the green and amber bulbs of the button died some time ago, and I thought maybe the burnt bulb opens the circuit, so it cannot be engaged. Searching for replacement reference, I found replacement bulbs at RadioShack, and this week I finally had the time to replace the bulbs on the CC switch, and on the way, the wipers de-icer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, replacing the bulbs did not solve the problem, and the CC does not engage. How can I troubleshoot the problem source? How do I know if this is the lever, wiring or the module itself (whatever this one may be)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3328" LastEditorUserId="3328" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T19:09:51.113" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T19:09:51.113" Title="How to diagnose a Cruise Control system (Subaru Forester 2002)" Tags="|troubleshooting|subaru|cruise-control|forester|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2014-10-20T20:56:53.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put petrol down the spark plug hole making the bore wet with gasoline which helps move the piston faster will take 10 pulls after to first get running but will fire straight after tht every time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a motorbike mechanic &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7281" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T20:56:53.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2252" CreationDate="2014-10-20T21:58:20.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following was suggested by someone else on another website and worked for me!!  After being towed several times, now I just pull the relay out and plug it back in.  Takes only a minute or two and I have done it about 10 times now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the vehicle doesn't start, I simply go to the fuse panel under the steering wheel and remove the relay labeled &quot;alternator.&quot; I then plug it back in (a hard reset) and the car starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7282" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T21:58:20.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2014-10-20T22:32:46.860" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bad idea for several reasons. First, you run the risk of a runaway car. Second, you risk damaging your transmission, which could cause the runaway car in the first place. Thirdly, in newer fuel injected cars, you can actually get worse gas mileage. Let me explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As stated before, by not having it in gear, you run the risk of your car getting away from you. You might have to entirely rely on your brakes to slow your vehicle down. While this may not seem like a very likely thing, using your brakes too much down hill will cause extreme heat to build which could cause a reduction in brake effectiveness, which might not allow you to slow your vehicle after a point. Using your engine/transmission as an engine brake will alleviate some of the creation of some of this heat, which will allow your brakes to work more efficiently when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After running downhill without your transmission in gear, you put it back into gear. By dropping it into gear at speed, you are putting a lot of stress onto your transmission as it is forced to bring the torque converter and engine up to speed quickly. Transmissions are only made to withstand so much torque before they fail. Even if you don't exceed this theoretical maximum, you are still dropping a great deal of torque back through the transmission. This has an accumulating effect. Noted race car driver/designer, Carrol Smith, wrote a book called &lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt;. Chapter seven is entitled, &quot;Metal Fatigue - or Why Things Break&quot;. It reads: &lt;code&gt;&quot;... under repeated (cyclic as opposed to continuous) stress, the capacity of a metal to withstand stress gradually diminishes and, in most cases, cannot be restored. Metals which are subjected to fluctuating loads can and do break after a finite number of load cycles (or, more accurately, stress cycles) in which the loads applied and the resultant stresses imposed are always below the ultimate strength of the metal. This type of failure is termed 'fatigue failure'.&quot;&lt;/code&gt; He states at lower stress levels, things can be made to last indefinitely, but when you start putting those higher loads on the parts, they &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; break sooner. It is not linear in nature, either, the higher loads you force upon it, the sooner it will happen. By dropping it back into gear from neutral, you are putting these &quot;higher stress levels&quot; through the hard parts of your transmission, introducing the stress that would not otherwise be there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Within the computer of fuel injected cars, there is a table which is read when the throttle position sensor reads that the throttle is closed (or that the gas pedal is not depressed) and yet the engine is still going at an RPM above idle (this is a simplistic way of looking at it, but basically the way it is). When it reaches this predetermined state, it will drop the injector open time to zero, meaning that no gas will be flowing into the engine. While this period of time is probably not very long, your engine will still use more gas by idling while you have it in neutral than having it in gear and allowing it to attain this state. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T22:32:46.860" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T23:35:58.247" Score="4" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I knew I had a minor vacuum leak, but it got worse all of sudden while at a stoplight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to get through to the next block, the engine started to knock. (My guess is preignition thanks to the air/fuel ratio being off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I turn it on in neutral, the idle is intermittent and sometimes turns off but there is no sign of knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First gear, however, is a no go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car did have a vacum leak (which the mechanic fixed), but it came back again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Was wondering why did this leak come back again?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there another reason for it occurring?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why is it sometimes better when the engine is started cold? (Tighter rubber?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Furthermore, is there any other inspection I should do because of the knock?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no check engine lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6941" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T22:49:55.000" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T22:49:55.000" Title="1991 BMW E30 - knocking when put into 1st" Tags="|fuel-system|troubleshooting|bmw|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T02:40:56.903" Score="1" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Chrysler GT, PT Cruiser with less then 60000 miles. It is a four cylinder 2.4L, that is turbo charged, and is automatic. I had a hole in the over flow tank and had it replaced with a new one. When I got it back from my mechanic it seemed ok. About a week later I took the radiator cap off and found a light brown milky substance in the radiator. No water in the engine oil. The temperature gauge never showed that the car ever got hot. It did however spray water all over the engine from the broken over flow tank. When I took it to the mechanic approx. 4 miles away. &#xA;Any idea were the oil is coming from?  The water in the radiator is dark metallic brown in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7284" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:48:04.370" Title="Oil in the cooling system" Tags="|cooling-system|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12708" CreationDate="2014-10-21T04:01:47.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for a Dr.Vinyl franchise in your area. We used to use them all the time when I worked at a GMC dealer. They were very good and could match most any color and grain pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7285" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T04:01:47.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T07:48:56.400" Score="2" ViewCount="31427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2012 Ford Figo diesel.I recently got the work done for clutch plate and wheel bearing.&#xA;Now the car is not starting itself. I got it checked by a local mechanic also he said everything is fine except that diesel is not coming into the engine.&#xA;The oil input pipe in engine is not getting the required fuel because of which it is not starting. Can you please help me out on the issue and possible reasons why fuel is not coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7288" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T09:42:51.977" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:27:48.927" Title="Ford Figo starting problem" Tags="|ford|starting|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12834" CreationDate="2014-10-21T09:53:49.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lack of fuel getting to the engine can be one of several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fuel in the tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocked fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocked fuel line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocked tank inlet vent (if air can't get into the tank, fuel can't get out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airlock in the fuel lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have more than one pump and/or filter, as some diesel cars have a low-pressure pump in the tank and a high-pressure one near the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of blockages is flakes of dirt, sediment or rust from the bottom of the tank - do you often run the fuel level very low? It's always best not to let the level run &quot;into the red&quot;, as sucking the fuel from the bottom of the tank will pick up sediment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the filler cap while listening for any signs of air inrush (a blocked vent would cause a vacuum in the tank). Check the lines underneath for any signs of damage, corrosion or perishing. Inspect the filter(s), and try to re-prime the pump - an easy job on old-fashioned Bosch fuel pumps, but probably harder on a modern Ford. If they are electric pumps, listen for them priming when you switch on the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T09:53:49.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12601" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:08:17.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a chance that your belt had some offset (1 tooth for example) and your exhaust valve was opening earlier/later. Now your belt is ok and sounds different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:08:17.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T16:28:53.410" Score="1" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the O2 sensor located on a 97 Geo Metro (4 cylinder)? I have looked at the whole exhaust system. The check engine light is on, and the code indicates that the sensor is defective. I'd like to change the sensor to see if the light goes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7291" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T18:30:52.120" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:50:18.813" Title="Location of O2 sensor on '97 Geo Metro" Tags="|o2-sensor|geo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12878" CreationDate="2014-10-21T18:59:17.317" Score="1" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Mazda-323-MX-3-626-MX-6-Millenia-Prot%C3%A9g%C3%A9-1990-1998-and-Ford-Probe-1993-1997/ELECTRONIC-ENGINE-CONTROLS/Water-Thermosensor-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f80cb0ee6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coolant temp sensor&lt;/a&gt; in my Manual 97 Mazda Lantis 323 1.8L DOHC 16 Valve BP , which &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12788/mazda-323-plugged-in-coolant-temp-sensor-now-car-wont-start&quot;&gt;had been malfunctioning&lt;/a&gt; and realized that something else seems to be responsible for reporting the engine temperature to the dashboard and turning the radiator fan on and off.  I can't seem to figure out what it is though - and the previous owner told me that a mechanic he had taken it to had jerry rigged something so that the fan would stay on all the time - not sure why - but it doesn't seem to be coming on now.  The dash display also sometimes reports the engine as being overheating when it's not actually hot.  The temp continues to be reported even when the coolant temp sensor is disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this electrical diagram for the car, but I don't really know how to read it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfNGl.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T18:05:18.530" Title="97 Mazda: Are there Two Heat Sensors?" Tags="|radiator|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:25:21.433" Score="1" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Citroën C2 VTR won't start after turning the key. It's making a click sound. This only started happening when I put a subwoofer in my car.   Can you tell me what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7292" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T16:37:48.047" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T16:37:48.047" Title="My Citroën C2 VTR won't start after putting a subwoofer in it" Tags="|electrical|audio|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12080" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:30:27.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it sounds like idle control valve I had same  problem on my Peugeot 206 gti when I started engine , it would cut out and I would need to turn over with accelerator. I would hold revs at 1000-1100 until warm after this would drive phone  but very lumpy when at roundabouts etc but would cut out 4/10 ten times &#xA;cheers spence &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7293" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T19:30:27.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T20:35:54.880" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Civic. I bought it almost 2 years ago at just over 100,000 miles. It now has almost 116,000 miles and when I took it into my mechanic for a failed sensor replacement he told me they were hearing an odd sound coming from under the timing belt cover. The timing belt was last replaced by the previous owners 4/1/08 at approximately 70,000 miles. The owners manual says to replace every 110,000 miles or 7 years whichever comes first. I live in Southern California so there isn't really any extreme weather to factor in. I would like to know how likely it is that it needs replacing because although this mechanic has a good reputation for being pretty honest about what needs doing versus what is an optional repair, this doesn't seem right that it should need replacing. Any advice would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7294" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:03:06.710" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T16:49:52.577" Title="2001 Honda Civic timing belt assembly repair question" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12840" CreationDate="2014-10-21T21:27:54.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your sub-woofer has put a constant drain on the battery and is using up all the power. If you didn't do it, you should have hooked it up through switched power and run the power through the appropriate sized relay switch. This will ensure you don't get a current drain when the vehicle is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did do that, it still sounds like you have a constant drain on the battery. The battery may be used up as well and not charging like it should. Either way, the battery is dead by your description. You can try charging it disconnected from the vehicle, but I would suspect you'll run into the same situation if it does charge. If it doesn't take a charge, you'll likely need to change out the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:27:54.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12842" CreationDate="2014-10-21T21:33:25.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to know how likely it is that it needs replacing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is completely possible that you have a timing belt issue after only 46k miles (and almost 7 years); I believe that is what you are asking. That being said, if your car is currently running, your timing belt is intact and working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing belts are part of a routine maintenance and don't &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to be replaced unless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;approach mfg suggest replacement date&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look like they need replacing after visual inspection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacing another part in timing belt assembly (optional but recommend considering they cost about $40)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious how he could tell the timing belt needed replacement; did he visually inspect the belt or check the timing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he heard a noise, I am guessing he recognized it and is thinking perhaps a pulley, tensioner or something else inside the assembly needs replacing. Before I committed to that repair I would verify that the other belts/pullers were not the culprit, but I am sure he knows what he doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doubting your mechanics honesty, I would take it to another mechanic to verify the repair is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:33:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12838" CreationDate="2014-10-21T21:50:18.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which sensor does the code say is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have 2 oxygen sensors, one before the catalytic convertor and one after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to check everywhere from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. I don't specifically where the o2 sensor are in your model, but check the cat itself as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:50:18.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T22:25:44.567" Score="3" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2007 MINI Cooper 8/27/14. On 9/9, as I drove to work, I noticed smoke coming from the back &amp;amp; front of the car. When I drove home late that night, the car was not smoking. After that time the car would smoke if I drove it longer distances. I have been told that oil is leaking from the vacuum pump &amp;amp; full flow oil filter seals onto the exhaust pipe. Why would the car only smoke on slightly longer drives rather than constantly if the oil is leaking onto the exhaust pipe? Wouldn't it leak whenever I drive and so smoke whenever I drive? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7295" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T22:56:53.050" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T09:51:18.200" Title="MINI Cooper Oil Leak" Tags="|oil|exhaust|leak|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-22T01:32:48.200" Score="1" ViewCount="11335" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car radiator fan keeps on working right after shutting down my car, which is strange and never happened before. I suspected the temperature sensor, but through the OBD II kit, I am able to read around 85 degrees variating which is definitely normal, and no fault code. Do you have any idea what it can be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a Hyundai Accent 2002 GL 1.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7297" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T21:26:55.630" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T21:26:55.630" Title="My radiator fan keeps on right after shutting off the car (Hyundai Accent 2002 GL 1.6)" Tags="|coolant|radiator|hyundai|sensor|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7929" CreationDate="2014-10-22T01:36:54.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you might need to check the relays in the fuse box, without forgetting the fuel regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7297" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T01:36:54.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2014-10-22T02:53:32.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps because your exhaust pipe is hotter when it runs longer, and is cold enough when not running much to burn the oil. Anyways you could buy a special paste to fill-block the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7297" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T02:53:32.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12847" CreationDate="2014-10-22T12:35:44.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal behavior for some vehicles. They utilize the fan to further cool the system after engine shut down (even though it does not further circulate the coolant). This is something I would not be worried about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T12:35:44.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-22T15:55:17.300" Score="3" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard a loud pop, and now the brake pedal has no resistance.  There are no leaks in the system. I tried a master cylinder and bleeding the brakes.  Still the pedal goes down easy and comes up slow.  There is no vac booster on this system.  I'm not sure how it works.  The vehicle is a 2003 Chevy Express van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7300" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T18:26:10.800" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T10:51:40.840" Title="No resistance when depressing brakes with no leaks in system" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|express-van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-10-23T05:50:36.900" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clutches squeak when it gets hot. It happens to all cars I promise. A clutch will let you know when it's bad it's simple as turning on the car and put it in first gear and let go of the clutch  do this 3 times to make sure you get a legitimate reading or feeling of the car if the clutch is bad the car will stay on if it grips the car will turn off. Also drive on first gear and if the car revs up too high and your not going anyware as fast as your rps shoot up the clutch is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7306" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T05:50:36.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T08:38:56.020" Score="4" ViewCount="11107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual 1997 Nissan Pathfinder which has ran great for a long, long time.  The only issues I have had are with the clutch, starter and valve cover gasket.  The last problem was a few months ago and that was an oil leak caused by a a bad gasket.  Fixed it without incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, I was driving down the road going about 25 mph.  Then my car slowed down.  I watched as my RPM went to 0 and she was dead!  At first I thought I let the clutch slip, so while rolling, I put her in first and popped the clutch (a trick that usually works) and I got nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped and tried to start her once, she was cranking but wouldn't roll over.  I then noticed I was low on gas, pretty close to E.  I grabbed enough gas to bring me to a quarter tank, still wasn't getting anything.  Not sure if it matters, but I have moved to an area that allows me to do most commutes via bike so I only drive about once a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, when she died, it felt kind of like what I remembered when my old car's alternator went out so I grabbed my multimeter and checked the battery, over 12 volts so I think I am safe in assuming my battery/alternator are okay.  Next I pulled the hose off of the exiting end of my fuel pump and turned the key... fuel shot out.  Now I know this doesn't mean that my fuel pressure is correct, but I take this as a pretty good indication that my pump/filter are working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to spark... it's cold and raining like crazy here so I didn't stay out for long, but I did shove a screw driver into the boot and held it close to ground.  I got no spark.  It was definitely a quick and not very thorough test so I will check again tomorrow.  If I don't get spark out of any of the wires, I swill probably move on to checking the ignition coil.  It just seems very strange that it would die in the middle of driving and not throw a code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?  I am fortunate in that I have another vehicle, but I like this one much much more and she has normally been more reliable.  Any help is greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is not my fuel pump.  I checked spark again with a proper tester and got nothing from all 6.  I pulled the distributor cap off and had my girlfriend try to start her.... The rotor didn't move one bit.  My heart sank.  I immediately checked to make sure my crankshaft was spinning... No problem there.  To confirm my fear of a snapped timing belt, I yanked off one of the valve covers and had her start again, rockers didn't move one bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know the problem, unless someone else has compelling evidence as to why I shouldn't continue down this path.  The timing belt is tucked pretty deep and will require quite a bit of work just to confirm it is the problem, although given the symptoms, it makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sad thing is my motor is an interference motor so after I spend all that time and money, I still might have bent a valve (in which case, hit me up for Pathfinder parts!!!).  I'll get her opened up this weekend to get a better idea, but I am pretty sure I have solved this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit #2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was definitely my timing belt, I don't think it has ever been changed.  It looked like one tooth wore down and finally gave way.  I am actually shocked that it didn't jump prior to breaking.  It took me a good 12 hours to complete on the side of the road in a storm.  I busted out my deep sea fishing gear and went to town on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To those who have an interference motor like me, don't just give up in fear of a bent valve.  It's 30 bucks and a weekend's worth of work (assuming you have the proper tools).  She started up just fine once I got her put back together and that was after multiple cranks before I knew it was the belt (big no no when the belt is off), so you may get lucky too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got up to about 30 mph on my home, I'll test it more when I wake up.  For now, I would say the problem is solved, at least my original issue anyway... Now whether or not she'll hold up remains to be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7308" LastEditorUserId="7308" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T13:13:13.570" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T13:35:40.153" Title="Nissan Pathfinder died and won't start, no check engine light! Crank/No Start" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T09:38:56.290" Score="3" ViewCount="5030" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Bike has rear Suspension 3 Step Spring Loaded Hydraulic Shock Absorber &amp;amp; Bike total Weight (kgs) is 122 and its around 3yrs over 90000km run. i didn't feel comfort with suspension as now a days as it brings Back pain. I given my bike to friends - they also felt same problem. I checked with Honda Service center, they said suspension &amp;amp; Shock absorber is ok, i can change after 10000Km. But it doesnt solve my purpose and it getting worst now a days. kindly suggest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is it possible to fit some other Bikes Damper(complete set) like Pulsar 150cc (weight 144kg),... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T10:31:57.543" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T13:57:47.823" Title="How to Improve Suspension on my bike Honda Shine" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|suspension|shine-mc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T10:12:28.017" Score="4" ViewCount="6222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to change/modify the Headlight bulb. kindly suggest. My bike (Honda Shine) has 12V 3AH(MF) Battery &amp;amp; Head Lamp 12V 35W/35W halogen bulb. In rainy season &amp;amp; city Bye-pass roads the visibility is less. So i adjusted the angle its quite better comparability earlier. kindly suggest to improve more intensity(visibility). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shall i change the halogen bulb color(yellow) to Blue-white...which is available in same 35w range philips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it possible to  replace it with a 60/55w halogen bulb. (color white)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it possible to replace it with Xenon HID kits?? kindly suggest suitable one with complete accessories to buy like Do I need to install a relay, or rectifier and new wires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T10:31:39.330" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T17:27:09.607" Title="Head Lamp on Honda Shine" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|shine-mc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T12:52:56.400" Score="7" ViewCount="28619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed there is a red circle showing up underneath my &quot;N&quot; on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dot is not flashing and has remained on for last couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't figure out what it is from Google/manual.   Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Po1M.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7312" LastEditorUserId="7312" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T14:37:17.527" LastActivityDate="2023-07-14T14:04:05.237" Title="Red dot under Neutral symbol on 2012 Dodge Caravan" Tags="|dodge|indicators|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12860" CreationDate="2014-10-23T14:35:47.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a copy of the owner's manual &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dodge.com/download/pdf/manuals/2012-Grand_Caravan-OM-3rd.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Pages 284-285 have a diagram of the instrument cluster, where this light appears as #17.  Page 294 says that this is the &lt;strong&gt;Vehicle Security Light&lt;/strong&gt; and explains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and then will flash slowly&#xA;  until the vehicle is disarmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T14:35:47.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T16:26:54.473" Score="3" ViewCount="1947" Body="&lt;p&gt;my pads have about 25% life left, I am going to replace them soon and Im wondering, should I replace my rotors as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im feeling a very slight pulsation at 70+ MPH (when braking only). But braking at lower speeds or 30MPH or 50MPH the pulsation is non-existent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pads/rotors were budget house brand and the cheapest available products from NAPA auto-parts. If i were to upgrade to higher quality rotors would there be any real difference than me machining/shaving the rotors i have now? I believe the rotors to be in good condition and the slight pulsation I presume would disappear after a fine machining I'm just curious if upgrading to better rotors would give any real increase in braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7314" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T18:18:04.927" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T20:46:09.290" Title="Slight pulsation from brakes at 70+ MPH (Replace rotors?)" Tags="|brake-rotor|braking|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2014-10-23T16:41:02.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really aren't going to &quot;upgrade&quot; to higher quality brake rotors, unless you spring for some carbon fiber ones, but those are pretty much for performance and race cars. For average every day use, you can buy the cheaper rotors and have no worries about them. They will last for as long as you need them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question, considering the cost of new rotors versus the price of getting rotors machined, it makes sense to buy the new rotors. In most cases, the new rotors will only cost you a few dollars more. It makes sense economically if you consider your time spent getting the old rotors to the a shop to get them turned, then waiting on the job to be done or expense of driving a car home, then having to come back and get them. By purchasing the new rotors, you do it all on your time. Many still choose to get the old ones resurfaced and this is not a bad option as long as the old rotors are thick enough to be within manufacturer specification. Along with what I said, though, I almost always replace the rotors at the same time as the pads to alleviate any bad situations which may arise and to save myself some time in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do purchase new rotors, ensure you use some brake cleaner and clean off the surface areas of its protective coating. If you don't, your new brake pads will get gummed up with the stuff and not work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you purchase new or resurface your old rotors, ensure you bed the new brakes properly. This was covered extensively in covered by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Centric Parts here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T16:41:02.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12867" CreationDate="2014-10-23T21:56:22.810" Score="1" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hereandnow.wbur.org/2014/10/21/exploding-airbag-recall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hereandnow.wbur.org/2014/10/21/exploding-airbag-recall&lt;/a&gt; said Mazda 3 (2009) is among the models affected by the recent recall for possible airbag explosion issue.  I called my maintainance company and they said I don't have a recall.  Should I believe them? How to find out if my model is affected or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2142" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T00:03:21.567" Title="Is all Mazda 3 (2009) affected by the recent recall for possible airbag explosion issue?" Tags="|mazda|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12866" CreationDate="2014-10-24T00:03:21.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recall is not specific to certain models, it's specific to specific production runs of cars which were built using the defective components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out if your specific car has any recalls currently, you can use the Mazda web site to look for your vehicle's VIN. The VIN should be on your car's registration, and can also be found below the driver side corner of the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayRecallOwners.action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayRecallOwners.action&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your maintenance company probably used this tool to check the status of your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T00:03:21.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2014-10-24T01:19:43.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the factors that influence the cost of replacement rotors is mass. Basically we are talking weight. Over the last couple of decades rotors have gotten cheaper and lighter. The rotor is lighter because it has less material. I buy the heaviest rotors I can get the specs on. This was actually part of a marketing campaign by NAPA  several years ago. They had cutaway rotors on the counter to show how much thicker and heavier their rotor was. In my experience rotors of the 60's and 70's would last the life of the car as long as the pads didn't wear to the point of metal to metal contact. In many cases the same rotor was used in nine passenger wagons (impala wagon) that they used in compact cars (Novas). In most cases they were larger than they needed to be.  They weighed a lot.  They were made with some extra material. Granted cars were worn out at 120,000 miles but you could get  at least one and sometimes two resurfacings out of a rotor. Any rotors I have had turned recently seem to warp before the pads are at 50%. Part of the reason is that pads are smaller and more aggressive so they generate more heat and wear the rotor surface. This heat is what causes the rotor to warp. The thinner the rotor, the easier they warp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T01:19:43.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-24T03:37:42.227" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Dodge Charger 2007 model, ran 145000kms. Suddenly I found temperature of radiator comes high and starts overflowing radiator fluid, which is mixed with oil. Car is in running condition, but if we start the engine after 5 mins, the temperature rises again. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7316" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T11:34:47.603" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:34:47.603" Title="Radiator overflow, temperature increase, and radiator contains oily fluid" Tags="|dodge|radiator|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2014-10-24T07:22:48.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely problem is a stuck thermostat and a blown headgasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T07:22:48.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12874" CreationDate="2014-10-24T16:41:58.270" Score="9" ViewCount="3526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have noticed cars in parking lots with their reverse lights on even when the driver is not behind the wheel. I stop to let the drivers back out, and then realize they have no such intention. I don't know what that signal is telling me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cars with this feature, in what situations do the reverse lights come on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of this feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this feature been implemented pursuant to a government regulation, a recommendation from an industry body, or some other published source? (I have searched, but found nothing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a white paper or something for this feature, does it discuss the possibility that drivers may begin to ignore reverse lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7322" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T08:08:57.697" Title="What are reverse lights used for besides showing intention to reverse?" Tags="|lights|safety|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12873" CreationDate="2014-10-24T16:47:51.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are being used as approach lights. When someone unlocks their car with the remote the car turns on lights around the car. I think the idea is to light up the ground around the car for you to better see where you are stepping and maybe for security. Some cars turn on the headlights, interior lights, parking lights etc. You point does make turning on the back up lights for this seem like a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T16:47:51.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15144" CreationDate="2014-10-24T18:57:45.433" Score="7" ViewCount="2454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old (1988) 8HP Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton engine (195422-0751-01) on a leaf blower with some problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After ~10 minutes of running okay, (choke open, 1/3 to 1/2 throttle), it starts to die, &lt;strong&gt;almost always due to being angled in any direction on a hill.&lt;/strong&gt; The only way to keep it from dying is to close the choke. After this period, I can try adjusting the carb mixture only to get it running another 3 minutes with 1/2 choke and 1/3 throttle. Letting it sit ~1 hr is the only guarantee it'll work for another 10 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've tried or replaced:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carb replaced with new from ebay. Adjusted mixture screws (per engine user manual's instructions -- 1.5 turns on main, 1 turn on idle) and readjusted for hours in order to get a mixture that lets it run for a few minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed fuel tank, outlet nozzle, and hose to clean and inspect. They're fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used new gas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced gas cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspected air filter and oiled pre-filter (per manual's instructions). They're fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested compression. Results consistently ~137 psi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seafoamed gas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's dying and I close the choke (to revive it), exhaust spits black smoke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When main jet is opened more than 2 turns (which the engine seems to need at the time to run), there's sometimes a few drops of fuel coming from the bottom of the carb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7323" LastEditorUserId="7323" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T23:12:15.357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:25:39.747" Title="Old Briggs Dies After Running / Tilt Kills" Tags="|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2014-10-24T21:06:34.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil and/or combustion residue in your coolant signifies a blown headgasket. Coupled with the overheating it sounds like your cooling system can't get up to pressure, again signifying a blown gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T21:06:34.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2014-10-24T21:40:29.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pulsating can be rotors or unbalanced wheel lug torque, among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The various &quot;grades&quot; of rotors that NAPA, et al. sell are all going to be about the same. Same with the pads. Most of the &quot;grading&quot; is marketing gimmicks, although with pads there can be some pros/cons with each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if they are still within spec after machining the rotors are fine to use. Getting a new pair to use while machining the old ones at your leisure is not a bad idea, just be sure to coat the old ones with WD-40 or something before storing them (and clean it off before installing!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T21:40:29.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12839" CreationDate="2014-10-24T21:44:56.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are usually at least two. The one listed there is for the ECU (and possibly cooling fan(s)). There should be another diagram for the accessory/dashboard electronics, and that will tell you the wire colors to look out for for the other sensor. The engine mechanical section might give you a diagram of where the sensors are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T21:44:56.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-25T23:27:17.983" Score="5" ViewCount="2256" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2006 Infiniti G35 would crank but not start after a transmission replacement.  I found 2 transmission codes.  U1000 which is a CAN bus code and P1815 which is the manual shifting code.  It is an automatic transmission with fairly low mileage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone know if it may need a TCM reprogram or why it doesn't start after the auto trans replacement?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T21:17:29.767" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T16:38:47.360" Title="Car cranks but will not start after transmission replacement" Tags="|automatic-transmission|infiniti|g35|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2014-10-25T23:35:40.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;does it feel like an abs pulsation??  but much more light?  sometimes a bad wheel sensor can cause the abs to pulsate during braking.  most likely it is a rotor that is slightly out of round that is much exagerated at high speeds.  i would check all wheel sensor readings with a diagnostic tool if the rotors are not out of round and with in spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T23:35:40.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12842" CreationDate="2014-10-25T23:40:15.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;he may be hearing one of your pulleys making a noise.  he may just want to replace the timing belt and waterpump while he has everything off.  it would save u money considering u dont have to pay for the labour to do it again.  but if u still have over 60000 miles to go i doubt u need one unless there are physical signs of damage or noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T23:40:15.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7429" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:13:17.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concerning your oil question - the best way to tell if you can delay your oil changes is to have the oil tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackstone-labs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blackstone-labs.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a great company to have it tested. They can do an analysis and tell you exactly how much impurities are in it and whether the oil still has more life in it or not. Again though, if your goal is just to save money, the extra $25 for the test might not be worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like everyone else said, you can't tell unless you test. The color of oil is no indication of whether you need it changed or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi_J4SZUlSo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi_J4SZUlSo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7329" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T01:13:17.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:25:32.863" Score="3" ViewCount="2407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a MK 1 Citi Golf Sport 1.6 Carb that has 523220 km. I recently flushed the cooling system and changed the coolant. After the flush the temperature showed above normal despite changing everything. I also replaced the thyristor and still the temperature gauge reads above normal 50%. The fan kicks in as normal and the car is not overheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a dry and wet pressure test done, compression good. There is no mixing of water and oil. I have changed the water pump, checked fuses, checked the instrument cluster and electrics, and all circuitry is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this so many times before and never had problems until now. What could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7330" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T11:36:02.287" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:48:48.280" Title="MK 1 citi sport temp gauge fault" Tags="|cooling-system|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12891" CreationDate="2014-10-26T05:17:38.370" Score="3" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Chevrolet Aveo that I bought new from the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was running errands around town and just as I was about the get on the highway to head home, the battery light and emergency brake light turned on. As I was driving home, the electrical components in the car started going out one-by-one. First the tachometer went to zero, then the fuel and temperature gauges, then the windshield wipers started moving slowly, the radio turned off, then all off the lights on the dash. Each one of these shut off 30-60 seconds after the one before it. As I was pulling off the highway and onto my street (which is a hill) the engine started losing power. I was able to crawl at a snail's pace about halfway to my house (50 meters) before the engine died. I put it in reverse and compression started it, put the emergency brake on and shifted to neutral. After I shifted it to neutral, some of the components in the car started turning back on and off and the RPM increased. After letting it sit for a few minutes I was able to crawl the rest of the way home (another 50 meters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting home I took my girlfriend's car back to town and got a multimeter. When I got home about 2 hours later I tested the battery with the engine off. It read 12.18 volts DC. To my surprise, when I turned the ignition the car started right up with no battery light and all the electrical components working. After about 20 seconds the electrical components started turning off. I was able to test the battery with the engine running and it jumped between 3-6 vdc for a few seconds before the car sputtered and shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking alternator or connection problem, but I really don't have much experience with this kind of thing. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7332" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T04:39:38.620" Title="2009 Aveo electrical problem" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2014-10-26T07:45:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When testing your battery, you must check the voltage across the actual battery posts. The posts are the lead posts coming out of the casing of the battery. Do not measure using the leads coming off of the battery. If, using the posts, your voltage is below 12.+ volts, and you have a known good voltmeter then you have a defective battery. If the voltage is at 12.+ volts across the posts, but very much lower on the cables as you have described, you have a cabling fault or shorting alternator. Ideally you should fully charge a battery 'off of the vehicle' before testing it to eliminate any effect from a fault that may have discharged it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T07:45:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2014-10-26T07:53:26.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would do is to have a scan performed on the vehicle. The probable faults to me from your question is that you may have changed parts, thyristor, that is not exactly the right one. They can come colour coded for differant temperature ranges. Other then that, because of the vehicles age a resistance is present in the temp gauge circuit. This may be in the wiring or the gauge assembly itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T07:53:26.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12873" CreationDate="2014-10-26T08:08:57.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are generally known as 'Welcome Home Lights'. They are used to illuminate the vehicle when you 'plip' it, perhaps in an unfamilar carpark. They also stay on after locking the vehicle to illuminate its parking area. Other drivers will know that poeple are on the ground around the vehicle, perhaps a small child. They have a 'turned on' period adjusted by the driver with dash buttons on thier display. Overall they are a worthwhile safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T08:08:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12852" CreationDate="2014-10-26T08:23:57.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point you make that there are 'no leaks' points to an internal system leak. The most common fault that you will find in this description is a brake hose fracture. The flexible brake hoses are made of an internal hose surrounded by an external hose. If the internal hose fractures, it allows the brake fluid to go between the inner and outer hoses when you press the brake. When you release the brake, the fluid returns into the inner hose - hence no extenal leak. Check each flexible hose individually with someone pumping the brake. Any 'ballooning' of any hose under pressure shows it as defective and must be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T08:23:57.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2014-10-26T08:43:06.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mini has an unusual set up on its oil filter element. If you look at the filter you will see one end has a rubber sealing on it, whilst the other end does not. When you fit the filter element, the rubber ended end must be on the outside, away from the engine and into the cap you take off to replace the element. If you dont know it, it is easy to think the rubber end goes towards the engine but it does not. Fitted the wrong way round it causes havoc with the oil pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T08:43:06.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12842" CreationDate="2014-10-26T09:01:34.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your cam/timing belt is disturbed by any other operation on the engine, it is Industry Standard Practice to replace it. Like the Actress said to the Bishop,&quot;Its not what you do, its the way that you do it.&quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T09:01:34.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2014-10-26T09:50:35.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This sounds like an alternator problem to me&lt;/strong&gt;. If you have the means, pull the alternator and take to an AutoZone, Pep Boys, or the like. They will test it for free for you. The reason I suggest an alternator, is this is typical behavior when the alternator is dieing, where your electrical components start shutting off as you are going along. Also, if the battery is good, you'll see where it will incur a &quot;rebound&quot; effect (the way I think of it anyway), where while you were using the vehicle, the voltage may drop down, but the once the vehicle is off, the battery voltage will rebound back up a ways. It isn't that it is recharged, just that it will recover some of its voltage after a large power draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to test this at home, the easiest way I have found to do it is to get the battery fully charged (13.1+ vdc). Start the engine and let it run. Keep the multi-meter on the battery posts and watch the voltage. You'll see the volts slowly sink down as the engine and accessories eat up the charge in the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T09:50:35.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23421" CreationDate="2014-10-26T12:40:26.417" Score="2" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear a crackling noise after I get to my biting point @ First Gear. I have heard of this noise before but not in all the cars. My car has only done 43000 miles to the clock and has a good condition. Although it's a 1.1L car (i.e. it's gonna move like a slug), the crackling noise is not a normal thing right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:59:19.283" Title="Crackling noise after first gear clutch" Tags="|clutch|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12857" CreationDate="2014-10-26T13:14:04.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was definitely my timing belt, I don't think it has ever been changed. It looked like one tooth wore down and finally gave way. I am actually shocked that it didn't jump prior to breaking. It took me a good 12 hours to complete on the side of the road in a storm. I busted out my deep sea fishing gear and went to town on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To those who have an interference motor like me, don't just give up in fear of a bent valve. It's 30 bucks and a weekend's worth of work (assuming you have the proper tools). She started up just fine once I got her put back together and that was after multiple cranks before I knew it was the belt (big no no when the belt is off), so you may get lucky too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got up to about 30 mph on my home, I'll test it more when I wake up. For now, I would say the problem is solved, at least my original issue anyway... Now whether or not she'll hold up remains to be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7308" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T13:35:40.153" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T13:35:40.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T02:24:57.660" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my car from a owner I noticed there was oil or what looks like oil in the coolant there is no coolant in oil and car doesn't over heat. It's a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am with 230,000 miles please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7335" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T13:38:17.107" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:38:17.107" Title="2001 Pontiac Grand Am - Oil in coolant" Tags="|oil|troubleshooting|coolant|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-10T20:01:34.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12935" CreationDate="2014-10-27T03:39:26.297" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed battery from 1997 Tacoma to replace dead battery in Sienna Van and took dead battery to repair shop for testing. Repair shop tested and charged the battery. Now Tacoma is using a fully charged battery. However the only thing that works are the headlights. Ignition is completely dead, the ignition doesn't even 'click' when cranked. The dome lights are dead. It's like no juice is coming from the battery to anything but the headlights. Windows won't roll up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible wrench in otherwise typical battery swap: After I removed the battery from the Tacoma to use in the Siennna. The windows were rolled down and the Tacoma had no power supply. I used jumper cables to connect from battery of Sienna and connected to battery terminals to Tacoma to provide power to roll up windows. This did not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose, I crosswired the jumper cables to roll up the windows, could I have done something to explain why truck does not crank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T02:09:41.263" Title="After swapping batteries, truck is really dead, except the headlights." Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12858" CreationDate="2014-10-27T13:21:34.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading the suspension to that of a heavier bike may not be such a good idea. The rear suspension of the bike would become stiffer and that will not solve your back-ache. A faulty suspension will cause back ache, yes. But in your case you confirmed it with the service center. The reasons for you back pain could be mainly because of the riding position on your bike. Try another bike such as a pulsar 150/180 and see if that gives you any pain. Karizma R offers a very upright sitting position which could be very comfortable for you. My suggestion would then again be that upgrading to stiffer will not solve back aches. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:21:34.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T16:05:13.963" Score="4" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does my clutch drop to the floor of my 93 ford escort as soon as I start to apply pressure on my brakes. I already changed out my master cylinder and bled the brakes. Could it have anything to do with my brake booster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7339" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T21:12:35.863" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T21:00:55.150" Title="Clutch drops to the floor when I start to apply the brakes" Tags="|ford|brakes|clutch|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T20:29:20.787" Score="0" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda it has a standard 4cyl b21a1 1990 Honda prelude (should have specified was in a rush) I recently changed the head gasket(it went bad would puff out white smoke when I cranked on the key and even in the cold of night my radiator hose would be pressurized without driving or even starting it).  a fairly simple operation but when I went to start it had lacked power, I would go just as fast if I had the pedal a quarter of the way down as I would with it being full throttle but it was still functional and I was content with it. The big issue is, recently while I was coasting along I noticed my car would drive itself it felt as I had just clicked on the cruise control, I was able to work around it because of my manual but when in gear it will take off especially when u are in the lower gears. and when I sipped it into neutral it would rev up at a constant rate from 1.0k-2.8k being very loud and burning tons of gas in sure. this just happened as I was driving down the road from my slow but still running vehicle im. When I go to start it it instantly shoots up to 3k rpms then jumps between the 1-2.8rpms again and it is constant. Anyone got a good guess? it also smells very rich in gas but my ignition timing was spot on.  I changed the head gasket it went bad would puff out white smoke when I cranked on the key and even in the cold of night my radiator hose would be pressurized without driving or even starting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7340" LastEditorUserId="7340" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T01:51:02.597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T19:06:37.067" Title="Surging idles - Anyonebody?Honda()" Tags="|honda|repair|surging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T21:34:44.227" Score="5" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the UK and we don't usually have a lot of snowfall. But sometimes the roads can be a little rough. I drive a 1.2L Mitsubishi Colt CZI and I haven't put the winter tyres yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is the necessity of it. If I am driving such a small car and the weather is mostly like freezing winter with no guarateed hailing/snowing, do I really need to spend a fortune and get the tyres replaced for 5-6 months? I know that I need to probably drive a lot slower and using higher gear than normal driving to avoid any sudden loss of steering control (i.e. understeer/oversteer etc.). But given the car size I have, should it matter? Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T00:05:14.473" Title="Winter tyres - how necessary are they?" Tags="|tires|mitsubishi|winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2014-10-28T00:51:36.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live here in the States, we usually have winter snows which fall every year. Not a great amount, but enough to wreak havoc upon the locals. We utilaize good all-season radials year round with no ill effect. Most new cars here tend to come with all-season radials (unless it's a specialty vehicle). These types of tires are just as described and can be used year round without issue. Like always, you need to drive to the conditions of the road, but there should be no real need to put winter tires on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T00:51:36.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2014-10-28T01:19:55.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1289/57&quot;&gt;The short answer is that it depends.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive around in what is likely a similar climate: the winters are chilly but huge snows are unlikely.  Instead, we will often get between a light dusting and an inch of snow.  In that sort of weather, all weather tires have suited me fine.  They do not perform as well in the snow as dedicated snow tires (as I said in the previous answer) but they're certainly sufficient for driving to and from work with sensible caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you only have summer tires (i.e., tires that have marginal performance in the rain and terrible performance in the snow) then, yes, you do need to change your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Responding to the comment below:&lt;/em&gt; just remember, snow tires are worse than all-season tires in &lt;em&gt;every possible way&lt;/em&gt; other than cold weather &amp;amp; snow performance.  This includes noise, handling and ride quality.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T00:05:14.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T02:57:29.343" Score="1" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 chev pick up battery drains while not running. Can park at night and turn everything off. When I try to start it in morning battery is dead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7345" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T19:11:55.623" Title="battery dies while truck not running" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1718" CreationDate="2014-10-28T03:33:22.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know but my mothers 99 accord had the same darn thing wrong. i cleaned out her throttle body twice and she runs fine now..  has an internal fuel filter.. so that couldn't be helped.. only thing left for me to do was clean out the throttle body and or replace the egr..  or replace fuel pump..  I went with the throttle body first to avoid spending 100.00 for a fuel pump and almost that for the egr .. she is happy with the results for the past week no issues.. if this problem repeats the next step I will take is the egr from a used car, if that holds for 3 - 6 months we will purchase a new one.. if not the issue we will purchase a fuel pump new.. I have learned it is best to go to the u pull it place and get these costly sensors &quot;used&quot; to validate a problem rather then spend hundreds on new parts..I work too hard for my money to throw it out the window..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7346" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T03:33:22.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12905" CreationDate="2014-10-28T08:47:54.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All sorts of things can cause this, but they all come down to current draw. Something is drawing power from your battery. It could be as simple as lights or the stereo being left on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even interior lights will drain a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your first check should be simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are certain there is nothing on, your next step should be to check for unwanted current flow; short circuits, dodgy wiring etc. - and this is best done by a qualified electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T08:47:54.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12047" CreationDate="2014-10-28T09:37:11.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out what it is. It controls the air recirculation flap to the cabin. Nothing to do with the engine at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just above the input and output pipes to the heater core on the firewall is a little plastic nozzle. This is what this actuator is supposed to be connected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T09:37:11.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12912" CreationDate="2014-10-28T13:20:34.327" Score="16" ViewCount="267472" Body="&lt;p&gt;All over my long driver career, I had 4 cars (5 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always compare my fuel consumption with other people who have the same car. 3 times out of 4, I found out that my cars were consuming more fuel then others (I like buying car in poor condition since they cost nothing and I repair them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it might be interesting to list here what can cause a car to consume more fuel (not specific to a brand) as I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who wonder about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I actually drive a Saturn SL1 1998 which consume &lt;strong&gt;12 liters per 100km&lt;/strong&gt; which I find a lot for a &lt;strong&gt;1.9 liters 4 cylinders&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tought it might be :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel injector leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old tire &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enought motor oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel line leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I checked all of this and it seems fine. I also changed my tire for winter's one and still the same consumption, any other idea ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it would be interesting when listing an Idea to describe how it can influence the fuel consumption and also if this could make a &quot;noticeable&quot; difference or not ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastEditorUserId="6919" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T12:44:22.770" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T12:44:22.770" Title="What can cause a car to consume more fuel?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-28T13:53:35.403" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are driving a Saturn S-Series (My car for the last 8 years, which I am very happy to have.) You should definitely have much higher fuel economy. (19.6mpg is what you have. 33+mpg is easily achieved.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would hardly be surprised if it is the ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor.) These plastic temperature gauges fail with about 100% certainty. This will lower your fuel economy because the engine computer does not think the engine has warmed up, leaving the computer running in safe fuel-rich &quot;open-loop&quot; mode, despite the engine being warm. This is usually the first issue checked on these cars. I had the same problem. The new brass ECTS is about $12 from your local auto parts dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the ECTS reading wrong, your thermostat may have failed open, leading the engine to not computer warm up either. This does not explain 19.6 as would the ECTS. The thermostat failed open would cause you to lose about 1-2mpg. The fuel loss due to an open thermostat is due to poor combustion efficiency. (i.e. Carnot's theorem: efficiency = 1-Tcold/Thot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There of course can be many other issues, including your driving style, but I would start with the cooling system. I highly recommend you join the SaturnFans.com message board. All major issues with this vehicle are heavily documented, including a series of Youtube videos. These cars are very easy to work on. In fact, I will point you towards the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177672&quot;&gt;New and Returning users checklist.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Always check the oil weekly or when you add fuel! These engines are notorious for burning oil, due to a bad oil control ring design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastEditorUserId="7349" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T14:47:44.317" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T14:47:44.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-28T14:50:11.940" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common causes (aside from poor driving habits) are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad sparkplugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low octane fuel* &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;malfunctioning coolant temperature sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blocked catalytic converter(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;malfunctioning MAP/MAF sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;driving with the parking brake engaged**&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having aftermarket wings on the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyres not inflated to the recommended pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and a few others I can't remember&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Cars designed for low octane fuel won't benefit from high octane fuel, but cars designed for high octane fuel will perform poorly on lower octanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Usually not because you forgot to release the parking brake, but because it may become stuck. Especially on cars with rear drum brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T11:38:52.577" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:38:52.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12905" CreationDate="2014-10-28T19:11:55.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car and disconnect the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait (and sleep). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next morning: Reconnect the battery. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is dead then you got a problem with the battery. If not you have something which drains it overnight. Which leads to the next step: Finding out which part causes the drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this either disconnect some of the fuses during the night until the drain stops.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or put something in between the battery and the car and measure the current flow. (e.g. a lamp, or a multimeter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WARNING: Do not try to start the car or use the headlights in the latter case. Those will draw a lot of current and you will need a new multimeter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T19:11:55.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:01:42.183" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to send my 2001 Pontiac Grand prix  to a mechanic to fix some stuff. What do u recommend to change the oil before or after that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7351" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:29:29.980" Title="pontiac oil change before or after repairing the car" Tags="|oil-change|pontiac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:21:14.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are having engine work done (where it has to be torn down or taken apart) have the shop do the oil change in conjunction with the maintenance. I suggest this because they may get contaminants into the oil from the work, such as antifreeze or gasket residue. If it is just other maintenance being done, such as suspension work, it really doesn't make a difference. Get it done when it's most convenient for you, or have the shop do it for you while the other work is getting done. This is more of a preference thing than anything else. If you do have the shop do the work, ensure you give them specifications for oil and filter (brand) if this matters to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T21:21:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-28T22:13:15.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where you drive your car has a significant impact on the fuel economy.  If you drive mostly on highways and other roads with high speed limits and no stop signs or stop lights you will have a high fuel economy, while if you mostly engage in &quot;city driving&quot;, that is, roads with lots of stop signs, stop lights, and heavy traffic, you will have a lower fuel economy.  My 2010 Jetta used to get 30 mpg where I used to live (where it was primarily driven on highways and wide, clear surface streets) but I now live in a place that has notoriously poorly designed roads and even the highways have traffic lights and I am getting 20 mpg or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5114" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T22:13:15.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T23:41:12.753" Score="0" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my 98 1.6 sohc honda civic . There seems to be grey sludge that looks just like cement in the water and radiator but the car is not over heating and seems to be running perfect . Would any 1 know the cause and how I could prevent it? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7353" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:02:46.067" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:02:46.067" Title="98 honda civic radiator problem" Tags="|honda|civic|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12917" CreationDate="2014-10-29T00:11:43.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although more than one possibility exists, grey sludge could be oil or combustion gases in the coolant. This would be due to a leak in the head gasket. To learn more, you can try observing the coolant expansion tank with the cap off while the engine is running. Be sure to start from a cold engine so you do not overheat the engine, and don't run the engine for very long. If you see bubbles, this could mean combustion gases, and possibly oil, are entering from the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this can be prevented any way besides regular maintenance. If it is indeed the head gasket, that is a very involved repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T00:11:43.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12920" CreationDate="2014-10-29T00:22:57.833" Score="4" ViewCount="23145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see a &quot;DO NOT PUSH&quot; sign on the back of trucks (I believe they have all been large semi-trailer dump trucks). I've even seen &quot;YOU PUSH IT YOU OWN IT&quot; signs on a few. This raises two questions for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would someone want to push on the back of a truck?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would the truck owner NOT want someone to push on the back of his truck?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just to be clear: I'm assuming that the &quot;push&quot;ing would be done by another truck, NOT by a person leaning on the back.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I just saw a &quot;DO NOT PUSH&quot; sign on a non-semi dump truck: no hitch involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastEditorUserId="7354" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T18:45:38.663" LastActivityDate="2021-11-10T16:09:24.057" Title="Why is there a &quot;DO NOT PUSH&quot; sign on the back of some trucks?" Tags="|truck|trailer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12919" CreationDate="2014-10-29T01:39:05.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the dump box gets pushed on by a truck or an end loader or whatever, it can cause damage to the box, possibly not even allowing it to dump again. The rear door, while seeming stable to you and me, would be at the mercy of an end loader or bulldozer. Some might want to push the box to get the truck to move, such as if it got stuck or needed a little extra &quot;umph&quot; to get started after loading and in soft soil or some such. They also might want to &quot;help&quot; the rear door to close (latch). There may be other reasons as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T01:39:05.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2014-10-29T03:58:13.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A late response on this. In the end. I picked up some PB Blaster from a local store and re-attached the rotor puller to what was left of the rotor. I got the rotor to the point where it was pulling on the edges and then soaked all the seams with PB blaster and let it sit over night. The next day I just slowly turned the bolt on the rotor puller. 1/2 turn on the ratchet every 1/2 hour, also adding more PB blaster every time. Rotor finally pop'ed off after 4 hours of this. &lt;p&gt;For the record the e-brake wasn't engaged. There are no threaded holes on the rear rotors on my s-10 either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6668" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T03:58:13.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T07:27:18.720" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2E Carburetor for my 4G13 Engine. My Problem is that 2E Carburetor Idle Up A/C Vacuum Actuator needs vacuum when the engine is on and when the A/C is On, the idle up vsv will be Off (or no vacuum at all). My Stock Variable Venturi Carburetor's Idle Up Vacuum actuator is on the opposite operation. A/C off, no Vacuum. A/C on, Vacuum is present (kicking the idle). Is there a way to Invert the Switch like A/C off, Vacuum On and A/C on, Vacuum Off(kicking the idle)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Don't advise me to stick will stock carburetor because i don't like it. I bought a 2E because my Stock Water Choke is not working at all. Just Respect my decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6770" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T07:27:18.720" Title="Inverting the A/C VSV Switch" Tags="|ac|carburetor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-29T08:51:45.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other common thing that causes high fuel consumption is imperfect work of brake system. Brake pistons and pads should travel freely... Just take your lifting jack and rotate the wheels right after applying brake: wheel should be fully released with no delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPD I suppose every sticking brake caliper adds 1 liter per 100 km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7355" LastEditorUserId="7355" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T11:11:30.637" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:11:30.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-29T10:41:09.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was also having a similar sort of question few months back, I have a diesel car and I am from India where diesel costs to 1$ [around 62 rs ] per litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made few changes to my habbit of driving, dont overspeed the vehicle, drive at proper RPM, switch off the car where you are about to stop more than a minute, especially at signals and traffic jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper maintenance of car, servicing, good tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And more important is keep your car clean and respect your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helped me manage my fuel expenses :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7357" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T10:41:09.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2014-10-29T10:41:24.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO, O2 sensor can't cause damage. If signal is faulty - ECU must be working in safe mode. That is why your check engine lamp was light on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have bad high voltage wires (plugs - coil) then high voltage jumps through any weak points and can damage and even solder parts. It also can damage ECU and its electronic parts like condensers. I suggest you to change wires every 0.5-1 year, it is cheap but very important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T10:41:24.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2014-10-29T14:48:25.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I have no knowledge of this specific vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, assuming faults fixed, the following I have found do work (on many vehicles over 40 years):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction reducers in the oil. PTFE ones gives about 10% improvement; takes a few 1,000 miles to coat the engine internals. Brands: Greased Lightning, Slick 50. Note: as losses in the engine drop, you get more power to the wheels....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get these for gearboxes too, but uplift minimal. Good though to help extend the life of a troubled gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+10% tyre pressure; gives another about 10% but slightly reduces grip and may cause tyre balding in middle. Use with caution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could go for low rolling resistance tyres, but they struggle to get +2% in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On carburettor engines: a powerful magnet (e.g. 'Eco-flow' brand) just before the fuel intake on the carb. Instant effect; however injected engines don't really benefit. This works with all moving fluids (gasses, liquids) which exist as ions (=most). Works well with gas or oil into domestic heating boilers / furnaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improvement varies by design of burners; expect anything from 5% to 20%. Old burners get a decent improvement, new systems less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Magnet needs to be clamped onto a metal pipe which goes all the way to the burners ** plastic removes the voltage potential necessary to maintain ion separation (the magnet polarises the moving fluid electro statically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lighten the vehicle; don't go mad, just don't carry heavy junk or spoil the vehicle airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be conservative using / changing vehicle momentum e.g. don't accelerate hard then break hard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, Don't Use ICE !! intrinsically they are c. 20% efficient. When you can, go electric...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7358" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T14:48:25.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2014-10-29T15:22:06.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber compounds in winter tires are designed to remain flexible in colder temperature (as well as any other fancy technology the manufacturer may incorporate).  Even on dry pavement, tires designed to remain firm at very warm temperatures become very hard at cold temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DAGS on &quot;7 degrees C winter tires&quot; and you will find lots of articles discussing rubber flexibility vs temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget, you can control your driving and go slower and more carefully, but this will not allow you to maneuver quickly in case of emergencies or other driver's mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I live in the Toronto, Canada area, and consider winter tires mandatory for myself.  The traction of an all-season tire is pathetically small in comparison.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6570" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T15:22:06.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12739" CreationDate="2014-10-29T15:44:17.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well after having no luck in trying to resolve the issue myself, we finally took the vehicle in. The technician was able to only get one code after trying to get it to reproduce the issue. Fuel Pressure Sensor fault. We had it replaced, a week latter now and still running strong. The technicians explanation was that the fuel pressure sensor pump starts to fail off either due to arcing, or just pure bad connections sending erroneous data to the computer. The computer would try to run the fuel pump harder to get better pressure in result causing it to turn off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue number one down of my 2005 Explorer, now down to the easy-to-fix Air handling issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7220" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T15:44:17.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T16:51:47.300" Score="1" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2005 Lexus RX330:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;P0304&lt;/kbd&gt; Cylinder #4 misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause and is it a big job to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;P0430&lt;/kbd&gt; Catalyst system efficiency below threshold - Bank 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a big job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it OK to run the car without fixing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:39:12.007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:39:12.007" Title="OBDII Codes P0304 and P0430" Tags="|cel|lexus|p0430|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12931" CreationDate="2014-10-29T17:23:04.627" Score="6" ViewCount="26074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently getting about 19.6 mpg city in my 97 Mazda Lantis 323 / Protege 1.8L.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/mazda/323/1997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to fuelly&lt;/a&gt; a car like this should be getting around 26 mpg.  The car has about 127k miles on it, and I don't think the O2 sensor has ever been changed, but no error showed up for it when hooked up to a scanner. I just replaced plugs, oil / air filters and oil and the coolant temp sensor ( I was getting about 10 mpg before that ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to tell if changing it would increase my mileage and by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T08:27:11.533" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T23:00:45.587" Title="How much improvement from replacing an O2 sensor?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12930" CreationDate="2014-10-29T19:09:03.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you're going to be able to have someone put a number on this. I'm betting you also know that just because no error was thrown, it doesn't mean that the sensor isn't impacting performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/5979549/get-better-gas-mileage-and-fuel-economy-with-these-diy-car-care-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lifehacker notes that&lt;/a&gt; replacing them could improve mileage &quot;up to 15%.&quot; As @BobCross mentioned, &quot;most people wouldn't consider it worth their time to do the comparison. That said, O2 sensors have a finite lifespan.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from Bob, &quot;..at 127K miles, the O2 is probably done. Replacing it is usually not a hard DIY job and is certainly cheaper than what some shops would charge.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/12788/1743&quot;&gt;Paulster's previous note&lt;/a&gt; regarding MAP &amp;amp; MAF is still relevant, since they are also involved in mix calculations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that being said, you'll find all kinds of anecdotal evidence that replacing your O2 sensor can improve mileage, but in the end, &quot;it depends&quot;; YMMV (no pun intended.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:40:14.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T21:37:27.120" Score="5" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I'm seeing the vehicle stall occasionally after I back out of my driveway (~40 feet) and shift into forward. It doesn't exhibit the problem every time, but it seems to have started happening about a month ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After stalling, the car is very difficult to start. It cranks and cranks, but never seems to catch. Giving it a little bit of gas via the pedal does eventually (reluctantly, after 3-4s) cause it to catch. I know this is bad for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be a pattern as to when it decides to do it. At first, I thought it was because it was happening when I turned the steering wheel as I was shifting, and that it had something to do with the extra drop in HP from the steering pump being stressed. I've mostly ruled that out, because we've been careful to not turn the wheel when shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet established whether the cold-starting vs. warm-starting affects this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire away with additional questions. I'll edit the question as they come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T18:26:23.263" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T18:26:23.263" Title="Car stalls when shifting from reverse to forward" Tags="|jeep|shifting|grand-cherokee|stall|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12930" CreationDate="2014-10-29T23:22:27.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @LynnCrumbling stated, this would be hard to put a number on, mainly because it depends on too many factors. This is what I can tell you. When O2 sensors get old, they don't necessarily go &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;, what they do is get &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt;. When a good O2 sensor is doing its thing, if you were to look at the readings from it, the numbers go all over the place, from top of the range to bottom of the range and everywhere in between. As the sensor gets old, this jumping of numbers slows down. This is called getting &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt;. The lazier the sensor gets, the worse your gas mileage may become, due mainly to the fact that the computer can only go on the information which is given it. I'm not sure if it would drop as much as you're talking in your case, but it will drop. When I say drop, it's not a drastic thing. It will just get worse and worse over time, until it gets to the point where you say, &quot;&lt;em&gt;I'm currently getting 19.6mpg ...&lt;/em&gt;&quot; and they'll do all of this without throwing a code on your computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I cannot tell you by how much it will increase, but if they are as old as you say, with the mileage you are talking about, I'd say they are way over due. Most manufacturers recommend O2 replacement every 100k miles. The need for changing the O2 sensors is pretty much a given at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T23:22:27.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T23:50:29.317" Score="4" ViewCount="26162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started to have starting problem a few weeks ago.&#xA;If I didn't drive my car for 1 or 2, the car won't start. The only way to start the car is to turn the steering wheel from side to side (about 1/4 a circle, from 12 o'clock to 9 and then back), and turn the key at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have new engine oil, new oil filter, and oil level is good.&#xA;Battery should be ok, only a few years old and I did refill the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering oil should be ok, I don't know about steering pump condition. It's the original pump, but is it the root of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check the coolant, it's ok, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I'm not talking about steering column lock. This after I unlock the car and trying to crank the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7365" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T04:14:09.713" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T01:52:15.603" Title="Weird Problem! Need to turn steering wheel to crank start the car" Tags="|electrical|toyota|ignition|steering|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12895" CreationDate="2014-10-30T02:09:41.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, something else happened which explains why the truck doesn't work. The truck didn't crank because the ALT-A (80-AMP) fuse tripped. I replaced the 80-AMP fuse as well as other fuses that also blew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing the fuses, the truck cranked, the interior lights burned, the radio played, and the windows rolled. Cross connecting battery cables to a charged battery did indeed trip the fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T02:09:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T04:29:37.897" Score="4" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've done a lot of under body work on my 02 Chevy cavalier z24, the most recent being the sway bar, rack and pinion and last week the struts. Around the time we did either the sway bar or the rack I had to come to a quick stop and the car skidded. I wrote it off to the rain but just to be sure I re-enacted the same while it was dry out and same results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We looked online and all signs pointed to my struts but with them now new still same results. My drive shaft does need replacement but I would like opinions on what the issue could be besides the drive shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since the rack was replaced there has been a popping noise like the parts shift when I turn or brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be possible we missed something or maybe need a part the last owner could have missed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked extensively online and the answers keep me guessing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7366" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:45:38.640" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:48:37.553" Title="02 chevy cavalier skidding when braking" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T09:55:09.460" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Renault Clio II has a very streaky/greasy windscreen. It's only apparent in a couple of spots on the glass, but glares in the rain at night. I've tried everything from wipes to sprays and it just won't shift. I'm not very comfortable with driving at night now due to the restricted vision when it streaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine suggested baking powder and a damp cloth - I suppose as a mild abrasive this might help, but I would like some consensus on this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend to shift a smear that just won't budge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7368" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T11:28:53.300" Title="Renault Clio II streaky / greasy windscreen" Tags="|windshield|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12943" CreationDate="2014-10-30T12:35:39.370" Score="3" ViewCount="247480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 2007 honda civic. The radio and everything work fine, but when i try to turn on the engine it makes clicking noise. I thought, it could be a battery problem. I also try jump starter to start the car, but same result. The headlight also works fine. I feel like the clicking noise comes from under the dashboard, but i'm not certain. What could be the possible problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7370" LastEditorUserId="7370" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T12:57:19.613" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T01:13:04.127" Title="The car makes clicking noise when i try to turn on the engine. What could be the problem?" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|noise|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12942" CreationDate="2014-10-30T12:57:51.163" Score="0" ViewCount="4403" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of this morning my rear windshield wipers stopped working.  I just bought the car this year and it is still covered by my three year warranty.  I called the Mini dealership and they said that they can fix it on Monday.  However in the past they've told me that for safety issues they would give me a rental the same day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally see it as a safety issue.  I'm trying to find a Massachusetts law that says real windshield wipers specifically but I don't think one exists.  This &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1430/ma-inspection-rejected-due-to-wiper-blades-for-real&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; led me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lawlib.state.ma.us/source/mass/cmr/cmrtext/540CMR4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this law&lt;/a&gt; that says &quot;Windshield wipers must work as originally designed.&quot;  Then goes on to site a 2 blade example, but I think that is mostly an artifact of the time it was written, and not to mean 'only in the case of 2 blades.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a possible rear window obstruction a safety issue or am I being overly cautious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6960" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T10:20:54.973" Title="Rear Windshield Wiper Requirements" Tags="|safety|windshield-wipers|warranty|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12940" CreationDate="2014-10-30T15:37:14.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I cannot interpret Massachusetts law, I can say that for a rear window obstruction &quot;it depends.&quot; Mainly it depends on your driving skill and preparedness for driving without the rear view. The rear view is most important when you are in reverse or if you are switching lanes on a multi-lane road. Your ability to use the side mirrors and turn your head to observe blind spots, along with your ability to anticipate passing vehicles will provide some, not all, information that can normally be had with the rear view mirror. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had to do this a few times when I had a full load in my station wagon. It is not optimal, but it is possible. For most driving circumstances, such as good weather, that rear wiper is not needed. If you recognize that there will be heavy rain or snow where you would need the wiper, plan your drive accordingly until you can have it repaired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T15:37:14.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2014-10-30T15:59:19.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in the comments already, the clicking you hear is probably the starter solenoid. You have ruled out a weak battery being the probable cause by attempting to the jump-start the engine. This means either the power cable running directly from the battery to the starter motor is too resistive/poorly connected, or that the starter motor itself is no longer functioning. You don't specify how many miles are on the vehicle, but this is a real possibility, even on a 2007 vehicle. The failure of the starter motor could be due to the brushes making poor contact, since they wear each time the car is started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing, you can try tapping on the starter motor housing with 2x4 piece of wood, a broom handle, or something similar. I was able to squeeze a few more starts out of my old starter this way. This would also pinpoint the probable cause to the starter motor. To test the power cable, you need to find a way to measure the voltage seen at the starter motor terminals, not just at the battery. It may be as simple as a loose connection on the starter motor terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T15:59:19.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:02:42.570" Score="1" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than reporting error codes, is a scan tool useful?  Can it help you to tune the car to optimize gas mileage for example or other helpful things?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T08:16:41.260" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T14:53:37.123" Title="What good is a scan tool?" Tags="|obd-ii|tools|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:12:00.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes, with there being specifics for your car, of course. A good scan tool will tell you the instantaneous fuel consumption (which many cars have as a part of the instrument cluster now). You can view the exact coolant temperature being measured, which can be helpful for troubleshooting the cooling system. On some vehicles, with the right scan system, which may even be proprietary, you can change settings in the vehicle computer. You can change performance settings this way, although I think most cars nowadays are already optimized for the best gas mileage. Information about the ignition timing is available this way, too, and that can be helpful for troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:12:00.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T18:01:50.880" Score="0" ViewCount="2482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Y12 Wingroad Nissan. While driving at 100km/hr and I stop, and begin driving again, I see a lot of blue smoke from exhaust for a little while. I also get a flat spot and pinking when accelerating. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T21:09:59.133" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T21:09:59.133" Title="Blue smoke upon acceleration and pinking" Tags="|fuel-system|nissan|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2014-10-30T18:43:22.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to a 205 width tire, you would need to move to a smaller profile ratio - which would be a 55, in order to get close to the original tire height. Typically, going to a wider tire hampers original performance. Wider tires weigh more, have a wider contact patch, so it takes more force to move (increased fuel consumption), and harder for it to channel water, cost more and makes the ride harsher due to increased sidewall flexing. Race cars run wide tires mainly due to improved heat dissipation properties and increased cornering response. However, passenger cars don't have the same requirements as a race car. In the end, within reason, running a wider tire is a personal choice. I've actually moved to using a thinner tire (195/60R16 from a 205/55R16) to help with driving in the snow. It has also improved my gas mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7375" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T18:43:22.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2014-10-30T20:58:40.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes down to it, a scan tool is irreplaceable. It used to be you could short two pins on the DLC and make codes flash on your dash. Now, you get a light on your dash and you need a way to figure out what it is ... that is, if you don't want to fully trust your mechanic. The right scan tools can also be used to diagnose anti-lock brake issues or supplemental restraint systems (air bags). Without the tool, you would either be replacing parts blind or are at the mercy of your mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you can purchase apps for your iPhone or Android devices which can allow you to tap into the codes and information through a bluetooth connection device. These can be had a reasonable price for those who don't want to spend a lot of money a hand held device with fairly good results. I would bet, someone who is truly of an entrepreneurial spirit could take one of these bluetooth gadgets and write some code to make it do all sorts of things. With OBDII and the CAN Bus, the sky is nearly the limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T20:58:40.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12946" CreationDate="2014-10-30T21:08:19.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two separate issues here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you have what I would think is leaking valve seals. When you slow down, there is a great amount of vacuum build up inside the intake track. With leaking valve seals, this will pull oil past them and down into the intake track. This gets pulled into your engine when you speed back up and causes the blue smoke. Depending on the vehicle, this problem might be able to be handled without a major engine tear down, but who knows. Considering it's a small vehicle which probably has an over head cam, I would bet it will take some major tearing apart (head off the engine block) to get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it sounds like you need a tune up. The pinging might be due to carbon buildup due to burning oil which we looked at previously. Carbon buildup causes hotspots in your combustion chamber which allows the air/fuel mixture to ignite prior to when it's supposed to. You could try using some higher octane fuel, but that's expensive. You'll probably need an intake tract cleaning after the engine work I stated above to get it to stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T21:08:19.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T21:33:19.437" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Mustang 3.8 liter engine. Battery gauge was going down so I had the battery and alternator tested. Was told battery was bad and I replaced it. Same thing happened. I replaced the alternator next Two days later my wife started the car and the battery gauge went to minus symbol after a minute or two of engine running in driveway with heat on. Need some input here... What kind of electrical issue do I have? If any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T21:47:23.993" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T12:33:38.780" Title="99 Mustang Volt Gauge Issue" Tags="|electrical|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12938" CreationDate="2014-10-30T21:45:21.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would try to do is use a very good window cleaner, or even vinegar. Just get it as clean as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you already tried something like this, the next thing I'd do is use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/clbaandlu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clay bar&lt;/a&gt; to see if it will pull the contaminants off the windshield. Use it just like you would if you were cleaning your paint job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clay bar doesn't do the trick, try using a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/dp515.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Detailer’s Pro Series High Performance Glass Restorer&lt;/a&gt;. A product like this is non-abrasive and will not mar the glass. I would not use the baking soda. Even as light of an abrasive as it is, it is still an abrasive and could cause further damage to your windshield. While you can use other products to buff out a windshield with damage you cannot feel with your finger nail, it is a lot of work and is usually best left to the professional to accomplish correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I am not promoting any products in the link or the link itself ... these are just examples of what I'm talking about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T21:45:21.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12951" CreationDate="2014-10-30T21:53:23.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check the voltage at the battery when this is going on? If not, pull out a multi-meter and see what the voltage is at the battery. It should read somewhere between 13-14vdc. Do this directly at your battery posts and not off on some other ground/power source. If your charging looks good, the issue, I think would point at the gauge being the issue. It is not unheard of for you to get a bad alternator, especially if it's a rebuilt one. Considering the car was still running when the gauge read like it did, I'm doubting there is a problem with your charging system, but you never know. Another indicator would be if the gauge was looking fine, then suddenly dropped over to the negative side. In order for the car to run, it needs electricity. If it had used up enough out of your battery to drop the gauge like that, the engine would die due to the lack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T21:53:23.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T23:22:33.663" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove the control arm from the wiper motor? All videos I've seen show the motor removed with the short actuator arm still attached (via the only real nut I can see. Also I'm not sure if that nut is left hand threads but it just fights me anyway and turns). Do I just destroy the (pressure fit?) rubber nut to get it lose? '91 Chevy Astro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtXiNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7378" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T00:59:50.277" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T02:44:49.207" Title="Remove rubber nut from wiper motor arm?" Tags="|chevrolet|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2014-10-30T23:29:23.803" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ECON button is not a placebo, though the wording from that specific web page is a bit vague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is that the ECON button and the Eco-Assist system are two separate things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://automobiles.honda.com/civic-hybrid/fuel-efficiency.aspx&quot;&gt;According to Honda&lt;/a&gt;, pressing the ECON button configures your car to improve mileage at the cost of performance. Turning it off will improve power and reduce mileage, which you might want to do when driving in the mountains, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Economy modes like this with vehicles typically work by making changes to both the engine and drivetrain to improve efficiency while reducing power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of ways to do this include changing the speed at which the automatic transmission shifts into higher gears, advancing or retarding engine timing, restricting the amount of air and fuel admitted to the engine, and in some cases even completely &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/petrol/active-cylinder-technology-act&quot;&gt;shutting off one or more cylinders in the engine.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Honda Civic, I found reference to the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dowhonda.com/blog/index.php/should-i-press-the-econ-button/&quot;&gt;specific changes with ECON mode&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gentler throttle: Limits how much the throttle opens when you press&#xA;on the gas pedal.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More efficient shifting: The automatic transmission shifts into&#xA;higher gears sooner, which means slower acceleration but better fuel&#xA;economy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing the length of time the air conditioner runs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively this means the ECON mode limits your ability to waste gas by making it impossible to do certain wasteful things. It might be possible to achieve the same efficiency with manual driving, but it would not be easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Eco-Assist system is a separate system which uses color-changing lights on your dash to help you monitor the efficiency of your driving style. Rapid acceleration, riding the brakes, and other silly driving habits will make the dash indicators blue. A more efficient driving style will cause them to glow green. The more green you see, the better your mileage will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="7225" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T22:02:18.300" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T22:02:18.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T22:49:11.347" Score="2" ViewCount="578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a carseat that has a looped seatbelt and I have fought with it for the last hour. I don't want to send it in, I want to fix it myself. Anyone have any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11VRP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3829" OwnerDisplayName="Kirk" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T00:06:40.793" Title="How do I fix a wrapped seatbelt?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12956" CreationDate="2014-10-30T22:51:21.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, all that's happened is that the buckle has slid over a partial twist in the belt. With enough wiggling, you should be able to push the buckle to one side or the other of the fold. Note that if you push it to the wrong side you may need to deliberately do this again to get the buckle twisted back onto the original side of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annoying, but common and not a big deal if you're patient and persistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="keshlam" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T22:51:21.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2014-10-31T08:07:02.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what that specific button does, but I can tell you what similar buttons in other cars do: they retard your throttle response so that your car feels more sluggish. This means that when you step on the gas, it does not cause the throttle to open quite as much, making your drive smoother and more fuel efficient. Conversely, a &quot;sport&quot; button would increase throttle response and make for a more lively feeling car. You don't need to press the accelerator quite as far to get the car to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the simplest system. Some systems also switch off the car at a stop, shut down the fuel injection system when coasting and/or adjust the air/fuel mix to burn very lean (lean = less fuel/more air) when driving slow with little load on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a lower powered car, the effect wouldn't be very pronounced. You would hardly notice a difference. But in higher performance cars, especially turbocharged cars, the effect can be simply astonishing. If you ever have the chance, go test drive a new BMW 320i. They have 3 modes (I think) : econ, comfort and sport (or something like that). Each mode is markedly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T08:07:02.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T08:34:14.673" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any software based scanners which are comparable to a high quality hand held scanner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T12:59:10.720" Title="Software Scanners vs. Handheld Scanners" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12940" CreationDate="2014-10-31T10:20:54.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very unlikely that any jurisdiction would require you to have a working rear wiper, for the simple reason that many vehicles (vans, lorries etc) don't have any rear windscreen at all. And as both James and Paul have said above, you could easily be driving with a load that obscured your rear window in a normal car. In both cases the driver would be reliant on the side mirrors for a rear view. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I wouldn't worry about it, especially if they are going to fix it on Monday - you can always clean the glass by hand before you set off if you think it's too dirty...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T10:20:54.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T17:59:55.377" Score="0" ViewCount="2221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Saab 900 and when I press down on the clutch pedal to change gear it makes a rasping noise? Could someone tell me please is this serious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7384" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T14:09:21.433" Title="Noise when pressing clutch pedal" Tags="|clutch|saab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2014-10-31T19:54:24.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never been able to find any empirical evidence to support the various claims made by different coolant manufacturers. As far as I know, it does not exist. There are no absolutes. You will not necessarily be safe even using coolant with the brand name of your car on it. I have been an auto mechanic for 35+ years. Back in the old days (actually not that long ago) when all vehicles used GREEN ethylene glycol coolant with silicates in it, of any brand, there were very few problems. Corrosion usually happened when someone left the coolant in there a LOT longer than they were supposed to, or put tap water in the cooling system. Tap water in my area is loaded with calcium chloride, and will cause corrosion even when mixed with the proper coolant. Many people use it to &quot;flush&quot; their cooling systems, not realizing how much damage they are actually doing. Once corrosion starts, it is impossible to get rid of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything changed with the advent of Dexcool (commonly know among mechanics as &quot;deathcool&quot; for it's propensity to destroy engines. This is an OAT or HOAT coolant, and is some really nasty stuff. I have seen many cooling systems destroyed by it. It plugs everything up with a brown waxy substance that nothing I know of will remove. It may be ok to use for 2 years, but GM says it can be used up to 5 years/150,000 miles. I can almost guarantee that if you do that, you will be needing a new engine. I have pulled heads on engines that had the coolant passages almost completely plugged. Usually it plugs up the radiator and causes severe overheating before reaching that point. But, I have replaced several engines that were destroyed by this stuff. I'm talking about orange Dexcool. Avoid it like the plague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen this issue with other brands of coolant, or with the new formulation of Dexcool, which is red. But it is the orange stuff they sell in stores. Don't use it under any circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prestone will be fine, as long as you replace it every 2 years. ALL coolant should be replaced every 2 years, regardless of brand or mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It IS true that not all coolants are compatible. Basically this refers to the older green ethylene glycol type with silicates (silicates help keep the cooling system clean, they are abrasive, and scrub any rust or corrosion off the inside of the coolant passages) They have been used in coolant since the Model T. Older American water pumps never had a problem with them. I have no idea why the Japanese manufacturers won't build water pumps that are compatible with it. The problem happens when you mix silicate type coolant with OAT or HOAT type coolant. It coagulates and plugs things up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7385" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T19:54:24.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12962" CreationDate="2014-10-31T20:16:42.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your limited description, it could be one of two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and most likely, your clutch could going out. When disengaging your clutch, if there is any metal-to-metal contact, it's going to may a louder noise than normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, it could be that the throw-out bearing is worn out. The reason I think this is less likely than the first is that the friction disk will usually wear out before the throw-out bearing will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, if one or the other is going bad, you'll want to get them both replaced at the same time. This is because both problems require you to split the transmission/engine. This means that the labor charge should be about the same for either or with both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I was just thinking, if you are saying the noise is actually a grinding noise (like when you are actually changing gears) it could be that your synchros are going out (or are pretty much shot) in your transmission. Your synchros allow the gears to match speed with each other and then go into gear easier without the grinding. It can make a lot of noise, but usually only happens in 1-2 gear or 3-4 gear (going either way), and then later on you might hear it in the other set of gears as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T20:16:42.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8783" CreationDate="2014-10-31T20:41:42.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check both fuel pumps? Could one be working and one not.  There are two on the 2007 one under the driver’s side and one under the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7386" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T20:41:42.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15696" CreationDate="2014-10-31T20:42:53.830" Score="4" ViewCount="8380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced a leaking power steering pump in my 99 Nissan Maxima about a month and a half ago. Bought the new pump from NAPA, used NAPA branded power steering fluid. My buddy and I switched out the pump, replaced all the fluid in the system, kept the car on jacks and moved the wheels from stop to stop for probably 10 minutes until all the air bubbles appeared to be purged from the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump works once there are some RPMs on the engine; even as low as 1000-1200. Sitting at idle, however, there is no power steering. Any common causes for this? The car is a manual, not sure that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt the belt deflection again this morning and it seems tight; no squealing from the engine or anything. Belt deflects between 1/4 to 1/2 inch per the Haynes manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reservoir appears to be full; it's sitting right between cold min and cold max when the car is parked on the driveway, wheels straight. Same amount of fluid as was present after the pump was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the radiator tomorrow and I will try tightening the belt tensioner again, but I don't want to overdo things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to fix the issue without swapping out the pump because that repair was a bear. Suggestions appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Screenshots of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/P-S-Pump-w-o-Reservoir-Remfd/_/R-PNB385658_0333881382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;power steering pump&lt;/a&gt; used to replace the original (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/P-S-Pump-w-o-Reservoir-Remfd/_/R-PNB385658_0333881382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to NAPA listing&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJ8Hs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NAPA Power Steering Pump - Right Side&quot;&gt;&#xA;Right Side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vONWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Left Side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="6756" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T22:24:09.953" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T19:52:23.213" Title="Power Steering non functional at idle" Tags="|nissan|power-steering|idle|maxima|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12954" CreationDate="2014-11-01T02:06:49.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed. Turns out, the new one doesn't come with an actuator arm, so I undid the bolt (which was not left hand threads) by grasping the arm with a wrench. I am still curious as to how that rubber fastener works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7378" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T02:06:49.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12969" CreationDate="2014-11-01T02:18:51.623" Score="1" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on buy a used 2 ton car jack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some warnings/items I should be on the look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is buying a used car jack a safe idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T20:50:17.243" Title="Buying a used car jack" Tags="|jack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12968" CreationDate="2014-11-01T11:42:07.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you are saying you are going to purchase a used &quot;hydraulic&quot; jack? If so, the main thing to look out for is if it is leaking or not. If it's a scissor style jack, ensure smooth operation. Test out the jack to ensure it works, such as does it smoothly jack your car up? Does it smoothly let your car down? Make sure YOU know how to use it. A used jack is like any other piece of equipment. If it is used and maintained correctly, it can last a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a safety item, remember to use wheel chocks when jacking your vehicle. Use jack stands to support your vehicle if you plan to go under the vehicle. A jack can fail a lot easier than a properly positioned jack stand, and as long as it is never over burdened (too much weight on it), a jack stand will continuously hold a vehicle up in the air without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T20:50:17.243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T20:50:17.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2014-11-02T02:24:52.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had good luck with the kerosene method. Which is adding about a quart of kerosene to the oil  and brining the temperature of the engine up to running temp for 5 minutes then drain. Then I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and a new decent filter. After 5000 miles I change the filter. Then at 10,000 miles I change the oil and the filter again. My '86 Chevy suburban has 517,402 miles. It's hard to fight with success like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7390" LastEditorUserId="7390" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T02:30:56.720" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T02:30:56.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12975" CreationDate="2014-11-02T03:36:42.143" Score="1" ViewCount="2050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 2007 Honda civic (automatic transmission). I had to replace the starter in the car couple of days ago. After the replacement, I feel like I have to press the gas more than before to expect acceleration. At some degree, I don't even get the expected acceleration. The acceleration rate has been changed significantly. What can possibly cause this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7370" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T11:14:31.237" Title="What can possibly cause acceleration problem in a car?" Tags="|honda|civic|starter|acceleration|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12972" CreationDate="2014-11-02T10:56:23.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A routine replacement of the starter motor would not cause an increase in fuel consumption or effect its acceleration. You may have an incorrect replacement motor, or defective motor staying engaged and causing the symptoms you described. Otherwise, starter bolts fitted in the wrong position and jamming on the engines ringgear. Connections such as vacuum hoses removed for accesss reconnected in the wrong position. You need to go over the replacement from start to finish to determine what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T10:56:23.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12968" CreationDate="2014-11-02T11:11:16.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trolley jack is used to raise the vehicle which involves a heavy weight. So trolley jacks should be maintained and serviced on a regular basis. Any damage that is caused during its use should be professional repaired, including the ram. A full history of the jack is necessary for an insurance company to cover any indemnity of its use in a garage. A new jack would not cost that much more than a used one in a good state of repair, and comes without the baggage of a 'used' jack. If you are offered a 'cheap' used jack you really have to ask yourself why. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T11:11:16.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12966" CreationDate="2014-11-02T11:19:30.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your power steering pump has a pressure release valve/device to release excessive pressure during the pumps operation. An incorrect setting would cause your symptoms. Other then a faulty pump the rest of the system needs to be checked. Steering rack defective; hoses fitted incorrectly; hoses kinked or damaged preventing fluid flow; suspension members seizing; power steering pressure switch malfunction - all need to be checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T11:19:30.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12962" CreationDate="2014-11-02T11:22:00.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicles clutch requires an overhaul. Its release bearing and/or the pressure plate have begun to dis-intergrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T11:22:00.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12960" CreationDate="2014-11-02T11:40:02.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two versions of scanner. OEM from the manufacturer, and after-market versions. Vehicle scanners on todays vehicles from the manufacturer allow access to the vehicles ECUs to the extent that after market scanners do not, these are only available under license. This is to prevent the theft or changing of major parts of the vehicle, or the vehicle itself. After market scanners will carry out a lot of service operations but not everything. After market scanners will report on OBD2 and will list any thing else that they are programmed to do. There is no set standard of range on after market scanners. The only differance between software and hand helds are that software versions require a laptop and a compatable DLC plug, with usually Windows or Linux op systems. You need to know what you intend to do, or are capable of doing, before buying a scanner that covers your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T11:40:02.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2365" CreationDate="2014-11-02T14:57:51.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between an &quot;OEM&quot; new never programmed FOB and one that has already been linked to a vehicle. That being said there is hope if you have gotten one off EBay that was used.  The directions to program the ability to start the car work fine on either the OEM or the used FOB but the smart key (SKS) functions will not program with the open-close-door dance on a used FOB.  All 4 of the Toyota dealers that I called told me there was nothing I could do and offered to sell me a new FOB and program it for prices ranging from $230-$290.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A locksmith saved the day.  There is a device called a T-Code pro that plugs into the OBDII port on the Prius (I have a 2008) and allows the locksmith to reset the immobilizer (takes 16 min) after the reset ALL FOBs have to be programmed into the system (even an existing one that worked).  This is as simple as holding both the lock and unlock buttons on the FOB for a second or two.  The car will beep and ta-da the $60 used FOB now works for both the ignition and the SKS.  I am sure prices will vary but the locksmith that I found only charged $50 for the service (I brought the car to him so no travel fee).  So for about $110 I now have two FOBs with complete functionality, one original to the car and one “used” one from EBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps other owners that, like me are just trying to save a buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7393" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T13:19:11.253" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T13:19:11.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:35:44.133" Score="6" ViewCount="6032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people, presumably kids, spray painted my windows and other parts of my car the other weekend. I took the critical area's (the windows) off with a razor blade paint scraper. How can I get the rest of the spray paint off without damaging the cars actual paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:31:46.247" Title="What should I use to remove spray paint" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:46:47.253" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appear to have a leak near the upper right hand corner of my passenger side windshield. At least that my guess. The leak was really only noticeable whilst driving down the road into heavy rain. Can/should I fix this myself? what should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="923" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T20:43:30.600" Title="Windshield leak" Tags="|windshield|water-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2014-11-02T16:47:29.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The areas for checking the leak are the window channels, the grooves which the glass slides in, are fully in place to the top of the window frame; The glass is sitting in the window channels squarely, adjustment can usually be made on the glass retainers behind the doors trim panel; The door aperture seal is correctly fitted and in good condition, the aperture seal is the usually rubber tube like affair fitted to the door aperature and which the door closes against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T16:47:29.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12981" CreationDate="2014-11-02T16:56:53.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A professional quality re-finish would mean stripping the affected paint work back to bare metal and a re-spray, but not always. Firstly, try on a small area of the effected paint work an application of regular domestic oven cleaner. Leave it on for only the time it takes to soften the spray paint and rinse off the emulsion produced straight away with clean water. Use a pair of protective gloves to keep the oven cleaner off of your hands. With the spray paint removed polish the paint work of the car with car polish. This works on most car finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T16:56:53.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2014-11-02T17:10:51.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On all vehicles today control of the various systems are electronic. You need an electronic meter to establish correct working and prescence. This is known as a scanner. When systems operate at speeds measured in milli-seconds you need to have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T17:10:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T17:41:22.690" Score="5" ViewCount="40562" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is kept in a garage; however I took it out this AM and parked on street for about an hour.  I got in the car and the Low Tire Pressure light came on.  I do not have a flat tire.  Can I drive it for a few about 25 miles before putting in air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7395" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T09:03:37.423" Title="Can I drive my 2013 Toyota Camry a few miles after Low Tire Pressure light comes on?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12986" CreationDate="2014-11-02T17:58:30.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You're probably fine.  Keep an eye on your handling and braking distances.  Add a bit of air as soon as is feasible and see if the light goes out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you just edged below the low-pressure warning on a colder day than your car is used to.  The lower temperature results in a lower pressure inside the tire (hooray for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boyle&amp;#39;s_law&quot;&gt;Boyle's Law&lt;/a&gt;!).  I had a similar situation in my wife's car a few weeks ago: a brief squirt of air from the gas station compressor and the light has been out since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that, in the absence of a compressor, a simple bike pump works just fine.  It might take a little longer but it certainly works in a pinch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T17:58:30.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12981" CreationDate="2014-11-02T18:07:24.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8766/57&quot;&gt;The first thing that I usually try in situations like this is some cleaner wax&lt;/a&gt; (e.g., some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JKIRC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zymol&lt;/a&gt; - it's cheap, cheerful and smells nice):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty pleased with the procedure that I outlined in the attached &quot;door ding&quot; answer.  The most important point, though, is that &lt;strong&gt;patience is key&lt;/strong&gt;.  You're almost certainly super annoyed at this situation (I'm annoyed and it's not even my car!) but you're going to have to accept that slow and careful progress is much better than making the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T18:07:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12990" CreationDate="2014-11-02T18:46:17.790" Score="1" ViewCount="2612" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supposed I want to buy a new car and I have its VIN. Is it possible to find information about the car such as whether it has a moonroof or turbo engine from its VIN number? There are services which give you car history (accidents, maintenance, etc) and you need to pay for the report. Is there a service which gives detailed information (such as moonroof, turbo engine, etc) about the original state of the car when it is/was newly manufactured and is such a service free?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7396" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:17:11.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:17:15.777" Title="VIN information such as Moonroof, engine, etc" Tags="|car|part-identification|vehicle-identification|vin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12989" CreationDate="2014-11-02T20:40:25.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the dealership, you can take the VIN to them and they can give you all of the options which were installed on that particular car from the factory. (At least here in the States you can do that.) They are the only ones which are going to know exactly what was installed from the factory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:17:15.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:17:15.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2014-11-02T20:43:30.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another area to pay attention to is if you have a sun/moon roof installed in your vehicle. These have drain tubes which can come loose and allow leakage inside the vehicle in odd places. You'd probably need to remove the sun roof to figure out if this has happened. I would not suggest you try it if you've never done it before, as a small leak is much better in the short term than a large hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T20:43:30.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12986" CreationDate="2014-11-02T21:19:13.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I once noticed my wife's 2007 Camry had tires that looked low after a drive one day (never a good sign on high-profile 215/60/R16 tires). Sure enough, they measured at 16-18 lbs. each, or half of what Toyota wants. It never triggered the low tire pressure light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should actually measure the tire pressure on your Camry and see how low it is. As long as there's more than 15 or so pounds, you can safely drive a bit to fill them up. As Bob Cross mentioned, keep an eye on the sudden maneuvers. Low tires get hot, risking a blowout, and they resist sharp turns in direction--which includes braking hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep a quality tire pressure gauge in my trunk because I'm not sure you can trust some of the TPMS implementations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4535" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T21:19:13.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T22:24:27.843" Score="2" ViewCount="6499" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the highest percentage of ethanol my car can take? I have a ford escape 2007. I have been putting in either 10% or 20%. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7399" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T17:21:49.963" Title="What percentage of ethanol can my ford take?" Tags="|engine|ford|ethanol|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2014-11-03T02:02:03.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you really care about what your car looks like, what you do to it and/or what others think or say about your ride please disregard this option but it's free, quick and you dont have to replace anything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a steel windshield wiper arm and the wiper is experiencing little contact with the windshield, just bend the windshield arm about 4 inches away from the link tip (to assure you don't mess up the connector). Bend it about 2 to 3 degrees (not too much) and thats it. my trucks been good for months now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll need pliers and a monkey wrench (or whatever helps you sleep at night) for a precise bend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 minutes tops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T02:02:03.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T05:20:31.773" Score="2" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can imagine lots and lots of reasons why a MotoGp helmet is desgined that way. Aerodynamics and multiple layers of protection being the main reason. But a motocross helmet has its front pointed. And a sunshade(it seems). How aerodynamic is that anyways? In case if the rider should fall on his/her nose, the long pointed end of the helmet may prove to be counter-productive and it might hurt/break the neck. But i can guess why do they insist on using goggles instead of visors. Is that the reason? That a person can use goggles which fit perfectly inside the MotoCross Helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T09:21:57.033" Title="Why are motocross helmets designed the way they are?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-03T13:17:09.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2014-11-03T07:40:14.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is go down to the dealership and ask to look at the one you need and take your cell phone.&#xA;Take pictures of it and take measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to ask a person who has the same type of vehicle as you and take&#xA;a look at his and ask him if he wouldn't made your taking a pic of it and measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T07:40:14.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T08:26:11.180" Score="0" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealer can't find anything wrong. Once I clutch start it I don't have the problem anymore. Until it is really rainy or cold a again. &#xA;The Kia dealer can't find anything wrong. Do you think it could be the starter or solenoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7405" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T11:39:55.280" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T10:14:09.893" Title="My Kia soul won't start when rainy or very cold" Tags="|battery|starter|kia|soul|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2014-11-03T09:21:57.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all about safety for the specific requirements of motocross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In motocross you do not want the weight of a full helmet when you are coming down off a jump, so the lighter the helmet, the less strain on your neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The peak is designed to snap off in the event of a crash, so that is not a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics are also not an issue - motocross speeds are relatively low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T09:21:57.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12989" CreationDate="2014-11-03T11:42:01.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible. I don't think you'll find a free service that will tell you everything you want, but if you have a specific car in mind, you should be able to find a website that will give your the info for that specific brand, e.g. if it's a Subaru, you can try a Subaru owners forum, or Nissan, Ford, etc. You will need the engine number to find out whether it's a turbo though. VIN will only give you make and model. From the model, you can do an extra web search to tell which model options are available for that specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the engine number,the code tells you everything about the engine in a very simple way. The Vauxhall Z20LET engine for instance tells you that it's an 8.x compression ratio (From the Z) 2 litre (20) engine complying with a specific Euro emissions target (L) with electronic fuel injection (E) and it's turbocharged (T). The exact code differs by manufacturer, but coincidentally, Nissan follows the same approach. So an RB26DETT is a 2.6 liter TwinTurbo (this engine was found in the R34 GTR) while the RB20DET is a 2 liter Turbo (Nissan 200sx and Silvia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T11:50:44.590" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T11:50:44.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12994" CreationDate="2014-11-03T12:01:38.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular vehicles can handle 10% ethanol without too much of an issue. This is the normal blend (E10) which is required by the US government (I don't know what is specified elsewhere in the world). Unless your vehicle was specifically setup as a &quot;flex-fuel&quot; vehicle, it won't be able to deal with more than that. Ethanol fuel itself is usually an 85% ethanol/gas blend, and is called E85. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles which are setup as flex-fuel vehicles have more to them than just parts which can stand up to the corrosiveness of the ethanol. Since &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85#Use_in_flexible-fuel_vehicles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ethanol has less energy per unit&lt;/a&gt; than gasoline (petrol), it requires more of it to produce the same amount of power out of the engine. The flex-fuel models have a way (depends on the vehicle manufacture as to the &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt;) to discover what type of fuel is being used and adjust the amount of fuel which is injected. If you are running E85 in a car which is not setup for it, your power output will be way down as compared to running E10. There are other factors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect your vehicle, use E10 if it is not registered as a flex-fuel model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T12:01:38.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T14:37:37.513" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this car used 3 yrs ago. Previous owners spun bearings in motor and replaced with 03. I had numerous issues with the cooling system and overheating since I purchased. I replaced water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator, did flush, put in a sealant. Drove fine for a while. Recently, intake gasket leak led to me spinning bearings in motor and waterlocking. I completed motor swap. Now has 97 motor, new everything in cooling system, radiator, water pump, coolant temp sensor, air intake sensor, ambient air sensor. If I run it with a thermostat it overheats quickly, take it out and it overheats while stopped at an idle. Unplug sensor and fans come on. Before replacing coolant temp sensor fans would come on at 212 sometimes, not always, engine gets close to overheat. We have been tinkering with it for a month. Not driving it currently. A zillion codes reading, from abs sensors also all new, to engine new engine sensors and code reader shows temp of -39. I verfied by vin that all sensors and parts are indentical from my old 99 to the new 97, only thing different so far is alternator which isnt an issue since mounting brackets were changed. This car seems to be back at the exact point where I was when I originally purchased it. Could it be they never had computer reprogrammed? At my wits end, only thing I haven't changed is the computer. Could it be due to new motor not matching up with computer specs? Do I need to change computer or just have it reprogrammed to fit new motor? What is an ECU? Is ECM and PCM the same? Where is the PCM located on a 99 Grand Prix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T20:13:54.337" Title="1999 Grand Prix Issues" Tags="|sensor|fan|overheating|grand-prix|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T16:31:49.513" Score="2" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an exhaust and I was putting it on my car (2013 wrx) and had to disconnect the exhaust after the midpipe. The bolts were rusted so I PB blasted them, and then got one set of bolts off. When I went to the next set I stripped the head of one of the bolts with my wrench and now it can't grip the bolt at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to get this bolt out that does't involve heating or any sparks like a grinder due to the close proximity to the gas lines? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking a nut splitter and if that doesn't work make a flat head screwdriver groove in the bolts with a hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7409" OwnerDisplayName="jgr208" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:25:21.050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:25:21.050" Title="2013 Subaru WRX - Stripped exhaust bolt" Tags="|exhaust|subaru|rust|stuck-bolt|wrx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13051" CreationDate="2014-11-03T17:18:39.147" Score="11" ViewCount="51256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't see an existing question about this but please link to it if you know of one ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should point out I'm English and the products described are bought in the UK, in case it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 1971 Morris Traveller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always used DOT4 brake fluid with this, and another car of similar age, with no troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However recently I bought another brand of DOT 4 brake fluid whcih had the word &quot;Synthetic&quot; written on it. Hmm. I don't think my usual supplier's bottles has this word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After topping up with the new brand, a few days later the brake master cylinder gave way such that the pedal didn't operate any brakes (little/no resistance) but no fluid was leaking from amywhere. As a result  I nearly had a nasty accident. Fortuately owing to a bit of luck the car and I escaped unharmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a few possibilities :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1) The reason I had to top the Master Cylinder up in the 1st place was a hint at impending troubles, and the new brand of brake fluid has ntohing to do with this.&#xA;or .. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2) Mixing the DOT 4 and DOT 4 synthetic has caused some issue with the rubber seals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3) something I haven't thought of and won't know til I get it all apart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I don't want to be mixing fluids wrongly but I also don't want to go replacing the brake system unnecesarily either !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anoyone used DOT4 synthetic &amp;amp; DOT4  'doesn't mention synthetic' at all ? Are they ok to mix together ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for all help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T06:20:31.537" Title="Mixing DOT 4 with DOT 4 synthetic" Tags="|brakes|braking|brake-fluid|dot4|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T17:20:21.310" Score="1" ViewCount="5961" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frontal impact vehicle is there fan motor touches the oil cooler,oil cooler slight impact is there, in coolant tank oil and coolant mixed, what are the reasons to mix the coolant and oil in this situation. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTAeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWlIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;coolant tank![oil cooler damage photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7411" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T04:52:30.347" Title="What are the reasons to mix oil &amp; coolant?" Tags="|engine|oil|troubleshooting|coolant|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13009" CreationDate="2014-11-03T17:46:12.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it from the wording, English is not your first language. To answer you outright, there is no reason to mix coolant and oil, under no situation where a vehicle is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are actually asking why oil would be fed through something containing coolant (radiator or such), the reason would be simple in that it is cooling the oil. By cooling the oil, the oil will stay viable longer as well as it will not want to build up sludge as much. It will also be able to cool the engine better, which means the engine itself will last longer. Using an oil cooler works especially well for supercharged or turbo-charged engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take it via the accident, the oil cooler was damaged in some way and it is now allowing oil to flow freely into the coolant? If so, about the only thing you can do is replace the oil cooler. You could possibly pick up a used one from an auto recycler for a lot cheaper than you could purchase one new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T17:46:12.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13006" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:00:55.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vise grips not an option? Crank them down pretty tight, and it should turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7412" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:00:55.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:11:13.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_fluid/page1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this description&lt;/a&gt; of synthetic based brake fluids. According to the page, all brake fluids are technically &quot;synthetic&quot; in that they are man made and do not contain a petroleum base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Synthetic&quot; brake fluid, as we think of it, has a silicon base. Non-synthetic brake fluid (normal brake fluid) is glycol based. There are trade offs to each type. Silicon brake fluid does not absorb water, like glycol based fluid. It does however, absorb air, which makes it somewhat compressible. This gives the brakes a spongy feel to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic brake fluid should not be mixed with glycol based fluids. The article says you should wait until you need to do major maintenance (replacing large portions of your braking system) before you switch. When you switch from glycol, you should completely flush your system of the old fluid. It may take several &quot;tries&quot; to get it completely cleaned out of the former fluid before you attempt to utilize the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I don't know if the mixing caused the issues you experienced, but it seems to me it is plausible. Does it mean you need to completely change out your system? I don't think so at this point. I think if you went back to using glycol based brake fluid and completely re-bled your system, you'll probably be okay. I would do this before trying to purchase any new parts. Also, when you do change out the fluid, make sure you do some low speed testing of the vehicle in a controlled environment (such as an empty road or parking lot) prior to putting a lot of trust in the braking system again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Brake_Fluid/brake_fluid_long.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; which gives a lot of further information about brake fluids, especially where classic British motor cars are concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I did go back and reread the second article which is mentioned above. It reads thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you do decide to convert to silicone fluid, it should be done as part of a total brake system overhaul, with freshly rebuilt or new calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. &lt;strong&gt;Silicone fluid should not be added to a system that contains even small amounts of glycol fluid or contaminants. Merely bleeding the system is not enough, as there will be pockets of old fluid and sludge that will not bleed out.&lt;/strong&gt; Silicone fluid tends to concentrate any residual glycol fluid, moisture and sludge into slugs instead of allowing their dispersal throughout the fluid, as does glycol fluid. This can lead to relatively severe but localized problems, rather than the more general system deterioration experienced with old moisture-laden glycol fluids. This may be a factor in reports of leakage when silicone fluid is used in non-rebuilt systems that had been operated with glycol fluid. A &quot;new&quot; system full of silicone fluid will require very little maintenance for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, don't mix the two. Only bad results can occur from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T18:38:13.277" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:38:13.277" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12986" CreationDate="2014-11-03T21:20:24.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tyre pressures quoted by the manufacturer are optimal for best service from any tyre. If a tyre is run at a low or very low pressure then what happens is an increase in the flexing of the tyre wall. This extra flexing of the tyre wall destroys the tyre from the inside and is not visible on a mounted tyre. It is dangerous to drive on a flat or near flat tyre because of this. In the event of a puncture or run-flat event, the tyre must be removed from its wheel and carefully checked internally before being used on the road again. In passing, a tyre which has had a puncture repair is then re-classified as an 'S' load index rated tyre. Direct TPMS sensors inside the tyre are extremely reliable and accurate and should not be dis-regarded when illuminating. In-direct TPMS are less sensitive due to thier measuring the differance in slip angle of the tyres rotation (say 'wheel rotational speed') to the other tyres using the vehicles ABS sensors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T21:20:24.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22536" CreationDate="2014-11-03T23:10:30.233" Score="6" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two years ago, my grandfather gave us his old '95 Prizm when he bought a new car.  A few weeks ago, I decided that the old headlight bulbs were too dim and I replaced them with new ones.  The light output is vastly improved, but with that change I noticed two other issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left headlight shakes up and down terribly with the vibration of the engine. This is mostly noticeable when the car is idling or accelerating at around 1000-1500 RPM (estimated) because the engine vibrates the most at those speeds, but it is vibrating a bit all the time.  It looks to me like tightening the outboard (vertical) adjustment screw will fix this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The right headlight is pointing significantly upward. Interestingly, based on seeing other Prizms and Corollas at night, I think that this is actually an extremely common problem.  I know that it is extremely annoying to other drivers, and it also means that I'm wasting light illuminating the trees instead of the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the service manual for the car, and it says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using a No. 2 cross-recess screwdriver, aim the headlights ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I tried to use several different screwdrivers, but I can't get the adjustment mechanisms to turn!  Is there some trick I'm missing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that a &quot;#2 Phillips&quot; screwdriver did not work because it isn't wide enough, but it's hard to find a true &quot;cross-recess&quot; driver -- as I understand it, this is like a Phillips #2, but with little or no tapering toward a point. (Or should a regular Phillips #2 work here?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4393" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:23:03.067" Title="How do I aim the headlights of a '95 Geo Prizm?" Tags="|headlight|tools|geo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13009" CreationDate="2014-11-04T04:52:30.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for a second radiator to be present behind the main radiator, often to cool the transmission fluid.  If these fluids are mixing (water and transmission fluid), then both radiators have been damaged and are leaking their fluids together.  Both radiators will need to be removed and repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes coolant will appear in engine oil because the head gasket has 'blown' or broken, allowing coolant to enter the cylinder or oil to enter the water jacket.  The repair is to remove the head and replace the head gasket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the cause for mixed fluids is a cracked block, in which coolant and/or oil escapes the engine through the crack.  The repair is to replace the block because a cracked block cannot be repaired.  Normally you'll choose to replace the engine, since it's easier to swap the engine than disassemble an engine to swap its block.  Most people would just buy another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car HAS been in an accident, I would first try to identify the two fluids that are mixed.  Then I would check first for a cracked block, then check for broken radiators.  The third possibility, a blown head gasket, is unlikely to be caused by an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T04:52:30.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13006" CreationDate="2014-11-04T04:56:30.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd consider using a Dremel with an abrasive wheel. Yes, it will spark a bit but you should be able to protect the line with a rag or something. You can easily cut a slow with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7419" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T04:56:30.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7844" CreationDate="2014-11-04T05:16:37.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could simply have a bad sensor.  Or two bad sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test if your thermostat is functioning, start you car and let it idle while sitting motionless for about 5 minutes (longer on a cold day).  Meanwhile turn on your heater and heater blower (fan).  If the thermostat is bad (frozen in the closed position), it will not open after the engine warms up, and warm water will not be routed through the heater core, and you will not feel warm air blow on your face.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible for a thermostat to freeze in the open position, but I've never heard of it.  In that case, it would take longer than normal for your heater to warm your face.  Otherwise the car should function normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your radiator fan is electric, it also should start up once the engine warms up.  If not, probably that sensor is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I know of no way to test the sensors themselves other than to replace each sensor in question and see if the error code then goes away.  Such sensors sit in water and often fail after about 10 years of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T05:16:37.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13020" CreationDate="2014-11-04T07:24:13.140" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;MRF - 2 Wheeler Tyres - Nylogrip ZRY - 130/90 R15 (66P)&lt;/code&gt; What I can get out of this measurement is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MRF - tyre manufacturer company&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Wheeler Tyres - type of vehicle tyre will get install to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nylogrip ZRY - &lt;strong&gt;what is this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100/80 - &lt;strong&gt;what is this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R15 (66P) - &lt;strong&gt;what is this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if I use &lt;code&gt;90/90 tyre&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;100/80 tyre&lt;/code&gt; for my CBF Stunner 2009 model 17&quot; front RIM?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4166" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T17:38:58.293" Title="Understand the tyre measurement of my CBF Stunner 2009 model" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13019" CreationDate="2014-11-04T09:55:58.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylogrip ZRY is the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100/80 is the width in mm and 80 the height as a percentage of the width. Going to a 90/90 will change the arc profile and affect turn-in on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R15 means the wheel is 15 inches in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should ensure you meet the manufacturers criteria for tyres as insurance companies have been known to cause issues if you fit an incorrect tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T09:55:58.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13024" CreationDate="2014-11-04T10:20:34.360" Score="1" ViewCount="21307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still trying to figure out if my 1997 Mazda Lantis 323 GLX 1.8L DHOC Manual  is OBD 1 or 2.  It's supposedly similar to the Protege of the same year &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb0f48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;and it says on autozone&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to retrieve the trouble code(s), you must have the Mazda system selector 49 B019 9A0 and self diagnosis checker (a digital readout tool) 49 H018 9A1 or an equivalent OBD I compliant scan tool for 1990-95 (except 1994-95 626 with ATX and 1995 Protege and Millenia) models. For 1994-95 626 with ATX, 1995 Protege and Millenia and all 1996-98 Models, you must have an OBD I (1994-95 626 with ATX only) or OBD II compliant scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the connector looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mo79b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I spoke with my mechanic who said it's OBD1, but that doesn't really seem correct to me because I took a look at the scanner he uses, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-tool-shop.com/carman-scan-lite-p-230.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Carman Lite&lt;/a&gt;, and it doesn't support OBD1.  He uses a Mazda 17 bin to OBD2 adapter cable to connect, and web page for the scanner lists the following protocols:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Communication Protocol Compatibility&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 9141-2, ISO-14230,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;SAE J1850 (PWM, VPW) ,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;KWP2000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;CAN BUS Communication support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further down the page it lists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OBD-II (ISO 9142-2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OBD-II (SAE-J1850 VPW, PWM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;KWP-2000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;CAN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;SAE-J1587 for commercial vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it must be one of these, but I don't know which one... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T09:50:30.530" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T05:11:05.103" Title="Mazda Lantis 323 1997: OBDI or OBDII?" Tags="|tools|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T10:24:26.490" Score="6" ViewCount="30494" Body="&lt;p&gt;Side marker and full(high) beam working fine, but not dipped (low beam) headlights. Checked all fuses - ok. I looked at the cover of the fuse box above (pic below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U0ivG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Honda Accord 2005 under-bonnet fuse box Lid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which covers these fuses &amp;amp; relays:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbj4U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relays you can see only indicate fan controls, frost (!) and heating. Headlights are only shown in fuses F1,3,5 &amp;amp; 6 and as they are all fine I'm stumped what is causing the dipped main beam not to work. So I had someone switch the lights on and off from side to dipped main and a relay was clicking. Using feel I found the sound and vibration coming from the apparently sealed boxed section on the right of the bottom picture. After much wrangling, this covered portion of the fuse-box does not feel user-accessible even to replace a headlight faulty relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. IS the headlight relay inside this covered/almost sealed right side of the fuse box? If so how do you get to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bulbs are fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;J&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7410" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T23:50:32.560" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T22:54:56.883" Title="Honda Accord 2005 Headlight relay location" Tags="|honda|accord|lights|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13021" CreationDate="2014-11-04T11:37:05.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5&amp;amp;p=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an article&lt;/a&gt; which might help you where you need to go. Non-US vehicles have that funky connector on them instead of the standard OBDII DLC. There are four wires you need to connect from an OBDII style reader to your 17-pin port. One of these two diagrams should be the breakdown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbwKn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the FORScan forum&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkcEI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From the FORScan forum&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I know the writing is Cyrillic, but the pin-out should be evident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T11:37:05.160" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:43:14.853" Score="0" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a check engine on a 2001 Subaru Legacy for some time now. Went to mechanic to fix few other things and he told me the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter needs to be replaced. The catalytic converter was installed by the small dealership I got the car from around January this year. Assuming the emissions fault code is not due to the catalytic converter, can the O2 sensor trigger such a code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I bought a BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 Scan Tool and tried it today. Although the check-engine light went away after the serpantine belt was &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13032/vibrating-sound-and-shaking-when-turning-the-wheel-after-changing-timing-belt/13034?noredirect=1#comment16869_13034&quot;&gt;replaced&lt;/a&gt;, I checked with the tool and got &lt;strong&gt;Fault Code P0420&lt;/strong&gt;. And the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (picture attached) was showing 0.1V-0.3V. I cleared the codes and will see if it comes back in few days. Could the bad belt/wheelie trigger this error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHx8W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ve0qc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T03:03:26.553" Title="Can faulty O2 sensor cause omission check engine light?" Tags="|subaru|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2014-11-04T14:01:45.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes - a faulty O2 can make the Check Engine Light / MIL to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what the code is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:01:45.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:03:01.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem before and it turned out that the switch in the stalk failed in a way that prevented low beams from working, but not high beams.  The relays (as listed by others) would be my first place to look, but if you can get at the stalk connector, it's usually pretty easy to test the switch for proper operation (continuity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T17:03:01.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="495" CreationDate="2014-11-04T18:25:23.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great post, it really helped me solve the same problem.&#xA;I took some photos specific to the Nissan Note, I can send them if you want to expand the article.&#xA;My problem turned out to be a failed solder joint on the resistor board.&#xA;Firstly remove the glove box by taking out 5 screws (2 underneath and 3 on top) BLUE circles...&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9TvR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom screw location&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CwHzi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top screw locations&quot;&gt;&#xA;remove the glove box and look for the wires connected to the heater control module RED arrow&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yIF27.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;heater control module in situ&quot;&gt;&#xA;remove 2xTorx head screws holding the module in place&#xA;Remove the connector block.&#xA;Repair or change the module -mine had a failed solder joint!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWVf1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken solder joint&quot;&gt;//i.stack.imgur.com/eJSWX.jpg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7423" LastEditorUserId="7423" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T21:17:27.747" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T21:17:27.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13033" CreationDate="2014-11-04T19:57:17.467" Score="4" ViewCount="10645" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do manufacturers put warning on their spare tire/donuts?  Its usually something along the lines of &quot;Do not drive more that 50 miles.&quot;  I have definitely far exceeded 50 miles on a donut.  Not to mention exceeding it multiple times on multiple occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T17:34:33.787" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T17:34:33.787" Title="Why limit spare tire/donut mileage?" Tags="|spare-tire|donut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13034" CreationDate="2014-11-04T20:03:33.850" Score="2" ViewCount="6461" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Monday I went to the mechanic to replace a ripped timing belt (red arrow in the picture). He also replaced some wheelie that was damaged. He told me that green circled box in the picture was the timing belt, and not the ripped belt (red arrow). Now, after I picked the car there is a vibrating and shaking feeling from the wheels/steering wheel when I turn left or right. What is the belt in the red arrows? what is inside that box? And any idea what he could have messed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 2001 Subaru Legacy L. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJg89.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T21:07:13.870" Title="Vibrating sound and shaking when turning the wheel after changing timing belt?" Tags="|wheels|timing-belt|vibration|steering-wheel|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13031" CreationDate="2014-11-04T20:46:27.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a response to your question on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/how-long-can-you-really-use-your-spare-tire-7710515&quot;&gt;Popular Mechanics&lt;/a&gt; website. I think it gives some pretty good reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First, a temporary spare isn't as durable as a normal tire. The real strength of a tire comes from the plies—layers of steel and polyester underneath the rubber—and spares don't have as many plies as regular tires. A typical space-saver spare has only one layer of polyester in the sidewall and two belts of steel with a layer of polyester in the tread—about half as many plies as a normal tire. This greatly limits puncture resistance and cornering ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... these tires are narrower and have a smaller contact patch. This reduces the amount of traction for the tire, increasing stopping distances and making handling potentially unpredictable in emergency maneuvers. It also means ABS and traction control aren't as effective at keeping you out of danger. And you're not going to have the same ground clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus it goes on to talk about the differential if you are using a doughnut on the drive axle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because the spare is smaller than the opposing wheel on the same axle, it must turn faster to keep up with the speed of the car, making the differential work to account for the variation. It's as if the car is constantly in a turn. Leave the spare on long enough and the grease lubricating the differential will begin to break down, accelerating wear between the gears and the clutch plates if it's a limited-slip differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this adds up to one thing: utilize the spare as a means to get you to the shop to get your tire repaired or replaced. It doesn't do you any good to trust it further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T20:46:27.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13032" CreationDate="2014-11-04T21:05:26.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic did not steer you wrong (pun intended). The area with the red arrows is actually your &lt;em&gt;drive&lt;/em&gt; or serpentine belt, not your timing belt. What he replaced (besides the belt) was either an idler or tensioner pulley, which probably caused the belt's demise in the first place. The timing belt should be located under the cover which you have circled in green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I cannot tell you &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; why you are getting a vibration while turning, but am wondering if the power steering pump might have been damaged as well when the belt let go. While there is an outside chance of this, it is at least plausible. The other two possibilities I can think of are related. One being a belt which is too long was installed or the pulley which was replaced is not providing the correct tension on the belt. This would most likely cause squealing from the drive pulleys though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take it back to the mechanic and show him what's going on. He should be able to better tell you what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T21:05:26.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13032" CreationDate="2014-11-04T21:07:13.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The box marked in green is indeed the timing belt top cover. The belt you have marked with red arrows is the serpentine belt. The wheelie thing would be the serpentine belt tensioner. On your desription you have a problem with anything driven by the serpentine belt, and proberbly caused it to shred. Each item needs to be checked individually,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T21:07:13.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12788" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:16:40.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you're going to need to adjust the idle. look inside your repair manual for the idle speed adjustment section. you should be able to use a paper clip or jumper wire for the dlc part for getting it in diagnostics mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7425" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:16:40.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T23:35:37.493" Score="4" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the O-rings on my injectors (Mk1 Golf - K-Jet mechanical injection) and so will have them free from the engine block. I thought I should clean them at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there some chemical or product I can soak or rinse the injectors in to clean them? Or do I have to run something through them with pressure?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T20:05:19.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:05:19.670" Title="VW Mk1 Golf - Best way to clean injectors that are free from the engine block?" Tags="|fuel-system|vw|golf|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T08:19:45.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T04:09:05.533" Score="1" ViewCount="2191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW 2008 F 800 st and the oil looks watery. It stops pretty frequently after riding it around the block. When it stalls, after some hesitation, it will start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need an unbiased answer because the motorcycle is salvage. It does run just seems to give out soon after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not seem like the battery has anything to do with it. It feels like the bike shakes; we have escaped like noise from the motor, I wonder if it could be something simple like an oil change, all fluids or maybe even needs more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it has a slip on exhaust which is missing. I'm not sure if that's enough exposure for things to get inside; if so what possible things can go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7094" LastEditorUserId="6333" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T14:13:05.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T11:18:29.997" Title="Motorcycle stalls shortly after starting" Tags="|engine|electrical|motorcycle|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T05:05:55.147" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old battery left from the old car and I need a jump starter kit. It seems all jump starters have integrated motorcycle battery inside. &#xA;I curious whether jump starters with a place for a car battery exists?&#xA;It will be even better if they sold without the battery, so I can use my old battery (I save a lot of money on that since I'm in Siberia and to deliver jump starter here cost me twice of the price of the jump starter itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:36:44.137" Title="Do jump starts with a place for full-size car battery exist?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13043" CreationDate="2014-11-05T05:30:16.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't really need a kit for anything other than convenience. All you need is a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jump_start_(vehicle)#Jumper_cables_.28jump_leads.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jumper cables&lt;/a&gt;, which you can make or purchase, and you've got your jump starter right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also purchase a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trickle_charging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trickle charger&lt;/a&gt; to keep my jumping battery charged when not in use. If you really want to get fancy you can make a cart or a box for it, for easy storage/use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T05:30:16.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13042" CreationDate="2014-11-05T05:47:54.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I think of when I hear 'watery oil' is a bad head gasket. That could cause a lot of the issues you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;we have escaped like noise from the motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain what that means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wonder if it could be something simple like an oil change, all fluids or maybe even needs more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be a good idea to change the oil and certainly a good idea to check your fluid levels, but it is doubtful that your fluid levels (unless entirely missing) are causing your issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also it has a slip on exhaust which is missing. I'm not sure if that's enough exposure for things to get inside; if so what possible things can go wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The missing exhaust is not likely the cause of the issues you described here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T05:47:54.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2014-11-05T08:58:10.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soaking in WD-40 or equivalent will help, but the real final measure is first a blowtorch - even a cheap and not-very-powerful one will do - followed by impact wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can buy hydraulic tools but they will probably snap the bolt leaving you with one more problem to solve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T08:58:10.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12986" CreationDate="2014-11-05T09:03:37.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to give an answer to this question without knowing how much &quot;low&quot; means in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire is really flat or anyhow visibly low, I'd recommend against running it. Even a few miles driven carefully, which will probably represent no risk for you or other road users, may invisibly damage the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire is just a little on the low side, then I'd not worry about it and gently drive to the nearest service station.&#xA;I always carry in the car a 2$ very small pressure gauge. It's not precise at all, but it will help in these situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T09:03:37.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T18:41:16.763" Score="2" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get an impact wrench in there. Any idea if a standard 3/8&quot; 50 ft/lb air wrench will be strong enough to remove the fasteners needing to be removed to replace the brake pads and disk ? Could spend 4 times as much and get a 100ft/lb 1/2&quot; model ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7434" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T21:32:25.193" Title="Is an 50 ft/lb air wrench (not impact wrench) strong enough to remove brake assemblies" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2014-11-05T19:30:26.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's wrong with utilizing a regular socket wrench with the correct attachments? It is my experience if you utilize power equipment to reattach such fasteners, you will over tighten and quite possibly strip out the fasteners in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it take it off, quite possibly, depending on how much torque was applied to mount them in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T19:30:26.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2014-11-05T19:38:03.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The information &amp;amp; links posted by Paulster2 offer excellent explanation of what the various types of brake fluid are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few grade :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT3 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT5 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT5.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between them is a specificed standard regarding the boiling temperature, which rises as the DOT number rises, and amount of water absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are based on two materials: Glycol based (&quot;traditional&quot; brake fluid) and Silicone based. DOT5 is exclusively silicone based because only silicone meets the criteria specified by the DOT5 standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards mixing them:&#xA;Generally this is a bad idea, but the main thing warned against is mixing Silicone based fluid with Glycol. This thranslates to not mixing DOT 5 with any other DOT standard fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However mixing for example Glycol DOT3 with Glycol DOT4 would give unpredictable performance. Nowhere have I seen anything saying &quot;this is ok&quot;. I suspect the reason is that a mixture of formulations may give an unproven boiling temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One apparent red herring is the word &quot;Synthetic&quot; - Glycol based brake fluids may or may not claim to be &quot;synthetic&quot;. This doesn't necessarily relate to whether the fluid is glycol based or silicon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't mix the DOT ratings, unless you're adding a higher rating resulting in a raised boiling point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't mix glycol based and silicone based fluids (ie don't mix DOT 5 with any other rating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that axiom, you can mix brands of brake fluid for the same rating/base material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastEditorUserId="3902" LastEditDate="2017-02-23T12:55:39.600" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T12:55:39.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1192" CreationDate="2014-11-05T23:39:00.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personnally use Vehicle Fleet Manager 4.0 from Vinity Soft inc. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vinitysoft.com/fleet-management-software-4-0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vinitysoft.com/fleet-management-software-4-0/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you only have 5 vehicles to manage, it will only cost $89,95. It will do all you need and much more. It's the best among the few you mentionned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7435" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T23:39:00.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T02:33:44.953" Score="1" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Nissan Altima makes noise. It seems to me like there is something touches to a running fan. The noise starts as soon as I start driving and after 10-15 km the noise disappears. I know I need to change the brake pads and it does not seem that the noise comes from the worn pads as I heard such noise should stop when you hit brake. In my case the noise does not stop when I hit the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing to mention, the noise started after I changed the oil(Castrol) and the oil filter (mobil 1)&#xA;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7437" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T12:38:38.690" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T14:31:22.027" Title="My 2003 Nissan Altima makes noise" Tags="|nissan|noise|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12951" CreationDate="2014-11-06T03:36:30.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to make sure that the wires on your starter are tight. Also a bad ground can cause that to happen. I experienced something very similar in my Ford pickup. It ended up being the starter relay. It was bad and dragging. This was causing a dead short. My headlights were dimming when I turned the heater on though. Also a also if the relay is going bad it will affect the gauges. Another problem I had once before was a bad ignition switch was causing a short. Try the cheapest first. It seems like you are  have something that is shorting pretty bad. Usually you can find a short just by looking to see if any wires have gotten hot. You can tell if the insulation is a little distorted in shape. Also the ends of the connections will be discoloured and will corrode faster then the others.  The first thing I would check though is to make sure your ground wire for the battery isn't corroded or lose on the end that grounds to the vehicle. Check to make sure your starter wires didn't come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T12:33:38.780" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T12:33:38.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T12:30:10.360" Score="0" ViewCount="1907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a vibration in brakes took it back three times for this vibration. They eventually turned my rotors. It's still doing it, just not as bad and only when going down mountains. Van has only 20k miles as it is only 10 months old. It's not as bad, but it's still there. Are they being honest or should I have someone else look at it??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7439" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T14:52:20.247" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:21:25.400" Title="Vibration remains while braking even after machining rotors" Tags="|ford|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T15:06:17.293" Score="1" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yamaha SZR bike. It is making weird sound lately. It is making ''tyre air leak sound'' but it is not certainly from the tire. It makes sound after 20-30 minutes interval. Im far from service area. Please suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7443" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T22:58:37.927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T11:12:14.123" Title="''Tire air leaking sound''" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-30T16:36:06.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T14:49:13.480" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed the headlights on the 98 Honda accord 3 times already and the right one constantly fuses out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I start diagnosing the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" OwnerDisplayName="jackrabb1t" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T23:01:04.887" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T14:22:15.940" Title="Right head light in 98 honda accord fuses out regularly" Tags="|honda|headlight|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T18:42:55.290" Score="5" ViewCount="4557" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this may be so obvious that I'm &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; too embarrassed to ask; however, here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a high-end battery charger for my car which charges through the cigarette lighter receptacle. I want to use the charger on my motorcycle which has two (2) ports - one in a rear case and one on the front fairing. As a preliminary test, I plugged my phone charger into each port. The charger has a red light. With the motorcycle's ignition &quot;off&quot;, the red light does not light; it only lights when the bike is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in assuming that, since no power is outputted when the bike is shut off, no recharging will occur either? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Pat Coppolecchia" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T19:40:43.600" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T15:04:15.257" Title="Charging batteries thru cigarette lighter" Tags="|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13060" CreationDate="2014-11-06T18:53:54.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on make and model. Some cars come with cigarette/accessory power outlets that are keyed, some come with outlets that are always on, and some have both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keyed outlets switch on and off with the ignition switch position. That switch powers a relay that turns on power for most accessories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An always on outlet is a straight (fused) connection to the battery. You can get a kit for a few bucks at any auto store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out the exact wiring for your motorcycle,  find the wiring guide or schematic in the factory service manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T18:53:54.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2014-11-06T21:19:10.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought was to replace the serpentine belt.&#xA;My 2004 Escape is now 11 years old and still has the original drivetrain belt and I'm guessing its starting to slip some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7444" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T21:19:10.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13060" CreationDate="2014-11-06T22:35:36.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since there isn't a connection when the key is off, the battery isn't going to charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the float chargers I've seen, has several different attachment methods. With the one I had, it included a direct connect to the battery which had a quick disconnect. If the one you have doesn't have something like this, you can always pick up a separate one for about $20. Just plug it in when you're not riding the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T22:35:36.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13085" CreationDate="2014-11-07T00:28:34.603" Score="6" ViewCount="12665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanna change my tires for snow tires.&#xA;I don't want to buy them at my dealer but at Costco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can that void my Honda warranty ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:18:39.410" Title="does changing tires void warranty for a new car?" Tags="|tires|warranty|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T01:48:47.257" Score="3" ViewCount="2344" Body="&lt;p&gt;MY 2007 Honda Civic won't start unless I pull very hard on the steering wheel to the left. It will try to turn over but nothing happens until the wheel is turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7447" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T20:05:06.540" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T21:53:09.617" Title="2007 Honda Civic Will Not Start Unless Steering Wheel Is Turned To The Left" Tags="|honda|civic|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13064" CreationDate="2014-11-07T02:30:06.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this should not void your warranty as long as the replacement tires are the same size as the stock ones. I'm not even sure the size really matters that much (within reason). Something most people do with winter snow tires is buy a set of separate wheels and have the snow tires mounted on them, that way when you go to change back, you can change them at home versus having to go back to the shop to have the regular tires mounted and balanced again. Saves a lot of time and money in the long run. These wheels could be cheaper steel wheels with hub caps to save money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T02:30:06.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13073" CreationDate="2014-11-07T04:05:26.607" Score="4" ViewCount="2161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only drive during the weekends, so most of the time my car is always in the garage. I have not been able to buy myself an air compressor, so what I do is I always have my tires check at my local gas station, which is about a kilometer away from my house. Now I have experienced problems with my tires, even if they are just about a couple of months old, I seem to think this is because of the low tire pressure I always have when I have them checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am thinking if my short drive to the gas station affects my tire. I drive at around 20 - 40kph on average when going there. There are a couple of potholes along the way, but I don't drive over them at speed. Does the tire having problems with its beads related to the low tire pressure I get and I drive it to the gas station for about a km? My tire pressure is always 35psi, but I always get to see my car run on 28-30psi every start of the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really wondering why this is happening, the problems only arise when the car is left for a very long time(sometimes I only get to drive it around 1 a week, at dawn for about 3km then not use the car again for about a week).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:16:50.583" Title="Driving for about a kilometer with very low tire pressure" Tags="|toyota|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13056" CreationDate="2014-11-07T08:47:39.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be bad pads / uneven pad wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say it's only when going down mountains - are you riding the brakes regularly down the grade?  Don't do that! Downshift the car into a lower gear and allow the motor to help slow the car, only apply the brakes in brief spurts if you are moving too quickly. Lightly riding the brakes all the way down will cause the rotors to heat and the pads to overheat, potentially boiling the brake fluid as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pads overheat, they can then leave bits of pad deposit on &quot;hotspots&quot; on the rotors, and then when you use the brakes again later, they will pulse, which is what makes a rotor feel &quot;warped&quot; (and why simply machining down the surface fixes it -- the excess pad deposits are cut off by the lathe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a relatively new car, you shouldn't need new pads at 20k... but if you've put 20k miles on it in 10 months, you're obviously driving it &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;.  It's not completely inconceivable to need pads at 20k, but it's rare... unless you're towing or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7448" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T08:47:39.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13058" CreationDate="2014-11-07T11:12:14.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue could be a vacuum forming in the fuel tank (check vents), looking at the yamaha site, it doesn't look like you have any active cooling (fan/radiator) so unlikely to be that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may also be an air-hose leaking somewhere or possibly a vacuum leak from the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T11:12:14.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13042" CreationDate="2014-11-07T11:18:29.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running without an exhaust will cause the bike to run a little leaner.  if its already lean you may be overheating the engine (correct air/fuel mix also cools the cylinders) which in turn will affect the oil which will also affect the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watery oil to me means one thing, its broken down so is thinner than it should be and not lubricating how it should.  If it was water mixed in oil then it would be thicker and resemble mayonnaise in texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you describe the noise from the engine? is it a thumping noise (almost like a hammer), is the noise in time with the engine, or at half engine speed, or not related to engine speed at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change the oil and oil filter immediately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inspect the spark plugs for colour: white electrode/anode = lean burning; black and sooty = too rich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add an exhaust as soon as you can - this will help the engine disperse heat better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T11:18:29.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T11:34:07.100" Score="-1" ViewCount="3401" Body="&lt;p&gt;A normal average European car has a engine with less than a 2.0 liter engine which consumes 1 litre of fuel in 18-22 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal average American car has a engine at least a 2.5 liter engine and gets only 10-12 km with 1 liter of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;Diesel engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EUR: Ford Focus 1.5 Tdci with 120 HP (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford.co.uk/ConfigureyourCar/NewFocus/Studio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ford.co.uk/ConfigureyourCar/NewFocus/Studio&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USA: No diesel engine found (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford.com/cars/focus/specifications/engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ford.com/cars/focus/specifications/engine/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petrol engine (smallest engine found in USA is 2.0L):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EUR: Ford Focus euro model 1.0L Ecoboost 100 HP (30 km/l delcared)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USA: Ford Focus 2.0L Ecoboost 160 HP (30 mpg declared)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example SUV:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EUR: AUDI Q7 3.0 TDI 245 HP (14 km/l declared)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EUR: LAND ROVER 3.0 Diesel TDV6 249 HP (15 km/l declared)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USA: JEEP 3.0L EcoDiesel V6 Engine 240HP (the last model 30mpg, probably fiat engine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USA: GMC TERRAIN 3.6L Petrol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bring some modern examples but if we go some years in the past the gap would be really bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I am just curios about this difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Right diesel to diesel I mean, that is correct as Paul suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: the above is just an example, I can bring dosen of examples of cars of same category showing the gap of efficency between usa and europe cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: one of the most common compact car in USA: AMC Pacer X has a 4.2L engine with just 130Hp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2421" LastEditorUserId="2421" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T21:49:47.513" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T21:49:47.513" Title="Why are American cars less efficient compared to european European/Japan cars" Tags="|fuel-consumption|motors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="19" ClosedDate="2014-11-09T18:28:16.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13068" CreationDate="2014-11-07T12:45:12.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the short amount of driving you do prior to getting them refilled is not going to cause the tire itself any problems. The biggest problem you'll see with tires which are run low is the amount of heat build-up in the rubber. Not only is the low pressure not really that low, the distance you drive is not enough to cause you worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I'd suggest you have a slow leak (obviously). There are only two places where you can have a slow leak, discounting an outright hole in the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first place is the valve stem. If these were not replaced the last time tires were installed (except for Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems - TPMS), the shop did you a disservice. New ones should be placed each time to ensure there aren't any problems for the life of the tire. These could possibly leak through the valve core (schraeder portion) or where they seal to the rim. TPMS valve stems could possible have issues, but are usually more robust than regular normal ones. These are much more expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second place is where the tire seats on the rim. If this area was not cleaned correctly, has corrosion, a leak could form there. If lube/sealant (many tire shops here in the states use soapy water) was not used during the installation process, this could also lead to a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the leak itself, I'd suggest your tires are leaking at the rim. Something a lot of people don't realize is that the act of driving helps to keep the tires sealed on the rim. When the tire is ran down the road, there is a certain amount of heat build-up (as I already suggested) in the tires. This softens the rubber just a little bit and allows it to become more &lt;em&gt;fluid&lt;/em&gt; (for a lack of a better word). This fluidity means that the tire is pliable and will move where needed to flow around the rim and remain round. Mind you, this isn't big amount. Just enough to help keep the tire sealed on the rim. When a vehicle sits for a longer period of time, the tire starts to incur a flat spot. This flat spot also transfers to where the rim meets the bead of the tire. Very small gaps can occur at these spots, which can cause the small air leak. Again, these are not large gaps, be enough for air to escape. Another thing to think about is that as a tire has less and less air pressure in it, it has a propensity to leak faster. So, your tires may leak down 5psi each week (if left alone for a long length of time) until it gets to say 15psi, then drop down to nothing by the next week. (This is an exaggeration to make the point). Just by keeping the pressure up in the tires, you'll shouldn't run into this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line here is, you can do two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, drive the car more. In my opinion, this is where the main problem lies. This also helps against dry rot cracks forming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, you can possibly take it to a tire shop and have the tires reseated (break the bead, throw some soapy water sealant around the rim, and reseal the tires). This would probably incur the cost of the reseat, plus the added bonus of having to have them rebalanced. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T12:45:12.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13072" CreationDate="2014-11-07T13:03:37.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.caranddriver.com/the-10-most-fuel-efficient-gas-and-diesel-cars-for-sale-today/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in this Car and Driver article&lt;/a&gt; from March of this year. You'll notice what the number one mileage car on the road today is (other than hybrids/electric) ... That's right, an &lt;strong&gt;AMERICAN&lt;/strong&gt; Chevrolet Cruze at 46mpg (or ~20km/l). This beats out Japanese and European cars alike. You'll notice the Cruze has a 2l diesel engine, like the &quot;average European&quot; car you mention. As I mentioned in my comment, compare apples-to-apples and you'll find your premise is way off base. And remember, the internet has a vast amount of information. Use it wisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T13:03:37.963" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13072" CreationDate="2014-11-07T13:17:51.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2's comment on your post is absolutely correct. The difference between diesel and petrol is so huge, it completely overshadows the differences between cars in various regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is historical precedence for different typical power/fuel consumption figures in these regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US has long had very cheap fuel, cheap land and extensive heavy industry - which means a simple option for increasing power was to build a bigger engine. This requires more fuel, and often larger vehicles, but building long, straight, wide roads in the US was relatively cheap and convenient (low population density, often farmland or large expanses of plains) - so a 6 litre V8 is not uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe, on the other hand, has higher population density, narrower, twisty roads, and very expensive fuel. Like Japan, this has led to development of higher power density engines, which is why you have ended up with small turbocharged engines around the 2 litre size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small engines use less fuel, in general, so the legacy is what has driven the two regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days there is a general move towards smaller engines, hybrids etc, as everyone now sees the rising cost of fuel, but Europe and Japan are still leading the way; Audi for diesels, and Honda (I think it is still) for petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T13:23:58.617" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T13:23:58.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13066" CreationDate="2014-11-07T15:53:09.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only thing I can think of that could affect the engine itself in this way is the power steering pump. Meaning the starter couldn't turn the engine because the belt can't turn the power steering pump. Check the pump fluid level and the fluid itself. If the steering is not very heavy and the pump doesn't make noise it could be some sort of a hydraulic lock, though that would be quite weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T15:53:09.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T18:35:23.710" Score="1" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my car's fuel pump and battery replaced when I was experiencing very similar symptoms. Car turns over strongly but does not start. I'm wondering if this could be due to poorly done work on the fuel pump, or if there could be an unrelated cause this time. I've tried hooking up a battery pack to eliminate the battery as a possible cause, and it still doesn't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it could be related to spark plugs, but they are only around 30K km old. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6649" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T23:49:06.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T23:49:06.573" Title="1994 Mazda 323 turns over vigorously but won't start" Tags="|starting|mazda|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:40:44.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13082" CreationDate="2014-11-07T19:27:52.663" Score="3" ViewCount="4867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix.  The horn stopped working recently.  I have checked the fuses, and they are fine (there are two for the horn).  When I press the horn, I hear a little clicking sound coming from the fuse box.  Interestingly, when I remove either of the two horn fuses, I do not hear this clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I go from here to figure out what is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7451" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T12:48:36.720" Title="toyota matrix horn not working" Tags="|toyota|matrix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13056" CreationDate="2014-11-07T19:36:15.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be any number of things honestly...  I honestly doubt it is the brake pads.  But as @ZPrime notes, riding the breaks can generate crazy heat and that could screw up the wheel bearings pretty quickly.  At any rate, I think the most likely causes are wheel bearings, tie rod ends or other suspension components or bad wheel balance.  It could also be a frozen caliper (leading to unequal pad pressure) but I think that isn't likely on a newer car.  Also not likely but possible is rotors were turned improperly (i.e. the machined surface is no longer parallel to the plane of rotation of the rotor) or the rotor was not installed true to the hub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T19:36:15.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2014-11-07T19:41:24.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To actually answer the question, no, 50 ft lbs won't be strong enough.  Typical brake caliper (you need to remove the caliper to remove the disc) bolt torque is over a 100 ft lbs.  For example, 2003 Dodge Caravan caliper bolts are supposed to be torqued to ~125 ft-lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T19:41:24.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13078" CreationDate="2014-11-07T20:03:18.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Test the old horn by applying power directly. If it blows, you know it's the wiring between the relay (what makes the clicking noise) and the horn itself. If it doesn't blow, you need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now for a very basic question: how do I apply power to the horn directly? I am not experienced in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First find the horn. Second detach the main power lead going to the horn (it ground itself through the mount in most cases). Next, get a length of wire which you can attach to the positive side of your battery. The wire should be long enough to reach the horn. Apply the opposite end of the wire to the horn tab and see if noise erupts. &lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Do not touch this to any part of the car besides the horn tab or sparks will erupt and you could burn yourself. You only want to hold the wire on the horn tab long enough to see if there is noise. You should not get shocked from this as this is a low voltage application (if you don't believe me, put your two index fingers on the two battery posts ... nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the horn does make noise, you can use a multi-meter to test to see if there is power at the wire you just disconnected from the horn. You'd have to have someone press the horn button while you are looking at the multi-meter, but you should notice the needle swing over to 12vdc if you have it setup correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T20:03:18.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2014-11-07T21:32:25.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specified tightening torque can very greatly from vehicle to vehicle. Anywhere from 25-100 ft. lbs. Since brake calipers tend to be exposed to the elements, you will probably need a bit more to break it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T21:32:25.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13066" CreationDate="2014-11-07T22:12:24.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have something wrong with the starter kill anti-theft functions that reside within the steering wheel lock mechanism.  I would suggest taking it to the dealer for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:12:24.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13064" CreationDate="2014-11-07T22:18:39.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your warranty is actually pretty hard to Void even though many people talk about it.  The dealer will push back, but if you know your rights, you will win every time so long as you are within reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest reading about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act&quot;&gt;Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act&lt;/a&gt;  which specifically states that modding a vehicle doesn't void the warranty unless that part can be proven to be the cause of a break down [sic]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, changing out for snow tires will not void your warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:18:39.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13056" CreationDate="2014-11-07T22:21:25.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When ever you turn rotors, you should replace and re-embed new pads too.  If you didn't do that, you still perhaps have a mis-matched groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heavy vehicle going down mountains will eat brakes like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:21:25.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-08T01:22:52.063" Score="1" ViewCount="7074" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light is on. Shop failed the car for NY state inspection. Says I have a bad coolant fan relay. Where would this relay be located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7454" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T12:21:44.917" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T16:45:03.553" Title="Where is the coolant fan relay on a 2001 Monte Carlo SS" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13087" CreationDate="2014-11-08T12:38:15.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Monte Carlo has two separate fuse blocks. One inside the cabin of the car and one under the hood. If you pop your hood, you should see something which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMrt3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture, the relays are going to be under the left side panel. They are the three which are lined up on the right side of that block (this is relative to the picture ... orient the picture to your fuse block in car). One of those relays is going to be bad. It should be a square block which is either grey or black. When you pull it out, it should have four tangs on the underside which plugs into the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T12:38:15.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-08T22:40:04.040" Score="5" ViewCount="2436" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is Joel from Sydney and I'm trying to diagnose a strange problem on my bike. Apologies if this is the wrong forum to be asking this question I'm new to this forum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike: GSXR K5 1000&#xA;Mods: Air-horn, Scorpio i900 Alarm, Akrapovic Carbon Slip-on, K&amp;amp;N Air Filter, Gilles Rear-Set, Aftermarket screen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms: If you have been riding the bike for most of the day, on a hot day (say 30C), the bike will sometimes turn off meaning that the engine stops the taco drops but all dashboard lights remain and no FI codes. Sometimes you get a few semi-stops before it does this where the power momemtarily drops out. It has been happening on and off for a while now (probably two years) but was previously so rare I didn't investigate it further. It can now be triggered relatively consistently. When it turns off the temperature of the engine will be around 100-105C (in the normal range) generally, sometimes even lower. If you attempt to start it straight away the starter motor will just click and then if you turn it off and then on after some minutes it will fire up again. The problem generally re-occurs if you try and keep riding after it has happened once unless you leave it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we have tried to fix: &#xA;Performed a full service, checked valve clearances, replaced air filter, tightened all screws and checked everything around airflow and general bike cleanup. Also recently replaced the clutch cable. As far as I can tell the airflow is flowing perfectly well and the bike cools rapidly when accelerating, and the fan is coming on at around 104 as it should. Also checked the kickstand and ended up modding it slightly so there is a higher lean angle and so it doesn't bounce around and gave it a good clean. My mate who is far more knowledgeable than me gave it a really thorough clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suspect it is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air Intake Temperature sensor might be faulty and when the air is very hot inside the airbox it is sending an incorrect amount of fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air Pressure Sensor likewise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I considered killswitch sensor but I'm not sure the symptoms match&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I saw some people have had ECU issues but it seems weird an ECU problem would be so heat related&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With custom wiring possibly either the alarm or air-horn is shorting something when they get hot but this also doesn't seem to match the symptoms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice of what to check? I'm a super-noob at these things. I tried checking the forums and while some people have had similar symptoms I didn't see anything that matched what I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7460" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T18:42:57.077" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T08:45:39.467" Title="GSXR 1000 K5 turns off on hot days" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|gsxr|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13096" CreationDate="2014-11-09T04:34:45.183" Score="3" ViewCount="54935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have both P1166 and P1167 error codes on my 2001 Honda Accord (F23A4 engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed the P1166 by replacing the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For about a day, everything looked wonderful (i.e. no &lt;code&gt;check engine&lt;/code&gt; light on). &#xA;Then, (after a day), the dreaded &lt;code&gt;check engine&lt;/code&gt; light turned on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used my OBDII device to check the code. It's &lt;strong&gt;P1167&lt;/strong&gt; now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling this code raised the possibility of fuse #6 (15A) blown. I checked that fuse. It's 100% perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be the cause for this P1167 code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7016" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-09T10:18:16.217" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T02:08:39.000" Title="How to fix P1167 in a 2001 Honda Accord, with a F23A4 engine" Tags="|honda|accord|cel|dtc|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2014-11-09T12:09:08.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor 1 is installed in the exhaust system and detects oxygen content in the exhaust gas. The A/F sensor transmits output voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). &lt;em&gt;A heater for the sensor element is embedded in the A/F sensor (sensor 1). If the A/F sensor (sensor 1) voltage is low, the air/fuel ratio is lean, and the ECM uses A/F feedback control to issue a Rich command. If the A/F sensor (sensor 1) voltage is high, the air/fuel ratio is rich, and the ECM uses A/F feedback control to issue a Lean command.&lt;/em&gt; The heater element is fused by fuse F6 as you say, but this fuse operates a relay. The relay may not be working. I dont have a diagram for this relay location, but it may be in your vehicles handbook. The check light went out possibly because you cancelled the code with your tester/scanner. Once the ECU ran its test on the A/F sensor the ECU found it faulty and turned it back on. Definitely the fault is on the heater side of the A/F sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T12:09:08.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13054" CreationDate="2014-11-09T12:36:50.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various Nissan models, and other vehicles, have an Extra Air Pump (EAP). When the engine is first started from cold the oxygen sensors are running cold and not up to operating temperature. To control any emissions whilst cold an EAP runs to pump air into the exhaust to help clean it up until the oxygen sensors are fully working, you may have a noisy pump. (Always worth a check over at a repair shop or with a mechanic to make sure though.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T12:36:50.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-09T14:57:52.967" Score="5" ViewCount="2615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out why the power lock is not working in one of the doors of a 2004 Buick Rendezvous, unfortunately I don't really understand how the power lock system works.  There are two connectors attached to the lock mechanism, one near the top and one lower down. The connector near the top has three thin wires, red, black and blue with white stripe. The lower connector has two thicker wires, olive (greenish) and tan (brownish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the lock/unlock buttons are pressed, I can measure continuity between the blue with white stripe wire and ground (chassis). No other wires seem to be connected to ground, or each other no matter the state of the lock/unlock switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to determine if the problem is with the actuator or the wiring, before I just start throwing money at the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to find any schematics online, nor was I able to locate the Haynes repair manual for this vehicle. I'm basically working in the dark on this, and would appreciate any assistance I can get.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additional information:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/7873/511&quot;&gt;installation manual for the remote start module&lt;/a&gt; (installed before I owned the vehicle), lock works via a negative trigger through a 470 ohm resistor, while unlock is a negative trigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lock/unlock feature of the remote start is not hooked up, so I don't suspect that could have caused the failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T20:29:38.013" Title="How do the power locks work in a 2004 Buick Rendezvous?" Tags="|locks|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2014-11-10T09:05:25.880" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using D3 in areas that are signed 40MPH or less eliminates a lot of shift changes between the various higher speeds on your transmission.  If the road is signed 40 MPH and under, I always use the D3 button.  I also use it if there is ice or snow on the roadway, but the main thing is the wear and tear on a transmission trying to go up a hill or around a curve in a very high gear which is hard on engine and transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7471" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T09:05:25.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="862" CreationDate="2014-11-10T14:55:32.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an engine, there is a specific peak pressure that it can withstand, which is limited my the mechanical stress limit of the components of the engine parts. This peak pressure is in direct relation to the compression ratio of the engine and the octane rating of the fuel. The compression ratio of the engine stays constant. With a low Octane rating, there will be misfires happening at an undesired position of the piston, leading to drop in the power extraction from that stroke, and undesirable detonation points in the combustion chamber which leads to melting and cracking of cylinder head and engine liners. Too much octane rating makes the mixture more resistant to compression, leading to the escape of much of unburnt gases to escape during the exhaust stroke leading to drop in the efficiency. So for any engine there will be a specific octane rating mentioned by the manufacturer and it should be used for maximum efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7475" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T14:55:32.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-10T19:08:41.750" Score="2" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some issues with my 1991 Honda ST1100 that I, nor my mechanic, can't seem to figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started with some kind of bang, probably because of a hole in the road. Then, whenever I had to brake, it had a pulsating feel to it, but it was still relatively mild. I took it to my mechanic, who said that the front wheel bearings needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up the bike a couple of days later, after the wheel bearings had been replaced. The mechanic warned me that the bike still had some mild issues that he can't really put his finger on. He said that he suspects the front tire to be the culprit, but this doesn't really make sense to me, because a front tire isn't &lt;em&gt;suddenly&lt;/em&gt; going to start causing instability issues. I'm the last one to deny that tyre &lt;em&gt;choice&lt;/em&gt; can make a great deal of difference on a motorcycle, but once a tyre is on it, the behaviour of the motorcycle won't really change (unless you've got under- or overinflated tyres, of course).  If the front tire was the issue, it should have either always been there or have come very gradually. He insisted that the bike was certainly safe to ride. I have my doubts about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'mild issues' that he mentioned, were &lt;strong&gt;much worse than my original complaints&lt;/strong&gt;. The bike is &lt;strong&gt;really unstable&lt;/strong&gt; now; the &lt;strong&gt;back of the bike seems to 'float'&lt;/strong&gt; (this started only after the repair; there was nothing like it before it), while the &lt;strong&gt;front of the bike is very shaky whenever I put more weight on the front tire (by using the front brake) or less weight on it (by using the rear brake&lt;/strong&gt;, most often in slow-speed riding). This also wasn't there before the repair; the only thing that was there was a pulsating feel when braking. My passenger also complained about a mild wobble at highway speeds (70 mph) and said that she felt really unsafe. Coming to a stop is quite hard too; due to the instability and the front wheel shaking, it is really hard to come to a controlled stop. Driving slowly in traffic is almost impossible; the shakiness is really uncontrollable. Using the rear brake, normally a good thing for low-speed control, makes it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me a while to realise that this is indeed a serious issue (I really wanted to believe that the mechanic solved my problem, rather than made it worse), but I've now decided that I want to figure out first what is wrong and how to fix it, rather than take unnecessary risks with a bike with stability issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any suggestions as to what the cause of this rather mysterious problem could be, I'd be very grateful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="3474" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T20:10:42.467" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T20:10:42.467" Title="Honda ST1100 instability problems" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|stability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-24T19:52:02.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-10T20:51:48.077" Score="3" ViewCount="2498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Nissan Altima and when I turn off the engine, you can literally hear the engine stuttering out. Before, you turned off the motor and it stopped silently.  Now it goes plup, pluuup, pluuuuuup and only then is it out.  Any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T01:23:23.097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T01:32:08.467" Title="Car diesels after shutoff" Tags="|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2014-11-10T22:32:45.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like what is called &quot;dieseling.&quot;  Basically, you are getting continued combustion even without the spark plugs firing.  This can happen when the engine is dirty and/or hot, and fuel continues to flow to the cylinders.  You car is fuel injected which means after you turn it off, the fuel supply should also be cutoff.  However, if the injector nozzle is leaking, fuel can continue to enter the cylinder for a time and that could be the cause.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, there could be any number of causes and you really ought to take the car to a qualified mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T22:32:45.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T01:08:27.647" Score="3" ViewCount="38467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a pretty old car (Nissan Pulsar J1J 1991 auto, 203K kms on the odometer) and it drives pretty well - I'm using it on a roadtrip across New Zealand and have taken it on pretty mountainous terrain without much issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one issue I'm having with the car though is that when I try to start it in the morning (or after 5+ hours after the car was last driven), I'll need to step on the gas to get it to start. I've gotten the battery replaced very recently (about 2 weeks ago) and that didn't help any. In the mornings, the temperature is close to freezing but the problem has happened in the middle of the day too if the car hasn't been started in a while. It seems to be getting gradually worse, as the past couple of times I've had to try 2-3 times with stepping on the gas before I can get the car to start properly. Often, I'll also have to gently press on the gas periodically while the car is idling and warming up or the engine dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time this happened I had a half tank of gas. I haven't been paying much attention to the gas level though, but I will in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm selling the car in about 4 weeks so am taking it in to get a full servicing. In the meantime though, any ideas what the issue could be? I'd like to be able to tell the mechanic what to look out for, as I'm sure they'll be rushing through everything on the service checklist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7482" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T09:25:54.307" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T13:31:51.407" Title="Having difficulty starting car in the morning/first start after a while" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2014-11-11T01:32:08.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm also thinking there is crud built up in your engine. Prior to taking it to a mechanic, there's something you can try first. Pick up two cans of &lt;a href=&quot;http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seafoam&lt;/a&gt;. The first can, dump into your fuel tank. The second can you are going to have to do some work with. First, this is a two person job. Second, pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster (not from the engine side). If you have a small funnel, put it into the end of the vacuum hose. Have someone start the car. They will probably need to rev the engine during the next part, but only enough to keep it running. With the engine running, &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; dump about 1/2 of the can into the funnel and let it get sucked up by the engine. This will cause volumes of white smoke, but not to worry. This is normal. When you get down to about 1/2 to 1/3 of the can left, dump the rest into the funnel and as soon as it is sucked in, have your helper shut the car off. Let the engine sit for about 10-15 minutes. After the wait is over, start the car back up. This may be a little difficult and again will cause a bunch of smoke. Keep the engine running until the smoke disappears. You have now successfully completed a Seafoam treatment. This will clean all of the carbon out of the intake tract, from the valves, and from the combustion chamber. This should eliminate your dieseling issue. If it doesn't, then it's time to take it to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T01:32:08.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7479" CreationDate="2014-11-11T01:33:35.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the new rotors and pads were the answer. I'm surprised that the EBC OEM replacements gave me so much trouble, but the new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and slotted rotors have been wonderful. Even with my typical hard braking, no noise, and better performance, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for the delayed answer. I became sidetracked and completely forgot about this question, but now that I'm back on StackExchange, I noticed I never answered it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3885" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T01:33:35.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13091" CreationDate="2014-11-11T08:31:39.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description I'd suspect an electrical fault. Maybe a fine crack in a circuit or a broken soldered joint. With enough heat the gap opens enough to break the circuit. You could try swapping components from another bike to help isolate the problem in a process of elimination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T08:31:39.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2014-11-11T14:28:39.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your lambda sensor(oksygen sensor) is broken, it normally got symptoms like. when idle the rpm jumps back and forth, could even choke the engine in some cases! High fuel usage, bad smell from the exhaust, and generally runs bad. you might experience that your car is running smooth when cold, but when getting some heat its back to how it was, this is because the lambda sensor/oksygen sensor wont start &quot;doing its job&quot; until it reaches a certain temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for bad grammar :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7484" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:28:39.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T20:26:28.340" Score="3" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a TACH LEAD on this picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDryW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T20:33:35.437" Title="What is a TACH LEAD?" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13120" CreationDate="2014-11-11T20:33:35.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the wire that goes to the tachometer to show you the RPM of the engine. It's one pulse per spark. You set the number of cylinders on tach and it's then divides by that number to display the RPM of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T20:33:35.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13114" CreationDate="2014-11-12T01:04:34.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter not allowing enough fuel through to the carb bowl. Once it's started and warmed up, there will always be gas in the carb line, so it will keep the bowl fed, and the car will always have gas to run. It takes a while for the engine, carb, etc. to cool down, so letting it sit for short periods of time won't affect it, but longer periods, like the 5+ hours you mentioned will allow it to cool enough that you will need to start all over again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7487" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T09:25:18.670" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T09:25:18.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2014-11-12T01:12:26.737" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;just add vodka to lower the freezing point.. Or isopropyl alcool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway any alcool will lowe the freezing point (ethanol,metanol...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7488" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T01:12:26.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8901" CreationDate="2014-11-12T01:35:02.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are in need of a new power steering pump. The fluid is not being pumped properly to the steering rack when it is &quot;cold&quot;. Once it &quot;warms up&quot; it seems to get to the steering rack easier and makes everything work properly. Think of it in terms of thermo-hydraulics, the warmer the fluid, the easier it is pushed through the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7487" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T01:35:02.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-12T01:42:25.457" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, my car started overheating (was running perfectly fine for the past month, seemingly) so I checked the coolant and noticed it was practically empty. I brought it to a mechanic, who said that the issue is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Water leaking from between cylinder head and engine block under intake manifold.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They added sealwell to slow down the leak, and now the problem is slightly better but the car runs slightly on the hot side. They said that it honestly just wouldn't be economical for me to fix it now as it would cost around $800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd called a reputable mechanic to get a quote on the problem and he also said that it would be expensive and not worth it for me to get it fixed. So should I cut my losses now and sell to an end-of-life car dealer? Or should I physically take it to another mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in a bit of a remote area so it would be 2-3 hours drive to the next city, and I'm not sure how the car will hold up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7482" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:53:04.653" Title="Vehicle nearing end of life?" Tags="|repair|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2014-11-12T02:49:18.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are describing a blown head gasket and that repair price is reasonable.  Kudos to the mechanics who refused to take your money for what must be an old and tired car.  Cut your losses and unload it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T02:49:18.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-12T03:44:24.300" Score="3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 14 Ford Fusion SE, 2.0 w/ 235/45R18.  I want to downsize for winter to 17&quot;.  I understand the rule of thumb is to stay as close to the OEM diameter as to minimize difference with speedometer, odometer etc.  Doing the math it shows that a 215/55R17 would be nearly identical in diameter.  However each place I check online of store I go to they initially start with either 225/50R17 or 225/55R17.  Both of these sizes stay within 2% of the OEM but still not as close as the 215.  I ask them about the 215 and they do say it will work but it's not there first recommendation.  Am I missing something here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7489" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T03:27:16.073" Title="Winter Tire Downsize" Tags="|ford|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13127" CreationDate="2014-11-12T09:07:06.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you're changing rims from 18&quot; down to 17&quot; i would say its more important to get tyres which are the correct width for your new rims before worrying about the profile/OD.  (You haven't mentioned it but are the rims the same width?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a guess the tyre shops might also be recommending the 225's because they may be a more common size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you ask them why they recommended 225's instead of 215's? Surely they must be able to explain their own recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T09:25:15.220" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T09:25:15.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="862" CreationDate="2014-11-12T09:37:48.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The octane rating tells you how resistant fuel is to premature detonation, i.e. burning before it's meant to. It's quite a long explanation, depending on how much you already know. The short answer is that high octane fuel allows you to fire the spark plug closer to the optimal point during the compression stroke to allow the engine to perform at its best.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actiondonation.org/articles/high-octane-gasoline-facts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I found this page&lt;/a&gt;, which covers the topic pretty well and should answer your question thoroughly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T09:37:48.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13127" CreationDate="2014-11-12T11:42:39.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll say one thing to you, &lt;strong&gt;don't do the math&lt;/strong&gt; ... let some place like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt; do it for you. It has been my experience that one tire manufacturer's numbers (ie: 225/50R17) do not match another. There is only one true way to evaluate tire diameter and that is with the industry standard of &lt;em&gt;Rotations Per Mile&lt;/em&gt; (RPM). When you look at tire brands/models, you'll find that each tire with the same size profile will have different RPMs. Some of those differences will be small, others will be large. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T11:42:39.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2014-11-12T11:52:41.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question you'll have to answer for yourself. We cannot tell you to go out and buy a new (or new to you) car ... it just wouldn't fit in with how SE sites are done, especially this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we can do, however, is help lead you to make your own decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions you need to answer for yourself are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you afford a new (or new to you) car? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the old vehicle service your needs if you fix it (will you consider it reliable after the fix)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the payments on this new-ish car be acceptable? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much can you expect to be putting into the old car? Will it be more that what you would pay for the new-ish car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this be the first amount of major money you will have put into your old vehicle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a sentimental attachment to the old car? (Is the old car something you just really love?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can come up with more questions on your own. I'm hoping this will help you down that road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T20:53:04.653" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:53:04.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24461" CreationDate="2014-11-12T12:46:07.293" Score="4" ViewCount="12854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a new Nissan Note Acenta. With my VIN, I can deduce that it was produced on 2014 in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a Nissan Connect system (without camera, so no Around View Monitor, Safety Shield system, etc.), but I'm not sure which version it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it is a Nissan Connect 1, because I can connect my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S4 mini), but I can not install any app on the car, and I have heard that there are app like Google Search, Facebook, TripAdvisor, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only services that I can get on the car are the info service like weather, cost of gasoline, etc., but when I want to use it, the system make a voice call to a phone number to retrieve the information, instead of using the internet connection of my mobile phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover I've installed the Nissan Connect android app on the Samsung, but it says that the vehicle is not connected even if it is (I can do for instance free hands call, audio streaming and so on). On the Nissan Connect there is also Google send-to-car service, but it does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So I guess that I'm using Nissan Connect version 1, is it possible on a new 2014 Nissan Note? And is it possible to upgrade to Nissan Connect version 2?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7492" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:41:42.730" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T18:52:08.493" Title="Is it possible to upgrade Nissan Connect firmware?" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T00:17:08.940" Score="-1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering what exactly is going on there. When I pour in antifreeze and choke the the hose the antifreeze flows a lot better through. Any idea why this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T20:30:16.753" Title="When pouring in anti-freeze why does choking the hose allow it flow better" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8338" CreationDate="2014-11-13T02:43:22.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For stuck plugs use &quot;SeaFoam&quot; brand penetrating oil.  It is the best.  You may have to let it sit and work for a few days though. I have not seen this engine but it sounds like a tight spot so use a universal off the socket. Also use a 12 sided socket and, to make sure it doesn't skip, lightly grease the inside of the socket and dip it in sand blasting sand then gently tap the socket into place.  A socket treated this way will give tight, positive grip and  with luck, and a 4 foot snipe, the plug should come out.  Worked for me anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7493" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T02:43:22.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13127" CreationDate="2014-11-13T03:27:16.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input on this.  Most of what I read out there talked about importance of maintaining the diameter, so that is why I was on mission to find the closest.  My OEM setup, 18 x 8 (offset 55), 235/45R18 Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2.  According to Good Year website, diameter is 26.3 with 793 revs per mile, load index 98, load range XL, max load 1653. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setup that I'm looking at is 17 X 7.5 (offset 50), 215/55R17 Michelin X-Ice Xi3.  According to Michelin website, diameter 26.3 with 791 revs per mile, load index, range &amp;amp; load all same as OEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as asking about their recommendations, Tire Rack didn't elaborate as to their recommendation, nor did Discount Tire other than both of them said it should be ok.  As far as options both places offered many tire options in both 215 and 225, so both appear to be a common size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7494" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T03:27:16.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13155" CreationDate="2014-11-13T04:51:42.130" Score="1" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire inflating valve was broken in the middle, Do I have to replace the whole TPMS part or just have to replace the valve, since I do not think my tire pressure sensor has problem. &#xA;My car is a Jeep Grand Cherokee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Da&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7123" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T11:50:46.250" Title="Tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) valve broken" Tags="|jeep|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12451" CreationDate="2014-11-13T11:25:08.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclists know the answer to this only too well...  They use the maximum pressure the tyre will allow, when racing or time-trialing (say 140 psi) But the ride is so bumpy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When training they let their tyres down to 80-90 psi for the comfort, and better road-holding, at the expense of more effort required. (i.e. a worse mpg.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7495" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T11:25:08.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13139" CreationDate="2014-11-13T13:06:35.690" Score="2" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Vauxhall Meriva B (2011) 1.7 Diesel auto, and it needs new front tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently it's got 205/55R16 94V Michelin Energy Savers on it.  I've been looking at some tyre sites (eg, black circles), and if I put in the registration then I don't get this tyre size option - I get 205/55R16 91T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 91 rating tyres are cheaper than the XLs, so obviously I'd prefer to buy those.  Is black circles wrong, or does my car just have tyres that are stronger than it needs?  How can I find out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I've checked the car manual, and while it indicates the tyre size, it makes no mention of speed or load rating that I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6727" LastEditorUserId="6727" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T17:22:08.837" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T17:22:08.837" Title="Does my Vauxhall Meriva need XL tyres?" Tags="|tires|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13138" CreationDate="2014-11-13T14:41:20.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black Circles has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackcircles.com/general/speedrating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tyre rating guide&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oLqA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a V is rated to 149mph whereas a T is only rated to 118mph. How fast are you thinking of travelling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about the XL rating (which just stands for Extra Load) this really comes down to how much you load the vehicle. They have stronger sidewalls to resist deformation - useful for a heavily loaded van, or a hard driven rally car perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that a Meriva is not going to need V rated tyres - ever. Although, as Mauro points out - that warning note about choosing a tyre rating which is recommended in your car manual is going to be a good thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T15:42:43.223" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T15:42:43.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2014-11-13T17:37:46.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your engine struggles when it is cold, but starts fine when hot and the car runs fine afterwards with no loss of power, I would check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your battery with a voltmeter from the posts. If it reads 12.7 V or above, then the battery is good. If it under 12.3 V, then get a new one . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is very likely your starter motor is not turning quickly enough. If your car is 10 year old or older, check your starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the main two reasons why your car is not starting when it is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check your injectors, but if the car runs fine I would be surprised if this is your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other one cause which I hope you never have is the HP fuel pump not working correctly while cranking the engine with the starter motor. This means an expensive repair because the hp fuel pump usually works with the timing belt and a new pump is expensive. If this is the problem, I would recommend a second-hand part if you have an old car, as they are usually good, but they can go wrong like everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastEditorUserId="10976" LastEditDate="2017-03-12T21:59:46.793" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T21:59:46.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13133" CreationDate="2014-11-13T18:08:08.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the hose in question is the upper radiator hose.  Squeezing the hose makes it oval shaped which makes it easier for air to escape as fluid enters.  That is, the antifreeze has to displace any air in the system and the only place for that air to escape is out through the vent cap.  Squeezing the hose just makes that easier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T18:08:08.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T19:49:24.233" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '02 Mazda Protege5, I hear a clunking noise on the front, driver side wheel area. I am lead to believe that it is a Control Arm Bushing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it was really bad this past summer and persisted until now that it's mid November and temperature is hovering a little above 0 Celcius. It's like my car got fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a case of rubber expands / metal contracts when cooled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T19:53:56.350" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T19:53:56.350" Title="Clunking noise disappears when weather is cold?" Tags="|mazda|noise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13157" CreationDate="2014-11-13T22:28:04.347" Score="4" ViewCount="7679" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main concern is the longevity of the engine and transmission. I see conflicting view points on the internet. Some say changing from D to N and back constantly will cause extra wear on the transmission. Others say staying on D will cause stress on the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7158" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:31:43.387" Title="Automatic Transmission: Best practice when waiting at the red light - N or D?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-11-14T00:05:48.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actually normal for brand new and modern cars to consume oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no set number, but as a rule of thumb, it's often agreed that up to about 1 quart or 1 litre of oil per 1000 miles (e.g. out of 6L of oil from the oil pan) is considered to be an entirely normal oil consumption rate; on the other hand, more than 1L per 1000 km is probably too much of an oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others mentioned, this is not to be confused with oil leaks, where the oil leaks onto the ground from beneath the engine -- no such oil consumption should be considered as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T00:05:48.913" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T02:31:18.600" Score="2" ViewCount="1952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata, and when I go press on my brakes, the car will slow down, but when I press down on them hard (for an immediate stop) they slide for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common? I've put new pads on them, but the issue still persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's brake fluid in the reservoir.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7501" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:49:54.567" Title="Brakes slide when pressing on them" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T03:52:35.000" Score="1" ViewCount="2582" Body="&lt;p&gt;my crown victoria is showing p0108 and I changed the mass air flow sensor and gas cap do u think it could be the pcv valve or the egr valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7503" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T06:19:25.250" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T17:51:39.873" Title="2004 crown victoria poilice interceptor showing code p0108" Tags="|ford|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13154" CreationDate="2014-11-14T06:55:00.933" Score="2" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went about changing the spark plugs on my 91' Honda CBR250RR and ran into a problem with the fourth plug. I tried inserting the sparkplug socket but it wouldn't get in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using my phones camera I caught a glimpse of this stuck in the barrel..&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuhuc.png&quot; alt=&quot;?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run into something like this? (this is the first time I'm changing the spark plugs on this bike since buying it about 18months ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like solidified metal almost but I'm not sure. I need to find a way of fishing this out, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T12:06:59.617" Title="Something stuck inside the spark plug barrel of motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T10:10:37.283" Score="6" ViewCount="4055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to read fuel level from the car and display it on my application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The communication was established using the ELM327 Bluetooth interface dongle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ELM module replies &lt;code&gt;NO DATA&lt;/code&gt; for the code &lt;code&gt;012F\r&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other way to calculate or get fuel level using OBD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T16:16:59.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T10:45:36.527" Title="OBD 2 Fuel reading says No Data" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13152" CreationDate="2014-11-14T10:22:00.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only suggestions would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use compressed air, as Zaid suggested&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a narrow screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you don't lose it - worthwhile getting a closer look at it to see if you can identify where it came from!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T10:22:00.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13136" CreationDate="2014-11-14T11:50:46.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is the part you are trying to replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpRXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have it replaced. The cost of the part is under $5 from rockauto.com (I'm sure it's available at other places as well). It's called a TPMS Service Kit (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4496046&amp;amp;cc=1433828&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schreader part #:34000&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T11:50:46.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13152" CreationDate="2014-11-14T12:06:59.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to dislodge it. I would use something like this tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KJ1t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Snapon tool under $8&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, before you go to remove the spark plug, take a shop vac and vacuum the piece out of there. If you hold the shop vac's hose half-way over the hole, the air turbulence should remove the small piece of debris. Also, if the piece is ferrous in nature, the hook I showed above should also be magnetized and should pull the piece out as well. Handy little tool for many different situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T12:06:59.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13146" CreationDate="2014-11-14T12:44:03.490" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought this question was answered under &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/816/can-coasting-in-neutral-damage-an-automatic-transmission&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but it has to do with coasting and not while stopped (though some of that answer still applies here). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will continually get a bunch or opinion on this question. The truth of the matter is, &lt;strong&gt;an automatic transmission is designed to be left in gear while driving&lt;/strong&gt;. By shifting out of gear at stop lights, you are creating more wear-n-tear on your transmission/shifter/linkage which would otherwise not exist by just leaving it in gear. When you slow your car down and the engine gets below a certain speed, the torque convertor no longer has enough fluid shearing going on to continue providing direct output to the transmission. It is designed to allow this to happen. Your transmission will not suffer any adverse effects by allowing it to happen. No additional wear occurs because of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, leave your car in drive and let the transmission do it's work unimpeded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T12:44:03.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T13:38:54.130" Score="1" ViewCount="2908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be using a trailer for my Dec. holiday. I have a 2006 Honda Civic VXi 1.8 Auto. What I need questions on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do drive in the normal D or D3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Pulling a trailer with an automatic, how does it influence consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7508" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:17:01.183" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:17:01.183" Title="Towing a trailer with a 2006 Honda Civic VXi 1.8 Auto" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|civic|towing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2014-11-14T14:39:34.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Immobiliser has kicked in cause you removed the battery, got the same problem,  I've been told locking &amp;amp; unlocking the car with the key fob will do it!! Mine don't seem to work, the real answer is a 4 digit code you get when you buy the car from the dealer which I didn't, it not the radio code which is all I had it's the ecu or eka which is in the owners manual under security/safety, you use the code in the car door lock by turning the key whatever number of times one way then opposite way for next &amp;amp; so on, if you find any other way let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7509" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T14:39:34.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13158" CreationDate="2014-11-14T15:49:25.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uktow.com/towing%20capacity.asp?make=Honda&amp;amp;model1=Civic%201.8%20i-VTEC%20VXi%20Automatic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, the towing capacity of your vehicle is 3306lbs/1500kg. The weight here should include all cargo inside the vehicle (including driver/passengers and fuel), the trailer weight, and then the cargo inside trailer. All of this adds up and you should be aware of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Do drive in the normal D or D3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to just keep the transmission in Drive (normal position for driving). The transmission. ECM/PCM will understand exactly what your transmission needs to be doing and will down shift as needed to compensate for driving conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Pulling a trailer with an automatic, how does it influence consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably see a substantial drop in fuel mileage while towing a trailer. This really is dependent upon your driving style (mainly how fast you'll be driving), how hard you push your vehicle, and the extra drag from the trailer (larger size = larger drag). I would suspect you could see a drop of somewhere in the 5-10% mileage range. This would probably be the same for an automatic or a standard shift vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main things you need to be worried about while towing a trailer is to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; go over speed (stay under the speed limit), use slow steady motions while driving (don't do sudden lane changes), leave plenty of room for braking, and be aware you have something traveling behind you (ie: give yourself more clearance while changing lanes and going around corners). Remember, the safety of yourself, your passengers, and those around you are at stake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:49:25.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13263" CreationDate="2014-11-14T16:32:31.680" Score="3" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing to jump into a change of my stator (generator) on a 2007 DL1000 Suzuki V-Strom. I saw something unusual on the outside of the box, can anyone determine whether this might indicate a leak from the stator or some other part of the bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just received all of the parts (gasket and stator kit) so before I get started just wondering if this should give me pause to review anything else? I've already swapped out the rectifier/regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXx0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stator-box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T08:25:42.290" Title="Trying to understand the cause of the leak?" Tags="|motorcycle|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13262" CreationDate="2014-11-14T16:39:00.657" Score="3" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23cMne4iET4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; recently on adding an aftermarket oil filter adapter to my motorcycle. Are there any downsides to using this type of product? Should I have a concern about using a car oil filter on my bike? If so, please specify the possible negative impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T03:40:42.407" Title="Downsides to using an adapter allowing me to use car oil filter on motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13167" CreationDate="2014-11-14T19:17:14.067" Score="4" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;The panic button on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00I1MQXL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;remote key fob&lt;/a&gt; is very sensitive and sets off the alarm accidentally all the time, for example, when it's in my pocket and I move a certain way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to disable the panic button, or do they make a key fob that works with the 2009 S40 that does not have the panic button?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7511" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:47:37.013" Title="Can I disable my 2009 Volvo S40's remote key fob panic button?" Tags="|volvo|key|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13146" CreationDate="2014-11-14T20:23:04.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only stress on the transmission when left in D at a full stop is the shearing stress applied to the transmission fluid in the torque converter. There is &lt;strong&gt;no wear of mechanical components&lt;/strong&gt;, nor contamination of the fluid when that is happening. &lt;em&gt;The energy is dissipated as heat.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I personally like to put the transmission in N and raise the hand brake at stop lights to stretch my legs and shift my position in the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:23:04.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13164" CreationDate="2014-11-14T20:47:37.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest way to disable it would be to take the fob apart and put a very small piece of tape on the contacts for the button. This would make it so you could reverse this without too much issue if you decided to sell the car. Most car fobs (at least like the one you show in the link) will split in two to replace the battery. This also gives you access to the electronics. Placing the bit of tape between where the button makes contact should make it so it will no longer be able to do this. If (and I know, big &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) you can get the fob apart, it should be readily apparent to you what I'm talking about. I'm not sure if there is a way to do it through disabling it electronically inside the car or the Body Control Module (BCM). This would probably require you to take it to the dealership to accomplish (with some sort of computer which would talk to your vehicle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T20:47:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T01:58:37.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Impala 3.8 has been running great. However, this summer the thermostat gauge stopped reading temperature right. To the point it wouldn't move even after it had been running for hours. It would just stay below 140 which is the lowest temp marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, today, with a high of 21 here in Texas, it started to just creep up to the red. The deal is, when it gets to the red, it's not really that hot. I can turn my heater on full blast and have the air pass over the engine and the air is still coming out cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is telling me that my coolant level is low too, however I just checked it and it's perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What in the world could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7514" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T11:43:11.107" Title="2002 Impala 3.8L V6 thermostat gauge starts below cold then creeps toward red" Tags="|chevrolet|gm|impala|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T05:53:58.457" Score="1" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's written everywhere that you should use Distilled water for topping up the electrolyte levels in the batteries; however, it would appear that Walmart's Distilled water also goes through Ozonation, in addition to Steam Distillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some folklore stories that using such Great Value Distilled water kills the batteries for good.  Is that true or false?  Should such water be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:04:30.417" Title="Use ozonated distilled water for maintenance-free batteries?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T06:09:26.453" Score="-1" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Toyota Corolla 2003. It is using too much gas. What are the possible problems that need to be solved? Is it a problem in intake the manifold or in the exhaust system or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7516" LastEditorUserId="7748" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:40:52.563" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:40:52.563" Title="Why my car is using too much gas?" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T06:37:26.877" Score="3" ViewCount="20852" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L has the battery as follows: ENERTEC EMC // 1J0 915 105 AD // 12V 61 Ah 330A DIN // 540A EN/SAE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that the battery can no longer hold the starting charge after an unfortunate incident of having the battery drained up (with the engine being off), and now it seems like it basically can only hold the surface charge, even though it was running just fine prior to the aforementioned discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of my battery (including the six caps) looks exactly the same as the one featured at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9239/should-i-check-quantity-of-battery-liquid&quot;&gt;Should i check quantity of battery liquid?&lt;/a&gt;, except that mine also has an eye between the terminals and the caps themselves are beneath a sticker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many ml's of distilled water would it be safe to add to the battery, without risking creating any more problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've opened up two of the six caps so far, and I couldn't see any plates, so, I'm not exactly sure if I can or cannot add more water to it.  I've owned the car all along, and I'm pretty certain that no water has yet been added in the 6 years the car had the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I've added 2x 10ml syringe shots into each cell (I got the free oral-use-only syringe from Walmart Pharmacy for free; I got distilled water for small appliances from Target); that's a total of 6x 20ml = 120ml of H2O.  It seems small enough to not cause any leaks; not sure if it's large enough to make it hold a charge sufficient for the start motor.  And, just to be clear -- the discharge was only enough to stop powering the starter; the battery has not been fully discharged (to not power anything at all) in the last year; it has only been fully discharged (through a lightbulb) once, about two years ago.  Right now, prior to adding this water, the battery simply stopped holding a charge to power the motors -- it is still holding a good charge for the electronics and power locks etc.  I hope this extra 120ml of distilled water would help revive it without any ill effects.  BTW, it does have a min/max marker on the side, however, it's not really visible, due to the battery being wrapped up in some special blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T02:09:11.833" Title="how much water can be safely added to a battery?" Tags="|battery|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13172" CreationDate="2014-11-15T08:46:13.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the photo and your description it looks like a normal serviceable battery. It should have marks somewhere on it to indicate the full level. If not just top it up until all of the plates are covered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take it out of the car you may be able to carefully tip or angle the battery so that you can see the plates and/or the acid level. If it's just been run flat, it would also be a good idea to put it on a charger overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd leave a few mm free at the top. But wouldn't be too worried about the level. As the can obviously handle fluctuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been low for a long time the battery may be damaged. And if its really low you may want to consider taking it to a workshop and getting them to put acid in it rather than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that batteries don't last forever. It may be at the end of its life anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2014-11-15T08:59:53.537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T08:59:53.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13171" CreationDate="2014-11-15T10:05:03.027" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be that you need to change your spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7513" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T10:05:03.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13172" CreationDate="2014-11-15T11:20:37.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your battery is six years old, you just need to replace it. This is a longer life than most would expect from a battery. There are some off the wall ways in which you could salvage the battery, but your best/easiest bet is just replacement. Adding water or acid is not going to salvage it, so put it out to pasture and buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T11:20:37.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13171" CreationDate="2014-11-15T11:29:06.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first bet is to give it a tune up. That would involve changing the following items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark Plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2 Sensors (whether codes are present or not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the upper intake tract (using a Seafoam treatment or the like)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset the learning state of the Engine Control Module (ECM - computer). You do this by unplugging the battery for a half-hour or so, or while you are changing out the spark plugs. This will get the computer back to an initial state so it can learn the new spark plugs and O2 sensors instead of dumping fuel for the old ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the mileage, you'd probably want to consider having the timing belt change. This will not affect your mileage, per-se, but will allow your engine to continue functioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T11:29:06.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13170" CreationDate="2014-11-15T11:35:34.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water you are describing should be just fine. Ozone is just oxygen with three molecules (O3) rather than two (O2). It is a gas and will dissipate from the battery rather quickly. It is put into the water to help keep it fresh. What you need is the distilled part of the water, which means it's just water without impurities of metal or such which would clog up the battery. This water should not cause you any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T11:35:34.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13168" CreationDate="2014-11-15T11:43:11.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have three potential problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first problem you described sounds like you need to replace the temperature sending unit. This is important not only for your piece of mind (so you can read the correct temp on the gauge), but for your engine and fuel economy as well. Your computer could be reading the temp of this sensor and giving incorrect fuel to the engine, thinking it's hot when it's still cold. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cold coming from the heater vent is telling me either you have a thermostat stuck wide open or that you have a blocked heater core (no fluid coming through). I'm pretty sure it's probably your thermostat which needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your coolant level sensor may be bad. Over time they can get &quot;stuff&quot; (sediment or impurities) which coat the sensor causing it to go bad. This is just a PITB rather than an emergency type thing. You can either get the sensor replaced or just put up with it reading wrong and check your fluid levels on a regular basis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T11:43:11.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13170" CreationDate="2014-11-15T16:58:32.927" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Distilled water and de-ionised water are the same thing. Water is boiled to cause it to evaporate, the steam is captured and cooled which turns it into back into water, pure water - distilled and de-ionised. Any impurities in the original water are left behind in the process. Ozonation of water is primarily used is waste water treatment as a oxidising disinfectant and its use in battery water is a complete non-sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T16:58:32.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13149" CreationDate="2014-11-15T17:15:22.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0108 is the DTC for MAP circuit high. This means you have either a faulty MAP sensor, usually part of the engine ECU in later vehicles, or you have low manifold vacuum. This can be caused by incorrect cam shaft timing (new belt lately?), valves adjusted incorrectly, or a simple air leak on the engine some where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T17:15:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2014-11-15T17:17:41.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like an ABS failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T17:17:41.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2014-11-15T21:49:56.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For every day use diesel are better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diesel cost less (in EU)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most modern diesel engines are near to petrol engines as performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diesel engine lasts twice of a petrol engine (ex. petrol makes about 250'000k, dieasel 500'000km&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;petrol engine are simpler (less components) then diesel, so less problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;petrol engine is economic only if combined with gas (Metan or LGP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2421" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T21:49:56.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T23:12:41.673" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I adjust the brakes? what tools are needed? Is it a big job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T12:49:31.823" Title="Adjust brakes in 2005 Lexus rx 330 as a DIY?" Tags="|brakes|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T23:38:19.207" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;What additives, if any, should be added and how often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T13:33:35.953" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T13:33:35.953" Title="Is it necessary to pour additives to fuel?" Tags="|gasoline|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-16T15:46:36.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T23:56:16.673" Score="0" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Lexus rx 330 with navigation system. How often should it be updated and how much does it cost approximately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T19:29:13.740" Title="How often should Navigation software be updated?" Tags="|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-16T02:10:49.410" Score="2" ViewCount="1343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a problem while taking turns with my Toyota Camry 2003 Altise sedan ( has done 108k kms and regularly serviced). I was driving at around 40 kmph and was steering right and suddenly the car came to a grinding halt without me finishing the complete turn. Luckily there was no oncmoing traficc because the halt was very sudden. I reversed the car and then was able to drive on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what may be the reason for this happening because my wife had indicated that she had been slowing down totally while taking because she had noticed this problem earlier in the week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any comments as to what is causing this problem. &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7520" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:25:32.337" Title="Car totally stalled while doing a sharp turn at 40kmph" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13191" CreationDate="2014-11-16T06:03:16.067" Score="1" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering whether anyone has any experience with fuel additives that clean injectors and carburetors. I have an old motorcycle that starts, but can't keep it self running for long before it dies. It was left sitting over winter and I'm assuming the fuel lines and carbs are gummed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to attempt to take the carbs apart to have a go at cleaning them and balancing them etc since I'm afraid of ruining it ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these carb and fuel injector cleaning fuel additives actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="803" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:26:51.237" Title="Carburettor Cleaner Additive? how good are they" Tags="|fuel-system|cleaning|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13196" CreationDate="2014-11-16T08:10:44.647" Score="7" ViewCount="13424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would occasional 10 minute trips be long enough to charge a completely new Honda 2013 Civic's car battery, without it slowly dying over the long term? It's getting colder now and I don't drive frequently. I could see myself making a 10 minute one-way trip, so I was wondering if this was long enough to recharge the car battery over a period of 2 months like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I shouldn't have to worry about this too much, since many people use their car for short trips (picking up the kids, getting groceries, driving to work) and they have to start the car for each one-way stop. Am I just overthinking this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be going an average of 30 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T15:20:18.037" Title="Is 10 minutes a long enough ride time to recharge a new car battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2014-11-16T11:19:52.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles have 'smart' alternators and your vehicle is MY2013 and should not be too troubled by your indicated use. For your peace of mind have you considered a solar panel plugged into your cigarette/power outlet socket? These are widely available from auto accessory shops and are quite inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:19:52.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13188" CreationDate="2014-11-16T11:26:51.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These additives do work, but they do have a down side. You add it to the fuel and the fluid loosens and shifts the gumming up in the system. What can happen is they free up a lump of 'gum' which moves through the system until it blocks another part of the system. Not always, but when the system is badly 'gummed' a real possible. Best way to clean injectors is off of the vehicle on a made for purpose machine or replace them, carbs too are best done off of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:26:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13187" CreationDate="2014-11-16T11:33:41.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple explanation would be along the lines of a faulty power steering pump, or the power steering pressure relief controls not releasing full lock pressure. If full pressure is not relieved, the high pressure can act as a brake on the engine by forcing the power steering pump to work at maximum pressure it can reach and loading the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:33:41.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13186" CreationDate="2014-11-16T11:38:58.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your system arrives with a pretty comprehensive map set when you first get it. The satnav companies will always advise regular updates and you pay for them. Most of the updates are of petty adjustments to the road system and are generally not worth paying for as the systems will re-calculate if you go off route anyway. To me it is simple up-selling when it comes to these updates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:38:58.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13185" CreationDate="2014-11-16T11:58:02.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None and unneccessary would be the answer to your question. The fuel companies spend good money on their fuel formulations and pretty well cover all that is needed. There is though a vibrant after market that will try to convince you other wise. Over many years I have yet to come across an after market product that really does do what it says on the tin in way of improvement. USA and European governments exert stringent controls on fuel supplys and suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T11:58:02.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13184" CreationDate="2014-11-16T12:06:21.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lexus RX 330 have self-adjusting disc brakes all round. They are servo assisted and are adjusted simply by pressing the brake pedal a couple of times to prime the system. Some drivers do not realise the servo effect and may think they have a problem. Do this to determine the servo operation: With the engine turned off, pump the brake pedal until you have a solid pedal- no more than six pumpms should do this. Now pressing on the brake pedal, car in neutral, start the engine. You will feel the brake pedal sink down. This is the servo operating correctly. If you do have any concerns though with your brakes you should have them checked out by a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T12:06:21.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2014-11-16T13:13:37.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you mean by &quot;periodic&quot;, a 10 mile drive should be enough to recharge a battery if done, for instance, on a weekly basis. There is more to worry about than just the battery, though. Whenever you run your vehicle, you need to completely warm up the car (through driving). This allows for the conditioning of seals, allows gaskests not to dry out, runs old gas out, etc. There are a plethora of reasons to run your vehicle. Speaking of gas, if you are basically going to leave it sit, put some Sta-Bil (or the like) gas treatment into the tank and then completely fill the tank. By filling up the tank, there is less atmosphere in the tank to allow the gas to go bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative for the battery is to get a battery tender. This will keep your battery fully charged and maintained while not in use. Battery tenders I've used have a pig tail which you attach permanently to the vehicle's electrical system. You then plug this into the tender which plugs into the wall. Very easy to utiize and works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T13:13:37.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13185" CreationDate="2014-11-16T13:33:03.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how the vehicle is used. If you are running the vehicle and burning through a tank of gas every week, fuel addatives are probably unneccisary on a regular basis. If you aren't running the vehicle often, an additive like Sta-Bil can help keep the fuel fresh while in the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as additives go, some additives work better than others. BG products have a very good reputations, but are a little expensive (and can only be purchased at an authorized dealer which is usually a garage - not at a Walmart or such). If used correctly, Seafoam is a good product as well. It is also a lot cheaper an can be readily purchased at a Walmart or Autozone. Over time, varnish does build up inside the intake tract. These types of products can help to clean them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T13:33:03.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13189" CreationDate="2014-11-16T15:20:18.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give a good answer, you need to clarify how often these &quot;occasional&quot; 10 minute trips will be, and how cold the weather is going to be. But unless you're thinking of something like 2-3 weeks or more between trips, or extreme climates, I suspect you're okay. This is based on personal experience with my (much older) Civic with a non-new battery and similar driving patterns in the winter with typical nighttime temperatures around 28-34 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course when it's that cold you may find yourself wanting to let it run 10 minutes before you even get in the car to warm up the coolant for the heater core, and like Paulster2 said, this will also be good for the car's other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T15:20:18.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-16T16:45:19.140" Score="11" ViewCount="15758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a Mini-ITX PC board in a car. I plan to use the 12V &quot;cigar&quot; outlet or take the 12V elsewhere, but from the same 12V source that is dedicated to be used for user devices within a car's cabin. How stable is the 12V voltage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My PC will consume about 30W. I plan to use a picoPSU power source. The cheapest one I found is this $25 thing: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-80&quot;&gt;picoPSU-80, (80W)&lt;/a&gt;. It seems it needs a stable 12V - its &lt;a href=&quot;http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PWR-PICOPSU-80/PWR-PICOPSU-80-manual.pdf&quot;&gt;manual says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12V regulated, min=1A, max=10A (load dependent). Over-voltage shutdown&#xA;  will occur at ~13-13.5V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont know what that really means... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alza.cz/picopsu-80-dc-dc-80w-d312130.htm#recenze&quot;&gt;A comment on other site&lt;/a&gt; says it needs 12V+-10%. Will I be OK with this power supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case those 12V+-10% is not enough there are of course more expensive PSUs like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply&quot;&gt;M3-ATX (125W)&lt;/a&gt;. It accepts 6-24V input and costs $69. However, I would like to avoid spending extra in case it is not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T22:50:43.060" Title="How stable is voltage in a 12V car outlet?" Tags="|electrical|power-outlet|electronics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2014-11-16T18:36:43.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The voltage available on the &quot;Accessory&quot; circuits on &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; modern (last 10 years, at least) can be pretty stable at 12-12.5V. Ignition circuits, not so much (9-14V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be safe, however, you should measure with a fast acting (ie, analog) voltmeter on the cigarette lighter in the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Key on, engine off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Key on, engine cranking (likely it's going to be off in this state*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Key on, engine running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A digital one would probably work as well (the big deal is getting a reading during cranking). If it's within the range there, you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Some cars have the cigarrette lighter outlet connected directly the battery, so it's on with the key off. Some do that with a timer, some are on the accessory circuit, etc. It varies a lot between years, makes and even models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T14:31:01.900" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:31:01.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13171" CreationDate="2014-11-16T18:53:56.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worn out piston rings, or other issues causing low compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T18:53:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-16T19:59:14.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the transmission in my 2002 Lexus RX 300 about one month ago. The mechanics reprogrammed my ECU immediately, and they advised me to replace my ECU with a new one, because with the old ECU I will have problems with gears 2 and 3, and my transmission could break again. They also said there may be surges while driving. Is that proper advice? Do I need to replace my old ECU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7522" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T22:07:58.873" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:23:16.567" Title="Do I need a new ECU after replacing the transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|lexus|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13205" CreationDate="2014-11-16T20:12:51.827" Score="7" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I stopped my 2000 Ford Ranger (V6 4WD) and all of a sudden there was white smoke pouring out from under the hood, indicating that something was leaking radiator fluid. When I opened the hood, I found that a part connected to 4 cooling hoses and one wire had broken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RAXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pG1C4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In context&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked through a number of OEM parts supplier breakout diagrams, but I can't find anything that looks like it. It is located in the left rear portion of the engine compartment. Can anyone help me identify this part so I can buy a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T10:41:42.613" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T15:03:33.417" Title="What is this (cooling-system related) part?" Tags="|engine|ford|coolant|part-identification|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2014-11-16T21:55:51.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dCiWV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulled from Rockauto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T21:55:51.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2014-11-16T22:24:19.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with the more expensive one in this case. Typical output of a &quot;good&quot; system is in the neighborhood of 13.1vdc. Depending on the alternator and how much it needs to put out to recharge the battery, it could be upwards of 14vdc (or maybe a touch higher). The power output from the 12v outlet source is going to reflect what the alternator is putting out. I think the little pico you showed is going to have issues with the power. The second seems it will accept a much broader array of power input without shutting down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T22:24:19.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8601" CreationDate="2014-11-16T22:43:08.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old PARKER'S guide to the Uno known starting faults says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed distributor vacuum unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two small wires inside distributor break after 8-9 years or 60K-70K miles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankshaft position sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T22:43:08.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13187" CreationDate="2014-11-16T22:52:47.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking there could be two possibilities here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of the constant velocity (CV) joints may be going bad, where it it binding so much during a turn, it could lock up and cause vehicle to stop. While backing up and then going forward again allows the joint to release and thus the car can go forward again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The differential in the transmission may be having a similar issue. It may be locking up during large differential load, causing the car to come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, during straight-line driving this issue wouldn't appear because neither of the binding issues would be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these suggestions are a bit on the &quot;out there&quot; side, as I've never seen it happen. I do know that many 4x4 vehicles which, while the transfer is engaged, will experience surging/binding when the steering is cramped because of the way their CV joint is made. Car CV joints are made a bit differently, but if worn out it might cause the same kind of issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T22:52:47.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2014-11-17T04:00:35.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will tell you with 100% certainty that Toyota can and will, typically happily! pull any and all service records of any work performed on your used vehicle that was performed at a Toyota dealership. If you are asking the potential seller(dealership) to give you the service records then you have received the standard sales answer for every dealership in America (including Toyota). Take the VIN of the vehicle to another service dept of the same make and they will look up the info for you. They will do so in hopes of first: selling you a car on their lot and second: at least earning your business as a service customer can they not switch you to one of their rides. These dealers can and will look up repairs made at their dealerships in the states, particularly warrant claims and recalls. If they find outstanding warranty claims or recalls they will ask for your business and it costs you nothing. They in turn hopefully gain a customer. I have done this with multiple used purchases and multiple manufacturers. It is a smart thing to do regardless where you purchase as you can often find safety issues that need attention. Best of luck.&#xA;Retired Sales Manager/now part time wrench turner~T &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T04:00:35.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13203" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:23:16.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something on the board has either died, or no longer functions properly. If its ECU related and been told to replace ALWAYS replace it straight away, I wouldn't risk driving the car as well so maybe tow it or if its still there just get it. Or buy an aftermarket ECU, but then you will have to get it retuned but you will get better gains out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But overall replace it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:23:16.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13187" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:25:32.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering, check for leaks and if it hasn't been replaced in 2 years then book it for a service. My Holden 2001 used to do it under hard lock and you could hear it struggled if it was really cold and did it really fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:25:32.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13146" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:31:43.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if you were sitting a driving test in NZ you would get told off, cause you gotta think... What if some idiot behind me or the side comes at me? That extra time could save your life. Same with manuals never use N unless parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:31:43.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13000" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:38:11.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing the battery, look at the age on it(label says somewhere) if its over 3+ years or whenever the warranty goes off its worth replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:38:11.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:41:24.000" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the mechanic has fixed the stuff on the vehicle as you don't know how long it could be in there., you need to change oil every 10000 km or 6 months. So might as well keep it clean and make the full use of the six months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T18:29:29.980" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:29:29.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:43:34.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've ran it beyond or at the red mark, headgasket. If you noticed it before this happened Rear Main Seal, which is still expensive in a way as you need to take out the transmission but better then a headgasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:43:34.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12832" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:48:04.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it bubble at all when radiator cap is removed (head gasket)? When's the last time you replaced your coolant (needs changing every 2 years) did the previous over flow tank have gunk in it? (mine did in my Holden 2001 and it got into the radiator/cooling system gave it a flush added new coolant, pipes, thermostat, maybe waterpump? I did when it happened to mine but I did it myself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have none of those symptoms possibly the rear main seal. Which involves removing the transmission to get at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:48:04.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:54:04.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If oil is below 3/4 after 6 months or after 10000km then its too much. Are you using the recommended graded oil? Check with Repco or BNT if you have it in your country or your local parts dealer not a mechanic unless its the cars dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:54:04.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13149" CreationDate="2014-11-17T12:49:54.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That code for Ford is not exactly the same as the generic equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0108 - Ford Type   Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled&#xA;Description     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barometric Sensor High Conditions&#xA;Cause   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine running and the PCM detected a BARO sensor operating range of more than 5.0v&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T12:49:54.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13232" CreationDate="2014-11-17T13:10:48.990" Score="2" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term Engine life factor going by the name suggests that higher the value more is the life of the engine. If so why doesn't companies specify this as a part of their standard specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:52:59.240" Title="What is meant by Engine Life Factor(ELF). Should I consider it while buying a vehicle? If so why is it not widely quoted?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T13:28:24.623" Score="3" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that my battery does not receive enough power from the generator. How do I verify that? I know that involves a voltmeter, but what are the exact things I'm measuring and how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Skoda Felicia 97 1.3L, battery is standard and 1.5yo. Idle RPM seems to be a little low, but that's a separate question once I have proper data from the question above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1100" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T03:01:31.483" Title="How do I check that my battery receives enough power from generator?" Tags="|electrical|battery|generator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13225" CreationDate="2014-11-17T13:41:22.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're measuring voltage. Idle could be related to the battery as well, since the battery might be lacking. Post results once you've found out. If it's not (from memory) around 12 or higher, then it's slowly degrading. Charging it does fix it temporarily, but it will die out eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T03:01:31.483" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T03:01:31.483" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13224" CreationDate="2014-11-17T13:43:56.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't personally, I mean for example they try to make EFI a big deal. Here in NZ they were promoting Holdens/Potanics that they had EFI and that's how old now? So just guy with cars you know that have a good reliability behind them like Toyota or Nissan. If your looking at a performance car then read up on reviews etc... heaps of resources to look for online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T13:43:56.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13068" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:16:50.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This topic is pretty covered, but instead of using normal air, ask your tyre dealer to put nitrogen in your tyres. The compounds are a lot thickers and don't leak out as much as air does. My weekly air pressure checks are now every 3 months which it will only go down by 3 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:16:50.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:18:11.817" Score="-2" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a problem recently, as I push the gas pedal my car moves super slow. It won't go faster then 10 to 15 mphs. As I drive it feels like the gears are not catching&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7535" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T21:48:18.310" Title="Engine Transmission" Tags="|engine|transmission|buick|lesabre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13225" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:30:54.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to see if your alternator is working, first you need to know what your battery is reading with the engine off. Put your multi-meter on vdc reading and test your battery. It should be about 12.6vdc if in good shape. Next start your engine. Your reading at the battery should be somewhere around 13.1-13.6vdc. It may even be a bit higher than that right after start-up (say in the 14vdc range), then settle down into this area. It may fluctuate a little bit (like .1-.2vdc), but nothing erratic. Most vehicles have what is called an &quot;idiot light&quot; in the instrument cluster which will come on if the alternator is not producing the amount of voltage it needs to sustain the battery and keep the engine/accessories running. It's really the difference of voltages, off vs running, which you're looking for to assure your battery is charging. If you put your multi-meter onto the battery and it is discharging (voltage constantly dropping), you need to look at your alternator as a source of mischief. If your battery is not charging up to snuff (around the 13.1-13.6vdc) arena, it could also be a source or problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:30:54.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:49:45.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your car could be in &quot;limp&quot;-mode. If the car detects some critical issues it can go to a mode where the power is drastically reduced to be able to just get it to the garage. Certain car models can do this also if the brake lights don't work etc.&#xA;You should have the error codes read to check what is going on. A local garage or dealership can do this for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:49:45.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13224" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:52:59.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ELF or Engine Life Factor is a calculated number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ELF = 100,000/Max RPM x CR &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where: RPM = Revs per minute and CR = Compression ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is supposed to indicate the longevity of an engine by reducing the &quot;number&quot; by how fast the engine is able to run and what its numerical compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some major flaws in this thinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it doesn't take into account how the engine is built. For instance, the difference between a turbo charged engine and a normally aspirated engine. In order to get the performance out of a purpose built turbo charged engine, you lower the compression ratio to allow the turbo to produce more boost with less fear of pre-detonation. This allows for great HP output with out the damaging affects of the dread &quot;knock&quot;. Yet, a turbo charged engine will absorb a greater amount of abuse. You can usually bet the turbo engine would not last as long as a normally aspirated one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, this also does not take into account maintenance of an engine. An owner which takes care of a car's engine by utilizes premium filters and lubricants, performs all maintenance on-time, and doesn't abuse his vehicle can expect the engine to last an exceedingly longer time than someone who doesn't perform the same maintenance regime and abuses it. This &lt;em&gt;major&lt;/em&gt; factor is nowhere factored into this equation (with no real way to do it either). (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm sure I could come up with more reasons, but think this is sufficient for showing my point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, this is just an arbitrary number which might be assigned to an engine based on some very unrealistic factors which have nothing really to do with longevity. While having no proof, this is probably a &quot;real&quot; reason why manufacturers don't utilize this number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:52:59.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2014-11-17T14:56:20.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are going to take the engine apart, they're probably going to drain the oil. A good shop won't put the same oil back that they drained out unless it's obviously fresh and clean. With that in mind, it's better to wait until they've done their work before you change the oil. Or actually, it's better to give them your jug of oil and ask them to do it while they're busy. If they're really nice, they won't charge you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this very issue last week. I changed my Subaru Forester's oil, sump washer and filter on Saturday, just to find out I had a blown head gasket, so I had to take the engine to the shop to have it inspected. This means they'll have to tear the engine apart and drain the oil anyway. Unless the oil is spotless and obviously brand new, they're going to throw it away and put in a fresh jug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:56:20.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T18:42:39.710" Score="1" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Honda Accord. It has a miss/rough idle when its parked for more than 4hrs maybe, but specially in the mornings. It's only at the first start, after that it runs normal. I have changed spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, and nothing has change. I took the car to scan it and it shows no sensor is bad, the person said that according to his experience it can be something in the fuel system because scanner is not reading any problem. Only thing I need to do is clean the injectors. Mechanic told me to put in the tank a bottle of fuel injector cleaner but I am wondering if its better to let a professional clean it. Or if there is anything else that can be the problem other than the fuel injectors. Please need help as I have spent a lot of money already and I am very frustrated at this point. Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7536" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T19:04:49.973" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T19:04:49.973" Title="Missing/rough idle at fist start or when parked for over 4 hours" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|accord|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:52:32.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13225" CreationDate="2014-11-17T19:45:39.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing is to check the Battery, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;see my post here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided your battery is good, the following will let you know about the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the vehicle and let it idle. The voltage should be about 2 volts above &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;open circuit voltage&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do a loaded voltage output test. Turn on the high beam headlamps, AC on high, rear defogger etc. Bring the engine RPM up to 2000 RPM and check the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 0.5 volts above open circuit voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to check for AC ripple to make sure the diode rectifiers are still good. Put you meter on AC volts put the black lead on the battery ground and the red lead on the output lead of the alternator. You shouldn't have more than 0.5 AC volts, if you do the alternator is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores in the USA will check you battery and alternator for free. No idea what's available in Russia but it's worth asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T19:45:39.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2014-11-17T20:03:07.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of scenarios that come to mind. Originally, I was going to write this as a comment, but it would simply be too much text. Others, please feel free to give reasons why any of these isn't the answer.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clutch is Failing (manual trans only)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, when your clutch fails, it only catches partially. Even if you give it a whole lot of gas, it's not transferring the torque to the drive shaft entirely. Generally, this will apply whether your car is hot or cold, so the fact that your car's behavior changes after two minutes may mean that this isn't the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust is Leaking Severely/No Backpressure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a loss of horsepower when the downpipe had a major hole or was ripped off entirely. This generally makes for a very loud car, that screams but doesn't go anywhere quickly at all. If your car's exhaust is normal volume, you can likely rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder misfire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a severe loss of horsepower occur when one of the cylinders isn't firing smoothly. I've even seen this happen where the car will idle smoothly, but as soon as load is put on the engine (driving more than 10 mph), the engine operates down a cylinder. This was a accompanied by a blinking &lt;code&gt;Check Engine&lt;/code&gt; light on my 2001 Jetta. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: A blinking check engine light is usually a Very Bad Thing, and (on VW's, at least) comes on when you're doing something that is potentially damaging the car.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T21:48:18.310" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T21:48:18.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2014-11-17T22:55:14.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine braking doesn't cause more wear on the engine if it's done properly. You should never downshift to a gear that is incorrect for the current speed. It varies significantly on each car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to save more fuel, combine coasting on neutral and engine braking when approaching each stop and anticipate in time. Release clutch smoothly when downshifting and keep calm. Keep revs over 1500 or at least above 1200rpm. (Depends on your car.) Sooner you downshift, more longer time the fuel shut off will be engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting to a too low gear will cause wear and damage to the gearbox and clutch. Expect gearbox and clutch failure to occur sooner. Engine braking simply doesn't mean downshifting to an incorrectly low gear so that your car jumps and screams on high revs. That's abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to use the brakes hard at least once or twice a weak (when possible) because otherwise they become jammed or start dragging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7538" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T22:55:14.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22077" CreationDate="2014-11-17T23:07:03.770" Score="5" ViewCount="6380" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason, the heater on our 2011 Chevrolet Equinox 2LT (I4 engine) blows cold air when set to defrost mode regardless of the temperature setting. However, the heater works in any other mode. This is happening both at idle and while moving. Is this normal? If not, what might be the issue and how might it be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2110" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T12:43:23.610" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:14:55.077" Title="2011 Chevrolet Equinox: Heater blows cold air when set to defrost mode" Tags="|chevrolet|heater|equinox|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13245" CreationDate="2014-11-17T23:13:13.137" Score="3" ViewCount="5709" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 06 Dodge Stratus (4 cylender) is showing a P0507 off of the Torque app. My idle is sitting at near 1100 rpm versus the standard 800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read up on the code and started looking for a vaccum leak with a lenght of tubing and an unlit propane torch. Nothing showed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started back looking at Torque and noticed my &quot;fuel trim bank 1 sensor 2&quot; is consistently at 99.2%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried reving the engine in both park and neutral and I start getting a noticible shimmy at about 3,500 rpm. I can't get it any higher. Just a few months ago I could easily make it to 4500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time it starts to shimmy the fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 drops to exactly 0%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I next look for the underlying problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the responses. I ended up cleaning the air intake valve, replacing the map filter (filthier then I would have expected), both of which helped with the idle significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started looking at the PVC valve and some *** had stuck its line to a mounting nub on the case. No vaccum leak since it was technically sealed up. Moved it back where it belongs and she is running better then new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for everones input here. Much appreciated when I cant trust the local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wil never going back to that Firestone again. Their courtesy inspection broke one sensor (literally snapped the tip off my intake air temperature sensor), caused a flat tire and triggered this error code. Plus I'm pretty sure they intentionally loosened one of my tie rod ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastEditorUserId="1287" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T20:34:39.223" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T02:49:14.397" Title="Clearing a P0507 on a Dodge Stratus" Tags="|dodge|rpm|warning-light|air-intake|stratus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-11-18T06:03:55.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it depends upon you and your car maintenance which will determine how long your tire pressure will remain. Most people check their car functions including the car pressure using home tools every  week. So it is depends upon you to check the tire pressure. As my friend who is a mechanic in auto repair shop told me that there is no problem in checking tires regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7541" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T20:58:09.533" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T20:58:09.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13244" CreationDate="2014-11-18T06:43:49.697" Score="2" ViewCount="4664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the O2 sensor on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323 BA 1.8L BP DOCH Lantis&lt;/a&gt; and my mileage actually went down.  The car had the original sensor in it, with about 200,000 kilometers on it and I replaced it with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/oxygen_sensors/index.asp?mode=nml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NGK O2 Sensor&lt;/a&gt; which I bought from the Mazda dealership.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fuelly.com/car/mazda/323/1997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fuelly&lt;/a&gt; similar models from the same year where getting between 9.8 k/l and 12.6 k/l, while I was getting about 8.3 k/l.  After changing the O2 is went down to 7.9 k/l under the same driving conditions.  I've driven 247 kilometers since I changed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives?  Do I need to reset the ECU maybe for it to adjust to the new sensor?  This is exactly the opposite of what I expected based on everything I've read here and elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80cb0efb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the autozone guide&lt;/a&gt; that turbocharged model need to have the negative battery cable removed before installation, but I'm not sure if that's relevant for my model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I reset my ECU, and my MPG's have still been consistently worse after changing the O2 sensor.  I discovered that I had been driving with no thermostat in the car, but putting one in didn't make any difference in my average MPG's. I've also cleaned the throttle body and IAC without any affect on mpg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the spec sheet&lt;/a&gt;, the car is supposed to have a combined fuel economy of 12.65 km / liter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T05:01:12.950" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T07:29:24.640" Title="Changed O2 Sensor and my mileage went down" Tags="|mazda|fuel-consumption|o2-sensor|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13243" CreationDate="2014-11-18T07:39:39.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect your battery to reset your ECU. It won't hurt, and is probably the cheapest and easiest thing you can try. 30 minutes is usually enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other theories as to why your mileage went down, but I think you're on the right track thinking the ECU hasn't learned to use the new data correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that because your new 02 sensor is clean, it reports a higher (more accurate) O2 reading, which tells your ECU to inject more fuel than usual, making you run richer. Which isn't a bad thing in terms of engine longevity, but performance and consumption will suffer, as is your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if it's a different brand, you may need to have your new O2 sensor calibrated. It will require re-flashing your engine management system, so if that's going to cost more than what you expect to save from improved mileage, it may not be worth it. You can expect to pay between $200 and $600 for the exercise. This basically involves having a second, wideband O2 sensor temporarily installed alongside yours and fiddling with ECU lookup tables until both sensors report the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T07:29:24.640" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T07:29:24.640" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13240" CreationDate="2014-11-18T13:22:10.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0507 code&lt;/a&gt; refers to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: A vacuum leak Leaking air intake after the throttle body EGR valve leaking vacuum A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body Failed EVAP system Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to look for would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A vacuum leak Leaking air intake after the throttle body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR valve leaking vacuum &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed EVAP system &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed IAC (idle air controller) or  faulty IAC circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you already checked for vacuum leaks (with a method I do not suggest, btw ... using a fine mist water bottle will provide you with much the same results without the risk of fire), I'd move right down the list. I'd think the high idle may be caused by the IAC, which could easily be solved by a good careful cleaning. Carbon or varnish buildup around the IAC pintle/seat may be to blame, allowing extra air. Before you replace any parts outright, clean the ones listed thoroughly. Also, clear the code between each successive try to make sure you aren't reading an old code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for not being able to reach over 3500 rpm, this is probably a separate issue, which may or may not have been exacerbated by the P0507 code issue. I'd see if you can't get the P0507 code cleared and fixed and then move onto the other. It is much easier trying to diagnose and fix one issue at a time than trying to chase after two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:22:10.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T15:13:14.797" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to fit a total of three headlights on my average 220. What type of modifications do I need to make in the wiring to make it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7545" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T20:58:27.687" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T02:38:10.810" Title="Putting three headlights on my bike" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:34:13.973" Score="5" ViewCount="18469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove only 4000 km in a year. Volkswagen advises that I change the oil in 15,000 km kilometers or 1 year. In this case, what do I need to do, because I have driven only 5000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T23:17:28.517" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T13:45:25.690" Title="Is it mandatory to change oil once a year?" Tags="|vw|oil-change|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:51:48.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's 15,000km or 1 year, which ever comes first.  If you only go 4,000km in 1 year, then you should change the oil at 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T17:51:48.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-18T18:08:12.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what @BrianKnoblauch said, there are other reasons why I wouldn't let it run that long. The main reason is the additive package which is delivered in the oil breaks down over time. Once the additives breakdown, the oil will no longer clean like it's supposed to, nor have the viscosity variance we see in multi-weight oils. Once this happens, your engine will start seeing greater wear, which over time adds up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Something I did fail to mention is if your vehicle is under warranty, you will want to absolutely follow the manufacturer's guidelines if you expect to maintain the warranty. If you don't care about it, it becomes much less of an issue (I do not see most people letting the manufacturer off like that, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T20:19:41.303" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T20:19:41.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2014-11-18T20:09:10.193" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure:  I'm no expert on oils, this is just some of the information I've gathered from researching on my own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add to what @Paulster2 and @BrianKnoblauch said, one of the reasons a time and mileage are both specified has to do with the what happens as the oil is used and as it ages. Part of the oil's job is to neutralize the by-products of combustion.  As the oil is used, these by-products start to contaminate the oil. The more contaminated the oil is, the higher the acidity becomes and the more potential for corrosion to your engine.  Another thing that happens at the oil ages is oxidation, which again raises the acidity of the oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of how much life is left in the oil, you can take a sample of the oil when you change it and have it analyzed.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackstone-labs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackston Labs&lt;/a&gt; is a popular choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The analysis can tell you, among other things, what the viscosity is currently at (it will usually be a little lower than the virgin oil) and it can tell you the total base number, which relates to the oil's acidity and ability to neutralize by-products.  There are other test that give you an idea how much of the &quot;cleansing&quot; additives are left, and all of this together will give you a very good idea of how much life is left in the oil.  Consequently, this information will tell you if you could have gone longer or should have changed it sooner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this with each oil change, you can easily come up with a maintenance schedule for your particular vehicle/conditions/oil choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit is if you do regular oil analyses you can often spot engine wear before it becomes a catastrophic failure.  At $20-30/oil change, it's pretty cheap insurance to invest in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here for some good reading on the subject &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bobistheoilguy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I would stick with the manufacturer recommendations.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T01:13:08.043" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T01:13:08.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T23:14:22.517" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a replacement glass assembly for a 09-13 Matrix (Part 30226), but I have a 2014 Matrix.  I didn't see that it was for 09-13 until it arrived and I don't want to open it in case I need to return it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From pictures, it looks like it should attach, but I don't know whether it's the right size and shape for my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there is any significant difference between a 2013 and a 2014 Matrix side mirror?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7550" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T23:14:22.517" Title="Will 2009-2013 Toyota Matrix heated power mirror glass assembly fit a 2014 Matrix?" Tags="|toyota|matrix|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T00:04:57.463" Score="3" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 VW Golf, automatic. Today after I parked the car a very loud accelerating sound came out of the engine, it sounded like I had pressed the pedal all the way down but I had not, I cannot remember if I was in park or drive but my feet was not in the accelerating pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car starts and drives fine, no more noise but I am wondering if I need to do something about this. Any idea what it might be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7557" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T22:03:23.213" Title="accelerating noise while the car is parked- VW GOLF" Tags="|vw|noise|acceleration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13278" CreationDate="2014-11-19T00:25:37.543" Score="3" ViewCount="7175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got 4 new tires on my 2008 Honda Fit Sport. Here is the report from the alignment: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbRnz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic said that nothing can be done about the rear-left wheel because the alignment is not adjustable. Is that true? If so, how can I use this car without going through tires yearly??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T22:31:13.723" LastActivityDate="2023-05-08T23:15:31.120" Title="Is the 2008 Honda Fit Rear Left Wheel Alignment Not Adjustable?" Tags="|honda|alignment|fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6898" CreationDate="2014-11-19T01:59:56.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's necessarily a wiring problem. &#xA;Here are my thoughts, having just rebuilt two door lock actuators in one of my vehicles: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First - the rear driver side door sounds like the door lock actuator motor is dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - the other issues may or may not be related to the actuators.  Can you answer this, do the intermittent problems happen only when using the keyfob?  i.e. If using the key to lock/unlock works, and the interior manual locks work, and the interior switches work - then you just need a new battery for the fob.  Otherwise it may be a door lock actuator - start at the driver's door, as sometimes the others are dependant upon this actuator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third - with the locks activating while driving, this could be due to a broken or disconnected rod that connects to the actuator. The door lock actuator is usually connected to some rods/cables that run to the interior and exterior handles and locks. If one of these rods comes out of place, as your driving it may be bouncing around causing the lock to trigger (it thinks the key is being turned or the interior manual lock is being switched).  Again, I would look first at the driver's door for this one, but the front passenger's door might also do this.  The rear doors don't usually have provisions to lock the other doors, and the wording of your original question made me thinkg it was all the doors that would lock/unlock while driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by pulling off the door panels and just looking at the door lock actuators.  Is there a rod or cable hanging loose?  Trace the rods/cables back - is everything connected at the other end?  If so, then it may be a wiring issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you have the panels off, try the interior switches, exterior (key) lock (have a partner do this while you look at each door), and interior manual locks for each door.  Does the actuator move with all these events?  If not the actuator motor is probably bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some research online - you may be able to replace just the motor for less than $20.  You may have to replace the whole actuator at around ≈$120±20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have a shop replace the door lock actuator, probably 2-3hrs billable at ≈$100/hr plus parts, so probably somewhere around $320-420/door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T12:25:50.733" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T12:25:50.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:01:53.217" Score="0" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolant light came on so I took it to a mechanic he flushed it and put knew coolant some special g-12 coolant but the light came on again so I took a look at it and found oil in it . So I looked at the oil stick and the oil has no sign water I don't understand why the coolant would have oil. But the oil has no sign of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7558" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T03:19:30.587" Title="Oil in coolent on my volkswagen Touareg" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13258" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:08:08.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if its not residue (brown stuff) coming from your overflow reseviour, otherwise I'd say it could possibly be a rear main seal (have to remove transmission to replace) or head gasket (which I highly doubt unless you've overheated it around the red marker for a long period of time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:08:08.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12681" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:25:53.387" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually check it weekly as you do lose 3 PSI or so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also go to your local tyre dealer and they may sell nitrogen which is a lot better then normal air, as the compounds are a lot thickers and cant easily escape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nitrogen check = 3-6 months&#xA;normal air check = 1-4 weeks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:25:53.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13258" CreationDate="2014-11-19T03:19:30.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to be &lt;em&gt;sure&lt;/em&gt; what the substance is, in your coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are you determining that it is oil and not transmission fluid? They often get confused by people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to be sure is to check the levels of the transmission fluid and oil, depending on the leakage, usually the low level one is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are absolutely sure it is indeed engine oil, then it would most likely not be your transmission cooler (which would be one of my first guesses for something in the coolant). If it were the transmission cooler you'd see trans fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It most likely wouldn't be a head gasket unless you see coolant when checking the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess an intake gasket, sight unseen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T03:19:30.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2014-11-19T08:20:21.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An FYI it is a very bad idea to use automobile oil in your motorcycle. The reason behind this is because auto oil often has additives in it that when used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch (which most do) will wreak havoc on your clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, auto oil filters may be comprised of more fibers/elements that can perhaps cause higher/lower oil pressures in your motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my honest opinion, why risk such an investment like your motorcycle in saving a few bucks when buying an OEM filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T08:20:21.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13161" CreationDate="2014-11-19T08:25:42.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick and easy industry method for determining sources of leaks is to clean the suspected area thoroughly with heavy degreaser (brake cleaner, carb cleaner, kerosene) and then spray the suspect area with Tough Actin' Tinactin. Start the motorcycle and let it warm to operating temperature. Keep a close eye on the area you just sprayed. The tinactin will discolor the moment it comes in contact with any type of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T08:25:42.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T15:34:22.207" Score="3" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my 2006 Corolla in dash clock started behaving weirdly. I turned my car off to get gas today (Nov 19, 8 degrees outside) and when I turned it back on, the clock was showing numbers such as : 18:98, 10:90, 9:69. I turned it off and let it sit then turned it back on. Still getting strange numbers. I tried messing with the H and M buttons but the times just got stranger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is a problem with the clock or with the cold temperatures. My car is in a garage at night and during the day when I'm home and it was working fine when I left the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone encountered this or know how to fix it? The videos I am seeing online specifically have instructions pointing to fixing a clock when it starts to dim or isn't readable, so I'm not sure if removing it and soldering the joints on the circuit board would work or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7561" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T20:48:19.580" Title="Toyota Corolla 2006 Clock Showing Weird Numbers: 18:98, 10:90" Tags="|toyota|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T16:12:28.127" Score="3" ViewCount="1574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Infiniti I30 in really good condition except for this issue I've been experiencing lately with increasing frequency. What happens is, and there's no surefire way to reproduce the issue, but it won't start (no click, nothing), the doors won't unlock via the remote - basically I get nothing. That is, until I start messing with the headlights. Once I turn them on, 9/10 times the car starts up immediately with no issues, and the remote and everything else continues to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to reproduce this issue on a few occasions to my mechanic but was unsuccessful (always works that way hehe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers on how to solve this/narrow down what the cause is would be absolutely appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7562" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:35:37.360" Title="Car won't start/respond to remote or anything until headlights are turned on" Tags="|electrical|starting|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13268" CreationDate="2014-11-19T16:35:22.637" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the most efficient way to run the AC in my car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my 2007 Subaru I can set the temperature to 65 F and the temperature will reach and stay at a comfy 65 degrees. But I imagine the A/C compressor works in an &quot;on/off&quot; sort of way and that the temperature is being maintained by mixing cold air with warm air. Therefore gas is going toward running the compressor to create cold air that isn't being used. Is this a correct understanding of the system? And if it is, does that mean it would be more efficient to run the AC on full blast, turn it off when it's cold enough, and repeat? Or is the difference in gas consumption negligible and not worth thinking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T18:34:27.173" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:34:27.173" Title="Most Efficient Way To Run AC" Tags="|ac|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="96445" CreationDate="2014-11-19T17:04:50.530" Score="5" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse, and presumably other Mitsubishis of the same era, has a control over by the rear windshield wiper control, near the center vents.  It's got 2 pictures of a person sitting.  The bottom half of both pictures is black.  The top image has the top portion in blue.  The bottom image has the top portion in white.  I presume it has something to do with the vent/hvac control system, but I don't know what.  I've tried flipping it between the 2 positions numerous times, but can't tell a difference in anything.  What &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; this mystery control do!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T12:30:07.913" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T10:50:08.173" Title="What's this strangely marked control on my Eclipse?" Tags="|mitsubishi|hvac|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13266" CreationDate="2014-11-19T17:32:07.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't said how old your car is...  Old cars did indeed function as you describe with the AC compressor cycling on and off.  It was either compressing, or it wasn't.  You had to size the compressor for the worst case cooling need (i.e. relatively large) and when the compressor kicked in, it was quite noticeable (i.e. the engine would jerk as the compressor clutch closed).  Of course, this is not very efficient, and it is really hard on the engine and compressor to operate in this manner.  But those were the old days....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, cars have variable displacement compressors.  For high cooling needs, the compressor can work with a large amount of refrigerant, and then scale back to compress less for maintaining temp.  So, when the clutch closes and the displacement is small, there is no jerking or sudden load on the engine or compressor.  Some variable compressors don't even use a clutch.  Basically, the compressor is controlled so that it does the minimum amount of work necessary to deliver the needed cooling.  You won't improve on that through manual intervention IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T17:32:07.940" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13170" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:04:30.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ozone is used only as a purifying agent.  Ozone decomposes irreversibly in water to form O2 (2 O3 -&gt; 3 O2).  That is, when you buy the water, any ozone that was in the water is long gone and therefore you don't need to worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distilled and de-ionized water are NOT the same thing.  Distilled is boiled and then the steam condensed (as described in the other answer).  There is virtually nothing in such water (it will quickly absorb gas from the air and dissolve any residue in the container used to hold it, but in principle it is pure).  It contains no ions &lt;em&gt;and nothing else&lt;/em&gt; (actually, that isn't even quite true.... it does have H+ and OH- ions in equilibrium, but those aren't contaminants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;De-ionized water, on the other hand, has had all its &lt;em&gt;ions&lt;/em&gt; removed (all contaminant ions).  Not all water soluble substances ionize in water.  So, it is possible for de-ionized water to have non-ionic compounds dissolved in the water (e.g. ethanol).  Compare that with distilled which in principle has nothing in it....  They are not the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:04:30.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13265" CreationDate="2014-11-19T19:35:37.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove and clean both of your battery cables and posts, put them back on nice and tight. If that doesn't fix the problem, start checking the main ground wires from the battery. You likely have a poor connection at one of those places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:35:37.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-20T02:06:22.063" Score="1" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7 magnum, and I have replaced the radiator, thermostat and water pump. I keep having to fill the reservoir every couple of days. Fluid keeps coming out of the over flow tube. Any suggestions on what could cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7568" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T11:16:53.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T17:54:42.837" Title="Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4.7 Losing Coolant" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13246" CreationDate="2014-11-20T02:38:10.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a Pulsar 220?  If so, you probably don't want two full-blown headlights, if the electrical system on a 220 is anything like that of the 135LS.  On my bike, the electricals can barely keep up with all the lights on, plus both signal lights blinking (unless I raise the idling speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably look into adding accessory lights, instead.  For example, I've managed to attach two cheap bullet LEDs (mounted on the forks) and they work well enough that I sometimes forget to turn on my headlight.  Mounted in this manner, I've also managed to achieve a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motolight.com/page/481477660&quot;&gt;&quot;triangle of light&quot;&lt;/a&gt; that just might let me be a bit more visible to oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2921" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T02:38:10.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13273" CreationDate="2014-11-20T10:40:25.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant coming out of the overflow is a sign of over-pressurisation. The cheapest cause of this is the pressure cap failing - have you replaced that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main causes of it are overheating, or gas getting into the system and so increasing the pressure, usually through a head gasket breach between a cylinder and the water jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you noticed any signs of overheating? If not, it might be worth doing a compression test on the cylinders to look for signs of a head gasket blow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T10:40:25.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13256" CreationDate="2014-11-20T15:54:41.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, there aren't any alignment adjustments possible at the rear of the Honda Fit. Here is the reason why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87Xnp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture shows the front and rear suspension on your vehicle. It shows it to be made as a torsion suspension. At the front of the torsion bar are two pivot points which locates the suspension, then there is a spring and and shock with supports the load of the vehicle and dampens any road obstacles. There is nothing there to adjust to correct your issue. The whole setup moves up or down at the tire side while pivoting off the front where it is attached to the vehicle itself. If the road surface is uneven, the torsion bar will flex to provide stability, as well as while cornering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a very simple, basic setup, it works quite well. The downside is, there aren't any adjustments to be had. There are two things to think about here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since this is at the rear of the vehicle and the tires are just being pulled along (these trail the vehicle), you should have a minimal expectation of wear. The front tires will &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; wear faster because of ever changing geometries while turning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; way I can see there being a problem here is if there was actual damage done to the torsion suspension portion or to the wheel bearings themselves. I would bet if there were an issue with either part of this, the alignment guy would have said something when you got it done. At this time, I'm highly doubting there are any issues of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T17:09:38.867" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:09:38.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13172" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:26:51.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked further into the issue, and have discovered that the OEM battery from Volkswagen does actually have the MIN and MAX signs on the side of the case, and the case itself is actually transparent, however, due to it being wrapped into the warming blanket, together with also being in a protective bucket, it would appear that it's very difficult to actually ascertain the condition of the electrolyte from the outside of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Check-Car-Battery-Water-Levels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Check-Car-Battery-Water-Levels&lt;/a&gt;, it would appear that the easiest way to know whether or not the battery requires a top-up is by looking into the filler tubes for the presence of the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;meniscus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own case, as per above, my first go was to blindly add 2&amp;times; 10ml syringe shots into each cell (I figured a 6-year old battery must have lost enough water during all the time it was in use), for a total of 120ml of distilled water; when doing this (I did each cell individually, without knowing what the next one would bring), I did notice that the middle cells did appear to have meniscus, whereas the side cells certainly did not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequently, after I realised how easy it was to add the water to the battery after all, and after no accidents or explosions for a day or two, but, more importantly, still not having the battery hold much charge overnight around 4&amp;deg;C, I had decided to have a second go to ensure each filler tube reaches meniscus, as per the newly discovered guide as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into each filler tube; if all I could see is a sea of water, I added a shot or two; otherwise, I would go to the next filler tube; this approach had me do: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 of 10ml shots into the first frontal cell, which was facing the front of the car, and closest to the empty space that must be quite hot from all the heat and quite windy from all the air;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 shots into the second cell;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;none into the third, fourth or fifth; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and 2 shots into the final sixth cell, to ensure meniscus in each cell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings the total distilled water addition at 120ml top up + 120ml to reach meniscus on the side cells, for a total of 240ml overall, or some 40ml per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, it seems like it might have worked -- I was able to successfully start the car after 24 hours of disuse, although my whole experiment is not really a controlled one, due to the varying ambient temperature between 0&amp;deg;C and 30&amp;deg;C during all of these experiments, as well as altitude variation between SoCal, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas, that surely must have been affecting the ability of the electrolyte to collect, hold and supply the charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kinda wish to have had done it earlier -- would have saved me a lot of trouble, and would have had a higher likelihood of fixing the issue for a longer term!  With the proper tools (oral-use-only 10ml syringe from a Pharmacy, plus latex gloves to hold the filler-tube caps; and a flat key to pose as a screwdriver; plus the distilled water for small appliances), the job is easier than it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:26:51.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13282" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:32:53.337" Score="5" ViewCount="2846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ordered a small 2 stage snow blower.  I live in the midwest US and some winters we don't get a lot of snow, so it's possible that I could go a whole winter without running the snowblower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that it's bad for an engine to just sit, so I'm considering making a schedule to run the engine periodically during the winter (then summerize it for the summer).  Is that a good idea, and if so, how often should I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7574" LastEditorUserId="7574" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T23:18:02.143" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T11:03:30.653" Title="Recommended maximum amount of time to allow a small engine to sit without being run" Tags="|small-engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2014-11-21T00:00:52.457" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My way is to change the carb on the engine. The bigger the carb the more powerful it gets. This is how it works the more air and fuel you give your engine the more power it makes, but remember if you put a too big carb you might burn the piston, then wish you all the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7577" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T10:24:44.027" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:24:44.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2014-11-21T01:06:55.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always good to start your engines periodically no matter the size. I don't know any secret formulas but here is what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's &lt;strong&gt;small motor&lt;/strong&gt;, like a snow blower or lawn mower, I start them at least once every 3 months, if they are going to sit for extended periods of time. I also use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000LJKZSM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;siphon&lt;/a&gt; to take all the fuel out of them while sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;cars&lt;/strong&gt; I &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to start any car that I don't drive often, every couple of weeks. I will normally drive it for about 20-30 minutes, 1-2 times per month. While not driving it I keep a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0051D3MP6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;battery maintainer&lt;/a&gt; on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to leave fuel in your cars/small motors while they sit for extended periods of time you should add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000CCML3K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fuel stabilizer&lt;/a&gt; to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note, I have an old Chevy that I rarely drive, but keep because I love the car. I was really good the first couple of years of starting it every couple of weeks or so and taking it for a short drive, but this past year I got lazy. The car is in terrible shape right now, other than a completely drained battery 3 out of the 4 wheels of seized and I need to replace a good portion of my brake lines. I let it sit for 7 months without starting it or driving it; lesson learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T01:06:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13288" CreationDate="2014-11-21T04:18:12.990" Score="4" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my vehicle's front right suspension replaced by some mechanics. Before driving off from the mechanics I had a look at the front and noticed that the right wheel (driver's side) has the top slightly pointing outwards (positive camber) and the left wheel was vertical (no angle visible to the eye). Part of the job included wheel alignment. The vehicle drives straight without hands on the streering wheel, before it would go left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this difference on the angle normal/acceptable? Or should I call these guys asking them to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:33:37.510" Title="Front wheels have different camber after suspension replacement" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T06:56:36.537" Score="3" ViewCount="41654" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of yesterday, my 2002 Honda Civic no longer starts or even cranks, even with a boost from another vehicle. Check engine light isn't on, and the car is currently too unstable for me to get a reading from my Bluetooth OBD reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what we currently know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the key in the on position (II), sometimes (but not always), the car goes totally bonkers, with random dash lights blinking and a variety of different clicks coming from the dash, the gear shift, and the glove box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both battery connectors are less than a year old and have zero corrosion. Just to be sure, we tightened up both, but this had no effect. It doesn't seem to be the connectors or a loose connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't have the equipment to test battery levels, but the battery is a premium brand, is less than a year old, and because I only go out about once a month, is always disconnected when I'm not using it to avoid vampire drain prematurely killing it. I've dealt with many a dead battery in the past (thanks, vampire drain!), and I've found that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They always accept a jump start, although they require one each and every time you start the car. Currently, my car doesn't accept a jump start, as stated above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Though the battery may have enough juice to turn on the dash lights, dome lights, etc. when you first enter the car, when you try to start it, it chews through all remaining power and won't try to start twice. Currently, I can attempt to start my car indefinitely -- it just won't do anything but click at me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also believe the battery to be fine because we hooked up a trouble light to it and tried to start the car. It didn't so much as flicker, which indicates to us that the battery isn't the issue -- the car isn't even trying to pull power from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried hooking the trouble light up to the starter (specifically, the cable that looks like a speaker wire), and it's getting no power whatsoever. We also tried smacking the starter with a screwdriver while starting, as is commonly suggested, but this had no effect (as expected), so we believe the starter is fine and currently suspect this is some sort of electrical system problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do we go from here? Is it obvious what the problem is based on what I've said, or are there additional steps we could take to further narrow this down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7580" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T01:45:10.050" Title="Honda Civic 2002 - Car won't start; electrical system issue suspected" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2014-11-21T10:16:51.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the battery is good (and no indication at this point that it isn't), the issue you have is in there is a grounding issue which is keeping the power from your battery to your starter. This is most likely caused in the wire going from your battery to your starter, your battery to ground, or both. You can do some  things to try and see where the problem lies: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, check to ensure the ground is solid and the connection at the starter is good. To do this, disconnect the ground at the battery (safety first), then disconnect each from where they are mounted at the end away from the battery. Make sure these connections are clean and both are in good shape. Once you do this, reconnect the battery ground and try your car again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next, check each of the two wires I mentioned above to ensure there aren't any &quot;fat&quot; spots in them. Sometimes corrosion can get inside of these wires. You'll need to check them inch-by-inch to see where it might be fat. If you find it, you'll need to replace the entire length of cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot find a problem with either of these (the problem is still in the wires somewhere), you can try to use jumper cables to provide power directly to the starter and ground. In essence you'd be bypassing the wires to ensure this is where the problem lies. You'd want to do each wire in turn so you can see which one is the actual problem. Here, the first thing to do is to bypass the ground. Connect your ground lead from the negative batter post to a bare piece of metal on the engine and see if this changes your situation. If it doesn't, connect the positive cable clamp at the starter solenoid first, keeping the other positive clamp disconnected and safely away from the vehicle (you don't want it touching anything and grounding out somewhere ... a second person comes in handy here). When it's attached at the starter, attach it to the battery's positive post and try the vehicle again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the problem when you bypass the wiring on the negative side of the battery, it may be that there isn't a solid enough ground from the engine to the body of the car to get good continuity. Instead of tracking this down, it may just be easier to get a new grounding strap and add this in yourself. If it shows up on the positive side, you'll need to replace the wire with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you may want to take your battery down and have it tested. &lt;em&gt;Sometimes&lt;/em&gt; batteries go bad for inexplicable reasons. If it's only a year or so old, it should still be under warranty and can be replaced for little or nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:16:51.257" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13283" CreationDate="2014-11-21T10:33:37.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the alignment is off, take it back to the shop and have them double check it for you. They could have made a mistake ... it does and can happen. They should have given you an alignment report which would give you the before/after shot of what the alignment looked like. Make sure all of these numbers are in the green. If they didn't give you an alignment sheet, I'd consider the alignment suspect. Most tire places will check your alignment for a nominal fee, if all else fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing is if the wheel may have been turned slightly when you got the vehicle back. When the wheels start turning, the inside wheel will start tilting before it is noticeable on the outside tire. It may have just looked off, but may be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:33:37.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2014-11-21T11:03:30.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a small engine, your best bet is to &lt;strong&gt;ensure it runs once a year, then as you need it during the season it'll be used&lt;/strong&gt;. Bad/stale gas is the big killer of small engines (mainly the carb, but if the carb doesn't work, your small engine won't run). Then there are two things you can do when putting it away for the &quot;off-season&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you know the engine is not going to be used for some time (more than a couple of months), or you think the chances are good it's not going to be run, leave the engine running and shut the gas off to the carburetor, then let the engine run until it dies. This will ensure most, if not all, of the fuel in the carburetor is gone. With it dry, there is no chance of the carb getting plugged up from bad gas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For all of your small engines, put some type of fuel stabilizer in the gas, such as Sta-Bil. Sta-Bil will keep the gas fresh for up to two years if used properly. Since I started using it in my small engine gas, I've had no issues with starting or running my small engines. Fuel stabilizers are now formulated to negate the effects of ethanol fuel. Ethanol absorbs water, which then plugs the small orifices in the carb, which then basically starves the engine for fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T11:03:30.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T15:34:20.670" Score="4" ViewCount="1911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been plagued by intermittent OBDII P0403 check engine light for months. I changed the EGR valve, had the harness replaced but to no avail. The workshop said it is the PCM and quoted a hefty price for it which I declined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feeling my engine &quot;stumble&quot; then the CEL come up I decided to give changing spark plugs a go. Changed it with NGK iridium spark plugs. To my surprise the spark plugs were standard Denso spark plugs. One cylinder had oil stains on the coil pack and spark plug. The valve gasket was replaced earlier so I presume this will not happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this the CEL never came back again. I wonder if I have really resolved the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still experience the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent engine vibration when accelerating at around 2100rpm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When idling my intake temp goes up quite rapidly from 55 to 70 deg Celcius. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant is ard 98-100 deg Celcius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wonder if anyone has a clue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T15:44:44.357" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T14:38:13.887" Title="Mazda 3 1.6 OBDII P0403 resolved after changing spark plugs?" Tags="|mazda|egr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13292" CreationDate="2014-11-21T18:01:06.760" Score="4" ViewCount="10961" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is on a 2008 Chevy Impala, 3.5L V6, non-flexfuel.  Recently got cylinder 1 misfire / ignition failure codes.  An investigation revealed that mice had gotten into my garage, made themselves at home under the lower intake manifold, and chewed the wires going to the cylinder 1 fuel injector to pieces.  The rest of the injectors are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were some other kind of electronic device I wouldn't hesitate to cut out the bad portion, solder in a new bit of wire, and close up it all up with shrink-wrap...  but I'm not 100% certain this would be a good idea in this situation.  So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I patch in new wires to replace the part that has been ruined, or should I replace the entire wiring harness?&lt;/strong&gt; (there is still enough good wire between the connector and where the wire branches off from the main harness that I think I could do it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I can, do I need to make special allowances for the potentially high-heat environment?  Do I need wires with heat-resistant insulation?  Should I avoid shrink wrap?  Use different electrical tape (or no tape)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to replace the upper intake manifold gaskets while I'm there?  The car has about 95K on it and the gaskets look like they're in good condition (no idea if they've ever been done), but maybe it's a good idea to replace since I've gone through the effort of removing the manifold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other gaskets, o-rings, etc, that I should look at or replace while I've got the top off?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm having a heck of a time disconnecting the wiring from the injector.  Is there a trick I'm missing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T19:44:01.980" Title="Repair or replace frayed fuel injection wiring harness?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|gm|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13291" CreationDate="2014-11-21T19:44:01.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just replace the injector plug. I believe it should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UeMrS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can order it from RockAuto.com for ~$6 (I'm sure you can get it from many other places as well. I would soldier this in place using heat shrink to seal them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the gaskets go, your vehicle uses the gaskets with the rubber-ish sealing portion (don't know what they are made out of). You can chance using them again if the rubber portion is not torn nor hard. It must be subtle and pliable to do this though. Personally, I think I'd spring for the extra $26 and put new ones in there. Better to get it done right in the first place then having to redo the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you took the manifold off without breaking any other gaskets or o-rings, I wouldn't worry about them. If you have broken them loose, I'd plan on getting them replaced along with the manifold gasket. When I take a manifold off of the heads, I try my darnedest to keep everything together that I can for two reasons: less nuts/bolts to keep track of; easier to get everything back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have not taken this type off connector off of an injector before, so your guess is as good as mine. Once you get the new connector, it should be very self evident as to how to pull it off. I do know they can be a bugger, but usually it isn't too hard. Don't force it off, though, as you'll end up breaking an injector and that'll cost you another $50-60 to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if you are going to leave your car sit for a length of time in the garage, put a couple of dryer sheets in strategic places under the hood. Mice don't like the smell, I understand, and will leave your wiring alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T19:44:01.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2014-11-21T20:01:49.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem might be with the body control module (BCM). The PCM sends the signal to the BCM, which turns the fans on. Or you can buy a separate temperature fan relay system with a temp probe and bypass the system. It will work as normal cooling when needed only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7586" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T16:55:47.020" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T16:55:47.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13295" CreationDate="2014-11-21T21:17:47.340" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to do find evidence of rustproofing done on the bottom of a car? We are talking rustproofing done with &quot;grease&quot; / &quot;oil&quot; techniques at regular garages. What should I expect to see after rustproofing has been done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7588" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T22:00:31.613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T22:12:23.477" Title="Evidence of rustproofing" Tags="|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2014-11-21T22:00:03.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look under your car, you'll be able to feel it because it will have a texture to it. You'll probably also see areas where there is over spray from it. You'll see this on mufflers or exhaust pipes because most of the time when it's sprayed on, it's done pretty quickly and very willy-nilly (all over the place). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rust-proofing (or undercoating) isn't &lt;em&gt;grease&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;oil&lt;/em&gt; based, it is a coating, not unlike Linex you'd put in the bed of a truck. The main difference is, it won't be as thick. It is a rubberized coating which helps protect from the road-nastiness. While it is billed as &quot;rust-proof&quot;, it just prolongs it from happening. Sooner or later, the rust-proofing will come off and there you go. When I say &quot;come off&quot;, I'm saying it basically peels off. This takes many years after it is applied. For the most part, it works pretty well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply your own undercoating if you so desire. Companies such as Eastwood has products available which will allow you to do such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T22:12:23.477" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T22:12:23.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-22T14:19:31.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 05 Mk5 Golf TDI. I have to jump it in the mornings as its battery is dead, but it will last all day if I'm driving it. It will start straight up if I stop for a hour or more, but if left over night it will be dead again in the morning. Also, the brake lights come on of their own in the early hours of the morning unless I go out to the car and pump the brake peddle. Any idea what might be causing these things to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7589" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T16:17:08.193" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T11:42:23.910" Title="Mk5 Golf TDI with battery drain and brake lights coming on on their own" Tags="|electrical|battery|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13296" CreationDate="2014-11-22T16:39:40.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mk5 has a Central Control Module (I also saw it was called a &lt;em&gt;Central Convenience Module&lt;/em&gt;). The CCM controls the brake lights, as well as many other things. If the brakes lights are coming on weirdly of their own accord, it's probably due to the CCM. I believe the only way to fix it is to replace it, which seems to have happened to many Golf owners. I believe the CCM is located under the dash above the pedal assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zt2SK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T16:39:40.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2014-11-22T17:10:17.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use ramps for the rear.   Put 2 blocks of wood behind the front wheels, so when you back up on the rear ramps, the front wheels will be on top of the wood blocks. The front will be high enough to jack the center, and then put jack stands under the 2 front jack points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7590" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T17:10:17.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2014-11-23T02:45:40.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Canada and I can tell you the wear on starting an engine is greater than idling for a few minutes, guaranteed, especially since here in the winter it can only take 20-30 minutes for your engine to drop from full operating temp down to room temperature if it isn't running, and cold starting an engine means less viscous oil in the crankcase as well as little to no oil on the valvetrain during the first rotation or two. Additionally, all engines apply more fuel during warm up than during normal operational temperatures, simply to help them warm up faster. You should NEVER drive a cold engine (any time of year), get it to at least 75% of full operating temp before driving it, A: because you are going to be running a rich fuel/air mix during warm up and B: Metals (especially aluminum which most modern 4 cylinders are made of this) does not like to heat up fast, you increase the risk of metal warpage, I've seen people blow head gaskets by hammering a cold engine in the dead of winter and warping the head, that isn't a 10$ fix... that's a 1000$ fix if you get a shop to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb I use personally is everytime I start driving a new vehicle I first time how long it takes the engine to warm up from cold, I then memorize that time and if I'm going to be stopping anywhere for LONGER than that time I will turn my engine off, lets say it takes 10 minutes to warm it up {at -40f it takes more like 25, but lets say 10} and I'm going to run into a gas station to grab something, if I'm going to be in and out in under 10 minutes, I will leave the engine going (with the doors locked mind you, spare keys and keyless entry are pretty much a must have for that) but if I'm going into a friends house for 15 minutes, I'll shut the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rough guide, you want your engine hotter for high RPM driving sprints (highway trips) to help the heat transfer to your transmission and exterior components so they don't heat up too quickly either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theres a hell of a lot more I could say about this topic, but I'll end it here, I'm hungry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7594" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T02:45:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13296" CreationDate="2014-11-23T10:31:50.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before changing any expensive parts on the Golf, check the brake light switches, very carefully. There are two switches on the vehicle activated by the brake pedal. Whilst the Golf is a very good example of European vehicle manufacture, its brake light switches could be thought of as flimsy. They do miss behave and fail, producing various side effects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T10:31:50.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2014-11-23T10:52:51.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0403 is indeed the EGR &lt;em&gt;system&lt;/em&gt;. The system includes actuators and electrical wiring and thier voltages, which all must be correct, not just the EGR valve assembly. Vacuum hoses and the EGR control solonoid are areas to check carefully. The PCV valve and system are also required to be checked carefully as they can affect the EGR valve if leaking air. The final part is a scanner check to see that all of the vehicles monitors have run - completed a drive cycle. If not why not. The Mazda 3 series of vehicles run very lean and are susceptable to this type of fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T10:52:51.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T20:12:26.170" Score="2" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have new radiator put in due to leak, 96 Dodge Ram Van 1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have little to no heat, changed t-stat, flushed heater core, burped system on incline. Heat is slightly better. When I rev the engine it has great heat; let off and let idle, heat goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help all answers appreciated! Next thing is the water pump. No leaks anywhere! Temp gauge reading normal then drops to 1/3 mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7600" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T12:34:54.580" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:46:35.763" Title="Little heat at idle great heat when reving engine" Tags="|dodge|car|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T02:07:30.957" Score="2" ViewCount="16112" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does timing jump cause engine replacement?&#xA;===========================================&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My TOYOTA Camry 1999 was driving OK. I do check under the hood on and off, I did not do that check for awhile. Last week my car started OK. Within two(2) minute driving RPM started decreasing and lost power. The car engine cut-off. It crank the engine as I turned ignition, but it did not start. I towed the car home. I towed the car to auto service shop. My mechanic is telling that my timing belt was jumped and hit water pump. He did leak test and find leakage in middle 2 cylinders.  He wanted to replace the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did not drive on high speed and drove 2 minutes from starting. My&#xA;  car has non-interference engine, so it had timing belt instead of&#xA;  timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this situation cause such engine damage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to fix leakage in middle 2 cylinders as alternate to motor replacement?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If yes, what is it called?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does any mechanic able to do that?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have auto transmission. Did switching to neutral in this situation help?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your insights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Info.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your replies/suggestions (insights). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My car has less than 100K miles on odometer.&lt;/strong&gt; Timing belt did not break in my car. It jumped off the pulley &amp;amp; hit water pump. Did such event impact/damage cylinders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He removed upper timing cover, front passenger wheel and rotated the camshaft manually to do leak down test . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He performed the leak down test using Cylinder Leak-Down Tester as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinde...ter-94190.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinde...ter-94190.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It showed the following reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outer two Cylinders 0 - 10 % (Close to Green)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inner two Cylinders 100 - 80 % (Red)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone one work on such situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shared your thoughts. He was upset that I did not trust his judgement. He is not liking to challenge his experience. My mechanic is saying. The reason for leak in two cylinders is , piston hit the valve while my belt jumped. It caused this damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastEditorUserId="7602" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T13:22:31.927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:22:31.927" Title="Does timing jump cause engine replacement?" Tags="|belt|motors|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13043" CreationDate="2014-11-24T11:36:44.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found it! Battery box with &quot;some modification&quot;. There is DIY video:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Tf3fngKA-c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Tf3fngKA-c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:36:44.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2014-11-24T12:04:28.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This answer is predicated upon your engine being a 5S-FE I4 found in many Camrys.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this situation cause such engine damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. Since your engine is a non-interference motor, it should not suffer damage due to this type of an issue. There may be other things going on, though, which may be the root of what your mechanic is saying is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix leakage in middle 2 cylinders as alternate to motor replacement? If yes, what is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Your mechanic could possibly have the head fixed or replaced. The leak down test checks to see if the valves are seating/sealing properly. Obviously they aren't, unless the mechanic is lying to you. There may be other things going on causing the leak down issue, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does any mechanic able to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Most any mechanic should be able to fix (or get it fixed) or replace the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have auto transmission. Did switching to neutral in this situation help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. It would not have have made a difference. Once the belt slips, timing is off. Since your motor is non-interference, it really doesn't make any difference anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, I think I'd get a second opinion. Your mechanic should be able to diagnose this, though. If there truly is a leak down problem, I'd say something is worn out and needs replaced, such as the head. The mechanic may just be looking for the easy score, because he can make more money replacing the engine than by reworking or replacing the head. Engine replacement takes less time and is much less demanding work than doing the head. Before you go off on your mechanic, though, I'd ask him why he believes the engine needs replacement versus getting the head work done ... there may be a good reason why he is suggesting to replace the motor. Ask for an itemized list of what would have to be done to get the head fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T12:32:10.277" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T12:32:10.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13304" CreationDate="2014-11-24T12:40:00.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two areas I think I'd look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you put the right thermostat in (temperature wise)? And did it get put in the correct way? If a colder than normal thermostat was inserted, it could possibly cause this issue. If it was put in upside down, there would be a greater chance. One of the main things which is bothering me here is you saying engine temperature is normal at idle, and goes down when you rev the engine. I'm not sure if there is even enough room to put the t-stat in upside down, but when it is, it can cause some strange issues. Coolant will not flow correctly if it is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the Dodge's have this issue, but I have seen some water pumps which have there impeller eaten away by corrosion. Absolutely kills water flow. Yours may be in the some stage of this. Unfortunately, the only way to tell is by removing the water pump. This would cost you some time and a gasket or two to find out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T12:40:00.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:48:24.687" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2013 Passat TDI. Have an oil analysis done and quit speculating. I change at 8.5 to 9k as that is when the additive package was low on my last analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7604" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:48:24.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:51:11.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up works great for me, the only fear I have is someone vandalizing them from the attention it brings having them up. It makes it easier for me to scrape the window quickly to get on the road faster.  It doesn't hurt the wipers having them up.  It does, however, keep me from being impatient and ripping them up when frozen to scrape under them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7605" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:51:11.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2014-11-24T19:33:43.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You surely want a second opinion, but he might be thinking if you have a lot of miles on your motor you may be causing more problems just by doing a head job. I would go to a reputable garage and not some little mom and pop garage, because a reputable garage has certified techs working there. They have been through school and taken tests to get those certifications. They know their stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7606" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T23:24:29.617" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T23:24:29.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13331" CreationDate="2014-11-24T19:47:07.960" Score="5" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I opened my stator case to inspect what I thought was a bad stator. I discovered the following issues with my magnets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broken Magnets:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsClt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken-magnets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cracked Magnets:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOhVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracked-magnets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I need to replace stator (already have a new one though)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBPms.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stator-highlights&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the fracture lines in the magnets, I think I need a new set (??). I expected that I might have loose magnets so I bought some JB Weld but this set looks like a total loss to me. I am not sure where to buy a set of magnets. Do I really need to replace this stator (given its current condition). What should I use to clean the stator and internal gears? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:03:25.170" Title="Should I replace this stator? (2007, Suzuki, DL1000)" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|generator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13316" CreationDate="2014-11-24T21:34:08.273" Score="2" ViewCount="1661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 E250.  The ignition switch actuator came apart into two pieces, so I can't operate the ignition switch with the key.  The steering wheel is tilting, so I think the pin that connects the upper actuator to the bottom actuator has come loose, as I did not hear or feel it breaking.  I unscrewed the ignition switch from the steering column and have been starting the van manually.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I indefinitely continue to manually operate the ignition switch without problems?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From my reading, I would have have to disassemble the whole column to fix the actuator.  Does anyone have an easier way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T23:30:58.313" Title="E250 ignition switch actuator broken. How to proceed?" Tags="|steering-wheel|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13315" CreationDate="2014-11-24T23:30:58.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm understanding your description here, I'd say your biggest issue is a safety issue with your steering column. You really need to get it together correctly so you will not have issues driving it. This is not only your safety you need to be worried about here, but the safety of your passengers and other motorists as well. To answer your questions, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Can I indefinitely continue to manually operate the ignition switch without problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, but you run the risk of your vehicle getting ripped off, I'd think. If you can do it manually, someone with a keen eye could easily figure this out through watching you or seeing something apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;From my reading, I would have have to disassemble the whole column to fix the actuator. Does anyone have an easier way to fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say your reading is correct. If what has happened which I think has happened, tearing it apart is going to be your only recourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T23:30:58.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13319" CreationDate="2014-11-24T23:52:38.990" Score="3" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 C1500 with 4.3L that has a motor (also a 4.3L) from another truck  installed. The truck is originally a 1993, but I'm not exactly sure what year the &quot;new&quot; motor is - it was pulled from a truck in a junkyard. Possibly a 1992. Anyways, how can I know what to gap the plugs to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the web, I've seen .06, 0.45, and even .035 as recommended. AutoZone's database showed 0.35 as the recommended gap, which is what the plugs (NGK) are pre-gap'ed to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a vin number somewhere on the block that can tell me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7609" LastEditorUserId="7609" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T14:16:09.257" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:16:09.257" Title="Gap a spark plug for another motor. How to be sure the correct gap for another model year motor?" Tags="|chevrolet|sparkplugs|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T00:04:27.007" Score="8" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;My alternator has been draining my battery in my Datsun 240z since I swapped the engine (VQ35). It takes around 4 days to drain the battery to the point I can't start it. It charges it fine when the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms are after driving the car letting all the electronics chill out for a minute the battery will drain 0.17A. If I then disconnect the alternator B+ wire it'll drop to about 0.02A at which point I can reconnect it and still only get 0.02A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried disconnecting all sorts of things but the only thing that helped was the alternator. This is my third alternator since the swap and they're pretty expensive. The first two I swapped because I was pretty sure they had bad diodes - the place I've mounted the alternator gets pretty hot &amp;amp; I've since built a shroud for it - they had slightly different symptoms thou, after reconnecting they'd still drain hard out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I have now has professionally rebuilt and tested and has done this since I put it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So have I done something wrong with my wiring? The obvious answer is I have a bad diode, but it seems odd that disconnecting and reconnecting the B+ fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I work around it? I'm almost considering having a switch on my B+ terminal to isolate it. I potentially could have a relay on it so it switches on/off when I start the car. My concern is the amount of amps it'd have to deal with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7610" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T10:08:07.253" Title="Alternator draining battery" Tags="|battery|nissan|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13317" CreationDate="2014-11-25T03:11:19.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060&quot; gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045&quot; gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035&quot; is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T03:11:19.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2014-11-25T05:02:23.940" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't go with that model for automotive use. It passes through the &quot;12v&quot; input directly to the motherboard and drives, meaning you'll be delivering ~14v with the engine running, and all sorts of ugly voltages during cranking, near-stall, etc. situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend this more expensive model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply?sc=8&amp;amp;category=981&quot;&gt;http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply?sc=8&amp;amp;category=981&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both, and even in my non-automotive application, I was much happier with the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T05:02:23.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13323" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:47:38.453" Score="2" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband's 1999 ML430 is on its last legs, and we're trying to sink as little money into it as possible and just get him a better car soon. However, this week, the parking brake alarm won't stop dinging, even when the parking brake is clearly released. Is there an easy DIY method to get it to recalibrate, or maybe even disable it? (Assuming that's legal! If not please let me know!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T17:31:14.163" Title="Parking brake alarm will not stop" Tags="|mercedes-benz|alarm|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13322" CreationDate="2014-11-25T15:49:27.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to ensure you have enough fluid in the brake master cylinder. A lot of vehicles have the sensor which detects the level of the fluid in on the same circuit as the parking brake. If you find this low, you may want to check the condition of your brake pads. If the brake pads are thin, there is more fluid residing in your calipers which would in turn give you less fluid in your reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T15:49:27.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T00:07:58.597" Score="1" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2006 Saab 93 Aero 2.0T automatic in October, 72000 miles. Everything seems perfect. But 2 weeks ago, the engine died while I was waiting for red light in the town centre, I just braked and waited and did nothing, then I felt the engine shake for 10 seconds, then it suddenly died. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the RAC to tow my car to my house (it was 8pm), they replaced a new battery for my car because the old one was broken, then I could start the car again. However, 2 hours later, I drove it to Tesco, it could not be started again when we want to leave. The RAC came again and could not find anything wrong. They towed my car to my house again. 2 minutes after they left, I just went to try and it could be started... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a full service at charnwood the day after. Everything was fine for the next week, until 4 days ago, the same thing happened when I was waiting for another red light. I called the RAC again, and 10 minutes after the call I tried to start it and I made it. Yesterday I went to another garage, and they said they could not figure what exactly wrong with my car. both times happened on rainy days. Could any one please tell me what I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7621" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T10:29:32.630" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:21:33.117" Title="Saab 93 Automatic died when waiting for traffic light and won't start again" Tags="|engine|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13339" CreationDate="2014-11-26T04:19:42.610" Score="4" ViewCount="4794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my oil, and I didn't have quite enough oil to top it off so I used HD-30 oil for my last .7 out of 4 quarts total. My car normally takes 5W-30 and after a little research I figured that it would be OK. Unfortunately, my car has a hard time starting up after sitting for a while now. I have to give it some gas to get the engine started up, which I'm concerned may be a sign that it wasn't a good idea to use this oil. On the other hand, I've read that it may just be the oil cleaning out the car, which I assume would be a good thing. It does spit out some black smoke from the exhaust when it has those difficult starts which I hope is residue being cleaned out. It is a '99 Saturn SC2 with 155,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:16:29.350" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T03:10:31.920" Title="What are the effects of using HD-30 in a car which takes 5W-30?" Tags="|maintenance|starting|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T08:57:00.397" Score="2" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 GMC Canyon. When you first start up and put the vehicle in gear the breaks will not release.if you accelerate then it will pop and release. This will happen the first two or three times you start but gets better as the vehicle warms up. I also noticed that it started happening when it got colder outside. this week it has warmed up to 73 and it had all but stopped. As soon as it got cold again it started back. I have ordered new cylinders for the rear and am planning to put them on this weekend. Not sure if it will help but it sounds like they are sticking out maybe. Anyone have any ideas before I try that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7624" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:03:33.737" Title="Rear drum brakes will not release" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13326" CreationDate="2014-11-26T09:40:58.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that your brake shoes are too close to the contact area. Does your handbrake click at least 4 times before it grips tight? If not, then you can adjust the shoes to allow more clicks on the handbrake. Metal contracts slightly when it's cold, so this may in fact be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that usually happens is that the mechanism within the brakes rusts. I've had great success spraying mine with brake cleaner, then WD40 and finally applying some grease to the moving parts (obviously not ON the actual contact areas). You may want to have a look at how the handbrake cable operates the rear brakes and make sure they release properly. Again, some brake cleaner, WD40 and grease will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T09:40:58.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4398" CreationDate="2014-11-26T13:02:05.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its the connecter that you unplug from the temp sensor. That connection is usually bad and can be fixed by directly putting the wires together or cleaning each connector. Had the same problem on 1998 grand prix gt 3800 series 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7626" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T13:02:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13338" CreationDate="2014-11-26T13:32:49.147" Score="3" ViewCount="7117" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is actually quite simple. Do you get any performance/sound/feel differences while driving with multiple air filters? For example, the stock filter that's built into most engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYfv5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and an external air filter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zrUw9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no (clear) disadvantage. Would it actually be of any good to use multiple filters. Would you actually get 'cleaner' air in your engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T19:26:43.480" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T11:00:41.547" Title="Are there any negative sides to using multiple air filters?" Tags="|performance|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2014-11-26T15:42:28.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use more than one air filter, you will make it harder for the engine to suck air into the intake manifold, meaning you will lose power. Less restrictive filters will give you more performance, but will allow more dirt into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use something like a cone filter (like in the second picture), you will have a change in sound, especially when you rev high. This is simply because the filter in the first picture is inside a box which muffles the sound a bit. You can get the same type of sound by drilling holes in the box, if you just want the sound and don't care for &quot;performance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T15:42:28.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13313" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:03:25.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The magnets on your stator actually unglued from the rotor. You should be able to remove them by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a known problem on dl1000, although i never had this problem with my k2 (yet). I don't know if they can be glued back, but you can buy a new rotor for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7628" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:03:25.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:04:51.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your engine and its parts, including the air filter, were put together the whole assembly would have been matched to perform to the optimum and then mapped to the engines ECU. Changing any parts for differant non-standard parts will always effect the performance of that particular system, simply by coming out-of-map. If you look at the filter in picture 1, the black rubber surround is to seal the air inlet past the filter. If you change the filter, and the replacement filter does not include an arrangement to maintain this sealing, the first thing to suffer will be the MAF sensor(s). This in turn will effect the O2 sensors and you will have codes for MAF faults, O2 sensors, and usually 'engine running weak' faults. To do the opposite and add 'more' air filters will produce the same faults but they will include 'engine running rich' codes. Finally, if the whole system is at optimum then there is really no need to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:04:51.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13326" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:24:49.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear brake adjusment on most vehicles includes a bi-metal, heat sensitive arrangement which prevents the brakes being adjusted once they become hot operationally. You need to make sure this arrangement on your vehicle is working properly. The way it works is that when the brakes are cold the brakes are able to adjust up. When the brakes are hot, the drum expands to a greater diameter which would allow the brakes to over adjust whilst hot. The bi-metal arrangement will prevent over adjustment whilst the brakes are hot. If the bi-metal is not working, the brakes will over adjust whilst hot and when the brake drums cool and contract they will bind onto the shoes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:24:49.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:30:05.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should always let your car warm up until it is atleast throwing heat ... your engine needs a chance to get the oil circulated through it.... and your transmission is also warming at the same time... many people that dont warm up there cars they complain about having issues with it....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:30:05.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:37:09.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;HDF-30 as I understand it is for for engines like that found in tractors or off-road plant. Whilst not saying your starting and smoke is directly attributable to the addition of this oil (25%) I would think that it quite probable. Use an engine flush treatment whilst replacing this mix with its correct oil to put your engine on an operational safe side, even if only to eliminate any doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:37:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13324" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:52:24.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have what in polite terms is known as an intermittant fault. Things like fuel pump or it relay, crankshaft sensor or some other component is failing to operate when warm, or even a loose connection somewhere. What I have had some success with on this type of fault is a data logger. (The RAC would have scanned your vehicle and found no faults.) A data logger can be left connected to your DLC plug and will record all of the engines operations on a 24hr cycle repeatedly. Should/when the cutting out occurs again, you can look at the data logger recording and usually find out why it did so. Launch CR recorder or OBD2 recorder are modestly priced and well worth while as data logging is not all that they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:52:24.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13318" CreationDate="2014-11-26T17:02:53.403" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the engine running, measure the voltage across the battery. If the voltage exceeds 14.5V then you have an alternator regulator fault. The regulator may be available on its own, but because of age you may have too have some kind of alternator rebuild. An outside chance is that an alternator from a later or differant vehicle may have the same fitting dimensions as your original and could be substituted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T17:02:53.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2014-11-26T19:25:50.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If driving with multiple filters, your vehicle will lose performance&lt;/strong&gt;. Your car will have a greater restriction in the intake system from having to pass through two separate elements. You would, however, have cleaner air coming into the system, but at a cost of the performance. You'll have to have more gas pedal to compensate which would cause other issues as has been explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket manufacturers do have what is called a &quot;cold air intake&quot;, which can replace the entire system from the air box and filter all the way to the throttle body. This would be used as a single filtration system (only one filter). Depending on the manufacturer, this type of filtration system can actually perform better in both flow and in how well it cleans the air (you'll have to do your homework to figure out which are which). This can provide you with a small performance boost (it's actually &lt;em&gt;freeing up&lt;/em&gt; power which was is already there, but that's another story), as well as better protect your engine from particulate matter. The mass air flow (MAF) sensor, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, and oxygen (O2) sensors will tell the computer how to adjust for these variations so as to give the engine the fuel it needs to stay at its target air/fuel ratio for optimal efficiency (given the fuel map in the computer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will tell you that the manufacturer will put together the optimum system and fuel mapping for your vehicle. I would tell you this is a complete fabrication. Unless you are talking about high performance vehicles, vehicle manufacturers use parts and settings which are a trade off between comfort, economy, and performance. They will give you parts which will work well for your vehicle, but are cheap to mass produce, and provide you the most comfort from your vehicle (whether it is noise or whatever). &lt;em&gt;There is always room for improvement over what comes stock&lt;/em&gt;. Fuel mapping is done conservatively on the rich side so as to prevent dreaded engine knocking or pinging. There's even room for improvement in high performance vehicles. The conservative nature of the fuel mapping is also done so you get better longevity out of your engine. I will say fuel mapping has improved over the past decade so as to provide better fuel economy, but as I said, there is still room for improvement over what comes stock in almost any situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T19:25:50.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2014-11-26T19:43:43.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with Allan that you should clean out the oil and put what is recommended into the system, I think the problem is not the oil. I think you might have a leaking injector causing your hard start/black smoke on start-up issue. This is the reason I asked about the color of the smoke, as it makes a huge difference in the diagnosis. If you run some decent fuel additive through you tank (such as Seafoam, Royal Purple, or BG-44k), I think you'll see a marked improvement in how it starts. You may also try cleaning your MAF and throttle body and check to ensure the air filter is good. I'd need to know when the last time the O2 sensors and spark plugs were changed to tell you if you might need to replace those as well, but in most cars, the recommended change interval is around 100k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T19:43:43.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T20:40:31.183" Score="4" ViewCount="2572" Body="&lt;p&gt;my volvo s40 2005 will not start and has message key error any idea what may be causing this problem . I have fitted a new battery and have changed the battery in the key fob but no change &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7630" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T12:34:31.880" Title="volvo s40 2005 key error message" Tags="|volvo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13344" CreationDate="2014-11-26T21:57:51.137" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has bought a BMW 530i from 2004, manufactured in Germany. The original navigation system installation disk is broken. I wounder if it can be downloaded, burnt to a cd/dvd and installed into the car. He lives in Lebanon, middle east, so the maps has to be for that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's other navigation software, provided by a third party that can work on his car, it's alright. And if the firmware has to be upgraded for the CD to work, it's fine but please provide a link for the new firmware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7632" LastEditorUserId="7632" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T22:03:08.330" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T11:11:17.653" Title="BMW 530i Navigation software" Tags="|bmw|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13340" CreationDate="2014-11-27T09:17:55.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your key(s) can only be programmed using the appropriaten Volvo compatable diagnostic equipment. Primarily as an anti-theft of the vehicle proceedure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T09:17:55.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13341" CreationDate="2014-11-27T09:22:46.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A BMW service centre will be able to connect and download any software required via its internet access to BMW Germany. Must be a genuine &lt;strong&gt;BMW facility&lt;/strong&gt; though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T09:22:46.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-27T10:51:50.843" Score="4" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a maximum age of tyre you'd consider fitting to a vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying 4 new tyres, and they've been reduced (I believe) due to the DOT date being in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any problems fitting (potentially) nearly 3 year old tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7637" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T18:06:01.837" Title="Fitting age of tyres?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13351" CreationDate="2014-11-27T12:37:26.457" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cat-C VW Polo MK4 that has obviously had some front end damage. The catch that holds the bonnet down is very loose. I'm talking about the part that's actually attached to the bonnet, not the static part that it latches on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This catch should be held on with three bolts, mine is held on with two very ill-fitting (non-matching) bolts. I'm pretty sure the bonnet itself is new, but this catch is probably the original and doesn't have its original bolts. The whole unit nearly fell off the bonnet today, I need to bolt it on properly. I'm happy with the level of work required, it's only 3 bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bolts do I need to buy? I don't mine original VW parts or a third-party replacement part, in fact I'm expecting it to be a standard size bolt. I'm having trouble researching this because most things I read on the internet relate to the lower part of the latch unit and hoping someone here might know what I need!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7639" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T13:20:29.930" Title="Bonnet latch bolts for VW Polo MK4" Tags="|vw|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13346" CreationDate="2014-11-27T13:05:35.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not have any issues with these tires when you are comparing the &quot;birth date&quot; of the tire. There are two reasons I say this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, two plus years really isn't that old. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=138&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TireRack.com&lt;/a&gt; has this on their website about it - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our experience has been that when properly stored and cared for, most street tires have a useful life in service of between six to ten years. And while part of that time is spent as the tire travels from the manufacturing plant to the manufacturer's distribution center, to the retailer and to you, the remainder is the time it spends on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, should a place selling tires sell known bad product (in this case, tires which you think might be too old), they are liable for those tires. If they put tires on your car which they know have a chance of going bad shortly, you could easily come back to them and sue them for big money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire dealer is trying to get rid of older stock, this is the way I'd do it to. Get rid of the tire before it gets too old to sell. It will make them more money than throwing them away when they &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; get too old (being worth something is better than being worth nothing). A lot of tires have about a 35-40k mile life span on them. If you are running around 12k miles in a year, you'll wear these tires out prior to them being &lt;em&gt;too old&lt;/em&gt;. My suggestion to you is, if the tires fit your car, you can afford them, and you need them, then buy them. Sounds like a win-win for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T13:05:35.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13348" CreationDate="2014-11-27T13:20:29.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I cannot find any reference to them anywhere, my best suggestion to you is to go to the VW parts counter and ask them. They should have a computer which will show pictures of your vehicle with the parts exploded to reveal detail. You should be able to zoom in on the area you are looking at (the hood latch loop area) and find the bolt. Since buying parts this way is very expensive, you can do one of four things as I see it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy the part at the dealership if money is not an issue. I would expect to pay about 3-4x what you could find it for on the economy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy one of the bolts, then go down to your local hardware store and match this bolt to find the other two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the part number from the VW parts counter and find it online. This would be a much cheaper option than #1 if you are looking for genuine VAG parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If available, go to a junk yard (wrecking/parts/bone yard ... whatever you like to call it ...) and find a car just like yours (or something near to it) and pull the bolts. You can usually get out of a junk yard very cheaply if you are just looking for nuts/bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this gives you some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T13:20:29.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13346" CreationDate="2014-11-27T18:06:01.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre distributors and fitting shops in the UK run thier stock on a 'Just in time' basis. This means that when the tyre comes to be fitted you will rarely find them more than around 2 months old since manufacture. The UK recommendation is to replace tyres at no more than six years for an on the road tyre and ten years for a spare. This is rarely appreciated by vehicle owners on the basis of cost alone. Drivers will shrug thier shoulders when filling the fuel tank for £100, but burst into tears on the price of a tyre at £75. Poor tyres will use up to 20% of fuel put in the tank, as against a usual 15%. It is just common sense, even on a cost basis let alone safety, to have good quality tyres. Buy the best tyres of a premium brand for your vehicle un-fettered by the baggage of them being 'old'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T18:06:01.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-27T22:00:30.337" Score="5" ViewCount="3599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't my 2010 focus allow me gun it when it starts slipping in snow? It makes it impossible to get out of even a tiny bit of snow. My civic never got stuck because I could always just gun it, but my focus never gets above 2k rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7643" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:10:33.813" Title="Ford Focus won't rev high when slipping on snow" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13353" CreationDate="2014-11-27T23:23:19.177" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with the vehicle, from what you've described. It sounds like it's doing exactly what it's supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you understand how to get out of a slide (or snow), which admittedly isn't particularly uncommon. &quot;Gunning it&quot; won't help, because your wheels are more likely to spin, which just tends to dig you deeper into the snow. Rather, your Focus is forcing upon you good habits, by not risking a red-line and by keeping your revs low. Traction control is probably what's holding it back, since it doesn't want you to spin, but I would not suggest switching that off until you're comfortable escaping snow &lt;em&gt;with it on&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get out of snow, you want to be careful of torque. You want RPMs low, and you want as little wheel spin as possible. It's good to &quot;shift&quot; up into higher gears, like D1 or D2, or if you have a manual override, head to second or third gear. Those will reduce spin and push you out more comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've gotten out of snow in the past with brute force (and I'm not disputing that it's possible), it's been mostly luck. You can also sometimes dig away enough snow that you hit the ground, which is where you actually get traction (assuming it's not lined with ice). But that won't apply in deeper snow or where there is ice, so I wouldn't suggest making a habit of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastEditorUserId="6381" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T00:07:29.850" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T00:07:29.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13353" CreationDate="2014-11-27T23:43:03.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible that the traction control is limiting the engine power. The control module is monitoring the wheel rpm, vehicle movement and the engine rpm. If it detects wheel speed beyond the set parameters it slows the engine speed until traction is achieved. You may see a flashing light on the dash. Typically it is a triangle with an &quot;S&quot; shaped symbol. I am not sure about all the Focus models but most  traction control can bedisabled by pressing the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T23:43:03.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T11:48:17.937" Score="3" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I originally thought I wasn't getting the bite-point right on our new (2nd-hand 2005) Mazda 3, but after paying more attention it's clear that when up-shifting, the engine revs often blip up about 1000 &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; I've totally released the clutch pedal, for a second or so, before dropping back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed this meant the clutch was slipping and maybe needed replacing but our mechanic says it's fine, and this is normal on that car. I can't understand how this can happen - once the gear is engaged how can the revs increase so much for a short time &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; it being slip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7646" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T12:18:30.967" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T04:36:41.310" Title="Mazda 3 over-revs after releasing the clutch pedal on up-shifts, but mechanic says clutch is fine" Tags="|clutch|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13357" CreationDate="2014-11-28T12:17:12.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/oIui7cgK3UI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video of an '04 Mazda 3&lt;/a&gt; which shows a slipping clutch. The one in the video has really bad slippage. I doubt yours is there yet, but wanted to show you how you can test yours. Basically if, while from around 10-15mph, you can put it into 3rd or 4th and romp on the gas and your rpms go up without the car going faster, your clutch is slipping and is on its way out. If the engine bogs and you slowly increase speed, your clutch is probably doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would go to another mechanic and get a second opinion. There is no way in my mind a standard shift transmission would do this without there being an issue with the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T12:17:12.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11590" CreationDate="2014-11-28T13:23:00.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If they were that great, they would come standard in your car. Vehicle manufacturers are under tremendous pressure to improve fuel economy, so every relatively cheap modification or part they can use will definitely be used. If they didn't use something, it's either because they're too expensive or they don't really perform as well as stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T13:23:00.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T13:25:28.507" Score="1" ViewCount="2822" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I was doing 30 mph on a downhill road in my Renault Clio 1.2, and went to turn right, but my brakes did not work, and so I just turned into the corner and went straight into and up a 3-inch curb, which stopped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now every time I turn, the front wheels rub on the car. My right side wheel is bent in at the top. The left side wheel looks fine, but slighty rubs when I turn. What do you think will need to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7650" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T20:21:08.797" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T12:38:08.567" Title="Ran over a curb at speed; wheel is bent and rubs against wheelwell on turns" Tags="|suspension|wheels|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13364" CreationDate="2014-11-28T13:25:35.920" Score="4" ViewCount="6577" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vlGhf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Volvo V60 daytime running light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That ^ is a 2010 Volvo V60, UK, with one daytime running light that doesn't work. (The one on the other side is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to replace the bulb rather than drive to the Volvo dealer (which isn't conveniently located) and have them do it. Also I'm thinking it'll be cheaper to do it myself, and replacing bulbs is easy, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked in the manual and it doesn't say anything at all about this light. So I don't know what bulb type to get or how to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked online (Google etc) and I'm just not finding anything. Also I've not found anything on Volvo's website or in their online version of the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if this is a blown bulb then what bulb type do I need? Or do I need a whole new sealed unit?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;alternatively, might the problem be a fuse or a relay and if so which one? (again I can't find this in the manual).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what are instructions for accessing the bulb to replace it? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7649" LastEditorUserId="7649" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T15:48:25.287" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:09:34.107" Title="Volvo V60 Daytime Running Light - what is the bulb type? Instructions to replace bulb? Or what relay/fuse to replace?" Tags="|volvo|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2014-11-28T13:46:59.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem this morning with my 2007 s40 2.0D. The car has 125,000 miles on the clock and up until now has been very reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on a short journey this morning parked the car as normal and locked it with the key fob. On my return the car unlocked with the key fob, but when I tried to start the engine the radio &amp;amp; dash board operated as usual however when I turned the key to position 3 the engine would not turn over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the key was turned there was no sign that anything was happening, no clicks from the starter motor or audible noise from the fuel pump etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to leave the car there and went home to check the web to see it this had happened to anybody else, and I stumbled on this site, I decided to try this remedy as I had nothing to lose, and to my surprise it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I held the key in position 3, then hit the end of the key firmly with a screwdriver handle, and the car started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it, it worked for me!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7652" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T13:46:59.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13362" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:36:55.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Volvo V60 does not have bulbs, but is illuminated by LED strips. They are moulded into the assembly. Because of the recent manufacture of your vehicle the after market will not yet have a pattern part for it. You will need to visit a Volvo dealer for a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:36:55.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13361" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:47:01.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have a serious brake fault you will need to have the vehicle lifted to a garage for repair. A complete brake inspection and overhaul would be required, especially as you do not have a complete history of the vehicle having recently acquired it. Next step will be replacement of any bent wheels and possibly damaged tyres. This vehicle will also need an inspection of steering and suspension systems, together with a general check over for any other damage. The moral of this story is to have any vehicle you are concerned with, and have no way of knowing its true history, checked out by a competent garage/mechanic before trusting in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:47:01.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13362" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:58:28.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you go off to the Stealership to have the bulb replaced, you may want to see if the bulb has lost connectivity at the plug. Since these are LED bulbs, they don't go bad very often or very fast. I believe you should be able to access the plug by removing the main headlight in your car. While &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2012_Volvo_S60_T5_2.5L_5_Cyl._Turbo/lights/daylight_running&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; shows you how to remove the main headlight, it's a little cheesy. You shouldn't have to remove the wire connectors to the headlight to get to the DRL. As far as the DRL, try unplugging/plugging it a few times to see if this rejuvenates the connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I doubt the problem is a fuse, since normally when you have two bulbs like this (as you do), both bulbs run off the same fuse/relay. Since one is working, you can rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:58:28.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13353" CreationDate="2014-11-28T18:05:43.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford have from time to time have controlled engine revs in instances like you describe. Doing so protects the CVT transmission from damage. For a while they also controlled the engine speed from idle whilst stationary, to a max of around 2500-3000rpm, across thier automatics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T18:05:43.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13370" CreationDate="2014-11-28T18:31:45.857" Score="7" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 125k mile 2005 Toyota Camry in good condition and with a good service history about 5 months ago. It was due for its second oil change since we've owned it so my wife took it in to a nearby Meineke Car Care Center. After the car was in the garage for 10-15 minutes, a technician told my wife we had an oil leak. He took her back to see it and she saw oil all over. It was splattered on the underside of the car hood, on top of the manifold, and basically everywhere else. The oil was not dirty or grimy. He explained that there was a leak in the valve cover gasket. They wanted to charge $500 to fix the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We declined the repair and took it to the place we bought it. He told my wife that the leak was so bad, she would likely not make it home without ending up on the side of the road. The oil was seeping from the side of the valve cover. When he would wipe it off, more would immediately flow out, almost like wiping blood from an open wound. He expressed his opinion on what happened and repaired the leak for $40. He also showed me the valve cover gasket. It was split cleanly in half. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the repair, I've driven 500+ miles and have not lost any oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've intentionally left out his opinion and have only included absolute facts because I want to hear unbiased, third-party thoughts on what may have happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know very little about automotives, but I had no reason to think anything was wrong with my car prior to taking it to Mechanic. The oil light was not on, there was no obvious indication of oil under the car where we park, and there was no smell of burning oil. In fact, just a few days prior to taking it to the shop, we had driven the car 300 miles in one day with no indications of trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that I had a leak before taking it to Meineke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it sound like may have happened at the Meineke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7656" LastEditorUserId="7656" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T19:03:41.503" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T15:09:54.403" Title="Did the mechanic damage our car?" Tags="|toyota|oil-change|oil-leak|camry|gasket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2014-11-28T21:33:15.737" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Meineke was taking you for a ride (pun intended). Here is my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it was leaking as bad as they say (or showed you) it was, you wouldn't have had any oil in your vehicle when you got to their shop. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the car was having the massive oil leaks all over the engine compartment as they showed you, there would have been &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;VOLUMES&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of smoke from it as you were driving the car. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While women are just as capable as men, many of those who work in such shops don't see it that way. They will see a female come in and tell all kinds of stories in hopes that they will bite and pay for a repair they don't need, or in this case, possibly causing an issue which will need to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how easily they could have done something to your car in under 15 minutes, but I wouldn't put it past an unscrupulous shop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did the right thing (obviously) by taking it to the place where you bought it from. It sounds like they treated you correctly and got your car back on the road for a minimal amount of funds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, it would thus be my &lt;em&gt;word of mouth advertising&lt;/em&gt; to tell all of your friends not to frequent said Meineke shop. Do I think all Meineke shops are like this? By no means. It seems this one sure has taken the low road, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T01:49:55.050" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T01:49:55.050" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2014-11-29T02:51:38.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this same problem with my suburban..put a starter button in it,replaced the starter..every time I took it to the shop the mechanic told me twice I had a stripped battery cable bolt, the one for accecories I asked him both times to replace it and both times he told me this would not cause the problems I was having with the truck...finally after having everything replaced that I could and the truck sitting for two weeks I decided to buy the damn battery cable bolts and replace them..guess what the damn thing started right up and has run for the past month with absolutely no problem..try for ten dollars changing the battery bolts in your suburban if one is stripped this will cause your truck not to start and will also burn up starters when it does start..if stripped they will cause not full battery getting to the starter and it having to work harder to start the truck..a good place to start..like I said it took fits sometimes it would start and other times no way..i kept telling everyone it was like I had a short in it..I DID THE BATTERY CABLE BOLTS..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7658" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T02:51:38.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T05:51:28.387" Score="1" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (2yrs old) needs a new clutch after 45km and Suzuki won't cover it under waranty. I'm no mechanic but the car has not been driven hard and has mainly had longer highway journeys never. Is Suzuki being fair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suzuki have inspected the clutch and claim that the clutch has premature wear caused by shock clutch release. The housing broke away from the centre hub which resulted in the spring jumping out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is driven by a lady driver and not driven hard. For the the the past few service intervals we have raised that twas battling to get it into 2nd/3rd gear. Despite it being documented on the service request and discussed at length this was not resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please could you assist - I'm fair and if at fault then ok with having paid for a new clutch. But can't get the fact to add up..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7661" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T04:13:00.370" Title="Suzuki Swift Sport 2012" Tags="|clutch|suzuki|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T06:22:08.390" Score="2" ViewCount="2228" Body="&lt;p&gt;1993 Toyota Pickup Odometer/Speedometer has stopped working. I have a 1993 Toyota 4 cylinder 22R, manual 5 speed trans., no air, 2x4, and the speedometer and odometer have given up the ghost.  I would like to know how to fix it.  Is there just a loose cable? I have looked under the hood and can't make heads or tails of anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7662" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T10:35:19.640" Title="1993 Toyota Pickup Odometer/Speedometer has stopped working" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13374" CreationDate="2014-11-29T10:35:19.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is old enough to be a cable driven speedo affair. The set-up would be a gearbox drive gear, cable assembly, speedo head assembly. Any of these could fail/wear out and no longer operate the speedo/odometer internals. The first check is to disconnect the speedo cable at the speedo and see if it is rotating when the vehicle is driven. If it is rotating then the speedo head is suspect; if not the cable or drive gear is suspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T10:35:19.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13373" CreationDate="2014-11-29T10:47:25.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Susuki Swift is a budget built volume car. The type of clutch fitted would reflect this in the quality of its build. Something like 45km (or 35000 miles) for this clutch is not a bad mileage and reflects a reasonable use and service life. When driving on the motor way, every increase and decrease in speed even whilst staying in the same gear is felt as a loading through the driven plate and diaphragm plate. This normal wear and tear would probably have caused this failure. Manufacturers do not readily accept items like clutches, brakes and tyres under warranty as thier use is at the discretion of the driver, and are vulnerable to poor driving or mis-use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T10:47:25.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2014-11-29T11:09:49.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part of your question mentioning doing a trip before the 'oil leak' coming to anyone's attention may be important. Did you check and top up the oil before the trip, or even during the trip? The point of this is: Was the oil filler cap secure or secured properly if the oil was topped up?, if not you will get oil blowing around under the hood. The second part of the matter is, was the $500 strictly and only for the gasket change, or was it a bill for other work &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a cam cover gasket replacement? Motor vehicles generate a surprizing amount of emotion in thier owners, with many just not believing that thier vehicle has a fault at all. This usually means the technician is portrayed as a villian in the piece, but usually, on critical evaluation, is merely doing his job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T11:09:49.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T14:21:56.037" Score="1" ViewCount="8780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting loss of power when idling and spluttering and the OBD is telling me the engine is running rich. I want to try cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor, but... I'm no mechanic and I'm just not able to find the thing in my Peugeot 207. It's a 2008 model, 1.6 petrol engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=where%20is%20the%20maf%20sensor%20on%20a%20peugeot%20207%202008&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=955&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=kdF5VJyTM8utafXkgpgL&amp;amp;ved=0CCsQ7Ak#facrc=_&amp;amp;imgdii=_&amp;amp;imgrc=Y7OIWzxgJXvz8M%253A%3BSBzgOrg2EpQDhM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.ytimg.com%252Fvi%252FAScWSqBPnbI%252Fhqdefault.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.youtube.com%252Fwatch%253Fv%253DAScWSqBPnbI%3B480%3B360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Googled it&lt;/a&gt; and watched various &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AScWSqBPnbI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;videos&lt;/a&gt; and have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bavariandominator.co.uk/pages/peugeot_maf_sensors_123427.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an image&lt;/a&gt; of what the part looks like, but still can't seem to locate it when looking into the engine bay from above. Can anyone help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7665" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T13:41:27.913" Title="Where is the MAF Sensor on a Peugeot 207?" Tags="|peugeot|maf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13373" CreationDate="2014-11-29T16:43:12.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukiauto.com/warranty.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, you can see that Suzuki has a 7 year, 100k mile power train warranty if you reside here in the States (this may be world wide, but I don't know for sure). The last time I checked, the clutch is part of the drive train. Unless they have it in writing where it states the clutch is not part of the power train warranty, it should be covered. If you have taken it to a Suzuki dealership and they refuse to fix this for you, ask them to show you in writing where this part is not covered. If they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; show you, then I'd say you are out of luck (not sure if they consider this a &lt;em&gt;wear item&lt;/em&gt; or not). If they cannot show you in writing, you might try and take it to a different Suzuki dealership, though I would bet they are fairly sparse. You are not required to utilize the dealership you bought the car at for warranty work. If a different dealership (or authorized repair facility) is not available to you or they decline to do the work as well, you will need to appeal this to corporate Suzuki for resolution (if there is nothing in writing stating about the clutch). Mind you, if corporate Suzuki says &quot;no&quot;, again, you are probably out of luck unless you are willing to take them to court. If a company is willing to put a warranty on their product, they should be willing to back it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking further at the page mentioned above is a link to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukiauto.com/Arbitration.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;arbitration page&lt;/a&gt;. This may be your legal recourse to getting your clutch fixed at Suzuki expense. It does say on there that the decision which is provided by through arbitration is binding on Suzuki, but not upon the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T17:00:06.010" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T17:00:06.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2014-11-29T18:31:53.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Peugeot 207 petrols have a little bit of a reputation for clogging up on the throttle body. Using a tin of throttle body cleaner and a common bath room tooth brush, remove the hose to the throttle body. Spray in and around the throttle and clean off any 'dirt' with the tooth brush. Hold the throttle blade open and clean as much as possible in and around it. Give it all a good spray. Re-assemble the hose to the throttle body and start the engine. You may have to spin the engine a little to clear the throttle body cleaner fluid from the system. You should now notice a real differance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T18:31:53.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T20:52:52.973" Score="4" ViewCount="3425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-FatMax-8A-Battery-Charger/38243757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stanley FATMAX RE-CHAGEiT 8AMP&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Automatic Battery Charger &amp;amp; Maintainer&lt;/em&gt; from Walmart for 29,97 USD&lt;/a&gt;, which appears to have three states of charging the battery -- detecting the voltage, rapid charging at supposedly 8A with the yellow LED, and then maintaining the charge at supposedly 2A with the green LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tested the voltage with the in-car 12V socket tester in my 2008 Jetta, which did read between around 13.7 and 14.2V when the car was running, but it seems to be only testing around 12.5V when the charger is attempting to charge the battery now (it started with mid 13V when I just got the charger, but after several days of use, never seems to get above 12.7V anymore, even if I turn it off, discharge the battery for a while, then turn it back on).  This appears to be the case both when the rapid charge is supposed to be taking place, as well as when the maintenance charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?  Would &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13172/how-much-water-can-be-safely-added-to-a-battery/13279#13279&quot;&gt;a sulphated old battery (which only appears to work fine when the overnight weather doesn't get too close to freezing)&lt;/a&gt; accept any charge to improve its condition when the charger must only be supplying something like 13,0V at most?  Should I get a different charger, one that would supply closer to the gassing voltage of maybe 14,5V?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T04:13:22.907" Title="would a sulfated discharged 12V battery charge at 12.5V?" Tags="|battery|power|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13444" CreationDate="2014-11-29T22:51:55.457" Score="0" ViewCount="29206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Nissan Rogue with the in-dash entertainment system (not the new connect system). Since I updated my iPhone to iOS 8.1, the USB audio hasn't connected reliably. When I first updated to 8.1.1, it worked for one afternoon, but then it went back to either not connecting at all or connecting for about a second before showing an error on the car screen and disconnecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it's possible to fix this via a firmware update? Can you even update the car audio firmware on an old Nissan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7667" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T20:37:59.220" Title="2013 Nissan Rogue USB audio not working with iPhone 6 with iOS 8.1.1" Tags="|nissan|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13384" CreationDate="2014-11-29T23:55:22.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a normal battery should be around 13.1vdc fully charged, I wouldn't consider 12.5vdc too much to worry about. If you are having issues where the starter is dragging or just plain not getting the car started, then I'd worry about it. I doubt your battery is sulfated. If it is having problems starting your vehicle, then get a new battery, not a new charger. The charger you have will work just fine. Since your charging system (in the car) seems to be working fine, I don't think you'll have any issues there, either. Also, how do you know the charger is only producing the 13vdc you are suggesting? This seems more like a guess on your part. Remember, the lower amperage is where you should be charging your battery at anyway ... charging too fast is bad for your battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T02:54:34.077" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T02:54:34.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13389" CreationDate="2014-11-30T02:28:27.710" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Subaru Liberty(/Legacy) that is due for a timing belt change. It is the single overhead cam 2.2l engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this engine interferrance ? If the timing belt breaks, will the pistons destroy the valves, or will the engine just stop with just the timing belt to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7669" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T02:52:36.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T10:52:00.923" Title="Is a 92 Subaru Liberty Engine An Interferrance Motor?" Tags="|subaru|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13388" CreationDate="2014-11-30T10:52:00.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicles engine is listed as a 'free-wheeler'. This means that under normal circumstanaces, if the timing belt breaks the pistons and valves will not strike each other. Even so you would need to know why the belt broke and if there is any other damage to the engine which would have caused a breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T10:52:00.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3937" CreationDate="2014-11-30T21:35:04.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work as a mechanic many years ago and I find that the manual is easier over the automatic. Automatic transmissions have many more parts than the manual transmission does. I know this is late but it may help others who are asking this same question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7675" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T21:35:04.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5046" CreationDate="2014-12-01T05:39:18.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock tuning of the carburetor is meant to and should work in almost any weather conditions. There's obviously a change in the temperature and the humidity while its raining. And its because of the improper tuning AFR (air to fuel ratio) of the carb, it causes a &quot;missing&quot; (a vernacular term we have in India) and eventually your scooter going of while its raining. When its humid, lots cold/humid air would enter your engine chamber while the existing fuel input is less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100425211040AAWXD12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link to read about lean fuel mixture. This is not really a case of lean fuel mixture but you might get the basic idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how to resolve this problem, take it to any local mechanic and tell them your problem. Tell then that the bike goes of in the rain and that you need to adjust the carb or slightly raise the &quot;slow-speed&quot;.  10 mins of work and you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride Safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T05:39:18.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3937" CreationDate="2014-12-01T07:25:03.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put things into perspective: The Subaru workshop manual tells you how to completely disassemble the engine, overhaul it and put it back together. But the section on the transmission recommends that you &quot;leave it to the pro's&quot;. I know you don't have a Subaru, but Subaru engines are more complex than the Supra engine, and they think it's easier for a non-specialist to take apart and reassemble and entire engine than to rebuild a transmission. I don't mean &quot;easier&quot; as in &quot;less time&quot;, I mean easier as in: less special tools and skill required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T07:25:03.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T10:13:52.540" Score="2" ViewCount="6671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting codes P2196 (A/F sensor stuck rich) and P2270 (O2 sensor stuck lean) and symptoms of hesitancy whilst idling (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Cleaning_Dirty_Cam_Covers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it into the garage and they've identified that the &quot;cam cover&quot; has at one time been removed and simply glued back into place, as a result it isn't attached properly and is causing a lot of air to be sucked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're quoting over £300 for the repair and labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched the web for &quot;cam covers&quot; (that's what I think the garage called it) and I can't really find anything that matches exactly. Is it possible it's called something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, easy one to do myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2008 model Peugeot 207 1.6L petrol. Non-VTi version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Cleaning_Dirty_Cam_Covers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from Mobil Oil&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the very top of the cylinder head is a sort of oblong dome secured&#xA;  to the cylinder head by a significant number of small bolts or screws.&#xA;  If your engine is an inline-4 or inline-6, there will be one dome. If&#xA;  the engine is a vee-configuration, such as a V-6 or V-8, there will be&#xA;  two of these domes, or one capping each cylinder bank. This component&#xA;  can be made of stamped steel, cast aluminum, or plastic, and it goes&#xA;  by many names: cam cover, rocker cover, rocker-arm cover, rocker box,&#xA;  and valve cover. These names are often used interchangeably, but each&#xA;  name actually refers to a specific engine type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;strong&gt;“Cam covers” are found on overhead-cam engines, because the&#xA;  cover is actually covering the cam shaft and its cam lobes.&lt;/strong&gt; “Rocker&#xA;  arm cover” refers to an overhead valve pushrod engine such as the new&#xA;  Chrysler Hemi or the venerable Chevrolet small-block V-8. In these&#xA;  engines, the camshaft is deep in the block but the rocker arms, set in&#xA;  motion by the pushrods, sit on top of the cylinder head and lift the&#xA;  valves. From now on, we’ll refer to these domes as cam/rocker covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see elsewhere it's less than £100 to buy a new one, and the job doesn't appear to be too tricky to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more background in response to comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the garage if they meant the cam cover or the cylinder head cover and they said it was the same thing. They said the cam cover appears to have been removed at one point in the past and glued back down. That was news to me. All I can think of is it may be related to some auxiliary belt problem a while ago. A number of garages took a look at it and all said the engine was at fault, but I couldn't believe this as it had only done 40K miles at this point. It's possible one of those garages removed the cover and didn't put it back on properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've uploaded an image of the part I think is at play. If I understand what they are saying it basically means this is just open at the seal and is letting air directly in. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/keWF8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;peugeot cam cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All very strange to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7665" LastEditorUserId="7665" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T20:56:00.770" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T20:56:00.770" Title="Peugeot 207 &quot;Cam Cover&quot; Letting in Air" Tags="|engine|peugeot|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13398" CreationDate="2014-12-01T11:01:48.140" Score="3" ViewCount="4774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually service my Mitsubishi L200 Sportero 4x4 5FWD Diesel at Mechanic A, but I had not for several months. Needing a service, I tried another mechanic, Mechanic B, who did the usual 'tune-up'. Two weeks after that, while driving, the power-steering stopped working. Upon investigation, I realized that all of the belts (alternator, power steering, A/C) were either destroyed or twisted and that the crankshaft bolt (the bolt that holds all of the pulleys at the front of the engine) was missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could cause this bolt to come loose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Mechanic A at fault, or Mechanic B? Mechanic A says they use 'lock-tight' and air tools to tighten bolts, and if it were only slightly loose, it would come off completely in a week or two, not last for the several months it did since their last service. Mechanic A also surmised that Mechanic B, while trying to do other stuff in the engine, might move the engine around in the engine bay somehow and loosen the bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know who to believe. What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 01: &lt;strong&gt;The bolt is not missing - the head of the bolt broke off, leaving the rest of it inside.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7677" LastEditorUserId="7677" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T12:05:38.357" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T12:11:28.560" Title="Loose crankshaft bolt. Cause?" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2014-12-01T12:49:44.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure what happened AT the shop, but that much oil would have caused a very strong oil smell coming out of the air ducts. Probably lots of smoke from the oil on the manifold too. Which leads me to the conclusion that whatever happened, happened at the workshop. I can't think of a hypothetical way in which one can cause the gasket to break by doing something covertly in 10 minutes. I could probably make your head gasket blow by draining your radiator and letting the car run for 10-15 minutes, but that's a totally different scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T12:49:44.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13395" CreationDate="2014-12-01T13:01:47.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it would be either mechanics fault, mainly because a crankshaft bolt is not something which is attended to during normal maintenance, either in checking or removal. It sounds to me like the bolt may have come lose on it's own (which does NOT happen very often), backed out, and allowed the main hub pulley to become displaced somewhat destroying the belts. Diesel engines do have a lot of vibration which could allow the bolt to become lose. This type of bolt &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have some thread locker on it. Since the bolt is now missing, it would be hard to tell if there was any on it in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this is not something which should or would be messed with in the first place. It sounds to me like it's just one of those &quot;things&quot; which can neither be explained or blamed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T12:11:28.560" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T12:11:28.560" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2014-12-01T13:41:27.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part has to be between the air cleaner and the throttle body, find a part that is connected with rubber hoses and has a wire connected to it. You might need to remove the air filter box to see the MAF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T13:41:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13394" CreationDate="2014-12-01T16:12:08.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not just the cover that would need to be replaced. Normally they also have gaskets or rubber seals around them to stop any dirt getting into the engine itself or escaping from the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be you are being quoted for a cam cover, seal kit, oil and oil filter + labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to ask for is a breakdown of what the costs are from the mechanics so you can compare the costs effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T16:12:08.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13394" CreationDate="2014-12-01T16:12:38.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a cam cover gasket is a straight forward job to do. Its simply removing the securing set screws, removing the cover(s), cleaning any residue debris from covers and cylinder header, fitting the gasket to the cover(s), and replacing the cover/gasket/screws, tighten evenly and finally check for leaks. If you do not have a compatable scanner for your vehicle the vehicle will need to be driven for a drive cycle to re-set the engine ECU CEL. £300 pounds seems quite a lot of money for this gasket change, but you have to consider the cost for diagnosis and an ECU re-set, plus 20% tax in the UK. It all becomes a bit more reasonable, especially if there is some other item requiring attention. After all the cover(s) had been removed previously - Why? Is the camshaft front seal servicable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T16:12:38.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T16:43:08.580" Score="0" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not very good at describing car problems, but i'll try my best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Jetta is an automatic. Here recently, while I drive, the engine light comes on. My car revs very high, even though i am not going fast and/or &quot;flooring&quot; the gas pedal. It never falls below 2nd gear anymore. Also, my engine starts to get warm, just judging by the temp gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do i need to have my clutch replaced, or is it something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that wasn't too confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7679" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T23:23:34.353" Title="Do i need a clutch replacement for my 2003 vw jetta?" Tags="|clutch|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13402" CreationDate="2014-12-01T18:23:00.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could very well need the &quot;clutches&quot; in your transmission replaced, but automatic transmissions do not have a &quot;clutch&quot; per se. They utilize a torque convertor to get power from the engine to the transmission. What this sounds like is your transmission is slipping due to bad internal clutches or even a lack of or burnt transmission fluid. This definitely sounds like something you need to take to the tranny shop for diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T18:23:00.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T07:17:23.390" Score="2" ViewCount="52229" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of months ago I noticed some problems starting with the clutch; the pedal became extremely spongy and the biting point was right down at the bottom, expecially on cold starts first thing in the morning. As the car warms up, the biting point seems to go back to its normal position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long journey I was slowing down to go through a toll and the clutch was completely unresponsive; I couldn't get it out of gear without stalling and couldn't get it back into gear when it was running - thus I had to be recovered and taken home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was informed that it could be the master or slave cylinder, so I've had a new master cylinder fitted, and the clutch has been bled, which seemed to work for a short while, however after another long journey, the same thing happened. This time I was lucky enough to keep it in gear long enough to get myself home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told it's unlikely to be the slave cylinder since I would notice the brake/clutch fluid reservior level dropping, which it isn't (I'm also desperately hoping it's not the slave cylinder because that's a lot of money to sort out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading some articles on the internet I've found that a lot of people have had problems bleeding the clutch on Astras so I'm wondering if there are any techniques to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car details&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Vauxhall Astra H SRi&#xA;  &lt;br/&gt;1.8 Petrol&#xA;  &lt;br/&gt;5 Speed Manual Gearbox&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T00:26:48.017" Title="Vaxhall Astra H clutch problem" Tags="|clutch|vauxhall|brake-fluid|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2014-12-02T07:40:29.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If lots of people are having trouble bleeding the clutch, I would suggest buying a bleeding kit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a random product that will help&lt;/a&gt;. Your car has a hydraulic clutch and the only thing that will make a hydraulic clutch feel spongy is a lack of hydraulic pressure. Either because the fluid is low or because you have a leak somewhere. Or in extreme conditions where your clutch fluid is boiling, which is highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T13:01:10.967" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T13:01:10.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T07:47:19.550" Score="1" ViewCount="2471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Premio 260 model vehicle, anybody please help me to pair my extra smart key to my vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;your help highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7683" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T12:16:10.467" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T19:25:42.197" Title="How to program spare key for Toyota Premio 260" Tags="|toyota|key|car|smartkey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2014-12-02T11:41:09.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Astra H has a concentric clutch slave cylinder which means the gearbox has to be removed to replace it, 5 to 6 hour job. Try holding the clutch pedal down on the floor, engine idling - car in first - handbrake firmly on. Just keep it held down for a while and wait. If the slave is faulty, after a little time the clutch will try to take up the drive and will stall the engine as the slave slowly releases. If the slave cylinder is worn it can fail in two ways. Letting fluid out or letting air in. Afterwards check the bottom of the gearbox where it is attached to the engine, engine off, for any fluid and decide if it is brake fluid or not if any is found. Your symptoms point to a defective/worn seal/bore on the slave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T11:41:09.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12960" CreationDate="2014-12-02T12:59:10.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. And because I can't leave a 3-letter answer, here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.op-com.hu/default_en.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OP-COM&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OP-COM is a Windows based diagnostic program package for Opel / Vauxhall cars.&#xA;  The diagnostic program package covers a wide range of cars from&#xA;  1990-2013, latest models are also included!&#xA;  Main functions are read and clear fault codes, display live data,&#xA;  perform output tests. Immobiliser support, remote and key fob&#xA;  programming,&#xA;  change variant coding of various control units, and a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T12:59:10.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T17:15:50.290" Score="1" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2001 Hyundai Accent L 1.5 liter, 4 speed stick shift. The Check Engine light is on. The code that is coming up is &quot;EVAP under lean P1128 Fuel Trim Lean&quot;. All other monitors are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to get the car registered immediately. How do I run a drive cycle on this car? The only procedure I can find is for a automatic transmission. What else do I need to fix the CEL code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T20:31:52.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T14:41:49.803" Title="Drive cycle procedure for a 2001 Hyundai Accent" Tags="|hyundai|cel|accent|evap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T18:19:19.970" Score="3" ViewCount="7068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Ka 2005 - Has developed a water leak in the passeneger footwell. Car has been back to garage, couple of times now but problem persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've lost count the amount of times the car has been back to the garage now and it is still leaking. Not as much as it was but it is still leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage report they cannot locate the leak and keep adding more sealant each visit but after heavy rain there will be a small pool of water on the floor - passenger side. The carpet is still out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm it is definitely rain water and not coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7689" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T22:12:22.730" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T22:12:22.730" Title="Ford Ka - Passenger footwell water leak" Tags="|ford|water-leak|ka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2014-12-02T19:19:56.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this vehicle has air conditioning, I'd bet the condensation drain tube is plugged. When this happens, the excess water which collects has no where to go but into the passenger side foot well. To fix this, you need to find the drain tube which should stick down under the car on the passenger side of the engine bay (can only be accessed from below). When you locate it, put a long thin wire up the tube until you clear the blockage. You'll know it's unblocked when you get water out of the tube (presuming the A/C has been ran recently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T22:11:28.007" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T22:11:28.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13353" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:10:33.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is traction control working, doing what it's supposed to do.&#xA;On snow, however, it can be usually best to deactivate it, as most cars can do. It will help when getting out of the snow from stationary (if you have manual gear control, at least), but when on the move and uphill, you actually want to be able to control your wheelspin freely. If the engine cuts power when wheelspinning uphill, you risk losing speed and coming to an unavoidable halt, getting out of which may be difficult.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A great part of the ability of driving in the snow, particularly uphill, consists on being able to keep a steady speed while at the same time steering the car in the right direction. Most 4x2 Traction Control and ESP systems are yet nowhere near a good driver when it comes to this, so disabling them on the snow will help if you know how to drive on snow.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As a sidenote: on snow, there is nothing you can possibly do if you are not equipped with good winter tyres. Most people still fail to see that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:10:33.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13418" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:11:37.287" Score="4" ViewCount="76560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Ford Expedition 4WD truck that has a LOT of wiggle on the front left tire. I'm assuming that this is caused by a bad ball joint. Is that a safe assumption to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it is, what should I look for to determine whether both the upper and lower ball joints are bad, or just one of them? Also, more importantly, when replacing the ball joint(s), how do I determine whether or not the control arm also needs to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have basic mechanical knowledge, having replaced simple stuff like shocks, brakes, tires, starters, etc., but nothing super advanced. Is changing the ball joints something that I should even be attempting to do myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T00:04:42.423" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T00:37:29.177" Title="How to tell if the Control Arm is bad too, or just the ball joint" Tags="|ford|suspension|4wd|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13416" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:59:18.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it is not a safe assumption. There are three main places where a wheel could be loose at, assuming the lug nuts are tight. Those are the wheel bearing(s), upper/lower ball joints, or at bushings at the base of the control arm. You might also be getting deflection out of your tie rod ends or steering rack (if equipped) as well. You could also have a combination of the three going bad. There are different things you need to do to check to see if which part is bad. Each involves looking for where the movement is occurring at. In fact, if you jack the front end up and you can wiggle the tire, it is most likely NOT your ball joints, this is because there is spring pressure keeping the ball joints tight. Like I was saying, you really need to check to see where the deflection is occurring in order to diagnose the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel bearing, you should jack the vehicle up and wiggle the tire while off the ground. If you feel deflection or movement, you need to look at the back side of the tire. If the tire is moving and the rest of the suspension isn't, it's probably the bearing. It could be the inner or the outer wheel bearings, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the ball joint, jack up the front end of the vehicle so it is supported on jack stands, but not by putting them under the suspension. Use a frame rail or some other position. Now put a jack under one of the A-frames and jack it up enough to &lt;strong&gt;just&lt;/strong&gt; support the spring pressure. You want the jack to be supporting the control arm and for it to be solid. After this process your tire should be about 3-4&quot; off the ground. Next, place an 8' 2x4 under the center of the tire. You want about 6-8&quot; to be behind the tire and the rest to be out the front. You are going to use the board as a fulcrum to help you lift the tire up a little bit. Wiggle the board back and forth and notice if there is any movement at the point of the lower ball joint. This should be easier to detect because any movement doing this method means the ball joint is bad. There should be zero deflection between the lower control arm and the spindle. To be honest with you, the upper ball joint rarely goes bad because almost all of the abuse is covered by the lower ball joint (the lower supports the weight of the truck while the upper just keeps the spindle located).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see any movement out of the ball joint, you'll need to check the bushings at the base of the control arm. You are looking for major cracking or missing rubber in the bushing. More than likely you won't see movement out of this area, but you may see that it is displaced. It will need to look as though the control arm housing is centered around where the bolts go through. If it looks like it's off to one side or the other, it may be worn out. Check both front and back of both the top and bottom control arms. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the vehicle is back on the ground, you can check the tie rod ends. While a helper is in the cab, have them turn the steering wheel from left to right, only going far enough until the wheel stops turning easily. They won't need to move it far enough to actually move the tires. They will probably be going from the 11 to 1 o'clock position of the steering wheel. Just have them do it at a moderate pace (not fast/slow). You are going to be looking to see if there is any movement of the tie rod end but not at steering arm, both sides of the vehicle. You'll want to trace the steering linkage all the way back to the from the steering arm at the spindle to where it meets the steering unit (I don't remember if your year of F150 has a rack-n-pinion or steering box). Every place there is a joint, check to ensure there's no deflection. If there is a rack-n-pinion, you'll most likely have inner tie rod ends at the rack unit. You'll want to see if there is any movement there as well. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the tell tale signs that something is going bad in the steering department is if the dust cover is cracked/split. If a ball joint or tie rod end dust cover is split/cracked, that joint is most likely in the process of dieing. Pay special attention to these areas if you see it. Even if it doesn't show any deflection, it most likely will need to be changed soon. This usually occurs because non-serviceable (sealed) joints have dried out. Due to the crack, it lets dust/dirt in which helps destroy the joint even faster. Once this happens it's only a matter of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as doing the work yourself, it depends on which part is bad. If you're talking about bushings/tie rods/ball joints, this is a lot of work. If you don't have someone helping you who knows what they are doing, it would be tough to do, even with instructions. I'm not saying you couldn't get it done, but it would be a rough go of it. You would also need some specialized tools, like suspension spring compressor, a ball joint splitter, and ball joint press. Also, changing out the control arm bushings is a lot of work ... very much not easy to get it done right without knowing what you are doing (not intuitive). If you figure out it is the bearings, this is something which you can probably do, but there are a lot of parts which you have to be anal about both in cleanliness and with order/orientation. Then you'll need to know how to get the bearings/races off and the new ones on, as well as how to pack the bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to tackle this yourself, but are unsure of your diagnosis, you may want to take this to a shop and have them do the diagnosis. They should be able to tell you right away what's wrong with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T23:59:18.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2014-12-03T11:14:15.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the leak 'rain water' or 'engine coolant'? If you can smell a sweet smell inside the car and have a lot of internal misting of the vehicles windows them you proberbly have a heater radiator leak. Also on the bulk head in the engine compartment you will find the heater control valve which can cause leakage into the vehicle after the coolant runs around the bodywork under the bonnet. Also, the bonding of the windscreen to the body is a source of water leaks. Check the drain on the bulk head, a rubber tube affair hanging down from the bodywork behind the rear of the engine. They can become blocked with silt and flood the bulkhead, especially after heavy rain. Firstly though you need to determine if if is rainwater or coolant that constitutes the leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T11:14:15.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13412" CreationDate="2014-12-03T11:37:42.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1128 code tells you that the engine is running too weak under steady cruising when the EVAP system is checked by the ECU. You need to have an EVAP test to make sure where the fault lies. The fuel tank cap, EVAP vent, purge valves, O2 sensor, exhaust leak, MAP sensor and MAF sensor can all 'fool' the ECU into this code. Remember that the fault codes are what the ECU computes to be wrong, you still have to check the systems over for correct operation. The ECU can compute to 'EVAP fault' because of a faulty component such as the MAF, for example, but still have the MAF pass its monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T11:37:42.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-03T11:38:45.087" Score="0" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Nissan Micra K11 dashboard, the backlights for the clock and left-hand side of the speedo have stopped working. The dashboard is similar to the one pictured below, with the central clock and fuel/speedo/engine temperature gauges, no rev counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bulb(s) do I need to repair them, and do they need to be all replaced at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T11:53:20.543" Title="What bulbs do I need for a Micra K11 dashboard?" Tags="|nissan|micra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13422" CreationDate="2014-12-03T11:53:20.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'K11' covers a lot of Micra's. The bulbs come in a couple of varieties: Held captive in a plastic holder which comes with the bulb or the usual capless bulb. It is not necessary to change all of the bulbs at the same time, although prudence might say... &quot;while one or two have failed so others may fail soon&quot;... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T11:53:20.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-03T13:32:13.143" Score="5" ViewCount="5712" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is about my VW Polo (mk4). It's been a cat C in the past after taking a knock to the front bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs the coolant topping up every six weeks (ish). I've been carrying a bottle of water in the car for this reason. It takes about 75cl to top it up to max when it's empty. When it happens the engine temperature warning light comes on (red) on my dash after driving for two minutes and the level is below minimum. I've been keeping an eye on the coolant level, it can be on max for weeks, then suddenly below minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it in the garage in the hope they can find a leak, or a crack. They say it's sealed tight with no damage or leaks that they can find. My radiator is in good condition. It's not smoking from the exhaust, so I don't think I'm burning it off. Removing the oil cap - the underneath is not white or milky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do? I'd rather not take it to the dealers for diagnosis, but it looks like I'm going to have to now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7639" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T03:16:54.663" Title="Coolant below minimum every 6 weeks - Mk4 VW Polo" Tags="|vw|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14520" CreationDate="2014-12-03T15:51:43.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anybody know what would cause the following symptoms?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;strong&gt;1996 Golf MK3 diesel (not TDI).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove the car with no problem three days ago. Today I went to start it, and &lt;strong&gt;the battery is almost dead.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the ignition key, there is a &lt;strong&gt;rapid clicking noise&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;glow plug indicator flashes rapidly.&lt;/strong&gt; The motor won't turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That was today. Everything below was two weeks ago:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day the car worked fine and &lt;strong&gt;the next day the oil pressure lamp and battery indicator flickered red.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out on my trip and &lt;strong&gt;the battery was drained in less than an hour,&lt;/strong&gt; but when I jumpstarted the car it ran fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made an appointment with the garage, jumpstarted the car and started driving there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;En route, the same symptoms persisted, but then &lt;strong&gt;there was a noisy CLICK and everything seemed to go back to normal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic &lt;strong&gt;replaced the alternator&lt;/strong&gt; and told me the problem was fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7694" LastEditorUserId="7694" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T20:00:41.590" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T09:51:00.977" Title="Golf MK3 battery drains, rapid clicking on start, glow plug light flashes" Tags="|vw|ignition|diesel|golf|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13429" CreationDate="2014-12-03T20:19:02.667" Score="6" ViewCount="15095" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between dumping the clutch, and going from N-&gt;D at high RPMs with an automatic transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause any damage to the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7698" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:31:33.567" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:31:33.567" Title="Difference between &quot;dumping the clutch&quot; and N-&gt;D in an auto?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13437" CreationDate="2014-12-03T20:23:18.330" Score="5" ViewCount="2809" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a used approved vehicle. When I test drove it today, it has been &quot;professionally&quot; valeted and they have used some kind of synthetic spray all over the interior plastics and leather, including the steering wheel and gear lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feeling of it on the steering wheel is positively horrible. It feels somewhat sticky, and yet slippery at the same time; it's almost like they wiped vegetable oil all over the interior! It does shine though, although why you would want a shiny interior baffles me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do or what product/substance can I use to remove this stuff from the interior plastics and leather &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had in mind to use WD40 on paper towel. Is that safe for leather, plastics, etc, and will it not just add &quot;greasiness&quot;? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update - The Results&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying these, and other suggestions, I found the best thing was alcohol-based &lt;strong&gt;LCD screen wipes&lt;/strong&gt;. Everything else left it's own residue of sorts, although a leading brand baby wipe, the &quot;pure&quot; variety (no fragrance, no moisturiser, etc), proved to be second-best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the screen wipes, buffing afterwards with a cotton towel, and it worked perfectly. It does need a bit of elbow-grease so be prepared. The best quote I got to remove this professionally was £75 so I guess a £3 pack of wipes and an hour's work was worth it! Thanks for the suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastEditorUserId="7697" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T12:05:22.137" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T12:05:22.137" Title="Removing Interior Shine Spray" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13426" CreationDate="2014-12-03T22:11:10.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I'm using descriptive terms in this answer; there is&#xA;a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; more to the mechanics than I will cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;: Yes. You certainly &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; damage the vehicle by shifting from &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; (neutral) into &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; (drive) when the engine is revving (not idle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In A Nutshell&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By dumping the clutch in a manual, a gear is already engaged and you are &lt;em&gt;connecting&lt;/em&gt; the power to the drive-train. In an auto, you are engaging a gear &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; connecting the power to the drive-train at the same time by shifting from &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; into &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt;, and all while there is a massive amount of power going through the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Automatic Transmissions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a vehicle with an automatic transmission, there is (usually) a fluid-coupling between the immediate drive-train components (the gearbox) and the engine. This fluid coupling allows a certain amount of &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt; to occur between the power coming out of the engine, and the power going into the gearbox. The fluid coupling is the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Manual Transmissions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a manual vehicle, the power from the engine is separated from the gearbox by a rubber-like, sometimes-copper-buttoned, synthetic series of &lt;em&gt;plates&lt;/em&gt;. Some vehicles have several &lt;em&gt;plates&lt;/em&gt; while cheaper, less-powerful cars will usually have only one. This too, allows &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt; to occur between the engine and gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch performs the same function in both variants. However, in an automatic, it is almost always &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt;, even if it's a little. Apply more power, and the clutch gradually slips less,  &lt;em&gt;applying&lt;/em&gt; the power to the gearbox in a stream, and on through the drive-train to the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a manual car, when you release the clutch, the power is engaged and there is very little (if any) &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt;. Meaning, all the power is going to the wheels (through the drive-train), unless your clutch is old/worn/faulty. No power is in-transit or in reserve in the &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt; process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By shifting from &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; straight into &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; under high RPMs, you are asking the entire drive-train to handle a massive amount of torque and inertia, in a very short space of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;An Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a desktop fan;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zBzFw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stopping the blades is easy if you hold on to one, and turn on the power. It might kick, but you'll hold the blades in place pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now turn the fan on and try stopping the blades when they are going at full speed. Same engine power, but it's a different story with all that inertia and motion already going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, obviously, purpose-built transmissions which employ auto or semi-auto functionality in very powerful cars (Ferrari, Bugatti, Maserati, etc.). Those are built using advanced technology than you will not find in less-powerful, entry-level vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dumping the clutch in a manual transmission connects the gearbox to the engine's power (in a very sudden way) via the clutch. It does not engage the gear &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; while the engine is revving. The clutch helps transition the power from the engine to the gearbox smoothly. It does this by &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt; somewhat while the connection is being made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put simply, automatic transmissions are just not designed to be engaged while the engine is revving. The one exception is tiptronic-type transmissions, where gears can be changed sequentially while the vehicle is in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can and almost certainly &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; damage the vehicle if you use this practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T06:48:55.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13426" CreationDate="2014-12-03T23:08:27.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Line Up Front:&lt;/strong&gt; Basically there is no difference. You will break either type by doing what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question of &lt;em&gt;why you shouldn't do neutral drops in an automatic transmission&lt;/em&gt; ... consider this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internally, the transmission is made up of bands, planetary gears, clutches, steels, sprag units, servos, and at least one pump to move the fluid around. You have a valve body which directs the fluid to flow to the correct places at the correct times, to allow the all of these parts to function together harmoniously. While the transmission is engaged, all of the parts are basically tied together in one form or another (I could go into some basic transmission theory here, but won't bother because it won't answer the question). During this state of &lt;em&gt;togetherness&lt;/em&gt;, these parts can handle the stress of the engine. The transmission is designed to be able to transmit, or pass the power/torque through itself, in this state fairly efficiently. When you have the transmission in neutral and are revving your engine, only the front portion of the transmission is engaged. When you then engage the transmission (into drive or whatever gear you select) while the front portion of the transmission is spinning much higher than the rear part, you cause huge amounts of stress on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of the parts which I mention above, which, if stock, are not designed to handle it. You are forcing the transmission parts to &lt;em&gt;absorb&lt;/em&gt; a huge amount of stress when it is designed to &lt;em&gt;transmit it&lt;/em&gt;. I read a book by a man called Carrol Smith called, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0879381868&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; where he talks about metal fatigue, which in its basic sense, applies here. He basically says that metal can take only so much punishment before it fatigues and will fail. Some things are made to take punishment over and over again, but once you push it past its limits, it will fail. You are doing this to your transmission. It may be able to take a few such &quot;hits&quot;, but sooner or later it will fail. You are hastening this failure by your actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also asked why is it any different than dropping your clutch in a manual shift transmission. I'll say that in a manual transmission you are &lt;em&gt;mainly&lt;/em&gt; giving the punishment to the clutch in this situation, but the entire transmission is feeling the shock. Just as in your automatic transmission, if a manual transmission is not built to take the punishment you are doling out, it too will fail. Usually the clutch will go first before catastrophic failure of the transmission, but it does put a lot of stress on the gears which adds up over time. They too will fail and or wear out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T09:42:02.123" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T09:42:02.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T00:06:27.640" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a bunch of problems with my truck (2000 Ford Ranger) and I've been hoping to sell it. Most recently, I was driving it and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13204/what-is-this-cooling-system-related-part&quot;&gt;the heater control valve snapped&lt;/a&gt;. I drove it home and replaced the heater control valve and the first time I took it out, the heat wasn't working and it eventually started to overheat. I pulled it over and had it towed to the mechanic, then said I wanted it fixed so I could drive it again, but also that I'd like to have him look it over to see what kind of stuff I would need to fix before selling it (so that I didn't end up pawning off some death machine on someone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, the mechanic told me that the compression in all the cylinders is way low, and that it would be very expensive to fix because the engine would need to be replaced or rebuilt. They said that the overheating problem is also being caused by the bad compression because the coolant isn't being routed the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would not be surprised if it were a problem like bad compression, since the truck has consistently had a number of issues, and is always incredibly slow to start until it gets warmed up, but the one thing that is giving me pause is that the guy who runs the mechanic shop and one of his mechanics are both eager to buy the truck. I think the price they've offered is fair considering the expense of the repairs, but I'm a bit worried that they have an incentive to tell me the problem is worse than it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd love to be rid of the thing and not have to deal with this anymore (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6414/power-loss-in-truck-triage-options&quot;&gt;given the problems it has given me&lt;/a&gt;), so I'm happy to accept their offer if the compression is the problem. Can anyone tell me if these sound like problems that could be caused by bad compression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T10:29:04.777" Title="Could this be the result of bad compression?" Tags="|ford|compression|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2014-12-04T06:55:52.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't get heat into your cabin, it's usually because of a blocked radiator. That would explain your overheating too. Unfortunately, that ALSO means that you could have damaged your head gasket, which would explain the low compression and difficulty starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't sound particularly shady to me. Given your history and your current problem with the truck, there is a very good chance that they're telling you the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that rebuilding an engine will cost YOU a lot of money in labour and parts but if the mechanic buys the truck from you and keeps it for himself, he can work on it on his own time without spending &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; on labour and he probably has at least half the parts needed for a rebuild lying around the workshop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that it would cost you $4000 for an engine overhaul, whereas it would cost a guy who owns a workshop $1000 in parts and &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; in labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T06:55:52.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2014-12-04T09:49:07.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a (&lt;em&gt;rather annoying, imho&lt;/em&gt;) characteristic with &lt;strong&gt;this particular bike&lt;/strong&gt;. It doesn't happen with &quot;all bikes&quot;, although some may be slightly higher when turning the engine on after a cold night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Honda CBR 600 F4i, particularly in cold weather, tends to rev it's nuts off for the first few minutes (it's the automatic choke) until it warms up and calms down. I had a 2005 F4i and I believe that was the last year they tended to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this particular bike which is a bit old now, it's about right. Don't let it just sit there revving for ages though; you can set off within a minute of switching the engine on. Just &lt;em&gt;take it slowly&lt;/em&gt; until the engine has warmed up and the idle speed is back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T09:59:51.643" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T09:59:51.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2014-12-04T10:29:04.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The circulation of the coolant through the engine is by the engines water pump. Low compression would effect the performance of the engine, but not the circulation of the coolant. You proberbly have an engine that is not timed up correctly if all the compressions are all low, cams out for instance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T10:29:04.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13427" CreationDate="2014-12-04T10:45:21.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local tyre shop will have a supply of 'buffing' fluid which they use to clean a tyre prior to puncture repairs. It will remove the treatment on your steering wheel, and as it is aromatic will dry completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T10:45:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13425" CreationDate="2014-12-04T10:51:55.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic seems to have repaired the fault by replacing the alternator. A faulty alternator will drain the battery as you describe and can be quite dramatic in causing other symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T10:51:55.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13424" CreationDate="2014-12-04T11:02:23.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a carbon momoxide test on the coolant system to see if you have an internal leak from your engines cylinders. Search on YouTube for 'How to test head gasket failure using an antifreeze HC Tester'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T11:02:23.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T16:33:22.420" Score="4" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting my '79  Ford F700 bucket truck, the starter motor continues to crank after the engine starts and the key is released. Is the starter bad, the ignition switch faulty, or the solenoid switch bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7705" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T18:35:26.950" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T03:57:46.903" Title="Ford F-700 starter motor" Tags="|ford|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13442" CreationDate="2014-12-04T16:48:22.527" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any advantages between fewer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotawheels.com/wheel.php?id=65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thick Spokes&lt;/a&gt; and many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotawheels.com/wheel.php?id=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thin Spokes&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structurally  -  Weight  -  Brake Heat/Cooling  -  Maintenance/Cleaning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Application will be 17x8 +48 for a performance daily driver, summer use only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="7104" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T18:15:36.500" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T18:34:29.840" Title="Wheel Spokes: fewer thick vs many thin" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13441" CreationDate="2014-12-04T18:34:29.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Styling is pretty much the only real difference here. There is no inherent advantage to one over the other. Obviously The manufacturer is going to test their wheels to ensure the wheel meets a particular spec they (or the DOT) setup. Many wheels with thinner appearing spokes will actually run deeper into the wheel. While you don't see the extra material, it's there for added strength. The only way to make a large difference in strength is to have a solid center on the rim. If you think about rims, though, it's not usually the spokes which will exhibit problems: the outer rim will give first. With all of the abuse wheels take, it's in the outer rim where the damage will occur fist, not the spokes. It takes a lot of stress to damage a wheel ... not that they cannot be damaged, just they put up with a lot of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T18:34:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:04:24.553" Score="3" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 2002 Mercury Sable we purchased a year ago has red coolant in it. I found the owner's manual online and it recommends Ford Green or Ford Yellow. Will this coolant damage her vehicle? Can it just slowly be replaced or does it need to be flushed? She also seems to have a coolant leak we cannot find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T06:45:41.090" Title="2002 Mercury Sable with wrong coolant in it" Tags="|coolant|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13385" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:21:08.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same issue with my Nissan Rogue 2011. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This listed below will fix it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Go to General &gt; Restrictions &gt; Carplay -- Make sure Carplay is DISABLED. (The new IOS 8  enables this on default)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Go to General &gt; Reset &gt; Reset Network Settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple's stupid Carplay feature nearly ruined everything. Disable it and it will work flawlessly again with bluetooth and USB music. You're welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7708" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:21:08.520" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T23:22:18.910" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 92 Chevy sport pick up I have replaced the rotors, brakes, calipers and flex  brake hose on both sides and the driver side is still sticking and the rim gets hot I have checked everything I can think of please help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7709" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T15:01:48.350" Title="Brake sticking on 92 Chevy Sport pickup" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2014-12-04T23:24:10.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The antifreeze if actually red (as opposed to orange/red) is usually heavy duty and is specified for use in big trucks. This antifreeze should not hurt your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks more orangish, it is probably a Dex-Cool derivative. This should not be mixed, but will not cause issues if it is. Dex-Cool is an Organic Acid Technology (OAT). It has an extended life, but if mixed with green or yellow coolant, reduces its longevity, which is usually 2yr or 30k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Propylene Glycol is the &quot;green&quot; stuff. It has replaced Ethylene Glycol as it is less toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid Organic Acid Technology is usually yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that any of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Organic_acid_technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these technologies can be mixed without problems&lt;/a&gt;, though personally I would completely drain/flush your coolant system, then replace with whatever brand/type you are going to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/Coolants_matrix.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a chart&lt;/a&gt; of different coolants, their colors, and what technology they are considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T23:24:10.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13449" CreationDate="2014-12-05T10:42:35.887" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature where I live is in the fifties Fahrenheit and it seems like its taking a very long time for the engine to warm up and exit open loop mode.  I have a 97 Mazda Lantis 323 and I'm thinking that maybe the thermostat is stuck open.  Is it normal for it to take 15 minutes for the engine to warm up at that kind of starting temperature ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:39:21.653" Title="Thermostat Problem?" Tags="|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13448" CreationDate="2014-12-05T12:39:21.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are on the right track with the thermostat. No it should only take a few minutes max, even in colder temperatures for it to warm up. The thermostat is a cheap part to change and usually pretty easy to get to, so I don't think you are going to lose much by changing it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:39:21.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13440" CreationDate="2014-12-05T12:46:39.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 says, it's more likely to be the solenoid. To check this, use a multimeter to watch the voltage on the solenoid connector (the smaller of the two on the starter) as it's cranked - it should go to 12v(ish) when the key is turned, and back to 0v when it's released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're usually fairly integral to the starter, so it's normally a case of replacing the whole starter, but you might be able to get your existing one refurbished - a lot of places dealing with starters for older vehicles will do so on an exchange basis, so they will send you a refurbished one, then you send them your old one, which they then refurbish for the next person. (I suspect you know that, but other readers might not...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:46:39.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T21:30:40.927" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Afternoon, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Ford Focus SE that i use as my Work Vehicle. I work in Emergency Roadside Assistance. I have to run a laptop In the car in order to direct calls to other employees and charge a hotspot and phone. Recently i have been interested in adding an amplifier and Sub into the car as i spend 12 hours a day driving to calls. I have the laptop and chargers running through a 140amp/400amp(Peak) power converter. My father is a mechanic and has expressed some concern about adding the amp and sub into the vehicle with everything else the vehicle is running already. Im looking for any ideas that dont involve adding a second batter unless that is my absolute only way. Please assist with any positive and negative side affects of option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &#xA;Devon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7714" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:11:31.333" Title="Alternator/Battery power question" Tags="|battery|alternator|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T21:44:47.940" Score="3" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to run an implement requiring a minimum of 35 hp at 540 rpm with a small engine running 3600 rpm with a 6:1 gear reduction. What horsepower engine would be required to get the min hp to run the implement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7715" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:40:42.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:40:42.003" Title="tractor to small engine with gear reduction" Tags="|conversion|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T22:28:37.350" Score="3" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my 2010 Hyundai Accent has a peculiar issue. If it's raining and I first start driving and apply the brakes, maybe the first two or three times as I'm approaching a stop the brakes will all of a sudden lock up and squeal quite badly. My neighbor has the same car (I'm not sure the year) and he says his does the same thing. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? I'm not a mechanic, but its annoying enough that I would attempt to fix it myself if its possible. Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7716" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T12:58:01.587" Title="2010 Hyundai Accent brakes squeal/stick when wet" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13453" CreationDate="2014-12-05T22:51:18.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need about 40 HP @ 3600 rpm at a minimum in order to run it. Here is my math (please correct me if I'm wrong):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35 HP @ 540 rpm = 340.41 ft lbs (convert HP to Torque)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;340.41 / 6 = 56.735 ft lbs (6:1 gear reduction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;56.735 @ 3600 rpm = 38.89 HP (minimum size of engine if actually running at 3600rpm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to look at the spec of any engine to ensure the speed and hp actually mate up. Some small engines may product 40 HP, but will do it at say 5000 rpm, which would mean @ 3600 rpm the HP output may be much lower. 40 HP is going to be the minimum number to shoot for, I'd think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T22:51:18.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T01:14:55.287" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed recently that my brake goes soft and almost to the floor. Several months ago I had new brakes put on and I just took it in again to bleed the brakes. &#xA;I just picked up the car and the brakes feel the same.  Any ideas?&#xA;The mechanic noticed that there was hardly any oil in the car. It was puzzling because in October I just had the oil changed.  Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7718" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T13:01:41.927" Title="Help! 2005 Mazda 3 brakes" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="864" CreationDate="2014-12-06T11:53:10.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the not-so-stock look, you could step up to a serpentine system (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marchperf.com/pg48.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one from March Performance Pulleys&lt;/a&gt;). This would bring your drive system into the 21st century, look better, work better, and free up some horsepower. Having three belts drive your accessories has a lot of parasitic draw on the engine. Each pulley which pushes a belt and shares multiple belts is eating up your performance. Having a single belt is just plain more efficient. It works better because the multiple v's of a serpentine belt have more surface area than a single v-belt, allowing it to grip better. The serpentine system also utilizes a tensioner pulley which allows the belt to have Goldie Locks tension (not too tight, not too loose, but just right). While it is a bit of money up front, having the serpentine system would give you piece of mind all those belts you have now can in no way give you. This answer is just here as an alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T11:53:10.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T15:32:11.643" Score="0" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some typical properties of a 1.4L rear-drive car's drive shaft, drive-wheel shafts and the gearbox. I need to calculate the moment of inertia of the components of the drive-train. So i am looking for dimensions and material of the drive train components of a typical car. Also the transmission ratio of the pinion-drive shaft would be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These data will be just a small part of a thesis on the vibration control, so i wish i could find them easy. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vaggelis K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7721" LastEditorUserId="7721" LastEditDate="2014-12-06T16:18:06.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:59:19.013" Title="Material and construction properties of drive shafts, wheel shafts, gearbox" Tags="|transmission|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13465" CreationDate="2014-12-06T20:19:56.317" Score="5" ViewCount="4003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite familiar with the code used to define tire sizes, but one aspect of the code always confuses me. The second number defines the sidewall height as a percentage of the tire's width. As an example, my Ford ZX2 has 195/60R15 front tires and 205/60R15 rear tires. In both cases, the sidewall height is 60% that of the tire's width. Does this mean the rear tires have a slightly larger diameter than the front tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer to that question is yes, then that is where I am confused. Since choosing a wider tire (particularly for handling reasons, as I've done with my Ford since it's far less squirrely at highway speeds than with 195s) means the tire is also larger, you would have to compensate by choosing a lower sidewall height value. Thus, one variable of the tire's dimension affects two values in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't this make choosing an appropriate tire less intuitive and more difficult for buyers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be more intuitive to express sidewall height in reference to the wheel diameter versus the total wheel+tire diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the second number referred to the percentage of diameter that is occupied by the wheel, then 60R15 would mean the tire fits on a 15-inch wheel, and the sidewall is 5 inches high for a total diameter of 25 inches (?/15 = 100/60; thus, 15 x 100 / 60 = 25). This matches closely with the actual diameters of my car's wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the current code, I couldn't opt for a 150/60R15 or a 300/60R15 and get the same total diameter. I'd have to change that second number as well (higher for the 150mm wide tire, and lower for the 300mm wide tire). But under a percentage-of-diameter variant of the code, 150/60R15, 200/60R15, and 300/60R15 would all have exactly the same sidewall height and fit on exactly the same size wheel&amp;mdash;they would just have different tire and tread widths! Or I could simply choose a 200/80R15 instead of 200/60R15 and have a lower profile tire and be done with it. I'd only need to futz with one number instead of two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't the sidewall height merely expressed as a percentage ratio between the wheel diameter and the tire diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7722" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T11:03:21.220" Title="Why is tire sidewall height expressed as percentage of width?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T22:35:39.483" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have Toyota Surf 3.0 L . i need to visit the places which are plus 4000 meters (15000 feet). do i need to use low octane fuel or do i need to increase the intake of fuel due to high altitude and less oxygen. please explain in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7723" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T10:00:19.970" Title="how to take petrol cars at high altitude ( plus 12000 feet)" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T23:57:47.797" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use an external charger to charge the battery in my US-market 2008 Jetta 2.5L SE with an OEM battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to figure out which nuts to get to fit the existing battery terminal bolt, in order to use the ring terminal attachment of the charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gotten some M6 nuts at Home Depot, however, they didn't seem to screw-on at all.  I've then gotten 1/4&quot; ones, and they only seem to screw between maybe 180&amp;deg; and 240&amp;deg; on one of the bolts, and maybe at most 90&amp;deg; onto the other bolt (I haven't tried using any tools, just hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I use 1/4&quot; or M6?  Or something else entirely?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would be the best way to attach the ring terminals of the charger to the car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T23:57:47.797" Title="Nuts for 2008 VW Jetta SE 2.5L battery terminal bolts: 1/4&quot; or M6?" Tags="|battery|wiring|nut|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T11:20:23.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T06:51:32.713" Score="4" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I forgot to fill my motorcycle tank with stabilizer and now it is way to cold to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I still put the stabilizer in it? I read the instructions and it is not recommended to use it if the fuel is a few weeks old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6667" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T05:23:39.030" Title="Forgot to use stabilizer with motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|fuel-tank|stability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13461" CreationDate="2014-12-07T10:00:19.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carry on using your regular fuel. The BARO in your engines ECU will adjust for altitude, and O2 sensors and MAP will keep the engine running sweetly. You may notice a small drop off in power but it will not be enough to be unduly concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T10:00:19.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13460" CreationDate="2014-12-07T11:03:21.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are given yourself undue consternation. The tyre sizing protocol is just one way of identifying a tyre size which has been universally adopted. The tyre size for a vehicle is decided at its design stage. To change to a differant size, say my cars tyres which are 205/55 16, the maths are : Multiply the  tyre’s width by the aspect ratio to get aspect height (205 x 0.55 = 112.75), Convert into inches (112.75 / 25.4 = 4.44),  Double the aspect height (4.44 x 2 = 8.88), Add to the inside diameter of the tyre (8.88 + 16 = 24.88). 24.88 is the overall diameter of my tyres. Now if I decided to change tyres they must be within 1% of this same calculation result. If not they will cause problems with the speedo and the transmission gearing if I change rim diameter. The popular change would be a wider tyre which does not radically alter this overall diameter but will present the likelyhood of fouling on the bodywork or suspension at the front, unless the vehicle is adapted for the tyre size by offsetting the rims and flaring the wheel arches. One other consideration is the contact area of the tyre and road. At design of the vehicle the contact area can be thought of as a square. Increasing the width of the tyre changes the contact area to an oblong. This oblong area becomes increasingly narrow with increasing width and at some point starts to decrease road holding. (I didnt believe it at first either). Lowering tyre pressures to compensate causes excessive tyre wear and increased fuel consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T11:03:21.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13463" CreationDate="2014-12-07T11:37:33.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drain the fuel in the tank. Then fill it back up with gas which has stabilizer in it. Once this is accomplished, get the bike started and let it run until fully warmed up. This will ensure all of the old gas has been purged. After this, you should be good until spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T11:37:33.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2014-12-07T11:44:53.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturing cars is a commercial enterprise. Cars are built with very wide criteria to arrive at a finished product. Materials used, dimensions and the such like would be arrived at after expensive design and testing proceedures. To complicate matters you have a situation where there is no such thing as a typical car or component, even they may do the same job. Typical materials, say steel, can be alloyed and treated to various processes to produce a steel with a desired property. This then would cascade into the realms of dimensions, machining requirements, costs and a myriad of other considerations. The information you require would really be 'trade secrets' and are extremely unlikely to be in any public domain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T11:44:53.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13457" CreationDate="2014-12-07T12:06:35.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A vehicle fitted with a modern brake servo, as the Mazda 3 would have 'servo travel'. To determine how much travel you have: Engine off, pump the brake several times until it is hard and will not increase its pedal height anymore, press the brake pedal and hold it pressed, car in neutral start the engine still holding the brake pedal down with your foot. You will find the brake pedal travels down an amount. This is your servo working as it should. Is there any great differance in brake travel when operating the brake whilst driving, or is it about the same? If it is about the same then you now know it is your servo's operation giving you its travel. But if the travel is greater in use you have a problem and the brake system needs to be pressure tested, and a careful examination of its hoses undertaken by a competent mechanic. As for the low oil level, was it fully filled up on the oil change? Do you have blue smoke out of the exhaust? Sump plug washer and oil filter seal good? The longer it is before the low oil level is noticed to be low the harder it would be to say why the oil level was found to be low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T12:06:35.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13454" CreationDate="2014-12-07T12:16:12.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it only happens when wet and cold, I suspect that the friction between pad and disc is increased by the rain water enough to cause the grabbing. One thought is that the the water is turned to steam and effectively increases the brake pressures effect on the brakes as the steam is unable to escape from between pad and disc. You should never the less run it past your mechanic to fully check the brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T12:16:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13445" CreationDate="2014-12-07T12:26:52.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like something is mis-aligned or bent on the brake assembly. A careful comparison of the mountings of the calipers to the vehicle; loose hub bearing allowing wheel free play; twisted brake hoses; metal brake pipes 'flattened' or bent between hose and master cylinder should all be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T12:26:52.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2014-12-07T21:36:55.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electricity is always cheaper than petrol.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery charges may be useful for seasonal equipment -- if you store certain equipment with lead-acid batteries during the winter without resorting to the native charging system of the equipment (lawn mower, for example), then doing trickle charging during the winter will help maintain the full charge capacity of the battery, and prevent sulfation and premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if your battery has been fully discharged 100%, it'll take several hours of driving in order to fully charge it back up.  Consider that a normal car battery is rated, say, &lt;strong&gt;61 A·h&lt;/strong&gt;, then even if your alternator could poke it with 50A for a whole hour, it'll still be left uncharged; in reality, 20A charges are often called &quot;rapid&quot;, 10A is &quot;fast&quot;, and the normal charges are more likely to be just 6A to &lt;strong&gt;8A&lt;/strong&gt;, which means that a fully discharged battery of a compact car will take something like at least &lt;strong&gt;8 hours&lt;/strong&gt; to reach the full charge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, if you leave a 100% drained battery to a jump-starting alone, and drive less than 4 hours per week, and have it charged during the normal use of the car in a small city with little driving over the course of several weeks or months, the battery might sulfate prematurely due to having a partial charge for such several months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T21:36:55.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T15:54:19.587" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 Civic LX has an issue where no matter the vent setting (feet only, defrost/feet, defrost only) the front vents are always blowing. I'm not talking about the little vents either that point to the driver/passenger door glass but the actual four outter and inner vents. When switching to non-front vent modes I do get what I select but it's always in addition to the front vents. I'm assuming it's a bad connection or board somewhere under the dash. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7731" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T20:52:16.607" Title="Front Vent Always On Regardless of Vent Setting 1997 Civic LX" Tags="|civic|vents|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13475" CreationDate="2014-12-08T16:37:14.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vents are operated by cables which are connected to the lever controls behind the dash. They can become dis-connected at thier ends. A simple refit of the cable(s) may be all is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T16:37:14.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="90359" CreationDate="2014-12-08T16:59:09.217" Score="0" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other electric cars with a floor-integrated battery pack other than the Tesla?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDVSN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7732" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T00:02:49.547" LastActivityDate="2022-11-20T01:51:41.237" Title="Car with floor-integrated battery pack" Tags="|battery|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T17:23:14.950" Score="4" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;At about 20&amp;deg;C, there has been a situation that the OEM battery in my '08 Jetta was not capable of starting the car at all (virtually no movement of the starter at all), after being used for at least an hour to charge a cell phone and open/close the power windows with the engine not running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, leaving it alone for some 15 to 30 minutes, and the car started just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen?  I thought the surface charge is generally only something that is positive compared to the overall condition of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:17:56.717" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:17:56.717" Title="Negative surface charge?" Tags="|electrical|battery|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T18:44:12.380" Score="7" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OEM battery in my 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13478/negative-surface-charge&quot;&gt;nearly fully discharged one month back (had insufficient surface charge after a prolonged use without the engine running, but leaving it idle for 20 minutes made the car start again)&lt;/a&gt;, then worked fine for a few days afterwards (but without being subjected to much charge), but then was discharged again after only a quarter of the prior abuse (since it was probably not fully charged since the prior discharge, me underestimating the driving time it would take to bring the battery back to fuller life, plus possibly missing out on water, as I found out later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequently, on I-40 in Arizona in November, it has failed on me several times, with 7&amp;deg;C being the ambient temperature.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13172/how-much-water-can-be-safely-added-to-a-battery/13279#13279&quot;&gt;In New Mexico, I added some water to it, 20ml to all cells for prophylactics, and 70ml to the nearest-plus cell to bring to meniscus, 30ml to second, none to the middle-ones, and 20ml to the nearest-minus one, but it still failed to contain much charge after some casual city driving.&lt;/a&gt;  Subsequently, after a 12-hour drive at -4&amp;deg;C and a 3-hour drive at 10&amp;deg;C, it did let the car start two days after the last drive (yeay!), but still failed the next day afterwards (the starter would work just fine, but the voltage would drop to a level that the electronics seem to find unacceptable, so it couldn't start by itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the battery &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13384/would-a-sulfated-discharged-12v-battery-charge-at-12-5v&quot;&gt;has been subjected to several days of charging at a stationary smart charger&lt;/a&gt;, with the ambient temperature being between 8&amp;deg;C and 25&amp;deg;C.  It has then been driven for a couple of short trips, then sat idle for 5 days, and read 12.1V on the fifth day of being left undisturbed, and being able to start the car just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still working fine a few days afterwards (but without being subjected to the extra abuse).  The starter is not extra quick, but there are no signs that the power drops below the level required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has it been resurrected?  Is measuring 12.1V after 5 days of disuse at 10&amp;deg;C to 25&amp;deg;C a good indication that it has at least some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;40% (source 1: 12,0V @ 25%, 12,2V @ 50%)&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;50+% (source 2: 40% is 11,96V, 50% is 12,10V, 60% is 12,24V)&lt;/a&gt; of its original capacity available for full use?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T02:09:17.690" Title="how do i know if my lead-acid battery has been resurrected?" Tags="|battery|power|charging|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T19:06:31.393" Score="4" ViewCount="3398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 1989 Toyota Corolla 4 door manual, 190k miles. Runs great once it starts. Problem is it has an intermittent no start (no crank) problem. Relevant facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When it happens, I clutch in (in neutral, too) turn the key, and hear one click, but that's it. Lights work, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I try a few times and it works. Often it &quot;cooperates&quot; more with my wife, and perhaps she does something slightly different when starting it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that sometimes if I briefly disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect, it will start. It doesn't always work, though. For all I know, this is superstition on my part, since it might have started anyway. But for a while there, it sure seemed to do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Took out battery and brought to AutoZone. They tested it on the counter and it read 100% charged. Battery is 1-2 years old, 550 CCA. They also now cleaned the posts really well. I need to get out there and clean the inside of the connectors better today.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Happens more frequently in colder and damper days. Problem had not been happening recently since it was last cold (in about Feb/Mar), but kicked in again in November when it got very cold here (like 15F), but can happen at 30F or 40F. Seems worse when it is damp as well as cold.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seems more likely to happen if sits for a week without being driven or started.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jump starting the car will sometimes get it to start. (But again, the battery read 100%).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once it does start cranking, it has a some trouble &quot;catching&quot; and I often have to pump the gas quite a bit. Sometimes I wind up flooding the engine and have to wait a while before trying again. I also often have to flutter the gas pedal to keep it running. Once it is really going, though, it stays running fine indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The (original!) alternator was replaced last year.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today it started fine. But it is always a bit of a roll of the dice the last few weeks when it is cold. Sometimes it won't start for hours, and then my wife tries it and bam, starts up fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might it be? I don't want to bring it to a mechanic and have them replace the whole starter if it might be something else (an outcome I've read online a number of times today), particularly since this car is so old and I don't want to put more $ into it now (would probably rather buy a newer used car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I scraped the battery connectors on the inside with a knife. The negative connector is still loose enough that I can easily pop it off with my hands (can't get it to tighten on well). But even so, started right up now. My concern is that if I bring it to a mechanic, will they be able to diagnose the problem even if it happens to be starting well when they try it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6948" LastEditorUserId="6948" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T19:30:59.687" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T17:33:38.333" Title="Intermittent no start/no crank problem 1989 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13477" CreationDate="2014-12-08T19:20:10.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only if Tesla leases them rights to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US20120160583&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their patent&lt;/a&gt; on this. Tesla's patent was published on June 28, 2012, so I'm doubting there are any other vehicles with this same technology, at least using Tesla's patent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find a separate patent filing by Ferrari which covers the use of floor mounted batteries in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/exotic/1303_ferrari_laferrari_first_look/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LeFerrari&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure how it truly differs from the Tesla design, but would assume it is substantial enough to not get sued by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not seeing much else with this type of technology, but there may be some forthcoming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T19:20:10.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T20:07:10.930" Score="11" ViewCount="75501" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would appear that the common word of wisdom is that car alternators provide 50A of output.&#xA;I actually looked at the supposed specs for my 2008 Jetta 2.5L on the internet -- a compact car -- and it would appear that it might be rated for &lt;strong&gt;140A 14V&lt;/strong&gt; (in ideal conditions?), which is a lot of power -- &lt;strong&gt;1960 watts&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much of this 140A ends up charging the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13172/how-much-water-can-be-safely-added-to-a-battery&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;12V 61 Ah 330A DIN&lt;/strong&gt; battery&lt;/a&gt; of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to determine whether the battery is getting a sufficient charge from the alternator in various operating conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, it would appear that my alternator has passed the &lt;em&gt;AutoMeter BVA-230&lt;/em&gt; test at &lt;em&gt;O'Reilly Auto Parts&lt;/em&gt; just fine, same for my 6-year-old OEM battery (which within the subsequent week has refused to start the engine after an overnight at 7&amp;deg;C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after I pressed them for what's going on (during the above visit where everything has passed all of their tests and they were ready to leave me alone, assuring me that I have absolutely nothing to worry about), and asked for a re-test with both of the heated seats turned to the max, and same for AC, with the car at idle, they did immediately say that my alternator is failing several of their tests and I must replace it ASAP; when I explained to them that it's not supposed to power so much stuff at idle, and asked for a third re-test at higher RPM, it seems like it did again pass the voltage test now, but supposedly still failed a test called &quot;diodes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In manual testing with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007CT6510&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;12V car voltmeter&lt;/a&gt;, it does appear that I have about 14,1V to 14,3V at idle with everything off for a few minutes after starting the car, but if I do turn both seats and the AC on, then it goes down to maybe as low as 13,1V or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At such 13,1V at 600 RPM idle with lots of stuff being on, is the battery still charged, left neutral, or is it actually being discharged?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it help to rev the engine (maybe to 2k RPM?) prior to turning the key off, if it was left idle at 0,6k RPM for more than 10 minutes, with all the accessories being on?  How long should one rev it for and to how high an RPM?  What's better -- revving the engine for a while, or simply turning off all accessories, and not revving?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T15:37:56.190" Title="how fast does the alternator charge the battery?" Tags="|battery|alternator|power|jetta|charging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T20:34:25.927" Score="3" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've installed a remote car starter in Hyundai Elantra. When started remotely with no key in the ignition, the radio is off and cigarette lighter socket is off (it is back-lit though) I would like to have the cigarette lighter socket powered when remotely started (but unpowered when the engine is off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7735" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:16:04.947" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:16:04.947" Title="Powering cigarette lighter socket with remote start" Tags="|electrical|remote-start|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T00:14:36.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mazda5 2013, trying to fix an annoying issue - every time I set air to blow towards windshield, recirculation is turning off - and there is no way to turn it back on if selector is still in the &quot;defroster&quot; or &quot;defroster and floor vents&quot; position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual says &quot;&lt;em&gt;When selecting either defroster mode, the air conditioner and fresh air mode are automatically turned on by the system. This helps defrost the windows more efficiently by dehumidifying the air&lt;/em&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is - I don't care if defrosting will take a little longer with recirculation turned on ( so I don't have to inhale exhaust fumes)  - I can live with that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just about defrosting - when my windshield is getting misty while I am on a freeway, I have no choice but to switch air to &quot;defrost&quot; position and recirculation is getting turned off automatically&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here is the question - &lt;strong&gt;is there any way to manually override that &quot;feature&quot; and be able to set recirculation even while defroster mode is selected?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastEditorUserId="1445" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T16:55:56.583" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T09:29:30.320" Title="Mazda5 - any way to disable &quot;recirculation off while in defrosting mode&quot; feature?" Tags="|ac|mazda|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T03:02:44.990" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a few things not working, one at a time, as I tried to use them. One, the rear defroster switch on the dassh quit. Two, the PULL feature on the wiper stick on the column for the window washer quit. Three, the INTermittent setting for the wipers quit (but LO and HIGH work fine) and Four, the &quot;RESIDUAL&quot; power (radio, windows, etc.) after the the key is turned off quit. They're pretty random to me so I'm really hoping it's a fuse or something simple like that. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7737" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:02:13.520" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T06:07:15.870" Title="'95 Honda Accord random/sudden electrical failures" Tags="|honda|electrical|troubleshooting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6092" CreationDate="2014-12-09T04:17:07.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Too late to help the OP, but for future searchers:) Aero people use United-Erie &quot;EZ Turn Fuel Lube&quot; (SAE or Mil Spec &quot;G-6032D&quot;).  It isn't officially a sealant, so the clamps are still doing the work.  But it is fuel resistant, thus forms a non-hardening layer between the metal and rubber parts, and you won't have to rip or distort the hoses from cranking them off next time.  (Despite using this stuff, those &quot;aero people&quot; probably also replace every hose with brand new each time they touch anything, anyway!-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7739" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T04:17:07.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2014-12-09T14:40:56.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of slow leaks in my soft-top convertible and, as a temporary measure until I can afford a new top, I use moisture absorbers from Dollar Tree to keep water from building up and prevent mold. It's the same stuff as Damp-Rid, but the containers are only a dollar apiece. They are throw-aways, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big tip- do not let them spill. You will have a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6674" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:35:25.383" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:35:25.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13488" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:09:45.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the age of your vehicle you will need to take the effect of corrosion into account as well as the possibility of a loose connection. Using a wiring diagram, a check over of the supply and earth wiring is required of the controls that are failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:09:45.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13487" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:16:26.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the apparent contradiction of it, using the AirCon and heater to defrost the windows is a very much quicker to clear the windows on a cold start. The Mazda is one of many cars that use this as a device to enable good visibility for a quicker drive away from starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:16:26.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13483" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:38:55.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On older vehicles the alternator would give out a high rate until it became warm. This used to be known as its saturation point. The alternator output would then drop off to supply the demand put on it plus maybe a couple of amps. A later 'smart' alternator and its control system can carry out conductive tests while operating and will better re-charge the battery. Never the less the continuous charging and discharging of the battery will eventually sulphate its plates and diminish its performance. If you wanted to you could buy an 'amp clamp' and follow the charging rate without disconnecting any cables. Or charge the battery at around 1 amp, then discharge the battery fully with a 1.2 watt bulb across it. Repeat this until the battery is de-sulphated. The more usual and easier option is to simply replace the battery regardless on its third birthday, especially if the vehicle is used for critical operations. In any event any alternator will only give out its maximum rating under a full stress test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:38:55.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12434" CreationDate="2014-12-09T16:26:34.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batteries have what is called a &lt;em&gt;surface charge&lt;/em&gt;, which is probably the reason yours tested 12.6V -- you should wait several hours at room temperature prior to testing the voltage of the battery to compare against the 12.6V/12.7V standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you had intermittent electrical issues might be related to the fact that battery was consuming a lot of power (maybe indeed related to a shorted cell, as they call it).  The alternator is generally not designed to produce enough power when the car is at its idle and all accessories are on (especially some power hungry ones like heated seats and AC), so, that is likely where your symptoms were at its worse (perhaps also complicated by a weak alternator in addition to the old battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, prior to discarding an old maintenance-free battery, you might want to check the water level within, add some distilled water, to see if the situation could be improved.  However, it's probably unlikely to help if one of the cells in your battery has indeed developed a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:26:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T16:36:38.013" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13172/how-much-water-can-be-safely-added-to-a-battery/13279#13279&quot;&gt;Adding distilled water to my car battery, I've noticed only the side cells very short of reaching the meniscus.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most positive cell, facing the front of my '08 Jetta 2.5L (which has empty space, and probably collects a lot of heat from the engine, especially when the two frontal engine cooling fans are on), required almost 90ml of water, the next cell only some 50ml, the following ones seem to already be at around meniscus (added 20ml each for prophylactics after 6 years of service), and final negative one, closer to the cabin, 40ml.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it always like this?  If so, why aren't they making cells of varying size and level of meniscus, so that more water could be contained within the cells more likely to be kept at a higher temperature and evaporate and/or gas prematurely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T10:31:42.670" Title="Is it always the side battery cells that need topup?" Tags="|battery|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T17:47:16.913" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased this car used just one year ago, and the check-engine light just came on yesterday. I'm not used to having a Toyota, or even a car - all my previous vehicles, for the past 15 years, have been big pickup trucks and SUVs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So please - someone - can you give me an idea of what it wants me to do? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7744" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T19:45:57.767" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T19:45:57.767" Title="2000 Toyota Camry, check engine light at 164,450 - what does this mean?" Tags="|toyota|cel|camry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-09T20:33:22.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2014-12-09T19:45:19.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;. Any of the cells might need water. All of them would need water (or electrolyte) if it were tipped over. Usually when one needs it they all need it, but no rhyme or reason to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T19:45:19.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13475" CreationDate="2014-12-09T19:58:43.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a mistake as I double checked the operation of the vents and it turns out the middle vents do turn off when they're supposed to. I was under the impression the outter vents would turn off as well but they don't as they're tied directly to the mini-vents that point towards the driver or passenger window. I just closed the outer vents to direct more flow to the mini-vents. Thanks for the details though as maybe it may help someone in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7731" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T19:58:43.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T20:34:46.500" Score="8" ViewCount="15463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a car with an Ackermann steering mechanism. According to everything I have read about Ackermann steering, if I set up my steering mechanism like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5dlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ackermann Steering mechanism from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... then I should get behaviour like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qd77F.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ackermann Steering mechanism from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, not according to my CAD. The front wheel axes crossing point actually traces out a path somewhat distant from the rear axle projection, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BCrNh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ackermann steering locus&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this what I should expect? Or have the rules of geometry suddenly changed within my CAD package?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7746" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T01:56:34.220" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T15:01:11.753" Title="Designing an Ackermann steering mechanism" Tags="|steering|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:23:50.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ackermann Theory states the meaning of your first drawing, ie that a line drawn through the center line of the track and the steering track rod end would pass through the centre of the rear axle. To achieve this with your with CAD programme you will need to include camber, caster and the suspensions included angle to facilitate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:23:50.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2014-12-09T22:35:37.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In contrary to Nick C I would actually recommend Citroëns. But I agree that those with hydropneumatique suspension are probably not the easiest ones. But Citroën also built way simpler cars: The &lt;strong&gt;2CV&lt;/strong&gt; for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many things the 2CV and most of its derivatives (Dyane, Mehari, Ami 6, Ami 8, etc.: Citroën's &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; models) are as easy as a car can be — and fun to drive with the soft suspension and the close-to-cabriolet feeling. Actually one of the design principles back in the 1930s was that the car should be so simple that the blacksmith around the corner should be able to do most repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2CV's mechanics are easy to understand and simple. No distributor, only two, easily reachable cylinders, no electronics at all (although some third party electronic devices may be better than the original only-electric ones). Some things are unconventional (suspension, ignition) but usually for the simplicity's sake. E.g. the (4-stroke) 2-cylinder boxer engine is rather easier than more complicated than a 4-cyclinder engine. And you can easily remove the whole engine with two persons or one strong person plus a car jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there are also tons of kit cars based on the 2CV due to its simplicity — not only in UK. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citrobe.org/kitcars.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.citrobe.org/kitcars.htm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://world.citroen1.info/kitcars.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://world.citroen1.info/kitcars.htm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://2cv-kitcar.startkabel.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://2cv-kitcar.startkabel.nl/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.2cvkitcarclub.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.2cvkitcarclub.nl/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.2cvkitcarforum.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.2cvkitcarforum.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Disclaimer: I drive my 2CV for more than the half of my life and of course I'm biased. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7748" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T22:35:37.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2014-12-09T23:18:21.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to make some modifications to your cad drawing so it is in line with what the Ackerman Theory is stating. I'm sure once you get things correct in your drawing, you'll find it will work just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added some annotations to this image to help you understand where you are going wrong with your example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0qZt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, do you notice that on your example, you have the pivot point (turning point of your tire) right exactly at the edge of the tire. You'll see that in this image, the pivot point (red arrows marked &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;) is noticeably away from the tire a distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the point at which the turning mechanism (red arrows marked &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;) are a come in board from the pivot points quite a bit. You have this in your drawing, but I'm pretty sure it's not enough. The point of where this point should be at is described as being thus: If you draw a line through the pivot point (&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;) to the center point of your rear axle (red arrow marked &lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;), the arm pivot point (&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;) should be located on that line somewhere, but before the rear of the tire (I'm actually guessing on the length of the steering arm, but this length seems logical). It needs to be long enough to provide the difference, but not so long as to tie things up. If I were a betting man, I'd put it at ~70% of the tire radius (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I did say &lt;em&gt;tire&lt;/em&gt; radius, not the swing arm radius). Nevertheless, the point of rotation on the steering arm needs to be located on this line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you aren't put out if it doesn't work &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; along the entire turning radius, it won't be. According to Carroll Smith, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0879380713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tune to Win&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; he states (pg. 60):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No single intersection point will result in true Ackerman steering over the whole range, but by moving the intersect point in the longitudinal plane, you can come close in the normal range of steering angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have these things corrected, I think you'll find your model to work much closer to what you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, if you want to get technical about it, you could lay it out mathematically. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racetech.com.au&lt;/a&gt; spells it out (NOTE: They don't have a clear picture or I'd steal it and post it here. If I have time later, I will remake their diagram and edit this post.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T23:18:21.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T23:59:36.807" Score="5" ViewCount="23596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a citroen C3 and much to my horror was unable to turn the key in the ignition this evening. Had to wait about 10 minutes until it finally gave way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else experienced a similar problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an electrical problem, or is there something wrong with the key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7750" LastActivityDate="2018-09-08T04:49:19.557" Title="Unable to start engine - unable to unlock ignition key Citroen C3" Tags="|ignition|key|citroen|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T00:05:17.787" Score="9" ViewCount="2966" Body="&lt;p&gt;The state of California is expected to be hit by a large storm in the coming days and there are frequently clogged drains in my town. I have an electric vehicle that seemed to handle driving through large puddles during the last storm but I was curious if anyone could tell me what the potential hazards are of driving an EV through a large standing pool of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need to worry about getting water in the engine (I think) since there is no air intake. There are fans that cool the battery if it gets too hot but I don't think that will be a problem during this storm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I have a Ford Focus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7751" LastEditorUserId="7751" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T03:34:55.977" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T13:28:39.977" Title="Driving electric cars through large pools of water" Tags="|electrical|ford|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13477" CreationDate="2014-12-10T00:10:15.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Focus EV has two high voltage battery packs, one is in the rear cargo area and the other is located underneath the vehicle. I don't know if that is considered floor integrated but it isn't too different from what Tesla is doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7751" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T00:10:15.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2014-12-10T08:58:23.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery manufacturers make batteries to international standards, one of which was selected by VW as the battery for your vehicle. The problem you describe is specific to your vehicle, so a battery manufacturer would not be able to solve the problem as you are suggesting without violating the standard or creating a problem for the owner of some other vehicle that uses the same battery type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution that battery manufacturers have come up with for the problem you describe is a maintenance free battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T08:58:23.260" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2014-12-10T11:11:39.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is what was put into its design at the drawing board stage. Encapsulation and water proofing of components susceptable to being submerged in water being the main consideration. As an electric vehicle construction is usually decided by its weight, less weight means less drain on the battery means greater distance between charges, encapsulation would not be a consideration. So I would be reluctant to drive through puddles higher then the hubs of the wheel at any sort of speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T11:11:39.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13504" CreationDate="2014-12-10T11:21:47.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the car off and remove the key, make sure the steering is not turned to one side. If you leave the car with the wheels turned you may load up the steering lock as the steering geometry tries to straighten up. You are able to get round this in the circumstances you describe by 'rocking' the steering wheel to relieve the loading on the lock as you turn the key to unlock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T11:21:47.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13479" CreationDate="2014-12-10T11:34:27.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct way to charge a battery is to apply a charging current of around 1.5-2 amps to a maximum electrolyte specific gravity, then to fully discharge the battery at a very low 1 or 2 amps, then to re-charge the battery at a low amperage again, then discharge at a very low amps again. This process should be repeated until the electrolyte specific gravity is at its maximum over three one hourly readings. Having been discharged and left discharged though, active material will be lost and fall to the bottom of the battery case and the battery will never again reach its peak performance. It is more the case of replacing the battery when weighed up in the light of time and costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T11:34:27.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2014-12-10T13:51:38.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got it worked out. I hadn't realized there were pins sticking out of the bottom of the window into the lift plate - window had to be moved laterally (and pretty forcefully), not just up. A mechanic in my area took 5 minutes to come out and help me in his parking lot and figured it out. Props to Auto Doctor in Crofton, MD, for anyone in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the white plastic ovals on this photo are where the pins connected:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R49pB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R49pB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="861" LastEditorUserId="861" LastEditDate="2023-01-30T14:47:50.050" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T14:47:50.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:15:46.643" Score="6" ViewCount="4009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Pilot 2008 and using it to pull a tent trailer. The trailer is 2200Lb and is within specs for the Pilot. This is a variable 4 wheel drive transmision, this means I can change the amount of power that goes to the front or rear tires. Typically the Pilot runs with 60% to the front and 40% to the rear. There is a button I can press while on first or second gear (or reverse) which is called VTM-4 which locks the Variable Torque to 50%-50%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: I use it to climb a hill to get to my piece of land. The road is quite steep and rocky. Whether I use VTM-4 lock or not the results are the same. During the ascent, the alert indicator (exclamation mark) lights up and at the same time the transmision stops giving power to the wheels. This last for a second or 2, then the traction comes back and the light goes off. During the ascent, the light goes on and off a couple of times while the traction does the same thing. When I reach my destination, there is a burned or smoke smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite enervating as you are on a steep hill climbing with a 2200Lb trailer in the back and traction stops...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the Honda Pilot is not made to be used in those conditions. If that is the case, which car/suv would be my best option? I was looking at the Grand Cherokke but it seems to have a similar 4wd transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7754" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:14:00.613" Title="Honda Pilot 2008 4wd problem" Tags="|honda|4wd|pilot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13512" CreationDate="2014-12-10T15:09:58.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this is not &amp;quot;scientific data&amp;quot;, I did find some empirical data on the subject from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.piloteers.org/forums/2-general-discussions/32004-interesting-vtm-4-test-unexpected-results.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. The author talks about his experience with the Honda Pilot and its VTM-4 system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading about VTM-4, the way I understood it to work was this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal conditions, the VTM-4 system is FWD biased and transfers power/torque to the rear as needed. If you need extra traction then engaging VTM-4 Lock would lock the rear differential and send power to both rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I experienced today was quite different. I found a nice little hill with some sections that would get a vehicle crossed up (For anyone that doesn't know, getting crossed up basically means a pair of tires at opposite diagonal corners are compressed and firmly on the ground while the other pair of tires are drooped and possibly not even touching the ground. An open 4WD/AWD system would simply end up spinning the two wheels with the least traction and you'd go nowhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what happened? I started out with the system on full auto and started up, didn't make it too far. Hit VTM-4 Lock and only made it a couple more feet. I had my wife watch what the wheels were doing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Auto/No Lock - Only the front tire would spin, nothing going on in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VTM-4 Lock - The front tire at full droop and the rear tire at full droop would spin. The rear tire firmly planted on the ground did nothing and there was no forward progress. Turned off VTM-4 Lock, back to only the front wheel spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some reading, it sounds like the rear &amp;quot;lock&amp;quot; isn't a true mechanical lock but more like an aggressive limited-slip with clutches. That being the case, this situation and the results sort of make sense and I was likely just overpowering the &amp;quot;locked&amp;quot; clutches in the rear, however I was surprised that the rear tire wasn't spinning at all when in full-auto. What it ultimately felt like was that there's a center differential with clutches, splitting power between the front and rear but allowing slippage. Engaging VTM-4 Lock would lock the center diff to send equal power to both front and rear differentials but leaving the rear differential unlocked, performing like a part-time 4WD system with open differentials front and rear. If VTM-4 not locked was sending power to the rear I wasn't seeing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, it appears your VTM-4 system is working as others have seen it work. I think you are over stressing the system with your hill climb and extra load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly suggest you get a vehicle with a higher towing capacity, like a truck or large SUV which can handle this better. If the information I'm seeing is correct, the towing capacity is 4,400 lbs. When you look at this number, it's not only the weight of the trailer, but the weight of all equipment, fuel, and people you are carrying as well. The trailer may weigh 2,200 lbs, but with the addition of two grown adults (300-450lbs total - throw in kids it's even more), equipment (500-700lbs), fuel (~100lbs), etc, etc, etc. This adds up quick where you can quickly max out your vehicles capacity. Now, throw in that you are going up a hill (steep, as you said) and you have a further burden on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to tell you &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; vehicle to get, as my opinions would quickly get in the road. What I will tell you is to get away from an AWD vehicle and get a 4WD vehicle. You might now ask, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;What's the difference?&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; ... The difference is, the AWD system is full time on, while the 4WD system is selectable. The big thing you are looking for with a 4WD system is the availability of a low range. By utilizing a low range, you effectively double (depending on the system, this will vary ... I'm using &amp;quot;double&amp;quot; generically) the amount of torque your engine is putting to the ground, leveraging mechanical advantage to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you need to make sure the vehicle has is a true locking differential. It does not sound like your Honda has one. If you are curious, do a test as described in the excerpt I provided. It is a very good suggestion without putting undue stress on the vehicle your are driving. Ford, GM, Dodge, and Toyota (to name a few) all utilize this type of differential in their trucks. It will be mentioned on their window sticker if new, or if used, you can easily have the VIN run to see what options were installed on the vehicle when new (take the VIN to the corresponding manufacturer's parts department ... they can pull this information for you - if they are willing. I said &amp;quot;can&amp;quot; ... doesn't meant they will, lol.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing I'd look for is to ensure the vehicle is a true rear-wheel drive. Most large trucks/SUV's are setup this way. Rear-wheel drive is going to be a lot more effective while towing a vehicle than front wheel drive. This is because the weight of the trailer is providing weight over the main drive axle, which means you'll have better traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing which I would tell you to do if not doing so already, is your driving technique. Ensure you are not &amp;quot;balls-to-the-walls&amp;quot; when going up the hill. You are again, just causing undue stress on your vehicle. The slow approach will provide you more comfort on the way up, as well as make it easier on your vehicle. You are trying to avoid wheel slippage if at all possible, which I believe may be at the root of the issue to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T15:09:58.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:07:32.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions about engine cooling device used to cool engine coolant as it flows through. This includes questions about the repair and replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Radiator Image&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows a radiators placement within the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rpon3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rpon3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:36:15.180" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:36:15.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:07:32.113" Score="0" Body="A radiator is a heat transfer device that allows air to pass freely over fines that conduct heat from liquid circulated within an engine to cool it." OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:36:15.180" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:36:15.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:09:23.973" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Isuzu truck which has just had the clutch replaced.  It has a clutchless manual transmission which has not been working since the replacement of the clutch.  There is a light in the dash hsa/cfs which is on and I can't switch it off, can you offer any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7756" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:23:53.420" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:23:53.420" Title="Clutchless manual transmission" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:15:46.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions about the wiring of a car(the apparatus that connects electrical circuits).  This includes the repair of wires and replacement for new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="6237" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T10:46:53.253" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T10:46:53.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:15:46.857" Score="0" Body="For questions about the wiring of a car(apparatus that connects electrical circuits)." OwnerUserId="6237" LastEditorUserId="6237" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T10:46:45.933" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T10:46:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4101" CreationDate="2014-12-11T00:39:52.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed in Australia at least, when a bike gets a bent frame from an accident, it usually turns into a statutory write off.  Meaning, the insurance company must pay the policy out, and the bike is never allowed to be ridden on the road again, not matter what repairs are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably a rule that came in from back yard operators doing dodgy fix ups on really broken bikes and then getting mates to pass the safety cert?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way.  Not sure what you're local laws are, but worth checking to see if you're allowed to re-register a bike thats been in an accident like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like the other suggestion of maybe grabbing a second hand frame (in good order), or buying another Tenere (same model) with a busted engine, and pilfering the parts you need from that.  Sell the left overs, if you can be bothered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T00:39:52.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13440" CreationDate="2014-12-11T03:57:46.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a few things cause the same problem. There is a relay for the starter on the fender well. Some auto parts stores refer to it as a solenoid. When it gets warn sometimes it will drag a little and not disengage all the way. If that happens you will have electrical problems like gauges in dash acting weird, sometimes you will have problems with charging.  Also if the bushings in your starter is shot it will cause it to bind not letting it kick back. If the problem is in your ignition you will be able to tell because when you start the vehicle and then leave of the ignition it should come back a little. If it doesn't then it is sticking. I have had all the things I mentioned above cause the same problem. I would start with the cheapest first if you don't want to take it to a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T03:57:46.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13425" CreationDate="2014-12-11T09:51:00.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer was that t&lt;strong&gt;he battery was bad&lt;/strong&gt;. Apparently it was a cheap battery and &lt;strong&gt;the failed alternator drained it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it had been drained, it would no longer hold a charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the batter with a new, good-quality (VW) battery fixed the problem entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One clue was that when I jumpstarted the car, &lt;strong&gt;all the symptoms went away&lt;/strong&gt; -- no blinking lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7694" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T09:51:00.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13516" CreationDate="2014-12-11T11:22:10.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle has a standard clutch. The gear shifting is done by electronic controls and an ECU. You need to scan the transmission components for any faults, and perhaps to re-set the system if the battery was disconnected, as it should have been, during the replacement of the clutch. If the replacement was done for you then returning it to the mechanic would be your first option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T11:22:10.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T13:56:23.950" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found in different trucks and buses, etc.... An &quot;H&quot; button which, when pressed, activates a braking system. This system is only available when the vehicle is immobilized.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Which brakes are activated? How does it work? Why do they stay on even if the button is deactivated and until the driver makes an action to restart motion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try to search for this I continuously get unrelated answers about how brakes work. I just want to know about that subsystem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7757" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T16:31:23.737" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T16:57:24.450" Title="Truck: &quot;H&quot; brake button" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14522" CreationDate="2014-12-11T16:57:24.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That'd be the handbrake (also known as parking brake or emergency brake), in lieu of a traditional cable-operated brake - the latter can't be used on an air-braked vehicle such as a truck or bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a valve somewhere, operated by that button, that locks the brakes on when that button is pressed - usually using a spring to apply the brake and air pressure to release it again. When the driver goes to restart the vehicle, the valve will be closed again allowing the air pressure to release the brakes. This also acts as a safety mechanism, as if the air pressure is suddenly lost (e.g. by the trailer breaking free), the spring will re-apply the brake and stop the vehicle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T16:57:24.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T17:56:54.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2012 Nissan from a Nissan dealership, and it's still covered under the original manufacturer warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't come with cruise control, and now I'm looking at getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rostra cruise control&lt;/a&gt; installed by a local garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will installing an after-market cruise-control system void the manufacturer's warranty on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7760" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:19:13.143" Title="Will I void the manufacturer warranty on a 2012 Nissan if get aftermarket cruise-control installed?" Tags="|cruise-control|warranty|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14653" CreationDate="2014-12-11T18:39:19.683" Score="4" ViewCount="12377" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2: I rescanned, looking at the correct data, and found the rear O2 sensor was definitely bouncing up and down with the forward sensor's lambda reading.  Since I have looked for leaks and couldn't find any, I decided to just go for a new catalytic converter.  I have read that you can use propane to create a rich condition and a vacuum leak to force a lean condition, and this is a more thorough test to make sure your sensors are working properly, but the rear O2 sensor moving with the forward, and not having any leaks, I feel confident enough that this really is a bad cat.  I'm going to replace it myself, and I'll make sure to post the results.  I do wish I knew more about why the cat went bad, as I understand there may be an underlying problem, and even if a new cat fixes the code, it may go bad quickly due to the underlying issue.  But then, the car has 170000 miles, so it's surpassed its life expectancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: the red/blue plots are Fuel/Air Commanded Equivalence Ratio.  I think I need to put this on hold and get more info, but I don't know how...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Prius is throwing a P0420 code (catalytic converter).&#xA;I just got a scan tool that works on my phone, and got the two plots below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first picture, I was coasting (which shuts the engine off) then I hit the throttle, momentarily, then coasted again.  I'm noticing that when the engine goes off and starts up again (green upper-left RPM plot), the o2 sensor readings (big plot with red upstream and blue downstream) go nuts.  Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second picture, I took my foot off the throttle, let the RPMs drop (but the engine didn't stop) and then hit the throttle.  You can see that under normal conditions the o2 sensor is fine (red wobbles up and down, blue is mostly constant), but then I hit the throttle (RPM's pick way up) and the readings of the o2 sensors move quite drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catalytic converter code was cleared and the test passed (an Evap test is still pending) but I've cleared the code many times, no luck.  I have tried the magic bottle of cat cleaner, followed the instructions closely, but it didn't help.  Now that I can read codes and plot sensors, I'm hoping to diagnose the problem instead of just throwing stuff at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, everything I read says o2 sensors operate around .7 volt, but mine seem to center around 1V.  Is my car just different?  Could it be the Dash Command software not interpreting the data properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can add any additional test conditions anyone asks for in the comments, and would like to say thanks in advance, I know how smart and talented this community is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfVmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;O2 Sensors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9soPI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;o2 Sensors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4499" LastEditorUserId="4499" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T13:27:32.580" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T21:14:49.933" Title="P0420 in a Prius" Tags="|obd-ii|o2-sensor|p0420|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14524" CreationDate="2014-12-11T23:16:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a cruise control should not affect your warranty. Even if it did, it would possibly only affect the part of the warranty the part touches. What I mean by that is, for instance, if you installed an aftermarket steering wheel, it would probably void the warranty on the air bag system because the air bag system is associated with the stock steering wheel. (This is just something I'm throwing out there, but hopefully you get the idea.) It wouldn't void the warranty on the entire vehicle. As for the Rostra CC, it appears it doesn't replace anything, nor should there be any hacking of the stock wiring harness, so there should be no worry about voiding the warranty. A key question you can ask yourself is, if you install it, can it be removed without any show of damage to the vehicle (do you have to damage any part of the vehicle to get it installed)? If the answer is yes, you should have no worries. The Rostra appears to fall into that category. (And before someone says, &quot;Well you could put a cam shaft in a car and take it back out and leave it like it was&quot; ... I would say to you, no you cannot. There are a huge amount of tell tale signs someone has been intrusive on an engine, such as disrupted seals, cleanliness/dirt removal in certain areas, etc. It is usually &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; easy to tell if an engine has been opened up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T23:16:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14525" CreationDate="2014-12-11T23:37:58.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering why you aren't considering the downstream O2 sensor as being the culprit? If it is sending back erroneous information back to the computer, the computer might think the cat is bad. The O2 sensor can be bad (or on the way out) and never throw a code. Something an O2 will do over time while going bad is get what is called &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt;. Normally, when an O2 sensor is reading correctly, it's graph would be all over the place. It is quickly going up and down. When it gets lazy, this motion (if you want to call it that) slows down. It doesn't adjust as quickly to the amount of oxygen which is in the exhaust stream. And, while it is being lazy, it is still within tolerance, so doesn't throw a code. This erroneous information could be read by the computer as a bad catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T23:37:58.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24866" CreationDate="2014-12-12T01:19:29.807" Score="10" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sanded and filled a dent in my cars plastic/foam bumper, applied primer and factory matched auto paint. This worked and look fine for about 6 months. Today I noticed the paint around where the filler is is beginning to crack and peel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this or what I did wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4wjk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T00:08:27.417" Title="Paint peeling around body filled area 6 months on" Tags="|paint|body|body-work|body-filler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14524" CreationDate="2014-12-12T09:55:01.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Nissan was built, tested and sold as an entity. Any changes to a vehicle would not be accepted by most, if not all, vehicle manufactures which they do not have any control or imput to and would void the warranty. Unless you know they are manufacturer approved fitments, you should check with the manufacturer, do not have them fitted. There have been court cases here in the UK where innocuous extras have been fitted, followed by a breakdown of the vehicle in some other area of its construction, and exclusion from warranty has been upheld. In Europe we have what is know as 'Block Exemption' in motor vehicle repair. A person with recognised formal qualifications in motor vehicle repair, using original manufacturers replacement parts - oils - greases - and anything else used - would not invalidate the vehicles warranty in servicing the vehicle. But if any of these requirements are not satisfied the warranty would not be void. &lt;em&gt;Fit an after market oil filter, have trouble with the engine, no warranty.&lt;/em&gt; There are bound to be similar laws in the USA as Europe usually follows the USA after a while when it comes to motor vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T09:55:01.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14525" CreationDate="2014-12-12T10:12:57.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prius has an exhaust system unique to the Prius. As it is a hybrid the engine does not operate continuously, and so the cat has to be a special case in retaining its temperature to 'light-off'. Exhaust vacuum valves and controls require servicing; heat adsorbers have to be working; air/fuel ratio sensors are used as against a straight forward O2 sensor and thier controls operarate on very small electrical changes; add in the electronic controls. Your vehicle would need to be scanned by an OEM Toyota scanner, or compatable before condemming any components. Also an OEM scanner will be able to carry out a 'Maintenance Reset' which could eliminate any 'ghost faults' caused by weather or some sort of adverse operation. Your codes are telling you what the engine ECU thinks is happening but not actually why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T10:12:57.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14536" CreationDate="2014-12-12T13:41:34.287" Score="7" ViewCount="16326" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've got an odd problem for a 2004 Toyota Echo. The second gear, sometimes not always, is hard to engage. If I be real gentle, and just put a bit of pressure, it would slip in. I could also be a bit rougher and get it into second. It's most pronounced when going from 3rd to second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd, 4th and 5th doesn't have the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the shifter, cable, cable bushing has been replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from synchros, what else could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:23:00.567" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:23:00.567" Title="Sometimes my second gear is rough to engage. What could be wrong?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14535" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:56:06.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second gear is usually the first of the gears to start to fail because it is the most used gear of the set. The hub and clutch, baulk ring, and gear cone wear and cause the difficult engagement. The gearbox requires an overhaul to remedy the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T16:56:06.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14538" CreationDate="2014-12-12T19:59:28.490" Score="2" ViewCount="15357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 VW Jetta Stuck in Park.  When I turn it on, press the brake, and press the shifter button it doesn't move.  How do I get it out of park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake light and dash indicator do toggle (lights on / dash indicator goes off) when I press the brake, so it's not the brake sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2141" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T00:53:18.657" Title="2010 VW Stuck in Park" Tags="|transmission|vw|automatic-transmission|parking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2014-12-13T11:43:04.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the centre console trim, surrounding the gearlever, you will find a a solonoid that engages a pin into the gearlever linkage. Release or remove this to release the gearlever. You will then need to determine the exact fault of this detent and repair it to ensure future safe starting. Possible faulty solonoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T11:43:04.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2014-12-13T11:54:07.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be as Allan stated with a bad solenoid, but could also be a mechanical problem with the shifter itself. If you are pressing the button (after pressing the brakes) to shift and it does not allow you to rotate the gear shifter from park, the rod from the button to the latching mechanism or the latching mechanism itself may be fouled. A fix could be as easy as lubricating the latching mechanism, or it might be as extensive as replacing the entire shifter assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T11:54:07.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-13T13:03:54.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions which should be tagged &quot;old-cars&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything concerning oldtimers or youngtimers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything about cars being built for multiple decades without much modification, e.g. including recent Brasilian VW Transporters which are based on the 2nd generation of the VW Transporter, recent Hindustan Ambassadors which are based on Morris Minor from the '50s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything concerning cars which are officially registered as Oldtimer, e.g. Germany-registered cars with an &quot;H&quot; suffix or &quot;07&quot; prefix on the number-plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything concerning cars without any electronics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything concerning used cars whose prices are already rising again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions which should not be tagged &quot;old-cars&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything concerning cars which have first being built less than 10 to 15 years ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VW Golf 1 ('70s + '80s) or VW Golf 2 ('80s + '90s) are surely on-topic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VW Golf 5 or VW Golf 6 are off-topic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VW Golf 3 ('90s) maybe on-topic nowadays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7748" LastEditorUserId="7748" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:40:46.717" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:40:46.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-13T13:03:54.847" Score="0" Body="Old cars cover oldtimers as well as youngtimers, i.e. nearly all cars without electronics, or cars that have been designed and built first multiple decades ago (but maybe still being built somewhere around the globe)." OwnerUserId="7748" LastEditorUserId="7748" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:39:35.113" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:39:35.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14542" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-13T15:08:23.393" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T15:08:23.393" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T15:08:23.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14543" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-13T15:08:23.393" Score="0" Body="Spare tires or emergency wheels, also some times called &quot;the fifth wheel&quot;, are a long-time common way to be prepared for a flat tire or wheel damage." OwnerUserId="7748" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T15:58:33.723" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T15:58:33.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14549" CreationDate="2014-12-13T16:18:06.957" Score="13" ViewCount="105590" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seemed to be most relevant site to ask my question. I am planning to purchase a new car and my shortlisted car has 4 speed automatic and 1.6 litre engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that worries me is that it has 4 speed instead of 5 speed which is very common in similar cars here, and for some reasons I cannot go for the manual, and the top spec 7 speed 1.8 litre model is outside my budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like everything about the car except the point in question. So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it limit top speed on motorway? (limit here is mostly 120 or 140 km/h) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it limit acceleration, hamper overtaking etc? My search revealed that the 1.3 litre 4 speed automatic version is underpowered even within the city, but I have driven the 5 speed manual one and it was OK. Is it because of the smaller engine or the 4 speed transmission? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other limitations or issues I may have missed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My use is almost entirely within the city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completing the question. The car I am considering is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota-indus.com/altis-1-6/&quot;&gt;Toyota Corolla Altis 1.6&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the alternate option is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pakwheels.com/new-cars/honda/city/i-vtec-prosmatec/specifications/&quot;&gt;Honda City Prosmatec&lt;/a&gt; (Honda's local website is not opening but the specs here are accurate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if this is the reason to go for the alternate, because except the doubt I have, I like everything about my primary choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7771" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:32:27.920" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:32:27.920" Title="What disadvantages a car with 4-speed transmission have compared to 5, 6 or 7 speed with similar engine?" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-13T19:32:17.740" Score="3" ViewCount="3584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a starting problem with my 1999 Honda accord, 1 in every 50 starts for example the car will turn over but fails to start, I repeatedly turn the key then the crank slows down but still doesn't fire. it happened today at about 12 o clock gone out now and its started first time any ideas what this could be? thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-14T01:35:06.273" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:56:06.260" Title="honda accord sometimes wont start" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-13T20:08:17.090" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Honda Odyssey with two existing ignition keys. They are both transponder (chip) keys. I would like to purchase a third spare transponder key, have it cut, and self program it. Many makes allow you to self program a third key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to self program a third transponder key for a 2009 Honda Odyssey? If so, how would you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7773" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T15:28:19.797" Title="Self Program Third (Spare) 2009 Honda Odyssey EX" Tags="|honda|key|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14544" CreationDate="2014-12-13T23:42:39.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a car that has 4, 5, 6 and 7 gear options, if all else is the same, then your top speed will be the same; all that would change would be your acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each gear you have a range where power is at it's highest. Below this gear speed your power is low (have you ever tried to accelerate in 5th from stationary?) And above it you hit the speed limitations of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So having more gears means you can spend more time in the power band - so acceleration efficiency is improved, however this may be offset by the time it takes to change between gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, large trucks may have 12 gears - they need the power to accelerate heavy loads. But as the gear ratios are so close it takes a long time to get up to the top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top speed itself has nothing to do with the number of gears. All that is important for the top speed is the power and max speed of the engine and the gear ratio of your top gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for question 1 - No&#xA;Question 2 - probably the engine size/power&#xA;Question 3 - far too broad a question to cover here. I'd suggest removing that one (you should only ask one question at a time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T23:42:39.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14544" CreationDate="2014-12-14T01:34:18.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main reasons auto manufacturers have started putting more gears into their cars: acceleration and gas mileage. The main purpose of it is to keep the engine in its &lt;em&gt;torque&lt;/em&gt; band. This is the area where the engine is working at its most efficient (improved gas mileage) and since it doesn't have to build back up to its torque band after a shift (it's already there), it accelerates faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within reason, the top gearing for most automatic overdrive transmissions are going to be pretty much the same (within reason). This means the top speed is going to be about the same. The top end power is what is going to limit you, all other things being equal ... this pretty much eliminates the transmission as the deciding factor when looking at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T01:34:18.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T03:27:20.780" Score="2" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;So! This starts with a fun story. I had a flat battery and my friend who isn't really a techie/mechie sort of person came to lend me a hand, I had leads and he had a car, his car has a red coloured lead on the NEGATIVE terminal, so he made the mistake of reversing the polarity, blowing the stereo fuse and who knows what else in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've removed the stereo and am going to replace that fuse. I've checked the fuses in the side panel reasonably well and they are all fine, the only thing not working is the remote fob which isn't the end of the world, however I also have one of the not so good lights on the dash lit up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vwforum.com/forums/f15/2002-jetta-dash-lights-42589/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vwforum.com/forums/f15/2002-jetta-dash-lights-42589/&lt;/a&gt; - the one with the warning and arrow going round it. I'd prefer not to take it to a mechanics for a fuse replacement, if that is actually what is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any advice on tracking down the fuse/module for this would be amazing or if you know that I've destroyed something that would be great to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7775" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T13:28:18.960" Title="Replacing remote lock fuse on 2001 Jetta/Bora VW" Tags="|locks|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14544" CreationDate="2014-12-14T11:49:04.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time and time again when improvements are introduced, even minor changes to a vehicles spec, the ultimate end today is fuel consumption. Lower fuel consumption means lower emmissions. When you have a vehicle with say 7 speeds, you will find the engine RPM at 70 MPH on the motorway is down to around 1500 RPM. This slower engine speed allows the engine controls to fully optimise power, fuel consumption and the all important emmissions. The slower engine speed gives the designer of the engine more time per revolution to implement a greater degree of control. They are counting in milli-seconds today. A vehicles performance, ie acceleration, is increasingly becoming irrelevant in todays cities. In London(UK) a ten mile journey by car during a working day will take at least an hour. A car for primarily city use today would be better gauged by cost of ownership, annual tax band, insurance band and projected maintenance costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T11:49:04.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14551" CreationDate="2014-12-14T12:29:29.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This a warning for the engines immobiliser. &lt;em&gt;Re-programme the keys: With a key switch the ignition on, insert key to be programmed into the drivers door and manually lock the vehicle, press the lock button once, wait a couple of seconds and press the lock button once again. The vehicles horn should beep to let you know the key has been programmed. Repeat for any other keys, up to four.&lt;/em&gt; If your light remains on after a successful reprogramming of the keys, then your ECU will need to be re-set using a VW compatable diagnostic scanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T12:29:29.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14546" CreationDate="2014-12-14T12:36:49.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, the Honda Odyssey(european Shuttle) requires diagnsotic equipment to programme keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T12:36:49.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14545" CreationDate="2014-12-14T12:50:42.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An intermittant like you have described can be an absolute nightmare to track down. A visual inspection of the engine management system for loom damage or corrosion, contamination or oiling of plugs. You can connect a data logger onto the vehicle to record any mis-function when it does not start. A OEM scanner may also reveal the fault. Main suspects for me would be crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, or engine management fuses or relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T12:50:42.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14561" CreationDate="2014-12-14T17:08:13.830" Score="8" ViewCount="17949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an &quot;old&quot; 1996 Dodge Dakota. When I turn left in a tight circle, I hear a pop or a click on the front-right side of the vehicle. I was told by the previous owner that it's the CV joint. Sure enough, I was under the car yesterday replacing the idler arm and saw grease sprayed all over the place around the CV joint near the wheel. I didn't inspect it much but apparently the boot is ripped somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What makes the joint click? I did a little research online and someone said it's when the grease around the joint goes away and the bearings inside move around. And that when you turn hard, they &quot;drop&quot; and that's the pop you hear. Seems like it's a bit of a stretch that I could hear bearings drop over the noise of the engine. So what causes the clicking noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:13:04.547" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:49:13.160" Title="What makes a CV Joint make a popping or clicking sound?" Tags="|dodge|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T17:44:01.690" Score="2" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard this sound before, it made the sound whether i used my brakes or not, it only stopped when i turned right. anyone have any idea what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7779" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:17:04.620" Title="i heard a loud whistling/squeeling noise coming from the front tires of my 2004 subaru outback AWD." Tags="|subaru|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14559" CreationDate="2014-12-14T18:45:39.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ball bearings are involved, but the noise isn't because they are dropping. What happens is when the boot splits, the grease starts oozing out (less lubricant) and dirt gets in causing wear. One of the jobs of grease is to take up excess slack in the joint (not that there is much in the first place when it's not worn out). This will quiet any noises out of the joint. If it wasn't there, you'd hear the clicking, but it would be very soft. Now, throw in some dirt/grime and the joint will start wearing faster, creating slop where there wasn't any before. When the wheel is straight, the ball bearings don't move all that much. When the wheel is turned, the ball bearings move quite a bit. When it isn't worn out and the grease is in there, the noise is very much softened and you don't hear it. When it is worn out, the ball bearings will move to a point, then give way. In this process it &quot;pops&quot; to the end of it's travel, causing the popping noise you are talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CV joint will last quite a long time. Most of them die under the circumstances you are describing with the loss of lubricant and protection of the boot from the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T18:45:39.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14563" CreationDate="2014-12-14T19:56:52.597" Score="3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgWR2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That clear white line there is a paint scraped on the car. I am a new car owner and I am not sure if I can repair that by myself or I need go find a car mechanic, if I can repair it by myself, what sort of stuff I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7781" LastEditorUserId="7746" LastEditDate="2014-12-14T23:53:42.037" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T23:53:42.037" Title="Can a scrape like this be repaired by myself or do I need to take it to a car mechanic?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14562" CreationDate="2014-12-14T22:26:58.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Give it a try.  You probably won't make it worse.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real questions here is whether you are looking at a mark that was left on the surface of your car's paint somehow.  An easy way to check is to just run your finger nail across the mark: if you nail catches on the outside move in, the paint is on the surface.  If it catches inside the mark moving out, your paint was gouged and something was left in the scrape.  The first is better: if your paint is still healthy, you can eventually remove the extra gunk (given enough patience, elbow grease and time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is always the same: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8766/57&quot;&gt;purchase some cleaner wax and give it a try&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purchase some cleaner wax AKA a&#xA;  combination of car wax and mild abrasives (e.g., Zymol which works&#xA;  pretty well and smells nice in the process...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash the area with nice sudsy dish soap. This will strip off any waxes&#xA;  that are currently on that body panel. You want easy access to the&#xA;  accidental paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, seriously: wash the panel really well. You don't have to do the&#xA;  whole car, just the panel of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry it well: again, you're trying to prevent any barriers between your&#xA;  upcoming efforts and the bad paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply the cleaner wax to a target area according to instructions.&#xA;  Don't get aggressive at this point: you're trying to lift a little of&#xA;  the mark, not scratch or haze the surrounding area. I usually use an&#xA;  all-cotton cloth with cross-hatch motions with a bias towards vertical&#xA;  passes on side panels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, following instructions, buff the area when the wax dries / gets&#xA;  hazy. See above note for a reminder that impatience and / or direct&#xA;  sunlight can add to your misery factor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect: better? Good enough? If not, return to step 5. Again,&#xA;  patience is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If all is well, rewax the entire door panel that you stripped with the&#xA;  dish soap above. Nice cleaner wax will do a swell job for the larger&#xA;  panel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Show the tolerant spouse the fruits of your labors. Receive accolades.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not work.  In fact, it almost certainly won't get rid of all of the mark in one pass.  Worst case, you've made that part of your car really clean.  You can always take the car to a body shop and ask for an estimate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T22:26:58.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14560" CreationDate="2014-12-14T22:35:26.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a situation like this many years ago: my 87 Mustang would make squeaking brake disk noises from one of the front wheels when the wheels were very close to straight ahead.  When I turned the steering wheel, the noise would sometimes stop.  This was eventually diagnosed as a brake disk that was very slightly warped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car is getting older now (full disclosure: my car is the same age) so I'd be thinking about at the disks and the calipers.  If you can tell which side it's happening on, that would be a good start.  Things you could check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warped rotors (which could cause the brake pad to contact the rotor even with your foot off the pedal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake caliper not opening all the way (same problem: the pad could still be touching ever so slightly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foreign material (e.g., something got between the pad and the rotor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T22:35:26.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T01:23:33.820" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT.  There is a mild vibration in the front end when the suspension is compressed and I'm accelerating.  If I let off the accelerator, it all goes away.  I've rotated the tires and it's still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7783" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:16:47.567" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:16:47.567" Title="Bad vibration in my car" Tags="|pontiac|vibration|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T01:37:59.427" Score="9" ViewCount="3900" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carburetor on my 2005 Honda Shadow Aero (VT750C) had a bad leak and flooded the air cleaner assembly with gasoline.  The air filter was completely soaked with gas, so I let it air dry.  Is my filter ruined, or is it okay now that it's dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T14:51:03.930" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T10:12:55.210" Title="Does gasoline ruin an air filter?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14570" CreationDate="2014-12-15T01:54:51.007" Score="6" ViewCount="10474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did an oil change on my 1995 Nissan Altima, and noticed that the gasket on my dipstick does not make a seal inside the dipstick tube.  The inside diameter of the tube is maybe 3/32 of an inch larger than the dipstick gasket. I don't know if this is how the car came or if this is an aftermarket dipstick.  The gasket is made of rubber and appears to be in good condition.  It's been this way for at least 6,000 miles, as that's when I last had the oil changed.  Though, for all I know, it could have been this way for all of its 145,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 20 year old car and, accordingly, it has some issues.  The idle occasionally fluctuates, and the exhaust smells a little rich.  Overall, though, it runs good. Is the non-sealing dipstick a big problem?  Should I expect significant improvement or extended engine life if I manage to find a good replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T10:36:48.807" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T10:36:48.807" Title="Is it important that the gasket on the dipstick make a seal against the dipstick tube?" Tags="|engine|nissan|oil-change|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14568" CreationDate="2014-12-15T02:30:40.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a huge deal. The biggest thing you'd be looking for is if there is leakage from there. It's not going to be causing any running issues or any such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest thing would be if the stick was fitting deeper into the hole and giving you a false reading as far as oil level. If it's too low in the hole, it would appear you'd have more oil than you actually do. Not that it would be off by a huge amount, maybe a couple of ounces. Finding a new replacement wouldn't be a bad thing, but it's not going to affect how the engine runs or its longevity one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:36:55.400" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:36:55.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T03:22:56.253" Score="6" ViewCount="51208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying my first time to flush the power steering fluid on my 2003 Infinity Q45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the procedure I have followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect return hose to the power steering fluid tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drain power steering fluid from tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refill tank with new power steering fluid. I use AMSOIL ATFQT. It is recommended on their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn steering wheel very fast and lightly touch each stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refill tank as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop when clean fluid comes out of return hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem I made was one time I emptied the tank on accident after turning the wheel too many times, so I just refilled and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I started the car and the pump makes a lot of noise, so I turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two problem I made was that now a bunch of bubbly ATF is coming out of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I also notice in the bottom of the manual it states to bleed the system using this procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn wheel back and forth quickly and lightly touch each stop, watching fluid level. So I keep track and the fluid level does drop lower than the tank cap can measure, so I put more fluid in until it is in the cold range and not lowering any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turn the engine on and the pump makes a bunch of noise. I turn the engine off and the tank is overflowing again with bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some time the bubbles go away and the oil returns to prvious level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if Amsoil recommends the wrong fluid or if I am doing something wrong or maybe I break something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T19:10:44.623" Title="I changed power steering fluid and it keeps making noise and is bubbles" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13158" CreationDate="2014-12-15T06:49:43.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your 2006 Civic is anything like mine, there is a section in your owner's manual entitled &quot;Towing a trailer&quot; which should answer your first question.  In mine it says to use D on level roads and D3 in hilly terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be wise to read that section carefully and completely as it contains many essential safety instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, in mine it says &lt;strong&gt;the maximum weight for the trailer and its contents is 450 kg.&lt;/strong&gt;  I hope you have a really small trailer in mind.  You might get away with a pod-type &quot;sport trailer&quot; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Sport-Trailer-Rental/ST/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; but even that weighs 250 kg empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T06:49:43.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2014-12-15T09:25:18.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was just a normal paper filter it is fine. If it is a re-usable washable filter then then I would suggest a wash and oiling procedure according to the manufacturer instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T09:25:18.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14571" CreationDate="2014-12-15T10:51:57.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the first things to consider is the aeration of fluid. A better way to 'bleed' the system is to fill the reservoir to its full mark, and allow the engine to idle. Top up the fluid as it drops in level. When the fluid level stabilises, SLOWLY turn the steering wheel lock to lock, topping up any fluid drop if it drops. The pump noises you are hearing, assuming they were not there before you started the flush, is air trapped in the system. Slow operaration is the key until the flush is completed, fast and furious operation during the flush only goes to aerate the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T10:51:57.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14568" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:00:04.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is designed (early) pre-OBD, so it will not affect the vehicle operation to any great extent, maybe a minor oil seepage. Later vehicles monitoring the air imput to the engine, ie OBD, the dipstick becomes important so it does not leak air. With OBD, a leaking dipstick seal would cause a mis-reading from the MAF, via the PCV, and cause rich running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:00:04.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:06:27.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last vehicle in the USA to use a carb was the Susuki Jimmy in 1993. Your air filter element is bonded together with petro-chemical adhesives, and a lot of filters have a petro-chemical treatment to enhance thier performance. Soaking the filter in petrol can only be detrimental to the filter. Your best bet is to change the filter to avoid any possibility of it breaking pieces off and causing problems in the manifold or throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:06:27.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14566" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:11:00.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you accelerate a vehicle there is a weight transfer from the front to the rear. This means the front suspension will lose its loading and extend its springs. You need to have your front end inspected, paying particular attention to the drive shaft and hub bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:11:00.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14560" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:17:04.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worn pads. Pads worn down to the metal would cause your symptoms. Have your vehicle checked over for this noise, but expect to have the pads and rotors changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:17:04.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14559" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:25:49.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking noise you describe is almost certainly down to the CVJ. As they wear they give out this distinctive clicking on turns and load. As the CV joint is part of the hub, steering, and brakes assembly and can effect the operation of them, the best thing to do is change the delinguent joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:25:49.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14581" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:55:20.700" Score="1" ViewCount="76772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rang a few garages but none offer to remove rust from brake calipers, a lot of people say it is going to rust around there a bit anyway but I wanted to make them look shiny new for when I give my car as a gift to a relative. The rotor is nice and clean but I just need to get the brake caliper outside unit clean, I don't want to take the wheel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who can do this kind of job? Is there a brush or product I can buy to clean them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T09:23:24.207" Title="Best way to remove rust from brake calipers without removing wheel" Tags="|wheels|brake-rotor|cleaning|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14580" CreationDate="2014-12-15T12:03:24.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to look nice/new/fresh/exciting, you will not be able to get it this way without removing the wheel. There is just no way of completely cleaning/coating the caliper without removing the wheel. Your best bet to get them cleaned up is to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the caliper from it's mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the pads (keeping them in positional order for proper replacement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a wire brush to it to knock as much of the rust off as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow the caliper clean of debris with some high pressure air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mask any areas of the caliper/car/rotor/whatever, so as to avoid overspray on these areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the caliper with hi-temp primer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow to dry to tacky (probably about 10 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the caliper with your color choice of hi-temp paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until completely dry, then re-assemble&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it comes down to is you can either have a good looking caliper, or a half-arsed job - it's up to you. Without taking the wheel off of the vehicle, you WILL have the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are actually talking about the rotors and not the calipers (or both), your best bet is to replace the old rotors with ones which are zinc coated. This will maintain a nice appearance in the non-wear areas for a long time to come. This still entails removing the wheel, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T12:03:24.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T12:43:45.427" Score="4" ViewCount="31394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to start an automatic car whilst in drive?  If it does start in drive, is this considered dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7787" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T04:43:17.927" Title="Can you start an automatic car whilst in drive?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14582" CreationDate="2014-12-15T12:55:38.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmission have what is called a &lt;em&gt;neutral safety switch&lt;/em&gt; (NSS). This ensures the engine should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; start while the transmission is in some other position besides Park or Neutral. It &lt;em&gt;should not&lt;/em&gt; start, so if it is, it means there is a fault with the NSS. Most occurrences I've heard of is where if the NSS is bad, it will not allow the engine so start in &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; selector position, though I don't see where your suggestion is out of the realm of possibility. Having the transmission engaged while starting could lead to loss of control of the vehicle (surprise at the vehicle moving when it shouldn't), so yes, it is considered dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T12:55:38.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T14:29:15.757" Score="3" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my truck in for service - 2006 Sierra Denali - due to an oil leak. They replaced the &quot;engine oil cooler lines to pan gasket&quot;. Within a couple of days had a major issue - coolant had gotten into my engine. This seems too coincidental - could the problem have been caused by the part replacement being installed incorrectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7789" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T18:17:12.220" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T20:37:12.233" Title="Coolant leaking into engine" Tags="|engine|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14599" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:55:06.503" Score="2" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did the Interceptor version of the Crown Victoria come with a different ECU/Tune than the consumer version of the Crown Victoria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7790" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T22:00:53.570" Title="Ford Crown Victoria Interceptor v. Consumer Crown Victoria" Tags="|ford|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T16:15:20.903" Score="1" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the owner of Hyundai Accent with a diesel engine. After very cold nights, the mornings are a nightmare. The engine starts fine but a light for check up is on most of time on board, and after gear 3 the engine dies. This is happening ONLY  after a very cold night; when temperature is +1 and over everything is ok...any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7791" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T22:01:23.340" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T12:00:21.023" Title="Hyundai Accent 2006 Hard Start Problems When Cold" Tags="|engine|hyundai|diesel|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T16:25:53.557" Score="6" ViewCount="18011" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, each type or size or whatever of tyres has its own set of numbers which presumably mean something. In the instance of my last car these numbers were 195/60/R15. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do each of these numbers represent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T23:44:27.313" Title="What do the numbers in 195/60/R15 mean?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-09T01:34:11.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14597" CreationDate="2014-12-15T16:27:58.200" Score="5" ViewCount="38717" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I got new tyres I was advised that as they were out of stock of the particular size I was after (195/60/R15)  and since they were part used tyres, I should be OK going with a slightly smaller tyre (185/60/R15) and that this would have &quot;no effect&quot; on anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since if it really had &quot;no effect&quot; on anything there would be no need for the differing tyre sizes, what are the side effects of using the wrong tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T07:52:23.047" Title="What are the side effects of using the wrong tires?" Tags="|tires|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14587" CreationDate="2014-12-15T16:39:23.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first number is the width of the tire. In this instance the tire is 195mm in width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second number is the percentage of the first number that makes up the height of the side wall of the tire. In this instance it is 60% of 195 which is 117mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final number is the diameter of the wheel that the tire fits on - in this instance the diameter is 15 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T23:44:27.313" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T23:44:27.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14596" CreationDate="2014-12-15T17:20:16.270" Score="4" ViewCount="11765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 5W30 for my 2007 Toyota Tacoma, which has about 120K mi.  Someone told me that I should put 10W30 because the vehicle is &quot;not very new&quot;.  Is that a good approach?  I've never had problems with 5W30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:35:56.720" Title="Should you put thicker oil in an older vehicle?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14598" CreationDate="2014-12-15T17:33:16.027" Score="3" ViewCount="6533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, if you can get your hands on a properly engineered splitter, what kind of handling difference would I see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for a splitter that's not just for show? Any effects on fuel economy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T21:33:06.577" Title="How much of a difference will a splitter / diffuser would be on a FWD car?" Tags="|body-work|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T17:42:48.147" Score="1" ViewCount="5703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 car. Recently, each time I hit the race paddle to accelerate, my RPM goes up, but not the actual speed of the car. Could anyone think of what's the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7792" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T18:18:43.627" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T03:15:48.170" Title="During accelerating rpm going up but not speed" Tags="|transmission|hyundai|shifting|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-01-09T15:18:09.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14584" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:15:12.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be what your engine oil cooler lines look like in the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKtQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil leak was coming from the block (middle of the vehicle), part #1 should be what they changed to stop the leak. This would be the most likely place for a leak to occur in this system. The lines going forward should carry oil to the radiator, where heat is exchanged. In order for their to get coolant into the engine from anywhere in the cooler loop, it would have to come from the radiator. If this is the case, the shop which worked on your vehicle should not have even been touching the forward area at the radiator to fix the leak. Realistically, if they just replaced the &quot;gasket&quot; as you said, there should be no real reason for their work to have caused the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:15:12.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14592" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:18:28.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume you have a standard shift transmission. If this is the case, your problem lies with a bad clutch. You'll need to get it replaced to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is an automatic transmission, you either have low fluid or your clutches/bands are fried, which would mean a replacement or rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T22:52:35.937" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T22:52:35.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14591" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:23:45.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A splitter is designed to force air around the car instead of allowing it to go under the car. This will affect high speed driving, but won't do much (if anything) for you at highway speeds. The splitters you see on cars on the road are there primarily for looks, not for function. If you are racing your car on the track, you might see some difference, where you'd actually see down for (or reduction of under vehicle pressure) added stability while going fast. This won't improve handling per se, but will improve control of the vehicle at these higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:23:45.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14590" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:35:56.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, if your vehicle is running good with 5w30, why would you want to change it? If it's the weight which is specified for it to run/behave properly, this is what you should be using. Engines are made with certain clearances to utilize certain oils. When you start messing with this, you are introducing a possible problem for your engine. Besides, your friend doesn't understand oil too well. 5w-30 and 10w-30 are both 30 weight oil. When they are warm, they will both flow the same. The difference is their cold viscosity rating. It would especially not do your engine any good to put the thicker winter weight oil into the vehicle (assuming you are gaining on winter where you are at). The thicker oil when cold will not flow as well as the 5w-30, which means your engine will remain oil starved longer at start up, causing it to achieve more wear. Not good all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:35:56.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14588" CreationDate="2014-12-15T19:22:17.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, your tire size of 195/60/R15 is broke down like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;195 - Tread width in millimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60  - Sidewall height as a percentage of tread width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R   - Radial tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 - Rim width in  inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say, in theory, because each tire manufacturer doesn't measure their tires the same as the next. This mainly has to do with tread width and tire height. The true measure of a tire is the &lt;em&gt;rotations per mile&lt;/em&gt; (RPM). If you get two tires with the same RPM, they will run down the road the same (for the most part) and not mess with your speedo/odometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, If you have a tire which is too tall, it will affect your car by showing a slow speedometer, will (theoretically) give you a higher top speed, will require more torque to get your vehicle moving, and if driving in the city will cause you worse gas mileage (due to requiring more torque). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tire is too short, it will affect your car by showing a fast speedometer, will give you a lower top speed, will require less torque to get your vehicle moving, and will cause you worse gas mileage at highway speeds (due to having to run the engine at a higher speed to maintain the same speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Calyth stated in their comment, the difference between the two tire sizes is not a heck of a lot, but it may show a slight difference, depending on the actual RPM for each tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T19:22:17.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14591" CreationDate="2014-12-15T20:27:20.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: You will almost certainly notice no effect at all other than the loss of fuel economy due to the increased weight.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very unlikely that a splitter or diffuser will have any measurable benefit unless you are driving a car that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very low to the ground over a ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very smooth surface at a ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very high speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Needless to say, the street is not a good place when considered under any of those criteria.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical example, let us consider the efforts of the good folks at Grassroots Motorsports.  In working on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/project-cars/1976-legrand-mk-18/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Le Grand Mk 18&lt;/a&gt;, they felt that it was worth their time to &lt;a href=&quot;http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/project-cars/1976-legrand-mk-18/diy-diffuser/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;install a diffuser&lt;/a&gt; (the caboose to a splitter's engine on the aerodynamic train).  This is because their car is super low:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1A85y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and because the car is &quot;A purpose-made race car built in the 1970s for SCCA's D Sports Racing category.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, a perfect splitter will increase overall downforce if combined with the rest of a properly engineered aerodynamics package.  It will also reduce your top speed and decrease your fuel economy because of the primal law of the universe: there ain't no such thing as a free lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T20:27:20.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14585" CreationDate="2014-12-15T21:57:07.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Crown_Victoria_Police_Interceptor#Comparison_with_standard_Crown_Victoria&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, there are many differences, but most of them are minor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both use the same 4.6l SOHC V8 engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Police Interceptor (PI) has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An external oil cooler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slightly different tune which allows the engine to idle a slight bit higher (40rpm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has more aggressive transmission shift points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission is built for harder, more aggressive shifts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different EGR control for 03+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most come with different rear end gear ratio (and different top speed) than stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a reinforced frame and body mounts and an optional limited slip rear differential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Severe duty shock absorbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stainless steel exhaust without resonators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most 04+ models have 200A alternators and a 75Ah battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I'm seeing there isn't much there which will differentiate performance, but a bunch there which will help with the longevity of the vehicle, especially for handling the extreme abuse dealt by the Popo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T21:57:07.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2014-12-16T00:08:04.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CBR600 F4 - which is essentially the same engine but with carburettors instead of injection. On cold start, just a small amount of choke adjustment will cause high revs (i.e 3000+) versus sitting at 1500-2000. As I have a manual choke, I'll warm it up at 1800-2000 RPM and then go easy riding it until temp gauge comes into the zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factory idle for a CBR600 F4 is 1500 - which feels somewhat high but does let you pull off easier from a standing start as the engine makes all it's power above 4000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T00:08:04.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12031" CreationDate="2014-12-16T01:17:49.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i had the same issue ended up changing the wheel bearing and was able to remove the ABS sensor but after re-installed the sensor gave out and the ABS light came on. ended up spending extra $120 for a new sensor. good luck ..update the other wheel bearing started making the noise 2 years later. time to repeat the process &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7793" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T01:17:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2014-12-16T01:26:34.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between Spark Plug types with regard to their construction material is the time that they maintain their profile before eroding.There is a difference in resistance of different materials, but this is not enough to make a noticeable difference, as normal OEM plug leads are of the resistive type for modern vehicles (any running injection systems or elelectronic ignition systems. Its my opinion that you should use the plugs specified by the OEM, however there is a judgement call on price! If you have the dealer service your car go with the longer life rare metal plugs, if you change them yourself save money and use copper!&#xA;Obviously always ensure the correct plug specification for length, sealing type (tapered or flat with washer) and electrode protrusion (heat range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7794" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T01:26:34.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T05:45:48.293" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck has no heater or A/C. Recently it's been unusually damp and foggy where I live. So now other than wiping the Windows down with a towel, I'm not sure what to do. The truck I'm driving is a 68 ford. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7795" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T12:12:54.463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T10:04:39.140" Title="How do I defog the windows on a older truck" Tags="|ford|pick-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14603" CreationDate="2014-12-16T08:14:35.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought we had a duplicate, but can't find it, so here is what I have successfully used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoroughly clean the inside of the windscreen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry with paper towels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a product like Rain-X anti-fog (there are various by different manufacturers, but this is what I use)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will at least clear the windscreen. Now, to help stop it fogging up again you have some challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, trying to keep the air cool and dry is your best bet, but without ac you can't fully do this. At best, try having windows open a little when driving - this will stop buildup of condensation from your breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T08:14:35.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14631" CreationDate="2014-12-16T11:50:48.867" Score="3" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally placed a heavy object on my key fob at home. It must have been there for more than five minutes before I noticed the little light flashing on the fob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have not been able to lock or unlock the car using the fob or set or reset the alarm or immobiliser, although the light still flashes on the fob when I press it. I have replaced the battery, but still no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that it has lost synch with the car, and my plan is to get it sorted when I take the car in for next service as I have a workaround (use the key and a manual alarm reset) - this is what the manual recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is there a way to resynch the key myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a specialist import 2006 Forester STi with a CAT 5 immobiliser. And I have discovered it is a Cobra fob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T18:25:19.873" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T20:18:05.417" Title="Can I resynchronise my Subaru (Cobra) key fob" Tags="|subaru|locks|fob|forester|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14586" CreationDate="2014-12-16T12:00:21.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your glow plugs may be bad. &quot;Check Engine&quot; light may also mean faulty glow plug (checked that on 2009 SEAT Ibiza with Ross Tech VAG COM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faulty glow plugs may be the case, but you can tell that from the way your engine works. If upon start your engine is shaking (not working very stable) or your revs are a bit jumpy, then it may indicate that fuel in some cylinders are not burned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this really is the cause, then after starting the engine try leaving it idle for few minutes. Glow plugs are needed only to heat up cylinders on start, after some time they get hot from all explosions and diesel does not need them anymore (diesel explodes from compression and high temperatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faulty glow plug may also produce smoke (white smoke / unburned fuel) but in cold weather it is hard to know since there will be much more steam coming too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7799" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T12:00:21.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T12:22:38.283" Score="1" ViewCount="3189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Figo. I had the battery recharged. Now the car won't start. There is a symbol which has pic of a car and a lock on it and that keeps blinking whenever I try to start and engine doesn't start. please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7800" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T14:31:20.047" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T12:48:31.833" Title="Ford Figo doesn't start after recharging the battery" Tags="|engine|ford|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2014-12-16T14:59:37.303" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem in my 2004 Forester xt automatic. Also the engine light was on for about a half a year. The car would first hesitate a lot to accelerate and a couple a day ago did not accelerate up a hill. My local mechanic said it could be two things: the flow meter (sensor next to airfliter) or the throttle sensor. To check the flowmeter it is very easy, just disconect the plug. I did it and the car runs prefectly so I know it is the flowmeter. Also, I had a p0107 code before. If the problem is still present, it is the throttle sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7801" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T01:27:28.663" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T01:27:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14614" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:38:56.640" Score="16" ViewCount="115163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Toyota Camry.  The fabric above the rear window has come detached and is sagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use a spray adhesive (Loctite High-Performance) on the yellow foam after taping the window to avoid spray overage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how I should be repairing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9Omb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="3120" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T15:56:51.687" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T20:16:00.053" Title="How do I repair detatched interior roof fabric?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14625" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:44:14.217" Score="15" ViewCount="94589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Toyota Camry, which is primarily kept in Florida (southern U.S.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My entire dashboard has been sticky / tacky for years.  I do not know why or how it got this way.  It accumulates dust and grime, and I have no way to properly clean it since all towels and cleaning cloths, unless extremely wet, get caught on it, and then it accumulates fibers from the cleaning cloths.  If I press into the dashboard with my finger, it retains a fingerprint.  I can easily cleave a piece off with my nail.  It has been this way since at least a year after I bought the car, and the Toyota dealership I brought it to insisted that it was my fault, and that I must have used some sort of corrosive cleaning solution on the dashboard, but I hadn't.  Some Windex, perhaps, but that shouldn't harm a dashboard, otherwise it'd be common knowledge by now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How / why did this happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I repair it without replacing the entire dashboard?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I be cleaning it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo - note the shiny (tacky to the touch) dashboard and accumulated dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBhiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of stickiness/shininess&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo - note the dangerous nighttime glare created by the shiny dashboard.  Glare also exists under direct sunlight, and is much worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6xcY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of shiny dashboard at night&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="3120" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T21:27:36.310" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T16:29:16.283" Title="Why is my Toyota dashboard shiny and sticky, and how do I clean it?" Tags="|toyota|cleaning|repair|camry|warranty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2014-12-16T16:54:27.157" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your suggestion may work for a short period of time, but this is not the way to permanently fix your ceiling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your head liner is made with a semi-sturdy backing which has foamed-fabric attached to it. What is happening in your case is the fabric is separating from the foam itself. This happens as the foam starts to deteriorate. Putting adhesive onto the foam, expecting the fabric to stick again will not keep it affixed, but will allow the glue to pull a new layer of foam away, and then it will be more ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two ways to fix this. The first way is to purchase a new head liner with the fabric already installed upon it. This is a &quot;ready made&quot; solution and is fairly easy, yet more expensive to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way to fix it is to remove the head liner, remove the old fabric and foam backing from the hard part, then go to a fabric store and purchase some head liner material. It will be pretty much what you already have. You'll need to match this as closely in color as you can to your original. When removing the old foam backing, you need to try to get as much as possible off of the head liner backing itself without destroying the backing in the process. Using a firm bristle brush would assist you in making this happen. It makes a mess, but it will get it clean enough without damaging anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once clean, you'll need to lay out your new covering. Ensure it is big enough to cover the entire area, plus some extra over the sides (at least an inch all the way around). Next, lay the new covering bottom side up next to the head liner backing. Spray both of these with spray on adhesive. 3M makes a whole line of these. Depending on the size of the head liner, you'll need probably 2-3 cans of the stuff to ensure complete coverage. Wait for the adhesive to become tacky, but not so it starts becoming dry (or it won't work), probably around 10 minutes ... you may want to test this on a scrap piece of fabric just to get an approximate time frame. When the two sides are tacky, you'll need to have help placing the new fabric upon the head liner. You'll want to let the center droop and touch down first. Then one person will work their side first, allowing it to go into place without leaving folds or voids which would make for ugliness. When one side is done, work the other side. After both sides are together, leave this until the glue is completely dried. Getting it centered both front-to-back and side-to-side is the most difficult part here. After that, ensuring there aren't any gaps or folds or flaps. Just do it slowly and work towards the outside. Once all is down, lightly press on the material to ensure the entire thing is affixed to the hard piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it is dried, you'll want to cut any holes you'll need for screws, mountings, visors, etc. Don't go overboard or you'll again have ugliness. Once all of the holes are cut, you can re-install the head liner, replace all of the &quot;stuff&quot; you took off to pull the headliner. As you are putting it back into place, tuck the 1&quot; edge you left around the outside up under the head liner. This will hopefully ensure there is no way for the roof to &quot;fall&quot; again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T16:54:27.157" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T18:57:51.180" Score="4" ViewCount="2456" Body="&lt;p&gt;replaced the starter a month or so ago and has started fine, until today.... i turn the key and all power is lost. i tried jumping it, charging the battery, hot wired the starter and still nothing.... turn the key off and try back a few mins later and have all the power back until i turn it into the on position, then ill either get one click then power is gone or no click no power... please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7803" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T00:59:24.997" Title="98 jeep cherokee wont start. get one click then everything shuts down no more dash lights or nothing" Tags="|electrical|starting|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14615" CreationDate="2014-12-17T01:19:44.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a connection problem at your battery or in the cables. This usually happens at the battery post, whether a top or side post model. The cable is getting enough of a connection to run the lights and such, which is relatively low load. As soon as you touch the starter, which is a high load, you lose the connection and everything goes black. Please remove both sides of the battery connection, clean the posts really well, then re-tighten  everything up, ensuring you have a good connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T01:19:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14623" CreationDate="2014-12-17T06:02:11.367" Score="3" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right area for the question but I am buying a new honda accord 2014 ex-L v6 2014 model. My question is does the value of the car depreciate because it is last years model even though it has not been used. This years model is 2015 which will become old in 4 month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7807" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T18:28:03.377" Title="Does new car from last year depreciate in value?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-19T04:39:46.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="686" CreationDate="2014-12-17T06:45:36.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've up a road and completely out of a oil and running from zombies, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; actually use vegetable oil...if absolutely necessary...if you change it immediately...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should choose a high temperature tolerant oil, so avoid olive oil. Canola or coconut would work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5143" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T06:45:36.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14622" CreationDate="2014-12-17T13:10:21.650" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the dealer to have some recall work done. He mentioned that some of the lights on the car were out including the license plate light and the driver side tail light. When examining the car myself, I bumped the tail light and it came on. Same with the plate light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a sign of just some loose bulbs, catastrophically expensive wiring issues, or something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7809" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:37:52.417" Title="What are the possible causes for a tail light that comes on when bumped?" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14618" CreationDate="2014-12-17T13:17:06.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does. Not by as much as if you bought it, but you'll usually see old stock advertised at discounted prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T13:17:06.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14620" CreationDate="2014-12-17T16:37:52.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a loose bulb, corrosion in the socket, or most probably a filament which is going bad. I doubt it's anything catastrophically expensive to fix. Easiest first try is to just pull the bulb and look for corrosion in the socket. Next see if the filament wiggles inside the bulb. If all else fails, just replace the bulb with a new one. If none of this works, you'll probably have to take it to a shop to have it looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:37:52.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14618" CreationDate="2014-12-17T18:28:03.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the typical term of depreciation, no it does not ... the sticker price is still the sticker price.  There are three main factors which will depreciate a car: if it's used, how old it is, and its mileage. The adage of a vehicle losing so much value when it leaves the lot is due to you purchasing it. Once you have purchased it, it is now &quot;used&quot;. It doesn't matter that you have not put any appreciable mileage on the vehicle yet, it's still used. The year, being in the current calendar year, will not affect it. When the calendar rolls over to 2015, then you'll see a hit. Mileage is self evident as to a depreciation factor. This is actually the second biggest factor in depreciation after the used/new status. Usually every 10k miles the vehicle will take a bigger hit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as buying the previous MY vehicle in the current calendar year, if you don't negotiate, you might expect to pay the sticker price. There are a couple of things which will modify the price and help to bring down the buying cost from what you'd expect from the current MY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, dealerships have incentives to sell a car as soon as possible when they arrive on the lot. In most dealerships, they have to purchase the cars which come on their lot from the manufacturer. They do not put up their own money, but utilize a standing &quot;loan&quot; (I believe it is called differently, but this term still fits and is understandable to most). The total loan amount can be several million dollars, depending on the amount of inventory the dealership holds. As a car is brought onto the lot and processed, the dealership has to pay the interest on the loan. As an incentive for the dealership to purchase the cars, the auto manufacturer provides a stipend which covers about three months of interest on a given vehicle. The sooner the dealership sells the car, the more money they retain from this stipend. If the dealership has the car on their lot for longer than this period, it is costing them money. The dealership will lower their prices to &quot;cut their losses&quot;. Toward the end of the year this becomes very prevalent and price cutting is in vogue. People who want a &quot;new&quot; car are wanting the current MY, especially if the sticker price has not come up that much from the previous MY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the manufacturer may have left over cars from the previous MY they need to off load. They will send out notices to their top dealerships asking if any want the cars. The manufacturer will give dealerships extra incentives to sell these types of cars. The dealerships will sometimes pass these incentives onto the consumer, but most of the time the manufacturer will also have rebates or interest rate promotions which help sell the cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the consumer wins if they don't mind last years model, but the consumer needs to do their homework and be informed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T18:28:03.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14628" CreationDate="2014-12-17T20:25:39.167" Score="7" ViewCount="12337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 Honda Prelude and have only driven it a few hundred miles per year for the 10 years I've owned it. Redid the clutch when I got it, with new cylinders and everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week I got in it having not driven the car for several months, and the clutch was just dead. No hydraulic pressure at all. Two days ago I bled the line and put in new fluid. It was working again although the pedal still was only coming up half-way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was driving and with my foot, I pulled the pedal all the way up. Then when I pushed it back down, no pressure again -- somehow air got in the line from me lifting up the pedal all the way like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the master cylinder and it has yellowish residue on it. Is that a sign that it's got a leak? There is also what looks like red mold or rust on the shafts of the pedals, since the car has been leaking moisture into the interior (I live in a city where it rains a lot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, firstly, what would cause the clutch hydraulics to leak and get air inside if the car wasn't even being driven? I probably didn't add clutch fluid in several years so I'm assuming it just evaporates slowly over time, but my brakes haven't had the same problem so I wonder if it's something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause the master clutch cylinder to leak after not many miles? Defect? Maybe from freezing repeatedly over several winters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if it's worth bleeding again or if I'm likely to run into the same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7811" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:13:59.767" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T20:25:17.717" Title="What would cause a clutch master cylinder to go bad?" Tags="|clutch|clutch-cylinder|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14613" CreationDate="2014-12-17T20:31:45.487" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MAJOR UPDATE - TOYOTA WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR &amp;quot;STICKY DASHBOARDS&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today ( &lt;strong&gt;12/29/2014&lt;/strong&gt; ) I received in the mail a Warranty Enhancement Notification regarding my Toyota.  Complete coincidence that I received this a few weeks after I posted the original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relevant December 18th, 2014 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wptv.com/money/consumer/help-for-melting-dashboards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; from a consumer investigator regarding this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important excerpts from my Warranty Enhancement Notification include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This program will extend the warranty coverage for repairs related to cracked and/or sticky/melting Dashboards (Instrument Panels) as a result of heat or humidity on 2003-2005 model 4Runner, 2005-2010 model year Avalon, 2007-2011 model year Camry and Camry Hybrid, 2004-2010 model year Sienna, and 2004-2008 model year Solara vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dashboards can become cracked and/or sticky/melted over time for a number of different reasons and under a number of different circumstances.  If the Dashboard has become cracked and/or sticky/melted as a result of heat or humidity, the repair will be performed at no charge as soon as parts become available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primary Coverage offers warranty enhancement described herein for all owners until May 31, 2017, regardless of mileage or date of first use of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary Coverage supplements the Primary Coverage for some owners by offering the warranty enhancement described herein for 10 years from the date of first use of the vehicle, regardless of mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... coverage is for warranty work performed for the covered Dashboards and must be performed at an authorized Toyota dealer only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have previously paid for repairs to address any {qualifying} Dashboard, mail a copy of repair order, proof-of-payment, and proof-of-ownership to address for reimbursement consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Toyota Customer Experience, WC 10&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;19001 South Western Avenue&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Torrance, CA 90509&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original, December 17th, answer follows&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered the following during research after I posted the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching online against &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Toyota Camry Sticky Dashboard&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; returns many very specific results, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47W3SLkgVp0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;videos&lt;/a&gt;.  There are many reports of Toyota Camry vehicles (standard, hybrid, and other variants) from the 2007-2009 year range producing a sticky dashboard, which eventually transforms into a shiny, reflective surface, which creates a definite driving safety hazard, obstructing the driver's view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/21726645/exclusive-some-toyota-camrys-suffer-from-sticky-cracking-dashboards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hawaii News Now&lt;/a&gt;, Toyota's stance is the original warranty only.  As this tackiness of the dashboard seems to happen more often after 3 years, once the warranty has ended, and since there is no recall program, many owners are out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can a consumer do?  Concerned U.S. consumers can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;file a complaint&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Highway Traffic Safety Administration&lt;/a&gt; (NHTSA) with an emphasis on (1) the stickyness of the dashboard, and (2) the shiny/reflective surface the dashboard creates, as a safety hazard.  Reviewing the NHTSA complaints reveals multiple submissions regarding this specific issue; perhaps if there are more submitted, the NHTSA will investigate and prompt a recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I cannot recommend how to repair the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Feb. 19, 2016 UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Of note, I have been on a waiting list to have this repaired for over a year; my local dealer claims that Toyota has not yet shipped any replacement dashboards, but I find this hard to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;April 2016 UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; One year and four months after getting the warranty extension, my local dealer finally received dashboards and replaced mine.  It looks fine now; no issues, no stickiness.  Now if only they'd address the poor leather stitching, the degrading ceiling fabric, the disintegrating steering wheel, and the interior black paint chipping off the power window buttons.  I'm never buying a Toyota again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;January 2017 UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; They replaced the cracking dashboard of my wife's Solara convertible, which was also under the recall.  Unlike my dashboard, hers has a very funky smell, as though someone had smoked several packs of cigarettes around it.  The dealership assured us this is normal and will fade over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T16:29:16.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T20:54:18.860" Score="4" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just yesterday i decided to get fuel from a place i usually don't , after driving for some hours my car just shout off , i tried accelerating but i couldn't so i parked .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some minutes i tried starting the car and it was up again , same thing happened today , could this be because of bad fuel , and if it is what are the necessary steps to stop this malfunction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Honda Accord 2005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7812" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:01:48.747" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T14:08:38.873" Title="My Honda Accord shuts off while on driving" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T21:09:37.373" Score="9" ViewCount="8173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having an issue with my Peugeot 207 (2008 model) 1.6L VTI petrol engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cam cover was replaced by the garage but hasn't fixed the problem. I have lost faith in them. I have managed to record and upload an example of the noise it makes, but I now realise that when you (the reader) listen to this you can't tell the noises apart because there's just too much noise - you might be able to pick something out though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/q0mc9aaSaHw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/q0mc9aaSaHw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, a good revving of the accelerator cleared it to a more normal sound this time. But something is not right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's idling the engine becomes hesitant and it behaves like it's about to stall. The garage thought it was because a break in the cam cover was letting too much air in, which is what the OBD was suggesting (O2 sensor stuck lean, both before and after the Cat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, now first gear is making a louder noise than usual. I'd describe as a bit like what I imagine it sounds like when a cat is being strangled. 2nd gear behaves like first, 3rd like second and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the new cam cover has been put on the behaviour has gotten worse, but at least the oil has stopped dripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle body: Give it a good clean and fit back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full oil change and filter change (overdue anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the gear box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the cat converter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm clutching at straws now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7665" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T18:28:19.950" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T12:36:06.570" Title="Strange surging and like it's going to stall, hesitant whilst idling" Tags="|engine|noise|peugeot|lean|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2014-12-17T22:29:52.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best (easiest/cleanest) bet is to replace the master/slave cylinder assembly. The main part of play here is &lt;em&gt;lack of use&lt;/em&gt;. What happens is seals dry out and when you then subsequently use the clutch, extra wear is put on the seal, which allows it to wear much quicker. You can avoid this situation by driving the car at least once a month until the entire vehicle is warmed up (engine, transmission, coolant, wheel bearings ... &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;). Take it out for a weekend drive for an hour and you should be golden. With that, you should also start the vehicle about once a week. Also, put some type of fuel stabilizer in your tank and keep the tank as full as possible. Also, even though you are not driving the vehicle much, you still want to change the oil once a year as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the pedals go, you need to take them apart, clean, then grease them. There may be nylon or plastic bushings at the top which might need to be replaced as well. You are getting rid of the &quot;red mold&quot; (which is rust, most likely) which has invaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all of this is said and done, if you want to keep the car, invest in a car cover. If you don't, you are just allowing nature to reclaim the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T22:29:52.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-18T08:46:48.823" Score="3" ViewCount="12116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 2002 Toyota Sequoia Limited with 167K miles on it. I've got the VSC TRAC and TRAC OFF lights on in the dashboard but not the ABS light. The mechanic that did my pre-purchase check said that it would go away by itself and that I shouldn't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It got code C1221 meaning: &quot;ABS lamp warning output circuit short to ground. OBD Code C1221: Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0&quot; (as of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-data.com/c1221.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-data.com/c1221.html&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that I need to change my left front speed sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best, &#xA;Emil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7817" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T09:05:29.003" Title="VSC TRAC, TRAC OFF is on but ABS is not. What does it means?" Tags="|toyota|abs|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14606" CreationDate="2014-12-18T12:53:12.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the way to resynch a Cobra key fob is to hold both buttons down for about 6-8 seconds, or until the flashing lights stop flashing. You then release the buttons, and press each of them once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: It turns out there is even a Cobra Car Tech YouTube channel, and they have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNJJ9u9aDqg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video showing&lt;/a&gt; what I have described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T20:18:05.417" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T20:18:05.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2014-12-18T23:02:28.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One item which may have a bearing on the steering wheel vibration may be affectedby the brakes. By adjustment to the through lever at the rear of the master cylinder overcame the problem of my ford falcon model BF may assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7821" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T23:02:28.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-19T00:04:09.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Lexus IS200 is about to hit 100 thousand km and I am about to change the oil, oil filter, air and cabin filters. My question is, do I need a new fuel filter this early in the life of the car? It's been using Spanish gas all its life which is not the worst out there, I guess. I have tried to find Lexus recommendations on it but to no avail. Any hints? Thanks a lot in advance for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7822" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:41:27.547" Title="'01 Lexus IS200, do I need a new fuel filter?" Tags="|fuel-system|lexus|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2014-12-19T01:24:37.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's never been changed, then yes, I'd change it. To get 100k out of a fuel filter is a good life for it. Fuel filters are usually not too expensive, so are a decent maintenance item to take care of. They are also usually fairly easy to change ... usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T01:24:37.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13463" CreationDate="2014-12-19T05:23:39.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fuel is less than about a month old, you're probably still ok with just pouring in a bunch of stabilizer and warming up the bike to get it well mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a couple months old, you probably want to follow @Paulster2's advice and drain the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T05:23:39.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2014-12-19T06:31:30.570" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an alignment and also have your struts tightened. Pay attention to whether it happens when shifting also, which probably wouldn't be a concern because every once in a blue moon your transmission just doesn't synchronize perfectly, or may be warped at specific locations. Sometimes the road may just be imperfect. I sit 3 inches from the ground, sometimes there's just places you can't see that are very rough and at low speeds and about 50 are when you can feel them the most. I've heard about an old friend with a BMW who had that problem. They are also always the suspect when a gas pump doesn't stop pumping gas this year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T06:31:30.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2014-12-19T06:41:16.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are getting an O2 sensor code, you really need to start at the core of the motor, and have your intake, exhaust, and head gaskets redone. O2 sensors throw codes if there is an air leak, and it could be far from the O2 sensor. A valve adjustment may also be necessary. If it's dying while you're driving down the road, that sounds like your alternator. Also if you are jumping on the highway without letting your car warm up, your spark plugs can actually shatter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T06:41:16.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4023" CreationDate="2014-12-19T06:48:01.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could be driving it incorrectly. An automatic transmission will switch at lower or higher RPM's depending on how hard you're pressing the gas pedal. A gas pedal is actually an air pedal. It forces more air conduction by opening the throttle body, located between your intake manifold and air filter(or cold air intake). If you suddenly push the gas pedal down while going 20 mph, at 4,000 rpms, then the second you hit 6,000 and your car shifts, you're going to feel a jerk. If you ease off the pedal, your car will switch gears at a lower rpm, as high torque is closer to around 2,500 rpms depending on the gear, and it will give you better gas mileage. In order to accelerate faster, as your transmission knows, you must reach high RPM's and with that, when you switch gears, it will pick up at a relatively higher RPM than if you were accelerating slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T06:48:01.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2014-12-19T06:57:19.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you're flooding the engine by hitting the gas pedal when it's off. Don't do that. If you're low on gas and you want to start it. You might find a chain of commands online for how to prime it. In a Honda and some other 90's vehicles, slowly, it's ignition on, ignition off x 3, pump gas pedal, off. Start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T06:57:19.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-19T07:03:57.397" Score="2" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really do hope the someone can help me since I'm getting all kinds of feedbacks from colleagues and the web... And all of them are different!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently live in Germany and some days ago I was going with my car around, but with rain and fog during the night I couldn't basically see anything. Since I have halogen lamps, I thought it'd be better to buy some xenon ones in order to get a better lumen output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does German law allows any kind of light to be mounted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to replace the whole headlights, or can I buy only the &quot;burner&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I need to check in order to understand if the car can mount those without problem? (and I'm not referring only to electrical stuff - my colleagues warned me about some humidity problem, but I didn't quite understand...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much should I be ready to pay for that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I mounted those &quot;+130% lamps&quot; which give only a small upgrade to the vision field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7824" LastEditorUserId="7824" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T07:32:45.710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T07:32:45.710" Title="Golf VI - September 2009 - Replace halogen headlight with Xenon" Tags="|vw|headlight|golf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14642" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:33:41.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early Xenon light conversions were totally unsuitable for vehicle use because they did not form a distinct beam or focused pattern. Later kits include lamp assemblies which very much correct these faults. Xenon are used on dipped beams because of the time lag from turning them on and thier reaching operating luminosity. European law requires main beams to illuminate immediately when switched on from dipped beam, so Xenon are not used as they do not do this because of the inherent lag in operation. Later implementations of Xenon headlamps do have main beam Xenon operation but include an 'always on' third lamp, or an intermediate operation of the main beam. Fog and rain reflect headlamp beams back to the lamp being operated, so driving in fog and rain should be done on dipped beam for maximum visibility and to avoid this glare. (A vehicle should only be driven at any time at a speed that it can be stopped in the distance visible to the driver.) An annoyance with conversions is that where the lights have a 'bulb failure' warning as standard, the failed bulb tell tale warning lights up all of the time and its safety advantage is lost, if not fitted with relevant inline resistors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:33:41.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14642" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:36:22.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just reach behind your headlight behind a rubber guard,  there's a clip that holds your bulb inside, screwed in like a light bulb, as long as they are headlights and not fog lamps that you're talking about. It hooks and presses backwards, away from the headlight fixture, so you just press in and unhook it. With some cars there's things in the way. You might have to undo a few hidden bolts behind the bumper, a tiny frame that the headlight is bolted to, possibly on at least one side. It shouldn't be hard. If you did it yourself and had the right sockets it might take 30 minutes, but you may need a car jack on one side. It really shouldn't even be that hard. I however, have done this, and Xenon lights may look nice but when you're sitting behind them, you can't even tell they're on most of the time, because they have a blue tint. Sometimes it leaves you visually blind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:36:22.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:41:27.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel filter on your vehicle is part of its fuel pump in the fuel tank. They are designed and made to last the 'life of the vehicle'. They have a plastic OBD2 fuel tank with an interior 'bladder', which means unless something other then normal operation causes damage they never have to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:41:27.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:41:28.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double wiper blades are sometimes the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:41:28.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13452" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:44:24.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have your subs hooked up, have someone install a capacitor, a spare battery for your subs. Shouldn't be any extra cost. It just goes from the power to the amp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:44:24.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9809" CreationDate="2014-12-19T11:50:35.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it would be easiest to have it welded back together, but there's a wire that runs from your antennae down through the frame, behind the dashboard..you have to like cut it, and tie the new one on, and fish it through. then i think there's a connector at the end. it's been a while. very difficult if you don't fish it through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T11:50:35.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14642" CreationDate="2014-12-19T12:00:17.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably much cheaper solution to your problem could be more powerful light bulbs. I had same issue with Mitsubishi Galant EA0 and was considering xenons, but after some research I ended up changing bulbs to 100w &quot;extra light&quot; ones. These look like xenons, are much brighter and does not need any extra work or resources. Just to be more specific about the costs. In Germany you may have to pay approx. 100+eur each just for the xenon bulbs, not to mention power source, mounts or any other stuff. In the end, you may no longer be able to succeed in TÜV... So I recommend new bulbs for about 10/20 eur each (yes they are that cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7799" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T12:00:17.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2014-12-19T12:08:54.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to tell (and I do this always) is to apply hand brake, shift 1st gear and by keeping 2000rpm slowly releasing the clutch. As you release it you will see that front of the car is rising and the back is getting pulled. If none of this happens and you feel odd smell, your clutch is bad. If you accidentally stall the engine or you feel that rear wheels get pulled or you feel that car shifts (front raises while back lowers) then you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning:&#xA;This methos applies only to car that has front wheel drive, mechanical gearbox and mechanical parking brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7799" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T12:08:54.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14630" CreationDate="2014-12-19T12:13:01.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before replacing the sensor, disconnect it at its plug to the loom. Test for a resistence across its two terminals. The code is telling you of a short to ground. This can mean that the feed wire, the sensor assembly, or the signal wire is not conducting through the circuit. Check the cabling for breaks or damage, especially on its bends. No breaks, or no continuity then simple change the sensor. Your mechanic was perhaps telling you that the brakes will work perfectly with the ABS not working, but they will not have the anti-lock feature on 'panic braking'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T12:13:01.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14626" CreationDate="2014-12-19T12:31:07.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The probability of fuel contamination is a possibility, but I would have thought that if it was the case, the vehicle would have shut down and would not have been able to be restarted. I would be inclined to think that you have a failing component. As it is apparently an intermittant fault I would be run the vehicle with a data logger attached to track a re-occurence, after having a vehicle scan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3975" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T12:31:07.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14525" CreationDate="2014-12-19T14:34:36.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out, I had a bad catalytic converter and I was reading the wrong thing in my original post.  I identified the bad cat by looking at the correct sensor data.  The data posted (red and blue) is the lambda measurement, which is a derived (not actual) measurement.  It's useful for the forward A/F, but useless (as far as I have seen) for the downstream O2 sensor.  The reason it fluctuates around 1 instead of the usual .7 volts is because it is a ratio that, by definition, hangs out around 1...  So that answers that part.  (Note that the A/F sensor stays closer to 3.2 volts or something like that if you choose to read the actual A/F sensor voltage instead of the lambda reading).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the repair, when I looked at the rear o2 sensor readings (which centered around .7 volts), they were wildly swinging up and down with the A/F's lambda reading.  This is an indication that the catalytic converter might be bad (though, I recommend doing a bunch of reading and testing before drawing your own conclusions, because there can be other issues that cause similar signs; e.g. I had a bad exhaust gasket on a Tacoma and it threw a P0420 code.  The o2 sensor was swinging up and down, though probably not as tightly correlated as this one was with the front sensor.  $20 gasket and some grinding was a lot less painful than a new cat, and it fixed the problem. YMMV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered an aftermarket cat from Advanced Auto Parts; make sure to use the 20% off code (they always have one going) and they shipped it free to my door ($240 total for the cat).  I had to cut the pipe at the correct place with a hack saw (I actually cut so I'd have extra, and then cut again for an exact fit; the fit of old vs new was exact enough that I could have measured and made one cut, but I didn't want to risk coming up short, and it's a complex shape to be certain it will line up just the same).  I clamped the pipes together with a piece of tube that came with the cat, and that sealed it/made it permanent (big U clamp with nuts to tighten a cross-member).  After a little smoke as the new cat sort of burned in (during which the rear O2 sensor was swinging up and down and my heart was sinking; this took about 10 minutes), finally the rear o2 reading steadied and has held ever since.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note: I tried an aftermarket flange gasket, and it didn't work, it was too small and wouldn't go on.  The flange was 2.4 inches across, and the after market gasket was 2.3 inches ID.  I went OEM so I could get the car back together with no further delays ($52 from Toyota, ouch!).  Of course the OEM part fit perfectly.  Also, my spring-bolts were in perfect shape, and I reused them (which is shocking for a 10 year old exhaust part to not be rusted out in New England).  That saved me from having to get new hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of interest, when watching the downflow O2 sensor on a Prius, it will drop down to almost 0 when the engine stops or is braking (no fuel, so it shows lot of oxygen, which looks like a very lean condition on an o2 sensor).  It's tough to get a good measurement over a long period of time, because the sensor drops down all the time, and then kicks in when the engine kicks in, then steadies, then falls as you coast and stop producing power with the engine.  I took the car to a hill, just to make absolutely sure it was working right, and laid on the engine for a good minute, with the o2 sensor reading staying steady.  I'll report back if I find anything else, but it looks really good so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have before/after data (logged sensor data).  I'd be willing to post it here for future reference, but I'm not sure how to attach a data file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4499" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T14:34:36.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14603" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:07:07.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently heard you can fill a stocking or a sock with kitty litter and it will keep the moisture absorbed. At walmart you can get silica gel crystals by the pound, or maybe it's dessicant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T10:04:39.140" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T10:04:39.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9231" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:17:32.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if there's a &quot;Pull a part&quot; close to you. It's the walmart of junkyards. They have computers that you just type in your car make and model and gives you a list of similar cars on the lot and they can manually look up other parts that are swappable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T20:17:32.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15628" CreationDate="2014-12-19T23:08:20.387" Score="3" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Dodge Dakota 4x4. I just replaced the pitman arm which reduced a bunch of play in the wheel. Awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However (and I didn't notice until actually driving it) the steering wheel is now upside down in order to go straight. Good for a laugh, but really, no bueno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the upside down steering wheel is because the four cardinal &quot;notches&quot; in the replacement pitman arm gear teeth are off by about 25 degrees from the original part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Is it something that I can fix by shortening one side of tie rods and lengthening the other? Or did the guys at my local O'Reilly just give me the wrong part? In all other aspects, the pitman arm fits correctly. It's just that the cardinal notches are slightly out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the old one. See how the cardinal notches (red) don't line up symmetrically with the pitman arm (black)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzJuA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the new one. The cardinal notches are symmetrical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAAEe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T00:47:38.217" Title="Should replacement pitman arm have the same gear teeth configuration?" Tags="|steering|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T00:46:09.333" Score="6" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 ML320 suv. The CEL is on, and the code is &lt;kbd&gt;P0446&lt;/kbd&gt;. It states that there is something wrong with the evap. system circuit, specifically at the charcoal canister shut-off valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried literally everything, (replacing valve, checking the wires, resetting the CEL, etc). But it is still on. I don't think there is a leak anywhere in the evap. system, because this code isn't talking about leaks. So I think the last thing to do now is to check the entire evap. system circuit and check for any loose connections, broken wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of all the wires of the circuit and where they are located throughout the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very time-consuming CEL, and if I take it to the dealer, God knows how much money I'll end up paying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7826" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T17:28:35.943" LastActivityDate="2023-10-23T19:09:21.103" Title="Evap. circuit malfunction on Mercedes Benz" Tags="|mercedes-benz|emissions|evap|p0446|diagram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T01:28:55.297" Score="3" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3-door Mitsubishi Colt '99 model hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a couple of questions I'd like to ask..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all when I leave my car parked up for the night and then I go to drive it in the morning it seems like my car has lost power.  It starts fine but struggles and if i drive straight away I put my foot down to drive and it splutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of many things I changed my manifold and I got whole new exhaust fitted because I thought it might be losing power through them but it still does this every day..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after about ten minutes of driving the car of spluttering it stops then..  I need a solution I need to know what is wrong with my car.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help? Sorry for long essay but no shorter way I could have put it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7828" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:59:49.733" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:13:09.760" Title="Mitsubishi Colt splutters in when engine is cold" Tags="|mitsubishi|cold-start|colt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14663" CreationDate="2014-12-20T02:52:11.790" Score="4" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tapped a hole in my motor (to hold the valve cover) but I don't think the pre-existing hole was deep enough.  Can you make a tapped hole deeper?  As the drill bit for the pilot hole should fit right between the threads, this should work, correct?  Or am I flirting with destroying the threads I created?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7095" LastEditorUserId="7095" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T02:55:02.653" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T02:55:02.653" Title="Can you make a tapped hole deeper?" Tags="|engine|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14662" CreationDate="2014-12-20T05:25:53.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this, but you could possibly run into two problems (as I see it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, what you said about destroying the threads you already created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you run the risk of running into an oil or water channel when doing this kind of drilling. I don't think there is a great risk of it in the head, but there is a risk to be aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, can you shorten your original bolt and still have it hold enough to keep the valve cover on? This might be a better option, if it's viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T05:25:53.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11926" CreationDate="2014-12-20T07:31:34.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be an electrical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a similar problem with a 1993 Honda Prelude. The car wouldn't start after a short journey especially on hot days. I had my mechanic look at it, but they never found anything wrong with it because the problem would never occur while they had the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I would drive the car to the petrol station fill up with gas and then the car wouldn't start. I would sit there attempting to start the car every couple of minutes, and eventually it would start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day the car was parked outside my friends house on a hot summer day and the car wouldn't start, even after 30 - 60 minutes of trying. Eventually I had the car towed to a mechanic I hadn't used before. It was left with them and they couldn't find any problem with the car as it started when they tried it. They decided to resolder the mains anyway, and amazingly the car never exhibited the problem again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7832" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T07:31:34.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14690" CreationDate="2014-12-20T07:56:32.233" Score="4" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my catalytic converter. The current one is held in place by U-bolts. Two U-bolts between the cat and the manifold exhaust pipe (looks like a patch). One holding the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold pipe and one U-bolt holding the other end to the muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't strike me as the best way to put them together. I thought maybe they should be welded together or something so that there's no leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal to attach a catalytic converter using u-bolts? Or when i replace it should I have it welded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T19:05:35.503" Title="Is it normal to attach a catalytic converter with U-bolts?" Tags="|exhaust|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T08:06:13.683" Score="3" ViewCount="52632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Mazda Axela which comes with a navigation and stereo system that is in Japanese. Is it possible to change the language to English?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXyRt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7832" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T22:12:51.107" Title="Is it possible to change the language of a 2009 Mazda Axela stereo and navigation system from Japanese to English?" Tags="|mazda|audio|navigation|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T11:17:42.887" Score="8" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full bottle of jewelry cleaning (links product and material safety data sheet below) broke in my car and went unnoticed for a few days.  Now the car has a sulfur-like smell whenever I go into the car.  It dissipates within a few minutes, but then returns very quickly once I leave the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary chemical components are alcohol ethoxylates, and can decompose into carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide nitrogen Oxides, sulfur oxides and other toxic gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cleaned the area and had the carpet (rear driver) shampooed from a car detailer, but still the smell remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What chemical compound can I use to neutralize the smell permanently (enter equilibrium)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0044B5WN6&quot;&gt;Product Link (Amazon)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://connoisseurs.com/jewelry_care/liquid_dip_cleaners_silver_bath.php&quot;&gt;Product Link (Manufacturer)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://connoisseurs.com/msds/MSDS-Silver-Jewelry-Cleaner.pdf&quot;&gt;Material data safety sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="655" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T19:27:04.570" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T17:50:55.803" Title="Neutralizing sulfur-like smell from car" Tags="|cleaning|smell|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T12:10:01.547" Score="2" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was sold a wrong battery for my Lexus IS200 (switched polarity) and I inadvertently connected it to the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hooked up the wrong battery I noticed immediately that something was wrong (the warning lights went on and stayed on without blinking!) and disconnected it quickly, but it stayed connected for a few seconds. I called the store and asked them to check the old battery which they were going to dispose of and they confirmed they had sold me the wrong battery. Went back to the store, got the right battery, hooked it on the car and the instrument panel is dead. The throttle response is also really strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid I have damaged electrical and electronic systems in the car, but how bad can it be? Could it be just a few fuses or can it be potentially worse? Also, in your opinion, is the store responsible? I did bring them the old battery and said, &quot;one like this, please&quot;. The clerk admitted when I got the right one that he had failed to check the polarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7822" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:26:04.167" Title="Lexus IS200 malfunctions after wrong polarity battery installed" Tags="|battery|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14679" CreationDate="2014-12-20T12:54:54.967" Score="2" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep it short, what should one do to keep the outside of their car looking as close to new as possible over the years, and in what intervals? It's too late for my car, but my wife's car isn't that old and if I can start with hers then hopefully she'll still be attracted to it in 6 years and won't try and trade it in for a younger model....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T20:46:34.210" Title="How to maintain a car's exterior?" Tags="|maintenance|car|exterior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14667" CreationDate="2014-12-20T15:43:23.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances are you have a domestic unit that hasn't been localized into English. If you own the car it might be worthwile bringing it to a Mazda shop, they will help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7822" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T15:43:23.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2014-12-20T15:56:17.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Do a couple of very thorough, professional grade cleanings per year, inside and out. This may include special treatment for the body to remove hard-nosed particles that get stuck to the paint. You can try to do it yourself with some special clay bars available for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Wash the car every week by hand with warm water and soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Pay attention to dings and chips in the bumpers and paint. They aren't that difficult to treat and they are really important when considering the overall appearance. Just touching up dings with a paint brush can mean a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Keep the wheels and wheel arches clean, and when you clean the wheels, apply one of those oily coating to the tire wall to express a more clean look and avoid dirt to get stuck to it while you drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are consistent with this your car will look brand new for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7822" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T15:56:17.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T17:23:02.570" Score="5" ViewCount="10413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even after a fresh brake and rotor job, my brakes still don't have that new feel on the pedal, there's still a lot of travel before I stop what am I missing? I've never bled the brakes, replaced any calipers, the cylinder, or the booster, just pads and rotors throughout the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T05:53:35.617" Title="How do I get the brakes on my old car feeling like new?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14674" CreationDate="2014-12-20T17:40:19.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things I can think of which may be the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First - You could start by flushing the break lines with fresh brake fluid. Old fluid in the lines can contain water and air which would not be good and give you the squishy feeling. Getting rid of the old fluid would probably help the pedal feel tremendously. Ensure you are bleeding the brake lines correctly, starting from the furthest brake away from the master cylinder and working your way back. If you don't have a tool for brake bleeding (vacuum or pressure), this is a two person job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - You may have a bulging soft line. These are the lines which attach to the calipers/wheel cylinders which allow for suspension travel and wheel turning. If there is a bulge in one of these, it could fail at any time, which is a very dangerous proposition. If this is the case, it is something which needs to be taken care of immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T00:10:18.467" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T00:10:18.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14677" CreationDate="2014-12-20T17:53:11.377" Score="2" ViewCount="2842" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I add a new key to a Daihatsu immobiliser? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key I have has a Texas 4C transponder, and is used in the Daihatsu Copen and Daihatsu YRV (to name just two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="3766" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T20:50:05.190" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:50:05.190" Title="How to add a new transponder / key to a Daihatsu immobiliser" Tags="|obd-ii|immobilizer|daihatsu|program|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14676" CreationDate="2014-12-20T18:10:04.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the black &quot;master&quot; key that came with your Daihatsu, adding new keys is simple. You will need to have all your keys ready, as these steps will remove all keys from the immobiliser ECU with the exception of the black master key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steps will work for the Daihatsu Copen (pre 2013) and the Daihatsu YRV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the terminal T to Terminal E on the DLC / OBDII port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the master key into the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on the ignition (do not turn over the car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the key from the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Withinn 10s) turn on the ignition using the sub key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the key from the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeats steps 6-8 using another key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the final key removal, wait 30 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the OBDII short&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal T is OBDII pin 13 and terminal E is OBDII pin 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/N96wMYQN_DM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This youtube video covers this also&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T18:10:04.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12601" CreationDate="2014-12-20T20:15:11.900" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tighter valve adjustments sounds like a choked motor and will stall when low on gas, looser valve adjustments sound more like a Harley but too loose and you will hear clatter(bad valves are slapping against something, this can also happen if you run 87 in a 10:1 ratio cylinder) or a diesel sound, which isn't necessarily bad. If by messing with your timing belt, you made your valves operate by a slightly different time, that could be the reason. Also if the teeth keep wearing out, you may be experiencing delayed firing of certain cylinders or gasoline igniting in places it shouldn't like your exhaust. It also could be that you have your boost adjusted or one of your spark plugs has a burn mark on the end of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T23:17:21.203" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T23:17:21.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2014-12-20T20:46:34.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: I'm a big proponent of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1294/57&quot;&gt;washing and waxing the car&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of bounding the answer to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/17765991#17765991&quot;&gt;reasonable number of words&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what should one do to keep the outside of their car looking as close to new as possible over the years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, what do we see when we look at a new car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's shiny.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not rusty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... in what intervals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's &lt;strong&gt;dirty&lt;/strong&gt; (for your definition of dirt), it's &lt;strong&gt;safe to clean&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e., you know that you're going to make things better rather than worse) and it &lt;strong&gt;fits with your schedule&lt;/strong&gt;.  Bonus points if you enjoy taking care of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does this mean in practical terms?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Washing&lt;/strong&gt; is anything that you can do to remove grime and corrosives (e.g., brake dust and road salt).  Buckets and hoses are great if you have the space and the water but sometimes you're reduced to a spray bottle wash in a confined space.  You want to make sure that whatever you're using as a cleaner will lift the particulates away and has enough lubrication that any rubbing you do is less likely to grind scratches into your paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to maintain looks, it's worth washing everything you can see on the car.  This includes tires and wheels to remove that nasty brake dust.  It's also worth wiping out all your door seams and rubber fittings.  You'd be surprised how much grime collects in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waxing&lt;/strong&gt; is anything that you can do to put a sacrificial layer between the hostile world and your car.  This does two important things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes the car look nice and shiny.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It keeps the rust demons away from the metal of your car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the painted surfaces only have a thin layer of paint under an even thinner layer of clear coat.  It's worth putting a little extra on top of all that to shield your car from an unfriendly environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the waxing-type techniques that I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray-wax: it's basically a thinner wax in a spray bottle.  Great for those times when you barely have any time.  Definitely better than nothing.  You can also use this trick to get wax onto the underside of your car.  You can decide whether this is worth it (I've definitely done it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dollop of wax in the wash bucket: this is a good trick (although too much wax will keep your soap from sudsing).  Just wash the car as normal and it'll leave a thin layer of wax behind.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash-wash-wax as I described in the linked answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a random orbital tool and admit that you're a crazy person.  :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it's difficult to make the car worse by trying to take care of it.  If you do a little research and invest the elbow grease, you'll be driving something you can be proud of for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T20:46:34.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2014-12-20T23:25:34.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the amplifier. All the other modules produced the correct signal. I exchanged the amplifier to a friend's device from E39, it worked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3171" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T23:25:34.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T00:16:05.250" Score="7" ViewCount="2018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the fuel injectors off of a wrecked Volvo 850 GLT 1996. I was testing them to see if they still worked by simply supplying voltage to them, and they do. I noticed that when I increase or decrease the voltage, the pulsing sound coming from them doesn't seem to change. Are fuel injectors designed to provide a constant flow of fuel no matter what the voltage? And the ECU just controls how long voltage is supplied to them? What I mean is, is the injector like a DC motor, speed increases with voltage, or is the &quot;speed&quot; constant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7826" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:08:52.250" Title="How are fuel injectors controlled?" Tags="|engine|volvo|repair|electronic-control-module|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T00:16:49.813" Score="3" ViewCount="30966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2005 Nissan Altima which has been having alternator/battery problems for past 1 year. My car has 112,000 miles on it. My car battery was past warranty so I had the battery replaced about a year back. The battery went bad in about 6 months (or car would require jump starts all the time). I went back to the shop and they replaced my battery as it was within warranty. However, same thing happened again in about 4 months time. This time they said they wont replace the battery as alternator might be bad and would do an electric test to confirm. They did alternator test and confirmed that nothing is wrong with alternator and I should take the car to a nissan dealership; they told me Nissans are known for their electrical problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of going to dealership (as that seemed a lot expensive) I took the car to another mechanic. He said he thinks alternator could be bad even if electric test does not say so as he heard a cranking noise once from the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I agree to his advise and get my alternator replaced? Is this a known problem in any of other Altimas or Nissans? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra information about my usage; I used to drive this car a lot - but these days for past 1 year or so - I drive it only about 2-3 miles a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7838" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T04:35:32.543" Title="Nissan Altima Alternator/Battery Problems" Tags="|battery|nissan|alternator|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14681" CreationDate="2014-12-21T03:08:52.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The injector has a plunger/pintle which is controlled by an electromagnet. The humming you heard is from that. The plunger/pintle has a spring which pushes back against the electromagnet so when the power is shut off, the plunger will close and stop the flow of fuel. This causes the hum. Here is an example of how an injector is built:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mdgO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the power is turned on, the electromagnet attracts the (in this picture it's labeled &quot;magnet&quot;) plunger/pintle which opens the flow. The computer energizes the electromagnet for as long as needed, according to the fuel map to achieve the amount of fuel output. An electromagnet can energize with a small amount of current, but will be stronger with more. Fuel output is a factor of three different things. Fuel pressure, size of the injector (how much it can flow for a period of time, usually at a given pressure), and the length of time an injector is left open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When testing old injectors, while testing the electromagnet is part of that, the bigger part is flow, flow consistency across all injectors, and checking for leakage. This is usually done on a fuel injector flow bench. This is specialized equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:08:52.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2014-12-21T04:51:26.673" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am using an OBD-II sensor and the Andriod Torque too. it shows me 22 trip mpg on 4.8 chevy express cargo van. I don't think it's real. this number stays the same no matter how I drive - highways or stop-n-go city traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T04:51:26.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14687" CreationDate="2014-12-21T07:16:54.820" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had an issue with my 2008 4runner. The engine light came on, and so I pulled over and checked the oil level.  It seemed to not have any, so I added a quart.  I looked under the car and saw that it was splattered all over the ground.  I checked the oil plug and it is still in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7842" LastEditorUserId="7842" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T07:56:30.800" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T15:31:12.550" Title="Huge oil leak but plug still there" Tags="|toyota|oil|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14686" CreationDate="2014-12-21T15:31:12.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it pours straight out when you pour it in, you should be able to see where it is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So get another quart of oil, place a tray down to catch the leaking oil and pour the new oil in. Now check around the oil filter, oil drain plug, any other sump plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T15:31:12.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T16:59:21.383" Score="0" ViewCount="5205" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which car oil should I use for Sonata 2004? How much and how often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T20:04:41.427" Title="Which Car oil to use for Sonata 2004?" Tags="|oil-change|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14666" CreationDate="2014-12-21T19:05:35.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it normal to attach a catalytic converter using u-bolts? Or when i replace it should I have it welded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not normal to utilize u-bolts (muffler clamps) on catalytic converters. They are most often welded in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T19:05:35.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14688" CreationDate="2014-12-21T20:04:41.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several factors involved here, such as which engine/transmission your car has (GLS/LX models may be different). Also, what type of driving is done (normal/severe). Before you discount &quot;severe&quot; driving, most people fall under this category and don't even realize it. With that said, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hyundaiusa.com/maintenance-schedule/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hyundai's website&lt;/a&gt;, you should be changing you oil every 3,000 miles. It looks as though the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cararac.com/engine_oil/hyundai/sonata.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;type of oil&lt;/a&gt; should be a 10w-40 semi-synthetic oil. If you have &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; question about that, look at the filler cap on your engine. In most cases it will say right on the top exactly which type of oil you should be using. If you are in an extreme cold environment (below -9F), you should consider switching to a 5w-30 during that time of year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T20:04:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14708" CreationDate="2014-12-21T21:07:41.823" Score="2" ViewCount="2632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this car that does not start and seems like a battery problem at first, when you turn the key it doesn't turn on and it sounds like the battery is fading, but when i chek the voltage it show above 12 volts, so the battery seems to be ok, I checked the starter voltage and it shows above 11 volts, it starts if you charge it with another car connected to it, I've been told it's the starter the cause, how can I be sure if is one thing or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I've got some trouble with the battery discharging because a ligth problem and I disconected it a couple of times but it worked just fine when reconected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7845" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:28:11.023" Title="Batery is above 12 volts but car ignition fades" Tags="|battery|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14694" CreationDate="2014-12-22T02:47:48.073" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was making scratchy metal noise when turning left coming from the back. I checked the bottom of the car and found the issue. I don't fully know how to address it what the part's name is and if it's safe to drive. &#xA;There is a stick coming from the shocks that is suppose to attach to some metal frame. &#xA;I attached the pictures? I hope it is an easy fix and diy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFl7c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above pic. is the faulty part and is missing some type of a bolt. It's back driver's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i3rsk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is the good one. It's on the back passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think I can replace it on the go or do I need to put down the shocks first. Is this more work for a repair shop? I'd like to do it myself as long as I don't need to put down the shocks as I don't have proper tools for it. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7846" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T03:17:07.823" Title="Ford Taurus 01 shock holder problem" Tags="|suspension|parts|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14693" CreationDate="2014-12-22T03:17:07.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be a relatively easy repair, as long as you have the tools to do it. The part you are looking for is called the sway bar (or stabilizer bar) bushings and links. You'll want to get a complete set of them (eight bushing halves, two link rods, two nuts, two sleeves and eight washers). As an example, you can get a set of these from RockAuto.com for under $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drive with it this way, but I wouldn't do it much. If you need to use the car to take it down to the parts house to get the parts, then it shouldn't be an issue. Plan to get this done as soon as possible, though. Your steering stability is affected by not having this in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the parts set you're looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajaeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T03:17:07.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T17:52:31.413" Score="3" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTD3y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving along when I noticed a sound in my rear wheel. I stopped and found this inside. I'm unsure if I've went over it or it's fell off my car. Can anyone identify it please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Renault Clio Initiale 2007. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7852" LastEditorUserId="7852" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T21:10:18.653" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T00:24:28.490" Title="Found this in my wheel" Tags="|wheels|rust|renault|clio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2014-12-22T19:12:40.283" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the only way to reverse while the car moves is if you change from d to n then r but do not accelerate or the car will use its momentum and transfer that physical energy directly to the engine which will cause the transmission parts to suffer greatly (specially the clutch, with standard Automatic transmissions, not CVT.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7854" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T19:12:40.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T20:07:06.680" Score="1" ViewCount="23868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 97 acura tl and when I turn the car on it has a high pitch squeal. It only does it when I start the vehicle. What could be wrong? Thank u in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7855" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T13:49:48.080" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T05:05:49.653" Title="Squealing sound when I start car" Tags="|belt|acura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14699" CreationDate="2014-12-22T21:05:52.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your serpentine belt is squealing on the alternator. One of two possible causes for this. Either your serpentine belt is worn out or your tensioner pulley is not doing it's job (tensioning the serpentine belt). The pulley can wear out over time allowing the belt to slip a little. At startup there is a heavy load placed on your alternator, which causes it to squeal on the belt. Once the belt is warmed up, it can grab a little better, plus the demand on the alternator will have subsided some, which will allow it to stop squealing. Replace the belt first, as I would put a much higher probability on this being the problem (plus it's a lot easier and cheaper to replace).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T17:33:57.043" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:33:57.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T21:49:52.203" Score="2" ViewCount="3244" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbSEJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear hatch latch&quot;&gt; I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and the rear hatch latch is missing the bolts that hold it in place.the rear end still closes and latches, but without the bolts it rattles and the sensor says it is not closed. Does anyone know the size, length, or anything about these bolts??? Are they fine threaded? And any idea where I can pick some up?? I have tried a few different sizes but believe that it is a fine tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SL4Tf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bolt holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7803" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T15:05:29.687" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T18:29:43.087" Title="98 jeep cherokee rear hatch latch bolt size?" Tags="|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14696" CreationDate="2014-12-23T00:24:28.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like that's a piece of your &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=rotor+dust+shield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brake rotor's dust shield&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/14696/found-this-in-my-wheel?noredirect=1#comment17613_14696&quot;&gt;techturtle said&lt;/a&gt;, its lack doesn't pose an immediate danger, but since it keeps debris out of the brakes, you should get it replaced at your earliest convenience to avoid undue wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any specific knowledge of your car, but if replacing it does not involve moving the caliper, it would be straightforward to do yourself, if you're so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T00:24:28.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14704" CreationDate="2014-12-23T13:38:09.580" Score="4" ViewCount="99729" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday on the way to work my &lt;strong&gt;2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD&lt;/strong&gt; with the &lt;strong&gt;4.8L V8 Vortec&lt;/strong&gt; engine started flashing a check engine light. I read it and it was a &lt;strong&gt;P0300&lt;/strong&gt; Random/Multiple Misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had experienced a slightly rough idle previously (nothing serious) and had been unable to track it down. I replaced the PCV valve as a course of standard maintenance and it seemed to help get the idle back down, but still slightly rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also replaced the spark plugs and plug wires, and replaced the alternator on warranty for an unrelated issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I got the check engine light, I started doing some more diagnosis with a bluetooth-OBDII reader which is when I found that I had misfires only on &lt;strong&gt;cylinders 2, 5, 6, and 8&lt;/strong&gt;. Since it was on separate banks, I could find no commonality of items to replace, so I tried the following things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced coil pack in cylinder 2 because it had the highest misfire count, no effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the EGR valve, also with no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;did the carb test to look for vacuum leaks in a few places on the intake manifold with no results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unplugged to MAF to see if the idle improved and it did not (although I didn't try a load test with the unplugged MAF.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I'm stuck and about ready to give up on this one and take it to my mechanic, but I was wondering if there was something else I should try or if anyone has any thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side note:&lt;/strong&gt; I only see the misfires at high RPMs (&gt;1500), so could I drive it home if I take it very slowly and rarely open the throttle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T06:05:48.967" Title="Random Cylinder Misfire in Cylinders 2, 5, 6, and 8; P0300; Chevy Silverado 1500 4WD" Tags="|chevrolet|truck|misfire|silverado|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2014-12-23T14:59:38.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think at this point you have three areas to look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, and a lot tougher to diagnose, you need to check the ground situation of the engine. Make sure all of your ground straps are in good working order and well connected. There are plenty of ground straps, so search your engine bay over and see what's going on. You'll also need to ohm out the grounds going to the injectors and coil packs. Check to ensure all of the grounds are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, it seems to me the crankshaft position sensor or the cam position sensor may be having issues. I'm unsure how to test these to see if they are the issue, so don't go jumping on these first. I know a stealership could scan these for you, but don't get caught up in the R-n-R game (Remove and Replace --- it gets expensive fast). The cam &amp;amp; crankshaft sensors can cause the computer to throw misfire codes if they are intermittent, and not throw the specific code showing these sensors are going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T14:59:38.677" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14701" CreationDate="2014-12-23T15:04:54.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to figure this out is to go down to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer's parts shop and have them look it up for you. Describe them exactly what you are looking for and they will have a computer screen to match the part for you. I wouldn't buy the part there, because the &quot;stealership&quot; will charge you an exorbitant amount of money for each bolt (probably along the lines of 5x what you'd buy something comparable from Lowe's/Home Depot ... something which may not be exact, but will work). Another thought is to go to a pick-a-part yard or any junkyard for that matter. Tell them exactly what you need and they'll sell it to you cheap, probably in the $2-3 for a the exact bolts, just used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T15:04:54.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11926" CreationDate="2014-12-23T16:39:24.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very common Honda problem, actually but usually is more symptomatic on older models EF's (late 80s to early 90s).   I would suggest changing out the main relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T16:39:24.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-23T18:48:34.213" Score="5" ViewCount="18999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2006 Pontiac G6, 3.5 V6 with 155,000 miles. I was coming to a gentle stop when the ABS activated, and the brake pedal vibrated as though I lost traction. Before accelerating, both ABS and T/C lights came on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was 40℉, wet roads, and the water temp was normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the fuses, and everything was intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to fix the issue that doesn't require me to see a mechanic or get a computer reading from the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the past few days, the abs/tc lights have been turning off. They come on when I go over bumps, starting the car, and turn off when I push on the connector attached to the ABS module. Does anyone have a diagram of the connector and where each wire should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T00:44:49.867" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T00:44:49.867" Title="2006 Pontiac G6, 3.5 V6 - ABS and Traction Control Lights in Pontiac G6" Tags="|electrical|brakes|abs|warning-light|traction-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14692" CreationDate="2014-12-23T19:28:11.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because the battery shows &gt; 12 volts, it does not reliably mean that the battery is not the issue. How old is the battery? If &gt; 4 years, it's probably time to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your car is not putting out enough Cold Crank Amps (CCA). There are two things you should do to eliminate the battery being the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the battery on a load tester and check the amps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the battery temporarily (e.g. jump start pack with the battery terminals removed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:28:11.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14669" CreationDate="2014-12-23T19:30:34.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If no fuses are blown or it still doesn't work after changing them, there is likely permanent damage, take a look at this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=547692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=547692&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to liability they probably are liable, but proving that and then getting them to pay may be difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7861" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:30:34.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14674" CreationDate="2014-12-23T22:51:15.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First,&#xA;you need to change the brake fluid ASAP. This is an hygroscopic oil with an high boiling point. Even if you are not using the car, it slowly absorbs water and contaminants from small leaks and deterioration of the brake circuit. Water, having a low boiling point, will degrade the performance of the circuit up to making them very low. It is &lt;strong&gt;mandatory&lt;/strong&gt; to change DOT4 brake fluid every 2 years. Efficient brakes are much more important than a new shiny paint job or whatever else done to your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake feel is still unsatisfactory, you can try changing the rubber hoses going from the brake lines to the calipers with braided hose cables. These will in general inflate less under pressure and provide better feel and harder brake response. If this again fails to provide the feel you want from the brakes, a complete re-hauling of the braking system may be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T22:51:15.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-23T23:05:56.073" Score="3" ViewCount="25624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it difficult?  How do I know the exact location? Just purchased a replacement but I want to make sure I'm opening up the right compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.5L V-6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of what I believe it is. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nlm8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7862" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T20:14:26.980" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T01:46:20.670" Title="How to change a thermostat on a 2007 Pontiac G6" Tags="|pontiac|diy|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T01:31:40.230" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 98 bravada is fine in the morning when I first start to drive it but after about 20 min or so it starts to sputter and also sputters while it's idling. Does this sound like it could be a plugged cat or sensor? The fuel pump and filter are about 2 years old and I hooked up my obd2 tester and there was no codes as also the check engine light has not come on. Anyone know what this could be or where I should start? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7863" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T13:36:15.763" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T13:36:15.763" Title="98 olds bravada sputters when it warms up" Tags="|rough-idle|oldsmobile|bravada|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T16:17:35.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T07:45:06.677" Score="2" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my &lt;strong&gt;1996 Golf MK3&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;low beams stopped working&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the &lt;strong&gt;fuses&lt;/strong&gt;, that's not it (swapped 1 &amp;amp; 2, low beams, for 11 &amp;amp; 12, high beams).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wiggled the ignition switch and the headlights didn't flicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems &lt;strong&gt;very unlikely&lt;/strong&gt; that both bulbs went out at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7694" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T08:43:17.853" Title="Low beams don't work on VW Golf MK3" Tags="|electrical|vw|headlight|golf|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14713" CreationDate="2014-12-24T07:45:06.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It was the bulbs.&lt;/strong&gt; I have read of the same phenomenon on other sites -- &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; low beams go at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that either there is something about the electrical system that causes the second bulb to go once the first is gone, or...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One headlight goes out but you don't notice because you still have one that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one goes and you notice that both are out and cry &quot;what are the chances?!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7694" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T07:45:06.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T12:37:05.103" Score="1" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed my coolant level was down to the min line on the reserve tank. So I decided to raise the level up between the two lines. I got the proper coolant for the car and started filling. I did not notice just how fast the tank was filling up and &lt;strong&gt;ended up with a level which was between the max line and the top of the tank.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about using a baster to take the fluid out, but my wife (bless her heart) decided to throw our baster out, and I don't have anything at hand that can pump the fluid out. I searched on the internet for solutions but the first suggestion everybody gives is &quot;use a baster&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I fix the fluid level without using a pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7860" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T13:43:40.933" Title="Overfilled my Insight 2010 coolant reserve tank. How can lower the fluid level back without a pump?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14715" CreationDate="2014-12-24T12:37:05.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the top of the tank, you'll see a screw that holds the tank to the car frame. You can't miss it. This is &lt;em&gt;the only screw that holds the tank&lt;/em&gt;. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find an appropriate container for the fluid you are going to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unscrew the tank cap and take the tube out. Unscrew the screw that holds the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the tank out and dump the fluid into the container you found in the first step.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the tank back in. There is a plastic tab at the bottom of the tank that fits into a slot. Make sure that the tab fits in the slot before you screw the screw back in. Screw the cap back on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dispose of the waste fluid according to your local laws. In most jurisdictions, it is considered hazardous waste that must be disposed of specially.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7860" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T12:37:05.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14715" CreationDate="2014-12-24T13:34:47.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what type of vehicle and the coolant overflow reservoir type (pressurized/non-pressurized), the easiest way to accomplish this is to take the small hose the fluid travels to the overflow through off at the radiator and suspend it down below the level of the reservoir. Gravity will do the rest. Of course you need to drain it into the appropriate container and dispose of it properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle has a pressurized type reservoir, you need to first, relieve the pressure on the system, then find a suitably small hose line as described above. You'd want to remove it from the point farthest away from the coolant tank. Drain as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T13:34:47.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4561" CreationDate="2014-12-24T16:39:54.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not increasing the load on the engine then mileage(fuel-efficiency) remains unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary source of electrical energy on &lt;strong&gt;Honda CD100SS&lt;/strong&gt; is the &lt;strong&gt;magneto&lt;/strong&gt;, an alternator that cuts magnetic flux from permanent magnets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This alternator generates AC following the principle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_induction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electromagnetic Induction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A battery is used as the source of DC. Battery gets charging current from AC generated from magneto after going through Rectifier-Regulator circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AC so generated is fed through a Rectifier/Regulator, which performs AC-to-DC conversion, clipping higher voltages etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In most Indian motorcycles headlight is powered by AC coming out of regulator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming to your question, when you replace say a &lt;strong&gt;35W(12v)&lt;/strong&gt; bulb with &lt;strong&gt;50W(12v)&lt;/strong&gt; then new bulb will not glow to its full capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you rewind the stator-coil to produce more current then technically more load is on the engine. This load from &lt;strong&gt;stator(magneto)&lt;/strong&gt; will always be there whenever engine is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4647" LastEditorUserId="4647" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T15:50:55.507" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:50:55.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14711" CreationDate="2014-12-24T18:17:43.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No that's not the location. It's in the thermostat housing (attached to the engine) that the outlet radiator hose attaches too. This hose runs from the right side (passenger side) of the radiator to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the cooling system &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the air cleaner outlet duct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat housing&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWYAm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bolt and bolt/stud holding the housing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g33Tf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the gasket surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install new thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install new gasket, with gasket sealer if you prefer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install in the reverse order, Making sure not to over torque the bolts. Spec is 10 N.m (89 inch pounds) or about 7 foot pounds. IE snug or you'll strip the threads out of the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill with 50/50 DEX-COOL and distilled water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-pontiac-g6-thermostat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T20:32:11.347" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:32:11.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12386" CreationDate="2014-12-24T18:21:16.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little late to the game on this, but those fans are controlled by a radiator sensor and a fan timer unit. My first guess is that your radiator sensor (lower right side) is bad, but you would need to pull and test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1381" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T18:21:16.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T23:22:52.347" Score="3" ViewCount="5321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my 2005 RM125 dirt bike the other day when it bogged down all of a sudden. I noticed the spark plug had backed out of the head, thus causing the stall. I pulled the spark plug all the way out and realized that the small bottom piece of the plug was missing.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np676.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidently it had broken off inside the cylinder. I got the bike home and fished around in the spark plug hole with a magnet to try and retrieve the piece, but I couldn't find it. I even took the head off and fished around some more. I'm about to give up. Is it safe to crank the bike without making sure I find the little piece, or should I make sure and find it before riding again? I just don't want it to cause serious damage inside the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T23:04:06.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:05:12.903" Title="Bottom piece of spark plug broke off in motorcycle engine" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|sparkplugs|suzuki|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T01:28:21.917" Score="3" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my car it won’t start. Just a little background on my car, I have a 2008 Nissan Versa and I have a cold air intake installed in my car with a hydro shield covering the air filter and the area is fully cover by fender lining sides and bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the car not starting I drove in the rain to get gas from Valero (I usually go to Arco) to work and parked my car outside for 6 hours and started the car with no problems and drove home. The next day I reparked my car in the garage again no problems except I smelled gasoline when i stepped out of the car and left the car in my garage for a whole day. The following afternoon I turned on my car and it cranked and sounds like a whirring sound but car won’t start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it towed to the dealership and they did a engine diagnosis and couldn’t find anything wrong but took off the starter to give to the shop to have it tested. He also mentioned that there could be water in the engine because I do have a cold air intake, but I don’t believe it could be hydrolock because I didn’t drive through a flood or deep puddles. What are your thoughts on why my car won’t start? Thank you for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7870" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:08:53.320" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T18:15:49.090" Title="Car won't start problem" Tags="|engine|starting|nissan|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6901" CreationDate="2014-12-25T01:34:38.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just at my mechanics getting an oil change on my 2003 crv any after the work was done I started up the car and bang a clicking noise. so with the oil being changed and air flter we figured it has to be one of the two, sre enough the hose that he had to remove that is attached to the engine and air filter was not replaced properly but before taking it off the air filter end which was wear the problem was coming from we decided to squeeze and moe it slighty and sure enough when we oved it into a certain position no more clicking, fixed!!! so maybe it was not air tight and the ecu could not read it properly was my mechanics reasoning I hope this very minor fix helps!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7871" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T01:34:38.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14723" CreationDate="2014-12-25T03:26:27.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either it's in there or it isn't. If you've taken the head off, you should see the top of the piston and know if it is there or not. You don't want to refire the thing without knowing if it is there or not. &lt;strong&gt;If it is in the cylinder it could rub on the side of the cylinder wall and cause damage.&lt;/strong&gt; Scoring of the wall and damage to the piston are the two big issues here. I have seen a lot of times where small debris like this will get blown right out of the exhaust. Depending on whether the RM is a two stroke (they were when I was familiar with them) will probably make a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T23:05:12.903" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:05:12.903" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12581" CreationDate="2014-12-25T10:31:20.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just remembered that I hadn't posted an answer to this and thought I would just in case someone else has a similar situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking off the ignition cylinder myself (was easier than I thought). Turns out that the ignition cylinder had a a metal rod inside of it that is supposed to turn when you turn the key but it was broken so instead of turning it just jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought a new ignition cylinder from a wrecker for $60 NZD and it was good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7122" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T10:31:20.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T10:47:41.933" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have been having some issues with my Mazda Capella 2000 occasionally just switching off while I am at low revs. It doesn't often happen but when it does it seems to happen multiple times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always happens at low revs, it happens while driving during things like stopping at an intersection or slowing down to turn into a driveway. It gives no warning when it stops, it just switches off, No choking noises like the engine is having trouble or any other indication that it is going to happen. The battery light turns on (like it is before you start the engine) and when I start the engine it always starts again straight away (but the problem often persists for awhile and if you don't rev it it will switch off again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't seem to make a difference whether the car is hot or cold. I thought that perhaps it might happen when I park on a slope but this might be coincidence as parking on a slope doesn't always seem to cause the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what could possibly be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any questions please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7122" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T13:17:59.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:17:59.970" Title="Engine randomly turns off on Mazda Capella 2000" Tags="|engine|mazda|stall|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6351" CreationDate="2014-12-26T17:49:56.313" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with odometer fraud and disabling the immobilizer there is always the option to desolder the EEPROM in the radio, put it in a programmer, dump it and look through it with a hex editor to find where the code is or just modify the firmware to completely bypass the code check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T17:49:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13264" CreationDate="2014-12-26T20:48:19.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like segments of the clock numbers are permanently on. Most number displays are a combination seven segments which, if all are lit, would display a figure eight. You turn on any combination of the lights to create the separate numbers. If any of those are permanently on, it is going to give you strange looking numbers. I don't know why this happens, and believe the only way to fix it is to replace the clock. If it were just a &quot;cold&quot; thing, I would think it would go back to normal once the entire car was heated up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T20:48:19.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13481" CreationDate="2014-12-26T20:50:51.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering your edit, I'd bet all you need is a new terminal, or at least one you can tighten on the post. Since it's now starting correctly with the terminal cleaned up, this should be an easy fix. If you leave it loose, it will continue to cause you issues in the future of the same type you were having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T20:50:51.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T22:41:49.900" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does an oil with an API Rating of SN (the most current) meet the standards of all proceeding ratings (SL/SJ in particular). The generator specifies &quot;SL/SJ&quot; but I'm having trouble finding it. Can I use &quot;SN&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7878" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T17:06:47.160" Title="Oil specification for my gasoline powered generator" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-27T00:24:36.587" Score="-1" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Honda xr650l it won't start ,it only starts when we attach a fuel pump to it(easily).when the fuel pump is removed it won't start again but it's not made to use a fuel pump we took down d carburetor cleaned it more than once it still won't start I really need help. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated thanks (HELP!!!!!!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7879" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T10:01:02.173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T10:01:02.173" Title="1998 Honda xr650l starting problem" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-27T06:45:19.927" Score="1" ViewCount="3634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that the MAF sensor output voltage increases as RPM increases. The ECU uses this voltage to determine other things, like idle RPM, ignition timing, fuel injectors, etc. Where can I find the correlation formula or graph for particular vehicles like Ford E-150's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, throttle position sensors work in the same way. They output a voltage to the ECU, and the ECU uses that voltage to determine many things. Since they are pretty much all electronic nowadays, where can I find the correlation formula of say, the throttle position sensor output voltage and ignition timing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might be a complicated question, so thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7826" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T16:16:17.143" Title="MAF sensor output signal vs. RPM?" Tags="|electrical|sensor|maf|throttle-position-sensor|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14739" CreationDate="2014-12-27T16:16:17.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you misunderstand the purpose of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor (and whoever wrote what you read doesn't understand, as well). The purpose of the MAF is to read the amount of incoming air. As the incoming air flows over the heated sensor, it cools the sensor which regulates the amount of electricity which can flow through it. It is in no way associated with the RPM, nor does it read the RPM of the engine. The only way that an increase of RPM would affect the MAF output is because inherently there is more air going through the MAF when the RPM's increase. This is not a direct reading. If it were as you are suggesting, there wouldn't be a need for a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the ECU doesn't use the voltage of the MAF to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;determine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the idle RPM. The ECU has a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; idle RPM it tries to maintain by adjusting the timing, plotting the fuel injector pulse width against the fuel map, and adjusting the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as any correlation formula or graph, there isn't going to be a set one. And Ford is going to maintain these as proprietary data. Each vehicle model is going to have a different one. You would have to take tuner software, read the tune for the specific vehicle you want to examine, then create the correlation from the data you extracted. Let's just call it &lt;em&gt;reverse engineering&lt;/em&gt;. It would be a generous tuner who would put this information out there for common consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T16:16:17.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2014-12-27T16:22:46.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are fine to use the API SN rated oils. Here is an excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;API website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Introduced in October 2010 for &lt;strong&gt;2011 and older vehicles&lt;/strong&gt;, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T16:22:46.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14744" CreationDate="2014-12-27T18:22:00.413" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Subaru Legacy L with the EJ251. I rebuilt the engine because of a thrown rod. There was significant damage to the shortblock, which resulted in a significant amount of oil escaping the tailpipe. I replaced the shortblock and rebuilt the engine. After the first ~1hr of engine time there was no oil visibly escaping the tailpipe. I spent about 500 miles resolving a transmission issue and test driving, and just took the car for the first few highway drive tests. After a recent highway drive I got the following codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0420 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=P420%20subaru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0457 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=P457%20subaru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These both point to problems in the exhaust land, but I am not sure how to interpret these into a fix. I think the oil damaged the sensor(s) and cat. I don't know much about exhaust. What is the best way to address these codes? (I live in a state without emissions inspections.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7882" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T19:08:42.210" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T00:36:54.913" Title="Emissions codes after oil through exhaust" Tags="|subaru|exhaust|p0420|p0457|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12028" CreationDate="2014-12-27T18:53:28.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bolt is so obscured that vise grips and welding are not feasible, and so stripped that impact doesn't make sense (I am guessing it is too stripped), I usually do the following. &lt;strong&gt;If it's very stripped, you might want to skip ahead to step 8.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Look ahead to step four; you'll probably want to take one of your bolts to the auto parts store before starting this process.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Torque down the other bolts in order (follow manual).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add about 5 ft*lb to the bolts nearest to the stripped bolt (this is intended to unload the culprit bolt) and don't plan to re-use the head bolts because they're overstretched now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the next size up allen key or torx bit that will almost fit into it and hammer it on. I'd recommend doing this with a bit you don't care about, preferably impact rated due to hardness. I'd recommend 1/2&quot; drive for this bit if space allows. If you're wondering what will fit, see this diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/It7yQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;triple square versus 12 point socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That diagram shows the difference between your bolt (left) and a 12 point socket (right). Notably, an allen key or torx bit would fit into this. If your fastener is standard, use a metric (and vise versa) to get a size that's just a little bit off (i.e. a little bit bigger).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you're done swinging the hammer, soak everything in penetrating oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're feeling confident after hammering, feel free to try removing it &lt;strong&gt;BY HAND&lt;/strong&gt; now. If you use impact tools with this technique, you will successfully extract the bit from the bolt and continue having a bad day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you feel it start to strip, stop and apply more penetrating oil and apply some heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If that strips out or you don't feel confident in the seating, consider trying a different sacrificial tool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the above doesn't work, clean up the bolt with brake cleaner, get a new sacrifical bit, and JB weld the two together following the above process. Wait at least 8 hours and then take it off by hand. Don't forget to apply liberal penetrating oil (after the JB weld is set) and I would personally apply heat to the bolt only at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bolt will be out. On reassembly, chase the hole gently with a tap and blow it out with an air compressor. If it took your block's threads with it, get a helicoil, install it, and use a lot of oil (maybe even anti-seize) on the coil threads when you re-attach the head if you want to be able to remove it. When you go to try removing the bolt from the helicoil in the future, it will likely take aluminum with it. Helicoils are nightmares in disguise. Seriously consider never removing the head again if it comes to this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7882" LastEditorUserId="7882" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T19:22:05.493" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T19:22:05.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14742" CreationDate="2014-12-27T19:41:40.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;DTC P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank-1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DTC P0457 - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First let's look at the P0420 causes include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catalytic converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear O2 sensor circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer compares the pre- and post-cat O2 sensors readings to determine if the cat is working effectively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of an O2 sensor code, it's likely an exhaust leak or a damaged converter. I would check for an exhaust leak. If that isn't the problem I would put about 3000 miles on it to see if the converter will clear up before condemning the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's look at the P0457, causes include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose or missing gas cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum lines cracked missing or misplaced &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filler pipe packing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purge control solenoid valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure control solenoid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Canister&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer pulls a vacuum on the fuel tank and measures the leak rate. If this rate is too high, it sets the code. Any leak in the fuel system on the vapor side will set this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering you just put a short block in, I would concentrate on finding a vacuum leak. A misplaced or disconnected line. Vacuum lines become brittle with age and simply moving them around during the engine rebuild may have caused one to crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T00:36:54.913" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T00:36:54.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14745" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14746" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" Score="0" Body="Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off)" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T19:46:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2014-12-28T01:09:00.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old forum, but I need to comment. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that I bought for my daughter to use. The battery was brand new when I got the Jeep, but soon after purchasing it I would find if it sat a few days without driving it the battery would be completely dead. I searched online, asked my mechanic friends and didn't hear of anything that made sense to me. Today, I had some time and an empty garage so I again tackled this annoying issue in hopes to get to the bottom of it and finally figured it out :2thumbsup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read a lot about the MUX/T TOW fuse that is under the hood as that is where my draw was coming from, about 175 mA. I read that someone had a bad door switch in the back door (hatch) so I tore in to the door and while having the DC amp-meter installed in the 50 amp fuse location, I started unplugging different connections under the plastic cover of the back hatch. After about a minute, I noticed the amp draw dropped to 12 mA, so I started plugging things back together and found the latch switch for the glass window was the culprit. &#xA;I left the hatch switch unplugged to avoid that problem later.&#xA;I will crack another beer and maybe I will attempt one of my other many tasks.&#xA;:cheers2: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7883" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:39:18.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:39:18.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T03:35:31.257" Score="3" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello so I have a 1988 chevy 1500 with a 350 in it. I drove it for about 10 minutes the other day no problem would spin the tires over easy also. The next day I drove it to my grandma's no problem. I go to drive home and its like it has a loss of power and wanting to stall. I will be driving and the engine will just randomly act like it wants to die, then be fine. Then it will do it again and if i stop completely it will die. Also when this happens with the engine sputtering I can press on the gas and I will not accellerate but it will keep the engine alive. Please help me &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T23:49:11.447" Title="Engine stalling/not wanting to go" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2014-12-28T15:56:15.553" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the answer is to install a little teflon spacer between steel and aluminum just like we do on transport trucks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7889" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T15:56:15.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14758" CreationDate="2014-12-28T20:26:09.670" Score="4" ViewCount="7203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 chevy cavalier, and just replaced the radiator due to a transmission fluid leak into the antifreeze. I don't know how much fluid was lost because the transmission was designed without a dipstick. The car seems to drive fine so far. I have also heard that adding too much fluid can damage an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if I need to add fluid, and how much fluid, to an automatic transmission with no dipstick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7894" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:38:55.080" Title="How to add transmission fluid with no dipstick?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14757" CreationDate="2014-12-28T21:38:55.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the passenger side of the transmission there is a removable plug. The method used to determine fluid level is similar to checking differential or manual transmission fluid. If fluid leaks out of the hole with the plug removed the fluid is at the proper level. This requires the vehicle to be level, not an easy task considering you may have to jack up the car and remove the tire if you don't have a lift. There are several you tube videos of modifications to make this task easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:38:55.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2014-12-28T21:44:05.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pop off the trim and look at the wires, the two twisted together will be for the speakers. The power locks and windows will all run straight. Twisting speaker wires together helps with interference noise and is done on ford's. From factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7897" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:44:05.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T23:21:15.520" Score="2" ViewCount="10107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a motorcycle accident and when I crashed my knee dented my tank on impact. Needless to say my knee is pretty bad but my tank only has a dent in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a trick for removing a large dent from my gas tank?&lt;/strong&gt; It's steel and kind of small (~2.5 gal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of shoving a motorcycle tube in the tank and then inflating the tube. And I've heard of pressurizing the tank too but if anyone else has any ideas I'm willing to consider them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="6482" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T06:28:00.167" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T06:28:00.167" Title="Remove Dent From Steel Motorcycle Tank" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-tank|dent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-26T15:16:18.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14760" CreationDate="2014-12-29T00:54:09.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only two ways I can think of to remove the dent. One is to put a certain amount of water in the tank (off the bike, of course), and freeze it. I don't know what that &quot;certain amount&quot; is, though. If you put too much water in it, it will split seams and such, so proceed at your own risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second method is to heat the area up with a blow dryer, then hit it quickly with a computer duster compressed air can which is turned upside down. Metal has a memory. When you run it through the quick heat/cool process, it tends to go back to its original shape. Depending on the size of the dent and if there are any creases in the metal will ultimately affect the outcome of how this might work. A crease will not come out this way. It may take several heat/cool cycles to get it all the way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a third way, but that involves buying a new tank, and I guess a fourth of taking it to a body shop to have them do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T03:37:29.747" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T03:37:29.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T03:48:58.607" Score="2" ViewCount="6261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've driven manual transmission for over 2 decades, and I've been braking by downshifting with rev matching for about one decade.  I recently heard a radio show host advise people to drive carefully in snowy/icy conditions, and to brake by downshifting.  To me, it seems to be risky to do this because sudden deceleration (or sudden forces in any direction) can cause tires to slip.  If one does not downshift smoothly, the momentary jerk can contribute to loss of traction.  Apart from preventing acceleration in long descents, is there any reason why downshifting would be advantageous in snowy/icy/slushy conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And manual transmission aside, it seems that even for an automatic, it would be preferable to go into neutral and use the brakes to minimize the risk of losing traction.  Can more experienced winter drivers comment on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I often wondered about the wisdom of downshifting a manual transmission combined with braking.  If you just downshift (with rev matching), the car slows down at its own rate.  Since no fuel is being injected, I visualize this as the dissipation of momentum in the engine, though I'm sure it's more complicated (webpages have described the kinetic energy of the car as being consumed in the compression cycle of the piston).  Regardless of the exact details, if you apply brakes after downshifting, you're &quot;fighting&quot; the natural &lt;em&gt;rate&lt;/em&gt; of deceleration, i.e., you're changing the deceleration because the natural deceleration rate is insufficient.  Obviously, the brakes wear if you impart this additional slowdown, but I do not know whether it wears more than if you shift into neutral and apply the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the days of fuel injection, I would &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; uncertain about which wears the brakes more because (for example) maybe fuel is drawn in to the combustion chamber even though you aren't pressing the accelerator.  I don't know if this really happened back in the day, I'm just describing things that I don't know, and these things make it hard to visualize what happens when you brake after downshifting.  However, if that picture is accurate, then there may still be combustion occurring, albeit perhaps degraded; it is then quite conceivable for braking in-gear to be less effective than braking in neutral.  Note that this does not mean that car accelerates due to the degraded combustion (if there is any); the overall acceleration/deceleration depends on other contributors and detractors.  e.g., (i) degraded combustion, if any, (ii) momentum in the moving engine parts prior to the clutch plate, (iii) momentum due to the physical displacement of the vehicle, (iv) friction due to movement of the vehicle, of which air resistance is one component, (v) dissipation of kinetic energy in the compression stroke, and (vi) braking.  It is this confluence of factors that complicates my mental model of what happens, and makes it hard to conclude whether it is more effective to brake in-gear or in neutral.  If it is in fact less effective to brake in-gear (and I didn't know whether it is when I originally posted this question), that would imply that (i)-(iii) result in large forces, so that its better to eliminate them by going into neutral before apply (vi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely, this would depend on the natural rates of deceleration after downshifting versus going in to neutral, and on what deceleration you actually want.  For example, if you wanted only slightly more deceleration than the natural rate of deceleration after downshifting, then braking in-gear might be the obvious best choice because you would only use the brakes a tiny bit, regardless of whether the natural rate of deceleration in neutral is greater or less.  I say &quot;might be&quot; because, in modelling this situation, one cannot get away from the dependence on multiple factors, such as the 5 listed above   So if (for example) the natural rates of deceleration after downshifting and in neutral are the same, that doesn't mean it would take the same force of stepping on the brakes in both cases to further change the deceleration by the required amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is my best guess at what happens for pre-fuel-inject days; these days, however, the fuel injectors turn off when you aren't pressing the accelerator.  Of the 6 factors listed above, this means that factor (i) is absent, so I'm tempted to conclude that when you brake after downshifting, you aren't fighting any process that is adding to the kinetic energy of the car.  If that's the case, then it seems that braking in-gear can only be better than braking in neutral (for the same deceleration rate).  Unless factor (ii) is a significant contributor to the overall kinetic energy (the brakes will be fighting this component).  Can anyone from a automotive mechanical engineering background confirm or deny this, or shed insight into this in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a long post, and there were a number of requests buried throughout.  I specifically elaborated on my mental models of what could be happening so that respondents could clarify where they were wrong or muddy.  However, the questions need to be summarized:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To avoid loss of traction on slippery roads, is it better to&#xA;  brake in neutral rather than downshifting and braking in-gear?&#xA;  I asked this about both standard and automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On normal roads, is it more effective (and/or less wear on the&#xA;  brakes) to brake in-gear after downshifting, or to brake in&#xA;  neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave various reasons for why I think it's better to brake in neutral for #1, and why it is better to brake in-gear for #2.  However, I was wondering how accurate my mental models were.  I'm hoping that if my reasoning is wrong, the person who corrects me provides clear and convincing explanations of his/her answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7900" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:25:52.833" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:25:52.833" Title="Engine braking vs. braking in neutral on slippery &amp; normal conditions" Tags="|manual-transmission|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-03T20:58:47.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14767" CreationDate="2014-12-29T08:45:10.583" Score="6" ViewCount="38977" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, i had a discussion with someone about tire width. I claimed, that with bigger (wider) tires, a car would have more traction/grip. The person i was discussing this with, agreed with me, up to a certain point. He said, that if the tires were too wide for the car, the opposite would happen, less traction/grip. He also claimed that the chance of aquaplaning would be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts on that were that that mostly depends on the kind of profile of the tire. It seems to me that if the same tire, on another car (fit for that tire width) would provide good traction/grip without increased aquaplaning risk, the same would hold for a narrower tire. I would argue that the traction/grip is a function of contact with the road and thus wider tires equals more traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question thus is: Does having a wider tires (under the same car) provide more traction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7902" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T12:56:46.873" Title="Does a wider tire always mean more grip/traction" Tags="|tires|wheels|car|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2014-12-29T12:37:52.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, both of you are correct. In general terms, a wider tire has a greater contact patch with the ground, so can provide traction. As your friend stated, though, the tread pattern/depth will have a lot to do with how the tire performs during inclement whether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for instance a race tire which is rated at a width of 325mm. With your line of logic, this tire would provide excellent traction for the vehicle. And this would be true, unless the tire was driven on the street where there is water. The car would not have the traction needed to sustain type of safe operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the same 325mm tire and place it on snow. You can expect a loss of traction. In fact, a skinnier tire will work better in snow than a wide tire would. The reason for this (I believe ... no empirical evidence) is because it has more weight per square inch due to the smaller contact patch. It also cuts through to the ground better instead of riding on top of compacted snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other factors involved here as well. If a tire is made to last longer (say made of harder rubber), it may not have as good of traction as a tire of the same width and softer material. Tread patterns themselves have a play in traction. Side wall height, tire flex, and inflation also have a play in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another area to consider is what is the physical dimensions of a tire will you be able to fit under your vehicle? There is a trade-off here as well. Another trade-off is cost, the wider the tire, the more expensive it will be (all other things being equal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there are so many variables when considering traction, you just cannot put a generalized statement upon a single given factor, which is width in your case. To provide the best tire for your application takes research, bringing all of the factors together to determine your best course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T12:37:52.177" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14764" CreationDate="2014-12-29T12:56:03.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apart from preventing acceleration in long descents, is there any reason why downshifting would be advantageous in snowy/icy/slushy conditions? And manual transmission aside, it seems that even for an automatic, it would be preferable to go into neutral and use the brakes to minimize the risk of losing traction. Can more experienced winter drivers comment on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my years of driving in snowy conditions (mountain regions of Montana state in the US), I can tell you that in a rear-wheel drive vehicle, shifting your vehicle into neutral to brake in snow packed road conditions can aid in the deceleration of your vehicle. This, I believe, is due to not having power going to the wheels, which would tend to fight the braking your are trying to accomplish. I'm not sure if this has the same effect in a front-wheel drive car, but have to assume it would be the same. The best bet, however, for winter driving, is to drive to the road conditions. Always give yourself more room to decelerate/accelerate. Never drive too fast. In doing so, leaving your vehicle in drive (whether manual/automatic) will give you the best chances to get out of a bad situation if the need arises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question about engine braking, please read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear&quot;&gt;the thread&lt;/a&gt; ... I believe it will give you most if not all of the answers you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T12:56:03.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14770" CreationDate="2014-12-29T14:44:56.580" Score="5" ViewCount="55353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a replacement part for a 2005 Saturn ION.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be some detachable receptacle type thing to which the gas cap screws in. The gas cap itself is fine, but one of the plastic tabs that holds this receptacle in place has snapped off, and now the entire receptacle is loose and can come out of the gas tank. This exposes the entry point for gasoline into the gas tank, which I assume is fairly dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I search for parts, all that I can seem to find is the cap itself, which I do not need. I need the part to which the cap screws in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this part might be more appropriately named?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlVGa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part that comes out of the gas tank.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture, you can see the part that comes out of the gas tank filler hole. The gas cap is still screwed into it. Notice that it appears as though it is meant to lock into place on the car, but part of the locking mechanism has broken off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJoIL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gas tank orifice with part removed.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the orifice where the part plugs in. I assume this is the top of the filler tube leading to the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4322" LastEditorUserId="4322" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T14:52:28.767" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T14:32:24.580" Title="What is the name of the part to which the gas cap connects?" Tags="|part-identification|fuel-tank|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14769" CreationDate="2014-12-29T15:43:36.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel filler neck or pipe, it connects to a rubber hose (8) that connects to the tank (1). Hose clamps (9) are used to secure the hose. If it come loose from the tank then you need to tighten the clamps. If the filler neck is coming a loose from the fender area then you need to tighten or replace the fasteners there. It doesn't look like it's sold separately  based on the two pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's item 7 in the pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsKgz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saturnparts.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.saturnparts.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image from another site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXusd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmpartsonline.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.gmpartsonline.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of one off a 2006. I see where I think you are talking about it coming apart but I don't think you can get just that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUXN8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justparts.com/Auto_Parts/06-SATURN-ION-FUEL-FILLER-NECK-5993/22885298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.justparts.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T16:47:23.143" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:47:23.143" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T18:46:29.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light was on.  After my car set over the weekend it wouldn't start.  I took the battery down to a shop to be checked and charged.  When I picked it up they said I needed to replace it.  When I put the new battery in the car, the check light was off.  How long before the check light could go back on if it was something else causing a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7906" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T20:10:12.933" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T20:34:25.360" Title="How long after changing a battery will it take for the Engine Check light to come on if there are other issues" Tags="|battery|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14773" CreationDate="2014-12-29T20:19:50.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely it would show up right away. If it was on before, and now it's off, I'd say the problem's fixed. The codes for what ever triggered the CEL would no longer be present due to the lack of battery power, so you cannot just do a scan on the vehicle. You can, however, check to ensure that battery voltage at rest and while the engine is running are ~12.5+vdc and ~14.1-14.5vdc respectively. If the alternator is producing under that or if you see the voltage ticking slowly down, it could very we'll be there is an alternator problem. I doubt it, but it's worth checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T20:34:25.360" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T20:34:25.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T20:44:32.297" Score="4" ViewCount="65369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced rear brake pads and rotors on my 2010 highlander and right after I went to take the car for the test drive the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. There is no leak anywhere. I scanned the car and it says ABS inlet valve coil Left circuit and gave me C1201 code and I was wondering if someone can help me with it. Could the ABS sensor cause the brake pedal to go all the way down to the floor and if not what else could it be other than the master?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not touch the bleeders and no air in The system and the boots are fine.I did a lot of brake jobs and this never happened to me before. The car was fine till I did the brakes and I just did the brake job Luke always and nothing else and I'm hoping its not the master. Any ideas what it could be??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7909" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T19:07:39.713" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T11:37:24.370" Title="The brake pedal goes down to the floor after replacing the rear rotors and pads on my 2010 highlander" Tags="|brakes|highlander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2014-12-29T21:03:43.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you just try to pump the brakes up several times? When you compress the caliper, this leaves a gap between the brake pads and the rotor. If it didn't, it would be very hard to get the new pads/caliper back onto the rotor. So, when you first get behind the wheel, you need to pump the brakes several times to get the caliper piston to the point it is pushing the pad against the rotor. After several pumps, it should bring firmness back to the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T21:03:43.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T21:04:35.027" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hearing an annoying rubbing noise from front right wheel since replacing the front brake pads. I drive my car only occasionally, maybe 1000 km in 2+ months, so I can't say I've driven enough for the new pads to get bedded. To make sure that the noise was indeed coming from the pad contacting the disk I jacked up the car and rotated the wheel and verified that the pads were really contacting the disk surface. The noise was the same. Now I have 2 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal that brake pads are in contact with the brake disk even when the brake pedal is not pressed? I thought the rotor should be able to rotate freely when no braking is applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And the main concern: When I rotate the wheel I can see that it rotates easily for the 90% of the circle, but it gets hard at the rest 10%. So this makes me think that the disk is warped and that's what makes the noise? Am I correct in my suspicion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4555" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T22:26:25.320" Title="Is my brake disk warped?" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T22:32:54.817" Score="3" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;What engine oil does a 1992 Subaru Liberty auto station wagon need? Answers in &quot;W&quot; units please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to add oil and I cannot find a good reference as to what to use - the oil at the garages are 20w/50 w etc and I have no idea what to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T23:47:25.750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T07:07:17.180" Title="what engine oil does a 1992 subaru liberty auto stationwagon need? Answers in &quot;W&quot; units please" Tags="|engine|oil|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T00:05:29.727" Score="1" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 GMC Envoy. It will not turnover or click but all power and lights work. I can hear the fuel pump kick in. When I turn the key nothing happens. I touched the starter with a screwdriver &amp;amp; it started but immediately died. I also changed out the ignition switch (little plug-in box that slides in behind key switch) still nothing. After it sits for couple of days it starts &amp;amp; runs great then try to leave from work same day and the same problem happens. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7913" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T00:13:57.253" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T03:39:04.690" Title="Car won't start but all power works" Tags="|ignition|alternator|starter|gmc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:43:28.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13384" CreationDate="2014-12-30T04:13:22.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be checking the voltage directly at the battery. Battery voltage measurements need to be precise to tell if the battery is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open circuit voltage is as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.66 = 100% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.45 = 75% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.24 = 50% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12.06 = 25% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11.89 = 0% state of charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10.45 - 10.65 = bad cell, battery should be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like that's a smart charger, if so Voltage measurements won't tell you if the battery charger is working correctly. It may help recover the battery depending on the method the charger &quot;maintains&quot; the charge. There are pulse chargers that are suppose to help with a sulfated batteries, and some of the smart chargers use a similar method when maintaining the battery, some go as far as cycling between charging and discharging once it's in the maintenance mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T04:13:22.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14792" CreationDate="2014-12-30T15:56:14.440" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done simple repairs, such as the water pump, alternator, etc on vehicles. Having gone beyond simple maintenance (oil, brakes, spark plugs, etc) I have a collection of very common mechanics tools, such as socket sets, star bits, air impact wrenches, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be replacing my 2001 GMC Savanna 2500 van engine, though, and it looks like I might be able to save $1k - $2k if I can manage it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools or equipment should I plan to borrow or buy for this job that most diy mechanics wouldn't have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T22:24:28.967" Title="What uncommon tools are needed for a GMC Savanna 2500 engine replacement?" Tags="|engine|replace|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14790" CreationDate="2014-12-30T16:05:12.650" Score="4" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic says the car overheated because the radiator cap was not screwed on tightly, and now he wants to replace the whole radiator. Is this really necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7916" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:27:09.550" Title="Does overheating damage the radiator?" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:39:36.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wider tires will give better grip on dry pavement up to a point.  Once the tire gets too wide it won't heat up enough to get good grip.  Also wider tires will be more susceptible to hydroplaning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why motorcycle tires are just about impervious to hydroplaning.  I've ridden my bike in pouring rain at 75 mph with a nearly bald rear tire with no problems.  It's an older bike with a 100 mm wide rear tire, a newer bike with a 200 mm rear tire might have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:39:36.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:00:17.517" Score="1" ViewCount="4695" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time driver here, got my licence quite recently. I'm driving my Mom's Renault 19 this week, but today, the indicators stopped working. More exactly, they work when the engine is not running, but they don't work anymore when the engine is running (don't work = no feedback on the board (light nor sound) and the lights don't light up).&#xA;BUT the hazard warning lights do work no matter the condition!&#xA;I'll precise that today was a fairly cold day in France, the engine may have been humid / cold.&#xA;Also, the car made a noise it does not do otherwise during the trip, like a turbine. It's a little vague so I'm not asking an idea for that one, but may be it's related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7918" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T01:01:43.027" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T01:01:43.027" Title="What could cause indicators to not work while the engine is running and start working when the engine is stopped?" Tags="|renault|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14785" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:01:50.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hazard lights in every car I've ever drive work whether the engine is turned on or not.  The turn signals (indicators) work when the engine is turned on.  It sounds like something is interrupting the power going into the turn signal switch when the engine is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the alternator isn't working and so the engine is lowering the overall system voltage such that it doesn't have enough power to energize the turn signals when the engine is running.  I'd try cleaning the electrical connections going to the turn signal switch.  I'd also make sure that the alternator is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T19:01:50.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:39:07.890" Score="5" ViewCount="1531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Chevy HHR with a stuck dash storage compartment door. I've tried to pry it open with a screwdriver and I've tried to push the obstruction out with some wire. I have no idea how to get it unstuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7919" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T00:58:35.647" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:36:11.390" Title="Stuck storage compartment door" Tags="|chevrolet|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:43:28.260" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the brake pads were improperly installed. Furthermore, the problem seemed to occur far more often when the breaks were wet. I'm not sure if that caused the pads to &quot;slip&quot; more or what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T15:08:45.727" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:08:45.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2014-12-30T21:52:20.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under most circumstances the system would vent the excess pressure via the pressure cap. If the cap is not installed correctly the system cannot vent. I could see where the radiator might be damaged if it was weak to start. Usually a hose or clamp will fail first. It is possible that your mechanic feels the radiator has issues not directly related to the incident that warrants it being replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T21:52:20.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2014-12-30T22:22:22.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you open the bleeders for any reason?  Have you tried bleeding the brakes?  Are you sure there's no tear in the caliper boot?  If they worked fine before the brake job, it would have to be something that happened during the procedure.  ABS sensor seems unlikely to be the cause of your problem.  Most likely air in the brake lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T22:22:22.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14782" CreationDate="2014-12-30T22:24:28.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full size GM van would not be my first choice for an initial engine change. Vans can be problematic as so much of the engine is under the dash. Most of the front has to be removed, grill, core support, radiator, a/c if equipped. You'll need an engine hoist a load leveler, a good floorjack and stands. A good digital camera to take pictures of where things were will be a big help during reassembly. Things to consider before you start. Can you be without the vehicle for a couple weeks (remember you'll be doing this in addition to your regular job). Does it look like the exhaust pipes will come off the manifold. Are the manifold bolts so rusty that they will break. A couple of friends to help with pushing things around. Also consider the investment in the new motor which may not have a warranty if you install it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T22:24:28.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14777" CreationDate="2014-12-30T22:26:25.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is not brake cleaner.  I would take it apart and clean it with the appropriate stuff.  Also can you move your caliper back and forth?  It should be able to &quot;float&quot; or slide back and forth a little on the pins.  If it's not moving, you could have a pad that's dragging and making constant contact (as well as noise) on the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T22:26:25.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-31T00:52:56.180" Score="3" ViewCount="1387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Honda accord and I was driving one day when my radio just went blank. Then it says code on it. So I entered the code and right as I enter the last number the radio makes a beep then the radio goes blank and I can't do anything. No sound nothing on the screen and none of the buttons do anything. I have tried a few times to pull the fuse and put it back in and the same thing keeps happening. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7922" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T09:34:49.797" Title="Honda radio not working" Tags="|honda|accord|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14764" CreationDate="2014-12-31T10:27:30.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The post is very long and contains several questions buried within, I'll try to answer the basic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume we are always talking of braking downhill, since this is the most dangerous scenario. I'll cover only manual transmission vehicles, as the automatic case is much more complicated, as it depends on the kind of automatic transmission. In short, if the automatic is a clutch system (manually activated autos or dual clutch transmissions) which have a manual mode, it is pretty similar to having a manual transmission, except for &lt;strong&gt;(*)&lt;/strong&gt;. I'll assume the vehicle has not automatic speed-controlled descent mode, which most offroads have nowadays and which is very suited to our scenario, even if it is usually limited to a low speed. I'll also assume non-studded winter tyres are used, as I'll cover the most likely &quot;slippery&quot; case: snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Slippery roads&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, one must &lt;strong&gt;distinguish from front and rear wheel drive vehicles&lt;/strong&gt;. In our downhill braking scenario, engine braking only will be much less efficient if the car is rear wheel drive, simple because the braking will not cause weight transfer on the braking rear wheels. With rear wheel drive cars, it is strongly advisable to apply both engine and &quot;foot&quot; braking when downhill. With front wheel drive cars, engine braking may be enough on most descents. Permanent all wheel drive vehicles provide the best engine braking of course.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Why is engine braking better than braking in neutral on slippery surfaces?&lt;/strong&gt; The car's ABS system which prevents wheel lockup cannot work properly at low speeds. Even though ABS systems have actually seen a great improvement in the last decades, the probability of locking the wheels in a slippery (snowy - icy) descent is very high. Engine braking breaks the wheels proportionately to their actual rotation speed: the higher the speed, the higher the braking force. If a wheel locks up, the braking power supplied by the engine is suddenly zero for that wheel, as it will be the wheel with less resistance, and the wheel will start spinning again. So engine braking is actually a &quot;perfect&quot; ABS system when going downhill at low speeds. This does not mean you should not &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; help the braking with foot braking. Using both methods with caution works best. Foot braking only will likely cause wheel lockup, as the ABS system has limited capabilities at low speeds and whithout it you are applying the same amount of braking force to all wheels. Friction between parts and other factors make engine braking less perfect. If the conditions are bad, you can have wheel lockup even when engine braking only. In this case, as any decent offroad driver will know, you should actually &lt;em&gt;accelerate&lt;/em&gt; to restart the locked wheel (pressing the clutch pedal should have a similar effect), as counter-intuitive as it may seem.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(*)&lt;/strong&gt; One should always try to downshift as smoothly as possible, gently possibly braking and/or rev-matching to avoid sudden speed decrease. In manual vehicles, the necessary smoothness can be easily provided simply dosing the amount of clutch travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Normal roads&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non slippery surfaces almost zero the risk of wheel locking (without stopping ), thus eliminating the main reason to prefer engine braking. However, engine braking still provides added control over foot braking. Engine braking will cause more wear on the clutch and flywheel assembly, normal braking will cause more wear to brake discs and pads. Depending on which component is more costly to replace and on the estimated added wear, one could decide which system to use. I personally use a mix of both, always using rev-matching on downshifting to drastically reduce clutch wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, engine braking has a huge advantage to &quot;foot&quot; braking: you don't risk losing your brakes. On long, steep descents, continuous &quot;foot&quot; braking may overheat the braking fluid (incompressible) and cause it to boil, creating vapour bubbles (compressible) which effectively remove any possibility to apply the brakes. This is also the reason why &lt;strong&gt;normal DOT4 brake fluid MUST be changed every two years&lt;/strong&gt;: with age, the boiling point lowers. Despite using engine braking, this happened to me while driving a 1990 ill-mantained campervan down &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vr%C5%A1i%C4%8D_Pass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vrsic Pass&lt;/a&gt;. That was a fun experience, but one I'd prefer not to repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, it is usually better, downhill on good friction surfaces, to apply firmer less frequent braking actions compared to a continuous braking action, which causes more wear to the brakes and more heat to be dumped to the braking fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Effect of the kind of engine on braking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no difference whatsoever on the braking if you have an fuel-injected engine, carburated engine or whatever. Power to the wheels, if not zero, will always be extremely minimal when the accelerator is not pressed. Engine braking will always greatly compensate for that. When performing a very strong braking from medium-to-high speed on good surface, chances are that the limiting factor is not the ABS system nor the friction with the tarmac, but braking power. In this case, engine braking will help reduce stopping distances, if you have time to apply it. It will also provide smoother braking, thus reducing the risk of wheel lockup. This is why engine braking is fundamental in race driving. This however does not hold true for rear wheel drive vehicles which can have a strong weight transfer (high, soft-suspension cars, as most US vehicles), as the added braking force on the rear wheels without added (weight-transfer caused) friction could cause wheel lockup and possibly loss of control of the vehicle. Race cars have little weight transfer when braking thus reducing, but not eliminating, this risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7431" LastEditorUserId="7431" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T10:39:30.397" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T10:39:30.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2014-12-31T23:42:57.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could cause your radiator to leak, I have seen it happen. My past experience when people have over heated their vehicle it seems to make the radiator oxidize really fast. I had a family member who used to over heat their vehicle a lot and with in six months the radiator would be oxidized and leaking really bad. If you have a bad thermostat get it changed as soon as possible because it can create a lot of other problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T23:42:57.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14749" CreationDate="2014-12-31T23:54:43.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had plugged fuel filters do this also. Try putting some fuel injector cleaner through see what happens. I always try the cheapest first and then go from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T23:54:43.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2015-01-01T02:12:55.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open the hood and listen. You can find an automotive stethoscope for more precision. If it's coming from the engine itself, try changing oil weight. If it's coming from the pulley on the left, you could try replacing the pulley. If it's coming from around the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For oil weight, try 30 weight oil. Here in the states, we use OE 5W30 (as stated on the oil fill cap). You can also try using a Honda OE oil filter for improved flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pulley thing happens on my FA5 (K20Z3). It's the idler pulley that replaces the hydraulic power steering pump since we have electric power steering. I had the pulley replaced with a new one, but it didn't change the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum leaks could be coming from the brake booster hose or maybe the crank case pressure hose. Just replace those hoses if you suspect they're the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7928" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T02:12:55.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15471" CreationDate="2015-01-01T15:32:57.937" Score="13" ViewCount="157975" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Subaru WRX 2012 with the base radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; reconnect automatically for the last two years until I changed phones, deleted the old phone profile, then paired the new phone. It does work correctly when phone is selected, but when I restart the car I have to &lt;em&gt;manually&lt;/em&gt; select the phone's profile in the car's bluetooth menu. In the past the phone would always connect and music would play within a few seconds of restarting the car, and I didn't have to do anything manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried other phones to troubleshoot and still have same problem: the phone will pair, and everything will work, but after restarting the car it won't switch to the phone automatically and I have to manually select the phone in the car menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the old behavior back where the car &quot;sees&quot; the phone and switches to it right away when I start the car, continuing a phone call in-car or play music over the speakers seamlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T22:00:39.803" Title="Why does my Subaru not select my paired Bluetooth phone automatically after restarting the car?" Tags="|subaru|audio|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T17:02:04.457" Score="4" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Volvo XC90 2006 and for the past few months every 3 - 4 weeks changing low beam light. Last time even did not last 5 days. Any recommendations why this light is failing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7933" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T00:20:06.167" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T17:28:13.787" Title="Low beam headlights failing every 3-4 weeks" Tags="|electrical|volvo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T18:39:24.570" Score="6" ViewCount="145476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a timing belt/water pump change on my own. When I changed the water pump i drained the coolant, and according to my mechanic, I blew my radiator by not running the engine with the cap off after changing the coolant. According to the mechanic this lets air bubbles form in the radiator, which can cause pressure that damages the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to run the engine with the radiator cap off whenever I add coolant to the radiator or only when I drain/flush the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can I take off the cap to the coolant overflow container and fill that without needing to run the engine with the cap off the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;honda civic 2001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7916" LastEditorUserId="7916" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T21:08:09.613" LastActivityDate="2021-11-24T21:28:11.963" Title="Is it necessary to run the engine after adding radiator coolant or only when draining?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14711" CreationDate="2015-01-01T18:45:18.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never located the thermostat but opening up the inlet house and putting back seemed to clear some air out and now it works fine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7862" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T18:45:18.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:27:09.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only can the radiator get damaged, but the &quot;Head&quot; on the engine can warp and allow antifreeze to get into the oil which will ruin the engine.  Check the radiator reservoir frequently to monitor the coolant level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7937" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:27:09.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:31:35.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest way, or if you have no other options is to simply spit on the visor and smear it with your finger . It gets between the water molecules and prevents them to “hold” each other and spread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it doesn't sounds good , but it works !  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7938" LastEditorUserId="7938" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T21:37:23.897" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:37:23.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14914" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:49:22.993" Score="13" ViewCount="31917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every dirt bike i know has a single cylinder engine.  I myself ride a Yamaha XT660Z which has a huge 660 cc cylinder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the characteristics of those engines? what are the benefits of such design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting topic is that a lot of the engines used in dirt bikes are 2 stroke engines.  What are the pros/cons of such engines compared to 4 stroke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7938" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T22:56:48.293" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T22:56:48.293" Title="Why (almost) all dirt bikes have single cylinder engine?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:32:26.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common reason for this is getting skin oil onto the bulb during changing of the bulb. This will kill most every bulb on the market today. This creates hot spots on the bulb which will cause the filaments to burn out at an accelerated rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't already, use clean, new, nitrile gloves to keep the oil off. If you don't have nitrile gloves, you can utilize a paper towel to hold the bulb while putting it into the socket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of contaminants on the bulb will cause the same problem. If there is any kind of leakage getting into your headlight housing, it too can cause problems with your new bulbs. Mainly, if you see condensation on the inside of the housing, it could be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:32:26.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2411" CreationDate="2015-01-02T05:00:05.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a &lt;em&gt;technical&lt;/em&gt; reason. The pattern can be, and sometimes is, quite different than what you state. It is the combination of history and evolving ergonomic considerations in play here. Really old bikes had an all-up pattern so neutral was at the bottom or top of the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a government rule established in the US 40 years ago standardizing motorcycle controls for regulated motorcycles, so there are political reasons as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it isn't for technical reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between first and second is the most logical place to put neutral given that it can easily placed anywhere. Don't forget, you aren't spending time in the neutral position in ordinary driving, so you certainly don't want to find yourself there inadvertently!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T05:00:05.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T07:39:29.883" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were driving down the road and all the sudden a puff of smoke came from ignition area, and the climate control stopped working. It has no power at all. I have checked relays, checked fuses, even replaced the ignition switch. Even pulled the dash to check for burnt wires and was checking for broke wires with a meter. I am at a loss. I can't find anything wrong. It's just dead with no power at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7944" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T11:47:32.610" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T11:47:32.610" Title="96 Volkswagon climate control wont work" Tags="|vw|heat|climate-control|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:50:41.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T07:49:33.150" Score="3" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Toyota Kluger and have a water leak under the dash. It seems to be worse going around a right hand turn or round about. I can hear it splashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it might be the heater but could be a build up of condensation from the air con I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7946" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T18:29:12.310" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T18:29:12.310" Title="Internal water leak - what could it be?" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14825" CreationDate="2015-01-02T09:32:51.227" Score="7" ViewCount="4340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get a new tire fitted on my 2003 Suzuki DR650 and removed the rear wheel. Following the manual I took the chain guard off, removed the axle, made the wheel free of chain and brake caliper and slid the wheel out. However by doing so the sprocket fell of the wheel. From looking at manuals and youtube I don't see that happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y6ylx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it only held in place by the axle? I would not know which of the black blocks was where and which block filled which gap on the weel, is that a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to look out for for reassembling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7276" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:13:17.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:34:00.447" Title="Motorbike rear wheel hub reassembly" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|wheels|suzuki|chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T11:45:29.050" Score="1" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;Renault Megane 1.6 2008 model. I just changed spark plugs and fuel filter thinking that was the issue, but it carries on. The problem is when the car is stagnant and off and when I try starting the car it does not start straight away. I have to pump the fuel a little or shake the entire car for it to start. What could be the problem? The battery is fine, after changing the engine mountings, this problem started due to the engine being freehold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7949" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T11:56:59.940" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T11:56:59.940" Title="Have to shake the car to get it started" Tags="|engine|renault|megane|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T04:19:15.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14820" CreationDate="2015-01-02T11:45:41.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just water you are getting from under the dash, then it is most likely the drain for the AC/heater box is blocked up. When you run the AC, condensation forms on the evaporator and builds up in the box. Since the drain isn't working, it builds up until it spills over into the passenger compartment. To fix this, get a long, stiff piece of wire. Jack up the front end of the car and place on jack stands. Locate the drain tube which should be on the passenger side of the vehicle near the firewall at the back of the engine compartment. It will be a rubber tube just hanging out in the breeze, but probably not below the level of the bottom of the vehicle. Take your wire and insert it into the tube and run it up the tube  ... this could take anywhere from a foot to two feet of wire (say 2/3 of a meter). You'll know when the blockage is clear, because you'll probably get a face full of water out of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have anti-freeze coming into the compartment, you have a leak in the heater core and it would need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T11:58:11.443" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T11:58:11.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15476" CreationDate="2015-01-02T12:44:26.870" Score="2" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;code&gt;Honda Trigger CB&lt;/code&gt; and it's a good motor vehicle but when I cross speed at 100km/hr. It heats a lot and often get seize in mid way. It then need to cool off to let me ride it again. Also it gives some sort of noises on crossing the speed of 95+ km/hr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7950" LastEditorUserId="7950" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T05:14:27.480" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T23:40:35.497" Title="Honda Engine Seize &amp; overheats" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14821" CreationDate="2015-01-02T13:51:35.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the hard rubber pieces out of the sprocket assembly and put them in the hub. Note that they can only be installed one way. It does not matter if you install them in different locations in the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be something in your manual about greasing the parts that run around the axle, usually with NLGI 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then install the sprocket assembly and other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire assembly is held together with the axle. Take care to get all of the little washers, spacers, and any other bits that were installed back into their proper place, especially the rear brake torque arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the axle nut to the proper spec and install cotter pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T13:51:35.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12566" CreationDate="2015-01-02T15:27:31.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar symptom on my car when the suspension bottom ball joints wear out: at some speeds, when turning just slightly, wheel wobble ensues, and I can feel it through the steering wheel. Sometimes it's quite pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens quite often because my car is 40 years old (Triumph Stag) but has similar front suspension to modern cars. It just wears a bit more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is as the bottom ball joint of the suspension strut wears, it allows play which allows the wheel to 'castor' a little bit, but the nature of the geometry is such that it ends up wobbling from one end of its play to the other. This can only happen when the suspension alignment is fairly relaxed, which for most cars is when slightly turning a corner (owing to various alignments being [deliberately] not quite central).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also happens if the track rod end joint (end of steering rack) wears, but less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to have the bottom ball joint &amp;amp; track rod ends (both sides, to be sure) checked, but especially the one you clonked of course. Shouldn't cost much to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T15:27:31.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2015-01-02T15:32:13.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another surprisingly common problem is water in the headlight lenses (ie uin the unit iteslf), especially after heavy rainfall. It forms a puddle at the bottom of the unit until maybe you hit a bump or brake hard, then splashes up &amp;amp; hits the bulb itself .. zap! temperature difference upsets the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a close look at the light units from the outside and see if you can see any water collected at the bottm. might help to wobble the car about a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T15:32:13.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6765" CreationDate="2015-01-02T15:36:07.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem, or certainly something very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had placed a bag with a couple of books in it on the passenger seat. Going over a bump was enough to make the bag press into the seat triggering the &quot;someone's sitting on me&quot; switch, and the beep was the seatbelt warning for the passenger side...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems silly to make such a detector switch so very sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7951" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T15:36:07.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14836" CreationDate="2015-01-02T19:50:43.223" Score="13" ViewCount="44625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember from my physics class that the ideal-gas Carnot engine is more efficient if the temperature difference between the heat source and the thermostat (&quot;heat recipient&quot;) is larger (&lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/carnot.html&quot;&gt;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/carnot.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I always thought that this MIGHT be applicable to real-life engines, so I have to admit, I did expect lower fuel consumption during winter. Alas, I have not yet experienced the money saving power of a winter's frost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe my measurements were flawed, and combustion engines are indeed more efficient if excess heat is radiated more easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I know that a cold engine also means more viscous/thick oil. So I did notice a significant loss of efficiency (power, really) right after starting my motor. But I'm more interested in a stationary situation, when the engine is warm and ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2022-05-23T19:15:34.177" Title="How does ambient temperature affect engine efficiency and fuel consumption?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|winter|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T19:59:11.470" Score="2" ViewCount="3821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Accord lx 4 cylinder, just like the question says when I turn the steering wheel while it is parked the car almost cuts off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7955" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:01:25.550" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:01:25.550" Title="When I turn my steering wheel when my car is parked and on the car almost cuts off?" Tags="|honda|accord|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14749" CreationDate="2015-01-02T23:35:20.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow could be a mess of things.  It might not even be related to your fuel system either.  But, lets start there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, lets talk about your fuel quality. If degraded over time will cause the engine to run lousy.  Either its running bad all the time, then it is from the gas or if it is not running bad all the time and just has temporary issues, then it is not from the gas itself.  If it's not the gas, it can still be an issue in your fuel system, like clogged injectors or clogged fuel filter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Lee pointed out, start with the fuel system or fuel injector cleaner because it is the cheapest solution to your problem.  However, do not buy the cheapest fuel injector cleaner though because it is ineffective and will not solve your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure the fuel system cleaner you use has (2) things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) An emulsification agent&#xA;2) Is flammable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An emulsification agent bonds with any moisture or water in your entire fuel system.  Chances are, since we are in winter now, your gas ended up getting some moisture in it and this could cause the issues you described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you are already experiencing running issues so why would you dump anything else in your gas tank that isn't flammable?  Be smart here, using the wrong product will not help you.  This is the only fuel system cleaner I recommended to use because it is the only one in the world that has an emulsification agent &amp;amp; is flammable: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/fuel-injector-cleaner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/fuel-injector-cleaner&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you put one can in your tank, try to fire up the vehicle and play with your throttle to keep it idling as you mentioned you had to.  After about 10 minutes, the cleaner will have made its way to your motor from the gas tank and you should start to see some improvement in the idle.  Now, it's time to go for a drive.  You want to &quot;beat on it&quot; or put the pedal to the metal and floor it a few times.  That will put a full load on the motor and help to ensure any carbon buildup that could clog injectors has been burned up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that solves your problem, then great!  If not, as I first mentioned, it might not be coming from your fuel system.  Loss of engine compression can have the same effect.  There is also an easy and inexpensive way to try and fix this yourself by using the best engine flush available: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/engine-flush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.protecautocare.com/motor-vehicle-care/engine-flush&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make sure your engine is free of contamination and fully lubricated with ZDDP.  It also helps to restore engine compression and un-stick piston rings.  It's safe to use regardless of the age of the vehicle or how many miles it has.  You also do not have to worry about contamination breaking free and causing other issues in the motor because this fully dissolves all contamination to smaller than a micron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have done the engine flush, I would then dump a can of oil lubrication booster in the motor to make sure it has some high quality lubrication and protective coating ensuring piston to cylinder gap clearance has been restored, thus increasing your compression and causing the vehicle to run better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that site I linked, they also have a tuneup kit on sale that has all 3 of these products with free shipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck, let us know how it turns out.                &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T23:35:20.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T00:08:08.397" Score="3" ViewCount="37773" Body="&lt;p&gt;A year ago I traded my 2012 Ford Focus for a 2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium (automatic transmission). Dealer told me it could be flat towed, made sense to me, why not so long as it is in neutral? Well, found out that is not the case of course. Very irritating given that my Focus COULD be flat towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, would there be any issue with flat towing my Subaru behind my RV if I had the engine running in the Subaru with the transmission in neutral? Other than wasting gas and racking up miles on the odometer, is there any real problem with this idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also was not certain how this might affect wiring the Subaru's lights with the RV's lights since the power would be on in the Subaru. Would external lights need to be used instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7957" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T02:08:46.097" Title="Flat Tow Subaru Auto Trans with Engine Running?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|towing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T07:23:29.430" Score="3" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 265K miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't driven it in 2 days and came out and found a small pool (about 2 teaspoons at the most) underneath the engine area. It's clear with a tinge of red, no scent, slightly oily in texture. I've checked my fluids, which seem normal. If anything my coolant &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be a little lower than the last time I checked. The tranny fluid seems normal. When I popped my head underneath (see pictures) I identified the leak coming from the transmission area. I'm not that familiar with engine components, sorry. Anyway, you can see the leak I'm talking about in the second picture below (the silver circular piece in the middle of the shot). Is this transmission fluid that I'm seeing? I was going to take it in to be looked at tomorrow, but I'm curious in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: I had a mechanically-inclined friend look over the area and he couldn't find anything significant. In fact, I haven't seen anything dripping from the area in 2 days. He (maybe incorrectly) suggested that perhaps the extreme cold weather (for California...near freezing) which set in very quickly coupled with the fact that I hadn't driven it in a few days (around 4) may be the reason for the dripping. My transmission fluid level was within normal limits and he told me just to keep an eye out for any more dripping and potentially take it in if it occurs. Is there any other contradictory advice or support from the community?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8YZn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skid plate (I&amp;#39;m directly under the driver side looking forward)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xozrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission(?) directly above front axle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7958" LastEditorUserId="7958" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T16:41:08.953" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T16:41:08.953" Title="Possible transmission fluid leak" Tags="|toyota|transmission|automatic-transmission|leak|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14833" CreationDate="2015-01-03T13:15:37.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is, the Automatic Subaru Outback should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; be flat towed. If it is determined you have done so, would void your warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fmca.com/topic/5504-subaru-outback-subaru-doesnt-recommend-flat-tow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Family Motor Coach Association&lt;/a&gt; forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... the information in the Outback owners manual being vague when it comes to recreational towing. It specifically says not to tow automatic and CVT vehicles faster than 20 mph and for no more than 31 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a subsequent post in the same thread, it was further answered about manual transmission Outbacks having the ability to flat tow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;AWD Subaru vehicles with manual transmission can be towed with all four wheels on the ground and the transmission in neutral.  When towing a manual transmission Subaru behind your motor home, you would want the transmission in neutral and the key in the 'ACC' position. As all new models are equipped with digital odometers, mileage will not accumulate when being towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to tow an AWD Outback (which I assume most of them are AWD) for any extended period of time, you need to have them on a trailer. This would seriously be your best option if you are going to be towing it a lot. Consider the trade off in the mileage, fuel, piece-of-mind against the purchase price of the trailer. I've looked into towed vehicle trailers and have found them quite reasonable. You'd recoup the cost in no time, especially if your found a decent used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be any issue with flat towing my Subaru behind my RV if I had the engine running in the Subaru with the transmission in neutral? Other than wasting gas and racking up miles on the odometer, is there any real problem with this idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are on the right track here. It would provide lubricant to vital transmission parts to do this while pulling it ... &lt;strong&gt;but why would you&lt;/strong&gt;? It sounds like a recipe for disaster if you ask me. If the Outback were to run out of fuel for some stupid reason, you'd destroy the transmission/transfer in it. If you left it running/attached and went in to go to the bathroom somewhere, you'd come out and find the car gone because someone took it (I guess if you have a key fob, you could lock/unlock the vehicle). I don't know, there is just something inherently wrong with doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would external lights need to be used instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be your best bet. You can get light bars like tow trucks use. They come with LEDs which are much better than incandescent, with magnets which hold them to the roof of the towed vehicle. This would avoid you having to hack the wiring harness. I'm sure you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; wire the turn indicators like you would do regularly with a flat towed vehicle without issue, even if it were running. I take it you have experience in this arena, so would leave the particulars up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T13:15:37.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14830" CreationDate="2015-01-03T15:23:49.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;Ambient air temperature should generally not interfere with engine efficiency or fuel consumption, but will affect overall power output.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not confuse &lt;strong&gt;efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;power output&lt;/strong&gt;. These are two separate things. When your intake charge is more dense, you can throw more fuel at it and creates &lt;strong&gt;more power&lt;/strong&gt;. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The idea for the engine management system is to maintain a general 14.6:1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio&quot;&gt;air to fuel ratio&lt;/a&gt; (also called stoichiometric or &quot;stoic&quot; for short). This is the so-called &quot;perfect&quot; mixture of air and fuel where all of the fuel is burned with no extra oxygen being left afterwards. Unfortunately, the stoic mixture is not usually obtained. This happens because of two problems which arise, both having to do with the amount of heat which is created during the combustion process. First, the hotter combustion can cause detonation. Second, above a combustion temperature of around 1700degF, nitrogen in the air which is brought into the engine (along with the oxygen -- air contains ~78% nitrogen and ~20% oxygen) and burns. This creates NO2 or Nitrogen Dioxide. This is a major air pollutant and was the primary cause of acid rain talked about in the 70's in California. It is also very bad for us to breath -- toxic in fact.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side of this is &lt;strong&gt;efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;, which in the context of engines means getting more usable power from the same amount of fuel. Great strides have been made in the past couple of decades towards engine efficiency. One of the ways they have accomplished this is through turbo-charging. In simple terms, turbo-charging is a way of utilizing the heat energy otherwise discarded in exhaust process. The turbo is able to increase the air charge by using the pressure created from the exhaust gases, which allows the computer to throw more fuel at the intake charge, thus making more power. This could lead to a very large &quot;other&quot; discussion, so I'll leave it here. Needless to say, power is made more efficiently through this method than through normal aspiration and thus the engine can make more power with less fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to improve engine efficiency is to increase the compression ratio (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio&quot;&gt;CR&lt;/a&gt;) of the engine. A general rule of thumb for CR is, for every point of added CR your power output will raise by about 3%. If you are increasing power output without adding more fuel, this is increased efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A colder air charge going into the engine will be &lt;em&gt;denser&lt;/em&gt; and contain more oxygen than it's warmer counterpart. You are still using more fuel to create more power, thus there is no added efficiency benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you suggested to not include a cold start-up, there is a reason you will not see better fuel consumption during this period. The reason is because the computer actually throws more fuel into the mix to provide for increased engine stability (help keep it running smoothly -- like a choke would on a carbureted engine) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; to help the catalytic converter warm up quicker helping it reach peak efficiency faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, combustion engines can be quite a bit &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; efficient if they can &lt;em&gt;utilize&lt;/em&gt; the heat instead of radiating it. Remember that radiated heat is &lt;em&gt;lost energy&lt;/em&gt;. If you can utilize the heat to produce more power or create the same power more efficiently, you're just better off all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm talking about is a concept a guy by the name of Henry &quot;Smokey&quot; Yunick had mastered in the early 80's. He worked off of an idea which Ralph Johnson came up with in the early '50's while Ralph worked at GM. The idea of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1009-what-ever-happened-to-smokeys-hot-vapor-engine/&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;hot air engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; in which the air is heated to around 400degF and &lt;em&gt;homogenized&lt;/em&gt; (blended very well) to a point where it would not have detonation. You can read the article, but the reason it is not around in vehicles today is two fold. First, they tried to make it into a bolt-on kit, but couldn't do so because it required upgraded parts for the pistons and rings, which is in effect not so much of a &quot;bolt-on&quot; kit and makes it a lot more expensive than the target prices they were shooting for. Secondly, Smokey unfortunately died some time back. Way too many of his secrets died with him as he kept the particulars in his head. This is &lt;em&gt;truly&lt;/em&gt; sad, because he did some truly AWESOME work and had  revolutionary inventions and ideas which died with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot air engine flies in the face of common thinking about cold air induction and your question. Common wisdom states that the colder the air going into the engine, the better the output. And this is basically true with (what we consider today) normal engines (Smokey's hot air engine being an outlier). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T15:23:49.250" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14849" CreationDate="2015-01-03T17:51:06.940" Score="4" ViewCount="12452" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Chevy HHR 2006 and I don't know what to do. First one low beam went out now both are not working but both high beams are working. What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7961" LastEditorUserId="7961" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T01:13:29.473" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T23:19:13.037" Title="Low beams don't work but high beams do. What do I do?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14839" CreationDate="2015-01-03T19:06:38.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is most likely blown bulbs. Each bulb has 2 filaments in it, one for low beams and one for high beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the low beams failed at separate times and the high beams are still working, it is less likely you have an electrical fault, and more likely the bulbs failed because they were from the same production line, same usage stats, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You local auto parts store should have an applications guide to tell you which bulbs are the correct type for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T19:06:38.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T19:14:43.493" Score="1" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 Mazda 323 and the horn has stopped working.  When I press the horn button on the steering wheel I hear a clicking noise but no horn.  What should I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T19:28:41.640" Title="My horn has stopped working" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14841" CreationDate="2015-01-03T19:28:41.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Locate your horn (commonly in front of the radiator) and verify the electrical leads are connected and in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pressing the horn button, check the voltage between the positive lead connected to the horn and ground. It should be around 12v. Note that it is not necessary to have the vehicle running to do this. Also verify that the resistance between the ground lead and ground is low (less than 5 ohms, typically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you will find the voltage fine, indicating you need a new horn. If the voltage is not present, or is low, or if the resistance on the ground lead is high, check the wiring to the horn, since the click sound seems to suggest that the button is properly closing the horn relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I have resolved this issue on motorcycles, where the horn is generally much more exposed to the elements and prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T19:28:41.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T21:08:42.720" Score="2" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had my oil changed and had coolant put into my car a few days before Christmas. Also, bought a new fuel cap the same day. All of these lights are still on and I have no idea how to make them go off. I read the manual and couldn't find it. I could be missing it but it has me worried :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7965" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T00:41:16.357" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T01:04:29.967" Title="03 Ford Escape V6 Oil/Coolant/check fuel cap lights" Tags="|ford|oil|coolant|cel|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T00:27:17.583" Score="3" ViewCount="21225" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past few days my check engine light has been on. Whenever I try to accelerate, the car will not go very fast at all, no matter how hard I press it, all the way down, halfway, doesn't matter. It takes awhile for it to get up to speed. But it works fine when I put it into second gear from my stop and then start going. I put it back in drive after it gets up to speed. (Car is automatic but has second gear option) so I'm not sure what it could be. I don't know much about cars and I JUST got this car for starting college. Took it to auto parts and they scanned it, came up with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission control system shift solenoid B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue what it could be. Any help would be a life saver! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T16:55:54.630" Title="2001 civic won't accelerate when pressing gas petal..?" Tags="|honda|transmission|automatic-transmission|cel|acceleration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14844" CreationDate="2015-01-04T00:41:01.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine lights need to be read and cleared if you haven't done it already. This can only be done with an OBD-II scanner. If you don't have one, take it to an Autozone or the like. They can do it for you and will usually do so for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T00:41:01.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9056" CreationDate="2015-01-04T05:02:12.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been a mechanic for 15 years and will tell you that you can go by the oil life indicator, but Ive always recomended changing oil every 3k miles. It never hurts to change the oil and in some cases if your engine does use a little oil then your more likely to not run it low. Of course always check the oil frequently. Also a good rule is always give your engine a little time to get the oil flowing and warm up especially in the winter months!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7969" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T05:02:12.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14839" CreationDate="2015-01-04T05:06:49.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have an auto lamp switch? If so you could have a faulty light sensor or switch try manually turning them on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7969" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T05:06:49.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14856" CreationDate="2015-01-04T15:28:48.763" Score="4" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I had my rotors turned my front end now pulls to the right where it didn't before. Are the two related?should they gave realigned my front end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7974" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T16:38:43.307" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T16:38:43.307" Title="would turning the rotors make my front end go out of alignment?" Tags="|brake-rotor|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-01-04T16:17:17.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had same problem on 2008 impala. No MIL lights, transmission fluid clean with new filter. After coming to a stop transmission hesitated then jumped into gear. Problem ended up being Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle body  (not pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7975" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T16:17:17.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14854" CreationDate="2015-01-04T16:20:36.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; for the front end to go out of alignment when getting the front rotors turned, but it would not be unheard of. Any time you mess with the front end of the vehicle you run the risk of needing an alignment. This is not something you should expect to be done, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something which may be happening is you may have a caliper which is dragging, causing the vehicle to pull to the one side. &lt;em&gt;This&lt;/em&gt; would have something to with the work which was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T16:20:36.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14858" CreationDate="2015-01-04T17:25:07.487" Score="4" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (a Toyota Avensis 2001 Diesel 2.0L) often lays idle for long periods. During these periods the battery runs down and it is unable to start. I recognise that the car should be driven more often but unfortunately it is not possible sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a portable jump starter device (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walter-service.at/index.php?page=product&amp;amp;info=1604&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.walter-service.at/index.php?page=product&amp;amp;info=1604&lt;/a&gt;) that I have used for previous car, however it does not work with this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested to me that a device with a higher current might be more capable of starting the car. Is this true? If so, how can I determine if the current is large enough for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, how can I best choose a jump starter which is suitable for a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7976" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T02:55:34.777" Title="How do I know if a jump starter is suitable for my car?" Tags="|car|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2015-01-04T18:56:01.073" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need a trickle charger or battery maintainer - this is a small charger than monitors the charge on the battery, and keeps it charged.  Most modern cars have electronics that have a continuous drain on the battery - a trickle charger produces enough power to compensate for this drain, so that even if the car isn't driven for a few weeks the battery doesn't drain completely.  This will also help ensure a longer life for the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the plug-in models, there are also solar-powered versions, so even if you don't have a power source available you can still keep the battery charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you get one that has &quot;intelligence&quot;, so that the battery does not get over-charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T02:55:34.777" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T02:55:34.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:40:42.460" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 6am this morning the car battery was dead. (It snowed all night and temperature was 3 degrees this morning.) 3 hours later I went to check it out and it started right up so I let it run for 20 minutes.  Now 3 hours later the battery is dead again. Everything is shut off!  So is my battery bad or is it something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7977" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T22:19:42.493" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T22:19:42.493" Title="is my car battery bad?" Tags="|battery|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T23:43:25.937" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at a number of 2012 Honda Civics for consideration and each one I test drive has a slight vibration in the steering wheel when idle. Normally I know that vibrations in wheels are bad, but it is very cold around here (-10c on average). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this vibration normal at these temperatures on Civics? Or should I avoid any car which has this vibration as it may indicate a future repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T23:43:25.937" Title="Is a slight steering wheel vibration normal in a 2012 Civic when cold?" Tags="|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T05:48:34.560" Score="2" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Kia Spectra. Just replaced the radiator. The car does not overheat when running, no fluid leaking.  However, car is very sluggish when accelerating. Rpm goes up but car jerks into movement. There is light white smoke once car is fully warmed up.  I did not have this problem at all prior to replacing the radiator. I've read in a few places it could be an airlock so I tried running the car with heat on high and cap off radiator. The heater blew hot air as it should but once I replaced the radiator cap and tried driving it's still sluggish. I should mention I have only driven it at lower speeds through the parking lot and not on the highway. Should I drive it at higher speeds for longer distance to remove airlock? I don't want to blow up my engine. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7982" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T19:10:50.920" Title="Sluggish Acceleration" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2015-01-05T07:07:34.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water is corrosive. You will shorten your engine's life if you don't add antifreeze. Antifreeze, on top of everything else it does, also acts as a rust inhibitor. Yes, you can run straight water, but your coolant boiling point will be lower AND you'll corrode the inside of your engine and destroy your water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T07:07:34.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T12:56:12.763" Score="1" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cas is a BMW e36 320i, with an automatic gear box. The gearbox has three modes, Economic, Sports and ICE. When in Economic mode, The gearbox switches smoothly between the 5 speeds, however, the switching occurs early which makes my car a little bit sluggish. When I put it in sports mode, the gear will switch at a higher RPM, which makes the car more powerfull. However my problem is that when in sports mode, the gear doesn't switch to the 5th speed. I am not sure if it is built in like this or this a problem in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it possible to tune the level at which the gearbox switches when in economy mode. Also to make the gear switch down when going up hill or taking out cars, I need to press the pedal almost 90% to force the gear to switch, is it possible to tune this also to make the gear switch when I press the pedal on 30-40 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6520" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T12:56:12.763" Title="BMW 320i 1992 Gearbox in Sports Mode" Tags="|bmw|gears|tuning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:52:55.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19393" CreationDate="2015-01-05T13:35:07.583" Score="5" ViewCount="23053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Renault Clio Mk2 with a 1.4L 16v engine, which I have owned for 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a readout on the dash which indicates the oil level when you first turn on the ignition. My sensor is going faulty though - and I like to check my oil level manually anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot, for the life of me, find the dipstick on this car. I can see the filler cap, which does not have an integrated dipstick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7368" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T01:00:47.273" Title="Renault 1.4L 16v Oil Dipstick Location" Tags="|oil|renault|clio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14863" CreationDate="2015-01-05T18:14:19.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air in the coolant usually comes with a fluctuating idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White smoke usually means headgaket has popped as coolant is being burned in the combustion process.  It doesn't always mean it will overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T18:14:19.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T18:17:00.060" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so my kid decided to borrow my truck. It's older and has a few problems one of which is the shifter does not change on the dash it always looks as if it's in park. You have to feel it out to put in drive. Well Its spilled oil all over now bc he drove in I believe second gear for about 10 miles. What kind of damage am I looking at? I'm thinking it's probably a gasket. And how much will it cost to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7987" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T22:38:17.417" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T23:10:50.293" Title="94 f150 at highway speeds in second gear" Tags="|ford|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14859" CreationDate="2015-01-05T22:14:17.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I'd clean your battery terminals, since even a cold battery at fullish charge will try to start. After cleaning, make sure they're clamped tight and there's no corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, describe &quot;won't start&quot; - clicks, nothing, slow turnover, turns and stops, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T22:14:17.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14868" CreationDate="2015-01-05T22:43:16.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the trans fluid level and engine oil level. It is possible that the tranny fluid got hot and bubbled out the vent.  If the fluid level is low I would just add some to get it to the correct level. At this point any damage is already done. If the tranny is shifting ok, but fluid has a strong burnt smell it may be worth flushing  and replacing it.    The engine may have used some oil just from the high revs from being in second gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T22:43:16.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14866" CreationDate="2015-01-05T23:12:27.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking several sights it should be on the front side of the engine. Near the middle of the block and under the fuel rail cover. Even in day light you may need a flashlight to locate it. It is by all accounts a royal pain to get at. Several queries were in regard to broken dip sticks. What this may mean is you can't find it because it has been broken off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T23:12:27.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T00:53:19.450" Score="8" ViewCount="3200" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's service manual shows this for the ignition coils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCAQx.png&quot; alt=&quot;ignition coil&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the ICM?  Related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2850/31&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2850/31&lt;/a&gt;, is there a way to check the coils to see if they are working correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda Civic EX D17A2 1.7L SOHC engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:23:49.340" Title="Is there a way to test ignition coils with built-in ICM?" Tags="|ignition|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T02:09:44.470" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle used to beep in reverse and as I would approach an object the beeping would become faster. Now it doesn't beep at all and I don't recall turning it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7989" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:47:49.240" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:47:49.240" Title="2006 impala reverse beeping noise" Tags="|chevrolet|impala|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-06T11:48:52.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15335" CreationDate="2015-01-06T03:42:56.133" Score="3" ViewCount="5134" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has an e36 that wont maintain idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is driveable but coughs and stops when idling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the air box and boot and they are in good condition - no leaks. I think spark and fuel distribution is fine too as there is no missing when the car revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing the issue? IAC valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T16:16:58.350" Title="BMW e36 wont maintain idle" Tags="|bmw|rough-idle|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T06:30:23.677" Score="6" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Civic died after the temperature dropped lower than -30°C, and will only start now when I boost it. The previous owner told me about this, and he said he replaced the battery. But now, it's doing the same thing again only a year later. I'm wondering if it's something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7991" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:00:57.913" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T06:12:55.547" Title="Honda civic 2003 dead battery from cold" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T13:05:49.490" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to convert a Mercedes 614d  minibus into a catering truck. Can the floor system,rails which keep the seats in place, be removed as would like to make the floor lower. Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7994" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T16:52:48.370" Title="How to remove the flooring system from Mercedes 614d minibus" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T17:45:20.563" Score="3" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Expedition, which badly needed a tune up: the motor was shaking. I changed the  plugs, which stopped the shaking; two days later the truck won't start. The battery is hot and the lights work, but it won't even make the clicking sounds. Where do I go from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8000" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T12:53:11.160" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:53:11.160" Title="Truck won't crank; no sound from starter relays" Tags="|engine|ford|ignition|cel|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24271" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:01:17.567" Score="3" ViewCount="2730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, I've had it for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it in to get the windshield washer nozzles replaced (they were spraying weird).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got the car back I drove away and put the heat on &quot;hi&quot; and climate on &quot;auto&quot; (it's &lt;em&gt;crazy&lt;/em&gt; cold here: -12C/11F).  After a few minutes, I noticed the heater fan wasn't blowing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a UConnect 5 integrated climate control system, the fan speed was turned to max and the heat was set max, but there was no fan noise and no air blowing at all.  And no heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a variety of settings -- also shut the car off, opened/closed doors, and restarted it -- but could not get it working.  No blower, no heat, no front defrost, nothing.  I drove it for almost an hour like this before I could bring it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater/fan had been working every day since I bought the car last week, it seemed too coincidental that the heater would just stop working like that after getting the washer nozzles replaced -- I just assumed they accidentally disconnected something during the nozzle repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it back to the service place and showed them the problem and left the car with them.  A couple hours later, when the mechanic took it in to look at the problem, and the fan was now just working fine.  He says there's no problem.  It appears to have fixed itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause the fan to just stop working, and then start working again?  I would think if there was a fuse blown, or something got accidentally unplugged, they would just tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One detail that may or may not be important -- They were nice enough to wash the car after replacing the nozzles, and because of the wicked cold, some stuff was noticeably frozen, like the power windows wouldn't go up and down because they were frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the cold and the car wash froze something related to the heater/fan and it later just warmed up / thawed out when the mechanic brought it into the garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what happened to my heater-blower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastEditorUserId="8003" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T19:06:37.720" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T04:40:05.810" Title="Did cold weather cause my Jeep's heater fan to stop blowing and then start again later?" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14905" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:55:55.980" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently modifying my '08 Subaru WRX with everything from suspension(Sways/Strut/Springs...) to Engine(Turbo/TMIC/Injectors...) and much much more...However I would like to get ahead of the game when it comes to major setbacks that could happen as the car ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts of the vehicle are generally first to go due to old age, that do not have a direct replacement part?  For example a busted Radiator is as easy as sliding a new aftermarket one in, but a hole in the floor due to rust will require custom welding and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to identify the areas of the vehicle that will require this type of custom work down the road and if anyone can enlighten me on an issue that has absolutely no fix it would be greatly appreciated, thanks :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T11:19:44.713" Title="first &quot;non-replaceable&quot; parts to break" Tags="|engine|maintenance|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T20:40:33.637" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Escape 2003 I'm trying to repair, and I'm looking for a specific part, but I don't know how it's named, therefore I can't buy it online. The part is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6h71S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of between the front left wheel and the door...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8004" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:59:57.490" Title="What's the name of this part?" Tags="|ford|parts|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14886" CreationDate="2015-01-06T20:59:57.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that it has a standard name.  I would call it a fender molding.  Per the parts diagram and description here (&lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/1wl5xii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/1wl5xii&lt;/a&gt;), it may be called a &quot;lower molding without wheel opening molding&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7452" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:59:57.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14909" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:03:00.533" Score="4" ViewCount="4613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the owner of a 2003 MG TF[see photo], I love the car although being 6'4&amp;quot; it borders on uncomfortable when driving longer distances and is not very dignified getting in or out, and my knees brush the steering wheel quite often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjO1B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply getting a larger car is not an option because I bought the TF because I love the car and knew beforehand it would have its drawbacks with driver comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few hypothetical suggestions on how to improve my leg/knee/body room such as low-slung bucket seats and an aftermarket steering wheel with lower diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, would these modifications improve my comfort whilst driving? If not are there any other solutions I can look into?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T14:40:06.220" Title="Ways to increase driver space and comfort in a small car?" Tags="|interior|steering-wheel|diy|driving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T01:14:10.963" Score="3" ViewCount="3600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the wiper motor be damaged when windshield fluid got frozen? Van is 2013, &#xA;windshield fluid was frozen in car for only 2 days. I don't think this can damage wiper motor at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8010" LastEditorUserId="9469" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T10:05:12.913" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T10:05:12.913" Title="Will wiper motor get damaged if windshield wiper fluid got frozen?" Tags="|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14888" CreationDate="2015-01-07T07:43:03.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would certainly help. Just be careful of bucket seats. If you have a bigger than average backside, the bucket seat's lateral supports tend to dig into your thighs and will make for an infuriating long distance trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, spend a bit more money and get good quality items. I had a set of NRX (made in China or something) seats which broke after two years. I then fitted a set of Sparco seats and they've been fine for ages. They weren't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; much more either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally: keep it classy. Aftermarket equipment that &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like aftermarket equipment makes your car look bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T07:43:03.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12211" CreationDate="2015-01-07T08:11:39.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered a scientific breakthrough regarding this topic. I live in Tennessee, and it's about to get miserably cold, already hitting 28. In February sometimes it gets below zero, when we get most of our snow. I found a good way to save gas when it gets time to warm your car up for defrosting etc. every morning. Start your car, let it run for about 5 minutes with the heat on defrost and feet. Turn it off and wait 5-10 minutes. I did this the other day and my windows were completely clear, as if the heat transferred that quickly. As for your question I've always just thought that since heat rises, you'd get less heat dissipation if the heat starts at your feet. It may help to warm up the entire interior faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T08:11:39.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14813" CreationDate="2015-01-07T08:20:46.333" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's similar to the firing order of a Subaru, which instead of an inline 4 firing, 3, 2, 4, 1, a Subaru fires two cylinders at a time, and it's because when you're riding on dirt you want a delay between firing. It gives you a pause, and more traction. When you're riding on pavement you want 12 cylinders, but even from the start line, you don't want to burn out, you want as much acceleration as possible without losing traction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T08:20:46.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2015-01-07T08:45:21.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take two butter knives and shove them in gap at the top of your radio about an inch or two from the sides. It should push the clips in and it will slide right out. Sometimes the cables come out in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T08:45:21.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14530" CreationDate="2015-01-07T08:52:05.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah you can add a flex agent if you think that's the case or you can make sure it's sanded rough and then do like 3 or 4 layers of paint. You could also sand it down further, and cover it with fiberglass or epoxy resin, then sand that and paint it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T08:52:05.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2015-01-07T09:21:20.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can actually insert programming scripts into your ECU. Palmer Performance has a variety of adapters and computer software. I know they have some kind of script library, or you could try replacing the computer. Have someone check your distributor. If it's throwing check engine codes, take off your valve cover and tighten the studs with a breaker bar but be easy. It only take about 60 lbs. on each stud but if they're rusted ur gonna have to break it loose first. Then I would look at smaller things, learn how to check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge, you'll need your engine specs to, and some knowledge on the firing order. If you want to do a head gasket you better have lots of tools and possibly a week to work on it, and about 500 bucks in case you break your knock sensor and have to pay a mechanic to finish the job for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T09:21:20.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14889" CreationDate="2015-01-07T10:37:55.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wiper motor itself shouldn't be damaged by frozen washer fluid, what may be damaged is the washer pump motor however mine has frozen several times and as long as you don't keep trying to use it, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T10:37:55.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T11:05:38.440" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into a really bad wreck last winter. My power steering was leaking and had locked up in the middle of an icy road, while I was trying to find a median at night. The guy hit me going around 70 miles an hour but I was able to redirect the momentum and ended up repairing it and redoing my front end as well. I had to replace the trailing arm, upper control arm and beat the dent out with a 2x4, car jack, and a big hammer, with some coolant hoses to spread the force evenly when using the car jack.  I smoothed it out most of the way by heating it with a propane torch and having someone hold a plate on the other side while i flattened it with the hammer. There's a lot to learn when it comes to undoing a collision but I've never really understood what a body puller does and I was wondering if anybody knows what kind of tools I might be able to get access to finish the job on my own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQeDd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbz9h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCqPD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:55:17.110" Title="What kind of tools could I use for some aluminum body finishing work without doing any cutting?" Tags="|car|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14885" CreationDate="2015-01-07T11:19:44.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know from experience that the doors like to rust after about 7 years if you're not careful. I don't know of anything else except the usual problems like cracking radiators, blown headgaskets and broken main bearings (usually under #3 piston). Other things that go wrong include the main oil seal and the clutch. If you have a VF39 STI turbo, it might crack on the turbine side at some point. But these things aren't really what you were asking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I have a 2007 Forester XT, which is basically a WRX on stilts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T11:19:44.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14907" CreationDate="2015-01-07T11:30:48.823" Score="4" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jaguar XJ 2010 model, the service warning light comes on around October every year for the annual service. If however I was to get it serviced in June this year (i.e earlier than the service is due and before the light comes on) will it ignore and skip this year? Or will it still come on in October? i.e Do car systems just turn the light on after a certain year regardless if it has been serviced previously or even if there has not been much mileage done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T11:40:57.247" Title="Will cars annual service light still come on if I do an early service?" Tags="|service|warning-light|jaguar|servicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2015-01-07T11:40:57.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not positive how the Jaguar system runs, but would assume the service light comes on when the time period has elapsed, and is then &lt;em&gt;reset&lt;/em&gt; by the technician. If you take it in for service and have the maintenance done on it, the technician should reset it and the light should not come on for another year from that point. Ask your tech to reset the computer when you get the maintenance done and the &lt;em&gt;dreaded&lt;/em&gt; service light should be avoided :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T11:40:57.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T13:56:51.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2015 Hyundai Sonata its only 2 months old and while driving on a freeway I was unable to accelerate. I was cruising at 65 mph and while trying to pass someone it just limped along very slowly going faster even though I had the pedal down to the floor and the RPMs were 4k to 6k. After getting to my destination I told the car off and tried restarting but it wouldn't start twice, after some time like 20 mins it started. Any thoughts on this issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9013" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T22:37:07.513" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T15:10:23.147" Title="2015 Hyundai Sonata not accelerating" Tags="|hyundai|sonata|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14888" CreationDate="2015-01-07T14:40:06.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is room behind the seat now&lt;/strong&gt; (ie: you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; slide the seat back further &lt;em&gt;if it would let you&lt;/em&gt;), I'd pull the current seat out and remount it further to the rear. It sounds as though you'd only need about 2-3&quot; more space to make it worth it. Most seats are bolted down using four mounting points, two on each seat rail. If these are bolts (or studs) which are run up through the floor, do something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure back the desired distance from the old studs/holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark for new mounting holes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before you drill, ensure you aren't going to be drilling into any fuel lines or such which may cause unwanted damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill holes for new mounting points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your new holes will mount the seat as you want&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the old studs off at the floor (skip this step if there are bolts holding the rails in place)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have two means to ensure a safe mounting point where you drilled the holes. 1st - if you have access to a welder, use it to weld new nuts to the body from underneath, then use some spray paint to seal the area to keep rust at bay. 2nd - if you don't have a welder, use wide flat washers to either side body metal to provide extra support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall your seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions are not all inclusive, but should give you an idea on how you can remedy your situation without too much hassle. This type of method would keep everything stock looking, but give you the added leg room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T14:40:06.220" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T16:57:13.770" Score="6" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a new VW and from past experience I want to have a camera system built in the car for few reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, to record any possible accidents while driving and while I am not there. Second reason is to record the speed limit - and were thinking about a camera inside the cabine that record the driver and front dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have few things that I wish to consider when getting this kit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am aware of the hundereds of options of the all differnet car DVRs and cameras. But most of them are powered from the 12V outlet. Are there kits out there that can be wired up to the main car's system, or have a backup battery that charges when the car is driving and can last for at least 12 hours?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have 360 degree camera coverage around the car, and one inside the cabine to record the drive, windows, and dash (speed, when police polls you over, etc...) with sound. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, something that can be small enough so it will not attract attention of burglers and other curious type parties...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas, recommendations, and experiences (good and bad) are welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T15:40:06.413" Title="Permanent car camera secuity system?" Tags="|car|security|camera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-06-08T08:15:16.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14925" CreationDate="2015-01-07T18:06:02.727" Score="5" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2014 Ford Mustang with Sync.  Sync is pretty mediocre and can sometimes be frustrating.  I'm interested in switching to an aftermarket head unit, not unlike this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.parrot.com/2015/01/05/ces-2015-parrot-rnb6-the-most-advanced-in-vehicle-infotainment-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parrot RNB6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if switching to this will render my steering wheel controls inoperable.  Particularly the Voice Command button, volume, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4200" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T22:35:36.003" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T12:47:21.603" Title="Can I still use OEM steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit?" Tags="|ford|audio|steering-wheel|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T18:50:31.547" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;When turning your fan by hand, are your belts supposed to turn too, or slide across the pulley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9015" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T05:45:02.967" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T01:07:16.460" Title="Should fan belts slide when the fan is turned by hand?" Tags="|ford|belt|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14813" CreationDate="2015-01-07T19:24:22.610" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the use of a 2-stroke engine is it accelerates much faster than a similarly sized 4-stroke engine. The obvious reason for this is a 2-stroke cylinder fires on every revolution of the crank shaft, while a 4-stroke does it every &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; revolution. Also because the 2-stroke fires on every revolution, they only need enough weight to balance the engine. A 4-stroke engine needs added weight in the crank shaft to allow it to keep running during the non-firing stroke. This applies mainly when the engine is running in the lower RPM ranges. Due to the added weight, it takes the engine longer to increase speed from the lower to higher RPM ranges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These engines are also primarily air cooled. Having a single cylinder engine air cooled is a lot more efficient than trying to cool a two (or more) cylinder air-cooled engine. Air cooled is a simpler solution than is water cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single cylinder engine is a lot simpler than a two cylinder engine, whether 2- or 4-stroke. There are just a lot less moving parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no issue with why larger is better ... it goes back to the old saying of &lt;em&gt;There is no replacement for displacement.&lt;/em&gt; Having more displacement, whether 2- or 4-stroke is going to provide more low end torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the way most 2-strokes fill the cylinder with air/fuel mixture, they are inherently less efficient than a 4-stroke engine is. The volumetric efficiency of a naturally aspirated 2-stroke limits its ability to make power. A similarly sized 4-stroke can fill the cylinder a lot more completely, allowing it to make a lot more power. For the edification of those who may not know, a 2-stroke engine only has a reed valve which functions as a check valve to allow for the correct air/exhaust flow. The inlet for the air/fuel is through low in the cylinder port(s) on one side of the cylinder. These inlets are at the position where, as the piston travels down in the cylinder, these ports are uncovered to allow the air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. As the piston travels back up the cylinder, the port(s) are closed off, which allows for the compression of the air/fuel mixture just prior to ignition. As the piston travels down the cylinder, it gets to the exhaust port(s) first, which are also in the side of the cylinder, only opposite the intake ports. The pistons are usually specifically shaped to direct the outgoing exhaust and incoming air/fuel mixture in the correct direction so the engine will actually function (instead of say the exhaust going out the intake port). In comparison, a 4-stroke piston is relatively flat (there are exceptions). Here's a pretty good representation of the two strokes and piston shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbkTV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a dirt bike, having the low end torque you need to dig your way out of a tight turn, then having the ability to get up to speed quickly ... that's where it's at. A 2-stroke engine can do both of these for a bike, at the cost of efficiency in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T19:24:22.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14919" CreationDate="2015-01-07T19:35:14.713" Score="3" ViewCount="2864" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mechanic has found that I have two split CV joint boots on my 2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, and I want to try and replace the axles myself. However, the shop manual for the drivetrain is very confusing to me, so I want to check whether the information I have found online is correct for my car in particular. My favorite YouTube video is here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK8QaqltAUc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK8QaqltAUc&lt;/a&gt; and it looks like a late 90s Legacy. A couple pointed questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the procedure for this car be same as a 2004 Impreza? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the axle nut be loosened before or after lifting the car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the only bolts that need to be removed the ones holing the knuckle to the strut?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do both strut bolts need to be marked and replaced to ensure proper alignment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I mark the bolts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can be used instead of a proper punch to remove the roll pins? How thin must it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other advice worth noting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Tim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T23:54:32.943" Title="How do I replace front CV axles for a 2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport?" Tags="|subaru|axle|impreza|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T19:53:50.310" Score="0" ViewCount="5053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to Autozone and the codes are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0340 - Cam Shaft Position Sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0455 - Evaporative Emissions Problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know a lot about cars. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9019" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2022-09-30T21:59:05.437" LastActivityDate="2022-09-30T21:59:05.437" Title="2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Check Engine Light is on and has started regularly sputtering" Tags="|chrysler|pt-cruiser|p0340|p0455|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14917" CreationDate="2015-01-07T21:40:13.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are two very separate problems, though you could try just having the codes cleared first (since they have been read, hopefully they have already been cleared). With the brevity of the question, I'll assume you did this and these are the two codes which have remained. Soooo ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0340 has to do with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cam position sensor&lt;/a&gt;. This seems like a fairly common problem on PT Cruisers. With this problem the car would go into what is called &quot;limp home mode&quot;, where the engine will max out at about 2,500rpm. Sputtering and such seems fairly common here, also. Replacement of the sensor is relatively easy and could be accomplished by anybody with a good mechanical sense about them in about 10-20 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0455 code has to do with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/p0455.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;evaporative emission control system leak&lt;/a&gt;. This problem is a little harder to diagnose exactly what is going on. The possible causes here are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gas cap left open or not closed properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty gas cap or damaged gas cap seal &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty or stuck-open vent control valve (could also be called vent control solenoid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged or cracked charcoal canister&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked or disconnected EVAP hose &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuck open purge valve (solenoid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T21:40:13.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14915" CreationDate="2015-01-07T22:33:35.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should the procedure for this car be same as a 2004 Impreza?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuNVrkUTtSY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I think I would use this video for direction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should the axle nut be loosened before or after lifting the car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not replacing the wheel bearing, then no. I saw on your video where it says that you can cause damage to the wheel bearing by doing it with the car on the ground. If you don't have the availability of a lift, then put the front end up on jack stands and ensure it is solid on them. Take the tires off (you should have loosened the lug nuts while the car was sitting on the ground). Then have someone get into the driver's seat of the car &lt;strong&gt;CAREFULLY&lt;/strong&gt; and apply the brakes. Then remove the large nut which holds the axle in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Are the only bolts that need to be removed the ones holing the knuckle to the strut?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the directions on the video I provided. You'll need a few more bolts removed, but it appears they are all 12mm heads, so easy-peasy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do both strut bolts need to be marked and replaced to ensure proper alignment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the top bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;How should I mark the bolts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a punch. If that isn't available, use a black permanent marker and do not use any lubricant, or you will remove the marks :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;What can be used instead of a proper punch to remove the roll pins? How thin must it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe you'll need this type of punch with your axle. It should be splined on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Any other advice worth noting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful. If you do not have jack stands or a lift to put your front end up on, don't do this job. Block the back tires and put your e-brake on before lifting the front end. You could take both tires off at the same time after you lift the vehicle, but only work on one axle at a time. This will help you not be confused or get parts mixed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a relatively easy job. It will just take some time. So plan for that eventuality and &lt;em&gt;take your time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T22:33:35.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2015-01-07T23:01:18.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a fair bit of ICE (although mostly European and Japanese cars) and from my experience, unless one of the aftermarket providers has built an adapter you are usually out of luck. There are just too many different standards (or lack of them) for how steering wheel controls talk to head units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - replacements are often very cheap, or you can often replace the actual switches while keeping the fascia controls in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T23:01:18.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15139" CreationDate="2015-01-08T04:47:09.370" Score="13" ViewCount="52897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Focus.  Recently, I've noticed that when I accelerate (step on the gas), all the lights on the car flicker.  This happens to both the dash lights in the car and the headlights outside.  They will pulse bright and dim while I'm accelerating, and when I let up on the gas, the lights return to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9021" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T13:30:59.603" Title="Why do the lights flicker when I accelerate?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T10:39:23.770" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let someone drive my vehicle, someone that I probably shouldn't have. When I got the vehicle back, the heater control panel in the back seat was pulled out and broken. Also, all the wires underneath my driver seat had been pulled out. I didn't realize it but my tail lights are not working. The only lights that are working on my tail lights are the brake lights. Shouldn't the entire taillights be lit up? What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9022" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T16:27:25.307" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T22:52:20.037" Title="04 chevy trailblazer tailight and control issues" Tags="|trailblazer|brake-light|heater-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14913" CreationDate="2015-01-08T11:56:23.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The belt should turn too if they are tight enough, sliding tells that the pulley is worn down or the belt is not tight enough/is also worn down. The fan pulley also includes the waterpump which will provide resistance at higher speeds so it should not slip at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T11:56:23.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T12:46:09.173" Score="3" ViewCount="5695" Body="&lt;p&gt;everyone! I've googled about this issue, but couldn't find much info. I hope that someone could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cold start issue below -10C(14F). If it just -10C it harder to star, but if temperature drops to -15(5F) I have to I have to start 6-10 times until I get car to start. The first 2-4 times it doesn't start at all, after that car starts and immediately chokes (turns off) and I try to start until car really starts or battery dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this problem 4 years. The thing is that past 4 year that cold that I couldn't start car was only few days or week per winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First year I noticed problem, but I got warmer so I didn't do anything. Next year changed glow plugs, but after change it wasn't that cold so I didn't know if it was fixed. Last year winter was warm, I couldn't start the car 1 time. So I wanted to fix car for this winter. In fall I brought car for diagnostics, they told me I have to change glow plug control unit. But they didn't have it at that time, so I bought one myself and changed. I also bought USB OBD wire with INPA,DIS etc. First I connected car, there was glow control unit fault, but it wasn't current(DIS) so I cleared it and it won't came back. And there wasn't any other errors regarding to this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yesterday -10C, today -12C(10F). And I still have the same problem! Today first time tried to start, it started up but it was lauder and twitching and a bit vibrating, sounded like all cylinders wasn't working. I connected PC with INPA try to read error memory and car choked. (that was at same time within 30sec when first time car started). I had to start 4 more time to get it work. After it warmed up a bit vibrating etc. and engine sounded normal. I know if I had pc connected a bit later when car would be warmer it wouldn't choked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes I got today(DIS):&#xA;DDE - 4600 DDE: Rail-pressure plausibility pressure-controlled-positive control deviation&#xA;DDE - 4453 DDE: Injector, cylinder 5, activation - General fault - Fault currently not present&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday these faults weren't there and I think if temperature increases then these faults won't be there. After car warms up a bit I can drive, turn it off and one without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? It's only in cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be battery? I've changed it 4 years ago before plugs. If it would be battery now then the car wouldn't start at all, right? Not started and then choked? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I evaluated the battery in DIS, it shows that the battery is around 50% full. When car is running battery voltage is 14,8V so alternator should be OK, right? I don't know how to test battery after night when car is not running. I think if I run DIS but won't start car it will drain the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions where to look? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for this long post, I wanted to explain in detail. And sorry a bit for my english. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car e60 530d 2004&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9023" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T18:12:49.130" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:16:43.823" Title="Car won't start in the cold" Tags="|bmw|diesel|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2015-01-08T12:47:21.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's technically possible. but in general it requires you or an electrician to make up custom wiring harnesses. In other words: you can't just install the head unit and expect it to work. That would be too simple. Real men have to suffer before they're allowed to enjoy something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that Parrot thought of this and offers the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parrot.com/usa/products/steering-wheel-controls/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UNIKA&lt;/a&gt; interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T12:47:21.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T16:24:21.230" Score="6" ViewCount="4364" Body="&lt;p&gt;When accelerating hard and revving engine around 2000-4000 rpm I smell burnt oil smell from my A/C. The smell is similar when I open the oil filler cap or dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did hunt for oil leaks and solved them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At cmp sensor, this one had no O-ring. Replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On valve cover. Wiped clean and tightened bolts slightly. Still dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Near oil filler cap. Probably didn't tighten well. Wiped and tightened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it still has burnt oil smell..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T18:09:38.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:07:45.570" Title="Burnt oil smell when revving engine" Tags="|oil|mazda|smell|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T17:20:23.230" Score="6" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... It is really freezing and has been really cold these past few days. &#xA;But, my 2001 Subaru Legacy L Wagon started acting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, here are things I know been replaced before I got it - Tires, Brakes, and Catalytic Converter. During this past year I have replaced (in a shop) the spark plugs and wires as part of a tune up. The tension belts - and been told that the timing belt seems fairly new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, about a week ago the car starting showing interesting behaviour. It started on a cold day, there was a strong gas smell coming from the AC. I drove around all day, and by the end of the day I tightened all the bolts and screws I saw - and I guess for most of the fuel line. (did it after reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bazoomer.com/fuelline/fuelline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). Then I noticed a loose rubber hose. It was old, and cracked at the end. I tightened it with a zip tie, then drove to Auto Zone and got a rubber replacement and also tightened it with plastic zip ties. The attached picture shows the rubber hose (circled in red) - and it is the passanger side - just infront of the filter. What is this rubber hose for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed the smell went away, but yesterday and today (really freezing) the smell came back when idling at red lights or stop signs and the heat is on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second weird behaviour that I have experinced is what I can call as momentary power loss. Happened when I am starting to drive from standing at red light, stop sign, or in traffic - the car is vibrating more than usual - then lights and radio are killed and within a second or so are back - the radio is reset as if lost battery power (time and settings are reset). And today, for the first time, the car also jerked when it happened - but then recovered and kept on going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone knows what is that rubber hose is? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any ideas where the gas smell comes from? How much will it cost (roughly) to replace/fix all the fuel lines?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause the power loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FyE8a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="7325" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T10:50:22.410" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:49:30.893" Title="2001 Subaru Legacy L Wagon - Gas smell and light shaking" Tags="|subaru|power|smell|legacy|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:57:38.987" Score="4" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 F150 XLT. I recently had my fule tank replaced because it had a leak. The garage that did the work did say the tank had a hole. Yesterday I picked the truck up. they had put a used tank on it. I would assume they inspected it before installing it but that is not a given. I filled the tank last night and All of the gas with the exception of 1/8 of the tank drained out onto the ground. It was not a pressure spray, it looked more like gas pouring from a faucet and did not change flow with the truck running or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe the leak is on the high pressure side because it continued even when the truck wasnt running. It was pouring out at a amazing rate. It looks like it is some sort of siphoning action that got started when I filled the tank and did not stop until it reached the 1/8 mark. The truck ran fine even while gas was pouring out of it so the high pressure side looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had filled it with 5 gallons just after I picked it up and that did not leak out. Any idea where I might look to see what is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9025" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:41:49.577" Title="2001 Ford F150 Serious Fuel leak" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|leak|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15729" CreationDate="2015-01-08T19:32:34.827" Score="5" ViewCount="6421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '91 Ford Sierra Saphire 2.0 OHC (pinto). Have been struggling with having no charge for weeks now. I've tried two different alternators, had one of them completely rebuilt by a professional, so alternator is not faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time it comes down to the voltage regulator breaking. If I replace regulator, alternator charges for like another 5 miles, then voltage regulator dies again. (I've already repalced it 3-4 times, while trying, I pay 10$ for every possible solution :/ ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've double checked every single connection (alternator B+ -&gt; battery, alternator D+ -&gt; dash, engine -&gt; chassis, battery negative -&gt; chassis, etc.), I have solid Earth everywhere I need to have (at least according to my multi-meter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't had the chance to try another battery. Can a bad battery in any way cause serial voltage regulator faults? If not what else can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9026" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T00:49:40.270" Title="Can a bad battery damage voltage regulator?" Tags="|battery|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T21:17:00.043" Score="5" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this the underlying problem or a symptom of something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Ford Expedition that has a knocking and pinging problem.  Two different mechanics have narrowed it down to the ignition cable (spark plug wire), but I have replaced the cable three times now over four years and I need to do it again.  The replacement normally works for a few months to a year or so depending on the quality of the cable, but then slowly the knocking comes back and gets worse.  It also in the early stages only happens on up hill grades and in higher gears, over time the problem becomes more constant but always above the 2nd gear.  The vehicle is an automatic.  I also have a very slow oil leak I have not fixed on the engine.  I mention them in case they help pin point something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea regarding what the root cause of this might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9028" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:13:31.707" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T18:09:41.273" Title="Ford Expedition knocking and repeated spark plug wire failures" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|ignition|sparkplugs|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14922" CreationDate="2015-01-08T22:06:30.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: While it doesn't help with your specific question, I also agree that you should talk to the police about the damages.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that whoever was monkeying around with your wiring and electronics managed to cross several wires and blow some fuses.  I would start with the fuse box unless you're certain that some of the wiring is damaged.  If that's the problem, fuses are pretty cheap to replace (and at least you'd have functional tail lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T22:06:30.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T01:34:15.010" Score="10" ViewCount="20432" Body="&lt;p&gt;The use of magnetic drain plugs (to catch ferro-magnetic metal particles) is well established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to attach a magnet to the oil-filter?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7941" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T18:18:17.737" Title="magnet on oil-filter- is it a good idea?" Tags="|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14941" CreationDate="2015-01-09T01:57:45.590" Score="3" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mk1 Golf. The previous owner has put in the 3 GTi console gauges but didnt connect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to connect up the water temp gauge (which is the mechanical type with a heat sensing bulb) but still keep the original electric gauge working as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could simply make a hole in the radiator hose and insert the bulb and seal it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would having the bulb within the hose impede the coolant flow at all? Does anyone know another way of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: diameter of hose is 30mm and length of bulb is about 25mm, and 8mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T18:12:58.757" Title="Can I place a mechanical water temp sensor within the radiator hose pipes?" Tags="|golf|gauges|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T04:31:04.617" Score="0" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my truck today and let it run for about 5-10 minutes because it is 10 below zero today. On the way home my temperature gauge read around 190-200 and I noticed that everytime I let off the throttle from 45mph the temperature gauge would drop to about 140. Is this normal? If not what is wrong with it. It's a 2003 chevy silverado 1500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9036" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T04:50:13.307" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T04:50:13.307" Title="truck not staying up to normal operating temperature" Tags="|chevrolet|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5322" CreationDate="2015-01-09T07:38:13.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've understood how they work, now you must think about &quot;when&quot; they work to understand why they're there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A turbo utilizes the exhaust gas to spin a turbine which which is mechanically coupled to another impeller on the intake side which forces air into the engine. As the engine produces more exhaust, the turbo spins faster and produces more boost until the set limit is attained. This limit is controlled by the waste gate , which &quot;sees&quot; the intake pressure and opens up when the limit is reached to vent off or bypass the exhaust gas around the turbo (vented to the catalytic converter or atmosphere), thus preventing it from spinning faster and creating more boost. &lt;strong&gt;It doesn't vent out the intake air.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence , the waste gate controls the maximum boost pressure (limited by how much your engine can take/ turbo rev limit etc).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Changing how much your waste gate &quot;sees&quot; can allow you to increase this limit (increase maximum boost). Look up - ball and spring valves, bleed valves, boost controllers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A blow off valve, on the other hand, lies on the intake side and is meant to open up when the throttle is closed (by sensing engine vacuum). &lt;strong&gt;This vents out the pressurized intake air to the atmosphere.&lt;/strong&gt; This is required because as you rev the engine up , the turbo spools up as well. The instant the throttle is let go, the turbo continues to create boost which now has no where to go. This causes the turbo to quickly spool down which creates a lot of impulsive stress on the turbo. Consequently , the turbo (now having spooled down) will take time to spool up when the throttle is re-applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the blow-off valve protects your turbo by allow it to continue to spin (rotational inertia) and vent out the un-required air, when the throttle is closed. A consequence of which is reduced turbo lag eg. between gear shifts etc. Installing high flow blow off valves may improve turbo spool performance to a perceivable extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T08:34:46.867" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T08:34:46.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14933" CreationDate="2015-01-09T08:51:31.510" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The point of a magnetic drain plug is to check whether there are pieces of metal floating around your engine. It's not so much to keep these pieces from circulating as it is an indicator of the condition of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you see an amount of metal deposits on the drain plug, you know that your engine is experiencing excessive wear and may need to be rebuilt/overhauled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a magnet on an oil filter doesn't make sense because you won't be able to quickly inspect it for the presence of metal shavings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T07:33:44.463" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T07:33:44.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14934" CreationDate="2015-01-09T12:24:43.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want to put it in the hose as it would then destabilize the hose and it would never seal or be viable afterwards. You could possibly split the hose and put a housing in-line to house the sensor, but putting a temp sensor in a hose will not give you the correct engine temperature. It is not the coolant circulated throughout the engine, but bypassed coolant which is either going into the engine or coming out of it (making the side trip through a radiator of one sort or another). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is find a place where you can tap into the coolant at the block. An easy way to do this is to find a &quot;T&quot; fitting which can house both the original temp sensor and allow for insertion of your mechanical sensor as well. This will show you the temperature which you'd expect as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T12:24:43.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2015-01-09T12:49:37.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is a defective thermostat. If by low, you mean the over flow tank is near empty you need to bring it at least close to the normal level. Recheck it over several days. The other possibility is an air pocket. When the air pocket settles in the area of the temp sensor the gauge drops. This is due to air being a poor conductor of heat. This is more likely if the overflow tank emptied due to a small leak that went unnoticed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T16:58:30.747" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T16:58:30.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T20:32:28.800" Score="3" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just got ourselves a new Skoda Superb with a reversing camera but it doesn't show the distance lines that apparently should appear on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We test drove the Passat and saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.satnavsystems.com/main/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Reversing-camera-2Optional-RNS-510-Navigation-System.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it had distance lines on it&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Superb_3T/11-2014/Navigation/Columbus/B6_Superb_Columbus_NavigationSystem.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Skoda manual also shows distance lines on the reversing camera&lt;/a&gt; but our new car doesn't show them – and I may be noobing it up, but I can't find any reference in the manual as to how to turn them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help at all would be appreciated! Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9038" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T20:36:55.803" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:02:31.433" Title="Why don't we have distance lines on a Skoda reversing camera?" Tags="|skoda|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14943" CreationDate="2015-01-09T21:54:41.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can turn them on/off using the touch stuff found on page 38 of the manual you gave a link to. Here is an excerpt from it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBVRA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at Figure 15 (on the left), it says to change the display to use &lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt; (bottom right hand corner of the display), which then flips you over to Figure 16 (on the right). Then try using &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; (upper left) on this screen or possibly &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; (upper right). If all else fails, you can look in the &lt;em&gt;Vehicle Owner's Manual&lt;/em&gt;, in the chapter &lt;em&gt;Assistance Systems&lt;/em&gt;. You might also try turning the camera off (&lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt;), then back on again. This may reset the camera and settings to factory standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T21:54:41.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14845" CreationDate="2015-01-09T22:36:18.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/shift-solenoid-A-and-B-tests-1#1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Symptoms&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm honestly not sure what it looks like to fix this issue, all of my vehicles have been manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9044" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T22:36:18.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5034" CreationDate="2015-01-09T23:47:39.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem with my 2010 300 and I now think it is a design flaw.&#xA;Later models have fixed the problem with door vents that help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also in Ontario and this winter &amp;lt;2015&gt; is proving to be tough for fogging the windows. What seems to work is running the defog on full blast (which is noisy, unfortunately) and keeping the temperature inside at about 20 Celsius. Warmer temperatures seems to make the problem worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What also works is leaving a couple of windows cracked open. This makes driving visibility better, but makes driving comfort pretty low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What doesn't work, in my experience, are any window-treatment products that are available. None have been successful in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heater core, coolant hoses and system and vents were all in good working condition in my 300, but the windows are always fogged up regardless. I've never had such a problem in any other car that I've owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noted that in the summer the air conditioning has to be turned up to a high fan speed to feel effective, which makes me wonder if the car just has a lousy comfort system. The car is great, otherwise, but the fogging windows is a serious negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9045" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T23:47:39.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14956" CreationDate="2015-01-10T07:28:21.017" Score="4" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Mk1 Golf (1993, 1.8lt, mechanical injection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving up a medium incline and suddenly my car starting sputtering and I lost acceleration. I pulled over and started the engine again to listen. I checked the air intake and boot for leaks, there were none. Fuses were fine. Fuel levels were OK - about 1/2 a tank. Tempreture was fine - its warm here and I had already been driving fro about 30 mins. There did seem to be a distinct whining coming from the fuel pump though. Every time I started the engine it would run for a little bit then sputter out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rang a friend who brought tools but when he arrived and started the car again it was fine. I was able to drive home (5 mins) with no issues. The fuel pump even sounded fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plugs and fuel filter are only about 6 months old, so I dont think its them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A theory I have is that maybe some crap in the fuel tank got caught in the lifer pump filter and temporarily blocked the fuel lines. Possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T21:18:55.123" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T21:18:55.123" Title="Engine sputtering, not accelerating. Left for 20 mins and is now fine?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|vw|golf|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2015-01-10T12:14:07.760" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine has no Oil Pressure when in Stop Mode, Start Cycles will wear out stress Bearings&#xA;faster from low/no Oil Pressure Cycling with very short time to increase Oil Flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a new Battery, then Starter, then Engine  !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EPA does it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9047" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T12:14:07.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This indicates a fuel vapor leak or lack of purge flow in the EVAP&#xA;  control system. It means a large leak has been detected. The (EVAP)&#xA;  emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a&#xA;  vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal&#xA;  canister for storage. Later, when the engine is running a purge&#xA;  control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors&#xA;  into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0455&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-Codes.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" Score="0" Body="P0455 - Evaporative Emissions Problem" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T15:45:37.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T19:55:25.230" Score="2" ViewCount="10980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 ford fusion. After letting the car heat up, I went to the store and the heat was working fine. I get back home while parking I noticed the car was blowing cold air. I cut it off and then back on and the same thing; it didn't get hot again. It was fine last night and a few minutes ago. What could of happen that quick? Since I tried cutting it off and letting it get cold again, then warming it up, I still get the same results. The heat is blowing cold. Any ideas on what I could do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9050" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T20:59:53.677" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T06:32:42.917" Title="Car just started blowing cold air" Tags="|ford|heat|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2015-01-10T20:39:23.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;don't to nothing with your car let it stand on a leveled place then open the bolt and drain it out or you can rise it up a little bit up form the behind and drain it out this will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9051" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T10:04:05.830" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T10:04:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14952" CreationDate="2015-01-10T21:03:47.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities here as I see it. First, it could be that the thermostat is bad and stuck in the closed position, not allowing hot coolant to flow into heater core. You could easily check to see if this happening by first finding the heater hoses which route from the engine through the firewall of the engine compartment. With the engine warmed up, check both hoses to see how warm they are. If they are not very warm, this is probably your problem. If both are very warm, the blend door which routes the air through the heater core inside of you cabin is probably stuck in the &quot;cold&quot; position. You'd have to tear the underside of the dash apart to get to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T21:03:47.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T21:12:20.877" Score="3" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 civic lx standard ... Recently on way home from work it started making a knocking sound after I let go of the gas . I pulled off fwy put it up on two jacks engaged gears accelerated then decelarated and it was fine no noise. I put it off jacks continued to drive home and nothing changed its still there a knocking loud noise that goes away after I accelerate or hit the brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9052" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:30:47.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:30:47.443" Title="95 manual civic... loud knocking sound when decelerating" Tags="|honda|civic|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T02:59:17.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14948" CreationDate="2015-01-10T21:18:47.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Golf should have two fuel pumps: one for the injectors (high pressure) and one which feeds the injector pump (low pressure). The low pressure pump would reside in the fuel tank. I'm thinking the low pressure pump may be going bad, as in getting weak. If it were starting to overheat, it may not pump fuel like it is supposed to and would cause the loss of engine power and allow the car to start sputtering and behaving poorly. Once you let it sit for the 20 minutes, it cooled down completely and was able to work for the five minute drive home. The only way (I can think of) to check this is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the input fuel line to the injector pump and read the pressure &lt;em&gt;while it is behaving as you described&lt;/em&gt;. You'd have to see what the pressure reading was prior to any problem, then what it was when acting up. This may be hard to accomplish, because a failing fuel pump may work just fine one minute, work intermittently (or poorly) the next, and may just fail outright some time near in the future after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T21:18:47.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14975" CreationDate="2015-01-10T21:53:05.997" Score="4" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the bearing and hub for my 4runner (4wd). I have already replaced the rotor and brakes before. I believe this part replacement is basically the same (just one step further which involves removing the wheel hub and bearing assembly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is the replacement the same for 4wd vs not 4wd, and if I've already done the rotor replacement is it basically very similar to replacing the bearing and hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7842" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T02:00:54.450" Title="Is DIY bearing and hub for 4wd ok" Tags="|toyota|wheels|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14957" CreationDate="2015-01-10T22:57:11.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is definitely not the same between a 4x4 and a 4x2 vehicle. The major difference between the two is that in a 4x4 application, there is the drive shaft which runs through the middle of the hub. You have to remove this in order to get to the bearing. 4wd is much more involved than a 2wd. Not knowing which year of vehicle you have, I cannot tell you &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; how they differ, but needless to say, there's a bunch. Replacing the rotor for the breaks is a pretty straight forward operation. Depending on the setup, in order to change out the bearings the &lt;strong&gt;additional&lt;/strong&gt; steps may (or may not) include (but are not limited to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing the drive shaft (as I mentioned)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing the steering knuckle (breaking the upper/lower ball joints)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressing out old bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease packing the new bearings (if needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressing in new bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstallation of the knuckle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment of front end after assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other things involved as well. Without the Year/Model of your vehicle, this makes it a little harder to pin point the steps needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T22:57:11.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14915" CreationDate="2015-01-10T23:54:32.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Post-job answers to my own questions. Went very smoothly. About 3 hours for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Should the procedure for this car be same as a 2004 Impreza Outback Sport?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but the video in Paulster2 post above is better. But unlike that video, there is a roll pin that holds the axle to the transmission in my car. You need to bang it out with some kind of punch (~5mm). One thing that held me up is that the holes will not line up if you push the transmission spline all the way into the axle. it needs to be pulled out about 3mm or so. Also note that the holes only line up in one orientation (out of 360 degrees): the spline is not perfectly symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2.Should the axle nut be loosened before or after lifting the car?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After. You need someone to depress the brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3. Are the only bolts that need to be removed the ones holing the knuckle to the strut?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bolts that hold the brake and ABS lines to the strut. They hold the knuckle back and make it harder to remove/insert the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4. Do both strut bolts need to be marked and replaced to ensure proper alignment?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5. How should I mark the bolts?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a picture with a smartphone and used the pre-fab markings on the bolt &amp;amp; strut to preserve the alignment. No need to make physical markings. The pre-fab ones are much more precise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;6. What can be used instead of a proper punch to remove the roll pins? How thin must it be?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic let me borrow a tool he made out of a cylinder head bolt, but I reckon one could use a 2-inch bolt of the proper diameter. Just buy a punch -- I got a set of punches and chisels for $15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7. Any other advice?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a one-man job, except for loosening the axle nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a breaker bar or extending pipe. Axle nuts in particular are on there real good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a torque wrench up to 200 ft/lbs for the axle nuts. They need to be cranked at about 170. If you don't have a torque wrench, 170 ft/lbs is like, really really a lot of ft/lbs. I am medium-strong man and it's about as hard I can torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently you can remove the roll pin for the passenger side from inside the hood, but I didn't bother. You have to remove some other components, and it's not so hard to get at the pin from underneath, although it is definitely more difficult than the driver's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T23:54:32.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2015-01-11T00:17:24.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back the car up on the ramps so the rear wheels are up, if that allows the plug and filter to be accessible. Be sure to put good (not plastic) hocks on the front and test the integrity before you go under. Remember the weight is in the front and if your not on a completely level pavement it will roll off the ramps and then your bug food. Krona solution btw is the right one, but not really answers the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9054" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T00:17:24.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T00:40:31.800" Score="4" ViewCount="21581" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely some internals of the engine will be running &quot;dry&quot; for a short time after a filter change i.e. until the filter becomes full and passes oil.  However the makers do not suggest priming the new filter. Priming a filter is a messy job that I have always done, but my question is, am I wasting my time?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7941" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T22:36:45.420" Title="should oil filter be primed" Tags="|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T01:02:33.053" Score="3" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to locate the drain for the radiator in my Toyota Hiace, but I can't seem to find it. Can anyoe give me a detailed description of where it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9055" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T08:21:52.667" Title="76 Toyota Hiace radiator drain" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14961" CreationDate="2015-01-11T01:12:57.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can prime it, you should. I mean, if the filter sticks out sideways, there is just about no way to prime it and not make a mess. I have a car where I have an element filter which goes in the top of the engine. There is no way to prime it (as the oil would just run back down into the engine anyway). The reason you prime it is to try and &lt;em&gt;minimize&lt;/em&gt; the amount of time the engine is ran without oil. The shorter the better (obviously). Always make sure you put &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; oil on any seals which are on the filter as well. This will help for a proper seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T01:12:57.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T16:10:01.950" Score="2" ViewCount="4185" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's maintenance schedule says I need to service every 7,500 miles or 6 months. It is now 6 months but my cars has only 4500 miles. Do I still need to get it serviced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I follow the service schedule of 6 months or the 7,500 miles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I follow miles I probably won't need to service until around 10 months. Will this void the warranty on the car or will it not get affected? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9061" LastEditorUserId="9061" LastEditDate="2015-01-11T16:15:18.873" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T16:47:49.490" Title="Time based versus milage based service" Tags="|maintenance|hyundai|scheduled-maintenance|service|servicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-11T23:29:31.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14967" CreationDate="2015-01-11T16:47:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guidelines are &quot;which ever comes first.&quot; So in your case, you'd need to do it at 6-months, not at 7,500 miles. Yes, if you do not follow these instructions, you do run the chance of voiding your warranty, but that really depends on the manufacturer and what they will allow. Some are a little easier than others, but they give you a maintanence schedule for a reason. Believe me when I say, if you don't follow it, it is a prime way for them to legally say, &quot;Sorry, not our problem because you didn't complete the maintanence as scheduled.&quot; If they don't have to pay for something, they will find a way. And since you didn't do the maintanence correctly, they will use that against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a reason for actually changing the oil on time before the mileage comes about is that the additive packages in oil will break down over time, just as they will breakdown with mileage. You want to keep the level of protection your engine (or other mechanical parts) need. You can never go wrong with the routine maintanence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T16:47:49.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T19:46:09.623" Score="6" ViewCount="7568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4217172/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1&quot;&gt;The Perfect Road Trip 2&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Top Gear, where at some point Richard Hammond is driving a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mercedes-amg.com/a45.php&quot;&gt;Mercedes A45 AMG&lt;/a&gt;. He says that the car develops a whooping 355 BHP, and all that comes from a turbocharged 2.0L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now genuinely wondering what are the advantages of having a relatively small engine (2000cc) with such a high power output (~350 HP), rather than going for a bigger engine (say 3000cc or more, which is more common to see with around 350 HP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What good is it? I don't think it has something to do with taxes or costs to the end user, since we're talking about a +40K car. Is it because a small engine means easier development? More common parts (doubt that as well)? Is it because the original A Class was a small car, hence it had to stay that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, are there downsides in having this kind of engine? I expect it not to last as long as other engines, since it's so overpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, I am a total rookie when it comes to this subject, so please bear with me for any error/oversight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9062" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2015-01-11T20:26:03.157" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:39:38.830" Title="What good is it for an engine to have lower CCs and higher BHP?" Tags="|engine|mercedes-benz|power|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2015-01-11T20:18:41.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages to a lower displacement engine over a larger one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly is weight, an engine of 2,000cc will weigh significantly less than a 3,000cc engine because it will have a smaller block, this in turn decreases inertia of moving parts (such as the cylinder head and cam shaft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly we can factor in fuel economy, if an engine has the capacity for 3,000 cubic centimetres of fuel/air mixture it will naturally burn more fuel on average. If an engine can produce the same power with better fuel economy, it is infinitely better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly would be size, a smaller engine can be placed in more convenient locations in the engine bay/car, cars can be generally smaller if the engine is smaller which would also contribute to my first two points. This point also significantly affects the weight distribution and handling, which would be easier to manipulate the smaller the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other points to think about is the cost of the engine (which would be significantly lower the smaller the CC), Carbon Dioxide and other pollutant emissions (worse and more expensive to pay tax for in some contries in a larger car) and finally a small (but noteworthy factor) is public stigma, a lot of customers would be dissuaded to buying a car with a 3 litre engine because of the consensus that they are over-powered and too expensive to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T20:18:41.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2015-01-11T20:46:55.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No heat or hot air during idle is the result of air gap in the heater core. Open hood, driver side fire wall you will the see the heater core rubber hoses. Remove the two hose clamps. Disconnect both hoses from the metal extension tubes (not the hose clamps located at fire wall, these are to difficult to reach). Use a funnel and fill both heater core hoses with 50/50 Dex-Cool (it does not take much, maybe 8 to 12 oz). Reconnect both hoses and reconnect both hose clamps. Fill overflow reservoir to proper level. Fill radiator to proper level. Now you will have heat at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9063" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T00:38:12.473" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T00:38:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14962" CreationDate="2015-01-11T22:49:42.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the left side (as you sit in the vehicle) of the radiator. It will be at the bottom and possibly hidden by the plastic fan shroud. It may look like a wing nut shaped plug or a conventional petcock. Or the right hand side about 1 inch from the bottom, on the front of the radiator, just looks like a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T08:21:52.667" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T08:21:52.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2015-01-11T23:05:20.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to size, weight and fuel economy, a small, highly tuned engine is going to be much more ecologically friendly. This is because a large engine producing 350 bhp can do it without being highly tuned - fuel is unlikely to be fully burned, emissions will be higher than with a smaller engine which can burn fuel more fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T23:05:20.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14957" CreationDate="2015-01-11T23:24:32.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several suppliers sell a hub and bearing assembly. While more expensive it makes replacement a one trip job. There is no need to bring the assembly to a shop to have the hub removed and installed from the bearing. It does appear that once the rotor is removed you have access to the four bolts that retain the bearing to the knuckle. It will also require the axle nut to be removed. That said, be aware that the bearing to knuckle fit is tight. The bearing assembly may come out with a few taps with a hammer. It may also require heating with a torch, use of a slide hammer or gear puller. Of course there is no way to tell until you start taking it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T22:50:23.897" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T22:50:23.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2015-01-11T23:58:56.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure battery connections/post are clean and battery has at least 12.4 volts.&#xA;Check and make sure wires to your starter are not making ground connection to any metal, and are exposed and not covered to anything metal. Also, could be the starter/alternator.   Process of elimination -- more then likely it's electrical, not the motor. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9066" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T00:36:20.507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T00:36:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-12T00:31:28.673" Score="4" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past 2 weeks or so my car has been making a chirping sound near the intake manifold and the accelerator. The chirping sound comes and go, and about a week ago I had an issue where my car stalled out when driving at a low speed out of a parking lot. I put in some dry gas seeing how the weather was extremely cold, and the stumbling and stalling out seemed to go away. However, today as I was leaving a Walmart parking lot my car stalled out several times and it definitely was directly related to the chirping sound. When the chirping sound would start up it would almost make like a &quot;dying chirp&quot; sound and the car would die. However, I could easily start the car back up each time but then I could only go a little bit forward and the car would die again. However, after about 4 or 5 stall outs I was able to drive the car to a more remote part of the parking lot where I opened up the hood and looked around. I was able to drive the car home, although it seemed like it was going to stall out again (the car wasn't chirping the whole ride home until near the end where the car started to stumble a bit). I am very confused by this because I can't really pinpoint it at all. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9067" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:53:41.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:53:41.950" Title="2003 Ford Taurus SE, Vulcan engine - Chirping sound from intake manifold, car stalling out?" Tags="|engine|ford|fuel-system|stall|taurus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14980" CreationDate="2015-01-12T07:02:04.237" Score="2" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I noticed that my Lumina 2008  has some white stains on the dashboard. Previously I used to gently wipe it with soft cloth with tap water. But now I started to clean it with drinking water and not the tap salty water... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the dashboard it has spots - is there a way to remove them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqkxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9068" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T10:02:28.590" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T10:17:43.317" Title="How to remove white stains from Lumina Dashboard?" Tags="|car|cleaning|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2015-01-12T08:40:53.567" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are advantages, but also disadvantages to using a smaller turbocharged engine with a higher power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pro's of smaller, turbocharged engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When not on boost (below e.g. 3000RPM) the engine uses much less fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turbocharged engines have a flatter torque curve, meaning they're working closer to optimal level throughout a larger portion of the rev range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engines weigh less, helping to increase power/weight ratios.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're much easier to customize to get the characteristics you want. You can either have a powerful, high-boosting engine or an economical, low-boosting engine simply by modifying the electronic control unit parameters, e.g. max boost pressure and timing advance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The con's of smaller, turbocharged engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbochargers produce lots of extra heat and stress, significantly shortening the life of an engine. a 3000cc NA engine can easily last for 200 000 miles, but you'll struggle to achieve the same figures in a 2000cc turbocharged engine unless you drive very conservatively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the additional strain that turbochargers put on an engine, the internals need to be of higher quality, ergo they're more expensive. Cars like the Astra VXR, A45 AMG, RS3 and WRX STi usually require forged pistons and connecting rods be installed to deal with the higher pressures and heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbo engines require premium fuel, which is more expensive. Because of the nature of the engine and the increased temperatures produced by forced-induction, premium fuel is needed to prevent premature detonation (knocking). A higher grade fuel actually requires more effort to ignite, which sounds counter-intuitive, but it makes sense when one researches how engines work. This may be a problem when you live somewhere where premium fuel is not a available. E.g. my Subaru requires a minimum of 95RON fuel, which is also the maximum RON fuel available in our country. I actually have to use an additive to artificially boost the RON value of the fuel I put in just to keep it from destroying itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbos break. And they're expensive to repair or replace. Expect a turbo to last around 100 000 miles, which means that if you're buying a secondhand turbo car, you'll probably need to replace the turbo at some point. And that usually costs at least $1500, bu may be significantly more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T08:40:53.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14978" CreationDate="2015-01-12T10:17:43.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They may be hard water spots. I would try some diluted vinegar applied with a soft cloth. If need be increase the strength of vinegar if some are stubborn. Once it is clean apply an automotive plastic treatment available at auto parts suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T10:17:43.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14961" CreationDate="2015-01-12T14:38:27.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen an owner's manual or service manual for a passenger car/truck/van that advises priming an oil filter either, as you said in your question too. So if the manufacturers don't say to do it, then you don't need to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your oil filter is in such a place that you can add some oil &amp;amp; get it attached &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; easily spilling oil all over the engine, floor, or yourself, then it couldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But many engines I've seen have the oil fill cap on top of the valve cover. Especially if there's only one valve cover (inline 4 or 6-cyl), when you pour in new oil it will be flowing down through the engine anyway.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So when you start it a minute later (as recommended in service manuals I've seen before &quot;topping it off&quot;) there will be some oil coating some of the engine, probably a lot more than if it had been sitting overnight. Along with fresh oil and a still-warm engine, I don't think there will be enough extra wear to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't risk spilling oil everywhere, so I don't do it. And mechanics I've seen &amp;amp; talked to don't do it either. I wouldn't say you're &lt;em&gt;wasting&lt;/em&gt; your time, but I think you could be spending it more productively doing something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T14:38:27.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-12T14:55:35.313" Score="2" ViewCount="1179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VIP Future Champion which I ride on a daily basis. I can jump it and it will start. But as soon as I shut it off it won't restart. I've tried to kick start it but there seems to be no compression. It has a new battery. Any suggestions would be a great help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9072" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:42:50.977" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T01:09:03.757" Title="scooter won't restart after shutting off" Tags="|starting|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14985" CreationDate="2015-01-12T18:19:47.143" Score="14" ViewCount="64117" Body="&lt;p&gt;AGM batteries are capable of being charged at a faster rate, and may draw additional amperage from the alternator if it is not regulated. Many cars that come with AGM batteries have special charge rates (newer Porsche Cayennes that come with AGM batteries have a setting in the computer for this, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an older Porsche Cayenne Twin Turbo that does not come with an AGM battery. Is it always safe to replace standard batteries with AGM variants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:34:29.707" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T01:07:27.653" Title="Can I safely upgrade to an AGM battery?" Tags="|battery|alternator|charging|aftermarket-upgrade|porsche|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14984" CreationDate="2015-01-12T18:29:47.113" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes for the most part an AGM is a drop in replacement for your standard Lead Acid Battery. The charging voltages are almost identical. You are correct that they have a lower internal resistance and can be charged at a much faster rate. This shouldn't cause a problem on the majority of vehicles as the wiring in the car is designed to handle the maximum rated output of the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T18:29:47.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14988" CreationDate="2015-01-13T00:53:44.687" Score="4" ViewCount="3593" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light came on and the mechanic said the problem is that the secondary air injection pump motor broke. It's a used car (2004 VW new beetle) with about 150,000 miles on it and the parts and labor would be over $700. Is it worth it or even necessary to get this replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9077" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:37:34.547" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T23:46:16.930" Title="Is a secondary air injection pump motor necessary?" Tags="|fuel-injection|emissions|smog-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14530" CreationDate="2015-01-13T01:04:21.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to use a flexible body filler specifically intended for polyurethane bumpers. It looks like the filler you used has detached from the substrate due to flexing (which could be solely due to temperature and not impact). The filler you used was for small dent repair on non-flexible metal panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't know how big of an area you filled but the painted area is larger than the area that a &quot;small dent&quot; would cover. Damage of that size and on that material requires special fillers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T01:04:21.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14986" CreationDate="2015-01-13T01:56:36.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will probably be necessary to fix the problem in order to pass emissions requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_air_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;secondary air injection pump&lt;/a&gt; on the Beetle is apparently used to accelerate the transition from cold start to hot catalytic converter operation.  Without this system, it will take longer for the catalytic converter to reach operating temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emissions regulations vary by location, of course.  Where I live, one of the factors that is tested is that time of transition from a cold cat to a hot (much more efficient) cat.  I doubt that your vehicle would pass without the assistance of the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, it's your car and your money.  You have to decide whether it's worth spending one on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T01:56:36.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T07:58:30.460" Score="12" ViewCount="5332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2 stroke motorcycle, it's Kawasaki KR150. When I try to do some jetting on its carburetor (it's Keihin PWL26), I saw that there's an air screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I've been wondering about this air screw on 2 stroke motorcycle carburetor, since I'm a newbie to this things I tried to browse on so many sites and asked people. Some of them said that this air screw only affects the pilot jet which is the jet from 0-1/4 throttle, but there are also people and sites that said this air screw affects the jet from 1/4-full throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is true about these theories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if it's true that the air screw only affects pilot jet, how about main jet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of something like &quot;air screw&quot; that affects for main jet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9081" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:37:04.913" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:37:04.913" Title="Does the air screw only affect the pilot jet?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|kawasaki|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14983" CreationDate="2015-01-13T08:12:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to unplug your spark plug and then kick start it.&#xA;Watch the tip of the spark plug, if it doesn't make any spark try to replace this spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9081" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T08:12:49.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T10:04:38.470" Score="2" ViewCount="5095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just trying to figure out whether my car's issue is a worn out clutch or a damaged 5th gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going up through all the gears, there's no resistance, slipping, grinding or any other suspicious noise. There's no difficulty or resistance in changing gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However once the car is in 5th (overdrive) gear, it travels smoothly for a little while and will then start 'hopping' along (a bit like either a fuel blockage or the hopping a learner driver sometimes gets while learning to drive a manual car).  This has me thinking that the 5th gear is damaged but someone suggested it's the clutch - but if it's the clutch, wouldn't the issue show up in the other gears?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched quite a few video's on how manual transmissions work which makes me think it's the specific gear that's the issue, however the person who suggested the clutch is a motor-vehicle wrecker/mechanic so I figure he'd know what he was talking about?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any (useful) feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9083" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:25:25.520" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T17:22:55.587" Title="Clutch or damaged 5th gear?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14994" CreationDate="2015-01-13T12:10:45.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it really only happens in 5th gear, and all the other gears are perfect at the same RPM, road, load, etc... then just from that evidence I'd guess it's something about 5th gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what &quot;hopping along&quot; means, maybe it's a local saying and your local mechanics know it and it really is something to do with the clutch. Even so, if you can get a mechanic to go for a drive with you &amp;amp; experience it for themselves they should be able to tell you their opinion a lot better than anyone else. A repair shop should have someone available for a few minutes to drive around the block with you &amp;amp; give you at least a guess and an estimate of what they would charge to really find out what the problem is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you can figure out exactly what conditions cause it to &quot;hop&quot; then it would be easier to show a mechanic, and help figure out what's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said it's like a fuel blockage, maybe you're lucky and it's just something simple like a fuel or air filter or something a lot cheaper than taking apart a transmision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T12:10:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T13:26:05.300" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine turns over but wont start. While trying to start it, it gave a backfire, I changed the spark plugs plus oil hoping hat would fix it but no such luck. Any suggestions as to what could cause or to fix issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9086" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T14:36:40.043" Title="My 1999 Mazda 626 LX just shut down." Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14997" CreationDate="2015-01-13T14:36:40.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To run, an engine needs 3 things - the correct fuel/air mixture, compression, and spark. If any of those are missing, it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you try to start it, does it sound like it normally would (i.e. not turning significantly faster or slower than a normal start)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have enough of the right sort of fuel? (sounds like a silly question, but you'd be surprised!), and can it get through? Are there any filters that might be blocked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mention of a backfire suggests to me that it's most likely spark that's missing. You've changed the plugs, but have you checked the coil/coil pack and HT leads(wires)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check, take one of your old plugs, and connect it to one of the plug leads, then lay it on top of the engine (so that the metal side of the plug is sitting on a grounded metal bit). Get an assistant to try to start the engine, and watch the plug for a spark. DO NOT touch it while you do this - you could get a nasty shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T14:36:40.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T14:41:38.617" Score="8" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I submitted a post on here regarding a broken ground electrode on the spark plug of my 2005 Suzuki RM125:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/14723/bottom-piece-of-spark-plug-broke-off-in-motorcycle-engine&quot;&gt;Bottom piece of spark plug broke off in motorcycle engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I found out what caused this. The piston is traveling too high in the cylinder and actually running into the spark plug. After riding with a new plug (NGK BR9ES), I took it out and noticed that the ground electrode had been bent all the way to the center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAG21.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing my piston to travel so high and slam into the spark plug? My best guess is something in the bottom end (crank, rods, etc.) is worn or out of place. Am I going to have to replace the entire bottom end? Or maybe just the crank bearings. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:39:25.183" Title="Two-stroke dirt bike piston running into spark plug" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|sparkplugs|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15000" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-13T14:56:25.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T14:56:25.263" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T14:56:25.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15001" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-13T14:56:25.263" Score="0" Body="Fuel system covers the components of a car responsible for fuel delivery; tanks, pumps, filters, pipes. Questions on carburettors and injection systems have individual tags" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:33:21.170" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:33:21.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14999" CreationDate="2015-01-13T15:47:39.710" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best bet is that the spark plug is too long in the first place. I don't know what the stock spark plug should be for your bike, but the NGK you are showing may/may not be completely within spec and therefor is extending down into the cylinder longer than the spark plug should. If the bottom end was worn out enough to allow the piston to travel that far up into the cylinder, your whole rotating assembly would be shot. Realize that tolerances are measured in 1/1000's of an inch. To come into contact with the spark plug would take 1/10ths of an inch to accomplish. You'd be hearing a lot more banging around happening of this was the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,34589,parttype,7212,d,2005_SUZUKI_RM125_125cc_Spark_Plug.html&quot;&gt;RockAuto.com&lt;/a&gt; is showing the following sparkplugs for your bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AUTOLITE Part # XS4063 (Iridium)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CHAMPION Part # 89041&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CHAMPION Part # 686 (racing plug - non-resistor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AUTOLITE Part # 4063 (copper resistor style plug)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go to a power sports store with your plug in hand and see if these plugs are noticeably shorter than yours. I'll bet you'll be surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you might be able to do is to put a second sealing washer on there. This may or may not allow a perfect seal, though. It would definitely pull the spark plug out far enough to keep it out of the path of the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T15:47:39.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7136" CreationDate="2015-01-13T17:14:02.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my first car, similar to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motorized antenna has little plastic teeth that allow it to move up and down and the plastic teeth near the top was worn down so it would always stick up a couple inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a similar issue so you might want to check that. I had to replace the antenna and if I recall it wasn't too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9088" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T17:14:02.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T18:08:43.043" Score="3" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions&#xA;1) I'm planning on buying a car off of someone on Craigslist and this will be my first time buying a car, is there any paperwork or anything that I need? Should the person selling the car be providing all of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) In the state of Florida, can I purchase a vehicle if I don't have a drivers license as long as I don't drive it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9089" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T18:08:43.043" Title="What do I need to purchase a vehicle from someone off of Craigslist?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-01-13T23:07:04.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T23:08:09.917" Score="3" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Buick Park Avenue. When my car is warmed up (no noise the first 15min of driving or idling) it starts to make a squealing noise, something like a belt noise, but it isn't the belt. The noise is coming from the flywheel area between the oil pan and the flywheel. I've used WD-40, spraying the area between the flywheel and oil pan, then the noise will cease briefly then start back up after (it seems) the WD-40 wore out due to friction. I have ideas but putting them together to figure out what to fix. Different mechanics tell a different diagnosis: one is expensive and the other is doable. Could it be the bearings in the motor? Thank you to anyone that could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9092" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T18:33:41.647" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:31:07.400" Title="Squealing sound coming from driver side on 99 park ave" Tags="|noise|buick|park-avenue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14831" CreationDate="2015-01-14T00:49:57.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My subaru does this in winter if i turn the steering wheel before warming the car up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As above, it could be problem with your power steering pump, or fluid.  It might also be your car is idling too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn your wheel, and the pump kicks in, using the engine + pulley to power it.  You're putting a load on the engine when all it wants to do is idle... Normally your car should pick up the revs to compensate for this... but if that isn't happening.. the root cause could be many other things.  e.g. Mass Airflow Sensor, ECU, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to try isolating the problem by turning the car on, in park; then turn the air con on (if you have it).  It should put a load on the engine similar to the power steering pump.  If your car sounds like stalling (cutting off) then chances are the problem isn't your power steering pump, rather something that controls the idle speed of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T00:49:57.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T01:32:31.923" Score="5" ViewCount="17611" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the IAC is that the idle air control valve basically supplies air to the cylinders/engine when the throttle body is completely closed/shut. Per wikipedia, &quot;The ECU can control the amount of air that bypasses the throttle when the throttle is fully closed, thereby controlling the engine's idle RPM.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, the engine can't run without air and fuel (and spark). And... if the IAC is bad (Say a bad solenoid, or the valve itself is jammed) -- you have symptom's of really rough idle, but your engine still runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the engine getting air into it with a bad/faulty/clogged IAC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T21:30:50.273" Title="How does air get into the engine with a bad IAC?" Tags="|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T03:09:34.097" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I turn on my rear defroster it makes an annoying noise. Even when the mode is on the foot well and front defroster. Not really sure if warming up or something with my heater is the problem. I do wait at least 2 minutes to warm up before I head out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9094" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T11:34:10.570" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:05:59.963" Title="How long should I wait to turn on my rear defroster during the winter time?" Tags="|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15010" CreationDate="2015-01-14T05:42:51.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean the rear defrosting wires in your rear window, you should be able to turn it on immediately as it's electrically based. If it's making a noise, I suspect it's the circuit breaker that automatically turns it off based on heat, and you should look into replacing it. What make/model is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, alternatively, you have some sort of auxiliary/rear blower, the noise could be the auxiliary/rear blower motor as the bearings are prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comments, it sounds like this is not a motor issue and varies with engine RPM, which indicates to me that you have a loose belt or worn belt tensioner (causing the loose belt) to the alternator, or an alternator with a bad bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:05:59.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15008" CreationDate="2015-01-14T10:46:02.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the valve is 'closed', it won't completely block the airflow, otherwise, as you note, the engine would choke and stop. Therefore, even if it's stuck in the closed position, some air will still get through. This should result in a slow idle - but of course if the ECU thinks more air is getting in, it will be putting more fuel in, resulting in rough running...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T10:46:02.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15008" CreationDate="2015-01-14T12:05:10.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most electronic fuel injected vehicles, there is more air getting through than what the IAC provides. This can happen with either holes directly in the throttle plates or by having them partially open (very small percentage). This is still metered air (air the computer is aware of), but it is air getting into the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer vehicles with &quot;drive-by-wire&quot; (as opposed to &lt;em&gt;drive-by-cable&lt;/em&gt;) don't even need an IAC as the computer can control the throttle plates directly to allow the air in for idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there seems to be a slight misconception of how the IAC itself works. It is not a solenoid, but a motor which opens a geared plunger (at least the ones I've seen and worked with are this way). The plunger is regulated (or measured) for how far it moves. The computer reads this and can adjust it according to the needs of the engine at idle. Things which can happen to the IAC are the gear can get stripped or it might get stuck partially open. Carbon or varnish (or whatever debris) might get stuck in between the the plunger seal and base and not allow it to close. It can get stuck closed (motor just stops working), but as I've stated, there are other areas where air does get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T12:05:10.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15018" CreationDate="2015-01-15T00:33:36.167" Score="2" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car does not indicate the airbag, when car starts it suppose to lit and turn off. But that does not happen and since that might be something to do with indicator I tried changing the indicator. But that did not helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since indicator does not lit at all, there should not be any error either, as if there is an error it should indicate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advise regarding this would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T01:58:47.783" Title="Toyota Corolla CE110 -1996 Airbag indicator won't lit No error either" Tags="|corolla|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15017" CreationDate="2015-01-15T01:58:47.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities I can think of for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, depending on the year of your car and how the bag(s) are set up, there might not be a light. My son had an older Jeep Cherokee which had a mechanically activated air bag. Because it was mechanical, it didn't have a light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the bulb in the dash may be burnt out. To fix, you'd have to take the dash apart and replace the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T01:58:47.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T02:44:30.743" Score="2" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 HD SL Crewcab. The blower has stopped working with the heater or a/c. I have checked all the fuses I can find in the owners guide and they are good, don't see and problems with wiring or connections,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9102" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T16:26:23.347" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T02:16:11.330" Title="My blower has stopped working with heater or a/c" Tags="|chevrolet|hvac|heater-blower|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T06:18:20.460" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;After installing a rebuilt transmission, it was slipping and sticking in 3rd gear. A 2nd rebuilt transm eliminated those problems but this one has caused major vibrations in gear, or neutral, or park at factory spec 750 rpm idle. When press accelerator to 1,000 rpm, the vibrations stop. Motor + trans mounts + idle air control valve have all been replaced w/ no effect. Mazda service advises they cannot boost the idle due to factory settings. It is even worse when the A/C is on as the idle drops below 750 unlike my Miata where the idle increases when the A/C is on.  Is there a way to change these settings, or place something on the accelerator like a govenor to prevent it from going below 1,000 rpm? I recognize that the torque converter may be defective, but I do not want to spend any more money on the transm and the vibrations are beyond annoying and embarrassing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T06:18:20.460" Title="Vibrations at idle" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T07:21:43.113" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing spark plugs to a 2002 chevy cavalier last one broken and stuck! Tried soaking with wd40 &amp;amp; PB Blaster but still not moving...any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9104" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T07:21:43.113" Title="Broken spark plug stuck/seized in place" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|sparkplugs|repair|replace|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-01-16T19:09:07.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37830" CreationDate="2015-01-15T10:20:38.800" Score="5" ViewCount="16020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 VW Golf Mark 1. I have replaced the mechanical fuel pump in engine compartment, the petrol filter, spark plugs, coil, HT Leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 1300 carburetor model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can start the car no problems, but when I drive anything from 10m to 100km it suddenly just dies. The engine cuts out just one minute goes and next dead. Then I have to wait a while before it will start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it is electrical or fuel issue. I am also not much of a handy man, but I try :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the correct coil is for the 1300 Mark 1 Carb model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9106" LastEditorUserId="9106" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T11:29:27.420" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T17:13:53.493" Title="Engine cuts out VW Golf Mk1 1989" Tags="|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15023" CreationDate="2015-01-15T10:47:43.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've already covered the basics... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect heat-soak, in either the carb (causing fuel vapourisation) or the coil. Do either have heatshields on them? Or are there any heatshields in the engine bay that are missing or damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T10:47:43.347" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15019" CreationDate="2015-01-15T10:49:38.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T10:49:38.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7396" CreationDate="2015-01-15T13:10:09.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced the same problem like yours today but it happened to be timing belt which was broken, after replacing the car was back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9108" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T13:10:09.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15029" CreationDate="2015-01-15T17:07:46.597" Score="4" ViewCount="2971" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda CR-V 2007&#xA;I parked this car on Friday. It would not start on Sunday and the cd changer changed a bunch every time I tried and a few other dash lights came on. It was cold during the 2 days (between 23 and 0 degrees F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jumping the car (Monday morning, 20 hours from the time I tried to start it on Sunday) failed ,resulting in some sparks and then the running lights coming on and this thing with 6 black wires coming out of it making a running noise. Everything faded (took 4 minutes) back off when the donor car was disconnected. &lt;strong&gt;Now Nothing&lt;/strong&gt; would come on in the interior at all during this attempt or after.&#xA;Here's a picture of the engine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Honda/2007_Honda_CR-V_Manu-07_e01-1024.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Honda/2007_Honda_CR-V_Manu-07_e01-1024.jpg&lt;/a&gt; (the black wired thing is upper left, the battery looked like the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was towed to a dealership and their mechanic claims someone hooked up the battery backwards and that fried all the fuses and could have fried the whole electrical system if it hadn't been dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one (that I know of and I had the key) has messed with the car or unhooked the battery between Friday and it arriving at the dealership other then trying to jump start it Monday. It was towed 2 hours after the attempted jump start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what really happened to it?&#xA;Is it even possible to hook up the battery backwards in the picture?&#xA;Can I prove the dealership is lying about the battery being 'sabotaged'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9109" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T18:26:32.227" Title="2007 honda cr-v dead battery, electrical fuses blown" Tags="|honda|electrical|battery|jump-start|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12564" CreationDate="2015-01-15T17:50:38.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a mechanic but I think what you have been told is true.  That is, the wrench light is a separate system that will not appear with OBD2 code readers.   If you think this stinks, I agree.   For the record, I own a OBD2 reader.   It has come in handy for my 3 cars.  Recently, the wrench came on (for the first time ever) with my Ford Freestyle.   The car engine behaved strangely and there was clearly a problem.  With all due respect to the answer above, I don't think it has to do with oil (or, at least, it's not normally or only that).   The wrench light happened a second time to me.   I got out my OBD2 and it did NOT read any error codes.   Thus, I agree with the guy who said it's a proprietary Ford thing.   My Ford dealership also wants $100 to just read the code and diagnose it.  Ridiculous.  But I'll probably pay to find out what is happening.  My $0.02.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9111" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T17:50:38.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15027" CreationDate="2015-01-15T18:26:32.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't very plausible that the battery was hooked up backwards. I believe what the mechanic was trying to say is that when the jump was attempted, the jumper cables were put on incorrectly and damaged everything. &lt;em&gt;This&lt;/em&gt; sounds more than plausible to me. I'm not sure how you applied the jumper cables, but it can be done wrong very easily, especially if you aren't paying attention or if another person connects one side while you connect the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some questions on the proper way to jump start a dead car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9267/is-it-necessary-to-have-the-good-cars-engine-running-when-jumpstarting&quot;&gt;Is it necessary to have the good car&amp;#39;s engine running when jumpstarting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1410/jump-starting-a-dead-battery-connect-black-wire-to-negative-pole-of-battery-or&quot;&gt;Jump starting a dead battery: Connect black wire to negative pole of battery or grounded metal?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2723/is-it-possible-to-harm-your-car-by-giving-someone-a-boost&quot;&gt;Is it possible to harm your car by giving someone a boost?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T18:26:32.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2015-01-15T22:05:20.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What your ears may be detecting is the camshaft specifications. &#xA;In the sixties the flat tappet camshafts were the norm. To get a better picture on how a camshaft works look up &quot;how stuff works/camshaft. Looking at the cam spec graph you will see there is a time when the exhaust valve is not fully closed and the intake valve is on its way open. This is the cams overlap, in part -LSA(lobe separation angle). The duration and overlap between different camshaft designs will give the exhaust a different sound and change the engine characteristics. &#xA;Older cams needed to increase the duration and overlap to gain higher lift. &#xA;Now modern car engines with fuel injection can't tolerate much overlap without throwing codes, running poorly and failing emissions. Cars of the 60s that had that great sound was due, from my experience, to the flat tappet cam which had a longer duration and greater overlap. &#xA;With the advent of the roller lifter, engineers could now put steeper lobes and higher lifts into the cam but if you would tried to do that with a flat tappet cam the edge of lifter would dig into the lobe. &#xA;Today's cars run with shorter duration, less overlap but very high lifts giving great performance!    But without those long durations and large overlaps you lose that muscle car sound we crave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9115" LastEditorUserId="9115" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T02:36:44.003" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T02:36:44.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19008" CreationDate="2015-01-15T22:58:57.443" Score="2" ViewCount="3480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Holden with a 2.0 Turbo engine. On one day I decided to go through a light that had just turned orange- so I pressed down, not completely as I new how much power I needed to go through the intersection. Surprisingly very little power was produced, as if I was two gears higher than I should be. Then I noticed the power (the little it was producing) was not smooth- the engine was shaky. Next thing I noticed the engine sign was flashing. So I parked for a few minutes checking the engine area which looked fine. Started the car again and engine sign was gone. Now I feel the shaking only when I try to accelerate faster that normal, the shaking is very light. What could be wrong with the vehicle? And yes I am taking it for a checkup in a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T14:03:50.857" Title="Engine, sudden reduced power with soft shaking" Tags="|engine|power|turbocharger|shaking|acceleration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T01:15:40.520" Score="2" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Mazda 5 Sedan front tires are hitting while traveling. There is lots of clearance when not moving. We just put 4 brand new tires on 4200 miles ago. Drivers side rubbed a little on the side but it was the top of the tire hitting the strut bracket that cut it up like a lathe. Causing it to blow. The passenger side is just hitting the top and cutting through bad enough to show the metal cords. The old tires are the same size as the new. So would it be the struts or could it be the tire manufacturer. Or possibly something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9116" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:47:40.460" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:47:40.460" Title="Front tires hitting struts" Tags="|tires|mazda|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2015-01-16T09:37:13.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get close to what you want by installing a stainless steel exhaust (as opposed to the standard mild steel). It will give you a more raspy sound. In addition, deleting the center resonator/muffler and adding a freeflowing sports rear box with a large tip (diameter should be larger than the diameter of the pipe coming from the cat) would help too. Just keep in mind that deleting the resonator will make the exhaust resonate in the cabin at certain RPM (usually around 2700 to 3000RPM). It may be annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As folks have said, the shape, profile and materials have changed, so you'll never get to 100%, but you can come close. FYI: Porsche uses butterfly valves in the modern 911's (or at least until 2001 when I learned about it) exhaust to mimic the sound of the classic 911's like the Super 2000, 2.7RS, etc. So it's not like you're the first person to want to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T07:52:19.373" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T07:52:19.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15033" CreationDate="2015-01-16T10:08:27.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got plenty of space when stationary, then something is allowing the wheel to move more than it should - most likely a failed bush or joint. Jack the car up and support it on axle stands, then check the suspension for movement. Try to shake the wheel in various directions, and try getting an assistant to turn the steering wheel from one side to the other while you watch the wheel and suspension. This should reveal the culprit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T10:08:27.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2015-01-16T13:38:16.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean they wanted to change the timing belt, waterpump, auxiliary belt, head bolts, etc, then yes, it sounds about right. I don't live in Britain, but GBP700 is somewhere in the middle of what I paid for a headgasket job for my Astra Coupe (GBP500) and Subaru Forester (GBP1100), so it's not outlandish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some garages might elect to re-use most of the components if they look to be in good order, some others replace them as a matter of course. Best thing is to ask them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T13:38:16.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:35:26.580" Score="4" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my old Honda ST 1100's front brakes failed. It was very sudden; meaning one moment, they worked perfectly, the other, not anymore. There was no gradual decline; no warning, nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has no ABS (or any other braking assistance), but the failure felt as if 'the ABS' was constantly kicking in, from the moment of barely touching the brakes; the brake handle 'snatched back' as soon as I touched it. This even happened at very low speed while walking next to the bike; as soon as I touched the front brake, there was a snappy felling. There was no visual damage to the brakes (as far as my untrained eye could see, on a dark highway); they &lt;em&gt;looked&lt;/em&gt; fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to make it home, since I still had my rear brake and there was almost no traffic whatsoever. I called the mechanic to have it towed, which took three weeks, he test rode it and said there was nothing wrong with the brakes. They just work fine. He came up with replacing both of my tyres -- without asking me first, because of uneven wear, and says the bike is much more stable now. I can definitely believe that, but I don't believe the sudden brake failure can be caused by uneven tyre wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe him, but I also know that my brakes failed suddenly, and that I want this (potential) problem resolved, given the risks involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is twofold: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does anyone have any idea what could have caused this sort of brake failure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it smart to ride the bike again, given that the problem has not been found/resolved?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake failure occurred after a very long ride; I think I had ridden about 450 km. (about 280 miles) before the brakes failed. I honestly feel very hesitant to ride the bike again; if my brakes had failed during a more urgent braking manoeuvre, I may have died or been seriously wounded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T07:13:32.803" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T23:25:22.150" Title="Motorcycle - sudden brake failure - suddenly gone - is it safe?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15037" CreationDate="2015-01-16T16:39:58.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear on what you mean by 'snappy' feeling. Do you mean there was a feedback coming from the brakes? Was it rhythmic, as in, a regular pulsing that increased or decreased based on speed? Or did it feel more random and unrelated to speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You verified there is ample friction material on the brake pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you inspect the brake lines? Follow the brake lines and note if there is fluid leaking from any of the connections in the lines. On the calipers, the fluid will turn to white crystal looking type flakes and only a little will be left behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When was the brake fluid last bled? Water in the lines can cause failure when the system is heated up, usually by braking frequently as this does not give the system time to cool down. Keep in mind, the system is designed to operate properly for the vast majority of street riding, but that is assuming the fluid is being maintained (i.e. the heat is only a problem when the fluid is bad).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I do on my bikes after bleeding the brakes is what I consider to be the backyard mechanic's hydrostatic system test. I pull the brake lever all the way to the throttle and secure it there using a rear wheel tie-down, though anything that can hold the lever there can work just as well (a few strong zip ties, for example.) I then leave the bike in that condition overnight. This also has the added benefit of helping to release small bubbles still trapped in the system, making the brakes feel more firm. The next day I inspect the lines to verify that fluid has not leaked from anywhere. The only place I've ever seen brakes leak from is the crush washers, but I still take care to inspect around the pistons by removing the calipers (Usually just two bolts, but follow the manufacturer's manual and be sure to torque them to spec when installing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bike on its center stand, have a friend sit in the passenger seat so that the front wheel is off the ground. Spin the front wheel to verify that the brakes are not binding. Note that it will not spin completely freely as there is some friction provided by the brakes even when not applied, but usually you can get at least one revolution. If it feels particularly difficult to spin the wheel and it doesn't carry any momentum at all, or very little, then there is something wrong with the calipers, likely requiring a rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that all checks out, you might consider inspecting your caliper, especially the pistons following the procedures in the manufacturer's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety is concerned, any time you get on a motorcycle, especially an old one, there is a risk that some component may fail. I think your best bet is to find a competent motorcycle mechanic and have them inspect the system and advise them not to do any work without your approval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of a way for tires to interfere with braking as you describe. The brake system is not related to tires, other than to provide friction between the ground and the bike. I have had tires that were incredibly out of balance (from the manufacturer) and I have had wheel weights fly off. I've also ridden with a rear tire on the front, and I have no idea what your mechanic means by 'uneven' wear. If he means that the tire was worn more in the center of the tire than the sides, then that is perfectly normal for most street bikes because most riding is with the bike straight up and down, especially when riding on freeways, and especially on heavy motorcycles, like the ST1100. If he means that the rear tire was worn more than the front tire, this is also expected, and, again, occurs more rapidly on heavier motorcycles. If the tire has been under-inflated, then 'cupping' can happen, but usually even novice riders notice this because of somewhat unpredictable, unstable, or hesitant feeling when leaning into corners, even at lower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the laws where you are, but most states in the U.S. require the mechanic to get approval from the customer before doing anything that will cost the customer money, else-wise the customer is getting free labor and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a mechanic were chasing down a brake problem through my motorcycle's tires, I would find a different mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T16:39:58.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T18:22:46.280" Score="1" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car temp reads normal but after warming up the tempature drops showing on the gauge engine is cold and the heat in the car gets cool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9119" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T16:02:31.087" Title="After car runs with temp normal it drops to tempature reading cold" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2015-01-16T18:25:14.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow I can't believe the basics are totally not listed here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, since you know its draining the battery, disconnect the battery, charge it, then check to see if it is still draining on its own. Saying that for anyone that hasn't tried that first to double check the battery itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the basics. The alternator check: you can use a multi-meter to check the input from the alternator while the battery cables are attached to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, hoping that the starter relay is good if you have one, there could be the possibility the starter solenoid has crossover and is draining the battery. Even though you can take the starter to an auto parts store to check it and they ok, it's standard operation (ie: the motor works under load and they can engage the solenoid) they seem to never be able to check if the solenoid is draining, only that it shoots out the bendix fully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you go buying a new starter, there is also the possibility the issue could be the key insert or an electronic position module on the steering column that the key insert moves manually. A quicker way to check that any internal cowl component is not an issue and NOT have to go through all the fuses, is to pull the main electrical plug to the cowl from the engine compartment that supplies its electricity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That only leaves engine components as drain possibilities. If you still have the drain, it may be the starter solenoid. You can replace the entire starter as a unit or just the solenoid if it is a separate component. If it doesn't drain the battery, it could be the key insert or the module it controls, or some other issues as mentioned before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter does not solve it, and the key insert isn't the problem, as a last resort, the starter relay may be allowing pass through, but they usually are good for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9120" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:35:40.287" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:35:40.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15044" CreationDate="2015-01-16T19:16:45.493" Score="3" ViewCount="4239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sticky tire valve core that needs to be fixed, but I don't have a nice garage to jack up the car (2004 Toyota Echo) and take the wheel off (I park on the street and it's at least -15C out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really have to jack the car up, and/or take the wheel off to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T20:48:27.000" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:48:27.000" Title="Do I have to jack up the car to replace the valve core?" Tags="|toyota|tires|echo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15039" CreationDate="2015-01-16T20:13:01.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely your thermostat is stuck in the open position or gets stuck in the open position after the engine warms up. Your best bet is to have it replaced. Since you didn't provide any information about what type of car or any other specifics, there is no way I can answer this question further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:13:01.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15041" CreationDate="2015-01-16T20:47:04.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't need to jack up the car to change out the valve core. Make sure to have your replacement core at the ready. When you pull one core out, insert the other core. Some of the air in the tire will come out, of course, but you won't cause any damage to the tire. Stick your new core into the valve stem and tighten it. You may want to wear some nitrile or latex gloves while you are doing this. The air coming out of the tire will be cold, colder in fact than the outside air temperature. This could cause spots of frost bite on your finger tips if exposed to the escaping air for too long. The gloves will protect them well enough while you do your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to know if the vehicle is equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), though. Some of these have different valve cores than the normal cores, so replace with the right kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:47:04.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T21:41:32.323" Score="9" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1989 BMW 325i, and a few months ago I got a brake lining warning light. I gladly took the opportunity to upgrade from OEM rotors and pads to nice, shiny, new cross-drilled and slotted rotors with street performance pads that came highly recommended from Turner Motorsports, a well-respected online retailer of BMW parts. I didn't replace the calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed the rotors and pads myself, then brought the car into a local shop that's very well known in the area for their work, to put on some shiny, new stainless steel lines and to bleed the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All well and good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Symptoms&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, ever since I put on the new pads (and did all the other stuff), my brake pedal now goes down to the floor, and stopping distance is, well, scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put things in perspective, I can be moving forty miles per hour, then floor the brake pedal to be nearly flush with the clutch (as far down as it can physically go), &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; the car will stop after a second or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any numbers off the top of my head of what comparisons in stopping distance may be between OEM and what I'm facing now, but as someone with experience in the car, something's not right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's where it gets interesting. We brought it back to the shop and asked about why it might not be performing as well, and they bled it again and found no air in the system. But on top of that, they said that it feels fine to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few days ago, I took it to a dealer (this was their first time seeing the car) and they bled it again, and said that it felt fine, too. They also said that they found no air in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm confused. I respect and trust the opinions of each of these places independently (we've been working with each of them for probably fifteen or twenty years), but I also know that I don't feel comfortable driving my car because it just doesn't stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that both mechanics had mentioned is that it could just be that my brakes aren't hot enough to be operating well, particularly since they're apparently very hard material, as I might expect of track pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is three-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I understand that track driving isn't like street driving (obviously), but shouldn't &amp;quot;street performance&amp;quot; pads generally, you know, perform well on the street? If I had gone for straight-up track pads, I'd get that they'd need to be hot. But for one, these aren't &amp;quot;straight-up track pads,&amp;quot; and for two, I've had these ones smoking (literally) and still not been able to stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it make sense that my pads being hard and not heated enough could lead to the pedal going to the floor? I totally get that this could lead to the car not stopping as well, but I'm confused about why the pedal would go &lt;em&gt;further&lt;/em&gt; just because the pads aren't getting as much traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've tried following bedding procedures, but is it possible that I just didn't do that well? Could that lead to these symptoms?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other information&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thought had crossed my mind that this could be a master cylinder problem, but this has been going on for months, and I can't imagine something like that continuing for so long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brake lining warning light is still on, and has been since I did the rotors and pads. I'm assuming this is coincidence and that the sensors are just not connected properly, but they are new sensors and I have checked them with a multimeter and they check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought new front OEM pads and they arrived today, so I haven't gotten a chance to install them, but even if they do work, I'm still curious about how that would lead to these symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One weird, and probably irrelevant thing, I popped off the caliper on one side the other day with one of my friends, and the brakes &lt;em&gt;felt&lt;/em&gt; noticeably worse after that. They were bad before, but they were more consistently bad afterwards. I can't imagine what would have changed, so I'm going with coincidence, but that's another thing to note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put on OEM pads, and I am now able to get ABS to engage (one thing that was sorely lacking with the old pads). But it still really just doesn't feel right, and my pedal is going down just as far as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised, since now the only things I've changed are the rotors and lines, neither of which has anything to do with being track-prepped. But I'm also not surprised, since I can't imagine how pads would make much of a difference with pedal travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T04:02:43.657" Title="Why aren't my &quot;street performance&quot; pads performing well on the street?" Tags="|brakes|bmw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T02:52:51.507" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the alternator and afterwords my car would start, but run like its missing. When I unplug my temp sensor it runs without the missing. Even when it's plugged up, you hit the gas and it wants to fall on its face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9124" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-17T03:51:39.150" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T13:29:11.857" Title="My car starts fine but spits and sputters until I unplug my temperture sensor then runs without sputtering" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T12:50:58.973" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jordan 125T scooter and can't find the fuse box anywhere. I've looked all over the scooter and tried searching on the Internet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about how to find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9127" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:16:17.023" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:16:17.023" Title="Jordan 125T fuse box" Tags="|electrical|fuse|scooter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T15:53:08.330" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white back up lights on this truck will not go off. I've taken the bulbs out for a short term fix since the cops pulled me over to tell me it was distracting. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9129" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T04:12:30.703" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T04:12:30.703" Title="Back up lights do not go off Toyota Tacoma 2002" Tags="|toyota|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T16:00:28.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I shut off my engine and check the oil, it is over the full mark on my dip stick. When I leave the engine to cool down about 5 hours, the oil level is below the full mark on the dip stick. This just started happening after my last oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9130" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T04:12:21.547" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T16:55:55.717" Title="Oil level is lower after a few hours' cool down than immediately after driving" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15052" CreationDate="2015-01-17T17:17:38.037" Score="3" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should the Carbon or Charcoal Canister for most vehicles be replaced? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9132" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:48:50.740" Title="Replacement Interval for Carbon or Charcoal Canister" Tags="|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:48:50.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring an accident which might damage a canister, it should last the life of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:48:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15054" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:50:42.430" Score="4" ViewCount="1175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use impact wrench when you try to loosen the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt?&#xA;Many suggest just that without any concern for possibility of causing the damage to engine mounts, maybe crankshaft bearings, seals etc..&#xA;I think Honda produced that 50 mm hex tool for reason. To hold crankshaft safely and protect it from surprises to say at least.&#xA;Would it be better to use that tool and unscrew the bolt manually.&#xA;Is there a chance that vibration from impact will cause damage or cause some components to fail sooner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9133" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T19:40:36.840" Title="Using Acura or Honda crankshaft pulley holding tool and not impact wrench when loosening the bolt" Tags="|timing-belt|stuck-bolt|pulley|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15053" CreationDate="2015-01-17T21:53:32.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't hesitate using an impact to &lt;em&gt;loosen&lt;/em&gt; the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. The reason for this is because even though there is an impact involved, it is a &lt;em&gt;rotary&lt;/em&gt; impact. The crank itself would incur no damage, nor would the bearings. The bearings take a worse beating during normal operation than they would during crankshaft pulley retaining bolt removal (mind you with proper oil flow, bearings don't usually take a beating, anyway ... but that's a different subject.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if the engine was in the car this may be problematic. You may not be able to get to the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt with an impact wrench (most probably &lt;em&gt;would not&lt;/em&gt; be able to get to it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll noticed I emphasized the word &lt;em&gt;loosen&lt;/em&gt; above. The reason for this is, while I would not hesitate to loosen most engine bolts using an impact, I would almost never utilize an impact gun to &lt;em&gt;tighten&lt;/em&gt; one. Especially where the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt is concerned. The reason for this is you will most likely over torque it using an impact, which will cause issues for you. Also, you never want to use crankshaft bolt to draw in a balancer pulley, but utilize an installation tool instead. The installation tool will be completely engaged on the threads down to the bottom of the hole inside the crankshaft. This gives it enough purchase to run the pulley/balancer onto the crankshaft without the worry of stripping out the threads. By trying to use the bolt, you'd only be using a few (very few) of the threads, which can cause catastrophic results. Believe it or not, it's very easy to strip these threads out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is all of this important? Because you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; most likely need the tool to hold things in place while you are installing the balancer onto the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T21:53:32.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15049" CreationDate="2015-01-17T22:13:02.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is a defective reverse light switch. It should be located on the side of the transmission. The switch is activated by linkage internal to the transmission. The switch is mounted (screwed into the side) externally. In most cases replacement is pretty straight forward. Unscrew the old, screw in the new. I have also seen rare cases where the sockets were installed in the wrong lens. In these cases the tail (running) lights bulbs shine in the white lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T22:13:02.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T03:12:45.953" Score="3" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;e4od is a gear driven speed sensor/ 4r100 is reading directly off tail shaft and signal is much faster causing speed to read much faster. Is there a way to put an in-line adjustable type signal changer that will slow down signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9135" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T17:58:37.630" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:58:37.630" Title="Changing Ford e4od to 4r100" Tags="|electrical|ford|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15064" CreationDate="2015-01-18T10:23:29.220" Score="6" ViewCount="7661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard people say that cars with HPS and Non PS have nice steering feedback while the other cars with EPS  steering's have vague feeling and has no feedback at all.I have driven few cars, A fiat punto , hyundai i10 where punto's steering felt heavy and used to move left and right somewhat when driven over rough roads unlike i10 which was light and move-able with a flick of finger and minor vibrations on the steering on rough tarmac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So , What exactly is steering feel and feedback which a driver gets when driving?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T16:36:58.157" Title="what is exactly steering feedback?" Tags="|hyundai|power-steering|steering|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15046" CreationDate="2015-01-18T13:29:11.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like what could happen if an EGR valve were opening when it shouldn't be - If your car even has an EGR. If it does, try unplugging it's vacuum hose (I'm pretty sure they still worked like that in 2001) and see if it gets better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And does the temp sensor work correctly, if it's the same sensor that supplies the dash board temp gauge, does it indicate correctly? Not always cold or always hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like replacing the temp sensor might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T13:29:11.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15059" CreationDate="2015-01-18T16:36:58.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people.  Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car.  If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that that is purely an input device much like the keyboard and mouse in front of me.  There's a very obvious example of where that is all it is: video games.  Plenty of arcade games in the 80s had wheels that were free-spinning without even the concept of a center point.  This is similar to the Hyundai in your example: you feel like your control inputs are only loosely connected to reality and you're certainly not getting any information back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we start thinking about the wheel as a possible output (i.e., feedback) device as well, it helps to think about the system.  Remember that your rotation of the wheel is directly connected to the twisting motion of the steered wheels (almost always in the front).  Try turning the wheel of a motionless non-power steering car (or one with the engine off).  You'll gain a lot of intuition about the way the system works: very hard to turn in a slow high-grip situation vs. much easier to turn in high speed or low-grip situations.  So, at a basic level, &lt;strong&gt;dynamic steering effort&lt;/strong&gt; is the most obvious form of feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are other mechanical signals that the wheel can send you.  You gave the example of rough roads: &lt;strong&gt;induced wheel motion&lt;/strong&gt; is another form of feedback.  In some cars, you'll feel every bump and dip in the road through the wheel.  In others, it seems like the wheel is floating above the bumpy road.  The first can be exhausting if the wheel tries to jump out of your hand.  The second can lead to overconfidence and thinking &quot;this road isn't so bad.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do we care?  Fundamentally, drivers generally care about transitions and unexpected state changes.  For example, imagine an entrance ramp to a highway that you enjoy scampering briskly up.  On a dry sunny day, you expect that you'll dial in the steering input you want and feel the car's suspension take a set.  Then, holding the wheel against its tendency to straighten out and you'll zoom around the corner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine, however, it's a day like today (where I live) where it's cold, drippy and there are patches of ice hiding under thin puddles.  If you tried the same maneuver, you might dial in your steering and start the turn, again holding the wheel against its tendency to straighten.  If your front wheels hit one of those ice patches, however, it would suddenly become much easier to turn the wheel.  Hopefully, you'd be in and out of that ice patch before a real low traction scenario developed (probably understeering right off the road in this case) but it does illustrate one of the most useful aspects of steering feedback: an alert driver can take the feedback as a warning about changing or dangerous conditions before they actually become a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T16:36:58.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T22:31:15.407" Score="3" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;2000 Dodge Ram 1500, Laramie V8 - 5.2L&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While trying to figure out why the 4WD light flickers on and off (when in 2H, it is off while stopped, will come on or flicker after 15-20mph, may randomly go off at 60mph) I was looking under at the front axle and I noticed there is a red/black tube pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5faPr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When I followed it up (just a foot) I noticed the red tube was broken&lt;/strong&gt;. When I pulled the protective sleeve down to see the red tube , the red inside the protective sleeve snapped off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQNDK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my question is, what is the importance of this red tube, and could it be related to my 4WD indicator light issue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After closer inspection both the black and red tubes had broken apart. I managed to patch them using some thermal tubing, but I suspect that won't actually hold any pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="1717" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T20:33:10.733" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:33:10.733" Title="Broken tubes underneath 2000 Dodge Ram 1500" Tags="|dodge|wiring|4wd|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15068" CreationDate="2015-01-19T02:02:07.590" Score="5" ViewCount="6704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just took our 2005 Subaru Outback in for an oil change, and got the guys to rotate our tires, which they forgot to do last time (so it had been about 7500-10000 miles since last rotation, as we get oil changes every 4-5000 miles).  The tires immediately begin making a lot of noise at speeds above 40mph, and instead of going way, it has only gotten louder and has even begun appearing at 30mph+.  We've put about 1000 miles on the car with the noise, maybe over the last month.  Handling is fine, alignment seems fine (steering wheel doesn't pull at all to the left or right) - everyhting seems fine except for the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have Hankook Optimo H727s, which have about 50-60,000 miles and are probably 3.5-4.5 years old (they came with the care when we bought it in 2011, and they were 90% new).  These tires are unidectional, so they can be cross rotated (X rotated?), but we don't know whow they rotated them - the shop hasn't gotten back to us yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The treads face different directions now on the left and right side of the cars.  I am not sure if they did before.  FR and RR face one way, FL and RL face the opposite way.  Could this be the cause of the noise?  If it was just uneven wear, I would expect it to decrease over time as the effect of the rotation begun to take effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference here is a pic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIvjh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side has the left side of the tread facing outward, and the other side has the right side of the tread facing outward.  Is this normal? Does it matter?  I understand that unidirectional means that any tire could be on which ever way, but does unidirectional mean that the tires don't have all have to be facing the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe the tire is asymmetrical because you can't draw a line through it vertically and fold the one half into the other.  You can do this horizontally, but not vertically.  See one of the four pics below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are no position like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FL FR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RL RR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc6WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FR&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc6WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RR&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc6WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FR&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc6WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RR&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should they be differnt?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9105" LastEditorUserId="9105" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T20:25:53.643" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T19:41:30.697" Title="When unidirectional tires are rotated, do they also need to be flipped?" Tags="|tires|noise|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15067" CreationDate="2015-01-19T02:37:19.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unidirectional tires should &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; be cross rotated. &quot;Uni&quot; implies one, as in one direction (nothing to do with singing). Radials in general should not be cross rotated. They start behaving as you have discribed, with the noise and all. With all this said, I don't believe your tires are unidirectional, but again, once radials have been driven for a period of time, they should stay on the same side of the vehicle. This means only front to rear rotation, provided the front and rear tires are the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T02:37:19.627" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15070" CreationDate="2015-01-19T05:15:27.440" Score="3" ViewCount="2133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to remove a rusted screw in order to replace my rear license plate on my Honda Accord but in doing so, I tore off some of the surrounding material near the hole the screw fits in. My license plate is hanging there with the other screw and some Velcro so a permanent fix is needed but I'm unsure of what to do. As if I attempt to put a screw in the hole with the torn material, it doesn't tighten therefore is useless for holding in the license plate. I would appreciate any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T08:40:33.230" Title="My rear license plate is loose because of a missing screw" Tags="|honda|accord|screw|license-plates|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15069" CreationDate="2015-01-19T08:40:33.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the screw was just screwed into fibreglass, then a simple fibreglass patch is all you need. Cover the hole, and then once it has set, drill a pilot hole and fit the new screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could use a couple of washers and a bolt, rather than a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is not a high load, and is hidden in normal use, you don't need anything that clever or complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T08:40:33.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T09:59:06.557" Score="4" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2006 Honda Odyssey minivan has a weird behavior with the climate control.    When it is very wet, the heat only comes out at full blast when turned on, regardless of what the temperature is set to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever found this to happen driving on the highway in the rain.   It seems to happen after about five minutes after driving in conditions where there is tons of spray totally soaking the car. Today I was driving half an hour on the highway in such conditions and this happened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens, I can turn the heat on for five minutes at full blast until I get to hot, then I turn it off for five minutes until I get too cold.  If I turn the temperature controls all the way to &quot;low&quot;, then it blows cold air.   If I turn it up even one degree (I think to 58), it seems to turn the heat on fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often have the defroster on in these conditions to keep the windows free of fog, and I had thought it might be related to that setting.   But today, I had the climate control set to &quot;auto&quot; when it happened, not on the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem persists until the car has had the chance to completely dry out in the garage overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3057" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T02:29:50.427" Title="Wet conditions cause heat to come on full blast" Tags="|heater|heat|heater-blower|climate-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18653" CreationDate="2015-01-19T11:07:37.367" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Hyundai Sonata 2008 smells sour, when the air ventilation is set to external rather than internal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always immediately turn it to internal air to avoid the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the ventilation hole/filter and where do I need to clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9146" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T13:26:43.447" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T13:26:43.447" Title="External air mode smells bad" Tags="|ac|hyundai|hvac|sonata|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-18T02:39:38.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T14:57:51.327" Score="7" ViewCount="4872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Fiesta 2003.  I was told recently during a service that my power steering pump was leaking.  I took it into the garage, they replaced it and the belt, steering was much smoother, but in doing so they managed to introduce a whole host of weird noises.  Namely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squealing when the wheels are turned just before full lock (wasn't there before)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A thunk (power steering pump turning on) on cold ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A loud whining sound, that I assume was the new power steering pump, proportional to the car's speed (or amount of gas pedal depression, not sure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said that it may just be a noisy pump and that if I had any problems I could bring it back for a warranty replacement.  I did, they replaced it (for free at least) and it feels worse.  Now I don't have power steering when the car is on a cold idle, it only kicks in (again, with a thunk) when I hit the gas for the first time.  No issues driving the car from what I can tell though it feels a touch heavier than it was with the first new pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid level looks OK, just on the max line and doesn't seem to be dropping - I wondered if it was just a case of getting the fluid around the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can always give them a ring and ask them to take another look at it, but I'm tempted to go to another shop for a second opinion.  Any thoughts what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T17:54:36.900" LastActivityDate="2020-08-29T08:28:24.827" Title="Power steering doesn't turn on until gas pedal is depressed" Tags="|ford|noise|power-steering|fiesta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T14:58:45.023" Score="6" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a transformed car, a Bentley, which no longer has a motorized sunroof. The blind has also gone. However the car diagnostics exhibits a fault on the related, non-present devices and motors. We are using ODIS 5.0.6 to read from the car computer diagnostics but are lacking experience in that field. Is there a way I can remove the options from the car computer without having to keep the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steppers&lt;/a&gt; as dummies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9147" LastEditorDisplayName="user9147" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:55:05.767" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:05:37.123" Title="ODIS 5.0.6 diagnostic tool : how can I remove an option from a transformed vehicle?" Tags="|obd-ii|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T17:28:48.690" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 93 3.1 GM long block engine with 19,633 miles in 2014 from a yard that I found on the internet. The engine was pulled in 1996 and stored by the yard. I did a title search/check to verify this. The engine was installed in 2014 in my 93 Grand Prix to replace the 3.4 and after the install I have a clogged heater core that I didn't have before. After being pulled the engine sat for 17 years.  So my question is would anti-freeze leave behind a residue that would have caused this? And if not could you give me your thoughts on this situation? I flushed and reverse flushed the heater core seven times. That Heater Core was only 5 years old. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9149" LastEditorUserId="9149" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T21:18:03.173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T21:18:03.173" Title="Will anti-Freeze leave behind residue?" Tags="|engine|gm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15075" CreationDate="2015-01-19T18:14:26.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suspicions would lean more towards debris left in the block. Most salvage yards by their nature are not particularly clean. My thoughts would a rodent nest or other debris. Another possibility is not a clog but an air pocket that has settled in the heater core. If you check this site for no heat links you may find some info on determining  how to resolve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T22:02:41.597" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T22:02:41.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T21:36:16.987" Score="1" ViewCount="2695" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Toyota Camry power seat will not move forward more than 1&quot; from the far back position.  When I move the switch to move it forward the seat will move about 1&quot; and stop and it will also move that far to the back. It behaves like it come to the end of the track. I have checked and there are no visible obstructions or damage. Based on the fact that it moves 1&quot; forward and backwards I believe I can rule out the motor and switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9151" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T01:05:17.230" Title="2000 Toyota Camry power seat will not move forward more than 1&quot; from back position." Tags="|toyota|seat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2015-01-19T23:44:23.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just went through a similar problem with my 2009 Prius, which had a dead 12-volt battery. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the &quot;low power error state&quot; you are experiencing is the car's alarm going off. I was not able to open the trunk mechanically, but here's what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Following the instructions in my manual, I opened the driver's door with the spare mechanical key and opened the hood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Began charging the battery with an external battery charger connected to the charging points under the front hood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the horn starts beeping, indicating that the alarm is going off, merely unlock the doors using the internal door-switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you've done this, you can keep charging the 12-volt battery until you have enough power to open the hatch normally (and you can start the ICE).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, you can pick up the rear compartment carpet and (in the 2009) open a hinged compartment on the right-hand side of the trunk to find the 12-volt battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the stock battery with an Optima Yellow Top as per this website's recommendation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://priusdiy.com/tutorials/interior/12vBatteryReplacement.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://priusdiy.com/tutorials/interior/12vBatteryReplacement.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9153" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T23:44:23.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T00:31:47.200" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace rim for one of the wheels of my car (Nissan Altima 06). The wheel specs - 245/45 R18. (Different from the ones that come with the original car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim looks like this - &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5SJB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found similar rims online on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-18-034-Alloy-Wheel-Rim-for-2004-2005-2006-Nissan-Maxima-/280728949429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;, which looked exactly like the one I have; but then I stumbled upon this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tire size calculator&lt;/a&gt;. After playing around with this calculator, now, I'm not sure how important is the rim width, and what width would be appropriate in my case. I'd appreciate any help in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9144" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T17:55:40.470" Title="Which rim to buy" Tags="|tires|nissan|altima|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2015-01-20T03:41:53.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 01 Chevy Tahoe it will start up for about a second, idle up then shutters an then shutt down when given gas. I replace the mass air flow sensor thinking that was the problem but It was not. Then I replace the fuel pump relay did not work again. so I was thinking to sale it by then. But last an not lease the fuel pump fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9155" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T03:41:53.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15084" CreationDate="2015-01-20T08:35:58.320" Score="2" ViewCount="4048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to this forum and this is my first post. I came searching for Honda fit answers and now i am here in the forum seeking for FIT owners help or suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Honda FIT 2011 as a second owner for a reasonable price. First owner have lost the smark key and broken the second smart key as he told me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i only have the Key taken from the remote. That is the one and only i have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a pic of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GT6yZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below part is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hL6Rq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i have only the half part of Remote which is the key.  That is what i am using to lock/unlock the door and to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/ I need to know badly how i can get the remote back. So that i can easily lock and unlock the doors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/ How to have a extra key ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please i would really really appreciate anyone's help or advice on this matter and tell me how much time and cost roughly it would require..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9059" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T09:06:01.697" Title="Honda FIT 2011 Smart Key" Tags="|honda|key|keyless-entry|security|smartkey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15037" CreationDate="2015-01-20T09:03:35.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have a close look at the brake discs. If they've been over heated they may have warped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a bike with warped discs that got worse as you rode it. It wasn't noticeable when cold and when riding at low speed. As the discs heat up they warp more and push the brake pads out. It causes vibration through the brake lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe? No. A motorcycle without brakes isn't safe. But I believe you should be able to test this safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic says he has fixed it then I suggest to test it very carefully. Find somewhere without traffic. Start very slowly and give yourself lots of room to brake. Slowly increase the speed and keep testing the brakes. Try and get some heat into the discs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurs again take it back to the mechanic or try a different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not confident to do this yourself then ask a different mechanic to test it and give you a 2nd opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for tyres to wear unevenly due to the camber of the road. In Belgium it should be the left side of bike from the riders position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tyres are obviously and visibly worn then replacement is a good idea. 5000k's is pretty typical life for tyres so if they were already worn when you bought it then they're probably due to be replaced soon anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if you're not confident that you can test this safely yourself, or have any doubts, don't ride it. Get a qualified and experienced mechanic to check it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risking getting yourself killed to save a few euros isn't very clever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T09:49:03.597" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T09:49:03.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15082" CreationDate="2015-01-20T12:26:30.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.keylessentryremotefob.com/2014/03/2011-honda-fit-key-fob-remote.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no onboard programming procedure for this vehicle. This vehicle requires special equipment be connected to the vehicle to program the keyless remote. Try a locksmith before the dealership, they are usually 50% the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to purchase a replacement key/fob (or two) and then take it somewhere to have it programmed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T12:26:30.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15086" CreationDate="2015-01-20T16:22:01.897" Score="3" ViewCount="11617" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8kzD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about the head indicator on my car. After driving more than 5 minutes it levels out pretty much half way between the 60 and 120 degree mark. My first question is: is the mid point at 90 degrees the optimal temperature for the car to be running at. Or the max temperature where the cooling decides to work harder and bring it down if it goes over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed when it's very cold I put the heating on full heat and max fan, the engine temp takes much longer (15 mins or more) to get to 90, as no doubt I'm leeching heat from the engine into the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that to work optimally catalytic converters need to get hot. By turning the heating to full and so delaying the engine reaching that 90 degrees and I burning fuel less efficiently / cleanly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final question I have in this area is, there is an A/C button that comes on when I turn the heat up before the engine is warm. I have heard that running the AC burns additional fuel (or takes power from the engine that would otherwise go to the wheels). Is this the case for heating, or just for cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6716" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T16:51:24.013" Title="Engine Heat Indicator effects" Tags="|engine|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15085" CreationDate="2015-01-20T16:42:30.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first question is: is the mid point at 90 degrees the optimal temperature for the car to be running at. Or the max temperature where the cooling decides to work harder and bring it down if it goes over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system is designed to run more or less in the middle. Most gasoline cars are around 90-100 degrees Celsius. The thermostat in the cooling system determines when the radiator receives coolant flow and thus when the temperature starts to level off. So, yes, it's pretty much the same thing. But thermostats typically open at 80 degrees or so, the system just levels off a little bit higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun side note: On some cars (early Miata oil pressure gauge comes to mind), they even made the gauges really dumb. If there was oil pressure at all, it told the gauge to go to the middle. Otherwise, you didn't have oil pressure. Apparently they had people coming in to service because the gauge moved too much. Could also just be a rumor. Still, I wouldn't be surprised if temperature gauges were made somewhat dumbed down, but I digress...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed when it's very cold I put the heating on full heat and max fan, the engine temp takes much longer (15 mins or more) to get to 90, as no doubt I'm leeching heat from the engine into the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly. Are you comparing to the starting times when it is cold out but you don't turn on the heat to when you do turn on the heat? Or just when cold out in general? Because the engine's going to take noticeable longer to warm up in the cold regardless. Some HVAC systems also prevent the coolant flowing to the heater core until the engine is at some predetermined temperature, so it may have no effect. But, some don't prevent that so you can 'leech' from the coolant system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why are you blowing cold air at yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that to work optimally catalytic converters need to get hot. By turning the heating to full and so delaying the engine reaching that 90 degrees and I burning fuel less efficiently / cleanly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is cold, yes. This is where manufacturers are currently focusing their emissions cutting efforts. Cold-start emissions are the worst, as the car requires significantly more fuel when cold, in addition to the catalytic converter not being up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also touches on your first question. The warmer the engine, the more efficient it is. I don't know why ~100 C is where most cars (not sure about diesels) sit. I imagine it was pretty much the limit of easily available engine coolant with good 'antboil' properties, among other things (oil temperatures, etc.). That's actually something I'd be interested in learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that running the AC burns additional fuel (or takes power from the engine that would otherwise go to the wheels). Is this the case for heating, or just for cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it does but it's not very significant. The system will be removing moisture no matter what the temperature setting is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1864" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T16:51:24.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15095" CreationDate="2015-01-20T17:25:49.613" Score="1" ViewCount="11464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2014 sonata with nitrogen tires (the tires air port has a green cap on them). I think two tires need a little air. If I put regular air in these is the car gonna blow up? Or should I take the car to the dealer so they can say they're putting nitrogen in it and tell me 100 other things I need to do the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9054" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:50:31.373" Title="Filling nitrogen tires with normal air" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:34:14.527" Score="7" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to disconnect my battery to use a battery tender for the winter? Is there the possibility of damaging the charging system if I leave the cables connected? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9160" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T23:18:53.157" Title="hooking up a battery tender to your car for the winter" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T21:54:58.057" Score="2" ViewCount="3368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Chrysler Concorde LXi 3.5.  Couple months ago I was driving pulled over shut car off and went into store..when I can out and tried to start it it just rapid clicks . I let it sit for 20 mins and started right up. Now this week I drove to get gas. Car has been running great. I shut car off and same problem all over again rapid clicks when I try to start except this time it won't start. I let it sit couple days finally it started so I let it warm up. After 20 mins you could see rpm moving up 1 or 2 lines then dropping so got in and started driving. 10 mins after it died while driving now when I start it same thing rapid clicks but now it won't start at all ... I charged the battery and lights go on and static over the radio. So, I went and got a new battery. All lights and radio work great but still clicks and won't start ... any ideas are really could use the help. I only use the car to pick up my kids on my weekends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9162" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T12:04:26.427" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T12:13:18.120" Title="wont start only rapid clicking 2004 chrysler concorde lxi 3.5L" Tags="|engine|battery|starting|chrysler|concorde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2015-01-20T23:18:53.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you do not need to disconnect the battery from the vehicle before applying a battery tender. Ensure, however, that you disconnect the battery tender from the vehicle before you go to start it. If you don't, some tenders will self destruct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T23:18:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T03:48:13.800" Score="2" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a lock and unlock remote for my key chain from the dealership, as a delivery driver I'm often in and out of my car for mere seconds at a time, and quite often, so to lessen the blow to my car I leave the engine running unless I know I'm going to be more than a few seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some areas I would like to be able to lock my doors while I walk away from it even if its just for a second while it is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership says nothing can be done. Is that really true though? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T09:10:56.117" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T09:15:05.503" Title="2005 Honda Civic LX remote key will not lock doors while car in on, even when the remote is not inside car" Tags="|honda|civic|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15105" CreationDate="2015-01-21T06:41:40.790" Score="4" ViewCount="3641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking specifically about Yezdi (not in production anymore) 250/350cc motorcycles. Yezdi RoadKing was a 250cc single cylinder two stroke with twin exhaust. If upgrading to a calculated chambered exhaust, will it need two chambered exhausts or just one? I was told that for two strokes, only a single exhaust is needed for a single cylinder (should there be multiple cylinders) and that separate exhaust pipes will be required for each cylinders (ie, exhaust gases from more than one cylinder can not go into one exhaust pipe. Hence the number of cylinders and exhaust pipes will be equal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:36:56.507" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:36:56.507" Title="Single Cylinder 2 stroke bike with twin exhaust, will it need two chambered exhausts?" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15087" CreationDate="2015-01-21T09:13:21.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short - No, you can safely top the tires up with regular air. There's absolutely no difference in ride quality and handling between the two under similar pressure. Having said that, filling tires with nitrogen has a few benefits- &#xA;Nitrogen filling systems usually supply moisture free nitrogen gas which results in&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- lesser variation in pressure with tire temperature changes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- lesser chances of corrosion to the valves and rims since both the ingredients required for it are absent- O2 and H20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to consider sticking with nitrogen is that if ever you decide to go back pure nitrogen , you'll need to bleed all the air out and replace it with nitrogen. This will take a few cycles to purge all the air out and may cost you considerably more than just topping it up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't need to take it to your dealer, just look for any fill station or tire shops that have a nitrogen fill station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T05:32:59.620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T05:32:59.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2015-01-21T09:15:05.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can obviously make any mods you like to a car, but they are not likely to be sanctioned by the dealership. Dealers will not want to sell this sort of thing for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will be a security risk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It may invalidate your insurance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is likely to be a custom install&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, technically it's an easy mod - you fit a locking system that is not slaved to the existing immobiliser/alarm system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T09:15:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2015-01-21T11:55:23.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that you have a single cylinder pushing out exhaust into dual pipes, you wouldn't need to worry so much about equalization efforts. By its very nature, the exhaust is going to find the path of least resistance and therefor will flow to which side it can flow through easier until things are equalized. It appears from what I've seen that the Yezdi had the dual exhaust for aesthetic purposes (id: they made it this way to equalize the &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; not to equalize the &lt;em&gt;performance&lt;/em&gt;). If there were two cylinders, this would be of much more importance. I'm not saying you wouldn't get better performance from a better exhaust system. I'm saying equalization is not a huge factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T11:15:48.447" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T11:15:48.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15089" CreationDate="2015-01-21T12:13:18.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is, one or both of your battery leads are not connected properly. You need to do two things when you installed the new battery. Ensure the leads are completely clean of any type of debris or corrosion. Second, ensure they are tight enough to have a proper and secure connection. I believe the Concorde has side posts on the battery. These can be truly problematic where this can easily happen (even to experienced mechanics). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the connections appear good, I'd run to the opposite end of these connections and ensure they are attached properly. This would mean that where the positive lead attaches to the starter is in good stead (no corrosion and tight). Then also, follow the negative side back to it's opposite end and make sure it too is clean and securely fastened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these also seem good, you may want to take your starter in to have it tested. I don't think it would be the starter, but the starter solenoid which is bad in this case. If it could not make the proper connections internally, it could allow the clicking noise you are talking about. I highly doubt this is the case though, as your car would not just &quot;shut off&quot; while driving if so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to check is the alternator. If it is not charging correctly, it would exhibit most (if not all) of these issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it could be two or more of these issues occurring simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T12:13:18.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15100" CreationDate="2015-01-21T12:47:34.083" Score="22" ViewCount="76565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the OBD-II port in vehicles only used for reading diagnostic codes or is there some functionality that allows the vehicle (eg. engine revving) to be controlled through OBD-II?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9169" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T19:52:38.577" Title="Can OBD-II be used to control the vehicle?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15099" CreationDate="2015-01-21T13:33:46.040" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately the answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; you can. To qualify this answer, though, you can only control some things, but not all things, then only on some vehicles. You can do simple things through the port, such as turn the A/C pump on, or any other thing which is controlled by the computer (PCM). As an extension, I'm sure you could rev the engine using the same methods as long as the vehicle has a drive by wire (DBW) setup. In a DBW setup, the computer controls the throttle, so with the right hack it could be accomplished. Anything which is controlled by the computer and is not dependent upon a physical means of input (such as changing the gears in the transmission or steering the vehicle which is directly controlled by the steering wheel -- see note below) should be able to be controlled through this means. Mind you, you'd have to have a complete knowledge of how the computer runs in order to program something like this and many manufacturers are deign to allow this information out (mainly to prevent retuning efforts or engine parameters in the computer). Then too, those who &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; cracked the code on the PCMs aren't to often willing to share this information either ... they don't want to just give away their bread and butter for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Some vehicles will be going to a drive by wire system for the steering in the near future. Yes, this means there is no direct connection between the driver and the wheels. Personally I do not like this as it does not lend to safety (if the system should fail, you have no way to steer the vehicle ... and if you don't have power, no way to steer either). They would also have to design in a feedback circuit, because as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15059/what-is-exactly-steering-feedback&quot;&gt;Bob explains here&lt;/a&gt;, there is something to be said for feedback while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT/UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I was given the link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this WIRED article&lt;/a&gt;. If they can control the vehicle wired/wirelessly through the entertainment system in your vehicle, the vehicle can definitely be controlled as described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2:&lt;/strong&gt; I have also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autosec.org/pubs/cars-usenixsec2011.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; which discusses the security of vehicles. In the article it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most significant automotive interface is the OBD-II port, federally mandated in the U.S., which typically provides direct access to the automobile’s key CAN buses and can provide sufficient access to compromise the full range of automotive systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD-II port can &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; be used to access and control many of a vehicles systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:12:00.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15104" CreationDate="2015-01-21T15:28:30.490" Score="2" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title states, what would be the best way do hide/disguise a cigarette lighter hub (image below since i dont know the correct name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2001 seat ibiza 6k2. A friend of mine put it in the feet area of the passenger (shotgun) next to him. I personally dont like this solution but its a viable one none the less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: What would be viable/praktical locations to place a cigarette lighter hub (and still be able to use it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGM2y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T16:06:29.953" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T16:24:33.727" Title="What is a good way to hide your cigarette lighter hub?" Tags="|interior|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15103" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:24:33.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you're going to be plugging into it - whether you'll be plugging and unplugging stuff regularly, and how long the leads of the things you are using are... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the passenger seat could work, as could inside or underneath the glovebox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my current car, I found that a previous owner had wired one in behind the fusebox cover (above the driver's footwell, under the steering wheel), then had permanently fitted chargers for a mobile phone and satnav to it. I removed that however as I didn't like the idea of permanently live chargers that I couldn't see!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention, a common place is in the passenger footwell, often screwed or stuck to the side of the centre console - this is more visible but the easiest place to get to regularly... Similarly, you could try (depending on the layout of the car) the back of the centre console - but that may well be too far from where you'd want the leads to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T16:24:33.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:36:09.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two stroke engines, by their very nature, require some of the 'plumbing' you note in your question.  Specifically the expansion chamber.  Unlike 4-stroke engines, two-stroke engines require the expansion chamber and stinger (reduced diameter over distance) at the end of pipe.  The energy in the exhaust wave expands and wave front slows in the expansion chamber and then accelerates as the diameter decreases to the stinger and bounces back toward the front of the pipe to stuff escaping hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) back into the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Jawa engine is probably installed in your Yezdi Roadking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the weird part.  You have two exhaust ports, if I am correct, coming off the head.  You could custom build a pipe with expansion chambers that join together, perhaps.  Seems a bit painful.  There are aftermarket pipes that are properly calculated and join into a single expansion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For aesthetics, performance and ease of procurement I would go with two new and independent systems with calculated expansion chambers.  They won't 'conflict' with one another and would IMHO look much better than a bastardized expansion chamber thing, which in my mind would be created by trying to combine into a single pipe with expansion chambers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T16:36:09.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14992" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:56:02.473" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An air screw on a Keihin PWL26 only effects the idle circuit of the carburetor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idle circuit pulls through the pilot jet exclusively.  The pilot jet typically can deliver no more than 15% of the overall fuel when the throttle is wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claim of 15% is based upon the inside diameter of the pilot jet and the inside diameter of the main jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air screw, as you probably know, will effect mixture at idle primarily.  If you are having rich conditions higher up or off idle then you need to take a look at your needle and main jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 on the diagram below is your tapered needle, it sits in the throttle valve(#2) or slide, depending on who you talk to.  The jet needle is known to primarily effect mid range mixture while the main jet on wide open effects mixture under those circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are clips on older models where you can raise or lower the tapered needle.  Raising the tapered needle allows for more fuel to enter the venturi and lowering it removes fuel making the mixture leaner.  The needle is moving up and down in the atomizer inside the venturi, at the bottom of the atomizer is the main jet.  Unless you've done a lot of mods to the bike up to and including a high performance pipe, you should not have to change the main jet.  You can just raise and lower the tapered needle until you achieve the proper level of lean and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a diagram of your carb, but this is close enough for the discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Diagram of a De'Lorto Carb&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiE9Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - air intake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - throttle valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - tapered needle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - atomizer and needle jet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 - main jet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 - starting device&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 - venturi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 - idle speed adjusting-screw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 - idle mixture adjusting-screw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 - starter jet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 -idle jet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 - float chamber vent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 - fuel inlet banjo union&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 - needle valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 -float&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16- float chamber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:33:49.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14736" CreationDate="2015-01-21T17:07:03.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1998 XL650 has a fuel petcock that has a safety feature on it, as do many other bikes of the gravity feed carb era from about 1980 to present.  Since you are running an XR650 you should not have the vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a vacuum line that runs from the manifold side of the carb to the petcock on the XL650.  When the engine is turned over and creates vacuum in the line a diaphragm is opened in the petcock allowing fuel to flow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bring all this up because I was a Honda mechanic for years.  What I saw over and over were replaced petcocks with XL style rather than proper replacement.  I would have commented but my reputation is too low as I am new and cannot comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there is a fuel filter that is integrated into the petcock and sitting in the gastank.  Ensure this filter is clear of debris by unscrewing the two screws that hold the petcock in the gastank.  There is a rubber o-ring that ensures a tight seal that may disintegrate upon removal of the petcock.  Hope this helpful and not just more noise.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T17:07:03.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12859" CreationDate="2015-01-21T17:27:09.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Honda Shine does not have a high amperage output stator like a larger motorcycle, think goldwing.  As Paulster2 so aptly put, less resistance in the wire the more amperage or 'flow' you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking that into consideration.  If you can increase the gauge of wire feeding your headlights you could go with your option number 2, which is to put a 60/55 halogen into which is plenty bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not put a HID kit into your bike, it will tax the charging system and battery and possible even lead to rectifier failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T17:27:09.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15110" CreationDate="2015-01-21T17:35:55.697" Score="2" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I changed my oil last I was just above the Full mark, 5000km later I'm at the Low mark.  I won't have time to change the oil until next week so I topped it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do you know how much to top up?  what is the actual volume difference between L and F?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is vehicle specific it is a 2008 WRX using Motul 8100 5w-30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T18:03:51.497" Title="How many ml between L and F (Oil)" Tags="|maintenance|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15109" CreationDate="2015-01-21T18:03:51.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;very definitely vehicle specific&lt;/strong&gt;. Every manufacturer is going to or can do it differently, and they do. Think of how many liters your Subie holds for a fresh oil change and for that in a semi-truck. We are talking the difference of quarts to gallons in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, this is basically a trial and error way to do business. You put an &quot;amount&quot; into the crankcase and check the dipstick for the level. If too low, add a bit more. You ultimately get used to how much is needed in your specific vehicle by your past experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were a guessing man, I'd probably put the difference between the high/low marks at ~1/2 liter (or quart ... depending on your local) in most non-commercial vehicles. That is what experience has shown me, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T18:03:51.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12089" CreationDate="2015-01-21T19:04:45.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few possibilities, especially with the smaller Suzuki shift drums such as yours as well as the innate way in which constant mesh transmissions work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The detente at the end of the pawl lifter on the cam driven gear that the shifting shaft acts upon could be getting stuck as it's old and worn out.  The pin costs $2.95 and is worth replacing.  As well, the spring that provides force against the gear shifting cam could be worn is also only $2.95&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The clutch could be dragging just a bit making it difficult to shift into neutral.  This is very common.  Ensure your clutch is adjusted properly by taking up the slack and giving the lever about 2-3mm of play when the handlebars are turned all the way to the left and right which changes play in the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is turned off and it is difficult to get it into neutral, push the bike forward and backward which will rotate the secondary shaft in the transmission and allow the dogs and slots on the shafts to line up in order to get into or out of a gear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cam on the shift drum could be worn rather than the pawl.  Inspect the cam for a detente that the pawl has created where it might get stuck on the cam driven gear.  There's a screenshot below so if the terms I used are alien you have a reference.  As well, a link to the OEM parts site.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3b32df870021958f26081/gear-shifting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OEM Parts Explosion Diagrams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ED7gT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T23:59:59.203" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T23:59:59.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13481" CreationDate="2015-01-22T02:07:16.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter solenoid on that engine (I have the same car) is inside the starter motor, which is a pain to get to (on the back of the engine.) As it gets old, arcing between contacts erodes the copper material until the contacts begin working intermittently. There is no way to buy or replace th solenoid or solenoid kit (unless you can find a scrap one) without buying a whole starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9175" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T02:07:16.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T02:16:39.540" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hearing a clunking/banging noise from the front of my car when i steer left or right whilst stationary. Any ideas of what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9176" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T02:16:39.540" Title="loud clunking/banging noise coming from the front of my car" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:44:50.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2015-01-22T03:01:45.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a heavy equipment business. Sometimes starting the machine for a minute or two to heat up the head slightly will assist in freeing up a stuck bolt or stud.  Turn machine off then quickly attempt to remove bolt before heat transfers to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9177" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T20:15:44.143" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T20:15:44.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T06:00:12.470" Score="2" ViewCount="2576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed all the oils in my land cruiser BJ40, including the rear differential which has a limited slip dif with apparently something called a power trax traction system. I put in normal gear oil 80W-90 GL5. (not LSD oil) Is it a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T08:38:34.777" Title="Non LSD oil in a LSD" Tags="|oil|differential|lsd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15117" CreationDate="2015-01-22T08:44:24.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be apparent right away but may cause issues later on. The Limited Slip  Differential contains clutches. They require oil with an additive that allows the clutches to operate correctly. Check the container that the oil came in, it should say Limited Slip/ Posi-trac compatible. It may be in small print on the back of the bottle. If it doesn't, you could purchase a small container of the additive separately and add it the differential. It may cost almost as much as the oil that contains the additive, but it beats draining and refilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T08:38:34.777" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T08:38:34.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T12:51:59.317" Score="5" ViewCount="10547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3.0 litre V6 Diesel Jaguar XJ which has a 850amp battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fair number of people on this 400amp Amazon jump starter say it started their 3.0 litre cars fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/PORTABLE-STARTER-COMPRESSOR-BATTERY-BOOSTER/dp/B00IDCMLFE/ref=zg_bs_4923209031_9&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/PORTABLE-STARTER-COMPRESSOR-BATTERY-BOOSTER/dp/B00IDCMLFE/ref=zg_bs_4923209031_9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can something with half the amperage still crank the engine? If its 12v x 400amp surely its a lower wattage/energy output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I read some jump starters can damage your electrical components, but surely if its a low amperage than your battery, its not going to surge it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T20:07:37.517" Title="Does a jump starter with lower amperage than your car battery work?" Tags="|battery|starter|jump-start|jaguar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="48481" CreationDate="2015-01-22T12:59:06.847" Score="32" ViewCount="559664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new battery in my car about 8 months ago.  After a problem starting a couple days ago, I found that there was massive corrosion under the battery terminals, so I cleaned them out and reconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had this problem with this car (which I've owned over 10 years) with any previous battery (nor in any other car ever).  My use case hasn't changed any.  The battery is showing good charge.  The charging system is operating properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I change to avoid a recurrence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:18:29.010" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T18:19:51.973" Title="What causes battery terminal corrosion?" Tags="|electrical|battery|wiring|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2015-01-22T13:56:54.657" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corrosion on the terminals is due to hydrogen gas being released from the acid in the battery. It mixes with other things in the atmosphere under the hood and produces the corrosion you see on the terminals. Generally, if the corrosion is occurring on the negative terminal, your system is probably undercharging. If on the positive side, it is probably overcharging. Most often it will be seen on the negative side because the battery is usually in an undercharged situation. This is just the nature of the beast, I'm afraid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to thoroughly clean the corrosion from off the posts. You can use baking soda and water solution to help in this endeavor. Ensure you have eye protection, clothes which you don't care if it possibly gets ruined (acid can do nasty things), and some type of gloves (nitrile gloves work great). Clean the area using the solution and a brush. It doesn't have to be a steel bristle one, just one which is stiff enough to remove the gunk. You will have to remove the battery cables to get them completely clean (sorry about the radio channel presets!). Finish your clean up with a good dose of water to flush the area of any residual corrosion. If you don't, it can eat away the paint in the nearby areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done cleaning, to help slow down the corrosion process, coat the terminals with grease (high pressure grease or wheel bearing grease works as good as anything). It doesn't have to be a lot, but ensure total coverage of the metal at the terminals. Cover the outside of the terminals &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you have put the cables back onto your battery. You can also purchase a aerosol spray coating which you can purchase from your local parts store. Your main objective is to keep the lead, escaped hydrogen gas, and oxygen from mixing which forms the corrosion you see after a period of time. Over time the grease will break down and corrosion may start, so regular cleaning and reapplication is a must. If you do this about every six months, you should be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T13:56:54.657" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15119" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:39:02.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cranking amps required to start an engine are not the same as the cranking amp rating of a battery. I don't know the amps required to start your car's engine, but if it is less than 400 amps, then it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher cranking amps in a battery yields additional benefits. The battery can be used for more starts because less capacity is used on each start. The battery can be used for starting in colder temperatures because the reduced capacity caused by the cold weather leaves enough left over to still crank the engine. Since these things are probably not required for the jumpstarter, the manufacturer may choose to use a smaller battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the car's battery is expected to power loads without an alternator, so it is performing more duties than just cranking the engine. Since battery cranking amps and capacity are directly proportional in a lead acid battery, the higher capacity may be for powering other loads, giving it a higher cranking amp rating as a benefit. Since the jumpstarter is a single purpose device, the battery does not need to have such a high capacity, thus only needs to produce enough cranking amps to start a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That jumpstarter is rated at 12 VDC, which I assume is the same as your car's battery. It's possible that if someone connects the leads in reverse, they may damage their vehicle's electrical system. However, the same would be true when using jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T15:39:02.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15050" CreationDate="2015-01-22T16:55:55.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most obvious answer is heat-related expansion and contraction.  Back in the day of full service gas stations, it was standard practice to check the oil when filling the gas (and I still do that at self-service stations).  The best practice is to check the oil as the last thing you do at a fuel stop, giving the oil time to drip down into the bottom of the crankcase but not allowing it time to contract from cooling (a few hours later, as you indicate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9181" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T16:55:55.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15119" CreationDate="2015-01-22T17:23:20.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea isn't to replace the amperage of the battery, but to &lt;em&gt;boost&lt;/em&gt; (add to) what charge is available from your battery. The lower amperage output is fairly typical. For this reason and for the simple reason that these devices are made to be portable. If it had the same amperage as the battery in your car, it would weight about the same amount. Since your vehicle has a diesel fueled engine, it will require more amperage from the start (due to higher starter need and glow plug requirements). 400 amps may not meet that requirement. If what the amperage of the battery in your vehicle plus the amperage of the jumper box is not sufficient to meet that need, it won't be able to start your vehicle (that may be fairly obvious at this point). The description on the Amazon page says that it will &quot;start any vehicle ...&quot;. If you take them at their word, you should be golden. Unfortunately that's one of the risks you take when purchasing anything, whether online or not, if it's going to work. Thank goodness for the Amazon return policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T17:23:20.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15128" CreationDate="2015-01-22T19:49:41.457" Score="10" ViewCount="125314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried to jump start a friend's car. When I connected the jumper cables, there were a lot of sparks. They were connected for nearly 30 seconds and I noticed a lot of heat and smoke coming from both batteries. I immediately disconnected and didn't try again. I didn't even start the car with the good battery. Why was this, and what can I do to avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:27:12.980" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T10:25:48.760" Title="Lots of sparks and heat when jump starting a car" Tags="|electrical|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15140" CreationDate="2015-01-22T21:09:33.590" Score="4" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took off the tail light on our 2000 Toyota Sienna and the clips on the light assembly side broke off as I was pulling it off. Any idea where I can get replacement clips? Or would I have to replace the whole assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9182" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T00:55:32.307" Title="2000 Toyota Sienna Rear Blinker Assembly Clips Broke Off" Tags="|toyota|sienna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15126" CreationDate="2015-01-22T21:25:44.490" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the description you give, I'd say you connected them backwards with about a 99%+ assurance. Large amounts of sparks followed by heat are both &lt;em&gt;VERY BAD SIGNS&lt;/em&gt; (as you soon figured out) and almost always mean you have the jumpers on backwards. Never trust what the covers on the battery says. &lt;strong&gt;Check what the battery says to be sure.&lt;/strong&gt; If there is no way to see what is on the battery (the terminals cover them), follow the cables back to their source. The negative will go to a ground and the positive will go to the starter and to the alternator. If those are correct, ensure that the jumper cables are correctly aligned. Some sets I've seen will have black shielding on both with a thin yellow (or some other color) stripe up them. It would be very easy to mix these up. If you still think it was right, you could ultimately check each side of the jumper cables for continuity to ensure you are matching them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T21:25:44.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T22:01:40.117" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, and I live in Syracuse NY, where the winters are pretty cold. When I start it in the morning when it's cold out, the serpentine belt and tensioner need to be replaced, so they squeak, but the battery light comes on and it doesn't go off unless I shut off the car. I know the Cherokees are known for having electrical problems but I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9185" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:52:08.423" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:52:08.423" Title="2000 Jeep Cherokee 2WD battery light comes on" Tags="|battery|jeep|lights|cherokee|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T02:58:37.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a detailed DIY for the Honda / Acura V6 J Series Engine for replacing the timing belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TMR9PG3fko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TMR9PG3fko&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9189" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T02:58:37.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T04:46:11.567" Score="2" ViewCount="10058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a four pack of Sprayway glass cleaner at Costco today, and it's amazing.  I tried it out on my car, and it makes it so shinny, it looks like it has just been waxed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to make sure that this isn't bad for my paint in any way.  I'm sure there's some solvents in this cleaner that make it clean so well, so are they bad for my paint/clear coat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had experience with this cleaner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sVwZq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T02:35:06.507" Title="Using Sprayway glass cleaner as waterless wash?" Tags="|paint|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15133" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-23T06:25:43.330" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T06:25:43.330" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T06:25:43.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-23T06:25:43.330" Score="0" Body="A planetary gear train which sits between the engine and driven wheels to allow them (driven wheels) to spin at different relative speeds with each other to account for varying paths taken (varying surface, turning etc.)" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T11:22:20.933" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T11:22:20.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15136" CreationDate="2015-01-23T09:01:47.790" Score="3" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of buying a performance air filter for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEAT_Ibiza#Second_generation_.28Typ_6K.3B_1993.E2.80.932002.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001 SEAT Ibiza&lt;/a&gt; (6K2). The reason I'm considering this is because my stock filter needs replacing and I figured I might as well do it right the first time. Now since the stock filter sits on top of the engine I need a new place to stick my performance filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some pictures on the Internet of people having performance air filters, but none seem to explain why they placed it in the place that they did. What are the criteria I should keep in mind when picking a location for my filter? Obviously, you don't want it near the exhaust pipes or anything else that doesn't have good ventilation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an image online of a filter that seems to be surrounded by heat shields. Why would one want to be doing this? Doesn't this cause worse air flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSIEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:30:43.453" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:30:43.453" Title="How do I know where to place my air filter?" Tags="|air-filter|cooling|seat-ibiza|seat-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15135" CreationDate="2015-01-23T10:02:03.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to be getting as much cold air as possible, as colder air is denser and thus gives your engine more oxygen for a given volume (and thus more power/better efficiency) - that's why the filter in the picture is surrounded be shields, to prevent it drawing in warm air from the engine bay - I'd assume that area in front that filter is open to atmosphere (e.g. through the car's grille)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that basis, you want it as far from the hot things as possible - forward and low is usually best in most small car engine bays - but beware of going too low, as you don't want to ingest water if you go through a deep puddle, so make sure it is somewhere protected from splashes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T10:02:03.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15131" CreationDate="2015-01-23T12:16:30.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem with using a cleaner like this is, while it removes all of the dirt and debris from the paint, it also removes any protection the paint might have on it, leaving it exposed to the elements and to UV rays which can cause faiding, oxidization, cracking, and pealing. Remember, glass is very resilliant stuff. It can withstand harsh chemicals (if needed). Glass cleaners in general will remove pretty much everything off of the surface of the glass, with any excess evaporating leaving the surface pristine. Your paint is not nearly as tough. Yes, it will clean it and leave it sparkling, but you are also taking any kind of protection it might have away. This will leave it open to the elements which will make it show its age much more quickly. You will do you car finish a much larger favor by cleaning it via normal means, then throwing some carnuba wax on top of it to provide it protection. This way the sparkle will not go away anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T12:16:30.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14921" CreationDate="2015-01-23T16:11:17.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three phases of a charging system.  The charging system frequently will create AC current and diodes within the alternator will act as a rectifier and convert the AC current to DC where it can be stored in a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Here is a diagram&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90FQw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one or more of the diodes fails in the alternator you begin to see the pulse of the charging in your lights.  It's especially apparent when two legs of the three legged system are down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;This is what the waveform looks like&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMwPN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top wave is AC the lower wave is DC.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you you take wave 2 and 3 out and only have the signal from number 1 then you can begin to see why you have the pulsing affect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it does it when you get on the gas is that your rpm's increase and the transmission and the engine engage, when you get off the gas most automatic transmission cars drop their rpm's and disengage from the transmission.  Hence the pulsing while on the gas.  Hope this helps, good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T20:21:35.750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T20:21:35.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2015-01-23T17:40:49.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering your comments, my suggestion to you is to replace the assembly. If you still have the pins, you could possible repair the assemply by using some (possibly) super glue or maybe even some epoxy. This approach, while cheaper, will never be as strong as new, as well as it may not align correctly once completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cost saving approach in lieu of purchasing a new assembly, you could alternatively try a wrecking yard or even look for part-outs on Craigslist. This may save you a few dollars in the end. These assemblies new from the dealership (affectionately called a &quot;stealership&quot;) can be extremely pricey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:40:49.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:37:57.007" Score="4" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two, not one, battery cables on the positive-side of my Pontiac Vibe's battery. One of the cables is considerably thicker than the other. I'm not sure what function that smaller cable has, but in any case, it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some corrosion and an emergency stop, I had to clip the two cables and used a new clamp. But it's a patch job. Now the cables are too short and the lead is sitting at a slant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace the two (positive-side) cables, but they are wrapped with other cables eight or so inches after leaving the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely unravel that wrapping and replace just the two (positive-side) battery cables, or do I have to replace the entire set of cables as a unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T20:50:57.233" Title="Unwrapping and replacing two positive-side battery cables" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15141" CreationDate="2015-01-23T19:37:00.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the Vibe specifically, but you could always unwrap those cables and see how easily the two defective cables can be replaced.  I'm guessing you'll be able to replace just those two cables, not the whole harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T19:37:00.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15141" CreationDate="2015-01-23T20:50:57.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I can't say for sure about your Vibe, many systems use two cables. One cable goes directly to the starter solenoid. The second wire powers everything else via a power distribution block. After you remove the wrapping, remove the cables and measure them for length. It may help to bring them with you to the parts supplier to match them up as far as length and connector type. Install the cables and rewrap them into the harness in the same location as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T20:50:57.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12875" CreationDate="2015-01-23T22:37:53.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;If my memory serves me properly that's an old 'flat head' briggs motor.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your float.  There is a tab on the floats.  When you remove the carburetor float bowl set the floats to set parallel to the edge of the float bowl mating surface of the carb.  This is common with new carbs oddly enough, I think briggs calls it a tang.  It's metal and the floats should be plastic.  Bend the metal to adjust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is old, so your gaskets are probably shot.  If you don't have new ones, use some RTV on either side between the carb and the engine.  If you have any air leaks it will run lean and you will be turning out your mainjet, when it gets hot, it won't run, you will choke it to get it richer and start blowing black smoke.  When it dies the built up fuel from the choke will run out of the cracks in the gasket and make you think you have a fuel leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the primer bulb.  IF it has cracks, replace it.  You could have a leak from that but I doubt it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I truly believe this a float issue and an air leak on the gasket between the motor and the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:25:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T01:43:38.303" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today the battery gauge stopped working and the needle rests just before the 0. The car itself cranks, starts, and sounds like it always has. However, there used to be this intermittent buzzing noise from time to time and my battery gauge needle did &quot;jump&quot; whenever I used my turn signals. Obviously these two things have stopped now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9199" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:02:33.137" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:02:33.137" Title="Why has my battery gauge on my '94 Ford Thunderbird stopped working?" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|gauges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15150" CreationDate="2015-01-24T11:32:32.503" Score="1" ViewCount="5285" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thermostat  gasket is leaking on my 00 Ford ka. Is there I sealant I can put around it as a temporary  fix for a week or two before I can get it fixed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T15:32:47.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T17:46:40.807" Title="how to temporarily fix a gasket leak?" Tags="|ford|coolant|thermostat|water-leak|ka|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15149" CreationDate="2015-01-24T17:46:40.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to put sealant around the outside of the housing to get it to stop leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could possibly put a sealant within the coolant system, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/36D347_AS01.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bar's Radiator Stop Leak&lt;/a&gt;, which may or may not solve your leak issue temporarily (may solve it permanently, but I never trust it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your better bet is to just replace the gasket. This is a relatively easy procedure which can be accomplished with basic hand tools. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/Zz4bOcOLHTQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/pN5QzW9HErs?list=PL5B4E2C5024C4C9AF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part 2&lt;/a&gt; videos on the procedure, which are pretty decently done. For a basic run down on how to do this, here are the basic steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain your coolant system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the two clamps from the hoses on the housing. Slide them down the hose away from the housing as an easy way to keep track of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the two hoses from the housing. Inspect the hoses for obvious damage or wear. Replace if you find cracks or deterioration on the inside of the hoses at the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the two bolts holding the housing. Clean these bolts thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the housing and the head at the mating surface. This area needs to be clean and free of debris. Be careful not to lay deep scratches in either part as this will impair the sealing ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a new thermostat (see note below). The spring portion of the thermostat should be pointing down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a new thermostat housing gasket. (Note: You can use some gasket sealant here to help in the sealing process, if desired.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some anti-seize onto the bolts, then install the bolts until they are just snug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the two hoses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the two hose clamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the two bolts down about another 1/4 turn (I do not have a torque spec on these two bolts, but they do not need a large amount of torque to seal things back up). Do not over tighten these as you can crack the housing or strip the threads out of the head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refill your coolant system with radiator fluid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the engine up to temperature looking for any signs of leakage. If you detect any leaks, shut the engine down right away, then find/fix the leak.'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the expansion tank with coolant as needed to keep it up between the min/max lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Since you are installing a new gasket, now is the time to replace the thermostat as well. When you get the new thermostat, the gasket will come with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T17:46:40.807" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5556" CreationDate="2015-01-24T18:44:32.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a mechanic with many years of experience there are only a couple of ways engine oil can enter the coolant system &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone added oil to the coolant overflow tank or radiator. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A crack in between an oil gallery and a coolant passage either in the engine block or the cylinder head(s).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be some other reasons but it has been my experience that if you have oil in the water you have a serious problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9205" LastEditorUserId="7763" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T19:33:54.487" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T19:33:54.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15155" CreationDate="2015-01-24T22:51:16.653" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that normally when replacing front tires new ones go on the back and the old back ones are moved to the front, as the better tread should go on the back for more stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My front ones need changing but they are a different width to the back ones so they can't just be switched. So the front ones are going to have more tread. Could this affect stability? Or does the fact that the back ones are wider offset this and make them stabler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6328" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T14:12:42.690" Title="Replacing new tires on front because rear ones are a different size" Tags="|tires|stability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5246" CreationDate="2015-01-24T23:30:56.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;agreed that this seems like a fuel problem. the easiest and most important things to check are the two fuel filters, one big, one small - replace them. it's also possible to have a clog in the strainer back at the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T23:30:56.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15198" CreationDate="2015-01-25T03:02:34.540" Score="4" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an OBDII scanner that allows me to read and log data using my tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the most out of this device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am already familiar with simply reading the trouble codes to learn about problems. I know that having a trouble code plus additional data points can help me quickly triage a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a vague emissions code could be something as simple as a vacuum leak or as rough as a bad catalytic converter. Can an advanced device that logs values help triage broad trouble codes through records of other data and details?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What data points should I just log by default to capture the most problems? Should I be capturing everything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2677" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T13:47:09.467" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:55:15.950" Title="How do I get the most out of a &quot;smart&quot; OBDII scanner?" Tags="|troubleshooting|obd-ii|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15152" CreationDate="2015-01-25T14:12:42.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car came from factory with the tires offset, you are going to want to change out the worn out tires with a like size and not rotate the tires out. While what you said about moving the tires are is a normal process, you won't do it with tires that are offset. If you were to change this out with having the wider tires on the front and the skinnier tires on the back, I don't think you'd have stability issues, but it is going to feel wierd (different wierd). Other considerations of doing this is that you'd more than likely have different rim offsets to accomodate the different size tires. The rear wheels probably will not fit on the front end of the car, as well as not being able to fit the tires in the first place (rear wheels may be too wide to support the front tires and rear tires may be too wide to fit on the front wheels and have the support they need). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, replace the tires you need keeping them on the axle they now reside. Any decent tire shop is going to know this and not try to swap them out as is the norm. If they do suggest you do this, I'd highly suggest you find another tire shop. Giving you another situation of the same, consider a Corvette which has offset tires (18&quot; front/19&quot; rear). As an owner, you'd not allow them to swap out these tires. Your car is no different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T14:12:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T15:36:48.633" Score="5" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently sold a power steering flush on a 2010 Civic with 60k miles. Cost: $150. They said the fluid was 'filthy'. I've since read that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P/S fluid should last much longer than this,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it was in fact 'filthy', there is likely something more serious wrong with the seals or other components, which I doubt because the steering works fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I feel scammed. Was I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9210" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T23:28:22.997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:36:04.433" Title="Is a power steering flush likely to be necessary at 60k miles?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T19:21:53.190" Score="3" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my Ford Fiesta Classic diesel engine car, I lose all the acceleration.&#xA;The RPM meter gets stuck on 2 and all other readings were reset automatically in the speedometer? What could be the problem? Could there be a problem with the MAF sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9214" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:04:06.640" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:04:06.640" Title="Electrical problem with Ford Fiesta diesel" Tags="|electrical|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15156" CreationDate="2015-01-25T23:03:34.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not knowing the exact state of the power steering fluid in the first place, I would be hard pressed to tell you it was a scam. I'm sure they performed the service for which you paid, so at least that portion of it is not a scam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, you and everyone else should know, this is a typical way that places like Jiffy Lube (or other quick oil change places) do business. It's not that they tell the technicians to go out and scam the customer, but it happens because of how they setup the payment schedule for the technicians. This applies somewhat to service at dealerships as well. What happens is, if a technician (or mechanic at a dealership) spots a problem while performing the work you've asked them to do, they will bring it up to the service manager. The service manager brings it up to you. If you agree to do the extra service, the technician will get paid a higher percentage of this service as it is considered an &quot;add-on&quot; service. Because of this, they are always looking for ways to increase what they get paid, so may &quot;sometimes&quot; suggest services which you really &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; need. If they can get you to buy it, though, they will get paid the higher amount. Service departments don't really monitor this too much as their gross income will be higher in the process, meaning they show a better bottom line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in the future you get this sort of suggestion to have a service done, go and get a second opinion, especially with a technician/mechanic you trust. This is the surest way to get only the services you need, without paying exorbitant amounts of money in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T23:03:34.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2015-01-25T23:20:10.833" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;absolutely DO NOT replace a BALLAST with a RELAY.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They perform different functions completely and are in no way related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Relay = Switch&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ballast = Current Regulation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solid state relay may have some voltage limitation attributes but you need to be sure that it matches the ballast that will be provided with your HID kit.  I HIGHLY recommend you use those.  If you want to switch the circuit with a relay, great, do it...the point is that the two devices (relay and ballast) are mutually exclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line of your question made me concerned.&#xA;&amp;quot;The HID kits I've seen come with ballasts, but I thought I would be safer with relays (?).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding grounding.  Do your best to tie into your common ground rather than going straight to your battery.  If you want to use 'earth' ground on the bike, that would be better than making the commoner mistake of a bunch of bad wiring to the battery which I've seen to many times in my life.  Every time someone grounds an aftermarket electrical device to their battery 5 kittens die.  Don't be a kitten killer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the dramatic bold and using the answer as a way of sending the message but I wanted to be absolutely sure you saw this.  If I've misunderstood, apologies in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:56:09.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15166" CreationDate="2015-01-26T06:11:19.797" Score="8" ViewCount="25334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just noticed that my brakes started squealing non stop even though the pads are fairly new (8 months with just 7,000 km on it). Also I have just noticed last night that one of the brakes is grinding onto my rotor(kinda feels that way), and that it makes this very bad low grinding noise. What seems to be the problem for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be at least informed before I bring this to the mechanic as I need to be at least prepared(financially) before I bring it there, or otherwise it might get stuck at the garage for a long time. I am currently not using the car as I plan to have it fixed as soon as I have the resources to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 1995 toyota corolla with 130000 km. Only pads have been replaced in the brake components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T04:58:30.990" Title="brake squeal and grinding rotor even if I had just installed new pads" Tags="|toyota|brakes|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15164" CreationDate="2015-01-26T10:31:19.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tell which wheel(s) the noise is coming from? If you can, jack the car up and support it on stands, then remove the wheel(s) in question, and visually inspect the pads and discs, including the back of the disc between it and the stone-shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be as simple as a stone stuck in the brakes, or you might find that one of the calipers has been binding, and has worn away the pad prematurely - if so, you'll see one (or more) pads that are worn significantly more than the rest, and potentially worn unevenly too (e.g. worn a lot at the top and hardly at all at the bottom, or vice versa). If that is the case, you'll need to get the caliper un-stuck (exact procedure depends on which bit is stuck...), and replace all four pads on that axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T10:31:19.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15164" CreationDate="2015-01-26T11:19:58.353" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You stated that &quot;&lt;em&gt;Only pads have been replaced in the brake components.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; If the rotors were not turned (machined) or replaced at the same time, this could be a problem. The surface of the rotor needs to be fresh, or the brakes will not work up to expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consideration must be given to the proper &quot;bedding&quot; of the brakes. If they were not bedded properly, any one of the four pads could be worn down to nothing already causing the noise/issue you are talking about. (For proper bedding technique, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11244/is-it-normal-for-stop-distance-to-be-long-on-brand-new-brake-pads/11245#11245&quot;&gt;read this thread&lt;/a&gt; ... pay attention to the links). Not bedding the brakes correctly can cause premature wear of the brake pads, or even pulsing which may feel like a warped rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is to see if a dust shield hasn't been bent for some reason and is now rubbing on the rotor. In this case, it could sound an awful lot like the &quot;squealer&quot; sounds when it starts rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to contemplate is you might have a bad wheel bearing, which could cause the hub to lean over slightly, causing issues like you are describing. This could happen, but is really an outside possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T11:19:58.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T11:53:32.587" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting an immobilizer on the ignition circuitry.  Worst case scenarios, if the immobilizer, (normally closed relay), broke what would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the car continue as normal and then not start up or would in cut out while driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T11:53:32.587" Title="Ignition wire breaks while driving" Tags="|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:30:01.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:23:02.403" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;It started yesterday when I started to do above 60 mps, it wont go past 60 but if you paddle gas more, it will vibrate, but wont go beyond 60. When applying brake it will push to go forward, like dont want to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9221" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:19:31.387" Title="MB ML 320 wont go past 60 mps and vibrates" Tags="|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:36:43.127" Score="3" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2006 Ford Expedition.  I had noticed about 6 months ago that every once in a while it would rumble or shake when I was going 45-55 mph and with my foot only lightly on accelerator.  Now it happens a lot (not all the time) when I have light pressure on the accelerator and pretty much any speed over 40 mph.  Note that if I floor the car or have heavy pressure on the accelerator it runs great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought this was a first sign of transmission failing but it doesn't spin and during my last inspection the shop ran diags and there were ZERO errors from the transmission.  Again I have had 5 cars have their transmission go out and I can tell almost instantly what is going on.  This never &quot;spins&quot; or loses contact.  And now that this happens every once in a while past the last gear I think I have ruled it out.  What do you think the cause is?  (Mechanic takes it for drive and says it runs perfect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9224" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T20:35:23.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T23:33:53.523" Title="Why does car rumble/shake with light pressure on accelerator?" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|noise|shaking|expedition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T23:02:42.210" Score="2" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Lexus GX470.  I am having this problem where as I accelerate, my RPM goes up to like 5/6 and my speed is not going up.  If I back off the pedal and try again it sometimes will accelerate.  It doesn't happen every time I accelerate, but has all of a sudden started happening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9227" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T19:01:14.443" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:01:14.443" Title="2004 LEXUS GX470" Tags="|automatic-transmission|rpm|lexus|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T05:52:51.163" Score="2" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chevy that has a loss of power and stalling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a week ago I drove it and it would spin the tires over, but the next day it wouldn't. it could be bad gas the truck was in the shop for about 6months getting the tranny fixed and I put gas from a gas can in their that could of been sitting outside &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time it will crank on the second try, and will idle fine not sure on rpms gonna get a tachometer thursday I think it is idling a little high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to change the fuel filter tomorrow or the next day but I don't think its been changed in awhile because the bolts on it are pretty rusty. I've replaced wires/plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE1 1/27: I drove it to the store this morning got some gas, ran fine. Got home and (3-5 minute drive) let it sit for a sec cranked it up to check some stuff out and it was idling very rough (if I didn't give it gas it would die). So I checked both fuel injectors one is spraying fully and one just wasn't spraying. I took out the Injector fuse and ecm fuse put them back in then checked again and both were spraying, also did a little tapping on the injector that wasn't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE2 1/27:This evening I drove it to town and work which is probably in total about 20 miles most of the time is seemed fine but I noticed the first time I got down on it the CEL came on. Gonna try to check the codes myself tomorrow. It would spin the tires over but still seemed to have a lack of acceleration. So my question is what could be causing my injector to randomly not work? This is the first time i've actually seen it not spraying because its the first time i looked while the sputtering/dying without giving it  gas was happening I will see if it does it tomorrow and update if it does. going to change the fuel filter tomorrow and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9230" LastEditorUserId="9233" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T11:08:18.647" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:08:18.647" Title="1988 chevy k1500 350" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13318" CreationDate="2015-01-27T08:35:54.560" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alternator has a grounding cable connected to the frame of the car. If it is disconnected or has a corroded or loose connector, the alternator will not charge the battery. You can test this by connecting a temporary ground wire from one of the alternator mounting bolts to a good metal grounding point away from any moving parts. If the battery charges, you've found your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9231" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T08:35:54.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12917" CreationDate="2015-01-27T16:01:18.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that foul coolant.  &lt;em&gt;Grey&lt;/em&gt; stuff in coolant is usually a stop-leak additive, especially if any of it is solid or sludgy.  The heaviest buildup is usually around radiator cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your car leaked (or still leaks) coolant somewhere, and one of its owners or &quot;mechanics&quot; decided to use a stop-leak additive to fix the leak.  This is the lazy-mans fix for a small leak somewhere in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A head gasket failure is possible, but the coolant is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=oil+in+coolant&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;usually fouled brown in this case&lt;/a&gt;.  I also wouldn't describe that brown stuff as &quot;sludgy&quot; either.  (Though the stop leak may have been added to deal with a failed head gasket.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to open up another question, &quot;How do I properly deal with a coolant system full of stop leak?&quot;  It's a problem that deserves its own treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9232" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:01:18.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15169" CreationDate="2015-01-27T16:19:31.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When applying brake it will push to go forward, like dont want to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sure &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; like a large problem, and whatever is causing it is putting your ML 320 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=mercedes+ml320+limp+mode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;limp mode&lt;/a&gt;, where speed (among other things) are electronically limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mercedes mechanic!  Those are not simple vehicles, and computer diagnostics for them are a different animal than for most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9232" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:19:31.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2015-01-27T18:25:46.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagnostic plug is under the hood. Set the wire for the port you need to check. Hold the button down for 2 sec. then let it go. The light gone blink. 1 - 1 - 1 if there is no fault. Otherwise it will blink if something is wrong. Check all the connections in the diagnostic plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9234" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T21:37:26.823" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T21:37:26.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15172" CreationDate="2015-01-27T18:31:11.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be one of several things, all of them pertaining to the transmission. Whatever the issue turns out to be, it is slipping. Either something is worn out, or is not doing it's job. Just rattling things off, this is what I've come up with, but do not consider the list exhaustive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, it could be fouled transmission fluid. You can pull the transmission dipstick and check the fluid. If it looks brownish and/or has a burnt smell, this could be an issue. You could quite possibly get the fluid flushed, but this could provide other issues, depending on how often it has been changed in the past. If routine maintenance has been done, you shouldn't have any fears about changing it now. If it has never been changed, it may lead to problems. When you flush an automatic transmission, it can clean out sediments which are actually helping it to work. By removing these, you can cause the death of a transmission. Only cure after that is complete rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it could be one of the servos is getting weak. The servos cause the bands to grip tightly. If one is losing it's power, it could be allowing it to slip. Getting a servo replaced is a relatively inexpensive item (when you consider a transmission rebuild). Along these lines, sometimes the computer can cause problems. You might want to have it checked to see if has a recall for transmission issues. A reflash can sometimes cure these types of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, it could be the pump failing. If the line pressures go down during operation, it could allow the bands or clutches to slip. If the transmission fluid filter is plugged, it could be exhibiting the same type of issue. Transmission could just be due some maintenance, but if the pump is going out, it would entail a rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourthly, your transmission could just be worn out and need a rebuild. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else which could potentially be the issues is, your car may be low on transmission fluid. While this sounds like an easy fix (just add fluid), it would mean there is a leak somewhere. Transmissions don't lose fluid unless there is a leak (it doesn't burn/eat it like an engine can engine oil). If you've seen any spots on the driveway or in the garage, this may be what you're looking at. In this case, it could be a leaking seal or a pan gasket. Depending on where the leak is originating from, it could be an inexpensive fix or moderately expensive (the amount of labor directly affects the cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T19:00:50.750" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:00:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15173" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:15:50.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both injectors should be spraying the same amount on that system. Confirm your fuel pressure is correct if so then you need an injector. It's possible it's the wiring to that injector but not likely. You can confirm that by swapping the wires going to the two injectors. If the problem stays on the same injector then it's that injector for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:15:50.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15182" CreationDate="2015-01-27T19:26:09.673" Score="2" ViewCount="47093" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 chevy Silverado must have gotten hit in a parking lot (Florida), the drivers side headlamp is shattered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AK8FA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AK8FA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replacement is on order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people cover broken brake and tail lights with red translucent tape. I was wondering if it's recommended or required to cover the lamp with some sort of material. If so what material is recommended? Or should I just wait and put my new head lamp in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9054" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-12-24T14:27:37.027" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T14:27:37.027" Title="Is a temporary covering required/recommended around a broken headlight?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:19:37.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother covering it. First reason is the lamp gets hot enough to ignite or melt any type of clear tape that you'd use. Second is that there is no need to protect the lamp assembly from damage, the replacement is a complete unit. It contains the lens, reflector and the housing. I would remove the lamp and socket. Cover the socket in a plastic bag so it won't get wet. The reason for removing the lamp is without the lens it may shine in the eyes of oncoming drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T20:19:37.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:59:51.220" Score="4" ViewCount="2990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a panel that will replace this crappy diamond plate (as seen in the photo below).  I would like to make something that is flush with the dash, this has been troubling me for some time.  I thought be best option would be to CAD a part and then have it machined or printed, but that would be difficult given the 3D curvature of the dash, as well as costly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought laying fiberglass would be a pretty easy way to make a rigid part that matched the curves.  And from there I thought it would be fun to use Kevlar (I'm a Kevlar fanboy from using Kevlar rope in a lot of climbing gear).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would I have to do to make a Kevlar panel that matched the curvature of the dash?  Is it as simple as laying a layer to match the curve, and then building on it from there?  Or would I have to use some sort of vacuum to get the layers to set properly?  Would it be easier to use fiberglass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a college student, so my resources are limited to a (very nice) collection of hand tools. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v0aJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:21:50.167" Title="Can I make a Kevlar (or fiberglass) part without a vacuum?" Tags="|fabrication|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2015-01-27T21:47:19.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't even remove it until the replacement arrives. The only thing which is broke is the Lexan cover. There would be no more of a reflection (or chance of it flashing someone in the eyes) than would be seen normally. Another reason is that any road debris which comes up has the chance of damaging something which would normally be protected by the headlight assembly. Lexan is pretty tough ... looks like it doesn't compete with some irresponsible drivers though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulbs will probably burn out soon enough (during first rain storm) or as soon as some contaminants get up on the bulbs. I'd automatically plan on replace &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the bulbs (both sides of the vehicle, top/bottom). When headlight bulbs are used for a period of time, they become dimmer. You'd probably notice a difference between left/right when looking at it. (Not that it would be a big deal, I just personally like mine to be of equal brightness.) Remember when placing new bulbs, do not touch the bulbs with your bare hands. The oils from your fingers get on them and will cause premature death of your bulb (like in days/weeks instead of a couple of years). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T21:47:19.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T04:42:31.967" Score="3" ViewCount="2794" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 2003 Honda Civic with about 140k on it. I've had this car checked out by a mechianic and the thermostat was replaced had a pressure test to check for air pockets, nothing. Had a test for a bad head gasket with some sort of chemical test which came back negative. But the car still overheats. I was told by this mechanic that there is a pinhole-sized leak in the head gasket somewhere that leaks into the engine very slowly. I have to drive about 60mi every day and as I drive at high speeds the car is fine it doesn't overheat. It's only when I am at idle or driving slowly that the gauge begins the rise. On these daily trips I have the heater blowing the entire time because I know it acts like another fan to take heat off the engine. But when I am at a red light all the sudden the air which is on the hot position will turn cold and then the gauge will start to climb. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? or when the coolant gets low. By the time I get to my destination is the coolant is basically gone and it's about the same time I am close to my destination that the air turns from hot to cold and overheats. Please any ideas would be fantastic! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T19:53:09.860" Title="Car overheating when ac goes from hot to cold" Tags="|honda|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T12:18:33.423" Score="1" ViewCount="3746" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem started a year ago. I changed the engine because there was oil coming out of somewhere. The mechanic said I had a hairline crack. I changed all of the sensors etc ... not too car savvy ... Carried it for an electrical check ... yet the problem remains. I also have the problem of putting in steering wheel fluid very so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9243" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T17:18:37.807" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T05:46:01.313" Title="Why is my Temperature gauge keeps going up to hot and car loses power whenever this happens" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15099" CreationDate="2015-01-28T12:48:54.330" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not what it was designed for but yes it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD port gives you access to one of the vehicle's CAN buses (they often have multiple, the safety critical features are on a separate one and they only communicate through a gateway that relays only &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In there, you can either introduce yourself as a diagnostic device (as the other answer here mentioned) and use the &quot;output tests&quot; feature to control each output individually, that's good for testing but less for control because you can do it one item at a time, and the computers may refuse to satisfy your request if the vehicle is moving for example (for safety).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can also let your dark side express itself and do something less nice, like sending spoofed messages and pretending to be one of the car's computers; there isn't any cryptography nor hashes involved so it's just a matter of knowing what packet to send and what it means, but once you can do that you can control any electronic aspect of the vehicle. Unless you have some sort of documentation about the exact messages to send I suggest you start by monitoring what happens on the bus when you do certain things, like locking/unlocking the car, starting it, etc and then replaying those messages. You can even defeat the alarm and immobilizer that way, as there's no crypto and it relies more on security by obscurity (that's how the &quot;magical black boxes&quot; you can find on the black market work, they can start most cars with the press of a button).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a full drive by wire system isn't needed for steering, an electronic power steering system is enough, like most of today's vehicles have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T12:48:54.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T14:50:34.880" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 2003 Honda Civic with about 140k on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this car checked out by a mechianic and the thermostat was replaced had a pressure test to check for air pockets, nothing. Had a test for a bad head gasket with some sort of chemical test which came back negative. But the car still overheats. I was told by this mechanic that there is a pinhole-sized leak in the head gasket somewhere that leaks into the engine very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to drive about 60mi every day and as I drive at high speeds the car is fine it doesn't overheat. It's only when I am at idle or driving slowly that the gauge begins the rise. On these daily trips I have the heater blowing the entire time because I know it acts like another fan to take heat off the engine. But when I am at a red light all the sudden the air which is on the hot position will turn cold and then the gauge will start to climb. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? or when the coolant gets low. By the time I get to my destination is the coolant is basically gone and it's about the same time I am close to my destination that the air turns from hot to cold and overheats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this more after my 60mi drive it overheated and I looked under the hood and saw that coolant was sprayed all over the air intake and downwards below of the overflow could the overflow be spitting all the antifreeze out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:00:25.217" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:00:25.217" Title="Overheating 2003 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-01T16:08:09.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15236" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:35:56.347" Score="4" ViewCount="6417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Escape 2014 and have a question about the climate &quot;recirculation&quot; button. This is the button that is supposed to enable the inside air to be recirculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this vehicle this button has a 5 minute timer on it, meaning when you enable it, it stays on for 5 minutes and after that the AC starts pushing in outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would have thought that making this a simple on/off switch would have been a bit less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some practical reason why the recirculation has a timer, as opposed to just being an on/off switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9244" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T01:29:06.933" Title="Ford Escape 2014 - is there a practical reason why climate recirculation is on a timer?" Tags="|ford|escape|climate-control|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:39:31.913" Score="7" ViewCount="2388" Body="&lt;p&gt;While we were out running errands yesterday, our car failed to start after a half hour stop at one of our destinations.  The first attempt to start the car resulted in nothing but a rapid clicking noise. The second attempt was a single click and then nothing. After turning everything off (head lights, air, etc) and letting it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it started fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We drove it to Walmart to see if they could test the battery.  They tested it and said it was good.  The recommended that we go to Autozone to have them test the alternator which we did.  Autozone said the battery and starter were fine but that the alternator was bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We took it to a mechanic (we're new to our current area so it was the first time we've been to this mechanic but they have good reviews).  They ran tests and said that the alternator was fine.  After more tests they said the only thing they could see was that the battery's cells were all weak which would result in intermittent issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to Autozone at this point (a different Autozone), and before buying the battery they ran the tests again. This time their tests showed that the battery, starter, and alternator were all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we've had 3 tests say that the battery was good plus 1 test saying it was good but had weak cells.  We've had 2 tests say the alternator was good but one said it was bad.  We're not sure exactly which of these tests to believe at this point.   There has only been one incident where it failed to start and its worked fine since then (we've started it nearly a half dozen times since it failed with no apparent problems).  The only thing that I can think of is that maybe the battery died because it had been turned off and on approximately half a dozen times with little driving each time right before it failed due to the fact that we took it to get the tires rotated and balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we replace the battery?  Take it to another mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T20:30:21.940" Title="Alternator, Battery, or Fluke?" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15154" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:55:15.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke with a few friends who do their own car repairs or who are professional mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their recommendation with any OBDII device is to capture any data that the device can capture and log it as long as the device or connected computer/tablet/phone can log it. It is better to have a data point and not need it than to need a data point and not have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2677" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:55:15.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15196" CreationDate="2015-01-28T19:31:31.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is to keep the a/c unit from icing up. By putting it on a timer you are inducing warmer air after 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:31:31.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:15:36.113" Score="0" ViewCount="1724" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 honda civic with 140.000 has been overheating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this car checked out by a mechanic and the thermostat was replaced had a pressure test to check for air pockets, nothing. Had a test for a bad head gasket with some sort of chemical test which came back negative. But the car still overheats. I was told by this mechanic that there is a pinhole-sized leak in the head gasket somewhere that leaks into the engine very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to drive about 60mi every day and as I drive at high speeds the car is fine it doesn't overheat. It's only when I am at idle or driving slowly that the gauge begins the rise. On these daily trips I have the heater blowing the entire time because I know it acts like another fan to take heat off the engine. But when I am at a red light all the sudden the air which is on the hot position will turn cold and then the gauge will start to climb. Is this normal for a blown head gasket? or when the coolant gets low. By the time I get to my destination is the coolant is basically gone and it's about the same time I am close to my destination that the air turns from hot to cold and overheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this more after my 60mi drive it overheated and I looked under the hood and saw that coolant was sprayed all over the air intake and downwards below of the overflow could the overflow be spitting all the antifreeze out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:00:10.767" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:00:10.767" Title="Honda overheating, can't find leak and no pummels of white smoke?" Tags="|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-01T16:10:46.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8814" CreationDate="2015-01-29T01:18:26.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;1985 - 1987&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All GSXR Models have the 'standard' forks with an anti-dive unit mounted on the slider.  The anti-dive unit was actually an adjuster for compression dampening, closing off oil orifices in order to give the front end a 'stiffer'  This concept first showed up on the 1985 GS 1150 models.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkYof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The slider came in black and silver&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1988 - 1989&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slider loses the adjustable compression dampening on the bottom of the fork and migrated to the top of the fork and adjusted by a flat head screw.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9rb3h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1990 - 2002&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first generation upside down fork with the slider in the triple clamps.  These forks were interchangeable with TL1000 series of Suzuki's as well.  They have rebound and compression damping.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4lul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2003 GSXR 1000&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2003 GSXR 1000 had the first front end in the GSXR series to have the newly designed fork that supported radial brakes.  The 750 still had the standard upside down forks from the previous generation.  As well as the mounting for radial brakes the coating on the inner tube had DLC (diamond like coating) and appeared black.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/foOqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;Notice the Radial Brakes&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UUBE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2004 - Current&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All models were converted to the 2003 1000cc style front end in the US.  This is first year of the GSXR 600 having upside down forks.  The design has remained relatively unchanged since this time although Suzuki has added monoblock calipers with the same mounting system on the bottom of the upside down forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T21:07:30.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15210" CreationDate="2015-01-29T03:05:55.820" Score="5" ViewCount="8119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to change the dashboard language of my car, because it's always in Japanese or Chinese and I can't understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check these pictures I took of the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if anyone can read Japanese or Chinese it will help to understand. (I am not sure if this is in Chinese or Japanese).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTURF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xaKa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ELq4h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtDIx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3Pbc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mg44z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65y0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9059" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T09:08:40.880" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T21:05:30.083" Title="Change dashboard language in Honda Fit 2012" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-29T04:21:21.780" Score="4" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worried student here! I bought an Acura TL 2001 about 7 months ago and the car was mechanically sound. About a month and a half ago i started to hear a squeaking noise. The noise only occurs when the wheel is in neutral position and I turn it only a little bit to the left and to the right (not even close to a full turn). I can replicate the noise by parking the car with the wheel in neutral position and applying all my body weight to the front left area of the car. The weird part is if I turn the wheel a 360 degrees left or right and apply my body weight the sound does not come out no matter how many times I jump on it. Could it be the ball joint? Or something with the wheel hub? Or is my suspension at fault? Somebody also said that it might be the struts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T12:14:16.207" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T05:17:26.837" Title="Acura TL 2001 squeaking noise" Tags="|noise|suspension|steering|acura|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13004" CreationDate="2015-01-29T04:50:22.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Had a friend who changed motors. New motor had a slightly different cam otherwise exact same motor. He spent $4000.00 changing parts to get the car to run right. He finally gave up and sold it. He found out later that because of the cam change he needed a different model ECU. Good thing he works in a parts store. If you have a different engine that's a much bigger change than a cam, you need an expert tuner tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9250" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T19:27:14.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T19:27:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2015-01-29T05:07:02.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Mustang is automatic with the 4.6l engine get a computer from a Crown Victory it is 4.6l automatic also and PATs free and the computers are all over EBAY, I put one in a 97 Mustang and solve my PATs problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9251" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T05:07:02.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15193" CreationDate="2015-01-29T05:46:01.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with an '89 Honda overheating and coolant coming out of the overflow tube on the highway.  It was preceded by some erratic idling around town.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the thermostat had gone bad and coolant was no longer circulating properly and thus causing the engine to overheat.  The engine coolant temperature sensor is on the engine side of the thermostat and, as the coolant was not at the proper level, it was getting hot steam over the sensor rather than what I assume would have been cooler coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECT sensor on my car affects starting dramatically if it's disconnected, as it once was due to an open circuit between it and the car's computer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: that sensor on my car affects engine performance by creating hard starting and racing and erratic idling, for example.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check a thermostat by boiling it in water.  It should open up when hot.  Fun to do if you're curious but they only cost about $7 IIRC so just get a new one.  Make sure you get the right one for your car as they come with different temperature settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS -- on my car it's not enough to just add coolant (when it's a cold engine, of course!).  There's an air pocket around the thermostat and there's a bleed screw there to bleed off trapped air and allow the sensor to be fully immersed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check connections to sensor, coolant level, and thermostat.  You changed your sensors so you can eliminate that, assuming that one wasn't missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9240" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T05:46:01.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15200" CreationDate="2015-01-29T07:31:03.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a blown headgasket. It's slowly sucking your coolant into the cylinders and pushing it out as exhaust. My Subaru Forester did exactly the same thing two months ago and I ended up with a $3000 repair bill for headgaskets, timing belts, etc. I also had a negative carbon monoxide test (the chemical test you mentioned). There wasn't any white smoke, it just sucked up coolant and overheated after a long trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more proof, take off the radiator cap when the car is cool, then have someone start it and rev it up. If the coolant in the radiator rises up or even spills out, you have a leak between the cylinders and waterjacket. Let the car warm up until the fans kick in. When that happens, you should see a stream of tiny bubbles coming up into the radiator (when the thermostat opens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason your heat goes away is because there is no coolant to transfer heat to your cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just have the head skimmed and a new gasket installed. This isn't going to get any better. And for your own sake, don't use chemicals to plug the hole, it will just end up clogging things that really shouldn't be clogged. I know it's going to hurt your wallet, but it has to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:31:03.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-29T08:59:08.863" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Liana 2002 with LPG system (lovato).&#xA;I use this lubricant (which I was told to by the guy who installed my system)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.de/itm/2x-LPG-Autogas-Prins-VSI-Valve-Care-L2-Ventilschutz-0-5-Ltr/301484720130?_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940&amp;amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3Dbb8fa9fd58b24d26a40ed0f5b86f27bd%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D301484718320&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this is what I use&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it costs a lot. I saw there was another one I wanted to use if I can use the other one which is cheaper and it will do the same job perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-x-FLASH-LUBE-0-5-L-VALVE-CARE-FLUID-FUR-PRINS-SYSTEME-/161299215669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&amp;amp;hash=item258e2eb535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the other one I wish to know if I can use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any 5 Liter refill I can use to refill my original one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9253" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T11:30:06.090" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T11:30:06.090" Title="Is it ok to use a different oil in my LPG Suzuki?" Tags="|oil|suzuki|lpg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-17T18:29:06.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2015-01-29T09:57:13.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First one: Customize Settings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: Default Setting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third: Meter Settings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth: Smart Key Settings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth: Lighting Settings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sixth: Door Settings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seventh: &quot;Return&quot; (like back to your main menu I'm guessing) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9059" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T09:57:13.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2015-01-29T10:56:00.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t think putting breaks for long time harms enough the breaking system. When we are talking about car with automatic transmission then its breaking system is also designed by keeping in mind about its rough use. Shifting Gear from D to N will make your car neutral that disconnect the engine from wheels using transmission. It is usually done when you need to push your car or have it towed.  Therefore be relax, putting break will not damage your breaking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9254" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T11:31:10.620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T11:31:10.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13091" CreationDate="2015-01-29T13:13:36.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have switched out the fuel pump with another I bought on ebay for $40 and ridden the bike on hot days. I found the fuel filter was heavily clogged which possibly contributed. I think as some of you have suggested it was an electrical fault when the bike was hot due to higher resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your answers! I'll update if the problem re-occurs but I think its fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7460" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T13:13:36.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15196" CreationDate="2015-01-29T16:02:53.253" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can think of this as a safety feature. It is not recommended to keep the recirculation button ON for long time, specially if there is more than 1 person in the car. You will use up all the oxygen. The car body is not perfectly sealed, so the actual chances of you dieing inside the car is pretty slim. But you would still feel symptoms of low oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this automatic turn off, the car will draw fresh air after 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T16:02:53.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15196" CreationDate="2015-01-29T17:17:20.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Honda Civic doesn't have such a timer, but the owner's manual says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The system should be left in fresh air mode under almost all conditions. Keeping the system in recirculation mode, particularly with the A/C off, can cause the windows to fog up. Switch to recirculation mode when driving through dusty or smoky conditions, then return to fresh air mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with an ordinary switch, you have to remember to turn off recirculation when it's not needed, or your windows might start to fog. If you have a timer, you don't have to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T17:17:20.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15288" CreationDate="2015-01-30T06:34:52.993" Score="9" ViewCount="15191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, this is a newbie question, but what is this pipe coming out from the petrol tank under the seat? The bike is a 1989 Kawasaki ZZR 250:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khrUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9263" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T03:37:43.707" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T17:40:52.633" Title="What is this pipe coming out of the petrol tank under the seat" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|fuel-tank|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15190" CreationDate="2015-01-30T07:01:24.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster is right that coolant could be leaking into the cylinder rather than into the crankcase.  This would explain no milky dipstick.  But your mechanic said you only had a pin hole leak in the head gasket so I'm wondering how much coolant could leak out of such a small hole and cause so much coolant loss.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I have is that perhaps your water pump is defective but it's not completely shot.  I'm not sure if there's a possibility of partial loss of effectiveness for a water pump, but my idea is that when you drive fast the pump is able to move enough coolant through the cooling system AND higher speed air through the radiator cools that coolant flow more efficiently.  When you slow down, the pump slows and pumps less volume and the radiator doesn't cool at slow speeds as it does at high speeds. Higher speeds may enable the pump to also pump water through your heater which has an additional cooling effect as you know.  Not so at slow speeds, therefore no heat from the heater and insufficient coolant flow through the system leading to overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overheating engine would cause water to be pushed past even a functioning radiator cap.  Seeing the coolant around the air intake as you did may be what happens when you've had coolant loss and this is what was blown out after you slowed down at the end of your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it doesn't take but a couple of miles driving when the engine is warm to get very hot coolant.  I think you're losing a lot of coolant through poor circulation.  A pin hole leak in the head gasket seems just too small to vent that much gas into the cooling system but wiser heads may know differently. Pressure in the cylinders is very high, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The presence of coolant inside the engine compartment is an important clue.  I bet steam pushes that quantity out not venting exhaust from the supposed pin hole leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can try when the engine is cold and its got all its coolant, is take the radiator cap off and start the engine.  After the thermostat opens, you should be able to see some current flowing at the top of the radiator.  If it starts to boil over and you don't see that flow, that might point the finger at the water pump.  If it were a head gasket leak, I'm thinking you'd see that in the form of bubbles after the thermostat opens. You'd see bubbles, current and then boiling (because of unpressurized system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9240" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T07:01:24.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15217" CreationDate="2015-01-30T09:16:44.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a petrol overflow drain pipe. In case if you fill fuel that overflows it ll be drained through that pipe. it may also have internal connection with a pipe with drains rain water or any water that tries to get into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2647" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T09:16:44.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7904" CreationDate="2015-01-30T14:02:07.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai appears to call this feature SDVC (Speed Dependent Volume Control). Check your owners manual for how to turn this off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2677" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T14:02:07.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15222" CreationDate="2015-01-30T14:14:14.867" Score="20" ViewCount="13809" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting up, diesel engine needs approximately 5s before turning the key for ignition. Why is this neccessary and what can be damaged if you don't do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9267" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T15:43:44.657" Title="Why does diesel engine need a warm-up before the start-up?" Tags="|engine|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15221" CreationDate="2015-01-30T14:40:55.177" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since diesel engines rely on compression to run and not a spark like a gasoline engine, heat is directly involved in the combustion of the diesel in the combustion chamber. The way this occurs is that when the piston comes up it compresses the air which is in the cylinder. This creates heat. When the engine is cold, a lot of this heat gets transferred out of the combustion chamber and into the cylinder head, pistons, and cylinder walls. Since the engine needs this heat to run, it has to get it from somewhere else. When you first turn the ignition on, there are little parts called &lt;em&gt;glow plugs&lt;/em&gt;. These heat the combustion chamber and gets them ready so combustion can occur. The five seconds is required to give the glow plugs time to do their thing. If this didn't occur, you could potentially flood the engine with diesel and it would be a &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hard time starting it after that. No real damage would occur, but how long it would take to start (if it ever did start) would be forever (well, it would probably seem that way). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T14:40:55.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T16:28:28.910" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want 2 buy battery for honda activa 2010 model (it is acidic water not dry one)&#xA;Which brand should I opt for exide, amaron or any other(amco etc)?&#xA;Can I use dry one instead of acidic water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9269" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T16:28:28.910" Title="Looking for battery for Honda Activa 2010 Model" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-01T16:07:43.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T18:25:45.327" Score="1" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know about lexia 3 interfaces and I know that diagbox and pp2000 are the actual genuine software from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are knockoffs and I cant really get a genuine one. Is it ok to get a china made copy and if so are there differences with them, witch one is the best to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is there any car brand independent diagnostics software that does everything possible not just code readouts but manipulations in any possible way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I've been clear enough, Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9271" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T18:25:45.327" Title="What is the best diag tool for peugeot, citroen?" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-01T16:10:57.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15229" CreationDate="2015-01-30T18:42:02.370" Score="3" ViewCount="5721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi, I have a 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car runs in forward and reverse for a short time (30 seconds to 2 minutes) and produces a loud whine noise, then acts like it's in neutral. I believe this to be the Transmission Fluid pump.&#xA;My question regards to what my best option would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be more cost effective to just get a rebuilt engine or can I replace the Transmission Fluid Pump Gears myself? They're only about $60 if you can find someone who sells them, plus grab a master rebuild kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be something I can tackle myself with limited mechanical expertise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update: Rebuilt the transmission at a shop &amp;amp; works great now. You can have it done cheaper but my cost was $2200&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9274" LastEditorUserId="9274" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T22:38:47.843" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T22:38:47.843" Title="Transmission Fluid Pump - 2008 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor P71 CVPI" Tags="|engine|ford|transmission|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15230" CreationDate="2015-01-30T19:13:32.230" Score="2" ViewCount="3424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Malibu, yesterday I was heading back from school, then I started hearing a bizare sound like a whining sound, 2 minutes afterwards the engine stopped. When I got off to check under the hood there was a burning smell coming out,it wasn't clear where it came from. I jumped the battery a few times stil no response, when I turn the key to start there's a clicking sound I can hear the starter solenoid but doesn't turn. Checked all the fuses and relays all OK. I totally suspect the alternator. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7297" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:12:39.880" Title="Chevy Malibu 2009 won't start" Tags="|electrical|battery|chevrolet|alternator|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15226" CreationDate="2015-01-30T20:00:29.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the transmission fluid pump is part of the transmission. In most auto transmissions it sits right behind the torque converter (which is attached to the back of the engine). In order to change one out, you need to remove the transmission. It is not something which the average person (or mechanic) can or should do. The reason for this is because if the pump is going out, this usually means it is self destructing in one manner or another, which means there are metal flakes from it circulating (at least until it hits the pan) throughout the transmission. This means the transmission is going to require a complete tear down and clean-up in order to fix it correctly. Since someone is in there cleaning it up, it's an opportune time to actually rebuild the transmission. A large chunk of the bill for repair is going to be the labor of removing it from the vehicle and such. If you have the means and ability, you could save yourself the large chuck of change by pulling and installing it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, I'm not so sure it is the pump. From the sounds of it, you have something else going on with the transmission. The noise, lack of drive-ability, ability to drive for a bit after removing the connection to the &quot;sensor&quot; leads me to believe it is internal to the transmission and will require a complete rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a problem there which is not going to go away on its own. If you continue to drive it, you run the distinct probability of damaging hard parts (if you haven't done so already). The more hard parts, the more expensive the rebuild is going to be. (Hard parts include things like gears, planetary, sprag unit, etc. Soft parts are things like the bands and clutches.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:00:29.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15228" CreationDate="2015-01-30T20:12:39.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well be the case. The engine might have still been running, driving the belt, but the belt might be burning on the pulley, which would give you the burning smell. You could pull it off and see if it was froze. If it isn't, I'd take it down to an AutoZone or Checker Auto or the like and have them check it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would usually take longer than 2 minutes to drain a battery, but your description of the starter clicking away would lead me to believe that the battery has been drained to the point it will not turn the engine over. If the alternator were seized, this would make a weak but otherwise viable battery unable to turn the engine over as well. If you put a multi-meter on the battery, it should have ~13.1vdc if it were fully charged. If it is below 12vdc, I'd take it in to have it tested. You could also throw a charger on it and see if it will hold the charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:12:39.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T22:03:13.653" Score="1" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota van  FWD- had to replace one tire last year (nail in sidewall). &#xA;new tire - P225 / 60R17 Michelin Defender ( warranty 145,000km).&#xA; It now has about 12km &#xA;The other 3 tires need replacement!!&#xA;Is it ok to just replace the other 3 with the same Defender tire ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9276" LastEditorUserId="9276" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T22:13:23.273" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T03:06:10.493" Title="can I only replace only 3 tires on a FWD van?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15231" CreationDate="2015-01-31T03:06:10.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is only a two wheel drive vehicle, placing three new tires should not pose any issues for you if they are the same type/model as the ones which are coming off. Ensure you put two new tires on the front so that the drive tires are exactly the same (same wear amount). Not that it would create a huge issue, but different rolling widths may cause the differential in your transaxle to work a little harder than it would normally. Make sure you explain this to the tire shop as they will want to put two new tires on the back end ... just tell them, &quot;I want two new tires on the front, with the used one in the rear.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one issue which may occur depending on the amount of tread difference between the new/old tires. That problem would be the wheel speed sensors. If the tread difference between the new/old tires is enough, it may trip the sensors and flash a fault on the dash (CES light). You won't know until it comes on though, if it's going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T03:06:10.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T06:22:59.393" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my upper control arm bushings on my Honda because it's lowered and I have an aftermarket control arm with camber adjustments. The wheel would pinch inward and send me toward the roadside. AutoZone and Advanced did not have the part I was looking for and I finally found them on PartsGeek upper &quot;inner&quot; control arm bushings. It's easy to take off but to replace the bushings, first we stripped a small vices' threads. Woops. We ended up getting them out with a larger socket than the bushing on the inside of the arm and a matching socket on the outside, penetrating spray and a lot of hammer beating. You have to do it evenly with very little room for error. The bushings that I've seen are steel outside, inside, with rubber or polyurethane in between that will break and the steel sleeves aren't the same length. Also the ball joint screw needs to be heavily lubed and you have to work the nut up and down the threads until you can do it with your fingers, or the ball will just spin and there's no way to pinch it. I would like to replace any bushings in the car that are very important. Besides the suspension, what other bushings are very critical components of the car, generically inferring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-01-31T12:28:24.183" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:12:25.957" Title="How do I prevent bushing wear and what parts besides the suspension uses bushings?" Tags="|honda|civic|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15196" CreationDate="2015-01-31T17:07:13.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a 2014 Escape, and the reason for this is actually explained in the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section under &quot;Recirculated air&quot;, on. p.104, says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Recirculated air may turn off automatically (or be prevented from turning on) in all airflow modes except &lt;strong&gt;MAX A/C&lt;/strong&gt; to reduce risk of fogging. Recirculated air may also turn on and off automatically in &lt;strong&gt;Panel&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Panel and Floor&lt;/strong&gt; airflow modes during hot weather in order to improve cooling efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on p.105 the manual says the following under &quot;HINTS ON CONTROLLING THE INTERIOR CLIMATE&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Prolonged use of recirculated air may cause the windows to fog up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; To reduce humidity build-up inside your vehicle, do not drive with the system switched off or with recirculated air always switched on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not had a need for the MAX A/C setting that much, where I live. With most of the other settings, recirculated air shuts down after 5 minutes. If you have a need for heat (instead of A/C), try enabling both the &quot;Instrument Panel&quot; (button &quot;H&quot; shown on manual p. 103) and &quot;Floor&quot; (button &quot;I&quot; shown on manual p. 103) mode at the same time. This seems to keep recirculation on much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9279" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T17:07:13.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T19:08:16.863" Score="4" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year, one of my New Year's resolutions was to become more of a DIYer. I was in a fender bender a few weeks back (not my fault) and insurance just cut me a check for the repairs. This car is a junker/winter &quot;beater&quot; (&lt;strong&gt;2002 Toyota Corolla&lt;/strong&gt;), and so, rather than bring it into a collision center I'd like to see if I can do the repairs myself. The worst that happens: I blow all the insurance money and wind up not being able to repair it at all. I can accept that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Dxok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRR5C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm (clearly) not a gearhead, I'm not sure what to call the different components here. So before I get to the damage that needs to be fixed, here's what I'm calling everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the pictures above, there is what I am calling the &quot;&lt;em&gt;main headlight&lt;/em&gt;&quot;; this is the primary light that turns on/off and has highbeam/lowbeam capabilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the side of the main headlight is what I call this the &quot;&lt;em&gt;side light&lt;/em&gt;&quot;; it is yellow and seems to be a foglight of some kind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can see damage to the metal body around the side light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can see damage done to the edge of my hood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the punchline:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plastic covering over my passenger side light was smashed, but the electrical (and even the bulb) are perfectly fine and still work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole side light unit around the bulb (see pic above showing the side light unit hanging by cables) is completely loose and is held in place by duct tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even the main headlight unit (plastic covering, housing around the main headlight) is loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage to the metal body around the side light, as already mentioned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage to the edge of my hood, as already mentioned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My game plan:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Body damage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix the body damage, from the research I've done, I need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand down any crumpled slivers of metal that have protruded up; probably using an angle grinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Bondo to fill in all the cracks, dents and depressions in the metal, and to shape it (probably using some kind of molding material) just like it should look&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find a matching paint and spray it on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Lights&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a good used car parts shop in town; I'm hoping I can find replacements to the side light covering, and hopefully they just snap back on to the housing unit somehow. As for fastening the side light housing/unit back into front of my car (so that I can remove the hideous duct tape currently holding it on!), and as for securing the main headlight unit (again, its a little loose), I would think that metal screw applied at the correct/appropriate locations should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body damage&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my approach right (sand, Bondo, paint) or am I missing any crucial key steps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of angle grinder (I should be able to buy a decent one with the insurance money)? What kind of pad/head (I assume there are different kinds)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any special surface preparation for the Bondo?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of paint? What kind of sprayer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my approach right (used plastic parts)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended approach to snapping these used plastic parts back on to the light unit, and how to fasten/secure the units back in place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, this is not a Ferrari, this is a junker, and I have no real desire to get any real trade in value out of it in a few years, whenever it dies. It's value to me is that it drives me from &lt;code&gt;A -&amp;gt; B&lt;/code&gt;. That said, I don't want my car held together by duct tape, and anything I can do to prevent rust and other down-the-road problems is of concern to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help/insight whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9282" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:30:44.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:30:44.753" Title="Collision repair with Bondo and used parts" Tags="|headlight|repair|corolla|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2112" CreationDate="2015-01-31T23:18:24.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some interesting info on high octane fuels&#xA;the original method of refining fuel had an added amount of lead. The added lead increased the octane value of the fuel which gave the engineneers of old a better way to control the combustion rate in the internal combustion engine. an added benefit of the lead in the fuel was cooler temperatures at the exhaust valve meaning they could mmachine the exhaust valve seat right out of the existing cast iron of the cylinder head. Some companies still practice this however most have switched to aluminium cylinder heads with pressed interference fit hardened armored exhaust valve seats. However those older made cylinder heads are the reason for the &quot; lead substitute&quot; sold at most parts stores today. Anyways emissions restrictions are why in most cases &quot;leaded&quot; fuels are few and far between. Also lead fouls ooxygen sensors at an astronomical rate so running them in just about any factory equipped electronic fuel injected engine is NOT recommended. Also another note is very high octane numbers can be achieved by adding alcohol. This however reduces efficiency. As an example, E-85 (85% ethonal - 15% fossil) is considered to be 110 octane. the problem is that the stoichiometric ratio (efficiency ratio) for (fossil) gasoline is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. For E-85 it is only 9.7 parts air to one part fuel. So as you can see, although it raises its octane level, it decreases its efficiency to only 66% that of good old fashioned gasoline (another point to the theory that todays gasoline doesn't go as far as it used to as it contains about 10% ethonal everywhere in the U.S.) also this is the reasoning for the moniker &quot;flex fuel&quot; equipped vehicles. These vehicles have an extra sensor that in layman's terms shines a light through the fuel into an eye that can determine the amount the light &quot;flexes&quot; as it passes through the fuel and can adjust the fuel/air ratio of the engine according to the amount of ethanol in the fuel. - Have a nice day, all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9283" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T23:18:24.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T11:12:13.630" Score="1" ViewCount="15180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second hand VW Golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was 'serviced' and MOTed before the guy sold it to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said three 02 sensors were replaced during the servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day I drove it away, the engine light came on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am taking it back on tuesday, but would like an opinion from a third-party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a code reader tomorrow so I can go to the mechanics knowing where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the computer hadn't been erased, and so it still thinks what it thought before the faulty 02 sensors were replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It passed the emissions test (passed MOT), so I think I can safely rule out a faulty cat converter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9285" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T14:46:24.723" Title="Replaced 02 sensors, engine light still on" Tags="|o2-sensor|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T15:27:22.470" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;My care shows the temperature gauge was cold when I start the car.  When I move it just kicks off to the middle in less than 1 min. I have seen that when I look at the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three weeks ago the car overheated and showed in the temperature gauge, but today I got overheated but the temperature gauge does not show it over heat. It was in the middle. I have seen it does not have enough water, therefor I added some water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts as to what might be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9287" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T18:03:27.310" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T18:03:27.310" Title="Camry 2000 temperature gauge" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12285" CreationDate="2015-02-01T17:17:16.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;This is a two cycle engine&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular motor (and most Derbi's) is a 2-stroke engine and as such has multiple places where an air leak from the reed valve (intake track after the manifold) all the way through to the head gasket, base gasket, spark plug AND crank seals can give you a low-compression issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Things to check&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reed Valve* - The reed valve is just after the carburetor and component of the manifold.  It's marked as 21 in the screen grab.  Reed valves are a one way valve and prevent pressure from the piston's down-stroke from escaping out of the intake through the carb.  I believe this is the most likely cause of the issue.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fctP2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine Seals - If you didn't split the cases then you should not have to worry about this.  It is worth noting that in two - stroke engines the crankcase is a component of the carburation system, any air leaks in the crankcase can cause a compression issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Base Gasket - Same as above regarding air leaks.  Make sure you have good seal here.  The crankcase is a component of the fuel delivery system in a two stroke engine.  When the piston comes down it pushes the fuel charge into the combustion chamber.  Any air leaks in the crankcase gaskets, crankcase metal to metal seal or crankshaft seals can lead to an air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spark Plug - Ensure you have the aluminum or copper crush washer that comes with the spark plug.  This is essentially to sealing the head up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tricks&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soapy Water -  Use soapy water and a brush as you are troubleshooting, you can find bubbles where positive pressure is escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get it running poorly -  Use a carb cleaner or some other very 'thin' hydrocarbon to spray around seal points.  If it is 'sucking' air into the system you can hear the idle change when you spray that point (possibly) as well as smell it coming out of the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Reference&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of a two stroke engine cycle so you understand the points that require a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATDZI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Pulled this from oemmotorparts.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T16:04:19.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15241" CreationDate="2015-02-01T17:59:28.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the issue is the temperature sending unit (the part on the car which reports the actual temp to the computer/gauge). These sensors work off of resistance. As the temperature gets higher, more resistance is introduced and less voltage gets through. The voltage is read by the computer and then knows the temperature based on a predetermined scale. In your case, the resistace is steady no matter what the temperature and therefor the gauge is reading steady without deference to the actual temperature of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the Camry is setup, as in whether it uses one sensor for both the computer and the gauge, or two sensors with one for each. If the car uses one for both, this will also affect how the car runs as the PCM uses the temperature of the engine to determine how much fuel is needed for optimal running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would give you more advice on fixing the issue and how to test things, but you didn't provide enough data about the car itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T17:59:28.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:41:20.233" Score="4" ViewCount="1379" Body="&lt;p&gt;After parking my jeep Grand Cherokee 1997 for 3 years, I've decided to get it back up and running. My problem is that the brakes are not working. I can pump the pedal but then it looses pressure again. They were working slightly when I pressed the foot down to floor. Any ideas would be great! Could it be seized calipers, ect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9291" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T10:52:40.740" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T11:04:56.093" Title="Brakes not working after being parked up for 3 years on Jeep Grand Cherokee" Tags="|brakes|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15247" CreationDate="2015-02-02T01:55:58.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the master cylinder fluid level. If it is low or empty you have a leak. If the reservoir is full the likely cause is a bad master cylinder. To find the leak fill the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal several times. you should see it drip. depending on where the leak is you may have to crawl under the vehicle and look for a wet spot or stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T01:55:58.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T03:22:22.613" Score="1" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my 2011 Kia Optima LX with 58,000 miles, the engine shut off and I coasted to a stop.  Attempting to restart resulted in one weak crank then nothing.  There is fuel and electricity.  The engine warning light came on right as it shut down.  I have 2,000 miles left on my bumper-to-bumper warranty.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9295" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T11:12:10.157" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T11:12:10.157" Title="2011 Kia Optima Repair" Tags="|engine|starting|kia|optima|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T16:03:47.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2015-02-02T03:23:34.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Mazda 626 with a rough uneven idle issue..&#xA;I figured out what it is, and below could could help.&#xA;Mine never threw a CEL, but when you disconnected the EGR tube from the exhaust header and plugged it. i.e. so there would be no flow from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold via the EGR valve. My idle significantly improved. I know its not the most preferred method to check the erg, but it seems to have help pin point my issue.&#xA;When trying to diagnosis this:&#xA;According to my scan tool, the MAP, ECT, TPS, Spark Adv, Injector pulse with were good. I was showing a 90% calculated load at idle, but when I bumped the throttle up to 1200 rpm in neutral or in park, the load dropped down to 12% and never missed a beat, same result when driving. Drove the car around and it preformed ok. You never notice that it had a horrible idle till you stopped at a traffic light or stop sign. Pulling away and accelerating there was no notice of a miss or hesitation. The car acted like it had a significant vacuum leak in park or at a stop light especially when warm. I did spray down the intake and all the vacuum hoses with no luck. I did replace the intake manifold gasket before hand just as a shot in the dark and I didn't have any change in quality of idle.&#xA;Before all this I did replace the normal stuff, spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF. ( I was doing an engine swap ).  Oh and a nod to Kahbou.. Thanks for the hints :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9296" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T03:23:34.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T04:29:31.403" Score="-2" ViewCount="15847" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2012 Honda civic with 19,000 miles has a blue temp light on dash and it seems to be running fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9297" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T17:28:49.543" LastActivityDate="2018-10-20T23:37:21.987" Title="What causes a low coolent temp light to come on a 2012 Honda civic" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|coolant|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-22T08:23:42.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15082" CreationDate="2015-02-02T09:06:01.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/30638-programming-oem-fit-sport-key.html/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt; it's possible to program door lock/unlock with a $35 &quot;blank&quot; remote. The immobiliser part of it is unfortunately a bit more high tech (like you would hope). All you need to do is a set sequence with the ignition and remote to reprogram it. I'm not sure if the model's of the fit remote they are talking about and your 2011 are compatible though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7249" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T09:06:01.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2015-02-02T09:22:01.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your coolant level and keep an eye on your temperature gauge. A car will run fine with an overheating engine right up to the point when the engine seizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T09:22:01.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15247" CreationDate="2015-02-02T11:04:56.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @mikes stated, you will need to inspect the brakes to see if they are leaking. A good way to do this is to change out the fluid in the system. By bleeding the brakes all the way around, you will be putting fresh fluid into the system and allowing it to work as good as it's going to at this point. Brake fluid should be changed every two years at a minimum, so it's something which is going to need to be done anyway. While you are at each wheel, you'll be in the perfect position to check the validity of each brake component. Look for leaks (obviously). You will also want to check the brake lines to see if there is any bulging. Another common issue is the rotors will have enough surface rust on them where the brakes won't be able to grab. If this is the case, you'll need to either replace these or have them resurfaced. Check the calipers for movement to ensure they are not frozen or stuck. Also, just because you don't find a leak doesn't mean the master cylinder isn't toast. If there were enough moisture in the brake fluid, it could cause corrosion of the seals in the master cylinder, which could allow it to leak down and lose pressure. This would be pretty hard to diagnose, other than what you've described already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T11:04:56.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2015-02-02T15:14:57.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would stick with a dealership to do your repairs.  They will try harder to do a good job and take care of you as a customer, because they want your return business as a service customer or to buy future vehicles.  Most all of them will have a lifetime repair on your work.  It doesn't matter how many estimates you get or how different they are from the insurance estimate, because if the insurance is paying for the repair, any shop you go to will have to work off of the insurance estimate...regardless if they wrote their own in the begining.  Basically it comes down to which shop you want to do the work.  An independant shop dont have as much to worry about because if they mess up and make you mad, they only lose a future body repair if you ever wreck again.  A dealership has much more on the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9302" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T15:14:57.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15264" CreationDate="2015-02-02T15:23:42.087" Score="2" ViewCount="28008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my air intake temp sensor gives the correct ambient temp reading in the morning when the engine is cold, but that it typically is giving me readings between 7 to 17 degrees Celsius above the ambient temperature.  Is that normal and does it have any significant negative effect?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T20:11:25.777" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T20:11:25.777" Title="How Much Deviation from Ambient Temp is Normal for IAT sensors?" Tags="|sensor|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15277" CreationDate="2015-02-02T16:17:44.490" Score="4" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent post on one of the forums I frequent has piqued my curiosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFR_sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;limited reading on the topic&lt;/a&gt;, widebands do a better job of quantifying air-fuel ratios than their narrowband counterparts, which are sufficient for simple, qualitative rich/lean condition detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some widebands are capable of simulating narrowband output in addition to reporting AFR's, which means that they can replace narrowband sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have come across a few reasons why one might want to do this, but none of them seem compelling enough to warrant a switch over to widebands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;More accurate AFR measurements&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ECU's expecting narrowband output, the fuel management system is already set up to handle qualitative measurements, so I'm skeptical that more accurate AFR's would lead to reduced fuel emissions, crisper engine response, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Better tuning &amp;amp; diagnostic capability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not arguing with the benefits of using a wideband here, but I don't expect that tuning or diagnostics will be performed on a daily basis or whenever the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, is there a compelling reason to go with a wideband sensor in a narrowband setup given that all else remains the same on the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T06:46:06.277" Title="Why would one install widebands on vehicles that are setup for narrowbands?" Tags="|o2-sensor|wideband|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15261" CreationDate="2015-02-02T16:34:54.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, intake air temperature is not the same as ambient air temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the air absorbs heat from the hot engine bay area before the intake air temperature sensor (IATS) measures its temperature.The heat-soak effect typically worsens on hot days and when the engine is under high loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider is that the IATS itself may suffer from heat soak, resulting in higher than expected readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your observation in the morning also correlates with this; with the engine cold and no road heat (car parked overnight), it makes sense that the ambient air and the intake air temperatures match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7-17 °C seems quite normal... one of my cars is notoriously bad - on really hot days the temperature difference can be as much as 40 °C!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T18:33:45.957" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T18:33:45.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:28:53.197" Score="4" ViewCount="2313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Craftsman 9hp dual (eg electric) start snowblower.  It is very similar (or the same) as the one in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/32864/Craftsman-536-88626.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this manual&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;It has been running smoothly all winter - I can start it reliably with the choke, a couple pushes of the primer, and one rip on the pull-cord.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday in the middle of cleaning the drive it stalled.  I assumed that it was out of gas, but in retrospect there was no coughing - it just stopped without warning.  Now I can't start it.  I've added gas, and tried the electric start (which worked previously).  The electric start does give a little 'click', but it never turns over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The troubleshooting section of the manual isn't worthwhile.  Any idea what the issue could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I posted this, I have tried (and failed) a couple times to re-start the snowblower.  This weekend before going to borrow a neighbor's spark plug socket (and general mechanical knowledge), I tried it again and it started on the first pull.  After an hour of work it died just as suddenly, and in the same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my theory.  This day (just like the first time) was very light snow that blew around in clouds (see image).  By the time the snowblower died, a lot of snow had landed on it and melted - there were puddles on the top of the engine.  The snowblower died going about half-way up our medium-incline driveway (also see image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I suspect that perhaps this melted water ran back onto something bad when I started going up the hill.  Is that possible?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/accaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Snowblower where it stopped&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5153" LastEditorUserId="5153" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T15:01:13.203" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T00:56:51.437" Title="Craftsman snowblower: sudden death" Tags="|engine|small-engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T23:35:05.980" Score="1" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to change my oil on a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country van. When I loosen the plug it just keep turning and turning, and I can not get it out. So is it stripped out and if it is, how do I remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9307" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T23:41:31.927" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T00:27:33.557" Title="can not get the oil plug out" Tags="|oil|chrysler|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15272" CreationDate="2015-02-03T00:24:41.490" Score="6" ViewCount="38323" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie SLT, with extended cab. 212k miles on the engine, all original under the hood except for a steering box and steering pump (put in in the fall of 2014). The engine is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LA_engine%235.9L_Magnum_V8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5.9 liter magnum v8&lt;/a&gt; (360).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Problem:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loud squeak, which I believe is coming from one of the pulley wheels. The noise begins about 10-15 minutes after starting the engine (ie, after it warms up). The squeak correlates with the engine rpms, and goes away after about 3k rpms. Also, the squeak leaves after driving through water (for a few seconds), so it's in a place where the wheels can kick water. The pitch of the squeak changes if I spin the wheel all the way over in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Questions:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I pinpoint the cause of this squeak?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I stop the squeak (if this is something I should try myself)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T15:06:02.083" Title="What is this squeak in my Dodge Ram 1500, and how can I fix it?" Tags="|troubleshooting|noise|dodge|pulley|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15268" CreationDate="2015-02-03T00:27:33.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can tighten it, there are some threads there which are gripping, so this would probably be a case of the threads on the plug being stripped. If it doesn't tighten back up,  this would probably be a case of either the threads on the pan or on the plug being stripped. I don't have any real good news for you here in either case, but could possibly help you to get the plug out in either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll need is the wrench or socket/ratchet you were using to loosen the plug, plus a fairly broad flat tip screwdriver. Loosen the plug so you have a gap between the pan and the plug head. Place the flat of the screwdriver between the pan and the plug head. While continuing to unscrew the bolt with the wrench or socket, turn the screwdriver with a bit of force, whatever is needed to keep the bolt coming out. Once the bolt starts biting again and continues to come out, you can stop applying force with the screwdriver. If it appears to be stalled again at any point, put the screwdriver back in there an apply some more pressure. This should allow you to get it out and assess the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of this said, you are going to have a major problem if the issue lies in the pan ... I mean if you don't have the means with which to fix the issue. If you do not have the means, take it to a shop and have them fix it. The actual fix depends on how much damage actually has occurred. Also, if you have an aluminum oil pan, this adds a whole new dimension to the mix (I'm pretty sure the T&amp;amp;C has a steel pan, but not sure). In most cases, you will have damage on both the bolt and the pan. Replacing the bolt is easy ... fixing the threads in the pan may not be. Just be aware it is going to cost a few dollars to get it fixed, depending on the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T00:27:33.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2015-02-03T01:27:47.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably going to be one of your pulley wheels, but I doubt it's the pump. If it's brand new, they usually don't make any noise at all. It is either going to be one of either the idler or tensioner pulleys. And if you don't know which one is which, if you eliminate all of the other pulleys which have &lt;em&gt;things&lt;/em&gt; attached to them, you should have one tensioner pulley (is a small spring loaded arm with a pulley). It may or may not have an idler pulley. If it does, it will be the other pulley not connected to anything (like the water pump or alternator, etc), but is not spring loaded (thus the name &quot;idler&quot; because it doesn't do anything but take up slack in the belt). If you still cannot figure it out, here are some pictures -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensioner pulley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbzWq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idler pulley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SRwa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the two, don't be surprised if they both look the same (the pulleys themselves). More than likely they will actually be the same, the difference being one of them has a swing arm which is under tension, the other will just be attached to a bracket on the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I was saying, one of the two is probably going to be bad and this is pretty normal for these pulleys. If you have 212k on the engine and have never changed either one of these, you are in pretty good shape. It should be pretty easy to tell which one is making the noise by taking the belt off then spinning the pulleys by hand ... just wing it around fast and you'll probably hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take the belt off, you'll need to take up tension on the tensioner pulley. This will allow the belt to loosen and you can pull it off. If you forget the order of how the belt goes around the pulleys, there should be a diagram inside the engine compartment (usually up by the radiator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't hear anything by the spinning/listening method, you could also possibly feel it as you turn it. It might have a bit of a scratchy feel as you turn it. You also may feel a bit of play in the wheel ... some of them have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of play, depending on how worn out they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't get you which one it is, find yourself a mechanics stethoscope. You can pick one up at Harbor Freight for real cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AS2l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do that, find a very long screwdriver and place the tip of it on the pulley bolt (center of the pulley) and the handle end on your ear (while the vehicle is running with the belt in place) ... yes, if you are not careful with this method, it can be dangerous. Just remember not to have anything hanging like shirt sleeves or a tie. I usually take off rings and watch before working on vehicles ... just think safety. It should be readily apparent when you find which pulley it is, because it will be uber loud in your ear (you can also place it up to your jaw bone someplace close to your ear and you will hear it ... main point is contact with your head so the noise will transfer into your ear). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To stop the squeak temporarily&lt;/strong&gt;, you can spray some lubricant into the bearings of the pulley. If you choose to do this, try to get as little as possible onto the belts. The best way is to ensure you utilize the little red straw which comes with the spray. I'd suggest to use WD-40, but it won't last very long (probably only a couple of hours of run time, if that). I'd use something a little heavier if available, like possibly some engine oil from a squirt can ... just don't use a lot because it will get everywhere otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To permanently stop the squeak&lt;/strong&gt;, you'll need to replace the offending pulley. This is pretty easily accomplished by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idler Pulley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the serpentine belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the bolt fastener in the center of the pulley (I think it's a 15mm bolt head)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the bolt/washer into the new idler pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Affix the new pulley to the engine mounting bracket. (Note: Make it tight, but don't over tighten ... hard to say how tight &quot;&lt;em&gt;tight&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is, though.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace serpentine belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensioner Pulley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the serpentine belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the nut fastener from the back/center of the tensioner arm (should go through the bracket and hold the tensioner in place).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the old tensioner from its position and replace with new tensioner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: There should be a small dowel sticking out near the stud on the back of the tensioner. This is there to locate the tensioner in the correct position and allows the spring to build tension. Ensure this goes back into the hole in the correct position on the bracket. (You can see it in the second and third &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1aauto.com/serpentine-belt-tensioner-with-pulley/i/1aebt00006?f=380239&amp;amp;y=1998&amp;amp;utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&amp;amp;utm_content=EBT&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiA3bymBRC19IrD7O_NrYsBEiQAb2dpAxW7EBU2LjSJ80nHKas4PHv974wlT_5eRfR8hmIRMaUaAgkq8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture on this site&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the nut on the back of the tensioner and tighten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace serpentine belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T02:20:09.350" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T02:20:09.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17473" CreationDate="2015-02-03T04:46:30.660" Score="4" ViewCount="25488" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... I stripped the bottom half of the threads due to trying to use a washer on a non-washer using drain plug. My aluminum oil pan (and plug) turns out to not be the standard oil pan for the vehicle so I have had difficulty finding the right plug size &amp;amp; thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently drive it still with the same drain plug. I put in oil every now and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the &lt;em&gt;correct/best&lt;/em&gt; way to put in an oversize? Should I drill out the threads first and tap it before putting in the self-tapping plugs? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I just use the self-tapping ones without drilling &amp;amp; pre-tapping, how effective is that?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use the rubber universal ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current oil pan plug is much smaller than the listed standard size. I got several sizes on hand of 1x Oversize plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T04:55:50.407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T01:42:08.103" Title="Oversize Engine Oil Drain Plug?" Tags="|oil-leak|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2015-02-03T05:02:15.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2012/Civic-Sedan/manuals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt;, the 2012 Civic doesn't have a traditional temperature gauge.  Instead, there is a light (a thermometer and an H) to indicate that the temperature is too high and the car is overheating (meaning you should pull over before you damage the engine), and another light (a thermometer and a C) to indicate that the temperature is apparently too low.  It sounds like you are talking about the second one (the manual doesn't say what color it is, but blue would make sense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the word &quot;apparently&quot;.  It seems unlikely that the coolant would actually be cold after driving for a few minutes, so a more likely scenario is that the temperature sensor isn't working.  This wouldn't necessarily cause an immediate problem, but for example, if the car really were to overheat, the sensor might fail to detect it and the high temperature warning light might not come on.  In that case, you wouldn't know to pull over and you might damage the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the same sensors control the fan or other aspects of the cooling system, then this malfunction might make the car more likely to overheat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T05:02:15.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15263" CreationDate="2015-02-03T06:45:22.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A narrowband sensor can only measure 14.7:1 AFR (stoichiometric) , where as wideband sensors allows you to measure a range of AFR ~(&amp;lt;10 to ~20). ECU's that rely on narrowband output maintain the AFR at stoich by using closed loop control (cruise etc) and may use various interpolation methods for increasing the open loop accuracy for AFR other than stoich. Depending on the controller algorithm and calibration, it could even give comparable performance to a widband closed loop control.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using a wideband to simulate narrowband sensor is pretty redundant unless there's some other benefit to be had (lack of availability, cost, future proof)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That being said, a properly calibrated wideband sensor + controller will give you the most accurate AFR measurements across its functional range.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Running in closed loop allows it to compensate for various environmental changes in real-time and ensure that your car runs within tuning tolerances.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- The car can be tuned more accurately for cruising (slightly leaner than stoich).(marginal mileage gains?)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- More precise tune for wide-open-throttle (performance gain)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, you will need an ECU capable of running wideband closed loop control. Replacing the ECU may be worth the effort (quite a bit of effort) if you plan on doing further engine modifications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T06:46:06.277" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T06:46:06.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15238" CreationDate="2015-02-03T08:59:48.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections.  This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the side panel has been punched sideways and creased at the top . It will be quite difficult to get that back it the right position so that it clears the hood correctly and you have an even gap between them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove a side panel can vary from one car to the next, but generally they  follow the same rules. If you lift the hood you should see a row of bolts just inside the edge of the hood.  Follow your way around the edge of the panel looking for bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to remove headlights and front fender to get at some bolts. Some may be hidden behind plastic guards. Behind the door, along the firewall and underneath the car. Take your time and work your way around. Leave a couple of the top bolts until last so it doesn't drop on your head while you are working under it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a replacement panel first you should be able to see where all the bolts and attaching points are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T08:59:48.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15281" CreationDate="2015-02-03T09:18:06.347" Score="3" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested my PCV by taking off the oil fill cap and placing a piece of paper over it.  I observed a pulsating suction and not a constant suction.  Is that normal?  If it's normal should I clean the PCV anyways since it's probably never been cleaned in 17 years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T11:44:51.313" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T11:44:51.313" Title="Testing PCV: Constanct Suction or Pulsing Suction" Tags="|mazda|pcv-valve|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15280" CreationDate="2015-02-03T11:44:29.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pulsing should not be a huge issue. Remember that your 4-cyl engine will not have a constant vacuum associated with it as it is only drawing it twice per revolution of the crankshaft, which means you'll get vacuum pulses. Vehicles with more cylinders will have a more constant vacuum draw, but will still have vacuum pulses ... they'll just be less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do some checks on your PCV to ensure there's no issue with it. I found a couple of videos which might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/frTRtT9A5rA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; ... just watch the first minute or so of this one. The rest is kind of blah-blah-blah -- it isn't bad information, I just don't know that it's pertinent to your question at this point. (IOW: Watch at your own risk, lol. It isn't too long, so not a big deal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ddPXwMN5p_g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; ... this one is short and sweet. The guy gives the universal way to check your PCV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what you are looking for in the PCV is if you hear the rattle. It is easily cleaned with some carb cleaner. Just take it off and spray it down. If you still don't hear the rattle, replace it with an OE (Mazda) replacement part. It's cheap, (under $4 here in the States) so shouldn't dent the wallet. Also, while the vehicle is running, pull the PCV out of the valve cover (or where ever it's located) and put your thumb over the opening. You should feel suction on your thumb and there should be a &lt;em&gt;noticeable&lt;/em&gt; drop in RPM when you do so. If you hear the rattle and you aren't feeling much suction, check the hose to ensure it isn't cracked or leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T11:44:29.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15283" CreationDate="2015-02-03T14:39:24.963" Score="5" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;We live in Quebec and it gets really cold out here.&#xA;Since two weeks the temperature gets around -35C and sometimes my subby won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I suspected the battery itself, but when the problem was occurring all the light seemed to be working at 100% of there capacity. I found this detail pretty strange... So to get it run again I  boosted it with my other car and then it started and ran good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I had the same problem, but when I tried to boost the car the started made a little click noise and didn't start and the other car lights were dimming like crazy. I suspected the starter, I hit it with my crowbar and it started right away. Afterwards I went to tim hortons and the car stalled... Trying to start it again, it made the same clicking noise from the starter... I hit it again with the crowbar and it started fine afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: Is my problem the starter since the beginning or the battery or both? Should I change the starter? Is it dying or is it because of the cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9257" LastEditorUserId="9257" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T15:02:19.897" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T14:46:30.400" Title="Started stuck when it's cold outside (-35C) subaru outback 2006" Tags="|subaru|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15282" CreationDate="2015-02-03T15:13:17.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the solenoid is going out on your starter, or possibly the brushes are worn out on the armature. &lt;strong&gt;I doubt it has to do with the cold&lt;/strong&gt;, mainly because you said it did it after being running for a while (on your trip to Tim Hortons). The starter/solenoid would have been pretty warm at that point ... way warmer than it would need to be if freezing were actually the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of the solenoid which could be going bad is, there is a copper washer which allows power to flow from the battery to the starter motor itself. When the solenoid is energized, the washer is slammed into these two posts to make the connection. If the washer or posts are becoming worn out, it will only work intermittently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the starter there are things called brushes. These brushes pass electricity to the right part of the armature at the right time so as to create motion from it. These brushes wear out over time. I've had the brushes run down to the screws which connects them to the spring loaded arm which is used to push them into the armature. If something like this is happening, you may also have a situation where the starter will only intermittently engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either of these situations, the problem will only become worse. You can take the starter to most of the major parts stores and have it tested to make sure. It may run on the bench, though. Without knowing the mileage on your Subie, I'd think nine years is a reasonable life expectancy for your starter, especially if it is used mainly for city or stop &amp;amp; go driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T15:13:17.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-03T15:44:19.207" Score="6" ViewCount="43261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving on the highway today and I noticed that my car started to shake. I slowed down and it stopped. I repeated this a few more times and it seems that the shaking starts around 50 mph and the faster I go the worse it gets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just the steering wheel shaking, though it does do that a lot. This is the whole car vibrating. I checked my oil levels and they were fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Subaru Legacy automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9319" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T13:22:30.857" Title="What could be causing my car to shake at high speeds?" Tags="|subaru|vibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15284" CreationDate="2015-02-03T16:17:07.017" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of two things I think could be happening here. One of your wheels might have thrown a weight and become unbalanced. Second thing to check is to see if you have any ice buildup on the inside of the rim which would also have caused an imbalance. (Not knowing if you are in a winter climate where you are would figure into the second part of this answer.) Either way, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; sound like a wheel imbalance of one sort or another. If you cannot find any ice buildup, I'd take it to a tire shop and have them check the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:17:07.017" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-03T16:49:24.073" Score="4" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I've got a Citroen C1 1.4HDI rythym. I think that the engine oil is filled too high. I checked the oil after letting the car heat up and having it on a level surface. I took it to a garage where the mechanic told me it was fine, but I am not convinced. I've included pictures of the dipstick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPeby.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XMJA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9320" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:49:11.510" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T22:03:02.980" Title="Oil Level Citroen C1" Tags="|oil|diesel|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15217" CreationDate="2015-02-03T21:02:26.157" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a gasoline vent tube, serving three purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gasoline vapors can be especially dangerous under pressure (pretty much why it is useful), and as the temperature fluctuates it is safer to relieve the vapor pressure than it is to potentially have it build up. The gasoline vapors should preferably not be ejected onto a potential spark source (battery) or hot running motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As fuel is drawn through the carburetors or fuel pump, that volume must be replaced in the tank with fresh air or the vacuum in the tank will resist further gasoline extraction. When drawn up a long tube with very little vacuum, there is little chance of it pulling in large amounts of water, dirt, dust, or other contaminants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tank were nearly full cold and then heated, or somehow overfilled, this would allow the excess to drain through the tube toward the ground in a safer area than dripping on a hot engine or battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T15:05:26.823" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T15:05:26.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15286" CreationDate="2015-02-03T22:03:02.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm taking it the oil level is where the Blue/Red arrow is at? If so, it should be down between the two green lines. If it is this high, I'd have some drained out. I'm not sure how much this would equate to, but would suggest it's in the arena of around 1/2 quart or liter. While many would think it's not a bad thing to have a little too much oil, it can cause problems, such as the crank shaft/connecting rod hitting the oil as it rotates. This would have a noticeable affect on fuel mileage and on longevity of the rod bearings. Here's my rendered image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zdXZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil level is a lot closer (pretty hard to tell in your image) to the top green line, I'd suggest it probably wouldn't be an issue. A &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit of extra oil won't hurt anything, but any more than about an 1/8 quart/liter is probably too much in my approximation. This is not a hard and fast rule, per se ... it's just something I wouldn't allow with my car. Every car is going to be different as far as the maximum tolerance it might withstand ... that is mainly going to depend on how much oil it takes to fill it up in the first place (ie: A semi truck diesel engine holds gallons of oil ... a 1/2 quart extra will not make any difference with it.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T22:03:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-03T23:31:13.820" Score="1" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a master ASE tech tell me that my head gasket is blown. Possibly a pinhole leak, of course they won't know the extent till it's taken apart. My question is how much will a job like this cost for this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T23:31:13.820" Title="Blown head gasket on a 2003 Honda civic" Tags="|honda|civic|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-05T01:33:42.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15301" CreationDate="2015-02-04T03:23:00.833" Score="2" ViewCount="1921" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Subaru Outback has a gentle vibration I can feel in the steering and accelerator pedal and also a bit of noise associated with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it was just the road but I noticed it gets slightly worse when I turn left and goes away completely when I turn right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels/sounds like driving on rough asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I checked there's nothing rubbing on the wheels and power steering fluid is just bellow the &quot;Max&quot; marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried putting gearbox in neutral and rolling through some fairly sharp corners at about 60kmh, it vibrates exactly the same as while driving normally - so probably not related to the engine or transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastEditorUserId="2147" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T03:29:38.827" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T04:15:05.473" Title="Subaru Outback subtle vibration while turning" Tags="|subaru|steering|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15275" CreationDate="2015-02-04T03:26:03.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty common problem. Buy an oversized drain plug tap kit and retap your drain plug threads with the tap. The kit will also usually come with a replacement drain plug that fits the new larger tapped threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T03:26:03.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T04:52:20.710" Score="3" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a local shop do a timing belt/water pump. Something feels off, now she wants to idle down to almost a  stall when I come to a stop.&#xA;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9324" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T04:52:20.710" Title="1999 mazda 626 v6 Lx, 140k miles engine wanting to stall @ stops" Tags="|mazda|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15284" CreationDate="2015-02-04T06:28:04.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the two likely culprits are unbalanced tires (i.e. they've gone out of round over time, or as suggested above, lost a weight), and some failed suspension component (perhaps a rubber bushing). unless you do further analysis yourself, a tire shop could answer the first question, and your mechanic the second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T06:28:04.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3741" CreationDate="2015-02-04T12:20:24.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing just happen to my car. Cylinder #1 was running to lean for a little but. Then idleing she began to bog out. Removed #1 and #3 plug, both ends were melted, removed as much carbon build up and cleaned out plug hole. Was told due to low octane gas, this can happen and it happens often. I drive a 2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i. I replaced all four plugs and wires, runs fine now but ensure you use OEM plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9325" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T12:20:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T18:35:15.793" Score="2" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the morning my car starts in a single quick shot. After traveling for few KMs if I switch off car and try to start it, it does not come up. I can hear a small tick sound every time. Some times I can hear the small attempt of rolling starter. Then I wait for a couple of minutes, precisely for 4-5 minutes, and the car starts like normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is not over heating ..... &#xA;starter motor has been recently serviced just to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added battery water till top level indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel it is a battery issue. Should I go for a new battery or is it something to do with low acidic level in battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9329" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T18:56:54.247" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T03:38:41.513" Title="car not starting after few km" Tags="|battery|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15297" CreationDate="2015-02-04T19:01:35.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the ability to do so, I would get the battery checked. This seems to me to be the likely cause of your issue. A parts store should be able to check it for you. It sounds as though there is what is called a &quot;surface charge&quot;. This condition usually stems from having a weak cell or two in the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T19:01:35.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T19:40:31.810" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a ASE master tech tell me I have a blown head gasket. How many hours of labor will this cost, and what will the gasket/resurfacing et cetera cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:59:47.030" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:59:47.030" Title="Labor cost/cost of head gasket repair/replacement on 2003 Honda civic" Tags="|honda|civic|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-05T01:33:33.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15297" CreationDate="2015-02-04T20:03:55.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the starter motor isn't getting enough power, and you've just had work done on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check all the wires between the battery and the starter motor for a loose connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or as Paulster2 said you might just need to buy a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T20:03:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15291" CreationDate="2015-02-04T21:19:12.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the steering rack or bad wheel bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T21:19:12.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T02:55:40.170" Score="5" ViewCount="15673" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago, my tire pressure dashboard light came on after I bumped a curb a bit with my 2008 Toyota Yaris's rear right tire. I drove to a gas station and tried to pump up my tires, but the gauge was broken, so I left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, I got a Black &amp;amp; Decker cordless tire inflator and gauged each of my tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front left: 70 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front right: 90 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear left: 20 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear right: 20 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The door well label says that all four tires should be at 32 psi cold inflate. I inflated my rear tires up to 32 psi. I read that overinflated tires can be dangerous, and here's where my confusion sets in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Black &amp;amp; Decker Cordless AirStation gauges the front left tire at 70 psi, above my door well's recommendation of 32 psi. But when I use a flathead screwdriver to slowly deflate the tire down to 60 psi, it starts to look saggy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this could be an artifact of deflating the tire in a fixed place, so I packed up, pulled my car out a bit, and rolled back into the parking spot. The tire still looked saggy, so I reinflated it back up to 65 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need an outside opinion on this, because I'm getting conflicting information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Door well says all my tires should be inflated near 32 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various Internet forums say my tires should be inflated near 35 psi front / 33 psi rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black &amp;amp; Decker gauge says my front tires are overinflated (70 psi and 90 psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black &amp;amp; Decker was at low battery after 10 minutes fresh out of the box, refused to pump anymore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But Black &amp;amp; Decker gave consistent gauges for each individual tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deflating them slightly (60-65 psi) makes them look saggy, underinflated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my gauge functioning correctly? Does my door well recommended inflation label have a misprint? What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7547" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T03:35:59.347" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T11:28:14.887" Title="Which tire pressure is right for my 2008 Toyota Yaris's front tires?" Tags="|tires|yaris|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-02-05T03:36:36.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a good idea to measure the pressure when they are cold because because they will change pressure (potentially a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;) when they warm up, especially if you live in a cold part of the world. And the warm pressure is what matters, because that's what they will be while you're actually driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the pressure after driving normally. For example when you get home from work or when you stop for gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anywhere between 28 and 38 while warm is good, depending on how heavy the car is and how much weight you have loaded (four adults and luggage in the car, you want them harder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, soft tyres bulge more and have more grip, making it safer to run lower pressures. If they bulge too much, they will get too hot and you will damage the tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In very hot weather, maybe run them a bit harder. In cold weather a bit softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use 34 on the back and 36 in the front on my car. The yaris is a smaller car than mine, so I would probably do 32 rear and 34 front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;70 or 90 psi is insane, and dangerous. Who made them that hard? Are you sure your equipment is not faulty? I would measure them again, perhaps at a gas station. And then drop the pressure to 34 (warm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastEditorUserId="2147" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T03:41:58.657" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T03:41:58.657" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16591" CreationDate="2015-02-05T03:38:58.700" Score="2" ViewCount="2254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing delayed forward movement at take off. I apply the accelerator nothing happens until it jolts forward. When I stop it lunges forward, which leads me to believe it is the motor mounts. However, I was told they were still good. I have recently changed my transmission mount to no improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Mercedes C230&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6820" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T13:06:21.410" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:22:49.320" Title="What is the best way to determine if my hydraulic motor mounts are bad?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|troubleshooting|mercedes-benz|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-02-05T03:48:30.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reality check #1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire at 70 psi would be bulging at the seams - you would be scared of the tire's &#xA;appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reality check #2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sag on a tire at 20 psi is easy to notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe what's happening here is that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/ASI500.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B&amp;amp;D inflator&lt;/a&gt; is low on charge and/or in the wrong setting, causing erroneous readouts for tire pressure. This isn't far-fetched given that the device has a digital readout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sanity check, I'd recommend buying a cheap, simple, mechanical tire pressure gauge to verify the values. Regardless of brand, the gauge should be dependable and tell you what is really going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QuldN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire pressure gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T03:48:30.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24269" CreationDate="2015-02-05T08:28:49.897" Score="6" ViewCount="10104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used 2002 Citroen Xsara 2.0 Exclusive (petrol) which had a single electrical issue; the rear wiper did not stop in the &quot;park&quot; position but rather timed out in a random position. Research suggested that a wire could be broken and it should be a simple fix. I have found the broken wire but haven't gotten to fix it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lat week I changed the timing belt. I disconnected the battery and did the job (including oil change etc.) Guess it took 5 or 6 hours before reconnecting the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, problems began! The remote was not able to lock / unlock the doors but &lt;strong&gt;central locking still worked using the key&lt;/strong&gt;. The engine would turn over but the &lt;strong&gt;engine immobilizer prevented it from firing&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;code&gt;Engine immobiliser fault&lt;/code&gt; shown in console.) The car was towed to an authorized garage to reset the immobilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday the garage called that the immobilizer was now reset and the car was once again able to move under its own steam. They informed me that the console read &lt;code&gt;Eco mode active&lt;/code&gt; but the hadn't investigated further. It was arranged that I should pick up the car and arrange time for further investigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking up the car the following took place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central locking didn't work (neither via remote nor by key)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car started and the display read &lt;code&gt;Eco mode active&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nothing&lt;/em&gt; worked: No lights, no wipers, no indicators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I drove ~30 metres then &lt;strong&gt;all gauges and lamps in the dash died&lt;/strong&gt; (RPM, speedo, etc.) except for the &quot;battery discharge&quot; indicator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say I left the car at the garage and are now waiting for news. But I'm wondering if anyone has knowledge of similar scenarios? Did I cause all this by simply disconnecting the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that all work done on the engine was external: timing belt, water pump, coolant, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, generator belt, etc. (Oh well, I &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; disconnect a fuel line but it had nothing to do with electrical connections.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T15:47:51.183" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T14:33:03.410" Title="Citroen Xsara went into &quot;Eco mode&quot; then total blackout" Tags="|troubleshooting|citroen|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15327" CreationDate="2015-02-05T11:12:04.610" Score="8" ViewCount="24972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur mechanic, and i'm wondering if i could use an electric impact driver in place of an air driven impact wrench. I don't have a lot of space to use and store an air compressor, so a cordless electric item would be ideal. Plus money is an issue too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a calibrated torque wrench (manual) so I’m not worried about setting the correct torque value with the electric device. Below is an example of an air wrench and an electric driver respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do various maintenance tasks on my car. e.g. change struts, break discs, exhaust, etc. Maybe i should just stick to manual tools? Please excuse any bad terminology.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4sAp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uikr5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastEditorUserId="6717" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T12:57:23.380" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T02:13:31.593" Title="Viability of using an electric impact driver instead of an air impact wrench" Tags="|maintenance|car|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15304" CreationDate="2015-02-05T11:24:25.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would not be a motor mount issue. What you are describing seems to be an issue with the transmission. IIRC, the C230 is a rear wheel drive vehicle. Only a front wheel drive vehicle would produce anything like what you are talking about with bad motor mounts, but then it will be far less noticeable. A motor mount problem will not create the jolt like what you are talking about, but rather a thump when releasing the gas pedal (relieving torque from the engine), plus you'll get a lot of harsh vibration during operation. Even with a broke motor mount, you'll still get power to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other than visually inspecting the motor mounts&lt;/strong&gt;, the only way I am aware of to test a motor mount is to power brake the vehicle. What I mean is, while you are sitting in the driver's seat, apply the brakes tightly, put the vehicle into drive, and start applying power. While you are doing this, a second person is needed to view the engine (so you must have the hood open). What the second person is looking for is if the engine lifts off of its mount. It would be a definite movement and not just a slight torque over (I'm talking inch(es), not millimeters of movement). You'd also need to do the same thing in reverse to check the other side. Usually, the side which lifts when in drive will be affected far earlier than the other side as it takes a lot more abuse. You can utilize the parking brake on top of normal braking to perform this test. Please be careful in your surroundings. Do this in a place where, if the brake should slip, you won't run into anything. Ensure your assistant is off to the side of the vehicle and not in front of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T11:24:25.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2015-02-05T11:41:21.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is one of those, &lt;em&gt;Well, it all depends ...&lt;/em&gt; answers. All-in-all, I have heard good things about the newer electric impact devices. With improved battery life, they last a long time between charges and can produce reasonable amounts of torque. There are some considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you need to look at in these tools is what is the amount of torque it can turn. If the maximum amount of torque produced is less than the job at hand, it's not going to work (obviously). All impact tools are going to have a torque rating on them. As that torque value goes up, so does the cost. Air tools have a maximum they can produce, but are also affected by the amount of air pressure and the volume by which the air can flow (what can the compressor sustain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the electric impact, you'll need to look at how much voltage the battery pack has, and how long will it last (milli-amp-hour or MAH ... could also be just Ah or amp hour rating). Again, as amp hour ratings go up, so will the price as well as the weight of the tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ensure you look at the ratings on the piece. Amazon.com customers are pretty good about leaving ratings, but beware of the outlier. Some people, because they have bad experiences with a delivery of a product, will write a scathing review which really has nothing to do with how a product performs (don't just rely on the start rating, but read what is actually said). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as you are suggesting, never utilize an impact to tighten a fastener. It is &lt;em&gt;soooo&lt;/em&gt; easy to over torque the fastener, it isn't even funny. I will watch tire place mechanics utilize their air impacts to put lug nuts back on, then come back with a torque stick to &lt;em&gt;verify&lt;/em&gt; the torque on the nut. When I get home, I loosen them all and retorque correctly. I've utilized a torque wrench to verify the torque is all over the place when they utilize this method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T11:41:21.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15302" CreationDate="2015-02-05T11:55:41.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern radial automotive tires often look saggy at proper inflation pressure, so I suspect you are over inflating the front tires to get them to look right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest getting a second gauge, but would caution that the pop-out stick type pictured above are notoriously inaccurate and would suggest a mechanical dial gauge as the best type to buy.  With the price of tires, this is well worth a second opinion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would measure the tire cold and use the cold inflation pressure listed on the door.  This is what the car was designed for.  Alternatively, a little more pressure (e.g. +5 psi) would make the car slightly more fuel efficient with slightly worse ride quality, but, within reason, is not as much of a problem as running too low.  Of course 70psi-90psi is crazy high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rise in pressure with temperature when driving is not a problem.  If you fill your tires on a freezing cold day (273K) and drive them up to 100F (312K) Ideal Gas Law says you will go from 32psi to 37psi, which is an entirely reasonable pressure to run your tires at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9334" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T11:55:41.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2015-02-05T13:10:21.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur mechanic, and i'm wondering if i could use an electric impact driver in place of an air driven impact wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, the portable electric impact wrench will work great. The Dewalt unit that you show in your picture is the one that I have and it works wonderfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much about the battery (other than to get the biggest one you can afford, of course).  The thing to remember about the impact wrench is how rarely you're going to use it. It's really only for taking bolts and nuts &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt;.  Putting things back together is best left to a more controlled tool so you don't damage threads. If you find yourself buzzing away at a particular fastener for too long, it's probably a good idea to get out the PB Blaster, give the nut a good soak and have a refreshing beverage while you let chemistry help you with you rust problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also really hard to overstate the delight of a portable when your Mom asks you to cover over and help her undo some rusty bolts. Throw it in the case, drive over, zip zip done, receive accolades. Try that with your air tools....  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T17:18:29.353" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T17:18:29.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2015-02-05T14:31:50.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a manufacturing plant where we have a need to drive down connections with final torque values of 35 ft-lbs. For ergonomic reasons, we provide our employees with a &quot;run-down&quot; tool for getting the torque close, then they come behind it with a torque wrench (much like what you are doing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've found that the electric impact tools have a better life and lower maintenance needs than the pneumatic tools. Mind you, we were using some expensive pneumatic tools that had a clutch setting, in order to ensure we did not exceed 32 ft-lb with the air tool - over torque in our application is a big deal. The clutch tools required oil changes, and if you didn't change the oil, they broke down, and the cost to repair was very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We replaced these with some panasonic impact electric driver, it too had a clutch setting, and the only issues I've had with it is that the pin which holds the socket has fallen out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: I think the electric impact drivers are an excellent alternative to the pneumatic ones, based on my professional experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T14:31:50.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15297" CreationDate="2015-02-05T14:35:26.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll pipe in and suggest that the issue may be your alternator. Your battery is typically used to start the car, after which the alternator kicks in to provide your car's electrical needs and re-charge your battery. When the alternator goes bad, you drain your battery as you drive (lighting spark plugs, playing radio, etc). Then, when you go to start your car again, you don't have enough juice to start it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores can hook up a tester to your battery and then test both the battery and the alternator. I would recommend doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T14:35:26.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15240" CreationDate="2015-02-05T14:46:24.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, these emissions/inspections tests connect to the on-board computer, and that computer will tell you if a code has been cleared. For example, with the O2 code, I think most cars require you to drive 50 miles before the computer will give the &quot;all clear&quot; after the code has been cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had 3 O2 sensors replaced, then my guess is that your down-stream O2 sensor, which is after the catalytic converter, has gone bad even though it was just replaced. This can happen if you have a bad catalytic converter: it blows junk down the exhaust and damages the sensor, even a brand new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I'm not sure what a good way to diagnose this is, since you do not have evidence that the O2 sensor installed is actually a brand new one. I can say, though, that it is not completely unrealistic that the sensors were replaced, and one of them is now damaged again. Especially since it passed the inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T14:46:24.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8533" CreationDate="2015-02-05T15:09:14.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Final solution: a wire in the wire harness between the steering wheel and fusebox was partially corroded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4331" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:09:14.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T16:57:04.500" Score="4" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo V40 will not start. When I put the key to position 2, the red LED light on the left speaker on the dash flashes rapidly for 15 seconds. When I turn the key to position 3 the lights on the dash clocks go off. No crank, no start, nothing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eV_HIDz-Xc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is a youtube video of the problem&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9338" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T11:49:18.947" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T17:38:05.453" Title="Volvo V40 wont start, red led light on speaker flashes rapidly" Tags="|starting|volvo|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T18:40:13.627" Score="2" ViewCount="2158" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is about replacing a LUCAS FL5 3-prong flasher unit with a plug-and-play replacement circuit that will work with a much lower current than the FL5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FL5 uses a bi-metallic strip and a heater coil to provide the flashing mechanism, see Diagram.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq5ST.gif&quot; alt=&quot;LUCAS FL5 Schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the load is applied (there is in fact the indicator turn switch between the load and the FL5) the heater warms. This causes the bi-metallic strip to bend and the contacts close. This shorts out the heater, and applies full current to both the load and the test light. As the strip cools the contacts open again. This repeats, and the lights flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit is NOT polarity sensitive and was used in both Positive and Negative Earth Cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using LED replacement bulbs reduces the current through the heater to a level where the unit will not function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we need to replace the heater with an electronic equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues here include no permanent connection to both +VE and -VE (depending on the car polarity) and the need to make the circuit polarity insensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should note that there are commercially available units BUT these either are only for -VE cars or they have another flying lead that needs to be earthed. Being a purist I really want the replacement unit to be exactly the same as the original, only electronic and not electro-mechanical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Andrew Gilfrid Day" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T21:42:07.293" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T21:42:07.293" Title="Electronic Flasher replacement for LUCAS FL5 to work with both -VE and +VE cars" Tags="|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2015-02-05T19:54:13.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the people reading this just want a very simple answer and as I've always been told, the answer is 2000 RPM's. If your car was dead and you just received a boost the most acceptable answer for most vehicles is 2000 RPM. While you're driving and come to a red light, put the car in neutral and keep it around 1500 RPM. If you drive for at least 30 mins your car should be fine the next day when you start your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, of course, very important to keep all non necessary electric features OFF during this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, always use a battery charger first and this is a LAST EFFORT to get yourself home safely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9340" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T21:59:41.100" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T21:59:41.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15319" CreationDate="2015-02-05T20:05:28.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use an electronic flasher.  I have no idea if Tung Sol is still in business, but they made a very nice electronic flasher that simply replaced the old bi-metal unit.  True plug-and-play operation: remove the old flasher, plug in the new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even though this was classified as an electronic flasher, the only electronics inside was a really cool relay coil having two windings and a large-value bi-polar electrolytic capacitor.  No transistors or chips or even resistors.  They work &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tung-sol electronic flashers are not sensitive to polarity and were available in 2 or 3 different styles: SPST, SPDT (alternating flashing for emergency vehicles) and, I think, the version you are looking for with two simultaneous single-pole outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9341" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T20:05:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15170" CreationDate="2015-02-05T21:46:10.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar symptoms before on a smaller sedan, a Saturn SL2. Turned out that my motor was mis-firing, and the cause of the misfire was that I had oil in my spark plug wells. The oil was due to a leaking head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you take a look at your spark plugs and wires - depending on their age, you may even be better off replacing them while you're at it and seeing what that does to your symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T21:46:10.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15324" CreationDate="2015-02-05T23:26:30.570" Score="4" ViewCount="33432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hose clamp which is continually leaking. I have tightened it until I cannot turn the screw anymore, but it still leaks. Is there a proper way to install a hose clamp? Am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T01:27:15.517" Title="What is the proper way to install a hose clamp?" Tags="|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15323" CreationDate="2015-02-05T23:28:26.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you install a hose clamp there are a few concerns to ensure it doesn’t leak. First of all, ensure the hose is in good shape on the inside and the outside. If it is cracking anywhere around there, it will probably leak and before long (if it must hold pressure) it may fail completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, ensure the hose is sufficiently placed upon the tube it will be connected to. Most of these tubes will have a ridge around it for better sealing. You want to ensure the hose is far enough past this so that the width of the hose clamp will be completely on the rubber and past the ridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, as alluded to in the second part, ensure that the hose clamp has rubber beyond the end of it. Take a look at these pictures of a before and after. In the first picture, the hose clamp is too close to the edge and has a slow leak because of it. In the second, the hose clamp is moved a little bit and should now seal completely. For whatever reason, the hose clamp is at the end or over it, the connection will leak (ask me how I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCv1q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hose Clamp Before&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4fxA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hose Clamp After&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice in the second picture that there is a sufficient amount of rubber sticking out past the clamp to allow it to seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T01:27:15.517" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T01:27:15.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2015-02-06T01:11:25.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an amateur mechanic, I've been using corded/cordless/air impact drivers for almost 20 years.  There have been amazing leaps in the technology of cordless drivers in that time.  The short answer is that I would highly recommend using modern cordless tools.  They are powerful, lightweight, well balanced and have decent battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use DeWalt tools but there are many good brands out there.  Buy a good name brand product and you won't be sorry.  I mostly work on motorcycles.  It's a pleasure to use my impact driver to remove engine case bolts, fairing fasteners, frame bolts, ect.  They just fly off.  Much better to use the tool than get a repetitive strain injury, and it's much faster.  You can get through the work quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a good set of 1/4&quot;, 3/8&quot; and 1/2&quot; impact sockets to use with this tool.  I use 1/4&quot;, 3/8&quot; and 1/2&quot; adapters for these sockets.  The adapters will wear and twist over time; replace them as needed.  The 1/2&quot; sockets are pretty big, and most of the bigger bolts need more grunt than the tool provides.  Here, I'll use elbow grease or an air tool.  Use good quality bits For Phillips screws and replace them before they get worn.  When removing a Phillips screw, press hard into the screw to help prevent cam-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, do not use a cordless drive (or an air impact driver) to start a fastener.  It's incredibly easy to cross thread the fastener, plus you have no feel.  Also don't use it for final tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T01:11:25.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T02:08:03.783" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem just begin yesterday. It's doesn't go past 60 mph and I don't know what's wrong. Can someone please answer this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9345" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T02:08:03.783" Title="2005 Chevy Aveo doesn't acclerate over 60 mph" Tags="|chevrolet|acceleration|aveo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:30:36.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2015-02-06T02:13:31.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An impact &lt;strong&gt;driver&lt;/strong&gt; probably will not supply enough torque for what you want to do.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-impact-driverswrenches-impact-drivers-dc825ka.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The one you pictured is specced to deliver 1330 in-lbs (111 ft-lbs) of torque&lt;/a&gt;.  I tried using a similar (20V, 1400 in-lbs) Mastercraft (Canadian Tire's house brand) one last year for swapping out winter tires on my car and it wasn't capable of removing the lug nuts without help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up going with the impact wrench from the same line, which was $260 (compared to the driver's $180 price tag) and is specced for 300 ft-lbs (probably overkill, but there weren't any in between options), which removes things no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2478" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T02:13:31.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15329" CreationDate="2015-02-06T02:29:50.553" Score="3" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have your automatic air/heat working and you set the temperature to say, 76, is it that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system should blow out whatever temperature air it needs to to bring the temperature in the vehicle down or up to 76.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system should blow out air from the vents that is exactly 76 degrees therefore eventually bringing the temperature in the cabin to 76.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which should it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9346" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T02:47:11.490" Title="How does automatic air conditioner work? 2 scenarios" Tags="|climate-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15328" CreationDate="2015-02-06T02:47:11.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will blow heat/cold out to get to the desired temperature, then reduce the fan. It won't spit out the exact air temp, but will get closer to it as the temp in the cabin gets to the desired temp. There is a blend door which can vary the heat/cold as needed to maintain the temp. This is how my '06 Silverado with auto temp control works. Other vehicle brands may work differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T02:47:11.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15323" CreationDate="2015-02-06T07:46:17.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one time I had a persistently leaking hose, it was because the hose was too big. I had put a 12mm hose on a 10mm nipple and no matter how tight I made the clamp, coolant would slowly bubble out of it. I actually tightened it so much that the clamp was starting to cut into the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, installing a 10mm hose fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T07:46:17.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2015-02-06T10:49:39.380" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if you got the issue fixed but just came across this article that might be relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/08/17/mazda-recalls-215000-cars-for-power-steering-problem/?_r=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/08/17/mazda-recalls-215000-cars-for-power-steering-problem/?_r=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9348" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T10:49:39.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T14:09:34.590" Score="1" ViewCount="4112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday was driving my 2003 Toyota Tazz, when I was changing to 3rd gear the clutch didn't come up. Stopped the car and tried to put it into 1st gear, but gear couldn't move. Switched it off and put it to 1st gear and start it and there was a grunding sound and I drove home with 1st gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think its clutch plate or gear box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9349" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T15:23:22.090" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T15:35:41.913" Title="Toyota Tazz 1.3 clutch grunding" Tags="|toyota|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15332" CreationDate="2015-02-06T15:35:41.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your throwout mechanism is toast. I'm going to assume your throwout mechanism is hydraulic based, which means one of several things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you could have lost hydraulic fluid in the system. Check the master cylinder reservoir to ensure there is enough fluid to actuate the clutch. If it is low here, you can try to fill it up to where it's supposed to be, but there will probably be an underlying problem or leakage which has caused the master cylinder reservoir to be low. Some systems utilize the brake fluid reservoir as a dual purpose reservoir. If the brake fluid is low, it might not have enough fluid to actuate the master/slave of the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, which would be easier to diagnose, the hose which feeds from the master to the slave may have an issue. Check the hose for wetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, the slave cylinder may be leaking. If the throwout bearing has a hydraulic sleeve which resides inside the bell housing, this could be harder to diagnose. If it has a slave cylinder located outside of the bell housing and utilizes a fork to actuate the clutch, check it for leakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the throwout mechanism is cable based&lt;/strong&gt;, you'll need to see if the cable has been broken and will not transfer the pedal motion down to the throwout bearing. You'd need to track it from the pedal all the way down to the bell housing. See if it is moving along with the pedal as you actuate it (pull it back and push it forward). You should be able to locate it at the top of the pedal assembly. Have a second person checking either under the hood (if the throwout arm is located up top) or underneath to see what movement can be seen. If you are moving on your end and the cable is not moving on the other, get a replacement cable. They are usually fairly easy to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T15:35:41.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2015-02-06T16:02:18.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those trying to use graphite, a little trick I learned of in a camera repair manual is to use a liquid to carry the graphite into the areas you're trying to lubricate.&#xA;The liquid they used in the book was lighter fluid as it evaporates completely leaving no residue, so it will carry or wick the graphite you have mixed into the lighter fluid and then the lighter fluid will evaporate leaving only the graphite, it will also wick into close fitting parts you couldn't possibly apply the graphite to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9352" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T16:02:18.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2015-02-06T16:16:58.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my car last year, problem only occurred when idling and not while driving. This is why I immediately suspected the IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing and cleaning the IAC did the trick for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this will help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9257" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T16:16:58.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2015-02-06T17:39:31.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional locksmiths (my best friend is a CML) will tell you to never use grease, oil, WD-40 or the like inside a lock cylinder. That stuff collects dust and dirt, gumming up the pins in the lock cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite is the way to go, and your local locksmith should carry a plastic tube or rubber squeeze bottle which has a very small tubular opening about 1/2&quot; long on the end.  A couple of gentle squeezes, run the key in and out several times, then rotate the key several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lock is gummed up, use carb cleaner to loosen the gunk, followed by some air. Be sure to protect your paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T17:39:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15399" CreationDate="2015-02-06T19:01:54.623" Score="6" ViewCount="48668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall Corsa &quot;C&quot; (2003)(EU) which is a standard 16v 1.2 petrol, the engine is chain driven and sits at 50k. I don't think it was well looked after (service wise) in previous lifes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently it sounds a bit more like a diesel when cold, but not too loud -and a common issue with the Corsa, however at the moment when the engine hits ~80-90 degrees it starts to &quot;tick&quot; loudly, to the point I can hear it in the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Observations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I accelerate the ticking gets faster, if I depress the clutch and throttle, it gets faster, once the ticking starts it doesn't go away till the engine is cool. It will be audible when Idle and parked too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;slight&quot; loss of power,  hardly noticable not anything serious though, and no misfiring or overheating. Taking ~10min to get to temperature in 20-35mph traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;prior to the ticking starting, when moving off in 1st, it sounds a bit &quot;throaty&quot; like an exhaust rattle but being in the car I can't work out where this is. No noticable smoke or anything from the exhaust as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plenty (almost full) oil and coolant. Oil is fairly dark and theres a bit of gunk around from a bit of moisture (Not HGF, a common mistake when diagnosing things with this engine!) It's from doing short journeys and the build up of condensation. Multiple owner forums confirmed this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conditions:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine is warm and has typically being driven for ~15min&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting in cold weather ~0-4 degrees c.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Used for short journeys (~6 miles each way)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I start the engine, it goes to about 2K RPM, sounds rough for about half a second then it's fine. This has been diagnosed as normal though for this car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I move off when the engine is cold, I get slight revving for the first couple of seconds, again this looks fairly normal for this engine looking on owner forums.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first though would be that it could be the oil, as it gets warmer the vicosity changes and it's not as effective? I thought it could be the timing chain, but it doesn't happen from cold. My third thought would be tappets. I'm not brilliant with mechanics so not a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently put some Wynns Hydraulic Lifter fluid into the oil with no success. Sounds the same. The car &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; have some gasket work done and I'd be suprised if they did a full flush of fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to include as much info as I thought was relevant, but if theres anything else let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT: Conclusion?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It got a bit worse when the engine got to 85-86ish and the ticking was getting louder, it was also happening on &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cold starts for 30seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It went in for a full check hoping it was the Ex. Man. gasket, and they found that the &lt;strong&gt;timing chain&lt;/strong&gt; had a small amount of slack on it, and on an unrelated note the oil pressure switch needed replacing, the old oil in the system probably didn't help the longevity of the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Months on and the car still does the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the oil, changed it, had the chain done and still after a 15-20 min drive it will tick away to itself. I think its the tappets, and occasionally the sound will go away again before returning later in my journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9353" LastEditorUserId="9353" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T13:13:51.917" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T03:38:15.693" Title="Ticking noise when accelerating" Tags="|engine|oil|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15406" CreationDate="2015-02-06T23:19:34.983" Score="4" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was pulling up my drive this morning when my horn started blaring non-stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got out and pulled the horn relay to make it shut up. I tested the relay and determined that it was working fine, and just noticed (now that it's getting dark and I can see them) that my tail lights are also stuck on (the tail lights, not the actual brake lights which still work if I push the brake pedal). I removed the fuse for those temporarily so that my battery will still be alive tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there somewhere that these circuits might be shorting? Or is the horn some sort of weird intentional side effect to let you know something else was wrong (the internet suggested this, but it seems ridiculous that they would design it this way to me... who wants the horn to be going off until you can fix another problem unless it's something dangerous that they're trying to get you out of the car for)? Or is there some other diagnostic step that I should try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all in a 2001 Honda S2000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Last night I was driving back home after dark, so I put the tail light fuse back in. When I got home I killed the power, and was about to go remove the fuse again, when I noticed the tail lights had gone out properly. I put the horn relay back in, and that seems to have started working again too. It looks like whatever the problem is, it's transient. What would a shop do to find the problem at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastEditorDisplayName="user3729" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T12:36:02.717" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T22:06:07.560" Title="Horn blows constantly and tail lights remain on" Tags="|honda|electrical|tail-lights|s2000|horn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T23:30:50.813" Score="8" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;When driving, sometimes when I want stop the vehicle, I go to press the brakes, but that time engine rpm goes high, keeping brakes pressed hard, after 5 second engine becomes normal. It goes high when rpm is more than 2000. I changed tps, air idle control valve, control valve of EVP, fuel pressure sensor, no leaks, detect no diagnostic codes on obd. Please what is the reason? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9354" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:03:00.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:16:17.930" Title="Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4.6 V8 2003 automatic rpm goes high" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|cooling-system|evap|expedition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2015-02-07T01:00:11.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an answer to a variation of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When ABS activates, the brake pedal goes to the floor &lt;em&gt;but returns&#xA;  to normal height&lt;/em&gt; unless ABS is activated again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to a Saturn S-series (SC, SW, SL) and may apply to other makes and models as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS system uses a series of solenoids and valves to redirect fluid flow. A set of valves (solenoid valves/isolation valves) are responsible for isolating the brake pedal from the rest of the brake system during an ABS event. If the ABS unit activates but does NOT isolate the brake pedal, the brake fluid will flow directly into the the accumulator, a spring-loaded brake fluid container for ABS systems. This lets the pedal sink to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake pedal sinks to the floor only when the ABS unit activates, then your isolation valves &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need to replace the isolation valves (which, on my model, can be removed by removing two torx screws and pulling out the valve, which can be done in about 30 seconds and are easily accessible on the top of the ABS module)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible that the wiring between the isolation valve and the ABS controller is faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible that the ABS controller itself is faulty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, it may be that the o-rings that isolate the bottom inlet and the top outlet ports on the isolation valve have stretched or deteriorated. This would allow fluid to flow past the valve's body regardless of its open or closed state. Simply replacing these o-rings could solve the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, two new o-rings completely fixed the problem. This, after replacing the solenoid isolation valves and the ABS control unit, which turned out not to be faulty after all. (Note: the ABS system showed no errors or lights. The sinking pedal was the only symptom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9355" LastEditorUserId="9355" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T07:28:41.557" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T07:28:41.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T01:16:47.127" Score="2" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Honda Accord and the battery died. This reset everything in the car including the stereo. Now the stereo is asking for a code to unlock. Any idea how I establish an unlock code to reactivate my stereo? Thank you so much in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9356" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T01:16:47.127" Title="Code Needed to Reset Stereo" Tags="|honda|accord|audio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-17T18:31:11.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15347" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:34:23.877" Score="6" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tesla always speaks about one motor on its &lt;strong&gt;Rear Wheel Drive&lt;/strong&gt; Model S car. But every time I see a picture of the rear axle as in the search &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.pt/search?q=tesla+bottom+motor&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.pt/search?q=tesla+bottom+motor&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=isch&lt;/a&gt; , it seems it has got there two motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYvSc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how many motors does it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" OwnerDisplayName="sergiol" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T00:01:02.580" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T15:44:39.643" Title="Number of motors RWD Tesla" Tags="|tesla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15342" CreationDate="2015-02-07T03:06:48.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a single motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good source of information is &lt;a href=&quot;http://insideevs.com/video-primer-tesla-model-s-electric-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  About 15 seconds in, they describe that one side is the electric motor.  The other side is the power electronics.  The middle is the gearbox.  I believe from looking closely at the video that the slightly smaller side (the right in the picture in the question) is the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="caveman" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T03:06:48.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15197" CreationDate="2015-02-07T10:15:32.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the starter motor clicks but doesn't start the engine, that means it is not receiving enough power. If you get no click at all, then it's receiving almost no power at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your battery is flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your battery is no good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the starter motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, alternatively, some combination of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description I recommend replacing the battery. Never mind what the tests said, it's over two years old and it went from not enough power to completely flat in a few seconds, that doesn't sound like a healthy battery to me and batteries are cheap. Getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a car that won't start is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time your car is serviced also tell the mechanic what happened and ask him to check the wiring, maybe he'll find a loose connection somewhere. Or check it yourself if you know how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the new battery doesn't last very long then I'd replace the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T10:15:32.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2015-02-07T10:39:21.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electric cars use high tech lithium batteries. These batteries are dangerous in a variety of situations but they're also full of electronics to compensate. If anything at all bad happens (for example, a short circuit due to water) the battery itself will shut down, and you'll have to get the car towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars are expected to handle all kinds of weather and Ford is a reputable company. I would expect all high voltage power sources to be perfectly protected from water splashing up from the wheels which would mean shallow water is fine. If the water gets up into the doors though, then you might be in trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some research, I found someone who's nissan leaf that was submerged for an extended period it of time (the water was half way up the door, wheels totally under water) and the car computers had detected various faults and shut everything down. A mechanic cleaned things up as best they could and the car was able to start, but more errors were detected so they declared the car a write off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that car could have been repaired if it was taken to a more competent mechanic, but most mechanics don't know anything about electric vehicles and they're not going to risk telling you everything is fixed when they honestly don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tesla says that there is no safety risk at all if the car is fully submerged in water, but obviously it would destroy the car just like happened with the Leaf. If the battery catches fire they recommend using &quot;large amounts&quot; of water to cool the batteries down. You're likely to need to keep the battery cool for up to 24 hours, so make sure you have a lot of water available to keep the batteries cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is water won't put out a lithium battery fire, but it should prevent the fire from spreading into neighbouring battery cells, and eventually the ones already burning will run out of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2147" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T10:39:21.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15342" CreationDate="2015-02-07T15:59:50.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing is the motor which is an AC motor. The center of it is a simple gearbox. Because an electric motor can be throttled and can run up to a speed far beyond what a gasoline driven engine can run, there doesn't need to be a transmission. Then to the other side is a &lt;strong&gt;three phase tri-pole inverter&lt;/strong&gt; which converts the DC battery power into AC power to run the motor. (You may have something similar which you use to power a laptop or other A/C using devices in your vehicle, but this one is on a whole different scale.) &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ZOriitPjlcw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This &lt;em&gt;How it's Made Dream Cars&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; episode (S02E10) explains how everything is put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T15:44:39.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T15:44:39.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15349" CreationDate="2015-02-07T18:12:02.627" Score="3" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you stop at the red light and you release clutch while still in gear in manual transmission, the car would wobble and die. Of course you can start it up again, but what is the actual damage caused by such mistake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9267" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:27:12.577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:27:12.577" Title="How bad is it for transmission if you release clutch without gas in second gear?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15348" CreationDate="2015-02-07T18:29:47.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this isn't good for the car (obviously), it will not cause any irreparable damage. It's just a learning thing which you kick yourself in the butt for, but it's not going to cause the car any real harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T18:29:47.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T19:00:12.157" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont understand what it could be. It only happens when I stay steady on the gas, and ranges from 25-45mph.  I can find feel it it vibrating in the gas peddle and steering wheel. Its a deepish sound, that can be imitated by a cat purring but really loud and clunky&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9359" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T19:00:12.157" Title="'03 civic makes loud wobbly sound in engine when average going 40mph @ 2000rpm" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T04:29:57.967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18641" CreationDate="2015-02-07T19:52:51.163" Score="2" ViewCount="7466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 BMW e34 525i with 374,000 km which burns oil. I don't have any leaks, and I have little smoke when I go uphill and accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the cylinder head gasket set and the piston rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be next on my list to check or replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9360" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:42:40.413" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:42:40.413" Title="Car still burning oil after replacing head gasket and rings; what's next?" Tags="|engine|oil|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:15:10.340" Score="3" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 02 Hyundai accent keeps blowing the ignition fusible link. What could cause this? We just recently replaced the alternator and battery and it was fine when I parked it, then for some reason the car was dead I jumped it. The link has been blowing as soon as I turn the key since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9362" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T16:55:16.973" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T16:55:16.973" Title="'02 Hyundai Accent keeps blowing the ignition fusible link" Tags="|battery|ignition|hyundai|fuse|accent|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15282" CreationDate="2015-02-08T14:46:30.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Impreza and had the same problem once last Winter. Battery boost didn't help. Still nothing except a solenoid click. It's a standard shift so we towed it to start it. All was OK after the engine warmed up. I suspect that slush from the salted roads collected somewhere around or in the starter motor and then froze up overnight with the lower temperature (about -25 C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9368" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T14:46:30.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T17:48:12.737" Score="3" ViewCount="1552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 2.4L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past few days my car has started to idle horribly when the engine warms up. While it is cold, the rpms seem to be normal except for a small fluctuation up and down. However, once the car warms up, it comes short of stalling when it's on neutral or the clutch is depressed. Also, when it's warm there is a delay in the throttle response. However, i have noticed that if I raise the Rpms to 6000 (close to the redline) the idle returns to normal until I start driving again. After I raise the rpms and the idle returns to normal, the throttle response is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated &#xA;Thanks in advance!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9369" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T17:30:34.810" Title="Poor idle speed when engine is warm" Tags="|mitsubishi|idle|throttle|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2015-02-08T17:58:37.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had personal experience with a car and oil on fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous car was a leaky Camry/ES300. I did not have the funds to fix any of the leaks at the time and had to continue driving it for work.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At one point, I came off of a freeway and into a low-speed residential/commercial zone and came to a stop before making a right turn. Another car was passing me coming from the opposite side and all of a sudden started honking and honking. I got annoyed and stared at them and they yelled, &quot;&lt;strong&gt;your car is on fire!&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. It was only for a moment, and then the fire was gone, but they described to me where they had seen it:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It was under the car, under around where the oil was leaking out. The fire seemed to have started as I was coming to a stop and then when I started moving again, it went out. The exhaust components were right above this area, and I have no doubt that that is what caused the oil to reach its fire point temperature (@ fire point, fuel sustains ignition for at least 5 sec). &quot;Minor&quot; fire, but very dangerous still. I would guess that there were probably lots of times when it reached flash point and wasn't &lt;em&gt;noticeable&lt;/em&gt; (which is even more dangerous for when it finally does catch on fire).&lt;BR&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Most likely, the recent freeway speeds caused my engine to be running hotter (coupled with zero air flow for cooling) and coming to a stop most likely caused slightly more of the oil to leak during that instant and whatever oil leaked onto whatever hot exhaust components caught fire, spilled down, and burned completely out before causing any &lt;em&gt;serious&lt;/em&gt; problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this incident, I tried my best to find another cheap car that is slightly less dangerous to drive around and was very successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T02:37:45.483" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T02:37:45.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T22:05:41.230" Score="1" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my timing chain fixed before it was too late . I had a great experience with my local dealer and replaced it free of charge , my question is , will it ever get this bad again? I got a 2 year waranty on the job , but was wondering if it will be causing problems again . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9371" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:05:41.230" Title="Bmw 320 d 2011 n47t" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-21T11:30:22.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17228" CreationDate="2015-02-09T08:46:16.527" Score="8" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automotive gaskets come in many materials, shapes and sizes and find application in many places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to learn more about why manufacturers use certain materials for certain applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can give some examples from my BMW S62 engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The valve cover gaskets are made of rubber. They are sandwiched between the aluminium cylinder head and aluminium valve covers, and are exposed to oil during the engine's operation. They also  have curvature to them to conform with the shape of the valve cover &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The aluminium timing case and valve cover are separated by a set of metal gaskets. This will also be exposed to oil during the engine's operation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some of the VANOS oil line banjo bolts utilize copper crush washers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The timing chain tensioner is bolted in with an aluminium crush washer to separate it from the timing case. The torque spec here is 50 Nm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T18:23:33.173" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:36:01.570" Title="What factors are considered when deciding on gasket material?" Tags="|gasket|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15360" CreationDate="2015-02-09T08:54:19.207" Score="12" ViewCount="2356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to splice the pigtail connectors from my old O2 sensors onto the new O2 sensors since the new connectors have a different shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the sensor is right behind the engine and will experience high temperatures, I want to know whether regular 60/40 solder will hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T07:33:33.083" Title="Is 60/40 solder fine for splicing wires that have to endure hot engine bay temps?" Tags="|electrical|o2-sensor|soldering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2015-02-09T09:42:59.030" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should hold up. It melts at around twice the temperature where water boils, which I don't think you'll ever experience in the engine bay (unless it's touching the exhaust). But the greasiness in the engine may make for a poor adhesion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: I am one of those people who would rather crimp than solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T11:40:39.567" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T11:40:39.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15354" CreationDate="2015-02-09T15:07:35.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like dirty injectors or throttle body. Try running some injector cleaner (I like Techron, but there are many brands) through with your next tank of gas. I'd also recommend filling your car with the highest grade of gas you can get for a tank or two. The higher grades typically contain more fuel conditioners and detergents than the lower grades, and that can help to clean your fuel system too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T15:07:35.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2015-02-09T16:25:41.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solder (60/40) or any other lead-based sort has little mechanical strength. And it decreases as heat goes up. Furthermore, some of the wires used in various places don't work very well with field soldering (such as Litz wire). On the other hand many of them don't work well with mechanical fastening, ie, crimping. Depending on the wires you're working with, I'd prefer to crimp, solder, and maybe even use a heat resistant wire nut on top of it all. And I would be certain to strain relief the join, so vibration won't cause a mechanical stress or strain and pull the joint apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it makes sense to (more or less) braze a connection in the case of something whose environment is quite hot (ie, near exhaust manifolds). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you haven't said which sort of engine you have -- I'm merely assuming it's some sort of gasoline automotive engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9378" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T18:20:34.097" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:20:34.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2015-02-09T18:08:17.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the clutch portion of your automatic transmission has too much friction.  Happens with worn plates and burnt fluid.  Often time a transmission service where they replace fluid and filter wont fix this because there can still be alot of the older sludge.  In my 98 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 I have this same issue.  I dumped a can of sea foam trans tune into the transmission- as it claims to dissolve dirt and sludge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice a slight improvement on the first day.  And after about two weeks of driving the vibrations while in gear at stop lights had almost abated.  My recommendation is to run the sea foa for a month or two and then replace the fluid and filter in the transmission again.  This gets expensive even if you do the work yourself.  I did this process twice and added zmax transmission formula along with the fluid the second time.  The issue is gone and I've saved myself engine and transmission mounts by reducing the shudder vibrations at a stoplight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9380" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:08:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T19:59:50.097" Score="2" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my 1998/99 Toyota RAV 4 car for sometime with the Ac powered on, the engine goes off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once i start the car, it responds and it does not stop at all when i off the AC, once AC is on , it will be offing the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please who have an idea what could me causing this on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9382" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:45:26.197" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:45:26.197" Title="1999 Toyota RAV 4 Car Stops when AC is powered on after driving for a while" Tags="|toyota|ac|hvac|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15370" CreationDate="2015-02-09T20:45:30.910" Score="3" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently bought a 97 Sentra with less than 15k on it. I have never driven a Sentra before, so I'm not even sure if there is a problem. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of power and I have to really give it some gas up hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this could just be the little 1.6L inline, 115 HP engine. Especially because I was borrowing a Mini cooper while I looked for a car, which is much sportier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no problem getting up to speed (on flat surfaces) at it does 80+ fine. I just don't want to floor it so it takes 45 seconds or so to get to 65.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed the plugs/oil/tires and air filter. I'll do the fuel filter next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would flooring it 0-60 in 10 seconds be a good test if the car is accelerating as it should? (That is what it is rated for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9383" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T01:28:57.513" Title="97 Sentra Slow Acceleration?" Tags="|nissan|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15366" CreationDate="2015-02-09T21:20:41.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your A/C compressor is locked up. You can test it by trying to turn the A/C compressor by hand (without the engine running, of course). Remember, there are two portions to the front of the A/C compressor where it attaches to the engine. You have the clutch portion which is contained within the pulley (where the belt rides). Then you have the compressor itself, which contains the other half of the clutch on the snout of it. You should be able to turn the hub by hand. If you cannot, I'd bet that's your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T21:20:41.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T14:23:22.570" Score="9" ViewCount="3131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me be clear: I am speaking about the &lt;strong&gt;rear wheel drive&lt;/strong&gt; model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I've asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15342/number-of-motors-rwd-tesla&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15342/number-of-motors-rwd-tesla&lt;/a&gt; , it seems Tesla's rear axle has only one motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching the Internet, it could not be clear for me if there is a mechanical differential at the center or if it the distribution of different speeds per wheel is done by software, as the info I find on it, seems all based on suppositions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if instead of using one motor, it used two smaller ones, one for left wheel and another for the right wheel. With the motor outputs not spinning on the axle center, but in the left an right extremes. And the differential made by electronic control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some disadvantages on this approach: need for two separate gearboxes/clutches and need electronics to control two motors separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are there advantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" OwnerDisplayName="sergiol" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T15:43:23.373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:19:19.007" Title="Is there an advantage using 2 smaller motors on Tesla car's rear axle?" Tags="|differential|tesla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15367" CreationDate="2015-02-10T01:28:57.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It did fine on the 0-60, so it's just a small engine. I'll Seafoam it anyways, wouldn't hurt. O2 sensors should be fine, it passed smog with flying colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9383" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T01:28:57.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15372" CreationDate="2015-02-10T02:26:46.503" Score="4" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a can of fix-a-flat in my car, and when the temperature dropped last week, the stuff froze solid. I didn't notice any damage to the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it compromised? If that's a possibility, then I will just replace it. Don't want to find out the hard way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T03:12:01.007" Title="Can I use Fix-a-Flat after it froze solid?" Tags="|tires|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15371" CreationDate="2015-02-10T03:12:01.007" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixaflat.com/faq/&quot;&gt;Fix-A-Flat&lt;/a&gt; website FAQ, it's still good once thawed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, if the temperature falls below 32 degrees Fahrenheit it will freeze. The product in the can is not damaged and may be used after thawing. If the product is in the tire, and freezing weather is predicted, then immediately take the vehicle to a qualified tire professional for repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T03:12:01.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2015-02-10T06:43:48.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it will be fine...if you correctly solder it. If you dont know how to solder then i would suggest a crimp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9386" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T06:43:48.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T13:16:28.210" Score="2" ViewCount="2369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante, and I keep two battery boosters in the car &quot;just in case&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son recently bought a car that had problems starting. He has used both my boosters on his car and claims they are now both broken. He had also, a few times, switched out and used my battery, and now my car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the problem started, I was able to charge the &quot;broken&quot; boosters and even though my car would not start on its own, I could at least start it with a booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I went out to the car and saw that he had put a battery charger with missing clamps on my battery. Only the black wires (where the clamp belongs) were  connected to the car -- the red side was loose. The charger was blinking zeros and it sparked when I tried to remove the black side wires, so I unplugged it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, I got my fully charged booster and connected it, red then black, and it instantly drained from 13.3 down to 6.4. The car wouldn't start. I tried again with the other fully charged booster and the same thing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have my boosters or battery been damaged somehow? Can I fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the way he had it connected this morning was wrong, but I can't find any solid info to explain it. I've asked many people why the red cable must be connected before the black, and why it can do damage to your car and battery if this isn't done properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9397" OwnerDisplayName="clover svea" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T11:33:55.990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:33:55.990" Title="Would leaving a battery booster with only one terminal connected harm it or the battery?" Tags="|battery|troubleshooting|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15375" CreationDate="2015-02-10T13:47:08.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story is a bit rambling, but it sounds like your son's car has a serious electrical problem. 3 batteries behaving well for a long time, and all having problems at once is not a coincidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take one of your batteries to a garage (or, better, a battery shop) and have them charge and test it. It is possible to damage a car battery by overloading or overcharging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your first question about wether to connect the red or black wire first, the connection order doesn't matter electrically and will cause no damage if done in the other order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason there's a rule about &quot;black first&quot; mainly relates to the fact that batteries have big, bolt-on terminals that usually require tools. If you remove the black wire first, and your wrench touches the car frame, nothing will happen - the black wire is also attached to the car frame. If you remove the red wire first and your wrench touches the car frame, you will have a direct short across the battery which is bad for everyone involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Booster / charger cables should be connectged red-red, black-(frame away from the battery). Again, electrically it makes no difference. The final connection will make a spark, and car batteries often leak hydrogen gas which likes to explode. Like the Hindenburg but not as big. Make the last connection away from the battery and it doesn't happen as easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9388" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T13:47:08.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15045" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:35:04.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things can contribute to poor braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pads not heated - as u stated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluid on the rotor - unlikely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes not bedded in - happened to me once. The contact path on the pads were not optimal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how are you doing the brake test? I have hawk street pads and if i speed off in the mornings from my cold start, and THEN hold my brake, i better not be heading towards a wall as i won't be able to stop! The brake is very tough and won't go down to the floor. &#xA;This is a brake booster issue. After the first few pumps it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9389" LastEditorUserId="9389" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T15:02:30.363" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T15:02:30.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11142" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:41:34.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Injectors or spark plug leads (if not using coil packs). When was the last time u changed your plugs? &#xA;Also check for tears in vacuum hoses. Though usually vacuum leaks symptoms wouldn't disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:41:34.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:57:03.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you engine braking is done in a way to causes your car to over-rev, you can look forward to picking up a rod on your passenger seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the engine is doing under regular engine braking is suffering from a vacuuming effect as the pistons are moving downwards while the throttle is closed. &#xA;So vacuum wants to pull the pistons up and the momentum of the car continues the rotation of the crank and fights against this vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low compression ratio engines are marginally poorer at engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:57:03.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15375" CreationDate="2015-02-10T15:27:50.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paul explained the safety reasons, but not the usage issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deep draining a regular battery will kill it, as would over charging or over volting. The smaller batteries in your boosters too. So will letting them sit for too long, batteries do have a shelf life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the black ground cable connected will not do anything bad. Leaving it fully connected for too long would (drains them too deeply). Using them as a replacement for a real charger or too much would too. Those battery boosters are meant for the occasional &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;whoops&lt;/em&gt; I left lights on overnight&lt;/strong&gt; not &lt;strong&gt;my battery is dead, alternator is crap,  major unsolved battery drain issue&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he is a real mechanic, he should know he needs a proper wall powered charger, and fix the issue his car is having. While it's possible that your boosters just happened to go bad with age, it's not likely. Tell him to stop using your car battery and to replace one of the boosters. You shouldn't need two though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T15:27:50.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15375" CreationDate="2015-02-10T16:06:06.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car's battery has been removed a few times there is a chance that the terminals and/or wires have become loose or damaged.  Loose connections could reduce the voltage that is getting to your starter.  With a lower voltage getting to the starter motor there may not be enough power to start the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to go through each connection point and do some tightening.  If you have a simple voltmeter a bad connections can be checked for by placing the voltmeter probes across the suspected connection while someone cranks the engine. A reading approaching or exceeding 0.5v may indicate a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common car battery that has been fully discharged one or more times can also be severely damaged or completely ruined. For this a voltmeter on the battery might show a reading below 12v even after the car was recently running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to be sure about the condition of a car battery is to bring it to a shop that has a battery load tester.  Many auto parts stores have these now and they usually let you use then free, (basically because they would love to sell you a new battery.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need a new battery I guess you know where to send the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T16:06:06.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15045" CreationDate="2015-02-10T16:06:50.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you either don't have enough brake fluid in the system, or that the pedal travel is different now for whatever reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm also skeptical of drilled and slotted rotors. They have less surface area that actually comes in contact with the brake pad, so the net effect is that your brake pads are &quot;smaller&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you might have two separate issues here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's something wrong with the hydraulics. Specifically with how far the pedal travels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your rotors aren't the best choice for street driving. Slotting and drilling is really only for race conditions where the holes and grooves improve heat dissipation. They actually work against you in normal operating conditions because your contact area is smaller (brake pads don't grip on the air in the slots and holes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe the rotors are constructed of material that is simply too hard and slippery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T16:06:50.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15385" CreationDate="2015-02-10T19:09:23.007" Score="8" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between superchargers and turbochargers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked it up before but I really don't understand what the difference is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9395" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T20:02:18.233" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T08:39:09.997" Title="How does a supercharger differ from a turbocharger?" Tags="|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2015-02-10T19:22:16.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both turbochargers and superchargers perform the same function: compress air that will be fed into the engine. In other words, they are glorified air compressors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any compressor, both need energy in order to compress the air, which is where the difference between the two devices becomes relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Superchargers&lt;/strong&gt; are belt-driven or chain-driven, so the compressor rotor is mechanically coupled to the rotation of the engine; when the engine rotates, the supercharger vanes rotate and compress air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZvPQ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;How Superchargers Work&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turbochargers&lt;/strong&gt; use a completely different energy source - hot exhaust gases. The idea here is to make use of the hot gases to spin a turbine, which turns a shaft that turns the compressor vanes. As the hot exhaust gases perform work in turning the shaft, they cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JbEaY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;How Turbochargers Work&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is concisely captured on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/supercharger1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HowStuffWorks&lt;/a&gt; page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike turbochargers, which use the exhaust gases created by&#xA;  combustion to power the compressor, superchargers draw their power&#xA;  directly from the crankshaft. Most are driven by an accessory belt,&#xA;  which wraps around a pulley that is connected to a drive gear. The&#xA;  drive gear, in turn, rotates the compressor gear. The rotor of the&#xA;  compressor can come in various designs, but its job is to draw air in,&#xA;  squeeze the air into a smaller space and discharge it into the intake&#xA;  manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comparing the two...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both technologies have their advantages and disadvantages; the &quot;better&quot; choice depends on a number of factors which include design philosophy, cost, available space, controller complexity and desired torque/power gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there are plenty of &quot;forced-induction&quot; configurations out in the wild, ranging from single superchargers to twin-turbo and three-turbo (!) setups. In fact, some VW engines operate a turbocharger &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a supercharger in tandem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T05:21:56.090" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T05:21:56.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15388" CreationDate="2015-02-10T21:00:31.077" Score="14" ViewCount="107942" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that everyone and their grandmother has a different &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color-code convention for 4-wire O2 sensors&lt;/a&gt;, which complicates matters when one is trying to wire up a replacement &quot;universal&quot; O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to determine signal-wire polarity on a 4-wire O2 sensor without relying on wire color-coding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6EWo7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KUY5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NtXL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chevrolet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Fhq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Red-Black-Purple-Tan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fEEia.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Purple-White-Black-Grey&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T11:03:04.340" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T22:36:38.437" Title="Do I have to rely on wire color to correctly wire up an O2 sensor?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15387" CreationDate="2015-02-10T21:00:31.077" Score="16" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No, you don't have to rely on wire colors to figure out what's what.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With nothing more than a decent multimeter and premix flame (blowtorch or gas stove), a two-test sequence can reveal the identity of each wire, assuming the O2 sensor is fully-functional:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Determine the heater wires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be done first. These wires serve to heat up the O2 sensor to bring it up to operating temperature via a resistance-based heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test, set the multimeter to resistance mode and use it to probe and figure out which wires register a resistance (usually 4-6 Ω). The two wires which register a resistance reading are the heater wires; the other two will show up as an open circuit or infinite resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the O2 heater is resistor-based, polarity is not a concern here. Note down which two wires correspond to the heater circuit and proceed to Test 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Determine sensor signal polarity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O2 sensor signal gives an indication of oxygen content sensed by the probe by sending an induced voltage that corresponds to the level of oxygen detected. However, this does require the sensor to be heated up to operating temperature. &lt;strong&gt;Necessary precaution must be taken&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test, set the multimeter to voltage mode and attach its probes to the two non-heater wires, noting which probe is negative and which is positive. Heat up the sensor's tip with the premix flame. Within a minute, the sensor should register a voltage in the 0-1 V range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the voltage signal is positive, this indicates that the positive multimeter probe is connected to the signal wire and negative probe is connected to earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the voltage signal is negative, the multimeter probes have been connected in the opposite sense, so the negative probe is connected to the signal wire, while the positive probe is connected to earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T21:00:31.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:20:30.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do suggest switching to the reserve position when your on your way to gas station. Some things like water are heavier than gas and that is a good way to minimize gunk build up in the tank occuring below the normal pickup tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9399" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T23:20:30.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:40:39.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is a dual overhead camshaft engine. In that case, one of your lifters or springs may be going bad. This would slow down the return of the lifter as the cam moves away from it. that would create a momentary space and then a click when the lifter contacts the cam again.  Just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic probably has a modified stethoscope that he (or she) can use to pinpoint which cylinder is clicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a rocker arm in a 351W ford that was slightly loose because it was not thick enough at the mounting hole and creating a click. Added a .020&quot; SS washer and fixed that. No rockers (probably) in the DOHC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T23:40:39.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15395" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:50:19.710" Score="5" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently failed an emissions test because my CAT and EVAP readiness monitors were &quot;Not Ready&quot; following a reset check engine light a few weeks back, which told me that the engine coolant wasn't running hot enough. I've confirmed this with a ODB-II scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to pg 13 of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt; (which is for a 2002, but I assume they are similar), my engine coolant temperature needs to be 176 degrees F for the CAT monitor to start running.  My scanner is telling me that my ECT is running at ~160 degrees F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out if this means a sensor is busted, or something else (like cold weather) is causing the ECT to be that low. Can anyone recommend a next step that I might try on my own instead of taking it into the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9401" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T05:20:52.023" Title="2003 Toyota Rav4 ECT Too Low for Readiness Monitor Drive Pattern" Tags="|toyota|coolant|emissions|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15394" CreationDate="2015-02-11T05:20:52.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of possible &lt;strong&gt;root causes&lt;/strong&gt; for failure, the following scenarios are likely culprits for a cooling system to run too cool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A temperature sensor that's reporting lower-than-actual temperatures due to issues like drift/fouling/calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A sticking thermostat that is flowing more coolant than necessary to maintain 176 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Really cold ambient air temperature which prevents the system from settling down at the desired 176 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;most likely culprit&lt;/strong&gt; based on the information provided is a sticking thermostat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature sensor malfunctions, one would observe negative temperatures with the scan tool, which in this case isn't happening. While temperature misrepresentation is a possibility, most temperature sensors have a tendency to either work well or not work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A stuck-open thermostat will give slightly-below-par engine coolant temperatures, as is the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More information is needed about the ambient air temperature in order to comment on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T05:20:52.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2015-02-11T08:39:09.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A turbo is a &lt;em&gt;type of&lt;/em&gt; supercharger. Superchargers all compress the intake air before pushing it into the engine. A turbine-supercharger (aka &quot;turbo&quot;) is powered by a turbine wheel connected to the exhaust. Other superchargers are driven via a pulley system directly from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all really. Conceptually speaking, a centrifugal supercharger and turbocharger are the closest in terms of performance and function. They both provide increasing levels of boost as RPM increases (within the limits of their efficiency). The only difference is that a centrifugal charger does not need to &quot;spool up&quot; because its speed is dictated by RPM, while a turbo's speed is dictated by the speed and volume of the exhaust gases, so there's a small amount of &quot;lag&quot; while the gases increase in proportion to how much boost is fed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro tip: it is possible to run &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; superchargers without installing an intercooler because they produce much less heat than a turbo. Although they eat a lot of torque in the process of increasing performance, so they are less efficient than turbos and will be worse for fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T08:39:09.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15400" CreationDate="2015-02-11T09:16:42.000" Score="2" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone I know just seriously damaged their 2005 VW Beetle and it may not be worth fixing (drove over a divider and at least broke the transmission). The car has approximately 34k miles on it, if I remember correctly.&#xA;My mechanic recently told me that the catalytic converter in my 2.0 L 2004 VW Jetta is starting to get clogged, judging by the 80'C temperature drop between input and output and that he thinks the performance is not good enough for a 2L engine. The Jetta has about 92k miles on it.&#xA;Is the cat converter from the Beetle compatible with my car? If it is, would it be worth the effort of trying so salvage it from the Beetle, assuming it isn't damaged, and what would be a fair price to offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9402" LastEditorUserId="9402" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T01:41:36.270" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T01:41:36.270" Title="Can the catalytic converter from a 2005 VW Beetle be used in a 2004 VW Jetta?" Tags="|vw|jetta|catalytic-converter|beetle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15397" CreationDate="2015-02-11T10:25:20.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Beetle is the 2l version, then they have the same engine, so you should be good to go. I don't know however if the section of pipe that the cat is in is compatible with the Jetta. These things are pretty cheap, relatively speaking. I would be surprised if they cost more than $100 to $150 (I don't know where in the world you are, but everyone knows how much a dollar is worth in their local currency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T10:25:20.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2015-02-11T10:36:43.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corsa's (actually Vauxhalls/Opels in general) sometimes have noisy hydraulic lifters. I drove mine for 60 thousand kilometers with this noise before I upgraded to a Turbo Coupe and gave the car to my mom. No problems so far. The Coupe had the same stupid tick. Again, I drove it for 30 thousand kilometers before trading it in for a Subaru Forester XT. Only problem I had with it was the turbo. Nothing wrong with the lifters or valves. If you click on my profile and check out my questions, you'll actually see one &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7539/astra-turbo-sounding-like-a-diesel&quot;&gt;where I posted a video of a loud ticking coming from my engine bay in the Coupe&lt;/a&gt;. I assume this is the same sound you hear. (The video makes it out to be a bit harsher than it actually is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These noises are usually a valve that's stuck for whatever reason. It's something you can have looked at when the car is in for a major service or something, but it's my experience, and there is considerable consensus, that it's not a serious problem that you need to immediately spend your Valentine's Day money on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T10:36:43.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15397" CreationDate="2015-02-11T14:12:46.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking it up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RockAuto.com&lt;/a&gt;, it shows for the 2.0l SOHC engine (they do not list an option for a 2.0L DOHC in the Beetle), the catalytic convertor which is offered there is a direct fit for 2001-2005 Beetle and for the 2002-2006 Jetta (as well as the 2001-2005 Golf and some even have it for a Mercedes model ... argh). This would seem to me to mean the cat in the Beetle should fit over to your Jetta without the need for modification. I think there is a flex pipe at the head (where the cat pipe connects to the turbo), so any small variance should not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cost of a new one, examples from rockauto are in the $250 range. Just throwing that out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T14:12:46.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15402" CreationDate="2015-02-11T14:50:18.040" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does fuel shutoff means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched it up before, but the answer is not what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: The Ford Lighting's fuel shut off is at 5,400 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9395" LastEditorUserId="9395" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T22:56:08.223" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T22:56:08.223" Title="What Means Fuel Shut Off?" Tags="|ford|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15401" CreationDate="2015-02-11T15:19:07.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just another word for Rev limiter. It means that when you reach 4,400 RPM, the ECU starts to limit the amount of injected fuel and air, in order not to let the engine rev any further, because revving it any further may cause severe damage to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9404" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T15:19:07.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15405" CreationDate="2015-02-11T18:38:53.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dad owns a 2005 Ram SRT-10 Quad Cab.&#xA;The problem is when my dad trys to go over 100 MPH it doesn't let him.&#xA;And I know the Ram SRT-10 can go a lot faster than that.&#xA;In fact the Ram SRT-10 can reach speeds up to 155 MPH!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some other details you might need:&#xA;Engine: An 8.3 L V10&#xA;Horse Power: 740 HP&#xA;0-60: Around 3 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a modded Ram SRT-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9395" LastEditorUserId="9395" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T18:50:01.950" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T20:24:27.267" Title="Dodge Ram SRT-10 Problem" Tags="|engine|truck|viper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15404" CreationDate="2015-02-11T20:24:27.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feels like a governor of some sort.. has it already been chipped?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's reliably getting to EXACTLY the same speed and maintaining it, I'd start to suspect that it was designed to be limited to that. Is it actually hitting an RPM limit, or a MPH limit? (read: how many RPMs is it doing @96MPH?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a built-in MPH limit. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f150forum.com/f38/96mph-governor-29176/index7/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reference to a limit of 96MPH for the SRT-10&lt;/a&gt;, but not 100. Any chance it's actually 96? Beware, the ads on that forum is killing all of my other browser tabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that I'm reading says that you either need a &quot;hand tuner&quot;, or you need to send your ECU off to someone/take it into a shop and let them reprogram it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T20:24:27.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15338" CreationDate="2015-02-11T22:06:07.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I can't prove it (I haven't been able to reproduce the problem to confirm), I think I may have found the answer to my issue (thanks to Elias' comment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized recently that I only noticed that the issue had disappeared after I had installed a separate, unrelated, electrical system which required that I add a new fuse (I cheated and used one of those &quot;add-a-circuit&quot; fuse-splitter things). I grounded that circuit on the same bolt that the rest of the under dash fuse box is grounded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that the ground was bad there, and when I added the new circuit I tightened that bolt down and fixed the grounding problem. I don't have a circuit diagram in front of me to see if this is even remotely possible (eg. if the horn is actually grounded there), but since the problem disappeared and hasn't come back, and that's the only other work I've done, I'm currently assuming that it was a grounding issue on the under-dash fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3729" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T22:06:07.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T22:20:53.467" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my front brake pads less than a year ago. I now am having a steering wheel vibration when I brake and believe my rotors are warped. I checked my pads and they have a lot of pad left on them. Can I just change my rotors and still use my pads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9407" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:12:37.567" Title="Braking causes steering wheel vibration" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T23:14:02.473" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the tire or wheel (I'm not sure which one is doing the squeak ing) on Ram SRT-10 is squeaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my Dad keeps putting on the wheels this spray from autozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it really doesn't help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9395" LastEditorUserId="9395" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T23:34:58.460" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T23:34:58.460" Title="Dodge Ram SRT-10 Tires" Tags="|tires|truck|viper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:42:43.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15412" CreationDate="2015-02-12T07:49:13.437" Score="6" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda - 323 S V (BA) - 1.8 i 16V (114 Hp) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot;&gt;the data sheet for it says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fuel consumption (economy) - combined 7.9 l/100 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this calculated and under what driving conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T09:49:59.137" Title="How is &quot;Fuel consumption (economy) - combined&quot; Calculated?" Tags="|mazda|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T09:02:13.540" Score="4" ViewCount="3821" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiancé drove the car with no problems this morning. After work she realized she left an interior light on which killed the battery. She got a jump from a car and charged the battery up a bit. Now the Scion will not stay on after a couple seconds? I can't really diagnose the battery voltage and alternator if the car doesn't stay on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have my code scanner with me. The car starts perfectly then it just turns right off with no sputter. The car has never done this before. It literally stays on for 2 seconds and turns right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my knowledge it does seem to be a security feature. The car is mechanically in great condition. It also has a remote starter that works just fine. I checked the spare key to make sure it wasn't the chip inside the original key but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't anything on the dash indicating the problem except for the tire pressure sensor that has been on and I can't tell if the CEL is on or if the car doesn't stay on long enough for the light to turn off as to when you first start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9409" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T19:17:36.310" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T15:56:54.053" Title="'06 Scion Tc starts then shuts off in two seconds" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|security|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15409" CreationDate="2015-02-12T09:49:59.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an average of the figures for constant speed (highway) driving in top gear and city/traffic driving with lots of gear shifts. The ratio is usually 50/50 so they'll measure e.g. 100 miles of highway driving, then 100miles of city driving, add the figures together and divide by two to get the combined average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though to get those same figures, you're going to have to be niggardly with the accelerator pedal. I had a car with a claimed highway consumption figure of 8l/100km and 15l/100km city figure. I managed to improve those figures slightly, but I never went above 2000RPM and I coasted as much as possible and never sped up unless absolutely necessary. If I even momentarily had some fun with the car, the figures went up to 12l/100km and 22l/100km respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically the combined figures is the theoretical best figure you'll get if you drive like your grandmother. Though if you drive like a normal person, you can probably add about 20% onto the claimed figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T09:49:59.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15407" CreationDate="2015-02-12T10:12:37.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't re-use the pads - they will have worn into the shape of the damaged/misaligned discs, and so won't bed properly on new discs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:12:37.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T12:53:17.197" Score="4" ViewCount="2700" Body="&lt;p&gt;The passenger turn signal started flashing at twice the speed of the driver's side signal.  Initial research suggests a bulb is dead (or dying).  I changed the front bulb, but the issue still remains.  I then put on the hazards, which both blink at the same, regular speed.  Should I still be changing out bulbs, or is this now something with the flasher relay, or maybe the socket itself?  Anymore troubleshooting I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9412" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T13:29:09.897" Title="2008 Toyota Rav4 passenger turn signal flashing rapidly, hazards normal" Tags="|turn-signal|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2015-02-12T13:20:26.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well most of the car owners prefer alloy wheels because they offer both cosmetic and performance. However, I think alloy and steel both have their own significant points. Quality of an alloy wheels depends on the amount of Nickel added with aluminum in its making, whereas steel wheels are known as “unsprung weight” as they are not cushioned by suspension springs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let’s discuss the points that you have asked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alloy wheels are actually made to overcome the drawbacks of steel. Alloy metal is lighter than steel that’s why provides you ease on steering the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alloys wheels get bend easily via road impact in comparison of steel. However steel wheels are easily repairable if damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both the wheels have effects of salt and winter, but alloy wheels are slight better in resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, alloy wheels are highly preferable because of its long lasting capacity and shining, but I think both are good as per the buyer’s budget and taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9413" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T16:39:07.393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:39:07.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15414" CreationDate="2015-02-12T13:29:09.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can almost guarantee with the blinker going fast one of the bulbs are out. This might include any of the small bulbs which are side markers as well as the main lights which are front/rear. Look around the &quot;good&quot; side of the vehicle with the blinkers on to figure out where the small bulb might be, then look to see if it is flashing on the other side. Easiest way I know of to find the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the hazard flasher is a separate circuit from the blinkers, so this is why it still flashes the same on both sides during operation. A bulb out will not affect the speed at which it blinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T13:29:09.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T15:45:51.940" Score="2" ViewCount="23936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having this peculiar problem. There is an engine oil leak from my 160 cc motorcycle. The thing is that, I got the engine oil changed couple of days back, by a nearby mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the problem is that, &lt;strong&gt;the engine oil leaks from the oil drain plug, only when my motorcycle is on the side stand. There is no leak whatsoever when the vehicle is parked using the center stand&lt;/strong&gt;. The same mechanic says he doesn't know what the reason is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know why this is happening?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stay very, very far from any decent, professional mechanics. So I wanted to know if there is a local fix to the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, it's not the chain oil leak, or the leak from the sprocket. I've thoroughly checked it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9415" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T06:18:06.287" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T05:09:42.223" Title="Engine oil leak from motorcycle" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil-leak|small-engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T17:08:05.230" Score="4" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;My clutch pedal on my 2005 Toyota Corolla will not move. I can start the car by pressing the clutch safety switch by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can put my transmission into gear with the engine running, so the clutch must be stuck in the disengaged position. So there is something wrong with my hydraulic clutch system but I have no idea what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9417" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T03:24:03.393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T23:40:01.680" Title="Clutch is stuck disengaged and pedal will not move" Tags="|toyota|clutch|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2997" CreationDate="2015-02-12T19:28:56.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no one's mentioned it, try replacing the PCV valve.  You probably have more fuel blowby in a higher mileage car since the rings are probably more worn, and it's the PCV valve which let's that fuel and vapours be recycled and reburned by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/076459902X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Auto Repair For Dummies&lt;/a&gt; pg. 142&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The PCV valve is part of the positive crankcase ventilation system, which reroutes unburned gases, or blow-by, from the crankcase to the intake manifold and back to the engine, where they can be reburned in the cylinders.  This process cuts the amount of pollution released into the environment. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It also increases fuel economy because unburned fuel in the blow-by is consumed the second time around.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://whatsyourmpg.blogspot.co.il/2011/01/pcv-valve-positive-crankcase.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://whatsyourmpg.blogspot.co.il/2011/01/pcv-valve-positive-crankcase.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A PCV valve that is not working properly will steadily decrease your gas mileage and destroy the engine itself if it is neglected. PCV valves should be replaced or checked every 30,000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mpgenhance.com/pcv_valve_fuel_economy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mpgenhance.com/pcv_valve_fuel_economy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In today’s heavily computer controlled and adjusted vehicles a malfunctioning PCV valve can cause non optimal tuning characteristics via your engine’s management system that can contribute to reduced power and reduced fuel economy. Thus it is very important to check you PCV valve and replace it on a high mileage vehicle as it is often ignored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T10:59:36.177" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T10:59:36.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2015-02-12T19:57:56.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The windshield could have a bad depression spot in some area. Check with a metal straight ruler and try to pass a piece of paper under. A Sure Wipe spring added to the wiper arm will increase the pressure on the wiper and will improve the situation but if the depression on the windshield is too pronounced, it will only reduce it.                                   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9420" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T19:57:56.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2015-02-12T20:01:16.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add an add-on wiper arm spring to the arm to increase the pressure on the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9420" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T20:01:16.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2015-02-12T20:12:07.343" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original spring in the wiper arm is already stretched to the limit of elasticity of the  steel in order to apply a pressure on the wiper. By lifting the wiper arm, you have to over stretch this inner spring which will weaken it. It will therefore put a reduced pressure on the blade and give a bad cleaning of the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9420" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T18:53:22.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T18:53:22.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21190" CreationDate="2015-02-12T20:57:04.350" Score="11" ViewCount="14065" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's some idiot stealing similar cars to mine -- mid to late 90s Subarus -- in this part of town. The police are pretty confident that he has a jiggle key (the cars have been mostly recovered, dumped but unharmed; apparently he's just using them to drive around for a while).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to do something that will make my car annoying enough to start that if he picks it out, he'll likely give up in a few minutes. A poor man's starter interrupt, in other words. Something I can disconnect when I park and then reconnect when I'm ready to go again. I'm looking into it for the future, but at the moment, I'm not going to buy and install any relays, or a real SIS system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind spending a couple of minutes each trip with a wrench if I have to. I'd really rather not disconnect the battery and reset my ECU every time (plus that's a bit obvious). I'd also rather not pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, because that seems like a recipe for coming back to a dead battery should the car be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a manual transmission -- hydraulic clutch -- and I've been trying to come up with something sneaky that would prevent it from disengaging, or more likely using the clutch interlock switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an electronic ignition, not a distributor, so as far as I know moving those wires around won't prevent starting, just screw up my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good option for non-obviously disabling the car that I've missed here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2022-11-25T05:51:51.010" Title="The poor man's Start Interrupt Switch -- non-obvious way to disable starting" Tags="|starting|subaru|security|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15427" CreationDate="2015-02-12T22:17:43.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day while I was searching for information on electronic relays, I ran across this solution to your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kaPj.png&quot; alt=&quot;pulled from 12vplanet.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found it on this site.&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the write up which goes along with it, which I find pretty cool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a clever little circuit involving two relays and a momentary switch and is more a of a 'logic' circuit than one used to switch a high current with a low current. Once the ignition key is in the IGN position, you press and release the momentary switch and then turn the key to the START position and fire the engine as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The button press momentarily energises the coil of Relay 1 which allows +12V out of terminal 87 and into terminal 86. This has the effect of keeping the coil energised after the button is released (note that whilst the button is pressed there is 0V between terminals 86 and 87). Terminal 87 also sends power to the coil of Relay 2 which enables the starter motor solenoid connection, ready for when the key is turned to the START position. When the ignition is turned off the power to the coil of Relay 1 is cut which cuts the power to the coil in Relay 2 and breaks the starter motor solenoid circuit, so the engine cannot be started again without going through the above routine. The momentary switch can be mounted out of sight and acts a simple starter inhibit security device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what is connected to the different posts on the relays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RELAY 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 86 - From one side of momentary switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 85 - Connect to a suitable earthing point on the vehicle&#xA;chassis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 30 - From +12V ignition switch IGN position. This supply&#xA;also feeds the other side of the momentary switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 87 - To terminal 86 and Relay 2 terminal 86.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RELAY 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 86 - From Relay 1 terminal 86.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 85 - Connect to a suitable earthing point on the vehicle&#xA;chassis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 30 - From +12V ignition switch START position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminal 87 - To starter motor solenoid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could work the momentary switch one of two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can hide it the best you can. If you take this approach, it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; needs to be out of the way. Someplace you can find it, but not somewhere which is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way to deal with it is to put it out in the open ... completely in the open. If you make it look like a NO2 switch, it would easily fool a would be thief. If it was incorporated into a gear shift or some other out in the open means, it would totally confuse and confound the perp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide to do ... DON'T TELL ANYONE. I am even saying to the point if you use this method, don't even check it as the answer. You need this to be as private as possible so the would be vehicle assassin will not have an inkling of what you have done to disable your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with whatever you do. I hope they never get your vehicle from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T22:17:43.277" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15520" CreationDate="2015-02-13T00:14:49.157" Score="5" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;potentially a difficult question here.  It's looking like I'm going to be moving out of state for a new job here in the next few months, which is throwing a big wrench into projects I have going on.  For one, my Scout II.  I recently had the engine rebuilt and remounted, but all the ancillary stuff, like radiator hoses, wiring, etc, has to be either redone or rehooked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is a basic set up, nothing particularly difficult, and the majority of work has been finished.  I'm considering paying someone to finish it off for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reinstalling the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reinstalling the heater and core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installing a newer, better alternator (I already have this, but a mount would need to be made, and wiring beefed up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag link replaced (old one is bent and unsalvageable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some wiring redone in the engine bay, as I had to cut it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New speedo cable made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all in the engine bay, nothing else really needs attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that gives you an idea of what needs to be done-it's all stuff like that-nothing particularly herculean, save for the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to have a shop do this, what kind of time would I be looking at?  How much would I roughly be spending?  I'm trying to have someone do it so I have a car when I move, instead of buying a beater and pouring money into that.  I am already &lt;strong&gt;greatly&lt;/strong&gt; familiar with how unpredictable these things go, and appreciate any information.  I was also given two different shop rates, one at 75.00, and another at 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find out more here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://localmotors.com/Ellocomotive/howitzer-make-the-hurt-feel-good/&quot;&gt;https://localmotors.com/Ellocomotive/howitzer-make-the-hurt-feel-good/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting ripped off once, I feel very confident in who I'll decide to do business with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T03:44:52.640" Title="How much to get an old restomod running?" Tags="|diesel|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T04:40:10.777" Score="3" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: 2003 Ford Taurus SE, middle of a very harsh winter here in New England (We've had 100 inches of snow so far this season).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Today when driving to work I noticed that there seemed to be some type of scraping noise coming from I believe the front right wheel region. It sounded a lot like my mudguards/splashguards whatever you call them, and I figured maybe a lot of ice had built up on them and they were bogged down and lowered, thus hitting the road more easily. However when I arrived at my destination they seemed fine. Everything from what I saw looked fine. It seems like it won't make the noise on a bump but rather like a noise that is a sudden uphill or downhill if you can somewhat understand what I mean. It's not making this noise when turning and it's not making a constant noise. It just sounds like something is scraping against the ground but when I looked under my car with a flashlight nothing seemed extra low to the ground. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9426" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T04:40:10.777" Title="Scraping Noise from front right wheel on bumpy roads" Tags="|ford|noise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T05:53:38.473" Score="0" ViewCount="4735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got1991 caddy press pedal to floor won't pickup speed engine dies out  what's the problem could it be my fuel injectors fuel pump will not accelerate no leaks transmission good no smoke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1991 Cadillac STS 4.9 you need an engine no smoke coming out to tail pipes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9427" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T14:31:29.130" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T15:57:36.240" Title="Won't pickup speed" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T08:40:31.113" Score="1" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to change bend pipe and exhaust on my Royal Enfield Electra 5 speed 350 CC bike, it has old engine (NOT UCE). To my knowledge there are too many options like. Free flow mufflers, short bottle mufflers, megaphone etc. But I am nit very sure which one will produce the Royal Enfield sound and will have no effect on engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9430" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T14:57:51.720" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T14:57:51.720" Title="Changing Exhaust on Royal Enfield" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|enfield-bullet|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-23T17:03:21.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15437" CreationDate="2015-02-13T09:21:34.853" Score="4" ViewCount="3112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week end, I rented a car, fairly new car (probably 1 year old).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way to give it back, 20 minutes before arriving, the gearbox just broke. I couldn't accelerate etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the week end, I did maybe 300 km, and although my driving is not the best, I highly doubt I'm the only responsible for that gearbox issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage told the company that it was negligence so I have to fully pay the repair, which is damn expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure on what to do to be honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the company and they told me it was likely that the car was checked 2000 miles before I took it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question has probably more a legal perspective but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is it possible to destroy a gearbox by driving 300 Km, without any completely fancy uses? The guy from the company told me that it was because I wasn't doing the right thing during traffic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Do you know of any way to prevent me from paying the full price for it? I mean, I doubt I'm responsible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It is a manual gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the clutch burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9431" LastEditorUserId="9431" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T12:50:58.820" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T13:40:45.773" Title="Rental car gearbox broke down" Tags="|transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2015-02-13T09:50:28.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One. Dont jump on it. You risk stripping the lug and stud then you can't remove the tire and Have to replace the stud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two. Never supposed to use grease, silicon, or wd40 on tire lugs or studs. The stud remains lubricated and the lug can work itself loose when driving after having the tire changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need to not overtighten them in the first place. Some shops do this. And have a good tire iron with leverage. Apply firm gradual torque, not sudden aggressive torque like jumping on it or hitting with a hammer.  These things can cause more harm than good and people that read this and follow this advice will be stranded on the side of some highway after stripping the lug or stud.&#xA;my $.02&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9432" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T09:50:28.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15427" CreationDate="2015-02-13T10:06:07.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want a no-install option, and even @paulster2 answer seems like work then why not use old school locks like gear/steering locks? Or better, this - &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3xd3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wheel Lock&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T10:06:07.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2015-02-13T11:15:11.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know rental companies have insurance that covers this sort of thing. This may be a good time to contact a lawyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't break a gearbox by doing the wrong thing in traffic. You would destroy the clutch first. The only ways to destroy a gearbox is by running it without oil (not your responsibility because it's a rental) or popping the clutch and making the wheels spin (especially if it's a 4WD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, get a lawyer. And be honest with him. He's on your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Since you now indicate the clutch had burnt, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; your fault. A clutch will burn if you don't release the pedal completely or you use it in lieu of the parking brake while waiting on an incline. You may still be lucky and find that the rental company is covered for such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T13:40:45.773" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T13:40:45.773" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2015-02-13T11:34:56.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not knowing what type of car it is, how many miles were on the car, or even whether it's a manual or automatic (assuming automatic), this is all I have for you ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To easy your mind a little, any single 300km stint is not going to cause a transmission to go bad. The problem is, the transmission chose &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; 300km stint to break. This, in essence, leaves you holding the bag, as they say. It happened on your watch, so they are wanting to make you pay for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to think about here is &lt;em&gt;who&lt;/em&gt; is saying you're liable? Is it the owner of the rental car and nobody else? This would sound suspect to me. There is no way he could &lt;em&gt;prove&lt;/em&gt; you were negligent in your driving, which caused the issue. He is &lt;em&gt;assuming&lt;/em&gt; you are at fault because it happened while you were renting the vehicle. The easiest and cheapest thing to do is to place the blame completely on your shoulders. He's wanting you to bight on this and you to pay all of the repair costs. It's the easiest way for him to go about it and the easiest way to recoup the funds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some approaches you could use to mitigate some, if not all, of the cost, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, reread your rental agreement. It may be plainly obvious in the agreement who is responsible for vehicle breakdown. This is quite different than &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; to the vehicle. Damage is intentional. The owner needs to prove you are the cause of the breakdown for it to become intentional damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second off, as @JuannStrauss has stated ... &lt;strong&gt;GET A LAWYER&lt;/strong&gt; (barrister, attorney, whatever you want to call it where you are at.) Sometimes just getting a lawyer to drop the company a letter stating they are on the job is enough to get a company to cease and desist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the make/model/year/mileage of the vehicle, it could very possibly still be under warranty from the vehicle manufacturer. If so, the manufacturer could replace it under that warranty, letting you off the hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a second opinion. Have &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; mechanic take a look at the transmission and see what's going on. Things like burnt transmission fluid, lack of transmission fluid, leaks, etc., would tell a mechanic that this has been an ongoing problem ... something the owner should have been taking care of in the first place. If your mechanic can tell you that, I would sue the owner of the car for leaving you stranded and for lost time due to negligence. (This may be an approach you would want to take anyway ... ask the lawyer. I t would depend on the rental agreement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, get a bat and break the dudes knee caps. While this will ultimately end you in jail, it will most likely make you feel better and the guy will think twice about doing something like this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the last suggesting is a joke ... please don't land yourself in jail. All-in-all, I doubt you are responsible either. It is my approximation you are not to blame. I think there are ways around this quite easily ... but first of all, get the lawyer. He'll help immensely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T11:34:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15431" CreationDate="2015-02-13T15:57:36.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the lack of information in your post, the only thing I can surmise is your catalytic converter is plugged. With the age of your vehicle and the notice that it will not &quot;pick up speed&quot;, this is the only thing which is coming to mind. Several things you can check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine idles just fine while the vehicle is in park, but when you rev it up, it will only get to say 2000-2500 rpm, then it sounds like it's just struggling to gain any more RPM, this could be the cat. Since you said the vehicle is not gaining speed no matter how hard you press the accelerator, this is another indication (basically the same thing, one is with a load, the other is not). Another thing to try is to wait until dark, then start the engine and let it idle until warm, then rev the engine as much as it will go, then have someone notice the exhaust manifolds. If while revving the engine they turn dull to cherry red, you are probably looking at the cat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when plugged, the cat can still pass enough exhaust through it to allow the engine to run (most of the time). It just will not pass enough exhaust to allow it to run much higher than idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T15:57:36.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34885" CreationDate="2015-02-13T19:50:50.233" Score="5" ViewCount="3515" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Scion TC automatic transmission never actually goes into D (drive), but goes right into 3 even though the gear shift lever is in the D position. The P R N D 3 2 L  indicator on the dashboard has the 3 illuminated when the actual gear shift lever is in either D or 3 position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed after driving the car, it really is in 3 and not D -- the RPMs run a bit higher than expected and shifting between 3 and D have no effect. It always stays in 3. All the other gears work fine. It is only the D position that reverts to 3. I jiggled the shifter quite a bit between D and 3 positions and could never get it into D. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a transmission problem or some type of simple switch problem with the gear shifter? The D and 3 are very close to each other (you simple move the shift lever horizontal less than an inch to go from D to 3 -- see pic below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the gear shift lever connected to the transmission? Is it a physical cable or are there electronic switches in the shift lever that go to the computer? I’m going to take the gear shift apart this weekend to investigate further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Lxir.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Lxir.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scion TC Automatic Gear Shift&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9435" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T14:43:45.020" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T23:29:42.480" Title="2005 Scion TC Automatic Skips Drive and goes to 3rd" Tags="|automatic-transmission|scion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T20:18:23.693" Score="2" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is going dead on my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm trying to find the problem with my multimeter. So far I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taken off the negative battery terminal and connected my meter between the battery and the ground cable. I found a drain current of 2.5 amp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I started pulling fuses, one by one, and the current dropped to 1.5 amp when I removed the radio fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After removing all of the fuses, the current is still 1.5 amp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm stumped. Where do I look next? Are there components that could be draining my battery that don't go through the fuse panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9436" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T23:07:15.157" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T23:17:07.580" Title="Constant power drain, even with all the fuses pulled" Tags="|electrical|jeep|grand-cherokee|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15445" CreationDate="2015-02-13T21:13:26.733" Score="7" ViewCount="114474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly what is going on with my vehicle ('98 Wrangler, 4.0L), but it's pretty obvious something is wrong.  I think I might have had some minor coolant leaking after the past few times I've driven the vehicle.  I think I ignored it because I figured it was just water (e.g. like the fluid that comes out when you run the A/C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, like I said, it's pretty obvious something is very wrong.  List last time I drove the jeep, I heard the dripping as soon as I got out of the vehicle.  It proceeded to dump its coolant entirely within five minutes or so of stopping the engine.  I don't believe it was leaking while I was driving.  Now, the entire coolant reservoir is empty, and presumably, the actual radiator as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts as to what is wrong?  I mainly want to know what to start researching with regard to fixing the problem myself or getting quotes from nearby shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/ZEWQUDh45rs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/ZEWQUDh45rs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0FH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6256" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T22:37:28.500" Title="Coolant/antifreeze leaking out of engine block (See photo/video)" Tags="|engine|radiator|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15444" CreationDate="2015-02-13T21:48:47.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appears to be coming from the front and the center of the engine. I could be a hose near the water pump. The water pump itself may have failed. Most water pumps have a weep hole that drips when the seals fail. It is on the bottom of the pimp and difficult to see. You may be able to feel it by reaching under the pump, it is a small hole about half the diameter of a pencil. Finding the exact source is determined with a pressurized tester. It is a small hand pump that pressurizes the system and forces the coolant out at the leak point. You may be able to get a loaner from a big box auto parts store. It is used with a cold system and the engine off so you can reach in with your hand to find the drip. Filling the system with water for the test makes it cheaper and cleaner (no toxic,expensive antifreeze leaking on the ground). How ever if it is below freezing in your location water presents its own challenges. After the leak is found and the repair made the water must be drained and the system filled with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T22:15:01.657" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T22:15:01.657" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2015-02-14T08:20:40.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an O2 sensor goes bad the ecu knows it and ignors it so only enextended driving period may cause the plugs to foul but certainley not in the short run . While on the other hand your injectors get + all the time from a common wire and the injections come from - that pulsates from the ecu each injector with its own wire . If these wires are shorted &#xA;together or to ground (-) the injector (s) may be continuously open causing large amounts of fuel to flow into the affected cylenders and cause one side of the motor to foul while the other side works fine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9437" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T08:20:40.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T10:32:57.190" Score="5" ViewCount="31123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a hurry to leave for the office yesterday and forgot that my handbrake was engaged while starting. I started the engine, clutched, and reverse geared, and found the vehicle not moving backwards. I quickly depressed the clutch and retried. After these two attempts, I realized my error of not disengaging the handbrake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't step on the gas in the process of trying to move. I want to know if I have done any damage to my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9439" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:24:43.173" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:24:43.173" Title="Did I damage my car by trying to move in reverse with the handbrake on?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|handbrake|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2015-02-14T11:34:09.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No significant damage has been done. There are two potential areas that can be damaged by extended driving with the park brake on. The park brake shoes/pads will wear prematurely if the vehicle is driven with the brake engaged. The clutch will also suffer some wear as the brake being on will require slipping/riding the clutch on every start. In your case you caused no more wear than would occur by starting on a hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T11:34:09.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15442" CreationDate="2015-02-14T12:29:58.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be an issue with either of the elements you are talking about (shifter/transmission). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if the shifter isn't giving the transmission the right command to go into drive, the transmission will stay in 3rd gear. This could be caused from linkage malfunction or an electronic malfunction, depending on how the shifter is setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, there could be an internal issue with the transmission. Usually, servos are actuated which causes the &quot;gear change&quot; (servos cause bands to lock down on planetaries which in effect changes the ratio at which the final drive sees). If a servo is out, it might not allow your vehicle to change gears as you'd be expecting. If a servo is out, though, I would suspect you'd have a Check Engine Light (CEL) on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is a 4-speed automatic setup. Where your &quot;D&quot; is at, it's most commonly an over drive (normal drive being 1:1 ratio ... car companies utilize this to decrease engine RPM at speed, thus gaining fuel mileage in the process). I'm not able to find the spec on the tC, but the xB's is 3rd=1:1 and 4th=1:0.70 ratios. I can venture to assume the tC is the same as the xB of the same year (later years have 6-speed transmissions). Anyway, some times, the transmission will not be allowed to shift into O/D (your &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt;) because of some other issue going on with the car. This would suggest there would be a CEL associated with it as well. Even if no dashboard CEL is illuminated, there might be something saved in the computer which would let you know what is going on. I would suggest you have the codes read if you don't find anything wrong with the shifter. This may give you some insight as to what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T12:29:58.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:19:39.083" Score="1" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car AC was working perfectly and today i took the car (Honda City 2000)for oil change and car wash. The man has blow the air and wash the engine as well. After that my car AC is not working. Please guide me about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9444" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T17:19:39.083" Title="Car AC is not working" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-02-16T11:48:15.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:20:36.970" Score="3" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;the Renault/Dacia Logan 2014 and above have indicators like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEBZN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the dial at the right has the total mileage and the fuel indicator only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is an indicator for the engine temperature? I've looked through the car manual and found nothing about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does it exist? and if yes how can I program the computer to show it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9443" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T17:20:36.970" Title="Renault/Dacia Logan 2014+ engine temperature indicator?" Tags="|engine|coolant|renault|computer|indicators|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T18:27:55.573" Score="3" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;My caravan began ticking when accelerating yesterday. It ticks fairly loudly when accelerating and much softer and slower when idle, or slowing down. Ticks slow and steady when idle or in park. Does not start until I reach the highway usually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;History&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well over 200,000 miles. Had a new transmission installed a month or two ago but didn't even need it turned out to be a speed sensor but thats a whole different clusterfu*k. Has plenty of coolant, actually coolant never seems to lower always super full. Oil is hard to read, i'm not used to the oil stick on this van it's new to me. One of those bent up ones. I feel like I never get accurate reads. However I top off oil every so often because my wife drives it a half hour every day for work. She told me of the noise yesterday, I topped off half a quart today, no change. I saw today it was dripping oil slowly. Normal black color not the biggest puddle ever. We also just drove from Denver, CO to Salem, OR in the van. But no issues like this until yesterday. Please any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9445" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:00:11.677" Title="Ticking/clicking when accelerating 1997 Dodge Caravan" Tags="|engine|oil|dodge|noise|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2015-02-15T18:50:48.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to know if I have done any damage to my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you're fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this question, a user asked if driving 1000 meters with the handbrake on had caused permanent damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/8960/57&quot;&gt;I drove with the handbrake on for 1000 metres&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our assessment then was that that driver had probably caused plenty of wear to the handbrake but not damage.  Since you barely moved, you're almost certainly perfectly fine (if a bit embarrassed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T18:50:48.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-15T19:00:28.290" Score="3" ViewCount="1647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work on several makes and models, and found that after replacing brake pads that the &quot;low tire pressure&quot; warning comes on as a sensor fault. Is there something I'm hitting that causes this? How can I prevent the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:29:45.297" Title="Tire pressure sensor doesn't read" Tags="|brakes|sensor|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2015-02-16T11:01:32.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it's cheaper to produce. And that may not be so bad since it's cheaper for you as well, to maintain at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also smaller in dia (not width necessarily) for the same braking force when compared to discs. This is due to the fact that the entire surface of the brake pads press against (and at) the circumference (in an axial direction). If you have alloy wheels and brakes are visible, then they might look a tad bit tiny compared to a similar class car employing disc brakes. So , if you're looking for street creds.. painting them red may not really..   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the pads press against the drum shoe in an axial direction, they have a tendency to stick on/force the pads into full contact. This effect reduces the need for brake assist mechanisms, especially on smaller cars where it can be done away with (again, a plus for the manufacturer). Consequently, this effect, which affects the response time, could possibly be one reason why their use with ABS and similar systems is rare.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drum brakes do not dissipate heat as well as disc brakes (open and exposed) which quite simply is its biggest disadvantage over disc brakes. This precludes its use from performance applications, though, there are exceptions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers have pointed out, this may not necessarily effect you in emergency braking situations as most of the weight shifts towards the front of the vehicle and hence most of the braking is done by the front brakes (discs in your case). This, of course is assuming that the car is pointed in the direction of travel. High speed pursuits/get-aways in reverse gear might require a different setup (fast and the furious. anyone?)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clarifications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drum brakes do, in fact, have &lt;strong&gt;more moving parts&lt;/strong&gt; than disc brakes, and do have a more complicated mechanism&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can be adapted easily for mechanical/cable linkages , making their use popular for parking/emergency brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T17:31:25.260" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:31:25.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15467" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:55:07.997" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question - do you have any idea about potential&#xA;power level of 132 kW (180 HP), 700 Nm MAN truck (TGL)&#xA;4.5 litre engine with damaged (not working) turbo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it accelerate to 55 km/h with full load (8 tonnes)&#xA;smoothly without any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra question: when a turbo charger in such diesel engine&#xA;breaks down, does it break down suddenly or gradually&#xA;with power levels fluctuating (ie. halting the engine,&#xA;then reving it to 4000, then halting again with enormous&#xA;level of dull smoke going out of engine / exhaust)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9461" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:29:34.233" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:29:34.233" Title="Turbo gain level" Tags="|engine|turbocharger|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:13:03.687" Score="6" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teslamotors.com/models&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.teslamotors.com/models&lt;/a&gt; if we scroll down we see the several flavors Tesla sells its Model S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It puzzles me why the 85 version has a shorter range than the 85D. The first can run 265 miles, the second 270. Given that in the former the battery has to feed only one motor and in latter it has to feed two, why the first has a more limited ride distance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" LastEditorUserId="31762" LastEditDate="2017-08-21T09:40:14.777" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T09:40:14.777" Title="Why does the dual motor Tesla have more range?" Tags="|battery|car|power|awd|tesla|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:41:02.053" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says right on the webpage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Conventional all-wheel drive cars employ complex mechanical linkages to distribute power from a single engine to all four wheels. This sacrifices efficiency in favor of all weather traction. In contrast, &lt;strong&gt;each Model S motor is lighter, smaller and more efficient than its rear wheel drive counterpart, providing both improved range and faster acceleration&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:41:02.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15463" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:26:25.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea about potential power level of 132 kW (180 HP), 700 Nm MAN truck (TGL) 4.5 litre engine with damaged (not working) turbo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, for every atmosphere's worth of boost, you'll double the amount of power the amount the engine puts out naturally aspirated. For instance, if an engine puts out 100hp naturally aspirated, the same engine should be able to put out 200hp if you boosted it to ~14psi (air pressure at sea level is somewhere around &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure#Standard_atmosphere&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;14.7 psi&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This is considered a rule of thumb and does not equate &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; to the real world. You also have to figure in parasitical drains and other factors when computing these numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, if you lost the turbo on such a truck engine, you can assume the engine is losing major amounts of power/torque due to the loss of turbo pressure. Production diesel engines usually run in the neighborhood of 15 to 30 psi of boost, though I cannot find an advertised amount for this engine. Even at 15 psi, you can assume a loss of at least 1/2 of the power production, which would put it down to the 90 HP range and the torque down from around 572 ft lbs down to 286 ft lbs (guessing a 3000 peak torque range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it accelerate to 55 km/h with full load (8 tonnes) smoothly without any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that it's torque which is more important to trucks. Losing 1/2 of the available torque will make it &lt;em&gt;very difficult&lt;/em&gt; for the truck to accelerate to any given speed. The truck will take twice as long to accelerate than normal, if it will ever get to speed at all. 55 kph is not very fast in the scheme of things, but even so, &lt;strong&gt;you will have problems getting up to that speed, let alone doing it smoothly&lt;/strong&gt;. You are not doing your engine or truck any good by trying to run it at this diminished level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a turbo charger in such diesel engine breaks down, does it break down suddenly or gradually with power levels fluctuating (ie. halting the engine, then revving it to 4000, then halting again with enormous level of dull smoke going out of engine / exhaust)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typical of how a diesel engine runs when the turbo goes out, especially the voluminous amounts of black (sooty) smoke. The reason for the smoke is, the engine is not taking in as much air as it normally would, but is getting the same amounts of diesel. Not all of the diesel gets burned, so it comes out in the exhaust as soot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T20:52:35.140" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T20:52:35.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:58:14.253" Score="1" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I pop off the side panel of the font seat, because it is stuck forward and won't move? 2003 Toyota Camry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the seat to go back so I can drive it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9463" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T22:47:49.117" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T22:47:49.117" Title="Toyota camry 2003 front seat stuck forward" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:52:44.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15501" CreationDate="2015-02-16T22:00:07.967" Score="4" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 BMW 318is started making a whirring noise that varies with engine speed, and an electrical burning smell after driving, and the battery goes flat very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the current draw with everything off and no key in, and it is constantly around 3.5 Amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried removing every fuse and relay from under the bonnet, then every fuse, module and relay I could find inside the car. Nothing stopped the current draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then removed the power lead to the starter motor/alternator/unloader relay and the current draw stopped. (There is not good access to the starter itself so I wasn't able to just disconnect the starter on its own.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is the starter solenoid is always energised so is drawing the current, and that could cause the whirring noise as the starter might be permanently spinning with the engine. The burning smell could be because the starter is not designed to spin at driving engine speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely? What would cause the solenoid to be permanently energised even with no key in the car? Could it be the starter motor itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested the unloader relay but I have no idea where it is... I may have already disconnected it. Could it be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be safe to drive the car 5 minutes to a garage if I keep the engine speeds as low as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I was able to disconnect the big red wire on the back of the alternator only, and the current draw stopped. Does this mean the alternator is the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9465" LastEditorUserId="9465" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T08:03:27.523" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T08:44:47.903" Title="1998 BMW 318is excessive current draw - possible starter issue" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|starter|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14805" CreationDate="2015-02-16T22:19:19.930" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, a month later I figured it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what finally worked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete all duplicate audio devices in the Bluetooth menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pair the phone using the &lt;em&gt;hands-free system&lt;/em&gt; via the steering wheel &quot;off hook&quot; button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems arbitrary but it solved my problem.&#xA;See the owner's manual page 5-38 for the exact procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start pairing using the the radio controls you are pairing as Bluetooth Audio (page 5-33) and the car treats this differently. Puzzling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the base radio so I can't speak for the up-level radio that includes navigation, but it's something to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling using different terms to reflect what I now already know I found this link which contains a lot of people with similar problems and it also explains very well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4334614?start=15&amp;amp;tstart=0&quot;&gt;https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4334614?start=15&amp;amp;tstart=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T22:19:19.930" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T22:29:45.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero. I recently dropped money into it for maintenance, including brakes and a new battery. I have other issues with the car, but mostly I'm confused and my day gets disrupted with this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, it is a crank, but no start. I understand this to be (since I'm a car newbie, as far as internal workings) that the starter turns over and attempts to start the engine, but the engine fails to start. This first happened near a month ago, on a Saturday. I had it towed to my mechanic. Monday rolls around, and he says it started right up for him. He still ran it up and down the interstate, ran his testing equipment and could not find any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I have had a roommate of mine who knows more about cars than I suggest a passlock failure. I don't believe this to be the case. The security light doesn't remain on when it fails to start. Every now and then, when running, I get a service engine soon light that stays on, but according to the ODB2 Bluetooth adapter I have, it's catalyst efficiency being below threshold (I have had this issue since I bought it, this is not new and was told the catalytic converter needs replacing, but is not required). I reset the code and no new code pops up. During failure to start, no code in the ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've exhausted the options for passlock as much as I can without disabling the system all together, since I doubted that to be the problem. I can get information from the car via the Torque app and my Bluetooth ODB2 adapter, but I don't know what to look for. Foolishly grasping for information, I found out that in all likelihood my O2 sensor is working fine (Sensor 1 Bank 1 is a funky looking sine wave, Sensor 1 Bank 2 flatlines, suggesting my catalytic converter works for now, from what I researched), but I am guessing that o2 failures would not stop a car from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it warms up some, my roommate will look at the fuel filter to see if that's dirty, but I wanted to see if there is anything else I should be looking at? The car runs fine  if it starts up. I notice today that if I push the engine, while in park, to about 4000 RPM's, it loses RPM's then goes back up, and repeats that until I let go of the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? What is my mechanic and roommate missing? I'm open to all ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9466" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T00:30:26.417" Title="Intermitant Crank / No Start - 2002 Oldsmobile Alero" Tags="|oldsmobile|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2015-02-16T22:56:25.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, eliminate everything else of the final things you pulled prior to assuming it's the solenoid on the starter, but I think you are onto it with the starter. You would have all of these symptoms with a starter motor which is engaged all the time. I'd suggest you are going to end up replacing the starter anyway ... the drive to the mechanic if only a few miles away is not going to cause it any more damage than it has already experienced. At this point, if you are going to utilize the mechanic, I'd just drive it there directly and put it into their hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T22:56:25.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15472" CreationDate="2015-02-16T23:01:02.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking the problem may be your fuel pump. I've seen pumps behave the way you describe with it working on-again/off-again until it finally fails permanently. Plus, your descriptions of sustained higher RPM running with it going up and down could likely be pressure fluctuations coming from the pump. Luckily this is an easy thing to check if you have a fuel pressure gauge. There should be a Schreader valve (similar to a valve stem on a tire, but thicker) on your fuel rails near the fuel injectors which you can test it at. I don't know for sure, but would believe it should be in the 40-45psi range during normal operation (pretty standard pressure for that year of GM vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T23:01:02.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T23:36:30.437" Score="1" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do i open the area up to retrieve the tool &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it slid down into it through the opening under the drivers side windshield wiper then into this hallow area above the wheel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9467" LastEditorUserId="9467" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T23:53:56.160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T14:52:09.340" Title="Ford 2000 wind star , tool slid into hallow area above front driver side wheel" Tags="|ford|windstar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2015-02-16T23:40:35.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen similar symptoms with vehicles that have a semi-clogged fuel filter on gravity fed machines.  The blockage prevents full flow of the fuel.  The consumption of fuel driving at higher RPM's exceeds the fuel flow and the engine dies.  Once the fuel refills the carb float bowls the engine is able to start again.  Perhaps this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T23:40:35.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-17T01:24:04.160" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the Aerial on my car because the original one broke (car wash), the factory replacement is quite expensive, so I replaced it with a cheaper one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stereo itself seems to work fine, the CD player works, AM radio stations also work without any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is with the FM stations. The stereo can have normal sound output, but often gets quiet, sometimes goes mute when trying to listen to FM stations. This happens to all the stations at the same rate at the same time, so I'm struggling to believe its just a reception thing. The change in sound levels seems to be mostly random, the car can be sitting still and the sound levels will still change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens more often than not. I have read a lot about needing a good ground for the aerial to work, and wonder if this is part or all of the issue. I tried to ground it better, didn't make any difference, but might not have grounded properly either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VEHICLE SPECIFICATIONS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2001 Holden Commodore VX Berlina Series 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock Stereo (Eurovox, don't have the model)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMAGES &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbUkT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aerial&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO7mS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stereo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9468" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T19:17:27.007" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T11:56:36.483" Title="Sound fluctuation after Aerial replacement" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2732" CreationDate="2015-02-17T05:32:25.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the Toyota Service Bulletin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9471" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T05:32:25.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15497" CreationDate="2015-02-17T15:39:13.130" Score="6" ViewCount="6324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I've bought my 2004 Impreza Outback Sport, I've had a problem with shifting into 1st gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First gear is generally difficult to engage while moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can just force it, but it's really quite hard. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm stopped, or going really really slow, there's no shifting resistance at all. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No other gears have this problem. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem is not 100% consistent -- I'd say it happens 80%-90% of the time.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anecdotally, it seems to be less of a problem after I've been on the road a little while. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2246/manual-transmission-stuck-in-neutral&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, the problem might be about a gear synchronizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What might be wrong here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I further test what is the problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I fix or replace this part myself? How much harder will it be than what I've done before? (See my experience below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth fixing the specific broken/worn part, or should I replace an entire assembly of some kind? (e.g., clutch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you point me towards informational resources that could help me to fix this DIY?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience and tools: I have successfully replaced a rear strut assembly and two front axles without too much trouble. I have a floor jack and 2 stands at my disposal, plus a full ratchet set and torque wrench (20 to 150 ft/lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:21:44.310" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:21:44.310" Title="1st gear hard to engage unless stopped, Subaru 2004 Impreza Outback Sport" Tags="|clutch|subaru|gears|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15481" CreationDate="2015-02-17T16:05:41.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This possibly isn't worth fixing - I certainly wouldn't fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you shouldn't use 1st gear except for starting off from stationary. The synchro for 1st gear is different to the others for this very reason. What you probably have done is worn the synchroniser out through not matching revs accurately. If you absolutely must change into 1st while moving, then match revs (by heel-and-toeing) for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:05:41.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-17T17:41:13.703" Score="2" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I traveled home and back: about 140mi each way. About half way there the engine light came on, and, realizing it had been about 4500 miles since my last oil change, I added oil to the engine after arriving at my destination and confirming a low oil level. The car ran fine and the engine light did not turn on again until about half way back the other way. Unlike the first time, about 20 minutes after the engine light came on I noticed a lack of power at higher rpms and while driving uphill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I took it in to my mechanic to get a diagnosis. There were many, including a timing belt issue and an issue with the variable cam. He suggested starting with the cheapest solution first, and changed the oil and oil filter.  When I got the car back I asked him if there was anything in the oil he drained: there wasn't, but he mentioned something about it smoking slightly from the exhaust. On the trip home I noticed smoke from the exhaust (it was not slight) and the same lack of power. I thought the smoke had a blue tint, but this morning it just looked grey. The mechanic told me to drive it for a week and come back if it continued to smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no smoke from the engine compartment, and there was no smoke before the oil change. There are no dash lights on either. Also, the idle (and at all other rps) is smooth and it starts right up. Why would it have start smoking after an oil change and what would cause the lack of power? (not accompanied by smoke the first time around)  Should I take it to a Subaru dealer, or to someone else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: the car has 98500 miles, and the timing belt has not been changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9474" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T13:09:54.803" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T13:09:54.803" Title="2004 Subaru XT under powered and smoking after oil change" Tags="|engine|oil|subaru|exhaust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2015-02-17T17:55:04.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas. Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9477" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T17:55:04.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15485" CreationDate="2015-02-17T18:41:19.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the colour of the smoke that is produced from the exhaust it could be different sources, have you had a valve cover replacement done on the car? I've worked on some cars that have leaking valve covers where the spark plugs are located and this causes issues with oil seeping into the cylinders, which could be a source of smoke, and oil loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the last Subaru that I worked on, we had to change the valve cover gasket, intake gasket, various evap hoses (heat cycle destroyed), and a water pump. I would suggest looking into doing the work all at one time, because doing the timing on the car takes a serious amount of effort to get to, and you might be able to save money on the labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by looking for oil leaks, as well as trying to identify the source of the smoking, if you have a OBD2 reader, scan the car and see if anything is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best of luck! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9479" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:41:19.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15485" CreationDate="2015-02-17T18:45:40.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make no claim to be a Subaru expert but I have become aware of issues with the variable valve timing on GM vehicles. It seems some vehicles with this type of valve train are sensitive to oil viscosity. Oil that is too thick or to thin can result in poor performance. Is it possible that you added the wrong type of oil? If oil was induced into the exhaust system it could take several miles for the residue to burn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:45:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-17T19:16:57.893" Score="2" ViewCount="108103" Body="&lt;p&gt;my car drives fine but when i come to a stop light or any stop it acts like it will stall but never does. did some easy things like oil change. no check engine light is on but it seems to keep happening more and more. the rpms move when it feels like stalling.i am not sure what to do next or my next step to getting this resolved. i asked a few friends and non of them gave me the same answer so what do i do ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9480" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T23:35:05.583" Title="my car acts like its going to stall at a stop" Tags="|engine|transmission|nissan|car|stall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-17T20:55:45.653" Score="5" ViewCount="4365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon acceleration the following lights illuminate once the engine reaches 3000-4000 RPM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ls4zi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Lights&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A message; &quot;Engine Fault&quot; appears on the dash screen. Once this happens, the engine will no longer rev beyond the 3000-4000 RPM range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a few occasions this has also resulted in a steering assist fault, where the power steering cuts out, and usually this also causes the engine to idle, and will not rev at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following Ford Fiesta Model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0hQJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Fiesta Mk6 Diesel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various mechanics have looked into this issue and all come up with different theories on what might be causing the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty mass airflow sensor (this was replaced - no solution to faults)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty ECU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience of this issue, and what might be causing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T20:55:45.653" Title="Ford Fiesta Mk6 Diesel Engine Fault" Tags="|engine|electrical|ford|fuel-system|fiesta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-11-21T03:37:17.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15493" CreationDate="2015-02-17T21:53:49.453" Score="1" ViewCount="4115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having problems with a toyota corolla '95. When i turn the ignition it cranks and doesn't die out but it wont start. I tried jumping the car but it still will not start. &#xA;I have tried applying the gas pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible causes for this and how can i further diagnose the car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T02:41:47.840" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:41:47.840" Title="1995 Toyota Corolla cranks but wont start" Tags="|toyota|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15492" CreationDate="2015-02-18T00:05:50.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two big categories for cranks but failure to start  are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) no fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) no spark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to check for no fuel: a) out of gas, b)bad fuel pump, c) clogged fuel filter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to check for no spark: a) see if you have any spark...lots of websites and videos about this  b) bad pickup sensor in ignition system  c) bad timing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without personally looking at your car, I can't give you more specific advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T00:05:50.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T04:35:00.120" Score="2" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have accidentally lock my mercedes benz with my key in it. Can anyone help me with it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T04:35:00.120" Title="URGENT: How to unlock e230 mercedes benz model" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-02-19T12:29:23.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15489" CreationDate="2015-02-18T04:54:41.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your idle air control valve might be dirty. Try cleaning that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T04:54:41.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15481" CreationDate="2015-02-18T05:02:28.030" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming no one here answering has driven a Subaru manual transmission before or long enough. I'm fairly certain there is nothing wrong with your synchros or transmission. Subaru's are generally very hard to shift into first while in motion. I daily-drive a 2011 WRX and and the first gear has always been like that, even when it was brand new. I have driven various manual Impreza's over the years and they are all like that. This is just another Subaru quirk. If you need to downshift into first for some reason, heel toeing wouldn't really help either since you can't even move the shifter into first gear. You should instead try double clutching to downshift. This usually always does the trick. Changing out your manual transmission fluid also helps a bit too. If I recall correctly, Subaru recommends changing it every 30,000 miles. There really isn't any reason to downshift into first gear unless you have to climb a really steep hill and second gear isn't cutting it. Usually when I'm crawling really slowly in second I can shift into first gear without a problem. It's only at speed where it becomes difficult to downshift into first and honestly I don't think I have ever needed to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T13:16:55.423" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T13:16:55.423" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9809" CreationDate="2015-02-18T05:29:03.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screw is actually threaded into both parts.  If you cannot grab the remaining stub with a Vice grip or similar, get a set of Easy Outs (A tool specifically made for removing broken screws.  They cost less than ten bucks.) and do it that way.  Once the piece is out of the base the other half is an easy decision... If you can't get the half out of the antenna post, buy a new antenna post.   They can be had for two dollars on a dozen websites.  If you DO get both pieces out, any dealer will have the double ended screw stud in the parts department.  They'll probably give it to you for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9486" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T05:29:03.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2015-02-18T06:03:34.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are 100% fine. I don't think the people replying read that you didn't even step on the gas at all when trying to move. You didn't list what car you were driving but I seriously doubt your car would be able to generate that much toque to even cause any wear to your handbrake just by riding the clutch friction point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T06:03:34.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T08:16:57.537" Score="2" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the oil changed on my Kia Sedona 2006 about 8 weeks ago . After I left the repair shop the check engine light came on. They rest it but it came back on. I tried to DEQ my Sedona and it would not pass. I am told it is due to a vacuum leak! Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9487" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:48:15.570" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:48:15.570" Title="check engine light 2006 kia sedona" Tags="|cel|kia|sedona|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2015-02-18T08:44:47.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9465" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T08:44:47.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2015-02-18T11:16:21.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to a workshop and have it fixed. One of your induction pipes either cracked or came undone while they were busy. Although it's weird how an oil change can cause this. I wouldn't take my car back to the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T11:16:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15354" CreationDate="2015-02-18T12:49:17.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More then likely an idle air control valve thats failing, would replace and retest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:49:17.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5191" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:07:43.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Youtube. Seriously. There's a video covering just about any procedure you can do to your car. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA_19bHxEYg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's a video explaining how a (Toyota) twincam engine works&lt;/a&gt;. About a year ago when I wanted to replace the turbo on my Astra Coupe, I found a video show every single step in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get into auto repair as a complete novice, then start with the easy stuff like changing the oil, sparkplugs and coolant. Maybe swap out the coilpack, battery and air filter. Then you can move on to brakes and wheel bearings. First at the rear, then at the front. After that, you should have enough confidence to tackle the more serious things like installing fresh gaskets (stay away from the headgasket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you can probably start branching out into electronics, e.g. installing a new head unit, amp and speakers. Or figure out why the electric windows are/aren't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a video for all of this on youtube. Just search for &quot;replacing X thing on Y model&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T14:13:16.767" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T14:13:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15513" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:37:39.070" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been teaching my friend to drive stick on my Subaru 2004 Impreza Outback Sport, and the gas was a little sticky/crunchy, so it was hard to give just a little gas. It was either none, or a little too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a general automotive spray oil to lube the pedal, which didn't help, so I lubed the springed throttle mechanism under the hood where the cable from the pedal attaches (proper names for all of these things would be a nice bonus to an answer to my question -- what are all these parts called?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fixed the problem initially, but now that it's like, 0 degrees outside, I find the throttle even stickier. Not crunchy like it was before, but if I step on the gas, the rpms will stay high, even if I've let off the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem does seem to go away when the car is warmed up. So, Im thinking I used the wrong kind of oil, and it's seizing up in the cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommended fixes? Could I degrease and relube these parts in a better way? Maybe this is just a general problem with the cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T23:53:02.223" Title="I lubed a sticky throttle and now it's worse, but only in the cold" Tags="|subaru|throttle|lubrication|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T22:17:41.093" Score="3" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 60  Corvair and have never changed the Brake Fluid.   I am planning to flush out the old fluid and replace it.   What brake fluid should I replace it with.   Dot 2,3,or 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T22:54:52.423" Title="Brake fluid to be used on a 1960 Chevrolet Corvair" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15507" CreationDate="2015-02-18T22:54:52.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the master cylinder cap, but you should use either DOT3 or DOT4 fluid without issues (Valvoline has fluid which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/dot-3-4-brake-fluid/28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DOT3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/a&gt; ... this is to tell people you can use it for either application, though it will perform as DOT4). Stay away from DOT5 because it would no be compatible with your system (basically, anyway ... there are a plethora of reasons to stay away from it with an older car like yours). DOT2 will not provide the amount of brake fluid protection you'll need (I don't think you can even buy it anymore as brake fluid). It is actually castor oil based and will not give you the performance you'll need. Seeing as how the brake fluid has not been changed in forever, you'll want to do a thorough flushing of the system. Even when you think you have flushed it completely, flush it a little more. A power bleeder can be of great assistance here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T22:54:52.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T22:58:34.280" Score="7" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, I replaced a head gasket on a 1994 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L. After I put everything back together there were two parts left over. The car runs good considering it's 20 years old, however I'm assuming these were bracing parts; when the car gets above about 55mph or so, it shakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does the same when you rev the car in neutral, so it's nothing to do with the tires, and they were all replaced recently anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car shakes when it's cold, before it warms up, or if its been sitting awhile, so I suspect it's these two parts. It also loses speed quicker than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where it is that they go exactly. My assumption is on the passenger side within the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two pics of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANxod.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bl3aI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9491" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T06:31:00.517" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T17:19:32.380" Title="Leftover parts after head gasket change; are they engine mounts or braces?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|part-identification|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T23:17:40.353" Score="4" ViewCount="2962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2 stroked engine that sat for over 2 years. I drained the gas and can get it to turn over when I put starter fluid in the carb. it is blowing out a water substance from the muffler and cuts off after 5 seconds. Is this just the engine clearing he old gas or the sign of another issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9492" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:23:02.830" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:23:02.830" Title="Old gas in 2 cycle engine" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|gasoline|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12708" CreationDate="2015-02-19T01:34:10.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to cover up the seat or reupholster it then you might have some luck buying some leather patch repair kit like this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0058WXNOK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-Leather-Vinyl-Repair/dp/B0058WXNOK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1424309626&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=leather+seat+patch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T01:34:10.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15510" CreationDate="2015-02-19T02:28:45.787" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasoline sitting for two years in the float bowl of a carburetor will surely lead to some varnish.  The hydrocarbons evaporate from the fuel and oxygen acts as an oxidation catalyst changing the remaining components into other compounds leaving varnish in their wake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varnish will coat and clog the inside of the carburetor.  Float bowl, floats, needle and seat as well as any jets the were submerged in the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest at the very least you remove the carburetor from the motorcycle and take the float bowl off.  Get some carb cleaner with the little red straw/hose that you can use to spray into jets and and orifices of the carburetor.  Let it sit, do it again and use a bowl to capture the runoff.  You can let the carb sit in the bowl for a bit if there are trouble spots.  Use a toothbrush.  Get a thin piece of copper wire you can stick into any jets to ensure they are not clogged.  Those are your real trouble areas.  Take your time.  Be thorough or you will have to do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some extra carb cleaner you can spray it around inside your fuel tank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace your fuel filter.  They are cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike runs with starter fluid, you have compression and spark.  The last piece is fuel delivery.  Focus on that and you will be victorious.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous suggestion of a little more oil in the gas initially is good advice.  Your bottom end needs lubrication and if your start it without lubrication you can damage your offset journal and main journal bearings on your crank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T02:28:45.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15506" CreationDate="2015-02-19T02:35:46.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many lubricants that get 'gummy' with cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the following will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the motor idle and become warm.  if it takes 15 minutes or more, fine.  Just ensure the area you have an issue with is warm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the motor off. (safety first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a carb cleaner to spray off the oil you used to lubricate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procure a product with Molybdenum-disulfide.  It will work in any temperature.  It is a dry lubricant.  Various auto parts stores carry it.  It's ideal to lubricate the inside of cables.  It can be messy but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T23:53:02.223" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T23:53:02.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15516" CreationDate="2015-02-19T08:57:28.363" Score="4" ViewCount="37877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motor Oil University article&lt;/a&gt; on Bob the Oil Guy's websites that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The automotive designers usually call for their engines to run at 212°F ( 100°C ) oil and water temperature with an oil thickness of 10. ... &lt;em&gt;The engine is designed to run at 212°F at all external temperatures from Alaska to Florida.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a 82.5°C thermostat on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.mazda-club.eu/sub-model/mazda-323-familia-protege-iv-ba-bh-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323 BA 1.8L BP DOHC&lt;/a&gt;.  The radiator was replaced by the previous owner and is not OEM.  I'm using a premixed glycol-ethylene coolant rated between -10°C to 118°C which specifically says on the bottle not to add water.  The service manual calls for 65% water to 35% coolant in environments over -15°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After all those details, here's my question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hook up to the ECU, I find that most of the time the engine temperature stays between 85°C to 92°C.  Rarely, when standing in traffic for a long time, the temp will get up to 97°C, at which point the ECU turns on the fan and the temp rapidly returns to the previously mentioned range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?  If not, any idea's?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I haven't found anything regarding normal operating temps in the service manual, although that doesn't mean it's not there of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:16:52.820" Title="Engine's Normal Operating Temperature" Tags="|mazda|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15527" CreationDate="2015-02-19T09:08:38.463" Score="4" ViewCount="2457" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the coolant temp sensor hooked up to the ECU, I have a second, &lt;a href=&quot;http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/HEAT-GAUGE-UNIT-%28JE15%252d18%252d51X%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;single wire coolant temp sensor&lt;/a&gt; which is hooked up to the dashboard display.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the coolant temp is around 85C, right after the thermostat starts opening, the engine temp needle hooked up to this single wire sensor shows about half way up.  When the temp gets to around 95C to 97C the needle is maxed out at the top as if to indicate overheating, but this seems to me to be within normal operating temperature, &lt;em&gt;since the ECU only turns the fan on at 97C&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have a defective sensor and if so, what would be the normal needle positions at various temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T16:09:36.910" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T16:09:36.910" Title="Bad dashboard coolant temp sensor?" Tags="|mazda|cooling-system|gauges|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15514" CreationDate="2015-02-19T09:12:02.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's normal. Maybe just a tiny bit on the cool side. But if you're in traffic a lot that cooler thermostat is a good thing. All the cars I've owned would run between 85 and 95 degrees Celsius. 85 at highway speeds, then creeping up to 95 or 96 when in slow traffic, at which point the fans kick in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro tip: the hotter an engine runs, the more efficiently it burns evil hydrocarbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car is running too cold for your liking (or according to the opinion of a good mechanic), there are basically three things you could do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a hotter thermostat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drain your oil and fill up with a more appropriate option (ask your mechanic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take the car to a tuner to have them lean out the air/fuel ratio slightly and play with the timing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third option will increase the temperatures inside the combustion chamber and exhaust and also provide slightly better fuel economy/performance. Of the three though, #1 and #2 are your best options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T11:16:52.820" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:16:52.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15203" CreationDate="2015-02-19T09:27:12.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently this particular model suffers from this issue in cold climates. This is due to the factory o-ring failing to provide a good seal and thus allowing air to enter the Power Steering Pump Inlet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fix is to replace the o-ring. A step by step guide to this is provided in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://acurazine.com/forums/problems-fixes-114/diy-105-power-steering-whine-fix-754586/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T09:27:12.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15515" CreationDate="2015-02-19T11:46:18.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine coolant temperature gauges are not &quot;linear&quot;. It is quite common to see gauges which indicate the same temperature level for the operating temperature range that is deemed &quot;normal&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, you need to understand what the normal operating temperature range is for your vehicle in order to understand if the readout corresponds to normal or overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:46:18.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15429" CreationDate="2015-02-19T11:48:35.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to open with, I'm not really a car guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to add, I haven't worked in a shop in over 25 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my lack of qualifications I will submit my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Flat Rate Background Rant&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, from my experience, flat rate rules the day.  Dealerships, shops large and small, use a flat rate methodology to be profitable.  This construct is an ideology that that was designed to set an expectation with a customer regarding cost of repairs.  In all fairness, this is a pretty good idea to keep guys on the up and up.  Customer asks for a rotor replacement on [insert manufacturer/model/year here] and service desk/service writer guy looks in his book and says 2.5 hours.  Car goes into the service bay, at some point, and knowledgeable mechanic (frequently shielded from customer) goes at it and finishes the job in 4.2 hours.  Customer picks up and car and pays for 2.5 hours.  Seems pretty fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fast Forward to Retromod&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dude rolls up in an [insert 30 year old vehicle make here] and wants a quote.  Flat rate is not applicable in this situation.  It's truly unfair to the knowledgeable mechanic to force him to commit to how long it would take to make a bracket to mount a dookicky to a lateral wtf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation is a negotiation.  Predicting time in these situations (as you clearly understand) is unfair.  You need to have a shop that can actually perform the tasks you require.  If you goto the guys that work on yodo's and ask them to make you a cable, they may or may not be able to complete the task simply because they don't have the contact.  They just don't know a guy that makes cables. They work on Yoda's and they order an OEM Yoda cable when they need one.  They don't make stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Resource Management&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm living in a world that say's, &amp;quot;Don't count on one guy to know everything about all the things you want done.&amp;quot;  Not being cynical, just saying that some jobs are good for some guys and other jobs are good for other guys.  That being said, sorry for the long rant, maybe what you want needs to get sourced over, minimum, two different resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;One Two&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource one has a CAD machine and lasers to measure stuff.  (There are a bunch of young guys around Chandler Air Park, right near your that qualify)  They are meticulous in finding zero and strive to make a surface flat in their machining.  You know that kind of guy, he makes your mounts.  He's a college guy and likes math and physics, his rate might be around 120/hr or he might do piece work on his Mitsubishi 3D CAD box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource two does all of the work that is assembly and standard.  His rate is lower.  The skillset required for him to make money is more common so your really looking for thoughtfulness, good communication and attributes that lend themselves to personal responsibility.  He might be in the 75/hr range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is resource 3.  He makes cables, he lives in Wisconsin and can make a speedo calbe for '67 Triumph Fastback or a 240Z.  He doesn't care.  He just wants to make cables so he can retire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this doesn't answer your question but in a way, I hope it does.  Good luck.  Love going to Local, you guys are all awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:48:35.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1402" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:05:07.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the both front window run channels are dirty and dry may want to try cleaning  and run some silicone spray down rubber run channels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:05:07.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:12:59.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a service bulletin for replacing the thermostat  should be covered under warranty &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:12:59.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14831" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:48:56.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May have two problems first I would check power steering pressure switch then would make sure idle air control valve is working properly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:48:56.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14545" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:56:06.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could have an idle air control valve Issue, if valve sticks open will cause a big vacuum leak which would cause a no start. Next time it happens try taping litely on valve if starts replace valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T13:56:06.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15515" CreationDate="2015-02-19T18:22:45.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think your issue would be the sensor (aka: sending unit). The temp sensor works on a resistance scale. The hotter it gets, the more resistance is given in the circuit (or maybe it's the other way around ... don't remember, but you get the idea), which relates to the gauge what to show on your dash (newer vehicles will take an output from the computer to display on the dash and therefor only need one sensor to do the job). If the sensor is bad, it can do one of several things. It can have the needle not show anything, it can make the needle peg, or some other thing in between, like what you are seeing. If it were the gauge which was bad, it will usually either just stay at the low side or it will peg all the way over. Since yours is giving you a reading at all, I'd head towards the sensor itself (which I believe is the conclusion you've already came to). One way you might be able to check, depending on how the gauge is setup, is to ground the wire which attaches to the sensor. Since it works on resistance, if you ground it, it may peg the needle in the dash. Of course, you'd need the ignition switched on, but you wouldn't need to have the engine running. If it does peg the needle over (basically zero resistance), it might indicate that the gauge in the dash is working correctly. It might, however go the other way and peg it to the cold side ... this is all dependent, as I said, in how the gauge is set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECM controls sends a signal to a relay which turns your fans on and this is based off of the temps sensor going directly to the ECM. The sensor supplying the gauge is only for the gauge, so you should have no worries there. You could possibly get a reading from your ECM as to what the temperature is actually running at, if you can find the right software and interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge itself is never going to be a perfect reading of what the temperature of the engine actually is. It is a little better than an idiot light, but not by much. Almost every vehicle I've seen with a sweep type gauge has the normal operating temperature at the center (or near center) of the sweep. This might be punctuated by a tic mark or a number representing the temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think once you get an new sending unit into the engine you'll find out what the &quot;normal&quot; position is for your gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T18:22:45.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T01:42:45.570" Score="3" ViewCount="1445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was getting a few error messages &lt;strong&gt;p1135&lt;/strong&gt; being one of them, which seems to indicate that the O2 1st bank 1st sensor should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is 4cyl, so there is only one sensor under the hood (pre catalytic converter) and one sensor under the driver/passenger's side door (post catalytic converter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the mechanic who suggested that I replace the O2 filter and then gave me the part number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=991813&amp;amp;jnid=2&amp;amp;jpid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=991813&amp;amp;jnid=2&amp;amp;jpid=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2344137&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I pulled out the front O2 filter it appeared to look more like this part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2349024 on rockauto.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1998/Toyota/Camry/Air_Fuel_Ratio_Sensor/48-90054_AD.html?xref=262804&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1998/Toyota/Camry/Air_Fuel_Ratio_Sensor/48-90054_AD.html?xref=262804&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they interchangeable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing preventing me from connecting the sensor is the plastic plug on the end of the O2 sensor's electrical wire. The part I bought is a different shape than what is in my car. I could just shave the plastic ridges off the edge of the plug and stick it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are not interchangeable, is there a good place to sell an opened but unused O2 sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other question is, if the error was for 1st bank 1st sensor, why would my mechanic recommend a part that doesn't fit in my 1st bank 1st sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9502" LastEditorUserId="9502" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T01:55:03.440" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:25:20.507" Title="O2 Sensor - 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2L 4-cyl" Tags="|toyota|camry|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T02:32:52.520" Score="4" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm braking at a stop sign, I'm hearing a sound that sounds like a high pitched tire squeal; it's like a mix between tire squeal and the constant chirp from a bad belt, and it's coming from the front of the car. I believe it's coming from both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first thought it seemed obvious that it was the tires, but here is my list of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires are high-end, nicely broken in, yet still have plenty of&#xA;tread, so maybe it's the brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other hand, the brake rotor have only the slightest (1mm, 2 at most) groove and the pads are still at least 1/4&quot; and none of the sensors have come on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This only happens when the car is warmed up (which should make the tires grip even better, right?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried this in neutral and the noise still happens, so it's not the drivetrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This only happens just before coming to a stop, even with modest braking. I've slammed on the brakes when going fast and I don't get the sound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've heard it could be something stuck on the pad, but I don't see any strange grooves on the rotor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sound is only for a second&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="9501" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T03:31:03.467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T19:20:01.840" Title="Modest braking sounds similar to squealing tires" Tags="|brakes|tires|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T04:48:46.500" Score="3" ViewCount="6101" Body="&lt;p&gt;On 2005 Chev Classic 2.2 Ecotec, what direction do I need to turn it after replacing timing chain? I want to know what direction the motor rotates clockwise or counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise) when looking at the motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9504" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T12:02:56.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T12:13:01.027" Title="What is the direction of rotation of the motor?" Tags="|chevrolet|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T04:50:42.527" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't the most on topic question, but I don't know where else to get good advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got my Jeep's doors stolen.  My insurance gave my a check for $2550, so I bought some half doors on craigslist ($600) and some really nice custom made windows ($800).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to the local body shop and asked for a quote in getting the two parts (four items in total) painted, they said it was going to run me $800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is after I told them that I would remove all components not to be painted from the metal door frame, and the window that I ordered comes disassembled already - meaning the body shop does not have to take anything apart, or even tape it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that they just looked at the insurance stub, and thought that they could take advantage of my by pretty much filling the difference in what my insurance company gave me and what I have already spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the two items that I am getting painted, again, I am going to give them to the shop ready to paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogs3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRT3c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T04:50:42.527" Title="Reasonable price for getting doors repainted?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-20T14:05:44.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T04:57:38.303" Score="4" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title pretty much sums it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I haven't driven the car in a few days, the BMW E46 engine makes a faint chirp for about 30 seconds when I start up the engine. It's more like a rapid chirp, as opposed to a constant squeal, ahe sound goes away when I rev the engine. When I put my ear up close, it sounds like it's coming from near the power steering reservoir, which is located just above the belt. Image here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://photos.linquist.net/photos/421026382_Js3AM-M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://photos.linquist.net/photos/421026382_Js3AM-M.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T12:08:19.653" Title="E46 engine chirps when idling in the morning" Tags="|engine|bmw|noise|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T06:49:53.130" Score="3" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Dodge Caravan makes a strange rubbing or slapping noise under the hood that is quite loud and has to do with rotation of the tires or front axle. As you slow down it slows down and vice versa if you speed up. It stops when vehicle stops. It doesn't start doing it until after getting out on road for a few minutes and doesn't do it all the time. I crawled under it hoping to find something maybe wrapped around cv axle or tire, but nothing was vizable. It almost sounds like something hitting against firewall or bottom of hood. It also doesn't interfere with performance of engine or trans...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9506" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T06:57:54.983" Title="Mystery rubbing or slapping noise while driving" Tags="|noise|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T07:07:33.370" Score="4" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am. I noticed my cigarette lighter quit working. I had a friend put a new fuse in my car for me, then I used my cigarette lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of a sudden smoke was coming through my heater vents, so I parked my car. I got out and looked at the lights. My running lights quit working and my right turn signal is stuck on. None of my dash lights work. My speedometer, gauges, cruise control, hazard lights weren't working. I left and came back the next day with a friend to look at it for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We opened the hood and looked were the cigarette lighter fuse was and the fuse was melted deep down in the fuse box. It took twenty minutes to get it out of there. My friend drove it home for me and it started fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried starting it later that day and &lt;em&gt;it would start then died right away.&lt;/em&gt; Everytime I tried starting it my trunk would pop. I took my dash apart to look at the harness and there were bare wires that were melted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is this the OBD harness or something else?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9507" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T21:01:06.353" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T21:01:06.353" Title="Major electrical melt down in wiring" Tags="|electrical|noise|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15533" CreationDate="2015-02-20T12:08:19.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more than likely the serpentine belt at the alternator making the noise. One of two things going on here, either the belt itself is worn out, or the tensioner is not providing the preload to the belt to keep it tight. After the belt warms up a little bit, it sticks a little better so the sound goes away. If you haven't replaced the belt in a while, I'd high suggest you start there, as this is most likely the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T12:08:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15531" CreationDate="2015-02-20T12:13:01.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motor should turn clockwise as you are looking at the snout of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T12:13:01.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15625" CreationDate="2015-02-20T15:32:36.507" Score="7" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 1998/99 Honda CBR 600F. The drain tube seems to be corroded inside the fuel tank, based upon 2 symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filling the tank more than 3/4 full causes petrol to drain from the drain tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water which collects around the fuel cap (eg, during rain) dribbles into the tank, rather than escaping down the drain tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been advised that the correct fix is to replace the entire fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst searching for a fuel tank to buy, I noticed that individual drain tubes and breather tubes are available, and I wondered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Maybe these tubes are replaceable without replacing the entire tank?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trouble is, as far as I can tell, these tubes are &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the fuel tank, and therefore impossible to get to. Or are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cbr600f-1998-european-direct-sales_model2360/partslist/F__1400.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see parts 15 &amp;amp; 16 in this schematic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T03:35:29.570" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T10:50:54.743" Title="How easy (is it possible) for an amateur to change the drain tube of a motorbike fuel tank?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T16:44:21.083" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Mustang V6 that when I first drive it in a day the car hiccups a couple times. It only happens when the engine is cold. I can't figure out what is causing it. So far I put in a catalytic converter and fuel injection cleaner. &#xA;Here are the error codes I'm getting. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1000 On Board Diagnostics II Monitor / Driver Cycle Test Not Complete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1401 DPFE Sens Circuit High Volt NON_MIL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1450 Fuel Tank Vaccum Can Not Bleed NON_MIL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6680" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:37:27.133" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T13:37:27.133" Title="Car Hiccups when engine is cold 2002 Mustang" Tags="|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T18:32:08.893" Score="7" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. We have replaced the rotors 3 times, but prior to doing that we were having problems with our back brakes. The mechanic we were going to said nothing was wrong with the back brakes, but to just keep driving the car. We kept experiencing problems with the back brakes and decided to take it to another mechanic. He found the back shoes were worn thin, the drums needed to be replaced as well as the wheel cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all that was taken care of, the car started to shimmy again when applying the brakes. Took it back to the mechanic who replaced the back brake work thinking they may need adjusted, but it wasn't that. The rotors were warped he said. So we went back to the first mechanic who did the front brake job. He replaced the rotors. A week later the problem came back. We had them checked again by the mechanic who did the back brake job thinking once again it could be the back brakes. He said no, it's the front rotors again. He checked the calipers and they are not sticking. He checked the brakes hoses and says no leaks or problems there. Master cylinder is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got a third opinion today: rotors warped! This guy today says unmatched rotors and cheap brake pads. So the mechanic I figure has been putting on cheap parts. They are over heating and causing the rotors to warp. Does this sound logical or far fetched? Help!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9512" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T02:21:24.633" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:36:22.423" Title="Continual Brake Issues on a 2002 Kia Spectra" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15542" CreationDate="2015-02-20T20:46:20.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three separate areas which the codes are pointing to. Let's run them down one by one ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;P1000 On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Monitor/Driver Cycle Test Not Complete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes are - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery or PCM has been disconnected (Ford,Mazda)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared (Ford,Mazda)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An OBD monitor concern occured before completion of the drive cycle (Ford)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This error occurred because the OBDII system had not totally reinitialized before another code occurred. While I haven't dealt with this before, this is not an issue to worry about at this time. If it continues, then it would be a worry, but it appears to be a generic error which occurs right after a reset has happened, then another code appears, which you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1401_ford.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P1401&lt;/a&gt; DPFE Sens Circuit High Volt NON_MIL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DPFE is the Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic sensor. It is part of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system on Ford Vehicles. This part seems to be an ongoing problem with many Ford vehicles around the same year as yours. Luckily it seems to be a fairly easy part to change out ... &lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1401_ford.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guy did it on his Ford Focus&lt;/a&gt; without any hand tools. You can read a &lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/uploads/ford/04-11-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical Service Bulletin about it here&lt;/a&gt;. This seems likely to be an issue which most people can fix by themselves without too much of an issue (knowledge is power!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1450_ford.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P1450&lt;/a&gt; Fuel Tank Vacuum Can Not Bleed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The possible causes as they have them listed are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocked EVAP canister or vent solenoid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kinked or collasped hose between canister and fuel tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filler cap stuck closed, preventing vacuum relief    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem may be a little harder to get worked out. You can do your best to check the above items, but it may require mechanic intervention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get the DPFE fixed first and see if this doesn't eliminate the other two issues (well, at least for the codes popping again). I wouldn't worry at all about the P1000 code. The P1450 may be more problematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T20:46:20.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15550" CreationDate="2015-02-20T21:15:43.003" Score="5" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to find an enthusiast who knows a bit about classic Fords. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify these vintage Ford hubcaps ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xsfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9513" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T22:00:55.330" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T00:50:14.900" Title="Identify these vintage Ford hubcaps" Tags="|ford|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15548" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:07:44.147" Score="14" ViewCount="78793" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, it's fairly popular consensus online that it's red/positive clips to the positive/red posts, then the black/negative clip to the frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One site mentions sparks, but you'll still get a spark when connecting black to frame. If positive is the potential shouldn't it be keep disconnected as long as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I connect the positive first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T23:24:37.403" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T11:04:57.060" Title="Why should I connect the red/positive terminal first when jump starting?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15549" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:20:55.977" Score="6" ViewCount="24212" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, it's been cold in the midwest. Actually it's really never been consistently this cold outside of Duluth and this means when jumping a dead car it's not a bad idea to consider if the battery is frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the best steps to check for this? Around what temperatures is the to be expected at a reasonable charge, eg the car started when it was 15*f warmer? After an actual freeze can the battery be used again, or must it be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T03:26:44.997" Title="Diagnose and Handling of Frozen Batteries" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15546" CreationDate="2015-02-21T00:11:55.160" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conventional lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas as a byproduct of the charging process. This gas tends to collect in and around the battery. As you are aware making the final connection can generate a substantial spark. By making the frame connection the point where the spark occurs it is far enough from the hydrogen gas to avoid an explosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T00:11:55.160" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15547" CreationDate="2015-02-21T00:28:55.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frozen batteries can pose a significant hazard. As @Paul has stated the freezing point varies with the state of charge and battery type. A frozen battery can explode with considerable force spraying acid and shrapnel quite a distance. The explosion is caused by the expansion of the gas from charging. The gas is trapped by the ice and unable to vent. The battery case may also be weakened by the expansion of the ice. Some clues the battery is frozen are a distorted or bulging case. You can also remove the covers and see the ice on the top of the lead plates. If you suspect the battery is frozen remove it and allow it to thaw. If the battery has frozen, the damage may be slight enough to be usable after a thaw and recharge or it may be destroyed. The only way to tell is to thaw, charge and test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T00:28:55.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15545" CreationDate="2015-02-21T00:50:14.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, here are the two which I believe they are for ... looks about as close as you are going to get: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/hub-cap-v8-embossed-painted-ford-blue-stainless-steel-5-3-4-ford-passenger-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;top hubcap&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/hub-cap-ford-embossed-painted-ford-blue-stainless-steel-5-3-4-4-cylinder-model-b-ford-passenger-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottom hubcap&lt;/a&gt; if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, they look as though they have been painted over. I would bet Henry would have had a fit had these come off the assembly line looking like that ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T00:50:14.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T04:29:17.430" Score="3" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to have the sensors for dashboard lights and digital interface tested? The guys at Sears said they didn't like the sound of my car though the fluids were all fine. It's funny they low rated my brand new battery too so I don't know. I took it to an autozone and had the computer checked but it rang clear bill of health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7890" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T18:57:16.960" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:15:28.757" Title="How to check 05 mustang quality of lights and sensors quality" Tags="|electrical|ford|mustang|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T05:07:48.333" Score="6" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm always rewiring something or upgrading a component here or there on my vehicle. I recently discovered self-resetting breakers that can replace standard automotive fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a silver bullet to never having to buy fuses again, but I'm concerned there may be some tradeoffs I'm not aware of. Are there? Could heat be an issue if the entire fuse panel was filled with these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUazD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9514" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T10:09:16.037" Title="Any reason I couldn't replace my entire fuse box with self-resetting breakers?" Tags="|electrical|fuse|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15552" CreationDate="2015-02-21T10:09:16.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fuse blowing indicates something is wrong. This could of course be a transient that just requires a fuse replacement or a trip reset, but what if it's something more serious, like a short allowing high current to flow through sensitive components, or to ignite something flammable? Or an indication of failure of an expensive part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A self resetting trip removes the human from the chain, so how will you know what is wrong, or potentially even that something is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't do it - it's a massive safety issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T10:09:16.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T15:11:47.067" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 180 Varta Sealed FLA 12v batteries in my stable block Which are charged by a 240kw solar panel on the roof to provide lighting to the stables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The batteries are in the feed room and we recently boxed them in with ply wood to prevent theft as they are obviously expensive. There is a Victron charge controller just above and the batteries are only going to be charging in daylight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is about adequate ventilation- the box is surrounding the batteries and has a lockable flap down lid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only ventilation is down one side about 1 inch wide gap x 1ft where the cables feed out of ;  is this enough ventilation ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read about batteries am quite confused about needs now and do not want my horses to go up in smoke! thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9518" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:51:32.930" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T12:51:32.930" Title="Ventilation of batteries" Tags="|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15555" CreationDate="2015-02-21T16:12:01.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We talked about charging a lead-acid car battery inside an apartment a while back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2810/57&quot;&gt;What precautions are needed when charging a car battery in an apartment?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer to that question described the reasons why I thought that was a terrible idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you've put sealed NiCd batteries inside a moderately airtight box.  While the NiCd batteries are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93cadmium_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;supposed to reabsorb the hydrogen&lt;/a&gt;, that might or might not happen with every charge.  Considering that you've put the batteries in the stable with valuable animals, I'd tend to lean towards more ventilation than less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it might be much easier than you thought: hydrogen is the lightest gas of them all.  If you vented the lid, you might achieve security and safety without much hassle.  Perhaps a stout wire mesh lid with a lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like some guidance on much more aggressive solar set-ups than the one you're describing, try looking over Appendix A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sonnenschein.org/PDF%20files/GelHandbookPart2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this reference&lt;/a&gt;.  It's a little intimidating (and probably overkill), but it does provide some rules of thumb.  For example, your one inch wide slit?  Almost certainly too small and too low for hydrogen to easily escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T16:12:01.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15546" CreationDate="2015-02-21T16:32:49.217" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  don't know the actual justification, but to me it makes sense to always attach positive first because it is easy to accidentally touch the lead to something else while installing. If the negative lead were already attached, then touching the positive lead to just about anything on the car that is metal would short out the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T16:32:49.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T16:53:00.307" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy &#xA;it was running fine, then parked it.   it starting acting funny, sometimes would take a couple times to start, so checked my oil dipstick, it read a little high and smelt fuel in the oil, so I changed the oil and oil filter,  But not it wont start, it turns over and just dies and a puff of white smoke comes out of Carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any idea what it could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9520" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T09:10:43.747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T03:22:06.477" Title="2001 GMC Jimmy wont start?" Tags="|engine|starting|gmc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T01:11:13.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T17:48:37.813" Score="5" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C1 and it's a very basic model. It doesn't have a rev counter but I can add one because it has the cable and plug for it already exists, it's just not plugged into a rev counter.&#xA;What I was wondering is, does anyone know if the plugs that feed the dashboard to provide speed, fuel level, mileage and warning lights fit in other dashboards? Basically, are the plugs standardized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, do all ECU's calculate MPG and just not display it on the dash or do they not calculate it and it's just specific ECU's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9521" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T18:54:36.400" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:32:45.483" Title="Dash compatibility and the ECU" Tags="|citroen|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15564" CreationDate="2015-02-21T18:51:09.697" Score="6" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always known that you cannot stall (regular turn off by turning key (i'm not sure how that's called in english)) an engine if it is not yet reached it's work temperature. For example, if i go to a store and it's close enough for the car to not be able to warm up, i would take a slightly longer route so that the engine can warm up to working temperature. That's kind of been ingrained in me by my father. But i do not know why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is -- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;what damage (if any) is caused by not allowing the car to warm up before stalling it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9522" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T16:17:07.813" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T16:17:07.813" Title="why is it not good to stall a cold engine" Tags="|engine|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15563" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:06:01.207" Score="5" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if I buy plugs from a dealership which looks up which plugs I need based on my cars VIN or license number, do I need to worry about checking the plugs gap, or can I just assume they will be properly gapped out of the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeing Paul's answer, I just saw this on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9328&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NGK website&lt;/a&gt; when clicking on the Gap link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers set the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:56:06.443" Title="Gapping New Spark Plugs from the Dealership" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:15:28.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you first turn your vehicle on, the vehicle itself does a &quot;Power On Self Test&quot; or POST. When you turn your key from off to the run position (before you start it up), all of the dash lights which are usable will light up. You should get used to which ones light up and keep those in the back of your memory. If a bulb should go out, you'll notice the difference and know one is out. For the 05 Mustang, the dash lights should look thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pxdvu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the lights in the dash should either light up with key on (mainly the safety ones like ABS and Air Bag), or you can make them turn on by doing different things (like starting up the car and not having your seat belt fastened to check the seat belt light). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you took it to AutoZone and had the computer checked for any codes and it came up clean, you probably won't be seeing any indicator lights on the dash anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:15:28.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15561" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:17:31.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never assume any gap is correct. There are, however, spark plugs which you cannot (and should not attempt to) gap, such as Bosch Platinum +4. You should always check the gap to ensure it is correct on new spark plugs no matter where you get them from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:17:31.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15560" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:24:01.533" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't damage a vehicle by shutting it off before it gets to full operating temperature. This, in some places, could be considered a waste of gas. There are two things you need to be aware of though. If you are continually doing this on a regular basis, you will cause condensation in the crank case. This excess moisture can contaminate the oil and possibly cause corrosion on your bearing surfaces and otherwise cause sludge buildup in your engine. The second thing to consider is, your battery needs time to recharge. Continual short trips may cause degradation of your battery over time, causing it a shorter than expected life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:24:01.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16454" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:25:15.537" Score="16" ViewCount="123373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read conflicting reports regarding how plug gap can affect fuel efficiency.  For example, I've read that too small a gap won't cause a clean burn, or that too large a gap can cause misfires due to the voltage being insufficient to jump the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond manufacture's recommended gap range, is there any hard data on optimizing plug gap for maximum fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T20:40:50.947" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T09:36:10.167" Title="How much does spark plug gap affect fuel efficiency?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15559" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:32:45.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about your Citroen in particular, but all cars are made differently. Some have what you are asking about and some don't. It is all in how the manufacturer designs and sets them up. A usual rule of thumb here is the more expensive the car, the more gadgets you'll find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways you can figure out if you might be able to add other gauges and such is, check to see is if there is another version of your C1 which &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have the things you are looking for. If there is one, you could most possibly have it added to yours. To save manufacturing/design costs, manufacturers will use the same wiring harness and ECU over many different models and option packages of models. Changes to the vehicles are made right on the assembly line where a build sheet will tell the person which parts to add (low end gauge set or high end gauge set). They don't have to worry about the other components at this point because they are already in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T19:32:45.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15569" CreationDate="2015-02-22T12:33:31.920" Score="3" ViewCount="1866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a problem with my kia sportage 2002.&#xA;My radiator is losing too much water. I topped it in the evening with 5 liters of fluid. In the next evening it was empty after driving about 20 kilometers.&#xA;First, I checked to see if there is any sign of leakage beneath the car and tested all the hoses. Then, I checked if there is any sign of leakage of water in the engine with oil still nothing discovered. I checked with a mechanic we did a pressure test and he put a coolant to be sure that no hose is defected still no sign of leakage.&#xA;The problem is persisting it's been like one month my mechanic told me to check it every morning and top the radiator with water.&#xA;So guys I will be thankful if anyone has a solution or suggestion to my problem?&#xA;P.S: there is no sign of overheating temperature is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9528" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T16:30:04.373" Title="Kia Sportage 2002 radiator loss of water with no overheat or water leakage" Tags="|radiator|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15568" CreationDate="2015-02-22T13:50:21.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a blown head gasket ... I'm surprised your mechanic didn't suggest that to you. If there is no sign of visible leakage, it has to be going somewhere. There are only two other places for it to go. Into the crankcase or out the tail pipe getting burnt. You should be able to smell and see it coming out the tail pipe (you may see signs of excessive white smoke from the tail pipe, but may not be easy to see while you are driving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other thing which may be happening. If it is going out through the overflow tube during harder operation (something other than idle). You may not be noticing it. You could place the overflow tube in a position where you could see remnants of coolant left after driving. If this turns out to be the case, it could be a bad radiator cap which is not containing the pressure as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T13:50:21.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15572" CreationDate="2015-02-22T15:49:00.863" Score="4" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: 1997 Renault Clio RL Panache&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hazard lights are functional and I've changed the fuse (to the on-board spare) for the indicators, but still the control stick for the indicators has no effect, with the engine either on or off, and ignition on or off. All other electrical systems seems to be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my next step?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1546" LastEditorUserId="1546" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T15:59:54.077" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T17:08:14.863" Title="Clio I indicator control non-functional" Tags="|electrical|renault|indicators|clio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15570" CreationDate="2015-02-22T17:08:14.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it is occurring on both sides with the same result, your problem lies with the switch on the column. There is an outside chance that the wiring harness connection which attaches to the switch might need reseated, so you could attempt that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T17:08:14.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2015-02-22T17:40:38.087" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume letting your car idle will depend on how long its being parked. Eg, let's assume I parked my car for about 2 hours. I will not let my car idle for more then 5 minutes, of because if I had it parked for 12 hours irrespective of what the weather is. It should idle about 10 to 15 minutes. You will come to terms with the actual time according to the heat gauge once it is in operating temperature you set to go. It's like when you wake up in the morning you can't eat without refreshing up take that as an Eg. I'm not saying your car won't run if you just start and move but it will wear down your engine. Remember oil needs to circulate freely. The car's idle will be high you'll step on the pedal! You'll be wasting gas at times it gives a jerky ride until in normal rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9530" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T21:54:02.440" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T21:54:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9364" CreationDate="2015-02-22T23:01:39.623" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As gasoline burns, it expands.  When an engine is operating smoothly and efficiently, the space above the piston will expand at roughly the same speed as the burning gasoline inside.  If that happens, the force on the piston will be relatively constant throughout the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an engine is rotating more slowly, the much of the fuel will burn before the piston has had a chance to move down very far.  This will cause the force on the piston to be much greater near the top of the stroke than nearer the bottom; if the amount of fuel-air mixture in the cylinder is small, however, as when the engine is idling, that isn't a particular problem since the peak force would still be less than when the engine is operating wide-open throttle at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two related bad things can happen, though, if the engine is operated at low speed without being throttled back.  First of all, fuel will burn more quickly at higher pressures; if the engine is running at speed, pressures will be limited because the piston will be moving down as the fuel is burning.  If the piston doesn't move down fast enough, however, then not only will the pressure will increase beyond intended levels, but the increased pressure will cause the fuel to burn faster, thus hastening further pressure increase.  This is a qualitative effect; either the expansion will be fast enough to limit the rate of combustion, or it won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing that can happen is that the an excessive portion of the force from the piston can be transferred into pushing on the engine bearings rather than turning the car.  If a crank is at 90 degrees, all of its force will get converted into torque; at 0 or 180 degrees, none of it will get get converted into torque.  At intermediate angles, varying amounts will get converted into torque.  Ideally, much of the combustion should take place while the crank is significantly beyond the zero-degree mark.  If the fuel ignites too quickly, however, that may not be the case.  Knocking thus causes a double-whammy of excessive force from the piston, provided at a time when the crank can't use it very effectively.  Indeed, because some engines ignite fuel just before the crank hits top-dead center, that peak force could in extreme cases apply torque in reverse.  It's unlikely that it could actually make the engine rotate backwards, but applying torque in the wrong direction would stress many components in the engine while failing to do useful work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9533" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T23:01:39.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2015-02-23T04:18:19.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;one quart probably not but 2 quarts ruined a 1984 Cadillac Sedan Deville. The excess oil had nowhere to go so it went passed the oil ring and up into the combustion chamber. The excess oil bent the exhaust valve. Very costly mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9534" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T04:18:19.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:39:46.483" Score="1" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Opel Corsa's horn keeps honking when I lock the car the same way it is supposed to if a window were to be left open, but it does this even when no window is left open. The one thing that could cause this is that the right rear window does not work. Could this be the cause of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9536" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T09:35:38.167" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T14:20:12.647" Title="Opel corsa's horn alarms when car is locked" Tags="|power-windows|alarm|opel|horn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15598" CreationDate="2015-02-23T13:42:41.897" Score="4" ViewCount="7602" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've had one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clickondetroit.com/weather/local-4casters-say-wind-chills-are-dangerously-cold/31423594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;coldest winters in Michigan lately.&lt;/a&gt; Usually my car (2001 Buick Regal) is a trooper in the cold weather, but the other day as I was leaving work, I noticed a blinking light on my instrument panel. Since it's was red, I thought it best to look up what it meant, and it was the oil pressure light. It's also noticeably tougher to turn the steering wheel all the way to one extreme or the other, like the last quarter turn in either direction, not sure if that's related since I have a very slow power steering fluid leak (I don't even top it off once a year, and just topped it off a couple of months ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't troubleshot yet (shame on me), but I did notice my low oil light hasn't come on, so I know there's at least &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; oil in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be checking/adding oil in a couple of hours, but just curious about what other troubleshooting I can do. When I started my car this morning, it was -7 Fahrenheit outside and my car didn't sound good at all. I made it to work, but it drove noticeably different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it flicker, and not stay consistently on? Is this a sign of bad things to come? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T16:33:13.177" Title="What could cause Oil Pressure light flickering" Tags="|oil|indicators|freezing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15592" CreationDate="2015-02-23T14:13:15.040" Score="9" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.mazda-club.eu/sub-model/mazda-323-familia-protege-iv-ba-bh-1&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323 BA 1.8L 16 Valve BP DOHC&lt;/a&gt; and the previous owner has no idea when the last time the fuel filter was changed ( he was pretty clueless about everything related to the car ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a bit of hesitation on acceleration and I was thinking of inspecting the fuel filter, but have no idea how to tell if it needs to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the answer is, &quot;you should probably change it just to be sure&quot;, I'd still like to know how to inspect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T07:24:14.620" Title="How to Inspect a Fuel Filter to See if it Needs Replacing?" Tags="|mazda|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15583" CreationDate="2015-02-23T14:16:22.333" Score="6" ViewCount="15049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you've bought a second hand car that seems decent, but has no service record.  What are the things you would inspect, clean or change right off the bat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:47:35.517" Title="What to Inspect / Clean / Change After Buying a Used Car Without A Service Record" Tags="|service|used|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-02T18:12:26.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15579" CreationDate="2015-02-23T14:49:44.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I recommend is to not get a state required inspection sticker (if needed) from the  seller. Many dealers will include it in the price or have a station that they use. You want an independent check of the emission status and safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always do an oil and filter change. Even if the oil looks clean, you have no idea if it is the right type, or the quality that was used. Check the air filter and cabin filter if the car has one. Check the brake pads so you have an idea if they need to be changed now or in six months. Have the battery checked so that if it is marginal, you can replace it before it quits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has a timing belt and the mileage is near the change interval, get it changed. At the least, have a mechanic look and evaluate if the front of the motor has been apart recently. Many people will trade or sell a vehicle to avoid the cost of the belt change.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T19:31:01.227" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T19:31:01.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15578" CreationDate="2015-02-23T15:14:30.583" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove it and take a peak inside. If it's full of sludge, replace it. If you're a cowboy, blow into it and see how hard it is to force air out the other side. If it's working, you should see some fuel vapors coming out. You could theoretically clean and reuse the filter if you blow in the opposite direction, ejecting the blockages. Should save you some beer money until you're ready to install a new filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro tip:&lt;/strong&gt; (Only) In an emergency you can poke a hole in the filter with something pointy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've done all that and the car still hesitates, it may be time to have the battery, ignition (distributor or coilpack, as the case may be), spark plugs and fuel injectors checked. Everything save for the injectors is pretty easy and usually free to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T15:14:30.583" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T15:41:07.960" Score="3" ViewCount="6864" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what happens when I try to start my car:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU1e2x3pghI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU1e2x3pghI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the battery about 2 months ago, and I just went for a tune-up last week. I even tried boosting the car battery, so I don't think the battery's the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm suspecting either the starter or the cold weather. Any way I can confirm which one, without towing it to the mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9539" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:05:29.243" Title="2006 Honda Civic Won't Start" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15579" CreationDate="2015-02-23T19:51:32.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't disagree with mikes's answer, but I'd like to suggest an even stronger view: assuming that this is a car you'd like to keep for a while, &lt;strong&gt;treat it as if no service has ever been done&lt;/strong&gt;. The age and mileage will then dictate what you need to check out. Find a list of regular car maintenance items (in your repair manual if you have one, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcare.org/car-care-service-schedules/general-service-schedule/&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;), and go through everything up to the current mileage. This should be something a mechanic can do for you if you aren't inclined to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick explicit list, basic low-interval maintenance items should definitely be checked (most are easy): lights, tire pressure, battery charge and capacity, wipers, engine oil and filter, air filter, plugs and wires. Then move on to stuff like transmission fluid, fuel filter, belts, hoses, and cables. (Fluids should be changed without question.) I also agree with mikes on the timing belt: that and transmission problems seem to be common reasons for people to dump cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of your plans for the car, higher-interval, but safety-related items should be looked at ASAP: brake pads, fluid, and hoses; steering fluid; and tire condition. If for some reason you didn't get a pre-sale safety inspection, also make sure someone looks at the axles, wheels, and steering connections for soundness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T19:51:32.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15582" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:12:29.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have the key turned, is that rattling noise the same as when the car was working?  You should hear the rumble of the engine firing.  Try giving it some gas while turning the ignition.  If the cylinders are firing, giving it gas should make it rumble louder and might help it start in cold weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can only hear the high rattle or whizzing of the starter motor, it is probably: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad starter (or connection to crankshaft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low voltage from battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably not the latter since you checked your battery recently.  Google can help you check your starter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh wait, you know what else it could be?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distributor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spark plugs aren't firing, the engine won't rumble either.  So it could be your distributor or its connections.  Try this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a hold of a diagnostics computer, it might help you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:12:29.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15589" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:46:20.097" Score="5" ViewCount="4169" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Toyota Camry with 170k miles is pulling a P0420 code, which I've read can be due to a bad catalytic converter or O2 sensors. I have an OBD-II tool with the DashCommand app on my iPhone. Looking at the logs, O2S12.O2SV (downstream) seems to give reasonable readings (between 0.5 and 0.9V). However, O2S11.O2SV (upstream) is giving a a flat line of 0V always. But, there is a WO2S11.O2SV which is giving readings between 3.5V and 5V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the O2S11 PID not used for these Camrys, but instead the WO2S11? Or are they completely different sensors, and my upstream O2 sensor is dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any web pages with more information are welcome also. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9542" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T21:38:19.367" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T22:42:22.670" Title="Oxygen sensor PID for 2004 Toyota Camry 4-cyl" Tags="|obd-ii|camry|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15539" CreationDate="2015-02-23T21:12:31.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are correct in saying the tubes are inside the tank. What the manufacturers did was ran molded tubing through the tank and it sounds like those tubes in your case have rusted and corroded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would suggest in your situation is just plugging the inlet for the overflow by the filler, and the overflow outlet which comes off the tank. You may be able to use some rubber nipples to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you fill your fuel tank till it's full, and keep it in there. The issue now, however, will be that if you overfill your tank the fuel will run out over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T21:12:31.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T21:23:41.483" Score="2" ViewCount="3343" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my E46 BMW, the yellow check engine light always turns on when visiting Lake Tahoe (altitude ranging from 6000-8000 feet). It usually turns off if I've been there for a couple days. After many thorough performance 'test' drives, I don't hear or feel any obvious problems. I can't find anything about this when searching Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something to be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T23:01:31.893" Title="E46 Check engine light on at high altitude" Tags="|engine|bmw|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15590" CreationDate="2015-02-23T22:32:24.243" Score="26" ViewCount="188595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been driving stick for 15 years and within the last year I learned I can shift gear without the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the transmission will not let me shift gears without using the clutch.  However, if I hit the right RPM, my stick will let me shift into the new gear without any resistance.  Why does this work and is there a downside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:19:37.533" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T07:42:43.713" Title="Clutch less shifting - why does it work? Is it bad?" Tags="|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15585" CreationDate="2015-02-23T22:42:22.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to research I've done on the web, the &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; in WO2S11 stands for &lt;em&gt;wideband&lt;/em&gt;, meaning it can calculate much better than a standard O2 sensor. This, I would assume, is what your car is utilizing to get its O2 reading and not the O2S11. And yes, that would be for the bank 1 sensor 1 (upstream or before cat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your issue is not with the B1S1, though, it's with the B1S2 side of things, or the catalytic converter. The P0420 is specific to the efficiency of the cat. This can mean one of two things. Either the O2 sensor is bad or the cat is bad. Considering the cost of between the O2 and the cat, I would highly suggest you do something with it prior to changing out the cat. In your question, you state that the B1S2 sensor is giving reasonable readings between .5-.9v. This could be okay, but depending on what it is actually doing will dictate whether the cat is showing as good or bad. When looking at your live data, you want to see that the front O2 sensor is fluctuating wildly. The rear one, however, should stay fairly steady. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; by Eric The Car Guy is decent example. He is a little bit long winded, but he does explain things fairly well. You'll see what I'm talking about with regards to checking the cat by two different means, one being live data the other being by temperature. Basically to check the temperature of the cat, once you have ran your vehicle up to operating temperature (very important), you'll check the temperature of the cat right where the exhaust dumps into it with a laser thermometer. If your cat is good, it should read hotter at the rear of the cat than it does at the front. You want to ensure you are checking as close to the cat inlet/outlet as you can. There should be a &lt;em&gt;stark&lt;/em&gt; difference between the front and rear. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Unlike what Eric The Car Guy says, catalytic converters work on three gasses: carbon monoxide (CO), non-burnt hydrocarbons (HC), and nitrogen oxides (NOx) ... he's just mainly talking about NOx in the video.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't plainly clear that the cat is bad by the above tests, I would highly suggest you try something else before you replace the cat, and that would be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/13115/4152&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seafoam Treatment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;detailed write-up on ls1.com&lt;/a&gt;. This process will cost you an hour or so of your time and a couple cans of Seafoam. This process is much cheaper (as long as it solves the issue) than replacing the O2 or the cat. Please note this may only solve your issue for a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next step in this endeavor is to change the O2 sensor. While this is probably going to run you (if done yourself) another $50-60 (at least here in the States), but again, much less than a cat is going to cost you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you'll need to replace the cat. This is a much more expensive option, but it should fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T22:42:22.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2015-02-23T22:58:13.727" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this if your engine RPM, the speed of the vehicle, and the gear you are shifting to/from is just right. The reason you can do this is because you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Synchromesh&quot;&gt;synchros&lt;/a&gt; in the transmission which allows the two gears to match rotational speeds as they come in contact (basically, there is more to it than this, but hopefully you get the drift). The synchros are sacrificial in that as they are designed to wear out before the gears get worn. When you perform clutchless shifting, you are creating a large amount of unneeded wear on your synchros. By wearing these out, you'll be required to rebuild your transmission sooner than by utilizing normal shifting methods. With the clutchless method you are using, you are causing these the synchros to attempt to mesh until the correct rpm is met, even if it is for a short period of time. This is where the wear will occur. Even if it is a short period of time, there is just about no way you can hit this exact &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt;. If you feel that you are, you are more than likely fooling yourself. &lt;em&gt;Any resistance&lt;/em&gt; during the shift is unneeded wear on the synchros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T22:58:13.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15587" CreationDate="2015-02-23T23:01:31.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not consider this an issue. What is happening is, as you've probably already figured out, is that your car is adjusting itself to the higher altitude. When the light comes on, it is telling you it is basically out of calibration (probably due to running too rich at the higher altitude). Once the computer can get caught up and adjusts the fuel map correctly, it gets back to running within spec and the light goes out. You can verify this by getting the codes pulled from the ECU. These are usually stored in there until they are reset even though the CEL is no longer indicating a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T23:01:31.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15578" CreationDate="2015-02-24T01:32:12.250" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just replace it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're talking about a car from 1997.  If you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced, I'm inclined to believe that it hasn't ever been changed.  Very quick Googling shows me that a 323 fuel filter from that timeframe costs less than $20 USD.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to assure yourself that it's a problematic filter, you could disconnect the outgoing fuel line, place a catch can under the filter, turn the key to the accessory notch and measure the fuel that comes shooting out into the catch can against a known amount that the fuel pump is rate to pump over that time frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel shooting out, hopefully going in the catch can, not catching fire and burning my garage down.  No thanks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a reasonably cheap part that's usually replaced according to a maintenance schedule, not because it might / might not be sub-par.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it turns out that it doesn't solve this particular problem, you'll have at least &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; part on your car that you know the exact history of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T01:32:12.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T02:37:52.810" Score="6" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm completely restoring my Jeep's appearence.  I got my doors stolen a little over a week ago, so I bought new ones which have to be repainted.  I'm taking this opportunity to restore all of the Jeep (buffing the paint, restoring the fenders, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one part I'm held up on the most is the soft top.  I don't really know how to get the dirt and bird crap that's been baked into it over the last year out (I got a new soft top just over a year ago).  I would like to keep the top as black as possible, but I'm going to school in the high dessert in AZ, so the sun is always beating down on it with only 80% of the atmosphere blocking the UV rays.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my school we have an industrial sized washing machine - could I take the soft top off of my Jeep and all of it's mounting hardware and put it in the huge washing machine?  Would that be bad for it, or would it be a great way to get a lot of the baked in dirt out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not be best solution, then how should I go about restoring the soft top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T20:01:07.437" Title="Best way to wash a soft top?" Tags="|jeep|detailing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2015-02-24T07:31:22.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All good advise but if the wheel bearings are not changed make sure you regrease them.&#xA;Make sure all old grease is cleaned out as it will be badly burnt. &#xA;Burnt grease will kill your bearings within a very short period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9545" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T07:31:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T07:38:49.227" Score="6" ViewCount="5322" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many km's should be driven with a lower speed to setup the bore for a Royal Enfield Classic 350, what is the minimum speed for that duration and how many km's should we maintain that lower speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9546" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T15:03:57.967" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T15:03:57.967" Title="Royal Enfield Classic 350 - Motor Break-in Best Practice" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|royal-enfield|enfield-classic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2015-02-24T10:43:17.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a 94 del sol or civic esi some time back and had all sorts of diagnostics done to no avail. Radiator replacements, coolant tried em all. Eventually it all came down to that dreaded day that i have found a milky dipstick due to a a bad cylinder head gasket. Your case is a an early sign that compression is leaking into your cooling system. Car can function indefinitely but not advised since this can cause problems to your cylinder head. Extreme heating can cause you cylinder head to warp and may need refacing or total replacement depending on the conditions. Top overhaul is highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9547" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T10:43:17.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2015-02-24T14:03:55.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my particular case, the cause seemed to be low oil and an oil weight too heavy for the temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only checked the oil level so late because my low oil light never came on, so the oil must have been low enough to cause pressure drop, but not so low as to trip the oil level sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I see reports online of 10W oil being too heavy for temps below 0º F, and we've been having sustained temps below -10º F for the past week. However I've been driving my car every day during that time period, future readers of this may not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may switch to 5W-30 after some research, even if it's just for this one oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to summarize, my particular case was caused by low oil level, with the added stress of the weight being too heavy for the frigid temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T14:03:55.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T14:44:46.760" Score="4" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Fit 2013 has 3 settings for the interior dome light: off, on temporarily (when opening the door or switching off the ignition) or always on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I got into the car and found the battery drained because my toddler son switched the light to always on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is a simple way to hack the switch so that it can be either off or temporarily on, but not permanently on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3222" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:34:59.790" Title="Any way to prevent the dome light from being always on" Tags="|honda|fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15593" CreationDate="2015-02-24T16:03:34.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not put it into an industrial washer. Not only would it deform it, it would probably ruin it ... not even counting the amount of prep time it would take to undertake the effort. Personally I think I'd hit it with some good cleaner and a bristle scrub brush, using something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeek.net/racotopcakit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ragg Topp Fabric Convertible top Care Kit&lt;/a&gt;. You're looking to do two things though, clean it, then protect it. This kit does both, but would bet there are many other ways out there you can use to complete the job. It's going to come down to some elbow grease, but shouldn't be too difficult. The second product in the kit will provide some UV protection. In your harsher than normal sun, you will probably want to clean and protect a little more often than what is suggested on the product (this would go for any product). I'm assuming you have a fabric soft top ... there is also a cleaner/UV protectant kit for vinyl. In most cases these would not work interchangeably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T16:03:34.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15609" CreationDate="2015-02-24T16:15:55.157" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into getting a full sized spare rim/wheel for my 2012 VW Passat SEL. &#xA;Currently it has 215/55R17 tires on it, with alloy rims and 5 lugs on it to secure it. &#xA;The local shops offered me metal rim with unknown brand tire for a set price (both new). But I am looking around on Craigslist for a cheaper option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a Nisan rim with 215/55ZR17 - will it work? (ZR vs &#xA;Will the different rim type will be an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is the lug set orientation is different between those two? How Can I learn more (for the future's sake) how to find the right lug orientation for the wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZuqG1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McRIH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:37:58.973" Title="Using different rim that what I have?" Tags="|lug-nut|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15608" CreationDate="2015-02-24T16:31:43.237" Score="5" ViewCount="78045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 VW Passat SEL. Currently I have Han Hankook tires 215/55R17 on them. I am looking to get a full size spare tire and am looking on Craigslist for a cheap alternative. What will be the effect of driving on a 215/47R17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoSidewall.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; explaining what is the 65-45 as the aspect ratio, but what will happen if I drive on a higher or lower aspect ratio number? Can I drive on a higher/lower? If yes, how far high/low can I go with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T17:42:15.143" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T11:04:56.647" Title="Driving on a tire with different aspect ratio number than recommended?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15604" CreationDate="2015-02-24T16:33:46.287" Score="5" ViewCount="1815" Body="&lt;p&gt;The driver side window, which is electric powered, had given me some problems by not moving occasionally, then I rolled it down and remembered that it might now roll back up and as I was trying to move it up it gave out on me and is now stuck halfway up. It rolled down the other day randomly but it rarely moves at all. The passenger side window works fine, and just as a note when I say &quot;rolled up or down&quot; I don't mean manually &quot;rolling&quot; the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T08:29:25.983" Title="Drive side window won't move in a 1999 Saturn SC2" Tags="|power-windows|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15603" CreationDate="2015-02-24T17:14:53.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down button on the drivers window. If the light dims when you push the switch it's the window motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately you can take the door panel off, actually may be the door skin that comes off on that model to gain access to the motor itself. Check for power and ground by back probing at the motor while operating the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T17:14:53.317" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:17:20.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;97 Mazda - 323 S V (BA) - 1.8 i 16V (114 Hp)&lt;/a&gt; and was wondering if there is a way to find out OEM part numbers other than running to the local Mazda dealership and begging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, is there any reliable on line data base of part numbers for various model's and makes, or some other method for finding part numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:20:32.043" Title="Mazda 323: How to find OEM Part Numbers" Tags="|mazda|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:04:23.987" Score="2" ViewCount="2875" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 diesel Jetta's manual gear shift is not working properly. It's hard to pull out of reverse and it sticks getting into first and second. After first and second shifting is simple. I'm sure it's not the clutch. My dad has temporarily fixed it before. It's starting to act up again. (Something was lose under the hood) what do I need to replace to fix this problem? Before my dad fixed it, it wouldn't go into gear at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9550" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-12T19:23:11.370" LastActivityDate="2016-12-12T19:23:11.370" Title="Shifting: hard to pull out of reverse and sticks going into first and second" Tags="|diesel|manual-transmission|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15576" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:48:41.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is because of the broken electric window. Mine does the same, trying to find out if the opel garage can disable it as it's very annoying when it honks twice while locking it in a parking lot. I disconnected my hooter but that is causing more of a danger than solving the loud honking noise when locking the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9551" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T20:48:41.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2015-02-24T21:26:59.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tire were to be used on the rear of the car, the worst that would happen is the ABS light would come on (and possibly the low tire indicator, if so equipped). If it were on the front end (since the Passat is a front wheel drive vehicle), you run the risk of damaging the transaxle (the &lt;em&gt;differential&lt;/em&gt; in the transaxle to be specific). When running tires of different sizes on the drive axle, you are forcing the transaxle to behave as if it is constantly going around a corner. This creates a lot of wear on limited slip parts as well as creates a lot of heat. Since it is collocated with the transmission itself, the added heat creates an issue for the transmission portion of the transaxle as well. Heat is the biggest killer of automatic transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the two tires you mention is somewhere to this difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;217/45R17 = 24.6&quot; overall diameter = 77.3&quot; circumference &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;217/65R17 = 28.0&quot; overall diameter = 87.9&quot; circumference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note this is over 10&quot; difference in circumference ... that isn't just a little difference, that's a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;HUGE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; difference. If you'd like to play around with how this all figures out, please &lt;a href=&quot;http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/&quot;&gt;take a look at this site&lt;/a&gt;. Remember, though, this is just a rough estimate as while the numbers look the same, it doesn't mean that one manufacturer's claim to width or aspect ratio is going to be exactly the same as another's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two suggestions for you. First, continue to look on Criagslist. You'll find what you are looking for there. It doesn't sound like you are in a huge hurry to get this done (you don't need it today), so be patient and get what you need. Secondly, see if there is a used tire store around which might have a tire for your vehicle. At least in my area, there are several which charge a set amount for the tire and for mounting/balancing and are very reasonable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:26:59.190" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15601" CreationDate="2015-02-24T21:37:58.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the wheels will not fit. If my research is correct, Nissan's use a 5x114.3 bolt pattern, while the Jetta uses 5x112. Not knowing which vehicle the Nissan rim came off of does not help much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two other things you need to consider besides the bolt pattern is the offset of the wheel (how it is oriented in regards to the hub mounting point - inboard or outboard) and the width of the wheel itself. If it comes with the same size tire as what you have on your vehicle, more than likely the width of the rim will be approximately the same, so shouldn't be an issue. The offset is much more important. If it's too far inboard, it will rub on the wheel well while turning (left/right). If it's too far out, it will rub on other parts while the wheel is turning. If it is on the front end, it will mess with your alignment and cause you driving issues (probably not large issues, but it will be funky, all the same). Tire diameter is also important as I've already discussed in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15602/driving-on-a-tire-with-different-aspect-ratio-number-than-recommended&quot;&gt;other thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:37:58.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T00:30:29.530" Score="5" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an electrical problem with my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The alternator whines and the battery gauge drops to zero. I put a new battery in and a new alternator and it didn't fix the problem. any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9553" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T11:08:36.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T00:45:58.917" Title="Jeep electrical/charging problem" Tags="|jeep|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T01:52:59.520" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 ford mustang and the radio sounds tinny although the sound is clear not distorted. I am trying to figure out if it is the radio or the speakers. I find it hard to believe all six speakers are bad. Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9555" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T07:39:49.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T17:40:32.927" Title="04 Ford mustang has no bass" Tags="|ford|audio|mustang|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-02-25T02:26:31.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a Fit and the salesman told me that itdif shut down one cylinder and make adjustments to the heating/cooling system. He advised not using the econ button in extreme hot or cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9556" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T02:26:31.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15582" CreationDate="2015-02-25T04:30:48.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your losing battery voltage I would make sure the battery is tested and fully charged then make sure you have good battery connections at the battery. If unsure just remove both battery terminals at battery and give them a good cleaning If the car has an aftermarket alarm installed check those connections they are spliced into the ignition switch  harness under the steering column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9485" LastEditorUserId="9485" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T14:05:29.243" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:05:29.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2015-02-25T11:26:14.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like the gear linkage - i.e. the physical connection between the gear stick in the cabin and the gearbox itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Google suggests that the Jetta has a cable linkage, which may need adjustment - Bowden cables stretch over time, and so become loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/how-to-adjust-your-vw-and-audi-manual-shifter-cables/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; describes a shortcut to the official factory method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a helper move the shifter inside the car while you watch the shifter assembly on the transmission .... Fore-aft adjustment should be the cable on your right when standing in front of the car, looking down, ... Left-right adjustment should be the cable on the left ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... On the mk5 Jetta and the mk6 Golf you must remove the engine air filter box for clearance ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the black ring back to compress the spring .... This will expose the shifter cable end and release its threads from the threads on the cable. Move it forwards or backwards 1 thread/notch to &amp;quot;skip&amp;quot; over the threads and then release the spring to clamp the end onto the cable threads. If you wish to lock the springs in the compressed position, turn the black plastic ring. This is not necessary if you're just moving the end slightly - just pull the ring back, adjust, and release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;amp;v=sheTKD03hmo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T11:26:14.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15632" CreationDate="2015-02-25T11:30:15.000" Score="4" ViewCount="1557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Focus 2004 1.6l that has done quite high mileage 155k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had a problem wheel bearing on the front right (drivers side) which was replaced along with a full service and some other bits. After this it was silent and driving fine for about 1k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the last couple of days it has developed a noise from the rear of the car which appears to be getting louder. It sounds like driving on a flat however I checked the type pressure yesterday and it was fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicions is that it is either a wheel bearing on a back wheel or a problem with the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strange thing is that it is loudest from 0-25mph after this it actually gets quieter. Then from 40+mph it seems to come and go but never as loud as it is at around 20mph. This to me doesn't fit with a wheel bearing that tend to get louder and louder with speed from my experience on the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I try to diagnose this more before getting it to a mechanic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really need to narrow it down a bit more to know if its safe to drive as I do around 40 miles round trip a day for work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9560" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T10:55:56.763" Title="Ford Focus 2004 1.6l Rear Noise" Tags="|ford|noise|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15618" CreationDate="2015-02-25T13:14:30.777" Score="4" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car ('96 Ford Taurus) developed a transmission fluid leak and lost an unknown amount of fluid. I fixed the leak and began replacing transmission fluid but this has proved to be extremely tedious. This is my current process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add half a pint of fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait twenty minutes for all the fluid to drain from the filler tube so I can get an accurate reading on the dipstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the car for ten minutes so the fluid gets hot and I can get an accurate reading on the dipstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to step one and repeat endlessly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely there is a better way to do this that is less time consuming, allows me to fill it up quickly and accurately, and saves me from having to spend my entire evening doing this. I am ready to be embarrassed, someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9562" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:44:25.850" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T13:44:25.850" Title="Surely I'm refilling my transmission fluid incorrectly" Tags="|ford|transmission|automatic-transmission|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15617" CreationDate="2015-02-25T13:27:31.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what you should be doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your vehicle on a level area like a driveway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your vehicle is up to operating temperature and running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the dipstick and with a clean cloth, wipe it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the dipstick back into the tube down to the bottom, then pull it out again immediately and check the level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an appropriate amount of fluid (half a &lt;em&gt;pint&lt;/em&gt; is a good measure).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the dipstick back into the tube (if you don't you'll more than likely push fluid back up through the tube in the next step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get back into the vehicle, with foot on the brake pedal and run the transmission slowly through the gears (Reverse, wait a second; neutral, wait a second; drive, wait a second), then back up through the gears the same way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start over at step 3 until the desired level is reached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the vehicle is up to operating temperature, you don't need to wait 20 minutes between each time you add fluid ... the temperature of the fluid in the transmission will bring it up to temp rather quickly. Also, and this is &lt;strong&gt;imperative&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR TRANSMISSION&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This will cause your transmission to spring another leak which will not fix itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Check both sides of the dipstick for the proper level. Many times, due to a bend in the tube, the bottom side (whichever side that is at the time) of the dipstick will run down the sloped part of the tube and pick up residual fluid which resides on there. If you check the other side of the dipstick, you should see a distinct line of fluid (this should be the top side) which will give you a more accurate reading of fluid level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T13:50:30.060" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T13:50:30.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T14:41:56.620" Score="3" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a '99 Honda Accord (V6). I have been putting mid-grade gas since I got it but I put in regular gas the other day and I believe that's when it started sputtering. It's getting worse now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sputtering happens when I accelerate, and it stalls. I got an oil change recently so there shouldn't be anything wrong with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9563" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T02:12:17.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T02:12:17.933" Title="'99 Honda accord sputtering when accelerating and stalling at idle" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|accord|hesitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:51:54.157" Score="3" ViewCount="34602" Body="&lt;p&gt;98 Ford Expedition. The car is flushing the theft lights, and is not starting. I been looking for information about this problem. It sounds that it is related to the PATS system that ford has on those car. However, there is not any good information about solutions to this problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9564" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T22:13:53.540" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T22:13:53.540" Title="98 Ford Expedition. Anti theft-ignition problem (car not running)" Tags="|ford|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2015-02-25T20:08:24.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not OBDII but the phone, the code is 1234. You have to go to settings then management applications then go on those running and then click on Bluetooth and forced shutdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Original text below. Translated text above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I&lt;strong&gt;l problema non è  OBDII ma il telefono,il codice è 1234.&#xA;Dovete andare in impostazioni poi su gestione applicazioni poi andate su quelle in esecuzione e poi su Bluetooth e cliccate su arresto forzato poi cliccate su svuota Cache e riavviate il terminale.&#xA;Fate ora l'accoppiamento e vedrete che con il codice 1234 funzionerà.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9565" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T21:37:18.020" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T21:37:18.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15621" CreationDate="2015-02-25T21:51:49.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some instructions I found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061112222454AAVYec8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;. They may or may not work. Your only other alternative, it appears, is to take the vehicle to the Ford dealership and have them reprogram the key(s) for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to take some time and patience, but this should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theft indicator proves out after 2 seconds and then flashes rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 15 minutes of flashing, The theft indicator will stop flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within/Before a few minutes (5 I believe), after it has stopped, turn the key off and then back to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theft indicator proves out after 2 seconds and then flashes rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 15 minutes of flashing, The theft indicator will stop flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within/Before a few minutes ( 4 on the second time), after it has stopped, turn the key off and then back to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 15 minutes of flashing, the theft indicator will stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All original programmed keys will be erased and the key in the ignition is programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the procedure for programming a new key. Since you are programming an existing key, it may work on the first pass which is the procedure for programming a spare key. I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T21:51:49.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15539" CreationDate="2015-02-26T00:23:38.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Interesting issue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF, the internal tubes have corroded within the tank that would be relatively serious.  The interesting piece is, how would they corrode.  As far as I know, almost ALL the fuel tanks on modern bikes use copper for this overflow.  It runs from the lip above the filler point, down through the tank to a nipple on the underside of the tank (or in the case of Kawasaki's) to a nipple under the front of the seat on the top side of the tank towards the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a standard Honda Fuel Injected tank design cutaway.  This is for a CBR, post '06.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPpP8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the two tubes running through the tank.  The larger one is the overflow and it's made of a copper and nickel alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, how can it corrode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has some of the best general resistance to aqueous corrosion of most of the alloys.  It also, when used in a fuel tank, has an epoxy coating....as does the rest of the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Theory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thinking about this for a minute, the idea that the tank coating has been stripped out of the tank keeps recurring to me.  Those tubes just don't corrode with the epoxy lining, nor does the tank.  It's steel and would turn into a shell of rust and post-apocalyptic dysphoria pretty quick.  Imagine hitting the dew point everyday with a low fuel level and lots of atmosphere inside the tank.  Water droplets, tiny ones, form on the inner tank surface and then you get rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if I'm right, the tank has been stripped using that standard commendation, with a water/acid mixture.  It removed the epoxy coating off the copper.  The copper became exposed to oxygen and began to....that's right...oxidize and degrade over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am correct, there will be rust on the inner tank surface as well.  If there is no rust on the inner tank surface then there is a good chance I'm incorrect on how this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a new tank.  You can't plug those nipples.  If the line internally is broken and gas from inside the tank can exit that broken copper line, you fuel is essentially exposed to the atmosphere and whatever sparks, fire or any other ignition source the rest of the world is exposed to.  Think static electricity here, with a low amount of fuel and lots of airspace in the tank.  It would create a might fine explosion worthy of any virul youtube video.  The exit of that line is near an exhaust pipe, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throw it way, get a used one on Ebay from a seller with a good rep.  Sorry for the bad news.  99% non fixable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T00:42:36.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15611" CreationDate="2015-02-26T00:30:02.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably the terrible stock speakers. Upgrade your speakers or put in a subwoofer if you want bass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T00:30:02.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15596" CreationDate="2015-02-26T00:41:53.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to pretend I'm an authority on this kind of stuff but I just have another opinion, just like most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some technical differences between a modern bike and your 'new' Royal Enfield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern bikes have a coating on the inside of the cylinder wall on top of the iron (essentially) sleeve...or in some cases...straight aluminum alloy...really, I'm not making this up.  This coating is called Nikasil.  Extraordinarily hard and very thin on the surface of the cylinder.  It's made of Nickel and silicon.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike does not have this fancy material.  It's pure old school.  Old school recommendations for break-in apply.  Anyone, please check my reco here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vary your RPM regularly.  Don't drive long distance at the same RPM the whole time, very it by a few grand, up and down the range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be nice to it.  Some say, ride it the way your will ride it.  Uhmmm, nah, be nice.  Take it up the rev range once it has a couple hundred miles on it, redline once in awhile but initially, there is more friction going on here.  The hone cross hatches against the rings will create a little more heat, so be aware of that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat - be aware.  Think.  Sitting in traffic, rush hour traffic, not good to overheat your little teacup.  Avoid it initially or turn off the motor if your in that traffic jam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil - Change it a lot.  I read a Popular Mechanics article where the guy was changing his oil every 20 miles!  I'm not that fanatical but I did have a bike where I did it every hundred, guess what....looked like very fine flaky metal within the old.  As all the bearings, camshaft against lifter, gear on gear wear themselves together and create good mating surfaces the thing is going to have an accelerated wear rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your brake pads and discs need to mate together too.  No high speed stopping or dragging on the brakes immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying don't have fun, I'm just saying.  Be aware, don't beat it up: vary the engine speed and change the oil a few times for the first 1000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T15:19:04.410" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:19:04.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14657" CreationDate="2015-02-26T00:47:38.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took this back to O'Reilly and they took it back b/c it wasn't an &quot;exact&quot; fit for the part I was replacing, even though their computers said it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They ordered me a pricier (by about 100%) part that actually had the correct configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed the pricier one, and it's been working fine since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T00:47:38.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T03:01:24.493" Score="3" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;At slow speed one of my front tires on my 2000 Grand Am SE 4 door wobble, but feels fine at a higher rate of speed. Was told by a person at a tire store my tread is breaking loose and I need a new tire. Do you think this is the answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9568" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T14:29:38.087" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T02:05:31.787" Title="My tire wobbles" Tags="|tires|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T07:50:05.633" Score="6" ViewCount="2405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki GSX600F Katana. Yesterday, I changed the clutch lever on the handlebar and left the key on. I had to push start my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting it started, I left it in first gear, and let go of the clutch lever too soon. The bike lurched forward a little and I fell on my left side with the bike. While picking it up, it fell again on its right side. It was down for about 7 to 10 minutes before I got help picking it up.  Now it won't turnover at all or start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9570" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T19:57:01.793" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T19:57:01.793" Title="I dropped my bike and now it won't start" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starting|ignition|katana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15616" CreationDate="2015-02-26T10:55:56.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard test for a wheel bearing goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up the appropriate end/corner of the car and support it on axle-stands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grasp the wheel firmly at top and bottom and try to shake it - there should be a tiny amount of movement, any more is suspect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 2 for side-to-side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin the wheel and listen for any unusual noise, or resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While you're at it, check the brake pads for wear...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is to see if either rear wheel feels hot to the touch after a run - use the back of your hand, carefully...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the back of the car is up on stands, a visual check of the exhaust should reveal any obvious problems (e.g. a failing mount rubber) - make sure you do this with the engine cold, as exhausts can get very hot. Also check for anything else loose - mudflaps, stone-shields, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight exhaust blow wouldn't make the sound you're describing - they tend to sound more raspy, a bit like the big exhausts that boy racers fit to their cars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T10:55:56.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2015-02-26T12:20:21.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my navara bakkie - appears it was the fuel filter allowing air into the system.&#xA;Replaced this and changed the clamps on the fuel lines where they join the fuel filter.&#xA;Seems to have worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9571" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:20:21.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T12:52:49.147" Score="5" ViewCount="11818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Taurus SE with ~95000 miles. It has been a very cold and harsh winter in New England. Recently, I have been hearing a clunking noise in the rear, right tire region when hitting bumps, both small and large. I can pretty much hear the noise even on slight bumps but it is most noticeable with bigger bumps. I haven't been able to check this yet because I do not have a garage and the temperatures here have been below 10 degrees consistently. What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7129" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:21:57.523" Title="Clunking Noise from Rear, Right Tire when hitting bumps" Tags="|ford|noise|suspension|struts|taurus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17193" CreationDate="2015-02-26T14:36:33.013" Score="8" ViewCount="6062" Body="&lt;p&gt;My air bag system light started coming on a while ago. Sometimes it will come on and stay on, other times it will go off after a while. This usually happens when it starts raining out. I did some research online and found there is a typical problem on my vehicle (2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500) where the front air bag sensor has issues. This sensor sits in front of the radiator and is sitting out in the breeze, so no doubt why it would have issues with weather. To verify this was the issue, I put my scan tool on the system and verified this is the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what is the proper way to prepare your vehicle to do maintenance on the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System)? I can imagine the best way is to disconnect the battery and let it sit, or something, for a period of time ... I just don't want the air bags to blow because I didn't prep correctly. Any referenced advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T13:57:24.157" Title="Proper way to do maintenance on an air bag system (SRS)?" Tags="|chevrolet|sensor|supplemental-restraint-system|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:17:46.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about draining every last drop of oil. Just make sure that you change the oil and filter regularly every 50,000 miles as I do. My 4 cars perform as new with an average of 165,000 miles, 2 diesel and 2 gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9574" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:17:46.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15640" CreationDate="2015-02-26T19:20:25.253" Score="5" ViewCount="23128" Body="&lt;p&gt;When changing a timing belt, what other parts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always changed with it ( as in they always have to be replaced ) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often, but not always changed with it ( depending on how worn they are )?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my mechanic said he would also inspect the water pump and might have to replace that also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this can be answered in general, or I need to relate this to a specific vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T03:35:43.700" LastActivityDate="2021-08-15T18:57:27.147" Title="What parts are usually changed when the timing belt is replaced?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|timing-belt|water-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15639" CreationDate="2015-02-26T19:39:25.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the timing belt needs to be replaced. Then they could change any followers or guides which mechanically get worn out. I would &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; recommend getting the water pump changed if it is driven off of the belt, or located in the same vicinity as the belt. The reason for this is, if you have to remove everything to replace the pump (ie: timing cover, belt, followers, re-time the camshaft(s), etc) to do the work, if the pump were to go out at another time, you'll end up spending for a second round of labor to get it replaced. Labor is the biggest part of the bill on doing the timing belt. In most cases, it is literally five to ten more minutes of work to replace the pump. Most timing belt kits come with a water pump. The cost of most of them are very incidental to the overall cost of getting the timing belt replace. For peace of mind sake, just do the pump at the same time. You could view changing the water pump as pro-active maintenance as you're doing it before it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T11:27:40.853" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T11:27:40.853" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15631" CreationDate="2015-02-26T21:30:11.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is a grounding switch on your clutch lever, hence the need to pull in the clutch to start the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can disconnect that switch and get a piece of wire and complete the circuit at the connector.  Once that's done, make sure you're in neutral and then try to start the bike.&#xA;The switch is labeled 10 in the illustration below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it starts, then you damaged the switch or connector when you dropped it.  Perhaps you pinched and cut one of the leads to the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it starts check.&#xA;1.  The switch&#xA;2.  The connector&#xA;3.  The wiring attached to the connector.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch is $15 new and you can google &quot;suzuki katana \model year\ oem parts&quot; and get a bunch of hits for an online order.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3NUP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T23:18:43.953" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T23:18:43.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="809" CreationDate="2015-02-26T21:38:06.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Katana has a fuse for the starter located on the starter relay underneath the rear of the banana seat.  Under the passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a plastic cover over it, so it's not easily seen.  The plastic cover is white.  Pop that off and check the 30amp fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you jump start a bike, do not have the car engine running, just use the battery.  The amperage is too high.  I've seen a battery blow up before from doing that.  It was the 80's so the tech was pretty low end at the time but that just illiterates how hard a high amperage push into an MC battery can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3Wy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuse is labeled 1B in the illustration.&#xA;The white cover I referenced is 1A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.  Hope this helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T21:38:06.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-27T00:38:50.720" Score="2" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was driving my 1988 ford ranger 2.1L 4 cylinder when it started putt-putting along at slower speeds, even shaking when going slow, also making almost I want to say a scraping noise, like if something was blocking exhaust. What could cause this? RPM was normal while I drove home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts fine and sits fine in idle, no problems or funny noises, only as I start to go from a dead stop does it putt-putt and the scraping sound is off and on, as if it has something to do with the putt-putting of the engine. Please advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9575" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:51:23.213" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T12:51:23.213" Title="Driving my truck when it started shaking and making strange sound" Tags="|ford|misfire|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1723" CreationDate="2015-02-27T01:51:27.203" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have typically replaced my stock exhaust systems with aftermarket race systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many stock exhaust systems have dual-wall designs so you never see the pipe that the exhaust is actually flowing into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my exhaust pipes glow orange/red when I ride them hard.   It's fine and completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yamaha dirt bike with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NzerTA8c0c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;exhaust glowing red.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a bonus video of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6AYHLwDDUs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cars exhaust glowing red&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jKY6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T20:10:21.207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:10:21.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2015-02-27T11:19:36.517" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me it was upper control arms the ball joints were worn out that fixed my shaking issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9579" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T11:19:36.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-27T14:58:51.013" Score="0" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some part numbers that I can cross reference for the compliance bushings (control arm bushing) for a 2007 Honda Odyssey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7VYl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9580" LastEditorUserId="9580" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T17:20:22.933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T17:20:22.933" Title="Compliance Bushing for 2007 Honda Odyssey" Tags="|honda|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15650" CreationDate="2015-02-27T16:14:04.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about for these? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxVVT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From Rockauto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you are looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6385077&amp;amp;cc=1433851&amp;amp;jnid=403&amp;amp;jpid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOOG # RK620504&lt;/a&gt; for the lower right and MOOG # RK620505 for the lower left. If you don't want Moog parts, just use the numbers. You can order the parts online from rockauto.com or get them from your friendly neighborhood parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also parts listed for upper and lower rear suspension bushings (DORMAN Part # 521800 right rear upper / DORMAN Part # 521799 left rear upper ... MOOG Part # RK642105 rear left forward / MOOG Part # RK642106 rear right forward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T16:14:04.383" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2015-02-27T18:40:11.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is your Heater Control Valve&#xA;But I am going to explain what it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all the &quot;wire&quot; you see is actually a vacuum line, it's a hollow (hopefully) air-tight tube that passes vacuum to the Heater Control Valve.&#xA;The heater control valve is a vacuum actuated valve that in the open position allows fluid to pass through and in the closed position does not allow coolant to pass through. This valve is normally open, meaning that when there is no vacuum present the valve will allow coolant to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your HVAC controls your options should be [Max A/C, AC, Vent, Vent/Floor, Floor, Defrost+Floor, Defrost only]. When you have the controls set to &quot;off&quot; or &quot;AC&quot; this valve closes to prevent coolant from entering the heater core. In any other setting (I believe, there might be another though) this valve is opened and allows coolant to circulate through the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to maximize AC efficiency because when your heater core is full of (hopefully) 192F coolant you are going to be fighting that to produce cold air. It also closes off this area of the coolant system which increases your coolant system's efficiency as a whole (not having to circulate through an area that doesn't really provide any cooling aside from the heat you draw away into the cabin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't something you will find on every vehicle as it isn't truly necessary. Lots of vehicles simply allow coolant into the heater core 100% of the time.&#xA;This means that it can be bypassed as a quick fix if you really need to and don't have immediate access to parts, just connect the lines. Although you probably won't have connectors for the lines either if you can't get access to such an easy to find part ;P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4330" LastEditorUserId="4330" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T19:12:37.547" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T19:12:37.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15663" CreationDate="2015-02-27T23:53:59.827" Score="12" ViewCount="90568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mech's seem to get a real rubbery one about Seafoam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just fuel additive, like something similar to Lucas Oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just pour it into my gas tank as a gas treatment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will it do/help with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9054" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T01:58:50.220" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T02:19:30.173" Title="What is seafoam? What does it do? How do you use it?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T14:48:35.613" Score="1" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used techron additive. After a gas tankful, the engine is smooth and powerful as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after another tankful of normal gas the engine is rough and sluggish again. Why is this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make the effects lasting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T14:50:56.703" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T14:50:56.703" Title="Engine smooth after techron then rough again" Tags="|engine|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:52:27.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T19:11:18.123" Score="3" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Pontiac Montana Van- intake manifold has been replaced along with radiator, water pump, radiator cap and thermostat.  When driving van will go to the red line but has never overheated with steam and such coming out of engine.  It doesn't show signs of blown head gasket.  Radiator and over flow  are still full.  Service engine light has been on since intake manifold repair.  Air has been bled out of system quite a few times.  Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9583" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T23:12:00.270" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T23:12:00.270" Title="2000 pontiac montana overheating" Tags="|pontiac|overheating|cooling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2015-02-28T19:36:36.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 solutions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Use a tightest fit rubber 'O' rings around the plug - available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Assorted-Rings-Plumbing-Rubber-Thread/dp/6040360860&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Assorted-Rings-Plumbing-Rubber-Thread/dp/6040360860&lt;/a&gt; - see pink bands on the image below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Use a short length of plastic-coated WIRE or a WIRE cable tie like those small black ones you get around a power cable when you unbox a new appliance (NOT a flat plastic 'garden' cable tie).  Thread the wire THROUGH both the 2 silver spring contacts on the side of cigarette plug and twist the ends together to tighten it around the socket, than press/flatten the twisted ends to the socket - see yellow band on pick below. The good thing about this method is that the silver spring contacts stop the wire tie from rolling off.  This worked so well for my loose USB cigarette charger that I have to give it a real tug to get it out!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJQIY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;socketwithbands&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9584" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T19:36:36.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15662" CreationDate="2015-02-28T20:16:53.803" Score="3" ViewCount="35238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed my clutch beginning to slip for maybe a month or two;  it was slower to engage, but not badly enough to affect driving.  Over the last week or so, it was getting significantly worse every day (driving less than 10 miles per day).  The last day I drove it, it was having trouble in every gear, and I barely got it home.  I got a replacement clutch, and when I left to drive to the shop to have it installed, realized it's now completely not engaging -- it won't move with the clutch completely engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a badly worn clutch cause this?  Or did I break something else by waiting too long to fix it?  What other possible problems would cause this behavior?  This is on a 1999 Mercedes SLK230.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3611" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:31:50.460" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T01:58:01.540" Title="Will a worn clutch ever completely fail to engage? If not, what will cause this?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T22:04:19.910" Score="8" ViewCount="210772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the dealership for an oil change and inspection, which &lt;strong&gt;includes the fluids being checked and topped off&lt;/strong&gt;. After the service, I took a look at the fluids in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tank marked &quot;coolant&quot; with &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt; marks on it, and the the level of fluid in this tank was (significantly) below the &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt; mark - it looks like there are about two cups total at the very bottom. I understand that this is the expansion/reserve tank that is used when the radiator requires it, and captures extra coolant when it expands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the service manager about this and he said that it was normal (even for the level to be below &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt;) and that I should &quot;check my owner's manual&quot; to verify. I was somewhat dubious of this, and my owner's manual says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The coolant level should be filled between F and L marks on the side of the coolant reservoir when the engine is cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the coolant level is low, add enough distilled (deionized) water. Bring the level to F, but do not overfill. If frequent additions are required, see an authorized dealer for a cooling system inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I checked the coolant level, the engine was still warm and not completely cold. Could this have caused the coolant reserve level to be lower than usual? Is there another reason that I could have observed this, or is the service manager pulling my leg and the mechanics neglected to check the fluids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add fluid to this tank myself? Why distilled water rather than an antifreeze/water mix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7680" LastEditorUserId="7680" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T22:51:47.993" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T10:50:38.370" Title="Coolant level is below &quot;low&quot; in the expansion tank, dealership service says this is normal?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15659" CreationDate="2015-02-28T22:45:25.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing inherently wrong with what the service manager told you. (As an aside, service managers and mechanics are looking for add-on work. They get paid more money for this work than work you bring to them to do. If he says it's not a problem, believe them, because if they could make some money off of you, they'll do it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it serves your peace of mind to add some coolant to the overflow, there is no issue with this. Follow the vehicle owners manual as to when to check it (hot or cold) and add fluid accordingly. Anywhere between the marks is golden. Check it every so often to ensure you have the right amount of fluid in it. If there is an issue, it will all of a sudden be too high (over flowing high) or too low (bone dry). If it does this, then worry about something being wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add distilled water (which you should use instead of tap water ... tap water will have minerals in it which can react with metals in your engine and radiator and cause sediment in your coolant system). I think a better choice is to purchase 50/50 pre-mix antifreeze/distilled water. Purchasing a gallon of it, topping off your system, then leaving the rest for a later date when you might need to add a little more. My understanding is there is no shelf life on antifreeze, so put the top back on it and be good. There are three or four different types of antifreeze you can put into cars these days, so ensure you are using the correct antifreeze for your application. These are all color coded, so it should be an issue (green, orange, yellow, and possibly red). Each one is specific to certain vehicles and you don't want to mix them. It's not that you'll cause the engine to blow up, it's just that the coolant will not behave like it is supposed to for longevity and cooling effect if they are mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T22:45:25.683" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T22:47:00.897" Score="1" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spun out in freezing rain and ended up in a ditch. I was doing 60 down to 45 when it went all the way around and on to the shoulder, which was soft dirt and buried the front tires. My vehicle is a 2003 Mitsubishi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have had shuddering at speeds above 45 and more steering play. What may be the cause? I thought maybe tires or alignment. I haven't been driving it because if it's something more serious I can't afford to fix it right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what it may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9586" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T02:41:53.810" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T02:41:53.810" Title="Car shudders above 45 mph after a spin out into a ditch" Tags="|suspension|steering|mitsubishi|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15657" CreationDate="2015-02-28T23:05:30.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about a Mercedes in particular, but that's exactly what happens when a clutch goes bad. There are three main parts to a clutch: pressure plate; friction disk; and flywheel. Each has a specific function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flywheel&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flywheel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - is a rotating mechanical device that is used to store rotational energy. This part is usually attached to the rear of an engine (on the crackshaft). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pressure plate&lt;/strong&gt; - is a spring loaded device which is attached to the flywheel. It is the clamping mechanism which, in concert with the flywheel, grabs the friction disk when engaged to create a single unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friction disk&lt;/strong&gt; - is a relatively thin plate with friction material bonded to it. There is a hole in the center of the friction disk which the main shaft of the transmission goes through. It is connection between the engine and the transmission. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a clutch starts to wear out, usually it is because the friction material starts be used up. As it becomes thinner, the pressure plate has less material to grab onto and so the slipping starts. The metal faces of the pressure plate and flywheel may also start to become worn, but they do not wear nearly as fast as the friction disk does. The friction material on the disk can be directly related to the friction material which is used on brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worn clutch is a self feeding animal. The only time it wears is when it is either being engaged or disengaged. During this period of time, the friction material is slipping past the metal faces of the flywheel and pressure plate. This induces heat from friction. When the clutch is engaged (pedal out), no slippage should be occurring, so no wear is occurring. When a clutch starts to slip when it is engaged, the wear process starts happening quicker. The more it slips, the more friction material is eaten up. It gets to the point, as you discovered, where the clutch quits performing its duty at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be when cars utilized metal cables attached to the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, there might be the ability to adjust the clutch a little which allowed the clutch to last longer. Now days, with hydraulic actuation, they self adjust for the most part. The problem is, when they go, they go. It usually happens pretty fast when it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; (I realized I didn't answer part of your question) - While you purchased a clutch for replacement, you might also have damaged the flywheel in the process. Once the clutch starts slipping, a lot of heat is built up in the flywheel. This can cause heat cracks in the surface. Most of the time these aren't very deep, but they need to be removed in order to reuse it. This is a simple machining process which almost any shop can do or have done. If the heat cracks were too deep, the flywheel may need to be replaced. Also, when a clutch is replaced, this is an opportune time to replace the throw out bearing and inspect other parts which are easy to get to while the transmission and engine are separated, such as the rear main seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps make sense of your issue so you can figure out what exactly has happened with your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T23:36:29.043" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T23:36:29.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15653" CreationDate="2015-02-28T23:32:09.070" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://seafoamsales.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seafoam&lt;/a&gt; is a fuel additive which has several uses. Its primary purpose is to clean the fuel system of varnish and fuel deposits. It also cleans carbon from your combustion chamber to help reduce emissions and allow your vehicle to run better. You can also run it in your engine oil to remove sludge deposits. The following describes how you utilize the product in each of the different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Additive:&lt;/strong&gt; - Dump a can of Seafoam into your gas tank just before you fill up (yes, at the gas station). When you fill up the tank, it will thoroughly mix in with the gas and work as it should. In this process, your injectors are the main part you are cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Treatment:&lt;/strong&gt; - Use about 1/3 of a can dumped into the oil filler tube about 100 miles (or less) before an oil change. You need to run it for a little while so it can do its thing of cleaning the internals of the engine, but not so long as to cause issues. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake Tract Cleaning:&lt;/strong&gt; - This part is a little more involved. For a complete rundown of how to use it this way, &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;please read this forum post&lt;/a&gt;. Generally though, this process is as follows (I wrote this in another &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/13115/4152&quot;&gt;answer here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First, this is a two person job. Second, pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster (not from the engine side). If you have a small funnel, put it into the end of the vacuum hose. Have someone start the car. They will probably need to rev the engine during the next part, but only enough to keep it running. With the engine running, slowly dump about 1/2 of the can into the funnel and let it get sucked up by the engine. This will cause volumes of white smoke, but not to worry. This is normal. When you get down to about 1/2 to 1/3 of the can left, dump the rest into the funnel and as soon as it is sucked in, have your helper shut the car off. Let the engine sit for about 10-15 minutes. After the wait is over, start the car back up. This may be a little difficult and again will cause a bunch of smoke. Keep the engine running until the smoke disappears. You have now successfully completed a Seafoam treatment. This will clean all of the carbon out of the intake tract, from the valves, and from the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This answer in no way is an endorsement of the product mentioned, it's just describing the product and its uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T18:25:22.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T03:06:24.720" Score="1" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a catastrophic failure in my 2005 Honda Pilot.  The check engine light started flashing and the engine was running rough.  Felt like a spark plug wasn't firing.  Limped it to the shop where the mechanic reported that the spark plug in the number 5 cylinder had disintegrated due to an overhead coil,  parts of the plug were in the cylinder,  and the threads in the cylinder head had melted.  I have never heard of this being possible.  Estimated cost between $3000 (head job) and $5500 (new engine). Feedback anyone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9587" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-01T04:56:41.143" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T04:56:41.143" Title="Burned spark plug melted cylinder head" Tags="|honda|sparkplugs|pilot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-05T01:31:34.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T11:33:32.583" Score="3" ViewCount="13833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 door Vauxhall Astra [Club Twinport] (07 plate). The rear jet washer is blocked some how. The front jets work nicely (although one was initially blocked but the fine needle tip worked well) and the jet motor works perfectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how can I get access to the rear jet washer as it's not really documented. The jet washer is located within the upper rear breaking light bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the following pictures;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picture of the washer (within tail light, to the left)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJk5i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the washer (within tail light, to the left)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Close up of the panelling behind the tail light&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVMra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of the panelling behind the tail light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General picture of the panelling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGvLs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;General picture of the panelling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be grateful received. Quite the DIY-car newbie!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9590" LastEditorUserId="13223" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T12:44:15.013" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T11:35:21.380" Title="Vauxhall Astra Rear Jet Washer" Tags="|vauxhall|opel|windshield-washer|astra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T14:41:49.370" Score="2" ViewCount="3649" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the normal fuel consumption for injection type Toyota carina e 1.6 cc &#xA;4A engine?&#xA;My 1995 Toyota Carina e car gives 9.5km/l in city and 12&#xA;km/l on highways.&#xA;How can I increase it more? toyota carina e 1995 model 1.6cc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9592" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T17:59:49.773" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T08:20:36.537" Title="What is the normal fuel consumption for a 1995 Toyota Carina E 1.6 CC 4A engine?" Tags="|toyota|fuel-consumption|carina|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2015-03-01T14:53:11.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To anyone having poor heat or over heat problems with chevy motors 3.5l v6 and 3.4l and any other close to these. Go to Route 66 hot rod high friggin heat problems I did this on my chevy uplander.with a 3.5l v6 cost me under $20 and about half hour of work not 2or 3k at dealer go read this try it I have good heat and was able to bleed all air to get rid of overheat problem. Give it a try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9593" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T14:53:11.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15678" CreationDate="2015-03-01T20:52:23.320" Score="4" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2005 Honda Civic DX, 166k miles. My clutch was having problems over the past few weeks, it would shudder the entire car when i would let it out from 1st and 2nd gear. It has since stopped and is now operating normally. Should I get it repaired or just live with it and hope it doesn't happen in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9596" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-01T22:59:25.933" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T20:24:37.163" Title="To repair or not repair?" Tags="|honda|clutch|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T22:44:41.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know the block heater in my 2009 Honda Civic is working?  Does it make anoise when connected to a power source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9598" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:59:04.630" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:59:04.630" Title="Block Heater Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|block-heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T23:28:22.247" Score="1" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy I bought my car from rearended somebody and since was leaking power steering fluid so he drained it. Will that burn out the pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9599" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:59:14.193" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:14:58.847" Title="will running my 89 accord without power steering fluid burn out my pump?" Tags="|honda|accord|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17596" CreationDate="2015-03-02T00:27:09.263" Score="5" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 that is having a problem with one of its headlights. When I turn on the headlights, frequently one is not lighting. If I go to the front and give the lens a quick knock, it turns on and stays on until I turn the headlights off.  It doesn't flicker or show signs of a loose connection. I have cleaned the connector and that hasn't helped. I'm out of ideas at this point and hope someone can suggest a next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9600" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T14:29:36.913" Title="Saturn Headlight Problem" Tags="|electrical|headlight|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15671" CreationDate="2015-03-02T01:19:43.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of two block heaters which actually get the job done (there is a kind which attaches to the oil pan to heat the oil, but I do not see this working very well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first type is the kind which replaces a freeze plug in the engine block. I believe this is the main kind which you can get for Hondas from the manufacturer (at least I've seen them offered by Honda for their vehicles). These do not make an inherent noise when working. You should be able to feel them heat up right after you put power to them though. I don't think I'd keep a finger on them for too long, though, because I bet it would burn them for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second type is the kind which goes inline in the heater coolant hose. Once this type is working for a while and the coolant starts getting warm, you'll hear it as coolant is being pushed by the heating action. There will be an intermittent boiling bubble sound coming from it (don't know how else to describe it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, there isn't any motor or anything which pushes the water around, so you'll hear no motor or pump making any kind of whirring noise. These heaters use convection to move the coolant around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T01:19:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15671" CreationDate="2015-03-02T01:19:57.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can follow the power cord back to the heater you should be able to determine what type heater you have. A true block heater will be installed in the block, usually in place of a freeze plug. You may also have a coolant heater which in typically mounted in a radiator hose. The hose is cut, the heater is clamped between the hose ends. You may also have an oil heater. Oil heaters come in several types. The simplest is a dipstick that contains a heating element that replaces the factory dipstick. It may also be  attached directly to the oil pan either on the outside or internally. How long it needs to be plugged in to feel a temperature difference will depend on the size of the heater and the outside temperature. I would think  an hour of being powered on will result in a noticeable difference that you can feel with your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T01:19:57.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15677" CreationDate="2015-03-02T02:27:47.880" Score="1" ViewCount="2948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure i'm in right place or wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planing buy Tacoma pickup. So i'm researching about it's parts. But problem is English is not my natural language. I don't know how you call that cover part of trunk. If you still don't get what I asked watch this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhJ3wL8vozA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhJ3wL8vozA&lt;/a&gt; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9601" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:17:13.903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:17:13.903" Title="How you call pickup truck's trunk cover?" Tags="|truck|pick-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15676" CreationDate="2015-03-02T04:41:23.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The truck in that video has a &lt;em&gt;cap&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;camper shell&lt;/em&gt;. The cargo area of a pickup truck is usually called the &lt;em&gt;bed&lt;/em&gt;; &lt;em&gt;trunk&lt;/em&gt; is the rear luggage area on a passenger car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T04:41:23.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15670" CreationDate="2015-03-02T06:17:19.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Here's an opinion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look at the clutch as an expendable item.  It has a life span, similar to a break pad.  I've typically called them consumables.  Chains and sprockets on motorcycles, brake pads, clutches and timing belts on cars...they all have a lifespan that is relatively short in comparison to the core of the vehicle, like the frame and body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the clutch, it's a part of the cost of owning a vehicle.  The amount of mileage on it is irrelevant.  The ability of the car to do it's job is.  If the vehicle is falling apart and this is just another component that is failing on a long list, you might want to cut your losses and get rid of it.  If it's been relatively reliable and has continued to perform it's duty of getting you from point A to point B then perhaps it's good investment to keep your reliable vehicle continuing to be a reliable vehicle.  Good luck, hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T06:17:19.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15680" CreationDate="2015-03-02T06:47:01.870" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;My toyota corolla CE110 brake performance is not to the expectation, it takes an unusual amount of distance and requires comparatively hard braking to get it to stop. I had checked it by a mechanic and according to him it's all normal, but when I compare it with my friend's car it's not. So I was wondering if I fit high performance brake pads and discs will it fix the issue. I'm sure out of factory products are not available for this model (as it's too old now), so I might have to do a custom order for both brake discs and for pads. Before going and finding suppliers is there any other way to improve the braking performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T11:30:35.277" Title="custom built silicon carbide discs" Tags="|toyota|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15679" CreationDate="2015-03-02T08:38:45.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Opinion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of high performance pads and calipers seems like a very high cost for such an issue.  If you believe that the mechanic is correct and that there are no issues with the OEM products then perhaps looking for alternatives is sensible option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this.  When this Toyota rolled of the showroom floor and didn't stop well, is that the way that Toyota really designed this vehicle?  I think, probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the vehicle to another mechanic that shows humility and has the ability to say, &amp;quot;I'm not sure what's wrong&amp;quot; and get a brake job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it yourself would require a bit of research and some basic tools but you could pull it off for a very nominal cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the discs turned or buy new ones.  Turning your discs is essentially getting a new surfaced machined to the discs.  Most issues with a disc regarding glazing or mild warping will be rectified and the disc can then be 'bedded in' to a new set of pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get new pads for your new disc surface.  Avoid high speed braking for a bit and allow them to mate together.  The surface of the pad and disc will become 'mated' over time and match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a rebuilt master cylinder.  The master cylinder is the force behind the braking.  When you push the pedal it interacts with the master cylinder that performs the hydraulic work of displacing fluid in the system that pushing the caliper cylinder out, thus squeezing the disc with the brake pads.  If the master cylinder is going bad then your brakes will be miserable.  You can procure a refurbished one for a nominal cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T11:30:35.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15661" CreationDate="2015-03-02T08:41:46.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your suspension is bent up and is a big mess.  Goto a mechanic and get an estimate before it flies apart and injures you or innocent bystanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a wheel shaking, off camber and out of alignment while you drive down the road.  This is not trivial.  Imagine only one of your front brakes working well and you have to panic stop for a crosswalk filled with kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hurry, call a tow truck and have it taken to a shop.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T08:41:46.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15666" CreationDate="2015-03-02T09:53:48.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds about right for that model. The only things you could do is make the car as light and easy running as possible, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the spare tyre and carry a patch kit and air compressor instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fill your fuel tank only 50%. This should save a good 20kg to 25kg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go on a diet ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get alloy wheels if you don't have already&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inflate your tyres properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take it to a tuner to remap the engine management unit. They usually&#xA;lean out the air/fuel ratio to give you a bit more performance, but&#xA;at the same time a leaner air/fuel ratio means you're using less fuel&#xA;per cylinder stroke. This will make the car run slightly hotter, but&#xA;seeing as it's not a turbo vehicle, it's not a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T09:53:48.513" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T10:46:16.983" Score="5" ViewCount="2882" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago my Subaru Forester's driver's window (RHD) developed this habit of not opening when I push the switch, or sometimes I push the switch, then nothing happens for a couple of seconds, then all of a sudden the window opens. Other times it works normally, i.e. I push the switch and the window opens immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some helpful info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We haven't had any rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't hear any funny and expensive noises before this started happening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't install a new battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is fine. I can start the car without problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear windows also sometimes don't work. Although They've never &quot;hesitated&quot;. They simply don't work or they work perfectly. This is a normal Subaru problem caused by dirty switches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T13:30:23.953" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:18:33.097" Title="07 Subaru Forester XT Electric window working intermittently" Tags="|electrical|subaru|power-windows|forester|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T11:16:17.453" Score="4" ViewCount="81710" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had back brakes and rotors replaced a week ago, came home from church yesterday and there was this horrible smell and smoke coming from passenger side back brake area what could me the cause for this. Can I drive it at least back to the place that fixed it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9604" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T18:22:01.857" Title="back brakes smoke" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15684" CreationDate="2015-03-02T12:55:39.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I had replaced my rear brakes with ceramic pads and new rotors. Later that day I was driving out of town and noticed exactly what you are describing. I pulled over to the side and pulled the rear tire off to see what the problem was, thinking it was a stuck caliper or something. When I got it off, I noticed there was nothing wrong. Nothing was dragging, the smoke had stopped, and all was well. I don't know if this is your exact case, but would bet it probably is. Drive the car back to the place where you had it done and have them inspect it for you. I will bet there is nothing wrong, but it doesn't hurt to have it reinspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T12:55:39.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T13:06:31.543" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ford fiesta 2001 model and when I brake the steering wheel vibrates up and down not side ways I have had the alignment done and checked the ball joints and CV joints that is fine as well as the wheel bearings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9606" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T14:23:12.383" Title="I have a 2001 ford fiesta that when I brake the steering wheel vibrates up and down not side ways" Tags="|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15789" CreationDate="2015-03-02T13:28:22.277" Score="3" ViewCount="25161" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some weeks now my mother-in-law's Peugeot 207 (2009 model I think) shows a wrong outside temperature. While the actual outdoor temperature has been somewhere around freezing (0°C) the temperature display showed something like -7°C to -12°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not static but floats by some degrees up and down over the time the car is in use. First I thought it's just off by some 10°C or so, but it seems to be more complicated: Even if the car was parked in an underground parking for some hours where the temperature is surely around 10°C or warmer, the sensor then displays some -7°C or so. So to me it looks like it's some combined offset and proportionality issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can try out myself to narrow things down or something that I can try to fix myself (connectors that could have gone loose or stuff like that)? If yes, where would I have to search? Or is this likely to be a software issue that needs a mechanic and special equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9607" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:08:09.747" Title="Outside temperature displays wrong values in Peugeot 207" Tags="|sensor|peugeot|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15684" CreationDate="2015-03-02T16:23:05.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that they didn't adjust the pistons or emergency brake mechanism properly. If you jack the car up, can you freely turn the wheel, or is it stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T16:23:05.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15684" CreationDate="2015-03-02T16:50:38.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you have a stuck caliper.  Basically this means that your brake pad is stuck pressing on your rotor just like if you had your foot on the brake pedal constantly. This causes a lot of friction which leads to overheated brakes and the lovely odor that accompanies it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place that did your brakes probably forgot to clean or lube some parts in your caliper or just put it back together wrong.  You may be lucky enough that it will free itself up and it will work just fine again, but there is no guarantee it will stay that way.  Take it back to them and have them fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as driving it there goes, I would not.  Overheated brakes can heat up the brake fluid in your lines and potentially boil it.  If it boils, you lose your ability to brake at all (except with the hand brake).  I would not risk driving a car that I couldn't stop.  Call the shop and explain to them what is going on and get them to tow it or pay for a tow.  They can't expect you to drive a death trap back to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4088" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T16:50:38.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15698" CreationDate="2015-03-02T16:51:58.493" Score="4" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is looking to replace the engine in his older Chevy '85 K10 pickup and found this engine &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353/overview/year/1985/make/chevrolet/model/k10&quot;&gt;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353/overview/year/1985/make/chevrolet/model/k10&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the 190-250hp enough if it is a smaller truck and he is looking to just tow some smaller things, and get around without a need for a ton of speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end he will be looping in a family member that will help him with the install and is a mechanic, but we were just trying to get an idea before then. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9609" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:16:50.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:16:50.677" Title="Replacing an engine in a Chevy pickup ('85 K10). Is 190hp enough?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T17:10:32.323" Score="4" ViewCount="36123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping around for new tires, and at least one vendor is adding a &quot;TPMS Rebuild Kit&quot; to the cart by default. For a set of 4 tires, this adds $30 to the out-the-door cost. However, the item can be removed from the cart which leads me to believe it may not really be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the justification given for the part on the vendor's site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rebuilding the valve portion of the TPMS sensor insures an air tight seal and reduces the chance of early sensor replacement due to wear and corrosion of the components exposed to the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first car I've had with a TPMS, and the first time I've done a four-tire replacement for it. I did have to replace one tire early on due to road damage, but don't remember any mention of &quot;TPMS Rebuild&quot; at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that's really needed for every tire change, or should I only worry about it if I'm actually experiencing problems with the TPMS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:18:01.030" Title="TPMS Rebuild Kit - Do I need it for a normal tire change if I don't have TPMS problems?" Tags="|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="305" CreationDate="2015-03-02T17:29:29.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem out here in the pacific NW. It's the temperature change that makes the moisture 30-50deg causes condensation inside. You need to get it undercover and a fan or heat to circulate the air. That's the only way to keep it from molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9611" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:36:21.240" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:36:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15691" CreationDate="2015-03-02T17:43:50.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a o-ring seal that is replaced on the inside of the rim. If your not currently having tpms problems you should be ok as long as the tire installed does not damage the sensor. Many different types are out there band type ford, and valve stem type most common. Also it will need to be calibrated or recognized by the vehicle once installed. Like on chevy front left front right etc. It's standard procedure for them to replace the seals so you don't have a problem but do you really need it. I would say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9611" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T17:43:50.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15684" CreationDate="2015-03-02T17:53:31.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you have a brake flush done when your brakes were serviced? If not you smoked a caliper. I'm assuming it is disc brakes system. If the pads were worn very thin the piston in the caliper will sometimes stick and not return. I've seen it a few times and usually it's from moisture in the brake fluid. It will be black or green which is bad! Normal fluid is Amber in color. Brake fluid flush is very important. Keeps everything working properly. Heat from the pads get absorbed into the line and boils the water causing etching of the piston and then it hangs up. I'd have it towed in. If the rotor is that hit you will need a new one and a caliper and if it's a rear wheel drive the axle seal will need to be replaced. It happens they should correct it at your cost of the caliper. Which you should do both sides and the flex line as well and flush the brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9611" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T17:53:31.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12966" CreationDate="2015-03-02T19:57:36.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strangely, after about 1500 miles the problem went away. I'm not sure why this is, though I was told by the individual that helped me with the replacement that new pumps sometimes require a &quot;break in&quot; period. I haven't heard that opinion echoed anywhere else, however it seems to have been the case for me... If it changes I will update! Thanks again for comments and answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T19:57:36.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15670" CreationDate="2015-03-02T20:24:37.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That shudder does not have to be from the clutch.  I had a broken ball joint and that caused a shudder when accelerating at low speeds.  A clutch issue should affect the car at all speeds, but it really depends on severity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T20:24:37.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15690" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:01:25.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more  modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to be performance vehicles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:01:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:05:14.747" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle was recently in a accident involving a raccon (go figure) and did a lot of damage. I already had it checked out and they said it needed alot body work and possible wheel alignment. However this morning I kept hearing a clicking sound when I turned my windshield wipers on and it would immediately stop when I turned them off. I even tried pressing on the brakes when going at fast speeds and at low speeds but no clicking. I was wondering what this could be and if it may be serious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9615" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T01:00:51.267" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T01:00:51.267" Title="Clicking of Brakes" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15691" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:18:01.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to consider when having TPMS service are the age of the sensors and the cost of replacement  without a tire purchase. Some sensors are serviceable. The valve core can be replaced along with the battery and the &quot;O&quot; ring. Most models have a life expectancy of 7-8 years. Talk to the tire retailer and find out what they charge for a repair with out a tire purchase. If your vehicle age is close to the sensor life expectancy you may want to consider the service. As you can imagine service on a wheel after the fact may cost $30 for a single wheel. If you are in the 2-3 year old range I would pass on the service this time . The exception to this is if you live in the rust belt and have alloy wheels that see winter a lot of road  salt. Corrosion can be an issue around the valve stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:18:01.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T22:14:39.083" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is missing particularly whenever ur going up hill or in any case where u have to give it more gas. I've replaced plugs, caps, Cool Pak's. Ignition module, tps sensor, mass air flow sensor and still have the same problem it almost cleared up for a few hrs after I replaced the ignition module. Could the crank sensor be causing all this? My car is a 1997 but Buick skylark 2.4 limited addition.   Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9616" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T22:47:53.630" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:47:53.630" Title="over loading, missfiring" Tags="|engine|buick|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T06:43:44.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15699" CreationDate="2015-03-02T22:37:25.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was any damage to the hood or the left side front quarter panel it could have bent a cowl or some other shroud near your wiper motor or wiper connector arms (hidden under the cowl at the bottom of your windshield). If it's a small interference it could be &quot;clicking&quot; past it rather than totally being stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try running the wipers without the engine on and get outside to locate the sound more precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:37:25.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2015-03-02T22:38:35.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try these steps replace cooling temp sensor... install new hoses top and bottom radiator hose along with any other smaller hoses chk if real soft rubbery feeling its time to change if stiff slighty pinchable then they good..second replace radiator per it can be clogged and not allow proper water flow..leave cap off make sure fill with antifreeze and start car allow it to warm up and watch u should be able to see the water flow this will allow the air to come out per air pockets are a big cause...now buy a new radiator cap per this also small but cause a big prob...also while watching the water flow flow if bubbles stay present it could be head gasket this pushes combustion gas thru and can cause antifreeze to dicipate hence why u keep having to put more unless yur pump leaking or hose this the only other way u will get low on anti freeze...hope this helps it took me a while to figure out so i didnt have to spend lots of cash on a mech that wouldnt probably now this either top secrets lol...they wont tell u its all biz...hope this helps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9617" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:38:35.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15644" CreationDate="2015-03-02T22:50:32.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a timing problem, clogged exhaust or bad fuel.  The exhaust or the fuel are the easiest to check. As far as the timing, the engine may run fine when not under load (sitting in park/neutral), but when in gear the timing must advance.  You may have a bad timing sensor and/or a worn timing belt.  If the belt was broken, the engine won't even run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later model Rangers don't have timing belts. They just use  a few sensors and some gapped wheels with computers to set the timing and fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T22:50:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4805" CreationDate="2015-03-03T00:14:13.240" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;change thermostat that will fix problem. our 2007 impala had no heat @ idle before replacing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9619" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T00:14:13.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15709" CreationDate="2015-03-03T01:47:48.497" Score="5" ViewCount="15976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a really weird situation. I have a BMW 325i(2002). I bought it second hand and I have been driving it for 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lately I have been having to tap my oil every 500 miles with 2 quarts. I did talk to a local mechanic and he said that with age, this happens to all German cars. My point is that still every 500 miles is still a LOT. May be I am wrong and this is very common. However, I want to know how common is it. If not, what are my options. I am pretty sure there is no leak in my car because I never see a single droplet in my drive way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am suspecting two possible scenario&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an internal leak where oil is leaking into internal parts and the evaporates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are chances of extreme oil burning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, This car has 130,000 miles on it and I am not driving it more than 4000 miles a year. I only use it for my commute which is 4.5 miles one way and for little errands. However, My puzzle is that why does it happen? Should I take to to BMW for a comprehensive check? I really am less interested in spending a lot of money on this car since it is really old and am worried that BMW will push for a costly solution. Any ideas on hos to proceed with this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9620" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T07:26:33.237" Title="My car doesn't leak oil but I have to tap it off every 500 miles" Tags="|oil|bmw|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T03:27:52.213" Score="5" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 300,  it had 170000 miles on it. When I test drove it nothing felt wrong what so ever. Week later it started turning off by itself in the middle of the freeway or alleys. Got it fixed. But now when I am at a red light with my foot on the brake, the RPM doesn't go down to idle rpm at all. &amp;amp; it wants to take off on its own while my foot is still on the brake. It gets real shaky &amp;amp; it makes a loud engine noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It just recently started happening as soon as it got to 200k. Is it my transmission ?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9621" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:18:12.027" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:18:12.027" Title="High Idle and Engine Noise in Chrysler 300c Hemi" Tags="|engine|idle|surging|chrysler-300c|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-06-22T05:59:18.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15707" CreationDate="2015-03-03T07:27:00.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The culprit is usually shot piston rings. They act as a buffer between the combustion chamber and the bottom half of the engine. If they go, oil can seep into the combustion chamber and get burned up along with the fuel. To fix this, they'd have to take the entire engine apart to get at the bottom of the pistons. It's not a cheap procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe you're lucky and it turns out to be an external leak which just requires a new seal put in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=882732&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that details the usual places your specific car would spring a leak. Though to be fair, those places are the same on just about all brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A leakdown test should tell you whether the cylinder is leaking. An experienced mechanic should also be able to tell from the state of your spark plugs whether something is getting into the chamber that shouldn't. E.g. a dirty plug means oil, a suspiciously clean plug means antifreeze (blown headgasket), a melted plug means a broken fuel injector, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T07:26:33.237" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T07:26:33.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T08:06:43.847" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know if my head or black is damaged. Recently my Toyota Verso 1.6 VVTi 2006 Model overheated when I checked the water from the radiator I realised that there was white greasy thing on the radiator cap. That's when I realised that there's something wrong. My wife was driving the car always and I only picked it up later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I checked the dip stick it was fine, but not sure whether to take the block to engineering or recon my engine. Please help as I don't have the history of the car as we bought it second hand, not sure if the head was sent in to engineering to be skeemed or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best solution to make sure I'm doing the right thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9390" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:52:04.233" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T12:52:04.233" Title="Toyota Verso 1.6 VVTi 2006 Overheating 7 Not coming on" Tags="|starting|ignition|lights|speedometer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T04:22:08.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T09:58:44.800" Score="3" ViewCount="3777" Body="&lt;p&gt;So twice this has happened, and the first time it was much more violent. So far I have replace the upper control arm &quot;inner&quot; bushings on the right side but today it happened again, but not as bad, and it may just be because I wasn't going nearly as fast. The power steering fluid is full. I replaced my rack with a used one about 6 months ago. It was in good condition but the mechanic I had helping me complained about how he couldn't do it, wanted to buy it, so a week later I walk in and within an hour or so I get the last line hooked up. What do you know while I'm under the car he dumps brake fluid in it and fills it up. It's either the left side bushings, upper ball joints, outer tie rods or cv joints.. because recently and most likely unrelated, when I make a U-Turn or very sharp turn i hear a ticking like something is in a bind. I've had the car for seven years and it's lowered but I've never had any issues. A couple months ago I found that my struts weren't even hand tight as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T10:13:49.387" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:53:53.213" Title="Why is my car tramlining(pulling/veering when I hit road imperfections)?" Tags="|suspension|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T17:42:00.003" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetical: If someone had a non operational vehicle and ignored tags/registration for a few years, what is the best way to dispose of the vehicle and avoid having to back pay all the missed years and penalties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming if the car was sold, then the tags would have to be brought up to current thus paying all past years and penalties on top of the new tags to make the car current.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if the car is junked and it's just towed away to a scrap heap?  If a collector comes knocking can the person just say that they don't have the car anymore and its been junked so that's why nothing was ever paid...case closed and slate wiped clean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case it wasn't clear from the title, this hypothetical is based on California law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9624" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:05:46.670" Title="CA: Dispose of car with past due tags/registration?" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-03T22:39:41.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15722" CreationDate="2015-03-03T18:13:15.137" Score="6" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car, a 97 Mazda 323, burns about a liter of oil per 1000 kilometers, mostly start and stop city driving.  Sometimes I see a puff on start-up and sometimes I see smoke while accelerating, but it's intermittent. So I figure that both the valve seals and the oil rings are probably worn ( even though the car supposedly had a head job about four or five years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, to what extent does this really matter, beyond the cost of the oil burned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T08:50:13.937" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T08:50:13.937" Title="Do I really need to care if my car burns oil?" Tags="|oil|mazda|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15848" CreationDate="2015-03-03T18:23:27.880" Score="3" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323&lt;/a&gt; get's up to normal operating temperature, around say 90 C, the RPM's will occasionally nosedive after taking it out of gear, releasing the clutch and letting off the gas.  What I mean is that they'll dive down to around 200, nearly stalling, and either bounce for a bit between 200 to 750, or rev back up to around 1500 and settle back to normal 750 idle.  A little more rarely it will result in an actual stall.  Rarely in this case meaning maybe once a day, in about 50 kilometers of city driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I noticed is that if I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; release the clutch, the RPM's will stay stable.  I've also noticed that as the ambient air temp increases the frequency of the problem increases as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took off the throttle body and this is what it looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KcvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IAC passage didn't look particularly dirty, but I sprayed some carb cleaner into it from both the manifold side and the intake pipe without taking it off the throttle body.  I also cleaned the throttle plate and sprayed some cleaner into the very nasty, dirty manifold for good measure.  I also reset the ECU after doing this and it seems that the problem has been solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T20:26:56.560" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T20:26:56.560" Title="Falling RPM's and Stalls after Releasing the Clutch" Tags="|mazda|idle|stall|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15712" CreationDate="2015-03-03T21:05:46.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A non-profit radio station called KCRW in Santa Monica will accept your car for donation and give you a tax credit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kcrw.com/join/donate-your-car-motorcycle-or-boat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vehicle donation page, KCRW&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:05:46.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2015-03-03T21:10:02.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the clutch may be slipping during engagement.  Depending on the brand there are ways to adjust the automatic clutch to engage at a lower RPM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:10:02.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2015-03-03T21:43:35.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iridium will fire under more extreme conditions than other plugs, they came out of top fuel racing and onto the street for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9627" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:43:35.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15753" CreationDate="2015-03-03T22:49:19.967" Score="4" ViewCount="2400" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2007 Toyota Corolla, I am getting very loud road noise when driving, unless my wheels are turned left. This is happening on the studded Winter tires (louder, obviously), and my Summer tires, both on their own rims. If I turn the steering wheel just a little to the left, the noise goes away, and the car is quiet again. The noise seems to be coming from the front of the vehicle, and the vehicle doesn't seem to rumble when I hear the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I start looking to diagnose where the noise is coming from and fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9628" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T20:57:03.403" Title="Excessive road noise in Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15714" CreationDate="2015-03-03T23:27:20.320" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said &quot;valve gaskets&quot; but I'm going to assume you actually mean the &lt;em&gt;valve seals&lt;/em&gt;. Since you are seeing a small puff of smoke sometimes during startup and when you are accelerating, these are usually caused by two separate issues, both of which you are mentioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start-up puff of smoke can usually be attributed to bad valve seals. This is because oil will leak past them after engine shutdown. It then either pools on the back of the valves (if closed) or drips down past the valves onto the piston (if closed). When you start up the car, the oil burns off and causes the puff of smoke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoke on acceleration can usually be attributed worn oil control rings not doing their job and allowing oil to pass by them and into the combustion chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the issues which you could be causing is that the oil will eventually plug your catalytic converter (if it's still installed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T23:27:20.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15725" CreationDate="2015-03-04T05:21:17.237" Score="4" ViewCount="18272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed new ball joints tonight. One side went in great. But one of the ball joints, when I was putting it in with the press, the rubber grease boot got pinched and ripped a tiny bit. And some grease came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do or do I have to pop it out and put a new one in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really bummed about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for kicks, here is what the new one looks like compared to the old one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEx4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I ended up taking out the ball joint and installing a new one. Put me back an extra $50, but in the end I'd rather do that then do this over again in 6 months. Also for the record, this is a 2000 Ford Taurus. Thanks for all the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4922" LastEditorUserId="4922" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T04:45:27.690" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T01:00:52.120" Title="Is there any way to replace a ripped ball joint boot?" Tags="|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15714" CreationDate="2015-03-04T07:53:06.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this same question to the workshop that performed the headjob on one of my cars and they said that apart from a bit of smoke, it wouldn't be anything to worry about. As long as there is enough oil in the engine. They could have told me to give them more money, but they didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T07:53:06.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15723" CreationDate="2015-03-04T08:22:41.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, once the boot is torn, you can't really patch or repair them, as whatever repair you make will be weak and tear again quite rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only option is going to be to get a new boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T08:22:41.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15723" CreationDate="2015-03-04T08:23:21.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the make and model maybe. Check on line at Dorman auto parts. They sell a large selection of oddball replacement parts. The other option is to use the old one from the original balljoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T08:23:21.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19672" CreationDate="2015-03-04T19:45:32.623" Score="8" ViewCount="3764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I ruin my dashboard/car, I wanted to know if my approach is correct.  I don't know much about cars but logically, it seems like a simple enough task to remove vents, reach in and grab items, replace vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some items fell down the center air vents in my car.  I want to get them out for various reasons.  I was thinking of two approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the center dash and reach in to grab them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the glove compartment, remove the cabin air filter and see if I can reach items in the center vent area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this plastic tool mentioned in forums to pry the dash and/or push clips in the dash to open it.  I found on forums and youtube videos how to remove the center air vents in my car but I wanted to know once I get it open, how far do I have to reach into the internals to retrieve the items or can the items move to other areas in the vent system and it would take more effort to track them down than just opening the vent and reaching in?&#xA;The items are some coins from a preschooler, a small spring, and a plastic holder thing from a GPS holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both of these ideas are dumb, is there another way I can get to these items.  The less work, the better since I don't know much about cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastEditorUserId="3332" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T16:02:44.577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:07:41.073" Title="How to get items out of the HVAC system from a 2003-2007 Honda Accord" Tags="|honda|ac|accord|hvac|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14929" CreationDate="2015-03-05T00:49:40.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a theory perspective, I would say it is nearly impossible that a bad battery, all by itself, can cause an alternator to fail. The only condition I can even think of would be if the battery developed a short, but even for that to cause the alternator to fail, there would have to be some other problem in the system, such as a bypassed fuse or something of that nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T00:49:40.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:30:52.347" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2004 Toyota Tundra (8 cyl) has been sitting for 10 months with about 7 gallons of gas in fuel tank. Should gas be removed before starting truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9636" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T01:30:52.347" Title="2004ToyotaTundra sitting 10 months" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-05T01:59:02.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:49:30.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is called bump steer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common Causes include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect tie rod height or lenght&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bent steering parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;structural damage to the vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since it was recently replaced. Make sure it's level and make sure the tie rod ends are not bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T01:49:30.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15596" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:51:51.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you won't go far wrong by following Ducati Killers' advice.&#xA;I started motorcycling in the mid fifties when every new or rebuild had to be &quot;run in&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The best advice I can offer is don't red line it untill you have at least 1,500 miles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Change the oil and filter every 500 miles for the first 1,500.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't let the engine &quot;labour&quot; keep it spinning, no hard acceleration.&#xA;I personally would use synthetic (I use Ams Oil).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9637" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T11:23:56.877" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T11:23:56.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15665" CreationDate="2015-03-05T10:54:48.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a Haynes manual or similar for the car? They usually describe how to remove the various bits of trim...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before trying to remove the trim, have you tried cleaning the nozzle out with the tip of a needle or a fine bit of wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom photo shows the trim to be in four parts - the window surround (two parts), the lower panel and the lock surround. I suspect they will overlap so you'll have to remove them in the reverse order. Under the small cap to the left of the latch in your photo, will be a screw. There will probably be one in the handhold as well. Removing these should allow the small panel to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two will probably be secured with push-fit clips - which are a pain to remove as you'll almost certainly break some of them! The usual method is to gently prise the edge of the panel off using a flat object (wallpaper scrapers are good...), attempt to ascertain where the clips are, then insert a large flat-bladed screwdriver near the clips and use it to prise them out of their holes - being as careful as possible not to break too many of them... Once you have one or two out you can usually get your fingers behind the panel which makes the rest a bit easier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T10:54:48.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:47:22.653" Score="2" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, it has about 118000 thousand miles on the engine, lately it is taching up to over 2000RPM only when i put it in park or neutral. Once i put it into drive or any other gear, it comes down to earth at around 1000 rpm give or take. What would be things that would cause this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9641" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:58:51.437" Title="Engine Reving Up in Park and Neutral?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2015-03-05T17:00:20.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this problem on our 2006 Dodge Ram we took it to a mechanic he hooked it up and sent it new codes bc it need an update and it fixed the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9642" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T17:00:20.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T20:52:39.703" Score="3" ViewCount="19016" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Hyundai failed inspection because the OBD-II system is in a &quot;not ready&quot; state.  The mechanic asked if my battery had died recently. It had, after getting an alignment. He suggested driving on the highway for 60 miles or so. After doing this I got tested again and failed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said I had one final chance to pass. I have 5 days left on my temporary inspection paper. What can I do? Take my car to a dump if it fails again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9644" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T02:09:06.827" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T14:57:16.997" Title="Failed inspection on because of OBD2 readiness" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|emissions|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15738" CreationDate="2015-03-05T21:21:48.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following: Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge &quot;No Flow&quot;, Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears. Reprinted  courtesy of General Motors Corporation  While this is sourced by GM I believe it is applicable to all OBD II vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:21:48.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15738" CreationDate="2015-03-05T23:16:10.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every car's OBDII diagnostic is going to be slightly different (between manufacturers, anyway), but you should not be dismayed. You have five days until you fail your test, which is more than enough time to ensure your vehicle will be OBDII ready. This of course, does not mean if there is an underlying problem it won't cause you to fail for a different reason (like a bad cat or something). With that said, ensure you are driving your vehicle every day until you can take it back for the retest. When you drive it, ensure you run the vehicle up to operating temperature and then drive it for several miles (10-20 miles) to ensure the system is doing it's self checks. If you give it several days, it will reset. If you want to have it checked before you take it to the station, you can take it to an AutoZone, Advance Auto, or the like. If you do take it to a place like that to have them check the status, &lt;strong&gt;ENSURE THEY DO NOT RESET THE SYSTEM!!&lt;/strong&gt; If they do, you'll be back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just takes a little time and a few system cycles. The key here is to run the car to fully warm, drive for a while, then allow it to fully cool before you go on your next drive. You can do several of these in a day and get to a &quot;good&quot; state sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T23:16:10.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15743" CreationDate="2015-03-06T03:35:15.253" Score="2" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a camera security system that would provide a dashcam but also be able to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;record what is happening behind my car (like a backup camera, except this one would record while I am driving forward).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;record the interior (backseat) of a car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;record the audio inside the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;store the last 10-30 minutes of video, sort of like a black box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because I was planning on starting to drive for uber or lyft and thought that cameras would be good for safety (both mine and the customers, e.g. if we are rear-ended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that something like this would already exist in limos (or other cars used by paranoid rich folks). Would it be possible to have something like this installed e.g. by some customization shop, or would this be &quot;too custom&quot; (because of the hardware requirements)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9244" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T05:02:13.053" Title="Is there a camera system for cars that can record the front, rear, and inside of the car at the same time?" Tags="|car|security|camera|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-06T16:12:42.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15742" CreationDate="2015-03-06T05:02:13.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;GoPro has a multicamera configuration where you can align the time and merge all of the feeds into a multi screen single interface feed.  They store the video centrally in a wifi enabled storage device using 802.11g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the commercial solutions are cost prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T05:02:13.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-06T10:30:15.793" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my car began to make very loud noises whenever I used the brakes.&#xA;At first, I didn't suspect the brake pads because I thought they were still able to undergo a few thousand kilometre. To be sure, I checked the pads and the discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left wheel, inside : No pad. Metal against metal, disc feels like a vinyl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left wheel, outside : Pad OK (3/4 left), disc OK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right wheel, inside : 1/4 pad left, disc OK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right wheel, outside : Pad OK (3/4 left), disc OK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know why the inside left pad could have gone so quickly?&#xA;I have metal swarf (glitter?) everywhere. When I check the disc with my finger, it feels very rough and uneven, worse than an old vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered new brake pads, but I don't know if I should change the discs as well. My car is very old and near death (Renault, 380.000 km). I only use it for very short distances, and it never reaches more than about 100 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this would be a safety concern? I'm thinking the pads will take the shape of the disc and wear out more quickly, but this isn't a problem for me, as long as security is not involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9645" LastEditorUserId="9645" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T12:34:51.217" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T20:39:58.680" Title="Should I replace the disc?" Tags="|brakes|safety|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15744" CreationDate="2015-03-06T11:45:13.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't be a &quot;security&quot; concern, but it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;em&gt;safety&lt;/em&gt; concern. You are talking about your safety and the safety of those around you. If your vehicle does not stop as it should, your reaction time is increased, so you will not be stopping as soon as you would think you should, which could cause unanticipated results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that you update the pads &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; rotors. This will most likely be the last time you'll have to do it on this car. While getting the car to go is great, stopping the vehicle is much more important. You are right that the pad will wear out quicker. If you don't want to pay for the cost of replacing the rotors, you could see if there is enough of the rotors left to resurface them. You should do one or the other in order to perform a viable brake job. The thing about resurfacing, though, is that to get this done will cost about the same (probably just a little less) than replacing them. While this may save you a little money, personally I opt for replacement in most cases just considering what my time is worth. If I have to spend time to take the rotors to a shop to get them replaced, is that worth what the difference would be if I just got a brand new set from the parts store while I'm there getting the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention how long this set of pads had been on the vehicle, but obviously the inside wore quicker on both sides. I'm fairly sure this is because this is the side of the caliper which has the piston. If the caliper doesn't slide very well, it will not equalize the braking between the two pads very well and the inside one will do most of the braking causing it to wear faster. When the brake job is done, ensure the caliper slides are lubed correctly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T11:45:13.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-06T12:20:17.917" Score="4" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1991 Jeep Wrangler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 3 years ago I put LED brake lights on. They worked great until just a couple days ago, when the drivers side stopped working. Shortly after, they started working again with no intervention on my part. They now have stopped  working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can unplug the light and plug it into the passenger side and it works just fine. I have power going to the tips of the connector that go into the light on the drivers side, but it still does not want to work on this plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9646" LastEditorUserId="3766" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T17:21:24.423" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T14:53:48.230" Title="Strange electrical issue with after market brake lights" Tags="|brakes|lights|aftermarket-upgrade|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-06T14:07:11.567" Score="2" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Ford Econoline E200 Van with an 8 cylinder with the present symptoms: It starts and runs great, but once is warmed up, it feels like it is not injecting fuel. It loses power and slows down, or dies ... especially if I drive it uphill. I have to wait 5 minutes to get it to start again. I have replaced the starting coil, gas filter, and the carburetor, and it still is doing the same thing. The gasoline pump seems like is working fine, but ... I need advice. What could be wrong with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9649" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T20:01:48.350" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:57:03.437" Title="1974 Ford Econoline E200 Van acts fuel starved after warm up" Tags="|engine|ford|fuel-system|carburetor|econoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15750" CreationDate="2015-03-06T16:35:05.490" Score="7" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to find replacement fender clips for my car. The OEM part numbers are 01553-09321 (Nissan), 90044-68320 (Toyota), and MR328954 (Mitsubishi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the hole size (7.7mm), and overall length (22mm), which were measured with a calliper. How does this relate to &quot;Stem Length&quot;? That is, what exactly is the stem length? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following picture as an example - am I correct in assuming that the stem length is 9mm?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1MYu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="3766" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T23:40:12.333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T23:40:12.333" Title="In a clip, what does the &quot;Stem Length&quot; mean?" Tags="|trim|plastic|fastener|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15749" CreationDate="2015-03-06T17:20:03.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, 9 is the stem length in the graphic you have pictured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T17:20:03.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2015-03-06T18:57:28.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem twice in my 2001 325CIC (E46) and both times it was the oil sensor going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1479" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T18:57:28.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15744" CreationDate="2015-03-06T20:39:58.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest getting the rotors turned before replacing them (if they haven't been turned too many times before)&#xA;You will save money this way depending on where you get them turned.&#xA;Get new pads on both of the insides, and check the calipers. There is a good chance (depending on how old your vehicle is) that you may need to replace them. Check your brake pads for uneven wear, and check to see if the caliper pistons are retracting properly by compressing them in with a C-Clamp, and feel how resistant they are. All of these things are fairly simple to do, anyone with access to youtube and a patient mentality could easily figure it out themselves.&#xA;Uneven rotors are dangerous, and should be fixed as soon as you have a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T20:39:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15721" CreationDate="2015-03-06T20:45:07.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically a very loud, low rumbling noise means that your wheel bearings are going bad. I'd be willing to bet that depending on how the sound sounds, it is your wheel bearing.&#xA;They are not typically very expensive to fix, but you will most likely need to take it to a shop, because you will need a bearing puller to complete the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T20:45:07.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15747" CreationDate="2015-03-06T22:09:25.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at your engine you will see that in 1974 almost all emission controls were connected to or controlled by a vacuum hose. As the hose ages it cracks and causes vacuum leaks. Many of the components had no vacuum applied until the engine was warm and above idle speed. This can result in good idle and performance cold but a vacuum leak and poor performance when warm. I would start with a close visual inspection, paying particular attention at connections and bends. Check the hoses on the thermostat cover, choke pull off, and the aircleaner snorkel. You can try to disconnect and plug with a golf tee the hoses one at a time and check for improvement. Another old trick was to apply a light throttle while an assistant moves an unlit (but flowing) propane torch near the connections and listen for changes in idle speed. The propane will slightly correct for the lean condition caused by the vacuum leak. Obviously use care if you are doing this in a garage or have any reason to suspect a stray spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T22:09:25.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T01:34:24.283" Score="5" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Subaru Impreza 2.5i (2.5 NA). My car's engine sputters a bit when turning it off. Specifically it seems like the cars engine keeps turning for a little longer right after I remove the keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There don't seem to be any issues starting the car or driving it around. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are no CELs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of that's a little strange in the car's recent history is that I put in premium high octane fuel (the gas station was out of regular). I can't definitively connect the two incidents though. In between doing that and now, I also had to boost the car once since it was really cold. I don't know if the ECU reset with a premium fuel type would do anything... again, can't really connect the two. Its been long enough though that I think everything should be calibrated anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine has &amp;lt; 40,000 km on it and the car is completely stock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some reasons the engine could be sputtering? What could I try to diagnose the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9654" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:19:28.103" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:19:28.103" Title="Subaru Impreza 2.5i - What are reasons my engine would sputter when turning off?" Tags="|engine|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T03:42:45.073" Score="5" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my clutch a few days ago and now it will not engage reverse, 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear but will engage 2nd and 4th with the car on and off. I readjusted the cables but still nothing. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9655" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T01:32:04.347" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T01:32:04.347" Title="2001 GTI not going into reverse, 1st, 3rd, or 5th after clutch replacement" Tags="|transmission|clutch|vw|gti|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15763" CreationDate="2015-03-07T04:36:27.117" Score="4" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am changing the door locks on a 1994 Bonneville SE because they don't work any more (pins won't allow the key to turn all the way).  My only issue right now is that I can't get this lever arm off of the old cylinder to put it on the new cylinder.  I thought that I might have to put my key in to unlock the lock to rotate it and maybe line some stuff up, but the key doesn't work (that's why I'm changing the lock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've linked a picture of the menacing lock rod arm and cylinder.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHZNb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T11:44:22.147" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T11:44:22.147" Title="Remove car door lock lever arm" Tags="|pontiac|door|bonneville|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T06:26:08.377" Score="5" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have a question about a 98 2.0 rt neon.  I am going to get a top/bottom rebuild on it, the block has 260000 km on it.  I have seen rebuild kits on the market anywhere from 300 dollars (ebay specials) to just under 3000 dollars (modern performance).  The modern performance kit is for high horse power applications (500+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is assuming a professional rebuild by a machinist, if I went with the mopar kit but was only looking at tuning up to 220 hp and the cars main use would be day to day driving, how long would a rig like that last (assuming regular maintenance).  My first thought would be that if a new stock engine can get 350000km then a race grade rebuild under low stress would last a crap load longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience/ideas for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can do a lower mileage swap for cheap or swap a 2.4L for more power, but power is not my endgame it's dollar cost per km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9658" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T03:12:53.463" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T12:36:17.953" Title="Rebuild for longevity" Tags="|engine|repair|neon|tuning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15759" CreationDate="2015-03-07T11:18:03.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referencing the photo it appears the retaining clip is still in place. At the 12 o'clock position you will notice a square shaped tag. Lifting the tab away  from the bracket pry the clip in the direction of the small hole that the tab sat in. Again referencing the photo this would be going up. With the amount of corrosion visible I would try to wire brush the surface and soak it with a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Sea Foam etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T11:18:03.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T23:01:37.967" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would this happen? It killed my battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9664" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T00:03:28.753" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T00:03:28.753" Title="One tail light stays on. 2006 Jeep Cherokee" Tags="|jeep|lights|cherokee|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T18:18:56.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15797" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:49:36.717" Score="4" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Ford F-150 Super Cab STX, I find the original backup lights are lacking in lighting up the path I need to drive in reverse, the brake lights do a better job. I already tried replacement LEDs that were touted to be much brighter than the stock 194 bulbs the truck comes with, they were not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to do as add 2 lights like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-Lighting-Accessories/Optilux-1450-Halogen-Bulb-Fog-Light-Lamp-Kit.aspx?t_c=14&amp;amp;t_s=448&amp;amp;t_pt=4242&amp;amp;t_pn=HLAH71010331&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_campaign=shopping&amp;amp;emlprox=out&amp;amp;ppcfon=1&amp;amp;gp=1&amp;amp;gclid=COWXuKXyl8QCFRYdaQodWr0AdQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;set here&lt;/a&gt;. If I do, since the other bulbs, the 194 drew only 25 watts each and these proposed lights draw 55 watts each. I believe this will be an issue. Is this the case if I tie them in with the existing back up light circuitry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoanything.com/lights/77A3232A2356857.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lights&lt;/a&gt; ready to go in as backup lights, and they are double the cost. The link is just a representation, Ebay has them for less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the next question will be, if I use the fog lights, by the time I get the harness so it can handle the load and work off the backup light circuit, would I be better off just getting the ready to install backup light kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9665" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:01:46.287" Title="Adding aftermarket backup lights" Tags="|lights|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6920" CreationDate="2015-03-08T05:20:17.923" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very few cars have active octane analysis whereby the timing is adjusted on the fly with fuel grade.  VERY few and restricted to more expensive and/or performance oriented luxury vehicles.  Else, all that will happen is if your engine starts knocking, it retards and you lose a massive amount of power, gas mileage suffers as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9666" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T05:20:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15775" CreationDate="2015-03-08T11:50:18.977" Score="7" ViewCount="8097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to remove the oil pan plug nut and found that it was on extremely tightly.  I was using a fairly inexpensive socket wrench ( for only the second time ) and couldn't get it to budge.  So I took a small hammer and tapped ( really just tapped as I had no clearance to make any kind of serious swing at it ) the socket wrench handle for a little bit to try and loosen up the plug.  The plug didn't move, and now the socket wrench no longer moves back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should one not ever tap a socket wrench like that with a hammer ( even very lightly ) or is that usually OK and this is just a poor quality ratchet? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T03:17:55.360" Title="Broken Socket Wrench: My Fault or Poor Quality" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15774" CreationDate="2015-03-08T12:47:21.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you really shouldn't be hitting your ratchet with a hammer. This has probably jammed the mechanism inside the ratchet head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I have done this many times. Most of the tools I use are Craftsman brand tools. While these are not the best tools, they are what I consider a good trade off between cost, quality, and warranty. If I were to break the tool, I have the availability to get it replaced, free of charge. I will also say, I've had my ratchet now for over 30 years. It has taken &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of abuse over the years. I guess it comes down to you get what you pay for (though full disclosure, I inherited this ratchet). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To unstick your ratchet, you may try to put it upon another bolt and ding on it a little bit in the opposite direction. This may get the mechanism to become freed up and operational again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T12:47:21.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15774" CreationDate="2015-03-08T16:09:36.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While tool quality may play a role here, there are a few things to consider here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ratchet size matters&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were you using a 1/4&amp;quot; drive ratchet? If so, I wouldn't be surprised to see it fail under sudden impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fair amount of overlap in terms of socket size and the drive size (for example, metric size 10 is covered by 1/4&amp;quot;, 3/8&amp;quot; and 1/2&amp;quot; drivers); the difference lies in the amount of torque that each driver can handle. Smaller drivers are easier to fit in tricky spots; larger drivers can bear more brunt before failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Leverage &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes#Other_discoveries_and_inventions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archimedes&lt;/a&gt; to your advantage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;[excuse the terrible pun]&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use smooth brute force when the going gets tough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A longer lever (preferably a breaker bar) is a better option if the bolt is really stubborn. I've made the mistake of pounding on a standard 1/2&amp;quot; drive ratchet to undo a stubborn wheel bolt before realizing the world of difference a little more leverage buys you. (One learns from their mistakes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it helps to tighten the bolt a quarter-turn before it loosens, though you must be especially careful if the oil pan is aluminium as threads can easily get stripped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use of penetrating oil and heat are also common approaches to wrestle unwieldy bolts into submission but I'm sceptical about how applicable they would be for an oil pan bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T16:09:36.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T16:18:17.133" Score="2" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;1999 Ford F150 2wd 6 cylinder - What would cause the starter to make a whining sound when you start the truck and will not quit whining and gets very hot on the starter? The Bendix will not disengage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9671" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T19:09:40.463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T22:12:37.767" Title="1999 Ford pickup starter whining" Tags="|ford|starter|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15774" CreationDate="2015-03-08T16:21:59.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't be hammering on a ratchet, ever, like other answers state. If you need more leverage, use a length of pipe that fits over the handle and is longer. I second the recommendation of Craftsman hand tools because of their no-questions warranty replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's an oil drain plug you're working on, a couple related comments: Look up the torque spec and make sure to hit that. Under-tighten and it could come loose (obviously very bad); over-tighten and it's easy to damage the threads of the aluminum oil pan. Also, always use the copper or aluminum crush washer. The steel bolt will electrochemically corrode against the oil pan and become very difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9670" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T16:21:59.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15774" CreationDate="2015-03-08T16:22:16.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the nut is stiff, you should use a non-ratcheting tommy-bar to turn the nut/bolt. A tommy-bar is a socket-driver that can slide up and down a fixed bar - great if you can get just over 180⁰ access to the nut/bolt. T-bars a generally stronger that the ratcheting mechanism in ratchet drivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are tapping loose a stiff bolt, remove the driver and socket first, unless the bolt is buried, and the bottom of the socket isn't touching whatever the bolt is attached to, in this case remove the driver, but keep the socket on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9672" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T16:22:16.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5834" CreationDate="2015-03-08T16:34:20.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These work when the head of the bolt has the corners rounded-off, usually from a wrench slipping. If the head is broken off and completely gone, they are not an option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally they work best if you pound the bolt-out tool onto the damaged head with a hammer. So obviously it's best when there is room to swing a hammer at the bolt head. Easier with bolts that have a lower grade and softer metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option - if you have a welder - is to weld another piece of metal on the damaged bolt head and use that to turn the bolt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9670" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T16:34:20.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T18:46:27.357" Score="1" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am a trapper and I use hot patches to fix my waders  but I have not been able to find anywhere to buy them. Do you know of a distributor in the ohio area that sells them or can I order them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9673" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T18:46:27.357" Title="hotpatch wheels repair kit" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-09T15:55:26.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15777" CreationDate="2015-03-08T19:24:46.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the starter is not disengaging after start-up. This is more than likely caused by a bad solenoid. Once the starter is engaged, the starter keeps spinning because the solenoid does not allow it to release. This, as you discovered, makes the starter get very warm from continuous running. It could also be that the Bendix is allowed to engage, then itself does not retract. This could be caused by a broken or weak return spring in the solenoid, not pushing the core (which is attached to the Bendix) back to its rest position. Either way, I think the problem lies within the solenoid. You may be able to replace this part directly. As it stands, the longer you wait to get this fixed, the more damage will be occurring to your starter motor, which will end up needing replaced sooner as a consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T19:24:46.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T20:06:16.937" Score="5" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;97 Mazda - 323 S V (BA) - 1.8 i 16V (114 Hp)&lt;/a&gt; with a manual 5 speed transmission.  While trying to change the oil, I noticed the following connector, with one missing wire on what I think is the transaxel housing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AvKET.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar connector on the front driver's side of the transaxel housing ( if that's what it is ).  The little red circle is the broken wire, the large yellow circle the &quot;senosr&quot; or whatever it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wire looks like it's been broken a long time, and there's no MIL and last time I connected to the ECU there weren't any error codes present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking through the service manual for a similar model ( the 96 Protege ) and so far I haven't been able to find anything.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.mazda-club.eu/sub-model/mazda-323-familia-protege-iv-ba-bh-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The service manual can be downloaded here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section for the transaxel starts on page 394.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a similar looking &quot;sensor&quot; on the front side of the transaxel, next to the driver's side front wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7lxUx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T09:43:55.067" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T15:17:51.670" Title="Mystery Sensor on Manual Transaxel Housing" Tags="|transmission|mazda|sensor|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15777" CreationDate="2015-03-08T22:12:37.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I remember 1999 F150's use a starter relay/solenoid  that is mounted on the firewall or inner fender. If you follow the positive battery cable it should connect to this relay. If the starter spins as soon as the battery cables are connected to the battery then the relay has welded its self in the closed position and is defective. (This does occur but not frequently, they usually fail in the open position) If the problem occurs after the ignition is switched to the &quot;start&quot; position, you need to determine if the ignition switch is still sending the start signal to the solenoid while it is in the &quot;run&quot; position. On the solenoid/relay you will notice two large wires and a small wire. By removing the small wire you will interrupt start signal. If this makes the starter disengage the ignition switch is defective. (Again this doesn't happen often but can occur) If the starter still spins with the small wire removed then as @Paulster has stated the Bendix return spring is not retracting the drive gear and the starter is defective. This the most common reason but the other scenarios have to be eliminated before you ruin the new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T22:12:37.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15787" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:39:19.653" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T23:39:19.653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:39:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15788" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:39:19.653" Score="0" Body="Peugeot is a French auto maker, part of the PSA group which also includes Citroen." OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T00:58:04.700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T00:58:04.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15687" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:49:07.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By looking at some French forums it seems the outside temperature sensor is located on the bottom of the right (passenger side) mirror, and is a standard NTC thermistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The signal is analog all the way up to some computer located inside the car, and the freaky values mean either the thermistor itself is dead or its cables are damaged. It can't be a computer issue otherwise the display would just show &quot;--.- °C&quot; or most likely not work at all and show an error message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:49:07.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23469" CreationDate="2015-03-09T00:07:59.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Corolla 1999 came with original steel rims, I'm not sure if there was an option for aluminum rims at that time. Recently I want to buy some used aluminum rims but the question is if the current wheel studs are long enough to tighten the lug nuts ? The current wheel studs are 3 or 4 threads outside the lug nuts with the steel rims on. I guess that length is not enough to adapt aluminum rims but I would like an answer from someone who has experienced this. Thank you very much!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oops I have updated a picture and looks like the studs are only 1 thread left outside the nuts. And look at the shaft protruding from the hub, I'm wondering if possible to put on the hub cab of the aluminum rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEC83.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9677" LastEditorUserId="9677" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T17:17:18.520" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T16:04:47.713" Title="Replace original steel rims with aluminum rims" Tags="|toyota|corolla|lug-nut|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15774" CreationDate="2015-03-09T01:36:22.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this before too. You should not strike a ratchet socket driver. High tensile parts are brittle and do not like shocks. Some of them fall to bits from just being dropped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are ship breaking you would use something called a flogging (some localisations flodding) spanner. Still not a good idea with an oil pan or sump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strike/shock the nut directly, and use a T-bar (sliding type) and try and loosen it cold. Move up to a larger drive. Look for evidence of unusual gasketing, loctite, resin etc. You don't want to deform the sump or twist out the plug hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it starts moving you should be fine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to work in a hydrostatic test station, and I have broken bars (greenstick style) with drive shafts and galvanised pipe.  We would have a cylinder in a vise and 2 guys walking around it pushing light truck drive shafts (hollow) capstan style on larger sockets. Be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastEditorUserId="9678" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T03:17:55.360" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T03:17:55.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15879" CreationDate="2015-03-09T04:26:18.263" Score="4" ViewCount="14100" Body="&lt;p&gt;My windshield washer doesn't work very well, there is almost no pressure when the fluid comes out. As you can see in the photo below, there is a section of clear tube which I added a while back due to a rupture in the original black tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there seems to be another rupture in a different spot on the black tube so I plan on just replacing it (the black tube is #1 in the photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, do I need to replace #2 and/or #3 in order to replace #1? What are these parts called so I can ask for them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it matters, but this is on a 2003 Infiniti g35.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AkOz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9469" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T05:08:50.697" Title="What are these windshield washer parts called, and what should I replace?" Tags="|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15793" CreationDate="2015-03-09T11:21:46.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the photo but the washer system only contains a few parts. With the hose disconnected turn on the wash cycle. If fluid squirts from the hose the pump is working. If any of the hoses leak then  repair or place them. The final part is the nozzle. This is the part that actually  forms the spray pattern .Depending on the make and model you may be able to clean them if they are plugged. Using a very small piece of wire try to push any debris out of the nozzle. If cleaning doesn't help they will need to be replaced. Some vehicles can use a universal replacement nozzle others require an original replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T11:21:46.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T12:41:09.547" Score="5" ViewCount="1789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm so confused I had just left my house and got 3 blocks away and my check gauges light came on, then my battery gauge dropped down to 9v. My Jeep didn't lose power, and the radio, heat, lights and everything stayed on. It wasn't even running funny. Then, after being parked for a few hours I drove it again and the battery gauge was back at 14. It wasn't till the next day that it did it again... I'm at a loss and don't know where to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9683" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T15:59:59.390" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T11:25:50.693" Title="97 Jeep Cherokee check gauges light came on and then my battery gauge dropped down to 9 didn't lose any power?" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|power|cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15771" CreationDate="2015-03-09T15:01:46.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use normal fog lights, or other 55w Halogens, you'll need a relay, so you're not drawing the full 10A through the existing circuit. You can find plenty of wiring diagrams on Google, and the parts will only cost you the price of a couple of beers - a relay, a fuse &amp;amp; holder and some wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me however, I'd look at the newer LED worklights you can get - CREE ones will be much brighter than cheap aftermarket ones, and will use much less power than 55w Halogens...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:01:46.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15758" CreationDate="2015-03-09T15:05:38.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a problem with your gear linkage. Either part of the fore-aft linkage is broken, or it's not connected properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:05:38.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15757" CreationDate="2015-03-09T15:24:30.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its called in the UK &quot;running on&quot;. Though I am not a Suburu expert, this is usually caused by a weak mixture,inlet air leaks, wrong grade spark plugs,wrong grade fuel,over advanced ignition timing, glowing carbon hot spots in the combustion chamber, leaking fuel injector, overheating engine, or on some engines a  electric inlet suction break valve failing. Take the vehicle out for good long high speed drive and see if it helps, after that its electronic diagnostic checks on the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9451" LastEditorUserId="9451" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T15:42:05.263" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T15:42:05.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15822" CreationDate="2015-03-09T15:40:59.327" Score="6" ViewCount="2775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll apologize in advance for a fuzzy question. My problem consists of two parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters, I'm trying to buy a DC engine for learning purposes and most of them only specifies the watt (which I can use in order to convert and get the horse power that I'm normally used to) or torque. And secondly, I've never built something like this before, usually I build bikes or cars. Normally engines are pre-designed to haul a car or two but when it comes to DC engines I could accidentally buy something that's meant to drive a overhead crane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What torque would be required to match your run-of-the-mill go-kart that you usually find at theme-parks or amusement parks (I understand that a 70 bhp go-kart doing 120mph is another ballpark)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would 1.9 Nm be enough? Sounds weak when my bike weighs 196 kg with 96 Nm does 0-60 in roughly half the time a normal go-cart reaches it's top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could 1.9 Nm be enough to accelerate 130kg as fast as a &quot;normal&quot; go-kart?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Changzhou-OEM-Factory-1000-watt-traction_1789557468.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Changzhou-OEM-Factory-1000-watt-traction_1789557468.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have no place to ask these silly questions and no friends to ask, that's why I'm asking these vague questions here. Again I'm sorry!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9685" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T18:11:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T19:49:33.010" Title="Could 1.9 Nm be enough to accelerate 130kg electric go-kart?" Tags="|electrical|power|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T18:22:03.143" Score="3" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 8&quot; bench grinder from Harbor Freight to clean up some automotive parts with a wire wheel. On the left side of the grinder has a left hand threaded nut on it, while the other side has a right hand threaded nut. If I use two wrenches and try to tighten one side the other side will loosen. No matter how much I try this loosing/tightening thing keeps going back and forth. There is no special tool included and there doesn't seem to be a good place to hold the shaft in-place. Is there some special trick to get these wheels attached and secured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5147" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T21:12:29.190" Title="How to properly tighten a wheel on a bench grinder?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T19:23:47.377" Score="3" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy L Sedan Automatic. I've been starting to notice in the past few months that the transmission is shifting strange, typically either when the car first starts up, or has been constantly driving for a long time.&#xA;For example, when cruising at a low-speed in 2nd gear, when you feel the transmission downshift into 1st it shifts slightly rough, causing the car to bob slightly, and then you can hear/feel a low rumble in the accelerator peddle. I only ever feel it in the lowest gear as I'm driving slowly. It shifts fine from 1st to 2nd and so forth, but from 2nd to 1st has gotten rough. It does not do this in any other gears.&#xA;On a sidenote, when it is very cold outside (as it has been lately) right when you start the car the engine is ticking. The ticking subsides when the engine is fully warmed, but I've noticed lately has gotten louder (possibly just in my mind but still cause for concern).&#xA;The car just recently broke 130,000 miles so I really hope it's not about to take an expensive repair.&#xA;Any ideas what is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T19:23:47.377" Title="Signs of a bad transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|shifting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16005" CreationDate="2015-03-09T20:10:49.087" Score="2" ViewCount="1591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2nd hand 2007 automatic Fiat Punto Grande. For some time now, I have been experiencing strange behavior when I try to start the engine: Sometimes, it starts right away, i.e., normally, but sometimes I need to hold the key on the &quot;ignite&quot; position for a certain amount of time before the engine starts. This time can be anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, and at times, even more. There are some really annoying times when I need to turn the key a few times before the car starts. I tried to find some kind of pattern as to when this problem occurs and when it does not, but so far, without any success. It seems to be totally random. After the car starts, the car runs normally. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9686" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T22:06:35.540" Title="Fiat Punto Grande 2007 does not start right away" Tags="|starting|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15801" CreationDate="2015-03-09T21:12:29.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if OSHA would approve but the method I use is to wedge a screwdriver between the toolrest and the wheel. Then tighten the nut. It doesn't need to be jammed in real tight just enough to snug up the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T21:12:29.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T23:15:00.693" Score="4" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving about a mile with a cold engine, I lost power steering and all the dash lights came on (battery, oil, all the doors registered open, etc). I pulled off the road and turned the car off. I am sure the engine was still running, because it was uphill to where I pulled off from where the electrical failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tow truck arrived, we restarted the engine. It looked fine, but after a couple of minutes, the lights were on again. My dealer has it today and (thank you Murphy), my car has been running fine for the techs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about 63k miles on the car and it was last checked out at the dealer in December.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9688" LastEditorUserId="9688" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T17:09:18.330" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T20:42:16.673" Title="Honda Accord 2000 V6, loses electrical although engine is still running - what could it be?" Tags="|electrical|accord|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T23:50:07.473" Score="3" ViewCount="9699" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 99 honda accord takes a while to start when its cold also it intermittently stalls while driving. The rotor and cap, fuel filter and pump was both replaced. other then that it runs fine. I have no clue what is going on. please give me some answers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9690" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:58:38.033" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:04:53.753" Title="honda accord takes a while to start/intermittently stalls" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="310" CreationDate="2015-03-10T07:05:15.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a vehicle speed sensor which plugs into the back of the differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look under the rear of your Volvo at the differential cover, you will see the wires going into your sensor on the cover. If the plastic/rubber sheathing covering the two wires (not the larger protective cover) has started to crumble and fall off at the sensor, it will cause a short that will cause your speedometer to act erratically or not at all. It's an easy fix, and this was a common problem in the 90's rear wheel drive Volvos with some age and weather on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9697" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:41:20.030" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:41:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15814" CreationDate="2015-03-10T12:55:21.817" Score="6" ViewCount="19609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought a ford focus 1.6 04 plate with 154k on the clock (got it cheap!). It is up to 155k now had it about 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic advised me to change the timing belt and water pump asap which I will do as I trust his advice however I need to wait until I have the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading up quite a lot and the recommended mileage for this change is 100k, most people say get it changed between 70-80k to be safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore in my head I'm thinking to make it to 155k without the belt snapping surely this means it must have been changed at some point or it would have gone already by now right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to get it done in a week and a half however I'm getting paranoid every time I drive the car now, plus I need to do about 400 miles this weekend which is getting me worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think the belt has been changed in its life (we have no history of the car)?&#xA;Is there any indication it could be on its way out (noises, vibrations, etc.)?&#xA;What am I expect if it does snap (how can I avoid crashing if it goes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advanced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9560" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:49:45.420" Title="Ford Focus 1.6 Petrol Timing Belt" Tags="|ford|focus|timing-belt|zetec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:09:55.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have a look at the condition of the belt to gauge its condition. But you'll need to have seen quite a number of timing belts to be able to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk is that when a timing belt snaps, it damages your valves and pistons too. To fix that will require the engine be taken apart and the damaged parts replaced. It's not a cheap thing to do. Timing-belt related damage can cost anything from $1000 to $6000 depending on the car and the extent of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about it, don't drive fast and don't rev your engine higher than needed. Keep it under 3500rpm. And try not to vary the RPM quickly. E.g. don't down shift suddenly and don't accelerate fast. Any time there's a sudden change in RPM, the timing belt experiences a shock, which could turn out to be the shock that finally snaps it. Smooth is the word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T15:10:59.747" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T15:10:59.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:50:25.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to your mechanic's response about changing the timing belt and water pump &quot;now&quot; is that you have no real indication of the maintenance history of the car. You don't know if it's been changed or not. A timing belt &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; last for that long, but who knows. The mechanic is giving sound advice because he's trying to help you protect your interests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you think the belt has been changed in its life (we have no history of the car)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; been changed, but you just don't know without the maintenance records. Only if you trust the records provided would I not consider changing it out, but might just do it for piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any indication it could be on its way out (noises, vibrations, etc.)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when a belt goes, it goes without warning. You may be able to pull the cover and see if there is any fraying or wear, but usually you won't see it. I've also seen where the belt teeth become separated from the belt itself, but usually the belt becomes stretched enough for the teeth to jump one or more positions, which fouls the cam timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What am I expect if it does snap (how can I avoid crashing if it goes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of your particular vehicle, but most newer vehicles with a timing belt are interference motors, meaning that the valves and pistons share the same space inside the combustion chamber, but do it at different times (as a result of valve timing). When the belt breaks or skips teeth, the pistons and valves can come into contact causing major damage, which as Juann alluded to, can cost lots of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make you a little more worried, the belt can slip or break at any engine speed. When its time is up, it will happen. The only thing you can do about it is to change it out and be done with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you mention most people suggest doing the maintenance every 70-80k. With a standard belt, most manufacturers have a 60k mile replacement. Some newer belts are made with Kevlar which then has a 100k change interval. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:50:25.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15818" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:40:33.157" Score="7" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working with a 1965 mustang and have added heated seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat heater wiring does not have a latching circuit and is controlled by a SPDT Hi/off/Low switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an effort to only allow the seats to be powered when the engine is running, I've added a relay to the control wiring that will have a fused direct battery feed for the heat load and &quot;running only&quot; source for the relay coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of using the feed off of the alternator &quot;BAT&quot; output. My problem is that this wire is terminated at the hot side of the starter relay with the positive battery feed, so the coil would be always energized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To isolate the battery from the Alternator output I was thinking of adding a diode. Not being sure of the alternator currents, I do not know how to accurately size this diode, an I am concerned about the heat it would generate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there maybe a better TAP that I can use for this? Maybe the &quot;fld&quot; or &quot;sta&quot; from the alternator or something off of the voltage regulator that would be a better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9702" OwnerDisplayName="TopDownCar" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T17:47:03.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T18:18:08.737" Title="Diode selection or &quot;Engine Running Only&quot; electrical source on 1965 Mustang?" Tags="|electrical|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T15:05:46.510" Score="1" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I added too much oil to my 97 civic lx, drove it about 30 miles. It started to overheat and antifreeze started to leak from somewhere. I drained the excess oil, which looked brown, and started it and let it idle with no problem. A couple miles down the road it overheated. What should I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9701" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T19:00:17.950" Title="added too much oil" Tags="|oil|civic|coolant|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-18T11:19:26.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15816" CreationDate="2015-03-10T18:18:08.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two solutions for you, depending on your skill level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is using a zener diode to turn on the relay once the voltage is above 12.6 volts. This will energize the relay anytime the battery voltage is above 12.6 volts. You could go as high as 13 volts, but that might turn the relay off under high electrical loads with the engine running. The 12 volt battery in the car tops off at 12.6 volts, so other than a surface charge the only time the voltage will be higher than that is when the alternator is running. I might would start off with a breakdown voltage of 12.8 and see how that works out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option two is to go with a commercial solution. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lindelectronics.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lind electronics&lt;/a&gt; make several shut down timers that you may like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lindelectronics.com/products/sdt12-12-081&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;T2 Shut down timer&lt;/a&gt; turns off after a preset time or voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1ACB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have several other models you may like as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T18:18:08.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23320" CreationDate="2015-03-10T18:45:11.760" Score="4" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to order the hub assembly and brake knuckle spindle assembly for a 98 Honda Civic so that I don't have to do any press work with the bearings. On other vehicles the parts can be bought new but when you google it they are all used. Am I using the wrong name? Other vehicles it pulls it up in search engine just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T02:07:30.893" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T03:31:29.197" Title="Trying to order a part, shows up brake knuckle spindle assembly, but all are used for 98 civic?" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-14T04:23:54.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15817" CreationDate="2015-03-10T19:00:17.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be a problem with your coolant system. Too much oil will simply burn off the excess oil, and you shouldn't notice much of a difference. You can get a neon liquid from most auto parts stores, pour it in your radiator, as you would coolant, not in your reservoir, unless the vehicle is made where you can only add it to the reservoir. You then use the neon liquid kit with a black light or at night, and the coolant will glow where it is leaking from. If it's close to the end of a hose, just cut it shorter. If it's over heating due to cold weather, make sure your coolant system has a good level of antifreeze, because cars will not overheat on simply water in the summer time, but in the winter it will freeze and the coolant will not move down the radiator, if it's all water, it will freeze instead of just cooling down, leaving your block with no flow of cool water. If you are in extreme temperatures, you can cover the front of the radiator with something like a piece of cardboard to keep air from moving through the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T19:00:17.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15806" CreationDate="2015-03-10T19:19:37.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slow start in the winter time is usually due to complications in the fuel rail, simply valve wear or the fact that they may loosen or tighten over the years, or years of fuel injector clogging. Here are some things you can do to fix these problems. When you say it is dying while driving that would be your alternator. When it goes bad, it doesn't charge your battery. When your battery goes bad. Your spark plugs will not ignite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you start your car try turning it on and off three times, slowly, pump the gas the third time it's on, and turn it off again. Then start it. This primes your fuel injectors with fuel. This will also work when you're very low on gas. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look into adjusting your valves with a feeler gauge(cont..). They're located right under the valve cover or engine cover.  If you're careful, you can even tighten or loosen them evenly by literally quarter or half turns at a time. Too tight and it will be liked a choked weed eater, hard to start. Too loose and you will hear the valves clicking against the valve seals. Just right and it should be quiet, or it will sound similar to a diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take off you're valve cover and use a breaker bar, to hand tighten your head bolts/studs. These tighten your engines head, with the block underneath, keeping oil, antifreeze, and cylinder fire from leaking out. Check the bolt torque specs unless you have a lot of experience. On a small 4 cylinder car it's about 40- 60 lbs. on each head bolt, 6-8 count, giving you about 300- 400 lbs. of constant force holding the motor shut. V-6's and V-8's will have two valve covers, because they have two camshafts that run the valves like a music box. Some old chevy's you can adjust while it's running. Don't do that or it will splash molten oil in your face. Also before touching head bolts, let motor cool down for 5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a spark plug that is not all the way in or out, you can try, carefully while the engine is still warm or hot, because that may be how it was siezed or was cross threaded to begin with. Any broken bolts besides the valve cover could cost you hundred of dollars to fix or have rethreaded. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take off your fuel rail and use a 9 volt battery to open it. Run break cleaner through the injectors if applicable. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T19:19:37.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15800" CreationDate="2015-03-10T19:49:33.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great vehicle dynamics question that essentially has two parts to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the motor able to hit top speed, 120 mph?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the torque enough to accelerate it to top speed within 5 seconds?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The motor in question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Power : 1000 W (~ 1.36 hp)&#xA; Speed : 3200 RPM&#xA;Torque : 1.91 Nm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something interesting to note here is the apparent discrepancy between the three quantities. Since the three quantities are related, one could back-calculate how much power is delivered by the quoted torque at 3200 RPM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = Torque x Angular Speed&#xA;      = 1.91 Nm x ( 2π / 60 x 3200 RPM ) 1/s&#xA;      = 640 W&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly, &lt;em&gt;something is up with the manufacturer's claimed figures&lt;/em&gt;. For 1000 W output at 3200 RPM, the required torque should be around 3 Nm, not 1.91 Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;errare humanum est&lt;/em&gt;, so we'll stick with the generous 1000 W for the rest of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;So what does 1000 W buy?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aerodynamic drag force alone, in the absence of other parasitic factors such as rolling resistance, inclinations and headwind, is enough to severely limit the top speed of the go-kart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At top speed, the motive forces on the go-kart equal the drag forces acting on it (resulting in zero net force, zero net acceleration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to physics (and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0837617324&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch Automotive Handbook&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Aero Drag = 0.5 x Air Density x Drag Coeff. x Cross-Sectional Area x Speed²&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some reasonable assumptions for a go-kart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Air Density = 1.225 kg/m³ at sea level, 15 °C&#xA; Drag Coeff = 0.4 (generous for a go-kart)&#xA;       Area = 0.5 m² (rough, based on a 1.2 m wide chassis)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aerodynamic drag is a function of the square of the vehicle's speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Aero Drag = 0.1225 x Speed²&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does this relate to power required?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = Resistive Forces x Speed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that aerodynamic drag is the only resistance that the vehicle needs to overcome, the power required to overcome this force can now be estimated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = 0.1225 x Speed³&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that if you double the top speed requirement, you need &lt;strong&gt;eight times&lt;/strong&gt; the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at best, 1000 W &lt;em&gt;at the wheels&lt;/em&gt; would let you get up to 20 m/s, a hardly-earth-quaking 45 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To hit 120 mph, one needs around 19 kW at the wheels, or roughly 25 hp, which is the equivalent of &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;nineteen&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; 1000 W motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T19:49:33.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15833" CreationDate="2015-03-11T01:41:26.217" Score="5" ViewCount="14953" Body="&lt;p&gt;2009 CTS4 3.6L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0430 catalyst below efficiency bank 2 comes on periodically. (There are no other codes being thrown.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a data logger on it today on my drive to work and the rear sensor is certainly erratic at times. It doesn't necessarily follow the front sensor signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the most reasonable way to test it would be to swap the sensors side to side. Then if the problem follows the sensor, it's the sensor that is bad. If the problem stays on the driver side, it's the catalytic converter that has gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, due to the placement on the driver side, the entire pipe has to come down to access it. As I've just had twin daughters, my time for repairs is minimal and if I'm going to drop that pipe I want to only do it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can conclusively determine if it is the sensor or converter prior to removing anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9705" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T10:59:11.747" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T04:03:42.290" Title="How to determine if P0430 is O2 or catalytic converter" Tags="|emissions|catalytic-converter|p0430|cadillac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T03:06:40.987" Score="-1" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my 2012 camaro at freeway speeds, the steering wheel vibrates violently.  However, it will continue to vibrate intermittently even after braking every few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9706" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T10:41:20.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T16:47:09.230" Title="Steering wheel vibration" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|steering|vibration|camaro|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T03:32:51.633" Score="3" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;My speedometer, tachometer and odometer all stopped working at the same time in my 2011 Hyundai Elantra (with manual transmission).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My analog tachometer and speedometer needles don't move. My digital odometer doesn't increment (for either of the trip counters nor the total number of miles.) My digital fuel gauge also shows no reading. (However my digital temperature gauge IS working.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My check engine light does not come on and the lights to the gauges still will work fine. It's not a battery problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up a Bluetooth ODB2 dongle and ran the Android &quot;Torque&quot; app. I did not have any ODB2 errors and the app WAS able to show me my both my speed and RPMs in real time. (I'm not sure about the fuel level.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer said it would be about $500 just to trace the electrical system which is NOT a viable option. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9707" LastActivityDate="2024-01-29T22:24:54.230" Title="How Do Get My 2011 Hyundai Elantra Tachometer, Speedometer and Fuel Guage Display Working Again?" Tags="|hyundai|elantra|odometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T04:22:56.727" Score="4" ViewCount="173325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Honda civic that I bought a few months ago. It has an after market fan that i have to turn on when I'm driving to keep it from over heating. In the winter time it wansnt a big deal to turn it on unless I was in stop and go traffic. But anyways, the other week I was going to pick up a friend from work and didn't notice my car was all the way on hot till I reached the parking lot and then the white smoke began. I then found out that my coolant reservoir was completely empty so I refilled it. I let the car cool off and then attempted to drive home. I didn't even get a mile down the road when it started over heating again. I again attempted to let it cool off and try again when the same thing happened so I got it towed home. I had a buddy of mine come look at it who knows a tad bit about cars. He said that there is no leaking fluids coming out of the coolant reservoir and the radiator was fine. The only thing he noticed is there was oil on my engine and suggested I get the valves changed and cleaned up before I take it to a shop to see where the white smoke is coming from in the area behind the engine. Any suggestions of what it could be before I get jerked around by a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9708" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T10:35:17.983" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T05:34:06.883" Title="car over heating and white smoke coming out of the hood" Tags="|honda|civic|cooling-system|overheating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15837" CreationDate="2015-03-11T05:08:58.200" Score="1" ViewCount="24445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my brakes completely redone for my annual test and now they squeak whenever I use them.  It's really a bit annoying and I was wondering why they do that if there's anything I can do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:21:55.087" Title="why are new brakes squeaking?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15738" CreationDate="2015-03-11T05:16:32.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy an ODB reader for $40 and find out if your car pass before taking it to get it officially inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T05:16:32.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15832" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:01:04.127" Score="1" ViewCount="15588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know why my car is making noise when the engine is idle, but the noise is silence when I pressed the clutch ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9712" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T08:57:13.707" Title="Noise when the engine is idle" Tags="|engine|clutch|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:04:43.890" Score="3" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the clutch replaced on my car (well a friend did when I lent it to him). He replaced some other part he said was leaking - it looks very like the heater control valve when I google them on ebay (I think he is it was some water pump to my friend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it is now only blowing hot air. The mechanic is two hours away, so its a pain to back to get it checked. &#xA;Assuming it is the heater control valve that was replaced, is there anything else I can check that might be causing it to blow hot air? Does it need any of the fluid levels topped up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I checked under the bonnet to look at the vacuum line as suggested, and noticed an electrical wire close to the window wipers that was unclipped. I need to find where it clips into now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9711" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:51:29.223" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:51:29.223" Title="Ford Puma only blowing hot air" Tags="|ford|heater-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15830" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:31:50.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With the lack of information you've (haven't) provided&lt;/strong&gt;, there is only one thing which I can think of which might be causing the noise you are describing, and that is if the main bearing in the front of the transmission is going out. When you push in the clutch pedal, the transmission is disconnected from the engine and is therefor not turning. When the transmission is in gear and the clutch engaged, the front bearing will not usually make any noise due to the torque applied to the main shaft. That is at least at first until the bearing gets bad enough to be making noise all the time. If this truly is the problem, it can only be solved by taking the vehicle to a mechanic for a transmission rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T10:31:50.897" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15823" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:56:24.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is by far &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the best video&lt;/a&gt; I've seen which gives two ways to tell if your catalytic converter is bad. In a nutshell, Eric the Car Guy uses two methods to diagnose a bad converter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He uses a scan tool which uses live data to do just what you are looking at. He is checking to see how the downstream O2 sensor is behaving. Basically it should be fairly steady, while the upstream one is wildly all over the map.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, he uses an infrared no-touch thermometer to read how hot the exhaust where it goes into the cat and where it comes out. If the cat is good, your readings coming out of the cat should be much hotter exiting than going into it. If the catalyst is doing it's job, it's going to be burning the excess hydrocarbons, which will cause heat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do either of these test, ensure the vehicle is completely up to temperature. If you don't, you won't get accurate readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do disagree with Eric on one point of the video, that being &quot;&lt;em&gt;the catalytic converter is there to clean up NOx emissions&lt;/em&gt;&quot; ... while a cat does do this, it is there also to clean up Carbon Monoxide (CO) and Hydrocarbons (HC). For this reason catalytic converters are called &lt;em&gt;three way&lt;/em&gt; converters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T10:56:24.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2015-03-11T12:47:06.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were your brakes silent before this work was performed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brake noise is considered normal. Different driving conditions can affect brake noise, including severe braking, dusty or sandy conditions,even humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain high-pitched brake noise happens because the semi-metallic brake pads used on newer cars are harder. A high-pitched squeal often happens on smaller cars and is heard in the first few stops when brakes are cold and damp. Certain brands can be noisier than others, but there's an upside - these harder pads that have more metal generally last longer since they're stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your brakes will make noise. If you expect supreme silence, or expect your mechanic to make your brakes totally mute in every circumstance—that just may not be possible.A squeaking brake can stop a vehicle as quickly as a quiet one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the car back and have them use either a paste or grease between the pads and caliper and lubricate the slides and pad contact points. If they know their stuff, they did it already. If not that may help. Also, new brakes take time to Bed In or Break In. You may have to wait for a few days for the silence to begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9700" LastEditorUserId="9700" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T17:21:55.087" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:21:55.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2015-03-11T13:23:30.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using up your clutch to slow down all the time? Replacing your clutch will cost you several hundred bucks, and unless you have a lot of special equipment, you won't be able to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you use your transmission for accelerating, you wear down the clutch, throwout bearing, gears, synchros, and bearings. If you use the transmission to slow down, you're close to doubling the wear. Try shifting a transmission with worn or chipped gears, a toasted clutch, and worn syncros. You'll sound like it's your first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission work doesn't come cheap. You can use your brakes all day long and the most it's going to cost you is 200 bucks for a brake job. You can do a complete brake job, front and back if you have ever handled a tool, you can do it for under a hundred bucks yourself. Keep stopping your 2,500 pound car with a clutch disc that is smaller than any one of your brake discs and start saving for that new clutch you always wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, try that &quot;slow down by downshifting&quot; trick in the rain and watch helplessly as your car swaps ends right into a wall because there's no such thing as &quot;anti-lock clutching&quot;, and if you don't have full-time 4-wheel drive you're only slowing down with 2 wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So FOR THE MOST PART... Brakes are for slowing or stopping the vehicle. Use them for that. Save the clutch for making the vehicle MOVE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question: &lt;em&gt;Does Downshifting (Engine Braking) Cause Extra Wear and Tear?&lt;/em&gt; Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9700" LastEditorUserId="24455" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T10:26:03.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T10:26:03.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2015-03-11T14:26:04.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had it happen before where my brakes would squeak after just being done. After driving on them for awhile the squeaking subsided. Depending on how loud the squeaking is, there is a good chance that it will fix itself. If you are really worried about it, check your pad levels all around for any uneven wear, and tighten everything down.&#xA;Applying anti-squeak compound to your brake pads can also reduce this. It acts like an adhesive I think, to keep them from vibrating when engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T14:26:04.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15824" CreationDate="2015-03-11T14:32:56.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no mechanic, but in my personal experience vibrations of the wheel are typically caused by uneven/scarred rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T14:32:56.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15826" CreationDate="2015-03-11T14:41:32.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you found your coolant reservoir completely empty there's a very good chance you have a coolant leak somewhere, or popped a line. There's a whole list of possibilities, but if was empty then there is a leak somewhere. Don't inhale any of the white smoke as I believe it is toxic. I also believe burning coolant tends to smell &quot;sweet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T14:41:32.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T15:22:10.483" Score="3" ViewCount="2503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curious whether it's possible and how to do tighten up the throttle cable on my 2004 Toyota Echo manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T17:15:12.617" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:15:12.617" Title="Is there a way to tighten the throttle cable on a 2004 Echo?" Tags="|toyota|throttle|echo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15843" CreationDate="2015-03-11T16:42:28.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toyota Echo (and most cars pre-2011ish) uses a cabled throttle assembly, so you should be able to tighten the cable fairly easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for the following in your engine bay&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5sAw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see the nut to the left of the arrow, that's where you can tighten the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good link is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/112409-a-guide-to-adjusting-the-throttle-cable/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/112409-a-guide-to-adjusting-the-throttle-cable/&lt;/a&gt; , which is for a Corolla, but covers the basics of cable adjustment for cabled throttles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T16:42:28.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T17:36:50.183" Score="4" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;One time, I had in my hand an object, part of a tractor gearbox, and i know its Portuguese name:&quot;carreto inversor&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The device has two cogs, one is the input and the other is the output. The function of it is to implement the Reverse moving of the tractor. Each movement done in the input wheel will produce a movement in the opposite sense on the output wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's the name of this device in English?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think people who answered the question didn't know what I am asking. It is a single component who has an input reel, and output reel, and it is NOT an idler gear of a gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more accurate, in the concrete case I am speaking about, the visible parts where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an input ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a structure in the middle of the rings, which holds them both and is hollow in the middle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an output ring, which rotates in the opposite sense of the input ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't yet get a picture on the Internet, because the many searches I did seem to not match what I want to describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" LastEditorUserId="9367" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T17:38:47.273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:38:47.273" Title="Name of inverter gear cog in English" Tags="|transmission|shifting|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2015-03-11T17:48:54.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission#Reverse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; they are calling it an &quot;idler gear&quot; or &quot;reverse idler&quot;. In this image they are calling it the &quot;reverse idler gear&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhM6g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:48:54.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15845" CreationDate="2015-03-11T17:51:44.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most manual transmission you have three shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Input shaft (IS), connected to the clutch&#xA;Output shaft (OS), connected to the drive shaft&#xA;Counter shaft (CS),runs parallel to the input and output shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be referring to the idler gear. That is just an extra gear between the counter shaft and output shaft used to reverse the output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below is an example of one manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ESUi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gonefcon.com/trucktcom/transmissions.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research with translating &quot;carreto inversor&quot; it looks like it translates to drive sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorconsult.pt/artigos/238-transmissoes-parte-i#.VQCByHzF-no&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; refers to &quot;carreto inversor&quot; in the following paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A última figura representa a marcha atrás. Para obtermos “marcha&#xA;  atrás” temos de inverter o movimento de rotação à saída da caixa de&#xA;  velocidades. Para isso recorre-se ao chamado “carreto inversor”.&#xA;  Trata-se tão simplesmente de um carreto (roda dentada) que, pelo facto&#xA;  de intermediar o par de carretos (rodas dentadas) que se encarregam de&#xA;  produzir o “rapport” da marcha atrás, inverte o movimento de saída –&#xA;  rotação de sentido inverso para impulsionar as rodas de tracção ao&#xA;  contrário do movimento normal (para a frente).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When translated by the Google, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The last figure is the reverse. To obtain &quot;reverse&quot; we have to reverse&#xA;  the rotational movement out of the gearbox. For this refers to the&#xA;  so-called &quot;drive gear&quot;. This is so simply from one sprocket (sprocket)&#xA;  that because of the pair of intermediate gears (gears) that are&#xA;  responsible for producing the &quot;rapport&quot; the reverse, reverses the&#xA;  output motion - reverse rotation to drive the traction wheels unlike&#xA;  the normal motion (forwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this translation “carreto inversor” is &quot;drive gear&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just below that paragraph is an image that's in English calling it an idler gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1Vss.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text referencing that picture follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vejamos em pormenor este tipo de engrenagem (marcha atrás): Como se&#xA;  pode ver na figura ao lado, o carreto central “A” serve para inverter&#xA;  o sentido do movimento normal, à saída da caixa de velocidades. O&#xA;  rapport é fruto da relação de transmissão dos 3 carretos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translated by The Google&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Let's see in detail this type of gear (reverse): As shown in the&#xA;  figure, the center reel &quot;A&quot; serves to reverse the direction of normal&#xA;  movement, out of the gearbox. The rapport is the result of the&#xA;  transmission ratio of 3 reels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context it translates Carretos to reels, which really are gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on all the above I would say you are referring to what is know as the idler gear or reverse idler gear. It's sole purpose is to reverse the direction of the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T14:27:43.543" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T14:27:43.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15715" CreationDate="2015-03-11T17:57:43.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, or something in that general vicinity. You should try to clean it and the upper intake tract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:57:43.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15826" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:15:42.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a leak.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the white smoke is coming from the engine compartment, then you are leaking coolant from radiator, hose or gasket.  If the smoke is coming from your tailpipe, then you're leaking coolant into the engine itself (bummer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's coming from the tailpipe, take it to the mechanic and bend over.  It's going to hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's in the engine compartment, then re-fill your RADIATOR (not merely the reservoir) when the engine is cold having been off for a long time.  Water is fine for now until you find the leak.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then run it ... keeping a jug or two of water with you, and stop occasionally to see where the white smoke is coming from - that will tell you the location of the leak.  Usually it's just a hose - and cheap to replace.  It can be a gasket by the water pump (cheap repair), or a hole in the radiator.  If it's in the radiator, you can buy stuff that will plug the leak at your local auto parts store.  Some guys use peppercorns - it sounds crazy, but it works.  I've used the stuff they sell in the auto store many times - but only if it's in the radiator, and it's beautiful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing: get it fixed immediately.  It's better to be screwed a bit by a mechanic on this deal than to let it go and have it break completely just when you need it badly plus ruin your whole engine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;PS: use the water only for (cheap &amp;amp; easy) testing.  Once you've found the leak and fixed it, then put proper coolant in your radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9718" LastEditorUserId="9718" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T18:58:17.100" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T18:58:17.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15824" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:20:34.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to a tire place and let them ask you questions.  There's not enough info here to answer.  It could be tires out of balance, steering dampener issues, loose linkages, etc.  This one cannot be diagnosed online probably, but the most likely thing on a car that new is that your wheels are out of balance - a cheap and easy thing for a tire place to remedy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9718" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T18:20:34.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15825" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:24:57.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about your model car, but on older cars this would almost certainly be a burned-out fuse.  Ask around and/or do some online research for fuses in your car, or just take it to a local auto parts store and ask them if they will look at it.  It would take less than five minutes to find out.  If it's not that, then you need to go to the dealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9718" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T18:24:57.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:30:11.767" Score="2" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;video where i check all my fuses: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74YimFvXEsQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74YimFvXEsQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fuses that lighted up without key:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 Moonroof (20a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 accessory power socket (with idk why it did since it doesnt give power to my 2 usb &#xA;charger port i have.) (20a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 accessory power socket (same above except i have radar dectector in there) (20a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;38 left headlight high beam (10a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;39 right headlight high beam (10a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40 TPMS (7.5a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;41 door lock (20a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;42 Driver power window. (20a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fuses that did lightup with key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19 to 22 confirm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19 acc (7.5a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 acc key lock (7.5a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 daytime running lights (7.5a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 hac (7.5a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKDLJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now which fuse should i use for yellow wire? (need power without key) , im going to use fuse#19 for red wire. Finally on grounding my bolts are way too tight and hard to reach. except maybe the one thats right next to my fuse box. can i use that as grounding point?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCwql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="sahil patel" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T17:34:33.777" Title="how to hardwire a car.(dashcam)" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T20:16:46.313" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Chevrolet Malibu just died while driving and won't start back up. It acts like there's no fire. I put in new plugs, new coil pack, and new control module on top of the coil pack, but it still turns over but won't start. I checked fuel pressure and it's fine. What could wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9720" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T12:05:27.850" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T12:05:27.850" Title="Will not run after dieing while driving" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|malibu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15857" CreationDate="2015-03-11T20:33:44.340" Score="6" ViewCount="10822" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/15715/7132&quot;&gt;taking off the throttle body to clean my IAC&lt;/a&gt;, I noticed that there was a thick layer of oily sludge coating pretty much everything inside the intake manifold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtdP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two queastions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How did this oily sludge get there in the first place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could this affect the gas millage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask the second question since I theorize that partially obstructed air intakes could throw off the air / fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T23:13:23.307" Title="Oily Sludge in the Intake Manifold" Tags="|mazda|fuel-consumption|air-intake|lantis-323|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15855" CreationDate="2015-03-11T23:13:23.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil stuff is more than likely caused from what the intake pulls out of the crank case through the PCV. If you can get a hold of a couple cans of Seafoam, this should take care of  the residue about as easy as you can do it without taking the engine apart. Use the rubber hose to the right of the photo to introduce it into your system. As an engine gets older, it will start using more oil and introducing more unburnt fuel into the crank case. The unburnt hydrocarbons mix with oil vapor, which is then sucked up through the PCV and into the intake tract, which causes the oil film. This usually builds up over time in any vehicle. It will just happen a little sooner in some cars than in others depending on how the engine is made. This will typically not affect fuel mileage too much, but if it's as thick as you are suggesting, cleaning it and the upper end can only help. It really depends on the engine by how much and when it would start affecting it, so very hard to subjectively state. Easiest way to figure it out is to know what your mileage is now, then clean it thoroughly, then check mileage again. Clean valves, plugs, and combustion chambers will only make it run better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T23:13:23.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15853" CreationDate="2015-03-11T23:31:10.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the TPMS lit up when testing, I'd use that for your constant power. I'm not sure how you are planning on tapping the power, but if you use the small straps which go around the fuse blade and insert with the fuse, place it on the side of the fuse which has the power going to it, not to the side which goes out to the TPMS system. Then ensure you have an inline fuse going to your dash cam. This will protect your dash cam without over loading the 7.5A fuse used for the TPMS. The reason I say use the TPMS is because since it only has a 7.5A fuse, this means it isn't drawing much juice in the first place and should be able to handle the additional load of the dash cam without issue. For your edification, to test for the hot side of the fuse, remove the fuse and then check both sides with your tester. The side that lights is the hot side (obviously). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ground, if that bracket which is holding has the bolt in it (which also holds the OBD-II DLC ... the white plug towards the bottom center of the pic) is metal, then it should be good to go for a ground. You can double check this buy attaching your probes wire end to it, then probing the fuses you just checked in the video (the ones which were hot). If it lights, you're golden. Get a crimped wire connector which is the right size to fit in the bolt, then place the connector between the bolt head and the washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T23:31:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15964" CreationDate="2015-03-12T07:18:20.243" Score="3" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important:&lt;/strong&gt; This question is specific to countries like India, when there might be issues to maintain the bikes without center stand, because of lower facilities available at most of the garages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heromotocorp.com/en-in/the-bike/splendor-pro-classic-73.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hero splendor pro classic&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the bike, its not too costly,  and everything is just fine for a low budget bike. But there is just one thing which is killing me, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bike doesn't have a center stand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it would be really problematic when there is a puncture in the tire. Would it be alright for the mechanic to remove the puncture without the center stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what could be Plausible issues of not having a center stand and solutions for those?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I just don't want to push my bike to many mechanics and get the same answer: you don't have a center stand , get out of here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9725" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T15:07:36.800" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:31:13.607" Title="Plausible issues of not having a center stand and solutions for those?" Tags="|maintenance|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T09:28:53.153" Score="6" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very UK specific question. I was wondering what sort of tests and (if any) fixes are covered by MOT tests. I know that lots of auto shops do servicing that focus on the MOT aspects of things (e.g. the Halfords multipoint check). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example is that I had a interim/full service last year and have done about 800 miles since then. My front left tyre appears to be slightly deflated, but a repair shop told me that they pressure gauged OK (wth). Now, my MOT is due very soon (in 2 months). Will they do some minor repairs such as reinflating tyres if the pressure is not right? Or they just report it to me and say that it will need to be repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:00:43.863" Title="MOT coverage for car issues" Tags="|service|motors|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2015-03-12T10:13:49.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is all explained on the Government website for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/the-mot-test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MOT&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The leaflets are kept up to date at legislation changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether an individual test centre will fix minor faults like tyre pressure is down to the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T10:13:49.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2015-03-12T10:31:04.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MOT only checks a specific set of things, as described in the link in Chenmunka's answer. Tyre pressure isn't one of them, but tyre condition and tread depth are. Some MOT stations (usually the smaller ones) will fix minor things as they go, big ones won't as they can charge you extra to do things afterwards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However - it is your responsibility (by law) to keep your car roadworthy - if your tyres are under-inflated, you need to inflate them now, not wait until the next MOT. If nothing else, it will save you money, as an under-inflated tyre will wear out quicker than a correctly inflated one, and cause worse fuel economy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T10:31:04.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15860" CreationDate="2015-03-12T11:59:16.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanics are very resourceful, and I doubt you'd have any issue working with them in India, even in ill equipped small shops. The company itself would have taken cognizance of this fact. Also, maybe this was a design decision since this is styled like a &quot;cafe racer&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might have to shell out a little extra for the little inconvenience you cause. Get a repair stand if you undertake any amount of maintenance work yourself. This hardly sounds like a deal breaker.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Where I see this becoming an issue is if you find yourself stranded with a flat (long solo rides?). In this case where the best option is to remove the wheel yourself and transport it to a shop, you'l have to deal with the annoyance you're foreseeing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, since we're talking about India, where parking spaces are optimized like latest compression algorithms in data storage, you might miss the ability to squeeze your bike into tight parking opportunities. Kidding there.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Installing a center stand should be a fairly easy job! I'm fairly certain that you could buy an oem center stand for the HERO SPLENDOR and have it fixed to this model as the chassis is most likely to be the same. Even if not, it shouldn't be something your mechanic can't handle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOfAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Auto Expo 2014 Delhi&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T08:04:35.337" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T08:04:35.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T15:03:20.073" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know someone who has to drive on a sandy road or dirt road everyday.&#xA;She drives a van 2015 and has factory rims with 4 cut outs in the rims&#xA;for air flow i guess. It was factory made that way. She has to drive on a dirt road&#xA;2 miles long everyday before she reaches the main paved road. The sand is &#xA;cutting groves in her front rotors. What can be done about that? I am unsure what to do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9734" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T07:29:42.883" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T07:29:42.883" Title="Sand on road cutting grooves in brake rotors" Tags="|wheels|brake-rotor|wear|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T15:35:58.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T15:09:56.813" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Civic Hybrid 2004.  Check Engine light comes on every time I return from Griffith Obs.  Every month I have an evening meeting.  I park facing downhill, so when I go home I turn on the car and coast the 2-3 miles to a major road.  By The time I get to that road the check engine light is on. One time I took it to Honda and they said it was the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens 100% of the time (for the last 7 months) I make that trip.  It is the only time the light comes on.  It always goes off within 2-3 days.  What do you think would cause an O2 sensor to trigger under these conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9735" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T15:09:56.813" Title="Check Engine light comes on every time I return from Griffith obs" Tags="|honda|civic|hybrid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T05:04:03.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T15:41:21.903" Score="6" ViewCount="7097" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just started yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instance#1: After about 10-15 of driving (note: It had been about 12 hrs since it was last used) I was waiting at a traffic light when it stalled. I attempted to start would not crank over. A few minutes later I was able to start it right up no issues. Drove it about another 20-30 min to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instance#2: Same day about 11 hrs later. I left for home about 10-15 min into driving on the freeway at about 65 mph it stalled and was able to get it over to the side of the road. I tried to start it right back up, just would not crank over. I opened the hood checked for any loose wires and checked the battery cables. Started right up, maybe a few minutes had gone by. Drove it the rest of the way home about another 30-40 min no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instance#3: Next day. I started up about 30 minutes before leaving for work. After about 10-15 minutes idling in my drive way it stalled. It would not crank over after trying to re-start it. I tried a few times even after what felt like a few minutes as with the previous instances. Still would not crank over. Went back inside to finish getting ready came back out and started it right up, drove it all the way to work no issues about 40 min drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&#xA;Keep in mind the battery was just replaced two weeks ago along with 8 plugs, wire set, distributor-cap, rotor, pcv and ignition pickup. About two weeks ago battery died, replaced it and car would not crank over had it towed and the replaced the previously mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Now that I have been at work for about 6 hrs, it will not even start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I took it to another mechanic who specializes in Jeeps. In less than 2 minutes he found an issue, ignition pickup. Hopefully its the only issue. When ever he would just wiggle the wire coming from the ignition pickup it would stall.  Supposedly according to invoice it was replaced. However when I observe the wire coming from it, it looks old.  More updates to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: After taking it back to the original place to have them re-check there work they discovered that some of the parts they replaced where bad. Supposedly they replaced the coil, camshaft, ignition pickup. This was on 3/17. Its been driving fine since with the exception the ABS light came either that same day or the next. Then on 3/29 It had a hard time starting, not sure how really to describe it. I turned the key once to start it started to start then made some odd noise (twice). I turned it off and back on again and it started. I noticed today the Check engine light came on and received error code 43. So I am taking it back to them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6626" LastEditorUserId="6626" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T18:48:58.120" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T20:56:03.770" Title="Jeep stalls after about 10-15 minutes driving or idling" Tags="|starting|ignition|jeep|idle|driving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5037" CreationDate="2015-03-12T17:32:45.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1996 Toyota Avalon... My wife moved the passenger seat forward and when she released the switch and it kept going and she let it go. I think it either burn the motor out or a kicked a breaker. After removing the four bolts on each side that hold the seat to the frame the seat moved back.I remover the plastic trim piece that had 2 tiny screws And exposed the motor that runs the seat forward and rearward. There are 2 -12 mm bolts that turn the shaft which move the seat forward and back. You can manually adjust the seat by turning either of those bolts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9740" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T17:32:45.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15884" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:26:19.833" Score="2" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Scion XD which crossed 126K miles today.(Bought it with 62K) In recent months I have noticed a decrease in overall MPG to a tank. I do close to 30K miles per year and also do oil changes every 5K with mostly highway driving. My question is where do I start on the maintenance to keep it going cause its a good car I just don't wanna lose out because of bad upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other details last transmission fluid change was at 83K miles, tires are all new and the front brakes are fairly new I got them completely redone in December 2013. Other than its been oil changes and tire rotations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you need any more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9741" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T12:11:44.240" Title="2008 Scion XD 126K" Tags="|toyota|maintenance|oil-change|scheduled-maintenance|scion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:41:11.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha SZR bike, 4-year-old, and I used to change the air filter every 8,000 km. It's an orange paper air filter. I use a method to clean the air filter every 1,500 km and it really works if you do it carefully. It takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soak the air filter for 3-4 hour in detergent solution in a bucket, you can see a huge amount of dirt and dust settle in the bottom of bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now open the tap and just allow fresh water to pass into it and make sure that no detergent remains.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Never try to wash it by brush or anything. It is wet paper and if you do that you could damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow the filter to dry completely, just like clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this technique to clean your air filter after every service. No service center, no matter how good it is, has the time to do it the proper way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9742" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:40:48.080" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:40:48.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T21:13:12.240" Score="5" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;The knock sensor for my 2001 Subaru Outback grounds through the engine block. I've seen various advice about whether to put dielectric grease on the underside (where the grounding takes place). Some say 'no' - it will add resistance to the ground path, others say 'yes' - the resistance is negligible, and it will help prevent corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: is it recommended to put dieletric grease between the knock sensor and the engine block? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context: I replaced the knock sensor 1 week ago, and I used dieletric grease. Seemed fine at first (no CEL, no OBDII codes), then today the CEL came back on with code P0328. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9743" LastEditorUserId="9743" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T16:53:45.033" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T17:21:34.087" Title="Knock sensor ground and dieletric grease" Tags="|electrical|subaru|cel|grease|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18032" CreationDate="2015-03-12T21:18:20.583" Score="7" ViewCount="9737" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Renault Modus 1.4 16v Dynamique 5dr 2005. The symptoms are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car wouldn't start last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car cranks but does not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push started the car in 2nd, engine starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took The car for a drive, stopped the engine, started it. All fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Came back next day, car cranks but does not start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery should be fine. Replaced it 2 weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I push start the car again now, drive round the block, the car will start normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9744" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T11:12:46.270" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T09:45:42.853" Title="Renault Modus wont start" Tags="|battery|starting|starter|renault|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T23:14:13.627" Score="6" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2014 Hyundai i30 GD Active Hatch, 1.6l diesel manual, just had the 15000km service done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of the service I got a report from the dealer that the front alignment was 0 mm and 6 mm toe in at the rear.  They indicated that the rear aligment was not ideal but that there was nothing they could do about it as there was no adjustment on the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been a minor vibration problem since new that checks and aligments by the dealer and a tyre place have not improved.  I am now wondering if this rear alignment issue may be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of questions I'm hoping you can help me with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there really no way to adjust the rear alignment on the current i30 ? (I thought this sounded very strange for a modern car)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the 6mm toe in at the rear significant and would this be likely to cause vibration or uneven tyre wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkN7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test Report&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9745" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T22:21:18.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T05:42:18.717" Title="i30 GD Diesel hatch rear wheel alignment query" Tags="|hyundai|vibration|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24369" CreationDate="2015-03-13T00:09:38.557" Score="9" ViewCount="1428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 VW Jetta. The other day I was pulling into my garage and hit the side of the car. There are several dents and paint scratches. What would be the cheapest and easiest way to get this damage fixed? Sorry if this question isn't fit for this stack exchange, first time posting here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the damage:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OmSD7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1666" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:53:33.770" Title="What would be the best and cheapest way to fix these dents and scratches?" Tags="|vw|jetta|paint-scratches|dent|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38677" CreationDate="2015-03-13T04:29:43.600" Score="6" ViewCount="53845" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my 2003 Infiniti g35 at the mechanic to fix an electrical problem (turns out remote starter wires were rubbing and causing a short) and to fix an oil leak. All in all they changed the ignition fuse and a couple relays, and the oil cooler seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Ever since I got it back from them the car turns off most of the time immediately after starting it. It looks like it's due to the RPM dropping very low, and if I give it gas in the first second it is able to overcome that initial drop and go on to maintain 200-1000 idle RPM and doesn't turn off. Basically this video is exactly what I experience: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKFe76479ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKFe76479ws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic suggested seafoam with premium gas, which I tried but it did not fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my research it seems like this would be caused by a dirty throttle body. This car never had these issues before I took it to this mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does that diagnosis sound correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is it possible that the mechanic unintentionally caused this? (Maybe they got some dust on the throttle body or something?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Is it true that Nissan and Infiniti throttle bodies should not be cleaned by someone who is not an expert (i.e. dealer) due to it being a delicate operation and easy to mess up and require some sort of electrical reprogramming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9469" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T10:48:05.730" LastActivityDate="2019-03-13T22:02:58.127" Title="Car turns off due to low RPM, only when starting car" Tags="|starting|rough-idle|throttle|g35|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15793" CreationDate="2015-03-13T05:08:50.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The parts are called:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#1 Windshield washer arm hose (the only name that makes sense, there isn't really a standard name for it besides windshield washer hose which confuses it with other hoses of that system)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#2 Windshield washer hose connector / nipple (some may call it nozzle but that confuses it with the end part that actually sprays)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#3 Windshield washer arm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to replace the arm (#3) or the nipple connector (#2) in order to replace the arm hose. It is quite easy to disconnect the arm hose (#1) from the other parts and find a replacement. In my search for a replacement hose car part stores tell me to go to the dealership, but it seems I can just get a similarly-sized hose from a home hardware store and fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9469" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T05:08:50.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15982" CreationDate="2015-03-13T09:16:00.663" Score="4" ViewCount="12487" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a general question regarding air/fuel ratios. I want to know why Subaru specifically insists on making their cars run ridiculously rich under boost. For instance, my 2007 Forester XT has an AFR of 10.5 under full boost (hard acceleration). ANd it's not just mine, all turbo Subaru's run very rich. My previous car rarely went below 11.5. As far as I was aware, the best AFR for heavy loads is around 11.5 to 12.5. 10.5 just seems a bit dangerous (Yes, there is such a thing as too rich). I have a small-ish TD04 turbo on it and it doesn't boost more than 0.8bar/11.5PSI and quickly tapers off to 0.6bar/9PSI so there's not much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should probably point out that under normal driving conditions, the AFR hovers around a pretty healthy 14.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T03:34:07.610" Title="Why do Subarus run so rich under boost" Tags="|subaru|turbocharger|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15881" CreationDate="2015-03-13T10:22:19.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually running rich is &lt;em&gt;less dangerous&lt;/em&gt; than running lean. I don't know specifically about Subaru, but in general, running lean can cause detonation more easily. And yes, while 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric ratio deemed as perfect for an air fuel mixture, running rich has the big advantage of reducing the chances of pre-ignition or &lt;em&gt;pinging&lt;/em&gt;. In a turbo car, this could be considered death rattle because it can destroy the engine quickly. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this entry&lt;/a&gt; on the interwebz which sums things up pretty well in concern of boosted engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a closer look. As the air-fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, a flame front propagates from the spark plug. The now-burning mixture raises the cylinder pressure and temperature, peaking at some point in the combustion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine: reduce boost, adjust the AFR to richer mixture, and retard ignition timing. These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, while we say 14.7:1 is the &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; air fuel ratio for a complete burn of the mixture, most vehicle manufacturers run their tunes a bit rich in the first place straight out of the box. This holds true whether the vehicle uses forced induction or is naturally aspirated. Because of this, I was a bit surprised you said your car runs at 14.7:1 when not under load as it doesn't seem right ... that is unless you've had some tuning done on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T10:22:19.787" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15878" CreationDate="2015-03-13T11:05:07.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Does that diagnosis sound correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafoam sounds like a good way to go, but in this case it isn't going to cure the ill. The throttle body itself needs to be cleaned. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIjOhJSJN_8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which should show you pretty much how to clean it (as long as your engine is the same as the G35 in the video). Since the engine has reusable gaskets, as long as you are careful with the removal and installation of the throttle body (TB) you won't have any issues. You are just trying not to damage it, which in actuality shouldn't happen with the TB removal. If the TB to manifold gasket is dried out and cracked, it will need replacement, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I said Seafoam isn't going to do much for you as the mechanic suggested, it's because adding it to the gas tank &lt;em&gt;will not clean the TB&lt;/em&gt;. It will clean the fuel system and injectors, but won't make it to the TB because the top end of the intake tract is dry (meaning gas is not found there). You could possibly use Seafoam using &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this method&lt;/a&gt;, which may help some, but even in this case, it wouldn't get to the TB, so you'll need to use the carb cleaner method to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Is it possible that the mechanic unintentionally caused this? (Maybe they got some dust on the throttle body or something?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You never know about this as who knows what goes through the mind of a mechanic, but for the most part, mechanics are not going to do something to your vehicle, especially if this is a mechanic which you've known for a while. The reason I say this is because, while they want business, &lt;em&gt;repeat business&lt;/em&gt; is where the money is at. If they start screwing their patrons over by doing things to their customers, they will soon find that through word of mouth they will run out of customers and business. I'm not saying there aren't shady mechs out there, I'm saying that they are usually few and far between. I would personally stay away from shops which have the moniker of &quot;The Honest Mechanic&quot; or some such, but that's just me ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Is it true that Nissan and Infiniti throttle bodies should not be cleaned by someone who is not an expert (i.e. dealer) due to it being a delicate operation and easy to mess up and require some sort of electrical reprogramming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have not done a TB cleaning on Nissan/Infiniti vehicles, but looking at the video I posted above, it doesn't look any more awkward than any other TB I've seen. As long as a person is careful (as in not banging the TB around), there should not be any problem with a layman cleaning the TB. You do want to be careful with not over tightening the four Allen head screws which attach the TB to the intake. Other than that, ensure you are using a good brand of carb cleaner, such as CRC and you should be golden. The only things I'd do differently is to wear some nitrile gloves to keep the cleaner off of your hands and don't use a rag to clean out inside of the TB. Instead, utilize enough of the cleaner to flush the residue off of the TB. Just be ready with a couple of cans of the stuff and there shouldn't be an issue. The carb cleaner will completely evaporate, so it won't leave any residue behind on the engine and such, but put a rag under the TB while you are at it if you like to catch the cleaner and gunk as you clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T11:05:07.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2015-03-13T12:11:44.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where you need to start is at the O2 sensors and spark plugs, plus a thorough cleaning of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and upper intake tract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scion.com/assets/pdf/xD_maintenance/xd_maintenanceguide_08.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;scheduled maintenance guide&lt;/a&gt; for your vehicle, I'm not seeing these things mentioned (though I did a cursory glance). It is common practice for original O2 sensors and spark plugs to last for 100k miles on a vehicle. I noticed you didn't mention you changed them, so am mentioning. What happens is exactly as you describe as these items become older and well used ... that being gas mileage slowly goes down. The O2 sensors become what is known as &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt;. Basically, they don't work as efficiently so fuel mileage suffers. As spark plugs become old, they to do not burn fuel as well as they used to. The gaps become wider and wider until they fail to allow spark to pass. Changing these two things out (all spark plugs, plus front and rear O2s) along with a computer reset should help increase your fuel mileage back to where you are used to seeing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are getting them changed, getting the upper intake tract and sensors which affect engine efficiency cleaned will help as well. I would get this type of cleaning done every 50k to help with the optimal running of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would change out the air filter if this is something which you have not done. This can cause a lack of air flow into the engine, causing you to push further on the gas to get the same amount of power out of the engine. This will cause a reduction in gas mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T12:11:44.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16046" CreationDate="2015-03-13T12:45:47.430" Score="6" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a remote field station in central Africa, and we are purchasing a quad (probably a Yahama Grizzly) to ease access. Given parts and funding are hard to get hold of, I would like to take full advantage of their current availability and get a set of spare parts that will probably be required in the next few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically weekly usage will be 100km along an old forestry road (dirt track) with some pretty rough patches. It will probably be pulling a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will have a maintenance protocol (e.g. washing, drying, spraying with WD40, oil checks and changes) but if there are any other suggestions from people familiar with quads, they would be more than welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9748" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T13:37:17.470" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T17:36:35.903" Title="Commonly required spare parts for quad bike (e.g. Yahama Grizzly)" Tags="|maintenance|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15938" CreationDate="2015-03-13T17:02:42.690" Score="6" ViewCount="4509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an 81 Suzuki GS450L, my very first bike. I'm not getting a spark. When it dies, it does so silently.  No backfire, sputtering, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that it had aftermarket handle bars and it might have an issue in the emergency cutoff, but that should result in &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; power being sent to spark plug. That isn't what is happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My testing so far has consisted of the following. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took a spare spark plug and grounded it to the engine block.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm getting no visible spark. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used a non contact voltage detector and connected it to the spark plug wire. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It shows a series of evenly spaced pulses as I try to turn the engine over, as would be expected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have time later tonight I'm going to use my multimeter to determine exactly what kind of voltage / amperage I'm getting at the plug.. What else should I be looking at / considering? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T10:21:13.400" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T10:21:13.400" Title="No spark on my new motorcycle" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|troubleshooting|sparkplugs|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T17:28:12.637" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;12v car power supply with 160a alternator and 30a relay, will this system support upsizing the cooling fan from 7a to 20a?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="jaxduck" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T01:30:25.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T01:30:25.443" Title="Upsizing a hot rod cooling fan from 7a to 20a" Tags="|electrical|fan|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2015-03-13T21:22:04.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a typical old school Hot Rod it should be more than enough. Most cars from the 60's and early 70's used alternators that only had an output of 50-75 amps. If you have a large high powered amplifier or some other high load device you have to calculate for that. I don't understand the reference to a 30 amp relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T21:22:04.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T21:42:47.470" Score="3" ViewCount="4043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Nissan Altima. My headlights won't turn on, but my parking lights and tail lights won't turn off unless I unhook my battery. Any ideas what the problem might be? Or a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9749" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T00:59:02.920" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:01:56.447" Title="Headlights won't turn on &amp; taillights won't turn off" Tags="|electrical|nissan|headlight|tail-lights|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2015-03-13T22:05:43.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @mikes stated that this depend on the amount of power which is already being drawn on the system. That said, 160A alternator is a fairly large alternator. If you don't have a lot of other things on the system, there should be no issue with the power draw itself. Your amp draw is only going up by 13A at peak draw. A 30A relay is more than enough to handle a 20A fan, so there should be no issue there either. The one thing you really need to look at here is whether the fan itself is going to draw enough air to cool what you need cooled. Other things to consider is the size of the radiator itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T22:05:43.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16020" CreationDate="2015-03-14T01:05:58.147" Score="4" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, which, when I bought it, only the speaker in back left door was working. The sound quality was fine, so I made do with just the one speaker. But a couple days ago, while the radio was playing, I heard a loud sharp pop, much like a gunshot, followed by a distinct electrical burning smell that faded away after about 30 seconds. The instant I heard the pop, the speaker stopped working, and it's been silent ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head unit seems to still be functioning fine. The radio was not playing very loud, so I don't think the speaker was blown, but I'm not sure how to begin trouble shooting. The only thing I did was pull out the speaker, which is a 4 ohm speaker, and run a resistance test on it. I got a steady 4 ohms, which I &lt;strong&gt;think&lt;/strong&gt; means the speaker is still okay, but I'm not sure. Does anyone know what other tests I should try to figure out what broke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mechanically proficient, but I only have a very rudimentary understanding of electrical stuff, so while I can fix the problem once I know what it is, I just don't know how to go about diagnosing the issue. Any help would be so much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:11:56.593" Title="Ford Expedition Speakers - Loud Pop and Burning Smell" Tags="|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11624" CreationDate="2015-03-14T04:42:24.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A big fat NO. I'm a corrosion engineer, trust me you don't have to play with the PH of solution and alter (generally increase) the corrosion rate of your radiator. Corrosion rates can raise up to like your radiator vanishing in 6-8 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PH highly influences corrosion of copper that's why the coolant has a inhibitor (chemical specie) that controls the PH according to conditions of pressure, temperature, and PH of fluid. It keeps it in the favor of radiator material, ie: copper, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9750" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T10:54:19.993" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T10:54:19.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15896" CreationDate="2015-03-14T03:41:50.303" Score="8" ViewCount="103555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to modify my SUV into a camping car. Can I charge my car battery through cigar lighter socket with a 13.6 voltage when my engine is off? Also, can I power the air conditioning compressor and dashboard of my car through the same socket, and when my engine is also off? I plan to set up an AC to DC converter to do that. Is it electrically dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61963" OwnerDisplayName="Superuser" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T13:54:40.263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T23:48:25.190" Title="Is it possible to charge car battery through cigar lighter socket?" Tags="|ac|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15530" CreationDate="2015-03-14T04:52:55.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;what i get is that it might be some clip that holds the brake assembly coming in contact with something when u brake moderately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happens when car is warm---&gt;temperature increases the metal clip/strip of brake assembly EXPANDS like it was 7 mm it expands to 7.2 mm comes in contact abrasively with other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on slamming brakes hard u dont get the sound right? Maybe because the bads or the assembly moves deeper towards the rotor/discs and hence the gap betweeen clip/strip increase so no contact occure, while on moderate braking the bads are not depressed much and the expanded/displaced clip/strips touches the bads or any other part because of which u hear the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be because ur front suspension had been to a hard jerk on a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9750" LastEditorUserId="9750" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T04:58:53.013" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T04:58:53.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T10:10:40.527" Score="3" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my car serviced two weeks ago fuel consumption and great and been driving smoothly. Yesterday driving from work it suddenly started smoking terribly. Stop at the gas station checked the oil and it was over filled so assumed it just excess burning of. Then this morning pull it out and checked the oil again and the level is low. Still smokes like crazy if I step on the gass and u can smell its oil burning. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T10:40:24.357" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T12:28:00.813" Title="2006 Volvo s40 started smoking suddenly" Tags="|engine|volvo|s40|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15893" CreationDate="2015-03-14T11:54:44.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to charge the battery through a cigarette lighter socket, but there is a couple of caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car's circuitry must have the lighter socket &quot;live&quot;. It may require setting the ignition switch to &quot;accessories.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The charge rate must be kept low enough not to blow a fuse associated with the lighter socket (often 10 Amps). At 10 A it is going to take several minutes to get a depleted battery charged enough to crank the engine successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are commercial products that work on this principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems you do not so much want to charge the battery but to keep it charged while running electrical devices. This is possible, but the 10 A limit means you can not go over 135 W of sustained total power draw without depleting your battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning compressor is driven by a belt drive from the engine, so you cannot run that from a purely electric source. There may be AC compressors that are powered by AC electricity or by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blower that circulated the air is electric and can be powered from the battery.  The dashboard is mostly electric, the only bits I can imagine being of use in a stationary vehicle are the entertainment system and the clock. They can be powered this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-10-15T01:09:02.473" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T01:09:02.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15895" CreationDate="2015-03-14T12:19:19.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoke is a white slight blue colour. At the gass station the attending and I both triple checked it. I was way over the full mark. I had driven the car and it was at temperature when switched off. This morning I pulled it out of the garage and then checked it three times and it was at the bottom stripe of the dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T12:19:19.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15875" CreationDate="2015-03-14T13:42:15.123" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to start, it just cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have the petrol model, not a diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, it sounds like either an ignition fault, or a fuel-supply issue. Since the car runs when push-started, and since modern vehicles are fitted with electronic timing systems, it's &lt;em&gt;unlikely&lt;/em&gt; to be that, so most probably a fuel-supply issue. Maybe the pre-start fuel pump is on the blink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Test You Could Try&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Renault's have a manual primer pump that looks like a black rubber bladder under the bonnet. Your user manual will give more details - it's usually used in the event that you run out of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try pumping it a few times before you start the vehicle and see if that helps - if it &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; then you probably need a new fuel pump. Best to confirm with a garage. If you don't have that device, you can't test it unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you park on a steep gradient and there isn't tons of fuel in the tank, it might not be picking up any, but that's very unlikely in modern vehicles (used to be a problem in older Kia's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spark plugs are clogged or there's loads of water around the ignition system, it might be difficult to start when cold. However, if it's regularly serviced there's no reason to suspect either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I can think of right now. I hope you figure out what's up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastEditorUserId="7697" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T14:05:05.857" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T14:05:05.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15530" CreationDate="2015-03-14T14:21:55.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt; The sound is probably caused by your brakes, most likely worn brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you would only hear &quot;tyre squeal&quot; if the vehicle is losing (or at least scrabbling for) grip during the braking period. If that's the case, you will know it's the tyres! That takes a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of braking force, and not likely something that will happen casually. So, I would say it's certainly the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are absolutely certain that you're not hearing the &quot;low brake pad&quot; warning made by the steel warning point against the disc, then it might be your pads have shaped in such a way as to cause the noise. Do you do lots of highway driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you could try to remedy the shape of the pads (which is a microscopic change) is to find a safe, uninhabited car park or stretch of road (tarmac). Reverse the car, and gain a bit of speed. Once you're going at 15-20mph, brake moderately well to bring the car to a complete stop. Go forward and reapeat about 5-10 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure will help to shape the pads so that they are not point-contacting the disc, but so that more of the face of the pads engage with the discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could buy some very inexpensive brake grease (yes it's a real thing) from your local part store or garage and squeeze that onto the discs. It's designed to reduce noisy brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if the vehicle is braking unevenly (pulling to one side or other) get it checked out by a professional - your brakes are too important to leave to chance! All the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastEditorUserId="7697" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T19:20:01.840" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T19:20:01.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15893" CreationDate="2015-03-14T14:33:56.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not going to be able to power the accessories through the cigarette lighter like you are suggesting. The biggest issue would be you would not be able to provide enough power through it to replenish what is being drawn from the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better idea is to attach permanent leads to your battery which you can access easily. This will allow you to supply the power to the vehicle which will not allow the battery to deplete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even another idea is to install a separate deep cycle battery to provide the juice to the accessories which you want to run, yet will be completely autonomous from the main vehicle battery. This way you will never run the risk of the vehicle being stranded due to over use of the battery. There are several different products on the market which will do this for you (they may or may not use a deep cycle battery, but will use a dual battery setup). You might want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/6116/4152&quot;&gt;check out this&lt;/a&gt; thread and see if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T20:35:54.937" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T20:35:54.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T14:58:02.647" Score="4" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the gases checked in my overflow tank (which boils short distances) and also over heats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two different mechanics tested the gases and said it's not the head gasket but yet it still boils in the overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also overheats when the temperature outside starts warming up, this winter I could drive it anywhere and it didn't over heat but now that spring is here its is starting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My husband has changed the thermostat twice and radiator cap. I also had the radiator fan replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions as to why it's overheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9756" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T15:03:39.303" Title="Overheating &amp; boiling in the overflow tank" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15902" CreationDate="2015-03-14T15:03:39.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few options to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant concentration, but if the mechanics tested the gases to be sure they check the concentration level. Too little antifreeze in relation to water will negatively affect boiling temp. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;radiator is stopped up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water pump veins warn off causing low coolant flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T15:03:39.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8611" CreationDate="2015-03-14T18:29:52.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be normal behavior.  From the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1566375770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Auto Fundamentals&lt;/a&gt;, pg. 146-147 in the section &quot;Cold Start Aids&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During cold startup on some systems, an auxiliary air regulator admits additional air into the intake manifold to increase the idle speed.  The auxiliary air regulator is controlled by a thermostatic switch located in the engine water jacket.  At a coolant temperature of -13 F ( -25 C ), the thermostatic switch allows the maximum airflow through the air regulator.  As the coolant warms up, the air regulator flow is gradually decreased.  When the temperature reaches 140 F ( 60 C ), airflow is completely shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would probably be in fuel injected vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also discusses such mechanisms in regards to carburetor based intake systems in which idle is increased while the engine is warming up ( Fast Idle Cam pg. 179 ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the engine is warming up, it is necessary to increase the idle speed to prevent stalling... When the choke is on, the fast idle cam swings out in front of the idle speed adjustment screw. This holds the throttle valve partially open to speed up the engine.  As the choke opens, the fast idle cam swings down and the throttle returns to its regular hot idle position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, it sounds like whatever type of intake system you have, it's going to be set up to have a high idle when the engine is very cold, and the idle will slowly return to normal as the engine heats up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T18:29:52.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15906" CreationDate="2015-03-14T19:48:06.113" Score="2" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent hours to find what this part is called in English, could anyone please tell me ?&#xA;it's close to front wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4b7ku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsuJV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9757" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T20:59:30.997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T20:59:30.997" Title="correct English name for specific car part" Tags="|car|part-identification|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15905" CreationDate="2015-03-14T20:00:09.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture I would say a &quot;lower control arm&quot;. It is also referred to as an &quot;A&quot; arm. The usual reasons for needing to change it are a worn ball joint if it is integrated into the arm and worn bushings, again if they are integrated into the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T20:00:09.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="110" CreationDate="2015-03-14T20:58:32.613" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, how do you measure the effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: by measuring the tension between the unbraced mount points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I installed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rallysportdirect.com/symbolic_link.cfm?symbolic_link_text=Whiteline-Rear-Strut-Tower-Bar-Subaru-WRX-Wagon-2002-2007&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Whiteline rear strut bar&lt;/a&gt; on my 2004 WRX wagon.  The car has 162K miles on the odometer and has always seemed in need of a little more stiffness in the area of the rear seats.  There's a large volume back there without any sort of cross bracing (unlike a sedan) and the brace certainly seemed worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the spirit of my original question, however, I wanted to see if I could measure the effect on the chassis in a static scenario.  I tried two situations: flat on four wheels and with the driver's side rear wheel on four stacked 2x10 boards (which puts the wheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#North_American_softwoods&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;about six inches&lt;/a&gt; above the ground).  I installed the circular fittings on the car and attempted to collect some reference imagery along with a little qualitative data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: yes, in an optimal world, I would have used steel wire and a tension gauge.  In the spirit of run what you brung, though....&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, leaving the wheel flat on the garage floor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgU5d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The inside of my car with some paracord, a reference line and some junk.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you see there are the connecting holes on the braces with a double line of fairly hefty paracord running between them and tightened with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker%27s_hitch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;trucker's hitch&lt;/a&gt;.  I added the sticky pads for some visual reference at the time.  I later added the green line from the bottom of both connecting holes using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getpaint.net/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paint.net&lt;/a&gt;.  If you've used a trucker's hitch, you know that you can get the line pretty taught: it made a solid &quot;bwong&quot; when I flicked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the equivalent image when one wheel is pretty high up, balanced on some quite sketchy lumber:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEoKM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I&amp;#39;m so glad that my wife didn&amp;#39;t see what I was doing....&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is both disappointing and satisfying at the same time.  The car clearly isn't made of rubber and tin foil (that's good) but it's also not showing an obvious flex that I could use to say &quot;see? this was clearly money well spent and I am a genius!&quot;  Sadly, if you zoom way in, you can see that the front line looks largely the same as in the first image.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is less obvious is what's going on in the rear line (the part where the knots are).  That line is showing some droop (a bit but it's there).  What you can't see at all is the change in tension in the line.  Whereas before I had a nice &quot;bwong,&quot; at this point it was definitely mushy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of all this, I think I can conclude that, yes, for this specific car, I can measure a definite opportunity for improvement in chassis rigidity that this part will address.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, when it's not the snowiest goddamn winter that the world has ever seen, I'll see if I can find a way to measure differences in handling that don't involve me being a huge donkey on public roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T20:58:32.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16887" CreationDate="2015-03-14T20:59:43.973" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just busted my knuckles breaking the oxygen sensors free in hopes of swapping them to see if the problem stayed on the driver side or went with the sensor. Only to find out the connectors are different on driver and passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why oh why did GM decide it was a good idea to have unique connectors on each side? Is there any reason I can't depin and repin them as long as I carefully track the wire colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9705" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:20:54.940" Title="For the love of all things sacred, what technical reason was there for GM to put a different connector on each side for the rear oxygen sensors?" Tags="|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15939" CreationDate="2015-03-14T21:37:11.007" Score="2" ViewCount="4116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my safety inspection done today? The mechanic says that my shocks and struts need replacing. In order to prove it to me, he pushed the left tire up and down which caused the thing in the picture bellow to move up and down with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yu5My.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a valid sign that they need replacing?  I also looked up online and it appears that replacing is common every 50,000 miles or so. Is that true? My Chevy has 54,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9759" LastEditorDisplayName="user9759" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T01:45:19.197" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:14:30.023" Title="How much to replace shocks and struts for a 2010 Chevy Aveo?" Tags="|replace|shock-absorber|struts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15914" CreationDate="2015-03-14T22:24:12.970" Score="4" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '08 Honda Fit with a 5-speed manual transmission.  I hit a steep hill earlier today and decided to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, so I didn't ride the brake for several miles.  Before my RPMs had come up and while the clutch was still slipping, my foot slipped from the clutch pedal, causing the car to lurch back pretty hard and causing a click sound to come from under the car (forward, probably from the transmission).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After driving stick for years, this is the first time such a thing happens (I was wearing a new pair of shoes).  I wonder what sort of damage can occur as a result of this sort of situation.  I drove the remaining several miles home and the car seemed to be in perfect working order.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9761" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:33:13.927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:33:13.927" Title="Foot slipped off clutch while downshifting. Damage?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T22:34:39.763" Score="1" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Camry 2009 Hybrid with a Nav system and the bluetooth is pretty old. It can't stream, and it gets all confused when multiple phones are paired to it. (It only connects to the last paired phone automatically.) I'd like to upgrade the sound system to &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; that supports modern BlueTooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options? It seems that there is no software update available. But I've had a hard time finding after-market stereo systems that will allow me to unplug the Nav System / DVD / Radio / Etc and have the new one &quot;just work.&quot;  (They claim to do this, but I'm not sure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the other question --- how hard is this to do?  And what does it do to my extended warrantee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9762" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T22:34:39.763" Title="Upgrade Bluetooth in Toyota 2009 Camry Hybrid" Tags="|toyota|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-19T19:55:50.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15912" CreationDate="2015-03-15T00:50:26.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's not good for the engine, transmission, clutch, or other drive train parts, I doubt you've done any damage to the vehicle. Do realize that actions like this will cause damage over time. This is called stress damage as parts were only made to sustain so much stress before they fail. If this is the first time, there shouldn't be anything to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T00:50:26.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T01:26:04.817" Score="3" ViewCount="3138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 2013 Chevy Malibu LTZ and every time I turn on the air conditioner, there is this horrible odor of rotten feet that comes out of the vent.  The longer I run it, the stronger it gets.  Can you please tell me what is causing this and what I can do about it.  I am still under warranty and I just purchased the vehicle from a dealer on the 28 of February.  It is a certified vehicle and I still have factory warranty on it as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you are able to give me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9764" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:16:09.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:16:09.473" Title="Horrible rotten feet smell from my 2013 chevy malibu ltz" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|hvac|malibu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T00:11:19.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2015-03-15T11:59:08.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Niva's condition is an advantage to increase tyre size. Why don't you put a bigger tyre (radius, not width) instead of playing with final drive ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9767" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T11:59:08.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T14:34:44.573" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is making an odd noise, which you can hear in &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/mfA1Xz6mUzo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only makes the noise as soon as I turn the car on. Can someone let me know what it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS light has also come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T22:18:59.220" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T22:18:59.220" Title="What is this noise?" Tags="|noise|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-20T19:41:27.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T18:07:46.330" Score="2" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;('06 Acura TL)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have jumped my car a number of times now. With each jump the car has been hooked up to the other car for about the same amount of time. It seems that there seems to be a direct relationship between the distance I drive the car after it gets jumped and the amount of time the battery lasts until it dies again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a point had driven the car ~160 miles with the battery lasting maybe 3-4 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do believe the battery passed whatever the typical tests? are which would be performed on a battery with both AutoZone as well as AAA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts as to for what I may not be accounting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car battery draining sooner than expected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9770" LastEditorUserId="9770" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T19:20:05.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T01:10:04.810" Title="Issues ensuring battery stays charged" Tags="|honda|battery|acura|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15917" CreationDate="2015-03-15T21:04:02.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the limited info available it sounds like the ABS pump running. I can't think of anything else that cycles that fast. Why it would be running at start up I haven't a clue. You could try pulling the ABS fuse and see if the noise stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T21:04:02.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T00:58:27.200" Score="4" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been away 6 months asked friend to turn car engine over once a week , now he told me car battery died over Christmas, so what I want to know if there is any damage done to the electronic systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 3 yr old Skoda Octavia (petrol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9774" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:50:18.347" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T12:50:18.347" Title="Dead battery any damage done" Tags="|battery|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15921" CreationDate="2015-03-16T01:15:29.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the vehicle is started, either with a new battery (if the current one is damaged beyond use ... might be, considering the amount of time it was dead) or with the one which is in there already after it's been recharged, I doubt you'll see any issues with the electronics or otherwise. There are a few exceptions to this, one of those being if rodents have entered the picture and found insulation of your wiring as bedding material. As mentioned, the battery, having sit for so long, may have issues. You'll have to see if it will hold a charge. If you have a battery charger available, I'd try getting it up to charge with that, before starting the vehicle. Using the charging system in the vehicle will work, but a charger is a much better options for the battery and for the car itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T01:15:29.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T09:10:29.617" Score="2" ViewCount="1328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving the weekend and pulled over heard the engine making a noise, saw there was no more water left in the car anymore, plus my fan was not working and my engine is letting out all the water through a small whole thats at the back of the engine. whats wrong besides for the fan which i now need to replace? Its a electric fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9776" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T18:30:01.727" Title="VW Velocity 1.6i 2007 Fan not working, engine leaking out all the water" Tags="|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15924" CreationDate="2015-03-16T12:37:10.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, it sounds as though you have a hole in a freeze plug. In most cases this can be fixed without engine removal or major work, though it will take some work to get to it and get it replaced. I would not run the engine any more until you get it fixed. A qualified mechanic should be able to take care of it for you without issue. What happens with the freeze plug is that corrosion will take place due to old/weak antifreeze. What may be a bigger issue here is if the other freeze plugs (ever engine has several) might be in the same basic condition, that is just waiting to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to discern what's going on with the fans. To me, they should be running. In most cases it can be tracked down to either a fuse, a relay, or possibly the temperature sending unit (sensor) as being bad. You can test the fan(s) by putting power to them directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T12:37:10.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15918" CreationDate="2015-03-16T15:04:06.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like an issue with your alternator. Before trying anything major, try taking a wire brush to your battery terminals. Often buildup on these can cause battery issues. I've had it on many cars before where they would not start due to this.&#xA;This link here may help you diagnose your issue further. You will need a multimeter to do this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T15:04:06.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14880" CreationDate="2015-03-16T16:52:48.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a friend that wanted to convert her minibus (Renault Master) into a camper and her requirements where to remove the false floor in order to free up around two/three feet of headspace along three quarters of the length of the minibus. I helped her to remove the floor and it wasn't too difficult. I'm a fairly amateur diy enthusiast. I'm presuming you're hesitant and asking as there are no obvious bolts etc to remove the floor. My friends false floor was moulded into the walls with a steel frame on the underside. It took me around four hours to remove it with a 230mm electric angle grinder. It worked well, just take your time and I wouldn't even try to tackle it with a 115mm angle grinder - it'd take forever and a day and the discs probably won't go all the way through. I used the grinder through the floor as well as the frame so it was an EXTREMELY dusty job. Be sure to use a good quality dust mask - good one costs £15. Keep all windows and doors open and have a spotter for stray sparks when working near the seats/soft furnishings. I went through about 5 discs. Just be careful of any wiring and you'll be fine. If I can do it (novice d.i.y'er) then anyone can! Hope this is helpful. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9779" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T16:52:48.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2015-03-16T19:56:42.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is true or false but apparently in D3 you're hitting a higher rpm, around 3k at 40 kph which would be engaging VTech on most Hondas. Not sure if that would change gas consumption. If true, this could possibly be a good gear for quick take off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9780" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:28:47.027" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:28:47.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15910" CreationDate="2015-03-16T22:01:29.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shock absorbers do much more in a vehicle than just provide a comfortable ride. They are crucial to the &lt;em&gt;stability&lt;/em&gt; of the vehicle, as I'm sure you know. They affect/prevent body roll, pitch, braking distance, etc, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got worn shocks and the kids freak out in the back while you're on the freeway, you'll know what I mean!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part you've highlighted is the top of the suspension assembly for the front tire. The assembly contains the shock and a spring. It sits between the wheel assembly and the body of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that part you've circled moves visibly &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;, it most definitely &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; time to have them replaced. It sounds like there is structural damage to the strut, since it should not move at all at that point; did you hit a massive pothole or a rock or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50,000 miles is a long way if it's town driving, less so for highways/freeways. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to have the shocks and suspension checked every 20k - 25k miles and I would also recommend that you have the shocks replaced every 40k - 50k depending on your type of mileage (town, freeway, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely have it looked at and I would drive very carefully until they are replaced. As for the title of your question, I have no clue as to pricing (being from Africa), sorry. Mahalo!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastEditorUserId="7697" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T22:08:33.930" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T22:08:33.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15918" CreationDate="2015-03-16T22:18:57.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with the comments and answers about the alternator. Also possible the alternator clutch is worn/faulty. Most alternators have a built-in clutch mechanism which disengages at x RPM to start charging the battery. It's typically around 1500 - 2000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you take the car for a drive, make sure at the outset that the revs exceed 2000 RPM (momentarily, not constantly; once the clutch disengages it should remain going). If that whole mechanism is worn, it could be that the charge is just not flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thought; you could ask a local garage to check the water level in the battery. Unless you've done this before, I don't think you should try it yourself; the water turns to battery acid inside. If the water/acid &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; low the battery won't hold a charge for long. That &lt;strong&gt;should not&lt;/strong&gt; be the case, since you had the battery tested twice, but testers sometimes only check the throughput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T22:18:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15932" CreationDate="2015-03-16T23:36:58.130" Score="13" ViewCount="5521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving home, heard a crunch, and then my entire steering wheel felt loose and turned a quarter turn to the left even though my car was still going straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about 10 feet from home so I finished the trip slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I looked under the front of the car and saw a broken part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCVtS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and we've been considering the idea of getting rid of the car at the next major repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what this part is or how much it might be to repair it. We're about a quarter mile away from our regular repair shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is this part?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would the estimated repair for it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be worth the tow to get it to the repair shop to fix?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you scrap the car over this considering it's age and the fact we're already thinking about it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run into this same issue, Hyundai had a recall on &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/recall/09V125000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001–2003 Vehicles Due to Corrosion on Front Lower Control Arms&lt;/a&gt;. Whether or not your car is covered under the recall depends on if the car's VIN falls into some unknown (at least to me) range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car wasn't covered, but if the same part breaks on your Elantra or Tiburon it's worth calling in to a dealer or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hyundaiusa.com/recall/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;going to Hyundai's repair site&lt;/a&gt; to check and see if yours is. Hopefully you'll have better luck than I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank's for the answers and comments. They helped a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9781" LastEditorUserId="9781" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T14:20:39.300" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T14:20:39.300" Title="Front left controller arm corroded and broke on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra" Tags="|wheels|hyundai|part-identification|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15931" CreationDate="2015-03-17T00:05:53.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have severe case of corrosion. The part is called the lower control arm. Its function is to maintain the tire in the correct position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not attempt to drive the vehicle. In the best case scenario you will cause more damage, the tire could hit the fender, the axle could separate or you can bend something else. In the worst case you kill someone when you lose control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as repair is concerned, that depends on the condition of the rest of the vehicle. Have a trusted mechanic evaluate the rest of the vehicle prior to fixing it. At a minimum you want to look closely at the arm on the other side. There are some vehicles that are prone to rust in particular areas. Once those particular areas are repaired the rest may be fine. In other cases it is the sign of things to come, more rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="2677" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T01:57:53.867" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T01:57:53.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T07:41:28.900" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year and a half ago, I bought a 2006 Mazda Miata Mx 5 with about 120k miles on it. Now its got about 136k miles. I've kept up with oil changes and filter changes and shes never given me any trouble. But im starting to get worried that she'll crap out on me soon because I hoon her pretty damn hard at times. Is there any advanced preventative maintenance I can do to keep her running longer and better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9784" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T10:06:46.087" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T10:06:46.087" Title="2006 Miata Maintenance" Tags="|maintenance|mazda|miata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15934" CreationDate="2015-03-17T07:48:48.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single most important thing you can do is to do regular oil and filter changes. I suggest doing it every 5k miles at most. Other than that, make sure your air intake and fuel injectors are good. If you have traction control, get someone to turn it down a bit to allow more wheelspin. This will ease the strain on your transmission. And if you notice something small, have it fixed before it turns into something big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T07:48:48.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15886" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:43:34.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it is everything, but it looks like I had some kind of short (vs break) in one of the ignition coils. My multimeter confirmed this, as did my sense of smell.. Burning plastic is never a good sign, especially under the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pulled that coil the other side started getting a regular spark. Now I'm off to find a set of aftermarket coils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T13:43:34.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15910" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:22:51.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had time to research your state, but you should be able to look up the requirements on your state DMV website. The state standards vary wildly so you will have to check your state specifically. In NC they have to be really bad to fail inspection, but again in your state it depends on what the standards are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without actually seeing what was moving it's hard to say. Could you post a video? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research on your model car it seems there is a problem with the  upper spring seat on the front struts. Based on your information it looks like this may apply to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bulletin No.&lt;/strong&gt;: 12-03-08-001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Date&lt;/strong&gt;: August 06, 2012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Subject&lt;/strong&gt;: Clunk or Thump Type Noise from Front Suspension&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Models&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2008-2009 Buick Allure (Canada)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2011 Buick Enclave, LaCrosse, Lucerne&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2011-2012 Buick Regal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2006-2011 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2009 Chevrolet Uplander&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2011 Chevrolet Aveo&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Impala, Malibu&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2009-2012 Chevrolet Traverse&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2010-2012 Chevrolet Camaro&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze, Volt&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2012 GMC Acadia&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2010-2012 GMC Terrain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2007-2010 Pontiac G5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008 Pontiac Grand Prix&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2009 Pontiac Montana SV6, Torrent&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2008-2010 Pontiac G3, G6, Vibe, Wave    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the&#xA;  front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise&#xA;  will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the&#xA;  upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving&#xA;  through a large rut or pothole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cause&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the&#xA;  upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up&#xA;  position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited&#xA;  onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Correction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight&#xA;  but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the&#xA;  affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before&#xA;  reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new&#xA;  dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed&#xA;  below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily&#xA;  slide up and down the strut shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZjU2C.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Apply a light coat of *3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396 or equivalent, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the&#xA;  inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xm0w1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M(TM) Duramix(TM) Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747 or equivalent.&#xA;  Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Apply a light coat of *3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396 or equivalent, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the&#xA;  upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOi9x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.&#xA;  *We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not&#xA;  endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for&#xA;  the products from this firm or for any such items which may be&#xA;  available from other sources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parts Information&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Part     Number     Description     Qty     Material Allowance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  04747 3M™ Duramix™ Super Fast Adhesive 1 $22.00&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  06396 3M™ Automotive Adhesion Promoter 2 $4.00   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345&#xA;  of the appropriate Parts Catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For part numbers and usage of the boot/shield, see Strut Boot/Shield&#xA;  in Group 07.371 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For part numbers and usage of the bumper, see Strut Bumper in Group&#xA;  07.395 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.askatech.com/askatechlive/forums/resourcehandler.ashx?a=5414&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source (PDF File)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T21:14:30.023" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:14:30.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15952" CreationDate="2015-03-17T10:29:02.803" Score="7" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes have problems starting my 2003 Ford Fiesta Diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key it'll either start normally or just start to kick over then die. If I try again, the same thing happens. My battery is good, replaced not long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; get it going by turning the key &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; till it's about to turn over and pull back - I do this twice and then turn the key fully. Sometimes that works - sometimes it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? My friends think it's the starter motor, but 8/10 times I'm fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9789" OwnerDisplayName="MBell33" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T10:50:24.423" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:50:24.423" Title="Intermittent starting trouble with new battery" Tags="|ford|battery|starting|diesel|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:56:36.223" Score="3" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to run my 2006 Honda Ridgeline's daytime running lights on 50% power, or close to it, on the accessory wire. When I turn my park lights, head lights, or brights on, I would like them to shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a basic relay with connections 30,85,86,87,87a. A wire diagram with the back of this relay would be amazing help. I'm not very knowledgeable about car wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Dan Gibson" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T20:34:32.447" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:49:16.590" Title="Hooking up daytime running lights on my vehicle using relays" Tags="|honda|electrical|lights|relay|ridgeline|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:24:45.987" Score="9" ViewCount="4013" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike was running rough and could not get a constant idle speed. I checked the air filter and it was pretty well shot (contamination, etc.). As I awaited delivery of the new air filter, as a test I ran the bike without the air filter and it had instantaneous throttle response and constant idle speed. Great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fitted the new air filter and the throttle response was good but the idle speed was totally erratic. It was OK at 3000 revs but anywhere below that it would run a bit and then drop down and stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plugs, etc. are all good, just this idle speed. Is the petrol feed on a vacuum and not getting proper mix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise and help, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9795" LastEditorUserId="6600" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T10:50:30.653" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T23:16:05.463" Title="Idling issues on 1995 Kawasaki ZZR600" Tags="|motorcycle|rough-idle|stall|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:45:40.370" Score="0" ViewCount="1354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 VW Golf Mk3 and it has been running badly. I first thought it was bad gas because of how it drove. Now it keeps driving like that but worse. It stutters when trying to pick up speed at stop lights it die. I finally got 3 codes off it 00515, 00553, 00513. These codes are directly related to the camshaft position sensor. Where is it located? I cannot find it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9798" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T04:48:18.063" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T04:48:18.063" Title="1995 VW golf Mk3. need to know where to find camshaft position (hall) sensor" Tags="|vw|golf|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15946" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:07:10.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your engine is the ABA engine, it's located in the distributor. You have to disassemble the distributor in order to get it out. For the money, they suggest it's a good time to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/EngineElectrical/45/2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;replace the entire distributor&lt;/a&gt;. (NOTE: I'm not promoting that site ... please do your research and get what is right for you. Please notice what is said on the line for the sensor, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:07:10.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:43:29.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hub centric rings.space between rim and hub not centered &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9802" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:43:29.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:00:12.907" Score="5" ViewCount="5742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will I damage power steering in a 2008 Camry XLE if I routinely turn the steering wheel to its limits, i.e. where it will not move further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9804" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:50:11.533" Title="Can I break power steering by turning too far" Tags="|power-steering|steering|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15940" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:12:40.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your starter motor is working 8 times out of 10 then you probably need to replace it. It very likely has developed a dead spot on the armature. If the armature is positioned so that the brushes land on a dead spot, it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushes are the electrical connection between the power source and the moving armature. The picture below shows how these brushes rub against the armature. All of the rubbing eventually causes enough wear that the connection becomes unreliable. (Picture from PontiacBonnevilleClub.com &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/everything-electrical-and-electronic/topic2427.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illustrated Starter Tech 101&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvvDE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes this can be temporarily overcome by tapping on the starter motor case so that the electrical connection is good enough to move the armature past the dead spot so it will start when you try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your 8 out of 10 times, the starter motor isn't on a dead spot, so it seems to work fine. You will eventually find out that tapping doesn't work and you will need a tow to the mechanic. It's better to fix it before that happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:12:40.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15951" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:50:11.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;cramping&quot; the steering and it is bad for the pump and for the steering rack. What you are doing is forcing the system to &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; and push the steering components further than what they are meant to go. This causes over pressure on the pump (you may hear a slight squeal sound of the belt as the pump momentarily stalls), and it creates a bind in the steering rack as it is being forced to go beyond its limits. This also can over heat the fluid causing it to deteriorate quicker, and you probably guessed it wears out the serpentine belt sooner. All-in-all, not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:50:11.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:43:02.347" Score="2" ViewCount="3945" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mazda 3, AT makes a slight knocking sound when I suddenly press the accelerator pedal, and the engine is at low RPM and the gear is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. 1500rpm, 4th gear, at 40 km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ATF Oil was changed already a few months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where could the sound be coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:40:57.743" Title="Single knock sound when stepping on gas" Tags="|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15957" CreationDate="2015-03-18T02:55:57.113" Score="3" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1994 TOYT Camry LE 2.2L Coupe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple days ago while I was driving, I stopped at a stop light and my engine block started shaking the whole care at low speeds and idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the spark plugs (one seemed especially bad) and the spark plug wires, and now when I turn it on, it barely comes on, gets to 500rpm, shakes, then loses power. If I give it gas, it will last a little longer at 500rpm, shaking a lot, and then dies when I let go of the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might I have messed up when replacing the spark plugs that it does this? I double checked that everything was well connected. And does it sound like an &quot;only spark plug&quot; problem, or is there something else at work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9805" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:25:18.430" Title="Engine Turns Over Gets to 500rpm, Shakes, Then Loses Power After Spark Plug &amp; Wire Change" Tags="|starting|sparkplugs|rough-idle|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15955" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:19:30.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to go back and look at the firing order of the spark plug wires you installed. If you get two out of place on a four cylinder engine, you now only have two good firing cylinders, and depending on which two got switched, one of them may even be firing the cylinder at opposition to the rest, not allowing the engine to get anywhere close to operating speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the firing order diagram to help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/slfIy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T02:25:18.430" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:25:18.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16016" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:26:12.423" Score="4" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title suggests, I'm trying to get concrete data on how inaccurate the stock wideband O2 sensor is in the Subaru Forester XT (MY06 to MY08). I am attempting to create a custom map for the car and was cautioned by a Subaru expert that the stock O2 sensor measures too rich under Wide Open Throttle, making it seem like the car is running richer that is actually the case, which in turn could be disastrous if I tried to lean out the mixture to what I think is still a safe number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with my previous question, I'm not after opinion (Lord knows I've had enough opinions from the NASIOC and RomRaider people). If someone can tell me e.g. &quot;The stock Subaru O2 sensor diverges from (for example) the Innovate LC1 by 0.8 units under WOT&quot;, that would be greatly appreciated. &lt;strong&gt;This is just an example. I have no idea what the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; difference between the LC1 and the stock unit is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again, I've gotten enough opinions on the matter. What I need is hard data from someone who has measured the difference (If any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T08:26:29.687" Title="How inaccurate is the stock wideband 02 sensor in the SG9 Subaru Forester XT at WOT" Tags="|subaru|tuning|wideband|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15962" CreationDate="2015-03-13T12:23:05.617" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies in advance, my electronics knowledge is very poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got myself a resistor that I believe is appropriate for the job I want to do on my vehicle. I'm replacing the factory sensor; there are two wires going to the sensor from the car's management system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I understand how it's working is that one of the wires is providing 5v to the sensor which reads a value and returns the voltage back to the ECU. I need the resistor because the curve is different to the original. The resistor required has already been calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter which wire I put the resistor on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the sensor: -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/400&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9821" OwnerDisplayName="chrisw69" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T16:06:03.620" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:06:03.620" Title="Positioning of a resistor" Tags="|sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15961" CreationDate="2015-03-13T12:57:52.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By our discussion we assume that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An external 14.2kOhm resistor is needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The resistor must be wired in series&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, it will not matter the wire, nor position that the resistor is applied. The resistance will add the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eInt4.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires (ideally) have no resistance, so POS is arbitrary, the resistance across A and B will be the same. The fact that R1 is attached to node A is arbitrary as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Nick Williams" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T12:57:52.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:10:54.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to give an update on this issue as it has been resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the noise actually got worse over this winter to where would happen for longer periods of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking my car into the dealer to have then do a total inspection and diagnose the noise. First off it ended up not being A/C related at all. They said the noise was due to my belts not being under enough tension. They basically said, &quot;the belts are new and whoever put them on didn't tension them down at all. That is where the noise came from.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i suspect happened was they were tensioned down a bit and over time they slow became untensioned. Either way this is now solved.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:10:54.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15860" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:31:13.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems fairly easy, and cheap to add a center stand to the bike once you buy it. It may even be an accessory available at the dealer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lypw0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tradeindia.com/fp706366/Center-Stand-For-Hero-Honda-Splendor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Found here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:31:13.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15967" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:56:18.330" Score="2" ViewCount="1581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been driving this car for some time now (Ford Focus ZX4 2005). I have been seeing 25 - 27 MPG every time I fill up. I drive a little (10 min) in city and then the rest of my destination on the highway (20 min). I have a OBDII reader and Torque Pro and I gathered Bank 1 Sensor 1 and 2 as well as Short and Long Term Fuel Trim. NOT sure if the program is under-sampling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEcRJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Section of the read from my car showing WOT segment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So looking from the graph above... can you guys make assumptions on weather or not my O2 sensor are functioning or if you can see something else let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been watching lots of videos on O2 sensors as well fuel trim banks stuff. BUT I am no position to make guesses on my car. BUT if there is something wrong and can improve my MPG I will be happy :D. If not, I will end my search and live with it. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9778" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:17:39.997" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T02:00:01.733" Title="Low MPG for my Ford Focus 2005" Tags="|ford|focus|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15965" CreationDate="2015-03-18T23:34:17.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2005_Ford_Focus.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fueleconomy.gov&lt;/a&gt; your are getting a little better than what's expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jDzTl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the less accurate old rating system to the new, it's still not as high as you were expecting, but it was higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9huX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySide.jsp?column=1&amp;amp;id=20702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Compare Old and New MPG Estimates&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual transmission with the 2.0 gets the best mileage that year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4gDI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look up mpg on some sites it just give you the highest mpg listed for the vehicle without taking into account the engine, transmission, or other options that effect fuel mileage. That may be why you were expecting high mpg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address you other question, the O2 sensor appear to be operating normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get better gas mileage, there are plenty of things you can do, Here are a few that come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't carry anything in the car you don't need. More weight means less MPG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerate slowly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let off the accelerator sooner when you are coming to a stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you tire pressures are not low. Some people even run them 2 - 5 psi higher than recommended to improve mileage. (Side note never go over the max pressure listed on the tire, also may affect tire wear, handling, and traction) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T03:09:12.070" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T03:09:12.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T00:09:10.930" Score="2" ViewCount="1678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5 V6 and today my radiator was leaking from the bottom. I drove it to the mechanic and at about 4.5 miles from the mechanic the car temperature gauge was all the way to the top at H. Is it possible that I could have damaged the head gasket or warped something for driving it like that for 4.5 miles ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9815" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T22:06:00.943" Title="Bad Radiator Messed up Head Gasket" Tags="|nissan|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T00:12:28.357" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 07 charger, the water tank has recently been bubbling I'm not sure why because of course it has water and the temperature meter doesn't go up it just stays a little less then half of the cool side. So I'm not really sure it this is normal or if something is wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9816" LastEditorUserId="9816" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T03:18:14.760" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:34:59.140" Title="water in pump bubbling" Tags="|water-pump|charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15971" CreationDate="2015-03-19T00:19:25.530" Score="-1" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my car a while now has been making a popping noise and it's gotten worse. Everytime I step on the brake something from the bottom of my car pops most of the time when I turn the steering wheel it pops. Does anybody know what it might be :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9816" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T01:31:18.553" Title="popping noise on 07 charger" Tags="|brakes|charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15970" CreationDate="2015-03-19T01:31:18.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The popping could be from a ball joint or a tierod end. Both of these items are a serious safety concern. If either fails completely you will loose control of the car. Any noise or looseness in the front of the car should be investigated immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T01:31:18.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15968" CreationDate="2015-03-19T01:49:33.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gauge went all the way to the &quot;H&quot; you have no idea how hot the motor actually got because the gauge was at it maximum. If you had a leak the cooling system was low on coolant. the more coolant lost the hotter the engine ran. There is a good chance some damage was done from the motor overheating. There are tests your mechanic can do to confirm a bad head gasket. The only way to confirm if the heads are warped is to remove the heads and measure them. There will be some labor charges just to determine the extent of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T01:49:33.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T03:53:54.823" Score="0" ViewCount="3969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to set my back view camera in my Honda 2001. I could not figure out how to make electric configuration - I just want to avoid using tail light and my backup camera can keep running while I am driving (or I can put a switch). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here what I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0013DZ9C2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pyle PLCM10 Rear View Backup Parking Reverse Camera&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYoLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to manual the camera in left, black to cable has two input one for power and another to monitor. The (red and black) cable in the middle goes to power. The yellow tip black cable ( in the right) is extension that will take from back of the car to front where monitor will be housed. Yellow cable attached to it ground (I do not know where to attach it ?).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007SLDF7O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7&quot; TFT LCD Color 2 Monitor &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJ8VE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have minimum knowledge on wiring and car mechanical stuff. So I just want to power my monitor and camera. For monitor I bought: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cigarette lighter plug (see the above photo assembled with monitor power input)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not know how can I power both monitor and camera. I also want to know if any other things to perform (such as earthing) to make the system perfect. Please suggest step wise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30Tae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still have following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) What does earthing means ? How can I perform it appropriately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) How can I connect two wires at the cigarette lighter source ? Any precautions ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9818" LastEditorUserId="9818" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T19:49:19.483" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T18:47:55.347" Title="connecting backup camera in my honda 2001" Tags="|honda|electrical|car|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15943" CreationDate="2015-03-19T05:11:40.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Possible Answers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were hoping for a little feedback regarding this issue prior to attempting an answer.  A few things come to mind regarding the problem description and we'll run through a few of them for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Regarding Stalling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Filter&lt;/strong&gt; - Your fuel filter may be impeded and require replacement.  Since you have not indicated this happens at higher RPM's and only at high idle this is unlikely.  Replacement is cheap and considered a maintenance item.  It may be in your best interest to replace the filter regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Petcock&lt;/strong&gt; - You queried about the vacuum line.  If the vacuum line is not attached to the petcock, the vacuum cannot open the diaphragm driven valve within the petcock and you would not get any fuel.  If the diaphragm is malfunctioning, entirely possible, you may be getting a fuel starvation issue but considering the lack of knowledge regarding high RPM operation it's difficult to determine if this may or may not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Leak&lt;/strong&gt; - Air leaks and lean conditions can lead to some of the symptoms you describe.  An air leak would be a leak between the carbs and the head.  The area of vacuum from the carb butterfly on into the head.  If the idle is high after you rev the engine and then it suddenly falls off and dies is the primary symptom.  You can get a contact or brake cleaner and squirt it around suspect areas, have a fire extinguisher handy and don't squirt vast quantities.  Just little bursts onto manifold joints etc.  Smell the exhaust while you do this.  This will be your breadcrumb.  The exhaust will smell different and very strong if you have an air leak and the carburetor cleaner is getting sucked into the hole and going through the combustion process.  Additionally, you should see the idle stabilize a bit as the carburetor cleaner fluid blocks the unmetered air leak.  You can also use soapy water as a medium to troubleshoot this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Regarding Rough Idle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valves&lt;/strong&gt; - The 1995 ZZR600 has a shim and bucket valve train.  There are no rocker arms and the cam lobe rides directly on a bucket.  Beneath bucket is a shim for changing valve clearance followed by the valve stem, keepers and springs, etc.  A shim and bucket setup will lead to zero clearance situations where the valve can actually hang open and there is a tiny gap between the valve seat and valve face in the head.  When this condition arises the vehicle is hard starting, poor idling and general runs like a bag of hammers.  One valve hanging open can lead to a very poor running/idling condition that improves with higher RPM.  Running a compression test can give you breadcrumbs and hints but a leak down test will truly determine if this condition is occurring.  It's a very common issue and is considered general maintenance to adjust your valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carburetor Synchronization&lt;/strong&gt; - When you added in the new air filter you increase the vacuum in the venturi of all the carburetors.  This additional vacuum will accentuate any issues that are present from valve adjustment, air leaks between the carbs and head and out of synch carburetors.  Out of synch carbs will lead to rough idle conditions.  Carburetor synchronization is considered a normal maintenance task and requires mercury sticks (old school dangerous) or dial vacuum gauges.  Adjustment is in between the carbs on the butterfly shaft running through the set of four carbs.  If the synchronization is terribly out you will see the symptoms you have described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Out of tune&lt;/strong&gt; - If your air filter was so clogged that the vehicle ran much better once it was removed there is a high chance that a prior owner or low quality mechanic adjusted the air screws to a lean condition because of the clogged air filter.  The clogged air filter creates a rich condition and if extreme could potentially foul the plugs.  Someone may have leaned out the idle mixture to compensate and once the air filter is replaced....now the bike runs lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thoughts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would presume that you have a combination of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lean condition, as described above.  The air screws affect idle and just off idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Out of synch carbs - you can eyeball and listen to adjust the synchronization.  Keep reducing the idle as you change the balance between carburetors.  When you are getting closer to synch the idle will increase.  When that happens you are on the right track.  Reduce the idle and keep playing with them.  Some auto stores will 'loan' vacuum gauges that you can use for this, you pay a deposit and get it back upon tool return.  This is the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Gap - Ensuring you don't have a gap between the valve face and valve seat will prevent gasses escaping your combustion chamber during compression as well as your power stroke.  The bike will start, idle and run better with significant performance increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional links that can be beneficial to your troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3676/motorcycle-four-body-carburetor-synchronization-balancing/24312#24312&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Four Body Carburetor Synchronization Balancing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12424/why-does-the-bike-idle-lower-after-balancing-carburetors/23690#23690&quot;&gt;Why does the bike idle lower after balancing carburetors?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:54:45.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15976" CreationDate="2015-03-19T05:31:17.170" Score="5" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at an older car recently and noticed its side reflector was missing.  Then I realized, cars dont have side marker reflectors anymore.  What happened to them?  I assume there was a U.S. law requiring them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastEditorUserId="7100" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T05:39:19.750" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T07:45:10.727" Title="What happened to side marker reflectors?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15975" CreationDate="2015-03-19T05:58:19.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;CFR 49 states that a reflective area is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers have blended the turn signals into dual purpose units that are reflectors as well as signal lamps.  The lenses have reflective properties built into them.  If you shine a light on the side of a vehicle you will see these properties when the car running lights are turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed this myself a few years ago and researched it.  I had noticed the same thing and became curious.  I started with DOT website and wound up in the CFR's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to CFR 49&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CFR = Code of Federal Regulations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T07:45:10.727" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T07:45:10.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T07:20:59.927" Score="7" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this youtube video, a Toyota FJ cruiser in Saudi Arabia drives up on two wheels while 5 people get out and remove the wheels on that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQm5BnhTBEQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQm5BnhTBEQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This turns out to be somewhat of a thing-to-do in arab nations (they call it &lt;em&gt;hagwalah&lt;/em&gt;), and called 'high-skiing' stateside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ski_(driving_stunt)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: Ski (Driving Stunt)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/how-to-drive-a-car-on-two-wheels-feature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to drive a car on two wheels (Car and Driver)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's where it gets confusing: based on everything I understand about differentials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open differentials (which this FJ comes with in most trims) allow the torque to follow the path of least resistance, which should then just spin up the airborne tires with the engine's power until the vehicle loses speed (coasting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locked differentials (which is a rear-only option on FJs) would spin both right and left wheels at the same speed, the airborne wheel would be forced to spin under engine power (unless in neutral, which would cause the vehicle to lose speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited-slip differentials would make the airborne wheel behave like a locker up to a torque value that is higher than the free spinnable wheel in the air could provide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torsen differentials, used in some sports cars, use planetary gears to send torque to the harder-to-drive wheel, but require some resistance ('torque multiplying differentials, anything * 0 = 0) to operate so again would just spin the airborne wheel freely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think that would do this would be something like a parking brake on the rear wheels when in 2WD mode, but it would have to be disconnected or rendered inoperable on the side with the wheel on the ground, and I would also expect the (rear) wheel to come to an abrupt stop, which it does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it possible that this driver is maintaining speed for ~4 minutes while up on two wheels in an FJ cruiser, that is likely unmodified? There are other videos that show drivers doing this and switching sides, but for lesser time so it would be &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; that they are coasting while their vehicles are up in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spend a little time watching more similar videos and you will realize that all these cars are stock. Theyre either rentals or stolen from hard working average citizens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: 16 years living in Saudi Arabia&#xA;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/videos/comments/18lovz/dude_changes_a_tire_while_driving_a_car_on_two/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.reddit.com/r/videos/comments/18lovz/dude_changes_a_tire_while_driving_a_car_on_two/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T16:01:18.970" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T16:01:18.970" Title="Why do open differentials drive the wheels on the ground when a vehicle drives on two?" Tags="|drivetrain|4wd|driving|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15977" CreationDate="2015-03-19T09:15:59.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could work in a car with an open differential and an active traction control system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the system detects a wheel spin, it actively brakes (and locks out) the particular wheel, as a consequence the torque is directed by the differential to the wheel with traction (least resistance, as you noted). I do not know the details of the implementation in this particular vehicle, but since you're certain that the vehicle is un-modified, I would bet that this is what is happening.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After watching the video, I noticed that the airborne rear wheel does come to an immediate stop. The front wheel however coasts to a slow stop. I would speculate from this that the vehicle is in the rear wheel drive only configuration with TRACTION CONTROL enabled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T10:14:31.123" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T10:14:31.123" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T09:59:04.257" Score="4" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Primera SVE (2002 model). Mileage is about 200000KM. Had its timing chain replaced at the end of 2013 because it was &quot;stretched&quot;. Since then, I haven't had any problems (up until now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday evening, I noticed that the car was struggling to pick up speed, as if the engine wasn't getting enough power. There is a small but noticeable whirring noise coming from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLOkDy8FQw0&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link&lt;/a&gt; to a Youtube video that I recorded a few minutes ago. Maybe I'm just hearing things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: This morning, it seemed as though the engine took longer than usual to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: At higher speeds, the car tends to shake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9822" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T05:22:02.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:22:02.923" Title="Power loss in Nissan Primera SVE. Possible causes?" Tags="|nissan|noise|performance|primera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15881" CreationDate="2015-03-19T10:57:50.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after LOTS of research, it turns out that my Subaru Forester XT is running at 10.5 AFR at WOT because Subaru's don't like our 95RON fuel very much and it's a safety precaution to add an additional margin for error to prevent knocking if I ever tried filling up at a dodgy fuel pump in rural Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T10:57:50.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15969" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:34:59.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the amount of bubbles which are occurring. If there is a large amount with steam involved, I'd be worries about it. If it's just a small amount of bubbles and nothing adverse happening, I think I'd be less likely to be worried about it. This could be just a normal thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it could be that the radiator cap is becoming weak and allowing more coolant to be pushed into the overflow. If you've never had to change the radiator cap, this might be a good time to do this as a maintenance item.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:34:59.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15984" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:35:48.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a battery charger&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inyt2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/inyt2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:50:55.433" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:50:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15985" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:35:48.670" Score="0" Body="Device used to recharge a drained or dead battery." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T09:38:15.547" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T09:38:15.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15986" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15987" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" Score="0" Body="Vehicle model which is made by Dodge/Chrysler." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:37:01.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T13:14:21.530" Score="4" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 weeks ago I bought a car from a private dealer. When I tested it out, the car was completely fine. Not to long ago after, I noticed that my back tail lights were on and figured out it was the braker bolt. I changed it and then later that day I noticed my car was acting up by my brake pedal being hard when I changed gears to go to a higher one, the car would slow down. I turned off the car and smelled the brakes and saw a light smoke. When I got to my house and left it there for a few hours, it was fine. I took it to the mechanic and he told me that when the brakes get hot they start to press down and lock on. He eventually told me to change the calipers and so we did (same). Then he said it was the brake hose, we changed it (same problem). He then changed the master cylinder (same problem). I'm so frustrated. Do you have any idea what it could be?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2005 honda civic Lx &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T14:32:43.647" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:09:19.920" Title="Brakes smell, car pedal hard, light smoke, slows down during gear shift" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:16:00.120" Score="1" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 model Yamaha FZ. Lately, I have observed that the first week after a service, the motorbike is super smooth with good pickup. But after that it loses its smoothness and becomes dull.... You dont feel like the bike is smooth, it lags power... This happens after every service - 1 week smooth ride, then it deteriorates... &#xA;This is a new phenomenon that has started happening lately, like 1 year...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guesses why this might happen? and how can it be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9825" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T16:34:47.857" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:34:47.857" Title="Yamaha FZ 16 loses smoothness too soon" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-06-08T17:52:24.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15999" CreationDate="2015-03-19T18:44:58.727" Score="5" ViewCount="16891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to add a cordless impact wrench to my toolset do some exhaust work (loosen some really tight bolts, basically). I also plant to use it for CV joint-related work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem to be kind of pricey, so I can only get either a 1/2&quot; or 3/8&quot; drive right now. Which is more versatile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get the 1/2&quot; one, are there any adapters like in regular hand ratchets to downgrade from 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot;? Or are these impact guns fixed and you must have both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9826" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T21:28:38.843" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T11:16:16.080" Title="Can 1/2 drive impact wrenches be adapted to use 3/8 sockets?" Tags="|tools|stuck-bolt|fastener|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:46:47.483" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would lIke to run my camper fully on solar and I'm unsure what I would need to do it right. It would be for heavy use, lights, appliances, tv, ect... I have a 2014 camper that has a 50 amp plug on it. Does anyone feel like walking me through this? Thanx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Atlas4200" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T19:09:38.193" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:28:20.507" Title="Running my camper on solar" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15993" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:05:48.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming the 50 amp plug is 220VAC. You probably wont be able to generate that much electricity with solar, as you would need A LOT of panels to get that amount of energy. However you could supply supplenental energy, or recharge any 12v battery packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this you would need solar panels, and an inverter (charging controller). You can buy solar panel kits for your RV. I would suggest that you do this, because mixing and matching solar panel parts can be a daunting task, and is not easy to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling &quot;solar panel kit&quot; should get you some products that will work to fill your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9930" OwnerDisplayName="Reid" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:05:48.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15993" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:15:18.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll need is BIG trailer to hold the solar cells. So let's try for a first cut at the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really must produce 120 volts at 50 amps, that's 6000 watts. The question is, how long do you need this load each day, or its equivalent? After all, you won't be going full out all the time. Let's say that your average load is 1000 watts for 12 hours per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 1000 watts times 12 hours is 12 kwh. Most of this energy is going to come from your batteries which the solar cells charge, since obviously the sun goes down each day. As a rough rule of thumb, figure on 50% efficiency in going from cells to load. The battery does not store all the energy it receives, and you need to drive an inverter to go from battery DC to appliance AC. So the solar cells will need to produce about 24 kWh per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sun is not very bright at the horizon, so you can figure on (at most) about 6 hours per day of useful output from the solar array, and to get this you'll need a tracking array to keep the cells perpendicular to the sun. So your 24 kWh has to be produced in 6 hours, for a load of 4 kW. (4 kW x 6 hours is 24 kW). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In clear air, assume sunlight is about 1 kw per square meter, but solar cells are only (at best) about 20% efficient, so your array needs to intercept 20 kW of sunlight (4 kW / 0.2), and this will take about 20 square meters, or about 200 square feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, you'll need a big trailer. Plus, of course, your mobile home cannot be moving during peak charging time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, the above is based on the sun being available every day. So how much bad weather can you tolerate? If you're willing to tolerate 2 days of rain, you need 3 times as much solar capacity, or 600 square feet of cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the batteries are going to be big and heavy (another reason for a big trailer), but that's another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't afford the very best cells, you'll need more of them, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WhatRoughBeast" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:15:18.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15993" CreationDate="2015-03-19T07:18:09.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't really even start until you know how much power you will use.  Having a 50 amp plug means that you have the potential to use a lot of power, but that doesn't mean that you will use that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the first answer suggests the number of panels required is more than I have seen in many whole home systems!  Maybe you need that much maybe not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a 'kill-a-watt' meter or something similar which measures the amount of energy you use that would be the first step  if not, then look at all of your devices and appliances and find out how much power they consume (it will say on them) then consider how long you would use each appliance every day and then you have a rough estimate of power needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can begin to consider what you need in terms of solar panels, which isn't too hard.  When solar experts assess a place for solar requirements, they usually recommend to have enough battery for 3 days use.  This is for those winter months when the sun isn't seen for days, or for rain in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know how much power you need in watts, you can source solar panels since they are rated in watts.  In addition you will need a charge controller for the batteries and an inverter to convert the battery power to AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But solar installation companies always start with how much power to you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Filek" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T07:18:09.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T19:25:57.573" Score="4" ViewCount="2077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a minor accident a little over a year ago, the damage from which I did not immediately repair so a paint scratch has corroded over time.  Finally, I'm getting the time to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Zcf5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I sand the area?  I own a lot of tools, some of which are a 4.5&quot; grinder and an orbital sander.  Should I use one of them or something else?  In case of the grinder, what grit flap disc should I use? Same applies in case the orbital sander should be used, what grit?  Someone also mentioned I use a paint stripper similar to this:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JE1Gf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once sanded, should I apply a thin layer of body filler or should I just prime and paint over it?  Is body filler used only in case of concave dents?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This question does not pertain to the picture attached.  I have a variety of other small concave dings around the truck that have no rust.  Should I just fill them with body filler over the existing paint and then prime and paint it or does the area need to have paint removed prior to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, any general advice in regard to making this and similar body repairs would be appreciated as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T07:17:30.693" Title="Minor body rust sanding and repair" Tags="|paint|rust|body-work|body-filler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T19:36:19.017" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone told me once that new brake pads/discs last much less if they are installed on old rotors, i.e. that an old rotor will wear a new brake refill much faster than a brand new one because of the settled residue on it.  An alternative is to clean the residue by some sort of grinding/polishing but I heard that requires a lathe, which I don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to replace rotors every time brake pads/discs are replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supposed to be a make/model agnostic question but my truck is a 2007 4WD V6 Tacoma, if that matters.  The front brakes are pads, the rear are discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T19:36:19.017" Title="Should rotors be replaced every time brake pads/discs are?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-19T20:44:50.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:00:21.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1/2&quot;-drive can withstand more torque than its 3/8&quot; sibling (due to its larger moment of area). Since the question clearly states that this is needed to undo really tight or stuck bolts, the 1/2&quot;-drive impact wrench makes more sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for recommendations, there will always be someone recommending Brand A over Brand B and vice versa. That said, I'm looking to pick up something like the one in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yR32-z5s7aU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; if the price is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T09:52:16.227" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T09:52:16.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:36:55.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only ever had/used 1/2&quot; drive air impact guns. The reason is simple: I can produce as much/more torque with a 1/2&quot; breaker bar than a 3/8&quot; impact drive can produce. If I need to use an impact wrench (which usually works &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; well on rusty bolts), I'll grab the 1/2&quot; drive and have at it. For me, there usually is no reason for a 3/8&quot; impact drive, so why have/use one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for electric impact drives, I understand the newer battery operated ones are very nice to have. I believe most of these are 3/8&quot; drive. For this reason alone, I may have change of heart. Having to not haul a hose around plus the ability to remotely carry it to where I need it would be a great bonus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:36:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:43:48.810" Score="3" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to fully disable keyless entry (and the alarm too) and use only keys. Is it sufficient to unplug all the cables from ETAC MODULE (ELANTRA ETAC MODULE 95400-2D510) behind the dashboard? And would it affect any other functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9829" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:43:48.810" Title="2004 Hyundai Elantra disable keyless entry" Tags="|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15992" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:45:44.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/2&quot; drive is the way to go, the only advantage to the 3/8&quot; is it's going to be smaller and lighter. With the major disadvantage of much less torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are there any adapters like in regular hand ratchets to downgrade from 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot; adapters are readily available on all the tool trucks, and most other places that sell tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a few examples, not only are the readily available they make them for impact wrenches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://store.snapon.com/Square-Drive-Adaptors-chrome-Adaptor-3-8-Internal-drive-x-1-2-External-drive-1-5-16--P631531.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snap on Adaptor, 3/8&quot; Internal drive x 1/2&quot; External drive, 1 5/16&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bluetoad.com/publication/?i=106395#%7B%22issue_id%22:106395,%22page%22:84%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bottom right of this page in the Snap on Catolog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again this one is made to be used with an impact wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones pictured below are NOT for impact wrenches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgGb7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-4-pc-adapter-set/p-00904235000P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftsman  4 pc. Adapter Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this one is for use with impact wrenches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyt9Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1-2-in-to-3-8-in-impact-socket/p-00919494000P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftsman  1/2 in. to 3/8 in. Impact Socket Adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's is &lt;strong&gt;important&lt;/strong&gt; that you use impact sockets as &lt;strong&gt;non-impact sockets can shatter when used on an impact wrench&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T11:16:16.080" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T11:16:16.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15968" CreationDate="2015-03-19T22:06:00.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, overheating the engine can damage head gaskets and warp or crack the head(s) (4 cylinders have one head). On these types of engines, the heads mounts to the top of the engine and are (typically) made of aluminum. The engine, on the other hand, is made of cast iron and is very thick and heavy. So, when the engine gets too hot it can withstand the overheating and resists warping and cracking, while the head tends to warp/crack under too much heat. Fixing this can be a $1,500+ job at a shop and you're probably looking at $600-$700 job on your own after you pay to have a shop plane the head (and check for cracks) and buy the gaskets and head bolts. But it's not a terrible job and can be done on weekend if you're inclined to do so. If the head isn't warped or cracked but maybe you just blew a head gasket, then you can probably get away with fixing it for a couple hundred at a shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop can sometimes test if the heads/gaskets are warped or cracked by putting pressure on the coolant system without the engine running. Other shops may want to charge you $1,000 just to tear into it to see if it's the head/gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk you run by just adding coolant and watching for leaks are the obvious a) you risk that there is a head and or gasket leak and you may be left stranded, b) if there is a leak and water gets in the combustion chamber then you risk (what's called) throwing a rod and then you'll be looking for a used engine and at least $3,000 - $4,000, or c) if some coolant gets into the oil it can rust bearings and shorten the life of your car. I would guess that there's probably 50 more scenarios that could happen, but these ones would be bad and are not atypical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're feeling lucky (or poor?) and if it were me I would probably just have the shop fix the radiator and keep an eye on the temp and coolant level. They're not going to give you the car back if it's leaking coolant all over the place due to a cracked gasket or head anyway ..so they'll have a decent idea if it is once they fill it up with coolant and run the engine. Also, keep your nose out for the smell of coolant which smells almost exactly like maple syrup. If you see yellow under your car or smell maple syrup, then get it to someone you trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9831" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T22:06:00.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15803" CreationDate="2015-03-19T22:06:35.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a problem with the robotic-gear after all. Apparently, the gear robot wasn't alway putting the car into gear when starting, which caused the car not to start. Nothing left to do but send it to the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9686" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T22:06:35.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17259" CreationDate="2015-03-19T23:18:28.900" Score="7" ViewCount="29999" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Passat B5 TDI with 6-speed gearbox is making a buzzing/whining(?) noise while driving and it appears as if it comes from under the gear shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dependent on road speed (more audible between 60 kph and 120 kph)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not dependent on engine speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also audible when gear is in neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not dependent on clutch being pressed or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating, the noise is there but less audible (probably because the noise of the engine masks it). It is much more audible in neutral or in 4/5/6th gear while decelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the car is in 4/5/6th gear if I gently press the gear knob up (in 5th) or down (in 4/6th), the noise gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hear the noise in this audio file:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/qXX8x1&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/qXX8x1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone help me diagnosing where the noise is coming from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ruling out clutch and gearbox because happens in neutral and is not dependent on engine speed. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the differential? Could it be the U-Joint? Drive shafts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9828" LastEditorUserId="9828" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T00:02:50.913" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:28:11.957" Title="Buzzing noise or whining noise from center of car while driving, not related to engine speed" Tags="|vw|noise|gears|passat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:17:30.793" Score="5" ViewCount="63172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2005 Nissan Sentra. The car tends to leak oil, so I check it about twice a month. I checked today and the oil was probably an inch above the full line, but I'm not sure why. I got the oil changed in January, and the oil has been fine so far, until now. I haven't added any oil since January and I haven't been driving it very much, maybe five or ten miles a couple of times a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what's happening, and I'm not going to just try and drain it because, based on what I read about this, I suspect there's water in the oil. I just want to get it changed, but the place I regularly get it changed at is about 15 miles away. Will my car be okay to drive that far? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9833" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T18:30:11.997" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T06:37:14.727" Title="How far can I drive with too much oil?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2015-03-20T01:17:43.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly plugs vary in their quality and ability to stay put.  However, I am certain there are differences in the socket diameters as fitted to different makes of vehicles.  My Honda is OK but my Fiat Ducato based campervan will not keep plugs in.  The answer is a cylindrical metal sleeve adaptor.  I have got one of these which came with some device I bought.  Maybe an early Tomtom.  Sadly I cannot find a supplier of these, despite it being an obviously common problem.  Does anyone know of such a supplier? The Fiat socket does not seem to have any kind of internal recess to help retain the plug.  I have tried a plug to socket adaptor and that worked for a while...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9836" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T01:17:43.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16021" CreationDate="2015-03-20T06:07:14.747" Score="3" ViewCount="2090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying wider tires for my car. How do I find out the maximum width that would fit? Im currently running 205/50R16, if that indicates anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:32:22.800" Title="Buying wider wheels" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15997" CreationDate="2015-03-20T06:44:53.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The orbital sander would work fine. Use paint stripper only on metal body parts because it would dissolve plastic parts. Strip any area of paint that you intend to work on. Body filler won't hold well on a smooth paint surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with about 180 grit to strip the paint. Sand a reasonable area around the ding as well, 2 or 3 inches is fine. Make sure you dont have any harsh transitions from unsaded to sanded. Blend the sanded area so that it fades away as you move away from the area you intend to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use body filler to fill any concave dents. I recommend using the bondo brand. It goes on very smooth and is easy to apply. After you apply the body filler start sanding with increasingly finer grit, all the way up to at least 400. Apply a thin layer of glazing and spot puttly. Again, I recommend bondo. This fills any small imperfections, such as pinholes. Then do one final light sanding pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Body filler only has to be used for concave dents. If youre just fixing a scratch, sand it the same, and apply glazing and spot putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then all thats left is prime and paint. When I was doing similar repairs on my front bumper, all I did was prep the surface in the manner I described above. I took my car to an actual paint shop to get the paint done. They can makes sure the colors match and that it's properly applied so your body doesnt rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T06:44:53.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15997" CreationDate="2015-03-20T07:17:30.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bodywork can be really fun or it can make you cry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some general rules to adhere to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 1 - Don't use anything over 400 grit on the plastic bodywork like the front bumper.  It will scar it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 2 - Put the power tools away when you are dealing with the flexible plastic, unless it's a sander (not a grinder) with 400 grit or finer SP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 3 - Don't put filler/putty on plastic.  It's flexible and will eventually break free, bubble and look bad as it peels away from the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 4 - 400 grit or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will argue with my rules, so be it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand away the badness on the bumper (based upon the image) and get it to the plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a paint mask.  Protect yourself. The cartridge kind are the best.  3M makes good ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use wet/dry sandpaper.  The black kind.  When your sanding, use water and the sandpaper.  Water will carry away the waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a coat of primer.  If you have scarring in the plastic you can use little tiny bits of putty but I've had putty fail me on plastic too many times.  If you can prime/sand  prime/sand  prime/sand to fill, I've had much better results.  I've learned though failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....and then do another coat of primer.  Get it to be the way you like it.  Sanded nice, no finger oil, no contaminates.  Nice and clean.  Use mineral spirits or acetone to wipe it down.   (open air, fans, etc...while doing this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the brand of paint you use you will hand sand the primer to either a 400 to 600 grit.  The manufacturer of the paint should have a white paper detailing their requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've primered your very clean surface that is no more course than 400 grit you can lay your paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layer paint is easier if you are going to follow the paint up with a clear coat.  The clear coat allows you to overspray and compensate for your failures.  Part of painting well is hiding your mistakes.  Clear coat allows you to fail during the paint phase and compensate for all of the mistakes you make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you clear coat everything becomes shiny.  If you clear coat a moderate amount, 3 to 4 sprays, you get to sand it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First using 600 then moving on to 1000 grit.  You don't have to worry about the paint if you have excellent priming and sanding.  Patience and cleanliness yield the best results.   After paint, you get to sand the clear coat to 1000 grit and rub out anything you don't like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it clean, keep it flat.  I can elaborate on any points.  Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T07:17:30.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T07:47:24.923" Score="1" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a flat tire on my front right and I definitely need an alignment because they were wearing on the inside of both front tires. I moved my rear tires to the front and just replaced and balanced the two in the back. Ever since my front ride tire wobbles (at any speed) if it hits any groove or anything. I wanted to hold off the alignment for a little longer because I'm super broke now, but also scared it might be something worse or more expensive. Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T11:04:49.127" Title="my tire is wobbling and I need to know possibilities!" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15960" CreationDate="2015-03-20T07:50:29.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I could provide you with facts, I map to reality and facts are the basis of it.  Alas, I cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe you will have valid information unless you sample the stock 02 sensor and map output without change other than a cue of the stock 02 sensors rolling through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to determine truth regarding the matter is to buy a bunch of the sensors and measure the output of the vehicle, CO2, etc.....for each sensor.  Only then can you truly determine max/mins and either corroborate or dispute claims regarding the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I had more but what I've proposed is founded on the scientific method.  Kindof.  You just need a wider sample of data to determine 'truth'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T08:26:29.687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T08:26:29.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16018" CreationDate="2015-03-20T09:01:46.500" Score="3" ViewCount="2313" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should I reinflate my tire. My bike has tubeless back tire and tubed front tire. Currently I am reinflating once in a week with 35psi(back) and 25 psi(front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I need to reinflate my front tire everytime when I reinflate back tire ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9841" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T11:01:12.957" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:32:15.870" Title="How often can I reinflate my tire" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-03-20T09:51:09.797" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no air pressure relationship between the front and rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possibility&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may sound coincidence but it appears you have two tires that are leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To troubleshoot the issue, fill the tires to 40+ psi.  Have a bucket with soapy water and a rag or sponge handy and cover the surface area of the tires with the soapy water.  You will see bubbles in the areas where there are leaks and you can then patch/plug as necessary.  Be sure to check the shrader valve for bubbles where it emerges from the rim and for good measure take the valve cap off to see if there is actual leaking from the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T09:25:14.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15891" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:11:56.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check the speaker is to hook it up to another source. I would bet a capacitor blew in the head unit, but that is dependent upon where you heard the pop come from. I'll still give you 10 to 1 that the head unit is actually fried, unless you have an amp (which you may or may not know about). A lot of Fords I've seen come with amps. The Expedition being a relatively high end vehicle should have one installed from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My model does have an amp somewhere, since I did have to connect the amp wire to the head unit when I installed an aftermarket head unit a few months ago. Assuming I can locate the amp, how do I test it? Also, I'm pretty sure I heard the pop coming from behind me, so I don't think it was the head unit. Would the head unit still appear to be functioning normally on the LCD if it had fried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the head unit's internal amp was fried, then yes, but since you said there's a factory amp, I'd go with it as the culprit. You can probably do a search online for where it is located in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:11:56.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16011" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:32:22.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several considerations when going to wider than stock tires for a vehicle. The first consideration is, &lt;em&gt;how much tire can my rim handle?&lt;/em&gt; In most cases, a rim can handle another ~20mm of tire width over the stock width. Once you go past this width, the tire will start bulging, will roll more in the corners, and aesthetically look terrible. All of this is contingent upon whether they will even physically be able to fit on the rims in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go past this rule of thumb, you'll need to get wider wheels to support the tire. Doing some reverse engineering with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this online calculator&lt;/a&gt;, your current wheel width is probably around 7&quot; wide. The calculator states your tire width ranges are as follows for a 7&quot; x 16&quot; rim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum tire width: 195mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideal tire width: 205-215mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum tire width: 225mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each 10mm of tire width above that will require another 1/2&quot; of rim width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to get new rims to support even wider tires, you'll need to take into account the offset of the wheel, as well as the maximum width which will actually fit under your car without rubbing. This is too broad of a subject for an SE site, so will leave it at that. Your best bet is to research car forums which are dedicated to your specific car and see what they are using for those dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:32:22.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16024" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:39:14.813" Score="4" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unused tires harden and deteriorate quickly in harsh desert climates. When I shop for tires I want to make sure I get ones that are as fresh as possible from the factory without trusting the sales representatives too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to tell when a tire was made just by looking at it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:39:14.813" Title="How can I tell when a tire was manufactured?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16023" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:39:14.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most legislations require tire manufacturers to list the &lt;em&gt;week&lt;/em&gt; and year of manufacture as a 4-digit code on the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNk5v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire Rack Pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example picture, the last four digits of the tire identification number (5107) refer to the week and year of manufacture (&lt;em&gt;WWYY&lt;/em&gt; format).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the tire in the image was manufactured in Week 51 of 2007 (mid-December).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:39:14.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16032" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:39:21.830" Score="5" ViewCount="78269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new Pulsar 150 motorcycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While reading its specs in the user manual, I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Total litres (reserve, usable) = 15 litres (3.2 litres reserve, 2 litres usable) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that 15 liters is the peak amount of fuel in tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does this mean? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anyone explain what is &lt;code&gt;3.2 L reserve and 2 L usable&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9843" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T16:19:28.733" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T17:02:41.253" Title="What is &quot;Total litres (reserve, usable) = 15 litres (3.2 litres reserve, 2 litres usable)&quot;?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-consumption|bajaj|pulsar|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:41:02.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should fill your tires &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;as often as they need filled&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Checking your tires once a week is a good maintenance schedule. If, while doing your checks, you discover one or both are low, add some air to them. If you discover there is a continual loss of pressure, you'll need to get the tires checked for leaks as @DukatiKiller suggests. There is no reason to check just one tire and not the other tire, but as was also stated, there is no correlation between the two tires. Do what you need to do to keep them at the proper pressure for the best ride experience, for piece of mind, and for safety's sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T10:41:02.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:47:13.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means that you have 2 liters with the petcock switched to 'reserve'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you run out of gas when the petcock is in the 'On' position you can switch to 'reserve' and get an additional 2.0 liters to get to your next fuel stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you get 2.0 liters of driving time.  The 1.2 liters left in reserve is unusable because it can't get into the petcock. Your total reserve is 3.2 liters with 1.2 liters essentially wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T00:46:02.133" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T00:46:02.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16015" CreationDate="2015-03-20T11:04:49.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safely jack one or both front wheels off the ground. Manually spin the tire while watching the tread pattern. If you notice a shift in the tread you have a bad tire. Sometimes the belts the tires are made of shift under the tread. It is also referred to as tread squirm or shift. It can be subtle enough to not be noticeable on the rear but can be felt when the tires are mounted on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T11:04:49.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16044" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:04:05.187" Score="4" ViewCount="1842" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Toyota Corolla got backed into by a snowplow a few month's back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oluOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The headlight/bulb still works (amazingly); however&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lens/plastic covering over it is busted; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The entire headlight unit is no longer fastened to the car, which is why I need duct tape to hold it in place. If I remove the duct tape, the entire unit falls out, and dangles by the electric wire going to the bulb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the lens covering the bulb; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-attach/fastern the headlight unit back to the car, so I can remove the duct tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My similarly-related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any special tools/techniques I need to replace the lens cover?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any special tools/techniques I need to re-attach the unit to the car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tore out the duct tape so you can see what it looks like when the headlight is allowed to dangle out. No signs of any damage to the underlying sub-structure, but I can't figure out how the headlight ever &quot;snapped into&quot; or fastened itself to the sub-structure/car body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qkrac.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9842" LastEditorUserId="9842" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T15:35:57.763" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:20:54.997" Title="How to install replacement lens for headlight" Tags="|toyota|headlight|repair|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16007" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:24:50.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT based on comments:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little hard to tell exactly how much oil we're talking about.  The dipstick isn't necessarily a linear measurement: being halfway down the stick doesn't necessarily mean that you have exactly 1/2 your normal allotment of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder: as always, this is your car and you have to make the call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that and based on the fact that you have driven the car at all, it doesn't sound like you have a terminally overfilled sump.  If you did, the car would likely have broken in a variety of ways (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/how-far-can-i-drive-with-1-gallon-too-much-oil?rq=1&quot;&gt;as discussed in a previous question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the car was just sitting long enough that much of the residual oil covering the moving parts eventually dripped back down into the sump.  In that case, you'll be fine and the car will appreciate the exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a simpler issue than you thought: just remove the excess oil. It's not that hard to reduce a slight overfill even if you've never been under the car before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate a long piece of thin flexible tubing (e.g., aquarium pump tubing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the dipstick and set aside (you probably already have it out since you just checked the oil). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed the tubing down the dipstick tube, leaving plenty sticking out so you can keep a grip on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your thumb over the end of the tube and pull it out. The tube should come out full of oil. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the end of the tube into one of the many oil cans that you have around since you've been topping off your oil all the time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe down your dipstick and check your oil level. If it's still too high, return to step 3.  If it's too low, pour some of the oil back in and recheck. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fluid extractor, you can actually remove most or all of your oil via the dipstick tube. Your situation sounds much smaller scale that that, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T18:06:11.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15993" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:28:20.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; on solar? No chance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are any number of solar kits on the market that will connect to your leisure battery within the camper.  They aren't difficult to install.  Just follow the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:28:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:37:23.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tube that draws fuel out of the tank is not at the absolute lowest point of the tank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when the fuel runs almost dry, the last few drops won't be picked up.  That could be because of airlocking or there is a contour in the tank that leaves a small amount of fuel inaccessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, there is 1.2l of unaccessible fuel.  This phenomenon seems to be a lot more common on bikes than four-wheeled vehicles.  I believe this is because of the way the fuel tanks are mounted in the two chassis types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:37:23.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16980" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:54:48.083" Score="1" ViewCount="3692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to find the theoretical maximum resting car battery voltage so I can determine a good voltage threshold to trigger off in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threshold voltage must be above the theoretical maximum resting car battery but below the alternator voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;example 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;maximum resting car battery voltage = 13V&#xA;alternator voltage = 13.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Threshold switching voltage = 13.25V &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In [1], it is 12.9V but optima is 13.1V and Ballistic Performance Components EVO2 Battery is 13.7V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Denton, T (2012). Automotive and Electrical Systems. USA: Routledge. P186.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if there was a Ballistic EVO2 Battery installed &lt;strong&gt;example 1&lt;/strong&gt; would not function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the most typical maximum resting voltage is in a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="9194" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T17:28:19.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:45:19.583" Title="Maximum resting 12V car battery voltage" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23805" CreationDate="2015-03-20T13:16:34.010" Score="6" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;My impression is that all the mass produced hybrid vehicles on the market are parallel hybrids, namely both the ICE and the electric motor are both connected to the drivetrain to drive the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it seems to me like series hybrids would be more efficient since they eliminate the transmission ( I assume ) and could also eliminate the entire drivetrain by using in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nanalyze.com/2014/03/proteans-unique-100hp-in-wheel-electric-motor/&quot;&gt;wheel electric motors&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I mistaken, and they're being mass produced, or it not, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T12:13:20.217" Title="Series Hybrids: Why Isn't Anyone Making Them?" Tags="|hybrid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:11:06.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is power requirements. Most of the vehicles are parallel, or mild hybrids, some are series/parallel (Prius and Tahoe come to mind), and there are a few series ones (Chev Volt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A series hybrid has to have enough electrical power to get the vehicle to top speed. This means bigger motors, even bigger batteries, and a decent size genset or fuel cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will become more prevalent as the technology gets better. And as Hydrogen stations become more wide spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T14:11:06.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15973" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:21:58.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the instruction manual for the camera. The wire (mostly likely black) it tells you to connect to ground, connect to ground. The wire (mostly likely red) it tells you to hook to the back up lights run to a switch that is fused and powered off a circuit that's hot in run and accessory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also run the monitor off the same switch for simplicity. When you want it on you turn on the switch. Even if you leave the switch on when you turn off the car the camera and monitor go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T14:21:58.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:00:26.750" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a website, list, book, etc that provides a comprehensive list of auto parts, description and synonymous words?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: An example for my Jeep I just had the ignition pickup replaced. However in my Haynes Jeep book that part is no where listed. After much research I have found that its referenced as camshaft position sensor (in the book) and on some sites its referenced as a distributor switch plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6626" LastEditorUserId="6626" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T23:14:33.763" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T23:14:33.763" Title="Comprehensive Dictionary of Auto parts" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T15:35:58.113" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a brand new PCM on my Buick enclave 2008 gives me the P0602 code, the vehicle does not work, and some tell me it takes flasher PCM? I would like to know how flacher PCM (the stage) and is what a poor fitting of the box can cause this code &quot;programming error.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ed Sosthène" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T16:31:56.297" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:38:36.623" Title="Programming error Buick Enclave 2008" Tags="|buick|electronic-control-module|flash-programing|enclave|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16038" CreationDate="2015-03-20T16:38:36.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0602 simply means the control module is not programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Programming is generally required when installing a new PCM in most modern vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to take the vehicle and the new PCM to a shop with the specialize equipment to program the computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a DIY solution to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:38:36.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-03-20T18:26:45.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned that the schrader valve could be leaking air too.  Older valves may have their rubber seals deteriorate over time and leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do the soapy water test, you might want to try putting some over the schrader valve area as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9848" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T19:35:06.917" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:35:06.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16037" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:15:07.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_auto_parts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That isn't a joke. That list will actually get you a fair ways towards being able to tell a mechanic something useful. For example, sometimes it's not immediately obvious if you're looking at a catalytic converter or a resonator. However, given that vocabulary list, you'd at least be able to say &quot;this part is rattling&quot; and when the mechanic agrees that the heat shield on your cat is loose, you both feel like you solved the problem together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:15:07.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16029" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:20:54.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These days you do not bother with replacing the lens cover because it's a sealed unit. Just buy a whole new assembly from your favorite web parts supplier (eg. Amazon, Rockauto, eBay), local auto parts, or a Toyota dealer ($$$). Look for &quot;Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Assembly&quot; or similar for the make and year of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The genuine Toyota part will be significantly more expensive but usually higher quality (you don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to buy these from a dealer, there are OEM suppliers out there, including Amazon, that can be cheaper). With that said, unless I really care about the car I usually buy the cheaper aftermarket versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the metal/frame damage. Usually once you have the new assembly in hand it will be obvious why the old one was falling out. Most likely the plastic mounting tabs on the old assembly are simply broken but could be metal/frame damage that will need to be bent/beaten back in to place. Hopefully you didn't lose any screws. Dealer or hardware store can provide fasteners. You can always disassemble the one on the other side if you're not sure how it's suppose to be attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the vehicle you may have to remove the front bumper cover and other plastic pieces on the front of the car to enable you to properly fit and mount the new unit or take the old one off. Although sometimes you get lucky and everything is accessible without disassembling too much stuff. If it looks complicated I recommend a service manual/book to explain the proper procedure (available for purchase or if you search the web the PDF's are usually out there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="971" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:20:54.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T20:14:33.610" Score="5" ViewCount="4223" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Electronic Control Unit on my FJ Cruiser is not relaying the signal properly to the rear differential lock actuator when I switch it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to bypass the ECU altogether and make the switch lock and unlock the diff on-demand. How do I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the circuit diagrams but some parts I can't make sense of. Does anyone have experience with Toyota circuit diagrams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagrams, see page 200: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/2007-toyota-fj-cruiser-electrical-wiring-diagram.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/2007-toyota-fj-cruiser-electrical-wiring-diagram.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the shop at the Toyota dealer confirmed the ECU failure. According to them the actuator is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2 and happy conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So much for the shop's diagnosis. Very recently I took it off road again and after a couple of bumps I decided to push the REAR LOCK button once more. It worked fine. Bought my '07 FJ used in '14 and it took almost 3 years of use to shake it loose. Seems the previous owner never even tried to use the locker and it was seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Show your truck some love and take it off road for some exercise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9852" LastEditorUserId="9852" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T23:20:13.260" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T23:20:13.260" Title="How to hack an on-demand rear diff locker on FJ Cruiser bypassing the ECU?" Tags="|toyota|wiring|differential|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15885" CreationDate="2015-03-20T21:07:26.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Overview&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few items that would be considered essential regarding maintenance and consumable parts.  Parts on quads that are considered consumable include the standard items such as break pads but also items such as brake levers.  Since the vehicle may tip over, breaking a lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Kit Items&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire repair kit.  This would include a good set of rubber plugs and vulcanizing glue.  There are C02 cartridges that can be used to refill a tire.  If you are 20km out from base with a flat, you'll be glad you have this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare tubes - Even though they are tubeless rims.  Having a few spare tubes is always a good idea for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Several Tie Downs - Having tie downs in your kit to hold the quad together if you have had an accident is very nice.  As well, using the tie downs on the carrier racks to secure  is very convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Duct Tape - Great temporary fix 'tool'&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carrier Box - A mountable carrier box on the racks to carry spare items and the emergency kit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tool Roll - a minimalist emergency toolkit to put on the vehicle that is never removed.  All bolts are metric.  The popular bolts on the Grizzly are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Medium gauge wire roll - Spare wire for when handlebar wires, kill switch wire etc. are cut in an accident. Happens more than you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crimp on wire connectors - having crimp on wire connectors for when you need to repair the harness after an accident. Be sure to have the crimp tool as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare fuses&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Spare Parts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One spare rim, minimum.   It seems every team has 'that guy' that if he gets a flat, will drive a vehicle 40km on it, even if he has a repair kit, and destroy the rim.  Have heard the story too many times.  Highly suggest this to be in your spare parts shed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare tires - A full set at least plus 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set of handlebars.  Two or three. Handlebars get bent and folded up frequently on quads.  If you can find steel handlebars, they back better, heat them up and get a pipe on he end bend it back.  This does destroy the integrity a bit and if you did it too many times you could snap one off when you're riding and hit a bad bump.  Use caution with this advice.  If you change them out when they get bent and save them in the parts shed, you can recycle them into the system if you're in a pinch perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare levers - Spare brake levers.  They are aluminum alloy and snap off all the time.  ASV makes a great folding lever.  My son had a penchant for crashing at high speed while he was racing and I managed to have one  of these levers last an entire season while replacing everything else multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare Headlight lamps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare footbrake pedal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CV Boots&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I will try and add more ideas for you a bit later.  This could be a good start for you.  Hope this is valuable, best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T06:45:54.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T06:45:54.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T00:03:52.387" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a manual transmission in a Ford Ranger with 240,000 miles and it has recently started making an intermittent grinding/grating noise. The conditions under which I have heard it are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clutch is disengaged&lt;/strong&gt; - If I re-engage the clutch (let off the clutch pedal), the noise goes away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission is in gear&lt;/strong&gt; - If I move the stick into neutral while it is making the noise, it will go away.&lt;/s&gt; See edit below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traveling at low speeds&lt;/strong&gt; - Under about 5 mph or at a stop. At first it would only happen if I was moving at low speeds and go away as I stopped, but most recently it has continued to make the noise at a complete stop as well, though it does seem to slowly fade at a stop. It could be happening at higher speeds, but I don't notice it. I don't think it is loud enough that I would hear it above the road noise if it was happening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sometimes&lt;/strong&gt; - It doesn't do it every time these conditions are met.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common scenario is that I'm coming up to a stop and I hold the clutch in and downshift into second/first above 10 mph. Then, as I continue to slow down with the clutch still disengaged, the noise will start around 5 mph and might vary in intensity until I've let off the clutch to accelerate. It seems like it is at its loudest just before I stop. Also, I wouldn't say the noise is &lt;em&gt;loud&lt;/em&gt;, but it is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was talking with a mechanic and he said if it only makes the noise with the clutch pedal pressed then it is most likely the throwout bearing, but I have been googling the symptoms and I've been getting conflicting answers. My understanding is that the throwout bearing would make the noise when the clutch is pressed, but in all the videos I've seen about a throwout bearing the person is walking around the car with their camera which means they are not pressing on the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 23 March 2015:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent some time just trying to recreate the noise a paying attention to the conditions. I was only able to get it to do it a few times, but I noticed a few differences from my original conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission does not have to be in gear&lt;/strong&gt; - I was able to move through the gears (including neutral) and it would continue making the noise, though it might vary in intensity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Releasing the clutch makes the noise &lt;em&gt;stop&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - I had it in neutral and let out the clutch very quickly (much quicker than if I was pulling away from a stop in first) and the noise disappeared immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It happens while stopped&lt;/strong&gt; - I had started to notice when I came to a complete stop, so as part of trying to recreate the noise I had the car in the driveway and put it in first and pushed the clutch in and out a little (not enough to move the car) and I was able to get it to make the noise once for about 20 tries.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9853" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:31:32.337" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:31:32.337" Title="Clutch/transmission noise" Tags="|clutch|noise|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-23T17:26:33.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36637" CreationDate="2015-03-21T06:03:34.457" Score="37" ViewCount="8188" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Backstory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In motorcycling you can get cams that change the firing order and time from a traditional 1,3,4,2.  It's was very common in American road racing in the 1990's to hear 4 Cylinder engines that sounded like two cylinder v-twins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way these guys did it and ultimately popularized this configuration for awhile was to essentially cut the cams in half at the center and rotate one side 180 degrees and weld them back together.  This first try wasn't reliable for obvious reasons but you know how racers are and what they will do to get an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This configuration became known as the big bang engine.  On a 180 degree crank 1 and 4 would fire at the same time and 2 and 3 would then fire at the same time 180 degrees later in the rotation.  This allowed for v-twin low end torque numbers to increase (big debate on that actually) AND since it was a well balanced 4 cylinder engine it would still get those incredible rev's up in the 12,000 plus range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary objective for this config is the bottom end power curve is much steeper and levels off earlier to peak horsepower.  It makes the motor feel like a two stroke in many ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that time I've built a couple of these engines with cams that are now available, a bit rare, but available.  I can tell you they're super fun and sound awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally, onto my question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do any of the four cylinder car guys out there run this configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If they do, what would they call those cams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I'm really curious, are there any similar solutions for Subaru platforms like the 2008 or 2009 WRX Boxer motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider myself a pretty good googler but when it comes to finding car mod solutions I fall in a hole and frankly many of the sites out there offering components are klugy and poorly put together using fancy terminology that my motorcycle brain doesn't comprehend.  Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some linkss regarding this and similar configurations with motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big-bang_firing_order&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia on the big bang engine.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar but it is done at the crank.  It's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8VmFP6vGPc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;crossplane crankshaft&lt;/a&gt; where the offset journals are at every 90 degrees.  Chevy uses a  crossplane configuration in many of it's ICE platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good explanation, this one really nails it and breaks down the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2005/04/08april05_bigbang/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;big bang engine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T20:36:38.960" Title="Changing Firing Order in a 4 Cylinder Car" Tags="|engine|camshaft|valve-timing|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15885" CreationDate="2015-03-21T11:22:06.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke to someone who has Grizzlys for similar work here, he suggested the following necessities and spare parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic repair kit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carburetor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air filters &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil filters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake/throttle cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CDI unit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter coil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9748" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T11:22:06.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15954" CreationDate="2015-03-21T15:40:48.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic checked today. It was the lock bolt that was loose. he tightened it and the knocking sound went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031325500W03.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031325500W03.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's item no 2 in the link above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shudder to think what would have happened if it came loose. Wouldn't that make the car spin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7582" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T15:40:48.947" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-03-21T15:40:48.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16058" CreationDate="2015-03-21T18:48:19.977" Score="2" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;While shopping for some anti-seize for my O2 sensor install, I came across some transmission lube that had me wondering about whether I could use it as an alternative to anti-seize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to have the functionality expected of anti-seize in an O2 sensor application&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High temperature resistance (the can says 700 °F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevention of two dissimilar materials from fusing by forming a coating on the surface it is sprayed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability (assuming this if it is meant for transmissions which see waaay more wear and tear than the average O2 sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motivation behind this question is the apparent scarcity of anti-seize compound in my quarters; I had to spend a good couple of hours before finding a place that actually had some in stock. It would be useful to know for future reference that one can get by with an alternative product that provides similar characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii623/zedinc/For%20the%20Forum/b931e5e3-a8d1-4afb-87b2-c16cecae8ea9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cyclo Dry Moly Lube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.000" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T18:36:50.840" Title="Using dry moly lube as an alternative to anti-seize" Tags="|o2-sensor|anti-seize|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16086" CreationDate="2015-03-21T20:09:38.037" Score="3" ViewCount="4314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to begin by saying that my mechanical experience with cars only stretches as far as I've seen on Top Gear. My knowledge about cars isn't any better than a 5 year olds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now then, I've got a 2008 Peugeot 207. I'm in a rural town so the car isn't used very much, haven't used it for 6-8 weeks until today &#xA;I've had several problems with this car, one of which is that the handbrake lever gets completely loose. Normally this isn't a big of a problem and I just get it fixed during regular maintenance. This time however the handbrake was on when it happened and the car is now stuck in my driveway. The last time i used the car it was just fine, didn't hear any sort of noise or anything when I was turning it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I´m turning to you guys because i want to at least turn the handbrake off so the car can be moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to get a look inside where the handbrake lever is and the wires there were attached and the lever pulls the wires if i pull it high enough but the wires don't seem to pull back on the lever. I don't think i can explain that any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what would my next step be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9860" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T09:53:11.463" Title="Peugeot 207 Handbrake lever loose with handbrake on" Tags="|peugeot|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T22:38:51.090" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would my engine lose power when the weather temperature gets warmer. While driving the vehicle will not have as much power when it gets warm or hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9861" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T13:04:13.073" Title="weather causing power loss" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16055" CreationDate="2015-03-21T23:47:04.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things which could potentially cause you issues with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you don't know if it is conductive. One of the properties of anti-seize is that it maintains conductivity between the two parts. In this way it works great for spark plugs and O2 sensors. I was reading about it on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide#Research&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; and it was a little beyond my comprehension right now as to it's conductive properties (seems in some places it was suggesting it would and other place it wouldn't conduct electricity ... could be a crap shoot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you'd need to worry about (but could easily overcome) is that it is a spray on lubricant. You &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO NOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; want to get any of this on the business end of the sensor. If you do, it will surely ruin it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't normally promote products on here, I will this time ... I usually try to purchase Denso brand O2 sensors because they work pretty well, plus they include a small tube of copper based anti-seize in it. There is enough anti-seize in the tube to do about three or four O2 installs. I wish I could find a large tube of this to use on a regular basis ... it just works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T23:47:04.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-22T01:49:45.730" Score="5" ViewCount="3344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need tires for my 2005 A4 quattro. Every time I go and get a quote I'm asked what kind of vehicle I have, and once I say &quot;Audi&quot; they recommend for me to get the more expensive tires. Do I need to get the more expensive tires, or just regular tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9862" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T16:19:40.527" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T09:56:21.500" Title="Do I need expensive tires for my Audi A4?" Tags="|tires|audi|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23541" CreationDate="2015-03-22T02:55:14.397" Score="3" ViewCount="15516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some weird scraping/rubbing noise in my right front wheel. I&#xA;I hear it regardless of weather i brake or not, and the slower i go the more low pitched and grindy it sounds. It continues to scrape at normal driving speeds, but is very high pitched and not very noticeable. I do not hear it as much while in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what I have checked/tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brakes look ok, the caliper must be sliding properly since there is even wear on both inside and outer pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rotor looked pretty good but possibly warped.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the front brakes and rotors, but am still hearing the noise&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It occours less when I am in reverse, or when Im turning right. It is more apparent while turning left, but it is happening all of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so at this point I think it might be a wheel hub bearing, but it's not  'wubwubwub' noise everyone describes it as.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the noise: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN30O-m8CpY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN30O-m8CpY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:37:27.537" Title="Front wheel scraping noise" Tags="|brakes|noise|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16057" CreationDate="2015-03-22T13:04:13.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To some extent, all combustion engines lose power in warmer conditions. Cold air is denser, and contains more oxygen, so more fuel can be burned, resulting in more power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it an incremental change in power, or do you notice that over a certain temperature, there is a large noticeable drop in power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9866" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T13:04:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2015-03-22T17:45:19.687" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;tire shops don't want to sell you junk tires.  they lose time and money when you come back complaining about excessive noise or a rough ride, and the techs barely make any money doing warranty work. they aren't always just trying to steal your money when they recommend a more expensive option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T17:45:19.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:30:31.547" Score="0" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 ford explorer. I drove it yesterday no problems. Went to start it today and the key won't even turn in the ignition. The theft light is blinking.  I've tried disconnecting the battery and that's not working.  Is there any way to disable the anti theft as I don't have money to go to a dealership&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9871" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T00:12:44.510" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T13:53:59.327" Title="2002 explorer anti theft light" Tags="|ford|security|explorer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2015-03-22T23:45:08.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you would be better served by going in with some specific questions rather than allowing a salesman (who might be paid on commission) to drive your purchase.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when I search Tire Rack for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?filtering=true&amp;amp;width=215%2F&amp;amp;ratio=55&amp;amp;diameter=16&amp;amp;autoMake=Audi&amp;amp;autoYear=2005&amp;amp;autoModel=A4%201.8T%20Quattro&amp;amp;autoModClar=Base%20Model&amp;amp;sortCode=45350&amp;amp;tireIndex=0&amp;amp;wtpackage=false&quot;&gt;2005 Audio A4 Quattro (Base model)&lt;/a&gt;, I see many tires ranging upwards from $265 USD.  When I purchased my &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/20415497#20415497&quot;&gt;snow tires&lt;/a&gt; recently, I asked the shop that I wanted to purchase them from for a quote on those specific tires.  They gave me an acceptable price and I've been very satisfied with the performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, this is shopping advice and I would normally point you towards &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/340/the-pitstop&quot;&gt;the chat&lt;/a&gt; as a better place to ask open-ended opinion or shopping themed questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T00:19:13.813" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:19:13.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T08:52:18.510" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '59 Nash Met. with a straight 4. It runs great, but when I turn it off the engine continues to run for up to a minute, sometimes violently shaking as it comes to a halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what causes this or how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T14:00:33.027" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T14:08:52.483" Title="Engine doesn't want to stop" Tags="|engine|metropolitan|nash|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T08:58:59.703" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '59 Nash say for a few months (ok, a year). I recently got it running again by changing out the spark plugs and fuel filter. We let it run for awhile, then shut it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's when we noticed that the carburetor was leaking fuel from two places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We cleaned up the fuel, then ran the engine again. This time no fuel leaked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of our crew guessed that the seals had dried out and shrunk with age and the fuel caused them to swell back to their proper size. Is this possible? If not, what could have been the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1186" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T14:00:12.783" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T18:34:11.793" Title="Leaking, then not leaking, carburetor" Tags="|carburetor|nash|metropolitan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16073" CreationDate="2015-03-23T10:12:13.953" Score="6" ViewCount="7713" Body="&lt;p&gt;On motorcycles with manual transmissions, the shifting gears goes (down to up) like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st Gear (all down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neutral (half up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd (full up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(so on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7fNQP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motorcycle Gears pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the logic behind this? Wouldn't it be easier in this pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neutral (all down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(so on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T12:00:55.850" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:00:55.850" Title="Why are gears designed in this pattern in motorcycles?" Tags="|motorcycle|shifting|gears|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-23T13:56:15.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16072" CreationDate="2015-03-23T10:51:27.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at it this way, the sequence is indeed linear - 1-2-3-4 and so on, with the neutral sitting in-between 1st and 2nd gear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Which means, to shift to neutral from 1st gear (or down from second), one has to gently nudge the shifter into neutral, else it would directly jump to 2nd gear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is desire-able as one generally doesn't need to shift to neutral while riding/driving. In-fact, accidentally shifting to neutral while in motion can be understandably unsafe.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One of the advantages of sequential transmission is that one only has to think in terms of shifting up or down. I personally tend to forget which gear I'm in especially during multiple downshifts while slowing down. Removing neutral out of the picture and cleverly hiding it in between gears solves this problem effectively as one wouldn't un-intentionally fall into neutral with a committed click of the shifter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even if you did, you can shift to your desired gear by moving the shifter in the same direction as you previously did. Let me illustrate this with an example-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suppose you wanted to shift down from 2nd gear to 1st and you didn't end up rocking the shifter down* all the way. You realize this and quickly press further, in the &lt;strong&gt;same direction&lt;/strong&gt; to drop to 1st. It is &lt;strong&gt;one motion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With the pattern you suggested, which was indeed used in older motor-cycles, if you accidentally miscalculated and dropped to neutral (being the lowest in order) you'd have to rock the shifter in the opposite direction to shift to first. This would require you to re-place your foot in the correct position wrt the shifter to achieve this. 2 movements in opposite directions. This is definitely slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T11:28:24.150" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T11:28:24.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16070" CreationDate="2015-03-23T11:21:17.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the idle speed first. Many older cars had a different idle speed for manual or automatic. Look for a vacuum leak as this could cause a slight idle speed increase. As could dirt holding the throttle plates open. Check the timing at the correct idle speed. If the timing is advanced the pistons can get hot spots. If the idle is high enough, after killing the ignition the engine spins enough to draw in fuel and the hot spots ignite it, keeping the motor running. This is referred to as dieseling (combustion without an ignition spark) or engine run on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T11:21:17.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16072" CreationDate="2015-03-23T12:57:25.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chilljeet has a good answer, but it's also partially a safety thing. When you're slowing down to a stop, you're clicking down in the gears until you can't click down anymore. If the bottom gear was neutral, you're a sitting duck until you can get back in gear if someone is coming up behind you at a high speed. You need to be in gear and able to react immediately in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9876" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:57:25.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16070" CreationDate="2015-03-23T13:45:56.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it's dieseling to a stop. As @mikes suggests, there are hot spots in the combustion chamber. This is usually because there is carbon buildup there. You'll need to clean the carbon out, plus check your timing, and also ensure your carb isn't dumping unwanted fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean the combustion chambers, I'd suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seafoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. Also, you can try cleaning your plugs (or outright replacing them). (&lt;strong&gt;EDIT NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I see in your other question you already replaced the plugs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering it has sat for a while, rebuilding the carb would probably be in order. If it is an original style carb, it shouldn't be too hard to rebuild. They were pretty simple and straight forward back then. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metpitstop.com/catalog.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parts catalog online&lt;/a&gt;, which may be of assistance. I see they have a parts kit for an original Met listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T14:08:52.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T14:08:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:02:13.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as if the unloading valve is staying open hence all the boost going to waste. The valve then intermittently closes to function normally and randomly stays open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T15:02:13.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2015-03-23T17:14:59.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you fit the same size tyres, it doesn't matter all that much. &quot;Premium&quot; tyres don't make as much noise when you're cruising (e.g. the Geolandar tyres on the Subaru Forester is jokingly called the GeoSquealers) and they might offer a bit better handling in dry or wet conditions, but if you don't drive like a maniac, you probably won't notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus, &quot;cheap&quot; tyres normally last longer because they're made from a harder compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T17:14:59.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15579" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:11:44.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One item that hasn't been mentioned but seems like it should be on the list is cleaning the MAF ( and maybe IAT ) if they're the hot wire type.  Even though it's not considered &quot;regular maintenance&quot; it seems like they seem to get fouled allot on older, high mileage vehicles.  I did a partial, quickie cleaning of mine on my 97 Mazda 323 and saw an immediate difference in the cars behavior.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yotatech.com/f2/what-should-clean-maf-sensor-look-like-205737/#post51379480&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here are some pictures&lt;/a&gt; of what one looks like before and after cleaning ( not my model ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:47:35.517" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:47:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21774" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:16:40.527" Score="3" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out what is the maximum Bluetooth protocol level that the 2015 Prius C will &lt;strong&gt;use&lt;/strong&gt; (if it matters, I have the &quot;Two&quot; trim, without the Entune system). I understand that Bluetooth devices are backwards-compatible; I know that if I have, say, a Bluetooth 4.1 device, then it'll still work even if the car only supports Bluetooth 2.0 -- but in that case, both the client and the receiver will speak Bluetooth 2.0 to each other, since they fall back to the lowest common denominator. I am looking for the maximum protocol level that the car will actually &quot;speak&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 322 of the 2015 Toyota Prius C Manual (part # OM52E68U) states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ver. 2.0 or higher (Recommended: Ver. 3.0+EDR or higher)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only information I could find that even &lt;em&gt;suggests&lt;/em&gt; the maximum version of the Bluetooth spec that the Prius C actually supports -- it seems to suggest that 3.0 + EDR is supported. However, it doesn't actually come out and say that it supports 3.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mostly interested in seeing if it actually supports things like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy (LE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apt-X or AAC audio codecs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the manual doesn't state it, so I'm left to either assume that it doesn't support them, or maybe it does and the manual writers didn't get the memo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:50:59.583" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T01:09:42.393" Title="What is the Bluetooth revision supported by the 2015 Prius C?" Tags="|toyota|bluetooth|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T21:06:57.500" Score="5" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy an RV from a friend. I've never bought any kind of vehicle before, and I know nothing about cars except through web searches. But I do have a grad-level physics education and some engineering experience with which to understand answers to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that everything works well except the shocks, which are incredibly soft. They may be as much as 20 years old. I plan to drive this only 10-100 miles at a time, 100-500 miles per year, so I'm not worried but I want to make sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could an old suspension pose any kind of safety hazard?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could an old suspension pose any kind of risk of damaging something (i.e. expensive repair)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could an old suspension cost me in any other way, like a drastically reduced resale value?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there ever going to be a time when the suspension absolutely needs to be replaced just to drive it a few miles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there ever going to be a time when the suspension absolutely needs to be replaced to legally sell the RV?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T21:30:43.993" Title="What's wrong with worn-out suspension?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16083" CreationDate="2015-03-23T21:30:43.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shocks serve several functions. They moderate the compression and extension of the suspension. When a spring is deflected the shock allows it to compress and expand at a controlled rate. It dampens the &quot;pogo stick&quot; effect. If the pogo stick effect goes on for a period of times it can cause early spring failure. This happens because the spring goes from fully compressed to fully extended at a rapid rate. This rapid movement can result in a rollover in high wind or emergency maneuvers. Have you ever seen a vehicle turned over during a civil disturbance? It is done by shifting the weight from one side to the other in a rapid manner. This is similar to driving in a high wind, especially in a tall vehicle with broad flat sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T21:30:43.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16087" CreationDate="2015-03-24T09:32:18.030" Score="3" ViewCount="10368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall diesel automatic with electronic handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following is the best procedure at a red light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave in drive, foot on brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave in drive, engage handbrake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place in neutral, engage handbrake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage handbrake, place in neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place in neutral, foot on brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For best, please consider both driver safety and mechanical wear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6727" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T01:20:29.043" Title="Should I put my (UK) Automatic into Neutral at stops?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16056" CreationDate="2015-03-24T09:53:11.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a mechanic to look at it for me. Turns out that it was just stuck after all the bad weather that has been going on for the past few weeks and he fixed it by hitting the wire with a wrench a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9860" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T09:53:11.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2015-03-24T11:29:16.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl; dr&lt;/strong&gt; - Number 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Vauxhall is designed with an automatic transmission. The transmission has what's called a torque converter which couples the engine to the transmission. The torque converter has a &lt;em&gt;stall speed&lt;/em&gt;. This means it will not throw power/torque at the transmission until the engine gets to a certain speed. Once it reaches the stall speed, power and torque will then start being applied. Stall speed will always be &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; idle speed. You can therefor leave it in drive while sitting at a red light without worry of damaging any internal parts or causing any extra wear in the transmission, engine, or drive train (as long as you let it idle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to have some sort of braking mechanism for your vehicle. Whether that's the handbrake or the regular brakes, that's what's in question. In this case, you should leave your hand brake alone and use the foot brake. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, this is what the foot brake was designed to do. It was designed to convert your forward momentum into heat through friction to stop the vehicle when needed. Secondly, it's there to hold the vehicle still temporarily while you are waiting to go again, whether it's a stoplight, stop sign, or little kids crossing at a cross walk. Your hand brake was designed to keep the vehicle still for extended periods of time and to assist the parking mechanism within the transmission so there isn't as much pressure on it when engaged (especially on hills and such). It is not designed to be taken on/off at every stop light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case other than number one, you are creating undue wear on mechanical parts for no reason. For the transmission, you'll be wearing out linkage mechanisms faster, as well as internal parts in the valve body (the part which directs the fluid flow within the transmission - the brains of the transmission). For the hand brake, you'll be creating wear on the braking mechanism, the parts which actuates the brake, and the brakes themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway you look at it, your best option is to allow the vehicle to work as designed. Just leave it in gear and apply the foot brake and your vehicle will be fine without causing undue wear and tear on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T11:29:16.063" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:09:29.217" Score="3" ViewCount="3881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sense a burning smell when getting out of the car (Nissan Maxima 02 V6). I am pretty sure it is an oil leak from somewhere based on the odor, but not sure where else to look for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell was pretty heavy about a month ago and I noticed that the valve covers were wet outside and oil would drip on top of the heat shields of the exhaust manifolds (both front and rear). So this is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed both valve cover gaskets (lots of gasket maker on the curved edges).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the outside of the valves as well as I could.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the heat shields of the two exhaust manifolds (For the rear one I could only get my hand so far down there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the 3 gaskets that come with the intake manifold plentum kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the space in between the intake manifold since there were debri, dust, oil etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing all the above I have to say that the burn smell SIGNIFICANTLY dropped, now I only sense it when getting out of the car but before I could sense it as soon as I turn the car on or off and at times even while driving when putting the heat on, I thought I was going to intoxicate myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is still smell when getting out of the car, even though is not as strong, I do not like it. It seems like there is still a leak somewhere and I do not know where. I went over everything I did  (visual and feel inspection) and there is no more oil leaking from the valve covers, the exhaust shields are dry. It has to be a mild leak because I do not see oil staints in the ground and the car does not complain about being low on oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where could this be coming from? any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestion&lt;/strong&gt;: Also somebody with enough rights could create the following tags: &lt;strong&gt;valve cover&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;manifold&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;intake manifold&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;exhaust manifold&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;heat shield&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&#xA;Viriato&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9826" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:52:13.630" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T13:49:36.850" Title="Burning smell when getting out of the car" Tags="|smell|head-gasket|gasket|valve-cover|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2015-03-24T14:37:05.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've already changed the brake calipers, hoses, and master cylinder, Im sure you've checked your brake fluid and have let out any air in the system. Another issue this could be caused by is your brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some Civics the entire pedal mechanism can be bought but I've seen cases where the spring within the brake pedal becomes loose, resulting in the brake pedal not fully retracting. This is sometimes called the &quot;Return Spring&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I would go next and have checked. Its been a cause to other issues I've faced too and it ended up just being a loose spring which needed changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T14:37:05.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16088" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:30:20.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try checking around every pipe, that you can visually see. Best route would be to get it up on a ramp and have a look underneath, have a look at the oil sump maybe there's a leak there. If you know someone with a ramp it would make it easier to look underneath the car though. Try going around to where the smell is coming from, see if there is maybe any burning pipe/rubber. Check your oil level every few days and see if it is going down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T16:30:20.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:33:42.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Audi generally relates to RWD or AWD cars with more power than the general drive around car that most people buy. Hence the most people recommend more expensive tyres to handle the extra power. However expensive tyres and cheap tyres can be bought for any car. It all depends on the specification you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best thing to do is search online with your tyre size. Look at review if you care about the tyres you want. Or if not then go for cheapest. Keeping in mind cheap tyres cannot in most cases be compared to the premium brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T16:33:42.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16071" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:34:11.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your crew member has a plausible explanation for the issue.  I don't have any experience on a '59 Nash, not even close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most my comparible experience is with pre-80's motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have repeatedly seen carbs leak initially when putting fuel into a system that has been dry for a decade plus, they frequently have air leaks and fuel leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems heat makes this 'work' bit better and allows the gaskets to expand with the fuel and heat and then a nice cool down squeezes out some of the fuel in gaskets and now they are moist and swollen and seem to hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go steady state with it though.  I can't see it continuing to function reliably over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most every time we are tearing everything down and doing a full rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T18:34:11.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:53:01.273" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cupholder mechanism in my 1999 Toyota Corolla broke on the bottom and on the sidebar and they need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about doing that? I assume the center console has to be taken apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2813" LastEditorUserId="2813" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T23:07:08.983" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T23:07:08.983" Title="How do you replace the cupholders in a late 90's (1999) model Toyota Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|interior|plastic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16106" CreationDate="2015-03-25T03:41:57.587" Score="5" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the ignition coils on my 81 Suzuki 450. The aftermarket coils are just large enough that the tank won't seat right,  even after adjusting the bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any issue in mounting the coils to a different spot on the frame?  I was thinking the vertical tubes between the tank and the handlebar.... I have enough slack to do this without rewiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T07:30:35.683" Title="Alternative location for motorcycle ignition coils?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16124" CreationDate="2015-03-25T05:18:19.017" Score="1" ViewCount="7771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reversing. While the car is still moving backwards, I switch gears from R to D, and press the accelerator to start moving forward. After a bit the car stops going backward, and starts moving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad always told me that I should wait for the car to come to a complete stop before switching from R to D. He said that unless I did this, I would be damaging my engine. Is he correct? (Note that I'm going at extremely low speeds during this entire switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9895" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T01:38:50.693" Title="Is it bad to switch gears to D while my car is still moving backwards" Tags="|automatic-transmission|nissan|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-29T16:26:55.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16108" CreationDate="2015-03-25T05:28:55.140" Score="4" ViewCount="7033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always assumed that my engine would do less work in N (neutral) than in D (drive). However, I tried a little experiment. My car wasn't moving, my foot is on the brake, and I have in D. I then switch to N, and to my shock, the RPM goes up! (Granted, it just went up by a little) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't this mean the engine is doing more work? Why would the engine do more work in N? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of the cars that I drove previously, the RPM always decrease in N. This is the first time I observed the opposite. (It is also the first time I'm driving a CVT (Continuous Variable Transimission), so I don't know if that has anything to do with it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9895" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:47:44.467" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T22:47:44.467" Title="At a complete stop, why is my RPM in Neutral gear greater than Drive gear?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|nissan|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T06:59:00.630" Score="8" ViewCount="4932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1500 watt heat gun with 12 settings from another project (the Wagner 3500, if anybody is curious.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an acquaintance that managed to crack their bumper, and I was hoping that I could fix it for them, as I felt bad for them under the circumstances.  The goal was to use plastic welding, but I don't want to buy an $300 tool to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:  Is it &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to do the plastic with a heat gun?  Would I need a special attachment?  Would I need any other tools, like a roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I already have/have access to the other tools required for this job.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9897" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:18:54.653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:49:08.733" Title="Is it possible to plastic weld a bumper with a heat gun?" Tags="|cosmetic|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T07:21:30.503" Score="3" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.mazda-club.eu/sub-model/mazda-323-familia-protege-iv-ba-bh-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323 BA 1.8L BP-DOCH&lt;/a&gt; I can't seem to find the IAT sensor.  It has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.il/search?q=B6BF%20maf&amp;amp;biw=1680&amp;amp;bih=902&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=TWYSVbzdPIPzaq_9gOAI&amp;amp;ved=0CCMQsAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;B6BF MAF&lt;/a&gt; with a 5 pin connector, but I don't see anything else between the air filter and the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the similar 96 Protege 1.8L &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Mazda-323-MX-3-626-MX-6-Millenia-Prot%C3%A9g%C3%A9-1990-1998-and-Ford-Probe-1993-1997/ELECTRONIC-ENGINE-CONTROLS/Intake-Air-Temperature-IAT-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f80cb0ea3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the IAT is located in the air filter cover&lt;/a&gt; next to the MAF.  It clearly has an IAT, since I see a reading for it when I hook up to the ECU, but I can figure out where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:58:56.037" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:58:56.037" Title="97 Mazda 323: Where is the IAT sensor?" Tags="|mazda|sensor|lantis-323|iat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2015-03-25T07:28:15.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with plastic welding with a heat gun is the concentration of heat, I think you allude to this in your post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When/if you can concentrate a heat gun's output on a small area and concentrate the heat you can get the level of heat that's required to melt the crack along a 'bead'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tip that's required will often back up the heat in the gun and fry it.  I've done it a bunch of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tip that you want allows excess back pressure from building up with a bleed off port before the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBcrE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rectangular hole allows for any back pressure to be released thereby preventing the gun from overheating and melting itself.  These tips have varying sizes of bleed off and of course the most effective tips are the ones with smallest bleed off area and highest chance of cooking the gun.  The more heat is concentrated from the tip the higher the chance it will be effective at melting the crack you want to plastic weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T07:28:15.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16099" CreationDate="2015-03-25T07:30:35.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;A Good Ground&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the coils on that bike want are a good ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a good spot on the frame to mount them that isn't in the way you are good.  Feel free to weld a couple of tabs onto a random convenient spot anywhere on the good iron from that you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T07:30:35.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16104" CreationDate="2015-03-25T08:00:48.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so it seems like the IAT on this model is integrated with the MAF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjQnO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T08:00:48.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16101" CreationDate="2015-03-25T09:50:32.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slight RPM increase when shifting from &quot;D&quot; to neutral is normal. The reason for this is the engaged transmission is putting a slight load on the engine and slowing it down. In neutral the engine is doing less work because it is not trying to turn the drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T09:50:32.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:00:48.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a specific heat gun for plastic welding for about $50. I would try the gun you have using plastic welding rod from Harbor Freight ($5.99). The rod package comes with a variety of materials for different plastics. You can experiment with just the rod to see at what temperature setting it melts. You may want to sand off the paint in the damaged area to prevent it from burning off and potentially ruining the repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:00:48.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:03:21.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to have to disagree with Paul here - the correct answer is #2. You should always apply the handbrake when stationary for more than a few moments, and release the footbrake. If you keep your foot on the brake pedal, you keep your brake lights on, and so you dazzle the driver behind you - it is a simple matter of common courtesy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:03:21.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16111" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:19:42.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:19:42.820" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:19:42.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16112" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:19:42.820" Score="0" Body="Having to do with Continuously Variable Transmissions" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:49:33.437" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:49:33.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" Score="0" Body="Having to do with the Intake Air Temperature sensor." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:59:26.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16115" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16116" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" Score="0" Body="Having to do with vehicle navigation systems." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:01:08.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16117" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16118" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" Score="0" Body="A wireless technology standard for exchanging data over short distances from fixed and mobile devices." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:12:09.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:42:09.547" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a '74 Volkswagen Super Beetle and I just replaced the headliner. I used the suggested glue and the roof clips but it will not stay up in the back and is beginning to come down in the front. Any suggestions on how to keep it up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9899" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T23:14:32.170" Title="1974 VW Bug Headliner" Tags="|vw|beetle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37236" CreationDate="2015-03-25T20:01:02.730" Score="7" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '99 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS that has a terrible vibration problem that occurs at all speeds, with it being very bad on the highway. During turns, it gets worse then better, as if both front wheels are bent and they go in and out of phase with each other. Everything seems to be okay suspension/hub wise.. but I tried running the car in gear on jackstands and the front wheels (driven wheels) are not round!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be bent wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I bite the bullet and buy new ones or find a company that will repair them? They're the OZ Racing wheels that I suppose were an option on the car back in '99, as seen on this car (not mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlnzZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BlnzZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9902" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T17:09:33.673" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T17:09:33.673" Title="Out of round wheel?" Tags="|tires|wheels|mitsubishi|damage|eclipse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2991" CreationDate="2015-03-25T20:18:27.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also called ''sway bar link''&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9903" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T22:18:20.740" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:18:20.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16978" CreationDate="2015-03-26T00:36:25.943" Score="2" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hearing news in our country that they might upgrade our fuel from EURO 2 gasoline to EURO 4. I am worried that it might damage the engine on my 95 corolla, which I still plan on keeping for at least a few more years. My car currently has 130,000km and still pretty much runs solid. I am just worried that the fuel upgrade might damage the engine. I am not concerned with the fuel efficiency as I am already expecting it to be less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:39:39.133" Title="Will a 95 4AFE engine work on Euro 4 gasoline?" Tags="|engine|toyota|fuel-system|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16100" CreationDate="2015-03-26T01:38:50.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In newer automatic cars, you won't be hurting the engine by switching from reverse to drive because the car will wait in neutral before actually going into gear. So if you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have this feature, you could potentially damage things connected to the drivetrain by putting so much force on the torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9891" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T01:38:50.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16085" CreationDate="2015-03-26T05:17:08.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Removed a certain point about the need for parked vehicles to use warning lights/brake lights as this point was admittedly not relevant to the answer, neither was it insightful.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In remark to answers by @paulster and nick c. I guess there's no accepted convention here wrt using the handbrake at Signals. The brake lights serve their most important feature in indicating that a car is decelerating. This serves as a very essential reactionary aid. This is to do with how our brain figures out the apparent change in the relative distances. It uses perspective and apparent magnification. Both of these are slower than a trained response to the brake lights. Having an immediate visual aid significantly improves reaction and let's the trailing cars know of the drivers &quot;intention&quot; as soon as he touches the brake pedals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At a signal however, the benefit from a safety point of view becomes a little subjective, and I'm not sure which side to take.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At long stops at a signal, I personally tend to engage the Handbrakes to prevent any kind of lapse on my part, where in I might get lazy and not hold down the brakes &lt;em&gt;(on horizontal surfaces)&lt;/em&gt;. I think it's well understood why that could potentially be dangerous , &lt;em&gt;eg- car bumps you from behind.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Addition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Between leaving it in neutral or drive, I see no major advantage or disadvantage between the two.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From a safety point of view I can throw two points which maybe trivial-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Leaving it in drive allows one to quickly accelerate should such a requirement arise.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the driver takes this time at the signal to move about and fetch something within the car, it maybe safer to engage neutral and the handbrakes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I personally know of a particular case (with a manual transmission) wherein the driver was holding down the clutch with the car in gear at a pedestrian crossing. The drivers foot ended up slipping of the clutch and ended up causing an accident. Anecdotal, and maybe irrelevant in case of an automatic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can't recommend any option conclusively, and personally may subjectively choose between the 2 -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Handbrake + Neutral   (long stops)&#xA;2. Drive + Foot on brake (stop and go situations) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T09:30:33.343" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T09:30:33.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:14:39.983" Score="3" ViewCount="3985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the engine/alternator are running and the battery voltage is 14V.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I now turn on the air conditioner, radio, headlights, seat warmer, cigarette lighter, should I now expect the voltage to drop and by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum acceptable voltage drop that could be expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T16:39:55.607" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T18:32:26.600" Title="Typical voltage drop when air con, radio, lights, etc. in use" Tags="|engine|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21960" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:48:37.950" Score="2" ViewCount="8574" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem is that sometimes when my Astra G tdi 1.7 2002 is idling (is not in gear) the RPM will go to 5000-6000 with out me stepping on the gas pedal. The engine accelerates on its own while idling. I tried reading online and found a post that this could be because of the Idle Air Control Valve. I told this to my mechanic and he told me that my car and diesel engines don't have Idle Air Control Valve. My question is first do diesel engines have an Idle Air Control Valve and where can I locate it on my Astra G?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image of the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNsFN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNsFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, the mechanic has no idea what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9915" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T23:45:30.553" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T08:07:45.800" Title="do diesel engines have Idle Air Control Valve?" Tags="|diesel|opel|astra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T19:23:57.777" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed on my Jeep TJ, and my mom's Prius that the screw plugging the oil pan is not at the absolute bottom of the oil pan, but offset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the small amount of oil that gets trapped due to this is very small, and negligible when compared to other oil trapped in the system, but it's something that's always bothered me a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T21:22:16.093" Title="Why is the oil pan plug not at the complete bottom of the system?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16130" CreationDate="2015-03-26T21:22:16.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason is that you don't want the oil pan plug to be the first part in the system that hits a bump, tall rock or road debris.  Oil pans are pretty durable: if they hit a bump, they'll likely dent.  A bolt can be easily knocked askew, off thread or ripped completely out of its hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that last one happen right in front of me: tragic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the ancillary benefit that if you offset the drain plug towards the rear of the pan, it will drain better when you put the front of the car on jack stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T21:22:16.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16135" CreationDate="2015-03-26T22:47:19.660" Score="2" ViewCount="45359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently (since the beginning of the winter), my car has been taking several attempts to start every time I use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several factors about the car have changed, so it's hard for me to tell what's really the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car's specs are: 1996 Toyota Avalon XLS, 110k mi, V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a &lt;strong&gt;video&lt;/strong&gt; of me trying to start the car: &lt;a href=&quot;https://vid.me/CXnZ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://vid.me/CXnZ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clacking sound in the beginning is the tape deck, I shut that off after my second attempt to start the car. After that, each click is me turning the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the &quot;BRAKE&quot; light turn off/on each time I turn the key. It's hard to hear the sounds from outside the car, but after each key turn there is a quiet electrical sounding &quot;click&quot; sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, when every light in the dash turns off except for the seat-belt and a yellow sensor light, that's when the car finally turned on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only use the car about once a week, and only for about 30 minutes at a time. I used to use it every day and this wasn't an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is newly (within the last 2 months) replaced with a Kirkland brand battery which matches the car (775 CCA). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This problem was an issue &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; I replaced the battery, but it's been progressively getting worse (takes more attempts to start each time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cleaned the cable terminals which attach to the battery with a mixture of baking soda and water when I replaced it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil hasn't been changed in a bit of time (since 100k mi), but it is at a good level (I've topped it off while the engine was warm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant levels are good as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car is stored in a heated underground garage (the temperature only gets about as low as 50 F/10 C in there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once I'm out and about, after a bit of the driving, the car starts with no problems after I shut it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I turn the key, all dash lights work and I can hear the fuel pump starting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start my car by immediately turning the key to start, should I be letting the fuel pump work first, or waiting a bit on standby (just having the key half-turned)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issue here is that the battery just isn't getting enough use for it to remain charged. Once I am driving, there aren't any issues starting and the battery seems to charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I only use the car once a week,  it seems that each time I get back to it any charge that it had after it's last use has dissipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways to mitigate this? Should I get a different battery which may hold charge longer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9918" LastEditorUserId="9918" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T01:00:25.107" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T18:36:41.397" Title="Car always takes several attempts to start, what's the problem?" Tags="|toyota|battery|starting|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T00:11:47.960" Score="0" ViewCount="6490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to locate the O2 sensor on my 1990 RWD 22R 2.4 Toyota pickup truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked all over underneath the car by the driver's side seat. There is no O2 sensor on top of the exhaust pipe, where it was said to exist. One person said that this model doesn't have one! Is that true? Or where should I look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9919" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T10:13:18.443" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T05:50:41.390" Title="Location of O2 sensor on 1990 Toyota pickup" Tags="|toyota|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16133" CreationDate="2015-03-27T01:05:24.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things I'd look at as the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and most likely is the solenoid on the starter is almost shot. The solenoid has a large copper washer which is pressed into the two posts (one from the battery connection and the other going to the starter motor). When this wears out, you'll get a clicking sound (almost a dead thud) as the Bendix is pushed into the flywheel, yet no power is supplied through to the starter motor itself. Once in a while after several tries, it can hit a &quot;good&quot; spot in that washer and allow it to have continuity so the starter has power. You can have this checked by taking your starter to a local parts store and have them bench test it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, and I'm not sure on your vehicle how it works, is if the relay to the starter has gone bad. Some vehicles have it located in the steering column and is actuated by turning the key (via a rod). You car could also be utilizing an electric relay, which is energized when the key is turned in the ignition to the start position. Either one of these situations would be a little bit more problematic to figure out. If it's done by a relay, you'd have to find the relay and change it out with a known good one (usually located under the hood of the car in the under hood fuse box portion). If the relay is a direct power version actuated by rod and a key turn, you'd need to find the wiring which is associated with this, pull the plug, then jump the correct two wires together to see if it would cause the starter to turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By no means would I consider the battery to be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T01:05:24.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16140" CreationDate="2015-03-27T09:09:17.647" Score="2" ViewCount="10858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Chev Cruze 2010. There was a heatup and I noticed thick creamy sludge overflowing from the coolant reservoir lid. Mechanic diagnosed issue with engine oil coolant and repaired it. Later he also changed the transmission oil coolant. After the repair, the car is not heating up anymore; however, I still get the thick oily sludge in the reservoir (please see picture). Mechanic says it will take some time before all the oil in the radiator is flushed out and that I will have to get the coolant reservoir cleaned after every week or so until all the oil inside is cleaned up. I am not sure and am doubtful whether the issue still exists? There is no coolant leakage into the engine oil as engine oil seems just normal. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9922" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T18:20:11.307" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:20:11.307" Title="oily sludge in coolant reservoir" Tags="|coolant|radiator|coolant-reservoir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16138" CreationDate="2015-03-27T09:51:08.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tick creamy sludge is caused by oil and coolant mixing - so you need to know the original cause of that mixing - i.e. how is the oil getting into the coolant in the first place. The most common causes of this are failures of headgaskets or oil coolers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestion that it will take some time for all the oil to be flushed out is rubbish, as any competent mechanic will have thoroughly flushed the system through before refilling it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest finding a new mechanic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T09:51:08.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2015-03-28T07:57:43.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new 15 plate fiesta ecoboost zetec and i bought it with 4 miles on it. I haven been told by Ford that the run in/ burn in procedure does not apply to this vehicle as it is made to adapt to any driving condition. Also i am covered for 3 services for 3 years and i dont need to change anything until my first service but they will do that :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9933" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T07:57:43.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6296" CreationDate="2015-03-28T10:13:25.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Renault Megane Berline 2006.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was caught in a traffic jam of about 1 hour and was a few miles from home, when I heard a click and the engine lost power and started shaking. I just drove to the side and waited an hour or so until the traffic jam was over. I went home and when I entered the coumpound, my father thought I bursted the silencer but we gathered it may be the spark plugs. Today morning we did the testing of each spark plug and coil and it was the cause. The thing I can say although I am a girl and know little about car, this was the way we did. We removed one by one the start plug and coil, put the engine on and when it still remain on even with 3 park plug on, we went and bought a new coil and replace the plugs and immediately running as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was great because I started no liking the car now i love it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps that little experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bye&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9935" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T10:13:25.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16174" CreationDate="2015-03-28T11:19:41.613" Score="4" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured my &quot;cigar socket / outlet&quot; with a multimeter. Instead of 12v it had 19v. Is this normal? Is it my voltage regulator, alternator, battery that has problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: &#xA;Peugeot 307, 2.0 XSI 2003&#xA;The 12v &quot;cigar socket / outlet&quot; is off when my key is turned off, and on when I turn it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information: &#xA;Battery is almost 1 month old. Mechanic replaced it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Voltage car off with key not inserted&#xA;Battery -  12v socket&#xA;16,67v     0v&#xA;&#xA;Voltage car off with key turned 2/3 steps&#xA;Battery -      12v socket&#xA;not tested     18,2v&#xA;&#xA;Voltage car on&#xA;Battery -  12v socket&#xA;20v        20v&#xA;&#xA;Voltage car, airco, headlights on&#xA;Battery  - 12v socket&#xA;20v        20v&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9936" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T01:00:41.953" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T17:15:53.113" Title="Battery high voltage" Tags="|electrical|power|power-outlet|multimeter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16199" CreationDate="2015-03-28T14:40:38.620" Score="3" ViewCount="67597" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/c4g_W9xNboQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/c4g_W9xNboQ&lt;/a&gt; video of it flickering.&#xA;I've tested the output voltage of the 12v socket, and it's around 20v! Question about that here; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16154/car-12v-socket-outlet-has-higher-voltage-19-volts-is-this-normal?noredirect=1#comment21954_16154&quot;&gt;Battery high voltage&lt;/a&gt; (multimeter was busted, volts are normal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I am in neutral, or geared my screen flickers. It should only turn itself on when I am in reverse. In reverse, the display turns on fine and I can see the rear camera view, but when not in reverse, it starts flickering randomly. &#xA;Any idea why this is happening? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9936" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T18:48:13.140" Title="Rear camera screen flickering" Tags="|camera|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2015-03-28T15:07:40.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caliper replacement does depend on the mechanical function, but for the life of the vehicle, guess that depends on where you live, pot holes, salt and sand beat up the calipers.  In New England and areas where winters are harsh, you will find 5-7 years and they will need replaced depending on the vehicle and its use.  In reducing the weight of the vehicle aluminum calipers are more popular and they do not last as long, generally because of the aluminum caliper and steel mounting components, the dissimilar metals do not perform well over time.  Also rear calipers in some vehicles have more intricate parking brake and piston subassemblies that are contributors to failure rates.  So making a blanket statement seems misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also today most rotors cannot be resurfaced, again to reduce weight and increase mileage there is just not enough material to turn them down to provide a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9937" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T15:07:40.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19826" CreationDate="2015-03-28T15:41:05.957" Score="2" ViewCount="2457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit the ditch the other day and got towed out.  There was no physical damage as far as I can tell, but whenever I indicated right, it would blink fast as if a bulb was burned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the front bulb, because it appeared to be burned out.  But the new bulb didn't work either.  Upon closer inspection, the old bulb's elements appeared to be undamaged, and the new bulb actually did still blink, but extremely dimly (and still fast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the tow rope accidentally pinch (but not break) a wire while getting towed?  Is it just a fluke with the new bulb and I should try another?  Fuse?  Any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2005 Dodge Grand Caravan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9938" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T15:50:53.590" Title="What's wrong if I replace a signal light bulb, but it still acts as if it's burnt out?" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|towing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T16:07:18.877" Score="0" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10 yr old fiat panda with 38k miles on the odometer. Manual Transmission. Within couple months I started getting all of the symptoms of the clutch slipping. The condition is worse in a higher gear.  I have only put 10K miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why has the clutch gone so quickly with only a total of 48K miles on the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9939" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T01:25:30.063" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T01:25:30.063" Title="All signs of clutch slipping but the car only has 48,000 miles. How can this be?" Tags="|clutch|wear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16178" CreationDate="2015-03-28T17:32:26.767" Score="4" ViewCount="21286" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was running without a thermostat for a few months after I put in new spark plugs.  The plugs are a bit fouled ( not horribly so ) and I was thinking about cleaning them.  I've seen suggestions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Spark-Plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;to use a wire brush and sand paper&lt;/a&gt;, but was wondering if just spraying them with carburetor cleaner and whipping them down would be sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T17:24:14.587" Title="How to Clean Lightly Fouled Spark Plugs" Tags="|sparkplugs|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T19:37:21.270" Score="4" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2001 Blazer 4.3lt 4 door 4 wheel drive. I was having a hard starting problem it would take several attempts to start before it would run. On a few occasions it would back fire through the intake manifold. Researching pointed to the fuel pressure regulator. Put fuel pressure gauge on key on engine off got 55 to 60 psi it would drop to 48 or so. Changed fuel regulator (inside intake manifold) Inside the manifold it was pretty carbonized except under the regulator so I thought this was most probably the problem. When everything was back together I had no fuel pressure. Even though I could hear the fuel pump with the key on. I thought since the pump was on the old side maybe I could hear it but it wasn't pumping. I dropped the tank and changed the pump and fuel filter. Put pressure gauge back on and no pressure (0psi). I can hear the relay click and the pump. What did I overlook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9940" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T16:37:40.810" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T03:06:01.400" Title="No fuel pressure after changing fuel regulator" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="71" CreationDate="2015-03-28T20:35:42.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very quick shot of a water displacement spray will do the trick. CRC  or WD40. Not much. If you use belt dressing, it will stick to you as it's sticky. Before doing anything, take a wooden dowel and, with the engine running, place the end of the dowel against your idler pulley, if so equipped, making sure not to get it unto moving parts. Put your ear to the other end of the dowel. If you hear a high pitched whine, change the idler bearing or assembly. If you hear any low pitch, listen to the water pump, then the power steering pump, then the AC pump. If none are whining, spray the belts very lightly. A belt will dry-rot and will slip. A small amount of water displacement fluid will quiet down your problem, but change your belts when you can. W.A.L. Chattanooga///&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9941" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:57:39.390" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:57:39.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="81028" CreationDate="2015-03-28T22:55:57.433" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Buick Century. The cigarette lighter is located within this tray as part of the dashboard at the bottom (below the radio). This tray pulls out and it has this stiff piece of plastic at the front that functions as a cover. The plastic cover has weakened for me and it broke off. I'm trying to find a replacement and on the back of the cover it says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;VT 2425&#xA;10254271&#xA;Retainer - 1/P Ashtray Door&#xA;ABS + PC 002&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been unsuccessful at googling and searching car part websites for this part. I was hoping someone could guide me a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mj&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4727" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T13:50:48.877" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T05:18:57.263" Title="how to find part number for slide-out tray cover that has cigarette lighter" Tags="|parts|buick|century|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16158" CreationDate="2015-03-29T04:03:23.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the clutch has been abused by a previous owner's bad habits, it's entirely possible for the clutch to be worn out and slipping. By releasing or engaging too slowly, I can imagine the wear material on the clutch going away sooner. If the vehicle was driven in stop-and-go traffic all the time that will contribute to earlier wear, too, unlike a highway driven vehicle that has seen relatively few shifts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T04:03:23.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T18:27:41.433" Score="2" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 93 Ford Taurus. There is a lot of oil in the radiator, but no water in the oil. The oil was close to 3 quarts low. I've never seen where there was oil in the water, but no water in the oil. Could it be a blown head gasket? When we purchased the car a while back it had a blown head gasket. We took the heads off, had them shaved, then replace the gaskets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9947" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T21:12:49.540" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T12:08:47.687" Title="1993 Ford Taurus 3.8" Tags="|ford|oil|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T21:15:58.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing the windshield fluid motor in my wife's car, and I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/kia/optima/climate_control/a-fs-c_pressure_switch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this sensor&lt;/a&gt; had broken in half.  Says it's an AC pressure switch, and looks like I could just unscrew it and replace.  Except for the fact that it has a seal around it, so I'm curious does this mean if I remove it all the refrigerant is going to escape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so how should I handle replacing this?  Is there a shutoff valve, or do you just let it go and get one of those recharge kits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9950" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T22:36:58.643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:46:54.207" Title="How to replace broken AC pressure switch Kia Optima 2006" Tags="|ac|kia|optima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16169" CreationDate="2015-03-29T22:46:54.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you remove this, you will lose all of your refrigerant. There is not shut off valve. The way it should be done is by a qualified A/C repair person. They will remove all of the refrigerant from the system (vacuum it out), replace the sensor, replace the drier, draw a vacuum on the system, then if no leaks, fill the system again with the proper amount of refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have the proper equipment to do this, you should leave it to the professional. By just popping the sensor out, you run the risk of getting burned from the decompressing refrigerant. The reason why you'd need to replace the drier is because once it is exposed to atmosphere, it should also be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not just a remove/replace operation if you want your A/C to operate correctly in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:46:54.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16158" CreationDate="2015-03-29T22:53:53.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two likely possibilities, and it could be both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abuse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As described in James' answer, with the right owner a clutch could be decimated with relatively low mileage. With mileage that low it would take some serious abuse to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low Quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch may have been built with low quality components. The Scion xA and xB of the mid 2000's used inferior pressure plate springs. As a result they could weaken quickly and clutch slipping became common even below 10k in some cases. A little Google searching suggests that the Fiat Panda &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have a similar issue. I drove my sister's xA like that for half a year careful to avoid slipping the clutch, but it was in no way ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustment could be an issue as well, but since most modern clutches are self-adjusting(it appears the Panda fits this category) I didn't add it as a possibility in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the mileage of the vehicle and a lack of driving history knowledge, it might be a good idea to look at a higher quality clutch for your replacement. A stage 1 aftermarket clutch kit from a reputable brand would prevent this problem in the future if the OEM parts are indeed prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:53:53.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16154" CreationDate="2015-03-30T08:51:21.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to the mechanic, and the voltage looked good at 14,4v +- when everything (car, airco, lights, radio) were on. Looks like my multimeter is busted. Need to buy a new 9v battery for my multimeter to test if that fixes the offset, or I'll try to calibrate my multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, always test with another multimeter if in doubt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9936" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T08:51:21.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T09:37:47.510" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone tell me what &quot;cars Petrol &amp;lt;1,4L Euro-1&quot; means? I really appreciate if anyone can tell me reliable sites to get information about the all the types of vehicle technology controls i.e fuel control, evaporative control, Exhausted control..etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T09:37:47.510" Title="Vehicle Technology Controls" Tags="|honda|toyota|hyundai|kia|emissions|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-04-02T18:11:13.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16167" CreationDate="2015-03-30T12:08:47.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 93 Ford 3.8 engine utilizes &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque-to-yield_fastener&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Torque-to-Yield&lt;/a&gt; head bolts. If you didn't replace the head bolts and torque/turn them correctly, you've most likely caused the same problem over you were trying to fix. Plus, if you don't do the sequence properly, you'll have issues again. Here is the installation process for the heads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Clean the cylinder head bolt hole threads with a tap. Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those entering coolant jackets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Position new head gasket(s) on the cylinder block using the dowels for alignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Position the cylinder head(s) on the block and install the new bolts hand tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Torque the head bolts in the proper sequence as follows:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Loosen each bolt one at a time in sequence 2-3 turns, then torque to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rotate each bolt in sequence an additional 90 degrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of what the torque sequence looks like on the head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jKeDJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Copied from Chilton&amp;#39;s Auto Repair Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; Chilton Auto Repair Manual 1993-1997 Pg 13-34)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T12:08:47.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16159" CreationDate="2015-03-30T12:24:26.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using carburetor cleaner should work just fine.&lt;/strong&gt; I wouldn't use a wire brush or sand paper as these are abrasive. Depending on how much force you'd be using, you could actually damage the business end of the spark plug and limit its life expectancy. There used to be a spark plug cleaner which worked like a sand blaster, using compressed air and fine media to clean the spark plug off. I believe these have fallen out of favor, but even so, would require the purchase of specialty equipment to accomplish what you want to do. Your only other option is to just replace the plugs, but it sounds as though they aren't very old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T12:24:26.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16157" CreationDate="2015-03-30T12:26:42.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check side marker/turn indicator bulbs. Many times a side bulb will stop working (check the good side to ensure you know where to look on the bad side) causing the same fast blinking which you see when a front or tail light has gone dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T12:26:42.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16183" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:35:17.330" Score="2" ViewCount="20378" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 Honda Accord came with a 115/70/14 donut spare tire.  I had to use it for the first time recently, and it is now totally dead and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked on Ebay and there are a few people selling 115/70/14 Accord donut tires.  But there are also a few people selling different sized Accord donut spares that they say will work on a 97 Accord.  Those are sized 135/80/15, 125/70/15, and 125/70/14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do I have to get a 115/70/14 tire, or will one of those other sized spares work as well?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T18:43:45.357" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T18:43:45.357" Title="Can I use a different size donut spare tire for my 97 Accord?" Tags="|honda|tires|accord|spare-tire|donut|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2015-03-30T20:57:10.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl; dr&lt;/strong&gt; You can run it, but there is a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need to double check to ensure the rotations per mile (RPM) are almost/nearly the same (if not exactly). If it's off by more than a few percentage, you are going to have a problem with your anti-lock brakes (ABS) throwing codes on you. If you run a mis-matched donut on the front, you will have issues with over-heating your transaxle due to the mismatch of tire sizes. This is due to the differential having to make up the difference in . This will provide extra wear and tear on the differential, especially if it has a posi-traction style differential in it (not sure if Honda even has one, but it is something to consider). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line - find one which is the same size. You'll be happy doing so and so will your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T20:57:10.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2015-03-30T21:48:53.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most donut spares are a smaller diameter than the original tire.  If the vehicle has a donut spare this is smaller in diameter then I wouldn't consider it to be a metric of consideration.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to retain that diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only relevant piece to this is, if you have a greater width of tire, will it fit in the compartment in your trunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T21:48:53.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16180" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:27:08.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a huge pile of information about tire sizing around the internet. I'll attempt to summarize its application here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires have 3 numbers, which work together to describe the tire's size. The first number is the section width, the second number is the sidewall ratio and the third number is the rim diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Section Width&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section width is the width of the tire in millimeters at the largest point. This is important when trying to fit a tire to a rim, but in your case the rim is already matched to the tire so we're good. The number does still matter for us because of what we're calculating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sidewall Aspect Ratio&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the distance from the rim to the tread. It is described as a percentage of the section width, so a 70% sidewall with a 130 section width will be taller than a 70% sidewall with a 110 section width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rim Diameter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most obvious of the numbers. It is the rim diameter in inches. Why is the section width in millimeters and the rim diameter in inches? My guess is the same reason many manufactured parts in America are dimensioned in inches, but sometimes they hang out alongside parts manufactured to metric dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can use these numbers to (roughly) calculate tire diameter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with a standard factory sized '97 Accord tire (yours may vary depending on trim, but it will probably have a similar outer diameter):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;185/65R15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;185 / 25.4 = 7.283&quot; (Metric to inch conversion) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.283 * 0.65 = 4.734 (Sidewall height as a percentage of section width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.734 * 2 = 9.468 (Double the radius to get diameter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.468 + 15 = &lt;strong&gt;24.468&lt;/strong&gt; (Sidewalls + rim = outer diameter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So following the same calculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;115/70/14 = 20.339&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;135/80/15 = 23.504&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;125/70/15 = 21.890&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;125/70/14 = 20.890&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like your other 3 options are between your original spare and your standard tire diameter. As long as they'll fit in the spare tire well any one of them would likely be an adequate spare as long as the bolt pattern matches. I would favor something as close to the standard tire as possible if you know it will fit the tire well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link at the Tire Rack&lt;/a&gt; for a more detailed explanation of tire sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a calculator for tire diameter &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csgnetwork.com/tiresizescalc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:27:08.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15973" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:18:51.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The camera's red/black cable is the power cable; the black wire goes to a ground (any metallic part of the chassis will do), and the red wire goes to a +12V that will be powered whenever you want to use the camera, so connecting it to the reverse lights, but you can also connect it to anything powered when you turn on the ignition if you don't mind it being active all the time (just don't connect it to an always-on +12V as it'll drain your battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RCA cable (with the yellow round tips) is just a standard video cable and should be connected to the monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really see what this orange wire is supposed to do and it can be safely omitted. It looks like some kind of grounding wire (should be connected to ground, a negative terminal or any metallic part of the chassis) to try and reduce interference, but you can first try without it and see if it works (given that both the monitor and the camera are on the same ground anyway, I'm pretty sure they'll take care of grounding the negative part of the video cable anyway so this orange wire is totally useless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the monitor, you can indeed use a cigarette plug to power it (and if you want you can also power both the camera and the monitor with the same plug), just make sure the cigarette lighter is powered off when you remove the key, otherwise you risk discharging your battery. If that's the case, you can look at the radio's wiring to find a +12V which is only powered when the key is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For running both devices from a single cigarette plug, just solder their two +12V power cables to the tip of the lighter plug, as for the grounds you can either solder them to the side contacts of the plug, or just don't bother and solder them to a nearby metallic part (the entire car's chassis is grounded anyway). There is no particular risk involved with these low-power devices, but be careful when doing this with more high-current devices like a compressor or multiple lights as they'll drain a lot more current and a single cigarette plug may not withstand the current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T16:18:51.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T17:58:49.400" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I depress the brake pedal on a 2000 Toyota Sienna, every time the pedal reaches near the halfway mark, there is a discernible click. As the vehicle approaches a stop and I feather the brakes, there is a soft squeal. What explains these phenomena?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9804" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T22:55:11.300" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T13:24:27.807" Title="Why does the brake on a 2000 Sienna click and squeak?" Tags="|toyota|brakes|sienna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16533" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:31:35.777" Score="3" ViewCount="5924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Corolla (mileage ~70K) that drives very well generally, except for one problem: The clutch has always been quite stiff since I purchased it a couple of years ago, and I think it's slowly getting worse (unless I'm getting weaker...). Otherwise the clutch works fine without the usual symptoms of wear.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's becoming quite annoying now that I have to drive around more for work, so I'm wondering if anything can be done about it save for replacing the whole clutch system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And actually, even if I fork out for a new one, how can I be sure it's not going to be equally stiff? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9968" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T22:52:46.160" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:43:17.950" Title="Stiff clutch on Toyota Corolla: can it be adjusted?" Tags="|toyota|clutch|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:42:54.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to tell you this, but more than likely the engine is dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am correct in assuming that the Kia Rio has aluminum heads, I'd go out on a limb and say that the heads are likely warped, and you are leaking oil into the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be an out of place gasket, but my guess is that it is either a crack somewhere in the water jacket or a warped head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, do an oil change. If the oil comes out looking like a frappuchino, you need to get the mechanic to fix it. It is likely his mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T18:42:54.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16159" CreationDate="2015-03-31T18:45:16.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My RX7 was fouling plugs for a long time while we were getting the mixture settings right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small bit of wire to pull any solids out of the gap, and spray the inside with carb cleaner. Wipe it down and let it dry off a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then go and get a windproof lighter or a butane torch, and force the flame into the gap. There will probably be some sputtering and smoke, but you want to get the stuff out anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, wipe the soot off, and it should work good as new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T18:45:16.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11631" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:08:09.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has points ignition, It may be a failed condenser. The sparking at the points creates interference, and your speaker wires could be inducting and amplifying the signals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4704" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:08:09.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16197" CreationDate="2015-04-01T12:56:43.513" Score="5" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Preamble&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of interpreting my BMW M5's ECU binary with the aid of some nifty scripting and rather informative forum posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I've found is that there are knock limit maps for each cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is somewhat expected since the car has 8 knock sensors, the thing that intrigues me is that each map is &lt;em&gt;slightly different&lt;/em&gt;. I would have expected to see 8 &lt;em&gt;identical&lt;/em&gt; maps, assuming that each cylinder endures identical conditions (limits are based on RPM and relative fill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand if there is a physical reason for this. There are  a few sources of inter-cylinder variation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;fuel rail pressure&lt;/em&gt;, though I don't expect a huge variation between individual fuel injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;intake air pressure&lt;/em&gt;, bearing in mind that this vehicle has individual throttle bodies for each cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Questions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it common to have individual maps for each knock sensor on ECU's? I'm curious to know how other manufacturers do this as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What inter-cylinder variations could be significant enough to warrant a unique map for each knock sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Knock maps &lt;sub&gt;(for the inquiring minds)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5P1A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Knock Map Montage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T19:02:05.817" Title="Is it common for ECU's to maintain individual limit maps for each knock sensor?" Tags="|bmw|electronic-control-module|knock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6723" CreationDate="2015-04-01T13:03:07.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the analog gauges work by sensing varying resistance by a float sensor which eventually results in thermal conversion or Voltage mapping to fuel levels. The accuracy suffers due to non-linearity of these float sensors.The methods mentioned by Nick &amp;amp; Mac are right here; but it gets very tedious if your demands of accuracy are nearly 1% of total volume or 1-2 litres and needs re-calibration every time the tank is taken out for servicing or every change of float sensor, which are practically common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reed sensors are better than the above, but fail to get you the accuracy required to detect the actual volume of fuel in Litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD readings will not help, because the source is same as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capacitive sensors with temperature compensation are the best way to get best possible accuracy in sensing Diesel levels; but they are pricey, as you look for mm of accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting the best accuracy readings, the software should use algorithms to detect the refill &amp;amp; theft patterns. There's once such system which has proven accuracy levels of +/- 3 litres in a truck tank of 360 L Diesel capacity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ormat.in/products/fleetor-fuel-monitoring-gps-vehicle-tracking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ormat.in/products/fleetor-fuel-monitoring-gps-vehicle-tracking/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9973" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:03:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16195" CreationDate="2015-04-01T16:41:43.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is quite common. I initially said that it isn't, but I was wrong. I had another look at my Subaru's mapping and saw that there are more ignition timing tables than I first thought. Here's a complete list of tables (note the greyed out ones):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fd7oG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that could warrant separate knock maps for each cylinder would include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;differences in ability to hold pressure (think of a leakdown test).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different heat profiles between the cylinders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inability of the fuel injectors to keep up with demand under Open Loop conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers of sports cars will have one table each that manages FLKC*, FBKC* and IAM* and will apply the safest correction value across all cylinders. In fact, only Cylinder #1 is actively monitored for knock and there is only one acoustic knock detector (a microphone basically) for all cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fine-learning knock control (long term stored values)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Feedback knock correction (immediate response to knock event. Normally under Open-loop)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ignition Advance Multiplier (the more this deviates from normal, the worse the state of your engine WRT knocking).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T07:57:44.867" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T07:57:44.867" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16155" CreationDate="2015-04-01T18:05:11.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so here is what was causing my screen to flicker. I took out my rear lights where I have connected the camera and saw that the reverse light was blown. I measured the the + and - leads and without any light bulb inserted into the reverse light slot, the + and - had something between 1 and 4 volts, multimeter is inaccurate by +- 2volts. This is of course not enough for the camera to fully turn on, but was enough for it to receive some noise and let the screen think the rear camera wanted to turn on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, put a new lightbulb in and the problem is gone. Tested if it definitely was the light bulb, and took it out again, and the screen started flickering again. Whenever I put in the lightbulb, there is no volts on the + and -, but whenever I take it out, there is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my problem is solved. Just had to replace the damaged light bulb &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9936" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:05:11.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T06:50:02.510" Score="1" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 5000km after my 105000km service my car started to jerk slightly under 3000 revs as if it wasn't getting any fuel. I had all the sensors replaced that the computers picked up as faults [O2 sensor, diesel heating 'gadget?' and the sensor just before the Catalytic convertor]. But it was still jerking with a strange noise to go with it. The computer picks up nothing more? The new mechanic cleaned out the air filter sensor and that worked perfectly....for about 50km then it started to jerk again starting small and eventually so bad the car cannot be driven. I must say it gets worse the longer I drive the car in the day, and at any revs[even 120km/hour, and is also intermittent i.e.: may not jerk at all for a couple of km then all of a sudden she will jerk badly at that speed]. When we are at the traffic light She idles perfectly though! &#xA;So now it starts getting expensive if you are just guessing and taking your engine apart or replacing injectors just to see if it may be that. The VW mechanic said he has no idea what is wrong and said it may need a software update...would that work if no-one can tell me what is wrong with her?&#xA;Please help my Girl.;-) &#xA;[Thanks Sonya]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9978" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:45:39.280" Title="Polo 1,6 TDi 2010 Jerking and getting gradually worse" Tags="|noise|sensor|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T11:53:47.580" Score="6" ViewCount="12971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to do a cooling system flush and after some reading and watching some YouTube videos I noticed that people take different approaches. So I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand that after you have drained the cooling system and filled it up with distilled water you are supposed to turn the car on letting the engine reach normal operation temperature to allow for the thermostat to open (in addition to turning the heat on so that the water also flows through the heater core). But I have also come across some people that suggest removing the thermostat. Is it necessary to remove the thermostat since it's going to open when engine reaches temperature? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Haynes Repair Manual for my Nissan Maxima 2002 states to remove the two engine drain bolts on each side after draining the radiator. In case I am not able to locate these two bolts,  Is that a strictly necessary step since hopefully as water runs through the system the engine block coolant should be pushed out by the water eventually correct?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the videos I watched, the process of flushing is suggested to be repeated until clear distilled water comes out. I noticed that they put the radiator cap back on after each flush. I am going to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A6AS6LY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yellow Spill Free Funnel&lt;/a&gt; from Lisle for this project. Can I just leave the funnel in the radiator at all times while doing this process and keep adding water until it comes out clean and this way I do not have to hustle with closing radiator cap, then waiting for it to cool down each time?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have two gallons of 50/50 mix to perform the refill. Will these 2 gallons fill the overflow reservoir tank as well if I pour them through the radiator cap? Or do I have to fill the overflow tank separately?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9826" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T23:51:07.827" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T23:51:07.827" Title="Cooling system flush procedure questions" Tags="|cooling-system|maxima|thermostat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T13:06:30.937" Score="2" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Honda accord 2005 model v6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes while driving and I get to slow down or when going up a hill my car hesitates for a while ( small jerk ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean is that, when I remove my leg from the gas pedal maybe on a hill or when I slow down and I want to accelerate again, it goes a little bit back and forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happens when am on a hill or when I slow down, every other time it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9983" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T18:41:20.647" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T21:01:49.653" Title="Car Hesitate Sometimes While Driving" Tags="|honda|accord|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:38:43.353" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace shocks for my 2007 Ford Ranger. Is this something that can be done with little skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9984" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T17:54:44.407" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T18:01:38.487" Title="How difficult is it to change the shocks on my 2007 Ford Ranger 2WD" Tags="|ford|shock-absorber|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16204" CreationDate="2015-04-02T17:12:20.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like deceleration fuel cutoff, which is a design feature.  I'm having trouble finding a good link to describe it right now, but the idea is that when you take your foot off the gas pedal, the fuel supply to the engine is cut off completely.  You may feel a slight jerk since the engine goes from supplying a small amount of acceleration to none.  When you begin accelerating again, you feel another jerk as the engine starts to provide power.  It's normal, even if it's slightly annoying, and it improves fuel economy slightly.  My 2006 Civic does the same thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's more noticeable if you have a manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T17:12:20.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16205" CreationDate="2015-04-02T18:01:38.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not difficult at all and can be done with basic tools. There will be one or two bolts on each end. Just take them off and replace with the new ones. It may help to take the tires off but may not be necessary. You will need to lift it up most likely depending on how much clearance is under the vehicle, it will make it easier if you lift it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T18:01:38.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16222" CreationDate="2015-04-02T18:59:08.903" Score="0" ViewCount="9975" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 95 Honda civic ex, the check engine light has been on for a while, so I wanted to check what for. I looked up where to find the OBD port, and found it under the glovebox. It looked somewhat like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.instructables.com/FSX/9QXV/F6S8S0A5/FSX9QXVF6S8S0A5.LARGE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cdn.instructables.com/FSX/9QXV/F6S8S0A5/FSX9QXVF6S8S0A5.LARGE.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except they were both plugged into eachother, and plugged into another port. I tried shorting the OBD port and turned the car keys until the check engine light came on, but it didn't flash or anything like it should have. Checked fuses and everything, nothing was wrong. No clue what it could be, thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:57:25.327" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T17:47:48.933" Title="95 Honda civic ex, OBD port not giving check engine light codes" Tags="|honda|civic|cel|obd-i|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T20:27:15.990" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My clutch slave cylinder was replaced today but my brake fluid warning light came on for a second on two bends.  Is this more likely an electrical fault? I will take it back to the garage nect week.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9986" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T01:15:34.043" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:32:50.600" Title="2001 Fiat punto: slave cylinder repaired brake warning light" Tags="|clutch|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2015-04-02T23:02:02.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, what you have is a bad o-ring on the suction side of the pump. This allows the pump to suck air when the engine is on. Honda has a updated o-ring for about $1.00 this is easy to change and will keep the reservoir from foaming up and spewing p/s fluid out from the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9987" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T23:02:02.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T03:36:14.203" Score="2" ViewCount="3824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford escape and it kept shutting off when I would leave it running with the Ac for a while. Later on the time my battery light turned on so I figured I needed to charge my battery so I took it over to O'Rileys to get it checked they said &quot;the battery was no good&quot; so I had no choice but to buy a new one. I replaced it and installed my new battery for the same issue to still be there. My battery light is still ON. When I unplugged the positive charge off the battery My truck turns completely off.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9988" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T10:08:31.860" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T00:20:17.730" Title="2003 Ford Escape battery and alternators problems" Tags="|ford|battery|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8510" CreationDate="2015-04-03T07:04:08.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some remote locking have rolling codes and if you operate the remote fob enough times out of range of the car it will lose sync with the on board ecu. It then needs to be synchronized again. Simply the code recognition goes out of timing between remote fob and vehicle. You can start to get difficulty opening or locking or both. Sometimes self locking needs re-synchronizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9990" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T10:39:36.050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T10:39:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12052" CreationDate="2015-04-03T10:06:46.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing will be damaged if you run out of diesel, but the injector pumps don't work if there's even the smallest amount of air in them. Therefor it will be necessary to bleed the air completely from the fuel lines and injector pumps before the engine will start and run properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding junk in the bottom of the tank getting into the system, that's what the fuel filter is for. There's usually a cheaper pre filter that will catch all the junk. If it's clogged, clean or replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9991" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T10:06:46.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16212" CreationDate="2015-04-03T10:38:00.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely suggest your alternator is bad. As was suggested in the comments, you can check the alternator itself at the battery. What you'd be looking for in this case is what the voltage is doing. Put the multimeter leads on the battery while it's running to check the voltage. If the alternator is bad, you'll see the voltage slowly tick down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a 4-cylinder engine, there is a trick to replacing the alternator without taking the passenger side wheel off and removing a ton of stuff (as suggested in most directions I've read).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTUAr.png&quot; alt=&quot;From Rockauto.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two circled items are captured fasteners which will slide as the bolt is tightened, clamping the alternator in place onto the mounting bracket. Once you get the basic stuff done to pull the alternator, you'll have the two bolts which go through the alternator and attach to these fasteners loose as well. First, don't take these two bolts out. Loosen them so the head is about 1/4&amp;quot; to 1/2&amp;quot; off of the alternator body. Next, use a pry bar to push the head of the bolt back into the body of the alternator (leaving it without a gap). This pushes the captured fastener back and allows the clamping force to be relieved. Next remove the upper bolt. As long as you have everything else disconnected, you should now be able to &amp;quot;clock&amp;quot; the alternator clockwise, which will allow the bottom bolt to pop out of the slot in the bracket and then you can slide the alternator out of its nestled home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem lies with the intake manifold. There is no way to swing the alternator out of the way in order to remove it, you must turn the alternator body so the bottom bolt will be clear the mounting bracket. I don't believe there is enough room between the body and the alternator to pull the bottom bolt out, so this is why the mounting bracket is slotted in the first place. If you don't push the captured fasteners back far enough, you'll get so frustrated with the alternator you'll probably want to shoot the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The V6 version looks much more straight forward to remove, though I've not done it myself. There appears to be three bolts holding it in, which should be fairly easily accessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T10:38:00.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:01:36.503" Score="1" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car starts normaly 90% of the time. Sometimes when you turn the ignition it just clicks. If I switch it off and turn it again it starts. Sometimes it happens two of three times but then is starts normal. I've even tried ten times and every time it starts normal. Could it be the soleniod or what? Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9992" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T15:38:00.947" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T07:13:13.723" Title="Starting issue on a Fiat Uno Fire 1100" Tags="|starting|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:24:53.343" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the early/mid 2000s, my mother owned a manual transmission Ford Contour, and I got to drive it a couple of times in my early teens. Both she and I remember the clutch pedal being in the middle (BRAKE/CLUTCH/GAS going from left to right). Today I got into a discussion with my father and it has almost become a battle to the death, as he is 100% certain that the above is impossible, and I am 100% certain that although this doesn't seem to be standard, what both I and my mother recall is correct. I've looked around the web for pictures/manuals, but have found no proof. &#xA;Can someone please provide me with evidence proving/disproving the clutch on a 1998 Contour being in the middle? (my sanity and honor depends on it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-THANK YOU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9993" LastEditorUserId="1321" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T20:35:17.977" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T20:35:17.977" Title="Where is the clutch pedal located on a manual 1998 Ford Contour?" Tags="|cdw27|contour|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5802" CreationDate="2015-04-03T22:41:49.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 intrepid would just click click click. jump it, it would fire right up. autozone alt/battery are good. took off all negative cables and cleaned them tighten them all backdown and the car fired right up..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T22:41:49.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16225" CreationDate="2015-04-03T23:02:51.057" Score="3" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in the continuing saga of my 81 Suzuki GL450L I have been making continuing improvements to the electrical. The coils as previously found were definitely an issue,  but possibly not 'the' issue.  While installing LED turn signals and relay everything went fine.. then a few minutes later I was totally without power. Not even the new low voltage signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I traced it all the way back to the main fuse.. when I wiggled it just right it let a little juice through, enough for the signals but not to turn her over. The fuse element  wasn't visible - the glass was cracked slightly and a bit smoked up. I bypassed with a bit of wire and things looked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see a failure in the coils blow a fuse but this partiality failed behavior has me extra cautious... is there anything else I should check? I already covered the various sockets etc all looking for signs of heat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T14:22:02.597" Title="Partially blowing a motorcycle main fuse?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T23:28:21.973" Score="4" ViewCount="9584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Honda Accord 3.0  Went to turn on wipers ( twice)... they tried to turn on but was frozen to windshield. I freed the wipers and scraped the ice off but then wipers don't even try to come on. It chicks at under hood fuse box. Power is at wiper motor. The garage replaced the switch, told me wipers turned on twice and quit.They say I have juice to the switch that I need a multi plex control box ( Underhood fuse box ) any suggestions or ideas ? Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9998" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T02:34:32.780" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T21:41:41.930" Title="where is the 2003 Wiper Relay on a 2003 honda accord?" Tags="|honda|accord|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-04T01:25:57.417" Score="1" ViewCount="14905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 honda civic ex (manual), and it smokes really bad from the exhaust. It's thick white smoke that lingers, and it also burns oil, but when checking the oil, it is not clouded up or milky or anything. I heard white smoke was coolant burning, and usually when oil burns it's darker, but the person I bought it from said he thinks it has bad piston rings, but I was wondering what anybody else thinks it could be. It also has a bad IACV, and it switches up and down a lot while idling, not sure if that has any effect. I will be doing a compression test soon, along with replacing the piston rings, and head gasket replacement. But I would like to know if there are any other diagnostic tests I can do, or if it could be anything else. Any help or comments appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:01.857" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T06:48:01.510" Title="95 honda civic ex, smoking heavily from exhaust" Tags="|honda|civic|manual-transmission|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16209" CreationDate="2015-04-04T01:26:27.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHwrh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been reported on, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the SCS Service Connector to Service Check Connector as shown. (The 2P Service Check Connector is located under the dash on the passenger side of the car.) Turn the Ignition Switch on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Note the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): The MIL indicates a code by the length and number of blinks. The MIL can indicate multiple problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks. Codes 10 through 43 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of short blinks equals the second digit. Sometimes the first blink is difficult to see; always count the blinks twice to verify the code.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T01:26:27.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16221" CreationDate="2015-04-04T02:33:41.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's white smoke, you can pretty much be guaranteed it is burning coolant. If you smell it and it has that sweet smell to it, be assured that's what it is. Do the compression test, but I doubt its the rings. Like was said in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White smoke = coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue smoke = oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black smoke = incomplete combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IAC will have nothing to do with whether it's burning oil/coolant or not, but will need to be replaced or most likely cleaned before you put it back together from the head gasket job. While you are replacing the head gasket, ensure you have the head checked to ensure it isn't warped. Also, coolant can leak into a cylinder and burn without it ever getting to the oil. Oil can also get into the coolant without showing traces of coolant in the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the spark plugs as well. When you are burning coolant, you'll find one (or more) of them will be a lot cleaner than the rest of them. When you find the clean one, you'll know which cylinder is getting the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T02:33:41.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-04T03:08:25.417" Score="5" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my brake pads replaced at about 100k miles. I was hearing a noise that I thought was a bearing, and the mechanic came to the same conclusion, so I also had the bearing replaced. I drove the vehicle subsequently to work and back- noise completely gone. Driving to work the day after that, I experienced a loud droning noise that increased with wheel speed. Since my original mechanic was unavailable, I took it to another shop, where they told me that the new bearing was bad. Since it had less than 50 miles on it, I was able to get it replaced under warranty. Noise gone again. Within 100 miles of driving, I noticed another noise that sounds like it's originating from the same area (though it's different from either of the first two noises). I haven't gotten as far as testing it yet to see if there are any additional symptoms that suggest a bearing (turning the wheel doesn't seem to affect the noise, but it didn't on the first two either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that a faulty installation caused a bearing failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that another un-diagnosed issue is contributing to any bearing problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could something else be causing noise similar to a wheel bearing that was incidentally corrected while installing the new bearing (something loose, like wheel studs)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9934" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T14:08:05.830" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:27:59.893" Title="Replacing hub bearing repeatedly - 2007 Jetta" Tags="|vw|jetta|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16219" CreationDate="2015-04-04T14:22:02.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is standard in electrical work to consider one blown fuse an anomaly not worth investigating. However, if the replaced fuse blows, then investigate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you should still do basic electrical inspections and repair anything questionable. In this case, maybe check connections and lead conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: never, ever bypass a fuse. Not even for testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6600" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T14:22:02.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16227" CreationDate="2015-04-04T16:34:00.957" Score="9" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that many windows have this kind of sun limiter at the edges and wondered what exactly they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNeXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T15:00:09.433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T15:00:09.433" Title="What are the black dots that are at some windows edges?" Tags="|window|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16226" CreationDate="2015-04-04T16:41:07.823" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The black dots blend the border into the glass A: Windshield glass&#xA;  contains a black enamel band (called the frit) around the periphery&#xA;  that is baked into the glass. This black band includes a border of&#xA;  dots. See figure. The band has an etched surface to enable adhesive to&#xA;  bond to the glass, says a sales manager at Able Auto Glass. When car&#xA;  manufacturers install the windshield, they bond the windshield to the&#xA;  vehicle with adhesive placed on the etched part of the black enamel&#xA;  glass area (inside surface). The outside of the enamel band shades the&#xA;  adhesive from the Sun and protects it from ultraviolet radiation. The&#xA;  band also serves a cosmetic purpose by covering up the adhesive and&#xA;  gives the windshield edge &quot;a more finished look.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthisthing/comments/1xsoea/what_are_these_black_dots_on_the_edge_of_panes_of/&quot;&gt;http://www.reddit.com/r/whatisthisthing/comments/1xsoea/what_are_these_black_dots_on_the_edge_of_panes_of/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T16:41:07.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16226" CreationDate="2015-04-04T16:47:20.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it helps the adhesive bond to the glass, protects the glue from heat and sun exposure, and provides shade to passangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4546" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T16:47:20.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-04-04T21:38:07.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4T65E transmission features a &quot;forward&quot; clutch that is engaged in 1st gear forward only. Once it shifts into 2nd, this clutch is released. It is only applied in 1st. The inner piston seal gets worn or the piston area gets worn where the seal rides. What is happening is once you slow down and stop, the line pressure which is at minimum because the throttle isn't touched, fails to pressurize the clutch piston completely to engage the forward clutch plates. When you &quot;tip in&quot; or hit the throttle to take off, the line pressure jumps and builds enough pressure to apply the piston, thereby engaging the forward clutch. This is why the transmission hesitates or bumps into 1st gear on takeoff when hot. The complete remedy is to pull the transmission and do a total overhaul, replacing the parts that are worn in the forward clutch housing and a new improved inner piston seal. The other remedy is to manually downshift into 1st gear by using the transmission selector lever when coming to a stop. When you select low range with the shifter lever, the line pressure is raised from about 100psi to about 175psi which helps engage the forward clutch piston and overcomes the pressure leak on the inner piston seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it also is possible that the EPC or (PCS) solenoid before mentioned can also cause this problem as the EPC solenoid sticks and doesn't regulate the line pressure to about 100psi when idling in drive. This can be verified by using a transmission pressure gauge and driving down the road while watching line pressure. If the line pressure is accurate, then the inner piston seal is the problem and not the EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this forward clutch in the 4T65E is the same exact clutch that is used in the 440T4 transmission that was used for years without this problem. However with the 440T4 transmission, the forward clutch remained engaged in all &quot;forward&quot; ranges so this never developed into a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10002" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T21:38:07.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16220" CreationDate="2015-04-04T21:43:03.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell you exactly which one it is, but the car itself will tell you (if it exists). Here is what the under hood fuse box looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7dAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2003 Accord Under Hood Fuse Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is located on the right-hand side of the car (looking from the front) right next to the strut tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see on the inside of the lid of the fuse box that there is a diagram which tells you what is for what. The relays are the black and green larger pieces. The colorful ones with numbers on top are fuses. You may want to check these as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the lid off of the box, squeeze the four tabs at the same time and lift up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T09:45:25.360" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T09:45:25.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16217" CreationDate="2015-04-04T22:27:52.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a copy of the owners manual at  &lt;a href=&quot;http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/ford/1998-ford-contour-owners-manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/ford/1998-ford-contour-owners-manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't explicitly mention the location of the pedals (except for an unlabeled diagram on page 96). It seems extremely unlikely that Ford would have arranged the pedals differently from every other car on the road, and even less likely that they would do so and then not even mention it in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T22:27:52.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16217" CreationDate="2015-04-04T22:45:30.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beliefs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always amazing how sure humans are about facts that are 100% false, even when they have direct hands-on experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a well known psychological phenomena that when more than one person believes the same thing, and interacts with others who share that same erroneous belief, that it increases the perceived certainty of that false claim by all members of the group.  Before long, they all experience &quot;100% certainty&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The clutch on the 1998 Ford Contour is on the left, the brake in the middle, and the gas on the right.  I own one with over 150K miles.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the manual, on page 96, shows a photo of the pedals, but it is not very clear either way, likely because it is a known standard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/231700/Ford-1998-Contour.html?page=96&amp;amp;term=clutch&amp;amp;selected=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T20:58:37.747" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T20:58:37.747" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2015-04-05T04:29:29.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the fronts brakes this morning, and I followed some great instructions to do this. One step was to disconnect the ground from the battery. Cool, I do that and shut the hatch. I finish the brakes and now I can't open the hatch, nor can I reconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here was my solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hook up jumper cables from my wife's car as if I were going to start my car, and just open the hatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine you might have to race the engine of the 'donor' car if Prius battery was way dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10007" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T04:29:29.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16240" CreationDate="2015-04-05T12:06:18.240" Score="2" ViewCount="3337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6-speed 2012 135i, and whenever I idle in neutral, the car vibrates and makes a noise that I can only describe as sort of a faint grinding sound (it doesn't actually sound as bad as that description probably makes it seem, though). If I depress the clutch, the noise and vibration go away completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car drives fine, and doesn't make any unusual noises or vibrations when moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested to hear any opinions before I take it in. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10009" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T17:28:24.227" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T20:56:34.627" Title="Rough idle in neutral" Tags="|transmission|bmw|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16239" CreationDate="2015-04-05T18:01:32.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when I hear what you are describing, I put the issue at the front end of the transmission, either with the front bearing or the carrier bearing supporting the input portion of the transmission. Here is my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description places the noise/vibration when the transmission is engaged in neutral, which means the clutch is engaged with the input shaft spinning, but no real load being applied to the shaft or internal bearings supporting the shaft. A bearing will tend to make the most noise when running that way. When you depress the clutch pedal, the transmission is not being spun by the engine, so the noise would stop at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description would preclude the throw-out bearing, because when it is not engaging the clutch fingers, it's not being turned at all. It can only make noise when being used to disengage the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until they get really bad, transmission bearings which may be going out don't make a lot of noise when there is a load on them. I believe the reason is because when there is no load but are spinning, they will &lt;em&gt;rattle&lt;/em&gt; (best term I can use to describe it) in their races. This would account for the vibration and the noise. When a load is applied to the bearing, the slack is taken up and the rattle goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read online, the MT6 in the 135i is a pretty stout transmission, being able to withstand a lot of abuse (to the tune of 600+ rear-wheel horsepower). That being said, if you bought this vehicle used, you don't know how it was used (or abused) by the original owner. It could be that it had a bad bearing from the factory. I know with BMW's reputation, that doesn't happen very often, but it is just a mechanical item which wears out over time and is put together with human hands. Anything is possible and can happen. If you are the original owner of the car, you may have some recourse with BMWNA. I guess this also depends on how many miles are on the vehicle in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to the shop, don't give them your diagnosis as to what may be going on. Let them figure it out. If you do give them your diagnosis, it may cause them to have preconceived notions of what is wrong and bias them in their diagnosis. What I have described is a high dollar fix, so by not giving them any information like what I've stated here, they won't have $$ running through their minds. If you don't get a satisfactory diagnosis, there is nothing saying you cannot take it to another shop for a 2nd opinion. Also, there is nothing saying you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to take it to the BMW dealership, but I would take it to someone who is knowledgeable with BMW's, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T18:01:32.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3353" CreationDate="2015-04-05T23:40:15.977" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading what people did to their cars where clear coat was coming off, I used a good wax on mine.  It will seal it for awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10013" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:17:57.413" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:17:57.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:05:05.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle sits for more then 6-month then the petrol is out of date.  Since there is a new way to make petrol it will have a best date of approximately 6-9 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an easy way to see this.  Take a small glass and poor in some petrol 2dl, and wait for 5min.  If you see petrol in 2 layers then the petrol is bad and your motor wont start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:17:53.660" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:17:53.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:44:24.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had same key error message on my 56 plate s40, so opened the key flap with the key itself and sprayed inside the hole with wd40! Few months ago now and no further problems. Fingers crossed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10017" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:44:24.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:30:22.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem. I put my amp meter in between the positive lead and the positive terminal of the battery. It should draw 1/4 amp at rest. If it doesn't leave the amp meter inline as is and start pulling fuses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My case was two fold , the power amp to the radio which is located under the rear seat. That dropped it down 8 amps or so. Still too high.  I then began to troubleshoot the rear door switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I found if I just locked the truck by the key the alarm system would still&#xA;draw too much current. But by locking the system by the truck key switch, the problem fixed it self.  yea  . I figured this out after my wife decided to tell me this. I love to bang my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:18:00.363" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:18:00.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:53:01.960" Score="3" ViewCount="2075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Transit (2005 2.0 diesel) which is unpleasantly noisy to drive in compared with my Ford Focus (2003 1.8 petrol). I want to install sound proofing in the van, but I am wondering if this will get it anywhere near as quiet as in the Focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the Transit simply does not have soundproofing foam or vinyl in places equivalent to the Focus, then I can install it and be happy with the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the engine in the Focus has, for example, an engine mount designed to reduce sound in the cabin, then clearly I cannot hope to match it in the Transit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, will adding foam and/or mass-laden-vinyl to the Transit get the noise levels down to roughly the same as the Focus? Or is there a major structural aspect which I cannot hope to overcome? (Aside from the shape of them which is obviously different - not that I think that would make much difference?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10020" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T00:14:38.987" Title="Why would engine noise in cabin be much worse in one vehicle compared to another?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:57:12.340" Score="0" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used blue devil head gasket sealer and so far have a good result. I am currently driving the vehicle with just water and the sealer in system. It's running cool and it's not using any water. My question is, does the sealer continue working or is it only active for the first 50 minute idle procedure (i know it is attracted to the hot spot in the system)?  Does the sealer become inactive after it's a initial use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10022" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:28:27.453" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:37:21.360" Title="blue devil head gasket sealer" Tags="|chrysler|head-gasket|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16839" CreationDate="2015-04-06T14:58:02.717" Score="6" ViewCount="5764" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have recently acquired (for free) a circa 1973 Speedaire 20 gallon compressor with no history. After a short while of use the check valve failed and when I removed it I noticed it and the air manifold it was threaded into was all gunked up with oil. It actually wasn't that bad given the 40 years of age, but enough to destroy the plunger in the check valve and make things in there a bit messy.  It is my understanding that the piston rings were letting some oil by, leading to the build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since started cleaning out the gunk, ordered a new check valve, drained the oil, and removed the head from the compressor. Everything was in surprisingly good shape except for some matching oil gunk in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is what I noticed:&lt;/strong&gt; As I rotate the flywheel and the piston falls, I notice a small film of oil left on the cylinder walls dripping down.  The cylinder walls &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; fine by eye but I don't have any real measurement equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And my question is:&lt;/strong&gt; Is this amount of oil normal for piston air compressors? Is it normal for any piston / ring combo to leave that much oil behind on the down stroke? I've never personally had the head off of an automotive engine but I can't imagine those rings letting visible quantities of oil past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The reason for my question is:&lt;/strong&gt; I'll most likely purchase a rebuild kit anyway, but I'd like to know if the gunk I see is small amounts over 40 years (if this is normal), or the same amount over lesser time since the rings or whatever have gone bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus question&lt;/strong&gt;: Is there a standard way to test piston rings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10019" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T09:36:38.977" Title="Old Air Compressor Rebuild (and general piston engines) - Oil On Cylinder Walls?" Tags="|engine|tools|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16248" CreationDate="2015-04-06T16:07:04.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the noise level comparable to the one on new Ford Transit?  Extra torque from the diesel could have torn the motor mounts.  I would visually inspect them to see if they need to be replaced or even upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="807" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T16:07:04.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T17:37:44.503" Score="3" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got an idea of how fix a broken receiver for remote key unlocking on a 2007 nissan x-trail? both keys stopped working at exactly the same time - I've tried re-pairing (succesfully activated pairing on ignition, no effect on keys) and using a key in door unlocks all doors at same time, so interlocking is still working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10024" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T23:57:42.040" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T11:50:55.560" Title="X-Trail replacement remote key unlocking receiver" Tags="|nissan|ignition-key|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17448" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:07:48.373" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother-in-law has just retired and given us her old Pontiac Sunfire 1996. It's been little used and generally well maintained, except for the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both front fenders have a small patch of about one square inch that looks like it has been heavily damaged by rust, and the part of the rear right fender that's just under the gas tank door is rust-damaged over about one square foot — my wife managed to make a hole accidentally by putting her finger on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very much doubt that we'll this car for more than a couple years, and that we'll be able to sell it for anything but scrap when we get rid of it. Therefore, it's not very tempting to invest money in fixing the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any consequences, other than aesthetic, in not taking care of this? If the answer is yes, would there be a relatively way of avoiding those consequences, again considering that aethetics is not a major concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10026" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T08:34:50.460" Title="Consequences of not fixing rusted body parts" Tags="|pontiac|rust|body-work|used|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T22:17:03.630" Score="3" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asked this on a message board, no luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got an odd one for you here. My mom's Cobalt started having the notorious ticking around 100k. Went and installed a new timing chain tensioner. I misread the directions and thought I had to bang on the tensioner with a screwdriver to release it, I wailed on it good enough that I put a really bad gouge in the tensioner body (it was late, I was tired...  ) So I went and ordered another tensioner... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward a few days. I'm trying to pull the newly installed/screwed up tensioner out. I'm cranking away on it, and it's slowly turning out until it just... spins without coming out at all (edit: I think it's pertinent to note that it doesn't spin freely, exactly. It's tough. I'm using a 24&quot; 1/2 drive flex ratchet with a 1 1/4&quot; socket and it takes a little bit of elbow grease to turn it, but it's not like you're trying to break it loose or anything. Just takes some force)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not a dummy. I was an aircraft mechanic for 6 years and I'm currently an industrial air compressor mechanic. I know my way around tools and metals and fasteners and threading, etc. But this one just has me absolutely stumped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are about 4 1/2 threads showing, the O-ring is freely moving. I've tried getting a screwdriver in there to try to put some force against it while I turn it. Nothing. I've beat the hell out of it. It was easy going in, I threaded it in by hand and tightened it with a ratchet and it was fine. There is no sign of galding or any other anomaly with the threads. It just spins, and spins, and will not come out. It's stuck in there. Even with a 48&quot; crowbar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't even thread back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experiences or ideas with this one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10027" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T22:17:03.630" Title="2.2 ecotec on 2008 Cobalt - Timing chain tensioner will not come out of head" Tags="|cobalt|ecotec|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T00:07:47.380" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat with the 4.6L V8 Engine. Sometimes while I have my trailer hooked up I get a tremendous howling while braking. Almost so loud you can't hear anything else in the cab. The trailer I tow is about 350 lbs plus approximately 900 lbs of cargo. So the total weight is around 1250 lbs, well below the capacity of this truck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This howling has only happened while towing. It isn't consistent and I can't reproduce it. What could cause this? I have a strong shudder while on the brakes, but I think that is just because of the left front rotor being warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T19:25:10.390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:33:31.437" Title="2001 Ford F150 howling when braking with trailer" Tags="|brakes|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16248" CreationDate="2015-04-07T00:14:38.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main things which are probably causing you the noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is the engine noise. Diesels can put out an extensive amount of noise. This radiates into the cab of the vehicle. You basically have a big box on wheels which focuses and reverberates the sound around inside causing it to amplify somewhat. This makes for a little more noise than what you'd think, but is the nature of the beast. The best way (and only way I can think of without major surgery) is to add the floor mat. Something like Dynamat is probably a good way to go, but there are other selections on the market as well. The rubber will really help deaden the noise, but I doubt it would get rid of it completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, road noise from the tires can cause a lot of noise in the cabin. If, for instance, you run lite-truck (LT) tires on the Transit, you can expect a bit more noise from them than passenger tires. Road noise can also be from certain brands/models of tires. Some tires are just noisy. The tread depth can also be a factor. As the tread gets worn down, they will make more noise. For the same reasons just posted you, this will also be amplified somewhat. There are two ways to help this. You can either replace the tires (if you suspect these are at issue) or you can again use the Dynamat (or equivalent) and deaden the noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the nature of the vehicle, there is basically no way without extraordinary means to get the Transit as quiet as the Focus ... I just don't see it happening. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt;, however, get the noise down to a manageable level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T00:14:38.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T01:08:25.090" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;battery test says 1/2 good.  Should battery be replaced or recharged.  Battery is&#xA;likely 8-10 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10029" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T10:25:10.373" Title="checking specific gravity of battery fluid reads 1/2good. Should I charge or replace?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-07T11:47:45.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T03:46:02.613" Score="2" ViewCount="3833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to Air Force Field Training this summer, which means that I will have to leave my car unattended (in Prescott, AZ) for a month.  This is a problem for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have Goodyear MT/R tires which are made of Kevlar.  If the tires rest on hot pavement for too long they will develop flat spots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a soft top Jeep that's been broken into before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to keep the paint out of the sun, since I can't be washing and waxing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a garage to use, and a fabric cover would cost more than 1 months rent at a storage unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is if it's OK to jack up the car, and rest the axles (close to the wheel) on wooden blocks for a month.  I would like to keep the MT/R tires off the ground (for the reason mentioned above), and I was wondering if that's the best way to do so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice on storing a vehicle in the dessert is also appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T11:30:39.757" Title="Storing a car on wood blocks in storage unit" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T09:51:17.607" Score="5" ViewCount="2312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 2000 volvo s80 with around 93k on the odometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving the other day and I felt sort of sick. At first I&#xA;thought it was some dirt on the floor that got into the air. &#xA;But upon driving again about 30 minutes later it was apparent something&#xA;was definitely wrong, I was feeling woozy and weak the rest of the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has a bunch of lights on, but a mechanic says that it was mainly&#xA;just the catalytic converter.. and that was only an &quot;environmental problem&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at this point I'm thinking of just junking it, since I don't think it's worth getting CO poisoning over. What would you suggest? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10032" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:47:50.270" Title="Car feels like it's filling up with fumes" Tags="|exhaust|volvo|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16258" CreationDate="2015-04-07T10:25:10.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to charge it first. After charging recheck the specific gravity. If the test is acceptable have the battery load tested. Most auto parts suppliers will do it for free. The load test simulates the battery starting the engine. You can have a battery that will read good with a hydrometer and still fail the load test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T10:25:10.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16259" CreationDate="2015-04-07T10:36:41.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would jack the vehicle up and use jack stands instead of blocks. Even the cheapest jack stands would be safer than stacked wood. If it is only sitting for a month, the jack stands on the axle tubes will be fine. If it will be in long term storage then I would put the jack stands on the frame. By supporting it by the frame the suspension will be unloaded also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T10:36:41.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T10:37:01.760" Score="9" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use your windshield wipers when your windshield is mostly dry, are you damaging them at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding has been that using your wipers on a dry windshield increases the amount of friction the motor has to work against, and therefore wears it out quicker as well as causing potential damage to the rubber blades. Is this true? If so, how much do you have to overwork the motor before it goes kaput?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9891" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T19:25:55.537" Title="What wears out windshield wipers?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16264" CreationDate="2015-04-07T11:46:06.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has always been a pet peeve of mine. They make cars smart but they can't make the washer squirt before the wipers turn on.The primary concern with wiping dry windows is abrasion. as you drive or simply being parked dirt and grit accumulates on the glass. Some of it possibly glued in place by tree sap. As the dry wiper moves across the glass it is dragging the grit with it. This causes the wiper rubber to wear and scratch the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T11:46:06.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T12:02:02.230" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Honda Accord. I replace the radiator and cooling fan, now they come on as soon the ignition is turned on and 30 seconds later the heat gauge goes to high.I am wondering if I have a grounding problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10031" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T11:09:46.887" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T14:42:02.903" Title="98 Honda Accord 2.3L" Tags="|honda|accord|fan|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:26:24.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this to be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G5B6882230170&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 means 2006, 88 means 8.month = august, 22nd day of, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10035" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T21:48:27.813" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:48:27.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16838" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:28:25.723" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading this article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearheaddiva.com/3422/troubleshooting-an-engine-that-stalls-at-idle-when-warm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vapor lock&lt;/a&gt; regarding my intermittent hot weather idle problems, and was wondering if an old, clogged fuel filter could cause intermittent fuel pressure problems and put stress on the fuel pump and make it overheat and stall when the fuel is low and it's hot outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:08:29.147" Title="Irregular Fuel Pressure and a Old Clogged Fuel Filter" Tags="|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16277" CreationDate="2015-04-07T16:51:31.223" Score="2" ViewCount="30554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Chevy Express cargo van that needs to have its short block replaced, but I can't do the labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many book (flat rate) hours would this take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10036" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T21:51:48.317" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T05:23:18.637" Title="How many book hours would it take to replace a short block?" Tags="|chevrolet|express-van|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15170" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:11:36.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you check your motor mounts.  This sounds like a motor mount issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10038" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T20:46:40.050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T20:46:40.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T23:13:14.293" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;when i start the car when cold it has no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after it is at operating temp and shut it off and try to restart it it cranks with no fire, when you turn the key off and try it again it will fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;took it to a chevy dealer and they said it did not happen for them.&#xA;when i picked it up and drove 3 miles to a store went in,  and was back out in a couple minutes, it would crank with no fire and started after 2nd try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had this experience before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10041" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:47:25.983" Title="2005 classic will start when cold but has trouble starting when warm" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16271" CreationDate="2015-04-08T01:12:36.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The long block version of this vehicle, the 2500 (I believe), is 17.5 hours.  This only includes the engine swap off an automatic transmission, associated electrical and factory fuel systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AC adds time as does a broken bolt and any post migration troubleshooting that is required if there are components that have failed that the shop was not aware of prior to the swap.  Items that @movemorecommentslinktotop enumerated are all relevant as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hours can easily increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T01:12:36.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16271" CreationDate="2015-04-08T03:41:47.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Block&lt;/strong&gt;   18.3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Includes: R&amp;amp;R Engine And Transfer All Necessary Components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With A/C add 1.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With Cruise Control add 0.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complete Assembly&lt;/strong&gt; With Transfer Of Parts 10.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Includes: Transfer All Fuel &amp;amp; Electrical Units. Does Not Include: Transfer Of Optional Equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With A/C add 1.4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With Cruise Control add 0.4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Block&lt;/strong&gt; 15.3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Includes: R&amp;amp;R Engine And Transfer All Necessary Components Not Supplied With Long Block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With A/C add 1.5 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check around, you may get a better overall price at a machine shop, a lot of them do the whole job, including R&amp;amp;R the engine. Otherwise you are paying a shop to pull the engine and send it to a machine shop. Unless of course you are just purchasing a reman short block outright, but it may still be less expensive to go to a machine shop for the whole job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T03:49:40.947" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T03:49:40.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:22:13.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if it's leaking from the end of a hose, you can cut it and put the clamp back on the remaining end. If it's leaking from the radiator. 40 bucks and 30 minutes of work. If the head gasket is cracked, and you are leaking coolant from the water jackets that go up the motor to cool it, into say oil jackets, or even cyllinders, well, replace your head gasket. If the car hasn't been taken apart in a century it will take a breaker bar, the correct sockets and a good wrench. Breaker bar for the head bolts. You'll need to unbolt the power steering, get it out of the way, take off the timing cover upper and lower, air wrench, air powered wrench I believe for the crankshaft bolt, then follow directions to resetting the timing belt as it is strapped from block to head, head is on top. Could take a couple days. Follow youtube videos and get a reliable ride you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T06:22:13.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15509" CreationDate="2015-04-08T06:41:36.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Civic. It was actually an intake mount, one little bracket causing all the shaking. I just decided to let the motor rest on it and didn't bolt it back together until later. I bent mine pushing and shoving up and down on the intake getting it out. Apparently motors and how they are mounted are very balanced pieces of machinery. But it's easy to fix. Just get the brackets back on and it'll go away. Not sure what you're working on but it's probably a combination of a part of the motor hanging outward, giving just enough vibration and leverage to shake the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T06:41:36.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16274" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:41:15.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle struggles with hot starts but is fine with cold starts, it indicates that there is a lack of fuel pressure in the fuel lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be down to a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A minor leak/puncture in the fuel rail/lines that doesn't allow retention of pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stuck fuel injector that isn't closing completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insufficient pressurization due to a weak fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why fuel pressure plays an important role in hot starts is that fuel has a tendency to vaporize due to the heat from a hot engine. To combat this, the fuel line is kept under pressure to prevent/reduce vaporization from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also explains why the vehicle starts at the 2nd attempt - during the 1st start attempt the system has had the chance to pressurize the fuel line and purge the fuel vapors present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T09:41:15.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T10:18:54.133" Score="2" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to replace my tyre with the number 175/70 R13 but the seller gave me a tyre with the number 155 R13 are they the same or I should get the same number&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10044" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:24:01.057" Title="difference between 175/70R 13 and 155 R 13 tyres" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16285" CreationDate="2015-04-08T11:15:34.330" Score="2" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a used car (2003 Nissan Sentra) from a friend who also bought it used a couple years back. Since he bought it used he doesn't know the detailed history of the car. I looked online and I saw that the car has had several recalls issued. If I go to a Nissan dealership will they check all the parts of the car to make sure all the recalled ones have been swapped? If they do find that it has recalled parts would they replace them for for free?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T11:48:26.340" Title="Do car dealerships check if a car needs recalled parts for free?" Tags="|nissan|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16259" CreationDate="2015-04-08T11:30:39.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone you know have a set of jack stands you can borrow? May be a better option than cinderblocks or wood. One other consideration is to put fuel stabilizer in the tank, then fill it all the way up. This will help keep the fuel from getting stale while sitting for the month. Also, disconnect the battery so it doesn't get the slow drain whammy put on it from the vehicle system. This and putting it on blocks should alleviate any issues you might have when you get back to your go buggy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T11:30:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2015-04-08T11:48:26.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In every jurisdiction that I know of, the answer is yes.  It is a legal requirement of the vehicle recall system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give a dealer the VIN, they will be able to check if the vehicle ever had the recall work done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it hadn't, then the whole point of recalls is that the work is free to the owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T11:48:26.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2015-04-08T13:33:31.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the power steering pump has fluid in it.  If it runs dry it can cause your pulley to seize and your belt to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T14:53:06.303" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:53:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:16:19.080" Score="0" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the OEM shock be replaced on a 2008 Pulsar 150?  I would like to remove the OEM shock and replace it with a 41mm aftermarket model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10049" LastEditorUserId="9167" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T03:00:37.387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:28:30.010" Title="Can a 41mm shock be replaced in Bajaj Pulsar 150 by removing the company fitted one?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|pulsar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:20:45.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre sizes are indicated by different numbers. Take for example 205/50 R 16 87V.&#xA;The first number 205 is indicating the width of the tyre in mm. 50 denotes the height of the tyre in % of the width of the tire, measured from the edge of the rim (normally called an &lt;em&gt;aspect ratio&lt;/em&gt;). R stands for radial, 16 for the diameter of the rim in inches. 87 denotes the load capacity of the tyre (545kg max) and V stands for a certain speed index (240km/h max).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply this to your case (where in fact some numbers are missing), you are comparing a tyre of 175mm width, 70mm height, 13 inch to a tyre which has a width of 155mm, 13 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your safety and for the fun of driving you should stick to the numbers that the manufacturer of your vehicle states. Usually this is printed on a sticker, mounted on the chassis in the door opening of the driver side. If it's missing there, it also is noted in the manual of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general terms the width of the tyre determines the grip you get on the road, while the height of the tyre is determining the driving comfort. But you need to be aware that if your new tyres height deviates too much from the factory specified height, your spedometer will also be influenced..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-08-30T17:24:01.057" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T17:24:01.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16288" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:49:40.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock shock can be replaced on your motorcycle.  Indicating that you want to use a 41mm replacement, I am unsure of fitment and could not say.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several manufacturers that offer replacement rear shocks, they are usually relatively expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:49:40.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16680" CreationDate="2015-04-08T16:03:42.407" Score="6" ViewCount="44604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a U.S. 2011 Volkswagen GTI. After the car wouldn't start (starter would crank but engine would not turn on) I decided it's probably time to replace the battery, and did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car starts fine, but now the AC blower won't turn on at any setting. All the normal AC lights come on on the dash, and I can hear the engine revs changing when the compressor kicks in, but no air comes from the vents at any of the 4 fan settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've done so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked every single fuse (under the hood and under the dash) both visually and with a non-powered fuse checker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected the battery for about an hour and reconnected it (I read something online about allowing the system to reset, probably hogwash)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visually inspected the blower's resistor pack which is located under the passenger glove box. It appears OK but I'm not sure how to actually test it with my multimeter, or if I should even try at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I connected the new battery, the negative terminal arced upon connection. Could this indicate a bad ground somewhere else in the wiring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a custom stereo system with a 600W amp connected to the battery which has worked fine for a few years now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I went for a drive earlier today, the windows would roll down but the automatic rolldown function (when pressing fully on the button) wouldn't work. When I started the car again later it worked again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above makes me suspect a bad ground, but I'm just now learning how to diagnose electrical problems! I'm a complete novice at maintaining my own vehicle but am eager to learn, especially since I'm now out of warranty :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps would you take to diagnose this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10050" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:46:15.760" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T22:46:38.613" Title="AC blower won't turn on after replacing battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|vw|ac|gti|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16291" CreationDate="2015-04-08T21:47:25.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the switch has failed. I don't see a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; reason for it doing it during a battery change, though (doesn't make sense, but sometimes you have to look at what seems right). I doubt it is the resistor pack, either. Not because you inspected it, but because of how the resistor pack works. A resistor pack works by having resistors which lower the amount of power to the fan. This causes the fan to run at the lower speeds. When you get to the last setting, the last connection is full power, which causes the fan to run at high speed. Since it doesn't have a resistor associated with the last fan position, the fan should run at full blast on that one if there is power getting to it. Since it's not blowing, you have to consider the switch as a possible problem. If you pull the switch out, you should be able to test it. I don't have a diagram, but you should be able to see if the is continuity through the switch by attaching a multimeter to the terminals on each of the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the switch appears to be good, you can test to ensure you are getting power as an input to the switch. If there isn't power there, you'd need to trace it back to where the power originates. I'm not sure if the VW uses a relay for the heater fan, but it appears from &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~jeri534/fuses.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't. If it does, this would also be a place you'd need to test. Also, check the power &lt;em&gt;at&lt;/em&gt; the fuse you tested. This might help you trace it back as well. Beyond the fuse and the possibility of a relay, finding a wiring fault beyond that will probably be a nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'd need to consider the fan itself. If you pull it, you can test it by applying a 12v source directly to it. It will either run or it won't. Ensure you put the power on it the right way, though (+ to +/- to ground). I don't know if hooking it up backwards will cause any issues, but I wouldn't tempt the fates on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the arcing goes when you put the negative terminal on, usually this is normal (depending on the &lt;em&gt;amount&lt;/em&gt; of arc). There is always a nominal amount of power draw on the battery when the car is at rest. This is due to things like keeping the PCU memory intact, keeping the channels programmed in your radio, and the body control module (BCM) keeping track of when you press open/close on your key fob. If you could weld with the arc which occurred, there is probably a bit too much draw. A little arcing can be expected though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T21:47:25.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T00:01:15.867" Score="2" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Jeep Commander driver side power window controls will only work for the rear windows. I have checked the switches and they are in working order. The front windows and the power mirror controls do not work I'm assuming there is a problem with the wiring harness. Please advise with repair procedures. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10057" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T11:06:13.750" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T09:16:05.267" Title="2006 Jeep Commander Driver's side window controls only work for rear windows" Tags="|electrical|jeep|switches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16291" CreationDate="2015-04-09T00:06:41.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does air come out of the dash outlets when the A/C is off and the fresh air/vent is turned on?  If yes, then the problem is unique to the A/C pathway/controls, and air must not be moving through it.  There may be an obstruction in the A/C plenum or air ducts, perhaps a stuck valve.  But if no, and neither fresh air nor A/C air is moving, then I suspect your dash fan/blower motor or its switch has failed, or the fuse to the fan has blown.  I'd confirm that before debugging the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the A/C compressor &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; audibly turning on and off, then the problem must lie elsewhere.  Perhaps you can't feel the cool air because the fan/blower motor isn't moving any air.  It's also possible that the A/C coolant has escaped and the compressor has nothing to compress.  But most compressors will not engage when their coolant pressure falls too low, so this possibility does not seem to match your symptoms, since you say the compressor does turn on/off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can confirm that the fan/blower motor and its switch works when the engine is off and the ignition is on.  When the engine is silent, the fan/blower will be clearly audible.  Of course the engine must be running in order to test the A/C compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arcing during battery reconnect is typical if one or more electric services were turned on at the time (like your stereo or alarm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally you may need to take the car to the dealer for a computer reset.  The electronics of some newer cars can go into an incoherent state after a battery disconnect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastEditorUserId="4237" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T00:15:21.340" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T00:15:21.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T00:16:33.573" Score="4" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Honda Accord. It always starts on the first try everyday. It's after I turn the car off it won't restart sometimes. If I sit and wait 2-3 minutes, it will restart. What could be the issue here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10058" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T12:37:16.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T17:47:28.820" Title="Car won't start sometimes" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T06:13:37.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are my options for replacing tires for 2001 Subaru Outback?   One tire is damaged and it seems I need 4 matching tires as it is AWD.  255,225,260,...etc.  If they match, can I change size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10060" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T12:37:38.133" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T13:02:49.110" Title="Replacing tires for 2001 Subaru Outback" Tags="|tires|subaru|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T07:40:36.557" Score="1" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a volvo s40 2005 model. I tryed locking it with the remote and it would not respond. Initially i thought it is because the battery for the remote is finished. I bought a new one and changed it. However, the car stil does not respond. What could be the problem? Currently i am locking manually, which means the alarm will not be set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10061" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T12:39:42.730" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:05:18.210" Title="volvo s40 2005 model, remote unresponsive" Tags="|volvo|keyless-entry|fob|s40|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T08:56:10.350" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I woke to find antifreeze all over the driveway. My reservoir was empty. I took it to the radiator shop and they said I had to leaks. Then I remembered I had the warranty so I took it to the dealership, and all of a sudden I don't have any leaks. Long story short, I think the dealership put stop leak into radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell if they fixed the radiator vs. putting stop leak in it? For example, if they put stop leak into the radiator, would I be able to tell visually by looking at the antifreeze? Mine has black white grayish powdery stuff and I'm wondering why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10062" LastEditorUserId="3717" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T18:20:52.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:01:05.627" Title="radiator stop leak" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16310" CreationDate="2015-04-09T15:29:29.230" Score="3" ViewCount="2735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving at night and in rural areas I pickup a lot of BIG sticky bugs on the windshield. Even with new wipers on the vehicle I often cannot wash/wipe the bugs off sufficiently while going down the road. Are some washer fluids better at removing sticky bugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10066" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T19:07:00.113" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T20:33:53.700" Title="Windshield washer fluid for sticky bugs" Tags="|windshield-wipers|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16307" CreationDate="2015-04-09T15:55:36.277" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kept my old replaced battery in my boot to carry it to recycle store. The battery water/fluid leaked all over the boot liner mat. There is no damage to the mat whatsoever but it is not drying. It's been a month now. I kept it in open sunshine for a day as well. &#xA;Please advise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &#xA;DS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10067" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T14:03:40.290" Title="Boot Liner Mat not drying after battery leak" Tags="|battery|material|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16305" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:08:12.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is highly likely that the &quot;battery water&quot; is a strong lead-containing acid that you do not want to be handling without appropriate personal protective equipment. This will also explain why it is not evaporating easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advisable thing to do is have it professionally disposed of, because lead and lead ions are toxic. In the absence of such a service, rinsing it with copious amounts of water should help to dilute the acid, but the resultant wash-off should then be disposed of in a responsible manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T14:03:40.290" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T14:03:40.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:38:48.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is special windshield washer fluid that is designed specifically to remove the remains of bugs from your windshield.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the active ingredient is in these formula's.  I have used this fluid and did not seem to do any harm to the paint of my vehicle either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the major auto parts stores have several brands of this type of washer fluid on their shelves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own experience is that it works pretty good.  Better than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T19:38:48.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16300" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:46:50.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't change the size.  It screws everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedometer, ABS, transmission....all of the sensors think the car is going a different speed than the actual speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done it but I would say that the ensuing results of changing the outside diameter of the tires would not be desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T19:46:50.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16304" CreationDate="2015-04-09T20:33:53.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the real key to getting the bugs off is, &lt;strong&gt;the shorter they are on the windshield, the easier they come off the windshield&lt;/strong&gt;. If you are in a swarm, I understand this can use a lot of washer fluid and will keep the wipers in the on position a lot. Been there; done that. ( &lt;em&gt;Try travelling in southern Virginia in the summer time at dusk and see the green glow of lightning bugs as they &lt;strong&gt;cover&lt;/strong&gt; the windshield.&lt;/em&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something which may help you in the future is to apply a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-water-repellents-cleaners/rainx-original-glass-treatment/#.VSbf8_nF98E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rain-X&lt;/a&gt;. It says on their product page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Product Features&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve all-weather visibility, safety and driving comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helps easily remove frost, ice, salt, mud and &lt;strong&gt;bugs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This along with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rainx.com/product/windshield-washer-fluid/rain-x-2-in-1-windshield-washer-fluid/#.VSbhNfnF98E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;windshield washer fluid&lt;/a&gt; to help the repellent part stay good on your windshield will help tremendously with removing bugs when the go splat. Personal experience with the product allows me to state this is a good product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; I have no affiliation with the product nor the company which manufactures it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T20:33:53.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16305" CreationDate="2015-04-09T21:02:27.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electrolyte in a common lead-acid car battery is dilute sulfuric acid H2SO4 which does not contain lead. Spilled electrolyte is corrosive and hazardous. You do not want to inhale the fumes and I recommend swabbing the spilled area with household ammonia or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), either of which will neutralize the acid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your next battery, consider buying a maintenance-free gel type that won't leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10070" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T21:27:51.713" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T21:27:51.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4302" CreationDate="2015-04-09T21:39:59.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Citroen C4 OEM stereo can play music from bluetooth devices such as android or IOS based phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T21:39:59.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3392" CreationDate="2015-04-09T21:51:04.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very simple linkage components that aftermarket companies manufacturer to lower motorcycles. Here is an example of a component sold to lower the Kawasaki ER6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYmpu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Link Lowering Kit for Kawasaki ER6&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the shock to swingarm mount looks like with the linkage in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqDMt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the appearance of the shock to swingarm mount point without the linkage in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTeDF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the linkage.  It typically leverages the stock lower shock bolt.  Use the bolt to mount the shock directly to the swingarm.  Use some blue locktight to ensure the two cylinder vibration with the ER6 doesn't slowly back out the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:58:25.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16119" CreationDate="2015-04-09T22:32:28.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest using 'Gorilla Glue'.  It makes anything stick to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T22:32:28.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16317" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-09T23:55:46.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel injection inserts fuel by mechanical or electro-mechanical means into an ICE (internal combustion engine). It replaces carburation on most modern vehicles and has transformed fuel delivery to become more efficient and environmentally friendly due it's reduced waste of hydrocarbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel Injection&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL6go.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL6go.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:48:30.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:48:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16318" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-09T23:55:46.687" Score="0" Body="A method of mixing fuel and air to be consumed by an internal combustion engine." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:48:30.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:48:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2015-04-10T02:25:55.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relays are little micro-switches with electromagnetic actuators that make the mechanical action of switching. This electromagnet needs a continuous solid ground connection to work consistently. The ground leg on the relay relies on its pole connector to make complete connection to the ground circuit of the relay/fuse board that holds all these plugged in components. The ground circuit connection from this relay/fuse component receptacles board must have good connection to vehicle body/frame ground connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If corroded or loose, this ground connection for the component board will create numerous bad connection results ranging from fried hot-spots on the board and in the fuse/relay receptacles to relays that have internally damaged contacts that will perform oddly and provide anything from temporary connection to partial connection to no connection. All randomly produced from varying degrees of conduction affected by heat and other varying physical conditions on the circuit at that particular moment. Often these relay/fuse boards are mounted on plastic supports that insulate the board to the vehicle frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connection from the vehicle grounded frame is accomplished via a wire conductor or incorporated into the circuit board's thin film grounding conductor pattern routed through one of the hold down bolt/screw into the metal frame to achieve necessary ground connection. So a good ground connection for this relay/fuse circuit board is critical for it to function. Connection to ground often becomes corroded or vibrated loose. Wire brushing, re-crimping and re-tightening has solved many a phantom dysfunction on these connection dependent relay/fuse boards. These relay/fuse box bolt/screws ground connections sometimes require looking underneath these boxes to identify and confirm this ground connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10075" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T02:58:10.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T02:58:10.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T03:32:51.247" Score="3" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine runs well and the transmission shifts well. The only indication was the oil gauge dropping at a stop light. I immediately put 3 quarts in. There was nothing visible at this time. When I stopped 40 miles later, there was smoke from the oil and coolant mixture getting on the exhaust. At this point, it was pouring past the reservoir cap, and it was everywhere. The 3 quarts were gone in 40 miles. It still ran well. I put more oil in to drive onto the trailer I borrowed to get it home. Many people say head gasket, but I know of no pressurized oil that would be adjacent to the water jacket/head gasket. I assume the oil still travels through the lifter/pushrod/rocker arm path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the lifter gallery crack in the block? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the engine run so well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the LT1 have oil paths different from the rest of the small blocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10077" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T15:13:00.453" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T15:52:40.337" Title="1994 LT1 350 in a Caprice wagon. Oil getting pumped into the coolant and flowing past the coolant reservoir cap" Tags="|oil|coolant|lt1|caprice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T07:07:14.380" Score="2" ViewCount="3190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Pontiac Firebird with a 4L60E automatic transmission. I bought a transmission rebuild kit and installed everything right, but it's not shifting into second the way it should. Everything in the kit was installed. All the gears new, oil new, filter, but the stator seal I had to replace. I don't know what it can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10078" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T11:47:49.063" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T05:07:36.883" Title="Transmission won't shift into second after rebuild" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16300" CreationDate="2015-04-10T08:24:54.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is closely related to:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16282/difference-between-175-70r-13-and-155-r-13-tyres/16289#16289&quot;&gt;difference between 175/70R 13 and 155 R 13 tyres&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my reply on the post above (and @Paulster2 comment), you COULD change the tyres. You are talking only about the width of the tyre. For FWD or RWD cars: as long as the two on the front match with eachother and the two on the back match with eachother, you're good. But in a 4x4, permanent AWD/4WD you're better off to choose 4 matching tyres for your car to maintain equal grip on all wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T08:24:54.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16320" CreationDate="2015-04-10T11:37:54.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is probably with the oil cooler. The LT1 can have an oil cooler which pushes coolant through a housing at the oil filter. It cools the oil as it enters and exits the oil filter. Here is a diagram of the system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL5hB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be looking at #4 where the heat exchange occurs. If this housing were to crack or have an issue, you'd be pumping oil into the coolant system due to oil pressure usually being much higher (should be over 2x the pressure in the system) than what the coolant sits at fully warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this being the issue, it's also the reason your vehicle continues to run well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T11:37:54.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16321" CreationDate="2015-04-10T12:10:58.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the 1-2 and 2-3 (A/B) shift solenoids are continuing to be energized or are stuck in the on position. According to the 1994 Camaro/Firebird Service Manual (pg 7A-14A-6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The PCM energizes each solenoid by grounding it through an internal quad driver. This sends current through the coil winding in the solenoid and moves the interal plunger out of the exhaust position. When 'ON', the solenoid redirects fluid to move a shift valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for the transmission to be in first gear only, both of these need to be energized, which makes me wonder: are you sure it's in first gear and not third gear? This could also be the case, mainly because 3rd gear happens when both solenoids are &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt;. The general layout for the shift to solenoid operation looks thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Gear  |    Shift Solenoid |  2-4 BAND |  FW Sprag &#xA;      |    1-2    |  2-3  |           |&#xA;1st   |    ON     |  ON   |           |  HOLDING&#xA;2nd   |    OFF    |  ON   |  APPLIED  |  HOLDING&#xA;3rd   |    OFF    |  OFF  |           |  HOLDING&#xA;4th   |    ON     |  OFF  |  APPLIED  |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a check engine light which might be on? If so, get this read, as it will tell you if one of the solenoids is not operating correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you get the electrical connector reseated properly? There are a dozen or so pins in the connector, one of which may have become bent when reinstalled. Pull the connector and ensure there aren't any major issues with dirt, crap, or bent pins (if for not other reason than to eliminate this as an issue). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, without more information, I'd be at a loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:10:58.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:29:54.017" Score="0" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its just flattening my battery and leaving car headlights on? Even used ISO an adapter. Stereo is staying on when I have ignition off.  Can someone tell me how to do this as don't really fancy paying £30 at Halfords to fit the radio!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10079" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T02:25:57.610" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:28:25.073" Title="How do I wire an MVH-150UI to a Peugeot 206?" Tags="|ignition|audio|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:34:33.950" Score="0" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips on how I can remove the front seat back panel from a Alhambra/Sharan 2014 registration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:23:48.343" Title="Remove Alhambra/Sharan seat cover" Tags="|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16329" CreationDate="2015-04-10T17:19:54.547" Score="3" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of trucks with body rust around the rear wheels, and a lot of cars with body rust behind the front wheels and below the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into trying to repair some rust on my car and the rust converters I've looked at recommend sanding down to bare metal before applying the rust converter. If you can apply it to non-rusted steel, why don't car manufacturers treat these parts of the car with rust converter at the factory to make them more corrosion-resistant? Or do they perform some sort of treatment and it simply cannot stand up to roads that are salted in the winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3717" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:20:02.500" Title="Why don't car manufacturers treat rust-prone parts of a car with rust converter?" Tags="|rust|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16328" CreationDate="2015-04-10T17:41:45.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufactures take several steps to prevent corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zinc coating to the bare steel at the steel mil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metal treatment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electrodeposition coating (E-coat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seam sealers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chip-resistant coatings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top Coats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undercoating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an illustration form &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shintoacs.com/english/products/main.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axalta Shinto Coating Systems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBFSb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bmwusfactory.com/manufacturing/production-process/paint-shop/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMW as a video on this page that shows the whole painting process&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing lasts forever, but most are warrantied between 5 and 10 years, even some up to 25 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of time the vehicles corrosion protection lasts depends on the elements that the vehicle is exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your particular problem take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;POR15&lt;/a&gt;, POR stands for Paint over rust. If you follow the three step process you do not have to remove the rust or sand down to the bare metal. This stuff is GREAT, I have used it on many many vehicles, and many of the restoration shops swear by it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IAYi1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T18:20:02.500" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:20:02.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:06:07.997" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a 2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi Sedan 4 door car. Recently the radio has started giving problems. Specifically, whenever I change the volume by turning the knob, the radio stops playing... and then all of a sudden after about a minute, starts playing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please anyone who knows what is happenning and how can the problem be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10082" LastEditorUserId="10771" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T03:32:23.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T03:32:23.880" Title="Radio stops playing when I change volume" Tags="|electrical|audio|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16288" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:28:30.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bajaj shocks are really cheap, maybe $20. You can get them wherever the bikes are sold (in Asia). As far as length, I am unsure what the length is on stock shocks, you can measure them with a tape measure. If the length is slightly longer or shorter, you will be fine, it will just change the ride a bit. This is an Indian 150 4-stroke, not an 1100CC race bike. Try it out and see how it goes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:28:30.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16017" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:32:15.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check tire pressure every single time you leave home, along with chain tension. If your tires are leaking this much, you should have them replaced. In the meantime, fill them up every time you leave the house. Pro tip: a bicycle pump will work to fill your motorcycle tires, believe it or not. Keep one in the garage so you don't have to stop at a machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:32:15.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4987" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:34:14.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like an air leak to me. Do a leak test, by spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid on the intake, carb and around the head, while the bike is idling. If it starts revving when you spray fluid, it's leaking air. Replace the gasket/tighten up nearest where the rev-producing spray occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:34:14.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:38:29.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open up the variator and check the rollers. You will need an impact wrench or a holding tool to get the flywheel cover off. The variator is in the front of the transmission. When you inspect the rollers, look for cracks or flat spots. While you're in there, check the belt as well. Order new rollers just in case, they're less than $20. The cheapo ones that come with some scooters can be defective, and you can also change the weights to make the bike perform differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it sounds like a trans problem. Try changing the driven gear oil as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6721" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:38:29.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" Score="0" Body="Vehicle manufactured by Honda Motors. It is a compact 4-door pickup truck." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:48:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16337" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16338" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" Score="0" Body="Vehicle manufactured by Mazda. Also known as an MX-5. Is a small Japanese sports car." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:50:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16339" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16340" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" Score="0" Body="Full-size luxury crossover SUV built by Buick (GM)." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T01:52:31.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T05:43:32.587" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a car I had a few years ago ('96 Cavalier) I ran into an issue where I would turn the key, and the car would shake while starting. After it started I could feel the engine rev in a cyclic pattern (I timed it and it repeated fairly consistently). After putting the car in gear I would coast for a moment without my foot on the peddle and the car would accelerate slightly every time the motor would hit that cyclic rev. When depressing the accelerator the car would just continue that pattern with more gusto, but would top out at about halfway down (accelerator peddle that is). After trying to figure out what the problem was myself, I had it towed to a mechanic and after leaving it there for three days they called and said that when they started the car nothing was wrong. They attempted to leave it running a while and drive it around to attempt to replicate the issue, but to no avail. So I picked up my car and never had the issue again for the year or so I had it before I sold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned above I do not have the car, I was just wondering if anyone has had this issue before or had any idea what it could be. I thought perhaps it was a misfire in the cylinder, since I had that cyclic revving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10069" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:24:39.387" Title="Car would start roughly and then coast with cyclic acceleration (foot not on peddle)" Tags="|chevrolet|troubleshooting|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:42:49.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T11:41:55.137" Score="1" ViewCount="1459" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (1994 Honda accord) is not starting even after I put in a new battery. When I wiggle the Battery a little, I find that the car will turn half way, with the lights showing the battery and oil, the music will come on the electric windows move, yet when I try to start it, everything goes dark, no click. I have just put in a new battery and had a starter put on it. Before it stopped running there was a rubber smell when it got hot, could this be the problem?  Our what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10085" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T11:48:58.407" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T11:53:30.547" Title="Will not start after new battery was placed" Tags="|honda|battery|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16342" CreationDate="2015-04-11T11:53:30.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is with the connection. You have either not tightened the strap enough, there is something there keeping the electricity from flowing (corrosion), or both. Take both straps off of the battery and ensure they are completely clean. You can do this by using a small brush and water to clean the crud off. Replace the straps on the battery (assuming the battery posts are clean due to it being a new battery) and tighten until they don't wiggle anymore. If available, you could put a small amount of grease (petroleum based) on the posts and on the straps to help prevent corrosion in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work there could be a problem with your one or both of your battery cables. Look for fat spots in the cable. If this is the case, it means you have corrosion inside the cable and it will have to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T11:53:30.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16341" CreationDate="2015-04-11T16:25:10.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be moisture in the spark plugs, did you have it washed (especially the engine). If that is the case, the engine is running on few cylinders until the engine's heath evaporates the water around the plugs and then suddenly everything is back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T16:25:10.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2015-04-11T20:18:11.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that if the overflow tank only has a small hose from the over pressure nipple on radiator right under cap then that is normal and you should put the tester right on the radiator cap mouth, as the overflow isn't a reservoir and won't be getting circulation from coolant system until the cap is over pressurized. As opposed to a reservoir or expansion tank that has a (usually at least 1/2&quot;id) feed hose to radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10087" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T20:18:11.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16351" CreationDate="2015-04-11T21:07:51.417" Score="1" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2.0L SOHC Automatic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently rotated my wheels and noticed that the rear wheels make a slight grinding noise. After some research on the internet, I think the issue could be due to rust in the brake drum. &lt;strong&gt;There is no problem with braking and I don't hear any noise when I am driving.&lt;/strong&gt; I hear it only when I jack the car up and move the wheel by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to get my drum brakes serviced? Or can I just keep driving like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to do it my self and don't want to take it to a mechanic unless it is really necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The noticed the noise before removing the wheels, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; after as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T00:56:45.480" Title="Do I need to service rear Drum Brakes?" Tags="|brakes|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15853" CreationDate="2015-04-11T21:27:57.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very descriptive answer, however I don't agree with the constant power source. In my experience I would use #42 (20a fuse) for the driver's window. Even with the in line fuse it's possible to surge the fuse and if it were to blow you'd only lose the power window on driver's side/(rather insignificant when it comes to safety). Besides that, I agree completely with the first answer.. really mostly just opinion. Parts stores do have splicers that clamp onto existing wires to avoid weak connections that causes wires to heat up ... good luck, hope I could help. I've just been wiring aftermarket electronics since 8th grade kinda a hobby I'm almost 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10089" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T17:34:33.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T17:34:33.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T21:54:38.197" Score="1" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;: 2000 Chevy Blazer 4WD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue&lt;/strong&gt;: Front Driver-Size window button is no longer working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Details&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;I checked all other buttons and electrical related things and they all appear to be working. If I turn the window lock on, then hold the front driver-side window button down it'll start making a clicking noise (up nor any other buttons cause this to occur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: Would this be a wiring issue or the regulator? If it's a wiring issue how would I go about fixing it? Are you able to just go to a parts store and get replacements or would I have to rewire something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T00:37:48.150" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T00:59:54.590" Title="Front Driver-side window stopped working" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|power-windows|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16348" CreationDate="2015-04-12T00:56:45.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think there could be an issue with the brakes, you need to have them inspected. You should pull the drum off of the brakes and see what's going on. Check the depth of the friction material on the shoe to ensure there is enough &quot;meat&quot; on them to do the work for you. If you are unfamiliar with how to do it or what to look for, take the car to a trusted mechanic (one which won't say you need them whether you do or not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remember with vehicle braking, about 60% of the braking is done at the front of the vehicle. Just because you feel that the brakes are working well, doesn't mean there isn't an issue with the rear brakes. If you were to get into a situation where you need to perform some extreme braking (emergency braking) and the rear brakes aren't doing there job, your stopping distance will be increased. While they only do about 40% of the braking, they are there for a purpose and should be respected as such. For your safety, your passengers, and those you drive around, get them inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T00:56:45.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16350" CreationDate="2015-04-12T00:59:54.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will either be a problem with the switch or with the regulator (motor). Usually if it's the motor, it will &lt;em&gt;overheat&lt;/em&gt; and stop working (partially roll down and stop), then after a while it will work again and move the window another inch or two. If it's the switch, it could partially work or not at all. It is highly unlikely it would be the wiring, as it rarely if ever goes bad (unless it's messed with or the vehicle gets in an accident and the wiring is disturbed for some reason). It could &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; be an issue where both the switch and the motor are bad, but that is highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T00:59:54.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T01:39:23.187" Score="4" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SRZH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found this flange part in a box of assorted vintage MOPAR parts and can't figure out what its application could be. It sort of looks like a toilet flange for your household commode but I don't think it's that. I think it's some sort of automotive fitting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It has a 4&quot; OD and 2&quot; ID -then a seat and drops to 2nd 1.4&quot; inner ID. No identifying marks or stamping. It's a heavy steel part. Any idea what this might be and it's purpose ?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVJI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10091" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T10:41:41.417" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T10:41:41.417" Title="What type of flange is this and what's its application?" Tags="|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16611" CreationDate="2015-04-12T01:49:33.900" Score="3" ViewCount="13404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima 3.0L V6 that starts no problem but dies almost immediately. If I give it gas as I start it and hold the idle around 1500-2000 for a few seconds, then ease off, it will stay running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's been running, if I turn it off and restart, it starts and stays running no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key to &quot;On&quot; before starting the car, I can hear the fuel pump kick on and prime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's running, it seems to idle and drive fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two CELs, one p0430 for a cat, another p0440 for an evap leak I haven't been able to trace down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasonably sized exhaust leaks in the midpipe and muffler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what this might be or how to diagnose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10092" LastEditorUserId="10092" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T02:04:11.580" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T16:53:08.773" Title="2001 Maxima starts but won't stay running" Tags="|fuel-system|starting|nissan|ignition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16354" CreationDate="2015-04-12T01:54:33.127" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would need alot more technical information such as a puting it on maching to read error codes that is your first thing you should do but sounds like a dirty MAF &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10091" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T01:54:33.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16369" CreationDate="2015-04-12T15:19:45.220" Score="5" ViewCount="61869" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my car (2005 Dodge Grand Caravan) when I fill up my gas tank, almost immediately afterwards pulling out of the gas station my van sputters, misses, hesitates, call it what you will. The past couple of times the engine has actually stalled as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very short term. After this quick event it is then fine for the rest if the tank of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what could cause this?? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clarification on the symptoms, after I pull out from the gas state a few seconds down the road it's about a half second sputter/hesitation from the engine.  And then it recovers.  And then another few seconds later, the same hesitation will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is going from a really empty tank to a full tank.  I always fill it up, and let it go down to almost empty (a few gallons left in the tank when I refill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1602" LastEditorUserId="1602" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T15:07:11.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T18:12:22.713" Title="Engine hesitates and sometimes stalls after filling gas tank" Tags="|engine|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T15:49:37.787" Score="1" ViewCount="1426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning how to drive manual. When I switch gears, I just stop giving it gas, push in the clutch, select the gear, and let out the clutch. After the clutch is out, I give it gas. This works smoothly every time. But, I've been reading online, and it says that I have to give it gas while I'm letting out the clutch, after selecting the gear. What is the right way to do it? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10094" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:26:36.247" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:26:36.247" Title="Are you supposed to give the engine gas when shifting gears?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-12T22:31:04.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T19:32:54.510" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a battery in a vehicle that is running low.  It has not failed, but I measured the voltage, and so I know it's running low (11.6V).  From what I've read, a 12V battery should really be well over 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a new battery, and placed it in the vehicle (not connected), with the necessary tools and supplies to perform the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concerned about the inconvenience or safety of having to replace the old battery when it finally fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle requires some body work, which is scheduled in about a month, and will take 5-8 days.  Although I can ask, I cannot force the body shop to disconnect/reconnect the battery each time they keep doors/trunk open for an extended period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is to wait until the old battery fails to replace it, up to a maximum of 6 months.  I'm thinking 6 months, because I don't want the new battery to run low without being charged (the new battery is currently at 12.78V).  I do not have access to a battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my plan sound good?  My goal is to maximize the life of the new battery, so that I minimize the environmental and financial impact of using the vehicle.  I also don't want the new battery to get damaged (by getting drained) when the vehicle is having body work performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:11:02.893" Title="Is this plan to use old 12V battery until it fails a good one?" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16359" CreationDate="2015-04-12T19:41:19.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it works smoothly, then it should be fine, although I'm surprised it works smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, vehicles like some fuel/petrol to be introduced as the clutch is being released.  Basically, the more I release the clutch, the more fuel I give.  When the clutch is completely released, I'm giving the appropriate amount of fuel for the speed I want to maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you are doing it should actually achieve slightly better MPG, because gas delivered while the clutch is depressed is partially wasted (100% wasted if the clutch is fully depressed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T19:41:19.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T20:30:28.490" Score="1" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my car has been overheating for over 1 year. It overheated during summer or when I went 80mph only.  I recently saved up enough money to get the car fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it to my mechanic and informed him of how long it was overheating for. He replaced the water pump, thermostat and radiator and timing belt and a few gaskets. He said he test the head gaskets several times and said it came back negative as being blown. So he did not replace the head gasket and I don't think he visually inspected it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car drove good for one day then it ran awful. I brought it back and sure enough a spark plug was misfiring. We could see water leaking into that cylinder which caused the plug to misfire. He told me the head gasket is the problem. He then told me to use bars leaks liquid copper block seal, so I can just add it to the antifreeze at home. I added the solution at home when the engine was cool. I then ran the car for 20 minutes following all directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day the car ran perfect no overheating. After I left work I was driving home and I heard a pop and fluid came out on my hood and windshield. I then noticed my car was overheated to the max. I added water to the radiator and it all came out under the car within 2-3 seconds. I brought it back to the shop and the mechanic said he thinks I should just have a used engine installed in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the problem could be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just the head gasket that needs to be replaced or is it something else? If I do put in a used engine couldn't I possibly run into the same situation down the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10095" LastEditorUserId="10124" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T02:45:31.143" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:57:38.957" Title="2005 Honda Civic - Oveheating" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|overheating|head-gasket|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T01:09:49.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16360" CreationDate="2015-04-13T00:11:02.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new battery will not be drained over 5-8 days time period. If it does, you have much bigger issues to worry about. Change the battery now and be done with it. This will also ensure the body shop won't have any issues while they are working on your car as well. The worst things about batteries is they tend to die when you least expect it and at the worst possible moment. You know the old battery is on it's last leg and you have a new replacement. Just do it and be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:11:02.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16362" CreationDate="2015-04-13T04:08:00.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters it's never a good idea to add additives to you radiator, they might work short time then cause major problems down the road, as I'm sure you know now. Sound like it's gonna be a lot more work to fix your existing engine, blown head gasket, I'm sure flushing Orr cleaning top end, or worst, That was some bad info from a self proclaimed mechanic. New engine might be the best choice, and make sure the used engine doesn't have blown head, I'd get another mechanics opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10089" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T04:08:00.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16353" CreationDate="2015-04-13T11:06:04.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a bearing carrier which sits off of the front of a heavy duty differential. Something like what I have circled in this picture (not exact one, but something very similar):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v4mIG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T11:06:04.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="125" CreationDate="2015-04-13T13:54:15.187" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi to those starting engines which have been sitting &quot;idle&quot; for more than three months. We recently started a 190e Benz which had not been started for more than 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step was to check condition and level of all fluids (engine oil, trans fluid, coolant, power steering, brake fluid and battery acid). We then checked drive belts and battery terminals for tightness, and removed spark plugs, cleaned them (had to replace one with cracked insulator) and squirted WD-40 and RP 7 (spray lubricants) into the cylinders whilst spark plugs were removed. It was then decided to drizzle a little oil into the top of the engine via the oil filler cap and a short piece of clear plastic tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We added fresh fuel to a nearly empty tank and after coaxing a hibernating fuel pump back into action with a few bumps from a rubber hammer ! The exhilaration as this beautiful little engine burst into life emitting a familiar crackle from the albeit smokey exhaust before settling into its idle. Enjoy the thrill, Kit from Down Under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T17:52:45.450" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T17:52:45.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15915" CreationDate="2015-04-13T14:24:11.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is because bacteria live in your condition system, I'm from the  EU so I can't recommend you a good cleaner for air condition systems, but I think in any good shop the salesman will recommend. And replace the air cabin filter. It's good sometimes before turn off car turn on heater to max for some seconds to dry possible condensate (where bacteria lives).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es6EQNPXb2c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;There is a thousand videos on Youtube about this problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10101" LastEditorUserId="10101" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T17:18:07.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T17:18:07.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16358" CreationDate="2015-04-13T15:14:03.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sound similar to what I have experienced when there is rust or other &quot;crud&quot; in the bottom of the gas tank. Letting it get VERY low then filling it will stir up the &quot;crud&quot; and allow it to temporarily clog things up until it settles back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm if this is whats happening, try filling up before the fuel level drops below half a tank. Do that a few times and see if it improves. By not letting the tank drop below 1/2, you create a buffer that prevents the introduction of new gas from disturbing the &quot;crud&quot; that has settled in the bottom of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10066" LastEditorUserId="10066" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T23:02:09.123" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:02:09.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-13T17:48:23.890" Score="3" ViewCount="7797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictured below is the circuit board of the instrument cluster on my 2006 Toyota Yaris. The clock does not work and an electrician told me that the 4 transistors below were burnt and needed to be replaced. How can I find out what kind of transistors they are? I can't find any information how to identify them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrician told that 4 of them were burned - MK 5X. He says it's easy to replace them, but you have to know what they are. I called Toyota and they did't know. They just offered new instrument panel for 300+ Eur, but these transistors cost around 1 Euro. :D 4 of them are bad, red square was drawn before they were tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTff8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="0utf1t" LastEditorUserId="10104" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T21:24:13.107" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T09:08:22.847" Title="Clock inoperative, 2006 Toyota Yaris" Tags="|toyota|yaris|instrument-cluster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-13T19:04:04.083" Score="1" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just wondering... a friend told me that a faulty gas cap can cause air in the tank.. is that true? also, can that cause the check engine light to come on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10103" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T19:27:00.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T19:27:00.470" Title="Check Engine Light for bad gas cap" Tags="|emissions|gasoline|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-13T20:54:43.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16370" CreationDate="2015-04-13T19:14:06.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for reply!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave this to one electrician and he told but that 4 of them are burned. And he wanted quite a lot for replacement only because he knows what kind there are. Also I found topic with the same problem and the guy replaced them and clock was working, only he got these transistors from same circuit board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dashboard clock goes off&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10104" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T19:14:06.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16372" CreationDate="2015-04-13T19:26:06.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always some air in the tank.  The gas cap is part of the evaporative emission control system that is trying to prevent leaks of fuel vapor from escaping into the atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can cause the check engine light to come on.  If you have a code reader you can plug into your ODBII port in the cab of your car there are some common codes that get thrown related to the evaporative emission control system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0440&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0455&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0442&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T19:26:06.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16377" CreationDate="2015-04-13T15:33:10.583" Score="3" ViewCount="4410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car battery which is roughly 12 V. Sometimes, I will not use the car for a week (I bike instead), and the battery voltage drops to 9.5 V ~ 10 V. This low voltage makes it hard to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use another 12 V battery which is physically much smaller than the car battery to start it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kishore Vignesh" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T20:03:32.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:41:15.977" Title="Do all 12V batteries produce the same amount of current?" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16375" CreationDate="2015-04-13T15:40:32.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible. The small portable starter units have something like a 12V 22ah sealed lead-acid (SLA) battery inside. The battery has to be able to supply a lot of current to crank the engine, so many similar-sounding batteries are unsuitable for the task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your car battery is dying in a week, it's either on its last legs or there is something (a load that is not switched) draining it. I suggest you figure out what is going on and fix it. You should be able to leave the car for a month or two without problems. A new car battery is not much more expensive than a small SLA battery (just heavier). You can also get float chargers that maintain the battery- typically used by folks in cold climates who park a summer car over the winter and need to be able to start it in the spring after months in storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12112" OwnerDisplayName="Spehro Pefhany" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T15:40:32.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16375" CreationDate="2015-04-13T15:44:32.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different types of battery have different maximum currents they can supply. This is limited by their 'internal resistance.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage rating of a battery does not signify the current it is capable of supplying under different conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold cranking amps (CCA):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Generally speaking, it is easier to start an engine in a warm environment than in a cold environment. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reserve capacity (RC):&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RC is a general indicator of how long a new, fully charged battery can continue to operate essential accessories if the vehicle’s alternator fails. It identifies how many minutes the battery can deliver a constant current of 25 amps at 80°F without falling below the minimum voltage, 1.75 volts per cell, needed to keep your vehicle running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C20 capacity&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some premium batteries also define their C20 capacity in ampere-hour (Ah). C20 capacity is an indicator of how much energy is stored in a battery. It is the energy a battery can deliver continuously for 20 hours at 80°F without falling below 10.5 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JIm Dearden" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T15:44:32.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7662" CreationDate="2015-04-13T20:01:25.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Location&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's located between your throttle body and the manifold.&#xA;You would remove the air intake and the throttle body from the manifold to best accesss the EGR and clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Video&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQx_fx8VKY0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; cleaning of an EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) valve that is a similar model to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Supplies&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean the valve you will want&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;carb/brake cleaner to break down the carbon and unburnt hydro-carbons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;small wire/nylon brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;oil picks and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can of B-12 Carb cleaner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helpful.  Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T23:16:10.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16358" CreationDate="2015-04-13T21:35:32.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the tank is going to be completely filled the proper procedure is to allow the pump to shut off automatically. Add no more fuel after this initial shut off. Over filling the tank by filling to &quot;the brim&quot; can cause the evaporative emissions system to be damaged or rendered inoperative. The system is designed to control and process fuel vapor not liquid fuel. This may be the  cause of your hesitation. At your next fill up, fill the tank until the pump shut off and add no more. Let us know if this remedies the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T21:35:32.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16370" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:33:20.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are 22 ohm chip (or surface mount) resistors not transistors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may not be bad, Toyota Corollas had issues with the solder joint and you may only need to reheat the joint, or possibly need to add solder to them. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFwKA2dDb94&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this YouTube video on repairing the Corolla.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:33:20.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16375" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:41:15.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your other question, why do some lead acid batteries provide higher current than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the manufacturing process. High current lead acid batteries are built with thinner, higher surface area lead plates, while the higher capacity deep cycle batteries use thicker plates.  They both are 12 volts but provide different services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10107" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:41:15.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16385" CreationDate="2015-04-14T06:26:55.130" Score="7" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is with respect to non synchromesh, sequential transmission. Ducati along with several after market systems, implement clutchless downshifts by automatically applying a slight throttle to unload the gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ducati.com/bikes/superbike/superbike_1299_panigale/equipment/ducati_quick_shift_up_down__dqs_/index.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ducati Quick Shift up/down (DQS)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flatshifter.com/flatshifter-blip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flatshifter Blip Clutchless Downshift Kit&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand how clutchless upshifts work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For clutchless downshifts - while I understand the concept behind blipping the throttle while coasting, engine braking and hard braking helps unload the gear, I do not understand how how this could be achieved perfectly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to understand how this process is automated - timing, logical order of events etc. (&lt;strong&gt;Main question&lt;/strong&gt;)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I believe a sensor on the gear shifter (strain guage) gives input to the controller of the riders intention to downshift.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The controller slighty blips the throttle to unload the gear and engage the lower gear. The blip also helps in revving the newly engaged gear and possibly helps reduce RPM mismatch resulting in smoother engine braking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Am i correct in the above two statements? How is the amount of blip calculated (is it rev dependent or is it not so sensitive)? Is there any tendency to upset the bike (by working in opposition to braking)?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:04:32.527" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T00:51:56.323" Title="Clutchless Downshifts Using Throttle Blip on a Motorbike/Sequential Gearbox" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|shifting|ducati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T07:35:47.183" Score="6" ViewCount="11994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to the forum, and no mechanic, so please be kind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle in question is a 1999 T35 Renault Master 2.5 D. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has had first start issues  since I’ve owned it, with white smoke (un-burnt fuel I’m told) bellowing out of the exhaust when the van finally kicks into life after allowing the glow plugs to warm for 20+ seconds, regardless of ambient temperature. After it’s started once however it’ll start on the button all day long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I decided to do something about it, so perhaps naively got the glow plugs changed. Now it won’t start at all! Without the help of Easy Start anyway! I now understand that faulty plugs were unlikely the cause of the initial problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glow plugs appear to be all working and the relay appears to also be doing its job and intact (no breaks). The battery is also new and not a suspected cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So… I’ve trawled many forums and have a list together but I’m unsure which of these faults are (most) likely to be the cause and which order to try them in, or if there are other solutions I should be investigating. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Fuse for glow plugs is damaged or broken&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Glow plugs are giving a false positive reading and are actually not glowing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Temperature sensor is faulty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Coolant temperature sensor is faulty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Issue with starter motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Issue with fuel line or pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10111" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T20:01:38.083" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T21:57:12.003" Title="Diesel engine starting / first start of the day problems" Tags="|starting|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16383" CreationDate="2015-04-14T08:02:28.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ducati transmission type is a constant mesh sequential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a ride by wire system that controls the the throttle butterfly's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride by wire is necessary in order for the ECU to regulate power based upon various maps the rider can select.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Process&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutchless downshift is similar to the clutchless upshift in that it is essentially doing the opposite of the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt;  Foot depresses shift lever&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt;  Grounding switch detects beginning of shift&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.&lt;/strong&gt;  ECU sends signal to throttle body actuator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.&lt;/strong&gt;  Throttle body actuator momentarily opens butterfly in the throttle body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine receives enough fuel to momentarily unload force on dog and slot gear relationship in transmission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dog and slot in the gear relationship has force being transmitted through them unloaded and are now able to be separated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5.&lt;/strong&gt;  Riders continued depression of the shift lever forces the shift drum to begin to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6.&lt;/strong&gt;  Shift fork slides unloaded gear out of position/Other gear shift fork slides the next gear into position (these two events are occurring simultaneously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7.&lt;/strong&gt;  Butterfly closes in throttle body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8.&lt;/strong&gt;  Force from rear wheel that's transferred through the chain and the secondary shaft loads gear with force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9.&lt;/strong&gt;  Deceleration continues with engine braking engaged and the transmission under load again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T00:51:56.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16389" CreationDate="2015-04-14T12:15:42.203" Score="2" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPyIwY2hJ_A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; , the commentator said that the vehicle uses some kind of technology to keep the Motorcycle self-balanced. That means it won't fall over even with an outside impact force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my English is not very good, I could not hear the name of the technology.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T17:24:26.060" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:24:26.060" Title="What kind of technology is used to create this &quot;The Self Balancing Electric Motorcycle&quot;?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16388" CreationDate="2015-04-14T13:20:31.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle uses 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyroscope&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GYROSCOPES&lt;/a&gt; as seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/kPyIwY2hJ_A?t=44s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (same video) to stabilize the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Read up a little about the concept on the first link.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The key property that is being exploited here is the gyroscopic couple formation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A torque applied perpendicular to the axis of rotation of a spinning disc, and therefore perpendicular to the angular momentum vector, results in a rotation about an axis perpendicular to both the applied torque and Angular momentum. This would result in a motion called gyroscopic precession. &amp;lt;- this can be seen in the video when the person tries to topple the bike - notice the axis around which the discs automatically swivel. The discs , in this case are rotating in opposite orientations.&#xA;I failed to find intuitive videos explaining this, but here's one anyhow - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUgwaKebHTs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solving the Mystery of Gyroscopes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You have encountered the effect of gyroscopes when you roll a tire (or ride a bike).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Notice how it's easy to balance a rolling wheel? The rolling wheel is effectively a gyroscope. The weight of the wheel, which effectively provides an unsettling torque depending on which side the wheel is leaning towards, will cause the wheel to turn instead of falling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've written this in haste, and would urge you to read up on the fundamentals (Rotational Mechanics) before delving on the admittedly non intuitive effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T13:20:31.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T15:09:12.553" Score="13" ViewCount="37350" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX that is around 130k miles now. In Las Vegas, I put E10 (I hadn't known what it was before this...), and had to get it fixed. The engine light had started blinking and my car had started shaking (similarly to how it would feel when the cylinders mis-fire) in less than 2 minutes of driving the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic in LV cleaned out the fuel lines, pumped out the gas from my fuel tank, drained my engine of the bad fuel, replaced the fuel pump and filter, replaced all 4 fuel injectors, and had to replace my distributor (because it had burned out...). The repairs were good enough to get me 400 miles away from Las Vegas (back to my home in CA), and it's been over a week since the incident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 3 days ago, my car started shaking again and the engine light started blinking. I immediately pulled over and called a tow truck to take it to my mechanics. By the time my mechanic got to look at it yesterday morning, the car wasn't showing any signs of shaking at all. He let me take it back that day, and I drove it around a bit with no problems. But obviously, there's a problem somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time when it started shaking again, my gas tank had been down to 1/4. Do you think there could still be remnants of the E10 gas in my tank? I'm really at a loss of what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend suggested that I fill my tank with premium gas for a tank or two to flush it out. Would that hurt my car? I typically fuel with 87 octane and my manual says that 85 is the minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also suggested that I try using seafoam. But I don't know what it is and it sounds intimidating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would greatly appreciate any advice I can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10119" LastEditorUserId="10119" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T15:22:11.337" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T19:18:17.107" Title="I accidentally fueled my car with E10 (10% ethanol). What should I do next?" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|civic|ethanol|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16390" CreationDate="2015-04-14T15:34:51.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is unrelated to the use of E10. Almost all, if not all modern vehicles can use E10. Concentrations above 10% Ethanol, E15 for example can cause problems in cars not designed for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is a misfire, and it's likely cause is in the ignition side. Spark plugs, wires, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for history codes, if your check engine light was flashing it stored codes that can help us further diagnose your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T15:34:51.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16390" CreationDate="2015-04-14T17:28:52.027" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that the original problem was not the use of E10 (the vast majority of all gas sold in the US is E10 fuel due to federal mandate), but rather you received a ration of &lt;em&gt;bad gas&lt;/em&gt; which probably had water in it, or was old gas (had been sitting for a while without new gas infused in the mix). I don't think there are any remnants of the bad gas in your tank, especially after the first mechanic pulled all of the fuel out of your tank, then you ran 400 miles on at least one refuel after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My friend suggested that I fill my tank with premium gas for a tank or two to flush it out. Would that hurt my car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While premium fuel won't hurt your car, it won't help it either. In fact, it will probably lower your fuel mileage while using it. Higher octane fuel doesn't burn as well as lower octane fuel. The general rule of thumb is to use the lowest octane fuel your car can handle. This will help your pocket book as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He also suggested that I try using seafoam. But I don't know what it is and it sounds intimidating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafoam is nothing to be afraid of, as I've stated many times before. Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/15663/4152&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt; on the subject. It may help your vehicle out and is a relatively cheap way to clean things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:28:52.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16396" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:03:03.490" Score="5" ViewCount="1591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused with this, are there any combustion gasses in the carter and why do they need to be filtered?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the Carter gas filter, where is it located and what is its use?&#xA;Is there a way to estimate if it is for change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram showing where it is located on BMW engine:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJGw5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8iY2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really can't understand what it is for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas like combustion gasses, not like benzine(gas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T09:18:07.080" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T09:18:07.080" Title="What is the Carter Gas Filter for?" Tags="|engine|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16384" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:07:59.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eliminate the obvious first.  Your van started with the old glow plugs (although with some effort), but it doesn't start at all with the new ones (without Easy Start--by the way, please don't use any kind of starting fluid on a diesel engine--it can cause serious damage).  Can you put the old glow plugs back in and see if it goes back to the way it was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect either a bad batch of new glow plugs (it happens), the wrong spec glow plugs for the engine, or they were misinstalled (cross threading or not being torqued correctly can cause air leaks, hence poor compression which will keep any diesel from starting even if everything else is perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that letting the glow run for twenty seconds made a difference in starting with the old plugs, suggests that at least some of them are still good.  The fact that the first start of the day after that glow period produced a lot of white smoke suggests in turn that some of them are bad.  Instead of swapping them around and guessing, measure the current draw between the relay and each plug in turn while turning the ignition to the glow position.  You'll need an ammeter with a current scale that reads over 10 amps DC.  If you were in the USA I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-72-7725-/72-7725&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this multimeter&lt;/a&gt;; I don't know what's available where you are.  Measuring the resistance of the plugs out of the engine is not a reliable test; if they are open (infinite resistance) it tells you that they're bad, but you can't tell if they're good without testing &lt;em&gt;in situ&lt;/em&gt; for a steady high current draw during the glow cycle (peaking at 12-15A or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After resolving any issues with the glow system, you can turn your attention to the other candidates you mentioned, which are both more difficult to diagnose, and also unlikely to have coincidentally occurred at the same time as the glow plugs were renewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Addendum: Let us know in the comments how this part went, and I'll try to help with next steps if needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T00:23:40.157" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T00:23:40.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16393" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:42:26.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Since you aren't talking about an ancient fuel filter, I'll change my answer ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be BMW's version of a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. It's purpose is to pull gasses which have passed by the piston rings and into the crankcase and force them back through the intake system to be burnt. It doesn't necessarily filter the gases. Gasses left in the crank case cause several problems: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel mixes with the oil and contaminates it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These gases exhaust into the atmosphere and cause pollution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can cause carbon buildup and varnish within the crankcase area of the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming this is what the part does mainly due to where the tubes run to. Most American cars use one tube which runs to the top of the engine (valve cover). Yours is shown to pull it from both the valve cover and by the dip stick tube, but performs the same function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T21:14:52.253" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T21:14:52.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16607" CreationDate="2015-04-15T02:48:43.073" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I was experiencing coolant leaks in between the engine block and the wheel on the passenger side. This only occurs after the car has been driven aggressively and once the car slightly overheated (around 60 - 75%) due to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FYI&lt;/strong&gt; Prior to this issue, I was having a major radiator leak and I replaced the radiator. This also, I got to know after the car overheated badly and stalled. The mechanic said there is no symptom of a blown head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a &lt;strong&gt;2003 Mitsubishi Galant (4g63 2.0L sohc non turbo) RHD&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just need to verify the most likely areas this leak might come from you experts before I take it to the garage so that I can be 100% sure he is not ripping me off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first car and I sometimes miss these routine checks. I have now learnt my lesson the hard way :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T13:24:25.737" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T03:21:53.163" Title="Coolant leak - 4g63 sohc 2.0L non turbo" Tags="|coolant|mitsubishi|leak|overheating|galant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T05:59:17.237" Score="4" ViewCount="8401" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fastest lap time set at the Nürburgring is 6:11:13, set by Stefan Bellof in 1983. It had 630HP and weighed 850kg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/n-rburgring-record-hunters-dawn-porsche-956-and-918-spyder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Article on the 956&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_N%C3%BCrburgring_Nordschleife_lap_times#Qualifying&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nürburgring Lap Times - Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we have lighter, faster cars now. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGGiuaQwcd8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chassis and wheels are being made with carbon fiber&lt;/a&gt;, electronics are better and faster and smaller and lighter, 1200+ HP is possible in racing engines with perfectly tuned sequential fuel injection, and we have &lt;em&gt;30 additional years&lt;/em&gt; of technology, materials science and automobile engineering, and yet the 1983 record still stands and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://jalopnik.com/5599675/what-the-pagani-zonda-rs-insane-nurburgring-record-really-means&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagani Zonda R made headlines when it ran 6:47:5&lt;/a&gt;. Over 36 seconds slower, with 32 years of time lapse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on here? I understand that safety regulations and racing rules may prevent an in-race lap that beats the time, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Nordschleife_lap_times_(racing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;of all laps, with all cars timed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; the record still stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why hasn't this record been squashed, and why is it light-years ahead in lap times to everything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:27:16.677" Title="Why hasn't anyone beat the 6:11:13 Nürburgring Record set in 1983?" Tags="|porsche|track|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-04-15T18:04:19.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16398" CreationDate="2015-04-15T08:15:49.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, the Porsche 956 made use of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_effect_(cars)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;underbody ground-effects&lt;/a&gt; which modern-day challengers do not utilize to the same extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'Ring is a very technical circuit. The lap times are not going to be governed solely on raw power; cornering speed is key. Ground effects gives so much grip that in the words of one '70s F1 driver, you can &quot;paint the road&quot; with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the combined impact of modern-day technology and ground-effects is expected to be better than whatever was technically possible three decades ago, we need to remember that '70s-esque ground effects is outlawed by most, if not all, racing regulations because it is deemed too dangerous (and a little &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; effective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T14:49:14.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T14:49:14.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16398" CreationDate="2015-04-15T08:45:48.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what already has been said by @Zaid, it could be added that,&#xA;there hasn't been any revolutionary technological breakthrough in engine (internal combustion, jet propulsion or rocket) industry for half a century, even more. All the updates are small, evolutionary, iterations mainly connected with close looped, micro-controlled,  electrical circuits optimizing the existent designs. In addition to that drivers' life actually became relevant and protected by ridiculously great amount of safety regulations, further impeding performance.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T08:45:48.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16473" CreationDate="2015-04-15T09:32:50.717" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have &lt;code&gt;225/50R16&lt;/code&gt; run flat tyres on my BMW 3 series 320d E90 (2006) and I am looking to get some new alloys. I'm looking at getting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/bbs/sr/grey/16-inch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;16 Inch BBS SR alloys&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a width of &lt;code&gt;7J&lt;/code&gt; and an offset of &lt;code&gt;35 to 48&lt;/code&gt;, but is this ok for the size tyres I currently have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could explain how you calculated/got to the answer that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any helps appreciated, Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10127" LastEditorUserId="10127" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T10:23:39.283" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T09:00:20.470" Title="Will my tyres fit?" Tags="|bmw|wheels|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16398" CreationDate="2015-04-15T11:36:32.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 1983 there was a bypass where the GP track was being built giving a slightly faster circuit when the record was set but more importantly in 1984 Nürburgring grand prix circuit was opened so racing takes place there instead and for safety reasons racing cars, inc F1, etc do not run at full speed on the old track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road legal cars are edging ever closer to the record, they will beat it eventually. Don't forget that tyres play a major part in race performance. It is pretty amazing that they can even be so close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not that cars are not faster because of ground effects. Various types of &lt;strong&gt;modern track cars &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; beat the record&lt;/strong&gt; unmodified if they were allowed to make an attempt. This was shown in 2007 when Nick Heidfeld ran F1 demo laps which were only slower than the record because of slowing down for photo ops.  If you take the time for parts of each of the 3 laps without slowing and stitch them together he would have beaten the record by almost a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://der-nordschleife.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/nick-heidfeld-made-history-on-28-april.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://der-nordschleife.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/nick-heidfeld-made-history-on-28-april.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10132" LastEditorUserId="10132" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T14:20:51.537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T14:20:51.537" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T12:41:13.270" Score="3" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed this morning that one of my tire pressure dropped a little bit. The others are 34psi, but the front right tire is only 30psi, I checked them only few days ago, they were the same at that time. This happened before and I think it will keep dropping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My regular car maintainance has been scheduled on Saturday, can I still drive to work (~ 40miles daily) for three days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10133" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T09:13:31.453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T09:13:31.453" Title="Can I still drive my car when one of the tires has lower pressure?" Tags="|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16403" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:07:37.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Ideally you wouldn't want to drive too fast. If you have a front wheel drive or rear wheel drive, you could swop the tire with another so that it's not one of the driving wheels. This is to protect your differential from getting too hot and being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 4wd or 4x4, it's more important that all wheels are inflated equally and that their circumference are all close to the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, &lt;strong&gt;a difference of 4psi isn't that severe&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: if you want to really cover all your bases, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/tools/tire-inflators.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get a mobile compressor like one of these (for example) to carry around in your trunk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T13:07:37.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16398" CreationDate="2015-04-15T13:20:57.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After all the hand waving and posturing, allow me to point out that the track was a whole 2 kilometers shorter when the 956 set that time. Also, those 2km were a technical part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, one should also take into account the fact that the Porsche 956 weighed only 800kg. That's lighter than a Fiat Uno Mia. No supercar today weighs less than a ton (more like 1200kg). The Pagani Zonda R has a similar peak horsepower and kind of has the same construction as the Porsche 956 (monocoque suspension, center engine, RWD), but it weighs 400kg more. The Zonda weighs half a 956 more, and any racing driver will tell you than even 10kg will make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBMyT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T16:08:09.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T16:08:09.580" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19003" CreationDate="2015-04-15T15:39:06.203" Score="5" ViewCount="3029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finished rebuilding the engine of my motorcycle (4 stroke 650cc single-cylinder). For now it runned only once varying between 1000 and 2000 RPM for 5 minutes with a couple of short bursts after fully heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Motorex Semi-Synthetic Formula 10W40 oil for that. Now I'm reading various sources of information about how further break-in should be done and am a bit afraid because everyone seems to agree that rings will never seat properly with modern semi-synth oil. It is advised to use conventional oil during first maybe 1000 miles of engine life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have an experience of succesfull break-in with semi-synthetic or synthetic oil? Should I replace the oil with a conventional one immediately? How likely is that these 5-6 minutes with a semi-synth oil have already caused trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7257" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:50:37.440" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T13:02:43.883" Title="Semi synthetic oil engine break-in" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:36:58.383" Score="4" ViewCount="5843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1982 Mercedes W123 with a 2L gas engine. I have noticed some weirdness with the oil pressure and want to know if this is an indication of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I am driving at 60km/h and the engine is hot. The oil pressure sits somewhere between 2 and 3. If I step on the gas, the oil pressure immediately decreases a bit (a noticeable move of the needle, though since I am driving at the time I cannot look at it for longer to determine how much exactly it moved) and then increases as the engine RPM increases. If I release the gas pedal, the oil pressure immediately increases, then decreases as the car slows down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I I not think I have noticed it before. Is this an indication of some problem or just normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T07:07:08.770" Title="Oil pressure decresases when I step on the gas" Tags="|engine|oil|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:50:34.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your car overheat too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you could have a faulty thermostat, an air pocket in your cooling system or maybe even a leak somewhere.  My truck's heat would only work while I was driving, then stopped working altogether while the engine started to overheat. I changed the thermostat, then the heat would blow hot/cold/hot/cold, I didn't realize you had to bleed the air out of the system after changing the thermostat. I did that and now the heater and engine run great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10141" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T23:54:40.687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T23:54:40.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16412" CreationDate="2015-04-16T05:19:12.953" Score="7" ViewCount="71793" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 VW GTI MkIV recently had the airbag warning indicator light turn on. The VW dealership wanted to charge around $600 to fix it. They told me the seatbelt latch was at fault because it had an intermittent connection issue, so I bought a new one and replaced it myself. The dealer then reset the fault code and the light turned off. However, as soon as a slid my seat to adjust it, the light came right back on. What's the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2018-04-29T21:30:02.723" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T18:51:57.273" Title="VW Mk4 Golf/GTI airbag indicator warning light" Tags="|vw|wiring|golf|supplemental-restraint-system|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16411" CreationDate="2015-04-16T05:19:12.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car to a different VW shop (not the dealership) and they fixed the problem for $160, but if I'd known the solution was just to solder the wires directly together, I could have fixed it myself. I did however, learn what the problem was thanks to them and I'll share the solution here. VW apparently knows about this issue and supposedly offers special repair kits for it. I think it applies to all the VW mk4 Jetta/Golf/GTI because they use the same connectors. The fault-code can be thrown simply by moving/sliding the front seats because the electrical connection in the wires below the front seats are poor. The intermittent connection fault-code is (usually) due to high electrical resistance in the connectors themselves. The pins have loose contact or have dirt/corrosion from oxidization, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution is to solder each of the wires directly to their partners, bypassing the 2 yellow plastic connectors altogether (see image below). Of course, you won't be able to swap out your seat for a new one as easily, but if you're planning to keep the same seats forever this fix is very cheap, requires no electrical resistors, and still maintains the original manufacturer functionality (if your belt isn't fastened, the airbag won't deploy). This method solved the problem in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm having the same fault-code appear with the passenger-side seat (I knew it was only a matter of time) and I'll be fixing it myself. The procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disconnect the car battery.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snip off the 2 yellow plastic connectors related to the seat belt, but remember which wires are paired together! (See image below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder the 4 wires to their matching colors, be sure to properly insulate each of the wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap the whole bundle of 4 wires together to help prevent future fatigue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reconnect the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset the fault code (a VAG-COM KKL 409.1 USB Interface diagnostic cable can do this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was indeed the cause of your intermittent resistance and everything was done correctly then the warning light should stay OFF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery side - belt buckle side (see image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown - brown (driver seat only)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yellow - green (driver seat only)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown - blue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;red - yellow (red is purple on passenger seat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that two of the wires are brown on the battery side for the driver seat. It's possible that they both go directly to the same &quot;ground&quot;, but to be safe, try not to mix them up accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Driver side:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASLF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Solder wires driver&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Passenger side:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScoE2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;[Solder wires passenger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="10145" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T21:07:54.923" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T21:07:54.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16414" CreationDate="2015-04-16T10:59:10.810" Score="12" ViewCount="314948" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend accidentally let the battery in his car run out by leaving the car lights on. He managed to get it going again with a jump start, but he wasn't sure how long he'd have to drive to ensure that the car would have enough battery to start again later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He ended up driving around for quite some time just to try to ensure that he was safe - but how long is really necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10148" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T07:30:09.980" Title="Charging battery after a jump start" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16413" CreationDate="2015-04-16T12:29:28.620" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question really is what the voltage was just before the jump start. A jump start is nothing more than get the engine running from another battery. If the engine runs again, the alternator/dynamo will charge the partly depleted battery again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody can tell how long you need to drive to get the battery fully loaded again, as this depends on the state of the battery (old battery might need longer charging time), weather conditions (warm weather + warm engine = faster charging time), the !very dynamic! throttle position (high revs = more engine turns = more dynamo turns = faster charging), type of dynamo (big one = faster charging), electricity running from the battery (lights - A/C - fans - radio,..) , and finally type of engine (diesel engine = less load on battery while the engine runs = quicker charging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure you get the battery all juiced up prior to shutting of the engine, you need to turn all electricity off - lights - A/C - fans - radio etc.. Then you could either leave the car running on the driveway, or take it for a spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to get in the car and drive for at least about half an hour - again totally depending on the depletion level - , while taking the things above into account. If you come back from your joyride -please- don't test if the car starts again  and shut it off immedeately afterwards. This temporary huge load on the battery might leave it with just too less juice for your next start. Instead, just leave the car as is and hope the next time it will start again when you need to use your car :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="10048" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T12:34:52.900" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T12:34:52.900" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16330" CreationDate="2015-04-16T13:53:48.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar issue with a different car, the issue with mine was a blown capacitor on my headunit, it turned off, and then randomly on. If you're not an electrician / technically minded then easiest route would be to just buy a second hand part and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T13:53:48.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T16:58:50.663" Score="3" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Nissan Maxima 2000.  Over the past 2 or 3 days I am observing a strange problem with my transmission. Once I start the vehicle, I place my foot on the brake and try to engage drive, the shift handle doesn't move. I know when pressing the brake pedal its supposed to give a signal to the transmission whether its safe to engage or not.  I was not able to hear the click sound even though I pressed very hard on the brake pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help, if there is anything else here on the board.  I do not want to spend a large amount of cash to resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T07:49:12.740" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T07:49:12.740" Title="Transmission not shifting from park" Tags="|transmission|nissan|maxima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16417" CreationDate="2015-04-16T19:32:28.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the brake switch is on its way out. This is essentially a solenoid switch which is supposed to disengage the lock on your shifter when you press the brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Maxima has enough in common with the models I know, there should be a button labeled 'Transmission Lock' next to the shifter that you can press to manually release the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The release may be hidden under a small plastic cover. With a small flat blade screwdriver remove the small cover. Insert the screwdriver in the hole to release the shifter lock. Beware that the brake lights may not work. It may be worth checking for a blown fuse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oS8R3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shifter Lock Release&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T07:43:06.330" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T07:43:06.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T23:57:12.840" Score="4" ViewCount="3517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out what the vacuum hose that attaches to some sort of assembly underneath the EGR on a 1997 Ford Escort with a 2.0 Split Port 2000 engine connects.  It is attached to the assembly under the EGR (or maybe it's the idle air control valve that is sitting above where it's connected), but the other end either broke off or came off and blind searching has resulted in no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vacuum hose diagram would be appreciated, but the ones I've found haven't been very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Rewrote the post as a question instead of a request for a resource to make it align better with SE Q/A format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10154" LastEditorUserId="10154" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T23:55:03.283" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:23:52.517" Title="What does the vacuum hose below the EGR assembly on a 1997 Ford Escort attach to at either end?" Tags="|ford|escort|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16432" CreationDate="2015-04-17T00:16:59.763" Score="4" ViewCount="26108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Honda civic with a D16Z6 engine. I was trying to check the timing on the car, and wanted to get the engine to TDC. There were a few marks on the cam gear. There was no up pointing arrow, so I was unsure on which I should use. The linked picture shows the 3 marks at the top. One is a red dot. The other marks are at the bottom with some ticks and a dial looking thing. It lines up with a little notch at the bottom of the timing belt cover so I was thinking that may be the marker. There were also no little marks on the crankcase nut by the bottom of the car. Any help would be nice! Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oa8na.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OPs image download&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:56:48.007" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T20:18:27.540" Title="95 Honda civic timing marks" Tags="|honda|civic|timing-belt|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:08:00.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 300 miles on my second water pump. They had to put another one in.  6 months on the 4th water pump.  Had it replaced today under warranty and its noisy.  I pointed it out to mechanic an hour after taking the car home.  I suspect I'll be on number 6 by the end of the month.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10155" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T07:51:28.603" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T07:51:28.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16424" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:59:11.410" Score="2" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given 4 symmetric tyres, assume the central tread is set like this,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;front axle  v   ^&#xA;rear  axle  v   ^&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid layout ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10156" LastEditorUserId="10156" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T06:39:03.847" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T06:44:35.757" Title="Symmetric tyres with tread reversed in each side of the axle" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11815" CreationDate="2015-04-17T02:58:19.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, the sound came from the rear brake pads which had completely worn away down to the metal backing. Once I replaced the rear pads and rotors (which had significant scoring) the sound went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6706" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T02:58:19.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16422" CreationDate="2015-04-17T06:44:35.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your tyres are symmetric, you don't have a &quot;outside&quot; or &quot;inside&quot; marking on the wall of the tyre. You will also notice there is no driving direction indicated on the wall of the tyre. (info): On non-symmetric tyres it is important to maintain the driving direction and outside/inside markings that are indicated for the wear of the tyres as well as your safety in slippery conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely on the tread your symmetric tyres, you will notice the most outside tread  will be the same. This means that if you place your tyre right up and rotate it for 180degrees, you will see the exact same pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact the name &quot;symmetric&quot; says it all and indicates that the inside/outside, nor the rotational direction matter as the tyre is desinged in such a way that it wears the same in each direction. The grip on the road will be the same for whatever placement of the tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(info): the tread on the symmetric tyres (manufacturing year 2013) I've got on my vehicle right now is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LF: \|\\|\         RF: \|\\|\&#xA;LR: \|\\|\         RR: \|\\|\&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can change the tyres either way around and the flow direction of water on the road will always be to the right of the vehicle (thus off the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T06:44:35.757" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16420" CreationDate="2015-04-17T07:40:58.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest issue that your are potentially having is the aftermarket cam sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock sprocket has an UP mark with to horizontal markers that you align to the valve cover surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZD61A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T07:40:58.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T14:27:46.163" Score="1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I control engine temp with a thermostat or with a cooling fan temp sensor for on/off of cooling fan?&#xA;I am installing a Tri cross flow alum radiator with full alum shroud and a special 16 inch high flow (2500 CFM electric fan) with temp probe settings of&#xA;on at 195 degrees and off at 170. I think this will regulate engine temps&#xA;even in stop/go hot weather and with use of A/C. My main question is should&#xA;I also use a thermostat in the cooling system if Yes then why??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10158" LastEditorUserId="10158" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T19:48:17.453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T19:48:17.453" Title="Best way to control engine cooling?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-19T14:14:31.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16428" CreationDate="2015-04-17T15:05:08.517" Score="2" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a Pioneer FH-X720BT CD receiver in my vehicle. I did not install the external microphone that came with it as I didn't want a wire hanging around, and I assumed that the microphone on my phone would work. However, when my phone is connected via bluetooth, I can answer calls and hear the caller through the speakers, but they cannot hear me, almost as if the receiver is trying to use the microphone even though it's not hooked up. Must I hook up the external microphone that it came with to make phone calls? Or is there a setting on the phone or receiver I need to change? My phone is a OnePlus One (Android 4.4.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="151" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:26:46.347" Title="New CD Receiver requires the microphone for Bluetooth audio?" Tags="|audio|wiring|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16427" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:26:46.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, the phone is only used as a conduit or a means by which the stereo acts as the mouth (speakers) and ears (mic) through the bluetooth connection. You'll &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to hook up the microphone in order for it to work, because that's what the stereo is expecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to find a spot which is innocuous and run the mic to that spot. It should be fairly easy to hide the wire through any of many different avenues in the dash or upholstery to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:26:46.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:48:53.700" Score="0" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently did a head gasket change and once it was done found out the engine didn't want to start anymore. Diagnosed it a bit, and found out the timing was off about a tooth on the cam gear. I was told to remove the gear, and rotate it a bit, but I was wondering how else could I reset the timing, or change it a bit. Would I have to untension it and rotate the cam? Any suggestions or help appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:48:53.700" Title="95 Honda civic reset timing" Tags="|honda|civic|troubleshooting|timing-belt|timing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-18T19:38:00.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16420" CreationDate="2015-04-17T17:34:53.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotate the engine so the timing hashes on the VMS cam gear are straight up. Ensure piston #1 is at TDC by checking on the timing mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the mark on the timing cover. There are four marks on the timing cover. Use the one to the right (by itself):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o7VXI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from CRX Community&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should look like this when aligned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBwxZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from CRX Community&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now go back to your timing gear. First, ensure your hash timing marks are set straight-up (without &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;R&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; etard or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; dvance). If it shows either side of dead center, adjust it. The timing gear looks as though it has several different marks on it from your picture. The one you should be looking at should be near the 7 O'clock position (on the bottom, just slightly offset to the left). Align this mark with the mark at the bottom left of this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WB4L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure the two alignment marks are lined up. You'll probably have to pull the timing belt and get it to the right tooth, which I'm assuming it isn't already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give this a shot as it should leave you in good shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T21:07:00.757" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:07:00.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16419" CreationDate="2015-04-17T18:14:27.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For future reference, Autozone is actually great at this. They charge for membership to be able to access this information, but if you're able to aqquire a link to the specific page you need it will allow you to view all the information. BUT, if you navigate to a new page from there it will ask you to log in or sign up as a member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically I think you're supposed to pay for it but they left it exposed. You can even find these diagrams in Google images, so I don't feel like it's wrong to post the image. Search for &quot;autozone repair guide ford escort vacuum diagram&quot; has turned up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Escort-Tracer-1991-1999-Repair-Guide/VACUUM-DIAGRAMS/VACUUM-DIAGRAMS/_/P-0900c1528008dcf6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which lists the diagrams of different engines/configurations from 1991-1999. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging from that page, the following diagram (which can also be found as the first image on Google images from the query &quot;97 ford escort vacuum diagram&quot;) is correct. I believe the reason there is only one for the 1997 year is because they only used the 2.0 in that year. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wQtQT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4330" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T18:14:27.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8255" CreationDate="2015-04-17T18:35:22.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't find a solution that is acceptable to me, but I came close.  What I ended up doing is to suck the water out of the tank with a shop vac.  I filled the tank and emptied with the shopvac several times to help get the sediment out.  This still left about 1/2 cup of water in the tank.  I couldn't get a vacuum attachment appropriately shaped to get the rest of the water out, so I got a hand-operated siphon pump to get as much water out as I could from the fill hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T18:35:22.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16195" CreationDate="2015-04-17T19:02:05.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After consultation with a BMW forum, an expert in MS S52 reverse-engineering &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/240585-comprehensive-mss52-dme-information-28.html#post5755481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;had this to say&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As for why BMW has multiple knock maps - it's probably just because&#xA;  they could. Their engineers probably also experimentally determined&#xA;  what the signals look like when the engine is knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T19:02:05.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:08:42.637" Score="0" ViewCount="3516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mercedes Benz GL450.  When I start the car in the morning it makes a squeaking noise. After driving the car for a few minutes the sound goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T18:24:43.803" LastActivityDate="2018-04-05T04:39:31.080" Title="Mercedes Benz GL450 Squeaking noise when cold start" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16438" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:15:23.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a bad battery (low voltage), bad tensioner pulley (not allowing for proper grip on the alternator), or worn out serpentine belt. This is of course considering, one - it has a serpentine belt, and two - the noise you are talking about is a squeal on start-up (could also be a chirping noise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine first starts up, it requires a lot of juice from the battery. After it's started, the alternator starts replacing the juice which was used to get the battery back up to snuff. If the belt is slipping for the two reasons it will chirp/squeal. If the battery is getting bad, it could chirp/squeal because the alternator is working overtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:15:23.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16920" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:39:08.260" Score="4" ViewCount="2686" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a uni-body frame is bent or distorted there is a limitation to how much damage can be repaired and have the frame retain at least some of it's initial integrity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, the procedure to actually straighten the frame, from what I understand, is actually a component of the limitation to repair the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain the procedure and mechanisms used in the frame straightening process as well as the limitations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does a technician that is charged with straightening the frame measure whether or not the frame can be repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T20:37:37.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T20:37:37.990" Title="Unibody Frame - Straightening Procedure and Limitations" Tags="|alignment|frame|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:06:28.127" Score="4" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small chip in my windshield I got today driving home from work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's less than the size of a dime, with a bit of surface damage and some small cracks (which appear to be subsurface? hard to tell from visual and touching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading online makes me believe this is a relatively straightforward repair, so long as the chip is away from the &quot;edge of windshield.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is never clear what &quot;edge&quot; actually is, literally on the edge? Close to the edge? The chip in mine is at closest 4+ inches away from the edge of my windshield - I assume this is repairable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming so, how complicated is it to repair it myself? It is completely not in my field of view and so a subpar repair job isn't necessarily the end of the world, so long as the problems are visual only and not structural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:11:16.053" Title="Windshield chip - what constitutes &quot;edge&quot; of windshield and can I DIY this?" Tags="|windshield|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16443" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:36:23.280" Score="3" ViewCount="10331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just plugged a lawn mower tire with one of the rope plugs + rubber cement.  How long should I wait before I reinflate and re-test for leaks?  Hour, longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2141" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:04:19.917" Title="How long after plugging a tire before I test it?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16442" CreationDate="2015-04-18T00:04:19.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As soon as I put the plug in and cut it off flush with the tread, I will fill the tire. I've never had one come out or have a problem ... and I've done &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:04:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16441" CreationDate="2015-04-18T00:11:16.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have to have enough space to put the suction cup at the center of the chip. I would think 4&quot; should be more than enough ... I'm pretty sure the suction cup is usually around 5&quot; (or 2.5&quot; radius). I'm assuming from what you've said, this is a &quot;bulls-eye&quot;. I've never done the repair myself, but for the cost of having a professional do it, I haven't worried about it. Especially since most insurance companies cover the cost of chip repair without a deductible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however you choose to do the repair yourself, I believe it is very straight forward. A couple of things. You need to ensure the suction cup is &lt;em&gt;well&lt;/em&gt; seated and can draw a vacuum. Also ensure the chipped area is clean. Use a razor blade perpendicular to the windshield to scrape off the excess resin. Just be careful and take your time and you shouldn't have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:11:16.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-18T00:12:11.547" Score="-3" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know what could be draining my battery in my 1997 Chevrolet Silverado&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10163" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T00:14:15.987" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T01:21:33.823" Title="what could be draining my battery on my Chevrolet Silverado" Tags="|battery|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-19T14:12:06.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16445" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:21:33.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it could be the alternator. it could not be charging the battery because it could be seize up or the belt on the alternator could not be rotating the alternator to charge the battery. it might even be a bad battery. it could be alot of things. it could even be an electrical problem where something is shorting out and draining the battery. we would need more information to trim down the reasons why it is draining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T01:21:33.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16438" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:24:07.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is most likely the serpentine belt being bad or could have some kind of fluid on it that is making the squealing. most likely the serpentine belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T01:24:07.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16453" CreationDate="2015-04-18T11:24:22.073" Score="5" ViewCount="29687" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do the numbers and letters in a motor oil specification mean? For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0w-30&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5w-40&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10w-20&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which values are better&lt;/strong&gt;? Also, sometimes there are additional letters and numbers afterward like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5w-30 &lt;strong&gt;C3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0w-40 &lt;strong&gt;A3/B4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing which to use in a car, do the small differences mean much? These last two are specifically the ones Castrol recommended for a VW GTI 1.8T Mk4 (180hp), but your answers don't need to be specific to that car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T22:36:06.720" Title="What do the numbers on motor oil specifications mean?" Tags="|oil|motors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2015-04-18T18:27:32.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the numbers, &lt;strong&gt;use what your vehicle manufacturer recommends&lt;/strong&gt;. There is a reason your manufacturer recommends a viscosity, the main reason is, &lt;strong&gt;the engine is built a certain way and &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; that viscosity&lt;/strong&gt;. If you put a heavier weight oil in the engine than what is called for, your engine will not get the oil in a quantity it needs, nor in places it needs it. It also drags the engine down some and causes additional wear/stress on the internal engine parts which run the oil pump. If there gets to be too much pressure at the relief valve, some of the oil is bypassed and is not being used to lubricate the engine. None of these things are good. If you put a lower viscosity oil in then the engine was designed for, your engine will lack the pressure it needs to get the oil to all the places it needs to be. For both of these scenarios, there is a domino effect which will increase wear. You may not see it right away, but it will affect the longevity of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;what do the numbers mean&lt;/em&gt; ... &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/12701/4152&quot;&gt;this post should explain it all&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T18:27:32.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15565" CreationDate="2015-04-18T18:52:34.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generalized statements about the gaps being too small causing insufficient burn and too wide having a weak spark are spot on. As you widen the gap, you need to increase voltage to cover the gap. Also, as you increase pressure at the top of the compression cycle, you'll need to either increase the voltage output to the spark plug and/or reduce the gap of the spark plug. If you don't, the spark will not jump the gap as efficiently and therefor you won't get the best performance out of your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.custom-car.us/ignition/spark-plug/gap.aspx&quot;&gt;if this&lt;/a&gt; will &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; answer your question, but is about the best I've found thus far (if I find more, I'll add to it), but it makes a lot of sense to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a rule, a properly gapped spark plug will burn hot without being too wide at high rpm to cause a misfire. Ironically, &lt;strong&gt;the car manufacturer's recommended spark plug gap is not optimal!&lt;/strong&gt; The recommended spark plug gap is designed to be adequate for cold starting and smooth driving on a car that is in need of an engine tune up. &lt;strong&gt;If you drive your car normally and tune the engine regularly, you can increase the spark plug gap by about 0.010&quot; for better performance and better fuel economy.&lt;/strong&gt; However, if you drive at &lt;strong&gt;full throttle most of the time, you should reduce the gap by about 0.010&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; for better performance. The spark plug itself, and the residue that forms on it, would indicate whether the gap is too big or too small. A light brownish discoloration of the tip of to porcelain insulator indicates the proper operation of the spark plugs with the gap being ideal or close to ideal for the most recent engine speeds. Thus, to check the spark plug gap at high engine speeds, you'd need to run at full throttle and immediately turn the ignition off without allowing the engine to idle. But ultimately, you'd need to run your car on a dynamometer to find the best spark plug gap, and the right ignition timing for your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot more information on the page which gives indication about how the gap affects things, so it's worth a read in my book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, though, the &lt;em&gt;ultimate&lt;/em&gt; gap range for one vehicle is going to be different than it will be for another. As is stated at the end of the excerpt, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you'd need to run your car on a dynamometer to find the best spark plug gap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Any given car is going to be different. Some manufacturers may have the optimal gap set, while others will be a lot more conservative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, I've not found any empirical data which shows exactly what the difference is between gaps on any given vehicle, but as I've stated, every vehicle line is going to be different anyway. This makes it hard to come to a strict conclusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T18:52:34.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-18T20:29:30.140" Score="2" ViewCount="2633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm embarrassed to say that I accidentally drove my 2015 Volkswagen Jetta in S gear under the D on my automatic, on the highway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was running smoothly, so I didn't notice until I heard a flapping noise which I assumed was a flat tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped, no flat tire, but burning smell. Car has only 700 miles on it. Have I damaged my new car, should I have a mechanic look at it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10172" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T07:24:49.120" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T01:43:54.847" Title="2015 jetta on highway in wrong gear" Tags="|vw|jetta|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-18T21:33:10.250" Score="6" ViewCount="7568" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Prius' battery is dead. It is in a narrow garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Can I shift it into neutral and push it out of the garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Can I open the rear hatch to jump the auxiliary battery in the trunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  Is it worth buying a 20ft jumper cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)  Should I call road service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10173" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T22:06:26.267" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T18:52:36.103" Title="2008 Prius Dead Battery" Tags="|battery|toyota|prius|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16455" CreationDate="2015-04-18T22:05:04.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I doubt you have caused your Jetta any permanent damage&lt;/strong&gt;, though the &quot;flapping noise&quot; has me a bit confused. Driving in second gear is not a good thing to do on a regular basis. In most cars, if the engine is being over taxed in a lower driver selected gear, the transmission will force shift into the higher gears to avoid damage. I don't know if VW's are one of those, but would be so considering the German engineering. The burning smell you observed was more than likely paint/oil/protectant being burnt off of the engine (or turbo if it has one). If you continue to hear the &quot;flapping&quot;, take it back to the dealership and have them repair it. &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; tell them how you drove it, just ask them to fix the noise. Even problems caused by driver error are usually covered under warranty, so don't be afraid to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T22:05:04.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16456" CreationDate="2015-04-18T22:23:31.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Can I shift it into neutral and push it out of the garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of choices to move the Prius out of the garage. You cannot shift it into neutral without the 12v battery. What you can do, however is jump the vehicle from the front end. Here is a picture I acquired from &lt;a href=&quot;http://priuschat.com/threads/moving-the-prius-07-if-will-not-start.57640/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which shows where to put your jumper lead at (the pinkie finger):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPUoU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;found on Priuschat.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can place the black (negative) lead on the gold colored stud/nut at the 11 o'clock position. This should get you enough juice into the system to put the car into neutral (probably not enough to start it). Once you have the car in neutral, you can remove the relay which is where the pointer finger is pointing to (already removed in the picture). Then once you remove the power, the car will stay in neutral and you can move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't to your liking, you'll need to lift the front of the car and roll it out of the garage. This can be accomplished using a rolling floor jack, or by placing the front tires on roller dollies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Can I open the rear hatch to jump the auxiliary battery in the trunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume you could open the rear hatch using the same method as above (using a jumper on the system as described). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Is it worth buying a 20ft jumper cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My jumper cables are about 20ft long and are very low gauge (2 gauge, I think). They will transfer a lot of juice and have always come in handy. I've had them for over 20 years and have never regretted the purchase. These will be pretty expensive to get, but worth it in the end, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Should I call road service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, yes. It's about the last resort, but it could be about your only choice if you cannot do it yourself. This is up to you, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T22:23:31.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2015-04-19T01:11:12.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freon fill kits are cheap enough at a NY auto parts store. I would only add freon if there is some still in the system. Even a few ounces of pressure. My experience is usually;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;loose fittings &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a Schrader valve where you add or check freon pressure&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely is it;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a compressor shaft seal, but they do wear out after thousands of miles. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;very rarely a condenser coil (in front of radiator) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;even rarer an evaporator (inside car air flow). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rent a vac pump I am told and usually borrow tools from auto zone for a depostit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not rocket science but is engineering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google it and soon you will have it fixed at a fraction of the cost. Never add liquid freon as it will shatter valves in compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm can slightly NO FLAME.... And add liquid with system off. Then add gaseous only while running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to bypass the low pressure cutout to get it to come on. Return gas to compressor cools the compressor. Rule of thumb is when suction line to compressor sweats, your gauge has enough gas.  Monitor air out of duct windows open on high so cooling inside car doesn't give false cooling temp. Air should cool down as suction line getss cooler. If temp starts to inch up, you are adding too much gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some newer cars are tricky as they have low speed economize features that reduce pressure on compressor near idle. This Largely stemmed from gm 1976 on up cars blowing pressure lines at idle for too long. If the suction line frost up or freezes on a warm day you h as ve air or moisture in system and need to change receiver drier and vac system before filling. All cars have a lable on how much freon a specific system holds and an empty system can be filled by that amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My truck takes 2 pounds 4 ounces. So that's 36 ounces or almost three 12 ounce cans. See suction line or temp output. Do not overfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T15:03:59.520" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T15:03:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T08:18:16.703" Score="5" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;The API ( American Petroleum Institute ) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.api.org/~/media/files/oil-and-natural-gas/engine%20oil/motor_oil_guide_2010_120210.pdf?la=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;provides certifications for engine oil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such certifications range from SA for 1930's era vehicles up to the current standard SN.  The above linked document from the API lists all grades prior to SJ ( introduced in 1997 ) as obsolete.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For SN it lists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger&#xA;  protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see SJ grade oils still on sale at somewhat cheaper prices, and was wondering if there is any real benefit in using the newer SN oils in a vehicle that was originally designed with the SJ grade oils in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask about benefit since it seems to be implied by the above document that the newer grade is reverse compatible with recent, older engines - say anything built in the last 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T18:25:27.247" LastActivityDate="2024-02-16T11:06:00.740" Title="Are More Recent API Oils always &quot;Better&quot;?" Tags="|oil|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T14:21:11.103" Score="4" ViewCount="5929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the front door speakers in my 2014 Ford Fusion, it is the 6 speaker system(NO 8&quot; LCD or Premium Sony Package). I'm looking at the factory wiring harness and it consists of 4 wires going into the plug. I was anticipating 2 wires and even the guy at Crutchfield was confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me why there are four wires and not two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do with the two extra wires after I cut the plug off? Do I cap them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably be most helpful to many since the internet has no mention of this and Youtube has nothing on this specific project for this specific car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10170" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:24:12.897" Title="2014 Ford Fusion Front Speaker Replacement (Wiring Question)" Tags="|ford|wiring|door|fusion|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19670" CreationDate="2015-04-19T18:52:50.017" Score="6" ViewCount="24678" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one should be fun for any Honda aficionados out there.  I have a 2007 Honda Civic.  Some days it does not start or crank; seems related to the temperature.  When the car starts, it runs fine and stays that way. Often time, it will re-start throughout the day just fine until the next morning when I get to play Honda Roulette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms (In chronological order)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 months ago - My passenger airbag sensor keeps showing up on my dashboard that it's disabled. Went to the Honda dealership and they replaced the airbag. The issue went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16 months ago - I let my battery die; twice within a month.  AAA came and told me my battery was totally shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 months ago - The passenger airbag light problem came back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 months ago - I made a long trip from VA to FL.  During the trip, there was really bad weather; Coincidentally (I assume), my dash lights flickered and my headlights were barely visible and were flickering. We had to stop a few times it got so bad; but the car always started up and would occasionally the electronics would just &lt;em&gt;work&lt;/em&gt; again. The flickering issue to this degree never came back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 months ago - My car would randomly kick up to 5k RPM when I was driving at 15MPH-35MPH and just &lt;em&gt;stay&lt;/em&gt; at that RPM. It would persist for 20 minutes some times and then just go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 months ago - My car starting emitting a light shinning noise from the front that increased in pitch when my car sped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 months ago - I figured out the whine was caused by the power steering pump, I let the fluid run a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; low, changing that out fixed the whining issues; but I still occasionally had the RPM issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 months ago - Once in a while, the car would have a little difficulty starting. It would always start, but not as confidently as it usually did.  Nonetheless, this caused no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 months ago - I finally shelled out money and got a new battery. woo. I assumed most of the issues I had been encountering were from a bad battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 months ago - I got in the car after dropping something off at the post office and turned the key. &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt;.  No sound beyond the dash lights. I turned the key again and it started without a problem.  I assumed that I just hadn't turned the key all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 months ago - My air conditioner was no longer cooling the car down. It was fine the day before and it just stopped working. The fans work just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 month ago - I went out to start my car and had the same issue that I was experiencing at the post office. Tried multiple times, no crank, no start, just the faint click of a relay.  AAA came out and first attempted to jump start with a battery and booster pack; no luck.  They jacked up my car and hit it the starter with a hammer and it miraculously started. They ran a test on my battery and alternator.  The battery was outputting 150% rated cold cranking amps (it's practically new), and the alternator was fine. There was, however, large spikes on the startup voltage V/t graph. It looked like a jagged cliff, it eventually dropped down to the normal voltage post-start but it was really rough. The AAA guy thought it might be the solenoid barely making contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 days ago - I replaced my stater Motor/Solenoid (one module). After the installation, it started up just fine. I was happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 days ago - Tried to start the car; and no sound ... that install wasn't exactly easy and this is really disappointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 days ago - I went through the electronics in the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the TRS (The shifter sensor), it correctly identifies the position and the reverse lights work correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked the 3 relays in the front by the dash (Fuel Pump, Main relay, and I forget the last one).  The main relay had issues when I tested it (at least I thought), so I replaced it.  But that didn't help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I plugged a diagnostics computer in. The first time I ran the diagnostics, the car wouldn't start.  No code showed up, but it did report the AC Evaporator was &quot;Not Ready&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I tried starting it a few more times and it magically started again. I ran the computer test again and now it was reporting that both the AC Evaporator compressor and Catalyst were &quot;Not Ready&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try the start again, it won't start. Run the computer again, and now it reports AC Evaporator, Catalyst, and two other things I can't remember atm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try the start again, it starts just fine... Run the computer, and it still shows 4 things &quot;not ready&quot; as in the last test. No check engine light still.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And now my power windows don't work. But everything in the cabin is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note, when I turn the key, it does have a green key symbol that flashes for a second. I read online that could be the anti-theft system but I was told that if that was the case, it would let the car start and then kill it in a few seconds. Additionally, no amount of fiddling the shifter, keys, fuse unit seems to affect the start.  The only thing that seems to cause it to occasionally start is waiting till the next day or messing with the electrical system a whole bunch (but that could be coincidental). When it does not start, the only sound is the relay click and a very light whining noise coming from the front of the engine. It sounds a lot like when you don't have enough voltage in a cordless drill to the point that it can't turn anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is driving me mad (or not driving).  My brother believes it is a faulty ground; I think it it's either a bad (+) on the high amperage route; my Dad thinks the wiring diagrams are bad and we are missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10179" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T23:22:38.117" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T18:45:14.297" Title="8th Gen Honda - No Start, No Crank (down the rabbit hole)" Tags="|honda|electrical|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T21:33:56.570" Score="8" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT with a newly rebuilt engine (ran out of oil and threw rods) but problems still persist. I was told by the mechanic to allow myself a 500 mile break in time of not accelerating over 55mph to give the engine time to &quot;learn to work together again&quot; with all of the new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the problem(s):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It takes about 20 minutes after cranking it up for it to be ready to drive&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if I put it in gear before it smoothes out it'll immediately stall out. Why? I've put 900 miles on it since the rebuild. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a couple weeks ago it started shaking EXTREMELY bad if stopped while in gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it would also have absolutely no power at take off (barely gets across the road from a dead stop) but seconds later feels like it gets a burst of speed that causes the engine to rev loudly and RPMs to rise to about 5000.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic changed out 2 coils and replaced PVC valve and attached hose. Problem still occurs, although the shaking/revving seems slightly less so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All fluids are good, we've started going by process of elimination to find the problem but it's getting very expensive. Anybody have ANY idea what could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10182" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T12:03:40.810" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:32:33.840" Title="newly rebuilt engine, long warm-up &amp; severe shaking" Tags="|engine|toyota|repair|celica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="881" CreationDate="2015-04-20T03:00:27.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with the rear wheels of my BMW and here's what I did.  I have aluminum wheels so I needed to be careful.  I took a 1 foot piece of cedar (soft wood) 2x4 and a sledge hammer.  Using some force, I hit the piece of wood with the hammer around the outside perimeter of the wheel.  Eventually it loosened up from the axle.  There wasn't any visible damage to the wheel at all.  For additional wheel protection, one could cover the end of the wood that touches the wheel with a towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10184" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T03:00:27.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T05:10:51.360" Score="4" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before winter I had the oil changed, filled the gas tank and added the recommended amount of &lt;code&gt;Sta-bil&lt;/code&gt; fuel stabilizer. Then rode around for about ten minutes then switched the petcock to &lt;code&gt;off&lt;/code&gt; and ran the rest of the gas out of the system. Then the last step was draining the float bowl. Just for some context I should say this was my first time winterizing a bike, and I am less then knowledgeable about mechanics in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being stored for many months, it is time for the first ride. Trying to start it for the first time this spring there is a little trouble ... the petcock is back in the &lt;code&gt;on&lt;/code&gt; position and everything else seems okay, but the engine will not turn. I am not sure of the mechanisms involved with starting, but hitting the start switch will make a sound that indicates to me that everything electrical is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am missing? Do I need to get fuel back into the float bowl somehow? any other tips for winterization and first spring rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7009" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T12:44:35.050" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:25:32.860" Title="Honda XR650l first ride after winterization" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16463" CreationDate="2015-04-20T06:50:11.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;default&quot; speakers in your car should be bi-wired ones. The 6-speaker layout in your car should have 2 speakers in the front, 2 tweeters in the front and 2 speakers in the back. The speakers in the back of your car should only have 2 strands each. The 4 strands of the connector on the front speakers are composed of two strands for LF - low frequency (the lower speaker in the door) and two strands for the HF - high frequency (tweeters in the dash/high in the door).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the speaker you want to replace, then measure the ohmic impedance of all the strands. Two of them should have low impedance. These are the ones that go to the HF. You should leave those strands alone and connect the remaining two strands with your new speaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the factory speaker has some circuit/filter for the HF signals though. I think its best to hook the new speakers up with the two strands that have very high impedance and leave the other two dangling. Then test your speakers with a song that has a lot of high tones in it and put your ear against the tweeter. You should hear some sound now. If not there is probably some circuit mounted in the default speaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you get started, you must measure the two new speakers on impedance. They must match and this value (i.e. 8 Ohm) should be roughly the same as the the impedance of the default speakers. Your audio system is balanced and will work best with speakers of the same impedance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T06:50:11.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16401" CreationDate="2015-04-20T09:00:20.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checked in my handbook and 225's can be fitted on 7J up to 8J, but make sure that you check the offset for your car. The offset relates to the fitment of wheel to car and has no relevance to the tyre itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10127" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T09:00:20.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2015-04-20T13:18:54.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I would like tell you that painting your car rims is not straightforward as painting a plain wall. It requires little more efforts and some appropriates tools as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   paint thinner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   rags&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   painters tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   various grits of sandpaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   newspaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   steel wool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Stops Rust paint &amp;amp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Self Etching Primer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have arranged all the above tools you can proceed by following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prep the wheels: Remove all the rusting, flaking or chipping from the rims in order to get the paint stick properly and retain longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tape off the tire: Most of the time we over spray the paint which get deposited on tires and seems ugly. You just tape the wheel at the point where rim meets the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the primer: Primer helps the paint to stick for long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now paint the wheels: Now finally you can apply that paint coating over the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount them and admire: Now remove the tape and mount the wheel again with the car. That’s it… now your shinning rims are ready to hit the road. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10188" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T16:15:51.457" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T16:15:51.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T14:01:45.920" Score="0" ViewCount="4270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord.  A few years ago I started having an issue with the car not wanting to start once the engine was warmed up.  I finally took it to the dealership and they diagnosed that none of my sparkplugs were firing and the EGR valve was stuck open.  They also informed me that the bulb to my check engine light was missing.  With all three items repaired, the check engine light was still on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took car to Autozone, they diagnosed P1457 and told me not to worry.  My car ran fine for about 9 months and then I started facing the same problem again. Took back to Autozone, P1457 and another code for the EGR valve showed.  Replaced EGR valve again and less than a month later, the start problem is back.  Took back to Autozone and the only code is P1457.  I'm at loss.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the P1457 cause the car not to start?  Seems odd since the code has been in place for over a year.  I can smell gas so I know that I need to figure out if it is the cannister or solenoid but my main concern is trying to figure out why my car won't start once it's warm.  I can either wait 20-30 minutes and try again or I can keep pumping and feathering the gap pedal until the rough idle smooths out--that takes about 5 minutes.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10189" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T12:59:38.137" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:59:38.137" Title="2000 Honda Accord won't start when engine is warm" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|egr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:12:26.027" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 87 GMC pickup. It was running fine yesterday.  Went to get in it this morning and nothing. The cab light came on at first, but now nothing. When I hook jumper cables to it I get a spark from the cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean the battery has power? After tried to jump it, no lights in cab and it doesn't even click when i try to crank it. I replaced the battery on April 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10191" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T17:19:15.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:08:35.883" Title="1987 GMC pickup - will not crank" Tags="|battery|starting|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T00:30:11.397" Score="4" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone successfully deleted lines or looped high pressure side back into power steering pump to starve leaking rack and pinion while lubing pump spindle? Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10195" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:51:59.903" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T20:10:46.553" Title="Bypass power steering pump?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16476" CreationDate="2015-04-21T00:36:25.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many Honda vehicles of that age have &quot;hot restart&quot; problem due to a faulty fuel relay.  The relay is usually inside the cabin, under the dash (I have no experience on the Accord, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should at least be possible to test if you have access to the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0F2OsgXmshI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civic relay video&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CMZ4g8n0FQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda relay video&lt;/a&gt; (Relay portion starts after about 5:30 on the second video).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10194" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T01:30:44.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T01:30:44.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T00:42:01.693" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my tires checked because the car would vibrate at about 65 miles per hour. The tech found belt shift and flat spotting on right front tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the tire have to be replaced or could I just have it balanced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10196" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T01:32:14.563" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T01:32:14.563" Title="Wheel Vibration - Right front tire" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16482" CreationDate="2015-04-21T01:17:34.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a flat spot on the tire you will most likely want to get it replaced, depending on how bad the flat spot is. Just minor wear and you'll be fine with a re-balance as it'll wear normally around the flat spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2090" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T01:17:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16487" CreationDate="2015-04-21T03:17:55.693" Score="1" ViewCount="30874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my first brake job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pads I put into the caliper were significantly smaller than the old ones. The old ones needed to be hammered out of the caliper because they were tightly fitted into the caliper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new brake pads are supposed to be an exact fit for my car (&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wearever-silver-semi-metallic-brake-pads-front-4-pad-set-mkd-562/3600920-P?navigationPath=L1*14921%7CL2*16463#pr-header-back-to-top-link&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota Camry 2000&lt;/a&gt;) but there is almost a centimeter of free space from the top of the pad to the caliper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there supposed to be space for play in the brakes? It seems like there is too much. I installed the brakes and I do hear noises so I'm guessing Advanced Auto Parts had the wrong size, or I just need to give the brakes some time to break in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5075" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T22:07:10.937" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T23:23:40.797" Title="Does the brake pad need to fit perfectly into caliper?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16491" CreationDate="2015-04-21T06:10:25.700" Score="8" ViewCount="22066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-use-seafoam-to-clean-your-engine-the-right-way.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this procedure&lt;/a&gt; for using Sea Foam ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://seafoamsales.com/vacuum-line-method-with-sea-foam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;also listed on their website&lt;/a&gt; ) to clean the intake manifold, injectors and crankcase.  I think this would be useful for my vehicle, however Sea Foam isn't available where I live.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_2822.html?Opendocument&amp;amp;land=GB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liqui Moly made products&lt;/a&gt; available here and I was thinking about using one of them. They list a bunch of different products &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx/2D2A7C2D3D0CCA42C12573DA00315AAF/$file/5616.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;with different purposes here&lt;/a&gt;, such an oil sludge flush and engine flush in addition to regular injector cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could I use any injection system cleaner with the above procedure or do I need specialized products?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T10:51:18.517" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T12:07:15.873" Title="What are some Seafoam Alternatives" Tags="|cleaning|fuel-injection|intake-manifold|crankcase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16484" CreationDate="2015-04-21T06:22:52.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brake pads need to fit exactly in the width of the caliper. You can't have any space there as it might be dangerous if you need to push hard on the brakes. The pads can be a little longer or shorter than your previous ones. If your pads are longer, the surface of the brakes touching the discs will be larger, thus will generate more friction and therfore better stopping power. In contrast will shorter brake pads generate less friction and therefore a litte less stopping power. Your brake pads must be within certain limits the manufaturer specifies, though. they can't be too large and they certainly can't be smaller than the size of the surface of the brake pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's normal you needed to hammer the old ones out, as the brake pads might be stuck due to extreme temperature changes. Before you read on, make sure your brake fluid is within the limits on the reservoir, your brake pads touch the discs and the cap of the brake fluid reservoir is &lt;strong&gt;closed&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just replaced your brakes its best to &quot;brake them in&quot; to make them last longer and let them do their job better. Look for an open road with as few traffic as possible and accelerate to some decent speed and push on the brakes as hard as you can without creating any flat-spots on your tires.. Make sure there is nothing in the car that can get flying, though :). You will notice that there will be a sqeezy noise on the first few brake attempts. This is perfectly normal. You'll know when your brakes are ready when they are almost &quot;silent&quot;. While you are doing this, make sure the car doesn't tend to go to the side of the road. Now you're ready to head out and use your brakes as you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T06:22:52.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16493" CreationDate="2015-04-21T07:09:07.787" Score="4" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it impossible to set a speed below 30 km/h on every Tempomat I've ever seen? Is it for legal reasons or technical difficulties with low speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful in a stop and go situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10199" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:53:19.273" Title="Why can I not set my Tempomat (cruise-control) to a speed below 30km/h?" Tags="|cruise-control|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T07:29:16.043" Score="7" ViewCount="10458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my 2002 Saturn SL2 in to replace a battery and seal; only when I brought the car into the shop my odometer read less than 23,000 miles and afterwards it read 91,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to get records from two places that I had previously brought the car to that clearly tell the true odometer readings, proving that there was no way I was able to put an additional 65,000 miles on the car in that short time period. Any ideas of what I can do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10200" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T16:08:41.543" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T13:21:53.040" Title="Odometer gained 65,000 miles after battery replacement" Tags="|saturn|odometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16486" CreationDate="2015-04-21T12:27:57.237" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - To directly answer the question, SeaFoam is a pure petroleum product. If an alternative product is made up the same as Seafoam, then I'd think it would work just fine. If its makeup is not similar, you probably won't see the same results. Below is what you are looking for and a recipe for making your own substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for a SeaFoam substitute online with a very nice write-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the guy broke down what SeaFoam is by looking up the formula on &lt;a href=&quot;http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MSDS_seafoam_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Material Safety Data Sheets&lt;/a&gt;. This boils down to three parts: pale oil (ie: diesel fuel), Naphtha, and Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). Note how all three are petroleum based in one form or another. This is the same as what SeaFoam claims for their product. His suggestions as far as how much of each would be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4 parts diesel&#xA;2 parts naphtha&#xA;1 part IPA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IPA he suggests needs to be fairly pure IPA and not what you purchase from the drug store. His suggestion is Iso-Heat, but I'm sure that most of the gasoline drying treatments are probably right in-line with this product. Read the back label and get the highest % you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He suggests this worked very well, had nearly the same specific gravity as SeaFoam, was the same basic color as SeaFoam, and did not separate (just like SeaFoam). His write-up seems fairly comprehensive and makes a lot of sense. It sounds as though he's done his research and has come up with a viable alternative. This would also be a lot cheaper than buying SeaFoam, though I haven't found it cost prohibitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; While this may or may not be exactly what SeaFoam is and may work as the author suggests, you will want to make/use at your own risk. I take no responsibility for anything you do to your own vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; - As an aside, I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this write-up&lt;/a&gt; on using Seafoam. It is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; complete, understandable, and (weeeeee) &lt;em&gt;has pictures!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T12:07:15.873" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T12:07:15.873" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:03:32.047" Score="2" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially there are two main symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel gauge&lt;/strong&gt;: I usually drive about 260 miles before refilling. Lately the fuel gauge has been staying at full for the first 150 miles or so before starting to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refueling&lt;/strong&gt;: My tank capacity is 11.9 gallons and I usually refill after about 10 gallons. Lately the pump has been automatically stopping after about 8 gallons and I have to fill the last 2 gallons in short bursts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A perhaps unrelated issue that I will mention just in case it might be relevant is that there is a loud grating noise when the engine is on and I am not moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point I should mention is that my check engine light has been on for a while and my mechanic failed to fix it several times and finally said that he knows what the problem is (something to do with the gas tank, I can't remember what) but that it is probably not worth fixing and should not have any negative side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: The check engine light code is P1456.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10202" LastEditorUserId="10202" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T13:36:37.630" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:22:38.693" Title="2000 Honda Civic fuel tank problems" Tags="|honda|civic|noise|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16488" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:53:19.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a 30 zone implies you are in town, where you are subject to children, pets, footballs, stopping traffic etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cruise control is for long distances at a constant speed where you are not subject to rapidly changing risks - not for stop-go situations. In town you should be concentrating on what is going on and adjusting your speed constantly based on what is around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically to your final sentence - &lt;strong&gt;Cruise control is the opposite of what you want in a stop go situation!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:53:19.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T18:11:05.347" Score="5" ViewCount="6350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently chasing a lean condition in my Ford F150. My fuel trims were reading high on one bank (bank 2) and I am curious when I find the vacuum leak or whatever is causing the high readings, how long will it take for the long term fuel trim to come back down to normal range? I found something yesterday and now the STFT are reading +3% but the LTFT is still up in the +28%. Do I need to take it for some drive cycles for the PCM to re-learn the new trims? Any help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10206" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T22:06:05.550" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T16:13:12.650" Title="2003 F150 5.4L V8 Long Term Fuel Trim High Bank 2" Tags="|engine|ford|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14813" CreationDate="2015-04-21T19:02:50.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru fires each cylinder 1 at a time but the Subaru is a boxer design which means that the cylinders are opposed to each other in pancake manner like Volkswagon, Porche and Corvair.... This allows them to have higher frequency vibration with less weight because they do not have to use counterbalance weights within the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less weight and higher frequency mean a longer life and less weight means better economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boxer is a German design origination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boxer design also allows a smaller engine with less wasted space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single cylinder 2 stroke or 4 stroke will have higher torque because torque is direct result of the surface area being pushed .... The bigger the bore the higher the torque .... The more cylinders the smoother that torque is delivered but splitting displacement between 2 cylinders will give smoother delivery reducing torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding on dirt you effectively have a fluid coupling to the ground on pavement is not so except on drag strips..... On dry pavement the pulse delivered by any engine is prefered to be delivered in as many pulses as possible because once traction is broken is difficult to regain one big pulse is more likely to break traction of the tire to the pavement..... .... drag racing is done with horse power you only need enough torque to start the vehicle moving then it is the horse power that makes for a low time thru the traps.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horse power and torque can be traded through the use of gearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your single cylinder is one to one ratio then the tire will get a jolt of power at the same point on it every revolution however going 1:2 it will fire the jolt at the same point but only every other revolution of the tire going the other way 2:1 ratio means the tire gets 2 jolts 180 degrees apart each revolution going 4 to 1 press a jolt at every 1/4 Rev of tire best is if you can get many jolts spread evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T22:54:34.613" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T22:54:34.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16501" CreationDate="2015-04-21T19:04:08.163" Score="3" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my 2010 Civic to the mechanic. He indicated that the tire pressure is low, and suggested rotating my tires as a fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought tire pressure is already pre-specified and should be at a specific value (eg. 32PSI, which is what's indicated inside the front door). Assuming they do re-pump it to the target pressure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything specific about low tire pressure that necessitates rotating it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since Civics have a low-tire-pressure indicator, is this something that can only be done at a mechanic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: this mechanic is known for recommending changes that may not be necessary, and pressuring buyers into saying &quot;yes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T20:34:21.050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T16:30:00.730" Title="Tire rotation to fix low tire pressure?" Tags="|honda|tires|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11132" CreationDate="2015-04-21T19:39:10.840" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the accelerate happen consistently/all the time within a particular speed range e.g. 40-50 miles/hr? If so, you might have a bad axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4485" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T19:39:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16494" CreationDate="2015-04-21T20:12:59.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the name implies, long term fuel trims usually require the vehicle to be driven for some distance in order to adapt and re-learn changes. Depending on the vehicle, it may even require a couple of hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the fuel trims can be reset in many vehicles via certain scan tools, so one may not have to drive to let the LTFT's settle to their new equilibrium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T20:12:59.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16494" CreationDate="2015-04-21T20:38:35.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do a hard reset of the PCM, you're computer will be back to the baseline trim the computer starts with from the factory prior to any self-adjustment. This will get you to your desired trim much quicker than trims which have been in place for a while. To do a &quot;hard reset&quot;, pull the negative side battery terminal and leave it off for 30 minutes. This will allow all of the residual juice in the PCM to bleed off and cause it to lose its saved memory. This will force it back to the factory standard and allow it to relearn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I say 30 minutes as a generic time. Some PCMs will lose their memory in a matter of minutes, while others will take much longer. The 30 minutes is probably overkill, but will surely blank it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T20:38:35.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16492" CreationDate="2015-04-22T08:48:10.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this really answers your question, but I thought I'd give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an electronic circuit between your fuel tank and the gauge. This circuitry does nothing more than reading the voltage coming from your fuel tank level sensor and sending this voltage to your gauge. This voltage should be stabilised by a regulator. This circuitry might be malfunctioning in your case. That could explain why the gauge will go down way later than it's supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise coming from your engine when idling could be related to running to lean or too rich. When this occurs for a certain time, the &quot;check engine&quot; light will go on. This could indicate a wrong fuel mixture, or -more commonly if you haven't done anything odd with your fuel recently- an issue with your lambda sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before heading out to buying new parts and unbolting things it's best to follow Paulster2s advice and read the error codes with an OBDII reader, or go to a shop and have it done for you. This will help you a lot in troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T08:48:10.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2015-04-22T08:49:08.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotating your tyres won't fix a low pressure, you have to pump them up for that! I can't see any reason why rotating them would help with a persistent pressure loss (slow puncture) either - the only fix for that is to remove the culprit tyre, clean the rim and re-mount it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might, however, be that they are due for rotation anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic is known for pressuring customers into paying for unnecessary changes, I'd suggest getting a new, more trustworthy, mechanic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T08:49:08.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16496" CreationDate="2015-04-22T10:04:43.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop going to that mechanic IMMEDIATELY. He's telling half-truths (which is how communists come to power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre rotation has nothing to do with tyre pressures. Your tyres lose pressure because they either have a slow leak, or you like driving fast over bumps. Rotating them will only make the problem appear on another wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reinflate your tyres while you're filling up at a gas station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T16:30:00.730" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T16:30:00.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:18:39.867" Score="1" ViewCount="2387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Ford Expedition.  I was having trouble with it idling and now it won't start.  What can cause this problem? Yesterday I was driving and had to double foot it to keep it idling. Every time I let off the gas the engine would die. It would take a minute for it to restart but it would fire up and run rough. I have not had problems like this until yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10213" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T15:47:34.140" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:06:15.163" Title="What will cause my Ford Expedition not to start?" Tags="|ford|starting|ignition|rough-idle|expedition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:33:57.813" Score="5" ViewCount="13663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't drive my car very often and in the 13 years I've owned it I think I only ever reached the 5000 mile limit once during a long roadtrip; instead I always end up driving only about 2000 miles in the city before reaching the 6 month time limit recommended for a conventional oil change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently started going with synthetic oils and my question is, how strict is this 6 month limit, especially for synthetic/blend oils which should degrade &lt;strong&gt;less rapidly&lt;/strong&gt; than conventional oil. I know that better quality oils can almost double the driving distance (7.5k-10k miles) before needing an oil change (and newer cars up to 15k), so &lt;strong&gt;shouldn't the time duration also be increased to more than 6 months for synthetic oils&lt;/strong&gt;, maybe to 9 months or so? Does anyone have any information on the degradation rates of various oils under typical conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T22:01:15.520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:06:08.097" Title="How much more slowly do synthetic oils degrade compared to conventional oils?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T14:54:55.603" Score="7" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel vehicle often use turbo chargers. Petrol vehicles frequently do not.  What are the advantages and disadvantages of using a turbo charger on a petrol engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10214" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T15:40:06.970" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T23:48:34.217" Title="Petrol vehicles, what are the advantages and disadvantages of a turbo charger?" Tags="|diesel|turbocharger|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16589" CreationDate="2015-04-22T15:25:32.103" Score="4" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kubota T2080 lawn tractor. It has a basic 2-cylinder gasoline naturally aspirated engine. I let it sit last winter and now that it's the spring, I cannot get the engine to fire. The electric starter spins forever and sounds normal but the engine doesn't seem to be firing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've tried so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked choke cable: seems fine and engages correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charging the battery overnight: no change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil+filter was changed: no change too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filter was also changed (old one wasn't in the best condition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is definitely sucking in fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air filter was cleaned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the spark plugs out and visually looking for ignition: there is no spark on both cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regap the spark plugs to 0.03&quot;: no change, gap was around 0.05&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While they were out, air comes out from the holes during the starter cranking &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the ignition coil just somehow went bad over one winter? What else should I be checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I actually think it might be getting a spark but I either couldn't see it in the sunlight or I wasn't grounding it correctly. I'll confirm it later today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: I'm thinking it's probably the carb. I forgot to put stabil in it last year and I never shut the petcock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 3: Well, I took off the plastic shroud that is almost impossible to get off, and it turns out, there is no ignition solenoid or distributor. It's all straight magneto. I cleaned the carb but it already looked pretty good. Will reassemble today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:35:40.167" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:35:40.167" Title="Cannot get Kubota tractor engine to fire" Tags="|starting|ignition|small-engine|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16489" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:46:38.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to me you bought a car which had the mileage rolled back on it. The only way I'd consider myself wrong in this is if you bought it new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an odometer has been tampered with, sometimes they stay where they are supposed to and other times it can revert. This really depends on the vehicle and the device used to monkey with the odometer. The battery replacement could have caused. The mileage is actually stored in several places (I've heard like nine). I'm thinking the original mileage could have been stored in permanent memory, with the altered mileage stored in the displayed memory which may be volatile. When the battery power was gone and the residual power drained, the odometer reverted back to main memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the shop would have done anything to actually cause this ... they'd have no reason to do something which would change the mileage on the vehicle. I would put it most likely on the person who sold the car to the dealership who is probably the culprit, but it could just as easily have been the dealership who did it. The thing you should believe to be true is that the odometer was messed with. What you don't know is the who and not way to really prove the who. Again, this all is an educated guess on my part, but seems plausible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:46:38.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16513" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:16:30.527" Score="1" ViewCount="1223" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know facts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your car brakes (e.g. because of the weight) can't stop the&#xA;car, it's recommended to use downshift (engine braking) to help&#xA;brake the car. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best way to stop the car is to brake at&#xA;maximum without locking the wheels (like ABS does).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you car can brakes (maintain that maximum force without locking the wheel), does downshift together help to stop the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10215" LastEditorUserId="10215" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T14:06:51.513" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T19:25:25.343" Title="Does downshifting ( Engine Braking ) help when my car brakes CAN lock the wheel?" Tags="|brakes|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:33:20.047" Score="5" ViewCount="1919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha DragStar 650 1999.  I have a Highway Hawk exhaust and I removed the baffles. Now the exhaust is completely open.  When the engine is cold I can start it only if I pull the acceleration a little (choke pulled at maximum). I didn't need to work the throttle prior to taking out the baffles. I don't have so much torque on low rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;So my question is:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a take the bike to a specialist and I clean and synchronize/adjust the carburetors, will I have the same power as I had with baffles in the exhaust system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10218" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:14:56.067" Title="Lost torque on my Yamaha XVS650" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|carburetor|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16510" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:40:58.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Your tires locking is based on the static friction of the tires to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the static friction is overcome, regardless of whether it is from engine braking or normal braking, the tires will lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll expand this answer based on the edits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tires locking is based on static friction between your tire and the road.  Braking on ice will lock the tires much easier than wet asphalt, which is also easier than dry asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your ability to brake is based on your brakes and engine braking, and other source of friction applied to the rotation of your tires.  You can also do other (highly NOT recommended stuff) like put your gear in reverse, go into gear and shut down your engine, etc.  Whatever it is that causes the wheels to not rotate as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the source of braking comes from don't matter.  You simply want to get as close to the static friction limit as possible without exceeding the static friction limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastEditorUserId="9535" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T19:25:25.343" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T19:25:25.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16384" CreationDate="2015-04-22T20:00:01.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing we don't know is the mileage on this vehicle. Because you have been having issues since you got the vehicle, high mileage, or lack of maintenance could be a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unfamiliar with this particular vehicle and I may be at a disadvantage, however a diesel is a diesel. The smoke when the engine does finally start (as was stated in another answer) is indicative of unburnt fuel that does not burn in the combustion chamber, enters the exhaust, and once the engine is running the heat from the burnt gases cause it to smoke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines ignite their fuel by compressing the intake air, which creates heat high enough to ignite the fuel.  Cold engine, with cold air cannot create enough heat to ignite the fuel, hence the need for glow plugs.  They supply added heat, enough to ignite the fuel even when the ambient temperature is low.  If there is compression loss this accentuates the problem, especially upon the first start of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the glow plus making it harder (or impossible) to start sounds like, as in another answer the plugs may not be the correct ones for the vehicle. Sometimes older glow plugs will have less resistance in some and not others. What this can cause is some plugs working and getting higher current flow allowing it to heat to a higher temperature. A worn/high mileage engine with marginal compression can be hard to start after it sits overnight, and it takes more heat to get it started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the voltage, resistance and amperage (current) flow is the first way to check glow plugs. Depending on the type of glow plug, you can have proper resistance, and correct amperage (current) flow, and still have an issue with the plug itself. If it is a &quot;pencil&quot; type it could be heating but not at the tip where it needs to heat to be inside of the combustion chamber. To test them you must have them out of the vehicle where you can see the tip to see that it is actually glowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low compression question seems to be the most reasonable based on the small amount of info we have to work with. I don't know the maintenance that has/has not been done, so this is a possibility. We had several Mercedes that had this same issue. After checking the usual suspects, glow plugs, glow plug relay, starter speed, etc., we checked the valve lash and found that the valves were indeed tight.  We adjusted them to specs and the problem went away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the valve lash has not been checked/adjusted since you have had the vehicle, I would start there. It's not terribly expensive, and it is a needed and much neglected maintenance item.  If that does not fix the problem I would have the compression checked with the engine cold, after sitting overnight, without trying to start it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry this is so long. A lot of info and possibilities!  I hope this helps.  I look forward to seeing what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T21:57:12.003" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T21:57:12.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17445" CreationDate="2015-04-22T22:25:23.097" Score="9" ViewCount="15618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering pump went out 10 months ago. Took it to Pep Boys where they replaced it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, while driving, the power steering goes out again....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was explained to me at Pep Boys that the power steering hose had leaked, broke the power steering pump and then screwed up the rack and pinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will cost a lot of $$$ to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say the pump will be covered under warranty but not the rest...this doesn't sound right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they did something stupid to ruin the power steering hose when they were in there putting in the new pump. Never had anything else gone out in the engine compartment and the guys at Pep Boys were the only ones who'd accessed it. This doesn't seem random to me at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; the service adviser stated he talked to the technician and it was a seal that went out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do power steering hoses just leak randomly like they are claiming? Or is there a reason to be suspicious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of things may happen to a hose when the pump is replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford Taurus 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="10221" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T18:41:48.027" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T06:38:48.157" Title="Do power steering hoses just burst randomly or is it usually caused by installation error?" Tags="|ford|power-steering|taurus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T01:08:57.613" Score="2" ViewCount="3990" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brakes started vibrating occasionally when slowing down on highways at high speeds. I have been realizing that the brakes feel low. I went to a shop for an oil change and the mechanic peeked in between the aluminum wheels &amp;amp; told me that I definitely do NOT need to cut my rotors but I do need to change my brake pads. Why would I be vibrating when braking if there is no need to cut the rotors? and is it possible that I only need to cut the front rotors and not the rear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10222" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T08:26:21.980" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:01:41.780" Title="Brakes pads changes and cutting rotors" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16505" CreationDate="2015-04-23T01:58:58.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this in another Ford Expedition.  Did the Check engine light come on, or has it been on for some time?  Did your idle seem to be high occasionally in the recent past?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this limited information it sounds like a large vacuum leak that the computer has been able to compensate for until it got so bad that it could no longer keep up. Once the vacuum leak has gotten big enough, the engine shuts off at idle, is hard to restart, and when it gets even larger, it allows too much air in and the engine cannot get enough fuel to start when it is cold, because when cold, it needs even more fuel to run properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rubber and plastic hose combination that deteriorates over time and especially if there has been any oil leaking on it.  It is at the rear of the engine, on the passenger side, and it connects to the intake and the breather hose going to the valve cover.  I believe it also goes to one other place, but I cannot remember where. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help find it you could get a can of carburetor cleaner, have someone attempt to start the vehicle while you spray in the aforementioned area.  If it starts, stop spraying and you will probably hear a sucking sound. You can use the carb cleaner to more closely locate the leak by spraying puffs of cleaner and when you hit the leak the engine will rev up and/or smooth out. Look where you sprayed and you will find the leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ONE WORD OF CAUTION: do not douse the engine in carb cleaner.  If there is a leaking spark plug boot it could ignite.  Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and use caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is the issue and that you find it.  Happy hunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T01:58:58.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2015-04-23T03:59:21.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the previous answer stated, always use the oil specified in the owners manual for your vehicle based on temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the numbers and what they mean, the numbers are the &quot;viscosity&quot; of the oil. Viscosity refers to the thickness of the oil, lower numbers are thinner, higher numbers are thicker.  More appropriately the viscosity number is the amount of a given oil that can flow through a given oriface within a fixed amount of time which determines the viscosity number.  The lower the number the more easily it will flow. This test is done when the oil is both cold and hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers of a typical multi-weight oil have specific meanings.  As stated above, viscosity numbers are taken for oil when cold and hot. This is what the numbers mean. The first number is the viscosity of the oil, how it will flow, when cold.  The second number is the viscosity, how it will flow, when hot. So that means a 5w-20 motor oil will have the viscosity characteristics of a 5 weight motor oil when cold. It also means that it will have the viscosity characteristics of a 20 weight when hot.  You might be asking what does the &quot;w&quot; mean. That means it is appropriate to be used in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason oil pressure is important is that the clearances between bearing and crankshaft allow for pressurized oil to flow into those thousands of an inch and be the only thing to keep them from making contact. If it were not pressurized the constant push from the power stroke would push the oil out until contact would be made and catastrophic failure would be the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many years engine oil was simply &quot;30 weight&quot;, or &quot;40 weight&quot;. The only option was a single weight oil.  It would thin as it would heat up, so you had a thick oil when cold and thinner when hot. Just the opposite of what an engine needs. Because of technology, scientists learned how to mix the oil with additive packages to allow an oil to be have different viscosity characteristics that change with temperature. This allows the oil to actually maintain its flow throughout varying temperature ranges to assure the constant flow of the life's blood of an engine, it's oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the newer addition at the end of the designation, these are new technologies that are additives with various characteristics.  One is magnetic to allow it to &quot;stick&quot; to the internal parts and not leech out during the night, so in the morning when you start the engine it still has lubrication until the oil pressure builds. Most engine bearing wear is occurs when the engine is first started and there is no oil being pumped to the bearings. That is the time the bearings and the crankshaft could come in contact and wear occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answers your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T03:59:21.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16517" CreationDate="2015-04-23T04:24:35.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brakes that vibrate when engaged, worse at higher speeds indicates the rotors are warped. This can happen for many reasons, hot brakes and drive through a cold water puddle for example. If the steering wheel shakes when you brake, it is the front brake rotors with the issue.  If the steering wheel does not shake it is probably the rear rotors. The mechanic that looked through the wheels and said you didn't need the rotors machined was probably saying there was no unusual wear and/or the brake pads have not scarred the rotors. The only way to determine which rotor (or rotors) is to blame is to use a dial indicator to measure the rotor face while rotating the wheel. You can have them machined, or you can replace them. Some rotors are very inexpensive and cost about what it takes to have them machined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the low brake pedal, that is another issue. You may have a rusted/stuck caliper slide or, depending on the style of emergency brake, the rear calipers could have an internal emergency brake related issue. More information would be needed to go forward with that answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming there has not been any recent work on the brakes. A brake pad not fully inserted into the holder could also get &quot;caught&quot; and cause the low pedal issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastEditorUserId="10216" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T04:34:27.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T04:34:27.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2015-04-23T04:52:54.080" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When driving diesels it is important to start the engine a few minutes before you start driving it to let the engine warm up. However, it should be fine if you don't push the engine too hard or hit high speeds on your cold engine. It might also be a good idea to put some fuel additives in your fuel to help extend the life and well being of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10225" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T08:23:32.727" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T08:23:32.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16494" CreationDate="2015-04-23T05:13:59.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clear the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and reset the emission monitors information in the powertrain control module (PCM) &lt;em&gt;was previously called PCM reset.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All professional OBD scan tools and some consumer code readers support the clearing of continuous DTCs &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; resetting of emission monitors information in the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearing the continuous DTCs allows the scan tool to command the PCM to clear/reset all emission-related diagnostic information. While carrying out this operation a DTC P1000 will be stored in the PCM until all the OBD system monitors or components have been tested to satisfy a drive cycle without any other faults occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following events occur when the continuous DTCs and emission monitors information is cleared from the PCM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clears the number of DTCs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clears the DTCs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clears the freeze frame data.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clears the diagnostic monitoring test results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resets the status of the OBD system monitors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sets DTC P1000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10223" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T05:13:59.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16527" CreationDate="2015-04-23T07:27:29.533" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help me to identify the year, make and model of this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD4sQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10226" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T08:24:58.077" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T10:26:09.103" Title="Which car is this?" Tags="|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16553" CreationDate="2015-04-23T08:47:10.577" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Derbi Cafe 125. This morning I started the bike up, let it run for a few minutes, changed from N to 1st, and the bike cut out. This happens repeatedly until I walked to work. I then realized I still had the stand down when I was changing down to first. My question is, does a Derbi Cafe 125 have a stand switch or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike stalls cleanly, no jerk or anything like that. I have searched the internet for answers regarding if my bike has this switch, but can't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10228" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T10:17:24.450" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T10:17:24.450" Title="Derbi Cafe 125 stalling when changing to 1st" Tags="|motorcycle|stall|switches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16510" CreationDate="2015-04-23T10:20:53.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Brakes must be capable of locking the wheels (with ABS disabled). If the brakes can't provide this force, then there's something wrong. To brake effectively, you must regulate the brakes (or the ABS must) such that the force is just below the amount required to lock the wheel. This is done by intuitively understanding the vehicle's tell (pedal feel) by practicing threshold braking. In the case of ABS, sensors are used (wheel speed, G sensors etc) to determine wheel lock.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engine braking definitely aids the &lt;strong&gt;brakes&lt;/strong&gt; while braking. The known fact you've mentioned is axiomatic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now to your question as I understand it -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any benefit in using engine braking (by downshifting) when your brakes are fully capable of threshold braking?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would read from your question an additional doubt about threshold braking and would urge you to read up about it. Knowing how to brake hard is, i guess, one of the most overlooked skills in driving/riding (I'm not talking about pros). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/braking.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This here is an easy read&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good brakes must be able to lock your wheel. To be able to brake most effectively (threshold brake) , though, you must apply (or the control system like in ABS must regulate) the maximum amount of braking pressure that the surfaces in contact (your tire is only half the story) can allow before the wheels lock. A tiny amount of wheel slip is beneficial, but that's another topic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using engine braking aids your regular brakes, and hence, quite simply, it takes some work off your brakes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engaging the clutch as soon as you start to brake isn't good practice-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to be in gear should you find yourself the need to accelerate out of a situation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine braking is not utilized&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Eg. for pt.2 - while driving on hilly roads, being on the right gear can greatly help in regulating the speed of the vehicle. Depressing the clutch and continuously using the brakes (say on down-slopes) can cause the brakes to heat up and can severely affect the performance of your brakes in critical situations.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I would argue, for a non-professional, that for critical-emergency braking situations, it's best to concentrate on braking and steering without additionally thinking about downshifting. There is no additional stopping power derived from using engine braking while braking at the limit. Downshifting, if done incorrectly will have the tendency to upset the vehicle and even cause the wheels to lock due to abrupt application of engine braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T12:09:40.920" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T12:09:40.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16524" CreationDate="2015-04-23T10:26:09.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a Rover P5, see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover_P5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rover P5 Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; for further pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7748" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T10:26:09.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T10:48:38.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a TVS Star City 110 CC 2012 Model bike weighing 109 Kgs. I am feeling uncomfortable with the bike suspension. When I checked with my mechanic, he said it is fine. I can feel it is jumping even in small potholes found in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a country like ours, it is very difficult to avoid potholes. When I ride a Honda Dio, I feel comfortable with its suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guide on how to improve the suspension in my bike/if I am considering to upgrade my bike's suspension, what type of suspension upgrades to go for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10231" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T20:31:58.403" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T11:22:04.603" Title="How to improve suspension on my bike TVS Star City 110 CC 2012 Model" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16510" CreationDate="2015-04-23T11:04:21.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if you apply additional braking force when the ABS is already active, you will only make the ABS work harder. You won't see an improvement in stopping distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing an emergency stop and you need to quickly trim about 2-5 meters off your expected stop, you can use the emergency brake while simultaneously jerking the steering wheel to one side when your speed is relatively slow (e.g. under 30km/h). You will slide sideways, losing momentum. This technique utilises the same theory that underpins trail braking (what experienced racers use to maintain speed coming into corners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T11:04:21.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:43:01.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another important function of the fuel cap, it helps control flammable vapors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be if you parked a car inside a hot garage baking in the summer sun. There would be an ignition risk from the enclosed place filled with gasoline vapors leaking out of the open gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:51:43.367" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:51:43.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16188" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:43:17.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a lubrication issue between the release bearing sleeve and the input shaft &quot;snout&quot;. The sleeve that the release bearing is attached to is a metal to metal slip fit. I'm other words there is a smooth shaft that the release bearing assembly slides on. There is only a small amount of space between the two, just enough to allow for some grease for a smooth sliding action as you push the clutch pedal. When you release it, the clutch springs push the slide back to its relaxed position. So you are having to overcome the spring tension of the clutch pressure plate, which it the typical feel at your foot when you push the pedal down. When the slide grease dries out, or enough debris gets on the grease it dries out, so now you are having to overcome the dry, or non lubricated slide.  Worse yet, when grease gets contaminated, it can act more like glue or sludge making it harder to push the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also makes it harder for the clutch pressure plate springs to push the release bearing back to its relaxed position. Once the clutch pedal is released, the slide should return to the point where it no longer contacts the clutch pressure plate(or lightly touches). If the slide is gummed up enough the bearing cannot move away from the clutch pressure plate, and the bearing will continue to spin the entire time you are driving , which will lead to premature release bearing failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the slide is housed inside of the transmission bell housing. The only way to access it is to remove the transmission/transaxle to remove the slide, clean it and reinstall it with proper lubrication. If you do this, I would replace the clutch parts while there. The major cost of a clutch replacement is the labor, not the parts.  That being said you are looking at a clutch replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:43:17.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16537" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:51:47.460" Score="4" ViewCount="9902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering installing a starter motor immobilizing relay inline with the starter setting of the key and starter solenoid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a MAH-112-C-4 online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a 30A switching capacity, this seems to be way over specification to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what current is actually typically present in the wire from the key to the starter solenoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T10:20:43.423" Title="Current from key to solenoid of starter motor relay" Tags="|starter|key|relay|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16489" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:48:30.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is how this could have happened on the 2002 BMW I used to own. I know the guts of that car particularly well, I am sure the Saturn is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mileage is actually stored in two places in the car.  One place is the instrument cluster and the second is in the DME (the &quot;computer&quot;), both of those will count up the miles independently.  If the cluster is replaced it will have an incorrect mileage, but you can use the scan tool to have the cluster updated to the &quot;correct&quot; mileage as stored in the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bet is that when you bought the car, it had a junkyard or tampered instrument cluster put in that showed an incorrect 23k reading while the car's computer retained the correct 91k reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a battery fails it often generates lots of incorrect error codes because the low voltage confuses various sensors. So, after the battery was replaced the garage attached their scanner/programmer tool and fixed those errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the errors they fixed was correcting the incorrect cluster mileage using the mileage stored in the car's computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage did nothing wrong in all of this.  If you want to find out who is responsible for the 65k of instant mileage and depreciation, you would needed to go back to the person who sold you the car and fraudulently misrepresented the mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll include the same caveat as @Paulster2, if you bought this car new something much more interesting must have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T11:56:46.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T11:56:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2015-04-23T16:43:22.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen coins get dropped into the tracks and it will stop it cold, just like it has hit a stop at the end of travel. As the comment above says, remove the seat and look in the tracks for a coin. It is possible to see and get them out without removing the seat, sometimes, with something sticky on a screwdriver, or compressed air to blow it out. I hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T16:43:22.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16534" CreationDate="2015-04-23T16:44:15.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is more info than you would like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short of it is that it takes 8-10 amps to hold the solenoid in place while starting but the draw can spike to 30 amps while it is engaging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming that the ignition switch is carrying the current for the solenoid, new cars with push button starts and some other applications may have an extra relay in the mix that controls the current to the solenoid. Then it depends on which circuit you are switching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T20:28:02.523" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:28:02.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16489" CreationDate="2015-04-23T17:38:27.007" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saturn had a recall on this problem on L-Series vehicles. You may be having a similar problem on the S Series although I cannot find any information on it for your vehicle. Below is the recall info on the L-Series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2000 - 2002 Saturn L-Series Vehicles (All Models) # 02-C-02 - (Aug 16,&#xA;  2004)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;INACCURATE ODOMETER READING AFTER LOSS OF BATTERY POWER (REPROGRAM&#xA;  BCM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2000-2002 SATURN L-SERIES VEHICLES (ALL MODELS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Saturn Retailers and Service Providers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Saturn has decided that certain 2001 and 2002 model year L-Series&#xA;  vehicles were produced with Body Control Module (BCM) software that&#xA;  has a potential to calculate odometer values inaccurately. This can&#xA;  occur only after the vehicle has accumulated approximately 20,000&#xA;  miles and the battery is then disconnected or power is interrupted for&#xA;  other reasons. In addition, certain 2000, 2001 and 2002 L-Series&#xA;  vehicles serviced with a replacement Body Control Module may exhibit&#xA;  the same condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To prevent the possibility of this condition occurring, retailers will&#xA;  upgrade the BCM software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;VEHICLES INVOLVED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only selected 2000 - 2002 mode/year L-Series Saturn vehicles within&#xA;  the following VIN ranges will require this campaign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2002 Model Year VIN Range (All Models) = 500037 - 515922&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2001 Model Year VIN Range (All Models) = 500033 - 592301&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2000 Model Year VIN Range (All Models) = A VIN listing of involved&#xA;  vehicles is shown for your reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's at least worth checking out. Check with your local shop or GM dealer about reprogramming the BCM. Note this is not just correcting mileage in the BCM it's a software update. You can't just change the mileage in the BCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T17:38:27.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T18:40:56.873" Score="3" ViewCount="3986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Saturn SC2. I was told that adding a voltage stabilizer could improve its performance. Is this true? The units appear to simply be some capacitors hooked up between the battery terminals. Here's a link to the website for one such product: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pivotjp.com/product/raizin/raizin-e.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pivotjp.com/product/raizin/raizin-e.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10237" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T18:59:02.213" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T07:48:46.473" Title="Are 'voltage stabilizers' a scam?" Tags="|electrical|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39732" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:00:53.103" Score="4" ViewCount="17279" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the &quot;confidential vehicle identification&quot; number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cars bear that and where is it located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2142" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T21:29:41.017" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T03:49:28.280" Title="What is a &quot;confidential vehicle identification&quot; number?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15419" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:25:29.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a lot of information to go by. Did this happen suddenly? Gradually? It could be a misadjusted clutch pedal/master cylinder actuator rod. Try pulling up on the clutch pedal to see if it releases.  If not, locate the clutch master cylinder under the hood, or the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing and loosen the line at the master, or the bleeder valve at the slave. If fluid comes out under pressure, check to see if he clutch now works. If it does, you have a pedal to master cylinder adjustment issue not allowing the fluid to return to the master cylinder reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't help, you probably have a mechanical issue, like a clutch disk or pressure plate problem, or even a release bearing slide stuck. Good luck!  Let us know iWhat fixes it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T21:25:29.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:27:44.517" Score="7" ViewCount="30231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed my DOT3 brake fluid to DOT4 brake fluid. Will it hurt to mix DOT4 fluid with another brand of DOT4 fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10239" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:41:11.333" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T14:57:09.790" Title="Mixing brands of DOT4 brake fluid" Tags="|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:36:17.110" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sold a car on craigslist with part of the title being &quot;Runs, but one cylinder's out&quot;. I had taken the car to Firestone to diagnose why one cylinder wasn't firing right and they said it has 0% compression, and to continue diagnosing and fixing is going to cost thousands of dollars, so I took it home and put it out for sale. I explained all this to the buyer. The buyer (long after the sale) then came back to me and said that the head gasket is out, and that this has nothing to do with the cylinder. She's very upset, though I don't know why since a head gasket failure is a lot cheaper than an actual ruptured cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, as a layman (I know very little about auto mechanics), when I say &quot;the cylinder's out&quot;, such semantics are intended to suggest that there is a failure somewhere amongst the entire system of parts associated with a cylinder--actual cylinder itself, the piston, the fuel injector, the spark plug, the &lt;em&gt;head gasket&lt;/em&gt;, such that the functionality of that part of the motor is not functioning correctly (not firing or zero torque)--but I might have made an incorrect assumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To you mechanics out there, do you expect that if a courtroom judge were to read the advertisement, &quot;one cylinder's out&quot;, the judge should deem this to include a head gasket failure (rupture, chip, crack, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="477" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T01:36:17.110" Title="Would &quot;one cylinder's out&quot; semantics include a head gasket?" Tags="|engine|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-24T14:41:27.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2015-04-24T01:56:39.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the belt. On my 87 Mazda pickup the power steering belt is loose and it makes that sort of sound in exactly that same slow speed turning situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10240" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T15:39:37.963" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:39:37.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16354" CreationDate="2015-04-24T02:34:24.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the throttle plate is dirty, closing off the needed air for idle, causing the idle to be low, especially when cold when the engine needs more air to maintain proper idle speed. If the idle air control valve is compensating all it can to give more air, eventually it cannot go far enough to keep the engine running when cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try removing the intake boot at the throttle body, open the throttle plate and spray the plate and the bore with carburetor cleaner. You may need to run your fingers around it to loosen it he carbon build up, and maybe wipe it with a shop towel (not paper) and spray it again. Once clean you will need to put it back together and start the vehicle. You will need to start it with the gas pedal to the floor until it starts, then let off once the engine clears. Do not over rev the engine, just let it run up to 2000 or 3000 RPM's until it runs smoothly, then let it idle and see how it does. This will cause lots of smoke and foul smell. You may not be able to tell if it worked until the following day because once run and reved up, as you stated, it would idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also gave a sticking or defective idle air control valve.  But, first things first. Start with the easy thing and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! Let us know if this fixes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T02:34:24.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12065" CreationDate="2015-04-24T03:29:20.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure the relay is the correct one for that circuit. There are several relays in the fuse/relay panel and while they can be moved to another circuit, they may not have the amperage capacity to handle the load, and they will overheat and fail. For instance the headlight relay is the same configuration, and it will plug into the EFI relay spot, but the amp rating is lower on the headlight relay than the EFI or main relay, and can cause the relay to overheat. Someone may have swapped the relays around trying to check a couple of circuits and put them back in the wrong space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T03:29:20.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16550" CreationDate="2015-04-24T04:34:54.497" Score="5" ViewCount="57398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Honda Dio 2015 Model. Yesterday, I kept the Choke ON while riding. I wanted to know what are the damages it probably causes to the engine? Does it have any after effects on the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10242" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T11:16:34.563" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T08:42:14.750" Title="I accidentally kept my vehicle Choke ON while riding?" Tags="|engine|honda|scooter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16549" CreationDate="2015-04-24T06:40:46.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will not damage the engine at all. All that will happen is that it will run richer, thus using more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did it for thousands of miles you'd probably end up with more deposits in the engine/exhaust, but even that is easy to sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T06:40:46.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16543" CreationDate="2015-04-24T07:16:15.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOTX brake fluid will be the roughtly same for different brands. It will not do any damage to your vehicle when mixing brands. The thing you should keep in mind is that you need to put &lt;strong&gt;the same&lt;/strong&gt; DOTX in your car if you refill. DOT4 will perform a little better than DOT3 as it is more resistant agains higher temperatures. DOT5 will be used in the racing industry and will perform even better at even higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could compare it to your engine oil. Take for example 10W40 engine oil. These numbers stand for the viscosity of the oil. There are several brands selling these oils and the difference between the brands is that some of them use more or less additives. The more additives there are in your oil, the &quot;cleaner&quot; your engine will be thus they claim. For a more optimal combustion, you need to use more additives. More additives generally cost more. That's also why fuel of brand A is more expensive than brand X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So overall it doesn't really matter what brands you mix, but it &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; be better to stick with the same brand. Ironically I've been mixing brands of engine oil over the past three years and never experienced any difference to my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T07:16:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16525" CreationDate="2015-04-24T08:04:41.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was because of my stand being down :/ I've not been riding for too long and didn't even know they had that kill feature, am glad it is there, un-glad i had to walk! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10228" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T08:04:41.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16541" CreationDate="2015-04-24T10:02:02.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;confidential vehicle identification&lt;/em&gt; is just a VIN in a hidden place that is only known by the manufacturer and law enforcement. It is used to thwart car cloning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of this would be a VIN stamped into the wheel arch liner, ashtray, on the floor under the spare tyre , etc - i.e. a non-obvious location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T10:02:02.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14682" CreationDate="2015-04-24T12:34:03.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that putting an alternator on this car will fix the problem. It sounds more like a parasitic draw causing this issue. You may have to take your car to a specialty electrical shop, where they deal with these things all the time. There are ways to detect a draw that is just big enough to slowly draw power from the battery, and since you drive very little, it never has the chance to recover, allowing the battery to become discharged to the point that the alternator cannot recharge it in such a short drive time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there may be something electrical that is staying on when the car is off and just sitting overnight, which slowly lowers the voltage enough so it won't start in the morning. Eventually it cad permanently kill a battery as well. Unfortunately it can be a costly repair depending on how long it takes to find the issue. Inoperable this helps.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T12:34:03.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:34:19.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Several reasons:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First: Diesels have a very simple operation which is basically more air, more fuel = more power. On gasoline engines you have to worry more about running too lean, too hot, having incorrect timing. And, you generally already have enough air. You run at higher RPMs and suck in more air. Gasoline is much more volatile than Diesel. It burns very hot! Even most modern diesels now have inter-coolers to deal with the heat. But, with gasoline engines that's a bigger need as the higher exhaust temps are more easily reached. On a diesel it does help with exhaust temps as well, but it's also there just for added power as cooler air = more air. It likely adds less cost, in most cases, to a diesel than it does a gasoline engine because of the lack of additional complications to consider. And you are already paying a premium to get a diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second: Diesels typically have a more narrow effective power curves over RPMs. The main reason the domestic version of Diesel engines all seem to have a turbo is to help with that shorter power curve. You get 1/4 mile times a lot closer to the gasoline counterpart with no real extra complications other than the engine just has more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Addition: Diesels ignite their fuel from pressure, as opposed to spark. Thus,it makes more sense to add a turbo to increase the volumetric efficiency in order for compression based ignition to occur. When adding additional air to a Diesel you are helping with the ignition process. When you do that on a gasoline engine you are also helping, but that's only a good thing to a point and then you can create knocking (pre-ignition or pinging), timing issues, etc. You are increasing pressure on a platform that isn't designed to run at higher compression like a diesel is. Diesels are designed to run on much higher compression because that is how they ignite their fuel (pressure/not spark). So, adding a little more compressed air won't hurt it. In fact, it helps your fuel burn cleaner and may even increase the life of your engine as less carbon buildup from un-burnt fuel occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:48:26.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16549" CreationDate="2015-04-24T16:52:19.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'worst case scenario' that I can think of is this.  Your spark plugs become fouled because the motor ran too rich and the bike doesn't start.  You would need to remove the spark plugs and clean them with a carb or brake cleaner and re-install them.  Don't worry about your vehicle.  It's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T16:52:19.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16543" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:00:45.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - Mixing &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brand X&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; fluid with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brand Y&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; fluid is of no consequence, as long as you are mixing the same grade of fluid (DOT3, 4, 5, or 5.1). In order to be rated at a given grade, it must meet the prerequisites of the grade. This has to do with wet/dry boiling points, not who makes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; mix DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 together (each of which is glycol ether/borate ether based), but after doing so would need to consider it as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the lowest DOTx which is in the mix&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Do not try to mix DOT5 in with any of the others, as it is silcone based and there will be adverse effects from it. DOT5 is primarily used by the military, with some application in racing, but is not used very often in consumer vehicles. Silicone based fluid is not compatible with anti-lock braking systems, which is the reason it isn't used very often in consumer vehicles. It is, however, used extensively in extreme-cold environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:00:45.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16562" CreationDate="2015-04-25T02:35:22.360" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Astra G 2.2. It was working just fine, no issues. Recently passed MOT with no advisories or issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I topped up the oil and replaced the overhead interior bulbs with LEDs. They aren't the &quot;boy-racer&quot; LEDs bought cheaply online. They are basic white LEDs designed and spec'd for the car bought from Halfords. They fitted no problem and worked great, still no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then took the car out for a drive and for the first 30 minutes things were fine. Then I was driving along and suddenly the red battery light came on and I lost traction control, ABS, powering steering and airbags (the warning lights for all these came on). The car was still running and I managed to drive home, very slowly and carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interior and exterior lights are still working, although the high beams won't go on. Radio, wipers and indicators will still come on, but the car won't start after I turned it off when I got back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have the &quot;Engine Electrical Fault&quot; fault light on now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the battery with a voltmeter while still connected and the engine running and with the engine not and it clocks in at 9.10V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it coincidental this only happened when I fitted the new LED bulbs in the interior but does anyone have a better idea of what this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10252" LastEditorUserId="10252" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T02:42:20.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T02:46:27.763" Title="Astra G 2.2 - Electrical Issue" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16561" CreationDate="2015-04-25T02:46:27.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - It sounds as though you have either a bad alternator, a bad battery, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be the alternator which went bad and then allowed the vehicle to drain the battery. This seems most likely. You can check this if you have the engine running by putting the multimeter on the battery for a period of time and check the voltage. If it continues to drop, it's the alternator due to it not putting out juice to keep the vehicle running. When fully charged the battery should be ~13.1vdc ... With the engine running, a good alternator, and a charged battery, the system output should be around 14.1-14.5vdc. Each vehicle model is going to be a little different with where it runs nominally. ~9vdc is &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; low on all counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery could be bad. If you have a battery charger, put it on the battery and see if it will recharge. I would bet it will, unless it is an old battery which couldn't take the abuse of losing the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I doubt it had anything to do with the LED's either ... they will actually put less of a load on the system, so ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T02:46:27.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16540" CreationDate="2015-04-25T03:23:37.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a skeptic about such things, I did some research on the internet about the voltage stabilizers. There seems to be several different manufacturers out there, which all claim the same basic thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Improved audio quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Increased torque and response and power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stabilized idling and improved engine kick over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Increased headlight brightness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Improved fuel economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Improved battery life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked about performance, I'll focus on the that portion of it. The claim on the Raizin website states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;82% Improved Performance Recognizability - From a group of 50 monitors, 41 sensed a performance improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this actually mean? &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Absolutely nothing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Why? It's all subjective. On their website, there is absolutely no empirical data showing there was an improvement. No dyno pulls before and after. Nothing. They were relying on Seat-Of-The-Pants-Dyno to provide them with whether there was an improvement or not. Even the most calibrated butt needs about a 15-20hp difference for the change to be noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/interior-electrical/impp-1010-voltage-stabilizers-can-increase-power-and-torque-fact-fiction/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these before/after dyno runs&lt;/a&gt; out there for consumption. The most they registered was an approximate 3hp gain. There is no way anyone, even with a butt with hemorrhoids, could tell the difference of 3hp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I am very skeptical of the dyno charts they present on the given website. There is an issue with how they present the graphs. Because HP is a mathematical derivative of the torque output, they will &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; intersect each other at 5,252 rpm. If you look at the dyno graphs they present, they cross somewhere near 4,750 rpm. Due to this, I'm doubting the veracity of the chart itself. They may have, however, just copied the data over wrong, or something else rather stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom line here: &lt;strong&gt;The capacitors do not do what they say they do for performance.&lt;/strong&gt; I will grant you that 3hp is still 3hp, though. I guess if you are looking for that last ounce of go power from your car, you could get one, but I'm not seeing enough improvement to warrant it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T03:23:37.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16566" CreationDate="2015-04-20T11:50:10.527" Score="2" ViewCount="3930" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, on my van which is negative-grounded, all fuses are somewhere between the positive terminal and the load being protected by the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some switches are on the positive, some on the negative side. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ignition switch switches the positive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sliding door switch switches the negative. This controls the light in the load bay, which is otherwise un-switched directly to the battery's positive via a fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have thought the positive should ideally be switched, since otherwise if a mechanic or user assumes there is no potential around the switched item while it is off, he would be wrong if it is ground switched. (The wires to the load still have positive potential with respect to the chassis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What reasons might there be for negative connected switches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can give more info if required. (I'm following the Haynes manual which has pages and pages of circuits. I'm not entirely sure what's relevant for this question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10020" OwnerDisplayName="Jodes" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T16:50:05.467" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T11:57:52.780" Title="Negative-grounded vehicles: some switches on positive, some on negative, why?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16565" CreationDate="2015-04-20T12:34:57.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really for convenience, or economical reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's have a look at the light inside a car, which is controlled by switches at the four doors. If you want to switch the positive side, you need cables from the fuse box to each of the switches, as well as cables back to the lamp (upper schematic). If you switch the negative side, you need a single cable to the lamp, and just one cable to each switch - the circuit is closed via the chassis. So, you can save several meters of cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jLZP.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars also have a switch for the lamp: normal operation / always on / always off. This can easily be implemented in the second design. For the first, you also need a cable from the fuse box to the lamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now think about the starter: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's shorter to have a cable from the fuse box below the steering wheel to the ignition lock to a relay near the motor than it is when having a cable from the fuse box to the relay, back to the key lock (locations may differ for different cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" OwnerDisplayName="sweber" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T16:52:57.163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:52:57.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T17:36:12.720" Score="2" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Ka 2010 and the alarm siren stopped sounding. The problem doesn't  look related to the alarm central unit. The lights still flash and you can hear the relay clicking sound coming from the central panel when the alarm goes off, but no sound is heard from the alarm siren. If knew where it is located and what it look like it would be of great help! Anyone? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3082" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T16:38:30.447" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T16:38:30.447" Title="Where is the alarm siren located in a Ford Ka 2010?" Tags="|ford|alarm|ka|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T23:42:37.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Toyota Avalon FOB stopped working, have a replacement.  Now believe accidentally deactivated vehicle's ECU by turning ignition on/off 5 times during process of adding new FOB. So now, how can I get receiver in car to accept signal codes from remote? It is not a smart key system!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10257" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T16:36:24.983" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T20:40:15.303" Title="2005 Toyota Avalon how to reactivate vehicle's ECU" Tags="|toyota|electronic-control-module|fob|avalon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16569" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:34:53.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not enough information to make sure I am answering the question. Why do you believe that the ECU has been deactivated? Does the car not start? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of the procedure that your used, but take a look at these instructions and try to reprogram the remote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the key from the ignition. Lock all of the doors, but open the driver’s side door. Leave it unlocked. Insert the key into the ignition twice within five seconds. Don’t turn it. Close then open the door twice. Insert the key again then remove it from the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close then open the driver’s side door. Close then open the driver’s side door again. Insert the key. Leave it in the ignition. Close the door. Turn the key to “On,” without starting the engine, and then turn it off. Remove the key. You’ll hear the door locks sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push and hold “Lock” and “Unlock” buttons on the remote for two seconds, and then release the buttons. Then push and hold “Lock” for three seconds. The remote is now programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this the remote should work after this. If the car would not start before, try it after locking the car with the remote, unlocking it and then open the drivers door put the key in and try to start it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, not sure I'm answering this correctly based on your short description.  If not, try to clarify the issue and we'll see if there is a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T00:34:53.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T10:36:15.130" Score="6" ViewCount="2952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Ka and need to re-enter the code. I have removed the radio and have the code (some nice person wrote it on the top of the radio) but I cannot get the &quot;Locked&quot; message off the screen on the radio to enter the code. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10263" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T15:30:35.157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T13:16:43.607" Title="Ford radio unlocking" Tags="|ford|audio|ka|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16574" CreationDate="2015-04-26T14:42:08.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two types of locks - if you have entered an incorrect code too many times it may be a garage visit (Lock13)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock10 is when you have entered an incorrect code 10 times (I think) and can be cleared by holding the &quot;6&quot; button while turning the unit on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you enter the security code the normal way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Display Shows CODE with &quot; - - - - &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press Preset Button 1 until the 1st digit is set, then do the same for digits 2, 3 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then press Preset Button 5 to Enter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:37:41.257" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:37:41.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16419" CreationDate="2015-04-26T15:23:52.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see in the diagram below, that the way many EGR's work is that there are two hoses, one which opens the valve when a particular set of conditions is met such as when engine temperature and manifold absolute pressure reach a certain threshold, and a second hose which connects to a regulator which prevents the intake from being flooded with too much exhaust gas which would choke the engine.  Exactly how it works varies from engine to engine, but that's the basic idea I think.  This is from page 272 of the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1566375770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto Fundamentals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qZ6i4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:23:52.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2015-04-26T15:32:10.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are going to race, the rear brakes are more than adequate whatever type fitted. If you fit a parking brake to a rear disc setup you need either an auxiliary drum or the parking brake will need adjusting very regularly. Jags fitted parking brakes to discs and were a total nuisance. If you drove off without fully releasing the handbrake you had no handbrake until it was adjusted.One of the problems with brakes nowadays is that folks expect them to function without attention forever. If you want them to work, strip and clean them at least every 10k. Drums accumulate brake dust and discs need the calipers freeing and greasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10266" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T15:40:13.997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:40:13.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T19:16:45.647" Score="2" ViewCount="3028" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I extend/make a hole oval? It is in a rectangular beam (6 cm) and needs to be extended 5mm in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mounting a tow bar, I discovered that some holes in the tow bar are not aligned with the pre-drilled holes in my cars frame. So, I need to extend the holes in the car frame (since those in the tow bar are threaded and cannot be altered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should I use a file and some patience? Or will some smart trick save me some time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I ended up filing for about an hour and that made the trick. I think that an experienced metalworker could do it in much less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2408" LastEditorUserId="2408" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T19:51:19.977" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T19:51:19.977" Title="How extend a drilled hole" Tags="|body-work|frame|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16578" CreationDate="2015-04-26T19:26:57.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking you can do one of four things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a larger drill bit and make the hole bigger, though 5mm (half a centimeter) is a bit of a distance to do this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the right size of drill bit (same as threaded bolt width) somewhat like a mill and elongate it. To do this, you'd place the bit horizontal to the hole and work it up and down slowly while applying sideways pressure to eat the metal away. This would work much faster than a file would. You'd need to be careful not to apply too much pressure while doing this or your drill bit will snap. (NOTE: I'm suggesting the drill would be running during this procedure.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a rotary tool eat away the metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a Sawzall to chew up the metal. &lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This would be a last choice option. A Sawzall can do &lt;em&gt;a lot of damage&lt;/em&gt; in a short period of time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T13:22:03.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T13:22:03.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2015-04-27T03:12:00.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me as well with my ek...ON BOTH SIDES... I spent 6 hours grinding, drilling and cutting before I got the bolt and the round tap nut off the first time, the second only took 2 hours since I knew what I was doing from Before,then I just replaced them with a new nut and bolt, just make sure they're the right size or they'll back themselves out when driving which is potentially disastrous...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10269" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T03:12:00.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16512" CreationDate="2015-04-27T05:19:22.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By removing the baffles you have reduced the amount of restriction and backpressure. This has the effect of making the engine run lean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get the carbs tuned so that it's running properly, it should run as well as it did before you performed the baffle-ectamy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a free-er flowing exhaust it may even run better. But that's only if the original exhaust was overly restrictive to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T05:19:22.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T05:50:45.717" Score="5" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gave my bike (Yamaha FZS ver 2.0) to an authorized service center for it's first-time service. The mechanic didn't fit the drainbolt (which is under the engine) properly causing the engine oil to leak/drain completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unaware of this, I drove for ~50kms till the engine seized. The service center manager is suggesting replacing the borekit (and not the engine ). The bike is under warranty.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest the best course of action also explaining why the particular parts/procedure should be replaced/carried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10270" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T16:32:21.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T14:07:52.213" Title="Yamaha FZS Ver- 2.0 Engine Seizure" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil|warranty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T07:00:48.567" Score="4" ViewCount="5262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 1.4 petrol Corsa D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating the car lurches. This doesn't happen all the time and is seemingly random. It may happen when I accelerate from 60 on the motorway back to 70 or 30 to 40 etc. It feels like it loses power for a split second then regains power and loses it again until stabilising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential symptom is that the engine ticks. This again isn't constant but seems to happen after driving for a couple of minutes. It isn't noticeable when driving.&#xA;The tick stays constant and does not change when applying any throttle (the sound just fades into the background).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No warning lights present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what the cause of this is? If you need any more information let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10271" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T06:50:02.683" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T06:21:01.803" Title="Opel Corsa D engine issue?" Tags="|engine|vauxhall|acceleration|opel|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T08:25:42.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2007 model Skoda Fabia 1.4Ltr mpl. My air conditioning trips off after driving for 5minute. Hardly stays on during traffic. Fan still rolls but cooling stops. Also noticed it tries staying on for a while but only when I increase the fan speed and am on high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It cools very well at those times it stays on. Kindly assist with possible problems and solution. I want to know if its the compressor failing (which I guess not . Or something is wrong somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T11:17:31.023" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:12:39.183" Title="Air-conditioning intermittent failure" Tags="|ac|skoda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2015-04-27T10:02:09.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect 2 things. Check the switch/fuse that runs the ac. Possible fault frm there.&#xA;Or&#xA;Check the compressor. If its old, change it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10262" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T10:02:09.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16585" CreationDate="2015-04-27T11:33:33.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest your refrigerant is low and needs a recharge. It can get to a point where there is enough for the A/C to kick on, but not enough to actually cool it for very long. When the system sits idle, the refrigerant will equalize in the system between the low/high sides. When in this state, it will cool the interior of your car for a short period of time, then the cooling capacity will diminish. With it correctly recharged, you should be in good shape. I doubt there is anything mechanically wrong with the system, mainly because it &lt;em&gt;does work&lt;/em&gt;, just for a short period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T17:12:39.183" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:12:39.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T13:36:12.140" Score="1" ViewCount="6664" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughters accord idles really rough after driving it for about 10 minutes, but not as you are driving it, only when you stop. Then, when she stops, the car usually shuts off. It normally starts fine, even after shutting off. We have checked the codes and it comes up with something for the transmission (shift control valve I think). We have checked the transmission and it is fine...no problems shifting, etc. If she turns the A/C on, it makes the problem worse....if the a/c is not on, or we shut it off when the car idles high, it usually helps, but doesn't always keep it from shutting off. The car runs smooth, drives really well, no other weird noises, knocking or smells. We have checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the throttle body, and checked the ignition switch. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10273" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T08:33:57.913" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T13:28:55.410" Title="1998 Honda Accord V6 - Rough Idle/Stalling" Tags="|accord|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16508" CreationDate="2015-04-27T14:05:13.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the carburetor just needed to be rebuilt. Once I was able to do that, the tractor took a second to start up, but it ran great afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T14:05:13.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:06:53.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it costs less than 10 dollars to change a PCV you should just go ahead and replace it. I've seen them fail enough times to know its safer that way. Especially if your having head gasket changes or tune ups done to your vehicle. A lot of the time the PCV is in the same area as these jobs and can become worn in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10277" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T17:22:14.817" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:22:14.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15304" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:24:36.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you need to look at the rear bushing of the front wheel control arms. These are made of rubber on most cars and don't last beyond 100k. The thunk you feel is because a normal bushing has firm hold of the connection with the control arm, where as your control arm is probably loosely held in place by worn rubber. When you accelerate, the forces normally transmitted to the wheel to get the car rolling must first settle into the loose bushing cavity, sometimes quite  violently, creating the thunk you feel or a lack of immediate acceleration. It will also thunk when you come to a stop, since the stopping forces that hold the control arm firmly in the loose cavity will be gone when stopped, so the control arm will re settle . It will only get worse and make your cars handling unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10279" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T17:22:49.320" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:22:49.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16588" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:27:11.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a clear sign of a dirty/carbon-ed up throttle body. This video will show you how to fix it:&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPcdvSBks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPcdvSBks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:27:11.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16594" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:33:34.520" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHomz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed a loose part on my 1995 mercury tracer trio. Honestly, I am unsure of the name of the part and its importance. It's the black plastic piece under the front bumper and it's hanging but one of the two bolts. The hole where one of the bolts goes through is ripped. Can I just take this piece off and not replace it or is this a critical part of the car?  Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastEditorUserId="4512" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T15:26:09.703" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T02:58:39.530" Title="Is a loose part on a 1995 Mercury Tracer important?" Tags="|part-identification|replace|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16593" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:05:11.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what the piece is you are talking about. Some vehicles have an air dam on the bottom of the car which forces air to flow through the radiator while the vehicle is running down the road. This piece would (in its normal position) extend directly down under neath the radiator core. You'd also have a space just in front of the piece where you could see the radiator. If this is the piece, it is &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; important. If it's not there, the car engine will run hot while you are driving at speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just a piece which covers other parts of the bottom front side, it's not very important and can be removed if you don't mind the ugly aspect of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please note, if you remove a piece which covers vital bits/pieces (such as the radiator), it can leave these parts exposed to the elements and flying road debris. Choose wisely if the piece in question &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; cover any of these vital parts prior to removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those cases where a picture could be worth a 1000 words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T23:21:22.963" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T23:21:22.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16582" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:13:08.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The majority of the damage is more than likely in the bottom end of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom end components such as plain bearings for the connecting rods and the crankshaft main bearings are more than likely absolutely destroyed.  Plain bearings rely on oil pressure to push oil in between the journal and the plain bearing creating situation called hydrodynamic lubrication where the surface of the journal is 'floating' on a thin film of oil between the journal and the plain bearing.  Without hydrodynamic lubrication, which requires oil pressure, the bearing and journal will begin to degrade from metal to metal contact.  Once these surfaces touch one another they begin to self destruct.  In so doing, the crankshaft bearing surfaces for the offset and main journals are more than likely destroyed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a distinct possibility that the engine cases are damaged as well.  As the plain bearing for the crankshaft are destroyed due to lack of lubrication, the crankshaft can wear through the soft lead and nickel plain bearings and into the aluminum of the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly enough, the bore of the cylinder may be just fine.  The piston and rings need splash lubrication and may have survived the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T14:07:52.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T14:07:52.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T18:32:47.003" Score="16" ViewCount="6638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always had the habit of shifting to neutral on long declines and using the brakes to slow down as needed. Intuition made me believe I'd be saving fuel as opposed to keeping a gear engaged. However, I noticed that the on-board fuel consumption display shows 0.9 of consumption (I assume this is how much it's using while idle) but by keeping a gear engaged, using it to slow down, the counter goes all the way to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this reading is plausible, then why is it that keeping the gear engaged saves me fuel as compared to neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should add that this is a manual transmission vehicle, in case it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10280" LastEditorUserId="10280" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T19:08:06.557" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T16:21:11.673" Title="Is shifting to neutral on a decline more fuel efficient than keeping the gear engaged?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|gears|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:20:03.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand your primary motive is to save fuel but there are certain risks you encounter when going down a steep grade, especially with corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will prone to 'ride your brakes' if you are required to slow down repeatedly OR are attempting to maintain a certain speed going down the grade.  If you are constantly using your brakes in these situations you are increasing your chances of several things occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warped Rotors - Overheating your rotors could warp them and you will have a vibration in your steering when applying the brakes after this occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Glazed Rotors/Pads - you can glaze your rotors and pads.  When your overheat your brakes and they are getting extremely hot the pad will begin it's conversion from a solid to a gas due to excessive heat.  These gasses get trapped against the surface of the rotor and pad and fuse in a different from original state and put a very low friction surface on the surface of the rotor and pad.  The effect is essentially, you cannot stop.  Once pads and rotors are glazed you will frequently need to replace them as well as the brake fluid that may have become too hot and changed a bit chemically as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding neutral down grades can be dangerous for those reasons, potential vehicle damage, as well as to your own safety if your brakes were to overheat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using your engine to keep you at a particular rate of speed going down the grade is the safest and recommended way to descend a steep grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://travel.thefuntimesguide.com/2005/07/downhilldriving.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;excellent article on driving tips for descending hills.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T19:20:03.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-04-27T20:37:32.807" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As DucatiKiller notes, coasting downhill in neutral is usually considered unsafe, as it increases the chances of overheating your brakes.  It is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://skeptics.stackexchange.com/a/17334/6308&quot;&gt;illegal in many jurisdictions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions about driving techniques are &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1/are-driving-questions-on-topic&quot;&gt;generally off topic here&lt;/a&gt;, but you do have a question about how engines work that I think is (maybe marginally) appropriate: why do you get better mileage when coasting in gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you coast in neutral, the only source of energy to keep the engine running is burning fuel to idle it.  You consume the same amount of fuel as if you were stopped in neutral.  (You don't want to turn off the engine completely, as then you will not have power steering, power brakes, air conditioning, or any other accessories.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you coast in gear, most modern cars have a feature called &lt;em&gt;deceleration fuel cutoff&lt;/em&gt;.  (If someone knows of a good link about this, please mention it; I had trouble finding one.)  When coasting in gear, the wheels supply plenty of energy to keep the engine running, and in turn runs the car's other systems.  So the car can, and does, shut off the fuel supply completely, reducing your fuel consumption to zero.  (A side benefit of this is that you get better engine braking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in answer to your question: on a modern car, shifting to neutral on a decline is typically &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; fuel efficient, in addition to being less safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:46.633" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T20:37:32.807" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16603" CreationDate="2015-04-27T22:10:40.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right after buying an used Yamaha XJ600N, I found that the rust in its fuel tank had clogged the fuel filter causing the motorcycle to lose power and until the engine died. The service station cleaned the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter. One year later, I am worried about the condition of my filter as I don't want it to stop in the middle of a ride again. Is it possible to look at the fuel filter and figure out if needs replacing? Or does it come as a sealed unit that I simply need to replace based on some estimate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done 2000 kilometres after having the filter replaced last year, and have made a conscientious attempt to keep the tank full most of the time. I live in a cold country where it snows in winter, so I only rode it three or four times in winter, but I kept the motorcycle in a relatively warm garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10281" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T23:59:16.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T06:21:38.683" Title="Is it possible to check if the fuel filter on a Yamaha XJ600 is getting clogged?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|yamaha|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-04-27T22:13:31.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/681/57&quot;&gt;Over on the linked question&lt;/a&gt;, I talked about how engine braking works to reduce fuel consumption at a high level:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Coasting: nothing much. The transmission is effectively disengaged&#xA;  (it's more complicated than that but it's a reasonable approximation).&#xA;  The engine is idling - burning fuel to keep itself spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Engine braking: the transmission is engaged and the whole system's net&#xA;  friction (from the wheels, axles, driveshafts, all the way to the&#xA;  moving pistons) is acting as a brake. The engine is running in a&#xA;  vacuum state (throttle is effectively closed) and the motion of the&#xA;  wheels are helping to keep the engine spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do either cause undue wear? No. I wouldn't advise engine braking down&#xA;  the hill in a low gear near the redline (as you might run past the rev&#xA;  limiter) but you aren't anywhere near that state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does one save more fuel than another? Yes, engine braking is much more&#xA;  efficient. I talk about why that is in this similar question but&#xA;  suffice to say that the free energy provided to the engine from the&#xA;  turning wheels helps a lot. Put your car in the highest gear available&#xA;  to minimize the drivetrain friction on the way down the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nice video on Engineering Explained that discusses the whys and hows of engine braking and efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_bZlb62VVlw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video about efficiency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tl;dr is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proof by existence: you have a numerical measurement that shows that fuel consumption is less when using engine braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passes BS detector: if the wheels can keep the engine turning, why should it use fuel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T16:21:11.673" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T16:21:11.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16615" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:07:13.533" Score="4" ViewCount="15068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the answer to this applies to many models of Dodge and probably Chrysler, Jeep, and Plymouth, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the answer for newer (2001 Ram truck) vehicles but nothing I've found works on my van.  The solutions I tried were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press trip meter button to show trip mileage, then turn ignition on, off, on, off, on and leave it.&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press trip meter button and hold for 10 seconds while ignition on then ignition off, on, off, on and leave it.&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition on and wait, then ignition off, on, off, on and wait.&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all these solutions nothing is shown on the trip meter, no lights blink in anyway different then a normal ignition on without toggling on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the P codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My check engine light is on (the malfunction indicator lamp/light or mil as some call it).  The light remains on after starting and stays on while driving... it's always on when the ignition is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10282" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:35:52.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T16:50:01.650" Title="How do I retrieve the check engine codes without a scanner for a 1999 Dodge Ram Van 3500?" Tags="|dodge|cel|mil|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16599" CreationDate="2015-04-28T00:22:15.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can relatively easily determine if your fuel filter is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XJ600 has a vacuum operated fuel pump below the downdraft carb bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bfT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock fuel filter is an inline filter and this is what it looks like.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTyWf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm sure you have noticed, the filter is a bit opaque and you can see if it is clogged.  It's very easy to replace by simply pulling off the fuel line on either side and doing the revers to install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's opaque you should have a good idea of whether it is clogged or not by visual inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to remove the fuel tank to access the area behind the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the petcock has a fuel filter incorporated into it.  There are two screws to remove it from the fuel tank if you flip it upside down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use carb cleaner to clean the fuel screen/filter after removal from the fuel tank.  A very simple procedure since it only has two screws holding it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T06:21:38.683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T06:21:38.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T02:27:55.193" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say, one gets new directional tyres that are warranted to 60k miles and have 11/32&quot; of tread when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one rotates them at 20k miles (if directional; otherwise, at 10k, 20k and 30k, if non-directional and using a cross rotation), and then finds out at 40k miles that all four have reached their end of life --  2/32&quot; of tread left (or, alternatively, some at 2/32&quot;, others at 3/32&quot;) -- would that generally be a warrantable condition, or could the less frequent tyre rotation as above really shorten the life of the tyres by so much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how less frequent rotation should realistically shorten the life of a tyre set by so much -- the whole purpose of rotation is to make sure the tyres wear out evenly, so you run a better luck of having to replace all of them at once, having better handling overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the above line of thought considered wrong?  If so, does the other side have any proof to back up their claim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, each mile gets that many nm of tread from front and rear axles each (or, as pointed out in one of the answers, from each individual tyre, due to differential imperfections), what difference does the rotation make to the total nm of tread eaten out by each mile from the set overall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T02:34:04.013" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T02:34:04.013" Title="Does more frequent tyre rotation make tyres last any longer?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16397" CreationDate="2015-04-28T03:21:53.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer anyone who runs across such an issue, the culprit of this cause was the (radiator/ coolant) hose that runs to the engine block. on the day car overheated, the end of the hose got burnt bad and sprung a leak. I got the hose replaced and no more leaks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T03:21:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16606" CreationDate="2015-04-28T06:19:43.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the warranty, the warranty would cover what it clearly states it will cover.  I can't really answer that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding even tire wire and rotating as a strategy to achieve even wear across the tires, I'll try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most vehicles on the road today, there is one power wheel.  On my Toyota Tacoma it's the right rear.  It wears faster as most of the power is passing through it to drive the the vehicle forward.  As such, it wears faster.  As does the front right on a Honda Civic, I believe.  Nonetheless, rotating the power wheel is a great idea.  It's an effective strategy to get the tires to wear out at the same time.  If you don't do it, they won't wear evenly and you will be replacing tires one or a pair at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T06:19:43.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T06:57:34.600" Score="4" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years back, I've been told by a tyre salesmen that directional tyres need rotation more often than non-directional ones, like every 5k miles or sooner, since they can only go back and forth, so you must make sure they have more even wear, since you can't switch left-to-right.  (Mind you, it was at an America's Tire, that does tyre rotation free of charge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as per discussion at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16606/does-more-frequent-tyre-rotation-make-tyres-last-any-longer&quot;&gt;Does more frequent tyre rotation make tyres last any longer?&lt;/a&gt;, it would appear that such uneven-axle-wear property -- that you can't really do much about differential imperfection -- would actually appear to make the frequent rotation more useful to non-directional tyres, since you'd probably want each tyre to travel on each wheel during its lifetime equally, whereas on directional tyres nothing like that is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, &lt;strong&gt;it would seem like in perfect conditions, at least 3 rotations are warranted for non-directional tyres, and at least 1 for directional ones&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guesstimate that in practice, &lt;strong&gt;since it's difficult to predict how long the tyres will last&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;the cycle with directional is so much shorter than with non-directional -- only 1 vs. 3&lt;/strong&gt; -- that directional tyres warranted to 60k really have no purpose being rotated prior to 15k to 20k, unless you really expect to get fewer than 30k or 40k miles out of it, respectively, whereas &lt;strong&gt;it's the non-directional ones that would benefit from the less-than-6k mile rotation the most&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense, or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T02:35:11.410" Title="Do directional tyres need less tyre rotation than non-directional?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-04-28T09:22:35.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your fuel consumption indicator will be using a combination of the throttle position sensor, manifold pressure sensor and/or airflow meter to calculate your fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While coasting with your foot off the gas, the throttle would be fully closed and the manifold pressure would be negative/vaccuum. The computer would read this as absolute minimum value and therefore say zero fuel consumption. You shouldn't take this as an absolute truth as if there was zero fuel the engine would die/stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were coasting in neutral you'd have the same throttle position but probably not as much manifold vaccuum/airflow. Therefore it would return a slightly higher value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T09:22:35.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16354" CreationDate="2015-04-28T10:13:42.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to resolve the starting issue by replacing the IAC valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T10:13:42.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16601" CreationDate="2015-04-28T14:43:15.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagnostic systems in cars get upgraded every few years. It wasn't until the early 2000's that car manufacturers really started to integrate ways of displaying diagnostic info without an OBD scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically if it is not included in the shop manual it is not a feature on that car. Your best bet is to go to the local autoparts store or shop and have them read it for you for free. Also recommend getting one online for $15 as you never know when it will come in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10293" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T14:43:15.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T15:27:16.983" Score="2" ViewCount="4823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new set of tires for my 2007 Frontier.  Capitol Precision Trac are the make.  Before I replaced the worn tires my truck never shook and was always smooth no matter the speed.  Now even after having the tires balanced upon installation and a 4 wheel alignment my truck shakes at speeds over 60 MPH. I took it back to the place that put on my tires and had them recheck the balance of the tires and they said that they were good. I had BF Goodrich A/T on prior to these.  What could still be causing this issue?  Or is it the brand of tire I chose?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10294" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T08:39:56.160" Title="Steering wheel vibration at 60+ MPH" Tags="|tires|wheels|steering|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16616" CreationDate="2015-04-28T15:34:55.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the holes into which the wheel nuts fit are elongated, allowing the wheels to be off-centre ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or ( dare I say it ) that the wheel nuts are loose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or a wheel/tyre could be elliptical. This should have been picked up by the balancing test but I guess it's possible for a wheel to be balanced but elliptical. You could check this by jacking the wheels up and spinning them by hand, looking for any high/flat spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3902" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T15:34:55.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T17:37:55.970" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Codes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0101 mass air flow circuit failure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P01071 bank 1 lean and P0174 bank 2 lean. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did a replacement of the intake manifold gaskets and a fuel injector de-carbonization service. After 40 miles of driving the check engine light came back on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to what may be wrong? EGR valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10297" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T17:52:17.067" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T02:03:21.063" Title="2004 Chevy Silverado 4.8 check engine light on" Tags="|engine|fuel-injection|p0101|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:25:55.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether using directional or non-directional makes no difference in how a tire should wear nor its rotation schedule. The reason why is, it's the tread which makes it directional or non-directional, not the core of the tire, nor the rubber which is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tirerack.com&lt;/a&gt;, they state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A directional (also called a unidirectional) tread pattern is designed to roll in only one direction. It incorporates lateral grooves on both sides of the tire's centerline that point in the same direction and result in v-shaped tread blocks. &lt;strong&gt;These grooves enhance hydroplaning resistance at high speeds by pumping water more efficiently through the tread pattern.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless they are dismounted and remounted on their wheels to accommodate use on the other side of the vehicle, directional tires are to be used on one side of the vehicle and are intended to be rotated from the front axle to the rear axle. If different tire sizes are used on the front vs. rear axle, the tires become location-specific and prohibit tire rotation unless remounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing which is going to affect the longevity of a tire is how the tire is used. If the tire is a soft compound tire and is driven hard, it will wear out faster. If it is a hard compound tire and is only driven on the highway, it's going to last longer. In this case, increasing/decreasing the rotation schedule may have an affect on it's longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, using the rotation schedule provided by the manufacturer will provide the best longevity for the tire. It should be based on how the tire is built, its compound, load range, and speed rating. Every manufacturer is going to set their rotation schedule based on what they believe there tires need, so there probably is nothing corresponding between them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T18:25:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:13:31.967" Score="3" ViewCount="3306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a car with adjustable steering wheel distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to pull the seat all the way back and if I do so, my arms are straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes driving very uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People selling them are not usually listing this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to find which models have this as a standard/option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T23:50:45.027" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T00:43:51.120" Title="How to find a used car with telescoping steering wheel?" Tags="|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16616" CreationDate="2015-04-28T22:46:29.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though one of your tires may have a slipped belt. This is pretty hard to diagnose because there isn't any real physical manifestation of it except for one of more of your tires being out of round. I don't believe this shows up when doing the balancing because it's more of a rolling thing. You can, however, rotate the tires front to back and see if the vibrations follows (if you can tell). From there, you'd need to localize it to left or right. Then get the tire company to buy off on it. You should not have been suffering this long with the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the brand of tires, it seems they have a fairly decent reputation. There was a recall on about 95,000 tires, but these were ones produced in 2009-2010, so I doubt you'd have these. You could check on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/20141126/NEWS/141129903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for information on the recall to see if they match yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T22:46:29.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2015-04-29T01:51:10.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just experienced the same deal. However, the fix didn't entail any sort of weird mechanical voodoo. I just changed the battery on the key fob. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms were the following: (1) was able to control door locks remotely, (2) the key hole would emit weird clicking sounds, (3) the status on the console read &quot;Key Error&quot;. I called my trusted Volvo mechanic and his first suggestion was to just change the battery first. Worked like a charm!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 2005 S40, you'll need a CR2032 with the positive end down. All the best to y'all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10304" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T01:51:10.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T03:26:39.453" Score="6" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with my 97 1.8T Quattro using coolant. I've checked for external leaks and can't find any.  The engine oil is still clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody had this issue before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for it to be leaving through the head gasket and out the exhaust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10308" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T05:16:33.557" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T10:16:07.027" Title="1997 1.8t Audi Quattro - using coolant" Tags="|coolant|audi|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16631" CreationDate="2015-04-29T04:28:38.923" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding with a friend and he insisted that it's better for me to switch off the AC before turning off the engine because when you turn on the car the AC won't get switched on with it and the engine won't have the load from the AC and thus will have a longer life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to this claim or is this an urban myth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this used to be true with older cars, but not anymore with modern designs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: by AC I mean cooling exclusively, not heating. I live in a hot country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10309" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T05:08:39.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T05:42:55.797" Title="Switching off the AC before turning off the engine to increase longevity - urban myth?" Tags="|engine|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-29T12:11:29.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T04:55:42.177" Score="3" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a 2001 Ford Explorer that is over heating.  I don't know what is causing it.  I just replaced the radiator, water pump and the thermostat. It was fine for a few months then my girlfriend was driving it to McDonald's one night, which is only 1 mile from we're we live, and it started to overheat.  When she pulled over and opened the hood the reservoir cap blew off. She said the engine was hot but not where it was smoking or anything. She said it wasn't even bubbling out the radiator cap or anything.  When we got it home and it sat over night we tried driving it again and it did it again. We let it sit a few days and then tried it again, this time it didn't do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story but I'm on house arrest so can't really check it out but I don't really know much about cars, so if anyone could please give me some advice it would be great. Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10310" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T05:39:25.913" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:52:13.953" Title="Over heating problems please help" Tags="|ford|radiator|overheating|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2015-04-29T05:42:55.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that leaving the AC on while starting the vehicle would be harder on the starter motor rather than the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say Urban Myth....but, who am I to disagree with your friend...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T05:42:55.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16630" CreationDate="2015-04-29T06:31:36.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As DucatiKiller already said, probably too less coolant in your system. Check if the level is at &quot;full&quot; and definitely not anything underneath &quot;low&quot; on the indicator of the coolant reservoir. Depending on the area where you live, it's better to use coolant with anti-freeze in it. Take care not to overfill it though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have a leak in the radiator or the sub-systems of it. Check if there is any fluid on your driveway. Coolant looks a bit oily when there is anti-freeze in it and you can really tell if its oil or coolant by smelling it. Have you hit anything on the bottom of the front with your car lately? This might cause a leak in the radiator if you don't have an engine bay guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant has a higher boiling point than water.  Do not use water as it will potentially boil and create air pockets of steam in your cooling jackets within the engine.  Using coolant will ensure you are actually using liquid to cool the internals of your engine and prevent an overheating situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T09:54:06.463" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T09:54:06.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16583" CreationDate="2015-04-29T08:19:34.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought, having owned 3 Opels/Vauxhalls (including two Corsas), is the coil pack. When it starts to die, you get the symptoms you are describing. Your #2 cylinder's spark plug isn't firing properly, so under load conditions the spark may be too weak to ignite the air/fuel mix, causing a misfire. If I'm right, the problem should get progressively worse until it starts doing it even when not accelerating. In the end it either won't start, or won't keep running. Also, when it finally stops firing completely on one of more cylinders, there should be a horrible sound very similar to serious rod knock (don't worry, it's just the engine idling in a weird sequence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have your coil pack, plug leads and spark plugs tested. They're fairly cheap to replace. And replace all those things. When the coilpack goes, it takes a spark plug and/or plug lead with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T08:19:34.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16630" CreationDate="2015-04-29T11:31:10.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three things I can think of which haven't been mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check to ensure there isn't a plastic bag or some other debris which might have become lodged in front of the radiator. May seem obvious, but an obstruction like that can cause a huge reduction in cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a new radiator cap. If the old one is not allowing for enough pressure to build up, this can cause issues. The point you made about &quot;&lt;em&gt;opened the hood the reservoir cap blew off&lt;/em&gt;&quot; bothers me here. Unless someone is touching the cap, or it wasn't installed correctly in the first place, there is just about no way this is going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are (or were) air pockets left behind in the coolant system which needs to be bled out. In most vehicles, the easiest way to do this is to park the vehicle on an incline pointing up, remove the radiator cap (when the vehicle is cooled down enough to not cause issues), then run the vehicle up to temp so air pockets have a chance to escape. Top the fluids off to ensure you have a full fluid load.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T15:52:13.953" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:52:13.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15687" CreationDate="2015-04-29T14:07:58.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just had this dumb problems fix for good, for months even after i change the sensor at the mirror the problems of erractic temperture keeps coming back. today my mech took the bunch of socket out between door and the car body spray some contact cleaner and blow off any access with the pressure blower for abt 15 sec ......wah lah all back to normal , this require some additional hands as the door is quite heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10311" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T14:07:58.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T22:13:26.727" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha XJ600N, and at various points of time when riding around in the city at 50 to 60 kph I have had this strange feedback from the wheels or suspension that makes me feel either slightly imbalanced or dragged around the lane. It always happens when I am riding alone (ie. no pillion) on roads that don't have a perfectly flat surface - such as city roads that have an undulation in the middle of the lane. I have never felt it on well-laid highways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first noticed it a few days after buying the motorcycle, but it came with very old tyres, so I assumed that it has either got to do with that or that I was being too touchy as a newbie rider. I put on fresh new tyres and now, one year later, I am again experiencing this once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is something wrong with the motorcycle? Could this be somehow related to my suspension being too soft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10281" LastEditorUserId="10281" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T22:36:36.500" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T15:32:18.403" Title="Why would I feel disbalanced or thrown around when riding a motorcycle" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16643" CreationDate="2015-04-30T07:17:13.453" Score="6" ViewCount="9609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a &lt;code&gt;Honda Stunner CBF 125 CC&lt;/code&gt; daily for approx 30 kms, with an average speed of 45 km/hr. I noticed that my motorcycle has been consuming too much engine oil like it not used to few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what I do, I purchase engine oil and fill it up on my own. But before that I have to check engine oil is there or not. Sometimes I checks on time, sometimes late and sometimes early. Question is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I checked on time:&lt;/strong&gt; Why I cant feel anything, I mean how come motorcycle doesn't show symptoms of low engine oil. I never felt pickup, whitesmoke, smooth ride issues when engine oil was low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I checked early:&lt;/strong&gt; what are the risks filling it more often. Mechanic at workshop always says engine oil should be changed in 2 months or after a run of 2000kms, but I think I am changing it after 1000kms (because it goes empty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I checked late:&lt;/strong&gt; What are the risks of keep running a motorcycle without engine oil, and for how long I can run it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Details of motorcycle :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase date: May/2009&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Run: 52052&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run only in City with nice roads, less clutch break usage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter was changed once at 15,000 kms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular service at authorized service station after every 2000kms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4166" LastActivityDate="2017-07-29T05:37:33.597" Title="Risks of &quot;excess and lack&quot; of Engine oil" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T07:56:42.207" Score="4" ViewCount="4517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean that, if cylinder have a design in which piston can change its working area alternate. Is there any chance to affect the burning ratio in loss or profit to efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10318" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T10:23:29.647" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T13:10:35.967" Title="Does the size of engine cylinder affect the efficiency?" Tags="|engine-theory|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2015-04-30T08:12:23.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher piston surface area generally means higher volume. At higher cylinder volume you'll achieve more torque, which might be useful at acceleration. If you can later decrease the piston/cylinder diameter, you would be running more efficiently as less power is required for cruise speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T08:12:23.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16640" CreationDate="2015-04-30T08:34:13.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are checking on time, so the oil is low, but not too low, there should be no adverse effects on the engine - the 'min' mark on the dipstick marks the lowest you should ever let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong with topping it up too early - better early than late. Remember to only top it up to the 'max' line, don't put too much in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did let it run dry, the moving parts would no longer be lubricated, and would be rubbing directly against each other - causing much more wear and heat, and probably leading to the engine seizing up and failing catastrophically. Don't drive it at all with no oil!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth trying to find out where the oil is going - is it leaking from somewhere, or is it being burnt? Leaks should be fixed as soon as possible as oil leaking onto the road can be very dangerous, both for you and other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always advisable to check your fluid levels regularly, and even more so if you know it's burning oil - weekly, and before any long journey...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T08:34:13.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2015-04-30T09:13:55.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in the case of petrol engines the optimal cylinder size is around 500 to 550cc. You can test that theory by looking at the total engine capacity divided by the number of cylinders of any performance car, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Golf GTI - 2 liter 4 cylinder = 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMW M3 - 3 liter 6 cylinder - 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Audi S6 Quattro - 4 liter 8 cylinder - 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamborghini Gallardo - 5 liter 10 cylinder - 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aton martin V12 vanquish - 6 liter 12 cylinder - 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bugatti Veyron - 8 liter 16 cylinder - 500cc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cylinder are smaller than 500cc, you won't get as much torque, but they can work faster, so you can rev higher. If your cylinders are bigger than 500cc, you can't rev as high, but you have more torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want a very fast car that will be light, a smaller cc per cylinder is good, e.g. the new 1.6 turbo V6 F1 cars (265cc per cylinder). But if you want a car that is strong and heavy, a bigger cc per cylinder is required, e.g. the Dodge Viper 8 liter V10 (800cc per cylinder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in dynamic compression ratio's, go read up on variable valve timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the efficient burning of fuel, it isn't affected by cylinder size or surface area. The efficient burning of fuel is up to the Air/Fuel ratio, Ignition timing, valve timing and engine load. These things are all controlled by the electronic management system or (in older engines) the carburetor and mechanical valve timing. The optimal air/fuel ratio is always 14.7 (for petrol), doesn't matter if it's a 5cc toy car engine, or a 12000cc truck engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that can change the optimal value from 14.7 to something else are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The quality of the fuel or the octane rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the heat of the intake air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the compression ratio of the cylinder (anything from 8.0:1 in turbo engines to 12:1 in high-performance non-turbos).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the amount of load the engine is under.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that when the car is working harder, you need to inject more fuel than can be burned to help cool down the air/fuel mixture to prevent it from exploding too soon (called knocking). But that's not related to how big the cylinder is, just how much and how fast it is compressing the air/fuel mixture before igniting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T10:01:44.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T10:01:44.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T10:35:21.870" Score="2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Volvo 440 2.0i Manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed lately that when I start the car in the morning sometimes the engine runs normally but the moment I engage the gear to move, the car begins to jerk. When in Neutral it would not rev up at all no matter how I try to rev it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cold start was checked and changed, the fuel pump was checked, the nozzle, manifold, spark plugs were checked and cleaned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car works slightly better in the morning but it still jerks every time I slow down. Could it be an air pipe leakage somewhere, timing slip, or brain box problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help in diagnosing the problem is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:17:00.200" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:17:00.200" Title="Car Jerks Early Morning" Tags="|troubleshooting|volvo-440|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2015-04-30T13:10:35.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way (to my knowledge) to affect the displacement of an engine while it's running (dynamically). You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, however, change the two working parameters of an engine dynamically, those being the &lt;strong&gt;volumetric efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;compression ratio&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volumetric efficiency (VE) is explained as how well do the cylinders fill with air/fuel mixture during the intake process, expressed as a percentage. A normally aspirated engine, in commercially available passenger cars, will run in the 70-80% VE range. A NASCAR engine can run in the ~105-108% range. The volumetric efficiency will dictate the ultimate amount of power output, but has little to do with how well the engine can convert the air/fuel mixture into power. There are inherent efficiencies when we talk about improving VE, but this has more to do with the fact you can move air better through the engine (air in/exhaust out) which allows you to free up power through the process, but does not make the combustion process work any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VE can be changed mainly through the use of super/turbo-charging. By varying the pressure of the intake charge, you are directly affecting VE. Normal air pressure (1 bar) at sea level is said to be ~14psi (or 101.325 kPa). If, during the combustion cycle of an engine, the air pressure inside the cylinder equaled the air pressure outside of the engine, you'd have what is considered 100% VE. If you increase the intake charge to 14psi (14psi above ambient air pressure), you'd in effect double the amount of air going into the cylinder. Theoretically, you should be doubling the power output of the engine at that point. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; It doesn't quite work out this way, usually because there are engine inefficiencies which create parasitic losses ... for the purpose of this answer, I'll exclude that so as to allow for easier explanation.) By changing the intake charge pressure, you have effectively changed the amount of air/fuel which can be introduced into an engine, and therefor increased the amount of potential power output by doing so. You could look at this as &lt;em&gt;effectively&lt;/em&gt; changing the size of the cylinder by making the engine &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; it is bigger than it actually is. Does this affect engine efficiency? To a small extent. You do gain efficiencies by utilizing a turbocharger (which utilizes some of the exhaust heat which would otherwise be lost). You also gain some efficiency by having to move less internal engine mass (smaller/fewer pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, etc.) than you would by doubling the displacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of a cylinder has less of an effect on the efficiency of an engine than does the compression ratio. This is what I believe you are actually asking about: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;If you had a variable compression ratio, would it effect the efficiency of the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has to do with your statement of &quot;&lt;em&gt;changing the piston work area&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. As I previously stated, there is no efficient way to change the physical displacement (actually changing the size) of an engine &lt;em&gt;while it's running&lt;/em&gt;. There are, however, several ways to change the compression ratio while it's running. The compression ratio &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; have an effect on power output. As a rule of thumb, every point of static compression ratio is worth about 3% in power output with everything else staying the same. There is a point of diminished returns though, where the compression ratio becomes too high and detonation (or pre-ignition) is uncontrollable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above statement is born out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/file/index/docid/925439/filename/49.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper written for the Academy of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineers (AMAE)&lt;/a&gt;. It states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Compression ratio is the key parameter in reciprocating engine. The concept of variable compression ratio promises improved engine performance, efficiency and reduced emissions. The higher cylinder pressures and temperatures during the early part of combustion and small residual gas fraction owing to higher compression ratio give faster laminar flame speed. Therefore the ignition delay period is shorter. As a result at low loads the greater the compression ratio, the shorter is the combustion time. Time loss is subsequently reduced. Therefore it seems reasonable that fuel consumption rate is lower with high compression ratio at part load. The main feature of the VCR engine is to operate at different compression ratios, depending on the vehicle performance needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end, there is an engine designed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_compression_ratio#Peugeot_MCE-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peugeot, named the MCE-5&lt;/a&gt;. Wikipedia described it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Peugeot design works by varying the effective length of the con-rods connecting the piston to the crank. When the con-rod is shorter, the compression ratio is lower and vice versa. On the left hand-side of the diagram is the conventional piston of an internal combustion engine. On the right is an hydraulic cylinder with double-acting piston. This acts through a rod-crank system with a gear wheel, whose movement adjusts the effective con-rod length and thus the compression ratio in the left cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, this design seems like a nightmare. Here is a simple stick drawing of what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfnvT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from Wikipedia article.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, complicated. I read an online presentation (use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=diesel+variable+compression+ratio+engine&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#safe=active&amp;amp;q=mae.ncsu.edu+variable+compression+ratio+&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Google search&lt;/a&gt; ... should be the top entry which is a PPT presentation) which described some of the operational parameters as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;CR’s adjustable from 7:1 to 20:1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fast response (&amp;lt;100 ms to move from max CR to min CR) .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Electronically controlled sensors allow the engine to quickly tailor itself to the ideal operating conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Control jacks function as hydraulic ratchets, moving piston TDC location (changing the compression volume and therefore the CR).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for presenting this is to show that there are viable engines which have been designed which would allow for a variable compression ratio (it's not just a pipe dream). I believe, however, that Peugeot scrapped it due to costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the great benefits of the MCE-5 engine is probably durability. There are far less stresses imposed upon the piston and rings than in a typical fixed CR engine. As shown in these images pulled from the same presentation, there is no side loading, which greatly decreases stress as well as frees up some power which would be considered parasitic loss:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BXgPe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MCE engine dynamics&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the piston moves straight up and down in the cylinder bore. It would also mean that the cylinder would never become out of round (oval) due to the side loading, either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P77Fg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LHFQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two charts show the actual differences between the two engine types and the amount of stress which occurs due to the side loading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I present this really to show that there are other efficiencies with the design of this particular VCR engine. While you may not be &lt;em&gt;creating&lt;/em&gt; new horsepower due to the mechanical design, you are &lt;em&gt;freeing up&lt;/em&gt; horsepower in the process, which equates to the improved efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T13:10:35.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T14:28:17.163" Score="6" ViewCount="8825" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2005 Ford Escape XLS that has the airbag light on the dashboard illuminated with error &lt;strong&gt;code 16&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some searching I found how to get the error code by counting the sequence of flashes before the light remains sold. The sequence is one flash, pause, 6 flashes for an error code of &lt;code&gt;16&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only information I can find about this error is that it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;passenger occupant classification system fault&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshooting steps completed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed and reinserted connectors under passenger seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned all connectors under passenger seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected the vehicle battery for a period of 5 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned seat-belt release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Observations:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I sit in the passenger seat and start the vehicle, the trouble light doesn't illuminate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I buckle the passenger seat belt, with no passenger, the passenger airbag disabled indicator light on the center console will occasionally flash. Occasionally it will remain solid for the entire trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Based on the above troubleshooting steps and error code, what is the ultimate resolution to this problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do additional steps need to be performed?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I was thinking of replacing the entire seat but want to rule out the main module or other components I may not have thought of.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6592" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T18:13:02.673" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T16:28:12.050" Title="2005 Ford Escape Airbag code 16 - corrective actions?" Tags="|ford|supplemental-restraint-system|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16651" CreationDate="2015-04-30T15:17:49.283" Score="1" ViewCount="17251" Body="&lt;p&gt;My manual for my 2001 Ford F-150 (4.6L v8) says that the transmission fluid is &quot;Mercon V&quot;. For power steering fluid it lists &quot;Mercon&quot;. I can't even find something on the shelf listed as &quot;Mercon&quot;. I've got several quarts of &quot;Mercon V&quot; leftover from a transmission fluid change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put Mercon V in the power steering system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T17:54:14.853" Title="Can I use Mercon V as power steering fluid?" Tags="|power-steering|lubrication|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16650" CreationDate="2015-04-30T16:34:29.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mercon V is backwards compatible and can be used in place of Mercon. There is an alternative which is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/automatic-transmission-products/automatic-transmission-fluid/33&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Valvoline Dex/Merc&lt;/a&gt; which can be used in place of either of the original Dexron III or Mercon products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T16:34:29.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:26:52.673" Score="7" ViewCount="32112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport, manual transmission (the 6 cylinder model, I believe 4.0L). It has 4 wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've lent the car to some friends recently who were 'rusty' with their manual transmission skills. Recently when I received the car back, I noticed that it is now difficult to put the car into gear while the engine is running, and the car is still. From what I've read this could be due to a clutch problem (namely, a broken pressure plate) or a clutch hydraulics problem (leaking/missing fluid). I checked the hydraulic system reservoir and its full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch 'feels' like it normally does, but here are the symptoms;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can easily put the car into any gear when the car is off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is moving, its easy to change gears (though I haven't tried a rolling start/first gear test yet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is on and not moving, If I depress the clutch and try to put it into ANY forward gear, it will not go into gear (although if I push it hard it will go in). That said, &lt;strong&gt;if I depress the clutch, and subsequently wait ~5 seconds, then I can easily put it into any gear&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is not moving, and I depress the clutch and rev the engine like crazy, the car does not pull (in other words, it does appear that the clutch fully disengages from the engine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my hydraulic fluid levels are fine are these the symptoms of a bad clutch (e.g. broken pressure plate)? I would have guessed it was a syncro's problem given what I said in #3, but the symptom exist with all 5 gears. If the pressure plate is broken, why would it matter if the clutch is spinning or not (i.e. how does that affect whether I can put the car into gear or not when the clutch is fully depressed)? I would think if the pressure plate was broken it would just not go into gear even if the car was off, but maybe thats just my misunderstand of how clutches/manual transmission works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:25:18.980" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T03:33:27.783" Title="Manual transmission difficult to put into gear. Do I need a new clutch?" Tags="|clutch|jeep|manual-transmission|4wd|cherokee|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:36:29.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should start by doing the things you said you haven't done. Tune up and general repair are needed. I would change the oil, adjust valve lash, clean carb (maybe check jet size rich/lean running), spark plug, check coil gap on flywheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of reasons so start checking one by one off the list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10326" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T18:08:00.860" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T18:08:00.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16606" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:46:13.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst the math in the question might make sense, with the front-wheel-drive cars, it would go in violation of the established practice of having the better-handling tyres on the rear axle in order to combat oversteer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Tech Information - Where to Install New Pairs of Tires?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, if rotation is delayed to 20k miles of a 60k mile tyre, and especially if it's expected to last only 40k in total given the driving patterns etc, you effectively end up putting the new tyres to the front, and switching the half-worn tyres from the front to the rear, compromising the driving experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can thus be argued that in the interest of safety with front-wheel cars, it is NOT a good idea to start rotating the tyres from front to back past half of their useful life-span (rotating non-unidirectional tyres from left-to-right once would still be a good idea and at least a tiny bit useful), which would then surely void the warranty as it'll be impossible for the tyres to achieve even wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, unless you want to continue with such practice, you'd have to throw the whole set out, since buying just a single pair would place it in the rear, going quite close to repeating the cycle (although I guess the new pair will only worn out ~1/4th when the rear pair from the first set worms out 100% on the front, since it'll be starting at ~1/2 when the original front pair will be gone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T17:46:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:01:27.203" Score="5" ViewCount="37485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My catalytic converters have been clogged for awhile, and the o2 sensors need changed because of this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it doing to my engine?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And gas mileage for that matter?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i take out my converters and just put straight pipe with ports for the o2 sensors will that be ok? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10327" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T18:10:08.500" LastActivityDate="2023-11-18T19:11:15.993" Title="How long will my motor last having clogged catalytic converters?" Tags="|exhaust|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16653" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:15:48.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to bleed the clutch hydraulics? (I don't remember if the Jeep has that option off the top of my head.) If so, this is where I'd look first. If not, I believe you need to replace them. It seems as though the clutch is &lt;em&gt;not quite letting go&lt;/em&gt; when you depress the pedal. The five seconds gives it enough time to spin down. The fact that you can drive the Jeep without issue tells me the clutch itself is in at least &lt;em&gt;serviceable&lt;/em&gt; condition. Signs of clutch failure usually display themselves with the clutch slipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; rule out the synchros, but I'd leave that for last. The reason I say this is because the 5-speed they put behind the 4.0l inline six in the Cherokee Sport should be the heavy duty one (as opposed to the weak one which they put behind the 4-cyl). I bought the 2 door version of the vehicle you are talking about for my son. The transmissions in them are pretty sturdy (but not indestructible as the engine seems to be ;-). If you can drive it down the road without issue, the clutch and transmission should be okay. The only thing to really look at after that are the hydraulics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T18:15:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16656" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:28:45.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the catalytic convertor is truly plugged, you wouldn't be able to drive the vehicle, so this makes me wonder about the veracity of your statement. With a plugged cat, the back pressure created behind it will only let you rev the engine to around 1500-2000 rpm. I had to replace a set of heads on a pick-up truck for a guy because he continued to run the vehicle after the cat went bad. He drove it by keeping the gas pedal floored all the time. This cracked the head at the combustion chamber, which allowed coolant to leak into the cylinder. I gave the original diagnosis as a blown head gasket. This was before I tore it apart, found the cracked head, then discovered the cat was plugged, which was the original problem. This is a definite probability for any vehicle which gets run in the same manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas mileage will definitely be affected because you have to run the engine harder to overcome the back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take the convertors out and put in straight pipe. If this is an OBD-II system (which I assume it is because from your description it has &amp;quot;cat&lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; and O2 sensor&lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;), you will never get the light off your dash without reprogramming your computer or installing O2 sims. In any state (or country) with emissions testing, this will fail. Better to just get new cats put in. If you don't have emissions testing and don't mind the dash light, there wouldn't be an issue with running it that way. You would, however, never know if there was another issue which popped up with the vehicle. This is a &amp;quot;do at your own risk&amp;quot; type of deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-11-18T19:11:15.993" LastActivityDate="2023-11-18T19:11:15.993" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:28:46.383" Score="1" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was running fine (no lights/warnings).  The next day I tried to start it and it was completely dead not even a click sound like normal battery is going bad kind of thing.  After I got it jumped and waited a few minutes it started up.  Then it stayed idling for a few minutes so I drove 15-20 min to charge up the battery and had no problems.  The lights were bright and no warning lights came on or flickered.  After I turned it off I waited a couple minutes and it would not start up again.  Just wanted to know if this is the starter/alternator/or battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10329" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T02:03:32.227" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T02:03:32.227" Title="Battery/alternator on 99 Chevy Prizm?" Tags="|electrical|battery|chevrolet|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:55:51.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the most likely culprit which is the battery. The other components you mentioned could be an issue, but it's less likely given what you've told me. There are several things you should do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the age of your battery. There should be little stickers on the top or side, usually round with numbers in them. One set of numbers will be the year and one will be the month in that year. Sometimes the month is defined by letter. Sometimes the year is only 1 digit. You may want to google your battery+how+to+tell+age to figure it out if it's not obvious. If your battery is more than 3 - 5 years old, it's likely just shot. If you aren't sure it is old/shot or just want to verify, you can follow these additional steps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the voltage of the battery with a volt meter. A charged battery should be at least 12.5 volts DC. If it's less, charge it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Significant corrosion can interfere with the ability to make a good connection from the battery to the starter. If you see a lot of white fuzzy deposit on the terminals, it's corroded. This can also be a sign that your battery is leaking fumes. It could just be old and needs to be replaced, but if it is causing corrosion but otherwise seems to hold a charge just fine, you could try getting an anti corrosion paste and felt washers. This will help prevent the fumes from leaving the battery and affecting your terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the battery voltage is low, put it on a slow charger and leave it for 3 - 4 hours. It takes more than 15-20 minutes to fully charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the volts are low and you are charging your battery, it may also be a good idea to pop the vent cap (little caps on top of the battery which can be removed with a flat-head screwdriver - or sometimes are screw on/off caps) and check to see if some of the cells are low on fluid. All cells should be equal level. If some are low, you probably have a leak and it's likely that cell is already dead due to the plates being exposed to air for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T21:49:10.643" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T21:49:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T19:08:39.883" Score="2" ViewCount="32379" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD Calculated Load is defined as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOAD_PCT = [current airflow] / [(peak airflow at WOT@STP as a function of rpm) * (BARO/29.92) * SQRT(298/(AAT+273))]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I am in neutral and I open the throttle, calculated load does not change at all according to my OBD scan. It only changes when I am actually moving. I don't see how, according to the definition, that should matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10324" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T00:59:14.657" Title="What exactly is OBD Calculated Load?" Tags="|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:05:41.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The TPS (throttle position sensor) or a bad ground to that sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It could also be your engine temperature sensor which I believe is located near the thermostat on that vehicle. With colder engine temps, the computer will increase fuel. If your sensor is giving off erratic readings that could cause it to jump in RPMs like that&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best thing would be to hook it up to a scanner and check things like the TPS position, pull codes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:05:41.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:28:59.790" Score="2" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Ford Expedition with a seemingly random Hot/Cold air swapping issue. In the winter, when I turned on the heat, it would randomly alternate between blowing freezing cold air from outside, and blowing burning hot air from the engine. Now that summer is here, a similar problem seems to persist with the A/C. Sometimes, it will blow nice cold air from the A/C, and sometimes it will blow burning hot air that's much hotter than the outside temperature even on hot days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to recognize any pattern to the switching. The problem was just in the front vents, with the rear vents always working fine, until just a couple days ago, when the rear vents also started doing the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that since I still sometimes get freezing cold air, that I'm good on Freon. Also, since I get burning hot air, and never just warm air, I'm assuming that the A/C isn't just intermittently failing. My best guess is that the car is blowing hot air straight from the engine, but I'm not sure what's responsible for that. Does anyone have any experience with this particular issue, or even just the heating/cooling system in general?&#xA;Any tips at all would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:10:48.383" Title="1997 Ford Expedition Intermittent Hot/Cold Air" Tags="|ford|ac|heater|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:41:09.600" Score="1" ViewCount="4256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased my Honda Shine in 2011. The rear shock absorbers on the bike are not working properly from, thus I want to change it with the leading brads in shock absorber like Gabriel,Escort Etc. Out of these, which one should be preferable and can you suggest any other product for a Honda Shine rear suspension? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10330" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:31:52.767" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T20:29:49.990" Title="Is it possible to replace Honda Shine rear shock absorber by Gabriel or Escort?" Tags="|honda|shock-absorber|shine-mc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16661" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:45:38.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a source for that formula?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you are reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#Mode_01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Calculated engine load value&lt;/a&gt;, which would indeed be zero when you are in neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2l3bW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Calculated Engine Load Value&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Range: 0 to 100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Units: %&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Formula: A*100/255&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/support/Knowledgebase/Article/View/43/6/reading-performance-information-data-pid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which defines it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calculated Load Value&lt;/strong&gt; -- Indicates a percentage of peak available torque. Reaches 100% at wide open throttle at any altitude or RPM for both naturally aspirated and boosted engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which case, I would still expect it to return non-zero values when in neutral, as it's not transmission load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're getting the formula from &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Knio/carhack/blob/master/old/can/pids.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Knio/carhack/blob/master/old/can/pids.py&lt;/a&gt;, and if that formula is indeed correct and implemented correctly by the car's computer and manufacturer, then it &quot;Reaches 100% at WOT at any altitude, temperature or rpm for both naturally aspirated and boosted engines&quot;, and should indeed be independent of vehicle speed or gear engagement (or lack thereof).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T22:24:23.790" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:24:23.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:58:38.743" Score="1" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Chrysler Lebaron. 3.0L, V6, Automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has recently developed an issue where as you accelerate, it seems to get &quot;stuck&quot; in third(maybe?) gear. It will drive with that gear stuck for a few seconds, and then shift up. However, if you leave it stuck in that gear and try to slow down, the car will stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that some people  have had this issue where their Lebaron goes into &quot;Limp&quot; mode, and stays that way. It seems like this may be what happens, but it only stays that way for a few seconds, if I'm accelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possibly related problem that it developed at the same time is with the Tachometer; sometimes it will intermittently not reflect the true RPMs of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the Transmission control solenoid; as well as the output speed sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are as follows:&#xA;- What could be causing this issue with the shifting?&#xA;- I suspect the computer being reset might help with recalibration (if that is causing the issue), but attempts to have the computer reset successfully have failed. Is there a way to reset the computer manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10331" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:47:44.457" Title="'95 Chrysler Lebaron Shifting" Tags="|automatic-transmission|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2015-04-30T21:53:27.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word: &lt;strong&gt;Battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check all of the things which maplemale suggests and that's not a bad idea. From your description, though, it points right to the battery being the issue. From your description of how the &quot;lights were bright and no warning lights&quot;, this points directly to the battery to me. Pull the thing and take it down to AutoZone, Advance Auto, or the like, and get it load tested for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T21:53:27.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16653" CreationDate="2015-05-01T02:26:24.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one other thing that can cause what you are describing. There is either a pilot bearing or a pilot bushing that supports the input shaft of the transmission.  I don't know which, but if it is a bushing, it would make sense based on your description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the borrowers slipped the clutch quite a bit and were in a position to use the clutch a lot, like in traffic or pulling a trailer, they could have overheated the clutch, which could have allowed the grease to melt and, left it a bit dry or cooked the grease enough to thicken it enough to cause the bushing to hold onto the input shaft, keeping it from stopping as quickly as it did before it was borrowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has a pilot bearing, a similar situation could have occurred.  Overheating causing the grease to bind the bearing enough to keep it spinning longer than it did before. If either of these are the case, the transmission would need to be removed to replace the bearing/bushing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing. Having to wait long enough for the inertia of the spinning clutch to subside is quite normal. 3 to 5 seconds is not an unusual time to wait. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T02:26:24.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T09:52:57.583" Score="3" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the course of trying to diagnose a hot weather rough idle / stalling problem ( which doesn't occur in winter weather ) on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.mazda-club.eu/sub-model/mazda-323-familia-protege-iv-ba-bh-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;97 Mazda 323&lt;/a&gt; I performed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/cylinder-balance-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cylinder power balance test&lt;/a&gt; eye balling the tachometer for the readings.  It looked like each cylinder went down about 200 with the exception of one cylinder which went down about 100.  I then performed a daytime spark test on each wire using a brand new plug and the suspect cylinder seemed to have a weaker spark, so I replaced the wire set.  That seemed to solve the idle problem, and the wobble which I would feel when revving the engine in neutral went away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after a few days the problem came back, and I adjusted the idle air screw on the throttle body to increase the idle air flow, which significantly improved the problem, although didn't totally solve it.  The problem is that it seems to be running way too rich now, as there is a strong odor of unburnt fuel, and my city fuel consumption went &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/mazda/323/1997/sailorbob/327100/log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from about 8.4 K/L to 6.2 K/L&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both the idle / stalling problem and the wobble had come back ( the wobble seems to be only when the engine is cold now ), I decided to perform another balance test, this time with a scan tool to report the rpms.  Except this time disconnecting plug wires had little to no noticeable effect - only a drop of about 30 - 50 rpm per cylinder.  I turned down the idle air screw a full turn and pulling any plug at that point stalled the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugs were changed six months ago, and I can clearly hear each injector clicking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run into an idle / stalling problem like this where forcibly enriching the AF mixture effectively masks the underlying problem?  At this point the only two things that stand out are an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/15855/7132&quot;&gt;extremely dirty intake manifold&lt;/a&gt; with a think coat of oily sludge on every surface, and when cleaning the EGR I noticed that one of the two vacuum ports on the EGR valve has been capped with a rubber cap and clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQgVY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a recurrence of the same problem I was having in this other question:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15715/falling-rpms-and-stalls-after-releasing-the-clutch&quot;&gt;Falling RPM's and Stalls after Releasing the Clutch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the problem had been solved, but then it came back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've confirmed that the EGR seems to be correctly set up for this model and I followed the autozone procedure for setting the idle suggested by Paulster2, and I'm back up to 8 K/L, but that's still 10% below my winter millage. And it still idles poorly right after start up, until I give it some gas and then it goes back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't gotten to retry the balance test yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:57:08.117" Title="Performing a Cylinder Power Balance Test" Tags="|mazda|rough-idle|lantis-323|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16649" CreationDate="2015-05-01T10:13:35.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had looked at this and didn't realize it was an Escape. A friend of mine has one with the exact same problem. I would put money on it not being the sensor, but the connector you've cleaned. Not that cleaning it would have caused any further issues. &lt;strong&gt;This is a common problem with the Escapes.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to fix the issue is to remove the connector all together and solder the wires together. To do this, cut the connector out, realizing the alignment of the wires (I believe they are different color combos on each side of the connector). Solder the ends together, then use heat shrink to seal the solder joints up. The only issue with doing this is it is permanent. Unless you cut the wires or unsolder them, removing the seat in the future will be problematic. You shouldn't have a problem with this airbag sensor again, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T10:13:35.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T15:16:06.727" Score="4" ViewCount="7035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Volkswagen Golf MK4 TDI 85kw (AJM). After driving for a while  and stopping, when I turn the ignition on I get an &amp;quot;Oil sensor workshop&amp;quot;  message. After connecting VCDS I got this fault:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;00534 -  Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (G8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27-00 -  Implausible Signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know its the same sensor for the oil level too.  I've done some research and I found that these sensors can be disabled.  On some forums, I found that you need to re-code the instrument cluster module and set it to 17402 or 17432 but neither of these works for me.  The first one is just an invalid option and the second one was coded with no success.  I'm wondering if there are any other ways of doing that? Or perhaps I did something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it would be nice to hear what are the possible causes of getting this exact fault as it appears only when the car is driven for a while and the engine is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: I used VCDS-lite registered version for connecting to my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to disconnect the connector from the sensor. I actually expected it to show me &amp;quot;Oil sensor workshop&amp;quot; message all the time but at the beginning it looked like everything is fine no message on the dash. And after driving for a while the fault appeared as with the connector plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Detailed information needed about theese questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way of programming out this sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way of fooling a computer about this sensor using resistors or something like that and how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As there are 3 wires coming to that sensor, how does it work? what's the purpose of each wire, and if data used by the computer is the resistance of of specific sensor's connections whats the normal resistance between each of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this sensor used to only warn a driver about the issues with the oil level or temperature or is it that this data also used by the main computer and does it affects how the engine runs? What exactly is affected by it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T12:33:55.630" Title="Volkswagen Golf MK4 - Oil temperature sensor coding out" Tags="|oil|golf|sensor|dtc|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T17:21:08.450" Score="4" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got home from work and put my car into park and heard a grinding sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parking brake stopped working. I tried putting it into drive and got the same grinding sound.  It was as if something was scraping against the asphalt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10339" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T05:50:27.743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T21:22:20.470" Title="2002 Subaru Legacy, Grinding Sound" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|drivetrain|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16664" CreationDate="2015-05-01T17:28:51.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the original Honda Shine suspension with a Gabriel.  There are no significant differences in comfort.  Gabriel price is 1100, Honda price 1800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T19:40:53.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T19:40:53.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16678" CreationDate="2015-05-01T19:12:05.760" Score="3" ViewCount="16643" Body="&lt;p&gt;After changing sensors that were bad on a Toyota 4Runner an emmissions technician stated that the vehicle needed to be driven &quot;for awhile&quot; before the &quot;drive cycle&quot; would reset the ECU to the new sensors and properly measure out fuel and what not for the motor to consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the length of time required for the 'drive cycle reset' to occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:51:42.587" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:51:42.587" Title="2001 Toyota 4Runner - ECU Drive Cycle Reset" Tags="|toyota|electronic-control-module|4runner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15074" CreationDate="2015-05-01T19:35:24.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may or may not apply to the Bentley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, stock ECU's are not programmable from an options standpoint.  Writing to the ECU is not allowed, they are read only.  Aftermarket ECU's take output from sensors and frequently stand in serial to the stock ECU so the aftermarket can modify information and act as a proxy to the sensor, essentially emulating the sensor and sending the ECU information that will thereby increase fuel from an injector and what not to increase HP, as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, there is a safety issue allowing consumers and/or mechanics to modify the ECU as it may control factors that are related to a safe driving experience.  The associated liability for a manufacturer is simply to high for a manufacturer to be motivated to risk allowing these modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of no stock ECU that allows a write, even for a configuration file (which isn't to say that this doesn't exist).  Modifying a field or 'feature' for an ECU is also something I have not heard of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not see the feature you are wanting to disable regarding the monitoring of the sunroof motor having an impact on the operation of motorized mechanical inputs from the ECU coming into play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken ECU's for BMW and Mercedes and put them into vehicles that don't have the ancillary features of the previous vehicle.  Such as a sunroof,etc.  I have had no issues with this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I have no knowledge about the Bentley configuration specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T19:35:24.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16676" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:09:30.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit complicated, but I found the information for you on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotapart.com/READINESS_MONITOR_DRIVE_PATTERNS_T-EG02-003.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt;. I am pulling the graphs out of it so you can see what you need to do. Rather than retype everything, I'm cutting/pasting some of the precursor directions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are some prerequisites you should know. First, you need a scan tool to tell you when any of the drive cycles are complete and the On–Board Diagnostic (OBDII) system is designed to monitor the performance of emission–related components and report any detected abnormalities in the form of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Since the various components need to be monitored during different driving conditions, the OBDII system is designed to run separate monitoring programs called Readiness Monitors. Many state Inspection and Maintenance (I/M) programs require that vehicles complete their Readiness Monitors prior to beginning an emissions test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The current status of the Readiness Monitors can be seen by using the Toyota Diagnostic Tester with version 9.0 software (or newer), or a generic OBDII Scantool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To view the Readiness Monitor status using the Toyota Diagnostic Tester, select “Monitor Status” from the Enhanced OBDII Menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A status of “complete” indicates that the necessary conditions have been met to run the performance tests for the related Readiness Monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Readiness Monitor will be reset to “incomplete” if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;List item ECU has lost power (battery or fuse). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;DTCs have been cleared. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The conditions for running the Readiness Monitor have not been met.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the event that any Readiness Monitor shows “incomplete,” follow the appropriate Readiness Monitor Drive Pattern to change the readiness status to “complete.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some further warnings of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;These drive patterns represent the fastest method to satisfy all necessary&#xA;  conditions which allow the specific Readiness Monitor to complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In the event that the drive pattern must be interrupted (possibly due to traffic conditions or other factors) the drive pattern can be resumed and, in most cases, the Readiness Monitor will still set to “complete.”&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To ensure rapid completion of Readiness Monitors, avoid sudden changes in&#xA;  vehicle load and speed (driving up and down hills and/or sudden acceleration).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please don't let this intimidate you. There seems like a lot of prerequisites and such, but really, most, if not all, are pretty straight forward. If you look for patterns in what it's asking you to do, you can probably come up with a plan to have all of them complete in one trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This first grid shows which Drive Cycles to actually follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YkFhR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows you need to worry about Drive Cycles 4, 6, 10, &amp;amp; 11. (Note: Mind you, some of these may have already been validated in the amount of time you've had your vehicle back from the mechanic. Pay attention to the Drive Cycles which are left. If it's already validated, don't worry about doing the Drive Cycle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the graph for Drive Cycle 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTpB7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the graph for Drive Cycle 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHZlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8hWP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the graph for Drive Cycle 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJ3ep.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the graph for Drive Cycle 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3gFE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T08:38:04.373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T08:38:04.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16701" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:44:30.493" Score="1" ViewCount="2719" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have the Automatic Temperature Controls or EATC. My blend door motor was dying when I bought the vehicle. You could hear it making a thump-thump like a gear missing and it wouldn't go into full cold. I ran with the actuator out for a while and just moved the blend door manually with my finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing the new Blend Door Actuator:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I got the Doorman (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00HRI24CK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRI24CK&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told (not sure if this is true now), they are configured for Cold out of the box. I turned on the EATC without the actuator plugged in. Switched my EATC to 60 degrees (100% cold). Turned it off. Plugged in the new Blend Door Actuator. Held it in my hand (did not actually install it in the airbox yet) and could turn it from cold to hot by changing temps and watched the drive shaft go from full clockwise to counter-clockwise and back again. Switched the actuator back to cold (clockwise). Stuck my finger in the airbox hole and turned the blend door to cold (clockwise) so they would match. Installed the actuator in the airbox, switched EATC from cold to hot and watched it turn. Then, tried going back to cold. Nothing. Did a diagnostic test and the EATC showed up with 6622 - blend door failure. Actuator would no longer function in the airbox or out of the airbox. But, if I clear the codes, it then functions again. I tried re-calibrating to start out hot, with no success. I tried starting at 75 degrees because that seems to be what the EATC always resets itself to after a diagnostics code clear operation. No success. I tried a good 10-15 times. Each time, I can get the Actuator to work in my hand. As soon as I attempt in the airbox, it hits an either full hot or cold position and won't do anything after that even after taking it out of the airbox. I have to clear codes to get it working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This is obviously not as simple as it seems. What is the actual correct procedure? Does it sound like I have a bad EATC or something else is going wrong here? Maybe I got a bad actuator? Maybe short in the wiring? Feels like I'm just attempting this the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T22:45:33.533" Title="Blend Door Motor/Actuator install 2002 Excursion/Super Duty/F350" Tags="|ford|climate-control|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16291" CreationDate="2015-05-01T22:22:11.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is resolved. I ended up taking it to the dealership, where apparently the fix was to &quot;redo all of the fuses in the engine compartment&quot;. I doubt the problem was that I had a fuse in the wrong spot, seeing as I didn't touch the fuses when I changed the battery, and I know for a fact the blower worked the day before changing the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it will pretty much remain a mystery, but assuming the dealership was telling the truth, it was as simple as a bad fuse - despite them all testing fine with a fuse checker and not appearing burnt or broken. Looking back, I wish I would have taken out every single fuse and tested each for continuity and low resistance with my multimeter. I also really wish VW and other German car makers would include fuse diagrams in the owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that it wasn't a fuse at all - perhaps the tech unknowingly corrected the problem with a computer reset. There are a lot of variables in diagnosing electrical problems as I've come to understand - maybe &lt;em&gt;the tech&lt;/em&gt; mispositioned a fuse before he started doing things with the diagnostic port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the repair was &quot;only&quot; the $100 diagnostic fee my local VW dealership charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10050" LastEditorUserId="10050" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:28:46.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:28:46.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T00:46:54.207" Score="4" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Hyundai Accent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it for around 800kms yesterday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All was fine until I was close to my house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard a noise coming from the rear wheel as if the wheel was stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while, when I tried to stop the car and engage the parking brake, I found it was too loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried applying it again after awhile and found that the brake was too tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue as to what to do or what could be wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10342" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T05:59:51.837" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T05:59:51.837" Title="While driving, my handbrake gets automatically engaged (maybe)" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|handbrake|accent|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23682" CreationDate="2015-05-02T15:10:23.870" Score="4" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an old Renault 4-cylinder carburetor engine in a boat.  I don't know much about engines so let me know if I'm not including important information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boat is old but new to me.  I drove it for about 4 hours, but now it won't start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press the ignition switch, it turns (&quot;reverevrev&quot; sound)., but the engine never starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is gas and yes I'm pumping it into the carb and yes I've verified that it's getting into the carb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It started failing to to start immediately after being run for 4hrs and then turned off.  I checked the battery and it's about 12.6V (but gradually falling as I keep trying to start the damn thing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm persistent and keep pressing the ignition, the engine stops turning when I press the ignition, and I just hear the starter motor going &quot;whiiiir&quot;.  If I leave it for a while and then try again, it turns again, so I assume something has to cool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the ignition's turned on (but starter is not being pressed), the coil (leading to the spark plugs) gets hot.  I'm measuring ~11.2V on the coil when the ignition's on, and 12.2V on the battery.  There's also about 0.6V across the wire connecting the coil's negative terminal to ground, which I guess means there's a lot of current flowing across that wire, which would explain the heat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took out the spark plugs, they were really black, so I cleaned the contacts with sandpaper and put them back in.  (One of them seemed to not be insulated perfectly - 20MOhm resistance over the gap - but I'm guessing this is not the source of my troubles).  Anyhow, this didn't seem to affect anything, and it still fails just as much as before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suspect that there's something off with the coil, but I don't know what to normally expect here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated, by me and all people who buy crappy boats in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:23:28.097" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:23:28.097" Title="Engine Turns but won't start" Tags="|electrical|starting|renault|ignition-coil|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T22:14:19.853" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Temperature gauge goes to zero when the engine is started. Very warm air comes from vents. AC nor heater are on. Outside temperature is 80. Is it safe to drive three miles to dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10348" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T16:08:05.370" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T16:08:05.370" Title="Temerature gauge goes to zero" Tags="|troubleshooting|gauges|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T22:48:31.920" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old cavalier that loses power to the ECU randomly. It can take many attempts to start again. I do not lose battery power to the lights or stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I flick the keys to the on position repeatedly until the check engine light flashes, I can usually get it to start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what leads me to believe I am having power loss to the ECU. What confuses me is that it is so intermittent and has no apparent trigger. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10350" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:29:08.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:29:08.397" Title="'93 Cavalier ECU issue" Tags="|chevrolet|electronic-control-module|cavalier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2015-05-03T00:36:24.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your radiator overflow to ensure the coolant is where it should be (between the high and low marks). As long as it's good there, you should be just fine to drive it to the dealer. Ensure you start from a cold car and drive immediately. I would bet there is not going to be an issue anyway, but by driving there directly with as little stop/go as possible, you're vehicle probably won't even be fully warm by the time you get there. This is the &lt;em&gt;just in case&lt;/em&gt; scenario so as not to cause your vehicle any problems. Keep an eye and a nose out for different smells. I don't think it will be an issue though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T00:36:24.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1940" CreationDate="2015-05-03T02:18:36.450" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, cut the nail as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then place a long metal rod on top of the partially sawed screw, and bang it hard with a hammer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T18:23:36.630" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:23:36.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T00:19:05.093" Score="-1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whats the best way to maintain a 12v SLA battery in an automobile? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a direct 12v connection to the vehicles battery system be sufficient, or is there a circuit that should be placed in between for maximum health retention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10368" OwnerDisplayName="Dobler" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T15:18:40.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T19:26:41.060" Title="Charging an SLA battery for storage in an automobile" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16691" CreationDate="2015-05-01T03:13:57.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, SLA is not the optimal kind of battery for starting an internal combustion engine.  SLA are optimized for deep discharge, but their output current has been sacrificed.  You need a &lt;em&gt;starter battery&lt;/em&gt; (like the first one that's already in the vehicle).  Starter batteries are designed for high current output (the cold cranking amps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual battery systems are fairly common on: boats, RVs/caravans, emergency vehicles &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.  There is usually a &lt;em&gt;battery isolator&lt;/em&gt;, which prevents the secondary battery from draining the starter battery and vise-versa.  There are 2 classes of battery isolators:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diode-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relays-based (solenoids)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either kind of battery isolator would work for your case.  Relay-based is more convenient, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case where the second battery is used as a backup starter battery, you can disconnect the backup battery simply with a manual switch.  Normally, the backup battery is disconnected&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.  Connect it to the alternator for a couple of hours once every so often to top it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The charging current doesn't require a hefty wire, but the starting current does.  So, either provide the hefty wire, or carry the backup battery closer to the starter and use jumper wires, when the main battery is dead and it's time to put the backup to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt;In these cases, however, the second battery is for powering appliances.  In those cases, the battery is indeed an SLA.&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt;If it's not disconnected, it's not a backup.&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;sup&gt;tm&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28068" OwnerDisplayName="Nick Alexeev" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T03:13:57.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16695" CreationDate="2015-05-03T09:43:32.207" Score="2" ViewCount="38063" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rookie question here: If I want to test for spark, the most obvious thing seems to be to disconnect the gas line, remove the spark plug, plug it back in, ground the outside turn the ignition, and check for spark.  And &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there's a video&lt;/a&gt; where the guy does just that, but it's on a 1 cylinder lawnmower engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that doing the same thing on a 4 cylinder car engine might be a bad idea, since (1) You now have gas-air mix spraying out of the open cylinder (obviously you'd want to distance that from the plug you're testing) (2) One cylinder is open, with no pressure, the others are closed, which might create some kind of mechanical stress on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, I'm aware that I could just get another spark plug and swap it in there, but I'm just curious how bad an idea it is to start an engine with an open cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T14:40:49.287" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T14:40:49.287" Title="Is it dangerous/damaging to start an engine with a spark plug removed?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16694" CreationDate="2015-05-03T11:39:11.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't hurt things to test the spark or spark plug by doing so. You obviously don't want to run it that way for long. Most fuel injected vehicles have a fuse in the under hood fuse box which is for the fuel injectors. If you pull that fuse, the injectors won't fire, though everything else still works just fine, like the firing of the spark plugs (as long as that's not the issue ;-). This allows you to do the diagnostic without the worry of the engine running or fuel coming out of the single hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another thing you can do besides pulling the plug. There is a piece of equipment called a &lt;em&gt;noid&lt;/em&gt;. It is a piece which goes inline with the spark plug wire. If the electricity is going to ground, it will strobe for you. This won't show you if the electricity is passing through a bad spark plug which is grounding, but it will give you an idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1uY3C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spark Plug Noid Set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you believe you have a bad spark plug, you can also move the spark plug to another cylinder to see if the problem follows the spark plug or stays in the same cylinder. This diagnostic can help track down the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want to do is to not have a way for the spark to travel to ground such as just pulling the spark plug wire and leaving it be while trying to run the engine. With some vehicles it can burn the coil out or cause other issues ... just a word of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T11:39:11.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:09:21.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my Audi A4 97 1.8 also is leaking oil. I have been noticing the top valve gasket for a while. When I tried to tighten up the nut on it, I found the nut was loose. Then I decided to change the valve gasket. After I replaced it, I kept my engine running. I found also some white smoking coming from exhaust pipe somewhere. It was like burnt plastic. I was worried when I smelt it like plastic, I thought I might damaged something. If it was leaked oil on exhaust pipe, I think it is fine. I also noticed that where it smoked was also leaking oil.  I think I have solved out at least some problems. If anyone have questions on this, I would like to help. Because I just figured out something recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T16:04:49.803" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T16:04:49.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:53:43.970" Score="3" ViewCount="4103" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake pedal in my 06 Pontiac g6 seems harder to push than normal. Since the issue started, I've had the rear rotors and pads replaced, along with a control arm.&#xA;For the first 10-15 minutes of city driving the brakes feel fine, but if I hit a bump while I'm braking, sometimes it feels like the ABS kicks in. I also found that the handbrake is easy to pull all the way up and hardly holds on a gentle incline. &#xA;Is this a brake fluid issue or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:46:14.140" Title="Brake pedal is hard to push even after new brakes" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|abs|brake-fluid|brake-pedal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16697" CreationDate="2015-05-03T17:53:41.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have the front wheels bearings checked. A bad bearing can cause sensor misalignment and the ABS to activate. You may also have an issue with the power brake booster. The booster uses engine generated vacuum to assist with pedal effort. A leaking vacuum line may be reducing the vacuum and increase the pedal effort required to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T17:53:41.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:37:49.363" Score="4" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've failed my smog test 3 times in a row within a week. They told me it was the EGR. So I changed my EGR Valve, EGR Solenoid, and my EGR Pressure sensor.  The vacuum lines running from the EGR Valve to the Solenoid are clean, no blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran a OBD1 test, and the code 326 keeps popping up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the Catalytic Converter temps, before and after the Cat. Before it's about 300F and after, around 290F. I know it has to be hotter after to insure the pollutants are being cleaned before leaving the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Frank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10355" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T22:12:45.403" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T18:59:20.733" Title="1993 Ford Taurus LX 3.0 Catalytic Converter" Tags="|ford|emissions|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16679" CreationDate="2015-05-03T22:45:33.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. So, I'm a little embarrassed since this solution was simple. Here's what I figured out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice, if you're reading / attempting this, that running a self test of your EATC (by pressing Floor+Off Simultaneously, releasing and then pressing Automatic button within a second or two.) will likely generate a 6622 error code (Blend Door Malfunction.) Which may or may not have led you to replacing the Actuator. You'll also notice, that when running the diagnostic self test, the blend door will do a full range of motion from full cold (clockwise), to full hot (counter-clockwise.) This is the important part, as it would appear the EATC is learning the range of the Blend Door. If you do this with the Actuator NOT inserted into the heater box shaft as I did, it gets a full range of motion which is different than that of the actual door itself. This was my mistake. The diagnostic self test needs to &quot;learn&quot; the range of motion with the part installed. Just install the part (don't over think this like I did) and then run the self diagnostic test right away. Clear the codes if there are any (by pressing Defrost once the test completes and is flashing the codes.) You may have to do this twice, it would appear the EATC has to learn the range of motion with no codes present. So, clear codes, then run again and exit diagnostic mode. You should be good to go after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps someone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T22:45:33.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:03:30.900" Score="4" ViewCount="13910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had new tires put on 8th of April 15. They were cheap tires but that's all I could afford. $444 for all four.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steering now shakes, even at slow speeds. I had the wheels balanced and the alignment done which helped a bit but the problem still persists at high speeds. When I make a fast stop or slam on the brakes, it shakes really bad &amp;amp; the vehicle feels like it's going back &amp;amp; forth with the steering wheel. This is a 2011 Ford Flex. Never had any other trouble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue/how do I go about diagnosing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10358" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T17:01:21.460" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T19:08:49.790" Title="Shaking steering wheel after new tires" Tags="|ford|wheels|steering|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17006" CreationDate="2015-05-04T03:31:22.800" Score="3" ViewCount="1059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 1987 Yamaha fz700, and the owner said the headlights didn't work, and I can't figure out what's wrong. We checked some of the wiring out, and the bulb connectors have no power going into them, on the high, or low beam setting. Also the high beam light doesn't light up on the dash when its in high beam mode. &#xA;Another thing that we can't seem to get working is the turn signals. When they are slides either way, the turn light doesn't light up on the dash, and no power seems to be going to any of the cables in the back. The rear brake light works, but only when the foot brake lever is pressed, not the handlebar one. Fuses were checked and replaced, what else could be wrong? Could it just be some bad wiring from the previous owner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;There were some extra wires hanging around disconnected in the front of the bike, and when we measured them they were getting about 11v constant voltage, didn't matter if the high/low or turn signals were on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to working with motorcycles, but I've had years of experience in wiring, and electronic systems, so I know a few things, but any help, or wiring diagrams could be nice! Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:12:15.433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T20:11:08.550" Title="1987 Yamaha FZ700 headlights not working" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|wiring|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16704" CreationDate="2015-05-04T04:53:40.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search resulted in this. I couldn't find the legend for it but I guess it should be fairly straightforward.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It could be bad wiring, bring out the multi-meter!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ia902602.us.archive.org/35/items/printermanual-yamaha-fz-750-service-manual/yamahafz750servicemanual_text.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL&lt;/a&gt; . It's in German, so you may need to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://translate.google.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;translation service&lt;/a&gt; . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVb0D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FZ700 Wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T09:08:41.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T09:08:41.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T10:41:00.213" Score="8" ViewCount="6894" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handbrake on my VW Passat Estate B5 has suddenly become slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the handbrake on, the faulty side wheel is free to turn by hand.  Foot brake works as normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifting the center console, I can see from the equalizer that one-side is slack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking at the &quot;slack&quot; caliper, the lever connected to the cable is in the fully-on position and does not retract when the brake is released&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note: When the brake is released, the cable does become slack at the caliper end, so the cable does not appear to be binding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I had some work done on the brakes (replace brake light switch), the handbrake did have a springier feel than before and could be pulled much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect some kind of cam on the wet side of the piston has gone past the point of no return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:14:19.587" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:44:13.027" Title="VW Passat Estate B5 - Parking brake suddenly slack but cable not broken" Tags="|brakes|vw|handbrake|parking-brake|passat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T11:47:04.157" Score="3" ViewCount="4401" Body="&lt;p&gt;BIKE &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ENFIELD CLASSIC 350 2013 Model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ODOMETER:  14000  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One and half year old  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil changed one and half month before general servicing.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a particular sound from the engine while riding it in traffic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &quot;cut-cut&quot; or &quot;tick-tick&quot; you can say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st problem : In heavy traffic situations the engine gets hotter, and the sound appears in engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd problem : At the same time if I stop at signal and the headlights are ON the engine automatically turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I showed it to 3 mechanics in Pune&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first time I encountered the issue I took it to &#xA;&lt;em&gt;Bullet Guru&lt;/em&gt; in Pimple Saudagar - He told me that the connecting rod or the piston might be the source of the sound and that he'd have to open the engine. I didn't proceed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I went for a ride and drove around 60kms with little traffic and there was no sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd mechanic in Wakad, &lt;em&gt;Rajesh Automobile&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;he asked me to change the silencer and that there was a problem with the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3RD - &lt;em&gt;Kunal Bike Works&lt;/em&gt; in Viman Nagar who diagnosed it as a &quot;problem with auto tension system in the engine or with piston&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10359" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T14:57:25.240" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T14:57:25.240" Title="&quot;tick-tick&quot; sound in Enfield Clasic Motorcycle" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|enfield-classic|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:17:56.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the the parking brake mechanism that pushes against the parking brake pads has seized, probably due to wear/corrosion/brakedust. I would take it apart and apply a very thin amount of high temp anti-seize to the joints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case you might also feel the brake shudder at certain speeds too because it should be the same as driving around with the parking brake on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:17:56.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:10:51.783" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im searching for tires for my car which is a Opel Vectra 2003 (this car is also known as Vauxhall Vectra, Holden Vectra, Chevrolet Vectra)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cover a lot of road in a year. I do at least at least 21600 km (13422 miles) a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My climate is mostly wet (a lot of rain) with snow in the winter and just a couple of months of sun and hot days. Windy days are very common year round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daily monday thru friday is basically ~90km (56 miles) at 160-180kmph (99-112 mph) on a highway. I dont do mountains or really rough roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current size is 215/55 R16 93 V (Im willing to change to 225 50 R16 93 V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend a particular type of tyre for my driving application, such as all terrain, snow, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend a particular compound for the tyre to have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there particular size recommendations that could have benefits I am unaware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10361" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:37:05.473" Title="Tires for a Opel Vectra 2003" Tags="|tires|opel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15758" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:01:58.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's similar to the Polo, having gear linkage cables, they could have been knocked out of adjustment, or if disconnected probably were not put back exactly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; showing the adjustment procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T20:01:58.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:18:52.453" Score="4" ViewCount="3439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Chevrolet Camaro with a 5.7 liter engine and a manual transmission.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It recently started idling high but only when coasting. If I slow down because of a stop sign or whatever and hit the clutch, it'll idle from 1400-1800 rpm. It will do this in neutral as well. The idle stays there until I come to a stop. It's fine while sitting still, it's just while coasting, even at slow speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a check engine light on but unhooked the battery and when I reattached it the check engine light did not come back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10363" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T22:22:52.120" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T17:37:06.083" Title="High idle while coasting in neutral" Tags="|chevrolet|idle|camaro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:43:45.153" Score="8" ViewCount="5672" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Honda Accord V6 has a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP). I understand that this sensor gives out information in pressure units (psi or equivalent). After doing a bit of research, I realized that my car does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have a Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windmill.co.uk/obdii.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt; (page 4), I know how to calculate MPG from data retrieved from the MAF sensor (which my car doesn't have). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way for me to calculate MPG from my MAP sensor? Or is there a way to convert between data received from the MAP sensor to data that an MAF sensor would have reported if it existed? My end goal is to be able to calculate MPG using my MAP sensor (I'm using an OBD2 device to get all the data). Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10364" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:49:59.407" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T13:44:15.477" Title="Calculating MPG from MAP sensor (or converting MAP data to MAF data)" Tags="|honda|fuel-consumption|accord|obd-ii|maf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16593" CreationDate="2015-05-05T02:58:39.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rip it off if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't directing air into a radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't acting as an air dam (keeping airflow from under the car to keep it from lifting at speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is most likely a valance/splash guard/splash shield. Yank it off or hold it up with a zip tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were usually not held on with bolts but a plastic trim fastener that looked somewhat like a bolt. These were used when a thin plastic part was fastened to sheet metal, or another plastic part. Punch another hole for your zip tie to make a loop and reattach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T02:58:39.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2015-05-05T04:35:04.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2013 Volkswagen Golf TDI.  Just recently, I drove a one year NEWER 2014, VW, with a 2.5, 5 cylinder Sportwagon.  The 2.0 TDI, and the 2.5 Gas Engine, get the SAME Fuel mileage in town.  Its the TDI that saves fuel on the freeway.  Yes, the 2.5 Gas engine has the timing chain, and will last the lifetime of the car. The TDI is economical on the freeway, but its HIGHER cost in the beginning, @ purchase, and it's timing belt maintenance/replacement, is why I am going to trade my diesel in, for the gas engine with its timing chain, very soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T06:04:34.803" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T06:04:34.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16707" CreationDate="2015-05-05T06:20:10.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several places you can get a ticking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chassis&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine RPM Cable - The cable can kink or begin to backout of the cover and a ticking noise associated with engine speed may be heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speedometer/Speedometer Cable - Kinks, lack of lubrication or cable slowly backing out of the speedometer housing due to ongoing single cyclander vibration can create a ticking noise associated with kph/mph (aka how fast you are going)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drum Brakes - If it is a 'cut-cut' sound and not a 'tick-tick' sound, there is a possibility of a warped drum, it's very, very rare but I've seen it once or twice.  The brake shoes would rub the drum once a rotation (perhaps) and create the 'cut-cut' sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel Bearings - (low probability)  Wheel bearings could be going bad.  You may hear ticking.  You can test play in the bearings by putting the bike on a stand grabbing the front wheel.  Push and pull the wheel laterally to the forks.  If there is play in the axle, replace the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Engine&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Gap - you pushrods and behind an access plate at the base of the cylinder you can find an adjustment for the pushrod.  It's a simple locknut on a shaft.  Simple to adjust.  No parts necessary.  It's a component of standard maintenance.  It will make a ticking sound comping from the head or the small cover I described.  It will be in time with your RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Primary Chain Adjustment - you have a transimssion that is driven off the crankshaft by a primary chain.  Similar to HD and old Triumphs.  This chain is hidden by a cover on the left side of the motor.  There is a cam to adjust the tension of the chain.  Easy to resolve.  A component of normal maintenance.  Will make a slapping sound, perhaps a 'cut-cut' sound, it will be coming from the bottom left side of the motor.  Due to the way the chain would 'slap' up and down based upon force, RPM, etc it may not seem in time with the motor or the road, at times.  Depending on the RPM and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:15:36.633" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2015-05-05T06:57:25.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd ideally want a winter tyre with good grip in wet conditions. That's exactly what you should tell the shop when you go buy your tyres. Your tyre profile is high enough and your sizes are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T06:57:25.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2015-05-05T11:47:21.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stay with the tire size on the car. There are no benefits moving to a different tire as far as speed or traction goes, especially if you are driving in a sometimes wet or snowy climate. The type of tire you are looking for would probably be a &lt;strong&gt;Grand-Touring Tire&lt;/strong&gt;. You need one which has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;speed rating&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; or better. That leaves you: S (112mph), T (118mph), U (124mph), H (130mph), &amp;amp; V (149mph). Once you get past these, you are into the Z-rated tires, which are ultra-high performance. You could put these on your car, but you'll pay a premium for them. Realistically, you'll probably be looking at the T, U, &amp;amp; H values, and maybe V if the price point is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a longer running tire (more mileage), you need to look at the UTQG rating on the tire. On Tirerack.com, they explain the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UTQG&lt;/a&gt; as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's (NHTSA) Uniform Tire Quality Grade Standards (UTQG) were originated to provide consumers with useful information to help them purchase tires based on their relative treadwear, traction and temperature capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; While you don't live in the US, the UTQG is still a great way to identify which tires may/may not work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that the higher the UTQG, the longer lasting the tire should be. Be careful, though. The number only relates to other tires produced by a manufacturer (such as Uniroyal, BFGoodrich, etc.) and do not relate across brands. (ie: A 600 from Uniroyal does not equate to a 600 from Hankook.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of the UTQG are two letters which indicate Temperature and Treadwear. In your case, you should be looking for Temperature of A and Traction of A or AA. These values are less subjective than the number portion of the UTQG. They are specifically as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Traction&#xA;Grades  Asphalt g-Force Concrete g-Force&#xA;AA        Above 0.54         0.41&#xA;A         Above 0.47         0.35&#xA;B         Above 0.38         0.26&#xA;C       Less Than 0.38       0.26&#xA;&#xA;Temperature&#xA;Grades  Speeds in mph&#xA;A       Over 115&#xA;B       Between 100 to 115&#xA;C       Between 85 to 100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether I buy my tires online or at a store, I always &lt;strong&gt;do the research&lt;/strong&gt; on them, to include how people review them. You'll always get people who say they hate a specific tire, but look to see exactly what they are saying and use it wisely. You can always purchase the tires you like online (in most civilized places, that is) and take them to a tire shop to have them mounted/balanced. Many online tire stores even have road hazard warranties available at a reasonable price. Personally, I don't leave home without them ... I've been burnt by the pothole &lt;em&gt;way too many times&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it will be up to you to choose a tire which suits you. Hopefully this will get you on your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T11:47:21.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16747" CreationDate="2015-05-05T11:52:45.640" Score="3" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I turbo charge my Suzuki Splash/Ritz? Its a 1.2 liter petrol engine with 85HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of engines can be turbo-charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's possible, how would I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T17:20:39.297" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:00:03.060" Title="Turbo Charging Suzuki Splash/Ritz" Tags="|engine|suzuki|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16707" CreationDate="2015-05-05T12:14:35.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common Problem in Enfield as Ducati kIller said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve Gap - you pushrods and behind an access plate at the base of the cylinder you can find an adjustment for the pushrod. It's a simple locknut on a shaft. Simple to adjust. No parts necessary. It's a component of standard maintenance. It will make a ticking sound comping from the head or the small cover I described. It will be in time with your RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Above is the primary reason for the sound, they expand in heat and start to make that noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:14:35.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16711" CreationDate="2015-05-05T12:17:54.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Problem is caused by the throttle Position sensor or the linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its Quite common for an old vehicle to develop this issue , take it to a mechanic and tell him exactly the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old mechanical cars tend to develop this issue due to weakening of the accelerator linkage. Will not cost much to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:17:54.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14610" CreationDate="2015-05-05T18:38:19.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume that's the security check light. Not sure what caused your issues to start with (other than a dead battery), but sounds like the car has lost track of the key(s) and now is in 'secure' mode. You'll probably have to have a Ford tech look at it with a scanner to figure out what the problem is and how to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T18:38:19.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2015-05-06T00:34:42.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask them how much to tighten all of the fittings on the system. My limited experience is that after time things become loose as opposed to failing. The exception being seals in the compressor itself....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10377" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T00:34:42.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T04:55:01.817" Score="1" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle does not have ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the typical X configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9540" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T06:55:27.120" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T14:38:51.890" Title="Is it necessary to purge the entire brake circuit if only the front wheels flexible are changed?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16728" CreationDate="2015-05-06T07:37:08.693" Score="9" ViewCount="2221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 150cc motorcycle and am planning to install an after market air filter(K&amp;amp;N) since the stock one was favoring fuel efficiency and not performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a carburetor (Mikuni) not fuel injection, I was suggested that I should Jet the carburetor, can someone please explain how to do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T04:20:10.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:13:19.077" Title="Carburettor jetting on installation of aftermarket air filter" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16727" CreationDate="2015-05-06T08:03:24.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jetting a carburettor - short answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will require two things more than likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A size larger main jet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An adjustable needle jet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothbore Carburettor Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiE9Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;smoothbore carb&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main jet sits in the float bowl, it's number 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off idle and higher the main jet contributes more and more to air fuel mixture as you open the throttle to wide open where the main jet is 99% of your fuel delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tapered needle, number 3, gets pulled up in the main jet pipe and since it's diameter get smaller in the main jet pipe as it is pulled up in the pipe as the throttle opens, it delivers more fuel the higher it is in the main jet pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to properly jet your motorcycle  you will need to get a kit that provides those two components for our carburetors and install the two new components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The kit may also have you perform a couple of tasks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; raise the float level in your float bowl so the fuel level is higher and thereby the mixture is richer.  Increasing the height of the fuel allows the bernoulli effect to pull the liquid from the main jet pipe easier, due to it's proximity to the venturi of the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt;  Drill out air jet plugs.  There will be plugs that hide your air jets.  All Japanese manufacturers have done this since 1980.  You need to carefully drill out the air jet plugs and pull them away without drilling into the air adjustment screw.  This screw set's rich/lean for the idle circuit.  They will probably have add fuel and pull back on the air screw a bit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These measure are to richen up the air fuel mixture.  Having better airflow through your intake tract will force you to richen things up for the added air.  If you do not, the engine will run hot because it has a higher % of oxygen in the mixture, this lean condition can burn a hole in the top of your piston as an extreme result in hyper lean conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions in most jet kits are very good with photo's.  As well, someone has probably done it one youtube.  Best of luck to you!  Hope you get an extra few HP out of this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rich is better than leaner.  An engine runs cooler with a rich condition.  A very, very lean condition can destroy a motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjustable Aftermarket Jet Needles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe9tk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe9tk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-adjustable OEM Jet Needles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyJid.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyJid.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T11:13:19.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:13:19.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:02:22.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the cable jacketed?  If it is it may be broken inside the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T16:10:02.480" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T16:10:02.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16726" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:08:59.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people don't do the whole system, but as someone else said the brakes will most likely be spongy and get more so as time goes on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you have to remember is that even a tiny amount of air will start to breakdown your fluid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most people never change their brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's the start of the system getting slowly worse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your call, but in the long term it will bite you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T14:08:59.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16505" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:15:02.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check youtube I have a video out there on how to do the plugs and ignition coils&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_j8P6VjO9Os&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/_j8P6VjO9Os&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_j8P6VjO9Os&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plugs ignition coils&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T14:15:02.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16726" CreationDate="2015-05-06T14:38:51.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you break the brake system open, you need to &lt;strong&gt;bleed the entire system&lt;/strong&gt;. This ensures no air is in the system, nor any contamination. Besides, brakes don't usually get bled enough anyway. Brake fluid should be completely changed every 2 years at a maximum (even I am a failure at keeping up to standard on this). It realistically doesn't take a lot of time/effort to change out the brake fluid, so the optimal solution is to change it all out while you're at it. We are talking about a vital safety system, so why skimp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T14:38:51.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16734" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:43:36.013" Score="2" ViewCount="4435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder on my &lt;code&gt;2007 v6 Tacoma&lt;/code&gt;.  When I detached the old one, I tried to minimize the leakage of the brake fluid.  Once I put the new part in and add more brake fluid, how should I make sure that the system is bled out of air and there are no air bubbles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T02:36:01.083" Title="How to avoid having air bubbles in clutch line after cylinder replacement?" Tags="|brake-fluid|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16733" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:06:54.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bleeding procedure is the same as it would be for a hydraulic brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nipple on the master cylinder to bleed out fluid and air, same as a brake caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump the clutch to build up pressure (keep clutch depressed)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the nipple/valve on the master cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow fluid/air to escape from the nipple/valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Close nipple/valve on master cylinder &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove pressure from clutch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump clutch......&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash/rinse/repeat above procedure until no more air is coming out of the master cylinder nipple/valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BE SURE THE RESERVOIR ALWAYS HAS BRAKE FLUID IN IT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it, very simple, same as brakes.  Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nipple is located on the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder should be located towards the bottom of the transmission at the bell housing. You are looking for something which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Quiy6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from rockauto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brass fitting is what you'd be using to do the bleed. Obviously, the hose which you'd follow down from the master cylinder would be attached to this but is not shown in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T02:36:01.083" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T02:36:01.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:09:21.793" Score="2" ViewCount="6642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a leak out of my clutch master cylinder for quite a long time (until I figured what it was causing it).  The floor mat is pretty soaked in brake fluid (and I am replacing it) but there are also some on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to clean it, at least to some extent?  Regular dish soap and water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:57:17.433" Title="How to clean brake fluid spillage from vehicle floor?" Tags="|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:30:06.123" Score="4" ViewCount="68840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed new rear calipers on both sides, new pads on all four wheels, and bled brakes with engine off, then with engine on, two times each. The pedal is hard when the engine is off and extremely soft when running. It can be pushed to the floor with little effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that there is probably air in the system somewhere, but I've bled through a significant amount of fluid with no bubbles coming out. Would air trapped in the ABS affect the pedal feel? Are there other possibilities that I should check, or is the best course just to keep bleeding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2002 Buick Lesabre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10382" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T04:53:41.437" Title="What is the cause of a soft brake pedal after bleeding?" Tags="|brakes|buick|lesabre|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T19:21:58.770" Score="4" ViewCount="4470" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an overnight rest in the warm weather (above 16 degC), unlocking my 2008 Jetta 2.5L SE, my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13479/how-do-i-know-if-my-lead-acid-battery-has-been-resurrected&quot;&gt;OEM battery&lt;/a&gt; with the minimal &quot;welcome&quot; electronics -- remote open of the driver door a few seconds earlier; automatic turn on of the electronic speedometer and the foot lights (I keep the dome lights turned off through a switch); open hood -- measures 12.15V under such load through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00B7CS3UY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10-dollar voltmeter&lt;/a&gt; in the 20V mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a few seconds afterwards, the voltage suddenly jumps directly from 12.15V to about 12.27V, and then slowly climbs to 12.32V or so.  I suspect this happens when the foot lights and the speedometer go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that 12.32V would put the battery into the 60% charge according to most of the State of Charge charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it fair to say that my battery has finally been resurrected?  (I haven't had to jump start it in months, but, then again, overnight temperatures have not been much below about 10degC for quite a long time now; I also suspect that the extra hot temperatures in the daytime may have helped to dissolve the crystallisation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T04:29:18.897" Title="What's an acceptable battery power drop on light load?" Tags="|battery|vw|power|jetta|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16737" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:55:45.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very well could be the battery has what is called a &lt;em&gt;surface charge&lt;/em&gt;. The battery will have enough power to start the vehicle, but if too much of a load is put onto it, the voltage will drop and not be enough to run the vehicle with or with out a good alternator. The battery will basically be sucking the alternator dry. When this happens, the wipers will start running slower, the lights will dim dramatically, and all heck breaks loose (not literally, I just liked throwing the cliche out there). A battery will behave better in warmer weather than it will in cold weather. Nominally, a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; battery should be around 13.1-13.5vdc at rest (no load, fully charged). From the sounds of it, yours is a little under the weather. If I were you, I'd plan on replacing it soon, as it may have issues when you least expect it or can least afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:55:45.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16735" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:59:11.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone else might have something better, but I'd probably just use a portable carpet cleaner with regular solution which goes in it. It should leach most or all of the brake fluid out of the carpet ... I doubt you'll get &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of it out, but it shouldn't be too big of a deal. Clean it a couple of times and you should be golden. If you don't have the equipment, take it to a car detail shop, tell them what you want, and have them do it. They'll have techniques and equipment to get it out without an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note:Brake fluid is water soluble so you don't need special cleaners such as a de-greaser.  A wet vac with soap and water is suitable to resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:57:17.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12636" CreationDate="2015-05-07T03:30:38.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@marc covers the adjustment process well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, uneven tension is a sign of wear, and can be a cause for chain replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every chain driven bike has a maximum chain slack, and a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain slack should be adjusted to the minimum allowable slack at the tightest point.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After adjusting, the loosest point must also be checked. If the chain slack is above the maximum allowable at the slackest point, then the chain is worn out, and must be replaced due to uneven wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, if the chain has worn out, the sprockets should be replaced as well. This is because a worn sprocket can greatly accelerate wear on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T12:09:46.957" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T12:09:46.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16737" CreationDate="2015-05-07T04:29:18.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost any amount of load you put on the battery is going to drop the voltage. How much depends on the capacity of the battery as well as the health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It would appear that 12.32V would put the battery into the 60% charge according to most of the State of Charge charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State of charge charts are referring to open circuit voltage (without any load on the battery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/412/85&quot;&gt;How to test a car battery&lt;/a&gt; for more information on testing the battery, as well as the state of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T04:29:18.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2588" CreationDate="2015-05-07T06:34:40.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answers to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.Yes there is a difference, an after-market K&amp;amp;N Filter will improve power(not much but noticeable) and efficiency of your car at &lt;strong&gt;low speeds&lt;/strong&gt;, but at higher speeds it will rob the efficiency quite a bit all due to increased air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Stock air filters are better for the engine life and fuel efficiency since they restrict much of the air flow to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.The most cheapest way to add performance to any vehicle is to add an after-market air filter and upgrading to a free flow exhaust(check with your country's law if they permit the emission since most systems remove the catalytic converter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: while getting the filter if you go for the conical ones they will produce a muffled sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T06:34:40.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2015-05-07T07:19:06.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look for leaking as the bleed off valve(s) might not have been tightened fully, or air remaining in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T07:19:06.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2588" CreationDate="2015-05-07T07:43:15.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, he's kind of right. You will get about 1BHP more from a good quality filter. But unless you're the princess who slept on the pea, you won't notice. What better quality filters DO have going for them is that they take longer to clog up. So they don't really GIVE you more power, they're better at PREVENTING power loss once you've driven a couple thousand miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a slightly related note: changing out your whole air intake system fools your MAF sensor into making the car run leaner than it's supposed to. A potentially dangerous situation that's not worth the tiny gain in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T07:43:15.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16719" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:00:03.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, it's a lot cheaper to remove excess weight. If you use this car as a daily drive it's best to keep stuff like a spare tire and jack in your car..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the easy stuff: a lot of people have a lot of stuff in their car that they'll never need. If you want to make the car even more lighter, you could opt to remove the rear seat and plastic panels. Keep in mind that driving with sharp edges on the inside of your car that might hurt you in an accident is illegal in Europe. Remove door trims, carpets and your glove box. Fill the tank of the car only half each time, ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case (which I doubt) you want to take this car on trackdays: replace your side and read windows by plexiglass, install a roll cage, lower the center of gravity, keep unsprung weight as low as possible, get to a 50/50 weight distribution, .. It'll be hilarious to see a Suzuki Splash on the track! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: less weight = better fuel economy = faster car = more money for racing parts = even faster car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:00:03.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16748" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:52:26.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most often rust is the result of oxidation of a ferrous material.  Rust is slang for iron oxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T16:08:20.950" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:08:20.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16749" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:52:26.483" Score="0" Body="The byproduct of oxidation of a metallic material" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T16:09:35.470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:09:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2588" CreationDate="2015-05-07T12:39:19.053" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent several weeks researching this issue not that many years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read all sorts of claims and &quot;proof&quot; that a $50 air filter will improve your vehicle's acceleration, horsepower, torque, longevity, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would always be something about the &quot;proof&quot; that seemed questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I read a most insightful comment.  The insightful author pointed out that if all it took to improve power was a $50 (retail) filter that probably costs $2 to manufacture, then every vehicle manufacturer in the world would use those filters as standard equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logic and &lt;em&gt;truthiness&lt;/em&gt; of this comment really resonated with me, and I decided the only real advantage of expensive reusable filters is the environmental one.  Not having to throw a filter into the landfill is a real, tangible, and undeniable benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T12:39:19.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T12:49:46.983" Score="15" ViewCount="67579" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much air does a tire typically lose each month?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do nitrogen-filled tires actually lose less air (well, nitrogen) each month?  If so, what's normal for them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a tire store manager I spoke with, a tire will lose about 2 PSI each month, whether filled with air or nitrogen.  Does this sounds about right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my small sample size (the one vehicle I brought to him), he was right on the money.  The tires were all 9 PSI low, and I hadn't checked them in about 4-5 months.  (The spare was about 20 PSI low!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he is correct, and this is typical, we all should be adding air every month, as even a 2 PSI difference is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T10:23:44.697" Title="How much air should a tire lose each month?" Tags="|tires|safety|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16753" CreationDate="2015-05-07T13:47:40.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire store manager is pretty much on the money. A better way to say it, though, might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A normal tire &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; lose &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;up to&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; 2 psi a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this important? &lt;strong&gt;Every tire/wheel combo is going to be different in the rate at which they lose air pressure.&lt;/strong&gt; There are several ways (besides a puncture) a tire can lose air pressure. Those might include a bad valve stem seal, valve core issues, bead seal, or even a bad/damaged wheel. Some tire/wheels &lt;em&gt;may never lose air pressure&lt;/em&gt; or may lose it at such a slow rate it is fairly imperceptible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as using nitrogen goes, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=why%20put%20nitrogen%20in%20your%20tires&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt; turned up this quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First is that nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, though, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://eesc.columbia.edu/courses/ees/slides/climate/table_1.html&quot;&gt;air we breath&lt;/a&gt; is about typically 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen (and 1% of other gases). Which means most of the gas we put into our tires normally is nitrogen ... if the above quote is true, it's mainly the oxygen which is escaping through the tire. Having nitrogen in your tires means if you want it to stay as such, you need to check and refill using nitrogen. This may pose an issue of travelling to your local tire shop to get the pressure checked, unless you have a portable source of nitrogen lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this said, the most important thing you could do is to check your tires on a monthly basis to ensure proper pressure resides inside. This will keep you, your passengers, and vehicle safe from tire failure due to under-inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T13:47:40.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16753" CreationDate="2015-05-07T14:43:31.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally a tire loses around 1-2 psi a month. However this figure is absolutely a generic statement. In real life, the figure depends upon various factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many miles/kms you drive daily?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the condition of the road/tarmac that you generally drive on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your driving style? Aggresive or Defensive?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any puncture in your tires? (considering the tires are tubeless)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, coming to the specifics of the above points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you drive your car daily for a considerable number of miles(~20 miles), then you may not see even 1psi drop in tire pressure over a month(if you dont have any puncture and considering all other scenarios to normal). However if you drive occassionally, then you may see a big drop(+2-4 psi) in tire pressure over a month. That explains why your spare showed so big drop (20psi) is tire pressure as you dont use the spare while on road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The broken the tarmac, the more drop in tire pressure is expected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you drive sedately, avoiding sudden braking or acceleration or wheel spin, then you will not find big drop in tire pressure. On the contrary, an aggressive driving style will make your tires lose air pressure quite much and will also reduce the tire life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, quite obviously, if you have a puncture in your tubeless tire, you may see a good drop(~10+psi) in tire pressure. However, if the puncture is a tiny hole, then you may not see any difference if you drive your car daily for good distances.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my cent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T15:17:40.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T15:17:40.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16761" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:21:43.617" Score="2" ViewCount="6109" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;  2007 Toyota Tacoma 4WD v6 6 speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a new master cylinder (the truck is at about 120K mi) but when I reconnected all the plumbing, it seems like it is not filling with fluid.  The pedal seems two have two extreme states of being depressed and being released, meaning nothing in between, kind of like a power switch, it is on or off.  When depressed, the pedal just stays in, does not go back.  I did refill the brake fluid (which also feeds the clutch system) after reconnecting all the lines and hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this?  Could there be a plug inside the cylinder fluid intake valve (kind of like it was inside the line out valve, I assume to prevent dust from coming in) that I should have taken out before installation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T15:29:27.617" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T07:48:19.860" Title="New clutch master cylinder not filling with fluid after replacement" Tags="|clutch|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16703" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:43:59.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible the belts inside one of the tires is broken. With brand new tires, likely a manufacturing defect. A broken belt will make the car feel as you describe, and can be mistaken for the tires being out of balance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this happen before.  In my case, the tire was old and I hit too many potholes.  One of the unique symptoms I remember is the tire shake will get better and worse by itself sometimes. I think the broken belts are shifting around slightly inside the tire, and when they get in a &quot;good&quot; position the shaking will be less, and when the belts move around again the shaking will get worse again.  This can repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you feel it strongly in the steering wheel, it is more likely a front tire.  To diagnose, you could replace one of the front tires with the spare, and test drive to see if the shake goes away completely.  If it does, you found the bad tire.  If not, try swapping the other front tire and see if the shake goes away.  The normal warnings about not driving too far or too fast on the spare tire apply.  You said you feel it even at low speeds, so that makes it easier to test drive and maybe figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10393" LastEditorUserId="10393" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T17:01:10.590" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T17:01:10.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8901" CreationDate="2015-05-07T17:36:53.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is impossible to confirm a diagnosis without seeing/hearing the vehicle in person, I would put money on this being a loose power steering belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine, or more importantly, the power steering belt and pulleys are cold, they do not 'grip' as well. This causes the belt to slip on the pulleys creating a chirping/squealing noise and decreased assistance in turning the steering wheel. This sound also occurs when running the steering into the stop because the load on the pump increases dramatically, usually causing the belt to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the belt/pulleys warm up they 'grip' better and don't slip, so no noise is generated and the pump can assist steering as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this is a 4 cylinder (3sfe engine) Camry, since the 6 cylinders were rare in 1991. The power steering pump is turned by it's own separate belt, which is a pain to replace since all the other belts must come off first. If they're due for service, replace all of your belts or just tighten up the power steering belt a bit and the noise should go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be weary of shops that want to replace the pump or steering rack. I have yet to see a P.S. pump that didn't die due to lack of fluid from a leak, which you haven't mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T18:08:19.630" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T18:08:19.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T19:45:05.743" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the breaker point on my 1980 Oldsmobile, trying to fix some spurious misfires and engine stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was converted to gasoline in the early nineties or late eighties, engine is a -76 Olds 350.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The breaker is a combined breaker and condenser. Exact model can be seen here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Tron-D1007-Heavy-Duty-Uniset-Contact-Set-Condenser-/110882181642&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Tron-D1007-Heavy-Duty-Uniset-Contact-Set-Condenser-/110882181642&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing the old one with a new of the same make and model I couldn't get any sparks on the sparkplugs. Measuring the capacitor with a multimeter suggested it might be a short in the capacitor. Went back to the shop and got it replaced, same problem. Got it replaced two more times but to no avail. Even ordered one from eBay, same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old capacitor measures about 600pF, I haven't even been able to get a reading on any of the replacements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like I'm missing something fundamental, or is it the rest of the world that has gone crazy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10400" LastEditorUserId="10400" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T17:43:54.337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:55:30.473" Title="New breaker points not working" Tags="|engine|ignition|gm|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16756" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:00:04.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, see if you can get the process started by loosening the pressure line(s) and pumping the pedal a few times. Once some fluid makes it way out and starts leaking, tighten the line(s) and continue to bleed the air out as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the process still wont start, remove the master cylinder, &lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/MC_bench-bleed.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bench bleed&lt;/a&gt; it, then reinstall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the master cylinder won't bench bleed (push out fluid when you push the piston in), the seal around the piston may be deformed/damaged. I have had this happen to me only once in many, many replacements over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T20:07:41.113" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:07:41.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T22:35:06.197" Score="4" ViewCount="11181" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2000 Chevy Blazer 4WD 4.3L V6 Engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt; (I suspect this might be the symptoms of 2 over-lapping problems?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake light comes on. It then goes off if I press the brake to the floor. (Comes back on after restarting the vehicle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes are inconsistent. Sometimes I have to press them to the floor to stop, other times they only need pressed a little. This occasionally changes while driving, causing a bit of worry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very loud squeaking when turning right. This is the newest symptom and it started today.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the (front) Brake-pads less than 2 months ago, and I have a very good feeling they are worn again. Lots of dust on the (front) rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine-light came on with error code: 0174 - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0174&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;System Too Lean &amp;#40;Bank 2&amp;#41;&quot;&gt;System Too Lean (Bank 2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional Hesitation on take-off. It almost seems like I'm holding the brake a little bit (I'm not) at first, then I give it more gas and it takes off (So it appears to other drivers that I wasn't paying attention that the light turned green lol).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Year Ago - Brake-pads and master-cylinder replaced as part of troubleshooting brakes going to the floor. (Turned out to be a sneaky leak in the back).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Months Ago - I got T-Boned on the Driver-side (from the middle of the back-door to behind the back-wheel). Broke the leaf-spring, blew the tires, and damaged the brake lines. Replaced all three (and a few other things).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~2 Months Ago - (front only) Brake-pads were grinding. Never heard any squeaking from brakes. Replaced (front) Brake-pads and flipped the rotors. Also noticed that the &quot;casing&quot; on the CV-Joint was off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two Problems?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I think it might be two different problems is that at first I thought the brakes were sticking (causing the occasional hesitation of take-off and theoretically causing additional brake-pad-ware) but after looking into the engine-error-code I'm thinking that is to blame for the hesitation. After all the engine would get louder if you hold the brakes and the gas at the same time wouldn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause the brake-pads to wear down so fast? (And potentially not squeak, because I suspect that the squeaking I hear when turning right has to do with the CV-Joint and not the brakes, it's like nails on a chalkboard x10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speculation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trust my Dad's decision to flip the rotors instead of replacing them, (I'll definitely look at them again when I get the chance though) so I'm going to guess for now that it's not them. The pads are obviously a symptom and not a cause (because I avoid braking heavy). When we changed the pads and flipped the rotors, the calipers looked a bit rusty (so I'm hoping it's them since I know how to change those). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other possibilities? I'm still fairly new to the inner-workings of a vehicle (more of a computer guy willing to learn as he goes), so just knowing what -could- cause something like this is helpful so I can at least research it further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:31:01.893" Title="Brake Pads worn in under two months" Tags="|brakes|blazer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16763" CreationDate="2015-05-07T22:45:55.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely they wore out so fast because your rotors were rough.  Rough rotors will wear brake pads out real fast.  I suggest replacing the rotors.  Some people polish their rotors (AKA &quot;turning&quot;) but that requires a lath.  They shouldn't be too expensive to just replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T22:45:55.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T01:25:17.660" Score="4" ViewCount="3615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I replaced the rotors and pads on my 09 Mini Cooper. I thought it went well, but in the first short test drive, it feels like the emergency brake is set a bit. I drove a half mile, and both rear rotors are hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to do anything with the emergency brake? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10405" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T02:32:03.127" Title="Replaced rear rotors and pads, now both rotors hot on first test drive" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16765" CreationDate="2015-05-08T02:32:03.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds a lot like the rear brakes are dragging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, that means the brakes are always just slightly on, which causes the brakes to heat, and rapid pad wear.&#xA;Note that hydraulic brakes &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; fail if they get too hot, due to brake fade, so this can become a serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking for brake drag is very easy. Put the transmission in neutral, and jack up the rear wheel so that the wheel can spin freely.. if the brakes are dragging, it will spin less easily, and for less time than is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the pads and rotors were replaced, there are a few things that could cause this. &#xA;If the caliper pistons were not properly retracted during the pad replacement, the gap between pads may be too narrow for the rotors, this will cause dragging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the calipers are not correctly centered on the rotors, this can easily cause one side to drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T02:32:03.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14610" CreationDate="2015-05-08T06:38:47.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it not cranking even? If not, then I strongly suggest a hard reset of ECU and Engine Immobiliser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T06:38:47.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T10:29:26.260" Score="1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;How come there are cars with 1500cc engine producing with better fuel efficiency than a 800cc motorcycle with roughly the same amount of bhp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a Suzuki Splash with 1200cc and 87bhp returns 15km/liter while as a Honda CBR 250r with 25 bhp return only 20km/l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone please explain the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:29:26.260" Title="Fuel Efficiency vs Engine capacity" Tags="|engine|honda|suzuki|efficiency|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-08T13:21:33.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16763" CreationDate="2015-05-08T10:31:01.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you may have more than even two issues going on here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ever you replace your pads, you should as a minimum burnish the rotors. This means taking the glaze off of them so the new pads can bed (or break-in) correctly. Realistically you should have the turned (or machined) so there is a fresh surface for your new pads to ride on. As an alternative, new replacement rotors will cost you just a few dollars more than turning them will, so this is usually the better alternative, especially where safety is concerned. If the brakes are not bedded correctly when first installed, they can wear out very quickly. You can also get a vibration when braking which feels like a warped rotor. Neither is a very good alternative, especially since you just put new pads on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another area to look at is to see if you have a bad wheel bearing. If there is more deflection than normal (which should be zero with a good wheel bearing), your brakes can wear out faster. In extreme cases, if the wheel is allow to deflect enough, you'll start hearing odd grinding/squealing noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your CV Joint may be having an issue. If it doesn't already, it soon will if the boot isn't in place. The boot is there to keep the grease in (which keeps the joint lubed) and keep the dirt/dust/debris out. It usually doesn't take long after the boot is ripped/torn/gone for the damage to occur. You can get noise from the CV Joint. It's usually a loud &quot;clicking&quot; noise when you go around a corner. (I'm not sure if your Blazer is one where the drive axle is rotating all of the time, or if it only gets engaged when the front end of the 4wd is actually being used.) This will be something you'll need to inspect, but if the boot has been off for some time, you'll probably need to replace at least the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You state that there is a P0174 (System too lean - bank 2) code present. This is usually caused by one of several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of &quot;oiled&quot; air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak at the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 2, sensor 1) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: These are the things which came from P0171, which is for bank 1, but it is a much more comprehensive list of &quot;things which could be wrong&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also try to just delete the code and see if it comes back. Sometimes things just become a little out of whack for a short period of time. Nothing may be exactly &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt;, so after the reset things will read as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:31:01.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2015-05-08T10:37:26.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably the sound is from a loose TAPPET in the cylinder block, usually it goes away after a few thousand kilometres but if it still persists then you need to open up the header and tighten the tappets with the help of the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not advisable to DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And No this is not a very serious issue. My personal bike had the same issue from day 1 and after 35000kms it is still slightly noticeable.The good news is that it does not affect anything in the long run.(At least for the sub 500cc bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a RE bike the noise might be irritating since the revs are low and the appeal of the bike is the thumping sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:37:26.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16775" CreationDate="2015-05-08T10:55:08.167" Score="3" ViewCount="2200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently dented my Fiat Punto Active 8v 3 Door Hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWS3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000MQG5JM/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=0W1HNHJ3VCH26STNAYBM&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=455333147&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=468294&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual suction cup&lt;/a&gt; to remove the dent. With the severity of the damage, do you think I'd be successful with such a tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10408" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:11:22.130" Title="Fiat Punto Door Dent" Tags="|repair|door|fiat|dent|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16774" CreationDate="2015-05-08T11:05:29.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the damage which is there, a suction cup dent puller is not going to do the job you are looking for it to do. If there was only &quot;dent&quot; damage, the suction cup can &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; remove them. When you have creasing, pulls, dents, and paint transference, you are going to need a body shop to get this fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could find a replacement door at a junk yard and just replace the door yourself. There appears to be just minor damage to the door frame at the bottom. If you were to find a replacement door which is the same color as yours, replacement would be far cheaper. You'd then just need to do some touch-up work on the door frame at the bottom to get rid of the rust which seems to be forming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T11:05:29.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16774" CreationDate="2015-05-08T12:22:56.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow Paulster2's comment is to get a perfect result. But prior to going to a body shop or going to the scrapyard, you might try this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the dent looks really clean to me, another possibility might be to remove the inner door trims and push against the dent from the inside. You might be able to reach the dent from the inside without too much parts that are in the way. It &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be dented out again with the right amount of pressure and just with your bare hands. Scrape off the damaged paint and repaint it yourself. This out-denting costs half an hour work, but might save a few bucks and a search for an equal door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T15:11:22.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:11:22.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-05-08T13:13:12.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is very important to engage a low gear while coming down a slope or incline.&lt;/strong&gt; The general thumb rule is that, while coming down an incline, you should use the same gear which you will use to climb that incline. &#xA;Using a low gear helps in engine braking, thus the brake pads are less burdened, thus less heat is produced and hence lesser wear of the brake pads can be achieved. Also you can use the throttle to control the descend to some extent.&#xA;Infact in some heavy vehicles, engine braking is a must while coming downhill as prolonged braking from the brake-pads sometimes results in a phenomenon called &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Brake Fade&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; or temporary loss of braking power. Trust me, that is not a good thing to encounter, especially when you are coming downhill with the curves and the traffic ahead.&#xA;Regarding efficiency, i agree with @Nate Eldredge. You will be saving more while coasting in gear than in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Motoring:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:13:12.730" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-05-08T13:13:12.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2015-05-08T14:05:19.070" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a bottle of chemiweld, pour it into the radiator without the radiator cap. Let the motor heat up let it cool. Drive as normal flush radiator and heater etc.  When the problem is solved.  I know this is an old thread but for anyone new looking to solve the same problem this dude has had head gasket seepage .... water flowing into head and boiling cause gaskets stuffed between cylinders a bottle of chemiweld there are others it works best fixes that in moments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T16:09:33.070" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:09:33.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16637" CreationDate="2015-05-08T14:49:58.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it is due to improper wheel-alignment or even worse, a damaged frame, which had made the front and rear wheel go out of alignment.&#xA;Misalignment between front and rear wheel can be caused due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An Accident: As you mentioned that the motorcycle came with old tires, I assume you are not the first owner of the vehicle. So, the previous owner might have crashed the frame and thus creating the misalignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bent suspension fork: Caused due to hard offroading or by crashing hard into potholes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, get the wheel alignment, the frame and the suspension forks checked, I think that way you will get to the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T14:49:58.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2015-05-08T17:44:30.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got it resolved (at least mostly). There was air in the system, and roughly 1.5 hours of continuous bleeding pushed it out. Thanks for the answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10382" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T17:44:30.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16803" CreationDate="2015-05-08T17:50:57.840" Score="2" ViewCount="3692" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car decided to overheat yesterday. It was noticed while we were waiting to pick someone up from the airport. We shut the car off until they arrived. (15 minutes or so) We then drove home with the heat gauge not getting hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we got home I let the car cool. I then added a small amount of coolant (size of a yogurt container) just to top it off. i also added a bit to the reservoir to bring it above the &quot;low&quot; mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question(s) would be:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should I be concerned about it happening again or was the little bit of fluid I added enough to make a difference? &#xA;Does the fact that the car doesn't overheat while drive mean the thermostat is not the issue? &#xA;If none of the above, what would be the most likely issue that would cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6725" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:15:34.057" Title="2008 Toyota Corolla - Overheated while idling, coolant full or very slightly low" Tags="|toyota|coolant|corolla|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11853" CreationDate="2015-05-08T18:51:58.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tuff Torx engineer I talked with recommended using 5W-50 synthetic oil. I use it in my JD and Husqvarna mowers.  My JD is 23 years old ( Used 10W30 for 18 of those years) and the Husqvarna is 8 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10418" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T23:29:06.487" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T23:29:06.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16788" CreationDate="2015-05-08T19:40:35.317" Score="4" ViewCount="18257" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4WD v6 6 speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/MC_bench-bleed.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on pre-bleeding but it is generic (not vehicle specific) and I think there are differences between the cylinder it uses and Tacoma's, which makes it hard to translate the instructions practically. The main difference is, I think, that his cylinder has the tank mounted on it directly whereas Tacoma's has a hose that feeds the fluid to it from the brake fluid tank, making it difficult to keep the tank on and topped off like it is suggesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen in the picture below, my master cylinder has an intake nozzle that the rubber hose gets clamped onto. I experimented trying to pour the fluid directly inside (by taking the the white nozzle cap off) and the &lt;strong&gt;fluid was coming inside very, very slowly, as though the nozzle was clogged, with tiny bubbles coming out&lt;/strong&gt;. I also wanted to see whether there was cloggage or something (it's a brand new cylinder) cause I was trying to bleed it while it was installed (I took it out since) but the fluid was just not coming in. I also tried venting the slave cylinder but, as I was pumping the clutch pedal, nothing was coming out of there after some initial emulsified spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDi7E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried to see what happens if I take out the clutch line out of the cylinder while it was installed, while leaving the intake hose in. I thought I was going to get a sh*tstorm of fluid coming out of the line valve as I pumped the pedal but there was almost nothing coming out. So I started questioning whether there was actually fluid coming through the intake hose from the reservoir but there was (there was no cloggage in the intake hose coming out of the firewall, i ran a smaller hose through it and it went through no problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mater how much I would pump the pedal (and the cylinder plunger was properly mounted on it), the cylinder seemed not to be sucking the fluid in from the hose. Which is perhaps explained by the bolded statement above about the experiment with pouring the fluid in directly. However, this is just a speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BONUS QUESTION:&lt;/strong&gt; How is the master cylinder nozzle designed to allow the fluid to only come inside without pumping it out in reverse upon the pumping action? Does that design explain why the fluid is so slow to come in (as described in the experiment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2021-04-26T01:33:37.300" Title="How to bleed Toyota Tacoma clutch system?" Tags="|clutch|brake-fluid|clutch-cylinder|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16787" CreationDate="2015-05-08T21:36:10.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a standard procedure.  You may need to use a vacuum hand pump to 'prime' the master cylinder.  I have encountered the issue you are describing and the luxury of having a mighty vac to pull the brake fluid through the system.  Once the master cylinder is primed, it becomes much easier and you begin to get traction on getting the air out and having the master cylinder actually act as a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bleeding procedure is the same as it would be for a hydraulic brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a nipple on the master cylinder to bleed out fluid and air, same as a brake caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump the clutch to build up pressure (pumping the clutch is referring to depressing it with your foot repeatedly to build up pressure in the hydraulic system, keep clutch depressed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open the nipple/valve on the slave cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow fluid/air to escape from the nipple/valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Close nipple/valve on the slave cylinder (see image below for an example of a slave cylinder, the 'nipple' that is being referred to is brass colored)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Quiy6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove pressure from clutch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump clutch......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash/rinse/repeat above procedure until no more air is coming out of the master cylinder nipple/valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mighty Vac alternate bleeding method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of a hand held vacuum pump that many auto stores would carry a version of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image of a mighty vac handheld pump is in referrence to alternate method of bleeding the hydraulic system.  Using this vacuum pump has a different procedure than described above.   To use the pump you would put the vacuum line from the handheld pump on the brass nipple on the master cylinder image and open the nipple/valve.  You would then use the pump to suck fluid through the system and dispense of the air.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WzIas.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bonus Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of a cutaway master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwXNC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it acts as a one way valve after the plunger passes the gravity fed fluid delivery in the bottom of the reservoir.  Once that point is passed it hydraulically compressing the fluid to displace a piston in either brake caliper or a clutch which is actually actuating whatever component the engineers want it to.  Upon retraction of the plungers the piston is able to pull back and any fluid that needs to be displaced back into the reservoir can have a path to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BE SURE THE RESERVOIR ALWAYS HAS BRAKE FLUID IN IT WHILE YOU ARE BLEEDING.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T23:28:07.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16791" CreationDate="2015-05-08T22:35:35.447" Score="9" ViewCount="28125" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (2013 Ford Focus, 12k miles, 5 speed manual) suddenly started to grind when shifting into 1st from a stop about halfway through my commute home. I realized that if I depress the clutch for long enough, and then shift into 1st, it is a smoother, or completely smooth shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called my dealer and they can't look until Monday, so I wanted to post on here to satisfy my curiosity until then. The guy asked me to try shifting into 2nd and then into 1st to see if that goes smoother, and it was in fact smooth every time, no grinding. He told me to do that until Monday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this indicate a synchro issue? Is this really bad? (Fortunately it's still well under warranty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10419" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:35:02.110" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:40:35.893" Title="Grinding when shifting into 1st from a stop" Tags="|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16456" CreationDate="2015-05-08T23:09:21.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to jump a Prius is from the front junction box as shown above (and detailed in your manual). Instead of a 20' jumper cable, which would be quite heavy, I would suggest buying or borrowing a battery-based jump starter device such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00CMP3Z1C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. The last time I called a towing service to jump my Prius, they brought a battery-based device, which made the process much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9153" LastEditorUserId="24394" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T18:52:36.103" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T18:52:36.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2015-05-09T00:21:09.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Possible Cause&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible cause is clutch adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clutch is dragging you can experience these symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you have a hydraulic clutch.  If your fluid reservoir is low and a little bit of air got into the system you would need to bleed the air out in order for the clutch to become completely disengaged from the engine.  If air is in the hydraulic system it will create the symptoms your are experiencing. The air would get compressed in your hydraulic line when you pushed on the clutch rather than the clutch disengaging if the air were bled out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch drag makes it difficult to get into 1st gear and cause the sounds and create the difficulty you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:40:35.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T01:35:52.897" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 94 Chrysler Concorde stalls after it runs a few miles. It will start up again after I wait a few minutes or stalls but to eventually kick over just to do the same thing again. I had the carburetor cleaned and thermostat changed. It ran a little better afterwards, but the next day started back to original stall and run again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10420" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:21:58.633" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T21:06:41.417" Title="Car stalls after running" Tags="|chrysler|stall|concorde|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T01:56:04.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my 300C Chrysler serviced for brake issue some time ago.  They said that there was wear on both front and rear brakes. They changed the front pads, and said that there was pulsation when braking, and excessive run out rear brake rotors, and they resurfaced the rear rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that they resurfaced rear rotors, and supposedly never replaced pads. Is this normal, or likely to occur, because now many miles later they are stating I need pads, which should be covered for life based on their warranty that they give for brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10421" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:17:36.400" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:17:36.400" Title="Resurfacing brake rotators without replacing pads" Tags="|brakes|chrysler-300c|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16760" CreationDate="2015-05-09T04:02:13.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you removed the original condenser if it didn't have a uniset in it when you changed them. That being said, it sounds like the points are either not fully seated or adjusted way off. Loosen the screws and try pushing down while trying to slide the point set.  There is a hole that the point pivot must fit into or it will not seat properly thereby keeping the points open, and no spark. If that is good, tighten the screws, and make sure the points are not set incorrectly. They need to open AND close. They need to be set wth a dwell meter to be most accurate.  The alternative is using a gap gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest/fastest way to check it is to have the distributor cap removed, have the coil wire about half an inch from the block, have someone turn the key to spin the engine and turn the adjustment screw in the points one way and/or the other until you get spark. Note that if you turn the screw too far in one direction the points could fall apart. Once you get spark it should run and then you can put it back together and set the dwell with it running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T04:02:13.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:08:09.387" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of our cars recently had problems starting on a ~70°F day, after having the headlights on for 10-15mins with the engine stopped, post a 20 mile drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decision was to replace the battery, which was done and we have had no issues with the car starting/running since. However, I am interested in the state of the &quot;old&quot; battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What method(s) would the community suggest for someone with a moderate understanding of electronics and electrics, to test this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" OwnerDisplayName="user66001" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:30:51.413" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:30:51.413" Title="How to test charge-holding condition of car lead acid battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:54:43.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charge it completely full, until it floats at 14.8 V or whatever is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then hook it to a modest load, perhaps a 1 A tail light, and plot the voltage as it discharges. Stop when you get to 8 V and immediately recharge it so you don't do too much damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give you an idea of the remaining capacity in the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the whole of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteryuniversity.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;batteryuniversity.com&lt;/a&gt; and also dig on the internet for datasheets of similar batteries, for their discharge curves. And read on StackExchange, in fact, the right hand column is full of similar questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="tomnexus" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T17:46:17.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2015-05-08T10:45:03.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to run several vans for work and batteries were always a problem. I found that an hydrometer to check on them was very useful. It will show you exactly which cells are 'bad' and whether they could be recovered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of thing:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mighty-Max-Battery-Hydrometer-Car-Van-Motorbike-Tester-Electrolyte-Level-Density-/380991531547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mighty Max Battery Hydrometer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="F. Bloggs" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:17:11.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T19:37:52.477" Score="-1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a car yesterday. A 2009 Nissan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I noticed that water is dripping under the front passenger seat.&#xA;Is there anyone who knows what the source of the water might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Shah" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:24:10.127" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:24:10.127" Title="Water is dropping from car?" Tags="|nissan|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2015-05-09T13:19:50.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They might have been trying to save you money, but in the long run it's always best to have rotors and pads replaced at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain more, cheep rotors are very common.  What makes them cheaper? They are thinner and often softer, which means they wear faster and are easily warped.  Resurfacing them is often a waste because the process of machining them can cause them to be even more susceptible to warping.  Some mechanics are real pro's at it and others just throw it on and go have coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as pads go, at best they need to be &quot;sanded&quot; to remove any glazing.  Otherwise the pads won't grip as much and can also cause cracking which eventually will make the pad break apart. And again, if the mechanic is thorough they will take time to do this right, others may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see this process is fraught with problems, even with a lifetime guarantee you still at least have to take time to go back and then sometimes pay the labor to boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after saying all that, my advice is to always replace pads and rotors together  and use good quality parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a minute to talk a parts shop with a good reputation, they'll give the skinny and what's cheap and what is good quality for a good price!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T13:19:50.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16793" CreationDate="2015-05-09T14:50:46.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not normal for a shop to turn the rotors only and not replace the pads.&lt;/strong&gt; Maybe they thought they were giving you a price break, but now you end up going back to the shop for more work (ie: more labor to be paid). At this point, if they are worth anything as a shop, they will either have to turn the rotor again or replace them, which again, is more money. Had they done it right in the first place, you'd have paid a little more up front, but would have gained over the long haul . Your brake pads wearing out so quickly is an example of exactly what I'm talking about. Replacement pads are fairly cheap (in the grand scheme of things) and the labor charge for replacement would have already been paid had they done it on your first visit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T14:50:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16785" CreationDate="2015-05-09T16:03:21.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should you be concerned about this happening again? Yes. You haven't diagnosed or fixed the problem, so the chances of it going away with no further effort from you are very slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the car does not overheat while driving, the thermostat is probably working just fine. The two scenarios which indicate a failed thermostat are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overheating very shortly after starting the car, but no coolant leak. Heater blows hot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car does not reach operating temperature while driving, more commonly in cold weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, the most likely cause of your problem is that the radiator fans are not kicking on. With the A/C on and the car idling, the fans should kick on regularly, and on many cars at least one fan will run full time if the A/C is on. This makes it very easy to check. The causes for a fan not kicking on can be a bad fan, a bad fan relay, or a bad temperature sensor. Some cars use different sensors for the fan and the coolant temperature information sent to the ECU, but I don't know why or if your car is one which has that type of setup. The fan and relay are easily testable, so check those first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fan is kicking on as it should, you could have a partial blockage in your cooling system, a bad water pump, or worse. Start with a coolant flush and work from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T16:03:21.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2015-05-09T18:06:53.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suzuki built two stroke gasoline motorcycle engines in the 1960's, 1970's which were every bit as durable as the four stroke motorcycle engines of similar displacement being offered at the time. Suzuki built a water cooler 3 cylinder 750cc two stroke motorcycle which a service life of over 100,000 miles without rebuild was not unheard of. I have one of these in my collection. This machine is now over 40 years old with over 40,000 miles on and it still runs fine. The motor has never been opened. I crossed the continent 3 times on a Suzuki 500cc two stroke two cylinder motorcycle. I sold this same motorcycle with around 50,000 miles on it, with no internal engine work ever having been done. I sold it to a fellow who took it across the continent for a 4th time. He called me when he had finished his tour of the country on that Suzuki. His only failure being a broken speedometer cable. That's where I lost track of the machine. These machines were built using the tech of the 1950's and 1960's, The last of which was offered for sale here in the States in 1977. There really is no telling where this tech could have gone. The EPA basically having regulated it into being economically unfeasible to pursue. With today's lubricants, metals and hybrid materials, there is really no telling where two stroke gasoline engines would be today.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10427" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T18:06:53.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2015-05-09T18:22:24.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lol, I had forgot about this post :-)&#xA;I figured out finally what connector I needed: Z03FBR manufactured by Mitsubishi.&#xA;I was able to find them in Japan at this seller: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.best-sys.com/products/detail.php?product_id=92&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.best-sys.com/products/detail.php?product_id=92&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website is only in Japanese so knowing little bit of kanji would help :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bought the parts separately (the female, the male, the housing) then I just used some wire I already had at home and I manufactured the whole assembly myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: they could be found probably at any Nissan dealer in US (eg. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/24342q-connector-assy-harness-repair3p-sentra-b13-08/1990-door-door-f/fr-turn-signal-lamp-z03fbr-1993-1994-p-81395.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;courtesyparts.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3834" LastEditorUserId="3834" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T21:48:26.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T21:48:26.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T19:51:55.993" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car idle up at the light, then cut off. It will not start at all now when I turn the key. There is no sound. I had the battery checked and it's good. I have a new alternator and I checked all fuses. They said it could be my starter or ignition switch. How can I find out which one it is. 1997 Buick Regal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T22:05:10.327" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:10:03.053" Title="Car will not start" Tags="|starting|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16800" CreationDate="2015-05-09T22:09:58.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem more than likely is the drain tube for the A/C unit is plugged. Where this drains from becomes filled up after a bit of use from the A/C and has no place to go, so drains into the passenger side of the cabin. To fix this, you need to find the drain tube. This is usually located on the passenger side of the vehicle by the firewall (usually underneath the A/C condenser box), and can only be seen from underneath. Once you locate the tube (should be rubber-ish), get a long piece of wire (an unbent coat hanger can work wonders here) and stick it up into the tube. You need anywhere from 10&quot; to 24&quot; of wire. When you poke through the blockage you know. Usually there will be a large amount of water come out of the tube and hit you in the face, so don't be surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T22:09:58.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-09T22:10:27.173" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, we purchased 2010 Ford Taures Limited.  We live on a gravel road &amp;amp; must drive on it for approximately 2 miles before we hit pavement.&#xA;The drier the road becomes, the dustier it is.  This dust is coming in under all 4 doors; it is worse under the back doors.  The trunk seems unaffected.  The rubber gaskets on the bottom of the doors appear to be in good shape - no tears or holes.&#xA;Is there any kind of stripping or flasing that could be attached to the body of the car to prevent the dust from coming into the car!&#xA;Thanks for any help or suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10431" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T22:16:52.013" Title="Dust Under the Doors" Tags="|ford|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16810" CreationDate="2015-05-09T22:16:52.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seals may be worn or &lt;em&gt;deflated&lt;/em&gt; (not as puffy as they used to be) and are allowing the dust to come through. As a fix, you could try something (vs replacement) I saw on a TV show recently. They added a slender piece of rubber inside of the seal to make it stick out more. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BsCo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from zoro.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is 1/4&quot; tubing. The seal should have an air gap inside of it which you can stuff this down. You'd have to find the end of the seal to accomplish this. You may need to lube it up a little as well. If you cannot find an end where you can stuff it into, you may need to create an end with a sharp razor blade. If you take this route, make sure you have some good super glue around to mend the pieces back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T22:16:52.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16807" CreationDate="2015-05-09T22:20:14.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to bench test the starter to see if it is the issue, though I doubt it is considering the car cut off them wouldn't restart. The starter will help the engine get started, but once it's started, has nothing to do with how it runs. I would be looking at the ignition switch, but more than likely you'll have to take it somewhere to have it diagnosed. There is just about no way we could help you get it diagnosed over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T22:20:14.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T00:00:05.260" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my 2007 Suzuki Forenza in for regular maintenance to replace timing belt, nothing was wrong with it. I was just following suggested time to change. They changed it and the water pump, but put belt on too loose and it edged around one of the pulleys and melted it off and ruined the engine. They replaced engine w/ a used engine at their cost and put a new belt one...however, it was misfiring and leaking oil and getting really hot, so I took it back and they said it needed a new valve cover bc they think it was cracked??? so then it continued leaking oil and sucking the radiator run off tank dry constantly. A friend of mine who is a mechanic said it looks to be a warped head and it would constantly need a new valve covers and he said it is a bad engine and needs to be replaced. So, I took it back and they replaced the valve cover again and said it is fine. However it is overheating and smoking heavily...I just do not think it is safe to drive. I would appreciate any advice on how to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10432" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T21:27:26.977" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T21:27:26.977" Title="2007 Suzuki Forenza motor" Tags="|engine|suzuki|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:43:38.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T00:45:37.630" Score="3" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Just wondering if anyone can help on this subject before I give up and sell it for spares!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My VW golf (2002) had battery problems where I was going out to start the car and it would attempt to start but that was it and then the alarm would keep going off until the car was jumped. The battery was only a few months old so went back to where I got it and had it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then the electrics started to go, started off with the doors not locking/unlocking as usual, only some at a time but eventually they would all lock after clicking the fob several times. I then noticed less and less were working and I had to manually lock the driver door. I then noticed my mirrors wouldnt work and all the windows apart from driver.&#xA;I went out to my car the following day and turned the key.. there was nothing what so ever.. it didnt even attempt to start. A mechanic came out and connected his battery charger and my car started, battery was at first 4% but fully charged after running for a while, he took the car anyway for diagnostics. He drove it back the day after and said the battery is fine as it started the following day but my central locking/fob/windows/mirrors have gone and will cost more to fix than the car is worth. Do you think this is right? or could it be key related? if I got a new key is it likely to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went out to start the car the following day, started no problems.. left it running for a while. Today I have gone out and it is  lifeless once again - not attempting to start. &#xA;I dont know anything about cars to be honest so any help would be really really helpfull! Do you think the car has had its day and time to say goodbye?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10283" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T13:47:11.157" Title="My 2002 vw golf keeps dying?" Tags="|electrical|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12618" CreationDate="2015-05-10T03:28:12.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. I just managed to soft it. There may be a few causes to this, but for my case, I found that the idling air intake hose connecting the lower part of the throttle body was missing the hose clamp. Due to this, during idling, additional air were being sucked in via the small gap between the hose and the throttle body. I think the guy who did the maintenance last time didn't put it back. I've installed a hose clamp and it seems to be back to normal idling RPM now. Hope this help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T03:44:13.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T03:44:13.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12618" CreationDate="2015-05-10T09:29:51.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular problem was solved by replacing the coolant temperature sensor and installing a thermostat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the coolant temp sensor was telling the engine it was -20C and so it was running extremely rich and was artificially raising the idle.  After replacing that the fuel mileage got much better, but it was still running a bit high, and when I hooked it to a scanner I saw the engine temp was never getting above about 65C.  Upon inspection I discovered that the previous owner had removed the thermostat.  After installing a 82C thermostat the average operating temp got up to about 85C - 90C, &lt;strong&gt;but surprisingly installing the thermostat had no effect on the gas mileage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that it ran fine during the winter, and then started having a rough idle / stalling at stop lights problem once the ambient temperature outside got above about 15 - 20 C.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/16670/7132&quot;&gt;I've posted a separate question about that here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T09:29:51.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T10:58:25.890" Score="3" ViewCount="1179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 05 Mustang base V6 auto. Headlights won't stay on. Sometimes high beam works. Everyday it's different. Last night when the fans turned on the lights would come on the off again when the fans turned off. Today I can't  get them to stay on more than 2 seconds while the car is running. If the car is off they will stay on as long as you need them to. I've checked fuses and wiring. And replaced the headlight switch. While the car is running, if you turn the headlights on they will stay on for a couple of seconds then go off, turn the headlight switch off then back on they'll come back on for a couple of seconds. Also, occasionally the windows won't work, interior light and the car won't shift out of park (does this all at once) I don't know if the problem is all one thing or not. Any ideas trying to avoid the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10434" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:18:47.217" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:56:45.770" Title="05 Mustang electrical problems" Tags="|electrical|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16300" CreationDate="2015-05-10T13:02:49.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If they match, can I change size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: only slightly unless you also change your wheels.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally start with Tire Rack's excellent tire database:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SelectTireSize.jsp?autoMake=Subaru&amp;amp;autoModel=Outback%20Wagon&amp;amp;autoYear=2001&amp;amp;autoModClar=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT SIZES FOR: 2001 SUBARU OUTBACK WAGON&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that vehicle, you're looking at 225/60-16 (and they list 43 tires in that size right now).  It is possible to adjust those two first numbers slightly but it's usually not worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number is the width of the tire: too much bigger and it will rub the fender lining and look ridiculous.  Too much smaller and it will run the risk of falling off the wheels as the bead won't seat.  The second number is the aspect ratio of the tire (sidewall height : tire width).  Smaller numbers equal flatter tires while larger are rounder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either will affect the speedometer reading (so you have to adjust the first two numbers together if you'd like your speedo to read properly).  Here are some reasonable matches for &quot;plus zero&quot; sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           Side Diam Diff&#xA;           wall&#xA;           (mm) (mm) (%)&#xA;165/80R16   132 670 -2.22&#xA;175/75R16   131 669 -2.78&#xA;185/75R16   139 684  2.78&#xA;205/65R16   133 673 -1.30&#xA;215/65R16   140 686  3.52&#xA;245/55R16   135 676 -0.19&#xA;255/55R16   140 687  3.89&#xA;265/50R16   133 671 -1.85&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from that last column, there's going to be an effect on your speedo reading no matter what.  Some of the sizes are pretty close, though: 245/55-16 is an inch wider than the original equipment size and works out to a closer diameter.  However, I wouldn't be surprised if that extra inch resulted in rubbing the fender liners on a bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final number indicates the diameter of the wheel that it's going on.  That has to match.  There's no sensible way to put a 15 inch tire on a 16 inch wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T13:02:49.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16944" CreationDate="2015-05-10T13:20:03.040" Score="0" ViewCount="1231" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my friend is going at least 70 MPH the overdrive doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sometimes the overdrive doesn't work when he's going 40 MPH!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I do to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I would like to avoid going to a repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T08:46:55.587" Title="How to fix 2007 Dodge Ram Hemi Overdrive Problem" Tags="|dodge|gears|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T13:45:40.840" Score="1" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Chevy S10 w/4.3 V-6. The top radiator blew and began to overheat. I stopped and saw oil mixed with cooling fluid everywhere. I replaced the hose and thermostat, flushed the cooling system and refilled with water. It slowly began to overheat. Checked the radiator and found more oil in the system. Is it possible an intake gasket blew? It runs great, with no loss of power. Thanks, Art&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10435" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:15:23.897" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:15:23.897" Title="Oil in the cooling system on S10 V-6 4.3" Tags="|chevrolet|troubleshooting|s10|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T01:12:56.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T16:18:01.617" Score="2" ViewCount="12360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Chrysler cirrus 6cyl 2.5 24 valve multi port injection. Originally I had backed my car in and parked, then tried to start the car but only got clicking. I found out later that at that point I just needed a battery, but at the time we changed the starter instead. Once installed it would just spin and wouldn't engage the flywheel. I exchanged for another and had them bench test it and it worked. After installing it only spins still and won't engage the flywheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We went ahead and bought and installed a new battery then, but still just spins. We tried to rock the car to move the flywheel but it won't move. I removed the serpentine belt and all the pulleys move except the two the timing belt is on which of course is the ones i need to move. Car still doesn't start so it's not the ac compressor. When I took the oil filler cap off and tried to start it we looked down in there and the valves are not moving. We then put a wrench on the crank bolt and tried to turn the flywheel by hand but from what I'm told my car has too much compression for me to get it to move. I don't know. We have not checked the flywheel teeth themselves yet not have we tried to jump the starter via the solenoid .... Can this starter possibly be bad as well even though i had them test it? I don't know what else to do. Please help...I'll try any ideas!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10437" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T19:49:30.247" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T14:36:24.610" Title="2nd starter installed that is just spinning and not engaging the flywheel" Tags="|starter|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16832" CreationDate="2015-05-10T19:10:57.277" Score="0" ViewCount="1699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ELM327 Bluetooth, which I'm linking to ubuntu powered PC.&#xA;My end goal is to install a raspberry pi into the car and have it automate things like automatically opening the roof and locking the doors when the vehicle reaches a certain speed. Also, turning on the headlights would be nice(based on a light sensor connected via GPIO).&#xA;I'm attempting to follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-2/&lt;/a&gt; , but I'm stuck at the identification part. I can't seem to find a single message for each action, and transmitting the messages back into the canbus seems impossible to achieve even with the help of the command list. If there's a list of commands for the Honda Jazz 2009 it would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10436" LastActivityDate="2023-03-23T01:01:01.000" Title="CAN Bus action list" Tags="|honda|obd-ii|can-bus|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16821" CreationDate="2015-05-10T19:46:29.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the alignment of your starter is off. If the starter is too close to the flexplate, it won't engage the teeth of the starter ring, but rather run into it and just spin. If this is the case, you'll need to see how close it is and get some shims to push it away from the flexplate a little bit. This will allow the starter to fully engage it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, it could be too far away, but I doubt this is the case. Usually when it is too far away it will almost engage the flexplate, but will just grind on the starter ring. This makes a terrible racket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T19:46:29.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15593" CreationDate="2015-05-10T20:01:07.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take my jeep to a drive in wash bay. We have them out here all over in Texas. There I can hit the top with pressured water and normal soap and scrub it with a wash towel. If you can't get to a wash bay a &quot;laser-nozzle&quot; should work also. If I really need to I will bring a bristled scrub brush and dig out anything really nasty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no quick way to wash it correctly with out damaging it if you have the factory top. Washing it in an industrial washer is a bad idea as other users have suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10439" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T20:01:07.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17162" CreationDate="2015-05-10T21:18:47.480" Score="0" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Japanese manufacturer Mazda MPV 2005 and had the washing fluid tank completely empty, ie. it was not spraying anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I filled this up with a mix of window washer fluid and water, but to my surprise it was full after ca 500ml of liquid. This seems awfully little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I filled the right spot, I double checked with a range of web resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone confirm this is the correct amount or if not what to check to fill this properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Window washers do work now, however the mix is way too &quot;soapy&quot; now, as I expected to have at least 2 litre space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10441" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T13:38:59.790" Title="Mazda MPV 2005 only fits 500ml of window washer fluid" Tags="|mazda|window|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T21:33:13.960" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dodge Caravan 2000 suddenly revs at high speeds. When travelling at 70km/h, the rpm would suddenly go from 1.5k to 2-2.5k instantly and jerks afterward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really a car guy so if you guys can help me out that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10442" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T22:32:52.430" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T02:15:02.020" Title="Dodge Caravan 2000 sudden rev" Tags="|engine|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16826" CreationDate="2015-05-10T22:34:46.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your transmission is slipping or allowing the engine to rev. Once the transmission catches back up, it slams back into gear causing the jerk you are suggesting. This could easily be caused by a lack of (or low) transmission fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T22:34:46.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16829" CreationDate="2015-05-10T22:49:21.690" Score="2" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearing 200,000 miles on this car, so it's beginning to have issues here and there. The most recent being that it dies when not being driven. This car was driven on a daily basis until I went to college, and then the issue began. My parents attempted to drive it, and found it dead. Jumping it took over 30 minutes to charge the battery up, and then it got a days worth of use before the car was left alone for a few months again. This repeated several times, and each time takes far longer to jump than it should. The batter is only 7 months old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution that we have come up with is that one of the interior lights (which is burnt out) was clicked on, and is drawing power without us realizing it. We've tried clicking it off, but have no idea if that's it, the light being burnt out and all. Is there any other solution that someone more mechanically knowledgeable can think of for this situation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T01:01:32.917" Title="1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee battery issues" Tags="|battery|jump-start|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16828" CreationDate="2015-05-11T01:01:32.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a relatively high (high for a sitting vehicle) drain on the batter. One which, if the vehicle was driven every day, would not affect it, but since it is not being driven that often is enough to kill the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to do is to put a battery tender on it such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00068XCQU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one from Beltran&lt;/a&gt;. There are many different brands out there which will do the job. Basically, it will keep you battery charged without the need for having it started every so often (though it's much better for the vehicle if you start it at least once a month). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is just disconnect the battery when the vehicle is going to sit for a while. This will leave your battery without the drain on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try and figure out what the issue is, you'll need &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.delcity.net/store/5-Function-Digital-Snap!Around/p_797076.h_797077.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=aHEnkkZp&amp;amp;crid=38094426869&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwg7yqBRCu5NmlgMm6i08SJADDEudZqUEGGrpYRdLMsErh4gUS9TEOlhNlCrME0BqrPCNP8RoCiADw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an ammeter&lt;/a&gt; which can detect the draw on the battery. Once you have this around your battery lead, you can start pulling fuses until you can find where the draw is coming from and fix it from there. The ammeter will show a drop in amperage draw when you find the right fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T01:01:32.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T03:06:17.183" Score="5" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost a coolant hose going down the road and all my antifreeze was gone. I found a puddle along the road and filled my radiator back up after I fixed the hose. Will this cause electrolysis in my motor and ruin it?  I drove 80 miles with it in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10444" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:13:50.390" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:13:50.390" Title="Ditch water in radiator" Tags="|engine|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16822" CreationDate="2015-05-11T07:44:35.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong, but as far as I am aware, the bluetooth ELM327 interface only supports the OBD2 standard, so CANBUS operations aren't possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T07:44:35.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T08:25:31.223" Score="2" ViewCount="4017" Body="&lt;p&gt;ISUZU CUBIC - CITIBUS&#xA;ENGINE - 6hh1, 8300cc, 6 Cylinder, No Turbo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this Isuzu with the above description. It is mixing oil and water coolant. I did not find water in the crankcase but found oil in the radiator.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bus does not heat up. Checked the coolant and changed the seals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to know what are the possible causes of this breakdown.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10445" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T12:12:43.440" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T13:40:39.940" Title="ISUZU CUBIC mixing oil in coolant" Tags="|engine|coolant|oil-leak|isuzu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16831" CreationDate="2015-05-11T08:55:52.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly not recommended, but I don't think it will ruin it, as long as you don't leave it in for too long...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flush the coolant system thoroughly to get rid of all traces of contaminants, and refill with proper coolant - it might be worth then doing another flush a few days later if you're worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T08:55:52.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16831" CreationDate="2015-05-11T10:17:59.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electrolysis happens over time, and will not cause any damage over an 80 mile trip. People (wrongly) have used straight water in their radiator over the summer months thinking that's all they need and don't have issues until many years down the road. If you didn't worry about it and never changed it again, it would be an issue. Changing it out after an 80 mile trip will not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you have to do what you have to do. That you could MacGuyver it back together and get it back on the road is testament to you not killing anything. Get it flushed and refilled with 50/50 and you won't have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T10:17:59.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16302" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:01:05.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds at least plausible. There are two different types of stop leaks that I'm aware of. One is a silvery substance; the other has chunks of gunk suspended in some type of fluid. I've had success with both of them, but these will usually only work as a stop gap measure. The leak will usually reappear or a new leak will appear of the same nature as the first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:01:05.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16301" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:05:18.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the car might have &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; the remote. Meaning that it no longer recognizes that the remote and must relearn it (through programming or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it could just be that the remote is broken and no longer works. Do you have other remotes which work? Is there an indicator light on the remote showing it is transmitting &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; or is at least attempting to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:05:18.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16270" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:08:29.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel filter is usually in a place which doesn't suffer from getting heated up. Plus it has fuel running through it which will help to cool it. If you think it's fuel pressure causing you issues, put a fuel pressure gauge on your vehicle and check it while running. If the fuel filter is old, go ahead and replace it as it will need it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:08:29.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16250" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:36:13.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between an air compressor and an internal combustion engine is the compressor doesn't have the heat/detonation phase which an engine does. This actually helps keep it cleaner than what you'd think. (So people don't think I'm crazy, an internal combustion engine and a compressor are both just air movers ... they just accomplish it a little differently). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a set of piston rings from an Ingersoll-Rand compressor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1O6QS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is quite different from a set of rings from an internal combustion engine. Most engines have two compression rings and an oil control pair (which consists of two oil control rings and a spacer which all three reside in a single ring groove). The compressor set (and I don't know if this is typical, but appears as though it could be), has one compression ring, an oil scraper ring, and two oil wiper (oil control) ring sets. It seems to me Ingersoll-Rand is trying to keep oil out of the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take on this is, if you are actually seeing an oil film left on the cylinder wall after the piston down stroke, the oil control rings are not doing their job. It should be almost spotless after it sweeps downward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought remains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rings on this compressor are worn out and need replaced. You would need to go through the same process of &lt;em&gt;deglazing&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;glaze busting&lt;/em&gt; the cylinder walls with a cylinder hone. Then you'd need to file fit the rings to the proper gap to ensure they don't seize in the bores during use. Then there is going to be a break-in period. I don't have the specifics on any of these for a compressor, but I'm sure they exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:36:13.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16249" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:37:21.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used it so don't know, but would assume it will continue to work after the fact. The thing I'd look at if I were you is actually getting the water out of there and putting coolant back in. When you do, I'd highly suggest you put another bottle of the sealer back in with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:37:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16843" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:40:32.617" Score="1" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day my wife was driving the car when it lost much of its power and she described loosing power on the left side of the car. To the point that she checked the tires for punctures. This was followed by a &quot;thunderous&quot; engine noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rac picked it up and could not find a fault on the computer so brought it home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now: I have looked at it today and found the following. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn it over the engine it makes a deeper sound than normal also when running in idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put it in gear and engage the clutch a metallic tapping (very loud) get progressively worse as I bring it up but only appears at the bite point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No noise when putting up in neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise seems to be coming from the centre right of the car. I thought it might be the drive shaft or one of the cv's. I inspected the right shaft and there is not excessive play. The behavior is the same with wheels on full lock or straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I did have a starter motor replaced and the gear selector adjusted very recently.(2weeks ago)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to check the other shaft now. My thought is that if it has failed then this may have caused the loss in power on the left side and where it plugs into the transmission may be the cause of the tapping in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice most welcome. I'm not an expert with cars but will generally try to fix what I can reach easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Added video - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4Iw8Pr7dl8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4Iw8Pr7dl8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10447" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T12:01:18.603" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:01:18.603" Title="02 renault scenic. Metallic tapping sound when engaging the clutch" Tags="|clutch|noise|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16203" CreationDate="2015-05-11T11:53:46.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to remove the thermostat since it's going to open when engine reaches temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it is not necessary to remove the thermostat. In fact, some cars you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want to remove the thermostat while running the vehicle. The reason for this is that the thermostat can be used to direct coolant flow. If it is out, parts of the engine may not be getting coolant as designed. You do want to run it until the thermostat is open, though. This will ensure a proper flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In case I am not able to locate these two bolts, Is that a strictly necessary step since hopefully as water runs through the system the engine block coolant should be pushed out by the water eventually correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think it would be completely necessary, but it would make the process &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt;. It also helps to remove any sediment which may be trapped in the engine block. By removing any sediment, you'll allow the engine to cool at a better efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I just leave the funnel in the radiator at all times while doing this process and keep adding water until it comes out clean and this way I do not have to hustle with closing radiator cap, then waiting for it to cool down each time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have the radiator cap on the radiator when running it up to temperature. This keeps the fluid &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the radiator. As the coolant in the system heats up, it will have a tendency to create steam. When this steam forms, it will want to push the coolant out of the system. With the radiator cap off of the system, it will overflow, causing an environmental mess, if you're not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will these 2 gallons fill the overflow reservoir tank as well if I pour them through the radiator cap? Or do I have to fill the overflow tank separately? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to what I just read, the cooling system capacity, including the overflow tank, is 8 7/8 quarts. The &quot;7/8ths&quot; would seem to me to be the amount needed for the overflow, so, no, the two gallons you have would not be quite enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:53:46.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16841" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:00:12.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your clutch is dead.&lt;/strong&gt; You'll need a new one. I'm not sure why this would appear to your wife as one side or the other having more power. The noise in the video is the clutch being metal on metal. More than likely, the clutch friction disk material is gone, causing the pressure plate/flywheel to rub against the rivets on the friction disk. Unless you have an engine hoist (cherry picker), this will incur a trip to the mechanic to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:00:12.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16862" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:44:27.290" Score="8" ViewCount="2838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a MAH-112-C-4 relay that is supposed to be capable of working as a relay for  fog light, head light, battery control, oil pumb control, fan control, air conditioner, harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPIip.png&quot; alt=&quot;MAH-112C Relay&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDZCu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a flange on it with a 5.2mm hole but the relay specification does not state what screw should be used.  The fact that the relay can be placed in a number of positions makes me suspect that there is a standard type of mounting bracket and screw in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if such a standard exists and if so what type of screw would fit the brackets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="9194" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T10:12:47.110" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T10:12:47.110" Title="Standard mounting screw for vehicle relay" Tags="|electrical|relay|screw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16261" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:47:50.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhausts inside the car is not healthy at all. As someone said, perhaps another mechanic should be considered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the problem, it sounds like the exhaust pipe is leaking before the catalytic converter. The engine light would likely light up because of this, since the Lambda (Oxygen) sensor in the converter would be receiving less exhausts (and more oxygen) than expected. As Nelson says in the comments, a leak after the catalytic converter would not be detected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if that's the case on an S80, but many cars have a &quot;flexible hose&quot; kind of construct between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe which can leak without visible holes. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLNRY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ascertain where the leak is, look under the hood, around the front wheels and under the car when running. Try plugging the rear end of the exhaust and see if a pressure is built up, if the exhaust system is okay it should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:47:50.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2203" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:50:26.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001QIUGVI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Innova Equus 3160&lt;/a&gt;. It reads both air bag (SRS) and anti-lock brake (ABS) system codes, plus provides live data of the vehicle. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004OOJ9RI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;other brands&lt;/a&gt; out there as well, though I don't know how well those work. The Equus one I have works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=bluetooth+OBD-II+srs+abs+scan+tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bluetooth options&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure how well they work, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these are options available, there may be better options out there. Just letting you know you do have options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:50:26.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:56:34.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt there is a standard. Most screws of this type are tapered  metal screws which will fit the mounting hole. Every manufacturer could use a different screw, depending on the depth needed and what they were able to get cheapest. All it has to do is hold the relay in place, which means the head of the screw needs to be larger than 5.2mm. That is, of course, if they use a screw at all. Most common relays don't have the tab in question and don't get mounted that way. Instead, they utilize the friction of the tabs and socket to hold it tight for a lifetime of worry free operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:56:34.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:57:58.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any standard mounting that uses the screw fixing - generally standard mounts for relays are of the socket type, that the pins on the bottom fit in to, similar to that in the fuse-box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:57:58.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16864" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:09:30.123" Score="3" ViewCount="4463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be be able to immobilize a vehicle.  The use case is for theft prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All along I have been thinking in terms of disabling the starter relay, as discussed here, &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16534/current-from-key-to-solenoid-of-starter-motor-relay&quot;&gt;Current from key to solenoid of starter motor relay&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;, however a relatively high current carrying capacity is required which makes the control difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I were to disable the fuel pump instead.  Does anyone know what are the pros and cons of immobilizing the fuel pump versus the starter relay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T17:59:27.003" Title="Immobiliser starter relay versus fuel pump relay" Tags="|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16849" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:40:35.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you immobilize the starter motor, then the start motor wont run, so even if you put the vehicle in gear there will be no movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you disconnect the fuel pump, the starter might start and run, if you engage the gear (depending on the vehicle) it may move a little distance too.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please provide little more details on the use case for immobilizing... based on that we can suggest better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T15:37:27.597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:37:27.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:40:37.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be a possible alternator failure. You can check the battery voltage. It should be ~12V when not working and ~14ish on idle. This kind of faulty alternator causes something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T15:38:54.907" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:38:54.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16856" CreationDate="2015-05-11T14:44:05.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new 2015 Ford F-150 and am wondering if this rust is common to the central Texas area?  Is this anything I should try to fix? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pyxfX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10403" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:42:00.850" Title="Is this rust on a new truck's underside normal?" Tags="|ford|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T15:09:18.720" Score="1" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm noticing quite a bit of rust on my strut and near the mounts, and I was thinking about doing this myself. So when I dig into the service manual, and possibly ordering parts, I found a not so nice problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently there are 2 type of strut mount, and when I brought the car in to a dealer, gave them the VIN, they said the system didn't offer to tell them which exact one is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell which one is which without actually taking the shock out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/a/Toyota_2004_Echo1500CC-16-VALVE-DOHC-EFI--MANUAL3-DOOR/_50018_5910166/Front-spring--shock-absorber/481697-4803-112410.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota Parts Direct&lt;/a&gt; diagram shows Type A and Type B, and there is a hole near the front bolt, which suggests that it's a Type B. But I would like a second opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T00:16:21.610" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T01:20:49.613" Title="'04 Echo shock mounts, Type A vs Type B" Tags="|toyota|suspension|echo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T15:19:12.013" Score="2" ViewCount="3252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '04 Echo that had the sway bar link replaced. However, a new annoying sound has developed. It usually happens when I'm starting from a dead stop, or going over bumps at low speeds. The sound is quite similar to when the links were completely disintegrated, but not nearly as frequent and without the swaying on the highways...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I swapped out the snow tires, I tried to jiggle the tire, tie rod ends, the sway bar link, but didn't notice anything. I figure it could be that the links needs to be retightened, and the passenger side is a bit looser than spec, but that didn't cure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be wrong? When I took a look at the manual, sway bar bushings looks like a very difficult job...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T15:18:06.293" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:18:06.293" Title="Clicking noise when starting from low speed, going over bumps" Tags="|noise|suspension|echo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16852" CreationDate="2015-05-11T15:42:00.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rust your photo depicts is normal for the steel components on any vehicle.  New or used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go review the undersides of new vehicles at a car lot and see that many will show rust right off the delivery truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the cast steel components will show signs of iron oxide anywhere in the country.  Oxygen and Iron is all that it really takes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T15:42:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16860" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:12:21.717" Score="8" ViewCount="50994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving (well standing still actually) during rush hour, and I was suddenly wondering what would happen to a car engine when I would push the accelerator pedal all the way down while the engine is not in gear. Since most equipment these days is made pretty idiot proof I expect it wouldn't just blow up from the extreme RPM, but what would happen? Are there any detrimental effects? Can an engine survive these extreme RPMs, or is there a fail safe and would it just shut off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I understand this isn't really a car repair question, but from all the SO sites I think this one would be the correct one to get some insights in this question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10451" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:14:34.897" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T07:32:34.593" Title="What happens to a car engine when giving max throttle while not in gear" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16859" CreationDate="2015-05-11T16:24:27.047" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RPMs would certainly increase but the mechanical components would be prevented from exceeding maximum RPMs by a rev-limiter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rev-limiters are built into the ECU (computer) of the car.  When an engine is spinning at its maximum RPM set by the manufacturer, the ECU will not send a spark to particular cylinders to prevent the engine from spinning faster and potentially damaging itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a rev-limiter were not in place the engine would have a high likely-hood of experiencing valve to piston contact.  Valve to piston contact occurs when the valve cannot close quickly enough to get out of the way of the piston on an upstroke.  The result is catastrophic with a hole being punched in the top of the piston by the lingering valve.  Results of this type of failure will vary.  Imagine loose bits of aluminum and steel flying around inside of an engine at or beyond its maximum RPMs and you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to modern cars with rev-limiters.  Older vehicles will not have this self-protection device.  I defer to an expert with more information regarding when rev-limiters began to be implemented by the manufacturers to edit this answer with some of that information and remove this paragraph. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="7326" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T02:28:06.873" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T02:28:06.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:14:28.857" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine won't turn over and there is no radio or power windows.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the connection with these three things all at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the coil and starter.  Checked fuses, relays, etc.  It acts like it wants to start.  Motor fires but won't turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10452" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:10:00.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:10:00.967" Title="No power situation - 1990 Mercury Couger" Tags="|engine|electrical|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:24:48.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of addon relay is intended to be mounted to any convenient existing bolt that you have available. As there is no standard for what size bolts to be used in an engine bay or around the body, there is no standard size recommendation for mounting this relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will do is find an existing bracket or mount in the engine bay, then back the bolt out and stack this relay against the bracket, putting the bolt back through. You can often find a spot on the sides of the strut tower that will accommodate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind about these relays, is they are can be sensitive to water and excessive heat. Avoid mounting in &quot;splash areas&quot; and near the exhaust manifolds to prevent premature wear to the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== BONUS ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the install a little nicer you can use one of these relay sockets instead of spade terminals.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT7N96jGJKwOJMTww_H54Mb4U7kIsh-JGBEN7tXjP8QI3nTxxJj&quot; alt=&quot;Relay Socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the end of your wire and over the end of the relay socket's wire, connect the two wires with a crimp on butt splice, then slide the heat shrink tubing over the end of the splice and heat the tubing to seal it all up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10066" LastEditorUserId="10066" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:21:53.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:21:53.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16861" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:51:07.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine not turning over is related to your starter circuit or your starter relay.  If you have a good battery and your relay is functioning, you will here a clicking sound as you turn the ignition key to try and start the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power windows and radio have their own circuits, typically dedicated to the use.  Radio, circuit, window circuit, lights, etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is in good shape, you may have a main fuse issue for the overall vehicle.  Checking fuses with a multi-meter to ensure they are in working order rather than visual inspection is recommended.  I've seen fuses that appeared fine but were not when tested for continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting at the batter to ensure it's in good working order is recommended.  All of these symptoms can be attributed to a bad battery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T17:51:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16849" CreationDate="2015-05-11T17:59:27.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the relay to disable key elements of a vehicles ability to run give me pause.  Any misstep in the implementation process could lead to a failure of the pump or device critical to the vehicle continuing to run could proved to be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend using a switch or relay due to the hazard of the vehicle failing to run while driving.  A plethora of disastrous situations come to mind that I will not illiterate due to relevance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disabling the starter motor through the starter relay with a switch/relay device seems considerably safer.  If the device you insert fails, your car will not start.  Since it will not be in motion during the failure, it seems like a considerably safer route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be technically simple as you would disable the low voltage side of the starter relay and the voltage will be 12.6 volts, roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T17:59:27.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16867" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:47:25.070" Score="3" ViewCount="13252" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/DWpiOU8x7g0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I read here&lt;/a&gt; that a bad valve cover gasket can cause low engine pressure which will cause oil to be burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?  Exactly how would that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T10:11:34.137" Title="Can a Bad Valve Cover Gasket Cause Oil to be Burned?" Tags="|gasket|valve-cover|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16866" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:58:14.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the video, when they are talking about &quot;burning oil&quot;, they mean it is physically running off of the valve cover gasket and down onto the exhaust manifold, which burns outside of the engine. This happens when the gasket fails. Changing the valve cover gasket will cure this exterior seepage from occurring, which will solve this issue. This will not affect oil pressure, though if too much oil seeps out and you don't have any oil in the crankcase, this can ultimately cause your oil pressure to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a &lt;em&gt;mechanic&lt;/em&gt; talks about an engine burning oil, they are talking about oil passing by the oil control rings, causing the oil to burn &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the cylinders. This happens when an engine gets old and tired. Changing the valve cover gasket will &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; cure this interior oil usage issue. Only an engine overhaul will fix this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T18:58:14.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16859" CreationDate="2015-05-11T19:48:39.657" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While most new electronically controlled vehicles probably do have a rev-limiter built in, this doesn't mean you cannot go past the &lt;em&gt;red-line&lt;/em&gt; of the engine. The red-line is the theoretical maximum you ever want your engine to run at and is the limit at which your engine is designed to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this point one of the first bad things which occur is called &lt;em&gt;valve float&lt;/em&gt;. This can happen because the valve spring does not provide enough control of the valve to close it quickly enough. This happens very quickly and very noisily. This will limit how fast the engine can go, ultimately, but this will happen past the red-line point. While valve float can occur at these extreme engine speeds, more than likely there will not be any valve to piston contact due to the fact the engine speed will decrease as soon as this point is reached. The main reason the engine will only go so fast as valve float is reached, is because compression within the engine is decreased, which means the engine will not function as efficiently, and therefor limits its speed. Other damaging things can occur as the harmonics within the engine are thrown all out of whack due to the valve float. As the valves &lt;em&gt;do close&lt;/em&gt;, extra wear and tear can be expected on valves, valve seats, valve springs, and other valve train components. In the book &lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt; by author/racer/mechanic/genius Carroll Smith (p101), he states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simplistically put, under repeated (cyclic as opposed to continuous) stress the capacity of a metal to withstand stress gradually diminishes and, in most cases, cannot be restored. Metals which are subjected to fluctuating loads can and do break after a finite number of load cycles (of, more accurately, stress cycles) in which the loads applied and the resultant stresses imposed are always below the ultimate strength of the metal. This type of failure is termed &quot;fatigue failure.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a piece of metal, lets say the valve, will live virtually forever in the confines of the parameters it was built to survive. Go beyond that point and it dies much quicker. This is seen at a logarithmic rate: the further you go past the designed point, the faster the failure occurs. This doesn't happen all at once, but it is accumulative and builds up over time. This not only applies to the valves, but to the entire engine as a whole. Any part which exceeds its specifications will ultimately die much sooner than it would have if it had never reached its maximum design. The engine can survive going past the red-line, but it's not something which should be imposed on an engine very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads us to your original question, the fact of whether stabbing the pedal to wide open throttle (WOT) with no load on the engine will cause problems for the engine. This depends on how long you hold it there. As already established, the longer you hold it the its running maximum (whether with or without a rev limiter), the sooner the engine will die ... and have no doubt, the longer you hold it there, the sooner it will die. If you stab the go pedal and quickly release it as it reaches its maximum, the engine will probably suffer no ill effects, but you've just added made it so the engine will live that much shorter of a life span. Remember, like any good chain, it's the weakest link which determines how well it will hold. Any single piece of an engine can fail, causing the entire thing to go up in smoke. That weakest link may be the valve, connecting rod, piston, or any of the other pieces in the engine. It just takes one to fail to make it all become a useless pile of metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:48:39.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16866" CreationDate="2015-05-11T20:05:05.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;additional info&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal oil blow by might be a result of a failing piston ring and will cause( oil to burn in combustion chamber. Fouling the plugs. Also losing power. Eventually that plug will fill with oil crud. Causing a dead cylinder. You also risk scoring the cylinder walls causing piston Slap. Eventually burning up bearing. Exhaust gas blown into sump oil also ruins oil. Then you know the rest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike M&#xA;4x4 mechanic and diagnostic tech&#xA;R and R offroad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="10976" LastEditDate="2017-03-13T06:45:29.867" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T06:45:29.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:39:14.157" Score="4" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4WD 2007 Tacoma V6 manual with 6 speeds.  This model has a notorious reoccurring problem with its 3rd gear, which is due to the synchro going bad on that gear, as per many online testimonials.  The problem manifests itself on my truck by grinding when I am shifting into the 3rd gear, unless I do it super slowly keeping the clutch pressed all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to fix it and replace the synchro but would like to first gauge the level of complexity involved.  I am a fairly competent DIY mechanic who has done many different types of repairs without failures that required professional assistance.  Is this repair something that involves a special tool that only specialty shops have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T22:19:29.527" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T19:48:53.913" Title="Replacing 3rd gear synchro on a Tacoma" Tags="|toyota|transmission|gears|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16871" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:19:58.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the instructions located on this page&lt;/a&gt; will help you decide. Manual transmissions, while easier to deal with than automatics, are nothing to be trifled with. If you don't have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of mechanical know how, it's not something to be tackling on your own. If you get it apart and cannot put it back together again, a tranny shop is going to not want to take it off your hands. If you are trying to save money, the easiest thing to do is take it out of the vehicle and then take it to a shop to get done. Save you loads on labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:19:58.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16874" CreationDate="2015-05-11T23:37:52.320" Score="7" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to adapt/convert a regular floor jack to a tranny jack for the purposes of lowering the transmission assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T04:03:56.510" Title="Converting floor jack to tranny jack?" Tags="|transmission|jack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16873" CreationDate="2015-05-11T23:53:56.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;differences&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; between the floor jack and the tranny jack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tranny Jack has 4 points on a metal plate that can be adjusted to change the angle of the tranny jack and how it meets up with the transmission.  This feature is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tranny jack has a very wide stance to prevent a top heavy jack from falling over with an incredibly heavy item.  A wider base is welcome and IMO necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Notable Attributes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimum Height - Getting a tranny jack under the vehicle if you don't have a lift is key.  Minimum height can be important depending on the make of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Max Height - If your working on an F350 Powerstroke max height will be very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Challenge&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest hurdle is creating a jack that is stable.  I would only use a tranny jack, not a conversion.  I've seen trannie's fall over because the right tool wasn't used or a bunch of guys were just trying to manhandle it.  If you do a conversion I believe the adjustable plate and a solid base (on wheels) are key to success.  The height component is a clear variable that depends on the make and model of the car.  If the a tranny jack is too high at it's min height you can always put the car on jackstands.  Which, in it's own way, can also be a bit nerve racking.  I prefer to have exactly the right tool for a job like this where injury is a real possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm sure there is an auto store where you can rent one in your area.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T04:03:56.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16814" CreationDate="2015-05-12T05:27:04.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator%20/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Alternator&quot;&gt;Alternator&lt;/a&gt; might be  broken, Its the Job of the Alternator to charge up your battery whenever you drive. This is fairly common for old vehicles&quot;Dont worry&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case your alternator is new but still you are facing the same issue then probably there is something wrong with your electrical system.Usually when Rats and other creatures enter a vehicle there are chances they chew a wire and short the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put Go to a mechanic Ask him to check the Alternator and then ask him to check the wiring.I am 90% sure that will solve your issue and it will not cost much. If you want you can also DO it yourself    &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4483721-DIY-Replacing-an-alternator-on-your-2-0-ABA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;/ Fixing_Alternator&quot;&gt;Fixing Alternator For a VW_Golf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T07:07:04.803" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T07:07:04.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16807" CreationDate="2015-05-12T05:47:25.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various factors which can cause the symptoms you are stating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your car (1997) has a mechanical ignition system which is highly probable then check your ignition coil and if that is fine then check the spark plug.If your spark plugs work then clean them and check if the problem still exists.(BTW they should be brown in colour if they are dark brown or white then there is problem with your fuel injection system which can cause the spark plug to wear out soon thus causing the stall issue&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your car has an electrical Ignition system then check if the ignition coil pack has an issue and follow the same steps as above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if your Air filter is not clogged up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I am not 100% sure that the above are the cause , as Paulster said you need to check it thoroughly to know the issue give the above points a try.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T08:10:03.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:10:03.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16885" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:25:44.450" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt; - Mahindra and Mahindra MM540 (1997)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;  - Mahindra and Mahindra 540 1.9 peugeot Engine (inline-4)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Miles&lt;/strong&gt;   - ~75000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start my jeep, smoke and oily water comes out through exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the jeep wont start and it seems like there's no battery charge. If I try after few minutes, it will start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue here? How should I go about diagnosing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10458" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:06:46.827" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:06:46.827" Title="Smoke + water from exhaust while starting MM 540" Tags="|jeep|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16883" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:31:43.943" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I drive in 3rd gear its fine, but if I try to apply brakes/stop acceleration suddenly, 3rd gear slips into neutral position (Not exactly neutral) and while I try to put third gear again, it produces a sound like I am not applying clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope experts can suggest, what the problem is..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10458" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T11:41:55.400" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T11:41:55.400" Title="Gear slips MM540 while applying clutch/stop accelerating" Tags="|transmission|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:38:32.340" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;My clutch pedal had absolutely no pressure unless I would pump it, but that wouldn't do much. It finally gave out so I changed the master cylinder next to the break cylinder with one that I know works for sure. It did, but when I woke up the next day I had absolutely no pressure at all. I know I don't have a leak because there's no fluid coming out of anywhere. What are my other options that it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10459" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T11:44:28.450" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T13:26:38.273" Title="Clutch issue in 1995 Mazda Miata" Tags="|transmission|clutch|mazda|clutch-cylinder|miata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16881" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:39:57.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your brief description, it sounds like the clutch is going out of it. If you smell anything like hot brakes during clutch usage, this may be the case. Also, if the RPMs do not have a linear (engine speed and vehicle speed go up together) as you accelerate, this may be another symptom. If you have the vehicle in 3rd gear at a slower speed and press hard on the gas pedal (for a short period of time), if the engine speed goes up without gaining significant amounts of speed is what I'm talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; While rereading your post, it could also be the 3rd gear synchro is worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T11:39:57.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16880" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:53:57.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the Mahindra fires, but would suggest that your glow plugs are bad in your diesel engine. I'm not sure about the water, though. This could be an internal leak, but could also just be the byproduct of combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T11:53:57.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T13:13:05.647" Score="5" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;What fitting do I need to attach my pressure gauge (female 1/8&quot; NPT) to the port on the fuel rail? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the port is metric but I'm not sure of the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10461" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:33:17.970" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:33:17.970" Title="Fuel rail pressure port size on 1985 Porsche 911" Tags="|fuel-system|porsche|911|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15908" CreationDate="2015-05-12T13:20:54.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just thought I'd bring this in to an answer to allow it to be accepted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, while not ideal for you in this situation, is to prevent accidental connection to the wrong sensor. This solution is used in any number of applications, on ships, aircraft, even buildings - and in a car you will find many examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's one of the reasons I &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; read the manual before removing or tweaking anything in the car, even when it is as simple as part of the audio system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:20:54.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:10:29.003" Score="1" ViewCount="3565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good morning to all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Uno 1.1 Mia 2001 model. I have a problem of it not starting. One morning my wife was driving with it and some 1km from home, the car just died and did not want to start. I did check the petrol pump and it was pumping ok. So I checked for spark, no spark. I thought it could be the ignition module because I know it gives problems, I replaced it. Still nothing. So I changed the coil, still no spark. So now I don't know. I am all out of ides. It does crank but just don't want to start but when I turn the ignition key from on to the  off position it sparks but only once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T14:36:42.220" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T22:32:04.347" Title="Non-starting Uno" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8667" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:13:05.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that your power steering pump is done or it might be the entire rack-and-pinion is shot as well. Power steering should be happening now at a stand still, not when you are moving. In fact, while you are moving, it may feel there is power steering because the wheels will move left to right and back much easier without the assist of power steering. It could be that the valve in the R&amp;amp;P which tells the fluid to assist is bad. If so, it won't divert the hydraulic fluid as needed to make the assist possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:13:05.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9451" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:20:34.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing which I can think of which might be making any noise is the clutch itself. When you get to 5th gear, which I believe is an overdrive gear in the Ranger, you are applying a lot more torque at the clutch. If it wasn't bedded correctly, it could be slipping in this higher gear, thus causing the noise you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:20:34.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12187" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:24:47.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seriously, $700 would not even start to fix this issue. This is probably $10-15,000 worth of work there ... easily. If the car was in perfect shape, it would only be worth $5,000 at the outside. My suggestion to you is, treat this as a throw away car and drive it until the wheels fall off. Save your money and purchase something which will actually be something which will last. It just doesn't make sense to throw good money after bad trying to fix something which isn't going to be worth it in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to shut down the rust for the mean time, clean up the affected areas with a wire brush, then coat with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POR-15&lt;/a&gt;. Since the stuff is black anyway, it should blend in with the paint to an extent, and should keep it from getting worse, though it will degrade over time in the sunlight, so recoats maybe necessary. Should hold the rust at bay for a few years until you can buy something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:24:47.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16888" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:37:57.953" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is battery fully charged and working? 'One spark only' sounds like a discharged battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T20:13:21.813" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:13:21.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16886" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:44:06.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that NPT is a US standard for pipes and fittings. There is a Wikipedia page showing different conversions of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread#Table_of_standard_sizes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NPT standard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T16:54:32.297" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T16:54:32.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16888" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:45:00.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;td dr&lt;/strong&gt; - I'm thinking your timing belt might be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not too familiar with the Uno Mia's 1.1l engine, but would assume from the size it is a 3-cylinder engine. It should be an overhead cam design, with the distributor hung off the side of the valve cover. If all of this is true, pop the oil filler cap and have a look to see if you can see the cam shaft or at least some of the working internals of the head. If so, have someone crank the engine while you are looking. If the internals do not move, the timing belt is most likely toast. With the distributor stuck on the end of the cam shaft, if the cam shaft isn't spinning, you won't get any spark from the spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the timing belt is in good stead, it could be the ignition control module (ICM) which picks up the timing signals and sets the ball in motion for the spark to occur. This would be harder to determine. Some ICMs can be checked at the parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T16:26:24.557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T16:26:24.557" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16760" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:55:30.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the wire is mounted incorrectly at the points.  There is an insulator where the wire in connected. Make sure the wire is connected to the points spring arm, and not to the base or mounting hole. If it is connected there it will be grounded all the time and will never produce spark at the coil. To check this, disconnect the wire and turn on the key.  Hold the coil wire near ground and touch the points wire to ground briefly. If you get spark the problem is within the point/connection. The other way to check is to check for battery voltage at both sides of the coil with the key on and the wire removed. If you have voltage on both sides of the coil, the issue is with the points, and probably with the wire installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:55:30.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16900" CreationDate="2015-05-12T17:02:47.837" Score="10" ViewCount="68367" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin told me when he enter his car, he put the key to ignition then count to 3 and start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason of him doing that is to give enough time to fluids (I'm not sure which one) to fill to the engine (I'm skeptic, need more info on this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He told me that in &lt;em&gt;&quot;ze good ol'days&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, car would sometimes fail to start if you directly turn the key to start engine and that even if they does start now, it is still better for the engine to wait a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems logical (although I doubt it's really something we should matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is it better to wait a few seconds at ignition position before starting the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T15:02:45.367" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T15:02:45.367" Title="Should we wait a few seconds before starting the engine?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2015-05-12T19:03:51.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is illegal and totally dangerous to drive the car like that. Regardless of how small the spring break is. Its broken - it now affects the entire suspension, handling in that case, steering and brakes. Life is more important. Yours and everybody else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10465" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T20:12:33.797" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:12:33.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16897" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:33:38.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only type of vehicle you need wait on is a diesel powered one. The reason for that is you need to wait (in most of them) for the glow plugs to heat the combustion chamber. Modern fuel injected cars will keep their fuel pressure after shutdown. It will stay there (usually) for a good 24 hours (&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; 24 hours is an approximation. It will take longer in some cars and less time in others for the fuel pressure to bleed off back into the fuel tank). When you turn the key on, the fuel pump will start running. This happens as fast as you turn the key. Oil doesn't start flowing until the engine is actually running, so if you tried to wait for that, you'd be waiting a lot longer than three seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with non-fuel injected cars there are no worries. In many older non-fuel injected cars, fuel pressure is not delivered until after the engine is turning over, so no sense in waiting for this to happen either. Cars with carburetors will continue to have fuel in their fuel bowls, so has a ready supply of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, I guess is this: it doesn't hurt anything to wait the three seconds, but you aren't creating any issues by not waiting. There will be no long term effects from starting it right after key insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T11:41:19.960" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T11:41:19.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16901" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Device used in the ignition system to limit the rotations per minute (RPM) or engine speed. In newer electronically controlled powertrains, this can be done through programming of the powertrain control unit/module (PCU/PCM). The RPM is preset and will not allow the engine to go past this point. One way it can limit this by cutting the spark output to certain cylinders at certain times, which will not allow the engine to rev any higher. This helps protect the engine from accidental damage caused from stresses it was not intended to withstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16902" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" Score="0" Body="Device used in the ignition system to limit the rotations per minute (RPM) or engine speed." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:50:19.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16903" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Company founded in 1916 when Tokyo Ishikawajima Shipbuilding and Engineering Co., Ltd. in cooperation with the Tokyo Gas and Electric Industrial Co. to build automobiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1972, Isuzu entered into an agreement with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;General Motors Corporation&lt;/a&gt; when GM bought a 34% stake in Isuzu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isuzu has many subsidiaries and joint ventures throughout the world, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghandhara_Industries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghandhara Industries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guangzhou_Automobile_Group_Bus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guangzhou Automobile Group Bus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HICOM_Automotive_Manufacturers_(Malaysia)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HICOM Automotive Manufacturers (Malaysia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isuzu_Astra_Motor_Indonesia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isuzu Astra Motor Indonesia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isuzu_Commercial_Truck_of_America,_Inc.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isuzu Commercial Truck of America, Inc.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Powertrain_Poland&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GM Powertrain Poland&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and many others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16904" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" Score="0" Body="A Japanese automotive company which produces mainly automotive and commercial vehicles and diesel engines." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:12:06.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16905" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compact pick-up truck and Sports Utility Vehicle (SUV) produced by General Motors based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_GMT_platform#GMT_325.2F330&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GMT325/330&lt;/a&gt; platforms. It was produced in North America from 1982–2004 and in Brazil from 1995 to present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S10 has had three generations of builds. The first generation running from 1982 to 1993. The second generation running from 1994 to 2004 (2012 in Brazil). The third generation applies only to Brazil where the S10 is a rebadged Colorado/Canyon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The S10 shares body styles/platform with GMC (Sonoma/S15/Jimmy) and Isuzu (Hombre). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16906" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" Score="0" Body="Compact pick-up truck and SUV produced by General Motors." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:32:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:07:02.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to get your own hand held and diagnose this yourself. You can pick up various ones for $30-$2000 (if you really want to pay that much). The lower costing ones are Bluetooth designed to work with your smartphone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too am doubting the voracity of this problem being a fried ABS ECU, mainly because in some vehicles, a brake light can cause the ABS light to come on. Until you get the codes from the ABS read, you are really in the dark about it. Getting an OBDII scantool with ABS and SRS diagnostic features is a must for any DIY toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:07:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:10:03.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP did some googling and found there should be an enclosure, which explains it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thealfaforums.com/alfa-romeo-156/4385-156-pollen-filter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the link for anyone else having the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This answer was added from what the OP edited into the question. Adding it here to actually answer the question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:10:03.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4014" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:22:33.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears your only choice if you want to do it yourself is to purchase the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buyobdtool.com/wholesale/nissan-consult-3-plus-nissan-consult-3-nissan-diagnostic-tool.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Consult III plus&lt;/a&gt;, which will do the job on all Nissan, Infinity, and GTR vehicles. This is not a cheap option, but if you need to do it for several, the cost investment may be overcome very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:22:33.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2015-05-12T22:59:57.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was noted in the comments, the problem is probably that there is a &lt;em&gt;key&lt;/em&gt; in the splines and the pulley which needs to be aligned in order for it completely fit onto the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is not your piece, it will show you exactly what I'm talking about. The splined area has a keyed area which is visible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTDIb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft will have one which is opposite (one will protrude as a large spline, the other will be a larger groove for that spline) of what is on the&#xA;pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:59:57.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5357" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:20:10.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr -&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously, if you are losing all your oil in a month (or so) time frame, &lt;em&gt;it's a bad thing&lt;/em&gt;. You need to discover where you are leaking or using the oil and get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only two ways you are going to be missing oil out of the engine: 1) oil leak; 2) burning oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you say you only saw a small amount of smoke coming from the engine compartment, I'd suggest you are not burning oil. I think the smoke you are talking about is probably because of excess heat buildup due to the lack of oil in the engine (more on this subject in a minute). When the engine heated up well past normal, any oil on the exterior of the engine (due to leakage) will have started to burn off, causing the smoke. If the engine was burning the oil internally, you'd be seeing voluminous amounts of smoke coming out of the tail pipe, especially considering the amount of time it took for the oil to go away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger problem here is that you are more than likely losing oil by leakage. Either through a blown seal or a bad gasket somewhere. You may have lost all of your oil at once, which, after you poured in the new amount of oil, should be self-evident where the leak is at, because the new oil will probably be leaking out as well. Look under the car and see where the issue resides. It shouldn't be too hard to self-diagnose and get it to a shop and have them do the work (if you don't feel qualified to do it yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the follow-up to what I was talking about above. The reason you could only go 40mph in your car was that the engine didn't have lubrication, which means it was struggling to maintain the speed you wanted. As the lube is depleted, the engine is running with less and less of the slick stuff it needs to keep going. Had your trip been any longer, the likelihood the engine would have seized is more than a probability, but would quickly have become a reality. There is no doubt there is &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; level of bearing damage done while running it without the oil in it. &lt;em&gt;How much&lt;/em&gt; can only be determined by a complete tear down (which I'm not suggesting at this point). Just know that the engine's ultimate longevity has been shortened by this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:20:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5494" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:33:33.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, I don't thing the problem resides in the distributor, but in the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It either needs to be replaced or it needs to be cleaned and adjusted. Be careful when removing/cleaning/adjusting, as the gears inside are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fragile. It doesn't take much to push the plunger in and cause an issue. I believe the main shaft is on a screw, so you can adjust it by turning it clockwise/counterclockwise. If you just push it it, the gears inside will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:33:33.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:55:19.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have spade fuses, you can use one of these [spade fuse taps](fuse spade tap) to get your power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZZ4k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fits over the blade on the fuse, then you push the fuse down into its normal position in the fuse panel. You can connect the other end to a grounding point. To find one look for a metal nut or a bolt in the vicinity of your fuse panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do connect it, ensure you do two things. First, make sure you are pulling power from before the fuse and not &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the fuse you are using. This will ensure you are not drawing more power than the fuse can handle. Second, use an inline fuse to support your equipment. This will protect the car and the equipment should there be a shorting issue going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:55:19.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8521" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:03:31.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this means the regulator is going out of the alternator, but not sure. The code I saw for a 94 Jeep says, &quot;Fault in the charging system or no field current.&quot; Could be several things, but thinking you need to get your alternator load tested. I believe an AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly, or Advanced Auto can do this for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be that the field wire (goes from battery to the back of the alternator ... should be red) may not be connecting correctly. Check this on both ends for any type of corrosion. Also ensure this wire doesn't have any bulges in it (fat areas in the wire). If you see this, it's a bit of corrosion building up inside the wire and will cause enough resistance to subside the flow of electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:03:31.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:06:48.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be that the glow plug relay is going out. If it is intermittent, the glow plugs will heat sometimes and other times not. I don't know if this is a known issue with BMW diesels, but it is plausible this is your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:06:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9133" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:16:35.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the car started fine after the first try, there should be nothing to worry about. The thing to remember is: different car; different situation. If it continued not to want to start, then you'd have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:16:35.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9171" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:17:39.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to easily find the return line. There are two lines which should be going to your power steering pump. One would be the high pressure side going out to the steering rack. It will have pressure fittings on it. The return side is low pressure and will be attached to the pump via a hose clamp. An alternative to this would be if there is a separate reservoir from the pump. Here, the return line should be towards the top of the reservoir and feed towards the bottom of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:17:39.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9356" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:27:50.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the problem is a leaky valve cover gasket. It's just something which happens over time. The old one becomes hard and cracks, thus oil starts dripping. Over time, this collects on the different parts with whatever amount of dirt is available and, voila! You have gunk all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is thoroughly clean the affected area with heavy duty degreasing agent and plenty of elbow grease. Whatever you can chisel off with a putty knife before you start with the degreaser. This will save you a lot of cleaning and make less of a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T00:27:50.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T01:46:09.040" Score="1" ViewCount="9750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be doing a bit of heavy towing with my truck. Up to and sometimes over its rated weights (approx 7000lbs). What can I do to add the necessary power and transmission performance that I'm going to need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10467" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:16:36.453" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:16:36.453" Title="Heavy Towing 2007 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|transmission|towing|avalanche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-05-15T00:07:49.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16440" CreationDate="2015-05-13T08:34:51.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having finally had the frame on my Yamaha 750 Super Tenere, straightened on a jig and re-welded, I have some info from the guys who did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two methods they use are tension - pulling using chains, and pressure - hydraulically forcing the frame to conform to a template.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For minor deformation, it's a relatively safe bet with modern (and reasonably old frames) that steel will cope. Obviously certain more exotic materials won't - it's down to malleability and brittleness; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.physics.uwo.ca/%7Elgonchar/courses/p2800/Chapter6_Mechanical_Handouts.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;science of elastic and plastic deformation of metals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Welds are more likely to be brittle than structural members, but are more replaceable, so a crash that has snapped joints may actually be easier to recover than one where the members have all suffered major bends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the various angles, welds, cross members etc in a frame, they don't rely on any actual maths to identify whether it will be recoverable - they rely on experience. A major crash may be an obvious no-no, and a very minor dunt may be obviously easy, but that dividing line is tricky - and they work on a scale of more or less likely...and then just try it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T08:34:51.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2015-05-13T08:58:03.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two things are entirely unrelated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - this is normal. When you press the accelerator, there are a number of things that have to happen - more fuel to the cylinders, spark timing change, valve timing changes etc. and this takes some time to have an effect. If you had a turbocharged car you would notice a much greater lag, as there is a huge dependency on air input, which is reliant on exhaust pressure, which rises after you press the accelerator. At certain speeds in my car (heavily tuned turbocharged Subaru) this can be a quarter of a second lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - this is also relatively normal, especially in older cars, and should only be a worry if it starts to get really loud or is combined with a failure to steer or 'bumpy' steering. Your steering pump works better once hydraulics have warmed up - when cold the pump just has to work harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T08:58:03.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16919" CreationDate="2015-05-13T11:38:59.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - Upgrade to a 2500 or 2500HD pick-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several issues you'll notice when hauling at the maximum and over the maximum of the towing capacity of the Avalanche. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the 2007 &amp;amp; 2008 MYs came with the 4L60e transmission. Why GM ever put these in a pickup truck is beside me. These were meant to go into passenger cars. While they are supposedly supposed to be able to handle 400 lb ft of torque, when you throw them with a huge load, they tend to fail rapidly. The only cure for this is to get a 3/4 ton pick-up with the 4L85e which can handle the heavy loads. This doesn't mean the 4L60e will expire on the first load, it just means it will fail a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; faster with consistent towing. Starting in 2009, the Avalanche came with the 6L80e, which could also handle the loads. The only alternative is to actually modify your truck with the a 4L85/90e or 6L80e transmission. GM finally decided the 4L60e wasn't going to cut it for their pick-ups (after a lot of customer complaints), so put the beefier transmissions in the rigs to support towing a lot better. Please note, if your Avalanche is a 4wd vehicle, this adds a whole other complexity to getting this done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle is going to be pulling any hills, the 5.3L engine will just not have enough torque. You will be lugging up the hills in 2nd gear driving at 35mph. This can be overcome by putting a larger engine (6.0L or newer 6.2L), which will have a better torque curve and plenty of power. There are also head/cam packages which could be added to your 5.3L, but it costs money either way. Another option is to put a supercharger on the stock 5.3L. As long as you don't go crazy, you can boost your engine without too much of an issue, but the life expectancy of the engine will go down, so be prepared. Don't forget you'll need to have the engine control module tuned for the specific setup as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also need to ensure the rear differential is at least a 4.11:1 ratio drive. If you have the 3.73:1 or (heaven forbid) 3.42:1 ratios, your in for some mighty arduous towing. Again, if this is a 4wd model, you'll have to do work on the front end as well as the back end for the gear change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing you need to worry about is to ensure you can actually stop the vehicle and the trailer. This is one of the areas most overlooked. One of the issues is, if what you're towing exceeds the weight of the vehicle towing it, stopping becomes an issue. You'd need to ensure there are excellent trailer brakes and a trailer brake controller installed in your vehicle. This will help control the vehicle and trailer, but depending on the load would still be worrisome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, this might seem doable. With all of the upgrades, you are still looking at dropping a ton of money into a vehicle when in reality you'd be better off just getting a more robust vehicle to do the job. The upgrades I've laid out here are not exhaustive, just what I've come up with off the top of my head. If you are not able to do the work yourself, it's going to cost some money to make it happen. IMHO, if you want to do this, you should trade your pick-up in on a 3/4 ton truck or maybe even a 1 ton. Your pocketbook will thank you with greater safety of yourself, your passengers, and cargo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T11:38:59.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16882" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:11:39.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the answer was to bleed the master/slave hydraulics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:11:39.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:49:22.060" Score="2" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the shaft seal (4th element on the schematic) in my power steering pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: How do I remove triangular element of power steering pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDaoA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y19PG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:04:46.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:04:46.430" Title="Replace shaft seal in power steering pump" Tags="|power-steering|seal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T08:21:09.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:50:14.213" Score="1" ViewCount="4384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Want to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;attach some hooks on the inside of my car, so I can hang stuff on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inside of my car consists of hard plastic panels. But when I try to get a screw in them, it gets lose very quickly because of the thickness of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue is another option, but that seems so permanent. If I should ever want to remove the hook again, then it can be  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you attach &quot;stuff&quot; to the plastic panels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10470" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T17:04:56.980" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:24:16.610" Title="I want to attach some hooks inside my car" Tags="|diy|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:17:28.077" Score="2" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;'04 Cavalier.  The converter outlet coupling failed - the bolts broke,&#xA;and the bolt holes in both flanges are pretty much useless.  Given the&#xA;age of the car, and the cost of replacing all the components, I&#xA;thought to use a couple of split flanges instead.  But, I'm having a&#xA;lot of trouble finding the right sized flanges.  The original flanges&#xA;are '3-bolt', as is the gasket - &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/walker-exhaust-gasket-31369/18370047-P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/walker-exhaust-gasket-31369/18370047-P&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, finding the flanges.  The pipe measures 2&quot; O.D.  There are&#xA;a lot of 2-bolt 2&quot; split flanges, but 3-bolt ones seem rare, while other&#xA;sizes seem much more common.  Nothing local.  I did find a 2&quot; one&#xA;online &lt;a href=&quot;http://exhaustdirect.com/FFS200-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://exhaustdirect.com/FFS200-3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scarcity makes me wonder if I'm just missing something.  I&#xA;mean, it's a Cavalier - usually, anything I need is readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts/experience would be appreciated.  (Especially, if this is&#xA;just not going to work, and I should just bite the bullet and replace&#xA;the converter &amp;amp; resonator/mid-pipe.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T17:40:33.423" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T12:47:44.330" Title="Split flange for converter-resonator coupling?" Tags="|chevrolet|exhaust|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16925" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:53:47.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what is behind the panels, a bolt with wide washers could be all you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably go down the glue route myself, or possibly even fix velcro tabs to the plastic with velcro-backed hooks, but if you are wanting to hang things from them, you'll want them to be solid and either way will leave marks if you ever do decide to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T14:53:47.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16925" CreationDate="2015-05-13T16:12:38.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use something like 3M Command Utility Hooks.  They stick on but can be removed without leaving any sticky adhesive behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not hang anything more substantial than that from a plastic interior panel because those panels are usually just held on by trim clips that cannot take much weight in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="458" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:24:16.610" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:24:16.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7390" CreationDate="2015-05-13T17:32:44.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tail light fuse will be third from the left along the top row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5j1yJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;09 Tacoma fusebox&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a concise fuse diagram with full descriptions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G3Z3d.png&quot; alt=&quot;06+ Tacoma driver side j/b fusebox diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will that do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10468" LastEditorUserId="10468" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T17:45:57.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T17:45:57.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16926" CreationDate="2015-05-13T17:45:21.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to replace it the way you are suggesting, why not do it a little easier with a V-Flange split coupler. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWHxr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image pulled from Summit Racing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: This is just an example from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1488/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Summit Racing&lt;/a&gt; You can find them on eBay all day long.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each side of the split would fit, one on the cat and one on the exhaust pipe. You'd need to weld these in place. They seal &lt;em&gt;very well&lt;/em&gt; and you'd not have to worry about a seal as these self seal once the band clamp is in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T12:47:44.330" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T12:47:44.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2015-05-13T18:30:24.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using Isopropyl alcohol.  It is the main component in allot of electronics cleaners since it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol#Solvent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quoting wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alcohol dissolves a wide range of non-polar compounds. It also evaporates quickly, leaves nearly zero oil traces, compared to ethanol, and is relatively non-toxic, compared to alternative solvents. Thus, it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils. Together with ethanol, n-butanol, and methanol, it belongs to the group of alcohol solvents, about 6.4 million tonnes of which were utilized worldwide in 2011.[13]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of this application include cleaning electronic devices such as contact pins (like those on ROM cartridges), magnetic tape and disk heads (such as those in audio and video tape recorders and floppy disk drives), the lenses of lasers in optical disc drives (e.g., CD, DVD) and removing thermal paste from heatsinks and IC packages (such as CPUs[14]). Isopropyl alcohol is used in keyboard, LCD and laptop cleaning, is sold commercially as a whiteboard cleaner, and is a strong but safer alternative to common household cleaning products.[which?] It is commonly used to clean prepared optical fibers just before splicing. It is used to clean LCD and glass computer monitor screens (at some risk to the anti-reflection coating on some screens[citation needed]), and used to give second-hand or worn non-vinyl phonograph records newer-looking sheen. It is effective at removing Hot-Melt Adhesive from a large variety of surfaces. It is effective at removing residual glue from some sticky labels although some other adhesives used on tapes and paper labels are resistant to it. It can also be used to remove stains[clarification needed] from most fabrics, wood, cotton, etc. In addition, it can also be used to clean paint or other oil-based products so that they may be reused, commonly known as &amp;quot;repainting.&amp;quot; It is used as a wetting agent in the fountain solution used in lithographic printing, and often used as a solvent for French polishing shellac used in cabinet making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:30:24.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2015-05-13T20:51:45.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where did you get your vehicle serviced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure that '94 Concordes don't have carburetors; so I am curious who charged you for this service and if it is a wise idea to go back to them. That year/model is fuel injected and they &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have serviced your fuel injection system, but that is different than a carb cleaning; you should verify with your mechanic what exactly was done and make sure they are not charging you for something that is simply not possibly on that vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, and more to your question, are there any other indications of an issue? The biggest indication that one would look for are &lt;strong&gt;service lights&lt;/strong&gt; being &lt;strong&gt;on&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, is your check engine light on? I reckon it might be and the best course of action is to take it to a mechanic and have him see what is causing the light to be on (error code); just be sure to take it to someone who hasn't charged you for a carb cleaning on a fuel injected car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous reasons why this might happen, but we need more details to help you. Does it stall at a certain time consistently (like idling)? The more details you can provide the better we can help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastEditorUserId="6333" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T21:06:41.417" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T21:06:41.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T00:13:32.040" Score="2" ViewCount="9460" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 g6 v6 3.5 is showing codes p0171, p0174, p0705 and u0073&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;171 and 174 show that the engine is running lean. &#xA;Is this a serious issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0705 shows the trans range sensor a circuit&#xA;0073 says the control module communication bus is off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My abs has been acting up but the dash doesn't have any lights. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2020-10-25T20:17:15.587" Title="Pontiac g6 runs lean; throwing codes" Tags="|engine|brakes|transmission|troubleshooting|pontiac|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T00:47:45.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1815" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering idling losses are present in every engine, reducing the idling rpm might be providing significant savings. But, as I noticed on my bike, the chances of engine stalling increases with reduction in idling rpm. So, is there a way, however complicated, to reduce it by any value without the engine stalling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the ambient temperature is around 23~25 deg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10475" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T07:01:45.363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T09:14:16.417" Title="How do I reduce engine idling rpm without stalling it?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|rpm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16507" CreationDate="2015-05-14T01:03:14.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other reasons mentioned by maplemale, I would add the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt; - Depending on the car, price may be a more important factor for the manufacturer and the buyer than the marginal power gains from a turbo charger. It's not just the parts price that increases, it's also an increase in design cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Space&lt;/strong&gt; - Turbos require plenty of space in the engine bay for all of the additional plumbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastEditorUserId="3993" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T22:46:00.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T22:46:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T03:38:19.060" Score="2" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 2007 Honda Civic. It has 155k in odometer. It has been in an accident recently. The reverse gear indicator light on the dash board is turned off. The fault code say P0812: Reverse Input Circuit. I took it to couple of auto mechanics but they are not familiar with this problem or how to fix it. I could use some expert advice here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7370" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T11:30:20.653" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T11:30:20.653" Title="Fault code: P0812: Reverse Input Circuit." Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16937" CreationDate="2015-05-14T07:07:17.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with low idle is more significant when viewed from the perspective of oil pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the idle, albeit a noble cause of saving the planet, reduces overall emissions insignificantly when compared to the implosion of an engine.  The carbon footprint related to throwing a rod and having processed oil spill out over an open uncontrolled surface are significantly higher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil pressure is usually tied to engine RPM as most oil pumps are connected to the motor itself and require the engine to be working in order to provide oil pressure.  If engine RPM is reduced below suggested manufacturer settings then oil pressure could be reduced significantly as it is directly tied to engine RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T08:45:59.977" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T08:45:59.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16936" CreationDate="2015-05-14T07:19:41.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a lean condition isn't good for the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lean is higher oxygen and lower fuel.  Oxygen burns hotter than fuel.  Being lean is to have a condition where the fire in your engine is hotter.  The results are increased wear on valves and potentially melting the aluminum of the head.  The melting is under extreme conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in a situation where the ECU has essentially set itself into a 'safe mode' of pre-programmed settings if it feels the data it's receiving from various sensors is questionable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 0073 code, IMO, is the key.  This is a failed bus on the ECU if I'm correct.  You can try getting a used ECU on ebay or another source of used equipment or replacing with OEM.  Validate what I've said, ECU's are expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.  Too many variables on the ABS.  If your front tires are over worn, it can act up under hard braking and give the steering wheel a good shake. Validate tire tread depth and brake pads as a starting point on the ABS issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T07:19:41.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16937" CreationDate="2015-05-14T07:43:05.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need a heavier flywheel. If you idle too low, your flywheel doesn't have enough momentum to keep the engine running smoothly. A heavier flywheel will remedy that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T07:43:05.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16936" CreationDate="2015-05-14T07:50:24.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's serious. It's usually either because your MAF sensor is dirty, or one or more fuel injectors aren't working properly. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check out this link&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;You should still be able to drive a car that's running too lean, but you should never, under any circumstances drive it fast or put it under heavy load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Causes&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of &quot;oiled&quot; air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty or stuck open PCV valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) Sticking/plugged or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel  filter!) Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible solutions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include: &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location&#xA;if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with&#xA;electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not&#xA;to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T11:47:10.023" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T11:47:10.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16819" CreationDate="2015-05-14T08:23:34.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overdrive is misunderstood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional definition is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a gear that drives the rear rotations to be lower than that of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means you truck shouldn't go into 'overdrive' at 40mph.  No car does this.  At a higher speed, in order to conserve fuel, a car may go into overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing if your vehicle is actually going into overdrive, or not, is not a no brainer.  Making a claim of, 'it doesn't go into overdrive' doesn't mean it isn't, it only means you believe it isn't.  Two different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the facts regarding your vehicle &quot;not going into overdrive&quot;.  If you explain that claim then someone here can help you to resolve why it isn't functioning properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T08:46:55.587" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T08:46:55.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16224" CreationDate="2015-05-14T09:01:05.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A faulty installation can cause the bearing to fail prematurely - particularly if it is done up too tight - this is often a problem on older cars that need more axle endfloat than modern vehicles. Also if the bearing wasn't properly greased on installation, the unlubricated wear would destroy it fairly quickly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that other problems such as a serious suspension misalignment could cause premature bearing failure, due to the unusual force loadings that would be applied, but if that was the case then you'd notice the irregular wear to the tyres that would also result...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check for a wheelbearing failure by jacking up the car (and supporting it on stands), then trying to shake the wheel vertically and horizontally - there should be minimal, if any, movement. Spinning it by hand may also help you to hear where the noise is coming from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T09:01:05.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16947" CreationDate="2015-05-14T11:11:19.490" Score="1" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a replacement muffler from the internet for my 2004 Xterra.  It arrived yesterday but had some noticeable dents in the resonator.  My question is: will these dings degrade the sound suppression of the resonator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T11:25:52.093" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T11:36:14.963" Title="Damaged Muffler Degrades Performance" Tags="|exhaust|muffler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16946" CreationDate="2015-05-14T11:29:02.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very subjective question in what do you mean by &lt;em&gt;noticeable&lt;/em&gt;? It also depends on the size of the resonator itself. The general answer would be, no, it won't. Most mufflers have fiberglass matting in them which absorbs the sound which flows into the muffler. The dents usually won't affect this. The only time it would is if the muffler is completely crushed in some way. If you had bad shipping or believe it came from the source that way, send it back for a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T11:29:02.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16951" CreationDate="2015-05-14T15:18:25.263" Score="4" ViewCount="4377" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car overheated on the drive in to work today. I'll describe the symptoms... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with a minor coolant leak for about a month now. I top it off once per week, about 1L of fluid. The leak is coming from the upper corner of the radiator (I ordered a new one 2 days ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently (2 weeks) I've noticed that when I stop the car, the coolant is boiling. If I open the hood I can see it bubbling up out of the radiator hose into the coolant reservoir. It didn't used to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sometimes the heat doesn't work, especially if the coolant is low. It just blows out cold air. Then I hear a click, and I have hot air again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, nothing was out of the ordinary at first. I just happened to look down at the temp guage and it was edging up to the red. Normally, it sits dead even in the middle. So I turned on the heat and the gauge came down a little. But the heat quit working and the car was blowing cold air for 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 5 minutes, I hear a sudden thump, then a loud series of thumping noises. I can tell that it's a ton of boiling coolant rushing into the reservoir. I pull the car over and the coolant is boiling like crazy. Car won't start. I let it sit there and cool down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the temp comes down, I try again. Exact same situation. Cold air from the heater, a thump, and a sudden rush of boiling coolant. Then the heat works for a few minutes and then gets cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the heck is wrong? Thermostat? Water pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: the radiator fan does come on once the car warms up, and when I turn on the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10478" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T16:17:48.797" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T22:23:50.853" Title="2004 Jeep Liberty overheating" Tags="|jeep|repair|replace|overheating|liberty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1851" CreationDate="2015-05-14T16:28:21.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the same trouble of intermittent shut-off while driving. I drive a 96 Honda Accord LX. 2.2L. It turned out to be the ignition control module (ICM) located inside the distributor. (50) bucks at Autozone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10479" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:28:21.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16949" CreationDate="2015-05-14T16:40:16.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr;&lt;/strong&gt; - Once the radiator is changed, it's probably going to clear up most of the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be several issues happening all at once, but let's focus on first things. You're car is most likely boiling over due to the leak in the radiator. The system is not building the pressure it normally would, so will boil sooner than what it would normally. The boiling is exacerbated by there being a lower than normal amount of coolant in the system. This could also be affecting how the heat is working (although, this could be a thermostat issue as well). With coolant being low, this might not be allowing the coolant to circulate very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the radiator put in, ensure the system is fully filled. If you don't do this, you may still encounter some of the same issues you started with. One of the things to help you with this is to put the vehicle on a slope with the nose pointing up. This should allow more of the air in the system to bleed out. Replace whatever fluid is needed after this to fill the system. Ensure you are using a 50/50 mix. If you get full strength anti-freeze, ensure you have distilled water as the other half of the mix (not tap water, as there are minerals and such in the tap water which isn't good for the system). You'll also probably need to check the coolant over the next week to ensure the coolant is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't clear up your issues, there are two more areas you will need to look at, which are the radiator cap (if it is the pressure relief type), and secondly thermostat. One of these (or all three) should cure your ills, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:40:16.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12736" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:32:31.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gas cap very hard to remove, the problem is not the cap. The vacuum is most likely the fuel solenoid stuck open. Changing the cap will not remedy the problem. I will have my auto get this part replaced, soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10482" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T21:30:00.663" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T21:30:00.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16954" CreationDate="2015-05-14T23:28:59.760" Score="2" ViewCount="2257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do the least wear on my clutch on a manual car. I only recently passed the test and I wonder if I ever learnt to use the clutch efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I change gears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;foot of gas press clutch pedal fully in (as normal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull clutch out a little to bite point and wait to feel the gear has engaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only now add gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I know always adds gas though while releasing the clutch after selecting gear. Because I wait to feel the gear engage and only then add gas, especially on hills, this means their is a notable loss in momentum and my driving is always slower than most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who of us is wearing the clutch out more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, I'm not happy with my hill starts but I don't want to do more wear to the clutch. Here is my process / how I was taught (hill starts as in fully stopped / handbrake applied)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Handbrake is on) press clutch, select gear 1 (as normal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add what I feel is enough gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bring clutch out to get bite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now release handbrake (car stationary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go as normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EVERYONE I see will instead pull the clutch up and press the gas simultaneously all while releasing the handbrake, so they accelerate nice and quick while I'm going much slower. But it was how I was taught... to do one after the other rather than all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know who is right in all this. I know I'm much slower and pee of people behind me at traffic lights that only stay green for a few seconds. Most of all though I want to do the least damage to my clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10484" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:29:10.650" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:29:10.650" Title="Achieving least wear on clutch when changing gears?" Tags="|clutch|car|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-05-15T18:57:16.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16953" CreationDate="2015-05-15T07:07:02.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of All , To wear down a modern Clutch plate before its end of life you got to do a lot more than what you have mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving styles vary from person to person but the way you have mentioned is the style of a typical beginner, Once you are experienced enough with the manual tranny it will become second nature and you will do &quot;ALL AT ONCE&quot; approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All at once will keep the momentum of the car seamless and is better for the clutch.(Don't worry after a few hundred miles you will also do the same)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your Actual question, To wear down the clutch you need to perform drastic down shifts in the pursuit of better acceleration , Though there are many causes, for a everyday commuter down shifting to achieve acceleration when you are in higher RPMs tend to wear out the clutch faster , but even still to break it its not that easy so chill out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T07:07:02.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16958" CreationDate="2015-05-15T07:14:38.040" Score="7" ViewCount="35755" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Subaru Outback overheated when my wife was driving. I got to the car that evening and its radiator was pretty low.  I refilled it, and the car ran fine for a week.  Then it overheated again.  Our mechanic says we have a blown head gasket.  We need to wait before we can pay for that repair, so we took it home for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it today.  It ran fine for a few hours, then rapidly started getting hot.  I opened the cap and let it boil, filled the radiator (it took about a half gallon), and kept driving.  It overheated again in about five minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened about four times over 15 miles - It would suddenly get hot after approximately five minutes of easy driving; I would open the radiator and let it boil off; refilled it with water; and kept driving towards home.  It had just started getting hot again when I got home and parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here's what is confusing me.  After it cooled off, I opened the cap (without it needing to boil off), and the radiator was still full!  Perhaps most of the coolant I lost on the way home was simply due to my opening the hot radiator and letting it boil... It does lose a bit of coolant even when it isn't overheating, but that might be a hose leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this behavior be explained by a bad head gasket?  The system can obviously hold pressure.  I'm wondering if the thermostat is bad instead.  Maybe both problems exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T23:14:00.980" Title="Can a blown head gasket cause overheating, without losing coolant?" Tags="|cooling-system|radiator|overheating|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14883" CreationDate="2015-05-15T09:03:04.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Dan says in the comments, have you tried a different battery? If you have power to the lights, you should have power to the starter, but a poor battery may not give enough power to fire the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that the shaking you have mentioned has caused one of the leads going to the starter to fail. There should be two cables attached to the starter, a big one from the battery and a small one from the ignition switch. The latter is often quite thin and so could possibly fatigue and snap at the connector. You can test this by disconnecting it at the starter end and using a multimeter to see if it gets 12v when an assistant turns the switch to 'start' (or by the not-recommended method of shorting the connections on the starter together so it gets power from the main battery feed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T09:03:04.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15831" CreationDate="2015-05-15T10:28:59.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it turns out I got conned by the mechanic. He knew I was in another town, so wouldn't get back to him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told he had replaced the heater control valve, when in fact he had removed it and just put two plain tubes in its place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9711" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T10:28:59.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16955" CreationDate="2015-05-15T10:33:44.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible. Also, the bit you lost that you think may be a leaking pipe is actually being turned to steam and blown out your exhaust. The car runs fine until the engine gets hot enough for the thermostat to open up, at which point exhaust gases are let into the radiator. The details of how/why is a bit long, but this is what happens. How do I know this? the 2006 Outback uses the same engine as the 2006 Forester and Impreza models. And those engines all had headgasket problems. My Forester did exactly the same. The symptoms are always the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overheating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sytematic loss of coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressure in the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bubbles in the radiator when the thermostat opens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headgasket is feeble and tears between the cylinder and waterjacket, sucking coolant into the cylinder and blowing some exhaust into the coolant system. An updated headgasket should be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make dead sure that you don't have any cooling problems again, you should save up some money and have a mishimoto radiator installed in place of the floppy plastic one you have currently. It's not urgent, but it should be done before 120 thousand miles/200 thousand kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T10:33:44.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T10:48:36.687" Score="4" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;The negative battery cable on my 1987 Chrysler 5th Avenue is two-wire and very old and brittle.  The 4 ga cable connects to alternator; smaller lead to frame of car.  Both are about 20 inches in length.  Aftermarket cables are 20 inch with  6 in pigtails, butt splice connector.&#xA;Prefer not to extend the pigtail the required 14 in to frame. Can the old cable be replaced with two separate cables--- a 20 in  ground strap from the negative battery terminal to the frame; and a 20 in 4ga negative from the negative battery terminal to alternator?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ann&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10487" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T14:05:49.270" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:49:13.703" Title="Battery Cable Replacement 1987 Chrysler 5th Avenue" Tags="|chrysler|5th-avenue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2015-05-15T11:37:01.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems the internal mechanism had failed (The cam inside the caliper, I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had the caliper replaced by the dealer (they have proven themselves trusted, competent and pragmatic in the past).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="3688" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T21:44:13.027" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:44:13.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2015-05-15T15:27:00.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know where you looked for the fuse, but I found that it's not under the hood of the 2008 accord. It's beneath the steering column by the driver's left foot. Fuse no.  30. There's another one on the passenger side (one to each individual lightbulb) , but I only had to change the passenger side and both headlights started working.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10489" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T15:27:00.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16964" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chrysler vehicle produced between 1982 to 1989 (1st gen M-Body) and 1990-1993 (2nd gen W-Body), though was an option on the R-body New Yorker vehicles from 1979-1981. This is an upscale vehicle which has leather seating and vinyl top. The first gen is rear wheel drive powered by a V8. The second gen is also rear wheel drive, but a V6 was introduced to propel it. It was produced in several plants, including Windsor, Ontario (1982–1983), St. Louis, Missouri (1984–1986), and Kenosha, Wisconsin (1987–1988) for the first generation, then in Belvidere, Illinois for the final years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16965" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" Score="0" Body="Mid to Large vehicle produced by the Chrysler Corporation between 1982-1993." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T15:55:17.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16970" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:20:21.007" Score="7" ViewCount="53819" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are looking at purchasing a new Subaru Outback. In the manufacturer's specifications, it states that for the 2.5L (four-cyl), that the towing package allows us to tow up to 2,700lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, the 3.6L (6-cyl) allows for 3,000lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems really odd to me. For one thing, I don't think that a 2.5L engine produces enough torque to tow 2,700lbs. Additionally, if that were true, why wouldn't the addition of over 1L of displacement generate enough of a torque difference to tow more than an extra 300lbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ask the salespeople (and others) about this, they give me a hand-waving answer about how it &quot;has something to do with the symmetric all-wheel drive and attachment to the frame at a lower center of gravity.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that Subaru uses a Boxer-style engine, with symmetric all-wheel drive, but could someone give me a better answer (ideally with specifics about the physics of energy transmission in the drivetrain) as to why a Subaru 2.5L engine can tow 2,700lbs, but my current Mazda3 with a 2.4L can't really tow 500lbs?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2003" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T14:58:55.987" Title="2.5L four-cylinder able to tow 2,700lbs?" Tags="|subaru|towing|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:26:30.493" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me is necessary the electric diagram of engine control Z5 and the procedure regulation of throttle position sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10491" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T20:20:55.357" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T23:58:14.857" Title="Mazda 323P,Electrical circuit of engine control" Tags="|electrical|mazda|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16966" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:38:24.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I won't speak directly to the Subaru and its specific towing capacity, there are several reason why some vehicles have better towing capacity than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason is most people think about towing as how much a vehicle can actually &lt;em&gt;pull&lt;/em&gt;, when there are more factors involved. You also need to look at how much the vehicle can safely &lt;em&gt;slow down&lt;/em&gt;. Realistically, you should not tow more weight than what the vehicle weighs (without a trailer brake). If your towed weight exceeds the vehicle weight, the towed weight will have the propensity to push the vehicle around during stopping. (Think of a jack knifed trailer.) I would assume with the Subaru, the larger engine weighs more, which allows for the additional towing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is there is more to towing than what the engine can handle. Everything in the powertrain (engine, transmission, transfer, differentials, drive axles) are all in play. If these pieces aren't built to take it, it won't be able to handle it. I know the Subaru's can take some punishment, which is probably why they can handle a lot more than your Mazda3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles just weren't designed to tow other things. Consider, also, when the towed weight capacity is given, you should reduce that much by the weight of any cargo you are hauling in the vehicle itself, such as occupants, fuel, other cargo. All of the weight which would not be there with a vehicle by itself needs to be taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are other reasons, but hopefully this gives you an idea why it changes from vehicle to vehicle and model to model. The change isn't quite linear and therefor needs to be taken into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T02:50:29.740" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:50:29.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16966" CreationDate="2015-05-15T19:39:41.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of towing, in reality, all you need is enough torque to get over initial resistance, as rolling resistance is much lower. This is why you get people who can tow a bus, or a jumbo jet, for example, so absolute power isn't the be-all and end-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I wrote in my comment, the flat-4 boxer engine is a good one for pulling, as it does give smooth power, per revolution - it isn't 'lumpy' but the most important difference between your Mazda and a Subaru is the engineering of the entire drivetrain. Subaru, built by Fuji Heavy Industries, really lives up to the 'heavy industry' part - it is heavily over-engineered, with the engine block, differentials, gearbox and transmission well able to cope with more than the car will normally have to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paulster commented, the actual safe weight towable also depends on the handling and braking characteristics, so while the power of the 3.6l may be much higher, the rest of the car is not much changed (ie same tyres, suspension, brakes, similar weight) so even if you had a much bigger engine you wouldn't be able to tow much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T19:39:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11878" CreationDate="2015-05-15T20:49:18.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like normal behavior.  Under load, most cars will disengage the A/C compressor clutch to provide more power for acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10495" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:49:18.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16326" CreationDate="2015-05-16T02:23:48.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you'll have to remove any head rest (if there), then there will be what is called &quot;hog rings&quot; which you'll have to pull (be prepared with new ones to replace). After that you can pull the cover off, starting at the bottom and pulling it back up over itself, so when it comes off it will be inside out. Then you'll have it off and you can replace the piece you are looking to replace. Goes back on in opposite order (easier said than done). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:23:48.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16325" CreationDate="2015-05-16T02:28:25.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what your headlights have to do with an audio system? If you are fitting the audio system yourself, you need to find a switched source of power, one which comes on when you turn the key. The best way to fit this is to buy the adapter kit for it, which will give you a wired adapter which plugs into your car and aligns with the color coding on your radio wiring. This will get you your switched power lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dt4ym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm talking about is the adapter portion which is hanging down. I have no clue what this one is for, but you should have on similar. If you do have one and the end is attached to the car plug, I'd look to see to make sure the wires are aligned correctly. The main power in for your Peugeot should be switched, so the correct adapter will associate this power lead to your head unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:28:25.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16210" CreationDate="2015-05-16T02:32:50.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along the lines of what Josh is saying, a lot of cars these days have the clutch and brake master cylinders combined with a tube running from the brake to the clutch to supply it with fluid. If they didn't refill the brake fluid when they did your clutch slave, it could be causing the light to come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T02:32:50.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16134" CreationDate="2015-05-16T03:38:22.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is an OBDI vehicle, there will be only one O2 sensor located where the exhaust ports all come together in the exhaust manifold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:38:22.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16123" CreationDate="2015-05-16T03:39:39.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It clarifies half way through the article, stating &quot;He clarified that Euro 4 fuel could still be loaded in old vehicles.&quot; (the &quot;He&quot; being Environment Secretary Ramon Paje). I don't think you'll have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:39:39.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16068" CreationDate="2015-05-16T03:41:36.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried a different key? If the key isn't turning, it's not the fault of the anti-theft, it's a mechanical problem with the key and locking mechanism. The security light is going to flash until you are able to turn the key in the ignition. You may try jiggling the steering wheel a little and see if that will allow the key to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:41:36.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16033" CreationDate="2015-05-16T03:45:19.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle is at rest, the voltage will be at peak when the vehicle is turned off. It will never get higher than that without being charged. My point is, the way you have this worded, the device you are trying to turn on will never turn on because it will never reach the given voltage. Either that, or it will turn on when you shut the car off because it has met your threshold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you are going to get one right answer. There are too many factors involved, the largest of which is the health of the battery itself. As a battery gets older, it will lose the ability to &quot;fully charge&quot;, meaning that brand new, the battery may sit at 13.1vdc, while when it comes close to end of life, resting voltage may be 12.3vdc. Your setup would work on the new end of things, but fail as it became older. A catch all just is not going to work as far as I can see at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:45:19.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T05:11:27.980" Score="2" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Chevy Equinox LT that started reporting code p1443, and has started to die from time to time. This happens when the Equinox is at rest, either in gear or in &quot;Park,&quot; then begins moving in either Drive or Reverse. The engine makes no sounds when it dies, it just dies as smoothly as if I turned the engine off myself. The engine will rev up to 3k-4k RPM while in Park without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few good revs and the problem temporarily goes away. I've replaced the evap purge solenoid so far, but it didn't fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about troubleshooting the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastEditorUserId="2432" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T18:04:28.663" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T01:55:17.130" Title="How do I troubleshoot a P1443 code for a Chevy Equinox" Tags="|fuel-system|chevrolet|equinox|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17079" CreationDate="2015-05-16T07:19:41.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Honda Shine (125cc) bike which started giving a less cushioning problem on its rear suspension since it was near to its second service (1200 km, 5 months from purchase). Though I told the same to service persons all the time since 2nd service to the latest one (6th service), there was no item regarding that was marked in the job sheets though they assured to look on that. In effect, there was no fix happened on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last service person, guided me to adjust the suspension level by the adjuster as given in the below image. But, I don't feel much of a difference by that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ojdcP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a common problem in Honda Shine bike or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so is it fixable by replacing the suspension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If replaced is it going to fix it permanently or just temporary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it something covered under the Warranty\Extended Warranty of the bike (parts covered in warranty are listed in the below image)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7zEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10497" LastEditorUserId="10497" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T03:36:50.913" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T06:05:00.053" Title="Is Honda Shine Rear-Suspension claimable on Warranty\Extended Warranty" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-06-04T13:12:34.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17023" CreationDate="2015-05-16T08:14:29.500" Score="2" ViewCount="21924" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a lot of Googling I've found loads of different things that could be causing this - and none for a Ford Transit so I hope someone can explain exactly what is causing this problem, and from the mechanical side, what is actually physically happening, (and how the mechanism actually works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often when I try to go into first gear, the stick does not go all the way in, and it makes a grinding sound. It seems worse when the van is at a stand still - it goes in far more easily when the van is rolling slightly (a few mph). If I depress and repress the clutch, sometimes it goes in, but can take 3-4 attempts at times. The reverse gear has the same problem, but I have not tried it while rolling forward or backwards, since it's not all that easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model is a 2005 2.0L Diesel SWB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What part is likely to be needing repair? Perhaps someone can give a link to an example part? For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_transit_clutch_repair_kit_20l_diesel_2003_f_4456167_c_701.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford Transit Clutch Repair Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10020" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T16:03:16.823" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T05:38:09.503" Title="Ford Transit not going into 1st gear easily" Tags="|ford|clutch|gears|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T08:53:14.707" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have observed that my ktm duke 390's back wheel is difficult to rotate even while its in neutral. If i'm riding the bike, if i put it in neutral, the bike slows down pretty quick than it used to be. Chain is well lubed and it's not tight.&#xA;Any help ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10500" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:13:00.247" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:13:00.247" Title="Duke 390 Tyre rotation problem" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|tires|chain|ktm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17088" CreationDate="2015-05-16T11:50:29.593" Score="4" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, my car didn't start. I think that the crank was turning over because I could hear the loud sound a car makes just before starting up but the car was not starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called a mechanic. He changed the battery and the car works now. Coming to the point, I initially thought that since the crank was turning, there was no problem with the battery (like a weak battery) since I presume that turning over the crank requires a lot of energy. But in this case, it looks like there are parts in a car that requires even more energy than the starter motor, in the starting process of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, could you present a generic comparison of energy required per car part? Especially, which parts in starting process require more energy than the starter? Am I completely out of the ballpark by thinking that there are parts that require more energy than the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10501" LastEditorUserId="25601" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T00:46:07.643" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T00:46:07.643" Title="Which car parts require more energy than the starter?" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17014" CreationDate="2015-05-16T14:19:02.653" Score="2" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2 month old bike is a 200CC Bajaj Pulsar (made in india) with only 2000kms on the odometer.&#xA;I have ridden it carefully. I touched 100km/h accidentally on a drag race with my friend, just one time, but mostly ride between 50-70km/h. I recently completed a +500km trip over bad terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Problems&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The handle get a hit like there is no suspension every time I hit a pothole or a bump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearbox is so annoying. 1st and 2nd gears are so noisy and most of the time the N will hit on gear change from 1st to 2nd&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't expect much quality or reliability. But, I'm not expecting these problems so soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me what could cause these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7004" LastEditorUserId="7004" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T12:27:28.963" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T12:27:28.963" Title="My motorbike handle gets a hit when I hit a bump or pothole" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|gears|bajaj|india|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2015-05-16T14:43:32.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a Pilot Car driver and have taped my sign on my pick up several times. When I remove it and the glue is left I use WD-40 and it removes the glue. It alse removes tar from your vehicle too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10502" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T14:43:32.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16987" CreationDate="2015-05-16T15:55:49.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a starter is energized and cranking the engine, it will pull more power than any other electrically operated part on the vehicle. You say you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the car was cranking over ... I'd submit that maybe what you thought you heard was not what was actually happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T15:55:49.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16986" CreationDate="2015-05-16T16:02:02.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the rear-end is too tight. There is a straight rod which runs through the back of the bike which holds the rear-end together. You can see it in the circled in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX9Zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't torqued correctly, it will cause drag on the rear end. Sounds like your's is torqued too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another area to look at is to see if the rear brakes are dragging at all. This, too, would cause the issue you're talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T16:02:02.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16985" CreationDate="2015-05-16T16:08:47.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the first gear synchro is or has gone out. This is a part within the transmission. The part allows the gears on both sides of the transmission (drive/driven) to mesh correctly. It is a wear item which is designed to take the abuse instead of the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fixing this is not in the near future, you can try something which might help get by. When you go to shift into first, try shifting into second, then straight up into first from there (no hesitation after you start your move from second to first). This may help keep things aligned while you are trying to shift and allow the operation to happen without the grind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only typical way to get this fixed is by taking it to a qualified transmission shop. They can not only diagnose for sure, but get it fixed if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T16:08:47.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T17:20:59.913" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad and I were trying to take off the manifold on our Nissan and the bolts will not budge. We don't have the money to do it and we need it done because we don't have any other car. We tried spraying it, my dad broke a tool and I got cut badly on my thumb. Is there any possible way we can get it off and any ways how? Please don't say take it in because we don't have money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10503" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T17:27:10.713" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T17:27:10.713" Title="2004 Nissan Altima manifold exhaust bolts" Tags="|nissan|stuck-bolt|altima|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-05-17T21:17:47.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T00:01:05.803" Score="1" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering how you would wire in an emergency 'E' stop into a 12 volt or 24 volt diesel engine??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have to wire into the ignition circuit or the fuel solenoid to prevent any chance of the engine running on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Peter Dickerson" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T12:16:11.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T12:16:11.967" Title="how do you wire in an emergency stop into 12v" Tags="|diesel|switches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16995" CreationDate="2015-05-17T00:13:02.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since diesel engines don't have an ignition system, you will have to control the fuel shut-off mechanism in the injection pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some engines (my Cummins 6BT, for example) require power on the solenoid to run, while others (such as a Ford Lehman I had) require power on the solenoid to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12111" OwnerDisplayName="Peter Bennett" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T00:13:02.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T01:17:40.660" Score="6" ViewCount="11142" Body="&lt;p&gt;What has the highest chance of puncturing your tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving over a piece of glass at 5mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving over a piece of glass at 30mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former would have quicker contact but the latter would be gentler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10033" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T02:54:32.960" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T15:00:17.287" Title="Tire puncture with glass" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2015-05-17T01:43:57.470" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;could it be the oil cooler inside the radiator leaking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10507" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T01:43:57.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T03:21:43.683" Score="2" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Front Passenger side compliance bushing is bad. I can get the bushing for $27, or I can get the entire control arm (including bushing) for $41. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be worth it just to change out the entire arm (since i have to remove the arm to get to the bushing anyways)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just seems like its worth it (to me, at least) to pay the extra $14 so I wouldn't need to remove the bad bushing and press in the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never changed out a compliance bushing (or control arm), so is there anything I should watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10509" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T12:02:26.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T12:02:26.657" Title="2005 Civic Lower Control Arm replacement or Bushing?" Tags="|honda|civic|bushing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T05:22:34.103" Score="6" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image below is from a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire.&#xA;Credits to (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Sunfire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Sunfire&lt;/a&gt;) for the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put arrows to the the part that I'd like to know what it's called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a used car and that part is missing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Please feel free to update the post with more accurate information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KjWp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10511" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T05:32:12.190" Title="What is the part called that connects the engine to the air intake system? (Photo included)" Tags="|pontiac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16999" CreationDate="2015-05-17T11:49:20.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most control arm bushings require some type of mechanical or hydraulic press to install then in to the control arm. If you don't have access to a press you will have to pay someone to do it. This requires you to remove the arm and bring it somewhere.  The cost in labor is likely going raise the cost to higher than the price of the arm with the bushing installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T11:49:20.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17000" CreationDate="2015-05-17T11:58:59.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is called the &lt;strong&gt;Engine Crankcase Ventilation Hose&lt;/strong&gt; ... The part number is 24467120 and is #18 in this diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eflya.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T11:58:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16997" CreationDate="2015-05-17T12:10:08.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the thing. Modern tires are pretty tough gizmos. They can stand up to a lot of abuse, even broken glass. You are right that the slower contact would be gentler, but you forgot a key ingredient ... it will also be gentler on the glass as well. When you are at speed and run over a piece of glass, you're not being gentle on the glass. It will more than likely be destroyed in the contact. Some of the outer tire tread might be damaged by the contact, but for the most part the tire will come through unscathed. An exception where the glass would fare better than the tire is if the glass were to run up the sidewall during contact. There is less protection there for the tire (on most tires) than on the tread portion. This could cut the sidewall causing catastrophic tire failure, but this would occur whether going fast or slow. When the car is going slow, the glass has more chance of penetrating the tire in the tread portion. This would be more than likely fixable, but the damage is more likely to be greater than it would be with a fast moving tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T12:10:08.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17005" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:11:12.303" Score="2" ViewCount="7171" Body="&lt;p&gt;2013 Honda Civic here. I need to disconnect my car battery so that I can clean off some corrosion. Here are the pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOCmy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mEqQK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the positive terminal is under the big red cap with the plus sign (&quot;+&quot;) on it. However there seem to be multiple locations where the black negative terminal &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be located, and quite frankly I'm afraid to touch anything while I know its a live circuit. So I ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the negative terminal, specifically?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I access both terminals (that is, what do I do to remove their housings/caps)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; I touch while the battery is still connected? What &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; safe to touch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9842" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:36:08.020" Title="How to find and access the actual terminals of car battery" Tags="|battery|civic|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:36:08.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some quick art work to help you figure things out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqqEv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red circled area is where the negative terminal is at. Specifically the green arrow is pointing at it. You should be able to loosen the nut at the red arrow to gain access to the post to get the clamp off of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what you can touch and what you cannot, this really isn't a problem, as you can theoretically touch any of it without issue. What you don't want to do is touch somethings at the &lt;em&gt;same time&lt;/em&gt;. This can lead to issues. What you want to do to remove the battery safely, is to disconnect the negative lead of the battery (the circled area), then you can disconnect positive side (side with the red cap covering it). The reason for this is simple. With a negatively grounded car (this is important because there are some cars with a &lt;em&gt;positive ground&lt;/em&gt;), if you were to loosen the clamp on the positive side first and touched a metal wrench to something which was grounded, you'd cause all kinds of sparks from arcing. This could potentially ignite any hydrogen gas which may have emanated from the battery as well as cause yourself some serious burns. Remember to remove any rings/watches/jewelry which may conduct electricity. I've seen some nasty photos of those who haven't heeded that warning and suffered the price of losing a finger because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reconnect, do so in the opposite direction (positive first, then negative). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:36:08.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16704" CreationDate="2015-05-17T20:11:08.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally got a chance to mess around with it and confirmed an answer I found. All the blinker lights have to be connected in order for it to blink. Connected them all and now everything is working with the blinkers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T20:11:08.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T20:14:53.880" Score="0" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently bought a Yamaha fz700 bike. Headlights don't work whatsoever, checked fuses, bulbs, and I found that wires aren't getting any power. Flipping the Hi/Lo beam switch doesn't change anything either. Also the brake lights work, and the foot pedal lights them up, but the hand lever doesn't. I m trying to stay away from disassembling the whole wiring harness since its kinda messy, that would be a last resort, but I was wondering if there's anything else I could do to troubleshoot it. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T20:22:09.783" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T20:22:09.783" Title="Yamaha fz700 brake and headlights problem" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|wiring|yamaha|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-18T13:59:12.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T22:12:45.130" Score="3" ViewCount="3874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've BMW 318i E90 2007 which is heating up after about 2-3 miles and since it has been heating so quick esp in down town and low speeds, I have not had a chance to take it to highways. Now, there are many things which have been done (potentially wrong) to this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix brand coolant &amp;amp; water with no regard to ratio of water and coolant. Basically a ignorant mistake!.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;KSeal coolant was added as a percussion to stop any leaks if any.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Engine was re-built some time back by some local whose work I don't believe at all. And now I also suspect that the HG has blown as there is some knocking sound from day 1 after engine rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometime back (After the engine rebuilt), a pressure test on coolant was A OK. but there are definitely coolant leak marks on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now baffled with what to do and what not to. Here is what I've come up with in the order to get this fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check radiator (Cooling system) for blockage and pressure test properly for long time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coolant drain (with vacuum) and flush the system 2-3 times and pressure check again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the system (Vacuum filling) with BMW coolant only with proper bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these 3 steps don't work, change the Thermostat which might have gone bad after wrong coolant etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If change of Coolant thermostat does not work, then the Head Gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly appreciate if someone please help me and share their thoughts on my approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10514" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T12:14:23.220" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T13:23:05.030" Title="Urgent! BMW 318i 2007 E90 Heating Up" Tags="|bmw|overheating|318i|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17837" CreationDate="2015-05-18T01:20:26.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;While under load, the engine sounds like there is a bunch of marbles bouncing around in the engine. Revving the engine in neutral does not create the noise. Filling the gas tank with 93 octane instead of 87 &quot;solves&quot; the issue with the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filling up with 93 octane seems silly and expensive for such an old car.&#xA;Some Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the issue occurring the spark plugs were replaced while&#xA;troubleshooting a misfire, that has been resolved. I double checked&#xA;and the plugs are correct for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car has the 1.8L engine and ~200k miles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that this is an issue with spark plugs or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T20:18:00.957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T23:21:04.440" Title="Diagnosing pinging issue in 2003 Nissan Sentra" Tags="|nissan|timing|knock|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T03:43:02.673" Score="5" ViewCount="2485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a really stupid mistake earlier tonight. I was at a gas station refueling my 2009 Nissan Altima (2.5L 4-cylinder engine). I stupidly selected the only option that was available at the pump which was biodiesel fuel. Before I filled up the car, it had about a quarter tank of unleaded gas left. I filled it up to about 3/4 of a tank with the biodiesel fuel. So now the car has 1/4 unleaded fuel and maybe 1/2 tank of biodiesel fuel. I drove the car for a total of maybe 20 minutes between the time I left the station and when I got home. After 5-10 minutes of driving my car started acting a little weird and thought at first it was something else. Then later I realized I put the wrong type of fuel in the car! Ugh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a gas station just down the street from where I am (a 5 minute drive at the most). I was able to drive around without too much trouble before I came home but it did start acting weird. I read that if you top it off with unleaded fuel then it should &quot;dilute&quot; the diesel fuel. As I keep driving, I should keep topping it off with more unleaded fuel. I still have a little more than a quarter tank to fill the car with right now. Is this even a viable option at this point? I have a AAA membership but they told me that all they will cover is the cost of towing the car to a repair shop and then will probably be paying at least $500 in repairs if not more (from what I've read). What are my options at this point? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10517" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T17:30:42.427" Title="Accidently put biodiesel fuel in 2009 Nissan Altima. What to do?" Tags="|nissan|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16988" CreationDate="2015-05-18T05:32:27.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am supposing its a Bajaj Pulsar 200NS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;problem 1: Your front Fork Oil Seal is broken(a good way to check is to notice any oil leaks near your forks) , This will cause issue with the suspension travel thus the issue.Secondly since you mentioned you did travel over bad terrain there is a slight chance of your fork bending, this will also cause suspension travel issue. Go to Ebay and get &quot;sealmate&quot; for your suspension oil leak issue or take it to the service station as for the fork bends , there is nothing you can do , Take it to the service station.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Problem 2 The gearbox on bajaj vehicles are horrible that said, tighten your clutch , its common for bike to hit neutral if clutch is lose tightening the clutch should fix your gearbox problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips : DO not do clutch-less  down shifts on those bikes. I think that bike has around 24bhp why are you riding at such slow speeds? its not like if you ride slow your bike will last longer! It actually will sit still if you suddenly decide to open the throttle.Show the baby some love. Peace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T05:32:27.237" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T06:20:40.850" Score="2" ViewCount="19672" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my engine is in neutral it reaches red line with no problem. It also&#xA;has power in first and second gear. The problem happens when i am driving up a&#xA; long incline, I will be in third or fourth gear flooring the gas but my rpm's wont go up and neither will my speed. What might be causing this and what parts would I have to change to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10519" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T21:19:13.497" Title="Manual engine has no power in third fourth and fifth gear when driving up an incline." Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17015" CreationDate="2015-05-18T06:55:47.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a problem. This is perfectly normal. Unless your car has immense power, you will need low gears to climb steep inclines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the gear, the lower the effective torque available for acceleration. This is part of the trade-off gears give you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low gears give you acceleration/torque so you can pull away from a stationary start and tow loads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High gears give you a higher top speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one gear was perfect in all situations all cars would only have one gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T06:55:47.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17015" CreationDate="2015-05-18T06:58:17.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all This is not a problem with your vehicle its general physics and applies to all vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your vehicle is in neutral there is no load on the drive train thus allowing the RPMs to reach its limiter easily, when you are in gear , the drive train has an opposing force of the road which is working in the opposite direction thus restricting the RPM climb. (If you have a Supercar or Superbike then the RPM will touch the limiter but in an average auto mobile it does not have enough power when in gears to reach high RPMs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No matter what you do your car will not climb an incline in the 3rd or 4th gear as much as it can when its in the lower gears. That is the whole point of having a gear system. Lets dig into some science for further explanation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a vechicle there are two things which determine motion &quot;Power and Torque&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower determines how fast a vehicle can travel, torque at the wheels determines how quickly that speed can be reached. The greater the torque figure, the faster the acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to picture what torque is, is by loosening a wheel nut. Try to loosen the nut by pulling on the spanner at the same end as the nut (very little torque) and you'll struggle to loosen it. Pull on the spanner at the end of its shaft (maximum torque) and you'll loosen it quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So , gears 1,2,3 have higher torque but less power allowing you to move from a stand still gears 4,5,6 have higer power which help in rolling acceleration once you hit a particular speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Answering your question : while climbing a hill you need more torque thus being in the 1,2,3 gears allows you to climb more efficiently compared to highers gears which require you to be in at least 40mph to work efficiently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT NEED TO CHANGE ANYTHING&lt;/strong&gt; on your car to make it go faster while on an incline just be in the lower gears, reach a proper speed then shift up and you will be fine, This is by design and working principle of an auto mobile and not a flaw.(Unless you have like 700+hp)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T07:08:09.677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:08:09.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17012" CreationDate="2015-05-18T07:46:08.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were my car, I'd siphon out the entire contents of my gas tank and fill up with unleaded. The worst thing that could have happened is that your catalytic converter(s) are really dirty. To remedy that, after you've filled up with unleaded, go for a Fast and Furious drive to get the cats good and hot so they burn off all the icky stuff. Don't worry about (lots of) smoke or a rough engine. That's just the last bit of diesel being burned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:46:08.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T09:26:08.370" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the UK and drive a 2002 (52 reg) Focus ST170. Recently the electric mirrors would only work vertically intermittently (always worked horizontally), and as of now will not move vertically at all. The vertical movement had been used a lot as I have to parallel park on my street. Both mirrors behave the same which leads me to believe it is not a problem with the motors or mirrors directly. Is this a common fault that I can solve with a switch replacement? Or will I have to go deeper and spend some real time on this. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10522" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T11:12:59.357" Title="Focus ST170 2002 Electric Mirror only works horizontal" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16985" CreationDate="2015-05-18T10:19:27.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be the clutch as you seem to suspect. The effect of the clutch not separating the engine from the gearbox fully is that the input shaft never stops rotating when in neutral. If you have noticed the clutch pedal not releasing as high as before, this is likely. If it's the synchronizer that's bad, moving into second gear and then first should help. (As that will stop the input shaft completely to match the output shaft)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clutch that does not fully disengage can be caused by different things. If it is a mechanical linkage, it might need adjustment. I think yours is hydraulic though, in that case you might want to check your fluid level and make sure no air is in the system or leaks is apparent in the master or slave cylinder. Bleed it and see if there's a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the hudraulics, it's likely mechanical and you would have to remove the gearbox to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1vrdn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1vrdn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Manual transmission&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/clutch__2_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automotivearticles.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T05:38:09.503" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T05:38:09.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17022" CreationDate="2015-05-18T11:12:59.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is most likely the switch, mainly due to it not working on either mirror. You can more than likely test the switch theory by pulling the switch out and jumping the leads directly to see if movement occurs one either of the mirrors in the direction you desire. I don't have a layout of the wiring, so I would first find where the power lead is at using a multimeter, then use a piece of wire to jump it to the other wires to find out where movement occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T11:12:59.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17394" CreationDate="2015-05-18T11:40:20.833" Score="2" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the owner of an Opel Astra G Caravan (This is the European name, don't know how it is in USA) from year 2007. It has an 1.4 Twinport engine Z14XEP and a manual gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I noticed that my car is going crazy at high rpms (2500+) and the yellow Check Engine sign appeared on dashboard, but engine doesn't stall, but it is working in a strange way after this with big vibrations. (If I am stopping the engine and starting again the problem is dissapearing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to arrive home and have a look into Throttle Body, bought a carb. cleaner, removed it from engine and cleaned it. After putting it back I decided to give it a try, and voila, the same problem was there. And now sometimes on my way to work the engine does the same thing, and if I am looking under the pipe that comes from air filter to the body the Throttle butterfly is blocked in full open position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a way to repair the sensor? &#xA;because I don't really want to change the body, because it costs me in my country around 350 Euro for a new one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T11:53:56.583" Title="Repairing of electronic throttle control" Tags="|throttle|opel|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17029" CreationDate="2015-05-18T14:30:21.447" Score="3" ViewCount="2548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i and I need new tires.  My current tires are P225/55R17 95H.  Searching around, I found some Yokohama Avid Ascend tires, which look to be great touring tires, especially in the winter - but they are only T-rated (118mph) as opposed to my current H-rated (130mph).  The dealer is very wary of installing because he would be going below the current rating. I am not a crazy driver - I might get the car up to 75 on the freeway.  Is there really any concern here about moving to a T-rated tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3505" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T18:31:08.417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T06:02:05.540" Title="Installing lower speed-rated tires than recommended" Tags="|tires|subaru|outback|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17027" CreationDate="2015-05-18T14:53:59.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the new tyres of the same load rating (the 95 before the H) as the recommended ones? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary issue with using a lower than recommended speed rating is legality, particularly relating to insurance. Obviously this will vary according to which country/state/jurisdiction you are in, for example in the UK you must declare this to your insurance company (as they consider it a modification from standard specification), and failing to do so would invalidate any insurance policy and leave you open to prosecution for driving without insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T14:53:59.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17010" CreationDate="2015-05-18T15:12:14.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you know the coolant is suspect, I'd begin with a full system drain, flush and refill, and check it all properly at the same time (rad, hoses, thermostat and pressure test). Thermostats can be tested by dangling them, and a thermometer, in a pan of water and gradually heating it to the appropriate temperature, then checking that the stat opens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can work out where the coolant marks on the ground are coming from. Coolant often leaves stain marks where it has run down the side of the engine that might give you clues. As well as the obvious areas, check the water pump, heater pipes and core plugs (round plugs inset into the side of the engine block)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suspect a HG failure, it'd also be worth doing a compression test on the cylinders and checking the oil for any visible signs of coolant (a creamy mayonnaise-like mixture forms when the two mix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth checking that the cooling fan works properly and that the airflow through the radiator and fan isn't blocked by bits of leaves etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T15:12:14.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17000" CreationDate="2015-05-18T15:19:12.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Paul's answer - the crankcase ventilation hose is required in order to prevent fumes from the engine oil escaping to atmosphere - instead they are ventilated into the air intake, so they pass through the engine and are burnt with the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T15:19:12.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16987" CreationDate="2015-05-18T15:24:45.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part of starting a car that takes the most energy is overcoming the compression inside the cylinders. When the engine is running, the fuel/air mix in each cylinder is compressed by the firing stroke of another cylinder, but when starting, the starter motor has to do it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think that the engine was turning over, but it was not starting, it is quite likely that it was not turning fast enough (as the battery didn't have enough charge) for the engine to start running by itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T15:24:45.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18288" CreationDate="2015-05-18T15:49:03.383" Score="5" ViewCount="29660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a &lt;strong&gt;1988 Mazda RX-7 non-turbo 5spd&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous owner claims the clutch was done last July(little under a year ago) and I have no reason to doubt such claims. I do believe the clutch release bearing was not installed correctly. When the clutch is not pushed in, there is a spaceship kind of noise(almost the noise a EV makes when accelerating). When I accelerate there is the same noise. However, when I put the clutch in the noise goes near silent. It gets louder the higher the RPM when in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am no mechanic, however after some searching on the internet it seems to be the clutch release/throwout bearing. I am pretty tight on money so I would like to hold back on the repair as long as possible without causing any serious damage. I can imagine that I would be racking up the labor costs and I am not equipped to do the job myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, what happens if the clutch release bearing completely fails? Will there be collateral damage to anything else or will I just find myself unable to shift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3823" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:00:12.437" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T01:35:52.150" Title="What will happen if the clutch release/throw out bearing fails?" Tags="|clutch|mazda|manual-transmission|rx7|throw-out-bearing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T16:41:04.187" Score="2" ViewCount="1746" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Tacoma has a lot of engine/oil black gunk around the bottom of the engine bay (below the battery and that area).  I'm talking about solid black. Could that be caused by a leaky oil pan gasket?  What else possibly could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:16:06.480" Title="Causes for engine/oil gunk around bottom of engine bay" Tags="|oil|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:02:01.353" Score="1" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering replacing all my tires with a set of slightly higher ones — installing 205/60R16 instead of 205/55R16.  My incentive is mostly availability of the particular model of tire I'm interested in, but gaining about 0.4&quot; in clearance would also be quite practical.  Apocryphal reports indicate that this size of tire will not scrape in the wheel wells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_tires/a/Plus-And-Minus-Sizing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;About.com&lt;/a&gt; mentions that &lt;em&gt;Your speedometer, odometer, traction control, torque and gearing settings are all based on the distance that your tire travels over one complete revolution.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be about a 3% change in overall radius (10mm added to about 310mm).  So 60 on the speedometer will be 62 in real life (actually probably more like 63-64 since my speedometer already reads slow).  This does not concern me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, is this a safe modification?  How will this affect traction control, torque, and gearing settings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for mechanics to recalibrate those systems to use a different size of tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="874" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T17:31:31.523" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T18:31:38.997" Title="Running 4 tires of a slightly larger section height than stock/recommended" Tags="|tires|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17042" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:19:30.987" Score="4" ViewCount="7688" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a frivolous question or a brain teaser...  But I've always wondered if it is possible to so skillfully remove the drain bolt from the bottom of an oil pan upon oil change as to not get any oil on your fingers or the socket/wrench being used?  Is there a &quot;trick&quot; or a &quot;move&quot; I don't know about because I get it on my hands every time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2023-09-29T18:09:36.660" Title="Is it possible to drain oil pan without getting any oil on your fingers?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16981" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:13:48.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description and comments, I'd suggest you have a dead spot in your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) right after idle (low end of the throttle). If the TPS is not reporting the correct throttle position, the computer will not lengthen the pulse width of the injector to give the engine more gas, which will in turn cause the engine to die. If you get the engine above this spot, it will rev fairly high and run at the higher RPM. This is just a theory, but should give you somewhere to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:13:48.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17034" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:16:06.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very well could be the oil pan gasket, but this could be caused from a leaky &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; on the engine. Look for where the highest point of where you see the gunk and start looking from that level. You should also be seeing some amount of gunk on the engine as well. If you really want to find it, do a thorough cleaning of the entire engine bay, then start looking for where the leak originates from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:16:06.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9124" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:18:49.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue.  One tire needed to be replaced, tire store told me I had to replace all 4.  Not wanting to give up good money for no reason, fearing they were just trying to get more money out of me, research led me to replace all 4 for better peace of mind and for a longer lasting Subaru.  But the tire place did tell me if I purchased the insurance on the tires, if one tire is destroyed they have to replace all 4 for free.  So call me a sucker, I purchased the insurance.  But I sleep easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.  I sell insurance for a living, so maybe that made it an easier sell for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10526" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:18:49.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17033" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:19:17.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the noise is only happening when the clutch is engaged (pedal out), it's not the throw out bearing. You'd only hear the noise when you push on the pedal. This is because the only time the throw out bearing is being used is when you are pushing the pedal down. It won't contact the clutch fingers any other time, and therefor cannot make noise with the clutch engaged. The noise you are suggesting indicates to me the front bearing in the transmission is on the way out (or has expired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To actually answer your question about the TOB ... If the TOB fails, it will ultimately be destroyed (assuming the TOB stops spinning as designed when engaged). When it stops spinning, it will in turn destroy the clutch fingers. This will entail a complete clutch replacement, sans the flywheel (unless it needs replaced for other reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T10:51:20.373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T10:51:20.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17037" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:35:23.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick is to wear oil proof gloves, like nitrile ones would provide. There are known carcinogens in used motor oil, so this is a good idea. Other than gloves, there is no &lt;em&gt;fool proof&lt;/em&gt; way to prevent getting oil on your hands &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; you change the oil. The nitrile also helps so you don't burn your hands on hot oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:35:23.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:58:07.427" Score="2" ViewCount="6060" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is coolant leaking from my 2007 Tacoma's radiator SOMEWHERE because there is leakage dripping from the lower right corner.  I saw it when I took the skid plate off to replace the serpentine belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I test that the leakage is indeed in the radiator and not some hose somewhere with liquid just flowing to the point from where it is dripping?  Can I disconnect all the hoses, drain the fluid, and pump it up (like a residential gas pipe) to test for fluid leaks, without actually taking the radiator out before I know it needs replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, my hopes are that the leak is coming either from the radiator or some hose and not blown head gasket. The engine gets overheated and the coolant resi tank boils soon after a fresh coolant/water refill, no froth on the dipstick or white smoke from the tail pipe, which would indicate coolant/oil mix and blown head gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:07:39.150" Title="How to test for radiator leaks?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:32:28.413" Score="4" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a new (well 2004) MG SZ 180 the other day and it turns out there is a small issue with it. After using the clutch in stop/start traffic, changing gear gets harder and harder until I end up either stuck in or out of gear. This can happen after just a mile or so of heavy traffic where 1st gear and reverse can get jammed completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the car in neutral at lights, junctions etc and even go as far as to coast up to light if I see it is red to reduce usage.  This is my 5th car and 2nd &quot;sporty&quot; car where I have never had clutch issues before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just had the master and slave replace so any suggestions would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after looking at the metal mount for the slave I can see come movement when using the clutch but it is about the same when hot or cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is it possible to get a mounting bracket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10527" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T16:09:57.153" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T16:09:57.153" Title="MG ZS 180 - overheating clutch" Tags="|clutch|overheating|mg|mg-zs|zs-180|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9048" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:49:34.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1-can treats up to 20 gallons. The can is 11 oz. which works out to .55 oz. per gallon.  Manufacturer recommends adding it to a full tank and then refueling when you get down to a half tank.  This keeps the treatment in the fuel as long as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10528" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:49:34.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T20:04:00.027" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a short squealing noise (sounds like a belt maybe?) when I start the engine, but not every time. It's been happening for a few weeks now. Last week my battery was dead so I replaced it, could there be a connection there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10529" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T21:06:54.253" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:11:44.767" Title="Daiwoo Kalos engine squeal on ignition" Tags="|noise|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17043" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:05:05.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have at least two options to find the leak. You can buy or rent a coolant system pressure tester. It is a small air pump that pressurizes the system to force coolant out of any weak (leak) points. The advantage to this method over just letting the engine  idle is because the engine is cool you can reach your hand around the system without getting burnt.  The disadvantage is for very small leaks it can take awhile for a drip to actually form. There are dyes that can be added to the coolant, the engine is then run and a black (ultra violet) light is used to locate the stain that will glow under the special light. This may be more useful for slow leaks as the dye stain will remain for several days. The minus side is depending on where the leak is the fan can blow the dye around and stain many places. I would check with your local parts store and see if they rent or loan pressure testers. I can think of very few cases where I couldn't find the leak with one. In some cases if the spark plugs are removed and the system pressured overnight you may find coolant leaking out the spark plug holes indicating a more serious problem than a hose radiator leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T21:07:39.150" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:07:39.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17046" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:11:44.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the squealing is most assuredly associated with the dead battery and symptoms you describe. What is probably happening is either the serpentine belt is worn out (hard to diagnose due to &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; it wears) and/or the tensioner pulley is not providing enough traction for the belt. On start-up, the alternator works overtime trying to charge the battery of the juice you just used to get the engine running. If the belt is making noise, this is caused from slippage. After a little bit when the battery is nearly charged the alternator isn't under as much load and the belt gets hot from the friction of slipping, it will usually stop making noise. As time goes on, the belt will make noise longer and longer upon start-up, usually due to the belt becoming more worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:11:44.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:44:03.387" Score="6" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my AC refrigerant professionally changed to Red Tek in my van. It worked well for 2 or 3 years but then stopped cooling. I successfully refilled with difficulty and it was fine for a further year but is no longer cooling.&#xA;I am supposed to have it to 33PSI on the low side, so when I check there with the engine off I see 32PSI, when I run the engine AC on and compressor running it reads 10PSI, when the compressors cycles off it goes up to 45PSI. Do I key on the 10PSI, engine, AC &amp;amp; compressor on and raise that pressure to 33?  Jack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10531" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:49:34.343" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:14:52.580" Title="1986 VW Westfalia van A/C" Tags="|vw|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2015-05-18T22:23:46.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's simply to keep up with trends . They see what's being done with cars by the generations that have passed. Each year new AFTER MARKET parts become new hot accessory, like TV's, chrome molding, &amp;amp; bigger rims. Gotta stay current, target the younger or more adventurous souls. Why should they allow you to spend more money with someone else when they can can get it all the first day you pull off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10534" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T22:23:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17054" CreationDate="2015-05-19T04:49:47.240" Score="11" ViewCount="107272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a 4 wheel alignment done on a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While taking it for a test drive, I noticed that the steering wheel is not quite centered for the vehicle to drive straight.  It's not pulling in either direction on it's own; it's just that &quot;straight&quot; for the vehicle is not exactly the same as &quot;centered&quot; for the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether or not it was like that before the alignment was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the vehicle is not pulling to either side, is this an alignment issue, or purely an issue with the steering wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it easily correctable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T01:05:01.097" Title="Steering wheel &quot;center&quot; different from vehicle &quot;straight&quot;" Tags="|steering|alignment|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17053" CreationDate="2015-05-19T05:41:21.287" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, that is the job of the shop where you did the alignment, not just the wheels they should also check if the steering is aligned with the position of the wheel (they are entitled to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can definitely take it to the station back and show them the problem; there is a good chance that the engineer might have forgotten to do the steering alignment (that's what I would do if I was in your situation).  Plus, for them its like a 10 minute job and they should not make a fuss about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a very good DIY on the net but it requires you to pull up your car on an ramp and I don't think many of us have ramps in our houses anyway, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749585&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150627153116/http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749585&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;archive&lt;/a&gt; if link broken) for information on how to DIY.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T17:39:27.417" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T17:39:27.417" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17037" CreationDate="2015-05-19T05:51:23.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hardly practical BUT there is a method that would work in some cases.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Think of it more as a party trick that a useful tip -  assuming you are up to holding parties under your vehicle. Whether this works will be design dependant - and also to some extent will depend on how closely you resemble the British standard 600  pound gorilla and what percentage of fast twitch muscle you have.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe area around sump plug with paper towel or rag or non finger contaminating cleaning system of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using your preferred drain bolt wrench, loosen drain bolt until it is finger tight. This is where the Gorilla verisimilitude can help - stronger fingers will render a larger percentage of drain bolts &quot;finger tight&quot; at any given position in the removal sequence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undo drain bolt while maintaining pressure in a vertical direction that optimises its sealing ability. Hopefully and ideally you have a drain bolt that will not leak when unscrewed to within a fraction of a turn of coming free, without needing any applied vertical pressure. Next most desirable is one which needs less than a gorilla-force of pressure upwards to keep it sealed. Next best is one needing downwards pressure (but you are then on shaky ground. And speed of unscrewing may play a part if the thread presents a marginal seal. &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;And&lt;/strong&gt; Murphy says that some will just leak before being fully unthreaded - them's the breaks - even for Gorillas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have  bolt / sump / gorilla arm combination that can get you to within a smidgeon of a turn of bolt release, the next step is quite easy, for certain limited ranges of &quot;quite&quot;. You &quot;simply&quot; (tm) turn the bolt the last bit of the way so that it &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; release and then, using whatever reserves of fast twitch muscle that you can muster, accelerate the bolt downwards at sufficiently in excess of 9.8 metres per second per second (or 32 feet per second per second if in the US) &lt;strong&gt;UNTIL&lt;/strong&gt; you are far enough clear of the sump that you can add increasing sideways velocity to &quot;whip&quot; the plug down and then out sideways and THEN curve it through 180 degrees so that oil on the plug does not manage to frustrate your purpose. This is definitely the place where the fast twitch muscle, party trickery and gorilla strength have to work together. Because - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above you'll note that the weasel words &quot;Sufficiently in excess&quot; were snuck in. &#xA;By itself, mano a mano between you an an oil drop, accelerating at just greater than 'g' (the aforesaid 9.8 m/s/s or 32 f/s/s) means that you will out accelerate an oil drop starting from standstill as it can only accelerate down wards by itself at the rate that gravity allows. However, oil drops are not usually by themselves but in the company of a plethora of oil drop each wanting to accelerate downwards. So you have &quot;head pressure&quot; as well as gravity. Truth be known, the head pressure should be very small compared to g, but Murphy has a way of using very small things amazingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be that as it may, assume you have out accelerated the dripping drop and all its mates. Your hand is now accelerating downwards at 1g in a confined space. Getting it smoothly sideways real rapid like is well advised. It has to maintain &gt;= 1g downwards for  as long as it is under the path of falling drops. After that you may decelerate BUT if you brake too hard the oil on the bolt will run up onto your hand and you will have lost, again. Experience, viscosity, sludge, available room, luck and Murphy will all play a part in the outcome. If you decelerate your hand by running it into a suspension member or other unyielding part of the vehicle you may regret having tried to outrun Murphy's oil drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translating the above into what you really do, and what it looks like, it comes out something like: Undo the bolt until it is 'just about' loose while maintaining oil tightness with pressure, if it works. Then, make the final micro-turn and whip your hand downwards in a smooth curve, initially nearly vertically downwards and then once clear bring it out horizontal and then in an upwardish curve while decelerating as hard as possible without allowing oil to be accelerated up the bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it work?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just tried it with a plastic milk bottle and a 3 litre orange-juice container plus water in each case. Both failed - neither cap sealed well enough when fully unthreaded given my degree of gorilla strength (not stunning). But given a fine-ish-pitch sump bolt, and reasonable thread length, and nicely thick &amp;amp; sludgy oil so leak rate is low, you may well win. Some of the time anyway :-). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9336" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T05:51:23.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16528" CreationDate="2015-05-19T05:57:30.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TVS Star city is a commuter level bike sold in INDIA. It has a very basic suspension set-up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yH97m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the pre-load using a wrench-  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will be a small lever on top of the suspension which is noticeable if you have the older version. However if you have the newer version, like shown in the above picture, then you need to open the rear cowl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said on finding the lever using the wrench twist it to the right which will soften the suspension and improve the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its already all the way to the right, then take it to the service station, they should remove the outer coil and replace it with a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improving the ride quality:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can improve the ride quality of the bike by upgrading to a better suspension, though you will have a hard time finding out which suspension suits you the most.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are three options I know you could go for. The main issue being that these might increase or decrese the ride height. I am listing out the closest  available suspension options  - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go with the Bajaj SNS suspension, widely available, the one with an&#xA;orange spring inside the main coil (for secondary damping) commonly&#xA;used in the discover range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go with the Baja pulsar 135 LS suspension which is gas charged and&#xA;will provide higher deal of comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A much better option and cheap on your purse/wallet would be to increase&#xA;the padding of the seat. This will make the ride a bit unstable at like&#xA;100kmph but I don't think you will ride anywhere near that&#xA;speed(considering the bike has around 9hp power). Your back will&#xA;thank you! We did the exact same thing on a Yamaha Libero and it&#xA;worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Please do not compare the Honda Dio suspension with the star city suspension. The Honda (mostly every scooter) has a tiny mono shock which is far softer and feels comfortable than the ones found in the bikes but it cannot handle heavy weights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T11:22:04.603" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T11:22:04.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6571" CreationDate="2015-05-19T06:35:41.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you live in india , Both of your tire choices are good but they have their own advantages and disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Michellin Sirac&lt;/strong&gt;(I personally owned this one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;An extremely good tyre for performance as they have softer compounds , they have high stability and you can acheive a better top speed like +3 or +4 to your current top speed and a better acceleration, exceptional cornering speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Poor tyre life , If you live in a place where the roads are not that good then be ready to face at least one puncture per 3 weeks. They threads though hold good but it gets puntchered way more frequently than say an &lt;strong&gt;MRF&lt;/strong&gt;.Life(~10k kms on bad roads)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ceat&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages:&lt;/strong&gt; A very good choice if you prefer traction over performances, very good to handle indian monsoon have good wet&#xA;traction but still prone to punctures(albeit not as much as the&#xA;Michellins), These somehow reduce tank slappers probably because of better tracion on hot indian roads.Life(~25k kms)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/strong&gt; Horrible for performance, you will get better traction but way less performance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Would also suggest go for MRFs they last long and provide all around better tracktion but purely upto the rider's choice at the end of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T06:35:41.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T07:29:55.703" Score="2" ViewCount="2042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1.8 TFSI A4, and it's making a whining noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's audible if you rev the engine, and when driving. Very pronounced at lower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you depress the clutch, it stops. But, if you rev it'll whine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going down an enclosed street, with the windows open, when you press the clutch it stops making the noise. If you then rev'd with the clutch still disengaged it'll make the same sort of noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the serpentine belt, or associated pulleys, because I've had that checked by a garage and with the belt removed it still made the noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what it might be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video of engine noise: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ysgOLFC_syM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ysgOLFC_syM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10536" LastEditorUserId="10536" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T12:34:32.600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T21:23:09.143" Title="Audi A4 (B8) Whine" Tags="|noise|audi|a4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25857" CreationDate="2015-05-19T08:31:43.350" Score="5" ViewCount="39100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a diesel common-rail 1.5l engined car. Lately I am facing an issue where the RPM needle is bouncing in the tachometer when the car is idling. The normal idling RPM is around 820. When idling, I can see the RPM fluctuating between 800-1000 rpm. This fluctuation is more evident when the AC is switched on. I can even hear some loud thud coming from the engine bay (due to the AC compressor) just when I turn on the AC, and along with the sound, the RPMs fluctuates even more.&#xA;Few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant is in the max level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The issue seems to be more evident if I turn on the lights as soon as I start the engine(cold start)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me out on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T04:19:12.320" Title="RPM bouncing when in idle, especially when AC in switched on" Tags="|ac|diesel|rough-idle|rpm|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17053" CreationDate="2015-05-19T08:55:22.323" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that your problem is caused by the incline of the road. The driving surface is not straight but slightly inclined to the sides for water drain (like this /\ ). So, in normal driving conditions, when driving straight, the steering wheel will be slightly tilted to the left (for right side driving). Go on an empty road and drive on the other side of the road and you will notice the steering wheel will be tilted slightly to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T08:55:22.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T12:40:08.560" Score="4" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Kia Rio and lately it has been showing signs the car is overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I switch off the car and switch it on again it runs fine. I find this very confusing because it does it maybe once in 3 days. I took it to the dealer to have it checked and all the checks come back negative. Is there maybe some air trapped in the cooling system? I am suspecting this because I realized my radiator cap was old and replaced it. The other mechanic I took it to said the gasket is blown, but I don't see any symptoms that suggest a blown Gasket. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10540" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T13:33:34.540" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T13:10:00.263" Title="Kia Rio Overheating" Tags="|kia|overheating|rio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7999" CreationDate="2015-05-19T13:53:51.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to replace solenoid switch, which is on Top of the Transmission Power Supply box.  The solenoid switch didn't hold power supply properly. I had this problem for a year like this my Dodge Caravan Minivan which has 178,000 Mile on it RPM 4800 when speed 70 MPH.  A Mechanic was telling me need to replace the transmission, which is $1800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon i replaced solenoid the issue was resolved and now the RPM's are about 2000 at 70MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch Cost was $289 include parts and Labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10541" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T20:07:44.003" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T20:07:44.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17037" CreationDate="2015-05-19T14:36:48.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To drain the oil pan without getting oil on your hands or wrench ... get a oil extractor pump and suck the oil out from the dipstick tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T14:36:48.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17037" CreationDate="2015-05-19T17:27:43.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few replacement options for the drain bolt that will assist with a clean oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nospillsystems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;No-Spill&lt;/a&gt; system has a hose that connects to the drain valve to route the oil to your vessel.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kujip.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kujip.png&quot; alt=&quot;No-Spill&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oildrainvalve.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fumoto&lt;/a&gt; system uses a lever type valve to initiate the flow of oil. They also have a model that allows attaching a hose and various angled outlet tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnYng.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Fumoto&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fram makes the SureDrain system which doesn't seem to have an official product page but can be seen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000BQY82E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. This is a hose activated system similar to No-Spill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9AlP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SureDrain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10066" LastEditorUserId="10066" LastEditDate="2023-09-29T18:09:36.660" LastActivityDate="2023-09-29T18:09:36.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17010" CreationDate="2015-05-19T18:22:55.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you suspect the head gasket, you should &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; change the oil. If it doesn't look right (it will look &quot;creamy&quot; or &quot;milky&quot; if there is any coolant in it) you should immediately stop driving it and get the head gasket replaced. You may also be able to tell simply by checking the oil dipstick, but I'd recommend draining the oil and replacing it as a precaution.  Unfortunately, I suspect this is the most likely explanation, since you say the car heats up quickly. A sticking thermostat won't cause that, although a blocked radiator or malfunctioning cooling fan might. If you get coolant in your oil, it can destroy your engine, which is why I recommend doing this step first. If the oil is OK then I think you're on track with the rest of your plan. I'd also recommend checking the fuse and relay for your cooling fan. These are quick and easy to check (and fix), so it would make sense to look at those before you spend much time and money on other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T18:22:55.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17036" CreationDate="2015-05-19T18:31:38.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's possible to recalibrate the systems for a different tire size, but it shouldn't be necessary for such a small change. Most emergency spare tires are smaller than the standard vehicle tires and they don't hurt anything. That said, be careful if your vehicle has a limited-slip differential or all-wheel drive, those &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be damaged if you have wheels with different diameters. Obviously not an issue if you're replacing all four tires, but if your car has a full-sized spare because it's AWD, consider replacing that tire too, even though it's probably unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T18:31:38.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4490" CreationDate="2015-05-19T20:33:35.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason is that cars are heavier than they used to be due mostly to safety and emissions requirements. My 2003 Mini (not all that new) a car weighs 2800ish pounds replaced a 2200ish pound 1985 Civic that was pretty similar in size (the Civic actually had slightly more interior room).  Heavier cars need bigger tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T20:33:35.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T01:49:11.937" Score="4" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 63 Impala, and got a new master cylinder in. The 63 has a single brake line, but the new master has two ports. The manufacturer included a plug for the extra port if it's not needed, but when I put the plug in and tightened it down solidly, it still leaks brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the right way to seal the threads? Will Teflon tape work or will the brake fluid dissolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5009" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T18:02:08.080" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:17:38.197" Title="Master cylinder leak" Tags="|brakes|leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17075" CreationDate="2015-05-20T03:59:16.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use teflon tape. It will likely get dissolved or possibly cause contaminants in your brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the leaky plug; I am pretty sure the plugs are designed to prevent leaks, are you sure it is seated correctly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people weld/solder those plugs before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastEditorUserId="6333" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T03:01:01.530" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T03:01:01.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17059" CreationDate="2015-05-20T05:36:38.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Problem can be with the engine not getting enough ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; In your car the ECU is programmed to raise the rpm when it detects a stall or the RPM dropping down so if there is problem with your air filter which is not allowing much air into the engine and causing a stall but not noticeable your ECU will fight it to keep it in working range.This causes the RPM to bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution&lt;/strong&gt; : Clean up your air filter and check for any clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Air Con part is pretty standard &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T10:14:41.230" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:14:41.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16983" CreationDate="2015-05-20T06:05:00.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your suspension compresses fully even in small bumps then try changing the pre-load and tighten your suspension be careful as to not tighten it too much as it will make bike bouncy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are convinced that your suspension is broken(&lt;em&gt;do check with your mechanic and confirm , you might not know if its really broken since the suspension comes in two parts the coil and damper&lt;/em&gt;) which I don't suspect then read the below pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem with your bike is that it has a duel suspension setup so&#xA;you cannot change just one you need to change both but since your&#xA;bike is relatively new I would suggest changing the bad one first and checking if the ride is good since the other one is also relatively new.If your ride is weird then change both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Not all Honda shines have this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;According to the warranty parts your suspension is not covered but check with the showroom since the bike is new the showroom people &lt;strong&gt;Might&lt;/strong&gt; again  &lt;strong&gt;Might&lt;/strong&gt; fix it for free(or a minimal charge) since I had an issue with the rear sprocket after 800 kms and they fixed it for free.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And Yes it will be a permanent solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T06:05:00.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17080" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:05:31.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;turbocharger&lt;/strong&gt; (technically a &lt;strong&gt;turbosupercharger&lt;/strong&gt;) is a type of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/forced-induction&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;forced-induction&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;forced-induction&lt;/a&gt; device used to increase the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/power&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;power&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;power&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/efficiency&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;efficiency&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;efficiency&lt;/a&gt; of an &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/engine&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;engine&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;engine&lt;/a&gt;.  It works by using the engine's &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/exhaust&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;exhaust&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;exhaust&lt;/a&gt; flow to drive a turbine, which powers a compressor, which forces more air into each &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cylinder&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cylinder&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cylinder&lt;/a&gt; than would otherwise be able to enter.  The increased amount of air allows more &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fuel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuel&lt;/a&gt; to be burned, increasing the engine's power and allowing for the use of a smaller, lighter engine. As the air entering the cylinders is already precompressed, the functional &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/compression&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;compression&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;compression&lt;/a&gt; ratio of the engine increases (although the compression ratio &lt;em&gt;within the cylinders themselves&lt;/em&gt; is typically decreased slightly), making the engine more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, turbochargers were seen only on &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/racing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;racing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;racing&lt;/a&gt; vehicles and top-end sports cars; nowadays, however, many automobiles use them due to their power and efficiency advantages. Some holdout manufacturers still produce internal combustion vehicles without turbochargers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A turbocharger is similar to a mechanical &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/super-charger&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;super-charger&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;super-charger&lt;/a&gt;, which drives the compressor from the engine's &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crankshaft&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crankshaft&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crankshaft&lt;/a&gt;.  A turbocharged engine can be slightly more efficient than a non-turbocharged engine because it uses energy that would otherwise have been wasted out the tailpipe. Turbochargers work best at higher engine speeds; a mechanical supercharger, on the other hand, works well even at low engine speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of a turbocharger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nI1Ru.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nI1Ru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36092" LastEditorUserId="33024" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T10:50:56.657" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T10:50:56.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17081" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:05:31.027" Score="0" Body="An exhaust-driven forced-induction device that increases an engine's power output and efficiency." OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="36092" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T09:55:07.860" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T09:55:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:14:35.063" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was spraying Lysol into the cabin air intake (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the engine intake) right under windshield wipers while running the fans, and after doing this for several minutes (fans on the whole time, Lysol sprays periodic) I went to start the car and it barely turned over. Once it started, there were a couple really bad smells (like burning/melting?) coming out from either the vent or the engine... I couldn't tell which because my windows were wide open and it only lasted a few seconds. There was also a rough idle so I revved the engine for a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only think of a few things:&#xA;1) the Lysol had something to do with it&#xA;2) the battery was nearly dead from running the fans, and giving a little gas while trying to start it had some effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might have happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="9501" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T07:22:26.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T08:48:05.243" Title="BMW e46 problems after Lysol in air intake" Tags="|engine|bmw|rough-idle|smell|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:20:54.610" Score="2" ViewCount="5591" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cabin vents smell like mold and mildew. It's worse during humid days. I'm pretty sure the AC has something to do with it (since it smells bad when I turn the AC off and keep the fans blowing) but maybe there are are multiple problems that all seem like one. Time doesn't seem to really fix it, and I don't actually use the AC very often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked this up on many forums and there isn't really a consensus. I've heard spraying with Lysol and cleaning out the entire AC system as two main options. Lysol basically just masks it for a while. Replacing the cabin air filter doesn't really do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What's the best way to fix the cabin air vent smell?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:19:02.263" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:20:16.740" Title="BMW e46 cabin air vent smells" Tags="|ac|bmw|hvac|heater|smell|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T00:11:02.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:51:42.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is to fight the problem, not the symptoms. Lysol only lasts for a while and the bad smell will return eventually. The AC is the cause of the bad smell and you should refill the AC system. I don't know for sure, but the gas you might need could be Freon. Check the vehicles owner manual to be sure though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you get started, put your car on jack stands and check for any leaks in your AC system (cracks in hoses, tubes that have worn out). After this you should bleed the AC system and recharge it with the proper gas. It might cost a few bucks, but after this you'll have an AC without the smell and the air will be cooler too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/title6/609/recharge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/title6/609/recharge.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; After rereading your question, I noticed you mention that the smell is still there if you turn the AC off and keep the fans on. Try to clean your interiour (cabin) filter first, before you bleed your whole AC system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="10048" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T08:31:19.290" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T08:31:19.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2015-05-20T07:56:19.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it, your pollen filter is filthy and should be cleaned or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T07:56:19.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17082" CreationDate="2015-05-20T08:48:05.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case you had the engine off while the fans were on, your car was in the &quot;ON&quot; state, which powers all the electric systems of your car. The fans were consuming most of the power which have drained the battery very quickly. You've started your car right on time to retain just as less energy as was needed to get your engine running again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell you noticed while you started the car could be related to spill of the Lysol on the engine or heated/moving parts of it. This could have burned which would explain the smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T08:48:05.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16937" CreationDate="2015-05-20T09:14:16.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes are for driving and not to keep it idling. the best thing to do is to switch off the engine instead of keeping it idling. that will save some fuel as well!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T09:14:16.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16987" CreationDate="2015-05-20T09:20:17.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starting an engine, the battery should have a minimum voltage of 9V and above. if that is not available, then starter will be able to crank the engine, albeit weakly but would not be able to start the car. Low battery voltage can happen due to a defective battery or because of quiescent current consumption that drains the battery. Generally Battery is required only for starting the vehicle and powering the components when engine is not running. in all other cases, it is the alternator that provides the electrical energy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T09:20:17.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17075" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:42:37.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teflon tape will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; dissolve and &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; seal the plug, unless there is a larger issue with the plug itself or it's not seating correctly. It could also be, you just don't have the plug tight enough. Secondarily, you did use the correct port on the master?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Telfon itself, because of its chemical makeup, it is one of the most non-reactive substances known to man. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a great article on it, but basically, for Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE - the chemical name of the Dupont trademark Teflon) the only chemicals known to affect it are reactive metals like alkali metals. There is nothing like it in brake fluid or the metals in the master or plug (I know this because if there were, our human skin would not stand up to it either). According to the Wiki article, Teflon maintains high strength, toughness and self-lubrication at low temperatures down to 5 K (−268.15 °C; −450.67 °F), and good flexibility at temperatures above 194 K (−79 °C; −110 °F). I'm not sure where people get the idea it will be dissolved by any fluid in an automobile or pretty much anything we have around the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:42:37.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T11:24:15.203" Score="4" ViewCount="3376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my honda civic d15z4 engine with a d16A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, VTEC engages at 5500rpm on these engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is still practically standard, I'm not sure if it does switch over, if it does, the sound is very subtle, but I'm not sure that the place I bought the engine from gave my mechanic a matching ECU (I'm not sure whether I would need the same ECU to run this engine in my car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, will the VTEC switch over happen without the PBB-J61 ECU that the d16A was released with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:55:08.703" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:55:08.703" Title="Will vtec engage without a factory released VTEC ECU when swapping to VTEC engine?" Tags="|honda|civic|electronic-control-module|conversion|vtec|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17125" CreationDate="2015-05-20T11:28:04.547" Score="1" ViewCount="3145" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the winter period, a driver on the other side of the road crashed into his predecessor. A bumper was launched from that point and smacked right into the lower left side of my car, resulting in a hardly noticeable dent (which is not worth repairing) and a crack in the sideskirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this sideskirt is composed of ABS plastic, what would be the easiest way to repair this cracked skirt? Simply replacing it by another skirt is not an option as this one is hard to get your hands on. The sideskirt has a diagonal crack of about 7cm (2.8inches) and is not completely broken.. yet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; As requested by Paulster, I have added some pictures of the crack. The car is a 2001 Toyota Celica (not really relevant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt6tq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crack from the front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDAEA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;At an angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the first picture, the crack ends about 1cm from the top.&#xA;On the bottom side (not in the picture) the crack ends about 10 cm from the edge. At this point the skirt is not completely broken, though the cracked part is a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="10048" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T06:13:36.317" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T07:32:29.227" Title="Sideskirt repair" Tags="|repair|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17090" CreationDate="2015-05-20T11:37:30.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you will need a compatible ECU for your new engine. The ECU reads multiple signals from your engine and will change your camshafts timing accordingly. When your engine gets high rpm, your valve timings should be adapted to get the VTEC boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T11:37:30.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12007" CreationDate="2015-05-20T11:41:07.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never had an oil pan plug leak until I got a Subaru. My 1966 Plymouth still has the original seal. Both Subaru leaked until I replace the crush seal. Buy them in a 10 pack and they are cheap. It does not matter whether they are steel or aluminum. Torque the plug to 31 lb/ft and live leak free. Subaru from 2004 forward have a bottom cover so leaks are not easily seen. Replace the seal and live trouble free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10554" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T11:41:07.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17097" CreationDate="2015-05-20T12:09:58.573" Score="4" ViewCount="26223" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a previously owned &lt;strong&gt;2009 YAMAHA FZ16-S&lt;/strong&gt; that I'm thinking of picking up. It has a slightly twisted and bent fork (plausibly caused by an accident). It's only apparent when you ride it for a bit. Upon pressing down hard on the front suspension, one can see faint amounts of oil on the fork legs (seal compromised?). I've taken it to a few mechanics who have confirmed this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe it can be fixed by taking it apart and straightening it with a &lt;strong&gt;hydraulic press&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Though the cost of getting this done is measly, I've gotten varying opinions from different mechanics on the degree of success for this operation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The integrity of the frame and safety is paramount to me and I intend on riding this bike over long distances.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would like to know the details of the &lt;strong&gt;fork-straightening&lt;/strong&gt; process (whether there are different approaches and procedures?) and general recommendations for carrying out this process/discern if it's beyond repair.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T12:28:05.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T18:03:53.443" Title="Bent front fork on a bike" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|forks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17094" CreationDate="2015-05-20T12:37:37.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes your oil seal is broken , get than fixed asap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork Bending on the FZ-S is a very common issue , though its a 43mm&#xA;fork it bends quite easily, so slight bend might have caused due to&#xA;driving fast onto a pothole or an accident as you say.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are two things you can do for this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes you can fix it but it will be still noticeable(if you know someone who does it then it might be close to perfect else you will still have a small bend) These slight bends wont affect your everyday riding much and definitely should not cause any safety issues since its not a fast bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are extremely concerned  and want a perfectly straight handlebar then either you have to be friends with the guy with the hydraulic press or ignore this bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As for how the fork bends are removed , different shops use different machines for example most(Indian) shops use a rudimentary hydraulic piston with a pivot and a manual inspection of the forks by straightening slowly , this is the cheapest way to do and thus causing less precision.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I would also consider replacing the entire fork set which would solve this whole issue once and for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T12:37:37.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17090" CreationDate="2015-05-20T13:56:13.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;VTEC - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Variable Timing and Lift Electronic Control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VTEC requires the ability to understand the state of the environment and motor in order to change the valve timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various sensors from oxygen, engine rpm, barometric pressure, engine temperature, air temperature, oil pressure, throttle position effect the the various timing events of a VTEC engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel shot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cam timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these inputs effect how and when the ECU will control oil pressure to effect cam profiles at various rpm's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU for the correct motor is necessary in order for the VTEC system to function properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are model years and series that have overlap in which an engine may perform reasonably with a different model year engine but it is highly recomended that ECU match the year and model for which it is designed.  The ECU will require the matching harness as well as there are additional input sensors on VTEC engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T13:56:13.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17094" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:14:07.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Fork Straightening&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Process&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The slider and internal oil valving are removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stanchion (inner fork tube) is placed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://its.foxvalleytech.com/MachShop3/images/mill/vblck2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v-blocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicator_%28distance_amplifying_instrument%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dial indicator&lt;/a&gt; is used to detect deflection as the stanchion is rotated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once deflection is understood a hydraulic press is used to bend the stanchion back to its original state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The process of measurement and bending with the press is repeated until a minimum amount of deflection can be detected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Risk&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stanchion has been repeatedly straitened has undergone enough stress cycles as to degrade the integrity of the tube.  This, obviously, is undesirable.  This can be detected by lubricating the tube slightly and running your hand up and down the tube to detect anomolies in the surface.  Any surface anomolies on the stanchion will result in ongoing fork seal issues.  As the fork seal passes by the surface anomoly it will quickly degrade the seal or allow oil to pass by resulting in oil leaks that can effect the brake rotor or tire surface which, in both cases, could prove to be a safety issue for the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Opinion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally straightened many stanchions at shops and at home with excellent results.  Another avenue for remediation is to simply replace the stanchion AND the plain bearings within the slider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T18:03:53.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:19:33.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air Vent Odor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue is bacteria in the ventilation system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not related to charging the air conditioning system as some have indicated.  They are separate systems and you do not get Freon in your cabin by using the air conditioner.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ONLY way to attack the problem IMO, is to;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the vents from under the dash and clean them out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change any air filters for the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knuckling down and tearing it apart to clean it is the only true path.  Anything else is less is a temporary (short term) solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:20:16.740" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:20:16.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16988" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:48:49.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Possible Issues&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low probability - The oil in the forks is too high of a weight.  'Thicker' higher weight oil would make the forks seem very stiff.  As your motorcycle is relatively new and more than likely came with forks assembled from the factory, this is probably not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compression Dampening is too high - If you have a setting at the top of the forks where you can change the compression dampening to a lower setting, this may resolve your issue.  Having compression dampening set too high can cause the symptoms your describe.  Compression dampening is variable on most motorcycles and I am unsure if your model has this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riding Style - If you are using your breaks when your wheel goes into a pothole then you are riding your motorcycle improperly and will experience the symptoms you are describing related to the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Howto Ride a Motorcycle on Rough Terrain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand on the footpegs, protect your spine by standing on the footpegs or lifting your ass off the seat a bit using your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unweight the front end - If your going over holes, stand up on the footpegs and stay off the brakes as you travel over the hole.  Do your best to avoid the hole, of course, but if you cannot make sure you are NOT BRAKING as you travel over the pothole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply gas - As you pass over large bumps or holes applying the gas in a lower gear to lift the front end a bit will reduce the chances of getting a 'bang' on your handlebars or front end.  Y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Watch motorcross riders - get on youtube and watch how to ride on dirt. In many cases you will give gas to go over bumps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is the key, you don't want all of your weight transfered to the front of the motorcycle when you hit bumps and holes.  You want the weight transferred as much to the rear wheel as you possible can.  USE YOUR THROTTLE!  UNWEIGHT THE FORKS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO this is riding technique issue and not a mechanical one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T14:48:49.210" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17432" CreationDate="2015-05-20T15:41:21.500" Score="2" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Suzuki SX4 (61k miles) has just started doing something odd that makes me a bit worried. There is an oscillating, deep sound that varies with the speed that I drive. It almost sounds like the sound an unbalanced washing machine makes on spin cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of like &quot;whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh&quot;, a very deep sound, oscillating at about 2 Hz when I am moving around 10 MPH, and 30 Hz or so when I'm moving around 60 MPH. Accompanied with the &quot;whoosh&quot; at low speeds is a noticeable lurch. The whole car seems to get caught on something whenever I hear a &quot;whoosh&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 months ago (before this started) I took the car in for an oil change, and I had them check the brakes and fluid levels. They said the tires were extremely bald and had dry rot, so I had them all replaced. They also said the tie rod had come loose, and had repaired it. They said the brakes were fine, but I haven't replaced them in 4ish years so I'm a bit skeptical. I'm going to take it back in soon to correct this problem and change the oil again, but I'd like some background to know what to tell them.&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10555" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:15:53.753" Title="2006 Suzuki SX4 Vibration/Lurch/Sound" Tags="|suzuki|noise|vibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17101" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:12:16.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T16:12:16.637" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T16:12:16.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17102" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:12:16.637" Score="0" Body="The MG Car Company Limited was a British manufacturer founded in 1924" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T20:21:06.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:21:06.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17103" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:12:58.130" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T16:12:58.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T16:12:58.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17104" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:12:58.130" Score="0" Body="The MG ZS is a sports family car. The ZS is essentially a tuned version of the Rover 45" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T20:20:59.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:20:59.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17105" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:15:12.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T16:15:12.580" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T16:15:12.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17106" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:15:12.580" Score="0" Body="The MG ZS 180 with a 2.5-litre V6 engine was available as a 5-door hatch or a 4-door saloon" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T20:20:45.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:20:45.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17108" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:53:55.480" Score="5" ViewCount="1789" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been heavy rain and yesterday I couldn't start my bike. The main and other fuses are not blown. I ride it regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the bike on: &lt;a href=&quot;https://vid.me/pYNw&quot;&gt;https://vid.me/pYNw&lt;/a&gt;. The high-pitch noise is not typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hitting and holding the ignition switch, pointing to where I think the sound is from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://vid.me/lak6&quot;&gt;https://vid.me/lak6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what's making this noise and why the bike won't start? Spark plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10556" LastEditorUserId="10556" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T17:29:16.543" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T00:43:50.690" Title="Honda CBR 250 won't start after heavy rains, puttering noise" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17107" CreationDate="2015-05-20T17:09:48.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if the starter solenoid is getting 'stuck' due to low voltage.  That is the second buzzing noise.  The high pitched sound is your fuel pump priming your system and is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the rain created a grounding situation that drained your battery a bit.  Regardless of that speculation, here is the fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charge the battery.  I believe that is all you will have to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to jump start your bike off a car w/ jumper cables&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;DO NOT START THE CAR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional amperage from the alternator can potential cook your battery by charging it too fast, hence the recommendation to simply use the car batter alone.&#xA;Leave the car off and just jump start your bike.  Ride the bike for 10 or 15 minutes and when you get home turn it off and try and start it on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My prediction is that it will be fine and the battery will be charged from your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T00:43:50.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:37:21.080" Score="1" ViewCount="1874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Ford p/u F-250 Superduty.  I parked on a decline and I noticed the next day there was a very slow drip from where the drive shaft enters the rear end. Is this just a seal that needs to be replaced or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastEditorUserId="11438" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T08:36:48.760" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T08:36:48.760" Title="Small drip from the rear end of Ford F-250" Tags="|ford|leak|rear-differential|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17116" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:12:55.820" Score="3" ViewCount="7953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been burnt by stripped threads on a couple of occasions now, so knowing that metal putty could be used to re-tap a brand new thread in aluminum would be reassuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_6187.html?OpenDocument&amp;amp;land=gb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liqui Moly Metal Putty&lt;/a&gt;. The data sheet says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Liqui Moly Metal Putty is a firmly adherent, 2-component epoxy resin&#xA;  putty with very high chemical resistance. Liqui Moly Metal Putty is&#xA;  ideally suitable for permanent, quick repairs such as sealing cracks&#xA;  or repairing damaged threaded holes in iron, cast iron and other&#xA;  surfaces. Also suitable for magnesium. After curing, the repaired site&#xA;  can be further processed by milling or grinding etc. and painted over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of mention of aluminum here is a bit little strange. I don't expect there to be any issues in using the product with aluminum, but as I haven't tried it I cannot be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I being overly cautious, or is there a reason to be concerned here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:47:14.030" Title="Can metal putty be used to repair stripped threads in aluminum castings?" Tags="|repair|stripped-thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17115" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:39:01.620" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small gas engine without a (human usable) throttle control system. I want to fix this oversight. I have located the throttle system on the engine, and figured out if I push it one way it revs up and the other it revs down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these assemblies always come with springs that allows the engine to adjust its own throttle in such a way as to maintain a more even running of the engine. I am just not exactly sure how that works, and how I can add on a controlling lever in such a way as to not interfere in this normal variation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the string just help rev the engine up when it goes too low? So if I attached a string that pulled up the minimum throttle amount, but allowed the engine to go higher it would work as intended? Or do I just attach a control wire to a spring attached to the throttle? So I can push or pull the throttle, but there is give in the line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10558" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:37:40.727" Title="Small Gas Engine Throttle" Tags="|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:52:18.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2011 Chevy Malibu LT (4 cyl, 2.4L, 6 spd. automatic) and have been experiencing this problem for the past year and a half.  Basically, whenver its &lt;s&gt;hot (90f+) and&lt;/s&gt; humid out, my car exhibits loss of engine power between 2100 and 2500 RPM. Its a very strange problem that is hard to reproduce so I haven't taken it to a mechanic, I'd like to tackle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm gently accelerating, I'll hit somewhere between 2100 and 2500 RPM and the RPMs will drop to 2100 and bounce back up to 2500, repeatedly, as if I'm tapping the gas in ~1 second intervals. If I continuously but gently apply more throttle, it seems to have no effect until the point where the car actually downshifts to accellerate hard.  Once the vehicle downshifts, I'm up above 2500 RPM and running fine.  Once I hit that same RPM range again, the problem reoccurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note, my average MPG reads 21.5 on a vehicle that should get 26/33 MPG.  Then again, I drive pretty hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This only occurs between 2100 and 2500 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;It must be over 90 degrees f. outside&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It must be humid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It occurs in all gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No apparent sputtering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPMs bounce from 2100 to 2500 as if I'm tapping the gas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No check engine light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This problem never shows up in the winter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the first thing Im going to do is clean my MAF. I also think some other possible causes may be my O2 sensor and ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think? Has anyone encountered a problem like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Cleaned MAF sensor, issue still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: Today it was raining and 80 degrees and the problem happened again. I saw that my long-term fuel trim was actually at about -12 at idle and between -10 and -20 while driving. Normally my LTFT stays between -5 and 5. Any insights? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 3: Problem reoccurred today, it was only 64 degrees and had recently rained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 4: I forgot to update this 3 years ago, but I sold the vehicle to a dealership and got a truck about a month after this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10560" LastEditorUserId="10560" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T21:39:06.593" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T21:39:06.593" Title="Loss of engine power between 2100 and 2500 RPM on humid days - 2011 Malibu" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-consumption|malibu|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17109" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:25:24.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this would just be the differential seal leaking. Unfortunately, it is a little harder to replace than just pulling the drive shaft and input yoke and replacing the seal. There is a value called &lt;em&gt;preload&lt;/em&gt; which must be applied to the nut which holds the yoke onto the pinion gear. If this is not applied correctly, the rear-end has a propensity to start making a lot of noise. It causes the ring/pinion gears to contact each other correctly which ultimately causes wear on the gears and can cause gear failure if left uncorrected for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something you normally want to leave for a shop to do so it gets done correctly in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:25:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17111" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:37:40.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way the small engine throttle works is by a spring and vane system. The spring pulls on the throttle to increase engine speed. The vane is there to catch the air flow coming off of the engine fan and counteracts the force of the spring. These two actions create a balancing act which keeps the engine running at the desired speed. As the engine speeds up, the air from the fan blows harder, which pushes the vane. As the engine slows down, the spring is allowed to pull harder on the throttle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to increase the running speed of the engine, the easiest way to accomplish this is to extend the mounting point of the spring, which allows it to pull harder against the throttle and the vane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attach a string (or something else to pull up the slack a little more), you'll set the lower limit of travel as to where the engine will run at. If the engine were under a bunch of load and slowed down, the throttle plate in the carb would open up to allow more air in. I think your idea would work fairly well, with minor drawbacks, but it would also be dependent upon the end goal (if you want it to run faster or what). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Craftsman lawnmower with a B&amp;amp;S engine on it. One of the front fairings had broken off and exposed the area just above the carburetor where the spring resides. Through running it around the yard, the mounting point of the spring was bumped which effectively shortened the space between it and where the spring attached to the throttle mechanism. It began to run slower as a result and didn't have the same power output. I realized what the problem was and pulled the mounting piece back further, which not only fixed the issue, but actually allowed the engine to run a little bit faster. I think if your ultimate goal is to run the engine a little stronger, remounting the spring further away or spacing the spring out a little further would be a better option, but that would just be my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:37:40.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17110" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:47:14.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lack of the word &lt;em&gt;aluminum&lt;/em&gt;. I don't think you'd have any issue using it in aluminum though. I think that falls under &lt;em&gt;other surfaces&lt;/em&gt; portion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fix, if at all possible, I'd use something to the effect of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00K3263WY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helicoil&lt;/a&gt; instead. It will have a lot better longevity than the putty would. The kit in the link has several different sizes to work with. You can get kits of a single size. Also, Helicoil is just one brand ... there are others out there as well. Helicoil has been around a long time and has a great reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:47:14.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2015-05-20T21:26:38.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Here is what solved the same problem for BMW E39:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cause: The smell is due to bacteria in the air-duct. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solution: To solve it you need something with antiseptic action to eradicate the bacteria. There are many &lt;em&gt;Antibacterial Cleaners for Automobile Ventilation System&lt;/em&gt;, however, I used &lt;strong&gt;simple and cheap&lt;/strong&gt; pharmaceutical &lt;em&gt;Salicylic alcohol 2%&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procedure: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;empty the &lt;em&gt;Salicylic alcohol 2%&lt;/em&gt; into any available window spray container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray into both ends of the ventilation system, for the outside end, firstly remove the air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, turn on your air conditioning for, at least, 15 minutes on heating mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I did this 3 years ago when I bought the car and there is still no smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T21:26:38.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17119" CreationDate="2015-05-20T21:43:57.507" Score="4" ViewCount="4102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the hub bearings are making a noise and sound ready for a change, however, the noise is more mechanical and is spread via the chassis, making it very difficult to understand where exactly it's coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to determine which one, or more, of the 4 hub bearings is (are) due for a change? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2W5c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T02:59:54.987" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:17:28.777" Title="How can I tell which hub bearing is making a noise?" Tags="|noise|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17118" CreationDate="2015-05-20T23:41:25.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since when a wheel bearing goes bad you can feel it more than you can hear it, and there usually isn't any deflection in the wheel itself until the bearing is pretty much shot, the way I usually check for the bad bearing is with an automotive stethoscope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khX4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the car up on jack stands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the wheel off of the car (if you need to loosen the wheel before jacking, do so)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the stethoscope tip on knuckle (the portion the wheel bearing is inside of)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; You may need to take the caliper and rotor off of the hub to get a clear shot at the knuckle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the hub and listen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are listening, you should be able to tell pretty quickly if it has the bad bearing or not. It will sound &lt;em&gt;crunchy&lt;/em&gt; as you are turning it. A good bearing should sound relatively smooth as you turn the hub. You'll want to perform the same to both sides. You may be able to tell a difference, but there's always the chance that &lt;em&gt;both sides&lt;/em&gt; need bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T23:41:25.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17027" CreationDate="2015-05-21T06:02:05.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not go under the LOAD RATING.  Use the manufacturer's recommended load rating as a minimum, and do not go under that minimum.  In some cases, you will &quot;feel&quot; the car ride differently, and it can even begin to handle dangerously (wallowing in turns, back-end kick-out, etc). This can increase risk of spinout a high speeds, as well as increasing rollover risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed rating does not matter so much - but load rating is crucial.  Often - they are paired, so that picking a lower speed rating puts you at a lower load rating also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10562" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T06:02:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17033" CreationDate="2015-05-21T06:05:34.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the TOB fails, you will usually hear a loud grinding or squealing when you depress the clutch pedal.  Eventual failure will destroy the clutch pressure plate, and clutch disk, and could possibly damage the throwout bearing lever, which could punch a hole in your bell-housing, or damage your flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10562" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T06:05:34.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17122" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-21T06:09:38.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions relating to vehicles made or driven in India.&#xA;Most of the bikes are made and available only in India and are not suited for use in other parts of the world.&#xA;Cars sometime though share the same platform with the global market are made keeping low cost in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T08:24:53.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T08:24:53.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17123" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-21T06:09:38.850" Score="0" Body="Tag about the vehicles available in India." OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T08:25:01.307" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T08:25:01.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17091" CreationDate="2015-05-21T07:32:29.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use acetone to &lt;em&gt;melt and weld&lt;/em&gt; ABS plastic. Simply apply acetone to the broken edges and hold them together firmly. You could then reinforce it from behind the skirt by using epoxy (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;loctite?&lt;/a&gt;) to glue improvised braces.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternatively, you could use scrap ABS as braces and stick them using acetone as well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YIV0XVkkPE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; among many other instructional videos showing exactly that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T07:32:29.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17126" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-21T10:40:59.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An acronym, which in the context of this website, most commonly refers to engine speed. RPM = revolutions per minute of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 RPM = 2π/60 Radians per second = 2*180/60 degrees per second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T20:55:33.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:55:33.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17127" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-21T10:40:59.113" Score="0" Body="RPM = number of Revolutions Per Minute. Most commonly an acronym for engine crankshaft speed." OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T20:57:02.410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:57:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:37:44.250" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found out that my car was recalling after read the news.  My dealer never told that my car was recalling. My car was recalling last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was doing some research and found out that most dealer most likely won't repair my car for free if my car was more than 10 years old from the purchased date.  I bought my car at 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone you successfully get your car repair after recalling although your car is more than 10 years old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10561" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:37:44.250" Title="My car was recalling but my car is already more than 10 years old. Repair free?" Tags="|repair|safety|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-21T17:33:00.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2015-05-21T17:24:20.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check to make sure no power wire is near the spark plug wires. That's caused similar sound for me in my '88 civic wagon with aftermarket stereo. RPM dependant, almost like a turbo whine hahah. 3yrs old but maybe this could help someone else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10566" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T17:24:20.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17139" CreationDate="2015-05-21T17:46:15.727" Score="4" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired this very used truck. It seemed to be able to run (albeit by burning transmission and coolant, but that's a different thread) but I wanted to ask if anyone could ID these wires? I could not find a port for them to attach to. It looks like they are coming off that thick cable of wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s6WZp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drivers side of engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more pictures from this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X7QtU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXctB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View from drivers side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10568" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:35:23.900" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T13:35:23.900" Title="Loose wires in 1993 5.0 V8 F150 Engine" Tags="|engine|ford|f-150|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17136" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:24:18.687" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking it would be nice if I could look at the valves without having to take too much stuff apart.  Could I thread a small endoscope down through the air intake and be able to see the top / backside of a valve?  Could I put one ( bent backwards ) down the spark plug hole to see the cylinder side of the valve?  It would be cool if I could do a before and after of how cruddy the valves are when I &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16486/what-are-some-seafoam-alternatives&quot;&gt;psuedo-seafoam&lt;/a&gt; the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:27:19.037" Title="Look at the Valves Without Taking Everything Apart" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17133" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:35:18.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T18:35:18.953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T18:35:18.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17134" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:35:18.953" Score="0" Body="Electrical device which, when energised by a small electrical current, safely switches a larger electrical current." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T22:07:45.230" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T22:07:45.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17090" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:03:06.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any VTEC ECU should work as long as the VTEC solenoid is connected and wired to the ECU.  I have a 94 integra with a B18C1 (DOHC VTEC).   When I bought the car it had an ECU for a SOHC VTEC engine.  VTEC would still engage.  You might be able to test it with a test light on the pigtail for the VTEC Solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:03:06.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17132" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:27:19.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tool you seek is commonly known as a &lt;em&gt;borescope&lt;/em&gt;, which should allow you to inspect both sides of the valves if you can get the scope end to reach there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice YouTube video showing the inspection of the piston surface and cylinder-facing side of the valve: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/LgbhePnUHiI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/LgbhePnUHiI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:27:19.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17131" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:05:50.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given its proximity to the AC compressor, the one to the left appears to be the wire for the AC compressor clutch; the connector looks similar to the one for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=296&amp;amp;pagenumber=2&amp;amp;sort_on=&amp;amp;sort_by=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brand-new replacement&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DnSfa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AC Clutch wire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm speculating that the one on the right side of the picture is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=u8ykr%2fx8AWrUcw%2bdMmQAxw%3d%3d&amp;amp;id=316243093&amp;amp;m=2&amp;amp;search=true&amp;amp;year=1993&amp;amp;make=Ford&amp;amp;model=F-150&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fuel injector connector&lt;/a&gt;, a clearer picture from a different angle would help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XacfW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuel injector connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:05:50.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17131" CreationDate="2015-05-21T21:06:27.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @Zaid is correct on the first one (A/C). The second one, however, I believe is actually the Power Steering Pressure Sensor (PSPS) Connector, which uses the same pig tail as the injector harness, but would account for the good running engine. (Motorcraft part number WPT372)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the new pictures, it appears the upper pulley replaces an A/C compressor (looks like no A/C in the truck ... this is called an &lt;em&gt;idler pulley&lt;/em&gt; which just takes up the space of an A/C compressor so they don't have to re-engineer things), so the A/C plug would not be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, looking at the power steering pump (a new one from an online parts catalog) I see that there is &lt;em&gt;supposed to be&lt;/em&gt; a PSPS on the pump (due to them offering one in the catalog), but I don't see a provision for it on the pump itself. You'd be looking for something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZl6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be since you don't have A/C in the truck, this vehicle is more of a &lt;em&gt;work truck&lt;/em&gt;, which is designed not to have all the bells and whistles. It's just designed to do the job. If so, what happens is, they will only make one wiring harness for the full line of F-150 trucks which covers the use of an A/C unit and the PSPS, but sinse your truck doesn't have these, the plugs aren't connected to anything or just left hanging free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T19:08:28.247" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T19:08:28.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T23:34:06.793" Score="2" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the intake for the air conditioning unit the same (i.e. under the hood near the windshield wipers) as the regular cabin air intake? What about in recirculation mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T11:06:22.453" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T19:15:49.747" Title="BMW e46 AC intake location(s)" Tags="|ac|bmw|vents|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17145" CreationDate="2015-05-21T23:40:09.453" Score="3" ViewCount="1484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there are two types of air conditioning units - &lt;strong&gt;IHKR&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;IHKA&lt;/strong&gt; - in BMW e39's. I'm curious whether there are different types in e46's and, if so, how do I find out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T11:21:14.500" Title="How to know BMW e46 AC type" Tags="|ac|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17170" CreationDate="2015-05-22T00:33:07.577" Score="4" ViewCount="3267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very low high pitched whine that comes from the steering wheel. If I turn the wheel two inches to the right or left, the whine goes quiet. If I let go of the wheel and it re-centres, the whine comes back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very low,, but high pitched. Drives me batty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the power steering fluid level and it's on Max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what could cause this, and how to make it go away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: You can hear the sound in this guy's YouTube video ... like a high pitched whine ... &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=RqsuMpUBxag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=RqsuMpUBxag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastEditorUserId="8003" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T02:17:16.297" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T21:36:23.187" Title="2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee -- quiet whine from steering wheel -- what's causing it?" Tags="|jeep|power-steering|steering|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T08:03:35.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a problem with my bike. I went to go to work in the morning and it turned on ok. Left to run for a few minutes then cut out. It turned over again and same thing ... I tried a third time and nothing what so ever: no power; lights completely dead ... I left it and went to work. The day after I tried again and still the same. I took battery off and checked the charge was reading good, so put it back and checked fuses. They looked ok, but I changed them anyways. It was still the same. Now I am looking at my starter motor, but saying &lt;em&gt;would the power be completely off if the starter motor was at fault&lt;/em&gt;?&#xA;Any one have any ideas please....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10571" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T13:43:14.347" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:11:59.273" Title="A Suzuki GZ125 marauder that won't power on at all" Tags="|motorcycle|power|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17141" CreationDate="2015-05-22T11:05:38.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmwtech.ru/pdf/e46/ST034/8%20Climate%20Control.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt;, it shows the difference and it's pretty easy to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the IHKA control in the e46. It is an automatic control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldSTV.png&quot; alt=&quot;IHKA&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the IHKR control in the e46 (with the radio above it). It is a manual control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6Dno.png&quot; alt=&quot;IHKR&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T11:21:14.500" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T11:21:14.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17140" CreationDate="2015-05-22T11:15:49.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; positive about the BMW, but would assume it's just like any other car. The A/C uses the same fresh air locations as the rest of the system. When in recirculation mode, the air is forced to go back through and into the cabin interior with little air being drawn from the outside. In order for the air to be cool (when going through the A/C condenser) or warm (when going through the heater core), there is an object which is called a &lt;em&gt;blend door&lt;/em&gt; which forces the air, in varying amounts, through one side or the other. If you want the air to be warmer, it forces more through the heater core. If you want it to be cooler, it forces more through the condenser core. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T11:15:49.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:00:02.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the fuel pump is a good place to start. I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; this scooter doesn't actually use a fuel pump, but a fuel diaphragm. I found two versions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powersportsmax.com/index_parts.php/tID/3/vID/1080/gID/11/cPath/292_313_379&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which should be for your scooter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:00:02.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:54:10.060" Score="0" ViewCount="5164" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '94 Honda Civic (1.5l VTEC-E) was overheating, and I replaced the head gaskets. Now it turns over but won't start. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10576" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T21:26:53.537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T21:26:53.537" Title="Civic won't start after replacing head gaskets" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-25T19:19:52.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17149" CreationDate="2015-05-22T19:26:05.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;five things&lt;/strong&gt; I can think of which could possibly be at issue, but as written, your question is very broad and could have many different answers. You don't even give any thought to telling us whether or not the engine will even kick over or if it just cranks over with no other signs of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number one:&lt;/strong&gt; Your cam timing is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/6rS2Un8pUao&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; should help you ensure you have the cam timing correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number two:&lt;/strong&gt; You don't have fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel rail somewhere and see if you have pressure. You can probably hear the pump prime when you turn the key. If so, this would be at the bottom of my list to check. Especially since the engine was running when you tore it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number three:&lt;/strong&gt; You didn't connect power to your ignition system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go back over and check your wiring to ensure everything is in place and you didn't inadvertently break something in the process of putting it back together. You can also put a multimeter on your coil power lead to ensure there is power there as well. I doubt the coil itself is the issue. You can also check at the spark plug to ensure you are getting spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number four:&lt;/strong&gt; You didn't attach your spark plug wires in the correct order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully ensure you have the spark plug leads back into the correct position. Here is a diagram of how they should be attached:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZq1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number Five:&lt;/strong&gt; Your distributor &lt;em&gt;may be&lt;/em&gt; 180 degrees out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is even a concern, but it might be. If the distributor is 180 degrees out (meaning, the rotor is placed backwards when the distributor was attached to the end of the head or 180 degrees out of position), it will be firing the spark plugs on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, as it should. You'd need to static time your engine to ensure this is not the case. Again, the lack of engine information is hurting you here. I say &lt;em&gt;might be&lt;/em&gt; on this one, because I'm not sure if you can even do this with Honda distributors, but it may be something to eliminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T19:59:40.483" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T19:59:40.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2015-05-22T21:16:50.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, it was the brake light housing on both sides.  MY OPINION...this is a crappy design!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 little points, once you twist on the housing, barely makes proper contact.  I had to rig up something to make better contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10579" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T21:16:50.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17010" CreationDate="2015-05-22T23:35:03.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you Both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Kseal had clogged up thermostat. A simple thermostat change with radiator flush and new coolant fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were no signs of HG damage but the mechanic said one thing very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;TIME WILL TELL&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic suggested the below.&#xA;- Change the thermostat &amp;amp; Coolant&#xA;- Check the Water pump and radiator fan&#xA;- HG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And he also suggested that this car may not be very reliable in the long run, in mechanic's code, get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10514" LastEditorUserId="10514" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T23:42:01.540" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T23:42:01.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17075" CreationDate="2015-05-23T00:05:07.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that a dual circuit master cylinder in a single circuit system is not going to be very safe. The plugged circuit will still get fluid (unless you plug the inlet somehow, which would then lead to unhappy/unlubricated seals and a very short life), and will give a pedal that's too firm, potentially affecting the rest of your brake system such that you won't be able to stop properly. What you need to do is split out the existing system and convert to a true dual circuit brake system (much safer), or get a proper single circuit unit for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10581" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T00:05:07.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T01:13:00.500" Score="1" ViewCount="6062" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I add transmission fluid, it leaks out below. It looks like it is collecting around the pan, but also forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking to see if someone thinks changing the pan won't cover the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcTno.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Passenger side of transmission pan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HLx8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission leak #2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P8tr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission leak #3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/egbAr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission leak #4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 5/25/15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaned up around the pan and forward. The cork seal around the pan is bone dry. But it looks like the leak is coming from this rubber gasket. That's bad, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sBzVr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Transmission rubber cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10568" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:14:03.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:14:03.973" Title="Transmission fluid leak 1993 5.0 V8 F150 Engine" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17154" CreationDate="2015-05-23T02:41:05.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that I think it could be the front main seal in the transmission, doing the pan gasket is not only an easier job to do, but you can also change the filter while you are there. If the pan gasket fixes it, you're golden. If it doesn't, changing out the pan gasket and filter is not expensive and could probably use the change anyway. If you don't want to go this route, I'd suggest you clean everything off and actually &lt;strong&gt;see&lt;/strong&gt; where it's leaking from. That way you'll know for sure. Just looking at it, though, my bet is on the front seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T02:41:05.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17161" CreationDate="2015-05-23T04:19:12.860" Score="1" ViewCount="18393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to replace the starter on a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I uninstalled the starter, I remove two screws holding the starter and another two, one that holds the ground and one that holds the current but after I removed the whole thing I realized that there are three wires total, the ground and other two that apparently go in the same screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it typical for starters to have two hot wires going on the same screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why do these wires have current regardless of the position of the ignition switch? In other words, if I remove the key from the switch and test these two wires they have current -- why? I thought it would only have power in the &quot;on&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10585" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T01:08:15.473" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T03:57:42.477" Title="Chevy Cobalt starter has two hot wires that have current regardless of ignition switch" Tags="|chevrolet|starter|cobalt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T11:07:36.220" Score="1" ViewCount="8033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put a new alternator on my 76 Winnebago motor home yesterday and it started just fine two times and now I have no power at all. No head lights, no cigarette lighter, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested the batteries and they read 12 V with motor off. I can't check when running because there's no power. So what could be causing my motor to have no power now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T12:47:27.587" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T17:22:17.493" Title="Installed new alternator, now no power" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17154" CreationDate="2015-05-23T12:49:43.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The existing oil residue will make it difficult to tell the source of the leak. I suggest you clean the entire area (copious amounts of brake cleaner usually does a decent job) and then run the vehicle a little to see if you can trace the source of the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T12:49:43.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17156" CreationDate="2015-05-23T12:53:20.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, the wires that you have are thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big fat gnarly wire is the main power wire, as you surmised. It comes directly from the battery. It provides power to the solenoid, not to the starter though (well, ultimately it gets to the starter ... I'll explain). There are two parts to the starter (in most vehicles). The larger part which actually attaches to the engine is the starter motor. This, as the name implies, is the part which actually gets the engine to spin. The smaller part is called the solenoid. The solenoid has two purposes. Its first job is to move the starter gear into position so it will contact the engine flywheel (or flexplate depending on type of transmission). The second thing it does is to act as a relay to energize the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two wires is where your understanding goes astray. One of these wires provides power to the solenoid to energize it. This wire gets energized when you turn the key switch from the &quot;on&quot; position to the &quot;start&quot; position. (I'm pretty sure on this next part ... someone correct me if I'm wrong ...) The second wire you are looking at provides full 12v power to the ignition system (coil) during starting. This makes it so the spark plugs provide a little extra &lt;em&gt;umph&lt;/em&gt; during that process and hopefully allows your engine to start quicker. It pulls this power from the energizer wire as it is only needed during starting, so is a convenient place to have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a ground wire going to the starter. It utilizes the the metal connection of the starter case attached to the engine itself as the ground. The engine is grounded to the body and usually directly to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T12:53:20.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16825" CreationDate="2015-05-23T13:38:59.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick eBay search &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-03-04-05-06-MAZDA-MPV-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-BOTTLE-RESERVOIR-W-PUMP-OEM-/351407441662?fits=Make%3AMazda%7CModel%3AMPV&amp;amp;hash=item51d18406fe&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;appears to indicate&lt;/a&gt; that the washer reservoir's capacity is rather limited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfFaD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eBay picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T13:38:59.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17144" CreationDate="2015-05-23T14:23:03.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter motor has it's own completely different circuit on almost all vehicles, including yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter motor having an electrical issue would typically be isolated to that circuit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your issue must lay somewhere else in the electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first check these items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Main fuse.  Use a multimeter and don't use visual inspection.  Check the resistance of it and should be zero.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check power to your ignition switch.  If you have power to the switch but no power leaving the switch then this is probably your culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T22:11:59.273" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:11:59.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17167" CreationDate="2015-05-23T15:45:40.013" Score="5" ViewCount="77822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my 2000 Honda Civic to my local Castrol shop for an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After leaving for work the next day my wife told me there was a three foot wide pool of oil where my car was. I moved my car at work and saw a two foot pool of oil where it was parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car back to the Castrol shop and was told the engine oil pan gasket had to be replaced for $200. This has never been replaced before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said that my car wasn't leaking oil like this before I took it to Castrol and they said it just needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I declined their repair and drove my car home. Today there's another three foot pool of oil under the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on putting a couple quarts of oil and taking it to an independent mechanic on Tuesday (after Memorial Day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did Castrol forget to tighten the oil filter (or something else) and are trying to rip me off? Or does my car need its engine oil pan gasket replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7466" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T23:39:25.157" Title="Oil leaks after oil change - shop says engine oil pan gasket needs to be replaced" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-leak|oil-pan|gasket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17165" CreationDate="2015-05-23T15:58:18.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was no oil leak before the oil change, then there is a possibility of wrong repair done at the workshop. Generally, for changing oil, the oil pan need not be touched at all, except for the oil drain plug. If the vehicle underbody is checked on a two post lift, then the leaking area could be spotted. Taking the vehicle to another mechanic is a good decision&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T15:58:18.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17165" CreationDate="2015-05-23T17:30:31.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @knocksAndMisfires - it sounds strange that the oil pan gasket would have to be touched for a routine oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil pan/lower sump was removed then this may necessitate a gasket change since they tend to be a single-use item, but this should not be required for a routine oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing worth mentioning: $200 for an oil pan gasket &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;mvsub=1&amp;amp;_mcatda=true&amp;amp;selfil=2%2C3%2C1&amp;amp;selvel=Honda%7ECivic%7E2000%7E-%7E-&amp;amp;_nkw=oil%20gasket%20Honda%20Civic%202000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is ludicrous&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speculation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I dread is damaging the thread of the oil drain plug in the process of reinstalling it back in the oil pan. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; explain why your vehicle is leaking oil all of a sudden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T21:47:26.457" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T21:47:26.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17234" CreationDate="2015-05-23T18:04:42.020" Score="4" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently inherited a 2002 Suzuki sv650... It was garage kept for about 6 years and needs some love. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the rubber seals on top of the fork shock tubes won't stay with the tubes... Aka they slide up and stay there... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should these be replaced or can they be fixed with some gasket sealant? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone think the tubes should be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9904" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T07:17:07.780" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T07:17:07.780" Title="Fork tube seals Suzuki sv650" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|suzuki|forks|sv650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17142" CreationDate="2015-05-23T19:13:41.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the comments section on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/c81pit8miMY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, it seems to be a common issue related to the electric power steering motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely that there will be a technical service bulletin issued as to what the recommended course of action is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T21:36:23.187" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T21:36:23.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17165" CreationDate="2015-05-23T21:25:37.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are they did a shady job and are now trying to rip you off. No reason why it should be like that unless if they did that by accident or (worse) intentionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, take a look underneath and see where its leaking from. Likely to be from one of 3 places:&#xA;1. The drain plug. Maybe it just needs to be tightened. Or maybe the drain plug has its own gasket that needs to be replaced.&#xA;2. Around the edges of the oil pan. If this is the case, then they were right and you need your oil pan gasket replaced.&#xA;3. Around the oil filter. Maybe they put it on crooked or it needs to be tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you should go to another place and have them drain, tighten everything properly, and refill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of oil changes / mechanics are shady...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10594" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T21:25:37.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T21:43:16.937" Score="1" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My battery died, and we replaced it.  Had reset the radio code previously, with no difficulty, but this time it didn't work.  Used up my 10 trial attempts, and went to the dealer.  Service man checked code against radio serial no and it's correct.  He suggested pulling the radio ($120) to CHECK the serial no, even tho I told him it had worked before.  He suggested I buy a new radio.  Came home and researched the problem online.  Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery, entered code when prompted and now have Error Code 1 displayed - again.  Not sure what else to try?  Any help/suggestions are welcomed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:32:28.220" Title="'03 Honda Odyssey Radio Reset" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16855" CreationDate="2015-05-24T00:49:45.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the sway bar links. It was too cold for me to do it myself when I found out that they disintegrated, and the mechanics got a set that was short the 5th washers, which is supposed to be on the bottom side of the lower control arms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced it with a set from Febi, with the 5th washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far on a test drive, there seems to be no clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T00:49:45.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-24T01:09:26.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZHzM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gouges that shows a bit of the metal inside the sidewall&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed these gouges on the rear driver side tires. Should I be worried about a possible blowout? Should I replace them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7769" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:26:10.033" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:26:10.033" Title="Weird gouges on the tire sidewall. Are they going to blow?" Tags="|tires|damage|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17181" CreationDate="2015-05-24T02:26:47.593" Score="2" ViewCount="2103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a big SUV (infiniti qx80). I was going down a steep hill at slightly above the speed limit (around 45mph), and the road had a bump like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RI3i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car flew briefly in air and then landed. I didn't hear any strange noise other than the landing noise, but it was pretty scary. I wasn't familiar with the area, so I didn't expect there would be this huge bump in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this damage my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T14:22:39.743" Title="Does briefly flying in air hurt my car?" Tags="|suspension|infiniti|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17173" CreationDate="2015-05-24T02:27:15.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try retrieving the serial number from here to cross verify the same - &lt;a href=&quot;https://radio-navicode.honda.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://radio-navicode.honda.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to see the codes in the display when you enter them, perhaps you are entering the right codes but the number keys have some issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T02:27:15.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17175" CreationDate="2015-05-24T03:12:30.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to worry about a blowout as you don't have any cords showing. This is slightly subjective, though, as you don't know what kind of damage was done to the sidewall from the inside. It looks as these tires are pretty worn in the first place, though. You may think about getting new ones anyway. Also, see about getting the rim trued when you do, as that dent in the lip cannot be doing you any favors (probably feels like the tire is out of balance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T03:12:30.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17177" CreationDate="2015-05-24T03:17:00.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will this damage my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully it hasn't. In principle, sure, dropping a car from a sufficient height will break it. And injure people who may be in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, pay attention to the posted speed limits and road signage, especially when driving on roads you don't know well. If you weren't too far above the speed limit when this happened, you should probably contact the county and inform them of this incident, so they can flatten the bump or lower the speed limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10598" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T03:17:00.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17177" CreationDate="2015-05-24T03:17:13.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Maybe it didn't hurt it where you can tell this time, but remember, &lt;strong&gt;cars were meant to stay on the ground, not do Dukes of Hazzard stunt flying&lt;/strong&gt;. Every time something like this happens, you are putting undue stress on your springs, tires, rims, and suspension. Every time this happens, there has been a little more life which has left the vehicle sooner than it would have if it had never happened. If the vehicle lands wrong it could cause frame or unibody damage depending on the vehicle. Most important of all, it can cause damage to you the driver and to your passengers if you hit hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T03:17:13.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2015-05-24T11:57:32.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give direct power supply to motor by disconnecting the motor plug connection and see what happens. If motor is working fine, you should notice movement of seats more than 1&quot;. If motor is working fine, then check the input to motor by using multimeter in voltage mode. Don't forget to actuate the switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T11:57:32.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17159" CreationDate="2015-05-24T12:15:06.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery has 12v power supply and still if some electrical circuits are not working, then please check the fuses of relevant circuits, probably there is a common fuse that might have blown. If you are able to start the car that means the battery charge is fine. If you are able to start the engine, then check the voltage at battery at idling. The voltage at battery with engine running will be more than 13V which means the alternator is charging the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T12:15:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17177" CreationDate="2015-05-24T14:22:39.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;as of my experience if your steering haven't changed and no knocking in the suspension you should be ok however you should just take a look at the suspension in case the bump did hit some thing and bent it just keep in mind cars a build to last not break from rough driving especially suvs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T14:22:39.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17159" CreationDate="2015-05-24T14:27:20.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;check the fuse box and you should check your charging voltage first when the car is running check the voltage on the battery it should be around 13 v if its more then the regulator on the alternator is faulty and is over charging and that might be the reason you fuses blew out. if the alternator is reading more than 13 v don't keep it running as it can damage you batter and other electrics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T14:27:20.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2015-05-24T14:30:16.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;after checking the motor if it works.the issue can only be jammed seat tracks or jammed seat gearbox which a little lubrication should fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T14:30:16.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2015-05-24T14:39:06.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;depends on your car newer cars have electronic controlled transmission which will unlock from D (first gear actuator) if your stopped and not pressing the gas pedal.how ever on most of the cars new and old its a good practice to keep it in N if you stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;leaving the car on D and pressing the break will just load the transmission and heat the fluids in it because the first gear actuator will be engaged thus loading on your torque converter bump which causes the fluid to heat up. &#xA;keeping it on N will will disengages any load on the transmission and will elongate its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as i said its good practice will increase your transmission life time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T14:39:06.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11239" CreationDate="2015-05-24T15:32:58.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i know this problem your evap canister needs to be changed its full saturated with fuel it cant take any more vapors in it which will cause a very rich mixture in you manifold and probably will stall the engine you can test this by unplaging the vacuum tube to the canister and plugging it with a screw or some thing if the engine dosent stall then just change the canister or keep it unplugged although it my be illegal in some places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it also can be your evap solenoid that stays on which will still cause the same problem you can test and fix the same way as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T15:32:58.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17175" CreationDate="2015-05-24T16:10:20.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the tires the wire structure inside is broken I had it before ignored it and when the tire got hot the tire deformed and by the time I stopped to check &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the bulge got biggier and bigger and it blewup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change them its very dangerous the tire is weak now snd thats the weakest point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T16:10:20.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17140" CreationDate="2015-05-24T16:44:05.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In recirculation mode, air from the cabin is sucked in by the blower motor that is passed through the HVAC unit back into cabin. The choice is based on user selection based on which the flap near the blower motor is adjusted to fresh air mode or recirculation mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T16:44:05.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15635" CreationDate="2015-05-24T19:19:06.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug srs fuses if any exists in your fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the steering wheel airbag its a yellow wire under steering column     with a warning label.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the dashboard air bag if you have one. It's a yellow wire under the dash. Same warning label on the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace your sensor &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your fuses back and connect the battery terminals. Test if the sensor is working with the scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor is working ok then disconnect your battery again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plug back the the yellow air bag wires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use your scan tool to erase all SRS error codes from the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advice - make sure that you have a good sensor and its working before reconnecting the airbag yellow wires.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:05:39.807" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:05:39.807" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16224" CreationDate="2015-05-24T19:36:46.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i went through that a lot every time bad bearing instillation either not aligned right or pressed in too tight. advice change your mechanic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T19:36:46.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2015-05-24T19:42:40.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the manufacturer specs. Different material alloys will need special gaskets between them as the materials of both sides of thew gasket will expand at different rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind the fluids that the gasket seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, the manufacturer standard, gasket types and width where calculated during engine manufacturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go out and study it there are books on gasket manufacturers specs and so on but you have to know the alloys the gasket is sandwiched between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:36:01.570" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:36:01.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17254" CreationDate="2015-05-24T19:47:46.247" Score="5" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of small (1-2mm in diameter) rust spots on the roof of my truck. I'm thinking of painting flat black racing stripes over the hood (bonnet to you Brits!) and roof of the truck to cover the small spots. And when I say &lt;em&gt;paint over them&lt;/em&gt;, I mean to say, properly take it down to the metal, eliminate the rust on the metal, treat the metal, then paint the stripes over them. (For reference, the truck is gloss black.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand it is a little bit more complicated than just laying down some parallel lines and throwing paint on there. It is my understanding the stripes need to be slimmer at the front of the truck and become fatter towards the rear to make it look optically correct as you look at them. Is there a magic formula? Does anyone have the proper way these should be done? I'm looking for instructions from what needs to be done with the existing paint so new paint will adhere. Also looking to find out if you just lay flat black paint on it, or do you use flat clear? Any professional suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; For a little more context, the plan is for twin stripes. The vehicle is an '06 Chevy Silverado. The paint right now is gloss black (black w/clear coat). The twin stripes would need to probably fit on the hood, but don't need to be as wide as the raised portion of the hood. Since I want it to be flat black, I don't think the additional pin stripe on the sides would be required, but may need to be for aesthetics sake. Like I've said, I'm a function over form kind of guy, so I need some ideas on how to make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T23:03:26.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T08:58:04.667" Title="Painting Racing Stripes" Tags="|chevrolet|paint|rust|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17199" CreationDate="2015-05-25T01:21:16.193" Score="3" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Ford Ranger with a 3L 6v flex fuel 2 door extended cab with a 6 ft bed. I need to replace the entire exhaust, however I cannot find a Y-pipe for the catalytic converter. All the parts are stock, and not a single parts site has a Y-pipe for it. Where can I find this part, or is it the wrong name for this part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10604" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:33:04.493" LastActivityDate="2021-09-21T09:34:00.080" Title="1999 Ford Ranger Exhaust Repair" Tags="|ford|exhaust|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T01:31:02.530" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the mirrors on my Honda with LED mirrors after one of them broke off and I don't think the cables match, so I'm unable to control the mirror electronically. A few other sets of cables came with them with no directions and I assume they are extensions to the fuse panel. The cables on the original have sharp point male ends that plug into a few chosen points in a 15 or so pronged female connector. The ones provided with replacement look like something that would hook onto a brake cable. Also the end connectors on the extensions are single pronged as the fuse inputs require double prongs. I removed the original on the passenger side and it is still assembled with the end connector so I can follow the wiring pattern that way but I need to find a specialized kind of adapter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T05:23:16.827" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T05:23:16.827" Title="OEM cables don't match new LED mirrors, need specialized adapters?" Tags="|fuse|mirrors|led|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17197" CreationDate="2015-05-25T01:31:55.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are looking for is actually the catalytic converters. If you take a look at the &lt;strong&gt;DAVICO MANUFACTURING Part # 59261&lt;/strong&gt; you'll see the cats are incorporated into the Y-pipe and gets you what you need. They call it an &lt;em&gt;Exact-Fit Catalytic Converter&lt;/em&gt;. I'm sure there are other brands out there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2H1xc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T01:31:55.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17200" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A device which is capable of changing electrical energy into mechanical energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found in applications as diverse as industrial fans, blowers and pumps, machine tools, household appliances, power tools, and disk drives, electric motors can be powered by direct current (DC) sources, such as from batteries, motor vehicles or rectifiers, or by alternating current (AC) sources, such as from the power grid, inverters or generators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric motors are used to produce linear or rotary force (torque), and should be distinguished from devices such as magnetic solenoids and loudspeakers that convert electricity into motion but do not generate usable mechanical powers, which are respectively referred to as actuators and transducers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17201" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" Score="0" Body="A device which is capable of changing electrical energy into mechanical energy." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T01:46:27.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17202" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used in the automotive industry as a long lasting, low amperage, high output replacement for the incandescent bulb. First turned up in brake lights due to its ability to become fully lit in a fraction of the time of incandescent bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first visible-spectrum (red) LED was developed in 1962 by Nick Holonyak, Jr., while working at General Electric Company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17203" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" Score="0" Body="Light Emitting Diode" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:08:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17204" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an automotive sense, the term &quot;mirrors&quot; usually refers to the side and review mirrors used by the vehicle driver to see behind without having to turn around. Mirrors can be manually operated or have electric motors which adjusts them so any driver can move them so they are useful. Mirrors help eliminate blind spots in driver's field of view. They also allow the driver to see most things behind them without the need to turn around and take their eyes off of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17205" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" Score="0" Body="A piece of glass with a reflective substance placed on the back of it which is used to reflect light." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T02:13:01.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17212" CreationDate="2015-05-25T04:51:22.830" Score="4" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really the right place for this question I'm sure, but I saw this old rusty car on a bushwalk (in Australia) and wondered what it was. Anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUnbi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rusty old car&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9465" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T19:21:29.790" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:28:20.003" Title="Identifiy this car from the 40's or 50s?" Tags="|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17249" CreationDate="2015-05-25T08:32:55.213" Score="5" ViewCount="2042" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the car is running, I am no longer able to put it into any gear; like it would happen when you're not holding the clutch, so that is one of the reasons why I think there is something wrong with clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other, possibly relevant stuff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is not running, the shifter seems to be working just fine and I can put it into any gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I try to start a car while in first gear, it would just jerks and die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is running (in neutral gear), and I press and hold clutch all the way, I can hear some light scratching-like noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I might be wrong on this, but clutch pedal doesn't seem to be as stiff as it was before, if that makes any sense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day or two before this happened, I've noticed that the car needed stronger gas to get going. I though it was just because I got some&#xA;bad quality fuel which is not as uncommon where I live.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car was recently (~two weeks ago) on a big scheduled maintenance where oil, * filters and some other stuff I can't name were changed. Shouldn't they have noticed if there was something about to break or wear off?!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as my car is parked in a really tight and hard to push-out-of spot, is there anything I can do to get it going in reverse and at least get it onto the main road so I can call the road assistance service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Forgot to mention that this happened overnight. I drove and then parked car just fine. When I came back 1 day later, problem described above occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10607" LastEditorUserId="10607" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T08:47:45.317" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T13:05:55.597" Title="2002 Peugeot 206 Clutch won't disengage" Tags="|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T13:30:09.473" Score="3" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the fuse box and the diagram is blurred already. There is a 4x4 set of fuses in the fuse box. I want to know which is for the reverse light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10609" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:23:18.870" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:23:18.870" Title="Where can I find the reverse light fuse on a 2004 Toyota Vios" Tags="|toyota|vios|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17207" CreationDate="2015-05-25T13:31:57.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That appears to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Prefect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ford Prefect&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDabA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( ... or what's left of it ... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To tell you what tipped the scales for me as to &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; this is a Ford Prefect (and at Josh Caswell's suggestion), I'll add the things I looked at which gave me this as my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking at the shape of the rear window. Curved at the back while straight, yet slanted forward on the leading edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drip rails coming from the front of the vehicle until just over (to the end) of the opening for the rear window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shape of the rear fender.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear fender being a separate piece from the body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolled body line just above the rear fender.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body line at the middle of the car (on the side), which extends from the front of car until almost the rear of the car, with a sloping fade to it at the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T22:28:20.003" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:28:20.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5591" CreationDate="2015-05-25T19:12:57.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing the engine to aspirate better; increasing its volumetric efficiency, increases it's rpm. Porting, valve angle considerations after the installation of aa larger duration and larger lift camshaft.A head package with a matching compression ratio and balancing of the rotation assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10612" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T19:12:57.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T19:45:23.003" Score="-1" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00OXPXUAK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EvZ Mini Interface Works on Android Torque Bluetooth Obd2/obdii Car Diagnostic Scanner (Mini)&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MP6GSWQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PWOW® WIFI Wireless OBD2, OBDII Car Auto Diagnostic Scanner Adapter Reader, ELM327 for iPhone4S/5 iPad4 iPad mini and PC in XP System, with Micro Disc&lt;/a&gt; and a New Version V1.5 ELM327 OBDII OBD2 Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Interface Scanner because I want to code an application like OBD Auto Doctor. But first I'm trying to extract data from the car to some archive where I can process it. How can I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10613" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T19:02:49.693" Title="How to extract data from ODBII?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:47:11.860" Score="16" ViewCount="114482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had people give me anecdotal stories (friend of a friend type thing) about changing the transmission fluid in vehicles with 150,000+ miles, especially those that haven't had regular transmission maintenance.  The usual story is something along the lines of &quot;older American make care with 200,000 miles, a week after we changed the fluid, the transmission went out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to this?  Best answers I could find searching the internet were pretty inconclusive at best, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090523050113AAyS9XE&quot;&gt;yahoo answers&lt;/a&gt; with unhelpful answers like &quot;if it ain't broke, don't fix it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my vehicle in particular (2000 Chevrolet Venture), I had a transmission repair and fluid change at 130,000 miles, and am now at 190,000 miles (so it is a little overdue for transmission maintenance).  I've had a little hesitation in shifting: I talked to my mechanic and he likely said it's a sticky solenoid, and he suggested a cleaning transmission treatment (such as Seafoam), but he hasn't looked at it.  If I understand correctly, such treatments are usually best followed by a fluid change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to do a major repair at this point, I'd pretty much declare the vehicle &quot;junk&quot; instead.  So I'm fine with doing some minor maintenance to keep it going for a couple more years, but don't want to do anything that will possibly harm the transmission or make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10614" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T08:21:47.937" LastActivityDate="2019-02-10T18:38:32.163" Title="Any truth to the &quot;myth&quot; about changing transmission fluid in older vehicles?" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2015-05-26T02:47:23.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually at a shop they will heat bolts up with a blow torch and then they can hit it with an impact wrench, but the home mechanic doesn't usually have access to those tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went through this same ordeal on a Ford Windstar.  I tried a 6 point socket, then a bolt remover, but neither worked.  Then I got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/irwin-bolt-out-with-case-394001/9010233-P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Irwin Bolt Out&lt;/a&gt; from an auto parts store.  It has a curve inside the socket that keeps digging and biting into the bolt head, which worked for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were small 8mm heads so I couldn't use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.go2socket.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go2 Socket&lt;/a&gt; I found online.  It is for 10mm and up.  It works by clamping the head bolt down with a side bolt on the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T03:05:43.610" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T03:05:43.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17224" CreationDate="2015-05-26T03:46:53.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on my 63 impala (283 motor) and the previous owner had put a beat up Delco HEI distributor on the car, but it's so large that you can't really time it correctly-- the cap hits the firewall and you can't rotate it. So I got an original style distributor to replace it with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the spline on the bottom of the new (old style) distributor doesn't line up the same as the spline on the HEI. The HEI spline is exactly aligned with the rotor-- if the rotor is at 12 o clock, the spline is too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the new one, the spline is at maybe 2 o clock when the rotor is at 12. So when I drop the new one in, I can't get the rotor to align to the proper mark I made showing where the rotor from the old cap was pointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is clear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to proceed. It seems like the safest thing to do is to move the engine to TDC and then drop the distributor in and make sure the rotor is pointing at the contact for cylinder 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I kinda think it'd also be ok to use the position that the motor is in right now, and just try to turn the oil pump with a screwdriver down the distributor shaft hole until it lets the distributor drop where it's supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on how to deal with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5009" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:33:15.440" Title="replacing distributor-- spline doesn't align" Tags="|engine|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2015-05-26T07:49:20.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weld a bigger nut on top of the stripped bolt, then slip a long metal pipe over an appropriate-sized wrench and try again. Soaking it overnight in some WD-40 will also help. Also try sharp taps with a hammer to &quot;break&quot; the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T07:49:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17217" CreationDate="2015-05-26T07:59:26.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of such a thing before and it also doesn't make any logical sense. On the contrary, if you e.g. change your engine oil every 3000 miles instead of the &quot;recommended&quot; 10000, your engine will last practically forever. A friend of mine has a Honda Civic with 800 000 miles on the odometer and he changes his oil every 6 weeks (he does about 3000 miles in that time). Granted, Hondas are pretty reliable, but 800k miles is a bit of a stretch even for a Civic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as a transmission is also a large piece of moving metal parts, I can't see how it would react in an opposite way to frequent oil changes. The most important thing though is putting in the CORRECT oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Now that I know a bit more about oils, it turns out that fully synthetich oil will &quot;leak&quot; more easily that dino oil and therefore if your transmission had a pre-existing problem, synthetic oil would make it more apparent. It's not the oil though and it won't make the transmission break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T10:58:18.030" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T10:58:18.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T10:25:06.573" Score="1" ViewCount="4328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please explain the relationship between Diameter of the Wheel and the Turning Radius of the vehicle.(Car or Bus).  Does the length of the vehicle also matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T01:12:00.770" Title="Relationship between Diameter of the Wheel and the Turning Radius" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17222" CreationDate="2015-05-26T10:50:10.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no relationship between wheel size and turning circle - the turning radius of the vehicle is defined by the geometry of the front suspension, and the wheelbase and overhangs of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the traditional London Taxi is famous for having a very small turning circle, as it is designed to cope with very narrow streets. This is achieved through clever steering design - it uses the same size wheels as most other similarly sized cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T10:50:10.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17219" CreationDate="2015-05-26T11:05:33.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand you problem correctly you can't get the distributor to drop all the way down and line up. Older V-8 Chevys drove (spun) the oil pump with the distributor. The way it works is the crankshaft is connected to the camshaft by the timing chain. At the end of the cam shaft a gear meshes with the distributor drive gear. The bottom of the distributor has screwdriver shaped end that fits into a slot in the oil pump. You can try to rotate the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver to align everything. Or insert the distributor so the rotor looks like it is aligned slightly ahead of the correct plug wire  contact. While pressing down on the distributor have an assistant bump the ignition switch until the distributor aligns with the oil pump and drops in. If the timming still looks off, gently raise the distributor until the gears just begin to unmesh. Rotate the distributor  until you feel the teeth of the gears mesh, then repeat the bumping process. This can be frustrating if you have never done it before. You may have rotate the motor several times to get to the right start point which is #1 cyinder at (TDC) top dead center ready to fire (both valves closed). You may be able to remove all the plugs and turn the motor by manually turning  the crank pulley. It will be more accurate then using the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T11:05:33.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17219" CreationDate="2015-05-26T12:33:15.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mike's answer is spot on. Using the long screwdriver is by far the best method for straightening this out. It can be frustrating, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another way you can alleviate the condition if you just cannot get things aligned. You can move the spark plug wires one position (forward or rear) on the cap, which will straighten things out. You are keeping the same firing order (obviously), but by moving the wires, you are allowing the cap terminal to align at the proper time with the rotor. When doing this, it is important to only have two wires off of the cap at a time, as it can become confusing very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:33:15.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9700" CreationDate="2015-05-26T12:47:49.587" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slave cylinder problem. Air in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10617" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T15:20:57.923" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T15:20:57.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17217" CreationDate="2015-05-26T12:50:13.547" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I have anecdotal vs. empirical data on this, so please understand that caveat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the problem which is actually being discussed is doing a transmission &lt;em&gt;flush&lt;/em&gt; when it has never been done before (or with long periods without). The theory is, over time, buildup occurs within the transmission when flushes do not occur at regular maintenance intervals. If you remove this buildup, you leave gaps in the soft parts (clutch material) which means less material for the transmission to work with. This causes faster wear in the material which is left, which causes the transmission to need rebuilt sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the transmission has had regular flushes, this buildup does not occur as well as wear/tear not occurring due to buildup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, changing just the fluid (dropping the tranny pan method) under the same conditions (long period than specified between fluid change) would not have this same effect. This is because the buildup solids would still be in place. The reason a flush &lt;em&gt;could be&lt;/em&gt; more detrimental is because (to my understanding) the way a flush works is by forcing fluid through the system &lt;em&gt;backwards&lt;/em&gt;, freeing up any solids which may be in the filter or elsewhere and forcing them back out through the system. This not only cleans the filter, but also replaces &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; fluid in the transmission. When you drain by dropping the pan alone, you are only changing out the fluid which resides in the pan. There is still a large quantity which remains in the torque converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I've seen transmission which get flushed, having never had the fluid changed, destroy itself within a few thousand miles. Yet, the same type of vehicle, if left alone, would have lasted many, many more miles without the flush. Mind you, as stated, this is subjective. Bottom line here is that rule of thumb dictates, if you haven't kept up on your transmission maintenance, don't do a tranny flush. It will more than likely destroy your transmission. Getting scheduled maintenance on an automatic transmission is &lt;em&gt;by far&lt;/em&gt; your best recourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:50:13.547" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2015-05-26T13:54:09.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to consider when choosing gasket materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of fluid/gas that should be contained&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roughness of the sealing surfaces. The gasket needs to fill impurities in the sealing surfaces to keep the seal from leaking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical friction (Both for efficiency and resistance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the last one concerns other kind of seals more, on axles for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these combined gives that a gasket needs to be chosen as a compromise. On a rough surface, you might want a thicker, softer gasket, but that won't work on high pressure applications. It might need to resist oil or fuel or keep drinking water uncontaminated.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve head and oil pan gaskets are often thicker and softer. I've seen cork and rubber for example, and they won't need much torque to seal. You can compare this to the head gasket, which needs to hold the pressure from combustion and withstand a lot of heat. It often have steel reinforcements to accomplish this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NL8L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Head Gasket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head gasket needs a lot of torque to not leak, even though the surfaces are generally very smooth. The sometimes ridiculously specific torque specification are there to get the exact and even pressure on the gasket. Too little and it will leak, to much and something will be damaged (and probably leak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention copper washers. A softer metal can be used between two harder metals to form a gasket since it will deform and follow the shape of the surrounding surfaces. (It's usually recommended to change the washer after every disassemble). In your case it was used on a Banjo connection. Imagine using a fiber gasket there, it would tear up when adding tension to the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many different materials are used for gaskets. Copper, Aluminum, plastic, rubber, cork and fiber being very common, but there are a lot of other types as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki on gaskets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;O-ring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T14:08:44.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T14:08:44.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17216" CreationDate="2015-05-26T14:46:32.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD II is a  standard. All the PIDs and the relavant formulas are available online. There is also a wiki on OBD II pids. The protocol to look for depends on whether your OBD is based in CAN or K-line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T14:46:32.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T14:49:56.240" Score="4" ViewCount="10850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the inner and outer tie rods on a vehicle, and some time later was thinking about the linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall if the inner ball joint was at the same location as the inner suspension link, but even if it is when steering straight, in a turn in wouldn't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if the wheel moves up or down, the tie rod will pull or push the wheel a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?  If so, is the effect just so small it doesn't matter, or is there some other aspect of the steering/suspension design that accounts for this movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:38:23.797" Title="Do the front wheels turn a little bit on potholes and bumps?" Tags="|suspension|steering|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15746" CreationDate="2015-05-26T14:53:48.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An LED unit is more complex than a standard filament bulb.  As such, you can get what you pay for and that's a cheap LED bulb can give less than stellar performance.  I have LEDs on my motorcycles and cars, some with CANBUS and some not, and have had no issues but I buy quality parts, not necessarily the absolute cheapest eBay deal I can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During use the device can heat up, especially the super-bright units.  If there is a hairline crack in the circuitry then it will expand when warm and break the circuit (this is maddening when it happens to a coil!).  Given that when a standard bulb is installed the issue totally goes away, this confirms that the vehicle circuitry is fine and the issue is with the LED bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4603" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T14:53:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17330" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:36:04.570" Score="1" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get a MagnaFlow Cat and Muffler. I need confirmation that the parts I've found online will indeed fit my Celica. I'm ignorant when it comes to cars (I filled the radiator coolant overflow container with the coolant stuff... twice) but I'm getting better, sort of. Luckily, I have the internet and a car mechanic friend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the two parts I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic Converter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/displaydirectfit_obd.asp?directfit=448610&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MagnaFlow Part #448610&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cat Back Muffler: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/displayapplications.asp?partnumber=15812&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MagnaFlow Part #15812&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, will I need to buy anything extra (if these two fit) to make this work? I'm going to have a professional do the installation, so if there are any parts I need, now would be an excellent time to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The car was manufactured in Japan, so it does not have a California rating on the emission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10619" LastEditorUserId="10619" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T18:04:16.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:37:24.677" Title="2000 Toyota Celica GTS aftermarket exhaust system" Tags="|toyota|exhaust|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17168" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:54:13.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber seals that are staying on the inner fork tube after riding are called dust seals.  They are one of two seals that are used to seal the fork slider onto the inner fork tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first seal you see, the dust seal, does not prevent the oil from leaking out.  When you look into the the area where the dust seal would go you will see your oil seal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you change your dust seals if they are not staying seated into the slider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you are leaking ANY oil whatsoever from your forks you will need to change your oil seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seal cost is very low but of course there is a labor component.  I believe for those types of forks you are looking at about 4 hours of labor if you have a shop perform the task.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T16:54:13.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17230" CreationDate="2015-05-26T18:38:23.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The movement of the steering as you hit a bump is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_steer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bump steer&lt;/a&gt;, but this has nothing to do with what the beginning of your question is about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you turn the wheel (you turning it, not bump steer), the geometry of the steering components are such that the inner tire (which ever it may be) will turn tighter than the outer wheel. It is this way because each of these tires are on a different arc and therefore travel a different distance. If this didn't happen, the front end of the vehicle would buck and yaw as you'd go around the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bump steer is a different equation. Bump steer occurs as the front wheel (could be the back on an independent suspension, but to a much lesser extent) moves up and down when it encounters a bump in the road. Take a look at this PowerPoint mockup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23Lbc.png&quot; alt=&quot;bump steer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the tire articulates up or down, the tie rod length is effectively shortened, which causes the wheel to toe in if the steering mechanism is in front, or toe out if to the rear of the tire. Toe in/out refers to which way the tire is pointing (think of looking at your shoes to see if you are pigeon toed or not ... pigeon toed would be considered toe in. For drive ability's sake, this is how all street cars are normally run). It mainly becomes apparent when a single wheel hits a bump rather than when both do, because when both hit a bump, both sides are affected in the same manner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every vehicle with independent front suspension is affected by bump steer to some degree. According to the Wiki article linked above, &lt;em&gt;typical values are from two to ten degrees per meter of tire travel, for the front wheels&lt;/em&gt;. For most vehicles, that's not a lot of bump steer. Typical travel of modern vehicle suspension is probably around ~7-8&quot; from the vehicle resting on the ground to fully extended and less than that from resting to fully compressed (more like ~4-5&quot;). That is not a lot of movement from this effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles have a much larger issue with this than others. Mainly jacked up 4x4s suffer the most. That is if they don't do something with the steering linkages to fix the issue. There are two things which primarily affect this. First, the more parallel the tie rod is to the ground, the less you'll see bump steer. Second, the greater the wheel travel from fully extended to fully compressed, the greater you'll see bump steer. You can reduce this effect by lengthening the tie rod pivot length. Limit these two factors and the problem is reduced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:38:23.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T20:58:51.590" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tooth broke on a sprocket and my timing chain broke.  I was told I have a bent valve and would need a new cylinder head.  It's has been sitting for exactly a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What precautions should I take before attempting to drive again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10624" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T23:41:21.380" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T23:41:21.380" Title="Last year my timing chain had broken" Tags="|engine|pontiac|valve-timing|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17239" CreationDate="2015-05-26T23:26:29.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Brian commented, your question and the information we have is a little vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not repaired already:&#xA;It won't drive at all if the timing chain is broken. No amount of cranking the engine will start it. For this year/make/model it would probably be cheaper to either purchase another vehicle or swap in a low mileage engine than repair the current one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine has been repaired already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perform maintenance as required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep away from too high of RPMS or 'redline'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't 'bounce' off of the REV limiter; this is extremely harsh on the timing components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T23:26:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T04:40:35.060" Score="0" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a 2003 Acura tl 3.2 liter and the temperature keep going up towards the hot side of the gauge and I ch the thermostat and filled the coolant and it doesn't do it all the time so what could it be? Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10629" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T15:49:08.363" Title="2003 Acura tl overheating" Tags="|overheating|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17196" CreationDate="2015-05-27T08:35:06.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with Juann Strauss' comment. Try drawing the shape of the stripes out on the car with masking tape, then adjusting until they look right to you. Once you've got a shape you're happy with, run a new strip of tape along the outside of the ones you've just drawn, and peel off the original (so you've now got the paint you're keeping masked instead of the bit you're repainting...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're happy with the alignment, you'll need to rub back the paint in the area to be covered, to give the new paint something to adhere to. Use an etch primer on the area you've taken back to bare metal, for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the number of coats and whether or not they need varnish/clear over the top depends on the paint type...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T08:58:04.667" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T08:58:04.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17245" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:22:12.363" Score="8" ViewCount="7305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen many recent car launches in my home country which claim to have something called as an AMT or Automated Manual Transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious to know how is this different from a traditional manual transmission (ignore the CVT , i know how that works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose/advantages of the AMT over the DSG and traditional type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What category does the DSG from Volkswagen group come into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T21:22:07.853" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T21:22:07.853" Title="What is the difference between an automatic and an AMT" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17244" CreationDate="2015-05-27T10:19:30.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automated manual transmission is a kind of semi automatic transmission. The actual gear box will similar to the ones that you find in manual transmission, however the clutch control and gear shifting is automated. Mercedes had an AMT called sequentronic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct shift transmission (getriebe in German) has two intermediate shafts with alternate gears (one shaft has gears 1,3,5 and the other one has 2,4,6,R). In DSG, the next gear is preselected. There are two dry clutches, one for each intermediate shaft, and during gear shifting one clutch is engaged and another disengaged. VW uses DSG and Ford calls them DCT (dual clutch transmission).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of the transmissions above have a planetary gear box or a torque converter, which are standard in a conventional automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T17:58:48.190" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T17:58:48.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17242" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:29:18.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We really need more information to drill down your particular issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overheating indicates that the cooling system is not able to transfer heat from the engine to the surroundings. This could be due to several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stuck-closed thermostat that doesn't allow the coolant to flow as much as it needs to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A radiator fan that isn't running the way it should. If the fan is electric, a break in the connection or burnt fuse may be to blame. There could also be a mechanical problem with the fan if it doesn't spin freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low coolant flow, which could indicate a clogged water pump or clogged coolant piping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:29:18.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17342" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:39:21.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1920" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of days ago my 2006 Saturn Ion transmission stopped working. I can put the car into drive but when I hit the gas it just revs up and doesn't actually go anywhere - it will roll though like it's in neutral when it's in drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said when I put it in reverse it works just fine, which leads me to believe it's not a transmission issue. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet because it was suggested to me that this could be a electrical issue so when I put it in drive, it's not communicating with the transmission to be in drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did speak to a mechanic on the phone and he said that because reverse will work but drive won't, leads him to believe it's not the transmission at all, but he's not 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think, could it be the transmission,  an electrical issue or something else?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10631" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T08:13:51.047" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T04:12:29.170" Title="2006 Saturn Ion won't shift into drive but will in reverse" Tags="|electrical|transmission|automatic-transmission|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17209" CreationDate="2015-05-27T13:05:55.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem with the clutch ended up being serious. I had to replace clutch basket, plate and some other stuff I can't name. Also, some leaver was broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scratching noise&lt;/strong&gt; while holding a clutch that I mentioned in my question was (at least to a car mechanic guy I went to) a give-away of what's wrong with it. So, if you hear that scratching noise -- it's probably not gonna be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this was the smartest thing to do, but I managed to drive my car to a nearest car mechanic shop w/o clutch by starting a car and driving it in 2nd/3rd gear. Had to shut it down on each stop though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T13:05:55.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17244" CreationDate="2015-05-27T13:07:59.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To follow on from knocksAndMisfires' answer and your question update...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DSG is a kind of AMT, in that the computer controls the actual changing of gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind there are a number of differences between AMTs and traditional transmissions - some are obvious advantages, but are offset by other disadvantages...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quicker gear changes - the computer can shift clutches in a fraction of a second - this means the headline 0-60 times can be a lot quicker, and the car feels more sporty to the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Auto and manual modes - you can leave it in auto for dull town driving, and switch to manual on the open road, or when overtaking etc - so the 'best of both worlds' compared to a normal transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'Flappy Paddle' gearchange - makes it feel more like a racing car and means you have to take your hands off the wheel less.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More complicated - an obvious disadvantage - more to go wrong, and more expensive to fix when it does!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T13:07:59.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T14:34:52.913" Score="2" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. While making a turn, I heard a metallic snapping/clanking noise, which I could feel at my feet as well as in the wheel. I discovered what looks like a metal bracket popping out at the entrance of steering shaft near the brake pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the wheel, it appears to be attached by a bolt and moves when I turn. I'm not sure if I should drive my car to a mechanic or have it towed as I'm unsure what this bracket was holding on to on the inside. Have any ideas what this might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eM1dg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10632" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T10:47:19.517" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T10:47:19.517" Title="Metal bracket popping out at the entrance of steering shaft near the brake pedal" Tags="|nissan|part-identification|steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17196" CreationDate="2015-05-27T15:27:56.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may be overthinking this. Parallax means the appearance will vary depending on the distance and angle between the viewer and the truck, so unless there's some ISO standard reference point for racing stripe viewing, whatever shape looks right at (say) six feet will look off from 40' away in the opposite lane, and vice versa. I'd base any line variance on what looks best overall, meaning whatever shape seems to fit your truck. I've seen older Camaros with stripes that get wider front-to-back, but it's definitely an effect and they aren't trying to make the stripes look parallel. If it was me, I'd just keep everything parallel and constant width, possibly angling the front edge to keep it parallel with the hood line, but it's up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T15:27:56.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17289" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:04:20.353" Score="5" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;While replacing my calipers and their mounting brackets, I passed a tap through the bolt holes on the wheel hub assembly that secure the bracket, to clean up the threads. The tap's movement felt unusual: it didn't seem to be hitting any thread once past a certain point in the hole (which is about 3/4&quot; deep in total).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a closer look, and found that there doesn't appear to be any thread in approximately the second half of the bolt hole. There might be the remains of some; it's hard to tell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpxcW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of bracket bolt hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt starts on the inside of the car; the picture is taken from the outside -- the back of the hole where the thread seems to be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt seems to hold its position just fine. I had the bracket off a few months ago, as well as sometime last year, and I'm always careful to torque things down to their specifications. I didn't check the torque when pulling it off, of course, but it required force to loosen that was definitely in the right ballpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both holes have the same appearance, which makes me think it's more unlikely that this is abnormal. The other wheel is about the same; there might be a little more thread. Hard to tell. Is this how the threads are supposed to be, or do I need to plan on replacing the hub assembly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I can't see enlargement and retapping of the hole as a solution, because I don't think there's enough surrounding material on the bracket itself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:52:53.260" Title="Is my Forester's caliper bracket bolt hole stripped?" Tags="|brakes|subaru|forester|fastener|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17261" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:22:05.383" Score="5" ViewCount="7788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Nissan Murano. My Check Engine light is telling me that the cam position sensor (bank 1) is bad. I've located the sensors, and they are both readily available and easy to get to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is replacing these sensors as simple as simply pulling the old one, replacing it and torquing it down to the right tightness? Or are there any other things that need to be taken into account, such as how far in they go, or any other things that you need to be aware of when replacing them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the actual sensors don't seem to be too expensive, so would it be a good thing to replace both at once, or should I not mess with the other bank if it isn't throwing a code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T04:25:33.553" Title="Replacing Cam Position Sensor; any gotchas?" Tags="|obd-ii|cel|cam-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16006" CreationDate="2015-05-27T22:49:04.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is difficult to diagnose car sounds over the Internet, I would say pretty confidently that the sound is coming from the transmission for the reasons below;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have stated that the pitch of the sound follows the speed of the vehicle, which would lead me to believe this is specifically the final drive or 'differential' (inside the transmission on a transaxle) rather than a specific gear that is causing the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle is moving, the final drive is moving. Specific gears or neutral makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under acceleration the output-to-final drive gears are meshing on the 'leading' side of the teeth, which makes a specific sound. Under deceleration they are meshing on the 'trailing' side of the teeth which makes a different (usually louder) specific sound. The sound is created by the two gears being too far apart (like tenths or hundredths of a Millimeter) - see 'backlash' &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_%28engineering%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_%28engineering%29&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different car speeds (and thus, frequencies of the gears teeth meshing) will increase and decrease the intensity of the sound as it passes through different 'Harmonics' - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic&lt;/a&gt;. Around 90kph (55mph) seems to be a fairly common speed to hear intense harmonics, which is right in the middle of your 'more audible' range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing on the shifter can preload things inside the transmission and by way of transference is pulling the aforementioned gears apart increasing the backlash, thereby increasing the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final drive is usually close to the middle of the car, near the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T22:49:04.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17257" CreationDate="2015-05-27T23:24:36.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the look of the picture I would say that there is not much 'meat' left for the threads of the bolt to grab against. The amount of corrosion leads me to believe there were threads all the way through at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling/tapping can get complicated and expensive if you don't have the tap. Also the bigger bolt may not fit through the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct Answer - Considering this is related to the brakes and not just some unimportant plastic shield, I would recommend replacing the wheel hub altogether. A junkyard or Internet search should turn one up for a decent price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate, Possibly less safe answer - If space allows; drill out the rest of the threads from the current hole. Use a longer bolt of the same diameter and secure it with a nut on the backside of the bracket. High grade hardware and a lock-washer should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T23:24:36.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17258" CreationDate="2015-05-28T02:09:03.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Camshaft position sensors are usually Hall sensors, which translate changes in magnetic field to changes in voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as proximity is concerned, this should be taken care of by the shape and design of the sensor more than the correct tightening torque. By appropriately torqueing down the sensor you are ensuring that it doesn't get loose during operation or damaged during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as replacing all cam position sensors in one shot is concerned, this is really up to you as it depends on a few factors including cost, ease of installation and how susceptible the sensor on your vehicle is to drift over time. On some vehicles the health of the CPS has to deteriorate significantly before the vehicle throws a diagnostic code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T02:09:03.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T04:26:59.600" Score="1" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the lights in my car work, but when I turn the key, you only hear the slightest click sound. Ive checked the starter and it tested fine. This is for a 2002 camaro ls1 engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10643" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T10:35:45.080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T11:41:51.390" Title="2002 Camaro ls1 wont start" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15599" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:40:55.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you remove the switch, there should be three wires going to it - permanent live, switched live, and the one going out to the lamp itself. Disconnect the permanent live, making sure that a) it's not powering anything else, like alarm receivers, and b) that you insulate it properly so it can't touch anything and short out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refit the switch and you should be good to go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively don't let the toddler play with it ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T08:40:55.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17274" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:55:11.877" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda 323F 2k Model. I noticed that oil seeps from the valve cover seals/gasket.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Before it doesn't drop anything on the garage floor until now. I've observed a few drops after engine stop and then nothing.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is do I need to replace it immediately? Is it a cause of major concern or what do I need to watch out for that should trigger replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T11:54:53.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:54:53.627" Title="Need to replace valve cover gasket immediately with signs of seeping/leakage?" Tags="|mazda|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17257" CreationDate="2015-05-28T10:47:35.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bolt will bite and you can torque it to spec, I don't think you have an issue, per se. That said, if it were me, I'd go through the process of tapping the hole and setting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=helicoil&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helicoil&lt;/a&gt; in its place, just to ensure I have clean threads to work with. There is plenty of meat around the bolt hole to accomplish this. Since this is a braking associated part, it's not something I would leave unattended. Helicoil kits have the tap and insert to accomplish this with minimal fuss. You'd just need to figure out the pitch and thread of the hole to get the correct kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T10:47:35.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:03:35.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2009 Equinox turn signal lever is acting up. When you switch it to turn left you have to hold it down in order for it to work. It returns to neutral but won't stay on without holding it. The right side works normally. Do I need to replace the whole component or is there an easy fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10646" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:46:13.553" Title="2009 Chevy Equinox Turn Signal" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|equinox|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17258" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:07:46.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before replacing the sensor you need to confirm If it is really faulty or not. For that, you need to check the power supply, reference voltage and the signal(if possible using a scope). Like paulster2 had mentioned you can interchange the sensor and check if the part numbers are same(easier way)!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any symptoms because of the fault code. Did you try erasing the code using a scanner and check if it is reappears again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to replace a sensor if it is not faulty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:07:46.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5163" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:20:40.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of after market anti gasoline theft locks available especially for Honda motorcycles, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its basically a simple valve which doubles up as your gasoline open/close valve you need to use your key to open the valve to gasoline from the tank into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically a key hole will be there instead of the manual valve in the below image.&#xA;You insert the key , turn to unlock (let petrol in) lock (stop the flow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5YPo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also this extensive DIY which you can do if you are into DIY much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slideshare.net/mohitmahaldar/fuel-theft-prevention-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anti Gasoline Theft System&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:03:31.667" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:03:31.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17269" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:46:13.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to replace the entire switch assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the switch should not be that difficult. You should be able to do this by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the steering column trim covers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the multifunction turn signal switch harness connectors. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depress the lock tabs on the multifunction lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the multifunction lever. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace in reverse. You should not need to pull the steering wheel or mess with the air bag to complete this. In this illustration, the steering wheel is removed to better show what is going on and where the switch is located. This shows the switch on the right side (should be the wiper multifunction switch), but removal will be the same as the signal multifunction switch on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLSoB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:46:13.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17265" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:52:52.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As vehicles get older, it is not uncommon for seals and gaskets to start leaking. Replacing these is fairly common. Whether you replace it now is up to your level of frustration with how big of a mess this will create, not only on and around the engine, but ultimately on your garage floor or driveway. It is not an emergency for your engine, as there is plenty of oil stored in the crankcase of the engine. However, if you choose to wait on getting it fixed, you will need to ensure you keep up with replacing the oil which is lost through the leak. With a slow drip of a leak, it would take a long time for all of the oil to leak out, but have no fear, &lt;em&gt;it will leak out&lt;/em&gt;. If you keep up with the lost oil, there is no fear of collateral damage to internal engine parts due to this, though. Keep the oil between the high and low marks on the dipstick and you're golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:52:52.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2015-05-28T12:14:39.403" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque in a motorcycle&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzk3c.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston moves up and down, and the force for that comes from the fuel that is burned. Connected to the piston is a rod, the connecting rod, and that rod is connected (with the ability to turn) to the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance between the pedal to the rotation point is comparable to the distance between the crank and the middle point of the crankshaft, and in the same way as in the bicycle example, the distance &quot;counts&quot; for 100% when the point of the crank that is connected to the rod has an angle of 90 degrees with the direction of the piston, and for 0% when that point is in the highest or the lowest position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum torque&#xA;A piston, therefore, delivers a varying amount of torque. The torque at a certain rpm is the average torque that the piston delivers during the revolution stroke. And when your motorcycle has more than one cylinder, the torque of the individual pistons add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rpm where the maximum torque is delivered, is the rpm where the fuel is burned most efficiently: it is at that rpm that the piston delivers the maximum torque on the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearbox transmits the rotation of the crank onto (ultimately) the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does power (BHP) mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of power tells how fast work can be done. When you walk up the stairs for instance, you deliver work, carrying your own weight up the stairs. How fast you can do that determines your power (in combination with the length of the stairs and your weight: they determine the amount of work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is expressed in kilowatt (Kw) or in Horsepower (Hp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know the torque of your motorcycle with a given rpm, you can deduce the power, by multiplying the torque with the number of revolutions per minute (and of course with a constant factor to adjust the different dimensions like rpm, Hp and Nm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/technical/torque/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/technical/torque/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10648" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T12:14:39.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15599" CreationDate="2015-05-28T13:34:59.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Nick C's idea. An even lower tech approach would be to remove the dome light's bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:34:59.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17015" CreationDate="2015-05-28T15:08:18.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question does not specify what speeds are being attained or what grade of incline is being climbed, so this is a generic answer;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle cannot accelerate anymore it is due to a lack of power. Basically the resistances against the vehicle such as the weight of the vehicle against gravity on the incline, and aerodynamic drag have used all of the engines available power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution for more speed is to reduce resistance or increase power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T15:08:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T15:36:08.543" Score="0" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;When am speeding there is a car sign with spanner that comes on the dash board. I would like to know what exactly is the fault. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10650" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T15:47:16.330" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T17:34:49.490" Title="Opel Astra H CDTI 1.7 ISSUES" Tags="|opel|astra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-05-30T20:19:32.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17287" CreationDate="2015-05-28T16:31:42.143" Score="12" ViewCount="111077" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to easily removing stuck rubber hoses off fittings?  I saw there is a tool like this but I'm afraid of tearing the hose with its point.  Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0WEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T16:49:24.553" LastActivityDate="2020-10-25T21:48:01.377" Title="Is there a trick to easily removing stuck rubber hoses off fittings?" Tags="|tools|hose|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17278" CreationDate="2015-05-28T17:34:49.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car with a spanner warning light is an indication that your vehicle is due for service&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T17:34:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:30:37.760" Score="6" ViewCount="9943" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are most engines made with even numbers of cylinders? Are odd numbers of cylinders somehow less efficient than even ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T05:48:27.153" Title="Why are most engines made with even numbers of cylinders?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17302" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:32:49.543" Score="11" ViewCount="24521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Taunus&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ford Taunus&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (not to be confused with Taurus, it was a small model for German market) used to be made with a V4 engine but that's about it.  How come V4 never became more used in modern automotive engineering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2018-08-19T13:12:21.817" Title="Why did V4 engines never take off?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:39:52.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines with odd number of cylinders are more unbalanced compared to engine with even pair of cylinders. This causes an end to end rocking motion &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T18:39:52.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17284" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:42:22.887" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T18:42:22.887" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T18:42:22.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17285" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:42:22.887" Score="0" Body="The various chemicals emitted in exhaust gasses from an internal combustion engine. The usual gasses which are measured through emissions testing are Nitrogen Oxide (NO2), Carbon Monoxide (CO2), and HydroCarbons (HC)." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:16:03.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T23:16:03.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17303" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:44:39.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about the pipe highlighted in blue in the picture below, can you tell me what's its role ? is it used for air ? or to pass the fuel from the injector ? I may sound talking nonsense since I really don't know anything about mechanics but I've asked two friends and I got a different answer from each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Citroën Berlingo, petrol engine model (not diesel).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0VUv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The pipe location in the engine&quot;&gt;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10651" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T22:03:32.250" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T07:30:33.540" Title="Can you help me identify this pipe connected to the engine?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|part-identification|citroen|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17279" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:52:29.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things I do with a rubber hose to get them removed: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a pair of pliers, monkey wrench, or vise-grips (depending on how big the hose is). With these I apply enough pressure on the rubber at the point the hose clamp was attached to hold it without deforming anything underneath, especially if what is underneath happens to be fragile or made of thin metal. If you can get the hose to turn on the pipe, it will pull off of it. It's the adhesion which is formed which you are trying to break to allow it to pop off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have the above tool, you can also use a thin flat tipped screwdriver to run around the inside of the hose to break this connection loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can grab it well enough with your hands, you can possibly rotate it that way, as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, sans using the above tool (I'd be afraid of using it as well), the easiest way I've found to get the pipe dislodged is by twisting it. Pulling it straight off without breaking the seal just &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; allow anything to happen without damaging something. When re-installing the pipe, use a little bit of grease (high pressure or whatever ... &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; cooking grease, lol) on the inside. This will help it slide onto the fixture easier, will help it seal better, and when you have to pull it off again, makes it easier to come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T18:52:29.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2015-05-28T19:44:05.263" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the actual meaning of cc is the cylinder capacity so larger the cylinder more area avalible for burning of fuel so the larger the space for the moment of piston is also provided in this case so more power will be generated when cc is larger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10652" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:44:05.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17257" CreationDate="2015-05-28T19:52:53.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, this was me being an idiot. Or, more charitably, not thinking the situation through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got around to reassembly, I realized that this hub assembly is between the head of the bolt and the support bracket, and it's the bracket itself that has the threaded hole. This bolt hole felt so loose because &lt;strong&gt;there aren't&lt;/strong&gt; threads; it's drilled to the full outer diameter of the bolt (12mm in this case). The bolt slides right through here, and is secured by the bracket on the other side, with a lock washer under the bolt head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever threads appear to be in this hole are either illusory or the result of corrosion; they have no role in securing the bolt and can be ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:52:53.260" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T19:55:33.013" Score="14" ViewCount="207711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard from some people that they use straight antifreeze in their cooling systems, not 50/50.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the pros and cons of doing that?  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E.g., does it reduce exposure to corrosion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T01:22:28.280" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T19:43:12.607" Title="Pros and cons of using straight antifreeze?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17286" CreationDate="2015-05-28T21:57:50.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the fuel line pipe that connects to the injectors line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the return fuel line its not very clear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T21:57:50.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17263" CreationDate="2015-05-28T22:10:16.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your battery voltage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's ok then there are three things that will cause this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The security system - If the security light stays on then your key is not registering right with the ecu&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The starter relay is faulty&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The park neutral safety switch on the transmission is faulty&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to check for these things in sequence before you get to the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10599" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T11:41:51.390" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T11:41:51.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17286" CreationDate="2015-05-28T22:13:47.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't make out for sure which line you are pointing to, however if it's connected to the Tee I have circled then it's just a vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHmPB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T22:13:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17290" CreationDate="2015-05-28T22:38:32.713" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explained on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/articles/antifreeze-explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, using pure antifreeze alone will not do the job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which type or color your antifreeze is, it will transfer heat away most efficiently when blended with the proper amount of water - a mixture percentage based on the lowest temperatures typically seen in your climate. Most regions are best suited to a 50/50 water-antifreeze mixture which will provide protection from a low of -34°F to a high of 265°F. In addition, maintaining proper freeze point protection ensures corrosion inhibitors remain at intended levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's interesting to note that pure antifreeze alone will not perform the task of protecting your vehicle's cooling system much better than water would by itself. In fact, pure antifreeze will freeze at a temperature not much below where water does. In the coldest climates, the most effective mixture against freeze-up will consist of 60-70% antifreeze (with the rest being water) - not 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T22:38:32.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17112" CreationDate="2015-05-28T23:42:02.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideology of &quot;I better clean the MAF Sensor&quot; and &quot;My O2 sensor is faulty!&quot; is the product of &quot;blanket fixes&quot; for the slightest bump in the road (bad pun not intended). From what you described, those would be the very bottom of what I would be looking at in the case of your vehicle (unless I found something in a scan tool guiding me in that direction). There are three pieces of information that lends me to think it's something else. 1) It's under heavy load (you said it was during acceleration between 2.1 and 2.5k rpms) 2) It's humid out 3) You mentioned replacing plugs, but not the wires. Especially if you don't keep up with maintenance, the plug wires could've degraded over time and with the high KVs traveling through the wire, there could be arcing happening to the engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10654" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T23:42:02.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17279" CreationDate="2015-05-29T01:39:15.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster's first option of grabbing with pliers (or your hand, if possible) and twisting is the best I know, but one option for a tool like this pick that's not made of metal is bicycle tire levers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5PS9J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two Park Tool tire levers with a U.S. quarter dollar coin for scale&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have these for bike work, but they come in handy with the car too, any time I need to pry or pick something that might be damaged by a metal screwdriver. Inside trim pieces are one example; there are of course other tools, specifically designed for trim, but these levers have worked well enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you also have some lying around, they would be worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T01:39:15.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17290" CreationDate="2015-05-29T04:24:11.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using straight anti-freeze would probably reduce corrosion due it's lack of an oxygen that could be broken off from one of it's 'strings'.  Adding water may dilute the anti-freeze but it makes it denser.  The water also has that pesky oxygen atom that can be broken off from it that can cause corrosion.  That being said, running straight anti-freeze in very hot climates increases the risk of heat related damage to the motor as the fluid will not as efficiently rid the system of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-freeze is made of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ethylene glycol&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;propylene glycol&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  Both of those compounds are polymer strings that are pretty large molecules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water fits in between those molecules and increases the density of the anti-freeze.  When the density is higher it will have more surface area against the channels, water jackets, etc. within the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a larger surface footprint it can then have a more efficient heat transfer mechanism.  Adding water increases the heat transfer coefficient.  Simply put it makes convection better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's similar to adding salt to water to increase the density of the water.  We used to add salt to our cooler with bear and ice in them back in the day to shorten the time it takes to cool the beer.  Try it with anything, you make things noticeably much faster with this trick. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ethylene glycol or propylene glycol are both alcohol based thereby being water soluble.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your into it, this is a pretty cool &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/thermalP/Lesson-1/Methods-of-Heat-Transfer&quot;&gt;physics website&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T04:30:34.923" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T04:30:34.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2015-05-29T05:09:56.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all yes cars with odd numbers vibrate a lot , produce considerable amount of noise and are not refined as much compared to even numbered engines. There are reasons as to why many markets use odd numbered cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chevy spark has a 3 cylinder diesel variant.&#xA;The Hyundai Accent has a 3 Cylinder engine.&#xA;One of the Volkswagen Jetta had a 5 cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that all of these are in-lines and not in V configuration since for V configuration you need to have even numbers to balance out the&#xA;  load on each bank&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the reason as to why odd numbered cylinders are not popular in most markets is that there is no need on one since the default in-line 4 provides the right balance of power+economy+less complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand in emerging markets such as south-east Asia gasoline is very expensive compared to the US and so fuel economy is preference thus many cars in those markets have a in-line 3 cylinder engine configuration , its not as smooth or powerful as the 4 cylinder engine but it is way more economical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the Chevy spark has a 3 cylinder 800 cc diesel engine which gives a economy of 72mpg on the city and upwards of 90mpg on the highway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up my answer , yes there are odd numbered cylinder engines available but they are market specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T14:45:08.923" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T14:45:08.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17282" CreationDate="2015-05-29T07:49:08.330" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most influential reason as to why the V4 didnt take off is the ROI(return on investment) . The reason as to why we have the &lt;strong&gt;V configuration&lt;/strong&gt; is to save space , High performance cars have V configuration since they have upwards of 6 to 8 cylinders and putting them in a straight configuration will eat up a lot of space thus the V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the V4 that advantage is not there since the size&#xA;difference is very minute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The V4 configuration is more expensive to produce you need 2 cylinder blocks,so on and so forth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inline cylinders are much much much more refined than V engines and since most 4 cylinder cars are family everyday cars refinements sits on top of requirement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V4 engines are harder to maintain since they have complex builds and harder to reach for components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, there is no need of a much complex V4 engine when an inline 4 can do the job much better at lower cost and higher refinement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said , Hondas have used the V4s on their VFR range to great success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Lancia used V4s on the Fulvia on which the stratos is based, to great success in rallying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T07:08:56.907" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T07:08:56.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17286" CreationDate="2015-05-29T09:47:42.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is line for Fuel evaporation regeneration system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T09:47:42.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17282" CreationDate="2015-05-29T11:32:12.980" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the reasons Anarach mentions, one of the biggest reasons the V4 didn't take off is inherently, the V4 @ 60° is a rough running engine, especially at low RPM (idle &amp;amp; off-idle). It is very hard to balance. The V6 and V8 engines are much easier to balance, especially considering most of these are 90° V engines. Engines which are V4 @ 90° are much easier to balance, but lack in space considerations. When an engine runs rough, it is hard not only on itself, but on every other component of a vehicle as well. It does not lend to driver/passenger comfort either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in transverse engine arrangements (most front wheel drive cars), having a V4 would actually have fitment issues which you don't have with an I4 engine. With a V4 configuration, it would easily fit from side to side, but have issues front to back, which would require more space to accomplish. This would be defeating the purpose. An I4 configuration does the job just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T11:05:08.103" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T11:05:08.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17343" CreationDate="2015-05-29T12:13:39.457" Score="1" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Peugeot 107 which is a 1 liter engine car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what is the maximum safe speed at different gears? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car starts to make a lot of noise in 1st and 2nd gear, even at 10 mph at 2nd gear the car makes too much noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10657" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T16:24:40.493" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T15:45:44.060" Title="What is the redline for different gears for Peugeot 107 2005 model?" Tags="|transmission|gears|peugeot|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17282" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:54:30.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: They did. They're called Subarus.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completion, you should remember that Subaru has had great success with the 180 degree V4 (normally called a flat-4). By using a flat engine, they avoid many of the balancing issues faced by more narrow V configurations: the pistons are opposing and the crankshaft can be slightly shorter than on an inline-4. They also allow a much lower center of gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a space trade off: the engines are longitudinally shorter but much wider than inline engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a trade off in terms of plumbing convenience: the flat low engine allows for much easier routing of the intake piping (as there's more space to work with above the engine) but the exhaust side requires two lengthy manifolds. This exhaust routing can make turbocharging plumbing complicated as well. For example, my engine requires an up pipe to route the exhaust energy up from the joined exhaust manifolds to the turbine side of the turbo. This is a lot of piping that is generally not required in an inline-4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of all this, the exhaust note emitted by the turbocharged flat-4 is distinctive (it sounds like you're saying &quot;badda badda badda&quot; rather than a steady tone). Any Subaru driver will recognize you as one of the family without even glancing up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:54:30.013" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:55:18.177" Score="4" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fault codes indicate engine misfires on 2 (of 6) cylinders but I don't hear or feel any problems at all in the engine or exhaust. When I've observed engine misfires before, it was pretty obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there could somehow be misfires that aren't as bad as others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T19:31:41.277" Title="Are there varying degrees of engine misfire?" Tags="|engine|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17309" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:40:33.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, misfires vary in their severity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is worth mentioning that your reader may be displaying old codes, or codes which were triggered by abnormal engine activity that is no longer present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the vehicle were filled up with a bad batch of fuel that had water it, it could temporarily cause misfires. The fault codes for misfires would persist even though normal service resumes once the bad batch of fuel is spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T19:31:41.277" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T19:31:41.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T19:08:32.973" Score="4" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car in to have my AC Compressor replaced.  Well they replaced the AC Compressor, called and told me my vehicle is ready for pickup.  When I got their to pick-it up I see a steady steady constant flow leak of green flowing down.  I pointed it out to the shop, and they said they were sorry and would look into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They took about 3 hours and called me back and now said my Radiator had deteriorated.  The radiator had no issue prior to going into the shop, and personally I don't feel that a radiator would deteriorate THAT FAST.  It seems to me that the shop knicked it or dinged it while replacing the AC Compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question being, can a radiator &quot;deteriorate&quot; THAT MUCH overnight?!?! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT --&#xA;There is a crack about 2 inches below the top of the radiator on the inside (not the side facing the wheel well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2&#xA;1996 Ford Explorer 6cylinder.  New radiator was put in the vehicle roughly 4 yrs ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(working on images)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10660" LastEditorUserId="10660" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T14:22:22.740" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T14:22:22.740" Title="Radiator Leak Overnight?" Tags="|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T19:31:03.847" Score="12" ViewCount="62104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most DIY-ers will have experienced the frustration of self-inflicted screw damage due to the use of the wrong screwdriver type (or size, but let's keep that factor out of this particular question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180615174742/http://justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;research thus far&lt;/a&gt; indicates that the key difference between Phillips and Pozidriv screwdrivers is the fact that Phillips drivers are designed to &quot;torque out&quot; of the screw head if over-torqued, which increases the likelihood of material damage and distortion to both screw head and driver. Pozidriv, on the other hand, is designed such that it cannot jump out if over-torqued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same source mentions the both screwdriver and head should be of the same type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Phillips drivers should not be used with Posidriv screws (and vice&#xA;  versa) as they tend to ride out of the recess and round the corners of&#xA;  both the tool and screw recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can understand this for the Phillips screwdriver on a Pozidriv head, I struggle to see why this would be an issue for the reverse combination, since the risk of torque-out is absent and the screw head groove geometry appears to be quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a side-by-side comparison of the two driver types (Phillips left, Pozidriv right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvipi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Phillips vs. Pozidriv&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="45547" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T09:31:30.603" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T07:00:40.700" Title="Is it a bad idea to use a Pozidriv screwdriver on a Phillips head?" Tags="|screw|phillips|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17311" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:22:05.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would ask to see where the radiator is leaking. It should be obvious by the source of the leak whether it was physical damage done during the repair or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your edit, if the crack is in the core (the metal part in the middle between the two tanks, one on each side.) and there is no signs of physical damage like it's been hit with the end of the tool or something then it's not likely that they caused the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will update your question with make model year I can give you more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T21:27:00.530" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T21:27:00.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17311" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:25:59.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &quot;deterioration&quot; doesn't happen overnight. However, I would stop short of suggesting that the shop has damaged the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the shop is referring to some seal, hose or component that is part of the cooling system other than the radiator. Based on the information provided in the question, the most prudent recommendation here would be to ask them to specifically pinpoint the source of the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T20:25:59.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17324" CreationDate="2015-05-29T21:39:10.487" Score="3" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo S60 T5's gearbox (aw55-50sn) has finally broken; it has a slipping third gear and possible clogged up solenoids in the valve body (due to it clonking into &quot;D&quot; mode).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's anyway I can add a different gearbox, maybe a newer version of the old one -an improved one-, or anything that would fit and be better? Or I must replace it with an exactly similar one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1598" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T09:49:20.417" Title="Volvo S60 T5 Auto gearbox replacement" Tags="|automatic-transmission|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T21:54:37.340" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went in to get my AC looked at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They tested it, said that all it needed was a compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was quoted $826 and change to have my air conditioner fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saved up that sum, came in to have it fixed, and then it was discovered, after I took delivery of the vehicle, that the AC was still not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the vehicle back immediately and further diagnostics were performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was at that point that the &quot;large&quot; leak in the evaporator was discovered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimate for the additional evaporator is $700. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not possible for quite some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am out $826, with warm AC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is that the extent of the problem wasn't fully addressed or fully diagnosed, and instead of planning for $826 I should've planned for $1,756, which would've made things different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor was in fact broken, as well as the evaporator, so they all need to be replaced. I'm just not pleased with how the current situation is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would one do in this situation? Suck it up and save the rest? Bring it up to the owner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10661" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T21:54:37.340" Title="Mechanic Didn't Diagnose Full Problem" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T01:13:12.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17322" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:11:19.240" Score="18" ViewCount="7169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17282/why-did-v4-engines-never-take-off&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; which talks about V4 motors, I am wondering &lt;strong&gt;what exactly is the difference between a 180° V4 motor you'd find in a Subaru and a true boxer (or horizontally opposed) flat 4 cylinder&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T23:18:14.440" Title="What is the difference between a 180° V4 and a true boxer motor?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|boxer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:31:07.987" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;In October, I bought new tires for my 2012 Toyota All-Wheel Drive Highlander.  I have only put 4000 miles on them as I have not been able to drive since March due to surgery. Tonight, a family member driving the car ran over a curb and burst the left-front tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the tires are only a few months old and I have only a few thousand miles on them, is it safe to only replace one tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10664" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T01:06:16.567" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:23:51.013" Title="Tire Replacement" Tags="|toyota|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18750" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:32:10.783" Score="6" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm rebuilding a Lucas windshield wiper motor.  It's pretty old and the manual recommends using Ragosine Listate grease for the gear and connecting rod and Shell Turbo 41 for the bearings.  Neither is available anymore but after a lot of internet research, I've found that the modern versions would meet these military specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ragosine:  NATO G-382, British DEF STAN 91-12/1, or US &lt;a href=&quot;http://everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-DTL/download.php?spec=MIL-DTL-23549D.029090.pdf&quot;&gt;MIL-DTL-23549&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shell:  NATO O-240, British &lt;a href=&quot;ftp://ftp.iks-jena.de/mitarb/lutz/standards/dstan/91/025/00000400.pdf&quot;&gt;DEFSTAN 91-25/3:1997&lt;/a&gt; (no US MIL equivalent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found these standards online and lots of companies that claim to meet them.  But I don't understand the technical details well enough to be able to find a consumer/over-the-counter version that I can buy locally (in the US).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody recommend some or translate these standards into plain English? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10663" LastEditorUserId="10663" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T03:28:26.957" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:05:25.217" Title="Looking for a suitable lubricant" Tags="|windshield-wipers|lubrication|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17319" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:23:51.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is safe to replace only the single tire. I would bet you have less than 5% wear on your tires, which means not a whole bunch. You shouldn't cause any issues with anti-lock brakes or anything. Personally, I would only change the one and not worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:23:51.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17318" CreationDate="2015-05-30T02:02:22.770" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: In common usage, there isn't a difference.  The Subaru flat-4 is a boxer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a lovely picture that I found on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manchestersubaru.com/subaru-boxer-engine.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manchester Subaru site&lt;/a&gt; (I'm not a customer but I'm always encouraged when a dealer is willing to provide useful technical material!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRu3c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A close-up of the crankshaft and pistons of a standard Subaru flat-4.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from that picture, the pistons are moving in pairs: the two in the rear are in and the two in the front are out.  This is where the boxer gets its name: the pistons look like they're punching each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting into the technical details (see the great Wikipedia entry on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat engines&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;True boxers have each crankpin controlling only one piston/cylinder&#xA;  while the 180° engines, which superficially appear very similar, share&#xA;  crankpins. The 180° engine, which may be thought of as a type of V&#xA;  engine, is quite uncommon as it has all of the disadvantages of a flat&#xA;  engine, and few of the advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to look closely at the image above but you can see that the pistons are not sharing crank pins.  In the image below we can see a true 180 degree V6 (on the left with shared crank pins) compared to a boxer flat-6 (on the right with individual crank pins as in the Subaru).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0_vs._Boxer.png#/media/File:Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0_vs._Boxer.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7a/Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0_vs._Boxer.png&quot; alt=&quot;Moteurs à Plat - V à 180° vs. Boxer.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0_vs._Boxer.png#/media/File:Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0_vs._Boxer.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moteurs à Plat - V à 180° vs. Boxer&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Frank Lente - http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:Boxermotor.png. Licensed under &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0&quot;&gt;CC BY-SA 3.0&lt;/a&gt; via &lt;a href=&quot;//commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the article, however, the 180 degree V4 is quite uncommon due to its technical limitations.  Note those arrows in the left-hand diagram: instead of having opposing pistons box each other (somewhat cancelling vibration), they would be reinforcing each other.  This would cause a truly distressing torque of the whole engine around the vertical axis, with the direction changing every half rotation of the crankshaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the 180 degree V4 with shared crank pins is so uncommon, the flat-4 boxer effectively  takes its place in terms of &quot;what would you do if you need to increase the angle to 180 degrees?&quot; Therefore, in the common usage we consider a 180 degree V4 and a flat-4 to be effectively the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T18:36:53.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17279" CreationDate="2015-05-30T04:21:43.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray some Windex or wd-40 (if safe) around the end preferably after opening the end with a pliers or your pick or bicycle repair tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6240" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T04:21:43.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17315" CreationDate="2015-05-30T04:45:23.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is only possible if the OEM has a newer version available for the same configuration. Generally if you want to do it on your own I think it is not possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mechanical design has to match the existing gearbox&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The automatic transmissions have electronics which are controlled by an ECU and this ECU has to work for the new AT that you want to install. This is difficult to achieve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the ECU along with the transmission, again there is a problem. Today's ECUs communicate with each other via CAN bus. If you change the ECU, then the ECU CAN ids will change and the other ECUs will not be able to identify the new one thus generating DTCs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T04:45:23.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17328" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screwdriver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on screwdrivers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Phillips screwdrivers come in several standard sizes, ranging from tiny &quot;jeweler's&quot; to those used for automobile frame assembly—or #00 to #3 respectively. This size number is usually stamped onto the shank (shaft) or handle for identification. Each bit size fits a range of screw sizes, more or less well. Each Phillips screwdriver size also has a related shank diameter. The driver has a 57° point and tapered, unsharp (rounded) flutes. By far the most commonly found size around the household, automobile, and office is the #2, —which fits computers, printers and photocopiers, light switches, carburetors, furniture, household appliances, door hinges, and so forth. The second most commonly seen household Phillips screw is the #1, which fits calculators, cameras, smaller toys, and cell phone sized devices. The #1 and smaller bits come to a blunt point, but the #2 and above have no point, but rather a nearly squared-off tip, making each size incompatible with the other. A &quot;#2 x 6 Phillips screwdriver&quot; designation as commonly seen in tool catalogs describes a Number Two bit with a six-inch-long shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17329" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" Score="0" Body="Cross tipped screwdriver." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:23:53.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17232" CreationDate="2015-05-30T18:37:24.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cat is the incorrect part for your vehicle. You are looking for the Federal ones, which are 49 state compliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic Converter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/displaydirectfit01.asp?catalogid=46385&amp;amp;directfit=24064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MagnaFlow Part #24064&lt;/a&gt; (Fits GT, so you may want to check with MagnaFlow to ensure it will work with your engine ... check if your engine is a 1ZZFE motor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cat Back Muffler: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=all&amp;amp;id=8581&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MagnaFlow Part #15812&lt;/a&gt; is correct for your vehicle, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubts and want to stick with the MagnaFlow line of exhaust systems, you can always call them. Like most major aftermarket brands, they have a tech line which will be more than happy to help you out: 1.800.824.8664 or via email: moreinfo@magnaflow.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T18:37:24.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:59:48.407" Score="4" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4 cylinder engine. I parked my car after leaving the laundry mart and I got in to pick up my children and it would crank but won't start. So we changed the spark plugs, wires, ingnition coils, a new battery. Before the battery after we did the wires and coils and plugs it still would get a spark. So I checked the fuse box under the hood and the yellow number 20 was burnt so replaced it and it started right up. When that happened the brake light, battery light came on and my thermometer went by the red line. As I stopped and go it went up and down but never over over heated. Even after we replaced the battery. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T21:43:37.803" LastActivityDate="2023-12-28T02:03:10.410" Title="Mitsubishi Galant over heating with battery light and brake light on" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|galant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T21:26:44.140" Score="2" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 04 Mercury Grand Marquis auto temp controlled A/C was working fine last night when I parked it. I got in it today, and it has no fan speeds at all, and the compressor is kicking on and off. I'm not having anything coming from the vents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10673" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T21:48:44.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T21:51:30.667" Title="2004 Mercury Marquis LS A/C &amp; fan problems" Tags="|ac|mercury|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-05-11T00:18:58.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17336" CreationDate="2015-05-30T21:49:43.753" Score="2" ViewCount="18956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2010 Civic with about 80k kilometers on it and it makes a screeching or squealing noise when I drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked other relevant posts + googling, and I suspect brakes, not the fan belt (because the noise is not constant). Here's what I've seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When driving, sometimes there's a noise (like an oscillation); most often when/after I turn right. It increases in frequency with the car velocity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The noise occurs sometimes when driving straight or turning left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The noise didn't occur in the rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overnight, the probability of the noise occurring dropped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The noise doesn't occur when I brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When reversing, there's a constant screeching noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it my brakes, or something else? I had a test-drive with a mechanic, and he suggested that it is indeed the brakes, most likely the rear ones. (I'll find out tomorrow when he opens it up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T21:56:57.970" Title="Squealing noise when reversing and turning, from RHS of car" Tags="|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17333" CreationDate="2015-05-30T21:51:30.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more than likely the resistor pack which is on most vehicles, is located in the air box with the blower fan under your passenger side foot well. It should look something like this for your car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9rnX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulled From RockAuto.com&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8Rpb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulled From RockAuto.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T21:51:30.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17334" CreationDate="2015-05-30T21:56:57.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanic is most likely spot on. Disk brakes (assuming you have rear disk brakes) have what is called a &lt;em&gt;squealer&lt;/em&gt; on them. When the pad gets thin enough, the squealer touches the rotor. As it rotates, the squealer ... well ... &lt;em&gt;squeals&lt;/em&gt;. This is most likely the noise you are hearing. When you press on the brakes, the squealer is pressed harder against the rotor and quits making the noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T21:56:57.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17619" CreationDate="2015-05-30T23:47:34.570" Score="5" ViewCount="16857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my rear-passenger side Caliper, Caliper Bracket, Rotor, and Brake-pads due to the rotor, pads, and caliper bracket grinding together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt; 2000 Blazer 4WD, recently had front brake troubles, fixed them and they appear to be fine. At that time we noticed the rear-passenger-side outer brake-pad was needing replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt; The brakes were grinding horribly while driving at all speeds (not even braking) after just replacing the pads. The caliper bracket needed replaced because it had been grinding a bit too (I suspect that it was the screeching noise I heard while turning right). Brakes were also inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Changed&lt;/strong&gt;: New Caliper, Caliper Bracket, Rotor, and Brake-Pads on the rear-passenger-side wheel, bled the brakes at that wheel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Previous Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt; The brake pads and rotor are lightly grinding while driving at around +15MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Changed&lt;/strong&gt;: Removed one of the &quot;shims&quot; (little thin metal-piece) from inside the caliper bracket (above/between the brake-pads).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt; The rear-passenger-side rim is still getting hot (like stove-top hot or hotter). When going around curves where the vehicle's weight shifts squeaking begins emitting from that corner of the vehicle and continues for a while, eventually dissipating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last Summer&lt;/strong&gt;: Replaced rear brake-line as there was a leak and pedal was going to the floor. Appeared to be fully working after replacing and bleeding 20+ times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Christmas Eve&lt;/strong&gt;: T-bone accident on rear-driver-side. Replaced the Leaf-spring, some black charcoal box-thing, brake-lines and emergency brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance &lt;strong&gt;2-4 weeks prior&lt;/strong&gt;: Front-brakes were grinding due to bad CV-Joint. Fixed the front (both sides) Rotor and Brake-pads. Replaced CV-Joint. Rear brake-pads checked and replaced (inner perfect condition, outer a bit worn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Original&quot; maintenance &lt;strong&gt;1-2 weeks prior&lt;/strong&gt;: Replaced rear-passenger-side Caliper, caliper bracket, rotor, and brake-pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Previous&quot; maintenance &lt;strong&gt;last weekend&lt;/strong&gt;: Removed the &quot;shim&quot; (little thin metal-piece inside the caliper bracket above/between the brake-pads). We removed this after realizing the other side didn't have it and the problem hadn't been solved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: Updated question with vehicle history and better summation of events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could bad &lt;em&gt;Ball Bearings&lt;/em&gt; be a culprit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think to mention is that before removing that &quot;shim&quot; the pads were pushed inside the caliper bracket more than I pushed them in originally (I pushed them to the edge). After we removed the &quot;shim&quot; it moved the pads back to the edge (and therefore no longer touching the rotor directly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastEditorUserId="6403" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T03:35:59.640" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T03:19:20.387" Title="New Pads, Rotor, &amp; Caliper; Grinding, Squeaking, and Heat" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15666" CreationDate="2015-05-31T12:12:07.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid idling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive in Top gear when possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the Tires inflated to factory specifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid hard accelerations and decelerations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T12:12:07.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2015-05-31T12:27:09.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel not have idle control valve as there is no concept of throttling and therefore no throttle pressure sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the possibility could be a bad Acceleration pedal sensor which can give a wrong input to ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T12:27:09.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2015-05-31T12:36:23.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess its an issue with the transmission. If it was an electrical issue you get a warning light in the cluster. I have encountered a similar case in Mercedes E class which had a similar issue, but the other way around. Reverse won't work. We overhauled the entire transmission and the issue got fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T12:36:23.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17305" CreationDate="2015-05-31T15:45:44.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car  has an engine designed with city based environments in minds so you will have a short gear ratio meaning you will have to shift lot of gears in the city but on the other hand car will be economical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine optimal shifting time you need to look at the power graph of your car, the picture below shows the dyno of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKt59.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the the bottom line you can know that your car produces peak HP at around 3000 RPM so if you want better acceleration and performance shifting at around 2800 to 3000 RPM will be optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you want economy shifting at 2000RPM will prove much efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed however depends on the load the car is carrying and other factors which is not possible to theoretically determine. You need to observe that and shift accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is never recommended to change gears at the maximum RPM for a city car since  you will get very very less gas mileage and  &lt;strong&gt;is harmful&lt;/strong&gt; for your engine in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that, Changing gears still depends on a lot of factors which can only be determined by you when you drive, as a bonus I googled and got the below info on your car's shifting speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I cannot gurantee authenticity of the below information and  i do not endorse the below speeds Just use for reference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 st gear : as short as possible &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 nd gear: to 35/40 max&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 th gear: 40-60km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 gear : 60-85&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 gear : 70-&gt; km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T15:45:44.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17347" CreationDate="2015-05-31T18:46:48.357" Score="4" ViewCount="1901" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I drive my truck for 30 min with just water in my system, would it be equivalent to just flushing it stationary (the proper way to flush it)? IOW, if I just drive around with a clean water refill in the coolant system instead of keeping the truck in place and then draining, would it be an okay way to flush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T22:49:40.653" Title="Flushing coolant after driving only with water in" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2015-05-31T19:19:44.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars (not Kia) can have a compressor bypass pulley installed &amp;amp; forget the compressor.  Pulley &amp;amp; mount about $75 on internet and a couple local mechanic to remove old &amp;amp; install new pulley.  50 MPH air conditioning os just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10679" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T19:19:44.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17345" CreationDate="2015-05-31T19:24:58.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would make no difference if you are standing still or driving the vehicle. You want to ensure you have the heater wide open when you do it to ensure you are getting the old fluid from the heater core as well as the engine. Driving the vehicle around will probably allow the process to happen a little faster, as you engine will get up to operating temperature faster. The real thing you are trying to accomplish is to get the thermostat open to allow everything to circulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T19:24:58.437" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-31T19:33:23.227" Score="6" ViewCount="17454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way in modern vehicles to know when the thermostat is on vs off? Is it possible to tell when you don't have access to under the hood, IOW when you're driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T22:40:59.747" Title="How to know when thermostat is open?" Tags="|thermostat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17348" CreationDate="2015-05-31T21:02:46.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will know the thermostat is open when the engine reaches operating temperature. The thermostat opens just before or around the operating temp of the engine. Most modern vehicles have some sort of temperature gauge in them. If it's just a needle, you'll notice where the needle rests under normal operating conditions (most that I've seen sit right in the middle of the gauge, give or take a few degrees of arc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a temperature gauge, you can tell when the thermostat is open for sure by noticing the heat coming off of the upper radiator hose. It will become very warm very fast, so watch when you touch it your hand doesn't linger or you will get burned. Your radiator will start heating up at this point as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you radiator has a cap installed directly on it, you can start to see radiator fluid being circulated in the end tank of the radiator associated with the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, if your vehicle has a separate pressure tank with the radiator cap installed on it, you should be able to start seeing the coolant circulating through it when the thermostat becomes open ... that is as long as the tank is clear or semi-clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note is that after the engine is up to temperature, the thermostat will be in various states of &quot;open&quot;, meaning, it will always be open to a state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T21:02:46.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17351" CreationDate="2015-05-31T22:58:52.697" Score="5" ViewCount="281433" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving some time, is it normal that the plastic spillover coolant tank, usually attached to the fan housing, that takes boiling overflow, get so hot that you get bubbles boiling out of it even though the engine itself, according to the temperature gauge on the dashboard, does not get overheated? Is it an indicator that the engine borderlines overheating? Or is it a normal occurrence to have it boil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just recently had some overheating issues on my 4wd Tacoma and, after replacing the thermostat, water pump and radiator cap, the truck drives fine &lt;strong&gt;WITH JUST TAP WATER IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM&lt;/strong&gt; (which I will replace with real coolant after I'm done testing) but, when I check the coolant spillover tank right after driving, I see it mildly boiling and I'm curious if that's a sign of potentially more overheating or is normal. So maybe I thought it was getting to a simmering point because it's just water and not 50/50 mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqPhH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;coolant spillover tank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T16:44:38.533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T13:15:48.273" Title="Coolant spillover tank boiling but engine not overheating" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17350" CreationDate="2015-06-01T01:27:12.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is usually caused by a weak radiator cap. Weak meaning it is no longer holding the pressure which is needed inside the system. Since you said you just replaced the cap, having just water in the system will lower the boiling point and may cause over pressure in the system. You'll also want to ensure you have the entire system burped of all air, which also causes hot spots inside the engine. Easiest way to do this is to fill it from the radiator with the front of the truck pointing uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do get this fixed, you'll need to ensure you drain the entire system to get the tap water out. Then you'll want to refill with 50/50 mix which utilizes distilled water instead of tap water, which will introduce minerals and contaminants into the system which degrades it over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:27:12.893" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17354" CreationDate="2015-06-01T05:22:39.470" Score="3" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to replace a cracked air box on my 2002 Honda Civic Si. The one question I have is how do I get the old air box bolts out of the old air box top half and into the new one since it did not come with bolts and the bolts on the old one do not come out all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10682" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T07:29:00.580" Title="2002 Honda Civic Si Air Box" Tags="|honda|civic|air-filter|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17356" CreationDate="2015-06-01T06:42:13.903" Score="6" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just few days before I wanted to take Audi A4 B5 1.6 (year: 2000) to 'preventive' service. I've started the car normally, only the motor sound was very weird. So I tried to make a test drive. I couldn't reach any higher/normal speed. From the car exhaust flowed probably pure petrol(wasn't mixed?!) which everybody could smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend adviced that I should replace the oxygen sensor (lambda sonda in our language). So I order a new one and replaced it. But that still didn't work. So I scanned it with the VAG com tool, which returned the results on the image attached.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of those (if, of course) are related directly to the issue, I've described? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;p.s.&lt;/strong&gt;  sorry for my bad english and (possible) bad technical knowledge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wg8Nf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10683" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T09:13:46.390" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:57:36.773" Title="2000 Audi A4 1.6 weak motor power" Tags="|troubleshooting|audi|dtc|a4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17352" CreationDate="2015-06-01T07:29:00.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search appears to indicate that this is a common issue on this particular model of Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt does not want to come out all the way because the heat from the engine over time has liberated the plastic female housing that it threads into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove it you need to figure out a way to keep the plastic from spinning when the bolt is turned, as per the advice of someone who's &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.autos.makers.honda/--PKq5KAUnM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;been there, done that&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The heat from the engine has weakened the plastic around the bolts that hold&#xA;  the screws in place.  As a result, when you attempt to turn the screw,&#xA;  the bolt isn't held stationary by the plastic as was intended.&#xA;  Instead, the bolt spins, and in my case, this spinning caused the&#xA;  plastic surrounding the bolt to split in places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The solution is simple: find a new way to hold the bolt while&#xA;  unscrewing the screw.  My mechanic and I just broke off the plastic&#xA;  around the screws enough that we could fit a wrench in to hold the&#xA;  base.  Of course, this won't fix the problem permanently, and will&#xA;  only work if some of the screws are not suffering from this condition&#xA;  (in my case, the screw in the center and the two screws on the side of&#xA;  the box opposite the engine were still usable, and are now the only&#xA;  screws that hold the lid down on my air filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T07:29:00.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17337" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:39:47.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the wheel/hub spinning freely while the brakes were off? (to rule out other causes of noise) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any signs of things touching that shouldn't? (the stone-shield behind the brakes is a common culprit of this, as it can easily get bent slightly out of shape)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When replacing them, were there any noticeable differences between the brakes/hub/etc on that side and the other side? (you did change the ones on the other side as well, didn't you?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth checking the condition of the brake lines - the rubber hoses can perish over time, and block the inside of the line. This then created an effective one-way valve - the pressure of you applying the brakes is enough to overcome the blockage, but the return pressure isn't, so effectively the brakes lock on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T15:47:17.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T15:47:17.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17353" CreationDate="2015-06-01T09:57:36.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, no worries on the &lt;em&gt;bad English&lt;/em&gt; side of things ... even those of us who speak it have issues sometimes! '-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your issue(s) ... the first thing I do when I've encountered a large number of codes as you've gotten is clear the computer, then rerun the engine to see which codes persist. This gets you a lot closer to the root cause of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can look at your codes and lump them into several categories. First of all, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0420&lt;/a&gt; code is saying your catalytic converter is working not so well. You said you smelled un-burned fuel, so this is how I'd expect your cat to be working. This is not your root cause and should be cleared up when we solve the issue (as long as it hasn't become saturated with fuel, which is another issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, looking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0300&lt;/a&gt;, P0302, &amp;amp; P0303 ... these all have to do with cylinder intermittent misfires. While this is an issue, the fact they are intermittent and on multiple cylinders (cyl 2 &amp;amp; 3), yet the vehicle is still running, tells me this is not the root cause of the problem, either. These, too, should clear up when you solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0172&lt;/a&gt;, which is telling us bank 1 is reading a too rich condition. It is reporting that the engine is running too rich, which is what we'd expect if smelling un-burned fuel out the exhaust. This, too, is not the root cause and should be cleared up when you solve the primary issue. You may find, however, since there was an extreme amount of fuel dumped into the system, the O2 (I'm assuming this is your new sensor as well) may have been damaged in the process. This may come back to life after the excess fuel quits dumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0134&lt;/a&gt; code is saying your bank 1 sensor 1 has a null reading. Since your engine is a four cylinder engine, bank 1 is the only bank it has, and sensor 1 refers to the upstream (before catalytic converter) sensor. The write up from obd-codes.com states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a baseline voltage of about 450 mV on the oxygen sensor signal circuit. When cold, the PCM detects the the internal resistance of the sensor is high. As the sensor warms up the resistance is lowered and it starts producing voltage based on the oxygen content in the exhaust. When the PCM determines that the time it took for the sensor to warm up is greater than one minute or that the voltage is inactive (not reading outside 391-491 mV it views the sensor as inactive or open and sets the P0134 code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be an issue here, but at this point, I'd suggest when you clear the codes, this may or may not come back. If it does come back, it might also be the richness of the exhaust which may be causing the O2 sensor to not become warm enough in the one minute given. Still, it may be a good idea to check the connections to your O2 sensor and ensure the wiring is good. Also, check to see that the O2 heater circuit fuse is in good shape. Replace it if blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves us with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0102&lt;/a&gt;, which has to do with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. I think this is where the problem lies, in one of two ways. Either the sensor is dirty or not connected properly, or it may be a combination of both. Since this happened all of a sudden, I'd lean more towards connection end of things than it being dirty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is two fold: First, check to ensure your MAF has the proper connection. The wiring may have been compromised somewhere between it and the computer. Double check all of it. Pull the plug and make sure it is clean inside (no corrosion) or bent pins. Since you are right there anyway, go ahead and clean your MAF with electronics cleaner. Be careful when you do so as the MAF is a delicate creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think once you get the issue with your MAF squared away, your root issues will be resolved and your engine &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; start running right again. I say it may start running right again, that is as long as the overly rich condition hasn't harmed any sensors or the catalytic converter. They may clear up after the engine gets running good again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the MAF doesn't square your problems away, this may be a multi-problem issue. The next place I'd look is to see if one (or more) of your injectors may be in some state of stuck open. This would cause the very rich smell exhaust smell as well as the poor running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:57:36.773" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:56:55.033" Score="2" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2015 Fiesta S (the one with the chrome braces&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnZmv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This one&quot;&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that the kit that I found on fordpartsuk will work, as it seems like it's the same shape...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPy9x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the kit that I hope fits&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_fiesta_sporty_grille_kit_from_2012_to_2014_f_KITFIETRIM18.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_fiesta_sporty_grille_kit_from_2012_to_2014_f_KITFIETRIM18.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have any experience doing this kinda swap on a US Fiesta?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10688" LastEditorUserId="10688" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T16:15:20.723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T16:15:20.723" Title="Replacing the 2015 Fiesta S's ugly chrome grill with a Euro kit?" Tags="|ford|body-work|fiesta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T17:04:15.090" Score="7" ViewCount="33398" Body="&lt;p&gt;My MB C300 will not start. I put the key in and turn it but nothing happens. The radio and internal lights do come on but not the car. The steering wheel is locked and can't put it on Neutral either (to push it out the garage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of troubleshooting steps that I tried (obtained from reading forums and calling around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purchased a new battery assuming the root cause was the battery since it had a sticker date of 5/11 close to 5 years. Although the internal lights would come on and was able to lock and unlock the car (using main remote key) I thought it just did not have enough juice to crank the car. &lt;strong&gt;A new battery did not fix the issue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tried turning the car on using the &lt;strong&gt;spare key&lt;/strong&gt;. If the battery on your  main remote key is low it can be the root cause for the car not starting (per local mechanic).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Visually inspected all fuses and looked for a blown fuse, none found. I will be keeping this car for ever so I purchased a decent &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00S4B1IUI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;code scanner&lt;/a&gt; I can diagnose what the internal computer logs is giving out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(5 days later) The scanner arrived, configured it for my car model. Ran diagnostic test, error results are as follows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A25407 (1/1) - The electronic steering lock has a malfunction. There is a mechanical fault.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A15F11 (2/2) - Relay 1 'Circuit 15R' has a malfunction. There is a short circuit to ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;C01988 (1/2) - Interior CAN communication has a malfunction. CAN bus OFF default&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;B126231 (1/3) - No communication with the compass&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B126322 (2/2) Compass: Signal amplitude too large&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B127A54 (3/3) Compass: Incorrect calibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the error keeping the car from starting are the &lt;strong&gt;A15F11&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;A25407&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0m0DEtRsxc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt;  shows the unit at fault. The car has to go to the dealer for repair since it will eventually require key programing something only dealers can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10689" LastEditorUserId="10689" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T13:29:22.817" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T15:35:56.007" Title="2008 MB C300 Will not start" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6143" CreationDate="2015-06-01T17:18:49.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aminfar,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 75k miles, which I actually just purchased recently. I am not a mechanic, but when I called about replacing power steering in my Hyundai I was suggested Prestone Power Steering Fluid (which I picked up at my local Autozone). My mechanic friend told me Prestone is the next best thing since they don't make PSF-3 anymore. Got it for around $7.00, and I topped it off and I'm not hearing any problems. Just took a trip for 600 miles and it was smooth sailing. Planning to flush it out since it's past due for an actual flush. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10690" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:18:49.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16256" CreationDate="2015-06-01T17:27:46.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a definitive resolution for this, but I figured it was coming from the front left brake since it was so loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disassembled the brake system and noticed the slide pins were dry. After cleaning them I greased them with ceramic brake lubricant. The problem is the part of the caliper bracket it slides within is very rusty, so the grease gets contaminated pretty much immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also greased the pads where they contact the caliper bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also replaced the rotor and wheel bearing assembly. The rotor was within spec but was massively warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, no more howling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:27:46.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17368" CreationDate="2015-06-01T18:38:08.013" Score="0" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lever that controls the inclination angle of the car seat in my Honda Civic 2001 EX broke. I have been trying to look for a replacement lever, but I can't seem to find one on Amazon. Do I need to figure out exactly what the name of the seat brand is in order to find the lever I need? How should I be searching for parts when I need them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7916" LastEditorUserId="7916" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T21:12:30.947" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T10:16:05.013" Title="Locating a correct replacement for Honda Civic seat lever" Tags="|parts|interior|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12566" CreationDate="2015-06-01T19:39:16.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the tire for play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the car on a jackstand near the corner you want to check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the tire on the left and right and alternate pushing/pulling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same top to bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top to bottom is usually ball-joint. Left to right is sometimes tie rod and sometimes wheel bearing. The important thing is that if there's play, something is wrong and needs further inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9705" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T19:39:16.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26782" CreationDate="2015-06-02T04:35:21.943" Score="4" ViewCount="8565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a &lt;strong&gt;2001 Chevrolet Lumina&lt;/strong&gt; and I was just wondering if someone here has had any experience like mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was driving on the highway and then suddenly the car had turned itself off automatically, the steering wheel got harder to steer and the brake got pretty hard when stepping on it. I pulled over and then I shifted to Park.  I then tried to turn the car back on and it worked.  Then after like 20 minutes, again the same thing and then I had to turn it back on and 5 minutes later just getting home again the same thing. Any ideas what might be wrong with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are some other things that might be related, if it’s not that would be a big coincidence:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approximately 2 months ago I helped a guy to start his car and the guy connected the cables in the wrong order + and - the cables got pretty hot but then I put them right and that worked. About a day after that I got the VOLTS light on on my dashboard and the next day my car died on the highway just like it did today but that time I couldn't start it again or turn the radio on or anything, so I had to have it towed, the mechanic told me the problem was the alternator so he put an used one and then it started working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two days ago all the lights (I mean the lights that supposed to be on at night) were off except for the headlights and then I checked the fuse box and one fuse was almost melted, I changed it and when I started the car I noticed that that fuse was getting pretty hot but it was working, and then I thought well, I'm going to leave it until the fuse bursts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10693" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T09:17:30.573" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T19:28:14.227" Title="Car turning itself off in highway" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|ignition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17367" CreationDate="2015-06-02T05:28:39.013" Score="6" ViewCount="29042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that almost all of Honda's cars have an &quot;i-VTEC&quot; logo at the back. I googled it and came to know that it has something to do with different cam profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain? A diagram or animation would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why does Honda do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T07:48:21.910" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T20:38:22.447" Title="What exactly is Honda's i-VTEC technology" Tags="|engine|honda|camshaft|valve-timing|vtec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2015-06-02T06:31:43.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carthrottle.com/post/everything-you-need-to-know-about-vtec/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt; does a decent job of explaining VTEC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.carthrottle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VTEC-Sys.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VTEC Explained&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paraphrasing the Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;), you have two cam profiles, one designed for low-RPM operation and fuel efficiency, the second (taller cam) for performance. The ECU decides when to select which profile based on several engine parameters by actuating the locking pin that runs through the rocker arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T06:31:43.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17365" CreationDate="2015-06-02T07:35:26.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Zaid's answer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VTEC - &lt;strong&gt;V&lt;/strong&gt;ariable Valve &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;iming and Lift &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;lectronic &lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;ontrol)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In essence, it selects between two different cam profiles depending on the RPM.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's an animation -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkOtD.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is how a cam controls poppet valves. Read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cam profile here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW5tN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;cam&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For volumetric efficiency we want the intake stroke to fill the cylinder with the max - air-fuel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'l jump to the need for having a different cam profile at higher RPM's  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Timing&lt;/strong&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake&lt;/strong&gt; -  Valve isn't open long enough for the air (or air-fuel mix) to completely fill up the cylinder under the given pressure gradient. &#xA;We could help this situation by using a different cam profile which allows the cam to be open for longer. This means the intake valve is open even after the piston reaches the bottom of the intake stroke. Air at this velocity has sufficient momentum to continue to push and compress into the cylinder even as the piston is moving up for the compression stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust&lt;/strong&gt; - we could do something clever here as well. If we open the intake stroke as well (overlap) at the end of the exhaust stroke we end up using the momentum of the exhaust to suck in air from the intake port!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LIFT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lift control basically equates to changing the effective area of the 'hole'. At higher RPM's we would benefit by using a bigger 'hole' and hence the cam profile is such that it also pushes the poppets deeper. Since the size of the port is a tuned parameter, using a bigger hole all the time will result in the engine running rough.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So vtec's switch between two distinct cam profiles which is selected by the ecu depending on the RPM. There is a distinct surge that can be felt at the switch-over point.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZpcWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course we could benefit even further by having a continuous control over lift and timing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDITION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's are two videos showing in depth inner-workings of the system on the engine itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtRlQrAc5IY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cam Phasing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDuCEiZSGXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vtec Solenoid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T10:08:27.227" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T10:08:27.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17361" CreationDate="2015-06-02T10:16:05.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part you are looking for is either called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partswebsite.com/autopartspeople/?i=2&amp;amp;make=126&amp;amp;model=2146&amp;amp;year=2001&amp;amp;type=parts&amp;amp;act=new_subcategory_hp&amp;amp;section=126&amp;amp;catid=30183&amp;amp;subcatid=33760&amp;amp;fl_id=57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;release lever&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partswebsite.com/autopartspeople/?i=2&amp;amp;make=126&amp;amp;model=2146&amp;amp;year=2001&amp;amp;type=parts&amp;amp;act=new_subcategory_hp&amp;amp;section=126&amp;amp;catid=30183&amp;amp;subcatid=32423&amp;amp;fl_id=57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recline knob&lt;/a&gt; ... I don't know which, so you'll have to figure which one you need. You may want to call the company and figure out which one is correct for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T10:16:05.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17369" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-02T10:55:01.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bajaj is an Indian motorcycle manufacturer who also holds a majority of share in the KTM company.&#xA;The KTM Duke/RC 200 and 390 are manufactured in India by Bajaj.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T11:14:16.007" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T11:14:16.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17370" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-02T10:55:01.520" Score="0" Body="Indian Motorcycle Manufacturer." OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T11:14:09.360" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T11:14:09.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17358" CreationDate="2015-06-02T13:13:16.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In MB, the ignition key is inserted into a component called EZS which is basically an ignition key control unit which also doubles as an immobilzer control unit. E ngine control unit, EZS, transmission control unit and electronic steering lock control unit are all part of the immobiliser system. Based on your symptoms with respect to shifting, steering and starting I guess the issue is with the ignition key control unit. Start checking the fuse. Connect the scanner and read the actual values. There are CAN messages from EZS to other control units which will give a hint. Also read the DTCs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T13:13:16.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17385" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:16:57.950" Score="5" ViewCount="136150" Body="&lt;p&gt;The previous owner ran tap water in the cooling system for few years, and we have very heavy, mineral rich water locally.  When I bought the car about six months ago, I drained the water, and put a standard pre-mixed &amp;quot;green&amp;quot; glycol based coolant in as per the manuals recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I replaced the thermostat ( actually there was no thermostat -- eeck ! ) and upon peeking into the engine blocks coolant passages I saw the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCUxq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to re-fill with tap water yesterday as one of my hoses sprung a leak ( replaced the hose today ) and I was wondering if one it's worth trying to clean out the system, and two is it even possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car-care/389207-citric-acid-to-remove-radiator-rust.html#post1063731562&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using distilled water and vinegar&lt;/a&gt; to get out the mineral deposits, although I'm worried that might react with any remnants of coolant in the system or maybe attack the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2214543-post5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quoting some unknown person on this forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search under my name...Ive done the citrus flush twice and both times other components have been taken out, like the radiator, water pump etc. Im not saying dont do it, just be ready - anything that is on the edge of failure will be pushed over. Have your credit card warmed up and parts supplier ready forewarned :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, if your cooling system is functioning properly, I would not do the citrus flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it safe&lt;/em&gt;, and is it worth doing, or should I just drain the water and fill back up with my normal &amp;quot;green&amp;quot; coolant?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;POSTSCRIPT Oct. 6th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I did a vinegar flush my water pump fins looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdSUh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdSUh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards it looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/783Rm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/783Rm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the fins were melted off the impeller!  Of course, this may be partially my fault for getting busy and leaving the vinegar in overnight, but you should definitely be careful as there is a real risk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T13:19:13.083" Title="Flushing built up Rust and Mineral Deposits in Cooling System" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|radiator|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9184" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:42:25.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting oil into the coolant, odds are there's coolant in your oil too (a much worse symptom).  You likely have a piston ring problem or headgasket is blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7453" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:42:25.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17364" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:58:23.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dont know if it is related, but had a similar incidence after I replaced my old battery with a new one. My car suddenly turned off while slowing down near a roundabout. I looked through web and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2209950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link. Check the reply by &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Uncle Scotty&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. Followed the instructions and its all good until now for me. &#xA;Hope this helps for you as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is once the battery is replaced, the memory in ECM is erased. I guess when you connected the cables in wrong order the battery got disconnected and reset the ECM. Please go through rest of the replies on that page to know the reason behind it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10067" LastEditorUserId="10067" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T09:41:34.417" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T09:41:34.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15874" CreationDate="2015-06-02T17:06:17.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knock sensor is just acoustic device. Any materials between it and block will distort sound and signal. If you asking about wiring ground point - it is also doesn't influence on anything. So, my opinion is ignore grease. Hope I understand you correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T17:06:17.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17413" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:17:23.107" Score="3" ViewCount="10742" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;Dr:&lt;/strong&gt; I want my hazards to flash with the central locking. I need to wire them up together with a diode to each side (left and right). The central locking has 3 wires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any better solutions for making the hazard lights flash with remote locking? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what each wire does? Why are there three?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can I test which wire is positive and negative? I have a DT-830B multimeter, with basic probes (sharp pointy ones). I don't want to splice into every wire and just use trial and error, and then tape up the ones which are wrong (I would only as a last resort).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has remote locking. However, the hazard lights do not flash with this. It is by design, and there is physically no connection between the flashers/hazards and the central locking control unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Why am I asking? **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often walk away from my car and lock it remotely. When it rains I don't want to have to fumble around to make sure the car is locked, and I always have the panic half a mile down the road of thinking &quot;Have I locked the car?&quot;.&#xA;The hazard lights would be incredibly useful, so when I lock or unlock the car, the hazards flash once. This is all I need to acknowledge that I have locked the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make them flash, by splicing into the wires in the Lower Left (passenger) A-Pillar. I have access to a dealership tool (TIS2000), with wiring diagrams for the entire car. I had a look at the wiring diagram for the central locking and the flashers/hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My plan:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To spice into the central locking wire, and run two wires each through a diode (so when I indicate both of the indicators flash!), and then into the hazard light wire for each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The good news:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires are literally right next to each other, and it's not a particularly difficult job to wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bad news:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The central locking has 3 wires! I have no idea which wire does what, and I don't particularly like the idea of splicing into each and having a quick test to see if it is positive or negative.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hazards will flash if I push the button to lock the entire car on the inside of the car, (Only on the driver's side). However, I never lock the doors when I drive, so this is rarely an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the wiring diagrams and connector locations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connectors in the A-Pillar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmI9F.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entire Central Locking Control Unit (Not very clear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkod5.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock Motor Wiring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hS4hc.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hazard Lights/Flasher/Indicator Lights Wiring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDgob.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Size Images:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hS4hc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hS4hc.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDgob.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDgob.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmI9F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmI9F.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkod5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gkod5.png&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any better solutions for making the hazard lights flash with remote locking?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what each wire does?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can I test which wire is positive and negative? I have a DT-830B multimeter, with basic probes (sharp pointy ones). I don't want to splice into every wire and just use trial and error, and then tape up the ones which are wrong (I would only as a last resort).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T14:57:12.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T15:47:50.273" Title="Central Locking Help: Why are there 3 wires for each door lock?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|lights|locks|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17396" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:45:17.303" Score="9" ViewCount="140661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a definitive way to test whether head gaskets in most engines are blown, without actually reaching for the gaskets themselves (at which point you might as well go ahead and replace them) assuming that the engine is overheating and that all the components of the cooling system are checked positive and are not leaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-75500?seid=srese1&amp;amp;gclid=CKHpiszU8cUCFYwYHwod_YIAcQ&quot;&gt;block testing&lt;/a&gt; as well as using coolant that has dye in it, which would leave trace on the spark plugs.  Are these good ways to check and are there any other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T18:53:15.833" Title="How to test if head gaskets are blown?" Tags="|cooling-system|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T18:58:16.103" Score="1" ViewCount="4275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2011 Ford F150.  After new tires, new brakes and rotors and a wheel balance, the truck rides fine at all speeds and braking is good.  However, when I enter into an exit ramp and brake while in a turn, my steering wheel shakes and doesn't stop until after I am in a straight away for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10698" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T19:06:52.260" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:08:46.697" Title="steering wheel shakes in a turn" Tags="|ford|brakes|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17381" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:08:57.077" Score="3" ViewCount="5879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm installing a break controller &amp;amp; 7-pin receptacle for towing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring diagram I am following (below) shows the 7-pin and brake controller wired directly to the battery. I want to know if I can wire to a switched source (only when the car is on) and if that's doable, then what is the best switched source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EhcV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wiring diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10699" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T20:40:46.383" Title="Does a brake controller need direct battery connection, or would a switched source work?" Tags="|electrical|battery|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17380" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:13:31.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be but you will need a relay with the capacity to carry at least 40 amps (based on your diagram, your brakes may require more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a relay similar to what is pictured below. I wouldn't go with anything smaller than a 50 amp continuous duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdaRx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0050I94XG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continuous Duty Solenoid 80AMP 12V&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use a relay like the one below, but I haven't had good luck with this style when used for high amperage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PxroH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209138.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;12 Volt DC 50 Amp Continuous duty&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would connect the contact circuit directly to the fuse that's connected directly to the battery, with the other end connected to the brake controler. The control circuit can be connected to almost any key on power source, as it only draws a small amount of current&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T20:40:46.383" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T20:40:46.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17390" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:36:02.387" Score="9" ViewCount="41294" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I just replaced my engine oil but decided I want to lift the valve covers to do some gasket replacement.  I know it may sound cheap but I'd rather not throw away $25 worth of almost new oil.  Would it be safe to catch the old oil in a receptacle and set it aside and put it back into the engine once I am done with my repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T10:45:23.043" Title="Is it safe to reuse oil that was drained for a repair?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17382" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:13:37.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with doing this at all.  Just make sure that you keep the oil clean and put back in as much as you take out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you don't think about keeping oil clean as it drains since you're going to dispose of it anyway, so take precautions: use only new or thoroughly cleaned funnels and drain pans, wear clean rubber gloves as you unscrew the drain plug, and clean the surfaces of the engine below and around the plug as well as you can beforehand, if your car has a tendency (like most do) to dribble some oil partway down the block or along the pan when you drain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good idea to keep the &quot;almost-new&quot; oil in an airtight container with as little air space above the level of the oil itself if it's going to be out of the engine for more than a day or so, to minimize absorption of moisture from the air.  (Don't worry too much, as a little water in the crankcase does no harm--it's generated all the time as a byproduct of combustion and normally just boils off when the engine gets hot.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastEditorUserId="3259" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T21:43:17.543" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:43:17.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17373" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:30:23.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting rid of those deposits is tedious but not difficult:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the coolant and flush with tap water (dispose of the coolant safely!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the cooling system with about two cups of liquid dishwasher detergent dissolved in hot water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine and run it until it warms up to regular operating temperature. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the detergent solution and flush with tap water again until it runs clean.  (The idea here is to remove all oils from the system.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the cooling system with two pounds of citric acid powder (available from industrial chemical supply houses, or from Mercedes-Benz dealers at a considerable premium) dissolved in hot &lt;em&gt;distilled&lt;/em&gt; water (since your tap water is hard).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, start the engine and run it until it warms up to regular operating temperature, or at least fifteen minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flush with distilled water.  At this point you should see all sorts of rust, mineral deposits, and miscellaneous crud loosened by the citric acid come out of the drain hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refill the system with the appropriate mix of coolant and distilled water.  Use a modern &quot;long-life&quot; orange coolant if you have an aluminum cylinder head, block, or both--green coolant promotes corrosion in aluminum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:30:23.833" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:36:02.830" Score="5" ViewCount="24187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the break-in periods needed for scooters/motorcycles. I know everyone says it, but I haven't found any explanation with some scientific backing to not making it an urban legend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Point 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Even more so, when we see that the 2 methods for break-in seem to be &quot;Run it slow&quot; or &quot;Run it like you stole it&quot; which are complete opposites and both apparently work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Point 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I don't see how the wearing of the parts will be any different if you have RPM's at 7,500 or 10,000 (apart for maybe overheating due to the friction). It's like the difference of cutting wood with a saw or an electric saw. The electric one goes faster but the result is the same. You want a lot of friction to cut through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any one actually back up the need of a break-in period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10701" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T00:41:16.303" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T00:59:37.023" Title="Scooter break-in period - Actual scientific backing or urban legend?" Tags="|motorcycle|scooter|motors|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17389" CreationDate="2015-06-02T22:28:47.187" Score="3" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was browsing Amazon in search for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NPDL76&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;combustion leak detector&lt;/a&gt; (AKA &quot;block tester&quot;) and I stumbled upon a cylinder leakage tester kit, which is supposed to do similar things?  But I am not quite sure how it works?  I see it comes with valve nozzles but that is it.  How do you connect it and to which parts of the engine in order to do the testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T23:55:41.683" Title="How does cylinder leakage tester kit work?" Tags="|engine|tools|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17386" CreationDate="2015-06-02T23:30:47.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of recreating the wheel, here are some pretty good reasons why you need to do a break-in on &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; engine, be it a motorcycle or a car. I found it on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motorcycle-Engine-Break-in-the-Right-Way!.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;. I don't necessarily agree with everything the person says on the page, so I'll leave the rest of the reading up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The What:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every new engine has internal components that must be &amp;quot;worn-in&amp;quot;. This &amp;quot;wearing-in&amp;quot; of components is what's known as &amp;quot;break-in&amp;quot;. The main components that need to be broken-in/worn-in are the valves, the cylinder bore, and the piston rings. These components must be worn-in so that they mate properly with the surfaces they will interact with over the life of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; At this point on the page the author states about valves not sealing correctly if not broke-in right. I will differ with him somewhat here as the way you get the valves to seal is to properly lap them prior to putting the head back on the engine. If lapping isn't done correctly, the valve will never seal and you'll lose all kinds of cylinder pressure while running the engine ... this is so for a car engine, I'm assuming it is exactly the same for a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cylinder Bore and Piston Rings -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder bore of a new engine is somewhat rough, and the piston rings are not properly mated to the cylinder bore. Some of the cylinder bore roughness must be worn down and smoothed out in order to create just the right amount of seal between the bore and the piston rings. Also the rings must be worn in correctly to mate with the cylinder bores. This process must happen properly in order to create the right kind of seal that will keep the combustion gases separated from the engine oil, and vice versa. Furthermore, if this wearing-in process does not happen correctly, the cylinder bore walls can glaze over, which will cause a lack of lubrication between the cylinder bore and piston rings, leading to overheating, a loss of performance, premature wear, and a loss of reliability. If this glazing does occur, the only way this problem can be corrected is for the engine to be torn down, the cylinder bores re-honed, and new piston rings installed, after which they must of course be broken in correctly, or it must be done all over again until it is. So you see how crucial proper break-in of these components actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite simply, these engine components must be properly &amp;quot;worn-in&amp;quot; to ensure good performance, reliability, and longevity; it's really just that simple. If these parts are not worn-in correctly there will be a loss of performance in every way. There will be a loss of power, poor fuel efficiency, increased oil consumption (burning oil), among other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to point out, in flat tappet engines, you need to vary the engine speed at 1500-2000 rpm for about 20 or you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; flatten cam lobes out. You do this so the cam lobes and the base of the lifters will get a sympathetic wear pattern to them. If you let your engine idle upon first startup, you will wear through the hard metal surface of the cam lobe and lifter face and you will wipe out your cam. Roller cam engines do not have this same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a huge amount of controversy over the &lt;em&gt;how do you break in an engine&lt;/em&gt; out there. There are two trains of thought on this: 1) break it in as the manufacturer recommends so as to maintain warranty; 2) run it like you stole it. I don't completely agree with the &lt;em&gt;stole it&lt;/em&gt; method, but believe the better way to do it is hard rather than soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the best method I've seen is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Not only has the guy documented exactly what he does, but exactly why he does it (with pictures to show you the difference). Basically, he is saying do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from &#xA;40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm&#xA;Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes&#xA;&#xA;Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from &#xA;40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm &#xA;Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes&#xA;&#xA;Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from &#xA;30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm&#xA;Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice he's talking about doing the runs on a dyno. You can do this on the street as well, but it works better in a controlled environment like a dyno, or a race track, or wide open country roads. A couple of the key things you want to remember is not to lug the engine and let the engine decelerate on its own (creating a large amount of vacuum in the cylinder). If done on the street, you can vary what gear your running in to complete the above sequence. On the dyno, you need to be running it in a higher gear because you don't have the load that you do on the engine from wind forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the key things which is stated on the page is that with the &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; break-in, it can be worth 2-10% more power out of the engine. It will also help for the longevity of the engine. Yes, the engine will run, but it won't run as good as it could have, won't last as long as it could have, and you'll usually end up burning oil and having blow-by a lot earlier than would otherwise be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to use this method for break-in, please read the page in its entirety. There is a lot of good information on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T23:37:32.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2015-06-02T23:55:41.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cylinder leak-down tester is a completely different animal than a combustion leak detection kit and has a completely different job. While the combustion leak detector checks for carbon-dioxide (CO₂) in the radiator. The cylinder leak-down tester kit hooks up to to your cylinder through the spark plug hole on one end and to your compressor on the other. You pressurize the cylinder and leave it for a period of time mainly to check the seal on the valves. Something like this would be used after an interference motor has lost a timing belt to see if any of the valves are bent (it has other uses as well). You wouldn't normally use it to check for a blown head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reading on the how to use it, check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0406-cylinder-leakdown-tester/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvG22YMOzUI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Together they give a pretty good picture on how to use the gadget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T23:55:41.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17382" CreationDate="2015-06-03T00:06:03.673" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @dodgethesteamroller stated, there is nothing wrong with reusing the engine oil. There are two caveats and one concern I'd like to mention with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, use a clean container to store the oil in while you are doing your engine work. Your normal engine drain pan will probably not give you the cleanliness you are looking for. You &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT&lt;/strong&gt; want to have the dirt and crud which collects in the pan to be put into your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, it's probably a good idea to change out the oil filter when you are doing this. It doesn't hurt anything and should only cost you a few dollars to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concern: Before you decide you are going to reuse your nearly new engine oil, you need to realize the reasons for doing the work on the engine in the first place. If you are replacing worn bearings, you don't want to reuse your engine oil no matter how new it is, because it will more than likely have metal fragments from the old bearings in it ... no sense in putting metal particles back into your engine and having all those wear items thrown into the mix. It just does not make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't blame you for wanting to save a buck and/or the environment, but don't ruin your new engine work in the process by not utilizing some common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T18:42:42.850" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T18:42:42.850" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T00:21:37.737" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm tripping some codes for the check engine light and took my car in to get repaired. They did a smoke test and are fairly certain that I need to replace a valve on the canister (there are others that aren't on the canister). The said that the dealer told them I needed to replace the whole canister because it is attached to the valve. Based on some of the documents I had the repair shop send me, I saw this part number 9091012264. That part looks like it can be ordered separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a diagram where I can see the parts in detail? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that the valve on the canister?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10703" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:50:41.703" Title="Can the evap canister valve be ordered and replaced separately for a 2001 Toyota Camry" Tags="|toyota|camry|evap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T02:08:58.873" Score="4" ViewCount="8968" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is Diesel Engine called as Quality Controlled and Petrol called as Quantity Control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Diesel Engine the right amount of Diesel for the right amount of Compressed air is more important, Injecting more fuel alone will not increase the torque.  Right Combination of Air - Diesel, Fuel Spread, Timing plays important role. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of Gasoline/Petrol Engine the air-fuel is mixed external to the cylinder at a more or less a constant ratio.  Torque could be increased by sucking more air-fuel mixture into the cylinder during Induction stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please correct me if I am wrong and add as much more clarity as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T02:21:44.507" Title="Why is Diesel Engine called as Quality Controlled and Petrol called as Quantity Control" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17467" CreationDate="2015-06-03T05:27:12.010" Score="15" ViewCount="13437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that Ducatis , Honda and Triumph have bikes with a Single Sided SwingArm Much like most of the scooters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any advantages of following this design , if so why are not all manufacturers using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are all the scooters using a SSSA ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen any scooter without a SSSA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T22:29:48.093" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T21:02:32.940" Title="What are the Advantages of a Single Side SwingArm on Motorcycles?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|scooter|swingarm|ducati|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17025" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:08:00.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the issue, there was some problems with electronics of throttle control, it costs me about 80 euros (100$) to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10524" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:08:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17379" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:08:46.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Your Wheels are aligned and brakes are good then there are a few things you need to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check needle bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if power steering is normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the lug nuts on the wheels are proper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your camber alignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled and it seems this vibration is a frequnt problem on the F150. &#xA;Usually it is the U-Joints which give way causing the vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check this by jacking up your front end, turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and spin your tire by hand (spin and let go). If it spins real nice then the ujoint isn't the issue. If the ujoint is bad your tire won't spin good or might even stop and go the other way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you have any fine red dust around the ujoint bearing caps that is a sign the grease inside the ujoint is all dried up and needs replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:08:46.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17378" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:28:18.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of Quick methods to check the Head Gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant leaking externally from bellow the exhaust manifold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White smoke from the exhaust pipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overheating engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbles in the radiator or coolant overflow tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White milky oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significant loss of coolant with no visible leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are usually important points to notice while buying a Used Car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:28:18.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:42:56.230" Score="6" ViewCount="12673" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This question is not wrt. fully mechanical fly wheel based systems seen in a few cars back in the 60's.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This question is with respect to a few brands (among which are many no-name manufacturers) which manufacture a particularly peculiar type of &lt;em&gt;add on &lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt; system for bikes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here are two for reference - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saferideabs.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SAFERIDE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorino.ca/ABS_Braking_system.php#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOTORINO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial impressions of the websites seem like a complete scam with utter lack of information on the system and content copied from regular closed loop ABS systems (particularly in the case of SAFERIDE).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Upon further investigation I was appalled to find the popularity of this system (also manufactured by a few other no-name brands as mentioned before).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So here's how they claim it works -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FOmCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SAFERIDE ABS&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;ABS system&lt;/em&gt;, the bronze unit seen above, is installed between the brake line and the calipers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another picture -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gt6H4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SAFERIDE OPEN&quot;&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the details on how it works are a bit obscure, but here's an excerpt from MOTORINO which makes a similar system -  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The all-mechanical ABS on MOTORINO™s uses sophisticated valves on each&#xA;  brake caliper to damp the hydraulic pressure spikes that occur as a&#xA;  wheel approaches lockup, slightly relieving the pressure and allowing&#xA;  the wheel to continue to rotate, which helps maintain steer¬ing and&#xA;  maximum braking traction. The rider should always bear in mind&#xA;  however, that, unlike the computer-controlled ABS used in cars, you&#xA;  can still lock the wheels by applying excessive brake input. The ABS&#xA;  on your MOTORINO™ can help you maintain control in marginal situations&#xA;  but does not do all the thinking for you. The front and the rear ABS&#xA;  valves are different and tuned given fact that approximately 60%-100%&#xA;  of the braking power of a two-wheeled vehicle is provided by the front&#xA;  wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to paraphrase the above, I believe they're claiming that the membrane absorbs any sudden spikes in the brake pressure (due to abrupt application of brake pressure?) which may initiate a premature wheel lock.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now it is obvious that this system in no way monitors the wheel speed and hence there's no mechanical control system of any kind at play here.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe all this system does is introduces a certain amount of &lt;em&gt;sponginess&lt;/em&gt; in the system, kind of like having a certain amount of air in the brake lines (albeit a calculated amount (?) intentionally introduced).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any substance to these scientific sounding claims?   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any supporting evidence proving/debunking the above?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any benefit at all or are these potentially dangerous?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I understand how ABS systems work, in principle at least. I also understand that this is not a replacement for  modern day closed loop feedback based ABS systems which take multiple parameters into account including wheel speed trends apart from just comparing wheel-speeds to each other.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to ascertain if this &lt;strong&gt;BRAKING-AID&lt;/strong&gt; is of any good at all even if it doesn't do what is advertised. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T12:52:43.267" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T01:50:01.140" Title="Mechanical ABS system - Scam or Legit?" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12031" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:51:37.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is a slightly delayed answer, but the problem turned out to be the bearing.  Immediately after having it replaced, the noise was SUBSTANTIALLY reduced, and I could actually hear the other rear bearing also starting to fail (albeit very faintly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the low noise, I'm able to hear some slight tire noise as well as described above, but pitch and volume is nowhere near that of the failing bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb here appears to be, if the noise is overpowering (drowns conversation, high pitch at speed), it's probably a bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another poster pointed out, the ABS sensors do present a problem - I ended up having Honda do the whole thing for about A$470 (and they even cleaned my car ;-) ).  Compared to some other issues I've had, this is actually a reasonable price to pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all the advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6821" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T06:51:37.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17393" CreationDate="2015-06-03T07:27:50.777" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While various items such as maintenance and ease of tire removal are cited for the SSSA (Single Sided Swing Arm) design, initial testing and development of all these designs were started on the racetrack.  Honda initially released their version of the SSSA with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_NSR250&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NSR250R&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;image of an NSR250R&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcBGG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcBGG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All&lt;/strong&gt; of the early SSSA's were developed for racing to reduce un-sprung weight.  From there, street sport bikes were the early adopters, porting the race technology to the consumer.  This was followed by SSSA's on scooters and other non-sporting motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is logic regarding reduced maintenance and ease of maintenance regarding SSSA's their initial adoption was for reduced weight and racing applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Un-sprung Weight&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all vehicles, un-sprung weight is the holy grail of handling.  Un-sprung weight reductions result in a wheel getting back to the surface area it's adhering to in less time.  The result is frequently less over-steer in cars and in motorcycles, less low sides due to interruptions in friction adhesion to the road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Un-sprung weight or un-sprung mass is the weight that is not carried on the spring in your suspension.  If it's below your spring it falls under this category.  For bikes; the rims, tires, rotors, brakes, lower fork legs and swingarm all fall under the category of un-sprung mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lighter this mass, the more responsive it can be to outside forces, responding as needed by absorbing energy, responding to undulations in the surface by not bouncing off the undulation and getting back to the surface of the road with it's full weight as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;To summarize the advantages:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less weight creates less momentum when responding to a bump or undulation in the road surface.  More momentum in response to an undulation could result in the tire getting bounced off the surface of road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less weight allows for the spring to push the unsprung weight back to the road surface quicker allowing for the contact patch to get back to work with friction for adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Why don't all manufacturers do it?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is subjective, I believe it comes down to cost.  If it were cheaper and there were performance advantages then I would imagine that everyone would engage in this design as a framework moving forward.  It would seem there is a higher cost as only the higher end motorcycles like Triumph and Ducati are implementing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side is that due to lightweight materials and construction other manufacturers have found a weight/rigidity balance in there designs that allows them to be both competitive in the showroom as well as the racetrack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scooters&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is subjective and opinion based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scooter swingarms are inclusive of additional properties other than rigidity for the rear wheel.  Other properties of a standard scooter swingarms may include the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centrifugal clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive Belt tensioner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaft drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondary shaft sprocket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example diagram of Honda Ruckus that does not include the rear brake mechanisms within the unit.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Si47O.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the rigidity of the unit it only makes sense to make it all inclusive in a single sided swingarm.  The unit provides multiple options for the various components as well as ease of maintenance for mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional benefits include ease of rear tire change for an end user that may not have the technical ability to line up a rear wheel properly with a traditional swingarm making for less service related mishaps and longevity of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Errata&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although car related, this kid has some excellent videos, a little long winded but very good information regarding suspension and the importance of a low unsprung mass in any vehicle.  Have a look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOiOO7qloXQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many manufacturers use a vacuum casting method to create thin walled high strength components.  This a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMOCzg4bJWU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good video&lt;/a&gt; that illustrates the benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T21:02:32.940" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T07:51:40.487" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Vector trim Sports Saloon version. With that trim basically you get a Radio/CD audio system with ability to play mp3 CD's. However it's time to move on for some better solutions with USB and Bluetooth supports, as burning all those CDs is messy stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is to have ablity to control the music from my steering wheel and play music from USB drive/ Android Phone / iPod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are USB emulators out there on the market, but had no luck in finding one for my particullar model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody something available on the market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T07:51:40.487" Title="SAAB 93 Car Audio system upgrade" Tags="|audio|saab|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-04T10:55:03.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17392" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:10:38.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per my understanding, diesel engines are quantity controlled and gasoline engines are quality controlled. The reason being in gasoline engine for a proper combustion, the mixture formation is very important. There should be homogeneous mixture of air and fuel for a complete combustion to happen. therefore the &lt;strong&gt;quality&lt;/strong&gt; of mixture is very important. That is why in a modern electronically controlled system, both air and fuel are controlled (electronic throttle control and fuel injection) to produce a homogeneous mixture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas in a diesel engine, the air is un-throttled and the mixture is not homogeneous. There is no requirement of metering of fuel based on the air that enters the cylinder in a diesel engine. The power output in a diesel is directly dependent on the &lt;strong&gt;quantity&lt;/strong&gt; of fuel injected into the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T02:21:44.507" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T02:21:44.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17404" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:20:15.030" Score="1" ViewCount="4954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Peugeot 307 , 2003 model . 97000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local mechanic fixed its horn two times but after few weeks again it stopped working .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my MOT is due and was wondering what would be the best way to fix this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go to Peugeot dealer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T14:28:23.343" Title="Peugeot 307 horn not working" Tags="|peugeot|horn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:28:11.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9D7RI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess on how the system works is explained in the picture. in normal condition, the flow of the brake fluid is shown using the pink arrows. during the locking condition, the spike in hydraulic pressure pushes the spool valve against the spring force(green arrow) opening the chamber that stores some of the brake fluid, thus relieving the pressure at the wheel brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T09:28:11.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17402" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:40:53.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can check on your own, then check the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuse(s) for horn (check if they are not blown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horn relay (check if you can hear the relay getting actuated when you press the horn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If horn relay is working fine, then you need to check the wiring from the relay to horn and if that is ok, check the horns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If relay is not getting actuated, then there should be some issues with the horn switch, clock spring contact in the steering wheel or the wiring from the steering wheel to the relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T14:28:23.343" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T14:28:23.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17378" CreationDate="2015-06-03T10:54:16.947" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Anarach's answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 things around a head gasket - combustion chambers (cylinders), oilways, coolant-ways and the outside air. They can fail between any two (or more) of these, and each has different symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oil-coolant failures will result in one or both being contaminated - look for a mayonnaise-like substance in the oil (though small amounts of this can also form from condensation, particularly if the engine has been sitting for a while), or oil in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oil-air or coolant-air failures should be obvious, with deposits of either on the outside of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oil-cylinder or coolant-cylinder failures are probably most common. They will result in a smoky exhaust (as the contaminant is burnt), and pressurisation of the oil or coolant systems (leading to loss of coolant and the overheating that is commonly the first obvious symptom). They can also be detected by a compression test, which will check the amount of compression in each cylinder - a failed one will be much lower as the air will be escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cylinder-air failures are rare (though you can also get cylinder to cylinder failures, particularly in over-bored engines). Again, a compression test is a good indicator...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T10:54:16.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2015-06-03T10:59:00.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any substance to these scientific sounding claims?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes there is and there is not, these kits simply reduce the total&#xA;pressure applied onto the brakes by the user and are exactly not&#xA;&quot;ABS&quot; or Anti-Lock Brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any supporting evidence proving/debunking the above?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot Give hard evidence but these rudimentary systems were sometimes recommended by mechanics for beginners who drove Bajaj Pulsar bikes which were notorious for locking their front discs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any benefit at all or are these potentially dangerous?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These system are dangerous to life of rider and people around him. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DO NOT INSTALL THEM ON YOUR BIKES or your Friend's, People don't realise the seriousness of this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some website of the manufacturer you can see that they have mentioned that these do not act as replacements to the Electronic computer controlled ABS systems and that these ones can cause wheel to lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is plainly a pressure valve that's all !!! it can in no way detect a wheel lock and act accordingly.&#xA;These are clearly selling tactics and are not good.Most of the people who have fitted this contraception claim this to be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Practically, Some people have reported that this system works,It sort of does work if you are new to bikes with a Disc brake since on drum brakes you need to apply a lot of pressure to stop suddenly migrating to a disc will obviously make you lock them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I purchased my first bike, the salesman was giving tutorial on how to use a disc brake since most bikes had a drum. So this might be useful for new riders who stomp on the brakes hard and lock wheels which BTW used to happened a lot when the first Bajaj Pulsars Came out in 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That Said, they are pretty much gimmick now a days as people are aware of disc brake technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T13:45:00.423" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:45:00.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17392" CreationDate="2015-06-03T11:41:55.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are mostly correct in your assumptions. However, you write: &quot;In Diesel Engine the right amount of Diesel for the right amount of Compressed air is more important, Injecting more fuel alone will not increase the torque.&quot; This is not correct, perhaps you meant for a petrol engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the way a petrol engine works is by having a throttle in the air intake. Its form can vary, but the function is to limit the amount of air that enters the engine. The throttle is controlled with your accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOA11.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;open throttle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is then to get the exact amount of fuel mixed into the air. This is the job of the injection system or the carburetor. fuel/air-mixture then enters the cylinder when the inlet valve opens and when compressed by the piston, the spark plug ignites the mixture and a downward force is achieved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a Diesel engine, there are no throttle. You don't control the amount of air entering the engine. Instead, you limit the amount of fuel that is injected. There are no spark plugs either, since low octane value of diesel fuel allows it to spontaneously combust in the high pressure of the cylinder. This means the timing of the combustion cannot be controlled by the spark either, and that's why a diesel injects the fuel directly into the cylinder (or pre chamber) exactly when the combustion should start. As you say, the manner of injection play a big role in fuel efficiency and performance. High pressure and several injections in a single combustion is utilized to maximize performance. There are different kinds of diesel engines, but most modern engines are direct injected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/naBNZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;direct injection etc.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more fuel into a diesel gives you better performance up until something breaks or there isn't enough air to combust all fuel, which shows by releasing black smoke in your exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why Diesels are generally better off with turbos than petrol engines. Adding more fuel in a turbo diesel engine gives you more exhausts, which in turn gives a higher turbo pressure, and more air into the engine. More air into the engine gives you the possibility of adding even more fuel, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually haven't heard of diesels being called &quot;Quality controlled&quot;, perhaps someone else have an idea? &quot;Quantity controlled&quot; for a petrol engine is easier to guess, the ratio between air and fuel should always be constant. For proper mixture in a petrol engine, you would need about 14-15kg of air for 1kg fuel. In high performance applications you would let it be a bit richer both for more power and better cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T11:52:04.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T11:52:04.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:31:25.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What this thing basically does is prevent you from applying too much brake pressure. Sure, it's a gimmick, but it does seem plausible and the little I know about hydraulics suggests it should work. It seems to work a lot like a wastegate (but with fluid, not air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's not an active ABS system that will modulate the brake pressure to keep you right on the edge of traction. This thing will make your brakes squishy at (hopefully) the right moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you'd have to do lots of fine-tuning to get it just right. And it certainly won't perform nearly as well as real ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside: this thing has better reasoning behind it that those &quot;vortex generators&quot; that supposedly improve your car's performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:31:25.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17391" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:48:24.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can. You can find it as either &lt;strong&gt;DORMAN Part # 911603&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stCxS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or as &lt;strong&gt;AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 2M1257&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X7nLi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:48:24.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17364" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:49:40.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced this and the first thing to check is the battery terminals for tightness. Open your hood, locate the battery and try to move the battery terminals. They should be tight and not move. Any movement is a sign of looseness which permits corrosion between the contacting surfaces. Get a wrench and tighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector loosens up to the point where it may or may not contact the terminal properly and the engine dies. You stop to restart and of course the terminal has reseated and the car starts just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experienced this with those awful side terminals that GM/Chevy seemed to love in the 90's (Don't know if they are still using them). Happened to me a few times on both a 95 Tahoe and a 2002 Express van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no, dont think your alternator can keep the car running. The battery supplies the alternator's armaturer with power for excitation. Without the battery, the alternator can not easily regulate itself which can cause damage. So either the alternator can't put out enough current or they shut down. And then your car dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:49:40.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="50869" CreationDate="2015-06-03T14:14:02.803" Score="2" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. About a year ago, I noticed it had starting problems if not recently driven in the last few days, like when I'd come back from a vacation or if I didn't drive it during a 3-day weekend. Normally it starts almost instantly; in this case the starter would take a second or two before the engine would catch, initially starting with what seemed like a backfire. My mechanic couldn't figure out anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem has continued and the &quot;recently&quot; time period has shrunk, now it is about 12 hours or so. I get home at night around 6pm and leave for work around 7:30am, and each time in the morning it has this problem. When I go home it doesn't have the problem. (It's not a temperature issue as far as I can tell; we live in a warm climate and I've had the same problem often when starting during the weekend at midday.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it might be + what I should ask my mechanic to look at? I wonder if it is a leak of some sort into the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just to clear up the obvious question, the starter motor works every time, it just takes a while for the engine to engage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cranking isn't slow (so the battery doesn't seem like the problem)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get a slight hydrocarbon smell after this &quot;bad startup&quot; occurs (fuel or oil maybe?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(possibly unrelated issue) When I come to a stop and have my foot on the brake, e.g. at a red light, the engine is supposed to automatically stop and then restart when I take my foot off the brake. It no longer does this, instead it remains idling in the 500-1000RPM range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noted conditions when starting after a 36-hour downtime period: engine sputtered for about 1.5 seconds, then started. During this time starter did not slow down appreciably, but had to work very hard and pulled down the starting battery just enough to trip the low-battery light (which went off a few minutes later). (The 12V battery is somewhere between 18-24 months old + seems fine otherwise.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10714" LastEditorUserId="10714" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T19:09:27.963" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T11:03:46.283" Title="2006 Honda Civic Hybrid -- starting problems if not recently (12hours!) driven" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18110" CreationDate="2015-06-03T15:09:22.817" Score="2" ViewCount="2220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a rather interesting problem that I can't figure out with my 1996 3.8L v6 with 137k on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, I will experience a problem when I slow down or stop the car just gives out and shuts off. I can kind of tell that this is going to happen ahead of time because when I step on the gas I will have a bit more power than usual (I'd be going at like 30-35 mph at this point, tap the gas and the car will power forward) then when I go to slow down/stop the RPMs will drop below 1k and give out. This will happen about once a day after the car gets warmed up, it will start again immediately without any trouble or hesitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car has an aftermarket cold air intake, throttle body, plug wires and distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently put in a new MAF, new TPS, new IAC, and a new PCV Valve. I did this when I installed the cold air intake and throttle body to clear a too lean code as well as idle issues I was having, it did the trick on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next thought was to try the fuel filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't really find many other threads that contain an issue like this one, seems like a one off to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Additional Information: I can smell a strong gas/exhaust smell coming into the cabin right before the car is about to stall when I let off the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10716" LastEditorUserId="10716" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T17:47:29.617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:50:04.397" Title="1996 Ford Mustang 3.8L V6 - Intermittent Stalling on Slow Down/Stop" Tags="|ford|stall|mustang|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17377" CreationDate="2015-06-03T15:47:50.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the diagrams, it looks like each lock has a motor and a microswitch to tell if it's locked or unlocked - presumably so you can't try and lock it when it's already locked or vice versa, or simply to reverse the polarity. The wire going directly to the motor (red and black) will be common to both. This wire will be positive for one action and negative for the other - though this seems a little odd to me, I'd have expected a solenoid with two separate coils. The other two wires will be separate for each action, one being positive and one negative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to unclip the connector in the door and test the appropriate pins using the multimeter, rather than splicing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T15:47:50.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17378" CreationDate="2015-06-03T18:40:57.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On top of the other 2 answers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test a head gasket blown between the cylinder and another port, do a leak down test.  This pumps air into the cylinder and measures how much is lost.  You can listen and look for the source of where the air is exiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the coolant system, do a coolant system pressure test.  This is similar to the leak down test.  Pressurize the coolant system, and see how much pressure you loose.  If you loose pressure, it means coolant is leaking out somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase both of these test kits at Harbor Freight for about $50 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always give your engine a good cleaning before hand so it is easy to spot the source of leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T18:40:57.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31883" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:08:01.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1389" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend, I changed one spark plug on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. It was running fine but it had been about 30,000 miles and I am about to sell it and wanted to have everything running good for whoever buys it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only had time to change one spark plug - it took forever to find my Gap tool and socket. Unfortunately, my truck now runs like crap. I'm pretty sure that it's missing now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken out the plug, cleaned some grease of the tip the connects to the plug wire and put it back but it still runs the same. I ran it in the dark and there are no shorts in the plug wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I troubleshoot the issue? What else could I have messed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10719" LastEditorUserId="10719" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T20:39:45.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T17:55:49.890" Title="Changed Spark Plug Missing (not firing)" Tags="|troubleshooting|sparkplugs|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17415" CreationDate="2015-06-03T21:39:43.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark Plug Wire isn't fully connected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gap on plug is not actually correct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plug wire got damaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check the connection. Sometimes spark plug wires can be hard to get in all the way and they don't always make a snapping sound when they go in properly. If that doesn't help, check the gap on the plug. What kind of gap meter are you using? Make sure you're using it correctly. If none of that works, I'm betting you damaged the wire from pulling on it. Also, make sure you didn't accidentally pull other wires. You can measure the resistance on the wire from end to end with a volt meter. The rule of thumb is 1000 ohms/inch of wire length and 30,000 ohms max. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T21:39:43.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8742" CreationDate="2015-06-03T21:47:32.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue today while driving the engine light came on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery terminals were corroded. So I used the baking soda to clean it off. Removed the -ve terminal for a minute or so then connected it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine light has turned off now :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery issues do light the engine light on due to low voltage caused by corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10722" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T21:47:32.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17420" CreationDate="2015-06-04T01:51:24.103" Score="6" ViewCount="9997" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please explain the importance of Engine Compression Ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Text books I could find the following importances&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Cold starting Characteristics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque Generated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pollution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not able to understand the relationship between these characteristics and the compression ratio.  Could you please give me more example/explanation on how these are related&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10704" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T07:44:53.183" Title="Importance of engine compression ratio" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17419" CreationDate="2015-06-04T07:39:46.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is Compression Ratio:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An engine's compression ratio is the ratio of the volume of gas in the cylinder when the piston is at the top of its stroke (top dead centre, or TDC) to the volume of gas when the piston's at the bottom of its stroke (bottom dead centre or BDC). In other words, it's the ratio of compressed to uncompressed gas, or how tightly the incoming fuel/air mix is squeezed into the combustion chamber before it's ignited. The more it's squeezed, the more efficiently it burns and the more power is made.&#xA;Note:If you want to know how the figures arrive check out this link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.visordown.com/workshop/understanding-compression-ratios/15453.html&quot;&gt;How to calculate compression Ratio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does it effect fuel economy:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher the ratio, the more compressed the air in the cylinder is. When the air is compressed, you get a more powerful explosion from the air-fuel mixture, and more of the fuel gets used. Think about it this way: If you had to be near an explosion, you'd probably choose to be near one somewhere outside, because the force of the explosion would dissipate, and it wouldn't seem as powerful. In a small room, however, the force would be contained, making it feel much more powerful. It's the same thing with compression ratios. By keeping the explosion in a smaller space, more of its power can be harnessed. By increasing the compression ration from 8:1 to 9:1, for example, you can improve fuel economy by about 5 to 6 percent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does it affect Pollution or emmision:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High compression ratios provide better burning of fuel and this reduce the waste gase produced by the engine , anythign higher than 16:1 will be probelm and create something called a knock. Lower compression ratios allow you to burn bad quality fuel or lower octane fuel thus increasing waste gases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does it effect engine cold starting characteristics:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engines with high compression ratios produce excessive heat compared to lower compressed vehicles thus doing a cold start should not be a problem for these type of vehicles , in most motorcycles(with high compression ratio) not touching the throttle while doing a cold start is very effective. As for a lower compressed engine the case is the same for any normal engine you need it to heat up for a better start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does it affect performance:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a no brainer , higher compression ratios will provide much more power than lower ratios that is why F1 cars have extremely high compression ratios. This also allows engine to be more efficient at higher rpms. Lower compression ratios give lower output but are more easy to build,maintain and gernerally have better life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why would I go for higher compression:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much better performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher &quot;relative&quot; fuel economy .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher usable power throughout the rpms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why would i go for lower compression:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much much cheaper to build,run and repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lasts much longer than counterpart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be air cooled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less Noise,vibration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better real world fuel economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Runs on crappy fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does not Generate as much heat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last point is very crucial for motorcycles since the engine is very close to the legs of the user , a naked bike with high compression ratio will either be impossible to drive in the city or will need Proper liquid cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T07:44:53.183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T07:44:53.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5764" CreationDate="2015-06-04T08:33:10.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its been around for ages. Its called window tint. You can either do it yourself or go to a tint shop to have it installed. It takes a few hours to install if you do it yourself. Faster at a tint shop. It'll also require 2 days to cure, which means you can't roll down your window for 2 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it yourself, the companies Mike Saull linked to are good. Make sure you check with your local state or municipal to see what tint are legal (cops can use illegal tint as a probable cause to pull you over). &lt;a href=&quot;http://windowtintlaws.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://windowtintlaws.org&lt;/a&gt; is a good resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done that, just install the thing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBC37rbyYRs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBC37rbyYRs&lt;/a&gt; is a good guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of having tinted windows are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;privacy&#xA;cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interior &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV protection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shatter protection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:33:10.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17518" CreationDate="2015-06-04T08:55:15.500" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read anecdotal accounts here and there that cleaning various parts of older engines can cause various parts to fail, or be pushed over the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, people say that as the engine ages and wears down, the built up &amp;quot;crud&amp;quot; of various sorts kind of fills in the wear gaps and keeps things functioning, but that cleaning can both release so much gunk that it clogs things up, and loosens worn parts of making things fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard this about just about everything that can be cleaned without taking the engine apart, the air intake, the pistons and valves, the crank case and the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I've got an older vehicle ( 97 Mazda 323 ) which I've visually verified is extremely dirty in just about every possible way.  There is think oily sludge in the intake manifold, think carbon buildup in the crank case under the valve cover, and heavy rust in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that if I start cleaning things out things might start breaking as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I need to worry about, and if so are there any precautions I should take, or is this really just an urban legend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2214543-post5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an example&lt;/a&gt; of one anecdote I've read regarding flushing the cooling system for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search under my name...Ive done the citrus flush twice and both times other components have been taken out, like the radiator, water pump etc. Im not saying dont do it, just be ready - anything that is on the edge of failure will be pushed over. Have your credit card warmed up and parts supplier ready forewarned :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, if your cooling system is functioning properly, I would not do the citrus flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T21:18:22.320" Title="Does Crud Hold Old Engines Together?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17429" CreationDate="2015-06-04T09:53:55.820" Score="3" ViewCount="2085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently when I visited a car showroom the salesman pitched the car by saying it has VVT technology which is superior compared to other cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched and found out that it alters the valve timings on the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of VVT? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it done (i.e. mechanically or electronically)? A diagram would be useful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a &quot;gimmick&quot; or is it worth buying a car with VVT technology?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it different from a i-VTEC? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T21:59:30.240" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:40:38.077" Title="What is Variable Valve Timing technology?" Tags="|engine|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:26:51.347" Score="6" ViewCount="15561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does my car battery emit Hydrogen Sulfide gas when charging, or just Hydrogen gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the battery around July 2014 (brand new), and because I did not drive my car for a period of one and a half months, it went completely flat. I tried charging it with my 3 stage charger, which did not seem to work - there was a constant rapid flicker of the charge light, I had the battery out of the car on a rubber mat, and charged for minimum 12 hours with no result. I then did the intelligent thing and connected my battery to my dad's old fixed-volt charger, which did the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because I do not use my car regularly, the charge in the battery has dropped low again. When looking at the battery now, it has dry residues around the terminals and on top of the case. Just wondering if the battery fluid might have been boiled by my dad's fixed-volt charger, and whether it's safe to use my 3 stage charger on the battery. My concern is that the battery might release Hydrogen Sulfide. I know batteries release Hydrogen gas as a normal part of the charging process, but do they release Hydrogen Sulfide gas, ever? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the structure of the battery casing is completely sound with no signs of obvious damage from charging (unless you count the dry residue around the terminals), and I have always kept the cells topped with distiller water. And yes, I charge my car batteries in a well ventilated area so Hydrogen gas build-up is not an issue. It's he corrosive Hydrogen Sulfide gas that concerns me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10726" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T08:41:15.197" Title="Gases from car batteries" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:22:06.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Diesel engine noise is largely a result of the pressure needed to inject fuel into the cylinder, this pressure also resulting in atomisation of the fuel.They squeeze the air/fuel together and it ignites.  That create the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T03:44:44.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:44:44.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17424" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:23:37.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;i-VTEC changes HOW MUCH the intake and exhaust valves can open. VVT changes WHEN the intake and exhaust ports open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lot of information to put in an answer. The short version is that by electronically changing exactly &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; the intake and exhaust valves open and close, you can increase the volumetric efficiency of the engine across a large RPM range. You can also do fancy things like overlapping the exhaust and intake valves so that the exhaust helps &quot;suck&quot; more air and fuel into the combustion chamber, thereby making more power than would normally be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars without VVT will have a much narrower power curve because they can only work optimally within a set portion of the RPM range, but VVT allows you to enlarge that range quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for I-VTEC, it is basically a way to modify the camshaft profile so that it lifts the valves higher than normal, allowing more air into and out of the engine per stroke. You basically have an economy-focused cam profile when driving slow, and a high-lift performance profile when going fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also call VVT &quot;dynamic cam timing&quot; and VTEC &quot;dynamic cam profiling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T11:23:37.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17424" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:24:54.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Variable valve timing permits an increase in the torque in the lower engine speed ranges and increased engine power in the higher engine speed range. Basically, the system alters the relative position of the inlet camshaft with respect to the exhaust camshaft corresponding to the engine operating conditions. The idea is to control how long &quot;valve overlap&quot; occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the inputs from the various sensors that are part of engine management, the engine control unit actuates a solenoid valve, which opens a hydraulic path that the engine oil flows through.  The oil pressure is applied to the advance or the retard side of a camshaft actuator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/60105618373/Variable_Valve_Timing_Solenoid_Toyota_Lexus_2011.jpg_220x220.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camshaft solenoid picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this control happens only in intake side, it is called 'variable valve timing'. if this happens for both intake and exhaust side, then it is called 'continuous variable valve timing'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of VVT is the possibility of having an internal EGR, better power output and fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:40:38.077" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:40:38.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17455" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:39:04.523" Score="1" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried looking up everywhere, and this is unique to this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone identify the below component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a pipe connecting the engine with starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrbWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of the engine , both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/koPLg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZ0Vl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T15:42:54.290" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T09:41:12.977" Title="Can someone identify this part of the engine on a TVS Apache" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2015-06-04T14:15:53.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FYI, I took the car to the mechanic, and the problem was warped brake rotors in the front of the car caused by worn out brake pads. Apparently I have been driving without any brake pads for many months! I had no idea since I assumed the brakes would be squealing if this was the case. All pads and rotors needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10555" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T14:15:53.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17430" CreationDate="2015-06-04T14:24:04.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The arrow in the low resolution picture appears to point to the frame. The third picture shows the same side of the engine and a clear view of said frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T09:41:12.977" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T09:41:12.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-06-04T15:01:32.730" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question does not lend itself to ever having a specific answer. So the vague answer to your non pointed question is;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The root cause could be any number of things, including but not limited to;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The electrical system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low cylinder compression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Operator error&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T15:01:32.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15783" CreationDate="2015-06-04T15:17:51.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you said the reverse lights are still working, it's not the reverse switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This switch signals to the engine computer if you are in a gear or neutral. The computer uses this switch to determine several things, including how to handle engine deceleration during shifting and the idle feedback loop. With 1 wire broken, the computer only ever sees this switch in one state (open), which can cause idle issues (especially approaching a stop). Depending on how the computer handles this it may be using more fuel than it normally would, lowering your MPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this same issue on a 93 Nissan Sentra. The car would sometimes idle about 300rpm higher than normal and ran rich (too much fuel). Different manufacturer, but same concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T15:17:51.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17425" CreationDate="2015-06-04T15:21:05.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can produce Hydrogen-Sulfide, but usually only if &lt;em&gt;overcharged&lt;/em&gt; (which may be your case). There is a write-up at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/health_concerns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battery University Website&lt;/a&gt; which talks about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen-sulfide. The gas is colorless, very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs. Hydrogen sulfate also occurs naturally during the breakdown of organic matter in swamps and sewers; it is also present in volcanic gases, natural gas, and some well waters. Being heavier than air, the gas accumulates at the bottom of poorly ventilated spaces. Although noticeable at first, the sense of smell deadens with time and potential victims may be unaware of its presence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T15:21:05.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T15:36:06.330" Score="10" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to help a friend out with a CEL on his 2009 Merc GLK 280.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hooked it up to an OBD2 reader and retrieved a single code: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0300&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - 'Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected',  via the 'OBD Fusion' app on my iPad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;code&gt;P0300&lt;/code&gt; freeze frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+-----------------------------------------+-------------+&#xA;| Fuel System 1 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 2 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 1 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 2 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Calculated load value                   |      23.14% |&#xA;| Engine coolant temperature              |        49 C |&#xA;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1          |      11.72% |&#xA;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2          |       7.03% |&#xA;| Intake manifold absolute pressure       |      28 kPa |&#xA;| Engine RPM                              | 1293.75 RPM |&#xA;| Vehicle speed                           |     17 km/h |&#xA;| Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder |    42.5 deg |&#xA;| Intake air temperature                  |        46 C |&#xA;| Mass air flow rate                      |    5.63 g/s |&#xA;| Absolute throttle position              |      13.33% |&#xA;| Time since engine start                 |      26 sec |&#xA;| Fuel rail pressure                      |     380 kPa |&#xA;| Commanded evaporative purge             |          0% |&#xA;| Fuel level input                        |      45.49% |&#xA;| Barometric pressure                     |      99 kPa |&#xA;| Control module voltage                  |     13.29 V |&#xA;| Absolute load value                     |      17.25% |&#xA;| Fuel/Air commanded equivalence ratio    |        1.54 |&#xA;| Relative throttle position              |       1.96% |&#xA;| Ambient air temperature                 |        36 C |&#xA;| Absolute throttle position B            |      12.94% |&#xA;| Accelerator pedal postion D             |       6.27% |&#xA;| Accelerator pedal postion E             |       6.27% |&#xA;| Commanded throttle actuator control     |       2.75% |&#xA;+-----------------------------------------+-------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I collected further information via the scan tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lambda sensors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front sensors on both banks return 1.00 V. which indicates that they're toast (assuming they're narrowbands, normal output range should be 0.2 - 0.8 V). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear sensors read around 0.63 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both readings taken with the engine warm and at idle. Blipping the throttle registers a change in the voltage output of the rears only; the output of the fronts doesn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel trims&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long-term fuel trims are +7% for one bank, +11% for the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short-term fuel trims are 0% at hot idle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mass Air Flow, Fuel Flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At hot idle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mass air flow      = 3.66 g/s&#xA;Fuel flow          = 1.27 l/h, &#xA;Fuel rail pressure = 380 kPa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicates to me that AFR is around 14.88, close to stoich.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to say based off my calculation that the front lambdas are to blame, but a couple of things are puzzling me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the front lambda sensor voltage is indicating rich, why is the fuel trim positive (indicating that the injector pulse-width is increased because the AFR is deemed too lean by the sensor)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The misfire happens after a cold start with minimal throttle (note the time since engine start in the freeze frame). I'm not sure I completely understand the interaction here with the faulty lambda sensor, since cold start enrichment is playing a role here. If the system is running slightly richer than stoich, it would it not be less of a reason for the falsely-sensed rich condition to cause a misfire?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The owner is complaining of poor fuel economy as well. If the front lambda is sensing rich, I would expect the AFR to be leaner than reality, so I would expect fuel economy to be slightly better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T18:31:38.053" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T21:02:21.190" Title="A most intriguing cold-start misfire mystery" Tags="|electrical|o2-sensor|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T22:26:05.040" Score="2" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2000 Toyota Celica GTS 225k miles engine makes a mild rumbling/grumbling rough sound when accelerating slowly from a stop in drive or reverse only in the 800-1300 RPM band. Does not occur when in Park. Not sure what could be causing this mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Already changed (with OEM Toyota parts) Exhaust gaskets, Plugs, all 4 motor mounts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds almost like something in the engine is loose, pistons, value chatter, I am lost for an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully someone has a thought, Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10733" LastEditorUserId="10734" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T03:31:02.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T07:30:03.023" Title="Engine sound rumbles/grumble noise 800-1300 RPM" Tags="|engine|toyota|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17441" CreationDate="2015-06-04T22:54:23.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've never changed them, the problem might be one or more of the motor mounts. When one is worn out (especially ones which control the torque of the engine - like a dog bone type), it will start making strange noises when in the lower part of the RPM band from a stop. This can hold especially true if you are not really hearing it when up to speed. You can also feel it jerk a bit while taking off from a stop or hear it clunk (or dull thunk) when stopping hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T22:54:23.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16622" CreationDate="2015-06-04T23:23:35.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you really have three options I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your Google-Fu to use and scour the internet. I used the phrase &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=cars%20with%20telescoping%20steering%20wheels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cars with telescoping steering wheels&lt;/a&gt; in my search and came up with two lists which might be helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carmax.com/enus/top-10-lists/top-10-vehicles-for-shorter-drivers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top 10 Vehicles for Shorter Drivers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-10-vehicles-for-taller-drivers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top 10 Vehicles for Taller Drivers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you may think that is cray-cray or something, there are vehicles on there shown to have telescoping steering wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your second bet is to get one installed after you find a vehicle you like. There is a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ididitinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ididit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. They are out of Michigan. They have universal telescoping steering wheels which will retro-fit into anything ... if you find a qualified mechanic to put it in. I would imagine there are plenty of companies out there that make such steering wheels. I know the quality of the ididit ones are among the best. I had chance to visit their factory about five years ago. They are top notch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another choice may be not looking for the steering wheel as that, but look instead for vehicles which have adjustable pedals. I owned an '04 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 which had these. The pedals would adjust downward towards the floor for taller people, or towards the driver for shorter. In your case, you are wanting to sit further away from the steering wheel, so you'd probably put the seat a bit further back and extend the pedals along with it. It is really pretty slick. I'm sure the Suburban is not the only vehicle out there with them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T23:23:35.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16619" CreationDate="2015-06-04T23:25:28.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you reset the lights, it takes a few miles (and certain conditions) for it to get back to a ready state. When it gets there, if it isn't fixed, the lights will pop again. I'm wondering if you have a leak in your intake tract somewhere. Seems you were thinking that way when you replaced the intake gaskets. I'd look at the intake tube between your MAF and the throttle body. Also, look at any of the vacuum lines which attach to the intake. Double check all of the bolts on the intake (but don't over tighten). There are plenty of places air could be leaking in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T23:25:28.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2015-06-04T23:35:01.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, do power steering hoses just leak randomly like they are claiming? Or is there a reason to be suspicious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will bet the problem lies with the nylon seal which needs to be replaced with the pump (it's a real PITB to install) and they didn't do it with the pump install. It's the seal which allows movement out of the high pressure side (out flow of fluid). They are also easy to ding up when installing. I'd throw it back at them and ask them why it wasn't installed right in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of things may happen to a hose when the pump is replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power steering hoses are fairly robust animals. The usual way they fail is because they rub up against something and get a hole in them. I believe they are made to handle around 2000 psi (I'm sure this depends on the manufacturer of the vehicle, but they handle a lot of pressure). When an area gets weak due to a wear spot, it can fail there pretty easily. I guess a hose could leak due to excessive heat (coming in contact with a exhaust manifold) or accident damage as well. Under normal conditions, power steering hoses should last the life of your car. Just replacing the pump should have no effect on the hose itself, as long as it is reinstalled correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T23:35:01.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16506" CreationDate="2015-06-05T00:06:08.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degradation of the oil happens for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gets used&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The additive package within the oil breaks down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;strong&gt;it gets used&lt;/strong&gt;, I'm talking about mileage (or hours for certain applications). Using the motor puts carbon, trace amounts of water, and unspent gas (hydrocarbons) into the oil. This contaminates the oil, which a filter will do a pretty good job of removing the carbon ... until it too gets used up. Water gets into the oil in trace amounts due to blow-by, but evaporates when the engine becomes fully heated. Hydrocarbons will stay in the oil, helping to break down the oil additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main way that some vehicles are able to go further between oil changes is because &lt;em&gt;they have more oil in them&lt;/em&gt;. Take for instance some the Mercedes models take 8 to 9 quarts of oil (I believe the Dodge Hemi SRT is the same). With more oil in the crank case, it takes longer for these oils to become degraded due to usage or to a point where they no longer provide protection for the engine as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;strong&gt;additive package&lt;/strong&gt;, I'm talking about time. After the oil is put into the engine and becomes used (to whatever state), it will start degrading with time. It doesn't matter if there are 5 quarts or 30 quarts, it will all degrade with the same amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dedicated to motor oil&lt;/a&gt;. For the most part, their information seems pretty good (I have a few misgivings, but this may be opinion on my part). They talk about a couple of things I'll copy over here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The downside of a mineral based multi-grade oil is that this VII [viscosity index improvers] additive wears out over time and you end up with the original straight 10 grade oil. It will go back to being too thin when hot. It will have a thickness of 6 instead of 10. This may be why Porsche (according to some people) does not want a 0W-30 but rather a 10W-30. If the VII wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 grade oil. When the VII is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thinner. It goes back to a straight 10 grade oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reality is that motor oils do not need to be changed because they thin with use. It is the eventual thickening that limits the time you may keep oil in your engine. The limit is both time itself (with no motor use) and/or mileage use. The storage of motor oil in your garage, particularly mineral based oils, slowly ages the oil limiting its use later. Do not store huge volumes of oil in your garage that is exposed to extremes of temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:06:08.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16477" CreationDate="2015-06-05T00:08:35.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your not getting a connection through the terminals on the battery. Try pulling them off and cleaning them and see if it makes a difference. It could also be the ground connection on the other end from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be at least two + battery leads coming off of the battery. One goes to the starter solenoid. The other should go to the alternator and provide power for the rest of the vehicle. Check the secondary (smaller) lead to ensure there it is viable. You can do this through a continuity check from both ends. If there is a fusible link in it, it might have blown causing the lack of power to the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:08:35.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16254" CreationDate="2015-06-05T00:22:42.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There realistically should not be any worries about a rusty body other than aesthetics. As stated in the comments, though, you need to give the vehicle a good once over to ensure there is not structural damage from rust. Body parts will usually have issues well before structural parts, but it is at least worth checking. If you are going to treat this as a throw away car, drive it until the wheels fall off and don't worry about it. When the rust gets to a point where it is interfering with the safe operation of the vehicle or it gets just too ugly, then roll it over the scales (scrap yard) and call it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:22:42.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T01:40:08.390" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should the suspension coil springs be replaced on a Toyota Celica that is 15 years old and has 225k along with the struts or do the coils never really go bad? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about the top bearing plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10734" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T04:04:41.087" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:44:32.997" Title="New struts on a 2000 model year car with 225k miles, replace coils?" Tags="|toyota|suspension|springs|celica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16254" CreationDate="2015-06-05T08:34:50.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, it really depends on whether the rust is purely cosmetic, or if it affects structural parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on where you are, it may fail required safety tests - for example, in my jurisdiction a car will fail if it has any sharp edges (e.g. where you poked a hole through the rusted panel) or any rust within 30cm (12&quot;) of a suspension mounting point or seatbelt anchor point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T08:34:50.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17460" CreationDate="2015-06-05T08:44:10.730" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 'new' (2004) Subaru Forester last week. The other day, I took it in to have the wheel alignment checked, and once they had finished aligning it, they came back and said &quot;the battery was flat when we tried to start it to take it off the ramp&quot; - and lo and behold, when I tried to start it to leave work later the same day, it was indeed flat. The car hadn't shown any signs of a weak battery beforehand, and when I got home, I measured the voltage on the battery and it showed a healthy 12v (and started again happily), so had presumably charged itself up fine on the way home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, what on earth did they do to the car, in 20 minutes, to flatten the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(needless to say, I won't be going back to the same tyre shop!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:33:34.090" Title="How did the tyre shop flatten my battery?" Tags="|battery|subaru|forester|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17430" CreationDate="2015-06-05T09:51:50.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wyG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil Line&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that you mixed up the arrow-head direction. The part is definitely not connected to the starter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Though I'd earlier thought that it was for oil return from the Head , I believe it could also be some sort of reinforcement member. The bolts throw me off though, (could it be hollow to let the oil through?) You may need to look this up. &#xA;I was able to find it on page 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifeon-2-wheels.blogspot.in/2013/01/service-manual-and-part-manual-for-tvs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt; online.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1DStW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdGbL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part No. - M1010260  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your bike has overhead camshaft. This is definitely the oil line running from the pump .&#xA;The bolts, as I suspected are hollow bolts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TbXlb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1SrU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - I had to do this to a stranger's bike cause you wouldn't do it to yours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only kidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T12:45:17.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:45:17.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17450" CreationDate="2015-06-05T10:32:35.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some points which you should look for in your suspension to determine whether you need to change them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Bumpy Ride&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive the car on some rough roads, if you can feel all of the slightest bumps then unfortunately your coils are wearing out and you need to fix them.&#xA;Also drive on a pothole in low speed, does your suspension does full travel? if so then you need to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Stop test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive at about 25mph and hit the brakes hard, if your car rocks back and forth or it nose dives then you need to have a look at your suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Oil leakage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look carefully at your dampers, are there any noticeable leaks on them , then you need to address that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. The Bounce Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is by far the easiest way to know if your suspension is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand near the front wheel arch, press against the bonnet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On realease if your car bounces 2 or three times and slowly fades the bouncing effect then your suspensions are shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If on realease they dont bounce at all then same, check suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However, if on release it bounces approximately 2 times and stops bouncing quickly then your suspension is fine, do it for all 4 wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing all the above tests , you can be sure if you need to replace them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:32:35.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17459" CreationDate="2015-06-05T11:24:02.140" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying a 96 Chevy Cavilier which looks from the pictures to be in very well kept condition.  The only drawback the seller mentioned was an unknown leak from the manual transmission.  Can anyone give me an idea how serious this might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:25:17.593" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:25:17.593" Title="96 Chevy Cavilier Leak From the Transmission" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|manual-transmission|leak|cavalier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17457" CreationDate="2015-06-05T11:45:23.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be Transmission fluid leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a very good explanation and STEP by STEP DIY on how to check for transmission fluid leak on your partiacular car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4793597_check-transmission-fluid-chevy-cavalier.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Checking transmission oil leaks on cavalier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the check , fix the leak , that's the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it wont cause much of a problem if you don't change it often, change it every 100,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T11:45:23.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17457" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:27:47.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on where the leak is coming from. There are about three wear places where a front wheel drive manual transmission could be leaking from. Either where the input shaft goes in or where the axle shafts connect into the transmission. It could possibly be leaking from other gasketed areas (for instance where the transmission splits), but this is unlikely. Usually these areas don't leak unless the seal is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axle shaft seals are relatively easy to change, but take some work to do so. You have to remove the axle shafts to get to them. The input shaft seal on the transmission is a lot more involved because you have to remove and break apart the engine/transmission to get to the seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could possibly be leaking from where the shifter mechanism enters the transmission, but IIRC, this is in the top or upper portion of the transmission which would be above the tranny fluid line. At worst you get a small seepage from this area and not a full blown leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how bad the leak is will determine how serious it is. If it's only a drip every 100 miles, it's not a serious thing ... &lt;em&gt;yet&lt;/em&gt;. You would need to keep an eye on it and ensure you are not running low. If there is a small puddle on the driveway that continually grows day-after-day, this is an issue. Could you run the vehicle this way? Sure, as long as you keep the fluids topped off. This becomes a pain in the butt after a while as usually the fill/check hole for the transmission is not in the greatest of locations. It usually requires getting under the vehicle in order to make it happen. Then you have the environmental impacts, keeping your car and driveway clean, cost of purchasing fluid, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://octopart.com/10-4016-ac+delco-57609932&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the smell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:27:47.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17454" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:33:34.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old is the battery (if it has a date stamped on it)? If it is over five years old, I'd replace it as a maintenance item. Remember too, a &lt;em&gt;healthy&lt;/em&gt; battery should actually be over 13vdc at rest and fully charged. If your battery was only reading 12vdc, this is an indication of a weak battery to me. It may have a bad cell and accumulate what I call a &lt;em&gt;surface charge&lt;/em&gt;, where some of the time it has enough power for a short burst of energy which is enough to get the car started. Some of the time it doesn't and all you get is clicking from the starter (if even that). I would take the battery and have it load tested. This is the easiest way to get a good idea of the health of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:33:34.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17450" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:44:32.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time springs usually go bad is if the shocks/struts are no longer functioning. If a vehicle has bad shock/struts and is allowed to bounce all over the place, the springs become worn out. If the shocks/struts are replaced when required, you should have no fear of the springs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always do an inspection of the springs. Reasons to replace them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they are deformed in anyway (leaning to the side or bulging in the middle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If after alignment, one side of the vehicle is leaning when on level ground (you can also measure from the wheel well to the tire on either side to get a better idea - bounce the car several times prior to settle the car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they are broken. Sometimes extreme abuse can cause the springs to break. You'd probably know this if it happened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean the top mount of a strut when you said &lt;em&gt;bearing plate&lt;/em&gt;, this should be replaced if worn. It should be fairly self evident if it is (cracks and holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:44:32.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1707" CreationDate="2015-06-05T14:40:03.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are electronics (possibly integrated into the motor) that manages position and/or stall conditions (hitting travel limits).  You should be safe installing the motor without, &quot;clocking&quot; the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10126" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T14:40:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17466" CreationDate="2015-06-05T16:16:15.117" Score="2" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about fuel pumps, which are electric powered.  I was trying to understand why they wouldn't be part of the drivebelt assembly and my guess was that they need steady pumping rather than variable-speed, which is OK for every other pump on the drivebelt system.  Can anybody expand on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also trying to understand why they are always situated inside the fuel tank and not outside somewhere.  Because it shouldn't matter where the pumping occurs as long as there is an intake hose/line that dips into the bottom of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T17:10:57.207" Title="Why aren't fuel pumps powered by drivebelt?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2015-06-05T17:10:20.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great question, so let me help. First, I am the owner an auto repair center in New Hampshire and rusted brake rotors are almost an everyday occurrence here. If you live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter, like we do, then this information most likely pertains to you. 99% of the rotors that we have to replace are due to rust on the inside braking surface, not the outside part that you can see. You would think that both sides of the rotor would rust equally but that is NOT the case. The rust you described on the edges of the rotor and the hub are normal and most of the times is harmless, but that is where it starts. There are aftermarket brake suppliers (Centric is one name that we use) that install a powder coating material on the edges and hub of their rotors to prevent the rust from starting and then working into the braking surface. Resurfacing brake rotors is not a common procedure here in New England for many reasons. First, the rotors made today are not like the &quot;Old Days&quot; where there was enough metal to resurface them a couple of times and still be within the factory thickness specification. Today's rotors are thinner from the start and in most cases will be under the discard thickness before the rust is totally removed. Also, the quality of the metal used in brake rotors is not all the same. A &quot;Cheap&quot; or &quot;Economy&quot; rotor is more likely to warp or rust quicker than a premium component simply due to how and what they are made with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we are on the topic of &quot;Rust&quot; and &quot;Brakes&quot; there is another area that is greatly effected and that is the moving parts of the calipers and pads. When you step on your brake pedal hydraulic pressure pushes on a piston, or pistons, which forces the pads against the rotor. This is what creates the friction needed for stopping your car. When you release the pedal everything needs to relax on it's own in order to release your brakes. If rust builds up on the surface where your brake pads ride or on the pins the calipers slide on then your brakes could still be applied slightly and you'd never know it. This will cause premature and sometimes uneven wear to your brake pads. This will also create excessive heat build up in the rotors causing them to possibly warp giving you a pulsation feeling in your steering wheel or brake pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the influx of auto parts being manufactured overseas it is difficult to know exactly what is being installed on your car. This is where trusting your mechanic and service center is crucial and be sure to tell them your expectations of the car and the type of driving you regularly perform. Unfortunately, brakes is not an area that you should blindly look for the &quot;Cheapest&quot; quote because there is no telling what you could end up with. Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10739" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T17:10:20.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17464" CreationDate="2015-06-05T17:10:57.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right, it doesn't matter where the pumping occurs, but it usually works better if the fuel pump is below the level of the fuel. It does matter &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; the pumping occurs and varies widely by application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different fuel pumps out there. Some are inside the tank. Others are outside (inline) the tank. You are primarily thinking of fuel injection pumps, though. The main reason the stock location for fuel pumps is in the fuel tank is because the fuel is used to cool the pump which makes it more consistent (pressure output) and last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intank fuel pump assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwPo7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inline fuel pump assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65sty.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumps for carburetors come in many different flavors, but they are mainly outside of the tank and run at a much lower pressure than a FI pump (14psi v. 35-60psi depending on the vehicle manufacturer). Old school fuel pumps are mechanical and hang off the side of the block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHd0Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;em&gt;there are belt driven fuel pumps&lt;/em&gt;, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=belt%20driven%20fuel%20pump%20sbc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this Google Search&lt;/a&gt;. These are mainly for racing applications, though, where a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of fuel needs to be delivered in a short period of time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNyes.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T17:10:57.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17393" CreationDate="2015-06-05T17:47:26.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The information provided by DucatiKiller is excellent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the biggest advantage is access, which makes wheel changes and maintenance arguably easier. This could also translate to pit-lane advantage in racing situations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Particular case&lt;/em&gt; - in the case with Ninja H2R -  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Having a single-sided swingarm allows the exhaust pipe to be mounted&#xA;  closer to the bike’s centerline, providing a high bank angle for&#xA;  sporty cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt; - I actually have zilch experience about what I'm talking about-&lt;strong&gt;Fact.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the point on SSSA being lighter sounds plausible, and it maybe true for certain case by case comparisons I'm not sure if that can be actually generalized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The SSSA would need to be structurally as strong as the double sided swing-arms and hence as such it wouldn't be lighter ? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With SSSA you now have to engineer enough strength at the axle-pivot (?)(where the axle connects to the SSA) to counter the various moments of force, (it is in effect a cantilever kind of setup) which would have been balanced in a Double Sided Swingarm arrangement   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More material concentrated at the axle-pivot, add's to un-sprung weight, more so than the same amount of material evenly distributed over the swing-arm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All of the above is an over-generalized argument.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why manufacturers go with a particular design in this case boils down to design decision which may even include aesthetics apart from engineering considerations.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again, I'm not sure of any of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T06:47:54.673" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T06:47:54.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17475" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:59:40.490" Score="3" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/get-in-line-do-it-yourself-wheel-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, DIY-ing wheel alignment requires a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000VAS0WY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;camber gauge&lt;/a&gt; and either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000VAOHB2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;toe bar&lt;/a&gt; or toe plates.  Is that a complete list of tools required?  Is it better to use a toe bar than toe plates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T04:16:19.297" Title="What tools are needed to DIY wheel alignment?" Tags="|tools|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17470" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:39:14.710" Score="7" ViewCount="16443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection#Direct_injection&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct injection&lt;/a&gt; puts the air/fuel mix into the cylinder body directly vs the intake valve like the sequential does.  What are the advantages of doing so?  E.g. does it yield a better gas mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T02:51:24.910" Title="Advantages of direct vs sequential fuel injection" Tags="|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17469" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:52:26.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direct Injection has a lot of advantages over the MPFI or port injection and its the way of the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It improves mileage through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stratified_charge_engine&quot;&gt;stratified charge engine process&lt;/a&gt;(basically staying as close to the stochiometric ratio as possible this achieving better burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevents engine knocking/detonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better control of the engine since before GDI it was only possible to manipulate valve timings in real time operation to change the efficiency/power characteristics of the engine, now since you can vary the fuel pressure,amount. there are a whole lot of possibilities to explore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GDI engines are built sturdier compared to MPFI engines and last longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better power output compared to mpfi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate advantage of GDI is that through this technology everything happening inside the engine can be precisely controlled by the electronics and nothing is left to chances.&#xA;For example in mpfi some amount of fuel can be left over inside the injectors though not causing an issue , causes slight variation in every stroke but when you move over to GDI , its like a German train time table .it will be Perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T21:02:35.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T21:02:35.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15275" CreationDate="2015-06-06T01:30:21.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I pretty much took in all the advice you guys gave me (and from elsewhere too) and went ahead with the procedure with the oil pan still on the car.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;One big difference&lt;/strong&gt; though: Instead of using a tap, I used my oversize plug... I was stubborn and did not want to buy the tap nor take the pan off the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's how I did it:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack the car up; stands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drained the oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used an oversize &quot;self-tapping&quot; plug, put a glob of heavier grease all over the threads (i used silicone-based) and started tapping it into my oil pan with a smaller ratchet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ratcheted twice (~&amp;lt;=1/4 turn each) and backed out once. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat #4 until I felt some pressure increase and then I took the plug out all the way, cleaned all the shavings off, re-grease the threads, and started ratcheting again (#4).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once I got past the middle, at some point I started to feel a lot of pressure, and was forced to switch to my breaker bar. Repeat #5 with breaker bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Got to where the rubber gasket touched the oil pan, took out the plug and cleaned it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-greased and threaded the plug in, took it out, and cleaned it. Repeat a few times until the amount of shavings between the threads on the plug are minute. It became significantly easier to put the plug in now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poured 1-2 quarts of oil in the top and took the oil plug out from the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let engine drain, clean plug, clean inside of the threads of the oil pan (i used a small towel and jammed a small part of it in and threaded it out. got a good amount of shavings out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat from #9 until the inside of the oil pan threads and the threads on the plug are clean. (it would not &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; stop having &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; amount of shavings between the threads when I took the plug out. I'm pretty sure its still grinding a little and generates some shavings as it moves in and out. It's a rather small amount of shavings and they are all stuck in between the threads (and my grease) in the middle of the threads so I feel like its okay... it was late and i got tired so I decided to stop after 1 repeat.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the plug in and fill car with oil, check for leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start car and check for leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive around a bit and came back and checked for leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seemed good for now (i also have a crank seal leak still)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This whole process took a very long time. Steps 1-7 took me 40+ minutes. I took it very slow and did it very carefully. Particularly careful with the breaker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about a month? or less possibly? I changed the oil again for good measure.&#xA;Collected the oil and sent it in for UOA.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Came back relatively good. Slightly higher than baseline for iron but they didnt mention it at all in the notes. Slightly high in chrome, which they did mention, but said just keep an eye on it, its probably fine. I will see on my next UOA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this sometime from mid-February to early March. It is now early June. Still running well (or at least the same as before this operation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest others to get a &lt;strong&gt;threaded tap&lt;/strong&gt; like the ones mentioned in the other answer/comments and use the right size plug for the tap. This would minimize or completely get rid of the small amount of shavings I get between the threads every time I thread the plug in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or take the oil pan off and do it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T01:42:08.103" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T01:42:08.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2015-06-06T01:56:18.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust will usually be there to some extent. Rust on the edges does not affect anything. Rust on the surface would probably get ground off during braking if there is any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grooves in the rotors means you need to grind it flush or replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotors rarely actually get warped. Usually brake deposits cause uneven surfaces. Many people get scammed into thinking their rotors are warped when it is fixable (&lt;em&gt;It is even possible to do it with your brakes... but requires higher initial speeds and dangerous maneuvers. not recommended&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just watch out for deep grooves and minimum thickness.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;European style brakes - brake pads are usually made of much harder material (geared towards much higher speeds and smoother roads) and therefore cut into rotors much easier and recommend new rotors at least every 2 pad changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American style brakes - brake pads are usually made of softer material and the rotors last much longer. Recommend when the rotors are worn out... varies a lot due to materials and usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information is from doing research for a friend about his German car and how the dealership recommends that he change rotors EVERY time he changes the pads. I forgot some of the numbers that go along with this but this is the gist of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T02:03:18.630" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T02:03:18.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17468" CreationDate="2015-06-06T04:16:19.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your link is actually for toe plates and not the bar. I think either work very well, but I am preferential to the plates like what you have shown. It comes with identical tape measures and for the price I don't think you can beat it. Same with the camber gauge ... it would fit the bill quite nicely. The only other thing you'd need are the hand tools to do the adjustments. That is going to vary by car, but the measurement tools are the big parts of the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T04:16:19.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2015-06-06T13:10:09.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom line:&#xA;1.  The place that did the oil change will never admit they were at fault.&#xA;2.  You need AAA. Had to have car towed 3 times.&#xA;3.  You need an attorney&#xA;4.  You need a real great insurance company &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what happened to me: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lfeisaglitch.blogspot.com/2015/05/oil-change.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lfeisaglitch.blogspot.com/2015/05/oil-change.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10750" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T13:10:09.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T15:06:49.930" Score="1" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my question, the ac in my 2000 Chevy S10 2.2L stopped blowing cold air. the clutch doesn't seem to be engaging. I tried recharging the system but the gauge is up in the red zone already.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10751" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T15:49:03.643" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:18:58.883" Title="AC stopped blowing cold air" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|s10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T17:10:29.863" Score="6" ViewCount="10087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rather strange problem with my BMW G650GS. In the morning, when the engine is cold, it starts fine with a single crank. There is no problem with riding, the engine works fine and never chokes. Then, if I ride for a while to make the engine hot, stop it, let it stay for about 5 - 10 minutes and try to start it, it won't start.  It is cranking, the battery is new, the wires are checked and they are fine, the starter apparently works because there are no problems to start engine in the morning but the engine does not start no matter how long I keep the starter button pushed. I can drain the battery but it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two options to start it. One is to wait for 20 - 30 minutes until the engine cools down a little, then it starts with 2 - 4 cranks. Another options is to switch to the first gear press the clutch, push the motorcycle forward until it is going at least 5 miles per hour, then push the start button and start releasing the clutch, then at certain moment when the clutch is almost released the engine starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it doesn't work from the first try when the speed is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody experienced similar problems and how to fix it? There is problem to show this problem to a mechanic because the timing varies probably depending on the weather (how cold it is) or something else and it is not repeatable every time but in about 75%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10720" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T07:55:01.800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:07:28.830" Title="Engine on BMW G650GS 2011 does not start when it's hot" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|starting|bmw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:50:12.013" Score="1" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Escort ZX2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go to turn my car on. I have power, but it will not start. No clicking. Took starter off, it was bad. Put it back on. Also, took a new battery, put in my car from truck. Still same thing. What could be my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10755" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T18:56:24.080" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T11:51:46.447" Title="My Ford Escort ZX2 not starting" Tags="|ford|starting|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:54:22.763" Score="4" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;After few hours driving in town with a lot of traffic my AC was working fine, keeping low temperature inside. Then I had to stop the engine for few minutes and when I turned it on, although the AC button was pushed (glows green), the air coming out was hot. It seems to be working (after I press the AC button there is a &quot;click&quot; coming out of the compressor, along with clearly noticeable change in engine sound (slight RPM increse)), but it behaves as if there is no coolant in the system. &lt;strong&gt;After I opened the hood to check electrical connections, belts, etc I noticed a lot of small (oily) droplets all over and around the compressor.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I thought of is if there is some kind of pressure valve releasing the system freon (if the auxiliary fan is not rotating and the temperature is too high or in any other extreme case)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experienced anything similar or has any idea what could be the cause, please share your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The car is BMW E39.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T18:58:38.810" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T18:58:38.810" Title="AC suddenly stopped working?" Tags="|ac|bmw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T20:16:27.913" Score="0" ViewCount="5505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the rotors and the brake pads so far, but the brakes continue to pulsate whenever they are applied. The slides on the caliper are not stuck or frozen, but I think they may be the problem. Is there anything that would cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10757" LastEditorUserId="10758" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T00:08:28.453" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T22:24:02.563" Title="The brakes on my vehicle continue to pulsate, even with new rotors and pads" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17485" CreationDate="2015-06-06T21:16:33.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle has Antilock brakes remove the fuse for the ABS and see if the problem persists. A faulty sensor may cause the ABS to activate when it is not needed. If the issue is resolved with the fuse removed you must diagnose the ABS system. Two common causes for pulsation even after the rotors are replaced are failing to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugnuts and tweeking the hub. Another more common cause if rust build up on the rotor to hub mating surface. Many rotors have an extra hole between the lug stud holes. I have no idea what it's purpose is but is usually larger than the holes for the stud. rust forms on the hub at this unused hole. When the new rotor is installed the rust causes it to sit a little high. When everything is tightened down the rotor warps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T21:16:33.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18840" CreationDate="2015-06-06T23:41:45.607" Score="6" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm French and I own an old Volvo V70 car whose automatic gearbox sounds seriously tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe an specially in France, automatic gearbox is not usual as it may be, say in USA, so it's not easy to find qualified service about it, and even less easy to buy involved spare parts (usually brand's representant propose only standard exchange, and it frequently costs more than the vehicle actual value!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By chance I encountered a mechanic having real skills in this domain: he claims to perform the repair, and listed me which parts he needs for that. He also pointed me to its preferred supplier (Transtar), and I got its catalog, where I easily located the involved pages for my gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm now trying to identify the parts he described, but here is the point: from the french description, looking at the catalog I'm not sure at all to look at the right part names in english. My (simply usual) English doesn't cover this particular domain, and Google translation doesn't seem to be reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic said he needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a complete set of &lt;em&gt;joints&lt;/em&gt;: I guess it should be &lt;strong&gt;seals&lt;/strong&gt; but the catalog includes &lt;strong&gt;sealing rings&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;metal clad seals&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;axle seals&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a complete set of &lt;em&gt;plateaux&lt;/em&gt; : I think of &lt;strong&gt;plates&lt;/strong&gt; but I find &lt;strong&gt;friction plates&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;steel plates&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;pressure plates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a complete set of &lt;em&gt;disques&lt;/em&gt; : but I find no &lt;strong&gt;disk&lt;/strong&gt; at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a chance that someone can identify which parts are so needed from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screencast.com/t/JXILX9SX&quot;&gt;this catalog extract&lt;/a&gt; (only 9 pages), knowing that my gearbox is AW 55-50 and my car is from 2001?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10754" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:10:28.793" Title="Identify parts I need from a supplier catalog" Tags="|automatic-transmission|volvo|repair|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17491" CreationDate="2015-06-07T05:43:49.317" Score="24" ViewCount="17825" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we are using a turbocharger to compress the incoming air, the air gets hotter. Usually this hot air is cooled by using an intercooler before it's passed to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason behind cooling this air? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't we pass it as hot air, since inside the engine the air will be compressed which will heat it up anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10704" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T05:27:47.770" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T05:27:47.770" Title="Why do we need to cool air after it leaves a turbocharger?" Tags="|engine|turbocharger|intercooler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17490" CreationDate="2015-06-07T06:45:47.160" Score="35" Body="&lt;h2&gt;tl;dr&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;To combat detonation (in SI engines)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;To increase power/efficiency&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few important factors at play here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engine detonation is a real concern for SI engines&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spark-ignition engine is more likely to experience premature ignition (aka knocking or detonation) with hotter air. In fact, the calculations in the example below can show that this is the primary reason why intercooling is such a Good Idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hot air rises, cold air sinks&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In physics-speak, hot air is less dense than cold air. This means that the volume occupied by 1 kg of hot air is greater than the volume occupied by 1 kg of cold air.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The internal combustion engine is a volumetric device&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this implies is that every time the engine turns over and completes a cycle, the volume of air that is admitted into the combustion chamber(s) is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Power depends on mass, not volume&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power developed by the engine is proportional to the mass of air admitted into the combustion chamber and not its volume. More air molecules = more bang.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why turbochargers (or any other forced-induction devices) are utilized is to increase the power and/or efficiency of the IC engine. At combustion chamber level, this is achieved by increasing the amount of air molecules present during combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbocharger achieves this by pressurizing the incoming air. An unwanted by-product of this compression process is that the outgoing air is hot and less dense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this hot air is fed to the combustion chamber as-is, the likelihood of engine detonation is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By cooling the air via an intercooler, engine operation being safer since engine knock is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus the air becomes slightly denser, enabling more air molecules to be present during combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bonus Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is one of those questions where numbers can speak louder than words&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forums indicate that a stock Mitsubishi Evo X is capable of generating 22 psi boost at mid-range RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At sea level, the turbo inlet conditions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Air pressure @ turbo inlet      = 14.7 psi&#xA;&#xA;Assumed inlet air temperature   = 25 °C&#xA;  =&amp;gt; air density @ turbo inlet  = 1.184 kg/m^3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming 85% turbocharger efficiency, engineering calculations&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peacesoftware.de/einigewerte/luft_e.html&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt; will yield a discharge temperature close to 92 °C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Air pressure @ turbo outlet     = 14.7 + 22&#xA;                                = 36.7 psi &#xA;Air density @ 36.7 psi, 92 °C   = 2.41 kg/m^3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were it not for the fact that we care about detonation, the outlet density value looks rather tasty - it is more than double that of the inlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But look what happens when we run this hot discharge air through an intercooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a 1 psi drop in pressure, and that the air is cooled down to 70 °C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Air density @ 35.7 psi, 70 °C = 2.50 kg/m^3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the fact that we lose precious boost through the intercooler, the cooling effect ends up increasing the density by over 3%, so now the air is denser, and, more importantly, safer from an engine knock/detonation standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - &lt;sub&gt;I have worked out a truly marvelous calculation for this, which this margin is too narrow to contain&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T09:58:18.203" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T09:58:18.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T19:19:29.067" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we bought the truck the original battery was grounded to the alternator and my dad told me I should remove the ground and put it to the frame. Well after we did that all of my gauges started freaking out and stuff and my truck would just die all of a sudden. So I re-grounded to my alternator and now it runs fine with no strange gauge happenings I'm afraid I'm still doing something wrong. What would it be of I am?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10765" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T20:22:48.270" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T23:23:13.103" Title="I have a 1993 GMC sierra 1500 and I have some questions about the grounding" Tags="|electrical|gmc|sierra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:02:32.087" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;My right rear blinker on camper trailer does not work but every thing else does. I have a test light to test fuses and relays on truck to see if that may be an issue. It has camper tow package. Where do I ground the test light safely to begin checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truck is a 2008 F-250 Super Duty with 6.4 liter engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10766" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T00:34:39.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T00:34:39.577" Title="Rear blinker failure on camper trailer" Tags="|electrical|ford|turn-signal|trailer|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17493" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:27:13.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong with grounding your battery to the bottom of the alternator, as that is where it is on most of these vehicles (may have come that way from the factory ... I believe my 91 Suburban was grounded there as well). The problem you encountered was there aren't enough grounds going to the body from the engine and wherever else to the body properly give a good connection to the gauges. It's one of the first things I check when all of my gauges start going funky at the same time with no other explicable reason. As long as you are charging the battery, your gauges are good, and you don't see any other problems, I don't think I'd worry about it being there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside ... my father once told me this: &lt;em&gt;If it ain't broke, don't fix it.&lt;/em&gt; This seems like it's one of those cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T20:27:13.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17494" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:33:05.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can ground your test light at any place where there's a good ground. That might be a bare nut/both, off the leaf springs, on a rust spot on the bumper ... anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of connectors I've seen for smaller trailers (4 way or 7 way). If you are using the 4 way, I've seen if you twist the two connectors together (work them back/forth against each other a little), it will help with making the connection. If you are using the 7 way (which I bet you are), check both the truck and trailer sides for corrosion. If neither of these pan out, check to ensure you don't have any corrosion in the bulb sockets on that side of the trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also apply a 12v source directly to the trailer leads. This will let you know if the problem is on the truck side or on the trailer side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T20:33:05.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T04:19:42.907" Score="2" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 hyundai sonata 6 cylinder ac compressor pulley is making noise how dangerous is it to drive ? Also is there a temporary fix i could do or is it possible to grease the ac compressor bearing in my car? Thx everyone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T12:45:10.610" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:45:10.610" Title="ac compressor pulley making noise" Tags="|ac|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T11:45:52.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2015-06-08T08:11:38.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tick Tick Sound you here during Idling is from Auto De-compressor. This Auto Decomp starts functioning below 350RPM. If RPM is raised this sound should vanish (This is applicable for new UCE engines). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these Engines you also here some time Tick Tick sound after running the bike for few kilometers / engine warms up. This is basically maybe coming from the timing gear backlash acting, also in the high temperature Engine oil loose its property of viscocity (If Engine Oil is old) or could be due to Hydraulic Tappet (in new UCE engine Hydraulic tappets are used to avoid the tappet settings, Hydraulic tappets automatically adjust the gap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have tick tick sound in the ideling and even if it doesn't vanish after RPM increase then check the Auto De-comp (it is on the Exhaust timing gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sound is after running few kilometers or engine solidly warmed up then pls check for the timing gear backlash, Oil and Hydraulic tappets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10774" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T08:11:38.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17505" CreationDate="2015-06-08T08:33:49.123" Score="1" ViewCount="15364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a Peugeot  307 2003 1.6cc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current milage is 97,000 and last full service had been done when on 60,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had done my MOT recently there were no major issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wandering when should I change the Timing belt? And does MOT check Timing belt's condition ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T09:40:04.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T09:44:26.243" Title="When to change Timing belt - Peugeot 307 2003 1.6cc" Tags="|timing-belt|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17490" CreationDate="2015-06-08T09:07:25.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, there are two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooler air is more dense, so you get more power from the same boost pressure because you can inject more fuel at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hotter air will make the air/fuel mixture detonate prematurely (the mix needs to burn at a constant rate, at the exact right moment. It shouldn't &quot;explode&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second instance this will mean that you have to change the amount of ignition timing advance in an effort to prevent the mixture from exploding. It will cost you power because you're not firing the cylinder at the precise moment needed for optimal power delivery. You're losing power AND you get worse fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to intercooling, another way of cooling down the air going into the cylinder is to inject either a water/methanol mix OR Nitrous Oxide (in this case called a low-pressure or slow-release NO2 system because it's used to cool down the charge, not directly to increase power) alongside the air/fuel mixture. This is a favourite tactic of Subaru owners because these cars HATE hot air and leaner (more powerful) air/fuel ratios and additional cooling helps you run leaner air/fuel mixtures and optimal timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T09:07:25.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17508" CreationDate="2015-06-08T09:23:30.070" Score="9" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to acquire a 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5.  The car runs perfect but it has an almost flat battery.  Even the horn doesn't work unless the car is driven around. (No starting Problem though weirdly) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car only idles for about 2 minutes then chokes. Slowly after 5 chokes (like there is no fuel in car), it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the low battery have to do anything here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T19:18:51.603" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:18:51.603" Title="Do you need a charged battery for a car to Idle?" Tags="|engine|battery|mitsubishi|idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17503" CreationDate="2015-06-08T09:38:52.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery shouldn't make a difference, providing the alternator is working properly. However, if you don't have a starting problem, that suggests it isn't the battery that is the root cause of the problem - more like something electrical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the symptoms you describe, it sounds more like a fuelling issue - perhaps the fuel pump is cutting out after a short time? It's also possible that the immobiliser is doing something odd - cutting the fuel pump to stop the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T09:38:52.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2015-06-08T09:44:26.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know if the belt has already been changed, and if so, at what mileage? If it hasn't been done, I'd suggest it is worth doing - they usually need it at between 80 and 100k - the correct interval should be in your handbook. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the MOT doesn't check the condition - You can't generally check it without dismantling anything, as it's usually hidden behind a cover, and behind the auxiliary belts. The MOT tester isn't allowed to remove any covers or dismantle anything during the test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T09:44:26.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17507" CreationDate="2015-06-08T11:18:08.210" Score="3" ViewCount="4344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been experiencing a slow draining of the battery for the past 1-2 months wherein the vehicle will be fine and suddenly the vehicle will not start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thought was the battery, as the vehicle has about 90000 on it.  I could have tested it, but didn't; just bought another one thinking it would save the trouble soon enough if it wasn't the battery.  On installing the battery, I checked for the usual: lights left on, doors left open, etc.  But there was nothing out of the ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks later, the new battery drained. I charged up the old one swapped it in.  One week later, that one was drained.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determined now that it was not the battery, I searched high and low for some good tests.  I did a ground test (all less than 2-1ohm), point to point resistance check(all 1-2ohm), parasitic draw test (30mA after entering sleep mode), and charging voltage test.  Everything looked satisfactory.  The only thing that I noticed was, if I left the nominal voltage charging test run, for minutes, I would slowly watch the voltage creep down.  After twenty minutes I was seeing 13.8V after starting at 14.3V (measured across the battery terminals).  I ran out of time to swap out the battery on my multimeter (thinking this might be the culprit), so it could just be that.  But, I'm curious.  Does a slow fall of the charging voltage (across the battery terminals) indicate an alternator problem?  Belt tensioner problem?  Looking for thoughts on this slow decline in charging voltage across the battery to determine where to dig into next.  I didn't see how low it could go, but if the community thinks it's worth a shot, I'll do it (even if it means an hour to find it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle:  '08 Nissan Rogue,  AWD. 90k miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem has reoccurred once in the past month (10/15), after charging up the battery, I took it to Auto Zone for an alternator check where they informed me that everything was ok.  I'm starting to wonder about belt tensioner. Perhaps the belt is slipping past the alternator and the charging voltage is dropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="6216" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T02:10:32.303" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T16:02:06.557" Title="Battery Drains Every 1-3 Weeks" Tags="|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17506" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:34:03.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would place this as being an issue with the alternator. Take it in and have it checked, but I bet the reason is one (or more) of the diodes in the alternator is not working, which does not allow for a charge to occur correctly. Any of the major parts chains (AutoZone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, etc.) can and will check it for you for free. This seems like normal behavior for an alternator with issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:34:03.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17503" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:41:51.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like there is an issue with something in the vehicle after it goes from open loop (before sensors are used to run the car) to closed loop (where the vehicle starts using inputs from the O2s, MAF, and other sensors). This switch over usually occurs about two minutes from a cold start-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by cleaning the MAF with electronics cleaner (very carefully - or have the current owner do it), see when the O2 sensors were last replaced, checking the temperature sending units for proper operation, and cleaning the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. A thorough throttle body/intake tract cleaning could provide some help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Nick C stated, I doubt this has anything to do with the battery or charging system, considering the vehicle continues to start without fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:41:51.150" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:44:08.557" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;replaced rotors and pads(rotors twice)and still pulsating. Are the calipers the only thing left that could cause the pulsating? I checked the slides on the calipers the were ok( not stuck or frozen). I also removed the ABS fuse to see if that was causing the problem and that was not the problem. On two occasions on very cold days in the winter 0 to 5 degrees the brakes did not work the first time using them but were unstuck by pumping them once or twice seeming like they were freezing up. The pulsating problem started after this had happened not sure if this is connected. I bought the car in Oct. 2014 brakes were fine then noticed pulsating started when applying brakes heavy braking for exit off hwy. Pulsating just got worse as time went on now they pulsate going 20 mph under normal braking. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10757" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:44:08.557" Title="brakes still pulsating" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-08T15:43:26.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17513" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:24:15.757" Score="2" ViewCount="2738" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Peugeot 206 my indicator isn't working. If I indicate I go too the right, the indicator will turn on (with the correspending sound) for about 3 seconds and then it will turn off. If I want to turn it on again I'd have to find the 'sweet spot'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are possible solutions? Is this something I can fix myself (I do have airbags)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10779" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T15:58:16.447" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:58:16.447" Title="Peugeot 206 indicator not working properly" Tags="|peugeot|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:57:51.917" Score="4" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently got an old Mitsubishi l200 mk4 that I am restoring back to its former glory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back right passenger window won't go down. I have taken off the panel and I can see the motor working and the arm going up and down but it appears to not be pulling it down or the window is not dropping as a result of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10780" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:57:51.917" Title="Mitsubishi L200 MK4 2003 right back passenger window wont go down" Tags="|mitsubishi|power-windows|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17520" CreationDate="2015-06-08T14:59:31.800" Score="3" ViewCount="16257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please could somebody explain the problems we could face while we are driving during heavy rain or along flooded roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are examples of designs that mitigate the issues of driving in heavy rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the water gets inside the air intake pipe?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will it get inside the engine?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What happens if the engine is flooded with water?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there any way to recover from this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10704" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T21:17:13.473" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T22:33:16.520" Title="What are some problems faced when driving vehicles during heavy rain?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17510" CreationDate="2015-06-08T15:19:05.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check what happens when the hazard light is switched on. If hazard works correctly then the problem could be with the combination switch(light). It is better to get it replaced at the workshop is my suggestion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:19:05.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17512" CreationDate="2015-06-08T16:11:58.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydroplaning, while this can happen on light rain as well, is when you loose traction with the road due to water build up on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is flooding, you want to take it slow, as the water could be deeper than you expect it to be, but also because if a current is strong enough, it could float your car up some and drag it down current with you inside. It's best to avoid flooded parts as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive in deep enough water, you will probably flood the engine with water. Fixing a flooded engine is possible, but costly. Though if you do flood it, it's best to flood it with fresh water, because that's easier to fix than salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10619" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T16:11:58.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17519" CreationDate="2015-06-08T20:43:44.107" Score="3" ViewCount="2231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently realised that my car does not have ABS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would my stopping distances increase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make a lot of difference in good conditions (e.g dry, smooth roads)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it make any difference in icy conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of stopping in an emergency situation (i.e. maximum pressure on the brake pedal), what are the other effects of not having ABS? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T21:56:00.717" Title="What are the effects of not having ABS?" Tags="|brakes|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18067" CreationDate="2015-06-08T21:10:50.360" Score="6" ViewCount="12446" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my ATV (a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2x4) developed a carburetor issue where it would run rich. I took it to a mechanic who says that it needs a new carburetor. However, he was unable to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manufacturer:&lt;/strong&gt; Mikuni Corp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Model Number (partial):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;First Line:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;4WU 20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Second Line:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;???42&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaySz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eLkRP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fwBil.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can get the full model number of this carburetor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10791" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T17:21:01.057" Title="What model carburetor is this? (Mikuni Corp)" Tags="|part-identification|carburetor|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17423" CreationDate="2015-06-08T21:18:22.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's engine was in very bad condition, and had issues similar to yours. I've since repaired the original engine and years later also installed a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Cleaning:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I wouldn't say that the dirt holds everything together. Rather, when cleaning off the dirt, you might pull off parts of frail seals or break old plastic connectors, etc. In the end, cleaning it up externally can be very beneficial, since it can reveal problems that you weren't aware of before and makes troubleshooting leaks and other issues significantly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Internal Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I never trusted putting cleaning agents into my engine, rather, I would just drain the old fluids and refill with new ones. This way, I'd let the engine naturally flush the system each time the fluids were changed. If overtime the fluids became dirty again, I would troubleshoot to find the cause and fix the problem. Once again, I wouldn't say that the dirt holds everything together, the problem only comes when (for example, by flushing fluids) you loosen significant buildups that may clog channels, or cause problems with sensors. The oil sludge I'm sure would make it very hard for the engine to pump oil through the narrow passages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For you, I would minimally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that all the fluids (oil/coolant/brake/steering/...) are fresh. &lt;em&gt;(Are you using the proper coolant/mixture?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure all the filters &lt;em&gt;(Air/oil/fuel...)&lt;/em&gt; are clean/new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the major external parts of the engine that have buildup &lt;em&gt;(taking care to be gentle in areas where there are seals or small plastic parts that might be frail)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if you're feeling very comfortable with your abilities, you can (by hand) clean as much of the sludge/buildup inside the engine as you can, making sure to avoid sending it deeper into the engine. Only do what you're comfortable with... small projects can easily turn into huge one's... and for a car thats in that state, it might not be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I'm not a professional mechanic, nor have training, but I have done 10 years of significant car repairs/rebuilds.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T21:18:22.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17516" CreationDate="2015-06-08T21:56:00.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;ABS (should) allow for the best stopping traction you can get (in a perfect world) on the road surface regardless of road conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you see some caveats in the mix there. I'll try to explain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say &lt;em&gt;should allow&lt;/em&gt; for the best. All ABS systems are not created equal. Some work better than others (though I'm not going to break those out). ABS design should allow for the wheels to break traction with the road surface for only a smallest amount of time (hundredths or tenths of a second). As a tire loses traction, it stops rotating. The wheel speed sensor picks this up and tells the ABS pump to cycle on that wheel which allows the wheel to start spinning again. Then the cycle starts again. The computer is checking all four wheels at the same time (for most ABS systems ... some only have one sensor for the rear brakes, which relies on the spinning of the differential to tell it when it's moving or not. This is not a big deal as over 60% of the braking is done on the front end and the front is where the turning occurs, so traction during stopping is way more important there.) There is a situation on ice, if all four wheels were to stop spinning at the same moment (complete lockup), the ABS system will not react, because all four wheels are rotating at the same rate (ie: not spinning at all). This would make for the car to slide uncontrollably, unless you can get the tires to start rolling again, which means releasing then reapplying the brakes, which means great stopping distance. Ice is a special case, though. The regular recommendation is to &lt;em&gt;not drive on ice&lt;/em&gt;, but hopefully that is only common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would my stopping distances increase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, yes, your stopping distance will increase over a similarly equipped vehicle with ABS present. The reason is because the ABS pump can cycle much faster than you can pump the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it make a lot of difference in good conditions (e.g dry, smooth roads)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS does nothing for stopping distance &lt;em&gt;up to the point of where the tire break traction with the road surface&lt;/em&gt;. When that happens, the ABS kicks in and does its job, which greatly reduces your stopping distance. When the road surface is good, the ABS has less of a chance to activate, even during hard braking. That is because the grip between your tires and the road surface is much greater. Your tires will usually start to lose grip at the point I'd call &lt;em&gt;emergency braking&lt;/em&gt; ... where you really need to stop fast. This is when you can expect the ABS to kick in and this is the point at which you need it the most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In terms of stopping in an emergency situation (i.e. maximum pressure on the brake pedal), what are the other effects of not having ABS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the greatest dangers with your wheels locking up, which ABS &lt;em&gt;pretty much&lt;/em&gt; solves, is that when the front tires lock up, you lose the ability to steer your vehicle. During emergency stopping, without ABS, your front tires would have the tendency to lock up. When this happens, you can try and steer all you want, but your momentum will carry you in the same direction. The natural tendency of the driver at this point is to press on the brakes harder, trying to get your car to stop faster, but the car has now lost control and you are just along for the ride. If you are an experienced enough driver, you can overcome this tendency and pump the brakes. As you can see, this will definitely make for longer stopping times. Even on dry roads, ABS can make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it make any difference in icy conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does to an extent, but you still have to be careful when driving on icy roads, as I stated above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T21:56:00.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17512" CreationDate="2015-06-08T22:33:16.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are examples of designs that mitigate the issues of driving in heavy rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best mitigation is not to drive in it. Most roads are designed with a crown in the road (high spot in the middle), which allows the water to run off at a fairly rapid clip. This helps eliminate standing water to an extent. During extreme rain, this isn't possible and you will run into it from time to time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best example of mitigation would be tire tread design. There are three basic tread designs: Symmetric, asymmetric, directional&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mvpjq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The asymmetric tire is designed for the best of both worlds. One half of the tire is for dry performance, while the other side is for wet performance as it pumps the water away from the tire. Mind you, both sides work in both situations, it's just that each side does its own job better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles (4x4's with the proper setup) have what is called a &lt;em&gt;snorkeling kit&lt;/em&gt;, which basically puts the air intake and exhaust pipes above the roof line of the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXIuc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows the vehicle to traverse water up to the point of where the intake is at. If it goes deeper, it too will suck up water. &lt;strong&gt;Please note, this should only be used in standing or very slow moving water.&lt;/strong&gt; As was stated, if you go into fast moving water, &lt;em&gt;it will move the vehicle&lt;/em&gt; and it will be swept down steam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will the water gets inside the air intake pipe?&#xA;  Will it get inside the engine?&#xA;  What happens if the engine is flooded with water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can get inside the air intake pipe if the intake is low enough and the water high enough. When this happens, if the engine is running, it will suck it up into the intake, right after which will head directly into a cylinder or two. When this happens, the engine will stop as the intake valve closes and the piston starts to head upward. Normally at this point, the air/fuel mixture is being compressed. Since water will not compress, the engine stops &lt;em&gt;dead in its tracks&lt;/em&gt;. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;hydrolock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (aka: &lt;em&gt;hydrostatic lock&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way to recover from this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In severe cases, deformation of mechanical parts can occur, which would at the worst, require a complete engine replacement. This usually depends on engine speed at the time of water ingest. If it's at idle speed, the engine &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; won't suffer too much ill effects. It really depends on how long and how far the engine is submerged ... if completely submerged for days, the entire car is most likely going to be shot. If you get to it quickly and the only water in the engine is what was sucked up through the intake, it will probably survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is not physically damaged during the hydrolock process, it takes a little bit to get the engine going again. You would need to remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine, allowing the water to come up out of the hole and/or evacuate down the exhaust pipe after enough revolutions of the engine has occurred. You'd probably want to do this by hand. You'd also need to suck any fluid out of the cylinder which might remain. Next, you'd need to change the oil and filter, as more than likely, some of the water has seeped into the crank case around the piston rings. The only way you'd really know if there was internal damage (if it didn't physically manifest it self, like a rod through the block) would either be through getting all of this done. Through the process of turning the engine over after the spark plugs are removed, if you notice any turning issues, there is probably something mechanical which is bad. With the spark plugs out, the engine should turn over &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; easily. There is some resistance due to cam shaft friction, but other than that, it shouldn't be an issue. You would then try to running the engine. If it runs good, it's in good shape. If it doesn't, you have issues. You could tear the engine down to see, as well, but that is probably overkill at this point, especially if there aren't any issues with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T22:33:16.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T22:52:52.357" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bad 3rd gear synchro on my 2007 v6 6 speed manual Tacoma, which results in grinding when shifting 2nd-&gt;3rd gear if not done super carefully.  As I feel confident in my mechanical aptitude, having completed many smaller jobs to this point, I am eying a complete tranny rebuild as my next challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, taking down a tranny and taking it apart is quite an ordeal so I might as well replace everything that should be replaced at that point rather than just the 3rd gear synchro.  Can you help me identify a list of items that I should replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T12:23:46.520" Title="What parts/gears should be replaced if taking tranny down?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17538" CreationDate="2015-06-08T23:02:32.137" Score="4" ViewCount="39394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am preparing to do my first transmission (manual) rebuild job.  I was just curious if it is possible to test whether the job has been done right while the tranny is off vehicle while simulation torque transfer and clutch hydraulics ?  E.g. can you manually or some other way be cranking the transfer shaft while using a hand-held (or pedal driven) clutch simulation so that I know I did everything right before putting the tranny back on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:33:43.823" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T18:48:20.380" Title="Is it possible to test tranny when off vehicle?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16408" CreationDate="2015-06-09T06:42:12.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is because of the main bearings. The oil enters from above into the bearings. A worn bearing will cause the gap between the axle and the bearing to be larger, and more oil will escape, which leads to lower pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sHXTp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Main bearing oil canal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is bigger when you press the accelerator because the crankshaft will then be affected by a downward force from the pistons. This force will make the gap bigger on the upper side of the bearing where the oil enters and more oil will escape. This should be valid on inline and V-engines. I suppose boxers would not show the same symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T06:42:12.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17532" CreationDate="2015-06-09T12:41:09.680" Score="4" ViewCount="14456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of replacing the air filter of a bike into a custom free flow filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that I have to mod the exhaust to free flow as well to accompany the increase in exhaust due to the new filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends suggested that i need to add something called as a &quot;Piggy back&quot; ECU before the existing ECU so that it can compensate the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is  why? its the job of the ECU to monitor and compensate why do we need a piggy back ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T03:41:48.657" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T12:57:25.430" Title="Do I need to reprogram ECU when adding custom Air filter" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|electronic-control-module|air-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17531" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:01:16.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact answer to this is - It Depends...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that your existing ECU, whether it be on a bike or in a car, has a range of inputs and a range out outputs, and a mapping between them. As long as your inputs are within the ranges expected, it may well be able to cope with the changed architecture, however there are two common problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the type and number of inputs aren't sufficient to let the ECU know the new architecture sufficiently accurately, the outputs may just be wrong - either inefficient, or potentially damaging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the inputs stray outside the values expected, the ECU will not know what to do, and although ideally will cope gracefully by reducing fuel flow etc to 'safe ' levels, it could theoretically deliver unexpected and dangerous outputs, which could damage the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the majority of cases, point 1 is irrelevant, as you aren't changing the mapping requirements dramatically, but point 2 can happen relatively easily if the stock ECU is limited in its mapping permutations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T15:07:50.103" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T15:07:50.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:14:35.647" Score="2" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read through the past article and through others questions on this topic, but I am getting conflicting answers.  I had a flat tire and the tire company put two new tires on the rear of my Explorer.  They were the same make and model as the tires on the front.  The mechanic told me that I should have put 4 new tires on the car because I can start having issues with the drive train.  I went back to the tire company to get the two front tires replaced and they told me the mechanic was wrong.  As long as the tread was the same on the front tires and the tread was the same on the back tires it wouldn't matter.  So now I don't know what to do.  I will say I did start hearing a high pitch noise when I go at highway speeds.  Who is right here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10799" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T15:08:23.607" Title="4 new tires on 2013 Explorer?" Tags="|tires|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17547" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:56:20.990" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a 2002 Kia Shuma, and a few days ago I went for a 10 mile drive. I'm still learning how to drive, and I bumped into two kerbs, and while parking I hit a wall at low speed, at about 5-8 mph. No dents, just some scratches, so really not too serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I went back home and left the car parked on the drive for a few days. When I tried to drive it again, the central lock didn't work (so only front driver door can be opened), putting the key into the ignition has no effect whatsoever (no lights, no engine...). The car's completely dead and silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that hitting two kerbs, and the parking incident, had such a devastating effect on this car? Would it be worth towing it to a car service for them to have a look? I paid very little for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10800" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T20:10:54.237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T00:23:04.270" Title="Could very minor impacts have caused electrical problems?" Tags="|battery|kia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:07:00.200" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It gives you 6% less horsepower with 6% more fuel efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10801" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:07:00.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17533" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:22:19.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your Explorer 2 or 4 wheel drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If 2 wheel drive there is no issue at all - the two ends are separate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If 4 wheel drive there is a benefit to swapping all at once, as it reduces any differential slip issues through differing tire diameters, but you can have worse issues from having a tire running at too low pressure. It's not the tread, specifically, it's the effective diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4814/37&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for some extra info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T15:08:23.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17548" CreationDate="2015-06-09T15:02:02.150" Score="20" ViewCount="82089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find information on how engine load is defined. Is it really just a fancy word for torque demand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three parts to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a theoretical equation that is used to define engine load? If so, what is it? I couldn't find anything definitive in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0837617324&quot;&gt;Bosch Automotive Handbook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What parameters does an ECU look at to sense and determine the engine load? I don't think there is a single tell-all sensor which returns the engine load; there are likely several signals being combined here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some ECU's appear to make a distinction between relative and absolute engine load. What is the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T15:15:38.223" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T14:49:14.757" Title="How is engine load determined?" Tags="|engine-theory|engine-load|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17522" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:44:00.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test the transmission by putting it through the gears while turning the input shaft and examining the output shaft for proper rotation. What I mean by this is, put the transmission in first gear and check the output shaft rotation speed as you turn the input shaft. Next, put it in second gear and again check the output transmission speed. Does the speed seem slower than when you have it in first? Check the rest of the gears, sequentially to ensure the transmission is shifting into the correct gears and the transmission is performing as expected. Put it in reverse to see if the output shaft counterspins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot test the clutch while off the car. It has to be mounted to the flywheel, and the flywheel needs to be mounted to the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bench test the hydraulics to ensure they work. Other than that, you have rely on doing a good job and putting it back together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T16:44:00.313" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:47:30.883" Score="5" ViewCount="5124" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Lexus ES 300 (3.0L, automatic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check engine light is on and I scanned it: cylinders 1, 3, and 5 (bank 1) are misfiring. I’m basically getting these 3 symptoms when driving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Cylinders appear to randomly misfire (whether under load or not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Sometimes (apparently randomly) when I brake, the brake pedal doesn’t go all the way down, and I have to press down quite hard to brake properly. It’s almost as if the brake fluid is low, except the pedal doesn’t feel spongey but it feels hard and I can barely press it down. This only happens occasionally, most of the time the brakes are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Almost always when driving on the highway it feels like my car would downshift for a second, and then shift back up to the normal gear. Another way to describe it would be like the brakes are pressed down part way for a bit (car suddenly slows) and then released and the car returns to normal. Or another way, as if the car suddenly started driving through honey, and it slowed down a bit, and then returned quickly to normal paved road. It’s kind of hard to describe but I hope you get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I’ve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Replaced 1 damaged vacuum line (all others looked good)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Cleaned the MAF/ IAC valve/ throttle body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Replaced all 6 spark plugs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) It looks like it has a fairly new oil filter (presumably from a repair when I brought it into the shop for something last year)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms are still present, what could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10717" LastEditorUserId="10717" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T16:57:31.040" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T19:18:03.610" Title="2001 Lexus ES 300 bank 1 misfire" Tags="|misfire|lexus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-09T18:37:19.307" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T18:37:19.307" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T18:37:19.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-09T18:37:19.307" Score="0" Body="Instrument indicating the speed of a vehicle in km/h or mph" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:21:49.977" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:21:49.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2015-06-09T20:14:41.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember, you usually use jumper cables at the most INAPPROPRIATE times, in the freezing cold, at night, or in the rain. Dont skimp on this important piece of safety equipment. Dont go less than 4 gauge. The last thing you want to be doing is waiting in these conditions for the battery to charge up enough to start. Dont ask me how i know! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10802" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:14:41.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17546" CreationDate="2015-06-09T21:29:04.773" Score="4" ViewCount="23223" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Opel Engines come with something called TwinPort Technology.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I guess that this increases power, as the original Z12XE (1.2) engine has 55kW, and the TwinPort (Z12XE&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;) version engine has 59kW of horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this computer controlled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the standard and Twinport engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any disadvantages or other benefits of this system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T21:45:13.350" Title="What is Opel/Vauxhall's TwinPort Technology?" Tags="|engine|gm|ecotec|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17545" CreationDate="2015-06-09T21:51:34.217" Score="2" ViewCount="9321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the engine on my 2007 V6 Tacoma is in a really good shape but both exhaust manifolds coming out of the engine block are really rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1:&lt;/strong&gt; Is that a reason to worry or replace them, provided that they don't actually malfunction?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q3:&lt;/strong&gt; Is it an indicator/manifestation of a more serious engine problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2:&lt;/strong&gt; Do exhaust manifolds have a propensity to rust faster than other parts and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:14:26.557" Title="Rusty exhaust manifolds" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17544" CreationDate="2015-06-09T22:12:21.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1:&lt;/strong&gt; Is that a reason to worry or replace them, provided that they don't actually malfunction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason you'd want to replace stock manifolds is if they are cracked (or broken) or if you want to do a performance upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2:&lt;/strong&gt; Do exhaust manifolds have a propensity to rust faster than other parts and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The reason is because of the heat. The extreme heat of the exhaust causes any type of protection which would normally be on them to burn off, which allows the cast iron to show more rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q3:&lt;/strong&gt; Is it an indicator/manifestation of a more serious engine problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It's just a fact of life. Cast iron rusts. Cast iron under extreme heat rusts faster. In most cases (there are exceptions), the cast iron exhaust header will probably outlast the usefulness of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I was going to mention, there are products on the market which can withstand the heat of the exhaust. Some of these will bond to the cast iron and inhibit the rust. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003MC385M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This POR 15 product is a great example.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T22:14:26.557" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:14:26.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17543" CreationDate="2015-06-09T23:56:17.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Twinport Ecotech engine is the second generation of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_0_engine#Generation_II&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GM Family 0 engine&lt;/a&gt; technology (also called &lt;em&gt;Family Zero&lt;/em&gt; ... haha, could even be &quot;Family &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Zed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; in the right parts of the world, eh?). It works by having the ability to close off one of the two intake ports near the intake valve at low engine speeds, which speeds up the air entering the cylinder and causes a swirl of the air fuel mixture as it enters. This produces better low end torque. Coupled with advanced exhaust gas recirculation allows for better gas mileage without engine misfires (from the extra exhaust gas). As the engine speeds up, the secondary port is opened. Here is an image of how the air flows into the engine with (left) and without (right) the port open:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6OJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this should not affect high end horsepower output, I'd suggest the difference between the two engines is the compression ratio bump (10.1:1 vs 10.5:1 for the Twinport) and probably tuning. As a rule of thumb, every point of compression is worth approximately 3% change in horsepower, so that alone would not make up the 7% difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldcarfans.com/104071510448/new-opel-12-liter-twinport-engine-premieres-in-corsa-and-agila&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WorldCarFans.com&lt;/a&gt; says this about the Twinport:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The new 1.2-liter engine also features a number of notable improvements over its already extremely fuel efficient predecessor. The Corsa's 1.2 TWINPORT ECOTEC with Easytronic has 5 hp or nearly 7 percent more power, yet needs only 5.3 liters fuel per 100 kilometers - 0.7 liters or around 12 percent less than the 1.2 ECOTEC offered to date. In conjunction with the 5-speed manual transmission, consumption is reduced by 0.3 liters (5.8 instead of 6.1/100km) or around 5 percent per 100 kilometers. At the same time, performance has been improved: the Corsa 1.2 TWINPORT accelerates from 0 -100 km/h in 12.5 seconds (down from 13 seconds), while maximum speed is 5 km/h higher at 175 km/h. The new 80 hp engine complies with the Euro 4 emissions standard and comes with a five-speed manual transmission. The Easytronic automated manual transmission is available as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T23:56:17.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17534" CreationDate="2015-06-10T00:23:04.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything is possible, but small bumps and such shouldn't cause electrical problem like that.  All we know now is that your battery is dead or disconnected.  Pop the hood, and check to see the battery is still connected (i.e. the connections didn't come loose during a bump) Then you'll want to test it with a multimeter (if you have one), or just put the battery on a car battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still connected, then there's another problem why your battery is going dead.  Check interior lights, car stereo, alarm, etc.  If you have a multimeter, you can do a drain check while the car is off.  (Test for current in-line to battery.)  The would tell you if something is draining your battery while the car is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it's also possible (tho unlikely I think) that the battery has failed internally.  Maybe if it's a very old poorly maintained battery, would cause these problems... open the little plugs on top of the battery (if you have them) and make sure there's liquid in there.  Check for leaks around the battery area of the car also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T00:23:04.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17537" CreationDate="2015-06-10T00:37:25.670" Score="21" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a theoretical equation that is used to define engine load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not theoretical, but real. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://standards.sae.org/j1979_201408/&quot;&gt;SAE International SAE J1979 / ISO 15031-5&lt;/a&gt; (dated: 2014-08-11), calculated engine load is calculated by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotechconsultants.info/files/Calculated_Load_and_Absolute_Load_Calculations.pdf&quot;&gt;following equation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LOAD_PCT = [current airflow] / [(peak airflow at WOT@STP as a function of rpm) * &#xA;     (BARO/29.92) * SQRT(298/(AAT+273))]&#xA;Where:&#xA;&#xA;- STP = Standard Temperature and Pressure = 25 °C, 29.92 in Hg BARO, &#xA;- SQRT = square root&#xA;- WOT = wide open throttle &#xA;- AAT = Ambient Air Temperature (in °C)&#xA;&#xA;Characteristics of LOAD_PCT are:&#xA;&#xA;- Reaches 1.0 at WOT at any altitude, temperature or rpm for both naturally&#xA;  aspirated and boosted engines.&#xA;- Indicates percent of peak available torque.&#xA;- Linearly correlated with engine vacuum&#xA;- Often used to schedule power enrichment.&#xA;- Compression ignition engines (diesels) shall support this PID using fuel&#xA;  flow in place of airflow for the above calculations. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of this portion (Characteristics) gives you a lot of the information you are seeking. The percentage given by the equation indicates percent of peak available torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What parameters does an ECU look at to sense and determine the engine load? I don't think there is a single tell-all sensor which returns the engine load; there are likely several signals being combined here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a single sensor it uses to figure this out. For a gasoline (or spark ignition) engine, it utilizes the Air Intake Sensor (IAT), Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor to do calculations and to discover if the engine is at the ready point to make the calculations. The percentage variable can be read from the ECU using PID $04. According the the standard, both compression ignition (diesel) and spark ignition (gasoline) systems are required to maintain this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some ECU's appear to make a distinction between relative and absolute engine load. What is the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've seen the above equation for calculated engine load. Below is the calculation for &lt;em&gt;absolute engine load&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LOAD_ABS = [air mass (g / intake stroke)] / [1.184 (g / intake stroke) *&#xA;     cylinder displacement in liters]&#xA;&#xA;Derivation:&#xA;&#xA;- air mass (g / intake stroke) = [total engine air mass (g/sec)] / &#xA;    [rpm (revs/min)* (1 min / 60 sec) * (1/2 # of cylinders (strokes / rev)]&#xA;&#xA;- LOAD_ABS = [air mass (g)/intake stroke] / [maximum air mass (g)/intake &#xA;    stroke at WOT@STP at 100% volumetric efficiency] * 100%. &#xA;&#xA;Where:&#xA;&#xA;- STP = Standard Temperature and Pressure = 25 °C, 29.92 in Hg (101.3 kPa)&#xA;  BARO&#xA;- WOT = wide open throttle&#xA;&#xA;The quantity (maximum air mass (g)/intake stroke at WOT@STP at 100% &#xA;volumetric efficiency) is a constant for a given cylinder swept volume. &#xA;The constant is 1.184 (g/liter 3) * cylinder displacement (liter 3/intake&#xA;stroke) based on air density at STP.&#xA;&#xA;Characteristics of LOAD_ABS are:&#xA;&#xA;- Ranges from 0 to approximately 0.95 for naturally aspirated engines,&#xA;  0 – 4 for boosted engines&#xA;- Linearly correlated with engine indicated and brake torque,&#xA;- Often used to schedule spark and EGR rates,&#xA;- Peak value of LOAD_ABS correlates with volumetric efficiency at WOT.&#xA;- Indicates the pumping efficiency of the engine for diagnostic purposes.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can probably see, this equation relies on the flow of air and basically engine displacement. As it states in the body, this correlates with volumetric efficiency (how completely a cylinder fills with air on the intake stroke) at WOT. This variable can be read from the ECU on PID $43. It is only required by the standard on spark ignition systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T21:40:09.663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:40:09.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-10T01:12:31.213" Score="4" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is, though, that if I shut off the car and start it back up (even just 5 minutes later), everything goes back to normal for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once I am driving for say 10 - 15 minutes or longer, it starts making noise on turns and gets heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the pump to another used pump. This is the 3rd pump I have replaced in the last 2 weeks, could this be another bad pump (even though it doesn't leak fluid, as far as I have seen, and it doesn't have air bubbles in the reservoir)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other things that could be causing this? I was reading up other causes of the general whining noise and some were suggesting replacing the pump inlet fitting O-ring, but I am not sure if that is the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any easy test I can do to see if it really is the pump inlet fitting O-ring in my case or if there is something else going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10804" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T00:38:55.250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T00:42:52.320" Title="My 98 Honda CRV power steering gets heavy after driving for a few minutes" Tags="|honda|power-steering|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17537" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:32:48.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine load is measured by the MAF sensor. In other words, it measures how much air (and fuel) you're sucking into the engine and then compares that value to the theoretical maximum.  When I modified my Subaru's fueling, boost and ignition maps, all the tables plotting engine load to RPM referenced engine load in CFM (Cubic feet per minute). It basically means that because my turbo flows e.g. 350cfm max, the closer the actual airflow is to that, the higher the load percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:32:48.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:39:55.523" Score="3" ViewCount="9078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some pictures of people replacing their OEM valve covers with something aftermarket, usually something painted. Considering that is only pretty much just a lid that goes over the topmost part of the engine, camshafts, and has all the necessary sockets for sensors, FI etc, I was wondering if such an upgrade can actually yield an engine performance enhancement or is it just done to make the engine look more sporty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:49:35.197" Title="Can replacing valve cover affect engine performance?" Tags="|valve-cover|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17531" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:43:03.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There is no need to reprogram the ECU&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The engine barely feels a difference&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what the name implies, a &quot;free-flowing&quot; intake impacts the &lt;em&gt;pressure&lt;/em&gt; at the valve inlet and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the &lt;em&gt;volume&lt;/em&gt; of fresh inlet air per cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here are the numbers to back it up:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K&amp;amp;N provide &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/YA-1208.pdf&quot;&gt;detailed test data&lt;/a&gt; for the Yamaha R15, which serves as a basis for the following assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pressure before the air intake (at max. flow) = 14.636 psi&#xA;Pressure drop across K&amp;amp;N intake (low dust)    = 6 in. H2O&#xA;                                              = 0.217 psi&#xA;Pressure at intake valve inlet                = 14.419 psi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that the stock air intake is really bad and drops pressure by 14 in. H2O (similar to pressure drop across the K&amp;amp;N filter when it is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; clogged with dust). Under similar inlet conditions, the stock filter would yield the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pressure at intake valve inlet                = 14.130 psi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's less than 0.3 psi difference. In terms of mass flow, the engine sees roughly &lt;strong&gt;2%&lt;/strong&gt; more air&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of fueling correction, a stoich AFR would increase from 14.7 to 15.0. Lean, but not exactly anorexic. Plus...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fuel-injection management corrects for minor changes anyway&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most fuel-injected systems are capable of making fueling corrections to ensure that AFR's are what they ought to be. What this means is that leaning out should not even be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%28density+air+25%C2%B0C%2C+14.130+psi%29+&quot;&gt;values&lt;/a&gt; from Wolfram|Alpha, assuming &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%28density+air+25%C2%B0C%2C+14.419+psi%29+&quot;&gt;25 °C&lt;/a&gt; ambient temp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:43:03.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17554" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:54:06.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the name implies, a valve cover is just a cover; its function is to protect the innards from the outside elements. It has no direct impact on engine performance unless the original valve cover was damaged or cracked to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, replacing a worn valve cover &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gasket&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on certain engines is probably a more effective way to recover lost performance as it can prevent unmetered air from affecting fuel trims (not to mention avoid unwanted oil leaks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T09:49:35.197" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:49:35.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17558" CreationDate="2015-06-10T16:47:28.993" Score="3" ViewCount="1380" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zUJ8s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I went to have my 1999 Chevy Tahoe aligned after getting new tires mounted.  I am concerned about the toe results.  The left front toe is 0.37, specified to be 0.02-0.22; the right is -0.5, with same spec of 0.02-0.22; and the total is 0.32, specified 0.04-0.44.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned with the left toe, even though the total is in range? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10808" LastEditorUserId="10808" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T10:17:25.050" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T10:44:52.997" Title="Individual wheels' toes are out of range but combination is within specs" Tags="|chevrolet|wheels|steering|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17557" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:42:45.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, total toe is what matters, as long as your steering wheel is straight when you are riding down the road. Basically when those readings were taken the steering wheel may not have been pointing straight ahead. If the tech didn't still have the steering wheel locked down and the steering wheel turned slightly it would cause those readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause is the alignment is compensating for a thrust angle problem, if so again this would be normal. I can expand on my answer if you will include a picture of the printout you got. You can black out VIN, name, address, etc if it's on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T21:57:44.247" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:57:44.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17561" CreationDate="2015-06-10T20:01:56.470" Score="3" ViewCount="2258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is a '95 Toyota Corolla.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was driving yesterday for about 5 minutes and glanced at the temperature gauge which I noticed was running pretty high (weather has been around 90 degrees f lately).  As I was watching it pushed into the red so I immediately pulled over and turned off the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opened the hood, no steam or smoke which I assume is good, but looked at my coolant tank and saw that it was bone dry.  Left the car overnight and came back in the morning with more coolant, filled it to the fill line and drove home, about 1 mile, and everything seemed to be alright.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I wanted to test it some more so I checked the coolant and seeing that it was still at the fill line I drove about 4 miles and it started overheating again, so I pull over and turn off the car immediately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check the tank again and the coolant is still at the fill line.  I walk away to call a friend for a ride and look at it again 2 minutes later and the level of coolant has dropped to about a quarter, and a small, fresh puddle is visible underneath the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that it was obviously a leak, but a buddy says it might be my thermostat acting up, because of the odd behavior of the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to get a second opinion so please let me know if you need any other info.  Some additional things that might be helpful are I didn't see any coolant in the oil when I checked, and I also didn't open the radiator cap to check for coolant since the car was hot, but I will check that soonish.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T22:10:21.440" Title="95 Corolla overheats, probable coolant leak or maybe thermostat, need more advice." Tags="|coolant|radiator|corolla|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17560" CreationDate="2015-06-10T20:45:38.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're referring to as a &quot;coolant tank&quot; is your radiator overflow tank.  While it does have to have some coolant in it, putting coolant/water in it doesn't do anything to cool your engine really.  You need to twist the radiator cap off (make sure you wait for it to cool off) and pour coolant or maybe for the time being while testing, just tap water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be several reasons why your engine may be overheating, in the order of repair complexity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator cap lost its gasket and it is letting steam out, draining the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant system leak somewhere (hoses or clamped connections).  This can be tested using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/mityvac-cooling-system-automotive-radiator-test-kit-mitymx4560/p-00902726000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&amp;amp;kpid=00902726000&amp;amp;pla=&amp;amp;kispla=00902726000P&amp;amp;mktRedirect=y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pressure test kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermostat is stuck closed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump is not spinning the impeller (not passing torque from the drivebelt pulley)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head gasket(s) are blown.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common way to test whether that's the case is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Combustion-Leak-Detector-P58326.aspx?gclid=CKLRnP3-hcYCFZGQHwodAZcAAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;combustion leak detector&lt;/a&gt; to chemically probe your coolant fumes for oil and other impurities that get into it through gasket leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T22:10:21.440" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T22:10:21.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6368" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:26:28.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just read the paperwork that came with my Wagner Disc Pads, which explains:&#xA;When, Where, &amp;amp; What Chemical Compounds to use During Disc Pad installation, for different types of pads. &#xA;In General, caliper rails or abutments (where there is metal-to-metal contact with the disc pad plate) should be cleaned and lubricated with Moly Lube. Guide Pins should be lubed with Silicone Lubricant. Petroleum based lubes WILL adversely affect the rubber guide pin boots. &#xA;Wagner's top of the line &quot;ThermoQuiet&quot; requires that NO chemical compounds be placed on the insulator area of the disc brake pads. &#xA;I never had read the paperwork before, but I'm waiting on other parts. &#xA;So, best to find out what the Mfg. recommends for your specific design. &#xA;And BTW, if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time, pay extra for &quot;Lifetime&quot; pads &amp;amp; calipers... new stuff free next time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10813" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:26:28.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:09:02.287" Score="1" ViewCount="1430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 with manual transmission. It has had noticeable play in the shifter but had no problems until suddenly the clutch just would not engage after being pushed down completely. It does have tension but when you try to put it in reverse it grinds the gear, and will not lock into 1st. Any ideas of what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10814" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:32:13.777" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:32:13.777" Title="Reverse grinds and transmission won't lock into 1st gear" Tags="|ford|clutch|manual-transmission|escort|bushing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T03:41:10.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T01:54:22.427" Score="2" ViewCount="14527" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fuel gauge does show a full tank when filled, however as fuel is used the gauge will not read accurately. I'm getting the fault code -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;P0462&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is setting the &lt;strong&gt;Service Engine Soon&lt;/strong&gt; light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can you buy a Fuel Level Sensor? All of the Fuel modules for sale come with fuel pump w/wo fuel level. I don't think I need to replace the pump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would just replacing the fuel potentiometer do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T10:08:51.550" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T23:40:34.037" Title="Altima 2006 2.5 S Code P0462 = Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit, Low Input Fuel Gauge Is Inop" Tags="|fuel-system|nissan|cel|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T03:21:44.587" Score="0" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 dodge ram 1500 hemi. When I accelerate hard I hear a slapping noise when it shifts, it also clunks when shifting if I let off the gas during a shift&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10818" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T12:53:48.813" Title="hard shifting and snapping noise" Tags="|transmission|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17564" CreationDate="2015-06-11T06:57:18.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fault Code P0462 reads out - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input and could be caused by - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- Faulty fuel level sensor&#xA;- Fuel level sensor harness is open or shorted&#xA;- Fuel level sensor circuit poor electrical connection  &#xA;- Combination meter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're getting the right output when the tank is topped up, this is most likely a failing sensor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The check light is set-off when -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An excessively low voltage is sent from the sensor is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Symptoms - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Incorrect fuel level reading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're getting both.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Info specific to the Altima - 2006 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fuel level sensor is mounted in the fuel level sensor unit. The sensor detects a fuel level in the fuel tank and transmits a signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The fuel level sensor consists of two parts, one is mechanical float and the other side is variable resistor. The fuel level sensor output voltage changes depending on the movement of the fuel mechanical float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try resetting the code, checking all the connections, topping the fuel up again and seeing if the problem persists.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it does, you'l need to replace the fuel level sensor as you rightly surmised.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure where and whether you'l be able to buy this part separately, but it surely doesn't warrant a fuel pump replacement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine-codes.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good-luck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T10:12:02.327" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T10:12:02.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:05:55.843" Score="4" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I pull back the stalk to squirt washer fluid onto the windscreen, 1997 Passat, the wipers move but no fluid comes out. There's not even the sound of anything trying to come out. Does this mean that the pump has gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note I've replaced the comfort control module to try to fix it to no avail and I can't see any kinks in the hose leading to the nozzles. The washer fluid tank is also full, can being overfull be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10821" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:50:12.363" Title="No windscreen washer fluid coming through (VW Passat 1997)" Tags="|windshield-washer|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17567" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:42:01.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you dont hear any buzzing sound from the pump then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a blown fuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the fuse is intact then remove the pump and take it to a mechanic to fix or replace.Also if possible check the wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overfilling does not cause any problem as long as the pump is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://danzuc.blogspot.in/2010/11/passat-b5-fusebox-location.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuse Location for VW Passat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:Number 24 is the fuse for windscreen washer motor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T09:50:12.363" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T09:50:12.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17557" CreationDate="2015-06-11T10:44:52.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced its ok.  The total toe is within spec but the toe on one side is out of spec, this would mean that the wheel may well scrub on one edge faster than the rest. The idea of it being acceptable at 0.44 is that its a total of 0.22 on both sides.  The front left is 0.37 out which is out of spec.  I would normally bring it back to within spec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T10:44:52.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17565" CreationDate="2015-06-11T12:25:44.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the sounds of it, you have a bad motor mount or transmission/transfer mount. The easiest way to check these is by having a friend help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have someone in the cab behind the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the truck and put the parking brake on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While observing on side motor mount, put the truck in drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See if the motor mount has excess movement (does the engine look like it's lifting?) - the person behind the wheel can possibly rev the engine a little bit to enhance any movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the truck in reverse and repeat the above step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the transmission/transfer mount using the same method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't pan out, there may be an issue with your U-joint(s). To check these, put the parking brake on and put the transmission in neutral (engine does not need to be running, but truck should be on level ground). Here, you are taking the pressure off of the drive line. Get underneath your truck and wiggle the drive line at the U-joints, also turning it back and forth. You are looking for any kind of movement at the joint. It should be solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the only way you are going to be able to tell is by observing what is going on with the truck, under and around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T12:25:44.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17591" CreationDate="2015-06-11T13:14:30.823" Score="10" ViewCount="16242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW 630i Steptronic from 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I floor the pedal in neutral the RPM is of course limited, but it doesn't &quot;bounce&quot; like regular rev limiters. Instead it keeps a constant and &quot;clean&quot; RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old Audi A6 Multitronic 2008 did the exact same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What changed from the old &quot;dancing&quot; rev limiters to this type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10822" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T10:48:16.873" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T10:48:16.873" Title="Why doesn't my rev limiter bounce?" Tags="|engine-theory|rpm|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17613" CreationDate="2015-06-11T14:34:57.977" Score="3" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed an engine (complete from oil pan to the valve cover) from a 2010 Malibu in my 2006 Solstice. (Replacing a blown engine.) The car will not crank / turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My scanner (HP tuners) reports no DTCs, and my CEL is not lit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No security light, though this was formerly lit when I had not properly reconnected the BCM connectors between the chassis/body harness and engine harness. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pump is also not being activated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When turning the key, I can hear relays clicking from the fuse block under/behind the passenger floorboard as well as from the fuse block in the engine bay. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instrument cluster does it's POST thing when turning the key to &quot;start&quot; or &quot;run.&quot; (Gauges sweep all the way to the right then back to zero. All lights are tested. DIC shows &quot;Solstice&quot; and then the odometer reading. (I would probably get a &quot;ding ding&quot; with the door opened if I had not removed the stock stereo, which I have not replaced.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windshield wipers work. In fact, as far as I can tell, everything else works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is +12V at the starter (tested with multimeter, and since the engine turns over when shorting (welding!) the starter posts.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lost the fuel pump relay, so moved the one for the electric trunk release into the fuel pump spot. They had the same part number and looked identical so I doubt this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car has a new battery (fully charged) and a new starter (properly connected). I can turn the engine over by shorting posts on the starter but, with no fuel, of course it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point when the security light was on (which I assume was just due to the BCM connector not being properly seated), I tried the 30 minute key relearn procedure, just before I found the BCM connector issue and fixed it. I don't suppose it's possible that the car is stuck in relearn mode following a week if sitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. If anyone has any suggestions, or a place where I can find a diagnostic flowchart for this car, I would be eternally grateful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;- &#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T14:00:58.347" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T14:00:58.347" Title="2006 Solstice - car won't turn over following engine replacement" Tags="|starting|pontiac|computer|gm|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17587" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:39:46.693" Score="3" ViewCount="4900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just curious if there is such a thing as aftermarket plug-n-play ECUs that are compatible with a vehicle (have all the features the OEM ECU does) but also have some extra ones, such as maybe sharing the vehicle statistics (or all activity) via Bluetooth to a smartphone or even control some parts of the engine directly via a smartphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T23:27:04.860" Title="Are there plug-n-play ECUs?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17586" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:57:04.917" Score="3" ViewCount="2112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grey cast iron has better thermal properties -- conductivity and specific heat -- lower density, better castability, and better friction than martensitic stainless steel. Why are OEM parts made of martensitic stainless steel (AISI 4XXX series)? Are there any special required properties for a disc rotor that stainless steel has? Are drilled rotors feasible in stainless steel alone? I'm looking for ATV parts, so quick rusting is not a problem for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10827" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T20:44:50.357" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:13:22.950" Title="Why is martensitic steel used instead of grey cast iron for ATV disc brakes?" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|brake-rotor|automotive-design|material|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17575" CreationDate="2015-06-11T17:15:14.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are aftermarket ECUs which are simple plug and play they are called piggyback ECUs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They intercept the signal from the vehicle sensors and the OEM ECU and trick it to accepting false parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can be Pre ECU like mentioned above, it may trick the OEM ECU by adjusting the feedback from the O2 sensor making the ECU think engine is running rich or lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also Post ECU Piggybacks which generally not as common actually control the components of the vehicle taking away the control from the OEM ECU.&#xA;The Problem with the Post ECU is that it is quite difficult to set up and tune but the final result is MUCH more rewarding that the pre ECU piggyback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Piggyback ECUs also have a wider array of Engine Map compared to the OEM ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TO answer 2nd part of your question, as of now there are no ECUs which can send feedback to a smartphone or anything but i have seen a lot of Concepts recently of having engine parameters monitoring on smartphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is get a piggyback ECU(Quality one, there are a lot of crappy ones available) which has a built in USB port , then download a custom software for that ECU and hook it to your computer so that you can monitor the parameters on your laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, you can control the Air conditioning of your Nissan Leaf from your smartphone :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T17:15:14.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12899" CreationDate="2015-06-11T17:35:29.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my 1998 Honda CRV.  It turned out to be the idle air control valve (IACV).  I cleaned it a couple of times but the symptom returned and my check engine light came on.  I replaced it with a new one and it now runs fine.  It should be located mid-engine, fire wall side, attached to the intake manifold, held in place with two bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10808" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T17:35:29.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17576" CreationDate="2015-06-11T18:09:04.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grey cast iron possesses some traits which makes it less desirable than martensitic steel for brake disc applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron&quot;&gt;more brittle&lt;/a&gt;, which means it is easier to crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron&quot;&gt;very low impact resistance&lt;/a&gt;, making it less durable under heavy braking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martensite&quot;&gt;less hardness&lt;/a&gt; (400 Brinell vs 700 Brinell), so it wears more quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if left uncoated, it is more susceptible to oxidation, which means it is more likely to rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T18:09:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12899" CreationDate="2015-06-11T19:06:37.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A surging idle indicates a vacuum leak on the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have a leaking vacuum line (did you forget to plug something in?) or your intake gasket may not be sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Vince pointed out an hour ago, a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) could also cause this. Since it was not doing it before your engine work, my guess is the IACV is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the engine running, spray some short bursts of starter fluid around the various components. If the engine speed increases, the leak is coming from the area you just sprayed. If it does not increase, let that area dry before moving to a different area. You don't want a lot of starter fluid on your engine. If it ignites, you would be in big trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T19:06:37.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17584" CreationDate="2015-06-11T19:44:31.387" Score="9" ViewCount="19992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my car into a new mechanic today for brake issues, and they discovered that my rear brake calipers had completely seized up.  They gave me an itemized quote for parts (~$700) and labor (~$300).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my previous mechanic, I shopped around for parts on my own and brought them to him to install.  He would charge me his usual $80/hr rate for labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These new guys also charge $80/hr, but they want to charge me an additional $15/hr if I bring in my own parts.  They argue that if I get the wrong parts, or the parts I get are defective, that it will create more of a hassle for them - thus validating the extra charge.  I'd argue that I should have control over the parts they use, and where I buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a typical policy? Is there another arrangement I might be able to offer them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10829" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T19:53:52.993" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T23:59:05.353" Title="Is it typical for a shop to charge extra for labor if you bring your own parts?" Tags="|repair|service|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2015-06-11T20:57:53.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanics make money off of the parts they buy for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a small shop with 1-4 mechanics.  They like business even if it's not the most profitable.  They are about building a relationship with their customer.  If you're cool and your mechanic is cool, they'll install just about anything that's legal for their regular rate.  Keep going back to that guy for all your repairs.  They'll tell it to you straight and won't be pushing unecessary services on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a chain, they probably have a policy to extract as much money from you as possible and you bringing in your own parts makes them less money.  There's no deal to be made here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T20:57:53.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2015-06-11T21:13:00.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not normal behavior of a typical mechanic. Most mechanics/shops will still continue to charge their normal hourly rate no matter if you bring in the parts or if they get you the parts. The only difference is, they &lt;em&gt;will not warrant the parts you bring in&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look at the fine print of &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they are charging the extra $15/hr. If the reason is to warrant the items you bring in, then the charge may be equitable. I don't see any other reason for the extra charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zach is right in that they will make money from you any way they can. Most shops, whether a chain or local, &lt;em&gt;do not supply their own parts&lt;/em&gt;. They farm out and around to get the cheapest parts available. Some will have deals made with a certain parts supplier to get their parts at a discount. This is a business-to-business transaction which works well for both of them. Some shops will not mark up their parts, but others do. For instance, I had a female friend whose van was not running right. She took it to a shop and had them look at it. They quoted her a price of ~$900/parts &amp;amp; ~$1000/labor to do the repair. I did some research to figure out what was going on (which they totally missed the diagnosis, btw) and figured out I could purchase the &lt;em&gt;needed&lt;/em&gt; parts for ~$300. I double checked their price quotes on parts for what I could find them for. Every last part was two to three times more. I asked them why the difference. They said they marked up the prices to warrant the parts. I asked them why if the parts houses already provide warranties on all the parts. They had no answer for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: if a shop won't let you find your own parts, find a different shop (or learn how to do the work yourself ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T21:13:00.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12286" CreationDate="2015-06-11T21:24:32.370" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle starts but then the engine stops very soon after that, chances are that the alternator is dead as the battery without the alternator has only so much charge to sustain the motion for a brief while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T21:24:32.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17576" CreationDate="2015-06-11T22:13:22.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at this from an automobile standpoint wondering &lt;em&gt;What the heck is he talking about?? The vast majority of vehicle rotors and drums &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; made out of grey cast iron!&lt;/em&gt;, then went back and reaslized you are asking about motorcycles and ATVs. To that end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why are OEM parts made of martensitic stainless steel (AISI 4XXX series)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the use of SS over cast iron is that for the job, the SS can be made lighter, stronger, and thinner than cast iron can be. For a vehicle which weighs relatively little when compared to a car, the SS holds up great to the frictional/torsional forces created during the braking process. If you cast the grey cast iron in the same shape and size, it would not stand up to it. The main reason is, at that thickness, cast iron's brittleness would not stand up. The SS is a much better choice overall to do the job and stand up to the rigors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any special required properties for a disc rotor that stainless steel has? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we were talking about cars instead of bikes, the cast iron wins, hands down. The main thing here would be the ability to absorb the heat from the friction. Since we are talking about bikes, the SS can be made as I described above, which you could not do in a comparable size with cast iron. Since overall vehicle weight is not as large of a factor, frictional heat is not as big of a problem for SS. It will maintain its true-ness without issue, whereas you'd see warping if you had a cast iron rotor of the same size in its place. You'd have to have a much larger cast iron rotor to compete in this arena. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are drilled rotors feasible in stainless steel alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, in fact you can find drilled rotors in just about any brake rotor material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon Fiber brake rotor on the new Chevrolet Camaro Z28:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwijs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast iron brake rotor with drill holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3z4bR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Obviously these are rotors for autos, but I am showing you that SS brakes are not the only ones which can be drilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:13:22.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17575" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:27:04.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are aftermarket engine management systems on the market which take most (if not all) of the factory inputs. I don't know if I would consider it &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; plug-n-play, but one such is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haltech.com/elite-2500/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haltec Elite 2500&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof Case (IP67) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 x Fuel Injection Outputs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 x Ignition Outputs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;28 x Digital Outputs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 x Analogue Voltage Inputs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB laptop communications &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive By Wire (DBW) Throttle Control &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 x Engine Position Inputs with extensive trigger type support &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Programmable Injector Peak and Hold Currents &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OBDII Capable – set and clear diagnostics trouble codes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New “ESP” calibration software – More intuitive and easier to use than ever &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual CAN Bus communications for OEM and Haltech CAN expansion &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;User definable 5D Tuning – Tune by Gear, Cam Angle or any channel for ultimate tuning flexibility &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable Cam Control – Independently Control up to 4 camshafts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual Channel Knock Control – With FFT analysis for accurate detection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto Tune Capabilities – Short and Long term fuel, ignition &amp;amp; boost learning &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staged Fuelling – Up to four stages of injectors &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-fuel Support- Support for Petrol (Gasoline), Methanol and Ethanol &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E85 Flex Fuel Ready – With additional boost tables &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed Loop Boost Control – Multiple Modes – Tune by gear, wheel speed or time &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed Loop Idle Control – With learning for consistent idle stability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed Loop 02 Control – Dual bank control for precise tuning &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti-Lag and Launch Control – Drag and Rally modes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Data logging – Internal memory &amp;amp; external laptop logging &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi Level Engine Protection – Set limits for sensors and protect your engine &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECU comes fully enabled, no additional charges for advanced features &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big advantage of having one of these over a stock vehicle computer is the tune-ability. You don't have to purchase expensive software to tune this guy ... it all comes with the system. It is very flexible by design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other systems out there as well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/programmable-engine-management-systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AEM Performance Electronics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jegs.com/p/DFI/Accel-DFI-Thruster-EFI-Engine-Management-System/981841/10002/-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Accel EMS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/powertrain/gas/ems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delphi EMS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelairspark.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAST&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are even more ... Each do their own thing, but most of these do it very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T23:27:04.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18860" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:40:51.217" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Volvo S70 4D 117k miles.  No accidents, inherited from 2nd owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a big list of repairs to make:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ABS control unit throws 8 fault codes, can replace w/ a rebuilt unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front strut assembly and mounts blown, have to replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front lower control arm and ball joint has too much play and won't pass SI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front sway bar links are worn out, got to replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front outer CV boot leaking grease, replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver side door hinges pop, need professional spot welding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver side door group switch busted, need to replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs an alignment, obviously&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About $1300 in parts and 3rd party labor would be about $1k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a minivan and want to unload this sedan. I've got an offer as-is for $900.  I think, if repaired, I could sell it PP for $2500, though KBB value is $2100. But doing the math, sounds like the as-is offer is best: $900 profit guaranteed vs. $600-$1000 profit if self-repaired vs. $200-$0 if shop-repaired.  Also, the line between self- and shop-repaired is blurry: I can only make some of these repairs myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing any detail that should change my mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="10832" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T13:58:20.503" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T13:58:20.503" Title="To repair, or sell: that is the question" Tags="|repair|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23444" CreationDate="2015-06-12T04:14:55.347" Score="3" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a car a few months back and it's radio has been driving me crazy.&#xA;Whenever I start up particular radio stations in the morning, I can also hear another radio station in the background. As I drive along, the station I'm tuned into might suddenly fade and allow the other station to be louder, and vice versa. I also get interference when I pass the Police Headquarters, that's sort of like a blipping noise cutting out my stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other stations barely ever get static or interference from other stations, but it seems to be persistent no matter what station I'm tuned into as it happens to all stations at some point or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had any issues with a car stereo before. It could be completely unrelated, but all the cars I've ever owned have either had a Sony or Pioneer stereo, this is the first car I've owned with a Panasonic stereo. Here's a link to the model.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panasoniccaraudio.co.nz/cq-rx222.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CQ-RX222W&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1997 Nissan Pulsar (N15 chassis) (same as an Almera in the U.S.) as pictured below with the location of the power antenna.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abq3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Location of the Antenna&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:50:34.977" Title="Radio Stations overlaying and interfering" Tags="|nissan|audio|pulsar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3256" CreationDate="2015-06-12T06:51:58.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the brake pads and/or disc brake rotors have become &quot;glazed&quot;. There are many types of brake pads and rotors on the market from after market suppliers but not all are the same, each range has there own pros and cons. Typically brake pads require a particular bedding procedure as outlined by the manufacturer, but some pads such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/Products/Disc-Brake-Systems/Brake-Pads/#Tab1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TRW's Cotec range&lt;/a&gt; boast a less rigorous bedding procedure than their competitors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other brake pads may contain ceramic based compounds for better resistance to &quot;brake fade&quot; which occurs at higher temperatures when repeated braking takes place. Normally if you take your car to a workshop they will follow a stringent procedure for preventing them from squeaking afterwards such as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the old brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove excess brake dust from the remaining assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skim or replace the old rotors (skimming uses a brake lathe and turns the disc brake rotors to make the surface responsive to the new pads during bedding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the new pads in with an anti-seize compound around the sliders and where the brake pads mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray disc brake quiet on the rear of the brake pad to prevent excess vibrations and noise on the brake pads during braking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the assembly is complete with original shims or replacement shims etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed the brake pads in correctly as in the procedure mentioned by Joel H above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mechanics who changed out your brakes followed this procedure or something close to, your brakes shouldn't be squealing. Brake pads normally become glazed if the they are not bedded in correctly and the surface becomes very shiny like glass. If you want to fix it yourself, take the pads out and lightly sand them with emery paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="10834" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T08:33:49.820" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T08:33:49.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17571" CreationDate="2015-06-12T08:30:49.023" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional rev limiters work by controlling the ignition and/or fuel.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition Control&lt;/strong&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retarding the spark  (smoother)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely cutting the spark  (more aggressive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Control&lt;/strong&gt; - Amount of fuel thrown in is controlled. This is used very carefully as effects of running lean at such high RPM can be detrimental to the engine health. In fact, lot of controllers completely shy away from it for good reason.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder Control&lt;/strong&gt; - Allows for one more parameter to play with to smooth-en out the total power produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Control Strategy&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of categorizing, the above parameters are controlled to achieve the desired output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard Cut - With hard cut, the power is abruptly reduced once it reaches the SET RPM &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft Cut - power is progressively reduced as it approaches the set RPM  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above was a crude generalization while the actual strategy employed could be thought of as a fader between the above two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While revving in nuetral/clutched - There is very little rotational inertia and so as the rev's reach the SET limit soft control becomes less effective and hard-cut is initiated to the rev's within range. This causes the rev's to &lt;em&gt;bounce off the limit&lt;/em&gt; repeatedly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While in gear - as the vehicle approaches the rev-limit, the above mentioned &lt;em&gt;bounce&lt;/em&gt; is lesser. One will still &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; the limiter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For passenger cars the limiter is a lot softer and smoother at the expense of losing power.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For race cars, the all or nothing approach works well (wouldn't want to compromise power) and consequently (almost as a side-effect) works as a quick feedback that the limit is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rev- limiters are also used for launch control, flatshifting (multistage limiters) and for antilag  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Launch Control  - Engine RPM is held at a particular RPM which is optimum for launching (right balance point between RPM, torque, wheelspin etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatshifting - Allows for the driver to keep his leg floored while the limiter automatically brings the revs to optimum RPM for the shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-Lag for turbo - By using ignition retard + fuel control allows for hotter exhaust gases at the set RPM which helps reduce turbo lag (between gear-shifts and during launch). An extreme setting for the same causes backfires and the loud pops commonly heard in race cars with massive turbos.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DBW Systems&lt;/strong&gt; allow for complete control of the throttle body and makes for a more accurate and smoother control. Depending on the strategy and setting, it has the option of pre-emptively reducing the throttle response as it approaches the limit to control the offshoot. And even when it does, the ability to choke the engine allows for engine braking control. So we're not just letting the engine slow down by cutting power, we have brakes to some extent.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, in a way , the traditional system is &lt;em&gt;reactionary&lt;/em&gt; while DBW is &lt;em&gt;active&lt;/em&gt; , in some sense at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T09:19:16.843" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T09:19:16.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17594" CreationDate="2015-06-12T09:12:37.460" Score="7" ViewCount="1314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought some spare parts for my Subaru Forester XT and would like to store them the right way until I need them. Specifically, I have a turbo, injectors, exhaust and intercooler that needs to go in the garage. How would you guys handle this? I was thinking WD40, mutton cloth and black bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect them to lie around unused for around 1 to 3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:33:20.487" Title="Long term storage of parts" Tags="|maintenance|subaru|parts|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17593" CreationDate="2015-06-12T10:42:56.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in a high humidity area, I would: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the part in WD-40 (at least pieces which are made of or have exposed metal pieces).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put them into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00SDRDYFK&quot;&gt;large Zip Lock Style Vacuum Storage bag&lt;/a&gt; along with ~six &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028AG8RO&quot;&gt;oxygen absorbers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum out the storage bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place bag on the shelf and &lt;em&gt;leave it alone&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to put something around the part so any sharp edges aren't coming in contact with the plastic of the bag. The reason for WD-40 is not because of it's superior rust preventive qualities, because there are plenty of other products out there. The reason to use WD-40 is because of its &lt;em&gt;water displacement&lt;/em&gt; qualities (thus the &lt;strong&gt;WD&lt;/strong&gt; in the name). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method should keep your parts fresh for a &lt;em&gt;long time&lt;/em&gt; if left undisturbed with seals intact and bag uncompromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T10:42:56.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17597" CreationDate="2015-06-12T13:28:57.517" Score="3" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was helping my cousin with a motorcycle teardown a while back (planning for a café racer build) and was puzzled by something on his '07 Karizma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii623/zedinc/For%20the%20Forum/4ad4c8cc-fe2d-4a68-b85d-e4a3090c98ae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Karizma&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red arrow in the picture above points to a hollow plastic container with a single opening that twists into a hole on the air intake piping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm puzzled as to why Hero Honda went to the trouble of attaching this extra component to the motorcycle. It looks like the effective volume of the intake is increased as a result of this component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have any impact on the motorcycle's performance ? My hunch is it has something to do with increasing the effective pressure at the engine inlet but can't be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.063" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T15:43:28.017" Title="Why is this hollow plastic piece attached to the Karizma's air intake?" Tags="|air-intake|hero-honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15673" CreationDate="2015-06-12T14:29:36.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that the filament inside of the bulb is loose. When you rap on it, it reconnect briefly, which lights the bulb. It will continue to do this until it completely burns out. This will probably require a replacement bulb to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T14:29:36.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17595" CreationDate="2015-06-12T15:43:28.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like that piece is before the carb on that bike. It acts as a resonator, helping to damping out noises from the intake without adding restriction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of cars have the same thing in the intake. Some cars have a similar device in the exhaust after the muffler. It is often just a short piece of pipe welded into the main exhaust pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T15:43:28.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17602" CreationDate="2015-06-12T15:58:34.870" Score="2" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2298/car-sitting-for-several-months-what-should-i-do-to-keep-it-running-well&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2414/how-should-i-prevent-my-battery-going-flat-when-i-leave-my-car-alone-for-a-month&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2281/is-it-okay-to-leave-a-car-for-5-months-without-driving-it&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. But what about a bike like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hero_Honda_Splendor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hero Honda Splendor+&lt;/a&gt;? Apart from keeping the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5129/why-should-the-fuel-petcock-valve-be-turned-to-off-position-when-not-using-the&quot;&gt;fuel petcock off&lt;/a&gt;, what else should be done to ensure that the bike runs fine after two months of not using it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume removing the negative connection to the battery as done for the car, would be necessary/sufficient? The tyres should be filled with air and having at least some fuel in the fuel tank, is what I can think of. Any suggestions to correct me?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am in India, and it's the monsoon now. Although the car and bike are away from the rain, I don't think good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-use-a-trickle-charger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trickle chargers&lt;/a&gt; are available here. So looking for alternative knowledge on what can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T09:08:16.273" Title="Car and bike. How to keep it in good condition when unused for two months?" Tags="|motorcycle|battery|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-12T16:47:28.370" Score="4" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Accord 2003 car. I have been having an odd problem lately, and I'm not sure what the cause of it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally in the mornings when I go to start the car, it takes several seconds to start after turning the key. If I hold the key down, it will eventually start, but it takes sometimes up to 5 seconds of holding the key down. There is complete silence, and once the engine starts, it sounds completely normal. It never makes a sound like its trying and failing to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has only been happening bad in the morning. 8.5 hours later when I go home, it starts up after just a brief 1-2 second delay. Then again the next morning, there is a long delay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been happening a couple of weeks. The only thing it has corresponded to is the oncoming summer heat (I'm in SE Tennessee). Is this a battery problem, a starter problem, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6968" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:12:23.953" Title="Long silent delay before Honda Accord 2003 cranks" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17563" CreationDate="2015-06-12T17:47:29.273" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people put their transmission into Neutral while stopped at Traffic Lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are one of those, read on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this and let off of the clutch, the clutch engages with the engine and spins while the transmission sits still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The light turns green, and suddenly you scramble to get the vehicle in gear so you can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do you? You stomp on the clutch and shove the stick shift into 1st Gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is: The transmission parts are all sitting still and the clutch parts are still moving at the engine's idle RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could hold the clutch in for 15 seconds or so, those parts will slow down and you would be able to put the transmission in gear without any grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternative, of course, is to leave the transmission in gear and just hold the clutch in while sitting at a traffic light. Many people frown on that approach. Granted, your foot could slip off of the clutch causing the vehicle to move into the flow of traffic. So, take that alternative approach with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T17:47:29.273" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17598" CreationDate="2015-06-12T18:58:20.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a few things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the tank is completely topped off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If carbureted (I believe your's is), turn off the pet cock, start the engine, and run it out of fuel. This will ensure your carburetor is nearly (if not completely) dry, which will allow it not to build up varnish from sitting fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put fuel stabilizer in your fuel. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fuel-stabilizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sta-Bil&lt;/a&gt; in your fuel, but I don't know what you have available in India. This will ensure your fuel is fresh when you go to start it the next time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a battery tender (like a trickle charger) is not available (this would be my first choice), take the negative battery lead off the battery. I would highly suggest you attempt to get a battery tender as it will get you through the down periods much better than a trickle charger or nothing at all. IIRC, a trickle charger will continue to charge the battery at a low rate (like 2A), where as a tender will top off the battery, then only charge the battery as needed to keep it in shape for when you do need it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As long as tires will maintain air over the period, fill them up to capacity (if below) and they should be fine. If they won't, get them fixed and then do the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of months really isn't too long of time to have a bike/vehicle sit, but I don't blame you for taking precautions to ensure it's taken care of. Also, don't forget to turn your pet cock on prior to trying to start ... that makes for hot starters, worn out battery, and a frustrated rider ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T18:58:20.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17606" CreationDate="2015-06-13T10:56:07.460" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a Peugeot 307 2003 1.6cc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current milage is 97,000+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got done MOT last week and it passed .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I had a overall check from Halfords yesterday and got 3 RED points (and many AMBERs!) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAMBELT : REPLACEMENT DUE TO AGE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SHK ABSORBER REAR : NEARSIDE REAR SHOK ABSORBER LEAKING&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BALL JOINT : GAITER SPLIT NOT PREVENTING INGRESS OF DIRT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't afford all these repairs at once , so I need help from you to decide which one should address first ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T13:54:38.713" Title="Most important : CAMBELT , SHOK ABSORBER or BALL JOINT" Tags="|timing-belt|peugeot|shock-absorber|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17604" CreationDate="2015-06-13T13:54:38.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order of precedence: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ball joint boot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock absorber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. 1 Priority: I'm not sure if the Peugeot has an interference motor, but will assume it does since most vehicles these days are built as interference motors. An interference motor is one where the pistons and valve train occupy the same space inside the engine, but at different times. The cam belt and cam are what achieves this happy dance. If the cam belt breaks, you run the risk of having to replace the entire engine. Reason for number one status: &lt;strong&gt;if it breaks, it will cost a huge amount to get your car fixed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. 2 Priority: The ball joint is important. Depending on the state of the ball joint, this could be an expensive or cheap fix. If the boot is completely destroyed and you can tell there is major contamination, you'll probably need to change out the entire ball joint, which in and of itself is not overly expensive, but labor costs are going to cause the cost to go up dramatically, as well as requiring a front end alignment. On the other hand, if it's just a cracked boot which needs to be replaced, you can replace it with a new one relatively cheap. Most people would not be able to perform either of these replacements at home, so labor costs will bring up the price somewhat. I suspect if the boot had been really bad, it would have failed MOT, so would bet the ball joint is still in good shape. Reason for number two status: &lt;strong&gt;if you wait too long to get the boot replaced, it could entail replacing the entire ball joint, thus cost more over the long haul&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. 3 Priority: The shock absorber helps with vehicle handling and stopping. Since this is on the rear of the vehicle, it is not nearly as prevalent issue as it would be on the front of the vehicle. You'll find though, when replacing these, it's not nearly as expensive as you'd think. If you are at all mechanically inclined, with a set of basic hand tools, you could replace these. Replace both when you do. Replacing these becomes important as over time when all of the oil runs out and it can no longer dampen the suspension, it will wear your spring out on that corner of the vehicle, which will incur a larger cost to fix. Reason for number three status: &lt;strong&gt;non-repair over time will cause a greater cost to fix, but for right now is not an emergency.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T13:54:38.713" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T14:41:59.487" Score="1" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new (to me) 2013 Nissan Altima SV.  The car comes w/ XM installed, but I'd like to switch this to Sirius, since the two companies do not allow you to have both types of radios on one account (despite merging 5 years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've accomplished this in the past w/ a 2009 GMC Acadia.  I was able to buy a small part; about the size of a desktop hard-drive.  I then had a car-audio shop swap the parts, and have been using Sirius ever since on that vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how feasible it is to accomplish this w/ my Altima?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T14:30:04.957" Title="Switch from XM to Sirius on a 2013 Nissan Altima" Tags="|nissan|audio|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T15:28:40.277" Score="2" ViewCount="10993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Impreza 2002. Stereo Receiver died. I bought an inexpensive Boss Receiver from Amazon and also bought a Scosche Wiring Harness that fit my car.  Put it in and not getting sound from front left speaker (double checked the wiring connection).  I know it could be the speaker but prefer not to pull door panel off. I have an inexpensive radio shack multi-meter.  Can I use it to track down my problem before attacking my door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Peter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10845" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T15:59:14.327" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T22:08:59.040" Title="No Sound from one Car speaker" Tags="|subaru|audio|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2015-06-13T16:26:43.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a case of ice formation near the expansion valve. After the compressor runs for a certain period of time, the freon flow would be choked and would resume after a while when the ice has melted away. Ice formation can occur if somehow moisture got introduced into the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an experiment to pin point the problem, you can have your AC blow &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; air and see if that improves the time that the system takes to start cooling again normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10844" LastEditorUserId="10844" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T16:35:48.910" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T16:35:48.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17616" CreationDate="2015-06-13T17:32:39.887" Score="7" ViewCount="26316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2007 Buick Lucerne.  The rubber in the engine torque mount has separated into two pieces. How important is it to replace the mount?  If I do decide to replace it, is the job as straight forward as it seems?  I imagine I'd just have to remove the two bolts, slide the old one off and slide the new one on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJf9p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Mount Close-up&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3WJGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Mount Overview&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T23:31:14.273" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T19:54:16.657" Title="How important is it to replace engine torque mount? (have pic)" Tags="|buick|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17623" CreationDate="2015-06-13T20:34:39.533" Score="6" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the FSU on my BMW today to restore normal fan speeds to my HVAC blower (having just 20% fan speed in 40+ °C isn't always comfortable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the old resistor pack, curiosity got the better of me and I decided to measure the resistances across all possible pin combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results are logged in the table below. By asking this question, I'm looking to understand what happens to the final stage resistor over its lifetime that eventually makes it unfit for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pin legend&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A   B   C&#xA;o   o   o&#xA;  o   o&#xA;  1   2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measured data&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pins    Old         New&#xA;A-1     107.1 kΩ    0.634 MΩ&#xA;A-2     106.1 kΩ    23.22 kΩ&#xA;B-1       0.2 Ω       0.2 Ω&#xA;B-2     1.008 kΩ    0.614 MΩ&#xA;C-1      7.94 kΩ    1.212 MΩ&#xA;C-2      6.94 kΩ    0.601 MΩ&#xA;A-B     106.9 kΩ    0.634 MΩ&#xA;A-C     112.8 kΩ    0.607 MΩ&#xA;B-C      7.96 kΩ    1.212 MΩ&#xA;1-2     1.008 kΩ    0.611 MΩ&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:46:11.233" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T00:19:47.400" Title="How do final stage resistors fail?" Tags="|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17573" CreationDate="2015-06-13T20:36:03.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I reinstalled the engine harness and connected it back to the engine bay fuse block, I didn't properly tighten the five bolts that secure the connectors to the fuse panel. Apparently it was therefor not correctly grounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yay. Thanks everyone for the help!&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WN8Kx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;muahaha&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T20:36:03.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17608" CreationDate="2015-06-13T22:11:07.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there isn't a lot you can do without taking the door panel off, and checking the speaker's condition directly. You can however check if the speaker is getting 12 volts from your wiring harness.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ae64.com/WRX-pinout.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to what hopefully looks like your wiring harness in your Impreza. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the multimeter, make sure the cords are placed in V and COM and on DC Voltage with the pointer set to 20. Place the red cord on pin 3 from the picture, and the black cord on pin 9. This should give you a reading of 12V-13V. If this is zero, its possible you've blown a fuse when the new stereo was put in or the speaker was cranked up too high. Normally however, both speakers wouldn't be working and possibly even the stereo if this was the case, but I don't know your vehicle's setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else if it is reading 12V, you will need to pull the speaker out, it may have rusted or the terminals lost connection or even simply blown which you can test with a 9V battery by doing the pop test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="10834" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T22:08:59.040" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T22:08:59.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17610" CreationDate="2015-06-13T23:36:18.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The torque mount is fairly important. It keeps everything in place when the engine is trying to torque over from either a launch or a stop. While this one isn't &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; shot, it needs to be replaced before that happens, so as to not cause issues in other areas of the vehicle. It will eventually affect the other motor mounts (because they have to do the job the torque mount is doing right now ... pick up its slack, let's say). It also causes stress on the exhaust system due to the extra flexing going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as replacement, you are exactly right. This should be a straight remove/replace operation. As long as your other mounts are in good shape still, you shouldn't have any issues. You may want to ensure you have a long, thin bladed screwdriver to help you get it aligned during installation. Other than that, just make sure you have the same bolts in the same holes and you're golden. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Each bolt doesn't have to go into the exact hole it came out of: if you have two bolts/nuts which are exactly the same, they can be swapped. I'm just suggesting not to put the wrong size bolts in the wrong holes -- that could get ugly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T11:47:21.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T11:47:21.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-14T00:22:42.197" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my engine completely rebuilt three months ago (new gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc.) and yesterday the engine completely overheated (temperature was at the mid-line, then 10 minutes later it was maxed out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could smell something burning and when I saw the temperature gauge I pulled over immediately and saw that the car was leaking oil from the bottom (oil pan) and I couldn't tell if there was any coolant left in the system (may have boiled away during the overheating)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it towed back to the shop that did the engine rebuild and I'm waiting to hear what they say about who's responsible for this but what questions should I ask them and what might have gone wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10849" LastEditorUserId="10849" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T00:52:34.460" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T16:18:58.373" Title="Had major overheat issue but engine was rebuilt 3 months ago" Tags="|engine|oil-leak|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3130" CreationDate="2015-06-14T02:21:01.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have what I believe is the cheap repair solution for Richard Millikan.  Never mind that it's three years too late to matter for him; but it might help somebody else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to replace anything but some guts inside the mirror housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the whole mirror housing;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No concern with matching paint color etc.;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires a nearby junk yard, Torx 10 and Torx 15 tools, and some patience.&#xA;In my case, if my repair works for me (not finished yet), my outlay will be about $35.00 parts and zero labor, compared to $200-$350 parts and labor costs not estimated...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will post in a few days.  I want to complete the job, or report what I tried and what didn't work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, and Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10850" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T02:21:01.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17337" CreationDate="2015-06-14T03:19:20.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the culprit was ultimately the accident I had Christmas Eve. The &lt;strong&gt;C-Clip inside the differential&lt;/strong&gt; holding the rear-passenger-side axle shaft &lt;strong&gt;broke&lt;/strong&gt; during the accident and we hadn't known. This was what was causing the rotor to grind against the pads and caliper bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all who helped trying to find the needle in the haystack. We were just checking the brake-line theory when we noticed a shiney part of the axle-shaft sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T03:19:20.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17612" CreationDate="2015-06-14T16:28:42.570" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real point in doing a resistance measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BWM, like with most other stuff, decided to put more in there than you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have put active elements in there, that control the current through the motor based on a control input signal, this is nothing to do with a bad resistor, but with some failure in the transistor-drive somewhere inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A resistor pack would likely be designed to allow at least off and full speed as options, but with a transistor in the final current path it is much more likely to offer no more high-current flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A first hint that your measurements might not be meaningful is the fact all, except the internal ground connection between B and 1, are in the kilo-Ohm range. at 12V a single 1kOhm resistor would only deliver into a &lt;em&gt;short circuit&lt;/em&gt; a current of 12mA. And it would then only dissipate 0.144W, which requires no heat-sink at all, let alone such a huge block of metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to mention the motor will likely still want to have about 6V, so that would reduce it all to: 6V across the resistor divided by 1kOhm, is 6mA. Giving the motor only 6mA multiplied by 6V, is 36mW. If you can refresh anything more than an ant with that, I'd be amazed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you pass the 10's of Ohms in a 40A-fused motor circuit, you can stop measuring resistance, because that's not going to be the thing you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't measure anything useful with a simple multi-meter, because the control input would need to be actively controlled to turn on the internal transistor stages, which doesn't happen when you randomly measure signal pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why a transistor stage fails like this, to be honest, is bad design. What often happens when the substrates in a transistor start to overheat is that they diffuse lightly into each other. Some transistors fuse &quot;on&quot;, but most fuse to &quot;nearly no current gain&quot;, as their thin internal barrier gets merged with the upper N-layer, and the thin barrier effect gets nullified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the thing to do if you design something like this is design it for a continuous load larger than what the fuse would allow. And include some output stage protection for excessive sparking in the motor. The latter may have been what killed it, in which case: Check your motor's carbon brushes, or it might happen again soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10858" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T16:28:42.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-14T17:55:38.107" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drive at night in the rain, sometimes both my instrument panel lights and wipers go out at the same time, seemingly randomly. What would likely cause this? Could it be a problem with the battery, or just a loose wire somewhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10842" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:14:32.087" Title="Intermittent instrument panel light &amp; windshield wiper failure" Tags="|lights|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:22:58.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few other things which no one has mentioned which are pretty easy to do, or only require a cheap tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the engine side of the air filter for black oil or sludge.  Indicates too much pressure in the crankcase forcing excess oil and vapors back through the air intake. This could be caused by either a clogged PCV system ( cheap to fix ) or because of allot of blowby past the rings due to overly worn rings ( expensive to fix ).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A power balance test is really easy to do on allot of older cars, just pull the plugs one at a time and make sure the rpm's drop by the same amount on each cylinder.  If they don't, you've got a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a vacuum gauge and do &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdlNwm8OHco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a vacuum test&lt;/a&gt;.  They're cheap and it's easy to do and can show up serious problems &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like a blown head gasket and overly leaky valves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T12:04:18.513" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:04:18.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17627" CreationDate="2015-06-14T20:49:01.590" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did an oil change for my friend's car and the mechanic was trying to convince me that it is leaking oil and brake fluid. He suggested that the car needs a costly repair (~$1400).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't have a reference for the oil level before this particular oil change, I rechecked the brake fluid level and it was still at MAX level. The last time the brake fluid was changed was a year ago. The only thing that looked suspicious to me was a little bit of engine oil on the engine, but seeing oil somewhere one the engine does not necessarily indicate a leak (e.g. possibly it could have been careless oil change that resulted in spills on engine in the past). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - &lt;strong&gt;If a mechanic tries to convince you that a car is leaking something (e.g. oil, break fluid, coolant) and the particular fluid level actually had not changed over several months, is this a good indication that a car actually does not need any repair in the first place?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is 2008 BMW X3 with gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how approximately quote looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Oil Pan Gasket&#xA;1.2. Replace&#xA;1.1.1. Auto Trans (B)                 $760&#xA;1.2. Pan Gasket                       $37&#xA;2. Pan bolt set                       $28&#xA;3. Cleaner                            $16&#xA;4. Break vacuum pump unit P/L         $700 &amp;lt;-- Added later with pencil to quote&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="10859" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T21:11:00.003" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T21:42:33.773" Title="Is vehicle's fluid level monitoring the best way to detect all leaks?" Tags="|bmw|leak|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17626" CreationDate="2015-06-14T21:42:33.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of tactics you can use to detect oil leaks on engines and transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get all the oil off.  Some use a water soluble degreaser like gunk or simple green.  Whattever works and doesn't destroy the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many debates about using a power washer, I WILL use one.  If you choose to, be mindful of wiring and seals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the oil is removed and the water has evaporated through by going on a short drive use some talcom powder or similar substance and throw it onto areas of the motor you feel might be leaking.  You can use a leaf blower or compressed air to remove excess powder.  You will see remnants of the powder you use sticking to any fluids such as brake fluid or oil and determine yourself whether or not an oil pan gasket is in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been tricked by oil remnants in the past and have changed a pan gasket or two when in actuality it was a front main seal dripping down onto the pan thereby fooling me into thinking it was a pan gasket when it was not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T21:42:33.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17823" CreationDate="2015-06-15T01:40:35.900" Score="1" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently the starter motor on my VW Mk1 Golf seems to be stuttering when starting. The car starts fine and in the same amount of revolutions as always, but the starter motor sounds like it is coughing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time for a replacement starter motor? Or a battery issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T10:50:41.000" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T12:13:25.850" Title="Starter motor 'stutters' (Mk1 Golf)" Tags="|vw|starter|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17779" CreationDate="2015-06-15T06:22:19.237" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem when you depress the brake pedal it moves all the way to the floor and does not slow the car down. It's happen only when the engine is started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please any fix or help.  I really don't have much experience with this kind of thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10862" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T19:23:59.643" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T21:58:15.730" Title="Aveo 2012 brakes do not work when the engine is running" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|aveo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T08:40:06.453" Score="4" ViewCount="2081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the coolant level sensor. After a minute of driving the temperature sensor on the car starts flashing and also alerts with beeping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the coolant tank level is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature shows 120°C for a few seconds, than it returns back to normal (60-70). As the car is being started for only few moments (max. a minute), this is weird.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a3-12/coolant-level-temp-warning-light-49387/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; didn't help neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already bought &lt;strong&gt;a new temperature sensor&lt;/strong&gt;, because it was the first suspect for this issue. But without success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I've forgotten? Any suggestions/advices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOYkc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10683" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T23:57:07.370" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:03:19.247" Title="Audi A4 1.6 2000 Coolant level sensor flashing" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|audi|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T14:02:47.480" Score="3" ViewCount="10029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to read vehicle speed (velocity) data in real time for my research project. How can I achieve that? What HW and SW do I need for it? I guess it can be read from CAN bus via OBD2 interface? I need to access the data from my C++ code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have following vehicles at my disposal which I can use for the project: Skoda Octavia 1.6 MPI 55 kW 1U2 (1997), Volvo XC90 D5 2.4 Momentum (2004) and Volkswagen T5 Multivan 2.0 TDI (2014).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:41:30.477" Title="Read vehicle speed data in real time" Tags="|obd-ii|speedometer|can-bus|c++|code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T14:10:15.513" Score="6" ViewCount="12190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to read vehicle steering angle (front wheel angle) data in real time for a research project that I am involved in. How can I achieve that? What HW and SW do I need for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I can think of 2 ways of doing it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option #1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Custom measurement hardware/sensor mounted directly on steering close to a front wheel. This may be rather complicated in terms of custom HW design and fitting it to the car. An advantage will be easy sensor reading since the sensor used would have a known output data format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option #2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to read from the steering angle sensor (SAS) just on the steering wheel. I guess it can be read from CAN bus via OBD2 interface? I need to access the data from my C++ code in Linux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can purchase a used vehicle for the purposes of the project. Will someone have suggestions on vehicle makes and models which may be able to provide the SAS data? My location is the European Union. I would prefer Volkswagen Group vehicles (VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda) but that is not a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have read only vehicles with Electronic Stability Control (ESC or ESP) are equipped with an SAS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After further search I found that steering angle data is not part of standard ODB PIDs so it can only be obtained with specialized software. This means the market will most likely be fragmented somehow. However, I also found the open source &lt;a href=&quot;http://openxcplatform.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenXC platform&lt;/a&gt; by Ford, which makes steering wheel angle parameter available for some Ford vehicles. They even have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openxc/openxc-c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;C library&lt;/a&gt; for interfacing to the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T11:02:31.437" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T11:02:31.437" Title="Read steering angle data in real time" Tags="|obd-ii|steering-wheel|can-bus|electronics|esp-esc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T14:40:53.490" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am for the first time ever, in the process of installing a replacement Ultima 6 speed transmission with the same make and model on my 1994 Harley Davidson softail custom trike conversion. It has a 113 CI Ultima motor and a BDL primary belt drive.  I have the new transmission in place and when I try to install the inner primary plate it bolts to the transmission but is off alignment by almost a quarter inch on the motor side. I tried loosing the bolts on the transmission so it can move and it still won’t line up. I am looking for any suggestions you can provide. I really want to get back out on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10864" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T15:29:54.593" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:29:54.593" Title="BDL primary driver inner plate install" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:44:31.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17642" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:23:01.837" Score="6" ViewCount="32737" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a torque wrench and a regular ratchet that you'd normally use with sockets?  When should you use one vs. the other in automotive applications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T20:31:03.953" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T19:12:26.273" Title="Torque wrench vs regular ratchet" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17640" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:30:32.357" Score="8" ViewCount="48231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is bad (for the frame or the drive train) to leave my 4WD V6 Tacoma on 4 jack stands for several days while I work on the transmission.  I could certainly lower it down after taking the tranny off and raise it again to put it back on but would rather not do it if it is safe to leave it on 4 jack stands for several days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T21:30:25.817" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T19:30:07.283" Title="Leaving vehicle on 4 jack stands several days" Tags="|safety|jack|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T17:24:43.360" Score="1" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my old keys start and run fine. I had a new key cut, it works fine in the door and starts ignition fine but the engine cuts out within seconds of starting. The old keys keep it running just fine. It seems there is a cut out for some reason, is there a way to bypass this? I have a regular key cut as well as a sure grip and the engine cuts out after starting on both. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10866" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T18:23:01.417" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:55:43.007" Title="Dodge Ram 2500 gasoline won't run after key starts" Tags="|starting|dodge|ram|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17637" CreationDate="2015-06-15T17:40:12.523" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a lot of qualified mechanics leave the car on jack stands for months without any problems. It is more a question of where the car is being stored while on jack stands. In a garage where it is safe from accidentally being leaned on and possibly tipped over would be best (and out of sight from vandals/hooligans that might want to cause havoc, depending on your area). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure the car is mounted on the proper jacking points and that your jack stands are rated for the appropriate weight and you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T17:40:12.523" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2015-06-15T17:44:21.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A torque wrench only allows you to tighten a bolt to a torque spec, which you can adjust on the wrench. These torque figures are often quoted in shop manuals/specs (eg. &quot;tighten valve cover bolts to 30 ft-lbs&quot;) because many bolts were designed for a specific amount of torque to work properly. For example, if you over-tighten a bolt on a gasket, you could cause it to fail due to the extra pressure. You should use a torque wrench as specified by the shop manual for a given repair, especially if the bolt seems important - you don't really need a torque wrench for bodywork bolts etc., but you definitely need one for most bolts you'll find while taking apart an engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T17:44:21.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:11:51.360" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque wrenches&lt;/strong&gt; are used for adjusting the specific tightness of nuts and bolts. They come with an adjustable torque setting which is usually in foot pounds (english) or Newton meters (metric). In automotive applications, most nuts/bolts will have a torque setting specified in the manual that when applied will give the exact amount of pressure needed to operate smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regular ratchets&lt;/strong&gt; have no adjustable torque setting. Typically you would refer to the tightness of what you were working on as 'hand-tight'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lugs nuts on wheels for example; you would definitely want to use a torque wrench to ensure the nuts are not too loose or too tight. By using a torque wrench, you can ensure that all of the nuts are tightened with the right amount pressure, which would more than likely be imperfect when using a regular ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T19:12:26.273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T19:12:26.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:17:08.540" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;('04 Cavalier) I have a leak in the (steel) fuel return line, just where it mates with the plastic line from the tank.  I have released the latch on the 'quick' disconnect, and, with effort, I can rotate&#xA;the pipe in the disconnect.  But, so far, I haven't been able to pull it out at all.  If anyone knows a trick, I'd very much like to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question #1: assuming I can't get the pipe out of the disconnect, can those plastic lines be replaced individually, or are the integrated into the fuel pump assembly, where I'd have to replace the whole tank unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus #2: Has anyone ever cut a hole in the floor, to remove the tank unit without dropping the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus #3: The leak is squirting out pretty energetically, like it's under pressure.  This seems odd - should there be pressure in the return line?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:15:47.290" Title="Fuel line leak - can't separate disconnect" Tags="|fuel-system|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:35:57.080" Score="1" ViewCount="7323" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when you crank the engine but the transmission is not in neutral?  Are you applying torque to the transmission?  Should the vehicle always be in neutral when turning the crankshaft manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T15:33:08.863" Title="What happens when cranking vehicle in gear?" Tags="|transmission|crankcase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17637" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:26:15.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a few project cars and have left them on jack stands for long stretches of time while we were rebuilding stuff.  I'll second Tariq that if the vehicle is held up at proper jack points you should have no problems.  It's also a good point to have the vehicle somewhere secure, if only to keep curious people, pets, etc from crawling underneath and potentially getting hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10871" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:26:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:34:16.520" Score="2" ViewCount="4587" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not dying (hasn't yet) but when the car is idling or in low RPMs the car (Mazda Protege 5 2002) is fluctuating in RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the last start was rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had issues with air intake before that seemed similar (cracked intake) but this seems a little different. I don't recall the rough idling having the regular up/down like it is doing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what I should be checking first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10870" LastEditorUserId="10870" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T23:35:22.380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:18:22.093" Title="cause of Rough / fluctuating RPMs in low RPMs" Tags="|mazda|rough-idle|rpm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:50:52.220" Score="1" ViewCount="2566" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I power one 12 volt outlet (feeding a XM radio transformer) from two separate 12 volt sources on a RV (ignition and coach power). Is it feasible to use 2 diodes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jim Samack" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:11:51.597" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:11:51.597" Title="Two 12 volt power sources into one device" Tags="|electrical|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17649" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:29:32.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diodes should work, but be aware that they will drop ~0.7V or so, so you'll actually get ~11.3V instead of 12V.  If the radio is okay with that, and if you can dissipate the heat caused by the diode drop * current drawn (may be small, but must be known), then you're okay.  It won't backfeed either source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want the voltage drop, then you can use a relay like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/24fya.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a disadvantage of dropping out the load momentarily if In2 turns on while In1 is already on, but it does avoid a diode drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10721" OwnerDisplayName="AaronD" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:29:32.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17639" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:55:43.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your edification in case you want to try this. Here are the procedures for getting the vehicle to &lt;em&gt;learn&lt;/em&gt; the new key. There are some disclaimers/actions you need to pay attention to, so read the entire procedure &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; you try to do this. If your key is a completely metal key, it will not have a chip inside of it. If it looks like the image below, it probably is chipped. I completely pulled this procedure from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Dodgetalk.com forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: All of the &amp;quot;customer learn&amp;quot; procedures for programming new keys REQUIRE the vehicle to have at least two keys pre-programmed and on hand to use BEFORE programming new keys to the vehicle! IF YOU DO NOT HAVE TWO KEYS ALREADY PROGRAMMED TO THE VEHICLE YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE THE DEALER OR AN INDEPENDENT REPAIR FACILITY WITH THE FACTORY SCANTOOL(S) PROGRAM THE SECOND KEY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2002/3-2005&lt;/strong&gt; The early third gen vehicle keys/fobs look like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ryDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjz1V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicles that do not have remote keyless entry (RKE) still have a chip inside the key, this system is called the sentry key immobilizer system (SKIS). The key sends a signal to the sentry key immobilizer module (SKIM) which allows the ignition to start the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SKIM in every new vehicle is pre-programmed with 2 keys from the factory. The system allows up to 8 keys to be programmed to a single vehicle. If you have your two factory keys and would like to add more, below is the step by step instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROGRAMMING A SENTRY KEY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert one of the two programmed sentry keys into the ignition and turn it to the ON position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the ignition switch has been on ON for about 3 seconds, but no more than 15 seconds, turn the ignition OFF and remove the first key. Insert the second programmed sentry key and turn the ignition to ON for at least 3 seconds again, but no more than 15 seconds. Leave the second key in with the ignition on ON.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE KEY SWAPPING STEPS MUST BE DONE WITHIN 15 SECONDS OF EACH OTHER.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In about 10 seconds the VTSS (single red anti-theft light on the cluster) will begin to flash, indicating it has entered &amp;quot;customer learn&amp;quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Within 60 seconds of entering learn mode, turn the ignition OFF and remove the programmed key. Insert a blank sentry key and turn the ignition to ON. In about 10 seconds the VTSS light will stop flashing and stay on solid for about 3 seconds, then turn off indicating it has programmed the new key. The vehicle will now exit learn mode. Turn the key to OFF and leave the ignition off for 60 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:55:43.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17647" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:05:15.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. This valve is a small motorized gadget which helps maintain the idle in the engine. (NOTE: Not knowing what year your car is, I looked at the last year for the Protoge5, which was 2003, which does have an IAC.) You may be able to clean up the old one with some carb cleaner, which I would try first. Next, if that doesn't work, I'd try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SeaFoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. If that fails, you would next try to replace the IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:05:15.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17645" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:06:21.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual Tranny&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles have some type of safety feature to prevent people from doing this. (eg: Press the clutch all the way down before cranking, etc) If this is the case with your car, then it is identical to cranking it in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have such safety features in your car, the car will try to launch forward and the engine will stall. Same as if you would take the foot off the clutch and not give any gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Automatic Tranny&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure you cant crank(the car won't let you; you can turn the key all you want, but the car won't send any power to the starter) when your transmission is not in neutral or park. Heck, in my car I can't even take the key out if transmission is not it &quot;Park&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:06:21.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:18:41.337" Score="2" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that prolonged driving at low RPMs (AKA &quot;lugging&quot;) can cause head gaskets to blow.  Is that true and, if yes, can you provide a lowdown of the causality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T01:56:22.247" Title="Can frequent engine lugging lead to blown head gaskets?" Tags="|rpm|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17637" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:29:29.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If where you are putting the vehicle up at is level ground (driveway, for instance), there is plenty of support under the jack stands (like concrete pad), and you are putting the jack stands at secure locations under your vehicle extended the same amount (so vehicle is level), you will have no issues what-so-ever. Vehicles which are suspended like this are very solid. I've done this &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; times without worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some words of note: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have to support your vehicle off of a frame rail, use a piece of 2x4 scrap between the jack stand and the frame rail to spread the load out.  This will help prevent any damage to the frame from too much stress in a small space. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have no fear of putting your jack stand &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; under an axle (especially in the rear). The axle tube is fully capable of supporting the load. Just place the jack stand as near as possible to the spring mount area as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the front, it's a different story. I believe your truck has an independent suspension up front. You'll need to find a place which can stand up to the support. Again, using a piece of 2x4 scrap is a great way to disperse the load. Placing it near where the pivot for the lower control arm is at is a good place to look for such a point. If you can find a good perch point towards the outer part of the lower control arm (whee side) which will make it solid, this is a good place to look as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get your vehicle up on all fours, give a good tug in all directions. You want to be safe about it, so be wary of what the vehicle is doing. If you can give it a good tug and it seems solid, it probably is. If it doesn't seem solid, ensure you go back and find new mounting points or at least discover why it doesn't seem solid. You may want to place your jack stands at different locations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double check to ensure all of your jack stands are flat on the ground after getting the vehicle up in the air. You wouldn't believe how many times I've gotten one side up, then the other side, only to find the first side has tilted somewhat, leaving a gap between the landing leg and the ground. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure you give yourself enough room between the ground and the bottom of the vehicle to remove the transmission/transfer &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you start working on it. There is nothing worse than having to go back and jack it up some more while in the middle of the removal. Just not fun at all. On the other hand, you don't want it &lt;em&gt;too high&lt;/em&gt;. (Yes, you want the &lt;em&gt;Goldielocks Zone&lt;/em&gt;! ... &lt;em&gt;Just right!&lt;/em&gt;) The higher the vehicle is, the more stable it will need to be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:29:29.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17632" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:41:30.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic approaches, you can tap a speed sensor directly before it reaches the computer, or use OBD II signals (generated by the computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensors usually generate a voltage, so you have to find the wire you are interested in and then install an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Analog-to-digital_converter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;analog-to-digital converter&lt;/a&gt;. This then has to either go directly to a COM port (if your computer has one) or to a USB reader designed to accept digital signals of the type the ADC generates. One complexity of using this approach is that you have to run a wire through the engine bulkhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier is to use is the OBD II information which you can access from a plug in the cabin. Usually the OBD II plug is hidden by a panel near the center console. You need an open-interface OBDII (non-proprietary) scanner and you hook it up to the serial port of your computer (or whatever it connects to). The OBDII system works like a terminal. You send it text commands which are just alphanumeric codes and it answers with data. Step-by-step instructions how to do this can be found on various web sites and would take too much space to reproduce here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third possibility would be to get the data from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Event_data_recorder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Event Data Recorder&lt;/a&gt;. I would advise against messing with that thing, however, since it is connected to the airbag system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:41:30.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9646" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:52:14.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably the dimmer. To the left of the instrument cluster, next to the driver's side air vent, is a light dimmer slider. When they get old, they get finicky and the car thinks you have the dimmer set to &quot;0&quot; when they malfunction, so it thinks you want to turn off all the instrument lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the slider mechanism which is these 3 tiny prongs which are supposed to ride along a metal strip and they have a very gentle spring which is supposed to hold them against the strip. It is very difficult to repair this mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did is just remove it from the dash, stuff some paper towel in there to force the prongs against the contact in the max position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can replace the whole thing by buying one off eBay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jo45lm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Volvo 850 dimmer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:52:14.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T23:06:47.713" Score="1" ViewCount="13912" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I put Prestone power steering fluid into a Buick Enclave? Or does it require OEM fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10876" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:12:59.563" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:12:59.563" Title="Proper power steering fluid for Buick Enclave?" Tags="|steering|buick|enclave|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7102" CreationDate="2015-06-16T00:26:48.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake rotors do not &quot;warp&quot;; it is a myth. Surface irregularities can occur due to factors such as overheating and can be corrected by resurfacing the rotors on a lathe. It is unlikely that one or two resurfacing operations will affect thermal characteristics but the condition causing the vibration may reoccur within a short period of time. Without other unidentified causes it may be necessary to replace the rotors. If neither resurfacing nor replacement eliminate the vibration, it is obviously something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T00:26:48.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17608" CreationDate="2015-06-16T02:05:11.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the other speakers are working and you've confirmed a valid connection to the speaker in question (at the harness), then it is likely either the speaker is dead or the wiring between the harness and the speaker is interrupted somewhere. In which case the best place to use a multimeter would be at the speaker itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a simple task to remove the door panel on an Impreza. You will need to remove a couple screws on the door handle and then proceed to pull the door panel out of a series of clips along the outer edge (this is what you would do for an 02 WRX, I am sure the instructions would be similar for a base Impreza). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're up for removing the door panel&lt;/strong&gt;; once removed, you would first notice the physical appearance of the speaker. If it's cracked or ripped, it's most likely blown. To be sure, you could do a resistance test with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to the resistance setting to measure the speakers &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/impedance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;impedance&lt;/a&gt;. Usually you would see a setting of 20Ω which is in the range of what we are looking for. Hook up the probes to the positive and negative terminals of the speaker and observe the reading. If it is zero, your speaker is dead. &lt;em&gt;See a detailed tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Speaker-Impedance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting a decent reading (which varies depending on your speaker's impedance), then you know your speaker is fine and the wiring must be faulty somewhere. To be sure, change the setting on the multimeter to volts in the range of 12V (usually the 20V setting). Turn your stereo on so there is power and connect the probes to the positive and negative wires at the back of the speakers. If you are not getting a reading of ~12V, then you have narrowed the problem down to faulty wiring. &lt;em&gt;This could be fixed by re-running a new wire from the speaker to harness, which could be a PITA if you're not into it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T15:03:52.520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T15:03:52.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17637" CreationDate="2015-06-16T02:53:17.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be safe for your car, but it isn't safe for asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I did this in an apartment parking lot and with the hot sun bearing down, the jacks melted about a half inch into the tar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was only for about a day, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T02:53:17.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36653" CreationDate="2015-06-16T03:13:18.060" Score="7" ViewCount="4961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed new brake pads. They haven't been bedded in yet and I don't intend to use them for daily driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure feedback from my brake pedal progressively increases as I apply more force to it, but I'm able to push it until it feels like it is stopped by a physical barrier (with engine running and while stopped). The pedal maintains constant travel distance with constant pressure from my foot. The bite seems good. I only needed to press it down a couple inches (well before hitting the physical barrier) to get maximum braking during a few 50-10 mph tests. I've also flushed the brake fluid and it is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this amount of pedal travel normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10879" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T05:23:05.580" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T16:33:23.440" Title="Long brake pedal travel after replacing pads" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T04:14:32.703" Score="2" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a CRG hindsight bar end mirror but the CRG adapters and all the adapters I find online seem to be for hollow bars.  But the bars on my 12 Yamaha R6 just have a threaded hole for a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T13:02:24.660" Title="Mounting bar end mirrors on non-hollow bars?" Tags="|motorcycle|aftermarket-upgrade|mirrors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18672" CreationDate="2015-06-16T04:51:24.647" Score="0" ViewCount="2631" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you drive without a seatbelt, the dinging sound comes on. Where does it come from? Under the dash? behind a panel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2013 Toyota Highlander&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2003 Toyota Matrix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to stop the sound. This was just a thought that popped up in my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10881" LastEditorUserId="10881" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T02:15:07.660" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T02:14:20.403" Title="Where does the dinging sound come from?" Tags="|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T07:49:07.460" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '97 Ford F-150 truck has power going to the headlights all the time. The back window light is also suffering from the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can't be the relay because it clicks when you play with the 2 ground wires by the driver's headlight, and the lights turns off when the ground is disconnected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played with the ground while back and it turned off, then when I had to boost the vehicle the lights came back on and stayed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I changed the cab when it started doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10882" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T14:16:57.740" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:30:38.880" Title="Why are my headlights always powered on?" Tags="|ford|headlight|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17666" CreationDate="2015-06-16T08:47:52.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Anarach says, this will entirely depend on the car in question. It can be easily stopped in any car by simply wearing the seatbelt...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T08:47:52.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17692" CreationDate="2015-06-16T08:53:30.010" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Honda Jazz hadn't been driven for a few days, and on driving out of our street yesterday there was a large clang and the front right corner dropped an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the wheel lock to lock I get 3 major clangs - and looking up under the wheel arch I see that while the front left coil spring unit smoothly turns, with the top of the spring turning as you'd expect, the top of the front right is stationary until the steering wheel is turned a fair bit, and then it suddenly jerks round with a loud mechanical clang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any breaks, but I'm assuming the spring or mount must have a break somewhere. Before I take it to the garage, is there anything I may have missed in terms of diagnosis, or any causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:49:06.290" Title="Suspension broken - attempting triage" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2015-06-16T08:59:35.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers have said, the torque wrench (TW, to save typing) allows you to tighten a nut/bolt to a specified torque, either by 'clicking' off or by showing a values with a needle (old fashioned needle type ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never use a TW to &lt;em&gt;undo&lt;/em&gt; anything, as you'll damage it. I personally only use the TW for the final tightening, using a normal ratchet for everything else - wind the nut/bolt on using a ratchet until it's nearly on, then switch to the TW to finish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always store the TW unwound (i.e. set to the lowest torque setting), otherwise the spring will start to lose it's springyness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T08:59:35.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17675" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:07:23.020" Score="4" ViewCount="48016" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my refrigerant re-filled and observed that the pipe going into the compressor gets very cold on the operation of the AC. IF it is getting cold it means that there is a possible heat loss and the compressor has to do extra work in order to extract the heat gained by the refrigerant while passing from the engine area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic recommends it otherwise, but it doesn't make sense to me, should I be insulating the pipe to make my air con system more efficient? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T13:11:59.763" Title="Should I insulate the air conditioner pipe in my car?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17672" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:13:35.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes ,You should insulate the piping of any air condition not only on your car but its a general rule that the piping from the compressor be insulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not only prevent heat loss but this will also improve the life of the pipe itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will also prevent uneven coolant leaks in the future, even if it leaks with a proper insulation, the leak will be easy to locate and mend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T11:51:48.023" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T11:51:48.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17680" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:14:46.550" Score="3" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father was driving at about 30/40 kmph with ambient temperature of about 30 degree Celsius, AC turned off, when the windshield shattered. I want to know the possible causes. I have nullified all the causes I could think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some minor stone/rock hitting the screen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sudden change in ambient/internal temperatures (Like you turn on heater with snow on the outside of windshield)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I got it replaced it turned out that it was not original factory fitted, i.e. had been replaced once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was of the type which shatters immediately (tempered I assume) as opposed to the one which cracks (laminated).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To make it clear, I'm adding an image, mine broke like the glass on the left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNYTy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T00:50:05.700" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T00:50:05.700" Title="Possible cause of sudden breakage of windshield?" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17672" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:40:52.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand your concern, but you will not find a car coming from the manufacturer which has insulation around the piping. If you think about it, though, it makes sense and here are three reasons why you shouldn't worry about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cold side of the piping is &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the evaporator, headed back to the compressor. Any loss here will not make a difference in the overall performance or efficiency of your AC unit. (In the graphic, it's the pipe from the evaporator to the compressor.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wjo9k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since the system is designed &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the insulation, it may actually be detrimental to some of the working parts for it to be colder (may cause freezing of moving parts/evaporator). Engineers have taken all of this into account when designing the AC unit in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember in order for condensation to form on this pipe it only has to meet two conditions: 1) pipe has to be cooler than the dew point; 2) there has to be humidity in the air. These conditions are &lt;em&gt;very easily met&lt;/em&gt; in most situations. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle AC units are work pretty darn well (even with R134a in them) considering what they have to do and the amount and quickness of cooling they have to do. Why mess with success. If you do, you could be introducing dynamics into the system they weren't designed for and you won't being doing much to improve the efficiency (if you improve it at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T10:40:52.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:42:54.870" Score="2" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a carburetor which I want to change to an EFI. I want to know what are the possible challenges in doing so, what I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding a match of an EFI which seamlessly replaces the carburetor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixing it professionally, like maybe its not a DIY&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I am mainly doing this for fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T11:35:14.040" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:01:58.330" Title="Replacing carburator with EFI" Tags="|fuel-system|carburetor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17676" CreationDate="2015-06-16T10:57:21.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the application, there are lots of options for changing over to EFI from carburetor. Your best bet, especially if you're not a professional, is to find a system which is plug-n-play. Trying to find one which is compatible by retrofitting it from another vehicle would not only prove difficult, but would be &lt;em&gt;very frustrating&lt;/em&gt; when it comes time to tune the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to look at systems such as ones by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-systems/ez-efi-reg-self-tuning-fuel-injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAST&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/avenger_efi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Holley&lt;/a&gt; (there are others available). The reason for these has to do with self tuning. All you do is install the unit, plumb the fuel, update the fuel pump, apply power, add in the sensors, put in your engine parameters, and the unit will self evaluate and update as needed for optimal performance/fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this said, you probably won't see a huge improvement in fuel economy. &lt;em&gt;What you will see&lt;/em&gt; improvement in is driveability. The engine will run smoother in most every running situation (as long as everything is installed correctly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T10:57:21.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17676" CreationDate="2015-06-16T11:04:42.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting Carb to EFI is possible , it can be a DIY if you know what you are doing. &#xA;You can start by looking for the below basic things to get a rough idea of the work you are going to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle Body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An ECU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the sensors(MAP,O2 etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Ignition system(Recommended not mandatory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Pressure regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A whole lot of electical wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally &quot;TUNING&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it for the Fuel Economy is not a good idea since a professional conversion including labour would cost you around $1500 to $2000 that money can be spent on the fuel itself and prevent fiddling with the engine and not messing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically its not a good ROI(Return on Investment) if you want to install a EFI in your Carb vehicle unless you do a lot of hill climbing or need performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T11:04:42.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17674" CreationDate="2015-06-16T11:13:54.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass breaks because of one reason: there is more stress on it than it can handle. Somewhere on the glass, there was a stress riser which formed. Wikipedia deems a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stress riser (or stress &lt;em&gt;concentration&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/a&gt; as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A stress concentration (often called stress raisers or stress risers) is a location in an object where stress is concentrated. An object is strongest when force is evenly distributed over its area, so a reduction in area, e.g., caused by a crack, results in a localized increase in stress. A material can fail, via a propagating crack, when a concentrated stress exceeds the material's theoretical cohesive strength. The real fracture strength of a material is always lower than the theoretical value because most materials contain small cracks or contaminants (especially foreign particles) that concentrate stress. Fatigue cracks always start at stress raisers, so removing such defects increases the fatigue strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While without examining the windshield it would be hard to give the exact reason why it failed, obviously there was too much stress at &lt;em&gt;some point&lt;/em&gt; in the windshield. This could have been caused by many different things. Something which happened previously may have setup the stress riser, then certain other factors may have caused it to fail after the fact. An example might be that your Father ran over a pot-hole which jarred the frame of the vehicle in just the right direction, which tweaked the windshield just enough. Then a bug hits the windshield and &lt;em&gt;BANG&lt;/em&gt;, the windshield shatters. (I'm over exaggerating here, but you get the idea). Once that stress riser is setup, any little thing can make it happen. It could be that the glue used to set the windshield was a little thin in one area, which allowed metal from the windshield frame to make contact with the glass, thus setting up the stress point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go on with an endless array of reasons. Hopefully I've given you some idea as to the &lt;em&gt;why it &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; happen&lt;/em&gt;, though I doubt I have given you the exact reason &lt;em&gt;why it &lt;strong&gt;did&lt;/strong&gt; happen&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T11:13:54.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17637" CreationDate="2015-06-16T11:53:02.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, anectodal evidence would show that there should be no issues, but there is one caveat which I didn't see addressed in the other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With age, some vehicles can have shock absorber seals fail if they are raised with the load of the wheels still present, rendering them useless (e.g. '07 Camry). If the vehicle is known to suffer from such a failure it would be prudent to tease off the wheels with the vehicle raised slightly raised before going gung-ho with the jack and jack stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this precautionary measure is not a guarantee that ageing shock seals will not fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T11:53:02.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:18:51.620" Score="2" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to install one in my car, as it doesn't have one, what modifications do I have to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;My car is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoevolution.com/cars/suzuki-swift-sedan-1991.html#aeng_suzuki-swift-sedan-1991-13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;suzuki swift 1996&quot;&gt;Suzuki swift 1996&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would like the answer to be generic, as to what to look for if you need to install and RPM meter in a car which doesn't have one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="10884" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T13:04:33.863" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:55:10.177" Title="Installing an RPM meter" Tags="|engine|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17760" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:32:19.377" Score="5" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently acquired an old (1989) Mk1 Toyota MR2 and took a few photos of the underside rear of the vehicle. There seems to be a fair amount of rusting on the rear axle and gear box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KI3fV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gear box/exhaust assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBHFM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can this rusting be prevented from spreading if I only take the car out on dry days (it will be garaged otherwise)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the rust look significantly bad; major repair/replacement advised? (The car passed its last MOT last year)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How would you manage the rust in the meantime before professional treatment?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10885" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:37:44.013" Title="Rust underneath rear of car (Toyota Mk1 MR2)" Tags="|toyota|transmission|suspension|exhaust|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17686" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:58:14.177" Score="2" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a second hand manual BMW 320Ci yesterday, and after driving around in the backyard for 15 mins this morning, I found I have a flat battery this evening. The engine won't start and I can only hear clicking sound when I switch the key. The door glass is very hard to move when pressing the button which usually adjust it smoothly. Because I got this 2004 159K KiloMeter car not so expensive, I was very worried if the seller sent me a problematic one. I am/was a computer nerd with some DIY experience and I am really a new fish on cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car stopped ignition this evening, I found the light switch was in the side-lights instead of the &quot;0&quot; position (I think there is difference between Australian and other/European version, in this picture the OFF(12 clock position) is presented as &quot;1&quot;), maybe I made a switched the night before or in the morning, but I really couldn't remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXs7y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXs7y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: &lt;em&gt;Can this cause a flat battery?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turned it on in the morning, will it cause a flat battery in 12 hours? Why doesn't the designer set the lights off automatically when I lock the car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW the battery was replaced in 2011 and the warranty is 36 months. All time in my mention was in Sydney local time, if that causes confusion. If I miss anything please just ask. And please forgive me for being a new ignorant driver :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My neighbour confirmed that the side lights were ON at least 10:00AM in the morning. So it got lit for at least 9 hours during the day. And my seller said he didn't drive it frequently in the past month. Hope I could fix it by purchasing a battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10886" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T15:05:00.163" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T15:05:00.163" Title="BMW 320Ci (E46) flat battery, caused by light?" Tags="|battery|bmw|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:59:16.293" Score="7" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading this site (and simmilar ones) a lot, and I noticed a lot of people (mainly from USA i think) who mention 3000-6000 mile intervals for oil changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm from Europe, and driving a Korean petrol car, and my service/oil change interval is 20.000km (~12k miles). A lot of diesels have even longer ones (30kkm - 18k mi). These are the intervals specified in original, manufacturer's service booklet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are the numbers so different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10887" LastEditorUserId="4551" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T16:33:27.130" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T16:33:27.130" Title="Why are there large differences in oil-change intervals?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17684" CreationDate="2015-06-16T13:12:26.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can this [&lt;em&gt;leaving lights on overnight&lt;/em&gt;] cause a flat battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite likely that leaving the parking lights on overnight has drained the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first course of action would be to jump-start it and see if things hold out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to make sure that it is getting properly charged by the alternator (13.5 - 14 V with the engine is running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why doesn't the designer set the lights off automatically when I lock the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic lights were introduced as an option around 2003 on higher-spec BMW's. It seems that your vehicle does not have that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:12:26.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17682" CreationDate="2015-06-16T13:55:10.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tachometer typically has 4 inputs - +12v, ground, signal and light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+12v goes to switched power, you can tap into the power for the radio or cig lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ground goes to any good body ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light get tapped into the power for your dash lights (or headlights, fog, light signal to the radio, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signal typically goes to the negative side of the coil.  I would think on a 96, you would still have standard distributor/coil setup, but if you have a coil pack, I am not sure how it would work.  Possibly the cam or crank sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to run a wire through the firewall, be sure to use a grommet so the wire does not scrape against the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to mount the gauge to the vehicle some how.  You could either screw it directly to the dash or the pillar.  A generic pillar gauge pod would make it look a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:55:10.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17685" CreationDate="2015-06-16T13:59:50.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple , Ignorance on part of the people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3000-6000 mile oil change trend in the US is actually not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old days the cars were not as refined and the oils were also not that good so you needed a lot of oil changes for your engine to be healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in the modern times especially with the advent of fully Synthetic oils the frequency for oil changes have shot up to 15k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people don't realise this and end up shelling a lot of money on pointless oil changes(Especially in the US).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other reason as to why I think people do it is that it gives a chance to the mechanic to look for issues with the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One  major side effect of frequent oil changes is that the waste oil polluting the enviornment which can be easily prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is that you &quot;DO NOT&quot; need to change oil at every 5k or 6k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:59:50.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17676" CreationDate="2015-06-16T14:01:58.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the make/model/engine, you might be able to find a newer version of the engine that already had EFI installed.  If this is the case, you can search local junkyards and ebay to find a wiring harness, ECU, sensors, intake and exhaust manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:01:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17684" CreationDate="2015-06-16T14:11:08.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, leaving the parking lights on overnight will drain the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may well find that, especially if it has been run flat a few times, that the battery will hold less charge than before. A 4 year old battery may well need replacing (q.v. My own car which recently needed a new battery despite the old one being less than 3 years old...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parking lights aren't switched off automatically as they are parking lights - intended for when you park at the roadside on an unlit road, to warn other drivers of your vehicle's presence. Some cars will have a separate switch for this purpose, or another method (for example some VWs will leave a sidelight on if you switch the car off with the direction indicator switched on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:11:08.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17667" CreationDate="2015-06-16T14:27:05.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of possibilities here aside from a bad relay (which appears to have been ruled out by your tests):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the light switch has gone bad (stays permanently on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is an electrical short somewhere in the controller circuit (which the light switch controls) that is bypassing the light switch and always completing the circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:27:05.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17669" CreationDate="2015-06-16T14:49:06.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diagnosis from the garage was relatively simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corrosion had meant that the cap holding the suspension spring didn't turn (and probably hasn't for some time) so steering has been twisting the spring until it finally failed. So it snapped right at the top, and when steering the loose end catching on the rest of the spring is what causes the clang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T14:49:06.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T15:15:14.930" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with my 2009 Crown Victoria. I was driving down the highway when my Low Tire Pressure Signal came on and then went off.  The light came on  again and then I noticed that I was losing power in my call and the speedometer the rev-meter were jumping up and down. Ultimately the car would no longer move forward and when I put the car in park it makes a screeching noise.  I went out and checked the wheel (rear passenger side) and noticed fluid leaking on the tire and on the brake drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this be? thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10889" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T16:13:03.060" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T16:13:03.060" Title="2009 Crown Victoria-- Problem" Tags="|ford|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-18T15:47:22.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T15:16:22.497" Score="9" ViewCount="18898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appreciate this is a question that can't be answered in facts and figures, so I'm after a general idea. I drive a 1986 Supra, which has a modest 2.8-litre engine. I often shut the engine off while waiting at traffic lights to save fuel, but I'm wondering how much it saves when I have to crank the engine before pulling away.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Somewhere along the line, I heard that it took about 30 seconds of idling worth of fuel to start a cold engine (i.e. the same amount of fuel as the engine would burn idling for 30 seconds), and for a hot engine, that drops to around 10 seconds, so I try to shut the engine off if I'm going to be waiting for more than 10 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm wondering if this &quot;rule&quot; only applies to more modern cars, which is why I mention the age of my Supra. Obviously all EFI engines &quot;flare&quot; after being started with the key to ensure the engine catches; if more sophisticated fuel injection systems have finer control over the extra fuel used during the flare, they might use less fuel to start.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The perfect situation is waiting facing downhill where I can let the car roll, then bump-start it using its own momentum instead of the electric starter (since it doesn't flare), but those are few and far between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T16:27:03.487" Title="How much fuel does it take to start an engine?" Tags="|engine|starting|fuel-consumption|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6276" CreationDate="2015-06-16T15:48:06.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manual transmission BOXES last much longer than automatics.  The clutches, however, vary with the driver.  If the driver is good, then the manual is just as good as the automatic.  If not, then the automatic's clutches will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true because there is at least one clutch for each gear in an automatic, and you can't replace them without rebuilding the entire transmission.  You also can't normally operate the transmission if even one of them is unserviceable...they will cause the others to fail.  Cost of rebuilding is $1000-$2500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual has one large clutch. Replacing it requires temporarily removing the entire transmission.  But good manual transmission drivers commonly have clutches that run over 100,000 miles (or even many hundreds of thousands).  Cost of replacing a clutch is $450-$600.  The clutch itself only costs $100-$150.  The rest is labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to make an auto transmission last longer is to keep the fluid cooler.  For most systems this involves a separate transmission cooler unit, possibly a cooling fan, and one of various types of transmission temperature sensor and gauge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  It is more expensive to maintain an automatic because it will eventually require fluid and filter changes which may not be within the capability of a Do-It-Yourself-er.  The automatic will also be less fuel efficient in otherwise identical vehicles, by the very nature of the automatic's fluid coupling with the engine through the torque converter versus the manual transmission's physical coupling through the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should note that Automatic transmission fluid change may not be required for the first 100K miles in some models.  Materials in models that can be changed by a DIY-er usually cost $30-60 for fluid and about $20 for filter and gasket.   For a shop to do it usually costs from $100-$300 (or even more) depending on the transmission.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is rare for an automatic to go much beyond 150K miles or so without a rebuild...because of the accumulated effects of heat on clutch material, soft parts, and normal wear on springs that most manuals don't have.  The way to extend that time is by controlling transmission temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your friend is right, if we are talking about a driver who does not drive in a way that burns out clutches, and if he is going to keep the vehicle for a long time.  Otherwise...it depends on how many clutches he burns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you might be right, if we are talking about stop-and-go traffic in an auto with a great transmission cooling system, or if you only intend to keep the vehicle for 30K or so miles as most people do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T15:48:06.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17694" CreationDate="2015-06-16T18:42:27.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your driving is consistent, you could test it out by measuring your gas mileage, with shutting your vehicle off at lights, and not shutting it off.  You would want to average at least 3 tanks of each to make sure there aren't any weird outliers (stuck in traffic, muggy weather).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an exact answer for your vehicle, you would need some way to measure the amount of fuel passed into the engine.  If you have datalogging access to your ECU, you might be able to calculate fuel consumption based off of injector pulses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T18:42:27.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17813" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:24:06.687" Score="2" ViewCount="5894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering it for my car, as I did an emergency stop today and left a 20m skid mark along the road, as well as attracting a load of attention from pedestrians from the skidding noise! Also the safety aspects are important too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Model: Vauxhall/Opel Agila&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Year: 2003&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Engine: 1.2 (Z12XE)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram of the system. It doesn't look complicated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78cPI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABS System Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/parts/1/1/393/4325/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I have a parts catalogue too for the brakes&lt;/a&gt;. I think I need: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hydraulic Unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Vacuum Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Several Gaskets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 wheel speed sensors (the front right one is used to read speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Brackets for sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 pickups for the rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The ECU for ABS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bulb for ABS light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;New rear drums for ABS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;More gaskets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;New master cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/part/1/1/393/4325/6699/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These Pipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/part/1/1/393/4325/6700/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More Pipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, what parts would I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long would it take to install? (i.e several hours etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools would be handy to have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be an expensive job? What is a rough estimation (not including labour)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a difficult and complicated job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T20:34:21.660" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T08:42:37.833" Title="Is it complicated to retrofit ABS?" Tags="|abs|retrofit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17701" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:42:03.123" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the part shown in the picture bellow (i'm not affiliated in any way with ahparts.com, i'm just borrowing their picture) in my car; However, I don't know the name of it. Can somebody tell me the name of this part? The vehicle's make and model is Honda Civic 2004. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2Ag5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part to identify&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10898" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T10:14:06.230" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:14:06.230" Title="Identify a piece in the air intake assembly" Tags="|honda|civic|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17700" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:44:29.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the air intake resonator housing. Looks like the image is a still from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/hZKqUao6re8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T20:51:06.367" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T20:51:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T02:26:11.057" Score="2" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a manual 02 Chevy Cavalier with 147000 miles 2.2L. I have been noticing that when I fully step on the gas I get zero acceleration. It gets even worse when I'm in either 4th or 5th gear after 2500 RPM it will just start chugging along and I will even start to lose rpm and mph. I can't figure out what this could be. &#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10902" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T10:06:25.167" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:28:29.000" Title="Acceleration and engine issues" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|cavalier|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T07:33:36.250" Score="4" ViewCount="3412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my '12 Yamaha R6 completely apart when I repainted it.  When I put it back together I didn't realize but I'd forgotten a washer on the swingarm axle which was causing some movement of the swingarm, I've since corrected that error but road the motorcycle for about a week before fixing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time I fixed that I replaced the chain and front and rear sprockets.  But now I notice if I spin the rear wheel, there is a very subtle wobble.  I can only tell because if I watch the chain when I spin the wheel I can see the chain moving in a slight wobble pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried that perhaps the week that I rode the motorcycle with the missing swing arm axle washer may have caused the axle to be bent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I repainted the motorcycle, I had the rims powder coated. Could it maybe be if the rims were not balanced well when I had them put back together?  I had to take them to a shop to have the rubber and bar rings removed before I gave them to the powder coater.  I also had the shop put them back together when it was done but I don't know if they balanced them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or what else could it be be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T19:34:19.637" Title="Rear wheel wobble" Tags="|motorcycle|troubleshooting|wheels|axle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17698" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:16:01.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was quoted the equivalent of about 1000 GBP to retrofit it to my old Corsa B. I assume that includes labour AND parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things considered, it would probably be cheaper to fit larger (ergo wider) rims with quality tyres. That doesn't have to cost more than say 350 pounds and will improve your driving and braking performance considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:16:01.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17708" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17709" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" Score="0" Body="SEAT - a Spanish automaker, part of the VW group - for questions about seats, use the 'seat' tag" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:32:49.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17710" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:33:20.553" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:33:20.553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:33:20.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17711" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:33:20.553" Score="0" Body="For any questions about the seats fitted to a car - for SEAT cars, use the seat-cars tag" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:39:07.107" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:39:07.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17712" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:41:28.620" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:41:28.620" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:41:28.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17713" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:41:28.620" Score="0" Body="Typically an electric motor used to turn an internal combustion engine to begin the combustion process." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T16:08:59.037" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:08:59.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17714" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17715" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" Score="0" Body="Questions about headlights, including main and dipped beams, dim-dip systems, etc" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:42:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17716" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:43:51.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:43:51.963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:43:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17717" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:43:51.963" Score="0" Body="Typically a hydraulic pump used to multiply force that is inputted through a vehicle's steering wheel by the operator of the vehicle. Newer vehicles can possibly utilize electric motors to power the process." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T22:43:18.897" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:43:18.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17718" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17719" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" Score="0" Body="Questions about the steering system of a vehicle, including the wheel, column, rack, and linkages. For power steering specific questions, use the 'power-steering' tag" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:45:03.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17720" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17721" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" Score="0" Body="Questions about identifying, locating and repairing oil leaks from an engine, gearbox or differential" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:46:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17722" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17723" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" Score="0" Body="Questions about identifying a part, usually to enable a replacement to be sourced. Questions asking for shopping assistance are off-topic here" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:47:09.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17724" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:48:32.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An image of a Suzuki logo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xnxoa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xnxoa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:26:09.840" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:26:09.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17725" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:48:32.873" Score="0" Body="A Japanese car and motorbike manufacturer, noted for small, nimble cars like the swift, and bikes like the GSXR" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:48:32.873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:48:32.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17726" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:49:13.697" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:49:13.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:49:13.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17727" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:49:13.697" Score="0" Body="An electronic device that monitors a particular parameter and provides data to be consumed by other systems to adjust and/or monitor vehicle systems. Examples include: mass air flow (MAF) sensors, oil pressure switches and transducers, ABS wheel speed sensors, outside air temperature (OAT) sensors." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:32:05.257" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:32:05.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17728" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17729" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" Score="0" Body="Questions about paintwork, including repairing damage, preparation and care for existing paintwork" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:50:10.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17730" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17731" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" Score="0" Body="Questions about troubleshooting and solving rough idle problems" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T08:50:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17732" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:01:26.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Timing Belt Image&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyJr5.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyJr5.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T19:38:22.597" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T19:38:22.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17733" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:01:26.363" Score="0" Body="A belt used in overhead cam internal combustion engines to the keep the camshaft and crankshaft synchronized.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;This tag is not to be used for timing-chain related problems." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:19:08.500" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:19:08.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17734" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17735" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" Score="0" Body="Korean carmaker, rapidly gaining in popularity due to their long warranties" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:02:04.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17736" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17737" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" Score="0" Body="Japanese carmaker, known for the Lancer and Evolution models" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:02:33.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17738" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17739" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" Score="0" Body="Questions about car radios, including replacement, wiring, fitting and diagnostics" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:03:02.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17740" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:04:05.407" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:04:05.407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:04:05.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17741" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:04:05.407" Score="0" Body="A security device which requires a physical or digital key to unlock the device." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T12:04:59.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T12:04:59.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17742" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17743" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" Score="0" Body="Questions about windscreen/windshield wipers, their motors, linkages and wiring" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:05:29.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17744" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17745" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" Score="0" Body="Questions about troubleshooting and repairing power (electric) window systems" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:06:11.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17746" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17747" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" Score="0" Body="Questions trying to identify the source of a strange sound coming from part of a vehicle. Best accompanied with a video, to allow answerers to hear the sound." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:07:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17748" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:08:55.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter is the season that directly follows autumn and directly precedes spring.  It is the coldest season of the year; in the Northern Hemisphere, it usually peaks around January or February, a month or two after the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_solstice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;winter solstice&lt;/a&gt;; in the Souther Hemisphere, it usually peaks around July or August, a month or two after their winter solstice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions tagged winter have to do with vehicle maintenance that is particular to winter.  They usually have something to do with issues caused by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;snow&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ice&lt;/a&gt; build-ups or a difference in automobile performance caused by the cold temperatures that are associated with winter, particularly in Northern areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T19:54:13.360" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T19:54:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17749" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:08:55.403" Score="0" Body="Questions and discussions about preparing a vehicle for winter, either stored or in use. Appropriate tags should be used with this according to the part being discussed (e.g. tyres)" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:08:55.403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:08:55.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17750" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17751" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" Score="0" Body="UK carmaker, part of the GM group. Known for models such as the Astra, Corsa and Vectra, which are often branded as Opel, Holden etc elsewhere in the world" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:10:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17752" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:12:10.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A head gasket is a piece of material which is located between the head and the block inside an engine. It is usually made of a material which is softer than the head and block to allow for sealing of imperfections between the two mating surfaces. It also seals ports which transfer oil or coolant between the two parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of a typical head gasket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgmUC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgmUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head gasket has several jobs to perform:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seals the combustion chamber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps the oil in the oil and the water in the water, and both out of the combustion chamber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows for movement of the head/block surfaces to ensure proper sealing while the engine is running. This is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; important if the engine block is made of one material (iron) and the head is made of another (aluminum), as the two metals expand and contract at different rates during the heating/cooling cycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, the head gasket can be made of many different materials. There are several different types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) - As the name implies, it's made of multiple layers of steel. Since the layers are thin, they will deform under the tight load of head as it's clamped to the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pure Copper - Usually has a ring embedded within it at the cylinders to enclose the cylinder pressures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composite - Older tech. Usually made of graphite and/or asbestos. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elastomeric – utilized a steel core plate with molded in place silicone rubber beads to seal oil and coolant passages. The bores were sealed by rolled steel fire rings in a more conventional manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T22:56:57.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:56:57.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17753" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:12:10.087" Score="0" Body="A type of gasket used between the cylinder head and engine block to seal the combustion chambers and cylinders, oil galley's and coolant galley's." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:04:08.100" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:04:08.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17754" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17755" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" Score="0" Body="Questions about the turn signals, indicators or direction indicators fitted to a vehicle. Common issues include diagnosing and fixing poor earth connections, replacing broken lenses, etc" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:13:32.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17757" CreationDate="2015-06-17T09:53:22.080" Score="6" ViewCount="15200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a floor jack and a jack stand set and would like to know about their proper usage. I noticed some people use rubber pads for their floor jack and jack stand contact areas - some of them are bought, some make them from hockey pucks, some use wooden blocks (I think I've heard of simply using a towel instead of rubber as well). I assume this is done to prevent damage to the underside of the vehicle or prevent slippage. However other people seem to not use anything and just jack the car up metal to metal and place it on bare jack stands. So which one is the way to go, are pads worth purchasing/making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW2cx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Is this necessary?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:58:17.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T10:05:45.540" Title="Are floor jack and jack stand pads necessary?" Tags="|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17756" CreationDate="2015-06-17T10:03:32.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It partly depends on the car you are using them with - in the photo you've added, the pad on the stand has a slot in - so I'd guess it's being used with a car that has a lip on the sill - that lip would sit in the slot and the top of the pad would be against the sill of the car - thus avoiding damaging the lip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to make sure the car is secure - once jacked up, you should not be able to move the car by shaking it. If you do use anything on top the stand, make sure it is something solid, that won't crush or crumble under the weight. It is also important to make sure the bottom of the stand is secure, and can't move or slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've never used anything, just put the car straight on the stands, metal-to-metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T10:03:32.220" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17756" CreationDate="2015-06-17T10:05:45.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is most readily left up to user preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me, it depends on what I'm asking the jack stand to do. The rubber pad is there to protect the underside of the vehicle. As you can tell with the jack stand you have shown on the left, the metal top alone concentrates a lot of weight in a small area. The rubber topped one spreads this out some. This gives some level of protection. Seeing as how it is rubber (even if hard rubber), I wonder how long it is going to last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I utilize a scrap piece of 2x4 (or 4x4 if I need further clearance) between the jack stand and the car frame (or wherever I'm placing the jack stand as a mounting point) so as to spread the weight concentration over a larger area. If I'm using a mounting point which is cast or solid (like the rear axle on my truck), I place it directly on the jack stand. This gives the most solid use of the stands for my purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T10:05:45.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T11:22:59.743" Score="1" ViewCount="4296" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I exceed 60mph I hear a hissing sound from the passenger side window as if you have havent closed the window propely, I have also installed window vents(see image below) for that sake, and have the windshield replaced (not because of this, but it was &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17674/possible-cause-of-sudden-breakage-of-windsheild&quot;&gt;broken&lt;/a&gt; accidentally) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still this sound doesn't seem to go, should I get the door rubber replaced? where could the air be slipping through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: When I slide my hand along the window I cant feel any air coming in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drhQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T14:01:37.843" Title="Annoying hissing sound from passenger side window" Tags="|window|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2015-06-17T13:37:44.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience as a LR Defender owner (known for chassis rusting):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rust, once there, can spread. It will not go away. So if you just take it out on sunny days you will not be making it get any better. Sometime or other you will need to get to grips with this rust problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From what can be seen in the pictures, the muffler seems OK. That's a good start, since this part can be costly for some makes of car, specifically those that weren't produced on a very large scale such as yours. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other hand, some of the suspension struts seems in a pretty bad way. At the very least, you will have a bad day whenever you will need to take a brake pad off - or, even worse, renew a gaiter on the transmission. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had my truck over to a paint shop to get the transmission scraped and repainted (with black chassis paint). This didn't cost more than $300 equivalent, so I guess will be a good investment to preserve the vehicle. They had the skills, tools and products needed to do a professional job, I didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you intend to keep the car for a short period of time, I would go ahead and have it done professionaly since the first thing a potential buyer will do will be to have a look at the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional note: was this rust caused by road salt, by any chance? If so, take a close look at any rubber parts (bushes, gaiters) underneath, they can get dry and split due to the action of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:37:44.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17759" CreationDate="2015-06-17T13:47:14.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like it's the door rubber not sealing properly. On some cars, this is known for getting compressed, and so not pressing fully against the door - sometimes you can resolve this by adjusting the seal or inserting something into the void behind it to push it back out. (I was just watching a video on YouTube for how to do this on my own car...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What car is it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:47:14.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17705" CreationDate="2015-06-17T13:57:57.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are Various Reasons as to why the car might not accelerate as expected , some of the most common faults for old vehicles are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Faulty Timing Belt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the most common issues for old cars which causes improper or bad acceleration.Check if your timing belt is good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem with O2 sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sensor analyse the emissions which in turn affect the Air-Fuel mixture going into the engine, if this sensor goes bad then your ECU might think you are either running lean or rich and affect the acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clogged up Air filter/Problem with Fuel filter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car cant breath or consume fuel then it will not accelerate.Also as &quot;rpmerf&quot; says check if the exhaust for possible cats blocking the system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission Issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the above work properly and car still does not accelerate properly then you need to check if your clutch is fine and its engaging properly and not slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a Side not check the Fuel pump for any possible issue , I had one such problem on an old ford not sure if its frequent.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:57:57.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17759" CreationDate="2015-06-17T14:01:37.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced noise/air coming into the car from where the door handles are on the inside.  It was exceptionally pronounced in an old Saturn SL2.  You could feel cold air blowing in from outside.  I have also experienced just the noise in a 98 Monte Carlo and other cars I've ridden in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the noise is coming from the top of the window?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be coming from between the door and the &quot;roof&quot;.  Check your weatherstripping around your door.  If it is this, it would explain why your window vents haven't helped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your weatherstripping is good, your car could just have a weird gap around your door that is causing noise.  As a last resort, I would adjust the position of the door by loosening the hinge bolts, moving it a &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; bit, and retightening.  This helped with a similar issue on a 98 Dodge Dakota after the door got caught by a very strong wind gust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T14:01:37.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12731" CreationDate="2015-06-17T14:31:31.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your specific link says &lt;strong&gt;Inlet: 2&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; (which is one dimension you look for) and it includes &lt;strong&gt;Universal Fitting kit (50cm Flexi pipe, Reducer, Clamp and Strap)&lt;/strong&gt;.  This means you &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; wouldn't need to weld anything.  It also says it fits your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General Advice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for inlet diameter, outlet diameter, dimensions of muffler, and position of inlet and outlet ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inlet diameter&lt;/strong&gt; is the size of the pipe nub on the muffler.  The existing pipe under the car should already be &lt;em&gt;expanded&lt;/em&gt; to fit over this nub.  This expansion is usually just a hair over the required diameter size and ~5&quot; deep.  An &lt;em&gt;exhaust clamp&lt;/em&gt; clamps around the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outlet diameter&lt;/strong&gt; only applies when the muffler is more hidden under the vehicle and a tail pipe (separate piece) is used to route the exhaust out the back.  The same type of &lt;em&gt;expanding&lt;/em&gt; and bolting together apply here.  The tool to expand this is quite simply called a &lt;em&gt;tail pipe expander&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensions&lt;/strong&gt; are the space available under your vehicle.  You can start by measuring the existing muffler and seeing if you have free space in any direction.  Leave 1&quot; of clearance from everything around it.  Mufflers get very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the muffler is not specifically designed for your car, you will need to fabricate and weld some type of hanger bracket onto the muffler.  That sounds complicated, but is literally: bend 1/2&quot; thick rod in weird way, weld it to a strong point on the muffler.  Some vehicles and mufflers are designed to hold the muffler with a long band of metal clamped around the outside of the muffler.  This is the much simpler method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always buy a replacement muffler clamp.&lt;/strong&gt;  Your kit includes one, but it should be noted.  There is a very high likelihood that you will destroy any and all bolts that are attached to your exhaust when you mess with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your buying a muffler and tailpipe separately, you need to buy a muffler clamp for that too.  Your link is for a muffler with an integrated tail pipe, but not all mufflers are like that so sometimes you might want to buy a new tailpipe also (for looks or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; also want to purchase new rubber exhaust hangers.  They can break (go missing) sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T15:04:15.260" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:04:15.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:04:06.043" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what happens when the disc brake lever is deeply pressed when wheel is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it cause any damage? If yes then what should be the repair and how much it may cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: It is a motor bike. The wheel is placed back in place. The problem now is the disc pads are brushing against the rotor causing more friction and restricting the free wheel motion. What could be the possible reason for this behavior. Is there any chance of air getting into the braking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10906" LastEditorUserId="10906" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T16:34:14.640" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T16:34:14.640" Title="deep pressing of disc brake lever when whee not in position" Tags="|repair|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17776" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:30:00.377" Score="4" ViewCount="34462" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing things like setting TDC or just random testing (of the timing chain/belt, for example), does it matter whether the crankshaft is rotated clockwise or counterclockwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T18:51:19.683" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T18:44:13.283" Title="Does it matter which side to turn crankshaft?" Tags="|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17775" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:43:57.327" Score="3" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting run off the road a few weeks ago, my car suffered a cracked front bumper, and received a complementary boot-shaped, softball-sized dent above the driver's wheel. So, I called the insurance company, who sent me to a Caliber Collision location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got the car back, I noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They installed the wrong bumper. My car is equipped with a sport suspension package, which includes, among other things, a different front bumper cover (spoiler, different shaped vents, etc.). The car has all the marks of that package, including orange stitching on the wheel, misc. body trim components and, of course, different shocks. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They installed the wrong bumper &lt;em&gt;incorrectly&lt;/em&gt;. There is now a gap of about 0.75&quot; between the bumper and driver's headlight. The rep who went over the car with me said that they had to use aftermarket parts for the repairs, and couldn't get it to fit. (This may have something to do with them installing the wrong bumper.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The paint is already flaking on the edge of the bumper closest to the driver's door. (I picked up the car less than 24 hours ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body shop has said that they can't have installed the wrong bumper because they &quot;Go by the VIN.&quot; While it is not inconceivable that the previous owner swapped the bumper (he is a good friend of mine, and not the type to modify a car in any way), I doubt that the steering wheel, seat covers and suspension would also have been changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What recourse do I have since the shop seems unwilling to correct their shoddy work? I'm not having much luck going through my insurance company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to look at the car (VIN, etc.) and tell what option package(s) it came with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T18:30:27.740" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T18:30:27.740" Title="2006 G35 - Body shop installed wrong front bumper" Tags="|repair|body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17769" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:07:42.153" Score="8" ViewCount="11954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0406-cylinder-leakdown-tester/&quot;&gt;cylinder leak down&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/&quot;&gt;compression tests&lt;/a&gt; are used to test for cylinder head, cracks, warps, and gasket leaks.  I understand &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/gentech47.html&quot;&gt;the difference&lt;/a&gt; between how each works:  compression uses engine compression and leak-down uses an external air supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:  Are there differences in the results and what each of the two are testing?  Are they used for different kinds of test and is one more appropriate than the other in some scenarios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:19:00.130" Title="Cylinder Leak-down vs Compression Test" Tags="|engine|testing|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17768" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:19:00.130" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compression test is more to test if there is a problem.  If your compression is low, it could be a number of different issues.  You can test the rings by adding oil to the cylinder and see if the compression is higher.  Other than rings it can be difficult to determine the source of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A leakdown test will tell you where the problem is.  By watching and listening with a stethoscope, you can determine if the leak is a stuck valve, or a blown head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a compression tests a moving engine, including opening and closing the valves.  This can be useful if there is a cam/rocker issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:19:00.130" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17767" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:59:44.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can search for parts by VIN on Infiniti's &lt;a href=&quot;http://parts.infinitiusa.com/nissanparts/?action=replacement&amp;amp;siteid=15&amp;amp;jointvehid=&amp;amp;year=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official parts site.&lt;/a&gt;  I don't have an Infiniti VIN so I can't tell you what the search results look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your insurance company is your best bet for recourse and anything more detailed than that will involve legal issue which are not on topic for this website. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you feel like calling them out, you can post negative reviews online in places that will be much more effective than your scolding here.  Be as cool headed as you can in your reviews so people will trust your judgement more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:59:44.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17672" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:10:04.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to know if you want to put insulation on the pipeing, you need to understand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) the working of the AC (as Paluster2 explained)&#xA;b) need to know which pipe you are talking about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you are talking about the return pipe from the evaporator to the compressor, because this is the pipe usually left uncovered or un-insulated as you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working of AC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the picture in mind posted by Paluster2, the compressor has to heat the gas anyway, with high pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say the compressor heats the gas to 250 F and your ambient temperature is 100 F so if you dont put an insulation the gas enters at 100 degree and leaves at  250. With insulation it will enter at, lets say 60 to 80 degree and leave at 250 degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as mentioned already engineers have catered for this and it doesnt help insulating your reverse pipe AT ALL!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10907" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:10:04.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17774" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:13:00.947" Score="2" ViewCount="3813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned that warped (uneven) cylinder head surface that goes against the engine block can be remedied by taking to a machine shop to get it resurfaced, basically to make it flush all the way so that it sits tight against the gasket in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I was curious about is, if they shave a couple thousands of an inch from the cylinder head height, can that cause the valves to not close all the way because they are designed to be closed at the factory setting?  If the heads height is less, the equally sized valve will have a leak in the otherwise closed position in the amount that they shaved off when resurfacing.  Or is that insignificant and withing an allowable margin of error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:29:39.657" Title="Can machine resurfacing of cylinder heads cause valve malfunction?" Tags="|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17772" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:29:39.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The valves sit recessed inside the combustion chamber. When you machine the head, the combustion chamber becomes smaller (has less of a depression), but this does not do anything to the valves or valve seats where the valve resides. Look at this image and you can see what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5B6CY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image of n dual overhead cam (DOHC) head. At the bottom, you can see the flat area. This is what gets machined. The valves are a good distance (in machining terms) away from the head surface and don't get touched during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:29:39.657" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17767" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:48:18.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't accept &quot;no&quot; for an answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company you are dealing with has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://calibercollision.com/services/lifetime-warranty/&quot;&gt;lifetime warranty&lt;/a&gt; on their repairs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because Caliber places such importance on the high quality of our materials and workmanship, we are confident in our repairs. That’s why we back all of our repair work with a written lifetime warranty. If there’s ever something in relation to your repair that needs to be corrected, you can bring your vehicle to any one of our convenient locations for a quick fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also implies to satisfaction as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take them to task. Don't accept the repair as is. If you are talking to the service manager, take it to the manager of the store. This shop is advertised as a Nissan/Infinity Certified Collision Repair Network shop, which means they should have known the difference in your car and repair it accordingly. What they are trying to do is attempting to get you to accept their mistake so as to save themselves money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the manager doesn't want to make it right, start a campaign against them using any/all social media available, including Yelp/Google which they ask you to respond on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, go back to the insurance company you dealt with telling them you are not happy with the repair, telling them nicely the shop is trying to screw you over. The shop &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; respond to the insurance company due to the fact they stand the chance of losing business from the insurance company, which is a huge chunk of their business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, take it to your insurance company, especially if you have full coverage insurance on the car. When you tell them what is going on, they will contact either the other insurance company and/or the repair shop (for the same reasons as above). Your insurance company does not want to insure a &quot;lesser&quot; car than what they started with. Most companies will help you get satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, have a lawyer write a letter to the repair company telling them litigation is incoming if they &lt;em&gt;fail to repair&lt;/em&gt; (haha, using an Army term there, lol) what they were paid to repair and to do it right this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely, you won't need to follow this entire process. Somewhere along the line, they will agree to finish the repair correctly. Hopefully it will happen sooner rather than later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:48:18.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17766" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:54:59.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardly ever. Most turning should be done clockwise. If you need to rotate it back a few degrees to get it to the specific TDC point, it's not an issue. This will not cause any damage to your engine. If using the main bolt in the end of the crankshaft, you do run the risk of it loosening when turning it CCW ... but that isn't a big deal either. Just tighten it back up by cranking it back over CW, then get the crank back to where you want it to be. Usually if done easily (no sudden jerks), the bolt in the crankshaft will not loosen and is a good place to rotate the engine from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:54:59.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17765" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:56:14.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; the wheel/tire, or are you suggesting removing any part of the braking system as well? If just the wheel/tire, there is no worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:56:14.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T21:42:41.297" Score="3" ViewCount="7199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my valve covers off on my 2007 Tacoma V6, while digging deeper to look into a possible head gasket issue, and noticed that one of them had a nut missing that went on an upright flange threaded stud (sort of like a flange integrated screw) and was therefore most likely leaking slightly.  The cover has about 10 bolts and two of those flange studs (I can't figure out why not use all bolts, maybe to keep the cover still in place so the gasket doesn't shift when servicing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently had some engine overheating but I know my cooling system works since I serviced it (I know that coolant is flowing fine, water pump and thermostat are working etc).  I was wondering if the valve cover leak could have somehow, even indirectly, contributed to the overheating.  My intake manifold valves are coated in carbon blowby, which is not directly connected to the cylinder heads but I'm not sure if it could be a side effect.  I know that stuff is coming from the PCV and will use Seafoam to clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is:  what are possible consequences of valve covers leaking and could it have somehow caused engine to overheat and break head gaskets.  It might also be worthwhile to mention that the truck never overheats in (sub)urban driving at lower speeds, only after about 30 min on the highway driving 70 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T00:44:54.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:17:10.147" Title="Consequences of leaking valve covers" Tags="|engine|toyota|overheating|valve-cover|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17630" CreationDate="2015-06-17T21:58:15.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low brake pedal and poor brake performance could be the result of any one of the following:&#xA;  Air in the brake lines;&#xA;  Low brake fluid level;&#xA;  A leak in the brake lines or slave cylinders;&#xA;  Defective master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it is more pronounced when the engine is running is because of the power assist provided by the brake booster, but most likely you would be able to push the pedal to the floor with the engine off too if you used enough force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you stated in your original post that you 'don't have much experience with this kind of thing' I strongly suggest that you seek the advice of a professional mechanic or a trusted friend who is very good with cars. A car's braking system is not something you want to take chances with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10909" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T21:58:15.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T00:49:26.470" Score="1" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 accord v6 that will jump idle between 1k and 2.2k rpm.  When driving this is not too much of an issue until the transmission down shifts then the engine tries to catch up.  Getting multiple cylinder misfires and air idle control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The codes I am getting are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;505 code and cylinder misfire code, I don't have the number. I did reset the codes and now only the 505 code comes up at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was running fine the other day and then just today this happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10910" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T09:24:36.910" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T11:07:18.863" Title="98 honda accord 3.0 v6 bad idle, running issue" Tags="|honda|accord|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T03:36:45.847" Score="2" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove the truck through a big puddle and it killed it. Found I had completely soaked the air cleaner and had possibly got water in the intake. I replaced the filter and took contact cleaner to all the sensors. The truck won't idle above 1000 rpms with the pedal to the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked it a computer and it said the crank sensor was out of range, replaced the crank sensor, map sensor, and all the plugs and wires. Found that it was misfiring on #s 2 and 3. So I changed the coils and it still ain't hitting on those cylinders. Also I drained the oil and didn't find any water in the pan or the cylinders. What would be my next step aside from pulling the pan and looking at the crank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10911" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T12:09:11.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:09:11.433" Title="Chevy 4.8 misfiring" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T08:27:29.570" Score="3" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving to work this morning &amp;amp; my engine oil warning light appeared on my dash. I assumed it needed a top up. When Parking up at work I noticed that oily black water was pouring out under neath the car I opened the bonnet &amp;amp; it appears to be overflowing out of a yellow cap located near the coolant chamber, can someone please help as to why this is happening. The car doesn't appear any different when driving sounds &amp;amp; drives as usual? Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T12:17:26.863" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T16:07:19.003" Title="Vauxhall corsa diesel leaking oil" Tags="|oil|leak|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17784" CreationDate="2015-06-18T09:29:32.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An 'end of its life' head gasket might cause the problem. But before that you be sure about the liquid- is it oil or water or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T09:29:32.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17778" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:17:10.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve covers leaking is only going to cover the engine in oil.  As long as you have enough oil, its not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overheating sounds like a pinhole leak, or the radiator is partially clogged.  Check for cold spots on the radiator.  If you can, pull over when it gets hot and see if you can see any pinhole leaks spraying.  You might want to clean the engine beforehand to make it easier to find any leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought:&#xA;Overheating at speed is a little different than overheating always/at lower speed.  I am not sure if you have an electronic fan or a crank-driven fan.  With an electronic fan, the fan turns on at a higher temperature when you are driving more than 35mph because the airflow is more than what the fan can move.  If there is any obstruction, or change in the airflow (missing underbody covers), it could cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:17:10.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17765" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:38:02.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends upon the type of vehicle .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a car where the brake assembly is independent of the wheels , you do not have an issue whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on the other hand if you have a motorbike which has the rotor(the disc) attached to the wheel , if you depress the brake , the pads will stick together preventing you from reinstalling the wheel back into the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution is to take a flat headed screwdriver and separate the pads then insert the rotor in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T13:05:11.817" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T13:05:11.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17665" CreationDate="2015-06-18T12:03:51.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your mirrors are these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crgmoto.co.uk/crg-ls-hindsight-bar-end-mirror-27-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crgmoto.co.uk/crg-ls-hindsight-bar-end-mirror-27-p.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it looks like the way you mount them is to move all the controls inboard a bit and then clamp the mirrors on to the newly revealed handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T12:03:51.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T14:17:24.470" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn AC on engine surges up and down.  Why and what is wrong.&#xA;Have changed all belts, and replaced tensioner for AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10916" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T15:23:38.653" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T09:07:16.843" Title="2003 Nissan Frontier pick up 4 cylinder" Tags="|nissan|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="48629" CreationDate="2015-06-18T17:55:34.273" Score="3" ViewCount="4471" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I know I'm not the first with similar issues, but my situations way weird)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevy Malibu Classic '04&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan always works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I click the A/C button, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it turns on, it will randomly turn on and off. Sometimes it toggles in a split second, sometimes after 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps the A/C stay on if I hold down the &quot;blow internally&quot; button, (Ie not the &quot;use outside air&quot; button. If I just push the internal button, it'll sometimes work immediately, but I usually have to push it a few times, or hold it down, to get 5-15 min uninterupted AC/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that blowing power level affects it, but also the speed of the car. For example, on the highway, levels 3 and 5 work, but not 4. At slow speeds, 4 sometimes works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10919" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:43:54.207" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T16:07:18.140" Title="My car A/C works sporadically, and has weird symptoms, help?" Tags="|chevrolet|maintenance|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:14:23.907" Score="-1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a 03 katana and for some reason the bike won't power on anymore...I turn the key and nothing no lights nothing. I'm not sure if it's the battery or what. What should I do to trouble shoot the problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10922" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:41:57.317" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T11:13:41.043" Title="Bikes power is iffy" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-22T02:47:42.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17794" CreationDate="2015-06-18T20:38:17.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a multimeter on the battery or take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. If it's dead, charge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not dead, start tracing the power. A wire could have burnt up at a switch or perhaps there is a fuse that has died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9705" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:38:17.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T21:08:50.827" Score="0" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I Am driving my car will just cut off and it takes a while to crank up then at Times it cut off start up then cut right back off again and again I don't know wats wrong&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10923" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T16:19:23.153" Title="my car cuts off while driving" Tags="|dodge|neon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T21:30:33.917" Score="1" ViewCount="10604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking online, but I can't find a description and the images are too zoomed-in to tell exactly where the AC drain hose is. Another problem is that the hose might vary between generations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Underneath the car, where is the BMW e46 AC drain hose located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The exact make is 2005 330ci. The images are from searching 'e46 AC drain location' or other similar variants including '2005', '05', 'bmw', etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T11:19:41.017" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:02:27.647" Title="Where is the e46 AC drain hose located?" Tags="|ac|bmw|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:41:39.277" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 V6 Tacoma is overheating, I have done just about any test imaginable, replaced the thermostat, water pump, did many other checks, incl. chemical test for gas residue in the coolant system etc.  All tests come back negative.  It looks like the head gaskets are not leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing that comes to mind is that the heater core might be a problem.  How do I test that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:54:22.790" Title="How to test if heater core is causing cooling malfunction?" Tags="|cooling-system|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17798" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:54:22.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater core will not cause an issue with cooling. In fact, some vehicles use a shutoff valve to regulate the amount of coolant flow, which increases/decreases the amount of heat going to the core due to no heat to exchange. This is not an area to check for a cooling issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to test your heater core (without removing it) is to see if it produces heat when you put the selector to high. If it is plugged no heat will come out. If it is partially plugged, only lukewarm heat will come out. You could possibly check it by removing both coolant hoses (inlet and outlet) and blowing air through one side to see how it comes out the other side. That is a little more involved, as you need to drain the coolant down far enough to drain the core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:54:22.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17789" CreationDate="2015-06-18T23:58:31.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to look for is remove the intake boot at the throttle body, and look at the throttle plate area. If there is black carbon around the throttle plate where it seats, clean it with carburetor cleaner.  Put it back together and start the engine. It will be flooded so hold the throttle open until it starts and clears. The idle should start out being high so let it run at idle for a minute to let it stabilize.  Turn on the AC and see what it does. If that takes care of it, you're done. &#xA;If not, there is a base idle adjustment that may have crud in it as well. The simple thing is to turn the screw out a quarter turn and see if that fixes it. The screw is near the throttle body in a round hole (sometimes it has a rubber cap on it). The screw is about 3/8 of an inch thick and is silver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T23:58:31.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T01:04:25.783" Score="5" ViewCount="5987" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the owner's manual for my 2001 Ford F-150 (5.4L), in the section on &quot;Adding engine coolant&quot;, it specifies the type of coolant to be used, and says it should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water.  It explains how to open the coolant reservoir and so forth, and then there is the following paragraph (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After any coolant has been added, run the engine for a few minutes to mix the coolant.  &lt;strong&gt;Check the coolant concentration.&lt;/strong&gt;  Make sure the engine is off and cool before removing the coolant pressure relief cap (see proceeding [sic] steps on cap removal).  &lt;strong&gt;Check the concentration per the &lt;em&gt;Checking Engine Coolant&lt;/em&gt; section.  If the concentration is not 50/50&lt;/strong&gt; (protection to -34 F / -36 C), &lt;strong&gt;drain some coolant and adjust the concentration.&lt;/strong&gt;  It may take several drains and additions to obtain a 50/50 coolant concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section on &quot;Checking Engine Coolant&quot; explains how to check the &lt;em&gt;level&lt;/em&gt; of fluid in the coolant system, but in an apparent omission, does not actually say anything about how to check the &lt;em&gt;concentration&lt;/em&gt;.  I don't know how one would do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Short of a complete chemistry lab, is there actually a way to test the concentration of coolant in the system, to see whether it is 50/50 as specified?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other than by somebody having added the wrong concentration, is there any reason why the concentration of coolant currently in the truck should become incorrect?  Why would it be necessary to test it?  (Differential evaporation rates, maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7632/is-coolant-testing-necessary-on-modern-vehicles?rq=1&quot;&gt;Is coolant testing necessary on modern vehicles?&lt;/a&gt; is also about some method of testing the coolant mix that's already in the vehicle.  But I don't really understand what they are talking about, and it doesn't directly address my questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T18:41:34.410" Title="How, and why, do you test coolant concentration?" Tags="|ford|coolant|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17804" CreationDate="2015-06-19T01:52:28.450" Score="6" ViewCount="119829" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I always did up to now to check if my spark plug was doing fire :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it plugged into the spark plug cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground it on the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start and check if sparks happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they are blue, the spark plug is ok. Else if the sparks are yellow or there is no spark at all then the spark plug is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this method may work in most of the case, it does assume that the wiring/spark plug cable etc. are doing their job properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm looking for a way that would confirm that I get no fire because the spark plug are bad and not because there is any other background problem such as bad spark plug cable etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there any other way to check if a spark plug is working properly so I can eliminate the case of bad spark plug when I get no fire ?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T18:44:04.407" Title="How to diagnose a bad spark plug?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17802" CreationDate="2015-06-19T02:23:59.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, check the image in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/11444/4152&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; to diagnose the state of the spark plug. Look for cracks in the porcelain of your spark plugs, as this is a sure sign it is bad (electricity leakage will occur). Even if it's working now, it will soon fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, to check the spark plug lead, you can check it by ohming it (checking the resistance of the wire). A conventional plug wire has a resistance of 10,000 to 15,000 ohms per foot of length: if it's measurably higher, the wire probably is bad. An absolutely failed wire will have a hairline break somewhere, and the resistance will be infinity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you have a known good spark plug (good tan color), you can swap it into the position of the possible bad plug and see if it miss follows the possible spark plug or if the known good spark plug is now not firing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider when testing the spark plug outside of the combustion chamber (your described method) is that the spark doesn't travel as well under pressure (as you'd see during compression inside the combustion chamber) as it does under no pressure (in normal atmosphere as you'd see outside the combustion chamber). Just because you see spark when testing as you did, does not &lt;em&gt;prove&lt;/em&gt; the spark plug isn't having issues during normal running operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T02:23:59.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2015-06-19T03:17:13.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most shops will charge their normal hourly rate. But its not uncommon to see mechanics try to charge you something extra (whether a flat fee or a higher hourly rate) based on you bringing your own parts. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you hear people or mechanics say &quot;we will not warranty it&quot;, it's not completely true. I heard from a more legitimate mechanic that it is by law that all mechanic work is under warranty. The difference might be that they don't warranty the parts themselves but the work is still under warranty. Mechanics who know this may still try to play it off like there is no warranty, and if you don't come to them for warranty work when it breaks, better for them right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually IS a bigger hassle for them because the mechanics do not know the quality of the parts you are using and if something breaks, they may have to cover it. It is a potential liability and many different stores (not just mechanics) choose not to deal with these types of cases for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with what I said above, I personally would not pay extra for bringing my own parts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Find a shop that will allow you to supply your own parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T23:55:15.963" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T23:55:15.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T04:25:39.910" Score="2" ViewCount="7817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a little confused on this, I have been using tap water which seems to work(I don't know if there are some long time after effects). But someone recommended to use the water coming out from my A/C unit in my house. Is it so? Or I have to purchase the battery water specifically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T09:26:23.920" Title="Can I use tap or A/C water in my battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17806" CreationDate="2015-06-19T04:29:22.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only use distilled water in to top off you battery. Anything else will contaminate the battery and cause it to fail prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When filling your battery, regular tap water isn’t going to cut it. Tap water contains minerals that are harmful to batteries, even if added in small amounts. This is particularly true for water softened by water softeners which contain chlorides. To be safe, distilled water is your best bet and is a much smaller investment than a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crownbattery.com/news/watering-your-lead-acid-battery-the-basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See here for more information&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2019-08-03T17:55:12.097" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T17:55:12.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17815" CreationDate="2015-06-19T05:21:49.393" Score="17" ViewCount="43674" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do diesel automotive engines redline at around 4500 rpm whereas petrol ones go to 6500-8000 rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this have something to do with the compression ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T02:18:42.770" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T22:59:05.443" Title="Why does diesel engine have redline much lower than petrol engine redline?" Tags="|engine|diesel|rpm|gasoline|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17817" CreationDate="2015-06-19T06:41:02.030" Score="8" ViewCount="42787" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father in law tells me if I leave the radio on in my car when I shut off the engine this will cause a bit of battery drain when I start the car. He says this will actually reduce the life of my battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this only true with 'older' cars?  If so, before what year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised a modern car doesn't have the electronics to control when the radio kicks in (if it is left in the on position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T11:01:22.770" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T16:02:32.383" Title="Does turning off the radio and other electronics in a car before shutting off the engine prevent battery drain?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17812" CreationDate="2015-06-19T07:17:41.857" Score="2" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around one month ago I have replaced my spark plugs and respective wiring. Everything was fine to until one week before, when the car started to misfire (struggle?) in the morning when car is cold. I checked the wires right after starting the vehicle and I felt electrical shocks, so I guess the wires are arcing. When I run about 5 kms, the problem goes away. The question is: what should I do to make it run smoothly from the start? I guess it might be caused by accumulation of the moisture during night(since it is parked outside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is Mitsubishi Lancer 1.3 GLX '99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10926" LastEditorUserId="10926" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T14:05:59.937" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T14:05:59.937" Title="Spark plug wires arcing when car is cold" Tags="|sparkplugs|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17809" CreationDate="2015-06-19T08:30:10.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very much depends on how your radio is wired up.  A typical car radio takes two feeds from the battery; switched live and memory live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switched live is usually attached to the ignition switch and powers the radio up when the ignition is switched on.  Memory live always takes a feed of power from the battery and is used to store things like the current time, radio station presets and the position in the CD you were listening to so it can be resumed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people prefer to have both switched and memory permanently live so that the radio will continue to play music when the keys are removed from the car.  Others have them setup so that the radio only plays music when the keys are in the ignition.  Indeed certain manufacturers; Kenwood in particular, provide plugs in their looms so that the configuration can quickly be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car radio won't play music unless the keys are in the ignition then switching it off when parking will not make any difference to the battery drain.  However, if your radio is wired to continue to play when the keys are removed then do switch it off to prevent excessive battery drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T08:30:10.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17810" CreationDate="2015-06-19T08:32:22.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try greasing the outside of the plug leads with dialectric (silicone) grease.  This is standard procedure when servicing certain Citroen vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T08:32:22.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17698" CreationDate="2015-06-19T08:42:37.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically if the car you drive was available with ABS and you are able to locate a car otherwise identical to yours at a scrap yard then the cost will be considerably less than ordering the parts new.  However, only if you have the tools available, somewhere to do the work and the skills needed would you be able to make the conversion economically viable.  You would then have the issue of trying to find an insurer who would accept a car which had a non-standard braking system (even if it was taken from another car the same, you would still have to declare it as a modification).  You may find they would want an engineers report to certify the installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free alternative is to learn an advanced driving technique called cadence braking.  This allows you to manually do the same job with your right foot as an ABS module does.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_braking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cadence Braking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T08:42:37.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11459" CreationDate="2015-06-19T09:16:03.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other suggestions about battery voltage and ignition switch, check that the exciter cable (typically the &quot;thin&quot; one) that goes to the starter motor has no breaks in it and is firmly connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for obvious things like there are no blown fuses in the fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other suggestion is to check that you've not trapped any wiring under the seat when it was reclined and you've not accidentally left an interior light switched on which could have drained the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a manual car, try bump starting / tow starting it and if it fires up that way, it points to a problem with the starter motor or wiring around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T09:16:03.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17808" CreationDate="2015-06-19T09:24:38.920" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Short its based on low burn rate of diesel plus the longer stroke of the diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you must understand the difference between these engines, the diesel works on purely compression of fuel , heating and generating bang to produce power, the gasoline on the other hand is natively twitchy and needs a spark to explode and produce power on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of the petrol engine as a cheetah, it has lightweight bones and has a streamlined body thus is very fast but is not powerful enough to kill a lion or a rhino. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Diesel engine is like an elephant, its slow and has a lot of strength, but needs heavier legs to support the huge body mass thus it cant run as fast as the cheetah but has a lot of strength. By strength of the elephant I mean torque in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The petrol engine natively combusts so it does not need heavy duty parts to withstand the explosion, yes you are compressing the fuel but its not nearly as much as the diesel, that is why 100cc motorcycles rev like crazy they have lightweight construction (cranks, pistons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diesel does not combust as much as petrol, it needs to be compressed to a much higher extent to combust thus the cylinder head, the piston, the crank everything needs to be heavy duty to withstand the compression explosion thus slowing down the speed of the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally to answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel burns slowly compared to petrol and for most diesel engines the limit is around 4800 to 5000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding clarity to the above point, in a petrol engine almost 95% of the fuel is burnt in every stroke but in the diesel engine not all of the diesel is burnt in each stroke due to the slow combustion rate some diesel remains in the cylinder before the next stroke so no matter how hard you push, that small quantity of diesel will not burn before the piston is ready for the next stroke thus limiting the speed or redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T08:27:38.907" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T08:27:38.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17780" CreationDate="2015-06-19T09:29:53.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p0505_honda.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0505&lt;/a&gt; appears to relate to the Idle Stabilization Value or Air Idle Valve.  I'd suggest checking the wiring is intact and firmly plugged in first followed by a thorough clean of the valve and throttle flap with a suitable solvent.  If this doesn't work it may be a case of looking for a replacement valve I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T09:29:53.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17809" CreationDate="2015-06-19T09:31:11.317" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This step is a carryover from days gone by and is not needed in modern vehicles. Batteries from 50 or 60+ years ago were not as powerful or reliable as modern ones. Older batteries had difficulty handling the load of the starter motor alone. Engines cranked longer before starting and were cranking large displacement engines. Any added load from wiper, radio heater fans, etc. while starting may have prevented the engine from starting. Realizing this modern cars disconnect everything that isn't needed to get the engine running during the crank cycle. You can test this yourself by leaving the radio on. You notice the radio plays with the ignition in the &quot;on&quot; position but shuts off in the &quot;start&quot; position.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T09:31:11.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17801" CreationDate="2015-06-19T10:37:08.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to the question of how to test your coolant mix, you would use an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht433-anti-freeze-coolant-tester&quot;&gt;antifreeze and coolant tester&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to why, you would want to ensure that your coolant mixture is correct as this provides protection against icing in the winter, enhances the effectiveness of the system in the summer and provides some corrosion inhibitors to prevent your coolant system rusting or silting up inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T10:37:08.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17808" CreationDate="2015-06-19T10:45:39.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on Anarach's excellent answer; the burn rate of diesel is slower than petrol and at higher RPM you would risk the exhaust valve opening whist the mixture in the cylinder was still burning.  Increase the RPM higher, especially on engines designed with some overlap so that inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time and if you still have a burn event happening in your combustion chamber, you risk detonation which will totally ruin your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably also an argument that on a petrol engine, you are controlling the exact point in the cycle of each cylinder that the combustion starts.  A petrol engine advances ignition by virtue of either weights within the distributor body or by electronic means via an ECU map.  With a diesel engine you are reliant on compression ignite the fuel and thus limited to when this event is triggered which is likely the reason that such engines typically have a far narrower power band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T10:45:39.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17794" CreationDate="2015-06-19T11:13:41.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing you do is check the battery with a multi-meter (as mkaatman said). If the battery is good, it will have a reading well over 12.5vdc. If it is below this, put it on a charger and get it to 100%, which while sitting should be around 13.1vdc or more. I suspect the power level of the battery is going to be much lower than this and believe your battery is the main culprit here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you personally cannot figure out if the battery is good, take it somewhere like AutoZone or Advance Auto and have them load test the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery checks good, you need to check to ensure you don't have any corrosion on the battery leads (where the cables connect to the battery posts). If you do, this will prevent the battery from charging correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this, then, does not prove any issues, you'll need to make sure the alternator on the bike is charging correctly. This is going to be a little more tricky. If you get the battery recharged (or back to a state where the bike will start), you'll put a multimeter on the battery while it's running. The voltage should read in the 13.8vdc+, but should not be over 14.5vdc. If your initial reading is at battery voltage (~13.1vdc), but slowly decreases, this is a sign the alternator is bad and will need to be replaced. I'm not &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; sure on a bike how the charging system works (size of alternator, where it's exactly located, etc), so will leave it at that. Needless to say, if the battery is not recharging, your battery will not stand up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T11:13:41.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17784" CreationDate="2015-06-19T12:24:23.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could be really lucky and it could be that the rubber seal within the cap has deteriorated and is no longer holding the pressure in the expansion tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** CAUTION ** - Do NOT remove this cap whilst the car is warm, you risk scalding from both super heated water and escaping steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the car has cooled, remove this cap.  If it appears to be loose then it may just need refitted tightly.  If it was tight but the inside of the cap looks like it's deteriorated or checked, order a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the bad news; typically this behavior is caused by a failed head gasket where cylinder pressure is escaping into the coolant system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it is water / coolant you are seeing under the car and it may be black because the route its taken to get to the ground has seen it wash across various grimy, oily bits under the bonnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to get a compression test done.  A garage won't change very much for this and it will tell you for certain if any cylinder pressure is escaping.  If it is you have three realistic choices; rebuild the engine, replace the engine or change your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous products online which claim you can add them to the coolant and they solve the problem, I have yet to find any which work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T12:24:23.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17628" CreationDate="2015-06-19T12:26:51.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Mk1 Golf there is a bush at the ring gear end of the starter motor which could be causing the problem.  It could be caused by failing ring gear on the flywheel, a bad earth strap or simply an aging starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the starter is easily removed and nothing is particularly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T12:26:51.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17828" CreationDate="2015-06-19T12:27:09.013" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know where this plate come from. I suspect that it could be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_Luxembourg#Custom_plates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom plate from Luxembourg&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure because this is not the usual format for european plates (color, no country letter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMBcy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this may not be the exact place to ask, but that's the most accurate I've found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10931" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:02:12.093" Title="Where is this plate from?" Tags="|license-plates|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-19T15:08:52.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17809" CreationDate="2015-06-19T13:07:17.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.  Some (most?) cars shut off the accessories automatically in &quot;start&quot; mode, however you still have a brief drain even then as you flip past &quot;on&quot; to &quot;start&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter?  Most of the time no, it doesn't.  It would only matter if your battery was already right on the edge.  Reasons your battery might be borderline include old age and extreme temperatures (example, it's all my standard sized battery, even when new, can do to start my high compression car when it's -20F out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T17:07:53.543" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T17:07:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17824" CreationDate="2015-06-19T14:55:23.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gov.gg/RegistrationNumbers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guernsey&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plates from the channel island of Guernsey are digits only.  They follow the UK size and colouring but white on black is still commonly seen as well as the reflective black on white/yellow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The country plate on the back of the car will be GBG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of Luxembourg doesn't apply, their plates are always black on yellow and have slightly smaller characters than the UK/GBG plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T15:02:12.093" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:02:12.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17796" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:34:19.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem some years ago and it turned out to be a blocked breather on the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time it happens to you, provided you are somewhere that it's safe to do this, jump out of the car and pull the fuel filler cap off and listen around the neck of the fuel tank of a whooshing noise, as though air is being sucked into the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case then the car should start up again fairly easily and repair is a case of clearing the tanks breather hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively the problem could be a wiring fault or issue with a fuel pump relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:34:19.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17809" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:11:22.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving your radio on so that you can hear it working with no key in the ignition is only possible on some cars. It's useful to be able to do this sometimes, but there is indeed a risk you will accidentally leave it on for a long period and eventually flatten the battery so you can't start it. With a healthy battery that would take weeks, but with an old battery it might make a difference in days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a car that always cuts the radio off when you remove the key, it's technically true that leaving the radio on during starting will drain some additional current, but it's tiny compared with the starter motor (milliamps instead of amps). It won't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10935" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:11:22.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:39:15.270" Score="1" ViewCount="13550" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Kia Sportage's brakes are locking up when you put the vehicle in reverse. When you put it in drive or neutral the brakes release. When they lockup, it sounds like air pressure and the pedal goes down to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10936" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T19:14:51.750" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T23:35:23.347" Title="Brakes lock up when you put the vehicle in reverse" Tags="|brakes|kia|sportage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17832" CreationDate="2015-06-19T19:25:27.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rear brakes are drums, based on parts availability. My thinking is, some of the hardware on one side of your brakes has failed, but it is only evident when the vehicle is put into reverse. When in reverse, the shoes are pulled out of place, locking one of your wheels in place, and allows the brake cylinder to expand uncontrollably. When you put it back into drive, the brake shoe goes back into place, pushing the cylinder back into its proper position. (Mind you, this is only conjecture at this point due to the limited amount of information.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;SHOULD NOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; drive your vehicle until you get it figured out. This could be a huge issue which could cause you to completely lose your brakes while driving. If you don't have the means to do the work yourself at home, have it towed to a shop to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T19:25:27.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17058" CreationDate="2015-06-19T19:32:22.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about the &lt;em&gt;barely&lt;/em&gt; audible noise which occurs about 1/2 way through the video. You are slowly bringing the RPMs up past 1000. When you get it &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; above 1000 (probably like 1050), I hear a slight noise. This noise sounds like some kind of resonance whistle coming from the intake tract. To test this theory, take your air cleaner out and completely clean any debris which might have collected on the inlet side (from the outside of the car). Something may be in there somewhere which, when a certain amount of air flow occurs through the intake, it whistles (or makes the noise). This is the only thing I can think of as in order to hear any out of the ordinary noise, I had to turn the video sound all the way up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T19:32:22.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:01:49.710" Score="3" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a P1135 code on my 2005 Toyota Camry.I have replaced the A/F sensor first with a Bosch then with a Denso. I am still getting the same trouble code almost immediately after starting the car up. I checked the connector for power at the connector and I have power at the lower right male connector. What is my next step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10938" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T20:38:33.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T12:28:58.893" Title="Check engine light 2005 Toyota Camry" Tags="|toyota|cel|p1135|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:07:16.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be keying on it when the AC compressor is cycled on. Your 10PSI is way low no matter how you look at it. From the different videos I watched, I believe &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THuGWOmWRCA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; is probably about the best I've seen. It is quick and to the point. Basically, your AC pressure when the AC compressor is &lt;em&gt;running&lt;/em&gt; should be between 25-45psi. This is going to vary by how warm it is outside. If it's really warm when you are doing this, your pressure needs to be higher. If it is already cold outside, the pressure is going to be lower. Remember, check the pressure when the AC compressor clutch is kicked on and the system is running. When the AC compressor clutch is not engaged, it is quite normal for the pressures to read into the red area of the gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:07:16.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17011" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:16:50.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pinging is caused by one of several different reasons. It is usually a hot spot in the combustion chamber which is causing the issue. A hot spot is usually made of carbon buildup, the edges of which get hot very easily, will glow red as such, and will ignite the air/fuel mixture. If a hot spot is present, it will pre-ignite the air/fuel mixture during compression. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have to do is clean out the combustion chambers. The easiest and most effective way to achieve clean combustion chambers is to give your engine a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SeaFoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. Once the hot spot(s) in your engine are cleaned out, you should be golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T23:21:04.440" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T23:21:04.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16967" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:20:06.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which engine the Z5 is, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12618/fast-idle-and-high-fuel-consumption/12620#12620&quot;&gt;this is the procedure&lt;/a&gt; for the 1997 Mazda Protege engines. The Protege's are called 323's elsewhere in the world for those years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:20:06.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17846" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:21:10.993" Score="3" ViewCount="8552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that it's possible to hold the crankshaft still, for the purposes of unbolting the pulley, on a manual transmission vehicle without a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000Q8GVPY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special tool&lt;/a&gt;, by shifting it in the smallest gear (5th or 6th, depending on vehicle) because that gives the most resistance to power transfer.  Is it a safe way to do it or is it a hack that could mess something up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T01:16:50.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T01:16:50.967" Title="Holding crankshaft still while unbolting pulley by shifting to smallest gear" Tags="|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2015-06-19T21:07:05.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you first start the car check the exhaust pipe. Some condensation is normal if you get clouds of steam you may have a cracked head. You can get it tested at any reputable repair centre. Some manufacturers have increased engine capacity by boring out the cylinders this in some cases has left very little metal between the water jacket and the cylinder head if you don't run glycol with an alloy motor this can corrode allowing water into the cylinder hence the steam on start up of the engine. MAKE sure if the car boils you don't just top up with water add glycol or you can have a major problem in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10940" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T21:07:05.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T21:13:27.467" Score="1" ViewCount="53569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors about 2 months ago and am now hearing a very noticeable noise when braking. I'm driving a 2010 Honda Civic LX-S with about 67K miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odd thing is that it only appears when coming to a slow stop, not hard stops. I've had a Honda mechanic drive my car but since the noise didn't happen when he drove it, he says everything looks good. However, this morning it was awful. I heard it the whole way to work and it seems to be getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what it could be? I'm by no means a mechanic, I have always had my dad fix car issues for me but he lives 500 miles away now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10941" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T06:39:23.920" Title="Low rumble/groaning noise when come to a slow stop" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|noise|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T23:39:59.410" Score="4" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Bass Tracker boat.  They no longer make the throttle controller for the boat, but I need to replace the ignition switch (which is in the throttle controller).  I looked online and this product looks about the same as the ignition I have to replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PW7MA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Sierra-Switch-Ignition-Sierra-Part-MP41090&amp;amp;i=900274&amp;amp;r=view&amp;amp;cvsfa=2586&amp;amp;cvsfe=2&amp;amp;cvsfhu=393030323734&amp;amp;kpid=900274&amp;amp;gclid=CM_63tTMnMYCFQMbaQodjL4AIQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gander Mountain Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the wires on the existing ignition don't have the same colors as this one.  How do I know what to connect to what??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Douglas Johnson" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T11:54:20.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:54:20.337" Title="How to wire an ignition switch for boat throttle controller" Tags="|electrical|wiring|boat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17839" CreationDate="2015-06-20T00:49:17.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, put it in the highest gear you can put it into if you have a manual transmission. This gives the greatest amount of resistance to the torque you'll put on the crank shaft bolt. At the same time, put your parking brake on for even better holding power. This should not cause any issue with the engine or drive train. I say this because in most cases the engine will put &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; more torque onto the drive train than you ever will loosening a crank shaft bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to do it you might consider is to wedge a long, flat tip screwdriver against the starter gear (if its available). This will take a second pair of hands, but it will work also (especially if you are doing the work on a vehicle with an automatic transmission). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get them off is by using an impact gun. Usually takes them off slick as snot: no fuss; no muss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: You may want to ask about putting it back on in another question. Not a good idea to use the bolt to draw the harmonic balancer back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T00:49:17.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T02:11:31.527" Score="1" ViewCount="3899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 49cc 2cycle engine that I replaced the carb on. It has fresh gas and&#xA;appears to have a spark.  I can't get it to fire even if I put some starter fluid in the air intake. It seems to have compression.  The motor has sat for a few years in a garage, it did have old gas that I clean out of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:46:18.693" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:46:18.693" Title="2 cycle engine has spark and new carb won't start" Tags="|engine|scooter|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T13:23:28.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17835" CreationDate="2015-06-20T08:21:29.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://engine-codes.com/p1135_toyota.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;P1135&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: AFR Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discovered, the malfunction doesn't necessarily have to be in the sensor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible causes for a P1135 code include:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Faulty Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1&lt;/strike&gt; (already ruled out by replacement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A faulty ECM is possible, but not probable, so the CEL is likely due to a break in the heater circuit which you will need to trace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very nice video by &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/rWoEIEAql2I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schrodinger's Box&lt;/a&gt; shows him diagnose a similar problem on a Nissan Maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T08:46:26.623" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T08:46:26.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17841" CreationDate="2015-06-20T11:49:18.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue on my truck. What I found was the caliper was not moving correctly and the pad was wearing unevenly. One side of the caliper was stuck, so was causing the issue. For my truck, there is a rod which the caliper attaches to. This rod had rusted and was not allowing free movement. This caused the brake pad to wear unevenly and cause the vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how your Honda's brakes are put together, but your mechanic should be able to see if the pad is wearing unevenly. He would have to take it apart to do so. Since the rotors/pads are brand new, there might not be much visible wear on either. By taking it apart, it may become self evident what the issue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T11:49:18.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15477" CreationDate="2015-06-20T12:49:00.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quieting and muting you experience might be static suppression that some car radios have, which means that sometimes you are getting poor reception at that moment. Try driving into an underground parking and see if the radio goes quiet. If it actually is noise suppression then the new antenna is clearly doing a poor job, do check the contacts just in case. Electrical contact cleaner should come in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T12:49:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T13:03:30.920" Score="2" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used 92 Integra ZXi recently. I had starting issues so I took it to a mechanic. He found that the check engine light is disabled and diagnostic port from the ECU has been cut off. A very bad omen obviously. And yes, I'm stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the question I have is - can a generic honda diagnostic port be spliced in, or do I need to find the exact port for my engine (code ZC)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10947" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T20:45:36.840" Title="ECU Diagnostic Port cut off and Check Engine Light disabled" Tags="|engine|honda|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17856" CreationDate="2015-06-20T14:32:18.553" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I collided with the back of another car.  I had a quote from a garage authorized by my insurer that seems large. The estimator made it sound a lot more serious than I expected.  He says it's going to cost 1500 easy for the two new headlights, front grill, new front bumper. He says it may need a new front bumper beam.  He also said there was a slight bend in the front passenger wing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get a general guideline for the cost of repairs so I know if the estimate is reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T19:03:40.237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T19:46:43.270" Title="Is there a way to check if you're being ripped off for accident repair costs?" Tags="|repair|body|body-work|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17851" CreationDate="2015-06-20T15:00:35.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;generic&quot; you mean OBD1 or OBD2, the answer seems to be no according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.4th-gen-civic.com/ecu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://hondashapp.blogspot.com/2014/12/obd-compatibility-table.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another web page&lt;/a&gt; the table indicates that it is &quot;OBD0&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T15:00:35.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2015-06-20T16:28:42.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it would be very difficult to give a precise estimate over the Internet, without actually seeing the vehicle. You need to take a good look at the complete structure, not only the apparent bits but also underneath. Even if it does seem just such a bit of a superficial bang, modern vehicles are built with deformable structures that bend to absorb collision energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take into account that bumpers now go around the whole front of the vehicle, so are quite large and expensive (and ditto for headlights). Parts come in plain black, so painting also costs some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get another quote, from another garage. You will be surprised how large the differences can be, specially if the second agrees some of the existing parts can be fixed instead of changed (the wing), or second-hand parts can be sourced. This may be difficult for the bumper, though, front bumpers tend to be in high demand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T16:28:42.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17852" CreationDate="2015-06-20T19:46:43.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's your car, and if the car's still drivable, then bring it to another garage (or 2 or 3) for a quote in person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No headlights should be ok during daylight, and I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; hand turn signals are still legal in CAN/US if your signals are broken, but you might want to phone &amp;amp; ask at a local motoring association (AMA/CAA, etc) to make sure, a ticket for no lights/signals wouldn't make things any cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And/or you could take just the quote from the first garage, and ask other garages about how much the repair would cost if they did the work. Asking over the phone might work too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it were the repair bill for other car that you rear-ended you're concerned about, I think you're stuck. That owner should be able to have their car repaired wherever they want, if your insurance says it's ok &amp;amp; they'll be paying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you should be allowed to have your car repaired wherever you want. But if your insurance is paying to repair your car at a &quot;good&quot; garage, why do you care how much it will cost? Will your insurance rates go up less if you have it repaired at a cheaper place (maybe with cheaper or used parts, which for a bumper could theoretically be less safe)? Or are you considering having it repaired yourself &amp;amp; not making an insurance claim? Would that make a difference to your insurance rates, since they already know you rear-ended a car &amp;amp; might be increasing your rates anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T19:46:43.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17862" CreationDate="2015-06-20T19:50:53.923" Score="5" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0utQQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;arrow points to where leak is coming from&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am on a tight budget. How do I go through fixing the leak, start with the nuts (enclosed with red hexagons) then the blue ones and then go to the yellow ones or can I go start all together with the yellow ones. Hoping the leak, coming from the area pointed by the arrow, would be fix with seals or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bought this a second hand and I'm just a newbie so I do not know what precautionary measures do I need to observe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;car is Toyota HiAce Commuter 1995&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10949" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T13:15:03.443" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T13:15:03.443" Title="Dripping water from under the water housing" Tags="|toyota|cooling-system|repair|leak|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15477" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:01:26.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried a replacement antenna (aerial?) once, the antenna itself was great, but it had a defect in the base that attaches to the fender. The connection from the antenna attachment point to the wire inside was bad &amp;amp; would cut in &amp;amp; out. Testing it with a multimeter from the outside antenna (or outside attachment point, since your antenna's not bare metal) to the inside wire, and wiggling the wire around confirmed that it connected &amp;amp; disconnected. A break anywhere in the wire would do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try another replacement, they one you've got might be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if your original antenna had a ground cable, but the replacement does not, that won't help things. I think most of the cheap replacements rely on them touching metal on the inside of the fender as a ground, and your fender probably has paint or some coating on the inside to prevent rust, that also prevents a good ground. Sanding a small area where the replacement antenna touches the inside of the fender &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help, but I could see it leading to possible future rust too. You could try &amp;amp; attach a wire from the original cable's ground point to the new antenna somewhere, a small hole drilled somewhere safe onto the inside &quot;clamp&quot; perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, a local junkyard might have a used antenna from your same model car (or any Holden, companies use the same parts on different models sometimes) for relatively cheap. Then you'd get all the required factory connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T20:09:23.003" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T20:09:23.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17859" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:13:51.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This engine piece provides a means by which to turn the reciprocating motion of the pistons into rotational motion, then provides this power out to the drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a representation of a 4-cylinder crankshaft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCgY5.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the engine, the pistons are connected to connecting rods via &lt;em&gt;wrist pins&lt;/em&gt;. The connecting rods are then connected to the crankshaft. There are bearings which the connecting rods holds, which ride on journals on the crankshaft. The journals are very smooth and round portions of the crankshaft. The bearings go around the crankshaft as it rotates. There is a thin film of oil which is pumped into the space between the bearing journals and the bearings themselves, which provides a way where the bearing never even touches the surface of the crankshaft. The oil is fed through the block via oil gallery passages, the out through holes in the main journals. There are a second set of holes in the main journal which directs oil to the rod journals (labelled &lt;em&gt;crankpin&lt;/em&gt; journals in the picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A crankshaft can be internally or externally balanced. The balance offsets the massive rotational weight which occurs as the crankshaft rotates. This allows for smoother engine operation. Without it, the engine would tear itself apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a crankshaft has power applied to it via when a cylinder fires, massive twisting occurs where torque is loaded onto the crankshaft, then unloaded as the crankshaft twists back to right itself. The vibrations which occur due to this loading and unloading are controlled partially by the vibration/torsional damper which is attached to the front of the engine. This damper can also be used to help balance the front end of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flywheel mounting flange is at the back of the crankshaft. It is the main mounting point for either a flywheel on a manual shift transmission or a flexplate on an automatic. If flexplate, a torque converter is attached to it to couple the power output of the engine to the transmission. If flywheel, there is a clutch plate and friction disk combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T20:13:51.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T20:13:51.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17860" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:13:51.177" Score="0" Body="A component within an internal combustion engine which converts the reciprocating motion of the prisons to rotary motion which can be transferred to the transmission." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:43:49.180" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:43:49.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:37:01.327" Score="10" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to use a vacuum gauge to test older, high mileage vehicles I'm thinking of purchasing.  I figure I'll probably be limited to this, checking with a multi-meter, a balance test and whatever I can see with my eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found various sites, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&amp;amp;A=2393&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which detail the various results you can get and what they indicate is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most seem to agree that normal is between 17-22 at sea level subtracting 1 for each 1000 feet of elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's not always clear is which conditions are serious, walk away from this car problems, and which ones might be things that could be cheaply fixed either in a shop or as a small DIY job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a steady low reading between 8-16 could be attributed to any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect valve timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect ignition timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small vacuum leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low compression/worn rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the quick open/close test tell me for sure that it's worn rings?  If it is, what's the walk away threshold? 14? 12? 8?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a compression leak between cylinders or a leaky head gasket seem like walk away problems, what about other things listed like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticky Valves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weak valve springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn intake valve stem guides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaky manifold or carburetor gasket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive exhaust back pressure (plugged muffler or catalytic converter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to get as much info out of this test as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T07:08:49.203" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T23:24:30.850" Title="Pre-purchace Testing with a Vacuum Gauge" Tags="|buying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17857" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:39:24.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're on a very tight budget &amp;amp; don't care about the car too much, and it's not a big leak, then some of the pour-in-the-radiator &quot;leak stop&quot; products might work quickly Something &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001QT9KO6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;. Raw eggs (or just eggwhites) might work too for a little while. Those would coat your entire coolant system with &quot;goop&quot; that should plug small holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But best is to find exactly where it's leaking from &amp;amp; repair that part, I'm not familiar with that model, and google's been unhelpful about your particular model. Could just be a gasket between two metal parts, maybe thermostat gasket if lucky, or could be a cracked part.  North American Toyotas often have the thermostat attached to one of the radiator hoses that connects to the engine. And the thermostat gasket is a rubber &quot;ring&quot; around the thermostat that is easy to replace, and also easy to accidentally twist (creating a leak) while replacing too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtube is a good place to &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; &amp;amp; see how it's generally done (but LOTS of the &quot;backyard mechanics&quot; there are terrible &amp;amp; do as much damage as repairs ;-) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpYrLDjdcCA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; about replacing a thermostat looks somewhat professional (from &quot;Supercheap auto&quot;, not counting the 70s xxx music) and might be generally helpful, but even when they scrape off the old gasket you could scratch the metal &amp;amp; cause leaks if you're not careful. A plastic or soft metal (copper?) scraper would be safer than a steel razor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General precautions would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't touch or take apart &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; if it's &lt;strong&gt;hot&lt;/strong&gt;, you could get badly burned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the coolant (usually from the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator) before taking apart anything, otherwise the coolant will spill everywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have another method of transportation available, in case you take apart your car &amp;amp; need to buy something else before fixing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most coolant is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;poisonous&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, and also tastes sweet (how evil), so &lt;strong&gt;keep animals &amp;amp; children away&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;don't leave spills or open coolant lying around&lt;/strong&gt;, (and don't lick your fingers if there's coolant on them either).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T20:59:50.790" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T20:59:50.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17851" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:45:36.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to replace the DLC port is to find a vehicle exactly like yours (or even a close relative) and cut one from it. Then splice the &quot;new&quot; DLC port into your wiring, if you can find the point at which it was cut from the car. This would be an OBDI port you'd be looking for. If you do go this route, take as much wiring as you can get a hold of beyond the port itself. It's a lot easier to cut the wires back than it is to add to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked for a replacement plug and was unable to find one. I would bet you will not find a new replacement for it anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet that any 3-pin Honda DLC from an OBD car (95 and older) would probably do the trick. Also, it should be located up under the passenger side in the kick panel area. I'm sure your mechanic knows this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T20:45:36.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17841" CreationDate="2015-06-20T21:23:22.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, it can be difficult to diagnose from very little information. However, some things worth considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disk brakes have one or (more usually) two springs between the brake pads and the calipers: the pads move along these springs when in use. If they have been installed in an incorrect position (or even omitted - have seen that), that would certainly explain some vibration. This vibration will be felt mostly when the brakes are in light use, as reported by the OP. This should be easy to spot with the wheels off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The OP notes the disk rotors have also been changed. Have quality parts been used (i.e. made by the original manufacturer)? Have they been torqued up in a correct star pattern? The vibration at low braking force is also consistent with disks that are slightly off true, causing the pads to connect and disconnect repeatedly when braking slowly. When braking more strongly, caliper pressure will force the pads into continued contact with the disk, so vibrating much less if at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T21:23:22.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T22:07:30.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Automatic transmission 2002 Nissan Maxima and want to know if a faulty vehicle speed sensor can cause a car to lurch forward when braking. If I am travelling at 40 mph in 3rd gear and then brake to a stop, the car will try to very slightly accelerate (RPM's jump up 100-200)  when it downshifts to first gear and I can feel it in the brake pedal. It feels kind of hard to brake and stop the car, as if the vehicle is fighting against the brakes like it wants to keep going. I call it the bump shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a faulty speed sensor the cause of this? it seems like the torque converter unlocks late or something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I switched out the speed sensors on the transmission (not the ABS sensors) with no help, so I'm going to try replacing the TCM next as others have noted on forums. My fluid is red and does not smell burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5075" LastEditorUserId="5075" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T20:14:16.633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:14:16.633" Title="Car transmission jerky downshift to 1st gear when braking to a stop" Tags="|automatic-transmission|nissan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T23:02:24.413" Score="2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know whether the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steering_ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steering ratio&lt;/a&gt; is constant or rather variable on a Ford C-Max Mk1 (2003-2010).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T18:19:44.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T18:19:44.213" Title="Is the steering ratio of Ford C-Max constant or variable?" Tags="|ford|steering-wheel|steering-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17866" CreationDate="2015-06-20T23:33:34.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/ford/c-max-hybrid/2013/road-test-specs1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edmunds&lt;/a&gt; is showing it as a &lt;strong&gt;constant ratio (14.7:1)&lt;/strong&gt;. Steering type as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Electric-assist, speed-proportional, rack-and-pinion power steering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable ratio steering is not that common. If it had it, I'm sure it would appear all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T23:33:34.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2015-06-21T00:32:29.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringforchange.org/how-to-make-penetrating-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acetone and vegetable oil&lt;/a&gt; is superior to any store-bought oil of the same purpose (yes even kroil), as shown in lab experiments from Drexel University.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringforchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ENGR103-WD40Alternative-FinReport.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drexel team’s final report.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ya79c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ya79c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10951" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:55:28.440" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:55:28.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T06:54:16.010" Score="2" ViewCount="2671" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently bough a Toyota Highlander v6 3.0 4wd, it has an engine knock. I was wondering if I could use a Toyota Camry's engine instead of buying a new one for the Highlander. If I do this, what will be the difference in performance if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10953" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T11:40:16.390" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T12:04:26.583" Title="Installing a Camry engine in a Highlander" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|highlander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T10:02:54.980" Score="4" ViewCount="4236" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like Mazda sees high compression-ratio engines as the way forward to boost fuel economy and specific power on their midsize gasoline engine lineup (13:1 is an impressive achievement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to their &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rNtS8qyjIJU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;promotional material&lt;/a&gt; they reduce the risk of detonation by reducing the temperature of the intake charge. This is done by designing longer exhaust runners in an attempt to eliminate the possibility of hot exhaust gases reaching the intake valves of other cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that exhaust gas re-circulation is avoided altogether? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what implications would this have on the design of the catalytic converters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T22:48:43.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T18:03:40.470" Title="Does Mazda's Skyactiv-G engine avoid EGR altogether?" Tags="|engine-theory|mazda|automotive-design|egr|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2015-06-21T12:04:26.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three different engines offered for the Highlander &amp;amp; Camry which are the 3.0L V6. All three are of the 1MZ-FE model. It appears one version of the engine was used from 1994-2006 in the Camry. It produced 168–190 hp @ 5200–5400 rpm with 183–193 lb·ft of torque at 4400 rpm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine#1MZ-FE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Horsepower ratings dropped after the Society of Automotive Engineers implemented a new power measurement system for vehicle engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1997–2000 Camry had a second engine which was fit with a supercharger from Toyota Racing Development (TRD). This engine produced 242 hp and 242 lb-ft of torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest engine, which appears to be the one which the Highlander uses, is the one with VVT-i (the engine has it emblazoned across the top of itself). This engine produced 210 hp @ 5800 rpm and 222 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm. This is the engine you need if you want to keep everything as it should be. It was found in the 2001-2003 Highlander and in the 2003-2006 Camry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be differences in how the engines are handled. The same Wiki article states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Early versions of the VVT-i 1MZ used a dual throttle body, cast aluminum intake manifold, and EGR block off plates on the exhaust manifolds. Later versions used a drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base of the engine itself (the long block), will be the same between the engines. Things like intake manifold, accessory drives and brackets, flywheel/flexplate, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, etc., will be different. You'd need to strip the new engine down to the long block (if it doesn't come that way already), then take all of the stuff off of your old engine and install it on the new. Remember you'll need new gaskets to do this or your new engine will have plenty of issues (like vacuum leaks in the intake which will allow unmetered air into the intake system, and exhaust leaks which will allow air into the exhaust track allowing for &lt;em&gt;really crappy gas mileage&lt;/em&gt;.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If done right with the correct engine, you'll not have any issues. It should bolt up to your Highlander and run just like it should. If you go outside of the year range, it will probably bolt up, but will not run as it should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T12:04:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17909" CreationDate="2015-06-21T13:25:58.197" Score="2" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know the exact version of my motorcycle, I can't find this information on the frame nor the user manual.&#xA;It's a Kawasaki ER-5 sold in October 2005 in France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the fork oil and the service manual states different level regarding the version of the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Front Fork Oil Level:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ER500-&lt;strong&gt;C1 ∼ C3&lt;/strong&gt; 127 ±2 mm (5.00 ±0.08 in.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ER500-&lt;strong&gt;C4 ∼&lt;/strong&gt; 120 ±2 mm (4.72 ±0.08 in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I have the C1, C2, C3, C4 or another version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the pink slip indicates &quot;ER500A&lt;strong&gt;C2&lt;/strong&gt;A&quot; as the type of vehicle but the international identification code is &quot;JKAER500ACA085783&quot;; no &quot;C2&quot; here ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Those codes are D.2 and D.2.1 if you are familiar with the french certificates of title.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to know for sure which one I have ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10954" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:27:33.820" Title="Find the version of a motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T20:44:50.590" Score="4" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished reinstalling the intake manifold after cleaning the valves and went to start the car. It starts for about 2 seconds before shutting itself down. It throws 6 pending codes. P0503 - Speed (RPM) sensor erratic/high,&#xA;C0203,&#xA;C1103,&#xA;C1403,&#xA;C1203,&#xA;C1300.&#xA;I don't think I did anything to mess with the speed sensor. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;startup video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/0cjn7k4ny480y70/A4%20Startup.mov?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/0cjn7k4ny480y70/A4%20Startup.mov?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Stats right before shutdown: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Ptf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Stats&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD DTC: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2iCC.png&quot; alt=&quot;OBD Trouble Codes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE #2:&#xA;         So it turns out that my OBD reader was giving me the wrong codes. The real codes were P0351-354, all referring to the ignition coils (which I replaced at the same time). The car starts, registers the fault and then shuts down the injectors. They are the correct coils, and obviously they are getting current because the car starts.. why would it register those codes. I've reseated them checked all the connections. Unfortunately I didnt keep the old coils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7864" LastEditorUserId="7864" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T16:14:52.743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T16:14:52.743" Title="08 Audi A4 B7 2.0T DTC P0503 speed sensor erractic/high" Tags="|audi|dtc|a4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T20:50:26.923" Score="-1" ViewCount="1530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a AJS Regal Raptor DD125E. When I push the starter switch the engine spins but no spark at the plugs. However as I release the starter switch I get a spark from the plugs on the engine overrun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10959" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T16:24:04.347" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T18:14:16.337" Title="AJS Regal Raptor cranks but won't run" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T22:08:25.093" Score="-1" ViewCount="2759" Body="&lt;p&gt;doors are unlocking after hours of car being locked up.  Mitsubishi Verada.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10960" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T08:58:01.283" Title="Doors unlocking themselves after being locked for hours. Mitsubishi Verada" Tags="|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-29T11:24:15.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17886" CreationDate="2015-06-21T23:23:17.610" Score="3" ViewCount="76039" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to upgrading wheels and tires, drivers tend to have two different goals in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improving their vehicle's handling/performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improving their vehicle's appearance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower positive wheel offset will typically result in the wheels being more flush to the fender, giving the vehicle a more aggressive look. A lot of people that choose a much lower offset end up modifying other components on their cars to compensate for fitment (i.e., rolling fenders, adjusting camber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what effect does moving away from the stock wheel offset have on the performance of the vehicle? Is it generally a wise idea to stay as close as possible to the stock offset? And does a lower offset have any benefit on the handling and driveability of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T02:13:05.977" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T19:06:07.573" Title="Wheel offset effect on performance" Tags="|wheels|performance|handling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2015-06-22T07:41:19.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SOHC, or Single OverHead Cam, means that you only have one camshaft working both the intake and exhaust valves. DOHC, or Double OverHead Cam, means you have two separate camshafts, one for intake valves and one for exhaust valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, SOHC engines only have 2 valves per cylinder, one intake and one exhaust. DOHC have 4 valves, two intake and two exhaust. This means that you can do more fine-tuning of the engine because you have more control over how much and when air enters and exits the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to which engine to go for: SOHC engines are MUCH cheaper and easier to maintain, but they don't have quite the performance or fuel-efficiency that the DOHC does. So a DOHC is &quot;better&quot;, but SOHC is cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: when you hear of a car with &quot;quad cams&quot;, it means it's a V6 or V8 (or 10, 12, etc) with two rows of cylinder banks, each with DOHC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T07:41:19.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17877" CreationDate="2015-06-22T07:46:46.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lower ride height does have a lot of advantages aside from appearance. For one, the lower a car is, the more aerodynamic it is. Another thing that's great about a lower car is that because you need stiffer springs to compensate for the smaller amount of travel they can do over bumps, your car is kept more level when you go around corners. This minimizes body roll, which means you have less forces pulling you out of line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T08:41:09.963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T08:41:09.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17877" CreationDate="2015-06-22T08:51:56.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Offset is one of a number of measurements applicable to a road wheel and it describes the distance from the centre line of the wheel which the mounting face of the hub is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical example, lets consider a 6J wheel (a wheel which is 6 inches wide).  Offset is usually quoted as &amp;quot;ET&amp;quot; followed by an optional mathematical sign (+/-) and a number.  A wheel with an offset of ET0 is described as a zero offset wheel.  This therefore means that our 6J wheel will have an equal 3&amp;quot; of wheel sticking out infront of the hub and 3&amp;quot; of wheel sitting back over the brake disc.  Offset is quoted in millimeters (mm) so for ease of conversion, a wheel with an offset of ET+25 will effectively be recessed into the arch by ~1&amp;quot; so will protrude 2&amp;quot; with 4&amp;quot; over the brake disc.  Conversely a wheel with an offset of ET-25 (negative offset) will be pushed out closer to the wheel arch so will have 4&amp;quot; of wheel protruding from the hub and only 2&amp;quot; over the brake disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons why you may wish to deviate from manufacturers standard offset.  You may wish to fit wider wheels and encounter clearance issues with the rear face of the wheel touching the suspension leg at standard offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may, as stated wish to give the car a more aggressive look so that the wheels and tyres appear to &amp;quot;fill&amp;quot; the arches better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect on handling of deviation from manufacturers offset is to increase effective levels of grip whilst sacrificing a certain level of feel.  More performance variants of cars employ something called &amp;quot;wide track&amp;quot;.  Track refers to the width between the wheels measured across an axle.  For example, the Mk3 Golf VR6 used different front wishbones and ball joints to effectively push the wheels further out into the arches than the standard car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a wider track does is mean that cornering forces can be more effectively coped with by the outside tyres.  Consider a push bike, very unstable and easy to push over.  Add stabilizers to the bike and it now becomes harder to push over.  Imagine increasing the width from the bike that these stabilizers extend and you will see how it becomes harder and harder to push over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade-off however is that when a standard road car approaches the limits of traction it is very communicative to the driver through the steering feel that it's about to loose grip and progressively break away from it's intended line.  If the driver presses on they may unsettle and ultimately loose control of the car.  With a wide track car the limits are approached at a higher speed and the amount of information fed back to the driver is a lot shorter before the car breaks traction completely.  Consider how many Porsche 911's are damaged on wet roads because they have such a high level of grip but it goes away very very quickly. Solutions to this immediate loss of traction may include the use of bias ply tires which always given more warning and allow the driver ample opportunity to scrub the tires well before traction is gone completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related slightly to this answer is the fact that certain tuners use spacers to increase the track of the car which has the same nett effect as altering wheel offset as it pushes the wheel out by the width of the spacer from the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note is that running a wide track through offset or spacers typically accelerates wear on semi floating wheel bearings. Full floating axles tend to favour larger negative offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T19:06:07.573" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T19:06:07.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17876" CreationDate="2015-06-22T08:58:01.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars with electronic locks unlock themselves as a precaution when they detect that the battery power is getting low.  This is to try to prevent the situation where the battery is completely flat but the doors remain locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that your battery is past its best or it may be that the system that checks the remaining power in the battery has developed a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T08:58:01.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17634" CreationDate="2015-06-22T09:16:29.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the reset procedure for the SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) on Ross Tech VCDS wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Steering_Assist#Channel_009:_Steering_Angle_Sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; it would appear that within this software measuring blocks 08 groups 007 is returning real-time steering angle data in degrees.  Where this data is located other than that I'm afraid I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part number for the SAS on VAG cars appears to be 1J0-959-654-J replaced by 1J0-959-654-AG which seems to have been fitted to VW Bora, Audit A3 and Seat Alhambra, Leon and Toledo.  I'm unsure of specific models and specs but form what I can see the codes to look for on the boot stick of a vehicle equipped with ESC (and therefore a SAS) appear to be 1AP, 1AS, 1AT and 1AZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this info is of some help to you.  I'm afraid I don't know enough to give you a definitive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T09:16:29.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T10:15:01.603" Score="0" ViewCount="9903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Alto 800 lxi 2015 model and I would like to add Fog lamps for that, which is does not come with this model. But the Alto K10 has it. So I would like to modify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do that ? &#xA;and what are the pros and cons ?&#xA;Or any other easy alternation ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10969" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T16:46:32.557" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:20:25.083" Title="How to add Fog Lamps to Maruthi Suzuki Alto 800" Tags="|electrical|suzuki|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2015-06-22T10:45:19.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the differences between the car you have and the K10 with front fog lights, it appears that you would need to change the front bumper to accommodate the K10 standard fit fog lights.  If you can locate a car in the scrap yard which has the lights and bumper in the correct colour then this is probably the only economical way to do the conversion.  Otherwise you will need to order a new bumper and have it repainted in the correct colour for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alongside physically fitting the lights to the front of the car you will need to connect them.  This may mean changing your dashboard switch to one from a K10 or adding an aftermarket switch plus adding the wiring loom, fuse and associated relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always bear in mind with this kind of work you are modifying the vehicle which may have implications for insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives would include buying and fitting in inexpensive after market front fog light kit from a manufacturer such as Ring or Hella or even trading in your vehicle against one which comes equipped with fog lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T10:45:19.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2015-06-22T14:23:26.180" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you can add fog lamps on a car (lower model) where there is provision to add but the manufacturer does not include it in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case you can cut out parts of the bumper carefully, insert the exact OEM lamps which should fit perfectly and probably hook them up with your headlights so as to avoid installation of switch on the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or simply your can install a new bumper or a higher version of the same vehicle so you dont even have to do the dirty work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the Alto 800 does not have provision for fog lamps and that's by design to reduce cost of manufacture and acquiring by the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdUX2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the Alto 800 you dont even have space to add them , manually cutting up  holes or replacing the front grill/lights will cost too much and will probably ruin the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However there is an Alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fancy a fog light you can install an aftermarket LED strip on the bumper which will give you better visibility and cool looks , they can work as a DRL also with proper wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the below car which is the Alto's Older sibling and does not have proper holes for fog lamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NY63z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel by far this is the Cheapest option you can pursue if you need fog lamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy cheap ones on eBAY for around 200 to 500 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.in/sch/i.html?_odkw=led%20lights&amp;amp;_osacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=led%20strips&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LED Strips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:23:26.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T16:45:47.770" Score="5" ViewCount="11598" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the most effective way to wash your shop clothes that have lots of motor oil?  I don't want to put it in the washer together with my regular dirty clothes to avoid spreading the oil onto them.  Is there a good way to presoak them to remove the motor oil before washing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T18:54:03.883" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T12:49:44.560" Title="Washing shop clothes with lots of motor oil on them" Tags="|oil|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15824" CreationDate="2015-06-22T16:47:09.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it only occurs after braking, it could be a warped rotor or sticky caliper. If the brake pedal feels like it vibrates when braking then it's most likely warped rotors. &#xA;If your fuel economy is lower than usual then it's possibly a sticky brake caliper. &#xA;Another possibility is a bad wheel bearing.  Put the car on jack stands and try making the wheels wobble. If they do, it's likely a wheel bearing. &#xA;The last option that comes to mind is an imbalanced wheel. &#xA;Before you cough up money on a suspension job, take it to a tire shop and have them balance your wheels. If it persists, check for a bad bearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T16:47:09.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17899" CreationDate="2015-06-22T17:04:36.047" Score="9" ViewCount="5249" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drive (serpentine) belt was recently chewed down to about half the width and I had to replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings the question:  if the automotive industry has been gradually replacing timing belts with chains (my Tacoma has a chain and the model just a couple of years older had a belt), why not use a chain also for accessory driving purposes and replace pulleys with sprockets on the alternator, AC pump etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:46:46.667" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T19:18:52.090" Title="Why not have drive chains instead of drive (serpentine) belts?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|belt|timing-chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17905" CreationDate="2015-06-22T18:50:34.007" Score="12" ViewCount="17494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of variances with torque specs when a fastener is lubed with anti-seize. Some places say 25% less torque is required for same clamping load, some places say 40% less is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm rebuilding the chassis on my jeep and have had to cut out about 8 bolts now. When reinstalling bolts I am covering them in anti-seize to avoid future issues during removal. I only recently learned enough about fastener tech to understand that I have been over torquing fasteners for a while now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What percentage do you other mechanics use in this scenario? My factory service manual doesn't provide wet values so all I have to go off of is what LocTite recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10973" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T15:36:53.573" Title="Torque spec variance with Anti-Seize" Tags="|torque|anti-seize|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2015-06-22T20:50:27.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily a presoak, but if you use a product like original Gojo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3rvD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will clean the grease/oil really well. You may want to run the stuff through a second time with regular washer detergent to ensure the washer is clean after use. The alternative way would be to take them to a laundromat and use &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; washer. Only needs to be run through once that way (though I'd hate to be the person who comes after you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go this way, ensure you get &lt;em&gt;this type&lt;/em&gt; of hand cleaner, though. I doubt the orange types with pumice would work near as well (or maybe not at all). I'm not sure of how much to use of this stuff, but if I remember right, the reference to doing it this way was on the package, so it may have an amount to go with it and regular instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T20:50:27.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17894" CreationDate="2015-06-22T21:07:14.640" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise and Cost. It's really that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains used to be the most common device used for connecting the timing gears. Somewhere across the way someone told the consumer that cars shouldn't make noise and so the cheaper and less reliable belt was used by the manufactures. They did the same with direct drive (gear to gear) when they went to a fiber gear that also failed much sooner than the metal gears but were less noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T21:07:14.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17894" CreationDate="2015-06-22T21:24:38.573" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few factors &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/17898/675&quot;&gt;besides the ones already mentioned&lt;/a&gt; that don't work in the favor of chains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chains need lubrication. Do we really want another grease/oil in the engine bay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pulleys would have to be replaced with sprockets. If some debris finds its way in the engine bay and lodges itself in a sprocket you can look forward to broken teeth in case something goes awry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chains are not as flexible as belts. Wrapping one around 5/8 of a sprocket is going to be difficult, so the packaging of the engine auxiliaries will be less compact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;giving chains tension ain't easy. The chain tensioners I am familiar with rely on hydraulic pressure to keep the timing chain ship-shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chains will have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more rotational inertia compared to belts. That is undesirable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel belts (or Kevlar equivalents) are a more suitable alternative to serpentine chains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:28:44.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3360" CreationDate="2015-06-22T21:48:59.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's already well answered here but typically you torque items &quot;under load&quot;. Since torque values specify a clamping force you want to be sure that the conditions of the part are most like the &quot;real world&quot; when you set the torque. When I do tires I center the tire and snug down all lugs before putting load back on the suspension and then torquing the lugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most especially important when working with upper and lower control arms. You want the weight on the tires and the suspension settled before torquing those down. Otherwise you may bind it all together at an awkward angle and put unneeded stress on your bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T21:48:59.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T07:33:46.343" Score="4" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about the better volumetric efficiency of DOHC engines as compared to SOHC engine and was wondering if fuel efficiency is directly related to volumetric efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T10:27:04.530" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:27:04.530" Title="Fuel efficiency and volumetric efficiency" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2015-06-23T08:33:38.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue on a car years ago, has the feed to the ignition been put on the wrong terminal? i.e. one that is not &quot;live&quot; when the starter operates? if so, then it causes exactly what you describe. One way to test is to supply the ignition circuit directly from the battery and operate the starter, results will be evident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10976" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T08:33:38.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2015-06-23T09:35:32.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Volumetric efficiency though directly related to fuel efficiency on paper, it is not a deciding factor in the real world fuel efficiency of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other tons of parameters on the car which ultimately decide the fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still , People and engine builders prefer to have a engine with higher V.E because the relationship with V.E and Torque curve is much closer than that of V.E with fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Simple words higher V.E = slightly better torque curve rather than better Fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said even though the DOHC engine has about 95% V.E(which is sort of the limit for Naturally aspirated engine without tuning) has less torque at lower RPM and contradicts the above statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for that is that in most DOHC layouts there is something called as variable valve timing which only opens the taps fully when in higher RPMs to improve economy at lower RPMs, so at higher RPMs you have better V.E in a DOHC engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the reasons why DOHC is better at higher RPMs than SOHC and that is its signature feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T09:35:32.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17896" CreationDate="2015-06-23T10:08:52.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm using anti-seize, I still don't reduce the torque on the fastener. I use the amount specified by the application. The reason being is, in most places where torque is a factor, getting the clamping load &lt;strong&gt;even&lt;/strong&gt; is more important than is the factoring in the amount the lube will reduce the need for torque. The anti-seize will work as a lubricant on the threads. You will get a more accurate torque with it than you would with dry hardware. With dry hardware, you can actually be twisting the fastener, which interferes with the overall torque reading (the extra friction caused by the dry threads allows twisting of the hardware and an inaccurate torque reading). Lubricating the threads takes care of this problem, which is what the anti-seize would be helping with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even &lt;a href=&quot;http://arp-bolts.com/&quot;&gt;ARP Fasteners&lt;/a&gt; agrees that fastener assembly lubricant is important prior to doing your torquing of the fastener. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPoe9S7GqCI&quot;&gt;In this video&lt;/a&gt;, yes they are advertising their product, but they reiterate pretty much everything I've said. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is that important, you should use a dial indicator to pull a stretch on a bolt, which is far more accurate than anything else. This takes into account all variances in the different fasteners and gets the clamp exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T20:22:34.613" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:22:34.613" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17908" CreationDate="2015-06-23T17:16:47.323" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question recently dawned upon me: &lt;em&gt;do cars explode when they are compressed at junkyards?&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;It seems like the answer would be 'no', obviously, or else this would most likely not be common practice. But after seeing so many explosions in movies (and yes, I realize that they are just movies, but I still assume there must be some truth there), I am under the impression that crushing a car into a cube would pose this risk given the leaking fuel and possible sparks from metal grinding against metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any insight on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9993" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T17:58:15.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T08:17:58.337" Title="Car explosion during compression" Tags="|recycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17907" CreationDate="2015-06-23T17:57:51.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before a car is crushed, either the entire fuel tank or the contents of the fuel tank are removed from what's left of the vehicle, so there is no risk of explosion. At least here in the US, this is a requirement for environmental reasons (I would assume it is likewise throughout the civilized world). If the engine is left in the vehicle (usually not), all of the fluids must be drained from there as well (oil, antifreeze, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, etc.). Believe me when I say, when a car is crushed, there is very little left worth keeping on the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T17:57:51.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17873" CreationDate="2015-06-23T19:18:03.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try looking it up by the VIN. It should be on your frame somewhere. You can look it up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carfax.com/vin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carfax.com/vin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's your motorcycle, you could just split the difference on the fork oil height. The two specs are 7mm apart, so you'd be off by at most 3.5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also call your local Kawasaki dealer with the VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T19:18:03.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17911" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copies from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cplusplus.com/info/history/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cplusplus.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The C++ programming language has a history going back to 1979, when Bjarne Stroustrup was doing work for his Ph.D. thesis. One of the languages Stroustrup had the opportunity to work with was a language called Simula, which as the name implies is a language primarily designed for simulations. The Simula 67 language - which was the variant that Stroustrup worked with - is regarded as the first language to support the object-oriented programming paradigm. Stroustrup found that this paradigm was very useful for software development, however the Simula language was far too slow for practical use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shortly thereafter, he began work on &quot;C with Classes&quot;, which as the name implies was meant to be a superset of the C language. His goal was to add object-oriented programming into the C language, which was and still is a language well-respected for its portability without sacrificing speed or low-level functionality. His language included classes, basic inheritance, inlining, default function arguments, and strong type checking in addition to all the features of the C language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first C with Classes compiler was called Cfront, which was derived from a C compiler called CPre. It was a program designed to translate C with Classes code to ordinary C. A rather interesting point worth noting is that Cfront was written mostly in C with Classes, making it a self-hosting compiler (a compiler that can compile itself). Cfront would later be abandoned in 1993 after it became difficult to integrate new features into it, namely C++ exceptions. Nonetheless, Cfront made a huge impact on the implementations of future compilers and on the Unix operating system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1983, the name of the language was changed from C with Classes to C++. The ++ operator in the C language is an operator for incrementing a variable, which gives some insight into how Stroustrup regarded the language. Many new features were added around this time, the most notable of which are virtual functions, function overloading, references with the &amp;amp; symbol, the const keyword, and single-line comments using two forward slashes (which is a feature taken from the language BCPL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1985, Stroustrup's reference to the language entitled The C++ Programming Language was published. That same year, C++ was implemented as a commercial product. The language was not officially standardized yet, making the book a very important reference. The language was updated again in 1989 to include protected and static members, as well as inheritance from several classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1990, The Annotated C++ Reference Manual was released. The same year, Borland's Turbo C++ compiler would be released as a commercial product. Turbo C++ added a plethora of additional libraries which would have a considerable impact on C++'s development. Although Turbo C++'s last stable release was in 2006, the compiler is still widely used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 1998, the C++ standards committee published the first international standard for C++ ISO/IEC 14882:1998, which would be informally known as C++98. The Annotated C++ Reference Manual was said to be a large influence in the development of the standard. The Standard Template Library, which began its conceptual development in 1979, was also included. In 2003, the committee responded to multiple problems that were reported with their 1998 standard, and revised it accordingly. The changed language was dubbed C++03.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 2005, the C++ standards committee released a technical report (dubbed TR1) detailing various features they were planning to add to the latest C++ standard. The new standard was informally dubbed C++0x as it was expected to be released sometime before the end of the first decade. Ironically, however, the new standard would not be released until mid-2011. Several technical reports were released up until then, and some compilers began adding experimental support for the new features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In mid-2011, the new C++ standard (dubbed C++11) was finished. The Boost library project made a considerable impact on the new standard, and some of the new modules were derived directly from the corresponding Boost libraries. Some of the new features included regular expression support (details on regular expressions may be found here), a comprehensive randomization library, a new C++ time library, atomics support, a standard threading library (which up until 2011 both C and C++ were lacking), a new for loop syntax providing functionality similar to foreach loops in certain other languages, the auto keyword, new container classes, better support for unions and array-initialization lists, and variadic templates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17912" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" Score="0" Body="A Programming Language" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T23:22:53.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17913" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First started producing motorcycles in 1903 (though had the first patent on their engine in 1901). Was later bought by AMF in 1969 after falling on hard times. In 1981, AMF sold the company to a group of 13 investors led by Vaughn Beals and Willie G. Davidson for $80 million. The main headquarters is based out of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic Harley-Davidson engines are V-twin engines, with a 45° angle between the cylinders. The crankshaft has a single pin, and both pistons are connected to this pin through their connecting rods. The engine is covered under several United States patents. It is an engineering trade off which allows a large, high-torque engine in a relatively small space. It causes the cylinders to fire at uneven intervals and produces the choppy &quot;potato-potato&quot; sound so strongly linked to the Harley-Davidson brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" Score="0" Body="An American Motorcycle Brand" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T23:40:51.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2411" CreationDate="2015-06-24T07:14:27.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coming from a country where almost 80% of the personal transport are motorcycles &#xA;I agree with Rory's answer, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are driving fast , you will spend a lot less time in Neutral and when you stop you dont want to end up without power at the wheels so it makes sense to have the lowermost plonk a Gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After driving a 1N2345 bike setup for like 5 years , one day I had to drive a N1234 bike, most of the time I stopped the bike I was in neutral twisting the throttle only to make noise, riding becomes difficult and frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the idea of a N1234 looks idiotic but the reason as to why most commuter segment bikes still have them is because of comfort while waiting for signal or being stationary, if you have to live with stop and go traffic everyday then having Neutral all the way down will actually be helpful as it will easily allow you to reach it no matter what(its sort of a gear in a N1234 setup) so there is no chance of you missing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine stopping ever 15 yards and having to pull the clutch and search for the half neutral on a 1N2345 setup , by the time you figure it out the traffic starts to move and you are back where you started.I personally prefer holding onto the clutch instead of searching for the neutral as its a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T07:14:27.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="234" CreationDate="2015-06-24T08:15:00.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other tip that you may wish to try if there is no way to get a socket on it, two long screw drivers down the inside of the remains of the plug so they nip up against the electrode tip and try turning it out that way.  I've personally had success in this scenario using this technique on a Renault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T08:15:00.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17907" CreationDate="2015-06-24T08:17:58.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father is a retired fire fighter and has seen many cars on fire.  He says that they don't burn the way they do in the movies.  Even with a full fuel tank, the intensity of the fire increases once the integrity of the fuel tank is compromised but they don't explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At stated above, before a car is crushed it's subjected to a &quot;depol&quot; (depolltion) procedure at the vehicle dismantlers and part of this is to remove all fluids from the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T08:17:58.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21959" CreationDate="2015-06-24T08:26:00.400" Score="4" ViewCount="3857" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I went to wash the wife's car yesterday, and (as always) struggled with unscrewing the roof antenna from its base. This time, however, the thing broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm thinking, is this something I can replace myself? How do I even get the broken antenna base off the roof (it must be fastened from/to the inside)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, the image below shows the location of the antenna base between the windshield and roof window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKHi4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T10:25:33.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T09:19:15.797" Title="Hyundai Getz roof antenna mount broke" Tags="|hyundai|repair|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17873" CreationDate="2015-06-24T10:27:33.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it, on the last page of the Service Manual there is the correlation between the frame number and the version :&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRtkS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kawasaki ER5 Service Manual model application&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So mine is a C5, not a C2 as I thought.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/17909/10954&quot;&gt;zglennie&lt;/a&gt; said, you can make a call to your dealer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10954" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:27:33.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2015-06-24T10:36:14.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end the roof member was good but I needed to replace the roof anyway. It took almost a month for a part-time worker and the costs were :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1200$ (USD) new roof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;250$ paint job (roof and rear fenders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;800$ body works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effective worked hours were probably 50-60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:36:14.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3481" CreationDate="2015-06-24T10:51:22.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Passat B4 (1995-1997) there were lots of ignition assemblies that failed due to heavy keychains. I believe this is a sound advice from the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T10:51:22.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17918" CreationDate="2015-06-24T11:41:33.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how skillful you are with a drill, you may be able to drill a hole down the centre of the snapped off ariel that remains stuck in the base.  Then you can use something like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht123-screw-extractor-wrench-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stud extractor&lt;/a&gt; to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stud extractor is essentially a reverse-threaded self tapping screw so as you turn it in an anti-clockwise direction it first screws into the hole you have drilled.  It then &quot;bites&quot; and continuing to turn it removed the snapped of piece from the original threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one risk you have here is that if you slip with the drill you may damage the paintwork on the roof of the car.  I would advise using something like a cloth with a piece of wooden board resting on the roof to mitigate against this.  If you inadvertently drill the antenna base at the wrong angle or drill too far, you will have to replace this part which is what you are looking at doing anyway so trying to extract the snapped off piece may be worthwhile provided the cost of a stud extractor kit is less than the replacement part plus your time to fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T11:41:33.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2015-06-24T11:55:36.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In four stroke petrol engines there are four parts to the combustion cycle;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suck (draw in fuel, piston dropping down the bore)&#xA;Squish (compress the drawn in fuel, piston rising up the bore)&#xA;Bang (the fuel is ignited and combusts, piston forced down the bore)&#xA;Blow (push burned fuel into exhaust, piston rising up the bore)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the reciprocal nature of this cycle, in an engine with four pistons these events generally occur such that each piston is at one phase in the cycle.  As one piston is being dragged down the bore to draw in fuel, another piston is, at the same time, being forced down the bore by the effects of combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true of most but not all single bank four cylinder engines and similarly twin bank V8 and V16 engines.  There are always exceptions and we won't look at rotary engines but generally, in a four cylinder, four stoke engine one piston is always on it's combustion (bang) phase so power delivery is reasonably consistent across a complete engine revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing a piston, i.e. a three cylinder four stroke engine, means that there is effectively a (albiet tiny) window of time during an engine revolution where no piston is on it's combustion (bang) phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When considering four stoke diesel engines we see a similar cycle but the combustion is triggered purely by compression, not an ignition (spark) event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this goes some way to answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T11:55:36.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:55:07.063" Score="4" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;What specifically, is the design principle behind the Helical shape of gears in a synchromesh transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the Helical gear designed, in any known vehicle, to &lt;em&gt;disengage&lt;/em&gt;? Is that why the gears are helical? To make the engage/disengage smoother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the helicals on any synchomesh don't ever disengage.  Their linkage with the dog-clutch/blocking ring/mesh cone -- Basically the dog-clutch teeth is the only part that disengages.  Once the dog-teeth disengage, that will allow the entire helical to free-wheel on the mainshaft.  But the helical teeth NEVER come apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T22:14:41.190" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T06:05:53.633" Title="Synchromesh, Helical gear design" Tags="|gears|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17925" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:06:57.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's generally because helical gears run more smoothly, and quieter, than straight-cut gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting wikipedia (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/?title=Gear#Helical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/?title=Gear#Helical&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With parallel helical gears, each pair of teeth first make contact at a single point at one side of the gear wheel; a moving curve of contact then grows gradually across the tooth face to a maximum then recedes until the teeth break contact at a single point on the opposite side. In skew gears, teeth suddenly meet at a line contact across their entire width causing stress and noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice this if you ever hear a car with a straight-cut 'box (such as many racing Minis) - they make a very distinctive whine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T14:06:57.700" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17892" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:20:17.243" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I was told recently (possibly through this very site...) was that regular detergent is flammable - so your overalls, once washed, will be more flammable than they were before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T14:20:17.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17925" CreationDate="2015-06-24T16:13:11.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only do helical gears run more smoothly and quieter than straight cut gears (as said in Nick C's answer), they also provide more surface area than do straight cut gears at the mesh point. This larger surface area means less chance of gear failure due to stress risers. In a straight cut gear, the load is transferred from tooth to tooth directly. In helical cut gears, the load is divided across different teeth which also makes it a stronger mesh. No single tooth is providing support for all of the load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see what I'm talking about born out in this side by side comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmrFM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the gears are the same width, the tooth length is longer for the helical cut gears. This provides more strength and better load distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:13:11.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17931" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:27:16.717" Score="3" ViewCount="3852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having opened cylinder valve covers, I was observing how my camshaft is mounted onto the static bearings via journals (basically, parts of any shaft that rest against bearings) that completely wrap around it, which requires that journals be constantly well lubricated all the way around to insure smooth rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ever possible that the 360 bearing seal around a shaft journal is so tight as to not permit the surrounding oil to get in between, causing it to run dry and impede rotation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this is a highly theoretical question but it struck me as possible, therefore prompting my curiosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T07:02:59.070" Title="Can shaft journals ever lose lubing against bearings?" Tags="|bearing|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17930" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:01:15.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Journal bearings have a small hole to constantly supply oil for lubrication. They do not rely on oil coming from the surrounding vicinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is possible to run the bearing dry if there is insufficient oil pressure or the tolerance between the camshaft and bearing is too little, but the former scenario is an indication of bigger problems while the latter is a result of poor design/manufacturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the journal bearing oil supply holes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/wbWWCKPuZG4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; at around 1:30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T07:02:59.070" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T07:02:59.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17930" CreationDate="2015-06-24T22:14:11.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like any other bearing in any automotive engine, it needs a constant source of oil in order to keep spinning. It does this by utilizing oil galleries which are drilled throughout the block. These are fed oil from the oil pump, which draws oil (in most cases) from the oil pan reservoir. Since I know Small Block Chevrolet (GenI) engines, I'll use them as an example to show you what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUtCg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a drawing of the oil flow through the GenI engine. I have color coded the flow so I can explain where it's going and what is getting oiled. Let me step you through it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil starts in the pan at the bottom, where it is picked up by the oil pump pickup tube and brought into the oil pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil is pushed from there to the oil filter (yellow lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil flows from the filter up to the main oil gallery (green lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the oil gallery, it is fed down to the camshaft bearings (med blue lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It flows around and through the cam shaft bearings and down to the main bearings (purple lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It then flows through holes which are drilled through the crankshaft out to the rod bearings (thin light blue lines). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back up near where the oil enters the main oil gallery at the back of the block (opposite the fan), it also flows into side galleries which supplies oil to the lifters (red lines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the oil flows through the lifters, it flows up through the push rods to the rocker arms to supply oil to the rockers and valve tips (bright purple lines).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for the oil to flow out to provide lubrication to the cam shaft, the cam bearings have holes in them which when installed align with holes in the block. The bearings also have grooves in the back of them which allows oil to pass around the bearing and down to the another hole which provides the oil to the main bearings. Here is a picture of a cam bearings so you understand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRi88.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the holes pointing towards you (which would point up in the block), and the groves on the outside of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the oil is pushed out onto the cam bearings, it sort of looks like this (please note this is an exaggeration - the space when supplied with oil is much more even than what is shown here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4mUIc.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the cam bearings in the SBC stay lubed as long as the oil pump is running and there is a supply of oil. Over time, the bearings do get worn. As this happens, oil is allowed to squeeze through easier and oil pressure in the engine starts to decline. This allows the bearing to wear faster and the oil pressure to decline more. Once this starts happening, it is a vicious cycle which can only end in disaster. Please note, in a SBC engine, this takes a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; while, unless the owner does not keep up proper maintenance. The main and rod bearings will usually go bad before the cam bearing goes bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many types of engines there are out there, there are just as many ways to oil an engine and the cam bearings. The cam bearing, almost regardless of engine, are round as described above. They all get their oil from a gallery, which has to come from the oil pump some how. If oiling was attempted with just a splash on method, it would be pure devastation for the cam and for the bearing. The cam has to endure a lot of load as the lobes come around and push the valves (through whatever method - direct or indirect). The oil is there to cushion, support, lubricate, cool, and clean. Without the direct pressure coming from the oil pump, it would not last very long at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T22:14:11.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T22:14:56.450" Score="4" ViewCount="3102" Body="&lt;p&gt;After selling my car for salvage recently I began to wonder if I could repurpose my next car's engine for anything. Can old car engines be made into generators or other useful machines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10995" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T23:08:50.943" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:01:16.727" Title="Can an old car engine be used outside of a car?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17797" CreationDate="2015-06-24T22:32:12.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because there are significantly more 6 cylinder engines in the E46 generation 3-series, I will make the assumption yours is a six cylinder variant. From experience, there isn't a huge number of differences between core components on things like AC between the 4-cylinder engines and 6-cylinder ones, but it's more likely things like the radiator and engine componentry change with the increase in cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the condensation hose (AC Drain hose) is situated as in the picture below.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPQjK.png&quot; alt=&quot;E46 Condensation Hose Location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the little hose part no.9 in the image is your drain hose.&#xA;I found an image from Bimmerfest of one up close and personal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=230741&amp;amp;d=1274255778&quot; alt=&quot;Bimmerfest AC Drain Hose E46&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this all helps you track it down easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.077" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T22:32:12.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17937" CreationDate="2015-06-24T23:04:42.067" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my brakes serviced. Pads and rotors were replaced. Everything seemed fine. Today, I took a 30 minute drive where I applied the brakes significantly on the way back due to hilly terrain, but nothing out of the ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I stopped at home, I noticed that there was smoke coming from the driver side. What kind of brake problem would cause overheating only under conditions that required more braking than level terrain, but not braking that would usually be considered abusive? I've driven on those roads before with no overheating, before the brakes were serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10996" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T23:26:12.480" Title="Brakes smoke on driver side, but only after non-level terrain" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2015-06-24T23:22:47.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the sky is the limit. If you can dream of something which it can connect to, you could utilize it. There are limits, of course. I mean, you couldn't pull out a 400lb engine and expect to put it in an RC car. If you can devise a way to mount it and attach it to an object which needs power, you can make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things which I've seen engines used for outside of cars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airplanes (or other flying &lt;em&gt;things&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;authuser=0&amp;amp;site=imghp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1207&amp;amp;bih=852&amp;amp;q=v8+powered+airboats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Air boats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generators (though, this use is abusive to a car engine due to the constant RPMs needed to run the gennie)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger water pumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tractor engines (replacements when the original has bit the dust - takes some work, but it can be done)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other cars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;authuser=0&amp;amp;site=imghp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1207&amp;amp;bih=852&amp;amp;q=v8+powered+chainsaw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Saws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;authuser=0&amp;amp;site=imghp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1207&amp;amp;bih=852&amp;amp;q=v8+powered+snowblower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snow Blowers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;authuser=0&amp;amp;site=imghp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1207&amp;amp;bih=852&amp;amp;q=v8+powered+motorcycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motor Cycles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T23:22:47.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17935" CreationDate="2015-06-24T23:26:12.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these were ceramic brake pads, they tend to smoke on first heavy use. Usually, if the shop which puts them in also beds the brakes, you won't see any smoke because they'll already have caused all the smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it is just the paint on the brake pads which gets burnt up, or if the binding material is fully curing, but I've seen it happen many times with ceramic pads. There is nothing wrong with this. It happens once, then doesn't happen again. I would bet you have nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T23:26:12.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17943" CreationDate="2015-06-25T00:15:44.550" Score="4" ViewCount="14360" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the back wheels on my car has a different rim size than the others. Specifically that odd wheel is 195/65R15 whereas the other three tires are 205/55R16. I calculated the total diameter of the wheel with these tire/rim configurations and the total difference (theoretically) is about a tenth of an inch (0.1&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this okay to drive on permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No shop has ever noticed or mentioned it to me, in fact it even took myself several months to notice they were in fact different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I am driving a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 (manual transmission). The three wheels (two front, one back) are Blizzak WS60 205/55R16 91R. The odd wheel is a Michelin Energy MXV4 S8 195/65R15 91H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10997" LastEditorUserId="10997" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T02:20:27.877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T07:57:15.920" Title="Rim/tire two wrongs make a right?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2015-06-25T01:48:22.093" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue could be with your air filter or intake system, Get it checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T10:25:18.843" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:25:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T06:01:54.557" Score="1" ViewCount="3251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Hero Karizma R (225cc, 5 gears).&#xA;Recently I feel a missing in all gear befor 2000 RPM. Sometimes my bike turn off due to this missing. Usually it happens at 1st/2nd gears. After 2000 RPM there is no problem. I checked it in a road by riding my bike below 2000 RPM in 1st and 2nd gears and it shows missing. The problem in 3rd/4th and 5th gears are feeling while the accelerator's starting position immediatly after the gear shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please let me know if i missed anything in the above descripion, so that I can update my question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10999" LastEditorUserId="10999" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T06:52:29.567" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T09:07:52.593" Title="Why my bike shows petrol missing before 2000 RPM in all gears?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|gears|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T07:09:40.563" Score="-3" ViewCount="2395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine sounds like it's in 4th gear while it's in 5th gear, the revs stays normal, what could cause that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11000" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T11:02:50.083" Title="Engine sounds like it's in 4th gear while it's in 5th gear, the revs stays normal" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-06-26T08:29:38.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17938" CreationDate="2015-06-25T07:48:35.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues to consider here. In the first place, there is the question of transmission from the engine/gearbox to the wheels. Most vehicles are designed so that driven wheels run at the same speed, so need to be precisely the same diameter. Otherwise, differentials need to work continuously to compensate for the difference in wheel rotation speeds Exceptions are some models of agricultural vehicles, with different size wheels front/rear. But the drivetrains on these vehicles have been designed to take this difference into account. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the different size wheels are on the rear axle of a front wheel-driven car, so this is not a problem. Things would be different on a rear wheel drive, or permanent 4x4 vehicle. I have experienced transmission noises on a Honda 4x4 Beagle in similar circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second aspect to take into account is handling. Wheels of different widths handle differently in curves, even if their overall diameter is more or less the same. Even different makes of wheel rim can have their influence, e.g. with rims of differing weights. So your car will handle in a slightly different way when going around bends to the right or to the left. If going really hard, the rear will start to slip at different speeds. However, if you drive cautiously and at sensible speeds, this should not be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that your tyres are in fact a mix of winter tyres (the Blizzak) and summer tyres (the Michelin). They have completely different surface patterns and compositions. You can expect very different handling characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, what has been said so far is applicable to spare wheels with different sizes from regular car wheels. These are always marked with specific speed limits: &quot;Do not drive in excess of 80 km/h or 50 mph&quot;, &quot;Exercise caution&quot;, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, depending on the specific legislation of the country (or state) in which the vehicle is registered, you could very well be foul of the law. For instance, in my country it is clearly specified that all wheels on the same axis must be of the same type and characteristics. Even using tyres of different brands is frowned upon, since wheel sizes may present some variation between tyre manufacturers or even wheel models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned with this situation (I would - specifically with the difference in rim sizes), a simple solution would be to purchase one complete wheel of the same type and brand as the three identical wheels already mounted on the vehicle. You then have four equal wheels to drive on. The different wheel can be re-purposed as a spare, to be used only in the case of a flat as a means to get you to the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T07:57:15.920" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T07:57:15.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17945" CreationDate="2015-06-25T08:45:07.237" Score="19" ViewCount="231706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across this term a couple of times in the context of diagnosing engine-related issues, but don't know what it refers to. Here is an example from an automotive forum I frequent: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I gotta say it's not likely to be a burnt valve. These engines seem to be mechanically pretty bulletproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does a burnt valve refer to and what could cause it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T18:23:22.030" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T22:49:54.290" Title="What exactly is a &quot;burnt valve&quot; and what causes it?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|valve|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17944" CreationDate="2015-06-25T09:06:05.127" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valves can bend, break and/or burn.&#xA;If the valves don't provide a complete seal, for whatever reason, the hot gases are forced past the valve which eat away or &lt;em&gt;burn&lt;/em&gt; away the edge of the valve due to concentration of heat and pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zPo14.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes that I can think of  - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything that causes incorrect valve seal &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling issues (improper cylinder head cooling)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of fuel? (carbon deposit on the valves)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentration of heat at a particular point on the valve during opening (for exhaust valve) due to improper design. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDITION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is only expanding on the above mentioned points. Mostly cause I can't think of any more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect Valve Seal - for whatever reason (wear, weak spring, valve lash etc) - reduces the quality of valve-seat contact and hence impedes heat dissipation (through conduction to the head). Improper guide and/or loose seat can contribute to this. Also, as the seats wear (choice of materials) and the valves recede into the head, valvelash is lost , which leads to the same, improper contact. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choice of alloy used, width of the stem (for conduction) etc&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deposit build up can hinder conduction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valves can also run hot because of elevated combustion temperatures (for n number of reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T10:25:27.710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T10:25:27.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17944" CreationDate="2015-06-25T09:10:30.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It simply means a half burnt valve thus preventing it from sealing against its seat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is no sufficient cooling in the engine it may cause the seal of the valves to give way(exhaust valve generally), gradually over the course of time the exhaust gases escape even without the valve being fully open thus increasing the risk of further damage. A partially burnt valve will be difficult to notice &#xA;but will produce anomalies in the fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust valves are generally hotter than intake so they are more susceptible to burning , as stated above , if your valve is burnt then the exhaust gases will escape even though valve is not open, you can do a compression test to adjudicate if the valves good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinder Misfire, if your head gasket is good and still cylinders misfire then there is a high chance that your valves might be burned since it causes compression loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slight power loss, depends on the vehicle whether it will be noticeavle or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoke in the exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine overheating due to insufficient cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine running lean(one of the common causes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having LPG kit fitted which on prolonged use causes less lubrication to the valves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T13:04:52.663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T13:04:52.663" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2015-06-25T10:01:16.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Paul's answer - conventional boats are a very common application for old car engines, a good example of this being the 'long-tail' boats found in South-East Asia, which often use them: see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long-tail_boat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; for example...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:01:16.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17942" CreationDate="2015-06-25T11:02:50.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is still revving as hard as it was in fourth it may be that your clutch is slipping and is due for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T11:02:50.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T11:11:51.347" Score="-1" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 125cc Yamaha Gladiator SS125, which is about 3 years old. I had my stock air filter (paper-based) removed and installed a K&amp;amp;N conical filter about a year ago. I wanted to know if anyone could suggest any replacement/upgrade that I can do to my exhausts/silencers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is this direction would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11002" LastEditorUserId="11002" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T07:17:24.197" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T07:17:24.197" Title="Suggestions for replacing/upgrading exhaust/silencer for a 125cc Motorbike" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-26T11:36:13.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17949" CreationDate="2015-06-25T11:41:34.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add a free flow exhaust to your system ,Since your bike is carbeuratted, if you have not upjetted your carb to accommodate the increased airflow I bet your engine is running lean that is,  more air less fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can seriously damage the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut costs you can remove the silencer from the cylinder  , remove the catalytic converter and reinstall it. instead of trying to go for a full system exhaust which will cost much more.(all this after upjetting your carb)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T11:41:34.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1963" CreationDate="2015-06-25T13:55:25.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are your mounts located directly near your exhaust manifold? Do they have a heat shield? The rubber can dry and crack due to the heat from the exhaust manifold if not properly insulated/protected from the heat. On my 944, there is a small tin heat shield that protects the mounts from the manifold. Leaking oil onto the mounts will also accelerate their wear, as again on my 944 I had a valve cover (or rather, camshaft tower) oil leak which leaked oil on the motor mounts, which again causes accelerated wear. You should also be careful about the replacement mounts - some OEM mounts may have hydraulic dampening (filled with fluid) but cheap third-party replacement mounts might be solid rubber instead and much more prone to early failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T13:55:25.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:47:28.787" Score="9" ViewCount="50953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed my car's (healthy) engine will idle at a slightly higher RPM for a few moments after it's been started from cold/not run for a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that my (somewhat less healthy) other car's engine which was left for over 6 months without starting idled at a much higher RPM when started and took a few minutes to reach a sensible idle RPM (and also revved itself up and down whilst trying to settle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be interested to know what's happening here mechanically or otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11005" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T09:18:53.163" Title="Why does an engine's idle RPMs take time to settle from a cold start?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:52:25.713" Score="6" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 82 Honda 450 Nighthawk motorcycle that I'm rebuilding and I need to tune/balance the carbs. I have them bench-balanced and reset the idle screw on both. Now it runs a lot better, but every 10-15 seconds the idle raises and it starts sputtering out the carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this is just a lean mix, but could it also be vacuum or something? I don't want to tune the carbs just to realize that I need to fix something else and tune them all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T22:07:42.570" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T22:07:35.893" Title="What causes an engine idle to increase briefly?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|troubleshooting|carburetor|tuning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17953" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:52:29.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, the engine does not run as well, so it counteracts this by running at higher RPM to avoid stalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is fuel vaporization.  Fuel vaporizes at 196*F (91*c).  Unvaporized (liquid) fuel does not burn.  To keep the engine running while cold, the ECU adds in extra fuel.  On carburetor engines, they used a choke.  The rich mixture requires ignition timing to be restarted.  This causes the engine to make less power.  The higher idle allows the engine to run while the air fuel mixture and timing are less than optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the car with the idle that was going up and down, the ECU was likely trying to calibrate the inputs and output to get the idle where it needs to be.  There is a small solenoid in the throttle body that allows air through to raise the RPM while the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is that your sensors may be out of range or not working while the engine is cold.  The oxygen sensor needs to heat up before it can start working.  Until the oxygen sensor is ready, your ECU is in a &lt;em&gt;open loop&lt;/em&gt; state and must guess how much fuel to add.  This can cause an up and down in idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T22:06:43.523" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T22:06:43.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:02:56.100" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother in law got a Dodge Journey Crew 2013, pretty fancy and well-equipped, with a huge screen inside. He has the rear-view camera and he can play DVDs on his screen, he's got the wheel pressure data, etc. All's perfect, except he's got no GPS. I heard that these cars come either without the rear-camera nor GPS, or with both. When he asked at his dealership, they said that he has to pay $700 to activate the GPS. I find it ridiculous: an extra gadget would cost about $100 and it will do the job perfectly. The only reason to go with the built-in GPS is to avoid extra stuff on the dashboard. So, is there a way to activate the GPS or does he have to pay $700 anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11008" LastEditorUserId="11008" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T20:44:04.163" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T17:30:26.787" Title="Dodge Journey Crew GPS activation" Tags="|dodge|gps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17957" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:10:44.880" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T18:10:44.880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:10:44.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17958" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:10:44.880" Score="0" Body="Electronic Control Unit.  The vehicle computer which controls the functions of the engine based upon input from various sensors.   The ECU adjusts different aspects of the engine. PCM, PCU, and ECM can all be considered synonyms." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T12:04:38.780" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T12:04:38.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17659" CreationDate="2015-06-25T19:19:36.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OEM fluid is almost never required - you can almost find an aftermarket fluid meeting the same spec. Look on the fluid and look for &quot;Meets GM Spec 89201184&quot; or something simmilar. As to what you need specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Enclave requires either Dexron VI or equivalent or GM 89021184 or equivalent fluid. It depends on the year it was built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amsoil has a lookup you can use to find fluid compatibility: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=2015+BUICK+ENCLAVE+D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=2015+BUICK+ENCLAVE+D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of you can download the manual for your year Enclave here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buick.com/owners/manuals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buick.com/owners/manuals.html&lt;/a&gt; and find the fluid spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6628" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T19:19:36.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17944" CreationDate="2015-06-25T20:11:38.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A burnt valve can happen for one of many reasons, but the underlying issue is, the valve is not sealing correctly and allows hot engine gases during the combustion phase to leak past the seal which is formed by the valve and seat. When the seal is lost, the hot exhaust gases escape past the valve (can happen to either the intake or the exhaust valve, but is much more common on the exhaust) and wreak havoc. The burnt valve is usually not the cause of the issue, but more so the &lt;em&gt;outcome&lt;/em&gt; of a different issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal running 4-stroke engine has valves which allow for the incoming air/fuel mixture into the cylinder (or just air on direct injected engines) and for the outgoing exhaust fumes to escape out the tail pipe. Valves in and of themselves could not stand up to the extreme environment of the combustion process. When a valve closes and is sealed against the seat (which is embedded into the head), one of the salvation factors for the valve is heat transference. The head absorbs some of the heat which is collected by the valves. This heat is then transferred out to the coolant system, which takes it away from the area and allows things to run as we consider &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt;. If a valve, for whatever reason, is not allowed to close completely, a leak in both air/fuel during the compression cycle and exhaust during the combustion cycle occurs. This causes several different problems within the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinder power imbalance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If leak occurs on the intake side, it causes intake flow issues with other cylinders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burnt valves (due to escaping exhaust gases during the combustion cycle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A valve can get into non-sealing state for several reasons. These might include, but aren't limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon buildup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physical valve damage (broke valve seat, bent valve, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticking at the valve guide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Broke, damaged, or weak valve spring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one of these can cause a valve to stay open during the combustion event, which allows very hot gases to escape past the valve. Since it is not allowed to fully seat, there is nowhere for the excess heat to go. It stays at the valve head and damage soon occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T08:02:32.343" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T08:02:32.343" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2015-06-25T20:39:49.177" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If everything in the power steering system checks out, it could be a binding U joint: &lt;a href=&quot;http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2027-0007.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2027-0007.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6628" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T20:39:49.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T21:46:06.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so here's the full timeline on what's happened.  About a week or 2 ago I got a mower from a guy I know who wasn't using it.  It's an 18HP Craftsman LT1000.  The only issue he told me about is that the blade is a little bent in one spot and the battery needs to be jumped before it's used each time.  So, it obviously needs a new battery.  I tried it out after he dropped it off and it seemed to be working well.  I did notice that it needed more oil though.  I filled it until the stick said it was full and then put it away for the night.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it back out I started it up, there was a giant ball of smoke, and then it shut down.  I checked the oil again and saw that it was now saying that it was way over filled.  So, I drained off the excess oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I still can't get it started.  While I have it being jumped I can see something spinning in the engine but it never actually starts up, just keeps spinning.  I'm at a loss for what to do to get it up and running.  Any guidance would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11004" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T22:03:15.800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T22:03:15.800" Title="Can't get my riding mower to start, Craftsman LT1000" Tags="|starting|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T21:48:37.647" Score="3" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a problem with my French Ford. I replaced the engine a year ago although I'm not entirely sure the old one is dead (but it's run 380,000&lt;strong&gt;km&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for a couple of months the engine stops very often at red lights and sometimes chokes when I'm accelerating. It feels a bit as if I hit some 10 pounds obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know where this can come from. Any hints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4984" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T21:48:37.647" Title="Ford Focus TDCI (2003) chokes at red lights" Tags="|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17874" CreationDate="2015-06-25T22:00:57.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; replacing the Engine Crank Angle Sensor, which I believe is the one which is playing erratic. The sensor looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8J7pn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is the one you are looking at in the picture. Who knows why it's gone bad, but with the code you mentioned, this seems like the culprit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LldC6CuXYoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is a very good video on the replacement of the sensor.&lt;/a&gt; The only thing I'd say about what he does to replace it is, don't mess with the throttle while trying to crank your engine. On many (not sure about the VAG engines), your throttle position sensor will get screwy readings when you do that and your car won't run right again until you do a reset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, this is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; easy thing to do. You may even be able to do the exchange from the top side (instead of removing the cover). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T22:00:57.637" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T08:55:25.563" Score="4" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Audi A3 8PA 2005my 1.9tdi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Esp warning light is on and diagnosis with VCDS shows fault :-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;00493-ESP-Sensor unit (G419): No signal/Communication&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No other warning lights are showing. I have tried replacing the sensor unit with a refurbished one (10 year guarantee?) as the dealers wanted over £700 for one. Warning Light failed to clear, so the firm sent another one- still no joy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure if the fault is with the sensor unit (lateral acceleration) or something else as it could also be bad wiring or connectors from brake electronics, abs unit, to esp sensor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do I go about diagnosing and fixing the issue? &#xA;As there are two possible faults, sensor unit or connectors/wiring I felt it was best to eliminate the sensor so that is why I used the less expensive refurbished units. No way of knowing if they were in working order. Does anybody know how I could test the sensor unit to see if it is working, the original is back in the car? If this is the problem then I will replace with OEM and save time/expense testing connectors/wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to let you know, the ESP warning light first came on during a journey and stayed on for the rest of the day. The next day it was on first thing but during the day went out upon starting and stayed out for about 1/2 mile then came back on. It has stayed on ever since. Does this indicate anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11013" LastEditorUserId="11013" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T07:08:12.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T07:08:12.510" Title="ESP warning light on" Tags="|sensor|audi|esp-esc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17969" CreationDate="2015-06-26T13:05:12.483" Score="6" ViewCount="5732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a 98 Mazda 323 1.8L with a rebuilt engine.  Basically, a mechanic bought it cheap due to shot rings and rebuilt the engine to sell it at a profit.  He said it's the fifth engine he's rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I should look for to make sure he actually did the rebuild correctly?  Any particular questions I should ask or tests I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Engine%20Rebuilds.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All Rebuilt Engines are NOT Created Equal!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T13:40:27.477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T04:24:16.360" Title="What to Look for When Buying a Rebuilt Engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17967" CreationDate="2015-06-26T13:20:14.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a rebuilt engine it would cost you some money and/or time to open it back up again, and inspect the re-builder's work to see if it is well done or not. So, basically, you are going on trust: either you trust the mechanic to have used quality parts and done a good job of fitting them, or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best way to make sure would be to consult owners of his previous engine rebuilds. If they have had a good experience with his work, that will mean he can be trusted and you can go for it. A serious person will have no problems with putting you in touch with previous customers - he will know the feedback will be globally positive, and a good reputation is essential in this line of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T13:20:14.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17967" CreationDate="2015-06-26T13:29:35.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are general things which you can do and look for to examine the mechanics work. These are not fool proof, but should give you an indication of the level of work the mechanic produced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the exterior of the engine look clean? In order to do a good rebuild, you need to have a clean block and head. If they aren't clean, what do you think the inside of the engine would look like?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it appear to have new gaskets? If you look at the head gasket (should should be able to see it peaked out between the block and head), it should have a clean and fresh appearance. If you can see it and tell that it does not have that new look to it, the work was probably not done as suggested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can do a compression check on the engine, you can tell if the engine is up to snuff and working properly. This is very &lt;em&gt;non-subjective&lt;/em&gt;. Either the cylinder pressures will be at spec or they won't. If they aren't, the engine wasn't rebuilt correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is an oil pressure gauge on the dash, ensure the pressure is good. Before an engine is broke-in completely, the oil pressure will be a bit higher than normal. If you see the gauge and the pressure is down towards the low end, again, the engine was probably not rebuilt correctly. It should have plenty of oil pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does the engine area look like? Is there a lot of things not reconnected or does there look like things are missing? If so, you can probably trust the level of effort put into the engine is not up to par.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just a few things, but hopefully it will give you an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T13:29:35.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17971" CreationDate="2015-06-26T14:25:30.840" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the specifications for cylinder compression can I convert that to how much intake vacuum the engine should be pulling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have a 4 cylinder engine that is supposed to have about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CD4XDA4YUBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;180psi per cylinder&lt;/a&gt; can I convert that to an expected inches of mercury ( vacuum )?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T14:30:01.340" Title="Converting Cylinder Compression Specs to Inches of Vacuum" Tags="|compression|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17970" CreationDate="2015-06-26T14:30:01.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, it cannot be done. Vacuum is a direct relation to valve lift and timing, does not relate to compression ratio. The vacuum is drawn during the intake stroke. In a 4-stroke (cycle) engine, the intake and compression events are completely separate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T14:30:01.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T15:17:27.423" Score="4" ViewCount="3035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked in the motorcycle industry for a while. I've heard ridiculous claims of something called a &quot;skeleton key&quot; which could turn any ignition to &quot;on&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does something like this really exist? Is it purely for dealership purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there make specific skeleton keys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skeleton keys for automobiles or skeleton keys depending on the style ignition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T15:17:27.423" Title="Is there really such a thing as a skeleton key?" Tags="|ignition|key|locks|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:06:08.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the wiring to that little brass looking temperature sender on the coolant elbow where all the radiator pipes meet.  Make sure the connection is good and there is no corrosion on the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause could also be related to a bad or corroded earth behind the clocks in the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:06:08.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T17:40:36.900" Score="2" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to know that you're getting the window film that you were told it'll be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g., if I'm interested in an 78% Visible-Light-Transmission ceramic film with 43% Total Solar Energy Rejection from LLumar, or 71% VLT and 48% TSER from Hüper Optik USA, is there a way to ensure that I'm not instead getting some kind of a knock-off, e.g., a dyed or metallised tint instead, or a ceramic with lower VLT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm probably interested in purchasing a precut kit from the internet or possibly a local shop in Austin, TX.  Are there any kind of labels or certificates that are generally provided together with the films?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about 3M?  They seem to have a &lt;em&gt;Precision Fit Program&lt;/em&gt;, which offers &quot;Pre-cut, pre-shrunk window tint kits&quot; as &lt;em&gt;3M™ Precision Fit Kits&lt;/em&gt;, but they only appear to advertise it for dealerships; is there a way to just purchase the kit directly?  And if there is, what kind of packaging would it have to ensure that the kit is authentic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T11:55:40.740" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T11:55:40.740" Title="Is there a way to know that window film is what it's advertised?" Tags="|window|film|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25608" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:00:19.537" Score="6" ViewCount="8846" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About my bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: Honda CBR 250R &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Run: 35000kms &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Time: 2 years 3 months &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch Plate changed at 30k kms after an accident &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine oil, engine oil filter and air filter changed in last service&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem Statement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while back I observed that my bike is giving a very low mileage. It use to run 450 kms on a full tank (13 litres) while now it just runs 380kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if that happened after clutch plate change or last service. And am having hard time figuring out the true cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T22:32:41.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T16:58:14.617" Title="How to find the cause of sudden high fuel consumption of a motorbike?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:45:18.727" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my vehicles is exhibiting an increasing amount of what looks to be like clearcoat failure. Its that white patches or areas on the exterior that seems to multiply like a virus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of a total repaint, is there anything to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to prevent this type of problem in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7742" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T23:45:18.727" Title="Outside of a total repaint, can anything be done about clearcoat rot?" Tags="|exterior|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T18:29:22.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:10:43.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2014 Civic EX coupe, automatic, and about a week ago turned the Econ button off... the icon light on the dash turned off. I bought the car several months ago and it didn't occur to me until now to try this. Performance has been about the same, but my mileage has actually INCREASED 3-4 MPG! Go figure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11024" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:10:43.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:20:33.473" Score="3" ViewCount="9495" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generator is King Canada Model no. KCG-6500GE, the battery is 12v and is in good condition.  When I turn on the key to start it nothing happens, I do have power to the starter connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11025" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T01:38:10.930" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T01:15:27.670" Title="Portable generator starter problem" Tags="|electrical|starting|generator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17976" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:30:43.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue with shim and bucket valve trains.  As the valves are getting worn into the head a small groove is beat into the valve face after opening and closing so many times.  As the valve pushes up into the head it takes up clearance between the cam lobe and the bucket which the cam lobe depresses to push the valve in and open it to either release exhaust gasses or allow intake mixture into the the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possible Issue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the valve gap is taken up over time a new shim that is thinner needs to be inserted under the bucket.  This is a normal maintenance event to add clearance between the cam and the bucket.  If this is not done, a gap between the valve face and the head can form, typically this occurs on the exhaust side (don't ask me why) and the gap creates an exhaust leak, essentially allowing exhaust gasses to escape during the combustion process.  In the beginning stages of this, fuel mileage decreases as does performance.  In advanced stages the bike will not start or it will run extremely poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the valve clearance to fit within service limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:30:43.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2015-06-27T02:01:23.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you said you have power to the starter connection. Below is a diagram of where the starter is located, with the detail inset showing the solenoid off of the starter (starter motor just above it). I'm going to assume you know this (I made this and then realized you probably know this stuff ... I couldn't let a good graphic go to waste :D)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpNDm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't done so already, you need to test the solenoid to see if it has power. If you have a multimeter, check the big post (green arrow) on the solenoid to see if there is power going there. There should be power there directly from the battery. (If you don't have a multimeter, get one ... there are inexpensive models out there to be had.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is power there, you'll need to check to see if there is power at the energizer wire (red arrow) &lt;em&gt;when you turn the key&lt;/em&gt;. If there is power there when you turn the key, the issue might be in the solenoid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need to test it further by taking a long bladed screwdriver and jumping it across the two large posts on the solenoid. You'd only have to do this briefly to see if the starter turns the gennie engine over (you'll know very quickly). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the starter then moves then it is definitely the solenoid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there wasn't power at the energizer wire when you turn the key, the fault probably lies in the switch. You'll need to do some diagnosis on it to see if it is the issue, or if there is a wiring issue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T02:01:23.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8591" CreationDate="2015-06-27T02:08:25.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way that I know of which messing around with the fuses would cause your issue. I will assume at this point you replaced the fuse you moved to the tail lights, so this is not your problem. Sounds to me that there is a larger transmission problem happening here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T02:08:25.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T04:52:07.987" Score="2" ViewCount="2321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a simple radio, and i am trying to install it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the new radio the following wires exist:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;speakers: 2*grey, 2*pruple. 2*blue, 2*green.&#xA;Yellow - go to battery&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Black - go to ground&lt;br&gt;&#xA;red (acc) - go to ignition&lt;br&gt;&#xA;blue - power antena  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i went to the car, disassembled the current radio, exposed all the wires, and connected the new ones to existing ones.. all the color matched, in my previous installation there were additional wires:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yellow with black stroke on it - Ill (as illuminus)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Blue - Power source control&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yellow with white stroke - i dont know what is this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And ofcourse the black wire to connect the radio antena.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I connected all the wires, failed to connect My new radio blue wire () antena power) - where am i supposed to connect it ?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When i start the car, i only see red light coming from the radio, but it does not start, i push the on button, nothing happens.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Did i do something wrong ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXQoY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New radio&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6K4X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;current wires&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nRHFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what is this source control wire ?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhfCs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T18:55:41.320" Title="installing car radio - cords issue" Tags="|audio|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:15:55.007" Score="0" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the front brakes &amp;amp; rotors on my 2010 Chrysler Town and Country.  Now the front brakes will not release after driving it for awhile.  They both heat up and sound like they are grinding metal on metal when you try to stop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What could be the issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11028" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T20:13:16.187" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:13:16.187" Title="Brakes sticking in front [2010 Chrysler Town &amp; Country]" Tags="|brakes|chrysler|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T11:42:35.303" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to add a pressure gauge to a tire pump that has no pressure gauge? I was googling for pump hoses with built-in pressure gauge but couldn't find any. I was also looking for pressure gauges that can be attached to either end of the hose of the tire pump but found none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11029" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T12:23:12.157" Title="Equipping tire pump with pressure gauge" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T12:24:47.077" Score="6" ViewCount="34461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased my car second-hand a couple of years ago but I'm not sure anymore what are its exact specs, for instance in terms of engine power and stuff. Is there a way to know this easily, maybe some online database or something? The vehicle is a Citroen C3 Desire from 2003 with a 1360cc engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3316" LastEditorUserId="10644" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T12:28:07.500" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T19:37:54.607" Title="How to find out my car's specs?" Tags="|figures|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17992" CreationDate="2015-06-27T15:22:19.720" Score="3" ViewCount="3780" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highway code states that 'Cars, light vans and light trailers must have a tread depth of at least 1.6 mm across the central three-quarters of the breadth of the tread and around the entire circumference.'&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-maintenance-safety-security&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; if necessary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not fully understand this statement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In particular, what does 'the central three-quarters of the breadth of the tread' mean, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11030" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:58:42.490" Title="Explanation of phrase relating to tyre tread depth" Tags="|tires|maintenance|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17991" CreationDate="2015-06-27T15:42:08.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the tire straight on so you are looking at the tread (cannot see the rim). Look at the central 3/4 of the tire (~1/8th of the tire's edges on either side). This is the central 3/4 of the breadth of the tire. The tread in this area must be at least 1.6mm deep across this entire width, going all the way around the tire. This would include where the wear ribs are (small raised portion of rubber at the base of the tread). If the ribs are flush with the tire tread across any part of the tire, the tire needs to be replaced. Here's a graphic to help you. This is an approximation, but between the red lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFLKl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Look for these on the tire for the wear ribs (bars):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uffJF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T15:58:42.490" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:58:42.490" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17988" CreationDate="2015-06-27T15:49:32.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though things might not have been put back together correctly. The caliper is two pieces, one with the piston, the other with the bracket which attaches to the suspension. Ensure these are have free movement. They could be rusted inside. Next, check to ensure you put the right pad in the right place. The one with the &quot;squealer&quot; should be on the back side (though I don't know if it goes up or down ... usually it's on the leading edge as the rotor turns, which means it should be towards the back and/or bottom of the caliper, depending on caliper orientation). If they were not put back in correctly, this might be causing the binding. Also, as Alan Ward suggested, ensure the pistons are retracting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:49:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T02:02:04.983" Score="2" ViewCount="4564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my AC compressor fixed, but after doing this it turns out my AC still isn't great because of a messed up blend door (according to my mechanic). Apparently this is a fairly common problem in Fords.  I did some searching around, and didn't find great instructions for my exact model, but it seems like the repair can be done through the passenger side airbag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Escape-Hybrid-2006-2008-Mariner-Hybrid-2006-2008/Blend-Door-Actuator/Removal-Installation/_/P-0996b43f8075c084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Escape-Hybrid-2006-2008-Mariner-Hybrid-2006-2008/Blend-Door-Actuator/Removal-Installation/_/P-0996b43f8075c084&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering 1) how to actually remove the passenger side airbag, and 2) if this repair is possible to do myself. I guess that a lot of people do perform this themselves on Fords and others using these kits from heatertreater.com, but again I couldn't find anything for my model. The heatertreater requires cutting into the plenum, which I'm hoping I won't have to do if the blend door is accessible through the passenger air bag opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks anyone for the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11035" LastEditorUserId="11035" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T15:40:27.333" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T00:51:31.087" Title="Can a blend door be easily fixed/replaced in a Ford Escape Hybrid 2006? Also, passenger side airbag removal?" Tags="|ford|ac|hvac|supplemental-restraint-system|escape|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:17:22.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car has an owner's manual, then you can find the details under technical specifications, which is usually the last section&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model series - Citroen C3[A8]&#xA;Engine code - KFV&#xA;Engine designation - TU3JP&#xA;Capacity - 1,36 L&#xA;Cylinders - 4&#xA;Power - 55 kW/ 75PS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model series - Citroen C3[A8] 16V&#xA;Engine code - KFU&#xA;Engine designation - ET3J4&#xA;Capacity - 1,36 L&#xA;Cylinders - 4&#xA;Power - 65 kW/ 88PS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastEditorUserId="10553" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T04:49:40.440" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T04:49:40.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25986" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:23:52.013" Score="4" ViewCount="26711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the PCV valve of my Toyota Vitz 2007 some time back, due to oil level reducing. After I got the car back from the mechanic, it had this weird behavior of making a sudden jerk after five or six seconds when car is stopped in traffic. Also, it jerked when shifted to drive gear from parking gear. Jerk is not that violent and it does not make the stopped car actually move forward. Its like the car is trying to jump forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about a week or so, this got automatically fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I repaired the car again from the same mechanic, this time a soldering job of an electrical cable which supplies power to one of the spark plugs. After I got the car back, it showed similar jerking behavior. Now its been three or four days and jerking has got resolved to some extent, but still car does not feel the same as it previously was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(About the soldering job, two wires which supplied power to a spark coil had been damaged at the point the wires connect to the socket at spark coil. Mechanic told me that its hard to find spare sockets so he soldered the wires. But I don't think the cause of jerking is related to this, because the same behavior occurred previously too, when there was nothing wrong with the wires)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the mechanic whether he did anything else other than soldering the cables, but he said no. But, he should have disconnected the battery, because the time in the dashboard clock was incorrect when I got the car back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My car had been idling roughly for some time now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Earlier the gas mileage was about 12.5km/l. But from few months back, it has droped to about 10km/l.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the repair, when the car is at a stop, it does not properly go&#xA;forward when I release the break (without stepping on the gas&#xA;paddle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for this jerking behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="11037" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T12:56:30.990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T11:41:34.003" Title="Car jerks when stopped in traffic" Tags="|toyota|surging|vitz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18030" CreationDate="2015-06-28T11:09:04.597" Score="2" ViewCount="7815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have discovered a leak on the roof of my Honda Accord Tourer, most likely either through what appears to be the seam of the roof and side, or where the roof rails mount to the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to seal this up, but unsure what method / product would be the best. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T12:13:09.757" Title="Sealing a roof leak" Tags="|leak|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T11:38:24.847" Score="1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dodge Ram 2500&#xA;1st start of day, turns over and starts. &#xA;After extended drive time it becomes harder to start and as day becomes warmer/hotter. &#xA;Temps are hitting the 90's and 100+ Fahrenheit. &#xA;Heat issues? Starter issues?&#xA;I'm unsure and don't want to pay for 'could be'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11039" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T12:54:48.403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T12:54:48.403" Title="Hard to start in the summer" Tags="|engine|starting|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-23T02:53:16.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T14:37:28.300" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kia Sportage has been running on only two of 4 cylinders. The 2 plugs don't fire at all even when they are replaced. The coil works perfectly if they are interchanged. Wires are in perfect condition. Using a different engine control unit enables one additional plug to fire, but gears don't change. With the original unit, gears change but performance is low and there is constant jerking/vibration. Do I have a way out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11042" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T00:28:06.023" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T07:37:53.620" Title="Misfiring plugs" Tags="|sparkplugs|kia|sportage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-23T02:45:27.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T16:26:25.540" Score="3" ViewCount="73446" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son was cutting the grass the other day and stopped.  After he stopped the lawn mower wouldn't go into gear.  1-6 or reverse, nothing.  The blade still engages and turns however it seems to have an issue disengaging, but minor and still worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belts appear to be on the pulleys and the shifter is moving the entire mechanism down to the transmission (however I can't see past the arm on the left side).  Also the lawn mower moves freely (I can push it) in any gear where before I had to put it in neutral to push it.  What are the next steps of troubleshooting this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addition:  The drive pulley is moving obviously because the blade engages.  But I did notice that the drive belt is pretty loose.  When I pull on the drive belt and the engine is on and in gear it starts to slightly move.  It seems that the gear mechanism should be moving the belt tighter but it doesn't seem to be doing anything when I look at it.  [So when I put it into 1st gear on my right side the gear mechanism pushes the bar and clutch mechanism on the left rear axle but this seems to do nothing and the belt is just sitting there slightly loose.  I am not sure if the belt is stretched too much or if there is something that is supposed to pull on the belt or a pulley or what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another update:  Clutch idler is working fine.  Also I put some gloves on and pulled on the drive belt while it was in gear (I do not recommend this to others).  The belt is just really really loose but still on all of the pulley and functions perfect fine when I put enough force on it.  How did my belt get this loose?  Is this indicative of anything else wrong?  Is there any way to fix this without getting a new belt?  Any else I should look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;model 917.289031&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9224" LastEditorUserId="9224" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T21:23:18.317" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T06:38:06.180" Title="Craftsman lawn mower won't move" Tags="|clutch|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18008" CreationDate="2015-06-28T17:16:53.733" Score="2" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that the A/C compressor runs with the engine belt, so it will always uses some HP when engaged, therefore it will have some effect on fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know if there are other convenience features that can affect fuel economy. I'm interested particularly in this list of features because this is what my car has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio/music&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heated seats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heated wind shields&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heated mirrors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm air from the vents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabin fan speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think all of this components runs on electricity, and since (I think) the battery is always being recharged every time the engine is running, I don't believe they have an effect on fuel consumption, but I wanted to be sure anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6841" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T03:23:24.450" Title="Which convenience features in a car affects fuel economy?" Tags="|electrical|ac|fuel-consumption|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:37:28.783" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have reworked all the carborators on the motorcycle. All seemed well but once it was put in gear, it stalled. What do I need to look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11044" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T22:31:56.937" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:31:56.937" Title="2005 Suzuki Katana stalls when put in gear" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|stall|katana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18006" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:40:45.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, ALL of the convienences mentioned above reduce the fuel economy of a car, any electircal system you use will affect the fuel economy,to understand why we must know how these systems are powerd exactly, its not as as you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery operates when you start the car, the moment the car is started the , the power to run the electric appliances and to charge the battery on the car is generated from a device called the &amp;quot;Alternator&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xycte.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black COG is connected to the crankshaft of the engine with a belt just like the compressor of the air conditioner, and runs off of the engine power, think of it as a electric generator for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this produces AC current which is sent through a Rectifier to be converted into DC voltage and that is sent to the battery to be recharged, most of the electrical things on your car run of the battery  where the alternator provides additional amps to the system while charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The the amount of voltage produced by the Alternator is proportional to the engine RPM and  the Alternator is at best 50 to 60% efficient meaning it only converts 50% of the mechanical energy into electrical energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO when you are in low speed running all those electrical you are straining the Alternator and making it to rob the engine of additional HP thus ultimately reducing fuel economy, once you reach considerable amount of speed then the effect is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All said, the fuel economy being affected by these electrical are actually not very noticeable in everyday driving in comparison to say an Air-Con or driving rashly which will produce noticeable drop on economy, the only place where this knowledge will be useful is either if your running a race or about to go empty and searching for a petrol station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T03:23:24.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:58:26.260" Score="2" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Mazda 626. I drove 5hrs the other day from WA to OR. Traffic was horrible and it was blistering hot. I had my A/C going most of the time, although at one point it started blowing hot air so I switched to having the windows open. I got to my husband's house, came back out 20 minutes later and there was a huge puddle on the pavement on the passenger side. I wanted to check it, but we were running really late so I didn't touch it. Didn't use the A/C for the rest of the day, no more puddles. I have to make the drive again this week and am worried. Is something wrong with my A/C? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T20:06:55.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T20:06:55.443" Title="Puddle under passenger side of car/ A/C blowing hot air" Tags="|ac|mazda|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18009" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:03:17.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water under the passenger side of the car is normal when running your A/C. The evaporator which is inside the car is located under the dash on the passenger side. When it cools the air, water condensates off of it, the water drips down into a catch basin, then goes through a tube which drains on that side of the car. What is not normal is that your A/C was not cooling properly. My suggestion is that your refrigerant is low, so is not cooling up to snuff. It only has to cool the air down past the dew point and it will draw water out of the air, even though it isn't really cold enough to cool the inside of the cabin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you or your husband feels comfortable in doing this, there are ways you can check the refrigerant in your vehicle. I like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn0C9jPOAAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AC Pro Recharge Kit&lt;/a&gt; because it takes into account temperature variation which is needed to ensure you have the proper amount of refrigerant in your system. Since your system is pulling water out of the air, it is working to an extent. It just isn't doing a very good job of it. It is fairly easy to accomplish, so I wouldn't have any fear of doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not feel comfortable doing it, you'll need to take the vehicle to a place which can service your car for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T20:03:17.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18012" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:19:52.747" Score="5" ViewCount="20757" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my standard 2000 1.2 Opel Agila, I often have to get to about 5000RPM to join a fast road on a steep (1 in 10) hill, as it is gutless on hills. I have to do this almost every day, and I have occasionally gone to the redline (at 6300-6500RPM) just to get some speed up to join, as you start off from a standing start, as the junction is really badly designed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I won't drive constantly at the redline, but I would get to it and then shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My oil is changed every 10k miles, and I service it regularly. Would doing it every 20k miles like it says increase the chance of damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is chain driven. The milage is 85k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this damage my car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I had a quick flick through the manual, and it says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Max. permissible engine speed,                    Z12XE&#xA;continuous operation (rpm)                        6250&#xA;approx &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the redline is at 6500...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T20:51:20.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:49:47.483" Title="Does using the entire rev range of a car damage it?" Tags="|engine|rpm|vauxhall|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18011" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:44:33.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines are designed to withstand a certain amount of stress. When you exceed that threshold, longevity will start to deteriorate. I stated something to that effect in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/16868/4152&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. The engine has a redline where you shouldn't take its speed past. This redline is not the maximum speed which the engine can run, but more correctly the &lt;em&gt;threshold&lt;/em&gt; which you shouldn't go past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, if you are approaching the redline, but not exceeding it, you should not be doing your engine any damage. Theoretically it should be able to handle this. Prolonged use at redline will definitely reduce the longevity of the engine. If you consider, though, that if an engine only has so many revolutions it will go before it expires, running it at the higher RPM will wear it out faster. Does that mean it will fail tomorrow? Most definitely not. It may mean it will last a week less than what it should have otherwise, or some other arbitrary number. The biggest thing you can do for your engine is to ensure it is properly maintained (as it sounds you are) which includes things like oil/filter changes, air filter changes, and spark plugs (and wire if so equipped). As long as you are sticking to what the manufacturer says, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:49:47.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T21:39:49.587" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my ignition there are a couple positions, on, off, lock, and p. I assumed the lock was for the handle bar lock, but it doesn't lock when I switch it to that, when I switch it to P though it occasionally locks, but the front turn signals and the brake lights also come on when it's in P, so it's not really ideal for parking somewhere for a while haha I assume the Lock is for long term locking, and P is just for temporary? My question is why wont the handlebars lock when it's switched to the lock position? I can see the locking pin too that locks the handlebars, it moves a little in the lock position too, but fully engaged in P position. Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="9982" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T00:24:26.130" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:15:32.203" Title="1987 Yamaha fz700 handlebar lock" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|locks|yamaha|parking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18018" CreationDate="2015-06-28T21:51:29.363" Score="6" ViewCount="26228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a generator that uses a Briggs and Stratton 17hp Vanguard engine. Before purchasing the generator, it had not ran in several years. The fuel was stale and the oil needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My DIY experience is extremely limited but I decided to work on it anyways. After replacing all of the gasoline, adding fuel cleaner and fuel stabilizer, I ran the generator for 10 minutes. It ran beautifully. I turned the generator off and then changed the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I wanted to use some carburetor cleaner that I was recommended. I asked my neighbor if he could give me a hand with this part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to run the generator the next day. It ran fine for four minutes and then died. I started it again and it died after about ten seconds. I noticed that gas was actually &lt;em&gt;pouring out of the exhaust&lt;/em&gt;. After a few more attempts, I brought my neighbor over to have a look at it again. When starting the generator for him there was a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of white smoke and the engine immediately died. After further inspection, he determined that what he thought was the carburetor, was actually the &lt;strong&gt;fuel pump&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My neighbor says I should replace the needle valve and the fuel pump. He also thinks that the oil was too high (thus causing the white) smoke. I ordered/replaced the fuel pump and needle valve and then checked the oil to find that it was &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too full and smelled of gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next step is to flush the oil by repeatedly filling/emptying until I do not smell gas. I also plan on replacing some of the fuel lines that are in bad shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: could there be something else wrong with the engine that I am missing? Do I need to replace the carburetor float as well? Any tips would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11043" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T16:14:39.530" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T00:20:45.720" Title="What causes too much fuel for my Briggs and Stratton engine?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|oil-change|carburetor|small-engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18007" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:31:09.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a sidestand switch that kills the motor if you attempt to put it into gear with the sidestand down, it's a safety measure.  Check that switch at the top of your sidestand to see if the a mount bolt or nut has fallen out thereby loosening the switch and making the vehicle inoperable when you put it into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:31:09.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:40:07.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;screaming aero graphix make decals for aircraft panels with similar nominclature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11047" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:40:07.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:54:09.220" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had an issue with a 1995 Civic cooling. It worked 2 months ago. I will try to be specific. I have studied HVAC, Compressors in Blgs, just not vehicles so I know the system somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will NOT light up the recirculated AIR button to be Orange (some times) like yesterday + absolutely no cooling on 91 Degree day.  The Green one lit up for Outside Air. &lt;strong&gt;What is the ORANGE RECIRULATED AIR button pilot light for?&lt;/strong&gt; Why does it turn the orange light on? Why doesn't it turn the light on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you need to turn it to inside re-circulation air,and NOT mix hot outside air into vehicle. I have been wondering and asking about the pilot light for...about 17 years.&#xA;Would it indicate a problem? Would it not lighting up mean the compressor is not engaging clutch or mean anything ? If I am charging like yesterday and it will not take the R134 into low side port but spills all over the charge can and my hand is it already full of a charge ? 5-6 months ago I successfully charged it with A/C Pro / R-134a A/C pro premium.It got cool as heck,very good and compressor cycling. Now no pressure appears in the little AC Pro gauge why is that ? Should I change out the control board ? I can switch that out but hate to do it for no reason. Please if you can,help with the ORANGE Recirc. Button question, also quick method to tell (test) if control panel is scrap or relay is the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11048" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:09:32.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:09:32.033" Title="AC Honda DX Civic 95 not cooling button for recirc AIR unlit" Tags="|honda|civic|ac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18014" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:05:19.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely what the problem is, your float in the fuel bowl is shot. When the float is shot (ie: doesn't float correctly in the fuel), too much fuel is let into the carburetor and causes the exact issues you are talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get a new float and needle valve (very likely), but you may just be better off buying a new carburetor. There are two reasons I say this: 1) there may be more wrong with your carburetor than just the float; 2) the whole carburetor usually doesn't cost too much and is an easy replacement item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fuel pump ... I didn't think these smaller engines &lt;em&gt;came with a fuel pump&lt;/em&gt;? Every small B&amp;amp;S engine I've seen works off of gravity feed for gasoline. Even if it does have a fuel pump, wouldn't it seem to you that &lt;em&gt;having too much gas&lt;/em&gt; means the pump is working? The opposite would be true if it weren't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't done so, you'll want to change out the oil in the engine before you do anything. Bad oil as you have may cause damage to the rings and bearings. You'll have to run fresh oil anyway, so might as well change it as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to mention. When you do get this fixed, install an inline fuel cut-off valve. When you finish using the generator, switch it to off while it's running and run the generator out of fuel (without a load on it). In doing so, the carburetor will be nearly if not completely dry. This will make for happier starting the next time you go to use the generator. Just make sure you turn the valve to &quot;on&quot; before you start to crank it ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T00:05:19.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18005" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:27:00.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me as though the clutching idler pulley is not releasing. If you get a look under the left hand side (as you are sitting on it), you should be able to see both belts riding off of the engine pulleys. If you have your son actuate the clutch while you are looking at it, you should see the clutching pulley move. These are nothing more than a slip clutch, where when the belt does not have tension, it doesn't grip; when it does have it, the mower goes. Your clutch linkage may be disconnected or broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZdZE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T00:27:00.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25449" CreationDate="2015-06-29T03:10:08.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a change oil and then change spark plugs (from normal copper to platinum if that matters) and high tension wires for my Protégé 2000 Mazda Automatic Transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior change my idling RPM is at 1000 and when I turn on the AC, it drops at 900 with slight vibration. After the changes, both idling (with or without AC) are at 800~900 RPM but both have slight vibrations now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this ok or normal? Do I need to have the mechanic adjust the idling slightly up (is this even possible)? Or what is your opinion regarding this? I'd like to remove the slight vibration on both idling if that is favorable. Or are there any other thing I need to have check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T00:56:37.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T01:52:09.950" Title="Slight vibration while idling" Tags="|mazda|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T07:59:19.753" Score="4" ViewCount="83276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does he mean to say that my engine doesn't disengage completely when the clutch is released, if that's the case then my clutch would wear out. Am I correct in thinking so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T12:43:56.797" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T23:39:40.290" Title="My mechanic asks me to press the clutch pedal while starting engine during winter" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18024" CreationDate="2015-06-29T11:07:25.503" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be pushing the clutch pedal to start the engine no matter what time of year it is. There is a clutch safety switch which needs to be engaged in order for your ignition to work when you turn the key. It can only be engaged when you press down on the clutch pedal. This is to prevent you from trying to start the car while it's in gear. Just a safety feature they installed in cars a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T12:11:34.550" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:11:34.550" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17797" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:02:27.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no pictures exist on the internet (that can be found) on where exactly the drain comes out at, hopefully this picture will help describe how you can help yourself figure this out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQgqo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKKZGJA5dfs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; of a guy removing the AC box from an e46 330i. In the above circled area is the drain location on the AC box itself. This would correlate to the center of the car, directly over the front half of the transmission. You will have to get under the car (make sure it is safely placed on jack stands) and look from the back of the car forward at the end of the transmission, between the transmission tunnel (floor of the car) and the top of the transmission. If you can squeeze yourself in there right, you should be able to see all the way forward enough to see where the drain comes down through the floor and to where it goes. It should be about the only thing which is in this position (remember: center forward portion of the transmission). Through looking at all of the other BMW photos, I can tell you that BMW has placed the drain on the left side, the right side, on both sides, and has just let it drain on top of the transmission. Your guess is as good as mine. What I can tell you is, it will be a soft rubber hose. Depending on the angles which it will bet to actually get to the AC box, it may not be easy to clear any blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:02:27.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18039" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:11:17.457" Score="5" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kawasaki recently launched the H2R motorcible. The world’s only supercharged production hypersport streetbike. This bike has 326 bhp. I saw few videos of this incredible bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about the flames that come out of the exhaust system. Because I saw at most of the videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How dangerous is this flames for the care of the motorbike? Where this flames came from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At0g-t5xH8Y&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At0g-t5xH8Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11032" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:17:13.273" Title="Kawasaki H2R flames come out of exhaust system" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18024" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:25:36.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally always start the car with my foot on the clutch pedal as a matter of good practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start the car this way then you put very slightly less strain on the starter motor as it's not having to spin the entire clutch assembly or any shafts within the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:25:36.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21667" CreationDate="2015-06-29T13:46:02.850" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a morning I get in the car and press the clutch and start the car using the button as normal but sometimes I can hear the car trying to turn over but nothing happens, then if I turn it off and try again it fires up as normal.&#xA;Also Im not sure if it has anything to do with it but when I am in idle for a long period of time the car has a progressive violent rhythmical jerk. I have used injector cleaner a few times but it still happens.&#xA;The car is a 1.4 16v petrol and idles at 750rpm (i dont know if thats normal) I have also just cleaned the throttle body and put the car through a service. It has around 65k on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11056" LastEditorUserId="11056" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T12:43:17.817" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T12:44:21.957" Title="megane 2 2005 (55 plate UK) issues starting" Tags="|ignition|megane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18000" CreationDate="2015-06-29T13:59:15.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went down the route of some all weather sealant in the end, covered the entire channel where the two panels meet, along with each mounting point for the roof rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before applying I removed any previous sealant and cleaned with degreaser, seems to have applied well, fingers crossed it keeps the water out when it next rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T13:59:15.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15875" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:30:26.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to.&#xA;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11059" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T16:05:50.713" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:05:50.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T15:13:14.553" Score="4" ViewCount="2032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do manufacturers use nonstandard bolt head types?  Is it just to make it more difficult to the DIY-er to get away from visiting a dealership?  It was already too much work to dig down to the cylinder heads on my Tacoma, just to find out that the head bolts are not regular hex heads.  They &lt;strong&gt;look like&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;triple square&lt;/code&gt; but I just learned they are actually not and are &lt;code&gt;double hex&lt;/code&gt; instead.  Why all of this seemingly unnecessary confusion ?  Is there a practical reason to use something other than standard that most people have tools for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cRsRk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T16:33:35.780" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T13:44:32.340" Title="Why do manufacturers use different bolt types on cylinder heads?" Tags="|fastener|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2015-06-29T16:21:05.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand the answer to this very simple and logical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When someone might be attempting to DIY a fix and have a particular socket that fits a nut, they may just turn it not realizing what loosening the bolt may do.  As a result there are less accidentally loosened head bolts.  If you are a DIY person, which I am, I don't have a real issue with the specialty bolt.  If I don't have the tool already, I'll get get after I purchase the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T21:48:30.407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T21:48:30.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T09:50:04.700" Score="4" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the quickest way to remove material scraped onto a car's paintwork from another car's plastic wingmirror? Removing even a small amount is so far taking a large amount of elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="h34" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:22:03.380" Title="Removing material scraped onto car paintwork from plastic wingmirror" Tags="|cleaning|car|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18037" CreationDate="2015-06-28T03:26:45.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard automotive repair practice is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JKGJ2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polishing compound&lt;/a&gt; for light-to-moderate finish removal, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00009V3ZE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubbing compound&lt;/a&gt; for rapid, heavy removal of material; these can be found at most auto supply stores and even supermarkets, as well as online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware you're removing a bit of the auto's finish, as well as the transferred paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not remove too much paint, i.e. go down to primer, or major repainting will be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After cleanup, apply a good paste &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nicoclub.com/wax-after-rubbing-compound-t484795.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wax&lt;/a&gt; to protect the area where paint was removed and to restore gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DrMoishe Pippik" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T03:26:45.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2015-06-29T16:27:54.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phenomenon of flames coming out of the exhaust of any vehicle is called a &lt;strong&gt;Backfire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when you either run rich or lean in the power stroke of the combustion which is not completely burnt , it is sent through the exhaust which obviously being hot reignites with the outside air on contact creating the Backfire effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be of two types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unintended&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually super cars and in this case the Kawasaki H2R which have extreme degrees of free flow exhausts and when the diver lets go of the throttle the ECU sometime leave an extra spark to keep the vehicle in power range while shifting gears. So the when the exhaust valves open not all of the fuel is burnt and is sent out of the exhaust which since being a free flow rapidly ignites with the outside air causing flames to shoot out with a pop sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intended&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sports cars(almost all rally cars) have something called as a ALS or Anti lag system this system , the system purposely ignites the exhaust air laden with fuel to create a secondary exposing causing the turbocharger which works on the exhaust to spool up prematurely thus reducing the turbo lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People often try to achieve backfire  for thrill seeking and fun proposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to Answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where this flames came from?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dig deep into the whole concept of backfire you must know that the backfire happens outside the combustion chamber either in the induction system or the exhaust system. The flames you see are the ones from the exhaust system as explained above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How dangerous is this flames for the care of the motorbike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backfire in the Induction system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Valve timing is not proper ie, if the intake valves open even before the combustion is complete then there are chances that the flames might propagate up the intake and explode there which is destructive to the engine and is seriously harmful. This can destroy intake manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backfire in the Exhaust system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the more common form and the causes are the above mainly free flow exhaust and delay in exhaust valve timing.This type of backfire is not harmful to the engine and does not cause a serious issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:27:54.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18024" CreationDate="2015-06-29T16:42:49.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting the engine in Neutral (manual gearbox) &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; depressing the clutch means the starter will have to get the engine parts moving, but also the main (input) shaft on the gearbox. Cold temperatures affect not only the oil in the engine, but also the lubricant inside the gear box. Thus the starter motor will have to contend with the slightly thicker oil within the gearbox at lower temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you drive, the gearbox oil heats up progressively due to friction between moving parts and also the oil itself getting into motion. As it heats up, it also thins out, giving better lubrication and making it easier for the driver to change gears (the gears enter better). Transmission oil also has the double viscosity grading system, such as &quot;EP 75W/90&quot;: 75 when cold, 90 when warmed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both the engine and the gearbox oils are at working temperature, the engine may be started in Neutral without depressing the clutch. However, as pointed out by @Paulster2, best practice is still to depress the clutch when starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:42:49.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18055" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:46:55.327" Score="1" ViewCount="8952" Body="&lt;p&gt;How hard are boxer engines to work on and how common are they?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'm looking at a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza#First_generation_.281992.E2.80.932000.3B_GC.2C_GF.2C_GM.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Subaru Impreza&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1.6L EJ16&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat-four_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boxer engine&lt;/a&gt; ( which seems to be in very good condition ) and am wondering how difficult it would be to either work on it myself or find a mechanic who is familiar with this type of engine other than at a Subaru dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T18:56:36.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T21:48:58.863" Title="Are Boxer Engines Easy to Work On?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-06-30T16:31:07.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T17:57:34.377" Score="2" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 92 Ford Explorer knocks a bit when I switch gears. No matter what gear I switch to... (park to drive, drive to reverse, drive to neutral, neutral to park, it doesn't matter)... the car just rocks a bit forward just one jolt. What is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also... after long drives (like 25 miles), when I shut off the car, I can hear a bit of bubbling coming from the coolant/wiper fluid reservoir. Is this bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:45:21.727" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T13:45:21.727" Title="Transmission knocking and coolant bubbling?" Tags="|ford|transmission|overheating|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:00:30.537" Score="3" ViewCount="2507" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I have most of my engine taken apart pretty much for a head gasket replacement, I noticed it has, over the 8 years and 120+K miles, collected a fair amount of carbon blowby inside the cylinder heads and intake manifold, as well as oil crud on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I clean the blowby inside the cylinder heads, valve covers and intake manifold with Seafoam and what should I use to apply it?  Possible options include but are not limited to abrasive wire sponges, wire brushes, rough shop rags and smooth microfiber cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of the intake manifold are below.  Please note that the excessive blowby buildup could be due to the fact that maybe my oil was mixing with the coolant due to the blown head gaskets as well as that maybe PCV was recycling fuel mixed with oil.  But that should be outside the scope of this question.  I do not have pictures of inside the valve covers, which has more crud than the cylinder heads (almost none) but less than the pictured intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICDVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rABRB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spgcI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:43:06.740" Title="Cleaning blowby with Seafoam" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:21:53.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;well it depends on several things :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- the manufacture assembly arm and it's standards ( it may be fixed for some strict type of bolts) or the double hex bolts is easier for the machine to mesh with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- the space around the bolt head&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- specific mechanical design ( stress , strain , stiffness , high Temp duty )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best regards,&#xA;&lt;br&gt;I'm a specialized Mechanical design Engineer  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11066" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:21:53.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18043" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:43:06.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I believe you are misunderstanding what &quot;blowby&quot; is. Blowby is caused when the air/fuel mixture is passing by the compression rings (top rings) in the cylinder. &lt;em&gt;Every&lt;/em&gt; vehicle suffers from blowby to some extent (unless they use gapless rings). The extent is usually dictated by how old the engine is and how well maintenance has been done to it. New engines will have less blowby than older engines. Blowby can be detected at the oil filler cap and at the PCV. The gasses that go through your engine due to blowby will have a greater amount of hydrocarbons in them, which is why you have a PCV. The buildup from that is usually in the vicinity of where the PCV is located, though. What you are seeing at the edge of the port is more than likely carbon buildup left behind because this is near where the injectors fire at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I'd highly suggest you use carburetor cleaner and a wire (or small bristle) brush (shaped like a tooth brush) to get the carbon deposits cleaned out. If you have access to a parts cleaner, I'd highly suggest you use that. It will get the parts cleaner than any other method. If all you have is Seafoam, use the spray can stuff (I think it's called &lt;em&gt;Deep Creep&lt;/em&gt;) instead of the regular Seafoam. It should work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:43:06.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18042" CreationDate="2015-06-29T18:53:54.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My 92 Ford Explorer knocks a bit when I switch gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your u-joints. Park the Explorer with the emergency brake on, leaving it in neutral (flat ground, please). Crawl under your vehicle and grab the drive shaft and turn it to see if there is any movement difference or makes any noise. Also, push it in different directions (up/dow) to see if there is movement or noise. If there is a problem there, you should be able to detect movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I shut off the car, I can hear a bit of bubbling coming from the coolant/wiper fluid reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are two very different places on your vehicle. One (the wiper fluid reservoir) will not have anything happening to it as described (no way for this to happen). Which leaves us at the coolant overflow reservoir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; witnessed it happening, or are you just hearing noise and assuming that's what you are hearing? If you are assuming, I'd state what you are hearing is more than likely the gurgling noise of an AC unit, which would be perfectly normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have actually witnessed the overflow gurgling, you may have weak radiator cap which is not holding the pressure like it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T18:53:54.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:12:11.747" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '92 Ford Explorer.. I have no high beams!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a big deal.. but I'd like to have them if I ever needed them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights and everything else works fine, but when I turn on the high beams (and see the blue high beam signal light up on my dash), there's no light at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I replace the bulbs or do I have to replace the entire unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of these bulbs would I get if I can??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:47:25.787" Title="High beam bulbs burnt out?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:17:36.210" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just go to Walmart and buy any 'ol $30 stereo that has auxiliary and just take my old one out and expect it to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I looking at a bigger task than I'm expecting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I want to replace it is because: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would love to be able to connect my phone to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The current (factory) radio is all fuzzy. Only the back speakers give reliable sound, so I have the fade set all the way to &quot;B&quot; to only play out of the backspeakers. If I put it right in the middle, it &lt;em&gt;CRACKLE CRACKLE CRACKLES&lt;/em&gt; as I turn the Fade dial, and only sometimes will it actually play out of the front speakers..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a good idea to try cleaning the stereo electrical contacts and see if that fixes the issue, but I don't know if I can take the knobs off of this old factory stereo? If so, how? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..If I can replace the stereo, how do I take off the dash? I read somewhere that you have to unscrew the 2 bolts in the ashtray and then slowly pop off the dash covering... then there's 4 holes on the stereo that you need to insert something in each one to pop them all out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that was done, what am I looking at as far as putting in the new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw lots of people have problems with some sort of &quot;amp&quot;? I also read that this amp is only present on ones with &quot;Premium&quot; sound? How do I know if I have premium sound? I read that I can find out by looking on the back of 1 of the speakers in the door panel? So I'll do that later.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have premium sound, I'll have to do something with the amp which is somewhere on the passenger side by my understanding... what exactly will I have to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T08:51:07.693" Title="Replacing stereo in 92 Ford Explorer" Tags="|replace|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:22:46.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first truck... it's a '92 Ford Explorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the Red Brake Light and Yellow Rear Antilock lights on at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read online multiple times that this means something about being low on fluid? It appears to me that my brake fluid container under the hood is at just the right level..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier I was driving in the rain. I've never really driven a heavier truck in these conditions... and needless to say, I took a right turn at about 15MPH and totally fishtailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was all very slow, but still quite scary for me. The back end went wayyy left and the car kept going straight. Since I've never experienced this, I kinda slammed on the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, since I wasn't going too fast, the weight of the front right tire hitting the curb was enough to stop me. I simply reversed and continued down the road, taking it much much slower this time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However.. why did it do this? I wasn't going fast at all. I might be wrong about this, but I really didn't do anything out of the ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Rear Antilock light being on somehow relate to this since it's a Rear Wheel Drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that happened, I went to the gas station and checked the tire pressure. On the driver's side door sticker it said Front and Back tires should be 30 PSI so I did that. They were all filled to around 30PSI I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires look fine and have decent tread.. but they could be a bit older and needing some replacement, regardless of how good the tread is, ya know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... I just wanted to know if the Rear Antilock light somehow related to this dangerous fishtail... I could have hurt myself or someone else!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anywho... why are these 2 lights on and how can I go about troubleshooting them?! Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T22:14:47.630" Title="Fishtailed so easily? Bad tires? ABS?" Tags="|tires|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:55:45.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having had to work in tight spaces, I say it's very useful to have a bolt which you can turn in less than one-sixth turn. What I mean is, that bolt can be turned with a common hex tool, but sometimes you don't have the freedom of movement to rotate it 1/6, this way you can find the position that suits you best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I've been clear enough, sorry if I have not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11068" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T22:47:20.360" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T22:47:20.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T20:25:47.503" Score="7" ViewCount="2956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to take my timing chains (one master and two connecting each V6 sides' double cams) off on my 2007 V6 Tacoma to reach to replace my head gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I do have relatively specific instructions how to assemble them back together, is there any definitive test (e.g. by turning the crankshaft and observing the cams turning) that I can perform to make sure I did it right before closing the engine and putting the liquids back in, as to avoid having to reopen it (many hours of work) in case I messed it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T18:41:28.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:45:31.547" Title="How to test timing chain/belt assembly before sealing engine closed?" Tags="|toyota|timing-belt|tacoma|valve-timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18054" CreationDate="2015-06-29T20:48:36.570" Score="1" ViewCount="2693" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Apologies in advance for the lengthy post.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2006 Infiniti G35 Coupe, 6-speed manual, 112K miles. I bought the car from a friend when it had about 50k miles. He had the car for the previous 30k miles. We are both sticklers for maintenance and both used synthetic oil (typically Mobil 1) exclusively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car has never burned or leaked a drop of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car in to &lt;a href=&quot;http://kwikkardfw.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kwik Kar&lt;/a&gt; a couple of weeks ago for an oil change. While I was there, the mechanic recommended an engine flush. (I've since learned that this isn't really recommended for such a high-mileage engine.), as well as a power steering flush and something else I can't remember. (The receipt is in the glove box of the car, currently sitting at Kwik Kar.) This is the type of flush that involves flushing the oil with some sort of additive / solvent / ??, not the one where some mysterious substance is injected into the intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-3 days after the flush, I noticed an obnoxious rattle when starting the car. Over the next couple of weeks, it got progressively worse. I took the car back to the same Kwik Kar. The (different) mechanic took me into the pit and said that the noise was coming from the catalytic converter. To me, the noise - &lt;em&gt;insanely&lt;/em&gt; loud under the car - seemed to be coming from forward of the bell housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic noted that the oil was low (and very dark considering it had about ~1000 miles on it). There was no sign of a leak. I've also not noticed any smoke (of any color) from the exhaust at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They added some sort of additive - white bottle with an STP logo - which they thought would help the noise. I'm not a fan of snake oil &quot;solutions.&quot; I also asked how, if the noise was coming from the cat, an additive was supposed to help, but didn't get a comprehensible answer. (It didn't help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was about 1 - 1.5 weeks ago. This morning, the rattle on start was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; bad, and very noticeable when driving up to about 3k RPM. It is definitely RPM-related, not speed related.  I (unwisely) decided to drive it back to Kwik Kar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Fun Part&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine popped and vented several quarts of oil on the highway, and came to a thankfully drama-free halt. I had the car towed back to Kwik Kar (giving them a chance to look at it first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's no way an engine flush will cause an engine to blow. This seems odd to me since, if they flushed gunk out of the engine, it would wind up in the oil pan. There, the oil pump could pick it up, potentially clogging oil passages pretty much everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since I'd driven the car ~2k (total) miles since then, the flush couldn't have caused the problem. The mechanic (third one I've met) said I should have brought it back when it started making the noise. I pointed out that I &lt;strong&gt;had&lt;/strong&gt; brought it back. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic that initially worked on the car was off, and should return tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, they were not very encouraging or helpful. I have little confidence that the original mechanic is going to admit any fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would readily admit that some times things just happen on high-mileage car, but this thing has run like a top for the entire time I've owned it. It's never had an engine-related squeak or rattle. It seems highly unlikely that this would just magically happen following Kwik Kar's service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? What actions should I take at this point? A re-manufactured engine for this car is upwards of $3k, not to mention labor cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kwik Kar is denying responsibility, and wants ~$9800 to replace the engine with a used one that has over 90k miles on it, claiming a 30% labor discount. I find it odd that they would offer a labor discount if they don't believe they're at fault, but such is life. I am disinclined to let them touch anything. (Their diagnosis is a thrown rod.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;City Garage quoted $7500 for a similar high-mileage engine. (I've had cars in there before and have always had a great experience.) The labor portion is about $2k (USD). After perusing the service manual, that sounds like a good deal, but the engine price is significant. I've found remanufactured engines online for $2k-$3k, but I haven't found a shop that's willing to install a customer-provided engine. So, I can save several thousand dollars, but it looks like I'll have to do the labor myself. (I've swapped engines before, but not on anything this complicated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows of a shop in north DFW (Plano / Wylie area) that would be willing to take this on (install an engine I provide), please speak up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T01:46:56.197" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T08:09:51.033" Title="2006 Infiniti G35 - Blown engine following Kwik Kar engine flush" Tags="|engine|oil-change|service|g35|infiniti|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:00:58.963" Score="6" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to replace only the rubber part of the windscreen wipers on a 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the original wipers are always made in Belgium (those sold in Ontario and in Northern California), and back in Ontario, Canada, I recall getting them from the dealer at a cheaper price than what similar but non-compatible wipers were available for at Walmart and Canadian Tire, but I'm not so lucky in Austin, TX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.passatworld.com/forums/volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/322677-where-do-you-all-get-your-windshield-wipers-i-dont-want-pay-$60-dealership.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;passatworld.com: Where do you all get your windshield wipers?&lt;/a&gt;, one can supposedly get Bosch Icons, but there are no details as to which (plus, my own experience at a Walmart in Canada in 2008/2010 is that no wipers from there fit my Jetta, has this since changed?).  Do Bosch Icons really fit?  Are they identical in size and dimensions to OEM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also reported in the same thread that one can alternatively get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.passatworld.com/forums/vendor-marketplace/198302-bosch-aerotwin-wiper-refills-%2415-shipped-pair.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bosch Aerotwin Wiper Refills $15 Shipped a PAIR&lt;/a&gt; (now &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dubstopimports.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=wiper&amp;amp;Submit=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;18$&lt;/a&gt;), however, there are not much instructions on how good of a fit it is (I didn't try hard, but it doesn't look like the blades are easily removable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people also report that Audi dealerships sometimes have the wipers at a cheaper price -- are the wipers really the same, and how would you make sure to get compatible ones from an Audi dealer?  (The above 15$-a-pair link suggests that all VW Passat cars since mid-2002 has the same wipers, is that the case for Jetta and Audi, too?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="2760" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T15:24:28.660" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:49:21.487" Title="Can you replace only the rubber in 2008 Jetta (Mk5) wipers?" Tags="|vw|audi|windshield-wipers|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18052" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:09:38.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me as though &lt;strong&gt;they didn't put (enough) oil back in after the engine flush&lt;/strong&gt;. First of all, it didn't need an engine flush. Mobil1 and other synthetics are renowned &lt;em&gt;for not leaving deposits in the engine&lt;/em&gt;. I would bet your engine would have been sparkling clean on the inside. They sold you something you didn't need. (I'm betting something along the same lines for the power steering as well.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Secondarily, they may have never put fresh oil into your engine. They may have just left the flush in the engine without changing the oil or giving you a new filter. This, in-and-of-itself, could account for the lack of oil, the blackness of the oil when checked, and the degraded engine noise/performance you talked about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet at this point is to see what they say and what they are going to do for you. If they say it's your fault, get a lawyer. If what you are saying is exactly how it happened (and I have no reason to doubt you), there is no doubt in my mind it is their issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, this is one of the reasons I never take my car to the &lt;em&gt;Quickie&lt;/em&gt; joint to have the oil changed. The hire (for the most part) sub-par &lt;em&gt;non&lt;/em&gt;-mechanics to do the oil changes. These people, while their heart is in the right place, get minimal training (yes, even a monkey can be trained to change oil correctly), and are in a position where their only need is to pump out vehicles. They overcharge on their oil, give you crappy filters, and try to get you to buy things you don't need. If this is something you cannot do yourself (ie: you live in an apartment where you are not allowed to change your oil, etc), find a local Mom/Pop shop which can do it for you. Take them the oil/filter you want used. Hang around if possible to ensure they are using your oil/filter and that it actually gets put into/onto the engine. I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hate craptacular service and the &lt;em&gt;Quickie&lt;/em&gt; joints surely give it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T21:43:50.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T21:43:50.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18041" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:48:58.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is subjective, but I can share some of my own experience in working with Subarus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty level of working on these engines will be defined by your mechanical ability and the type of work you plan on doing. Routine maintenance is fairly easy. The engine bay is easy to get around in my opinion, but it may take some getting used to. Naturally aspirated (non-turbo) engines are generally easier to work on as there are less components at play and more space under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to maintenance, the following procedures are pretty straight forward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing oil/oil filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission fluid, rear differential fluid, power steering fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator fluid and hoses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air intake/air filter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust system replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2 sensor replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is somewhat difficult is replacing the spark plugs which plenty have complained about doing the first time. The spark plugs are located on the sides of the engine which makes them hard to get at. I managed replacing them on an 02 Impreza WRX without going underneath the car or anything crazy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also say that the support community is huge for these cars. You can most likely find anything you need in the many online forums. In North America, it is easy to find shops that are quite familiar with Subarus (sorry, I am not sure about your location). &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a great source to start for information, tutorials and faqs for any year Impreza. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T21:48:58.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18049" CreationDate="2015-06-29T22:14:47.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem with the anti-lock braking system will not have caused the issue you are describing. What you are describing can be attributed to about one of two things (or a combination of the two):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Driver inexperience in a rear-wheel drive vehicle.&lt;/strong&gt; Since the vehicle is rear-wheel drive, it will want to kick out faster than a front wheel drive vehicle will. This is made easy by the Ford V6 engine (assuming this is what you have) as they seem to be torque monsters. You just have to be careful coming out of wet corners. Don't apply as much power coming out of a wet corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poor tires.&lt;/strong&gt; - While you said there seems to be good tread on your tires, you may want to have the tread depth measured. There may be less there than what you think.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure once you get used to the vehicle, these types of situations will not recur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the brake lights on the dash, you'll need to get them read to know what's going on. The brake light (red one) may be because the float in the reservoir is stuck in the down position. Giving the reservoir a couple of light taps with a screwdriver handle (I mean light ... don't go wailing on the thing) can sometimes free this up. If that doesn't solve the issue, check to ensure none of the brake lights are out. And I mean &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the brake lights. If you have a single one out, even though several others are lit in the same space, it can cause your dash light to turn on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those pan out, you'll need to take your Explorer to a shop and have the codes read. Then you can take it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T22:14:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T22:44:42.533" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you know gasoline expands and contracts volumetrically with the temperature.  The state &quot;seals&quot; of approval only account by testing the volume at the time (and temperature) that they do this.  You get a more dense mix of molecules (higher concentrations per volume unit) at colder temperatures than you do at warmer temperatures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if you get more bang for you buck if you are always filling up earlier in the day instead of when it is warmer?  If so, anybody know by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are the electronics in the car adjusting the mixture for the denser mix of gas at lower temperatures -vs- higher temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7742" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:14:11.483" Title="Gasoline and Temperature" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18063" CreationDate="2015-06-29T22:47:09.973" Score="3" ViewCount="3277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at adding a paint protection film (aka clear bra) and come to realize the areas that requires coverage may depend from car to car (e.g.: Mazda CX-5 vs. Tesla). Different aerodynamics, shape, height, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the course of normal on paved road driving, which areas of the car are most susceptible to get rock chips that would damage the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer will drive the minimum coverage needed with a Paint Protection Film (PPF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other forums the top picks in order are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full front bumper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hood (partial or full?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front fenders (partial or full?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headlights (although not paint...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wing mirrors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;A&quot; pillars / front of roof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Area in front of rear wheel well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is also where to put money where it matters most? There are reports where stone chips goes above the partial hood cover. What about the fenders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:22:32.890" Title="Which areas of a car is most susceptible to rock chips?" Tags="|mazda|headlight|paint|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:12:53.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are engine head bolts and need to be torqued precisely, in order to last their useful life. Since they are located in an awkward location and have to be assembled in a factory, I suppose they are using double-hex heads to allow for greater torque, despite the complexity of having different tooling. Otherwise they would use simple outer hex bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such bolts should not be &lt;a href=&quot;http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reused after removal as they stretch out a bit when properly torqued&lt;/a&gt;. If you reuse the bolts, they may fail sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T23:12:53.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17654" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:32:09.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've thought about this a bit and don't see how lugging a motor could blow a head gasket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see, however, how lugging can do damage to other areas of an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, lugging a motor does not give it good volumetric efficiency due to the low RPM's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at this way.  An intake track at high RPM's creates an effect where the mass of the air flowing at a high rate 'overfills' the cylinder with an air fuel charge.  The velocity of the airflow compresses the charge a bit and give the cylinder greater volumetric efficiency where you are stuffing more volume (at the current barometric pressure) into the cylinder than if it was just opened up to the atmosphere in non-running state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This higher volumetric efficiency would create a larger explosion of air fuel with more force to potentially damage the head gasket.  Not that it would necessarily, this is just in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with less than desirable air fuel charge during lugging I am unable to see how it could, specifically, head gasket damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T23:32:09.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17521" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:54:27.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the '05 version of your truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my old list out of a notebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All synchro rings.  2nd, 3rd and 5th are multi piece.  1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th are coil springs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roller bearings (Input shaft and Main Shaft, Counter Shaft)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front and rear seals&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pocket Bearing &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ALL Gaskets&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shift fork inserts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I&quot;m sure you were hoping for something more comprehensive but this is all I really have for you.  Good luck. It's a fun job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T23:54:27.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18057" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:14:11.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the &quot;earth mean temperature&quot; will differ from  one location to another the individual readings are quite stable year round. Gasoline storage tanks are typically underground. The soil acts as insulation or a buffer to temperature swings. What this means is that if the pumps were calibrated on an sunny summer day at 85 degrees the fuel temperature would be very close the ground temperature at 15 feet below grade. On a cool fall day say 40 degrees the fuel temperature will still be close to ground temperature. Modern engine control systems adjust the fuel mixture to maintain optimal fuel/air ratios in real time, meaning as the engine is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:14:11.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18058" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:22:32.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking at the car (and I think you have most of it already covered in your question): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The leading edges are the most susceptible ... this would include any part of the front fascia &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The A-pillar and maybe the leading edge of the roof &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any part of the side which when looking at it, dips in, then comes back out ... the part which comes back out is going to take more hits &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rocker panels (below and between the tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fender just behind the tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirrors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front edge of the door and  leading edge just beyond the doors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I would worry too much about the headlights. Most modern headlights are made out of Lexan, which is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; stout stuff. They will take a lot of abuse before they will chip or break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are more places where you could place the stuff. It is nearly invisible, so I would have no fear with throwing it on there. I also don't think I'd worry about covering only the leading edges and not the full part (like the hood or fenders). The reason I say this is, due to its near invisibility, you have to be &lt;em&gt;right on top of the film&lt;/em&gt; in order to see it. Stand back 5 feet and it all but disappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing of note is, the people who do the installation can tell you where it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; needs to go. If you do it yourself, more power to you. I'm sure you can get some precut pieces which will cover the main areas of the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:22:32.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:27:02.753" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2001 toyota corolla driver side window goes up half way then pushes outward and binds up then stops. What is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11072" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:34:17.843" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:35:48.367" Title="2001 toyota corolla electric window goes up half way then pushes outward and stops" Tags="|toyota|corolla|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18064" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:35:48.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the regulator is worn out and will need to be replaced. I wouldn't try to force it up, or you could shatter the glass. The slides for the glass could also be at fault. Some windows incorporate both the slides and the regulator together ... some do not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:35:48.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18048" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:43:46.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things involved in installing an aftermarket stereo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where to Begin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stereo is stock (more accurately if it hasn't been replaced with an aftermarket one), then you will need a dash kit if you want to make it easier and cleaner for yourself. A dash kit is what you would install after removing the stock stereo. It will come with a wiring harness that you would hook up to the existing wires and a bracket that would fit right in the space of your old stereo. Now you can easily install any standard aftermarket stereo in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are on the right track for removal. You can refer to your vehicle's manual for this or find a good tutorial online. You usually don't need any special tools for removing the stereo and dash plates, but a dash/trim removal kit could come in handy. These tools are usually plastic and come in different shapes and sizes. You could also try using flat head screwdriver, just be careful to prevent scratching your dash or other components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing will be a breeze with the dash kit. As long as you have the wiring harness hooked up correctly, all you will have to do is plug the wiring harness into the new deck and slide it in. Follow the instructions that should come with your dash kit. Most manufacturers will match the colours up with your vehicles stock wiring to minimize error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car does have a factory amp, you will need a deck that comes with pre-amp outputs. Most after market stereos will have these. A good deck will come with multiple outputs for connecting multiple amps (i.e., front, rear and sub). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be easy to tell if you have a factory amp upon removal of the stock stereo. If you notice any RCA cables kicking around there, you must have a factory amp. These RCA cables would connect to the respectable outputs on the deck. You would also need to make sure that the signal wire for the amp connects to the signal wire on your deck. This wire is typically labelled as &quot;remote&quot; (on the wiring diagram) and it is the wire that tells your amp to turn on when the deck is powered up. Again, the dash kit should contain all the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always useful to have a wiring diagram or specification. Refer to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modifiedlife.com/1992-ford-explorer-car-audio-wiring-diagram/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for the wiring spec for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T03:13:37.607" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T03:13:37.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17517" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:05:39.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the part number for your carb.  This is for an OEM Yamaha carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3HN-14101-00-00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSosa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T01:05:39.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18074" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:51:31.803" Score="5" ViewCount="6897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: 2003 Opel Agila 1.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to retrofit Air Conditioning to my car, as I'm planning to travel to a hot place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apart from charging and discharging the system, which I would obviously do at a garage, as everyone knows that AC gas ravages the environment, how long would the job take? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could I do most of it at home? (with a socket set, screwdrivers, a Jack and a hammer)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I had a donor car. with AC, how difficult would this be? (including removing all the AC parts off the old car)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What parts would I need to remove from the donor?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't have a donor car, how expensive would it be?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As this is just a &quot;dumb&quot; AC system with no climate control, just red for hot and blue for cold, is the electrical work for the AC complicated?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T06:29:07.033" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T06:29:07.033" Title="Is it difficult to retrofit Air Conditioning?" Tags="|ac|opel|agila|retrofit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T03:00:21.833" Score="3" ViewCount="10110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 honda accord v6 lx with about 190K miles on it. I was told recently by a mechanic that I need to get the oil pan replaced and it was going to cost $400-$500 dollars. I did some research and it appears moderately easy with the right tools I'm sure to replace it myself but how can I verify if in fact, the oil pan needs to be replaced. Thank you for any insight on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T07:21:57.560" Title="How to verify if a oil pan needs to be replaced" Tags="|honda|accord|replace|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18069" CreationDate="2015-06-30T04:47:42.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scratches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any deformation especially on the gasket level &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11073" LastEditorUserId="11073" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T10:46:04.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T10:46:04.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18048" CreationDate="2015-06-30T08:51:07.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Tariq's answer - make sure you get the correct wiring adaptor/harness for your vehicle - that way, it's just a case of plugging things in, without having to cut any wires, or worry about colours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T08:51:07.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18068" CreationDate="2015-06-30T09:58:42.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is an Agila model with aircon, chances are most of the fittings are in place already (it's cheaper to have one common platform). It's quite a job actually though. Plus you'll need to install a new pulley belt. It's not impossible, but if you have the money and don't care about the learning experience, have someone else do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T09:58:42.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18069" CreationDate="2015-06-30T10:03:19.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be &lt;strong&gt;visible to photograph without tools or disassembly&lt;/strong&gt;, either as physical damage or oil leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you the damage or leak. If necessary, photograph it using a digital camera with a &quot;macro&quot; setting from 30-50 cm distance with flash, and post the photo here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18070/922&quot;&gt;as Capsule mentioned&lt;/a&gt; that some oil pans have striations, casting marks, or even air-cooling fins and these should not be confused with damage. Light scratching and denting on the underside is common and acceptable, but deep scratches, tears, or cracks are signs that the pan should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T10:03:19.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18068" CreationDate="2015-06-30T11:11:10.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; donor car, it is by far easier to swap it out than to retrofit. If the donor car doesn't have an engine in it, level of difficulty goes up exponentially. This is due to not knowing where everything is/was/should be. Also, you'll be on an expedition in parts finding. You'd need to &lt;em&gt;find the right&lt;/em&gt; AC compressor, lines, &amp;amp; pulleys which probably wouldn't be there without and engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you'll need to pull out of a donor car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compressor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refrigerant lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drier/filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condenser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evaporator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evaporator housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater core (possibly if different than original)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan resistor pack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring (could possibly be there if manufacturer has single wiring harness for vehicle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All associated nuts/bolts/screws/brackets/etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is not exhaustive. You will probably find that there are little things which I've not mentioned you'll need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect your vehicle to be down for a couple of days while retrofitting. To do this, I'd bet &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; pulled out of the donor car first. &lt;em&gt;Anything&lt;/em&gt; which touches the bits/pieces you are pulling off needs to be suspect and prepared for movement to receiver car (within reason ... you won't need to introduce the body over, lol!). Do not get rid of donor car until you have the job done. That way if you find you need something you haven't planned for, it will be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:11:10.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19116" CreationDate="2015-06-30T11:52:54.177" Score="7" ViewCount="19410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some help figuring out what's wrong with my 2007 Forester XT Manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The headgasket popped in November of last year. I had it fixed by an RMI certified workshop. They skimmed the head, installed a new HG, timing belt, etc. I don't think they did the waterpump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before that, the guy I bought it from had the downpipe decatted and the thermostat replaced (he even gave me the old one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on Sunday we were driving around looking for houses on show and suddenly I notice the temp gauge going up to 3/4. I turn on Torque and it shows the temp is at 112 Centigrade (about 12% above boiling point of water, whatever that is in Fahrenheit). I checked the coolant level and while it wasn't full-full, it was enough to keep the car cool (I know because when the HG went, it only overheated when the coolant was almost completely empty). In an attempt to protect the engine, I turned on the heat on full but only cold air came out. I haven't checked for collapsed pipes. I also don't know the state of the heater core. All I can say is that it was working pretty well up until thursday or friday when I last had the heat on. I wasn't driving fast, I was cruising around looking for a house to buy. I didn't notice any bubbles in the coolant like last time, so I don't THINK the HG is leaking into the waterjacket again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a bad thermostat or a blockage of some sort, but I have no solid proof yet. Anyone else have something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T10:52:33.480" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T21:19:23.640" Title="Infamous WRX/XT overheating problem" Tags="|engine|subaru|radiator|overheating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T12:17:36.213" Score="7" ViewCount="8065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that when a turbocharger is being used it will cause the fuel economy  of your car to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without thinking about techniques to improve fuel economy in general, how does a driver attempt to prevent their turbocharger from spooling up too much? From my limited observation it seems that if I accelerate slowly, even after reaching a high RPM the turbo will not produce a lot of boost (based on the sound and feel) but I could be wrong about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11005" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T00:43:57.580" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T17:55:24.903" Title="Does limiting the use of a vehicle's turbocharger improve fuel economy?" Tags="|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18075" CreationDate="2015-06-30T12:46:51.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing specifics about the WRX engine, it sounds like you have a decent plan of attack. Here are some general guidelines for how to test for possible culprits in a sudden overheating situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cooling fan not running&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to check fuses, relays, continuity, and apply 12V to make sure that the fan hasn't mechanically seized.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Restricted coolant flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visually inspect for collapsed pipes as you have already mentioned. I'm reluctant to say that a bad water pump would cause this since you mention the failure seems to be sudden and not gradual. Same comment applies to deposit build-up in the plumbing - possible but not probable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stuck-closed thermostat&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be easy to test. Remove the thermostat and immerse it in boiling water. The set-point temperature is usually stamped on the thermostat itself, so you want to see if the pintle &quot;opens&quot; when the temperature has reached.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad radiator cap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap is responsible for regulating system pressure. A bad cap may explain loss of coolant from the overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T13:40:00.097" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T13:40:00.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18075" CreationDate="2015-06-30T15:07:41.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this points at the thermostat being bad. The reason I go in this direction is due to there being &lt;em&gt;no heat coming from the heater vents&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not sure if Subaru has it this way, but many heating systems in cars only divert coolant from exterior of the motor to the heater core. If the thermostat is not allowing (much or) any coolant through, you'll only get cool coolant through the core and no heat transference. It also means you don't have any real cooling going on with your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:07:41.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T15:32:04.367" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;'04 Cavalier, 115K.  Tires are decent, and don't seem to be wearing unevenly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low-pitch droning noise at highway speed.  Originally, this was only when steering left; but now, also when going straight.  The noise goes away when steering right.  (&quot;steering&quot; as in a lane change or road curve.)  No vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car had a similar problem 5 years ago.  That cleared after replacing the right front hub assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting 2 years ago, the noise returned.  It's probably getting gradually worse - at least, I'm more conscious of it.  I replaced the RF hub again, but this didn't help.  Also (for other reasons) I replaced the right front strut and both control arms.  The stabilizer links look OK, AFAICT.  I don't feel any play in the bearing when I rock the wheel top-to-bottom.  There is a little play front-to-back, which I think is lash in the steering, and I think has been there all along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T15:37:48.927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:36:42.737" Title="turn-sensitive road noise" Tags="|chevrolet|noise|suspension|steering|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:26:55.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the ignition or starter switch is the problem. The switch should be leaving some circuits hot in the crank position. It's also possible that the starter is pulling the circuit voltage low enough that it's not sufficient enough to fire the plugs. Check you battery, and connections as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:26:55.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18079" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:36:42.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion was going to be the wheel bearing. It still might be one of the rear bearings. I had this problem with my '06 Pontiac and the wheel hub (including bearing) was surprisingly cheap and easy to replace. You should be able to inspect the rear bearings much the same way as the front bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second suggestion would be the CV joints. The boot might have a small enough crack that no particulate has infiltrated, but it might have gotten wet and lost some grease, leading to noise especially when turning. You should be able to see cracks or tears in one of the CV boots, if this is the case. You may even be able to get more life out of it by adding some grease (if they've got zerk fittings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:36:42.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:11:10.827" Score="2" ViewCount="2892" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djB7o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I have a 1988 yamaha route 66....I put some oil in, it has a slow leak by kickstand...I took it for a 5 mile ride last night. Afterwards I found it  sitting in oil, and the outter engine /side was covered in oil on the side opposite kickstand- so not from the old leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Did I blow the engine ?  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, here is the edited version:  the oil runs out quickly from it seems- the air filter -when running (the silver roundish part directly below and left of the words &quot;route 66&quot;)  the bottom of the air filter case was covered and dripping oil &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11075" LastEditorUserId="11075" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T19:28:23.413" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T16:50:00.123" Title="Oil all over outside of engine" Tags="|motorcycle|oil-leak|yamaha|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:19:12.473" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 CRV the rotor will not come off.  I have tried almost everything. I say almost as there must be something else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have beaten the rotor like it stole my rent money.  I have tried using two bolts, four nuts and two washers.  I have tried using an extractor to remove it.  The rotor is covered in WD-40 and PB blaster; it's literally dripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what else to do. I have tried everything but heat, and I don't want to risk burning anything important. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11076" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T18:44:30.380" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:44:30.380" Title="Rotor removal help" Tags="|honda|brake-rotor|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18083" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:23:32.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exactly what @Movemorecommentslinktotop said in his comment ... if the rear rotors, there is a second braking surface inside the rotor &quot;hat&quot; which is for the e-brakes. If you haven't backed these shoes off or if you have the e-brake on, you'll never get these off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front brakes may be rusted around the hub and are not releasing. They can become &quot;space welded&quot; or rust bonded to this &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tight area. Make sure you hit this with WD-40 as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are hitting the rotor, hit it from side to side (one side then the other). Hitting it on one edge will allow it to become &lt;em&gt;wedged&lt;/em&gt; and will not move after it. By hitting it from side to side, you are moving it a little bit at a time, but as soon as the center loosens up, it will come off easily. I've also found that beating it &lt;em&gt;back onto&lt;/em&gt; the hub can sometimes make a difference, in that it loosens things up and allows the rust to release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:23:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18082" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:43:25.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine will run, I doubt you've &quot;blown the engine&quot;. Usually a blown engine indicates that it's dead. Caputski. Bon Voyage. Sailed for greener pastures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I would bet one of the gaskets has let go of the goods. It appears that the side case of your engine has three parts to it. I think there are some easy things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MWB5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to ensure the oil fill is securely fastened (red arrow). May just be that simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the three gaskets may be bad (green arcs - follow the seams all the way around the cover, not just where the arcs are at). You may be able to alleviate any leaks in these areas by simply tightening the fasteners. If not, you'd need to get new gaskets to seal this back up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any of the fasteners in the covers may be loose, causing oil to leak past it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing you need to do is to figure out where the oil is actually coming from. Until you do that, it's all a crap shoot. Clean the engine up and then check it for leaks. If you have fresh oil in it, this may be a little difficult, but not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:43:25.283" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18090" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:14:54.400" Score="6" ViewCount="24398" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I compression test my engine and the results are fine, could there ever be any need to leak-down test it as well?  IOW, can a leak down test ever fail if the compression test is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RELATED:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17768/cylinder-leak-down-vs-compression-test&quot;&gt;Cylinder Leak-down vs Compression Test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T04:52:26.107" Title="Is cylinder leak down test needed if compression test results are fine?" Tags="|engine|compression|testing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18089" CreationDate="2015-06-30T23:05:01.137" Score="9" ViewCount="115625" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I press the power tailgate button to open the tailgate, it beeps 3 times quickly (and does not open).  Same behavior when trying to close the gate using the button on the bottom (3 beeps, doesn't close)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Workaround is to press the release for a few seconds triggering the manual opening of the gate, or just to close it myself.  Kind of frustrating however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11078" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T20:12:11.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T15:02:28.310" Title="Subaru Forester Power Tailgate won't open" Tags="|subaru|body|forester|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2015-06-30T23:12:50.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/attachments/f88/116569d1388373095-2014-forester-trunk-hatch-randomly-stops-working-powergatetsb.pdf&quot;&gt;technical service bulletin&lt;/a&gt; regarding the 2014 Subaru's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you receive a customer concern of a “beep- beep-beep” sound when&#xA;  trying to operate the PRG, a likely cause is an incomplete&#xA;  initialization procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair Procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;With the ignition “OFF”, open the PRG manually using a fluid motion (no light flash or beep should occur).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Carefully (slowly) close the rear gate until the first audible “click” of the rear gate latch mechanism is heard then immediately let&#xA;  go of the rear gate. The auto closer function will then operate to&#xA;  complete the rear gate closing / latching function. This will also&#xA;  complete the initialization process. If the auto closer function is&#xA;  inoperative, diagnose per the applicable Service Manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;After the PRG is fully closed, operate either the Gate Opener switch, the Gate Inner (close) switch, remote keyless access switch or&#xA;  the Interior PRG Open/Close switch to verify the automatic opening and&#xA;  closing operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the PRG inoperative condition persists, record the radio station presets (and navigation system favorites, if applicable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;IMPORTANT: Record any codes currently in PRG memory as the next step will clear them. 6. Disconnect the positive and negative cables&#xA;  from the vehicle’s battery, touch the 2 cable ends together creating a&#xA;  capacitive discharge which will clear the memory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reconnect the cables to the battery, reset all radio presets (and navigation favorites, if applicable) then confirm normal PRG&#xA;  operation. • If the customer’s PRG usage pattern precludes the ability&#xA;  of the system to initialize upon closing, and control unit replacement&#xA;  is determined to be necessary to assure customer satisfaction, order&#xA;  and replace the PRG control unit following the service procedure&#xA;  outlined in the applicable Service Manual. • If the PRG still does not&#xA;  operate properly, utilize any codes pulled from the system and follow&#xA;  the rest of the diagnostic procedures beginning on page PRG(diag)-2 of&#xA;  the 2014 Forester Service Manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11078" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:12:50.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18087" CreationDate="2015-07-01T00:42:05.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can. The reason is, these are two different tests, done differently, reading different things. To understand this, you need to understand how the tool works for each test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the compression test, the test apparatus captures and holds the compression as it builds through several, but counted revolutions of the crankshaft. You will get so much pressure built up on the first revolution, but this will not be the complete pressure. You need to turn the engine over for four or more compression cycles on that cylinder in order to get your reading. &lt;strong&gt;It is important you run the compression stroke the same amount of revolutions for each cylinder to get an accurate reading between cylinders.&lt;/strong&gt; There are two main purposes of the compression test: 1) to get a final compression pressure reading; 2) to see the variance between the cylinders after all cylinders are tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the leak down test, a separate air source is used. You put the apparatus into the spark plug hole, ensure the piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke (to ensure all valves are closed), then apply the air to cylinder. You then take the reading and see what your leak down % is. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofSiTGeLXvc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a good video of the procedure&lt;/a&gt;) Again, you are looking for overall leakage as well as the difference between cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major difference here is, even if you have a cylinder which has a leaking valve, it will still continue to build pressure. The pressure may be less than it should be using a compression tester, but you'll still build pressure because the gauge itself will capture the pressure as it builds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T00:42:05.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T03:06:50.707" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Ford Escape 3.0 XLT, 87,000 miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just started getting hot here so I've started using the AC, and consequently noticed the steering gets creaky like a rusty door.  Off and on though, comes and goes.  Sometimes barely noticeable other times quite loud, but steering always works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I noticed the correlation with AC on I've suffered many sweaty drives, and cannot reproduce it with AC off.  Also it drips quite a bit out of the front right quadrant of the engine bay, 99% it's water and had suspected condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I crazy to suspect correlation helps causation?  Or perhaps a serpentine belt/power steering pump issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11079" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T10:53:17.220" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:08:12.140" Title="2002 Ford Escape creaky steering (correlates to AC)?" Tags="|ford|ac|power-steering|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18076" CreationDate="2015-07-01T03:25:45.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the use of a turbocharger decrease fuel economy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my application, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;. But only because the turbo boost is so damn addicting! I find that my foot gets heavier than normal in order to achieve maximum boost in each gear. Common sense tells us that &lt;strong&gt;more acceleration = more fuel consumption&lt;/strong&gt;. This answer provides more detail on the above subject: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5590/does-accelerating-faster-worsen-fuel-efficiency/5606#5606&quot;&gt;Does accelerating faster worsen fuel efficiency?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is; &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;. Your fuel consumption will vary according to the size of the turbo, size of the engine, level of acceleration, aerodynamic drag, and the list goes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without getting too detailed about the inner workings of a turbo, it's basic function is to provide &lt;strong&gt;on-demand&lt;/strong&gt; power to the engine by forcing more air (and thus, more fuel) into the combustion chamber. The key here is on-demand; instead of providing constant consumption of fuel like naturally aspirated engines, turbos can actually be seen as a fuel saving tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I limit the use of the turbocharger as to improve fuel economy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every turbo has a &lt;strong&gt;boost threshold&lt;/strong&gt;, which is the the period at which the turbo starts producing usable boost. This usable boost is affected by the rate of flow of the exhaust gases, which is what is needed for the turbo to spool up. This limits the turbo boost at a particular rpm, which is referred to as &lt;strong&gt;boost threshold rpm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you are correct in thinking that &lt;strong&gt;less acceleration = less boost&lt;/strong&gt; produced by the turbo. The turbo isn't receiving enough exhaust gas (created by acceleration) to create usable boost. Once you discover what your boost threshold is (which is based on your vehicle and other factors listed above), you can then determine the optimal rpm's to shift at in order to stay below the boost threshold rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T06:52:01.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18076" CreationDate="2015-07-01T08:56:20.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. If you floor the car, the air/fuel ratio is dropped from 14.7:1 to 13:1 or even as low as 10:1 depending on the make and model and the boost level. the lower the ratio, the more fuel is wasted in an attempt to keep temperatures under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't floor the car (sending the car into Wide Open Throttle / Open Loop mode), being &quot;on boost&quot; won't negatively effect fuel consumption. On the contrary, because a turbo forces air into your engine, it actually artificially increases the volumetric efficiency of the engine, making for a more optimal, complete combustion stroke. Which is why a 200HP turbo car uses less fuel than a 200HP non-turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T08:56:20.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18076" CreationDate="2015-07-01T09:33:54.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot limit the usage of the turbo , it will be very difficult to notice at what time you need to shift in order to not have the turbo spool up which is a distraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is something called a waste gate in most turbocharged engines(that is why I asked what car you use in the comment) If your turbo has a waste gate you can mechanically let it be open all the time, this will prevent the turbo from creating any boost at all, it will be like you are not have a turbo on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you feel you need the boost you can revert the waste gate settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T09:33:54.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18091" CreationDate="2015-07-01T11:00:18.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm understanding the question correctly, I don't think you have any major problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC is going to drip water which has condensed on the evaporator core during use. This is completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can only cause this to happen with the AC on, I'd suggest you have one or two issues. This is directly related to the serpentine belt. Either the belt is worn out (very hard to tell without a gauge on serpentine belts), the tensioner pulley is not doing it's job, or both. As the belt becomes more worn out, it will tend to slip more and cause accessories to start making noises when used. When you have the AC on and use the power steering as well, this puts it over the top and it starts making noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by changing out the serpentine belt. More than likely this will solve the issue. Next would be the tensioner pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I don't think anything major is going on. Just typical maintenance items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T11:00:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pickup truck produced by Chevrolet (General Motors) for the 2001 through 2013 model years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This truck was equipped with four doors, a tonneau cover, and a short bed. The rear window was capable of retracting into the panel below it. Then with the rear seat moved out of the way, the panel could be lowered down which would allow for an 8' bed to utilize in hauling cargo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truck was produced for two generations based on the Chevrolet Silverado chassis. GMT800 (2001-2006) and GMT900 (2007-2013). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" Score="0" Body="Chevrolet (GM) produced 4-door pickup truck." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T12:45:26.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18102" CreationDate="2015-07-01T14:37:49.390" Score="4" ViewCount="3664" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic recently replaced the alternator on my 2007 Toyota Camry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When he returned the car to me he said that my motor mounts need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I notice a vibration at idle. I am not a mechanic but I am sure that vibration was not noticeable before. Did they fail in one day, or am I thinking negatively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11085" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T20:09:26.253" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T23:21:32.447" Title="Engine Mounts issue can be caused by replacing Alternator?" Tags="|alternator|camry|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18052" CreationDate="2015-07-01T14:55:20.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone else reading this, an &quot;engine flush&quot; can be done by draining the old oil, filling up with new oil, going for a quick 100 mile drive, then draining and refilling again. It's not quite as thorough as a chemical flush, but it doesn't destroy the motor either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:55:20.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2015-07-01T15:01:53.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design of your car, the engine mounts may have been removed during the alternator removal and replacement so any damage may now show up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if the alternator previously wasn't working and is now drawing on the vehicles RPM to charge the batter, the idle may have dropped (which could account for the vibration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vibration only occours at idle, it may be that the idle speed needs adjustment.  However, if the vibration happens across the rev range or is particularly bad (often accompanied by an audible &quot;clunk&quot;) when pulling away or coming to a stop, it may be that you have a bad engine mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T15:01:53.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:03:50.997" Score="5" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the more common reasons of overheating is a stuck thermostat.  One of the most common reasons for blown head gaskets is overheating.  One of the most expensive vehicle repair procedures is head gasket replacement.  Most thermostats, on the other hand, cost around $20 and the replacement is well within the DIY domain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't there a sensor on the thermostat to detect opening and closing and notify the ECU, which, in the absence of an expected pattern in thermostat activity logs, relative to other related factors, would raise a red flag in the form of an engine code to alert the driver to stop driving until the thermostat is fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imaging something like that should be relatively easy to record and preventively alert the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T16:57:58.203" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:28:10.183" Title="Why don't thermostats have a sensor?" Tags="|sensor|electronic-control-module|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:39:57.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people cover their broken headlight with tape, and it makes me cringe. The tape can melt and end up being useless after just a few hours. It's best to go to a car repair shop to get it fixed, or in your situation, wait for the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11090" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T17:06:08.790" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T17:06:08.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18103" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:53:34.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might seem easy to integrate a sensor that detects the opening/closing of &#xA;a mechanical thermostat's pintle (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_variable_differential_transformer&quot;&gt;LVDT&lt;/a&gt;, for example) but here are some challenges which would need to be addressed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cost vs Benefit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a &quot;smart&quot; thermostat really worth the extra hassle and money when its dumb counterpart has the following to offer? :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's already cost-effective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it isn't usually failure-prone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can tell if it fails &lt;em&gt;stuck-closed&lt;/em&gt; because coolant temperature will climb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you don't worry too much if it fails &lt;em&gt;stuck-open&lt;/em&gt; as there isn't any serious risk of short-term, catastrophic engine damage (engine runs cooler than it should, HC emissions will worsen, maybe clogged secondary air tracts and cats in case of serious neglect over a sustained period)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Operational challenges&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the thermostat is deployed in a relatively hot and wet environment, which isn't really ideal for electrical systems due to material and hazard-related challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be difficult to justify the introduction of an early-warning sensor at the expense of reliability and part longevity given the application's criticality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;KISS principle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond serving as a diagnostic aide, I cannot think of any additional benefit that modern-day engine management could reap from knowing the thermostat pintle's position. One could correlate it to coolant flow rate but we don't really care about that&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;; its temperature is sufficient and we already have a sensor present for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this and the thermostat's reliability, design engineers would be more than happy to delegate the responsibility of coolant temp regulation to a mechanical system and take its operation for granted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://papers.sae.org/2003-01-0272/&quot;&gt;some people do&lt;/a&gt;, but this is more of a nice-to-have than something mission-critical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T08:28:10.183" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:28:10.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2015-07-01T17:04:06.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem was probably there before and you are just noticing it. Lots of times, the problems we experience with vehicles happens over time. Motor mounts are one such thing. They do not wear out overnight or just &lt;em&gt;give up the ghost&lt;/em&gt; all of a sudden (in the vast majority of the cases). Most of the time, as these things wear out, we don't notice it happening. Then, when something major happens (in your case the alternator), we suddenly become hyper sensitive to how the vehicle is running or how it feels to us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, you'll need more than likely need to get your motor mount(s) replaced as the mechanic suggested (if you didn't have it done already). Motor mounts will continue to wear and if not replaced, will cause more wear to the good motor mounts due to them having to pick up the bad one's slack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T17:04:06.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T17:17:47.057" Score="2" ViewCount="2259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 Accord and part of the windshield frame (or maybe it's called &quot;rubber trim&quot;) along the passenger side has come loose, as seen in this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8n1C7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the dealer, and they said they don't fix windshield frames.  They said I would need to take it to a windshield shop and have the entire windshield replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way for me to get the frame to stay in place without needing to replace the entire windshield?  Preferably something that won't cause a problem in case I ever do decide to replace the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" OwnerDisplayName="pacoverflow" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T19:58:44.410" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:58:44.410" Title="How can I keep the windshield frame in place?" Tags="|honda|accord|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18107" CreationDate="2015-07-01T18:17:53.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As seen in the following diagram, your windshield lateral trim is basically a long deflector that is held in place by several clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Djg1X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Accord 1997 windshield trim. Image credit: hondapartsnow.com (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1997-honda-accord-4dr_lx_abs-ka-4at/front-windshield.html)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image source: Hondapartsnow, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1997-honda-accord-4dr_lx_abs-ka-4at/front-windshield.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1997-honda-accord-4dr_lx_abs-ka-4at/front-windshield.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assembly #7 serves to deflect airflow, and probably can simply be taken off. Your car will just make more wind noise. I would take it off, specifically so that parts do not come off at speed (and perhaps distract other users and cause an accident).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, part 5 in the diagram looks to be the rubber bit that actually holds the glass in place, providing a seal to avoid water coming in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by @Paulster2, a windshield repair shop (or repair person) will probably be well able either to replace this trim, or take it off and confirm it is not really necessary. This is obviously easier to diagnose with the vehicle in front of you, than over the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:17:53.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17412" CreationDate="2015-07-01T18:51:59.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amelio: You can try changing the ignition coil and the spark plugs. I had a similar issue a few days ago, and we found out that the ignition coil had one bad terminal, and the spark plug located in that terminal, was a little wet... Give it a try! I'm a Ford Mustang 2004 v6 3.8L owner from El Salvador..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11092" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:51:59.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2015-07-01T20:30:27.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While both &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18106/85&quot;&gt;Paulster2's&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18102/85&quot;&gt;Steve Matthews's&lt;/a&gt; have good answers, there is another thing to consider. The 3.5 V-6 equipped Camrys that year (not sure about the 4 cly) have what Toyota calls Active Control Engine Mounts. They use vacuum and electricity to control the mounts. Also on the 3.5 engine it's quite an extensive repair to get to the alternator off, and if during the repair a vacuum line or electrical connector was knocked off or not reconnected it might cause you symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying for sure it's the technicians fault it's just worth finding out. As Paulster2 said it may have been there but now you are paying more attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T20:30:27.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18103" CreationDate="2015-07-01T20:51:02.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per your question the issue is about overheating. For that we already have a coolant temperature sensor, which can alert the driver when there is over heating. For your kind information there are electrically controlled thermostats in some modern engines of Mercedes and maybe in some others too!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T20:51:02.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:31:08.813" Score="2" ViewCount="2564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to have the rear spoiler (above the rear hatch back window) replaced.&#xA;Apparently two of the three tabs are broken.  The dealer wants $$$ to do this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can a handy person remove and replace that unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11094" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:51:26.250" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T22:51:44.433" Title="Can a &quot;handy&quot; person remove and replace the rear spoiler on a 2004 Toyota 4runner" Tags="|toyota|body-work|4runner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18115" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:45:26.553" Score="3" ViewCount="2784" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee (2WD) &amp;lt;-- :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue&lt;/strong&gt;: Makes a sort of 'grinding' sound when it's running. It appears to be RPM dependent, and seems to be the worst at low RPMs (idling is the worst). The noise is a sort of grating/grinding. It sounds a little &quot;echoey&quot;, so to speak, like something rattling against a hollow chamber. When I start the car or shut it off it is the loudest and scariest sounding, then it dies down a bit. Noise comes from under the car (maybe toward the back? It's hard to tell really over the engine noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ideas&lt;/strong&gt;: As far as I've researched so far, my best bet is a loose heat shield on the catalytic converter. (I suppose this would explain the rpm dependency if it only makes noise at certain engine vibration frequencies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone confirm this, or offer another explanation? It seems to have worsened as of late. The noise just appeared one day when I started it, although I suppose it's possible it was going on earlier just not loud enough to be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11095" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T03:35:25.140" Title="Grating Sound coming from beneath Jeep" Tags="|noise|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18114" CreationDate="2015-07-02T01:18:17.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably right, but it could also come from the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of any of the exhaust components. A failed catalytic converter can be VERY noisy. Once I had a failing front-muffler/resonator too and it was producing a rattling sound at low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would also explain the echoey sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to determine that is to hit every single exhaust component with your fist or a rubber hammer and listen for any rattling sound, but since it's RPM dependent, you might not hear anything by doing this with the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to car stands or a lift, lift the car, ask somebody to accelerate a bit and inspect the exhaust while the engine is running and you can actually reproduce the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful you don't touch the exhaust with your bare hands as it can get very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: if you've never changed your catalytic converter in almost 20 years, there's a good chance it's cooked and hitting it will immediately reproduce the sound as metal chunks would be completely loose inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11073" LastEditorUserId="11073" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T03:35:25.140" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T03:35:25.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17412" CreationDate="2015-07-02T03:23:53.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plug an ODB2 reader and check for any fault codes. Might be related to the coils/plugs like Joel said, could also be a fuel trim issue caused by bad O2 sensors. An ODB2 reader would let you check all of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could just be the idle valve on the Throttle body. Do you still have the stock TB? Would be worth a try to swap them. If not, make sure it's clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T03:23:53.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T04:54:33.363" Score="5" ViewCount="3683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado. &#xA;When I go to put gas in my truck it stops after like 3 dollars worth of fuel. Since I know it's not full, I click it again and gas shoots back out at me.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What do you guys think my problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11097" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T12:17:12.653" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T14:44:25.733" Title="Can't get gas in my truck" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|fuel-tank|silverado|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18128" CreationDate="2015-07-02T08:22:37.100" Score="5" ViewCount="45176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this happen on a couple of different engines so far (BMW S62, Mitsubishi 4G63) but am not sure about how commonplace it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an engine isn't used for an extended period of time, the subsequent startup results in a tapping sound that changes frequency with engine RPM. This sound then goes away after the engine is run for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People usually associate this tapping sound with stuck valve lifters. I would like to better understand what causes the valve lifters to get &quot;stuck&quot; and what causes them to free up again without external intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T12:08:06.813" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T21:13:14.993" Title="Why do valve lifters get stuck? How come they unstick by themselves?" Tags="|engine|noise|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18118" CreationDate="2015-07-02T08:28:32.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine it is down to lubrication - if the engine isn't used for some time, the oil all seeps back down into the sump, and without lubrication, the lifters will stick. After running the engine again, oil has been pumped back up and worked it's way back around the lifters, lubricating them and freeing them up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:28:32.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18117" CreationDate="2015-07-02T08:32:42.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect some kind of blockage or restriction in the filler - possibly the hose itself has partially collapsed, or the non-return valve is stuck, stopping the fuel from running down into the tank properly - by the time you got to the second service station, the fuel had worked it's way past the obstruction into the tank, so you could do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:32:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17874" CreationDate="2015-07-02T09:00:02.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All your codes are from different areas but can be from the same place. It's ABS, Brakes, Axle solenoids and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you or your mechanics forgot to connect one of big connectors with several wires that are causing your problems. Try to look for unplugged connectors under your trunk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T09:00:02.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2015-07-02T10:07:57.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A two piece shaft is used to prevent the shaft from bending at high RPM. This is know as the whipping effect. As the shaft will not bend, therefore the transmission tunnel or floor above the shaft can be lower allowing more room for passengers or goods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11100" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:07:57.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18127" CreationDate="2015-07-02T11:04:01.353" Score="7" ViewCount="10649" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 months ago I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helpfindmea.co.uk/cars/specs/cadillac-cts-specifications-825/cts-saloon-05-07-36-v6-sport-luxury-4dr-auto-specifications-31615.aspx&quot;&gt;Cadillac CTS 2007 3.6&lt;/a&gt; with 31k miles, next day I went to local garage and changed the oil, filters, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have driven 7k miles since and when driving last week car started feeling 'not right' I went to local halfords service to do diagnostics. Then discovered cylinders misfiring and only around 1 litre of oil in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do drive it excessively (that should increase usage) still oil consumption sounds to much for what I am used to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I didn't see any blue fumes coming out of exhaust, so engine would seem to not be leaking oil into combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is such consumption considered to be normal? What oil consumption should I expect?&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T00:00:24.960" Title="Cadillac CTS 2007 3.6 oil consumption" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-leak|cadillac|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18125" CreationDate="2015-07-02T11:39:51.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, oil consumption in these engines can be quite large. GM has put out service bulletins which says that engine use up to 1 quart per 2000 miles is perfectly normal. I found some information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-engines-system-technical-discussion/118997-gm-oil-consumption-tsb-2007-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the bulletin&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; - I was unable to find the actual bulletin, but the following is an excerpt from it, which was copied into the forum link I provided above. Scroll down to entry #3 to find the bulletin in it's entirety.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aggressive Driving High Speed or High RPM Driving&#xA;Aggressive driving and/or continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs will increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher rate of oil consumption is normal for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions that are driven aggressively. By &amp;quot;aggressive,&amp;quot; we mean operation at high RPM (3,000 RPM to redline), with frequent use of engine braking (using the engine to slow the vehicle). &lt;strong&gt;Vehicles that are driven aggressively may consume engine oil at a rate of up to 0.946 L (1 quart) every 805 km (500 mi).&lt;/strong&gt; This is normal for a vehicle that is driven aggressively. No repair is necessary. This characteristic does, however, require the owner to check the engine oil level at sufficiently frequent intervals, especially when driving aggressively, to assure the oil level remains within the recommended operating range. As the Owner's Manual recommends, you should check the oil level every time you get fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While whether you or I feel this amount of consumption is wrong, GM doesn't seem to think so. It may or may not be a cop-out by GM in not having to fix the engines, but it is what it is. With the bulletin GM is saying to the consumer, &lt;em&gt;live with it&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you is to ensure you are keeping up with the oil changes and ensure every time you stop for gas (if not sooner) you are checking the oil to see how much you'll need to add. Buy the oil by the case and call it a day. My 2006 Chevrolet Silverado suffers from the same fate, though not as extensive as what you are seeing. I use about 3 quarts per oil change. Since I use the oil life monitor to change the oil, I really don't know how many miles that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:21:37.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18118" CreationDate="2015-07-02T11:54:56.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a great article out there on the interwebz which explains this very well (and confirms my line of thinking) for the BMW M62 engine. I'm sure the explanation is pretty much the same for other engines of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the author of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/BMW_M60_M62_M62TU_Engine_Scary_Noises.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article&lt;/a&gt; states these engines do not have rocker arms, but instead uses a cam on lifter on valve setup. The lifter in this case is a two piece design with a spring in between. When the lifter sits for too long a period without being run, the oil will drain out of it. This allows the lifter to completely collapse until the lifter can be filled again. During collapse, both sides (top and bottom) impact each other and thus creates the noise you are talking about. He states there are three conditions where this will happen more frequently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine oil level is low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the oil is too viscous &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the car is only used for short journeys where the oil fails too reach temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also states this is perfectly normal and will not cause wear or failure. Anyway, there is a lot of good information and illustrations in the article, so is a good read on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T11:54:56.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18118" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:12:20.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked on the lifters in a Dodge 6G72 engine ( and also the Dodge 2.2/2.5L engines).  The lifters are oil filled.  There is a tiny valve on them that allows oil in.  When the vehicle has not been run for a while, or runs low on oil, the lifters will loose oil.  As oil pressure build up, they will 'pump up'.  So the issue is not that they are sticking, it is that they are compressing all the way when usually they do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cleaned them before by placing them in gasoline and pressing the valve to release the oil.  At this point, I can easily compress them by hand.  Then I put them in oil and press the valve to fill them up again.  They are then very hard to compress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds very similar to what Paulster2 is describing, except the 6G72 (and dodge 2.2/2.5) do use rocker arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:12:20.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18117" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:15:26.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '06 Silverado does something similar, though I don't have any gas which comes back out at me if I try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply what I do to avoid having the gas filler nozzle not click off on me is to rotate the nozzle about 45° counter-clockwise, so the nozzle and filler hose are at about the 10 to 4 o'clock orientation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcI6r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please forgive my crude PowerPoint representation.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:15:26.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17412" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:50:04.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nature of your problem suggests a vacuum leak and the gas smell suggests an evaporative emissions control (EVAP) leak. Might be worth a check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11103" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:50:04.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18069" CreationDate="2015-07-02T12:56:48.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil pan is not a regular wear item, though it might need to be replaced if it's rusted, cracked and/or leaking. Welding an oil pan is difficult, time consuming and not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11103" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T12:56:48.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T14:01:04.497" Score="4" ViewCount="3487" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has a 2013 Lexus RX 350. Today was the first time we noticed a low rumbling sound coming from the brakes when they are pushed. We've had a maintenance check with no issues a month ago. Any thoughts what might be causing this sound, and if there is anything we should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11104" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:12:20.323" Title="Rumbling sound from brakes in Lexus" Tags="|brakes|noise|lexus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17874" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:11:54.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the ABS/ESP control unit located in the vicinity of the intake manifold? Did you try removing the connector of ABS/ESP control unit?Check whether the ABS/ESP control unit is communicating with the scanner. All the fault codes point to issue in ABS/ESP control unit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:11:54.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18133" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:44:52.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things this could be. The simplest (and cheapest!) is the brake pad wear sensor - telling you the pads are getting low and need to be replaced. You should be able to tell this by looking at the pads (you may need to take the wheels off to do so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell if it comes from one particular wheel, or more than one? Is it more of a rumbling or a grinding type sound? Does it only do it in a straight line, or when cornering, or both? Does it change in volume or pitch as you press the brake pedal harder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:44:52.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24195" CreationDate="2015-07-02T17:40:44.573" Score="7" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Mazda 626 which had its brake service light come on some time back, and the brakes became spongy and ceased functioning properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the brake lines.  The brakes worked properly for a short time (2 or 3 weeks maximum?) and then ceased working again.  I noticed what I thought was brake fluid on a cable/line that runs to the rear of the vehicle... I didn't look closely but assumed it was part of the braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried calling the mechanic 3 times already and left (polite) messages but no call back.  I'm not counting on getting any help from him on this and would like to tackle fixing the problem myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is that:  Is there a common reason why this might happen after a brake line replacement, and what is the best way for me to determine the actual cause of the problem and repair it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help and advice that you can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11111" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T19:59:13.493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:31:13.950" Title="Brake fluid leak after recent brake line replacement" Tags="|brakes|mazda|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18076" CreationDate="2015-07-02T17:55:24.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr Yes.  More boost =&gt; more air at higher temperatures =&gt; more fuel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your instincts are correct.  If you drive around without loading the engine, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2739/57&quot;&gt;the turbo won't spin up nearly so much&lt;/a&gt;.  More importantly, it won't produce much boost and won't require much more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a super basic level, there are four things that happen when your turbo starts &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger#Operating_principle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;generating significant boost&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More air per unit volume is being forced into the intake (thus the name forced induction).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine computer has to add more fuel to balance.  The absolute best efficiency that we could ever achieve at this point in the process is the stochiometric ratio of approximately 14:1 air to fuel ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the air is forced into the intake tract, however, it's also heating up.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/508/57&quot;&gt;The ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt; is a reasonable approximation for about how much it's heating up but the point is it's quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now the engine computer has to add even more fuel, except that this time, the fuel acts as a coolant to the mixture.  The goal of this step is to keep the engine from literally detonating due to premature ignition from the increased temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, we turbo people would like to maximize step 1 and we'll accept step 2 as a natural consequence.  However, we'd also like to minimize step 3 and avoid step 4 entirely if possible.  This is where components like cool air intakes (to start with the lowest possible starting point) and intercoolers (to try to lower the temperatures of the intake charge after the turbo) become important.  If you're really feeling excitable, you can replace a small turbo with a larger, higher efficiency one.  This can get you to higher boost levels at lower temperatures but will also delay the onset of boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, everything is a trade-off in this sort of engineering problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, you're still right.  If you use less throttle and keep the boost levels down, you'll use less fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T17:55:24.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2015-07-02T20:13:01.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I overfilled my brand new Craftsman Lawn Mower.  Would NOT turn over at all.  Drained the oil down to the proper level and cleaned up the spark plug.  It fired up and there was a bit of white smoke but that soon dissipated.  Has worked fine since!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11112" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T20:13:01.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;GPS = Global Positioning System&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a space-based satellite navigation system that provides location and time information in all weather conditions, anywhere on or near the earth where there is an unobstructed line of sight to four or more GPS satellites. The system provides critical capabilities to military, civil, and commercial users around the world. The United States government created the system, maintains it, and makes it freely accessible to anyone with a GPS receiver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US began the GPS project in 1973 to overcome the limitations of previous navigation systems, integrating ideas from several predecessors, including a number of classified engineering design studies from the 1960s. The U.S. Department of Defense (DoD) developed the system, which originally used 24 satellites. It became fully operational in 1995. Bradford Parkinson, Roger L. Easton, and Ivan A. Getting are credited with inventing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advances in technology and new demands on the existing system have now led to efforts to modernize the GPS system and implement the next generation of GPS Block IIIA satellites and Next Generation Operational Control System (OCX). Announcements from Vice President Al Gore and the White House in 1998 initiated these changes. In 2000, the U.S. Congress authorized the modernization effort, GPS III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to GPS, other systems are in use or under development. The Russian Global Navigation Satellite System (GLONASS) was developed contemporaneously with GPS, but suffered from incomplete coverage of the globe until the mid-2000s. There are also the planned European Union Galileo positioning system, India's Indian Regional Navigation Satellite System, and the Chinese BeiDou Navigation Satellite System.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: This entire part was taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_Positioning_System&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18142" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" Score="0" Body="Acronym for Global Positioning System." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T21:06:43.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of an internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the valve is to allow air in at the proper time (as directed by the cam) and to seal the combustion chamber during the combustion cycle to allow the burning of the air/fuel mixture to create power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In modern vehicles, the valve is located in the cylinder head, though in small engines and older flat head engines, the valves are located in the block. Valves are actuated by the cam shaft directly or indirectly, depending on the setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves seal the combustion chamber by having a symbiotic relationship with the valve seat. During the assembly process, each valve is &quot;lapped&quot; with it's associated seat to create a complete seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many late model engines (and performance engines), the intake valves are made of an alloy called “Silchrome 1” (Sil 1) that contains 8.5 percent chromium. Exhaust valves may be made from a martensitic steel with chrome and silicon alloys, or a two- piece valve with a stainless steel head and martensitic steel stem. The intake valve can be made with a hollow stem to save weight. The exhaust valve can be filled with sodium, which turns to liquid and back to solid, which helps with the cooling of the valve. Both of these valve variations are usually used in high-performance applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves can be actuated directly by the cam shaft as in most overhead cam applications (though there is almost always a lifter in between cam and the valve). Valves can also be indirectly actuated through the use of rocker arms and push rods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" Score="0" Body="Refers to engine intake or exhaust valves. " OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T21:22:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T04:38:43.723" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question: I have a 2008 Honda Civic. It has been sitting for almost 4 months now, and there will be no chance to drive it for another month or so, making it 5 months in total. I believe the oil was at an okay level, along with the gas when it was left. What type of problems should I expect? Should I bring a mechanic with me when I go to start it up for the first time again? I am completely incompetent when it comes to cars so I will likely need someone else to do any immediate work on the vehicle, should it be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11116" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:53:41.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:53:41.053" Title="Leaving '08 Civic sitting for a few months" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-03T14:25:17.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T06:23:02.300" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car cut off when going down the road. It would not would not crank until after about 30 minutes. Than it ran for 10 minutes and cut off again. Can anyone suggest what may be wrong&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11117" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T08:17:01.027" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T08:17:01.027" Title="94 Camry Le shut off going down the road; cranks only after cooled, then shuts off again" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-23T02:51:52.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18150" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:04:02.500" Score="24" ViewCount="256224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I use the car on daily basis, but there are months when I don't use it at all, and it sits parked outside for 5+ weeks, with the battery disconnected. (Main reasons: working from home that time, excellent coverage of city by public transport.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But friends say that sitting unused for longer time is not good for the car and it should be used at least once per two weeks. Is it true? &lt;strong&gt;What parts/systems can deteriorate in condition if not frequently used?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make: Opel Zafira B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel: main: CNG (compressed natural gas), secondary: petrol (seamless switching between the two)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City climate: mild (winter -5°C (23°F), summer: 29°C (84°F))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;          1) note: bi-fuel came from manufacturer (no modifications); CNG fuel is different from LPG&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T20:40:33.250" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T19:28:11.907" Title="What damage does a car suffer if not regularly used?" Tags="|parts|damage|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:38:04.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry rot of the cambelt and the tires could be an issue. Maybe also potential rust of the exhaust parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="11074" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T11:58:56.660" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:58:56.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:39:39.563" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of checking, three things; the battery, anything that is rubber (serpentine belt, tyres) and the fluids (oils, coolant).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery&lt;/strong&gt;: Even if you disconnect the battery, it cannot retain all the juice inside forever and it will drain eventually. This will reduce its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;: Your various belts and wires can get corroded if not used over a long period; the serpentine belt can get corroded, some animal can chew up the wire or do damage when it's resting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your valves and cylinder walls might get corroded due to lack of any oil or movement inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;: This happened to me personally where they lose their grip over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above things can go bad, additionally your wheels can get jammed if not used for months, and if you are near a coastal area, your can can be prone to faster corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrical&lt;/strong&gt;: Sometimes the interior electricals tend to develop a fault such as the power windows get jammed, electric seats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AC Gas leak:&lt;/strong&gt; Cars that are not used over a long time might cause ineffective cooling from the Air Conditioner and will need to be recharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluids&lt;/strong&gt;: Most of the fluids, like engine oil/brake fluid, break down, they lose their ability to lubricate eventually though this takes much much longer like half a year or so; but still you will need to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since yours is a CNG vehicle, check if the hoses are fine and have not developed a leakage. I would also advise to use petrol if it's going to be intermittent usage since the gas does not lubricate the engine component such as valves as much as petrol; this will not cause any serious harm but it's better to use petrol for a few miles initially and then switch to LPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car is designed to be run like a horse, you cannot get a horse and make it stand all day, you don't buy a horse to pet it, they are meant to be ridden else they will develop problems (or whatever horses become if not ridden).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T10:31:07.757" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T10:31:07.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:48:47.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an android head unit that suffers (like most stereos) a power drop/fail on starting the car. While the unit is engineered to retain OS power for a few seconds,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the dvd player has to restart, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(more importantly) the bluetooth restarts, momentarily dropping the connection with the ODB adaptor and resetting trip calculations in Torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of adding a smallish SLA battery (6Ah) for 3 purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the stereo powered for engine starts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep power to the head unit (it has an off mode that disables everything incl screen, but keeps android running)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable running for shortish periods for &quot;normal volume&quot; music etc (1-30 min)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not wanting a huge outlay or vehicle modification, so am considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cutting the existing stereo power and making a power triangle:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diode and 1A fuse from car battery to aux for charging (but not overcharging)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diode and 5 or 10A fuse from aux batt to stereo to for power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diode from car batt to stereo to stop the aux powering other circuits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Earthing negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work well? Will an SLA overcharge and gas off at car voltages? How much does a SLA demand at different charge/voltage levels? (Mainly my google foo is not helping, and gives me what a charger &quot;should&quot; do - interested in charging fuse size and battery longevity.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm having trouble finding 10A diodes - It seems I could use a bridge rectifier for my scenario as well - yes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I'll get my ammeter out and update with my expected current usage scenarios tomorrow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11119" LastEditorUserId="10771" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T22:28:40.683" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T20:29:19.080" Title="Second battery for Android Stereo" Tags="|electrical|battery|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18224" CreationDate="2015-07-03T13:28:45.930" Score="8" ViewCount="55428" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car was recently stolen in the middle of the night, and I just bought a replacement.  I'd like a simple, cheap way of disabling the vehicle, and I was thinking of doing something like just pulling the fuel pump fuse out every night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I ran across this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/15427/7132&quot;&gt;comment in another post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd also rather not pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, because that seems like a recipe for coming back to a dead battery should the car be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some fundamental problem with leaving the fuel pump fuse out over night, or is it just an issue of the potential thief cranking and cranking the engine in a futile attempt to start it and draining the battery? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, it's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NgJKQXvYhVI?t=1m14s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.6L 1999 Nissan Almera&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, my car apparently doesn't have a fuel pump fuse, so in the mean time I'm pulling the starter fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T05:03:50.077" Title="Preventing Car Theft by Removing Fuses" Tags="|fuse|theft-prevention|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2015-07-03T13:34:08.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anarach has provided a good survey of the Backfire (or afterfire in this case, if you're being pedantic) phenomenon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I will attempt to add to that keeping it specific to the H2R.&#xA;Watch this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYYiSqMh8hs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, the flames are a lot more exaggerated in this case.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The H2R, is a track-only &lt;em&gt;hyper-sport&lt;/em&gt; bike with every consideration given to make the engine produce most amount of power and so emissions and noise take the non-existing back seat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now that that's out of the way.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterfire between shifts&lt;/strong&gt; - The H2R comes stock with a quick-shifter. After the initial 2 shifts (in the video you provided), the rider begins to use the quickshifter for clutchless full throttle upshifts. The quick-shifter works by cutting the ignition to help unload the gear and then progressively re-applying power (Using either the electronic throttle body and/or solely controlling the ignition). Cutting the ignition will have the effect of unburnt fuel going out the exhaust where it ignites due to high exhaust temperature.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterfire as a consequence of the tune&lt;/strong&gt; - As anarach explained - rich mixture.  In performance applications, this could have multiple causes - &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixture is sometimes intentionally kept rich to cool the flame-front and prevent detonation in high compression ratio/ forced induction engines (H2R is supercharged)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly closing the throttle - As seen in the video, causes the mixture to become rich.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opening the throttle quickly while the engine is being overrun - Engine is tuned for quick throttle response, and hence slightly overcompensates when encountering little rotational inertia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Braking control setting - Not relevant in this case, but in the case of formula 1, some cars intentionally run hot exhaust on closing throttle to aid to aid downforce (or rather to keep it consistent and prevent suddenly losing downforce) as the exhaust, by design, flows over the rear wing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterfire on hitting the rev-limitter&lt;/strong&gt; - As seen in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wYYiSqMh8hs?t=5m24s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video (this link takes you to the exact time)&lt;/a&gt; added in this answer. Ignition is cut to keep the engine within RPM limit. This, like in the case of the quickshifter, causes unburnt fuel to burn anywhere within or outside the exhaust. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as anarach explained - having a free flow exhausts just brings everything out. There's no sound muffling, and flames can be openly seen.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As an addition - Afterfires can also occur (quite easily) on an extremely lean mix as it burns much slower and as a consequence continues to burn through the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T17:17:13.273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:17:13.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18153" CreationDate="2015-07-03T13:53:26.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help to know what type of car it is but on a petrol vehicle, a quick and easy solution is to remove the king lead from the coil (it's the one that runs to the centre of the distributer cap).  No coil lead means no spark which on a petrol car means it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this won't work on a Diesel as these don't rely on spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T13:53:26.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18153" CreationDate="2015-07-03T14:31:22.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, simply unplugging a fuse isn't going to stop a determined thief, as they often tow cars away rather than going to the noise and effort of trying to start them... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest some kind of physical lock, either on the steering wheel, gear lever/handbrake, or similar - they often act as a visual deterrent to casual thieves as well, who will go for an easier target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T14:31:22.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-03T14:47:24.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Friends say that sitting unused for longer time is not good for the car and it should be used at least once per two weeks. Is it true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is absolutely true. The biggest thing to worry about here is dried out seals. When a seal (like an engine rear main seal and differential seals) are left unused for long periods of time, the dry out. When this happens and you use the vehicle, it has a tendency to rip/tear the seals and can cause massive oil leaks. These seals are usually in bad spots where you cannot easily get to them, which means they cost to get replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Condition of what parts/systems can deteriorate if not frequently used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNG will not go bad over time, mainly because it's a closed system. The gas (petrol) on the other hand will. Two easy ways to help prevent issues. 1) Top off the fuel tank prior to known periods of the &quot;long sit&quot;. This helps prevent the fuel from absorbing water and causing rust issues in the tank. 2) Utilize a fuel stabilizer to keep the fuel fresh. Most of these stabilizers will keep fuel fresh for a year or longer, depending on how it's used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already mentioned seals, so won't reiterate here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do use the car, you want to ensure the engine is completely warmed up and used completely warm for several miles (10 or more). When you just run the vehicle for a short period of time, moisture tends to form inside the engine crankcase. This moisture can cause pitting and corrosion on internal engine parts. By running it up to temperature, you are in essence &lt;em&gt;boiling&lt;/em&gt; the water away (causing it to evaporate) where it won't cause you any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know it it going to be sitting, you need to purchase a battery tender. This is a small battery charger which keeps your battery levels up to where they should be. It also helps with the condition of your battery. By using it, the battery will stay in as good of condition as it can. When you go out to start your vehicle, disconnect (many have quick disconnects which come with them) and your car should start right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake rotors friction surfaces may become slightly rusted over the long period of time. This should not be anything to worry about. It is basically a surface rust which will be worn off during your first run with the vehicle. You may want to not over tax the brakes (get into a situation where you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need them) until they are cleaned off, but it shouldn't cause any issues. You will not want to use your parking brake, as brakes can become rusted to the disk/drum and won't want to release. Park your car on a flat surface and it shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T14:47:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T14:57:55.240" Score="1" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer.I was driving about 110 km/hr and then my car started to lose speed. I was pressing on the gas pedal but it was like it lost the ability to work. My battery light and a light that is an exclamation went on. I pulled over, turned off the car and turned it back on. Everything seemed fine and the lights were off so I started to speed up again. Then it happened again so I had it towed to my mechanic. He is on vacation and I am curious what it could be. Just looking for some answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11122" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T15:04:00.257" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T15:04:00.257" Title="Gas pedal suddenly not giving power to my car" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-23T02:52:26.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-03T15:09:41.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alongside what has been discussed above, there can be issues if the car gets damp or takes in water.  If this pools in the car it can cause corrosion, it can also cause mold on seat fabric, seat belts and trim.  A car which is used everyday is unlikely to suffer from damp in the same way because you would typically use the fans, AC, heater or even open a window so there was air flow and the car was a comfortable temperature.  This prevents the inside of the car from becoming damp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have an old Golf which used to be our main family car.  We couldn't bear to part with it so it's not retired to light duties.  Provided the weather is not bad, I take it to work with me (50 mile round trip) on a Friday specifically to counteract the horrors of a car which is left unused for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T15:09:41.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2015-07-03T17:47:25.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 92 Explorer takes the type 9004 bulb. You should try replacing just one bulb first to see if the high beams come on for that bulb and if so, then replace the other one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, what you can do is that while wearing gloves, remove one of the bulbs and inspect it. If one of its two filaments (wires) is broken, then definitely a bulb replacement will help. You should wear gloves because the bulbs are very sensitive to skin oils and touching the glass with skin will cause them to fail very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:47:25.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18167" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:10:51.213" Score="1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it can be hard to tell when your vehicle needs an alignment other than when there are obvious warning signs. For example, steering wheel off center when driving straight, car veering to one side, or steering wheel vibration. Some say it is necessary to get an alignment after modifying suspension components or changing wheels/tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking for is an all out checklist to use as a guide of when to get alignment, specifically after certain modifications are made. I think it will be beneficial to include when it is &lt;strong&gt;necessary&lt;/strong&gt; versus when it is &lt;strong&gt;advisable&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**For my purpose in asking this question; I recently changed my wheels where the offset is about a 20mm difference. An alignment was done recently but before the change. I'm also looking at upgrading suspension components, such as, sway bars, end links, camber bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T18:54:34.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:41:05.427" Title="When to get an alignment" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18172" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:13:33.297" Score="4" ViewCount="2098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought new wiper blades for a Honda Civic coupe, not realizing that apparently, the blades are not supposed to be of equal size. Looking at this, however, it looks as though I might be able to adjust the length of the wiper arms themselves to accomodate the new blades correctly. (As an upside, this would provide extra windshield coverage for the wiper blades.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible? It seems like these should be adjustable in some way, shape, or form, but I'm not sure how to do it. I'd imagine that maybe the carrier arm would slide further back into the housing itself, where the spring is located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Additionally, why are the wiper arms different sizes for this type of car? Is it just due to where they positioned the wiper mounts?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! Sorry for the misuse of any terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11129" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T19:41:34.350" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T10:16:15.807" Title="Can windshield wiper arms be shortened or lengthened?" Tags="|honda|civic|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18164" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:50:19.203" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T18:50:19.203" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T18:50:19.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18165" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:50:19.203" Score="0" Body="For mechanisms that protect a vehicle against theft or malicious damage." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T21:52:56.940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T21:52:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-03T19:10:23.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time the car sits idle, the tires develop flat spots. The longer it sits, the worse they get. The vast majority of tires on passenger vehicles are steel-belted radials: while the steel belts offer a high degree of strength, they do bend straight over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive every other week the flat spots will round out no problem with enough driving to heat the engine up to normal. If the car sits for too long they can become permanent. While the tire will still work, there will be an annoying sound from them when you drive and they will be out of balance as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another answer said it is important to drive a car 10+ miles every two or three weeks for other maintenance benefits: this is also true of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold temperatures exacerbate this issue: if you have cold winters I highly recommend driving the car &lt;em&gt;weekly&lt;/em&gt; because it pops out those flat spots, tops off the battery charge, oils up the internal engine seals, and everything else that driving does. This is critical in cold winter months because the low temperatures take whatever problems cars normally have, and makes them worse (battery drains faster, tire flat spots are harder to undo, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two vehicles. One is my beater commuter car which I drive several times per week, the other is my nicer car that I drive less. However, I make sure to drive it at least once per week for the reasons outlined in this and other answers and I never have any &quot;sat too long&quot; problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdote: the last car I bought had sat on the dealership lot for three months. The tires developed flat spots and had to be replaced (cheap factory tires anyway which had poor traction), and that was during the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4896" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:10:23.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18162" CreationDate="2015-07-03T19:41:05.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;necessary&lt;/strong&gt; that you get your vehicle aligned when doing any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any suspension work which might involve geometry (ie: bushings, ball joints, steering linkage, rack &amp;amp; pinion, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strut replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change of rims to different sizes (ie: non-standard, wider, taller, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the vehicle is pulling (see NOTE #1 below) to one side or the other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weird vibrations which cannot be accounted for by wheel/tire balancing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be &lt;strong&gt;advisable&lt;/strong&gt; to get an alignment done when: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put new tires on. This is more to protect your investment than to fix any issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you hit a large pothole hard. This may sometimes cause wheel alignment issues due to a small shift in the geometry caused by the pothole. This would also include curbs and speed bumps, as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anytime you suspect it could be out of alignment (due to reasons you've posted)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this list is &lt;em&gt;all inclusive&lt;/em&gt;. I'm sure there may be other reasons to get your alignment done, but I think this list will allow you to answer your own question and get you in a ballpark for whether you think it needs to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE #1:&lt;/strong&gt; Please realize when you are on one side or the other of the crown of the road, most vehicles will pull to the leaning side of the vehicle. This is normal, as gravity is pulling your vehicle this way, which pulls the steering in the same direction. As long as you are on a flat road surface and you are not detecting any pulling, your steering alignment is most likely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:41:05.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:02:11.723" Score="2" ViewCount="1755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevy Aveo, and the front passenger speaker has no sound. I was able to find a replacement, and swapped out the original speaker for the spare. Unfortunately, this did not help. I know the replacement speaker works (I tested it before installing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The car has factory audio. What else can I check?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1263" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T21:42:52.660" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:20:40.750" Title="No sound to single speaker, even after replacing the speaker" Tags="|chevrolet|audio|wiring|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19777" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:35:37.857" Score="3" ViewCount="26436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please list the windows on a vehicle starting from the front, i.e. the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three &quot;typical&quot; vehicles I'm thinking of are car/SUV, van, and truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for things like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The little triangle pieces that are sometimes in front of the front windows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triangle pieces after the rear windows &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The differentiation between the first set of back windows on a van and the second set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The small rectangle of glass on an extended cab truck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the other obscure windows I'm  forgetting about&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures might be helpful, but are not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T20:42:32.480" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T03:04:26.107" Title="What are the names of each window on a typical non-commercial vehicle?" Tags="|window|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18163" CreationDate="2015-07-03T21:31:56.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is possible to adjust the length of most wiper arms, but I don't think it is the best solution for your problem. It is not a common adjustment that one would make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size the wipers are based on the size of the windshield and the placement of the wiper mounts as you figured. They are at a fixed length to ensure they get full coverage of the windshield while providing enough clearance for the blades during movement. So as you adjust the wiper arm size, you would have to run tests to ensure that the blades get proper clearance (of each other) and coverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is stick with the manufactured specified size or very close to it. The wiper blade and arm are sized appropriately to ensure they work as intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T10:16:15.807" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T10:16:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T21:34:06.387" Score="5" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping to find some good advice on fixing my (above mentioned) motorcycle. I'll try to keep it brief but with as much details as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an issue with the bike and it sucked up some varnish from not properly winterizing the bike. I've since cleaned and used repair kits off ebay for the carburetor, siphoned out the old gas and replaced the gas filter. I've also had the battery on a trickle charger and had it tested twice by two different stores (both reported the battery is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to start the bike after the first round of fixes, it started to crank over with some throttle but didn't fire up and assumed that the engine may have flooded. So it was left for a few hours and on return after starting it sounded like the battery was dying. Now I'm at a point where the solenoid only clicks once when the start button is pressed. I've replaced the solenoid with a brand new one and I still haven't had any luck starting the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried bridging the solenoid to try and start the bike that way as well but with no luck. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong with the bike any more and I'm trying to save myself the money by going to a repair shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Added the year in the title&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11133" LastEditorUserId="11133" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T22:18:12.923" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T01:17:27.087" Title="2007 Hyosung GT250R not starting, some repairs have been made" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18176" CreationDate="2015-07-04T01:15:16.857" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I remove the non working a/c compressor from my '85 Chevy S 10 Pu truck? It is not working and I want to get it out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11134" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T03:03:03.233" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T01:01:38.333" Title="Air conditioning compressor" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|s10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:01:30.157" Score="0" ViewCount="1697" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-interference engine explanation animation/Videos ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did ask my Toyota dealer about published material on 1999 Camry 2.2 non-interference engine that did not cause piston hitting valves/ valve bent condition during timing belt slipping off spindle event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They did not find any. I searched toyota.com , gates.com &amp;amp; alldata nothing showed up.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any such material exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the generic piece &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samarins.com/glossary/dohc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.samarins.com/glossary/dohc.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page, from Gates' website : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/timing-system/automotive-timing-belts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/timing-system/automotive-timing-belts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It explains only one part,  Interference Engine. Did gates purposefully omit the Free Running explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toyota should be proud of explaining about their non-Interference Engine characteristics, but they are shying away in reality.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your comments  update 7/4/2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do see &quot;non-interference (or free running) motor does not have pistons and valves which share the same space - if the cam/valve timing is interrupted, no damage between cam and valve should occur.&quot; in various blogs/forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does a mechanic learn/operate upon it? I did not find this info in repair manual/ALLDATA etc. Is it documented in repair steps?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does all non-interference (or free running) motor have same characteristics/behavior ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for sharing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastEditorUserId="7602" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T03:25:41.670" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T03:25:41.670" Title="Non-interference engine explanation animation/Videos?" Tags="|engine|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18174" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:12:57.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can remove it. Not knowing which engine you have in your vehicle, it's hard to tell you exactly what you'll need. Some engines, depending on the AC placement, will just require a shorter belt. Others will need a separate idler pulley which you put in place of the AC compressor. All it does it takes up the slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if you aren't too worried about the AC compressor and are just wanting to remove it, you may consider just leaving it in place. While the pulley on the AC does not create a lot of parasitic drag on the fan belt, because it is just free wheeling the pulley. It would act pretty much like what an idler pulley does if you need to put one back in the compressors place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:12:57.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:33:27.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about material showing the difference, but the explanation is pretty easy: an interference motor has pistons and valves which share the same space within the engine at different times - if the cam/valve timing gets interrupted for any reason, &lt;strong&gt;damage between cam and valve &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; occur&lt;/strong&gt;; the non-interference (or free running) motor does not have pistons and valves which share the same space - if the cam/valve timing is interrupted, &lt;strong&gt;no damage&lt;/strong&gt; between cam and valve &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; occur. (NOTE: There are engines out there which are touted as &lt;em&gt;non-interference&lt;/em&gt;, but this means no piston to valve interference. These same engines may have &lt;em&gt;valve to valve&lt;/em&gt; interference. This refers to some of the newer engines, which have DOHC and four valves per cylinder.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:33:27.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T08:38:13.920" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some help needed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Piaggio 250 mp3 scooter. After a few weeks of stalling at traffic lights, it finally refused to start engine at all. I've tried the garage but they didn't repair it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try the basics on the engine myself (valves cleaning, spark, etc), but my main problem is just opening and getting access to the engine itself. The user manual doesn't say anything about it, but its not obvious at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pdf, links, videos or forum you can recommend would greatly help.    Thanks in advance,            a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11135" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:42:56.860" Title="Access to Piaggio MP3 engine" Tags="|engine|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15099" CreationDate="2015-07-04T08:44:58.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in fact through &quot;middle-man&quot; voltages via a device that can mimic voltage and packets sent to the ECU that extrapolates the data and in-turn controls the way your car runs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course the model of car, and usually the newer (more control/sensors) all matter in what capabilities for which you are limited to with just a plug and play. However, stand-alone hardware is very simple with a harness to your type of vehicle, in which it literally is intercepted before it ever reaches the cpu (ie. throttle, fuel trims, ping, etc.) are received by your stand-alone hardware and you are able to change everything that is controlled by the computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11136" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T10:28:25.617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T10:28:25.617" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18181" CreationDate="2015-07-04T15:37:47.483" Score="4" ViewCount="4095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Mazda MX5 mk2 1.6L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had severe problems with engine misfiring, caused by the valve cover seal, to leak. The oil that was leaking was concentrated near the spark plugs, and periodically it grounded them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I had the seal changed. The leak stopped, and the repair was a success. However, due to everything being covered by the oil, the misfires continued, which I considered normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the spark plugs and the plug wires, were in a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I changed the spark plugs, to new NGK ZFR5F-11, with the gap set to 1.1mm, and the plug wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine now run very smoothly with no sign of misfiring. However I noticed a SEVERE loss of power, both at low and high RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the plug change, sometime the engine worked without misfiring and was delivering the proper power, so I can compare before and after in a few hours of time difference between the test drives. This leads me to be heavily biased to blaming the spark plug change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may I have done wrong?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(1.1mm is what Mazda recommends, ZFR5F-11 are considered a very good option for this car, they are long-reach, as were the previous ones, and firing order is definitely set correctly.)&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11140" LastEditorUserId="11140" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T15:45:55.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T15:58:28.060" Title="MX5 lost power after spark plug change" Tags="|mazda|sparkplugs|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18180" CreationDate="2015-07-04T15:58:28.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure all of your spark plug boots are fully seated. Also, use dielectric grease in the boots to ensure you can pull them off easily the next time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure you have the wires going to the correct spark plug. It's easy to switch two of these out, which will cause a major power decrease.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull a single spark plug out and ensure it is still gapped correctly. Since these are not stock spark plugs, they may be a bit longer than you'd expect. If you noticed that the gap has decreased, this may be a sign the piston has ran into the spark plug and closed the gap. If this has happened, either get shorter spark plugs, or you could also try a second washer/seal on the spark plug, which will pull it back slightly, out of the way of the piston.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the battery power and allow the car to sit for 30 minutes. This will reset the ECM and bring the fuel map back to stock and allow the computer to relearn for the new plugs and wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to ensure you didn't dislodge any vacuum lines or other connections when doing the plug/wire change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to ensure your intake tract didn't get dislodged somehow during the plug/wire change. If it's now getting unmetered air into the system, it could be wreaking havoc with your power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully one of these things will help with your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T15:58:28.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T16:10:23.043" Score="2" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 euro van engine shuts off when reaching altitude of 9000 feet in mountains. After standing for 20 minutes, it starts. This happened twice but ran well when not in the mountains. Similar to cars with carburetor that get vapor lock. What could be the problem? I had new plugs, gas filter, and air filter work done. Could this be bad gas cap. It does not overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11141" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T16:49:43.397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T16:49:43.397" Title="Be van with problem at higher altitudes" Tags="|engine|vw|stall|euro-van|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T12:39:48.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18184" CreationDate="2015-07-04T16:45:05.517" Score="5" ViewCount="5714" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a stress riser and why is it important to avoid them during engine construction or rebuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T19:20:52.717" Title="What is a stress riser?" Tags="|engine|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18183" CreationDate="2015-07-04T16:48:01.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stress riser (also known as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stress concentration or stress raiser&lt;/a&gt;) is so called because there is more stress in one area which can cause fatigue cracks and ultimately cause part failure. This can happen in any part in the engine, but some parts are more prone to stress than others, so would suffer sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stress riser can occur anywhere stress is concentrated. This normally happens where sharp edges are present. Normally, the rounder the object, the better the stress is distributed across the entire object. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to really understand is there are different types of loads. If there is no load on an object, no stress is occurring on it and stress risers don’t matter. In an engine, there are always loads being applied. The different types of loads are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axial load – can occur under &lt;em&gt;tension&lt;/em&gt; (piece is pulled at both ends) or &lt;em&gt;compression&lt;/em&gt; (where piece is pushed together from both ends). Examples: cylinder head studs; trailing arms; transverse link; connecting rods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bending load – distribution of stress varies from zero at neutral axis to maximum at surface(s). Examples: gear tooth; dead axle; leaf spring; suspension rocker; a cantilever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shear load – cross section of stress is uniform. Examples: clevises; rod end bearings; rivets/bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torsional load – twisting force on an object. Examples: torsion bar; drive shaft; crankshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any part in the engine must be able to withstand the stresses which are put against it. When it doesn’t withstand the stress, it fails. This failure doesn’t usually occur all at once (under huge stress it could, but we’ll not go down that road), but usually gradually over time until the part can no longer support the load and ultimately fails. Every load bearing member has to provide resistance to a load. When this load is applied, there is an elastic deformation which occurs in the material. There is no such thing as a perfectly stiff or absolutely rigid structure (read: immovable object/irresistible force). In order for the object to support a load, it has to be able to deform in some way or another. Think of a wooden deck you have attached to the rear of your house. As you step on a board, it supports the load, but it does bend somewhat in the process. This deformation is what we are talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stress risers always occur on the outside of an object. The reason is because this is where the maximum stress is located. The place of maximum stress (or where the stress riser is at) is the place at which cracks begin to form. There are two ways to stop or impede the progress of a crack formed at a stress riser. The first is by the reduction (or elimination) of the load, which usually happens as the load cycles. The second is in the structure of the metal itself. As the crystalline lattice is disturbed at the leading edge of the crack, progress is blocked. The problem is, once a crack has formed and is stopped by either the cycling of the load or the lattice crystalline structure, the cross section of the part has been reduced. Even if the next load cycle is the same as the previous load cycle, since the cross section is reduced, the stress is increased at this point. The crack becomes a &lt;em&gt;stress concentrator&lt;/em&gt;. As more load cycles occur, the crack will be elongated due to the stress concentration and because the crack itself will be jagged, which also helps promulgate the stress. As the load stress cycles and is released, it progresses as “crack, pause, crack, pause, etc.” until the part completely fails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stress risers are more pronounced at sharp edges. To help reduce the occurrences of stress risers, it is a good idea to reduce the sharp edges. A major occurrence of sharp edges inside of engines is due to casting flash. This is where the joint of the casting mold occurs which leave a sharp, pronounced edge. Here is a picture of what I’m talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXyHx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inside the red lines is casting flash. If you’ve ever rebuilt an engine, you know how sharp these areas can be. This is the lifter valley of a V8 engine. Casting flash can occur (as I stated) any place where two parts of a casting mold come together.  Another place to look for casting flash is on connecting rods. In the following picture, the top rod is stock in appearance and the bottom has had the casting flash removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jc4oN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may look at the top rod and ask yourself, “&lt;em&gt;This area does not look sharp. Why should I worry about that?&lt;/em&gt;”. The answer to your question is, the raised section, while not being sharp in feel, still provides a more pronounced area for a stress riser to occur. This area concentrates the stress. The bottom rod, after being cleaned up, actually will be structurally sounder because the stress has a lot less of a chance of concentrating and thus lessens the chance of stress risers. This process also makes the rod lighter, which means less mass being flung around. When doing this, you need to ensure the rods and pistons are balanced to ensure there aren’t any issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When rebuilding an engine, it is very good to go through the entire engine and remove all of the sharp edges you can. You can do this with a roll sanding tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljcTk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sanding rolls will quickly remove casting flash and smooth things up for you. You may need quite a few of them to through an entire block. Also, you can remove the sharp edges which have happened if you get your block decked, as the edges in these areas become sharp as well. Ensure you do not get over zealous and cause problems on your machined surfaces, though. Just be careful and take your time. You want it done right, which takes a bit of time to accomplish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot more to be told about metallurgy and the like, but I believe that is best left for a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T19:20:52.717" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T19:20:52.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:09:31.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the two screws out of circuit board and pulled the circuit board out found a broken solder point resoldered and it works fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11143" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:09:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11020" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:10:00.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;5000btu a/c with a Honda eu2000i generator. Generator will run 8 to 9 hrs off 1gallon of gas. I work in the oilfield and sit in my truck all day. This is what I use.  You can also run a phone charger and small radio with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11144" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:10:00.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26786" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:22:55.700" Score="6" ViewCount="100109" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can help me decode the following manufacturing code on &lt;strong&gt;EXIDE EA640&lt;/strong&gt; battery, especially&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;which &lt;strong&gt;production plant&lt;/strong&gt; has made it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what was &lt;strong&gt;the date of manufacturing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Code: 3EC28K5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps &lt;code&gt;28K&lt;/code&gt; means November 28 (of which year?), but I'm not sure. The battery was purchased in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The best will be if you can provide the entire key how to decode these numbers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="11120" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T20:19:28.850" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T17:40:18.517" Title="Getting information from manufacturing code on Exide car battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T19:29:23.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2015-07-04T21:41:28.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1144&amp;amp;dat=19870323&amp;amp;id=l5McAAAAIBAJ&amp;amp;sjid=NGMEAAAAIBAJ&amp;amp;pg=7008,4430147&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this (rather old) article&lt;/a&gt;, Exide uses the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forget the first two letters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next three are the letter month (C=March) and day (28) of the month&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Omit the letter K&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last number is the year it was made (5=2005 ... more than likely, depending on the age of the batter - If it looks older, it could be 1995, but that would be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; old)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T21:41:28.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18238" CreationDate="2015-07-05T09:08:21.167" Score="4" ViewCount="2447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the oil control rings might be worn to the point that you're burning significant amounts of oil, but the compression rings still be good?  Or do they typically wear out together such that burning oil and low cylinder pressure go hand in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2021-07-12T01:08:39.013" Title="Do Compression Rings and Oil Ring Wear at the Same Rate?" Tags="|engine|oil|compression|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18204" CreationDate="2015-07-05T14:42:25.540" Score="5" ViewCount="39247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took my 2006 VW Touareg in for servicing and had the dealership replace the rear brake pads and discs. In a post-replacement test drive the dealership discovered that one of the sides has a stuck caliper, and the brake doesn't want to let go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership called to check if we had experienced sticky brakes in the past. Having ruled that out as a possibility, they are now recommending to have the caliper replaced, and if that doesn't fix it the ABS unit as well - all at my expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reluctant to believe that the caliper failed at the same time the brake hardware was upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By suggesting the ABS unit, I believe they're simply insuring themselves against liability claims in the future (&quot;we told you so&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes were fine prior to the servicing and brake hardware refresh, so what could possibly have happened to cause one of the brakes to stick like that?&#xA;Could the presence of excessive brake fluid explain this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this question I'm looking to elicit &lt;em&gt;technical&lt;/em&gt; reasons for what could be causing one of the brakes to bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:37:27.207" Title="Seized brake caliper following brake pad &amp; disc replacement - what could be wrong?" Tags="|brakes|vw|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:18:51.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '71 FJ40.. The 4 Wheel drums, The mighty Cruiser's weak link, were a disaster, always were, leaky wheel cylinders and so many of them! 5 years ago I went with the JT outfitters disk kit.. front and back. When you do something that is so much more safer..You are not desecrating the mighty Cruiser. I keep mine quite stock (no lift no huge tires no cutting of body) Over 35 years of owning this 40, The best thing I ever did (other than buy it) was install the disc brakes...Period&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11156" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:18:51.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:35:36.623" Score="3" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 with 160k on the 3.5 motor. Around 155k the brake pedal went hard and spongy. Also, about 1 in every 40-50 times I start it cold, the starter will turn without a successful start. After this occurs, it starts immediately without a problem.&#xA;The starter motor was replaced about 36 months ago at 140k. &#xA;I'm suspicious it's a vacuum leak, but it doesn't hiss at idle. &#xA;Could it all be a vacuum leak or could I have a bad starter as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T19:14:56.303" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:21:28.030" Title="2006 Pontiac g6 rough idle and intermittent spongy brake and starting issue" Tags="|engine|brakes|starting|pontiac|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:36:58.953" Score="6" ViewCount="11385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am out of town with my Tahoe and getting the message &quot;Engine Coolant Hot&quot; on my dash message system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it pops up I notice that the temp gauge goes up almost to the red line.  Also the air conditioning stops being cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we wait a moment or we toggle the air conditioner on and off it seems to fix itself and the temp gauge instantly goes all the back down to a normal range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9346" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T19:11:23.053" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T06:01:57.963" Title="04 Tahoe &quot;Engine Coolant Hot&quot; message" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|overheating|tahoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:41:57.173" Score="3" ViewCount="1354" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 92 Ford Explorer I have a terrible power steering fluid leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone turns the whee all the way left or right RIGHT before it hits the turn lock, fluid starts squirting out of one of the hoses like a pressure washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need a normal wrench to remove the top portion of the hose connected to the pump, but what about the other end? It looks difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:00:00.863" Title="Replacing the power steering hose(s)" Tags="|power-steering|replace|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:47:22.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 VW Jetta GLS:  always using full synthetic oil (Castro Edge 5w30) how often should the oil be changed? Can't find my manual or info online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T21:54:52.873" Title="synthetic oil change frequency" Tags="|oil|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:55:33.097" Score="1" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 VW Jetta A/C started blowing hot air this morning on way to work. What could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11157" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T17:55:33.097" Title="A/C now blowing hot air" Tags="|vw|ac|jetta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:52:28.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T17:58:14.723" Score="2" ViewCount="578" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the ideal range to pull handbrake on and engage so vehicle doesn't move on a hill on a Ford focus climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11158" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T18:39:14.267" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T10:43:05.830" Title="Handbrake not engaging on hills" Tags="|ford|focus|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T18:53:59.157" Score="3" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle has no power.. she will drive and reach normal driving speeds for both town driving or open road..however when i need to gear down to overtake or when i need power, she falters and starts to hold back..the car drives like a 850cc mini..absolutely no power whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11159" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:47:28.113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:47:28.113" Title="Renault kangoo 1.4 2006 has no power" Tags="|power|renault|clio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18199" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:10:21.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on which engine you have, but following &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Maintenance+Schedule+-+2004+-+Jetta,+Golf,+GTI,+Jetta+Wagon,+R32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guideline&lt;/a&gt;, you should do as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Engine           Frequency&#xA;TDI              First @ 5k miles, then @ 10k, then every 10k miles&#xA;1.8T             Every 5k miles&#xA;2.0L             First @ 5k miles, then @ 10k, then every 10k miles&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I don't actually believe the 2.0L came in the 2004, just the TDI or 1.8T, but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T19:10:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:41:03.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like they cocked the piston in the caliper sideways when they collapsed it during the brake job. This could be caused from a worn caliper piston. It may or may not have been their fault, but would be hard to prove. My suggestion is to have the caliper replaced. This &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; fix the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any way this could be related to the ABS unit, unless they think the brake fluid is not being allowed to migrate back up the lines after braking. I've not heard of a unit creating it's own one way check valve, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the Toureg's brakes transition (slide). This may be an area of concern as well. If the slides are rusted or otherwise obstructed, this could be causing an issue, but would assume the mechanic would have picked up on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T19:41:03.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T21:48:53.420" Score="3" ViewCount="1710" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Mondeo 2012 1.6 TDCi DPF SS 115. At 15,500 mls I am experiencing a knocking sound when raising the clutch pedal but only when the engine is running. The sound outside the car is really loud. It is still in warranty. Initially Evans Halshaw said they could hear it but needed the car for 2 days. During that time all they did was a couple of road tests to advise me that the noise was normal and acceptable and a characteristic of the vehicle. They also said there was a small amount of backlash in gear. They suggested they have spoken to Ford who also said it was normal.  So why am I just experiencing the noise? I am concerned as there is so much talk of manufacturers denying responsibility and avoiding warranty work, and a lot of concerns about the Dual Mass Clutch. A problem now will only get worse, what can I do now except put it back in again, to expect the same answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11161" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T21:58:00.990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:37:34.163" Title="Is the knock an early sign of Dual Mass Flywheel problem. Main dealer says acceptable noise?" Tags="|ford|clutch|mondeo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18209" CreationDate="2015-07-05T21:58:58.020" Score="9" ViewCount="2389" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjYKo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual, the &quot;permissible&quot; load for the standard rails is 35kg. I need to take two Kayaks around with me, which in total weight is about 40-45kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I unintentionally turn my 2003 Opel Agila into a convertible by putting 45kg on there and then doing some motorway driving (70-80mph)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: I cover up the cockpit of the kayak, so it doesn't turn into a massive sail.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a similar setup to mine: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EV7ie.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:33:04.610" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T01:21:50.783" Title="Is it safe to overload the roof rails?" Tags="|safety|opel|weight|agila|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18207" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:00:57.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:00:57.963" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:00:57.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18208" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:00:57.963" Score="0" Body="Anything ranging from the weight of the vehicle to the towing weight" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T03:23:51.753" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T03:23:51.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:30:25.173" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would this be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: No.  It's hard to say exactly how unsafe or how bad the consequences might be.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the rails themselves weigh on the order of 5-10 kg, you're talking about almost doubling the advised load on the whole system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From reading that advisory, it's hard to say exactly what failure modes their mechanical engineers are expecting.  For the sake of discussion, let's assume point loads as well as shearing and twisting forces (all of which seem reasonable given your &quot;two kayaks driving 80 mph&quot; scenario).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the rails themselves weigh on the order of 5-10 kg, you're talking about almost doubling the advised load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Point loads:&lt;/strong&gt; I can think of several point loads that this system is going to experience.  The mounts of the base rails (the rails running the length of the car) will be overloaded.  The connection points of the cross rails will also be overloaded.  The cross rails themselves will also be overloaded.  You should expect that the connections will all have some play after this trip.  The rails will also likely be slightly to significantly deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shearing:&lt;/strong&gt; Kayaks are always big sails, no matter what you cover.  Any cross breeze (which can be significant at these speeds) are going to act to try to pry the cross rails away from the base rails.  I'd also expect them to try to pry the base rails away from the vehicle.  As the connection points will now have some extra play, shearing will be that much more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twisting:&lt;/strong&gt; I'd expect this to be fairly dramatic.  Every time those big sails take even a slight angle to the wind, they'll be trying to twist themselves right off.  Again, this will be working all the connection points and torquing the rails in ways with greater mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will any of this lead to the rails ripping off the roof?  That's hard to say.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be surprised if the rails rattled quite a bit after this trip and were significantly bent.  At that point, the whole system is compromised and you can't confidently expect that it will safely hold &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; weight.  Anything like that would make me crazy since I'd know it was my fault for breaking my car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of all, if you consider all this and do it anyway and something does go wrong, it's on you.  The manufacturer has made it clear that you've gone well outside their engineering guidance.  If it fails, they told you so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: this is not what I'm a doctor of.  However, I do work with mechanical engineers and their advisories of &quot;stay within these guidelines if you don't want to break anything&quot; are serious and well-grounded.  I tend to respect their expertise.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 31 July 2015:&lt;/strong&gt; Coincidentally, I saw a set-up very similar to the one pictured above yesterday.  It was at the top of one of our local bridges where the winds were modest (no whitecaps on the waves below) and the speeds were about 50 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the kayak and the vertical piece were lying in the middle of the road.  The crossbeams and the lengthwise rails were lying in the other lane.  This lead to much creative use of language as I tried to maneuver around the road debris while in rush-hour traffic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I stand by my original statement: it's not safe.  I have a little more knowledge about the failure modes, though: they're incredibly annoying with a distinct tinge of &quot;very dangerous.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T01:58:56.140" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T01:58:56.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T23:26:43.473" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have replaced the MAP sensor, the throttle position sensor and the fuel pump. None of these things made any difference. Also the problem is worse in warmer weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11162" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T23:59:13.753" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T23:59:13.753" Title="2003 Chevy Cavalier (manual trani) stalls when coming to a stop after the car warms up" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|stall|cavalier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T23:43:12.243" Score="4" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a MT Scion TC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key detail on the heavy acceleration out of sharp turn is this usually only happens when I've been engine braking into the turn, and not every time. I'm not certain on the rougher/throatier idle (might just be that I have windows down now), but I do think it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFR is fine and so far I'm not throwing any codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet done any engine valve clearance. There is no actual shimming on this engine, just swapping out lifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could this be? Timing chain? I do drive this car very hard. 130k miles. What kind of shop should I consider taking it to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can inspect muffler, but don't think I'm going to find any holes. On second though, perhaps one of the connections is a bit loose? Eh, the growl goes away soon as I let off on the throttle, and doesn't return, even if I step on it again immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: on second thought, I think I have only heard it while accelerating after turning sharply to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5143" LastEditorUserId="5143" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T17:28:07.933" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T17:28:07.933" Title="2008 2AZ-FE rougher, throatier idle; and growl on heavy accel out of sharp turn" Tags="|rough-idle|scion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2015-07-06T01:29:35.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of weight, the advisory height limit of 50 cm will likely be violated if the plan is to carry the two kayaks on their sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise against doing so for this reason alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T10:35:49.050" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T10:35:49.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18326" CreationDate="2015-07-06T02:40:10.247" Score="5" ViewCount="16967" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer - 4.3 L Vortec V6 (vin W with PCM)&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the distributor style with vertical cap posts.  230,000 miles original owner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:  Please click on &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B0010DN0QW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link below&lt;/a&gt; to see a photo of distributor.  It is the &quot;DI&quot; style, not &quot;HEI&quot;, &quot;HE&quot; or &quot;HVS&quot;.  There are no mechanical counter-weights inside this unit.  AFAIK, all timing is advanced by computer control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into the detailed recent history, I believe I've checked, replaced, and eliminated every other source or possible cause of my rough idle condition.  I narrowed it down to the distributor based on a lot of up/down play in the original, and I assumed gear wear, which gave me what seemed like a huge amount of rotational play (~ 3 to 6 degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I replaced my original distributor with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B0010DN0QW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cardone Select&lt;/strong&gt; part #84-1635&lt;/a&gt;.  Not a rebuild, but supposedly &quot;brand new&quot;.  The truck definitely runs a lot better, but still not as smooth as I expected considering how many things were checked and fixed.  (Yes, it's been timed to the factory spec of 0 TDC at idle (~650 RPM) with the computer timing wire unplugged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the computer timing wire was disconnected, I did not expect to see any advance on acceleration from idle, yet my timing light shows a timing advance.  How can the timing advance by itself when the computer timing wire is unplugged?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the computer timing wire plugged in, the timing mark seems to jump around.  Is this normal?  I was expecting the computer to advance/retard timing smoothly with engine acceleration, not jump back &amp;amp; forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do these two observations indicate excessive distributor slop?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Up/down shaft play on the original distributor is measured at 0.032&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; and not a huge amount of gear wear. For the number of miles and reading about how these gears wear out, I was expecting a lot worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Up/down shaft play on the new distributor is 0.021&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;lt;- this still seems like a lot to me, but I'm not sure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there was not nearly as much gear wear as I was expecting to see, I'm doubting and second-guessing this new distributor or that I've done everything possible short of an engine rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the amount of up/down shaft play supposed to be?  Is there an acceptable range?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a tremendous amount of slop in the engine block hole where the distributor is inserted. The hold-down clamp is firmly holding the distributor in place, but when this clamp is loosened, the entire distributor moves side to side. Don't get me wrong, there is zero side-to-side in the shaft itself. I'm just talking about the entire distributor assembly moving side to side and back &amp;amp; forth in the hole after the gear is meshed and fully seated. Is this normal?  I was expecting the ring under the collar to fit snugly in the hole on the top of the engine block.  I should have tried fitting the original one back in just to answer my own question; and now I regret that I did not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;With the clamp loosened and the collar seated down firmly on its gasket, mine is very sloppy all around (+/- 1/8&quot;).  In other words, the hole is way oversized... is it supposed to be like this or is there something wrong with this new distributor?  I assumed the distributor assembly supposed to fit snugly into the top engine block hole.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: This third question was resolved by simply inspecting the original gasket.  There is a circular indentation in the original gasket that is offset about 1/16&quot; from the center point.  In other words, the original distributor was also not self-centering in the engine block hole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While at Auto Zone today, I asked to see the Duralast distributor.  It's new (not rebuilt) and I believe made by Spectra since it used the same photo and part number.  I did a really quick check on the up/down play and it was more than 0.030&quot;.  That's about the same as mine with 230,000 miles.  Either it does not matter and they all have a lot of slop, or these imported replacements are not up to spec.  This is what my question here is mostly about... the correct GM specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining roughness in the idle was finally tracked down to a loose heat shield that was intermittently shorting out the spark plug boot for cylinder #4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 4&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't long after my last edit that the overall roughness came back with a vengeance.  White exhaust smelled of gas and I was completely out of ideas... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18806/11163&quot;&gt;See &quot;Edit #3&quot; on my other question&lt;/a&gt; for the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T00:10:39.150" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T00:10:39.150" Title="What is an acceptable amount of up/down play in a distributor shaft?" Tags="|chevrolet|ignition|rough-idle|blazer|s10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2015-07-06T03:56:41.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the easiest thing to do is to raise the needle a notch (or more) if it is too lean. Just don't loose the tiny &quot;E&quot; clip that locates the needle in the throttle slide. Sometimes they spring over a little so be ready for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some carburetors do not have adjustable needles.  You can enrichen them with a little washer under the E clip. I have used pop rivet washers for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11164" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T03:56:41.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18222" CreationDate="2015-07-06T04:46:00.767" Score="4" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying a 2014 Ninja 1000 with 1,400 miles on it. I asked the guy about the maintenance he's performed and he said he hasn't done anything to it so far. I know you should change the oil after a few hundred miles, but he hasn't done it yet and said that he always waits to change the oil after 3,000 miles on the bikes he buys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about buying this bike based on that? Is that enough of a maintenance mistake that I should pass on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11165" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:30:08.677" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:30:08.677" Title="Should I worry about buying this bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|buying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2015-07-06T08:33:54.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As brake pads wear, the piston is pushed further and further out of the caliper.  Around the edge of the piston is a rubber boot but this sits flush with the caliper so as the piston rests further and further away from this, it can corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When fitting new pads, the piston must be pushed back into the caliper and the exposed areas can be awkward to get back in cleanly which can cause them to sit proud and thus push on the pad and cause the brake to drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to pay main dealer prices for a replacement caliper assembly, consider taking the car or just the caliper to a company which reconditions brake calipers.  They will replace all the seals plus reface any corroded components (or replace them) so you effectively get an as-new caliper.  Some of these places will hold a small stock and even provide calipers on an exchange basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very surprised if a faulty ABS module would cause just one of the brakes to drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:33:54.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18205" CreationDate="2015-07-06T08:37:34.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to say anything about the dealership you mention that a quick Google of review sites for them wouldn't reveal anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, knocking is an early sign of the dual-mass clutch-flywheel assembly beginning to wear out.  How long you will have between audible knocking and replacement is hard to predict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure or unhappy about your main dealers assertion that the noise is acceptable, take the vehicle elsewhere for an independent assessment.  Presumably the dealership that's assessed it provided you with the car in the first place so would have to shoulder the cost of replacement.  Try another Ford dealership or service centre and see what their opinion of the noise is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:37:34.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18199" CreationDate="2015-07-06T08:41:17.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It also depends on if your car is set for long life service intervals or not.  I've got the Bora 1.9 TDI PD130 (2004 model year) and it seems to need oil changes every 20k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the oil level regularly is very important as low oil on these engines will cause untold damage.  Also, if you change the oil more frequently than required then this is going to help, not hurt your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:41:17.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18201" CreationDate="2015-07-06T10:43:05.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paul says, this is highly subjective - the only concrete answer is &quot;pull it on enough to hold the car&quot;. The very fact you're asking this suggests to me that it almost certainly needs adjusting....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should adjust the handbrake (or have it adjusted) so that it is fully engaged (i.e. you can't turn the rear wheels by hand, with them jacked up off the ground) at about 1/2 to 3/4 of the full travel. If it's been adjusted as far as it will go and it's still too loose, you'll need to have the cables and/or the rear shoes replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also always recommend parking with the car in gear (or P, if it's automatic) - use first if you're pointing uphill, reverse if you're pointing down, and turn the steering wheel so that the downhill side of the front wheels points towards the kerb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T10:43:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18215" CreationDate="2015-07-06T11:07:19.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with the basic tenants of what @Anarach has said in the comment, there is one possible blaring issue with the motorcycle, that being: &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;was it broke in properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not talking about, what do people on the forums say, I'm talking about &lt;em&gt;how Kawasaki says it should be broken in&lt;/em&gt;. In the owners manual (which you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManuals/Manual/ZX1000MEF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download here&lt;/a&gt;), it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first 1600 KM (1000 mile) that the motorcycle is ridden is designated as the break-in period. If the motorcycle is not used carefully during this period, you may very well end up with a &amp;quot;broken down&amp;quot; instead of a &amp;quot;broken in&amp;quot; motorcycle after a few thousand kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following rules should be observed during the break-in period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The following is the maximum recommended engine speed during the break-in period:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Distance traveled             Max engine speed&#xA;0~800 km (0~500 mile)         4000 rpm&#xA;800~1600 km (500~1000 mile)   6000 rpm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every person who is trying to sell a motorcycle will tell you, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Oh, I followed those rules exactly.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; ... but how do you know for sure? There is no way to measure anything. There is no way to verify. More than likely, they have followed the rules, but you just don't know for sure. This would leave a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; gap in my mind telling me to walk away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The break-in is a very important procedure. Without following it to the letter, any warranty which exists with Kawasaki will be null and void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T11:07:19.787" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18227" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:15:29.397" Score="-2" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're driving for around 4 hours continuously which types of car would stand out in comfort? For example sedan or suv, or any other type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definition of Comfort:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of getting in and out of vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to see all around the vehicle without much movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat provides good support for your back, or adjustable to individuals profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoothness of the drive. Eg driving on the bumps on the road would be felt the least.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list can go on. In general, is there any benefits that the height (size) of the vehicle can have in reducing vibration, hence, improving the comfort? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10657" LastEditorUserId="10657" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T13:36:55.377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:53:34.663" Title="Which cars are more comfortable?" Tags="|noise|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-06T16:38:27.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18153" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:15:37.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than the fuel pump relay/fuse, you could pull the starter relay/fuse.  If the starter can't turn, the thief isn't going to kill your battery by cranking the starter until it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could install a hidden button and connect it to the starter wire (between the ignition and the relay), so you need to press the button and turn the key to start the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:15:37.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18213" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:48:15.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;EDIT NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I made a bad assumption about the HEI distributor, so deleted all of that nonsense. Please do the following to see if it is an issue, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the distributor cap off so you can observe the rotor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a socket on the crank shaft snout bolt (where the main crank pulley is at)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the crank clockwise until you see the distributor move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the crank counter-clockwise until you see it move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many degrees of crank shaft turn has occurred between the two movements? It should be zero (it should start moving right away as you turn it CCW). If there is any turn in there, &lt;strong&gt;your timing chain is worn out and is probably causing not only ignition timing issues, but also valve event timing issues&lt;/strong&gt;. At 230k miles, it is not unheard of for the timing chain to be worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T00:26:17.400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T00:26:17.400" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18223" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:51:26.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are considering buying a car and comfort is a requirement, look for cars which offer a height adjustable steering wheel, adjustable lumbar support in the seat and height adjustment on the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, avoid the &quot;sport&quot; models as these are typically more firmly sprung so you will feel bumps in the road more severely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, test drive any prospective purchase as you won't get an indication of how comfortable they are for you personally unless you physically try them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards height of a car, I find that there is an optimum height.  Provided that you have enough headroom, they're comfortable.  For example, my old Porsche was a very low slung sports car but had sufficient height for me so was effectively comfortable.  The low height of the car also made it less susceptible to strong cross-winds so was less stressful than a high sided, high ride-height vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:51:26.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18223" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:53:34.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by your definition of comfort, I would suggest an SUV over a sedan. SUV's are more family oriented and are largely marketed either to women doing the school run, or guys doing off-road stuff. Both of those things require comfortable seating and driving dynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Less noise.&lt;/strong&gt; SUV's have quieter exhausts as a general rule. They also have higher-profile tyres, which makes for quieter driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ease of getting in and out of vehicle&lt;/strong&gt; SUV's don't require you to climb down into your seat. Some may be a bit high, but usually they allow you to &quot;step in&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy to see all around the vehicle without much movement&lt;/strong&gt; The elevated seating position and big(ger) windows allow you to see everything very easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat provides good support for your back, or adjustable to individuals profile.&lt;/strong&gt; Largely dependent on the brand and model, but SUV's are aimed at people taking long trips, so the seats would be more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothness of the drive. Eg driving on the bumps on the road would be felt the least.&lt;/strong&gt; Taller tires and softer suspension in an SUV means more smoothness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these things mean that other types of cars don't also provide high levels of comfort (or even higher levels of comfort), but SUV's are normally much more comfortable than equivalent sedans or hatchbacks. E.g. as always, let's take my Subaru Forester. It's built on the Impreza platform, and has the same engine and drivetrain, but it rides MUCH smoother. They're practically the same car, only difference is one is higher, has taller tires and has a slighlty softer suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:53:34.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:56:31.407" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trunk release, power locks, key fob, radio, interior lights, power mirrors, and the horn (horn only works when car is running) all don't work but my power windows still work great. What could be the problem? I checked my fuses and they seem fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11170" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T14:43:47.017" Title="Electronics not working after trying to replace stereo" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T17:11:39.493" Score="4" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 02 Excursion Limited Diesel and cannot get the speedometer calibrated. I purchased the vehicle with 35&quot; tires (original equipment is 32&quot;) The tires were about 75% worn and the speedometer was off by a consistent 5% at any speed (reading fast). Recently I switched to 33&quot; tires. Now of course the speedometer is now off by about 15%. I have a scanner (AutoEnginuity) which allows me to go into the ABS system and change the tire size. I can hear it setting and my settings are saved from previous session. But no matter what I set it to, the speedometer doesn't seem to change. I tried going all the way down to 31&quot; tire size and it maybe changes so it's reading about 80mph at 70mph GPS (2mph difference). Or, maybe it was my imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke with the stealership, and they basically said they have no idea what would cause the PCM to not affect the gauge. They perform the same process when they reset it. It also may be worth noting, I have Hydra 16 position tuner installed with custom tuning. However, I don't believe that tuner touches tire size. I can confirm that with my tuning tech. But, I believe he just uses the size which is inputted into the PCM and adjusts shift points accordingly. Or, maybe I should attempt to do this with the chip unplugged regardless? The chip is the only thing I can think of that could interfere aside from some sort of inline correcting module like a TrueSpeed device. I took the dash off looking for said device. I checked around the battery on the driver’s side, around the firewall and around the wheel well for an aftermarket device. Couldn’t find anything. Is there anywhere else I should check? Any other reason I cannot seem to calibrate the speedometer like normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastEditorUserId="10053" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T19:18:09.567" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:18:09.567" Title="Excursion SuperDuty Cannot Calibrate Speedometer" Tags="|ford|diesel|speedometer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18233" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:05:35.577" Score="5" ViewCount="42367" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I clean my cylinder head and engine block contact surfaces before a head gasket change?  There is residue paint from the old gasket on both the head and block side.  Should I do it carefully with a razor blade or sand paper or perhaps use something non-abrasive like microfiber cloth with Brakleen?  I believe both the heads and the block are made of aluminum but the cylinder jackets are stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcAjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T18:34:28.710" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T13:46:11.317" Title="How to clean cylinder head and engine block contact surface before gasket change?" Tags="|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:11:38.557" Score="2" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to change my transmission oil (2008 Nissan Sentra CVT). It has a 7 liter total capacity, but due to the torque converter, I can only drain 4 liters at a time. Thus, I have to make several &lt;strong&gt;partial changes&lt;/strong&gt;. The question is: How many partial changes do I have to do in order to have a clean transmission fluid (5% [or less] old oil)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:47:59.287" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T22:47:59.287" Title="How Many Partial Oil Transmission Fluid Changes Until Clean" Tags="|transmission|oil-change|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18231" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:34:31.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't sand the block at all unless there is existing damage of some kind - but it really doesn't take much to damage, even a fine scratch can ruin the seal for the gasket. If you have to sand it, you will have to finish it to quite a fine grade and be very careful about keeping the surface relatively even/level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very careful, you can use a razor blade to scrape the old residue off the block - just remember that if you scratch it at all, you'll have to repair the damage (by sanding and resurfacing the affected area of the block). Many people use plastic tools (any kind of hard-edged plastic scraper) to avoid the possibility of scratching the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical gasket remover compounds are also available, which smell like death, eat disposable gloves, and burn your skin, but will chemically eat away any gasket residue. I don't have any personal experience with them, but for $10 or so for a tube it may be worth a try. If you don't need something as heavy-duty as gasket remover, you can try a solvent like varsol/paint thinner to help loosen the remnants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T18:16:27.180" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T18:16:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18234" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:36:36.163" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T18:36:36.163" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T18:36:36.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18235" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:36:36.163" Score="0" Body="The process of bringing a long-neglected vehicle back to top condition and running order" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T19:01:21.230" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:01:21.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:03:02.653" Score="1" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trailer with a rubber-torsion axle (axle is fixed to chassis, hubs are mounted to swing arms that are embedded in the ends of the rubber-filled tube axle).  Since the swing arms move only in the vertical plane, and cannot move side-to-side, I assume I can fit wheels/tires that have minimal clearance from the trailer chassis. What is a reasonable minimum clearance between the inner side of the wheel/tire assembly and the nearest part of the trailer chassis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trailer Guy" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T00:19:15.260" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T00:19:15.260" Title="Wheel and tire clearance to trailer chassis" Tags="|tires|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18250" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:02:56.640" Score="4" ViewCount="2483" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I have my cylinder heads out of my V6 Tacoma, I am considering taking the valves out to inspect them in case they are bent or whatever and grind them.  There is no symptoms of valves malfunctioning.  They are sealed closed fine.  I was just wondering if I should do it since now I have easy access to it?  E.g. if I took them out and cleaned them and the housing, will it enhance the engine performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  What caused me to consider this are the carbon-gunky final segments of the intake passages inside the cylinder head that leads to the valves (what is the proper term for that?) and by looking inside, I could see that the same gunk was collected on the inside of the valve (wide end that actually closes the opening).  I cleaned those with a toothbrush sized wire brush and Seafoam.  Here is what they looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ij2gz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dirty&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WXHzV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:47:02.253" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T02:28:26.537" Title="Should I lap my valves if I have easy access?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18193" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:22:26.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rings generally wear at the same rate meaning that when it's time to replace one you should be replacing them all as they're not seating with the cylinder properly any more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burning oil does not always imply a loss of compression.  Cars with good rings will burn oil due to bad valve guides or bad valve guide seals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compression test should help you isolate this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:22:26.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18249" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:40:50.757" Score="3" ViewCount="7742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Nissan Almera which occasionally grinds / doesn't engage when I try and put it into fifth gear.  Not often, but maybe once or twice a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the problem is operator related, or a potentially clutch problem since it only happens occasionally and only when going into fifth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do manual clutches need oil and filter changes occasionally like automatics?  Would you ever use something like Lucas Transmission Fix or a similar type product on a manual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 12/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't dealt with this issue yet, but I was talking to someone about changing the gear oil since I'm going to replace the cv boots.  The Hayens manual says my tranny takes &lt;code&gt;Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 80W to API GL4&lt;/code&gt;.  This person recommended that I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000CQ6L9G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valvoline 75w-90 Limited Slip&lt;/a&gt; to help with the problem I'm having shifting into fifth gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower_gear.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product information sheet on Valvolines website&lt;/a&gt; it meets GL4,GL5 and MT1 ( whatever those are ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this &amp;quot;limited slip&amp;quot; thing they are talking about and might it help my problem, as opposed to refilling with some cheaper oil like regular 75w-90 or 80w?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got some interesting responses to this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3976572/gonew/1/Changing_Manual_Tranny_Oil_to_#UNREAD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BobIsTheOilGuy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what the Bob's guys are saying and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000CPCBEQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon reviews&lt;/a&gt; it looks like I'm going to try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crap, the Red Line site says &lt;code&gt;MTL, MT-85 &amp;amp; MT-90 are not for use in differentials with hypoid gears&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gotta check the workshop manual to see if what's said in the Haynes is correct...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT March 15, 2021&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fifth gear eventually got to the point where I could only engage it if I was going downhill at a particular speed - then eventually it would go into gear then pop out of gear as soon as I gave it any gas...  But hey - gears 1-4 still work great and the engine is still like new! :-)  Also, changed the gear oil a few years back and put 10-w40 engine oil in it I think...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2021-03-15T10:02:05.267" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T10:02:05.267" Title="Manual Transmission Grinding Occasionally Shifting Into Fifth" Tags="|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|almera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18239" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:52:10.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem with my Tacoma when shifting from the 2nd into the 3rd.  The reason in my, and more than likely your case as well are bad &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/manual-transmission-synchronizers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;syncro rings&lt;/a&gt; and the only fix pretty much is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1675/2618&quot;&gt;take the gearbox out and either replace the whole thing or rebuild the syncros&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T20:08:30.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18231" CreationDate="2015-07-06T19:55:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Jafro's &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/3C_y_kkPSBo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; on his YouTube channel in which he shows how to scrape off the gunk accumulated on his head gasket prior to inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He uses a long-handle scraper tool with razor blades to clean off the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake cleaner will be wasted if you try to remove burnt-on gasket material with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:55:15.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:05:41.213" Score="2" ViewCount="4478" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you are thinking of getting a car cheap due to it having a spotty automatic transmission.  How difficult / expensive would it typically be to get a low mileage second hand transmission from a wreak and have it swapped it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a 99 Mazda 626?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T20:13:00.843" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:48:56.307" Title="How Difficult / Expensive is it to Swap An Automatic Transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18242" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:16:24.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about just replacing with a remanufactured or brand new tranny, that in itself is not too difficult, provided you have proper jacking equipment.  Preferred would be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00028FB6S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special tranny jack&lt;/a&gt; but I have heard of people using a regular trolley jack with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00080QGYG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tranny adapter&lt;/a&gt;.  In either case, the critical component is a 4-pointed fork on which you rest the heavy gearbox, which a regular jack doesn't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have taken the old gearbox out, you can either take it to a tranny shop to have them rebuild it or try to rebuild it yourself, which of course adds significant complexity.  I have heard that shops charge a lot of money to just take it down and reinstall it so you may want to perform just that part and have a professional do the tedious work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T14:48:56.307" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:48:56.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18251" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:17:24.900" Score="9" ViewCount="2467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding a transmission is one of the most expensive things that can be done on a car and I've been told it's one of the main reasons people dump cars other than timing belt issues.  I've read conflicting reports of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://transmissionrepairguy.com/signs-of-automatic-transmission-problems/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when a transmission is going bad&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and was wondering what one should look for / avoid when buying a high milage car with an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in two cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No vehicle history&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An intentional attempt to hide the problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T11:26:53.753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T11:26:53.753" Title="How to Detect a Bad Transmission When Buying a High Mileage Vehicle" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="59728" CreationDate="2015-07-06T20:41:49.240" Score="3" ViewCount="13235" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 S-10 Blazer 4.3L Vortec V6 (vin W) with Powertrain Control Module (PCM)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1995 was the OBD transitional year for GM.  The PCM itself is OBDI, but the interface connector has the 16-pin D-style OBDII plug.  Therefore, most inexpensive OBDII scan tools cannot establish a connection to this vehicle's computer although it plugs in.  Some OBDI scan tools will also not work with this vehicle since the interface connector is not OBDII style.  For example, the Craftsman model 20899 is for OBDI and OBDII but specifically excludes all 1995 S/T series vehicles even though the connector is compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can easily extract the codes via a jumper and reading the MIL light flashes.  However, I'd really like to get a tool for live scanning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a comprehensive list of live scan tool brands/models that will work with my car?  Some need a special interface cable accessory that's not included, so this information is also requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T01:39:17.473" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T23:46:03.163" Title="Live scan tool for OBD 1.5 GM transitional?" Tags="|obd-ii|gm|electronic-control-module|obd-i|s10|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18237" CreationDate="2015-07-06T21:17:17.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will cleaning the valves improve performance? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you feel the difference? It really depends on the present state of the valves but the answer is probably &quot;no&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth going them while one's in there? That really depends on the end objective and the availability of resources like time and tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to give an idea of the worth involved, here is a Jafro video which shows &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/6dfzeMgrHqA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to remove the valves and valve springs&lt;/a&gt; from a 4G63 cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another one detailing how he &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/7GEmuQa3dPY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cleans the valves and seats&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T21:17:17.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18232" CreationDate="2015-07-06T21:27:47.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this is a simple as # number fluid changes to get to x dilution factor.  If so M1V1 = M2V2 is what you would be looking for which looks to be around 140L worth of oil changes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that this transmission is expecting an actual flush procedure where either the transmission pump is forcing the old fluid out or there's a flushing machine pumping the fluid out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This forum post describes a DIY procedure that seems to somewhat mimic the dealer process.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://my6thgen.org/f107/how-change-your-cvt-transmission-fluid-flush-2822/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://my6thgen.org/f107/how-change-your-cvt-transmission-fluid-flush-2822/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's true that it takes about 7 seconds to pump 1L of oil out while idling then I would suggest doing it in one shot instead of the start/stop procedure.  Do your drain and fill, then unhook the return line.  Have your 6L of &quot;flush&quot; ready, start the car and add them while it's dumping out (in to a catch can of course).  This should pump the dirty fluid out of the converter while preventing the pump/transmission from going dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T21:27:47.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18239" CreationDate="2015-07-06T23:38:48.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of three scenarios which may be causing your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As @amphibient stated, the synchro may be going bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This could also be due to poor shifting technique. If you don't press the clutch down all the way, you may find yourself grinding gears. If you release the clutch too soon during the shift, you are going to see the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a weak master/slave or have air in the clutch lines (assuming this is has a hydraulic system on it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fourth, less likely scenario, but would be easily discounted. I had an issue with my fire wall getting a stress fracture in it. It started splitting where the clutch master cylinder was mounted at. It would flex outward as I pressed on the clutch. This would not allow the clutch to disengage fully and I would have to slam gears into place to get it to shift. This was the last thing I thought of would have been the problem, but once I put some backing on it, it shifted smooth as silk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable assumption would put it in the synchro ball park. I think the other problem areas would see you have problems in &lt;em&gt;all of the gears&lt;/em&gt; and not just the one shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T23:38:48.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18237" CreationDate="2015-07-06T23:46:51.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an old adage which say something to the effect of, &quot;&lt;em&gt;If it ain't broke, don't fix it.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; If the valves are sealing fine and look relatively clean, there is no real reason to go through the hassle of doing a valve job. By doing the valve job or even just cleaning them up and lapping them, you may cause more damage than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, however, a good time to replace the valve seals. If you go ahead and do this, you'll want to check your valves to ensure there isn't a lot of side play in the valves. Realistically, if you can move them side to side, it's probably time to get the valve guides done. If you have to do that, you'll need the valves lapped to get them resealed. You would not be able to do the valve guides at home. In most cases this &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; should be done by a machine shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T13:06:41.590" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T13:06:41.590" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18244" CreationDate="2015-07-07T00:02:05.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obvious things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty/burnt transmission fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slippage when driving (can be hard to detect in an automatic, unless it's very pronounced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Very clean&lt;/em&gt; transmission fluid (re: are they trying to hide something)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to see if pan/pan gasket looks new (re: are they trying to hide something). If no real pan gasket and has a drain plug, does this area look cleaner than the rest of the engine area? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While at a stand still and foot firmly on the brake, run the transmission (slowly) between reverse, neutral, and drive several times ... does it seem to shift easily (not by the gear shift, but by feeling what's going on)? Does it seem to be solid when it goes into gear? If it feels like it just sloppily goes into gear (long duration to get into gear), there may be an issue. This is a listen and feel procedure ... what are your senses telling you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the tranny fluid just needs to be changed. Just because the fluid is very clean doesn't mean there's an issue, it's just something to be wary of is all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T00:02:05.063" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:13:30.170" Score="2" ViewCount="3773" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does stalling an engine count as lugging it? I know lugging is not good for the engine for various reasons. Does stalling do those to the engine as well?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11179" LastEditorUserId="7354" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T15:01:00.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T00:10:07.077" Title="Lugging vs stalling an engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18245" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:15:25.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, if you had OBD 1.5, you wouldn't be able to use the jumper method. I could be wrong, but my '94 Bonneville will not work with it. Does it have a 12-pin or 16-pin OBD port? If it's a 16 and you can pull codes via a jumper, you probably do have OBD 1.5 (GM is a pain isn't it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys at Pontiac Bonneville Club claim an Action CP9110 will work, but its difficult to get a hold of one as they're no longer being made. This link does reference a method to make a CP9115 cable which I'm assuming is also difficult to find, but helpful should you find the tool: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/1992/topic199.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/1992/topic199.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find one (or afford one for that matter) you may have luck with a Tech 1 or Tech 2, GMs proprietary automotive tech tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequent the Bonneville site and am currently working with a gentleman on getting my hands on a Bonneville datastream file (.DS) and editing necessary aspects so as to fit my car and then using a 16-pin OBD to USB cable (purchased on reddevilriver.com, a site I do not own) along with EFILive v4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T01:15:25.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:25:42.793" Score="4" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace a faulty ECM in a 2006 Chevy Aveo, and I ordered the part pre-programmed (based on my VIN and possibly some other info). I've installed the part and have began the security relearn process, but no security light turns on. The parking brake light, check engine light, battery light, and seatbelt lights turn on, but no others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process I've started for the relearn starts with turning the key to attempt to start the car, then turning back to ON until the security light turns off (which should take about 10 minutes). The car has a red dot for a security light, but it does not turn on with this procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11178" LastEditorUserId="11178" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T02:05:34.403" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T02:05:34.403" Title="Security Relearn for 2006 Chevy Aveo" Tags="|chevrolet|aveo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18252" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:52:18.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running at low revs &quot;lugging&quot; is not really damaging provided you have appropriate oil pressure, but I'd question the mileage gained by it, modern ECU's will provide appropriate fuel and may run richer trying to raise these speed when you're trying to accelerate from an already high gear.  Modern engines are far more tolerant than engines of decades past and are not likely to suffer any internal damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real concern I would have would be additional wear and tear on items such as engine mounts, transmission mounts and your clutch if you're driving a manual car if you are unable to keep the car from bucking at such a low rev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stalling isn't really as bad as people would have you believe IMO, more of an inconvenience or embarrassment.  Teaching many people to drive manual transmissions over the years I've never had a stall induced breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="673" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T01:52:18.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3088" CreationDate="2015-07-07T02:38:38.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery has been dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car self has click sound or tick tick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jump start works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push starts works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs good or cleaned gap is good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition coil is good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator is good as engine is not going to stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights/fan is ok with alternator current generation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery has been dead if is needs frequent jumps and push with in a day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life time is two years if you have record or written on your battery the purchase date/last changed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voltage is less than 12.4 (dead battery has 6.0 some time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11182" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T09:56:30.063" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T09:56:30.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:02:12.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Eco assist is not a placebo and it says nothing vague. It teaches you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;is a fuel efficiency INFORMATION system designed to HELP (teach) you DEVELOP (learn) and MAINTAIN ( continue to use what you learned ) a fuel-efficient driving style. The system MONITORS (gathers data) driving style, and can DISPLAY (shows you the data on the dashboard) the impact of your driving style on the vehicle’s fuel efficiency. This feedback can help YOU make adjustments to take full advantage of the fuel efficiency potential of the Civic.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives you information to help teach you to develop and learn and maintain (which means to continue to drive the efficient way that you just learned) a fuel-efficient driving style . It does that by monitoring your driving style and it displays that information on the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T09:57:24.640" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T09:57:24.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18252" CreationDate="2015-07-07T10:10:42.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of stalling an engine as &lt;em&gt;lugging it once&lt;/em&gt;. While not good for your engine/car, it won't do the same damage which is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; with lugging your engine. Stalling the engine is basically the engine not having the torque to overcome the demand which has been put on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as lugging damage, check &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9388/4152&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. Lugging an engine can cause &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T10:10:42.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18265" CreationDate="2015-07-07T12:59:29.217" Score="3" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was learning to drive, I took my lessons in a manual car. On one of the lessons I was performing a reversing maneuver and I controlled the car on both the clutch and the brake pedal... which I now understand was stupid...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructor explained to me that controlling the car with the clutch and brake pedals at the same time is bad because it can burn out your clutch assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I drive an automatic car (with triptronic gear shifters) and one thing I am wondering is: Will the clutch (or the equivalent of the clutch) burn out in an automatic car if I am shifting down a gear while braking? (Lets say I am coming up to the red traffic light). Or is the computer in the car, clever enough to know that it needs to do the equivalent of pushing the clutch pedal down if I am braking and shifting down a gear at the same time??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my question makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time, Dan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T23:08:38.420" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:28:38.473" Title="Safe engine braking in automatic cars" Tags="|clutch|automatic-transmission|car|gears|braking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18259" CreationDate="2015-07-07T13:29:13.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very much depends on the type of car you have but most paddle shift cars employ an automatic gearbox so are effectively clutchless (relying instead on a torque converter).  Some systems employ a robotically operated manual gearbox with clutch (or two clutches on systems such as Volkswagens' DSG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the situation you are talking about; slowing down whilst braking and downshifting, is very different to riding the clutch as the downshifts will be completed so the higher gear is disengaged and the lower gear engaged.  This is a legitimate driving technique in either an auto or manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system in your car will have built in safety features so that if you ask for an inappropriate gear, the computer should prevent that gear from being selected at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T13:29:13.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:31:58.333" Score="3" ViewCount="3858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've googled all over the internet and believe it or not I can't find any answers to this question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does my car lose traction for a second when I drive over painted road lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a perfect picture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTVzB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive over hose solid white lines (yes I understand you're not supposed to switch lanes when the line is solid) while driving around 40-50 MPH, my car wants to do that &quot;scooby-doo&quot; move like it's going to fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why, though? It happens ON DRY ROADS. I can understand if it was wet, but when everything is completely dry, I don't think painted road lines should be a hazard. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T19:22:55.507" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T00:08:47.050" Title="Car slides on painted lines" Tags="|tires|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18261" CreationDate="2015-07-07T16:00:45.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tyres are probably way too hard. Either because their &quot;energy savers&quot; or because they're very old and are starting to perish (your first clue is tiny cracks in the side wall and/or little shiny spots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T16:00:45.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18268" CreationDate="2015-07-07T16:43:48.273" Score="5" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to understand why, apart from viscosity, it's so easy to substitute lipids (i.e. SVO, WVO) for diesel fuel.  I'd have to assume these fuels have inherently different octane ratings and thus require different heat and pressure values to combust. How is interchangeability not an issue when every fuel is expected to ignite at exactly the pressure the chamber reaches right before TDC and not any degree before or after?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11187" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T20:20:38.677" Title="Octane rating of fats and oils versus diesel fuel" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9946" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:43:56.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I certainly wouldn't rule out is the &lt;strong&gt;SCPI Fuel Injector Assembly&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if or when this was last replaced? Getting to 216,000 on the original injector spider would make me very suspicious it (or one of the individual injectors) is the culprit. A clogged or faulty injector could also explain random misfires, and running too lean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These engines are notorious for these spider injectors going out, so it may be worth looking into. My 95 Blazer was experiencing a few of the symptoms you've listed around 190,000 and a new fuel injector spider was the fix for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your Blazer is a '97, you'll find a newer injector in your engine than the one in mine. You engine will have the Sequential Central Port Injector (SCPI) and each of the six fuel nozzles will have an individual injector on it. I've seen people online replace these individual injectors to get their assembly running properly without buy an entire new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your engine, I also believe that it is possible to directly swap in the newer Multi Port Fuel Injection assembly (MFPI) from the 2003+ Blazers. These are more sophisticated, and more reliable. May be worth a shot, probably not the cheapest option however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to the fuel injector is easy and can be done without a mechanic, if you're handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastEditorUserId="11188" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T17:05:53.613" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T17:05:53.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18259" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:46:30.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your instructor properly objected because the clutch/engine and the brakes do opposite things: the former adds energy to the car (speeding it up) and the latter removes energy (slowing it down). If you use both at the same time, then you're just pumping energy from the engine into the brake pads, to no good end. If at the same time you're feathering the clutch then the clutch, too, can find itself dissipating an arbitrary amount of energy. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your automatic, the shifts take a specific amount of time; you can't &quot;ride&quot; an automatic torque converter unless you're on the gas. True, stepping on the gas while stepping on the brake is analogous to what your instructor didn't like, but that's not what you're describing. Just using engine braking to slow down the car while you also press on the brake won't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:46:30.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2015-07-07T20:51:33.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It possible that could be air still in the system.  In general if it's air you should be able to pump the pedal and have it come up and be firm and hold that level.  Air compresses while the brake fluid does not.  If you allowed the fluid level in the master cylinder to drop to the point it could draw air in you may have air trapped in the ABS unit.  Bleeding through the ABS can be a time consuming and tedious process without a scan tool that will cycle the ABS unit.  (or some aggressive braking to activate it if you can safely)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pump the pedal and it goes firm but slowly drops while you hold it you may have an additional leak somewhere or you could have a bad master cylinder.  During normal use brake fluid can become contaminated and the master cylinder wears internally but only for the length of your brake pedal travel.  If you used the pump the brakes method to bleed them your pedal travel is greater than normal (perhaps ever in the history of the car).  This will push the internal seals over new territory which may have some internal rust, a wear ridge, etc... causing the seals to tear.  Once this happens the break pedal will never hold firm again.  Pumping the pedal may help but under pressure it will have a slow drop.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T20:51:33.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18261" CreationDate="2015-07-07T21:28:49.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of factors that could contribute to this happening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improperly inflated tires&lt;/strong&gt; If your tires aren't inflated correctly for their size and the weight of your vehicle they may not have a proper contact patch with the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Very Soft (sport) tires&lt;/strong&gt;  Very soft tires are great for gripping a rough surface like concrete or asphalt.  They kind of mash in to all that roughness gaining extra contact area.  Paint tends to fill in that roughness and produce a nice smooth surface.  Those soft tires have nothing to mash with so all that softness makes them slightly &quot;greasy&quot; when on something smooth.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old Tires&lt;/strong&gt; Tires that are old you should see visible cracking around the rim, and deep cracks between the tread.  The rubber is worn out and as it's transitioning over the varying surface the different tread blocks are moving differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension/Bushings&lt;/strong&gt; The scoobydoo feeling may be bad suspension magnifying otherwise normal tires transition over varying mediums. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel Alignment&lt;/strong&gt; Improper alignment of the wheels may be a major contributor as well. If the toe setting is wrong off it's possible that as a wheel moves over the line it wants to &quot;dart&quot; slightly.  Improper camber may also be preventing the correct sized contact patch with the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle is not stock, bigger tires or rims, raised or lowered, then I would tend to lean toward alignment and suspension issues.  As altering those parts will change the alignment and the stock alignment numbers aren't always going to be correct to make your car drive correctly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T21:28:49.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18263" CreationDate="2015-07-07T21:51:01.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have a fundamental flaw in your thinking. The combustion event is controlled by when it is (direct) injected into the combustion chamber. This controls the timing of the event, not the cetane rating or any other factor of the fuel itself. There are other factors which control the burn rate, such as: shape of the piston; shape of the combustion chamber; amount of fuel injected; compression ratio; engine speed; (among others). This is the reason why the fuel can be interchanged without worrying about the fuel ignition point itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To answer some of your lingering questions in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If combustion is timed by point of injection then there must be sufficient pressure in the chamber at that moment. If that is the case wouldn't the pressure in the injectors have to be higher to get the fuel into the chamber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is much higher than the pressure in the chamber at the time of the event. Some injection systems do their thing at around 44,000 psi. There is a lot of pressure built during the compression phase of a diesel engine. This compression creates a lot of heat and pressure. There needs to be sufficient pressure in the injection system to overcome the cylinder pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why doesn't the fuel ignite in the higher pressure injection system?  Higher heat in the chamber maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there isn't any oxygen in the lines to promote combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about IDI's, do they operate in the same way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do not operate in the same way. They have what is called a pre-chamber where mixing of fuel and air occur. The fuel is injected into the pre-chamber at a much lower pressure. The combustion event is controlled completely by when the compression produces enough heat to ignite the fuel. Then the combusting fuel/air is thrown into a portion of the piston, where it ignite further and completes the burn process. The shape of the piston and pre-chamber are the parts which control the burn itself. If not for these, this engine wouldn't work efficiently enough to work as an engine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indirect_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; gives the pros/cons to IDI:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Smaller diesels can be produced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The injection pressure required is low, so the injector is cheaper to produce.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The injection direction is of less importance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Indirect injection is much simpler to design and manufacture; less injector development is required and the injection pressures are low (1500 psi/100 bar versus 5000 psi/345 bar and higher for direct injection)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The lower stresses that indirect injection imposes on internal components mean that it is possible to produce petrol and indirect injection diesel versions of the same basic engine. At best such types differ only in the cylinder head and the need to fit a distributor and spark plugs in the petrol version whilst fitting an injection pump and injectors to the diesel. Examples include the BMC A-Series and B-Series engines and the Land Rover 2.25/2.5-litre 4-cylinder types. Such designs allow petrol and diesel versions of the same vehicle to be built with minimal design changes between them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Higher engine speeds can be reached, since burning continues in the prechamber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Specific fuel consumption is higher than with direct injection because of heat loss due to large exposed areas and pressure loss due to air motion through the throats. This is somewhat offset due to indirect injection having a much higher compression ratio and typically having no emissions equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Glowplugs are needed for a cold engine start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Because the heat and pressure of combustion is applied to one specific point on the piston as it exits the precombustion chamber or swirl chamber, such engines are less suited to high specific power outputs (such as turbocharging or tuning) than direct injection diesels. The increased temperature and pressure on one part of the piston crown causes uneven expansion which can lead to cracking, distortion or other damage due to improper use; use of &quot;starting fluid&quot; (ether) is not recommended in glow plug, indirect injection systems, because explosive knock can occur, causing engine damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Some of the pro's for the Wiki article are fairly moot in this day/age and pertain mainly to why it was used in the past during the 70/80's. Compact direct injected diesel engines are quite commonplace now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T10:23:26.050" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T10:23:26.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18261" CreationDate="2015-07-07T23:07:42.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very simple answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friction co-efficient on the paint lines is lower than the pavement.  It's pretty common on almost any paint line in any state within the Union.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, some road racing governing bodies like the FIM and FIA force circuits to use a particular type of paint with grit in it that has a higher friction co-efficient than pavement for reasons of safety of the drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a state, do not recall, that has a similar requirement that there DOT has instituted for state highways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can find it, I will edit this and post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:07:42.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2015-07-08T06:19:06.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well if you know the oil is leaking from the bolt on the pan I'd say you obviously don't have a good seal.  I would re thread the hole and replace the washer and bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stripped the oil pan bolt on my Yamaha R6 a while back.  With a little bit of trial and error I discovered that it was a 14mm 1.25 thread so I picked up a 14mm 1.5 thread tap at Autozone, that minor difference allowed me to rethread the hole which I had completely stripped, and Igot a new bolt matching the 1.5 thread along with a new washer and it was good to go.  The tap costs about $10.  The bolt .. A couple bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know what the problem is but its leaking from the bolt I'd start with that and it'll probably solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it probably only leaks on the side is because when you've got it up on the center stand all the oil is pooling up in the back.  The bolt is on the side so it only makes since that it would leak when it's leaned to that side.. I would the surprised if your a little low on oil too which would only compound that effect because the pan is not full of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T06:19:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T09:10:48.627" Score="1" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that I'll soon be the owner of 4.0l turbo charged, 4wd 1994 jeep cherokee that's been sat in a garage, undriven for 3years. but i don't know what to start with during the reviving process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11194" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T10:31:33.593" Title="what happens to a car that hasn't been driven for 3years?" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-09T18:34:27.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18271" CreationDate="2015-07-08T09:38:12.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the fuel tank and fuel filter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a full oil change (engine, transmission, diffs). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the brake fluid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the plugs, plug leads and battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the wheel bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the condition of the timing belt, auxiliary belts and pulleys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you'll have to go by any weird symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T10:31:33.593" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T10:31:33.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18271" CreationDate="2015-07-08T09:59:37.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens? Depending upon exposure to the elements, sun/rain and climate the car will deteriorate. The more extreme the environment/climate the faster things expire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyres go flat.&#xA;Rubber perishes (tyres, wiper blades)&#xA;Fuel goes off.&#xA;Grease hardens. &#xA;Oil breaks down.&#xA;Any raw metal parts not covered in oil/grease could rust/corrode.&#xA;Batteries die. &#xA;Electrical contacts corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the Jeep stored inside? Under a cover? Extreme environment? Sun/Salt/Snow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T09:59:37.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18259" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:28:47.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The torque converter in a &quot;standard&quot; automatic transmission does the job of a clutch, and it doesn't really wear out in the same way as a clutch does - a clutch is two dry pieces of material holding each other through friction (kind of like 2 sheets of sandpaper pressed against each other), and each time the clutch is slipped those surfaces rub against each other instead of moving in sync, causing that grippy material to be slowly worn off. In a torque converter, you have something somewhat similar to a turbine with a fluid solution inside of it - the &quot;friction&quot; is the turbine blades against the fluid it is filled with, instead of two surfaces contacting each other. This doesn't cause the same type of wear because the surfaces aren't abrasive against each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part of the reason automatic transmissions are kind of common in drag racing - in automatic cars, you can abuse the torque converter by stepping on the brake AND gas, up until the point where the torque converter stops locking up. This is generally around 2-3k RPMS, which means when you let off the brakes, the car launches in a more favorable position of the RPM range. You could also do this in a manual car (slip the clutch as much as possible) but you would be absolutely destroying your clutch, similar to holding a car still on an incline via the clutch. Anytime that you are applying more power than you have wheel movement means that the clutch must be slipping, and that means those friction plates are rubbing against each other instead of moving in sync, and therefore are wearing away. So you don't really have to worry about wearing out a torque converter from slipping/engine braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: to answer the question more clearly - the torque converter in an automatic transmission doesn't operate the same as a clutch. But you can still brake and operate the clutch on a manual car as well (heel-toe shifting, check my comment below) and it isn't &quot;good&quot; for the clutch, but is a valid driving technique, and as long as it is executed properly you shouldn't be putting much wear on your clutch anyways while downshifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastEditorUserId="10826" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T15:28:38.473" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:28:38.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:29:49.810" Score="3" ViewCount="3927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just trying to figure out the normal operating range of an alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've found is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/469058-alternator-high-voltage-15-3v.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/469058-alternator-high-voltage-15-3v.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15.3 is not a high voltage condition for the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range on the cluster is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.2-9.1 volts, low voltage mark and below.&#xA;16.9-19.1 volts, high voltage mark and above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no source for these values.  Does anyone if the above is correct?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;9.2V seems too low and 16.8V seems very high to be considered normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I intend to use the electrical system to power a 15V rated device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T17:47:38.843" Title="Alternator voltage range" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:38:16.160" Score="2" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire appeared to have a slow leak as I kept having to add air to it.  So, I used Fix a Flat and now I have vibration at high speeds from that tire. What do you think might be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also been told that my rear axle might need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.  Not sure what to do and have little $$ to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11197" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T17:44:25.007" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:00:27.153" Title="Tire Vibration from right rear tire at high speeds" Tags="|vibration|axle|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7501" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:39:49.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've checked a number of sources and they all state that the engines in these are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Interference Engines&lt;/a&gt; so there is a good chance of contact between the valves and the piston crowns.  A compression test once the timing has been re-set would be a simple way to check if this has happened without taking the engine to pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:39:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18286" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:54:32.657" Score="2" ViewCount="27455" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that there is something loose (pebble, rock, or some other small, foreign object) behind the hub cap, but I hear a crackling or popping sound (almost like Pop Rocks or Rice Krispies) when my 2011 Kia Rio gently rolls forward or backward at a slow speed. It almost sounds &quot;sandy,&quot; if that makes sense, like the noise a heavy car might make when rolling forward over a sandy or salted pavement. (I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible to help cue people in.) However, it seems to occur even on smooth pavement, and the Kia Rio is comparatively not a heavy car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound either goes away or becomes inaudible (indistinguishable from background noise) when actually driving. It does not occur when immobile/idling. The sound is irregular, in the sense that it seems more like random crackling or popping. From the driver's seat, it seems like it's coming from beneath the car or near the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first car in many years--I have lived in a city and been using public transit for a long time--so I am willing to admit that I am just not accustomed to the sounds that a car normally makes. Preliminary Internet research seems to have ruled out things like bad brakes or suspension, but I'm not sure. It would be great to learn that this is just one of those noises cars can make, and that it's innocuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11198" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T18:07:25.657" Title="Crackling/popping when wheels move at slow speed (e.g., rolling forward in drive)" Tags="|noise|suspension|wheels|kia|rio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:58:47.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common causes from personal experience are general related to stones or pebbles jammed somewhere.  Places to check are in the tyre treads themselves and also between the brake disc and the dust guard behind the disc (don't burn yourself though as the disc can become quite hot after recent operation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:58:47.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18276" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:02:26.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the fix-a-flat has thrown your wheel out of balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tyre fitters will balance your wheels for a very small cost.  I would have this done first before spending any more time or money looking at the axle, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:02:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:51:56.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my sister's '88 Civic with 120,000 miles in '97.  It currently has 383,000 miles on it.  Always starts and averages 45-47 mpg on highway (one hour 50 mile trips to work).  I maintain it well.  Have never flushed cooling system.  Use Wal-mart green antifreeze.  Change every three years.  Including original water pump, car has had three.  None have ever leaked, just changed them every other timing belt change.  Only use distilled water.  Replaced radiator once, because of a stress crack in the plastic where one of the fan shrouds attaches.  Also use Wal-mart oil since I've owned it, changed every 3000 miles.  All I can say for sure is that it's worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad rented out boats with outboard motors, during the premix 50:1 days.  All Mercurys except one Johnson.  Used Wal-mart two cycle water cooled oil.  Never had an oil related engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of us work for Wal-mart or have any stock in the company.  The point is that corporate America is full of people that tell untruths in order to sell products (in this case, fluids) that are overpriced, yet carry ratings similar to less costly choices.  If Wal-mart sold products that caused failures, would that not make news?  I've never heard of a case, so I buy the least expensive I can and do routine maintenance.  Even the lawn mowers work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11201" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:51:56.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18284" CreationDate="2015-07-08T17:10:22.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drove the car to work yesterday, made a few stops along the way with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got out of the office, the car would no longer crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a CEL, but no DTC (checked with HP Tuners). No security light. Battery is good (checked with a multimeter while someone else tried to start - dropped from 12.2V to 11.9V). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scanner can talk to the ECM, all accessories work. I can hear the fuel pump and starter relay clicking. The starter is about a month old and has, at no point, given any indication of suboptimal performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a week ago, I had a similar issue, but it turned out to be a blown 30A fuse. I replaced that and everything was fine. I pulled and checked all of the fuses and everything looks fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When viewing the status bits in my scanner, I can see that the clutch position switch is working. I also see a crank request when trying to start the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier today, it &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; cranked for about half a second, then stopped. Haven't been able to repeat that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good times. I have the factory service manual set but haven't found a useful diagnostic procedure (though I'm probably just looking in the wrong place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:52:01.600" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T10:53:59.503" Title="2006 Solstice - CEL, no DTC, won't crank" Tags="|electrical|starting|pontiac|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18283" CreationDate="2015-07-08T17:34:01.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest it's actually the battery which is at fault. A good battery should register about 13.1-13.5vdc when fully charged. When down to the low 12vdc region (and dropping into 11vdc area during attempted start), the battery really isn't at a good point as far as a charge goes. I'd take it to a parts store and have them load test it for you. They can tell you whether my theory is correct or not. You should be able to give it a jump start and see if that will get the car on the road, then take it to the store to have the battery checked. If a jump start doesn't get you started, my theory may be blown out of the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T17:34:01.953" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18275" CreationDate="2015-07-08T17:47:38.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The normal range for most alternators to run is ~14.1vdc. When the system is run higher than that (in the range you are talking about ... 15vdc plus), it will boil (and ultimately ruin) the battery. Depending on the load, the regulator may put out more than 15vdc, but this will be on a very short term basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T17:47:38.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18278" CreationDate="2015-07-08T17:48:32.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are no noticeable rocks/debris as Steve states another possibility is it may be normal noise.  Tires will deform slightly when rolling to form a flat contact patch with the road surface.  When this happens the rubber treads stretch and compress and make &quot;groaning&quot; sounds.  The quality and type of rubber, the tread pattern, and the age of the tire can greatly effect the noise the rubber makes in addition to the road surface.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a tire comes up to normal driving speeds this deflection becomes normal background noise.  Sometimes this effect can form a resonance with the air cavity of the tire and form a droning sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also may be some mechanical issues with bearings or other rolling parts.  Normally bearing issues will become louder the faster it turns, but in the early stages of failure this may not be the case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise changes while rolling over different road surfaces, asphalt vs concrete vs coated/painted, it's like just normal tire noises.  If it remains the same trapped debris is more likely.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T17:48:32.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18276" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:00:27.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely related to using Fix-A-Flat. The Fix-A-Flat has added enough weight to the inside of the tire to throw off balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the fluid it puts inside the tire will likely continue to keep that tire unbalanced, even if it is rebalanced at a shop. They may even find they are unable to balance it because when it's on the machine, since the weight inside (the liquid) keeps moving around, it will be impossible to &quot;zero&quot; the weight of the tire and achieve a smooth ride. The good news is that you likely do NOT need an axle replacement - the unbalanced tire won't cause that to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper solution here is to either have the tire professionally patched (which would include also unmounting the tire from the rim and cleaning out the Fix-A-Flat &quot;gunk&quot;), or replacing the tire. Fix-A-Flat isn't intended to be a permanent fix for a leaking tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2489" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:00:27.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17033" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:22:23.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise you describe is a VERY common issue with the transmission in the model of RX-7 you are driving. As a matter of fact, my current RX-7 (1991, 220k miles) has this exact same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your description, the noise is almost certainly coming from the transmission's input shaft bearing - not any part of the clutch assembly, or anything that would have been replaced during a clutch replacement. The only true fix for it is a disassembly of the manual transmission itself, and replacement of the affected bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, all you can really do between now and eventually replacing that bearing is to keep the gearbox oil level full and clean. Some suggest trying different oils (e.g. Royal Purple) but that would only (if anything) reduce noise, and is not really addressing or repairing the issue. The good news is, it's not typically an issue that will cause you to &quot;get stuck somewhere&quot; unless it gets bad enough for the bearing to completely fail (unlikely as long as you keep that fluid clean and full!). You can usually drive with it making that noise indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2489" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:22:23.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T02:57:02.633" Score="4" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put different doors on my ford van that have power windows and locks.  My van was not equipped with these features originally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get power to the doors in order to make the windows and door locks function properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11206" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T06:13:12.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T06:13:12.213" Title="1998 Ford E150 Van - Implementing Power Doors and Windows" Tags="|electrical|ford|power-windows|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2015-07-09T08:39:43.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I know this question was asked over a year ago. Whatever. &#xA;First there is no drain back valve on the n42 oil filter element and you cannot fit it &quot;upside down&quot;. It can be fitted either way.If this oil light delay definitely occurred strait after the oil &amp;amp; filter change, and you did NOTHING else, then the answer will lie in either of these i.e. the oil is thicker than the previous oil or the filter had a higher flow resistance than before.&#xA;Somehow you have introduced a flow resistance that wasn't there earlier and the oil is taking a second or so longer to get from the pump to the bearings to build up pressure to operate the sensor. &#xA;It would be a coincidence that the sensor failed exactly when you did the oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11207" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T14:47:43.307" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:47:43.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18301" CreationDate="2015-07-09T11:22:15.523" Score="19" ViewCount="504180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I* hit a curb and got a small tear in the front passenger side tire. The tear is about 1&quot; long and goes mostly across the surface of the tire but also a little bit, maybe 1/4&quot;, toward the inside of the tire. If this is beyond cosmetic and not repairable, I'll of course replace the tire. But these tires only have about 3000 miles on them and to my uneducated eyes, this area of the tire looks like a rubber ridge designed for style or rim protection rather than structure. Not that the rim protection worked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4iUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lifting the tear to show size&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPYMC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;With measuring tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are BF Goodrich Advantage T/A tires, size 225/50R17, in case that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* OK, it was my wife driving at the time, but I'd never blame her in public!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11208" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:26:58.670" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T21:25:47.997" Title="Can this tire sidewall damage be repaired or should I replace the tire?" Tags="|tires|repair|safety|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18296" CreationDate="2015-07-09T11:47:12.010" Score="2" ViewCount="2130" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the dangers associated with using a spare tyre that is several years past expiry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people do this and live to tell the tale (a spare wheel manufactured in 2003 used to hobble an Escalade for a few miles to the nearest tyre shop in 2014) but I wonder if it is risky enough to warrant changing out the wheel every now again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My VW dealer also recently recommended that I replace the space-saver on my 2006 Touareg even though it is unused. Would space-savers suffer from similar degradation as a normal air-filled tyre?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T10:52:56.940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:52:56.940" Title="Should the spare tyre be periodically replaced?" Tags="|tires|spare-tire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18293" CreationDate="2015-07-09T12:44:48.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will degrade over time, but at a much slower rate because it's not exposed to the elements like the other four are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T13:00:48.950" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T13:00:48.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:00:04.887" Score="2" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear tires are getting worn from the inside. I don't know whether the rubber bushes are worn-out or is something else. There is that clanging sound from the back. I tried wheel alignment many times but the problem still persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11209" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T14:46:06.553" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:46:06.553" Title="Rear Mazda 3 tyres wearing from the inside" Tags="|tires|mazda|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18293" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:08:48.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by @JuannStrauss, a spare tyre that is stored inboard of the vehicle will degrade more slowly over time than one of the regular wheels since it is not exposed to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal wear &amp;amp; tear from vehicle motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other physical aggression (hitting a curb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;winter salt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating in summer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these dry out the tyre composants and degrade their performance. However, even in their absence tyres still degrade slowly over time. Many vehicle owners also forget to keep the spare tyre inflated to its correct operating pressure, so some deformation can occur over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means an old tyre will be more exposed to over-heating when eventually run, leading perhaps to a blow-out. If you do need to use it, run at moderate speed over as short a distance as possible (no leaving the blown tyre to repair next week, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of personal opinion, I would probably risk it, but exercising much care - and not with a tyre going on 10 years as you are about to do. However, you should also be aware of the possible legal repercussions if you should be involved in an accident. The other side's legal representatives would no doubt jump on the occasion to try shift the fault onto you, and expired tyres are an objective argument that is hard to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as pointed out by @JuannStrauss, having &lt;em&gt;five&lt;/em&gt; tyres of identical size allows you to rotate between them at each regular inspection. However, in your vehicle the wheel receptacle is too shallow for a regular tyre, and you may deform the lower boot surface (carpet). If you do go down this path, I would simply pack the spare tyre in a garbage bag, and lay it flat on top of the carpet, not in the receptacle. You will loose some boot space, but you have plenty of that in your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T13:08:48.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18295" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:37:59.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal for tires to wear faster on the inside.  When the alignment is done, the camber is set negative, so the tires lean slightly inward.  They are typically more negative on the rear to help avoid oversteer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the clank - under what conditions do you hear it?  going over bumps, in turns, braking, accelerating?  can you recreate this noise while the vehicle is parked?  Can you jack up the vehicle and inspect to see if anything is physically broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T13:37:59.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:44:32.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These appear to be Torx bolts, and require Torx tools to remove and replace them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11211" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T13:44:32.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2015-07-09T14:44:55.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;this area of the tire looks like a rubber ridge designed for style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrong, This part of the tyre protects sharp objects from getting into the inner more structural parts of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage to your tyre does not seem too critical to cause any immediate change to driving or safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if any sharp objects hit the wall in this particular area it will be a problem , I would say , use them for another 5k miles and replace them just to be sure. I had a similar wear on my tyre and they held good for a long time but its just me, since they were practically new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : In case your tyre forms a bulge at that particular area , I would consider replacing it definitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:44:55.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:00:16.807" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage you are showing is minor cosmetic damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the following occurs with sidewall damage, then get it replaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire deflation (cannot be legally repaired in most countries)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pull the flap back and see damage to the side wall plies (corded area under the rubber which supports the tire) whether deflation has occurred or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bulging of the tire at the damage site&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't seeing any of these things, you should not have any issues running your tire until the tread wears out (normal use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note (and primarily my opinion with nothing to really back it up), the area where your damage has occurred seems to be extra rubber put in place on low profile tires to help protect the rims from curb rash. Yours looks like it was a little more serious of a curb encounter, but still, if no issues as stated above, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; If the flap of rubber sticking out bothers you (aesthetically), use a small amount of rubber cement to it and it should keep it in place. It really isn't bothering anything the way it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T15:29:03.420" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:29:03.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18400" CreationDate="2015-07-09T16:50:24.830" Score="6" ViewCount="12900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to start my car today but something strange keeps on happening. It turns on just fine, but once the engine is operating it starts revving to 4000 RPM even though I am not pressing the gas pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried turning it on and off again and also tried a &quot;hard&quot; reset by disconnecting the battery for a few mins and then re-connecting it and trying again... but alas the engine still revs to 4000 RPM for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time of typing this question, its currently summer here in the UK, so I know its not doing this to make the engine warm as the weather isn't cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the issue be and how can I fix it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2005 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 V8 SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Dan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T17:04:42.737" Title="Engine revs to 4000 RPM without pressing gas pedal" Tags="|engine|ignition|rpm|jaguar|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T17:22:42.643" Score="4" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a 1999 Mazda 626 that had the transmission rebuilt 5 or 6 years ago. Recently the car started having problems starting unless it was shifted in to neutral. I replaced the neutral safety switch/transmission range sensor on it. That solved the starting problem, but a new problem has surfaced following that repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, though not always, the car will start in 2nd, and won't shift past 3rd gear. If you come to a stop and shift the car into park or neutral, then back in to drive, it will fix the problem (sometimes it takes multiple tries to get the car shifting normally again). If the car starts up and shifts normally, or if it is returned to shifting normally via the neutral/park trick, it will stay that way and shift fine so long as we don't take it out of drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked for ODB2 codes, and nothing came up. I've suspected that the sensor I replaced could be faulty, but considering it was a $40+ part I would like to consider other options first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T22:35:19.033" Title="1999 Mazda 626 Auto Transmission Starts in 2nd, wont shift past 3rd" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda|shifting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6873" CreationDate="2015-07-09T18:44:43.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my 2004 chevrolet malibu classic. I replaced the oxygen sensor, crank sensor, fuel pump, and thermostat. Come to find out, it was my computer module. If your check engine light do not come on and you continue to have a &quot;no start&quot; problem, it may be your computer module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11214" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:44:43.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2015-07-09T20:13:23.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently had a Ford Capri with a 3 litre V6 Essex engine which shook/vibrated badly at idle, done a compression test and 2 cylinders were nearly 40psi lower than the other 4 cylinders, took the engine out stripped it down and the rings on those cylinders were fried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11216" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T20:13:23.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T21:27:25.247" Score="5" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in getting to know how brake-by-wire system works in today's cars. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1qt84c2KN0&quot;&gt;This video shows&lt;/a&gt; that the Electronic stability control/program (ESC/ESP) intervenes by braking individual wheels. So I assume a car with ESC is able to brake-by-wire since the electronics brakes by itself and there is no driver braking action present. So how exactly is brake-by-wire done technically? Is there an electric motor attached to every single brake or does it work by hydraulics somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am involved in a research project that need to use brake-by-wire actually so I am interested in getting to know whether there are ways of how to initiate braking electronically. Do I need to hack the ESC unit to see how the system works or are there general principles used for all ESC systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T22:19:57.457" Title="How does brake-by-wire exactly work?" Tags="|brakes|esp-esc|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18309" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mechanical part of the engine follows the profile of the cam lobe and translates that motion out to the valve. This motion opens the valve so that air/fuel can enter a cylinder by the intake valve during the intake cycle and so exhaust can escape from the cylinder during the exhaust cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6Zvk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NM6P7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical lifter/valve arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lifters can be either hydraulic or solid (mechanical). Hydraulic lifters are pumped up using engine oil. This provides a buffer which provides cushion for the entire valve train, but can reduce performance, especially at higher engine speeds. At higher engine speeds, lifters can become what is termed &quot;pumped up&quot;, which can cause valve float and possible engine damage. The solid lifter is just what the name implies: It's solid. In order to overcome the nature of it, you need to &lt;em&gt;lash&lt;/em&gt; the rocker arm, or leave space between the rocker arm and the valve. If there isn't any space, the valve will not close entirely during operation, which will reduce performance. The solid lifter can allow for much higher engine speeds before valve float occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lifter can also be a &quot;flat tappet&quot; or of the roller variety. Either of these can be solid or hydraulic. A flat tappet lifter body has a machined face which rides directly on the cam eccentric. A roller lifter has a separate roller piece attached to the base of the lifter which rolls against the cam eccentric. The roller lifter has a lot of performance advantages over the flat tappet, though is more expensive in initial cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18310" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" Score="0" Body="Mechanical part which rides upon a cam lobe and allows for the actuation of the lifter. Also known as a &quot;tappet&quot; and just &quot;lifter&quot;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T23:06:47.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18236" CreationDate="2015-07-10T00:13:05.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would depend a great deal on the load carried and the tyre pressure.&#xA;The tyres will Flex and bulge somewhat and can fail if allowed to rub against the chassis.&#xA;My trailer has a couple of inches clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T00:13:05.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18318" CreationDate="2015-07-10T04:51:36.020" Score="4" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mk1 Golf (no power steering). Today I was pulling a hard right to do a U turn and heard a slight clunk. Now the steering is very loose and unaligned. You almost have to turn the wheel 45 degrees either direction for anything to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what I should be looking for to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:54:31.787" Title="Steering suddenly has become very loose" Tags="|vw|golf|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T05:25:40.053" Score="7" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gathering the necessary equipment to start my next little hobby project building my own fairings. I got about 5 yards of carbon-fiber/Kevlar and another 5 yards of fiberglass, 10ft of 3' carbon fiber &quot;tape&quot;, a gallon of epoxy, a quart of pva release, a vacuum pump, degassing chamber, and all the plastic and tape to do vacuum bagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to minimize the amount of trial and error due to the expense of the carbon fiber. I've done a lot of reading and a little bit of YouTube watching as well.  I want to open up this question to see if anyone might have some worthwhile knowledge to impart. It's appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My big open questions at the moment are, &lt;strong&gt;how many layers should I build up and will I need a filler material&lt;/strong&gt; (honeycomb or poor mans alternative: cardboard). Currently I'm planning to do a layer of the more expensive black and red carbonfiber/Kevlar hybrid on top, with a couple layers of slightly cheaper carbonfiber on the backside, and a layer or two of fiberglass sandwiched in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's not really clear to me what should be done when you have to build the part in multiple pieces? Due toll the curves and mounting points on the back I think I'll have tonsils the front and back as separate parts, and in some cases to account for angles may have to build a piece in 3 or 4 parts. My question is, &lt;strong&gt;how do you then bind those parts together to assemble the final result?&lt;/strong&gt; This seems like a stupid question that will undoubtedly end with a smack on the forehead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to start with either the upper side fairings &lt;em&gt;(the bottom two &quot;wing&quot; looking pieces in the picture)&lt;/em&gt; or the airbox cover &lt;em&gt;(top right)&lt;/em&gt;, followed by the rear underbody &lt;em&gt;(top left in picture)&lt;/em&gt;, lower sides &lt;em&gt;(not shown but in second picture, they are the large pieces on the right bottom)&lt;/em&gt;, upper rear &lt;em&gt;(second row on left in picture)&lt;/em&gt;, and end with the front pieces &lt;em&gt;(second row on right and 3rd row on left)&lt;/em&gt; which I imagine will be the most challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it's all fun, whether I screw up or or. I enjoy the process. It'll be a lot more fun if it turns out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0Fwq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fm8a3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T15:28:53.153" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:28:53.153" Title="DIY carbon-fiber parts layup" Tags="|parts|body-work|fabrication|carbon-fiber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18324" CreationDate="2015-07-10T05:39:41.780" Score="6" ViewCount="2880" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a recent oil change Istripped the oil pan bolt.  It took a bit of trial and error for me to realize the stripped hole was a 14mm 1.25 thread so I got a tap and rethread it to 14mm 1.5 thread with a new bolt to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I completely failed to think of at the time was all the metal I was cutting when rethreading the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since changing my oil the motorcycle has been running not to my satisfaction and my first thought is that I may have some metal shards swimming around in my oil wrecking havoc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be changing my oil again tomorrow hoping to clear out any contamination when I drain the oil but what should I do to best clear it out aside from tearing apart the whole engine which I may do at a later time but don't have the time to do now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I run some oil through it and drain the oil multiple times hoping that the fluid washes out the contaminants?  Maybe blast the oil pan with my air compressor to try to fish whatever I can through the plug hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this contamination really even be the cause of any major issues? I doubt it's much, a lot of the metal stuck tithe tap when I pulled it out, but how much did not.. I don't know, and didn't even think to check at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:43:31.713" Title="How to clean engine when oil is contaminated with metal shards?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|oil-change|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18319" CreationDate="2015-07-10T06:00:10.820" Score="3" ViewCount="1624" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I started my car and the e-brake light stayed on after releasing it and I figured it was electrical at first.  When I started using the brakes I realized I had to push about twice as far before they start to catch and they are much weaker than usual.  I've refilled the brake fluid about 5 times in the past 3 days, and it helps a little right at first, but pretty much goes back almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little testing on gravel and the front brakes will engage and the anti-lock will kick in pretty fast but the rear doesn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this is a leak?  A burst something?  Any repair cost estimates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11224" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T08:38:30.240" Title="Brake fluid gone, rear brakes out. '99 pathfinder" Tags="|brakes|nissan|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18314" CreationDate="2015-07-10T07:38:24.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it was because a bolt holding the steering rack in place had sheared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very dangerous and glad I decided to visit a mechanic! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T10:10:47.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:10:47.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18317" CreationDate="2015-07-10T08:38:30.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a leak or a burst hose or pipe. Modern braking systems have a safety feature that lets you use some brakes even if a hose burst, so that would explain why only the front brakes seems to take. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_brake#Component_specifics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_brake#Component_specifics&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the FMVSS Standard 105, 1976; requires the master cylinder is divided internally into two sections, each of which pressurizes a separate hydraulic circuit. Each section supplies pressure to one circuit. The combination is known as a dual master cylinder. Passenger vehicles typically have either a front/rear split brake system or a diagonal split brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is get under the car and see if you can locate any leaks, start right by the wheels and follow the lines from there. I would bet its a hose or a rusty pipe that is your culprit. Since fluid is disappearing you should be able to find where it goes. Refill your brake system and ask a friend to push the brakes while you investigate if you cannot see right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like at least some pathfinders have drum brakes as well, if your car has, it could be that the wheel cylinder leaks and lowers the friction of the brake shoes (which can make it seem like you have no brakes at all). This should be on only one side of the car though as long as there is fluid left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOduq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for cost you can probably get a hose for 10$, but replacing a brake line is more work and not as cheap. If there's a problem with wheel or master cylinder, more work is involved as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should definitely look into this problem ASAP, you are driving without brake system redundancy and if a front wheel hose breaks as well you will be riding only with your handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also please note that the brake fluid is wery unhealthy both for you and your environment, so be careful with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T08:38:30.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18306" CreationDate="2015-07-10T09:28:00.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the systems I am familiar with the ABS module (which is a part under the bonnet through which all of the brake pipes are routed) is able to electronically apply or remove hydraulic pressure to a specific brake line (thus braking or releasing the brake on a specific wheel).  These modules are pretty expensive to replace too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T09:28:00.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2015-07-10T09:31:51.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use oil flushing agent which is available from most motor factors or, if you cant get any, add a small amount of diesel to the old oil and allow the vehicle to idle for a short period prior to removing the old oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a large magnet on the sump pan which you then draw to the drain hole should drag out any rogue metal trapped in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if your vehicle has replaceable oil filtration but if it does, I'd be inclined to replace this during your oil change too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T09:31:51.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2015-07-10T09:47:22.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add two valid points to this discussion as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt;  When producing engines like this which produce more power with lower CC's, they won't be as smooth as their bigger naturally aspirated predecessors. They will have to rev higher just to produce the same power. So lets say you are driving at 70 MPH with a 5.0 V8, you could comfortably cruise at 1400 RPM (maybe even a bit less). A smaller turbo charged version of that engine, will probably rev at 1600 RPM (if not more). So the smaller CC engine will make more noise and won't be as smooth to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt;  The engine won't last as long because it has to deal with more stress just to produce the same power as the bigger naturally aspirated engine. In order to deal with this stress, the engine block is made to withstand much higher pressures, which could potentially increase the cost of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A good example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a great example of this, is the Mercedes-Benz AMG 4.0 V8 BITURBO engine. It is being used to replace the lovely old 6.2 V8 on cars such as the C63 AMG. Anyway, I think in the long run, we will see customer reviews state that there C63's engine doesn't last as long as their previous C63's because the engine has been reduced in CC. Its also worth noting that the new C63 costs more than the previous C63, this could be to account for the extra cost of the new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="11074" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T09:59:46.877" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T09:59:46.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14969" CreationDate="2015-07-10T10:39:38.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another point that hasn't been mentioned - a smaller, turbocharged engines uses less fuel when not on boost (as Juann Strauss says) - this means that it produces less emissions (which has to be a good thing, especially in urban areas where air quality is becoming a major issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less emissions also means they reduce the average emissions over the manufacturer's range, which helps them comply with recent EU laws (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://ec.europa.eu/clima/policies/transport/vehicles/cars/index_en.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) - especially useful for 'premium' manufacturers like Mercedes who mostly produce high end, high emission cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:39:38.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2015-07-10T10:43:31.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by your other questions on the site your motorcycle is a '12 Yamaha R6. If so, you have an oil filter, which should pick up the metal flakes and any other debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new oil filter and fresh oil should be sufficient to clean out the unwanted debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that the metal flakes are responsible for a performance degradation if the oil filter is working as it should be. I would double check to make sure that the right amount of oil was put in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:43:31.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18306" CreationDate="2015-07-10T11:46:49.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I may be able to answer myself finally. After some more research I found that there may be some confusion in how the systems are named. What is meant by a brake-by-wire system is usually a braking pedal that is mechanically decoupled from the rest of the braking system. This is different from what I actually need to do, because I do not need any pedal action at all, I just need to control the brakes electronically even on say a &quot;non-brake-by-wire&quot; car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Real brake-by-wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the system with a decoupled braking pedal. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf110412.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; mentions two types of systems - electro-hydraulic and electro-mechanical. You can research them there. These systems seem not to be standard on today's car at all, there were few models by Mercedes and Toyota in the past 10 years or so some of which had to go through recall because the system was unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Braking by electronics (ESC/ESP etc.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously ESC/ESP can brake individual wheels by itself which is a kind of &quot;brake-by-wire&quot; to me but the industry does not call it so. This &quot;autonomous braking&quot; seems to be done by Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU, sometimes HECU) which is usually common for both ABS and ESC. This unit sits behind the master braking cylinder and has 2 fluid inputs but 4 fluid outputs (one for each of 4 wheels). For normal braking the unit just lets the braking fluid pass through without any intervention. The unit has an electric pump attached to it and if ESC wants to brake a wheel it seems to choose one of the 4 outputs and pressures it by itself (without the pressure input from master cylinder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing here for me seems to be that the HCU is a black box in terms of software - it gets inputs from various sensors (wheel speed, yaw rate etc.) and decides by itself which wheel to brake. So in order to be able to initiate a braking action externally one would need to either send input signals that would result in all 4 wheels braking (need to reverse engineer the unit first and I also doubt such signal combination even exists) or hack the electronics to in lower level to pressure all 4 brakes in the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution for me may be to leave the HCU alone and make the system pressurized somehow else. I found there is a part called &quot;electric vacuum (booster) pump&quot;, although I have not done deeper research on it yet. Any hits are welcome! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It indeed looks like there are ABS/ESC HCU units today that can accept external signals to initiate the braking. These units are used in cars with Autonomous Emergency Braking systems. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trw.com/braking_systems/slip_control_systems/electronic_stability_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TRW EBC460&lt;/a&gt; is said to have AEB feature and seems to have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.drive2.ru/l/6341662/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAN bus&lt;/a&gt; so I suspect it may be able to accept certain can bus messages that initiate the braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFAIK most hybrid vehicles provide means of doing brake-by-wire in order to allow for &quot;regenerative braking&quot;. They do not 100% mechanically decouple the brake pedal from the brake system itself (there remains a certain mechanical connection for emergency case) but allow for programmatic braking control for the most braking scenarios (probably all except panical emergency braking). This is why hybrid vehicles are very popular for autonomous car research (Google's Toyota Prius etc.) because they in general are very easy to convert to 100% programmatic control (steering, accelerating, braking). The brake-by-wire really is a &quot;killer feature&quot; of hybrids and 100% electric vehicles for autonomous car research purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T16:29:08.780" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T16:29:08.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18213" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:43:24.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following two items are the exact replacement for various year/make/models of GM vehicles with a 4.3 L engine, including my 1995 Blazer (vin W with PCM)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spectra Premium &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/prod/GM23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model #GM23 &quot;new&quot; distributor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cardone &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=84-1635&amp;amp;make=Chevrolet%20Trucks&amp;amp;model=S10%20Blazer&amp;amp;year=1995&amp;amp;info=w%2FPowertrain%20Control%20Module%20(K29)%3A%3A%3ASupplied%20w%2FCap%20and%20Rotor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model 84-1635 &quot;new&quot; distributor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is an acceptable amount of up/down play in a distributor shaft?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contact both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spectrapremium.com/overview.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spectra Premium&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cardone.com/about-us/core-philosophy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cardone&lt;/a&gt; several days ago.  I never heard back from the Cardone representative.  However, after much email back &amp;amp; forth with a representative of Spectra Premium, I got the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to their supplier, the actual GM spec for endplay on this particular model of distributor is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0.024&quot; - 0.047&quot; (0.6mm - 1.2mm)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:32:35.127" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:32:35.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:08:41.327" Score="-1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;This scooter won't start when it gets wet when it rains what could be the problem? The undercarriage is not getting wet and the harness in the front is not getting wet and I don't have a clue where to look for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11229" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T15:31:10.037" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T01:00:29.973" Title="2010 jonway scooter won't start" Tags="|starting|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:49:33.273" Score="3" ViewCount="3337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my engine apart and one of the things I noticed, on both cylinder heads of my Tacoma V6, is that the intake valves (picture right) are significantly darker (or dirtier) than the exhaust ones (picture left).  Why is that the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71n7Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:46:41.057" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:46:41.057" Title="Why are intake valves dirtier than exhaust?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18335" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:51:26.933" Score="7" ViewCount="169554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to jump your car with too many amps (i.e., with a 1000 amp jumper vs. a 400 amp jumper)? Or does the car regulate how many amps it will take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I was told 400 amps is enough for most cars. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11230" LastEditorUserId="11230" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T16:00:11.903" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T16:46:53.193" Title="Jumping car with too many amps?" Tags="|battery|starter|jump-start|charging|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18314" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:54:31.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this in one of my Mk1 Golf GTI's and what had actually happened was that the bulkhead had corroded and the steering rack mount came away from the bulkhead which caused the steering column to disconnect from the rack thus loosing all steering.  Thankfully it happened at a low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely a weak point on the Mk1 Golf and anyone else reading this ought to be aware and inspect theirs carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:54:31.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:55:37.823" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter circuit should only draw whatever current it needs so the excess shouldn't cause any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T16:21:01.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T16:21:01.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18306" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:57:45.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with the pure brake by wire setups where the brake pedal is completely decoupled from the hydraulics, or the systems where they're using regenerative &quot;load&quot; style brakes.  In a electronically controlled system where your pedal is still coupled to the hydraulics, there is an ABS unit that all the brake lines run through.  This has motors in it to allow it to apply hydraulic pressure to the lines running to each wheel to apply the brakes.  This can also block your pedal from activating the brakes while it's in control.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for understanding this system, cars produced in the last few years have a control bus network tying together the various electronic modules.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ni.com/white-paper/2732/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ni.com/white-paper/2732/en/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the modules can act independently but also can be controlled by the ECU.  Typically on advanced cars with things like avoidance control, active handling, automatic braking, etc... all of the various sensors are tied in through the CAN and with the ECU or a dedicated module will interpret the data and send out the commands to the ECU/PCM to control throttle, the ABS to apply brakes, etc.... as needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are diagnostic tools that will activate these systems for testing.  There's also been news recently about research in to &quot;hacking&quot; cars to control them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.networkworld.com/article/2209501/network-security/car-hackers-can-kill-brakes--engine--and-more.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.networkworld.com/article/2209501/network-security/car-hackers-can-kill-brakes--engine--and-more.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who's worked on car electronics, this isn't really news that you can send commands across the control bus.  I very much doubt manufactures would release documentation on how their systems work, but there are groups doing this kind of research.  If you have physical access to the car you should be able debug the system to isolate the commands and send new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:57:45.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2015-07-10T16:05:07.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhaust valves are hotter because they are venting the combusted hot air.  This causes them to not collect deposits or burn of any thing that tries to deposit on them.  Intake valves are constantly receiving a cold charge of air/gas coming in.  They run cooler and deposits tend to collect on them and you'll get a nice dark carbon layer on the bottom.  If you look at the top side of the intake valve it will likely have buildup as well due to this.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastEditorUserId="11174" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T16:31:48.033" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T16:31:48.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2015-07-10T16:17:09.757" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amp count tells you the maximum amount of current that the equipment can supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your car needs &lt;code&gt;600 amps&lt;/code&gt; to start: The &lt;code&gt;1000 amp&lt;/code&gt; jumper can handle it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your car needs &lt;code&gt;1200 amps&lt;/code&gt;: The &lt;code&gt;1000 amp&lt;/code&gt; jumper can't do it. You'll have to find a bigger one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that this does not apply to &lt;code&gt;voltage&lt;/code&gt;. If you have a &lt;code&gt;6V&lt;/code&gt; battery and you connect it to a &lt;code&gt;12V&lt;/code&gt; source, you can blow the battery up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T16:17:09.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2015-07-10T16:42:27.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those numbers are the &lt;strong&gt;max&lt;/strong&gt; that they can supply.  Your starter will &quot;automatically&quot; use as much as it needs up to the max.  If the starter needs more than those units can supply, the jumper will only provide its max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is only &lt;strong&gt;partly&lt;/strong&gt; dead, i.e. it won't start, but the interior lights come on, you can use a smaller jumper than if your battery was completely dead (and likely damaged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 amps is probably enough to start most small to midsize &lt;strong&gt;CARS&lt;/strong&gt; and the smallest of SUVs and trucks.  To start &quot;bigger&quot; vehicles you will probably need the 1000 amp unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery for your car is picked out by the engineers so it's &lt;code&gt;cold cranking amps (CCA)&lt;/code&gt; number is bigger than the needed amps to start the engine.  My truck battery says it produces 700 CCA so I can assume that I would need a jumper unit that can provide 700 amps or more if my battery is completely, hopelessly dead.  I could use a smaller unit if my battery still had some juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote: If you're looking at one of those portable, &quot;save yourself&quot; units, don't buy it.  They hardly ever work.  Invest in a &lt;strong&gt;thick&lt;/strong&gt; pair of reasonably long jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T20:29:52.797" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T20:29:52.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T17:05:59.257" Score="2" ViewCount="20134" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I lower down the windows of my car, I hear that the seal is a little stuck to it and I think that's going to damage it eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the way to prevent this? Is there some product I could apply to the rubber seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is happening in hot weather (so it's not due to the windows being frozen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11231" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T16:06:45.040" Title="How to prevent the windows from sticking to the rubber seal?" Tags="|window|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18336" CreationDate="2015-07-10T19:13:09.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the interference is mild it may be useful to apply silicone spray to the rubber seal. As with any lubricant though, the effect will not last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The permanent fix is to address the cause for the interference. More likely than not the issue will be caused by a slight misalignment of the window regulator. Old rubber seals are unlikely to cause the window glass to stick as they tend to harden with time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T19:13:09.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18341" CreationDate="2015-07-10T20:03:06.210" Score="4" ViewCount="3034" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dashboard in our car recently started warping around the passenger side airbag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned about airbag deployment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple way to fix it before it gets much worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW5Wn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dashboard warping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y7KLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dashboard warping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use a sun shade on hot, sunny days but it doesn't seem to be helping much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used (carefully) my car key to push it back down while the dashboard is hot and flexible but it just comes back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11233" LastEditorUserId="11233" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T20:44:18.630" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T18:00:30.553" Title="Dashboard Warping" Tags="|ford|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18340" CreationDate="2015-07-10T20:54:47.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it is delaminating from its support structure. You could possibly take the air bag out and glue the surface back to its support structure. You'd need something like Gorilla Glue and a boat load of tape to keep it down while it is curing. You'll want to do it soon, though, before it gets too warped. Once it's too far out of shape it won't stay down, or it will be really ugly when you do get it stuck down (with a bunch of ripples through it). Ensure you give the glue plenty of time to dry before you take the tape off or it will pop right back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T20:54:47.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T21:24:13.613" Score="4" ViewCount="2684" Body="&lt;p&gt;The belt which I can see when I open the car bonnet seems to be new, but my friend says that is not the timing belt and it can not be seen from outside. The car is a Honda accord 2003 V6 which I am planning to buy, with 99K miles. The dealer says he has no idea if the belt was replaced. Is there any way to check if the timing belt has been replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T08:52:19.230" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T05:56:11.470" Title="Determine age of timing belt on a 2003 Honda Accord before purchase" Tags="|honda|accord|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18328" CreationDate="2015-07-10T21:25:59.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason the intake valves show more carbon buildup is because in most fuel injected engines (newer direct injected engines excluded), the fuel injector fires right at the back of the intake valve. This means some of the fuel gets stuck on there and you get a build up of it over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @elmerfud said about the exhaust valves is spot on. They are cleaner because they are baked clean from the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, since direct injected engines pushes fuel directly into the cylinders, there isn't any fuel to collect on the back of the valve. Some of the manufacturers are seeing issues with this because the valve is &lt;em&gt;too dry&lt;/em&gt;. This can cause wear which wasn't there when the fuel was present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T00:30:26.240" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T00:30:26.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2343" CreationDate="2015-07-10T22:26:17.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My belt just broke on my vw 1.8t and it bent valves, Most of the time your just going to need a valve job and timing belt, in other cases, the head can crack, valves blown through top of motor, pistons split or crack, etc. All depends, nothing always breaks the same, theirs always some difference in failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11235" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T22:26:17.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T22:39:45.247" Score="0" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a weather app or screen related for Ford Sync MyTouch with Nav installed.    GM OnStar let you get radar overlays while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - SOLVED  - It was Under Sync Services.  After I clicked the Weather option it went to the nav screen with a radar overlay.   This appears to be related to sync and Sirius.  My Sirius subscription says &amp;quot;weather&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - After 5 years my Sirius Weather Subscription ran out.  Now my weather overlay is gone on my maps.  It looks cheap for just the weather service from Sirius.  It is not part of the music monthly price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11236" LastEditorUserId="11236" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T00:36:13.557" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T00:36:13.557" Title="Ford Sync MyTouch Weather" Tags="|ford|sync|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18252" CreationDate="2015-07-11T00:10:07.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my bike, with the clutch out I have locked the rear brakes, though the engine didnt stall. Is this lugging it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11179" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T00:10:07.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18342" CreationDate="2015-07-11T00:15:17.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of what I believe your engine should look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QudL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red arrow should be what you are seeing. This is the serpentine belt which drives the accessories. The green arrow is the cover which inside is where the timing belt lies. There is no real way to tell if the timing belt has been changed. After a couple hundred miles of running on the engine, it no longer looks fresh, so you couldn't really even tell by pulling the cover. As I'm sure you've been told, in most cars the timing belt should be changed at 60k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any engine you are unsure of which does not have a complete maintenance history, changing out the timing belt is the first thing I'd do. If you don't and it breaks because it hasn't been changed on time, you'll then have a very expensive paper weight (in most cases). If you are buying 99k mile car without the maintenance history, change the timing belt right off. Better to be safe then sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T00:15:17.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8899" CreationDate="2015-07-11T00:15:42.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coil pack failures are very common  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check to see if the snorkel after the mass air sensor could has a crack or rip in it. Introducing of air after the sensor will create the no power condition. And lastly if its turbocharged the turbo might have locked up and perished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11237" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T14:58:31.470" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T14:58:31.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18327" CreationDate="2015-07-11T01:00:29.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the secondery ingnition system. It is getting damp and is missfiring at ether the coil. the wire or spark plug boot or even a cracked spark plug itself. The next dry night spray a fine mist of water at these componets when its running and you will see the high energey arc or spark at the point of High Kv leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11238" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T01:00:29.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-11T04:56:57.973" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am smelling fumes inside the cabin of my 1999 Eurovan, enough to cause headaches and make me feel sick. It has happened before and seems to happen when the car has been working hard, AC has been running, and we are in stop and go traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken it in twice to my mechanic who has tested for fuel line leaks and looked around for the issue but not able to find the issue. It seems like the smell is coming from the front of the car near the driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening the windows doesn't seem to clear it when it is happening and but once the car cools down and the car is aired out, it may not happen again until the conditions are right. Unless, it is actually happening on a low level on shorter trips and I am not noticing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how can I prove that there are fumes inside the cabin, with a carbon monoxide detector perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then, if they exist, how do we figure out where it is coming from? If it is an exhaust leak, how do we find it? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11241" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T09:33:33.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T12:50:14.440" Title="1999 Eurovan fumes in cabin" Tags="|vw|euro-van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T18:23:11.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18354" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HlU8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is most notably used to reinforce composite materials, particularly the class of materials known as carbon fiber or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon-fiber-reinforced_polymer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;graphite reinforced polymers&lt;/a&gt;. Non-polymer materials can also be used as the matrix for carbon fibers. Due to the formation of metal carbides and corrosion considerations, carbon has seen limited success in metal matrix composite applications. Reinforced carbon-carbon (RCC) consists of carbon fiber-reinforced graphite, and is used structurally in high-temperature applications. The fiber also finds use in filtration of high-temperature gases, as an electrode with high surface area and impeccable corrosion resistance, and as an anti-static component. Molding a thin layer of carbon fibers significantly improves fire resistance of polymers or thermoset composites because a dense, compact layer of carbon fibers efficiently reflects heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increasing use of carbon fiber composites is displacing aluminum from aerospace applications in favor of other metals because of galvanic corrosion issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In automotive applications, carbon fiber has been used in wheels, brake rotors, hoods (bonnets), trunk (boot) lid, fenders, and anywhere a manufacturer wants to lighten the vehicle, yet provide increased rigidity. Carbon fiber has even been used for the entire frame of a vehicle in high end applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18355" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" Score="0" Body="Material made from sheets of nano-fiber technology." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T13:58:41.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18356" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford.com/technology/sync/?ef_id=VaCdSwAABFeY4JEn:20150711043627:s&amp;amp;searchid=67223314|2244899914|13710830&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SYNC lets you use your voice to make a call, listen to music, voice-control, select apps with SYNC® AppLinkTM and much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Voice-activated SYNC technology also helps you keep your eyes on the road and your hands on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Upgrade to SYNC with MyFord Touch and enjoy many 63 of the great SYNC features, plus enhanced capabilities. An intelligently organized screen features four quadrants that help keep you connected while you keep your eyes on the road and your hands on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Upgrade to SYNC 3 and enjoy all of the great SYNC features, plus our next generation of voice-activated technology. New easy-to-use design.&#xA;  New interface. New features. SYNC 3 is not only new, it's responsive and innovative. Discover how SYNC 3 delivers next-level connectivity to your busy life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18357" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" Score="0" Body="Ford produced in-car electronics device. Sub-categories include MyFord, MyFord Touch, Applink, and Sync3." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:09:57.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18358" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFzwK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (General Motors) Pontiac Solstice is a small 2-seater sport car design. It shares it's platform with the Saturn SKY and Opel GT. It's production run was from 2006-2010, though only 30 vehicles (to include all variants) were produced in 2010 before production was shut down. These last vehicles were used as corporate and evaluation cars, then later sold at auction to the public. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Solstice came with two &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ecotec&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ecotec&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ecotec&lt;/a&gt; engine options: 2.0L and 2.4L. Both are inline four (I4) cylinder, Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) engines. There was also a 2.0L twin-scroll turbocharged version for the GXP (2007-2009) which produced 260hp/260lb-ft, which at the time was the highest horsepower to cubic inch displacement motor GM had produced (2.1hp/ci). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" Score="0" Body="Pontiac (GM) vehicle produced for the 2006-2010 model years." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:31:38.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmqId.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgZur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This category covers a large amount of different types: riding, self-propelled, walk behind, etc. Many different manufacturers make these: Honda, Craftsman, Cub, John Deer, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are a plethora of engine manufacturers out there, the predominant engine used in mowers in the US are Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton branded engines, though Honda has a good following as well. Engine sizes can range from small (3hp and below) up to large (20hp+). This is all dependent upon the needs of the mower and the design the factory has put forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18361" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" Score="0" Body="Predominantly a gasoline powered, bladed machine used in the process of cutting grass." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T14:40:04.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:11:57.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it's a purchase item: &lt;a href=&quot;http://chryslergroup.navigation.com/zidE00000776209/en_US/ChryslerNA/USD?ProgramUUID=m7QK5GXJxcIAAAFNAjtsT8Rl&amp;amp;utm_campaign=CHRYSLERVP30515&amp;amp;utm_medium=DM&amp;amp;utm_source=CHR-DM1-VP3-0515&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Look Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if it were me, I'd mount my smart phone on the dash and use it. The ones which come with the vehicles become out of date, then you need to purchase the map updates, whereas Google updates their maps all the time for free. It's neat to have it on the dash, but why pay for it if you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T15:11:57.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18371" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:31:00.397" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the timing chain on my 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at timing chain sets, there are about three different price points: &lt;strong&gt;$60&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;$170&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;$250&lt;/strong&gt;.  In the $170 and $250 sets, a &lt;strong&gt;needle thrust bearing&lt;/strong&gt; is included and I assume that means the cam sprocket is already machined to accept that, i.e. I don't have to machine the block.  The $60 sets do &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; include a needle thrust bearing or brass bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/3_9v6.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, my stock engine (which I will be keeping stock) has a roller cam.  I thought with a roller cam you were supposed to use a needle thrust bearing and cam button.  On O'Reilly's, there is no thrust plate listed either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absence of a bearing in the $60 sets has me wondering if my stock engine does not use a thrust bearing.  Is there one that I'm supposed to reuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need to purchase a timing set with a needle thrust bearing?&lt;/strong&gt;  Can this be generalized to other people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not asking about single vs double rollers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I sprang for a nicer manual and it includes a torque specification for a thrust plate so I guess my truck has one.  Does that mean using a cam sprocket without a bearing or bushing is acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T17:31:29.423" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T01:42:36.283" Title="When to Use a Timing Set with a Needle Thrust Bearing?" Tags="|dodge|parts|dakota|timing-set|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:54:50.280" Score="5" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife hit a curb in my 2012 Subaru Impreza and there is a small tear in the tread. Do I need to replace all 4 tires or can I just replace 2? I was told that I may have to replace all 4 tires because it is all wheel drive and to do otherwise may damage the transmission, but the person was not sure. The tires are less than a year old and it seems like such a waste to replace all 4. Is it necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SH2S0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire tear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was doing the penny test I noticed a second tear in the sidewall so the tire need to be replaced for sure. And unless I'm doing the test wrong it looks like the tread is low anyway so I'll probably replace all 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11246" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:22:23.207" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:22:23.207" Title="Torn tire tread and sidewall on Subaru Impreza" Tags="|tires|subaru|impreza|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17871" CreationDate="2015-07-11T17:26:41.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found anything which definitively states one way or the other on the EGR valve for SKYACTIV-G technology. What I can tell you is the purpose of the EGR and because of that why the technology itself would not cause the demise of the EGR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EGR or Exhaust Gas Recirculation is a technology which was introduced to limit temperatures during combustion. The way it does this is by introducing metered amounts of spent exhaust gases (6-10%) back into the intake stream where it replaces oxygen. Since spent exhaust gases cannot be burnt again, it limits how hot the combustion gases can get. A major part of the intake air charge coming into the engine is nitrogen (~75%). If combustion flame front temperatures extend to 2500°F range and above, nitrogen oxides (NOx) formation increases dramatically (NOTE: do not confuse nitrogen oxide with &lt;em&gt;nitrous oxide&lt;/em&gt;), which in effect are burnt nitrogen molecules. Any NOx molecules which do form are reduced in the catalytic converter which has a section specifically designed for such use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of the SKYACTIV-G technology is to reduce the chance of detonation (pinging or pre-ignition) at the higher compression ratio, the use of EGR will help in this endeavor by making the air/fuel mixture a little harder to detonate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tidbit I found was that EGR is required on all &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CB4QFjAAahUKEwif-py4xNPGAhXCDZIKHVtkCLk&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwps.prenhall.com%2Fwps%2Fmedia%2Fobjects%2F6955%2F7122251%2Fppts%2FChapter37.ppt&amp;amp;ei=MEmhVZ-iGsKbyATbyKHICw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGzbhUY1kFG4nUz1ZGzIfRA8crivg&amp;amp;sig2=VD_x1h9cumykgeGvnOq1gA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.97653015,d.aWw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-II controlled engines&lt;/a&gt;. Because of this, I would bet Mazda could not eliminate the EGR at all, at least for vehicles which are for sale inside the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tidbit I found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286007-i-am-looking-at-buying-a-mazda3-skyactiv-what-do-you-guys-think&amp;amp;s=0bf49122c108082c63e674f266251840&amp;amp;p=5191964&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post5191964&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;xtremesystems.org forum&lt;/a&gt; where the guy is saying removing the EGR on the SKYACTIV engine won't help much, indicating to me it actually has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T17:26:41.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9768" CreationDate="2015-07-11T17:32:57.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As all 4 tires are same in your car all rotate at same speed(particular condition) they also brake at similar speed but it you use smaller tires at rear they will rotate at comparatively at higher speed causing faster wear for tires as well as brakes(your car is not having Disc at rear) so I would recommend you to stick to originals and other reasons are stated as others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11247" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T17:32:57.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18364" CreationDate="2015-07-11T19:11:11.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9128/57&quot;&gt;What I said over here&lt;/a&gt; might apply to your situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... a mismatched tire won't break your drivetrain immediately. It's more&#xA;  subtle than that: at least one differential will be loaded all of the&#xA;  time and at all operating speeds. So, instead of managing the&#xA;  different rotation speeds in a relatively low speed turn, you'll be&#xA;  cooking your differential at highway straight line speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your situation might not be the same.  Here's how to tell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How bad is the tear?  Did it chip one of the tread blocks?  Or is it effectively through the tire and causing a leak?  If more that a chip and less than a tear, how worried are you?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How worn is the tire?  How much tread has been used up?  Can you even tell that the tires have been used?  Or can you see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all of Lincoln's face&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, if you are talking about super worn tires, you should replace the set.  If they're barely touched, you might be able to get away with just replacing the one.  Somewhere in between, you might be able to replace the front pair.  You're going to have to make the call.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should listen for the audible symptoms of a stressed differential:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you can hear the differential being overworked if you listen for it.&#xA;  On my Subaru, if I inflate the rear tires to match the front tires'&#xA;  pressure (approximately 4 psi up), I'll hear a distinctive&#xA;  high-pitched whine from the center differential every time I coast&#xA;  down from speed in second gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said before, my WRX and your Outback are not the same car.  However, the vehicle will try to let you know if there's a real problem prior to total system failure....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T19:11:11.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18364" CreationDate="2015-07-11T20:38:08.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SH2S0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire tear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was doing the penny test I noticed a second tear in the side wall so the tire need to be replaced for sure. And unless I'm doing the test wrong it looks like the tred is low anyway so I'll probably replace all 4. Thank for all your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11250" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T20:38:08.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18363" CreationDate="2015-07-12T01:42:36.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thrust bearing which is listed in some of the kits is a &quot;nice to have&quot;, but isn't needed every time. They do not normally wear out, so replacing them is probably on a case-by-case basis. I'd take a look at the old thrust plate and see if there is any galling on it. If so, then replace the plate and the needle bearings. If it looks good with minimal wear patterns (you will see &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; wear marks), I wouldn't worry about it too much. Replace it if you want to at this point. It definitely won't cause you any harm to change it out, regardless. If you feel it may be an issue in the future, replace it now while you have the engine apart, as it's a lot easier now then having to tear it all apart again later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T01:42:36.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18378" CreationDate="2015-07-12T05:16:47.860" Score="4" ViewCount="5961" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've just learned how to take valves down and I'm pretty fascinated by the whole mechanism. I got a C-clamp compressor and took two valves out just to try. Went smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A question: is it important to keep the order and put each valve and other parts in its initial spot? Or can I reinstall them randomly? Because keeping track of positions takes more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xFfN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzUS8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPIpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:46:25.990" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T07:09:36.917" Title="Should I care about valve order or are they interchangeable?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T08:49:09.023" Score="6" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently purchased a 97 t bird and brakes went to floor but had the front drivers side lock up under a emergency stop. I add fluid but see no leaks so it's got to be going somewhere but was thinking brake booster or master cylinder. I read that when a booster goes bad it's the opposite, the pedal is hard to press. And recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T23:34:43.017" Title="97 thunderbird brakes" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T10:16:52.060" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mercedes C200 and the other day the brake pedal stayed down while I was driving. It did come back up a little as I carried on home. I haven't driven the car for a day or so. then this morning I was going to take the car to a garage to look at it and the brakes were OK. then just as I pulled back in my drive the brakes felt a bit wrong again, but not with the pedal staying down. could i need new pads. or is this the servo or master cylinder. I would like to be able to find a diagram of the system so I know what hose is going to the servo and others. If any one has one please post it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11254" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T13:13:57.913" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T13:13:57.913" Title="brake pedal staying down. Then ok after a few days being stood" Tags="|brakes|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18454" CreationDate="2015-07-12T11:41:20.303" Score="9" ViewCount="176669" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying gasket maker at my local auto-supplies store some time back, I was unsure about whether or not the color of the tube made any difference. The only thing I could see was a different temperature rating on the tube itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I chose black because it had a higher temperature rating than red, but was concerned because the relevant forum was suggesting to use grey RTV for timing cover reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do the different colors signify?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other colors that I am not aware of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is operating temperature the only differentiating factor? What about properties like cure time and water/oil resistance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there automotive applications where I should use only one type of RTV and not others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T13:56:40.170" Title="Red vs black vs grey RTV - what's in a color?" Tags="|gasket-maker|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18373" CreationDate="2015-07-12T13:27:43.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;em&gt;It absolutely matters&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these parts need to go back into the same spot in the same positions for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sympathetic wear - Let's just say &lt;em&gt;parts get used to each other&lt;/em&gt;. Once they have been meshed together for a long time, they are broke in together and work together. When you mix-n-match after the fact, unexpected wear can occur. Ultimately part failure is a distinct possibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Along the lines of the first, but more important, is the valves are lapped to their seats so they seal properly. If you mix and match, the valves &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;will not seat correctly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Some of them might, but most of them will not. You &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; lose power and you'll be tearing the engine back down to do it all over again. If you have mixed up the valves, you'll need to lap them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me just say, keeping track of valve positions is a lot of work. Not keeping track of them is a great deal more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T15:40:10.977" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T15:40:10.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18381" CreationDate="2015-07-12T13:40:23.210" Score="6" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 1:42 in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/BW8sBXTUZYE&quot;&gt;S62 production video&lt;/a&gt; the engine assembler uses a pump-style tool to fasten the plenum cover nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this tool called? How does it work? Can it be used to loosen and fasten nuts, just like a ratchet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T13:58:02.453" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T09:19:00.960" Title="What is this pump-type nut fastener called and where is it useful?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18385" CreationDate="2015-07-12T13:50:50.990" Score="3" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took my car ( 99 Nissan Almera ) in for a pre-inspection check and the mechanic said both struts have to be completely replaced because what appear to be rubber / plastic dust shields at the top of the struts are torn up ( these are called boots? ).  He did not do any kind of inspection beyond just looking at the torn up boots and citing them as the reason for replacement.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Local law requires the boot to be whole and in place, regardless of the condition of the strut / shock absorber&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the struts seem to be working fine to the extent that the car drives very smoothly and there doesn't seem to be any excessive bounce when going over speed bumps and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked the chrome shock absorber shaft for oil, and it seemed mostly dry, with maybe a barely detectable film on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bounce test and it went up once and settled, without too much noticeable oscillation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the struts need to be completely replaced because the boot / dust shield is torn up, or can just the rubber boot be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shock_and_strut_boot~pop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructions for replacing the shock / strut boot&lt;/a&gt; - so apparently it's possible, question is if it's worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of the two front struts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OAih.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Passenger&amp;#39;s Side Shock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mr7CJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Driver&amp;#39;s Side Shock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T18:33:28.463" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T18:42:56.797" Title="Do I need to change these struts?" Tags="|nissan|shock-absorber|almera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18379" CreationDate="2015-07-12T14:25:44.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a ratchet screwdriver to me. With an attachment to drive nuts. Used to quickly apply fasteners for low torque applications. Here's a Link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightinthebox.com/t201-bh-automatic-spiral-ratchet-screwdriver_p1206094.html?currency=AUD&amp;amp;litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&amp;amp;litb_from=&amp;amp;adword_mt=&amp;amp;adword_ct=58594442956&amp;amp;adword_kw=&amp;amp;adword_pos=1o1&amp;amp;adword_pl=&amp;amp;adword_net=g&amp;amp;adword_tar=&amp;amp;adw_src_id=1156612465_332350276_18395257636_kwd-110780213356&amp;amp;gclid=CPrl8oXk1cYCFcOXvQodQGwJRw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ratchet screwdriver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My father used to own one and I loved playing with it when I was a kid. They can be used to tighten or loosen fasteners. When you push down on the handle, this motion causes the head to rotate thanks to the grooves in the centre shaft (the criss cross you can see in the pic).  The sliding button also shown in the image is used to set the rotation. (Three levels, clockwise, anti-clockwise or fixed). Fixed operates like a regular screwdriver - manually twist the tool to fasten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcJ0k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UcJ0k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image from link&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://litbimg8.rightinthebox.com/images/384x384/201403/itwvtl1395998574072.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rightinthebox.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9255" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-02-27T09:19:00.960" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T09:19:00.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18414" CreationDate="2015-07-12T16:08:49.923" Score="3" ViewCount="6253" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took my 99 Nissan Almera in for a pre inspection check and they put it up on the lift one thing we saw was a redish fluid leak from the steering column area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They indicated to me that it was serious and a big job to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone clue me in to what might be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two pictures.  This first one just shows the power steering reservoir ( passenger side - filled to about maybe 1/4 inch from the top ) and the hose where I saw the leak from the top.  I tried to outline in red:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SM8Lt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the same hose from underneath.  I circled a big drop of red fluid hanging on the hose, and also the screw on the clamp holding the hose to whatever it's connecting to in the back of the engine has red fluid on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH07H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the following on an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.almeraownersclub.com/threads/faqs-phase-info-and-common-problems-96-00.15547/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;almera owners club&lt;/a&gt; site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Common problems/What to look for when buying your Almera&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Power steering fluid leak:&#xA;  If your power steering is running low, or you find a leak on your drive that isn’t oil, chances are it’s the power steering fluid leaking, something that seems to be a common fault on N15’s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The leak occurs on the offside where the front metal cooling pipe meets the rubber flexi pipe, and just needs the broken bit shortening and a new clip (jubilee etc) sticking on! Job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T18:13:44.930" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:19:14.120" Title="Fluid Leak Near The Power Steering Pump" Tags="|nissan|power-steering|leak|almera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-07-12T17:22:14.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 1985.5 Volkswagen (VW) Vanagon which has a 1.9L H4  with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine seals that are known to fair early and often with phosphate-containing coolants&lt;/a&gt;.  The partially-redesigned 1986 2.1L engine speicifies use of phosphate-free as well to address this issue, but there was no apparent redress of this 1980-1985.5 models.  I'm taking my recent cooling system maintenance back to have the unofficial but a correct coolant replaced because some stupid imported coolant amortizes to a whole lot cheaper than a head gasket job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt; Prestone's arrogant, misinformed advice is wrong by counter-example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T17:22:14.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18380" CreationDate="2015-07-12T18:42:56.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the basis for the replacement of the strut is really up to two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How old are the current struts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If old, can you afford to replace them, or is just replacing the boot more economical for you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the struts are the original struts which came on the car, it may not do any harm to just change them out. To change out the boot alone will incur pulling the entire strut assembly, dismantling the strut assembly, replacing the boot, re-assembly, re-installation, and alignment. It will be almost exactly the same if you replace the strut itself. The main difference in cost will be strut v. boot. Here in the States, struts usually aren't that expensive. It's the labor involved in replacing them which makes up most of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought here is &lt;em&gt;how bad of shape are the boots actually in&lt;/em&gt;? If you wanted to, could you use some zip ties and reattach them to where they need to be? This is just an errant thought, so take it for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T18:42:56.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2015-07-12T19:07:20.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assumed they were for noise reduction, but I haven't noticed much difference with mine off. Since its usually warm to hot where I live I would prefer to have some airflow over the upper intake components, even if it's a small %. Of course when the weather starts to cool again I'll put it back on to make sure the engine warms fast, so as not to get a mil light for engine temp to low. Also its convenient when you working on problems to not have it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11259" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T19:07:20.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6951" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:34:35.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had the same issue on my 2004 Honda . Before replacing the starter, take a look at the ground strap on the starter itself. Mine was corroded . Cleaned it with sandpaper and put some rust / corrosion inhibitor on it and it has been working fine. Hope this saves someone from buying a new starter unnecessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11260" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T21:01:57.633" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T21:01:57.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18389" CreationDate="2015-07-12T21:38:44.950" Score="9" ViewCount="14746" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer - 4.3 L Vortec V6 (vin W with PCM)&lt;/strong&gt; - 230,000 miles original owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, this model car/engine does not have timing chain inspection and/or changing as part of the routine maintenance schedule like cars with timing belts.  According to GM, the timing chain is supposed to last for the &quot;life of the engine&quot;.  However despite this, I realize that at 230,000 miles, the chain could very well be worn out and need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is a followup to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18225/11163&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been chasing down a rough idle condition, and after eliminating just about every other source of this, I've come down to slack in the timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine idle has improved greatly after putting the timing to factory spec (0 TDC w/ timing computer wire unplugged) and installing a brand new distributor.  However, it's still not quite there&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; and I'm trying to evaluate whether or not to change the timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no doubt that the chain is stretched out and I'm trying to accurately measure that.  Roughly, based on a visual inspection (rotating crank while looking at rotor), I'm thinking about 5-7 degrees.  This estimate already takes into account the play between the distributor/camshaft gears.  I'm trying to find a helper so I can get a more accurate measurement on the balancer itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the engine timing using a timing light, here are my observations under two very different conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The computer timing wire disconnected:&lt;/strong&gt; I did not expect to see any advance on acceleration from idle, yet my timing light shows a timing advance.  This model does not have counterweights or vacuum advance.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The computer timing wire plugged in:&lt;/strong&gt; The timing mark seems to jump around. I would expect the computer to advance/retard timing smoothly with engine acceleration, not jump back &amp;amp; forth. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the amount of movement is the same... visually estimated to be close to 1/2 inch.  The balancer is 6&quot; diameter so that's roughly 10 degrees. There can only be slop/play in the distributor gear and/or timing chain that would explain the two observations above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, any timing chain will gradually stretch/wear over time. What is an unacceptable amount of chain stretch or play?  At what point does changing the chain become critical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1995 GM S-10 Service Manual says that if the chain has &lt;em&gt;&quot;more than 5/8&quot; of side to side movement&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, it should be changed.  However, if I take off the timing cover to measure this, then I might as well just change the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:  Following the procedure posted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on this website&lt;/a&gt; from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18389/11163&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the photo below, using the timing tab built into the timing cover would not yield an accurate measurement.  So I clamped a steel plate to the power steering mount, which gave me a straight edge for making very accurate reference marks.  (&lt;em&gt;In this photo you can see that I've marked the timing groove and timing tab with white chalk&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1oxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://s18.postimg.org/bzauk6aqh/IMG_5957.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then following the procedure as posted in the answer, I rotated the crankshaft clockwise while observing the rotor moving.  I stopped and scratched a starting reference mark.  Then while my helper observed the rotor, I slowly turned the crankshaft counter-clockwise, stopping exactly when my helper observed movement, and I scratched another mark.  You can see these two scratch marks in the photo below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNSvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diameter of the balancer as measured by caliper&lt;/strong&gt;:  6.125&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calculated circumference of the balancer&lt;/strong&gt;: 19.2422&quot; (6.125 x π)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;19.2422&quot; divided by 360 degrees =&gt; 0.05345&quot; per degree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measured distance between the two marks is 3/16&quot; (0.1875).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(0.1875&quot;) divided by (0.05345&quot;/degree) =&gt; &lt;strong&gt;3.508 degrees&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I repeated the procedure several times in different places on the balancer and always came up with 3/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining roughness in the idle was finally tracked down to a loose heat shield that was intermittently shorting out the spark plug boot for cylinder #4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T20:06:57.210" Title="Acceptable amount of slack in a timing chain with high mileage?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|ignition|timing|s10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18388" CreationDate="2015-07-12T21:48:34.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will see about three to five degrees of &quot;reverse motion&quot; before the distributor begins to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure this, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a socket which fits the front balancer crank shaft bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a breaker bar which is long enough to turn the crank using it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the distributor cap off so you can see the rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the crankshaft clockwise around until you are at Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder #1 (on the SBC and Chevy V6, this will be at the 0 timing mark). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; It is important you do not turn the crank past TDC then back (counter-clockwise) as this will mess up what you are trying to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When ready, turn the crank backwards (counter-clockwise) &lt;em&gt;very slowly&lt;/em&gt; until you start to see the rotor move. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observe on the timing tab the amount of degrees which the crankshaft has moved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-5° is normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T21:48:34.743" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18391" CreationDate="2015-07-12T21:58:22.693" Score="3" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike got tipped over by a random person, handlebar got bent, and throttle is really hard to move now so I decided to try to take it out to see what I could do. Here is a picture of the bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bsPe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see where it's bent, and I wanted to know is there any easy way to unscrew the bar to take it and get it unbent, or should I just unscrew it and replace the whole bar at the fork&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T22:21:58.333" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T04:58:33.563" Title="Yamaha fz700 handlebar bent" Tags="|yamaha|throttle|handling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18390" CreationDate="2015-07-12T22:30:28.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know for sure, but would bet your best option is the last one. I know straightening tubes of any sort is a &lt;em&gt;very hard option&lt;/em&gt;. There should be an Allen head bolt which is clamping to the forks. You don't want to take the fork loose if you can help it, as getting alignment back right could be a huge pain in the butt for the uninitiated. If replacement is not an option, I'd suggest you find a very large vise and heat the bar until you can bend it back into shape. I doubt it would ever get completely straight again, but you could get it pretty close. Your easiest/cheaper option would be to find one online from someone who is selling parts. Though this may be one of the first things which would go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:30:28.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2015-07-13T07:32:17.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would definitely want that larger filter in an application where the vehicle is being used for heavy construction.Most cars won't see any measurable benefit by going to a larger filter.The size of filter that can be used is probably limited by the engine design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10728" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T11:23:34.400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T11:23:34.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18406" CreationDate="2015-07-13T08:56:14.523" Score="4" ViewCount="19841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a car mechanic so please excuse my ignorance but... my manual Saab 9-5 has increasing problems starting.  The symptoms are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the ignition the lights on the dashboard come on. Sometimes there is just complete silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I can hear the start motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the car actually starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite often I have to try it five of six times for the engine to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken it to a garage who replaced the starter motor but this did no good so I would like to be informed the next time I take it in to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastEditorUserId="1115" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T09:13:48.410" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T11:36:27.697" Title="Saab 9-5 has problems starting" Tags="|starting|saab|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2015-07-13T09:30:59.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following could be the reason for your car not starting, based on the symptoms you have stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car does not crank at all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drained/Dead battery ,Try Jump starting the car, if it starts then it can be the battery, the electrical come on since they don't use as much electricity as the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the cable ends which connect the starter and the battery, more specifically ,remove the cap ends at the battery and clean them , then install them back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the ignition coil, this one is a bit tricky , you need to check if the spark plug is producing any spark at all by removing and checking it,  If you are not able to do it on your own ask someone to help remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T09:30:59.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2015-07-13T09:53:17.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;sometimes cranks, sometimes starts&quot; description sounds like there are two issues present at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommended strategy would be to address the intermittent cranking &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;. Intermittent starting could be something as simple as a bad battery as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18396/675&quot;&gt;Anarach explains&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With intermittent cranking, the culprit could be a bad starter motor but since this has already been replaced (presumably with one that is new or in working condition) the issue is likely elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the symptoms described, there seems to be trouble with sending current to the starter motor. Here are two possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Starter relay&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could well be that the solenoid inside relay is sticking, preventing the switch on the starter side from closing and turning the engine over. This would explain why sometimes you do not hear the starter relay click (complete silence).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad &lt;em&gt;ignition switch&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ignition switch isn't completing the circuit to the starter relay, the car won't start. I'm a little skeptical that this is an issue given that the dashboard lights come on when the key is in the 'On' position but it is a distinct possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend testing the starter relay first before looking further upstream for potential issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T10:00:50.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18364" CreationDate="2015-07-13T10:41:52.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a measuring tape and wrap it around your tires. Then wrap it around one of the potential new tires. If the circumference of the new tire is within 1/4 inch (6mm to 7mm) of the others, don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have a bit of luck looking at the local classifieds section. Sometimes people sell off tires with a good bit of tread left on them when they buy new alloys or a set of performance tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T10:41:52.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2015-07-13T11:20:40.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freon is Dupont's trade name for R12 and requires a license to purchase and R134a is Suva. R134a is NOT Freon! Cheapest route is have a professional perform a leak test to determine where it's leaking. It may be as little as a $2 seal leaking and you just pay to have it replaced, the whole system vacuumed down and new refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11266" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T11:20:40.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18302" CreationDate="2015-07-13T11:27:38.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm betting your Jag is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth operation by putting an ohmmeter on the leads. You may also try tromping on it a couple of times with the engine off. If you want to send reset the CPU, you need to let it sit for ~30 mins to ensure the residual power is gone. This is the first thing I would have tried as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for what parts are on your car, I found your car is DBW. This is the likely place I'd look for an issue, as this single part tells the computer what speed to run the engine at. It takes the driver input. If it's seemingly telling the computer you want to have the engine run at 4k, the computer will oblige, especially since it's not beyond the redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T11:27:38.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18364" CreationDate="2015-07-13T12:57:04.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK we have tyre fitters that specialise in Part Worn tyres.  If you have similar in your local area then it would be worth asking them to measure your remaining tread and see if they have a suitable replacement tyre instead of having to buy a full set.  That's certainly what I would try first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T12:57:04.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18460" CreationDate="2015-07-13T12:58:50.320" Score="14" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to diagnose problems with conventional analogue electrical circuits, such as lights, speakers, heated rear windows, etc, as well as short-circuits and unexplained current draws, it can be difficult to track down the exact source of the problem. What is the best way of doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T07:17:14.733" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T22:20:47.520" Title="How do you test analogue electrical circuits?" Tags="|lights|fuse|electrical|multimeter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18403" CreationDate="2015-07-13T12:58:50.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To track down and troubleshoot electrical issues, you will almost certainly need a multimeter (also known as a Volt-Ohm meter) - digital ones are best, like the one illustrated below (from Wikipedia) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsSQz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fluke Multimeter, courtesy of Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get cheap ones, which are fine for most automotive stuff, or much more expensive ones with all sorts of clever features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most useful things for car work are the DC voltage setting (The V with solid and broken lines above, at 10 o'clock on the above picture), and the continuity tester setting (the sound-wave and ohm symbol at 12 o'clock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing for voltage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check whether a circuit has failed, one of the easiest ways is to see if 12v appears when it is turned on. I'll use the simplest example of a light that isn't working. Set the meter to DC Voltage, and switch it on. Remove the bulb, and switch on the circuit. Hold the red lead on the meter to the contact in the bulb holder. At the same time, hold the black lead to a clean, metal part of the car (for example, the engine block) - a 'ground'. If the circuit is working, you should see '12' (or something near, e.g. 11.9 or 12.1) on the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can demonstrate this easily by touching the red lead to the battery terminal, and again touching black to ground - you should see between 13.5 and 14 volts for a normal, healthy battery. Alternatively, for a safer demonstration, touch the leads to either end of a domestic 'AA' type cell - this should read around 1.5V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing for continuity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know a circuit has failed somewhere, you then need to work out where. You have two options for this - either keep working back along the circuit with the meter as above, or test each section for continuity (or, more usually, both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test for continuity, set the meter in continuity mode, and touch the leads together - you should hear a beeping or buzzing, and see a low number on the screen (e.g. 0.0001) - this means there is a low resistance between the leads. Separate the leads again, and the buzzing will stop and the screen will usually show '1' on the left hand side - this means there is no connection between the leads. Hold the leads either end of the part you want to test (e.g. to the two terminals of a bulb) - if the circuit is complete, it will buzz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common Faults&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain failures that commonly occur with automotive circuits...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Earth faults - Probably the most common, and often intermittent. Most circuits earth (ground) through the bodyshell of the car, and the points where they join can corrode, resulting in a poor connection. These can be checked by using the meter in continuity mode, between the earth side of the component and a clean part of the bodyshell.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Internal faults - for example, bulb holders no longer making good contact with the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch failure - Switches can fail internally, causing contact to become intermittent, or fail completely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Relay Failure - As with switches, these can fail internally&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broken wires are rarer, but not unknown, especially with circuits that pass through the doors, such as electric windows, central locking and power mirrors, as the wires passing into the doors are flexed every time the door is opened, and can fatigue and fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a lot of modern cars also have loads of ICs, buses and computers controlling everything, but they're a subject for a different question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More on using a Multimeter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sparkfun have a guide on using meters, with loads of pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guide!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aimed at hobbyist electrical stuff, but the principles are the same here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T12:58:50.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2015-07-13T13:04:13.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the car it's hard to know but it actually sounds to me like the ignition switch is beginning to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T13:04:13.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2015-07-13T13:50:11.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 93 and have had what sounds like the same problem, that is the ignition turns on but when the key is turned further to start the engine it does not always crank the engine. In my case it was the ignition switch and being one not to through money away I took it all apart and cleaned the switch contacts and it's been fine for the past four/five years. Replacing the switch is a lot easier and you can keep the same keys. I can't see it taking longer than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been already stated, the ignition switch failing is a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11269" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T13:50:11.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18412" CreationDate="2015-07-13T14:55:18.737" Score="5" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small amount (less than a gallon) of gasoline that's been in a can for two years. It has oil mixed in for 2-stroke engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The can sprung a leak and rainwater leaked inside. Probably only a teaspoon or two, but I can't know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to get rid of it? Should I burn it off? Can I just mix it with more gas and use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a good, unorthodox solution. I stored my gas cans in an unlocked shed in my back yard.  Someone came by and stole them!  Your mileage may vary :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4869" LastEditorUserId="4869" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T01:14:00.020" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T01:14:00.020" Title="Old, oily, wet gasoline. What to do with it?" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-06-11T15:04:48.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18409" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:10:15.523" Score="2" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand, valve lapping is done to ensure a seal between the valve and its seal ring at the end of the shaft.  I am just curious how valve lapping compound facilitates that?  Does it make a chemical reaction with the metals on both ends to help mold them in shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:45:02.940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:45:02.940" Title="What does valve lapping compound actually do?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18408" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:23:20.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve lapping compound is an abrasive. As you rotate the valve and apply pressure towards the seat, you are wearing both valve contact face and valve seat at the same time. This action makes both surfaces match each other exactly, which when valve spring pressure is applied, allows the valve to completely seal with the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:23:20.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18415" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:43:07.480" Score="1" ViewCount="13191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think lapping valves using one of those suction cup sticks is hard and there must be better ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is what I was thinking.  I was thinking to get a really thin (medical or engine) hose that the valve stem will fit into as a male into a female and the hose will hold it tight.  On the other side, I would stick a drill bit (that is on a drill) that is the same or similar size as the valve stem into the hose just like I did the valve.  The hose should be as short as possible for accuracy and the only reason to use it because the drill mandrel will not reach the end of the valve.  Then you spin the valve using the drill and hose rather than manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you verify if this idea is feasible and will not damage anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T02:37:03.287" Title="Lapping valves with a drill" Tags="|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:06:21.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to your local waste / recycling centre and leave it with their oils disposal section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It you have a suitable multi-fuel heater you could burn it in that but I wouldn't simply burn it itself or use it in a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:06:21.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:10:50.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try to mix and re-use as you are not sure how much water is in it. If there is too much water this can damage your engine. It's not a lot of gas. $2-$3 is not worth risking possible damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to properly get rid of it, check with your local recycling centers to see if they accept old gas. Or just burn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:10:50.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:31:05.580" Score="0" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Honda Odyessy wont start. All I get is a clicking sound coming from underneath the hood and the light do not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11270" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T16:45:26.550" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:28:07.773" Title="Honda Oydesssy wont start" Tags="|honda|starting|odyssey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:43:47.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the top picture, the round thing which is to the bottom right of the image looks like the power steering fluid reservoir. In the bottom picture, this looks like the return line (what you have annotated), which should be attached to the reservoir. You need to clean/inspect these areas to see where your fluid is coming from. If just the connection to the reservoir, it could just be you need to reposition the hose clamp to get the leak to stop. It could also be a stress fracture to the reservoir itself. Or thirdly, your return hose could be worn out. The silver colored (or aluminum) fitting (in the second photo) with the banjo bolt going through it (and hose attached to it) should be the high pressure side. It looks dry as you want it to be. This is actually a good sign in this case. The high pressure side hose is a bit more expensive than the return hose. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:43:47.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:51:26.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attempting to do this will very likely damage the valve seat, valve itself and potentially the valve guide.  Lapping is about finely honing the seat and face together.  Power tools at this stage and in this method will introduce greater chances for error.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a better way than lapping valves by hand, it's call doing a valve job.  You recut the seats, and resurface the face of the valve. Properly done with precision machine tools you will not need to lap them to get a proper seat, or only minimal lapping.  There are many tools and attachments for doing valve jobs.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If doing a hand lap is very hard it could be that the valves or seats are damaged to the point where that's not the correct fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:51:26.863" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:03:14.227" Score="5" ViewCount="6192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Chevrolet Impala LS with approximately 80,000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; front door power locks are not working properly when it's very warm out, especially if we're parked in the sun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife first noticed it because the remote fob wasn't working for the driver's door. I did further testing and confirmed that using the switches on the inside of either door also present the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once every 3-5 minutes, I can use the switches to either lock &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; unlock the front doors. After that, they stop working until I wait again, as if they've lost their charge. At first, when they're not working, I can see the locks shake as the motor moves but they don't go up or down. Continued attempts are silent: you can't hear or see the motor trying to work. After the few minute wait, the front locks work fine, once, as if there is no problem at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicions about this being heat-induced have been confirmed, because this problem now occurs every day the outside temperature is above about 80° F, and less if in direct sunlight. There has also been at least one time when it spread to affect one of the rear locks when it was especially hot. &lt;strong&gt;Knowing heat exacerbates the issue doesn't, however, help me source the issue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is a motor issue, as the motor works fine when it seems to have power. Outside of that, I don't know how to troubleshoot where the problem is occurring. I have read that there are wiring issues common with GMs around this year model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I troubleshoot and/or diagnose this issue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details on what &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All other power features work fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Door, lock and power fuses are fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear doors are 100% unaffected and fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually moving the locks works to  correctly lock/unlock the door. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the key in the driver's side door works to unlock the driver's door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition on/off doesn't affect the issue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I swapped out the power lock relay in the console fuse box with another working one, with no effect. Relay seems to be working fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you hit the indoor switches once, with a door open, they do not lock immediately. This is a feature of the car, and normally works fine. However, with my problem, if there isn't a &quot;charge&quot; the locks won't lock after the normal 30 seconds or so, but they &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; lock after the 3-5 minutes, as if the lock order had been queued until power was back to the switches. When it finally activates, all locks successfully lock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if the key is not in the ignition and one door is open, when you press the lock button sometimes the console will chime, and  nothing else happens. This is not the typically warning chime from locking your doors, but more like the console alert chimes such as &quot;wiper fluid low&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11271" LastEditorDisplayName="user11271" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T17:59:24.530" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T08:09:02.567" Title="'08 Impala Front power locks don't work properly in hot weather" Tags="|locks|impala|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18413" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:07:51.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking sound on cranking is usually a strong indication of a weak battery that needs replacement. This is also corroborated by the fact that the lights don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle can be jump-started it will confirm that the battery isn't charged. Have the battery tested if this is the case and replaced if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T17:07:51.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34976" CreationDate="2015-07-13T18:36:54.593" Score="6" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within the last year the '1' and '4' preset buttons on my radio stopped working - at first you could play around with them &amp;amp; moosh them a little harder and they sometimes worked, but now they seem to be completely dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can live without the preset buttons, except that we recently had a new starter put in, and the radio now needs to have its security code put in, which is done with the preset buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some other way to enter the code, or to bypass it somehow?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have the 2006 Odyssey with Navigation &amp;amp; Leather Seats package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I have the radio out and I took off the front controls - I can't see how to detach the circuit board from the black housing, though.  After removing the 9 smll screws from the back of the circuit board, it seems like the three round control knobs on the front ought to pull off, but they're really on there tight.  Does anyone know whether I just need to pull with more force, or is something else going on?  Here's a picture of the knobs I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAOwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;radio control panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there's an outside chance that the failing buttons were caused by a loose ribbon cable connecting the control panel to the radio body, because when I detached the control panel, one of the ribbons was loose.  But that's probably just because I yanked it loose while disassembling - there's no latch keeping them in, just the friction of the ribbon cable connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: yeah, I just needed to pull the knobs with more force:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qip3s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got the circuit board off, I could see the switch components.  They're through-mounted normally-open tactile switches, and they seem to be sealed to the elements, so I sort of doubt they've gotten dirty contacts.  I tested them out with my multimeter (easy since they're through-mounted) and all 6 preset switches do seem to be functional - sometimes they seem reluctant to fire, but it might just be my meter probes not making great contact with the solder.  In any case I don't think I'm going to de-solder these things and put on new ones, that's a little above my pay grade.  I might just put the whole thing back together (tomorrow - it's late!) and see whether maybe I get lucky &amp;amp; the ribbon cable was just loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Well, I blew the connections &amp;amp; buttons off with compressed air, put the whole thing back together, and the 1 &amp;amp; 4 buttons still don't function.  So I guess I'm going to look for a front-electronics replacement panel to stick in.  Maybe I'll put in an iPod connector while I'm at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help &amp;amp; advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastEditorUserId="4071" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T01:58:35.123" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T21:24:35.260" Title="2006 Honda Odyssey: input radio security code with broken buttons?" Tags="|honda|audio|security|odyssey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18394" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:23:34.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank position sensor under the exhaust manifold will die every 60-100k and cause this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11274" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:23:34.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18413" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:28:07.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery is good, and the lights do not work, it may be the &quot;fuseable link&quot;. A short lead close to the positive terminal. If this is blown it requires looking into. If it is loose or not plugged in you should be OK. The Starter relay does not depend on this, but the car will not run without it. I would expect it to crank though, so maybe you have a short somewhere or the starter is on the way out. Try having someone tap the starter with a broom handle to &quot;encourage it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:28:07.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:50:23.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the maximum capacity of the leads. You should use the highest you can bear to carry or purchase, simply because the resistance should be lower (theoretically) and they will sustain a short circuit for slightly longer before melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we speak of current, it is not the leads we worry about, it is the load we are putting on the &quot;source&quot;, typically a charging circuit can supply 30A at capacity, and some batteries around 1000A. In reality when we jump a car, we are charging the local battery and the current required drops off as the voltage rises, and then surges again upon cranking. You should probably not be running a modern car without a functioning battery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:50:23.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18403" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:04:53.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add to Nick's answer and mention a Circuit Tester if you need to simply test the circuit for power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:04:53.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:08:50.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CV joints will clack. Wheel bearings will grind, often only in one direction.&#xA;CV joints will also have lash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:08:50.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T21:38:06.293" Score="2" ViewCount="35337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually brake with my left foot when driving a car with automatic transmission. I find it easy to switch between right-foot and left-foot braking if needed (for example, if I need to drive a car with manual transmission), but generally left-foot braking feels more natural and comfortable to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I've been told that the practice of left-foot braking can harm the gearbox in case one accidentally steps on both pedals at the same time, and thus that I should always only use my right foot for both pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since nothing like that has ever happened to me, I am wondering -- is it an actual concern? How likely is it to step on both pedals by accident, and is the harm to the gearbox in this case really significant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To clarify - I am not asking about the pros and cons of left-foot braking, or about harm to various mechanical parts under wrong use (I have learned advanced driving, and I think I am aware of them). I am specifically interested in the situation I asked about in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11277" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T11:38:35.580" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T01:47:36.757" Title="Pressing on gas and brake at the same time by mistake - How harmful is it to the gearbox?" Tags="|brakes|automatic-transmission|braking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18428" CreationDate="2015-07-13T22:10:25.977" Score="2" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the car tax (VED) system in the UK, as I'm considering buying a new car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering, are CO2 emissions always proportional to the MPG figure of a car, both in theory - from official (i.e. impossible!) figures - and in real life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:37:24.453" Title="Are CO2 emissions proportional to MPG figures?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2015-07-13T22:42:04.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do the same thing until I heard that most people (99%+) when encountering a panic situation will press both feet to the floor, resulting in full throttle and full brakes.  This will, of course, decrease the effectiveness of the brakes and cause considerable stress on the transmission.  I switched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T22:42:04.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18425" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:37:24.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eta.co.uk/2010/02/22/calculating-a-cars-co2-emissions-from-its-mpg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; they say you can figure out the amount of CO2 emissions per km based on the fuel mileage, I'd suggest they are saying the rate of emissions is proportional to the MPG (given their constant). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense to me because there are so many carbon atoms in a gallon of gas. When burnt (correctly), the CO2 emissions are going to be constant. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/faq.cfm?id=307&amp;amp;t=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;About 19.64 pounds of carbon dioxide (CO2) are produced from burning a gallon of gasoline that does not contain ethanol. About 22.38 pounds of CO2 are produced by burning a gallon of diesel fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, that is directly proportional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be the book answer. It would also indicate the vehicle which is being tested is running perfectly. If, on the other hand, it isn't running perfectly, you could possibly have a much higher rate of carbon &lt;em&gt;monoxide&lt;/em&gt; (CO) being emitted, which would mean your CO2 levels would be lower. As long as the vehicle is running correctly or the catalytic converter is keeping up with output, the level of CO2 is constant and therefor can be measured from the MPG of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:37:24.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:49:33.170" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QLU6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I removed the transmission from a 2006 nissan maxima and have a 2 3/4&quot; metal ring with teeth pressed into it and I don't remember where it goes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11280" LastEditorUserId="11280" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T00:32:21.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T00:32:21.583" Title="2006 Nissan Maxima transmission" Tags="|transmission|part-identification|maxima|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2015-07-14T00:02:07.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason it &lt;em&gt;feels more natural&lt;/em&gt; to you is because &lt;em&gt;that is the way you do it&lt;/em&gt;. It was beat into me from Driver's Education &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;never use your left foot to brake&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. To me it feels natural to &lt;em&gt;not brake with my left foot&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://safedriving.wordpress.com/2012/03/03/left-foot-or-right-foot/&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; I just read about using your left foot to brake from a driving instructor. In the article he basically says things I was thinking. There are a couple of points he makes in the article I want to point out. This is directly related to when he was instructing his students to use their right foot to brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We do emergency braking in a controlled environment at Young Drivers of Canada so I had the student apply the brakes with their left foot when I suddenly commanded “STOP!” at a specific speed and location. I measured their stopping distance and then had them try it again with their right foot applying the brakes. Their stopping distance was hugely improved. I never had to remind them again about only using their right foot on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is doesn't have very much &lt;em&gt;empirical&lt;/em&gt; data in it, it rings true for the following reason (as he goes on to say):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main difference for an improved stopping distance was their left foot was able to counter balance their weight transfer so they had more pressure to apply into their braking. If your left foot is placed up against the firewall of the vehicle, it can allow you to push yourself back in your seat. That will then allow you to press harder against the brake pedal in an emergency. Sit in your vehicle while parked and try this. You will automatically feel the difference in leg strength when you apply the brake this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you probably don't think about is a lot of people who use their left foot to brake actually keep their foot on the brake pedal. If you do this and think you are not causing issues, you are sadly mistaken. When you keep your foot on the pedal, you are &lt;em&gt;riding the brake&lt;/em&gt;. This does the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wears out your brakes faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Causes you to have worse gas mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Causes undue wear and tear on your drivetrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't believe you're putting any pressure on the pedal by resting it there, you are utterly wrong. The reason I know you are wrong is because not a person in the world is going to be able to keep their foot in the air (off the floor) for any long length of time without fatigue. When fatigue sets in, you rest your foot on the pedal. I have fairly long feet and know I could not rest my foot on the floor &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; have it in a position to brake at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T00:02:07.380" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18446" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:10:36.820" Score="2" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving home car is working normally, driving at a constant speed then out of the blue heard a small thud then a rumble, after that the car had a problem where the acceleration was weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaching a large hill the car looses momentum a struggles to keep momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car sounds noticeably louder and deeper while running, and while accelerating it rumbles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look around the car and underneath to see if I can spot anything a miss. The only thing I can see is below on the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passenger Side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sICdj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VW Passat 2.8 underbody exhaust&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIo56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VW Passat 2.8 underbody exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers Side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14gto.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VW Passat 2.8 underbody exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11282" LastEditorUserId="11282" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T15:37:34.527" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T16:38:34.930" Title="VW Passat 2.8 4motion b5 - Lack of Acceleration" Tags="|vw|acceleration|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:39:51.553" Score="4" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda stopped running, so I took it to a shop to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs and put in a new battery. The compression is excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it still will not start. It cranks but will not start. Any ideas about the issue will be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11283" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T07:22:12.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T16:22:17.063" Title="2002 Honda Civic not starting" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18390" CreationDate="2015-07-14T04:58:33.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to need to take that off.&#xA;Can't see from your picture, but usually there's one or two clamp bolts and maybe a positioning bolt running vertically (maybe from the triple clamp area to the clip on mount)  After this it looks like you can just take it off the top of your fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the only damage in that area is the bend (see possible vertical bolt mentioned before)  You might try bending it back yourself, if there's no kinks in the tube and the bend isn't bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise i'd be looking to wreckers for a spare, or maybe even a set of after market ones (replacing left &amp;amp; right so they are the same)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with your searching.... you're looking for a &quot;clip on&quot;... handle bars normally go from left to right, whereas the clip on (which you have) is clamp bolted to the top of the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T04:58:33.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18436" CreationDate="2015-07-14T06:40:36.560" Score="3" ViewCount="3296" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the power steering pump on my vehicle has a slow leak, what are the implications?  Is it a safety hazard?  Will it cause the failure, catastrophic or other wise of itself or other parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T20:17:58.477" Title="Implications of a Leaking Power Steering Pump" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T07:51:28.660" Score="-1" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1990 Oldsmobile regency My headlights no longer work all of a sudden. My brights still work fine. Why did this happen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the window up/down button on the passenger side no longer works too. I don't know what's going on please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T02:32:12.783" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T02:32:12.783" Title="How much does it cost to fix headlights and window up/down button?" Tags="|headlight|wiring|power-windows|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-14T18:35:45.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2015-07-14T09:26:13.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no fluid in the power steering rack then you can see the following symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound of metal on metal contact on turning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough steering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy steering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Implications:&lt;/strong&gt; There is no immediate threat to the car if your fluid is leaking , it will not do any harm to the car but it will cause massive wear on the steering rack as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However Driving without adequate fluid levels will definitely destroy&#xA;  your pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other issues:&lt;/strong&gt; In some cars the leak from the fluid might go inside other components and indirectly resulting in failure(though not common depends on make of the car) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix the leak if possible. &#xA;If not, check if the leak is slow , if its not massive leak then you can top up the fluid intermittently whenever you find time , this not permanent solution, can work if you want to travel long distances and you are in need of cash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caution:&lt;/strong&gt; If your fluid levels are low then do not hold in full lock on either side of the steering as it puts massive pressure on the pump( basically dont hold it after turning full left or right for long)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T09:26:13.043" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18538" CreationDate="2015-07-14T09:49:21.010" Score="5" ViewCount="3341" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my auto gear honda fit gp1 hybrid car,  (mileage 56 000 KM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a engine tune up and changed my injectors (8 injectors) last month and after 2 weeks i started getting a slight knock (jerk or shaking). i remember i have had this once or twice in the last 6 month but it wasnt noticeable and looked like to be as a miss. anyway, now everyday morning when i start the car and drive for like half and hour or hour, it goes smooth and nice. and then in a while it gives the knock. (the time is not fixed, some days in 45 minutes, and some days in 30 minutes and sometimes in 20 minutes after first starting to drive it comes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knock is like, when i stop at a traffic light and accelerate it comes. it only comes after a break or a stop and accelerate so it comes in low speed. then when driving with the knock, it gets a bit worst and knock (jerk or shaking) goes up, when i drive a little more it becomes more worse. then when i stop for few hours and start back then knock (jerk or shaking) is less and smoothness is bad. so i figured out this is something to do with a heat. when one of vehcile's part becomes very hot it gives the knock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so i went to a small mechanic and as advised changed my Gear box oil (ATF). it didnt fix the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then i took it to Honda company by when i got a check engine light and they told to run without the EGR valve, then i did it that and noticed that knock (jerk or shaking) is 50% less but car is not at all smooth. (it takes too much power and was hard) i felt so when driving.  then they told to clean it the EGR and drive as the Honda company diagnosed EGR valve is causing trouble. after cleaning it didnt work, so as they told i changed the EGR valve which costed around 500$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then my vehicle was super smooth and very very comfortable to drive. later after few hours of driving here comes the same knock (jerk or shaking). which confused me. apart from that the honda company told this is not a problem with gear box, (which means they told its not a judgger)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then i took it back to my local bass as he suspected it can also sometimes cause with fault fuel pump. then i changed that too. still the issue is not fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after having a small internet research i found this is a bit common issue, but only issue is finding the exact issue is difficult. Now i am confused what to do, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Company told they will need to remove the transmission and see in the worst case. some times if its a damaged flyweel it can happen. so before taking it to any place to repair i just want to get an experts advise here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should check in to these things to ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark Plug Wires or Spark Plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ignition coil | coil packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;motor mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flywheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catalytic Converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really really appreciate any feedback that will help me to sort out this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: The company also told me that not all issues will have an error code that can be read through obd 2, electrical issues will be displayed but not mechanical as they told. is that correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i had a fuel pump change as well, but still the issue is there, please can somebody advise as what to do ? really appreciate. can this be a gear box issue with a burnt flywheel ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i had a test drive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car was started it went super smooth, after a while like 15 mins. the shaking came back when i stopped at a traffic and accelerated when green lit. (please note the shaking comes only when accelerating from a stop (when going from zero - 10/20 kmh).  its not shaking when i am holding the break or its not shaking when the vehicle is idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then at almost every stop light, when i accelerated it came. and when i took of the leg from gas pedal and pressed again, it went but not smooth as early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then at 60 speed i noticed RPM at 3 and car was like going in gear 1 or 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then at 80 speed also i noticed RPM at 3 and car was like going in gear 1 or 2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after that vehicle was back to a drivable state but shake was there still after a stop or break when accelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody provide some advice based on my latest information please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday i had a injector clean at honda company and they told its all fine. when i started to drive the car today again the bucking or knocking came up and car wasnt smooth as before. when eco mode was on it started to knock or buck a little more. i think A/C also has a connection to this. when AC was off and ECO mode was off. knock was less. so i turned it off and drove but still its annoying to drive. its dancing like a horse when starting at a stop light. can this be related to eco system in gp1 and EGR valve? but today i noticed when the egr valve was disconnected just 1 hour ago, car wasnt smooth but knock or buck didnt come which came while i was driving and half a way i stopped and disconnected the EGR Valve and continued and found no problem. i know its not good to drive without egr valvue so i connected it back after checking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can the problem be with EGR valve sockets ? because the EGR valve i have put is from a second hand vehicle but a less mileage and it looked almost new. i would say no carbon. so is there anything else connecting with EGR valve like the socket that connects EGR valve and the engine ? what is EGR Passage ? should i clean that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what problems will i have if i remove the EGR valve and drive, i got a engine check light once so didnt want to drive with that removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got it confirmed that its a problem with CVT Gear Box, a past automobile engineer at honda found the issue. he took a long drive with me and he changed parts with a another same running vehicle. in the start gear of CVT something is wrong and he suggested to get the gear box replaced. replacing is better than trying to fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was also a problem with a injector and coil, so he fixed it and vehicle is smooth now only the knock comes once in a while. (which will go away once the gear box is replaced)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9059" LastEditorDisplayName="user9059" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T04:35:16.987" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T12:00:43.850" Title="Honda FIT GP1 HYBRID 2011 knock" Tags="|engine|honda|automatic-transmission|egr|knock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18442" CreationDate="2015-07-14T10:11:47.060" Score="9" ViewCount="67678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2012 Subaru Sti&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been driving turbocharged cars for a while now and I have blatantly accepted that before shutting down you must let your car idle for a few minutes after driving hard to allow the turbo to cool down. This process will allow you to extend the life of your turbo, however, I must say I have not heard of any scenarios where the turbo on these cars actually gets damaged by not following this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any set rules on how long you should let your car idle after driving hard (i.e., keeping the turbo in boost, revving up passed 6000 rpm)? Is letting your car idle before shutting down an effective method for cooling the turbo? I have also used a turbo timer at one point, it may be useful to point out where this device has strengths in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:33:32.420" Title="Do you really need to cool down your turbo after hard driving?" Tags="|subaru|cooling|impreza|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-14T15:29:32.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18435" CreationDate="2015-07-14T10:13:24.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both headlights cease to work at the same time, this leads us to the idea that the fault is probably not in the bulbs, but in some part that is on a common path between the electrical supply and the lights. Some points you could take a look at are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuse! This is probably the easiest explanation. Take a look in your fuse box (often under the dash, between the driver's legs and the door). Most fuse boxes nowadays have a guide of which fuse serves which circuit, otherwise your car's user guide should also have a diagram.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your car is equipped with a relay to control the headlights, that could also be at fault. However, this is used mostly for upgraded lights, and I doubt a standard setup will have one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The headlights switch. Sometimes, this degrades due to use and needs to be replaced. The fact that the long beams comes on means one position of this switch still works, but perhaps not the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say your power windows have also failed at the same time. This could also very easily be related to a blown fuse. So my first stop in diagnosing this would definitely be the fuse box. If it is just that, then you are lucky since fuses are cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T17:50:55.670" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T17:50:55.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18438" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:16:17.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, otherwise parts of the turbo such as bearings can go bust and will need replacing. After hard driving, just drive your car slowly/calmly for a few miles. This will let the turbo cool down and because the engine is still on, the various turbo parts will still be lubricated whilst the turbo is cooling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following post may be of some use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/5212/11074&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/5212/11074&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T11:16:17.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18438" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:26:40.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As they say, you need to let the turbo spool down as it spins excess of 100,000 RPM while doing this oil is used to lubricate it, if you shut it down immediately there are high chances of oil residue forming on the turbo lines and clogging it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most modern turbochargers do not need(while driving in the city) such cooling down period as such since this was true in case of old cars since they didn't have water cooled turbos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still not advice shutting down a car after a drag race immediately , idle 15 seconds or so might do the trick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In everyday driving most people don't rev their engines so hard to create maximum boost all the time , so you don't need to wait for 15 seconds every time you have a short drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T11:26:40.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18438" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:33:03.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have to do that. Your turbo heats up to around 900 degrees Celsius under hard driving conditions. When you shut off the car, You suddenly take away the heat source and the ambient temperature falls to around 95 degrees Celsius (the normal operating temperature for a Subaru that has been driven hard). This causes the turbine housing to experience thermal shock. Now granted, it would take a long time for this thermal shock to actually cause damage, but you're probably reducing the turbo's life by putting it under stress unnecessarily. If you let the car idle for a minute or so, you allow the exhaust gas temperatures to gradually go down to 700, 600, 500, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example to support what I said:&#xA; 1. When a cast iron manifold is welded (turbine housing is cast iron too), it is recommended to toss the whole thing into a fire and let it burn out overnight so that the manifold cools down gradually to prevent stress points from forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, it's not necessary to let the car idle if you simply drive normally for the last 2 or 3 miles before you shut off the engine. Just never shut the car off &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; after doing a hard pull. E.g. when the cops pull you over on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this video to see how hot a manifold (and by extension the turbo can get):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud4xAH3g6u0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vxr glowing manifold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T12:33:32.420" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:33:32.420" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18450" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:56:07.600" Score="1" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;What power steering fluid should be used with a 1999 N15 Nissan Almera GX 1.6L GA16DE engine?  I've read that many modern vehicles can't use ATF and need specific fluids specified by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found this site which sells fluid and lets you look them up by model and it lists the 1.6L 99 Almera &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.europarts-motorfactors.com/lubricants-fluids/steering-fluids/Nissan/Almera/all/1.6/1999/Parts.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as using ATF for steering fluid&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I trust this site and is there more than one type of ATF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T18:19:14.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:29:16.600" Title="What Power Steering Fluid to use with a 99 Nissan Almera?" Tags="|nissan|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18432" CreationDate="2015-07-14T12:19:48.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a standard transmission, check &lt;a href=&quot;http://s639.photobucket.com/user/RonJ_HT/media/picture_5078.jpg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the clutch pedal ignition switch&lt;/a&gt;. The switch may be bad or the rubber plug on the clutch lever may have deteriorated and the lever does not depress the switch. This happened on my 93 Civic and cost me $0.50 to get the new plug for the clutch lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/hon_mnrelay_tst.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EFI relay&lt;/a&gt; Oten times the solder points in the relay go bad. This also happened on my 93 Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11287" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T12:19:48.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18447" CreationDate="2015-07-14T12:43:26.247" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, there are two types of AC compressors for my '04 Dodge Stratus SE, 2.7 liter 6 cylinder engine, and I need to know which one I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried looking on a parts store, but I couldn't get past which of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SE -- V6 - 2.7L vin R 167ci 2700cc type EER - MFI GAS DOHC&#xA;SE -- V6 - 2.7L vin T 167ci 2700cc - MFI FLEX DOHC&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it was. How do I distinguish them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11288" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T20:13:41.320" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:13:41.320" Title="Correct AC Compressor for '04 Dodge stratus SE 2.7L 6cyl" Tags="|ac|dodge|parts|stratus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18431" CreationDate="2015-07-14T16:20:08.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, it sounds like your catalytic convertor is shot. If the honeycomb within the converter shatters, it creates a hug obstruction within the converter. The back pressure this creates will not allow your engine to rev to its potential. This really shows up when trying to accelerate. Depending on where the hole in the exhaust is, you may be able to see up into the cat and be able to check its condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; You can test your cat by lightly tapping on it with a rubber mallet. If you hear things shifting, the internals are shot. Don't be beating on it, though, as this will cause it to self destruct! Just hit it hard enough to listen. It should be self evident very quickly as to its status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T16:38:34.930" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T16:38:34.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18445" CreationDate="2015-07-14T16:27:58.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you can tell by the vin. It appears to be asking engine code - that's the eighth digit. See if it matches the R or T shown in the part description there, and that should give you your answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T16:27:58.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T16:55:39.543" Score="1" ViewCount="8997" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me how to remove rear brake drum from a 2011 VW Jetta? I can't tell if it should just pull off or does the center hub nut need to be removed. Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11294" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T17:02:57.240" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T15:50:41.033" Title="2011 Jetta rear brake drum removal" Tags="|brakes|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18448" CreationDate="2015-07-14T18:07:49.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is anything like the old VW Golf II I ran way back when -and, judging from the photos on the Internet, it does seem identical to all intents and purposes- you will need to take out the split pin and castellated hub nut in order to remove the drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem a quite fiddly job, though, with the various springs and wedges that need to be set correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T18:07:49.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18443" CreationDate="2015-07-14T20:29:16.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that ATF should work just fine. That is what is specified for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:29:16.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T20:36:06.887" Score="5" ViewCount="54897" Body="&lt;p&gt;2011 Honda CR-V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The D3 light randomly illuminated. What does it mean and what did I do to cause this? (I was doing regular, local driving--nothing new or unusual.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11297" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T20:43:53.000" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T02:49:44.417" Title="What does D-3 light mean and why did it randomly illuminate?" Tags="|honda|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18451" CreationDate="2015-07-14T20:54:03.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if the below image below helps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrMc4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would indicate your transmission is in direct drive. Usually this happens if you have inadvertently switched off the overdrive or have put the gear selector in the wrong position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the owners manual at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2011/CR-V/manuals&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honda Site&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:54:03.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18448" CreationDate="2015-07-14T21:08:33.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is what your rear drum looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HN0lu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There probably is a Torx head screw in the &quot;6th hole&quot; (smaller hole located at about 2 o'clock in this photo). All you should have to do is remove the Torx screw and ensure the e-brakes are not engaged. If the e-brakes are too tight, you may need to back them off mechanically. You should be able to find an adjustment slot for them in the back of the dust cover. After that, it should come off, though may take a little persuasion to make it happen. The hub which sticks through the center may be rusted somewhat to the brake drum. If so, a little lubrication may help. Then more persuasion. You should not have to take the hub off to service this, even if you can get to the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T21:08:33.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18377" CreationDate="2015-07-14T22:55:08.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since every manufacturer can use whatever color they want to create their flavor of gasket material. RTV or &lt;em&gt;Room Temperature Vulcanization&lt;/em&gt; sealants come in many types, colors, flavors, and work to seal for many different occasions. Also remember that each manufacturer may utilize the same color for &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; means. Black sealant is &lt;em&gt;very commonly used&lt;/em&gt; in the manufacture of sealants. This just adds more to the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I have empirical evidence of such, but I believe Permatex is &lt;em&gt;most likely&lt;/em&gt; the preeminent maker of RTV gasket maker. They have a whole list of other products as well, but the sealants they make &lt;em&gt;do work pretty well&lt;/em&gt;. I'll use their colors scheme to describe the differences and when they should be used. Ultimately, though, it comes down to &lt;em&gt;reading the package&lt;/em&gt; as to if the product you are looking at is right for your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permatex has several different &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; of sealants. Most of which are RTV, but some specify use in anaerobic situations where there isn't any air to do the curing. I will try to break out the different types of sealants and how they are utilized:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants&quot;&gt;Anaerobic (color unknown)&lt;/a&gt; - Used where no air will be present after being applied. This product would probably work well for under water situations, such as boat jet drive, or as a temporary fix to replace an o-ring. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gasket Makers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;The Right Stuff (Black)&lt;/a&gt; - This product is for general use and can be utilized almost anywhere and in any kind of situation. It boasts a quick turnaround so you can get your equipment back into service quickly. Many OEM manufacturers use this product on their assembly lines. It is good from -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids, and is sensor-safe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex--the-right-stuff--1-minute-gasket--grey-detail&quot;&gt;The Right Stuff 1-Minute (Grey)&lt;/a&gt; - Specifically designed for high torque situations. Permatex boasts a &quot;torque and go&quot; attitude with this product. This product is specified by many non-US manufacturers. It is good up to 450°F (232°C) continuous; 500°F (260°C) intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-grey-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;The Right Stuff (Grey)&lt;/a&gt; - Basically the same as the 1-minute type. It just takes a little longer to cure and go back into service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance (Black))&lt;/a&gt; - Used in areas where oil resistance is a must. This would be oil pans or valve cover gaskets. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature (Copper)&lt;/a&gt; - As the name implies, to be used where high temps are present. I've used this stuff on my header gaskets at the collector with good results. It helps seal the gasket and helps it last longer as well. This product is good up to 700°F intermittent. It works to seal liquids as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque (Grey)&lt;/a&gt; - Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent. Used where you'd expect to need more flexibility than normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-blue-multipurpose-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Ultra Blue Multipurpose (Blue)&lt;/a&gt; - As the name implies, this is an all purpose gasket material. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent. OEM specified for a lot of different applications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-blue-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Sensor-Safe Blue (Blue)&lt;/a&gt; - General use RTV. Will not foul O2 sensors. ature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail&quot;&gt;High-Temp Red (Red)&lt;/a&gt; - Universal, but can be used in hi-temp situations. Not as high temp as Ultra Copper. Temperature range -65°F to 650°F (-54°C to 343°C) intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-high-temp-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail&quot;&gt;Sensor-Safe High-Temp (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Same as the High-Temp Red, but is won't foul O2 sensors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-water-pump-thermostat-rtv-silicone-gasket-detail&quot;&gt;Water Pump &amp;amp; Thermostat (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Specified where high concentrations of water and glycol are present. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-automatic-transmission-rtv-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Automatic Transmission (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Specified for automatic transmission pan gaskets. Resists tranny fluids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker-detail&quot;&gt;Gear Oil (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Used on differential housings to seal in gear oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gasket Sealers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail&quot;&gt;High Tack (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Used to seal gaskets. Helps keep gasket in place during assembly as well. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-spray-a-gasket-sealant-detail&quot;&gt;High Tack Spray-A-Gasket (Color unknown - Assume black)&lt;/a&gt; - Same as High Tack, but in a spray form.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant-detail&quot;&gt;Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp (Copper)&lt;/a&gt; - Used to help seal such things as metal head gaskets. Not to be used with &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; head gaskets, as some already have sealant embedded into the outer layers. As the name implies, this is a spray on sealant. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is not exhaustive. As you can tell, the same colors (well mainly black) is used over and over again for different reasons. You can also see that there is &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of overlap between the different sealants. One sealant can be used in many different applications. The thing to remember is, some of the sealants &lt;em&gt;work better for certain applications&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to read the package and decide what is going to be best for your particular situation, no matter what brand or color it comes in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T22:55:08.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:19:14.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow the admins advice. You want to use the process of elimination. Its a hydraulic system with seals and it works like a two way car jack. The steering wheel column is simply a big joint and connects directly to it. A wheel as handle bars, the pistons are pushed through a liquid filled tight cylinder, your power steering rack sealed at the rubber end boots. As the fluid squeezes behind the cylinder it equalizes the force removing resistance. Egyprltians once used water. &#xA;Hoses come in all sizes and lengths. Trim it and use some pliers or a screwdriver depending on your clips, buy a new hose, or bring it to a junk yard and find something similar. You also need to make sure that if there's a bleeder valve that it is tight. Look on the ground to see where its dripping from and you can follow that straight up any hoses. I always leave replaced hoses in my trunk for emergency but hopefully you just gashed it with something in the road. &#xA;Power steering pumps if belt driven simply have a belt adjustment. The rest unbolts. But anything removed from the power steering system requires you to bleed the air out of it or you won't be able to turn while sitting still which means you can't get stuck anywhere in between lanes without creating a huge danger .&#xA;The power steering racks has tie rods on each end as extensions to the brake spindle a heavy support which bolts your brake system, upper suspension, and axles together. &#xA;Removing the rack make require taking any and all of these parts off but sometimes lifting the car and undoing a hundred lb. Subframe underneath is the trick. Labor is intense and technically combines screws, pressure clamps, and centimeters of finger movement along with some puzzling to take any shortcuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:19:14.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18459" CreationDate="2015-07-15T06:43:20.900" Score="11" ViewCount="9237" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all let me say that I already read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15221/why-does-diesel-engine-need-a-warm-up-before-the-start-up&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and its answer, so it's clear to me why diesel-powered cars need a warm-up time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: do &lt;em&gt;modern cars&lt;/em&gt; need it too? I have VW Golf VI (year 2009) and I normally leave the system on for a couple of seconds before starting the engine... but am I being too cautious, or does the car &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7824" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T12:24:56.733" Title="Modern cars and diesel warm-up time" Tags="|engine|vw|diesel|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2495" CreationDate="2015-07-15T08:33:29.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily test a relay in a few simple steps. The required materials are as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digital Multimeter (with continuity setting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12V power supply &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) Aligator clips for hands-free testing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT USE YOUR BATTERY DIRECTLY FOR THE 12V SUPPLY, if you have nothing on hand and want to be safe please use a fused line from a harness or through the fuse box and not the battery terminals directly, a 12 V wallwart (dc adapter for powering your typical consumer devices) with the connector cut and leads stripped is a good option as well. Crowbarring a 12V battery is a catastrophe which is scarilly easy to do on a relay with redundant pins and poor pin markings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test procedure is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine relay number and pin out&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect 12 V supply to Control pins on the relay and listen for a physical click (Gross Test). A relay that passes this test will probably be ok, but if you still suspect the relay you can easily verify finer electrical properties by continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect Relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify that all the Normally Closed connections read continuity and low resistance ( a few ohms), verify that all the Normally Open connections read  no-continuity and infinite resistance. The control pins should read a few ohms typically, but refer to the datasheet for the relay. A Relay may click from raw 12V, but a dying relay may not actuate under say ECU drive signal &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reconnect relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify continuity across relevant signal pins (should read at most a few ohms and the DMM buzzer should go off). NO opens should now be closed and NC pins should now be open,  for more complicated relays refer to the datasheet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will verify the actuation of the relay, that a connection is established and isn't degraded, and that the relay succesfully disconnects (no sticking) when unpowered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relay diagram looks generally as follows: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qiyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bouncy line indicates the inductive control element, and the straight lines with the break indicate the signal connections. A relay may have several redundant or parallel switching lines and possibly redundant control lines. This particular relay switches between 87A and 87 when the proper voltage is applied between pin 85 and 86. In this case,for step 4, Pin 30-87A is normally closed (NC) and pin 30-&gt;87 is normally open (NO)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T09:31:04.017" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T09:31:04.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18457" CreationDate="2015-07-15T08:48:09.370" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both a 2004 Bora TDI (Jetta Mk4 in the US) and a 2012 Mk6 TDI Golf.  When either of these cars requires it's warm up system, it will automatically switch it on for the time it needs.  This is signified by the glow plug light illumination on the dashboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87J1k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's up to the temperature it requires, the light goes out and the car can be started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in North East England and see temperatures ranging from 25 degrees celsius in the summer to -8 degrees celsius in winter and only ever see the glow plug light very occasionally on the coldest of mornings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="7824" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T09:37:22.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T09:37:22.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18403" CreationDate="2015-07-15T09:28:25.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Digital Multimiter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAUTION&lt;/strong&gt;: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere setting (take caution when changing setting with probes attached), never use continuity testing on a live circuit unless the device specifically is ok with it. Do not measure Resistance on a live circuit. &lt;em&gt;some tests will require you to have battery on  and others will require you to disconnect the battery&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test Leads and Test Jigs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimum set includes basic contact probes (comes with DMM) and Aligator Clips. First thing to get is 20 ft banana plug extension to extend your probes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A set of automotive connectors with test leads for easy probing would be the next thing to acquire. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Tools that you May Want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OBDII Reader for pulling codes and getting gross sensor data&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CAN sniffer for low level communications testing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oscilloscope for thoroughly verifying electrical signals &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soldering iron to make electrical jigs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all testing, make sure to find, print, and understand the wiring diagram for your car, it will make your life much easier if you can use the diagram to determine the expected connections, voltages, and signals at any node where to find them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Testing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive electrics for Conventional (non hybrid combustion) cars can be broken  down roughly into three domains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Components: Charger, Alternator, Starter, &quot;Power Circuit&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Analog Components: lights, relays, fuses, low current power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer Components: ECU's and advanced sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between Category &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; is that &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; is before the fuse box (directly to battery with fewer protective elements) and &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; is generally fused circuits. Greater precautions need to be taken to avoid crowbarring the battery, whereas a fuse will protect you from mistakes.  Category &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; will require some additional or specialty tools. However, elements of category &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; will have some overlap with &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;, you can verify some very basic functionality without busting out a sniffer (test power supply to components, shorts and breaks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power/Analog Components&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here everything is about long and convoluted harnesses, fuses, relays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the wiring diagram in hand the First stop is to identify the relays and fuses that are controlling or protecting the circuit believed to be at fault. Verify Continuity between connected nodes (e.g. if the fuse for the headlights connects directly to relay, verify - with the battery disconnected - that there is continuity between the fuse panel and relay panel). Verify/replace fuses and relays. Continuity check everything you can to eliminate harness/wiring damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a basic continuity check we can move on to signal verification tests. With the battery connected you can test voltages at key points on the circuit. Relays that are supposed to be on will have 9-12V on the control pin, verify power at the fuse panel by removing fuses and checking the voltages on related pins. Where you expect a voltage make sure you are reading a voltage. You can compare the voltages on every pin of a relay socket with relay installed and relay removed (this is where connector jigs come in handy) , this will help you further narrow the problem search. You can use the wiring diagram to unambiguously determine which circuits should be on/powered with given switch/key positions. Any signal pins that go to the ECU (related to the faulty circuit) should be noted and tested later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functional tests can be performed on most components. Using a 12V supply that is not the car battery you can check relays, pneumatics/valves, lights, fans. etc. by connecting the supply across the relevant pins. Lights will turn on, pneumatics will tick, relays will tock, fans will spin, and pumps will whir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Computer Components&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verifying ECU and sensor functionality can range from easy to complicated. The most basic check you can do is to verify that the power supply lines to these devices have the required voltage (can typically be done right at the connector) and verifying the relevant fuses and relays supplying power to that circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the supply is present then you can dive down the rabbit hole of troubleshooting sensors and computer electronics. The first step is to verify that the device is functioning, this will require looking up the part number determining the signal the device supplies to the ECU. Analog signals can be read using a DMM, digital signals will require a sniffer or oscilloscope. You can also test with a known-good device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor appears to be functioning but the relevant system is malfunctioning the best bet is to take a CAN sniffer (the majority of intelligent sensing elements send their data to the ECU with a shared bus called CAN) and capture the communications data. It may be difficult to interpret the communications, but in general I would suspect the following . &lt;strong&gt;no signal&lt;/strong&gt; - Broken connection, dead/damaged device or ecu. &lt;strong&gt;gibberish data&lt;/strong&gt; (Look at the data sheet for the device to see how it formats data)- Damaged device, digital noise/damaged wiring , corrupt ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T09:28:25.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T09:52:07.483" Score="6" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that an immobilizer has malfunctioned to the point where the adding-new-fobs process doesn't work, but the actual immobilizer is still working? Or is it more likely I'm doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a '93 Toyota MR2 with a factory alarm, and after-market immobilizer. The immobilizer is about 18 years old. I've owned the car for a few months, and when I bought it, it had one master key fob, and one user fob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to wipe the old user fob and re-add it, to ensure no previous owners could disable the immobilizer, so I followed the instructions from the original booklet for the immobilizer. This involved opening doors and turning the ignition on/off in sequence. After a while of trying, I couldn't get the dashboard LED to react in the way the booklet said it should, or even do anything different from it's normal flashing sequence when it's arming and disarming. I gave up for the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I then noticed that the original user fob was no longer working - I'd obviously got far enough through the process to wipe all old fobs. The immobilizer still works, in that you have to present the master fob in order to start the car. However, I still can't get it to program any new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus, since doing this, the alarm now resets itself if you close the doors for more than a minute or so without putting the key in the ignition and disabling the immobilizer. It's possible that this was an issue beforehand, but I first noticed it while trying to re-add the fob, and it does it quite frequently now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11302" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T15:30:31.120" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:11:31.067" Title="Old immobiliser playing up, won't add new transponders" Tags="|toyota|security|alarm|immobilizer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18457" CreationDate="2015-07-15T12:24:56.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesels have never &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; needed it - even on older diesels, they'd still usually start without waiting for the glow plugs.  However it does make it very much easier for the engine, so starting will be easier in adverse conditions (cold/altitude) where otherwise the engine might not catch.  Also you'll find the engine runs rough for a few seconds until the combustion process has got everything up to temperature, which isn't good for the engine long-term and produces a lot more emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11305" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T12:24:56.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:08:36.233" Score="9" ViewCount="24471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Luckily, I drove slowly, about 20-40km/h. When I reached home, I realised that I did not release my handbrake. Will there be a big problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11307" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T14:40:36.857" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T23:04:23.247" Title="I drove my car about 1 km before realising that I didn't release the handbrake. Will this cause any big problems to my car?" Tags="|handbrake|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-16T23:47:36.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:14:19.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find that you have to replace your rear brake friction material sooner than you would otherwise have had to but there should be no adverse or lasting effects so don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T13:14:19.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9822" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:15:04.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a longshot since it only occurs when accelerating, but it could be the rubber hood stops under the hood squeaking. You could try turning them out one or two rotations to see if that stops the squeak, or add some of those furniture foot pads underneath.  This sound is most noticeable over speed-bumps or potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a squeak in my 2011 Frontier that was really pissing me off, turned out to be the hood stops. Research showed this is a common issue for these trucks. Based on the conditions in which your problem occurs, I dont think this is the root of your issue, but giving this a shot will only waste 1 minute of your time and rule out a common source of squeakiness for Frontiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10560" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T13:15:04.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:34:25.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the handbrake was on well enough to stop the rotation of a rear tire(s), you may have created a flat spot on them due to wear. If the tires were able to spin, either adjustment of the brakes need to occur, or possibly replacement of friction material may be needed. If enough heat or wear was generated, replacement of the rotor/drum may also be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T13:34:25.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:38:04.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rear brake should be pretty hot, but I can't see why anything permanent would have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One time I drove home after having my brakes inspected, only to realise the idiot had adjusted my rear brakes in such a way that they never disengaged. I could feel the heat radiating from the rear-left drum. I waited for it to cool, then took it apart and readjusted. Three years later I've still not had a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T13:38:04.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:30:54.833" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this is all based on how hard the vehicle was just driven. More specifically, how heat-soaked the exhaust manifold and turbine housing are. These parts are meant to take extreme heat, however the bearings in the center of the turbocharger and the oil flowing over them are not. In fact, the oils job is not only to lubricate the bearings but to cool by having a constant flow going through them. Many turbochargers also have coolant flowing around the bearings housing for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has been driven hard recently, the manifold and turbine housing are well above their 'normal' operating temperature. If the vehicle is turned off in this state the extra heat in these parts equalizes into the (relatively) cool bearing housing of the turbocharger, which no longer has any oil/coolant flowing through it to keep it cool. The oil still sitting in the bearings can 'cook' and crystallize becoming very abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've been driving casually staying out of boost then the manifold and turbine housing aren't hot enough to cause this problem when the car is turned off. Don't bother wasting your time and fuel idling in this situation, just turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T14:41:32.260" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:41:32.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9822" CreationDate="2015-07-15T15:14:14.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another reason for a squeak when you accelerate would be a busted motor mount, especially on transverse engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, I would check the brakes and hood stops first, as suggested by the other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T15:14:14.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:27:19.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was young my mother drove from Vegas to Orange County CA with the handbrake engaged.  As far as I know it never caused a problem, although she may have had it looked at later without me knowing--I was pretty young.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I'd say no problem if the handbrake still works but it wouldn't hurt to have a look for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11315" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T16:27:19.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18474" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:37:24.260" Score="0" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are my options for removing this broken lug nut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8IP1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T17:45:33.533" Title="Options for removing broken lug nut?" Tags="|ford|wheels|lug-nut|econoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18472" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:36:32.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, depending on your viewpoint), &lt;strong&gt;that is not a broken lug nut&lt;/strong&gt;, but the nut which is formed into the plastic hub cap. Take the hub cap off and you'll see the lug nuts. If you notice, there are seven lugs on the hub cap. When you take that off, there will be eight lugs on the wheel itself. This is a standard hub cap for the large Ford Econoline vans (like 12 or 15 passenger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to fix this at this point is replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of a replacement hubcap.  Notice that it includes decorative lugnuts as part of its design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WmUIl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="3218" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T17:45:33.533" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T17:45:33.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:52:26.127" Score="3" ViewCount="5562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Jetta SportWagen TDI (Mk5).  When I turn on my right turn signal, usually the left turn signal turns on instead.  I'm pretty sure it is a problem in the lever arm.   I can consciously finesse the lever arm and ensure the correct turn signal turns on.  It makes me think there is a loose connection somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This never happens in the other direction.  When I turn on the left signal, the left signal always works as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to auto maintenance, but consider myself to be both electrically and mechanically competent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my intuition that this is the lever arm and not something further downstream sound?  Is it possible that this is a loose connection with the lever arm?  Is there any characteristic I should look for on the lever arm pins with a multimeter that could tell me if it is working properly or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just order a new lever arm now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note: I hear VWs use &quot;triple square&quot; screws in some cases.  Will I need to buy some new screwdrivers for the steering wheel or turn signal arm removal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11314" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T02:02:36.650" Title="turn signal blinks wrong direction" Tags="|electrical|vw|troubleshooting|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18477" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-15T18:54:33.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearings are frequently used on shafts to reduce friction between two surfaces.  In many cases bearings are used on spinning shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a bearing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bearing is a tapered roller bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSe3E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSe3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:54:26.617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:54:26.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18478" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-15T18:54:33.053" Score="0" Body="A device intended to reduce the friction between two metal components moving against each other.  In particular, rotating components against their mounting." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T21:09:28.937" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:09:28.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T19:34:10.140" Score="4" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '78 Pioneer Jet Boat with a Ford 460 Big Block V8 as the power plant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right now it has a Holley carb on it. We just started toying with the idea of converting it from carbureted to fuel injected. We know we'll need a new intake manifold, ECU, etc but we're wondering what might be the cheapest way in going about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I walk over to my local Pick n Pull looking for an old Ford pickup that has a 460 in it and pull the fuel injection system out of that and slap it on my boats motor?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When doing this, what do I need to keep an eye out for? I'm sure EFI intake manifolds might have changed ever so slightly between years. How can I be sure that the EFI system I rip out of the donor will bolt right onto my boats motor?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also after talking to the guy who was working on fuel injectors for me was saying I should try to find a fuel injected vehicle that has OBD-I instead of OBD-II because of sensors, and the lack of a transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T19:34:10.140" Title="Retrofit Ford 460 For Fuel Injection" Tags="|fuel-system|carburetor|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-12-09T19:13:22.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4743" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:26:37.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this stereo has the front face which flips down, I'd suggest the connection between it and the stereo is at fault, not that it needs reset. You'd need to check to see where the connection is made and how it is made, then see if there what issues may be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:26:37.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4842" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:28:42.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though there is a ground fault issue which is corrected when the door is closed. You'll need to check the wiring to see if there a break or partial break in it somewhere in the wiring harness going from the door back into the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:28:42.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5220" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:32:36.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with @mac &amp;amp; @ChrisMcKeown ... one of your sensors is telling your computer one of your wheels has stopped spinning and therefor is activating the traction control. Figuring out which wheel sensor is bad will be tough to figure out. If you don't have the right diagnostic equipment available to you, it will require a trip to the mechanic to get it sorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:32:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6101" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:39:19.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this type of intake manifold gasket, if there is absolutely no damage to the rubber it should be good for reuse. You will need to be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careful with it when taking it off of the engine. Make sure you clean it up and put a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; light coat of clean oil on it before installation. Do not remove it from the intake manifold to do this, though, as you run the risk of damaging it. Only mess with it as much as you need to and no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:39:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6175" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:41:47.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: Since @MikeSaull didn't put his answer down, I'll answer for him)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try pulling the battery cables off for 30 minutes. This will reset the computer back to factory specs and hopefully will solve your issue. Pull the negative battery post off and not the positive, as this can have adverse effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:41:47.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6259" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:45:20.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when I see multiple things going dead and the gauges stop working like you stated, the first thing I think of is some sort of grounding issue. Hard to diagnose ... even harder to track down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:45:20.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6798" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:03:24.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to do this is to have the keys programmed to the car. The only way to do that is to take it to the dealership. They have the necessary tools which are proprietary. Only they have them. Yes, it's a racket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T22:03:24.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6814" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:07:48.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ESP is Electronic Stability Program. It requires the steering wheel angle sensor to work correctly. With it erroring, the ESP may make bad decisions as to your interest in which direction you want your car to go. Your MB may be smart enough to shut off the ESP when there is a problem in the system. If this is the case, or if you can shut it off manually (usually would have to do this every time you start the vehicle), you shouldn't have any issues. This is with the caveat you will need to be more careful in inclement weather as the ESP will obviously not be working and helping you to control your vehicle. Get it fixed as soon as possible, don't do anything crazy in the mean time, and you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T22:07:48.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6259" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:33:46.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer as to why this is happening would be a problem either with the electronics, or with the dashboard itself. If I remember correctly, vehicles from this manufacturer and age relied on several different electronic control units (ECUs) that worked pretty much independently from each other, so it would seem strange that they would decide to go on the blink all at the same time. This can be checked if you have access to a diagnostic computer. Perhaps a friend at a garage could help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the dashboard lights going off at the same time as the aircon seems to point to a problem behind the dash itself. The dash can get a little complex to get off, but if you do go down this path I would be taking a close look at the various connectors, specifically those wire trusses connected to the instrument block and passing nearby the aircon controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T22:33:46.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T22:40:16.133" Score="5" ViewCount="77730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having troubles with my automatic transmission for sometime now mainly it's lost it's smoothness and has been slipping first thing in the morning. I've practically worked on every other component of a car but never ventured into or near a transmission so I don't know where to start. Basically, I shifted into reverse as usual the other day and recently whenever I've shifted into reverse its been a rather rough engagement but this time there was a more decent thud and now reverse is just another neutral gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my other gears work as expected, except it's now more rough going into drive sort of like how reverse was engaging for a while before it finally failed, which is concerning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Have only owned the car for a few months  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Haven't changed the trans fluid or filter or any of that, fluid looks a little light brown but is at the correct level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Right hand outer CV seems to be&#xA;    knocking too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't had any time or place to raise her up and take a look at it all properly but I do notice some fluid on the left hand CV that I can see from above. I've also noticed that it seems to smoke almost twice as much in reverse as it does in drive (usually only when I first start it up on these cold mornings). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that an item called a &quot;vacuum modulator&quot; can fail and suck trans fluid into the inlet manifold and cause the car to smoke white which is what it does in reverse, but as I say transmissions are not anything I've looked at before so I can't confirm or deny that. I'm planning to have a proper look on Sunday, if any photos would help please let me know and I'll take some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a rebuild manual for the transmission and all other related components I grabbed so that should hopefully help too with any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Year:   1997&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make:   NISSAN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model:  PULSAR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colour: White&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Submodel:   CJ II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body Style: Saloon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine No: GA15-458374 (GA15DE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chassis: FN15-458374&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission: RL4F03A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="10834" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T20:16:48.280" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T13:01:32.277" Title="Reverse Gear Doesn't Work Anymore on an Automatic" Tags="|transmission|nissan|automatic-transmission|gears|pulsar|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18492" CreationDate="2015-07-15T23:03:10.267" Score="3" ViewCount="3663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently taken all my valves out and cleaned them with a wire brush as well as the shafts in the cylinder heads.  I am now getting ready to put them back in and have several questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What indicator/sound should I be looking for to signal that the&#xA;lapping of a valve is done properly?  I understand you should lap&#xA;them until a certain sound comes out, which means the seal is ready.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I assume the valve stem should be lubed especially along the portion&#xA;that goes through the guide.  Should I use regular machine oil or&#xA;the engine specific oil (in my case 5W30)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I lube or grease the keepers before putting them back on? I&#xA;think some grease may actually make the precise job of setting them&#xA;easier as it adds adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:44:06.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:44:06.747" Title="Valve lapping and lubrication" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2015-07-16T00:16:36.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;What indicator/sound should I be looking for to signal that the lapping of a valve is done properly? I understand you should lap them until a certain sound comes out, which means the seal is ready.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are looking to hear the pitch change. When the compound starts breaking down, the pitch will change from a low scratching noise to a higher, cleaner noise. It will &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; be self evident when you do the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I assume the valve stem should be lubed especially along the portion that goes through the guide. Should I use regular machine oil or the engine specific oil (in my case 5W30)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine oil will work just fine. It just needs to be clean. Oil which is on the thinner side is probably better (5w-30 &gt; 15w-40)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should I lube or grease the keepers before putting them back on? I think some grease may actually make the precise job of setting them easier as it adds adhesion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use some clean petroleum jelly on the keeper to hold them in place while you are placing them. If not exactly in place, they can jump off of the valve stem when you release the valve spring compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a side note:&lt;/strong&gt; While watching the Jafromobile video, you'll notice he's very meticulous and clean as he's working. If there was only &lt;em&gt;one bit of advice I could give you, it would be&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;H2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cleanliness is next to Godliness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/H2&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaner you keep things, the happier you'll be with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T00:16:36.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18489" CreationDate="2015-07-16T00:24:47.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I would love to tell you to &lt;em&gt;just go for it!&lt;/em&gt;, in the case of an automatic transmission I really cannot. It's not something the average Joe can tackle with any kind of confidence and complete successfully. Even with a good rebuild manual, it's not something you want to do uninitiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it sounds as though (besides the problem with the vacuum modulator you may be having) either your reverse band is shot, your solenoid actuator for the reverse band is shot, or both. I really think you have a lot more going on here than just that though. You are stating the transmission is running weird, so I'm thinking it's time for a total rebuild. You'll want to do this sooner, rather than later, as the more soft part debris which builds up in your tranny, the more damage it causes to your hard parts. Your transmission may be at the point of no return, where it's going to cost more in parts to fix it than it would to find a good used one to replace the old one. Although, if you have the means of removing the transmission yourself, I'd bet you can find a shop which will rebuild it for you. The job of removal/replacement can cost some $$ (or maybe ₤₤ in your case). Can definitely save you some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T00:24:47.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18476" CreationDate="2015-07-16T00:50:00.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The indicator lever is probably spot on for the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appears to be a triple-square fastener which attaches the steering wheel to the column. The guy in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/OLIj1XS0m9M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video on air bag &amp;amp; steering wheel removal&lt;/a&gt; says you can get away with using a T55 Torx head to pull the fastener. Other than that, it appears the job requires T20 &amp;amp; T25 Torx drivers. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/h2goGEM-Zbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video on actually removing the lever&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T00:50:00.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18499" CreationDate="2015-07-16T05:21:43.577" Score="4" ViewCount="15081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had wheel rotation, wheel alignment and balancing for my car several times at different service stations, still my car is shaking. Steering is also shaking.&#xA;What could be the reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that when I reach beyond 90 Km/h, this shaking effect goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a talk with the service engineer, he advised me two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace spindle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace all the old wheels with new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the spindle replacement done for my car still the issue persists.&#xA;I am not sure if the shaking will go or not by replacing all the old wheels.&#xA;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11326" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:04:32.233" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:04:32.233" Title="I have had wheel alignment and balancing several times, still my car is shaking" Tags="|alignment|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18501" CreationDate="2015-07-16T06:42:56.700" Score="2" ViewCount="16064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Bantam 1.3l pickup (South African) with 31 000 km on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning when I tried to start the car (cold start), it made a loud scratching/screeching noise (like when turning the key in the ignition for too long and engaging the starter for too long), although this was a bit of a higher pitched scratch/screech (but not like a fan belt slipping, it's definitely closer to the scratch of the starter). I immediately turned the engine off, but the screech still continued for half a second or so after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to turn the engine on again, and while it did start fine, the engine idled high for half a second or so, before dipping quite low and I had to engage the accelerator a bit to keep it going. After a few seconds, everything stabilised and I was able to drive off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car went for a general service about 2 weeks ago, and there haven't been any other issues since the service (or before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas and advice would be appreciated. I should add, I'm not an expert when it comes to the inner workings of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11329" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T12:28:44.097" Title="Screeching noise when attempting to start car" Tags="|ford|ignition|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18500" CreationDate="2015-07-16T07:19:27.363" Score="7" ViewCount="78068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Ford Fiesta Classic, 2008 model, clocked over 97k kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, When I left office at night, the surrounding was very silent and I observed a hissing sound coming from near the pedals below steering. I suddenly pressed the brake and stopped the car, but the sound disappeared. When I released the brake pedal, the sound again came. This sound is related to the brake pedal for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is still on even with hand brake engaged. Only a pressed brake pedal stops this sound. I don't find any decrease in braking performance, till now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I showed my car to a local garage today morning, he said it is okay. But, as it is related to braking system, I am worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had a similar issue or know about this, please give me suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6488" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T15:32:19.477" Title="Hissing sound near brake pedal, stops on brake pedal press" Tags="|ford|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17282" CreationDate="2015-07-16T07:46:35.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;V4 engines are more complex and therefore they're more expensive to produce. Keep in mind that 4 cylinder engines are usually (but not exclusively) installed in lower-spec vehicles where price is a factor. A 16-valve V4 would require four camshafts, more engine bay room and will produce less torque than an equivalent inline 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason 6 cylinder engines and up are in a V configuration is due to size constraints. a V6 is much shorter than an I-6. This also means that you can easily fit the V6 in a front wheel drive vehicle without having to make it wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there are still cars with inline-6 engines. Most notably the BMW 135i, 135iM, 335i and M3 (I think they're still I-6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T07:46:35.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18495" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:22:56.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could very well be that the tires are misformed due to ply separation, this is not very rare on old tires. It would make the wheel take a form that is not round, and you will get vibrations even if the wheels are perfectly in balance. since the steering wheel is vibrating, it probably is a front tire, so you could get by with changing two of your wheels. (keep the best pair on your rear axle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to test this you could try switching the front tires with the rear to see if the shaking in the steering wheel disappears. (Your car would still vibrate though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, visually inspect the wheels to see if there is any damage to it. It's not always as apparent as this, but it can often be seen when looking at the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GL2x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ply separation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T08:22:56.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:39:39.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds to me like a vacuum leak. Most cars have servo-assisted brakes (the reason it's much harder to brake if the engine is switched off), which is usually powered by a vacuum line taken off the inlet manifold (so that as the engine sucks in air and fuel, it also sucks air out of the servo). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look in the engine bay at the point nearest the brake pedal, you'll see the servo - a large round thing about the size and shape of a small casserole, with the brake cylinder stuck to the middle of it. There should be a hose going into this from somewhere. Check all round there for signs of the leak...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T08:39:39.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18496" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:41:35.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're spot on with the 'engaging the starter for too long' thought - I suspect it got stuck and didn't return properly. Hopefully it won't have damaged anything, but if it continues you might find it wrecks the starter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T08:41:35.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18489" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:45:15.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're confident at general mechanics, and fancy having a go, why not get hold of a second-hand transmission, swap that into the car, then have a go at rebuilding the original? That way, if you do screw it up, or it turns out to be unfixable, you're not stuck as you've got the replacement in the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T08:45:15.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18504" CreationDate="2015-07-16T09:16:57.373" Score="13" ViewCount="1475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into buying a second hand car from a reputable Mercedes-Benz dealer (not just some dodgy salesman by the side of a road lol....).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there are a few maintenance/mechanical things which I want to check, but I don't quite understand how and I was wondering if you could help explain &lt;strong&gt;HOW&lt;/strong&gt; I can go about physically checking these things when I go and visit Mercedes and have a look at their second hand cars. The things I want to check are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I have read online that here in the UK the tyre must have at least 1.6 mm of tread depth across the central 3/4 of the tyre and across entire outer circumference. Great... but how do i physically check that? I read on some sites that there is a tool you can buy which can help you figure this out. But I haven't been able to find out what this tool is. Do you know what it is..... OR .... do you know of any techniques I can use to roughly figure out if the tyre is in good condition??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also looking into wheel alignment. So far the only thing I have found on this is that you can ONLY test this by taking the car for a test drive and testing to see if the car drives to one side when you let go of the wheel. Is this correct?? Is there anything else I can do to check if the alignment has gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be checking the oil, looking at the exhaust fumes and generally listening to the engine and seeing how smooth it is to drive. Some people online have stated that you should check the engine gasket and the cambelt for dry rotting.... but how an earth can I check those things at the dealership.. I would have to physically open the engine... which obviously won't be allowed. Are there any other types of physical checks I can realistically do when inspecting the car? Please be descriptive... I could really do with as much detail as is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is getting a bit off topic but I will try and keep it as mechanical orientated as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general how can I haggle over the price? The car I am looking at is a 2012/2013 Mercedes C180 Coupe and most of the prices I have seen online are around 17k (GBP) to about 20k (GBP). So lets say I find one for around 17/18k, could I offer the salesman 16k? Would that be considered rude? How much can I realistically lower the price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say the car needs 4 new tires or a new exhaust. Could I get the repair included in the deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side Note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched a lot online &lt;strong&gt;BEFORE&lt;/strong&gt; writing this question, so please consider keeping this question open. It is a genuine question with lots of mechanical/maintenance related detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, I have read other posts online (even on this site) about what to check when buying a second hand car... but none of them go into detail about how to physically perform these checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time, Dan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="11074" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T07:14:48.317" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T20:03:02.897" Title="Second hand car - Engine/Tyres/Etc" Tags="|engine|tires|oil|mercedes-benz|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18503" CreationDate="2015-07-16T10:31:27.707" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The below are very easy checks you can do while buying a used car.(from anywhere for that matter of fact)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most complicated/expensive part to maintain/replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head Gasket check: Open the oil filler cap or the dip stick for any milky white substance, like mayonnaise, if it is present then stay away, it means the head gasket is broken and coolant is mixing with the oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for any possible oil leaks on the engine itself, if present this means that one of the oil seals have given way, usually cheap to repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the underside of the engine, if there are any possible leaks, any sign of liquid leaking from the engine bay one of the hoses might have leak (there are a host of things which carry fluids on a car so I cannot list out all of the fluid leak symptoms just check anything that is not water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Since you have mentioned it's a dealership there is a good chance of them cleaning it up so the other way to check is taking it for a drive and then checking the underside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check the battery&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The multimeter/voltmeter will have two prongs sticking out red(+ve) and black(-VE) turn the middle knob to 12 or 20 volt scale,  connect the prongs to the corresponding terminals on the battery the reading should be around 12.24 to 12.66.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        12.66v . . .  100%&#xA;        12.45v . . .  75%&#xA;        12.24v . . .  50%&#xA;        12.06v . . .  25%&#xA;        11.89v . . .  0%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the alternator: Again using the multimeter, follow this link for a detailed guide on how to check it, I am pointing it out here since a new alternator is cheap but the labour cost is massive. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2010/01/how-to-test-a-car-alternator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to check alternator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for any burnt smell (usually unlikely but give it a shot)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cold Start: DO this step in the beginning, have someone start the car and look at the exhaust; if you see lot of black smoke then you have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CEL check: Check for the check engine light; if it's ON then you have issues with the sensors or the ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts: have a look at the serpentine belt, the one which connects the compressor to the engine and alternator, check for dry rot there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check service records: Insist on having look at service records, look if any parts have been changed. check if the timing belt or chain has been replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Idle check: do a cold start and wait for some time, check if the car is idle properly and not cutting off, if it is then might be issue with fuel delivery or intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cranking: Check if the car is cranking properly and does not require you to crank it like a mad man to start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission&lt;/strong&gt;:This is the next important component of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start the car, put it into first and move, note if you are having any issues in getting off the line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if you don't grind the gears while shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To check the clutch, put the car in second or third while standing still and release the clutch, the vehicle should nudge and shut off, if you have issues with the clutch plate or the assembly then your car will keep on moving instead of stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the car in reverse, it should not grind. (not a major issue)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am not a automatic driver so here is a link to how to check auto transmission (just make sure your car does not jerk while shifting into modes abruptly) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nairaland.com/420381/how-check-automatic-transmission-before&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to check automatic transmission&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand near the top of each wheel arch and press down with your hands, the car should retain its position albeit with a small bounce, if it's more or less then either your damper or coil is gone. (Do this for all 4 wheels)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;manually inspect the coil/damper for any oil leaks to know their condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a car with McPherson type suspension check if the shocks are not completely wedged into the body(sort of depends on the vehicle type)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While the car is still start it and turn the steering full left and right, you should not hear any clanks or creeks from the con rods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it out on a drive, find small and big potholes on the road, insist on going bad roads, check if your car does not hit with a thud while going over bumps. ( unless you are buying a sports variant which will)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the service history for any previous accidents, this is important since lower control arms do not break easily but when they do they cost a lot to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Body&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, pop the bonnet, look underside of the bonnet for any repair work, check if the rubber seal around the bonnet is intact, if you spot any abnormalities even in the paint it means the car has had a frontal collision.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for rust on the underside of the car, check if the subframe (outline of the car) is intact and not dents or deforming is there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if all the panels fit properly else the car might have been involved in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Though subjective, check for the paintjob and overall dents on the body (I personally don't mind scratches)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steering alignment, check if the steering is aligned properly by doing a test drive( also notice the free play of the steering&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electricals&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again this is sort of subjective and can help in bargaining the price , you can compromise on some parts here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if the power windows/seats/mirrors/lights/stereo are working if not then I would start to negotiate prices(lol)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if the power steering is working, it should not be hard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check if the airco is working and the AC works on all the settings (if not auto climate control) pop the hood check if the compressor is engaging.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the interiors especially under the carpet for any rust, if so then the underside has a leak through which rain water can seep in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check if the brakes are functioning properly and you can actually stop the vehicle depending on the pressure you apply.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for any rough sensation on the foot while breaking (might be issue with master cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;watch out for any squeaking sound or burning smell from the brakes.(can be fixed easily)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the disc ROTOR, if it's rusted then the car has been standing still for a long time, look at any rough edges or damages to the rotor if so you need to change the pad together on both side will be sort of expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since it's the law in the UK I advise you to have the measuring device but there will be small studs on the tyres which indicate the wear points (sorry for no image will update when I get time)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tyres should have even wear throughout if not then might have issue with the camber adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There should be no abnormal deformities in the tyre like a bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the alloys for any cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally the documents:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for proper documentation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will update this once I get time, as of now this should be hopefully helpful&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T20:03:02.897" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T20:03:02.897" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18507" CreationDate="2015-07-16T10:33:51.813" Score="4" ViewCount="51574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a late 2012 Renault Megane and when using one of our key cards the dashboard displayed a message about the battery being low. I have replaced the battery with a brand new one and the message is still being displayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I need to do to reset the warning, or does it indicate some other issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Andrew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11332" LastActivityDate="2021-07-07T22:57:14.860" Title="Key Card Battery Low message after replacing battery" Tags="|key|renault|megane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18503" CreationDate="2015-07-16T10:47:28.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre depth gauges look something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-28729-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B009VYJGMO&quot;&gt;this (amazon link)&lt;/a&gt; - you can buy them in any automotive store. You press the green bit against the tyre and push the middle bit into the tread groove. The slidy bit at the top will then tell you the depth. Buy one and have a play, it's easier to see than to explain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to see the 'wear bars' - raised bits in the middle of the bigger tread grooves. They are 1.6mm deep, so if they are flush with the surface of the tyre, it's worn out. Bear in mind that 1.6mm is the minimum - it's better to have more, and many people recommend replacing at 3mm. You should also replace any tyre with cracking or damage, or that is over 6-8 years old (hopefully not a problem on a 3 year old car!) Look for signs of uneven wear on the tyres (e.g. one side of a tyre wearing more than the other) - that'll show up if the alignment is out. If there is damage to the wheels (e.g. scuffing from a kerb), ask if the alignment has been checked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't realistically check the cambelt or head-gasket when buying a car, but look for any visible signs of problems. If there are leaks, check what they are and where they are coming from. If things look suspiciously clean, be suspicious... A three year old car won't have needed a cambelt replacement yet, unless it's done astronomical mileage, so you won't need to worry about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a car that has done about average mileage (roughly 8-12k miles per year), and that has full service history (I'd expect all secondhand Mercs of that age to do so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a more experienced friend you can take along, do so - not only can they give you advice, but a second opinion is always useful. On the test drive, trust your instinct, if something feels wrong, it probably is. Check the stuff on Anarach's list. Check that the numbers match (the VIN number on the dashboard and the ID plate should match those on the registration document, and the engine number should match). Check for any outstanding finance - many companies online do vehicle ID checks, the AA, RAC, and HPI are the most well-known in the UK. If the dealer asserts that the car is 'HPI-free', ask for a certificate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haggling is very subjective, and off-topic here. Most dealers won't think you rude, but may well say no! Asking for something to be 'thrown in' like new tyres or repairs is quite common - check they have been done before you accept the car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T10:47:28.733" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18505" CreationDate="2015-07-16T12:20:19.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says in manuals: Press one of the buttons on the card four times close to the vehicle, The next time the vehicle is started, the message will disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T12:20:19.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T12:52:30.373" Score="3" ViewCount="2337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went on a vacation for three weeks. When I came back and opened my car, I found a lizard in the car. I have had the air re-circulating knob set to ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still guessing how this lizard entered my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11326" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T10:36:39.543" Title="Found a lizard in my car, I have not driven it for 20 or more days" Tags="|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2015-07-16T13:25:17.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things come to mind here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, cars are a sieve. There are more holes in them than you can shake a stick at. Lizards are very &lt;em&gt;pliable&lt;/em&gt; creatures and can fit through any of these small openings if it fits their needs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second, the lizard may have been in your car since the last time you were in your car. You never know.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T13:25:17.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:49:06.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following Nick's answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is sometimes a vacuum line that goes inside the cabin of the vehicle for HVAC controls.  This line usually comes from the brake booster.  Look at the brake booster's vacuum lines and see if there is one going through the firewall.  If there is, try to follow it through the firewall and under the dash to the HVAC controls to see if you can find a leak.  It might be easier to cap off the line at the brake booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple tools that can be useful in finding vacuum leaks:&#xA;if a hose has a leak and you spray it with carburetor cleaner, the engine should rev up slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stethoscope will help you pinpoint where a noise is coming from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a vacuum gauge can help you determine if a line in leaking.  If capping off a line causes higher vacuum, then there is a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A handheld vacuum pump will allow you to test lines/devices.  Connect the pump and pull about 20&quot; of vacuum.  If the vacuum drops, there is a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:49:06.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18530" CreationDate="2015-07-16T17:40:32.167" Score="2" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Varadero 2010. When I fill her up to max, the level of the liquid in the tank is at maximum, just a tiny bit below the rim of the nozzle. Then, I poor in some more and the level raises up to the nozzle &lt;strong&gt;but afterwards it drops again&lt;/strong&gt; just to the original maximum!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I repeated this exercise a few times and the tank seems to be made of rubber. I put in about ten such &quot;additions&quot; and each time with the same effect. (Then, I realized that it might be bad for my beauty so I stopped.) There's no leakage or anything and the bottom of the bike is as dry as my bank account at the end of the month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is all that about? Does Honda make a magical, bottomless bikes?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11338" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:28:33.833" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T07:45:16.160" Title="How come I can put in more gas in the tank than possible?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18514" CreationDate="2015-07-16T18:33:26.113" Score="5" ViewCount="72753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading for a week or so about how AC systems work and problems they could have.  One consistent thing I've read is to check how the compressor clutch reacts when you turn on AC - if it disengages then it doesn't have enough pressure and likely has a refrigerant leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 94 Cherokee (apparently not great AC systems to begin with) seems to be blowing only slightly cool air when AC is on max settings.  However, my clutch seems to be running fine.  It never disengages or stutters even for a second.  Aside from refrigerant leak, what are some other reasons why an AC system would not be producing much cold air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure I'd ask here before I bought some UV dye to try to track down a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:17:47.633" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T02:10:53.393" Title="AC clutch engages but still no cold air" Tags="|ac|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18511" CreationDate="2015-07-16T18:42:14.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra gas you are pumping in your tank is likely going back into the pump at the station, which is also drying out your bank account!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most gas stations are equipped with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_recovery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vapor recovery systems&lt;/a&gt; that feed the gas back into their tanks to prevent vapors from escaping into the air, which would otherwise contribute to air pollution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/donttopoff/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;U.S Environmental Protection Agency&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you top off your tank, the extra gas may evaporate into your vehicle’s vapor collection system. That system may become fouled and will not work properly causing your vehicle to run poorly and have high gas emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For theses reasons, it is in your best interest to ease off the trigger when you hear that first click at the nozzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:43:31.123" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:43:31.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18512" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:06:13.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we're ruling out the possibility of a leak in the system and you're still not getting cold air then it's probably due to normal wear/age. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refrigerant system is supposed to be a sealed system, but this is rarely perfect.  If the AC system has never been serviced or it's been many years (6+) since it has been you could be just experiencing normal leakage.  Cars are exposed to road vibrations, temperature extremes, and just time.  Due to this the seals on the system breakdown slowly. The refrigerant will leak away very slowly and air will be introduced in to the system. You'll continue to have good enough pressure so the clutch engages but not enough to cool the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding the system should make it like new and give you a good 10 - 15 years of life out of it.  There's a cost/benefit of rebuilding the system vs a periodic vacuum &amp;amp; recharge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If memory serves me correctly 1994 would have been within the range of when cars were switching from r12 to r134a.  My experience is that the first cars to come with r134a had very poor AC cooling in comparison to earlier cars or current cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:06:13.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16068" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:38:37.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, did you steal it? :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you have to take your car to a certified locksmith who works on cars or to the dealership. These anti theft system has codes unique to your vehicle only dealer and locksmith has access to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:38:37.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T20:09:46.897" Score="0" ViewCount="4547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stuck oil plug. I've tried a hammer on my ratchet. I don't have a longer bar to use. What can I do to get the plug off? It seems stuck. I'm using a 13 mm socket on a Chevy venture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11341" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T23:41:11.613" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T23:41:11.613" Title="How to remove a stuck oil plug?" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-16T23:46:47.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18503" CreationDate="2015-07-16T20:57:04.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking the battery requires a battery tester and disconnecting the battery; the next best manner is to hook the car up to the correct service equipment and confirm it is the right battery for the car and use any test protocols available on the equipment and car, meanwhile also checking the charging system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, use 'close visual inspection': look at it very carefully, make sure it is the right model, amperage and type of battery.  Before looking at a particular model of car look it up online and find out what battery it should come with from the factory.  You should find out if it is an AGM battery or conventional lead-acid type.  If it is not the same as original, then is it suitable based on specifications -- should have more CCA and more CA (Cold Cranking Amps / Cranking Amps), and should have the same or higher Amperage rating (some batteries are rated with Amps in addition to CCA and CA.)  Group type refers to the battery's dimensions LxWxH, such as 'Group 42', but there are several systems in use, so cross reference and be prepared based on model, or else just look at the thing and see if it fits the battery pan and the cables look original, good condition and are not corroded with lead-sulfate crystals.  The outside of the battery should be clean and without damage to the plastic or the labels and not appear to have leaked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geez, you could take a course in battery inspection, there is always more to learn.  But those basics ought to help.  Where I live, in the SE USA, I can go get a battery for my BMW 335i at a cost of ~US$135.00.  I will have a choice of which to get.  My car has a computer which is programmed when the battery is installed so that can be checked by the dealer or a shop with the right equipment and software (there are literally dozens of computers in the car, which has its own network to allow them to speak to each other and to the service port....)  So a battery is not such a big factor as some other things.  I like to have a 'straight' car that has not ever had a wreck that incurred frame damage.  Not only should you drive the car and test it, but ride in another car behind and beside and see that it rides straight down the road, and that the wheels and tires do not wobble or hop and track straight down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is my two pence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11342" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T20:57:04.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18517" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:10:38.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a lubricant to penetrate the bolt. Some ones that work well are WD-40, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, all of which can be found in most hardware stores. If you can get one of those and a hollow metal pipe to get more leverage on the breaker bar, it should do the trick. Be careful when you're down there as it could get real messy once you get it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer provides details of the above technique on a lug nut. You would follow the same procedure, again just be careful of the oil spill and ensure that that you have the car safely mounted on jack stands: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2204/how-do-i-loosen-stuck-lug-nuts-in-order-to-change-a-tire&quot;&gt;How do I loosen stuck lug nuts in order to change a tire?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:10:38.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:50:44.407" Score="2" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been hearing a sound coming from the car. I thought maybe water pump as I had changed it once before. What happens is when I start car it begins to smoke up front and I hear a scheeking sound. I tried to locate the tensioner pulley, but just pulled the power steering pulley off because it seems to be rocking back and forth with a clicking sound??? So do I Change the whole power steering pump? And how? A video would be great if anyone has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11345" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:15:10.040" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:15:10.040" Title="1993 Mercedes 300e should there be movement in my power streering pulley?" Tags="|noise|mercedes-benz|power-steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:52:38.380" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is running very poorly when I start my 1994 Buick Century for the first time every day. It will stall out especially at a stop, but starts right back up and it stutters. Plus, the service engune light is on and stays on until I stop and restart the car. After 20-35 minutes of driving, after I park, it will run better if started within approximately an hour. The service engune light is off and it will not sputter and stall out then until it sits longer. Usually about an hour this happens each time I drive the car. Can anyone suggest what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11346" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:10:32.083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:10:32.083" Title="My car is running very poorly when I start my 1994 Buick Century" Tags="|engine|cel|stall|buick|century|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18512" CreationDate="2015-07-16T22:25:15.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is &lt;strong&gt;the system is low on refrigerant&lt;/strong&gt;. Since the clutch engages, there is enough refrigerant in the system (pressure) for the clutch to engage. If there wasn't enough in the system, it wouldn't even do that. If the system were where it is supposed to be, the compressor would kick on/off constantly once the system has been run for a little while. This happens after the pressures get to where they need to be on each side of the system (high/low). Since it is running all the time, the system pressures never gets to where they're supposed to be for the compressor to kick off, so it continues to run. This is also why you are only getting lukewarm air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That your system has that many years on it is pretty common that some of the refrigerant has bled off. More than likely a recharge of the system with new refrigerant which includes a stop leak will probably keep the system golden for another five years. I wouldn't give up on your system yet, as there is probably still plenty of life left in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:25:15.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18503" CreationDate="2015-07-16T22:31:29.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've speed read this so excuse duplication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Service history is important.  Make sure all stamps are present and consider calling the garage(s) who stamped them to confirm each service took place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're spending a lot of money on the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've lined up the final choice, I'd consider spending a few hundred more and get the RAC or AA to inspect it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'll check for accident damage too which you might not be able to unless you're under the car. They'll also tell you the items that are likely to need attention soon.  Useful when discussing final price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually try to find out who owned the car previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11347" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:31:29.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18532" CreationDate="2015-07-16T23:32:52.710" Score="2" ViewCount="6508" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following diagram :&#xA;This is for a Polaris sportsman 700 2003 ATV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fAqd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the top right corner, you have the information to check if the stator function properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first three coils, everything pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure how to test the &lt;strong&gt;ignition coil&lt;/strong&gt; as the only data specified are &lt;em&gt;&quot;without caps&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&quot;with caps&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which &lt;em&gt;&quot;caps&quot;&lt;/em&gt; do the diagram refer to and how can I properly test the ignition coil ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the main reason why I'm checking if my stator does work properly is because I get no spark when starting and I'm trying to figure out why. Keeping this in mind, I don't think I have to check the &lt;em&gt;&quot;front wheel drive coil&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;&quot;battery charge coil&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T14:20:58.410" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T14:20:58.410" Title="How to diagnose a bad stator?" Tags="|ignition|yamaha|stator|polaris|sportsman|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T01:02:05.523" Score="5" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a previously owned &lt;code&gt;2008 Chevrolet Malibu&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;100,000 K&lt;/code&gt; on it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whenever I make a sharp left or right turn (making a 90 degree turn rather than a shallow turn), the front end makes a &lt;em&gt;clunk&lt;/em&gt; sound after I pull out of the turn while centering the steering wheel. It also does this &lt;em&gt;clunking&lt;/em&gt; when I accelerate hard or brake hard (this doesn't happen as frequently as turning). &#xA;The previous owner claims to have had the CV joints, brake pads and rotors changed before he decided to sell the car.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What could be the issue? How do I go about diagnosing it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd appreciate any insight on this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11348" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T08:43:20.310" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T08:43:20.310" Title="Clunking sound?" Tags="|chevrolet|steering|noise|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15915" CreationDate="2015-07-17T02:35:56.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be missing something, since I'd expect someone would have mentioned this.  But, just in case: the standard answer to (I think) the same question on 'Car Talk' was always that the drain hose from evaporator pan was plugged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T02:35:56.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2015-07-17T05:23:06.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you replaced the injectors. I think you replaced the spark plugs. Injectors are what spray gas into the combustion chamber, and those are usually replaced or cleaned on older cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said it happened right after the spark plugs were replaced. Why not replace them again? They might be the wrong spark plugs, they might have the wrong spark plug gap, One or more if the coils might not be inserted all the way, or one or more of the coils may be bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11351" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T05:23:06.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18511" CreationDate="2015-07-17T07:45:16.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra fuel will be being distributed into the breather system of the fuel tank.  Most fuel tank have the main fill tube which the fuel goes into plus at least one additional smaller tube to prevent air becoming trapped in the tank.  It is likely that you are filling the fill tube with fuel which is then being forced into the tank and up into the breather tube so that the level in the fill tube appears to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@t.Q. is correct in his assertion that the nozzle at the pump has it's own return tube too and it is not good practice to fill up after the pump has cut out at it's maximum level more than once because an amount of the fuel you are forcing into the filler tube of the tank will be being pushed back into the fuel pumps overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T07:45:16.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18526" CreationDate="2015-07-17T08:03:12.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints.  Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of jacking the car up and supporting in on axle stands (if you don't have any stands to support it, DO NOT try and do this with the car only on a jack) and spinning the wheels, feeling for up-down or left-right play and spinning the wheels at full lock.  Also check for play in the drive shafts by again trying to &quot;wiggle&quot; them up/down and left/right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you may want to try.  Perform a tight turn with the gearbox in Neutral and see if the noise still occurs.  If it does it points to CV joints / driveshafts but if it doesn't it could be the output cups or differential on the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T08:03:12.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18525" CreationDate="2015-07-17T11:48:45.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ATV has a twin cylinder engine. I believe the &quot;caps&quot; they are referring to in the diagram are the caps which go onto the coil leads. You need to test the coil resistance through the spark plug leads, with and without the caps. The caps are the part which screws into the spark plug lead and attaches it to the spark plug. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ix9YhKnYVqs?t=6m50s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; which explains it on a single cylinder ATV, though the procedure should be basically the same for yours. I've put the video at the spot where he's testing the coil. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; You can watch the entire video, but this guy is &lt;em&gt;painfully&lt;/em&gt; slow ... your choice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Keeping this in mind, I don't think I have to check the &quot;front wheel drive coil&quot; and the &quot;battery charge coil&quot;, right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think so either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T11:48:45.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:14:59.697" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty obvious from reading all these replies, that the mechanic shops want you to always replace your rotors, and pay them to do it. Rust on the edges is normal and will happen with new rotors in less than a year, depending on where you live. If the rotors have never been resurfaced, you don't have any deep grooves, and your brakes aren't shuddering when you stop, then it's completely safe to install new pads. The worst that is likely to happen even with worn rotors, is the new pads wear unevenly and don't last. As for the mechanic that told you that rust around the edges indicated replacement, you need to replace the mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T13:14:59.697" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:36:56.133" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The direct answer is that you &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to replace your rotors when they look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2MY6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T07:31:16.007" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T07:31:16.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17393" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:43:57.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a 35 year veteran motorcycle rider and owner of 15 different bikes during that time, while I don't dispute the unsprung weight argument made by DucatiKiller, I can tell you that there is a much, much, much more practical reason for using a single sided swing arm: It dramatically simplifies chain maintenance.&#xA;You see, with a double sided swing arm, you must ensure proper rear wheel alignment with EVERY chain adjustment. The rear axel must be kept perpendicular to the swing arm. Getting chain slack adjusted is a fussy process, often requiring multiple cycles of loosening everything, making the adjustment to chain tension, and then tightening everything up again, measuring the new chain slack, and then (more often then not), repeating this. In addition, as the chain and sprockets wear out, the chain has loose and tight spots which can cause confusion with rear wheel alignment, as a tight spot on the newly adjusted chain can easily be a symptom of misalignment, (i.e., adjusting each side of the swinger's adjusters unevenly). And, if you misalign the rear axel you can cause the chain to become stressed and stretched, in addition to other problems.&#xA;The single sided swing arm does away with all of that. The rear axel cannot become misaligned during routine chain maintenance, because it's alignment is permanently fixed relative to the single sided swing arm.&#xA;Other maintenance benefits include easier rear wheel removal, tire pressure maintenance, and access to cleaning and inspecting everything in and around that area.&#xA;Many manufacturers sell shaft drive motorcycles - not because shaft drive is more efficient than chain drive, (it is not), but because motorcycle owners are notoriously bad at keeping their chains adjusted properly, a problem that has always been made worse by the double sided swing arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11355" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T13:43:57.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18541" CreationDate="2015-07-17T15:52:40.917" Score="3" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving out performance aspect ( Since cold weather is best for that ) I want to know which is better to maintain a car and its longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My arguments for Hot weather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine reaches optimum operating temperatures quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil is thinner compared to cold weather thus better lubrication.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better economy in short city drives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if the components are affected by the weather at all(including the body,tyres? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T08:53:45.067" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T08:53:45.067" Title="Is it better for car's longeviety in cold climate or hot climate" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2015-07-17T16:58:28.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is a bit hypothetical; please take it as one path to follow, that may be useful in this and other, similar, cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the clue to the problem is not in the spark plug (or injector?) replacement, but rather in this part: &quot;I had a engine tune up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we do not know if the OP had this performed at an official garage, if this was the case it is very possible that an ECU re-flash was undertaken, according to periodic instructions given by the manufacturer. ECU mappings go through a review process, as does software in general, going to version 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, etc. (One hopes not initial versions starting with zero: 0.1, 0.2, as these would be pre-release - though some have been seen to subsist in production models through error.) Successive versions fix bugs that have come up in previous ones, and are often applied by the official garages during standard maintenance as a matter of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, newer versions of ECU software can also contain there own errors, newer bugs that were not present in the initial version loaded on the vehicle as it came out of the factory. This explanation would be consistent with the symptoms observed by the OP: injection mappings would be just a bit off for a certain combination of the parameters (temperature, pedal position, revs, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution in this case would be to have the car re-flashed, with a more recent version of the software - fixing the new bug, and hopefully not adding more bugs to further mix things up. Just having a quiet chat with the repair person (i.e. the guy/gal who really fixes your car, as opposed to just manning the front desk) can often confirm this supposition, without even needing to take anything apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently come across a similar case of jerk/knock on 2014 Ford 1.6 TDCI, so this type of electronic hiccup is not limited to one particular manufacturer. The electronic guru in that shop went: &quot;Oh yeah, we know about that one. Just bring it in and we'll have it 30 mins on the computer. No charge.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T17:03:36.600" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T17:03:36.600" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18537" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:54:10.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to choose, I'd say hot weather is easier on a car's longevity than is cold weather. Here is my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot weather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaks fluids down faster&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep an eye on engine oil/coolant levels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain fluid more often (change oil/coolant sooner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires wear out faster&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot asphalt tears up the tread faster (higher temp rated tires are needed here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat is the mortal enemy of automatic transmissions&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If extreme heat exists, an extra capacity transmission cooler can be added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold weather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluids are thicker/stiffer&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased warm up time is needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In extreme cold whether, the need for a block heater is a must&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil doesn't circulate as quickly which can cause increased wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parts become brittle when cold which causes breakage which does not occur in hot climate&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While metal is a big concern here, even rubber can become brittle and experience breakage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other things which I'm missing here, but if you look at what I wrote, most everything which can happen to a vehicle in hotter climates can be adjusted for by doing proper maintenance. As long as that's done, wear should be about normal for the vehicle. On the other hand, there isn't much you can do about the cold. When a vehicle is cold, it will stay cold (talking mainly about suspension parts). All of the cold issues cause wear/tear on the vehicle and there is just about no way of getting around it. Even if you keep your vehicle in a heated garage, it will get cold again once it's outside. Metal fatigues faster because it becomes more brittle and forms stress risers easier. Grease doesn't lubricate as well, so parts experience more wear (ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T19:54:10.560" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:03:06.630" Score="2" ViewCount="3219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Honda Civic Ex Sedan. The dealer installed a block engine heater before the last winter. When they finished the installation, I had 2 cables like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rdam0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Female and male connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cables were going out from the bottom of the bumper like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CKBE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;But as you can see, there is only the male connector now.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me where can I find the female connector? I mean this (the picture below is a reference. It's not for cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2Fz9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Female connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of cord is it? AND the most important thing, where do I connect it under the hood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know that the female connector could be removed easily and it's a shame that someone stole it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Canadian Tire but they didn't know of what I was talking about. I called the dealer to explain what happened, but they told me that I need to buy a new block heater package (around $100). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to do a research on Internet but I cannot find anything about it. I reviewed my installation bill and I found the generic product code 08T44-SNA-301, but curiously it doesn't come with the female connector. This is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bernardiparts.com/Images/Install/2014_CivicSedan_EngineBlockHeater_AII50693.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; where you can find the details of the product and how to install it in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think newer models of honda include a place to connect the female cord or maybe a connector to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The male connector has a sticker that it says &lt;strong&gt;&quot;pyroil&quot; 1752 10amp 125v 1250w&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Canada by the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastEditorUserId="11353" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T12:19:21.527" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:19:21.527" Title="Honda Civic 2014 EX Block Heater" Tags="|honda|civic|block-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18610" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:48:31.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do a &quot;complete&quot; overhaul of my A/C system and am pricing parts.  I will be dropping a good amount of money on the parts and want to protect my investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my hoses aren't leaking (not counting around the O-rings), can they go bad?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they get blocked, clogged, slimed up or deteriorate in some way on the inside that I can't see until they are off the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific vehicle is a '98 Dodge Dakota Sport 2WD 3.9L V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T00:57:57.270" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:36:20.823" Title="Do A/C Hoses Go Bad in Other Ways than Leaking?" Tags="|ac|dodge|dakota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2015-07-17T22:11:20.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in NH it snows a lot here a lot of the winter season...   I don't pull my wipers back, BC I fear rust from all the salt and crud from the roads... &#xA;I do however, place newspapers between wipers ams windshield and all over windshield to easily remove snow and avoid ice directly to my windshield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answer helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11360" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:11:20.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18546" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:37:41.167" Score="0" ViewCount="4744" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mechanic says my serpentine belt and tensioner need to be replaced and quoted me $400 for the work.  I have a 2004 Pontiac Vibe that might be nearing it's retirement time and am skeptical about putting this much money into a simple belt replacement before it is absolutely necessary.  How critical is it to have this replaced when a mechanic identifies it as a problem area, and is $400 a reasonable quote?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11362" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T03:53:16.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T18:46:10.370" Title="How critical is a Serpentine belt replacement and is it worth $400" Tags="|pontiac|belt|belt-tensioner|vibe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18545" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:54:34.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is way too much money for a serpentine belt and a tensioner pulley &lt;em&gt;on any vehicle&lt;/em&gt;. If you cannot do this yourself, take it to a different mechanic and have them do it. A serpentine belt is &lt;em&gt;not at all critical&lt;/em&gt; to the overall health of the engine. If it fails, you put a new one on. It may be inconvenient after it breaks, but it's not going to ruin anything in the mean time. It's inconvenient because your alternator, power steering, and most importantly, air conditioning will no longer function. The engine, however, will continue to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; While no major &lt;em&gt;evil&lt;/em&gt; effects will happen, it is important that you wouldn't run your engine too long as it is at this point, only running off of battery power. You will eventually drain all the juice from it and the car will die. Once the new belt is put on and the battery recharged, everything &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; @yaymuffins pointed out that the serpentine belt also runs the water pump in this application (the Toyota 1zz-fe engine). If the serpentine belt &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; fails, this becomes a major concern. Serpentine belts do not usually fail so spectacularly, but it is a concern. If the serpentine belt fails completely (you'll see a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of dash lights come on), you'll want to shut your engine down rather quickly to avoid over heating damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with all that said, &lt;em&gt;are you sure they said &lt;strong&gt;serpentine belt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;? They surely could have said &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;timing belt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very important&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the grand scheme of things. If it were to fail, it could destroy the upper end of your engine. Please take this into account when you are making your decision as to whether you are getting the work done or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T18:46:10.370" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T18:46:10.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18542" CreationDate="2015-07-18T01:44:04.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to tell you this, &lt;em&gt;but any 12/3 extension cord&lt;/em&gt; (15A or better) will do what you need. I see nothing there which you need &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; special to get your block heater attached to AC power. I grew up in a cold environment (Northern Rockies in Montana). &lt;em&gt;All&lt;/em&gt; our cars had block heaters. We &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; had anything special beyond the male plug you've shown in the third picture to plug our cars in. Grab an extension cord and find out for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bW5i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T01:44:04.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18496" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:20:13.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect your starter failed to disengage from the flywheel even after the engine started.  The screech was probably from the starter as it suddenly began to spin at a rate much greater than it was designed to do.  This shouldn't hurt the engine or flywheel, but it will shorten the life of the starter if it continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, this may not happen again.  If it does, I suspect you'll need to buy a new bendix drive for the starter (the mechanism that engages and disengages the starter from pressing against the flywheel).  Usually this is not expensive, although I recently replaced the starter assembly on my Infiniti, which ran $500 in parts.  (Yes, it was overpriced.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:20:13.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8591" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:29:37.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your automatic transmission have a manual shift mode?  Is it possible that you pushed the lever from auto mode into manual shift mode?  I've never heard of a bad or missing fuse causing this, but a misplaced shift lever could cause exactly what you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing I would do is swap the taillight fuse back where you found it to see if that fixes your shifting problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:29:37.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18558" CreationDate="2015-07-18T07:38:04.303" Score="9" ViewCount="30469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand how a clutch can separate the flywheel from the clutch disk so that power is disconnected from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that happens, does the input shaft (along with the countershaft) stop immediately? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are moving, they should have some rotational energy, how is all the energy lost in one second and it stops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:09:02.070" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:09:02.070" Title="How does a clutch work?" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18557" CreationDate="2015-07-18T08:43:25.830" Score="2" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I underatand how rack and pinion steering works but in order for it to prevent slippery in wheels the inner rotating wheel has to follow a different path with a different angle than the other one, so how does that happen though wheels are connected together with the same rack??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T12:06:02.140" Title="how does rack and pinion manage to move each wheel alone" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T11:22:06.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been facing high fuel consumption lately. To my surprise I discovered that my front wheel free rotation seems bit restrictive to my rear one even when rear wheel drags chain and two sprockets with it. (Thus, logically free motion of front wheel should be less restrictive than the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I rode my bike for five minutes and felt a huge difference between the temperatures of the rear and the front rotor. Though I could touch each rotor with my bare hands, the front rotor was way hotter than the rear one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I hear a light scratchy sound from a part of my front rotor while trying to rotate the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I feel I require more accelerator in the first gear to pick up some speed though I rarely feel any difference in high speed (vs RPM). Like I touch 111 km/hr at a RPM of 6k on the sixth gear which is completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my fuel consumption has increased. It use to be 450 kms per full tank (13 lts). Not it is 350 kms per full tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike: Honda CBR250R&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KMS Run: 35000 kms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Major Change in Last Two Service: Clutch Plate, Front Caliper (Due to Rusting and severe resistance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Few doubts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much free rotation can we expect from the front wheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the scenarios, is it possible that my rotor is not completely flat?  May be after a fall? How do I figure that out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible that my wheel isn't aligned? How do I figure that out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="12814" LastEditDate="2023-03-14T20:53:33.380" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T20:53:33.380" Title="Why is my front wheel rotor heating up more than the rear one?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-consumption|brake-rotor|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18553" CreationDate="2015-07-18T12:06:02.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called an Ackermann steering mechanism. It is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ackermann steering geometry principle&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the two diagrams, you'll see what's going on. The two steering arms are designed in such a way so the turning knuckle center point (point at which the wheel rotates on) and the tie rod end connection points, when a line is drawn through them, the intersection of the two lines meets at the rear differential (first drawing). Since both are at an angle, when you turn the wheel (left or right - doesn't matter), the inside tire is forced to turn more than the outside tire (second drawing). The design allows for the turning arc to intersect the axle plane no matter how far the turning rotation. By putting the intersection on the axle plane, you are also putting it on the turn center radius, which keeps the arcs of the two front tires proper as you go around a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the theory, though it doesn't work out perfectly in real life. There will probably always be some deviance, but for the most part, this is the reason the inside tire will turn further than the outside tire. If you really want to get into the nuts/bolts, you can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this webpage&lt;/a&gt;. There is a lot of information about the mathematical theory behind the Ackermann steering mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5dlC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qd77F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T12:06:02.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2015-07-18T12:28:28.600" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A basic clutch is made up of three major parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flywheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZ4Ry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction disk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IfmC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure plate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKjZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; These three pieces do not actually go together. I'm using the pictures for illustrative purposes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flywheel is attached to the back of the engine. The pressure plate is attached to the flywheel. Sandwiched in between the two is the friction disk. The friction works a lot like brake pads, in that it grips the flywheel/pressure plate on either side through, what else, friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmjH2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The splined input shaft of the transmission is placed through the friction disk and rides on a pilot bearing at the center of the flywheel. When you press the clutch pedal, the the throwout bearing is pushed against the clutch fingers, which pulls the plate away from the flywheel. When the pressure plate is pulled away, it allows for enough space between the to for a decoupling and the friction disk is allowed to spin freely. This disconnects the power output of the engine from going to the transmission. When you release the clutch pedal, the plate moves back towards the flywheel, recapturing the friction disk and power is restored to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please not, it's not that the input shaft &lt;em&gt;stops immediately&lt;/em&gt; when the clutch is disengaged. It's just that each entity (engine and transmission) are allowed to operate independently of each other at that point. This gives you time to change gears or prepare for a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T12:28:28.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T14:11:58.500" Score="1" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drive slowly in a turn, and especially while parking, I often feel a subtle but noticeable bump through the wheel, like there is play in some component connecting the steering wheel to the front wheels. It occurs when I accelerate slightly, or when the wheels encounter some uneven surface. Happens in reverse too. It has been going on for at least 1.5 years but is becoming more noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no play when just turning the wheel left or right while stationary no matter the angle, and I don't think it's ever felt above 20 MPH as it seems to require the wheels to be turned to one side by quite a large amount. It's not easy to reproduce it on demand, but it will be felt once or twice pretty much every time I park or drive off. Unlike most of my experiences with play in mechanical components, it doesn't feel like there's a &quot;return bump&quot; when the components move in the opposite direction again afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which components would be the key suspects here? The car is a Mazda 6 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11369" LastEditorUserId="11369" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T17:47:43.297" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T17:47:43.297" Title="Play in the steering wheel when driving slowly over a bump in a turn" Tags="|mazda|wheels|steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2015-07-18T14:31:35.220" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the car is in D and you start the engine the hydraulic pump in the automatic transmission is not providing fluid pressure until the engine starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fluid pressure is used to engage clutches in the transmission to engage first gear or reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automatic transmission does not have gears like a manual transmission which are physically meshed into one another or engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gears in an automatic transmission are always engaged or locked in but they are coupled to the drive shaft by multiple different clutches that are selected either by you or automatically. This is called the planetary gear and clutch system and it is very difficult to conceptualize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an automatic transmissions N is actually the same as P in that none of the clutches are engaged except in P there is a mechanical connection to an internal transmission brake. This brake has nothing to do with your wheel brakes and it come on mechanically so the engine does not need to be running for it to work. But you should not rely on it alone when parking on steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In D when you’re at a stop the main forward clutches are engaged and the torque converter is providing pressure to rotate the forward gear but it does not rub or wear when it is doing this. Because of this resistance to free rotation in the transmission the engine begins to slow. In a modern car there is an idle control valve which the computer opens to increase air entering the engine so the engine does not stall. So there is actually more air entering and the computer senses this and adds a bit more fuel as well.&#xA;So in D at the light your car will use a little more fuel than if it was in N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the wheel brakes are not rubbing but are stopped and they will not wear at all while holding the forward creep of the car when in D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forward creep is caused by the transmissions torque converter. There is nothing slipping or wearing or heating up to any significant extent in there. It’s all done hydraulically and nothing is wearing to worry about.&#xA;BUT!!!! When you are in N and the engine is turning and the wheels are stopped then for this to occur the main forward clutch is disengaged and it is SLIGHTLY SLIPPING. So the clutch plates are wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are actually wearing out the main wear component in an automatic transmission being the clutch plates if you shift from D to N at a stop. The only advantage is your saving a very small amount on fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I DO NOT and I have been told by an automatic transmission engineer that you should never shift the transmission from D to N at the lights. The reason being you are wearing your clutch plates in your transmissions. It also gets hotter because of the friction and the dirtier transmission oil then contributes to other component failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it’s dangerous to be sitting there in N. You may need to drive away all of a sudden to avoid an accident but in N there is less chance of do this. You also may select the wrong setting like R when you wanted D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If N should be selected at the lights then engineers would have incorporated this into the design.&#xA;But they did not.&#xA;On some fuel saving cars the engine now shuts off at the lights so obviously N is selected automatically by the computer during the shutdown period so the car can be restarted. But the engine is not turning so the clutch plates are not slipping and wearing in this type of fuel efficient car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if your car vibrates in D at the lights then you need to get it serviced. It should not vibrate excessively at the lights if everything is working fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11370" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T22:24:31.153" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T22:24:31.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2015-07-18T14:56:38.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque converters don’t have “Dumps”. I think this person is taking about the pressure relief valve which is relieving hydraulic fluid pressure created by the transmissions hydraulic oil pump. The oil pump is driven direct from the engine. It is independent from the torque converter.  The pump is working if the transmission is in any selection. So in N it is still working. There will be no difference in heat created from the fluid pressure either in D or N. The difference is in N the main clutch is disengaged and is forced to slip and wear also giving off additional heat. It’s the reverse to what this person said.&#xA;So keep it in D at the lights which is what the engineers designed the car to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11370" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T14:56:38.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18581" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:04:23.093" Score="1" ViewCount="21857" Body="&lt;p&gt;In having &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17599/long-silent-delay-before-honda-accord-2003-cranks&quot;&gt;this issue&lt;/a&gt;, I am trying to figure out how to find and replace my starter relay in a Honda Accord 2003. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the starter relay? How can it be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11371" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T14:13:32.077" Title="Replacing Starter Relay on Honda Accord 2003" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|relay|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18568" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:46:19.320" Score="2" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 1986 Lincoln Continental. The issue is that for a while my low beams worked. Then one of my low beams went out, about a week later my other low beam stopped working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here is the kicker, the High beams work, and when the High beams are on - so do the low beams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this question has been asked a few times, but since my vehicle is of such age I cannot find good, layman documentation. I come from owning a 2001 Pontiac so this is all very foreign to me. If someone could help me figure out this issue that'd be awesome. I don't want to spend money on headlights just to have that not be the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11372" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T21:55:12.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:22:56.477" Title="High Beams work, Low beams don't, But . ." Tags="|headlight|lincoln|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:57:33.340" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Jaguar XJ6 4.0, and my question is what is the name of this line coming from the fuel tank. There's 2 lines and they're stripped, and I can't seem to find them anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the tank where the two lines run: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzDV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the line:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zb6fL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the problem is, I don't know the name of this line, and when I type in fuel lines, and other terms for this line, i get something completely opposite of what it is in this image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T16:13:04.083" Title="What is the proper term for this hose line from the fuel tank?" Tags="|jaguar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18556" CreationDate="2015-07-18T17:48:49.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a retired mechanic, I used to work on private car's and some commercial vehicles. The principal of disc brakes is the same although details might differ between car and m/cycle. &#xA;Don't even attempt any brake work unless you are competent and have the right tools.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You mentioned the possibility of a distorted rotor. Can you feel anything untoward when braking - handlebar oscillation or brake lever vibration? If not, you should be OK. The wheel should spin fairly freely and come to a gentle stop.  If it feels sticky or tight and comes to an abrupt stop the caliper will have to be removed. You say it's a new caliper, were any re-used exposed sliding parts cleaned and lubed with the correct grease? Can the pads slide freely where they are mounted? If not it could lead to a partial seizure and a scraping noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11374" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T17:48:49.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18564" CreationDate="2015-07-18T21:58:12.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your headlights are a four headlight system. These are sealed beam headlights. Two of the bulbs are strictly for high-beam use (inside bulbs). Two of the headlights function for both hi/low beams (outside bulbs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each of the hi/low bulbs, there are two separate filaments which work for either of the modes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on with your headlights is the two low-beam filaments have failed. The two hi-beam filaments are still working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get new bulbs for the two outside positions and you should be golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T22:22:56.477" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:22:56.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2015-07-18T23:31:06.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding rust on the rotors, I live in a humid part of the US on a steep hill. After a particularly wet spell and leaving the car parked for a couple of days, I can actually feel the rust on my rotors the first time I brake going down the hill. They feel &quot;scratchy.&quot; That rust wears off after just a few stops, and you can see that they're shiny and smooth again. I once left my car parked for 6 months. The first time I drove it, the rear brake shoes rusted so bad they were stuck to the drums (I left the e-brake on all that time) and the car wouldn't move. I actually had to jack the car up and pull both drums in order to break them loose. Since the rust was not uniform, you could feel pulsating the first few times I braked. But soon the rust wore off and it braked normally again. Though I'm sure rust accelerates the wear, I'm still driving on those same drums and shoes, 30k miles later, and my brakes work perfectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T23:31:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8899" CreationDate="2015-07-19T16:16:28.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an ASE Master certified tech, and have been doing this for 25 years. The likely cause is not the coil or plugs or the air cleaner but the fuel filter. It is probably blocked so the engine can't get the fuel it needs to run correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a common problem with Subarus. I would change the filter and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11377" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T17:42:11.457" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T17:42:11.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18573" CreationDate="2015-07-19T18:32:11.600" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning my valves and the ports, I am about ready to put them back in together.  I have two simple questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I clean the inside of valve guides with a pipe cleaner, that looks like a mini chimney brush?  I already cleaned it really well with an air pistol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8q7rH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pipe cleaner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I first install the valve stem seals and then set the valves back in for lapping or should I lap first and put the stem seal after lapping and right before the rest of assembly (loading the spring)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T19:08:23.733" Title="Valve reassembly" Tags="|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T18:34:20.443" Score="2" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently rear-ended another car at about 15mph in my 1992 Saturn SL2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some minor damage that I repaired easily: broken plastic on the horn, non-functioning light, cracks in plastic bumper, broken plastic fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more substantial damage is a bent radiator (not leaking) and a bent internal metal bumper. The metal bumper behind the plastic and foam was bent enough that it is cracked halfway through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIrj9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than providing protection for collisions, it doesn't seem to be a structural part of the chassis. Is it? What are the consequences of leaving this unrepaired, or a simple repair, like a steel plate over the cracked portion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10815" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T19:02:24.153" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T00:12:17.447" Title="Consequences of cracked metal bumper" Tags="|saturn|damage|sl2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18571" CreationDate="2015-07-19T19:08:23.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should I clean the inside of valve guides with a pipe cleaner, that looks like a mini chimney brush? I already cleaned it really well with an air pistol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray some solvent (like carb cleaner) down the valve guides followed by the air pistol. While I don't think you'd have any issues using the pipe cleaner, I don't really think it would do much for you either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Should I first install the valve stem seals and then set the valves back in for lapping or should I lap first and put the stem seal after lapping and right before the rest of assembly (loading the spring)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait until you have all the valves lapped, everything is cleaned, and are ready for final assembly. The valves will go in first, then the seals on top of the valves, then spring seats, springs, retainers, and keys. Make sure the valve stem is lubed well with oil and be careful with the seals. The tips of the valve stems can be sharp and cause damage to the new seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T19:08:23.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18577" CreationDate="2015-07-19T19:17:20.927" Score="1" ViewCount="3371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Nissan Almera w/ GA16DE engine and there is a small oil leak from the oil pressure sensor and also from the oil pan gasket it seems.  They both seem to be just a few drops here and there, no puddles under the car or anything, although I did see fresh oil drops hanging from the sensor and oil pan area a few days after having the under side of the engine pressure washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I need to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:34:13.203" Title="Oil Pressure Sensor Leak" Tags="|nissan|oil-leak|oil-pan|almera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2015-07-19T19:28:25.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oil leak where you see a drip form, but it doesn't drip is not an &lt;em&gt;immediate&lt;/em&gt; problem. If this is something you don't want to fix right away, there shouldn't be a huge issue. There are two concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep a close eye on the oil and ensure it stays topped off. You'll want to check it a little more often than you would under normal circumstances so as to avoid running your engine dry accidentally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even though you don't see any drips coming off, be assured you are losing oil. This is not good for the environment and should be avoided. While you may not be able to make the fix right away, plan to do this as soon as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where the oil pressure sensor is leaking from, you might be able to fix the issue. If it is leaking from around a threaded area, try and use some teflon tape on it and get the leak fixed. If the sensor is cracked or is leaking from somewhere else, it may just need replacement. Very simple fix and for the most part should be cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the oil pan, you may just see if the oil pan bolts are loose. Try putting a socket on them and see if they will tighten a little. This may stench the flow of the oil. I will caution you not to &lt;em&gt;over tighten&lt;/em&gt; them. This would be easy to do. I don't know what torque value they should be, but don't go cranking down on them because you'll more than likely just make the leak worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T19:28:25.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T19:49:35.783" Score="3" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 70 mph and about 2000 rpm, I have noticed that when i lightly press on the accelerator, the rpm will rise but speed will not increase.  i press a little harder and the rpm will come back down to about 2000 rpm. Transmission fluid and filter were recently changed so levels are good, but there was no change in behavior. Mechanic did mention that the fluid smelled a bit burnt.  This is a rebuilt transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be happening?  I suspect the transmission is going out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11379" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T20:04:22.110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T08:20:06.893" Title="2003 Yukon 5.3 with 278,000" Tags="|automatic-transmission|gmc|4wd|yukon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2015-07-19T20:22:47.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ Paulster2 has stated you need to determine where the sensor is leaking. I would focus my concerns on the oil pressure sensor very soon. The oil sending unit is under pressure, the oil pan is merely a container for the oil.The oil pump has the capacity to empty all the oil out of the engine in less than a minute at high rpm. If the oil sending unit were to fail physically, meaning it fails to seal in the oil, the engine bearings will quickly run out of oil and be damaged. This will require an engine rebuild or new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T20:22:47.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T20:31:57.510" Score="3" ViewCount="2372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I buy a black used bumper and paint it in white by a dealer for my white car? Or do I only have to buy a white bumper or plain (without paint) original for further painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11381" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T23:21:04.477" Title="Paint black bumper in white" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18578" CreationDate="2015-07-19T23:21:04.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as long as there isn't any damage to it, you can do this. You don't even need to get it painted by the dealer. Most body shops (if their worth their mettle) can color match to your car. You'll need to allow them to pull the color code off of the car, then you're golden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easier to get a clean, unpainted one for the body shop to paint, but they can do it. They'll have to scuff the paint which is on there, fix any blemishes, then paint it. If the paint which is on it is not in good shape (cracked or pealing), they'll have to strip it for you, then primer, then paint it. This would cost a little more in the preparation department, but it can still be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T23:21:04.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18576" CreationDate="2015-07-19T23:29:47.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I'd agree with you about the longevity of the current transmission. It sounds like it's slipping. A transmission shop might diagnose a bad solenoid or something which could be allowing the transmission to slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, your Yukon came with the 4L60e transmission, which is a weak tranny for what it is required to do. It really is the weak spot in the drive train. The transfer case can stand up to serious hp/tq. I have no clue why GM put such an anemic tranny in their full size trucks. You may consider having your transmission rebuilt with better parts (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monstertransmission.com/4L60E4L65E-Transmission-Rebuild-Kit-SS-Monster-In-A-Box-2003-06_p_5241.html#.VawynvlVhBc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monster in a Box&lt;/a&gt; kit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T23:29:47.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18563" CreationDate="2015-07-19T23:42:48.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relay is &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kpvi2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HALHb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's in the driver's footwell. I believe it's above the fuse box, around the hood open latch. There's a plastic cover over the relays you'll have to pull off. There's one for the relays and one for the fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should just pull out and the new one can be popped right in. You'll have to pull hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T01:05:40.217" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T01:05:40.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T23:58:29.853" Score="5" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very hot outside. Started car with a/c already on full blast (factor?). Car started shaking, put it in reverse to backup and steering wheel VERY hard to turn and brakes VERY hard to apply. Turned a/c and car off, waited 5 minutes, started it again and drove home with no a/c and no further issues. This has happened before. What is wrong? Help!! And Thank You!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11382" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T11:08:17.700" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T17:42:32.250" Title="On start up car shakes, steering and braking are very HARD on 2006 Nissan Maxima" Tags="|nissan|steering|braking|shaking|maxima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18572" CreationDate="2015-07-20T00:12:17.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is a &lt;strong&gt;structural&lt;/strong&gt; part of the vehicle and an &lt;strong&gt;integral part of the collision management&lt;/strong&gt;. It's there for your protection and &lt;strong&gt;can significantly change the crash characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; of the vehicle causing you or your passengers bodily injury. Also not replacing this can &lt;strong&gt;effect air bag timing&lt;/strong&gt;, setting it off on too minor of a collision or not setting it off when it should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said you should replace it, it may be a bolt on part, if so it's an easy swap and you can get one from a salvage yard or aftermarket collision supplier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T00:12:17.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T02:28:24.320" Score="5" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed some dust in the funnel when I filled my car's tank in a an emergency. Is this dust harmful to the engine? Will the fuel filter remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11385" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T07:49:18.263" Title="Dust in gasoline" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T02:59:20.270" Score="3" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old hovercraft that uses a small aircraft engine in the front to power both the lift and forward propulsion. I was hoping to find any kind of manual or literature on the engine itself. The hovercraft is an Aircycle 410, built in the early 70s. The engine is a two stroke with horizontally opposed cylinders. I am able to get the engine to turn over with a car battery, but I want a little more info on how to apply either oil, gas, or an oil/gas mixture in order to power the machine before I start making random guesses and destroy the thing in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ra4ty.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11386" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T04:26:47.990" Title="JLO Rockwell 2F600" Tags="|oil-change|gasoline|two-stroke|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T03:52:49.617" Score="-1" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Chevy traverse.  I Went to O'rielly's and had an alternator tested.  They said voltage regulator failure.  Had the alternator changed out.  Still showing at a different O'rielly's regulator failure.  Just trying to figure out what is going on with it.  Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11388" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:34:12.253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:34:12.253" Title="2011 Chevy Traverse alternator problems" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18585" CreationDate="2015-07-20T07:49:18.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All modern engines -gasoline or diesel- use fuel injection systems to inject fuel into the cylinder. A single high-pressure pump or two-stage low- and high-pressure pumps are used to bring fuel pressure up to a given level, at which it can be sprayed into the chamber or cylinder through a nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The presence of any type of particle within the fuel can be detrimental at two points of the system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high-pressure pump. This is built to exacting tolerances, so any particles that could get between the moving surfaces will in time cause deterioration through friction. Furthermore, dust particles can contain some silicates (stone), which can be particularly abrasive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The injector nozzle. This may be considered simply as a very small hole, through which fuel passes. In this reference &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandia.gov/ecn/cvdata/targetCondition/injectorNozGeom.php&quot;&gt;Injector Nozzle Geometry&lt;/a&gt; nozzle diameter is given as 0.090mm, meaning that hard particles above this diameter may cause blocking. Even smaller particles, in sufficient quantity could theoretically clog the output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, the fuel filter should be built to eliminate such particles, at least those larger than the maximum size the injector nozzle can handle. This has most surely been taken into account by the manufacturer when designing the vehicle, so if you are using the original type of fuel filter you should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I would be more concerned by the presence of water in the fuel than dust particles - water sensors are present in some 4x4 vehicles, but are not usually found in passenger cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T07:49:18.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18556" CreationDate="2015-07-20T08:59:22.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the front wheel should spin more freely than the rear, for as you note, there is less on it to drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Steve says, a non-flat rotor would result in oscillation or pulsing when braking, which should be pretty obvious on a bike. You can check it for flatness using a dial gauge (or run-out gauge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspects would be a sticking caliper, or a failing flexi hose - either of these would prevent the brake from being fully released when you release the handle, causing it to drag. The heat and increased fuel consumption are both symptoms of a dragging wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility would be a failing bearing increasing the rolling resistance of the wheel itself. This is easily checked by removing the caliper (or the pads if they cam be removed separately), then spinning the wheel without the brakes present - it should spin very freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T08:59:22.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18588" CreationDate="2015-07-20T10:19:09.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could just be you got a bad alternator from O'Reilly's. Have them replace the unit for free. With re-manufactured parts, it happens. Have then test the new unit in the store before you leave to ensure you don't have to do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T10:19:09.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18586" CreationDate="2015-07-20T10:46:00.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagesnow.com/Engine_manuals_files/2F-440-3_SM.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maintenance manual&lt;/a&gt; for another JLO 2-cyl 2-stroke engine. While it isn't exactly the same, I would bet the maintenance would be the same between the models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, since the motor is air cooled, ensure the fans and shrouding are in place on motor before you try to start it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some searching, your engine (and variants) were used &lt;em&gt;extensively&lt;/em&gt; in snow machines for the late 60's, early 70's. There seems to be parts/motors available for replacement, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T10:46:00.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T12:41:18.310" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in part of the world where dust is a very serious issue. I get my car washed and can find lot of dust on body within hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any easy and cheap method to clean car body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11326" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T03:58:10.780" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T10:54:17.693" Title="Car body cleaning is a tedious job" Tags="|cleaning|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24532" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:04:56.727" Score="6" ViewCount="12782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently noticed a clicking noise from the front differential on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado when traveling at low speeds (under 10 MPH, but I'm sure it's always there, but it's too fast/too much road noise which makes it impossible to hear at faster speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's coming from the front, and I even removed the tire and the driver's axleshaft and rotated the shaft coming out of the front differential directly and I still heard/felt the clicking noise from the front differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what I have eliminated/things I have tried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the wheel bearing since it wasn't turning once I disconnected the axleshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the inner or outer CV joints for the same reason as above (and I replaced it for good measure since I had it out... and it looked original)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the U-Joint coming from the transfer case because the 4 wheel drive was disengaged when I was spinning the axleshaft by hand which would not have turned the transfer case &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially locked 4 wheel drive/bad vacuum solenoid. I eliminated this by driving the car and putting it into 4 wheel drive. There was a definite shift in power but the clicking was still there. I only attempted this because I have heard that the solenoid can get partially engaged constantly, which might have explained the clicking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have yet to do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace front differential fluid. I know this is an obvious one, but I didn't have what I needed to do it yesterday because I had originally suspected the wheel bearing. Also, on the advice of my wife's uncle, when I change the fluid I will check the old fluid for any signs of issues. I know to look for metal shavings, but &lt;strong&gt;is there anything else I should look for in the old fluid?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to my mechanic to check it out. I definitely trust my mechanic but I'm trying to find out &lt;strong&gt;is there anything else I can try changing/troubleshooting before taking it to my mechanic?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastEditorUserId="7859" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T13:17:15.333" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:24:28.107" Title="2000 Chevrolet Silverado - Clicking Noise From Front Differential" Tags="|drivetrain|4wd|differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18594" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:09:53.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calcarduster.com/products.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;California Car Duster&lt;/a&gt; which allows you to pull off the dust without damaging the finish. I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/29355-static-electricity-dust-attraction-your-car-s-paint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on AutoGeekOnline.com which gives the basics of &lt;em&gt;why static electricity happens&lt;/em&gt;. It basically states there is no way to get around the attraction of dust to paint, but gives some ways to help mitigate some of the effects. Other than that, washing is your next best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: I like the @JuannStrauss suggestion of a car cover as well, especially if you don't have a garage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T13:09:53.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18594" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:57:23.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although its impossible to keep your car clean all the time without effort you can follow the below steps to keep it somewhat tidy avoiding the whole cleaning conundrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to park away from trees, they attract dust, leaves, twigs and bird droppings.(if you want shade , use car cover.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When driving over puddles , drive slowly ,avoiding splashes near the wheel arches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible after a drive on a rainy day, hosing down the car with clean water will avoid the dirt from solidifying and more importantly will avoid rusting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid driving with the windows down as the dust will clog on the fabric on the roof of the car which is a pain to get rid off.(May god save you if you have beige interiors , kidding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;often clean the central console with a cloth , gives clean look to the passengers and you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the windscreen as often as possible , signs of a clean car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the wheel caps and alloys, functions same as the above point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the car cover, many people don't realise that a dirty car cover will actually defeat the purpose of covering the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T14:02:32.947" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T14:02:32.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18974" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:00:45.633" Score="2" ViewCount="5266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still in the process of changing my 2009 Nissan Sentra CVT fluid. But now I'm stuck, well, me and the &lt;code&gt;pan bolt&lt;/code&gt; are stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the combination wrench but couldn't get enough leverage. Took the ratchet and socket out, used a hollow metal tube as leverage and all I could get was  the poor ratchet broken in pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt is a &lt;code&gt;19mm&lt;/code&gt; with a metal washer underneath it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/najJ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The arrow marks the bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to heat the thing up, since the pan is full of flammable oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be immensely apreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:47:33.687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T22:47:33.687" Title="Remove Transmission Oil Pan Stuck Bolt" Tags="|transmission|stuck-bolt|oil-pan|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:30:16.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you have tried to spray loads of penetrating fluid on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, from the sound of it, I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out without heat so at this point it would be best to drop the whole oilpan so you can work on it separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be messy and sucks to do but like you said it shouldn't be done with oil in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T14:30:16.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:32:00.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure you are trying to turn it the right way. (ie: righty tighty [clockwise] lefty loosey [counter-clockwise]) Seeing as how the vehicle is upside down to you (since you are underneath), it's easy to get turned around and applying torque in the wrong direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your combination wrench back on the nut and hit the open end with a hammer (in the correct direction, of course). This will act like an impact driver on the plug and hopefully loosen it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either of these methods do not work, heat is your only other recourse. The problem is, the oil in the tranny will absorb most of that heat. There wouldn't be enough oxygen in there to allow it to burn, though you could scorch the fluid. That is an iffy proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Also try a pair of vice grips in the same manner, though you'd need to find a replacement after that. Beyond that, there is the option of just removing the pan itself. It would require a new pan gasket, but may be worth it. Easy access since you have it in the air already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T18:03:08.467" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T18:03:08.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18603" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:32:26.880" Score="5" ViewCount="15163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing a rear bumper cover on my 2004 Subaru Impreza, and the cheapest deal I can find is a brand new, unpainted unit. My question is whether it is important to paint it, they way it would be important to paint unfinished metal parts. It's plastic, so rust obviously not an issue. Is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will come black, my car is dark green, and the trim is meant to be grey, so I'm not really too concerned about the aesthetics, and would love to save the cash on a professional paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be willing to do the paint job myself, but the appropriate paint layers add up to quite a lot, even without professional labor. Is there a cheaper solution to painting this thing? I'm guessing a few cans of grey spray paint won't get the job done, and I'd prefer to leave it black if the alternative is a poor paint job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T02:40:40.657" Title="Do I need to paint my bumper?" Tags="|subaru|paint|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18602" CreationDate="2015-07-20T15:01:11.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While painting a bumper at home is always possible, you would need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the surface correctly: clean off the products used to de-mold the plastic, sand the part if there is a granular relief motive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the appropriate primer. Specific primers may be used for the paint to stick to the plastic correctly, and even better primers that have some flex to them in order to avoid cracks when dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply 2-3 layers of paint. Not too many, or the end result may be too thick and again, cause cracking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several layers of varnish may also be needed, specifically for metallic paints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have access to professional paint -and the installation to apply it correctly (dust-free shop with filtered ventilation) - chances are the end result will stand out as just what it is - a botch job with spray cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, there are many vehicles around (mostly little city cars, not Imprezas, but still...) with plain, unpainted plastic bumpers. As you note, the plastic material will hold up perfectly without any need to be painted. The only point to note is that, if exposed to strong sunlight, it will end up going a bit whitish as years go by (5-6 years to be noticeable). There is no legal requirement to paint the bumper, and small scratches and dents will stand out much less than painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the black rear bumper contrasts a bit with the front (painted), you can always also change the front bumper for a second-hand unpainted one, perhaps later on, and the optical impression of the car will be more unified once more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T16:17:26.250" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T16:17:26.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18437" CreationDate="2015-07-20T15:27:06.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect issues in two components of your car but since you have already mentioned that Honda people have had a look not 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged up Intake: I know it sounds very trivial but a clogged up intake is sometimes overlooked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty EGR system: Almost al of the symptoms you suggest are very much mimicking the symptoms for a faulty EGR valve here are the things you can do to verify it, take it to honda for further inspection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for Open / Stuck EGR valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for carbon clogging on the valve, i would suggest double checking it , using some sort of probing material to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the EVP sensor (EGR valve position sensor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also some cars have Differential pressure sensors which sort of are a mix or mechanical and electronic EGRs , I am not sure if your car uses this, but I would suggest having a look at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddFz1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally , replace the entire assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving without the EGR connected will not be a problem and might slightly affect your fuel economy( many times not noticeable). Many performance modders remove this component thinking it improves performance but it does not since EGR is always 100% closed at 100% throttle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: If i was in your place i would ask a honda service person to  ride with me and escalate the issue , honda is 100% liable to provide you with a solution  Do not go easy on them , since your are ready to pay for(and have already paid) the solution. I feel honda is being lazy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T15:34:52.507" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T15:34:52.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18594" CreationDate="2015-07-20T15:59:08.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After washing and drying the car, apply one or more coats of car polish and finishing / sealing wax.  You will find this makes the paintwork &quot;slippery&quot; and makes it more difficult for the dust to stick to the paintwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T15:59:08.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18565" CreationDate="2015-07-20T16:13:04.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are quick couplers for the fuel lines.. A bugger to find second hand as most people wreck them taking them off but you can buy them new from Jaguar Heritage/Classic parts in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T16:13:04.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T17:30:18.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1789" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for my lack of mechanical English experience) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 95 Mustang. When I made my first test drive all was well, except a problem with my disc brake (they aren't even) but this doesn't seem to be the problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days later I picked the car up (it had only been moved from the aerial work platform down). Then both the ABS as the parking l break lights kept burning. Since I'm in Europe (Netherlands) the USA Fords aren't that common and I couldn't find anybody with an OBD1 device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I visited a couple of garages, all say different things ... Also the manual appears to be clear: the two lights are, usually, unrelated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms: shocking brakes, harder when going faster (higher frequency), both felt on the steering wheel as the brake peddle ... when really slow, it feels like the feedback on the brake peddle corresponds to the frequency of turning tires. When I break hard, the cars simply stops ... brakes appear to work too good to test the abs. (We had strange good whether)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pull the hand brake, the lights glow a bit more ... seems like a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggested diagnoses: broken ABS pump - argument was: is usually the ABS pump (not a convincing argument). Sensor near the disc brakes, worn. Braking fluid pump, because when pumping the brakes, the warning lights appear to be burning more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can the problem be? (Unrelated but annoyingly, it is difficult to get the right equipment sent to Europe, why?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I got even more confused on the OBD system. According to resources the Mustangs up to '95 use OBD1, whereas starting from '96 they use OBD2. But the manual is talking about &lt;code&gt;OBD II Drive Cycle&lt;/code&gt; (mandatory in Illinois). But what is the relation between the OBD system, and the &lt;code&gt;OBD II Drive Cycle&lt;/code&gt;, if any? (I sure hope I have the &lt;code&gt;OBD I&lt;/code&gt;, because the order is on a boat to Europe :p)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Got the OBD1 scanner, apparently only the '95 Mustang Cobra needs the OBD1, the V6 needs the OBD2 scanner... (great :s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I was sort of correct with &lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;. The '95 Mustang V6 has an &lt;code&gt;OBDII&lt;/code&gt; system for motor diagnostics. But a OBDI system for &lt;code&gt;ABS&lt;/code&gt;. (Loving it :p)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Problem code : &lt;code&gt;63&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Useful link for ABS codes Mustang 94-98: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Mustang-1994-1998-Repair-Guide/ANTI-LOCK-BRAKE-SYSTEM/Testing-and-Diagnosis/_/P-0900c152802511bc#hd1-1-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Mustang-1994-1998-Repair-Guide/ANTI-LOCK-BRAKE-SYSTEM/Testing-and-Diagnosis/_/P-0900c152802511bc#hd1-1-1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;For errors 12,19,61,63, and 69 -&gt; &lt;code&gt;use pinpoint test E&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Quote Pinpoint E test from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/abs-code-61-pump-motor-relay.805709/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/abs-code-61-pump-motor-relay.805709/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PINPOINT TEST E: HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR AND RELAY&#xA;&#xA;E1 CHECK 60A ABS FUSE&#xA;l Check the 60A ABS fuse located in the LH engine compartment power distribution panel.&#xA;l Is the fuse OK?&#xA;Yes&#xA;GO to «E4».&#xA;No&#xA;GO to «E2».&#xA;E2 CHECK HYDRAULIC MOTOR SYSTEM&#xA;l Ignition switch OFF.&#xA;l Replace the 60A ABS fuse.&#xA;l Inspect the fuse.&#xA;l Does the fuse fail again?&#xA;Yes&#xA;GO to «E3».&#xA;No&#xA;GO to «E4».&#xA;E3 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND IN HYDRAULIC MOTOR POWER CIRCUIT&#xA;l Ignition switch OFF.&#xA;l Remove the 60A ABS fuse.&#xA;l Remove cover from hydraulic control unit.&#xA;l Disconnect the 16-pin connector located at the hydraulic control unit.&#xA;Note: Circuit 601 changes color from LB/PK to R as it passes through the harness connector.&#xA;l Measure the resistance of Circuit 601 (R) between the 60A ABS fuse terminal and ground.&#xA;l Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?&#xA;Yes&#xA;GO to «E4».&#xA;No&#xA;SERVICE Circuit 601 (R) between the engine compartment fuse panel and the hydraulic control unit.&#xA;E4 CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT&#xA;l Ignition switch OFF.&#xA;l Disconnect the hydraulic control unit connector.&#xA;Note: Circuit 601 changes color from LB/PK to R as it passes through the harness connector.&#xA;l Ignition switch ON.&#xA;l Measure the voltage on Circuit 601 (R) at the hydraulic actuator assembly connector.&#xA;l Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?&#xA;Yes&#xA;GO to «E5».&#xA;No&#xA;SERVICE Circuit 601 (R) between the engine compartment fuse panel and the hydraulic control unit.&#xA;&#xA;E5 CHECK HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY GROUND&#xA;l Ignition switch OFF.&#xA;l Measure the resistance of the BK wire between the screw terminal on the right side of the hydraulic control assembly and ground.&#xA;l Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?&#xA;Yes&#xA;REPLACE ABS unit.&#xA;No&#xA;SERVICE the BK wire.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom of shocking was resolved, as expected, by (no clue of the English term) making the disks flat again¿, and cleaning the brakes. Now 'only' the &lt;code&gt;63&lt;/code&gt; message remain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11402" LastEditorUserId="11402" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T18:39:29.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T18:39:29.677" Title="Mustang 95 hand brake and abs problem lights on" Tags="|ford|abs|mustang|warning-light|handbrake|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18543" CreationDate="2015-07-20T17:36:20.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AC hoses generally have very long service life which, in my experience, usually exceed the life of the vehicle.  If the system passes a vacuum and/or leak test then inspecting the outside is generally all that's needed to detect if there is any impending issues about to happen (hose wise).  To determine their serviceability you should check for the following things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cuts, nicks, or other abrasions.  Vibrations and poor routing may cause stresses on the hoses slowly wearing them down.  If this is happening it might be worth it to replace the hoses now rather than waiting for total failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stress cracks on the any fittings or ferrules.  Again, vibrations, or even removing the hoses can stress the ends.  Visually inspecting them you can usually detect stress points before they fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old, dry hoses will out-gas your refrigerant. This will be detectable as an normal rubber hose.  They will be visible dry cracking on the outside.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoses can become gummed up inside as well.  The AC system holds both refrigerant and oil.  Over time the system does take on moisture which the accumulator should be removing.  If it has exceeded its capacity the oil can slim up and coat the inside of the hoses.  You should not need to replace them due to this.  If you're doing a overhaul part of that process should be to flush the AC lines with an solvent solution approved for you AC lines/hoses.  This should clean out any built up gunk and flush any metallic particles suck to the insides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:36:20.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18617" CreationDate="2015-07-20T18:28:10.520" Score="3" ViewCount="29542" Body="&lt;p&gt;When replacing a starter (or reinstalling the old one), should the pinion that powers the flywheel (is that actually the flywheel?) be greased or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-06-14T11:40:44.627" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T09:55:05.707" Title="Should starter pinion be greased?" Tags="|starter|gears|grease|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16814" CreationDate="2015-07-20T19:31:53.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are mentioning that your windows, mirrors, and etc electrical things are not working correctly. The issue could be in your electrical wiring, sensors, relays. Also you said you tried to start it and it wouldn't start the next day after it was running fine the day before. That tells me that your alternator might not be keeping your battery charged. Could also be something in your ignition system. But probably caused by bad electrical and/or alternator malfunctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T19:31:53.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18611" CreationDate="2015-07-20T20:19:30.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those solid &quot;maybe&quot; answers. If you have access, I would consult the manufacturers assembly/repair manuals for your vehicle.  That will be the most correct information for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it is generally not done, but in most cases a small amount won't hurt.  It is not a continuously lubricated part nor is it usually something that is lubricated on a maintenance schedule.  If the starter is shimmed to spec for its engagement with the flywheel you should have no issues with it engaging or disengaging.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T20:19:30.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2015-07-20T20:22:02.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not have ABS Brakes, the brakes will lock up when you make an unexpected sharp stop. But it sounds like there is not enough pressure (or vacuum) being made. Since the brakes go to the floor when making a stop and you know that there is not fluid leaking, that means that either the problem is the master cylinder, or the power brake booster. The brake booster uses vacuum pressure to amplify the pressure put on the brakes. If the booster is bad, than the full amount of force to needed to activate the master cylinder and pressurize the brake fluid will not be there. Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T20:22:02.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18611" CreationDate="2015-07-20T20:34:57.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the answer is &quot;no&quot;. You should leave both the ring gear on the flywheel (standard shift tranny) or flexplate (automatic tranny) and the gear on the Bendix dry. As @elmerfud stated, as long as the starter is shimmed to spec for its engagement, you'll have no issues with it. Both the ring gear and the Bendix gear are built to take the punishment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you consider the overall use of the starter gears in comparison to the rest of the vehicle, &lt;em&gt;they really don't get used much&lt;/em&gt;. Besides, if you put grease on these gears, where it is at will attract dirt and abrasives. This will cause wear if you are not doing a continual maintenance on them (cleaning both gears and regreasing on a regular schedule). This is something not only do you not want to do, it's something which doesn't need to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T20:34:57.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2015-07-20T20:52:45.987" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try and see if you can get hold of Castrol waterpump grease and use that instead  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11410" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T20:52:45.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2015-07-21T00:34:42.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More likely is your ECU, it's mounted on the front of the engine, it includes the fuel pump relay internally. The cost for a ECU is about $92.00 USD, you can do it yourself. One connector and 2 bolts. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11412" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T09:46:55.617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T09:46:55.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T04:55:20.500" Score="5" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 95 Vento GL (Jetta for the american market), with an 1.8 8v, 90hp ADD model engine. The ECU for this model is marked with part number &lt;code&gt;037 906 021A&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked with VAG-COM software and it shows a code &lt;code&gt;00532&lt;/code&gt; that says &quot;Supply voltage B+&quot;. This means the car has a bad grounding issue, that may be causing problems with fuel economy and hesitation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I have changed my lambda sensor because the car is black smoking and idles very bad, and when I came to unplug the old sensor I found out that a black wire was broke, but I couldn't find the other part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed to the ECU and found that from the same terminal comes a red wire, but I couldn't determine where it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone has a pin diagram of the ECU so I can check out and confirm that this black wire is the ground that is missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11415" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T17:54:23.763" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:54:23.763" Title="1995 VM Jetta/Vento - ECU pinout for my car" Tags="|vw|electronic-control-module|fuel-injection|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T08:22:52.533" Score="3" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent a crazy amount of money on my car lately and I still have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catalyst Converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter Motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Rod ends &amp;amp; Wheel Bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have still is that when I start the car in the morning or after work.. So the car has been resting for more than 7/8 hours. At around 1500-2000 revolutions the ASR light comes on a the engine starts to shake like made. Leaving the car to warm-up for 10 minutes or so sometimes cures the problem. And  once I try to pull ofF from low revs with the ASR stuck on.. The car shudders. Can anyone identify what is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm so fed up of the it. I bought it for around £2200 and i've probably spent that much on repairs.. labour costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:35:24.103" Title="VW Golf 2001 Mk4 Diesel ASR Engine Problem" Tags="|engine|electrical|vw|diesel|egr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:49:20.297" Score="2" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive my car a lot. I do lot of experiments with speeds while driving.&#xA;Following are my observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving at 60 - 70 km/h gives maximum mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving at 70 - 90 km/h gives good mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving above 90 km/h gives poor mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above observations are measured while driving in top gear (5th gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand driving at 60 we get maximum mileage but there is not much difference in mileage while driving between 70 - 90 km/h&#xA;why is it so, can anybody explain this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11326" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T12:59:23.693" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T00:13:51.650" Title="Mileage varies by driving at different speeds" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18628" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:11:43.050" Score="2" ViewCount="4325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to have a fuel pressure regulator of a petrol car lying around left by the previous owner and suspect that it might be still good, since the previous owner was just changing parts randomly hoping to fix a certain problem. How would one check if the regulator is still good for use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand the main cause of FPR failure is a ruptured diaphragm inside the metal casing that separates vacuum side from fuel side causing petrol leakage into the vacuum pipe. Does that mean if I blow on the vacuum inlet and no air leaks through - the membrane is still good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcYGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:57:27.650" Title="Checking a fuel pressure regulator that is out of the car" Tags="|fuel-system|testing|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:13:30.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a clutch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Clutch is a simple device though not exclusive to auto mobiles which allow two gears/shafts of different speed to be synchronized in a smooth manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In vehicles, the clutch is used to connect/disconnect the transmission and the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does it do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the clutch acts like a brake for the engine that is why improper shifting can cause your car or bike to stall, the clutch slows down the engine so that the wheels can catch up.(very rudimentary explanation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the parts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PATpC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The above diagram shows the basic form of most clutches.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch has these three parts sandwiched together creating friction and syncing the engine and the wheels(through gearbox).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The flywheel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To represent the engine we have the flywheel which is attached to the crank and it moves with the engine.The clutch disc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The clutch disc&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the flywheel and the pressure plate is the clutch disc. The clutch disc has friction surfaces similar to a brake pad on both sides that make or break contact with the metal flywheel and pressure plate surfaces, allowing for smooth engagement and disengagement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Pressure Plate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the clutch pedal is depressed, the pressure plate releases, allowing itself and the flywheel to spin independent of the disc, which prevents torque from being transmitted from the engine to the gearbox. Generally made of cast iron or steel, the pressure plate uses a diaphragm-type spring to apply force against the disc once engaged, which is fastened to the assembly by a series of straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throw out Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throwout bearing sits against the pressure plate in either a push-style or pull-style arrangement that compresses the diaphragm and releases the disc when the clutch pedal is depressed. Once force is applied, the diaphragm releases tension, allowing the disc to spin independent of the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below two images will show how clutch works when engaged and disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disengaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8xIM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVz2q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Types of clutch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of clutches in the bike world  DRY and WET/Oil bathed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wet clutch is where the entire assembly is immersed in engine oil and is lubricated by it, due to viscosity of the oil , some power loss can be attributed to this approach but they significantly improve the life of the clutch and reduce sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dry clutch as the name suggests does not have anything between the whole mechanism , it is much better at transferring the power since there is no 3rd party material restricting it but , they are loud and create a rattling sound and life of the clutch is low compared to wet setup( most Ducati are known for having dry clutches and is one of the defining sounds of a Ducati)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slipper clutch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In motorbikes engine braking can cause the rear wheel to lock up , this kind of slipper clutch will just slip over the gear and will not engage it unless rpms are matched, mostly a safety feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to improve performance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply adding additional clutch plates will make the system engage much faster and more efficiently ( coming close to dry clutch setup) the problem is that the outer pads will wear out a bit faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:13:30.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18623" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:25:18.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mileage of a car is based on a ton of factors but since you are concerned with a specific speed range it comes down to one thing Air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air resistance: There is very minimal difference in the air viscosity between 70 to 90 kmph but when you go more than 110 the air starts to get thick , simply put , if your car's aerodynamics are optimum to handle a particular speed then it will be more efficient at that range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since your car is a 1.2 it will be happy to cruise at those speeds , always remember a big engine working at smaller RPMs will be much more economical when compared to a smaller engine working at maximum load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:25:18.950" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18621" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:35:24.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Classic fuel starvation, probably caused by an old, gummed up fuel filter.  Replace the fuel filter and purge the injectors (remove them from the head, crank the engine a few times and clean the injectors thoroughly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't solve things get the fault codes read as it could be something like a problem with the injector loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:35:24.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18624" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:57:27.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best (read: &lt;em&gt;easiest&lt;/em&gt;) method to check this is doing it on vehicle. In that case, you put a fuel pressure gauge on the engine at the Schraeder valve (if so equipped) and check the fuel pressure at idle and ensure you have the proper pressure. Then pull the vacuum line to and check the pressure again, which should have changed (it should go up between 5-7 psi). Another check on engine is to see if there is fuel coming out of the vacuum port. If so, it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the diaphragm is the most common failure, you could also have a valve failure or a spring failure as well. I don't believe you can check for these off of the car, unless you have specialized test equipment. You may be able to do it by using hand held vacuum pump and see if the diaphragm will hold a vacuum. The tool looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxiAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:57:27.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18630" CreationDate="2015-07-21T13:34:16.387" Score="3" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this true or false? Without vacuum leak, the first few times you pump the brake, you can still get some of the vacuum assisted braking. I'm trying to diagnose suspected vacuum leak in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T13:43:34.270" Title="If there is a vacuum leak, after you shut off engine, there should be no assisted braking immediately" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2015-07-21T13:43:34.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is true if there is a vacuum leak in the braking system, if that is what you are asking. You should be able to run the engine so there is a vacuum draw at the assist canister. You can either have a gauge on this to check for vacuum (exact measurement), or you could pull the vacuum line between the check valve and the vacuum assist canister and listen for the rush of atmosphere as goes back into the assist canister. Not a very scientific method, but it gives you a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best method would be to put a gauge between the check valve and the canister and see how the vacuum holds over time. A small leak wouldn't register very quickly, but would show itself over time. A small leak may not be very detrimental, but could be an indicator of things to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T13:43:34.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16814" CreationDate="2015-07-21T13:47:11.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is either the alternator that has problem or there is some lights or similar that are constantly draining the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know how to repair cars nor have a lot of money to fix cars, do not drive European cars. Your car do not seems to have serious problem but may cause a few thousand to fix because any small problem also costs quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a battery charger say 3-5A rating and charge overnight. if car don't go alright, then change the alternator. If car goes alright, then check draining device. I can clue you in later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T13:47:11.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18623" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:07:18.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it is not due to aerodynamics. It has got to do with designed optimal engine rpm. Your 1.2L car is not really designed to run best at highway speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:07:18.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11558" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:16:29.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with dipping. Plastic can only last a few years under the sun's uv. real paint job last at least 10 years. No comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:16:29.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18545" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:24:49.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just do it yourself. It is a beginer's job. Parts only costs less than $100. Watch Youtube to learn. The belt is quite important as it powers everything from alternator to powersteering and could leave you stranded. However nowadays most cars have automatic tensioner, which is a bit like point and shoot camera, not much can go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:24:49.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15529" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:25:20.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not there to say exactly, but would suggest they probably aren't interchangable. I'd get the one which you researched to be correct. You might be able to sell the one which you don't need on Cragslist at a reduced price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible that they intended to replace the actual O2 filter in the rear of the car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the &quot;filter&quot; in the image from rockauto, the only way to change this is through changing the O2 sensor itself. Looking at the rockauto page, it shows this is the correct O2 for your vehicle ... but it doesn't say whether it is for the front or rear (which I'd expect to see). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:25:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15475" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:27:40.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's where I'm thinking, you either need to take the cowl apart ... or if the other place, you'll need to pull the fender off of that side. Not a lot of fun either way. If the tool is made of steel, you may be able to get an extendable magnet and fish it out. Not a perfect method, but might save a lot of trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:27:40.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:29:45.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tire pressure sensors are not in the tire, but part of the anti-lock brake system. The wheel speed sensor is used to track the rotation of the tire. When it becomes out of sync with the other three, it shows on the dash as a low tire indication (I don't know what the differential has to be to register, though I bet it is manufacturer dependent). What I'm thinking is you might have upset the sensor somehow which caused the light to come on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:29:45.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23777" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:37:39.517" Score="4" ViewCount="9006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have scratched my car tonight reversing in the garage, when I turned the wheel I scratched the front to a concrete column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Subaru Impreza Wagon 2007, white&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a link to a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHPKv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MycQ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I fix it with WD40 ? The car is white and scratches are black so I am wondering if that's a bit too deep for a quick fix ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I call insurance for that ? Or should I just go to a smash repair and get it repaired ... Would that cost me less than a 1000 dollars ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your answers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11421" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:36:50.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:36:50.593" Title="Scratch front bumper white car" Tags="|subaru|car|repair|paint-scratches|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23114" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:47:13.030" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;For phones you can find ratings based on ease and cost of repairability (assuming you do everything yourself).&#xA;Is there such a source for choosing a motorbike or car that you want to maintain yourself completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:25:28.390" Title="Is there a source assessing repairability of motorbikes and cars?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15351" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:49:41.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is still burning oil as you describe, I can think of several things which might be wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When replacing the rings, you clocked the rings wrong. If all of the ring gaps line up, you'll pump oil into the cylinder (gives a straight shot for oil to pass). You'll also lose compression.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you didn't hone the cylinders correctly or didn't at least bust the glaze in the cylinders, your rings will not seat, which can provide an avenue for oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rings were not broken in correctly, this could cause ring seat issues as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a combination of any of the three causing the oil burning issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:49:41.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15351" CreationDate="2015-07-21T15:00:10.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Paulster2 that it seems to be related to the piston ring replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the valve stem seals might be worn, although the symptoms you describe are not quite right, and it would smoke at start-up and long periods of idling (pulling away after sitting at traffic lights, for example). Just my 2 cent's worth. Maybe a silly question, but are there any visible oil leaks under the vehicle or in around the engine bay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you find the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T15:00:10.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18639" CreationDate="2015-07-21T15:11:41.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those scratches cannot be taken out using WD-40. It's a very good cleaner and lubricant, but is not a magic panacea for fixing paint scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to take it to a body shop where they would have to strip the bumper and repaint it (could possibly blend the area through sanding and repaint as well). They'd have to make the call on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scratches are too deep, you may end up having to purchase a new front cover and have it painted. With the prices of these lately, this may be the better and &lt;em&gt;cheaper&lt;/em&gt; option overall, depending on the amount of time it would take to recondition yours. I'm sure the body shop will tell you which is the better option cost wise, especially if you come to them with cash (not using your insurance company). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are handy, replacing the cover shouldn't be too difficult. You could buy a new one yourself, get it painted, then replace the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any of these three options, I would think you could get it done for under a $1000 (at least here in the States) ... especially if doing the last option. I recently had to replace the one on my Mother-In-Law's car. It was &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; less than $1000 to do and the color match was perfect. This is subjective though, so may be different in your area. The only way to know is to get a quote from your body shop (or a couple, for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T15:11:41.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15234" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:09:24.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the problem you are having is not with the bushings, but with the geometry of the aftermarket control arm and lowering. When you make changes (like lowering) you have to consider the trade-offs. Bump-steer is one of them. If it is not done absolutely correct, you'll experience these types of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Today after all of the ice has melted, my hood latch cable is slightly dangling but when I take sharp turns I hear a popping sound like it's a ball joint. Would you suspect criminal mischief? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. I would not suspect that. More than likely something failed in the car which has allowed it to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:09:24.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15183" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:16:29.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiberglass would be a lot easier than Kevlar ... but I'm wondering if you are actually thinking of Carbon Fiber? Carbon Fiber is used quite often in doing what you are talking about (including vacuuming it), but I guess if you are looking for a bullet-proof dash, the Kevlar would work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would like to avoid vacuuming... can I do that with carbon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. The only time they use vacuum and heat on carbon fiber is when it is a structural piece which utilizes heat activated resin to cure it up solid. Carbon fiber sheets are a bit more expensive than fiberglass, but it lays down about the same. You can cut it with scissors, form it, glue it, let it cure, then do final shaping on it. Plus it can look cool in the &quot;natural&quot; form, or you can just paint it the same as your dash. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=carbon%20fiber%20sheets%20and%20resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt; may help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-1212-how-to-lay-up-carbon-fiber-at-home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article from Hot Rod Magazine&lt;/a&gt; did a pretty good job of explaining how to lay down some CF for a small part. It should give you some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could I apply a parting wax directly to my (plastic) dash and use it as the template, or should I try to make a mold out of something else? Also, carbon is very pricey compared to kevlar/fiber. So if the process is identical, I think I'll use kevlar or fiberglass. Carbon is $60/m wheras fiberglass is $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you are looking to cover the hole (make it flush) or if you are going to create a plug, or possibly just replace the plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon Fiber is a bit more expensive than fiberglass, that's for sure. There is just something about fiberglass I don't like, lol! Fiberglass would work just fine for what you want to do though.&#xA;I mean, it isn't structural support you are looking for, just trying to fill the hole, right?&#xA;As far as Kevlar goes, you'd probably want to paint it after you're done, because (IMHO) it's just plain ugly in its natural state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:16:29.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18649" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:20:51.720" Score="10" ViewCount="3616" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the comments on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18623/mileage-varies-by-driving-at-different-speeds&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; reminded me of something I've been wondering for a while. Given that engines get the best efficiency at peak torque, why do most hybrid cars still use a mechanical transmission (which requires the engine to change speed with roadspeed, as in a conventional car), rather than electrical, with the engine running at a constant rate as a generator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply a case of giving people what they are used to? bearing in mind that pure-electric cars obviously have electric transmission...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trains have been using diesel-electric transmission since at least the 1950s, so it's not exactly a new concept...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T16:04:36.247" Title="Why do hybrids still use mechanical transmission?" Tags="|transmission|hybrid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:47:12.403" Score="1" ViewCount="1988" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screeching noise has been going on for about 4 months. It stops after it has started and does not make the sound again until it has set all day of over night&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11425" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T17:41:38.690" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:41:38.690" Title="My 2009 Pontiac Vibe makes a screeching noise at startup but stops after it starts up" Tags="|noise|pontiac|vibe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18647" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:00:54.640" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of hybrid car you are talking about. In one type of hybrid, there will be a gasoline engine and at least one electric engine capable of driving the wheels. In this case, the gasoline engine must still use a transmission because it cannot be revved too high without causing major damage or shortened life. One possible solution to this transmission issue would be to use a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT), which can be more expensive to manufacture but keeps the engine at peak efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other type of hybrid, where the wheels are driven entirely by electric motors (and has a gasoline generator to charge the battery) does not require a transmission because electric motors have a very wide range of acceptable RPM. Additionally, electric motors have a relatively flat torque curve and the max torque is available instantly. I should note that this type of &quot;hybrid&quot; car is generally just called an electric vehicle (EV) since the gasoline motor is used to charge the battery only and does not drive the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to comment this, but don't have the reputation:&#xA;The diesel-electric transmission you referred to is more closely related to today's EVs in that a diesel engine charges batteries, which then in turn power electric motors at the wheels. Transmissions in trains are impractical for several reasons (such as need to power up to four axles and the number of gears that would be required to keep it at peak efficiency) and this eliminates the need for a true transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T17:10:54.913" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:10:54.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:05:27.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern fuel-injected cars can idle for over an hour on a gallon of gas, so saving a sip of fuel just doesn't amount to much. When you use your engine to decline down a hill, your ECU recognizes that the engine is operating at an RPM higher than idle, so fuel feed is nearly cut off at the injectors - some automatics completely shut off fuel until RPM drops closer to required idle speed. In a manual transmission car, I'm not sure how the fuel delivery system is handled.&#xA;In my own cars, I rarely use brakes on a downhill - engaged gears take care of that issue and both of them have &quot;Manual Trans Simulation Mode&quot; which allows the Auto to act like a manual. Pretty cool feature that does in fact slow the car to a near stop in almost all situations. This is how I slow down when leaving the interstate or even going downhill to maintain a certain speed best I can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11427" LastEditorUserId="11427" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T19:01:36.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T19:01:36.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18648" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:31:08.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your serpentine belt is worn out or that the tensioner pulley is not doing it's job (or both). As you start the engine, there is a high draw on the battery, which power must then be replaced via the alternator. When this happens, there is a large demand put on the alternator. If the serpentine belt or tensioner are not up to the job, then the belt will squeal as it slips on the alternator. As the battery charge is brought back in line to where it's supposed be, the squealing will stop. The noise could also stop once the belt is warm enough and pliable enough to have more &lt;em&gt;traction&lt;/em&gt; on the drive pulleys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which ever reason, getting the belt replaced is a good first step. The tensioner pulley may also have a &quot;range gauge&quot; on it, which will have an arrow pointing to small bracket which should be in the &quot;good&quot; operational range. If the indicator is outside of that range, it's time to replace. Other GM vehicles I've dealt with have something along this line. It would be located in part on the arm of the tensioner and in part on the base of the tensioner where it is mounted to the bracket (if it's there at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:31:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15080" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:53:08.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The width should be the same width as the one you are replacing. If you don't, it will mess with the stability of your vehicle, how the tire wears, and could possibly (down the line) cause tire failure ... That's probably a little over dramatic, but a possibility. This is, of course if you are just replacing one wheel. If you are replacing them all, width is dependent upon the width of the tire and what it can support in rim width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:53:08.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15072" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:55:51.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Sonata has a cabin air filter (CAF). You should try to change that out first. More than likely, you have some mildew built up somewhere. The CAF is the first place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:55:51.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15066" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:56:55.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure you have enough information here to go on. My best advice to you is, fix the wire and see if it fixes the problem. The wire needs to be fixed anyway, so fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:56:55.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14924" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:16:43.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking your issue is due in part to two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glow plugs - Either you aren't letting them warm up enough or one or more are bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery - If you battery truly is at 50%, this may not be enough to get the glow plugs up to operating temperature during initial glow plug warm up. Having the battery tested may be a good start point here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:16:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17987" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:22:53.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so we figured it out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When i was trying to connect the car to a computer. The computer did not start. A fuse was burned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What i did wrong in the first place ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the radio there was a  blue &quot;power antena&quot; wire, And from the car radio unit there was a blue wire &quot;Source control power&quot;, i connected them (i thought blue goes to blue) - well i was wrong.  In my car there is no use to power antena (its always opened).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So we replaced the fuse and I did not connect the blue wires this time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now everything is fine. I just connected Yellow to yellow, red to red, black to black and speakers to speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My conclusion&lt;/strong&gt; - if you are not sure if the cables are suppose to be connected  - dont connect them :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11027" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:22:53.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18664" CreationDate="2015-07-21T19:07:27.303" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't at all explain why this happened, but my 11 Lexus GS350 warped front rotors and all I ever do is keep the car in gear and use the engine to slow down. There is even a Standard Simulation mode that allows me to downshift. I've used this method to nearly completely stop the car while driving around town. I only hit the brakes if there is a car directly behind me that needs to see brake lights to avoid slamming into me. Even then, I use downshift method to slow down. Not sure how this works as it is an Automatic, but seems downshifting does in fact allow the engine to mimic a manual transmission. It is a pretty cool feature that most cars seem to have these days. I use my A/C almost exclusively, so I'm doubting fuel efficiency is at all increased when doing this slow-down method. So, can someone please explain to me how OEM rotors warped at less than 30K miles and plenty of brakes still on pads?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11427" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T21:13:29.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T21:22:01.343" Title="Early rotor warping on newer 11 Lexus GS350" Tags="|car|brake-rotor|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T19:15:39.377" Score="3" ViewCount="1484" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back my wife mentioned that smoke was coming from the front vents after a bit of driving with the A/C on. This does not happen regularly and the Freeon levels do not change. The other day, I witnessed this myself. There was no freeon odor - it didn't have an odor much at all. Then after about five minutes, it just went away. If freeon was leaking out, my A/C today would not be working, but as far as I can tell, everything still seems to work. To answer some basic questions:&#xA;1. No it was not smokey outside&#xA;2. No I do not smoke&#xA;3. No, it was at 73-degrees, not full cold when this happened.&#xA;Yes, we were in the car for only a few minutes after leaving the mall (which is approx 30 miles from my house) On the way there, cold A/C, no smoke.&#xA;-TiM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11427" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:24:33.017" Title="Smokey A/C from 07 Toyota Camry XLE" Tags="|toyota|ac|camry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18658" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:03:21.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After running the A/C awhile do you see a puddle under the car while it is parked. It is normal for this to happen. I am speculating that the evaporator drain is clogged or draining slow. The water is collecting and what you see is frost blowing out the vent. If it is smoke it should rise as it comes out the vent due to it being warm. If is frost is will sink slightly as it comes out of the vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:03:21.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18658" CreationDate="2015-07-21T21:09:35.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along this lines of what @mikes said, when the A/C first starts, if it is really humid inside the vehicle, you can get fog coming out of the vents until the A/C brings the humidity down. This is because as the cold air coming off of the A/C hits the interior air, it is condensed, making fog. This probably lasts for about two to three minutes and then all is fine. Could be a bit longer if it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; humid. I used to see this all the time when I lived in the State of Georgia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T21:09:35.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18657" CreationDate="2015-07-21T21:22:01.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the problem is not that the rotors are warped (this really doesn't happen all that often). The problem is probably that after hard braking and then a sudden stop without release for a period of time, there is a small buildup of brake friction material which has embedded itself upon the surface of the rotor. This gives you a pulsating feeling when you try to stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could correct itself if you were to utilize the brakes more often. It would ultimately clean the disks back off, giving a clean flush surface. If it is bothering you too much, you can always take the rotors down and have them turned slightly, which would clean up the surface. At that point, if you have good friction material left on your pads, you could continue to use them, but you'd need to make sure you bed the pads properly in the fresh surface, or you'll end up with the same problem again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different ways to bed the brakes. Normally I will bring the car up to 30mph and stop hard, slowing down to 10mph &lt;em&gt;but never stopping completely&lt;/em&gt;. Do this three or four times. Then you need to let the brakes cool down. After that, take the car back out again and do the same from 50mph. The key part here is while you are running and doing the hard stops, do not stop all the way. This will leave the brake material on the rotor and you'll be in the same shape you were before. Also, when you go to park the car to let the brakes cool after the first run, only use the brakes as lightly as possible, trying to allow the pads to rest on the rotors for as little time as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T21:22:01.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15073" CreationDate="2015-07-21T22:20:30.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your serpentine belt is the issue. The serpentine belt is connected to each pulley (a pulley is the circular disc that the rubber belt travels over) of various engine components (power steering, AC, turbocharger if you have one, etc) and as such has a lot of tension on it, but can't have too much. It may be that the dealer installed a pump whose pulley is too large, in turn putting too much tension on the belt (which is the cause of the squealing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the belt is too worn and is slipping. If this is the case, it may also be the cause of the squealing, but would definitely be the reason for decreased functionally in power steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice: &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; go to the dealer unless to have them replace a part that is under warranty. Instead, research some mechanics in town with a solid reputation and at least get their opinion. Some warranties allow you to have your car repaired elsewhere and will have the dealership reimburse you for the cost (research this first, don't assume I'm right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:20:30.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2015-07-22T00:59:45.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem on my 95 k1500 with 5.7. What helped me was using a long armed ratchet and spraying the plug and surrounding area with wd40. Took a few tries but eventually you'll get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11434" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T00:59:45.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18667" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-22T02:33:49.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A series of connected, metal-links forming a continuous loop.  The chain applies propulsion force to the (typically) rear wheel or axle from the engine or pedals.  Such as in motorcycles or bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various types of chains such roller and lock chain types may be used in various applications within automobiles and motorcycles to transfer power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:23:21.250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:23:21.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18668" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-22T02:33:49.143" Score="0" Body="A series of connected, metal-links forming a continuous loop.  The chain applies propulsion force to the (typically) rear wheel or axle from the engine or pedals.  Such as in motorcycles or bicycles." OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="11435" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T09:30:27.233" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T09:30:27.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18846" CreationDate="2015-07-22T02:59:26.627" Score="4" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to motorcycle maintenance, but &lt;strong&gt;need to adjust my clutch&lt;/strong&gt;.  I have watched a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ZOo17nIiYhM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;demonstration video&lt;/a&gt; for a similar model (I think) - but couldn't find an exact match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I will be adjusting the cable (removing it from the fastener, opening the derby/clutch cover, etc...), &lt;strong&gt;will chaincase lubricant spill out of the derby cover when I go to adjust the clutch tension?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner manual's service chart does not indicate that the chaincase lubricant needs to be changed.  Any other special concerns other than spilling lubricant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11435" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T18:12:59.330" Title="Do I have to change the chaincase lubricant when adjusting the clutch during routine maintenance? 2015 HD Road King" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|clutch|chain|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15889" CreationDate="2015-07-22T03:06:31.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first place to look for the headlights would be the fuse panel(s). Often there are two: one inside the passenger compartment, either at the driver or passenger kick panel or on the side of the dash where the door covers the dash on the driver side. The other is the engine compartment (in a black plastic box--diagram will be on the inside cover or on the internet).  Next check the headlight relay(s). These are usually (but not always) in the engine compartment in a black plastic box.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuses are okay, the relays are easily checked by finding an identical # relay in the box that you know is working (sometimes the horn relay is a good one to try) and swap it into the position you want to test, then test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the lights that are staying on, there could be a ground in the switch stalk that is keeping a relay energized (yech ... replacement stalks are not cheap and can be a pain, especially if you have air bags), or the relay could have failed in the &quot;on&quot; position.  If you pull that relay, the lights should go off. Again, swap it with a good relay and if the lights come on again, you know the problem is in the switch wiring. If they don't come on, you know the old relay was bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T03:06:31.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T06:03:48.943" Score="1" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today morning when I was in my car on the way to my office, I heard some unknown sound started all of a sudden, it sounds like thud thud thud. I think its from right part of the car under the bonnet.&#xA;I am sure it wasn't there when I started driving this morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I parked my car for a while, kept engine running, opened up the bonnet and tried to find the issue but I cannot hear the sound.&#xA;Quickly I checked some belts, pipes and other stuffs under the bonnet, also checked front wheels and checked all meters &amp;amp; lights on dashboard and found all well. As I started driving, again I was able to hear the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already contacted my mechanic and have planned a visit coming Saturday. Hope nothing happens till then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am curious, What can be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11326" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:04:49.910" Title="Strange sound started all of a sudden from front part of the car" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17666" CreationDate="2015-07-22T07:29:31.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be coming from your speaker system. Your seat has a pressure switch that tells the system whether someone is sitting on it. If so, and you're not wearing a seatbelt, it will go off. The solution is to disconnect the plug to the switch. The danger is that you may inadvertently disconnect the airbag switch and cause weird lights and/or alarms to go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T07:29:31.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15889" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:01:56.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't turn off - Tells you the light switch is bad. Get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:01:56.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:04:11.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat actually makes bolts easier to remove. That's why you find mechanics often heat stuck bolts with butane torch. I don't know why, but it is routinely done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:04:11.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15073" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:18:28.097" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many times it is not practical to find real cause. I can say with 80% certainty if you properly install another new pump, it should solve your problem. Buy one from autohausaz.com and watch Youtube to learn how to do it yourself and then do it yourself. Should cost less than $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:18:28.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18658" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:24:33.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did not decribe the smoke. what colour? Smell? You can tell a lot from these details. Did you use heater or cooler? I suggest changing the a/c compressor. They are semi consumable and not expensive and wear out after some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:24:33.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:38:41.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not let car sit for than 2 months, it is fine. No long term damage to car. When we talk about long term, 6 months is more appropriate. But you need a battery maintainer to charge the battery if you don't drive for more than 2 weeks. Charge battery once a week with maintainer. Car batteries are very delicate in that they suffer significant damage even if drained only a few times in their life span. So never let them drain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:38:41.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14926" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:42:48.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you smell it when you open engine hood? Normally when you change oil, some gets spilled on exhaust pipe in engine bay. They get hot when rpm goes up, hence the smell. I suggest using some degreaser to clean exhuase pipe and any parts that gets hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:42:48.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2015-07-22T08:59:42.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm under impression that vacuum leak causes poor idle but not kill engine. I suppose your problem is not an intermittent problem? If it is, then it is very hard to diagnose. If it is not, they could have run a fuel pressure test to eliminate fuel line problem before they replace fuel pump. The mechnics have tricked you in this case. Do a fuel pressure test and then battery/alternator test. You may find your problem. &#xA;Anyways, a car that cannot start is worth nothing. You would not get any money back if you just sell it on. &#xA;Morale of the story: stick to Toyotas if you don't know how to repair cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:59:42.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2015-07-22T09:11:14.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel consumption is only determined by how wide open the throttle body is, which is only determined by how depressed the gas pedal is. So there is no difference in you case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T09:11:14.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18686" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:13:36.103" Score="10" ViewCount="22113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at the power bands for my car (2000 Opel Agila 1.2) recently, as I want to work out when it is best to change gear and stuff, as I have no life! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the approximate graph I made up in Excel comparing power and torque:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBT6U.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBT6U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the power drop after about 5500 RPM? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the torque drop after 4000 RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always thought higher speed means more power, so why don't they both keep increasing past these points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: The engine is naturally aspirated...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T05:35:32.417" Title="Why does the power output peak and then drop as engine speed increases?" Tags="|engine|power|rpm|torque|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18688" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:25:53.050" Score="3" ViewCount="5260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two different opinions on whether a clutch should be replaced when a slave cylinder fails:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It WILL coat the clutch plate and will wear the clutch plate.  The clutch plate MUST be replaced. $1500&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if it fails catastrophically, at worst, it will be 50ml of brake fluid, which can just be rinsed off with water (or hose pipe), and slave cylinder replaced.  At worse, gear box taken off and bell housing also rinsed out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11438" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T18:13:19.860" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T18:13:19.860" Title="Jeep JK Clutch vs Slave Cylinder" Tags="|clutch|jeep|clutch-cylinder|wrangler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18681" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:52:12.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well every car has a maximum power output. After a certain point, the engine doesn't produce any more power. The RPM power range of your engine is dictated by how powerful it is, whether it is naturally aspirated or super/turbo charged, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also past the 5500 RPM point on your car is most likely hitting the &quot;red&quot; section of your rev counter. The extra revs after this point are probably just there to account for any potential spike in RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque of an engine dictates how fast an engine can produce the power needed to accelerate your car. At 1.2 in capacity, your engine will only produce so much torque and after a certain point the rate at which your car can accelerate will reduce until you can go no faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my shoddy explanation, its the best way I can describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T10:52:12.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18681" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:52:46.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various reasons as to why an engine is not efficient beyond its tuned range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Laws of thermodynamics&lt;/strong&gt;, I do not want to get into scientific details but it simply means that you cannot transfer heat and convert it into energy efficiently beyond a certain point where the ambient temperature and cylinder pressure start to make more impact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometry of the cylinder&lt;/strong&gt;:  Every cylinder is not built in a similar parameters , some engines make the pistons move faster and they basically have less time to do the complete otto cycle(intake, compression, combustion, exhaust) that is why motorcycles engines rev hard but produce less torque comparatively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friction&lt;/strong&gt;: After a certain point of time due to high RPM there is a lot of friction in the engine torque is basically the amount of force required to turn a wheel for instance, when friction increases the amount of torque reduces..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting it short , imagine you are pushing a cart from stand still, and your leg movement is RPM , typically to get the cart off the line you will need maximum energy at this time your legs are not moving very fast, but when you are upto a certain speed your legs will move fast but you will not need much energy to push the cart and keep it coasting so if we plot what you were doing on a graph it will be similar to the torque curve on a engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPc6G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPc6G.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T11:06:22.333" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T11:06:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18681" CreationDate="2015-07-22T11:47:14.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine starts to consume more power in order to keep the piston and crank at high rpm due to higher friction associated with higher rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T11:47:14.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18681" CreationDate="2015-07-22T12:16:46.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine was designed in such a way that it is most efficient between 3500RPM and 5000RPM. That means that the valve timing and camshaft profiles were made in such a way that your engine &quot;breathes&quot; best between those speeds. That's why you have the most torque in that region. Another thing is that as the RPM increases, it gets harder and harder to get the optimal amount of air and fuel into the cylinder AND burn it at the optimal rate. The faster the engine revs, the less time there is to suck in, compress, burn and blow out. This affects your ignition timing in turn, which means you start the burn process earlier than you want so that the flame dies just before the exhaust valve opens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, power is essentially just Torque X RPM, so it's just a matter of multiplying your engine speed by your torque to get the power and understand why your power curve looks the way it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:16:46.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18682" CreationDate="2015-07-22T12:22:38.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to rinse brake fluid off the friction material, if it has become contaminated it will remain so for ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it needs changing depends on whether it has been contaminated to such an extent as to have a detrimental effect on the clutch performance - which it may not have done - you'd only be able to tell by driving the car (n.b. on the other hand, if brake pads get contaminated at all, they MUST be replaced for safety reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have to take the gearbox and bell housing off to change the cylinder and/or check the clutch plate, then you may as well change the whole clutch at the same time - the vast majority of the cost of a clutch change is the labour to remove and replace the gearbox, so it's worth doing while it's off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:22:38.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18682" CreationDate="2015-07-22T12:30:41.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slave cylinder is mounted on the bell housing with the fluid valve outside, and the piston within the housing. If there is a catastrophic failure, it is likely to be from the piston gasket: then all the fluid goes straight into the bell housing, wetting the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They may be rather more fluid than the slave piston volume; the circuit is pressurized (by pedal action) and some fluid will be coming in from the pipes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch disk will have received fluid projections. Since it was spinning at the time (engine turning), projections will have affected a large part of the disk surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once on, clutch fluid gets into the disk material and cannot be removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result will be a slipping clutch, even if you clean the interior of the bell (and the disk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the transmission line apart requires some labor since you need to move the T-box out of the way. Even if you do manage to save the clutch disk (which I do not think you will), you would still need to spend quite a lot of time to take it apart - or pay to have it done. I don't see much saving to be made here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T12:30:41.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18703" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:25:59.417" Score="8" ViewCount="17480" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can modern turbo-charged petrol engines have such constant torque plateaus over a broad rpm range. Does the mathematical relationship between torque and power still hold here? This looks totally different from a normally aspirated engine where torque and power increase gradually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BshX5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW 650i engine performance&quot;&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11440" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T19:59:42.687" Title="Torque curve on modern turbo-charged petrol engines" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:51:25.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;horsepower = (torque * RPM) / 5252 always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically engines have to suck in their air and fuel so they can only suck in an optimal amount in a certain range.  With a turbo you are forcing the air in, so the engine can make more torque over a wider range.  If there is a max torque the manufacturer wants to set (for torque limit on the transmission/drivetrain), they can set a boost limit so there is a flat torque line.  Shelby did this with the GLHS, they made max torque over a 2000 RPM range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T13:51:25.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18503" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:54:04.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nick said there are wear indicators. Most will have little arrows on the side wall to show you where the indicator bars or raised areas are. On the side of wall of tires there is the date of manufacture stamped as 4 digits. The first two represent the week in the year it was manufactured and the last two the year. May be difficult to spot at first but gives you an idea how old the tires are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T13:54:04.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18701" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:55:26.900" Score="4" ViewCount="2357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mustang GT, 4.6L V8 with a 5-speed manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the car I learned how to drive stick on, and the only other car I've ever driven with a manual is a 1963 pick-up truck... so I've driven these two cars a lot, but only these two cars. Experience is pretty limited. Anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm in first gear above 2500 RPM, if I just let off the gas (leave clutch out), the car will begin to buck back and forth, pretty severely. The same thing happens in higher gears, but the bucking is much less severe and generally I have to be much closer to the redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just a little confused here. Why would the car begin bucking with the clutch out? Where's the slack in the drivetrain that causes the bucking? Is it just as simple as the engine fighting the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:32:48.017" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T03:41:42.590" Title="What causes my Mustang to buck when I let off the gas at a high RPM?" Tags="|ford|manual-transmission|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18694" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:29:24.090" Score="2" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;The door trim on the drivers side door of my 2003 Ford Focus has come loose at the front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSlci.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSlci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loose trim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that a proper repair would require the interior door panel to be removed, and this seems like a lot of work for such an old car.  I would be happy with a &quot;bodge job&quot; repair if that could be guaranteed to last the few years the car has left to live.  Can anyone suggest the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that double sided tape would do but the usual domestic double sided tape is too thin and I think it would come loose very quickly.  Some sort of tape or other adhesive that is thicker and with more &quot;give&quot; would be needed.  Can anyone suggest something like this that is easily obtainable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11443" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:18:31.677" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:17:19.750" Title="Trim repair on a 2003 Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|repair|focus|trim|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18693" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:45:19.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00063X38M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HBI9EQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Permatex Super Weatherstrip Adhesive&lt;/a&gt;. Follow the directions on the product. You'll probably want to use some painter's tape (the blue stuff) to keep the trim in place while it cures. If it's a leading edge (appears to be so), make sure you have the tape covering the point of the trim so the wind won't try to screw up your job (if you are planning on using the vehicle while it is curing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to leave the tape in place for probably 24 hours at least to ensure good bonding of the adhesive. The reason I suggest to use the blue tape is that it shouldn't leave a residue behind when you pull it off. Whatever you use will look ugly in the mean time, but have no fear, it's the end result you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, one last thing ... ensure you clean the area where you want to apply the adhesive before you apply or your fix will not last. Pull up the trim the best you can and get all of the old glue off. It doesn't have to be perfect, but you should do the best you can on it. Make sure you have plenty of painted area to put the adhesive on. (&lt;strong&gt;EDIT NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Leave the small piece of plastic on the door if it is firmly affixed as it would be a good point for adhesion between the trim and the door.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:14:16.773" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:14:16.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:48:13.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not a realistic flat-torque graph. It should look more like the following in the real world:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv57K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv57K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you woold find that the horsepower v torque holds true if you apply the calculation at any point on the RPM band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:10:14.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18699" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:53:29.033" Score="4" ViewCount="1798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put in transmission fluid and replaced the clutch cable.  I've re-adjusted it (not that I have much if a clue on what I'm doing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did good for a few days then I had a problem with 2nd gear and some times it grinds when putting it into 4th and reverse.  Do I need to replace the clutch or is it something else I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11444" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:32:23.217" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T02:42:05.860" Title="1995 Geo Tracker - Shifting Issues" Tags="|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|tracker|geo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:59:21.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the definition of a &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt; may seem mundane, care for definition must be taken when one considers that a car may have three wheels (such as the first car developed - below). &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w92nF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w92nF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First automobile by inventor Karl Benz&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another distinctive feature of the car, at least within the US, is that a car generally builds a cockpit-type frame that protects the driver (also &lt;em&gt;cage&lt;/em&gt;).  Contrast that with the &quot;cage-less&quot; design of three-wheeled motorcycles such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://can-am.brp.com/spyder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can-Am Spyder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="11435" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:14:30.387" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:14:30.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:59:21.660" Score="0" Body="A car is a wheeled, self-propelled vehicle.  Normally, a car has 4 wheels and is designed for the transport of passengers.  Depending upon locale, cars may also be called 'autos.'" OwnerUserId="11435" LastEditorUserId="11435" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:15:29.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:15:29.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:17:59.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try and readjust the clutch again and see if that helps. According to the Haynes manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... there should be 1-2 milimeters of free play at the bell crank lower end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not very much play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondarily, I see from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.off-road.com/suzuki-geo-all/105013-tracker-clutch-adjustments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt;, you might have an issue akin to one I had on my car way back when. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the firewall where the cable goes through. As he says his mechanic found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The hole through the firewall where the clutch cable passes was torn in 2 places, nearly an inch long allowing to firewall to flex every time the clutch pedal was pushed in. The fix was to install a plate, 1/8&quot; thick over the broken hole, fasten it to the firewall and then put correct sized holes in the plate. It seems to be working perfectly now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not the case, I'd suggest the synchros in your transmission are going out and you'll need to look at a rebuild/replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:17:59.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:32:28.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On top of what Paul already suggested...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting that it is 2nd, 4th, and reverse (assuming that reverse is next to 4th) since they are all on the bottom half.  Not sure what would break/wear out to cause that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the cable from to pedal to the throw out arm to check for damage.  Check the connections at the pedal and the transmission.  Have someone get in the car and press the pedal while you watch for movement/play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;grinding is caused by the clutch not releasing or the synchros.  If your clutch is failing, it will slip when fully engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:32:28.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18692" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:39:58.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it out there a little more understandable I will try to spell it out for you ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have your foot on the gas to maintain a speed, everything is in equilibrium. Everything (engine motor mounts, transmission mount, rear differential, suspension, tires) are coasting along having a good day. All of a sudden, you take your foot off of the accelerator and things get thrown out of whack. The engine begins the process of &lt;em&gt;engine braking&lt;/em&gt; or using compression to slow the vehicle down. This is the loading up I talked about above. Torque is created throughout the drive train which binds up (twists) all of the drive train. This is excess torque which becomes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastic_energy&quot;&gt;elastic potential energy&lt;/a&gt;. As this potential energy reaches its maximum (maximum amount the drive train can store), it becomes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinetic_energy&quot;&gt;kinetic energy&lt;/a&gt; and is released, allowing the vehicle to lurch forward. This is the &quot;bucking&quot; you talked about. As all of the kinetic energy is used up on one side of the cycle, it all starts over again, which means it's cyclic and will happen again until everything is back to a point where the all of the parts I've described can take the &lt;em&gt;shock&lt;/em&gt; of deceleration without having the bouncing or bucking effect you realize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only really experience this on cars with standard shift transmission because the torque converter will alleviate most of this with an automatic (won't diminish &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of it, but you'll not notice it near as much). Mind you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;every car is different&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Every standard shift vehicle is built differently (between models), so will have more or less elasticity built into the drive train. Even within the same model, it won't be &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same, mainly due to wear and tear on the items which can store the energy. Even the overall state of the engine itself will have an effect on how much of this behavior you'll see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:39:58.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:04:49.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this happening only when the car is moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a cyclic event which happens faster as the vehicle moves faster? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, I'd suggest your right front tire has slipped a belt. This is something which happens internally to the tire. The tire would be made up of several belts which help the tire to roll smoothly. If one (or more) of the belts slip, it creates an &lt;em&gt;out of round&lt;/em&gt; spot on your tire and produces the thumping sound you are hearing/feeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily test this theory by moving the front tire to the rear position on the same side of the car (same process as rotating the tires). If the thumping then moves to the back of the car on that side, it has something to do with the tire and you should have it checked by a tire shop or your mechanic to verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to fix this is tire replacement, though your tire may still be under warranty. This depends on how much wear is on the tire (how much tread is left on it). A slipped belt usually happens due to some kind of trauma to the tire, such as hitting a pot hole or a curb at just the right speed or direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:04:49.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18689" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:36:36.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine torque produced is a function of the amount of air ingested and the air/fuel ratio combusted in the cylinder(s), combined with 'static' variables like the compression ratio, bore/stroke, crankshaft design, intake length, cam profile, intake and exhaust sizing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all the other parameters now static (non-variable) once the engine is built and assembled, and with the ECU controlling the amount of fuel added to the mixture (air/fuel ratio), in gasoline engines torque produced in that engine is now almost entirely a function of air flow. More air in the cylinders = more torque, less air in the cylinders = less torque (speaking of mass here, not volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Natural Aspiration (non-variable)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, in a naturally aspirated non-variable cam non-variable intake internal combustion engine, there will be one (and only one) RPM at which the flow will peak, based on the cam profile and intake length (a hump in the graph). You can tune where this peak happens with various cams and heads and valve sizes, but there is only one. (note: this excludes variable intake length and variable cam systems, see below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbXsD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbXsD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Natural Aspiration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Natural Aspiration (variable cam and/or intake)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With variable cam profiles, there can be two or more peaks (or even a continuously variable setup in theory) where each distinct cam profile or intake length experiences peak flow (greatest mass charge in the cylinders). This can vary the lift, duration, or both of the valves. Examples of this are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honda's VTEC&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VVT-i&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota's VVT-i&lt;/a&gt;, generically known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_valve_timing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Variable Valve Timing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake length can also be varied in addition to or instead of the cam profile, for further (though usually smaller) local maxima along the graph (sub-peaks). Examples of this are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-faq-general/162593-faq-what-vris-everything-you-wanted-know-more.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mazda's VRIS&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_212.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;VW's variable intake manifold on the VR6&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamahapart.com/page/yamahaycci&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yamaha's YCC-I&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nj3ny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nj3ny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Variable Cam&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Forced Induction (regulated)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's consider forced induction. With a capable compressor (either supercharger or turbocharger), it will be capable of a variable mass charge through the RPM range. For a number of reasons, bypass/blowoff valves, wastegates, clutches, and similar devices limit the amount to a known value, typically based on pressure (say, 21 psi). At this pressure, if we can assume a constant temperature (which we can't in practice), that would yield a theoretically constant mass of air entering the cylinders under sufficient boost. With a set mass of air, and an ECU injecting a corresponding amount of fuel, &lt;strong&gt;the engine will produce a constant amount of torque&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each detonation event will experience the expansion pressure of that set amount of air mass and fuel, and your torque line becomes flat as 21psi of air is forced through the pressurized intake in a constant way (unlike the variable draw of natural aspiration). This will fail to be 'flat' when the compressor is unable to produce more pressure than the regulated amount, which will happen both when the compressor isn't spinning fast enough (too low of RPM) and when the amount of air flow the engine requires at an RPM is greater than the compressor can provide (too high of RPM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEH9Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XEH9Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;Forced Induction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Forced Induction (unregulated)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in theory, if your engine components were overbuilt to handle lots more torque than they would need to otherwise, you could remove the wastegate/clutch system and to deregulate the peak pressure, essentially allowing the flow characteristics of the compressor to define whatever peak it could produce, all the way until the compressor is so outside of its efficiency that it's heating the air charge (and thus expanding it) so much that it's either causing predetonation, causing components to fail, or reducing the effective air mass even with higher pressure, or some combination thereof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2Dzk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2Dzk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Unregulated Forced Induction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Forced Induction - Theory vs Practice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that there is a big difference between a 'theoretical' dyno chart, with perfectly flat/smooth lines, and a 'true' dyno chart as in practice. Even with a perfectly regulated forced induction system at a set pressure (21 psi in the above example, 7.5psi in the graph below), there will be slight variances due to the temperature and flow characteristics of the intake and cam system at various RPMs, which can lead to slopes and small peaks/valleys in the 'flat-ish' region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9p2il.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9p2il.png&quot; alt=&quot;Forced Induction - Real&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why Flat Torque?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible, in theory, to introduce artificial variable restrictions in a naturally aspirated engine to produce the same results, but it would just be wasteful. Alternatively, if you could design a perfect continuously variable cam and intake system, perhaps that system could (in theory) get to a constant air mass and thus flat curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the pressure regulation is done with forced induction typically have to do with design constraints, such as the price to overbuild the components to handle the short torque spike, including possibly everything from fuel injector sizing to piston and rod metallurgy, and the corresponding hit that will be taken in reliability for very small gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T19:59:42.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T19:59:42.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:39:21.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every infernal combustion engine runs best within a stated temperature range. There is a temperature below which the engine is cold, with the heater not working and the need to subject it only to gentle acceleration. There is a temperature at or above which the engine is overheating so badly that it must be shut down and the problem traced and corrected. In between, the engine is warm enough to be driven normally and not too hot to be driven at all, and there is an ideal temperature that the actual engine temperature should be at or close to, that is generally between 3/7 and 5/7 of the way up from too cold to too hot.&#xA;For monitoring engine temperature with regard to knowing how hot it is, and how the cooling system is working some cars have a temperature gauge that show how hot the engine is in the range from too cold to too hot. Others have signal lights for cold and hot that indicate whether the engine is too cold, too hot, or somewhere in between. And some just have a hot signal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:39:21.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15006" CreationDate="2015-07-22T18:39:30.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way, to my way of thinking, this could be the bearings in the engine. There is absolutely no way you could get any type of penetrating oil into the bearing area of the engine using any type of spray means. These areas are sealed against outside contamination by means of a seal and oil pressure (meaning, if the seal starts to fail, you'd see oil coming &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; so the dirt or other debris doesn't come in). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the problem is with the torque converter and not the engine? Again, not a real answer, and not something which would be solved (even briefly) with a squirt of WD-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm thinking it could possibly be is that the starter is not disengaging properly after starting. You said the noise starts a period of time after the engine is started. If the starter has gotten to a point where it is hot enough, it might start making noise at that point and continue to get louder as time goes on. This is a real stretch, but seams feasible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid without further explanation, there's not much more in the way of an answer we can provide for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T18:39:30.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18707" CreationDate="2015-07-22T19:15:51.693" Score="6" ViewCount="83985" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, yesterday we had very heavy rains, and unfortunately I was driving in an unfamiliar area of town. I drove through high water, which caused my car to sputter and so I turned around. The car behaved normally until I got to higher ground and started to accelerate, then the car choked out and died. I was able to restart the car after attempting to turn over the engine for a few seconds. When it restarted, it was still sputtering, but upon revving it, it blew copious amounts of steam out the tailpipe and it appeared (and still appears) to be running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned though about possible longer term damage that may have occurred. I figure at the very least an oil change is in order (water contamination in the oil from excess moisture in the compression chamber), although I also wonder if a compression test (could the presence of water in the combustion chamber have damaged the rings or seals?). I am also curious if steam could have damaged the iridium plugs. Is there anything else that should be considered for inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the car in question is a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse; it has a 2.4 mivec engine in it, and the (f$*#ing) previous owner has put an aftermarket intake with the filter behind the fog lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T20:03:45.123" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T11:10:59.723" Title="Effects of driving through deep water WITHOUT hydrolocking (car still bogged down and died)" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|air-intake|damage|eclipse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18706" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:12:55.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; suck up some water and were on the verge of hydrolock, but didn't quite get there. I also doubt you have caused any damage to the engine, in fact, you may have inadvertently &lt;em&gt;helped&lt;/em&gt; your engine (though I wouldn't suggest you do this again!!!). The extra sputtering may have been a case of the filter on your CAI getting soaked with water. I think you got very lucky on this, but have probably come through unscathed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I figure at the very least an oil change is in order (water contamination in the oil from excess moisture in the compression chamber), although I also wonder if a compression test (could the presence of water in the combustion chamber have damaged the rings or seals?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the oil via dipstick. If the oil does not appear milky, I wouldn't worry about it. After oil is up to operating temperature, all of the water in it will evaporate fairly quickly and be taken out through the PCV and burned in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am also curious if steam could have damaged the iridium plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In and of itself, steam will not damage any engine parts (since we have eliminated the possibility of hydrolock here - excessive water will, that's for sure!). Think of water/meth injection systems. They put copious amounts of water (or water vapor) into an engine. As an aside, water injection can be used to effectively increase the octane of fuel, it cleans the combustion chambers, keeps NOx down due to the cooling effects as it enters the intake tract, etc. Also, given the right amounts, water expands greater when it becomes steam than the air/fuel does when burned. Obviously, if too much water is introduced, it will kill the combustion. Lots of water = bad; minor/measured amounts of water = good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything else that should be considered for inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a leak down test could tell you if you might have any internal damage. The greatest possibility might be bent valves, but from your description of how it's running, I doubt there is any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T21:26:25.707" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T21:26:25.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:14:19.817" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speaker in the driver's side door of a Chrysler Concorde went bad. I removed the speaker and would like to replace &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the one speaker. What specs should I be looking for? Here are pictures of the speaker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Vg2a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Vg2am.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/geg4Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/geg4Qm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a better picture of the connector, I will do my best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11448" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T17:15:49.807" Title="Identifying specs of speaker from Chrysler Concorde" Tags="|audio|chrysler|speakers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18717" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:21:27.307" Score="5" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 Blazer - 4.3 L Vortec V6 CMFI (vin W w/ PCM)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;230,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no trouble codes.  This is a OBD-I or 1.5 system from a GM transitional year (I have the OBD-II style connector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have issues that are possibly related to the Evaporator Canister Purge system...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;Occasionally, I get &quot;dieseling&quot; (run-on) after shutting off the truck.&lt;/s&gt;  See edit 1 below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I occasionally smell a slight amount of gasoline fumes when driving with the windows down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After fixing a lot of other things&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, I still occasionally have some slight lack-of-power issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas smell seems to be coming from the rear of the truck.  When I remove the tank vent from the canister (the middle hose; from canister to tank), a little gas drips out.  I know that's not right.  Visually, I see no leaks from any of the lines or the canister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;The GM service manual also has a page for &quot;dieseling&quot; in the drivability section.  It points to the Evaporator Purge system.&lt;/s&gt; Edit: This has been ruled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what causes gasoline to get into the vent line?  I'd rather not change the canister without knowing why fuel is getting into it.  Does gasoline in the canister explain the engine run-on?  I've read about ways to bypass or eliminate the canister, but these techniques also cause a gas smell.  Are there any definitive tests that will narrow down the source of trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, this vehicle is not subject to emissions testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;&quot;after fixing a lot of other things&quot;&lt;/em&gt; refers to a rough idle condition that led to checking everything... spark plugs, wires, compression testing, timing chain slack, etc.  Ultimately, the rough idle was fixed by setting the timing back to factory spec (it was 10 degrees retarded)... still not right... so then changing the entire distributor (bad bearings) and setting timing to factory spec ultimately took care of 90-95% of the rough idle.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18806&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Edit: Root cause of rough idle ended up being a pinhole leak in the gas return line inside the intake plenum.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pressure leak-down test was performed many times about a month ago while chasing down the rough idle condition.  Pressure held steady for more than 20 minutes at 58 psi.  This would rule out any/all leaks from pump to CMFI &quot;spider&quot;.  &lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Edit:  Wrong!!&lt;/strong&gt;  It only rules out the gas feed side and the &quot;spider&quot;.  However, if you have a leak in the fuel return side coming out of the &quot;spider&quot; inside the plenum, a leak-down test will be completely useless.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18806&quot;&gt;This was exactly my problem&lt;/a&gt;!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the top hose (from canister to engine) and drove around a bit.  I still have the run-on, which presumably rules out the canister as the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;: This was flagged as a possible duplicate.  However, these two questions are not the same.  This question specifically is asking about how the Evap Purge system operates, a gasoline odor, why there is gasoline inside the canister, symptoms of failure, and what can/should be done about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18806&quot;&gt;other newer question&lt;/a&gt; specifically delves into the possible causes of a dieseling condition, what's been recently done, and what else can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T15:04:39.913" LastActivityDate="2023-06-24T21:44:21.120" Title="Evaporator canister purge system advice needed" Tags="|chevrolet|emissions|gasoline|evap|blazer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18716" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:28:47.003" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;h2&gt;History/Background of This Engine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Magnum 3.9 V6 was introduced in 1992.  In 1997, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/09-07-97.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TSB&lt;/a&gt; was issued to fix excessive timing chain noise.  The fix was to &lt;strong&gt;remove the cam &lt;em&gt;thrust plate&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;chain oil tab&lt;/em&gt; and install the new &lt;em&gt;thrust plate / chain oil tab / chain tensioner&lt;/em&gt; combo.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A popular option is to install a &lt;em&gt;double roller timing chain&lt;/em&gt; instead.  With a double roller, you leave the original &lt;em&gt;thrust plate&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;chain oil tab&lt;/em&gt; in place and do not install the &lt;em&gt;chain tensioner&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My Situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 model year truck and I don't know what &quot;year&quot; my 3.9 engine is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has excessive timing chain noise and I'm pretty sure it was not replaced at the scheduled service interval so I plan to replace the timing chain.  I already ordered a double roller before thinking about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to there being excessive noise, I assume that my engine was built before that TSB and does not include the tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my truck does have the one piece &lt;em&gt;thrust plate / chain oil tab / chain tensioner&lt;/em&gt; combo, &lt;strong&gt;what do I need to do to install a double roller?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at all my local auto parts stores and am now kind of crunched on time to order online.  I've even asked for the part from a 1996 (pre-TSB) thrust plate, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I take my dremel and trim off the tensioner parts of the combo piece?&lt;/strong&gt;  If so, how do I clean up the piece so there are no microscopic metal shavings left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:41:52.190" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:41:52.190" Title="What Do I Use for a Thrust Plate After Double Roller Timing Chain Swap" Tags="|engine|dodge|timing-set|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15234" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:14:16.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the brake calipers getting stuck shut, the pads were so thin also they may have been binding from heat. I heard a ticking noise later which turned out to be the CV axle a result of it, but really just the spindle on the end of it. I replaced my rotors, calipers, pads, bearings and front axles regardless. The binding was a rusty caliper and the ticking was the CV axle. My bearings weren't bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T22:14:16.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40306" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:18:48.267" Score="5" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Nissan Almera on which the horn was replaced a few days ago and I just noticed that the dashboard lights and the headlight angle adjuster are no long working.  A more powerful aftermarket horn which required extra wiring and fuses had previously been installed, and the extra wiring / fuses were removed ( as much as I can tell ).  I'm pretty certain this is the first time I've driven at night since the repair, and I'm 100% certain it was working before the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that the 10A fuse labeled &quot;tail&quot; was blown, and after replacing it and turn on the lights it immediately blew again.  So obviously, the guy who did the horn wired something wrong and created a short in the system which is blowing the &quot;tail&quot; fuse.  The thing is he lives an hour drive away and did the horn as a favor to the seller, so I think I'll probably be stuck trying to figure this out myself... Any ideas how I should proceed?  Just trace the wires from that fuse and try to see where they go until I find the culprit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/axVzl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/axVzl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T19:25:51.427" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T06:13:50.960" Title="Dash Lights and Headlight Angle Adjust Stop Working" Tags="|electrical|nissan|lights|almera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T23:07:02.480" Score="1" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to buy an automatic transmissions but only found MDMA automatic transmission for this reason I need to know the compatibility between MDMA and M4TA.&#xA;Honda CRV 98 4X4 and mi car use M4TA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exist compatibility between MDMA and M4TA?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11451" LastEditorUserId="11451" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T23:14:07.370" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T23:14:07.370" Title="Compatibility with automatic transmissions between MDMA and M4TA Honda CRV 98" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|4wd|crv|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T23:21:03.320" Score="4" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a volkswagon passat wagon. It just reach 70000M and it is 2007 model. I recently check the engine at the dealership. Now they asked me to replace all the following items to fix engine overheat and engine noise that just happen a few days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CYLINDER HEAD, REPLACE INTAKE VALVE&#xA;CAM CHAIN AND HYDRAULIC TENSIONER&#xA;SEAL SEAL RING X 2&#xA;A SENDER&#xA;D BOOT&#xA;COOL.ADD&#xA;FR ELECTR FAN&#xA;E ELECTR FAN&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these together will end up 6000K+. It will shoot up to 7000+ if I also change the timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 2007 Passat wagon. 2.0T 4WD. A month ago there is overheat, the coolant meter shoot up to the red region twice. So I checked with them and they say replace fans and thermal sensor in engine will do the job. That Is about 1500. Then two weeks later, I found engine has a sound that feels like diesel car, but my car is gas. Also there are times I turn off the car but the engine fan is still on for a few minutes which I have never seen bwfore. So they check and say I need to replace bunch of stuff in the engine. I always maintain this car at the dealership and I dont drive as much everyday (about 15Miles normally). So it is unlikely that it will be damaged by my driving habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is:&#xA;How long does these components last normally? If I am spending this much money to repair the car. Maybe I should just buy a new one (a cheaper model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11452" LastEditorUserId="11452" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T01:51:36.937" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T04:38:26.510" Title="How long does items in the engine last in general for standard size cars?" Tags="|engine|vw|overheating|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18710" CreationDate="2015-07-23T00:56:49.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the manufacture date of your truck. If it is after June 2007, you can pretty much be assured you shouldn't have to worry about the TSB since it is dated 27 June 2007. This wouldn't be &lt;em&gt;foolproof&lt;/em&gt;, but one would have to assume they wouldn't put the old problem into a new truck after that date, considering they knew about the issue prior to that date. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the DRTC, you'll need to fit and clearance as you go. This is just going to be &lt;em&gt;one of those things&lt;/em&gt;. You may want to do further research with online forums for a &quot;good solution&quot; to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning metal debris off of the part if you do decide to clearance should not be too difficult. After you have finished grinding on it, put a pair of leather gloves on and check the cut areas for spurs which may cut you. Once you are sure there aren't any sharp edges, completely wash it in a parts washer. If a parts washer is not available, put it in a bucket and wash the part with soap and water. After that, completely soak the part in WD-40 (WD-40 was originally designed as a cleaner for the skin of aircraft, so works great for this cleaning application as well). Then take a clean paper towel and wipe the part down. Look over the paper towel to see if there is are any debris on it. Your looking for dark grey discoloration (not discoloration from the WD-40). If you see it, wipe it down again until you the paper towel comes back clean. (NOTE: If you are wondering about putting a metal part in soapy water, don't be. Part of the reason for using WD-40 is to disperse the water as well ... pulling double duty!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T00:56:49.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18709" CreationDate="2015-07-23T02:22:24.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the top hose (engine to canister) and drove.  I still experienced the run-on, so I believe this conclusively rules out the canister as the cause of the dieseling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found that the connection of this top hose to the metal tubing was very loose and possibly the cause of the gasoline smell.  I put a hose clamp here to eliminate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as why there is gasoline going into the canister through the tank hose, this part is still unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T02:22:24.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15234" CreationDate="2015-07-23T05:12:25.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to use factory control arm or your suspension problems will be on going due to parts being stressed at wrong angles.&#xA;There are bushing press kits that presses in the bushings, so the hard work is really how to dissassemble the suspension. Mind you the spring can kill you if you loosen the lower suspension without first clamping the spring. And cheap clamp can also kill you if spring slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushings are only found between suspension parts to dampen metal on metal contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:12:25.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T05:14:25.003" Score="4" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having problem with the cooling fan, when car start fan won't turn on. I been researching online, people have suggested replacing the coolant temperature sensor and some suggest the temp gauge sensor (guessing that is the switch?)&#xA;I am not sure where they all located. Any suggestion would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;jas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11454" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T11:01:25.550" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T11:01:25.550" Title="Mazda 323 2003 astina radiator fan not working" Tags="|mazda|fan|astina-323|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18693" CreationDate="2015-07-23T05:17:19.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks it is held by plastic rivets. You may be able to get them from dealer. Dealer can certainly help you with the information and if you don't ask them to fix, it shouldn't cost you anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:17:19.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2015-07-23T05:20:25.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest do not mess with it. Your model may have a smaller capacity alternator and this would upset the whole elctrical system and cause car break down. The foglight can add another 15% load to the system and during occasions the battery is undercharged, it may cause havoc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T05:20:25.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T05:37:13.923" Score="2" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, very weird situation:&#xA;2001 Mitsubishi Montero&#xA;Loud hissing sound coming out of front passenger wheel well when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tiSFdoniRm0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/tiSFdoniRm0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put it in park and started the engine, gassed it until 3500 rpms, no hissing sound at all when parked/not in gear. And I have done a visual check of all vacuum hoses, and they seem fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it only makes a loud hissing sound when its in gear, does it mean its the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hissing sounds like pressurized air escaping, it pulses with the RPMs, its not a continuous spray of air, and you can hear it from around 2250 rpms to around 4000 rpms, at anything lower than that you can't hear the sound. I also have a lot of power loss when going up hill or trying to accelerate quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a vacuum leak, or an exhaust leak, you'd be able to hear it when parked and revving at high rpms, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only happens in gear, so it seems like a transmission issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the trans fluid and it was pretty low, so I put a quart in and the level is between the two notches on the dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this sound? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11455" LastEditorUserId="11455" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T00:43:58.107" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T00:43:58.107" Title="(Video) Very Loud Hissing/Spraying Noise, Transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|exhaust|mitsubishi|noise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-26T01:14:28.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T07:14:11.217" Score="4" ViewCount="2958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean the pulley rotates, and you need to hold it still with something in order to screw/unscrew bolts. I have found out, it is possible to unscrew bolts by using a second ratchet/breaker bar to hold on to another bolt in clockwise (tightening) direction. Although this tightens the second bolt to some extent at the same time you unscrew first bolt, if you repeatedly loosen all bolts in this way, all bolts will come loose eventually because this method does not tighten bolt more than it loosen bolt, as friction plays a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, how do you tighten all bolts? You cannot do the reverse as this method loosen more than it tightens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T13:57:44.200" Title="How do you normally screw/unscrew bolts on the type of belt pulleys that has 3-4 bolts?" Tags="|pulley|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18725" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:10:39.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to find another way of stopping the pulley from turning. Are there any holes in it you could use to wedge it with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One technique I have used is to wedge a bit of bar diagonally between two of the bolts, then (un)tighten the others, rotate and repeat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:10:39.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18708" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:22:03.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing you need to know is the impedance (measured in ohms) of the speaker - you might have to hunt for the model number if it doesn't mention it anywhere. Look for a number with a Greek Omega after it - likely to be somewhere around 4 or 8...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new speaker will have to have the same impedance as the one you're removing, to balance the one on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:22:03.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:27:01.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're only having problems with 2,4,R, I'd suspect the gear linkages rather than the clutch - it sounds like it's not going fully into gear, which probably means the fore-aft linkage is loose or misaligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on a Peugeot many years ago, it turned out in that case that the gearbox mount had broken, allowing the 'box to drop enough to pull the linkage out of alignment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:27:01.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T09:02:14.323" Score="6" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies for a very Jeep-centered question, that may not interest everybody. Here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 2009 Wrangler JKU (pre face-lift), equipped with the 2.8 TD engine, Chrysler NSG370 six-speed manual transmission, and the NV241 transfer. The transfer case is directly mated to the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This transfer is a part-time 4x4 system: the vehicle is most of the time in rear-wheel drive. When the front axle is connected, it turns at the same speed as the rear axle, which is fine on slippery surfaces and in straight lines, but quite bad when going through curves on dry roads due to transmission build-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Jeep models have full-time 4x4 transfer cases, such as the NP242 from the Cherokee XJ. These allow some slip from front to back axle, and can more easily be used in situations where one is constantly going from dry asphalt to wet snow and back to dry, often found in mountain driving in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for any advice as to whether a NP242 would be a drop-in replacement for my NP241. Specifically, I am thinking of not having to modify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chassis supports and general shape of the T-box (the swap should not be immediately apparent).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of splines on the clutch output shaft (I think 23 splines?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reduction ratio, 2.72:1 is fine for my purposes (no rock-crawling). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a transfer case from a Grand Cherokee WJ would probably be easier to source from the breakers where I live. Any ideas on which T-case would fit the JK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T21:28:27.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:42:50.727" Title="Wrangler JK transfer box options" Tags="|transmission|jeep|drivetrain|grand-cherokee|transfer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18725" CreationDate="2015-07-23T09:58:34.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technique I use is to tighten the bolts while holding the pulley by hand. Then install the belt. The tension of the belt will hold the pulley so you can finish tightening the bolt to the required spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:58:34.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18725" CreationDate="2015-07-23T10:51:06.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If space permits, use an impact wrench to loosen them. If the impact wrench has some kind of torque-limiting capability then you can use then to tighten the bolts as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T10:51:06.353" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18725" CreationDate="2015-07-23T10:57:35.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap the serpentine belt completely around either ribbed pulley part and hold it on one side to gain purchase (grab both sides of the belt in one place with one hand). Believe me when I say this will give you more than enough purchase to get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have enough purchase by just using your hand, try wrapping the belt around the pulley and grabbing the belt with a pair of Vise-Grips (or other locking pliers), then grab the Vice-Grips and have at it. This should give you enough purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9g4o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arrows denote where the Vice-Grips should be placed. Get the Vice-Grips as close to the pulley as possible. Use enough gripping force to grab the belt so it won't slip, but not enough to damage or destroy the belt itself. You can roll the Vice-Grips back on the pulley for more purchase (will cinch up the belt for more grip on the pulley).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T10:57:35.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18734" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:20:33.440" Score="4" ViewCount="2869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess I better start with a few details on the car in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VW Golf IV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 valve V5 petrol engine (2.3L)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~80k miles on the clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the problem, it feels to me as if the car is down on power, it seems to be a bit reluctant to accelerate at anything over than a leisurely pace lower down the rev range, and even when the revs pick up it doesn't feel like it once did, I appreciate that it isn't going to drive like new after 80k miles, but this power loss seemed to happen over a fairly short period of time, rather than a gradual decay. I have also experienced the car struggling on start-up, we have always had to apply some throttle when starting the car to prevent it from stalling immediately, but the revs seem to be bouncing slightly under where the car tends to idle and the car shakes slightly when this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both myself and the other driver have seen the engine check light come on, but for both of us it went away within ~24 hours. I scanned for codes and the only fault listed was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;P0345 - Powertrain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Camshaft Position Sensor &quot;A&quot; Circuit (Bank 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a little search it seemed that this fault code is a bit vague, and I couldn't find anyone with the same model car and the same code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question to you is would this fault code be consistent with the behaviour I have described? Are they any other tell-tale signs which I should be looking out for? And finally is it worth clearing the fault code to see if it reappears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T16:35:36.130" Title="VW Golf IV Possible Engine Misfire" Tags="|engine|vw|obd-ii|golf|misfire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18733" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:58:59.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means that your camshaft position sensor or crank angle sensor is faulty. Either because they are actually faulty, or there is a wiring problem. Clearing the code won't do much. The symptoms of a bad cam or crank sensor are usually rough idling, difficulty starting and misfiring. Which makes sense, because your ECU gets wrong information regarding the position of the pistons and therefore can't adjust ignition timing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it is more often the crank angle sensor rather than the camshaft position sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T12:40:01.033" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:40:01.033" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18725" CreationDate="2015-07-23T13:57:44.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a flat blade screwdriver sideways against the face of the pulley.  Jam it either between the centre bolt and one of the three or four you are removing or jam it over old bolt and under the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to explain but this picture kind of demonstrates what I mean;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43uzG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43uzG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jammed screwdriver against pulley&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T13:57:44.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18740" CreationDate="2015-07-23T14:16:08.100" Score="4" ViewCount="3294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on old cars for a while and have twisted off a few bolts in inconvenient places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering, all things being equal, which is more likely to result in twisting off a rusted bolt- breaker bar or impact gun? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a particularly nasty one in the frame of a vehicle the other day using a breaker bar and was wondering if I had reached for the impact gun first instead, if that would have made a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already know about using penetrating oil like pb blaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9832" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:20:31.117" Title="Which is least likely to cause twisting off of rusted bolts? Impact gun or breaker bar" Tags="|rust|old-cars|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T14:19:54.027" Score="5" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;IRT &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18696/1995-geo-tracker-shifting-issues&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; ... At first I thought I had it good (the clutch) now it idles too high and the peddle won't come all the way back up. I can't put into first or second and I'm at a loss not sure how to actually do this (never said I was a mechanic). Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do before I take it to a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:28:06.950" Title="ok still not working right 95 Geo Tracker clutch" Tags="|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|tracker|geo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18715" CreationDate="2015-07-23T14:54:33.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine internals can last a very long time. They are generally built to at least survive beyond the standard warranty term for the vehicle in question. This is typically 100K miles in modern vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, improper maintenance, driving beyond the normal parameters of the engine, and contamination can cause rapid deterioration of service life. Given the items suggested by the dealer, it sounds like the head itself may have been damaged, and possibly a valve may have had contact with a piston. Overheating could have caused oiling issues, and the timing chain to stretch, which could cause the VVT system to not work properly, which could result in piston-valve contact. I'd say if you only have to replace the head, timing chain, seals, and fluids though, you've come out on the lucky side. The mechanic may find more things wrong though, once the oil pan and head come off, at which point the whole engine may need to be rebuilt or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T14:54:33.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18741" CreationDate="2015-07-23T14:59:06.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the main catalytic converter and manifold on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra, I believe it was last summer. A few weeks ago, I was on a long trip and the check engine light came on with the following code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0422 - Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had noticed a decline in highway MPG from a typical 33-34 (loaded down with luggage, people, and A/C) to around 30 in the same conditions. Since the cat was fairly recently replaced and MPG was not what it should be, I assumed it was an O2 sensor malfunctioning and throwing off the fuel/air ratio. My understanding was that the O2 sensor in the manifold was the one that helped control the ratio, so I replaced it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 100 miles later, it threw the same code again, so I replaced the downstream O2 sensor. I assumed the issue was resolved since MPG appeared to return to normal. (I'm pretty sure the downstream sensor is just there to monitor, not feed information back to the engine, but it wasn't enough miles for me to refuel and check the MPG.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward over 1000 miles and I've had no issues... until I did. It threw the same code again yesterday. A guy at Auto Zone told me to dump a Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank and reset the code after I've run through it. I haven't yet because I want to get some expert opinions, if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little research online has revealed to me that it's possible that the catalytic converter I bought was not up to snuff. I did buy it for a relatively low price on RockAuto.com. Apparently certain makes, such as Subaru and Toyota, are fairly picky about the quality of cat, but my research suggests that Hyundai is not quite so particular. Additionally, I've probably driven thousands of miles between replacing the cat and the light first coming on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight you have into this issue is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:36:19.303" Title="2001 Elantra keeps throwing the same check engine light code" Tags="|hyundai|catalytic-converter|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18736" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:20:31.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, using an impact gun will be less likely to cause the fastener to fail. Here is my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact guns provide high torque for very short periods of time. This jarring action or &quot;impact&quot; is going to be more likely to free the fastener. A breaker bar has a continuous torque applied to it. This will be less likely to break it free and will be more likely to shear off the fastener at a stress riser due to the constant twisting force which is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, this is not a &lt;em&gt;hard and fast rule&lt;/em&gt;. Things happen all the time. It also depends on the amount of torque your impact gun can provide. Obviously, if you are applying 1000 lb-ft of torque through a massive 1&quot; drive impact gun, while supplying it with 200 psi of air pressure, and doing this to a 1/8&quot; fastener, all bets are off. Using a little common sense with whatever type of fastener and whatever type of tool, you should be in good shape. No tool usage is fool proof; no fastener is immune to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:20:31.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18739" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:36:19.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the P0422 code, it can either be the O2 or the cat which is bad. Do as @JuannStrauss said at first and see if you can clean the O2 sensor. You don't do this by taking it out, but rather running some cleaner through the engine. My preferred method for this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SeaFoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't fix your ills, you need to figure out if your cat is performing or not. One way to do this is to check its temperature. Not with a rectal thermometer, no. You want to use a digital laser thermometer. You'll need to check the temperature just before and just after the cat, where the tail pipe enters/exists it (right at the joint). If the cat is working well, the temperature &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the cat should be about 200°F more than before the cat. If the temp is about the same or is distinctly lower, your cat is not working well and should be replaced. Should a new cat need to be replace after two years? In my thinking, absolutely not, but stranger things have happened. If you do need it replaced, it may still be under warranty, so check that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that your after cat O2 sensor is bad once again. Some brands of O2 sensors just don't work well with some brands of vehicles. It may have become fouled out for some reason. This seems like the most likely issue here. I like the Denso brand of O2 sensors for several reasons: they are usually cheaper; they come with a small tube of copper anti-seize; they work well for their price point. O2 sensors should work for longer than a year also, but you never know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:36:19.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2423" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:55:44.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some vehicles the Throttle Position Sensor can be adjusted. You can loosen the screws and gently move the TPS until the idle speed changes. &lt;strong&gt;I do not recommend doing this.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:55:44.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18708" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:07:00.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diameter and depth and impedance.  Might as well do both since speakers are almost always sold in pairs.  If you go to crutchfield or bestbuy or just about any website that sells car speakers, they should have a lookup tool for the size speaker you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you just want to replace one, you might want to go to the junkyard and look for the same or similar model car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:07:00.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15444" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:20:24.043" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water pump is the problem, replace and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:20:24.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18747" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:25:38.320" Score="2" ViewCount="6222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a manual or detailed catalog or service manual of a specific car in order to know for example all its part codes to buy original replacement parts, from pieces and paint (Not owner's manual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example there are some pieces or places in the car that I can find the part code also for the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm looking more for a catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 2014 Honda Civic EX Sedan by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7084/buying-car-parts-online&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; that someone suggested to call the dealer but if I want to custom my car or replace pieces, it will be annoying to call them anytime for this. Is this information available to customers from dealers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:32:59.297" Title="Where can I find a reference for Honda part numbers?" Tags="|honda|civic|manual-transmission|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14724" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:39:13.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a typical case in the computer industry of &lt;em&gt;fixed while troubleshooting&lt;/em&gt;. Not much else to be said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:39:13.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18745" CreationDate="2015-07-23T17:17:45.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is what you are looking for, but I often reverse engineer through looking at online sources like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rockauto.com&lt;/a&gt;. I will find the part I need on there. Many of them will have the associated original part number if not the original parts listed themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T17:17:45.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T17:18:29.803" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the dimmer switch on my Mazda truck and the low beams won't work but the high beams do. I've changed the headlights and checked all the fuses and relays. What should I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11464" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T17:22:14.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T17:22:14.133" Title="Headlights on my Mazda truck aren't working" Tags="|electrical|mazda|headlight|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-12-21T03:28:07.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17159" CreationDate="2015-07-23T17:22:17.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the battery at the terminals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the positive on the battery with the ground to the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double-check that the alternator is hooked up correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there power to one system but not another? Check your fuses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't getting power to &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; start at the source (battery) and work your way in. Follow the wires. Check your grounds. Don't forget to check any fusible links, they look like wires but are actually fuses. (old car thing) You can squeeze them and look for a &quot;hollow&quot; spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T17:22:17.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:05:25.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You aren't the only one to have this problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to what I'm reading the Ragosine grease was probably discontinued because they contained lead at some point. They still make greases to that MIL spec though, so &lt;em&gt;check out ROYCO 49 as a substitute for the Ragosine Listate&lt;/em&gt;. I'm referencing this site and your spec: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=16&amp;amp;t=17105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=16&amp;amp;t=17105&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..and according to this website you can use &lt;em&gt;Shell Turbo 68 to replace the Turbo 41&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lubebase.com/cgi-bin/ctl/lube/Petro-Canada-TURBOFLO-R-O-68?id=8756&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lubebase.com/cgi-bin/ctl/lube/Petro-Canada-TURBOFLO-R-O-68?id=8756&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now since you only need a little bit I would call a local oil &amp;amp; lube supplier to see if they can get you tubes or agree to buy the bucket in return for your spreading the word and sending people their way. Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry though, I can't tell recommend what to buy off the shelf but hopefully this helps put you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:05:25.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17599" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:12:23.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure there was a recall for the ignition switch on your car. My 2002 Civic had this same problem, and that was the component causing the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR: Inspect/replace the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:12:23.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18745" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:19:32.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Honda's website, dude. Call the dealer and ask if you can buy the parts book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2014-civic-4-ex-cvt&amp;amp;sn=&amp;amp;b=B++45&amp;amp;dl=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2014-civic-4-ex-cvt&amp;amp;sn=&amp;amp;b=B++45&amp;amp;dl=&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:19:32.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2015-07-23T20:05:18.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Daniel, and also comfirmed this with Audi. As long as they are the same size and there isnt a major difference in thread wear you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11468" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T20:05:18.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18776" CreationDate="2015-07-23T20:06:36.537" Score="-1" ViewCount="1817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to determine the diameter of several automobile inner tubes (ranging from compact cars to semis); as in the diameter within the tube itself (possibly the &quot;width&quot;, or even circumference of the tube).  I'm referring to the measurement on the dotted line displayed in red on the poor illustration below (the part that looks like stitching on a football).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aqzji.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aqzji.png&quot; alt=&quot;inner tube diameter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's an obscure request, but I can't seem to find a size chart or a reference to the measurement in any online guides.  Any advice on how/where I can gather this info (short of calling a bunch of vendors)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm working on an online calculator that determines cubic inches within inner tube sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11466" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:24:49.897" Title="How to find the diameter of an automobile inner tube" Tags="|tires|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4029" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:29:45.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked mechanics and they say it's usually the ignition coils for a misfire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11470" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T16:56:41.207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T16:56:41.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:30:09.850" Score="2" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a service engine soon light and and scanned it. It came out to be cylinder 5 misfire. My truck shook a little on idle more when I gassed it. I talked to some mechanics and told me it would be the coil. So I replaced the coil and the vibration didn't stop. So I went ahead and replaced the spark plug as well. the vibration was different now and now I can smell of burning gasoline. Or the smell of fireworks. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11470" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T09:58:27.857" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:58:27.857" Title="1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 sparkplug/ignition coil replacement" Tags="|engine|ford|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:41:26.760" Score="2" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem for several months now. I started hearing this cracking noise when I turned left of right. Only when I've driven the truck a while. I've replaced the boots from both sides and brakes and roters as well. I still have the same cracking noise coming from the bottom. Sounds like it's coming from the front differential. I have no idea what it is. Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11470" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T21:50:26.397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T23:18:24.970" Title="1999 Ford Expedition 4x4 5.4 front cracking noise" Tags="|ford|noise|differential|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:46:25.867" Score="2" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a carburetor &quot;KF Standard of Japan&quot; apparently  Zongshen ZS125ST Carburetor 24mm KF Standard of Japan.  What other makes/models is it compatible with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11471" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T21:46:25.867" Title="What is Zongshen ZS125ST Carburetor 24mm KF Standard of Japan compatible with?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|part-identification|suzuki|parts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-14T18:18:04.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18759" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:49:29.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you replaced the #5 coil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w1WAo.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be the front driver's side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did, you might have gotten a bad coil. Another thing to try is to swap out the new coil with a different coil and see if the problem worsens or follows where you put the new coil. You could also do this with the old coil to see if the problem follows the coil or if it stays where it's at. If it stays where it's at, the problem is in the wiring. You'll need to follow that back to the ECU and power source to figure out where the break is at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T21:49:29.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18760" CreationDate="2015-07-23T23:18:24.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to identify exactly where the sound is coming from. To do this, jack up the front end and put it on jack stands. If it's what I'm thinking it is, you can probably keep the tires straight, then have one person hold one tire while you turn the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise is coming from the differential, as you are saying, you are probably going to need a new one. I am not sure if your Expedition comes with a locking front differential (as in a posi unit or whatever Ford calls it), but would assume it probably does. If the noise is occurring inside the differential, it may be that the clutches inside of it are bad and causing the noises. The noise would only occur when the two tires are spinning at different speeds. When the tires are spinning at the same speed, the differential turns as one unit and would not exhibit any noises in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T23:18:24.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16588" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:10:30.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve, also called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, is used to regulate idle speed. The IAC valve opens a small bypass circuit that allows air to bypass the throttle. Increasing the volume of air that flows through the bypass circuit around the throttle increases idle speed. Reducing the bypass airflow decreases idle speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ISC valve is controlled by the engine's computer (powertrain control module or PCM). The computer monitors idle speed by counting ignition pulses from the ignition module in the distributor or crankshaft position sensor when the throttle position sensor or throttle switch signals the computer that the throttle is closed and the engine is at idle. When the engine's idle speed is above or below the preset range in the computer's program, the computer tells the ISC valve to either increase or decrease the bypass air flow. Other sensor inputs from the coolant sensor, brake switch and speed sensor may also be used by the computer to regulate idle speed according to the operating condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Idle speed may also be increased when the A/C compressor is engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you, I would make sure that the computer is not receiving false readings from the sensors I mentioned above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T01:10:30.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:38:55.193" Score="4" ViewCount="2563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently have an engine overheat issue and see my previous post for details:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18715/how-long-does-items-in-the-engine-last-in-general-for-standard-size-cars?noredirect=1#comment27933_18715&quot;&gt;How long does items in the engine last in general for standard size cars?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting follow up on that at the same dealership:&#xA;They said they need $375 labor fee to open the engine top and diagnosis the problem. I agree. So they open the top to see the CAM SHAFT, etc. However, I am not convinced with their recommendation, i.e., pay another $3000+ to replace the following stuff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CYLINDER HEAD, REPLACE INTAKE VALVE&#xA;CAM CHAIN AND HYDRAULIC TENSIONER (REPLACE INTAKE CAMSHAFT, INTAKE VLAVE AND ROCKER)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a second opinion. So I ask them to put things back and I will drive away to another shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, they refuse to do so and say once everything is put back, my engine may not even start. Then they say, if I really want to do this, I will need to pay another $1000 to assembly everything they have disassemble. Note that the engine is not completely disassemble, they just open the cover so they CAM SHAFT is exposed. I know that I am not experienced with cars, however, I feel something strange about it. Is this scenario normal that they charge so much just to put things back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: They suggest me to tow the car to another place rather than assemble it. So I avoid paying for the assemble fee as well as the disassemble fee at another place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I don't normally challenge what the dealership tells me about repairs. But I tells them to fix the engine overheat issue and they ask for 1500. Now two weeks later, I found another issue about the sound. They ask for another 3k. The issue may already be there when I go and repair the first time because my friend happen to be on my car that day and he suggested me to take a look at the sound (that day was two weeks later after the first repair). Moreover, when I spend the 1500k to replace bunch of stuff, I also spend some money to do the alignment. But the driving wheel turn out to be even more misaligned after they &quot;fix&quot; it and they are blaming me that I did not call them right after I found that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 1: So I call the dealer today to ask for the details of the $1000 fee. My service advisor said he will check it and then after 5 seconds he said it is $500. After telling me $1000 for three days now he change to $500 in 5 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11452" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T04:55:33.740" Title="Is it reasonable to charge the customer $1000+ to assemble the top of the engine?" Tags="|engine|vw|repair|passat|dealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:44:52.560" Score="4" ViewCount="7687" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Honda Civic DX 2000, the Check Engine Light (CEL) has been on for a while, so I brought the car to AutoZone to have the OBD code read, but I was told that no code is stored in the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I tried to get the OBD code myself by shorting the Service Check Connector (SCC) terminals. The SCC looks like the small connector in the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDkpr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDkpr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scc&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.instructables.com/FSX/9QXV/F6S8S0A5/FSX9QXVF6S8S0A5.LARGE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructables.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually read an OBD code before by using this method before, so I am shorting the correct SCC terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the following things happen this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the ignition switch to position I, the CEL goes on and then goes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I start the engine, the CEL is off first. However, when the engine is started and then the engine speed drops a little, 10 seconds, then the CEL light comes on and does not flash at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11475" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T21:18:39.087" LastActivityDate="2021-10-02T17:26:36.990" Title="Honda Civic 2000 DX, Check Engine Light Becomes On but Does Not Give OBD Code" Tags="|honda|civic|cel|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18133" CreationDate="2015-07-24T02:39:45.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience this is worn brake pads, have them replaced. Sometimes they wear unevenly because of poor alignment, or a bad bushing, or a rock stuck in the caliper. Replace the pads. Inspect the old pads for abnormal wear patterns. Report back. If you aren't sure, take it to a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T02:39:45.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T08:09:57.660" Score="5" ViewCount="7831" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&quot;&gt;CAN bus Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAN bus is one of five protocols used in the on-board diagnostics&#xA;  (OBD)-II vehicle diagnostics standard. The OBD-II standard has been&#xA;  mandatory for all cars and light trucks sold in the United States&#xA;  since 1996, and the EOBD standard has been mandatory for all petrol&#xA;  vehicles sold in the European Union since 2001 and all diesel vehicles&#xA;  since 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot;&gt;OBD Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; further states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2001: The European Union makes EOBD mandatory for all gasoline&#xA;  (petrol) vehicles sold in the European Union, starting in MY2001 (see&#xA;  European emission standards Directive 98/69/EC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2003: The European Union makes EOBD mandatory for all diesel vehicles&#xA;  sold in the European Union&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2008: All cars sold in the United States are required to use the ISO&#xA;  15765-4 signaling standard (a variant of the Controller Area Network&#xA;  (CAN) bus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except the 2008 date these quotes primarily talk about the OBD/EOBD. How is the OBD and CAN exactly related? Is CAN a mandatory protocol for OBD-II/EOBD? In case it was I see a conflict in the 1996 and 2008 dates for United States...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final question is simple - are there certain dates since which all cars sold in particular markets have to use CAN bus for the internal communication between car's electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am asking this is I want to reverse engineer the signaling from various vehicle sensors (steering angle sensor etc.). If I knew something like &quot;all European cars since 2004 use CAN for the internal communications between electronic parts&quot; that would help me a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the CAN bus is somehow mandatory since 2008 in the US at least. However, I do not know to a what degree in detail - usually there are CAN bus pin-outs on the OBD-II connector. However, there may be multiple CAN buses present within a single vehicle - one for critical functions like ABS, ESP etc. and another for infotainment like radio etc. I wonder if any of these buses has to be connected to the OBD pin-out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T09:17:19.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:33:44.580" Title="Since when is CAN bus mandatory for new vehicles?" Tags="|sensor|computer|can-bus|electronics|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T08:19:17.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of this is true.  In the same way as there was an EU Directive that all cars be equipped with ABS but TVR didn't subscribe to this.  My uncle has just sold a 2005 Caterham Se7en CSR-200 which used MBE management and was definitely not CAN-BUS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're building another one in October of this year and if it genuinely is CAN-BUS I'll let you know but I have a feeling it won't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T08:19:17.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:06:51.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think CAN is a necessary part of OBD, it's just the most commonly used system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD requirements are for consistent diagnostics (so that, in theory, any car can be plugged into a standard reader and give a standard set of error codes), wheras CAN is a method for the internal components of the car to communicate (similar in many ways to the USB standard you'll use with your computer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Steve says, many such requirements only apply to mass producers anyway, with low-volume or individual-car makers being exempt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:06:51.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:16:58.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refuse to pay - they're trying to coerce you to use their services...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most cars, removing the cam cover is a 5 minute operation, and replacing it would be similar. Even a really complicated one isn't going to take more than half an hour, unless loads of stuff needs to be removed to get to it. I'd therefore consider 1-2 hours labour (at however much your local labour rate is) to be reasonable for the whole job - dismantle, diagnose, reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it really did need $375 worth of labour to dismantle it, reassembling should cost no more than that, if not less...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:16:58.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18774" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:18:39.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Jeep Wrangler is the more 4x4 geared range from Jeep.  Most recently produced but has a long history of makers, starting in the world war.  The most recent variation is the JK range, and started in 2007, although the engine was updated in 2012 from the 3.8l V6 to the 3.6 V8 Pentastar - apparently more efficient and more powerful (although opinions are varied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11438" LastEditorUserId="11438" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T12:01:18.133" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T12:01:18.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18775" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:18:39.187" Score="0" Body="A four wheel drive vehicle produced by Jeep" OwnerUserId="11438" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:03:49.503" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:03:49.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18756" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:24:49.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap a tape measure around the tube. Do this enough times with different sizes, and you'll find a pattern. From that pattern, you can derive a formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or try this: based on the rim size and profile of the wheel this tube goes into, you can determine the height of the tube. From that, using Pi, you can derive the circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:24:49.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:28:49.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage comes from your differential heating up excessively due to increased load. If you drive slow and keep it short, you can go on for months or even years without a problem. You'll only have a problem if you go on a roadtrip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:28:49.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:44:53.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a distinction that needs to be made between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OBD: this is an interface, that specifies the physical and electrical parameters required to connect a diagnostic computer and the car's electronics in a standard way. This is the bit that is mandatory by legal requirement, so that a car manufacturer cannot &quot;lock in&quot; its vehicles by requiring service to be performed using only its very own diagnostic tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CAN bus. CAN is also an industry standard (originally designed by Bosch), but refers to the communication between the different electronic parts in the vehicle. However, it is only one standard among many, and while it is possibly the most used, there are many other possibilities implemented by various brands of automobile electronics. There are also several varieties, even within the CAN bus family.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All components in a given vehicle will need to use the same bus standard, and indeed many manufacturers will obviously stick to a same standard over many models in their range. However, they are all forced to provide an OBD-compliant diagnostic port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to be made is regarding EU Directives. The situation in Europe is rather complex since there are two different types of legal document:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An EU Regulation is immediately applicable and enforceable in all Union member states.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An EU Directive is not immediately applicable. Instead, it needs to be transposed into each member state's own law in order to have effects. The process of transposition also has some differences in each state, and in many cases is flexible enough so that the legal texts produced in member states in response to a certain Directive may show some differences, specifically as regards exceptions that are permissible (e.g. for low-volume car manufacturing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exceptions set out in EU member state legislations explain why the British automobile sector is not held to the same legal requirements as on the Continent. For example, it is relatively commonplace for car owners to replace elderly engines with a newer block, even from a different manufacturer (such as a Nissan engine in a Series Land Rover), or using a different fuel. This would be really very difficult to do legally in France, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:44:53.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T10:23:34.203" Score="2" ViewCount="5925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to take my car to Mr Clutch on soon, but I wanted to see what every else's impression is of my car's problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night I was driving along the motorway, accelerating to 70mph, when all of a sudden 5th gear just slipped and a loud grinding noise ensued. I played around to see if it was repeatable, and low and behold, whenever I approached 3000 rpm the same thing would happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MOT is up to date. I got my car serviced last month—timing belt was replaced, along with various fluids. I got the clutch replaced (hence why I'm going to Mr Clutch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since I've got the clutch replaced, I've been facing problems. When driving home from work my car was making this metal scraping sound. I thought it was the clutch because it stopped almost entirely when I put my foot down on the clutch. Taking my foot off the clutch pronounced the scraping sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the fact that sometimes when I put the car in reverse gear, it doesn't engage properly and there's a loud grinding sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked to the guy at Mr Clutch, and he told me to bring it in so he could take a look. Over the phone he could only speculate that it was the clutch or—worse—the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all this, the gearbox has become sticky. After the episode on the motorway, the gearbox became stiff; I could get it into 5th at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this? I'm not good with diagnosing cars as this is my first one. Any suggestions or even help in diagnosing this myself would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Polo 1.4, manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11481" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:28:53.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:28:53.120" Title="5th gear slipping of 5th gear at 3000 revs, but not into neutral" Tags="|vw|clutch|manual-transmission|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18768" CreationDate="2015-07-24T11:19:28.750" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CEL means engine is not burning properly and it could mean a dozen things. Even without OBD code, you could still solve the mystery by observing the symptoms. Normally symptom is more pronouced at idle. It looks like you might have to do without the help of OBD II. Gather more symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T11:19:28.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T11:35:33.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How is the OBD and CAN exactly related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.can-cia.de/index.php?id=161&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Controller Area Network (CAN)&lt;/a&gt; is ISO 11898 standard. It, like most other networks, is based off of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OSI_model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OSI model&lt;/a&gt;. It specifies certain parameters for communications between vehicle systems. CAN was first specified in 1986 by Robert Bosch at the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) congress. CAN uses serial communications over a two wire system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;On Board Diagnostics (OBD)&lt;/a&gt; in one form or another has been around since 1968 when VW introduced it on some of their vehicles. It was a rather rudimentary system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relationship between the two is one of convenience. The CAN standard is simple to implement and is meant to be used in vehicles. It was later used (in one form or another) in other places where a serial architecture was needed, such as in sea going vessels and factories. It is a marriage of two standard which works in the digital age. Both standards continue to evolve as emissions requirements and other standards for vehicles grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is CAN a mandatory protocol for OBD-II/EOBD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN is not a mandatory protocol for either OBD-II or EOBD. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iso.org/iso/home/store/catalogue_ics/catalogue_detail_ics.htm?csnumber=46045&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISO 15765-4:2011&lt;/a&gt; standard states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ISO 15765-4:2011 places restrictions on those International Standards for the fulfilment of the regulations. &lt;strong&gt;It does not specify in-vehicle CAN bus architecture&lt;/strong&gt;, but seeks to ensure that the vehicle's regulated CAN communications comply with external test equipment requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis: mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ISO 15765-4:2011 defines the requirements to successfully establish, maintain and terminate communication with a vehicle that implements the requirements of the OBD/WWH-OBD regulations. Plug-and-play communication capabilities among vehicles and test equipment are defined to assure the interoperation of external test equipment and vehicles. ISO 15765-4:2011 details all of the OSI layer requirements to achieve this goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this states that the CAN bus architecture is a set of standards which specifies the communication, but not how to get the communication done. I realize this is probably splitting hairs. A manufacturer can use any &lt;em&gt;method&lt;/em&gt; for the communication they desire, as long as the OBD can communicate with the test equipment. This is more of a way to allow test equipment to be standardized than for anything else. This latest standard was published in 2011 and modifies the previous version which was published in 2005. Have no fear though, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iso.org/iso/home/store/catalogue_ics/catalogue_detail_ics.htm?csnumber=67245&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISO is working on a new revision&lt;/a&gt; which is under development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embedded.com/electronics-blogs/murphy-s-law/4024614/A-short-trip-on-the-CAN-bus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This web page&lt;/a&gt; describes the CAN bus architecture from a higher level. It gives a great breakdown of why CAN bus is used in today's automotive industry. One of the last things he states in his article is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAN is going to dominate the automotive scene for many years to come. It's also having considerable impact in other industries where noise immunity and fault tolerance are more important than raw speed. Because CAN hardware has become so cheap and is integrated into so many microcontrollers, it's a design option well worth considering the next time you want to get your embedded systems talking to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated before, because CAN is so widely used, it's going to be with us for a while, both in the automotive industry and anywhere else its properties are needed to fulfill the communications needs between nodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... are there certain dates since which all cars sold in particular markets have to use CAN bus for the internal communication between car's electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, the marriage of OBD and CAN bus is one of convenience. CAN is way to make it happen, not a end-all-do-all. No manufacturer is required to use it, though as of right now, it's the easiest way to get communications done. There is no reason, right now, to reinvent the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T11:35:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2015-07-24T12:12:58.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is reasonable. Remember, &lt;strong&gt;you &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; agreed to the cost of disassembly&lt;/strong&gt;, which was the initial cost of $375. Taking things apart is usually &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; easier than putting them back together. Considering what is in their list of repairs, there was more than just the valve cover removed to figure out the issues. I'll almost guarantee you they removed the head as well. Had you told them you only want a diagnosis based on external factors without the dismantling of the engine, you would have been in far better shape here. The problem is, you agreed to the disassembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors to consider for reassembly costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will take more time to put the engine back together than it did to pull it apart&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine/cam timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean up of parts prior to reassembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll need new parts just to put it back together&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming they removed the head, you'll need a new head gasket. You cannot reuse the previous one with &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; expectation of it running again. If you did, you can expect further damage to the engine, which they would then be responsible for (not going to happen).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other non-reusable parts such as torque-to-yield fasteners (head bolts) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement of other items, such as oil, coolant, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shop costs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disposal fees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, getting the engine back together using the bad does not ensure the engine will run, especially considering what they are specifying as needing replaced (valve, cam, and timing chain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with what @Movemorecommentslinktotop said in his comment yesterday in your other question, it may be better for you to source a different used engine to replace the one you have in the car now. At the very least, you should &lt;em&gt;ask the shop if there is a cheaper way to go about the fix&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not sure if $3000 is reasonable for the work they have listed, but putting a used engine in place of yours should be less than that (IMHO). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with what you said about them suggesting you get it towed to a different shop for evaluation and fix, this is not unreasonable and actually makes sense. If you do have it put back together, the next shop will have to pull everything apart so &lt;em&gt;they can do their own diagnosis&lt;/em&gt;. This will cost you another $375 (or whatever they charge). Who's to say that shop won't be more expensive than the shop you are at now. Any &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; part which you put on your car to get it back together will be a complete loss, so you can expect to pay for them again. Regardless of why the car is now dismantled, a tow charge, at this point, is far more economical than is getting the engine back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T12:12:58.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18779" CreationDate="2015-07-24T13:02:09.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch is responsible for disengaging the engine from the transmission.  There are basically 2 issues you can have with a clutch - slipping, and not disengaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slipping will occur when your clutch is engaged, but the engine revs up without accelerating the vehicle, as if you were still riding the clutch.  This means you need a new clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not disengaging is the result of a broken or unadjusted part.  This will become apparent when you can not go into gear without first shutting off the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem does not seem to be either of these.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hearing a scraping sound when the car is idling in neutral with the clutch engaged is the main shaft bearing.  The bearing is worn, allowing the shaft to be slightly off center when the clutch is engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Popping out of gear is also an issue that would be caused by internal problems in your transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by checking the oil in the transmission.  I fear that either it is low, or has the wrong type of oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T13:02:09.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18768" CreationDate="2015-07-24T13:13:47.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy your own reader. Look at the ELM327 bluetooth reader. It's about $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your check engine light is on the car had a code. To be honest, this sounds like a case of a human error. Luckily, Eric the Car Guy has a video about pulling Honda codes without a scanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch the video and make sure you are doing it correctly:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T13:13:47.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18768" CreationDate="2015-07-24T13:30:03.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the photograph attached is an actual photograph of your car then the OBD port appears to be in two pieces.  The blue connector on the right of the photograph should be clipped into the main piece along with the other one already in place on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With only half a loom connected, you are unlikely to see any OBD codes although I believe surprisingly few pins are actually used to transmit fault codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T13:30:03.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T14:54:39.200" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado C1500 with factory (non-bose) sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have upgraded my speakers using Kicker DSC65/DSC654, and now am looking to add a amp for the speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in a unit that has four high level inputs which splits the rear input with a crossover for a subwolfer. It should then have five/six pair of high level outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done extensive research, but I'm afraid I don't know how to look for this. So far my solution involves combining a crossover with an amp. So for an example, buying both a Kicker KX2 (03KX2), a monoblock amp for the sub, and a 4 channel amp for the four 6.5&quot; speakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a extended cab truck with no in cabin trunk space and the speakers are 50/60w RMS, and I'm looking for a smallish sub in the 300w range, so I favor the PIONEER TSSWX2502.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUESTION: If I split the rear inputs with a cross over will it lower the impedance and burn up the head unit?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T01:09:29.893" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:30:34.753" Title="Crossover amp selection question" Tags="|chevrolet|car|audio|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:31:33.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two requirements are separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBDII is required in all vehicles since 1996.  This is primarily an emissions related regulation to formalize how vehicles would relay emissions failures to the user and to mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard has many parts, but it primarily designated a connector, its pinout, and allowed one of five different electrical signalling standards to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these electrical signalling standards is CAN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward nearly two decades, and for a variety of reasons, most cars have CAN buses even if they still choose to use a different signalling standard on the OBDII connector for diagnostic purposes.  However, since the pins are available for several signalling types, many automotive manufacturers also provide access to one or more of the CAN buses on the OBDII connector.  This enables technicians to connect one cable for a wide variety of vehicle processor manipulation, while still providing the required minimum OBDII requirements over their older style communications. This also means they don't have to upgrade all their shops to the latest communications if all the shop needs is basic diagnostics information. This proprietary use of the OBDII connector was explicitly allowed for in the 1996 standard, as long as it &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; provided diagnostic communication following the standard for at least one of the allowed signalling interfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the 2008 regulation means is if the vehicle puts CAN on the OBDII connector, regardless of whatever other diagnostic signalling they provide, the CAN must adhere to the basic diagnostic requirements, even if originally intended for proprietary use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles that don't put CAN to the OBDII connector don't have to adhere to this 2008 regulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while vehicle manufacturers can choose to remove their CAN from the connector, and only supply one of the other four diagnostics signalling, most (all?) have chosen to keep the flexibility they gained when they added their CAN bus to it, and they've modified their CAN protocols to adhere to the new regulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that while the 2008 regulation doesn't &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; CAN to be used for diagnostics, it has effectively made it so most vehicles today now provide CAN diagnostics at the OBDII connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T15:31:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18791" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:46:20.193" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a replacement of my front grille (there is a huge crack on it) for my 2014 Honda Civic EX Sedan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that this is a reference code for the part &lt;strong&gt;HO1200216&lt;/strong&gt; but I found in the estore of &lt;a href=&quot;http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2014-civic-4-ex-cvt&amp;amp;sn=&amp;amp;b=B%20%2045&amp;amp;dl=#002&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda&lt;/a&gt; that the part number is &lt;strong&gt;71121-TR3-A11&lt;/strong&gt; (price between $115 - $159)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in some pages (mostly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-OEM-13-14-Civic-Grille-71121TR3A01-/131482625006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;) have the same part but with another number &lt;strong&gt;71121-TR3-A01&lt;/strong&gt; (price between $50 - $89)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the difference? Material, composition, original, quality, etc. All pages state that is compatible with my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand in some pages when they say OE Replacement and others OEM (I think this is a original part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastEditorUserId="11353" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T16:52:31.373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:52:31.373" Title="Differences between Honda front grille part numbers" Tags="|honda|civic|parts|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18790" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:18:16.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there are two different grills (at least) for different models of your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~base~fr~grille~71121-TR3-A01.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;71121-TR3-A01&lt;/a&gt; fits the following vehicles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxiuA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxiuA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~base~fr~grille~71121-TR3-A11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;71121-TR3-A11&lt;/a&gt; fits the following vehicles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/clEmh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/clEmh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's basically the difference between the GX and EX models in this instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:18:16.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18832" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:43:53.887" Score="4" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Chevrolet Colorado 5cyl. 4x4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello. I just changed my oil after my &quot;change oil&quot; indicator came on. &#xA;New filter, new oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my &quot;change oil&quot; indicator is still showing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to clear out the codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11486" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:24:35.307" Title="oil change indicator on after oil change 2004 colorado" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:46:53.073" Score="1" ViewCount="3252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda civic. I recharged my ac with refrigerant but it only last about 3 days before the cold air stop blowing. I assume this would mean that the leak is pretty bad. Air is still blowing though. Would the best option be to run the dye to find the leak and then seal it if possible or replace the part? I really don't want to take it to a mechanic and be charged 200-300++&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11485" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:21:11.790" Title="AC leak best solution" Tags="|honda|civic|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18801" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:47:55.667" Score="2" ViewCount="5549" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;Sleeve N Seal&lt;/em&gt; is a thin-walled metal ring ~1&quot; deep with an accompanying tube of &quot;seal&quot;.  It comes with some timing cover gasket sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install it, you heat the ring up in the oven on 500 degrees for 10 minutes. Then, wearing gloves, you run out to your vehicle and place it on the dampener snout (crankshaft where the harmonic balancer sits.)  You may tap gently on it to get it on or use the including paste as a lube (but the paste isn't necessary as a glue because the ring fits with a very tight, interference fit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I determine if the &lt;em&gt;Sleeve 'N' Seal&lt;/em&gt; is needed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:40:46.670" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:40:46.670" Title="When to Use a Sleeve 'N' Seal?" Tags="|engine|gasket|seal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18793" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:05:39.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to reset it. There should be a button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these instructions on a forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition to RUN with the engine OFF. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press and release the reset button in the driver information center (DIC) until the OIL LIFE message is displayed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appear on the DIC display, press and hold the reset stem until several beeps sound. This confirms the OIL LIFE system has been reset. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the key to lock. If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when you start the engine, the ENGINE OIL LIFE system has not reset. Repeat the procedure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://coloradofans.com/forums/67-technical-questions-tips-how/72548-tip-gm-oil-life-system-how-reset-change-oil-message.html&quot;&gt;http://coloradofans.com/forums/67-technical-questions-tips-how/72548-tip-gm-oil-life-system-how-reset-change-oil-message.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:05:39.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18794" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:15:49.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, A shop will just be filling your system with refrigerant and dye, then run your a/c for a few hours and look for the source of the issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, before you can fix anything AC related you need the system to be vacuumed, so your not expelling refrigerant into the air.  Even if it is leaking out, there is usually still a bit left in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:15:49.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:33:44.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD is a standard for a diagnostics port that provides emissions-related info on the diagnostics port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief its purpose isn't to prevent lock-in by car manufacturers but only to allow service centers a standard way to access emissions-related info required for mandatory checks like the &quot;MOT test&quot; (as they call it in the UK). The actually interesting stuff (interesting to an actual mechanic and not just to a country who wants to rip you off because your car rejects 0,001g more CO2 than it should) is still hidden behind proprietary protocols, that's why these OBD scanners are useless and you're still forced to buy manufacturer-specific diagnostic devices/software (often counterfeits or stolen devices, as manufacturers themselves don't sell them) if you want to do anything on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN is a bus often used in cars to interconnect their different computers and allow them to communicate. The OBD port should use CAN to talk to the diagnostic device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the fact that the OBD port talks CAN doesn't actually mean the car itself uses CAN to interconnect its computers - it may be using whatever technology it likes, let it be a proprietary protocol or even Ethernet*, it will still be compliant to the regulations as long as it talks CAN on the OBD port and provides the basic values required by the standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*bad idea due to latency and unnecessary complexity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11487" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:33:44.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18787" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:47:07.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your solution is probably one of the best ways to accomplish what you want done.  I am 99% positive there is no single component (for a vehicle) that does everything you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask your question in a more general way and don't ask for recommendations, you'll get a lot better responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:47:07.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18787" CreationDate="2015-07-24T19:12:05.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS &lt;a href=&quot;http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/car-subwoofers/what-are-the-differences-between-single-and-dual-voice-coil-subwoofers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SVC&lt;/a&gt; (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options include those you have mentioned which are common:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A single 5 channel amp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 channel amp + monoblock amp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have more flexibility in your system for future upgrades. For example, if you wanted to get an additional subwoofer, having a 5 channel amp with a lot of power in a single channel (800w+ RMS) can be be rare and more expensive. A single 5 channel amp can be cleaner and easier to install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically what you need to look for in an amplifier if you go with either option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RMS Power @ 4 ohms 60 watts x 4 channels (Full range channels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RMS Power @ 4 ohms 400 watts x 1 channel (Subwoofer channel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to &lt;strong&gt;match or exceed&lt;/strong&gt; the RMS power of your speaker with your amp. The specs above are the bare minimum of what you should look for. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CYB9JOJJ30Z/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers/shopping_guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; article from Crutchfield can provide you with more information on what to look for in an amplifier. They also suggest that your amp power should be rated at 75% more than your speaker's RMS rating (although I have never heard this number until now, use your discretion). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need a crossover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of coaxial speakers already contain crossover within them so an external one is not needed. Multi-channel amplifiers will usually have high-pass and low-pass filters built in which serve as a crossover. It all depends on what you want in your system and how much you're willing to spend. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mDmQCcnzSo9/learn/learningcenter/car/crossovers_faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is another article from Crutchfield with more information on crossovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I split the rear inputs with a cross over will it lower the impedance and burn up the head unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With electronic crossovers (like the one you're leaning towards), the load of the speakers will be handled by the amp and the crossover will have no effect on impedance. With passive crossovers, you would probably want to ensure you are getting the impedance you require by testing with a multimeter if you are using something custom or not designed for your speakers. Passive crossovers usually are included with speakers that require them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastEditorUserId="10702" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T16:30:34.753" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:30:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2015-07-24T20:06:58.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run your fingernail across the surface of the dampener where the seal usually rides (you can usually see a ring around the snout of it). If your fingernail does not detect any kind of ridges (well, valley, actually), it's fine. You'll probably see the ring where the seal rides, but if you cannot &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; it with your fingernail, it's fine. If there is a slight ridge there, you can usually clean it up with some emory paper. If a couple quick strokes with emory paper doesn't clean things up, you need the sleeve. If there is a deeper ridge which will not clean up quickly with the emory paper, you need the sleeve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to remember about the sleeve is, when you get it, the new seal which goes in the timing cover will be a matched size to the sleeve, so will be a bit bigger than the original one would be. Do not try to use a sleeve with an original seal it will be ruined short order and you'll be pulling it all back apart to do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side point. In these applications, the harmonic balancer can be brought in to where you're heating the sleeve. Have it set and ready to go. That will help so the sleeve has a minimal amount of time to cool. Just don't muss up the wife's kitchen, as she'll probably get pissed at you :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T02:30:28.773" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T02:30:28.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12831" CreationDate="2015-07-25T00:25:49.087" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preignition occurs when a hot spot inside the combustion chamber ignites the fuel before the spark does. The exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR) dilutes the air/fuel mixture slightly to lower combustion temperatures when the engine is under load. This reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen and also helps prevent detonation. So, I would check the operation of the EGR valve and system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T00:25:49.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T02:06:30.223" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tested the battery and it is okay. The issue is that when I turn the key I get no electrical response. We used the car last Thanksgiving. Does the car shut down something else when it is idle for so long? What should I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11488" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T00:03:49.503" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:28:33.020" Title="Starting a Lexus that has been sitting and has a good battery" Tags="|starting|car|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:56:50.163" Score="0" ViewCount="3274" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Mazda 323 Astina, 1.8l, I am trying to figure where the engine temperature sensor is located in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if it's faulty? I am only guessing it is because the car overheats, the coolant boils when I drive and radiator fan won't turn on but the A/C fan works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11454" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T15:14:55.847" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:40:08.647" Title="Where is the engine temperature sensor located on a Mazda 323?" Tags="|mazda|coolant|o2-sensor|temperature|astina-323|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T05:43:56.960" Score="1" ViewCount="2843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5.3 Liter engine from a 2007 Chevy Avalanche LTZ. I removed it and swapped in a 6.0 for a customer. What is the name given to this V8? It has an aluminum block and cast 243 heads. I need to know so I can reference it in order to find out which ECM/PCM and wiring harness I need to get for it. Also, to find out whether or not the six speed T56 manual transmission (removed) from a 1994 Z28 Camaro will be compatible when paired up to this engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T17:09:18.483" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T21:40:22.533" Title="what engine came in 2007 chevrolet avalanche LTZ?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|avalanche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18823" CreationDate="2015-07-25T05:51:13.470" Score="7" ViewCount="4328" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer - 4.3 L Vortec V6 (vin W with PCM)&lt;/strong&gt; - 230,000 miles original owner.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD-I (or 1.5) GM transitional year with OBD-II style connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been working on my vehicle a lot lately.  Mostly chasing down a rough idle (rich condition) that ended up being a bad distributor assembly and retarded timing.  &lt;em&gt;(Edit: or so I thought; performance improved, but the root cause was something else entirely)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is running pretty good now, but what was an occasional run-on (&quot;dieseling&quot;) is now happening all the time.  Just within the last few days it went from run-on only after driving for extended periods or very hot... to dieseling nearly every time I shut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;run-on&quot; or &quot;dieseling&quot;, I mean that the car sputters for a second or two after turning off the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is what's been worked on, replaced, or checked in last six weeks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagnostic Trouble Codes&lt;/strong&gt; - No current or pending codes.  Everything seems to be running normal as per live scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Timing&lt;/strong&gt; - Disconnected &quot;timing wire&quot; from PCM and timing was 10 degrees retarded.  Adjusted timing to 0 TDC as per GM spec and reconnected timing wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distributor Assembly&lt;/strong&gt; - Replaced entire distributor assembly due to bad bearings.  This ended up being &lt;s&gt;the fix for the rough idle condition and&lt;/s&gt; the likely cause of the retarded timing.  Again, set timing to 0 TDC as per GM spec.  &lt;em&gt;(Edit: although this was a real issue, it was not the root problem)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ICM (Ignition Control Module)&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;s&gt;removed and tested good at AutoZone.&lt;/s&gt;  Brand new as part of new distributor assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pickup Coil&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;s&gt;tested good. Putting out 1.0 VAC when cranking. Reading 800 Ohms across and infinity to ground.&lt;/s&gt;  Brand new as part of new distributor assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distributor Cap &amp;amp; Rotor&lt;/strong&gt; - Brand new as part of new distributor assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing Chain&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18388/11163&quot;&gt;Inspected timing chain slop and only found 3.5 degrees of play&lt;/a&gt; where 3 to 5 degrees is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vacuum Leaks&lt;/strong&gt; - I've visually inspected all vac lines/hoses and sprayed a little carb cleaner looking for leaks. Could not find any leaks, but changed some really old looking hoses anyway.  At idle, vacuum initially reads 17 psi, and after the engine warms up, it drops 1-2 psi and holds steady at 15-16 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Filter&lt;/strong&gt; - changed 1 year ago (5000 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Delivery&lt;/strong&gt; - No leaks. Pumping and holding specified pressure (58 psi) and passed all leak-down tests as per GM manual. CMFI &quot;spider&quot; assembly was changed sometime within last several years as was the fuel pump. The fuel filter was changed only 5000 miles ago.  &lt;strong&gt;(See Edit #3 below)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark plugs&lt;/strong&gt; - Brand new stock AC/Delco plugs properly gapped to 0.045&quot; as per manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wires&lt;/strong&gt; - Replaced with Bosch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition Coil&lt;/strong&gt; - Tested bad and replaced with an MSD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)&lt;/strong&gt; - inspected and tested good. Intake manifold port is also not clogged as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/egr-valve-tests-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this procedure&lt;/a&gt;.  EGR is also protected by screen style gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)&lt;/strong&gt; - inspected and tested good as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/tp-sensor-tests-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this procedure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MAP (Manifold Air Pressure)&lt;/strong&gt; - inspected and tested good as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this procedure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IAC (Idle Air Control)&lt;/strong&gt; - visually inspected and wiped off black grime but could not find a test to perform.  &lt;em&gt;edit: changed the IAC Valve since posting&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IAT (Intake Air Temperature)&lt;/strong&gt; - could not find a specific test, but resistance reading goes up as temperature goes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MAF (Mass Air Flow)&lt;/strong&gt; - this model year/engine does not have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PCV Valve&lt;/strong&gt; - inspected and working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust Restrictions&lt;/strong&gt; - exhaust system is clear from front to back.  All new gaskets and a new muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oxygen Sensor&lt;/strong&gt; - Not working properly as per live scan tool and replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knock Sensor&lt;/strong&gt; - Passenger side tested bad as per resistance testing and replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling System&lt;/strong&gt; - Replaced radiator, hoses and thermostat.  Radiator was leaking and thermostat was too slow to open or sticking closed.  Cooling system is now properly regulating temperature as per stock thermostat.  I previously noticed more run-on only when engine was hotter, but in recent days, it does not matter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression Testing&lt;/strong&gt; - I'm not sure these readings are valid because I later found out my testing methodology was flawed.  The engine was cold and I neglected to block open the throttle.  ~165 psi on #1, #2, #3, #4; ~135 psi on #5; ~185 psi on #6.  Not great readings, but there's not anything I'm willing to do about it.  Not sure if bad/uneven compression could explain anything other than a misfire or rough idle.  &lt;em&gt;(I also squirted oil in #5 and re-tested.  Pressure went way up indicating a ring issue as opposed to valves)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evaporator Canister Purge System&lt;/strong&gt; - The GM service manual points to this as the typical cause of &quot;dieseling&quot;.  However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18709/11163&quot;&gt;I disconnected the line from the canister to the engine&lt;/a&gt; and the run-on (&quot;dieseling&quot;) problem continued.  Since disconnecting had no effect, I hooked it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although everything above was worked on within the last six weeks, I've done nothing at all in the last two weeks or so... yet suddenly only in the last few days, it went from almost never dieseling to dieseling all the time.  In other words, although I've worked on a lot of items, nothing was done just prior to this problem getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's left?  Carbon build-up in the engine?  It ran very rich for a long time thanks to the bad distributor, but the carbon &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be clearing itself out... and the run-on &lt;em&gt;should not&lt;/em&gt; be getting worse, but it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; (July 2015):  One of my theories is cylinder #6 with the highest compression is the root cause.  Cylinder #6 had a spark plug with a broken insulator at the tip that I believe happened sometime last year.  Combine the poor spark with the retarded timing (running rich) for several months and #6 is likely extremely dirty.  From my online research, I've read that thick carbon build-up cracks apart and the edges glow red hot, which can cause dieseling.  Perhaps now that the engine is timed and running closer to spec, the carbon deposits are breaking apart which creates even more cracks with edges that glow red.  It will just take time to clear itself out.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt; (October 2015):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining roughness in the idle was finally tracked down to a loose heat shield that was intermittently shorting out the spark plug boot for cylinder #4.  No doubt the excess fuel in #4 was contributing to the run-on issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also took 3,500 miles of highway driving and some internal steam cleaning, but it's finally running smooth without any run-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3&lt;/strong&gt; (May 2017):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't long after my last edit that the overall roughness came back with a vengeance.  White exhaust smelled of gas and I was completely out of ideas... again, the leak-down test kept hold at 60 psi with no drop whatsoever.  Fuel mileage suffered and back-firing ensued.  Many months of frustration passed and I didn't know what else to check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It suddenly got so bad I decided to check fuel pressure once again... FINALLY, the leak-down test is showing a massive drop in pressure, from 60 to 20 psi within seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a new &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a.co/hLnu7aA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spider&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (CMFI Fuel Injector Assembly) and &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a.co/c3bO61p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nut Assembly&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (Fuel Hose Kit), and here's what I found on first inspection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkzq1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkzq1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;intake plenum&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice all the liquid fuel accumulation on the driver's side in the rear.  Also notice the wetness near where the pressure side of the Nut connects to the Spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a pinhole where one of the fuel injector hoses wore a notch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bobxJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bobxJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nut- pressure side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up not installing the rebuilt Spider because it was defective (Rock Auto,  rebuilt by Auto-Line).  I reinstalled my old Spider, which was functional and holding fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to explain the last piece of the puzzle... why during all these many months of rough idle, dieseling, and backfiring, did it always &quot;pass&quot; any/all leak-down tests?  As you can see in the next photo, there was also a pinhole worn into the return line.  The return line is never part of a leak-down test because it's only used when the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouGEE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouGEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nut - return side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was only after a second pinhole wore into the pressure line that the leak-down test revealed a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to my GMC manual, I see no &quot;official&quot; procedure for testing fuel pressure while the engine is running.  I can look at pressure while the engine is running, but I could find no published specifications or tests.  FWIW, according to tech support at Auto-Line, pressure while running should maintain itself between 55-60 psi.  Since the return side simply dumps back to the tank, I'm not certain that testing pressure even while the engine is running would have revealed any information about leaks on this side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, despite the other real issues I found and fixed, the vast majority of my dieseling, rough idle, and back-firing was caused by internal fuel leaks all along... first on the return side and then later also on the pressure side.  Too bad the initial leaking started on the return line, where a standard leak-down test would never reveal this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT:  The fuel &quot;leak-down&quot; test will NEVER be able to reveal a leak on the gasoline &lt;em&gt;return&lt;/em&gt; line.  With everything else functioning properly, the return line can only exhibit its leak(s) while the engine is running.&lt;/strong&gt;  AFAIK, there is no test that can detect a leak on the return line, leaving only a visual inspection based on symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/how-to-check-regulated-fuel-pressure-pump-max-output-and-leak-down-709546/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click here for more detailed information about the leak-down test&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leak-down Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   &lt;strong&gt;With the exception of the return lines&lt;/strong&gt;, this will test the entire systems ability to hold fuel pressure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T19:19:36.537" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T19:19:36.537" Title="Engine run-on (dieseling) condition suddenly getting much worse" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|rough-idle|blazer|dieseling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18829" CreationDate="2015-07-25T10:38:57.373" Score="3" ViewCount="6231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall Vectra 1.6 (2007). The cooling system operated perfectly (a few kms after starting the engine the needle was pointing to optimum temperature without the slightest waver). 2 weeks ago I had to drive around 600 kms in an extremely hot weather (42 C), and a blinking light alerted me on the dashboard. I stopped for an hour, then slowly drove home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next morning I checked the coolant level, it was a bit low so I topped it off. Since then it keeps recurring if I drive during the hottest hours. The coolant level is constant, no problem with that. I can drive hours uphill with full load in the morning, but on the same route at 3 pm it overheats again. When it overheats, I stop for a few minutes, and it gets back to normal like a snap. Both going from normal to maximum temperature and then getting back to normal takes less than half a minute. It is unrealisticly quick. When it started acting up once, it will do it every few kms until I stop for hours. Next morning it is all fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attempted fix so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked with two services, none of them found anything. The closer one also refused to replace cheap parts (like thermostat, water pump) or to flush the radiator, because &quot;they do not think that this is the problem&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion on what could cause this odd behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to save the sanity of somebody as desparate as I was (reaching this page and not finding an answer) this was the &quot;solution&quot; in short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mechanic #3 (electric engineer): &quot;It is surely the ECU (the main computer). Needs to be replaced for an awful lot of money.&quot; - I did not believe him, went to another one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mechanic #4 (regular mechanic): &quot;It is the thermostat.&quot; - He fixed it, but strangely enough, the problem remained exactly the same...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mechanic #5 (Vauxhall service): two days of investigation, no result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mechanic #6 (kind of a hobbyist, with plenty of time): &quot;It is a blown head gasket. I am going to fix it quick'.&quot; - He &quot;fixed&quot; it, but strangely enough, the problem remained exactly the same...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it to Mechanic #7 (Independent Vauxhall-specialist garage): &quot;It is a system-wide problem. &lt;em&gt;Something&lt;/em&gt; caused the original problem, and that later put extra strain on every other part of the cooling system. You need a full investigation.&quot; - ... And they were right. They found the exhaust manifold cracked, leading to the blown head gasket (which was also not properly fixed earlier). Expansion tank was also cracked, lambda-sensor being burnt into its socket, and thermostat got killed again as well (so replaced it one more time).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I paid a lot and more importantly spent an awful lot of time (two months in total) on getting this fixed. My advice to anybody in a similar situation: find a good professional and have him to do a full check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11491" LastEditorUserId="11491" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T19:09:49.723" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T19:09:49.723" Title="1.6 Petrol engine overheats intermittently" Tags="|cooling-system|vauxhall|opel|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T12:32:55.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheerz,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased recently OBD2 scan tool(Autel MaxiScan MS300) which supports ISO9141. My car (Mitsubishi Lancer GLX 1.3 1999) seems like ODB2 compatible using ISO9141-2 protocol for communication (checked &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectronics/mitsubishi_obd2_daig_pinout.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). I plug the tool, it initialized, I turn the key to &quot;OK&quot; position (the one which is indicated in the manual), the tool goes through different protocols and at the end reports that it is unable to communicate with my car. I have searched for solution, some people told that it is possible to be that some of the fuses is burnt, I have checked today all the fuses, cleaned contacts, still without luck. Are there any other issues which might be causing the problem in communication of the tool and the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10926" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T21:49:32.150" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T21:49:32.150" Title="Unable to connect OBD2 scan tool" Tags="|obd-ii|mitsubishi|lancer|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18805" CreationDate="2015-07-25T17:02:18.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the heads are 243's and are stock on a 6.0L engine, you are looking at an LS2. The 243's also came on LS6 engines, but are 5.7L engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are actually wondering which engine came &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; of the Avalanche and it has 243 heads, you are looking at a 5.3L with some other than stock heads. They didn't install the 243 heads on the truck engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to source &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; truck wiring harness and it will mate up. If you are going to put a car accessory bracket up front, I suggest you get a wiring harness for an LS car (97-02 Camaro/Firebird). I don't think I'd try a GTO wiring harness, but it could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 94 T-56, it &lt;strong&gt;will not work behind the LS motor&lt;/strong&gt;. There are a bunch of differences besides just the bell housing. The clutch release (throw out bearing) is completely different (push instead of pull). I believe the input shaft is different as well. You need to find a T-56 out of an LS car (Camaro or GTO) for it to mate correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T17:08:24.603" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T17:08:24.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T18:14:56.823" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with my 2004 Volvo S80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mornings when I go to start my car, I get a message &lt;em&gt;skid service required&lt;/em&gt;. After I mess with it a little bit, the message goes away. I also get a message saying &lt;em&gt;Immbolizer see manual&lt;/em&gt;. I'm getting a lot of weird messages all of a sudden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told to change my battery to a high voltage. I have a 630 CCA battery but was told to get a 730 CCA. Could that be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11494" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T22:08:17.847" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T22:08:17.847" Title="Multiple dashboard messages on my 2004 Volvo S80" Tags="|battery|volvo|s80|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T21:40:00.843" Score="0" ViewCount="4068" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo XC90 runs well but periodically its A/C will shut off. I turn off the a/c for 30 seconds, then turn back on and seems to work well again. Could this be a compressor issue? Someone mentioned a low level of refrigerant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11495" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T21:47:25.460" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T05:52:14.580" Title="A/C shuts off periodically; switch off and back on and will work again" Tags="|ac|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T21:58:31.027" Score="2" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had an auto body shop replace rear quarter panel. Gas hose nozzle keeps getting stuck. Seems body shop cut off the top of the fuel pipe, then reinstalled by crimping tabs they somehow created to reconnect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weren't they suppose remove the fuel pipe, and re-install it with the new quarter panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I demand they install a new fuel pipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11496" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T23:31:44.117" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T01:11:59.490" Title="Fuel pipe on 2014 Accord" Tags="|honda|fuel-system|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18819" CreationDate="2015-07-25T22:32:23.830" Score="3" ViewCount="2559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the middle of replacing my 1998 Dodge Dakota 39. V6's timing set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;strong&gt;manual&lt;/strong&gt; and everywhere online, the camshaft sprocket dot should be at the bottom and the crankshaft sprocket dot should be at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the engine to line up the &lt;em&gt;existing sprockets&lt;/em&gt; in that configuration, the distributor is firing cylinder 4.  If I rotate to where the distributor is firing cylinder 1, then the dots don't line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Did the last guy turn my distributor shaft 180 or am I misunderstanding these alignments?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is something wonky the last guy did, should I &quot;fix&quot; it?  My truck has been running rough, but not terrible.  I have a bad cat so I assumed that was why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:40:24.550" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T22:40:24.550" Title="Timing Sprocket Marks Disagree with Distributor for TDC" Tags="|engine|timing|timing-set|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18833" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:11:37.693" Score="7" ViewCount="12254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I should get electric or hydraulic (where you put the fluid in) power steering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between the two in terms of how they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one more efficient at steering than the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is more reliable (in terms of repairs)? Stats would be nice ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the disadvantages and advantages of each one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T03:18:51.630" Title="What are the advantages of electric and hydraulic power steering?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18817" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:25:05.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @DaveWinslow was suggesting, I think you are misunderstanding things about ignition timing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The firing order on your Dakota 3.9 should be 1-6-5-4-3-2. The engine is a 4-stroke (or 4-cycle) engine (Suck; Squeeze; Bang; Blow). When cylinder #1 fires, the crank shaft has to go 720° (two rotations of the crank shaft) before it fires again. This means the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) &lt;em&gt;twice&lt;/em&gt; for every single time it fires. At the same time #1 is at TDC, &lt;em&gt;so is the #4 piston&lt;/em&gt;. When piston #1 is on its compression stroke (just at the time of firing), #4 is at the top of it's exhaust stroke. The opposite holds true as well. When #4 is firing, #1 is at the top of its exhaust stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your engine is not 180° out ... if you've described everything accurately, it's right where it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:25:05.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:31:22.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are having an issue with anything a body shop has done, take it back to them. Almost every major body shop (ones that do warranty repair) in the US gives a lifetime warranty on their work (they'll continue doing this if they want to keep getting the warranty work). I don't know if you live in the States, but if you do, they need to take care of it. Just tell them you are not happy with the work. If they give you a hard time, call the insurance company which paid for the work. You should not have to deal with second rate work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:31:22.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18813" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:37:21.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think a battery with a higher CCA is going to help, but a new battery in and of itself might help. I'd have it tested and see if it's voltage is where it needs to be. If the battery is worn out, you might be seeing the issues you are having. Putting a higher CCA battery will not do anything to improve your situation, unless the one which is in it is lower than it is supposed to be. Even then, a battery with a lower CCA if it's in good shape would not be causing these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:37:21.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18808" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:43:03.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check your return radiator hose. Sometimes when they get weak, they will collapse when they get hot, just like you are suggesting. When the strain is taken off of them, they will return to normal shape and be just fine and the engine will become cool again. The only way you will figure this out is when it starts acting up, stop immediately, raise the hood (bonnet) and observe the hose while you rev the engine. In most cars, the return hose is the bottom hose from the radiator. This may be hard to do by yourself. You may &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be able to do it if the car is drive-by-wire (no cable from your gas pedal to the throttle body). Someone will have to press on the gas while you observe (or visa-versa). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:43:03.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18806" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:58:33.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your idea you are having a major carbon buildup is a good theory. You can try and get rid of the carbon by doing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seafoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. You mentioned are in the process of running a bottle of Techron through it. While this will help if you are using it &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt;, it won't do much for a huge carbon buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I believe you have carbon buildup in more than one cylinder. If it were only one cylinder, there wouldn't be enough power to keep it dieseling on. You might get just one kick-over from the single cylinder, but that would be about the extent of it. The engine wouldn't get past the compression a second time. The Seafoam treatment should do the trick for &lt;em&gt;all of the cylinders&lt;/em&gt; though, so have no fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:58:33.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18803" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:28:33.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take the clamps off of the battery posts, clean them, then re-cinch them down. I would bet one or both of them has lost connectivity either through some light oxidation or whatever. If you aren't getting &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; connection and no power to any part of the car, there has to be an issue with getting power to those bits and pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:28:33.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6631" CreationDate="2015-07-26T05:33:47.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After days of research on this exact topic I think I have an answer to fix our problem.  To fix your problem I would first change the ignition coil and ignition control module.  Both are next to each other and are attached to a small metal bracket bolted to the top of the motor just to the passengers side of the air intake/ throttle body.&#xA;P.S. From the ECM comes a signal to ignite the spark plugs etc.  This signal first goes through the coil and ICM.  Then that signal is sent to the distributor cap through the short spark plug wire that basically powers the center pole of the cap.  This signal then flows down into the rotor cap which makes contact with each spark plug and gives it the electricity to ignite or spark.&#xA;P.S.S.  If changing the ICM and coil does not help you may need to buy a new ECM/CPU.  You can buy a new Electronic Control Module from an auto parts store but they can ONLY be checked by a dealership.  ALSO, if you do buy a new computer, the car will need to be towed to the dealership so they can install the operating system on to the ECM and make sure it is talking to the engine properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my story and why I was forced to research this problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, we have a 1996 Suburban Lt with a 5.7L engine.  We have had a few repairs but nothing this complicated before.  We are driving down the interstate and suddenly the truck dies.  We notice the ECM1 fuse is out, so I replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried to start it and nothing so I figured I replaced it for no reason and never checked it again until after we had the car towed home.  I could not hear the fuel pump and assumed we were not getting gas so we dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump and fuel relay, no change.  We then noticed there was no spark.  We started checking everything with a multimeter.  Everything seemed fine so we jumped to the conclusion the computer was bad.  We bought a new computer and again no change.  We then noticed the fuse again was out and changed it. The key was already in the on position because as I was putting the new fuse in it blew in my hand.  That is when we started looking a wires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a day and a half we found the wires that go to the crankshaft sensor were up against the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. It was barely touching, but when I tried to move the wires the protective covering was glued.  That is when I knew there was burnt wires.  We then cut enough of the wires in both directions even though only the pink wire was burned to a dark brown color.  This fixed the fuse from blowing.  The cable wires holder had come open and the wires had fallen out and were able to fall onto the exhaust manifold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice that we fixed the initial problem but still we were not getting spark to the engine.  We then replaced the crankshaft sensor, distributor cap and rotor cap, no change.  Last we paid to talk to a mechanic advisor online, he gave us a list of chores to do all day long checking stuff etc.  Last he heard we replaced the ECM or CPU. He asked if the Suburban towed to the dealer yet to reprogram the ECM.  We were like no but we changed the chip.  He kindly informed us the chip didn't do much and that we had to have it towed to the dealer in person because the operating system of the vehicle is proprietary to GMC.  So we had it towed to the nearest dealer and it was ready the next morning.  They said the camshaft sensor pulled up a code and so a couple hours after getting the truck back we replaced it too... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since, it has been driving better than when we first bought it in 2008.  The only problem we have had is some bad gas due to some dirt or something from syphoning the gas into 4 cat litter buckets and 2 5-gallon buckets.  I cleaned the containers out but who knows.  the gas sat in the garage for a couple of days until the day we had it towed to the dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope our mistakes and stupidity help others in the future.  Lesson I learned is to not replace the main ECM/CPU so frivously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastEditorUserId="11498" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T19:05:54.520" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:05:54.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18814" CreationDate="2015-07-26T05:52:14.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the air blow cold?  When refrigerant gets low air blows hot.  You can always buy a can of refrigerant with the installation nozzle, check the pressure and if low fill or if not return for refund.  This should help you start to diagnose your problem and check possibilities off the list.&#xA;From my experience the heater/ AC controller can go bad, swapping with a new controller deck in the dash fixes the problem.  Sometimes the AC fan overheats on import vehicles.  This causes the fan to shut off and the AC turns off as a result.  The fan will usually become louder as it gets closer to the end of its life.   Also the compressor will not kick on until there is enough pressure in the system as a safety feature to stop the compressor from failing due to lack of refrigerant or lubrication.  Even if the compressor kicks on but it blows hot, usually means low refrigerant level.  Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T05:52:14.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18808" CreationDate="2015-07-26T06:09:15.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;depending on the age of your vehicle the radiator will become corroded with orange/ red rust.  This will brake off and clog the thermostat causing intermitent or random overheating problems that quickly go away and come back.  Once the car has overheated a few times the thermostat can become damaged and not open until the water in hotter and hotter.  This spirals our of control due to a bad thermostat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I recommend to do a radiator flush and change the thermostat is it is starting to spiral  and only open at a hotter temp every time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you have flushed the radiator properly install new antifreeze mix with a radiator conditioner and sealant.  This will help your system greatly and keep your coolant system running strong for years to come.  Conditioner may take a few weeks to properly lubricate and seal up rusty spots etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Last, if you are losing coolant regularly check hoses for cracks and replace bad hoses.  If its the radiator try using conditioner/ sealant (follow direction on bottle) or replace radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:09:15.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18794" CreationDate="2015-07-26T06:21:11.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 are new enough they are switched to the new Ozone safe refrigerant that you can buy over the counter.  I personally buy a bottle of AC PRO with stop leak.  They seem to have the best chemical mix/ stop leak.  Then when I know its holding a charge, I buy the cheaper Frost refrigerant.  You are getting what you pay for refrigerant wise...&#xA;It also can take a couple of weeks at full pressure to rejuvenate the seals and get them to seal properly again.  I recommend to add better more expensive brand.&#xA;If all fails buy green die/ stop leak.  This is hard core stop a leak with neon green glow in the dark dye to help detect if one of the threaded connection is lose and needs tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:21:11.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18793" CreationDate="2015-07-26T06:24:35.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had to hold down the button for 10 seconds to get the oil timer to reset.  In the owners manual it should tell you how to work the computer and messages.  If this does not help call the dealership and ask how to reset the oil filter timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:24:35.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18818" CreationDate="2015-07-26T08:20:06.017" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the difference between the two in terms of how they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the power steering simply adds some force to the steering when it detects the driver is trying to turn the wheels. Simply, in one case there is an electric motor to add this force, while in the other hydraulic liquid is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is one more efficient at steering than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hydraulic pump is always in motion while the engine is on. Since any hydraulic system has some internal friction, this means the engine has to consume some power to turn it. The steering pump is permanently connected to the engine crankshaft through a belt and pulley, which also takes some power to keep turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, an electrical power assist will only draw power when it is actually being used (i.e. the driver is turning the steering). The electrical system also uses an existing source of power, the car alternator - that is already a required piece of equipment for the other needs of the vehicle. But, lacking the extra pulley and pump needed by a hydraulic steering system (and perhaps also an extra belt, depending on engine design), some energy savings are to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which one is more reliable (in terms of repairs)? Stats would be nice ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No stats ... perhaps because electrical power assist is still a relatively recent technology. Even so, since electric systems have less components and no hydraulic valves and gaskets (so no leaks!), in theory they should be more reliable than hydraulic. In practice, hydraulic power assist has been around for very many years, so it has the advantage of being a well-known, mature technology. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the disadvantages and advantages of each one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feeling of each system is slightly different from the driver's point of view. From an objective standpoint, perhaps the only statement that can be made is that hydraulic assistance dies instantly when the engine is turned off. Some electrical systems can be programmed to continue running from the battery, though this should be avoided for extended periods of time since the battery will drain. Electric systems can also be perceived to be slightly more reactive to driver input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a subjective standpoint, each driver could test different cars with each of these systems to find out which suits best his/her purposes and driving style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T14:32:08.907" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:32:08.907" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17624" CreationDate="2015-07-26T10:43:03.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problems like this are usually because of a loose ground wire somewhere. Intermittent electrical failures are amongst the hardest problems to diagnose. Without further information (like the make/model/year of the vehicle), it is really hard to help you diagnose this further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T10:43:03.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17631" CreationDate="2015-07-26T10:49:55.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My research shows that there isn't a coolant level sensor (though my research could be flawed) in the A4 1.6L vehicle. It just has a temperature sensor. While this could be your issue, you should change out this sensor since you've already purchased it anyway (it seems the part itself is not that expensive anyway). You'll also want to check to see if there are any air pockets in your coolant system. This, too, can cause issues with errant readings like you are suggesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T10:49:55.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2015-07-26T10:54:07.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, they did something wrong. It sounds as though there is a leaking gasket or the pan itself is leaking oil, which when low enough (oil), would cause an overheating issue. If the engine ran out of oil, this could cause your overheating issue, though you would have seen an oil light flash on first. I'm thinking the leaking you saw was not oil, but probably coolant. Loss of coolant (&lt;em&gt;obviously&lt;/em&gt;) would have caused an overheat issue as well. Still, it would seem (from your limited description) this would fall back on the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T10:54:07.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17589" CreationDate="2015-07-26T10:55:41.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things to look for here. First, it could be that there is a cut in the antenna wire somewhere, so that it is shorting (both sides of the wire coming in contact with each other). Second, it may not be plugged in all the way to the back of the head unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T10:55:41.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17539" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:00:55.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go out on a limb here. All misfires are occurring on the same side of the engine. I'm wondering if there is an intermittent ground fault to the coils on that side. It would be extremely hard to diagnose, but it would explain the issue. This would only be true if all of the coils on that side shared the same ground and the three on the other side do not. You might be able to get this figured out by running a separate ground from that side, but again, it would be hard to diagnose. I'd suggest your sudden slow down is due to the loss of these three cylinders at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:00:55.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17487" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:10:28.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears you can get the rebuild kit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/1/categories/volvo-v70-automatic-transmission-rebuild-kits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this&lt;/a&gt;. Something like that may be available in Europe/UK. It says the kit contains: complete gasket set, friction set, sealing rings, and metal clad seals. The friction set should make up the plateaux &amp;amp; disques, I would bet. You'd need the gasket set, obviously. The sealing rings and metal clad seals are obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:10:28.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17483" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:14:59.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be two main posts on your starter solenoid which have wires attached to them. The main one getting power from the battery. The other is the energizer from the ignition switch. Test the starter by jumping these two posts with a screwdriver (briefly), to see if the engine will turn over. If this works, this is likely a problem with the ignition switch or starting mechanism controlled by the ignition switch. Ensure you are only touching the two posts with the screwdriver or sparks will ensue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:14:59.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17478" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:22:08.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the AC compressor isn't kicking on, the pressure inside of your AC system is equalized throughout the system. This would allow for your gauge to appear in the &quot;red zone&quot; even though the compressor hasn't kicked in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is, your system pressure has fallen just below the threshold where the compressor will kick in. You can try and jump the system manual at the pressure sensor with the gauge still on the low side and see where pressure goes to. Run it this way just long enough to detect what the pressure is in the system. If this shows you still have good pressure, your pressure switch is probably bad. If this is the case, you'd need to take it to a shop where they can evacuate the system of refrigerant, replace the switch, and refill to the proper levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:22:08.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18859" CreationDate="2015-07-26T15:38:19.193" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila 1.2 does has an old mechanism where you pull out one of the heater controls and the heated rear window comes on, and it does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; automatically turn off (by design)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I damage the elements if I leave them on for an extended period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T03:09:20.057" Title="Will I damage my heated rear windscreen if I leave it on?" Tags="|hvac|heater|window|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18854" CreationDate="2015-07-26T16:19:42.757" Score="0" ViewCount="2086" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my front passenger door window stopped working. Is there anything I can try at home to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11493" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T18:46:42.113" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T05:44:23.497" Title="Volkswagen Jetta 2006 front right door window stopped working" Tags="|vw|power-windows|door|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18855" CreationDate="2015-07-26T16:31:50.160" Score="0" ViewCount="2257" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back right door of my Honda Accord got stuck and will not open. The door is stuck in locked and will not unlock. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11493" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:05:54.827" Title="Honda Accord 2006 back right door lock got stuck" Tags="|honda|locks|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18669" CreationDate="2015-07-26T18:12:59.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following answer to my question after digging more on YouTube, thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jpcycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;J&amp;amp;P Cycles&lt;/a&gt; and this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4p_vjd0GtCk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/4p_vjd0GtCk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clutch adjustment must be done with the bike upright or the primary lubricant will spill&lt;/strong&gt; out of the derby cover.  According to the video, this applies to all late model &quot;big-twin&quot; bikes back to the EVO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it isn't required while adjusting the clutch, one can change the primary lubricant anyway (since the case is open) - especially if you are adjusting the clutch because of clutch wear (there will be more debris in the oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From owner's manual to the majority of tutorial videos, &lt;strong&gt;most sources recommend changing the derby seal at this time as well&lt;/strong&gt;.  My Harley Dealership sold a package of common o-rings and seals which included one for the derby cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11435" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T18:12:59.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15634" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:10:59.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be one of several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swaybar links broken or missing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn out strut/shock mount (on either end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn out suspension parts ... anywhere the suspension has a bushing which meets the car itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without being there in person, it's hard to tell beyond that what it might be. I mean, it could also be a loose spare in the trunk area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:10:59.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15630" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:12:40.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What they person at the tire store said is completely plausible. To make sure, I'd take the car to a different mechanic and ask the same question. Also, have them show you exactly &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; the tread is breaking loose so you know for sure and they aren't just pulling your leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:12:40.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15610" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:15:04.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to inspect the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serpentine belt (actually, change it if you haven't done so already)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensioner pulley - While the tensioner may appear as though it's good, it may not be giving the belt enough tension so it has traction on the accessories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the two is going to be your issue. There is the outside chance you received a bad alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:15:04.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15605" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:20:32.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use rockauto.com extensively, as they seem to have all the parts and numbers to go with them. If it were a GM product, I'd use gmpartsdirect.com as they have a great database as well. I don't know if there is anything like that for Mazda parts (or Ford parts for the crossover of that). I'll see if I can find something when I get home this evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking on that site, if you look for Motocraft parts (for you Mazda), it should have the original part numbers for you. Also, on RockAuto, there will often be a &quot;info&quot; button just to the right of the part number. When you click that, there will usually be an OEM part number listed in there if they have one. I've seen it on about 75% of the products they stock. The OEM number may not be on &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; part within a category, but it will usually be on &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:20:32.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15558" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:21:55.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there are some serious modifications to your Jimmy, it doesn't have a carb. I would suggest you have a fuel injector which is stuck open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:21:55.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18887" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:40:27.257" Score="3" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to repaint my 2001 Lexus ES300. If I were to buy or rent an air compressor, what kind of specifications do I need for it? I.e. the minimum CFM, HP, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10717" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T03:29:22.250" Title="What kind of air compressor do I need for a proper auto body point job?" Tags="|paint|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18844" CreationDate="2015-07-26T21:21:25.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, when you hit the switch, you hear nothing (no binding noises from the motor), then it probably is your motor at fault. You'll need to open the inside door panel and check the leads for power. If you get power through the leads (leads being the plug at the window motor), then it's probably your motor at fault. You can check your motor by applying power directly to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T01:22:22.233" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T01:22:22.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18845" CreationDate="2015-07-26T21:33:53.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stupid question: Did someone turn on the child safety latch and you've only tried to open the door from the inside? Outside chance, but I thought I'd mention it. Obviously, if the door is unlocked you can still unlatch it from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be either one of two things: the rod which goes from the lock solenoid to the locking mechanism is broke (or detached); or, the rod which goes from the handle to the latching mechanism is broke (or detached). I would think it probably has to do with the lock rather than the latch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to see if while someone is hitting the unlock switch if you pull on the door handle it may decide to work. If that doesn't work, your only alternative is to take the inside door panel off of the door. I know that would be a pain if it is closed, but it is about your only alternative. You should be able to remove the bottom of the back seat to gain you more access room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T21:33:53.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18857" CreationDate="2015-07-26T22:19:40.637" Score="7" ViewCount="41224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asking this for a friend. Their mechanic says the fuel tank ventilation valve is broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the fuel tank ventilation valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it an important part? If yes, Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In general, could they replace it themselves? Would it be a difficult job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T22:27:13.790" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T18:47:26.597" Title="What is the Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18856" CreationDate="2015-07-26T22:25:26.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of rewriting this, I am stealing the following from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=160/mode=cat/cat160.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tank has to breathe. In order to breathe, your tank must have a vent somewhere that will relieve both vacuum and pressure. Gasoline expands in volume as it warms up and shrinks in volume as it cools down. The fuel level of your tank changes throughout the day, even if you are not driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot put fuel into your tank, unless you can get the air out...and you cannot withdraw fuel from your tank unless you can let air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up through the 1960's, most vehicles used vented gas caps.  This is simply a gas cap with a hole in it. Unfortunately, this hole would allow the fuel to splash out when accelerating or turning a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was basically brought about due to emissions. The fuel tank is a closed system on cars since 1996 (for the most part). The valve allows for the equalization of air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:25:26.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18856" CreationDate="2015-07-26T22:45:39.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EDIT: In general, could they replace it themselves? Would it be a difficult job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends a bit on what model the vehicle is. On some vehicles, the valve and the tube from the tank form a complete assembly that is easy to access. On others, the tank would need to be dropped to gain access to its top (where the valve tube is connected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If necessary, dropping a fuel tank is an involved process. You would need a vehicle hoist for the car, and a vertical jack to hold the tank while it is being lowered. Best practice would be to ensure the tank itself is empty or as near empty as possible, to reduce weight and associated risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rusted connections can also be an issue. Beside needing to actually unfasten the old valve tube, you would need to take care and make sure no old mud or bits of rust fall into the tank and pollute the fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the old separated ladder chassis found on some 4x4 grants easier access and perhaps can make tank removal avoidable. Modern unibody car construction makes things more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:45:39.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18843" CreationDate="2015-07-27T03:09:20.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlikely.  The window defrosters don't get hot enough to damage anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T03:09:20.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17588" CreationDate="2015-07-27T03:32:51.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, traded it in for a 2012 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country Touring L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had three estimates on the work, and the cost-benefit analysis demonstrated keeping the Volvo wasn't &quot;worth&quot; it. Considering the negative equity incurred by repairs, and that the car didn't meet my needs even with positive equity, it really was just time to let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T03:32:51.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18863" CreationDate="2015-07-27T03:38:49.263" Score="5" ViewCount="2928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to a 2012 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country Touring-L.  One feature on this minivan is what I'm calling &quot;auto wipers&quot;: the front wipers automatically engage when the windshield becomes unclear due to water, and the wipers' speed adjusts in response to how heavy the water is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this feature implemented, what are its failure modes, and how would I go about repairing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T14:04:08.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T14:04:08.970" Title="How do automatic wipers work and how can they fail?" Tags="|chrysler|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18906" CreationDate="2015-07-27T04:02:28.000" Score="5" ViewCount="4641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my valves out, cleaned and lapped them and put them back together. I also put new valve stem seals. At least on one side of my V6 Tacoma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I performed several water tests to check the seal of valves on seats after lapping them. Had to successfully redo two valves and am down to one last dripping water, will do that next. All the three leaking valves were on the exhaust side (not sure if that's a coincidence or correlation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did the test by setting the engine block mating surface up and level and then filled the recession in each combustion chamber with water. Leave it 30 min to see if any of the three puddles has lost water and look into the ports to see each valve from inside for drippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRUW2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this method in a YouTube video and was wondering how effective and authentic it is in verifying that the seal is tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:36:54.947" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T02:31:29.297" Title="Reliability of water test for valve seal" Tags="|engine|toyota|valve|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18861" CreationDate="2015-07-27T08:19:49.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does an Rain sensing wiper work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most modern cars have a device called a Optical Rain Sensor fitted onto the windscreen to detect rain and other obtrusive material. It simply works by firing an infra-red wave at an angle (45 degrees) from one side towards a receptor. When there is nothing on the wind shield the receptor picks up the infra red wave and nothing happens but when something like rain hits the windscreen, due to refraction the wave changes path and does not hit the sensor which detects the abnormality and activates the wipers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjFVh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjFVh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues might can occur in there places. Sensor, Processor, LED.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know , OEMs change the entire assembly and not the above components individually, Cheap ones might have separate fixtures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T10:55:39.627" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T10:55:39.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T08:20:21.217" Score="6" ViewCount="8060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a coolant leak coming out under my Mazda 3 2007. It is right in the center next to what looks like an overflow outlet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed a hole which looks like this, and coolant comes from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can the cause be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11508" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:44:59.840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T23:44:59.840" Title="What could this water leak be under my car?" Tags="|mazda|leak|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2015-07-27T09:16:05.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the switches mounted on the door itself? Assuming all the fuses are in order, the most likely suspect is the 'snake' that takes the wires between the door and the car itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you open and close the door, these wires have to flex, and can fatigue or break, or rub on the metalwork of the door and wear (although there should be a plastic harness or rubber grommet to stop that from happening). It's worth checking the condition of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T09:16:05.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2015-07-27T09:22:15.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the sensors were detecting the loose paint as an object very close. You should be able to re-paint them, but I don't know if they would need a special sort of paint - it might be worth checking with Ford&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T09:22:15.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2015-07-27T10:50:45.030" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;completely normal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T10:50:45.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-07-27T12:02:13.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Honda Civic EX Sedan.  The ECON mode, from my research and personal experience with my car, does the following: changes the shift pattern of the transmission to maximize mpg by limiting downshifts unless you &quot;floor it&quot;, reduces the A/C compressor operation and A/C fan to conserve mpg, changes the throttle response to maximize mpg and adjusts the cruise control so that when you &quot;resume&quot; speed it accelerates more leisurely instead of downshifting to quickly resume set speed - as far as I know, that's all it does.  On my car, it seems to make very little difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11510" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T12:02:13.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17989" CreationDate="2015-07-27T12:10:01.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to add one by adding a t-piece into the high-pressure line and adding a gauge to the T. I'd have hoped that someone would have made a ready-made one that wouldn't involve modifying the pump, but I can't find one, so I think you'd have to make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that basis, you'd need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a t-piece with the same internal diameter as your pump's air line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another bit of hose with the same internal diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a suitable gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002GV286/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=569136327&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=B0002GV3DA&amp;amp;pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=1T9GXM73WCM1ZHG3F2MJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Draper&lt;/a&gt; gauge with it's own flexible hose would provide both the latter two, so you'd just need a suitable t-piece (I'm not sure of the correct internal diameter, I'd guess 5 or 6 mm, but don't have anything to hand to measure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T12:10:01.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17607" CreationDate="2015-07-27T13:49:41.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked around, and here was one response from an car audio specialist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The future is the XM network, so basically the Sirius network is&#xA;  'as-is' and only providing limited hardware.  The SCC1 tuner is&#xA;  discontinued and it is required for the Sirius kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks like the ISNI572 kit should work with your Altima, provided&#xA;  it doesn't already have satellite radio, but also meets this criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1&gt; Radio must have a &quot;SAT&quot; button or have &quot;CH&quot;, &quot;CHANNEL&quot;, &quot;CAT&quot; or&#xA;  &quot;CATEGORY&quot; printed somewhere on the face of the radio to be&#xA;  compatible. This is usually located near the Tune or Seek buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you already have the SCC1 module for some reason, then you would&#xA;  just need the iSimple NI2 kit with the satellite radio cable and&#xA;  probably an antenna of some sort (or an adapter if it has a satellite&#xA;  radio antenna on the roof already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vehicles that don't meet the criteria above, or have navigation, are&#xA;  automatically excluded.  Many vehicles have the XM receiver module&#xA;  inside the in-dash radio now, instead of as a separate box, which&#xA;  makes many late model vehicles not capable of conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it looks like SiriusXM will let you combine different radio subscriptions on one account now (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://siriusbuzz.com/finally-sirius-xm-offers-cross-platform-multi-subscription-discounts.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;); even when one radio is Sirius and the other radio is XM.  I haven't actually tried this yet, but I will soon when I can no longer tolerate FM radio (very soon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T13:49:41.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18918" CreationDate="2015-07-27T14:25:10.793" Score="3" ViewCount="15468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have head of Ventilated Disc,Carbon Ceramic disc. I do not know what are the different types of disc brakes available on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one should I choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to know the advantages/disadvantages of each type possible with a image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T07:55:11.830" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T19:12:09.377" Title="What are the different types of disc brakes" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18804" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:40:08.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am only answering where the sensor is located.This video explains the whole procedure is nicely. Including the location and how to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2vXZbFjlxI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2vXZbFjlxI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:40:08.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18878" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:47:04.857" Score="9" ViewCount="52587" Body="&lt;p&gt;While rebuilding my valves, I noticed that 4 out of 6 exhaust valves on one side of the V6 engine were leaking after lapping and I had to relap them. I determined that by doing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18862/reliability-of-water-test-for-valve-seal&quot;&gt;water test&lt;/a&gt;. I am guessing they were leaking even before (IOW that the leaking wasn't a result of a poor lapping job) which sounds tenable because the exhaust ports looked like a mess before I cleaned them.  The fact that none of the intake valves leaked led me to a conclusion that exhaust valves take more heat so they are more likely to need readjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what are some effects of leaky exhaust valves?  E.g. I underwent the complete head gasket and valve rebuild procedure because my engine was overheating and the head gaskets got fried.  My speculation was that was because of a stuck thermostat that caused overheating.  But could it have been due to leaky exhaust valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T11:09:34.053" Title="Effects of leaky exhaust valves" Tags="|engine|exhaust|valve|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:39:02.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under normal use (non-performance type use), the valves, both intake and exhaust, should last the life of the engine. If and when they do leak, it will not take long for the valve to become a burnt valve. In your case, &lt;em&gt;I doubt they were leaking&lt;/em&gt; prior to pulling everything apart. If the exhaust valves had leaked, they would have been fried. If valves do not seat correctly, they will not transmit heat through the head as they are supposed to and will become very hot, thus causing the &quot;burnt valve&quot; syndrome. It wouldn't take the engine 5-years for this to occur, but rather months if not weeks for it to actually start causing you issues (if not less time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the exhaust valves were leaking, this would not have caused the overheating issue you were experiencing. Valves transmit heat into the heads through proper seating. If they aren't seating correctly, you'd have experienced less heat traveling into the heads through valve transfer. As well, you'd been seeing lower compression in the affected cylinders due to bleed off during the compression stroke (slight bleed off until a valve gets very burned, but bleed off none the less). Due to this loss of dynamic compression, you'd have not been seeing as good of power coming from that cylinder, as well as a reduction in heat. This reduction would not have been great, but it would still be less than optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During normal use, valves spin as they are used (not spin as in a top would spin, but they do rotate). This actions provides that they do not sit still, helps clean off of the seats and faces, which helps it to continue to seat throughout its lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think your exhaust valves leaked due to a poor lap job, but probably an &lt;em&gt;incomplete&lt;/em&gt; lap job after you mixed your valves up. I'm sure if they were put into the same holes they came out of, your valves would have had no issues what-so-ever. When you clean up your valves during the rebuild process, even though you may keep the valves in the same positions, lapping is not a bad idea to promote better sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:39:02.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:46:45.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lapping can be difficult, even the pros don't get it right the first time.  You fixed it right?  A lot of guys have to go and re=lap a vale or two.  As long as it is fixed now and is fine your did a GOOD job.  Live and Learn right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think your overheating problem was due to leaking exhaust manifold nor do I think exhaust valves are causing your overheating problem.  The car is overheating due to cooling system problems.  Usually the radiator gets rusty over time, this rust breaks off and gets clogged in the thermostat.  This causes the thermostat to overheat and fail.  The thermostat will only open at a higher temperature each time.  This is called spiraling and is a sign that the thermostat is failing.  Orange or red colored water is a sign of rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to do a cooling system flush/ radiator flush.  Follow instructions, sometimes a second application is needed.  Then I recommend to add a cooling/radiator conditioner sold close to the flush.  This is a chemical that does not need to be flushed and is safe to use with your antifreeze mix.  It will take a couple weeks to lubricate and condition all the rusty spots in the cooling system etc.  The condition usually says it stops leaks too, so if you have a seal starting to leak or a pin hole in the radiator from flushing it will seal it for you and extend the life of your vehicle many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If your valves are going bad it is usually due to warping caused by overheating.  You should have bought all new valves, you got lucky the intake valves were not warped as bad as the exhaust.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would assume the intakes did not warp because they are exposed to cool air from the intake etc while exhaust valves are only exposed to hot air escaping the cylinder.  This could be the reason they warped and not the intake valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastEditorUserId="11498" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T17:58:57.013" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:58:57.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18881" CreationDate="2015-07-27T18:03:20.110" Score="9" ViewCount="29818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the tires, if I pull off quickly and I wheel spin, do I cause any damage to the internals of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I don't mean reving it to 4k+ and then dumping the clutch, I mean speeding off from idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Opel Agila 1.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="11498" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T19:09:58.353" LastActivityDate="2017-10-26T10:48:27.290" Title="Does wheelspinning damage my car?" Tags="|wheels|drivetrain|opel|damage|agila|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2015-07-27T18:33:46.560" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is probably not, but you are creating undue hardship on the internals that will likely lead them to fail earlier than they would otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you drive your car, you are putting wear and tear on basically everything. Driving your car harder (accelerating quickly, stopping abruptly) just adds to the wear you are putting on it. Even just flooring the accelerator from idle puts a lot of strain on everything from the engine to the transmission to the axles (and potentially a differential for RWD and AWD vehicles). Your car is built to handle a lot of pressure and doing this once in a while is not going to cause major damage, but parts will eventually wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T18:33:46.560" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2015-07-27T18:52:43.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you are putting more wear and tear on your car if you drive like a race car driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason granny's old garage kept car retains the most value.  She drove it nice and so its has had an easy life.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Driving your car like your a cop on the other hand is like driving your car into the ground.  There is a reason cops get new cars every 5 years.  They don't know how to drive haha...   They ruin their cars and need more maintenance than the average car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T18:52:43.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18871" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:13:54.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article says it better than I can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/gds/Buying-Brake-Pads-/10000000009117929/g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/gds/Buying-Brake-Pads-/10000000009117929/g.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three types of brake pads, asbestos free organic, semi-metallic, and ceramic  They are a mixture of chemicals that is dense, but softer than the rotor.  This is to help lengthen the life of the rotor so the pad is worn away and not the steel wheel rotor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From what I know, Ceramic pads are supposed to last longer and make less of a grinding noise.  They are a little more expensive and you usually see them installed on luxury vehicles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another reason for ceramic over traditional is that they are supposed to wear more evenly and not cause as much damage to the wheel rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the extra money, ceramic is the way to go.  You get what you pay for there man. To play it safe, stick to the type specified by the manufacturer of your car, take the old pads in with you when buying the new ones to make sure they are the same!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastEditorUserId="11498" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T19:22:57.520" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:22:57.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:33:48.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To diagnose this I would back up your car and touch and smell the liquid.  Antifreeze is usually green and slimy and shines in sun light.  Water from condensation is usually colder if it just leaked out and well its water haha.&#xA;Fuel, smells like fuel and stains and concrete with a dark discoloration turning blackish in the sun and smells like gas/ diesel.  when fresh, gas usually has a slight blue coloring to it and smells strong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:33:48.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:34:06.153" Score="3" ViewCount="46939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with 201000 miles. At speeds above 60mph there is a heavy vibration from the front wheels.  It is gets worse when accelerating and will smooth out immediately upon lifting off the gas pedal.  I put new tires on it about 5,000 miles ago.  It's my wife's daily driver so I am not sure when the problem started.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the tire center where I purchased the tires to have them re-balanced. They checked and rebalanced them but said they were just barely off and not enough to be noticeable.  They inspected the suspension parts and motor mounts and found nothing wrong.  I went to a very trusted mechanic and had him check it out.  He was baffled after having it for three days and not finding anything significant. He checked the wheel spacers and found that they did have some build up behind them and corrected that.  He found that the front tires had become slightly out of round. He moved the front tires to the back which helped some because of the fronts now being out of round, but did not correct the problem. He also checked all the motor mounts, the drive axles and all suspension parts. He consulted with a mechanic at the Honda dealership who had no further ideas of what to check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is that it could be bad struts.  They are the originals and must be worn out by now. I'm thinking that while accelerating the torsion is sending vibrations down to the road through the tires and without properly operating struts those vibrations are not being dampened and causing the wheels to absorb the energy resulting in the tires bouncing.  Then as soon as I lift off the throttle that torsion stops and the tire bounce stops. As soon as I reapply throttle the vibrations begin again and the longer I keep pressure on the throttle the more violent the shaking becomes, yet it stops again as soon as I lift off the throttle. I'm not a mechanic but I do have a good amount of experience working on my own cars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if what I am thinking is even a possibility or what else it could be that we have not yet checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11516" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T09:20:11.603" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T18:24:02.873" Title="severe tire shake at highway speeds under acceleration" Tags="|honda|tires|suspension|wheels|odyssey|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18856" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:40:10.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve is essential to filling and draining fuel from the tank.&#xA;Replacing the fuel pump assembly where this valve is located is different on every type of car.  Do some research about how to replace the fuel pump assembly on your friends car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:40:10.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18852" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:55:54.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize for such a long answer.  Your question is not simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most higher quality coating for metal require a hardener, etc.  This makes things more complicated.  I would get someone more experience to do your paint job for you unless you plan to do a lot of painting in the future, then watch a lot of you tube videos or take some classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two type of paint spraying large amounts of coatings.&#xA;There is airless paint sprayer or air sprayed paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airless paint sprayers are basically the ones used to paint houses etc.  They atomize the paint into tiny particles to fill every tiny gap and crevice.  I would recommend using a small tip on the gun to get a nice slow flow of paint.  if the paint comes out to fast you can get runs droplets from low pressure that will ruin your paint job.  If you have never used a paint sprayer before I would practice on some other project before trying to paint metal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use the &quot;classic movie&quot; traditional body shop air compressed gun,  You will need a massive tank that costs $800+.  They need to be able to compress enough air to continuously work.  The tanks at the store usually tell who what they are rated for.  This method also requires you buy a special gun with a tank attacked to it where the paint is stored, it will come with a gravity fed reservoir (tank is above the gun) or a air displacing reservoir (tank is under the gun in front of trigger).  The guns usually require 30-40 PSI.  This needs to be continuous, if the pressure drops the guns does not atomize the coating like it should, causing larger (splatter) droplets to come out the tip which will ruin your paint job.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to sand the car, then prime the car, then paint the car, then seal the car, last you need to polish the car.  This is why paint jobs are so expensive.  Some paints come with primer built in and can be purchased at auto parts stores.  You will still need to spray a clear coat sealer and polish/ buff the car for hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of skills that need to be learned to get a higher quality paint job.  Also there is strict EPA regulations on capturing and filtering all the chemicals out to the air before being discharged to the exterior / public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I recommend you search on craigslist for a body/paint guy who has the experience and is looking for extra work.  They will usually do the same or similar quality work as a regular shop for a fraction of the price!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastEditorUserId="11498" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T20:02:43.727" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:02:43.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18901" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:05:11.440" Score="6" ViewCount="84470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that AC Delco encodes the month of manufacturing a car battery using &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; digits and encodes the year by &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; digit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery I just purchased, for example, is labeled P124R, which, IIUC, means that it was made in December 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm puzzled by this ambiguity regarding the decade of manufacture. How does a buyer rule out he's dealing with an exceptionally unscrupulous retailer who put on the market 10+ year-old stock? Just as importantly, how can a manufacturer of AC Delco's renown make the date this ambiguous? Is it, for instance, the case that a battery that has been sitting on a shelf for 11 years will be so unusable that it could not possibly be sold as a one year old battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T18:47:41.813" Title="Interpreting AC Delco's manufacturing date for car batteries" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18845" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:05:54.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you manually unlock the door by pulling the pole up or moving the lock switch over?&#xA;I know this is not an answer but without being there I need more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:05:54.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:15:20.217" Score="3" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car sits under a cover for an unfortunate amount of time. It's a 2007 and only has 39,000 miles, if that's any indication. It probably only receives love during the summer and sporadically throughout the year - it goes as long as 4 months without being touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I uncovered the car, there was this awful mold/mildew smell coming out of it. Now, I live in a forest on the Eastern Shore of MD, so that's not too unreasonable. My father &amp;amp; I have tried a few things so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a lot of pine needles / dirt / debris in the little nooks under both the trunk lid and the hood (think door jamb but for trunk, can't think of the name). We vacuumed this all out and this had the largest (positive) impact on the smell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabin air filter is whiter than my socks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tire compartment is as clean as the day we bought the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We've cleaned all over the (visible) interior of the car, but we haven't taken anything apart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad also noted that when he drove this car regularly, he always left the A/C on &quot;Max A/C&quot; which leaves the recirculate feature on. As I understand it, this could have let mold build-up in the A/C system. However, I usually drive without A/C, and if I haven't used the A/C all day (windows down) and come back the next morning, the car still smells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is limited to the interior and the trunk. It's definitely not too severe (it was plenty worse before we cleaned out all of the pine needles). My dad think's it's concentrated in the trunk. I don't agree (but thought to offer his opinion in case it leads to something else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what to look at next would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:35:23.150" Title="How to get mold smell out of car - 07 Ford Mustang GT" Tags="|ford|ac|mustang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:18:11.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you have a hole in your gas tank.  The fuel is pouring out and running along the frame of the vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel pump is not on (ignition is off) no electricity should make it to the fuel pump.  The pressure in the fuel lines would go away and the pump would stop any siphoning action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the shop tried to fix your tank and told you they replaced it.  Liars, take it back or ask for a refund so you can take it to another shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:18:11.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:36:11.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to push the door closed and pull the latch to see if that open it.  Sometimes if you over stuff the compartment it will close and be pushed so tightly against the door it cannot unlatch.  By pushing on the door you are relieving pressure and allowing the latch to open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:36:11.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:46:44.910" Score="2" ViewCount="5649" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem started a month ago.  My Aveo started revving and jerking when it was sitting at a light on my way home (2 blocks from my house) and the engine light came on.  I drove it home.  The next day I went to drive it to the mechanic and the engine would not turn over.  I had it towed to the shop.  They replaced the battery, terminals and the ignition coil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less than a month later, we are driving to the beach and the engine starts jerking a revving again and the CEL came back on.  We were in a place where we couldn't pull over, so my husband tried to drive it to a shopping plaza.  The car would not go over 35mph.  We had it towed back to the mechanic.  They replaced the ignition coil again (said it was faulty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less than a week later, it happened again.  The engine is jerking and revving and the car can not shift out of second.  This time the engine light is not on.  We got it back home (made it 5 miles from when we picked it up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I bother taking it back to the mechanic? or do I see if I can get the engine light to come on?  I have no clue of it is a third bad ignition coil or if there is another issue.  Without the engine codes, I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps can I take to diagnose this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11520" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T01:02:20.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T01:44:56.487" Title="Engine jerking and revving, multiple failed ignition coils" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|ignition|lights|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:47:26.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;AC Delco's website addresses this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I read the warranty date code on my battery?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warranty date code is located on the top label of the battery. The first character is&#xA;either a P or S. The next two digits determine the month, the third digit is year and the&#xA;fourth digit indicates the manufacturing plant. For example, P 094N means the battery&#xA;was made in September 2014.&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acdelco.com/content/dam/ACDelco/North-America/ACDelco/nscwebsite/en/Home/Auto_Repair/Battery_pdf/ACDelco-battery-warranty-information.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acdelco.com/content/dam/ACDelco/North-America/ACDelco/nscwebsite/en/Home/Auto_Repair/Battery_pdf/ACDelco-battery-warranty-information.pdf&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the answer below for more information about battery life. Either way, &lt;em&gt;the warranty period for your battery starts from the time of purchase.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T22:12:23.983" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:12:23.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18151" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:48:35.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try adding some high grade capacitors in between you battery and the starter.  This would reduce/ stop the main power surge you are experiencing.  Also the car was designed for a smaller batter assuming a standard stereo installation.  You are obviously running competition grade equipment and this would most likely require that you add a much larger truck battery that can take the surge.  If your battery is failing it will lose cranking amps causing you to notice the power being diverted to the starter more than before or normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To completely fix the power draw you could always add a motorcycle or boat battery next to the original battery to and connect them in parallel.  This would allow the extra energy produced by the alternator to trickle into the stereo's battery and keep it charged.  A deep cycle battery would allow you to play the stereo with the car turned off for longer periods of time without causing damage to the battery as it would on a conventional battery.&#xA;Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:48:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:56:43.803" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wipers are made from rubber.  The quality of the rubber and its ability to squeegee the water off the glass is what you are actually buying.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You get what you pay for.  Generic vs Bosch...  Obviously one is better and will last longer before ripping or crumbling apart.&#xA;Wipers come in whats called an assembly that attach to the windshield wiper pole that is attached to the motor.  Sometimes there is a set of gears in between the motor and the two wipers.  The wipers assembly are easy to install and come with instruction.  Just replacing the wiper blades is the same as just replacing the wiper blade assembly.  The wiper pole. motor, gears, etc do now have to be messed with to replace the windshield wiper blades.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most blades from what I know are all standardized no a days with a clip that has a level you push to remove the wiper blade assembly.  As I said in the store on the wiper blade package there is instructions.  There is also a book that has your cars make and model in it that will tell you what kind of wiper blades are compatible with your car.  Sometimes there is instruction in the front of that book as well. &#xA;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:56:43.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:57:42.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I see missing here is the fact that the PCV system does far more than just retain EPA compliance, the blow-by contains dozens of damaging compounds that must be removed as soon as they enter the crankcase by fresh air entering one bank, and the foul nasty vapors evacuated or &quot;sucked&quot; out the opposite bank while still in a gaseous state. If you do NOT constantly flush and evacuate these completely, then this water, sulfuric acid, un burnt fuel, abrasive soot and carbon particles are left to settle in the crankcase and cause sludge and greatly increased wear to the internal parts. The functions of a properly designed PCV system are many, and the emission portion is only one.  Your engines would not last more than say 50-70 k miles like the old days (of course oil is far better formulated now) when these damaging compounds were left and only a draft tube was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11522" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T20:57:42.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2015-07-27T21:15:07.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For anyone who has similar issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue however I don't think it was exactly same. I tried the steps in the accepted answer with no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research on my own&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried different phones and noticed that some would have the static at low volumes and other would not. I looked online and sometimes the phone can cause this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How I solved the issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking to the guys at an auto/stereo they mentioned that a there is a product called a &lt;strong&gt;Ground Loop Isolator&lt;/strong&gt; (3.5mm) that could reduce the noise. I found and ordered one up, so far it has &lt;em&gt;considerably&lt;/em&gt; reduced the static noise (when using the phone at low volumes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps others like it helped myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I paid ~30$ CAD (25 USD) for the isolator but later found them online for less than half the price. I bought the one online and it worked just as well as the expensive one.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update: On second read-through I see that I missed the attached document on the answer and it does mention Isolators, my apologies.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10771" LastEditorUserId="10771" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T21:46:01.700" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T21:46:01.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2015-07-27T21:16:55.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a video that shows the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0G2_Q1j4MzE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0G2_Q1j4MzE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SonsC1u_6M0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SonsC1u_6M0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a Mercedes that had a problem of mold growing on the leather.  We had to get a anti mildew leather cleaner and take it to the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:16:55.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2015-07-27T21:26:23.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Much of your &lt;em&gt;question&lt;/em&gt; seems to be a rant, so I will answer the last part, which seems to have gone unanswered to this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/elevating_self_discharge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battery University&lt;/a&gt;, a typical lead acid battery will lose about 5% of its charge every month (whether this means 5% of of the total charge when completely full - ie: 5%, 10%, 15%, etc, or 5% of the &lt;em&gt;remaining&lt;/em&gt; charge - ie: 5% of 100%, 5% of 95%, 5% of 90.25%, etc, is unclear). This means if a battery sits on the shelf too long, it will need recharged after a period of time to be fully operable in a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is for a battery which is stored wet (with acid in the cells). A &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; battery (one without an electrolyte) will maintain on the shelf indefinitely. Once the electrolyte is placed in the cells, the process begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another factor which will make a battery go bad. According to the same website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With usage and age, however, the flooded lead acid builds up sludge in the sediment trap, which causes a soft short when this semi-conductive substance reaches the plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can cause issues when the battery gets old. I assume it happens at a slower rate while on the shelf, but will still happen over time as it becomes aged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is, a battery with acid in the cells can only sit on the shelf for so long before it must be recycled or it will not work right. Have no fear, though, lead from batteries is one of &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most recycled things we humans pull out of the ground. A battery which has sat on the shelf for too long, while it may not provide you good usage, will still be able to be exchanged for a new one under the normal battery warranty programs. I'm sure batteries are sold beyond their expiration dates, but they are also easily replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:26:23.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18885" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:16:27.103" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem may be the torque converter in the transmission. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classactionsnews.com/consumer/honda-defective-torque-converter-class-action-lawsuit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on Class Actions News, there was a lady who had a similar issue on their 2005 Odyssey which they brought class action lawsuit against Honda for this problem. There was a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) which was issued for 2007, 2008, and some 2009 Odysseys (but not the 2005). What Honda said to do in those cases was for a software update. I believe you are experiencing the same issue as the other 2005 Odyssey owner. It could just be your torque converter is worn out. The main reason I am suggesting this is because &lt;em&gt;the problem goes away when you take your foot off of the gas pedal&lt;/em&gt;. If it were a problem with the tires or suspension, it would continue to be there even when you take your foot off the gas. It would be speed dependent, not throttle dependent. If it is trying to go into lock-up mode and cannot (which would only happen at highway speeds), the torque converter could be having vibration issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you take your vehicle to a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; transmission shop and have them diagnose the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:16:27.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:27:32.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, the harder you accelerate or decelerate(brake), the more you put stress on the different parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most stressed parts when accelerating, in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearbox gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fly bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piston rings&#xA;etc&#xA;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most stressed parts when braking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forks and the rubber buffers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11526" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:27:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:34:33.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is already answered, but it is worth noting that a distinct stereo whine that changes pitch with engine speed can be indicative of an issue with the alternator and/or voltage regulator. The noise sounds like supercharger whine in such cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:34:33.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18885" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:59:08.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cannot feel the vibration in the steering wheel it is unlikely that the problem will be related to wheel balance or alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms described sound awfully similar to what I recently experienced with my Touareg after it came back from a two-week dealership visit; I could feel severe vibrations over a range of speeds (and in reverse) on part-throttle only . The issue was not present when my foot was off the pedal, nor under high loads (full throttle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue went away after several spirited full-throttle runs, which tells me that a partially clogged fuel injector was to blame. It may be worth investigating whether all cylinders are receiving air, fuel and spark as expected if the issue is not wheel-related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T07:25:05.497" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T07:25:05.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18862" CreationDate="2015-07-27T23:06:59.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it should work pretty well. I don't have any evidence to back up that statement, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another method you may want to try to confirm, though. All you need is a magic marker (or Sharpie)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the valve out of the guide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the marker and mark the seat face (the angled part where the valve seats at) all the way around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the valve back into the guide so it is set upon the seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While applying firm pressure against the valve face, rotate the valve about 15° &lt;em&gt;at the most&lt;/em&gt;; rotate it back and for a couple of times, but no further than 15° total&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the valve back out and check the marker on the seat. If it is ringed all the way around, your seal should be good. If not, lap it some more. If it doesn't come out after a couple times of lapping, you'll need to get a valve job done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T23:06:59.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18196" CreationDate="2015-07-28T01:36:25.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have two completely separate issues here (brakes &amp;amp; starting). Since the engine is turning over, the starter is not bad. If there was a vacuum leak causing unmetered air to enter the engine, it would be running differently. It could just be that your MAF or other intake located sensors need cleaning for the starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your brakes, it would seem that your vacuum assist canister is not getting the vacuum it needs to help with the brakes. I'd check to ensure the valve for the vacuum line has not been damaged or is at least in good repair. If that isn't it, you could have a leak in the bellows which does the assisting within the canister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T01:36:25.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T03:09:47.970" Score="5" ViewCount="5404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 stick shift Toyota Camry. Sometimes when I am at a red light or stop sign and the car is in neutral I feel a slight vibration from the pedals and a slight grinding noise coming from the engine. This only happens on occasion and only when the car is idle (at neutral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause for this of this vibration/noise? Is it the transmission or the engine? Where can I look to further investigate the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the mechanic to look at the transmission oil - he said it's fine. When I took off he told me &quot;you don't know how to drive stick, that's why you're hearing noises&quot;. It seems that I may be giving too much gas when starting off. Could that be a cause for concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10150" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:29:08.780" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:29:08.780" Title="Minor grinding noise and vibration when car is idle" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|manual-transmission|vibration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18939" CreationDate="2015-07-28T05:24:04.477" Score="2" ViewCount="2488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Alpine CDE-9841 stereo and now I'd like to upgrade to a unit with an auxiliary port. I was wondering if I could leave the receiver in place and just purchase a new faceplate. I can't find any information on the compatibility of different faceplates with the same receiver. It seems like there might be a standard port connecting the faceplates, based on my minimal experience with two different stereos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11532" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:32:13.413" Title="Replacing the Faceplate on an after-factory Alpine stereo" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3476" CreationDate="2015-07-28T06:00:03.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern ECU units and transmission computers store an increasing amount of persistent data between starts, which was virtually nonexistent in the 1970's and early 1980's. Usually this can be cleared by disconnecting the battery for an extended period, which is necessary in some rare instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the engine computer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;recent and long term fuel characteristics:&lt;/strong&gt; Every time you refuel, there are slight variances, such as additives or lack thereof, ethanol percentage (which requires longer duty cycles), octane, etc. and is typically refined through the use of oxygen sensors which have made great strides in accuracy improvements with wideband technology.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;timing vs. knock parameters:&lt;/strong&gt; if you fuel your modern premium-only car with regular octane fuel, the car will not blindly predetonate until it breaks, it will 'learn' to pull timing based on inputs from the knock sensor, and occasionally push forward until some knock is discovered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;various sensor trims:&lt;/strong&gt; many sensors vary from the factory and over time, and the ECU will sometimes 'trim' them into expected ranges, such as the throttle position sensor (TPS), O2 sensors, fuel level sensor, and many others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the transmission computer (automatics only):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;shift points:&lt;/strong&gt; as various issues affect the engine power output, including sensor trims and driving style, some parameters are stored to assist in shifting at ideal conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't drive or service or care about automatic transmissions, so there are perhaps others?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, as storage and computation power increase and also continue on a trend of decreasing price, and we now have self-driving vehicles and witlessly controlled vehicles, I expect that more and more parameters will be stored and utilized to optimize the driving experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The self-driving is hardly yet what I would call 'AI', but this along with the rest of the learned parameters are veritably non-mythical and every OBDII vehicle (1994+) is performing at least the fuel characteristics and timing calculations based on persistent data storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T06:00:03.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2015-07-28T06:26:00.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attempting to produce wheelspin may also result in a burnt-out clutch if the tyres have more grip than expected - your clutch will slip and burn instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T06:26:00.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8524" CreationDate="2015-07-28T06:41:30.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a Hyundai Getz, if you want to disable the alarm so that you can use either the fob or the key to lock/unlock the car, you can bypass the hood switch so that the alarm circuit thinks the hood is open, and it will not go into the Arm state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is equivalent to just locking the car with the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hood switch connects to ground when the hood is open, so you just have connect the single switch wire to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also fit a switch so that you can select whether you want the alarm active or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11535" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T06:41:30.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2015-07-28T08:00:37.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wheels are spinning, then don't worry. From the engine and transmission's perspective there's no difference between the wheels spinning or turning normally. The problem comes in when the wheels don't spin and you feel a dull thud instead. That means you're shocking your transmission, which will damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tuners increase the performance of your car, they will always turn down or fool the traction control (if your car has it) so that the wheels spin easier. This is in an attempt to minimise the increased stress on the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, your car has a Getrag transmission. Those are some pretty solid transmissions that can handle much more than they're rated for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T08:00:37.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18871" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:18:56.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different types of discs are designed to either improve the performance, or improve the heat dissipation (preventing 'brake fade' which can occur if they get too hot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plain solid discs - these are the most basic, as fitted to ordinary cars, they just have a solid block of steel. Perfectly functional for the vast majority of users.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vented discs - these are in two layers, with vent spaces between them. This increases the surface area and airflow, allowing more heat to be dissipated, but needs more space as they are thicker than solid discs, and are heavier as they have more metal in them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;drilled/grooved discs - these have holes drilled through the disc, or grooves milled into the surface, with the intention of increasing the friction between the pads and discs (as they bite the edges) and again increasing the surface area and airflow. They do however weaken the disc, and their usefulness is questionable on a normal road car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;carbon ceramic discs - these are much lighter than steel discs, allowing bigger brakes with more stopping power and heat capacity, with less unsprung mass. They have different heat characteristics to steel discs however, and so need special pads. They're also very expensive!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a normal road car, plain discs are fine. For a higher performance road car, or light track car, you'd probably be looking at vented discs on the front, standard on the back. Top end road cars, track cars and racing cars will use carbon brakes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:18:56.740" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18922" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:20:17.963" Score="11" ViewCount="7798" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fuel pressure regulator needs replacing, however the original part from the manufacturer is outrageously expensive. While looking for less financially painful alternatives I've seen much cheaper universal units or similar units made for other cars (shape and fuel pipe diameters are the same), however the maintained pressure is a little different. The stock one is rated for an odd 3.09 bar, while the closest ones available are usually 3 bar or 3.5 bar. Is it absolutely critical to get exactly 3.09 bar, or the car will be fine with 3 bar? Maybe it is preferred to go for more, if not exactly 3.09? Doesn't the stock unit have some kind of an error anyways (+- 0.1 bar, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1999 Volvo V40 1.9 Turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T11:10:28.260" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T20:15:48.347" Title="How critical is it to match the stock fuel pressure regulator pressure when replacing it?" Tags="|fuel-system|pressure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18871" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:26:49.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Types&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drilled - commonly seen on motorcycles, the holes assist in cooling, weight reduction and allows water to be moved from the braking surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grooved/slotted - aids in cooling and cleaning (allows air and dust to move from the inside of the disk to the outside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drilled and Grooved - as above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vented - allow air in between the braking surfaces to aid in cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drilled Vented and Grooved (as above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast steel/Iron - standard on road cars / motorbikes.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon Ceramic - common on race cars / high performance cars - these tend not to operate well at low temperatures and could actually perform worse on the road than normal road discs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:26:49.453" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-07-28T09:26:49.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:45:26.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I can't say what effect changing the pressure regulator on your specific vehicle will have but I do know that many Golf VR6 owners (3 bar pressure regulator) add a slightly modified Corrado unit (4 bar) which sharpens up the throttle response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that a small increase in pressure available to the injectors wouldn't cause a problem because the ECU is checking lambda so will adjust injector time to compensate.  I would suggest that a big increase may cause the injectors to leak and that a decrease may mean there may not be enough fuel available at full load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my car, I'd fit the 3.5 Bar unit but like I say, I'm not familiar enough with Volvo fuel systems to be able to say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:45:26.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2015-07-28T10:10:04.987" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You should be fine¹&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of fuel-injection management systems is that they can compensate for slight deviations in operation via feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of compensation is commonly referred to as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24149/675&quot;&gt;fuel trim&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (because the fuel injector pulsewidth is controlled (&quot;trimmed&quot;) by the fuel-injection management). It is not uncommon for vehicles to accommodate upto ± 25% fuel trim before giving up the ghost and throwing an error code/CEL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting a little geeky&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Engineering calculations follow. Here be dragons.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fuel injector could be approximated as pipe flow, so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sqrt( P1 / P2 ) α V1 / V2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, doubling fuel pressure increases fuel velocity by 44% (√2 = 1.44)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a 3 bar regulator is used, the relative change in fuel velocity is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;√ (3.0 / 3.09) = √0.97 = 0.985&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the fuel trims should change by +1.5%. This is well within the compensation limits of any modern-day fuel injection management system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even use a 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator (6% fuel trim impact), though the closer you are to the pressure which the vehicle was designed for, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - This is assuming the rest of the vehicle is fine in terms of air-mass/MAP/lambda sensors, fuel pump, absence of vacuum/air manifold leaks, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T12:46:38.267" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2015-07-28T10:18:02.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the fuel pressure right is absolutely critical for how the engine operates. The reason why is it directly affects the amount of fuel the injectors can pass when open. You can affect fuel delivery in three ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the injector (increase size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the pulse width (increase how long the injector stays open)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the fuel pressure (flow change is directly proportional to fuel pressure change)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are increasing the pressure, the flow output would increase as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate the exact amount of fuel increase you'll see at the injector by using this equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Flow = SQRT(New Pressure/Old Pressure) * Old Flow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to run through the math here, but you can find a calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx#Find_Fuel_Flow_After_Pressure_Change&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you are talking about increasing the pressure about 1/2 bar, or ~7psi. I'm going to use the case of increasing the pressure from 43.5 to 50.5 psi. If the injectors originally flowed 240 cc/min (22.84 lbs/hr) they would now be flowing 258.59 cc/min (24.6 lbs/hr). This is a large difference in the amount of fuel you'd be putting into the cylinder. More fuel than the fuel map and O2 sensors could overcome without a retune. You'd be running &lt;em&gt;very rich&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways you could overcome this issue is by replacing your old regulator with an &lt;em&gt;adjustable&lt;/em&gt; fuel pressure regulator. This would allow you to tune the fuel pressure to it's original pressure without too much of a fuss. There are many options out there for this, as is told in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=adjustable+fuel+pressure+regulator&amp;amp;safe=active&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google search&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T10:18:02.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T11:01:33.723" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 1990 TRX and I'm hating the headlights as they only have a single bulb.&#xA;Just wondering IF there are compatible headlights and tail lights from something like an S13 etc ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind doing a little modding just really prefer a dual bulb headlight with TWIN high beams ie. 1st bulb: Low/High 2nd bulb: High/spottie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11539" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T11:01:33.723" Title="1990 Nissan TRX headlights and Tail Lights" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-12-20T19:48:55.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2015-07-28T11:07:14.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have started correctly by cleaning the interior of the car. Keep it clean and eliminate physically any mold present, this always helps prevent the spreading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mold also requires some degree of moisture; your problem would probably not happen in places with 50% or less of relative humidity. There is not much you can do about the weather, but you can use desiccants to lower the humidity inside the car while it is stored. Silica gel is often used to package electronic parts (hard drives), and can be placed inside the car to lower water content. There are several brands used as cat litter, so check with your local pet store as this may be an effective way of obtaining a couple of pounds of the stuff for not too much money. Make sure the vehicle is well-closed during storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, just a thought: motor vehicles do not really like just standing around. The wheels will suffer from immobility for one, and there are quite a few gaskets in the engine room that need movement to remain properly oiled all around their circumference. So I would really encourage you to find someone willing to take the car for a 30-minute run from time to time, even if it does clock up some miles over the years.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T11:07:14.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T11:52:48.170" Score="3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;('04 Cavalier; 120K miles)&#xA;I'd been having a whining noise on (highway) left turns.  I found significant play in the right rear hub assembly, which I replaced.  In less than 200 miles, the same condition had recurred.  I got another under warranty, and installed that.  Now, after ~500 miles, there is again substantial play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that I got two bad units, though that's not totally out of the question.  When I replaced the first one, the mounting bolts were all tight, and everything &lt;em&gt;looked&lt;/em&gt; OK (to me).  Tire wear has been even throughout.  The car tracks OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what might cause such rapid failure would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For those not familiar with the Cavalier, it has a 'hub assembly', that mounts with 4 bolts.  There is no spindle nut.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T16:01:19.090" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T15:47:31.400" Title="Repeated rear bearing hub assembly failure" Tags="|chevrolet|suspension|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18894" CreationDate="2015-07-28T12:14:13.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bad coils are just one of &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; things that could be to blame.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say stop changing coils. It is highly unlikely that they were the root cause of the problem to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms provided are consistent with a misfiring engine. This usually means that there is an issue with the mixture of air and fuel reaching the engine (more on that in a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how come the car runs fine after returning from the garage?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no way of proving it, but this could be explained by the garage resetting the fuel trims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some vehicles, disconnecting the battery for a few hours is enough to reset the fuel trims; others require a scan tool. Either way, these fuel trims are re-learnt over time. While relearning, the car may operate well while the fuel trims are reasonable. As they worsen over time, the misfiring will return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what could be wrong?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were asked to highlight the probable culprits, they would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;unmetered air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the engine computer is sensing less air than what is actually present. Ask the garage to perform a smoke test on the intake to test this theory.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;faulty lambda sensor(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sensors are also commonly referred to as O2 sensors. If possible, hook up the vehicle to a scan tool and check if the sensor voltages are flitting between 0.2 and 0.8 V. If they aren't, the lambda sensors will likely need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;faulty MAF/MAP sensor(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no intake leaks (result of the smoke test), an under-reading sensor can explain why the engine is misfiring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this list is not exhaustive, but is a very good place to start hunting down such issues. All the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T12:14:13.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:11:00.603" Score="7" ViewCount="27003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idle_speed&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a passenger-car engine, idle speed is customarily between 600 rpm and 1,000 rpm. For buses and trucks it is approximately 540 rpm. In case of many single-cylinder motorcycle engines, idle speed is set between 1200-1500 rp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if 540 is the actual minimum rpm or if it could be lower in some vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T02:03:36.667" Title="Minimum RPM at idle speed" Tags="|rpm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18928" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:27:09.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idle speed is limited by the weight of the flywheel. A heavier flywheel allows for lower RPM idling and vice versa. If the flywheel is too light, it doesn't have enough inertia to keep the engine turning when you're not using the accelerator pedal. But if the flywheel is too heavy, the car won't accelerate fast enough. At 540 to 1000RPM idle speeds, you can assume the manufacturer found a good balance between performance and economy (lower RPM means less fuel consumption).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:27:09.010" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18928" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:28:13.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing saying that 540 RPM is the minimum theoretical speed for engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idle speed is usually controlled by carburetor settings or engine computer in case of fuel-injected engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed below which the engine cannot sustain itself is highly-dependent on its design and application. Usually the manufacturer will leave a little bit of wiggle room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:28:13.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:43:41.700" Score="3" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Toyota Corolla has been having an odd issue.  When the car is moving, even slowly, I hear something that sounds like rubbing, and as I go faster, there is a vibration that starts as though a tire or other spinning surface is rubbing against something at a specific point in its travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first noticed it when the weather was warmer, around April.  I know I needed a front brake pad replacement so I went ahead and did that.  When I was removing the pads on the driver's side I noticed that the pad was not worn evenly, as in one side of the pad was more worn than the other.  I wasn't in a position to do much diagnosis so I went ahead and replaced the pads.  More recently I have also replaced the caliper slide pins and lubed them well to hopefully resolve the uneven wear issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise persists.  Just a few days ago I started noticing a mild squeaking sound when the car is moving forward very slowly with no brake application.  It pulses, which leads me to believe the rotor could be warped, however there is little to no change in vibration when I hit the pedal even at highway speeds, though there IS an increase in the loudness of the rumbling sound.  I have checked for play in both front wheels and none exists, so I am ruling out wheel bearings.  I am wondering if I have a combination of bad/noisy tires and a warped brake rotor, but before I start disassembling anything else or buying more parts, I wanted to ask those more knowledgeable.... what is the issue??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T21:21:22.173" Title="Noise and vibration when car is moving" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18928" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:31:08.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idle speed is determined by fuel flow and air mixture based on either computer or carb/tbi - Flywheel does not determine the idle speed but only influences how easily the engine maintains its current rpm and how quickly it can increase or decrease (the answer above is slightly inaccurate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle speed differs by make and model and transmission type and is typically set based on the lowest RPM allowed to maintain enough inertia (based on flywheel weight) to allow:&#xA;1. The engine to stay running when the clutch is engaged in manual cars&#xA;2. Be in harmony with the stall speed of a torque converter in automatic transmissions (in order to allow the car to idle without resistance from the drive train - this rpm is lower than the stall speed of the converter ie. 700-800 RPM for a 1200RPM converter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6809" LastEditorUserId="6809" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T14:34:22.723" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T14:34:22.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18891" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:35:23.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mold needs moisture and darkness to grow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the car out into the driveway and roll down the windows &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunlight will kill whatever is exposed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get this stuff &lt;a href=&quot;https://moldzyme.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://moldzyme.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It works best when atomized - a sprayer can get close&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the cabin air filter &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTcTbUux2o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTcTbUux2o&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the HEATER at full blast and spray the car with moldzyme - let the HVAC suck up the moldzyme mist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe down all surfaces with moldzyme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take her down the highway at 100 MPH and blow that sucker out!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6809" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:35:23.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:58:52.947" Score="7" ViewCount="4272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car been checked several times at the mechanic's shop, they say can't find the reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both front axles have been replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got three sets of rims (Factory 16&quot;, Forzas 18&quot; and TIs 20&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mechanics blame the tires so that's why I changed them - they all still wobble; the bigger the rims the more I feel it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All tires have been balanced but the issue is still present&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is an '04 Camry, thinking of replacing hubs, but when car is jacked up with no tires the hub spins OK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? I'll appreciate if someone can help me figure out what might be wrong. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11547" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T18:07:40.727" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T15:48:49.340" Title="My steering wheel wobbles between 60 - 80 mph" Tags="|toyota|tires|camry|wheels|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18582" CreationDate="2015-07-28T18:08:45.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the rpms on it when on idle , it sounds like could be loosing power, could be spark plugs, or your ac compressor might be defective and applies a hold down on the engine and causes week air into brake booster n so when u apply brakes+ steer+ ac rpms drop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11547" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:08:45.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T19:06:22.187" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it good idea for me to install air conditioning in my car if my car does not have air conditioning build in?  Is it worth for me to spend the money to buy and install the air conditioning or it is better for me to buy new car with air conditioning build in instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for answering!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10561" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T20:24:45.630" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T20:24:45.630" Title="Install Air Conditioning in the car that does not have air conditioning build in" Tags="|honda|ac|accord|installation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-07-28T20:59:18.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18911" CreationDate="2015-07-28T19:32:13.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Faceplates are usually not interchangeable between models, however, I have heard the odd case of people doing this with Pioneer decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the new faceplate may fit in your Alpine head unit, all of the functions may not work correctly. The pins on the faceplate would have to match exactly with those on the head unit and thus the manufacturer would have to provide if it is compatible or not. I think it would be best to contact &lt;a href=&quot;http://alpine-usa.com/company/contact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alpine&lt;/a&gt; for the information you require. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways of adding an auxiliary port to your system (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gottabemobile.com/2014/07/19/how-to-add-an-audio-jack-to-your-car-stereo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FM_transmitter_(personal_device)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Nevertheless, getting a head unit with an auxiliary port (and not just the faceplate) is probably the best option in terms of sound quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:32:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:34:52.680" Score="3" ViewCount="4857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't use my key to unlock the door on the driver's side of my Honda Accord 2004 DX. It feels as though something is stuck inside the cylinder.  I tried to clean it with CRC cleaner, but it still feels like something is stuck inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been going through the passenger-side door to unlock the driver's door from inside. I do not have an electric remote to unlock the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research about replacing the cylinder, but it seemed like if I replaced the door cylinder, I would have to also replaced the ignition cylinder because the cylinder in the door must be matched to ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, maybe you have better idea to give me instead of replacing the lock cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10561" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T01:07:55.317" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T01:07:55.317" Title="Can't unlock the driver's side door with the key" Tags="|honda|accord|locks|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18941" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:46:46.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car is derived from Suzuki's Wagon R+ before 2007. They both share many parts, apart from the engine, and certain styling details, such as the tail lamps and spoiler (not on the Agila)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2007 basically identical to the Suzuki Splash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T22:30:47.490" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T22:30:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18942" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:46:46.290" Score="0" Body="A Vauxhall/Opel Car, derived from the Suzuki Wagon R+ and after 2007, the Suzuki Splash." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:23:21.607" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:23:21.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18946" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:47:15.037" Score="7" ViewCount="6456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always pull my handbrake up as high as it will go when I am parked (I put the button in and yank it pretty hard, until it won't go up anymore) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to remove again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend says this damages it, however I disagree with this, and hence this question! They pull it up to about 3/4 of the way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I damaging my handbrake by pulling it up all the way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T01:07:45.970" Title="Should I pull up the handbrake as high as it will go when parked?" Tags="|handbrake|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2015-07-29T01:03:48.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable may loose over time, so you'll have to adjust it.&#xA;Pull it all the way if you're parked on slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11526" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:03:48.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18940" CreationDate="2015-07-29T01:54:19.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using some graphite lube on the lock cylinder before you give up on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the lock cylinder, disassemble it, and clean it, you may improve it's function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be able to get the lock cylinder re-keyed at the dealer or a locksmith prior to installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:54:19.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2015-07-29T05:28:40.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you might be doing is putting the cable under more stress than it needs. The cable will stretch over time. This is normal. It will take a long time for the life of the cable to expire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember learning that automobiles automatically adjust for this stretch whenever you back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, don't hammer the thing unless you really feel you need to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try pulling it while pressing the button and while the car is in drive and use the e-brake to stop the car. Don't give it throttle but let it just move forward at idle and see exactly how much braking power your e-brake has. Then you'll know exactly how far up you must pull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T19:28:37.367" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:28:37.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2015-07-29T07:25:27.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just pull it until it feels tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T07:25:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T09:43:05.600" Score="2" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a learner driver with a Hyundai i20. Every now and then when I stop and then go and switch to second gear I get a blast of heat at my legs and feet. The aircon is off and its a diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking it because of switching to fast over to second or maybe leaving the clutch in a bit too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hyundai i20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11551" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T12:06:30.220" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:44:20.557" Title="I get a blast of hot air during stop start driving. What could cause this?" Tags="|clutch|hyundai|diesel|shifting|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T09:51:07.043" Score="7" ViewCount="59337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1.3 liter 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have this weird problem with the a/c where it stops cooling when I try going above 100kmph. The a/c cools just fine under 100kmph. But when I go over 100kmph, or accelerate above 3000rpm, it stops cooling. And once I go under 100kmph, it starts cooling again. There's also loud hiss that comes from somewhere inside the dashboard whenever this process takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is: &quot;(accelerates above 100kmph) -&gt; hiss -&gt; cooling stops -&gt; (decelerates) hiss -&gt; cooling starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Dubai and it gets pretty hot during the summer, and the roads I drive mostly have an average speed limit of 100kmph, so it's kinda important to me that my a/c cools both above and below 100kmph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've refilled the gas and also have replaced the compressor, but I still get this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a post about a Chevy having a similar problem (link below) and found out the issue was with the blower motor. Could my car have the similar issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9883/a-c-does-not-continuously-blow-cold&quot;&gt;A/C Does Not Continuously Blow Cold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate if anyone could come up with a solution. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and it's always wet at the foot space of my front passenger seat. What's the deal with that? Could that be the a/c water leaking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9971" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T18:42:48.243" Title="A/C does not cool when speeding more than 100kmph" Tags="|ac|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18949" CreationDate="2015-07-29T10:57:11.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four things that might cause this particular issue explaining in order of probability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some cars most notably Honda city/civic has an ECM cuts off switch which the ECU/ECM uses to stop the compressor of the AC to feed additional power to the engine for highway overtaking maneuver, If your car was like this since the day you bought it then no need to worry here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your AC Fan(condenser) is might be broken , i.e, Problem with the spindle, sometimes when the spindle is broken on travelling at high speeds , the fan is pushed backwards/inwards and this restricts the motion of the fan and it might slow down or stop causing the compressor to heat and causing the AC to shut down. another possible cause is with the electrics of the fan , possibly on high speeds something is coming loose and stopping the fan ultimately stopping the AC. I would suggest Checking the FAN FIRST.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T13:42:43.257" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:42:43.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18949" CreationDate="2015-07-29T13:19:29.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;&lt;em&gt;stops cooling at 3000rpm&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is exactly what @Anarach stated, in that the clutch disengages above this to allow more power to the engine. It could also do this so as to not over spin the A/C compressor. If you're engine is hitting the 3000rpm at 100kph, this is probably the reason. I just read that your Lancer may have came equipped with a Constant Velocity Transmission (CVT). If this is true, you may be having issues with it, where it is not adjusting to allow the rpm range down to where it's supposed to be. This, along with the 3000rpm limit, would make for the issues you are talking about. A transmission shop would have to verify this. If this pans out as accurate, it would definitely be an issue and would mean &lt;em&gt;there is nothing wrong with your Lancer's A/C system&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your drain is plugged is why the passenger side foot well is wet. You'll need to go under the car, find the drain tube (should be off the firewall, on the passenger side, made of flimsy rubber), and stick a long thin rod up it far enough to dislodge the blockage. If you've ran the AC recent enough, you'll probably notice when the blockage is cleared as you'll get a &quot;flush&quot; of water come out of the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem will not be like the included link (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9883/a-c-does-not-continuously-blow-cold&quot;&gt;my question&lt;/a&gt;). It is totally different I would bet. The main problem there happens &lt;em&gt;all the time, at any speed (engine or vehicle)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:19:29.573" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18948" CreationDate="2015-07-29T13:44:20.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking @SteveMatthews may be onto something - If the HVAC system is vacuum operated, one of the vacuum actuators is having an issue (ie: leaking). It may be getting adjusted without you having to do anything. When you shift gears, you take your foot off of the &quot;go pedal&quot; (not a gas pedal in this instance because it's diesel power ;-)), which causes a vacuum spike in the intake manifold. This spike could be translating directly to the vacuum actuator causing it to manipulate the blend door or outside air control door, causing you to get a blast of unwanted hot air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This is all conjecture at this point. This would especially be moot if there are manual (ie: cable controls) in the HVAC system in your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:44:20.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:15:38.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars that still have drum brakes on the rear will automatically adjust the shoes when backing up. I don't know of any automatically adjusting brake cable mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling harder than needed to hold the car in place just stretches the cable; used properly, it should probably never have to be adjusted, but keep stretching it and eventually you'll have to adjust it to get it to do anything useful at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common wisdom in Miata circles seems to be if you have to pull it up more than 5-6 clicks, you should adjust the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11554" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T01:07:45.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T01:07:45.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23904" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:19:42.210" Score="3" ViewCount="11373" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like I lost all of the refrigerant due to a leaky schrader valve and O-ring.  The A/C stopped cooling a few months ago, but I just got around to tracking down the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to flush the system, replace the compressor oil, etc? Or can I just replace the leaky valve and o-ring and re-charge the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the suggestions I've seen say to add 1-2 oz of compressor oil even if none has come out.  Can the compressor oil be over filled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11552" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:21:25.100" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:21:25.100" Title="After replacing A/C Schrader valve and O-Ring, Do I need just refrigerant?" Tags="|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15973" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:47:55.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally if I was doing this I would wire both components (camera and monitor) directly from the positive battery terminal. It'll look cleaner in the long run, as you won't have wires all over the cabin. However, this might make installing a switch more involved. That being said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grounding (what you referred to as Earthing), without getting into the electrical details (I'll leave that to someone else) is running a cable from your electrical part to the car's frame. The frame is connected to the negative battery terminal up front, so this makes a complete circuit on which electricity can flow. Just like when you jump a car, you can attach the ground to any point directly on the frame. On my 2005 Accord, that includes bolts hanging from the top of the trunk lid. Just make sure to &lt;strong&gt;sand any paint off of your grounding point,&lt;/strong&gt; as this will ensure a good electrical connection. For the back-up camera, I'd do a bolt in the trunk, and for the monitor itself, it looks like it's already grounded via the cigarette lighter component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to connect the two components to the same cigarette lighter is to solder the wires together, but with something low-voltage like this you can probably get away with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0041PF5QY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wire splicer&lt;/a&gt; instead. This will form sort of a Y-joint that you can use for the positive (red) cables. Again, leave the grounding of the two parts separate - no splicing necessary. &lt;strong&gt;Make sure you wrap any exposed metal in electrical tape after splicing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another answer pointed out, the yellow cable is a standard RCA connector for transmitting the video. It connects your monitor and camera; it does not go to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T18:47:55.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:05:03.037" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3,300 miles on my car.  I went to have the tires rotated and they said I have a small bubble on the driver side front. Can the tire be repaired? If I buy the exact same tire will the car drive the same?  It is only 8 months old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11557" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T08:32:08.387" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T08:32:08.387" Title="A relatively new tire question" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-30T14:29:31.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18956" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:13:16.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a defect in the tire, there is a tire manufacturers warranty which applies. You should not have to pay to have it replaced. As long as you don't have appreciable wear on (which 3300 miles should not create), you should be just fine with a new replacement. The car should drive just the same with a new replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T20:35:43.317" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T20:35:43.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18961" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:03:33.937" Score="1" ViewCount="3991" Body="&lt;p&gt;A valve assembly diagram from my Tacoma FSM designates valve guides as non-reusable.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rwhfb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rwhfb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I was wondering if that is just a CYA or really the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T22:36:21.200" LastActivityDate="2021-12-30T02:23:34.047" Title="Are valve guides normally reusable?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18962" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:24:04.013" Score="2" ViewCount="64774" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Opel Agila 1.2 has an advisory on it's MOT saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Front Brake imbalance [sic] high at 23%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's wrong with my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the 29% mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE: I am asking what it is, unlike &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5276/00-civic-brake-imbalance&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which asks for tips on how to fix them, and I don't find the answer very useful. I am asking what it is&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is all the info that I can find on the front brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Floating Calliper (Disc) brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;247mm Diameter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;12mm Thickness&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;NO ABS&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few more questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will it affect the braking of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will it be okay if I just leave it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2021-10-30T21:14:46.123" Title="What is brake imbalance? How can I fix it?" Tags="|brakes|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18959" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:25:39.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are non-reusable in the sense that if you take them out, you have to replace them. Valve guides are reusable until they are worn out; you don't replace them unless they are worn beyond usefulness. When they wear out, you can usually do one of three things: knurl; valve guide sleeve; new valve guide. You check the valve guide by the amount of side play there is in the valve when off-seat. The maximum amount allowed is going to be different for every engine. To understand the differences between the different fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knurl&lt;/strong&gt; - Think of the handle of a ratchet where there is a cross hatch printed into it. This is the same thing for knurling a valve guide, only it's done on the inside where the valve stem rides. They do this to the inside and it &lt;em&gt;squishes&lt;/em&gt; the portion of the valve guide out and replaces the space where material has been worn away. This is the cheapest and easiest fix, but unfortunately also lasts the least amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Guide Insert&lt;/strong&gt; - The original valve guide is left in place. The inside is reamed out just slightly and a new piece of valve guide material is driven into place. The new piece is then reamed out to size, which not only sets the size, but fixes it into place. This is a fairly cost effective way to fix the issue, with a minimal amount of effort to accomplish. This fix will last a long time (almost as good as a new valve guide).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Valve Guide&lt;/strong&gt; - The original valve guide is forced out of the head and a new replacement is put in its place. This is &lt;em&gt;the best&lt;/em&gt; fix, but is more costly than the other two fixes. Since it is a new valve guide, it will last as long as ... well ... a new valve guide.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all three fixes, you need to have a valve job done to ensure all of the valves and seats will seal correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T20:25:39.933" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18960" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:33:03.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake imbalance is caused because one side of the braking pair (front or back axle) is not applying as much power as the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's wrong with my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too many answers for this forum. It could be any number of things like a sticking caliper, or a worn pad, or air in the lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does the 23% mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the braking force for each side is measured, one side has 23% more stopping power than the other. I believe for the MOT it must be within 25% in order to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what the problem is and what type of brakes are being used. Without more information, like your brake type and what mechanically has been done recently, it would be hard to give you a good answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will it affect the braking of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it does affect the braking of your car. At 23% you can probably feel it pull to which ever side is stronger, but not bad enough you'd lose control of the vehicle. If you have disk brakes there is little you can do about it but check to ensure the calipers are working correctly, you have good and even pads, the rotors aren't worn out, and that the calipers slide correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will it be okay if I just leave it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are happy and don't feel there is any issue, you can leave it. MOT says it's just an advisory, so no worries there (this year). Personally, I'd want the bias down below 10%, so would try to figure out what the issue might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T22:16:40.510" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:16:40.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T22:39:17.540" Score="3" ViewCount="64941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Focus and it started sputtering a month ago. I've put gas treatment in and if I keep a full tank it's fine, but once it gets around half a tank it sputters. Now it sputters the whole time you're driving at low speeds and has started jerking along with the constant sputter. Any idea why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11559" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T13:19:41.193" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T19:42:22.620" Title="Sputtering and jerking while driving" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T22:50:07.633" Score="2" ViewCount="8565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Ford Mustang, 6 cylinder. A few hours after I drove it, the battery was completely dead. It can start with a jump, but if left to idle the engine stops soon after the cables are removed. I used a multimeter to check the battery, and when the engine is pushed to 2000 RPM, the battery jumps from 12V to 14V(pretty sure that means the alternator works). But once the engine is left to idle, it dies and needs another jump. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11560" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T23:18:52.510" Title="Car won't start, dies after jump" Tags="|engine|ford|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2015-07-30T00:37:03.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck had the same &quot;grinding thing&quot; at certain speeds like you all said... &#xA;The problem is called -VIBRATION- this happens when you're running your car, not when it's in parking, so this &quot;grinding thing is the laminate cover that protects your catalytic converter that vibrates, you just need to get a long screwdriver or whatever is better for you and move the laminate just a little bit far from your catalytic converter and that's it but if you have two make sure to check them both ✌ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11561" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T22:18:33.090" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T22:18:33.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T03:16:13.120" Score="5" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;The passenger side power sliding door will not work aside from manually opening closing it. The wire enclosure appears to be ok, it seems to be an issue with the components toward the back of the door as compared to the functioning driver side door. I'm at a loss for even what to refer to these parts as to do a reasonable search online. Most of the videos I see online refer to the wires in the enclosure getting bent over time, but I do not believe that is the case here - I'm pretty sure something mechanical is not right. In addition, after I close the manually, I will often get a series of clicks in the door before it stops. Any pointers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11562" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T10:31:47.850" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T10:31:47.850" Title="Broken 2009 Town and Country power sliding door" Tags="|chrysler|door|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18963" CreationDate="2015-07-30T08:31:17.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the fuel supply is being interrupted. This usually means that either the filter is blocked, one of the lines is blocked, or the breather is blocked, or as zhang says, air is getting into the system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try taking the fuel cap off while it is spluttering - if it suddenly clears up, it's the breather (put simply, if the breather is blocked, air can't get in to the tank to replace the fuel, so the fuel can't flow out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, try replacing the fuel filter(s). I'm not an expert of Fords, but it should be a relatively simple procedure - the Haynes manual should detail it. Blocked lines is unusual on modern cars, but you do still have rubber lines in the system that can get blocked, perish or develop pinholes - if the first two tricks don't work, you may find they need replacing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T08:31:17.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18963" CreationDate="2015-07-30T08:49:25.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;A sputtering (misfiring) engine indicates insufficient fuel/too much air&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation described, this sounds like an issue pertaining to low fuel pressure since the car doesn't suffer as much when the fuel tank is full (higher in-tank fuel pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following culprits spring to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a clogged &lt;em&gt;fuel filter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If enough gunk accumulates in the fuel filter the pressure at the fuel rail can get low enough to cause engine misfires. On most fuel delivery systems this should be replaceable standalone though filters that are integrated into the fuel pump are also commonplace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a failing &lt;em&gt;fuel pump&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As fuel pumps age their ability to pressurize fuel diminishes because the brushes in the electric motor wear out. Replacement/reconditioning is the only real option in such circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a bad &lt;em&gt;fuel pressure regulator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not likely in this situation. I'd expect issues across the board if this went bad and not just with a part-filled fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My recommended course of action&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;confirm that the fuel rail pressure is lower than expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if low, go for the low cost fix first by replacing the fuel filter if it hasn't been done already&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if that doesn't solve it, it is likely time to invest in a new fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P.S.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent misfires could also be down to bad fuel (specifically water in the fuel). You may want to confirm that fuel quality is not to blame here by emptying the fuel tank and visually inspecting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T08:49:25.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19227" CreationDate="2015-07-30T10:25:05.040" Score="1" ViewCount="13779" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the temperature outside is cooler, say less than 80°F, and I turn my AC on, everything works great and I get nice cold air in the car.  In the late afternoons however when the temperature is above 90°F, I get cold air for 2-3 minutes then I hear a 2-5 second groan followed by about 5-10 seconds of warm air and then everything returns back to normal again with cold air blowing for another 2-3 minutes before the cycle repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have ideas of how I can determine what is wrong?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC is the type where you just choose a fan setting between 0 - 4 (no thermostat to keep it at a set temperature).  No work has ever been done on the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can visually see the AC compressor turning on under the hood when I turn the AC on in the car.  Also worth noting is that my car sat for 3 weeks without being started while I was on vacation and this problem developed only once I got back and started driving it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9169" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T11:44:21.597" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:08:05.530" Title="AC alternates between blowing hot and cold in hot weather" Tags="|vw|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9867" CreationDate="2015-07-30T10:27:25.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the pictures, I take it the top pic is the one with the cover off (which is shown in the bottom pic). Going off this assumption, this part looks to be attached to an intermediate gear which changes the rotation so the final drive matches the rotation of the engine. It looks as though you'll need exactly the tool you described, a socket with four protruding fingers to grab the nut. You'll also need the torque spec on this as well when putting it back together. And by all means &lt;strong&gt;CLEAN THE HECK OUT OF THAT THING BEFORE REASSEMBLY!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T10:27:25.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:53:50.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally dit it. I tried the penetrating fluid but with no avail. I figured I needed more torque, but did not want to damage another ratchet. So I went ahead and welded the broken rachet head and also welded a 2 foot long tube to the end of the old ratchet. With this makeshift breaker bar I managed to apply enough torque to loosen the bold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastEditorUserId="11171" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T15:06:58.027" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T15:06:58.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:56:59.610" Score="2" ViewCount="9241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the motor heads modified (think thats what you call it), timing belt and water pump replaced in March 2014. The last few months I've been having problems with my car over heating. It turns out it's the water pump, which was under warranty, so took it back to the mechanic shop and had it replaced again. Now about 1 month later, I hear a knocking in the engine, park the car and next day I check the water reservoir and there is oil mixed in with the water. The mechanic takes my car again, and says that it's due to &quot;engine oil cooler is broken or damaged&quot;. So being a women, it makes sense, or what do you all think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11567" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:41:29.673" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T19:37:45.430" Title="Motor oil going into the radiator and reservoir- Chrysler 300" Tags="|cylinder-head|chrysler-300|oil-in-coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T15:15:38.730" Score="3" ViewCount="15921" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle breaks down while towing a trailer can a tow truck tow both your vehicle and the trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tow vehicle in this case is rear wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T14:59:45.850" LastActivityDate="2021-10-08T18:35:06.613" Title="Can a tow truck tow you and your trailer?" Tags="|towing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18982" CreationDate="2015-07-30T17:23:16.983" Score="3" ViewCount="6673" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I misunderstood what a &lt;code&gt;brake imbalance&lt;/code&gt; is and confused it with &lt;code&gt;brake bias&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18960/what-is-brake-imbalance-how-can-i-fix-it&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; describes what a &lt;code&gt;brake imbalance&lt;/code&gt; is and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5276/00-civic-brake-imbalance&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; describes some causes and fixes for it.  &lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The braking ability of my 98 Dodge Dakota 2WD is... let's say lackluster.  It has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading online and observing the massive amount of brake dust on my front wheels, I think my rear brakes are slacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I determine that my vehicle has a &lt;s&gt;&lt;code&gt;brake imbalance&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/s&gt; improper &lt;code&gt;brake bias&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/strong&gt;  I work on my truck in my back yard with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T14:33:49.787" Title="How to Determine If front Brakes Do All the Work?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18983" CreationDate="2015-07-30T18:36:48.993" Score="3" ViewCount="1604" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front right ( UK drivers side) electric window on my 2004 Forester has never worked, and today I took the motor out to inspect - and it's toast, utterly rotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the same as the back one? I know the regulators are different, but are the motors? Is it the same as the pre 2002 models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New motors seem to go for a fortune on eBay, so I'm hoping I can find either a decent second hand one or a cheaper alternative...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T09:21:20.037" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T09:21:20.037" Title="Subaru forester electric window motor - part identification" Tags="|subaru|power-windows|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18978" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:43:48.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the parts diagrams and lists on &lt;a href=&quot;http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s11/type_22/body_equipment_exterior/door_parts_glass_and_regulator/illustration_1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Opposed Forces&lt;/a&gt;, you are out of luck as far as using a rear door's motor. Each of the four doors has its own part number; the front right's number is 61188SA001 whereas the front left is 61188SA010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you see &lt;a href=&quot;http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/61188SA001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the usage list for 61188SA001&lt;/a&gt;, this part seems to have been used on a wide range of S11 vehicles. In the UK/Europe, Foresters built from 2002 to mid-2006 will have this part, as will USDM models from late 2001 through the beginning of 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an alternative part number, &lt;a href=&quot;http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/61188SA000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;61188SA000&lt;/a&gt;, from earlier Forester models, that will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T19:43:48.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18976" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:30:08.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time the tow company will do one of the following based on the equipment they have available at the time you call listed most common to least common:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your tow vehicle on a rollback, and tow the trailer at the same time with the same roll back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send a second truck (sometimes a regular truck not a wrecker) to tow you trailer, this is done more often if your trailer is a fifth wheel or goose neck. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tow your vehicle while leaving your trailer hooked up to your tow vehicle, this is usually only done for short distances and or when that's the only equipment they have currently available If the vehicle is rear wheel drive they simply pull the drive shaft. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tow your tow vehicle with the trailer connected on a large rollback. This is getting into heavy duty (tractor trailer size) wreckers and usually isn't cost effective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictured below is a rollback that can haul one car on the bed and another with the wheel lift on the back (red bar) the wheel lift also has a place to hook up a trailer, so your tow vehicle goes on top and your trailer is pulled behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G68Bj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G68Bj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another example of towing a vehicle while leaving the trailer (three trailers in this instance) hooked up. They could do the same with a medium duty wrecker for your car and trailer. Of course local laws will play a roll in what can be done in some cases. Especially once you get past towing something with double or triple trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9OdS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9OdS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T15:20:15.787" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:20:15.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18976" CreationDate="2015-07-30T21:06:24.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When requesting the tow, the user should clearly state &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fact that there is also a trailer that needs to be towed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight of said trailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trailer hitch type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the towing company may not be able to send a suitable tow vehicle to the site. Not all tow vehicles have a tow hitch of both types (ball and NATO), and not all tow vehicles have a sufficient total weight capacity to include the weight of the tow vehicle + the towed vehicle + the trailer. Ditto for the tow driver's licence, that may be restricted to a certain weight. This depends on the country - driving licence weight categories are not the same everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take a couple of examples, a fully loaded expedition 4x4 can go up to 3500 kg for the vehicle + 3000kg for the trailer - not something many tow vehicles can handle all at once. You would need a medium truck for this one. On the other hand, a small city car with a small trailer could be just 1000kg + 300 kg, which a typical tow vehicle would just shrug off. I have seen this second case actually happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to take into consideration would be the small print on the contract of assistance, which may or may not include stipulations for this situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T09:03:46.317" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T09:03:46.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18977" CreationDate="2015-07-30T21:41:35.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, brake imbalance is measured left to right, not front to rear. There is &lt;em&gt;braking bias&lt;/em&gt; front to rear, but it is supposed to be that way. Most brake systems are setup with about a 70/30 brake bias front/rear. Most of the braking is done up front so that your rear brakes don't lock up on you. As you brake, weight is transferred forward, which means you have less weight on the rear of the vehicle. Due to this, if you had equal braking between front/rear, you'd be having braking issues. Every model of vehicle can have a different braking bias as it will be tuned to the needs of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you are probably seeing a lot of brake dust up front is because of either organic, semi-metallic, or metallic brake pads. If you don't want loads of brake dust up front, put ceramic pads on your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can actually answer your question, brake imbalance (left/right) can only accurately be measured (that I know of) on a brake machine. The wheels go on independent rollers (left/right). These rollers are turned to make the tires turn. You then apply the brakes in the vehicle which reads the amount of torque which is applied to the rollers from your tires. The readings are measured against each other which gives you a percentage difference between the two. Usually, as long as the vehicle isn't pulling to one side or the other during hard braking, you'll not have much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T21:41:35.170" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18978" CreationDate="2015-07-30T22:12:09.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FL/RR: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3472212&amp;amp;cc=1426788&amp;amp;jnid=424&amp;amp;jpid=0&quot;&gt;61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FR/LR: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3472590&amp;amp;cc=1426788&amp;amp;jnid=424&amp;amp;jpid=1&quot;&gt;61188FE011, 61188FE012, 61188FE031, 61188FE032, 61188SA000, 61188SA001, 62113FC110, 62188SA010, 62188SA011, 62188SA012, 63113FC110&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T22:12:09.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19000" CreationDate="2015-07-30T22:20:34.503" Score="8" ViewCount="45570" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving around with a huge hole in my front bumper cover for two years, I finally decided to replace it myself.  I bought a new bumper cover through my local friendly auto body supply store, along with a gray primer and a custom-made single stage paint that they loaded into a spray can for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it home, sanded it with the gray scotch brite pad, wiped it down, and applied two layers of primer, waiting a full day and sanding between each coat.  I then applied two layers of my custom single-stage paint, again waiting a full day between each coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing the painted bumper and waiting a few more days, I scrubbed at it by hand with an old sock and some Turtle Wax Premium Polishing Compound.  It now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BN63u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BN63u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Painted new bumper cover on Mazda 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it looks good, but nowhere near the glossiness of the rest of my car (even 7 years after it came off the factory line).  The one run you see below the left headlamp was my ill-advised attempt to increase the sheen by applying more paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a closeup of the difference between my paint job, and the factory paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFlgq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFlgq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of DIY paint job&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, I can see my reflection in the factory paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What critical step am I missing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of auto forums that casually mention &quot;cutting&quot; the paint, as in the phrase &quot;cut, buff, and polish&quot;.  What is &quot;cutting&quot; a new paint job, and is this the step I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see references to &quot;rubbing compound&quot;, which is supposed to be a coarser grit compared to the polishing compound.  Could this be what I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10829" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T00:04:19.650" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T01:30:15.377" Title="How do I finish my DIY, single-stage paint job to a gloss?" Tags="|paint|finish|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2015-07-30T23:00:28.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An impact wrench - even an electric - can do wonderful things.  I just had a 10mm with a torx head that I struggled with all afternoon.  It just wouldn't come, and got to where the torx teeth were pretty close to stripped out.  My brother brought over his impact, and it came off in 10 secs.  I have seen the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:00:28.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2015-07-31T01:20:58.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a paint &amp;amp; body guy, but every one I have talked to suggested to me you put down one layer, then let it dry until it gets tacky (about 10 minutes or so), then lay down your next layer. I guess since you sanded between layers you should have good adhesion, but ... I would suggest that cutting then buffing are in your future. Right now I'm guessing you are at an &quot;orange peal&quot; state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, what does &quot;cutting&quot; mean? I see the term used everywhere, without any definition. Do I get a katana and start slicing away at my bumper? Do I start up FruityLoops and lay down a drum roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of &quot;cutting&quot; or &quot;cutting in&quot; as a liquid sand paper. I found this video on YouTube which shows how &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/kk5VYnYZ1qg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meguiar's Ultra-Cut 105&lt;/a&gt; should be used. Cutting compound is used to clean up scratches left behind by 1500+ grit sand paper, which is a step before cutting. Polishing cleans up any leftovers from the cutting. Then you put a good wax on after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/C6PyXbrNbsE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another good video by Meguiar's&lt;/a&gt; which shows the entire process from sanding through wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T01:20:58.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2015-07-31T06:16:31.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be like what the mechanic said and would not be too expensive to fix You only need to change the radiator. Now you have had overheating, which is an engine destroyer, and you heard knocking sound, which does not sound too good. The engine &quot;head&quot; might have warped causing the oil to leak into coolant through the head gasket which is sandwiched between head and engine block. If this were the case, you are looking at thousands to change the cylinder head and head gasket. In the worst case, which is not uncommon, your engine internals might have be damaged and you need a new 2nd hand engine! So start by changing the radiator as per the mechanic, and see if it stops there. Never overheat engine. This is the engine destroyer/car buster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:16:31.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18964" CreationDate="2015-07-31T06:27:02.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally if alternator is good, car won't die even without battery. I suspect alternator. I suggest you to buy a battery charger and charge battery and buy a Solar BA7 tester to test how many CCA are left in your battery. After eliminating battery problem, go ahead and buy an alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:27:02.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2015-07-31T06:39:06.857" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to lift up the front end and shake the tyres horizontally and vertically. If there are any play, some suspension bushings or steering components need replacing. if there are play in any direction, the hub is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:39:06.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2015-07-31T06:53:46.613" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It pays to get a Solar brand battery tester which uses a conductance test to evaluate how many CCA is left in your battery. That way you can decide when it is time to let go of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:53:46.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T07:45:11.137" Score="3" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to purchase a motorcycle and according to it's wikipedia article it has two major flaws: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Being the company's first fuel-injected 600cc sportbike, the initial&#xA;  2000 model had choppy throttle response and bad fuel mapping, leading&#xA;  to harsh on/off throttle transitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean? Is it possible to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_TT600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triumph TT600 Wiki Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T01:17:30.043" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T01:17:38.470" Title="What is choppy throttle response and bad fuel mapping and can it be fixed?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-injection|triumph|tt600|ecu-mapping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18994" CreationDate="2015-07-31T08:16:08.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the later models (2002 / 2003) had a new fuel map and were a lot smoother.  It ought to be possible to remap the ECU on the bike or possibly replace it with one from a later model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a prospective bike to purchase ride it and see how it feels.  It may be that the fuel map on the bike has already been adjusted, if not, budget for a remap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T08:16:08.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18994" CreationDate="2015-07-31T08:17:33.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The on/off throttle transitions can be resolved by a mixture of remapping ECUs (in the case of a fuel injected bike) or re-jetting the carburetors as well as fitting a &quot;Throttle Tamer Tube&quot; to your accelerator handle.  Basically its a slightly different shaped cam on the Throttle handle that slows down/speeds up the transition so between on and off throttle so that the bike behaves more as you expect/want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mandp.co.uk/index.php/default/40-4f-136-throttle-tamer-tube.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;throttle tamer can be seen here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEI3z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEI3z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle Tamer tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the left side you will see the tube is shaved slightly to slow the response down a bit (i.e. slow the butterfly in the throttle body opening so fast), others can be found that speed up the throttle opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T08:17:33.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2015-07-31T10:22:29.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you not spray a clear coat as the last coat? The glossyness comes from that layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T10:22:29.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2015-07-31T10:42:07.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paintwork looks like it's suffering from orange peel.  It may be that you need more or thicker coats on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a nice shiny finish from what you have you effectively need to flatten out the outer surface of the paint finish.  There are a few ways to do this.  As stated previously, cutting paste can be quite effective but may take quite a long time.  I'd personally get some very high grade sand paper.  I'd get something like 1500 or 2000 grade wet and dry.  Consider 1200 grade if that's all that's available but go easy with it.  Use a sanding block too, otherwise your fingers will drop into the contours of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a bucket of luke warm water and put a TINY (like a drop or two) amount of washing up liquid in it.  Keep the sand paper very wet and keep wetting it.  If you go too hard on this you may go through the paint and back to the primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this you can start using cutting compound (cutting paste) before finishing with a good wash, polish and wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future, if you paint a &quot;wet line&quot; into the panel you can effectively paint shine in but if you put too much on you get runs which you also have to buff out so it's a case of practice, practice, practice.  I have to say it does look good for a first attempt though :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T10:42:07.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T11:08:34.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Kia Rio with ~75,000 miles. After I first start the car and accelerate away from where it was parked (especially if I accelerate hard), the car will repeatedly make a quick sound that almost sounds like air escaping out of a high-pressure valve or something. Maybe every 10 or 15 seconds there's just a quick burst of &quot;pfft.&quot; By 5 or 6 minutes into the trip, it seems to work itself out. I've noticed the sound seems slightly more common during gear changes, but is not exclusively related to shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Other details...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started relatively recently (2 or 3 months ago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seems to be getting worse - originally, it would do it once or twice during the early minutes of my trips, and it wouldn't do it every time. Now, it does it 10 or 20 times, and it's nearly every trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gas mileage seems to have been reduced, though it's hard to tell w/ summer fuel blends, A/C usage, and the like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this could be? I thought misfiring was a possibility, but the check engine light isn't coming on. Is this something that's potentially a big enough issue to get checked out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastEditorUserId="7159" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T14:57:36.997" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T00:00:51.557" Title="2009 Kia Rio - Potential Misfiring?" Tags="|engine|kia|misfire|rio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2015-07-31T11:21:58.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the part that the mechanic may have been referring to was the Oil Cooler.  I'm not familiar with this specific vehicle but many engines employ an oil cooler which uses engine coolant to cool the oil.  This takes in oil under pressure from the oil pump and feeds it back into the oil system, on it's coolant side, it takes coolant in from the water pump and feeds it back into the cooling system.  If this is corroded it can allow the oil and water to mix inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, oil in the coolant is usually an indication of a failed cylinder head gasket which is quite an involved and potentially expensive job to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to have the engine compression tested (or leak down tested, a slightly different process but essentially checks for similar things) and only if this test (quick and cheap to do) confirms that the engine is healthy should you proceed with spending money changing things like the oil cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of interest, is the oil in the coolant black or is it creamy like mayo?  If it's a mayo like consistency this indicates it's been getting incredibly hot and you should get a compression or leak down test done as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T11:21:58.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16406" CreationDate="2015-07-31T12:11:50.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm told that the bulk of the break-in is done in the first few minutes of running and that no synthetic of any kind should be used. You're in &quot;test pilot&quot; land now, all bets are off... If it was me (a person not afraid of blowing up an engine), I'd switch to conventional and do a lot of WOT/decel runs to try to beat in the last of the break-in that I could and then just see how it goes, expecting higher than normal oil consumption and possibly needing to rebuild it again shortly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T12:11:50.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15760" CreationDate="2015-07-31T12:36:17.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a true dollar cost per km, then do a stock rebuild on the engine. The small amount of abuse from the hp gain you are talking about can be easily absorbed by internals of a stock engine. You just need to ensure you are doing things right. There are several things you can do while rebuilding an engine which will help with longevity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18183/what-is-a-stress-riser&quot;&gt;stress risers&lt;/a&gt; from the block and rotating assembly. Single best thing you can do for longevity of an engine. This will also lower the reciprocating weight of the engine assembly, which will help the engine rev higher and quicker. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the internals balanced. While they are balanced from the factory, they are balanced within a tolerance. (After you have the stress risers removed from the engine, you'll need to get the parts rebalanced anyway.) Balancing will help keep things even between parts so there will be less vibration and power output will be equalized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay for &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; machining. Don't be afraid to invest a little bit of money into your block. Things like align honing the mains and decking go a long way towards protecting your rebuild investment. If you get your engine bored (for larger pistons), ensure the machine shop uses a torque plate on the block to have round cylinders as a final product of the work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use micrometers and dial bore gauge instead of Plastigage to check all clearances (rods &amp;amp; mains). This is by far more accurate and will yield better results. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting money in your block is money well spent. If you build the bottom end to take it, you can later add to the top end (head work, turbo install, cam shafts, etc) and not worry about whether the bottom end can take it. Build the bottom end right the first time and the longevity of the engine will increase exponentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T12:36:17.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15734" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:03:39.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when this occurs it is because of a dirty throttle body. You need to take it off carefully and clean it carefully (throttle body or carb cleaner), then re-install. You'll want to pull the negative lead to the battery when you do this. Then, upon re-install, you'll find it will probably idle just fine, but will want to rev high on its own after putting it in gear. The PCM will need to recalibrate itself. To fix this, you can take it to the GM dealership and have them put a TechII on it for the throttle relearn, or you can take it out for a drive which usually consists of about 200 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:03:39.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15454" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:06:19.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that it's just getting worn out. Something you can check is to see if the exhaust is leaking around the manifolds ... look for black suet on the heads right at the exhaust manifolds. New manifold gaskets will fix this if it's actually the issue. This problem can actually affect the gas mileage as you will be sucking in oxygen at the leaks which confuses the O2 sensors into telling the computer to dump more fuel (it reads a false lean condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:06:19.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15032" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:10:41.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have checked the plugs and coil(s), but looks like you already found that answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:10:41.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18976" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:38:50.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of years ago my Jeep blew a head gasket on the motorway whilst towing an empty car trailer.  When I called for recovery and explained that I had a trailer, they sent a low loader with a tow bar.  They strapped my Jeep to the flatbed of the recovery wagon and attached the trailer to the tow bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some years later, my car trailer burst a tyre whilst at a motorsport event.  I'd managed to get my race car to the event and compete but obviously couldn't drive it home on a trailer with a flat tyre so we loaded the race car onto a friends recovery truck and placed the stricken trailer onto another friends recovery truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect towing a vehicle that is hitched to a trailer (and therefore also towing) to be illegal, it certainly would be dangerous as it would become very difficult to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:38:50.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24289" CreationDate="2015-07-31T14:04:22.530" Score="6" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a previous question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18712/7132&quot;&gt;regarding my dashboard lights not working&lt;/a&gt; I found that the &quot;tail&quot; fuse would burn out immediately upon turning on the headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is after someone did repairs to the horn, and pulled out bunch of extra wiring that had been put in to support an after market horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good guides on the net which could help me with how to track down a short circuit like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:19:08.373" Title="How to Track Down an Electrical Short" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|fuse|short|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18949" CreationDate="2015-07-31T14:12:15.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Seems like the high-side pressure is &lt;em&gt;too high&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The refrigerant needs to be operating at the right pressures in order for the air-con to function properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pressure is too low, there is risk of compressor damage in addition to lack of cooling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pressure is too high, the effectiveness of cooling diminishes &lt;em&gt;at the very least&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid hitting issues related to this, modern air-conditioning circuits are equipped with a &lt;em&gt;pressure switch/sensor&lt;/em&gt;. Its job is to protect the system from self-destruction by preventing the AC from running under the wrong conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lancer-specific details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/42892-ac-not-working-properly&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;scrap of information&lt;/a&gt; on the ETCG forum, it seems that Mitsubishi utilizes both low-side and high-side pressure switches on the Lancer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DosAk.png&quot; alt=&quot;AC specs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I cannot promise the values will work for your Lancer due to regional variations, the fact that there is a high-side cutoff can explain the AC not working above 3000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's so special about 3000 RPM?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressor speed depends on engine speed. The higher the engine speed, the faster the compressor spins. The faster a compressor spins, the higher its discharge pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like around 3000 RPM the compressor is able to nudge the high-side pressure past the allowable limit, causing the switch to intervene and disengage the compressor clutch (&lt;em&gt;hiss...&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where to look for the smoking gun?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the symptoms and maintenance history shared so far (non-OEM replacement compressor, refrigerant recharge), there are two possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;non-conformant compressor specs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the compressor employed is not fit for the Lancer because it is increasing the pressure too much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;too much refrigerant in the system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More refrigerant, more system pressure. Less refrigerant, less system pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recommendations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the low-side and high-side pressures of the system if possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, find detailed specs on your Lancer's AC system like in the image above. There is a good chance this information will be presented in the owner's manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If information found, have the system evacuated completely and have the right amount of refrigerant (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;by mass&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) refilled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If information not available, have some refrigerant removed try to match the pressures on both high side and low side as best as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the difference between low-side and high-side is too much regardless of the amount of refrigerant used, chances are that the compressor is not a good match and it needs to be replaced with one more suitable for the Lancer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T14:12:15.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7954" CreationDate="2015-07-31T14:58:31.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that MAF is a reading of the amount of air entering the engine. If you have a backflow issues (high backpressure) or even a timing issue where the valves are not opening and closing at the correct time (slack chains, jumped timing), your MAF sensor readings will reflect this as well. I know this post is late, but any who are looking into this forum for answer may find this info helpful. You can check VE by checking your g/s peak at second shift WOT and compare that to the answer to this equation: (engine liters)X 40. If your readings are too high, you will experience rich conditions, positive fuel trims above 10%, and possibly rich codes. If your readings are too low, then the opposite will be true. HTH someone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11572" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T14:58:31.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:24:31.833" Score="2" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that valve lapping compound, as it is abrasive, should by no means get into valve guides as it will impede the reciprocal motion or damage the valve. Should I worry about small amount residue amounts that are left over in the valve shaft and can be seen through intake runners but difficult to reach?  Should I try to clean it with an air pistol or water blast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:21:07.063" Title="Residue lapping compound in valve shafts" Tags="|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19018" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:32:22.410" Score="8" ViewCount="4574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/CoolCarsHotGuitars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pete's Garage on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; and the guy is absolutely amazing and very enlightening on the subject.  He has at least one video on engine painting but he mentions it in a number of other videos.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, he doesn't really expound on why an engine should be painted.  What are the benefits of painting an engine?  For example, my Tacoma has an aluminum block and aluminum heads but they are not painted.  Why are some other engines painted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:45:02.840" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T05:30:00.730" Title="Why would I paint my car engine?" Tags="|engine|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:48:28.240" Score="6" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 91 Buick park Ave that is experiencing these symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting from a cold start the engine will turn over, reach around 1000 rpm, then die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applying gas and turning the key the engine revs up and idles at a higher rpm (say 3000) once gas is released the engine dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gas is held the engine will cycle through a couple different rpms. For 5 to 6 seconds it will idle at the higher rpm (say 3000) then drop 1000 rpm for 2-3 seconds (down to 2000 rpm) then back up to the higher rpm (3000) for 5-6 more seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is in the Idle Air Control Valve not working consistently. I've replaced the IAC. It is supposed to behave by traveling out when given power and in when the power is cut. The out behavior works fine while the in behavior is sporadic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried replacing the ECU, IAC, TPS, and the O2 sensor. There are no continuity issues or vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11573" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T00:07:30.703" Title="Idle drop in 1991 Buick Park Avenue" Tags="|idle|buick|park-avenue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19014" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:21:07.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are hand lapping the valves you should have the springs, retainers, etc removed. You can remove the valve and clean the valve stems and guides. I would use a  parts cleaning solvent on the valves. Use a nylon or plastic brush on the guides. A steel brush may scratch the inside of the guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:21:07.063" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19015" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:45:51.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most practical purposes, it's done for cosmetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; prefer to use black over silver for better heat dissipation but the motivation is almost always going to be to enhance appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cast iron blocks, the paint can act as a means of rust prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:45:51.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:02:26.793" Score="2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1998 Dodge Durango. It's a 4x4 5.9L v8. I'm looking at replacing the transmission and seeing as I don't really need 4wd in the city, I'd like to get better fuel economy and better acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether or not it's cost effective/good idea to turn this pulling machine into more of a muscle car machine by swapping the tranny and rear differential? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9904" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:41:48.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T00:56:47.670" Title="Transmission replacement and changing gear ratios" Tags="|transmission|dodge|truck|gear-ratio|durango|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:38:13.730" Score="5" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had my 2012 Mini Cooper S (66K miles) repaired last week last week for a failed/leaky water pump. My car had an episode where it overheated and shut down and wouldn't start after pulling over and allowing it to cool. It was towed to the dealership where they found it to have both a short in the battery and the failed water pump. The brand new water pump was installed at the Mini dealership along with a new battery and it was determined there was no other problems. Four days later the car just shut down while driving to work with the engine light coming on (the temperature light did not come on). Towed again to the dealership and have now been informed that water was leaking into the engine basically destroying it and a whole new engine is required. My 3 year/36000K warranty is obviously expired. Cost of new engine approx $11,000. Mini will put up approx $8K leaving me $3,500 cost. They state because I have been a good customer and bring in car for regular service and own a second 2013 Mini I got for my wife 2 years ago. Could an improperly installed water pump have caused this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't set well with me and my question is if the new water pump was somehow installed improperly at the service department could that have contributed or been the cause? The brand new engine will have a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. Options limited as the car is fully paid for so I am faced with spending the $3,500 on basically a relatively new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11574" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:13:35.087" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T22:56:44.973" Title="Water leaking into frame case/engine?" Tags="|engine|overheating|water-pump|water-leak|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19020" CreationDate="2015-07-31T18:55:46.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the overheating episode did a permanent damage to your car. A gasket could have cracked or the head could have warped or even cracked, thus allowing water into the engine itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much heat in an engine can cause serious problems because heat&#xA;causes metal to expand. The hotter the engine gets, the tighter&#xA;clearances become until there are no more clearances left. Overheating&#xA;can cause valve stems to gall and stick, and pistons to scuff and&#xA;seize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive heat can also cause cylinder heads to swell, warp and/or&#xA;crack. Aluminum heads are especially vulnerable to warpage and&#xA;cracking because aluminum has a much higher coefficient of thermal&#xA;expansion than cast iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/us697.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broken water pump was probably to blame in the overheating episode. The new one did nothing wrong but to pump water into the already cracked/warped engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:55:46.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19015" CreationDate="2015-07-31T19:47:14.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is mainly for aesthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else it can do for you is to allow you to see when you have a leak. I've seen blocks painted white for this reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you didn't mention was whether you are talking about painting the outside or the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the engine. If done right, painting the inside of the engine can result in oil returning faster to the oil pan. I'm not sure that it is done that often, but it's another reason for painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T19:47:14.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19053" CreationDate="2015-07-31T21:42:35.837" Score="4" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18779/11481&quot;&gt;This is a follow up to another question I asked.&lt;/a&gt; I've managed to get some &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/J8U1DT7pXIQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of it happening this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started happening after travelling for about 2 hours. I was experiencing heavy traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time this happened was after I was driving for an extended period of time. It never happens when I'm commuting to and from work. For the last two weeks it has been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the gear only slips out after accelerating, and in the 2900-3000rpm range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the gear does slip out, the car doesn't coast as if it's in neutral. The car doesn't merely lose momentum either; something is actively slowing the car down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Polo 2001, 1.4 engine, manual, petrol. It has done ~37,000 miles. It passed MOT in June; serviced in July with replacement timing belt; new clutch in July.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth replacing my car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What precautions should I take?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it the clutch or the gearbox?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have warranty on my clutch; if it is the gearbox, how much is a replacement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is the gearbox, is there any possibility of damage to my clutch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11481" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:34:49.157" Title="After long journeys, gear slips in 5th, but not into neutral" Tags="|clutch|car|manual-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19020" CreationDate="2015-07-31T21:46:45.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing that may be the problem is that the water pump could have locked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pump was running off of the timing belt/chain then it could have seized. This could have jammed the belt, and locked the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could cause the valves to stop moving, while the pistons carry on. This causes the pistons to smash into the valves which could have also caused engine damage, as obviously it would damage the valves as you're amazing into them hundreds of times a second, which was exacerbated by driving it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T22:56:44.973" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T22:56:44.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6359" CreationDate="2015-07-31T21:56:11.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you have an idle and stalling problem with a 3800 series 2, don't mess around with it.  change the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, and the upper plastic intake manifold plenum itself.  and cross it off your list.  that problem will drive you f-ing nuts.  they can leak internally and defy all diagnostics.  the lower intake manifold can leak vacuum by pulling from the lifter valley area, under the manifold, from the engine internally.  IMPOSSIBLE to find with smoke, spray, etc.  just change it.  the gaskets are usually mush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11578" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T21:56:11.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6359" CreationDate="2015-07-31T22:38:46.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Gary's assessment about the Manifold gaskets. The Olds 3800 is a &quot;workhorse&quot; engine as is the 3.3, only you don't see much of the 3.3's on the shelf or in the shop. As this is an older piece of iron it stands to reason that the gaskets may need replacing. If you have a tuned ear you can hear a leak or at least hear the approximate location of one and yes you can use the smoke it out method but in the end i know most shops will use the carb o medic solution for a diagnosis, if not to make a quick and accurate diagnosis and save them time and YOU money! As Cinelli pointed out doing a hose by hose check is time consuming and you run the risk of damaging the already brittle plastic vacuum hoses those models use, it's also hard to tell where the smoke is going when the engine is running and or the fan cuts in while doing so. If you were to spray on a cold engine and only in short bursts around gasket surfaces, ie throttle body to intake, intake to engine, the brake booster line and connections, and the hose ends all the while listening for the engine revs to alter in pitch, I think you will in short order find any suspected leak or rule it out as a problem allowing you to move onto other causes. A $5 can of Carb cleaner is cheaper than a $80-$150 an hr., bill. Hope this helped and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11580" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:38:46.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18964" CreationDate="2015-07-31T23:18:52.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have a good alternator and still not charge the batteries if the connections are corroded in anyway or a battery clamp is loose or cracked. Also check the fusible links there should be one in line between the alternator to starter to battery circuit but if its pumping out 14 volts at 2000 rpm and wont idle for long afterwords then i suspect the voltage regulator in the alternator. To check this connect a voltmeter positive to the output post on the alternator and the voltmeter negative to ground, rev the engine up and down and watch the voltage output , if it fluctuates all over and intermittently then the voltage reg is the issue. Check the battery voltage at engine stop and if its the same voltage at idle then its the voltage reg or some other issue inside the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11580" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T23:18:52.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19019" CreationDate="2015-07-31T23:19:37.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Better fuel economy and acceleration&quot; are typically mutually exclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll gain one at the expense of the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to influence these is by the use of your right foot. Unless you can significantly improve the power to weight ratio of the vehicle by shedding weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you go too far you might want to consider the cost of your changes and the anticipated fuel savings. In many cases it will take many years to get a return on your investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T23:19:37.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19019" CreationDate="2015-08-01T00:56:47.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the transmission is slipping now a rebuild will give you a slight gain in mpg. If you have the optional towing differential with a 3.92 ratio then changing to the standard 3.55 will also yield a small gain. This will hurt acceleration though, while increasing highway mileage. The biggest issue is &quot;cost to benefit&quot; ratio and the time to recoup those costs that are strictly to increase mileage. The Durango is a heavy vehicle with a large motor. A realistic mpg would be 12-14 in city driving. If the gear change and tranny swap netted a 20% gain (this would be a huge gain) to 14-17 mpg. With a cost of $4000 (ball park estimate). At 15000 miles per year the fuel savings would be about 350 gallons per year. At $3.00 a gallon that's 4 years to get a return on investment on a 17 year old vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T00:56:47.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T01:33:50.473" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn my keys and all lights are on but when I try to turn the car on nothing happens. Would it be that my starter is bad and need a new replace? Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11584" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T02:19:38.603" Title="Lights works when car turns on but won't start when I turn the keys. Would it be the starter?" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19033" CreationDate="2015-08-01T02:19:38.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;A bad starter is just &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; possibility&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generic culprits for no-cranking include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bad starter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bad starter relay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't hear a &quot;click&quot; when you try to start the engine this is may be worth checking&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;faulty ignition switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the relay doesn't click when the key is turned, but clicks when 12 V is applied to it externally, the switch might be to blame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recommendation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider replacing the starter &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; eliminating the other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T02:19:38.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T06:01:46.820" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an x3 diesel latest model bought it at an auction. Now it had a heavy diesel knock sound. So I decided to open the top. When I did, I saw neither visual damage on my injectors nor the cylinder head. But one piston is not reaching the highest level of tdc. What could have caused this? Secondly do I have to remove the diff in order to take out the sump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11585" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T15:52:44.087" Title="x3 bmw latest model has a diesel knock, opened the top one piston not reaching tdc" Tags="|diesel|knock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19038" CreationDate="2015-08-01T11:18:38.657" Score="6" ViewCount="1676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still in the learning process and I am okay with torque converter but there are some things I can't understand very well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the impeller and turbine have vanes in opposite directions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the turbine have more of vanes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the stator have to change fluid direction anyways?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="12816" LastEditDate="2018-09-03T20:32:41.120" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T20:32:41.120" Title="How does a torque converter work?" Tags="|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T13:36:02.643" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an ajs dd125e-8 it was delivered on Monday and I had no problems until yesterday on my way home from work.  I got half way home and the bike just started to slow down and no matter how much throttle input on it wouldn't do more than 30mph.  There is a small rattle but only just noticeable any chance someone knows what the problem is as I can't afford the delivery costs of getting it to the nearest dealer and I'm hoping it's something easy to fix.&#xA;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11586" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T14:39:33.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T14:39:33.027" Title="Motorbike Lack of power/speed" Tags="|motorcycle|power|rattle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-17T10:41:10.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19036" CreationDate="2015-08-01T15:45:31.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does the impeller and turbine have vanes in opposite directions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several parts to a torque converter (TC):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission Fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The housing it attached to directly to the engine. It spins at the same speed as the engine (obviously). Attached to the housing are the fins of the pump. The pump is a centrifugal type pump. As it spins faster, more fluid is moved through the torque converter. The turbine portion of the TC has blades, which you pointed out, point in the opposite direction of the pump blades. &lt;strong&gt;They are set opposite so that they can &lt;em&gt;catch&lt;/em&gt; the oncoming fluid which is being forced at it from the pump blades.&lt;/strong&gt; This causes a directional change of the fluid, which in turns causes the turbine to spin. The turbine is the portion of the TC which is attached to the transmission itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does the turbine have more of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every manufacturer is going to build their TC's different, this includes the vane count on the pump and turbine. This means the turbine will not always have more than the pump will. The manufacturer's design will also include what the pitch is on any of the vanes, how closely they are run together, overall diameter of the TC, and many other factors. While the overall concept and work ability of these are the same, the differences are distinct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does the stator have to change fluid direction anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stator's main job is to increase the efficiency of the TC. The TC overall is a &lt;em&gt;fluid coupling device&lt;/em&gt;. Without the fluid, the pump would turn, but nothing would happen. With forcing the fluid through the TC, it becomes coupled, and the force is transmitted to the transmission. The stator is there to make the TC not just a fluid coupling device, but also allows it to become a &lt;em&gt;torque multiplier&lt;/em&gt;. This allows low torque areas of the torque curve (low rpm areas) to generate more torque and allow it to be transferred through the transmission and move the vehicle. Without the fluid change, none of this would be possible. Physics dictates, in order to move an object you must apply force to the object. The directional change of the fluid provides the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T15:45:31.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19035" CreationDate="2015-08-01T15:52:44.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreeing with @Zaid on con rod deformation. The only way you are going to be able to tell is by taking it apart. I don't think I worry too much about pulling the diff to get the sump out, but just pulling the entire engine. If you are seeing that the piston is not reaching it's potential inside of the bore, you have something going on in the bottom end which will need attention (possibly a complete rebuild). You can take the sump off, but ultimately the engine will have to come out to get it fixed correctly. By pulling the engine, you'll be able to see more directly what the issue is and get it fixed. Pulling the sump is just extra work for something you know will have to be done anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T15:52:44.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T16:30:58.640" Score="4" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timing chain has stretched and the cam carriers have shattered after only 72,000 miles. What could cause this? I have found out that the car was mapped/chipped by the previous owner. Have no idea about cars. PLEASE HELP. The car needs a new engine. If the re mapping caused this, then I'm hoping the car dealer (who didn't notify me it had been re mapped when I bought it 7 months ago) will be liable for the costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11588" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T16:30:58.640" Title="What would cause the cam carriers to shatter on my BMW 3 Series (2011)" Tags="|bmw|timing|camshaft|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19043" CreationDate="2015-08-01T21:40:03.343" Score="9" ViewCount="18135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 97 Dodge Grand Caravan that's generally in pretty good shape, but the roof has started peeling badly, and a few spots have accumulated some rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is an old car with limited value, so I'm not interested in putting a lot of money into cosmetics at this point... but I would still like to keep it looking somewhat decent, and (mainly) prevent the roof from rusting through&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm looking for help/advice here, because I'm a software guy with embarrassingly little know-how when it comes to cars (or really, doing anything with my hands :( ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After putzing around on the internet I'm thinking to peel the paint away as best I can, spray the rusty spots with a rust converter (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002NUABUO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), then spray the whole roof down with a basic enamel spray paint (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003CT4ADO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound like a halfway reasonable idea? If so, any tips on how not to botch the operation? If not... what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If I don't care about the aesthetics at all, would it be &quot;enough&quot; to spray the rust with the rust converter and leave it at that? Or do I need more protection provided by enamel / something else to prevent the rust from coming back immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures (open in new tab for original large size):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/5OFCW5u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/5OFCW5u.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/kdBX6RN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/kdBX6RN.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WeT7h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WeT7h.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/im3WC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/im3WC.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItmJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItmJY.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Az2oO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Az2oO.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4028" LastEditorUserId="4028" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T21:46:16.823" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T22:31:33.700" Title="Roof paint peeling badly, with rust -- what to do?" Tags="|dodge|paint|rust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19042" CreationDate="2015-08-01T23:52:33.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd just do it right and be done with it. Don't feel bad about the peeling paint as all of the Dodge/Chrysler products of the era did the same thing (GM had a phase of this as well ... I would bet Ford had its problems in this area to boot). The problem was (from my understanding) when manufacturers were required to go to water based paint to reduce volatile organic compounds (&lt;a href=&quot;http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_0033/0901b803800334e7.pdf?filepath=oxysolvents/pdfs/noreg/110-00892.pdf&amp;amp;fromPage=GetDoc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;VOCs&lt;/a&gt;). The primer at that time wasn't up to the task of keeping paint adhered to the surface of the vehicle and so, after a few years of baking in the sun, it lets loose and vehicles start looking like yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I would just sand down the rust areas, use some sealer/primer, then follow with rattle cans of your color of paint. You can go to most any place which does automotive paints and get paint made for your color of vehicle put into rattle cans. This is a &lt;em&gt;very common occurrence&lt;/em&gt;. The rust which is on your vehicle now is just minor surface rust. It shouldn't take too much elbow grease to get it completely removed from the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rust converter. If you do decide to go that route, realize that it usually goes on thick. It will not want to lay very flat on the vehicle, so your aesthetics portion will go out the window. It will do a great job of converting the rust, but the finish will suck. Secondly, it takes a beating from UV light, which will make it degrade over time. If you are going this route, you need to cover it with the final color in order for it to survive as well as at least make it look like some semblance of normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T23:52:33.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19050" CreationDate="2015-08-02T10:12:46.343" Score="8" ViewCount="4908" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what ways can a torque converter stop working properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any symptoms that indicate failure, or simple tests one could do to determine a malfunctioning TC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T19:55:18.520" Title="How can torque converters fail?" Tags="|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17480" CreationDate="2015-08-02T11:19:38.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to a few things related to the fuel supply line, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a leaky fuel injector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minute cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the reason why the rolling-start fix works is that it applies an additional load on the engine that demands extra fuel. The fuel pump would then increase fuel pressure to the point where vaporization is no longer a concern, allowing the engine to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T11:19:38.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19675" CreationDate="2015-08-02T14:40:06.580" Score="4" ViewCount="23622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a newbie question for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a 2004 Yamaha TTR600RE- a single-cylinder, air-cooled dirt-focused dual-sport bike. It's perfectly set up for adventure touring, which is what I want it for. The engine has 11k miles on it (not the original engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the owner has said it burns about a pint of oil every 400 miles on the freeway, which doesn't seem to bode well for any long distance trips in remote places (I'm planning a &quot;RTW&quot;-type trip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner also points out that &quot;The bike sometimes lets out a puff smoke from the exhaust on starting so the valve seals are worn its not a problem did a 1500 mile trip last september.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the valve seals the likely culprit? If not, why else could this bike be burning oil? Would a mechanic, upon breaking open the engine, be able to say definitively whether the valve seals or piston ring or anything else are at fault? What would the ball-park cost for replacing the valve seals and piston ring be? (closer to $200 or $500?) How likely is it that the cause of the oil burning would not be properly diagnosed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If worst comes to worst, what would a ballpark cost for an engine rebuild / new engine plus installation be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I'd look for other bikes (and I am still looking), but the bike market where I live is quite small and the TTR is relatively inexpensive and seems to fit the bill in almost every other way (includes many otherwise expensive upgrades for overlanding). So if a valve seal / piston ring replacement would probably do the trick, I'd go for it. I'd appreciate your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11593" LastEditorUserId="11593" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T14:51:29.377" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:54:01.407" Title="Why is this motorcycle burning oil, and how can I get it to stop?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19047" CreationDate="2015-08-02T18:51:56.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A torque converter (TC) can fail in several different situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since TCs are made of metal, they are welded together. These welds can fail (split or break) due to excess pressure or by a poor welding job. This is most easily noticed leaking transmission fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internally, depending on how the pump, stator, or turbine blades are affixed, these too may become loose or disconnected from their home. This usually results in catastrophic failure of both the TC and the transmission as bits/pieces of metal go through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stator clutch (or sprague unit) can fail. If the stator is allowed to turn in either direction, the TC will lose its ability to allow the TC to torque multiply. When this failure occurs, it will feel like the vehicle is very sluggish from take off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some TCs have a lock-up mechanism. When a vehicle gets up to speed, the pump and turbine start spinning at almost the same speed. The lock-up mechanism will cause these two parts to spin as one, which increases efficiencies by doing so. This type of failure is usually noticed by a wobble (out of balance feeling ... like a tire being out of balance) when it is trying to engage. It will continue to wobble, but pulling your foot off the accelerator for a brief second, then back on will usually allow it to lock up and the wobble will go away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In performance applications, if pressures and heat are high enough, the outer shell can actually bulge outward. This would be hard to detect without seeing the TC direction, but performance would suffer much like if the stator clutch had failed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T18:51:56.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19054" CreationDate="2015-08-02T19:56:29.410" Score="1" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a veglia oil pressure gauge from a fiat coupe 16v. On the reverse of the clock is 4 pins, the top and left ones are labeled negative and positive respectivly, but can anyone tell me what the other 2 pins are for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11595" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T20:23:26.227" Title="What is the pin layout / labels of this oil gauge?" Tags="|electrical|gauges|pressure|instrument|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2015-08-02T20:05:57.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are experiencing is usually a sign the synchro for that gear is or is going bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is it worth replacing my car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if you can afford it. Fixing the transmission is going to be way less expensive than replacing the entire vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;What precautions should I take?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to drive it, just hold the stick in place for that gear. You would, in effect, be doing the work for the synchro to hold it in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is it the clutch or the gearbox?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more than likely synchros in the gearbox, not the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I have warranty on my clutch; if it is the gearbox, how much is a replacement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on your locality. I'm not able to answer it for you due to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If it is the gearbox, is there any possibility of damage to my clutch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not usually, unless there was damage to it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is it worth replacing my car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked this already, so ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T20:05:57.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19052" CreationDate="2015-08-02T20:23:26.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this diagram will help. This is for a Pantera, but it is a Veglia gauge. Don't pay any attention to the colors they mention, but everything else should be golden for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lrrl1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lrrl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T20:23:26.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19068" CreationDate="2015-08-02T22:36:59.120" Score="3" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in reprogramming a Magneti Marelli Microplex MED604C ECU for the ignition of an uno turbo, but I can't seem to find any documentation on this? I'm new to ECU remapping, and my understanding is that all the resources available relate to post 1996 ECUs using the ISO 9141-2 OBD-2 protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some help on how to approach this, maybe some documentation or what protocols I need to use to access and reprogram this ECU? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11595" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T14:58:51.677" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T15:56:01.667" Title="Reprogramming a Magneti Marelli Microplex MED604C" Tags="|ignition|electronic-control-module|tuning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T23:12:37.413" Score="1" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dodge Stratus 2000 SE 2.4 L with 150,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to change the timing belt and water pump, since my mechanic told me to do so because of the mileage it had on it. Anyways, I went and replaced the timing belt, water pump and oil pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it was replaced, I noticed the car was shaking in idle and on gear, very little on gear 1.5k - 2k RPM. My mechanic told me it could be the wires, so I replace the wires, the plugs, coils, etc.. He told me to clean the injectors with Seafoam and put super unleaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, is been two months and I still have the problems. I don't know what it can be; I'm very confused about the whole situation. I know for sure before I replaced the timing belt, water pump and oil pump the car was running fine. It was only after I changed the parts that it started to shake and vibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done some research and some asking around they say the car can be out of timing, timing belt missing a tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are my consequences of running my car out of time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was my mechanic just stringing me along because he knew? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the average price to set the timing belt in time on my car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is my engine light not on? Can i still check the computer with a DTC scanner? Will it tell me if something is wrong? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance, any answers will be very appreciated. God bless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11600" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T04:10:02.520" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T04:11:42.150" Title="Dodge Stratus 2000 shaking at idle after timing belt replacement" Tags="|engine|dodge|timing-belt|stratus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19056" CreationDate="2015-08-03T00:22:07.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you go thinking the belt is out of time, when your mechanic told you about the wires, what he may have been suggesting is that you have the wires on the wrong plugs. This will create the imbalance you are talking about, yet most of the time will not show a trouble code (because they are all still firing, just not at the right time). Double check to ensure you have the wires in the right places, from the coils to the spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are my consequences of running my car Out of time, ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have already run it, whatever damage could be done is done. If you run it out of time, you'll get crappy gas mileage, plus the irritation of having to feel the vibration with nothing you can readily do for it (except take it apart and fix it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was my Mechanic just stringing me along, Cause he knew, ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You never really stated if &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; did the work or if &lt;em&gt;your mechanic&lt;/em&gt; did the work. I'll assume you did the work and you are asking your mechanic for advice. In light of that, I doubt your mechanic was doing anything other than &lt;em&gt;trying to help you get it right&lt;/em&gt;. What he described to you is the way I would have gone about it, but I would have said something about the timing up front as this is usually the case. If it was running well before, there is no reason why any other part involved would have anything to do with it running bad (ie: plugs don't go bad from sitting on the shelf ... same with the other parts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why my engine light is not on, Can i still check the computer with (DTC), WILL IT TELL ME SOMETHING IS WRONG, ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no engine light is on, it's not going to tell you a thing. I assume you pulled the battery cable before you did the work, therefore any codes which might have been there from before would be wiped. If your scanner has live data, you might be able to tell if it's pulling time or picking up knock from the sensor, but beyond that, if you don't have a fully functional scanner, it's not going to tell you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T00:22:07.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19056" CreationDate="2015-08-03T04:02:08.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few thoughts (in no particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It sounds like one or more cylinders are not firing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to isolate the problematic cylinder(s). Assuming the car has run for a bit since the timing belt swap, you could try to inspect the spark plugs to see if any of them is wet or looks different from the rest. This should give you focus in on the problem area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/9438/675&quot;&gt;how to diagnose misfires&lt;/a&gt;  in SI engines may be of use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ageing fuel injectors can get sticky if unused for extended periods&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be the cause of the persistent shaking (can't promise it though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an injector is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; clogged up then no amount of Seafoaming or running fuel injector cleaner through the fuel tank will fix it. You will want to establish if this is really the case by taking out the injectors and testing them¹.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultrasonic cleaning might help; in the worst case scenario the injector will need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hear what the ECU has to say&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull any present DTC's with a code scanner. This will aid tremendously in the diagnosis. Sometimes there are DTC's which do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; trigger the check engine light (CEL).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - Mandatory &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/dp-ECEpN52k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; link to understand how one could test &amp;amp; clean the injectors à la DIY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T04:11:42.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19060" CreationDate="2015-08-03T06:14:43.570" Score="4" ViewCount="1087" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of the background: I have a Mercedes that has a serpentine belt-driven air pump to help reduce smog in the exhaust. I heard this whole pump can be removed without causing any trouble, so I decided to go ahead to reduce repair problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I realised there is a shutoff valve connected between pump and exhaust manifold. And this valve seems vacuum-actuated as there is a thin clear line that goes into it, which I assume is a vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I removed this air pump and shut off valve, the vacuum line would be open, which I think may cause vacuum leak. Are there any ways to address this vacuum line issue? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:37:56.247" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:37:56.247" Title="Are there plugs for sale that are used to plug unused (thin) vacuum lines?" Tags="|smog-pump|vacuum|hose|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19059" CreationDate="2015-08-03T06:33:05.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put a plug in the vacuum line or put a cap over the port at the other end of the line. Ask for Vacuum Caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The air injection system on my car is much more than just the smog pump. I think you should try to understand the operation of the system before you try to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T06:33:05.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19059" CreationDate="2015-08-03T08:30:21.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few comments in addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19060/675&quot;&gt;David's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can be creative with how the vacuum hose is closed off&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something as simple as a bulldog clip will do - the purpose is to seal off one end. Another more permanent solution would be to remove the hose and weld the nipple shut&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't forget the other holes resulting from a smog pump delete&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other holes that will need to be plugged, the line going from the pump to the exhaust side in particular. If this hole isn't plugged up, it can and will throw off the fuel-injection management; resulting in poor fuel economy and/or lumpy throttle &lt;em&gt;at best&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T08:30:21.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19070" CreationDate="2015-08-03T08:56:46.503" Score="12" ViewCount="68808" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was spring-cleaning my man-cave/garage over the weekend and came across my assortment of chemical sprays - specifically carb cleaner and throttle body cleaner which caught my eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any practical difference between brake, carb &amp;amp; throttle body cleaners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go through a lot of brake cleaner and usually don't have enough in stock. Is it possible to substitute it with either carb or TB cleaner? Based on smell alone, I wouldn't imagine so; it seems like the brake cleaner is very dilute in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carb and TB cleaners seem quite concentrated. I don't have any carburetors to clean, so could I use the can up to clean throttle bodies instead without any concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T11:03:10.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T18:00:58.557" Title="Brake cleaner vs carb cleaner vs throttle-body cleaner" Tags="|chemicals|brake-cleaner|carb-cleaner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19069" CreationDate="2015-08-03T09:14:08.803" Score="8" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I parked next to a (beautiful) 1957 Buick &quot;Special&quot; and took a bunch of photos. But I also noticed a lever to the left of the steering wheel, between the dash and the driver's side door, that I can't figure out what is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5OZF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5OZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/8zBDHZS.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7626N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7626N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/X47c0&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope these pictures are sufficient. Or should I ask in a dedicated classic car forum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastEditorUserId="6473" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T06:52:29.367" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T06:52:29.367" Title="What is this lever?" Tags="|part-identification|buick|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19062" CreationDate="2015-08-03T09:20:55.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use them both interchangeably, some products here in the UK are now labeled &quot;Fuel System Cleaner&quot; and are essentially the exact same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T09:20:55.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19066" CreationDate="2015-08-03T09:31:05.193" Score="5" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 VW Golf Variant. There's no problem, I'm just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just after I have opened the driver's side door, a small motor runs for about one second, then stops. This also happens if I stay seated after stopping the car, and then open the door after some time has passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certain that it is not related to the door opening/locking mechanism. Perhaps it could be the fuel pump pre-charging the engine (if it even does that...)? While and after starting the engine, I can't hear that sound (but that may be because it's being drowned out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:34:07.383" Title="What is that sound?" Tags="|vw|noise|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19065" CreationDate="2015-08-03T09:42:31.160" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the sound of the fuel pump priming and pressurizing the fuel lines, which is absolutely normal. VW likes to use the opening of the driver door to trigger fuel rail pressurization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, one could use the absence of the sound of the fuel pump as a tell-tale sign that the fuel pump relay is not functioning properly. As @Paulster2 points out, either that or the fuel pump itself needs investigating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T11:34:07.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:34:07.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19055" CreationDate="2015-08-03T09:59:25.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I noted in the comments, I don't think the ECU is programmable, hence why you can't find anything on the topic online. It can still be &quot;chipped&quot;, i.e. removing one or more EPROM's and soldering in a flashed substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives you could try are either;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a)&lt;/strong&gt; swapping out the entire ECU with an aftermarket unit, e.g. Diktator, Spitronics, etc or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b)&lt;/strong&gt; installing a piggyback chip like the UniQ that will intercept signals and change them to fool the ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you could get your hands on reasonably priced (or free) software to do the work. You might, but I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T15:56:01.667" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T15:56:01.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19063" CreationDate="2015-08-03T10:18:18.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not positive, but it looks like a vent actuator. In most older vehicles there were manual vents down in the foot well area of the passenger cabin. You'd have to reach down to actuate it by pulling/pushing a knob. Since Buick's were a little more on the &quot;high end&quot; of the car food chain, they would have such controls at easier access to the driver (possibly passenger as well). The control for the vent would be in close proximity so the driver wouldn't have to reach as far to activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T10:18:18.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19062" CreationDate="2015-08-03T11:19:10.733" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen quite bit of traffic on the internet about the differences. As with what Steve said, there isn't much. A lot of the things which people are saying are things like: &quot;Carb cleaner leaves a residue, while brake cleaner doesn't&quot;. I pulled the Data Safety Sheet for both of the CRC cleaners (trying to keep apples-to-apples here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carb Cleaner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIxue.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIxue.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Cleaner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q86ad.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q86ad.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot less Toluene and Acetone in the brake cleaner than there is in the carb cleaner, so I can suggest there would be less of a propensity for these chemicals to hang around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Google, Toluene is a colorless, water-insoluble liquid with the smell associated with paint thinners. It is a mono-substituted benzene derivative, consisting of a CH₃ group attached to a phenyl group. Acetone is a colorless, volatile, flammable liquid, and is the simplest ketone. I'm not a chemist, but believe either of these could leave a residue behind if left in sufficient quantities. Since the brake cleaner has much less of them, it would seem the parts cleaned with these would have far less of a chance to have a left behind residue. This seems to hold true with the internet gab going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T17:49:05.373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T17:49:05.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19042" CreationDate="2015-08-03T12:41:27.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2 has covered the painting angle, so I would like to take a look at other alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get the exact original look, with the same finish as on the other car panels is through a professional paint job. If doing a DIY job, this is just about impossible to get - so let's go wild and aim for something totally different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option are the new(ish) products that combine rust converter/protector with car enamel in a single product. Rustoleum is a brand often found in the States, or Hammerite in the UK. These are rather thick liquids, so can actually often be applied manually with a brush - brush traces are there, but next to invisible unless you are looking for them. You will need to work on a sanded &lt;em&gt;and cleaned&lt;/em&gt; surface, in a dust-free ambient for best results. Try to keep the temperature relatively high (20C / 70F), but out of direct sunlight while it is drying. Two layers. Simple colors such as black or red work best (and also combine well with white).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second suggestion is vinyl. Many sign-making shops do this, e.g. for company vehicles. Even the German police use this system to cover the green parts of their cars. When they sell the cars off, the vinyl can be peeled of and the vehicle sold with the original paint in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case also, a sanded and cleaned surface is needed to apply the plastic correctly. Any imperfections will show up quite clearly. Dark colors are best to obtain maximum coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of this system is that it can be reversed at any time. The other is that you are not limited to plain colors, any motive can also be used. Europe is rife with small Mini cars with the roof covered in the British Union Jack flag - tastes may vary, but just about anything is possible nowadays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9YnTj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9YnTj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;German Police car&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: Wikipedia, uploaded by user mpd01605&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T12:41:27.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T13:59:55.230" Score="4" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevrolet 2008 Cobalt (LS) that I've had for about 7 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No sooner do I have this thing payed off, when it starts giving me the following problem (I've never had any trouble with it before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried everything we can think of, but to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine light comes on. During regular driving, especially after idling, while trying to speed up, the engine light flashes. This usually doesn't happen (the flashing) once I get going on the highway. What's more, whenever the engine light is flashing, I can tell that the car loses energy (I say energy, but what I really mean is that the car loses acceleration).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A simple computer reads &lt;em&gt;&quot;Cylinder 4 misfire.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When idling (most of the time), the engine sounds pretty shaky, like it's on the verge of dying or not getting enough gas, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It shifts from 1st to 2nd pretty roughly, but not always, and when it does, the engine light is usually flashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While accelerating to higher speeds on the highway and the engine is flashing (thus the acceleration is poor, as if it were only getting fuel from 3 of the 4 cylinders [&amp;lt;-- just a guess/just what it feels like]), eventually I reach a good speed and then it's like the 4th cylinder &lt;em&gt;&quot;kicks in&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (or otherwise regains more accelerating power) and I feel the normal torque of the car and the engine light quits flashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now that it has gotten worse, it dies a lot while idling, at stop signs, at stop lights, and even sometimes when turning a corner and I'm not giving it gas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The above symptom ceases when I have the air-conditioner turned off (that is, the car has a much better time &lt;em&gt;&quot;not dying&quot;&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's what all we've tried:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the cylinder 4 fuel injector (twice in case we got a bad part).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the cylinder 4 coil pack (twice in case we got a bad part).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed all spark plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did a compression test on cylinder 4 (read a little low, 125, I think, but I was told &lt;em&gt;&quot;not enough to cause this.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tested the fuel pump. It tested just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed cam-sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's all the symptoms and things we've tried that I can think of. I'm no car guru, but even our technician is having trouble figuring this one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss, as I've never heard of this problem before. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, since this question was posted, I've had the pulley and belt system replaced (it was aged a bit) and all 4 cylinders tested (they tested all about the same at approx. 125 psi, each). The problem still persists, though it seems a little better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11605" LastEditorUserId="11605" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T14:23:57.570" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T00:45:36.600" Title="Why is my Chevy 2008 Cobalt not acting as though it's getting enough fuel and reading &quot;cylinder 4 misfire?&quot;" Tags="|chevrolet|cel|rough-idle|misfire|cobalt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19072" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:25:09.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There appears to be a similar case on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/problems-service/28302-cylinder-3-misfire-service-traction-3.html#post556829&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cobalt forum&lt;/a&gt;, where compression test figures are reported to be around &lt;strong&gt;220 psi&lt;/strong&gt;, roughly double what you're reporting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case for your vehicle, it would seem that the problem is related to a lack of compression and not fuel, air or spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T14:25:09.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:57:55.267" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the picture, there are burn marks around SOME of my exhaust valve tops and not others (2 out of the 3 cylinders in the picture):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EI8BN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EI8BN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for them? Could it be pinging or premature combustion before the valves were sealed closed?  Or perhaps that the valves weren't sealing tight.  Since then, I have undergone a complete and detailed head and valve rebuild, cleaning all the valves, crud inside ports, lapped the valves and replaced the stem seals.  I have also performed water tests to make sure the valves don't leak after the service I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a V6 Tacoma and the reason I took it apart is to replace the head gaskets (but then I decided to do the valves while I was at it) because the truck was overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T15:20:51.123" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:59:37.233" Title="Burn marks near SOME exhaust valves inside heads" Tags="|toyota|valve|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:58:23.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's necessary to go into specifics. Just generally speaking you can already determine that it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things are tested to breaking point and then a large safety margin is applied. By overloading the rack by 30% while driving at the fastest speeds it will have been tested at you are eating up a large portion of the safety margin and straying dangerously into the meaty portion of the bell curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11608" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T14:58:23.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:30:41.540" Score="5" ViewCount="11675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Chevy Aveo and the key will not turn to the off position. It starts and drives but when you try to turn it off it will not turn past the accessory position to the off position. When the car has been sitting overnight the battery goes dead and it needs to be jump started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11610" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T21:38:31.510" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T15:36:54.210" Title="Key won't turn to off position on 2010 Chevy Aveo" Tags="|chevrolet|ignition-key|aveo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19078" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:34:35.767" Score="7" ViewCount="5094" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was doing my valve servicing, one question came to mind:  As valves undergo millions of cycles of reciprocating motion, do they actually rotate or is their position relative to the seal fixed? Or is any possible rotation undesirable and could cause a loss of seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the spring keeps the valve tight, there isn't really any mechanism that locks its position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T15:55:48.153" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T06:30:20.597" Title="Do valves rotate over time?" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:53:42.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer to your question is: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;They rotate all the time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This happens during the open/close cycling and not while closed. This is the reason why we have to lap the valves so the entire face of the valve will seal with the seat and not just one little part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T15:53:42.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:57:12.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the valves do rotate under normal operation albeit slowly.  Some valves have rotate mechanisms to ensure they rotate at a predictable rate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/comp/vlves/valverotation.html&quot;&gt;http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/comp/vlves/valverotation.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://courses.washington.edu/engr100/Section_Wei/engine/UofWindsorManual/Valve%20Train.htm&quot;&gt;http://courses.washington.edu/engr100/Section_Wei/engine/UofWindsorManual/Valve%20Train.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotation action helps keep the valve and seat clear of debris to ensure good sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T15:57:12.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19081" CreationDate="2015-08-01T18:45:24.197" Score="5" ViewCount="4353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who has asked me to help him sort out his truck lighting. It is a 24v truck with a 24-12v dc-dc converter for the body. It has 2 flashing lights, that when active make all the other lights on the body flicker. When I disconnect the flashing lights the other lights are bright and stable so it must be the cause or part of it. &#xA;I have checked all the wiring, the supply is 12awg,then from a distribution block each load has 18awg cable. The converter is a 30amp rated model(I'd guess 20amp continuous which should be plenty for the modest lighting). I've added an image, I hope it is clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on the cause, and solution? I would prefer to keep things as original as possible as I have not looked up the driving regs on these lights yet. However I would consider an LED replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help and information. I appreciate what all you people with knowledge do on these forums.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3memj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3memj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Frosty" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:28:21.037" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:28:21.037" Title="Trouble with lights on truck, using dc-dc converter &amp; flasher unit" Tags="|truck|flasher|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19080" CreationDate="2015-08-01T20:10:29.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;tomnexus comment is your culprit. Incandescent bulbs have a filament which has much lower resistance when cold than when it's been on for a fraction of a second. As a general rule, the resistance is 1/10 to 1/20 the hot resistance. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incandescent_light_bulb#Current_and_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incandescent_light_bulb#Current_and_resistance&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, uses a number of 1/15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both flashers turn on, their total current will (briefly) be in the range of $$i =2 x 1.75x15 = 52 amps$$ and it's no wonder your converter can't keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a check, remove 1 bulb from the flasher and see if this doesn't improve the problem. I suspect you'll still get a noticeable flicker, but it should be better than what you're seeing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two solutions. Either replace your flashers with LEDs, or build a circuit which will relatively slowly ramp up the current to the flasher bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If tomnexus would care to write up his comment as an answer, his should be given precedence over mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WhatRoughBeast" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T20:10:29.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19080" CreationDate="2015-08-02T09:56:22.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said, it has an electromechanical device for flashing. Maybe it's an relay that when turned off produces a spike (back EMF kick). Check if a freewheeling diode is installed (if possible) in parallel to relay's coil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the other lights are flashing with short but intense burst, then this EMF kickback is the reason, otherwise if flashing of other lights is following the flashing light then you have a volage drop: small cross sections of cables or simply the inverter can't deliver as much current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61542" OwnerDisplayName="Marko Buršič" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T10:05:37.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19080" CreationDate="2015-08-02T16:59:47.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could help the situation bu reducing the current spikes the other devices can see, they are obviously voltage sensitive so the dips are objectionable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First run independant wires for the flasher direct to the converter&#xA;terminals to avoid the other devices having to see the volt drop in the flashing circuit wiring after the converter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then get a jumbo sound system capacitor and place it at the flasher&#xA;unit location to supply the inrush current same as on a sound system bass unit&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider aternating the two flasher lamps by controlling a relay&#xA;coil with the flasher and using the NO, NC contacts to alternate the&#xA;load, current will be halved and will also be more constat as one&#xA;switches of as the other turns on with only the one inrush current&#xA;causing the voltage dip.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Specifying a next size up converter as this will have more muscle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rpai.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="KalleMP" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T16:59:47.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2015-08-03T19:33:46.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same thing just happened to my wife's 2005 Chrysler 300 LTD. Search a &quot;K39 Recall&quot;. Chrysler should fix for free!! (Aug. 2015)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11615" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T19:33:46.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T20:52:34.257" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Tucson 2011 directed injected diesel which has just broken down. What happened is that while driving the engine suddenly stopped and won't start.  There is no check engine light on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine just cranks but won't start at all. one mechanic told me its the diesel high pressure pump and another said its the capacitor for the pump but I can't find the capacitor I don't even know what it looks like ?? Can anyone point me in the right direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11616" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T21:09:39.340" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T21:09:39.340" Title="Hyundai Tucson died while driving; will not start" Tags="|hyundai|diesel|fuel-injection|tucson|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T22:21:18.483" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am relocating to Europe soon, and I'm pretty sure my new car would have OBD-II. Why is Automatic adamant their current product is for the US only? Is it a regulatory issue, or something technical which I don't see? The adapter sounds universal, Bluetooth and phones even more so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take my adapter and try it in Europe, it won't work, or it would break, or break my car? Or the phone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, there's the International Alpha program, I know: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.automatic.com/international/#alpha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.automatic.com/international/#alpha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:18:32.937" Title="linking a phone to a car via OBD-II and Bluetooth: Automatic (1st gen) in Europe" Tags="|obd-ii|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:49:25.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T23:30:19.167" Score="0" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking to buy my first car. I'm going to buy something used and have come across a dealership that sells previously leased cars. I've looked up reviews for this particular dealership and most are 4 stars or higher. The cars are pretty cheap, however most have been in a previous accident (I'm assuming that's why they're cheap) I have next to no knowledge of cars so I am going to take any potential purchases to an independent shop for an inspection. So my question is will any mechanical issues or potential mechanical issues be found by a mechanic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11618" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T10:16:17.233" Title="Will an inspection done by a certified mechanic reveal any and all damage done to a car that has been in a previous accident?" Tags="|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19087" CreationDate="2015-08-04T00:01:52.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding evidence of accident damage depends on the extent of the damage and the quality of the repair. You don't want to pass up a potential good deal just because it was in a minor accident as long as it was properly repaired.  If it was a minor accident and a fender was replaced and factory parts were used along with quality paint refinishing it might go unnoticed and not effect long term reliability. You want to avoid ones that have poorly repaired frame damage or salvage titles. Also the level of the inspection is directly related to how much time you are willing to pay for the mechanics time. If possible get a list of the things the mechanic will check and add any areas you have concerns about. Ask for an estimate of what they will charge for the repairs. You can take this information to the seller and use it as a bargaining point to lower the price. If the deal is good it may be worth paying $300 for a brake job after the sale if the car is selling for $1000 less than similar cars in your area. Many dealers in my area will include the state mandated inspection sticker in the price. I generally decline the sticker and have the inspection done independently.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T00:01:52.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T01:35:03.210" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an old auto 6 volt (generator/regulator) system, what causes the ammeter to fluctuate between zero and -35 amps? Seems acceptable at idle but fluctuates on the discharge side when driving.  Will occasionally zero out for a second, then begin fluctuating again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11620" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:48:36.163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:48:36.163" Title="Fluctuating amp meter on 1948 automobile" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|generator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19093" CreationDate="2015-08-04T03:06:49.460" Score="2" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2008 Ford Taurus X. In June, I had the rear rotors and pads replaced. They also had to replace the right rear caliper. Last week (less than 2,000 miles later) the left rear caliper started leaking. Took the car back to the Ford service center and they now have to replace the left rear caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 questions: &#xA;1. Could this problem really just come up in the past 6 weeks? (No accidents or emergency stops since the work done in June.) I feel like they should have noticed this ...&#xA;2. Is it reasonable for me to have to pay AGAIN for brake fluid system flush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11622" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T12:11:56.890" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T12:11:56.890" Title="caliper leaking..." Tags="|ford|brakes|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T03:54:40.343" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently made a post about a sound coming from the front end of my 2008 Chevrolet Malibu. The sound occurs when I accelerate fast or break harder. It also makes the noise when I go slowly over bumps. The other time it makes the sound is when I go around a corner and when I pull out of the turn and correct the steering. It seems to occur when I finish turning my steering wheel back into the correct position and accelerate out of the turn. The sound is only ever one &quot;clunk&quot;. I'm reposting because symptoms have changed a bit. I also want to point out the previous owner just had the CV Joints changed. My thoughts are leaning towards a ball joint. I would love someone's opinion before I take it to a mechanic and I can get some ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11348" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T03:54:40.343" Title="Clunking Sound in 2008 Chevrolet Malibu" Tags="|chevrolet|noise|malibu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-07T18:55:42.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T08:07:07.627" Score="4" ViewCount="5688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a C4 Grand Picasso, love the car, super practical and comfy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electronic dashboard is working fine, but the multi-function screen portion is completely blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a speedo, rev counter, fuel gauge etc and althought the radio/cd player works I don't get anything up on the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also means I can't adjust any of the electronic settings (so the Auto Electronic Parking brake is stuck off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the screen one unit or two? Am I going to have to replace the whole thing, or could it be a cable internally, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WmHKG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WmHKG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The yellow inner screen is completely blank on mine - it&amp;#39;s not yellow either just dull grey&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2097" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T13:49:24.847" Title="Citroen C4 Grand Picasso 2007 Multi Function Screen C failed" Tags="|citroen|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19090" CreationDate="2015-08-04T09:36:55.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the question you are asking is &quot;could this have failed in the last six weeks?&quot; then the answer is &quot;Yes&quot;, it sounds like that is exactly what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a train of thought that both calipers have done the exact same amount of service and if one was replaced it would be logical that the other would need replacement soon.  Replacing calipers are a precautionary measure however, is an expensive business as it's hard to say for certain when they will fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are replacing the caliper you can not do with without opening up the hydraulics for the braking system so part of the job will be to flush (or bleed) the system otherwise air may become trapped and you'll get a spongy brake pedal or even brake failure.  I'm unsure why you're asking if it's reasonable to pay for this work again as it is part of the job in replacement of the leaking caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T09:36:55.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19087" CreationDate="2015-08-04T10:16:17.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are asking if the mechanic will spot all mechanical issues with the car or any potential mechanical issues then you may have to adjust your expectations.  A component can appear fine one day and pass inspection only to fail the next day.  In this circumstance the only way you would have recourse against the mechanic who inspected the car for you would be if they are willing to guarantee their inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanics are only human beings and may miss things.  They also may only be able to inspect components based on the tools, methods and time available to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, what a professional will give you is a far better feel for the overall condition of the vehicle.  Also, if they do spot something then you can have the seller repair it prior to buying the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T10:16:17.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19089" CreationDate="2015-08-04T11:02:56.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stinsonclub.org/PublicTech/YahooGroup/DC%20generator%20theory.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this write-up&lt;/a&gt;, that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... at higher engine speeds the output of the generator will actually drop off quite a bit, as the brushes are lifted off of the armature by centrifugal force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this write-up they were suggesting an engine speed of above 3500rpm. If this is occurring at engine speeds lower than that, it could be that the springs which hold the brushes are worn out and lifting prematurely. You may just need to replace the springs/brushes and give your generator a tune-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T11:02:56.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19092" CreationDate="2015-08-04T12:59:20.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadtestreports.co.uk/qanda/63476/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; say that you may have some success pressing the button at the end of the wiper stalk or on the dash next to the display.  I'd be inclined to take it back to the dealership you purchased it from, unless it's a private seller in which case this could be the reason the car was up for sale in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T12:59:20.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19098" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:32:54.463" Score="3" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;shortblock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;longblock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both terms are used to refer to the engine, but what's the difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:28:15.963" Title="Shortblock vs Longblock" Tags="|engine|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19097" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:47:25.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;short block = block + rotating assembly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;long block = short block + heads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking &lt;em&gt;short&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; block, you are suggesting the &lt;em&gt;completeness&lt;/em&gt; of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, a short block will consist of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotating assembly&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting Rods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pistons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearings (both rod and main)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freeze plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is an Overhead Valve (OHV) engine (ie: push rod engine) it will also include the timing chain and cam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long block consists of a short block, plus include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heads&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head casting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Springs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retainers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keepers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push rods (if OHV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the long block is of an Overhead Cam (OHC) configuration it will also include the timing chain/belt, and cam shaft(s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is a &lt;em&gt;general rule of thumb&lt;/em&gt;, as some engine rebuilders may consider things differently. Always confer with your engine builder to ensure you are getting what you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you are getting. Also, everything above also assumes the fasteners, such as if you have heads on the engine, it will include the head bolts. If you have the main caps on the block, it includes the main bolts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T16:28:15.963" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:28:15.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19101" CreationDate="2015-08-04T19:38:08.410" Score="4" ViewCount="6593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/125/reviving-a-vehicle-that-has-been-idle-for-a-long-time&quot;&gt;Reviving a vehicle that has been idle for a long time&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car has not been started for over 2 years.  No fuel stabilizer was added to the tank.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=23&amp;amp;t=77905&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some sources&lt;/a&gt; it's best to drain the gas and put in a fresh tank before starting it, because the gas will have gone bad and can damage the fuel injectors or other parts of the engine.  This seemed quite reasonable to me, but two different dealerships have said that this step is unnecessary.  Is this bad advice from the dealerships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T22:25:56.573" Title="Necessity of draining gas for a vehicle that has been sitting for 2-3 years" Tags="|parking|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19099" CreationDate="2015-08-04T20:43:41.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they say it is unnecessary, I'd put them in the &lt;em&gt;complete idiot&lt;/em&gt; category. Will the car run? Most probably, but it has a large propensity to cause issues down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, there are some caveats we could talk about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the car prepped to stand that long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the car was filled to the gills with gas, then had 2x Stabil put into the tank with the gas cap on the entire time, you'd probably be okay to leave the gas in the car and run it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the car only had a small amount of gas (say 1 gallon in a 16+ gallon tank), you can probably get away with it by filling the car up with fresh fuel all the way. This will dilute the fuel which was in the tank and make it not so toxic to the bits and pieces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gas is a highly refined substance. One of the issues it faces is oxidation. You can note if your gas is oxidized by looking at it in a clear container. You'll see it has turned an amber color when oxidized, as fresh fuel should be &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; completely clear. Oxidized gas can cause varnish and deposits which can cause clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with today's gas is that it has ethanol in it (at least in the US). Your everyday fuel has 10%. Ethanol attracts and absorbs water. This water causes issues with rust inside your fuel tank, which will cause small metal particulates to slough off and plug the fuel filters. Not prepping the gas to be in the car for a while is what causes the issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both of these cases, filling the tank all the way and putting fuel stabilizer into the fuel will help prevent the issues in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most of the advice which was given in the link you posted is fairly sound. It makes sense to get your engine right after treating it so wrong for 2-3 years. For further reading, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnn.com/2008/LIVING/wayoflife/04/09/aa.bad.gas/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article from CNN&lt;/a&gt; has some pretty decent information in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T20:43:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T23:42:34.013" Score="4" ViewCount="13858" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is in general terms... But say you have a flat battery and you wanted to start a car without another card battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car batteries are 12V but I'm not sure how much current they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they need about 3000W for starting? (About 250 amps?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the amperage drop when running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the amperage change (when running) depending on lights/wipers/sound system usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to jump start a car, I'd need at least a source of 3000W, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to charge a car with a source less than 3000W (Say, 300W [12V, 25A] supply) it would need to &lt;strong&gt;charge&lt;/strong&gt; for a few hours, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11629" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T09:03:09.650" Title="How much amperage is an average car battery?" Tags="|battery|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19204" CreationDate="2015-08-04T23:55:26.990" Score="4" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford Focus had an evaporator core leak, so the DIY hobbyist in me took apart the instrument panel, dashboard and finally, replaced the evaporator core. I'm on my way putting parts back together. I've more or less put together the dash and instrument panel and the only part that's left undone is the gearshift (yes I took the gear shift out in the process :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm faced with a dilemma, I have a mystery wiring harness underneath the gearshift( please see the picture attached). The big arrow shows where the harness for the gearshift should go (to the male connector behind the gear shift). The arrow with a question mark is pointing to the mystery harness which I don't know where to plug into. I've looked very carefully underneath the gearshift, but did not find a matching male connector. I know that harness as the Traction Control Switch Wiring Harness. This is as far as I went, I have no idea where this female Traction Control Switch Wiring Harness should go. I'd really appreciate it if someone can drop me a hint. Thank you very much for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idANy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idANy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastEditorUserId="2483" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T20:43:45.467" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:16:05.370" Title="Mystery wiring harness underneath the gearshift on a 2004 Ford Focus" Tags="|electrical|ford|wiring|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11624" CreationDate="2015-08-05T00:53:16.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you must use household products, the least aggressive I've found is good old baking soda. It's just gritty enough to &quot;sand&quot; off the buildup inside the radiator and, unlike vinegar, when mixed with water, baking soda increases in volume to get into all the voids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11630" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T00:53:16.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6226" CreationDate="2015-08-05T01:36:59.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can dinghy tow an Outback or Forester behind a motorhome if these conditions are satisfied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Subaru is a Manual Transmission model; &lt;strong&gt;No automatic transmission subaru should ever be dinghy towed with wheels down!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the gray &quot;Valet&quot; key to unlock the steering wheel. This is the first click past the &quot;OFF&quot; position. In this position, the steering wheel lock is disengaged, but the radio, power sockets, and dashboard clock will still be &quot;off&quot;. The second click of the key turns on the Accessories (radio, clock, etc). You don't want to use this key position because it will drain the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your primary key, the black one with the push buttons, with you and use it to lock the vehicle's doors and rear hatch. If you don't have a grey &quot;Valet&quot; key, you can get one from a Subie dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the Subaru's electronic parking brake is fully disengaged before you take off!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11631" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T08:30:42.537" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T08:30:42.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T03:40:22.960" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using this motor in a small pit bike. And was wondering why there was 2 oil spots. I was told on is for the motor oil and one is a white merky fluid but dont know what to look for. Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11632" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T23:05:54.647" Title="I have a small 196cc 6.5 horse power engine" Tags="|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19102" CreationDate="2015-08-05T08:13:10.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do they need about 3000W for starting? (About 250 amps?)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;250 A is on the low side according to the Bosch Automotive Handbook (8th edition), which indicates that the primary current of the engine starter can be as high as 1000 A for passenger cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from the book (emphasis my own):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The relay current (approx. 30 A for passenger cars to approx. 70 A for commercial vehicles) generates power in the relay. This pushes the pinion toward the engine-flywheel ring gear and activates the starter primary current (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;200 - 1,000 A for passenger cars&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, approx. 2,000 A for commercial vehicles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the amperage drop when running?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, another quote from the Bosch book indicates a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; current draw of around 170 A on a passenger vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The total output power of all instaled electrical equipment, which draws electrical energy from the battery for several minutes at a time, often exceeds 2 kW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the amperage change (when running) depending on lights/wipers/sound system usage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I wanted to charge a car with a source less than 3000W (Say, 300W [12V, 25A] supply) it would need to charge for a few hours, correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to replenish is the &lt;em&gt;charge&lt;/em&gt; lost in the starting device. A starting device which delivers an average 300 A for 5 seconds loses 1500 coulombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My EE is a little rusty, but how long that takes should be a function of the charge lost, source power rating and supply voltage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = V * I&#xA;Power = V * Q / t&#xA;t = Voltage * Q / Power&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you had a constant 300 W, 12 V supply it would take you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;t = 12 * 1500 / 300 = 60 s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T09:03:09.650" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T09:03:09.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T10:32:10.187" Score="33" ViewCount="81716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheap (sub $10) ELM 327 Bluetooth clone OBD-2 diagnostic adapter on a local &quot;ebay-style&quot; market where the seller specializes in car diagnostics and has several thousand positive reviews (read: I guess this seller would not provide anything really harmful). The adapter is labeled with an &quot;ELM327 v1.4&quot; sticker and the device identifies itself as an &quot;ELM 327 v1.5&quot; over serial. I know v1.5 does not officially exist in the original ELM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adapter was able to pair with a European 2006 Volvo XC90. I ran through a few free diagnostic apps (namely 5 of them: Torque free, OBD Car Doctor free, DashCommand, ScanMaster and OBD Auto Doctor) while some of the apps connected to the car successfully to show OBD info, some could not connect. I was using the diagnostics for about 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few hours later, the car had problems with starting the engine - a kind of &quot;engine error&quot; light flashed on the dashboard, but the car computer (the text display) did not display any problem. The car did not start on the first attempt but it did on the fourth. There was also low fuel in the tank which could have caused the bad start but probably not the &quot;engine error&quot; light (this light then disappeared).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple - can there be harm caused to any car or its electronics in general by using the OBD-2 diagnostic port? I know one can also write messages to the CAN bus with it but I have no idea what consequences some bad writes can have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo of the adapter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k08gK.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k08gK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of Bluetooth adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking on 2 levels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can harm be done via OBD in general (with any equipment/scanner etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can harm be done with the ELM 327 clone device I used?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for engine starting problems was low fuel. More fuel was tanked and now the car starts without problems again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T21:52:29.347" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T20:43:39.637" Title="Can a vehicle be harmed with bad inputs via an OBD-2 port?" Tags="|obd-ii|volvo|can-bus|scan-tool|elm-327|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19109" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:00:28.467" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge there is no way a scanner can cause issues with your computer electronics. This device is a read only device. It doesn't &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; anything in your computer. It does, however, communicate with the computer. Through this communication it can give the computer commands, such as to clear the codes. This doesn't write anything to the computer, but rather instructs the computer what to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your issue lies with the gas at the bottom of the tank vs. the new scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Because you updated your question, I'll update my answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Can harm be done via OBD in general (with any equipment/scanner etc.)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely.&lt;/strong&gt; If you hook a welder up and juice the PCM through the OBD with a gagillion amps, &lt;em&gt;you will fry the electronics of the PCM through the OBD port&lt;/em&gt;. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Would you do this?&lt;/em&gt; Probably not on purpose, but it is possible.) If you use a tool to remap the fuel curves within the PCM and pull the cable before the entire remap is written, you will cause damage to the PCM. There are probably a &lt;em&gt;million&lt;/em&gt; (on the conservative side) different ways you could &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; damage your PCM or anything on the CAN Bus electronically through the OBD port. The probability of it happening depends on what you are doing and how you are doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Can harm be done with the ELM 327 clone device I used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; cause harm, but the &lt;em&gt;probability&lt;/em&gt; of this happening is remote. I'm sure there are about a 100,000 of these devices being used out there, by whatever manufacturer. It is &lt;em&gt;meant&lt;/em&gt; as a read-only (meaning, it will communicate with the PCM and read parameters) device, not as a device used to reprogram the PCM or other components which ride on the CAN Bus. Could someone utilize this device in such a manner? Yes, no doubt. If you are using the device as prescribed, you have not done any tampering, and you are utilizing the device programming as provided, the chances of anything happening to your PCM or other electronic devices on the CAN Bus are &lt;em&gt;extremely remote&lt;/em&gt;. When I say &lt;em&gt;extremely remote&lt;/em&gt; I mean the chances are just above nil. If it were to electronically short circuit, anything is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T15:02:30.687" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T15:02:30.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19109" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:02:12.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool in and of itself cannot do any &quot;harm&quot; to the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were testing apps with the engine off, it is quite possible that the battery may have drained to the extent that it gave some hiccups while starting. Low fuel level may also be to blame here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;However,&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has error codes present which are cleared with the tool, the vehicle's behavior can change and bring up symptoms that were not experienced before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the fault of the scanner since the person operating the tool has to make a call. The scanner is simply the means to achieve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:02:12.097" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:08:31.667" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to tell engine size of a BMW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only buy cars a 1.9 litre or smaller engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11636" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:18:23.497" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:18:23.497" Title="BMW 320d es auto engine size" Tags="|engine|320d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19109" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:10:35.173" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is highly probable that the reason your car was reluctant to start was that the time you were running diagnostics had sapped some of the charge from the battery.  The battery on the car will not charge unless the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that this device would harm your vehicle but it is theoretically (and practically) possible to do temporary or permanent damage; here are some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With certain generic OBD-II port reader dongles plugged into the diagnostic port of the Ferrari 430, the Traction Control System goes offline.  This was noticed at a track day by an owner who was using a bluetooth OBD-II dongle for logging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Volkswagen Immo3 security system, new keys are added using a piece of software called Vagtacho.  This software uses the OBD-II interface to connect to the instrument cluster and add new transponder codes.  This software also allows features such as illuminated dials to be enabled.  It works be reading the complete e-prom of the cluster and allows users to poke new values into this data extract then upload it over the top of the existing e-prom.  It is possible to do real damage to a car if you get this wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in theory, if one of the applications you used with this device tried to perform an unsupported operation which the car misunderstood, you could damage the car.  However, this is incredibly unlikely to happen given the activities you have described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:10:35.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19112" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:14:27.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With BMW's it used to be that the last two numbers represented the engine size.  Sadly on newer cars this seems to have been abandoned so it is no longer a valid way to tell.  You'll have to do some research based not only on the model but also the year the car was manufactured.  This information is generally available in publications such as Parkers or Glasses Guide in the UK.  I'm sure there will be equivalent publications available locally or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:14:27.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19112" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:17:12.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_%28E90%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wiki article&lt;/a&gt;, all of the 320d's are 2L engines. &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.bmw.co.uk/bmwuk/pricesandspecifications_technical_specs/0,,1156_181265620__bs-Mw%3D%3D%40bb-RjMw%40bm-WjNBSQ%3D%3D,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMW&lt;/a&gt; shows them to be 1995cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:17:12.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18075" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:17:15.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be perished radiator caps. I replaced both and the problem went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:17:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19103" CreationDate="2015-08-05T14:33:14.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a wiring diagram for the car? A Haynes manual or similar would have one - then you can try and identify the wires by the colour codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it might be a silly question, but do you actually remember disconnecting it from something when you removed the console? It might be for something that isn't actually fitted to your car, as manufacturers use standard looms and it is surprisingly common to find wires that don't actually go anywhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:33:14.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2015-08-05T14:38:19.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This oil leak is common to the Taurus/Sable, Fusion/Milan, Jaguar S, Lincoln LS, and Mazda 6 models with the 3.0 Duratec V6 along with the Escape/MPV.  As a mechanic I can't see doing what is involved to remove the timing chain cover on these vehicles as it would cost a good portion of what many of these now older cars that have the leak are worth. They sealed small areas of the timing cover where castings mate called &quot;T&quot; joints with RTV sealant when the engines were made, and used a multi-piece gasket. The gaskets tend to shrink and the RTV deteriorates with heat/cooling cycles over the years and small oil leaks develop. They run down the engine on to the bottom front of the oil pan and drip on to the hot exhaust pipes below it. Leaks can also develop between the upper section of the block and the lower bearing section, which was sealed with a film of RTV only at manufacture. I have found that changing the oil with 5 quarts of high mileage oil and adding 1 quart of Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak dramatically reduces the amount of oil leakage on these engines. The caveat is you have to do this for every oil change, but it's still no comparison in cost to having the gaskets replaced, which can cost anywhere from $1500-2000 today.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11638" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:38:19.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19123" CreationDate="2015-08-05T14:39:32.363" Score="3" ViewCount="2367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently used some siphon tubing to remove some oil from my engine. This worked great until I realized I wasn't sure how I could clean the tube for reuse as I don't want to use a siphon tube that has old oil in it, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of spraying brakes cleaner down the tube to remove the oil, but then I wasn't sure how I could remove the brakes cleaner from the tube after that without just rinsing it with water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard it's okay to use brakes cleaner to clean out oil filter housings, but accidently mixing brake cleaner with oil doesn't sound like a good idea to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some suggestions or advice as to wether I am thinking too much into this or what is best to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6471" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T21:48:27.657" Title="Cleaning Oil Siphon Tube with Brake Cleaner? (Is brake cleaner oil-safe?)" Tags="|oil|brake-cleaner|chemicals|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T14:56:06.170" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Mustang V6. Last winter I attempted to get it out of the snow on an inclined driveway. I revved it apparently too hard and the engine sputtered for a moment and stopped. Since then it has not turned over. I get a good crank but it just doesn't seem to want to turn over. I have looked up some possible answers online and was directed to a possible &quot;Emergency&quot; fuel line switch that may have popped when i pushed the car over the limits but I can't seem to find it (if it even exists). Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11639" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T08:42:13.177" Title="Car wont turn over after trying to get it out of snow" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19120" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:01:21.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the fuel injection cut off switch is located under the front passenger seat but on your specific car it appears to be located in the drivers side of the trunk behind an access panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More vehicle specific information &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20121130055352AAEw0yV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T15:01:21.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19124" CreationDate="2015-08-05T16:25:34.570" Score="4" ViewCount="2248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my -97 Civic two weeks ago. After a week of driving, the power steering started to screech whenever I turned the wheels while the engine was cold (with warm engine the eerie screeching sound was gone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally I checked the fluids, and steering fluid was below minimum. After adding steering fluid, I noticed that the fuild leaks somewhere below the right hydraulic cylinder. I also noted that the old fluid had burnt odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does an amateur have any chance of locating the leak without a car lift? Whether a lift is needed or not, what are the most common places in Civic where steering fluid leaks occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: the steering wheel turns well when the power steering screeches, so the mechanics seem to work, even with minimal amounts of fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11474" LastEditorUserId="11474" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T16:53:46.313" LastActivityDate="2022-04-25T15:15:08.267" Title="Honda Civic 1997 steering fluid leak" Tags="|honda|civic|power-steering|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19119" CreationDate="2015-08-05T16:26:18.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Zaid stated in his comment, brake cleaner is volatile and leaves little to no residue behind ... it's how it's designed to work. The only fear I'd have is if the brake cleaner might degrade the siphon tube over time, but then oil itself may have a caustic affect on the tube as well, depending on what it's made out of. In my approximation, if you have no fear of using it for oil, brake cleaning fluid would be a great way of getting it clean between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:26:18.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19122" CreationDate="2015-08-05T17:26:27.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screech is from the tension on the belt being too low. Usually it's a worn belt or the pump slipping. On my 2002 civic I am pretty sure the power steering belt was separate from the serpentine and that the pump is also acting as a tensioner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the leak, check the connections to and from the pump. There should be an o-ring underneath the connector on the top of the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qP9aF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qP9aF.png&quot; alt=&quot;power steering diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario you will be rebuilding or replacing the pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T17:26:27.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2015-08-05T18:12:56.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;actually you will read only the first 2 digits from this code &quot;G5B6882230170&quot; first digit means the month starting with A -&gt; January and ending with L or M (as some of the manufacturers omit the letter I) for December and the second one &quot;5&quot; is the year of production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11640" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T18:12:56.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19142" CreationDate="2015-08-05T18:44:39.280" Score="3" ViewCount="32535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that cowl hoods used to be the method for air induction for older vehicles with carburetors and that the only purpose they serve for vehicles with fuel injection is for looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I hear quite a few people (especially Cherokee owners) say they help keep the engine cool, too.  Is this true or does a cowl hood make any significant difference in engine temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="11339" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T11:13:59.820" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:13:59.820" Title="Do cowl hoods actually help with engine cooling?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:03:02.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any radiator needs air going through the radiator fins to exchange heat and cool it down and its fluids that runs in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cowl hood directs air to the radiator (engine radiator, oil radiator, intercooler, etc) or to a part with fins (ex: some oil pans has fins on it to help cool the oil) and are the main source of air flow, then the cowl hood helps cooling the system. If not, they are only for looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11171" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:03:02.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18931" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:35:55.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear there is a lot that could be wrong with this car. For starters when you took apart the front brakes and replaced the side pins and lubricated them did you check that the piston was able to be pushed back into the caliper? Have you tried bleeding the brakes? Could be that a hose or line is screwed up causing pressure to be applied even when you are not applying the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it pulses are you feeling it in your seat or the pedal? If felt in the seat its the rear brakes, if felt in the pedal its the front brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rotors were not replaced when you replaced the pads you will most likely have a problem, brake pads need to be bedded into new surfaces, so if the rotor wasn't turned on a lathe probably another problem area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A true way to eliminate wheel bearings is when driving 50 miles an hour with the windows closed and radio off start to steer left to right slightly and listen for any noise difference. In order for this to work properly you will need to have good tires, with no cupping. If when steering to the left you hear more noise you have a bad RIGHT wheel bearing, and the opposite is true for when steering to the right you have a bad Left wheel bearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11643" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:35:55.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19141" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:37:11.650" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a new one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three times in the past week, the wipers have randomly turned themselves on. Each time turning the switch on and back off has fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen anything else indicative of an electrical problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? It's a 10 year-old car, but it seems odd that the switch would just give up the ghost when it hasn't been used in a month. (Dallas - rain is only a fond, distant memory.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I got stuck in Dallas traffic and the car started to overheat (around 220F). The car died - I'm guessing the computer shut it off to prevent damage, but that's just a guess. I let it cool off for awhile, ran the heater full blast, and got it back down to about 180. I then drove it to the closest gas station. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked the oil, nothing on the stick. I had to add 3.5 quarts to get it back to a normal level. (Added a quart, let it run for a minute, checked. Repeated until it got back to normal.) Capacity for this engine is about 5 quarts (ECOTEC 2.4L, LE5). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant level was normal, but I don't think the radiator fan is turning on. Driving back home, the car died on the side of the road again. That time, it wasn't that hot - about 200F. It would start and run for about 30 seconds, then shut itself off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the car towed home. This morning, I checked all the fluids again and everything seems normal. Now, it starts fine and continues to run as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an electrical problem. I'm wondering if oil getting thrown around the engine bay has caused a short. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now looking for a mechanic in the north DFW area that will work on modified cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T00:23:58.097" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T00:23:58.097" Title="2006 Pontiac Solstice - Wipers turn on by themselves" Tags="|electrical|pontiac|windshield-wipers|solstice-of-sorrow|solstice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:39:04.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the wipers turn on do they always turn on at the same rate? try changing the intermittent speed level if so equipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11643" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:39:04.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:44:59.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you with certainty that there is no white merky fluid that ever goes into a motor. Usually merky white fluid is a sign of condensation mixed in with engine oil. As far as two yellow plugs I'm only seeing one on my google image search which is your engine oil fill plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11643" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:44:59.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16712" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:38:51.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to look at all parts and how they work.&#xA;MAF- uses two different sensors to regulate how much fuel goes into the motor based on the TEMPERATURE and AMOUNT of air going to the motor.&#xA;MAP- only measures pressure not the temperature. This is pulled from the IAT which measures intake air temperature.&#xA;That being said how a MAP based system determines the fuel amount is a speed density program, which uses MAP IAT and O2 sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this being said it could be done, just not real reason or easy way to do it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11643" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T20:38:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2015-08-05T21:13:57.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hood cowls can help engine cooling when properly designed. But this is not something most drivers will ever need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most vehicles, cold air is ingested into the radiator at the front of the vehicle. The now warmer air is then passed along the engine block (not a great design, by the way), and then exits mostly low down underneath the chassis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fine in most operating conditions, but not in two specific cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for vehicles with engines that produce a great amount of heat, because they are being pushed a great deal more than they would in ordinary use;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for vehicles that are going slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first case concerns sports cars, or cars that are used in sporting events. The solution is to give the hot air inside the engine compartment somewhere to go, so here is where side vents come into use. Hood cowls, facing incoming airflow, also give the engine block access to cool air that (a) bypasses the radiator and (b) is forced inside by dynamic pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions include siting the radiator in some more sensible position than just in front of the engine, for example in the rear of the vehicle (which is then not covered by roofing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second case -going slow- is often found in four-wheel drives, for example when going rock-crawling. The combination of slow speed (low airflow) and increased heat production (revving the engine to get over multiple obstacles) make overheating a possibility. This is where hood cowls, louvers, or in fact any opening in the hood is a definite advantage. Since hot air likes to go straight up, so let it. This explains your Cherokee drivers' comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also explains why there are after-market replacement hoods for vehicles that need to go slowly in hot conditions, containing extraction louvers. As @Paulster2 correctly points out in his answer, these are located to the front of the hood, to avoid the local high air pressure at the base of the windscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kabuN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kabuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AEV Heat Reduction Hood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;AEV Heat Reduction Hood, Photo credit: Quadratec, www.quadratec.com&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: two use cases, two different types of problem sets, and two different ways of solving it. However, it is safe to say that anything that helps get calories out of the engine compartment is welcome on a high-output engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a standard, non-tuned, engine has been designed with this in mind. Engineers have more surely set it up to cool correctly in a whole range of situations - those found in normal driving conditions. They will even have taken steps to ensure it does not immediately heat too far up when stuck in urban driving in hot weather conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="10708" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T08:56:00.070" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T08:56:00.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15683" CreationDate="2015-08-05T21:23:43.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that this is intermittent and that multiple windows are failing leads me to believe this is a break in the wiring inside the 'flex tube' between the door and the vehicle body. After thousands (if not millions) of times being bent back and forth with door openings, wire(s) inside the tube break. Closing/opening the door readjusts the break so sometimes there is a conductive path and other times not. You can test this by moving the window up and down while opening/closing the door slowly to see if this causes any interruption. If so, you'll need to replace/repair the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT-&#xA;I'll also add that most window wiring schemes have the power routing through the drivers switch panel first, then running to each individual window. This explains how multiple windows could be affected by only one section of wiring being broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T20:18:33.097" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:18:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19119" CreationDate="2015-08-05T21:48:27.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that it helps you now, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you did this because the oil was over-full. An easier way to fix this in the future is to remove the oil filler cap and place the hose of a running vacuum cleaner or shop vac over it. This creates lower pressure in the crankcase, allowing you to remove the drain plug and have little/no oil come out. Then remove the vacuum and allow some oil to flow out. After you think enough has drained out, put the vacuum hose back in place to stop the flow and reinstall the drain plug. No mess and simple to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T21:48:27.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19139" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:12:41.977" Score="2" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the trunk weatherstrip on my 1999 Civic coupe because the old one was rotting, rain was getting into the trunk, and I'm pretty sure that was the culprit. The replacement weatherstrip is a Metro brand, and instead of one continuous closed loop, it is an open &quot;length&quot; of strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link provided:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partstrain.com/store/?N=0&amp;amp;src=search&amp;amp;Ntt=M71TK70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.partstrain.com/store/?N=0&amp;amp;src=search&amp;amp;Ntt=M71TK70&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must not have been tugging enough while fitting the thing onto the metal lip of the trunk, because when I finished the job, there was about half an inch gap between the two ends of the weatherstrip. &lt;strong&gt;The gap is at the bottom center of the trunk, near the latch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it harmful to have such a gap?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't imagine much water will get up through the gap, but since my goal in doing this was to stop water getting in the trunk, it would be silly to leave it as-is if this won't fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11644" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:22:49.627" Title="Is It Harmful to Have a Small Gap at the Bottom of Trunk Weatherstrip?" Tags="|honda|accord|water-leak|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:21:56.743" Score="3" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car is driving me absolutely batty. I have never had any problems with it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I drove my car to Vegas airport from Orange County (about 4 hr drive) and my car died on me 6 times when overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had just changed the thermostat earlier that week. Car doesn't seem to like stop and go traffic much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We took it to a shop near my mothers and all's he did was change the thermostat and put in new fluid. He said my fan was working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked my car up after hours and the gas pedal seems seated different. Turns out I was able to drive my car 10 miles without touching the gas pedal once. What the heck. ? . Got my car back in worse shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had to leave for home but only made it halfway. My brother’s friend took a look at it and noticed that a piece was broken. DPFE sensor and we replaced it. Also replaced EGR and ISC or ICS sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since getting it back from repair shop it had high RPMs so when I put it into drive from park it lunges forward. Now my hood is dented from it hitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11645" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T22:33:24.453" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:40:16.633" Title="1995 Mercury Sable 3.8l - 2300rpm at Starting Of Engine but Will Not Fall Below 1500rpms" Tags="|overheating|idle|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19137" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:22:49.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is not imperative that it is completely flush together, it will make a difference. You will have a leak possibility there. This is the reason you replaced the weather stripping in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is stretch the weather stripping down on both sides so it will come together in the middle. If you start at dead center on the top and work outwards on both sides, you should be able to stretch it just a little bit around until it comes together at the bottom. When you get to the bottom, use some weather strip adhesive and glue the two ends together so everything is even and sealed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is &lt;em&gt;absolutely no way&lt;/em&gt; for you to stretch the seal even that little bit, what you may be able to do is find a &lt;em&gt;good spot&lt;/em&gt; in the old seal, cut out what you need, and fill the gap. Again using weather strip adhesive to glue the ends together to seal it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:22:49.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19138" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:40:16.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check is to see if the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is working correctly. Do this by unplugging it while the engine is running. If it is good, the idle will drop (you should hear a definite difference). If it does nothing, you'll need to replace it. The IAC can be found on this image ... It's just above the throttle body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnR7E.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnR7E.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:40:16.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19129" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:58:44.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the electronics on your wiper motor has gone bad (or is going bad). The switch in the cockpit is there to instruct the wiper electronics what your intention is. When you turn the wiper on, it commands the motor to do its thing. If the wipers are coming on of their own volition, it's because the electronics are telling the motor to come on. This would be very hard to diagnose, other than to replace the wiper motor (unless you are an electronics expert and can trace it down ... which I'm not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not telling you to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; track down the wiring, as @GrantJones has suggested (quite the opposite, in fact). I'm all for troubleshooting everything possible prior to part replacement. It's just this is what your description is telling me. You could possibly pull the wiper motor out, take the covers off of the electronics and see if you can find anything pointing towards damage (corrosion; burnt circuitry, resistors, or &lt;em&gt;bits-n-pieces&lt;/em&gt;; bad connections). If you find anything out of place, you'll know for sure this is where the trouble lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:58:44.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2015-08-06T00:35:13.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I won't say a cowl was &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; used for cooling the engine bay (I'm sure &lt;em&gt;someone&lt;/em&gt; has done that), it really won't do much for cooling (as in to draw air out from and engine bay) and here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your vehicle is travelling down the road the air travelling around different parts of the vehicle creates high pressure areas. The two biggest of these are the front end (grill area) and the windshield. The base of the windshield especially, because this is where the air starts to make its turn upward to go over the top of the car. Because of this, there is basically &lt;em&gt;no way&lt;/em&gt; for there to be any heat extraction from this area. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, however, draw air into the engine from there. This high pressure area not only provides a source of denser air, it also provides &lt;em&gt;cooler&lt;/em&gt; air, all of which helps produce horsepower. This was GM's theory behind the Chevelle Cowl Induction hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQHal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQHal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main purposes for a cowl hood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide clearance for under hood engine parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To locate a source of cold air for the intake at the base of the hood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a manufacturer has wanted cooling effects from the hood area, they will usually use an extractor to do this. Heat extractors work by using the venturi principle, where the air is sped up over a lip and when it gets over the lip, it slows down and creates an slight vacuum at the port, which pulls air out from under the hood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeCMc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeCMc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T00:35:13.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2015-08-06T03:28:18.407" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid revises rubber to its elasticity. Use sparingly on door seals so as not to get on you clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11650" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T03:28:18.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T04:35:51.953" Score="2" ViewCount="2920" Body="&lt;p&gt;After several months of looking for issues in my car, I have finally fixed most of them, except for the &quot;catalytic converter&quot; light and the sudden  shut off of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I turned on the car while being completely cool and it turned on perfectly fine. It was running well until it reached about 90° C (the needle was in the exact middle of the display) and as soon as the cooling fan turned on, the car shut off. I then tried to turn it on again but as soon as it turned on, it shut off again. I then tried to accelerate a little bit right after turning it on and it managed to stay running a few more minutes before shutting off itself again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? I have replaced all the oil, coolant liquid, spark plugs and filters with new ones and this is the only issue that's left. Some people even told me that it was just a matter of &quot;ressetting&quot; the &quot;sensors&quot; with a scanner but what do you think? will this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Chevrolet (not Opel) Corsa 2002 made in Germany and bought in Mexico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9866/gas-pedal-not-responding&quot;&gt;Gas pedal not responding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5130" LastEditorUserId="5130" LastEditDate="2019-09-22T19:28:55.833" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T19:28:55.833" Title="Car shuts off right after cooling fan turns on" Tags="|chevrolet|overheating|temperature|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6226" CreationDate="2015-08-06T11:08:38.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I stated in my comment, if you are able to safely let the car idle i.e. the problem isn't your headgasket, ringlands or a burst radiator, you can tow the car with the engine running and someone behind the wheel. From a mechanical perspective this is no different than coasting. I believe the danger with towing the car with the wheels down is that you don't have adequate circulation of your oil to keep the transmission cool. Having the car running will make it safe(r) to tow. A nice bonus is that if you're using a rope to tow the car, the guy steering will have the powersteering active and make his life much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't go fast and try and keep it as short as possible. I would say go 5 miles, then stop and wait 10 minutes. Repeat until you reach where you're going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:08:38.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19148" CreationDate="2015-08-06T11:26:33.310" Score="1" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;If compare Toyota same models from &lt;strong&gt;toyota.com (US)&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;toyota-europe.com (Europe)&lt;/strong&gt; websites the models are a little bit different in design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder why Toyota makes different cars of the same model because I think US versions are more beautiful than European models but for people who live in Europe it is a little bit problematic to buy a car in US and import it in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11058" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:28:37.577" Title="Why is American Toyota cars design different from European Toyota cars?" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19147" CreationDate="2015-08-06T11:28:37.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers make localised modifications to comply with local regulations or simply expected model specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Volkswagen scene there is a big market in exporting EU parts to the US in exchange from US parts shipped back to the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:28:37.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19145" CreationDate="2015-08-06T11:32:55.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My money is on a bad earth that's killing the low tension side of the coil when the fan gets power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wiring security and for breaks in the wiring insulation.  Also check that the earth points look healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:32:55.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T12:03:03.603" Score="5" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the effect on car fuel consumption of having a roof or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it may depend on the car model, but generally, considering common commercial cars, which setting saves more fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11654" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T20:24:19.180" Title="For 2 identical car models, 1 being cabriolet, which consumes less fuel?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19150" CreationDate="2015-08-06T12:09:05.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically if you're doing any kind of speed, roof up with be more aerodynamically economical although I personally didn't notice much difference on either of mine.  That said, I didn't pay much attention to fuel consumption in either of those cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:09:05.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2015-08-06T12:14:52.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Paulster2 is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/17836/675&quot;&gt;spot on&lt;/a&gt;. The AC clutch has to be engaged in order to set the correct baseline for high-side/low-side refigerant pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add one point here that is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;often overlooked&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;ideal&lt;/em&gt; thing to do is find out the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;mass&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of refrigerant that is required to fully charge the system, because that is really what the whole system is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example for a Mitsubishi Lancer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DosAk.png&quot; alt=&quot;lancer example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the mass is known, have a qualified professional fully evacuate the existing system and then proceed to fill the right mass of refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For topping up low pressure (as is the case here), it is difficult to ascertain how much mass is present in the system without drawing all the refrigerant out. In such scenarios it is more practical to top up based on the high-side and low-side pressures, albeit with less accuracy than the mass approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring pressures are convenient, but the following information is required to do a proper job:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a corresponding temperature chart/table is provided&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ambient temperature needs to be known&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:14:52.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19150" CreationDate="2015-08-06T12:35:31.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern cabriolets have similar consumption numbers with the roof up or down. But that being said, a cabriolet version of a vehicle model would normally weigh more because of all the extra reinforcement needed to stiffen the body in the absence of a stiff roof. This means that e.g. the VW Golf V 2.0 would weigh let's say 1400kg and the VW Golf V 2.0 Cabrio will weigh 1500kg. That means it has to carry around an extra 100kg, which WILL make for worse fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:35:31.580" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16406" CreationDate="2015-08-06T13:02:43.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Fiat, with the old FIRE engines (that's Fully Robotised Integrated Engines) used to run them up to 14,000 RPM for 20 minutes and if they passed that trial, they'd put them in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T13:02:43.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T13:28:56.490" Score="4" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you remove engine cooling fan from A-Class Mercedes W169?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11655" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T16:58:45.433" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T04:05:35.700" Title="How to remove engine cooling fan from a W169 Mercedes A-Class" Tags="|engine|mercedes-benz|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19265" CreationDate="2015-08-06T14:35:26.350" Score="8" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C LTD. When I got the bike one of the bearings on the starter assembly was worn out and would slip. So I pulled the engine and had to tear it down in order to get to the starter shaft (In this model engine the whole assembly was inside the engine case). Now when I put it back together I noticed that my clutch was way to easy to pull in, before on the bike I would have to pull with at least two fingers to pull the clutch in and now it seems that I can pull the clutch with my pinkie (and it doesn't want to spring back). Everything was put back in the order that was listed in the KZ550 manual. Is there something I missed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T17:16:39.703" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:16:39.703" Title="Clutch pulls in too easy after reassebling the clutch basket, what did I did wrong?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12507" CreationDate="2015-08-06T18:21:09.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is Cast iron 1993 model Enfield Standard, I have one query, What I mean to say is even I have the same Tappet sound, but if we are not tightening the tappet fully it will affect the engine, so if the sound is coming means it doesn't mean like your engine have any issue, as I know, you should service from a good mechanics, and ask him how to effect this for engine rather than reducing sound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Jay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11657" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T12:43:59.343" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T12:43:59.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:33:54.477" Score="2" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab 4x2.  I have 4 extremely worn tires.  We are traveling from Texas panhandle to Carlsbad NM so I need to replace them.  The problem is I can only afford used tires at the moment and only 2.  I am having a hard time finding the same size. What would be the effect of putting 245/ 75/ R17 on the front and leaving the 245/ 70 / r17 on the back? Also when I eventually get all 245 75 R17 how bad would it be if my spare was still 245/70/R17 until I could find one more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11658" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T21:07:33.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T23:39:06.993" Title="different tire ratios" Tags="|tires|gmc|sierra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19161" CreationDate="2015-08-06T20:50:04.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Something to watch out for&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you intend to buy second-hand, one thing to watch out for is the age of the tire. From personal experience in desert climate, standard tires usually don't last beyond 3-4 years. A premium tire might buy you an extra year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/16023/675&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; to know how to tell the age of a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Putting on a different size&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb used by some tire retailers is to not alter the overall diameter by more than 3%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the diameter of your original tire is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;17 * 25.4 + 2 * ( 245 * 0.70 ) = 800 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for a 245/75:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;17 * 25.4 + 2 * ( 245 * 0.75 ) = 776 mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an increase of a whisker over 3%. The rule of thumb recommends says that 245/75 in this case is on the border.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should be fine with this tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:22:08.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19161" CreationDate="2015-08-06T21:17:42.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with what @Zaid said, which I agree with, there are two other aspects to worry about: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Antilock Brake System (ABS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traction control (I'm not sure your Sierra has this, but it bears mentioning)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the ABS is, with that much of a difference, your ABS will believe there is a fault with the system and shut it down or might believe the smaller tires are losing traction and apply brakes to help gain traction (even though you haven't lost any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much the same idea with traction control. If the computer believes the rear tires are losing traction, it will pull power from the engine to compensate. I don't &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; your Sierra has traction control, but if it does it has drive by wire (no direct cable from your gas pedal to the throttle body), which means the computer has the control. There is no amount of pressure you can apply to the pedal when it decides to cut power which is going to overcome this. (For reference: I own an '06 Silverado Z71)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first fear is a definite. The second not so much for you. Since Zaid did the calculations, I'm pretty sure these tires should work for you. His answer deals with whether or not they will work, while mine deals with &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it is important to worry about such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T21:29:19.943" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:29:19.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19166" CreationDate="2015-08-06T21:28:26.873" Score="6" ViewCount="11457" Body="&lt;p&gt;3M and other companies make numerous different types of foam pads (links are to 3M products),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/best-pads/perfect-it-foam-compounding-pad-6-inch-33284.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Compounding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/best-pads/3m-perfect-it-1-finishing-pad-8-inch-quick-connect-33291.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Finishing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/best-pads/3m-perfect-it-foam-buffing-pad-05759.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Buffing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/best-pads/3m-perfect-it-foam-polishing-pad-05707.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polishing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between these types of pads? How do I use them? And, in what situation would they be required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, lastly, which one of these is closest to a traditional wool pad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:58:58.097" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:58:58.097" Title="What's the difference between a Compounding, Finishing, Buffing, and Polishing pad?" Tags="|paint|body|paint-scratches|detailing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19161" CreationDate="2015-08-06T21:30:00.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the vehicle is a rear-wheel drive, placing the larger wheels on the front would have the advantage of maintaining normal sized wheels on the driving axle. This means the drive-train is working at its intended rotation. Placing larger wheels on the driven axle would mean the engine would have to rev lower to produce the same speed. This is probably a good idea for a long trip, but depends a bit on the characteristics of the vehicle (gear ratios and how much it is loaded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the larger (and newer) wheels on the front also has the advantage of making sure you have steering even if or when you encounter adverse weather conditions or a bad surface. Needing to quickly swerve and finding out those front wheels are bent on going straight forward is not a pleasant experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since weight is transferred forward when braking, this would also give you slightly better braking. However, this should be tempered by the fact that bad wheels on the rear end could very well unbalance the truck and have you broadside across the traffic lanes. Not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having bad wheels on a rear-wheel drive also increases the risk of tire spin, the rear end snaking on acceleration or simply not being capable of starting it up a steep grade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my choice to make, all things being taken into perspective I would be putting the &quot;good&quot; wheels on the front axle, and keeping the original size &quot;bad&quot; wheels on the rear. And preparing to stop for a rest whenever a summer rain-shower came anywhere near me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, making a long trip with bad wheels is never a good idea. Besides the obvious physical danger that you are exposing yourself to, you are also exposing other road users to a similar danger. What happens if your heavy truck flips into a small Japanese car at speed? (Nothing against Jap cars, but they do tend to be smaller than a light truck.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration that you may not have thought of is: what happens if you get a blow-out -or even worse, two blow-outs- on those old tires during the journey? Even if you manage to stop the vehicle with no further damage done, is your budget up to having these tires changed at a road-side garage? You will be looking to use the spare on the first, but what about the second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So perhaps the best recommendation would be either to set off the trip if at all possible, or look for any different means of transport your budget allows you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:30:00.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19164" CreationDate="2015-08-06T22:35:05.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to understanding the differences lies in how car detailing and paint restoration works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key word here is &lt;em&gt;aggression&lt;/em&gt;, referring to the &quot;rate of cut&quot; of the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pads rated from most aggressive to least aggressive based on the information provided by 3M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. Compounding pad&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compounding refers to the process of &quot;levelling&quot; defects in the clearcoat (or paint in some cases) with chemical abrasives commonly referred to as &quot;cutting compounds&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The severity of the paint defects (swirls, scratches, etc.) determines the degree of aggression required. The idea behind detailing is to take off the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; amount of clearcoat/paint required to remove the defects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compounding pads are the go-to pads for relatively aggressive cutting action. They will usually have a stiffer foam to them, and the website also indicates that they have the most aggressive rate of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. Buffing pad&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see that the 3M site considers the buffing pad to still be a compound pad, just less aggressive. Ideally it is used with less aggressive cutting compounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3. Polishing pad&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing compound is less abrasive than cutting compounds, so the degree of cut required here is far less than when compounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4. Finishing pad&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the least aggressive of all pads. It is the one that is closest to a wool pad, only less messy and less likely to impart scratches on the paint work. This one is normally used in conjunction with a finishing compound which has much finer grit in it to make the polish &quot;pop&quot; and stand out even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wants to add a wax (like carnauba wax) on top of the paint to using a machine, this would be the go-to pad due to its minimal abrasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;One might ask...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Whether it is possible to mix and match pads with compounds/polishes, so for example use a buffing pad with more aggressive compound or compounding pad with less aggressive compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes. It is usually done to provide an intermediate level of cut where Pad A/Compound A is too aggressive and Pad B/Compound B is not cutting enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a very nice &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rYed_Hnrql4?t=6m15s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; by AmmoNYC which explains this in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T10:28:23.590" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T10:28:23.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16712" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:31:03.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the calculation you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMAP = RPM * MAP / IAT MAF = (IMAP/120)&lt;em&gt;(VE/100)&lt;/em&gt;(ED)*(MM)/(R)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where manifold absolute pressure (MAP) is in kPa, intake air temp (IAT) is in degrees Kelvin, R is 8.314 J/°K/mole and the average molecular mass of air (MM) is 28.97 g/mole.  Note that, in the above formula, the volumetric efficiency of the (4-cycle!) engine is&#xA;measured in percent and the engine displacement (ED) is in liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/oesmith/obdgpslogger/blob/master/doc/mpg-calculation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/oesmith/obdgpslogger/blob/master/doc/mpg-calculation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11174" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T00:31:03.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T03:16:29.980" Score="7" ViewCount="39214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving an old Grand Voyager minivan temporarily, and notice that when I accelerate then let go of the accelerator, the car pulls slightly to the right, and I have to correct it by steering a little to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of problem am I looking at, and if this isn't indicative of a single problem, what components should I check to determine the problem and the severity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T01:07:11.470" Title="Car pulls to right when letting go of accelerator?" Tags="|suspension|steering|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T05:36:21.653" Score="3" ViewCount="2459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a practical example on how to calculate the CRC field for CAN 2.0 B?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11642" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T01:16:08.253" Title="CRC field calculation for CAN 2.0 B" Tags="|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19169" CreationDate="2015-08-07T07:58:41.127" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle in question is a front-wheel drive. FWDs are sensitive to front wheel alignment, since the front suspension and wheel linkages work under different conditions when accelerating and not accelerating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on acceleration, the wheels push backwards on the road, thus tend to move the front suspension forwards relative to the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on de-acceleration, the wheels are now pushing forwards against the road in the direction of travel to slow down the vehicle, and in reaction are pushing backwards against the suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also happens in RWD vehicles, but is limited to the rear axle. Thus, there is no connection between accelerating and steering. A badly aligned front wheel on a RWD will alter steering at all times, not just on acceleration. On a FWD with the steering a bit off, however, the wheels push against the suspension slightly to one side - giving the symptoms you have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net result is that this vehicle needs the front wheel alignment to be looked at. If it has been going on for some time, it should be apparent as increased and non-symmetrical usage on one of the front tires: one side will appear more used than the other. Besides making vehicle reactions less easy to foresee, it is also lowering tire life since both front tires will need to be replaced at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T14:15:35.830" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T14:15:35.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19169" CreationDate="2015-08-07T12:45:26.907" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_steering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Torque steering&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link provides various causes and solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11664" LastEditorUserId="11664" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T12:57:58.357" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T12:57:58.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19169" CreationDate="2015-08-07T13:58:40.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this behaviour on a number of vehicles and a number of time.  Each time it was caused by a different source.  These included;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn out engine mounts causing the engine / gearbox assembly to move around on and off throttle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn out rear wheel bearing so there was excessive play and the rear wheel was effectively causing the car to rear wheel steer itself&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken bottom ball joint, to part that holds the bottom of the front suspension square&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loose wheel bolts causing movement between the front wheel and the hub&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your issue could be caused by any of the above or something similar.  My suggestion would be to first check that all of the tyres are properly inflated, a soft tyre, even on the rear, will cause wayward handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the type pressures all look good, jack each wheel in turn and check for any play by grabbing the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and trying to move it in and out, then at 12 and 6 and doing the same.  Spin the wheels by hand and check for anything obvious.  Also open the bonnet and watch for excessive movement when revving or releasing the revs from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this yeilds no results, take the car for a wheel alignment and mention it to the mechanic who does the alignment for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T13:58:40.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19169" CreationDate="2015-08-07T14:05:50.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled the tires off and inspected the front end suspension and steering, and found that the sway bar linkage on the drivers side was detached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryxiw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front drivers side steering and suspension showing sway bar linkage detached&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T14:05:50.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19178" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:05:46.373" Score="7" ViewCount="63089" Body="&lt;p&gt;The torque spec for my Tacoma says that cylinder head bolts should be torqued (in a specific sequence) to 27 ft/lbs initially and then again each should be turned another 180 degrees in the same sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to use a torque wrench to set torque to a specific ft/lbs but I don't know how to measure the angle turned by ratcheting.  How do I make sure that a certain number of clicks on a ratchet equates a certain angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus question, can you explain why Toyota would spec the second round of torquing in angles and not ft/lbs ?  I think ft/lbs would be a cleaner spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="47220" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T14:43:19.560" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T21:05:11.250" Title="How to measure angle when ratcheting a bolt?" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:11:46.320" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;90° = quarter turn. 180° = half turn. It's alright if you are off a few degrees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically start with the breaker bar perpendicular (straight out) and do quarter turns, or have it straight off to the left. Just keep yourself parallel or perpendicular to where you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH. It's bad for the torque wrench to turn after its clicked.  Use a breaker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bolts are &quot;torque to yield.&quot; They stretch out, which is why they should not be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be precise you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003UMRXSW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Torque Angle Gauge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="3362" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T00:02:51.567" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T00:02:51.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:57:17.627" Score="0" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;my wife's car's electronics are not working (no central locking, no lights on the dash - nothing). I have tried charging the battery and jump starting the car but no luck. Could a bad fuse stop all of the electronics from working or is it something else ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11672" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T16:59:03.367" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T16:59:03.367" Title="Honda Jazz 51 Electronics Won't Come On" Tags="|honda|electrical|jazz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19181" CreationDate="2015-08-07T16:25:06.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking an issue with the battery cables.  Likely the ground cable.  Follow it and see if it breaks anywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a multimeter.  Measure the voltage between the battery terminals, then between an unpainted part of the body or the engine and the positive terminal.  If the voltage is about the same, your ground is good.  If the voltage is 0, you have a bad ground.  If your ground is good, you will need to follow the positive until you find a break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:25:06.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-08-07T16:28:48.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a torque angle gauge (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19178/675&quot;&gt;rpmerf recommends&lt;/a&gt;) or space is tight, here is one possible way estimate the angle with a ratchet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a ratchet that fits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Without any socket on the ratchet, rotate the square drive head 180° by hand while counting the number of clicks felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[My own 1/2&amp;quot;-drive ratchet clicks 36 times in a 180° sweep, so 5° per click]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install the socket and place the ratchet over the bolt and turn it in the opposite direction to simulate the maximum possible sweep. The idea here is to determine the number of clicks in a single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ratchet clicks &lt;em&gt;less than two times per pass&lt;/em&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;error is going to be too high&lt;/strong&gt; to be able to rely on this method. Don't use it. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not proceed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[If the sweep angle per pass is 15°, that'd be 2-3 clicks]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there are 2+ clicks per pass, calculate the number of passes needed to reach the total clicks in 180° and execute accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Assuming 36 clicks and 3 clicks per sweep, you're looking at 12 passes]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Caveat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach can have high error associated with it. In the example above, one could be off by as much as 90°. The more clicks per sweep, the better the results will be with this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:28:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-08-07T16:49:56.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of behaviour could be explained by a serpentine belt which slips when the engine is under additional load (like when going uphill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would explain the symptoms described; if the belt doesn't spin, there will be no power steering assistance, and alternator charging will drop that will cause the battery light to turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I faced a similar issue when the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11377/why-would-turning-on-the-a-c-affect-my-alternator-output-voltage&quot;&gt;rubber dampener on my crank pulley&lt;/a&gt; gave out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible culprits include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;lack of belt tension&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for a stretched belt or weak belt tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;rotation of the engine not being transmitted to the belt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the crank pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:49:56.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:05:56.933" Score="3" ViewCount="5385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still want to be abl to see out the back of my car, but at the same time I want to give all those obnoxious pricks who drive around with their high-beams on at night even when they're behind another car a well-deserved attitude adjustment.  How can I turn my rear window into a one-way mirror, like cops use on TV for interrogation rooms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11673" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T21:36:21.293" Title="How can I turn my rear window into a one-way mirror?" Tags="|window|mirrors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19185" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:23:03.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This easiest way to do this is by using limo tint or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004S7HPJ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one way mirror window tint&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCzPz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCzPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to be careful of here is to be ware of local laws which may be at issue with your designs. At least in the US, most states require that you do not put this type of tint forward of the B-pillar (post at the rear of the front door) so as to not impede the driver's vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T17:23:03.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:24:30.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like you need to take it to the dealership and get it fixed. With Hyundai's warranty, this should not be an issue. As for the problem itself, it sounds like there may be a transmission problem (you say you were at 4-6k rpms, sounds like the engine is revving quite high). Check to ensure there is enough transmission fluid present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T17:24:30.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19185" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:46:43.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many ways, a better solution would be to install an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_pObzXUzE8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;auto-dimming mirror&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most auto manufacturers nowadays offer this feature as an option&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the dimming gel relies on light-sensor input to decide whether to lighten or darken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installing window tint reduces night-driving visibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not all legislations approve of the installation of window tint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4CWG.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4CWG.gif&quot; alt=&quot;mirror&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gentex.com/images/auto/why_dimming_picture.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gentex.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto-dimming mirrors do require an electrical power supply, but should be quite easy to retrofit into a vehicle which has interior cabin/reading lights, since the wiring for the lights can be spliced into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T21:36:21.293" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T21:36:21.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19191" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:49:46.590" Score="2" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 84 Ranger with a 2.8L V6 and I'm trying to squeeze out as much power out of the engine as possible. The cat had been removed by the last owner, so the pump was essentially just pushing air to nowhere, and the old tube was just hanging and dragging along. I'm thinking I could just remove the entire system without a huge hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just removed the air pump and fitted a new belt onto the alternator (it was previously driving both the alternator &amp;amp; smog pump on the same belt). Now I'm not sure what to do with the tubes coming from the exhaust manifold, check (it looks like) valves, and all the extra vacuum (?) lines going into the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm just going to plug the holes on exhaust manifold, but how do I tackle the vacuum lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:38:15.913" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:38:15.913" Title="Removing the smog pump on an 84 Ranger" Tags="|ford|exhaust|ranger|smog-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19192" CreationDate="2015-08-07T18:36:37.140" Score="2" ViewCount="6041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a car without a spare, on which all the tires will need to be replaced soon. Run-flat tires are crazy expensive. How well does fix-a-flat work for getting me to a tire shop in the case of a tire puncture? Is it a suitable replacement for having a spare? Can I get away with not getting the run-flat tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10846" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T19:51:28.657" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T15:57:43.500" Title="Run-flat tires vs. fix-a-flat?" Tags="|tires|fix-a-flat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19189" CreationDate="2015-08-07T18:48:38.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I just remove the pipes going into the manifold and just tap a bolt into the manifold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is an option, though you really don't want a bolt sticking into the path of the hot exhaust gases if you're after maximizing performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer brazing or welding the manifold shut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it matter what I plug the holes with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, as long as it avoids exhaust leaks and can withstand the high exhaust temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or should I leave the tubes there and plug the end of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is entirely up to you. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19059/675&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for a related query.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T18:48:38.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2015-08-07T18:56:18.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's some issues I have with fix-a-flat:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of a large puncture / fast leak, you'll need to add air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runflats are good because in case of a sudden loss of pressure, they'll get you to a tire shop. With fix-a-flat, if you have a sudden loss of pressure, you'll have to limp your car to a gas station or carry a compressor around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix-a-flat isn't great for your tires, either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18276/tire-vibration-from-right-rear-tire-at-high-speeds/18287#18287&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer to a previous question - but essentially, after getting to a shop after using fix-a-flat, some work might need to be done in order to get the tire properly balanced, since the fix-a-flat &quot;goo&quot; can throw the tire out of balance until it is removed. This actually isn't a huge deal, it just means a little more work at the tire shop, and you need to remember to bring it up (why I'm mentioning it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, with fix-a-flat, you'll have to spend some time on the side of the road / at a gas station putting a band-aid in/on your tire. Runflats just... sort of &lt;em&gt;go&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given those three things, here's some issues I have with runflats:&lt;/strong&gt; Runflats are only good for, what, 100 miles? And they also need to be replaced more frequently (treadlife is worse), on top of being the more expensive tire like you said. Also, when they do go flat, you generally need to replace them in pairs, in my experience. To top if off, (at least the older models of runflats) would blow out at low pressures, so if you had a slow leak, you're completely toast. Meanwhile, here I am, I've driven for over 3 hours with a slowly leaking tire where I started the trip at 32 psi and ended at 20 because it had to be done (normal tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; Since you're in a situation without a spare (as is my mother, and this is what I tell her), &lt;strong&gt;yes, I believe that fix-a-flat is good enough for you (depending on your situation, this is somewhat personal preference) in lieu of getting runflats.&lt;/strong&gt; Runflats are good for 100 miles. If you're on the road and really need to go and get going, fix-a-flat, while not perfect, will get you where you need to go, no matter if it's 10, 100, or 500 miles. You tire will still leak slowly, and maybe your alignment will be thrown slightly off, but after 100 miles, runflats are 100% toast. So spend the money you'd spend on a can of fix-a-flat and a portable air compressor. Good enough, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all of that, I don't believe fix-a-flat is a suitable replacement for a (compact or full-size) spare, but unless you want to carry a donut around in the back seat, fix-a-flat is, again, good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final disclaimer: Your car, your money, do what you want, eg. my mother doesn't take my advice because she can't change a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T19:20:27.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19194" CreationDate="2015-08-07T19:31:04.067" Score="6" ViewCount="31918" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're starting the engine and it has already started but you keep pressing the key and the starter keeps working while the engine is running.  What can this cause?? Could it harm anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T20:40:25.243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T08:47:29.063" Title="What happens if you keep starting the car for too long?" Tags="|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19193" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:11:02.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;run on&quot; of the starter. It doesn't cause a huge issue if it doesn't happen too much or for too long, but basically the Bendix stays engaged in the flywheel ring gear an is being then driven by the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further explain, the Bendix (or pinion drive mechanism) is the part on the end of the starter armature which engages the flywheel (or flexplate) ring gear when you engage the starter. The Bendix has a built in one way clutch as part of it. When it is engaging the ring gear prior to the engine starting, the clutch is solid and allows the gear to rotate the engine. When the engine starts up, it will now be spinning faster than the starter is, so the clutch in the Bendix allows the gear to turn freely so as to not increase the speed of the starter armature. It is designed this way to prevent damage to the starter motor itself in just the situation you are talking about. If the starter were to get over driven, it would cause excess wear very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Bendix gets over driven for a long period of time, you will cause the one-way clutch to spin freely, but it also causes heat from friction as the one-way clutch always has a clamping force on the internals of the Bendix. As stated, it is designed to take this for short periods of time, so no worry there. For your convenience, here is a blown apart picture of a generic starter. The starter in your vehicle probably doesn't look exactly like this, but all the parts will pretty much be there in one shape or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lU1Fh.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lU1Fh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:11:02.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:30:20.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both run-flat and fix-a-flat share a disadvantage IMHO: both can let you down in case of a tear on the tire side-wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is rather common when off-roading (rocks), which is why no serious off-roading vehicle will lack a (normal-sized) spare tire. But it can also happen in urban driving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub the tire once too often against a curb, pressing it against the rim edge, and you end up with a nice rip in the sidewall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run across a sharp piece of metal (e.g. near a construction site), and if the hole is in a bad place you can also end up with a tear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these situations, run-flat will obviously be incapable of inflating the tire. Running on it, even on run-flats, can completely destroy the tire since forces are no longer balanced from side to side. So you end up having to change a tire - or having the vehicle towed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T16:01:01.073" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T16:01:01.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12586" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:38:08.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be crass here, but you should just find one on the internet (Flex-a-lite makes a bunch of different models) which fits and follow their directions. I put one of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-280/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monster Fan kits&lt;/a&gt; on my '04 Suburban. It worked very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the size of your radiator and go from there, as I doubt they make one specific for your application. The ones which have their own temperature probe and controller will be your best bet. There would be no way to tell you how to install it over the internet ... not any better than the instructions, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:38:08.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19199" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:31:00.843" Score="5" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with the concept of &lt;code&gt;torque wrench&lt;/code&gt;.  However, with a torque wrench, one can only apply a desired amount of torque.  Is there a way to measure how much torque has been applied to a certain fastener without actually applying the torque as in reverse engineering a torque spec?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example where that would be practical is if you have to take something apart, yet don't have its torque spec and trust the existing torque and want to retorque it back to the original torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T02:56:42.467" Title="How to measure torque statically?" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19201" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:36:28.840" Score="3" ViewCount="2750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an old 64 Fairlane that died in rush hour traffic one day. I called a buddy who worked near me-- he pulled up to the side of the road with a bag of ice, and held it to the ignition coil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car fired right back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always thought this was some crazy black magic he worked-- I've never heard of this trick before and haven't been able to figure out what had happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone seen this or know why cooling a coil could get a car back on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5009" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:22:35.253" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:22:35.253" Title="Cooling the ignition coil" Tags="|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19197" CreationDate="2015-08-07T22:22:14.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The internet is a vast resource ... use your Google-Fu and figure it out. You can always ask on here. There are enough of us on here we can get you the torque value for your fastener.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;torque chart&lt;/a&gt; from the Bolt Depot:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCQ6s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCQ6s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all else fails, get a dial indicated torque wrench. Put it on the fastener and turn the handle until you just start to feel the fastener turn. Do this slowly and pay attention to where this happens. Round it to the nearest 5lb-ft and you should be right there. I know this is basically reverse engineering the torque, but it should put you in the right range of torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uoyIk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uoyIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While torque specs are very important, what is more important is getting the torque specs even between fasteners, especially with things like head bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to be aware of when torquing bolts is to figure out whether the bolt is torque-to-yield (T2Y). These fasteners &lt;em&gt;are one use only&lt;/em&gt; and must be replaced once taken apart. These fasteners will also most likely have the final torque sequence which works from the stretch of the both and not from the torque itself. The final sequence is done by turning the fastener a certain amount of degrees. A torque sequence may look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First: 20 lb-ft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second: 40 lb-ft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third: 60 degrees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: These are just numbers I've thrown out there for understanding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot tell by the way a bolt looks as to whether it is a T2Y bolt or a regular one ... you have to look up the spec. If you don't know and don't do it right, you'll most likely blow a head gasket. This is &lt;em&gt;very important&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T22:22:14.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-08-07T22:48:09.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to buck the other two answers and tell you &lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important to torque your head bolts correctly. The actual preferred method for attaining the proper torque is by figuring out the fastener stretch, not by using a torque wrench. When torquing, you are applying a &lt;em&gt;clamping load&lt;/em&gt; on the object you are torquing. You can get this at its most accurate by measuring the stretch of the fastener by using a dial indicator. It's by far &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt; to torque the fastener down using a torque wrench and in most applications, this is an adequate method of doing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case it seems you are using &lt;strong&gt;torque-to-yield (T2Y) fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;. These are (as @rpmerf pointed out) &lt;strong&gt;single use fasteners only&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; If I could make this text blink, I would to emphasize the point). These &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;must be replaced once you have broken them free&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (this would blink as well). If you don't, your head gasket &lt;em&gt;will fail&lt;/em&gt;. The head gasket is the typical place for these types of fasteners. The reason these fasteners are only good for one go around is they are designed to go up to that &quot;fail point&quot;, but not beyond. They start to fail by giving a bit or stretching. These are specific built fasteners by the manufacturer. They have done the stretch engineering for you. By applying the last degree turn, you are stretching the bolt to the tolerance they have engineered into the bolt. If you go past this point, you are only courting death for your engine. If you don't go far enough, you'll have a weak point in your torque chain which could allow for warpage in the part you are trying to affix ... especially true for a head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As rpmerf stated, get the torque angle gauge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qn3Nm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qn3Nm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T22:48:09.677" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19198" CreationDate="2015-08-07T23:24:13.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like @ Paulster2 I have never heard of this. I suppose it is possible if you had a coil on the edge of failure that it might fail while overheated. Resistance is a function of temperature. The more heat the more resistance,  more resistance generates more heat and so on. It just seems odd that he knew to bring the ice. Maybe he was also being prepared for a vapor lock condition, where the fuel boils in the fuel line. For what it's worth, I had a car with a small block Chevy and exhaust headers that came close to the starter. It refused to crank while hot. The starter would get so hot from the exhaust that the resistance was so high it would not spin. I carried a spray bottle of water and soaked it down to restart. After installation of a heat shield no more issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T23:24:13.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-08-08T03:17:07.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque the bolt to the required torque.  Then mark the head of the bolt with a marker or pen.  This way you can visually check the angle.  This is commonly used to ensure bolts are torqued during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11676" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:17:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17312" CreationDate="2015-08-08T07:43:01.987" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pozidriv screw is an advanced version of the Phillips screw but the key difference is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded&#xA;corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will&#xA;twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have&#xA;straight sided flanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each of the arms of the cross are parallel-sided on&#xA;the Pozidriv, but they are tapered off with the Phillips. (refer the below image, look at the 45° notch between the arms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KStKc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KStKc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ignore the spelling mistake on Pozidriv&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv&#xA;screwdriver will cam out, providing a greater driving surface, and&#xA;decrease wear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you state , Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, and can damage the screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The marker lines on a Pozidriv screwdriver will not fit a Phillips screw correctly, and are likely to tear out or warp the screw head. Slippage is also possible, if the screw is relativity new and not subjected to corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning, if you use a Phillips on a Pozidriv you have greater chances of slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you use a Pozidriv on a Phillips it will shred the screw head and slippage is always better than destroying the screw thus, so you can at least try the former if you have no proper tool kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is the only main disadvantage of the Pozidriv head , its very similar to look as the Phillips and unaware users end up with damaged/warped screw head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="73893" LastEditDate="2023-10-24T07:00:40.700" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T07:00:40.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19103" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:03:39.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if this picture helps you. Keep in mind most manufactures only use one main harness regardless of the accessories. So even if you don't have heated seats, or traction control the connectors and the harness are already there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uc0tb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uc0tb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is the pin-out for the traction control switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npTqv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npTqv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on the inside of the drivers door for a label that looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNYIS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNYIS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will tell you if the vehicle is equipped with traction control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - Four-wheel anti-lock brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 - Traction control brake system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 -Four-wheel anti-lock with Traction control brake system &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blank - Less anti-lock/Traction Control brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T23:16:05.370" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:16:05.370" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:04:05.643" Score="4" ViewCount="27910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard that going down on the manufacturer's tire speed rating will affect the handling but will going up from an H to a V do anything such as increasing tread life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11678" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T19:39:39.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T10:30:57.823" Title="Will using a higher speed rated tire do anything for the car?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19205" CreationDate="2015-08-08T17:32:53.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - There is absolutely no worries about putting a higher rated tire on your vehicle. It just means you can drive your car faster if the car is capable (and the speed limits will allow). You will gain nothing in any other aspect of the tire, such as tire life, treadwear, or what have you. In fact, the higher speed rating doesn't have much to do with cornering ability, either. Just the speed factor of the tire itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no relationship between the speed rating and the longevity of the tire. Every manufacturer will have different combinations of factors. There is a whole wide range of tires available in many different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is widely known how to tell if a tire will fit your car: you look at the size. The size reads something to the effect of: P255/75R-15. It breaks down as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; equates to &lt;strong&gt;Passenger tire&lt;/strong&gt; (LT = Light Truck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;255&lt;/strong&gt; is the width of the tire tread in millimeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;75&lt;/strong&gt; is the aspect or sidewall ratio as a percentage (in this case, the tire sidewall would be 75% of the width of the tread)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; is telling us the tire is a radial tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;15&lt;/strong&gt; is the rim diameter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same indicator may also look like: P255/75&lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt;R-15 &lt;strong&gt;92Y&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt; indicates the tire is speed rated above 149mph (or 240kph). When this speed was introduced, it was thought that there would never be a need to have a tire which would need to go faster. It was soon discovered that there was a need for greater speeds, so &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt; were introduced. You will see the actual speed rating at the end of the &lt;strong&gt;92Y&lt;/strong&gt; indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;225/50ZR16  in excess of 149 mph, 240 km/h&#xA;205/45ZR17 88W  168 mph, 270 km/h&#xA;285/35ZR19 99Y  186 mph, 300 km/h&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;92&lt;/strong&gt; in my above example, indicates the load rating of the tire. The higher the number, the more the tire can individually haul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(NOTE: LI=Load Index)&#xA;&#xA;LI   LBS    KG  |  LI   LBS     KG  &#xA;71   761    345 |  91   1356    615&#xA;72   783    355 |  92   1389    630&#xA;73   805    365 |  93   1433    650&#xA;74   827    375 |  94   1477    670&#xA;75   853    387 |  95   1521    690&#xA;76   882    400 |  96   1565    710&#xA;77   908    412 |  97   1609    730&#xA;78   937    425 |  98   1653    750&#xA;79   963    437 |  99   1709    775&#xA;80   992    450 |  100  1764    800&#xA;81  1019    462 |  101  1819    825&#xA;82  1047    475 |  102  1874    850&#xA;83  1074    487 |  103  1929    875&#xA;84  1102    500 |  104  1984    900&#xA;85  1135    515 |  105  2039    925&#xA;86  1168    530 |  106  2094    950&#xA;87  1201    545 |  107  2149    975&#xA;88  1235    560 |  108  2205    1000&#xA;89  1279    580 |  109  2271    1030&#xA;90  1323    600 |  110  2337    1060&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more indicators on the side of the tire which are also useful when trying to figure out anything about a tire and how it should behave when on your vehicle. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoSidewall.do&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Discount Tire&lt;/a&gt; has a great page on this info, but I want to point out one area since you mentioned it, that being tread life. On the side of the tire it will look something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBvOW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBvOW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three parts to this being: treadwear; traction; temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treadwear:&lt;/strong&gt; Treadwear is a measurement of the tires durability. The higher the number, the longer the tire should last (under normal conditions). The thing to remember out the treadwear number is &lt;em&gt;it is specific to the manufacturer&lt;/em&gt; not to other brands. If you are contemplating a Goodyear brand tire, only compare the number on other Goodyear tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traction:&lt;/strong&gt; This measures the tire's ability to stop in a straight line on wet surfaces in a controlled test environment. It doesn't measure the tire's ability to handle in the corner. There are several ratings: AA, A, B, &amp;amp; C. AA is the highest rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature:&lt;/strong&gt; This measures a tire's ability to withstand heat buildup in the tire. It has measurements of: A, B, &amp;amp; C. A is the highest rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T17:36:05.640" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T17:36:05.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19208" CreationDate="2015-08-08T18:16:59.100" Score="6" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Ford Fiesta Zetec and the previous owner has removed the stripes that run over the middle of the car, which has left a terrible looking mark, as if the glue has not come off when they removed the stripes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to get rid of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11680" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T20:27:39.387" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T07:34:37.053" Title="Removing stripe or decal glue from exterior paint" Tags="|ford|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19207" CreationDate="2015-08-08T18:26:21.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use some WD-40 and a little elbow grease and it should come right off. Spray the WD-40 right onto the glue residue, then wipe off with a soft cloth. This will destroy the cloth in the process by having the glue residue build up on it, but the glue will be off your vehicle. When you have cleaned the entire area, ensure you wash the vehicle, as what's left of the WD-40 will attract dust. A good coat of wax afterward will help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note:&lt;/strong&gt; When I specify &lt;strong&gt;WD-40&lt;/strong&gt;, I mean use it and not something else. WD-40 was originally designed to clean the skin on aircraft. It will work as I'm describing. I cannot vouch for any other type of spray lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T18:30:16.500" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T18:30:16.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15805" CreationDate="2015-08-08T19:14:37.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's solved: fuel injector relay. It died on me again. Again the dealer couldn't find a problem. When I came to pick it up, the lot attendant drove it up to the office from the parking lot where it had been sitting in the hot sun. When I went out to drive away, it wouldn't start. Went back to the service manager, who tried it, then called over a tech, &quot;Chris, listen to this.&quot; They replaced the fuel injector relay and I haven't had any problems, since. Not even any of the behavior that was diagnosed as a &quot;hot soak&quot; problem. Been running fine since...late May/early June.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9688" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T20:42:16.673" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T20:42:16.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T22:23:30.653" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the rekeying mechanisms use OBD II. Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00NVCLPCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example of one&lt;/a&gt;. Do any generic OBD II Diagnostic and Key Code Clearing tools support this rekeying functionality via OBD Key? Preferably one with Linux support?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T16:32:52.967" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:32:52.967" Title="Do any generic OBD tools provide re-keying OBD Key?" Tags="|obd-ii|key|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-08-13T15:29:13.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19217" CreationDate="2015-08-09T01:02:01.063" Score="4" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am confused by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-and-Read-an-Outside-Micrometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; on how to use a micrometer.  Does anyone know of better ones?  I need to measure the thickness of my valve lifters (and then do a feeler gauge test but that is not done with a micrometer) because I didn't keep track of my valve lifter before taking apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T12:02:06.273" Title="Better instructions how to use a micrometer" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19215" CreationDate="2015-08-09T01:19:40.110" Score="2" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry I can't be more specific. I have no idea what it is and my google-fu has failed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Gpj9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; Here is an image of the part in question. It is in the center of the image and has a large crack in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it and if it's bad that it's cracked, then could a little bit of welding help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: 1994 Cherokee if that matters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="11339" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T03:32:37.567" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T02:23:41.330" Title="What is this thing behind my oilpan and is it bad that it's cracked?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19212" CreationDate="2015-08-09T03:30:53.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looked at it with my father-in-law and he says it's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeep4x4center.com/automatic-transmission-mount-52002334.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear transmission mount&lt;/a&gt;.  Also turns out it's rubber, not metal (didn't think to check that because I'm an idiot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said it's not a huge deal that it's torn, but obviously it would be better if I replaced it. It's a cheap part and shouldn't he a huge deal to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon I can just put a jack stand underneath the transmission, unbolt the old mount, pry it out, then place the new one in and bolt everything back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="11339" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T03:35:58.923" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T03:35:58.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19212" CreationDate="2015-08-09T03:36:34.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell without seeing what else it's connected to. However if I had to guess, it looks like a portion of your subframe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A subframe is a piece of metal that typically stretches from one side of your car to the other and is bolted to the actual frame of your car. Its task is to support the weight of your engine and transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I can't see the crack (it might help to take a closer, more detailed photo of the crack itself) I would say that if it involves the subframe and the crack is substantial, yes, it is a bad thing. If, when driving, the subframe cracks in half, there's very little support for a ~300+lb smorgasbord of cast iron and steel parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, don't be TOO worried. Bring it somewhere like a Monro or something and have them lift it up and get their opinion (don't necessary have them do the work, their labor rates are high and depending on the mechanic, may not be qualified). Bottom line, get it up on a lift, get someone's opinion and take &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; photos of it. There are &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of forums about jeeps or cars in general who can give you better insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11177" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T03:36:34.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19212" CreationDate="2015-08-09T08:38:16.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of the supports for the transmission. On a Cherokee (Jeep XJ), the engine, clutch, gearbox and transfer case form a complete assembly that goes inline from front to rear. Needless to say, this is quite long and needs some support points to bear the weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if this is just one support point among many (and the others can hold things in place), it is best to change it. The complete transmission weighs quite a lot, and you do not want it shimmying all over the place when you drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a Cherokee is also designed for off-roading, where stresses can get higher than on-road. Components can be seen as over-engineered for simply driving on the highway. So while it will certainly be best to have it changed, there is probably no immediate hurry to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest hindrance to take it out will probably be a bit of rust in the bolts, since may have been taken out just 1-2 times during the life of the vehicle (whenever the clutch has been changed on a manual - maybe never on an automatic box). So I would recommend a dose of penetrating lubricant applied some time before actually wrenching (12-24 hours). WD-40 comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T08:38:16.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T10:09:02.243" Score="7" ViewCount="45124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our Jeep was having problems turning over, so we called a tow truck driver. He connected the jumper cables incorrectly, starting a small fire on the battery box. After the fire was out, the Jeep no longer turned over. Besides damaging the electronics IN the engine, is it possible that he killer the starter? The battery isn't quite 2 years old, and works great. Radio, turn signals, power windows/locks &amp;amp; lights work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11684" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:31:30.347" Title="Can hooking up jumper cables incorrectly damage the electrical system of the receiving vehicle?" Tags="|electrical|jeep|starter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19211" CreationDate="2015-08-09T12:02:06.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Those instructions sure are confusing!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a couple of places where the wiki instructions are clear as mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The example states that the micrometer in the example is meant to measure lengths between 2&quot; and 3&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this particular example, the micrometer measures the range from 2&quot; to 3”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then 2.1 highlights the 2 on the sleeve for no logical reason whatsoever. This has nothing to do with how the 2 in 2.545 is obtained. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I wouldn't pay any attention to Step 2.1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AZkLA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Confusion #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The small markings on the sleeve look like they should be 50-thousandths while the explanation treats it as a 25-thousandths marking in 2.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7w9Ft.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example isn't coherent with the images. I'd recommend watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/i_jygJkJujE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the video&lt;/a&gt; as @Paulster2 suggests in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T12:02:06.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2015-08-09T13:15:23.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im not an expert, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I think I can tackle this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, but not likely. When you attach the wrong cables to the wrong nodes on a battery, it results in a very high current flow to the battery with a lower charge. The fuses in your fuse box are designed to burn out and break in the event of high surge of current in order to spare your vehicles components from frying. Basically how a surge protected power strip works or how the old screw-in fuses that were common in houses until breakers become standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time the fuses do their job correctly. However, on very rare occasions a fuse will weld itself together, creating a constant connection between battery and component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This actually happened to my mother in law's truck a couple weeks ago.  Her vehicle wouldn't turn over, however all the lights were working so the battery still had a charge. We figured the next logical thing to check was the starter. Oddly enough, when we replaced it, the truck started immediately after connecting the cables to the starter - the keys weren't even in the ignition. We swapped out the fuse for the starter in the fuse box and it turned over only when we cranked the keys in the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses first, and if the Jeep still isn't turning over after replacing them, then start troubleshooting other damage from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to tell if an electrical component is damaged is with a charge tester. Touch the positive and negative nodes to the corresponding connections in the component and it will tell you if they're still allowing current to flow through properly. You can get one at any hardware store, or swing by a mechanic or auto parts store and they will likely test out your component for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just see if the Jeep will crank once you've replaced the battery and repaired anything that might have burned up :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="11339" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T13:25:49.937" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T13:25:49.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8501" CreationDate="2015-08-09T14:24:57.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to take this time to share my thoughts in regard to the problem I've had with the 2000 Sienna.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've resently changed the drivers side motor that had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only to have a problem a month later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem was not my motor but instead it was due to the Increase friction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the thermal fuse that is internal becomes very hot and it gets a higher resistance as well as giving less voltage to the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was causing the motor to turn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that my problem was that the tracks needed a really good cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea to change the internal fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But soldering is not my forte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11686" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T17:28:15.087" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T17:28:15.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T17:52:56.493" Score="2" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took my cylinder heads apart, I wasn't aware of the need to keep track of the order of valve lifters so I didn't.  I did, however, separate the left from right side of the engine (V6 Tacoma).  So I have two sets of 12 lifters each that I need to redistribute in their old/new places.  Ideally, they would each go in the exact same old place it was before but I think that matters less considering that I lapped my valves, which would introduce irregularities so the gaps would vary, making it unlikely that the old order will now fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that may be helpful is that each of my lifters has a size inscribed inside it (the one in the picture is 39, can't be seen very well).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN3Fb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the distribution of sizes on the left side of my engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;39 x 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;46 x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;38 x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 x 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;43 x 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41 x 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 x 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;37 x 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't know where each one from before went nor have I been able to find a factory diagram on the interwebs.  For the purposes of measuring the lash between the valve stem and the cam, I understand I need a lifter in place as a point of relative measurement for the sake of finding and being replaced by another lifter that ultimately fits the size.  So, &lt;strong&gt;my question is, considering that I don't have the original order, how can I determine what a good initial distribution of these would be?  Or does it matter because the lash is everywhere bigger than every one of these lifter sizes and I can just initially set them randomly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand, according to my Haynes manual, the lifters have to be on the valves in some initial order and the camshafts and the timing chain need to be on. The manual says put piston 1 [I think the right side, the one closest to the front (radiator)] in TDC, then measure 8 specific valves (manual has a diagram which ones), then spin the crank 2/3 turn and do the same for another specific set of 8, then repeat one more time. I will also need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN3Fb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a micrometer&lt;/a&gt; to remeasure the actual thickness of each lifter because it may have varied over time from what it says it is on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T20:00:37.663" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T08:19:52.610" Title="Gauging valve lashes with shuffled set of lifters" Tags="|valve|camshaft|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9587" CreationDate="2015-08-09T17:57:32.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BYD can charge at every public charging point, excerpt CHADEMO ,Combo&#xA;And superchargers, The last one is for Tesla only.... the plug in the picture is the DC plug, But the car has also a AC connection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: here in Europe it can charge at &#xA;Public type 2 mode 3 chargers (doesn't have the name mode 3 in US)&#xA;In US it maybe charge on AC in a different&#xA;Way than overhere. (Via adapter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11687" LastEditorUserId="11687" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T18:16:31.180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T18:16:31.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2015-08-09T19:03:35.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the resultant issue is a fried fusible link which attaches the ignition to the starter or the starter relay which would do the same. This probably would not have killed the starter. This is the reason for the relays/fusible links in the first place. Since you didn't put down the model or year of the Jeep, it is a little hard to help you with further diagnostic as far as where to find a fusible link or as to which relay to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:03:35.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19225" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:07:39.043" Score="2" ViewCount="18208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to reinstall my exhaust manifold on a V6 &lt;strong&gt;Tacoma and I was contemplating the need for &lt;code&gt;gasket sealant&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  When the old one came off, it didn't look like it had any sealant so my guess is no.  The only reason I could see it as useful is to keep it put over the studs on the cylinder head and from sliding off but I can really mount it on the exhaust itself.  Understanding that gasket sealant here may be optional, &lt;strong&gt;I was also wondering if it ever came be undesirable and detrimental&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manifolds also have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17544/rusty-exhaust-manifolds&quot;&gt;considerable amount of rust&lt;/a&gt; on them.  &lt;strong&gt;Should I sand off or somehow else clean at least the mating surfaces?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:34:46.303" Title="Gasket sealant with exhaust manifold" Tags="|exhaust|rust|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:14:13.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there are too many variables to say for sure. It would depend on how long everything was connected incorrectly, how much damage the fire did along with what circuits were involved. Circuits that are not normally related to the starting or charging systems may have been damaged by the fire or by feeding power thru the ground side of the circuit. I would recommend you have the electrical system evaluated by either the dealer or a shop that specializes in automotive electrical systems. You may have damaged wiring that will be a problem later. Then send the towing company the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:14:13.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:34:46.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to use sealant on the gaskets. Most exhaust manifold gaskets either come with their own sealant (like Fel-Pro's do with the silver looking stuff), or they are metal and don't require it either. I believe sealants (such as high temp Permatex Copper) will just burn off anyway, because the heat at the head/header interface is far beyond what they can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should only have to worry about the mating surface of the manifold as far as rust goes. The rest can still have the rust on it without any detriment to anything, including the manifold itself. If there is a buildup of rust on the mating surface, take a piece of fine (300 or finer grit), put it on the broad side of a scrap piece of 2x4 board about 4&quot; to 6&quot; long, and lightly sand the area. You don't want to stay in one area too long. You are just trying to knock down any major areas. When you get done with it, clean it off with some of that brake clean I saw in your other picture, wipe it down with a cloth, and you should be golden. The reason to use a flat piece of board is so that your mating surface is maintained as flat. If you don't, you could have slight low spots in your manifold which could allow for exhaust leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T20:34:46.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:06:39.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connecting the jumper cables the wrong way might actually damage your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is running low (that's why you can't start) then you have less voltage across it's nodes. When you connect another battery with the exchanged nodes, the current will flow out of your battery (since it's voltage is lower) and damage the battery.&#xA; By the way this is a short-circuit -&gt; The current flows unthrottled through the wires which heats everything up causing a fire. &#xA;Assuming your battery is fully depleted after some time, what will be left is a battery (only one left) connected vice versa to your car. Not every component in your car can withstand this (some parts - like radios have a protection circuitery). &#xA;Fuses can only limit the currrent flow, but not it's direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:06:39.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18971" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:08:05.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this on a VW Passat.  The problem in that case was a malfunctioning condenser fan.  In cooler weather ambient temperature and air flow provided sufficient cooling to keep the high-side pressure within limits.  At higher temperatures, there was not enough cooling, and the pressure went high enough to trip the high-pressure switch, at which point warm air came from the vents.  So I would suggest a quick and easy check is to make sure that the condenser fan is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11690" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:08:05.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:31:30.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one connects a strong battery to a vehicle's electrical system with reversed polarity, nearly-unlimited current will flow through the alternator until it blows a fuse or fusible link, melts a wire or diode, or does something else catastrophic.  Reverse-connecting a strong battery to a nearly-depleted battery that was itself connected properly would do likewise, though the depleted battery would pass much of the current itself (likely doing significant damage to itself in the process) thus reducing the amount of current flowing elsewhere.  Note that reverse-connecting two batteries of equal strength cause damage equivalent to short-circuiting one battery.  If the batteries are of unequal strength, the weaker battery will be damaged more severely from that experience than it would be from a short-circuit, though if the weaker battery properly tied to its vehicle's electrical system enough current might detour through the electrical system to reduce the damage sustained by the weaker battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a hired &quot;professional&quot; connects a charging apparatus with reversed polarity, I would suggest that the customer should be entitled to have his vehicle inspected for electrical damage by a mechanic of his choosing, with the hired professional being responsible for the actual cost of his inspection or a typical mechanic's cost, whichever is less, along with the cost of repairing any electrical faults that are discovered and for which the reverse connection would be the lost likely cause.  Note that such an inspection should not only try to figure out the causes behind observed problems, but even more importantly should look for damage which has no symptoms but could undermine safety.  If a wire gets hot enough to destroy most of the insulation, such damage might have no immediate effect, but could lead to a later short circuit that might start a fire.  If a wire's insulation is compromised in a fashion that might affect safety, the &quot;professional&quot; should pay to have it replaced, without regard for whether it's causing any immediate trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9533" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:31:30.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19263" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:46:50.107" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Sentra 2007, 118k. It is well maintained (consistent checks at the Nissan shop), well, as much as possible assuming integrity of the shop. I am not a mechanic myself unfortunately. I went back to school and car was sitting in the parking lot of my building for the past 12 months. I took it for a drive 4-5 times, but otherwise it has been sitting idle. My question: what can dry out (like rubber, etc) or can get damaged otherwise in the idle car? This is probably a very broad question, and I know forum's policy about broad questions. If it is, I will delete or if you can help me rephrase the question, that would be great. I am planning a ~1500 km road trip (that's total) and will definitely service the car beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car:&#xA;- has the battery disconnected for the entire idle period;&#xA;- is stored in a not very dry, not very humid basement parking area with good airflow;&#xA;- was serviced 2000 km before putting it in &quot;idle mode&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, for real solid answer you would need way more details, but is there something that is very obvious that one should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I had a &quot;problem&quot; with is a squeaky belt on colder or rainy days (I am in Vancouver, Canada and it really rains here :)). It stops squeaking after 20-30 seconds after the start up, but I thought I'd mention. I wonder if that was more affected by staying idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11691" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T00:59:11.893" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T15:42:15.530" Title="What can dry or get damaged in a car after idle time?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:09:00.303" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all started about a year ago. I had to go to another city and the drive was about an hour long, it went perfectly fine. I left the car parked on the sun for about 2 hours, nothing special, on a region thats about 200 m over the sea level of my own region. The problem appeared when going back. About 5 minutes on the road back, the car suddenly stopped accelerating, as if the gas pedal was completely disconnected. We then proceeded to turn off the machine (after like 10 minutes idle) and turning it on again, and it worked. It worked fine for another 15 minutes before failing again, and this went on until I arrived. Fast forward a few months later and still has the same issue, but this time when the revs drop to about 1000 rpm, the engine idles roughly and the machine turns off, so all I do is keep it revving, but sometimes it just seems to ignore that the pedal is being pushed and drops to 1000 then dies. It went on like this for a few months and it's getting worse. Now it would die at any amount of rpms and also immediately after turning it on again, I don't even have a chance to rev up. I have to leave it off for about 30 minutes before being able to drive for another 5 minutes or so before it dies again, it even happens after turning it on from being cold (like in the morning, 6 am after being off for 12 hours). The catalytic converter light is also on, and it has been like this since even before the first incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? Many &quot;mechanics&quot; have told me it's the TPS sensor, some even say it's the whole computer. Some also say that their scanners didn't find anything. What would be the issue? Is it overheating? Is it the TPS? Is it some electrical issue? I am desperate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have to say that in the past I used to leave the tank almost empty and sometimes it'd dry completely. Now I don't though. I also remember once a truck hit the back of my car and the light of the trunk got stuck in ON and I noticed until when the battery died, about 20 days after. The car is a Chevrolet Corsa 2002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9866/gas-pedal-not-responding&quot;&gt;Gas pedal not responding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5130" LastEditorUserId="5130" LastEditDate="2019-09-22T19:28:35.243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T19:28:35.243" Title="Machine turns off randomly and won't start after staying off for a while" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:41:50.520" Score="3" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took off the timing belt and balancing belt before finding top dead center what can I do to get everything lined up before I put belt back on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11693" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T09:53:16.583" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T12:37:55.887" Title="honda accord 1997 2.2L timing belt" Tags="|timing-belt|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2015-08-10T02:57:09.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend just going to your local auto store and getting a terminal brush and battery cleaner. I have not personally used baking soda so I can't say for certain how well it can work but I have seen people use Coca Cola. While it does clear away corrosion buildup it leaves residue behind. I'm sure people say &quot;Well that's why you clean it afterwards&quot;, but even after cleaning it can leave some behind. For me I used terminal cleaner, a wire brush and after cleaning I put on a set of felt pads that came in the kit. That was 9 months ago and since then I've only had to take a small amount of surface corrosion off once. While baking soda may be cheaper since you already have it but paying a couple of bucks to get a decent kit is well worth it. More corrosion=Higher resistance in the circuit=More power than necessary being pulled to start the car=Premature battery failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11695" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T02:57:09.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T03:48:43.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle has been sitting unused for 3 months with a half tank of gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to burn through that half tank of fuel, or mix it with a fresh half tank and burn through that mixture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T08:37:56.673" Title="Burn through old gas or mix it?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19233" CreationDate="2015-08-10T08:09:51.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cannot siphon/extract the old fuel, it is better to dilute the old fuel with fresh fuel to reduce the likelihood of clogging up the fuel filter when you fire it up for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T08:37:56.673" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T08:37:56.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19231" CreationDate="2015-08-10T09:53:07.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the important pulleys (the crank, the camshaft(s) and anything else that is vital) will have alignment marks that you can use to align them - usually an indent on the pulley and a matching mark on the end of the block/head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key things to remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The parts are all designed to rotate together, so ideally you need to turn them all at the same time. As this probably isn't possible without the belt, you'll need to turn each of them a little bit, then the next in turn until they all line up. If you tried to line them up one at a time you could hit the pistons with the valves... This would be very tedious, so...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you temporarily refit the old belt and use that to roughly line it all up? Or have the parts already turned independently of each other?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft turns twice as fast as the cam. It shouldn't make any difference, but you might need to turn it by more than a full turn to get the top-end lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T09:53:07.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19239" CreationDate="2015-08-10T11:45:50.833" Score="17" ViewCount="85156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a car uses either MAP or MAF to determine the air flow index the engine is getting and that older cars used to have MAP and newer ones often use MAF and cars like the Mitsubishi EVO uses both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how they operate individually.(the principle mechanism)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantages/Disadvantages of each one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repercussions of either going bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to determine if one is going/gone bad.(CEL codes,symptoms)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images would be a plus if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T12:43:48.140" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T03:59:00.587" Title="What is the difference between a MAP and a MAF sensor" Tags="|air-intake|maf|manifold-absolute-pressure-sensor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19245" CreationDate="2015-08-10T11:55:38.730" Score="16" ViewCount="85466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four months ago, I had a seized brake in the front left. &#xA;The slide bearing was stuck and the outer pad was worn more than the inner (at the piston). I wasn't able to move the journals of the bearing by hand and used a tool to get it moving again.&#xA;Since cleaning the bearings didn't help, I removed any rust / oxidation from the holes with sandpaper, cleaned them,  and assembled new journals with lots of that special grease shipped with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the problem is back again, and I'm thinking about replacing the entire caliper to get rid of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should calipers be replaced on both sides, though there's just a problem on one side, as it's done for tires, pads and rotors?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Car is a small Kia Picanto (BA) 2008, just made 100,000km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calipers seem to be a single, solid part, without exchangeable bearings (the &quot;hole&quot;). As said, I already changed the journals (the movable part inside the hole) with temporary success, the brake is now running hot again. Hardly noticeable at low speed, but at 130-140km/h, I sometimes can hear that noise of a hot / worn brake again and the brake is significantly hotter than the one on the other wheel after that. (Also strange: sometimes, the noise is there at 120km/h, sometimes at 140km/h, sometimes, there is none)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I don't want to mess with new journals again, and have the same problem in some months. The brake got really hot last time, and I would like to replace it. I can get it for 100€, which is not so much compared to 17€ for new journals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T06:55:30.070" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T03:07:02.240" Title="Change calipers on both sides?" Tags="|brakes|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19237" CreationDate="2015-08-10T11:58:35.047" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;MAP = Manifold absolute pressure and is a sensor to measure vacuum, the computer calculates the engine air flow based on the vacuum, throttle position, and intake air temperature. The computer also measures the barometric pressure using the MAP sensor before the engine cranks, this lets the computer compensate for altitude, or how dense the air is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical GM MAP Sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u64qR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u64qR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAF = Mass Air Flow and is a sensor that measures the actual air flow going into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rcF7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rcF7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one above heats a wire and then measures how much the airflow cools it off so it can determine the air flow. While the one below just measures how much the airflow opens the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HuRl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HuRl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actual air flow (MAF) is more accurate than calculated air flow. Some cars have both MAP and MAF and use the MAP to fall back on if the MAF fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they fail it causes one or many of the following a very rough running engine, stalls, low power, black smoke as the ECM is delivering fuel based on air flow. They will also set codes related to their systems when there is a problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T12:13:31.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T12:13:31.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2015-08-10T12:21:12.287" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you don't replace calipers in pairs, only replace the damaged side. With that being said you may still not need to replace the caliper to solve your problem depending on the design. Their may be a kit that comes with new sleeves, o-rings, and grease. Replacing those will solve the problem, but again it depends on make, model, year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T12:21:12.287" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19231" CreationDate="2015-08-10T12:37:55.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to determine if the engine is interference or not.  If it is, rotating the cam(s) and crank independent of each other will destroy the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not interference - rotate away until everything lines up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interference - remove the cam(s), align the crank, reinstall cam(s) at proper alignment.  Since the belt is already off, removing the cam(s) should just be removing the valve cover(s) and a couple cam caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T12:37:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5419" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:38:41.337" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;its your alternator which is giving you the symtoms eventually within a week or so it will, leave you stranded, let me know if im right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11702" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:38:41.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9866" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:41:34.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up and in some cases not respond at all. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth operation by putting an ohmmeter on the leads. You may also try tromping on it a couple of times with the engine off. If you want to send reset the CPU, you need to let it sit for ~30 mins to ensure the residual power is gone. This is the first thing I would have tried as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:41:34.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:49:27.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I ask why you reported this question? You could have easily updated your &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9866/gas-pedal-not-responding&quot;&gt;previous&lt;/a&gt; question with the new details instead of posting the same question again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway as I was saying in my answer, I think it could be an issue with your gas pedal rheostat, if your car uses a DBW system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up and in some cases not respond at all. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth operation by putting an ohmmeter on the leads. You may also try tromping on it a couple of times with the engine off. If you want to send reset the CPU, you need to let it sit for ~30 mins to ensure the residual power is gone. This is the first thing I would have tried as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:49:27.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2015-08-10T14:15:05.513" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need for replacing the callipers together, as they will be heavy on your pocket, the reason why the pads and rotors are replaced together is since they work in tandem and working by rubbing against each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The callipers on the other hand float over the entire assembly so there is no real point of changing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;might need to change them both&lt;/strong&gt; there is a contamination in the brake fluid since there are chances they might block the piston so if one is affected the definitely the other will be affected. ( if you detect this issue asap then you can just bleed the system and you will not run into issue but if its too late then you need to change both)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it simply if the callipers are not jammed then there is no need to change them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in your case since your car has crossed over 100,000 miles , there will be similar type of wear on the other calliper as well , have a look at them once and then decide if you want to proceed changing them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T09:38:17.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T09:38:17.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:13:25.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often the calipers are replaced in pairs for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need one the other is not far behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one caliper is stronger or weaker than the other you may have a brake pull (vehicle pulls to one side when braking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back in the day when the phenolic piston was introduced it was said that both of your calipers needed to have a piston made from the same material (metal or phenolic) or you would get a brake pull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I will change just one caliper sometimes and I usually have no problem. So change the one that is giving you trouble and if necessary change the other one later when you get the time, money, or ambition to do it. If the wheel still gets hot you may want to replace the brake hose too. The inner part of the hose can become damaged and hold fluid pressure to the caliper causing the wheel to get hot and smelly. Just happened on my 1994 Honda Civic with 270,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11706" LastEditorUserId="6932" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T00:40:17.667" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T00:40:17.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T22:17:18.750" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for brake rotor and brake pad combination for good stopping power. My rotors warped after 185,000 miles. I am easy on my brakes; first set of pads lasted 150,000 miles. This is for a 2001 Ranger 2 wd; I do my own maintenance. I do not mind spending extra for quality.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11708" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T22:17:18.750" Title="Recommended rotor disc combination for Ranger truck. Normal usage" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-08-13T15:32:29.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19250" CreationDate="2015-08-10T23:46:52.900" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to activate the wiper fluid spray on the front windscreen of my car, the sprayer pump no longer activates (the wipers do though, after a short delay). It's quite a noisy pump, so I'd hear it running if the fluid had run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be caused by a blown fuse? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a multimeter, which I'd guess could be used to check the fuses (hopefully they'll be labelled)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1761" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T01:49:50.260" Title="Wiper fluid sprayer no longer works on Nissan Sunny 1997. Could it be a blown fuse?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19248" CreationDate="2015-08-11T01:49:50.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a blown fuse as you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be that the motor isn't receiving current due to a break in the wiring. The multimeter should come in handy to verify this - check to confirm that a voltage drop registers across the pump motor terminals when the wiper stalk is engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be that the motor in the pump has gone bad - check for continuity across the motor terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T01:49:50.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19257" CreationDate="2015-08-11T08:38:17.703" Score="5" ViewCount="4672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was helping out a friend yesterday who was facing some issues with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19253/675&quot;&gt;transmission-related CEL&lt;/a&gt; on his automatic 2003 Mazda6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we checked the ATF dipstick the transmission fluid was a clear light-pink color (so probably freshly-changed by a previous owner) and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;well above&lt;/strong&gt; the max level mark&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dipstick had two markings - 20 °C and 65 °C. It was well above the 65 °C mark when I checked it with the engine warm (say 60-80% higher). I also asked my friend to check the level later on with the engine cold. It was still well above the 65 °C mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the old fluid is discharged through a drain plug, then new fluid pumped in through a fill plug hole. Once the new fluid starts dripping out of the fill plug hole, the amount of fluid is at the &quot;right&quot; level. This is also confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/14758/675&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to a related question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, how is it possible that the transmission fluid was overfilled? Am I missing something? I suppose someone could have topped up through the dipstick channel itself but that doesn't seem like the right way to do this. Of course, I could be wrong about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that the dipstick might not reading the correct amount of transmission fluid due to some kind of internal blockage, especially since the ATF fluid looked pristine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T16:19:26.723" Title="How easy is it to overfill transmission fluid?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19251" CreationDate="2015-08-11T09:08:45.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What temperature was the fluid when you measured it? IIRC ATF expands quite a bit with heat, and you'll often see separate cold and hot marks on the dipstick...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T09:08:45.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T11:56:13.673" Score="4" ViewCount="6076" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is my reasoning here a plausible explanation for the issues described below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CEL on my friend's 2003 Mazda6 lit up yesterday, along with a flashing HOLD light. We hooked it up to a code scanner and found the following codes stored:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0767 - Shift solenoid 'D' Stuck On&#xA;P0841 - Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch &quot;A&quot; Circuit Range/Performance&#xA;P0733 - Gear 3 Ratio Incorrect&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was not shifting beyond a certain gear while the CEL was on. We used the scanner to clear the codes and CEL light and then went on a brief test drive in which the issue did not recur and the gear shifts were routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also found the transmission fluid was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; clean, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19251/675&quot;&gt;level was very high&lt;/a&gt;. I've requested the car to be taken to a mechanic where some of the excess can be drained out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friend says this is the first time this issue occurred. The unusual thing he did was drive the car immediately after starting it up; he normally leaves it to warm up slightly before driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's what I think happened&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is the P0841 is the reason behind the CEL, which was triggered by a combination of a request for Gear 3, the ATF level being too high and the fluid relatively cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is too much ATF in the transmission, I suspect that the pressure sensor may &quot;malfunction&quot; because it is reading an unexpectedly high pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also believe that the P0767 is just indicating that the transmission couldn't shift gears when needed, while P0733 is just indicating which gear it had trouble shifting into (Gear 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;On the contrary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that there really is a stuck solenoid inside the transmission, but the condition of the fluid on the dipstick leads me to think otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it could be that a previous owner attempted to fix this issue by refreshing the ATF (as opposed to routine preventative maintenance), but that is something that can only be verified by cracking the transmission open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T19:08:55.263" Title="Could too much transmission fluid cause problems?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19251" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:10:19.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that all automatic transmissions have drain/fill plugs. I had a 1993 Ford Explorer where this was the case - I had to drop the pan to drain it (and replace the filter) then had to refill it through the dipstick tube with a funnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being the case, I do not think it is outside the realm of possibility that the previous owner did not know about the fill plug. So, he drained it with the handy drain plug then filled it through the dipstick tube - that's what I would have done. I wouldn't have overfilled it though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T13:10:19.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11325" CreationDate="2015-08-11T14:20:50.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said ... &quot; When we first started noticing a problem with the air it would only work if we were driving fast like on the freeway.&quot; Is this still the case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn on the a/c does the engine's fan engage as well?  If not, the refrigerant is not properly cooling off in the condenser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, it is simple and free to figure out if this sensor is the culprit. The fan should engage when the a/c is in the recirculate mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More in depth troubleshooting instructions can be found here... &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/ford/27btu-2004-ford-freestar-pressure-sensor-high-pressure-half-way-tank.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.justanswer.com/ford/27btu-2004-ford-freestar-pressure-sensor-high-pressure-half-way-tank.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this as a reference if you are not sure where the switch is. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUInk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUInk.png&quot; alt=&quot;High side pressure switch. &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11712" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T14:20:50.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19251" CreationDate="2015-08-11T14:33:12.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars do not have drain plugs for the transmission in my experience. In fact, I have only seen it on one, which had a plug because the car had a permanent transmission filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is very easy to overfill transmission fluid.The link you posted is an example of a cavalier. GM took out the dipstick to prevent inept owners from overfilling the transmission (at least that's their story). Frankly, it's annoying, but if someone can jack up a car and put it on jack stands, they probably know what they're doing with regards to filling a transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the tranny, get a new filter, drop the pan,use a graduated drain pan to measure how much came out,  look for an excess of metal shavings at the bottom of the transmission pan, these are a real cause for concern, put in the new filter, refill to what the dipstick says is the right amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drained 7 quarts, but only put back in 5, it was obviously overfilled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11712" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T14:33:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:02:36.440" Score="3" ViewCount="5339" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my car -&gt;(1990 Honda Accord EX Sedan 4 door 5 speed manual) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok this is the first time I have ever seen a leak from my car. I bought it in Primo condition &amp;amp; I only use it for errands around town. 2 days ago, I noticed white smoke or steam coming from under the hood I just happened to be near Auto Zone so I pulled in &amp;amp; asked one of the guys to come look as I was looking at the leak as well it was spot after spot into the driveway &amp;amp; a puddle of coolant. So I drove home &amp;amp; let her sit awhile before I checked the radiator &amp;amp; it was bone dry so instead of wasting my anti freeze I filled her up with H2O took a drive came back no leakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Looked again this morning &amp;amp; the radiator is still full.. My question is what just happened to my car &amp;amp; why isn't the water leaking out now?  I'm entertaining the idea of taking my car to a shop, because I don't know what to check for &amp;amp; I don't want to get ripped off. what should I do? Thanks folks, I hope you have some answers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11713" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T15:19:01.000" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:02:15.943" Title="STEAM coming from under the hood?" Tags="|honda|coolant|accord|radiator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9847" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:16:17.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;my sisters malibu maxx had multiple fuel pump problems, turns out the wiring at the tank had an intermittent short&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11714" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T15:16:17.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T13:10:22.343" Score="3" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my car paint has been damaged, I suspect it got hit by a little stone and the paint bursted. The bursts is not very nice but is very hard to notice because they are just about 3 cm long and very narrow. However, at the end a hole of about 1cm by 2mm has formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole is not big but really stands out because it exposes the white plastic bumper underneat. I am aware that I could probably bring it to a garage for a spot repair, but the minimum quote for that is about 150 euro so I will not be doing that. Especially as I expect to get rid of the car in one or two months. Hence my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What is the best I can do to disguise this hole on a shoestring budget?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of max 25 euro/dollar for something that makes my car look decent when I visit people, It is a black citroen and so far the best I came up with is just grabbing a permanent marker to make the underlying plastic black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Carson" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T01:12:16.163" Title="Cheap repair of hole in car paint" Tags="|repair|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19260" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:15:07.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local auto parts store should have touch-up pens. It's just a matter of finding a decent match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10140" OwnerDisplayName="Drew" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T15:15:07.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19258" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:18:51.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car overheated and the coolant leaked out of the overflow bottle. It happened a couple of times with my Opel Astra Coupe and my Subaru Forester too. If you're really lucky, nothing major is wrong with your car, but I'd advise a compression test just to be safe. The danger here is that BECAUSE the car overheated and all the coolant was lost, you may have a warped cylinder head that &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; cause a blown headgasket if it hasn't blown already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T15:18:51.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19229" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:42:15.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the tires for dry rot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you put an additive in the gas before storing it, try to siphon out the old gas and put fresh gasoline in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone already noted, the belt is probably due for replacement, if that does not stop squealing, it may be caused by the belt tensioner going out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the hoses, would probably be unnecessary to change them considering the relatively young age of the vehicle, but obviously if something is cracked, change it. If there's something leaking, investigate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you do these things and you go to crank it for the first time, take out the relay for the fuel pump and crank the car for a few seconds (no more than 10) to circulate the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the fuel pump relay back in and start it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure someone will chime in if I missed something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11712" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T15:42:15.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T15:49:32.263" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stereo wont play after jumpstarting my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11716" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T01:33:54.463" Title="I recently jump started my 2004 pontiac grand prix gtp that has a Pioneer model fh-x700bt stereo. It now doesn't work. what could be wrong?" Tags="|pontiac|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19156" CreationDate="2015-08-11T16:13:00.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch actuator that pushes the clutch pushrod for the the throwout bearing and the pressure plate from the left side of the engine to the right side of the engine through the primary shaft has a ball and ramp setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By removing the inner actuator for the ball and ramp that has a worm screw actuator you can add a groove by pushing the actuator into the female side of the ball and ramp a groove lower.  This will allow for more leverage in order to actually open the clutch basket up and disengaging the clutch thereby allowing the transmission to spin free of the crank when you pull in the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T16:13:00.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19251" CreationDate="2015-08-11T16:19:26.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I have done in the past: Just drain some fluid out, then top off thru filler tube using funnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/126047-draining-6s-automatic-transmission-fluid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/126047-draining-6s-automatic-transmission-fluid.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11717" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T16:19:26.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T17:34:09.000" Score="7" ViewCount="27095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Honda Civic LX with about 70k miles on it. As of a few weeks ago the AC really started having cooling problems; however, this all seemed to happen gradually. It seems to get a bit colder if the engine is revved but at idle on max AC you can barely tell that it's on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can see the compressor engaging with no hesitation and staying on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blower fan seems to be normal, putting out the usual amount of air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The condenser fan turns on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I touch the low pressure AC tubing it seems very cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't seem to matter how long the AC is running it usually stays the same temperature unless the RPM increases.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have checked the pressure of the refrigerant on the low tubing and it seemed normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I added a few psi of freon out of desperation with no change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not seem normal for a four year old car. After some research I did see people having similar problems but none as specific as mine. I am not sure where else to start looking. Let me know if more info is needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*Update July 2018&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking the car to a Honda dealer and $1200 later the AC worked again. They told me there was an issue with the compressor clutch so they ended up replacing both the clutch and compressor all together. I tried to get them to warranty the work at the time with no luck.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFTER 2.5 YEARS IT BROKE AGAIN! It seem to go out in a similar way as it did last time. It would be cold for the first 5-10 mins of the drive then hot. This time the compressor clutch doesn't engage and condenser fan does not come on. After taking it to my mechanic and watching him diagnose it, we are leaning towards the the compressor being shot. When he put power directly to the clutch bypassing the AC relay (which was the first thing I replaced with no luck) you could see and hear the engine struggle as power was applied and eventually caused it to stall the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a different issue then the previous issue where it seems instead of it being the compressor clutch it looks like the compressor itself has seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now time to decide if I want to put a 3rd compressor in a car that's worth $3,500 on a good day. Really disappointed in Honda after all this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11719" LastEditorUserId="11719" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T14:06:57.603" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T14:06:57.603" Title="Air Conditioning not cold on 2011 Honda civic" Tags="|honda|civic|ac|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30229" CreationDate="2015-08-11T18:16:31.517" Score="19" ViewCount="180684" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to push start a car with automatic transmission?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use case: Let's say the battery is dead or you have a bad starter. I know this can be done on manual cars by putting the car in to gear after the car starts moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you do the same with an automatic transmission? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the automatic transmission type matter? (traditional torque converter, CVT, DCT, etc.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:47:17.080" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T18:00:03.240" Title="Push start a car with automatic transmission" Tags="|starting|automatic-transmission|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19253" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:39:30.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the transmission was indeed overfilled. The owner said that a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of transmission fluid had to be drained to restore parity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is still early to confirm that the issue is no longer present, there are some immediate benefits. The gear shifts feel a lot quicker than before and the brakes feel better than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update this post in case of further developments or if the issue returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Developments&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same three codes returned today after the car was driven without letting it warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid level is appropriate according to the dipstick both when hot and cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner also noted that when the accelerator is pressed with the gear in 'D' for the first time after startup the transmission engages after some delay with a jolt, similar to how a manual car jolts forward after revving slightly and dumping the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T19:08:55.263" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T19:08:55.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T21:19:34.927" Score="3" ViewCount="31086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Ford Escape with 95,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the car that when I put the key in and turn, the car doesn't crank. The lights come on when the key is turned, but there's no sound and the lights do not flicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this problem to be the ignition switch. I had a garage tell me that it was months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So today I went to have it fixed at a different place and the mechanic told me that it was not the switch, but the switch and lock cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense? I don't have any issues turning the key, but to start the car I basically have to push the key in and turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called a locksmith to get a price on the cylinder and he tells me it's not the cylinder, but something electrical like the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to avoid paying any more than needed, but I can't seem to get a straight answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11722" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T17:07:36.543" Title="Ignition Switch vs. Ignition Lock Cylinder" Tags="|ford|ignition|escape|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19271" CreationDate="2015-08-11T21:33:15.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The absence of a clicking sound indicates that the starter relay isn't energizing the starter circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Starter relay&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could well be that the solenoid inside relay is sticking, preventing the switch on the starter side from closing and turning the engine over. This would explain why you do not hear the starter relay click (complete silence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad ignition switch&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ignition switch isn't completing the circuit to the starter relay, the car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend testing the starter relay first since it is the easiest to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T21:33:15.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:37:26.313" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;05 jeep wrangler .The link that connects my rear sway bar to the rear end housing. What's it called. where can I buy a replacement. To be welded or fit in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T03:47:39.787" Title="05 jeep wrangler rear sway bar connection is broken" Tags="|suspension|jeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:08:29.263" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently had head shaved and replaced (about ten days ago) and am now seeing a creamy cocoa colored sludge in radiator but no water in oil. What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11725" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T00:08:20.473" Title="sludge in radiator after shaving head 2005 Hyyndai Elantra manual transmission" Tags="|oil|hyundai|radiator|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T01:09:37.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies in advance if this question has been asked before; I'm not familiar enough with cars to identify or make speculations on the relative source of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAR DETAILS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1999 Toyota Avalon XLS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE PROBLEM:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;strong&gt;grinding, tinny sound&lt;/strong&gt; coming from my wheel on the rear right-hand side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been driving around regularly and my car was not making this sound until only recently. Except for a bumpy road (small potholes, dips, bumps) I take on a normal basis, I have not had anything serious happen while I was driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sound can be heard when I drive at low speeds (10-20 mph). It can also be heard consistently as I drive and no matter how fast I drive, although it seems to intensify if I speed up and fade away when I make turns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the video below for a demonstration: (&lt;em&gt;headphones users - caution!&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/MMhsIckC4kQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/MMhsIckC4kQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some things I know:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My tires are somewhat under pressure, but that should not be what's causing the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brake caliper in the right rear wheel seems to be in place and not loose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I drive on a rather bumpy road regularly, so the problem may be related to the suspension system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone have any insight on:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The source and reason for the sound&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possible ways to fix the problem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A possible range of expenses to fix the problem&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and insight would be appreciated! I'm not particular familiar with auto parts and mechanics, so simple-worded explanations would be nice :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11724" LastEditorUserId="11724" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T01:15:46.233" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T06:22:59.913" Title="Wheel bearing noise?" Tags="|toyota|noise|wheels|avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19273" CreationDate="2015-08-12T02:32:38.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Um... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/parts/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/sway-bar-link/duralast-sway-bar-link/jeep/wrangler-4wd/2005/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-sfi/761248_0_0_4145/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duralast Rear Sway Bar Link&lt;/a&gt; for your vehicle on AutoZone.com.  Part number &lt;code&gt;EL159&lt;/code&gt;.  It's just called a &lt;code&gt;sway bar link&lt;/code&gt; and in the description it specifies front or rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the same part whether you have the 4 cylinder or the 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On RockAuto.com, it's called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1430906&amp;amp;parttype=7580&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stabilizer Bar Link&lt;/a&gt; and in the description it specifies front or rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T02:37:56.760" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T02:37:56.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19275" CreationDate="2015-08-12T09:13:28.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jack the back of the car up, and spin the wheels by hand - comparing the two sides so you can tell what's different on the bad side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to shake the wheel vertically and horizontally - a worn wheel bearing will have more play in it than a good one. When spinning the wheel without load, a worn wheel bearing will make a slight rumbling sound, and might seem slightly lumpy (if it does, it's REALLY worn!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect, however, that your sound is more likely to be worn brakes. Inspect all four pads on the rear axle (you may have to remove the wheels to see them clearly) - most likely one or both on the noisy side will be worn right down. If so, replace all four. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake pads on one side are worn significantly more than the other, get the caliper and parking brake inspected as well - one or other might be sticking and causing more wear. If when you try to spin the wheel, it's much harder to turn than the other side, then this is almost certainly the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T09:13:28.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T09:56:38.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Camry 2005, the car was taken to a mechanic for oil change out and according to the mechanic he opened the transmission down plate and remove the valve body and serviced it which I didn't ask him to. After reinstalling the valve body and the plate the gears are no longer engaging and when it engages it won't move from first to second I believe the mechanic has damage my transmission or what might be the actual problem. Any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11729" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T14:03:54.423" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T19:02:32.460" Title="Toyota Camry 2005 automatic gears won't engage" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:00:57.673" Score="2" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can purchase / add a key to a Nissan NATS based system other than getting charged through the nose by a dealership?  My car is a 99 Nissan Almera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T11:32:19.687" Title="Adding a key to Nissan NATS system" Tags="|nissan|key|security|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19280" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:44:48.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for your region, but where I am there are several locksmith/key shops able to cut and program the blank key for a fraction of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T11:32:19.687" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T11:32:19.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19287" CreationDate="2015-08-12T11:43:09.883" Score="4" ViewCount="31275" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the effects of dirty ( allot of carbon build-up ) piston heads and intake valves?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just used an endoscope to take a look at my piston heads while changing my spark plugs and the heads had quite significant carbon build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm curious, &lt;strong&gt;in general&lt;/strong&gt;, what the common effects of this carbon build up can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a screen capture of one of my piston crowns, it's the only one which had a bit of a clear patch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5KKH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5KKH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T10:37:54.743" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:37:54.743" Title="Effects of Dirty Piston Heads and Intake Valves" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19330" CreationDate="2015-08-12T11:46:03.490" Score="2" ViewCount="3558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that, when I first start my car, there is an intermittent popping or clicking sound coming from up near the engine (sometimes it almost sounds like a very quick burst of air escaping a high pressure valve - sort of a quick PFFFT). It happens maybe every 6 or 7 seconds when the car is accelerating or moving. It will not happen when the car is idle. About 5 or 6 minutes into my drive, the sound will stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue started this Spring (4 or 5 months ago) and has been getting progressively worse over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that the issue only occurs when I have the A/C on. If the A/C is off, I never hear the noise. There does not seem to be anything wrong with the A/C, however. It's still cold, the fan runs fine, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this could be? I'm mostly wondering if it's an annoyance or something that I should be worried about. If it's just an annoyance, I can live with some noise - I wouldn't be driving a Kia Rio if I wanted luxurious transportation. However, if it could be an indication of a broader problem with my car, I obviously want to fix it before it gets worse and causes a potentially more costly repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've asked about this issue before, though I had significantly less information at the time, and I thought it was engine-related.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:56:12.300" Title="Popping Sound when A/C is on - 2009 Kia Rio" Tags="|engine|ac|kia|rio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19283" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:38:12.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source of the &lt;em&gt;pffft&lt;/em&gt; sound is the AC system's expansion valve. It is normal to hear it when the AC engages/disengages; it doesn't indicate that the expansion valve has an issue per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;However,&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what is not normal is that the AC is cycling on and off so frequently. 6-7 seconds tells me that something is disengaging the compressor clutch. This could be abnormally high pressure or abnormally low pressure (likely low pressure since the issue goes away after some driving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that no AC-related work has been performed on the vehicle, I'm inclined to believe that there may be insufficient refrigerant or presence of debris in the line. I strongly recommend checking the AC's high-side and low-side pressures against the values which Kia is expecting for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T12:38:12.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19282" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:54:34.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon build-up (CBU) impairs the ability of the valves to properly seat, resulting in lack of compression, which leads to loss of engine torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the vehicle is equipped with AIR (secondary-air pump), CBU in secondary air tracts prevents the emissions-control from functioning properly during cold starts. If bad enough, this can lead to the clogging up of catalytic converters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exhaust tracts can get clogged over time from CBU, resulting in cold spots in the combustion chamber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T12:58:09.210" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T12:58:09.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2015-08-12T13:30:30.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience, my old Mazda 323-C Auto could be bump started at a speed of around 34mph (which is far too fast to push!).  This was a traditional type auto box so I don't know how it would differ for something with a CVT / DSG gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to carry jump leads in the boot of this car as the most effective way to starting any car but certainly an automatic with a flat battery is to jump the car using another car or a jumper pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your started motor is dead, check that the exciter cable is alright and without breaks as this can stop the starter spinning over.  Is this a real world problem?  If so, what is the make and model of the vehicle and what are the symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T13:30:30.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19282" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:23:06.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon Build up on the valves and the exhaust is very common for any old engine no matter how you maintain it , its the by product of the combustion of gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issues due to carbon build-up on the valves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clogs the valves thus allowing less fuel/air to get inside the cylinder thus reducing power and efficiency of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The above point can cause an uneven power stroke causing engine knock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since fuel is not properly burned it will increase the emissions and might fail pollution test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The EGR or Exhaust Gas Recirculation will now be sending the bad exhaust into the engine. increasing the carbon build up further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However carbon buildup is not something which affects only one parameter of a car, it can affect the air/fuel intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abstracts from &lt;a href=&quot;http://audisrs.com/archive/effects-of-carbon-build-up__o_t__t_15813.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here &lt;/a&gt;shows it affects additional parameters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon contributes to abnormal combustion in several ways, but the most dramatic effect in a modern fuel injected engine is the &amp;quot;sponge effect&amp;quot;. As the fuel mixture in the cylinder is compressed, the carbon has a tendency to absorb both oxygen and fuel. Once the ignition spark fires, the flame front normally spreads through the chamber, consuming the fuel and air, however, the carbon has a tendency to extinguish the flame front and stifle combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, combined with the fuel and air that was absorbed, results in poor efficiency. As the chamber decompresses during the exhaust portion of the stroke, the unburned fuel and air is released, resulting in both excessive fuel and air (containing oxygen) entering the exhaust system. The O2 sensor detects the excessive oxygen and the vehicle computer (ECM, ECU, PCM) compensates for this by enriching the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:23:06.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19279" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:28:49.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The responsibilities for this rest squarely on the shop that did the work. If it was working when you took it to them, you didn't ask for the transmission service and they did it anyway, and immediately following the transmission does not work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with that removing the valve body is not part of a normal transmission service so I am not sure why they would have done that in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:28:49.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:34:23.193" Score="4" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project to look at fuel consumption on different roads and I need the OBD reader to log the GPS coordinates every time it takes a reading.&#xA;I'm looking at instantaneous fuel consumption, so I also need it to be reading the parameters rather quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Autotap software takes 70ms per reading per parameter, so the 7 parameters I need take almost a half second to log which isn't enough resolution.&#xA;Any advice on how to get more frequent readings, and how to incorporate GPS coordinates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11736" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:34:23.193" Title="Integrating Fast OBD Readings and GPS" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|gps|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:49:16.923" Score="1" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Ford Explorer developed a weak defrost late in the winter (I don't drive it all that much) and now in summer the air conditioning has a very weak air flow -- doesn't cool anything. I'm sure it's in the blower (last oil change guy said as much) but I'm afraid a dealer/service person will charge me an arm and a leg to do something radical. Just around 115,000 miles; no other mechanical issues ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like an idea of what exactly would have to be done if it's just a blower issue. A dealer currently has the vehicle and will come back to me tomorrow with some kind of diagnosis/estimate. Can an independent mechanic work with blowers? How do I know any estimate will not be ripping me off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11737" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T13:25:21.190" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T22:24:27.423" Title="Ford Explorer Weak Air Flow Defrost/Air Conditioning" Tags="|ford|ac|hvac|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19283" CreationDate="2015-08-12T18:58:19.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggested insufficient refrigerant or debris, it could also be a pressure safety sensor going bad. That can cause the compressor to cycle on and off even if you have a full charge.  Keep that in the back of your mind if it's not the other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:58:19.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T19:54:21.007" Score="1" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bass on my Accord is really muddy and indistinct. I'm thinking of replacing rear deck speakers and subwoofer, but I am also wondering if this will have any effect, i.e. would I be wasting my money on new speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:54:21.007" Title="Muddy bass on my 2014 Honda Accord Coupe w/7 speaker system" Tags="|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19292" CreationDate="2015-08-12T19:54:21.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some research on muddy bass, I discovered this is mainly due to the ANC (Active Sound Cancelation) cancelling out the bass from the speakers. Apparently the good engineers at Honda aren't able to figure out how not to cancel out the bass from the sound system. And there is no provision to turn ANC off.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; I found several recommendations suggesting that disabling the rear ANC microphone will bring back the bass response by cutting the wire for that microphone. However, I thought there may be other alternatives, so I tried placing something over the mic to lessen its sensitivity. I discovered that the most effective method was a self-adhesive 3/4 inch felt pad taped over the microphone grill. I initially tried a 3/8 inch pad. It helped, but the larger size works best.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;What I like about this solution is that I get better bass without completely disabling the ANC. The mic still picks up the road noise conducted to it via the car's frame. It's also really cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:54:21.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19290" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:44:35.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common failure point that is often overlooked is the &lt;em&gt;final stage resistor&lt;/em&gt;. This part is responsible for controlling the speed of the fan blower (which is why I asked about the fan speed operation in the comment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fan blower itself, it is a mechanical component that doesn't fail as easily. Unless the motor is part of the blower unit and the brushes have burnt out I don't see a reason to change it. However, one possible reason for low flow could be the accumulation of dust or dirt that is limiting the fan's ability to throw air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T20:53:04.180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:53:04.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T22:24:10.243" Score="1" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without using a battery charger, about how long will a 12V vehicle battery last while sitting connected in an unused vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, how often do you need to drive a vehicle in order to keep the battery from going bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Obviously, using a trickle charger (preferably solar!) or disconnecting the battery will help extend the life of the battery, but I am interested in the answer when no charger is used and the battery is connected.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T22:24:10.243" Title="How long will a 12V vehicle battery last if vehicle not used?" Tags="|battery|starting|cold-start|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T23:44:47.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T22:54:07.027" Score="3" ViewCount="71379" Body="&lt;p&gt;For non-synthetic oil, how long can you go without changing the oil if you regularly only use a vehicle a couple times per month, for 30 miles per drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a total of only 1000-1500 miles/year, but the vehicle is consistently driven once every 1-3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence-based answers will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is a similar question on this site, but I am interested in answers for much lower levels of annual mileage than that question specified.  The mileage specified in that question is within normal oil change intervals for some vehicles, but to my knowledge, 1000-1500 annual miles is below any manufacturer's oil change interval.  Thanks!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T04:31:21.970" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T04:31:21.970" Title="How often to change oil if vehicle gets under 1500 miles per year?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-08-13T15:32:16.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19297" CreationDate="2015-08-13T00:29:50.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For non-synthetic, I think the rule of thumb is to change the oil twice a year at bare minimum - once in the spring, once in the fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that after six months, the oil (and the detergents in it) break down and can no longer do their jobs properly, regardless of mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm only saying six months because that's what people older than me have always said. You could always &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackstone-labs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get your old oil analysed (or do it yourself)&lt;/a&gt; after a change to see how much life is left in it after six months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11215" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T00:29:50.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T07:15:33.517" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some European countries, such as Croatia, you're required to carry a set of spare bulbs for all lights required by law with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not that much into cars, I'm really unsure what spare bulbs I exactly need for my VW T4. Does this mean I need a spare bulb for both headlights, both back lights, both hazard lights, both break lights and the fog light? If so, how do I find out which spare lamb bulbs do fit into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T08:39:57.337" Title="VW T4: Which spare bulbs do I need to carry with me?" Tags="|vw|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2015-08-13T08:24:06.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got this Mechanical ABS from Shopclues.com at 549 rupees including shipping charges. I installed it and checked. Found it to be good enough, but doesn't work when applied full sudden brake and that is what is said by many dealers online. Proper electronic ABS with speed sensors and ECU cannot be installed manually in most bikes, atleast in india it is not possible, forget about the cost. And this atleast works in my observation 80%. After few days of observation I have ordered one for the other disc also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the ones suggesting better riding technique and control, please try to understand human psychology. The techniques and control will not be of any use in a panic situation when you would have applied the brake abruptly even before your brain analyses the situation, since as you know these riding things (applying brakes, holding clutch, reducing accelerator) are all done automatically even when our mind and brain are somewhere else. In panic scenarios, it is even worse. I personally was a victim of such panic situations and also seen few such instances). And finally the golden work 'Something is better than nothing'. Especially for the price. And you are not going to lose anything out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this Mechanical ABS has been tested by few companies and personals. So it is not some fake business. There are people who just assume and talk/write and there people who just do the analysis/testing/checking and come to a valid conclusion. I have done the later part. Please do your homework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please forgive me if my writing sounds hurting. Not intentional. I just feel sorry for the people who are ill-informed and over-confident with their half-baked knowledge and assumptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11741" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T08:24:06.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19299" CreationDate="2015-08-13T08:39:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most automotive suppliers should be able to tell you which bulbs you need. If you're in the UK, Halfords have a book on each shelf listing most major cars and the parts required, and they used to (I don't know if they still do) sell complete bulb kits for some cars - consisting of all the bulbs you'd need in a single plastic box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the headlights are the same, all four main indicators are the same, and the tail-lights on both sides are the same - so you'd only need one of each, although you might prefer to have two for safety (after all, if one fails, and you use the spare, you then wouldn't have another...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T08:39:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T08:40:02.777" Score="0" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;pickup trucks are designed to carry heavy load at the back and can be RWD or 4WD. RWD is significantly cheaper and lower maintenance hence attractive. However an unloaded RWD pickup has next to nothing weight-wise on the rear wheels and I would imagine it is extremely slippery in the wet to the point of not driveable. How true is this? Do they normally come with electronic stability control? How effective is it in the case of an unloaded RWD pickup in the wet? I think US made pickup trucks are quite different and therefore not discussed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:13:25.220" Title="What does it feel like to drive an unloaded RWD Japanese pickup truck in the wet?" Tags="|pick-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T08:45:29.577" Score="8" ViewCount="2397" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my car the music of my car radio stops playing almost every time when I press the clutch. It does not always stop, but probably in 80% of the cases. It never stops when I do not press the clutch. The stops have a length between 1 and 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no clue what this could be. Where should I look at for an error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T12:30:20.733" Title="Music stops playing when pressing the clutch down" Tags="|vw|clutch|audio|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T09:16:41.620" Score="4" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 vauxhall corsa that lost all power. I've recharged the battery (now 12.5 V) but when I connect the terminals a whirring sound(like a fan) comes from a small box to the front left of the fuse box  - this is with no ignition on.  I've no idea what this component is but suspect if it's running whilst the ignition is off then it will be constantly draining the battery.&#xA;Any help please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T19:19:43.963" Title="vauxhall corsa 2003 no power" Tags="|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19302" CreationDate="2015-08-13T09:49:28.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter if its US made or Japanese Made, a RWD pick up truck usually has 65:35 weight distribution , unloaded, they will tend to fishtail in the wet if not driven carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not say most vehicles are &quot;Undriveable&quot; a light foot can always be helpful otherwise manufacturers wont sell RWD pickups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to this issue is to buy a vehicle with traction control or buy a 4WD pick up or load the back with sand bags so that there is some weight on the rear axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles like the Toyota Tundra have Traction control and LSD with computer aid to monitor wheel slip. To answer your question the TCS reduces the power sent to the rear wheels on detecting wheel slip. The LSD helps when one wheel starts rotating faster than another, as it locks the axles together so they rotate together, theoretically giving more power to the wheel that's not losing traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions is to check if the tyres have good treads if the the tyres are bald then you will fishtail a lot and then the &quot;undriveability&quot; comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T10:13:25.220" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:13:25.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19290" CreationDate="2015-08-13T09:50:11.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you try the different stages of the fan, how does the flow change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stage resistors are responsible for the intermediate stages by, well, putting resistors in the line. But the highest stage should always work. So, if there is a problem with the intermediate stages, that resistors would be the first part to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you increase the stage, does the flow in general increase? May be to you hear the fan spinning faster / the whole thing gets louder? Then the air flow may be blocked somewhere. Check / replace the filter of the ventilation system.&#xA;Once, I also noticed that the highest stage was louder, but didn't develop more flow than the stage below. The filter was very clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just these days, the performance started to drop again. This time, I found these in my filter together with lots of residues from their owner:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBJuQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBJuQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T09:50:11.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19303" CreationDate="2015-08-13T10:18:11.580" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saxperience.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-124998.html&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; that the issue could be down to certain earth wires. When depressing the clutch pedal, you may be earthing a electrical line going to the sound system which in turn stops the music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are various earths located in the engine bay. Check around the inner wings etc and make sure all of them are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11074" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:18:11.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T10:35:29.220" Score="6" ViewCount="2870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to have the cylinder of my 2004 TT600RE motorcycle rebored (because it's damaged, not to increase power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual says the piston size is 95mm and the compression ratio is 8.5 : 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wiseco-Motorcycle-Piston-Kit-96mm-11-5-1-Yamaha-TT-600-1984-2004-TR-4596M09600-/131515440661?hash=item1e9eee5e15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ebaying&lt;/a&gt; a 96mm Wiseco piston kit for this engine to save money, but it says the compression ratio is 11.5 : 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does boring 1mm off the cylinder alone increase the compression ratio by that much? Am I looking at the wrong piston model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there pistons that will give a similar compression ratio to the original? I'll be traveling in places with bad fuel (Africa) so this seems important. What are other considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: on the Wiseco website it lists two seemingly identical 96mm pistons for this bike, one with 11.5:1 compression and one with &quot;STD&quot; compression. However, both are 96mm and have a 84mm stroke. One is $184 and the other $196. Have no idea what accounts for the compression ratio difference, and assume from the answers that it must be a typo. Any other thoughts would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11593" LastEditorUserId="11593" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T13:42:13.227" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T13:42:13.227" Title="Reboring a cylinder: compression ratio of new piston" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19324" CreationDate="2015-08-13T10:50:37.687" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to do a little bit of a &quot;scientific&quot; test to see how well a homebrew seafoam type mixture will dissolve carbon deposits on the cylinder crowns.  I thought of simply taking the plugs out and introducing a measured amount of the mixture into each cylinder with a syringe.  However, I don't want to put in too much and cause a hydrolock situation. How can I figure out what is a safe amount?  In general, and in my specific case.  In my specific case, I have a Nissan 1.6L 4 cylinder GA16DE engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:05:49.193" Title="How Much Liquid Can I Put In My Cylinders Safely?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2015-08-13T10:57:43.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a Ballade 150i Vti motor and also want to do something about the motor I did some research and found out that the quick way of gaining power is to add a turbo to the motor. I question was that will my motor be damaged easily. I discovered that I Make 67 kw on the wheel at the moment but if I put a T3/T4 turbo on the motor and Software, I will turn the boost max to 0.6 and the vti Motor will do about 176kw and 290NM on the wheel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbo and intercooler might cost you about 8K at the end and then just put everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11744" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:57:43.630" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19308" CreationDate="2015-08-13T11:25:21.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way that a 1 mm increase in bore diameter will change compression ratio that drastically unless the stroke is changed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rough calculations indicate that the change in bore will result in a new compression ratio of &lt;strong&gt;8.66:1&lt;/strong&gt;¹. Even though you're not after power per se, the higher CR should translate to more torque. A rebored piston will also increase the engine's displacement by around 13 cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the eBay item doesn't look like a 'stroker' kit (no connecting rod included), so it looks like item is either incorrectly labeled or is intended for a different engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to get in touch with the vendor to clarify this concern before considering its purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_tt_600_re_2004.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Assuming bore = 95 mm, stroke = 84 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T18:56:39.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T18:56:39.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2015-08-13T12:19:42.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having driven a bus with a non-synchro gearbox and a wet clutch, I understand the meaning behind &quot;stuck in neutral&quot; - for if you didn't slide it into first before coming to a halt, there was no getting it into first without suffering the embarrassment of shutting down the engine. The habit dies hard; synchro or not, I still hold at a light in first gear, engine running, clutch fully depressed and some pressure on the service brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11745" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T12:19:42.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19303" CreationDate="2015-08-13T12:30:20.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) The pedal/cable is hitting something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) The Neutral Safety Switch on the clutch being triggered is causing issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do:&#xA;Google it (along with your year/model), find forums for your car and see if anyone else has had this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check around your pedal/cable to see if anything is touching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the grounds on your radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the wiring diagrams for your car, see if there is any link between the clutch switch and the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poke around with a test light.  Connect it to the positive and negative leads to the radio, hit the clutch.  Connect to known good ground, test.  known good positive, test.  Follow the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T12:30:20.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19297" CreationDate="2015-08-13T12:30:58.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the answers in the linked question, the various additives in the oil break down over time, so the limit isn't just the number of miles done. Quite often your service interval will be listed as &quot;X miles or Y time, whichever is the soonest&quot; for this exact reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I think I'd do it once a year, but that's just my opinion without any scientific backup...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind also that other parts will suffer from not being used, just as much as they would from over-use. For example, brake discs will rust while the vehicle is sitting, and so will cause more wear to the pads when restarted, so they won't last as many miles as in a regularly used car. You'll also need to keep an eye on rubber components (hoses, belts and tyres), as they will begin to perish long before their normal replacement mileages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T12:30:58.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19308" CreationDate="2015-08-13T12:55:41.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the height of the new piston above the rod connection centerline is greater than for the old piston, that will increase the compression ratio quickly. For the assumption made by Zaid on the stroke, a height change of 3.2 mm will produce that new compression.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case (taller piston) you would also need to wonder about valve clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T12:55:41.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19309" CreationDate="2015-08-13T13:35:39.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid cannot compress.  The volume of the cylinder is smallest when the cylinder is at TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you know things like piston dish volume, head combustion chamber volume, head gasket thickness, you can calculate this volume.  I am assume you do not know these values...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do.  Set the engine to TDC on #1.  Pull the plug.  Fill up the cylinder.  This is the maximum amount the cylinder can hold.  I would then remove about 20% of that leaving 80% in the cylinder.  Before starting your engine, suck out as much as you can.  You might even want to crank the engine over with the spark plugs out.  Be sure to clean the surrounding area before pulling the plugs to make sure nothing can get sucked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that your rings are not 100% sealed.  Some of this mixture CAN leak past and get into your oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would not add the mixture directly in the spark plug hole.  I've always added seafoam/power foam through a vacuum line or the throttle body on a running engine.  This also ensures the valves get cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:35:39.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19327" CreationDate="2015-08-13T14:13:49.917" Score="3" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dodge caravan 2012 and I recently got an electronic anti-rust device installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 weeks after, I experienced a first problem.  I started the engine then it stopped after 2 seconds.  I restarted it and it worked (the radio hour has been reset to 12:00)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 weeks later, I tried to start the engine but nothing happened... there was absolutely no power coming from the battery.  My first reaction was to blame the electronic anti-rust device, which could be draining the battery.  However, when I installed the booster cable on my battery terminal connection, the power came back and there was enough power to start the engine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the booster cable wasn't plugged to any power source at the other end, does it confirm the problem is linked to a loose battery terminal connection (fixed by the charger cable clamp) or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:19:31.123" Title="Battery terminal connection issue" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19320" CreationDate="2015-08-13T14:24:43.757" Score="5" ViewCount="42404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota Camry (Manual Transmission).&#xA;My clutch died on me last week - couldn't accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the clutch replaced at a local mechanic. Now when I start the car off in first gear the car vibrates. I have tested by going to 1500 rpms and slowly releasing the clutch pedal. It vibrates until the clutch is fully engaged (which is almost an inch off the floor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the mechanic do a poor job or am I simply not used to the new clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I just realized that the car always vibrated in reverse. Now it vibrates both when engaging first gear or reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10150" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:27:58.817" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T19:51:48.410" Title="Is vibration for a new clutch job normal?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:51:17.377" Score="6" ViewCount="20422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Hyundai Accent 2005. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I removed the ac filter because it was too dirty and the air didn't feell well but I couldn't buy it because of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 6 days without the ac filter and I don't know if it is healthy dangerous because of the dust and all kinds of stuff that can come.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11748" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:24:13.877" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T02:29:25.460" Title="Is it dangerous not having air conditioning cabin filter?" Tags="|ac|hyundai|accent|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19318" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:55:12.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the flywheel is out of round, and no a flywheel doesn't typically come with the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He told me it's a single unit, so he didn't need to assemble the&#xA;  individual parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure exactly what that means, what parts exactly did he replace? A standard clutch job includes replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and turning the flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that he didn't turn the flywheel, meaning machine it to make sure it's completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that he only replaced the clutch disk and not the pressure plate and the pressure plate is the issue, but nobody only puts a clutch disk in without the pressure plate your just asking for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a breakdown of a typical clutch to illustrate the parts I am talking about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQpYY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQpYY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technician should have had the flywheel turned (Machined), or at a minimum checked it for run-out as pictured below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQ5s9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQ5s9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Maximum runout: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch) so it doesn't take much to cause a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="14449" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T14:42:07.173" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T14:42:07.173" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19319" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:57:23.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically it's just a pollen filter that's more for occupants comfort.  In older cars you would very occasionally get a dead bumble bee through a vent but I'd say that six days unfiltered shouldn't cause much of a problem for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T15:57:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19319" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:35:13.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think about the long-term health of the air-conditioning system also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the AC is used for long enough &lt;em&gt;sans&lt;/em&gt; cabin filter, the fan blower will get clogged up with dirt and dust much faster. This can lead to issues related to low air flow, such as lack of cooling, a frozen evaporator and a frozen expansion valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T06:27:35.543" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T06:27:35.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19309" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:59:44.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so I just realized if you know the engine displacement and compression ratio you should be able to figure this out pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I don't inject directly down the plug hole, but use the more traditional brake booster vacuum line method, I'd still like to know how much fluid I can safely pour down the vacuum line on the last gulp before stalling / shutting off the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was just looking in &quot;Engine Builder's Handbook&quot; pg 103 and it has the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CR = SV/CV + 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where SV is swept volume ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_displacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine displacement&lt;/a&gt; ) of one cylinder and CV is combustion chamber volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure CV I just rewrite the equation as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CV = SV/(CR-1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I know the engine displacement is 1.6L then SV for a single cylinder will be 400cc and the GA16DE has published CR's of either 9.5:1 or 9.9:1 so I get the equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CV = 400/(9.5-1) = 47cc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the combustion chamber volume above the piston at TDC will be 47cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess that say 1/2 to 3/4 that volume would be more than safe and wouldn't cause &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydrolock&lt;/a&gt;.  Or say 150ml if I was pouring down the vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T20:05:49.193" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:05:49.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T19:12:20.497" Score="2" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle has oil in the radiator and I have checked the head gasket matter fact I replaced it with a new one and there still is oil In the radiator &#xA;may I ask what could be another reason for oil to be in the radiator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11750" LastEditorUserId="11750" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T19:28:30.530" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T19:36:50.507" Title="Milky Oil in the radiator - Mazda 323" Tags="|engine|oil|mazda|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19325" CreationDate="2015-08-13T19:36:50.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If milk-like oil ends up in the radiator despite replacing the head gasket, it is likely that the head itself has warped due to overheating, allowing oil to leak into the coolant channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is a remote possibility to salvage the cylinder head by having it skimmed by a professional machinist, in all probability it will need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T19:36:50.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19317" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:19:31.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went back to the garage where the anti-rust system has been installed and the guy confirmed the problem was the battery terminal connection that got loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it could have been something else but that solved my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:19:31.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19331" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:32:34.703" Score="4" ViewCount="5132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught to fill the oil filter most of the way when doing an oil change.  Usually, by the time I put the oil filter back on, I'm pretty annoyed and just put the empty filter on.  I do put a light coat of oil on the rubber gasket though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last oil change, I noticed after start up my oil pressure was very low for about 3-5 seconds.  I'm sure 3-5 seconds is enough time to do a little bit of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much damage is this causing?&lt;/strong&gt;  Am I taking an hour off my engine's life or a decade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I obviously will change my procedure next time, but I'm just curious how bad it is.  My engine still runs so I know it's at least not catastrophic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T20:48:21.527" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T13:37:37.653" Title="Damage from the Brief No Oil Pressure after Oil Change on Start Up" Tags="|starting|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19283" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:56:12.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopped by a mechanic on my way home from work. The popping sound is the compressor clutch. The reason it's making noise is that the friction material is getting worn down, so you're hearing metal on metal when it's slapping together. It sounds little bit like air escaping (the PFFFT sound described earlier) because it's slipping a bit without the friction material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it happens every couple of seconds is that, on small cars, the computer often will turn the compressor off when the engine is under load in order to save power. So, when I'm accelerating, the compressor is being turned off, then when the RPMs drop back down, SLAP, the clutch comes back together. Once I'm up to highway speeds consistently instead of accelerating, it stops altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, long story short: it's an annoyance for now but, as things keep wearing down, I may eventually need to replace the compressor clutch or (God forbid) the whole compressor - sometimes the clutch is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help, everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:56:12.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19329" CreationDate="2015-08-13T21:03:23.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also prefilled my oil filters when I can. There is a notable difference in the amount of time it takes for the gauge to register when comparing prefilled to not prefilled. The difference is still fairly small though, I guess about 2-3 seconds. Although it seems like a life time while you watch the gauge. I believe this is insignificant though. If you were to check, you will see that many vehicles have filters mounted in positions that prevent prefilling. Most of them run for 150,000+ miles with out oil related issues. While I still consider it a good practice I don't lose sleep over not doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T01:13:50.230" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T01:13:50.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2015-08-13T23:43:07.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to lawnmower racing sites. Lots of info. I had a 6.5 honda clone I put aftermarket racing exhaust with very low restriction muffler an a K an N style air filter then bumped the main jet up 2 numbers. Very surprising results! You can put a billet flywheel on as well an the engine will spool up faster but might loose torque. Stay with the stock wheel an go from their.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11755" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T23:43:07.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T00:14:29.000" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 f150. pretty much everything is original on it. I now have oil in my radiator but. looks like thick poo when I took the cap off. but when I checked my oil other than being a quart low the oil is clean. just seeing what it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11756" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T18:44:01.460" Title="oil in my radiator" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2015-08-14T02:29:41.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the governor.  The spring can break. If you can reach the vane (engine off), rotate it with your finger.  You should feel some (modest) resistance, and it should rotate back when you release it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T02:29:41.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17397" CreationDate="2015-08-14T07:04:42.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, good enough in preventing wheel lock about 80% while applying only back brake and have not seen any lock while using both brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is particularly very useful because wheel lock skid can possibly happen also at speeds of 30-40 kmph even when the brake is not applied abruptly depending on the road, wetness, gravels (small stones/sand), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11759" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T07:04:42.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T08:13:43.227" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a BMW 320i series 1997 model, ever since i bought it from its first owner i took it in for service two times but to my surprise the mechanic did not replace the gearbox lubricant/oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would therefore like to know after how long should the gearbox fluid/oil be replaced and what are the indicators in that regard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11760" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:19:08.237" Title="BMW 320i Gearbox lubricant replacement" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19341" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:15:38.863" Score="2" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2001 Renault Clio 1.4 16v. It was bought second hand in 2006 and it came with aftermarket 14&quot; rims.&#xA;About a month ago I had to replace my tires, and the guy from the shop just happened to have a set of used stock 15&quot; rims from a Clio 1.5dci, and so I decided to replace both tires and rims. &#xA;Ever since then, I've been noticing the strange behavior in the steering at high speed. Going on the highway at about 140/150Kmh during the more pronounced turns, sometimes the car turns more than it should. I start turning the steering wheel and everything is fine, then while holding the steering wheel in place, just for a split second, it's like the front of the car is being pulled to the side I'm turning, and then, still without moving the steering wheel, it goes back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front tires are Michelin but the rear ones are from a crappy Chinese brand called PACE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car feels a bit bouncy on the highway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving in the city the car handles perfectly at any speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll probably replace the rear crappy tires before winter as they are awful when it rains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what could be causing this &quot;oversteering&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Changing the crappy tires to brand new Michelins fixed the steering problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastEditorUserId="11761" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T15:17:37.117" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T15:17:37.117" Title="Strange steering problem" Tags="|steering|renault|handling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19338" CreationDate="2015-08-14T11:07:10.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how well you know the feeling, the symptoms sound like they could just be a brief slip into oversteer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the back end loses traction (which could be the case based on your description of the tyres) the car will feel like it is suddenly turning too much into the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, however, once you lose the back end, it doesn't come back by itself - I don't know whether that model of Clio has intelligent traction control that can sort out an unplanned oversteer, but I guess not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T11:13:57.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T11:13:57.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19338" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:09:34.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;from what you've said it sounds like an issue with the rear tyres, mismatching different makes of tyre's can throw the handling out as they all have different tread patterns (even more noticable in the rain because they aqua plane differently)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;couple of other things to check would be - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all the wheels have been balanced properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check all the tyres are the same size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the actual wheels you bought fit your car, the offset or center bore might be slightly off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure the wheel/tyre isnt catching on anything such as the inside wall, suspension strut, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to work in a garage and these where the most common fixes, after that it started going into things like suspension issues, bent bottom arms, trackrod ends, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11764" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:09:34.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19337" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:19:08.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gearbox oil on modern cars can last a long time - tens of thousands of miles. You should be able to find a service schedule (it's usually in the back of the owner's handbook, which can often be found online) that will tell you how often it needs changing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:19:08.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:51:59.853" Score="4" ViewCount="3978" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following applies mainly when accelerating from zero speed at 1st gear in RPM below 2500. Above that RPM range, there is no problem (then acceleration is assisted by turbo-compressor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When engine is cold and I start the car, it is able to accelerate normally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When engine has normal working temperature and I stop the car (e.g. at lights), then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I accelerate after some 10 seconds, engine accelerates normally – no issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if I accelerate after 1-5 seconds, engine is very lazy: even with accelerator on the floor, acceleration is 3-4 times slower than normally. RPM increase very slowly like if the car was ignoring accelerator pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OBD-II engine diagnostics shows zero errors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This issue is new. Before the engine was accelerating normally under any conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what can be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can create pretty hazardous situations because if the driver relies on usual acceleration but instead the car only unexpectedly slowly rolls into the intersection, there is a chance of collision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Details:&lt;/strong&gt; Opel Zafira B (2009) • EcoFlex Turbo 1.6 bi-fuel (CNG + Petrol), 150 hp • manual 6-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T00:30:24.837" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:30:24.837" Title="Acceleration problem, but only immediately after stopping" Tags="|obd-ii|opel|acceleration|zafira|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:56:35.747" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a RWD vehicle the rear wheels have a differential and the front have ackermann steering or so, that prevent both the front and rear wheels from slipping, but in a FWD the differential is part of the transaxle in the transmission and the rear wheels are connected separately, so how don't they skid and rub in the ground due to friction??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="11366" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T13:28:22.833" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T13:28:22.833" Title="How does FWD moves rear wheels without skidding" Tags="|transmission|differential|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-08-14T14:58:15.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19348" CreationDate="2015-08-14T15:43:04.897" Score="-2" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before anyone downvotes, this is related to maintenance and repair &gt;_&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im at the point where I can afford either a mazda mx5 or a toyota mr2 (budget of about £2000)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;iv'e owned about 5 cars in the last 2 years and all of them have been fairly reliable and only required minimal spending (brake pads, bulbs, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;has anyone owned either of the two cars and can point out any common faults or costly fixes that either might incur ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11764" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T19:17:34.363" Title="mazda mx5 or toyota mr2?" Tags="|toyota|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-16T12:13:54.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2015-08-14T15:48:49.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;few things to check before you go spending too much money&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warped disc brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;correctly balanced wheels (sounds oblivious but this used to be the issue 90% of the time when i worked in a garage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tracking (as already mentioned) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom arm bushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after those, things start to get more expensive, its whether the cars worth spending the money on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11764" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T15:48:49.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19346" CreationDate="2015-08-14T16:14:44.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of the 2, the MR2 is typically more reliable.  It's classic overbuilt Toyota.  However, the parts are obscenely expensive and can take days to weeks to get when you should happen to need one.  Miata parts are cheap and readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't make a decision based on that though.  It's not like deciding between econobox A and econobox B.  The MR2 and Miata, other than having 2 seats, really are very different cars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T16:14:44.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19353" CreationDate="2015-08-14T17:39:45.840" Score="4" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding my motorcycle (Yamaha FZ8 - 4Zylinder 800cc). At the weeksend I was driving through a town. It was very hot outside and I parked the bike. The coolingwater-temperature was above 100°C, the fan of the engine was running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turned of the engine, the fan stopped working, too. So I switched on the ignition again (without starting the engine), and the fan started working again.&#xA;After a few minutes I turned off the ignition, because the fan was still runing and didn't want to risk to loose all the battery power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What is the correct way in such a case? (Hot summer temperatures + hot engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the eninge turned on? Will it cool down, or will the engine produce more heat, than it can cool down? (For some turbo cars, it is best in this case, to let them running, but for motorcycles?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the vent running(without the engine)? How long does the battery last, if I let the ignition turned on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just stop the engine and don't care if it's hot? (Will it take damage?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you guys can give me a hint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11768" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T23:27:40.733" Title="Parking a motorcycle with hot engine" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:02:03.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you gapped your plugs and they are proper heat range &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11769" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T18:02:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:22:30.847" Score="0" ViewCount="3808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so i have a ford fiesta zetec mk6 1.4 orange and just wanted to know if I could put a ford fiesta s bumper on my car because the zetec s bumper looks a bit more sporty then mine and mine has a few scratches and dents but don't want to buy the bumper and it not fit and I don't mind if its another colour I will get it sprayed the same once its on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gYJO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gYJO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is my car&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And wanted a bumper like this &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Fiesta-Mk6-Mk7-2005-2008-Zetec-S-Front-Bumper-Centre-Grill-Surround-Kit-/361302415065?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item541f4d56d9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Fiesta-Mk6-Mk7-2005-2008-Zetec-S-Front-Bumper-Centre-Grill-Surround-Kit-/361302415065?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item541f4d56d9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11680" LastEditorUserId="11680" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T18:36:50.643" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T10:57:06.317" Title="Putting a Different bumper on my car" Tags="|ford|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19350" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:39:06.853" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopping a naturally aspirated engine will cool it down, regardless of the fan running and etc. The idea behind &quot;turbo timers&quot; on turbocharged cars is not at all engine cooling related, rather it is to allow the delicate and extremely hot turbocharger components to cool down via keeping the oil feed circulating through it for additional 15-30 seconds or a minute. I think it's totally OK to stop your bike without worrying about the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11770" LastEditorUserId="11770" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T23:27:40.733" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T23:27:40.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19333" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:44:01.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the head gasket A blown head gasket may cause a number of different symptoms. Coolant in the engine oil, an engine misfire or oil leaking from the engine could all be a symptom. Each of these symptoms could also have other causes and an actual blown head gasket may show none of the above symptoms. Hope this helped ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T18:44:01.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19346" CreationDate="2015-08-14T19:17:34.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good indicator in the decision can be this question - which one is still being manufactured, has a large following and aftermarket part support? What this may imply is that you may have more luck finding cheaper parts for the MX5 than MR2 as well as getting more support on the forums or from local clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11770" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T19:17:34.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19350" CreationDate="2015-08-14T21:05:40.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also I want to add my 2 cents. When I look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://startpage.com/do/search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yamah FZ8&lt;/a&gt; I see that it is water cooled... so I think that the purpose of the fan is to push air on the cooler as it should have a bigger surface than the engine itself. When you turn on the ignition the fan pushes air on the cooler but the water pump is not running as the engine does not run. So I would think that running the fan - without establishing water circulation - will have a small impact.. Correct me if I am wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are afraid that the engine could take damage on hot days. Briefly before shutting down the engine, the best way is to drive relatively fast (watch the speed limit) with the highest possible gear and low revs.. that way a lot of air can hit the cooler unit while the water pump is running and the low revs will create relatively low temperature. This should cool down the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11771" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T21:05:40.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T01:37:51.220" Score="4" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got this car,  a BMW Z3  3.0 from a Tampa dealer and have not even had it 10 days and Check Engine Light came on.  I wanted to get the oil changed to full synthetic just in case it wasn't and also to check the codes so I went to this fast oil-change place,  a large chain establishment with good reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The young kid there seemed to know what he was doing so I thought nothing of it.  When they checked the computer the code came up for camshaft sensor.  So I took it in the next day and they fixed it supposedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it seemed to have a ton more horsepower but that CEL came back on. Something told me to check the oil... I had noticed an oil spot on the driveway about as big as a soup dish.  Well they had overfilled it.  How much blew out through the&#xA;exhaust or wherever excess oil goes... I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it back in and made them take out the extra oil and check the codes again because now they read ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;65 Camshaft position sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;227 O2 Bank 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;228 O2 Bank 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what to do and what to believe at this point... is it likely the extra oil messed up the oxygen sensors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to get to clients but will it hurt my car to drive it long distances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had been stalling out before they replaced the camshaft sensor.  It's at least not doing that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expert advice would sure be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks !&#xA;~ Cheryl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11774" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T17:26:13.167" Title="Quick Oil Change place overfilled my BMW Z3" Tags="|oil|bmw|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16455" CreationDate="2015-08-15T01:43:54.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive My jetta (2015 S) in sport mode on the freeway (70 mph) if you use cruise control it will shift to 6th gear and without it it'll hold 5th. I have found no immediate damage. S is sport mode, changes the shift points. The smell could be the engine. Mine did it for about 1k miles. The flapping could be minor. Today I found the rubber pice under the front bumper doing this, it came off (not really secure) hope this helps. Best of wishes and enjoy that car! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11776" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T01:43:54.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19358" CreationDate="2015-08-15T02:40:09.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Is it likely the extra oil messed up the oxygen sensors?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so; not in a few days' worth of driving if the O2's were healthy to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that if engine oil has been overfilled, more of it will make its way to the exhaust where it will encounter the O2 sensors, causing them to foul, but the abuse would have to be over a longer period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing worth mentioning is a visual check; there is usually a telltale blue smoke if there is oil mixing in the exhaust. If you can still see blue smoke, this tells me that regardless of oil level you have a bigger problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what could it be then?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the comments I asked about the age of the O2 sensors, since they will age over time and eventually need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the excess oil was the last straw for them, but they were likely in need of replacement to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You really should get in touch with the Tampa dealer and ask for the vehicle's service history.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of service history, you'll have to assume the worst and say that they are 14 years old now, in which case replacing them makes a lot of sense¹. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing them, drive the car for about 200 miles; if the sensors were bad it should feel like a different car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I need to get to clients but will it hurt my car to drive it long distances?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. The car might feel a little flat but you won't risk damaging the vehicle by driving it for long distances if it is just a matter of bad O2 sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that BMW has designed fallback mechanisms into its vehicles where it assumes certain behavior if it doesn't trust certain sensors like the O2's and the MAF's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Return of the CPS code&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hard to judge without hooking the vehicle up to a dedicated scan tool, but one thing to check is whether the VANOS unit has been refreshed recently, as VANOS solenoids jammed with crud may cause this (amongst a whole host of other possibilities). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't something BMW dealerships will do (they usually just replace the whole shebang for big bucks), but reputable independent BMW specialists will know how to perform this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recommendations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is only so much diagnosis possible over the Internet&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The best thing for you to do at this stage is have the vehicle checked by a &lt;em&gt;trusted&lt;/em&gt; independent BMW specialist that has access to BMW-specific software for running code scans and tests.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other possibilities that might explain what you're experiencing; this post is merely my take on the information presented.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reach out to Z3 gurus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a wealth of information and resources on the dedicated BMW forums if you present your problem there. However, it can be a challenge to differentiate between useful and not-so-useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Monitor your oil level and continue checking for leaks&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably noticed the oil puddle because of a seal or gasket that didn't like the high oil pressure due to overfilling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps and all the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - I normally don't advocate replacing parts without running some tests, but if these are the circumstances I think it is a sensible call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T03:14:24.077" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T03:14:24.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T04:51:53.723" Score="1" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Swift VXI has developed a condition. I have started to see the check-engine light on and the Engine Coolant Temperature Needle stays at 'C' after starting the engine. Engine gives a growling sound. What could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem occurred after i connected the OBD-II device in my car and used an Android app to check different gauges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11777" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T16:15:49.323" Title="Maruti Suzuki Swift Check Engine Light On And Engine Coolant Temperature Needle stay at 'C'" Tags="|coolant|obd-ii|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:35:48.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with everybody else's suggestions,Keep the blade sharp. I sharpen the blade on my push mower at least every other mowing. A dull blade will cause a lot of resistance to the engine. I use an angle grinder with a very fine wheel as to not take off too much metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11778" LastEditorUserId="11778" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T09:40:57.577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T09:40:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2015-08-15T14:22:36.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing on my 2001 full size Montero with 183K miles. It would not pass CA smog test.  I tried running 2 bottles of Cataclean but that did not work.  I bought the OEM cats online for 800 bucks including shipping.  Paid a local muffler shop 300 to install. It worked.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7llj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7llj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11779" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T14:22:36.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19378" CreationDate="2015-08-15T17:18:40.897" Score="4" ViewCount="3477" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son borrowed a car and the battery seemed fine, car started fine every time. However it died after my son left some overhead lights on in the car overnight. We jumped it, and he drove about 20 miles, but it didn't seem to take any charge, so it had to be jumped again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has enough juice to turn on lights and the dash, make the noises when the key is in the ignition, but we just get the clicks rather than the engine trying to turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hooked it up to a charger for a few hours, same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my question&lt;/strong&gt; is does draining a battery completely result in it not wanting to take a charge anymore? Or is this a condition that mostly affects batteries that were on their last legs to start with? Can a battery in this state be revived?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I removed the battery and cleaned the contacts but hooked up the battery to a new NOCO G3500 smart charger. From the start, I noticed some gas being released from at least one side of the battery (it has two caps, each one covers 3 cells). I removed the caps, and could see that each of the cells was bubbling as it charged, except for one. That one was on one side of the battery. So 5/6 cells seem to be taking a charge. After 24 hours on the charger, the NOCO was still showing 75% (flashing). I removed the charger and it registered ~11.25 volts. The next day, it was showing ~10.5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11781" LastEditorUserId="11781" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T14:36:32.770" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T17:00:08.893" Title="Does draining a battery typically leave it in a state that it won't take a charge?" Tags="|battery|maintenance|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19364" CreationDate="2015-08-15T18:00:58.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few scenarios that can cause battery charging issues. First check the connections. If it is serviceable check the water level. If it is low, charging may have overheated and damaged the plates.  If the battery was a newer technology AGM type (advanced glass mat technology) and it was charged with a older style conventional charger the battery may have been damaged. AGM batteries require a &quot;smart charger&quot;. Another potential issue is older chargers often will not charge a completely dead battery. It needs to see some voltage to initiate the charge cycle. The method varies with the charger. My old Sears Craftsman requires me to jump the dead battery for 5-10 minutes prior to putting it on the charger. Another scenario is as you alluded to,  that the battery may have been on its' last legs and running to dead pushed it over the edge. If this is the case the only solution is replacement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T18:10:12.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T18:10:12.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19394" CreationDate="2015-08-15T18:53:45.890" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious, is it possible (and how hard would it be) to build a custom car with an engine from a different brand than the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I'd get an old V12 Mercedes engine (with two turbo chargers), and add a DSG gearbox to it. I guess it's not really that 'plug-in-and-work' type of conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As you can tell I have little to no experience on this yet, but I am very keen on trying to build a custom vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7032" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:09:04.870" Title="Building a custom car" Tags="|transmission|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T23:30:22.740" Score="3" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends left his car in the garage since five years back and he has lived abroad since then. He left it with a full tank(its a diesel), and it ran perfectly well back then. Now he's back and the car wouldn't start.&#xA;The battery was left disconnected, and now he has replaced it with a new battery. The electric motor works, but the engine wouldn't start.&#xA;Sorry, I don't know the model and make of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So please help out. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11784" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:57:12.320" Title="After five years in garage diesel car wouldn't start, what should be done?" Tags="|engine|starting|diesel|car|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-16T01:02:30.400" Score="1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a we Ford Ka 1.3 2006. On first inspection no water in radiator, took two litres. Started it after few minutes. It started revving the nuts of it's self. I have not done any other tests as yet bar take plugs out, all ok. Car was only serviced last month and I've found the cause of low coolant. Before I go as far as to fix leak, what should I be looking for in the revving situation? Also, throttle sensor was replaced and along with the idle air; both new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work on bikes mainly. Just doing this for a friend and don't have diagnostic tool for Ford. What to do? Any ideas? First thought was head warped? Am I right before going down road of pressure testing? As Ka is not good nik not worth a rebuild if any other ideas? Be great for feed back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11785" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T15:17:47.330" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T15:28:29.017" Title="Ford Ka 2006 revving on it's own" Tags="|ford|ka|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19368" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:29:46.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check tension on throttle pedal as there a small amount of play before it engages if not loosen the throttle cable under the hood and make sure cable is moving freely it could have been tightened to much or cable could be stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:29:46.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19364" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:32:27.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would do is first is put battery on charge over night if battery was drained to much then alternate won't 0rod7ce quite enough to charge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:32:27.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19352" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:35:39.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to check size but nearly any bumper can be made to fit if u know how to use fiber glass .&#xA;If not u can check size spec on manufacturer website l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:35:39.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19338" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:39:53.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once u replace the rears it might be worth getting the tracking done.&#xA;After that it could be a problem with power steering as might be itermitent fault with servo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:39:53.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19304" CreationDate="2015-08-16T16:55:50.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you can do is split the wire going into abs box and put on isolator switch so when you go out turn it on then when u stop turn it off.&#xA;Or if you can split cable and extend so you can put isolator on dash so you can do it all from in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T16:55:50.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19364" CreationDate="2015-08-16T17:06:33.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing that happens when a multi-cell battery is completely discharged is that one of those cells may be driven into reverse polarity. This will have a drastic effect on a battery's life. Most will tolerate this only a few times, some types only once.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This from Wikipedia:&lt;br&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;Damage from cell reversal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subjecting a discharged cell to a current in the direction which tends to discharge it further to the point the positive and negative terminals switch polarity causes a condition called cell reversal. Generally, pushing current through a discharged cell in this way causes undesirable and irreversible chemical reactions to occur, resulting in permanent damage to the cell. Cell reversal can occur under a number of circumstances, the two most common being:&#xA;When a battery or cell is connected to a charging circuit the wrong way around.&#xA;When a battery made of several cells connected in series is deeply discharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the latter case, the problem occurs due to the different cells in a battery having slightly different capacities. When one cell reaches discharge level ahead of the rest, the remaining cells will force the current through the discharged cell.&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This is probably what happened to your battery and why it happened so suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T19:53:01.450" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T19:53:01.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19367" CreationDate="2015-08-16T18:32:35.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about diesel, but regular fuel jelliefies over time. And five years sounds plenty long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you might live in a country that adds ethanol to its fuel. I read that this can also separate over time, though I have no direct experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: check the fuel. Is it still liqued?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T18:32:35.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22281" CreationDate="2015-08-16T19:12:34.173" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to haul a 425 lb KLR650 motorcycle from Hoboken NJ to Oakland CA. I'm on a budget so I'd like to do this as cheap as possible (under $200 is great, maybe $500 max).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 B4V VW TDI Passat Wagon and I already have a Class II 1-1/4&quot; receiver hitch and wiring ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1:&lt;/strong&gt; buy a light duty trailer, trailer the bike, sell trailer at the other end. Harbor Freight has a couple of options between $250-$300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: it's the right way to do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: trailer adds extra haul weight, limited to 55 MPH across the entire USA (trailering speed limit) adds drive time and hotel costs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Use a motorcycle caddy to tow bike, sell caddy in Oakland. &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/GWnf3k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/GWnf3k&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: less total weight to haul, better handling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: 3,000 miles on my brand new rear tire, still technically&#xA;limited to 55 MPH adds drive time and hotel cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Use a motorcycle carrier to haul bike as cargo, sell carrier in Oakland. &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/BBEPmj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/BBEPmj&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pros: no more 55 MPH speed limit! And less chance of theft, I think.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cons: puts about 450-500 lbs over the rear bumper. Exceeds Class II weight limits! May have terrible handling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the idiotic part. I really want to do option 3 but the Class II hitch is rated for 300-350 lbs. That gives me a couple of thoughts about jury-rigging a solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could buy a 1.25&quot; receiver carrier and supplement it with cargo straps to the roof rack. If I transfer 100-200 lbs to the rack I ought to be golden. Note: the only 1.25&quot; carrier I found is expensive and only rates for 250 lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could buy a 2&quot; receiver carrier and a 1.25&quot; to 2&quot; receiver adapter. Still exceeds the Class II weight limit and I'd still need to transfer load to the roof rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I could bolt or weld a $30 Class III receiver to the steel bumper, and either cut an access hole in the plastics (plastics are already damaged) or drive with the rear bumper plastics off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This still leaves me with unresolved questions about handling and safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I a total idiot? Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11793" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T20:07:45.187" Title="Hauling a motorcycle cross country — more or less wrong ways to do it." Tags="|motorcycle|vw|safety|towing|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-16T20:19:03.580" Score="1" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the manifold absolute pressure sensor at on a 1998 Honda accord? I have tried looking on YouTube but haven't been able to find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11794" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T21:06:31.907" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T10:07:18.323" Title="How do I find the manifold absolute pressure sensor on a 1998Honda Accord" Tags="|honda|accord|manifold-absolute-pressure-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19643" CreationDate="2015-08-16T23:17:46.253" Score="5" ViewCount="14951" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kia Sedona 2012 automatic. Drove 180 miles on a full tank of fuel without any problems. Started the car the next day and it didn't start cleanly but did eventually. Was waiting on the drive with the engine running but in park when it suddenly stalled. Turned off all the accessories (air con, radio), started again messily, put into reverse to back out of the level drive without using the gas pedal and it stalled while backing up. Started again, drove down the road, got to the stop sign, stalled again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went away for a few days, came back, tried it again. Messy to start. Car hovers at 900rpm when idling and every 10-20 seconds the revs would slowly drop to about 500rpm before kicking back up to 1000 then back to 900. Every now and again it wouldn't recover from the drop and would stall instead, several lights on the dashboard lit up telling me nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the battery is okay as the power doors operate fine. Driving at 55mph it's fine. It's only when idling that the revs drop and it (sometimes) stalls, plus starting takes a few seconds. Weather hot and dry, 30% humidity which is a little high for the region, no rain for ages (SoCal). Don't think it's fuel contamination as the 1st half of the tank ran fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas I can try as a non-mechanic before spending $$$ at the dealership? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11796" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:58:21.153" Title="Automatic: revs dropping then stalling when stopped at lights" Tags="|starting|rough-idle|kia|rpm|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2015-08-17T01:25:03.240" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imho adding 2 stroke oil will help lubricates the top part of the piston. What i am worried is, how clean the mixture will burn? Because most 4 stroke engine have egr. If it burns much dirtier, u could end up with more soot re-entering your combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11798" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T01:25:03.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19207" CreationDate="2015-08-17T07:34:37.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can also use brake and clutch spray cleaner test on hidden area first but this will remover almost every thing also amazing for cleaning alloy wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T07:34:37.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-17T08:32:30.673" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car drive train question. I'm looking at used SUVs since my last car died 3 months ago (20 yr old Honda Accord), specifically looking at vehicles like the Honda CR-V or Toyota RAV4.I know AWD and 4WD = All Wheel Drive and 4 Wheel Drive but is 2WD the same as FWD (which I know is Front Wheel Drive)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because out of all 4, I'm trying to figure out which drive train is the best for me because I want something I can drive in different terrains, not just city and highway, but maybe in more rough/rocky areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do more camping sometime, I also drive on the snow(I know chains too. It snows in the winter where my sister is and never been in wintertime but I might do that next year). So out of those 4, which is the best for me? Or maybe the best 2 out of all those? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11800" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T08:50:32.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:26:16.343" Title="I have a car drive-train question." Tags="|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-19T13:44:11.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19120" CreationDate="2015-08-17T08:34:22.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your post raises several possible issues that you could eliminate to start with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly if it is still on an incline I suggest you push or tow it to flat ground. It will help rule out fuel starvation and make it easier and safer to work on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second i would drain the fuel tank and put fresh fuel in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can try starting it a few times. Give it a few minutes break between attempts so you don't drain the battery, fry the starter or flood the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try some aerosol engine start products. Beyond this point you're looking at removing/cleaning/checking/ replacing spark plugs. Looking for spark etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a manual transmission or auto? Not sure how confident you are with the technique, but if it's a manual you could try tow starting it.  Note: if you are not familiar with this then i suggest you don't attempt this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T08:42:13.177" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T08:42:13.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19388" CreationDate="2015-08-17T08:46:06.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your use I would suggest a 4WD or AWD since power to all 4 wheels will increase traction and generally better for off-Roading,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2WD is when either the front two wheels (FWD) or the Rear two wheels (RWD) are driven at any point of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RWD are slightly better for climbing or incline type of surface , FWD is better for slippery surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;other things which you might consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AWD/4WD are best for off Roading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FWD are cheaper to buy and maintain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FWD dont have a central hump in the middle of the back seats(more legroom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RWD provide better performance figures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4WD is more ecnonomical to run and cheaper to buy than AWD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4WD is better at Off-Roading than AWD(keep in mind AWD is better than RWD or FWD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AWD is better for Snowy conditions and increased traction(on the ROAD). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AWD is much more sharp and sportier around the corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are going to do partial off roading it would be better to go&#xA;  for AWD compared to 4WD since the computers in AWD will determing the&#xA;  required traction needs at the current moment compared to the 4WD&#xA;  where you will need to flip a switch manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Thanks to Paulster2 for the additional info)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T09:26:16.343" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:26:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19382" CreationDate="2015-08-17T12:15:20.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most vehicles you can find the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor in the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the same case with your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/450O7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/450O7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the black tube from the front of the engine and you will see the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:28:57.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:24:52.207" Score="3" ViewCount="2509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD that won't shift out of park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just came back from a 3-month trip and went to drive my truck somewhere but it wouldn't shift out of park. This has happened before as a result of a busted fuse. Usually I just press in the override and I can get it to shift while I go buy a new fuse. I tried that this time but even with the override pressed I couldn't shift out of park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I then checked my fuses, and found that the 10A fuse labeled &quot;Stop&quot; was kind of burned, although not broken. So I replaced that, but I still can't shift out of park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose/fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Yes I am holding the break in.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastEditorUserId="11802" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T17:31:19.047" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T08:07:18.693" Title="Shifter(auto) stuck in park and override won't work" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|fuse|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14866" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:31:21.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same car and I really hate having to check the oil level. The dipstick is on the front/underside of the engine close to the oil filter. It bright yellow, but since it's so well hidden it's easily missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo for clarification:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whXl1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whXl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clio 1.4 16v dipstick location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastEditorUserId="11761" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T12:31:37.343" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T12:31:37.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19366" CreationDate="2015-08-17T19:09:04.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bell housings are removable, you can swap them.  You may need to drill/weld a bit to get holes to line up.  If they are not removable you will need to either make an adaptor plate, or cut/weld the bell housing to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:09:04.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19450" CreationDate="2015-08-17T19:18:39.900" Score="4" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my '95 Chevy Blazer (4.3L V6) on the highway, I pulled off to use a rest stop. The engine was (and has) been running/starting well, and upon returning to leave, the engine would not start. The engine was turning over, but would not ignite. Here's what I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery is good, (even tried getting a jump just in case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel pump is active, (I can hear the pump when turning key to on position, and verified there was some pressure using fuel rail schrader valve - I didn't have a pressure gauge to deteremine &lt;em&gt;how much&lt;/em&gt; pressure there was, but it was pressurized)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All 6 spark plugs, engine oil, tranny fuild, air &amp;amp; oil filter were replaced last month. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition Coil is sending spark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be up with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T21:19:09.763" Title="'95 Chevy Blazer suddenly refuses to start" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|ignition|blazer|s10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-17T23:39:13.157" Score="3" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to diagnose an issue with my wife's 2001 Honda CR-V air conditioning. First off, the A/C gets down to 50F when car is running idle for several minutes, so it's not too bad ... however on hot clear days in mid-afternoon the car never really feels cooled off. I think I may have some issues that may or may not be related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The compressor clutch either stays engaged or isn't engaged at all. I don't hear any &quot;clicking&quot; at all and I cannot visibly see down there to see if it's engaging. I'm assuming since it's somewhat cool, that it's engaging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I took a reading and the low side pressure is reading around 32psi and high side around 150psi. A/C turned on with max air. I did try to add R134a, the low pressure didn't seem to increase. I didn't want to continue since I'm not sure what's going on with my compressor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Her car used to make a really high pitched squeal after a few seconds of the car turning on and the A/C being on. Sounded like a belt. I haven't heard that squeal in a while. All belts are spinning fine just based on inspection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Compressor fan seems to stay running but the radiator fan isn't running at all. Even after 10 mins or so of running. May not have anything to do with it and engine may not be hot enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Cooling fan and Condenser fan fuses are intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever help would be appreciated, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11804" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T00:41:07.430" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T11:13:47.283" Title="A/C Compressor not turning on?" Tags="|honda|ac|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19264" CreationDate="2015-08-18T01:33:54.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess would be that the surge blew the inline fuse in the wiring on the back of the stereo itself. You will need to remove the stereo and the fuse should be on the positive wire (usually a red wire). Its probably spring loaded push the ends together to turn the case and open it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11805" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T01:33:54.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T03:55:29.267" Score="4" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the original owner of a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT 3.7 which now has 30,000 km.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the last oil change, the engine is making an &lt;strong&gt;inconsistent tick sound when warm and also vibrates a little.&lt;/strong&gt; The sound can be somewhat compared to parts of exhaust cooling down, because it blends in with that sound pretty well. The sound might have been present before the oil change however I did not notice any sounds until after the oil change was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is an inconsistent but repetitive tick. It is present only when the engine is warm and it has to be in Park or Neutral and is harder to notice if engine is revved to around 2000 RPM, but when the engine speed increases, the sound is also more intense and faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is most noticeable at zero engine load, I mean by turning on the radio or A/C it is still there but not as annoying. No mods done to the truck, and it hasn't been driven hard. I did put premium gas in a couple of times. There is no sound after starting the engine in a situation where the truck was sitting in a driveway overnight. Even driving it moderately 5km highway and 5km city, it does not always make the sound by the time I get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I suspect three things.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. I have been idling my car a lot and sometimes used the cheapest gas from some no-name gas stations.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. When my 5w20 Motocraft oil gets warm it gets thick and then it is somehow causing this sound.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. There is just something wrong with the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what I should look at? I need to know the if there is a problem before I go to the dealership again. The first time they told me everything is all right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a video of my F-150 making the sound &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DKFb0II7Pk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DKFb0II7Pk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11806" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T21:43:32.933" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T05:36:27.370" Title="Inconsistent warm engine tick sound in 2013 F-150" Tags="|engine|ford|noise|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:35:46.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother had the same problem with he's 2012 Nissan sunny (versa) all those you mentioned is been done until I found out that the Temperature selector cable is loose so this means its stocked and its no longer select from heating or cooling so maybe yours is on heating still because the cable is loose it wont go back to cooling, it doesn't matter what's the Temperature selector showing from outside because the cable is loose and always mixing cold and heat at the same time, so see if your is not loose for the sunny air conditioning unit was manual I am not sure if your Auto maybe its different , I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11807" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T08:44:45.300" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T08:44:45.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19392" CreationDate="2015-08-18T07:18:45.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you hear a click of the brake lock disengagement from the steering column when you depress the brake pedal, with the key in, engine on? If you don't, it could be either faulty wiring to the disengagement solenoid, or the solenoid itself failed (something rather rare, but I have fixed before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your comfort level, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the brake depression switch at the brake pedal for continuity. Typically pressing in the pedal a small amount will provide ground to a single wire. Ground this yourself to test the switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the steering wheel mount's upper and lower plastic covers off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplug and check for voltage between the solenoid wiring when the brake is depressed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manually wire a switch if the solenoid works, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the solenoid if it does not, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the solenoid and lock pin entirely, so you can leave park anytime you like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T07:18:45.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19367" CreationDate="2015-08-18T07:23:07.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 years its too long. He should not try to start the engine without doing these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty the tank and get rid of the old diesel (of course, refill the tank with new fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean diesel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace engine oil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace oil filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have look this YouTube video:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byqhfAl9-YE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byqhfAl9-YE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope it help &#xA;thanks to Paulster2 for the text correction !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11807" LastEditorUserId="11807" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T13:57:12.320" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:57:12.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19409" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:09:29.617" Score="5" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my radiator cleaned and flushed yesterday.&#xA;The mechanic who did the work advised that pure distilled water is better than using mixture of water and coolant. I checked the manual and it just mentioned that you need to pour in coolant but is not specific of the requirement (e.g. ratio, coolant type etc.). So out of curiosity, I checked online and of the many threads I've read, I stumbled on one of our own: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5504/using-only-coolant-or-mix-of-water-for-radiator&quot;&gt;Using only coolant or mix of water for radiator?&lt;/a&gt;. According to this thread and many more, it is advisable to use 50/50 antifreeze to water ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is if this is the case, do I need to flush my radiator again and change all the coolant to make sure that the antifreeze and water ratio is correct? Or is it safe to add coolant little by little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I have no problem in freezing since there's no winter season here in my place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:50:00.090" Title="Is it necessary to maintain antifreeze to water ratio?" Tags="|mazda|cooling-system|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19403" CreationDate="2015-08-18T11:01:21.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My aunties Polo had it's radiator replaced and the mechanic who completed this job used pure water.  That winter, the water in the radiator froze and because ice expands, when it melted and turned back into water, it leaked out of the now broken radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antifreeze performs several jobs in the cooling system.  It increases the specific heat capacity of the system allowing it to be more effective at high temperatures (i.e. increases the boiling point).  It reduces the freezing point thus protecting the radiator from ice.  It also includes a corrosion inhibitor which extends the life of components such as the radiator, heater matrix, metal water pipework and metallic components of the water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my car, I'd be inclined to drain the system and refill with a mixture.  You can make, by using some additional containers, a 50% mix of antifreeze / water ahead of filling the system and keep any spare sealed in the original container for future use (obviously mark the label to show it's now diluted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd question your mechanics logic and consider using an alternative mechanic in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T11:01:21.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19367" CreationDate="2015-08-18T11:05:25.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the reason the vehicle will not start is that the fuel lines are dry.  On diesel engined vehicles there is a priming procedure which is specific to the vehicle but may be completed by a plunger on top of the fuel filter in the engine bay or a separate &quot;squeezy&quot; hand pump in the fuel lines.  This procedure must be completed if a diesel ever runs out of fuel so I suspect it will also need completed in this case because the car has stood for so long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to the manufacturers handbook for details of how this procedure is completed for your specific vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T11:05:25.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19397" CreationDate="2015-08-18T12:14:44.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the 2000 CR-V service manual, under the pressure-test conditions (86 °C, 70 % RH):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the low-side pressure should be around 43 psi (compared to 32 psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the high-side pressure should be around 320 psi (compared to 150 psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii623/zedinc/Mobile%20Uploads/wp_ss_20150818_0001.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;perf chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible scenarios&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that there are one or two factors at play here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is insufficient refrigerant in the system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be confirmed by the presence of excessive bubbles in the sight glass on the bottle-shaped dryer/receiver.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are clogged lines&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the numbers, it would seem that the high-pressure line is more of a problem in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recommendations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest following a two-step plan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Add more refrigerant to the system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least enough to get the low-side pressure within spec. At this point, you should use the performance chart to judge whether the high-side pressure is within spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not in spec, proceed to Step 2. Else this should fix it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Address clogged refrigerant lines&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the top-up doesn't bring the high-side pressure within spec, it's likely that the high-side line is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The service manual recommends repair or replacement. It may be possible to clean the line out with compressed air, but can't say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.110" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T11:13:47.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19408" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:12:29.957" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 GMC Safari 2WD that has 160k on it.  I need to replace the shocks on it.  Does anyone know how to do this and have a recommendation on the type of shocks I should install?  I only drive it about 20 miles a day...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11810" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:38:00.113" Title="1999 GMC Safari Shocks" Tags="|gmc|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19407" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:38:00.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear - on each side, the shock will be bolted to the frame and the axle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front - on each side, connected to the lower control arm and the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy to get to, but they might be rusty.  Spray the nuts/bolts down with PB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just go for whatever is cheap by a well known brand (Monroe, kyb, etc.).  Try to keep them all the same brand/product line.  Might want to look for reviews or read forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:38:00.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19403" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:50:00.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tool you can get.  It has a reservoir and a bubble on the top.  Suck it full of coolant and you can see your ratio and what temperature it is good to freezing and boiling wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary job of coolant is to keep your cooling system from exploding in the winter.  It does help to increase the boiling point, but pure water will typically boil at about 260* F (127* C)in your coolant system.  The boiling point is raised 3*F for every pound of pressure, most coolant systems will hold 16psi before the cap starts releasing pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do always want to keep some coolant in your system as it helps with corrosion and lubrication.  I would purchase PURE coolant (not the 50/50 mix), drain out a bit from the radiator's drain cock and top it off with coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:50:00.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19436" CreationDate="2015-08-18T16:30:41.543" Score="9" ViewCount="48161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue where the transmission will occasionally downshift by itself during a fast acceleration.&#xA;I have a 2005 Suzuki Vstrom 650 and it's been a great bike so far. At pretty high revs, 9k-10k or so, it will occasionally go from 2nd -&gt; Neutral, and I think the same thing happened once going 6th -&gt; 5th gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this to happen and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T11:35:35.640" Title="Motorcycle transmission occasionally pops out of gear" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|suzuki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T16:44:08.813" Score="-1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;My starter motor is good, I can jump the solenoid and start my truck. Why isn't it working from the switch which was working before I put a new starter motor on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11813" LastEditorUserId="11074" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T12:02:10.390" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T14:26:47.163" Title="Having starter issue" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T16:52:09.083" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought the original ECM in to order a replacement, put it in myself, and then towed the car to Ford. Now they are saying they can't program it because the computer is for a manual and my car is an automatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The place I got the part from says they don't see a difference in part numbers, and Ford has no information for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the dealership telling me the truth? Is there a way to program it? Is there a difference in part numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11814" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T18:21:59.773" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:06:18.453" Title="Dealer can't program new ECU for 2001 Mercury Cougar because of transmission type" Tags="|ford|transmission|electronic-control-module|mercury|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19421" CreationDate="2015-08-18T17:10:24.067" Score="4" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reinstalled the timing chain on my V6 Tacoma as per the Toyota official spec and the Haynes manual. I made sure that the marker notches on the intake camshaft sprockets line up to the marks on the cam bearings, per the spec. Then I turned the crank so that the marker on the crank sprocket is at 9 o'clock and then I mounted the chain so that the corresponding marker link straddles that crank sprocket marker and the other two marker links go over the corresponding notches on the camshaft sprockets mentioned above. Then I released the tensioner plunger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I turned the crank to make one full cycle of the chain and when the three marker links on the chain were in the same exact position they were in when I installed the chain, I noticed that the sprockets were not in the starting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think this is as designed but I just wanted to check.&lt;/strong&gt; Here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I counted the number of links total on the chain and there are 87 wide links and consequently 87 narrow links that connect them. That is 174 holes that straddle cogs on the sprockets that transfer torque. The crank sprocket has 18 cogs and each intake camshaft sprocket has 36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in one full cycle of the chain, the crank sprocket turns 9.66 cycles (174/18) and each camshaft sprocket turns half that many, 4.83 cycles (174/36), as it has twice as many cogs. So when the single yellow marker on the chain that was initially lined up with the sprocket dot makes one full revolution, the crank will have turned 9 full cycles and 2/3 of a cycle so the sprocket dot will be exactly at 5 o'clock and not the original 9 o'clock (9 o'clock + 240 deg = 5 o'clock). Similar applies with different numbers for the two camshaft intake sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;If my reasoning is correct&lt;/code&gt;, the lowest common denominator of 36 (which includes 18) and 174 is 1044, which means that &lt;code&gt;it takes 6 revolutions of the chain (1044 / 174) or 58 turns of the crankshaft (1044 / 18) to line them all up again&lt;/code&gt;. The crank sprocket marker will be aligned with the yellow link on the chain after only 3 chain revolutions (as LCD of 18 and 174 is 522, 3 x 174) but the camshafts won't be aligned until that many more because they have twice as many cogs as the driving sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally expecting that the number of holes on the chain would be exactly divisible by the number of cogs on both sprocket sizes so that each revolution of the chain would position each sprocket in exactly the same position (e.g. if there were 180 links/holes on the chain). But that is obviously not the case if my analysis is correct. I am posting here to get either an affirmation or negation of my analysis. &lt;strong&gt;Essentially, is it common that the number of links on a chain is not divisible by the number of cogs on sprockets, which necessitates several chain revolutions in order to line up to the initial state?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T17:44:02.360" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T08:37:09.920" Title="Timing chain cycle vs. sprocket marker position" Tags="|toyota|timing-belt|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19417" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:22:30.843" Score="7" ViewCount="24763" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamborghini_Aventador#Veneno&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lamborghini Veneno&lt;/a&gt; and compare it for example to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_458&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ferrari 458 Italia&lt;/a&gt; I can see that Lamborghini used a V12 while Ferrari placed a V8 inside the 458 Italia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder why Lamborghini uses a V12 as it should be the heavier engine.&#xA;Also due to additional 4 cylinders it has more spinning parts and wearing parts. Shouldn't the V8 have advantages over the V12?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder why did the Lamborghini choose the V12 over an V8?  I find the V8, after the 6 cylinder boxster from Porsche, the best engine when taking agreement between weight, spinning parts, horsepower/torque and space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11771" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T11:11:46.153" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T05:42:00.160" Title="Why use a 12-cylinder engine over a 8-cylinder engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:01:36.097" Score="3" ViewCount="2411" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom's car was broken into 2 days ago, both drivers side windows smashed. We sent the car to an auto glass technician to replace the windows and remove the glass fibers embedded in the seats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They just called my mom and told her that the window mechanism is broken on the rear door, which I could see being possible. However they also said that the door latch was broken &quot;because all the rods are connected&quot; which is total bs imo, especially since we were opening and closing the door just fine before we took the car to them, and now they say that the door can't be opened? I am convinced that this is either their mistake that they are trying to get her to pay for, or that trying to pull a fast one on her. Or worse I wonder if they even damaged it on purpose so they could &quot;fix it&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to handle a situation like this where the technician is coming up with seemingly false facts, or even damaging property in an attempt to convince you to pay for additional services? I would also like to have people who know what they are talking about that verify a lock module doesn't have anything to do with a power windows mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;The mechanic just told us that the problem is the window regulator. I looked it up and it appears that the part is simply the mechanism that pushes the window up and down. The mechanic said that it controls everything in the door including the lock, and that when you open the door to service it the regulator &quot;flys apart&quot; and you have to replace it with a new one. He was also being extremely defensive when we asked any questions. Am I correct about the window regulator not being nearly as important and fragile as he makes it out to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11816" LastEditorUserId="11816" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T19:51:57.070" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T08:31:41.357" Title="Mechanic says lock is nonfunctional from broken power window?" Tags="|door|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19415" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:03:28.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your final sentence is the one that is subjective here. &lt;strong&gt;You&lt;/strong&gt; find the V8 best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V8's are good, but so are V12's - they have different characteristics and tend to be chosen for those characteristics. A V8 is a lot smaller, so can fit in a smaller space - where space is at a premium that may be the key criterion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With less space limitations, however, going for all out power and torque may be what you need - in which case a V12 will deliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can also build in requirements like noise or smoothness - both of these are selling points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me? I love a flat four Subaru boxer engine - so the above is just my independent view of those strange V-shaped engines :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:03:28.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19415" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:23:18.150" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're taking a particularly narrow view of engine configurations, when there are many more variables at play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is engine balancing; I6 engines (and by extension V12 engines as they are comprised of two I6 cylinder configurations) are inherently balanced and require less additional rotating balancing weight, or balancing shafts (common in I4 engines). For more information, see the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aonbwOxooGA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engineering Explained video&lt;/a&gt; on primary and secondary forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since each cylinder bank is essentially a straight-6 which is by itself in both primary and secondary balance, a V12 is automatically in primary and secondary balance no matter which V angle is used, and therefore it needs no balance shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V12_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V12_engine&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, horsepower and torque are not simply two numbers; they comprise a function over the entire RPM range. Porsche, for example, is notorious for winning races with less peak hp/torque numbers by making higher hp/torque across a wider range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Veneno has an improved variant of the Aventador's engine; it's clearly in the Veneno because it would be more cost effective than redesigning the chassis to accept any other engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;Lamborghini Veneno&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;6.5L&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;60° V12&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;740 bhp&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;235 kg&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;kbd&gt;Ferrari 458 Italia&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;4.5L&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;90° V8&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;562 hp&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;??? kg&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as why Lamborghini developed V12s much earlier in their portfolio, I suspect a number of considerations went into that engine selection, including engine bay dimensions available, desired sound, balancing considerations, the notoriety that comes with a V12 engine, power band, and the success/failure of existing designs, among many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary factor, however, appears to be direct competition to Ferrari:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Ferruccio Lamborghini set out to provide Ferrari with competition, he contracted Giotto Bizzarrini to design the engine for his car and, according to some accounts, paid him a bonus for every horsepower over what Ferrari's V12 could produce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The engine was designed from the start to be a quad cam 60 degree V12 - as an intentional snub by Mr. Lamborghini of Ferrari's single overhead camshaft per-bank design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamborghini_V12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamborghini_V12&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to illustrate the narrowness of your view, &quot;If V8s are ideal in every category, why does the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bugatti_Veyron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bugatti Veyron&lt;/a&gt; use a quad turbocharged &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W16_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;W16&lt;/a&gt;?&quot; &quot;Why doesn't everything have a V8?&quot; There clearly more variables to consider when designing engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for further consideration, the Ferrari 458 Italia is MSRP $239,000, while the Lamborghini Veneno is $4.5 million (based on the Aventador LP700-4, base price $441,000). Cost is clearly more of a concern to Ferrari on the 458 Italia than to Lamborghini on the Aventadors. This leads nicely into the advantages of a V12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;V12 engines deliver power pulses more often than engines with six or eight cylinders, and the power pulses have triple overlap (at any time three cylinders are on different stages of the same power stroke) which eliminates gaps between power pulses and allows for greater refinement and smoothness in a luxury car engine, at the expense of much greater cost. In a racing car engine, the rotating parts of a V12 can be made much lighter than a V8 with a crossplane crankshaft because there is no need to use heavy counterweights on the crankshaft and less need for the inertial mass in a flywheel to smooth out the power delivery. Exhaust system tuning is also much more difficult on a crossplane V8 than a V12, so racing cars with V8 engines often use a complicated bundle of snakes exhaust system, or a flat-plane crankshaft which causes severe engine vibration and noise. This is not important in a race car if all-out performance is the only goal. Since cost and fuel economy are usually important even in luxury and racing cars, the V12 has been largely phased out in favor of engines with fewer cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V12_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V12_engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to demonstrate the 'bundle of snakes' headers of crossplane V8s, here's a racing exhaust setup on one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dps5c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crossplane V8 Exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-05T23:24:10.457" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T23:24:10.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19414" CreationDate="2015-08-18T21:30:12.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes, it is by design&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... because it helps to equalize wear across the sprocket teeth and chain links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's why&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had originally shared a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vibrationschool.com/mans/SpecInter/SpecInter50.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; in the comments which presents the formula to calculate what's known as &lt;em&gt;hunting tooth frequency&lt;/em&gt;. Mesh rate aside, this is governed by the the number of teeth in the sprocket and chain, &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt; respectively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;gcd(a,b) / ( a * b )  // gcd = greatest common divisor&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mathematically, this is just a fancy rehash of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Least_common_multiple#Reduction_by_the_greatest_common_divisor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lowest common multiple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UpRcO.png&quot; alt=&quot;gcd and lcm relation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by choosing &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt; such that the LCM is high, one can better distribute the wear across the sprocket teeth and chain links by allowing for more chain travel before a given sprocket tooth and chain link mesh together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes important if a tooth gets chipped or damaged, or if one of the links in the chain causes undue wear due to (for example) manufacturing variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of LCM's for your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;lcm(36,80) = 720&#xA;lcm(36,81) = 324&#xA;lcm(36,82) = 1476&#xA;lcm(36,83) = 2988&#xA;lcm(36,84) = 252&#xA;lcm(36,85) = 3060&#xA;lcm(36,86) = 1548&#xA;lcm(36,87) = 1044&#xA;lcm(36,88) = 792&#xA;lcm(36,89) = 3204&#xA;lcm(36,90) = 180&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the chain had 90 links instead of 87, the hunting frequency would be 1044 / 180 = &lt;strong&gt;5.8x higher&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same reason, it would be better to have 85 links in the chain instead of 87 (roughly 3x longer before a bad tooth and link make contact again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might ask why Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, didn't choose 85 links instead of 87. There can be many reasons for this, including geometrical considerations, acceptable chain stress and the overwhelming pressure to follow standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T08:37:09.920" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T08:37:09.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19435" CreationDate="2015-08-18T21:50:49.920" Score="4" ViewCount="19106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do almost every automotive procedure instructions start by saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disconnect the cable from the battery negative terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T21:48:16.413" Title="Disconnecting negative battery terminal" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19416" CreationDate="2015-08-18T21:59:23.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electrical window regulator is exactly what the name suggests; it is responsible for providing a frame which the window glass can slide up and down on and house the window motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the door lock does not work any more it is highly unlikely that the window regulator is to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances, window regulators do not &quot;fly apart&quot; when taking the door off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I would approach the mechanic's claim - it's hard to argue with facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the door was functioning prior to taking the car in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;window regulators are designed to withstand a lot of load and repetitive abuse; exposing it to direct sunlight will not damage it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the car door has a manual lock, the mechanism is separate; if the car door has central-locking, the door lock actuator is separate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T21:59:23.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T22:07:42.963" Score="4" ViewCount="4368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was about buying nice Honda Shadow but the seller didn't know the model year of his bike. I saw many 17-digit vin numbers and I can decode it, but 11-digit vin is difficult and I don't know how to get model year from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know `N=400, C=Street, 34=Internal production..' But Where is model year? How to find the model year ? &#xA;I searched over 2 days, I found some links, but didn't helped me.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VIN = NC34-1002157&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11819" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T15:25:43.830" Title="How to find model year of this Honda Shadow bike 'NC34-1002157'?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="727" CreationDate="2015-08-19T01:00:19.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you have golf mk4 it's located under passages back door even with center of window about 12&quot; in. I have a 3 line fuel filter 2 from tank 1 to engine.make sure you order correct one.  the push clips are the trip :)ᙚᵐⁱᒻᵉ ¨̮ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11822" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T01:00:19.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T01:00:53.577" Score="0" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2005 dodge ram Daytona I have two codes, P0133 and P0420.  Can a low cat efficiency be due to a slow responding o2 sensor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11823" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T07:49:18.263" Title="O2 code and cat efficiency code" Tags="|dodge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:26:22.177" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a 1995 Mercury Mystique that was suffering from low idle problems (stalling out at stoplights, etc). He replaced the throttle position sensor, and after that the low idle problem was fixed, but now it idles a bit high, and - more importantly - the transmission isn't shifting into second gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidently this model has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fordcontour.org/recalls/99m03.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some issues with wires becoming brittle&lt;/a&gt;, and a bunch of the insulation has cracked when he messed with the wires, so we suspect an electrical problem - plus when the problem first came up, he just jiggled a bunch of wires and it (temporarily) fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've gone through and taped up all the wires on the TPS, the idle air controller, and various other connectors in the engine compartment. We ran through &lt;a href=&quot;http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/throttle-position-sensor-tests-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this test&lt;/a&gt; and the (new) TPS works fine - smooth transition, all the voltages correct, etc. The IAC has ~12-12.5V between the pins, so we don't think that's the issue. I checked all the fuses in the under-dash fuse box and no issues there, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From googling the problem, these symptoms seem primarily associated with the TPS. Is there anything else that would be likely to cause the car not to shift gears like this? If so, what is the diagnostic check for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="3279" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T02:37:11.633" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T23:27:48.657" Title="High idle, not shifting gears - 1995 Mercury Mystique" Tags="|electrical|automatic-transmission|idle|mercury|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19427" CreationDate="2015-08-19T03:52:00.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the P0420 catalytic efficiency can be caused by a bad O2 sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; a P0133 refers to the &lt;strong&gt;front&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor so things are a little more complicated than when people refer to a bad &lt;strong&gt;rear&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;front&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor is probably bad (P0133) and your cat and/or your &lt;strong&gt;rear&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be bad (P0420).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One cheap test for the cat is using a laser infrared thermometer to measure the before cat and after cat temps.  Point it at the pipe right before the inlet to the cat and then the pipe right after the cat.  I don't know exactly what your numbers should be, but you should see a difference on the order of 100 degrees fahrenheit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do see a temp change, your &lt;strong&gt;rear&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor is probably bad.  If there is no temp change, there is a chance the &lt;strong&gt;rear&lt;/strong&gt; O2 may be bad, but maybe not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. for others: &lt;code&gt;cat&lt;/code&gt; refers to the catalytic converter; &lt;code&gt;front&lt;/code&gt; means before cat; &lt;code&gt;rear&lt;/code&gt; means after cat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11/2005-dodge-ram-easy-way-to-diagnose-code-p0420?rq=1&quot;&gt;this related question.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:06:37.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19427" CreationDate="2015-08-19T07:49:18.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The rear sensor is used to calculate the difference in exhaust gas quality before and after the cat. In the simplest terms the ECM compares the voltages of the front and rear O2 sensors and if they're too similar, you get the P0420 code. Now, because the front sensor is giving faulty data to the ECM (P0133), the formula the ECM uses to calculate cat efficiency will yield inaccurate results. In this case, because the front O2 sensor sends garbage and the rear may be sending accurate data, it looks like the cat isn't working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a case of the front O2 sensor lying to the ECM and causing (potentially) phantom errors further along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual fix for a P0133 is to replace the sensor and inspect the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T07:49:18.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17165" CreationDate="2015-08-19T08:25:53.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that oil pan gaskets are 20 bucks stuff and they're easy to change at home by yourself.. It'll take you 30 minutes at most.. Jack up the car and do it yourself and save $$$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11827" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T08:25:53.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19416" CreationDate="2015-08-19T08:31:41.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Zaid says, the window regulator does not have any connection with the door lock control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suspect has happened is that they had to disconnect the door locks from the inside handle in order to remove the door card (the inner cover on the door), and in doing so they broke something and are trying to avoid paying to repair it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest finding out the official window replacement procedure (ideally in writing - perhaps your local Dodge dealer would help?), so that you know what they should have done, and let them know that you'll be involving trading standards and/or legal advice if they don't do it properly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T08:31:41.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19422" CreationDate="2015-08-19T08:34:34.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the possibility of short-circuiting the battery by removing the connection to 'ground' &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To make sure everything is switched off and unable to function while you're working on it. You don't want, for example, the electric fan to suddenly kick in while you've got your hands in there...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T08:34:34.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19411" CreationDate="2015-08-19T10:19:44.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this on a few bikes and it can happen for a few reasons. If it it's only happened a couple of times  i wouldn't be too worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a 'false neutral' when changing gears and instead of engaging the next gear the gears don't quite engage and you end up between them. Older bikes with higher mileage might be more prone to this. To avoid it make sure you're giving the lever good positive pressure and moving it the full distance of lever travel. It it also seems to help the gears engage if you hold pressure on the gear lever a little longer as you release the clutch. And maybe be a bit more gentle on the throttle when changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had bikes jump out of gear as you describe on a couple of occasions. I put it down to not having the gear properly engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had 1 bike that had a badly worn gearbox. 2nd gear was so badly worn that it would jump teeth. The edges of the gear dog teeth were rounded. I had the gearbox stripped down and had the gears 'undercut'. This puts a fine angle on the mating surfaces of gear teeth which means that under load they positively engage. This is not a simple task and should only be entrusted to an experienced specialist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it becomes a regular occurrence for you, you might be looking at a gearbox rebuild. Im not a vstrom expert but its possible there might be some adjustment or tolerances that might make a difference. Maybe even play in worn bearings might be a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I said at the start if it's only happened a few times i wouldn't be too concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2017-12-17T01:46:48.887" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T01:46:48.887" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T11:00:58.917" Score="1" ViewCount="2114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 MG Rover Streetwise, I need to remove or at least completely bypass the OEM Immobiliser.  Driver door lock is broken due to attempted theft, so no point trying to enter the code, the key fob has been destroyed due to an auto electrician's incompetence.  I have managed to get ignition, spark and fuel, the car now starts, but will only idle for roughly 30 seconds and cuts out again.  No loss on fuel pressure, coil doesn't show loss either and the fuel cut in the engine compartment is completely pressed.  I need this car running urgently!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11828" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:18:06.780" Title="MG Rover Immobiliser removal" Tags="|engine|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17940" CreationDate="2015-08-19T11:36:42.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Carburettor might be clogged. Clean it along with the air filter and you should be good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check if your &quot;choke&quot; chord is not faulty since it will tend to send a rich mixture to the engine which will stall it at low RPM and you get that &quot;Missing&quot; feeling but more importantly your fuel efficiency is affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T11:36:42.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19412" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:26:47.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you have either a faulty ignition switch or a break in your excitor cable somewhere (the small wire that goes live when you turn the key).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same issue on my Volkswagen Bora and traced it back to the wire, around 3 inches from the point it connects to the starter.  It made a tight bend back on itself and the heat of the engine had caused it to go brittle, loose it's insulation, corrode and snap.  Thankfully it was a very easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously is the ignition switch is at fault this wire will never be made live so this should also be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the make and year of your car incase there are specific peculiarities (such as an engine immobiliser) to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T14:26:47.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19411" CreationDate="2015-08-19T15:55:17.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phenomenon is called as hitting &quot;False Neutral&quot; while shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when the clutch is not able to engage the selected gear properly the drive shaft stays in the mode of stasis . i.e simulating the effect of the bike being in neutral. The only difference between a regular neutral and this one is that you don't see the neutral light on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cause:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all if its not a common occurrence then you don't need to worry since almost all of the bike are prone to this once the gearbox is old except the ones with the quick shifters(BMWs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old Gearbox.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No lubricant or oil in the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Badly maintained gearbox or bad shifts performed on a regular basis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a full clutch setup( i.e you have to depress the lever to its maximum)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a full clutch though being comfortable usually is one of the main causes of hitting false neutrals.I would advise to change the set up to half clutch depress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fixing the problem:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no way to &quot;Permanently Fix&quot; a false neutral issue, it depends on the bike and the gearbox and all of the above reasons, However you can do the below things to reduce the occurrence of hitting a false neutral on your next trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten your chain( Also check if the chain,sprockets are in good condition if not replace them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add fresh synthetic oil to the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a Half clutch setup( Meaning you need to depress only half of leaver to engage the clutch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional points:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shifting gears, keep the gear depressed with a constant force until the entire duration of the clutch engage. This is a extremely effective technique to avoid unexpected &quot;false Neutral&quot; occurances. For example when you shift from 1 to 2nd your feet will be under the gear leaver so instead of a nudge , after the nudge keep holding the leaver till the clutch is fully released. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above technique mitigates &quot;false neutrals&quot; almost in all situations. (Trust me I personally do this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; If for some reason you hit a sudden false neutral keep in mind to ALWAYS UP SHIFT , DO NOT down shift since on hitting the False neutral your RPM will shoot up and if you down shift it will put heavy strain on the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T15:55:17.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19444" CreationDate="2015-08-19T15:57:46.283" Score="4" ViewCount="5716" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ATV oil drain plug is an allen 6mm bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt was all rusty, and what I expected to happen happened - I stripped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of wasting times trying to remove the stripped bolt I drained oil another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the oil filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplugged the spark plug cable so that the engine does not start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started (keeping the key turned for approx 5 seconds, then wait 15 seconds between each iterations to avoid heating of the engine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to drain all the oil by the filter that way in less than 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness sake, I had to start to get the oil to drain because the oil was not reaching the filter otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any damage I may have caused trying to start with reducing oil level (until no oil at all)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ATV is a two cylinder Sportsman 700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastEditorUserId="6919" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T02:03:58.573" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T02:03:58.573" Title="What damages may I have caused draining oil by filter?" Tags="|engine|oil|polaris|sportsman|atv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T16:32:12.160" Score="4" ViewCount="1426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was researching the effects of lugging and came upon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;amp;Number=1143775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, one of whose answers claims that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;lugging is really hard on the connecting rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but without explaining why.  Can you explain the reasons why it is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SEE ALSO:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2148361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Why is lugging the engine bad?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T16:51:45.837" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T15:18:29.323" Title="Why is lugging hard on connecting rods?" Tags="|engine|piston|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19442" CreationDate="2015-08-19T18:02:19.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a good idea to run the engine dry like that because the bearings on the crankshaft need oil pressure for lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, some engines can run without oil for a short amount of time thanks to whatever residual oil is trapped between the bearing surfaces. I don't think you would spin a bearing with a limited amount of cranking, but you can expect the useful life of the bearings to be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quantifying the amount of wear is difficult because it depends on so many factors. Best not to repeat it and fix that stripped bolt before the next oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T18:02:19.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21334" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:30:05.773" Score="12" ViewCount="55664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 VW Beetle which has a nasty habit of melting the above battery high voltage fuse box. I've replaced it three times already and replaced the alternator as well, but I'm at a complete loss as to what's causing the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this is a known issue with VW's from that era, there's even a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gotaclassaction.com/volkswagen-named-in-class-action-over-fuse-boxalternator-cable-assembly/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;class action suit against VW&lt;/a&gt; that's still working its way through the courts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a real, permanent solution to this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R79QA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R79QA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11830" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T16:35:03.863" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T16:54:54.963" Title="Fuse box above battery melting" Tags="|electrical|vw|fuse|beetle|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19442" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:52:37.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to get my comments compiled into a full answer, to make sure we are thorough. Draining oil through the filter connection by running the starting motor to pump the oil brings a few concerns to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is the possibility that fuel will flood the cylinders as you turn the engine over without a spark to burn the fuel. As you said, the ATV started up fine after the oil change, so I doubt that this is a concern at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting motors tend to overheat very quickly. Even using the motor for 5 seconds with a 15 second cool-down period is exposing it to additional wear and tear if this is continued for five minutes. I'm sure that you didn't do any long-term damage just this once, but I wouldn't make a habit of it. Any extra wear and tear just means more chance of needing to replace it down the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The contamination and sludge in oil tends to settle at the bottom of the oil pan as oil cools. For this reason and for a more complete oil removal, most manufacturers recommend you drain the oil while it is warm. I imagine that pumping the oil through the oil filter connection did not address the sludge in the bottom of the oil pan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree with Zaid that the internal workings of the engine need oil for lubrication and cooling and the oil levels will naturally drop as you drain the oil. That's just more wear and tear that you don't want to have to deal with in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, that was a neat idea as a &quot;band-aid&quot; fix for your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T19:52:37.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T20:29:04.730" Score="5" ViewCount="4132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several years ago, on my gas engine 2003 F350, I replaced my auto locking hubs with Warn manual hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I am experiencing the dreaded A/C defaulting to the defrost vents under low vacuum conditions due to a vacuum leak. I have isolated the leak/low vacuum issue to the auto locking hub system &quot;vacuum solenoid&quot;. Is this piece still necessary with manual hubs? I was under the impression that the hub vacuum system was specifically for the auto hub system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T09:57:47.607" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T17:48:30.057" Title="Is vacuum line still necessary with manual locking hubs on an F350?" Tags="|ford|4wd|f-350|vacuum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T20:42:47.197" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Citroen C1. It's a basic car, but one that is nice to modify and improve yourself.&#xA;My car doors only have a single door weatherstrip to stop water getting in, the passenger side has begun to fail and on both sides air gets into the car and at high speeds gets very noisy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap between the edge of the door and the car is around an inch. What could I use to seal this gap effectively and could I use a seal like those shown here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automobiletrim.com/door-seal-rubber.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.automobiletrim.com/door-seal-rubber.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to put over the edge of the door to seal it, or will this just fall off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or would I be better off using a product like this to seal it and deflect the water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P-Type-Weatherbar-Draft-Draught-Excluding-Rubber-Seal-P-Shape-3-8M-Fit-All-Car-/121721580899?hash=item1c572bed63&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P-Type-Weatherbar-Draft-Draught-Excluding-Rubber-Seal-P-Shape-3-8M-Fit-All-Car-/121721580899?hash=item1c572bed63&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9521" LastEditorUserId="9521" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T22:43:25.010" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T22:43:25.010" Title="Extra door seal mod" Tags="|door|citroen|seal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T20:46:59.137" Score="3" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car keeps accelerating after shifting to 3rd/4th gear at random times. I would shift, take my foot off the pedal and the speed would, in one occasion, accelerate to 40kmh and maintain speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cruise control is not turned on. Nothing is pressing down the gas pedal. You can hear the engine accelerate and there is 3 small squealing sounds coming from underneath the car when this happens. Only 3, not more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership told me that they have found 0 issues with it and asked if I've driven standard before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight is welcomed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11831" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T10:41:13.923" Title="2015 VW Golf TSI Standard accelerating automatically" Tags="|vw|golf|cruise-control|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19395" CreationDate="2015-08-19T21:19:09.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I got it running! Just want to post an answer for anybody else that runs across this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It ended up being the &lt;strong&gt;Fuel Pressure Regulator&lt;/strong&gt; on the CPI Injector Spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a small and cheap ($35.00) part that is mounted on the side injector. and was very straightforward to replace. I simply had to remove the upper intake manifold, and all the necessary sensors/hoses/cables to access the injector spider, and replace the regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine that the issue was in fact the fuel pressure regulator, and not the fuel pump, I first checked the fuel pressure and saw that it was very low. I then blocked the fuel return line to the gas tank, and checked the pressure again. Pressure was very high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, my regulator failed, and was sending all of the fuel directly back to the gas tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapped out the regulator, and she fired right up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! Feel free to comment or message me if anybody has any questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T21:19:09.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T21:39:30.573" Score="4" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never had this issue before but I just started my vehicle and the tac automatically revved up to 1500 rpm when I cranked it. It didn't go back down while in park, it basically idled at about 500 rmp higher than normal. I put it into reverse and it jumped back down to normal speed. When I put it into drive it was fine. When I put it back into park it jumped back up to 1500 rmp, I put it in neutral and it did the same thing. So I put it back in park and shut it off. Interestingly it rolled forward a lot more than usual leading me to believe that it never actually went into park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 1998 Dodge Durango usually runs at 1500 rpm in 1st-3rd gear and around 1900 - 2100 rpm in overdrive. At idle it is typically running at or just under 1000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like a bad ass muscle car when it cranks now but this is weird and as I said, it's never done this before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put new tires on yesterday, the day before that I replaced the water pump and thermostat. It had a transmission flush a few weeks ago but it hasn't been slipping. I should mention that putting this thing in reverse has caused the vehicle to lurch a bit usually (but not always). Oh yes and there are no engine codes being thrown at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice/insight much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: just cranked it again and it functioned as normally... this is (for now) an intermittent issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9904" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T09:57:55.950" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T09:57:55.950" Title="Engine Running Fast in Park" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|dodge|idle|durango|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-08-09T00:54:33.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T21:59:54.127" Score="2" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a low use vehicle, it was historically recommended to keep the gas tank full.  The reasons were twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent rust from forming in the metal gas tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent water from forming in the gas tank due to evaporation and condensation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, I wonder if either of those two rationales apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any mainstream production vehicles that still use metal gas tanks?  If not #1 is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the advanced seals on current gas systems, is #2 still a factor?  If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, for a low use vehicle, I wonder if it is now advisable to keep the gas tank at 1/4 a tank or less.  When I say &quot;low use&quot;, I'm thinking of a vehicle that is driven 2-4 times per month for a total of about 100 miles per month.  That way, when it is driven, and a little fuel is added, more of the older gasoline is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle is driven 2-4 times per month for a total of about 100 miles per month, I don't think fuel additives are necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a low use vehicle (as defined above), in order to keep it healthy, how much gasoline should be kept in the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T22:14:57.363" Title="How much gasoline fuel to keep in tank of low use vehicle" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19452" CreationDate="2015-08-19T22:14:57.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another concern of leaving gasoline in a fuel tank is that it degrades. If left long enough, it will not burn as efficiently (if at all) and will cause many internal issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline in a fuel tank should be good for a minimum of six months before you need to start worrying about anything. Given you are driving the car 2-4 times a month for about 100 miles, you don't need to do anything special to keep anything in the car in good condition besides the typical maintenance (oil change, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to fill the gas tank to the top and just fill it up when needed without any treatments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2281/is-it-okay-to-leave-a-car-for-5-months-without-driving-it/&quot;&gt;Check out this link for more information about low-use vehicles.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T22:14:57.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19456" CreationDate="2015-08-20T04:56:22.610" Score="0" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't owned a hatchback and was wondering, holding everything else equal, if they perform better in snow than sedans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T16:32:26.530" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T16:32:26.530" Title="Hatchback vs sedan snow performance" Tags="|body|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19454" CreationDate="2015-08-20T07:08:09.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter. Everything else being equal, the car with the most neutral weight distribution would perform best in snow. I would even think that the car that has the bulk of its weight up front would be least inclined to skid or overstear. Usually, that would be a hatchback, but in these modern times most vehicle manufacturers build their cars with neutral weight distribution whether they're hatchbacks or sedans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T07:08:09.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19454" CreationDate="2015-08-20T07:16:56.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real world difference between a sedan and a hatchback is the added trunk(weight) and in some cases a longer wheelbase in case of a sedan.(Not counting Looks obviously)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above difference doesn't define the driveability of the vehicle on snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To drive on snow a AWD drive system with traction control and higher ground clearance is all that's needed no matter if its a sedan or a hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To support my above statement, take rallying for instance, the best performing cars are usually hatchbacks just because they weigh less than the sedan and have smaller turning radius allowing to pull tight corners. All of them have AWD systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the real world, its difficult to find a AWD hatchback(economical ones) so you are limited to sedans mostly if you drive on snow only or mostly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: It does not matter which one you buy since the performance in snow is not dependant on the vehicle being a hatchback or a sedan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T07:16:56.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19449" CreationDate="2015-08-20T10:37:53.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Think this is normal behaviour of a car which has upwards of 150/170hp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are in your 3rd or 4th gear your speed should be more than 40kmph below that the car might stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU is detecting the imminent stall and compensating by increasing the rpm and the speed of the vehicle , you do not need to press the accelerator for this to happen. Usually the acceleration should stop after a certain speed is reached. If the RPM reaches more than 2500-3000 then you have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what I mean is that you are in low speed at high gear shift down and this should not happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you can notice this more predominantly on diesel engine since they have more torque this is much more noticeable, you can drive them without pressing the accelerator basically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T10:37:53.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19454" CreationDate="2015-08-20T12:00:24.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very much depends on the specific vehicle and more so on the type of tyres fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, my old Lancia Delta HF Integrale 16V rally car (a hatchback) was brilliant on the snow whilst my fathers Lexus IS200 (a saloon) was awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T12:00:24.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T13:31:41.123" Score="12" ViewCount="52454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am struggling to get my &lt;code&gt;Peugeot 308 2-Button Remote Key&lt;/code&gt; back to work. I noticed first issues when my Remote Key unlocked / locked the car after several attempts. Then one day it suddenly did not work anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NEXT STEP: Change battery &amp;amp; Reinitialize the key&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's what I did, I bought a new &lt;code&gt;CR1620 battery&lt;/code&gt; and replaced the old one. I realized soon from the Car Manual that I will have to reinitialize / reprogram the key in order to get it to work. So I also did that, with following my Car Manual's instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Switch OFF the ignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Switch ON the ignition and immediately press and hold LOCK button on Key&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hold it for few seconds ( I held it for 15.. and on next attempt for 25s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Release the LOCK Button and turn OFF the ignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take out the Key and it should be working now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it was working only inside the car and &lt;strong&gt;ONLY&lt;/strong&gt; if I brought it very close to the receiver (which is located, I think, near the manual lock switch inside the car). If I tried it a from distance, while still sitting at the driver's seat, it did not work. If I tried it from outside of the car, it did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what's going here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sounds like a weak battery - but impossible, because I bought a brand new one and in next 10 minutes put it inside my Key and reprogrammed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After additional tests, I recognized that my key is working also on 5-10m! But the trick is, that I need to take off the cover of the Key Fob, to get to the circuit. And now, if I manually (with my hands) apply pressure on the Circuit towards the battery contacts, remote lock / unlock works! Unfortunately, as soon as I pack it back and close it with cover, the remote key is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think? Could it be something with battery contacts? I cannot see any faultiness / corrosion on them. Only the ones on Circuit board where (+) is going to look like they are a bit &quot;scratched&quot;, but I don't know how to fix that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11836" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T01:18:36.100" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T01:26:17.740" Title="Remote Key Fob working only inside the car (close to receiver)" Tags="|battery|key|peugeot|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T15:39:30.110" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I used my car to drive literally 2mins. Away from my dorm building to get to my class building and back because of bad weather. 30+mins. Later I come back outside and use my remote to unlock my car door and it unlocks but as soon as I try to start it , it doesn't turn on . So automatically I think it's the battery . I found a campus police and he jumped it for me and it started to crank up , and he told me it could possibly be a light that was left on . Mind you the light in my car when you open and close the door does not work we have to get new light bulb for it , so I don't know if a door is closed or not . The handle that controls the lights were off too . Then a friend told me it could also be either the battery or the alternator. However, the police told me to leave alone for a good 15mins. And that I did . In fact I waited longer than 15mins to check the car . And it cranked up fine , so I left it alone for the rest of the day. This morning, i go check on it and see if it's driving normal and it shows that the engine was on C . I did research and it says it is suppose to be in between the H and C . As I drive it goes up slowly . When I used the break it made a noise then stopped , then it started shaking a little as I used the break. So i have no idea what is wrong with the car . Does anyone know what it could be so I can take care of it immediately because I'm a college student away from home. Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11837" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:49:03.293" Title="Do I have battery or engine problems?" Tags="|engine|battery|brakes|coolant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19461" CreationDate="2015-08-20T16:05:25.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have several concerns here, so let me try to address them one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are worried about the car starting up properly. Since the engine would not turn over when you tried to start it, then it started right away with a jump start, it sounds like it was only the battery you need to worry about. Either you left a light on or something else that drained the battery or the battery is old and is having trouble keeping a charge. If you experience this issue again and are convinced you didn't forget to turn off a light, replace the battery. It is likely not the alternator as this doesn't have any effect on starting the car and the car would have died soon after starting it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As for the temperature gauge being between C and H, you are correct. At normal operating temperature, the gauge should be just below the halfway mark between Cold and Hot. When you first start the car, the gauge will stay at C for a few minutes, then creep up to the halfway mark as you drive it. This is completely normal and is what you want it to do. It doesn't sound like you have anything to be concerned with here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There could be many reasons for there being a sound when you hit the brakes. If it made a noise briefly, stopped, and hasn't done it ever since, you probably don't have anything to worry about. As for the shaking when braking, you should get it checked out immediately by a mechanic if it is severe. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6378/shake-while-braking-at-certain-speeds-intensified-with-steering-input&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for potential causes of shaking while braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T16:05:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2015-08-20T16:38:43.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car won't start, spray starting fluid into the air inlet, at the air cleaner and crank the engine. If it fires, then check the fuel pump and fuel quantity ground location inside the trunk (coming off the wire bundle to the fuel tank). if that has loosened, the pump and fuel guage will be intermittent and the car will be unreliable for no apparent reason. When the fuel guage will not work, it's a sure sign the car will not start. Also open the case to the main relay and check for &quot;cold solder&quot; on the relay circuit board, most likely where the large resistor is mounted. I found and repaired all these things on my '00 Accord and it now works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T16:38:43.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8160" CreationDate="2015-08-20T17:37:09.433" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe you should consider replacing the battery / is the general case when the battery light lights ups&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11732" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T17:37:09.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19481" CreationDate="2015-08-20T17:56:59.120" Score="4" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X61OL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X61OL.png&quot; alt=&quot;TWO DARKEST PATCHES&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stupidly scratched my first car using something too abrasive on the bonnet to wash it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is light blue/grey and I would say a metallic colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been advised turtle wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is waxing alone likely to improve the appearance of scratches? When wet the scratches completely disappear.They appear as patches, you can not feel the individual scratches, and have to look very closely to see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scratches do not appear deep, but are over the entire bonnet, making it look discoloured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at it from the side they look like lighter patches, if you look head on, they appear black/ darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me any advice, or name specific products I can purchase? I know absolutely nothing about this type of stuff, so any recommendations would be fantastic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11842" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T09:50:10.120" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:28:00.817" Title="Ford Fiesta Light Metallic Blue Scratch Repair" Tags="|ford|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T19:10:07.270" Score="4" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some time, I've had a problem with the performance of my Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi (Diesel): when accelerating hard in the 3rd or 4th gear, there was a performance drop and I sometimes had to go off the gas pedal for gas to be registered at all again. The drop was much more severe than a turbo lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strange thing is that after the temperature dropped one night by about 10°C (and has stayed at that level), the problem does no longer exist. I'm completely at a loss as to what could have been the problem. (The lambda sensor should not be sensitive to 10°C changes in ambient temperature, and I don't know what else would be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11843" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T13:49:15.063" Title="Ford TDCi 1.6: more performance in cold weather" Tags="|ford|performance|tdci|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T20:13:11.713" Score="3" ViewCount="56092" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to keep a gasoline-powered vehicle healthy, how often does it need to be started or driven?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please specify if it actually needs to be driven, or if just starting it and letting it run is adequate.  Also please specify if the air conditioning and heater need to be run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does that schedule vary with seasonal changes in temperature?  What about changes in humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:06:00.470" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:06:00.470" Title="How often to start/drive a vehicle to keep it healthy?" Tags="|engine|ac|heater|temperature|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19469" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19470" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T20:16:11.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19461" CreationDate="2015-08-20T21:22:39.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After jump starting the car, turn on the head lights, heater, rear windscreen heater etc.  if they all operate correctly, e.g the lights are full brightness and the heater fan sounds like it is running at normal speed, then your alternator is fine and the problem is your battery.  If the lights are dim, then the fault is the alternator.  After totally &#xA;flattening your battery due to a faulty alternator, there is a good chance your battery will also be damaged now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11846" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T21:22:39.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21709" CreationDate="2015-08-20T21:51:49.270" Score="2" ViewCount="7455" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Opel Agila has been replaced with one which is identical, but three years newer (2003). However, it has no Bluetooth, which is something I used a lot in my old car (2000)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I transfer the Parrot MKi9200 from the old car to the new car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just follow the installation instructions in reverse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to buy a new one for over £100, hence the question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T18:38:27.137" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T19:45:05.190" Title="How do I remove my Parrot MKI9200?" Tags="|opel|electronics|bluetooth|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19437" CreationDate="2015-08-20T21:59:07.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most cars, the immobiliser is difficult to remove/disable, as it is integrated into other systems on the car. For example, on my 2000 Opel, the immobiliser is linked to the ECU, which means the ECU would need reprogramming to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest going to the dealership, and bringing proof of ownership. They can then order in a new key and lock set for you. They can look up what key and lock you actually need from the VIN and number plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably be expensive, but it will be the easiest option, which will cause the least damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new key will also need programming, which generally needs to be done by the dealership computer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Seems that MG went bust a while ago... You could try contacting the MG owners club&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T10:12:53.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T10:12:53.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T22:43:24.880" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;My transmission in my 2000 Dodge Dakota comes out of gear shortly after I begin to drive, so what is my problem? I only have tried to adjust my 4 wheel drive shift. How do I diagnose this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T00:43:39.970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:43:39.970" Title="My transmission is coming out of gear just as I get going" Tags="|transmission|dodge|dakota|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:42:11.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T03:33:39.693" Score="5" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Ford Focus SE DOHC. Today, I opened the hood and found an unconnected red wiring harness (shown in the picture, it's the one with a question mark pointed at). I looked around the area but could not find any female connectors for it. When the engine is running, there were no warning lights or error messages. Though the car is drivable, I just don't want any part to break because this harness wasn't plugged in. Does anyone know where this harness is supposed to go? Thank you very much for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4E87t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4E87t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T15:22:52.020" Title="Unknown red wiring harness near cooling fan area on a Ford Focus 2004" Tags="|electrical|ford|wiring|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19468" CreationDate="2015-08-21T11:07:01.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the vehicle, why it is being left, and how it is prepared before being left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a vehicle that's in reasonably regular use, then I'd recommend making sure it's used at least once every week or so, and is driven far enough for the engine to get up to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run is better than nothing (e.g. if the car is not road-legal for some reason), but it's much better to actually use it, to get the oils circulating around the gearbox and differentials, and to keep the brakes working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle is properly prepared, it is fine to leave it for much longer (6 months plus) - connect a battery conditioner to keep the battery fine, add fuel stabiliser to the fuel in the tank, and ideally jack it up to avoid flat spots on the tyres. (see other questions on here about preparing a car for long term storage). It'll then need a bit of effort to 'de-winterize' it before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air conditioning needs to be used at least once every couple of months, to prevent seals etc from drying up. The heater shouldn't matter so much though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cold weather, it'll take longer for everything to get up to temperature, so you'll need to drive it further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that if a car is not used much, many parts such as rubber hoses, belts, tyres etc will perish sooner (in terms of mileage) than usual, so will need replacing based on time, not mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:07:01.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1674" CreationDate="2015-08-21T11:21:28.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same issues with my A4, 3rd gear grinding going in and out of gear. Then eased and was only grinding when being put into 3rd, (while working up and down the gears). Like you guys mentioned matching revs and putting into 3rd gentilly worked well but it's difficult to do depending on your speed, ie in a national speed limit zone compared to driving around town. I too thought I would get away with a change of oil. What came out was sop pretty, golden and sparkly but unfortunately it wasn't good news. there was so much sediment at the bottom of the pan its definite replacement gear box. Few hundred £'s plater we now have the pleasure of carrying out the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11854" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:21:28.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19466" CreationDate="2015-08-21T11:28:00.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Wax works, but it's a temporary fix&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wax will &quot;fill&quot; in the imperfections in the paint work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as the layer of wax wears away (rain, washing) the scratches/dullness/discoloration will return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell if your paint has clearcoat, but assuming it does, if the scratches are not too deep, a more permanent solution would be to use the microscopic abrasive action of a polishing compound and a dual-action polisher (or rotary buffer) to take out most, if not all of the imperfections in the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some simplified illustrations that show how compounding works (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rYed_Hnrql4?t=9m16s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Drive Clean video&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t28CY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Paint Imperfections&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After compounding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYBS7.png&quot; alt=&quot;After Compounding&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Following up with less abrasive polishes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Polishing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GafCn.png&quot; alt=&quot;After Polishing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Finishing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6nA8.png&quot; alt=&quot;After Finishing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:28:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19467" CreationDate="2015-08-21T13:49:15.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst technically a car has more power in colder air because the relative density of colder air is greater and therefore contains more oxygen than warm air, it should not cause the behavior you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like one of the sensors your ECU uses is faulty.  My first port of call would be to have a diagnostic scan done which will pinpoint any faults that car has registered and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T13:49:15.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19475" CreationDate="2015-08-21T15:22:52.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's C1311 for the power steering pressure sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQAcZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQAcZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T15:22:52.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20858" CreationDate="2015-08-21T16:25:29.263" Score="1" ViewCount="29299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speedometer stop working on My Opel corsa C 2006, it always shows 0 km/h although I am driving the car, before it stop working it vibrated some times and then stopped.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does it have a specific Fuse in Fuse box, or a cable to the panel?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;please help&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note: The light in background working good&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub4DL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub4DL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11855" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T13:11:38.767" Title="Speedometer stop working on My Opel corsa C 2006" Tags="|speedometer|opel|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19484" CreationDate="2015-08-21T16:46:16.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rest of the gauges in your dash are working, the problem is most likely the speed sensor which is located in the transmission. This is most likely a Hall effect sensor which reads a reluctor wheel attached to the final drive. It relates the amount of times per second the reluctor is tripped and transmits this back to PCM for interpretation. The PCM then tells the speedometer where to point the needle at so you can understand your speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; It appears that your Opel may be using one of the wheel sensors as the speed sensor. It is still the same basic issue, just in a different location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T00:06:19.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T00:06:19.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T18:53:14.000" Score="6" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Leon Cupra TSI 280 less than 2 months ago and done 1750 miles and the clutch has gone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it back to them with around 900 miles on and less than a month old with the problem as the clutch had twice stuck down and the Rev counter maxes out and car goes no where until pedal comes back up! Then it started doing it intermittent revving when changing gear but going no where but fine when setting off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it back the senior technician said that the clutch was soft and would harden up after a few thousand miles... And it's gone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've looked at it today and said they want 5 hours labour to strip it down then if it's something that's caused the clutch to go they will cover it under warranty! I refused as I'd taken it back to them with my concerned and they brushed me off... They are now looking at stripping it for free but I will have to pay for the clutch if that's gone without any component causing it! Surely a clutch that's playing up in under 900 miles on a performance car is not fit for purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions and advice please...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11857" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T20:57:09.373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:25:55.363" Title="Clutch gone on my Leon Cupra after less than 2 months of ownership" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19491" CreationDate="2015-08-21T19:09:25.287" Score="3" ViewCount="35620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always pump my tyres up to the maximum (like 45 bar), for maximum fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, does this affect road noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:26:33.903" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T10:09:39.420" Title="Does tyre pressure affect road noise?" Tags="|tires|noise|pressure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T21:21:36.947" Score="3" ViewCount="15671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 F150 5.4 Triton 3 valve. I've had a really bad issue, where a socket is stuck in my spark plug chamber and everything has failed to get it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The option I'm left with now is replacing the Head, but I'm not sure if I want to spend that much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The injector is shut down to that cylinder is it safe to run till I make my decision on only 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11858" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:45:06.833" LastActivityDate="2021-08-17T09:36:42.583" Title="Can I run on 7 cylinders if I shut the injector to that cylinder off?" Tags="|sparkplugs|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19488" CreationDate="2015-08-21T21:26:19.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr;  &lt;strong&gt;More pressure = less noise.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirereview.com/the-fight-against-tire-noise/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a pretty good write-up&lt;/a&gt; about the affects of tire noise. In the write-up it states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tires running higher inflation pressures generate lower noise levels compared to those with lower inflation levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This holds true to my line of thought because a flat tire (or very low tire) will make a lot more noise than a full tire will. According to the write-up, one of the reasons noise is created by tires is because air gets trapped within the tread pattern as the tire rolls onto the pavement and the car is pressing down upon the tire. As the tire rolls forward, the air is released and makes noise. This is reduced when the tire is fully inflated versus one which is low on air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons for tire noise, but needless to say, tire pressure is one of the factors of road noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T21:26:19.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19490" CreationDate="2015-08-21T21:29:32.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Obviously you'll be at a reduced power level, but no problems should occur from doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; While I believe this is a &quot;plug on&quot; application, you'll want to ensure your coil is not connected either. I doubt it will be down in the hole, but you don't want to have the coil attached to the wiring harness without it being able to throw electricity to ground somehow ... you'll burn out the coil doing that. Please also note, your dash light &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; light (check engine light) when you start. You will get some error about a misfire. When you get this fixed, you'll want to clear the codes. Also, consider taking the truck to a machine shop or a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; mechanic's shop which deals with Fords. They will have dealt with this problem before, undoubtedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:47:43.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T23:47:43.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19499" CreationDate="2015-08-21T21:36:21.237" Score="4" ViewCount="7189" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2003 Opel Agila, the ride is really bouncy. Whenever I go over bumps in the road, it feels like I am almost out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally a bouncy car, but it this one seems to be worse than the other Agila which I have driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make it less &quot;kangaroo like&quot; over bumps at speed (40+ mph)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: How can I test the shock absorbers before I replace them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:49:31.840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T10:22:30.843" Title="How to make ride less bouncy?" Tags="|suspension|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T02:43:16.790" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to hook up a under hood lamp to my Cadillac Escalade. A TSB (Technical Service Bulliten) from Cadillac says to never connect accessories to the vehicles wiring without using a diode to protect the vehicles electronic components. My question is which type of diode to buy, and how to connect it. I saw many types of diodes available on line but am lost. Please help. Thanks a bunch....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Saudi" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T23:34:36.517" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T00:00:28.777" Title="Automotive electrical question" Tags="|electrical|cadillac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19494" CreationDate="2015-08-21T23:37:15.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I have copied this answer from the comments above. They appear to be accurate and definitely answer the question. I didn't want the question to appear as unanswered.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For passive resistive load, I do not think the diode is needed. But if you would use a diode, you would connect your positive source voltage to the anode and your receiving equipment on the cathode side. Current would then flow to the equipment but would not be allowed to flow back to the power source. The more important components is FUSE. The function of a fuse is to protect the circuit (wiring) that it is attached to. If the wire is not fused, and the main power shorts to ground, the wire (or the car in worst case) will be burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of the diode depends on the current needed by the load (current = power divided by voltage). You can use 1N4002 for load current &amp;lt;1A, 1N5400 for &amp;lt;3A, or 1N5825 for &amp;lt;5A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T23:37:15.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19493" CreationDate="2015-08-22T03:34:06.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car feels like a galloping horse then chances are that the shock absorbers are non-functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old-school method of testing the shocks is to press down on the front or back of the car and let go. If the car rebounds up and down 2-3 times it means the shocks are not doing their job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shocks can be replaced, but they can also be reconditioned by specialists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T03:34:06.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19493" CreationDate="2015-08-22T10:22:30.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check if your suspension is kaput you will need to stand near each Axel and depress the fender, if it bounces up two or more times than they might be shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can manually inspect the suspension by checking each of the coils and dampers for any oil leaks (dampers) and deformities(Coils). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the above things are good then as paulster suggests , take it to a garage for a minor check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: what I usually do is take it to a wheel alignment shop and do smalltalk with the mechanics to know the condition of the suspension.. ( works most of the time and saves money ,also since they dont do  the service they will not recommend unnecessary part replacement also free advice) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T10:22:30.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T12:48:15.070" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to clear some misconceptions that i have about the obd2 scanning tools :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the difference between the high/low-end scanners is the software only?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the highend use more connection wires on the OBD port ( so they access special functions )?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the highend devices specific to a manufacturer?( so a good one will only work one brand )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the highend scanner read more PID codes? ( not about giving an explanation of the fault code )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can highend scanner reprogram the ECU?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;why I'm asking :&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I have a Delphi DS150E scanner and I use it on three cars : Hyundai Tucson ,Mitsubishi L200 Sportero and Nissan Pathfinder on the L200 i could do some advanced stuff like switching ON/off the fuel injector while on the other two all i can do is read/clear the PID codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;note:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;I know i should be asking one question at a time but these are all sub-question and fall under the main one&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9012" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:35:19.137" Title="what does the highend OBD2 scanner offer?" Tags="|obd-ii|scan-tool|flash-programing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T13:04:30.920" Score="2" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my Volvo s60 for regular 84k maintenance a few weeks ago and I requested to get my brakes and rotors checked. I was told that they needed to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I booked an appointment for three weeks later, and even asked if it could wait till then. There was nothing wrong with the brakes, no squealing or anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the car in for that appointment,  I was told that the caliper needed to be replaced, as I had gone too long with the brakes needing replacement. Is this normal, or am I getting screwed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11866" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T21:54:57.100" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:28:37.560" Title="Would waiting a few weeks to replace pads and rotors have damaged calipers?" Tags="|brakes|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19490" CreationDate="2015-08-22T13:11:23.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing worth mentioning is that running with a missing cylinder will result in engine vibrations that will be felt across most of the rev range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not cause damage in the short term, but will make for a rather annoying driving experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T13:11:23.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T14:04:58.173" Score="2" ViewCount="2751" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 Oldsmobile Alero has been stalling when I come to stop. This happens when I'm driving at speeds of at least 45mph and coming to a quick stop, for instance, when coming off a ramp from an interstate or when coming to a quick stop in traffic. It doesn't seem to have difficulty accelerator or keeping speed (sometimes the automatic shifting seems a bit hard). The stalling doesn't happen every time, but I really don't want to drive the car in this state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of months ago, I took it in to a mechanic but they were unable to reproduce the problem. This is probably partly because, at the time, I was having difficulty describing the problem. Also, it had only happened 2 or 3 times. But over the past week, it stalled almost every other day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, I noticed that I can reproduce what the car sounds like before it stalls. When I'm idling, I can rev up the engine a bit and quickly release the accelerator. Rather than smoothly slowing down to idle rpms (700-800 rpms), the tachometer drops rapidly to around 300-400 rpms then bounces back to once or twice to around 700-800 rpms and eventually settles. During the &quot;bounce&quot;, the engine audibly sputters in the same way it does right before it stalls. I've not tried, but I have a feeling that if I were to bring the rpms high enough, I could cause the car to stall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search online brought up numerous possibilities from one of the senors (TPS, crankshaft sensor), to a vacuum leak, to the fuel pressure regulator. If it is one of these things, it would seem like it would be relatively inexpensive for me to try to fix it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with automotives, but I'm good with electronics and don't mind getting my hands dirty. The results I'm finding online seem to be all over the place. What are some things I could do to narrow down the problem? Or does this sound like something I should take to another mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7655" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T17:46:23.563" Title="Oldsmobile Stalling at Stop" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19361" CreationDate="2015-08-22T15:20:20.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I tried?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently (today) tested OBD II on my Maruti Suzuki WagonR made in mid 2013. I'm using some cheap quality Bluetooth BT connector (borrowed from friend) with Free version of Torque (OBD scanner/reader Android app). Live readings while driving car were good. Pretty much valid. No issues so far. I plugout the connector while leaving car as it consumes battery and it broadcast BT pairing. BT pairing is pretty easy for anyone. &#xA;Online seach indicates, any vehicle made after April'2013 is OBD II compliance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Need more details from you:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is manufacturing month year of your MS Swift Petrol car? You can figure it out from VIN number in case you are not very sure. As old vehicles are not supproted for OBD II, it might cause unknown issue. Remote possibility. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What Android app you tried and how? Connection type, wifi or Bluetooth or direct cable? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checking gauges is fine, it's just read only data. You can not change any config on PCB using those android apps. I don't think, it's really due gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you tried removing OBD connector/scanner and start the engine? Also try to send if you have any log report of OBD scanner. Any errors codes reported by app? It's possible that app isn't getting Coolent temparatur and Engine light details. See for error codes if any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see, your question is pretty fresh. Did you still face issue or seen mechanic or dealer? MS is pretty good in service, try them. I guess, they do attach OBD while doing servicing but they exactly know what they do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know with more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11868" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T15:20:20.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T17:24:39.640" Score="3" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I cleaned up the corrosion on the terminals of my car battery.  I have a 2010 VW Jetta.  I used a toothbrush and baking soda mixed with water to clean the battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the terminals are clean, but my container I used for my baking soda solution now contains some bits of the corrosion from my dipping the toothbrush in there repeatedly to clean the terminals.  I have mixed sufficient baking soda in the solution that any acid that remains has been neutralized.  I am wondering how I should dispose of this now.  With it no longer being acidic, is it safe to pour down the drain?  I know car batteries often have lead in them, but I wasn't sure if this lead would transfer into the corrosion on the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5114" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T03:43:04.590" Title="How to dispose of battery terminal clean up leftovers?" Tags="|battery|cleaning|disposal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19503" CreationDate="2015-08-22T17:46:23.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The culprit is probably a sticky or malfunctioning Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Lucky for you it is located right on top and connected to the throttle body. You can try taking it off and cleaning it, making sure not to play with the pintle (plunger) itself, as the gears inside which actuate it can easily be broken/stripped. Use some carburetor cleaner both on it and in the throttle body area where it comes out of. You may find that the passages are partially blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cleaning it doesn't work, you'll probably need to replace it. Luckily, they aren't really that expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9tan.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9tan.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xBV9BmjFZVs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; points out exactly where it's at. The guy is talking about a high idle problem, but if the IAC isn't functioning correctly (ie: slow to react) it can cause the issue you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T17:46:23.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T18:33:15.540" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mom recently got a brand new Tacoma and the dealer told her that she might want to consider Ethanol-free gas as it would prevent the engine from becoming &quot;jacked up&quot; (damaged) if not driven for a month or longer. She lives in a tropical region (not sure if that's relevant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about this and thought I'd ask for advice from someone (anyone) with actual knowledge on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7958" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T18:52:33.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:01:53.533" Title="Would ethanol-free gasoline avoid damage related to low usage?" Tags="|gasoline|ethanol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T18:04:48.610" Score="2" ViewCount="18106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kraftsmann 550 series push lawn mower with Brigg and Stratton engine that runs for about 10 minutes and then sputters and dies. I can start it again after prime it again, but it will run for less than 10 minutes and then dies again. each time I restart it, it will run for shorter time. here is what I have done&#xA;1. cleaned the carburetor, cleaned fuel tank&#xA;2. replaced diaphragm&#xA;3. replaced spark plug&#xA;4. replace the blade&#xA;5. tried loosing fuel tank cap when it starts to sputter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but non of the above seemed to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what else could I still do? &#xA;thanks for your help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11872" OwnerDisplayName="raymond yang" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T00:16:44.663" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T08:20:31.880" Title="kraftsman lawn mower runs for 10 minutes, sputters and dies" Tags="|repair|carburetor|lawnmower|briggs-stratton|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19519" CreationDate="2015-08-22T22:01:40.997" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '96 Saab 900S has multiple symptoms, and I suspect multiple problems.  For one thing, it gets the error code: &lt;code&gt;P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcrQ9o_nst8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video of my vacuum test results&lt;/a&gt;.  The idle speed and vacuum pressure tend to fluctuate mildly, and if the A/C is on, the idle speed oscillates 200-300 RPM and the vacuum drops below normal.  Intake leak maybe?  Or exhaust blockage?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After holding the throttle at a higher RPM for a few seconds, the needle goes crazy!  Bad slip rings, I suspect.  But there's also this ticking sound, which &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; change with the speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my best theory is a combination of bad piston rings and either an intake leak or exhaust blockage (bad cat?).  I'd appreciate any advice as to what to check next, or tips from folks who have seen this sort of problem before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastEditorUserId="9541" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T22:20:11.353" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:37:07.553" Title="Needle Going Wild in Engine Vacuum Test" Tags="|engine|saab|vacuum|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T00:10:44.593" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a caravan with unknown disk brakes.&#xA;The disk is 220 mm in diameter and 10 mm tick.&#xA;What vehicle are these from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11874" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T09:13:11.840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:13:11.840" Title="what vehicle disk brake diameter 220 mm tickness 10 mm" Tags="|brakes|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19507" CreationDate="2015-08-23T00:15:35.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-ethanol gasoline will help, but won't alleviate all of the issues with the gas. The problem with ethanol based gasoline is that it absorbs water. When it sits long enough, the water in the gas will start to corrode the gas tank. It will also start to create solids in the gas, which can clog fuel filters and damage fuel pumps and possibly even the injectors. You'll get varnish build up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Mom's best bet is to use a fuel stabilizer in the fuel, such as Sta-Bil. This will help prevent the gas from going stale. Gas, whether ethanol or non-ethanol, will only be good for about a month without the stabilizer. With the stabilizer, depending on the amount used, will be good from one to two years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, the main thing your Mom really needs to worry about are seals which may dry out. She needs to drive the vehicle at least once a month. When she drives it, it needs to be completely and thoroughly warmed up. A 10 mile drive should do what needs to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T22:01:53.533" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:01:53.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19508" CreationDate="2015-08-23T00:21:16.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the problem will be solved with a new carburetor. Ethanol gas can plug ports and/or cause float issues. What you are describing is your fuel bowl filling up when sitting still, then you run it but the feed provides enough fuel to not keep it completely filled (or filled to where it's supposed to be). So after a few minutes of running, it dies due to fuel starvation. You reprime and it starts back up, runs for a little bit and dies again. If you let it sit for a long period of time, the fuel bowl will probably refill and you'd be able to run it again for another 10 minutes or so. I don't know if this is &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what is going on, but will bet it is fuel related and then the carb is the root of the issue. I've found on small engines, it's easier and cheaper (when you consider the amount of time you spend working on it ... what is your time worth?) to replace the carb rather than trying to rebuild or cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T00:21:16.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19505" CreationDate="2015-08-23T03:43:04.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should throw it in the regular trash.  When possible, it is almost always preferable to dispose of something in the &quot;solid&quot; trash rather than adding it to the wastewater (down the drain).  While wastewater goes through elaborate processing to remove contaminants, if a thing can be disposed of by other means, it is better to do so rather than adding it as another substance which must then potentially be removed from wastewater, which is recycled to the greatest extent practicable.  Similarly, if you are cutting up and cleaning vegetables or fruits in the sink, it is better to scoop out as much as possible and throw it in the trash rather than let it go down even through the garbage disposal.  It's just logical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11875" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T03:43:04.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16588" CreationDate="2015-08-23T05:40:18.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A vacuum leak will not cause this problem, it will just idle faster with a leak on this engine. Because it runs well above idle it is not likely that any of the ignition parts are at fault. Although the transmission fault code could indicate a problem that could cause idle problems that is very rare. Cleaning the throttle body usually fixes this problem, but you did that with no result. Cleaning and testing the idle air control valve is next. You need verify that all the cylinders are sealing well, a leaking intake valve can cause and will show symptoms first at idle and then later at higher power settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: 30 years automotive diagnostics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T05:40:18.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19490" CreationDate="2015-08-23T06:07:58.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine is unlikely to be damaged. This is not true for the catalyst. With one cylinder pumping air into the exhaust the mixture sensors (oxygen sensors) will see this as a lean condition and try to compensate by enriching the others on that bank. This results in a uneven mixture at the catalyst, which can damage it. It OK to drive to the shop of your choice, but no farther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: 30 years automotive diagnostics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:07:58.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19500" CreationDate="2015-08-23T06:35:19.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want all the functions and data for a given vehicle you need the OEM scanner. $$$  No generic scanner will cover all the functions and at times the data is missing or wrong. Several brands of clones are available.&#xA;They all use the same port and communication protocol is determined by the onboard computer so no, they do not access different pins in the connector. Generic OBD2 has a very limited PID set that varies by year with more added as the years went by. OEM units will access all the PID's for that vehicle plus all the other available computers. There all always many more PID's on the OEM and in newer vehicles hundreds more.&#xA;Reprogramming requires subscriptions to the OEM sites that have costs.&#xA;I am not familiar with your Delphi. I use two OEM scanners&#xA; daily and have clones that purport to be identical but are not.&#xA;A place for all the OEM scanners.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nastf.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nastf.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: 30 years automotive diagnostics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:35:19.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19509" CreationDate="2015-08-23T06:42:43.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a leaking intake valve. The needle swing coupled with the &quot;tic&quot; sound are classic symptoms.  Off comes the head. After repair of the engine problem clear the codes and see if the CAT fail code resets. Poor combustions can fool the catalyst test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source: 30 years automotive diagnostics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:42:43.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19527" CreationDate="2015-08-23T12:42:50.437" Score="7" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern engines produce more horsepower with more fuel economy but with the same procedure of burning the fuel air mixture and moving the piston,  but the old ones and new ones are both four cylinders and do the same thing, so how do they do this and what are the difference berween them??? Do the compression ratio or fuel:air ratio have to do anything with it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="11366" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T12:58:55.897" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T09:46:13.463" Title="How do modern engines differ than older ones" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19509" CreationDate="2015-08-23T14:05:34.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, I doubt anything you've stated is at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet the vacuum port you used for testing is associated with another device which is where you heard the &quot;ticking&quot; sound. As this alternate device is turned on/off, it is causing the wild vacuum readings you are seeing. &lt;em&gt;If I were to guess&lt;/em&gt;, I would think you are probably reading fluctuations due to an Exhaust Gas Recovery (EGR) valve which is electronically controlled via solenoid (the solenoid making the ticking sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move your test apparatus to a different, non-shared direct vacuum port, you'll probably find a truer vacuum reading and the crazy vacuum readings will go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the P0422 code, it can be one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad cat (obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad O2 sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test which it might be, the most accurate method would be to test the inlet/outlet temps on the cat with a laser thermometer. Run the engine up to operating temperature before you make your readings. Take your readings as close to the cat as you can, but still on the inlet/outlet exhaust pipes. If the readings show the front temperature to be close to or above the temp of the outlet, the cat is bad (or going bad). If your test shows that the outlet temp is much higher (100°F+), the O2 sensor is most likely bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T21:37:07.553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:37:07.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19461" CreationDate="2015-08-23T14:49:03.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the battery issue goes - one other thing to check is the battery connections. Open the hood and look at the battery connections and feel with your hand if the two wires (positive and ground) are fixed securely to the terminals. A loose cable can cause intermittent problems because the normal motion of the car (going over bumps, etc.) can move/jog the cable enough to prevent starting the next time you try to use the car. This problem could lead to the symptoms you describe (unable to start, even though you didn't leave lights on or anything). Jumping the car would potentially work in this case because it could jog the cables enough to cause a better connection. I had this exact problem last weekend :)  The solution is to remove the battery cables, clean the terminals and connectors (sandpaper works for this) and reattach the cables, making sure they are nice and tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, &lt;em&gt;wear eye protection&lt;/em&gt; because the battery often sparks when you reattach the cables and this can (very rarely) lead to explosion of the battery gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:49:03.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19522" CreationDate="2015-08-23T15:48:30.597" Score="10" ViewCount="6054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have creases or small tears running throughout the perimeter of my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIqrP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIqrP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this warrant replacing the tire completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11878" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:25:48.280" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:25:48.280" Title="Should a tire with cracks along the outer perimeter of the sidewall be replaced?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19521" CreationDate="2015-08-23T18:20:05.790" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only seen wear like that in tires that are around 10 years old. What does the date code say? Have you ever let a rubber-band sit for years? You are risking tread separation by driving them like this. If you can afford the tires you should replace them. An accident at high speed will cost you more than the tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T18:20:05.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19521" CreationDate="2015-08-23T18:44:20.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer...Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T18:44:20.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19521" CreationDate="2015-08-23T19:22:41.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the date of manufacture, (0811) those tires are over 4 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This alone is reason enough to not use the tires as the rubber will harden over time, even if it hasn't been used, let alone with peripheral cracks like the ones shown!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T19:22:41.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T20:11:35.380" Score="2" ViewCount="7798" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dash temp gauge reads in the middle between hot and cold within a few minutes of running. However, it takes about 20 minutes for hot air to come out the front heater vents when the heater is set to maximum heat and the fan is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the coolant was low so I filled the coolant using the reservoir up to the &quot;full&quot; line. I tried running the van again and took it back up to normal operating temperature. No change (still no heat). I then located the heater core inlet/outlet tubes. The easiest access to them as far as I can tell is from inside the van, they come in to the right of the gas pedal. I touched them, one was very hot, the other was quite hot but I could hold on to it without getting my fingers burnt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, what should my next move be? Take it to the mechanic? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I added even more coolant from the radiator (after waiting until it was cold). It took quite a bit. It has been pointed out to me that I have a coolant leak that I need to get checked out. After adding the coolant I again ran the van, sitting in the driveway and revving the engine to about 3000 rpm for a few minutes. The temp gauge read normal (midway between C and H) and the heater core pipes were both very hot to the touch. I turned on the blower and initially it came out hot but then went back to being cool again after a short while. That was last evening. However, this morning when I took the van to work, the heater blew hot air quickly, as it used to. At this point I'm not sure if I'm dealing with an intermittent problem, or if it's working properly now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another update: heater is still working fine. Had to add yet more coolant though as reservoir still showed significantly below &quot;full&quot; level. This morning the check engine light came on. Taking the van to the mechanic's to see what's going on (might be coincidence, don't know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastEditorUserId="11839" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T01:29:47.513" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T14:39:08.537" Title="07 Toyota Sienna Heater takes 20 mins to blow hot" Tags="|toyota|heater-blower|sienna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4598" CreationDate="2015-08-23T20:50:44.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive smoothly.  Avoid braking (safety first, don't crash to save fuel ;D ).  Braking turns the kinetic energy into heat energy, therefore the fuel you have burnt to propel the vehicle is now being dissipated through the brakes via friction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned previously, many people put the vehicle in neutral when coasting.  This is wrong, a modern engine will sense the road turning the engine via the transmission, and therefore supply much less fuel to the cylinders. In neutral fuel will be needed to turn the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T22:03:12.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:03:12.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19518" CreationDate="2015-08-23T21:35:04.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It's true that modern engines produce more power&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stats tell it all, but here's a quick example in numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;1976&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;BMW M17&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;1990 cc&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;113 hp&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;2011&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;BMW N20&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;1997 cc&lt;/kbd&gt; &lt;kbd&gt;340 hp&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But some things will never change&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Air + Fuel = Bang + Emissions&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical equation governing internal combustion hasn't changed. This means that the optimum air-to-fuel ratio  (AFR) will have stayed the same regardless of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how do they do it?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some ways in which more power is eked out of a modern-day engine with the same displacement as an older predecessor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;More ( Air + Fuel ) = More ( Bang + Emissions )&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physics doesn't limit you on how &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; air and fuel is mixing in a fixed cylinder displacement. As long as the AFR is maintained, adding more air and fuel into the combustion chamber will result in a bigger bang, hence more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, auto manufacturers have achieved this through many means, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Increase intake manifold pressure&lt;/em&gt; - free-flowing air intakes, dynamic charging, ram-air intakes, turbocharging, supercharging, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Improve &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;volumetric efficiency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; - variable valve timing, more valves per cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Higher compression ratio&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More squeezed air-fuel mixture = more bang, because that's what thermodynamics dictates¹&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers have been able to bump up compression numbers over the years from typical (for petrol) 9.0:1 ratios to 11.0:1 (13.0:1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17871/675&quot;&gt;in some cases&lt;/a&gt;) through various techniques, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moving to an interference-engine philosophy where the valves and pistons occupy the same physical space at different times&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Astute piston crown design that &quot;fills&quot; spaces with material where it's not so advantageous to have combustion gases &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Direct Injection&lt;/a&gt; in gasoline engines&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Better air-fuel mixture control&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fuel injection&lt;/a&gt; allows much finer control over the air-fuel ratios than what would previously have been possible with carburettors, though the big plus here is lesser emissions than higher power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of petrol engines, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gasoline direct injection&lt;/a&gt; takes it to the next level by homogenizing the air-fuel mixture better to squeeze out even more efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Better engineering&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many things have changed in the engine design landscape. Engineers now have access to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better materials - this allows them to push design limits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better manufacturing capabilities - tighter tolerances, more intricate designs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better modeling abilities - which allows them to better optimize designs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better understanding of engine theory/design - every generation of engineers builds upon the work of those who came before them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - it's got to do with the area under the H-S diagram, applicable for any thermodynamic cycle (Otto &amp;amp; Diesel included, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T09:46:13.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T21:42:41.783" Score="4" ViewCount="2728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Toyota Prius, and where I live there are only two types of gasoline: 90 and 95 (RON). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the refueling section in the car manual it says:&#xA;&quot;Use unleaded gasoline. (Octane Rating 87 [Research Octane Number 91] or&#xA;higher)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does 90 RON correspond to a rating lower than 87?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the 90 RON gas? What are the consequences if I do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11882" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:12:31.427" Title="Proper fuel type for Toyota Prius 2011" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|prius|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19525" CreationDate="2015-08-24T02:20:01.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things may have changed, but I had this happen to my '94 Toyota Pickup. It was a bad thermostat. On that model it was built into the radiator cap. Basically, it gets stuck open and takes longer for the engine to heat up enough to operate the heater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cold engine test: Start the engine. Time how long it takes the engine to warm up enough to produce heat when the heater is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it takes more than five minutes for the heater to produce heat, it is a sign that the thermostat is stuck open, allowing all the coolant to flow all the time. It takes a good deal longer for the engine to warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Removing and Testing the Thermostat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are still unsure whether the thermostat is stuck, perform the following procedure to get an accurate diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Disconnect the negative battery cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drain some of the coolant (a gallon should be enough) so the fluid won't pour out when you perform the next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the upper radiator hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the thermostat housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Locate and write down the temperature stamped on the lip of the thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fill a pot with cold water and a thermometer and place on a stove burner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place the thermostat into the cold water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Turn the burner on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Watch the thermometer. When the temperature rises to the number you recorded in step #6, the thermostat will start to open. If it does not, or if it doesn't open until reaching a different temperature (hotter usually), then the thermostat is bad and should be replaced. If it opens at the designated temperature, then the thermostat is just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Determine-if-a-Cars-Engine-Thermostat-is-Stuck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions are kind of generic. If it's anything like my old truck, the thermostat is built into the radiator cap and it's trivial to remove and test. Check your manual to find its location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11885" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T02:20:01.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="930" CreationDate="2015-08-24T03:55:37.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a craftsman push mower with an eager 1 or tecumseh engine(i think they're made by the same company)down an alley one day. the next day, i found a john deere push mower on the side of the road with a 3.5 horse briggs on it which appeared to be brand new and in mint condition, but when i brought it home, I noticed the right rear wheel was literally tearing off of the deck. this was obviously a P.O.S from walmart made with beer can thin sheet metal. So I kept the motor, handle, and blade. The craftsman mower had a broken cable, so I jerry rigged it by removing the brake (which stops the motor) and connecting a toggle switch, even though it was a little more dangerous. the handle was also a little bent, but the deck was heavy duty and it still served its purpose. after using it for a couple of weeks, the tecrapseh threw a rod(I probably should've changed the oil). I swapped it with the briggs from the beer can thin john deere deck, and luckily the handle fit right on to the craftsman deck too, and the cable was exactly at the right length, so I had a new engine and a straight handle with the safety feature in tact. The engine had been sitting crooked on my garage floor for a few weeks, so some oil had leaked into the piston and I had to pull the string without the spark plug a few times and oil sprayed everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I poured out the old oil and poured in some new stuff before even starting it. I had trouble seeing the full line on the dipstick, so I poured in a whole quart and thought too much oil was better than not enough. It started up on the first pull, and of course I was expecting some smoke from oil leaking into the cylinder head, but the smoke was so thick and was showing no signs of stopping. and of course the d-bag driving by in a prius was giving me a smug look. I was able to see the level on the dipstick after it ran for a few minutes and some old left over oil mixed in, it was quite over filled. I poured some out, runs like a champ with no smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think over filling will do too much permanent damage to small 1 cyl push mower engines, but it's probably much worse for larger riding mower engines. Either way, if you over fill, be ready for a hell of a smoke screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11886" LastEditorUserId="11886" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T04:07:31.263" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T04:07:31.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T04:10:10.193" Score="1" ViewCount="1643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 mustangs v6 3.8l The smog pump is not working (I think its an electrical problem) but that's outside of the point. I live in Oklahoma and we have no emission stuff (Amen!!!) so can I just delete the codes it popping up? unless it will make the engine run worse, why should I fix it unless the electrical problems will cause more damage (the service light for the smog pump stuff has been on for over 2-3 years) so I don't think it will. based on FORscan, it gave me two pcm codes p1000, P0411 and obdII P411.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:24:00.677" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T12:18:34.850" Title="2000 mustang 3.8l v6 smog pump issues" Tags="|ford|mustang|smog-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19528" CreationDate="2015-08-24T04:51:44.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a good explanation of RON vs MON for gasoline octane, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.refiningonline.com/EngelhardKB/crep/TCR4_29.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Refining Online&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your vehicle requires Octane Rating 87 (which is probably (RON+MON)/2) or RON 91, and your fuel choices are RON 90 and RON 95, then technically it is most likely that only RON 95 will meet the requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?  If the manufacturer considers RON 91 to be about Octane Rating 87, then RON 90 will likely be less than 87.  There is no direct conversion possible, because these are measurements, and not absolute units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it matter?  Hard to know.  Using a lower octane fuel than recommended can result in the fuel/air mixture self-igniting (commonly called &quot;knocking&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T04:51:44.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19540" CreationDate="2015-08-24T05:33:16.277" Score="4" ViewCount="3483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving my golf and the clutch pedal was creaking a bit but working ok, suddenly i pushed the pedal down it clicked and went to the floor i got recovered and the mechanic showed me the cable coming through the bulkhead splitting the metal around it. I repaired the metalwork but went to reatach the cable but the clutch cable doesnt pull enough to work and wants to pull the cable through the bulkhead again,any ideas why this would do that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11887" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T16:30:46.230" Title="golf mk1 1990 clutch problem" Tags="|clutch|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19755" CreationDate="2015-08-24T05:53:45.240" Score="3" ViewCount="11992" Body="&lt;p&gt;My central lock was working fine until yesterday. When I used the key, it clicks but doesn't unlock the doors as it should. Then I tried the second time, no clicking sound this time and nothing happens as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did is use the passengers side door to gain entry. I can use the key to unlock it but if I do not hold it, it returns to lock position. So you need to hold it on unlock position and open the door simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon entry, I tried manually unlocking the doors using the central lock but it wouldn't badge. So I started the car and after a few seconds, tried unlocking the doors again and to my surprise it unlocks. I tried a few times and it was intermittently working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before this happens, my car was exposed to continuous heavy rain for about two days (just parked in front of the house). So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is likely the cause of this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does a wet key hole (soaked probably) or wet key affects the central lock system?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now it is working, but I don't want to be caught off-guard where it doesn't unlock or worse won't lock during trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T02:23:39.407" Title="Central lock intermittently working" Tags="|mazda|locks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T06:17:02.167" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 98 Mazda 626 4 cylinder 2L engine where are the freeze plugs and how hard is it to replace them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T19:24:57.863" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:24:57.863" Title="Changing Freeze Plugs on a Mazda 626" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|diy|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21336" CreationDate="2015-08-24T06:39:31.877" Score="2" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a 98 Mazda 626 2 liter with an unknown coolant leak from the area in the back of the engine.  Seller says a mechanic that quickly looked it over said he thinks it's either the head or the freeze plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick history, my exam of the car and then a pic.  He was driving and noticed the car was starting to heat up, pulled over and saw he was loosing coolant.  Immediately took it into a shop and they saw one of the heater core hoses was leaking and replaced it.  He went back out and started driving, but saw he was loosing coolant again ( quite quickly ) and it was starting to heat up again.  Had it towed to a shop and they gave him the above report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to look at it and started filling the rad.  Noticed that it started immediately giving a light drip near the back of the engine ( I could just barely reach the spot and it was clean water ).  Ran the engine a few minutes and the speed of the leak increased significantly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what his mechanic meant by that it could be the head or plugs.  There doesn't appear to be any water getting into the oil ( dipstick and under the oil fill cap didn't have anything frothy ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pipe is the exhaust pipe.  The leak is presenting slightly left of engine rear center towards the drivers side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/018sX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/018sX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; it's the plugs, I have a theory that it's due to a sticking thermostat.  If it was sticking closed that would explain why one leak developed right after another, and it sticking open would explain why I saw water start leaking way back there as soon as I started filling the rad?  Could it stick closed then stick open like that?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do you guys think?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T06:48:02.763" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:17:16.127" Title="Mazda 626 with Unknown Coolant Leak" Tags="|cooling-system|leak|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T07:05:29.393" Score="3" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;After working fine all day, this afternoon I noticed my engine had heated up so hot the needle was above the red.  I pulled over and there was steam coming from a small space on the radiator and it appeared to be 'spitting' anti-freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it cool down and checked coolant level which was almost completely empty (not even near minimum) - I don't usually drive this car, and had only been using it for a week so didn't expect this.  I had been told that a low coolant level could cause pressure to build up in the radiator and lead to the 'spitting' leakage I had encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I topped up the coolant and took it for a short test drive, again it heated up with the steam and 'spitting'.  I don't know much about cars, is there anything I can try to fix myself or does this need a mechanic to look at it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11888" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T08:28:34.160" Title="Honda Accord 1997 - Steam coming from small part of radiator, leaking coolant" Tags="|troubleshooting|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19537" CreationDate="2015-08-24T07:44:48.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of quick checks you can do before taking it in to a mechanic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;See if the radiator fans are running&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the fans that sit behind the radiator in the car's nose. If the fans are not running then the cooling system is unable to throw out the heat generated by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fans are not running:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Check the fuses and relays&lt;/em&gt; - a burnt fuse or bad relay will prevent the fan from running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inspect the fan wires&lt;/em&gt; - have they gone brittle? Is there a break in the wiring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Check for leaks&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compromised hose or loose connection will readily explain coolant loss; the remedy will be to replace the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usually an overflow tank hose which is designed to empty the system if the system pressure is too high. If this is responsible for loss of coolant then there something is not allowing the cooling system to shed heat. In such situations, a stuck-closed thermostat may be responsible also.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look at the coolant&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is oil in the coolant (looks like mud or creamy mayo) this usually indicates issues with the head gasket and/or cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt; - Pressure build-up results in low coolant level if an overflow tank is present. The question reverses the causality, which isn't true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T08:28:34.160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T08:28:34.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19510" CreationDate="2015-08-24T08:13:14.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caravan and trailor manufacturers use a variety of brands for brakes, axles and hubs stubs and rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These could be surplus car items or purpose made for trailers. For example Trojan &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trojan.co.nz/stub-kits-disc-c-23_26.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trojan.co.nz/stub-kits-disc-c-23_26.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details about the make,  model, year, and country of origin of your caravan might help identify them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also photos of the disc, hubs calipers and even rims might help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T08:23:15.817" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T08:23:15.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19533" CreationDate="2015-08-24T08:21:23.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a common problem on the Mk1 that the clutch cable pulls through the bulkhead and the repair plate is usually all that is required, however you may find that this no longer gives you enough travel on the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undo the two interlocking nuts on the gearbox end of the cable and remove them completely.  Thread the table through the fork split in the release arm and reassemble tightening only until the cable is tight against the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the clutch pedal and see where the bite point is.  You can adjust these two nuts to move the bite point around under your left foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it seems that the cable is trying to split the bulkhead again, it may be that you've fitted an inferior quality strengthening plate.  The ones I've fitted have been the stick on types that attach over the original bulkhead metalwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T08:26:08.713" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T08:26:08.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19534" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:19:23.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Zaid says, it sounds like a problem with the actuator. Are you trying to open it with the key, or a remote? I presume key from the way you've phrased it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the key, then it'll be the actuator in the driver's door - i.e. the switch that is activated when you turn the key. I suspect from your description that water has got in somehow, and caused a short to make it think the key is in the 'lock' position - hence it trying to lock the door again when you used the key on the passenger side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to tell by taking the door card (the inner trim of the door) off and looking for signs of water ingress, otherwise I suspect it'll be a case of removing the actuator and testing it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:19:23.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19501" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:28:37.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That doesn't sound normal to me, I can't see how low pads or worn discs could cause problems with the calipers (unless they were so worn that they were causing metal-on-metal braking and the extra heat caused problems, but then you'd have known something about it by the horrific noises it would have been making)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:28:37.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19488" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:44:01.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyres pumped up to 45 bar would probably explode... What car do you have, as even 45psi sounds high for a normal car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always inflate your tyres to the manufacturer's recommended pressure. Over-inflating will lead to increased wear (so you'll have to replace them more quickly, negating any fuel saving!), and poorer grip and handling, leading to increased skid risk... Under-inflating has equally bad problems...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:44:01.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19544" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions relating to trailers, caravans and other unpowered, towed vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19545" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to trailers, caravans and other unpowered, towed vehicles" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:45:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19528" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:12:31.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a non-turbo, non- high performance engine, there's a lot more leeway when it comes to low-octane fuel. However, the Prius has a pretty high compression ratio (13:1), so it will be more sensitive to low octane fuel than if it were around 11:1 or even 12:1. But as others have said, the knock sensor would prevent serious problems. Plus knock usually only happens when you're driving hard and putting the engine under lots of stress (ergo heat). If you fill up with low octane fuel, don't race around like an idiot and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:12:31.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19488" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:21:44.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently (in the last three months) started running my tyres at relatively high pressure on my daily driver as I'm a hypermiler and higher pressure does indeed decrease rolling resistance and improve in-gear coasting range.  Obviously I never exceed the manufacturers stated maximum printed on the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not noticed and appreciable difference in tyre noise at all so suspect that in most cases, higher pressure will not lead to any increase in cabin noise and if it does, the cause should definitely be investigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:21:44.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19518" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:30:35.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to me there are 3 major events or advancements which have contributed for most of the efficiency and improvement of the modern engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Electronic Fuel Injection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elimination of the carburettor meant that the Air Fuel  Mixture ratio can now be adjusted to a higher degree and an optimum and combustion environment is possible for the engine ultimately improving 3 major factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better Power output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better fuel economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better Emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introduction of an ECU was also a stepping stone for much more digital involvement within the motor vehicle ecosystem.(More on that below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Forced induction(Turbochargers)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forced induction especially by turbo charging the engine was another milestone which was pioneered with the modern engine paved way for numerous advantage over a naturally aspirated engine. Though the turbo was present since the 50s it wasn't until the late 90s and more recently that the turbo has made its way into most everyday production cars. There are innumerable advantages of having a car with forced induction(especially a turbocharger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High performance by comparatively smaller capacity engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of having a big block N/A engine, the modern engine sizes have drastically reduced with the latest &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_EcoBoost_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ford Ecoboost&lt;/a&gt; engine producing around 125 hp of power from a 1 litre engine. This reduce in size itself has many benefits like better fuel economy with no compromise in power, weight reduction of the engine, less C02 output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kbCB.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kbCB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less specific fuel consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when you are not using the boost from the turbo your car is a measly 1.0 liter ford returning good fuel economy but you are not compromising on power.The best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improving upon the above point, turbos work on the exhaust gases which are usually wasted in a naturally aspirated engine thus its providing more power without producing more C02 for example A 3.5 liter N/A engine producing 400hp will produce higher amounts of C02 than a 2.0 liter turbocharged engine producing 400hp when both are at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a days you also get VGT or variable geometry turbo which morphs according to the user needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Digitization of the engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the most important milestone achieved with the modern engine thanks to the computer and the semiconductor industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the components of the modern engine are governed by at least one on board computer.This automation allows to achieve unprecedented efficiency compared to mechanical and analogue operation. The below are the important parts which are weaved into the digital environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right from the Air intake , we have the MAF sensor which senses the amount of air coming into the engine giving that parameter to the ECU to calculate the amount of fuel needed for optimum combustion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable Valve timing: This technology changed the way valves were operating , the entire combustion process or the otto cycle was optimised thanks to this milestone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Zaid states, Direct injection which allows even more control of the Air fuel mixture coming into the cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Lambda or O2 sensor which measures the proportion of Oxygen in the exhaust gases telling how the previous steps performed and tweaking the next combustion cycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tons of other computer aids working on the modern engine making it much better than older ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other points which need mention:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of better materials for engine construction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faster introduction of new technology into today's cars unlike the olden days where it used to take years of testing before making into production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better Testing and diagnostics tools and options available to the user.(again computers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am aware that most of the above mentioned points were invented a long time ago but it was the recent times they became practical and had an actual advantage on the modern engine design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T11:19:53.067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T11:19:53.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19531" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:33:33.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to think about getting it fixed vs. ignoring it. In this case, the problem is more than likely in the solenoid which directs air from the pump to the cat. Depending on the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; malfunction, you could be seeing decreased fuel mileage and also damaging your catalytic convertor. There are some reasonable tests which were written up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OBD-Codes.com&lt;/a&gt; which might help you do your own diagnosis of the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a scan tool, with KOEO (Key on engine off) command the AIR pump on. It should activate. If it doesn't, remove and inspect the AIR pump relay for discoloration/melting due to heat. Repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the ignition on (engine off) check for battery voltage at the switched battery feed to the relay and the relay control circuit. If either of these isn't present, inspect circuit for blown fuse or open/short in the wiring. Repair cause of short and retest. If they are both present, jumper the battery feed to AIR pump feed circuit using a fused jumper. The pump should activate. If not, check for power and ground present at the AIR pump when jumpered. If there is no voltage/ground present at pump repair open in wiring harness. If voltage and ground is present, but pump still does not run, suspect a bad AIR pump. If after jumpering the AIR pump feed circuit the pump activates then the problem is likely the AIR pump relay. Replace and retest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scan tool activates the AIR pump, with KOER (Key on engine running) activate the AIR pump solenoid valve on and see if there is vacuum to the cutoff valve. It should have vacuum present to open the valve. If there is no vacuum present, check the AIR pump's vacuum solenoid valve for vacuum supply from the manifold. If there is vacuum present then the vacuum solenoid is likely bad. Replace it. If there is no vacuum present at the supply to the vacuum solenoid, check for a plugged or damaged vacuum line or plugged vacuum port. But if there is vacuum present at the cut-off valve, shut the engine off and using a vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the cut-off valve and see if it holds a vacuum and that air flows through it when vacuum is applied. If it doesn't hold vacuum or the valve doesn't flow when vacuum is applied, replace the cut-off valve. If the cut-off valve works properly, inspect the check valve for obstruction or to see if it's missing. Replace as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the steel line to the exhaust catalyst as well as the exhaust ports for damage or holes that could give a false reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1000 is a generic Ford code which simply states all of the on board tests have not completed. This is basically a throw away code, so until you get the P0411 fixed, the P1000 code will continue to pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you are going to continue to have the check engine light illuminated whether you fix the smug pump issue or just pull the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:33:33.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19534" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:49:25.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things that could have gone wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Actuators present in the driver side door which control the lock/unlock possibly due to rain. I am specifically saying driver side door since only it has 4 wire connections, two for the actuator and 2 for connecting to the central locking chip. So in essence it can control all other doors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The main board which is usually present near the steering column which actually sends signal to each of the doors to do what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no real way of testing if its actually gone wrong without manually inspecting it, what you can do is, test if its working fine for sometime and if its fine for days they its as zaid says , due to water and might have caused malfunction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T10:49:25.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T10:55:39.017" Score="6" ViewCount="10892" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past 6-8 months my 2011 (&amp;lt;40k miles on the clock) Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec has started to stall. A lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worse in busy traffic with a lot of stopping and starting or at a slow speeds such as approaching traffic lights, however in recent months it's started happening on dual carriage ways and motorways at 60-70mph. It can go for a week without stalling once, or some days it will stall 10-15 times in a single 30 minute journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The revs idle at around 750rpm, which will then judder between 1,500 and 400-500rpm, at which point it will either recover itself and return to normal, or more often stall. There are no fault codes, no lights or warnings on the dashboard and it's since passed an MOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery has been replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've cleaned the MAF sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We ran a test on the idle sensor, which apparently is fine (though I'm no expert)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had it plugged in at an engine mapping specialist and they couldn't find any errors on the sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a similar post (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4931/2000-ford-focus-low-idle-stalling-at-lights-white-smoke-from-exhaust-p0171&quot;&gt;2000 Ford Focus, low idle, stalling at lights, white smoke from exhaust - P0171 Code - problem?&lt;/a&gt;) but it seems that vehicle has other issues and is 11 years older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any ideas I'd be really grateful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2018&lt;/strong&gt; - The car was returned to a Ford dealer for its service and MOT, the fault was demonstrated to a Ford mechanic but after extensive diagnostics, an issue could not be found. Due to consistent stalling while entering roundabouts and on the motorway, the car was scrapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11891" LastEditorUserId="11891" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T08:44:38.287" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T11:08:45.067" Title="2011 Ford Focus 1.6 (UK) stalling often" Tags="|ford|focus|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19521" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:10:25.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a almost complete tread separation on a 6 year old tire on the front while driving on the freeway.  Luckily I heard it start thumping and was able to get off the road right away.  The other front tire was about to start doing the same thing.  I replaced all 4 since they were about the same age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now believe it's a good idea to replace the tires after about 5 years no matter what the mileage to be safe, but that's a personal opinion.  Reading the manufacture date code on the sidewalls is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Determining the Age of a Tire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11893" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T13:10:25.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:15:42.693" Score="6" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be the possible cause of oil leaking into the radiator when the engine is running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the O-rings on the oil cooler and pressure tested the cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11895" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T09:50:54.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T09:50:54.933" Title="Engine oil found in the radiator - how did it get there?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:35:02.550" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2008 Ford Escape. The Emission Control System Light turned on because I was running out of fuel. I was able to reach a gas station and put some gas but the light remains. Any thoughts about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11896" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:48:38.097" Title="The Ford Emission Control System light remains steady" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19632" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:57:29.263" Score="3" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a motorcycle novice and want to learn how to maintain a bike and fix problems that may arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a few great videos that have elucidated some basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How a motorcycle engine works: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m2EGXlwMIs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m2EGXlwMIs&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Basics of a motorcycle electrical system: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUziJ9XDsxQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUziJ9XDsxQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been reading the service manual for my bike, and will soon be attempting basic maintenance including replacing the chain and sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Are there any books that are routinely given to beginners to explain basic concepts in motorcycle diagnostics and repair? Esp geared towards people with no mechanical experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Is there a &quot;bible&quot; reference book for bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Any good online resources / YouTube channels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you can only learn so much by reading / watching, but you have to start somewhere in terms of theory. This is in preparation for a long bike trip. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11593" LastEditorUserId="11593" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T14:05:55.123" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T02:10:49.387" Title="How to learn motorcycle maintenance theory" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19555" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:09:13.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to read, then clear the codes. The code may not be what you think it is from (low fuel). If you clear it and it comes back, you know you have a larger issue. If it clears and doesn't come back, all is well in Whoseville.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T14:09:13.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19554" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:30:02.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil cooler is one possible place where oil and coolant could mix, but there are other culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;compromised head gasket&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can allow oil to mix into the cylinder head's cooling jacket&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;warped cylinder head&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T14:30:02.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:26:17.800" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Ford Taurus with 128,000 miles. I need to replace my ignition coil and wires, but I'm seeing some new coils for around $35 and some for around $120 (Both online and in stores). The discrepancy between wire sets is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are some manufacturers or retailers able to sell for so much more, while others sell for less? I'm looking for a thorough answer that will help better familiarize me with how the industry works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11899" LastEditorUserId="4939" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T20:57:03.623" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T20:57:03.623" Title="How are some manufacturers or retailers able to sell for so much more, while others sell for less?" Tags="|ford|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:52:44.523" Score="3" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an automatic 2006 Nissan Altima and am having what I assume is a transmission issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have not recently been driving, my car is slow to shift into 4th gear. Normally it will shift and I will be around 1400 or 1500rpm when I'm going 35, but when I am first driving, I will be around 2300rpm for maybe around half a mile before it shifts and I drop back down to around 1500. Once it has made the shift once though, it is perfectly fine for the rest of that drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody know what would be causing this? Is this something fixable without having to replace the transmission, or is that a sign of overall wear on the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11900" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:29:03.373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T23:52:06.233" Title="2006 Altima slow to shift into 4th when running cold" Tags="|transmission|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19568" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:41:22.233" Score="4" ViewCount="30878" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two weeks ago, I replaced my cork/rubber valve cover gaskets on my 84 2.8L V6 Ranger since the old ones were leaking pretty badly. I forgot to adjust the valves when I did the gaskets, and now I'm thinking it should be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they need to be changed again or can I just reuse the old gaskets? I didn't use any type of sealant, if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T17:48:02.153" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T19:14:14.997" Title="Do valve cover gaskets need to be replaced every time you reopen the valve cover?" Tags="|valve|gasket|valve-cover|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19561" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:48:42.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no issue in reusing new rubber valve cover gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with cork gaskets, but assuming they don't permanently deform under load then even these should be reusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:48:42.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T19:33:31.683" Score="1" ViewCount="2110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Celica with about 180k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my car has been off for a few hours and I try to start it up, if I try to press on the gas (either in drive, reverse, or park) within a few minutes, it starts sputtering and sounds like the engine is about to stall. If I let the engine run for 5 minutes, I step on the gas, and off we go. Other times when I am driving, it sounds like it's doing the same thing when I press on the gas too quickly (like at a stoplight); if I ease into it, it's fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be any difference in cold or hot weather. The check engine light is on, and when diagnostics were run, the guy at autozone said the engine might be running lean. My brother-in-law (not professional) suggested cleaning the mass airflow sensor (haven't done this yet, since reading some horror stories of people trying to do this themselves). I've read around that the overdrive, which I always leave on, might be an issue. I've had the oil and transmission fluid changed, and it didn't seem to affect it at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one have any ideas of what to do? Starting with the least expensive, of course, unless it's inevitable that I might have to spend an arm and a leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11901" LastActivityDate="2017-08-26T17:28:46.557" Title="2000 Toyota Celica GT stalls with acceleration few minutes after starting" Tags="|engine|toyota|stall|celica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19566" CreationDate="2015-08-24T20:16:31.557" Score="10" ViewCount="25781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed in several new vehicles the following scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle is traveling with LED day-time running lights around/adjacent to the headlights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle activates turn signal indicator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle shuts off LED running light while turn signal indicator is flashing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED running lights turn on once the turn signal indicator stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the cars I've seen seen this happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jeep Grand Cherokee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Audi Q5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kia Sportage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ford Focus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't the LED running lights stay on while the turn signal is on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T03:42:31.273" Title="Why do LED running lights turn off while the turn signal is blinking?" Tags="|headlight|safety|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T20:31:04.230" Score="4" ViewCount="31283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission with about 180k.  I wanted to get a second opinion on what I'm observing to see if there's a problem (which I think might be starting) or if there's nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday while driving on the freeway up a mountain (posted speed is 55MPH and I was going about 60MPH but slowing down due to the mountain), I let up on the gas b/c someone signaled to get into my lane.  After they merged in, I pressed the gas to keep my current speed.  However, the engine acted like it was switched to neutral, in that when I pressed on the gas, the engine revved but it didn't go anywhere.  I let go and pressed again, and this time, I felt my car get pulled by the engine.  I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard the first time so I don't know why it revved high, other than my transmission is starting to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second incident occurred about 1 wk ago while driving down an expressway (posted speed is 45-50MPH but there are traffic lights).  I was going about 35-40MPH.  Traffic started to open up a little so I was accelerating up to 50MPH.  However, it seemed like the car didn't switch gears.  I could hear it rev high but I think the car was still being pulled by the engine/moving.  I let go of the gas and pressed again and this time, it seemed like the gear switched in that it didn't rev high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider myself an aggressive driver (no jack rabbit starts, no flooring the gas pedal, no hard braking, etc.) and I don't remember these things happening before so when it happens while driving, it's a little scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these 2 events an indication of my transmission starting to go out or am I just being an alarmist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T09:01:35.143" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T19:00:54.803" Title="What are some signs my transmission is having problems?" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|accord|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19564" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:15:09.170" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main purpose for this is so other drivers can see your turn signal. The LED lights are so intense, they do not allow the oncoming driver to be able to see the turn signal. By turning the LEDs off, it becomes readily apparent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:15:09.170" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19569" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:24:09.760" Score="3" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 84 Ranger with a 2.8L V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car seems to have a fair amount of electrical issues, but mostly really minor. I noticed that A LOT of the wiring harness is cracked or frayed, just because of its age. Some of the wires will occasionally short against the block as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do not make replacement harnesses for this motor (there's universal ones out there), so I am wondering what would be the best way to protect a cracked/frayed wire. Should I just wrap everything in electrical tape as needed, or is there a better way of accomplishing this? Heat shrink tubing seems like it could work, but it would be rather hard to do, since I would need to take off each individual connector and untangle the entire harness to put it around the affected spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2018-08-05T16:48:26.113" Title="Cracked &amp; frayed wire everywhere!" Tags="|electrical|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19561" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:25:20.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cork - always replace. (this includes rubber covered cork)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber - replace if deformed or damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On newer vehicles with the molded rubber ones which fit into a slot (I've seen on valve covers, intake manifold runners, etc, etc, etc) are good as long as they are pliable (still feel soft/subtle ... not hard or brittle) and are not damaged. So much better than cork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:25:20.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19567" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:29:13.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use electrical tape to accomplish this, but the better way to do it would be to individually replace the broken wire portions using lengths of wire, solder, and heat shrink. This would be the safer, longer lasting solution. It's a lot of work, but well worth it in the end. The only issue would be the color coding of the wire, though black heat shrink will cover it up anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; As an aside, if you have some which are &lt;em&gt;really bad&lt;/em&gt;, you may want to do those few on the car, then take it off (if that is your plan). It would really suck to get wires mixed up from complete breakage. Also, &lt;strong&gt;only do &lt;em&gt;one wire at a time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't want to mix them up in the process. Also, only replace the amount of wire you need to with the amount of wire needed to make the wire the same as it was before. It won't ruin anything if you make them longer, but they'll be hanging out all over the place looking ugly if you do. You want them to go back to the same shape they were prior to making the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T22:05:36.520" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T22:05:36.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19561" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:44:18.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since there are only a few weeks old and you didn't use sealant, you should be able to reuse them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I would replace a cork one but since they are so new, I would just check them for any damage from removal and reuse them if not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage usually comes from drying out and overheating but you shouldn't have problems with either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10719" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:44:18.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19573" CreationDate="2015-08-24T23:09:15.253" Score="5" ViewCount="1533" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila 1.2 Petrol, has a high air intake. Here is the approximate location of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMT73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the engine bay, showing the air intake on the left.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wO7xf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wO7xf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the height of the bottom of the chassis the maximum height I can drive through without hydrolocking? (This question is bordering on offtopic, sorry!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I hydrolock, even though the intake is really high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any risks of other mechanical failures (like destroyed electronics)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:17:00.693" Title="What are the implications of driving through flood water when I have a high air intake?" Tags="|engine|electrical|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19578" CreationDate="2015-08-24T23:57:22.253" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine purchased a new vehicle. Unlike vehicles in the past, this vehicle does not require you to insert a key to open the doors or run the car. The key merely must be within a couple feet of the car and the doors unlock and the engine can be started by pushing a button without needing the key physically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This presents and obvious security problem. For example, getting something out of the trunk. Since my friend would be close to the vehicle, the doors are unlocked and someone could simply enter the unlocked vehicle and start the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my friend, this remote works off of some sort of radio wave mechanisms. My friend thinks the best way to resolve this problem would be to purchase a case for the “key”/remote so that, as long as the case is on it, no signal can be sent to the car and thus problem avoided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good known solutions to this problem? If putting a case on the key is the best solution, what are the ideal characteristic in such a case? I don't really know what my friend needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9188" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T00:44:09.557" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:59:54.390" Title="Car door unlocks and motor can be started via remote when I don't want it to. How do I prevent this?" Tags="|key|fob|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19571" CreationDate="2015-08-25T00:12:47.200" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want an intake that will likely survive deep water, you're going to need something more like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79hgJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79hgJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jeep with deep water intake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the height of the bottom of the chassis the maximum height I can&#xA;  drive through without hydrolocking? (This question is bordering on&#xA;  offtopic, sorry!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would I hydrolock, even though the intake is really high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might think that you're in the clear for deep water because, you know, intake is pretty high and all.  However, are you certain that that's as low as your intake tract goes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car, the intake is in approximately the same place.  The air then passes down near the passenger's front wheel through a silencer and then back up to the air filter.  In the silencer, there's a little hole to allow the occasional splash water a place to drain.  Obviously, if water can get out, it could potentially get back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that your maximum depth is the lowest point of the intake tract.  However, I provide no warranty on that estimate.  If you're really worried, find another route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be any risks of other mechanical failures (like destroyed&#xA;  electronics)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course.  It's very common to end up with water in the spark plug holes, especially in an inline engine.  If you look, your battery is lower than that intake point.  At a bare minimum, you should expect something dramatic if you submerge your entire battery while trying to run the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better, if the water is higher than the tops of your wheels, I'd expect the car to start floating (or at least getting light and scary).  If you spent too much time in a puddle deeper than that, I'd start worrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as always, never drive into flowing water if you don't know the depth and the current.  People die like that disturbingly easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:17:00.693" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:17:00.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19585" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:40:32.527" Score="6" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this o-ring :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYliy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYliy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b23f8f8700223e478cb03/carburetor-2-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this full diagram&lt;/a&gt; if you need a more global view :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDhpq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDhpq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness sake, here are the real parts :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where the o-ring goes :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZLE4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZLE4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where the little hole leads :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vN0cZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vN0cZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The other end of the path is at the top of the venturi :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/26TpI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/26TpI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another hole :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIjlE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIjlE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which leads there :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5gKU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5gKU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Little hole in caps where o-ring goes :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeSzE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeSzE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And for completeness, what goes inside :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0vcN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0vcN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both-side view of the diaphragm :&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/svBic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/svBic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the result of this missing o-ring ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypothesis is that a bad acceleration would occurs since air flow would be corrupted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am-I right and why ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastEditorUserId="6919" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T22:14:39.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T22:14:39.027" Title="What could be the result of this missing o-ring?" Tags="|carburetor|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T03:19:05.247" Score="2" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Buick Park Avenue: none of the windows work, except the front driver side.  None of the driver controls work to control them either.  Checked all fuses which are OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11905" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T12:08:08.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:36:01.487" Title="98 Park Avenue Windows won't work" Tags="|power-windows|buick|park-avenue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19580" CreationDate="2015-08-25T04:20:28.520" Score="6" ViewCount="5063" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every motorcycle I have seen has its air intake mounted such that it is sucking in air from the direction opposing travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to fluid dynamics, if the intake is made to face forwards, the engine would benefit from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram-air_intake&quot;&gt;ram-air effect&lt;/a&gt;, which can result in higher engine power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the Wikipedia article does say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While ram-air may increase the volumetric efficiency of an engine,&#xA;  they can be difficult to combine with carburetors, which rely on a&#xA;  venturi-engineered pressure drop to draw fuel through the main jet. As&#xA;  the pressurised ram-air may kill this venturi effect, the carburetor&#xA;  will need to be designed to take this into account; or the engine may&#xA;  need fuel-injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely a carburetor can be reengineered to suit the change in pressure profile across the intake? Plus, even motorcycles with fuel injection have their intakes point backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T02:15:54.177" Title="Why do most mass-production motorcycles have their intakes facing backwards?" Tags="|motorcycle|air-intake|ram-air-effect|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19572" CreationDate="2015-08-25T05:14:16.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the key doesn't have a battery you can remove, it might be powered by RFID.  Try wrapping it in aluminium foil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T05:14:16.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5218" CreationDate="2015-08-25T05:30:58.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fix the coolant leak and see if that solves the other problems.  If the coolant level is low, it won't circulate through the heater coil and the radiator fans won't go on.  If it boils, the steam will roll through the system, heating the heater coil and activating the fans (cooling it back down) and .  That's my theory at least.  It can't be good for anything, so I would fix that leak ASAP.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T05:30:58.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19577" CreationDate="2015-08-25T06:37:25.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all by &quot;most production motorcycles&quot; I am assuming commuter level motorcycles used in South and South East Asia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;its not true that all production motorcycles have intakes facing  backwards, its more or less a ergonomics based design decision , some motorcycles have intakes facing 90 degrees to the side. Some have them facing towards the back as you say.. For example the intake duct location on the TVS Apache Series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hL4bM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hL4bM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common point in all of these mass production motorcycles is that they use carburettors  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your point on Ram air effect on carburettor is correct it will cancel out the venturi effect but reingnieering the carb to make use of the Ram air effect only works if there is a specific way air can be channeled to the intake via a duct or port which is not the case In case of a commuter bike..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;secondly Ram air effect will work only when you achieve a specific speed , most production motorcycles are not designed to go at high speeds to use the advantages provided the Ram air effect . &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: There is literally no point in making a intake face in the forward direction when the engine is at the back of the intake , you will need additional space to bend the intake tube which will create ergonomic issues and frankly there is no need to do the exercise , iterating my previous point,(please dont mind the bad drawing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ac2Vh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ac2Vh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You neeed a specilized channel or duct to force air to the intake which is not there in these commuter segment bikes which are mostly naked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These bikes do not have the necessary top speed to achieve the advantage of the RAM air intake effect. Most of these bikes have a top speed of 60MPH.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agreeing to the points mentioned by ALLman, having the intake facing in the backwards direction also prevents weather and road debris from entering the engine through the intake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T12:14:18.783" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T12:14:18.783" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19577" CreationDate="2015-08-25T09:17:44.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a forward facing intake would be good for the engine but the disturbance it would create in the air infront of the bike would be quite bad for handling, straight line stability and completely negate the effect of the fairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a basic commuter bike, the problems with a forward facing inlet would be compounded by bikes that are ridden in all weathers.  In heavy rain they would be susceptible to ingesting moisture and in low temperatures they could suffer from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor_icing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;icing&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T12:19:08.667" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T12:19:08.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19571" CreationDate="2015-08-25T11:17:12.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that unless you were to get out and measure the height of the water, you won't know how deep it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, as you drive into the water you will create a bow wave so the actual water level may change and still cause water to be sucked into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also risk wetting the coil pack which would stop your engine running and potentially leave you stranded mid-water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best advice has to be, if you don't have to drive into water; don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T11:17:12.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16006" CreationDate="2015-08-25T13:28:11.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally got confirmation that the noise is coming from the gearbox so it's either output shaft or (more likely) differential bearings as this is a common complaint for this 6 speed gearbox. Will have to get it repaired at a transmission specialist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9828" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:28:11.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17631" CreationDate="2015-08-25T14:30:31.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a sensor or wiring fault.  The sensor in question is located on the plastic &quot;ball&quot; thing where you fill the coolant up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it doesn't have too much coolant in the ball thing too as it's really easy to air-lock them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our '97 1.6 Golf does the exact same thing if the coolant level is even slightly low.  The other thing to check is that your heater matrix isn't leaking internally as this could cause air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T14:30:31.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19574" CreationDate="2015-08-25T15:06:49.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually you could very well be correct. The passage you are pointing out with the missing is an air passage which acts as a &lt;em&gt;pressure reference&lt;/em&gt;. The diaphragm (last picture) is actually the accelerator pump. As the butterfly opens, more air is sucked in, causing a high pressure point at the top of the venturi (picture marked as: &lt;strong&gt;The other end of the path from the inside&lt;/strong&gt; ). This forces the air through the hole and tube and behind the diaphragm which pumps fuel into the incoming air. This gives a larger boost of fuel, which allows richens the air up a bit until the carb venturi fuel inlet can catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the o-ring gone, there is no air reference (or very little) going on. The diaphragm cannot pump the extra fuel which the engine needs. When this o-ring is back in place, I would surmise you'll see a great increase in how the bike accelerates, as long as the rest of the carb is put back together correctly. The o-ring looks like you could replace it from pretty much any o-ring kit (it doesn't look like it's anything special).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T15:06:49.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T14:52:13.137" Score="3" ViewCount="5546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuse keeps blowing when I press the brake pedal on a 98 Windstar. Brake switch is good. Inserted new fuse and the brake lamps do not light up before the fuse blows. Removed all bulbs front and back and the fuse still blows. What to test next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MIKE" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T17:27:11.590" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T07:53:12.140" Title="Diagnosing Vehicle Brake Lamp Fuse Blowing; What to test next?" Tags="|electrical|ford|fuse|windstar|brake-light|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T16:53:54.153" Score="6" ViewCount="23501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a replacement exhaust system that I just bought. Just has a tailpipe, muffler, and a flange that connects to the header. What would be the best way to join these pipes, aside from welding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these pipes has like a 2&quot; OD. Can I use a tailpipe expander and just make a lapjoint and use normal exhaust clamps? Or would it be better to just use a band clamp and butt them together? Do I need to use a sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11912" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:26:07.867" Title="Clamping two 2&quot; exhaust pipes together" Tags="|exhaust|muffler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19559" CreationDate="2015-08-25T17:22:17.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Ford, Motorcaft replacement parts are recommended. Don't get them from the dealer, most aftermarket stores sell them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in price dictates how long they will last. Your original parts lasted 120k the $35 will last 20k, just long enough to get out of the 1 year warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:22:17.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19588" CreationDate="2015-08-25T17:26:07.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to weld, you can use a joint like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5eTo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5eTo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The above image is for demonstration purposes only. I couldn't readily find one which was 2&quot; on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference is, the inside diameter on both ends would be 2&quot;. Your outside diameter 2&quot; pipes would fit inside. Use two muffler clamps to attach. You'll need to match the outside diameter of the butt joint, but they would probably be 2 1/8&quot; clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:26:07.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T18:31:21.527" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 01  mustang gt . Two days ago I checked the oil level in the dipstick when my car was warm and it was way above the maximum level . I parked it and checked it again today the oil level was below the minimum with no mejor clicking noise in the engine . What is going one with my car ? Do I have a bad oil pump ? Or is it because of the oil sending unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11913" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T19:28:52.870" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T10:19:02.640" Title="Oil level increase and in few days drops to nothing" Tags="|ford|oil|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:13:39.473" Score="4" ViewCount="1422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapping out a 200 cid L6 for a 302 V8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts are required to make the swap. I would like answers with reliable sources. I am finding mixed information on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine mounting brackets are different, what years are compatible. I don't want your typical kit from NPD, I want to know what original brackets will interchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard some opinions that the springs need to be changed because the V-8 weighs more, while others say the L6 weight more than the V-8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also be doing a disc brake conversion on this same vehicle and would like to know what parts interchange from other vehicles. I don't want to buy and expensive kit, I'd rather get what I need from the junk yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T19:28:41.943" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T16:26:15.860" Title="Six to Eight Engine Swap 1968 Mustang, what parts are required" Tags="|ford|mustang|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:06:06.217" Score="4" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at several silver wing bikes. Ones is a 2007 and $ 3995 from a dealer but I have to get it shipped to me. There are other scooters I'm looking at also. One is named Ice Bear and is a little more. The 150cc has a Honda engine. There is also an Ice Bear that is 600cc. Does this have a Honda engine as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11917" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T00:19:11.787" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T00:19:11.787" Title="Is the Ice Bear scooter 600cc engine made by Honda?" Tags="|honda|scooter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15630" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:13:55.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can verify that by looking at the tread and the sidewall. If there is imminent separation, there will be undulation in one or the other. If they're round and straight/linear/curved/however you want to phrase it... no dips or bumps, you're looking at something else. Tire/wheel balance, ball joints, tie rods, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10581" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:13:55.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15558" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:36:06.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i remember your setup correctly you have a 4.3L Vortec engine. The fuel pressure regulator and plastic fuel lines commonly had issues in that engine. The regulator and lines are located inside the intake manifold and when it goes bad it floods the engine terribly. That engine has a fuel pressure port on the metal fuel line coming into the engine. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to it and see how much pressure you can build up and how long it take to bleed off. Also remove the intake tube, hold the throttle plates open and look inside with a flash light. If you see puddles of fuel then that is your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:36:06.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19555" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:48:38.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If everything is ok with the car then after driving the car a full 3 warm up cycles the light should go out. If it does not then reading and clearing the code is the only option. If something is actually wrong with it, fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:48:38.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19572" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:59:54.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smart key system you are referring to is specifically designed to work at very short distances requiring the key to be inside the car before it would start. When i worked at Mazda on cars with smart keys, the car had 4 antennas just to make the system work seamlessly with the short range in mind. There was an antenna in each front door and the trunk to allow the door and trunk to be unlocked and there was an antenna in the dashboard that authenticated the remote to start the car. Further if the key was being detected by the trunk antenna car starting would be disabled even if using a second valid key for the car. I have major doubts that if the key was located behind the car someone could get in and start it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:59:54.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19591" CreationDate="2015-08-25T23:03:44.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many dip sticks will have lines on one side for cold and the other for hot, and occasionally both will be on the same side. If the different marks are not available, refer to owners' manual for the temperature being indicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, check your oil with the engine off. When the engine is running, oil fills galleys, pumps, etc. and is moving around in the sump. This can lead to all sorts of anomalous readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differing temperatures will have a bearing on your readings, but more than anything it's that you're checking with the engine in various states of non/operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have too little oil in the engine, this can obviously lead to oil starvation, etc. If you have too much, you can create an entirely different set of issues: shearing, windage, high oil pressure (which can burst lines and fittings), etc. Refer to your manual for proper lubrication in terms of the type/weight of oil, intervals, procedures, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10581" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T23:03:44.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17539" CreationDate="2015-08-25T23:07:29.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a severe vacuum leak in the area of bank 1. This may possibly be an intake manifold gasket leak or other bad vacuum lines. This accounts for the misfire and if the engine vacuum is low enough there would not be enough to run the brake power booster. The easy way to check is let the engine idle and using a small propane bottle (like for doing plumbing) induce propane around the intake. If the engine speed increases then it's sucking in the propane somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T23:07:29.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T00:18:09.370" Score="2" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen 5.1&quot; and 5.9&quot; listed as the ground clearance on the S550 (2015+). I don't know which is true, but I would like to lower the one I have ordered by 1&quot; to improve handing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this safe to do in the northeast US or will common road imperfections and ramps damage the underside of the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a specific set of springs is needed in order to answer this question, consider the Ford Racing Handing Pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what is the actual ground clearance of the S550 and the S197 (previous generation)? What about approach, departure, and crossover angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11918" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T10:36:58.343" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T16:40:39.240" Title="Is it safe to lower the S550 (2015+) Mustang by 1&quot; in the northeast US?" Tags="|ford|suspension|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19591" CreationDate="2015-08-26T08:51:06.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points worth mentioning when checking oil level:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Never rely on the first reading, especially when the engine has just been run&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always take out the dipstick and wipe it clean with a rag before reinserting the dipstick to check the level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Never take readings with the engine running&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dipstick level markings are supposed to be used with the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some engines need to be warmed up, others left cold&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual will usually clarify under which conditions the reading should be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T10:19:02.640" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T10:19:02.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19604" CreationDate="2015-08-26T09:32:54.043" Score="12" ViewCount="117046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes stall my car, as I have a new one and the biting point is so high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, someone told me stalling damages my car, but all it does is force the engine to a complete stop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does constant stalling damage my petrol car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2024-01-15T19:11:05.877" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T19:11:05.877" Title="Does stalling damage my car?" Tags="|engine|stall|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19603" CreationDate="2015-08-26T09:54:04.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&#xA;Stalling the car will not damage your car , your car is designed to absorb the impact at least a hundred times.(Most of my family members learnt driving in my car and it has stalled half of its life and its working perfectly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stalling the car extremely frequently especially with load(passengers) can put additional stress on the transmission components but again its highly unlikely you will kill the car with stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also stalling and starting the car frequently puts stress on your starter motor and the battery but those are the only things which can fail sooner than the car because of stalling but again , highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A point to note is that stalling can be extremely dangerous to you and your car when you are in the middle of the road, in traffic, you have the danger of another vehicle rear ending you and its very likely that it will happen since the other driver cannot counter the sudden decrease in your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T10:05:18.100" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T10:05:18.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19626" CreationDate="2015-08-26T12:39:56.017" Score="18" ViewCount="11745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read gasoline engines use sparks to ignite the mixture, but diesel engines use just compression which can't be done in gasoline engines due to high compression ratios which can cause engine knocking, but if that was true gasoline? It can then be put in diesel engines and will ignite properly because diesel engines have high compression ratios, so why can't this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also diesel can be put in gasoline engines since they have a lower autoignition point? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="11366" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T20:33:08.110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T20:33:08.110" Title="Why not use gasoline on diesel engines or vice versa?" Tags="|diesel|gasoline|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19605" CreationDate="2015-08-26T12:49:32.020" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say there are two major reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the seals and o-rings used in diesel engines can't tolerate the chemical composition of gasoline. They are designed to tolerate the chemical composition of diesel only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the kind of pressure needed to inject diesel can't be tolerated by gasoline. The Chevy Duramax diesel engine has 23,000 PSI in the fuel injection rail. This is compared to the Mazda DISI engine with direct fuel injection having rail pressure of 1,600 PSI. I dare to say that if there was even the slightest amount of air in a fuel line, gasoline would explode at those kind of pressures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines have very high compression. Because fuel is injected when the compression is very high, very high fuel pressure is required (it also helps atomization). A modern diesel engine like the Chevy Duramax has a fuel pressure of 23,000 PSI in the fuel rail. The closes comparison is a direct injected gasoline engine. Direct injection refers to the fuel being sprayed directly into the cylinder similar to the diesel instead of the fuel being sprayed in on top of the intake valve like most regular gasoline engines. A modern direct injected gasoline engine like the Mazda DISI (direct injected spark ignition) has a fuel rail pressure of only 1,600 PSI, more then ten times less the the comparable diesel engine. Gasoline is not meant to tolerate the pressure that a diesel engine can produce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T13:43:21.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T13:43:21.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19605" CreationDate="2015-08-26T13:50:41.523" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &quot;can&quot; use diesel in a gasoline engine. In the sense that it will run, but it will run poorly and smoke A LOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem with gasoline in a diesel engine is that diesel engines rely on diesel to lubricate various components (diesel is an oil). If you put petrol through these components, it washes away all the lubrication and will cause them to overheat, seize up and fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you can also run a diesel engine on cooking oil or parafin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T07:16:00.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T07:16:00.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19610" CreationDate="2015-08-26T15:22:08.920" Score="12" ViewCount="10781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard many vehicle manufacturers have been using this to improve power and torque figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do this by altering the length of the manifold, I am hoping for better diagrammatic explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T02:21:03.353" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T21:44:23.447" Title="How do variable-length intake manifolds work?" Tags="|air-intake|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19608" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:15:13.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variable-length intakes&lt;/strong&gt; increase the pressure of the air entering the intake manifold thanks to a physical phenomenon called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Helmholtz resonance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also known as &lt;em&gt;dynamic supercharging&lt;/em&gt; since it avoids the use of a mechanical device (compressor/blower) to boost intake air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How the &lt;em&gt;Helmholtz&lt;/em&gt; does it increase air pressure?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without getting too technical, any air intake geometry has a certain Helmholtz frequency associated with it, just like how blowing over the neck of an open bottle produces a certain note or pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this frequency, the air molecules vibrate more, resulting in higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why does varying the effective intake geometry help?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine RPM will govern how often the intake valves open and shut. These valves generate pulses that translate to a frequency signature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind varying the effective geometry is to get the Helmholtz frequency of the air intake to sync up with the frequency demanded by the engine over &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a range of RPMs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes intake air to enter the cylinders at a higher pressure. Needless to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;▲ Air Pressure → ▲ Bang → ▲ Torque → ▲ Power&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how do manufacturers vary intake geometry?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways, each with their own advantages and disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lengthening/shortening the intake runners&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The '91 Le Mans-winning &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Go3Fgd1wgic?t=4m45s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mazda 787B&lt;/a&gt; is an early example of this; the linked YouTube video shows the intake runners sliding up and down like a trombone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;▲ RPM → ▼ Length required&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regulating between two intake runners of different lengths&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19610/675&quot;&gt;DustinDavis' answer&lt;/a&gt; describes. Imagine air flowing through two intake runners, one long and one short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the runner, a butterfly valve determines how much air is drawn in from each runner in turn. Changing the position of the valve changes the &lt;em&gt;effective&lt;/em&gt; intake length&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2WkC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2WkC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Oscillatory intake systems&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These setups use the opening and closing of intake valves to control the effective geometry of the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why isn't this setup more common?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the costs outweigh the benefits. As much as we may wish it, power isn't everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, this setup offers only modest power/torque gains. Typical gains will be in the 3-5 % ballpark with this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T09:14:51.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19608" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:20:31.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The length of the intake runners have certain affects on the engine operation. For example, longer intake runners are used to improve the bottom end torque (torque at low RPMs) while shorter intake runners will improve top end power (horsepower at high RPMs). The lengths will vary from engine to engine as well as what the goals of each vehicle the engine will be powering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have to take into account the diameter of each runner. Everything correlates to mass and velocity of airflow. Through the RPM range the velocity of airflow in the runners increases, but at some point, it maxes out and cannot go any faster which will be limiting. As the velocity of the airflow increases, so does it's inertia. At the bottom of the intake stroke, the inertia of the airflow will help push a little more air into the cylinder which will help power. But, if the runner isn't optimal, that can't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a long, smaller diameter runner will help low end torque because it will hit the velocity limit earlier, but it will hurt top end horsepower because it's too restrictive. A short, large diameter runner will help top end power because it will reach maximum velocity later, but it will not help low end torque because it cannot get enough velocity to build inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know what the differences between the runner lengths are, you can imagine why having a variable length runner manifold would be a good idea. You get the best of both worlds. With a normal manifold, you have to pick the exact manifold for whatever your goals are. If you plan to do a lot of drag racing, then probably a manifold with runners to support top-end power would be best where as if you're doing autocross where you're down in the low-end RPM range most of the time, you might choose a manifold to best improve low end torque. It all varies and there is no right or wrong answer for all applications. But there is going to be a compromise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the regular daily driver though, you don't want to compromise because you need the low end torque for driving around stop light to stop light, but also you need that power on top for merging on the freeway or passing someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variable length runner manifolds use a valve to switch back and forth between two runners depending on what the situation calls for. When the engine load is high (low RPM), the manifold will switch to use a longer, smaller runner to get the low end torque. When the engine load is low (high RPM), the manifold will switch to use a shorter, bigger runner to help with power on top. The best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: This is a simplified explanation of intake manifolds and runners. There is a whole world of science out there between surge tanks, more airflow dynamics like turbulence, swirl, etc and of course when it comes to forced induction engines (turbo, super chargers), these rules change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here is an image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ze81l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ze81l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Variable length intake butterflys&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see as described in one of the comments, there is a shaft that controls a set of butterflys. The shaft will rotate which will re-position the butterflys effectively changing the runner properties. The shaft is vacuum modulated in this picture as you can see (start the the linkage and work to the left). There is a bell-shaped modulator with a vacuum line attached to it. Modern ones may use more electronic methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T18:34:49.777" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T18:34:49.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19613" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:20:41.627" Score="5" ViewCount="8500" Body="&lt;p&gt;When talking about a 2014 Jeep Cherokee, what is the difference between CAN-C and CAN-IHS buses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11642" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T16:52:51.617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T16:52:51.617" Title="What is the difference between CAN-C and CAN-IHS buses?" Tags="|jeep|can-bus|cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19601" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:33:04.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1&quot; is a decent drop and it will depend on what else you are changing. If you're just using springs to lower the vehicle, then you'll probably have issues with bumps and your struts going out faster or even banging loudly as they bottom out. If you're going to do that, then you should consider going with struts designed for lowered vehicles or find a set of coilovers that will give you the drop you are looking for. The Mustang aftermarket is massive and there is no shortage of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue you may run into is rubbing. 1&quot; may be fine, or it may rub on the fenders. Some people add negative camber to help the rubbing. Keep in mind that while 1&quot; may sit right and look good, it might be that way when you drive over bumps, dips and pot holes.  Also keep in mind the differences between the front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roush has a set of coilovers with a 1.5&quot; front drop and 1.0&quot; rear drop, so a 1&quot; should be fine as long as you do more than just springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock ground clearance for a 2015 is 5.9&quot; and 6&quot; for 2013/2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T16:40:39.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T16:40:39.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19611" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:48:30.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAN-C is the high speed bus that connects the engine, brakes, airbags etc. CAN-IHS is a low speed bus that connects the comfort systems like radio and climate controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T16:48:30.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19615" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:09:47.840" Score="6" ViewCount="11815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Peugeot 207, 1.6 Turbo and lately the depollution system is faulty - the check engine sign lit. The car still has the power of a 1.6 engine but the turbo is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One mechanic told me to remove the CAT and the problem will be fixed, but when I asked another mechanic he told me that if I remove the CAT the engine will be at risk of breaking and in few weeks i would need a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should i do? Has anyone removed the cat and encountered a engine problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11929" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T18:01:16.217" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T15:13:37.650" Title="Peugeot 207 depollution fault" Tags="|peugeot|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19614" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:39:04.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While deleting the catalytic converter (&quot;cat&quot;) will not &quot;break the engine&quot;, it is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unlikely that removing the system will cure the check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the code will give a clue as to what the correct course of action should be. Possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a clogged catalytic converter that should be replaced (not removed altogether!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replacing an ageing O2 sensor &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reconnecting a disconnected O2 sensor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate, the description of the specific error code(s) should help narrow down the list of possible culprits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T20:40:53.277" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:40:53.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19605" CreationDate="2015-08-26T18:56:34.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other posters have answered your question well, but I'd like to add that diesel engines can burn spark-ignition fuels under certain circumstances.  Large industrial diesel engines can run on natural gas with some minor modifications.  However, they still need a small amount (about 1%) of diesel blended in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diesel ignites under compression and essentially provides the &quot;spark&quot; for what is normally a spark-ignition fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline could be used in a similar setup, but fraction of diesel required will be in flux.  Something like 50% at low load, and 25% at high load.  Not to mention that extensive monitoring will be needed to control injection to avoid knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11933" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T18:56:34.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19575" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:26:24.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have electric controls, then it's possible that the little metal clips inside the switches have broken off or bent enough to no longer make contact. I have to rebuild the passenger switch in my 01 Dodge Ram 1500 every now and then for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the controls work on any of the windows, then it could be a severed or disconnected wire or a short in the wiring (Even though fuses are ok). Fuses may have been replaced with higher amp fuses to prevent blowing which means your switches or wiring have probably been burned up by a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of possibilities so I recommend pulling out a switch panel and examining the internals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T20:36:01.487" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:36:01.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19605" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:53:17.740" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can see the ill-effects of misfueling in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/b5xhPAundL4&quot;&gt;episode by Fifth Gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They put petrol (gasoline) in a diesel car and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A summary of the differences between the two fuels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diesel does not burn as easily as petrol. It relies on auto-ignition under compression rather than spark-ignition to combust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diesel has a higher AFR value than petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diesel is injected at significantly higher pressures than petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines have a higher compression ratio than petrol engines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diesel has better lubricating properties than petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These differences are the key reasons behind why the petrol engine in the video misfired so badly when it ran on diesel; the fuel just won't readily combust in a petrol engine. With enough time, the catalytic converter(s) will get clogged with unburnt diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the diesel engine, petrol will run because it auto-ignites under the extreme pressures of the diesel combustion chamber. The damage here has less to do with how the car runs and more to do with long-term damage to the components along the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T02:00:54.473" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T02:00:54.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19565" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:55:20.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me that sounds like your torque converter unlocking but your transmission not downshifting. Automatic transmissions have a torque converter in place of a clutch. The way that the torque converter works is by using turbines and stators which get spun using the transmission fluid. This process creates an enormous amount of heat and has the effect of making the engine rev at higher rpm's (not necessarily a bad thing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve MPG's and also to reduce heat, the torque converter will lock up (i.e. make a physical mechanical coupling instead of a fluid coupling) which has the effect of reducing engine rpm's and reducing heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission knows when it needs to upshift or downshift and before either happens, the torque converter will unlock (which will cause higher engine RPM's) and then lock back up again once the shift happens. There are times when it will stay unlocked for longer periods of time depending on the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is an issue with your car making a downshift, that would explain the higher RPM's and lack of power. Pushing the gas pedal enough will unlock the converter and letting off will lock it back up again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I recommend is that you do a full transmission fluid flush and examine the fluid for clutch material (blackish sand type of consistency). Also be sure to replace your transmission filter. If you cannot do this yourself, go to a shop! I would also have them check your vacuum modulators (or which ever device is used to control the shifts). Sometimes these get too hot and melt or the lines get holes in them which prevents accurate shifting. If it uses a TV cable, then readjust the cable on the linkage or replace it as it may have stretched and cannot depress the TV plunger all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like you have a slippage, but then again you might not have added all the details. If your transmission is slipping you would feel the engine rev but not go anywhere or the car would start to buck as the clutches slip and catch, slip and catch. You would notice this when starting off from a stop light though or any time you mash the gas pedal (high engine RPM's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to change your transmission fluid (15k-20k) and check the levels regularly (every oil change, do this while the car is warmed up and running). It's also important that you use the CORRECT fluid type as they are not all made the same. Various types and levels of friction modifiers are used/required by different transmissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: A quick way to see what might be going on is to smell your fluid. Fluid should be red or pinkish and have a sweet smell to it. If it's brown and/or has a nasty smell than you have internal issues that need to be addressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:55:20.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:48:39.510" Score="1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;0 Tdi Passat and it has suddenly started humming and sounds like it's behind me in the back some where?? The noise happens sometimes and other times it's not there. It doesn't change whether I'm stationary or moving and doesn't change with revving the engine. There's no difference in drive and performance but it's annoying when it happens! Any ideas??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11934" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:09:08.753" Title="56 Passat 2.0 Tdi dull humming noise somewhere behind driver seat?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19622" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:49:58.610" Score="6" ViewCount="53964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read differing opinions on what should be used to lubricate cylinder head parts, such as valves, lifters, camshafts and bearings when reassembling cylinder heads.  Some prefer engine oil while some prefer assembly lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it vehicle dependent and what are the pros and cons of the two approaches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T13:36:08.353" Title="Assembly lube or engine oil when reassembling cylinder heads" Tags="|lubrication|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19621" CreationDate="2015-08-26T22:29:57.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use assembly lube with the valves (in the valve guides), but just oil there. The reason for this is because there is no way to flush the assembly lube out of this orifice like there is in other places throughout the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to use assembly lube for the rest of the parts. Assembly lube will keep the parts from chafing (wearing against each other) during initial start-up until the oil can do it's thing. As the oil replaces the assembly lube (washes the lube away), all of these parts will be protected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach is not vehicle dependent. The whole idea (as I stated) is to protect the surfaces from chafing on each other. If you are going to run your engine right away after assembly, you can use oil. Oil can give the engine parts enough lubrication to prevent chafing. Oil, however will drain away over time, leaving parts exposed. Assembly lube will stay in place until you start the engine. Personally, I prefer the extra bit of insurance which assembly lube gives you. Think of what could happen if you get side tracked for a couple of days after doing the assembly with oil. You just don't know what might happen, so assembly lube is great choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whichever route you go, if two pieces of metal are rubbing on each other, you'll want to use your lube there. Such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any bearing surface (cam bearings in your case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker arm to valve tip (if so equipped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker arm ball or trunion (if so equipped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifters (all sides)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push rods (tips)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam lobes (cam lube) and bearing journals (assembly lube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything else which looks like it needs it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't need to put assembly lube on timing belts or chains. You can put oil on a chain if you so desire, but considering how they're made, they should not incur any appreciable wear while the engine is starting up. Belts are usually run dry, so no need there. Besides, they are plenty flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you will want to use a cam specific lube on the camshaft where the lobes &lt;strike&gt;intercept&lt;/strike&gt; ride on the lifters (or whatever they are called ... the caps on top of the valves which the lobes ride on). If you don't put the cam specific lube on there, you'll run the risk of these self destructing. Here is the difference between cam lube and assembly lube on a camshaft (assembly lube on the right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7iNOH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7iNOH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure it's more like grease than oil in consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to know is, after you run your engine for while, you'll want to change out the oil. Assembly lube (especially cam lube) has a tendency to plug up your filter. Also, as bearings and such break in, you'll have fine metal parts in your oil which you'll want to get rid of. After you have about an hours run time on it, change it out. Then change the oil again at about 500 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T12:05:31.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:05:31.680" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19620" CreationDate="2015-08-26T22:33:03.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sound you are hearing is most likely the fuel pump. You can test this in the morning. Before you start the engine, turn the key on and see if you hear the noise. It should probably be about 4-5 seconds in length, then it will quit. This is the fuel pump ensuring the system has enough pressure to run correctly when the engine starts. Fuel will drain back out of the system overnight (in most cases). If this is what is happening, it is usually completely normal. And it affects gas (petrol) or diesel engines alike in modern fuel injected cars (both have electric fuel pumps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T22:33:03.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T23:31:17.570" Score="2" ViewCount="6987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a voltage regulator keep/ensure that the voltage at the battery is always approx. 14.5 or does it make the voltage from the alt. bypass the battery when it is fully charged so it does not overcharge it?  I have a 68 cutlass and I connected the bat term on the alt. to the battery and am not sure if this is bypassing the regulator and as a result, overcharging the battery.  When the car is running, the volt meter shows approx. 14.5 at the battery.  Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11936" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T00:59:35.170" Title="voltage regulator overcharging?" Tags="|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19624" CreationDate="2015-08-27T00:06:06.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car has no idea if the battery is charged or not. Normal charging voltage for a car is about 13.9v to 14.4v, that's with the car running. Your voltage is not out of the ordinary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard car charging theory goes like this. A car battery that is fully charged should be 12.6v nominal. In reality this can vary from 12.6v to about 13.2v. To charge a battery the charging voltage needs to be a minimum of 1v above the battery. A voltage regulators job is to keep the running voltage of the car about the same, 13.9v to 14.4v, regardless of electrical load or engine rpm. When the load is high the regulator puts more current out to keep the voltage the same. When the load is light the voltage regulator puts less current out to keep the voltage the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tie everything together, when a battery is low on charge it looks like a big load to the regulator and the regulator will put out lots of current to satisfy the battery. As the battery reaches full charge the load of the battery decreases, but never to zero. A lead acid battery is difficult to overcharge because of it's internal resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the regulator actually does not put out current like i've been saying. The regulator senses the voltage of the car's electrical system and controls the current that is in the rotor of the alternator. This in turn produces 3 phase AC current in the alternator (hence the name) which is rectified and sent out the big wire on the back of the alternator charging your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T00:06:06.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19605" CreationDate="2015-08-27T04:12:10.130" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can run gasoline in a diesel motor, but it causes problems. As mentioned elsewhere, when you compress the fuel/air mixture enough, it gets really hot then ignites. With diesel, this is ok, because the fuel burns (relatively) slowly, so it doesn't need to be timed very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline, on the other hand, burns really fast. If you consistently ignite the fuel a little too early, you'll blow holes in your pistons, break piston rings, break connecting rods, shatter crankshafts, blow head gaskets, etc. If you ignite it just a little too late, it won't ignite at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing is based on the heat inside the combustion chamber, which changes constantly. So it's much harder to get the perfect timing. Even if it doesn't damage anything (diesel engines are much sturdier than a similar gasoline engine), the early ignition means your flame front is working against the piston for the last few degrees and wastes a significant amount of energy. You could probably put knock sensors in the head and add extra fuel to keep the temperature down, but that would be much harder on the conventional carbureted engines that got the current design started.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you can run diesel in a gasoline motor, but it's not very efficient (if you can keep it running at all). The high compression of a diesel motor helps the diesel fuel burn better (diesel is hard to burn), and the high compression of the injection pumps helps vaporize the fuel (if you pour it down the intake it tends to stay in liquid form which doesn't burn well). Without those things, you're only going to extract a fraction of the available power from the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.* Note that this is a large part of the answer: Just because we can do something now with modern technology doesn't mean they could a hundred years ago. Now that we have a hundred odd years doing it one way, there's no reason to make radical changes now without a significant advantage to using the new method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T04:12:10.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19587" CreationDate="2015-08-27T04:16:26.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shorts in this system are almost always in the rear of the vehicle. Remove all the brake bulbs, including the center light and inspect the sockets. Carefully inspect anywhere the wires move, like at the trunk lid hinge. Next look for any added trailer wiring connectors, if any disconnect them. After each part is disconnected retest. A short finder tool saves having to blow a bunch of fuses with testing.&#xA;Year make and model might help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T04:16:26.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19638" CreationDate="2015-08-27T05:25:05.007" Score="2" ViewCount="6723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Mazda Tribute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to have the AC Condenser replaced. However, there are certain steps in the process that I can't do myself. These are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discharge the AC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty the Refrigerant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recharge the AC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refill the Refrigerant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evacuate the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leak test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can I take it to the shop, have them do the before work, drive back home and do my DIY, drive back to the shop and have them do the after work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't turn on the AC during the drive I shouldn't have any problems, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10171" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T11:27:15.033" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T13:01:27.560" Title="Transmission Fluid Leaking from AC Condenser. Can I replace it myself and drive it to shop to do the before &amp; after work?" Tags="|transmission|ac|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19628" CreationDate="2015-08-27T05:59:21.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a decent plan of attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post-work actions should really be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leak test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evacuate the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recharge with refrigerant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T13:51:15.083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:51:15.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T06:12:43.657" Score="1" ViewCount="2493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Sx Carina, Model 1995, engine: 5E-EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought this used car. But when I am driving I am facing some problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive in D mode the RPM (race) is not constant. It is just frequently changing (from 1000-800). And when it comes to 800 the entire dash board, steering and the seats start jerking. What can I do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. : I have tuned the car and checked the spark plug and filter. And those are all perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11942" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T06:32:58.893" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T08:15:29.123" Title="RPM problem (car is jerking)" Tags="|toyota|car|carina|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19556" CreationDate="2015-08-27T09:25:23.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I would consider to be a bible for maintenance and repairs would be a Haynes or clymer manual. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0892875461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-XT600-83-89-Clymer-Manuals/dp/0892875461&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference between maintenance and repairs. Proactive vs reactive. Learning how to do basic maintenance will teach you a lot about the bike and what tools are important to carry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also gives you a good opportunity to find things that need fixing before you start your trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairs once you are on the road (or off) is a different matter. Parts can fail or be damaged in an accident or fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything can fail and leave you stranded in remote locations. So you should seriously consider what your plan B is. Cellphone? Spot tracker? Epirb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a limit to what you can carry in the way of spare parts. in many cases some improvisation  can get a damaged bike rideable to get you to civilization again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common problem on a trail bike off road will be punctures. If you are planning and off road adventure i highly recommend you learn how to fix a puncture and replace an inner tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if I've gone off on a tangent. Advrider.com is a great website with some great resources that will give you an idea of how to prepare yourself, bike, tools and contingencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your trip. I hope it's a good one :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T09:25:23.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19630" CreationDate="2015-08-27T10:44:34.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming this problem is with the vehicle stationary and at idle (question states 800-1000 RPM), this usually happens due to one of the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A leak in the air intake tract/manifold that allows unmetered air in&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could detect the presence of leaks through a smoke test. Compressed air and soapy water works as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A faulty idle air control system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a bit more tricky to diagnose. Consider this option after eliminating the possibility of leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T10:44:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12938" CreationDate="2015-08-27T11:28:53.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old news paper used dry works surprisingly well.  As does ultrafine grade wire wool (0000 grade) - don't use any other grade as it can damage the glass.  White vinegar used on paper towels also is excellent at clearing glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T11:28:53.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19636" CreationDate="2015-08-27T14:28:14.670" Score="5" ViewCount="2311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does the air filter on a lawn mower need to be oiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true that major engine damage will occur if the intake air filter is not oiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T14:40:12.197" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T14:41:57.740" Title="Oiling lawn mower air filters" Tags="|air-intake|lubrication|small-engine|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19635" CreationDate="2015-08-27T14:36:21.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically a foam filter for a lawn mower needs oiled, but just lightly. A foam filter lacks the ability to stop small particles as compared to a paper filter. The oil is added to make the filter &quot;sticky&quot; to these small particles giving the foam filter better filtering capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as major engine damage, probably not. Worst case scenario the engine wears out faster then normal due to friction caused by the particle size that is allowed through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T14:41:57.740" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T14:41:57.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19525" CreationDate="2015-08-27T14:39:08.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a visit to the mechanic this turned out to be due to a cracked radiator. That caused coolant leak which led to heater not working. Will replace radiator. Check engine light that came on seems unrelated to this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T14:39:08.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19628" CreationDate="2015-08-27T14:54:43.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C system has a pressure sensor built in, so the A/C compressor wont run without refrigerant in the system.  Therefore there is no problem driving the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T14:54:43.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T15:44:52.110" Score="1" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu and I am having a problem with the re-circulation switch for the AC. I am trying to figure out how to close flap so there is no outside air coming in can anybody help me with that problem. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11947" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T16:05:37.187" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:05:37.187" Title="How to close the re-circulation flap?" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|malibu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:51:36.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T16:44:26.110" Score="6" ViewCount="3217" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, our car seems to have spilled some oil on our driveway. I regret that I didn't ask sooner but I hope it's not too late:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; What can I do to remove these stains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the car, I'm confused how this happened only once but it doesn't seem to be losing any more oil. There are no other stains than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7LIk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7LIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T13:14:49.240" Title="Removing oil stains from the driveway?" Tags="|cleaning|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19642" CreationDate="2015-08-27T17:35:46.263" Score="2" ViewCount="7354" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mazda 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2008&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;125 K miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this is the first major ( &gt; $300) thing to need fixing on this car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem originally was that when you turn the AC on you get some cool air for about 20 minutes. Then it slowly gets warmer until the air coming out is the same temperature as the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the mechanic did to fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car in to have the AC fixed recently. The ASE certified mechanic (small shop) did a test and found that the system wasn't leaking. Then he found that the condensor was damaged and so he replaced that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then he said the computer wasn't turning on the sytem so he replaced a wiring harness that was part of a recall (as in this wiring harness had a recall but I had never taken the car in to have the recall fixed). THEN he said the computer had to be reset at the dealer (he didn't have the right equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic is now saying to me &quot;the dealer says the expansion valve is clogged and needs to be replaced and their quote is $1200... but I'm not sure if replacing the expansion valve will fix the AC&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(After replacing the condensor and wiring harness, turning on the AC button does not have any affect on the temperature of the air coming out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to replace a part that may or may not fix the problem.&lt;/strong&gt; If it were a small amount ... I might go for it. But for a job that will cause $600-1200... I would like to know with greater certainty if replacing the expansion part will fix the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there some test I can have a mechanic do to verify that the AC expansion valve is broken and needs to be replaced? Or do I have to just spend the money and hope the AC works again?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If there is a test to check the AC expansion valve, how do I ask to have such a test done?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastEditorUserId="11948" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T11:56:03.510" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T18:13:01.237" Title="Should I replace the AC's expansion valve?" Tags="|ac|mazda|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19641" CreationDate="2015-08-27T18:33:26.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An air conditioning system is separated into two sides, high pressure side and low pressure side. There are service fittings on each side. If you think of the AC system as a hula hoop, the system is separated on one side by the compressor and on the other by the expansion valve. The high side has the condenser and the low side has the evaporator (the cold thing inside the dash). To check the system a mechanic would use a manifold gauge set, which has one gauge to show the low side pressure and one gauge to show the high side pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test for a clog in the system is to install the gauge, the pressures should be equal on both sides. Run the car with the AC, compressor running and the air in the car blasting full force. The low side should go down to around 30 psi or so. The high side to 250 psi or so. If there is a clog the low side will draw down into a vacuum and stay there. The high side will go way past 250 psi. This test only shows the existence of a clog and can't say where the clog is. Also it is a concern regarding where the clog came from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The given numbers aren't a hard rule, more like a general guide line. Every car is slightly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:33:26.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19384" CreationDate="2015-08-27T18:58:21.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve) needs to be replaced. It's not a hard thing to replace. The IAC opens and closes to allow air into the throttle body when the throttle blade(s) are closed (which is at idle). It might be dirty or have debris lodged in it which is causing it to act up. I've been able to replace them on older 2005 vehicles for $20 from AutoZone, but I recommend getting a good one from the dealer (a little more expensive). If you want, you can also try cleaning the valve before replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A malfunctioning IAC will also cause the car to idle very rough or stall when the AC is on even if the car is fine with the AC off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the issue then it may be the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) which is used in drive-by-wire systems in place of physical throttle linkage. If that's the case though, you would usually get a CEL (check engine light). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:58:21.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13004" CreationDate="2015-08-27T20:13:54.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An ECU is an engine control  unit. A PCM is a power train control module. They are the same thing. Automakers love alphabet soup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start my investigation at the coolant temperature sensor. A CTS normally reads -40 when it's unplugged or there is something wrong with the connector or wiring like an open or corroded/deformed pin. A simple way to check is to carefully (don't bend or deform the pins in the connector) short the two wires in the connector for the CTS together. When this happens the code reader should show a super high, something around 290 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not change or does not read very close to 290 degrees I would look over all the wiring from the sensor to the engine computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T20:13:54.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T21:20:02.087" Score="1" ViewCount="3066" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Nissan Sentra shows a P0171 and P0101 code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to clean the sensor and the part after that (I don't know the name) and it's still showing the engine light. The sensor seems like new to me and I want to know if I really have to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it safe to drive for 16 hours with this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11950" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T10:41:29.853" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T10:45:59.287" Title="Codes like P0171, P0101" Tags="|nissan|cel|sentra|p0171|p0101|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19645" CreationDate="2015-08-27T21:39:15.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You may have already fixed your problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to clear the codes for the Check Engine Light to go away. It may be that the sensor is clean but the check engine light is being shown because it's retained in the computer's memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the codes are cleared, see if the CEL stays off or if it returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the issue returns&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0171&lt;/code&gt; is saying that the system is detecting too much air compared to fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0101&lt;/code&gt; is saying that the ECU doesn't like the measured value of air flow coming from the MAF sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these two codes it looks like a clear case of the MAF sensor needing replacement. Cleaning doesn't always do the trick, especially if the MAF sensor hot-wire element has a lot of dust/dirt accumulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is the possibility of a problem related to the wiring of the MAF sensor, which could explain the codes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see if this is the issue, it's a good idea to have the MAF readouts inspected with a scan tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;zero&quot; reading would indicate a wiring issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the readout values change with RPM then the codes are because the sensor is fouled and needs replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T10:45:59.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T10:45:59.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19651" CreationDate="2015-08-27T23:16:26.237" Score="3" ViewCount="8314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a car brand new 9 months ago. My tire pressure sensor came on. I checked the tire pressure, and it was at 35 PSI. My maximum tire pressure is 51 PSI with a warning not to fill above 40 PSI. I filled my tires to 40 PSI. The warning light did not go off. I then checked the car specific information in my door jam, and it says to keep my tires at 30 PSI:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqISW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused. Assuming my tires did not gain air pressure over the last 9 months, they were at least at 35 PSI when brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my tires are were at 35+ PSI when brand new, and they are at 40 PSI now. The car recommendation is 30 PSI. The tires have a max capacity of 51 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I let 10 PSI out of my tires? I was under the impression they were low at 35 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 2015 Subaru Forester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11954" LastEditorUserId="11954" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T00:14:25.100" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T18:00:19.017" Title="Should I let air out of my tires?" Tags="|tires|subaru|forester|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19640" CreationDate="2015-08-27T23:36:42.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used powdered laundry detergent as Speedy-Dri to absorb the oil. Pour it over the stain allow it to sit for several days. Move the powder around with a brush or broom. Sprinkle enough water on it to make a slurry. Using a stiff brush scrub the area then rinse clean. Depending on the porosity of the material it may take two or three applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T23:36:42.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19640" CreationDate="2015-08-28T00:20:03.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use the same procedure in the answer provided by mikes, but using trisodium phosphate (often called TSP) instead of laundry detergent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's readily available in home improvement stores, and is fairly cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TSP is more strongly basic than laundry detergent, which is mostly sodium carbonate, so it's a stronger degreaser. It also doesn't foam up, which I prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is more corrosive than sodium carbonate, it's also more irritating to the skin, so you'll want to avoid skin contact (wear gloves and glasses), and avoid getting it on painted surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover the stain with TSP and enough water to produce a thick paste, brush it in aggressively, and let it stand for a couple of days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T00:20:03.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19648" CreationDate="2015-08-28T00:38:43.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be misinterpreting your tire pressure indicator light. Usually the light comes on when the tire pressure drops &lt;strong&gt;below&lt;/strong&gt; a certain level in at least one tire. I've not heard of one responding to too high a pressure, but I suppose it's possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your pressure indicator light may be indicating a problem with the tire pressure sensor system itself. Or it could be that the overinflation of the tires is causing the system to alarm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the indicator comes on does it blink for a while, then turn steady? If so, you may have a problem with the system, like a defective sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually recommend following the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure, because they've probably analyzed a lot of factors to come up with that recommendation. 30-32 is recommended by Subaru, but going to 35 is probably not going to cause a major problem. 40 may be a bit high however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overinflation can improve mileage, but it can also cause uneven wear, a rougher ride, and in some cases may affect handling and braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that tire pressure changes with temperature, so if you inflate to 40 PSI cold, the pressure could be significantly higher after driving for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T00:38:43.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T01:24:43.133" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would the headlights on a 2006 Saab 9-3 come on by themselves while the car is off and parked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11955" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T01:43:56.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T09:41:48.490" Title="Headlights come on by themselves" Tags="|headlight|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T02:04:19.153" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently sent my 2007 Honda Accord LX 94k miles into the shop after getting rear ended by someone who was texting and driving. I got a call from the shop saying that it was declared a total loss. The final numbers weren't sent to me yet, but am wondering what I should do before accepting an offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this car used in cash at the beginning of the year for $8100. I am a college student and really don't want to get ripped off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by autotrader, craigslist, etc. You can't get one for much under $8000. If they offer me, say $5000, or $6000, how can I argue for more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11956" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T11:52:04.633" Title="Car declared a total loss, what do I do?" Tags="|damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19648" CreationDate="2015-08-28T05:54:04.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is relatively brand new, you may have inferred TPMS, which compares the rolling radius of each tire. If any single tire rolls more rapidly than another, then that tire must have lower pressure than the other, assuming the same tire size. This eliminates the tire pressure sensor in each wheel and its replacement upon tire replacement. So if one tire had a much higher or lower pressure than another, this could have lit up your TPMS light.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Also, if you filled your tires in the winter and not a molecule of air leaked out, they would be high in the summer. The hotter the tire, the higher the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T05:54:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19653" CreationDate="2015-08-28T07:59:40.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;what a pitty for your Honda Accord:( &#xA;be aware that some shops are saying that the car is declared total loss while it isn't really, maybe you can ask for another dealers opinion? Do you have any pictures so I can see it myself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how the car looks like(the damage) so I can't tell you how much you will get for your Accord, if their offer is too low, you can go to another dealer/shop and ask their opinion. if they are offering you too low as well, you can still sell your car in pieces, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the feeling, when I crashed my Golf GTI I sold it in pieces as well since there was too much to repair. any store/dealer would have given crap and I simply don't have the time to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T07:59:40.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19630" CreationDate="2015-08-28T08:15:29.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zaid is right, (all credits for his post) I just want to say that I've had the same problems a couple days ago, this can help alot: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not very expensive to repair and not difficult at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goodluck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T08:15:29.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19652" CreationDate="2015-08-28T09:41:48.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly a problem with the computer that controls them (which might be the BCM - Body Control Module, or might be a separate dedicated module). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had the same problem with a 2001 BMW, and water had got into said module through a perished seal and shorted a number of connections within it, causing the lights to go on and off at seemingly random times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T09:41:48.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19653" CreationDate="2015-08-28T09:46:58.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's the same in the US, but over here, as you were the victim, you have the right to have the car repaired or replaced to the same standard as it was before the crash - bear in mind that it'll be the other driver's insurance that will be paying for it. Stand your ground and don't accept anything less than the cost of a similar condition car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought the car only a few months ago and still have the receipt, you should have a good case for the value of it (it won't have depreciated much, if at all, in that time). Gather plenty of other evidence as to the value as well, such as adverts for similar cars (printed, with dates on the printouts), completed listings on eBay, etc, as that will all help your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T09:46:58.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19653" CreationDate="2015-08-28T10:39:21.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Think outside the box&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It entails more work on your part, but if money matters then one way to make the most of this catastrophe is to &lt;strong&gt;part out&lt;/strong&gt; the Accord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mass-produced vehicle and there will be plenty of owners out there in need of an odd mechanical, body or interior part who will be happy to buy used parts if they are in good nick and the price is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What can be salvaged?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the damage affects the rear of the vehicle, the following things should be salvageable. The list is not exhaustive, just a list of items which spring to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engine bay&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine subframe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headlights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling fan(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air intake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AC compressor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake booster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Interior&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interior trim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glovebox&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear selector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatbelts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Body&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front wings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine bonnet/hood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake discs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How do I know what's the right price to charge for each part?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't give estimates because it'll differ across regions and over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use eBay, Craigslist and local experts as a reference. The more you undercut the price of the competition, the better your chances of selling the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's the investment?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's modest. Most parts are easy to dismantle with a ½&quot;-drive ratchet set and a set of screwdrivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is really just basic project management requirements - time, planning and room to work on the car and store parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T10:52:56.943" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T10:52:56.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19653" CreationDate="2015-08-28T11:52:04.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;wait until the insurers make you an offer on the car.  Remember you are not claiming just for the car but the time and inconvenience of having to find another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't happy with the offer, get a letter from the Honda owners club stating their opinion of value of the vehicle pre-accident condition.  I don't know how it works where you are but in the UK we have an Insurance Ombudsman why can assist in setting things like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, you may be pleasantly surprised by their offer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T11:52:04.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2015-08-28T11:55:05.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine recently had a similar issue on his 18,000 mile Ford C-Max, attributed to a failed hydraulic cylinder which then emptied fluid all over the clutch thus ruining it.  I wonder if there is a hydraulic problem with these cars that Ford aren't talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon having the clutch repaired, it was discovered that there was a problem with the input shaft on the gearbox. When the specialists came to rebuild it, they found it impossible to source a second hand input shaft that was usable. Apparently these gearboxes eat input shafts which could account for clutch and related failure on Ford vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's fair to say, a manufacturing or design fault could be a reason for early failure of a clutch for a reason other that driving style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T14:57:47.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T14:57:47.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16672" CreationDate="2015-08-28T12:02:46.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than reprogram the ECU to ignore the sensor (which could then cause problems in the event there was a problem with your engine oil), why not simply replace the sensor.  I'm sure it will be an inexpensive part when compared to the potential damage running with an unreported oil fault could cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as you say you've checked and replaced the sensor several times, check that condition of the loom and connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T12:54:16.623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T12:54:16.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T14:13:17.590" Score="2" ViewCount="2328" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding down the street, our motorcycle just died. Tried to restart it and it sounded like it wasn't firing. We changed the plug and ignition coil and still not firing. What should we do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11965" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T21:29:38.063" Title="2015 hawk 250cc enduro motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21902" CreationDate="2015-08-28T14:48:23.937" Score="5" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a power washer for the purpose of cleaning engines, bays and car / engine undersides of built up dirt and oil and was wondering what the minimum PSI and flow rate required are to accomplish this task, as I don't want to buy a more expensive washer than I have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T00:41:08.800" Title="Washing Engine Bay / Underside From Oil / Dirt" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T16:47:26.973" Score="3" ViewCount="28256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Ford Focus.  For some reason my low beams won't work.  I've checked the fuses, replaced the relay, replaced the bulbs, and replaced the headlight switch in the dash.  Still nothing.  All other lights work; high and fog.  I'm at a loss for what to do. What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11966" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T21:00:10.890" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T20:48:33.933" Title="Low beams won't work" Tags="|ford|headlight|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4002" CreationDate="2015-08-28T17:59:09.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a vehicle technician for BMW I can assure that it is good for your engine to get rid of EGR. EGR systems are there to improve the exhaust gas quality and slightly win a few miles on a tank (in theory). What really happens is quite different. Your oil will become polluted quicker, your manifold / intake will get clogged by excessive amounts of soot and eventually your car will become a big pollution mobile that isn't as fast as when you bought it. The people who know this solve this problem easily by disabling the EGR system on old cars. But on cars from 2004 and on, it can get more difficult because chip tuning might be needed. In any case, removing the EGR is a bit more harmful for the environment, but not as harmful as a clogged up diesel engine &amp;amp; disabling makes a lot of diesels pretty much indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11967" LastEditorUserId="700" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T19:20:08.267" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T19:20:08.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T18:22:56.977" Score="1" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I properly estimate CO2 emissions for a given travel distance (of a private vehicle)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the following formula, but I'm not sure that it's correct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;kgCO2 = Average fuel consumption per 100 km * kgCO2 per liter of fuel * travel distance / 100 km&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if a vehicle consumes around 5 l/km, traveling distance is 35km and this is a diesel vehicle, then the result would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5 * 2.9 * 35 / 100 = 5.075 kgCO2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't know if 2.9 if a correct value of kgCO2 per liter of diesel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, I want to consider a vehicle occupancy factor (for instance, 1 passenger would refer to 25%, 2 passengers would refer to 50%, etc.) that also somehow impacts CO2 emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, many other factors (e.g. car production year) might be additionally considered. However, I'm searching for a relatively simple (though quite accurate) formula that would take into account fuel type (diesel, petrol, gas), vehicle occupancy factor, travel distance and average fuel consumption per 100km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11968" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:34:17.063" Title="How can I estimate CO2 emissions for a vehicle travel distance" Tags="|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-31T17:02:00.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19666" CreationDate="2015-08-28T19:07:03.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post got way longer than I wanted it to be, but you've shown effort and I have some knowledge that could help you.  Please read through this fully before starting any of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is information is based off the wiring schematics for a non-russian 2003 Ford Focus.&lt;/strong&gt;  Surprisingly, the russian model is quite a bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of if you have HIDs or not your plan of action is basically the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be one fuse in your passenger compartment fuse panel that feeds your ignition switch and light switch.  I'm assuming it's good because you have high beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those switches control the &lt;strong&gt;low beam&lt;/strong&gt; relay in the engine bay fuse box.  &lt;em&gt;There is also a high beam relay&lt;/em&gt;; Don't use that one, find the low beam relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start our testing there, we will need a tool called a &lt;code&gt;multimeter&lt;/code&gt;.  Don't be intimidated by electricity.  What we're doing is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plug the red wire that comes with it into the hole that has a &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; in its label.  Plug the black wire into the hole that says &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to look for the 20 Volt DC option on the dial.  It should look like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JItLr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JItLr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20 Volt DC option on multimeter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solid line with three dots underneath it is the symbol for DC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably will want an assistant.  Your assistant's job is to just stand there and hold the pointy end of the black wire (called a &quot;lead&quot;) to and &lt;strong&gt;unpainted&lt;/strong&gt; metal part.  This completes the electrical loop.  They only need to hold it there when you are testing something with the red lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, remove the &lt;em&gt;low beam&lt;/em&gt; relay.  You should be able to see four slots now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the car off, insert the red lead into each slot.  One of those slots should make the meter say 12 Volts (roughly).  The other three should say 0 Volts (roughly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lead won't fit in the slot then you can file the lead so it's thinner, hit it with a hammer, or just push harder and jam it into the slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find one that reads 12V, then there is a break or burn somewhere on the inside of the fuse panel.  I do not recommend looking into this yourself unless you know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've found the &quot;always hot&quot;, turn on the car and the low beams.  I know they don't light up, but turn the switch so they're on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insert your lead into the remaining three slots and find which one reads 12V.  That's your &quot;switched hot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't one that lights up, there is a break or burn somewhere between the light switch and the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the relay, each headlight has its own fuse.  So there are two more fuses you need to check.  The high beams also each have a fuse so be sure and check the two that &lt;em&gt;aren't&lt;/em&gt; high beam fuses.  Or just check all four to be safe.  These fuses are in the under hood fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even stick your multimeter lead into each of the fuses slots.  With the car on and the low beams turned on, one slot for each fuse should read 12V.  If they don't there is a break or burn inside of the fuse box.  I don't recommend looking into this yourself unless you know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you haven't found the problem yet, let's test where the headlights plug in.  This is going to be the most likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove each bulb and insert the multimeter lead into the slots of the sockert/connector with the car on and the low beams on. One slot for each headlight should read 12V.  If there isn't one that reads 12V, you have a break or burn somewhere between the under hood fuse box and the headlight connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely place for it to break is right where the wire goes into the headlight connector.  Water is likely here and will cause corrosion.  If it's not broken here then follow the wire between the fuse box and head light and look for burn marks or where it has rubbed against metal and it's plastic insulation has worn away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still can't find it, throw the multimeter at the ground, yell, grab a beer, and post an ad on craigslist for a 2007 Ford Focus!  :p  Actually, you should probably just calmly call a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T21:51:26.487" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:51:26.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16466" CreationDate="2015-08-28T20:24:20.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuse box turned out to be a red-herring. I had tried to start the car too many times causing the fuse box to melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct answer was that the ignition switch has many contacts; One of those contacts is, presumably, the starter solenoid contact.  This contact was not connecting when I turned the key.  Try to move your key in the ignition if this happens to you. I found this out when the car wouldn't start again and I bumped the key while turning it. I have done this several times now so it is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seasonal temperature may cause the metal contacts in the ignition switch assembly to warp; this is one theory to why temperature may have an effect on the chance of the car starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10179" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:24:20.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19668" CreationDate="2015-08-28T20:34:17.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the chemical side, the answer is quite simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When burning 12g of carbon, this carbon takes 32g of oxygen from the air and so forms 44g of CO2. The reason is simple: One carbon atom weights 12 units, one oxygen atom 16 units. So a CO2 molecule weights 12+2*16=44 units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you know how much carbon is in one liter / gallon / kilogram of fuel, you can calculate how much CO2 is released when you burn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol: A molecule of C2H6O weights 2*12+6*1+1*16=46 units and contains 2*12=24 units of carbon. So, 1kg of ethanol contains 0.52kg carbon, which turns to 1.91kg of CO2. The density of ethanol is 0.789kg/l, so 1 liter ethanol generates 1.51kg CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel (and gasoline) are mixtures of different substances, so it's hard to calculate the amount of carbon inside without knowing the composition of that fuel. So, I found a lower value for diesel on Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Diesel:     2.62kg CO2 per liter of fuel&#xA;Gasoline:   2.32kg CO2 per liter of fuel&#xA;Ethanol:    1.51kg CO2 per liter of fuel&#xA;LPG:     1.8-2.0kg CO2 per liter of fuel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: LPG is a mixture of butan and propan, but the ratio can vary heavily.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more important question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much fuel do you actually burn?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all know the mileage stated by the manufacturers have nothing to do with reality. Highway consumes less than city, mountainous routes more than flat routes. Having more people / luggage in a car does not consume much more on the highway, but in the city / mountains, it does. Weather, altitude and driver behaviour have effects, too.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The age of the car doesn't matter (except it has a generally worse mileage). An old engine may spit more unburnt/partially burnt fuel, but that's negligible compared to the total amount of burnt fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, your mileage can vary a lot by outer circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the most accurate value can be obtained if you exactly know how much fuel you burned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;kgCO2 = kgCO2perLiter * litersBurnt&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best value can be calculated from your experience what your average mileage is, and then &lt;strong&gt;you can use exactly your formula&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to split the CO2 among the people in the car, do it. It depends on what you want to express with your calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:34:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15728" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:07:41.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the HVAC system paths will vary greatly between cars, try these first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the items are metal or contain metal, use an extendable magnet to reach straight in, or if it is further in then use a magnet tied to a string or dental floss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sNeRa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sNeRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extendable Magnet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use a long hook (used in dentistry) to reach in and hopefully loop the item, or again attach it to a string/dental floss to feed it deeper into the vent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdxeB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdxeB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dental Pick&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If both of these fail, look for the joints between the HVAC pathways where the item(s) may have came to rest. Sometimes they can be separated without removing anything else, but I have rarely been successful in getting these apart without removing some dash components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:07:41.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:42:50.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a NP241OR on my Wrangler, and would never downgrade myself (4:1 ratio, significantly stronger than the other t-cases), but yes you can mount a NV231 or NP242 with no modifications to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chassis supports and general shape of the T-box (the swap should not be immediately apparent).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the inputs/outputs of transfer cases are easily swappable, and thus what you source your NP242 from (and whether or not the previous owner made any modifications themselves, like the very common slip-yoke eliminations or spline changes to accommodate non-stock driveshafts). According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwesttrans.com/NP242_Transfer_Case.html#followingmodels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rebuilder&lt;/a&gt;, the NP242 came in both 21 and 23 spline input varieties, and doesn't look to have nearly as much variety as more common ones (see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.midwesttrans.com/NP241.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NP241&lt;/a&gt; page for an idea of how much different input/output options can vary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that to say you may need to adapt the input and output, but the NP242 itself will work just fine, albeit significantly weaker and with a less extreme reduction ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is note the input spline count (23) of your model, and the output style, and seek either a NP242 that exactly matches, or plan on retrofitting with the proper input/output, or swap them from your NP241. Since modifications and even swaps are common, don't just assume the donor vehicle matches the OEM specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:42:50.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19640" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:46:30.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My scooter often leaves stains in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe is to pour fine sand (e.g. for birds from the pet shop) on it for a few days. After, I remove the sand and pour fresh sand on the stains, and pour some cleaning solvent on it. It enters the concrete and dissolves the oil. &#xA;While the solvent evaporates above the sand, more solvent with oil rises from the concrete into the sand. Finally, all the solvent has evaporated, and the oil is in the sand. May be, you have to repeat the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;While I believe that using cleaning solvent (or even gasoline) is more powerful than any water-with-chemicals, the vapours are highly flammable. You should also not inhale them. And most important for your case: You should never let such solvents get into the ground. So, while it's fine on a concrete plate, it is not on paving stones.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:46:30.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19049" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:54:01.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely culprit is the piston rings. One way to check before you replace them is to compression test the cylinder, then put a few drops of motor oil into the spark plug hole, and retest. If the compression goes up, it's because the oil is making a better seal on the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the rings on a single-cylinder motorcycle is fairly easy, search online for a guide if you're interested in doing it yourself. A shop would likely charge $400 - $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:54:01.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1410" CreationDate="2015-08-28T22:18:08.733" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You run the risk of damaging the alternator and/or computer ECU on the Donor/Booster car, when connecting directly to the negative of the dead car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T22:18:08.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2015-08-28T22:43:26.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know when it comes to drift cars, they go with a lower profile to reduce the shaking of the the side walls, making it more predictable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11971" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T10:31:39.083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T10:31:39.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19679" CreationDate="2015-08-28T23:35:11.377" Score="6" ViewCount="45295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 Honda Accord with 122K miles on it.  Recently, if I drive over bumpy roads, I'll sometimes feel vibrations seemingly from the underside of the car, almost as if something might be loose.  Sometimes I can feel the gas pedal vibrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car in to the Honda dealer and they looked at it.  They said that the vibrations were likely caused by a power steering rack leak and a worn tie rod.  On the invoice, it specifically says &quot;Left front inner tie rod has excessive play and power steering rack is leaking at that point.  Replace power steering rack and exhaust system to start.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said that in order to replace the power steering rack and possibly tie rod, they would have to remove the exhaust first.  But the exhaust has rusted and they said it would totally fall apart if they removed it and wouldn't be able to put it back on.  So I'd have to replace the exhaust too and all of that might cost $3400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they said they didn't think it was necessary to fix, and that I could continue driving the car without any problems (besides the vibrations).  I asked when the power steering rack would run out of whatever it's leaking, and they said it looked like it had been leaking for a while, and that it could be years before it becomes a serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is this something that can be safely ignored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T13:27:30.423" Title="Is it OK to not fix a power steering rack leak?" Tags="|honda|accord|exhaust|power-steering|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19678" CreationDate="2015-08-29T00:00:54.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never ignore a worn tie rod; you could be driving down the road, hit a serious bump, and suddenly lose your ability to steer in a straight line, or worse. If you have the the tie rod replaced, I doubt that any reputable mechanic would tackle that without also repairing the power steering rack. I personally would never ignore any kind of steering issues. The risk/benefit calculations just don't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T05:38:24.653" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T05:38:24.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18894" CreationDate="2015-08-29T01:44:56.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanic changed out the spark plug wires.  This stopped the jerking and revving.  The engine light came back in after I drove it 20 miles.  I requested a smoke test, but I was told that it wasn't necessary.  At this point, I'm just going to handle this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11520" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T01:44:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T02:27:08.163" Score="0" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Already replaced the alternator and battery.  Alternator is putting out 13.7 volts and battery is reading 14.1.  I jumped the battery and starts right up, but after removing jumper cables the dash lights begin to flicker and then after a few minutes the car loses all electrical power.  I am at a loss of what could be causing this since the alternator and battery are working fine.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11972" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T13:10:08.587" Title="2002 Dodge Stratus loses all electric power after jump starting and running a few minutes" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T06:14:49.947" Score="3" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;Work up to one head light no working on low beam. Both are working when on high beam. Checked all fuses, and the seem to be ok. Relay terminals are brand new. But after a week there is only one head light working on low beam, but both work on high beam. Any ideas out there??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11973" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T06:14:49.947" Title="Nissan vanette, low beams not working, high beams are! New relay wires still no change? It's a 1998" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2015-08-29T06:27:11.357" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Not at all. Someone said here this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You lose the added benefit of engine braking if the car's not in gear&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not true for automatic gears. Transmission still will allow the power from engine to go to wheels. Putting in Neutral will cut the power immediately and shorten the distance you need to come to a full stop. Try stopping from 40 mph with and without putting in neutral. You will even feel the car slowing down a lot faster in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be very helpful if you are speeding on highway and need to stop as short as possible, or in fully stopped/stopping for traffic like red a light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt putting in Drive harms the transmission because at all. in fact it might be less harmful than putting in Drive when fully stopped because car will not need all the power to move, because it has already have some speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All above ASSUMING that you will not put the pedal to the medal (accelerating in Neutral). Shifting to Drive at high RPM is very harmful to the transmission, let alone high RPM may cause problem for the engine as well in the long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11974" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T06:27:11.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19686" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:03:21.143" Score="10" ViewCount="16147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a starter relay / solenoid for my 2004 Yamaha TT600RE. That part seems to be scarce for this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How interchangeable are solenoids for motorcycles? Will any Yamaha 600cc solenoid fit this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I find just any ol' solenoid with 180 A amperage and 4,4 Ω ± 5% resistance and pop it in there, is it likely to get the job done? How about any motorcycle solenoid, period (in a pinch)? I've seen some cheap &quot;universal&quot; solenoids, are these to be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TT-600-E-New-Starter-Solenoid-Relay-12v-/221077164009?&quot;&gt;this is what the starter relay for my bike looks like&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-12V-Starter-Relay-Solenoid-Pit-Monkey-Quad-Bike-Scooter-Motorcycle/111625692885?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&amp;amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D32956%26meid%3D340afee32316492c95df2b427d7c7419%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D221077164009&quot;&gt;here is a cheap universal one that looks like it would work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11593" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T07:02:21.267" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T07:02:21.267" Title="Will any starter relay / solenoid do? For my motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|starter|yamaha|tt600|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19685" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:57:49.053" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: Maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it is a 12v motorcycle starter relay you should be fine. The problem is whether or not it will fit your bike physically (that is whether the size of the solenoid will fit into the compartment designated in your motorcycle, and whether you have bullet, spade etc etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a few of the cheap Chinese ones off eBay and they are hit and miss. One has stayed in an old CB400 for years with no problem. I put one in a CB360 and it blew in less than 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also taken solenoids from one model of bike and crimped new connectors to make it fit a different model bike with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is a starter solenoid is a simple electro-mechanical switch: provided it is 12volt you can theoretically make any relay fit any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:57:49.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19688" CreationDate="2015-08-29T10:17:26.107" Score="1" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Polo 2001, 37000 miles, manual transmission, 1.4 engine, with a replaced clutch and timing belt, and a reconditioned gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't face any resistance in my pedal last night. The first guy who picked me up from the motorway said it was a snapped clutch cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second guy, from the RAC, said the clutch cable wasn't broken, it was stretched. He went into the bonnet and tightened up the but on the end of the cable at the clutch side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the clutch works. He said I should get it checked to find out why it stretched in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can I just get along with it for now? If so, how long? I need to find a garage but that's proving difficult on a Saturday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11481" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:29:42.640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:29:42.640" Title="My clutch cable has been stretched and since tightened to fix it. Should I replace it?" Tags="|vw|clutch|manual-transmission|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19687" CreationDate="2015-08-29T10:29:05.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine for now (with the caveat, you never know ... anything is possible). The second guy you talked to who adjusted it for you is correct. You need to find a mechanic who will figure out why it has stretched. It may be that the cable has already started to fray or come apart somewhere along its length. I would surmise that it's only a matter of time and it will either stretch more or quite possibly snap like you thought it had done in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to get it done as soon as possible is my best advice. It's never good to be stranded on the motorway. It might last another couple of days, or it may last for a couple of years. Just know once it starts stretching bad enough to require adjustment as you've described, it won't be long until its done (in most cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T10:29:05.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19640" CreationDate="2015-08-29T11:02:14.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all due respect to the previous answers, I'm a little confused as to whether or not the most appropriate product is available in your country as it has not been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective way of removing oil stains from a driveway is with the product intended for removing oil and grease: Degreaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto-parts stores usually sell it in spray can for easy application for about $2 a can right up to industrial drums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply degreaser, wait a few minutes, hose off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example products:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;US:&lt;br/&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastwood.com/engine-degreaser-16oz-4644.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.eastwood.com/engine-degreaser-16oz-4644.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/16816129?reviews_limit=7&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.walmart.com/ip/16816129?reviews_limit=7&amp;amp;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;AUS:&lt;br/&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Export-Degreaser-400g.aspx?pid=1196#Recommendations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Export-Degreaser-400g.aspx?pid=1196#Recommendations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2024-01-11T13:14:49.240" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T13:14:49.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T14:46:25.403" Score="3" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm installing an Auto Meter water temp gauge and didn't receive an adapter with it. Anyone know the thread size of the stock coolant temp sender on a B16A2 engine? (Single wire)... I was going to do a T fitting on the upper rad hose, but I can't find a 1.25 T fitting with a -27 NPT top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't splice into stock wire because values are different and it will ground out. I've been searching everywhere to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11976" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T20:24:24.150" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:24:24.150" Title="What is the 2000 civic SIR coolant temperature sensor thread size?" Tags="|honda|civic|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23022" CreationDate="2015-08-29T15:28:03.473" Score="8" ViewCount="4174" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2014 Subaru Forrester whose AC Compressor clutch operation is unlike other cars I've ever owned.  The video linked is from when the car is cold and AC is engaged.  It appears that the clutch is slipping for the first few seconds, but the loud buzzing and noise accompanying engagement remain until warm. The clutch engages fully once warm as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the dealership this is all normal and refuse to replace the compressor until it completely fails and don't care that the noise makes the vehicle sound like a junker. Careless; considering a slipping clutch will eventually lead to bearing failure, a break of the serpentine belt, and overheating of the engine leaving us stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that others have had this fixed under warranty, so I'm wondering how to have this repaired without voiding the warranty by bringing it to a shop other than the dealership. Perhaps another dealership is my only option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; After visiting the dealer to pick up the car and debating things with the tech who reviewed the operation, he claimed that this vehicle's compressor clutch needs to warm up to engage fully, and again the buzzing is normal until warm. My question would be, what magnetic clutch which is properly gapped, needs to have its friction surfaces heated before it'll catch completely? As far as I'm aware, the clutch is either engaged fully, or disengaged fully. There is no gradual application of pressure. If this was normal operation, would it not be expected to occur every time, and not intermittently depending upon engine, pulley and, ambient temperatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only guess the buzzing noise is a symptom of the slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I'm being lead on, but would like a professional to weigh in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RPHatuT1neo&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/RPHatuT1neo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11291" LastEditorUserId="11291" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T23:53:08.400" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T18:23:15.337" Title="2014 Subaru Forrester AC Compressor clutch noise, slippage" Tags="|ac|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2015-08-29T15:55:03.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;bank one sensor one is the upstream sensor on the back side near the firewall not the front one near the fan. I also made this mistake. although if you had changed both you would have fixed the problem by coincident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11978" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T15:55:03.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T18:13:15.813" Score="2" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced battery and now after starting the car and driving it for less than 70 feet temperature guage slowly rises to top and car loses electrical power.  Then guage goes down and power restored.  the radiator is not hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11979" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T18:13:15.813" Title="My temperature gauge slowly goes to top then car dies" Tags="|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19690" CreationDate="2015-08-29T18:34:59.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;hate&lt;/strong&gt; dealing with adding aftermarket parts and dealing with sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the replacement &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/coolant-temperature-sensor/duralast-coolant-temperature-sensor/honda/civic-si/2000/4-cylinders-1-6l-mfi-vtec-dohc/78826_0_18589/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duralast Coolant Temperature Sensor&lt;/a&gt; for your vehicle and engine.  In the description, it says it's thread is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;M12 x 1.5 Thread&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  The ValuCraft brand version agrees about the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T18:34:59.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T19:00:10.583" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I tried to replace the broken &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/4141/Corner-Light-Assembly-Driver-Side-1312623/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;corner light assembly&lt;/a&gt; on my '92 Volvo 240 last night.  On the old unit, the gray connector (pictured in link) was stuck, and eventually pulled free with part of the other side of the connector, as it was heavily corroded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: &lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to repair the broken wire/fitting/plug?&lt;/strong&gt;  I don't know if it's a standard connection type that I can buy at the hardware store, or if I'll need to buy another replacement part.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11980" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:50:31.557" Title="Repair broken light connector on Volvo 240" Tags="|electrical|volvo|lights|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T19:08:42.347" Score="1" ViewCount="6075" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine A Specifications:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Displacement: 1198 CC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Power (bhp @ rpm): 87 @ 6000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Torque (Nm @ rpm): 110 @ 4800&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine B Specifications:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Displacement: 1197 CC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Power (bhp @ rpm): 82 @ 6000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Torque (Nm @ rpm): 115 @ 4000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brief explanation to answer will be much helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11981" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T19:16:43.763" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:00:11.183" Title="Which Engine is more powerful?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19719" CreationDate="2015-08-29T19:15:42.967" Score="13" ViewCount="16785" Body="&lt;p&gt;This just came up in my curious mind. In a typical four-stroke engine with an even number of cylinders, spark plugs fire in pairs. This means there is a &lt;strong&gt;wasted spark&lt;/strong&gt; as one cylinder is in exhaust, while the other actually fires at the top of compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this is probably done to save space under the hood since it would double the number of required coil packs. It also saves money on initial purchase and replacement. However, they don't take up much space and don't cost that much (at least for my 4-cyl car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: &lt;strong&gt;Why not double the number of coil packs to avoid the wasted spark?&lt;/strong&gt; Though this would take up more space and cost more for the packs, surly it would reduce wear and tear on the spark plugs to some extent as well as the spark plug wires and perhaps the alternator. This would half the number of sparks on each plug since they could be set to only fire on a compression stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the space and cost considerations answers the question, but I was hoping for some other thoughts on the advantages/disadvantages of a system that avoids the wasted spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: Do two-cylinder engines typically spark both cylinders at the same time? Or do they tend to spark separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question 2: Is there a wasted spark in engines with an odd number of cylinders? I wouldn't think so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:24:24.743" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:24:24.743" Title="Why the wasted spark in four-stroke motors?" Tags="|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19696" CreationDate="2015-08-29T19:35:43.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Engine A has a higher peak power&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Namely 87 bhp vs 80 bhp. Both figures are achieved at 6000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a car doesn't always run at 6000 RPM, so it may be that Engine B has better acceleration as the engine goes through the rev range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T19:35:43.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19696" CreationDate="2015-08-29T20:00:11.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To exactly address your Question it is &lt;strong&gt;Engine A&lt;/strong&gt; as zaid suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoping to give clarity on the engines themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine A:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This has a better power than engine B , you will find this engine better for in gear acceleration and overtaking manuevers also this engine will allow a higher top speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine B:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This engine has better torque than engine A, you will find this engine better for city driving purposes since at slow speeds/RPMs its the Torque which is more prominent than the BHP. This engine will also have better fuel economy compared to engine A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:00:11.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19695" CreationDate="2015-08-29T20:50:31.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part image in the link shows three wires: green, white and black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejDon.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejDon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;part image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining the image with &lt;a href=&quot;https://brickwalla.wordpress.com/2011/11/16/hard-wiring-my-tails/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blogpost&lt;/a&gt;, which explains how to hardwire the 240 taillights, the green/blue is a signal wire for the turn indicator, black is ground. White is purportedly not used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDkbR.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDkbR.gif&quot; alt=&quot;taillight schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Options at your disposal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Source the connector pair and solder/crimp them in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardwire the connection by crimping or soldering, eliminating the need for the grey connector altogether&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace with a generic connector that can be found at a regular electrical hardware store, similar to what has been described in the blogpost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-240-740-940-12/tail-light-wiring-harnesses-25008/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Volvo forum discussion&lt;/a&gt; is anything to go by, it's not uncommon to hardwire the lights up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:50:31.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T22:14:13.350" Score="1" ViewCount="1964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a (pretty slow for now) power steering fluid leak on my Mazda 6. During regular maintenance at my dealership I asked them to take a look and they told me that that entire rack and pinion needs to be replaced. I'm not an expert in mechanics, but I don't get why fixing a leak would require changing the entire rack and pinion. The dealer asked $1800 for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went to another mechanic and they told me the same thing. But at least quoted it at $1200. If I understand correctly, they would take the existing one off and then 'rebuild' it or something like that, it wasn't clear from what the guy said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What also sucks is that I was going to sell the car, but now potentially facing a $1200 repair makes the things more complicated. (And I don't want to sell it without letting the buyer know there's (or was) a problem like that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, searching on the web some people suggest using those stop leak fluids, but I'm not sure it's a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone here has had a similar problem and found a better (and cheaper) effective solution, would be great to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T22:35:45.463" Title="Rack and pinion replacement alternatives" Tags="|power-steering|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T22:25:19.730" Score="4" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Ford Ranger and want to know whether to pack extra grease in the hub, especially in the space between the inside bearing and the seal and within the spindle cap outside the outer bearing. I have heard some of the same arguments on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11984" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T18:50:10.307" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T23:58:22.500" Title="Wheel bearing grease quantity" Tags="|ford|bearing|grease|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19702" CreationDate="2015-08-29T22:35:45.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rack and pinions are not rebuilt by the mechanic that is preforming the repair. Normally the replacement rack is rebuilt somewhere else (usually china) and sold to the repair shop. Once the repair shop has replaced the rack the old broken one is sent back to the part store who then sends it back to who ever rebuilt the first one to now rebuild yours, this is called a &quot;core&quot;. This cycle repeats for many auto parts including but not limited to starters, alternators, whole engines, axles, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stop leak you are referring to is a kind of seal sweller. It's a chemical that attacks the seals and causes them to swell up in the hopes of stopping or slowing down the leak due to a worn or even damaged rubber seals. While this may slow down the leak or even stop it for a while it is only a band-aid and only delays the inevitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you may consider is if your selling the car replace the rack with a used one instead of a rebuilt/new one. Although on a Mazda 6 i'm not sure how much savings it would give you because the replacement is somewhat involved and the labor would be quite high regardless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T22:35:45.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19697" CreationDate="2015-08-29T22:41:59.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some four-stroke engines &lt;strong&gt;did&lt;/strong&gt; have wasted spark ignition. The basic advantage was not needing a distributor, which was one of the less reliable parts of the ignition system. Wasted spark systems were used long before plug-top coil packs came into common use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reliability issues are not so important with modern ignition components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wasted spark ignition is more or less standard on small single-cylinder four-strokes that use magneto ignition, because of its simple and reliable design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In motorcycle engines wasted spark has the advantage of using fewer coils, each of which can be physically bigger (and more powerful) in the limited space available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has a list of wasted spark ignition engines here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasted_spark#Practical_examples_of_.27wasted_spark.27&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasted_spark#Practical_examples_of_.27wasted_spark.27&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aero piston engines with two spark plugs per cylinder are designed that way for extra reliability. Each plug has a completely separate ignition system, and if one plug's system fails it has a negligible effect on the engine performance. Each ignition system can be disabled independently from the cockpit if it develops intermittent faults in flight, etc. One of the pre-flight checks is to ensure that the engine will run correctly on each ignition system with the other one disabled. This is unrelated to wasted spark ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T22:41:59.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19703" CreationDate="2015-08-29T23:05:11.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend packing either the cap or the space between the bearings. The external cap is only a dust cap and is not meant to hold back grease, just keep the dust out. The story is very similar with the inside seal. The seal is just to keep the dust out. If too much grease is put in, it may get displaced and get past the seals making a mess all over the brakes. That being said a little extra grease should not hurt anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High quality grease should always be used and a bearing packing tool is recommended. Apply some grease to the races before installing the bearings. Also place just a little grease on the surface where the the seal will ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T22:28:08.080" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T22:28:08.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T04:17:59.467" Score="2" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought a 2015 Toyota Corolla standard edition and the car does not have keyless entry feature. When the car is parked along with a million cars in a crowded lot, a beeping transponder would help greatly on locating the car.&#xA;Can I buy something where there would be a tiny transponder sitting in the car and will come with a small remote so that when I click on the remote, the transponder will beep, letting me know the location of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11991" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T02:03:39.847" Title="Can I install a beeping transponder in my Toyota corolla" Tags="|toyota|keyless-entry|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T04:45:21.030" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;My starter went on my 74 Pontiac with a chev 350 (Canadian). It first was not starting sporadically and I would have to crawl under and tap on it to get it going. I got a new starter and now it will turn over and fire but as soon as you stop cranking it quits. any help greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11992" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T11:31:00.177" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T12:57:01.077" Title="new starter in 74 pontiac with 350 turns over and fires but won't stay running" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|starting|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T10:57:59.957" Score="6" ViewCount="4392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking over the specs for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=11268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;98 Mazda 626 2L&lt;/a&gt; and noticed that it says the max power is at 5500 RPM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will the Max Power RPM also be the RPM at which the engine is most efficient assuming you're at a steady cruise?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:46:13.387" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T19:01:57.550" Title="Does Max Power RPM Equal Max FE?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|performance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T10:58:37.273" Score="1" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Matiz 1.0 with 122K Km on the meter. Today i noticed oil on air filter&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYt0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYt0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;after inspection i found this might be coming from PCV hose(green highlighted one) &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BRLVQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BRLVQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and then inspected the PCV valve.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHriw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHriw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this valve by definition is one way, but when i blew into the valve it was open from both sides. Is my PCV valve is faulty or there is something else need to check for oil on air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T11:23:26.673" Title="oil spots on Air Filter" Tags="|chevrolet|air-filter|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19713" CreationDate="2015-08-30T11:23:26.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that the valve you have pictured is the PCV valve. A PCV valve traditionally is a connection between the intake manifold and the crank case. The line pictured, from the crank case to the air filter, is most likely a fresh air intake or breather line. But i think your on the right track to look for the PCV valve. A poorly working PCV system can cause oil spots on the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you find the PCV valve it should have a spring and plunger inside. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRzAa.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRzAa.gif&quot; alt=&quot;PCV valve internal operation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you shake the valve (removed from car) it should rattle. When it's disconnected fro the crank case side only and the engine is running, placing your thumb over the valve and removing it should cause a very noticeable clicking sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T11:23:26.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2015-08-30T11:47:50.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no. The engine is most efficient at the RPM when maximum torque is achieved. It's easiest to explain with a picture. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y7lkM.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y7lkM.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Torque and Power VS RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is a function of torque and RPM. Maximum torque is achieved because the engine is able to move the maximum amount of air and fuel in and out of the engine. The power continues to climb even when the torque starts falling because the RPM is climbing faster than the torque is falling. Eventually the torque begins to fall so fast because at the high speed the engine struggle to move the fuel and air in and out. Finally to torque drops of so drastically that the power also begins to fall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T11:47:50.967" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2015-08-30T12:15:48.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the engine speed at which maximum fuel efficiency is obtained is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the faster you go in any given gear the worse the resultant fuel economy will be because it takes increasingly more power to overcome the vehicle's drag forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worsens because the power required to overcome drag forces on a vehicle at a constant speed is proportional to the cube of the speed, so to drive at twice the speed, you need 8 times the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this doesn't mean that fuel economy is best at the lowest RPM, because the engine's fuel efficiency at that point is low (resulting in low torque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, there will be a sweet spot where the efficiency is best closer to the lower end of the RPM scale which represents a best compromise between the torque generated and vehicle speed (drag forces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T12:24:32.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T12:24:32.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19697" CreationDate="2015-08-30T15:19:31.900" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this ends up being a lengthy answer. The answer to this question is more historical than anything else but first a little background. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a waste spark system an ignition coil has two spark plug outputs unlike every other system only having one. Each ignition coil is hooked up to two spark plugs. These spark plugs reside in two opposing cylinders, meaning the pistons move up and down at the same time. This puts one cylinder in the compression stroke and the other in the exhaust stroke at the same time. When the coil fires, both spark plugs spark at the same time, one in the cylinder with fuel and the other in the cylinder with exhaust. The spark in the cylinder with exhaust is called the waste spark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When waste spark first came out it was on the cutting edge. It was an excellent replacement for a distributor but ultimately it was a compromise. The biggest reason for waste spark is that it required less computational power. Automotive computers were in their infancy at the time and just couldn't crunch the numbers to fire a set of individual coils. This is evident from the fact that at the same time multi point fuel injection systems were all the rage. The injectors were fired all together like one big injector unlike sequential fuel injection that followed that fired the injectors individually in the firing order. This is further evident from the use of ignition modules like in GM vehicles and EDIS in Ford vehicles. These modules performed some of the needed calculations to relieve the PCM from having to do them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wear and tear on the spark plugs you mention is over exaggerated because the waste plug always fires in the exhaust stream which is full of hot ionized gas that is really easy to fire through. In reality the spark plug that is firing backwards (side electrode to center electrode) incurres the most wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most automotive manufacturers did eventually go to individual coils per cylinder, this is called coil on plug or coil near plug. It's a more advantageous system because dwell and timing can be controlled per individual cylinder. Even with the fact that they are so modern these systems still retain some the the roots of where they came from. For example in a Ford V8 engine with coil on plug, if the camshaft position sensor stops working the engine will use only the crankshaft position sensor and regress to using waste spark and firing the injectors in banks instead of sequentially. This is a drive me to a garage limp mode. Also some manufacturers still retain waste spark even on engine manufactured today. Take the GM Ecotec 4 cylinder engine for example, it still uses waste spark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally your two cylinder question. It really depends on the design of the engine. if the cylinders are opposing like Vtwin engine then yes they use waste spark, but also these engines normally use a magneto system which always fires the same spark plug in the exhaust, it can't help it. If it's a flat engine like in some motorcycles then it does not use that system because the stroke of the cylinders is opposite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. odd number cylinder engines (greater than one that is) are so rare that it would be more of an exception that a rule as to what ignition systems they used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T11:33:55.750" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T11:33:55.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19737" CreationDate="2015-08-30T16:42:22.513" Score="3" ViewCount="2476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey internet mechanics! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my alternator yesterday because it was faulty (pulling a charge from my battery and killing it every night while car was off). After installing the new alternator, my car started fine, I took it for a test drive and it drove fine. I let it sit for a couple hours after the test drive and I started it, everything seemed fine, then I hit the gas and my car drove as if I was in gear WITHOUT hitting the accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse is the same. I noticed my windows in my car rolled up much much more slowly (or not at all). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There Are no error lights on my dash (other than the airbag icon) and otherwise the engine seems to be running fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after letting it idle for about 10 minutes today, it started sputtering and near-stalling on me. A that point I lost the display on my stock radio (which was off and showing the current time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how to check error codes or anything. Does anyone have any ideas what the issue may be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really appreciate anyone taking the time to help me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T09:07:18.623" Title="2004 Nissan Altima with new alternator won't accelerate, but will rev in neutral. No power in car." Tags="|nissan|alternator|altima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T18:15:07.493" Score="1" ViewCount="3576" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was having trouble with my 96 accord it was sputtering and Hesitant replaced plugs and wires checked my EGR it was good then suddenly out of nowhere it stalled out on me while driving and now it won't start it acts like it wants to but it won't turn over I smacked the starter a few times this is the first time its happened&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11998" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T00:19:01.450" Title="96 honda accord wont start" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|vtec|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7873" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:35:22.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that at this point you've already figured it out, or gone another route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buuut for anybody that's still interested, this will work as described in this photo from above: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xrWn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xrWn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram From Above&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The negative outputs (blue and green) are simply connected to ground when the corresponding relay (unlock and lock) inside the remote start is activated. The unit labeled &quot;Factory Door Lock Module&quot; is either looking for a full negative signal, provided by the un-resisted blue wire, or a resistance (470 ohms in this case) from the green wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11877" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:35:22.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19721" CreationDate="2015-08-30T21:31:35.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the engine will rotate on a start attempt but will not start and run. On this model the most common cause of this symptom is failure of the ignition coil or ignition igniter. Located in the distributor on most models these parts make the spark that ends up at the spark plugs. Fuel supply problems are not common on this model. The next step in testing is to see the engine is getting spark and fuel, most likely it will be found to be a lack of spark problem.  Other less common failure are the main relay and ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T21:31:35.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17694" CreationDate="2015-08-30T21:58:53.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is very multi faceted because fuel economy is such a complex topic. When a car is starting first the computer check the coolant temperature sensor to see how hot the engine is. In the memory of the computer there is a look up table that dictates how much fuel it should add for a specific temperature. This table is very conservative and the computer will add more fuel than is actually needed just to make sure the engine starts. Then the computer will set the idle speed motor to the max value as per look up table as well this is why that flare up happens. Whey you start cranking the engine the computer starts adding fuel and spark, but it will take at least 3 to four revolutions before something happens and then at least a half second for everything to stabilize. A this point the computer takes control of the idle and brings the flare down. Finally, this is the point that is often forgotten, the computer has to bring the engine under closed loop control. In closed loop control the engine is most efficient as compared to open loop control that uses a similar table mentioned up above. The biggest obstacle to getting under closed loop control is the temperature of the oxygen sensor. If it is too cool it will not read and will start reading when it is sufficiently warm. Most vehicles are equipped with oxygen sensor warmers. With the age of your car i'm not sure if it has one and that would cause it to take longer to warm up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of this being said i'm not sure how much fuel you are actually saving. The extra fuel needed to start the car and to bring it under closed loop control may actually waste more fuel then just idling for that 30 seconds. Also your starter and ignition switch both have a rated life, an average number of times that they can preform their job. That amount may be 1000 times or 10000 times but turning the car on and off like you are is greatly increasing the rate at witch you will reach failure. Ultimately the extra wear you put on your engine components may out weigh the fuel savings that you might be getting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T10:03:06.430" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T10:03:06.430" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T23:40:11.323" Score="2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every Time I fuel up my car, I collect my odometer reading, fuel price, and gallons pumped.  A while ago I drove my car to almost empty and put 93 octane fuel in my tank, ran it to almost empty and did the same thing with 89 fuel and 87.  As predicted, the 93 had the best fuel economy, 89 second best and 87 was the lowest.  What could I do to determine which is more cost effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12001" LastEditorUserId="12001" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T03:14:06.277" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T03:14:06.277" Title="How can I determine if it is more cost effective to run premium fuel in my car?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19726" CreationDate="2015-08-31T00:34:19.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple fact is, it's all just mathematics. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I'm just throwing numbers out here, it's the mathematics which are important.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given: 20 gallon fuel tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using 93 octane fuel, get 20mpg, and it costs $2.40/gallon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 20 gal and 20mpg, that's a total of 400 miles travel distance. 20 gals of fuel at $2.40/gal, would equate to $48 for the tank. $48/400=&lt;strong&gt;$.12/mile&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using 87 octane fuel, get 18mpg, and it costs $2.00/gallon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 20 gal and 18mpg, that's a total of 360 miles travel distance. 20 gals of fuel at $2.00/gal, would equate to $40 for the tank. $40/360=&lt;strong&gt;$.11/mile&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this instance, the lower octane fuel would produce a better cost to run than premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;With that said:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As predicted, the 93 performed the best, 89 second best and 87 was the lowest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if this is actually true &lt;em&gt;unless your car specifies for the higher octane fuel&lt;/em&gt;. The rule of thumb states, &lt;strong&gt;use the lowest octane fuel you can run without knocking&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll usually get better fuel mileage by doing so. Do not equate octane to fuel mileage, because doing so is a false premise. It isn't just me who states this ... you can find it everywhere you loo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/octane.shtml&quot;&gt;FuelEconomy.gov&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It depends. For most vehicles, higher octane fuel may improve performance and gas mileage and reduce carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions by a few percent &lt;strong&gt;during severe duty operation&lt;/strong&gt;, such as towing a trailer or carrying heavy loads, especially in hot weather. &lt;strong&gt;However, under normal driving conditions, you may get little to no benefit.&lt;/strong&gt; (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/gasoline-octane-myths.html&quot;&gt;NICOClub.com&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Time and again, people will be told that high octane fuel burns cleaner or more completely, and that it will give them extra power and better fuel mileage than Regular octane gasoline because it contains more ‘energy.’ These blanket statements are simply not true. In fact, the octane rating for gasoline has nothing to do with the amount of power locked inside of it – it actually relates to just how much a fuel can be compressed before igniting. The higher the number, the less likely it is to ignite under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carsdirect.com/car-buying/will-a-higher-octane-level-increase-a-cars-fuel-mileage&quot;&gt;CarsDirect.com&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not only will the octane level not effect your gas mileage, but it does not even increase the amount of power your car puts out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: If you want to see more information, do a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=fuel+efficiency+vs+octane+rating&quot;&gt;Google search&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car does not specify the higher octane and you truly are getting the better gas mileage with 93 than with 87, it may be that in order to truly get honest numbers, you'd need to run more than one tank of each and utilize the final tank full as your base number for each octane level. The reason for this is, it take some adjustment time for the computer to actually run the engine at its best. By not giving it a chance to optimize for the fuel being used. You could speed up the process by pulling the battery cable for 30 minutes (or the PCM fuse, if so equipped) to allow the PCM to reset. This would bring the fuel map back to factory stock. This would get you your truest MPG figures in your experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T00:34:19.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2015-08-31T01:17:26.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this thread is a bit old, but Detroit Diesel and GM EMD (Electro-Motive Division) have many 2 stroke Diesels. &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The crankcases!&lt;/strong&gt; Well they aren't pressurized. How it works is different to a smaller 2 stroke engine.&#xA;Instead of the underside of the piston 'pushing' an air fuel charge up a transfer port, these engines have an air gallery around the cylinder liners. The cylinder block is machined to accept the cylinder sleeves. Immediately below the block deck is water and below that is an air gallery.&#xA;The cylinders have the conventional ring of ports and the piston acts as the intake valve in the conventional sense. &#xA;Pressurized air is supplied, usually but not always, by a Roots blower. Exhausting is effected by 2 or 4 valves in the cylinder head which are cam operated. &#xA;The fuel delivery is by unit injector (one injector per cylinder pressurized at the cylinder and not by a remote injector pump). The injector is pressurized by a rocker arm and cam driven by the exhaust camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detroit Diesel sizes are per cylinder i.e. 8V92 means V8 and 92 cu in per cylinder. 6-71 means inline 6, 71 cu in per cylinder.&#xA;The EMDs are similar 16V645 means V16 and 645 cu in per cylinder. &#xA;The EMDs are very common the world over particularly for electricity generation. They are used in tug boats and Diesel electric locomotives also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly some EMDs have a hybrid turbocharger. A large (about 6' high) centrifugal blower is powered by the crankshaft for starting and idling and then exhaust takes over. An overrun clutch allows free spooling of the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with all supercharged engines, as with normally aspirated engines, is power output is affected by altitude. The higher you go the less power you make. Turbocharged engines address this, so the rated power is maintained at all altitudes wheeled vehicles are likely to see.&#xA;I mention this because the blower on 2 stoke Diesels DOES NOT ACT AS A SUPERCHARGER. It is a positive displacement air pump. Detroit Diesel categorize all their unturbocharged 2 stroke Diesels as N. N means natural.&#xA;For example 8V92n as opposed to 8V92t. The Ns loose power with temperature and altitude increase, whereas the Ts maintain rated power because they have a turbo as well as the blower. &#xA;Turbo Detroit Diesel 2 strokes have both the blower and the turbo. Similar to the the EMD hybrid turbo principal, the Roots blower is required for starting and idling then the turbo takes over. Unfortunately the blower parasitic pumping loss (paid for in fuel and power loss) is still applied as there is no means of disconnecting the blower. They do have a bypass flap and this saves 30% of the blower load by bypassing air when the turbo is pumping, but the blower rotors are still turning. The Hybrid design was proposed for Detroit Diesel Silver Series but were dropped because of cost in favor of the bypass flap but as mentioned the rotors in the blower are still always turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12002" LastEditorUserId="9351" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T16:30:44.483" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T16:30:44.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T04:00:36.403" Score="5" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question relates to my 2012 Yamaha R6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the kickstand safety actuator because it was bugging me, I found it useless, and my habit is often to lift the kickstand when I start moving which I was prevented from doing by this device.  So when I removed it I traced the cable all the way to its next connection, pulled out the actuator plus the entire length of now useless cable which was about 4 ft long and just soldered the pins together because I like to keep things clean and leaving that useless cable in place would have irritated my obsessive compulsive personality.  Lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now about to replace my exup servo with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Motorsports-Yamaha-Exup-Servo-Eliminator.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;graves exup eliminator plug&lt;/a&gt; and am wondering if it's the same sort of thing.. Just making the connection. I wonder if rather than using the plug if I can just pull the whole cable out and solder the pins like I did with the other thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMlVD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMlVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;EXUP Servo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the plug is doing is creating a connection to fake the exup servo then I don't really need it and can do the same thing with solder. But if there is any sort of circuitry in the plug then I probably need it. I am not prepared to disassemble this plug I just spent $60 on to find out tho. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8Kp1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8Kp1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;EXUP Servo Eliminator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:16:26.227" Title="What does an EXUP servo and subsequently EXUP eliminator plug actually do?" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T04:03:22.883" Score="4" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a 2003 BMW X5. I just got the engine replace a couple days ago. I went to pick it up but because the shop was done installing the motor but now I have to deal with the other problems I had with the X5 before the motor went out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed O2 sensors before but never got to it once the truck ran hot and I had to replace the motor. So what it's doing now is start off running good, then about 15 minutes in it starts to run really rough, gets loud, check engine light comes, it starts to sputter then turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got it a diagnostic and a couple codes came up. O2 sensor bank one, failsafe engine, mass airflow sensor etc. I had the O2 sensors replaced and it's still doing the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody please help me I have already out over $6000 in the truck and I don't want to give up on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12003" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T08:27:07.037" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T18:07:46.160" Title="My BMW X5 won't stay running" Tags="|engine|bmw|o2-sensor|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T04:05:57.660" Score="5" ViewCount="2972" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2012 Yamaha R6 has about 12000 miles on it.  During that times I've had a couple rough accidents and I think the combination of those two factors it may be a good idea to check my valve clearance because I feel like I've lost some power.  Is this a good idea or am I more likely just going to discover I've wasted my time and it was unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do the majority of my own maintenance and have a buddy who runs a shop that I can call on for help whenever ai get in over my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:40:37.363" Title="When should I perform a valve head adjustment?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|yamaha|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19735" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:00:14.530" Score="10" ViewCount="17064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starter motors can be notorious for intermittent cranking issues towards the end of their useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it that some starter motors can be persuaded to crank the engine by hitting or tapping them? Does the hitting have an effect on the brushes or solenoids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the reasons behind why this method sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T13:03:17.433" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T21:25:32.747" Title="Failing starter motor - why does whacking it help?" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19732" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:06:04.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2007/lit-11626-20-43_r6_1310.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this User Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on Page 53 (section 6-3) a Valve Clearance check should be carried out every 26,600 miles (42,000km).  It also highlights any other maintenance that should be done and at what intervals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think checking is relatively simple (assuming you are handy with a toolkit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-how-guides/14272-how-valve-clearance-check-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found a site that gives this method of checking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; your valve clearances, see if you think its within your skillset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting access&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove plastics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drain oil (not required but less messy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drain radiator (not required but less messy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove Seat, tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove air box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove throttlebodies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove radiator (if drained) or move down out of the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Disconnect ignition wires leading to your coils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove ignition coils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the value cover bolts and then    remove the valve cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Checking Valve Clearance&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are now going to need to remove the rather large circle cover on the pickup coil cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To check the valves you are going to need a feeler gauge to measure&#xA;  the distance between the cam lobes and the valve bucket. Try to find&#xA;  one that is based on the metric system, in fact we are going to keep&#xA;  everything in metric; because trying to figure out .005in is equal to&#xA;  .127mm is a pain. Also have and sheet of paper out and a&#xA;  pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attach a 12mm socket the bolt that was behind the circle cover. With&#xA;  the ratchet turn clockwise to rotate the cams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: Never turn counter clockwise, this direction is against the&#xA;  natural rotation of the engine and can do something really really bad;&#xA;  I don’t know what exactly just don’t do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rotate the cams until the two cam lodes closest to you (cylinder #4)&#xA;  are facing up, and the value is completely closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With your feeler gauge check the valve clearance, by trying to cram&#xA;  that piece of metal in-between the cam lobe and the valve bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: you are measuring the exhaust side currently and the clearance&#xA;  should be 0.21mm ~ 0.30mm so start with a 0.25mm feeler and go from&#xA;  there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Find the largest feeler that will fit in-between. It is possible to&#xA;  cram a larger feeler then that of the clearance make sure you don’t do&#xA;  this! The feeler should just slide nicely in-between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now write down the measurement on you sheet of paper, make sure you&#xA;  write it down corresponding to each value and cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rotate the crank again, clockwise! Until you can check the valve&#xA;  clearance for cylinder #3. Repeat the clearance checking procedure&#xA;  then continue to cylinder # 2 and finally #1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once you’ve finished the exhaust side more over to the intake side and&#xA;  record the clearances there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T14:40:37.363" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:40:37.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19733" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:29:17.823" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can actually be the solenoid or the brushes which are at fault and take to getting a beating ... those masochistic machines! They just like it for some reason, lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most solenoids are built with a large copper washer in the end of them. When the solenoid is energized, the plunger is sucked into the solenoid via electromagnetic forces and pushes the copper washer into two large contacts. This allows current to flow to the starter motor itself, which spins the armature. If the washer or the two contacts get &amp;quot;bad spots&amp;quot; in them, contact will not be made and electricity doesn't flow. Rapping on the starter can move the washer slightly where good contact can be made and everything works correctly until the washer comes back around to the bad spot (the washer can spin freely inside it's solenoid home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the brushes inside the starter can suffer a similar fate. Since the brushes ride on the commutator, they wear out over time. Here are a couple of images of what they look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PA8Y2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PA8Y2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7LRk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7LRk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually in the its the commutator which will have a &amp;quot;bad spot&amp;quot; on it. This will cause the starter motor not to turn, because electricity cannot flow correctly. Banging on the starter can sometimes give enough of a jolt to the brushes where they will once again have the correct contact with the commutator and will allow electricity to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I once had a '91 Chevy Suburban which the starter died on it. In this application, banging on the starter didn't work. I took the starter apart to find that brushes, which were held onto swing arms with screws, had worn down to the screws (a couple of the screws were riding on the commutator). I replaced the brushes for about $4 and the starter worked like new again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-06-15T21:25:32.747" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T21:25:32.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19711" CreationDate="2015-08-31T12:57:01.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there are two circuits which can run the vehicle: one when starting; one when running. IIRC, the starting circuit provides full voltage to the coil which gives a bit more juice for extra power when starting. As soon as you allow the key to go back from start to run, this circuit is disconnected. This leaves the run circuit. If you don't have power through this circuit, the engine will quit right after you allow the key to go back to the run position. I don't have access to a wiring diagram at the moment, but I believe there should be two power leads going to you coil (as long as it's the old barrel style coil and not HEI). One of the leads will be coming from the starter (the full voltage) and the other will be the low voltage &quot;run&quot; lead. Check the power here with the key in the run position. If you don't get power there, you'll need to trace it back to figure out where the issue is. If you can find a wiring diagram, it will probably help you tremendously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T12:57:01.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19720" CreationDate="2015-08-31T13:10:23.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the alternator is not charging the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is needed to power your fuel injectors, spark plugs and other auxiliaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm this, use a multimeter to check the voltage of the battery with the car running. Judging by the description of the battery's condition, you may require a jump start to get the car running again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T13:10:23.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1337" CreationDate="2015-08-31T14:26:15.543" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOT 3 is strictly mineral based,all DOT 4 is a synthetic blend fluid.DOT 3 still exists largely due to its lower cost,being compatible with many vehicles still on the road.For the cost difference DOT 4 advantages out weigh the small amount of cost difference.The Castrol website posts the advantages to DOT 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)Maintains a higher boiling point than conventional brake fluids.&#xA;2.)Superior protection against chloride and zinc corrosion of braking system parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid that boils in a closed system will vaporize which acts&#xA;like air in the lines and stopping power will be greatly reduce&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12006" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:26:15.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19743" CreationDate="2015-08-31T15:43:14.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an VW 83 gti (mostly stock except for MSD system) that is having some troubles starting. Basically, when the engine is cold, it starts like a dream. I was previously having some very rough idle issues so I had my CIS system tuned, now it runs like a dream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have one small problem (which has been around for sometime now), when I drive her for more than 25+ minutes and then turn off the engine - I am SOL, the engine will not start when hot. It cranks but never &quot;catches&quot; that is then paired with the obvious wall of gas fumes. I then have to leave it for 3+ hours before I can start it again, although push starting it works every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy I bought it from told me he thought that the injector on cylinder 2 was sticking, but I am not sure, I brought it to a shop and they are talking about replacing the whole CIS if they can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for troubleshooting it or list of things to check for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for helping me save some cash,&#xA;John &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12011" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:57:13.307" Title="Sticking Injector or dead CIS?" Tags="|vw|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19742" CreationDate="2015-08-31T16:43:57.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Don't be hasty to replace the whole CIS!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the Bosch Fuel Injection &amp;amp; Engine Management book, here are a few things to investigate as possible causes for hot-start issues (inability to start when the engine is warm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cold-start valve leaking or operating continuously&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cold-start injector is designed to enrich the air-fuel mixture while the engine is cold by adding more fuel. This is supposed to be inactive when the engine is warm and is operated by the thermo-switch (or thermo time-switch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the valve is leaking or kept open by a faulty thermo-switch then this can explain why the engine refuses to run and results in the smell of petrol vapor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the information provided in the question, &lt;strong&gt;this would be my top suspect&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Insufficient residual fuel pressure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This covers several possibilities like leaky fuel injectors, fuel leaks in the fuel lines, faulty fuel pump check valve or faulty fuel pump accumulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tests for determining which part could be at fault, but those should really have separate questions of their own.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few other possibilities mentioned, but I'd first investigate 1 and 2 before considering them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Air-flow sensor plate rest position incorrect&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lambda control faulty&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T16:43:57.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19747" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:28:21.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 84 Ranger and I recently bought some new spark plugs for the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the old electrodes were huge compared to the brand new ones I just bought. Does the size of the electrode make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old plug had a way thicker electrode, similar to this cylindrical shape kinda like this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjOKP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjOKP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old plug, thicker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new NGK plug is thinner and has a tapered conical shape like this one, but pointier:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPryn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPryn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New plug, thinner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T20:41:53.123" Title="Does electrode size/shape matter?" Tags="|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19775" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:56:02.647" Score="3" ViewCount="30670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a new headlight bulb on just one side of my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now this happens when I try switching between high and low beam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;driver side is low beam, passenger is high beam&#xA;-switch-&#xA;driver side is high beam, passenger is low beam&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only guess is the new bulb has it's wires reversed in comparison to my old bulb. I'm guessing I'd have to buy another bulb just like my new one if that is the case, but I was wondering -- &lt;strong&gt;is there is some other way to make them both high beam at the same time/ both low beam at the same time?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable that gives the headlight power only fits in one way, so I don't think that's upsidedown. It is the correct type of bulb, but I think it may be a different brightness level (they are the same brand though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per my vehicle's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courtesyparts.com/pdf/1999-nissan-sentra.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manual for Nissan Sentra 1999&lt;/a&gt; - I bought a Sylvania 9004 bulb for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11648" LastEditorUserId="11648" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T18:58:30.633" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T02:54:49.993" Title="Headlights- One Side Low Beam, Other side High Beam" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19730" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:16:26.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EXUP servo is responsible for closing a valve in your exhaust to create a known amount of backpressure in the exhaust system to allow the engine to work in the way it was designed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have swapped your exhaust then chances are you have already eliminated the EXUP servo.  You can create one, a quick google search reveals you only need a capacitor or two and a few resistors to stop the engine check light illuminating.  Not using the kit and just soldering the pins together could cause your check engine light to illuminate or damage to your ECU if you wire a 12v feed into a 5v line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:16:26.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19744" CreationDate="2015-08-31T18:16:37.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some advantages to having a smaller, thinner electrode, in that it reduces something called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090447912000883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quenching effect&lt;/a&gt;. This is when the heat from the spark is partly absorbed by the electrodes, reducing the effectiveness of the spark. However for the same reason, thinner electrodes also can't conduct away heat as well, so they tend to erode faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thicker electrodes are probably using a copper-nickel composite for the electrode, while the thinner ones are probably using a metal with lower electrical conductivity but much higher strength and temperature resistance, such as platinum or iridium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These metals are also much more expensive, so there's another advantage to keeping them small, but extending the life expectancy can offset the cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, improvements in engine design, metallurgy and engineering techniques have made these kinds of plugs more practical recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned NGK plugs in particular, here's a document from NGK that explains the difference more clearly, with some illustrations. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK/DYK_Evolution%20of%20Plugs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK/DYK_Evolution%20of%20Plugs.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="7225" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T18:29:51.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:29:51.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19749" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:56:00.950" Score="2" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLfVd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLfVd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the battery and let the car sit for a long time since I was out of town. The car wont start now. I hear a clicking noise when I start the car. I opened the hood and I hear the clicking noise from the part shown in the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me here please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12014" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T21:25:22.863" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T21:25:22.863" Title="Hyundai Elantra 2001 wont start. Hear sound from the top of the engine when I turn the key on" Tags="|starting|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19748" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:13:19.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your battery voltage? I bet if you've let it sit for a while, the battery is dead. Especially true if it's the original Hyundai battery. They are about the weakest part on the car. The part you are showing above is the cruise control module - the part which keeps you at speed (cable should be attached to the throttle somehow). If the battery is low, various parts may be making noise due to the computer really not knowing what to do with the severe low voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T21:13:19.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19664" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:29:38.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unscrew the spark plug, and touch the edge of the plug where the thread is to the metal engine block somewhere near where the plug is threaded into the engine. Make sure you don't have gas fumes everywhere. Hold on to the plug via the insulated wire, so you don't get shocked. Make sure to keep the plug threads touching the engine, and the center electrode from touching anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the engine over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;It sparks.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have spark there are two potential options I have come across. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(less likely) Your timing is totally screwed up. This is unlikely and I have only seen it on higher strung 250cc mx engines that may have snapped the key off the timing wheel and spun on the crank. This can cause it to run terribly or not at all. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(most likely) Your fueling is not functioning. From what I gather your motorcycle has a carburetor. When you turn the bike over a bunch and pull the plug out, is it wet with fuel? If not, you need to walk through the fuel system and determine if there are any blockages. Most of the time the carb's float has gotten stuck and will no longer allow fuel into the bowl. This will prevent any gas from getting into your new bike's engine, preventing it from turning over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;It doesn't spark.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have spark, it could very well be the kickstand shutoff switch. This mysterious and frustrating malady has struck myself and friends many times. On nearly any new moto sold there is a small switch that detects if the kickstand is up or down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it &lt;em&gt;thinks&lt;/em&gt; the kickstand is down, you will get zero spark. If it's actually down is a whole different issue. I have seen these switches fail on just about every kind of motorcycle. Many people cut the switch off and hardwire it to always be &quot;up&quot; so they don't get stranded in the woods / desert. I don't just because I'm forgetful and it has saved me at least once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12015" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T21:29:38.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19763" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:54:42.810" Score="6" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started driving a motorcycle to work (60 km/day). I have a Honda XR125L. Today I had an accident. I was driving at 10-20 mph and wanted to break for cars that were standing still. I had about 15 meters to break so it was not an emergency maneuver. As soon as I used the front break my front wheel slipped out and I hit a parked car head first. I am perfectly fine given the low speed but I am a bit shaken up. However, I want to equip my bike as good as I can to prevent this from happening again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told that my tyres are not decent for daily driving, let alone wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres on the bike at this moment are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/ww/en/motorcycle/sheet/mt_60.html&quot;&gt;Pirelli MT60&lt;/a&gt; with a bit of wear though since this bike is a second hand one. Since I am not going to drive off-road any time soon I was thinking about buying tyres that are suited for road use and have better performance in wet conditions. However, I am finding it hard to find good tyres that are suited for wet conditions. So my question is, is there such a thing as rain tyres for motorcycles? I have tyres for my car that are built for rain (Uniroyal RainExpert) specifically. I was hoping to find something similar for a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12016" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T14:01:48.610" Title="Rain tyres for motorcyles" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19764" CreationDate="2015-08-31T23:11:07.457" Score="2" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a recent road trip we wanted to have a laptop to play movies while on the road. We brought an Apple MacBook Air, a power inverter (to plug in the laptop's charger into the cigarette lighter), and a 3.5mm audio cable to connect the laptop's audio out to the car's audio in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We noticed that when we played a movie (and thus audio), this &quot;cycle&quot; created a lot of noise in the car that nearly drowned out the movie's own audio. You could hear the movie, but only just. You had to crank the volume way, way up to hear much (but then the noise was too loud as well). The noise wasn't &quot;static&quot; noise per se - more like a deep hum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when we unplugged the power inverter, the audio played normally!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What was it about this cycle that caused this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And how can I avoid this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car: 2014 BMW 3-Series&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power inverter: Plugs into the car's cigarette lighter (in the center console) and has a 110-120V plug (and some other unused connectors, such as USB, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laptop: Apple MacBook Air (2012 probably)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Audio cable: Normal male-to-male 3.5mm cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12018" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T10:29:41.443" Title="Audio noise when laptop connected to power inverter and the car's 3.5mm audio jack" Tags="|audio|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2015-09-01T00:31:40.640" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the only way to really succesfully/quickly charge from a running engine is to connect a battery charger that runs off 12v- safely and correctly directly off the alternator and run that to the battery terminals so that the charger pushes constant amps to the battery irrespective of any current draw. this will force alternator to work above and beyond the draw from the cars electrical system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DONT DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW ABOUT ELECTRICS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12019" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T00:31:40.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6319" CreationDate="2015-09-01T01:31:37.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reset the ECU. It has learned to work in the conditions of a vacuum leak(busted vacuum line). From experience in working on my family's 01 v6 explorer sport, 91 bronco, and 2001 f150, the vacuum system is all one connected system. So, a broken vacu line can cause an overall vacuum issue. I don't know like with my jeep there is an ECU purge procedure,but generally disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery overnight or at least for a few hours will do the trick to purge the adaptive memory. Jeeps do a 50-warm up cycle learning period, don't know on fords. So, if it fixes your issue, give it a week or so before  judging whether your issues are totally resolved or not. If it comes back again, replace all your plugs and wires. Newer fords seem very sensitive to vacuum leaks as my dad's v6 explorer sport was getting less than 10mpg and had poor acceleration as well until I reconnected the hose for the heater core coolant valve which was dry and popping off the fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12020" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T01:31:37.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19534" CreationDate="2015-09-01T02:23:39.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem persist and I remove the door card yesterday. I figured that the reason is the mis-aligned rod connected to manual lever used to open the door from the inside. It somehow gotten loose from the guide and blocks the spring/switch (it looks like a spring) connected to the actuator. So there is no way for the actuator to work on-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also figured that water ingression doesn't have something to do with it as the actuator and electrical parts are far from the water entry and water ways inside. The key works mechanically with a rod connected to the actuator and there is no way the water could actually get to the switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also inspected the wires and some just needed re-harnessing and all is good with no abrasion or exposed wire. Actuator working ok as well. I don't think it can easily broke as it looks really solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all who responded. I posted this as answer in case someone experienced the same. Btw, model is Mazda 323F 2k model. My doors are not keyless entry and not power window so removing the door card is quite easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T02:23:39.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T02:45:24.423" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to determine how old the tires on my car are. I understand there is an age code on each tire. But what if the age code is on the inner side? Is there some code I can use on both sides of the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12021" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T08:55:33.323" Title="Determine Tire Age" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19756" CreationDate="2015-09-01T03:47:41.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The age code is only on one sidewall. There is no requirement that it be installed facing out. I have used a mirror to read the code when installed on inside. Tirerack.com has a good article on how to interpret the codes. There is no regulation concerning how many years should be left on a vehicle in the US. Some say 6 yrs max other say 10 years. I have heard that the UK has a 6 year max installed life limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T03:47:41.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T06:31:05.913" Score="17" ViewCount="2437" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the ambiguity here.. I'm not sure what the issue is with my bike.  I have a bunch of symptoms and my hypothesis is that it's a cascading failure and I'm just seeing a bunch of effects down the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here goes:&#xA;I recently bought the bike, the previous owner mentioned that they were concerned with a fuel line and that they had replaced the stator/rectifier recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost every time I rode the bike the battery would die.  It was an old battery so I replaced it today with a lithium battery, checked the voltage before the ride (13.22V), after about an hour of riding (13.01V) and again when I got home (13.16V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seeing it dip from .22 to .01, I worried that it wasn't charging correctly and rode at higher RPM - 7k RPM or so as opposed to 3-6k RPM (the bike is LOUD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that may have helped it charge but that does seem like it should be charging at lower RPM - the previous owner said 3k RPM should be enough for it to charge.  When the bike is off if I check the voltage it's not dropping by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After riding for about an hour, the bike starts behaving oddly.  When coming to a stop, the RPM tends to roam a bit, like it's struggling to breathe.  Also, starting from that stop tends to be difficult, feels like a slipping clutch and I have to really give 'er to get it going, but once it's going it's fine.  This is usually followed by a dying battery if I don't get home quickly.  Also when this behaviour starts, if I shut the bike down and let it sit for 15 minutes or so, everything goes back to normal and it seems fine.  I don't think it's related to temperature directly, although maybe when the temp goes up and the fans kick on there's more power draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing: it doesn't feel like a 1000cc bike.  It feels more like a 600, but when I first fire it up there's plenty of power and it seems to dissipate as a ride.  I recently went for a longer ride and at some point it sounded like only two cylinders were firing, and I could barely keep up with my buddy's old CBR 600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: coils, CDI, stator/rectifier/regulator, fuel/air?  I really don't know where to begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1: okay, I checked all three phases of the stator, all output ~12-15VAC (I don't remember exactly) at idle, and ~50VAC at 5k RPM. The connector is discoloured though (slight browning around the contacts). I plugged it back in, pulled the headlight fuse to reduce load and restarted the bike to find the battery charging at idle (~1900rpm). I got the headlight fuse back in, let the bike warm up to 105C and heard the fan kick on, and even with all of that the battery still was able to hold exactly 13.56VDC.&#xA;So in other words, I'm back to square 1. Either it was a connector issue and messing around with it cleared it up, or this condition only comes up after riding for like 1-2 hours, which I suspect since it always seems to start strong. What do I need to look at next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: I've ridden a bunch today.  I checked voltage before and after cold start, then at each stop right before getting back on to ride I'm checking the voltage before/after starting.  Here's the results.  The bike still feels under-powered but I think that's a separate issue - I think the charging issue is resolved and for now I'm going to attribute it to a connection issue that I inadvertently fixed by pulling things apart and putting them back together.  These voltage readings seem quite healthy.. closing the question, I'll open a new one later if it continues to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;13.21 cold, pre-start&#xA;13.50 cold idle&#xA;13.26 stop 1 cold&#xA;13.45 stop 1 idle @ 88˚C&#xA;13.4x stop 2 cold&#xA;13.5x stop 2 start @ ?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 3:&#xA;Thought everything was fine, but my last stop of the day was a coffee shop for two hours or so. Come back out and... bike doesn't start. 9.4v on the batt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jump start, go home, pull it apart and test the R/R and stator again. Everything appears fine except the connector where the stator meets the R/R is getting really hot. Some Fireblade owners say is best to solder the wires rather than use the connector. New stator on the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastEditorUserId="1396" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T16:59:22.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:49:17.237" Title="'00 Honda CBR929RR - Unknown issue, help!" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|cbr929rr|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19759" CreationDate="2015-09-01T08:11:57.567" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It sounds like the root cause of your woes is a battery that is not getting properly charged at lower speeds.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is a 14 V charging system, the battery voltage should be close to 14 V while the bike is running. If it isn't, the battery will deplete and affect components that rely on it like the fuel injectors and coils, which would go quite some way in explaining why it feels like the engine is &quot;coughing&quot; or struggling to breathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a faulty rectifier&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this has been replaced recently it may be indicative that the problem lies elsewhere (in other words, an unsuccessful fix)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a dirty connection&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dirty terminal/connection on the charging cable between the alternator and battery can reduce the voltage seen by the battery. Cleaning up the relevant terminals/connections may be all that is required here. This could also be an issue due to oxidation of the clamp on the battery terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T08:42:07.867" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T08:42:07.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19756" CreationDate="2015-09-01T08:55:33.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/16023/675&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on  how to decode the age of a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding how to read the code if it is on the inside of the wheel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19758/675&quot;&gt;Fred Wilson's answer&lt;/a&gt; should be adequate: use a small mirror and flashlight to locate the code and determine the age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing which I have noticed is that some tire manufacturers (especially the less-reputable ones) will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; print the manufacturing code on the tire, especially if there is no local legislation mandating them to do so. This is why it is a good idea to insist on seeing the code at the time of purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T08:55:33.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19720" CreationDate="2015-09-01T09:07:18.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To follow on from Zaid's answer, I suspect the old alternator trashed the battery - they really don't like repeated deep discharges, so you might well find you need a new battery too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T09:07:18.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19751" CreationDate="2015-09-01T09:41:41.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;sort of&quot;. Yes you can get dedicated &quot;wets&quot; which are race tyres for wet tracks. They are soft and heavily grooved but are not a practical solution for daily use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I think this is really a matter of learning the limitations of your tyres in different conditions and riding to the conditions. There isn't a magic tyre that will make you safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres you have should be fine. In fact i would say that you will have a hard time finding a better tyre for your bike. Maybe an MT90. You might get a 5% improvement,  but not a 50% improvement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However even the best tyres will struggle if there is oil, diesel or road film on the surface. If it hasn't rained for a long time, roads can be very slippery when it has just rained a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible with a bit of practice and /or training to brake safely/heavily in the wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to think about is your position on the road. Avoid the center line where oil drops from cars. Especially near intersections. Watch out for shiny bits and worn asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start braking early. Use both brakes together. As you begin, apply the brakes gently, and allow the bikes weight to transfer to the front wheel. Once you have more weight on the front wheel you can start to apply more front brake by gently increasing the pressure on the brake lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a flat and reasonable surface you should be able to stop in a similar distance as you would just riding normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common mistake I've seen is riders grabbing the front brake quickly. The sudden braking is just strong enough to break traction and lock the front wheel. Then they lose the front. I've even seen one person lock the front while still holding the throttle open (it didn't end well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T10:14:26.617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T10:14:26.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19752" CreationDate="2015-09-01T10:29:41.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is probably a ground loop. This means that the ground path from the laptop to radio has less resistance than the ground path from the laptop to the cigarette liter. This causes the laptop to try and ground through the audio cord which causes the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by a bad/poor inverter or by a bad/poor power supply. The suggested solution is a ground loop isloator. Something like this our similar would work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151561106209?ul_noapp=true&amp;amp;chn=ps&amp;amp;lpid=82&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151561106209?ul_noapp=true&amp;amp;chn=ps&amp;amp;lpid=82&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T10:29:41.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24092" CreationDate="2015-09-01T12:50:18.010" Score="5" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 98 Mazda 626 2L and need to flush the atx fluid, it's really dirty brownish red, but not burnt and I didn't notice any particles in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the car has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://atxprobes.com/cd4e.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CD4E tranny&lt;/a&gt; ( &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;it turns out to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://atxprobes.com/4eat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GF4A-EL&lt;/a&gt; actually, but I don't think that matters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; ), and I've heard they have internal filters which can't be changed without dropping and disassembling the tranny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2640256/Re:_Best_fluid_for_partial_dra#Post2640256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I came across this procedure&lt;/a&gt; for flushing the fluid, and wanted to know if it's safe.  I'm worried that running the transmission with the inlet line disconnect could damage something due to lack of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools required: pliers, 10mm socket, milk jug, transmission fluid funnel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts required: 1 case of MERCON transmission fluid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional: get a new 1/2&amp;quot; screw-down hose clamp to replace the cheap factory hose clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive car up on ramps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the drivers-side black plastic underbelly pan (held on with several 10mm bolts). This exposes the 2 hoses running to the&#xA;transmission from the transmission cooler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 2 black rubber hoses running from the external transmission cooler in the front of the car. Each one attaches to a&#xA;metal tube that attaches to fittings on the transmission.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube attached to the front of the transmission is the outlet (i.e. fluid is discharged from the transmission here).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fitting in the rear of the transmission (and also closest to the front wheel) is the inlet (i.e. fluid enters the transmission&#xA;here).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To flush the transmission and the external cooler, you need to disconnect the rubber hose from the metal pipe that connects to the&#xA;rear of the transmission (the inlet).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identify the transmission inlet hose, and remove the hose clamp with pliers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the rubber hose off of the metal pipe. Some fluid may come out, but there won't be much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The idea of a transmission fluid flush is to use the transmission's own pump to pump out old fluid, and then replace it with new fluid. I&#xA;used a 1-gallon milk jug to collect the old fluid, and a helper to&#xA;start and stop the car's engine on my command.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position milk jug under disconnected inlet hose, and have helper start engine. Fluid will pour out of the inlet hose into the milk jug.&#xA;Stop the engine when approx 2 quarts have come out (the milk jug is&#xA;1/2 full). This will take 15-20 seconds or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 2 quarts of new transmission fluid into the dipstick tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the transmission fluid coming out is the same color as the new fluid. For me, it took a full case (12 quarts)&#xA;of fluid. At least one time during step 4, have the helper shift the&#xA;transmission into R and D while the engine is running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When all fluid has been replaced, reconnect the rubber hose onto the metal pipe and install a new screw-type hose clamp (the factory clamps&#xA;are junk).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that I could connect a second hose to the other side and while old fluid is draining, stick the second hose in a jug of new fluid and let it be sucked up while the old fluid is draining out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to drop the pan and change the filter, how would I modify this procedure so that I don't waste too much fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T05:28:55.507" Title="GF4A-EL Transmission Flush" Tags="|automatic-transmission|servicing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T13:00:26.603" Score="2" ViewCount="1718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daughter was driving home last night from work and noticed &quot;it was very dark&quot; on the way. Turns out low beams won't come on at all. High beams, parking, tail, turn signal and flashers all fine... just low beams won't come on.  Pulled and checked all related fuses, they were fine, good continunity on low beam bulbs as well. I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point -- any ideas? Would prefer to avoid the shop if possible, she drives to work and school every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12026" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T13:35:06.533" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T13:56:42.550" Title="Daughter's 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 SE - No Low Beams - High Beams Fine" Tags="|electrical|nissan|headlight|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16936" CreationDate="2015-09-01T13:01:49.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel system and throttle body were dirty. I flushed Seafoam through via the oil, gas tank, and vacuum line. I also cleaned the throttle body, and the engine runs/idles perfectly clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T13:01:49.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14707" CreationDate="2015-09-01T13:07:19.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm at 162,000 and the abs/tc lights are on constantly. I scanned the codes and there's a fault in the right front wheel speed circuit. I played around with the wires and the lights went out. My understanding is that there's a recall out for the wiring harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T13:07:19.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19767" CreationDate="2015-09-01T13:56:42.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really looks like it's down to the switch, if the high beams work normally (Not just using flash to pass) and both low beams quit at the same time, and you are positive the bulbs are good. The one thing that can fail that would take out both low beams is the switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything in yellow below is good based on your description of what works. The pink highlight is the rest of the low beam circuit so it has have failed in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTGCu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTGCu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T13:56:42.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T14:11:20.130" Score="4" ViewCount="3958" Body="&lt;p&gt;KIA replaced my front rotors and brake pads Aug 2014.  One year later my brakes were not functioning well and KIA said the right front rotor was grooved because of rust and should be replaced, adding I should do both to keep them even and change pads, which were hardly worn.  Are they ripping me off?  My car sits outside in a plastic temple garage.  I live in 4 seasons - winter lots of snow, summer can be very humid for a couple of weeks.  I do not drive my car often as I'm retired.  Can non-use speed up rusting of rotors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12027" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T06:49:31.867" Title="Why did front rotors and brake pads have to be replaced after one year?" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T15:08:20.157" Score="0" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just searching for an answer to find how the idle speed of an engine is decided and who makes that decision. Is it the engine designer alone or is it based on the inputs from all the vehicle components (e.g. transmission, engine accessories including the engine)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I searched, the more I got confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="hussain" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:10:11.953" Title="Who decides Idle engine rpm and how?" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-01T18:27:43.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19772" CreationDate="2015-09-01T16:10:11.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine has to be able to sustain operation smoothly (enough power to run itself and the gadgets you may have attached to it).  It should be in a reasonable range for the accessories themselves at normal load: too low and the alternator won't charge, so you would run the battery down while idling, too low and you won't get enough oil pressure.  Now, accessories can be made to run lower, but then you sacrifice the high RPM ability, which then causes a reduction in potential horsepower.  It's all a big balancing act that usually ends up at a 750 RPM range idle for a typical car, sometimes a bit lower for a big engine, and sometimes up to about double that for small engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:10:11.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19776" CreationDate="2015-09-01T17:39:34.940" Score="7" ViewCount="41108" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a lot of conflicting answers on what you're supposed to do with dielectric grease. The instructions on the grease I bought says to squeeze it into the boot, but everywhere I've read online says to only put a TINY bit  on the porcelain since it's non-conductive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I squeezed a decent amount of dielectric grease into my spark plug boots and now I am wondering if it could have an effect on the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a definitive answer on what you're actually supposed to do with dielectric grease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T11:50:32.170" Title="What do you do with dielectric grease on spark plugs?" Tags="|ignition|sparkplugs|grease|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19745" CreationDate="2015-09-01T18:10:51.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some headlight 'variants' are the same bulb, with the same or a similar connector, but different wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;9004 and 9007&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65XF7.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65XF7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;9004 vs 9007&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4656 and H4&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SC2Oh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SC2Oh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4656 vs H4&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you asked, you absolutely can fix it. There are locking tabs on the terminals in the connectors, you can insert a small, flat pick (there are specific tools for doing so), depin the connector, and repin it into the configuration you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT67n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT67n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Terminal Removal Tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, however, the more appropriate solution is to use matching headlight pairs. By choosing similar wattage 9004/9007, you now get to choose whether your 'brights' are stalk forward, or stalk rearward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T18:10:51.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19774" CreationDate="2015-09-01T18:23:08.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; You've hurt nothing by putting more than a little bit of grease in the boot ... don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dielectric grease serves two purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent electrical leakage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the boot from sticking to the porcelain of the spark plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's specific design is to help ensure arcing does not occur. It also helps keep water/moisture out of the boot as well, which can cause electrical leakage and ultimately arcing. Remember that direct current (what we find in cars) will &lt;em&gt;find&lt;/em&gt; the easiest route to ground. Ignition voltage ranging around 40k-50k vdc can be considered &lt;em&gt;high voltage&lt;/em&gt;. Putting the extra grease in the boot has only made it so you shouldn't have either of the issues which dielectric grease is meant to prevent. If it squishes out from the boot as you push it on, you've probably used too much. A little dab may only prevent the boot from sticking, but will it actually prevent electrical leakage? Probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T21:24:06.003" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T21:24:06.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18170" CreationDate="2015-09-01T18:31:28.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windshield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Windshield&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - mandatory (windscreen in the U.K.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarter_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vent Windows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, hinge outward from the front doors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front Windows&lt;/strong&gt; - mandatory windows in the front (or only) doors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunroof&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunroof / Moonroof&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, in roof. Can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motortrend.com/features/mt_hot_list/1504_vehicles_offering_panoramic_sunroofs_for_less_than_50000/viewall.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;panoramic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear Windows&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, in rear doors (if applicable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunroof&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rear Sunroof / Moonroof&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, secondary window in roof (found in some Tesla Model S, MINI Cooper, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarter_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quarter Glass / Valence Windows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, stationary or vented windows in doors or behind the doors, on the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opera_window&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Opera Windows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - rare in modern vehicles, optional stationary porthole windows behind the rear doors, on the sides. Typically found in 1970s luxury vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hatch Glass / Rear Window / Rear Windshield / Back Windshield&lt;/strong&gt; - optional, rear facing window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T18:31:28.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8160" CreationDate="2015-09-01T18:50:43.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same thing actually happened again a year later. It was the same situation where the alternator wasn't putting out enough voltage to charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a mechanic and they noticed that the wire(s) connected to the alternator were burnt. After replacing the wires, everything worked like normal again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting two and two together, both times it happened after making long trips to visit family 10+ hours away, so the wires must have gotten too hot from the car being driven all day, with a GPS plugged into the cigarette port, and eventually burnt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having the wires replaced the car lasted long enough for the transmission to start going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4207" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T18:50:43.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="54753" CreationDate="2015-09-01T21:57:45.023" Score="5" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of my studs are crossthreaded from the last mechanic who replaced my tires and wasn't paying attention to his impact wrench.  The problem is, there is no space to get the new studs in, and I had to cut the old ones out.  Is there any way to replace them without removing the whole tire assembly and potentially messing up the seal and ball bearings inside? (Brakes and everything else necessary to normally replace studs has already been removed. The problem is that there isn't enough space  between the opening and the more complicated parts of the tire assembly, and there isn't a groove like there usually is for replacing studs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12036" LastEditorUserId="12036" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:07:34.537" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T17:59:39.203" Title="replacing wheel studs on a 92 Buick century" Tags="|buick|century|wheel-lugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:01:02.000" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Corvette wipers comes on while in the off position. I changed the motor and the switch. Is there a relay some where? What should I do next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12038" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T22:05:41.537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T22:22:48.470" Title="Wipers come on in the off position" Tags="|chevrolet|windshield-wipers|corvette|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:10:39.267" Score="2" ViewCount="2592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently had to rearrange my valve lifters in order to tune to an optimal clearance between cams and lifters, which on my Tacoma is 0.15-0.25 mm for the intake and 0.29-0.39 mm for the exhaust valves.  I had performed multiple rounds of measurement meticulously and had to order some new lifters as some valves were so much out of the range that none of the existing lifters (which come in different gauges) would close the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I did it because I had my cylinder heads open and had easy access.  My question is, how does an engine that has loose or tight valves manifest the anomaly?  What are some of the symptoms by which you'd know that you need to tune your valve clearances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:08:38.153" Title="Symptoms of valve adjustment necessity" Tags="|valve|cylinder-head|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19785" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:22:48.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is probably your Wiper Motor Pulse Board Module (ACDELCO pn 12367295). This will control the behavior of your wipers. If any of the board has corrosion or a bad part on it, weird things can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just replaced the wiper motor, this should have been included with it. It may be that you got a bad one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T22:22:48.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19791" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:39:02.843" Score="2" ViewCount="3666" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Model 323f Mazda AT, 1.6L suddenly has problem on power steering. Yesterday morning, I started the engine and after half a minute started driving slowly. While backing and doing the curves, the steering wheel becomes hard (somewhat getting stuck). I don't think it is loosing power. I have experienced loosing power and I can still turn the steering wheel just harder than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This however is different. &lt;em&gt;It is like getting stuck intermittently (very short intervals) and then works again&lt;/em&gt;. I tried driving slowly again to pick up more RPM and power steering seems back to normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I arrived at the office and do the parking, I experienced the same issue while doing the curves and while backing (reverse gear). I check the power steering oil and the level is ok. I observe no leaks as well. No unfamiliar sound anywhere as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go to a mechanic, do you guys have any idea what might be causing this? I just bought this car 3 months ago so I have no idea of the history. But in the 3 months driving it, this is the first time I've experienced this. It's like it is happening on low RPM only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T00:17:13.497" Title="Intermittently loss power steering on low RPM" Tags="|mazda|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:45:05.377" Score="4" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Explorer/v8/4wd/bauer edition.  When I take off from a stop, there is a slight lag and then the vehicle over accelerates (sort of &quot;jumps&quot; off the line).  If I gradually apply the accelerator, get the vehicle rolling slightly (maybe 5mph), it seems to do this less but it is still very touchy the first say 5-10% of the throttle from start. I took it to the transmission shop, he says it is not the transmission (he has seen the same issue with another explorer - he thinks it's the throttle control mechanism).  The vehicle runs and shifts perfectly at all speeds, conditions, other than starting from a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12039" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T00:02:58.570" Title="2004 Ford Explorer accelerates too quickly from idle" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|acceleration|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9584" CreationDate="2015-09-01T23:56:05.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a rhythmic noise which repeats regularly, but slows down as the car slows down, first I'd look for a warped disc or drum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T23:56:05.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19788" CreationDate="2015-09-02T00:17:13.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering you are saying the fluid level is fine, it's likely one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The serpentine belt is slipping during lower rpm operation. At lower rpm is when there is the most demand put on the pump. If the belt is old and worn or if the idler pulley is not keeping up with where it should be, the belt could slip. Also, if there is any oil or contaminants on the belt, you might see slippage there as well. (most likely, IMHO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering pump is dieing and will need replacement soon. As pumps get older, they get worn out. I get tired sometimes, too ;-) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T00:17:13.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19783" CreationDate="2015-09-02T00:19:55.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this on the front or the back? Also, did you try taking the brake rotor off of the hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case (front or back), you should be able to remove the caliper, brake pads, and rotor off of the hub. When you get down this deep, there should be plenty of room to get the studs out and replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aD7B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aD7B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpAKz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpAKz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you cannot get the studs out, you'll need to take the hub assembly off from the steering knuckle. To do that, there is the bit nut which is used to keep the drive axle in place on the front (left image). Then there are three bolts which hold it onto the steering knuckle (right image). Be careful when pulling the hub out as you can damage the wheel bearing and would need to replace the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T18:15:25.097" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T18:15:25.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T01:01:03.497" Score="1" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the other day I was driving and my timing belt broke I tried to turn the key a few times then tore off the valve cover and noticed that the timing belt was broken people have told me the engine might be junk now how do I check &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11998" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:01:31.237" Title="timing belt 96 honda accord vtec" Tags="|honda|timing-belt|motors|camshaft|vtec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T03:52:05.730" Score="2" ViewCount="4378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked my OBD2 sensor and it shows on DTC that message. Along with P0171 system too lean on my Mazda 3. I put in an injen intake and that was 3 years ago. The check engine light came on 3 months after installing the new cold air intake. Any idea on what error MIL : off Spark ignition means? Is it that i need to replace the spark plugs? I mean I have an idea what it might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12041" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T20:37:58.117" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T04:02:38.463" Title="Error MIL: off Spark ignition" Tags="|obd-ii|p0171|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19794" CreationDate="2015-09-02T06:26:02.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the valve adjustment on all the valves. If they are at or near specification then the engine will be Ok. If it is a four cylinder engine chances are good that it will not have bent any of the valves and will therefore run normally after a new timing belt is installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T06:26:02.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T07:12:56.453" Score="1" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past couple of months, I've been having trouble filling my gas tank. I have a 2004 civic Honda, which has a 52-liter tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I buy gas, the pump clicks off after dispensing only two or three gallons. Knowing the tank can't possibly be full, I keep working on filling the tank, at a rate of less than a gallon per click, until 10-12 (possibly more) gallons later I see gas come out of the tube. (There's no other way to work out when my tank's full as I have no way of determining how much fuel is in the tank to begin with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I only experienced this issue at one particular gas station. Now, it happens everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is annoying for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a long time to fill my tank, and I risk wasting gas if I overfill the tank.&#xA;I like to keep track of my mileage, but I can't do so if I don't know how much gas is being used. I don't really want to make gas overflowing be the point from which I measure.&#xA;What might be going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12044" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T10:58:36.913" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:58:36.913" Title="fuel tank always be full at 90%" Tags="|honda|civic|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19800" CreationDate="2015-09-02T08:23:41.800" Score="2" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking for specifications of a car/vehicle we come across two parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horse Power/Pferdestärke (PS) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power to weight Ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while considering any vehicle , which one of the above should I take into my mind as a relative measurement of performance not considering other aspects such as forced induction or handling or aerodynamics etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually see that vehicle manufacturers like to give out Raw HP figures which are massive but the car like for example most Bentleys weigh more than 2 tons.It will never be as fast as a Nissan GTR or a Ferrari 458. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which figure would be best for performance(Again not considering handling or aerodynamics or any other fact) and why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question is Why do manufactures specify power of vehicle while selling it for example in websites or pamphlets if it &#xA;does not ascertain anything! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:44:06.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T23:44:06.267" Title="Which is better, Power to Weight Ratio or Horsepower" Tags="|performance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19799" CreationDate="2015-09-02T09:59:27.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends why you are comparing them.  If you are playing top trumps in the pub then BHP (PS) is a good measure of an engines peak output.  However, this doesn't tell the whole story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power to weight ratio is a good measure of how an actual vehicle will perform but again, it doesn't tell the whole story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, if you are looking to compare just one engine against another, peak power is one measure you can apply.  If you are comparing one vehicle against another, power to weight ratio is a better measure but is still flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all very much depends on what you are comparing vehicles for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to purely measurable engine data, you have another number which may give you more information about how tractable an engine will be; Torque, typically measured in Netwon Meters or Foot Pounds.  In simple terms, peek power is how fast you will hit the wall but torque is how far you will carry the wall with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these figures in isolation, even if you know the point in the rev band which each occors still doesn't tell you the full story.  For that you need to look at the actual power graph.  An engine with lots of volume under the graph will be more tractable.  For example, an engine which makes 80% of it's peak power at 1500 RPM and continues delivering at least that number up until the red line will be far more tractable than an engine that delivers more peak power but doesn't deliver any appreciable power until say 5500 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to a specific car, you can't simply compare like for like vehicles with different engines because you still have to consider gearbox radtios, final drive ratio, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also can't use power to weight as an absolute measure because you also have to consider weight distribution, powered wheels and handling characteristics such as centre of gravity, suspension articulation, track, camber, yaw angles, etc, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to compare two cars, your best indicator is lap time on a known track with the same driver on the same day with the same weather conditions but this again doesn't cater for things such as different tyres, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to compare two known cars that you have available, the best advice is to drive them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T09:59:27.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19794" CreationDate="2015-09-02T10:01:31.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to check is to fit a new timing belt, turn the engine over by hand and make sure it feels free and isn't making any odd noises.  Then do a compression test and see if it's still got compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that all checks out then you should be okay to try and start it.  If not, the only option to you is to pop the cylinder head off and take a look (unless you have access to a bore scope to look inside the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:01:31.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6936" CreationDate="2015-09-02T10:07:53.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me as though your car was imported from a country which uses KM.  It may be that it's had it's instrument binnacle replaced at some point in the past with an import unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically it's fairly easy to convert a KM speedo to MPH by simply removing the perspex and needle and sticking a replacement facia marked up with MPH over the speedo.  It's significantly harder to change the odometer from KMH to MPH so this may be what has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a slim chance that the odometer supports both options and there is a switch (or jumper) hidden away on the back of the cluster which has been set incorrectly from the factory.  This setting could conceivably be controlled from the ECU but I'm not familiar enough with your model of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers inaccuracy is usually legislatively limited to a maximum error of 10% with most modern cars being inside a 2% error so based on your massive over-read, I'd say it's set to KM almost certainly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:07:53.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19797" CreationDate="2015-09-02T10:25:35.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen two things cause this problem. The first is an obstruction in the fuel filler neck. This could be caused by damage or a foreign object logged in the neck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is if a EVAP vent solenoid is stuck closed. The evaporative emissions system collects access vapors from the fuel tank in a charcoal canister. To dispose of the collected vapors the car draws air through the canister and burns it through an engine. This is controlled by the purge solenoid. To make sure that the system is working correctly and there aren't any holes or a forgotten gas cap the system has a vent solenoid. To check the system the car will shut the vent solenoid and use the purge solenoid to draw the system into a vacuum. If the system can hold a vacuum then there are no leaks and everything functions correctly. The car is also equipped with on board vapor recovery, a system that traps the vapors that are inside the gas tank as it's being filled with fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vent solenoid is stuck closed the vapors inside the tank cannot escape and the fuel filling nozzle at the gas station thinks that the tank is full. The fastest way to check this is to disconnect the hose from the back of the canister or if the solenoid is connected to the canister with a separate hose then disconnect that hose. Then take the car to a gas station and fill it. If the solenoid was bad the car will take gas with no problem. If the canister has multiple hoses the biggest one is the one your looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:25:35.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19812" CreationDate="2015-09-02T13:34:13.723" Score="7" ViewCount="23077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed a throttle body which had a brittle, baked on gasket, part of which adhered to the intake manifold and part of which adhered to the throttle body.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the baked on parts of the gasket to come off?  They're hard as a rock - I tried scraping them off with a knife, but I'm a bit afraid to damage the mating surface, causing it to not seal properly afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T13:49:05.633" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T02:51:03.857" Title="How to Remove Baked On Gaskets" Tags="|gasket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19804" CreationDate="2015-09-02T13:47:24.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Burnt or baked-on rubber gaskets can be really hard to remove!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dedicated chemicals available for this job (unsurprisingly called &quot;gasket remover&quot;), which make scraping off the old gasket really easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't available, it is still possible to scrape it off, but will require lots of patience and finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of transmission shops in India that utilize regular paint thinner to remove old friction disk material, so it might be worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience, brake cleaner is not well suited to the task; it will be wasted on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T13:47:24.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2228" CreationDate="2015-09-02T14:39:47.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I bought every screw extractor on the market and had no luck.  All I got was a nice, smoothly shaved cone in the middle of my screw.  I ended up using my Dremel tool to cut 2 parallel sides into the screw head.  I then added another shot of WD-40, locked a pair of vice-grips onto the screw and managed to get it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12049" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T14:39:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2228" CreationDate="2015-09-02T14:43:28.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try and drill the entire screw out - I've done that before, after the screw removal tool &quot;thing&quot; failed to grasp it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T14:43:28.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15878" CreationDate="2015-09-02T16:24:18.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just fixed the same problem on my 2003 Infiniti G35. It's an easy fix. Clean the throttle body. All you need is some WD40, tooth brush, and electric motor spray. All you do is hold the throttle open and spray WD40 on the tooth brush. Brush around the throttle body's inside, then wipe out with a cloth. Spray it out with electric motor spray. Repeat until clean. Use a cloth to hold throttle open and do the top and bottom both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12050" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T18:24:31.097" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T18:24:31.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T17:10:54.267" Score="3" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  Suzuki Bandit GSF400 model '92. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I know the type of carb do I have on it? I am trying to do some replacement on jets but I need sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12051" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T11:01:32.667" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T21:31:53.660" Title="GSF400 Bandit carburetor model or type," Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15878" CreationDate="2015-09-02T18:12:14.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very possible that the TPS sensor pigtail was not fully locked in when reconnected. I've had this issue before when I failed to push the connector in far enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this question was posted in March, I assume you have resolved it. Please share what the outcome was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, seafoam + premium gas was a horrible suggestion for this issue. If it didn't do it before the repairs, then it was most likely something the mechanic did or didn't do or didn't do correctly, such as not plugging in connectors which is easy to miss or do incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T18:12:14.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19804" CreationDate="2015-09-02T20:26:57.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, using a putty knife with a sharpened edge (single bevel) is a very good way to go. I'm taking from your question, you are using a regular knife (one with an overall curved edge) to take it off. This is not a good way to go because the curvature can definitely cause you issue. A putty knife with a flat, straight, sharpened edge works really well, along with the chemicals which @Zaid mentioned. &lt;strong&gt;The key to not damaging your surface is to ensure you keep the blade straight (flat/flush) to the mating surface.&lt;/strong&gt; Also, put the beveled side down. This gives you more control over what the knife edge is doing. Find an edge in the gasket and work on it. There is no getting around the work part, as it is tedious. Take your time and work at it. You'll find what &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; works. I cannot describe &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; how to do it; only experience will explain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T20:26:57.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T02:21:51.493" Score="8" ViewCount="4406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 two wheel drive with a 4.7 liter engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been overheating so I replaced the whole cooling system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the condenser cooling fan because its not coming on when the trucks getting hot. It comes on when I turn the AC on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the relays, also still not working&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am getting no fault codes, no check engine light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I think it could be is the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12054" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:43:32.953" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T02:53:01.603" Title="2002 Dodge Ram 1500 overheating" Tags="|cooling-system|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19809" CreationDate="2015-09-03T04:24:24.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carb belongs to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-BANDIT-GSF400-600-1200-MIKUNI-BST-CARBURETOR-O-RING-REBUILD-KIT-/321852473311&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mikuni BST series family&lt;/a&gt;. Also see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-fuel-and-air/1992-suzuki-bandit-400-gsf400-carb-kits-parts-accessories-universal/pb9?m=147864&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T23:46:04.057" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T23:46:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T06:15:30.453" Score="3" ViewCount="2139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some noise is coming when the car is running at idle.  The noise goes away when the clutch pedal pressed.  This is happening immediately after replacing the clutch and clutch release bearing. what will be the root cause of this noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12055" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:44:38.327" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:47:14.363" Title="noise at idle after replacing new clutch" Tags="|clutch|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19823" CreationDate="2015-09-03T11:41:19.913" Score="4" ViewCount="12223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Oklahoma, so we don't have to get emissions checked. I have a 2000 v6 3.8l Mustang. I bought the car for $3500 at 70k miles (it was a really good) so I don't want to spend more money than I have already done with maintenance (around $1000/ brakes, other stuff, etc) to make the car &quot;better&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would removing the catalytic converters cause any negative effects on the engine? Would it affect how it runs in a negative way? I'm not to worried about the ECU popping up a code, because I could always take my ECU to get flashed (tuned) to run without the catalytic converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T20:54:02.573" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T15:23:10.443" Title="Removing catalytic converters on a 2000 v6 Mustang?" Tags="|ford|mustang|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T11:57:21.943" Score="4" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked around many shops in my area, and pretty much no one even knew what gasket removing compound was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any effective homebrew formulas for making gasket remover / softener?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/component/documents/?view=msds&amp;amp;format=raw&amp;amp;filename=80645.pdf&amp;amp;language=01_USA-English&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the MSDS for Permatex&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/866081.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;for CRC Gasket Remover&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T12:03:09.157" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T04:08:46.283" Title="Formula For Homebrew Gasket Remover" Tags="|cleaning|gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20841" CreationDate="2015-09-03T13:19:40.363" Score="5" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brake vacuum booster makes vacuum on one side and the other is with normal atmospheric pressure, why doesn't it get sucked by itself towards the vacuum side?  If the vacuum isn't enough to pull it, how does the brake piston return back to its place after braking?  Isn't this done by vacuum as well?  I have watched videos where the brake piston was very hard to push by regular hand so how can vacuum only pull it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T23:27:01.463" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T15:33:09.127" Title="How brake vacuum booster works?" Tags="|brakes|vacuum|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19816" CreationDate="2015-09-03T13:25:46.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: I can't find any evidence that removing the catalytic converters on this model will improve the car. It will definitely confuse the ECU (and obviously pollute more).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked hard for any dyno sheets that show any concrete evidence that cat delete alone will add power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the cats is something that I would almost never recommend outside of certain specific circumstances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing a pre-turbo cat on an early 2000s WRX. Those fail after years of use and will suck all kinds of turbo breaking yuck into the turbine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building a race exhaust from the ground up where cats aren't required anyway. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Louder: this might be something that appeals to you. However, I find the tinny cat delete sounds to be like a drill in my brain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Confused ECU: the ECU will almost certainly throw codes due to the change in airflow and composition. On my car, a confused ECU means lower performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exhaust fumes will be illegal in many states: unless you're planning to live in one place forever, you should consider whether it's going to be worth the hassle when you decide to move or even drive out of state. Local ordinances will win if they don't like your new volume and non-catted exhaust smell.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, as Fred Wilson reminds me, it is against federal law to remove or replace a functional OEM catalytic converter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hidden costs: getting any benefit from a no-cat exhaust will require tuning. This, this isn't really a zero cost solution. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical recommendations for other ways to get cheap fun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a cheap intake. Better airflow up front will certainly help. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the muffler / replace with minimal required: a lower weight muffler will likely sound much more fun than no cats. If I could get away without mine, I would. :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove weight in the car: can you replace the spare tire and jack with a can of fix a flat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better tires: are you driving on the original tires?  Dump them for something new but affordable and be impressed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T19:02:19.040" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T19:02:19.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19824" CreationDate="2015-09-03T14:19:49.373" Score="1" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does TPMS work in real time, both the direct and indirect versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A diagram of the device should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T23:34:26.917" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T23:34:26.917" Title="Tyre Pressure monitoring system" Tags="|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19816" CreationDate="2015-09-03T14:39:39.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The catalytic converter is there to make your exhaust cleaner. It does nothing critical to the proper running of the engine itself. If you remove it, all that will happen is that you'll get dirtier exhaust and an error code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)), which is to be expected because the &quot;catalyst system&quot; has been removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reflash the ECU to ignore this error, you won't have to worry about it ever again. I got the same error in my Subaru Forester after I had the downpipe decatted. When I reflashed the ECU, the error no longer popped up and it didn't affect my performance in any way. In fact, turbo spool is quicker because the exhaust is less restrictive now ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T14:39:39.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19821" CreationDate="2015-09-03T15:14:45.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direct TPMS utilizes a small transmitter on each wheel. The device is activated by an inertial switch that turns on when sufficient wheel rotation speed is achieved. This transmitter sends pressure and temperature data to one or more receivers. These systems work well until the transmitters battery quits and then the whole transmitter must be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indirect systems have no transmitters. This system utilizes wheel speed rotations sensors installed at the wheel hub or bearing, usually installed first as part of the antilock brake system. The theory is that a tire with low pressure will have a different diameter and therefore a different wheel speed. In practice this system can be prone to false failure alerts. Newer systems have improved algorithms that have a lower false alarm rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T15:14:45.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T15:39:38.013" Score="0" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a Honda Civic Touring 2014, can i use 205/55/R16 instead of 215/45/R17?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what size should i use for 16&quot; tires, as I want to use 16&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12059" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:41:00.977" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T23:37:52.867" Title="Honda Civic Touring 2014 - can use R16 instead of R17" Tags="|honda|tires|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16157" CreationDate="2015-09-03T15:50:53.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a short in the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9938" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T15:50:53.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2262" CreationDate="2015-09-03T16:12:45.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in the petroleum industry so I get crude in the bed of my truck all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good degreaser is Simple Green. Use a towel to wipe it clean. When I have dry crude an S.O.S pad works, it doesn't seem to scratch up the paint either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12061" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:39:30.490" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:39:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19825" CreationDate="2015-09-03T16:50:34.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any size tire you feel like if they fit on your wheels. If you have 17 in wheels then there is physically no way to fit 16 in tires on them. To use the 16 in tires that you want you would have to buy 16 in wheels to match them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that the tire size can be changed around. It may change the way your car feels and rides. Also if the size is chosen poorly it may affect the speedometer. To keep the speedometer curate either the computer needs reprogrammed to work with the new tires or the effective rolling diameter of the tires needs to be the same as factory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T16:50:34.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19825" CreationDate="2015-09-03T16:55:53.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 17&quot; rims, which you implied, you have to use 17&quot; tires. You could get 16&quot; rims for your 16&quot; tires to fit on, but rims aren't cheap. The way you tell what rim size tires are for is the number after the R like: 215/45/R&lt;strong&gt;17&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't just put any tire on that will match the rim size.  You do have a lot of freedom, but you need to take into account rim width and make sure the tires won't rub against the wheel well when you turn also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire size calculator&lt;/a&gt; that could help to demystify what tire numbers actually mean.  It is showing that those two tires are very similar, but their rims are different so they are definitely not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After researching, this I figured out that your question is probably about swapping your &lt;code&gt;7Jx17 ET46&lt;/code&gt; stock rim for a different trim Honda Civic's &lt;code&gt;6.5Jx16 ET48&lt;/code&gt; rim.  This question would have a been a thousand times easier if you specified the trim and engine of your car and the car you're taking the rims off, but I made some educated guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that tire size calculator, your new &lt;em&gt;wheels&lt;/em&gt; will be almost the exact same diameter and almost the exact same width so they should work without any adjustment or problems.  Wheels is the term that includes the rim and tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your new rims will be 1/2&quot; skinnier so the skinnier tires aren't a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the 1.8 engine, your car trim level is either an &lt;code&gt;EX&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;EX-L&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;HF&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;LX&lt;/code&gt;.  The front rotor for all four of those trims is the same (has the same part number).  It is roughly 10&quot; in diameter.  I would bet that that rotor (and brake combo) can fit inside the 16&quot; rims from a different trim Honda Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T23:37:52.867" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T23:37:52.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19825" CreationDate="2015-09-03T18:44:50.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overall wheel diameter will not change much, as the other answers have already mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there is less tread width with the proposed size and the smaller rim may give rise to brake disc clearance issues, so it's worth checking to see if the existing brake setup will clear the 16&quot; rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:44:50.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19815" CreationDate="2015-09-03T18:47:14.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very good chance that the clutch throwout bearing was not inserted flush into the 'throwout arm'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bearing is off center (which is possible but not guaranteed) it can make some strange whirring noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:47:14.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19835" CreationDate="2015-09-03T20:34:36.380" Score="9" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the details of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00QSJ9K7G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this jumpstart product&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJuv7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJuv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It claims to be 2 lbs and 14.2 x 12 x 3.5 inches, which I think is for the outer black canvas case, so I would guess the actual device is less than 9.5 x 5.5 x 3 inches.  I assume this is a Li-Ion battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, a standard lead-acid battery for a common small car is 9.4 x 5.1 x 8.8 inches - 3 times as big, and maybe 10 times as heavy (This is BCI form factor 51R which is used by the 2015 Honda Civic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the different battery chemistry accounts for the smaller size of the jumpstarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do modern cars not use this smaller battery type?  Looking at the amazon link it doesn't seem to be a matter of cost - the jumpstarter price is in a similar ballpark to what one would pay for the 51R lead-acid battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T09:26:31.777" Title="Portable jumpstart kits: why aren't regular car batteries this small?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2015-09-04T00:41:32.620" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two biggest disadvantage of lead acid batteries compared to the newer types like Li Ion are that they are heavier, and that they contain liquid acid. Another possible issue is that they can produce hydrogen gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, they are very inexpensive, have a long life expectancy, have a very high tolerance for overcharging without being damaged, and they hold a charge longer than other types. They are also able to handle high discharge rates. &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/whats_the_best_battery&quot;&gt;Here are some comparison charts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the disadvantages, you can see that they're mostly irrelevant in a car. The weight of the battery is trivial compared to the weight of the rest of the components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to stand long periods of slow charging without damage, and being able to sit unused for long periods of time without losing charge are ideal properties for a car battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being light weight and packing a lot of energy into a small package are just not that important for a car, but they're critical for portable devices, and this jump starter is in fact a portable device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the cost of this jump starter and comparing it to the cost of a lead acid battery is not really realistic, because this device would not be able to start your car daily for years without failing. You'd be replacing it much more frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's definitely true that newer battery technologies are showing up in cars, especially hybrids and electric vehicles. But those don't need jump starts, and for most ICEs, the lead-acid battery still provides the most reliable and durable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="7225" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T00:46:58.573" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T00:46:58.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20835" CreationDate="2015-09-04T00:45:43.467" Score="20" ViewCount="16979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does driving with your foot always resting on the clutch (not pushing) generally wear it down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T10:22:08.483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T11:12:50.727" Title="Does resting your foot on the clutch wear it out?" Tags="|clutch|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20840" CreationDate="2015-09-04T00:52:15.577" Score="3" ViewCount="2317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a reversing camera for the back of my car, as I often have to park in very tight spaces, or am parked in.&#xA;However, I can't fit a camera to the front, so I was wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fit rear parking sensors to the front of my 2003 Opel Agila? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I have to drill into the bumper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any caveats to this solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T09:12:08.637" Title="Can I fit parking sensors on the front of my car?" Tags="|sensor|parking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2015-09-04T01:47:49.890" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It absolutely does. It's called &lt;em&gt;riding the clutch&lt;/em&gt;. Even though you &quot;believe&quot; you just have your foot there, it forces the pedal down and takes up the slack which is there. This causes the throw out bearing to ride against the clutch fingers, which presses so ever slightly and causes the clutch to not have as much grip. This causes the clutch friction disk to slip which causes heat and ultimately wear. I've found in these situations, the clutch doesn't necessarily wear out, but the extra heat caused by the slippage causes heat cracks in the face of the flywheel. This causes the driver no length of pain in driving and it is a chore. In the process, the throw out bearing wears out very quickly as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resting your foot on the pedal is a &lt;em&gt;very bad&lt;/em&gt; practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T22:56:11.877" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T22:56:11.877" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T02:14:58.377" Score="2" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am driving a 2000 Ford Explorer with 140k miles on it. Although the car runs well, it feels like it is on the verge of a breakdown that I'd like to stay in front of if possible. When I start the car, it puts a little slowly, but eventually starts. In the couple hundred times I have started it, it has only died post start (ran on second) once. When I am stopped at a light, the car shakes a little bit. Lastly, I notice the smell which is basically smells like something is hot. I have no lights on and oil/temp all seem to be fine. I had it in a shop a couple months ago and they had assured me it should be running fine, but I cannot seem to stop anticipating a break down. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also not sure if possibly related, but the electronic keys I have with the car can barely unlock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12063" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T20:17:28.607" Title="Car is slow to start, shakes occasionally, and smells hot... but runs fine?" Tags="|ford|smell|shaking|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2015-09-04T06:38:34.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Saab Saloon and only have one fog light on the drivers side.  It must be designed like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12064" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T07:15:16.960" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T07:15:16.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T07:13:43.533" Score="3" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I pinpoint a power steering fluid leak without replacing everything? fluid leaks out completely if filled up. I am not sure if i am skilled enough to do job myself or if its too dangerous. if anyone has experience with this i would greatly appreciate it. Ive been underneath and i think its the idle control valve on pump. It was loose a tad bit but not sure if its supposed to be like that or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 1994 lexus ls400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12065" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T13:16:34.500" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T01:20:43.043" Title="How to find source of power steering fluid leak?" Tags="|power-steering|camry|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23344" CreationDate="2015-09-04T09:07:05.500" Score="3" ViewCount="33993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a TVS Apache RTR 160 second hand. I want to know what grade engine oil should i use for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was suggested to use 15W50. Is that a good choice. The bike has done almost 65000Kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10906" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:10:21.467" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T13:15:24.427" Title="TVS Apache RTR 160 - What Grade Engine Oil Should I Use?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|oil-change|apache-rtr|tvr|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19837" CreationDate="2015-09-04T09:12:08.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can put them in the front bumper. You'll need to drill them in - just like the back bumper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend having a cut off switch for the front sensors somewhere in the cabin, otherwise the beeping would be very annoying. Rear sensors are (usually) powered by the reversing lamp's wiring, so in the front you won't have this... so a cut off switch is a requirement!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will look a bit strange having them in the front!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T09:12:08.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19818" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:55:36.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are valves involved that operate when pressure is applied or removed from the brake pedal.  Have a look at these simplified diagrams - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T12:55:36.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2015-09-04T13:58:21.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The jump-start battery can't store enough energy to run the car&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike jump-starting kits, car batteries are not just used for cranking the engine; they serve as an energy storage unit for virtually all electrical sub-systems (lights, coils, injectors, ECU, power windows, power seats, radio, cooling fans, miscellaneous sensors, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product in question is designed to store 15 Ah worth of energy. This is not enough to meet the energy demand of all vehicle sub-systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some Ah ratings of batteries for a few vehicles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toyota Corolla, 41 Ah&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pontiac GTO, 70 Ah&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VW Touareg, 110 Ah&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T13:58:21.927" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T17:03:50.430" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shopping around for a new mechanic, are there any signs one can look for to see if the guy is a scam artist or if he is honest and knowledgeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10150" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T19:53:00.293" Title="How can one find a trustworthy mechanic?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20844" CreationDate="2015-09-04T19:53:00.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cartalk.com has a place where people post their recommended mechanics. I have found it useful. Here's the URL: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cartalk.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T19:53:00.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20836" CreationDate="2015-09-04T20:17:28.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also had a 2000 Ford 4.0L OHV V6 and experienced similar symptoms (rough idle, intermittent no start, but no hot smell). In my case, it turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve, which is a small silver cylinder located on top of the plastic air intake manifold that is placed on top of the engine. Its main function is to let enough air into the engine when your foot is off the throttle to keep it idling - when it starts to jam, you experience no-start symptoms that are helped when you push on the throttle. It is a cheap enough part to replace or you can clean your existing one using brake cleaner; be sure to dry it completely before reinstalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T20:17:28.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20838" CreationDate="2015-09-04T20:33:44.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are fluorescent dyes that you can add to oil to detect leaks. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INT0/374CS/N1786.oap?ck=Search_N1786_-1_-1&amp;amp;pt=N1786&amp;amp;ppt=C0050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is an example&lt;/a&gt; - You can add it to the PS fluid reservoir, run the car a while, and then use a UV light around the engine bay to hopefully find the leak. I am surprised that a high leak rate such as this is not showing evidence on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-05T01:20:43.043" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T01:20:43.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19818" CreationDate="2015-09-05T02:43:03.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They is designed for the entire life of the vehicle. No maintenance ;except fluid check is commonly ever needed. Avoid disassembly unless you are convinced&#xA;of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12071" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T02:43:03.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15291" CreationDate="2015-09-05T02:55:57.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be oddly worn tires or ..If the 'OutBack' means you go 4-wheeling&#xA;in harsh terrain ,you may bend the frame of the vehicle even to the point&#xA;of setting off the air-bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12071" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T02:55:57.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20960" CreationDate="2015-09-05T03:33:32.563" Score="5" ViewCount="6737" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car, a 2003 Toyota Kijang (known as Toyota Revo in other markets) uses a &lt;em&gt;non&lt;/em&gt; maintenance-free battery that has to be topped up every now and then with distilled water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, while filling it up, I accidentally overfilled the battery (I was startled by something and my hand flinched). The liquid overflowed on top of the battery. So I closed the cap and poured water on top of the spills to dilute and wash it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do next? I think I don't have a tool to suck out the excess fluid from the battery, and the battery is too heavy for me to lift out of the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12072" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T04:28:27.037" Title="What to do when accidentally overfilled a car battery" Tags="|battery|toyota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T06:08:56.340" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;When at constant speed I notice a slight thump. Almost as if for a split second the car lost fuel to the engine then kicks back in. It does not register on the instruments. Also at lower speeds it can get shaky especially when decelerating. Taking it to the dealer Monday. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12073" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-05T16:10:51.927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T16:10:51.927" Title="2009 Volvo S40 sudden thump" Tags="|fuel-system|transmission|volvo|vibration|s40|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T13:15:33.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15534" CreationDate="2015-09-05T06:57:54.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try checking your fan belt. It could be coming apart and only making noise when you get up to certain speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12054" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T06:57:54.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2015-09-05T10:15:12.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need for improved filtration, except when vehicle operates in dusty environments, such as my Jeep does. In a dusty environment improved air filter and oil filter filtration is helpful. So to that end I prefer a high filtration oil filter that filters 10 micron particles (most oil filters only filter 20 or 21 Micron particles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like Mobil One oil filters because they filter particles as small as 10 microns. I don't use Mobil One oil, but I do use their filters for this reason. They also flow more/easier than standard paper oil filters. They offer finer filtration AND more flow in OEM size filter, and even more flow in a large oversize filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher flow and larger the filter, the more time it spends filtering, and the less time it spends in bypass mode. Oil pressure is unaffected (if you choose a filter that has same bypass pressure as OEM filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mobil One filters are already both high filtration and high flow in stock OEM size. The larger oversize M1 filter I use is massive over kill, but cost same as OEM size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger oil filter needs to have the same specs (as OEM size filter) for threads, diameter, bypass valve pressure. Those specs are published at each oil filter manufacturer's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what size oil filter you buy, you should always get one with an ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVE because this keeps oil in the filter when engine is turned off. This keeps filter full of oil, which reduces the time it takes for oil pressure to come up at cold start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The anti-drainback valve should be standard on all filters, but is not. Cheap filters lack an anti-drainback valve. Quality filters (of any brand) have an anti-drainback valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a larger filter has an anti-drainback valve, being larger won't affect the time it takes oil pressure to come up at cold start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any filter, ESPECIALLY A LARGER FILTER, it is important to prime a new oil filter before installing it. Priming the filter prevents (or reduces) dry start after changing the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to prime a new oil filter before installing it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If filter mounts thread side up, do this to prime it: Fill up the threaded center hole with oil. Let it sit for a few minutes for filtration material to soak up oil. The oil level in the filter will drop a lot as it soaks up oil. Fill the filter a second time, then install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If filter mounts laying on its side, do this to prime it: Fill up the threaded center hole with oil. Let it sit for a few minutes for filtration material to soak up oil. The oil level in the filter will drop a lot as it soaks up oil. Fill the filter up halfway this time time, then install it. It won't make a mess if you quickly tip it into place and spin in on quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is how my cousin primes oil filters. He's a mechanic. He primes all oil filters before installing them. However, he exceptionally thorough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt most mechanics bother to prime oil filters. If a larger than stock filter isn't primed, it's harmful because (if unprimed) it increases the time it takes oil pressure to come up when the car is started after an oil change. That causes a longer lasting dry start than you'd get with an unprimed OEM size filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an OEM size filter, priming it (at time of installation) is very beneficial, but not required. With a substantially oversized filter (like I use) priming the filter is a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12075" LastEditorUserId="12075" LastEditDate="2015-09-05T11:01:32.163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T11:01:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2015-09-05T10:25:19.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;P.S. - For anyone who cares about their engine and filtration, the air filter is the first line of defense. The oil filter is the last line of defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock (or stock equivalent) air filters do the best job of filtering. Aftermarket upgrade filters boasting high flow get that extra flow by not filtering as well. i.e. - aftermarket high flow air filters let a lot of dirt into your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned that the hard way with my Jeep. I went back to stock air filter after a fancy aftermarket filter let a lot of dust and dirt into my engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock air filters work well at keeping contaminants out of your engine, but some still get in there. The oil filter's job is to clean up the contaminants that got past the air filter, as well as clean up combustion contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12075" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T10:25:19.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T10:26:32.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to activate Aux on Japanese Honda Fit 2009 Gathers VXH-093 cvi? I bought an IP-BUS aux cable, and I don't know how to activate aux on Gathers VXH-093 cvi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12076" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T13:13:38.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:13:38.763" Title="How to activate Aux on Japanese Honda Fit 2009 Gathers VXH-093 cvi?" Tags="|honda|audio|fit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T12:39:25.037" Score="5" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my motorcycle got smashed by my girlfriend (who was driving behind me) in the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of the impact, I got propelled into the rear of the car in front of me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both fenders are broken, and at first it looked like that would be the biggest of issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I start the bike, the noise it makes is arguably louder then before. It also seems to have lost power, e.g., when I shift up to 4th gear, the chain starts rattling because it isn't turning over fast enough. It rides and shifts alright, but the loss of engine power is noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know we cannot be a 100% sure what caused this without inspecting it in a garage, but going on the symptoms, could you give me some pointers as to what it might probably be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms: &#xA;- Just after accident: engine stalls when no throttling, even in idle&#xA;- Exhaust noise is way louder&#xA;- General loss of power, I have to engage the throttle over 50% to get decent enough acceleration to get going, where it used to be only a small nudge to the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12077" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T20:38:15.600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:38:15.600" Title="Honda Shadow VT750 louder exhaust noise, low power" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|noise|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19484" CreationDate="2015-09-05T13:03:09.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the problem by change some fuses on my Fuse box, now the Speedometer is working good, Thanks to every one try to help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11855" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T13:03:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T13:27:56.950" Score="1" ViewCount="15769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some front rotors from when I replaced them it looks like I didn't need them so I kept them. I would like to take them to get shaved and put the in the back. Is this possible to do something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12078" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T07:57:55.990" Title="Can I take the front rotors and put them in the back" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2015-09-05T13:45:04.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After protecting the windows in painters tape and newspaper, I used the spray adhesive in late December 2014.  It is September 2015, and the problem has not yet resurfaced.  Paulster's answer is a bit more comprehensive and advises against this course of action, so I selected it, but will update with progress for as long as I own the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE - December 2018:&lt;/strong&gt; No change; the adhesive spray is still holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="3120" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T20:16:00.053" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T20:16:00.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19751" CreationDate="2015-09-05T14:01:48.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Peter's answer: hold the handlebars straight aligned. Especially on slippery surfaces, breaking while in the middle of a turn is not recommended. I have the same tyres on Yamaha XTZ250, and once went down at very low speed because of this mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1437" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T14:01:48.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20859" CreationDate="2015-09-05T15:02:33.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without more information, I'd just take a wild guess and say probably not. Often front and rear rotors are different. Sometimes the front rotors are larger, and in many cases, rear rotors are slightly different to accommodate the parking brake. One quick option would be to find part numbers for front and rear rotors for your vehicle and see if they're the same part.&#xA;More information on your vehicle might get you a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T15:02:33.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20866" CreationDate="2015-09-05T15:32:48.597" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike but the question is also for a car of my neighbor. Both are parked in the garage where, sadly, some moron proved his moronity by doing something moronic, which caused a fire to flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, my beloved yellow vroom was spared of the heat &lt;strong&gt;but&lt;/strong&gt; it's less yellow now. More precisely, it's dark brown. Very dark brown. It's because of the soot, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was about to ride to the wash but then I remembered something about the carbon being conductive for the electricity and I'm worried that if I ignite my sweetie. I'll turn it to a frying pan. And I prefer not to do that. The number of fires in our neighborhood has been sufficiently high already and we don't need another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be worrying for nothing but I rather ask &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; question than &lt;em&gt;what to do when the bike is fried up&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11338" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T00:16:55.067" Title="Does fire damage the electrics of a vehicle?" Tags="|electrical|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T15:44:49.457" Score="4" ViewCount="1890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a pontoon boat and on day #3 my motor died, I'm hoping to get some help from the community with correctly diagnosing and fixing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor - 1999 Yamaha 80hp four stroke (F80TLRX).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem - 30A fuse is blown, and when it's replaced the rectifier starts overheating (burning and smoking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened - I was cruising along and started to increase throttle, but suddenly started losing power. With a minute or two the engine died, and I had no power to the tilt/trim motor (from either remote or engine side) or starter. One clue, or perhaps red herring, is that shortly before this occurred I tried turning on the fish finder. It didn't power up, which was odd, as it had worked previously before this cruise. Another clue/red herring, is that I found the electrical cable to the masthead light was under stress because of a broken seat cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempted solutions - My first step was checking the fuses, and the 30A fuse was blown. As mentioned the motor started smoking badly and emitting a burning smell when I replaced the fuse, which I confirmed was from the rectifier after removing some covers. I removed the in-line fuse connecting the fish finder, just in case that was causing a problem, and addressed the masthead light cable, but this didn't resolve anything. The battery is in good shape and the connections are clean and tight, and after inspection of the motor I can't find any loose/broken/chafed wires that might be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first inclination is to just replace the rectifier, though if something is causing that to burn up I might just end up frying another one. Any suggestions for how to correctly identify and isolate the root cause would be greatly appreciated before I invest money in parts or a professional marine mechanic. (I may go with the latter in any case just to be on the safe side.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12080" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T11:55:18.477" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T20:47:39.937" Title="1999 Yamaha 80hp Outboard Electrical Problem (Rectifier Overheating)" Tags="|electrical|yamaha|boat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20864" CreationDate="2015-09-05T15:56:51.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the thing you need to look at is not the carbon on the bike, but rather the condition of the parts. Look at the rubber and soft parts on the bike. Are any of them melted from the heat? Did any of the paint bubble on the tank? If not, your bike is probably in good shape and doesn't need anything special but a good washing to remove the soot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike did suffer any melting or paint bubbling, you'll need to look further at the bike. See if any exposed wiring suffered a similar fate. If the wiring has taken a lot of heat, it could be that the wiring has become brittle and will crack easily. &lt;em&gt;This&lt;/em&gt; could cause your bike to become the molten lump of metal you fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your bike wasn't burnt to the ground, I'd suspect it's probably in okay shape. I would personally take a hose to it and rinse as much of the soot off of the bike as I could, then it should be good to take to the car wash for a complete bath and some well deserved TLC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T00:16:55.067" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T00:16:55.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20865" CreationDate="2015-09-05T16:21:14.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, a fuse is there to protect electrical parts from using or being exposed to too much amperage. When the circuit goes over this amperage, the fuse burns out. Since this happened to you, I'd suggest one of two things is going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a short in that circuit. Since you stated you didn't see any chafing in the wires, this is not the problem. I'd suggest you go back over it with a fine tooth comb and ensure the circuit hasn't grounded somewhere. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rectifier has gone bad and is causing the excess power drain. This I believe is your true issue. Do the double check on the circuit first. If it doesn't pan out, plan on replacing the rectifier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the rectifier is mounted to a ground, but you could possible remount it so that it isn't in contact with anything which becomes hot during the use of the motor. If you can put a small spacer in between so as to get the rectifier off of any hot parts, it may help it in the long run. This is only a preventive suggestion to prevent issues in the future. I know boat motors are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; compact, so there may not be room to do this. It's just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, double check to ensure you are using the right fuse for the application. The fuse may have been an issue when you bought it, where the rectifier was using too much amperage in the first place and the previous owner &quot;fixed it&quot; by putting a higher amperage fuse in place. There is a reason why there are fuses, as described above. Use them wisely and your boat motor will be less likely to become a lump of molten metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T16:21:14.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20859" CreationDate="2015-09-05T16:36:12.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would give it about a 99.9% probability that they will not exchange front to back. I've never ran into a set where you could (not ruling out there might be &lt;em&gt;some vehicle out there which you can&lt;/em&gt;). The main reason for this is they are designed differently. The front brakes do about 70-75% (depends on the manufacture) of the braking for the vehicle. Because of this, they are built with more machined surface already built into it than the back has. They are often quite a bit wider diameter (which gives the rotor a mechanical advantage) and thicker (provides for better heat dispersion) than the back for the same purpose. And as @barbecue has stated, the rear brakes often have the accommodation for emergency (parking) brakes, which I've never come across before for front braking systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you can do with them, though, is if there is enough meat on them (thick enough) to accept machining, get them machined and save them for the &lt;em&gt;next time&lt;/em&gt; you need to replace your front brake rotors. To keep them preserved, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get them machined.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean them thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get large thick mil plastic Ziploc style bags (or vacuum storage bags) to store them in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the rotors liberally with a good coat of WD-40 (specifically use this brand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put them in the bag(s) along with some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nitro-pak.com/oxygen-absorbers-pak-of-50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oxygen absorption packets&lt;/a&gt;. You may want to place these in a folded up paper towel or something so the WD-40 doesn't absorb into them and keep them from absorbing the oxygen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze out as much air as you can and seal the Ziploc fastener.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something along this lines should keep them from rusting for a long period of time. You may want to keep an eye on them every once in a while to ensure they are in good shape. Do so without opening the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T16:05:19.833" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:05:19.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20851" CreationDate="2015-09-05T16:55:07.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've done all you can do by washing the excess away. Accidents happen and you've done the best you can. I don't think you've ruined your battery, though the electrolyte may be a little low in the cell you overfilled. As long as you can put the cap back on, I'm fairly sure you are in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T16:55:07.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20886" CreationDate="2015-09-05T18:24:30.037" Score="2" ViewCount="5681" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This started before the steering wheel was locked, I locked it because I forgot what a locked steering wheel feels like and wasn't thinking too much. Had a LOT of time to wiggle the key before it was locked though, so it's definitely the ignition lock cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tried with a never used key - didn't solve the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pop the cylinder assembly out of column lock, and take it to locksmith.. maybe $25 repair, as opposed to $160+ for new cylinder assembly with key, thus making you a 2 key car then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/1/categories/hyundai-sonata-ignition-lock-cylinders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hyundai Forum&lt;/a&gt;, you can just get it repaired at a locksmith. Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, extremely I rusty mechanically (nor did I ever deal with a wheel lock), but I remember something about the steering wheel lock being a huge problem for me now as I go to take the cylinder out, might have to drill the spring release. Is this correct or is that not an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - I guess I don't understand what actually breaks. I understand how locks work and a worn down key just won't move the pins and allow it to turn - fine. That seems to not be the problem though, what else is there to break and keep it from turning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12082" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T15:18:26.013" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T01:43:32.510" Title="2007 Hyundai Sonata Automatic Key Won't Turn" Tags="|ignition|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9413" CreationDate="2015-09-05T22:08:18.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem today at the highway . steam was coming from the brake drivers side . I had to stop on the side and make a phone call to my mechanic . he said stop the car for 15 minutes and spray some water on the brake . It works Just to get me out of the highway . tomorrow will fix and know what was wrong !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12084" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T22:08:18.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T23:05:32.310" Score="1" ViewCount="6996" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit unusual of a question but does anyone know of really durable markers (as in Sharpie) that leave durable markings that resist erasure due to exposure to oil and other retarding agents?  I am trying to make marks on my VVT drums where and on my crankshaft where they need to align with markings on the timing chain (which are on the chain already).  There are sort of marks on the drums (but not on the crankshaft) already but it is confusing to distinguish them from some other markings that are also present but not relevant.  I tried using a Sharpie but it goes out over time and I haven't even zipped up the motor.  Is there something like oil based Sharpie that leaves almost like a thick trace of paint that doesn't erase easily, which mechanics would use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:18:26.460" Title="Oil resistant marker for timing chain positioning" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T23:09:21.250" Score="11" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Father-in-Law gave this Ford branded ignition coil to me today.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to know what vehicle it went to, and how it was hooked up originally. Can I easily determine whether it works or not without connecting it to the vehicle it was designed for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TsBMX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wooden box with exposed terminals and a relay on one end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T05:25:52.483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T05:25:52.483" Title="What vehicle does this ancient ignition coil fit?" Tags="|ford|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20877" CreationDate="2015-09-05T23:39:41.090" Score="6" ViewCount="13990" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 13 months and 7500 miles ago, my mechanic replaced the EGR Valve and Tube and cleaned the intake to solve the low airflow problem.  Now I'm again getting an insufficient flow warning with my check engine light (code P0401). I noticed the light shortly after rapidly accelerating because of a short merge lane in temperatures around 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is: Is there anything else that wasn't replaced or cleaned last year that could be causing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I know Accords like mine have problems with buildup in the EGR system. But has anyone else experienced repeat problems with the EGR system within such a short timeframe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12085" LastEditorUserId="12085" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T00:35:44.080" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:32:49.673" Title="After Replacing EGR valve and tube: repeat of code P0401 for 98 Accord V6" Tags="|engine|honda|air-intake|egr|p0401|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20874" CreationDate="2015-09-05T23:48:24.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you said it has Ford on the case, this would most likely be a coil for a Model T. I don't &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; know how you'd test it, but I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtfca.com/coils/Coils.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt; from a Model T Ford website. I think it would be very hard to try and test, as there are adjustments of what I'm calling the top (to the left in your picture). There are adjustments needed for the vibrator which is next to the spring and under the &quot;V&quot; bar (again on the top). Here is a detailed image of what the part names are located there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRFBL.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRFBL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the basic layout for the entire coil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XLqu.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XLqu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the above images were pulled from the website linked above. You may be able to find something which will help you with your endeavor there, as the document seems fairly comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T23:48:24.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20875" CreationDate="2015-09-06T00:03:10.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is the V6 Accord, it very well could be an issue with carbon buildup again. It seems there was a tech bulletin which was issued by Honda about it for the 98-01 Accord and 99-02 Odyssey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a pretty write-up of how to get it really cleaned up, as getting it into a good state is quite a bit of a job. &lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/diy-fix-all-had-p0401-code-2674082/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is where the write-up&lt;/a&gt; can be found with pictures. Here is the basic write-up pulled from that website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You will need; wire brush, some carb cleaner or brake cleaner, a shop vac, new EGR gasket $1-$2 and new EGR chamber gasket $32.00 from Honda. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the fuel rail with the injectors intact if possible. (Do it slow and gentle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Unbolt the EGR valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Unbolt the EGR chamber underneath the fuel, that is bolted on to the intake manifold. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Soak the EGR chamber with a cleaner and scrub the hell out of it, this took me a while as you can see how dirty it was. I mean it was hard as a rock at some spots. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use the shop vac to suck the carbon build up as you break it away on the intake manifold. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T00:03:10.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20884" CreationDate="2015-09-06T02:53:18.663" Score="1" ViewCount="5581" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many speakers rated at 50W RMS (and 250W PMPO), while absolute all head units are about 14-22W RMS per channel (50W max).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? Could it be that those aftermarket speakers are all 4 ohms while head units are spec'd for 8 ohm speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: checked few head unit manuals and looks they are specified 20W RMS into 4 ohm channels. So my theory is wrong. Perhaps there is something with heat dissipation &amp;amp; default fuses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastEditorUserId="10299" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T02:59:42.273" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T11:36:58.600" Title="Why such a large difference between car stereo &amp; speaker power?" Tags="|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20875" CreationDate="2015-09-06T06:38:22.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A properly done repair for this should last for at least five years, repeats are rare, and I have done a lot of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A repeat plugging is most likely due to poor cleaning the first time. If the updated tube was installed and it was properly cleaned consider these possibility's. 1) Excess oil getting into the intake from the PCV system, or other causes of oil consumption. 2) Poor fuel that does not have good cleaners. 3) Unusual driving habits, especially short trips. 4) The EGR valve is sticking closed, but this should set a different code.  All rare but possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the update tube really installed? It requires special tools, we see this left out sometimes. This tube really does help the carbon buildup. If this car is in my service bay this is the first thing I would check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way the EGR valve does not affect the plugging, we rarely replace them after the first updated one is installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T16:07:34.333" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:07:34.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T07:39:41.867" Score="0" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7 liter the condenser fan isnt coming on does anybody know why it would not come on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12054" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T12:05:54.993" Title="Part 2. dodge overheating" Tags="|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-07T12:28:22.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16712" CreationDate="2015-09-06T12:53:53.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You can't directly use a MAP sensor reading to calculate load&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not unless you can correlate the manifold pressure to a flow rate value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19168/675&quot;&gt;elmerfud's answer&lt;/a&gt; shows an equation involving volumetric efficiency (VE), which essentially represents that correlation between flow rate and pressure. This correlation will vary between engines and the only way to obtain it is through experimental testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old-school way to establish the relationship between pressure and flow rate is to install a flow meter in the duct work that provides flow rate measurements, which can then be used in conjunction with the air pressure measurements to establish the relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T12:53:53.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20878" CreationDate="2015-09-06T13:01:44.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer has to do with the available power supply. I'm sorry if the answer becomes too technical. A head unit uses the voltage supplied by the car, for the sake of argument lets say 12v. The head unit then turns that supply into a split supply (plus and minus 12V) because that is what speakers need to make sound. The maximum power to the speaker then is square(V)/R where R is the resistance of the speaker. What you get is 144/4=36. 36 watts is the maximum power delivered to the speaker but we are interested in the RMS power. To convert this to RMS divide it by 2 and that gives you 18 watts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The not technical answer is that the head unit is powered by and only uses 12V from the car. This limits the power that the head unit can provide to the speakers. This is compared to an amplifier that has a DC to DC converter inside and can turn the 12V into a much higher voltage giving it the ability to deliver much more power. The reason they don't put these DC to DC converters into head units is cost and size. Even the smallest and wimpiest amplifiers are at least the size of a head unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T13:01:44.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:58:11.807" Score="3" ViewCount="17218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2012 Honda Civic (~36,000 miles). The AC will intermittently give off a paint thinner or magic marker smell. From what I understand, antifreeze has a sweet smell, and mold or mildew has a musty smell. It does not seem to be either of these smells; magic marker is probably the best description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not entirely sure, but I suspect that this odor is emitted when the AC is recirculating the air. Also, I believe I am hearing a decompressing sound before I get a whiff of the odor, and it usually ends shortly thereafter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just wondering if I am inhaling something unhealthy and if there might be a mechanical issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of questions I have found from other people who seem to be experiencing the same issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/weird-smell-inside-my-99tl-592223/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Similar &quot;magic marker&quot; description&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freshalloy.com/archive/index.php/t-80925.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Describes it as &quot;paint thinner&quot; smell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12090" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T16:10:47.127" Title="Paint thinner/magic marker smell coming from AC" Tags="|civic|ac|smell|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20871" CreationDate="2015-09-06T17:29:51.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the cylinder is only stuck. You can probably get it to work again by using some type of lubricant. That could be either WD-40 (just a little bit ... don't want to soak the thing) or if you don't like the smell, try some dry graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T17:29:51.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T19:09:37.007" Score="2" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a crazy question but can you increase your HP if you adjust your valves (by changing your lifters or whatever other mechanism is used for shimming) to decrease the gap between the riding surface and the cams so that the cam pushes the valve more, thus increasing the opening through which the A/F mix gets in, increasing the intake ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the pros and cons of that approach ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T19:32:46.707" Title="Can you change HP by adjusting valves?" Tags="|valve|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20887" CreationDate="2015-09-06T19:32:46.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer, no. I can only speak for cars but the industry almost as a whole gone to hydraulic lifters. These lifters take all the slack out of the valve train and compensate for wear and temperature. In the cars that still don't have hydraulic lifters the valve train is already adjusted for maximum efficiency. The adjustment is compensated for temperature but it can't compensate for wear, the reason the valves need periodic adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adjusting valves there needs to be a clearance in the mechanism that allows for thermal expansion plus a fudge factor for just in case. If they are adjusted too loose you will lose performance and they will make noise. If they are adjusted too tight, when the valve train gets hot the valves will get forced open when the should be closed, again diminishing performance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to achieve what you are speaking of is to change the cam shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T19:32:46.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20885" CreationDate="2015-09-06T21:44:34.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things come to mind. Refrigerant or A/C system lubricant oil. They leak out together, there could be a hissing sound while the leak is in progress. Intermittent leaks in the A/C condenser area not common on newer vehicles. If this is a leak, the system will eventually quit working when the gas all leaks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smells are subjective, I would not describe R134a refrigerant as &quot;magic marker&quot; but it does have a distinctive chemical odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil is not good for humans. The refrigerant gas is claimed to be non-toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T16:10:47.127" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T16:10:47.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T21:58:06.037" Score="2" ViewCount="34150" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly is the purpose of a smog block-off plate?  What does it 'block-off'?  How is it installed?  And what are the benefits/detriments of installing such plates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular case, I ask, pertaining to a 2012 Yamaha YZF-R6&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeFpL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeFpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T21:17:28.480" Title="What is the purpose of a smog block-off plate?" Tags="|motorcycle|motors|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20895" CreationDate="2015-09-06T23:56:49.010" Score="1" ViewCount="16785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is driving equally safe whether the brake calipers are rusted or not? I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/14580/best-way-to-remove-rust-from-brake-calipers-without-removing-wheel&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, and I didn't read that driving was discouraged with rusted calipers (only that it wasn't as aesthetically pleasing as non-rusted calipers); however, a shop recently recommended replacing them for safety concerns. Some more background: I replaced the brakes ~3 years ago, so should I go ahead and replace them again or are brakes typically good for much longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T20:11:36.007" Title="Rust on Brake Calipers" Tags="|brakes|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17480" CreationDate="2015-09-07T00:03:46.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is caused by decompression valve problem in 650 engines prior June 2012. Only way to get rid of it permanently is to replace decompression valve, which fortunately is not a huge job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW bulletin about the issue: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gravesurrounds.com/bike/hotstart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gravesurrounds.com/bike/hotstart.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances of having hot start problems due decompression valve are higher when your battery is not 100% charged. If bike is not starting when hot, let it cool down, drive it home and connect the battery to a trickle charger overnight. (You can access '+' terminal by taking the seat off. Right hand side below the 'fake' fuel tank cover).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With full battery bike should start even when it is hot or at least reproducing the problem should be much more difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What goes wrong when bike doesn't start;&#xA;ECU feeds fuel to cylinder only when revs go above certain threshold which I think in G650 is 700 rpm. &#xA;Faulty decompression valve leaves compression in cylinder too high when engine is hot. This results extra load to starter motor during start and battery fails to turn starter motor fast enough to get engine to go over 700 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12096" LastEditorUserId="12114" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T21:39:07.207" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:39:07.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20893" CreationDate="2015-09-07T01:07:15.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aesthetics has little to nothing to do with how well calipers function. As long as the caliper pistons do their thing and don't leak, there's no issues keeping them. There are no safety concerns with them as well. Unless the shop can point out a mechanical problem with them, the rust will not pose any issue. You usually won't see anything more than surface rust anyway. This is usually cased from the heat burning away any paint which isn't heat resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only one way which rust may interfere with the operation of the caliper and that would be where the caliper slides. This would just entail &lt;em&gt;cleaning and lubing&lt;/em&gt;, but not replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T01:07:15.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20891" CreationDate="2015-09-07T01:44:21.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The block off plate replaces the plate which allows an air pump to pump air into the system to allow for better burn of the exhaust gasses (any fuel which may not have been burnt during the combustion process). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Motorsports-Smog-Block-Off-Plates-for-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Sport-Bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Graves Motorsports web page&lt;/a&gt; has to say about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The air induction system (AIS) burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once these are capped off the air injection system can be safely removed. These Smog Block Off Plates are made from CNC'ed billet aluminum and feature the Graves Motorsports &quot;G&quot; logo. There are three reasons why you want to remove the air injection system from your bike; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra &quot;fresh air&quot; in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as installation goes, it seems pretty straight forward. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mq6Oqnwn5zI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; of how to get to the plates. There are several videos which cover the installation. This one does not go through the installation per se, but does show you where they are at and how to get to them (I think they didn't finish the entire video). Basically, the install calls for removing the seat, the side panels, propping up the gas tank, taking the velocity stacks off, taking off a heat shield, taking the air injection plates off, taking the air injection system out, replacing the air injection plates with the new plates, then reinstalling everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to what I could find, (besides what is already detailed above) one of the main reasons for installing these is to reduce popping during deceleration. Obviously, if you are removing them, the down side will be the possibility of greater emissions at the tail pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T01:44:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20938" CreationDate="2015-09-07T02:32:45.890" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 93 VW Cabriolet (Mk1 Golf/Rabbit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was parked with the engine on lowering the hydro/electric roof when the engine and power cut out. I couldn't restart the car so checked the battery and fuses - all fine, so I tried again. This time the car did start but now is idling very low, sputters a bit and the tacho twitches. Feels fine to drive - this seems to just happen at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I blown some electrics? Fuel pump relay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T23:01:49.333" Title="Low idle and tacho twitching after electrical cut out" Tags="|electrical|golf|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T04:17:03.600" Score="3" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mazda shuts off when I apply the brakes. Can anyone help me with this problem. It idles just fine but when I apply the brake to put it in reverse it bogs down and completely shuts off. What could be the reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12097" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:31:27.870" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:31:27.870" Title="2000 mazda 626 v6" Tags="|brakes|idle|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T09:10:48.100" Score="3" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;My toyota altezza is cutting off randomly while driving. I have not been able to purposely reproduce the problem, which makes diagnosis difficult. I am looking for any advice in diagnostics, or parts to test first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will run normally 99% of the time. Without warning, the electrical cuts out and the engine stalls. This has happened at low speed and highway speed, while turning or while going straight down the road. There are no engine error codes, no dash warning lights, and no other indication of what occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each incident, the car can usually be restarted immediately. Twice, I got a single &quot;click&quot; and no start -- turning the key off and trying again started the car in both of those occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been suggested that I check the wiring harness, which I have done by aggressively wiggling and pulling on various engine connections and wires while the car is running -- no results. It has also been suggested that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty or the harness is damaged. Visually, there are no problems with the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12101" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T10:43:45.413" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T10:43:45.413" Title="toyota altezza cutting and maintenance" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T21:37:39.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-09-07T11:00:18.890" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PEAK'S GLOBAL LIFETIME ANTIFREEZE IS THE WAY TO GO AND DISTILLED WATER!  ONLY A FEW DOLLARS MORE PER GALLON FOR THE NEWEST FORMULA AND L I F E T I M E!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIFETIME-UNTIL THE COOLING SYSTEM EXPERIENCES A NEED FOR A PART REPLACEMENT AND HAVE TO DRAIN THE SYSTEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THIS IS THE LATEST COOLANT VERSION AND YOU CAN'T FIND IS FOR SALE IN MANY AUTO STORES BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO KEEP BUYING THE 3 YR OR 5 YR STUFF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NAPA HAS IT IN STOCK, WALGREENS HAS IT IN THE 50/50 MIX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THE 5 YEAR STUFF IS TOO SIMILAR IN FORMULA TO THE DEXCOOL DEATHCOOL FOR MY COMFORT LEVEL AND SOME PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED SOME PROBLEMS WITH IT....WHEN PUT IN VEHICLES DECADES OLD OR LEFT IN TOO LONG OR IN A SYSTEM WHERE AIR INTERACTS WITH IT BECAUSE THE SYSTEM BECAME LOW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 YEARS FLIES BY AND YOUR TIME IS VALUABLE, WHO HAS TIME TO CHANGE COOLANT IN ALL THEIR VEHICLES EVERY 5 YEARS AND WHAT IF YOU FORGET...??!&#xA;SAVE YOUR TIME AND MONEY AND GO WITH THE LIFETIME IS WHAT I'M DOING.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ALSO MARK WITH A PAINT PEN OR OTHER LABEL THE TYPE OF COOLANT YOU'VE INSTALLED SO NO ONE FORGETS OR ADDS-TOPS OFF WITH A DIFFERENT TYPE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CHECK IT OUT AND NEVER HAVE TO LOOK BACK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12102" LastEditorUserId="12102" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T11:12:39.137" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T11:12:39.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20898" CreationDate="2015-09-07T11:51:28.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be due to vacuum or electrical. The breaks are equipped with a vacuum power booster. If the power booster is broken it could induce a very large vacuum leak when you hit the breaks. Try clamping off the hose that is between the power booster and the intake manifold with a set of needle nose vice grips or a hose pinch off tool. If the car stops stalling then you need a new power booster and if it does not then look at possible electrical causes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T11:51:28.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20882" CreationDate="2015-09-07T12:05:54.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a regular car the radiator and condenser are usually directly on top of each other and have only a single fan for both. In 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L the hood areas is so wide that the radiator and condenser are next to each other and each has their own fan. See picture.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBkC8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBkC8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The radiator should have a mechanical fan that sits in the middle and the condenser should have an electric fan that cools just the condenser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T12:05:54.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20893" CreationDate="2015-09-07T12:28:30.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would disagree a little with @Paulster2.  Rust can build up behind the rubber dust shield and even the piston seal and cause the piston to stick rather than slide in and out.  This will cause the brakes to stick on slightly and cause heating of brake disc and maybe pulling to one side. I have seen this on a number of vehicles, but does depend on the design of the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T12:28:30.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20912" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:03:30.537" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1211-low-impedance-vs-high-impedance-fuel-injectors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Hot Rod article&lt;/a&gt;, I understand that low-impedance injectors run higher current and open and close faster than high-impedance equivalents. The heating effect of the higher current also results in hotter fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the engine revs to the moon (say 15K RPM) I don't see the benefit in swapping out high-impedance injectors for low-impedance ones. Why do people do this then on the engine mod scene? Is there something I'm missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:36:42.617" Title="Are low-impedance fuel injectors just a placebo?" Tags="|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:13:09.360" Score="1" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trouble started popping out of 5th gear, then also 2nd gear, then all the gears. &#xA;Then it wouldn't go into gear, it would go in if I gave it gas, enough to get it home.  I was able to drive it to a shop, in 2nd gear, it would go into gear if I gave it gas.  The shop guy could not get it it go into gear and said it was stuck. &#xA;I tried to drive it home but it now wouldn't go at all.  I can move around the gears with the car off, but turn it on and try to go, it grinds, bucks and stalls.  Even in neutral.  I can push in the clutch, turn it on, but I can't let it out. In neutral it grinds, bucks then dies. I tried 1st, hard to get it in, but it acts the same as neutral.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The not going into gear happened all in one day, the popping out of gear happened all within one take of gas.  I've only filled it up once since I bought it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find a repair shop,that can tell me anything other than bring it in.  I have to have it towed so I want some idea of what kind of shop I should take it to.&#xA;Two shops said it's the clutch, one 12 hours of labor, the other 15, one shop said, 115 to tell me if it's worth fixing.  How can he tell without taking it apart?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What should I do? Know any good transmission shops on Oahu? Is it replace the transmission and the clutch and the trnsmission cables? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12105" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:36:50.543" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T03:56:16.700" Title="2005 Mini Cooper manual transmission stuck in between gears" Tags="|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20907" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:14:51.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see much benefit in them either. When you install any after-market injectors, you update the ECU maps to accommodate the latency of the new injectors and never worry about it again. As long as they open and close fast enough so that you can get enough fuel into the cylinder prior to each combustion stroke, it doesn't matter what their latency is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T13:14:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20907" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:11:35.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps with very clever mapping they can be pulsed as opposed to simple opened and closed leading to better atomization of fuel.  Other than that, I can't see much clear advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:11:35.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20908" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:13:32.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me as if your throwout bearing isn't disengaging the clutch enough. If this is a hydraulic clutch, either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder at the throwout is failing - more probably the master cylinder. If that car is like all too many cars these days, you'll need to replace the entire set as one unit - not just the offending part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:13:32.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20907" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:36:42.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, I believe people put low impedance injectors in their vehicles because &lt;em&gt;that's what everyone else does&lt;/em&gt;. They are just &quot;keeping up with the Jones'&quot; in the pseudo-high performance world. Most applications &lt;em&gt;will not require them&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons which might require a low impedance injector:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine has to rev very high (as you mentioned)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a high impedance injector will not flow enough fuel for your needs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car doesn't need them for these purposes, you probably don't need them in your car. The down side to low impedance are two fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since they have a higher amperage rate to utilize, they create more heat, which is transferred right into the fuel (since fuel is what cools injectors).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your ECU is made for high impedance injectors, you have to run resistor packs in order for the injectors to work, which provides another fault location in your vehicle. NOTE: You can have new drivers installed on some ECUs to allow them to work with low impedance injectors. If your ECU is OEM, you'll most likely not be able to do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:36:42.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20857" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:47:05.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I begin I must say that any accident of any degree cannot be diagnosed on-line and definitely needs to be taken to a mechanic for through inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However , based on your description I have a few points which might be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your exhaust got louder and you experience loss of power check if the exhaust is not damaged, If it has cracked then the sound will increase multi folds and you will experience a loss of power especially in motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chain might have started to rattle due to the collision to the rear wheel might have nudged the rear wheel slightly forward introducing chain slack and on acceleration the noise probably near the front sprocket.(Again contributing to loss of power)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In most motorcycles the ECU detects an accident and it cuts the fuel supply to the engine the moment the bike falls on its side to avoid spilling over the engine bay and causing fire. If your stalling problem continues then take it to a garage to check the overall components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional checks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting rear ended is one of the worst accidents on a bike, check for and cracks or bends in the chassis of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the alignment and bends ( It will not be noticeable until you drive on uneven surface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the brake lines and hoses and also any damage to the Rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the front fork has developed a bend(highly probable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:47:05.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36742" CreationDate="2015-09-07T15:06:49.070" Score="8" ViewCount="12565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed the battery on my 98 Mazda 626 and now the battery light comes on and stays on after starting the car.  I checked the battery and it's reading 12.8v with the engine off, and 13.8 with the engine on.  Another time I tested it it showed 14v while running and the battery light was not on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xgikeXt91vM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diode test as per Paulster's comment&lt;/a&gt;, and it showed 1 in one direction and -1199 in the other direction, which seems within spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't do this with the old weak battery, or at least I didn't notice it.  I just washed the engine compartment with degreaser, a brush and a water hose, but kept the battery, alternator and distributor covered - not sure if that's relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT April 7th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this problem has occurred again.  Everything was fine at 14.21 volt for awhile, then I went for my inspection.  During the emissions part they hook up to the battery posts.  As they were disconnecting, the battery light came on, but went back off after a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then today, I revved the engine hard, it stumbled and almost died, then the battery light came on.  Got out to check and saw 13.75 volts, with a reading of between 0.02 to 0.04 volts between the negative terminal and the alternator casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking maybe there is a problem with the connection to negative post, and both these events jostled it enough to cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the negative post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Ih9x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Ih9x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm going to try and clean the connector and maybe sand the inside of it to see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2: April 7th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so cleaning and sanding down the inside of the connector and the post didn't help.  I wonder if these two events might have caused some of electrical surge that screwed up a diode somewhere or something strange like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT April 8th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the tension on the alternator belt and it seems to be in spec.  I also checked voltage between the B+ post and the negative battery terminal and it's also about 13.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T07:03:16.970" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T17:48:19.327" Title="Battery Light Won't Go Off Since Changing Battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|mazda|warning-light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7922" CreationDate="2015-09-07T16:20:49.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pick the &quot;flexible&quot; engine, in the above chart, because in the 1000 to 2500 rpm range it has up to 30% more hp and in the 2500 to 4500 rpm range it has up to 15% more HP. Why do I prefer this? Because 99% of the time I will be within these RPM ranges, the engine will be producing more horsepower without a lot of noise or fuss, with better engine longevity - the engine will be producing more power at a lower RPM hence less engine wear, and finally there is more instant acceleration when I need to accelerate without having to change down a gear every time, which I would have to do in the peaky engine. Though not often stated, an engine with double the torque at a specific RPM has double the HP at that same RPM. The question is do you prefer to have the HP when the engine is at screaming high RPM or do you prefer to have it when the engine is running at more moderate RPMs. Trouble is a lot of people look at the peak HP figure and think that will determine how strong the engine feels/accelerates at the RPMs most people drive at (that is the 1500 to 4000 RPM range), and will often be disappointed. Those who argue the peaky engine (with higher peak HP) is better, will often be those who don't mind reduced engine life, higher noise. My 10 year old son, thinks cars with broken mufflers are the &quot;sportiest&quot; and coolest. I think one's engine choice above will often be determined by which category one falls into, those categories being the &quot;coolness&quot; versus the &quot;sensibility&quot; category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12106" LastEditorUserId="12106" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T23:10:49.073" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T23:10:49.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14559" CreationDate="2015-09-07T16:49:13.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The balls do not &quot;click from side to side&quot;.  As the balls shrink due to wear they are no longer thick enough to prevent the bearing spacer from hitting the joint housing as it passes by the housing. a joint with proper specs will not click at all, even when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12108" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:49:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20921" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:00:55.390" Score="8" ViewCount="2110" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine speed in my petrol car drops below about 650-700 RPM - the normal idle speed - it starts to shake and judder. This could be because say, I didn't give enough gas when pulling away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it run really badly and shake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, what determines the idle speed in design?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I want to know why engines run badly when the idle speed is lower, and how the idle speed of an engine is determined when it is designed, not why it stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T21:08:14.077" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:31:31.620" Title="Why do engines run badly below the normal idle speed?" Tags="|engine|idle|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20924" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:05:51.643" Score="3" ViewCount="1947" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do the lengths of the bore and stroke affect the performance (power and torque), and general running characteristics (e.g. redline, noise etc) of a 4 cylinder engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: When asking this question, I mean engines with the same displacement, just different dimensions to get this displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T23:45:05.780" Title="How do the bore and stroke affect the characteristics of an engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20919" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:07:01.690" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T18:07:01.690" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:07:01.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20920" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:07:01.690" Score="0" Body="Use this tag when asking questions about the theory of engines. Do NOT use for practical problems, only theoretical questions" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T18:57:31.293" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:57:31.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20917" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:10:51.510" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine does not rotate smoothly. The crank shaft is actually constantly speeding up and slowing down. This is most easily seen in a single cylinder engine. The power stroke is the only time the engine is under power. The other three phases are completely unpowered. This means that the engine needs to store enough power in something to get it through the unpowered phases. This is normally done with the flywheel and harmonic balancer. They have a high enough mass that when they are sped up by the power stroke they will keep the engine spinning util the next power stroke comes around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This action limits the lowest speed of the engine because if enough energy is not stored in the flywheel then the engine has a hard time making it to the next power cycle. The reason there is not enough energy is because to get the engine to spin slower and slower you add less and less fuel. Eventually you reach that limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:10:51.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:16:27.297" Score="4" ViewCount="1670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Town and Country and the automatic van door will not open. At least one problem is a broken plastic part that holds the thin wire in place which pulls the door open. I am attaching a picture of this part (obviously this is the one on the other side that is not broken; the broken one ended up in pieces). I am hoping that I can simply replace this part, put the wire back in, and be good to go. If anyone can tell me what the part number is I would appreciate it; I cannot seem to track is down online. In addition, if anyone had the same problem and has any advice I would also appreciate that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiktK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiktK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part I need&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T14:15:00.173" Title="Chrysler Town and Country Van Door" Tags="|door|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20918" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:19:55.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the stroke increases the torque of the engine climbs because the connecting rod is attached further from the center-line of the crankshaft. This also limits the maximum RPM of the engine because there are increased friction losses due to increased speed of the piston at the same RPM when compared to an engine with less stroke. Further because of this increased speed piston experiences greater momentum which is harder to control at high RPM and requires stronger crank, connecting rods, piston pins, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This decreased RPM capacity normally results in a lower horse power because power is a function of both torque and RPM. The exact opposite happens if an engine is destroked. The maximum RPM rises, the horse power rises all at the cost of bottom end torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T23:45:05.780" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T23:45:05.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20929" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:11:01.413" Score="8" ViewCount="47802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the taillight/brake light on my car, and it's a bulb with two filaments (known as &lt;em&gt;12V P21/5W&lt;/em&gt; - see pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has two taillights on each side. A standard &lt;em&gt;5W&lt;/em&gt; bulb for the top half, and the bottom one also doubles as a brake light when you use the brakes. So if you have the lights on, it lights up like the top half of the taillight (a normal 5W bulb) but when you press the brakes, it also lights up the other filament (maybe both at the same time? I'm not sure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fBEsA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fBEsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, since it's connected like a normal light bulb, how does it know which filament to light up? Does it depend on how much power is provided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47428" OwnerDisplayName="cantsay" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T22:17:23.343" Title="How does a lightbulb with two filaments know which one to light up?" Tags="|lights|electrical|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:12:31.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of light bulb has are more than two contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ndim" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:12:31.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:15:37.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ndim said, this light is probably not connected like a normal light bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it was (which is possible), it could have a power FET or some other sort of switch. That way, if enough power was put through, it would switch on and allow current through the second filament as well as the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="P Prog uzz Coderam Golflesming" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:15:37.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2015-09-07T18:32:25.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of light bulb has three contact and is keyed to only go in one way. The first contact is the silver portion of the base of the bulb with the knob. This is the ground and it also acts as the key. The knob on the other side is higher up and that only lets the bulb be installed in one orientation.  The other two contacts are on the black underside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:32:25.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2015-09-07T19:10:42.840" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical 1157 taillight bulb looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3BO9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3BO9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filaments have a common connected to the shell and the other end of each goes to each the two terminals on the bottom of the bulb. The bayonet pins are offset so the bulb can only be inserted one way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the 1157 bulb, the elements are 26.8W/8.3W, and have about a 10:1 difference in lumens (and about 1/4 the lifetime for the brighter brake light filament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12112" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T19:10:42.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T19:31:43.957" Score="1" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;A craftsman mower did not start at all.  I cleaned out the carburetor, cleaned the passages on the bowl bolt.  The air filter is clean, the fuel drips in a 1/8&quot; stream without the bowl attached.  After all of this, A few pulls will get the engine to start, and it has run as long as ten seconds or so before dying with a puff of blue-ish smoke.  The spark plug has a .03&quot; gap but looks a little oily.  I cleaned it up with little change in behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T21:04:53.453" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:13:22.720" Title="Small engine starts then stops" Tags="|carburetor|small-engine|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T19:36:58.010" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if the choke may be part of the reason I am having &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20930/small-engine-starts-then-stops&quot;&gt;trouble with my mower&lt;/a&gt;. It appears that there is very little force causing it to stay open or closed. I am wondering if there is a spring that should be holding it one way or another, or if is vacuum operated.  What could be the mechanism for actuating this thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T21:02:07.107" Title="How does the choke on my mower work?" Tags="|carburetor|small-engine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T15:13:53.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20935" CreationDate="2015-09-07T20:30:35.583" Score="2" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the last trip I made my car (Honda Civic 2004 Sedan VP) had trouble starting. It clicked as if it had trouble getting power but eventually started up although the key light was on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove home as it was late at night. Now when I put key in ignition and turn nothing happens at all. No lights, no power, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic mentioned when I was getting new tires that my spark plugs were going to need to be changed soon. I have also recently replaced battery a month ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if bad spark plugs could be the reason for this and would replacing them solve the issue? Also with the keylight turning on previously does this mean that my key needs to be reprogrammed at the dealership. I was able to drive with the light on previously and also have an additional key I have not tried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T12:41:13.947" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:41:13.947" Title="2004 Honda Civic, No Start, No Power, Key Light Previous Trip, Possible Spark Plug?" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T21:02:49.250" Score="2" ViewCount="2314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 454 engine in my cabin cruiser boat.  After operating at normal cruising speed for 20 minutes or so a spark plug was blown out of the engine, with the center electrode melted, and the rest of the plug left in place.  I replaced that plug, checked the others and they were fine.  The next time out, the same cylinder, brand new spark plug blew out again, same deal, melted electrode and the whole center of the plug blown out of the engine.  It has a mercruiser electronic ignition.  Any Ideas??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12115" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T21:10:14.083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T21:10:14.083" Title="Spark plug blown out of engine in one cylinder, twice." Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-28T13:32:28.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20932" CreationDate="2015-09-07T21:06:22.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs will certainly not be causing this problem. Check the battery connections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some garages will carry out battery checks for free, so this is an easy way of getting the connections checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T02:54:31.390" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:54:31.390" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20937" CreationDate="2015-09-07T21:15:46.897" Score="6" ViewCount="6022" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the manual for my 2003 Opel Agila it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not start by pushing or towing, Your vehicle is fitted with a catalytic converter, it must NOT be started by pushing or towing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why &amp;amp; how would starting my car in this way damage the catalytic converter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a serious risk of damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T04:28:20.453" Title="How does push starting damage the catalytic converter?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20936" CreationDate="2015-09-07T21:29:39.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;unburnt fuel can damage the catalytic converter.  By tow starting the car you could cause large amounts of unburnt fuel to be pushed through the engine and into the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T21:29:39.663" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20897" CreationDate="2015-09-07T23:01:49.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to check the engine bay while the car was running and immediately noticed a bright continuos spark on one of the battery terminals. Turned of car and went to fix it but the terminal was almost red hot and burnt my fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I managed to clean the terminal again and tighten some of the wiring eyelets (ammeter connection) that were attached to it. Cars been running fine since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T23:01:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20944" CreationDate="2015-09-08T01:47:18.307" Score="6" ViewCount="113944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a 3000 Watt invertor wired to a 100ah sealed deep cell battery that I trickle charge at night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to run #6 wire from the battery in the engine to the spare battery so the alternator can charge it too, but is this going to put too much strain on the alternator?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12117" LastEditorUserId="12117" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T03:16:29.670" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T06:34:54.717" Title="Is it safe to charge two batteries off of one alternator?" Tags="|battery|alternator|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20939" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:00:00.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues here. The first is if both batteries are low on charge then that would be too much for the alternator, but if only one is low then it would be fine. The second thing is linking the batteries will cause more  problems. If you run the inverter from battery in the back then you run them from both. If you crank the engine from the front battery then you crank the engine from both. When you trickle charge the back battery then you trickle charge both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some isolator options you can look into but a big fat relay can do the same job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:00:00.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20936" CreationDate="2015-09-08T04:28:20.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is counterintuitive: Lean mixtures at high exhaust flow rates can damage a catalyst.  The most common condition for this is the engine running out of fuel. But push starting could put the catalyst in the same condition.  How this works it that the lean mixture does not burn in the cylinder but does in the catalyst if it is hot enough. It is the same process as misfire. The catalyst sees much more unburned fuel than it can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T04:28:20.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20945" CreationDate="2015-09-08T06:36:43.143" Score="1" ViewCount="29032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the exact difference between mineral engine oil and synthetic engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it advised to use mineral oil for the engine when the bike is new and later switch to synthetic oil when the bike has done considerable number of Kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10906" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T15:29:26.510" Title="Difference between mineral engine oil and synthetic engine oil" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-09-08T10:06:36.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20939" CreationDate="2015-09-08T07:35:50.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car alternator will be more than capable of charging two batteries. However you need to be more careful about connecting two batteries together if one is charged and the other is not.  There will be no current limiting in the circuit, so you could easily exceed the manufacturers maximum charging current of the flat battery.  Also to be careful of is if you did leave the spare battery connected while starting, it could be possible to try and draw a very large current from the spare battery which could burn out the wires to it if they are not capable of carrying the current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T07:35:50.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20939" CreationDate="2015-09-08T07:53:02.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most effective way to charge an additional battery from a single alternator is by use to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-charge_diode&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Split Charging&lt;/a&gt; setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy kits from various sources and they are common amongst both campers, where a leisure battery is maintained and competition audio enthusiasts (ICE cars) whereby several heavy duty batteries to drive additional amplifiers make up part of the cars sound system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a split charging diode in the circuit you have nothing to isolate your batteries and prevent strange behaviours as one battery approaches full charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T07:53:02.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20942" CreationDate="2015-09-08T10:05:16.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral Oil is naturally occuring oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They provide the least protection to engine components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They need to be changed often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cant withstand high temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point number 1 is the reason why mineral oil is recommended for break in periods since it allows the engine components to wear and set in more comfortably in other words , due to its poor protection the engine components wear perfectly like the cylinder bore for optimum engine break in procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic oils can be a amalgamation of man made oil + mineral oil or fully man made oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are the best, they provide highest level of protection for engine components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much more smoother engine compared to mineral oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lasts much longer than mineral oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Little bit expensive compared to mineral oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can withstand high temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic oil has two further classifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi synthetic &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully synthetic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Semi synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; oils are usually blended from Group 3 base oils (group 3 is a lower spec base oil which is made by using a process called ‘hydro-cracking’ to convert natural oil into suitable base oils). Some better quality semi synth oils can contain some Group 4 base oils (group 4 base oils are completely man made, synthetic base oils made from various blends of chemicals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fully synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; oils are blended using Group 4 base oils (which are man made, synthetic bases blended from various chemicals). Fully synthetic oils are blended with various different additive packs to obtain the required viscosity (e.g. 10w40) and characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic/fully synthetic oils do not allow engine components to wear as much as mineral oil thus they are not suitable during break in periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="28709" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T15:29:26.510" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T15:29:26.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:41:38.500" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to metalworking, am teaching myself and am practicing making a motorcycle fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have managed to get a nice double curve in the sheet metal. However, this diminishes when I try to reduce the hammer blow marks during the planishing process - the metal begins to straighten out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone have any tips on how to stop this from occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" OwnerDisplayName="MeltingDog" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T12:58:07.810" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:58:07.810" Title="Metalwork: How can I maintain a curve during the planishing process?" Tags="|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2015-09-08T12:01:28.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a round backing object? My friend the armorer (as in steel plate) had a variety of objects for the backing, including an 8 inch solid steel ball welded to a stake (you probably won't need one of those if you re not making helmets.) The other trick is to not hit precisely on the point of contact with the backing object, but &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; off to one side. But if you planish with a flat backing it will make things flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bodywork (automotive) a handheld backing is called a dolly, and again, an appropriately shaped one will help maintain the shape. Also, there comes a point where you move to a grinder (flap discs, for a start.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:01:28.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20954" CreationDate="2015-09-08T16:31:33.003" Score="2" ViewCount="2416" Body="&lt;p&gt;My timing chain cover does not use a solid gasket, instead it relies on gasket maker, which is caulk-like paste.  The cover is fastened by something around 20 bolts.  I am curious how bad can it be if the gasket maker gets in some of the holes, impeding the bolt grip/torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T23:36:51.413" Title="Is it bad if gasket maker gets into bolt holes?" Tags="|fastener|gasket-maker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2015-09-08T17:00:15.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get lots in and put the bolts in, it is possible that you could crack the head/block around the bolts. A very small amount shouldn't do any harm, but could possibly affect the torque setting. Best not get any in, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T17:09:24.967" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T17:09:24.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2015-09-08T17:00:36.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem at 60 plus miles an hour it shook really bad and looking back it was a minor shake at lesser speeds but was tolerable.  I had one tire that was an older directional tire and changed it out for the spare that matched the other tires. Problem solved. The car feels perfect. Make sure it is not the tires or wheels first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12122" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T17:00:36.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20952" CreationDate="2015-09-08T22:13:49.533" Score="5" ViewCount="25849" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every automatic transmission car I've driven (not sure if all do this) allow you to shift from Reverse to Neutral and from Neutral to Drive (and therefore Reverse all the way to Drive) without pressing the brake or hitting the little shift lock on the gear selector. However, it doesn't let you go the opposite direction from Drive to Reverse, or Reverse to Park, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4048/switching-from-reverse-to-drive-always-stop-completely&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; if you don't stop completely before shifting its possible to damage your transmission. Some cars apparently mitigate this damage but it still seems strange to even allow the opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would car designers give you the feature to shift from reverse to drive without hitting the brake of it can cause damage? Even if it didn't cause damage why would they not allow you to shift in the reverse order without braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note I'm not asking &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; this is done, I'm asking &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; it is like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12124" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T23:49:51.297" Title="Why do cars allow you to shift from Reverse to Neutral/Drive without brakes?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20951" CreationDate="2015-09-08T23:28:16.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have reference for this, but believe the reason for the positive lockout going from drive to reverse is so you don't &lt;em&gt;accidentally&lt;/em&gt; shift from drive to reverse while at speed. Can you imagine going 60 mph down the road and dropping it from drive into reverse? You can expect catastrophic consequences for your transmission if you were to do this. If there weren't a positive lock to bring it out of drive going to reverse, how easy would it be for you to accidentally move the shift lever (considering a floor shift lever) from drive if it wasn't in place. Also consider driving down the road at that speed and punching it up into reverse. You would not only be putting your own life in danger, you'd be putting everyone around in you danger with the very real possibility of a wreck in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;em&gt;belief&lt;/em&gt; is that &lt;strong&gt;you can go from reverse to drive without stopping is for convenience sake&lt;/strong&gt;. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; very likely you can damage the transmission by not stopping the vehicle between reverse to drive shifting (we used to call this a neutral drop in days of yore). The difference here is the speed at which you are moving when going in reverse is not that great. You most likely are not going to &lt;em&gt;accidentally&lt;/em&gt; move the shift lever down from reverse into drive. I'm not saying it won't happen, but even if you did, the damage would not be as instantaneous as it would be going in the opposite direction. There is also a lot less possibility of a wreck at those speeds, so that is a consideration as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T23:28:16.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20951" CreationDate="2015-09-08T23:28:26.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is simpler then you might think. You are allowed to pull the gear shifter into neutral regardless of where it is pulled from to disengage the transmission. This is for safety, to be able to stop a runaway car regardless of if it's in drive or reverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to pull the car into drive from neutral comes form the occasional need to limp a car along when it's having engine troubles. The engine can only be started in in park or neutral. When your in neutral you can still be rolling along and trying to start and engine. When the engine starts then the shifter can be smoothly pulled into gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T23:28:26.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2015-09-08T23:36:51.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not going to bother it too badly. It can cause issues if you get too much into a hole. As was already stated, this can cause breakage of the block. It's called &lt;em&gt;hydraulicing&lt;/em&gt;. I don't think you could get enough torque on these smaller bolts you are talking about to cause you any issues as the bolt would break off before it would get that tight. I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; worried about there being a small amount in this type of application. It's mainly a problem with larger bolts such as head bolts which can stand a lot more torque. Also, it doesn't usually happen with gasket maker, but if you have too much oil in the hole it can surely happen (with the larger bolts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, what happens is you have filled in the bolt hole with the liquid. When you put the bolt into the hole and force it down, the liquid does not compress, so the pressure has to go somewhere. It will find any avenue it can, so can possibly cause problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some instances you &lt;em&gt;want to have sealant in the holes&lt;/em&gt;. Holes in the block which enter into the water jacket need to be sealed. The only way you can do this is with sealant (place a small amount on the threads so it encompasses the entire bolt). This does not affect the torque of the bolt to any great extent, so there is no issue there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T23:36:51.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20991" CreationDate="2015-09-09T03:40:37.317" Score="2" ViewCount="2197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im planning on putting a small block v8 motor into my mustang. The problem I am facing right now is knowing how much torque and horsepower my transmission (4R70W) can stand. The junk yard sells motors for $200 my budget is $2000. My plan is to find a good block and replace most of the internals (bearings, camshafts, lifters, pistons, maybe crankshaft, etc) I imagine going through replacing most of the internals, can drastically increase the horse power of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to give me advice, motor swap suggestions etc. I live in oklahoma so we don't have harsh emission laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="44913" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T05:47:43.603" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T05:47:43.603" Title="2000 mustang v6 engine swap?" Tags="|engine|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20851" CreationDate="2015-09-09T04:28:27.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try removing some with a specific gravity checking bulb with glass tube. If you don't have one a simple plastic hypodermic syringe (50ml) will do the trick. Do not keep the acid in the syringe for a long time though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T04:28:27.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T04:41:15.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1077" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car makes this tapping noise (chain like tapping noise) and  (most noticeable) when driving up hill, or at low speeds under a load. Another that has started to happen after this issue, is a type of pressure releasing sound and almost like something is slowing down right after I turn the engine off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video on youtube of a another mustang that is having the same exact tapping noise as I am &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqJm7VNu5dc&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqJm7VNu5dc&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive seen alot people saying its the camshaft sychronizer bearing going bad. Any thoughts? &#xA;Ps, I just found this, could this be why? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pss these are some comments from the people in the video &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sweat504 9 months ago&#xA; Camshaft synchronizer ,exactly what mine did installed it boom fixed it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tony Patterson 2 years ago&#xA; i have the same problem , i have replaced water pump,power steering pump,oil pump,harmonic balancer,timing chain tensioner,new belt,new plugs and still knocking,does anybody have a f##king clue,ive spent 1300.00 chasing this knock,i can buy a rebuilt motor for 1500.00, anybody know what the fix is???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T07:24:55.947" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T07:24:55.947" Title="2000 mustang v6 3.8l tapping noise camshaft sychronizer bearing or timing chain?" Tags="|maintenance|automatic-transmission|mustang|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T12:17:14.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T05:40:25.960" Score="3" ViewCount="11942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had one of the camshaft position actuators on my '07 Pontiac G6 go bad.  The symptom was a sort of &quot;hard-shifting&quot; that made me think something was wrong with the transmission.  Luckily, it's a common problem with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an easy solution&lt;/a&gt; that I was able to do myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only question is &lt;strong&gt;Why would hard shifting be the symptom of non-ideal camshaft operation??&lt;/strong&gt;  Obviously, this is why we have OBDII codes :), but there &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; to be some intuitive understanding of what's going on there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ready for my powertrain lesson...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12133" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T13:38:44.940" Title="Why is the symptom of a bad camshaft position actuator hard-shifting?" Tags="|transmission|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20968" CreationDate="2015-09-09T07:02:22.090" Score="10" ViewCount="11024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my tail lights stay on even with no keys in the ignition, but that my brake lights have stopped working.  Also, my left turn signal blinks double speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I remove the fuse for the brake lights then the tail lights go off, but if I turn the light switch on, the tail lights will come on.  When the brake lights fuse is removed the signal blinks at normal speed.  I also noticed that if I play with the tail light wire I can make the turn signal go on ( but not blink ), and the tail light off, or visa versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a wiring diagram I see the tail light and brake light share a ground wire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EiMWy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EiMWy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the tail lights and brake lights are shorted together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 99 Nissan Almera 1.6 GX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 8th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come back to this problem and found that, indeed the brake switch doesn't seem to be making contact, and if I remove the switch and depress the button on it manually, the tail lights go out. But of course the question I have to figure out is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;why is the brake switch operating the tail lights instead of the brake lights&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I removed the brake light fuse, disconnected the brake light switch connector and took a length of lamp cord to test continuity with my multimeter. I'm pretty sure I'm doing the continuity tests correctly. There was continuity from the switch connector to the brake lights, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; from the switch connector to the tail lights.  Strangely, there was no continuity between the brake light fuse pin and the brake lights.  However, there was power on the other brake fuse pin even though the brake switch was disconnected, and the keys were in my pocket.  I bridged from the brake fuse pin that had power on it to the brake wire and one of the brake lights lit up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this doesn't make a lot of sense to me.  I'm going to have to sit and think about this a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 20th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so it really was just the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.il/search?q=46584-S0100%20rubber%20stopper&amp;amp;client=ubuntu&amp;amp;hs=wX8&amp;amp;channel=fs&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiY56-BvYHOAhUJ6xoKHaMfCyQQ_AUICCgB&amp;amp;biw=1301&amp;amp;bih=641&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber stopper ( part# 46584-S0100 )&lt;/a&gt; for the break switch that had apparently disintegrated.  I got confused because the car has a combination tail / break light.  If the tail lights are already on, and you push the break in, it just makes the tail lights &lt;strong&gt;brighter&lt;/strong&gt; and turns on a high level break light strip on the trunk.  What I thought was part of the break lights system &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/1055/7132&quot;&gt;is actually a fog light&lt;/a&gt;, and that's why there is only a bulb in the left side housing and not one in the right side housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why there is electrical continuity between the break switch and the fog light I don't understand, but that's a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of my fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGXHD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGXHD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put a nut in between the brake pedal and the mounting point for the switch, and then screwed the bolt in from the back to hold it in place.  I should really probably add another nut on the opposite side to lock it in place, but I'm a bit tired of this problem at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T03:30:27.823" Title="Brake Lights Won't go On, Tail Lights Won't go Off" Tags="|nissan|lights|almera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2015-09-09T10:25:56.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most logical thing would be that the signals from the camshaft and crankshaft position actuators are used to &lt;strong&gt;synchronize the engine RPM with the gearbox, more specifically the throttle position&lt;/strong&gt;. Thus, when you don't have synchronization it should be more difficult to shift, although not impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact in the old trucks you need to push the clutch once to release the gear, then release it and push the throttle to increase RPM, so that it matches the RPM of the previous gear (which are higher), known as double-clutching.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="9827" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T16:44:41.080" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:44:41.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2015-09-09T10:26:45.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no intuitive understanding. The general rule of thumb is always fix any engine problems before blaming the transmission. The sensor data that the transmission uses comes from the engine. This includes but not limited to load, temperature, throttle position, etc... If this sensor data misleads the transmission in it's calculations then strange shifting problems are to come. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T10:26:45.783" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T12:49:25.700" Score="3" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I create a duplicate using the other key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12136" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:21:54.863" Title="I lost one of my Toyota axio 2015 smart keys. How can I create a duplicate using the other key?" Tags="|toyota|key|corolla|smartkey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20963" CreationDate="2015-09-09T13:02:11.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend faced a similar issue on his '03 Nissan Maxima. In his case we discovered that the brake pedal switch was not making any contact with the pedal linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch relies on contact with the linkage to break the brake light circuit. If there is no contact with the switch (like when the brake pedal is pressed) the switch will complete the circuit and turn on the brake lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were able to hack together a solution to ensure contact was made with the switch when the pedal was in the rest position. A small nut and bolt threaded through the slot in the linkage will work a treat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T07:48:51.007" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T07:48:51.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:22:40.237" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new windshield installed a few weeks ago...and now the wiper blade drivers side does not fully rotate to the left side...stops at about the 11:00 position should go to about 10:00 o'clock...any idea of how to correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12138" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:40:53.787" Title="Wind Shield Wiper not working" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20971" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:26:14.003" Score="4" ViewCount="5337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Honda Civic 2013 and have 37K miles on odometer. Haven't done 30K recommended service but i scheduled appointment with dealership. The detail service list is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Wheel Brake Service&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air Filter Replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake 4 Wheel Inspection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Injector Cleaner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi Point Inspection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace automatic transmission fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace cabin air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace engine coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace engine oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle Body Clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash and Vac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiper Blades (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The estimated cost is 425$ from dealership. Do you think if this is really required and the cost is reasonable? i also checked with automd and couldn't find few things in list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12137" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:49:20.543" Title="30K recommended service for honda civic 2013" Tags="|honda|scheduled-maintenance|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20970" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:49:20.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My list would not include: Fuel injection cleaner; use Top Tier certified fuel instead. Engine Coolant, too early for the new, better coolant chemistry. Throttle body clean, needed only if symptoms develop. The transmission fluid change interval sparks a debate in the repair industry. I err on the side of caution and change it every 30k miles with OEM fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T14:49:20.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20978" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:33:18.953" Score="3" ViewCount="3558" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am doing about 30-20mph, and am about to stop at a junction, where I know I will have to stop, I shift my car into first gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes when I do this, it makes a quick gear grinding noise when I shift. It lasts for about 1/2 a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this? Am I destroying my gearbox by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: I keep the clutch down until I am stopped! I don't shift into 1st at 30!&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm not asking why my engine is exploding! ;)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T17:13:30.883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:16:13.143" Title="Occasional Crunch/Grinding noise when shifting into first gear at speed" Tags="|shifting|gears|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20973" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20974" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:33:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20969" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:40:53.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wiper also goes too low on the windshield. Then the wiper just needs readjusted. Remove the wiper and turn it the amount to compensate for the misalignment and tighten it back down. There are lots of different types of cars and types of wipers, you may have to do some googling or require special tools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all actuality the people who replaced the windshield had to remove the wipers in the first place. Just take it back the ask to have the wiper readjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:40:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19771" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:44:43.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the car somewhere else for another opinion, as it sounds like this particular KIA dealership is trying to pull a scam. Pads typically last 30,000-80,000 miles depending on driving style, pad type, etc. So, replacing the brakes every year is not typical, especially with limited driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surface rust can appear on the rotors if they sit for a while, but this goes away after using the brakes a few times and does not impact pad/rotor life in any significant way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T16:44:43.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20972" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:52:42.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are down shifting you are using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine as a brake&lt;/a&gt;, however if you are down-shifting at very high RPM and your engine is revving, over time the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;synchronizer&lt;/a&gt; can be damaged, or it is already damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, to prevent further damage just use only your brake, if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: when I was taking my C category driving lessons, they told us that in the most cases when the vehicle is empty and/or on horizontal plane, we should always use the second gear to start motion. First gear is only kept for full load and inclined plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Addition after the question edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case you probably need clutch adjustment or change of clutch disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="9827" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T17:16:13.143" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:16:13.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15687" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:08:09.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, for all the temperature sensors (just a simple thermistors, i.e. resistors changing value according with the temperature):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If indication is: - Large Value, e.g. -40, the sensor is not connected and the circuit is open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If indication is: + Large Value, .e.g. +40, there is  short circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: even when you connect the sensor and correct the circuit, in some automobiles need to be reset, by connecting/ disconnecting the circuit several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:08:09.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20917" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:31:31.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of rotating parts in the engine, e.g. shafts, etc. Below idle they enter their &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Critical_speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;critical revolutions&lt;/a&gt;, then they start to wobble (Layman's term) and  you feel it inside, in some case in the trucks and tractors you can even see it from the outside, especially when they have troubles igniting the engine (then the whole vehicle is almost jumping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above can be reinforced by the non-periodic engine ignition, when cylinders are ignited at very low rates and they almost fire one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;To answer your second question after the edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle speed of engine is determined by the characteristics of the engine's largest rotating parts camshaft, crankshaft, etc(such that they avoid critical RPM's) and by cylinder number and arrangement, i.e. straight engine, V - engine, W - engine, Wankel - engine (their ignition sequences are different and there is a lower bound on the rate of firing of the cylinders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:31:31.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:10:48.020" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;1991 Nissan Sentra XE, 1.6L engine, 5-speed manual trans, 78k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unexpectedly had to stop driving this Sentra and it's been sitting unstarted in my garage for the past 6-years. It ran great, no apparent problems, very low mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a great car and now that I can drive it again, I want to &quot;recommission&quot; it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice varies--some say you must drain+replace all fluids; some say replace only gas and coolant; some say replace gas only if it smells bad and has turned to varnish; some say to only drop a little oil in the cylinders before starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this non-expert is confused. What is the minimum required to safely re-start this Sentra? I have a new battery; I'd like to re-start car and drive to repair shop for inspection. How can I do this without harming the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thx for info--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T22:35:38.463" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T22:35:38.463" Title="How to re-start Sentra after 6-yrs storage?" Tags="|nissan|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-09-10T12:32:14.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:36:15.343" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone knows if a 2004 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country supports Fuel Level over ODB2.  I have been unable to find a list of which vehicles do/don't support this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12142" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T22:14:28.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T22:14:28.697" Title="ODB2 Fuel Level 2004 Chrysler Town &amp; Country" Tags="|obd-ii|chrysler|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20982" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:12:05.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From memory I believe that it does although over OBD2 is rather vague. It requires a scan tool that can access the data from the gauge cluster. It won't be available in the standard OBD2 stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:12:05.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20981" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:19:02.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of oil in the cylinders and then turn the engine over by hand 3 or four times would be a great idea. Then change the oil. The coolant, as long as it's full can be changed at the garage. The gas after 6 years is toast no and ifs or butts about it. Drain what you can then fill the tank with fresh stuff. Don't forget to change the fuel filter after going through a full tank of fuel. Everything else can be done in a case by case basis, fix whats broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:19:02.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20967" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:21:54.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is you can't. A new key needs to be purchased and programmed at the dealer. There is no simple way around this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:21:54.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20930" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:11:22.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with my Craftsman mower. Turned out the needle valve was sticking. Once it started, I could tap the side of the carburetor with a small hammer and it would then keep running. Replaced the needle valve and it's been running fine all summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10764" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:11:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20873" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:18:26.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint pens are available at auto parts stores, they use them at salvage yards and the marks are nearly permanent (can be removed with alcohol). Personally I use Wite-Out from an office supply store. It's not as permanent as a paint pen, but lasts long enough to reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10764" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:18:26.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:20:56.670" Score="1" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced DIC, did a basic drive cycle to remove codes, but didn't remove codes. All my monitors are in ready state. The check engine lite was on, however, now it's off, I still show codes on scanner. O'Reilly's Auto Parts will not clear codes at this point, says do drive cycle. What am I doing wrong? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12143" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T22:25:57.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T04:16:04.130" Title="Drive cycle on 2001 Saab 95 with codes P1312 &amp; P1110" Tags="|emissions|saab|9-5|p1110|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19795" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:30:17.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a vacuum leak. Is it possible that in replacing the cold air intake, a gasket did not seat correctly or the install did not follow the correct torque sequence or values? Also check all the vacuum hoses that are attached to the intake. You can also isolate the spot by spraying carb cleaner around the intake with the engine cold but running and if there is a leak it will suck in the cleaner and effect the engine speed. In my experience a system lean code is almost always indicating a vacuum leak somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10764" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:30:17.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20997" CreationDate="2015-09-09T22:11:58.603" Score="4" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Miata soft-top. The top was recently cut open overnight. I used a bit of epoxy to glue it back together (rain was coming). Is there some type of typical procedure/kits to repair this type of canvas? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12144" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T22:15:22.433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T12:23:57.583" Title="How to repair cut/ripped convertible soft top?" Tags="|mazda|miata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20958" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:14:57.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this website, the torque capacity of the 4R70W is 700 lb-ft ... looks like Ford didn't skimp like Chevrolet did with their 4L60e, lol (about 400 lb-ft capacity). You should not have an issue with the transmission unless the transmission already has an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$2000 rebuild budget is what I'd consider a &lt;em&gt;budget&lt;/em&gt; rebuild budget. You really aren't going to get too far on that much money, especially with what you are considering to have done. While parts are going to be fairly reasonable, getting them into the engine is what's going to cost you the money ... ie: &lt;em&gt;machining costs&lt;/em&gt;. You'll do a lot better to get your engine, tear it down, mic all of the pertinent parts (bore, bearing journals), then figure out what you are going to need. If the engine is in good shape (no ring ridge, bearing journals just need cleaned up) you may be able to get away with doing it really cheap, by just replacing the rings and bearings. With most engines which are as cheap as you are suggesting, you'll not be that lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to buy an engine first before you start buying parts to throw at it as well. If you can get one which you can hear/see run, you'll be in even better shape (an engine take out from a private party might do you well). Also, since you are going from a V6 to a V8, don't count on being able to use the accessories. More than likely the new engine will not accept the V6 ones. This mainly has to do with how the serpentine belt lines up with all of the pulleys. If you can get a complete pull out (engine with all accessories, manifolds, and computer) you'll be in a lot better shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to factor in machine costs, you'll eat about 1/4 of that budget without even thinking about it (this really depends on the area you live in, though ... machine costs can vary in price by quite a bit -- but be careful -- machinist's abilities vary greatly as well). As a minimum, you'll want to do the following to ensure you have a good base to work with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The following mostly pertains to a cast iron block. You cannot do most of the following to an aluminum block with your budget constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the block magnafluxed to ensure no cracks are present in the block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bore and hone the block with torque plates (you'll need the pistons first to do this correctly ... each cylinder is directly mated to a piston to ensure proper final size is achieved). Standard over bore is +0.030 on most cast iron blocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Professional hot tank of the engine to get it completely clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New cam bearings and freeze plugs. You can possibly do this yourself, but getting them professionally done will ensure they are installed correctly ... most shops will put them in for you anyway as part of the hot tank procedure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn crank on both the main and rod journals. If the engine has never been opened, these will be turned .010 under. A side benefit of this is with smaller journals, you can actually make more horsepower due to less frictional losses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To do it right, with new pistons, you'll need to get your rotating assembly balanced. You can possibly get away without getting it balanced, but it isn't worth the aggravation to have to pull it all apart again to get an imbalanced fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have a press, you'll need to have the machine shop install the new pistons on the rods, unless you buy a full floating setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on doing the assembly yourself, ensure you have a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; torque wrench, along with all of the expendable parts you'll need prior to the start of your assembly. Things like three oil changes (plus an extra quart for miscellaneous) and filters, sealants, complete rebuild gasket set, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll need to get exhaust work done after the engine is in the car. You will find the old setup will not mate with the new. If you put headers on, there's another expense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the money you will be spending will not go far, even if you do most of the work yourself. I'm not saying you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do it, just doing it right with an eye towards longevity of your build will soak up a lot of $$. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After saying all of this, I'm sure I've left a few minor things out. Just be aware as you go through your build, you'll discover things you've forgotten to purchase. It's those unexpected purchases which will nickel and dime you to death in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T23:14:57.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24217" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:19:45.747" Score="7" ViewCount="1361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 BMW 120d LCI with N47 engine. Recently was diagnosed with some oil leak on the rocker gasket near the injector area. Were advised to change the rocker gasket seals. So I did change the gasket and after changing and refitting the common rail, high pressure fuel pipe, injectors, head cover etc... The engine wont start, it does crank but just wont fire up. One should mention the car starts and drives perfectly fine before gasket change...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We hook it up with the BMW INPA diagnostic and the DDE was given 3 error memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4A64 Gluhkerze Zylinder 1. Ansteuerung&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4A44 Gluhkerze Zylinder 3. Ansteuerung&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3EC0 Nockenwellensensor, Signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some translations: &#xA;3EC0 was the camshaft position sensor&#xA;4A64, 4A44 was the Glow plug cylinder 1 and 3, driving(triggering?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are confident that the camshaft position sensor did plug back in as all connectors are connected, not sure on glow plug as we never removed or even touch the glow plug on the respective cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex key for 4A64 were:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4A 64 21 00 00 00 FF 28 48 A6 00 00 40 00 00 00&#xA;&#xA;40 77 AC 02 00 00 00 3A EF 0C 00 0C 2B 0C 12 00&#xA;&#xA;00 80 10 00 01 45 00 5C 51 EA 06 60 71 23 1B 31&#xA;&#xA;42 8B B1 10 00 00 4F 48 F2 8B 0F 0C 2C 3E 27 00&#xA;&#xA;00 00 10 00 01 50 00 37&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex key for 4A44 were:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4A 44 61 00 00 00 FF 28 48 BD 09 B4 65 4D 3E 56&#xA;&#xA;49 91 B0 10 13 47 4E 3F EE 76 28 0C 2C 80 34 00&#xA;&#xA;00 00 10 00 01 4C 02 4A 51 EB 00 00 3A 00 00 00&#xA;&#xA;41 77 AF 80 00 00 00 3B EF 0C 00 0C 2B 64 12 00&#xA;&#xA;00 80 10 00 01 44 00 5A&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex key for 3EC0 were:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3E C0 21 00 00 00 01 28 51 EB 01 EB 3A 00 59 52&#xA;&#xA;41 64 AF 08 00 00 3B 3A 7F 0C 00 0C 2B 64 12 00&#xA;&#xA;00 80 10 00 01 43 00 79&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please could somebody shed some light on this matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12145" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T07:23:47.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T01:21:35.883" Title="Car can't start after rocker gasket change" Tags="|engine|bmw|diesel|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20988" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:16:04.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like proper OBD-II software behavior.  The CARB OBD-II rules state that for most trouble codes the check engine light should go off after two passed tests and then the codes should erase from memory after 40 passed tests. &#xA;The fact that the light has gone off on its own is a good sign that the repairs were correct. No need to clear the codes, just let the on board software resolve the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that OBD software logic has changed over time so it is important to know what year the vehicle was made.  In the first few years, 96-98, it was not uncommon for the software to not follow the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T04:16:04.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="759" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:51:25.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem, engine stopping.   Did all the things mentioned above.  Still not solved.  ended up removing fuel line, layin straight on jetty and poking thin stiff wire through.    Pushed out 3 inch long compacted alge that looked like a worm.  All runs well now and have installed a &quot;do it yourself&quot; fuel polisher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T05:51:25.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T08:43:30.353" Score="10" ViewCount="8537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used Skoda Fabia that is fitted with a parking assistant (reverse parking sensors) which does not seem to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual when I change into reverse it should either make a short beep (for everything alright) or a long beep (for &quot;parking assistant not working&quot;). Instead it makes no sound at all and the sensors also don't make a sound when there is an obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the fuse (5er fuse in slot 9), but it looks ok from what I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I can do myself before hitting up a repair shop? This is my first car and I have no knowledge about car mechanics, but am not afraid to learn and get my hands dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was checked shortly before I bought it but they found no problem. According to the family member I bought it from the parking assistant worked before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: As suggested, I checked if my rear driving lights work when I am in reverse. At least one side (back right) lights up, not sure if it should be two lights or if that's just normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE2: I finally checked some weeks ago. Doesn't seems to be the fuse. The multimeter showed power on both sides and the AC is wired on the same fuse and works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11137" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T23:29:39.953" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T09:34:36.130" Title="Skoda Fabia - reverse parking sensors not working?" Tags="|sensor|parking|electronics|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20990" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:23:57.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've known friends repair soft top damage like this using a tent repair kit purchased from a camping shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are pre-glued patches that cover the tear.  A lot less ugly than either stitching and gluing or gaffer tape.  Also, they stay stuck after the hood has been raised and lowered a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't perfect, you can still see the repair, but they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check that you get one suitable for a canvas tent, not one just for a nylon tent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T12:23:57.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T12:34:35.803" Score="6" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an Engineer, at a company that provides transportation related products and solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was asked to design an EV car charging station. I quickly realized that car charging lacks standardization between car makers (different plugs, voltages, amperages, communication with the car etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of some of the new standards related to the matter, but at least for the time being the car manufacturers do not seem to follow them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After discussing the matter with the project manager, I was told to design a charging station that will be able to charge as many cars as possible, taking into account the current market status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of any valid market share chart of the current electric cars in Europe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any compatibility list between different cars, regarding plugs or electrical characteristics? Or at least any list of manufactures that have already produced cars according to any standard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11140" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T15:17:53.883" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T15:17:53.883" Title="Electric car charging - what types of chargers are used, and how many of each?" Tags="|charging|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20998" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:33:03.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might I suggest you take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_62196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IEC 62196&lt;/a&gt; as a place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards model popularity, by far the most popular electric vehicle in the UK has been the Nissan Leaf in recent years.  The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How Many Left&lt;/a&gt; shows how many of each vehicle make and model are registered in the UK and it seems to indicate over 8000 are registered here, compared to just 4 Golf GTE's.  The Renault Zoe looks reasonable popular too with around 1500 registered.  Nissan and Renault being the same parent company would lead me to suspect that they use a common charging specification although it wouldn't surprise me if this was not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that How Many Left would be a good place to get headline figures for specific vehicles on your hit list but remember that this is based on UK only data and that the data is implicitly out of date as there is a delay in it being released by the government here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that other countries have similar websites so some searching may bear fruit for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T13:33:03.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:53:17.943" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used fix-a-flat to help prevent leakage - at least half a can per tire.  It works well.  Don't use the green slime product...that will mess up the balance of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12153" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:53:17.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:02:19.787" Score="4" ViewCount="31239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Chrysler 300m. A few days ago out of the blue my car cut off on its own and I was unable to start it for a few hours. I left it sit in the grocery store parking lot. Went back 3 hours later and it start right up. Five miles down the road it started overheating bad. It started to stutter and had a loss of power. The next day I took it to shop and was told that the water pump was going bad, the hose need changing, and the timing belt. The price was crazy so I took it to another well known shop. They did the work for half the price. They had the car running for 2 hours and it was fine. I picked it up from the shop and drove maybe 50 miles that evening and it was fine. This morning I drove it 15 miles and when I turned it off, I heard the boiling sound. After it cooled off it needed 4 large cups of water. I drove it home and it was boiling again. &#xA;The mechanic that did the work said the water was really nasty in the pump. I am so over not knowing if I will be able to get my kids to school. Thank you in advance for any responses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T22:06:01.243" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T20:26:18.847" Title="The coolant is boiling when I shut off engine" Tags="|coolant|chrysler|overheating|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:10:54.727" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;there was a ticking sound coming from my boyfriends truck Tuesday...once he had driven it for a little while the noise stopped...I asked him to check the oil and when he did, it was close to dry.  We put two quarts in and he ran it around the block and no noise.  On Wednesday he took it to work and on the way home the noise began again.  No warning lights of oil or over heating are appearing on the inside panels.  Once he drove a while, again the ticking stopped.  When he got home, he checked the oil and there was plenty.  He has not gotten an oil change in a very long time, my initial thoughts are possibly the filter is clogged and is not putting oil where it needs to be until the truck warms up and the pistons are being lubricated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any thoughts?????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12154" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T22:01:29.253" Title="Ticking in the engine" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21005" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:28:32.587" Score="4" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 98 Mazda 626 2L and I'd like to change the transaxle oil filter.  However, a number of the pan bolts are blocked by a beam which has an engine / transmission mount sitting on it ( see the following pictures ).  Is there a safe way to get this support out of the way so I can change the filter?  This is a different version than the American or European versions, and still uses the GF4A-EL transmission it seems like, not the CD4E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/56z2r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/56z2r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the engine mount in this other picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qF5Rz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qF5Rz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/832P2LM1yJQ?t=3m12s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video showing the removal of this support and the one further back which is perpendicular to it&lt;/a&gt;.  It's also a mazda ( not sure which one ) and the setup underneath looks exactly the same.  He doesn't put anything to support the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T18:45:50.740" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T14:37:00.097" Title="Safe Way to Remove Engine Mount Support?" Tags="|transmission|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21004" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:11:49.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe what you have pictured there is a &quot;dogbone&quot; or side engine mount. These mounts are intended to counteract the the rotational forces on the engine that result from the torque between the engine and the transmission. These mounts are not typically under and load when the engine is not running - it is the front and rear mounts that &quot;hold the engine up&quot;, as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it should be safe to remove this mount without having the engine shift. Nonetheless, you should still utilize safe practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a lift under the engine and raise it up to just under the engine pan. This will prevent the engine from dropping on the ground in the worse-case scenario&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Break' all the bolts on the mount - in other words, turn them about a quarter to a half turn counter-clockwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once all the bolts are broken, begin to slowly loosen one of the bolts. Is it coming out easy? Or is it getting harder to loosen the more it comes out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bolt get's harder and harder to loosen, then this indicates that the mount is indeed bearing some sort of load. This could be because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not a side-mount as I suspect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is slightly shifted onto that side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to check for number 2, try rocking the engine back-and-forth sideways a few times and  see if the bolt loosens up. If you can, have a friend hold the engine in a few different tilted positions in order to fully check if the bolt gets loose. If it does, then you can confidently take out all three bolts, with our without your friends help (it will be easier if your friend holds the engine in position). If tilting the engine does not relieve the strain on the bolts, then they are indeed holding the engine up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where the mount is holding the engine up, you will want to use the lift to relieve the load on the mount. Raise the lift up until it is just barely holding the weight of the engine. Continue to raise the engine slowly and keep trying the bolts until they become a bit easier to take out. If you lift the engine too high, it will only make it harder to take the bolts out. Your best bet is to raise the lift enough so that it is holding the weight of the engine, but has not lifted it appreciably. At this point, put a jack stand under the engine to ensure it does not fall. Now you can take out the mount and proceed with your repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, when you go to put the mount on, you will need to align the bolts back up. If it was a side mount, you can usually do this pretty easily yourself by rocking the engine back and forth while trying to start the bolts with your hand. Having a friend helps. If it is a load-bearing mount, then you'll have to raise/lower the engine until you can get the bolts started. This is harder because the hydraulic lifts are usually difficult to operate with fine control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T16:11:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21012" CreationDate="2015-09-10T16:44:05.397" Score="4" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently changed the oil and filter on my 84 Ranger 2.8L V6. I used 10w-30 dino oil and filled it in range on the dip stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that after I changed the oil, the oil pressure gauge (on the dashboard) would be in the 'middle' portion. Several weeks later, and now the gauge is hovering over the 'low' portion. Checked the dipstick and it was still filled with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the causes of low oil pressure when the dipstick says there's enough oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T21:51:53.310" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:52:14.493" Title="Oil pressure low on an 84 Ranger" Tags="|engine|ford|oil|oil-change|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:16:48.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ticking noise is probably a sticky lifter, push rod, or rocker arm. For a variety of reasons, one of these might momentarily lose contact with the other. The lifter touches the push rod, the push rod also touches the rocker arm, and the rocker arm touches the valve stem.  If any of these parts are &quot;sticky&quot; you can get a click.  When things warm up, the stickiness might go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual cause of the stickiness that is making things click might be harmless (rocker arm has extra play) or potentially deadly to the engine (no oil or bad oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what you've said, get an oil  and filter change NOW!  Oil should be changed at least every 5000 miles. Don't worry about getting Synthetic. That's for extending the oil life, and there's a lot of debate about that. What you need now is new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T17:16:48.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:37:20.193" Score="2" ViewCount="7811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can use short of &lt;code&gt;Helicoil&lt;/code&gt;, which I'm really hoping not to have to use, to make sure a bolt sits in its threaded socket in my engine block and torques to spec ?  The problem that I am having on my Tacoma is that there is a timing chain cover bolt which reaches the end of the hole but the hole threads (I made sure it is not the bolt by putting the bolt in another hole and trying to put another bolt in that hole) won't grip it tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will something like &lt;code&gt;thread locker&lt;/code&gt; be helpful ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:03:23.310" Title="Bolt reaches end of hole but threads don't grip" Tags="|fastener|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19509" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:14:30.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I should come back and reanswer this, for future googlers, because I found the cause of the &lt;code&gt;P0422&lt;/code&gt; error, and it wasn't the cat or O2 sensor at all!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while later, when I got another diagnosis, the computer was throwing a &lt;code&gt;P0411: Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected&lt;/code&gt; also.  As it turns out, a vacuum hose connecting to the SAI shutoff valve had come disconnected.  The hose was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimellissaabparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=409108&amp;amp;ukey_make=1032&amp;amp;ukey_model=14676&amp;amp;modelYear=1996&amp;amp;searchString=sai&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part #7 in this diagram&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reconnected it with a proper-sized hose and cleared the codes.  A day later, the check engine light went off, and I passed the emissions test!  Not to mention, I suppose I found the suspected vacuum leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T18:14:30.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21008" CreationDate="2015-09-10T20:14:16.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loctite thread repair product #: 28654 (also known as Form-A-Thread) may help your problem. I wouldn't suggest using it on a headbolt  but I think on a timing cover it would work. Basically it a filler material and a release agent. You fill the hole with one of the materials of the kit. The bolt is coated with a second material, a release agent that keeps the bolt from sticking to the filler. The bolt is inserted in to the filled hole. The bolt forms the threads. Once the filler material hardens the bolt is removed leaving the threads in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T20:14:16.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21006" CreationDate="2015-09-10T21:52:14.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the oil filter. I've seen many times where the oil filter will cause a reduction in oil pressure and flow. Sometimes you just get a bad filter. Replace it with a quality filter. I'm talking a Motorcraft (since you have a Ford), Wix, ACDelco, STP, etc. There is one orange one in particular which I'd stay away from as they can cause more issues than they'll ever cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:52:14.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:01:29.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as @BillN 's excellent answer, it could also be that there is an exhaust leak between one of the heads and the exhaust manifold. This often sounds like valve train noise or can even sounds like a rod knock sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the exhaust manifolds heat up, they expand. This squeezes things back together and the noise will stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'd be looking for is carbon tracks (black suet) somewhere around the exhaust manifolds. It will be darker near the junction of the manifold/head and lighten in color as you go away from that junction. Most likely it won't be that large of an area either, probably just a 1/4&quot; or so in size (away from the junction). It can be wide along the manifold, but if this is a new noise, it probably won't be yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you would need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T22:01:29.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:10:30.217" Score="1" ViewCount="5676" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm 16 years old and have just bought my first car. It's a 2001 Mazda protoge. Today while I was driving I plugged in a USB charger for my phone and the radio shut off. Now the radio won't turn on and the outlet for the USB charger doesn't work. I have no idea what happened. Could anyone explain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12159" OwnerDisplayName="Trevor" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T00:14:38.543" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T02:16:30.680" Title="Car radio stopped working" Tags="|electrical|mazda|audio|protege|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21015" CreationDate="2015-09-10T22:34:11.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK so it blew a 15 amp fuse. Thanks for the help. I also want to know how it blew a 15 amp fuse so next time it won't happen. Does the radio actually draw that much current? Or did I short circuit the outlet by plugging the USB charger in? If you could help me figure out why it happened that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12159" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T22:34:11.530" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20930" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:13:22.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're absolutely sure that your fuel tank contains 100% fresh new gasoline, drain the fuel tank completely and fill it with 100% fresh new gasoline. If that fails to do the job, check the needle valve - you may be able to clean it if it's sticky, you may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T03:13:22.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:48:53.330" Score="2" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this vehicle safe to drive if needing a rear axle seal replaced? It is leaking and unsure what oil needs to go back in her ... appointment booked for next week, but wondering if its safe for use until then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12162" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T01:02:56.197" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T01:02:56.197" Title="2005 toyota tundra double cab special edition - rear axle seal replacement" Tags="|toyota|seal|tundra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21018" CreationDate="2015-09-11T07:56:24.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axles don't hold much oil and if you don't know how much is left in I wouldn't risk it without topping it up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T07:56:24.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1413" CreationDate="2015-09-11T10:43:46.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you could make a mounting bracket for a push-to-make switch somewhere on the gearshift surround at the base of the gear lever in the cabin and wire the reverse lights to that.  That way it would engage when the shift lever was pushed into the reverse position and wouldn't be a manual switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T10:43:46.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21018" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:06:26.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your truck should be fine to drive as long as you take the following precautions. The main thing is you ensure you keep the gear oil topped off to where it should be. Gear oil doesn't leak like out like engine oil. You should only need to top it off once or twice to maintain the gear oil level (unless it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; leaking --- I'm assuming it isn't gushing out, lol). The only other precaution to take is making sure the gear oil isn't getting on your brakes, which is a possibility. If it looks like it's getting onto your brakes, you'll want to stop driving it as a safety precaution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Images and directions were obtained from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/engine-intake-exhaust-induction/125266-diy-differential-oil-drain-and-fill/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. Full instructions for replacing the gear oil can be found there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe your truck requires 75w85 gear oil, but 75w90 should work just fine for the mean time. You can get the gear oil at pretty much any parts store or Walmart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check your fluid, there should be a 24mm plug in the rear differential which will be below centerline (half way point of the differential) on the back cover:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFnaZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFnaZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to use this hole to fill this up the gear oil level until you have less than 5mm of space between the drain hole and the top of the gear oil. If you use the tip of your little finger (to the first joint) and can feel the gear oil through the hole, you should be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JeRe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JeRe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T12:06:26.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21031" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:22:03.483" Score="8" ViewCount="15768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be road tripping and living out of my SUV for a while. I need a way to power a tiny portable cooler/fridge 24/7 and would like to be able to power my cell phone, laptop, and maybe a few other things when the vehicle is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking into the possibility of mounting a solar panel on the roof and using that to charge a deep cycle battery, but it would expensive and complicated. Using the alternator to charge the auxiliary battery would be so much simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I would need to use a battery isolator. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlNTqEqRF0Q&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; example of how it works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether this could damage the alternator in any way? Will it wear it out faster, or is it just using energy that would otherwise be wasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:14:11.673" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T14:50:16.140" Title="Will an auxiliary battery hurt a vehicle's alternator?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21026" CreationDate="2015-09-11T12:41:04.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not incur any issues using a secondary battery with a battery isolator. It will not cause any damage to your alternator. For your edification, it won't be using wasted energy, but your engine will probably using a tad more gas to operate the alternator, which will have to do more work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, you might want to rethink &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what you are going to be powering from your spare battery. From the sounds of it, you'll be using a lot more energy than a single battery can provide. A battery will only have so many amp hours (Ah) available to it. You need to find the power draw which will be against it for each piece of equipment you plan to power and size your battery accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T12:41:04.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23671" CreationDate="2015-09-11T14:24:23.440" Score="8" ViewCount="95083" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L I'm working on the engine seems to shake / wobble for about a second / second and a half when going to WOT from any starting rpm.  It also almost sounded like maybe one of the belts was even momentarily slipping.  If I accelerate gently everything is smooth and there is no shake or wobble.  It's an automatic and I did this all in park.  Not sure if this is related or not, but the idle seems to be low and a bit shaky / erratic.  Adjusting the idle air screw doesn't seem to have much effect one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this to be abnormal, as I don't experience any shake going to WOT on my other car, a 99 Almera which also has a low occasionally erratic idle and even stalls a few times a day ( haven't had time to work on it yet ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just did a cigar smoke test, and I noticed that smoke looked like it was coming out the number three injector.  On closer inspection, it looks like the smoke was coming out where the grommet holds the injector in to the manifold.  I also noticed what looks like a dark stain around one side of the grommet ( I shined a light on it and it's definitely not a shadow ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCWmU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCWmU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If smoke can get out at the injector grommet, I'm assuming air can get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also took out the number three plug, and upon close inspection one side of the plug seemed to have a yellowish hue to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the source of my low rough idle and the shaking / wobbling when pressing down hard on the gas?  Maybe the excess air is causing that cylinder to run lean and hot, and causing the yellowish tint on the plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So I got a scan tool. Yippie!&lt;/strong&gt;  I fixed the small air leak from the #3 lower injector seal, and couldn't see any other air leaks ( doesn't necessarily mean there aren't ), but still have the same problem.  I reset the ECU and logged a 16 minutes drive.  During idle and cruise STFT stayed at zero, but during moderate or heavy acceleration ( &lt;em&gt;which is mushy at first, then solidifies after a second or two&lt;/em&gt; ) I see STFT go around 9% - 14% then return to zero at cruise or light acceleration.  Engine load seems to be over 60% during these injection spurts.  The engine seems smooth at higher rpm while cruising.  LTFT stayed at zero the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the drive I ran the car's internal &quot;Key On Engine Running&quot; self test which didn't show any errors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 98 US WSM lists the following possible causes for &quot;&lt;em&gt;Idle speed too low and excessive engine shake&lt;/em&gt;&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;• Air leak from intake air system parts&#xA;• Spark leak from hightension leads&#xA;• Improper operation of IAC valve&#xA;• Erratic or no signal from camshaft position (CMP) sensor&#xA;• Erratic signal from crankshaft position (CKP) sensor&#xA;• PCV valve malfunction&#xA;• Restriction in exhaust system&#xA;• Inadequate fuel pressure&#xA;• Fuel leak from fuel injector&#xA;• Engine overheating&#xA;• A/C system improperly operation&#xA;• Purge solenoid valve malfunction&#xA;• EGR valve malfunction&#xA;• Low engine compression&#xA;• Poor fuel quality&#xA;• Air cleaner restriction&#xA;• Electrical connector disconnection&#xA;• Fuel pump mechanical malfunction&#xA;• Fuel injector clogged&#xA;• Vacuum leak&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T18:20:28.087" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T23:50:20.897" Title="Rough Low Idle and Engine Shakes, Hesitation and Lack of Power" Tags="|rough-idle|acceleration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21002" CreationDate="2015-09-11T14:56:46.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: this might be as simple as a bad radiator cap.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough, I am currently experiencing similar issues with my (completely different) car. I smelled coolant, looked under the hood and saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnVmP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lots of coolant everywhere&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with new coolant, I noticed that it was boiling out of the overflow pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does this tell me?  I'm almost certainly losing pressure somewhere in the system which, due to the ideal gas law, allows the coolant to reach boiling point even though the car isn't overheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should you do?  Get the car hot, open the hood and then listen carefully in various places over the engine (obviously it's hot, so watch out under there).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that you'll hear exactly what I do: hissing right at the radiator cap.  The solution is pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy the replacement cap for about $20 USD. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the car to cool off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace old cap with new. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top off coolant. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive around enough to get it hot. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Confirm no boiling and no hissing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Go to the shop and have them flush the coolant&lt;/strong&gt;.  Tap water is not good for the cooling system. You should always use a proper mixture (and Home Depot Prestone is probably fine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come back here and brag about how you fixed it. :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. Many of us are parents and feel your pain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T20:26:18.847" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T20:26:18.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:18:16.283" Score="2" ViewCount="7197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Chevy cobalt that shows a reduced engine power error. The problem is sporadic sometimes it will run like a sewing machine and other days it will show the error and shake like it is about to cut off. I took it to the dealership and they told me to replace the engine. I don't believe that is the problem because it runs fine some days. If the engine were bad would I believe it would run bad all the time. Anyone having the same problem or maybe know where I can start to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12171" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T18:14:56.420" Title="2007 chevy cobalt reduced engine power" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|power|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21026" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:30:29.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I thought I'd come here to explain some physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two important equations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;p=iv - power (watts) = amps * volts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;v=ir - volts = amps * resistance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note - an amp is a measure of how many electrons are flowing through the wire per second. 1 amp is A LOT of them - I forget the exact number (I'm a mathematician, not a physicist)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A &lt;strong&gt;volt&lt;/strong&gt; is how much energy each electron has. A generator is only able to provide so much energy to each electron (12 volts = 12 joules per coloumb (a coloumb is a large quantity of electrons)) but the amount of them it moves along can vary, that's your amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;watts is a rate of energy, it's in joules per second. So 5 watts for 10 seconds is 50 joules of energy. Your fuel tank could be measured in joules of energy it holds and your engine is the magical device that turns fuel into mechanical energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know cars run pretty much exclusively on 12 volts - or some other fixed number. This means if you want, say 600 watts, your alternator needs to be able to provide &quot;i&quot; in 600=12i, which is 300=6i, 100=3i, i=33.3 amps, which is A LOT of current. This is why wires melt more often in cars then they do at home. Where to provide 600 watts at 220 volts would be about 2.73 amps. Over 10 times less electrons carrying charge per second through devices!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the more power you draw the more electrons the alternator has to drag through your wiring, the more energy it takes from the engine. A good &quot;back of the envelope&quot; value for how much energy an engine produces (mechanical of course, not heat) is 2,400 watts. If you draw 600 you've only got 1800 watts left, so you put your foot down harder (thus using more fuel) to get back up to 2,400 watts for kinetic energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay so that's the first half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Batteries&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car batteries are &lt;strong&gt;NOT BUILT FOR CONSTANT DRAINS&lt;/strong&gt; they are good at one thing, and one thing only: short bursts of high drain (like a starter motor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Also they can retain charge for a long time. But I wont contrast with Lithium based batteries here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly, car batteries are good for 70amp hours (they can provide 1 amp for 70 hours, or 70 amps for one hour) if you draw about 3 amps (which would last about 23 hours)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remember p=iv, so p=3*12 = 36 watts for for 23 hours. That's not much is it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or we can do p=iv=70*12 = 840 watts, but only for an hour. (INACCURATE as car batteries don't behave this way, expect nearer 840 watts for 40 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;This implies a linear relationship. As I said car batteries are not good at small loads for long periods of time, they are good for short bursts of very high current. You get the idea though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a laptop ~ 40 watt (depending on what it's doing, if it's charging its battery it'll draw more power, up to the charger's max rating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fridge ~ 90 watts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mobile phone ~ 3 watts - lets ignore this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're looking at drawing about 130 watts. This'll require about 11 amps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery can do 70 amps, for an hour. Using this information that'd give 70/11 = 6.36 hours. Keep in mind it's not good at doing this for a long time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd bank on it being &lt;strong&gt;approximately 5 hours&lt;/strong&gt; until a full battery completely ran out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IF however you get 3 batteries. You're nearer their comfort zone (3.67 amps per battery) which should give you about 19 hours. This is a more accurate number - You'd have to wire these up in parallel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T15:30:29.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21034" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:58:06.293" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is loosing engine oil and so every once in a while I need to add anywhere between a liter and two liters to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've done it with the engine warm, and I'm only careful not to let the oil level reach the maximum mark, since after the oil settles the level would raise a little bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, should I let the engine cool to ambient temperature before adding oil, and is there anything else I should be careful with in regards to my safety and also the cars safety and engine health?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T16:16:00.590" Title="How to properly add engine oil?" Tags="|maintenance|oil|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21036" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:14:06.723" Score="19" ViewCount="103146" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is pretty straight forward...&#xA;How to properly dispose of engine coolant? Should it be taken to a treatment facility like used engine oil or is it safe to pour down the drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T22:29:10.727" Title="How to dispose of engine coolant?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21032" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:16:00.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's perfectly fine. As long as you know to take care not to overfill (the level must never go above the MAX level, though there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a little room for error) you will be fine. It's not rocket science. Just pour oil into the engine and put the cap back. It's about as dificult as making tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T16:16:00.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13021" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:17:43.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Mazda B2300 p/u. Engine light comes off and on, I would like to diagnose the problem. The Mazda book says to use a CAN OBDll diagnostic scan tool. The Mazda book also says to use a selector tool 49-B019-9a0 and connect self diagnosis check tool 49-B018-9a1. I need an adaptor to connect from the eec test plug to my OBDll, would appreciate your help. Thanks Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12174" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T17:17:43.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21033" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:21:54.430" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not pour it down the drain, and do not pour it outside. Coolant is very sweet tasting to animals and they will &quot;drink&quot; it. It will affect both their kidneys and GI tract with potentially fatal consequences if not treated. Typical symptoms include vomiting, thirst, lack of appetite and unusual lethargy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pour it down the drain, it will pollute things downstream from your sewage facility.  If you have a septic system, it will foul it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to a recycling/collection center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastEditorUserId="9342" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T21:06:20.187" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:06:20.187" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21002" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:37:08.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheating can be caused by several things. First, make sure you are actually overheating, that is the temperature gauge tells you the coolant is too hot.  (See Bob Cross's answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it IS too hot, it could be caused by 1) bad thermostat  stuck closed  2) bad/clogged radiator  3) bad water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad thermostat will also cause a fairly rapid overheat, and usually a cold or cooler than normal heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clogged radiator is more frustrating to diagnose because you do NOT want to open the radiator while it's hot.  If it IS a bad radiator, get a NEW one, not a rebuilt one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad water pump will usually be making a squeaking noise.  You will also be able to see coolant leakage on or around the pump.  Some water pumps are easier to change than others, and you don't necessarily need to change the timing belt.  Depends on how much mileage the timing belt has on it.  And DO NOT let a tire store or Wal-Mart do that work.  Find a shop where they make their living doing mechanic work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you need to add fluid to the coolant system, use either pre-packaged 50/50 non-silicate antifreeze or a 50/50 mix of full strength and DISTILLED water (really cheap to get at the grocery store). Don't use tap water unless it's an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T17:37:08.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21033" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:56:34.633" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your location's laws, but the EPA says it's not hazardous waste.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you're just a DIY-er, you can probably pour it down your toilet.  Try and find a recycler first though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In St. Louis, MO (my example), I have not found a better way for a DIY-er to dispose of it, but I believe professional shops have some way to dispose of it not accessible to us.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; places in Missouri that accept antifreeze for recycling, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mo-springfield.civicplus.com/DocumentCenter/View/3179&quot;&gt;Springfield&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.claycountymo.gov/Services/Recycling&quot;&gt;Clay County collection centers&lt;/a&gt;, but you have to be a resident with proof and there are limits on the amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EPA, DNR, CDC etc.:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/airtoxics/hlthef/ethy-gly.html&quot;&gt;EPA&lt;/a&gt; does not consider used coolant to be a hazardous waste.  None of the major auto parts stores accept it for recycling.  St. Louis, MO's household hazardous waste center does not accept it because it is not a hazardous waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/wastes/conserve/materials/antifree.htm&quot;&gt;EPA (different link)&lt;/a&gt; says some states consider used antifreeze hazardous because after being run through your engine, it can contain lead, cadmium, chromium, mercury,  kryptonite, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used antifreeze can be determined not to be hazardous by simply knowing where it came from.  Testing is not needed to classify it as hazardous waste.  If it has not been used in a old vehicle, heavy machinery, nuclear plant, etc., it can be called non-hazardous by whoever is disposing of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://infohouse.p2ric.org/ref/27/26530.pdf&quot;&gt;Here is a rundown&lt;/a&gt; of what is acceptable for each state &lt;em&gt;including dumping it down the sanitary sewer&lt;/em&gt;.  Some states have deemed it hazardous, but not most.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub114.htm&quot;&gt;Missouri Department of Natural Resources&lt;/a&gt; says, &quot;if the facility is connected to a sanitary sewer that discharges to a Publicly Owned Treatment Works (POTW) and the wastes will mix with domestic sewage, the waste antifreeze may be disposed in the sanitary sewer on-site.&quot;  And that exact text is seen repeatedly when searching about this subject.  They do say you need to check with your sewer company, but since no permit is required, I assume that is legal covering their butts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/phs/phs.asp?id=84&amp;amp;tid=21&quot;&gt;CDC&lt;/a&gt; says that ethylene glycol will break down in a few weeks when not in our cars' closed systems, i.e. when exposed to air.  Antifreeze contains more than just ethylene glycol though.  It contains O2 inhibitors (buffering and alkalinity type stuff), but those will be depleted quickly when exposed to the open atmosphere.  I do not know what chemicals it breaks down to though, but they are apparently not bad enough to mention.  We're not chemists on this site so we should just follow the government agencies' policies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please open the two EPA links and search for the word &quot;hazardous&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;  The EPA does not consider antifreeze to be hazardous if it is not contaminated, i.e. it has only been used in a newer consumer vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T21:08:38.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:08:38.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21043" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:13:34.977" Score="3" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very basic question. I understand that the torque is passed from the engine onto the transmission via the flywheel in manual transmission or flexplate in case of automatic. The transmission converts the input torque to an gear who size corresponds to the current vehicle movement.  What I do not understand is how the processed torque output of the transmission gets passed onto the differential, which I understand is the ultimate conveyor of power to the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please correct any possibly incorrect assumptions above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:26:04.210" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:26:04.210" Title="Cars 101: How is torque conveyed from transmission to differential?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21042" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:19:14.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This system is called the drive train:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11Q9g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11Q9g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The shaft I was talking about was the prop-shaft. How I forgot that I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car is allwheel drive or can be it'll have something called (unimaginatively and again, I don't know how I forgot this) a 'transfer box'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12170" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T20:25:48.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21033" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:20:29.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local landfill may have a spot to dispose of oil and antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my city, it is illegal to dump antifreeze in the trash or on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:20:29.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T23:16:04.530" Score="2" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '97 Ford Expedition turns over but won't start. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter with no results. Fuel is hitting the rail at pressure. I checked the spark with a noid light, and it's getting spark. I pulled the crank position sensor wire and re-attached and it started one time but went right back to cranking over but not starting after a short drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12179" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T00:59:19.767" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T00:59:19.767" Title="Ford has proper fuel pressure and spark but won't start" Tags="|ford|starting|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T23:47:09.533" Score="3" ViewCount="9509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did the timing belt change in a Honda 2007 V6 Accord. I thought I aligned the belt, but I guess I didn't. Now it won't cranks but won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix the timing issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mark on Crank is facing 9:00,&#xA;front cam has #1 at TDC&#xA;rear cam mark is at 9:00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T08:01:03.663" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T09:55:44.880" Title="Timing belt changed, won't start" Tags="|engine|honda|accord|timing-belt|timing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21056" CreationDate="2015-09-12T03:00:40.647" Score="20" ViewCount="208725" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a rod knock? What causes a rod knock, how bad is a knocking rod, and how can I tell if a rod is knocking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T15:26:11.610" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T02:36:48.147" Title="What is a rod knock?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21048" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:25:20.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rod knock is caused by a severe failure of one or more crankshaft connecting rod bearings. Repairs require engine removal and complete disassembly at significant expense.  The most common cause is lack of engine oil, this is usually the first part in an engine to fail when it runs out of oil. The second most common cause is very hard driving. The test is simple, rev up the engine and listen for a loud knock in time with rotation; an experienced tech knows this sound all too well. Not every noise is a rod knock, so an experienced ear is needed.  I saw three this week: one driven too hard, one ran out of oil and one manufactured incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think your engine might have this problem do not run the engine, get it to an experienced tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T05:25:20.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:14:42.477" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 vti and it refuses to start. The engine only makes &quot;tch&quot; sound everytime the key is turned on. I have tried moving it in reverse and forward as some make-shift mechanics suggested (reason to do is, at times the gear is not in the proper idle condition). Apart from all this got the air filter removed to access the starter terminals and found them to be corroded. What do you suggest, that i get it cleaned or replace it? And what if that is not the case? Like, is there any other reason for the car not starting any fuse or relay?&#xA;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12184" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T21:37:06.750" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T21:37:06.750" Title="2008 vti refuses to start.what should I do?" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21030" CreationDate="2015-09-12T10:59:48.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common culprit for that error is the throttle by wire system. If the car senses that something is the matter with either the throttle body or the gas pedal it will reduce power. The best way to verify this is to have the codes pulled. You should see a code for the throttle body or the gas pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T10:59:48.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21051" CreationDate="2015-09-12T11:23:25.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get the terminals cleaned at both the battery and the starter. You want these connections to be able to make good connections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, usually when you hear the sound you are describing, the battery is low, so may need replacement. Since you have corroded connections, it may still be low, but be rechargeable. If once you get the terminals cleaned up, see if it will start the car. If it doesn't, put a battery charger on the battery and see if it will come up to snuff (fully charged it should be ~13.1vdc with the engine off). If it will only charge to say 11.9vdc, you'll probably want to look at buying a battery soon. If it's below 10vdc, it definitely needs replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely have to clean the terminals. This may keep electricity flowing (for both starting and charging) and may be the root cause. If this doesn't fix things, it could be the battery, but the battery &lt;em&gt;may just&lt;/em&gt; need recharged at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T11:23:25.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T02:31:02.567" Score="3" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual story is both driven &amp;amp; driver gear teeths are warped up.&#xA;I am trying to remove this &lt;strong&gt;gear coupling&lt;/strong&gt; from the motor side using &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gear pulling device&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; by applying load, but it still not coming: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoHRl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoHRl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also driven gear got stuck in the gear pump. but how to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this image of driven gear:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVMZC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVMZC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Higor Pazin" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T04:44:54.783" Title="How to remove this gear from this pump and motor?" Tags="|gears|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21054" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:46:15.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success with using penetrating oil and lightly hitting the shaft with a hammer a few times to help it get between the shaft and the gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, get a torch (or an induction heater if you have one) and heat the gear sleeve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DLS3141" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T04:46:15.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21048" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:30:55.417" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get to basics, the rod (or &lt;em&gt;connecting rod&lt;/em&gt;) is the portion of the engine which connects the piston to the crankshaft. Where the rod connects to the crankshaft there is a bearing which separates the rod itself from the crank journal. The bearing is made from a softer material than the rod or the crankshaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see most all of the internal parts of an engine in this exploded view below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connecting rod is #7, the crank shaft is #16, piston #4, and bearing can be found marked as #8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWKkv.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWKkv.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an engine is built, there are certain gap tolerances (specific distance measured in .001&quot;) which are built into it, the rod bearing to crankshaft journal being no different. In this case, the tolerance is there to allow a specific amount of oil through from a hole in the crankshaft journal and remain on the bearing surface. Oil films on the bearing and keeps the two parts from touching during normal engine operation. If the clearance gets too big from either wear or deformation, the oil will no longer film correctly and you will get the &lt;em&gt;rod knock&lt;/em&gt;. The noise itself occurs due to metal on metal contact between the bearing and the crankshaft journal during the power stroke of the engine cycle. If the situation is &lt;em&gt;really bad&lt;/em&gt; it can even be caused by the rod itself contacting the crankshaft journal (where the bearing has become out of place). The most common cause of rod knock is due to a spun bearing (bearing itself actually spins in the end of the rod so it becomes out of position). This usually happens due to rod cap stretch during abusive driving situations. It can also happen due to a lack of lubrication, either because of a lack of oil or because oil is flowing incorrectly. It can also be caused by a combination of any (or all) of the three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rod knock is a &lt;em&gt;very serious&lt;/em&gt; issue with the engine. As you can probably tell from my write-up, it means the engine is no longer functioning correctly. It is the &lt;em&gt;death knell&lt;/em&gt; of the engine. Once the rod knock occurs, it will not cure itself. The rod bearing must either be replaced along with fixing associated parts (you don't usually replace just one rod bearing as the entire engine would need rebuilt at that point), or the engine will need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rod knock is as described ... A low pitched knocking sound which can be heard low in the engine. It will increase in frequency as the engine speeds up, but can usually be heard at any engine speed. If you hear a knocking sound which seems to disappear after the engine warms up, it's probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a rod knock. It may be something as innocuous as a leaking exhaust gasket. If you believe you have a rod knock, you should seek a second opinion from a trusted mechanic. A rod knock is an expensive fix, so you need to make sure of what it is prior to diving in head first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T18:33:27.717" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T18:33:27.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21054" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:41:47.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat is going to be your friend. Localize it to the gear so as to keep as much direct heat away from the shaft and other parts. If you have your puller on with tension applied, you'll see when the part starts to separate, then you can apply more pressure at that point to the puller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the driven gear, I cannot see enough of how it's attached to anything to give you proper advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T12:41:47.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21045" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:44:34.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you found it restarted once by removing the wiring to the sensor, your issue is going to lie either with the sensor, the wiring, or the connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the wiring for breaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the plug for corrosion or damage, clean or replace if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all else fails, replace the sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T12:44:34.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T23:35:21.880" Score="1" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, the brand and size. Is there any place for me to check what the original tires which come with the car are? I live in Canada and whenever I search it on Google the links lead to goodyear.ca where I can search for available tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12190" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T04:54:59.527" Title="What are the original tires for the 2002 Honda Accord SE? Any place for me to check?" Tags="|honda|tires|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:00:17.947" Score="-1" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;My engine light comes off and on, I bought a DIAGNOSTIC SCAN TOOL (CAN OBDll) to check the engine light, as per Mazda book it shows in the diagram from my eec test plug to connect system selector tool 49-b019-9a0 to the data link connector. Then connect self diagnosis check tool 49-h018-9a1 to the system selector and a ground. My new tool has 16 pins where can I find and buy the proper tools that I need to diagnose this problem. Help would be greatly appreciated and if you have these tools I would &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12174" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T12:17:43.373" Title="adaptor for 1994 Mazda B2300 P/U" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17672" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:16:54.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found my car Ac tube is not insulated and it is moving over the engine. It heated up immediately and affected the efficiency of cooling.I wrapped the pipe by asbestos belt.I amazed to found that the car cooling is even much better than before. Earlier the cooling was not appropriate when I drove the car for  25 minutes.the tube comes out from compressor got heated up so much that I couldn't put my hands over it.after insulating the cooling line pipe  I drove the car for 3-4 hours. The results are much better. By doing this I increased my car cooling efficiency by 75 %.about 200 mm of pipe coming out from compressor and 100mm at the end side is still uninsulated. I am trying to cover it up and I am sure it will definitely give me almost 100 %.&#xA;I am unable to understand why the car manufacturer don't think about it. My car is latest version of Maruti Suzuki zen estilo. Whatever I tried I succeeded. Now I am trying to cover it by glass wool and aluminium foil for better efficiency.  I have ordered aluminium foil tape online and kept some glass wool blanket for next .I hope it will definitely change my driving pleasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12192" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T01:16:54.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21060" CreationDate="2015-09-13T04:54:59.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cars have a tire information sticker somewhere in the driver door jam. The sticker will list the tire size and speed rating. The exact brand is not important and can't be easily traced either. I worked at a dealership for a few years and it was not uncommon for a single model of cars to come with three different tires on it. Choose the tire based on the driving that you do and the conditions that the tire will see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T04:54:59.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25059" CreationDate="2015-09-13T11:54:01.517" Score="3" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you can change climate control to show current speed when you enter diagnose mode but it gets reset after ignition restart and also you cant adjust your temperature or something like that while in that mode.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if you can to set it permanently to show speed instead of outside temperature using VCDS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T16:10:42.133" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:10:42.133" Title="Golf mk4 climate control show speed instead of outside temperature" Tags="|electrical|vw|diagnostics|climate-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21062" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:17:43.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mazda B series trucks are rebadged Ford Rangers. In 94 the Rangers were still OBDI (1). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To read the codes and look at the data you need something like this. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000R3SNJU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3140-OBD2-OBD1-Scan/dp/B000R3SNJU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To just read codes you need something like this, it's cheap but a pain the but to use. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006V2BGY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9015-Ford-Code-Scanner/dp/B0006V2BGY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T12:17:43.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21069" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:50:27.407" Score="6" ViewCount="6904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the water pump on a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD 4 cylinder. One of the videos I watched mentioned using gasket sealant when installing the new pump. I asked autozone for gasket sealant, but I got gasket maker (RTV Silicone Gasket Maker by Permatex) instead. The instructions on the gasket maker do not mention using an actual gasket. What is the best plan here? Use just the gasket maker only? Use the gasket maker with the felt gasket that came with the water pump? Get a new gasket altogether (the original was metal, the one I have is felt)? Go back and get gasket sealant and use that instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11941" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T15:53:45.740" Title="Installing a new water pump - what to do about the gasket?" Tags="|water-pump|gasket|gasket-maker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21068" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:53:45.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are basically the same thing. Use the gasket and put the gasket maker on either side of it. It will do the same job and work just as well. Don't put it on too thick, just enough to hold the gasket in place on the block or on the pump. Should leave you in good stead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T15:53:45.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21073" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:19:46.800" Score="3" ViewCount="3966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&amp;amp;car_id=5181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freelander 1999 2.0L DI&lt;/a&gt;. I need to top up some power steering fluid. In the manual it says to use Dexron IID or Dexron III. I'm wondering whether I can use Dexron III &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/atf-dex-iii.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Castrol ATF DEX III&lt;/a&gt;) for this purpose as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:39:20.893" Title="Can I use Dexron III H for power transmission requiring Dexron IID/III?" Tags="|oil|automatic-transmission|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21072" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:39:20.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine using the Dexron-IIIH. The &quot;H&quot; indicates a newer additive package than previous versions. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oilspecifications.org/general_motors_gm.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OilSpecifications.org&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dexron III licence H was introduced in June 2003 to replace the Dexron III G fluid. It has an oxidatively stable base oil (group 2 or group 3). Oils according to this specification have longer maintenance of friction properties and anti-shrudder properties, better foam control and a longer fluid life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; Dexron-III, is all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:39:20.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:46:55.330" Score="9" ViewCount="5666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Civic, and the paint on the roof is beginning to deteriorate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJdoa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJdoa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though maybe the top coat is discoloring and coming off, revealing the coat underneath, which seems to be intact.  The affected area is currently about 7&quot; x 2&quot; (20cm x 5 cm) and seems to be slowly growing over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda seems to be aware of this problem and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/04/honda-civic-cr-v-odyssey-pilot-defective-paint/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;released a technical bulletin&lt;/a&gt; a couple of years ago, extending the paint warranty.  Unfortunately this expired before I started to notice a problem on my vehicle.  So if I am to fix this, it will be at my own expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am trying to determine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this only a cosmetic problem, or is it more serious?  (For instance, is it likely to lead to rusting of the sheet metal, or any structural problem?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix it short of repainting the entire roof?  (I would probably have that done professionally.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that, in the short term, I don't really care how the car looks, is there any advantage to fixing this in a timely manner?  Might it be cheaper to fix it now than later?  Or could I put it off indefinitely, until I want to sell the car, or until it looks so bad that I am embarrassed to be seen driving it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19042/roof-paint-peeling-badly-with-rust-what-to-do?rq=1&quot;&gt;Roof paint peeling badly, with rust -- what to do?&lt;/a&gt; but their problem is a lot worse than mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T19:07:14.497" Title="Is it important to fix paint deterioration?" Tags="|honda|civic|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:42:44.940" Score="1" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good evening. My general question is, what information, preferably real time, can be obtained from the &lt;code&gt;EEC&lt;/code&gt; on a 92 &lt;code&gt;Ford&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;F150&lt;/code&gt;? I'm particularly looking to hook up an &lt;code&gt;Arduino&lt;/code&gt; and digitizing the gauges and information without installing additional, possibly unnecessary, hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you monitor the RPMs, Speed, Engine Temperature, Battery Level, Mileage, Oil Pressure, etc in real time from the &lt;code&gt;EEC&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your replies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12204" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T19:27:26.680" Title="Information from an EEC-IV on 92 Ford F150" Tags="|ford|f-150|computer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2015-09-14T02:54:51.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest/easiest/quickest way is to just to turn on the heater full blast for about 5 minutes.  This will dry out the air conditioner and kill the mold and bacteria.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12205" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T02:54:51.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T03:43:44.150" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just bought a 99 Jetta - Working on the bugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the emergency brake OFF, once I exceed 15 mph I hear 3 tones and the &quot;brake&quot; light starts flashing. Am I right to think it may be from an emerg. brake off switch not functioning? Where would I gain access to the switch to check it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Michael&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12206" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T09:01:18.357" Title="99 Jetta - &quot;:Three Tones and Flashing Brake Light" Tags="|brakes|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T05:31:02.867" Score="8" ViewCount="1742" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, this is my first time doing my own brakes ('06 Corolla). I replaced both my front pads and rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When putting the new pads in, I've been having quite a bit of difficulty with the inboard pads on both sides of the car. It took quite a bit of effort, but I was able to get the passenger side done. However I can't seem to replicate that success with the driver side. I'm able to get one tongue in, but when the other pops into place as well, the first pops out. Both sides, on their own, seem to fit into the notch just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's an appropriate procedure to get these in? Would using a metal file to take some material off of the tongues so that they fit better be a viable option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12208" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T23:21:48.100" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T19:57:19.837" Title="First time brake job - can't get new pads into the brackets" Tags="|toyota|brakes|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:01:18.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The switch is usually somewhere under or behind the lever - you'll have to remove the trim around the lever to get to it. It'll be operated by a 'tab' on the lever itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on most cars I have dealt with, the 'brake' light will stay on constantly when the e-brake is engaged - so if the switch had failed, it would continue to remain on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the service brake for any issues? It might be detecting an imbalance between the circuits or similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T09:01:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21078" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:49:16.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very common issue with your style of hardware is rust buildup between the cast iron bracket and the metal hardware. This is a commonly overlooked spot. This causes the effective distance between surfaces to become shorter. Remove the bracket and the hardware. Clean all the surfaces between the bracket and the hardware. Expect the rust to be very hard and require chipping it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T09:49:16.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2015-09-14T16:01:44.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to charge the vehicle to open the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just unlock the car manually (if it's locked), climb into the hatch, open the floor hatch to the spare tire area, and reach underneath the door latch in the open space and there's a lever that unlatches it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12212" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:01:44.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21078" CreationDate="2015-09-14T16:07:34.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be trying to place them too far &quot;back&quot;.  The Toyota inboard pads can be very annoying to place precisely as the feel is kind of vague.  The rotors also like to &quot;kick out&quot; a little during the process which makes the pads look wrong (even when installed correctly).  For example, on mine, when I put the inboard pads in properly they hang out front of the rotor by a couple mm...  Until everything is snugged up, then it all slots together.  Not knowing that at first, I would get one edge of the pad in, line up with the rotor, push, and then the other edge would go in as the first popped back out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:07:34.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:17:42.390" Score="5" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;When topping off the gasoline in a vehicle that is rarely driven (100 miles/month), is there any advantage in topping it off with a higher octane gasoline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard stories that the octane of gasoline gets lower the longer it sits.  I have no idea if those stories are true.  If they are true, it seems reasonable to spend a little more and top off the tank with a higher octane fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are those stories true?  Is it a good idea, in this situation, to top off with a fuel with a higher octane rating than is recommended, with the goal being to restore the fuel to the recommended octane level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:14:57.203" Title="Is it a good idea to top off the gasoline with higher octane fuel in a specific case?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|gasoline|octane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:30:20.943" Score="7" ViewCount="22084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand spring clamps are convenient to use on smaller hoses. However, my Tacoma came with them on even larger hoses, such as the radiator hoses, that are, I believe 1.25&quot; and I can't seem to find a reason why there would use an easily mangled, hard to squeeze spring clamps when a regular strap clamp with a screw (AKA worm gear) would do just fine and would be a lot easier to use and put on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BONUS:  Someone told me that spring clamps are better because they apply pressure uniformly vs worm gear clamps that apply it in only one spot.  While I am unable to scientifically disprove this, my gut feeling is that it is complete unfounded B.S. Can anyone offer a plausible explanation to dismiss this so I can go back to that person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T17:32:57.997" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T14:50:39.423" Title="Spring vs worm gear clamps?" Tags="|fastener|hose|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:34:25.487" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike starts fine but it coughs a lot when giving throttle in first gear.  Runs great 2nd - 5th but when pushing around 85 mph or more the acceleration quits.  The engine is still running but feels like it's just idling until I slow to about 60-70 then the acceleration kicks in again.  Sometimes I can drop it down to forth and that will work but sometimes it doesn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the carb cleaned, drained the tank, replaced the float/needle set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12217" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T17:34:25.487" Title="2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Vulcan 800 Throttle Cuts at High Speeds (85mph+)" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:41:37.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17480" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:39:46.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another problem, recognized by BMW with this motorbike when starting with hot engine, so you are not alone. Have a look to this web &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmwg650gs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bmwg650gs.com/&lt;/a&gt; where there is a document sent by BMW Spain with info (in spanish).&#xA;Basically they told they know the problem and the solution is a new software for the ECU which nowadays is not available.&#xA;So the only solution is waiting for BMW to release this new software while we try to use the motorbike as much as it allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12216" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T17:39:46.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21074" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:52:40.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the paint is metallic, then the top coat will be a clear lacquer.  Other than not looking very nice, it shouldn't be a problem just leaving it.  You could carefully flatten the lacquer with some fine wet and dry paper to remove the dull area where it is peeling off, then spray some clear lacquer on.  Be careful not to rub through the paint, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T19:52:40.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21087" CreationDate="2015-09-14T23:14:42.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one simple reason manufacturers use spring clamps instead of worm gear clamps: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cost&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It costs far less to mass produce spring clamps and use them than it does worm gear clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your bonus question goes, I would agree with your gut. There is no way a spring clamp is going to clamp any better than a worm gear clamp. You would be able to get the worm gear clamp tighter than a spring clamp, that's for sure. As long as the worm gear clamp doesn't get deformed, you can continue applying force to it and getting it tighter. The spring clamp is still adequate for what it is designed to do, though, or it wouldn't still be in use today. The worm gear clamp would most likely last longer as long as it's made out of stainless steel (as opposed to the cheap aluminum ones I've seen from Harbor Freight). Realistically, though, either type of clamp should last for the life of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T23:14:42.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2015-09-14T23:20:34.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of topping off, it would make absolutely no difference other than costing you more at the pump. Octane is a rating which would indicate how hard it is for the fuel to burn. The higher the octane rating, the harder to burn. If anything, leaving gasoline for longer periods of time is going to make it &lt;em&gt;harder&lt;/em&gt; to burn, thus effectively &lt;em&gt;raising&lt;/em&gt; the octane level of the fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topping off the gas tank when leaving the vehicle sit for a while is a very good idea. This helps limit the amount of air which is in the tank and therefor the amount of water which the gas can absorb. Most fuels in the States are blended with Ethanol, which absorbs water. The more air in the tank, the more water it can absorb (assuming there is moisture in the air). Using a fuel stabilizer is also a good idea if you plan on leaving the vehicle for more than a month at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T23:20:34.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21095" CreationDate="2015-09-14T23:48:12.077" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard both OSHA and NIOSH mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3748/what-does-bondo-outgas&quot;&gt;answers here&lt;/a&gt; what are they and why do I need to be concerned about them when it comes to working on my car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/90828/automotive-education&quot;&gt;a question from Wyatt Barmore&lt;/a&gt; on proposed similar site in the SE family.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-06T08:52:16.213" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T08:52:16.213" Title="What is OSHA/NIOSH?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21094" CreationDate="2015-09-15T00:02:48.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OSHA is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occupational_Safety_and_Health_Administration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Occupational Safety &amp;amp; Health Administration&lt;/a&gt;. This is a United States government agency which belongs to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_Department_of_Labor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US Department of of Labor&lt;/a&gt;. According to the Wiki article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OSHA's mission is to &quot;assure safe and healthful working conditions for working men and women by setting and enforcing standards and by providing training, outreach, education and assistance&quot;. The agency is also charged with enforcing a variety of whistleblower statutes and regulations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NIOSH is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Institute_for_Occupational_Safety_and_Health&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health&lt;/a&gt;. According to the Wiki article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) is the U.S. federal agency responsible for conducting research and making recommendations for the prevention of work-related injury and illness. NIOSH is part of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) within the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSHA's main goal is to ensure a healthy work environment and can enforce laws. NIOSH's main goal is to help prevent work place injury by exploring better ways to do work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T00:02:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T00:34:31.313" Score="5" ViewCount="21300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replaced front rotors and brake pads less than a month ago, and now my right front brake pad is completely gone....and the rotor is totally chewed up! Began to notice a metal grind like sound on the front end, just after putting 2 new tires on the front on the 9th. I first noticed the grinding sound as I pulled out of parking lot, but was in big hurry...the sound got louder and louder. Three days later I looked at my brakes and that's when I found my passenger side brake pad totally gone, and rotor chewed. Yesterday I was able to replace the rotor and brake pad, hoping it was a bad set of pads??? &#xA;Today, my driver side brakes began making a screeching metal sound....so I replaced the pad on it. (rotor looked ok)&#xA;Does ANYONE have ideas of what could be causing this problem? Have been told bad calipers???? Bad brake pads????&#xA;***Also, while doing the brakes today I found a .5inLx.16w tiny little thing, metal, hollow cylinder like....., in with the caliper (driver side).....have no idea what it is or where it came from.&#xA;Just fyi, the only other thing I've done is replace tie rods about 2 months ago maybe????&#xA;(actually this is for my son)&#xA;Thanks for the help!!!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10/22/2015 Update&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, he got back with me and he is putting on a new CALIPER, as suggested by several wise people here, and brake pad on one side. He went with the one that made the &quot;grinding&quot; noise.&#xA;I will write back if this does not completely solve the problem. He was told by several people if the brake pads weren't bad when he got them, it was most likely a caliper, but he never felt the classic &quot;pull&quot; to one side or the other, so we were sure it was something else lol....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12219" LastEditorUserId="12219" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T14:07:10.843" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:07:10.843" Title="Brake pad failure and chewed up rotor after 1 month" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21094" CreationDate="2015-09-15T01:00:15.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard both OSHA and NIOSH mentioned in answers here what are they and why do I need to be concerned about them when it comes to working on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you don't have to be concerned with OSHA regulations unless you are working in a workplace, professionally, that abides by OSHA regulations (which is every legal US business, iirc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, a lot of their safety regulations are good information to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T01:00:15.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21087" CreationDate="2015-09-15T05:15:34.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question.  Spring clamps have several advantages from the engineers point of view. They apply even pressure around the joint, screw clamps do not. Screw clamps pull from one side and this can stretch the hose, pulling it to the screw area. In smaller sizes, screw clamps leave a flat spot under the screw fitting; this leaves low pressure areas at the each end of the screw fitting.  But most important spring clamps continue to apply pressure as the rubber of the hose dries out and shrinks over time making the joint last much longer without maintenance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corrosion can be in an issue for poorly coated spring clamps. Care must be taken to place a clamp back in the same place on an older hose. If not, it can leave a section with little or no pressure and lead to a leak.  We switch back to spring clamps whenever we take a hose connection apart. We apply spray silicone lubricant between the clamp and the hose to allow it to slide as it shrinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to flat band spring clamps, round wire clamps are a poor choice as they have too small of a pressure surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T05:15:34.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19352" CreationDate="2015-09-15T10:57:06.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mk6 Fiesta was subject to a facelift in 2005 when Ford changed a number of things about the car including the headlights and grill along with the front bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently facelift parts can be fitted on a pre-facelift car but there is a rivet to drill out and replace so make so you have a rivet gun to hand if you do this conversion.  So, in summary, if you want this bumper to fit straight on your car you may need to change the headlights and grill for those from a 2005-2008 Fiesta which can presumably be had from a breakers yard if you find a car that's suffered rear end damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T10:57:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21102" CreationDate="2015-09-15T11:39:50.483" Score="4" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufactures like Volkswagen have things called as vehicle platforms where two or more cars are based on the same platform like the skoda octavia and VW Golf or the Fabia and the Polo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the engines what else do these cars share? how are they in the same platform? one is a sedan other is a hatchback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we have moved to the monocoque design there is no chassis to borrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of creating platforms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T11:59:09.087" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T11:59:31.490" Title="What does it mean when manufacturers state two cars are of same platform" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21100" CreationDate="2015-09-15T11:49:47.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the running gear can be shared - engine, gearbox, drive shafts, hubs, suspension, brakes, electronics.  Lots of bodywork fittings could be shared too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T11:49:47.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21100" CreationDate="2015-09-15T11:59:31.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst a monocoque may not feature a separate chassis, you do still require items such as chassis rails, floor pans, centre tunnels and sills (rockers) which are all welded together to form the monocoque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look specifically at Volkswagen, take for example the Mk3 Golf (as I know these cars fairly intimately) the engine and gearbox sit on a couple of bolt up cross members which form a kind of sub-frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sub-frame is virtually identical to the one found in the previous Mk2 Golf and Corrado, it is identical to the unit found in the MK3 Jetta / Vento and is also found in the Seat Ibiza along with several other cars.  Indeed the whole substructure of the front end of the Mk3 Golf is identical to that found in the Mk3 Jetta / Vento with only cosmetic panels and trim items such as bumpers, grill and headlights being changed to give the appearance of the two cars being different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true of components such as brakes, suspension, wishbones, CV joints, etc, etc, etc...  The wining looms are also based on a common design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at more recent cars such as the Mk4 Golf, this again shares a majority of underpinning parts with the Mk4 Jetta / Bora and the Audi A3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move up to the Mk5 Golf and you find that the Mk6 Golf is again using the same substructural design, as is the Jetta again.  The Passat uses the same sub-structure up until the middle of the car where some panels are elongated to give the car a longer wheelbase, alternative wishbones are used to give the car a wider track.  You can then look at cars like the EOS and see something which is based on a Mk5 / Mk6 Golf substructure (i.e. floor pans, sills, wheelbase, etc) but uses Passat wishbones to give it a wider track and improved handling.  The latest Scirocco also uses the same Mk5 Golf &quot;platform&quot; but with restyled bodypanels and a lower roof line to give the car a more sporty appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest Mk7 Golf uses something called the MBQ platform which is the latest cross-car platform and incorporates spaces for things like batteries for electric version, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Platform sharing reduces development time as designers can concentrate on the styling of a new model without having to worry about how it will handle or how it will perform in crash testing.  Also, dealerships can train their mechanics on a single platform and they are then able to service all cars that use that family or generation of platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T11:59:31.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T15:28:33.373" Score="2" ViewCount="4554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have completed a full engine rebuild, down to the bare block, of my Tacoma.  Replaced all the gaskets, cleaned and lapped all the valves tight, tuned the valve lashes to spec, cleaned everything, replaced the starter, torqued to spec etc.  It was a 3 month effort working on it a couple of nights a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night was the turn key night. I must admit I was nervous, as it was the biggest automotive repair I had ever done. The engine started fine but then I notices something like smoke coming out of the catalytic converter and around both the exhaust manifolds.  I thought it may be the excess engine assembly lube I used to put everything back together but soon I realized it wasn't smoke -- it was steam.  When I went to the tail pipe, it was confirmed, the vapor coming out was definitely steam and there was some condensation inside the pipe as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this is normal for a major rebuild that perhaps some moisture condensed inside the cylinders and it had to find its way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran it idle for about one hour, steaming had stopped, then drove it about 20 min and everything was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T15:45:44.393" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:51:29.923" Title="Steam out of exhaust after complete engine rebuild" Tags="|engine|rebuild|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2015-09-15T15:54:25.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of climate are you in? It's quite common to see steam coming out of the exhaust of a cold car if you're in a damp climate - water condenses on the cold metal all the way through the system, then evaporates off as it heats up. It usually stops after a few minutes as the car gets up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T15:54:25.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21087" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:10:20.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular strap clamps do not work as well.  It's common to get cold-flow leakage around them whereas the spring clamps work better across the wide range of temperatures.  If you have a strap clamp, you end up overtightening them to try and compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:10:20.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21096" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:13:15.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely you need a new caliper.  The pistons will stick and drag slightly when they're in need of overhaul/replacement.  If any of the wheels are hot after driving, that's a very likely problem.  You may or may not smell the classic &quot;brake smell&quot;.  If they're only sticking slightly, you won't notice the drag while driving, you'll just see the extra pad wear and you can feel the extra heat generated after higher-speed driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:13:15.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:14:57.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only advantage I can think of is with a vehicle that has carbs.  Often (but not always), the higher octane fuels have less Ethanol.  Ethanol left sitting on carbs leads to fouling.  So, higher octane, which may have less Ethanol, gives you a better chance of not having to deal with fouled carbs down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:14:57.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16045" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:18:40.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 200 for the 'Rear Differential Lock' diagram... The 'RR Diff Lock' switch simply passes ignition voltage (+12) to an input on the ECU (R) pin. When the ECU sees this signal it controls an electric motor to lock the differental via the (M1) (M2) pins. This happens via an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;h-bridge&quot;&gt;h-bridge&lt;/a&gt; (inside the ecu), which is capable of reversing the current through the motor to turn it in one direction or the other. (RLY1) and (RLY2) are limiting switches to stop the motor from turning too far in either direction. It appears the switches close to&#xA;ground when the limit is reached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not too familiar with this differential specifically, but my educated guess is that it is an 'adjustable' slip differential. As the motor turns it can increase or decrease the amount of 'slip' between the two wheels speeds. So one limit is 'open', the other is 'locked', and a variable 'limited' in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU can be bypassed, but the solution would require some circuitry to do so (more than just a simple switch). If you're interested in going down this path let me know and I'll sketch something out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;SAFETY NOTICE&lt;/em&gt; - You'll also notice in this diagram that 'SPD' or speed is an input to the ECU. The ECU won't allow the driver to lock the Differential if the speed is over a certain preset. This is because fully locking a differential at high speeds can be dangerous and unpredictable, especially while in a turn/curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:56:10.250" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T14:56:10.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:49:12.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a non-issue. HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide) in the exahust combine with oxygen to become Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and Water (H2O). When the exhaust is cold the water can condense enough to show as water vapor or even as dripping water from the tailpipe. The water is always in the exhaust, but when the engine and exhaust system is hot enough it 'boils off' the water vapor into steam, which you can't see with the naked eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is easy to see in action in the sky behind jet-powered airplanes; because the atmosphere is so cold where the plane is (~30,000ft), the water vapor in the exhaust condenses back into a 'trail' that we can usually see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T22:51:29.923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:51:29.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:06:14.547" Score="3" ViewCount="3100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan. When the running lights are on, one of the headlights is on.  When I turn the headlights on, they switch; the one that was on with the running lights turns off, and the one that was off with the running lights turns on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I googled this and on another forum (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotiveforums.com/t356943-help__weird_headlight_problem_01_caravan_.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) one reply said it was simply a wire that needed to be cleaned or replaced. I'm just looking for a confirmation or 2nd opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other replies there say the contacts on the Front Control Module (FCM) need to be cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12224" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T19:53:56.267" Title="Dodge Caravan headlights; 1 on with running lights, other on with headlights" Tags="|electrical|dodge|headlight|caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:22:42.503" Score="5" ViewCount="18878" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003UM8VV0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;air IMPACT wrench&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00004XOSY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;air RATCHET wrench&lt;/a&gt;? They &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to be of the same sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference in the drive shape in that the impact has a different drive to which the sockets are shaped so they are not interchangeable with regular ratchet/breaker bar drive?  Or is the drive the same on both but the difference is purely in the torque range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T23:08:38.953" Title="Air Impact Wrench vs Air Ratchet Wrench" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:30:06.343" Score="2" ViewCount="9215" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time I saved a good tire and gave it to the tire place to replace one of my other tires, they said they couldn't due to dry rot. I had stored it in a plastic bag in a shed subject to seasonal temperature variations for 2 years, and it was less than 5 years old.  That tire became a tire swing, but now I have a complete set of tires about 2 years old with very little wear that could be used on my vehicle in another few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all tires dry rot regardless of storage, or is there a way to store them so they will last longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I better off selling them and saving the money for when I need tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T11:38:38.580" Title="Can dry rot be prevented for long term storage?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21112" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:55:01.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The difference is in torque (twisting capability)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact wrenches are designed to output higher torque than ratchets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the linked products, the impact wrench churns out 180 lb-ft while the air ratchet gives just 70 lb-ft in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy example that can illustrate the difference is a wheel lug nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When undoing wheel nuts by hand, you will find that increasing lever length makes it easier to undo the nut. It is quite possible that a regular wheel wrench will bend before the nut budges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An impact wrench will have a better prospect of cracking the nut loose by virtue of its higher torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air ratchets are useful for loosening/tightening multitudes of low-to-medium torque bolts. You don't want to use an impact wrench here because it can easily over-torque the bolts and cause damage to the threads or snap off the bolt heads or studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T17:55:01.300" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21008" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:03:23.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Unfortunately, thread locker won't help here&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because the thread is damaged, and thread locker needs thread to help secure the bolt in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No thread → no grip → bolt will still spin in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Helicoil is the standard go-to solution to solve this mess&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other alternatives, but no shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17110/675&quot;&gt;metal putty&lt;/a&gt;, which should allow you to fill the hole and recreate new thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/9423/675&quot;&gt;Keen-serts&lt;/a&gt;, if the Helicoil repair didn't work out as planned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:03:23.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19304" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:10:38.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the ABS hydraulic modulator. Vauxhall state this in a technical service bulletin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complaint: Noises during engine start and low speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of customer complaint please inform the customer that the&#xA;ABS/ESP system starts self check after every engine start and with&#xA;low speed. This behaviour is documented in the owner manual too. No&#xA;parts needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the battery is replaced, I assume it also does a self test as well. Check the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is normal, but it should not happen all the time. If it flattens the battery then check it again. Your battery could just be dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:10:38.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21123" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:15:21.927" Score="1" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;My driveway does not have a dropped kerb, so every day I have to bump up and down the kerb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this do any damage to my suspension or tyres doing this every day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do it quickly (say at 5mph), will it eventually destroy my suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kerb is about 7cm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T09:48:41.823" Title="Does &quot;bumping&quot; up and down a kerb damage my car?" Tags="|suspension|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1141" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:21:06.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small- to mid-size jobs, such as operating air impact wrenches, air pistols, and maybe some moderate spray painting, I strongly recommend a portable double hot dog air compressor where I believe the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0001Q2VPK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makita MAC2400&lt;/a&gt; is the market leader, at least the one I have.  I have only recently been using it for automotive purposes and before I used it for extensive home remodeling, including framing, hardwood, roofing, trim and other types of nailers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It currently sits in my shed, which I have mostly been using for automotive work.  There are many people who will over-advise the size you need claiming that you need at least 40 gal 150 psi tanks to run an impact wrench but, for most backyard mechanic purposes (for maybe taking off lug nuts or really stubborn bolts once in a blue moon), a small one like this will do just fine. Don't buy into the bigger the better philosophy of many people in some societies (not to name any names but you can guess who I'm talking about.  The same folk that buy F250 just to go to the supermarket and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:21:06.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:25:26.093" Score="16" ViewCount="72612" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000JM93YS&quot;&gt;impact&lt;/a&gt; vs &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NJ63Q8&quot;&gt;regular&lt;/a&gt; ratchet/breaker bar sockets?  They look similarly shaped and their corresponding tool drives seem to be of the same dimensions. Are the impact stronger?  If I have impact in one size, do I need regular for using them on manual ratchets or breaker bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T15:04:14.823" Title="Impact vs. Regular Sockets" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21119" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:36:19.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;To my knowledge the difference is down to the material used&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact sockets look black because the surface is carbonized (aka drop-forged) in order to harden the surface. The surface-hardening enables impact sockets to absorb sudden torque changes (aka &quot;impact&quot;) better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With high enough impact, a regular socket may warp out of shape because the steel used there is softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost aside, I cannot think of any drawbacks for using an impact socket with a regular ratchet or breaker bar, just that it is a bit overkill (similar to using a space-grade ballpoint pen to jot down notes on Earth - the ability to roll out ink without relying on gravity is wasted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T18:42:17.373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:42:17.373" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:51:31.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it isn't condensed water inside the engine, which by the way accumulates if you drive your vehicle on short distances and not allow it to reach &lt;em&gt;operating temperature&lt;/em&gt;, it's probably related with the coolant cycle and some gasket faulty cylinder gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it persist (I strongly hope not) and you want to be 100% sure, you could do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure check on your coolant system for leak. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C02 test on your coolant system for cylinder leak, i.e. faulty gasket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:51:31.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:53:40.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The slower you go, the longer they'll last&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All suspension components (springs, shocks, control arms) are made of materials that last for a certain number of cycles before failing due to fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many cycles before failure will be governed by the stress that the suspension components are made to endure, which will depend on the height of the kerb and the speed at which the wheels hit the kerb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:53:40.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21119" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:04:25.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition, (from the product description):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heavy-duty Socket Construction:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...drive impact sockets that feature a rugged, &lt;strong&gt;heavy-duty chrome vanadium&lt;/strong&gt; steel construction with a corrosion-resistant black electroplate finish. These six-point, beveled-nose sockets lock onto drive tang for secure use. And they meet or exceed American National Standards Institute (ANSI) specifications.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flank Drive Socket Design:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...impact sockets have a &lt;strong&gt;flank drive design that maximizes torque while eliminating damage to fastener&lt;/strong&gt;. A basic socket relies almost entirely on contact with the corners of a fastener. Under high stress, the socket can begin to slip on the fastener and quickly round off its corners. Instead of contacting corners, which have little surface area, flank drive grips the flat sides of fastener, which have a much broader surface area. Large amounts of torque can be safely delivered to the fastener without risk of corner round off. The flank drive design also reduces the stresses on the socket itself for a longer tool life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T19:04:25.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:16:22.103" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am posting pictures of my front spoiler. Can any of you instruct me on how to fix this, or whether it cannot be fixed and needs to be replaced? I am not very handy, and have never fixed any parts of a car, but I am very good at following directions, can be very patient, and don't want to shell 300 bucks to replace this, which seems a minor issue.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81bCV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81bCV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spoiler loose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12225" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T00:30:01.947" Title="Corolla 2009: I would like to fix my front spoiler myself" Tags="|corolla|body-work|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21125" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:26:06.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That should be pretty simple.  You should try to (carefully) remove the whole piece of flare and you will notice it is attached to the body via small plastic clips that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oySUA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oySUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are called &lt;strong&gt;fender clips&lt;/strong&gt; and are probably best ordered on eBay.  You insert them in the sockets on the body side and then click the flare over them sort of like clothing snap-on buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is strongly dependent on both the body and flare not being mangled.  I was unable to have clips reliably hold my fender flare because the fender (metal part integral to my truck) was bent out of shape as a result of an accident (as can be seen from the uneven surface around both clips in the picture) so I had to use sheetmetal screws but I made it look cool.  I hope you won't have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T00:30:01.947" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T00:30:01.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:55:53.860" Score="1" ViewCount="3859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus and my overflow is either bubbling or boiling but my engine doesn't over heat until I have drove for about 30 minutes or so. I just had my alternator and tensioner pulley replaced. What could be wrong&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12229" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T21:59:18.397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:54:32.210" Title="My overflow is bubbling or boiling but my car isnt overheating" Tags="|dodge|overheating|stratus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:03:30.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking - the Alternator and Tensioner Pulley should not have any relation to the cooling system, unless somehow the water pump is belt driven and the mechanic put the belts on incorrectly, but I don't think this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rubber hose you can carefully reach with your hand going from the radiator to the engine / coolant housing? Is that hose super inflated / tight when you squeeze it (when the issue is happening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely you have something like a stuck thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11770" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T20:03:30.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21131" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:15:00.880" Score="7" ViewCount="34497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not too car-savvy but I want to start working on my car on my own. My first challenge has arisen: replace battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to concern myself with being shocked while trying to change the battery? Do I need gloves or will it be safe to replace the battery without them if the car is off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:49:00.837" Title="Is it recommended/necessary to wear rubber gloves while replacing a car battery?" Tags="|battery|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:38:22.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Gloves are not essential, but highly recommended&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When replacing a car battery there are three potential hazards that relate to safety:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;electrical hazard - the battery is capable of generating 100's of amps' worth of current. You want to avoid shorting the two terminals with something like a wrench, cable or hand jewellery. In this regard, gloves can help reduce the risk of shorting the battery with hand jewellery, but the prudent thing to do is not do anything to short the battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;chemical hazard - battery acid is highly acidic and not to to be messed with. In case the battery water overflows or develops a leak gloves would be essential here, though I don't expect this to be too much of an issue while changing maintenance-free batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;falling hazard - batteries are heavy and can cause considerable damage if one were to fall on your toes. Gloves won't do much good here (unless they provide better grip).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all situations, the onus is on you to be careful while replacing the battery. Wearing gloves will not guarantee you your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T09:49:00.837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:49:00.837" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21135" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:46:02.023" Score="2" ViewCount="14182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see hundreds of exhaust scrapes on speed humps and things, or general gashes in the direction in which cars travel over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does hitting the exhaust on bumps damage the car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably blindingly obvious, but how does it happen? I mean in my 2003 Opel Agila I've never hit the exhaust, and gone over humps at about 30mph (~50kph), and haven't bottomed out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T21:51:51.417" Title="Does hitting the exhaust on bumps (Bottoming Out) damage my car?" Tags="|suspension|exhaust|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21132" CreationDate="2015-09-15T21:04:45.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scrapes on the road you are seeing are probably people dragging hitches from their minivans that weren't designed for towing. I'm sure you have seen cars and vans with hitches sitting a little lower to the ground than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for hitting the exhaust on bumps, again this is normally cars that are low to the ground or have been modified (usually to be lower to the ground). If the only thing that is hitting is the exhaust, that's all that will be damaged. The extend of this depends on the situation, but you could potentially rip out a large portion of your exhaust system. Other than that, you'll probably just get some dings on the muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T21:04:45.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21132" CreationDate="2015-09-15T21:51:51.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is yes, if you drag your exhaust over the speed bumps, it will cause damage to your car. It will be mainly localized to the exhaust on the vehicle. Besides flattening out the exhaust pipes, you also put stress on the joints and the hangers for the different mounting points. If you hit the exhaust hard enough, you can cause further damage to the under side where the exhaust may be pushed up into other parts. If hit hard enough, it can also force damage up into the exhaust manifolds on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage to the speed bump could be caused from any of several reasons. It happens when the lowest part of the car is not high enough to go over the speed bump. It might be the exhaust which hits (most likely part on modified cars). It could also be other parts. For instance, I had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/images/2202New.jpg&quot;&gt;an aftermarket torque arm&lt;/a&gt; on my 94 Camaro Z28. The mount for it hung low due to it's design which allowed the single exhaust pipe to go through without touching it. It was in the center of the vehicle. Since it hung low, then add in 1.5&quot; worth of drop from lowering springs, this made it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; tough to go over speed bumps without hitting anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T21:51:51.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19429" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:27:48.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you already found the culprit. If you can 'jiggle' wires in the harness and cause any change in how the engine is running this is NOT normal. Unfortunately this is one issue that has to be diagnosed in-person as there are too many variables when it comes to wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by checking ground wiring first. This is easiest to do because you can perform a continuity (resistance) test between the negative post of the battery and the different grounding points in the harness. Sensors such as MAP and TPS have the biggest impact on how the engine runs so I would check the wiring related to these next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T23:27:48.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T23:35:38.547" Score="0" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much should it cost to change to brake fluid on a ford fiesta 2012 Hatch, I believe that I may be being overcharged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T01:00:15.683" Title="How much should it cost to change to brake fluid on a ford fiesta 2012 Hatch" Tags="|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-09-16T19:21:12.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21137" CreationDate="2015-09-16T01:00:15.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be about an hours worth of labor plus the cost of the fluid. The labor rates vary depending on your area so the actual monetary amount is hard to pin down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T01:00:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T03:18:55.433" Score="4" ViewCount="6045" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my monitors are in ready mode, only a &lt;kbd&gt;P1110&lt;/kbd&gt; code left, for which I have installed booster pipe O-ring, new booster valve or hooter valve, my only culprit left is the vacuum valve on firewall, and I did order a new vacuum valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe in Murphy's Law and don't know if that is my last choice to fix &lt;kbd&gt;P1110&lt;/kbd&gt; code or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12143" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T15:13:09.347" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T20:12:59.437" Title="Could a vacuum valve be responsible for a P1110 code on 2001 Saab 9-5 2.3T with check engine light on?" Tags="|saab|9-5|turbocharger|p1110|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21054" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:44:54.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since both gears are trash, use a cut off wheel, and cut parallel to the key. Once through it should pop right off with out much effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T04:44:54.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15485" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:54:44.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say 2004 XT so I am guessing that this is a Forester XT with the 2.5 litre EJ25 engine with turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve cover gaskets on EJ25's (and many other EJ engines) will leak oil if unchanged. The primary culprit is usually the spark plug well gaskets, which after a decade or so of heat cycling and compression go from flexible rubber to near rock. This is easy to see if it is ocurring as you simply remove the spark plug tubes and see if there is oil pooling around the gasket just inside the tube. More advanced cases will see oil making it's way down the outside of the valve cover. This can also impact the spark plugs as they may be sitting in oil which causes them to deteriorate over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that valve cover leaking is an easy job to fix. The bad news is that it may not be the issue as bad cases of this will result in oil on hot engine parts/exhaust and poor ignition (i.e. less power). It is unlikely that it would be causing smoke from the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoke from the exhaust could be the result of one or two blown head gaskets. This can usually be identified by looking to see if there is oil on the driver's side (US) front half-axle - as the driver's side is usually the first head gasket to go. If there is oil there, it is most likely coming from the head gasket. An inspection under the car will allow this to be confirmed by looking at the line between the cylinder head and engine. Foresters of your age will range from a small seep to severe leaks. If there is a severe leak and the exhaust is smoking, coolant is probably being passed into the cylinder and thus the smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no head gasket problem (or only a small weep), then the issue may be timing belt related. The timing belts are very tough but according to a 2006 Impreza manual sitting in front of me, the timing belts should be replaced at 60,000 miles (or 100,000 km). So at 98,500 miles, you are nearly 40,000 miles past the replacement date. I'm uncertain what exactly will occur with a deteriorated timing belt, possibly smoke due but almost certainly poor power as the belt stretches and the timing goes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing head gaskets and/or the timing belt are not simple jobs. You should try and ascertain the issue and find a Subaru non-dealer who will do these for you. The timing belt is critical as these are interference engines. If the belt breaks, you will be looking for new valves, new cylinder heads and thus likely a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T04:54:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2015-09-16T09:48:41.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not worry about the suspension since cars are designed to do it, unless you drive at crazy speeds your suspension should be able to handle the kerb for a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The component which might give in should be the damper or the oil seals, the coils are much more sturdier and wont be affected by this kerb , again I am exaggerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom-line: Dont worry kerb wont damage your suspension if your are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T09:48:41.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T09:59:54.223" Score="1" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Mustang GT, and I love the deceleration &quot;pop&quot; that you get when the engine revs climb without the accelerator being pressed, so as one might surmise, I tend to downshift to a stop at lights and stop signs to hear that &quot;pop pop rumble&quot;. Generally it's from 5th at 40 mph to 2nd, which is well under redline, but it's a large enough increase in engine RPM to give a few good pops. I haven't noticed any signs of additional wear and tear, but I figuredd I should ask those more versed in this sort of knowledge than I about it. Is there any significant increase in wear and tear on any of the drivetrain components from doing this?  Things I can think of are maybe the clutch, the transmission output shaft seal, and possibly the gears themselves either in the transmission or in the rear end, but I think those last two are unlikely. I'm thinking over time I might end up clogging a cat as well, but I'm not exactly sure how quickly that would happen either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T21:45:01.617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:45:01.617" Title="Downshifting to a stop- wear and tear?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|drivetrain|wear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21145" CreationDate="2015-09-16T10:26:21.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The synchros will be forced to bear the brunt of downshifting like this&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The synchromesh gears are gears inside the manual transmission designed to help the engine transition smoothly to its new RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will wear out eventually, but the wear and tear will be accelerated by downshifting without adding throttle to help the engine match its new speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The act of adding throttle helps by increasing engine speed, allowing it to accommodate the ratio of the lower gear without loading the synchros as much. If the throttle input is such that the engine-to-driveshaft speed ratio corresponds to the gear ratio (rev-matching), the synchro has nothing to do (zero load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn synchro will result in a crunchier, more notchy gearshift. It makes shifts more difficult to perform. In such a case, refreshing transmission fluid will only have a temporary effect. The only true remedy is to replace the worn synchro, which involves pulling out the transmission from the vehicle and disassembling the gearbox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downshifting without throttle input will accelerate wear on the clutch as well, but not to the same extent as what the synchros will experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think downshifts will result in clogged catalytic converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T10:32:52.823" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T10:32:52.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21113" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:38:38.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=dry%20rot%20tire&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dry rot&lt;/a&gt; is typically the result of one of two processes.  The first is UV damage from the sun, and the second is simple exposure to air.  The rubber compounds break down due to exposure. Tire companies add carbon black to help with UV exposure, and a wax to prevent air exposure.  The wax is throughout the tire, and apparently redistributes itself slowly through normal usage - rolling, flexing, and heating and cooling cycles. Tires that are not used typically dry rot faster than tires that are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry rot can be seen as cracks, primarily in the sidewall. If they are greater than 1/32&quot; (0.8mm) in width then they are considered too rotted to safely use, and may result in leaks or blowouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers typically indicate that tires should not be used past 6-10 years, as the protective compounds have almost always worn out by then and dry rot is very likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water based tire protectants can extend the life of the tires a little - avoid petroleum based protectants, as they can remove the tire's own protective chemicals at the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If storing a tire for an extended period of time using a water based tire protectant and storing it away from heat and light in a neutral position (not bearing weight, inflated if on a hub) will provide the greatest life.  As dry rot is a natural expected process, though, it will still occur and cannot be prevented, only delayed a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the DOT number, the last 3 or 4 digits (4 digits for newer tires) show the date of manufacture.  2210 would indicate the 22nd week of 2010. If it's less than 6 years old and doesn't show cracks in the sidewall, or the cracks are few and under 1/32&lt;sup&gt;nd&lt;/sup&gt;&quot; (0.8mm) wide, then the tire is probably safe to use.  If it's older than 6 years or has wider cracks, it's unsafe to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire is only 1-2 years old, you may be able to store it for another few years, but keep in mind that they'll continue to dry rot after you start using them again, so if you think you'll get 3 years of active use out of the tire, and it's already 2 years old, then you can really only expect to store it for a year before you start losing remaining life on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question about store or sell should be made on the useful life left on the tire.  If they are new and you drive a lot, you can probably store them for 2-3 years and still get their full life from them.  If they are 2-3 years old, have decent tread left, and you don't drive very much, you may find they dry rot before you use up the tread. Variation between manufacturers and even between tires within a manufacturer may mean some tires don't dry rot for 10 years, while others are unusable after 6 years.  It doesn't appear that there's an easy way to determine the difference, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T11:38:38.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:39:21.577" Score="3" ViewCount="1378" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I turn the steering wheel 20 degrees is not return to the center, I tested it with the low and high speeds, someone told me that in electric steering this is normal and it is not a problem, is it true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:56:31.387" Title="Steering wheel doesnt return to center in peugeot 108" Tags="|peugeot|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21152" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:41:10.630" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie car driver (I got the license few days ago). I am about to get a used car and I am perplexed regarding which one to get.&#xA;My concern at the moment is what is the maximum mileage that I should stick to.&#xA;For example, if there is a BMW 318i (Oct-2004) with  138500 km, is that OK?&#xA;is there a rule of thumb for the OK mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12240" LastEditorUserId="33024" LastEditDate="2019-10-05T22:52:52.217" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T22:52:52.217" Title="Advice for buying used car" Tags="|bmw|used|buying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18926" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:47:31.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've stated this is a hub assembly, so we know there isn't any 'user error' in how the bearings are pre-loaded or the grease is packed. You've also stated there is 'substantial play' in the bearing, which certainly is not normal for a pressed bearing hub assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 suggested this may be a production run issue, which is rare but possible. I'm assuming you got the warranty replacement part from the same store, who could have received a 'batch' of bearings from the same production run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other issue I can think of is that the bearing is being overheated by a constantly engaged 'dragging' brake. Check that the wheel rotates freely after installing the hub and adjusting your parking brake. If this is not the issue, take the part back to the store and let them know whats going on. Request a refund and buy your part from a different store and/or manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T15:47:31.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18582" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:53:32.820" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with modern cars is they are too much electronically based.the ac of any car is a heavy load on the system.when a person starts his/her car it is always recommended to start the car at a lower level of ac power.the relays of the car like any protection device get the car in its &quot;safety turn-off&quot; to avoid any major breakdowns.&#xA;The issue with your car could be...&#xA;1)the vibrations could be because of the sudden load on the engine,making the rpm drop which is not a big issue but you should consider buying a new battery as this is caused because of voltage drops.&#xA;2) the brakes being hard...well, the only time brakes get hard to press is when there is air blocked in the pistons.you can check it when the car is turned off,keep pressing the brakes for a few times and they become hard to press but as you start the car the trapped air moves out and the brakes are fine again.which might be your case as well.your car being low in voltage,sending a message that the car is turned off,making the steering and brakes hard.when the ac was turned off(load taken off)the car was running fine,wasn't it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12184" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T16:53:32.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21149" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:05:25.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mileage of the car doesn't matter as people can get the mileage reversed. Which make the buyer dumb infront of them. I sugget you Look for the obvious signs like the head-gasket's condition, any oil leaks, try looking at the under-frame,signs of rust,check the relay box.(reason, because the relays are long lasting in most cases,and if they're replaced means major issues in the past.)then you can check the chassis number,confirm it with the local bmw center(in your case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12184" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T17:05:25.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21154" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:42:01.297" Score="11" ViewCount="94633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously running your engine at too high an RPM for too long isn't good.  But what about running it &lt;del&gt;too low?&lt;/del&gt; not so low that it stalls &lt;em&gt;or lugs&lt;/em&gt;, but within around 1,000 RPM?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you get better gas mileage?  Would it wear out the engine or transmission faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, going 20 mph in 5th gear down a quiet city street that you know has no stop signs for half a mile or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:21:25.763" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T09:19:09.373" Title="Is it bad to drive slow at low rpms in 4th or 5th gear? Do you get better gas mileage?" Tags="|engine|rpm|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21153" CreationDate="2015-09-16T18:26:55.047" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, no it isn't bad for your car to keep it in as high a gear as you can while still maintaining speed. As long as you are above idle in RPM and your engine isn't lugging, you aren't doing any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2161/fuel-efficiency-and-shifting-rpm/2170#2170&quot;&gt;See this link for more information about lugging.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you might do this to be quieter and for fuel efficiency. Your car will certainly be quieter, so this is one advantage. As for fuel efficiency, there is such a thing as being in too high a gear in &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt; situations. Because of the vacuum created when the throttle is closed, and it will be close to closed at such a low RPM, you could potentially be making your engine work more to maintain speed than you would be if you were in a lower gear. This would mean you wouldn't be driving at optimum fuel efficiency. Of course, this depends on your car and many other factors, so there's no way to be sure being in 5th gear is worse for your fuel economy than being in 4th gear at such a low speed. If I had to guess, you will still be getting better fuel economy in 5th gear at 1,000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, to maximize fuel efficiency, use as high a gear as you can manage for the power required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T18:39:04.927" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21153" CreationDate="2015-09-16T20:39:02.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on the size of car and type of engine, but a modern car might have the tools to answer the question built-in. On my (base model, small, European, 6-year-old) car, just switch the dashboard display to show instantaneous fuel consumption and drive at constant speed on a quiet road. The current base-model version of the same car also comes with a gear-change indicator that suggests when changing up a gear will save fuel. I've only driven that model a few times, but it certainly suggested 5th gear instead of 4th at below 30 MPH in town driving. That gave about 1000-1200 RPM compared with the hot idle speed of about 850. (The logic includes the throttle position as well as the RPM - i.e. if you are trying to accelerate in the current gear, it is less likely to suggest you change up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you try something unrealistic (like trying to drive up a 20% gradient in 5th gear at 30 mph) the engine management system stops RPM dropping below idle speed in any case, by increasing the fuel supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T20:39:02.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21153" CreationDate="2015-09-16T20:52:33.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - Yes to mileage; no to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you get better gas mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb would be to run your vehicle in the highest gear possible &lt;em&gt;without lugging the engine&lt;/em&gt;. This means if you can drive down the road at 1000rpm at 20mph, you will get better gas mileage than you will driving 20mph at 1500rpm. When you try to accelerate in the higher gear, this is where you will experience higher fuel consumption because you will need to be on the accelerator longer in order to obtain the higher speed. This is due to the lower torque available to the rear wheels. In a lower gear, relative torque is increased and you will gain your higher speed faster with the same (or less) amount of throttle input, which means you can upshift your transmission and get your RPMs down again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it wear out the engine or transmission faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just cruising at the lower speed in the higher gear &lt;em&gt;will not incur any extra wear to engine or transmission&lt;/em&gt;. In fact, you'll see less wear due to running the engine at a lower speed. That difference will not be much of a difference, but there will be a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an engine is ran within tolerance (normal driving) for it's entire life, maintenance is kept up, and all else is normal, it stands to reason that there will only be &lt;em&gt;so many revolutions&lt;/em&gt; an engine will make until it is worn out. If there is a set amount of revolutions an engine will make, running it at a lower rpm at the same vehicle speed will help it to last longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate something, though ... all that I wrote is dependent upon your premise of a flat road without stopping or accelerating. When you throw any hills, slowing, or speeding up into the mix, all bets are off. Downshift as needed so you aren't putting undue strain on your drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T20:52:33.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:54:32.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many things can cause a car to overheat, however if you've just had some work done I would start the search there. Check the serpentine belt routing to make sure it was put on correctly. On some cars the belt will fit in 2 or 3 different ways, but only 1 way is correct. In this case the water pump could be turning backwards, which could certainly cause an engine to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:54:32.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21148" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:56:31.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably, you need an alignment. The part of alignment which causes your wheel to return to center is called &lt;em&gt;caster&lt;/em&gt; (the other two major portions of alignment are toe-in and camber). Here is a representation of the caster alignment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wX0Af.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wX0Af.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carparts.com/alignment.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; gives a pretty good explanation of caster and how it affects driving in your car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you turn the steering wheel, the front wheels respond by turning on a pivot attached to the suspension system. Caster is the angle of this steering pivot, measured in degrees, when viewed from the side of the vehicle. If the top of the pivot is leaning toward the rear of the car, then the caster is positive, if it is leaning toward the front, it is negative. If the caster is out of adjustment, it can cause problems in straight line tracking. If the caster is different from side to side, the vehicle will pull to the side with the less positive caster. If the caster is equal but too negative, the steering will be light and the vehicle will wander and be difficult to keep in a straight line. If the caster is equal but too positive, the steering will be heavy and the steering wheel may kick when you hit a bump. Caster has little affect on tire wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your steering wheel is not turning back to center after a corner, you probably either not enough, or negative caster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:56:31.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T23:28:14.407" Score="2" ViewCount="11093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Acura 3.2 TL with a Napa legend 75 battery would putting a 1000 watt amp and 2 15 subs hurt my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12247" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T00:13:37.243" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T07:53:05.393" Title="Will putting new subs and amp in car drain my battery" Tags="|audio|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T00:38:07.397" Score="4" ViewCount="5305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ford Taurus 3.0 L V6. I have had trouble off and on with it running hot for about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I put a new thermostat on it and it seemed to fix the problem.  Month or so later, it started doing it again.  Thought I might have gotten a bad one or not gotten it on exactly right.  Got another one.  Didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fan didn't seem to be working right - replaced the relays, which helped the fan but it still ran hot.  Particularly going uphill.  I'd come home and the trip up the driveway would have it registered hot and steam and water coming out from under the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flushed the system and put in new water pump.  Fixed it for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started losing water from the pipe running behind the engine where it splits and one goes under the dash and one around under the engine. Used quik steel and pretty much got that fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fan quit working - rigged it so that I can turn it on and off with a switch in the car.  Now, instead of leaking a little, it's spewing from under the cap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 30 minutes driving, with the fan on and the gauge registering normal, the water begins spewing from under the cap.  It doesn't register as hot until too much water has spewed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a new cap - didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check engine light came on.  Went to auto parts store, they checked it and said it was misfiring on one cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no water in the oil or oil in the water.  From what I've read of misfires, that shouldn't be forcing the water out from under the cap.  If I could blow it up, I would but I need to be able to drive it until I can afford something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radiator is enclosed so I can't get to it to check it out.  Any and all suggestions welcome (except using a flamethrower instead of a grenade - I already thought of that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12249" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T12:54:50.390" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T12:54:50.390" Title="Coolant boils over but temp gauge registers normal" Tags="|ford|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21167" CreationDate="2015-09-17T05:30:22.923" Score="4" ViewCount="3011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I owe &lt;code&gt;Mazda 3 4 door AT 2011 model Gasoline Engine&lt;/code&gt;, and I have got it second hand. The total Kilometers on the dash is around &lt;code&gt;20K&lt;/code&gt;. Last night I drove may car from my office to home which is around &lt;code&gt;4KM&lt;/code&gt;, today morning when I am trying to start the car its not starting.&#xA;I don't recall &lt;code&gt;Low engine Oil Pressure&lt;/code&gt; warning last night when I drove back home, but today, I can see &lt;code&gt;Low Engine Oil Pressure&lt;/code&gt; is flashing. The &lt;code&gt;battery&lt;/code&gt; seems to be ok, as &lt;code&gt;lights&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;AC&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;music system&lt;/code&gt; all are working fine. The &lt;code&gt;oil gauge&lt;/code&gt; shows that the engine oil is low, and I was planning to change oil today. I don't recall any &lt;code&gt;burning smell&lt;/code&gt; due to low engine oil, or heavy engine sound last night when I drove back. Few days back when I had a drag issue (accelerating power drops), and when I got it checked they told me its a spark plug issue and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it because of low engine oil pressure the car is not starting up? (is it so automated in mazda 3 that car wont start?)&#xA;What can be other troubleshooting items for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T12:36:33.130" Title="Mazda 3 wont start" Tags="|starting|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21160" CreationDate="2015-09-17T07:24:21.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cylinder head gasket could have blown between a cylinder and the water jacket.  Use a compression tester to check the compression on each cylinder.  If the gasket has blown, you will have low compression on at least one cylinder.  You would only get a mix of oil and water if the gasket had blown between the oil and water ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T07:24:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21159" CreationDate="2015-09-17T07:53:05.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question title doesn't quite match the body... but I'll answer both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, this shouldn't harm your car - but that said, there are some things you may need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that you have good connections to ground - a 1000W amp can draw a lot of current&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll want a high current cable with inline fuse from your battery +ve to your amp. A sub being driven hard will draw more than your average car's wiring loom can cope with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the alternator is well maintained and gives a charging current of greater than the current draw of the amp :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you plan on playing your music loud when parked with the engine off, seriously consider getting an uprated battery or maybe even a second battery. It's embarrassing how fast you can drain a battery at a beach party...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T07:53:05.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21162" CreationDate="2015-09-17T12:36:33.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got It fixed today, the main problem was the Battery (Didn't realize until I took it to a service center). Regarding my questions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it because of low engine oil pressure the car is not starting up?&#xA;Is it so automated in mazda 3 that car wont start?&#xA;Well No, the model which I have at-least does not have this automatic feature to stop the car engine immediately, you need to be careful about the engine oil pressure level, and if you see the warning signal on your dashboard, stop the car immediately (what the service center guy suggested me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only part which was difficult to digest was the fact that the lights and A/c etc was working perfectly fine (as if the battery was really powerful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also post replacing the battery I don't feel the drag issue(accelerating power drops) as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for the help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T12:36:33.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:55:37.127" Score="1" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota 2014 4-Runner limited and I have a problem where the recirculation button will automatically turn off. It works fine when it's on, but is there a way to turn off the auto turn off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12257" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T13:55:37.127" Title="Automatic A/C recirculation problem" Tags="|electrical|toyota|ac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T10:00:44.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:29:20.777" Score="1" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install Halfords | Pioneer DEH-1700UB Car Stereo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to my 307 , 2003 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to takeout the factory fitted player.&#xA;Do I need additional adapters or kit to install this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T21:36:53.960" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:36:53.960" Title="Installing an aftermaret cd player Peugeot 307 2003" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3757" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:32:32.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 E500. Bought it with the sunshade not working in the up position. My mechanic checked all fuses concluded the motor was bad. Here is the easy fix. With the assistance of another person, apply gentle pressure to the scissor arms towards the center of the main cross bar. At the same time guide the main cross bar down. As the entire unit starts to collapse, it will go back inside fairly easily. Took about 45 seconds and did not cost me $1700. Just got the window tinted for $40. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12259" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T14:32:32.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21149" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:38:58.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a car of that sort of age, mileage is much less important than condition. Read through the guide Anarach posted in his comment above, and other online guides - ideally find one that is relevant to the make and model of the car you are looking at, as many models of car have particular issues to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, the 'average' driver drives 10-12000 miles per year, so I'd be looking for a car to have done around that - so a 10 year old car would have done around 100 - 120000 miles (160-190000km), but obviously this varies per country. I'd avoid any car with a suspiciously low mileage as noted in Saad's answer. Check the car's history where possible to see if the numbers add up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give is to take a more experienced/knowledgeable friend with you - no only will they be more likely to spot any problems, but the salesperson is less likely to lie to someone who appears to know what they are talking about, whereas a newbie buying their first car is, unfortunately, an easy victim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T14:38:58.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21176" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:29:35.873" Score="11" ViewCount="78415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to change a pressed wheel bearing without a hydraulic press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly it's better to do it the right way, which I'm doing (well, a mechanic is doing), but I was wondering if a viable alternative would be pressing the bearing in using a C clamp or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/VXx0oXyEq2k?t=8m40s&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; of a guy freezing the bearing and heating up the hub then just sliding the bearing in, but that seems like it would compromise the integrity of one or both of those parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T15:43:06.283" Title="How can you change a pressed wheel bearing without a hydraulic press?" Tags="|wheels|bearing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21149" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:03:02.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since different makes and models of vehicles have so much variety, a good bet would be to visit a forum dedicated to enthusiasts of that particular model of vehicle. Most likely you will be able to find a thread in any decent sized forum that talks about precisely what to look for on that model. Things are often common failures on specific models, like the aluminum intake manifold on the 5.4L Ford Triton engine in the first generation of Expedition had a tendency to crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The E46 (the BMW you mentioned in the original post fit s in the E46 family along with all other 3 series BMWs that were developed at about that time) has a history of water pump failure, various electrical issues are also fairly common, but all in all they hold up well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T16:03:02.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:45:09.407" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tools available that can do the job without &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kentool.com/index.php/products/pro-super-hub-shark&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;using a press&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zSRvO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zSRvO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more. The overall theme is the C-clamp like stile of pressing the bearing in and out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an old saying, there is a right tool for the job. These or a press is the right tool. There are other ways but you always run the risk of damaging the bearing, knuckle or both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T21:20:18.140" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:20:18.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T19:40:03.977" Score="2" ViewCount="3442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used Hyundai Santa Fe 2.6 engine.  This car stalls out every time it rains. You go through a puddle and the battery and brake warning lights come on and it loses power steering and brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told the belt could be getting wet and slipping. I'm now afraid to drive this car. I live in Florida and it rains a lot here. It's scary when you don't know if you are gonna stall out when you make a turn, but it seem to do it when the weather is damp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about what could be causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12262" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T01:14:22.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:39:08.843" Title="2006 Hyundai Santa Fe stalls in the rain" Tags="|hyundai|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21177" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:12:53.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number 1 reason for stalling problems when the weather is damp is tune up issues. Generally worn spark plug wires being the main cause. Get a spray bottle and fill it with tap water and just a little bit of salt. Use the spray bottle to lightly wet down the spark plug wires while the cars is running. If the engine stalls then you need a tune up. if there is a central coil be sure to wet that down as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T20:12:53.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21582" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:54:28.370" Score="8" ViewCount="18103" Body="&lt;p&gt;My washer jets are blocked up on the driver's side. I cannot get any water on this side to wash the windscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can use to unblock them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It seems the blockage is in the squirter itself, as it only happens on the driver's side. The passenger's works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was in the tubes, would I have to take the entire bonnett apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T21:14:59.673" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T19:35:23.543" Title="How to unblock washer jets?" Tags="|opel|windshield-washer|agila|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21171" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:59:18.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generically, in almost every aftermarket head unit install, you'll need two adapters to make it look and work correctly &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you'll need an adapter which functions as a face plate. This provides coverage for areas which the stereo itself does not cover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, You'll need an adapter to more easily get the wiring from the head unit to work with the wiring in the car. In a lot of cases, you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; this. You can hack the wiring in the car into oblivion and directly attach the head unit wiring into it. Two reasons why you wouldn't want to do this: 1) getting the adapter is much easier, faster, efficient; 2) if you ever want to put the stock unit back in, you've made a huge mess out of wiring harness, so would be a huge pain in the butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the adapter kits. They are usually relatively painless to the pocket book, especially if you want the installation to look its best and for the head unit to easily function correctly. Saves a lot of headaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T20:59:18.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:58:18.583" Score="0" ViewCount="13807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just curious if antifreeze has any purpose in climates where freezing temperatures are guaranteed not to happen. Can 100% distilled water be used just as effectively to cool the engine just like the regular 50/50 coolant mix would?  Or does the mix cool the engine more effectively regardless of freezing or outside temperatures in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T07:39:10.700" Title="Not using antifreeze in warm climates" Tags="|coolant|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-18T14:49:54.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21182" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:22:52.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethylene glycol based coolants should more correctly be called anti-freeze/anti-boil as they lower the chemical potential of the solution when added to water, making it less likely that the resulting mix will move to either the gas phase (boiling) or the solid phase (icing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lived for a number of years in a region where the lowest temperature in winter is well above freezing but conversely I have seen the occasional extreme in summer driving of temperatures up to 48C (118F). The engine temperature gauge in my Forester is usually very stable (partly because the firmware driving the gauge stabilizes the reading when it is within an acceptable operating range) but on this particular day I was driving heavily loaded and of course I had the air-conditioning running as well. I saw the gauge climb into the top 3/4 of the temperature gauge and given the extreme heat, I was VERY glad that I had an anti-boil mix in my radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only place in the US where you could get away without anti-freeze/anti-boil (i.e distilled water only) is Hawaii or Guam, given the thermostatic effect that the Pacific has on the temperatures in those locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As @Paulster2 has pointed out there is a good answer to this question as well and it deals with corrosion issues that I have not covered - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3572/running-with-straight-water-as-coolant-in-the-summer-is-it-fine&quot;&gt;Running with straight water as coolant in the summer. Is it fine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T00:45:38.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T00:42:10.850" Score="5" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned a 2011 EFI Hyosung GT250R for about a month.  I haven't had any problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I was riding in 2nd gear and I shifted down to 1st to make a quick stop, and once stopped the idle speed dropped about 200RPM's. When I went to take off, it stalled, and would not start and run for about 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am taking it to a shop tomorrow for something else but what is going on with the idle and throttle response problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12265" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T01:25:25.147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T01:20:42.307" Title="2011 Hyosung GT250R - Stalls and Stutters at Lights" Tags="|motorcycle|stall|hyosung|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T19:56:11.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2015-09-18T01:44:31.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add, be sure 100% that the #1 piston is at TDC.   Pull the spark plug and ensure that the piston is at TDC when the crankshaft mark also indicates TDC.  Most of the time piston #1 will be at TDC when the crank shaft is at TDC, but I once had a vehicle where the harmonic balancer had failed.  The timing mark on the crankshaft had rotated giving a false TDC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is an interference engine you will likely have major damage once you try to start the engine.  You will wish you had pulled the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12266" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T19:41:34.150" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T19:41:34.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28892" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:54:46.563" Score="19" ViewCount="5555" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My car is a 2001 Pontiac Firebird with a V6 (3800 Series II (L36)) and a manual transmission.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all at a stop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is cold, I don't feel too much vibration when sitting in it. (I mostly notice the vibration in the seat.) However, the vibration that I do feel is similar to what I feel when it's hot, just not as powerful/strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's hot, it will get a bit worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's hot and I've driven it for a bit, I will feel considerably more vibration. &lt;strong&gt;Edit: Maybe I had the A/C on? That adds vibration, even if I haven't driven it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that vibration in the seat is usually from mounts, but that mounts will be worse when cold - not when hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I increase my RPM to 1400, my car feels normal. The rough vibration gradually goes away as I increase RPM from idle (idle is ~690rpm when warm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a video of my harmonic balancer, if it helps:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxjNI2u4dNo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxjNI2u4dNo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No check engine light. &#xA;A few DTCs were found with my OBD scanner, but I think they were all related to when I ran the starter with a couple fuses out (I recently replaced my steering rack and steering pump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's likely the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some info from Torque (everything passed) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Test report:&#xA;------------------&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$01&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 14,400&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$02&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 15,999&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$03&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 9,583&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$04&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 19,166&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$05&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 10,240&#xA;Test result value: 1,408&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$06&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 4,480&#xA;Test result value: 1,088&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$07&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Min: 65&#xA;Test result value: 305&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$08&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Min: 55&#xA;Test result value: 300&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$09&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 27,904  Min: 4,096&#xA;Test result value: 10,496&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$0a&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 850&#xA;Test result value: 588&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$41&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 14,400&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$42&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 15,999&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$43&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 9,583&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$44&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 65,535&#xA;Test result value: 19,166&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$45&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 10,240&#xA;Test result value: 3,264&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$46&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 4,800&#xA;Test result value: 1,984&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$47&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Min: 55&#xA;Test result value: 205&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$48&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Min: 55&#xA;Test result value: 204&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$05 CID:$49&#xA;- Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 28,672  Min: 5,120&#xA;Test result value: 13,312&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$35&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 63&#xA;Test result value: 30&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$41&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 279&#xA;Test result value: 54&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$06 CID:$55&#xA;- Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated)&#xA;Max: 64&#xA;Test result value: 31&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$07 CID:$4d&#xA;- Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated)&#xA;Max: 33,873&#xA;Test result value: 30,809&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0a CID:$04&#xA;- Sensor period(calculated)&#xA;Test incomplete or dependant test failed&#xA;--&#xA;TID:$0a CID:$05&#xA;- Sensor period(calculated)&#xA;Max: 220&#xA;Test result value: 68&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0a CID:$07&#xA;- Sensor period(calculated)&#xA;Min: 500&#xA;Test result value: 500&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0a CID:$42&#xA;- Sensor period(calculated)&#xA;Max: 32,868&#xA;Test result value: 32,772&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0a CID:$48&#xA;- Sensor period(calculated)&#xA;Max: 32,878&#xA;Test result value: 32,770&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;TID:$0c CID:$60&#xA;- Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated)&#xA;Max: 34,006&#xA;Test result value: 21,039&#xA;PASS&#xA;----&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to give a few images, but I can't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One image from torque:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGVtW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGVtW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel Trim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7326" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:36:18.853" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:17:13.420" Title="Vibration at idle, much worse after warm" Tags="|pontiac|idle|vibration|firebird|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21179" CreationDate="2015-09-18T04:11:42.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some owner's manuals will recommend using a needle or small pin to dislodge debris that causes clogging or misdirection of flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal for the spray nozzles to get clogged in dusty environments; you shouldn't have to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T04:11:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21179" CreationDate="2015-09-18T05:36:26.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Nozzle is the bottle neck, therefore that is the most likely place for a clog.  Pull the hose from the back of the nozzle and use a needle to clear the blockage and reattach the hose, making sure that no debris are remaining in the hose/nozzle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T05:36:26.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15427" CreationDate="2015-09-18T05:53:46.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the switch that is connected to the clutch pedal.  It is used to ensure the clutch is depressed when starting the vehicle.  It's a great option as it's simple to access and it's low current.  Just put another switch in line with the existing switch.  I'm taking it a step further and adding an RFID reader that enables the switch for a short period of time when the correct code is read.  I'm hoping this will be even more difficult to find and defeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pz06X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pz06X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12268" LastEditorUserId="12268" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T14:24:51.553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:24:51.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21182" CreationDate="2015-09-18T07:39:10.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things happen when you add antifreeze to water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reducing the freezing point&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, this is obvious. While pure water freezes at 0°C, ethylenglycol can put it down to -55°C for a 60:40 (6 parts antifreeze, 4 parts water) mixture. However, it's interesting that the freezing point goes up to -15°C again, if you add more antifreeze:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQm48.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQm48.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for the german. x-axis: fraction of antifreeze in %. y-axis: freezing point)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Increasing the boiling point&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was already mentioned in the other answer. The 60:40 mixture increases the boiling point from 100°C to 115°C. This is not so much, but since 90°C is not an uncommon coolant temperature, this gives some extra safety margin. By the way, the cooling system is pressurized when hot, which increases the boiling point a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqiHO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqiHO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry again for the german...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Decreasing the heat capacity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water has one of the highest heat capacities of 4.2K / (J * g), which means you need an energy of 4.2J to increase the temperature of 1g of water by 1K. Antifreeze has only about 2.4K / (J * g) , and when mixing both, you get about 3.4K / (J * g). This means, your engine will heat up to nominal temperature faster but also, the mixture can not carry away as much heat as pure water could. However, this is compensated by the higher boiling point of the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preventing corrosion and more&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, you already got the link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3572/running-with-straight-water-as-coolant-in-the-summer-is-it-fine&quot;&gt;Running with straight water as coolant in the summer. Is it fine?&lt;/a&gt; . Antifreeze contains inhibitors which reduce limescale and corrosion in your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: While distilled water will not cause limescale, it is more aggressive to metal than tap water, and causes more corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is cavitation. At the water pump (and other places in the cooling system) local spots of strong under-pressure can exist in the liquid due to its fast flow. Small bubbles of vapor occur there, and collapse again when they leave the under-pressure  region. When they collapse, they create strong shock waves, which can damage nearby materials. This is what destroys ship's propellers over time and may also damage your pump over time. Antifreeze can reduce the effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long story short:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Reducing the freezing point is the most obvious, but not the only task of antifreeze in your engine. So, use it even when you're in a frostless region.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T07:39:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T09:33:58.747" Score="4" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 aqua G model. The newer versions have the auto side mirror closing/opening option when locking/unlocking the car. How can I install this in my car?&#xA;Do I need a software update or a new mechanical part or both?&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12136" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T16:25:06.183" Title="My aqua/prius c came without a auto side mirror closing/opening option when locking/unlocking the car. How to install that option?" Tags="|toyota|hybrid|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21179" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:40:59.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've personally had success clearing these nozzles using a sewing pin; the type that a seamstress may use to pin a garment together just before it is sewn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not only use the pin to clear the nozzle but you can also use it to adjust the area of the screen that it's point at once it's been cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T12:40:59.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21229" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:47:37.973" Score="3" ViewCount="4013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old car (FIAT Panda, 1993) which has basically no sound insulation. I like to work on the car to improve it, so I thought about sound insulation. I'm not looking to improve sound deadening of the interiors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this time I have almost all the info I need, but I would like to know which material is best suited to proper insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doors: they cannot be &quot;opened&quot; in two, the two sides are welded together, so I will put bitumen bands on the inside, the strips meant for roofs like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bostik.nl/nl_NL/toepassingen-en-producten/zoek-op-segment/bouw/BatuBand/SCNL0206/producten-3/?detail=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bostik.nl/nl_NL/toepassingen-en-producten/zoek-op-segment/bouw/BatuBand/SCNL0206/producten-3/?detail=1&lt;/a&gt; because Dynamat and similar are too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hood and engine compartment: if there are exposed parts of chassis that resonate, bitumen strips, plus (according to ease of application and securing) rock wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trunk: on the bottom below the floor covering, bitumen strips if needed and either rock wool or foamed laminate underlayment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestlaminate.com/vapor-3-in-1-blue-underlayment-100-sq.ft-roll/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bestlaminate.com/vapor-3-in-1-blue-underlayment-100-sq.ft-roll/&lt;/a&gt;). This underlayment is rated to &gt;10 dB attenuation (I suppose for impact noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the vehicle, floor: for sure laminate strips where the chassis resonates, plus either rock wool or foamed laminate underlayment below the soft plastic flooring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My doubts are all about foamed underlayment vs rock wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of each alternative? keeping also in mind that I cannot easily find rock wool thinner than 30-60 mm (not under compression).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the engine compartment rock wool is the only option due to temperature and environment, but below the internal flooring I'm unsure what to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T14:02:41.317" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T15:27:24.767" Title="Sound insulation material for an old car? Foamed underlayment vs rock wool" Tags="|noise|fiat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15427" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:57:43.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are wires from the key block going to the ECU and to the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expose some of those wires, cut them in two points, add proper connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you park, disconnect this &quot;extension&quot; and bring it with you, so that there will be a 30 cm gap and unless he has the connectors and an extension, he won't be able to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A switch can be bypassed, but MISSING wires cannot easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the next day he'll be back with the extension cord, provided he understands what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T12:57:43.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21199" CreationDate="2015-09-18T15:08:56.200" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I developed a leak in the lines of my AC system (verified). The system has been recharged so it is working for the time being, but I do not expect it to last indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am due to buy a new car, so I don't want to put money into a costly repair. So in terms of holding out as long as possible until I make that purchase&amp;hellip; will the AC charge last longer if I only use it when absolutely necessary, or is the pressurized refrigerant (r134a) just leaking out constantly whether I use it nor not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T15:42:03.990" Title="Will using the AC accelerate refrigeration loss due to a leak?" Tags="|ac|r134a|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T15:25:45.467" Score="3" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;My headlights are turning on randomly after I turn the engine off and the keys are out of the ignition.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12272" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:51:10.380" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:51:10.380" Title="98 Toyota 4Runner headlights turning on without truck on" Tags="|toyota|headlight|4runner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21197" CreationDate="2015-09-18T15:42:03.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends entirely where the leak is, and what's leaking. If it's on the high side it's going to leak faster when the AC is used. If it's on the low side it's going to leak slower when the AC is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are just trying to get by, and your getting rid of the vehicle soon you could top it off with the DIY AC charge kits sold at the local parts store with the following caveat &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/6064/85&quot;&gt;DIY AC Recharging is not recommended&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T15:42:03.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19271" CreationDate="2015-09-18T15:57:45.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually ended up being a pin inside the Steering Column Flange (the assembly that the lock cylinder and ignition switch mount to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing that fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who sees this, the Ford part number is 9L8Z-3511-A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11722" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T15:57:45.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21198" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:16:57.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problems like this tend to be water related. Water gets into a fuse box or wiring harness and the head lights are the symptom. Another possible cause is if the truck has automatic head lights, that is they come on automatically when it gets dark. A malfunction in that system can also cause the head lights to come on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T16:16:57.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21192" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:25:06.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on whether your year of car supported the option or not. If it never had the option then you might as well buy the newer model. This is because retrofitting an option such as this would be extremely expensive, requiring wiring and computers and all kinds of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your year car had the option and just your trim line didn't offer it then it may be possible, but still not guaranteed. The best case scenario, Toyota offers a set of mirrors with the necessary motors and the wiring is already there. Worst case scenario, the cars are too diffident between the trim lines of the same year and then see above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet call the parts department of your local Toyota dealer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T16:25:06.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21215" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:31:41.903" Score="6" ViewCount="39049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently fully rebuilt my engine, minus the block and pistons.  All the gaskets were replaced, valves lapped, valve lashes tuned etc.  I did it because I had an overheating problem and a head gasket failure. I performed straightedge and feeler gauge tests to make sure the previous overheating and head gasket failure did not cause cylinder head warpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put the coolant back, I used one of these no-spill funnels to make sure the system is fully burped by running the engine with the funnel on, which would compensate with coolant any bubbles that get burped out.  I really believe I squeezed every single little bubble out, also because I turned the heat on to make sure the heater core gets its flow.  &lt;em&gt;I also filled the overflow tank up to about half where the FULL notch is.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I noticed when I first drove it more than a few miles is that there was a splatter of coolant around the overflow tank, when I lifted the hood.  I though the whole rebuild was in vain and overheating was back even though the truck did not overheat at the time (but I though the splatter was an indication it was going to). However, then I drove it another 3 hours in both the city and highway and there was no more splatter or overheating. In fact, the cooling worked so well that even after 3 hours the rad cap was not too hot to be taken off and the coolant level was proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of why there was initial splatter still remained.  Here is how I attempted to rationalize it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under normal &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion&quot;&gt;thermal expansion&lt;/a&gt;, the coolant, which was cold when filled 100% into the tank, spilled over into the overflow tank.  But the overflow tank also had coolant in it, which I put in when I refilled the system, so there wasn't enough room left to absorb the expanded part and it splattered out the excess via the excess valve.  Once the amount of coolant in both the system proper and the overflow self-regulated by splattering the excess, there was no more splattering as there was now room to absorb thermal expansion overflow in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUESTIONS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the above a tenable explanation?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should you put no coolant in the overflow tank when refilling the system with cold coolant to leave enough room for thermal expansion ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In general, under healthy engine circumstances, how much coolant should be getting exchanged between the cooling system proper and the overflow tank?  Is it to be expected that the overflow tank fills with thermal expansion overflow when the engine is hot (not overheated) and then that gets sucked dry (or evaporated) back into the radiator when the engine cools down?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am also an avid plumbing DIY-er.  In case that you are too or at least familiar enough, does the coolant overflow tank in a vehicle perform the same function an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_tank&quot;&gt;expansion tank&lt;/a&gt; does for water heating systems, which is to absorb the liquid volume that expands under heated conditions?  Since you don't put water in an expansion tank when installing it, by the same token should you not put coolant in your overflow tank?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T17:12:13.220" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T10:55:23.763" Title="Should overflow tank be filled when replacing coolant?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21219" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:12:25.693" Score="5" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of talk about &quot;swirl flaps&quot; recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do they do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they only found on petrol or diesel cars, or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard they can be ingested by the engine (especially on Opel 1.9 CDTI engines). How does this happen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How else do they fail? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T22:10:29.380" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T23:03:59.407" Title="What are swirl flaps?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:20:05.480" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota AE101 DX Corolla. When I turn the key to start the car it does not tumble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the fan relay doesn't come on with the key turned on like it usually does. Mind you this relay was tested to be in good health. &#xA;After jumpering the contacts of the fan relay port to turn on the fan, the car was able to tumble and start successfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that there is a safety, that the fan has to turn on to be able to switch on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do i diagnose and repair the electrical connection between the ignition side and the fan relay ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12274" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T19:44:15.263" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T19:44:15.263" Title="Defective connection between radiator fan relay and ignition?" Tags="|toyota|ignition|corolla|fan|relay|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21213" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:40:29.143" Score="2" ViewCount="831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace some ball joints, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to get greasable ball joints or if I should get the cheaper sealed ball joints.  The difference in price is only about $15, but I'm curious what the differences would be in required maintenance and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do greasable ball joints tend to last longer than sealed ones if they're regularly greased?  Is it worth getting the greasable ones and spending some time greasing them every few thousand miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at replacing them on a 2001 Honda Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T19:57:20.783" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:02:31.740" Title="Do greasable ball joints tend to last longer than sealed ones if they're regularly greased?" Tags="|honda|civic|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:57:38.763" Score="6" ViewCount="8075" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I have fully rebuild the cylinder heads (all engine gaskets + valve lapping + lash tuning) on my 2007 Tacoma with 124K mi, I am curious how much life I added to the vehicle, approximately.  I know that there are other vehicle components, such as the drive train and transmission but cars typically go to the junkyard because the engine fails as it is the most complicated entity and most sensitive to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T19:45:08.610" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T03:07:24.780" Title="How much vehicle life is added by rebuilding cylinder heads?" Tags="|engine|toyota|tacoma|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28068" CreationDate="2015-09-18T18:05:53.380" Score="7" ViewCount="3283" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother's '85 Toyota Camry with ~190k miles started making a funny rattling sound and lost about a quarter of its power.  The rattling seems to come into play when it's under load, like when he's going up a hill or trying to accelerate strongly. It sounds like it's coming from the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it could be a bearing but that wouldn't explain the power loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of problems could cause these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4719" LastEditorUserId="4719" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T21:46:52.223" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T21:46:52.223" Title="Rattling sound and loss of power" Tags="|toyota|power|rattle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2015-09-18T18:17:13.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After checking the wiring harnesses, I found that one of the mirrors had a wire that the insulation had ripped and was pushing to ground.  This, as Paulster2 mentioned in the comment to my question, was causing the weird behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T18:17:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21075" CreationDate="2015-09-18T18:26:00.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, this isn't possible. The EEC-IV has a stored code memory that keeps track of engine problems while it is running but requires you to turn on the diagnostic mode to get those codes. There is also a Key-Off-Engine-Running diagnostic mode that requires you to perform some specific steps while the car is parked and warmed up to diagnose problems that only manifest themselves while running. However, I don't believe there is an interactive read mode such as that provided by ODB-II systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T18:26:00.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21207" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:56:31.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically, you haven't added &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; extra life to the vehicle itself. The vehicle is a combination of it's sub-parts (ie: engine, transmission, differential, etc.). Any part at any time can fail for whatever reason. Even the engine is made up of sub-parts to create it's whole. You have definitely given the &lt;em&gt;heads&lt;/em&gt; longer life, but you still have the rest of the engine. If an engine will last 250k miles, that's how long it's going to last. The only way to increase the longevity of the engine (beyond proper maintenance) is to &lt;em&gt;rebuild the entire thing&lt;/em&gt;. That means bearings, rings, and whatever else may be worn out. Gaskets/seals are a given replacement item when doing this work because in order to &lt;em&gt;get to the larger parts&lt;/em&gt;, you will have to put new gaskets/seals (in most cases) in place or you've completely wasted your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With proper maintenance, Toyota's are known for lasting a long time. As long as you have good oil pressure, you probably have another 200k you could expect out of your engine. This is, of course, as long as the engine never overheats or some other unforeseen issue doesn't arise. That is my &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scientific_Wild-Ass_Guess#Use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SWAG&lt;/a&gt;, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T19:56:31.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21206" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:02:31.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;New grease will increase the longevity of the ball joint. With that said, unless a ball joint takes a huge hit or the boot rips, the second set of ball joints will probably last for the rest of the life of the vehicle whether the ball joints have grease zerks or not. IOW, take your pick at this point as it probably won't make too much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:02:31.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21216" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:15:23.353" Score="4" ViewCount="5869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my car to a mechanic and asked for synthetic oil change. However, now I have realized that mechanic has put a new sticker in my windshield that states that next oil change is due in 3000 miles. With synthetic oil range should have been 6000 miles. I called mechanic and asked if it is really synthetic and he confidently claimed that it is a simply a mistake in the sticker and I should drive 6000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a method that I can use to independently verify if my mechanic really used synthetic oil and not organic oil?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for &lt;code&gt;Chevrolet Aveo 2007&lt;/code&gt; and the sticker says &lt;code&gt;5w30&lt;/code&gt; oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T16:08:41.663" Title="A way to tell if mechanic used synthetic or organic oil?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21203" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:19:53.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the above a tenable explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. While some thermal expansion happens in a cooling system, the amount which happens can be absorbed by the rubber hoses present in the system, unless the system overheats. When overheating occurs, steam is created, which causes pressure spikes, which causes more over heating, which causes more steam, etc. When a cooling system is behaving properly, it works together in harmony. The temperature is kept below the boiling point, while the pressured cap allows the boiling point to be raised. As the coolant flows through the radiator, excess heat is bled off which allows the boiling point to not be reached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should you put no coolant in the overflow tank when refilling the system with cold coolant to leave enough room for thermal expansion ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should fill the radiator up all of the way and fill the expansion (overflow) tank to the cold mark when first filling your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, under healthy engine circumstances, how much coolant should be getting exchanged between the cooling system proper and the overflow tank? Is it to be expected that the overflow tank fills with thermal expansion overflow when the engine is hot (not overheated) and then that gets sucked dry (or evaporated) back into the radiator when the engine cools down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you should not expect thermal expansion. If the system is properly bled, you should have very little air in the system. This little bit of air may pass out to the expansion tank when the system is fully up to temperature, but this isn't a given. When the system cools down you'll see the system draw coolant back into itself from the over flow if it needs to. After it cycles the first couple of times, you may need to fill your overflow up a little to make up the difference. If there is a large amount of difference, you probably didn't bleed your system correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am also an avid plumbing DIY-er. In case that you are too or at least familiar enough, does the coolant overflow tank in a vehicle perform the same function an expansion tank does for water heating systems, which is to absorb the liquid volume that expands under heated conditions? Since you don't put water in an expansion tank when installing it, by the same token should you not put coolant in your overflow tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely different function. From my understanding of an expansion tank in a heating system or even in the hot water system of a house, it is primarily there to absorb sharp spikes in pressure which causes noise throughout the system. The overflow tank in the cooling system is to catch excess and provide for as I've described above. Fill the tank to the cold line and you should be golden. Recheck several times after first start to ensure there is enough to cover any contingencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:19:53.710" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21214" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:28:10.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - There is no easy way to tell, as far as I know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in the engine, oil is going to look like oil. Just like you cannot tell horsepower by the seat of your pants, you are not going to be able to tell what weight an oil is or what it's made of by feeling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could send the oil off to a lab to be tested, but then I don't even know if it would tell you the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, you have to trust the mechanic has done what you've paid them to do. That, in and of itself, is a crap shoot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:28:10.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4887" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:36:55.820" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;both camber and toe can be adjusted using specialty products EZ SHIM JUST USED ONE ON A13 SENTRA CK IT OUT ON U-TUBE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12277" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:36:55.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21224" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:44:42.200" Score="7" ViewCount="23562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently a car rear ended me at about 10 mph. Cosmetic damage to my rear bumper is not that bad and because of that I am considering to let the other person get away without making claims to his insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after a visit to body-shop the mechanic stated that something behind the bumper could be damaged as well. I assume he might have meant bumper reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Besides bumper reinforcement are there any other non-visible parts that typically could be damaged from a 10 mph crash?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If bumper reinforcement is bent, how critical is it to fix it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I attached a picture of rear bumper as a reference. Feel free to assess possibility of hidden damage if you have some experience from similar accidents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;code&gt;BMW X3 2008&lt;/code&gt; and it does not seem to have the white Polystyrene foam between the plastic bumper and the metallic bumper reinforcement (I did not take off the bumper but just put my hand there.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5dDK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5dDK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Do5bJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Do5bJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T22:15:43.180" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T23:35:24.447" Title="Should I be worried about bumper reinforcement condition after being rear ended?" Tags="|repair|body-work|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21204" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:03:59.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are used to improve engine combustion performance at low RPM. They partially obstruct the air path through the intake manifold this causes the air to move with a higher velocity through the opening that is left. This higher velocity allows for better mixing/swirl of the fuel and air allowing for better combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be found on both diesel or gas engines and only really if the manufacturer deems it needed. Generally the pop up so solve some type of emissions issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure modes include anything that you can think of. Stuck open, stuck closed, broken off... For other then a know manufacturing defect there is no specific reason for them to fail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T23:03:59.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T02:45:21.147" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old but low mileage Mercedes and This problem puzzles me. The car stalls after a short time(30 seconds to 1 minute) after start up and the battery warning light on the dash lights up. I have changed to a new 800cca battery, and did not solve the problem. I then went to change the alternator and serpentine belt and belt tensioner, and problem still exists! It seems the exterior bulb warning light is also on. Since I have changed everything, what else could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T13:09:14.187" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T13:09:14.187" Title="Merdeces stalls after 30sec-1min, and battery warning light is on" Tags="|engine|electrical|mercedes-benz|stall|300se|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-10-05T15:57:16.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T06:07:31.453" Score="3" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my vehicle headlights. Now I'm using a 35W 8000k projector for my bike. This is not having much light output as I wish. I'm really interested to see powerful light  output from my ride like the light output comes from cars. Not much of that but at least good lighting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use 55w/60w bixenon projector instead of my 35w one? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What all should I do to upgrade? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this upgrade possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12282" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T12:04:14.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:45:59.143" Title="Requirements to use 55W Bi-xenon 6000k projector on yamaha r15 v 2.0" Tags="|motorcycle|headlight|yamaha|hid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T10:59:26.433" Score="5" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I drive an old Toyota Avensis that was produced in 2000. Its engine is Toyota's 3S-FE. Let me spare you my theories and tell you what symptoms arise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the engine is cold, it can &lt;em&gt;barely&lt;/em&gt; rev beyond 2,000 RPM, and there is noticeable shaking of the exhaust pipe. The shaking stops when the engine gets to operational temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the engine has heated up, it can rev up to 2,900 RPM, then starts getting very unstable -- it speeds up to a certain point, and it seems to &quot;hit the ceiling&quot; and revs down, this effect is exacerbated with increased throttle position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opening the throttle completely starts this violent revulsion and then quite quickly, the ignition seems to turn off and it just stops dead. Restarting is no problem. This happens with and without load -- the ignition will turn off on the highway, and you have to put the clutch pedal down so the engine stops, only then can it be restarted!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is very weak, going up hills and such you can &quot;feel it struggling&quot; like anybody who drives stick does, you start getting the feeling that you need to downshift because the engine's power output isn't great enough. Accelerating on highways is dangerously slow because of this, both because you can only drive in the 1,000-2,000 RPM range which has quite poor torque, and because if you accelerate hard, you will get this same &quot;hitting the ceiling&quot; effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't always like this, this happened on a long trip through Europe (and a fair amount of time on the autobahn) -- it started out with the engine misfiring in the range 3,600-4,000 RPM (but not above!) Needless to say, we kept this misfiring to a minimum so as to avoid permanent engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loud rattling noise from the generator in the range of 3,400-4,000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a bolt loose on the engine. We're unsure what it does. See picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePMgd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePMgd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Missing bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs have since been changed, along with their wiring, and I don't know how well it runs now. The spark plugs were previously &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust pipe clogged somewhere. Engine unable to expel exhaust at the correct rate beyond a certain RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Broken oxygen sensor/vacuum line leak/faulty MAF sensor. This would lead to a lean fuel mixture and explain the misfiring. Also vacuum line leaks could cause poor engine pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty spark plugs, or faulty timing belt. Could cause misfiring if the fuel isn't ignited properly or at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty fuel pump. Could explain why the engine felt weak to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastEditorUserId="12284" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T12:09:22.270" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:50:22.560" Title="Toyota Avensis '99 - engine performance problem" Tags="|engine|toyota|avensis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21218" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:26:12.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the part you need to worry about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4KFt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4KFt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the rear bumper support and can be found under the bumper cover. As far as how imperative it is to fix, it all depends on the amount of damage which was done. You really need to take the bumper cover off to get a good look at the damage to this piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably get away with not replacing this right now, but need to realize what ever damage has been done to it, if another person were to rear-end you, the protection of the piece will be much reduced. It all depends on the damage which was done to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece does not appear to have hydraulic absorbers associated with it, so it took the brunt of the 10mph hit. While 10mph does not seem like a lot, bumpers are only required to take a 5mph hit without damage to the vehicle. You can almost be assured the 10mph hit has done &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; kind of damage. A second hit at 10mph could damage a lot more than this piece if this piece were to fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear-enders don't happen everyday to a vehicle. You could possibly go the rest of the life of the car without getting hit again. Realistically it's a crap shoot. Something you'll need to decide for yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the little tweak in the second picture, a person would be hard pressed to tell if it was there before or something new because of the rear-ender. There shouldn't be any worry about it as far as safety, though. If it's covered by body panels or the bumper cover, there's nothing to worry about cosmetically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T13:26:12.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21227" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:25:34.997" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo (2002) uses CANBus to monitor various lamps (I assume its current that's monitored). I intend to splice into one of the headlamps and one of the sidelamps and use those live feeds to dim (sidelights) and then turn off (headlights) the DRLs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would going via a 1k resistor to the transistor's base cause any problem with the monitoring? I'm kind of assuming it would be quite a high impedance(?) so not be 'noticed'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12833" OwnerDisplayName="YorkshireDave" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T00:25:26.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T00:25:26.680" Title="CanBus - monitoring" Tags="|electrical|volvo|lights|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21226" CreationDate="2015-09-19T01:23:47.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just grabbing the first &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightbulbs4cars.com/product/NOK7411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2002 Volvo Replacement Headlamp&lt;/a&gt; I could find the headlamps run at 12V/65W, meaning it would draw 5.4A of current.  If you hooked up a 1k resistor and ran it straight to ground while the lightbulb was on, that resistor would pull 12mA of current, adding an additional 0.2% load to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the car's perspective, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12288" OwnerDisplayName="Adam" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T01:23:47.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2015-09-20T00:04:53.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just bought a new car that has been treated with ec bond but its not the protection that bought me its that they cover door dents headlight cracks and stuff for 5 years. As well as paint being messed up in anyway it is all repaired for free. Only cost me $350 i think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12289" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T00:04:53.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21194" CreationDate="2015-09-20T00:18:31.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to go with a foam-based product that's specifically designed for acoustic dampening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noise dampening insulation basically comes down to two things: absorbing or blocking the sound, and reducing/eliminating the movement of parts which leads to vibration and rattling noises.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foam products can help with both functions. There are a variety of brands available specifically designed for use in cars, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cascadeaudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cascade Audio&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.secondskinaudio.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Second Skin Audio&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raamaudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RAAMaudio&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side is many of these products are fairly expensive, as they tend to cater to car audio aficionados. However you may be able to research the kinds of products they provide, and then find similar but less expensive materials from a company that sells generic foam padding or insulation, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.laminaat.nl/isogold.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isogold foam&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral wool products are commonly used in soundproofing homes, because of their low cost and ease of installation as flat sheets behind walls, but in a car, you are going to have to deal with unusual shapes and curved surfaces, and cutting and forming mineral wool to conform to the required shapes will be more difficult. You'll also risk &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurima.org/about-mineral-wool/health-safety.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skin and eye irritation&lt;/a&gt;, so if you do use them, be sure you wear gloves, eye protection, and a long-sleeved shirt. Also, if you do get get mineral wool dust on your skin, don't scrub it off, as that will increase the irritation. Rinse it with running water instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A difference between home and car sound insulation is that more of the noise in a car comes from vibration and rattling, and foam products will be more effective at damping those vibrations than mineral wool products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="7225" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T15:27:24.767" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T15:27:24.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T02:33:19.170" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 99 Jetta is very hard to get into 1st gear. 2 out of 3 times you will hit 3rd gear. She often has to start off from 2nd gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to adjust the linkage or something to allow more room between 1st and third gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12206" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T12:06:08.803" Title="99 Jetta transmission trouble" Tags="|transmission|gears|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2015-09-20T03:05:38.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a properly maintained fully functional manual transmission equipped automobile, I prefer to be in neutral with my foot not on the clutch pedal. The reasoning is that if I happen to be rear ended or something, there is no way for me to accidentally take my foot off of the clutch and roll out further into cross traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T03:05:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T03:26:40.507" Score="1" ViewCount="5412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a 2015 Honda Civic and then noticed that the coolant temperature gauge is not in the instrument panel. There are only two instrument cluster panel idiot lights dedicated to coolant over or under temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12290" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T21:23:35.980" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T21:23:35.980" Title="Is there a way to guage when a 2015 Honda Civic reaches its normal coolant operating temperature?" Tags="|honda|civic|coolant|gauges|instrument-cluster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T04:18:12.937" Score="2" ViewCount="15095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that A means driver side and B means passenger side. But I saw a product online that said 20OE. What is the OE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I'm looking for replacement wiper blades for a '99 Volkswagen Beetle Bug. Looking online, they say to use 21 inch wiper blades. However, when I went on Amazon and selected a certain product (Bosch), Amazon suggested it didn't fit my car. When I used their search page, I saw a bunch of 21 inch blades, and Bosch's was marked 20OE. What's that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T18:37:32.417" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T00:27:32.490" Title="What is a 20OE Wiper Blade?" Tags="|vw|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T10:45:36.277" Score="4" ViewCount="5454" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bikes,  major part plays by 4 stroke petrol engine, then why did they named as motor bike or cycle instead of engine bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12193" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T19:11:49.320" Title="Why do they called motor bike instead of engine bike?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21233" CreationDate="2015-09-20T11:28:34.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;A&quot; is for the driver side and for some vehicles the passenger side.&#xA;&quot;B&quot; is for vehicles that require a different wiper on the passenger side.&#xA;&quot;OE&quot; means Original Equipment Fitment, and has to do with the type of arm connectors the blade has.  The OE blades are not side specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T11:28:34.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T11:48:28.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=motorcycle&amp;amp;allowed_in_frame=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Etymology.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;motorcycle (n.) Look up motorcycle at Dictionary.com&#xA;  1895, a hybrid from motor + -cycle, from bicycle. Motocycle also was used late 19c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The horse follows the crooks of a country road, but then the training of the &quot;motorcycle&quot; (horrid name) will inevitably straighten out the crooks in the country road, and afford long ranges of straight tracks. [Payson Burleigh, &quot;The Age of Steel,&quot; Oct. 12, 1895]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives the story of how the name came about: the hybrid addition of motor to cycle. I don't believe that is your real issues though, correct? You are wondering why the use of the word &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; as opposed to using &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this comes from the belief that the words &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (for the most part) interchangeable. Motor &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; refer to an &lt;em&gt;electric motor&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; must refer to an &lt;em&gt;internal combustion engine&lt;/em&gt;. This very much so is a fallacy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/motor?s=t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dictionary.com&lt;/a&gt; has as it's first and second entries for &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;a comparatively small and powerful engine, &lt;strong&gt;especially an internal-combustion engine&lt;/strong&gt; in an automobile, motorboat, or the like. [&lt;em&gt;emphasis mine&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;any self-powered vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automobile can be called a &lt;em&gt;motor vehicle&lt;/em&gt;. It isn't named an &lt;em&gt;engine vehicle&lt;/em&gt;. The truth is, the words motor and engine &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; fairly much interchangeable in the English vernacular of today. It's just one of those quirks which has slated the name for the &lt;em&gt;motorcycle&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T11:48:28.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2015-09-20T12:06:08.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Q9BPtBNqcCU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; which describes your issue and what you need to do to temporarily fix this issue. The video is for a 98 TDi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/020shifter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; which describes the issue for a Mk3 with a 2.0L engine. This describes how to actually fix the issue. The shifter linkage is different in this case than for the 98 TDi, so have included it. If you watch the two videos from the site (before and after), you'll see where the bushing at fault lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately the problem lies in plastic bushings which are worn out. The temporary fix (for the TDi) is basically taking up the slack which is left behind by the bushings being (mostly) worn out. You will at some point need to replace these bushings. The second one gives you a source for the bushings and exactly how to fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T12:06:08.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T12:47:18.863" Score="4" ViewCount="5965" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car Stereo and separate clock keep resetting when car is turned off. &#xA;I bought recently a 2005 Kia Spectra. Car had several previous owners. Stereo is aftermarket pioneer. The stock clock in the car also resets every time car is turned off. I first thought it might be a previous faulty stereo installation but now I realize the dome lights will also turn off when car is turned off (Like right the way) and power locks do not work either when car is turned off. Basically the key has to be switched to acc in order to have anything electric working in the car. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12294" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T14:53:04.077" Title="Car Stereo and separate clock keep resetting when car is turned off" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T13:07:55.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific, historically recent meanings we have are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'motor' - made of wires and magnets and a core, an electric moving-thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'engine' - made of an engine block with pistons and a cam shaft etc, running on liquid fuel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 'motor' has the same root as 'move' from ancient times, before electricity was discovered. For example 'motor cells' in biology aren't electrical, but they are cells like muscle cells that have the ability to move the parts of a biological organism.  And 'fine motor control' can refer to the human ability to drop pins into tiny holes rapidly on an assembly line, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that older sense of 'motor' was being applied when the term 'motor-cycle' was invented.  I think that is the basic reason although I'm sure some real etymologists out there could improve my answer significantly. Also if you look for 'motor etymology' or 'engine etymology' on a search engine I am sure you will find a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12295" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T13:07:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T13:43:58.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;An internal combustion engine is a motor in the literal sense&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;rotor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is an object that undergoes &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;rotation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; via an external energy source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of rotors include brake discs and the vanes in a turbocharger&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;stator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is an object that remains fixed in its relative position (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;station&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;-ary) that often complements a rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In car applications, the stationary part of a torque converter is a good example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; enables &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;motion&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of other components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, electrical motors are used to rotate the vanes in most residential water pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, an engine provides motive force to turn the wheels of a vehicle. From this perspective, an engine is an example of a motor; it enables motion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T13:49:46.327" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T13:49:46.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21287" CreationDate="2015-09-20T14:09:59.103" Score="7" ViewCount="153726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the rear brake pads on my BMW last week, following the steps outlined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hGdCv3Xs0Tw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the brake pedal now feels spongy. The pedal feel was firm prior to the brake swap, so it is definitely a sudden change and not a gradual degradation of brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I forgot to do was undo the brake fluid reservoir cap before pushing the piston calipers back with a C-clamp, so I suspect that the the sponginess is due to trapped air in the system since the reservoir was never exposed to outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it possible that the extra pressurization of the system via the C-clamp resulted in moisture absorption? The only issue I see with this reasoning is that the system was never exposed to outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T03:29:54.027" Title="Spongy brakes after brake pad swap - moisture or bubbles?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21244" CreationDate="2015-09-20T14:16:56.207" Score="4" ViewCount="11776" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/21242/675&quot;&gt;I've got spongy brake feel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation has me wondering if it is at all possible to tell that brake fluid needs changing just by looking at the fluid in the reservoir, similar to how you can tell if you need an engine oil change if the oil is black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does moisture ingression affect the appearance of brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T08:31:30.510" Title="Is it possible to tell if brake fluid needs to be flushed just by looking at it?" Tags="|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21243" CreationDate="2015-09-20T14:25:55.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. When brand new, brake fluid looks clear. Once there is a significant amount of water absorbed, it will turn an amber color. This applies to regular brake fluid (DOT 3, 4, &amp;amp; 5.1) and not synthetic. Here is an image of new and old brake fluid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnfs3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnfs3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can tell, it gets darker as it gets older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T14:25:55.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T15:51:34.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll find that &quot;engine&quot; isn't used to modify another noun except self-referentially.  It can be used self-referentially, as in &quot;engine speed&quot; (where the idea could be phrased &quot;speed of the engine&quot;), but not otherwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Engine [bi]cycle&quot; can't be rephrased as &quot;[bi]cycle of the engine&quot;, so it would sound odd to hear, or read, &quot;enginecycle&quot;.  Someone hearing/reading that would think it meant &quot;operating cycle (e.g. 2-stroke, 4-stroke) of the engine&quot;, so it would take awhile to sort out the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12297" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T15:51:34.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T15:54:01.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the world uses the word &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; for what &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; is in current English (although note that &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; also has different meanings, for instance, &lt;em&gt;locomotive)&lt;/em&gt;. This means that although &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; is what you normally use to describe what's under your hood or bonnet, compound words that entered English as already combined notions (like &lt;em&gt;motorcycle)&lt;/em&gt; usually arrived with the more international root &lt;em&gt;motor-.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this doesn't only apply to these coumpound words. English has a great deal of its own words that start with it: &lt;em&gt;motorway&lt;/em&gt; (the British version of highway), &lt;em&gt;motorhome, motor trade, motor sports&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;motor vehicle&lt;/em&gt; (see the title of the site we're currently on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, simply accept that, even though &lt;em&gt;engine&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;motor&lt;/em&gt; are somewhat separated in meaning and usage in today's English (not to mention the differences between, say, American and British usage), they have basically and fundamentally the same meaning: a device to transform some other form of energy into mechanical energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12296" LastEditorUserId="12296" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T17:31:50.867" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T17:31:50.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:44:33.340" Score="2" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Civic 2007 won't start after installing a new engine because the first engine block bust out because water mixed with the oil. So I got a new engine. After they installed the engine, at the dash board at first the oil and battery light, brain box light didn't come up. An electrician checked the fuses and they all came up but the car won't start. Instead it is flashing the green key light. I have been using this same key for it and the key still locks the car and unlock the car and still working properly. An electrician has tested the fuse and said the car is not reading the key and needs to be reprogrammed. I still have this feeling the engine was not wired well or maybe they didn't fix some wire properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12298" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T18:17:40.440" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T18:39:05.130" Title="my honda civic 2007 won't start" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21222" CreationDate="2015-09-20T18:02:38.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly &lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt; you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But beware you will definitely reduce the life of your battery since it will be difficult for it to handle Bi xenon low at 60w.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade your battery(Possibly higher AMP rating) also make sure while initial installation all the wiring is properly done since a short circuit on a 60w projector will burn through your reflector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T18:02:38.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21247" CreationDate="2015-09-20T18:39:05.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the problem is your immobilizer is no longer reading the chip in your key. This seems like a usual occurrence with Hondas when the green key light is flashing in a no start scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The immobilizer ring goes around where the key inserts into the steering column. It should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ASny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ASny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where it's at when installed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwhD9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwhD9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually the part with the Roman numerals on it (or at least they are: I, II, &amp;amp; III ... whether Roman or not ;-) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the part number you are looking for is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=39730-SNA-A02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;39730-SNA-A02&lt;/a&gt;. It is my understanding it can purchased from most major parts stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UO5kEURbkJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which explains how to remove/replace one out of an Odessey. The basic procedure should be about the same for your Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T18:39:05.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2015-09-20T18:58:10.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/engine&lt;/a&gt; &quot;engine&quot; can only be a noun. The adjective is &quot;engined,&quot; (as in &quot;a twin-engined aircraft&quot;) but nobody uses the term &quot;an engined bike&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand &quot;motor&quot; can be an adjective as well as a noun: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/motor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/motor&lt;/a&gt;. Hence &quot;motor bike&quot;. The longer adjective &quot;motorized&quot; is used to describe some devices, but not bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Languages are not logical. English is just what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;engine&quot; has the same root as &quot;ingenious&quot;. Historically it meant &quot;ingenious machines&quot; which were not &quot;engines&quot; in the modern sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastEditorUserId="11923" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T19:11:49.320" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T19:11:49.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T19:08:58.770" Score="2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured this would be a better way to ask &quot;what's the best oil filter?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when choosing an oil filter for my daily driver? I put about 15k miles on it per year (lots of weekend trips to see family).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T02:09:48.923" Title="What makes a good oil filter good?" Tags="|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21243" CreationDate="2015-09-21T00:20:14.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most automotive chemicals, there are corrosion inhibitors in brake fluid. These inhibitors wear out over time. The state of these inhibitors can be measured with test strip. The strip measures copper levels. Copper levels in the brake fluid are an indicator that the fluid’s corrosion inhibitors are depleted.&#xA; Copper levels can predict when  corrosion is occurring. The cut off of acceptable copper levels is 200ppm. Copper can plate to ABS and other valves causing inconsistent  ABS operation. The source of the copper is the steel brake lines according to Phoenix Systems a test strip supplier. I assume stainless steel lines would not be subject to corrosion. The calipers, master cylinder and any other conventional steel parts would still be subject to some corrosion but there is no mention of them releasing copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T00:20:14.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21251" CreationDate="2015-09-21T02:09:48.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oil filter can be classified as good or best by the amount of contaminents it can filter before needing a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good oil filters often have a high degree of filtration capabilities compared to normal ones but the price difference you pay is usually not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/637158-official-oil-filter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread there are some key factors at work here that&#xA;  need to be considered such as media type, contaminant capacity,&#xA;  filtration efficiency, surface area, filter construction and by-pass&#xA;  valve spring rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contaminants(size) are measured in the unit microns(mu) so a filter with higher micron level is generally better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A filter is considered &lt;strong&gt;nominally&lt;/strong&gt; efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20μm or larger is nominally efficient at 20μm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A filter is considered to achieve &lt;strong&gt;absolute&lt;/strong&gt; filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20μm or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to consider while buying Oil filters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters with low capacity and high efficiency will tend to accumulate&#xA;contaminants quickly and trip the by-pass value which means it's no&#xA;longer doing you any good. These filters should generally be changed&#xA;every 5,000 miles for sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters with high capacity and low efficiency can hold a lot of&#xA;contaminants, but will definitely not protect your motor to the same&#xA;degree, as more particulates will be circulating through the motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters that are both low in capacity and efficiency will cause&#xA;increased wear and shorter motor longevity if used for a prolonged&#xA;period.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Go through that thread its beyond useful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T02:09:48.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T07:27:00.337" Score="6" ViewCount="31732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L with an automatic transmission.  While I'm used to driving manuals, I would say that the amount of vibration when sitting stopped in drive with the brake on seems excessive.  The excess vibration goes away when put in neutral. I also noticed that when first taking off or in certain types of acceleration it feels mushy, like there is a lack of power until suddenly I get a solid feeling.  All this is in addition to a rough but stable idle when in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tranny fluid is pretty old and dark ( it hasn't been changed for five years and about 80,000 kilometers ), however it's not dirty - there is no grime or particles in the fluid and there is no burnt smell ( I asked more than one person to smell it ).  Also, the gears engage immediately without hesitation when I shift it into drive or reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to this I don't think it's the clutches.  While I have little exp. with automatics, my gut feeling is that the torque converter maybe isn't working as efficiently as it should and isn't locking as soon as it should.  I think when it finally feels solid and powerful that is the torque converter locking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm correct about the nature of the problem, could changing the old fluid out and adding something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://transmissionrepairguy.com/lucas-transmission-fix-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lucas transmission fix&lt;/a&gt; improve the situation?  Or do those types of products only help with worn clutches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that won't help, how big of a job is it to change a torque converter and is it an expensive part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider, could this just be a symptom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21028/engine-shakes-wobble-momentarily-at-wot&quot;&gt;problems with the engine idle&lt;/a&gt;?  When in park and I press hard on the gas the engine seems to wobble / shake and if I go to WOT it's very noticeable and I'll even hear a belt slip for a moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 5/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so after putting in a new Lambda, valve cover gasket and plugs, things are much better, however I still feel like there is excess vibration and I think there might be more than one cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is worst when I first start the car, and gets progressively better as everything warms up.  When everything is cold, and I switch into D, the vibrations are very pronounced.  Once both the engine and tranny are warmed up the vibes are much less noticeable.  The thing is that once warm and I switch into drive there is a momentary drop in rpm from about 700 to 500, during which there's allot of vibrations, then once the rpm recovers the vibes kind of smooths out, but don't go away completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some thing that might be relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is no noise accompanying these vibrations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the vibrations go away the moment the car starts moving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can downshift while driving and hit the gas and it responds immediately &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generally the tranny seems to be performing pretty well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I noticed that the engine itself seems to be vibrating more than I would expect at idle &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one of the engine mounts looks pretty beat up ( I'll put up a pic later )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ATF is dark and heavily oxidized, but still clean &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sooooo, I'm thinking maybe changing the ATF and fixing the motor mount might solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 6/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's that pic of the engine mount.  I figure being able to stick my finger through it is a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoHvG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoHvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00HJB85G4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a new one is supposed to look like&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQUY6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQUY6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 6/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I changed the ATF and that doesn't seem to have made a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T07:07:42.197" Title="Excessive Vibrations in Drive when holding down the brakes" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21272" CreationDate="2015-09-21T07:49:10.813" Score="8" ViewCount="2174" Body="&lt;p&gt;This week-end, I had to disassemble an engine from a Kawasaki versys 650 (early). The bike lost power while making ugly metal sounds. It never started again. RIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: 108.000km, mostly highway usage, maintenance OK, everything right (oil, coolant, tappet clearance...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the cause is an exhaust valve that got cut in half, its head falling in the cylinder, obviously destroying everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can this be the source of the failure? Can a valve simply break apart like this? Otherwise, what could have caused this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other valves unsurprisingly bent, none of them broke.&#xA;The spring was all right, nothing noticeable on this side. One of the other valves had lost one &quot;half clip thing that lock it in the spring&quot;, I don't know how it is called in english (demi-lune in french) but I think it happened during the breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an imgur album with close inspection of the cylinder head:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tl293.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tl293.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can a valve simply break in half without any reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7628" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:24:27.107" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T11:32:57.640" Title="Can a valve suddenly break in half? Versys 650 destroyed engine" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2015-09-21T08:24:10.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valves can fail, but generally the failure is caused by them coming into contact with something solid. They can start to float at high rpm, they can physically touch something while they're moving (i.e. something gets sucked into the intake or the connecting rod fails and the piston makes contact, or the timing can be off and a valve is open when the piston is at TDC). I've not experienced having a valve just fail on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T08:24:10.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21243" CreationDate="2015-09-21T08:31:30.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than rely on looking, you can purchase a brake fluid tester which works on a single AA battery and dips into the fluid.  This will instantly tell you how much water has been absorbed by the fluid and therefore if it's still serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering how vital your vehicles brakes are, I'd suggest that it's worth the investment (they are fairly inexpensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T08:31:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21352" CreationDate="2015-09-21T08:48:38.397" Score="0" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;ECUs are &quot;Electronic Control Units&quot;. I've heard that modern cards have about 30 - 70 ECUs, but I couldn't find good sources for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have (citable) sources for where ECUs in modern cars are, how many there are and for what they are used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12308" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T11:05:29.007" Title="Where are ECUs and for which tasks are they used?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-09-29T14:50:58.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2015-09-21T09:31:05.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with this has been where a valve has overheated and the valve starts sticking in the valve guide.  If the valve sticks too far open, the piston will hit it and bend or snap the valve. One possibly reasons for overheating is due to the valve not sealing completely and hot gasses flowing around it.  Another is that the water level was low in a water cooled engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T09:31:05.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21259" CreationDate="2015-09-21T09:37:06.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cars:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically Automotive Electronics/Controllers are usually bunched together into a single unit with multiple micro controllers , with the only exception being the ABS unit or the Chassis electronics(ABS,EBD,TCS,ESP) which might be placed somewhere near the battery or fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecuflash.co/ecu-locations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link to location of ECUs in most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On motorcycles the ECUs most of the times are placed directly under/inside the seat with the ABS unit again being the exception which is sometimes placed back of the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Every manufacturer and sometimes vehicle has different location for the Automotive Electronics/Controller placement and there is no specific rule for location.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:13:58.520" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21268" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:29:18.593" Score="1" ViewCount="2352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old toyota corolla e 100 sedan. A CNG cylinder is installed in my car because here it is cheaper than octane. I was thinking about setting up a good audio system in my car, which includes a 12 inch or mayb an 18 inch sub woofer. The cng cylinder is installed in the trunk. If I install a sub then it has to be put in the trunk too. So I was wondering would it be a problem for the cylinder? Like when I use really high volume with high bass bits? Will the sub woofer vibration cause any risk for the cylinder? TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T15:37:00.920" Title="can big sub woofer be a problem for car cng cylinder" Tags="|audio|cng|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:54:49.017" Score="3" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my 2012 Golf TDI Bluemotion. The DPF and turbo need to be replaced. The replacement costs about R65 000 SA Rands. Is this common with this TDI blue motion engines or it's my driving? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how can a turbo and DPF fail at same time, are they interlinked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12311" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:33:56.233" Title="DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) and Turbo: Golf TDI Bluemotion(hybrid)" Tags="|vw|diesel|turbocharger|catalytic-converter|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21264" CreationDate="2015-09-21T12:33:27.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DPF is basically a catalytic converter for a diesel engine. I wouldn't say it's necessary that both of these things fail at the same time, but it's possible. I will assume you do lots of short trips rather than regular long trips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, the DPF needs to periodically heat up and stay hot for a long period to burn off excess deposits. A nice long road trip would be a good way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a fellow South African, the first thing I would suggest is taking the car to an RMI-approved workshop that is NOT a VW dealership. (Most) Agents have a reputation for overcharging and even recommending repairs that are unnecessary. &lt;em&gt;(compare a R45 000 repair quote vs R17 000 from an independent using the same OEM replacement parts)&lt;/em&gt;. Have your car inspected by a third party and see what they say. On that note, a DPF really shouldn't fail after only 3 years. You see this more often in cars that are older than 7 years or so. The car should still be under warranty, so explore that possibility before you sell a kidney.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect the replacement of a turbo + DPF to cost more than R20 000 &lt;em&gt;max&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:33:27.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21264" CreationDate="2015-09-21T12:33:56.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter is part of the exhaust system the Turbocharger pulls it's power from the exhaust system so it in conceivable that a blocked DPF filter could stall the turbocharger causing damage.  Also, a failed turbocharger could dump lots of oil into the DPF which would be equally damaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a 2012 1.6 TDI Bluemotion Golf and have had no problems with either the Turbo or DPF but I guess that doesn't help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:33:56.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:17:28.383" Score="4" ViewCount="3411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inter-switched my battery wires, positive to negative. Now the car moves but does not accelerate, even with the pedal to the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What damage have I done by reversing the battery terminals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser V8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12313" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T21:52:34.067" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T10:11:40.077" Title="Reversed the battery terminals - What damage have I done?" Tags="|engine|electrical|toyota|land-cruiser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-04-13T20:20:07.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21263" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:28:12.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fuel needs air to burn/explode/ignite&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://channel.nationalgeographic.com/street-genius/videos/more-gas-more-boom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video is ample evidence of that&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acoustic vibration will have no impact on a CNG tank whose integrity isn't compromised (i.e. doesn't leak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the tank leaks gas into its surroundings, there needs to be a spark or naked flame to result in an explosion. Acoustic vibration alone won't be enough to cause ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was even a remote possibility of igniting an air-fuel mixture with acoustic vibrations it would have been explored as an alternative to (comparatively complex) spark-ignition systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is more than one way a CNG tank can go &lt;em&gt;bang&lt;/em&gt;. Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electrical hazards from installing the subwoofer (electrical shorts, heating effect of high current)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mechanical integrity of the tank (leaks, corrosion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat in small enclosures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T15:37:00.920" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T15:37:00.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21270" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:33:25.560" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very newbie driver here.&#xA;The only car that I tried was the car I used in the driving lessons. It was a Golf 2013.&#xA;Today, I tried the first car and it is a Mercedes Benz C200 (it has power steering).&#xA;I noticed that the steering wheel is not as light as the Golf I used in my training lessons. The wheel of the Mercedes is not bad at all, but is a little bit heavier particularly after the second roll of the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that normal, or there is something wrong in the Mercedes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12240" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T07:51:55.383" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T07:51:55.383" Title="Testing a used car: steering is not 100% light" Tags="|power-steering|steering|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21269" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:45:18.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to be describing the &lt;em&gt;weight&lt;/em&gt; of the steering, which varies from vehicle to vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't something to be concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many factors influence the lightness (or heaviness) of steering feel, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steering/chassis geometry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;amount of hydraulic (power-steering) assist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned if you cannot or struggle to turn the wheel with the car stationary, because this indicates that the power-steering system is not helping you when it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T15:45:18.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21273" CreationDate="2015-09-21T16:42:44.903" Score="5" ViewCount="279520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Focus. When i turn the ignition, the engine will not start. The lights and electronics will flicker while i am turning the ignition. I do not hear the engine &quot;turning over&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i can resolve the issue myself with something simple, should i still take it to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1187" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T23:42:25.160" Title="Car won't start, lights and electronics flicker" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:01:06.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it absolutely can happen like this. Many valves are actually created in two pieces (head and stem). They are &quot;welded&quot; together (I use the term &quot;welded&quot; loosely here). They can and do fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a write-up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar1192.htm&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which talks about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Breakage ... can happen to either intake or exhaust valves. Valves break in one of two places, where the head is joined to the stem, or where the keeper groove(s) are machined into the end of the stem. Either way, breakage is bad news because the pieces fall into the combustion chamber and wreak havoc on the piston and head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The breakage can occur due to being over burdened or because of manufacturing defect. As was stated, when it does fail, it does it spectacularly, with the possibility of destroying everything in its path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/articles/understanding_valve_design_and_alloys.pdf&quot;&gt;this article from Engine Builder Magazine&lt;/a&gt; which describes a lot about valves and may be an interesting read to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T17:12:52.843" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T17:12:52.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21271" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:06:52.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually the symptom of a dead battery. Has the car been sitting for a long time without being driven? Or did you leave the headlights or interior lights on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try jump starting it (see owner's manual for instructions) and drive it for a while to charge the battery. (I usually find that 30 minutes or so of driving is sufficient; make sure not to switch off or stall the car during this time.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it keeps happening, your battery may need to be replaced; an auto parts store can test your battery, and if necessary, sell you a new one and help you install it. If the battery is okay, there could be a problem with the alternator or some other piece of the battery charging system; a mechanic can help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T17:06:52.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21281" CreationDate="2015-09-21T19:59:06.137" Score="7" ViewCount="6917" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend, during a camping trip, the starter battery on my 2001 VW Eurovan camper started to show signs of weakness - cranking was much slower than usual and took about 5 attempts to get the engine to start.  At the time, I chalked this up to me leaving a couple of phones charging of the main battery overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this morning, starting was a no-go.  Dash lights came on, and lots of solenoid clicking noises, but not enough juice to turn the engine over at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it occurred to me that this van is also equipped with an auxiliary battery for running a small fridge and some interior lights.  I was in a pinch, so I hooked up my jump start cables from the aux battery to the main battery, and was able to successfully start off that.  For the record, I temporarily removed the isolation relay that normally enables charging of the aux battery when the engine is running, just to be sure not to cause any damage from this unorthodox setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main battery is a regular starter battery (650 CCA, 100 Reserve Capacity).  I couldn't find a manufacture date, but now suspect its at the end of its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, the aux battery is a deep-cycle battery, rated at 60Ah.  I think this one is probably original to the van, though again I couldn't find a manufacture date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe (in a pinch) to do what I did this morning - start the van using the deep-cycle aux battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ask about &quot;safe&quot;, I would like to know about both personal safety, and whether or not damage can be caused to the various parts of the system by using this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This clearly not something I would do on a regular basis, but would like to know if it is an option next time I'm in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T12:03:22.843" Title="Starting using a deep-cycle battery" Tags="|battery|starting|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21278" CreationDate="2015-09-21T20:23:00.137" Score="8" ViewCount="4635" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday there were a ton of ants crawling out of some hole in my backseat. I sprayed the them to death. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, when I try to start the ignition, my engine clicks a lot but won't turn over. I did some research and found that this is a symptom of a battery problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked my oil, transmission fluid, and did an outer visual inspection of the engines. I'm not a car person at all so I don't know what else to do. I don't see any ants anywhere but I find it too coincidental that right after I spray the hordes of ants in my backseat, the car doesn't start the next morning. I'm visualizing a ton of ants crawling around my inner engines..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are next steps I need to take to troubleshoot and repair my car? I have a nissan 1999 maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any help, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12316" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T15:13:44.800" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T22:18:14.517" Title="Car won't start, possibly due to ants in batteries" Tags="|engine|ignition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21280" CreationDate="2015-09-21T20:41:34.723" Score="20" ViewCount="125280" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21275/starting-using-a-deep-cycle-battery&quot;&gt;This morning I had starter battery troubles&lt;/a&gt; with my 2001 VW Eurovan.  As it happened, my father-in-law arrived just at the right time in his fancy new Toyota Camry hybrid.  So we opened the hoods, dug out the jumpstart cables and then got stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the hood of the hybrid Camry is very unfamiliar territory.  I think I was able to identify an internal combustion engine in there, but there was nothing that remotely resembled a good, ol' fashioned lead-acid battery with red and black posts to clip the jump leads to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now by definition, hybrid cars have oodles of battery power, but is any of this whizzy new battery power available to jumpstart hapless internal-combustion vehicles whose century-old technology has given out on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, can a I use a hybrid vehicle to jumpstart a non-hybrid vehicle?  If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case in point is a Toyota Camry hybrid, but I'd also be interested in the general case (any hybrid or full electric vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T16:33:12.443" Title="Can I jumpstart a non-hybrid car from a hybrid or full electric car?" Tags="|battery|starting|jump-start|hybrid|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21276" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:11:08.657" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ants are unlikely to be the source of your issue. Your battery is filled with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfuric_acid&quot;&gt;sulfuric acid&lt;/a&gt;, and that is sufficiently strong enough to completely dissolve any ants that made their way into your battery. Above that, your battery should be completely sealed. Also, even if the ants did manage to get into your engine: metal &gt; ant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue is more than likely a result of the fact that your battery has lost the ability to hold a charge; these car batteries do not last forever. However, like most things, the situation may not be this simple. It could be that the battery charging circuit has a fault such as a bad alternator. I would suggest either trying to get your hands on a car battery charger, or removing the battery and taking it to a local auto parts store for a health check. They will be able to tell you whether you need a new battery or not (and you can get one while you are there!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:11:08.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:25:21.980" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The batteries in these electric and hybrid cars are generally set up to deliver voltages much higher than the 12V (nominal) that your car needs for a jumpstart; it may be difficult or impossible to tap into them in a way appropriate for drawing 12V for that purpose. Even if you could, doing so may unbalance the electric/hybrid car's battery system enough to cause serious trouble with its subsequent recharging because its batteries would now be charging in an ubbalanced configuration (some cells discharged much more than others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:25:21.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:48:30.473" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plugincars.com/why-do-electric-cars-have-lead-acid-12-volt-batteries-when-lithium-lighter-129118.html&quot;&gt;There are two power systems on &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; electric cars&lt;/a&gt; (fully electric and hybrids alike). This is in conjunction with the much higher voltage battery packs which normally power the electric motors. The reason for this extra power system is to power things like lights, electronics, and HVAC systems (to name a few). Most hybrid vehicles (and never a fully electric vehicle) do not have an alternator. Instead they have a DC to DC converter which steps down the power from the battery pack to recharge the 12v lead-acid battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this 12v system to jump other vehicles. The key is to know where the battery is located. In some cars, it is located in the trunk area. In other cars it is located up front. In yet other cars the battery is not easily accessed, but there are power provisions (studs) which allow you to clamp onto with jumper cables. It is good to know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; where your 12v battery is located not only for jumping other vehicles, but also in case your vehicle ever needs to be jumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen noted to be careful when jumping your car or jumping to another car. You need to use the cables to charge the dead battery. Don't let there be large surges of electricity or you can damage electronics. If you leave the jumper cables in place for a while, this will allow some electricity to build up in the dead battery before you try to actually start the other vehicle. As small as this auxiliary battery is on a fully electric car, I don't think I'd use it to jump another vehicle, though you would still need to know where it's at in case you ever need to get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:48:30.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21275" CreationDate="2015-09-21T22:07:52.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely not optimal, but as you say &lt;em&gt;it'll work in a pinch&lt;/em&gt;. That, of course, depends upon the state of the main battery. Even when a battery is &quot;dead&quot;, it doesn't mean that it's completely flat. It still has some power left in it (lights are dim and the starter only clicks ... but it still has something going on). The overall voltage may be down quite a bit, so it has no chance &lt;em&gt;by itself&lt;/em&gt; to start the vehicle. Realistically, just like when you jump start from another car, it only needs a small amount of added juice to make things happen. The deep cycle battery is not designed for this type of use normally, but will make up the difference if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for if you've actually damaged anything, I'd suggest you haven't done that at all, but you've probably shortened the life of the deep cycle battery by a bit. Also, I would bet you would have noticed by now if there were any residual effects of what you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you take the approach you did with basically taking the deep cycle battery out and using it separately, there really aren't any safety concerns beyond that of normally jumping a vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, what you did by removing the isolation system was &lt;em&gt;very wise&lt;/em&gt;. I would have done what you did in a heart beat if it were my only option. I would not leave myself or my family stranded if I had some other way to get my vehicle going. In the Army we used to call it a &quot;&lt;em&gt;Field Expedient Means&lt;/em&gt;&quot; ... you do what you have to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T22:07:52.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T22:20:05.140" Score="3" ViewCount="55910" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've had my Ford F-150 for a few years now. It's a 2001 and up until the other day it was running and sounding like new. On the way back from work I stopped at the gas station to fill up. When I started it up again and ever since then, it has a ticking or clicking sound only when you step on the accelerator. When it idles you'd never know there was a problem. I've checked the oil and all Tranny and everything is fine. It's a V8 5.6 litre engine. It's got 280,000km or so. Is it an easy fix or do I have to do a rebuild? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12319" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T22:22:21.113" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T17:53:49.563" Title="Ticking or clicking when accelerating" Tags="|engine|ford|noise|acceleration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21282" CreationDate="2015-09-21T22:27:24.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue is most likely that your engine is pinging or knocking due to either carbon buildup or poor gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is if this is a gas station you've never used before, it may have been the gas which is at fault. When the gas gets down a ways (half tank), try putting some high octane fuel in instead of whatever you used (like 91 or 93 if available) and see if the noise goes away. If it does, it probably needs an intake tract cleaning. It could possibly also use a tune up if it hasn't had one recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite method of intake tract cleaning is to do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seafoam treatment&lt;/a&gt;. It can do wonders for how your engine runs and should take care of the ticking noise you are hearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T22:27:24.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21282" CreationDate="2015-09-22T02:40:46.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;its difficult to say where a click can be coming from, another there are several ways to attempt to isolate what general area the clicking is coming from.&#xA;If the click is rotational meaning there is a frequency and period associated with it, and that on more load the clicking gets louder, look to find the source where-ever a rotational element is (wheels//cam//crank)&#xA;I had a click to my car and it was a crank bearing that was offset due to oil starvation, so when the car was on load it would get faster, that motor blew eventually. &#xA;Another thing can be the injectors on the vehicle, have you attempted to use a ford forum? you may get a better response there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9479" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T02:40:46.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21285" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-22T03:36:53.187" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T03:36:53.187" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T03:36:53.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21286" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-22T03:36:53.187" Score="0" Body="An electric vehicle (EV) uses one or more electric motors for propulsion." OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="11239" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T15:10:42.403" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T15:10:42.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21242" CreationDate="2015-09-22T03:48:16.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things to look for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) air in the brake fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) incorrectly assembled brake pads, especially the anti noise shims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air in the brake fluid is the most common cause of low, spongy brake pedal feel. Moisture in the fluid will not substantially change the pedal feel until the fluid temperature exceeds the boiling point of any water in the fluid, then the pedal feel gets very soft. Brake fluid absorbs water if exposed, so the systems are to remain sealed.  Brake fluid older than three years or any color other than that of tea should be flushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improper assembly of the brakes can cause the pistons to be pushed back too far into their bores when the brakes are released. this cause a longer than normal stroke of the brake pedal before resistance is felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also new brake pads installed without surfacing the rotors can result in more pedal effort required for normal braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T07:55:31.763" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T07:55:31.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21276" CreationDate="2015-09-22T04:38:54.147" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;You say your engine &quot;clicks a lot&quot; but won't turn over. That doesn't sound like a battery problem. If you have a battery problem it will either make no noise at all, or try to turn over then get exhausted and give up. It sounds to me like you have a problem with the pinion on the starter motor. &lt;/s&gt; EDIT: according to the comments apparently this can happen with a flat battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TDHofstetter's comment that maybe you left the courtesty light on after killing the ants seems quite likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an easy way to check if the battery is the problem. Put the headlights on and have someone try to start the car. They should dim a little. If the headlights dim excessively, it's a battery problem. If they don't dim at all, it means power isn't reaching the starter motor. Even if it is a battery problem, you need to be sure if it was a damaged battery or simply that you left the lights on all night. Before you pay a garage, get someone to give you a jump start, go for a half hour drive to charge the battery, and see if the problem happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing it isn't, is ants. The ants were on the back seat, nowhere near the engine. I googled to see if the Nissan Maxima is one of those rare cars that has the battery in the back, but all the photos I got showed it in the usual place, in the engine compartment. So that's nowhere near the ants either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="11767" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T12:56:03.340" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:56:03.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21290" CreationDate="2015-09-22T06:45:32.003" Score="0" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you drive a high power gasoline sports or a muscle car with a manual transmission, will it do any damage if I shift gears at 10000 rpm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12323" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T16:06:43.377" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T17:33:20.807" Title="Does shifting gears at 10000 rpm damage my car?" Tags="|engine|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21289" CreationDate="2015-09-22T07:16:35.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Assuming the redline is 10000RPM+. E.g. a slightly modified Mazda RX8 should have a 10k+RPM redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T07:16:35.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:38:12.730" Score="1" ViewCount="2893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having some issue with my ECU or ignition system which I can't fix myself. Only two of my four cylinders are firing. Is it safe to drive my car to the official mechanic at 30km distance? Should I unplug the injectors of the non-firing cylinders to prevent gas from entering and leaving the cylinders and entering/damaging my catalytic converter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:37:13.433" Title="Half of my cylinders aren't firing. Is it safe to move my car to a garage (~30km)?" Tags="|ignition|catalytic-converter|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21291" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:46:28.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would personally avoid it as you'll be putting some very odd stresses on the engine and the heat generated will be non-uniform too.  For the sake of arranging recovery or even finding a friend with a straight bar or even just a sturdy piece of rope, I don't think it's worth potentially ruining your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:46:28.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21276" CreationDate="2015-09-22T08:53:31.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check the cable connections between the battery post and the cable clamps, they have to be clean and tight. Is the battery 5 to 6 years old?&#xA;To really understand this battery problem you'll need a volt meter, or DMM (digital multi meter).  They're cheap, some stores even give them away with purchases.  Set the meter to DC volts measure your battery.  A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 V.  If the voltage is down the best thing to do is charge it.  Once it's charged the car will start as normal.  Then take the volt meter and measure the battery with the engine running and it should be 13.8 to 14.2 Volts.  This extra volt is the alternator keeping the battery charged.  If the battery voltage doesn't go up with the engine running the alternator isn't working.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12325" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T08:53:31.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21232" CreationDate="2015-09-22T10:14:45.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An OBDII display is your best bet. There are lots available similar to this. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIVMB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIVMB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T10:14:45.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T11:27:39.207" Score="5" ViewCount="1480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Tacoma 2001 and my car won't start off the battery under the hood. The battery is brand new and has a full charge. It's been working perfectly for 3 months since I installed the new battery. Today it's like the car is not getting a connection to the battery. When I put the key in I get lights as normal, but when I try to turn the key everything shuts off and only 2 dash lights work. I would think it's just a starter issue, except when I hook up a portable jumper it starts up just fine. The battery voltage is at 12.8 and I was wondering if this seems like a solvable issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12327" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T21:20:10.727" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:53:22.103" Title="Car won't start with a perfect new battery" Tags="|toyota|battery|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21291" CreationDate="2015-09-22T12:37:13.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beneath the stress mentioned by @SteveMatthews, there is another problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A larger amount of unburnt fuel in your exhaust system will damage your catalytic converter. I guess driving 30km with just half the cylinders fireing will be enough to kill the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:37:13.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T13:27:24.080" Score="3" ViewCount="2543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago I replaced the stock rotors for slotted and drilled on all four wheels of my 2003 Monte Carlo.  At the time I needed to replace the rotors and they had a habit of warping.  The new rotors work great and way outlasted the old ones without a hint of warping.  However, after putting them on my car (along with new pads) I started having rings appear on them like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFylK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFylK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is from the front wheel, I have one on the back wheel that is mostly rust ring with 2 small normal rings.  I have considered replacing them but I have not had any impact on braking performance (even with the few times I have had to stand on the brakes) or funny handling in all types of weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed out the pads once thinking it would clear these up, but no luck. I don't know what the insides surface look like either.  I'm in need of new brake pads now and wonder what I can do to improve this situation.  I have read up on turning the rotors and know what it takes to do it with slotted and drilled ones.  I barely drive this car as it is and they are not warped so that is a last resort at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6799" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:11:37.737" Title="How to cleanup disk brake rust rings" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21300" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:05:53.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, but the rotors are the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem like the edges of the holes stick up a tiny bit.  The rotor is a much harder material than the brake pads.  These edges dig out grooves in the brake pads so it can't contact the rotor at other points in the rotation and provide braking force/rust removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in ASCII art:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Pad        ---- &amp;lt; Groove&#xA;-------------    ------------&#xA;&#xA;-------------|  |------------&#xA;  Rotor      |  |&#xA;-------------|  |------------&#xA;                ^ Sharp edges&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat surprised you haven't noticed a loss in braking power.  You have like 40% of the designed area actually making contact! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, slotted and drilled rotors aren't worth much on a street car (not race car).  But put 10 mechanics in a room and you'll get 11 opinions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T14:11:37.737" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:11:37.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19536" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:06:30.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermostat can certainly stick open or closed, but I don't think it'd be the cause of any of your problems.  The thermostat only bypasses the the upper radiator hose through which hot coolant from the engine flows to the radiator to be cooled so your engine reaches normal operating temp faster.  The lower radiator hose, through which the cooled coolant flows to the engine, is always open to the system.  When filling the radiator, coolant will be gravity fed through the lower rad hose, through the water pump, and into the block whether the thermostat is open or closed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plugs are metal discs hammered into holes in the bottom of the block. They're fairly weak, designed to blow out if your coolant freezes for whatever reason rather than the expanding ice cracking your block, but sometimes they also just rust out.  There's also usually a coolant drain plug or two on the block - a bolt just like the oil plug.  If there is, make sure that sucker's tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your head may be cracked, or you could have a blown head gasket.  Sometimes catastrophic head failures don't contaminate the oil (which does indeed produce a frothy substance as you describe); the head could be cracked from the outside into a coolant passage, or, rarely and usually only in poorly manufactured or improperly installed gaskets, the head gasket can blow outward from a coolant passage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and I hope it turns out to be a cheap fix for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12330" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:06:30.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21300" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:09:56.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to skim them on a brake lathe (or have them skimmed on a brake lathe if you don't have access to one yourself) and fit a fresh set of pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:09:56.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21316" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:54:51.303" Score="6" ViewCount="4592" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Buick Regal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54Mef.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/54Mef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It already has a naturally low ride height,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/au0br.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/au0br.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I feel like I've lost some over the years. The suspension is stock with the exception of new shocks I installed about 6 months ago. In the interest of full disclosure I do have a trunk full of car audio equipment, subs and amplifiers, probably 100-150lbs, but I've taken it out at times (like when I replaced the shocks) and it didn't seem to make a lot of difference. I'm looking for a way to economically increase the ride height 1-2&quot; if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T08:06:06.020" Title="How can I increase the ride height of my vehicle?" Tags="|suspension|buick|ride-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21310" CreationDate="2015-09-22T17:23:47.997" Score="8" ViewCount="3246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often put my manual car into reverse while still moving forwards. I do it at less than 10mph. However, sometimes the gears crunch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing any damage by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do the gears crunch? I have the clutch down so the gearbox wouldn't be turning, as it is disengaged...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I did it all the time would I be damaging my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this generally, but my car is a 2003 Opel Agila.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: My question is basically &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4048/switching-from-reverse-to-drive-always-stop-completely&quot;&gt;the opposite of this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;. The other question applies to automatic transmissions, and about the torque converter doing the rev matching. I have a manual transmission, and a solid clutch, not a hydraulic torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:33:09.857" Title="Is it bad to shift into reverse while still moving forwards?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|opel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21315" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:04:09.357" Score="5" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to install a trailer hitch on my 2011 Toyota Camry. I have to lower the exhaust. All bolts (14mm or 9/16&quot;) are removed except the one with a special hex nut (not sure is a hex or not but looks like). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I call it a special hex nut because all tool heads I have cannot fit that nut. And from the picture you can see it is not a regular hex nut because it seems it doesn't have equal sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is where I can find a proper tool to hold that nut and then I can screw it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzt6C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uzt6C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hObuh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hObuh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12333" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T20:31:59.700" Title="where to buy the tool for this special hex nut?" Tags="|toyota|trailer|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21308" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:37:47.247" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T18:37:47.247" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T18:37:47.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21309" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:37:47.247" Score="0" Body="German motor manufacturer, part of General Motors." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T18:49:41.430" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T18:49:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21306" CreationDate="2015-09-22T18:52:34.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say that the gearbox won't be turning, but since the car is moving forward, the gears in the gearbox must be turning.  Reverse doesn't usually have a synchromesh, so the gears won't synchronise and will therefor crunch.  Clearly this will cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T18:52:34.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21312" CreationDate="2015-09-22T19:53:28.877" Score="3" ViewCount="3641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned to drive in small cars with no power steering.  As such, I have a good feel for how much more effort is required to move the steering when stationary, as compared to moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to move the power-steering while stationary is useful - it is sometimes necessary when parking in a tight spot, and it is a useful test when evaluating a used vehicle for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I think that power-steering while stationary will put extra load and therefore wear on the steering and front tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it good advice to attempt to avoid power-steering while stationary unless absolutely necessary avoid this extra wear, or is the extra wear so small that it is not worth worrying about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T13:48:49.547" Title="Will power-steering while stationary cause greater tire and steering wear?" Tags="|tires|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21311" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:23:18.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This falls under the same category as leaving your foot on the brake pedal or leaving your hand on the shifter of a manual transmission. Over an extended period of time these things will cause wear in the brakes or shift forks. If this happens just on occasion then there is no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb is, don't make it a habit, but also don't go out of your way to avoid it. Doing it once because you need to pull out of a parking spot won't make your tie rod snap off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="12299" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T21:17:46.090" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T21:17:46.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21311" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:31:36.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steering while the car is stationary is called &lt;em&gt;dry steering&lt;/em&gt;. It does cause more wear on your tires. This is true whether the vehicle has power or manual steering. If you have any doubt to what I'm saying, look on concrete after you get through maneuvering as you are suggesting. You'll see extra tire tracks on the concrete. This is tire tread which has worn off of your tire due to this. You can avoid this if you are even moving at a very slow speed (1-2mph). if the tire is rolling, you can feel how fast you can turn the wheel to turn make the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do realize that sometimes the travel distance you have available to you is quite small. In these cases your do what you have to do. Just realize you are wearing a spot on your tire &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; you turn the wheel in such a maneuver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; While it is &lt;em&gt;harder&lt;/em&gt; on the steering components, due to there being more strain placed on them, the wear &amp;amp; tear is not seen as readily as what you'd see from the tires. Anytime you put &lt;em&gt;more stress&lt;/em&gt; on a component, you will shorten the life of that component. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T21:12:39.200" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T21:12:39.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21307" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:31:59.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nut you are referring to is meant to be welded in place. The bolt then threads into and out of this nut without it moving. What you have run in to is that the bolt is so rusted in the nut, that it broke the welds and now the nut is spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news is that they don't make special tools for welded nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of locking pliers sometimes called vice grips should hold the nut in place while you unscrew the bolt. If the bolt is that rusted it may require some heat (blow torch) to get it loose. Worst case scenario is to cut or drill the head of the bolt off to release the bracket and then replace it with just a regular bolt and nut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T20:31:59.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21305" CreationDate="2015-09-22T20:45:38.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you know, the rear shocks are McPherson struts. There aren't a lot of options to lift a car with a suspension like that. At least not economically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most obvious, would be replacing the springs with new ones. This may give you some extra ride height, as the original ones are likely sagging and the progressive resistance has diminished some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqZwX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqZwX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T20:45:38.903" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21259" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:08:50.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This greatly varies form manufacturer to manufacturer and by what you consider a computer/electronic control unit. For at least the last 20 years cars have been going through the revolution of multiplexing. Let me give you and example. In an old car with power windows big thick wires ran from the drivers door to every other door in the car. When the driver would push the button to roll down a window in the back, the path that the electricity took started from the battery, then went to the drivers door, then back out of the drivers door to the back and finally to the window motor. This makes for very complex wiring, especially in the drivers door (that's not to mention the weight of all that wire). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cars got more than one computer in them there arose a need to create a network so that these computer could talk to each other (PCM, ABS, air bags for example). Eventually other things started to get connected to the network and the networks grew in size. In modern cars every door has a module in it. When the driver pushes a button to lower the back window, a signal is sent over the network to the back door module over some very skinny wires. The module then activates a relay and lowers the window. Some other things that can be multiplexed, seat controls, steering wheel controls, interior lighting, exterior lighting, smart fuse boxes, navigation systems, entertainment systems, rear hatch controls, the list goes on and on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider these on network modules &quot;electronic control units&quot; then a car has lots and lots of them. The amount of them and their location is entirely dependent on the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T21:08:50.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21296" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:22:17.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the cables off of the battery and clean the terminals. You have a bad connection on one side or the other which is not allowing full power to get past. When you place the jumper onto the system, it is directly fed to the cables and allows the vehicle to start. Along the same lines, it could also be that one of the two battery connections is not completely tight ... same result as being dirty or having corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T23:53:22.103" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:53:22.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21112" CreationDate="2015-09-22T21:49:10.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a fundamental difference between an impact wrench and an air ratchet wrench in how they operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An air ratchet wrench is the easiest to understand. Inside there is a vane motor. When air is directed into the vane motor it will spin a little gear box making a back and forth action. This back and forth action is directed into the socket drive via the direction selector. Without applying air an air ratchet wrench is just like any other non air ratchet wrench. Normally you break a fastener loose by hand and then pull the lever to apply the air to back it all the way out. The air wrench is able to apply a semistable amount of continuous torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An impact wrench also has a vane motor. Between the vane motor and the socket drive there is a special set of hammers that operate in two modes. The first mode is if the socket is held stationary like on a tight bolt. In this mode the vane motor, very quickly, spins up the hammers and they impact the output drive. This hammering action can occur as fast as 20 to 40 impacts a second and can generate tremendous amounts of torque. My Ingersoll Rand 2135 impact is rated for 1000 foot pounds. That torque is only achieved at the instant of the hammer strike and is not continuous. The second mode is if there is no or very little resistance on the socket drive. In this case the hammers stay locked and the impact smoothly spins the fastener. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both types or wrenches come in 1/4 in, 3/8 in, and 1/2 in drives. Impacts also come in a 3/4 in drive and 1 in drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the two is not just torque it is the desired application as well. If you want to loosen something very tight or with a sudden shock then an impact is your tool. If you want to tighten something very tight and it's big enough that your not afraid to snap it off then and impact is your tool. If space is limited and something is not very tight then an air wrench may be your choice. I've seen people take something apart with an impact an put it back together with and air wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note, an impact translates little to no torque to the end user. Just support the weight and hold it steady. The air wrench translates ALL to torque to the end user and it is up to the user to hold it steady. Be prepared when pressing the lever/button on the air wrench. If you are not prepared busted knuckles or hilarity will ensue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T23:08:38.953" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T23:08:38.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21282" CreationDate="2015-09-22T23:17:30.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have incidentally developed a minor exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold. That can sound exactly the way you describe. The fix, if this is correct, is to replace the exhaust manifold gasket or possibly the exhaust &quot;doughnut&quot; where the exhaust manifold connects to the exhaust pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspect the manifold gasket if the ticking is low frequency, the doughnut if the ticking is high frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6578" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T23:17:30.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21322" CreationDate="2015-09-23T01:31:56.027" Score="2" ViewCount="3387" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious ... any downside beside a lot of vibrations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12335" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T03:26:04.717" Title="What happen if an engine is welded directly to frame (no mounts)?" Tags="|engine|vibration|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2015-09-23T01:34:56.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise and vibration are the two biggies for the downside. Most serious races have their engines solid mounted to the frame. The motor mounts are just there to make it more comfortable for the driver. If you aren't worried about comfort, solid mount is the way to go. I'm sure you have to go around and tighten things once in a while as well. Vibration has a way of loosening things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T01:34:56.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2015-09-23T01:54:17.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not going to be able to weld the block to the frame, due to the block (likely) being cast.  You can bolt it with solid motor mounts, which are commercially available for more common performance engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T01:54:17.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21331" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:57:06.193" Score="8" ViewCount="9592" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle recently required a new stator (plus a new regulator rectifier and battery) because the stator burnt out and fried everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the typical causes of a burnt-out stator?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it generally occur from age and general wear and tear?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could loose/faulty wiring burn it out faster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could the additional current from my heated grips and extra brake lights have caused additional drain and shortened its life?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 Kawasaki Ninja EX650&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T20:36:53.707" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T20:43:17.490" Title="Kawasaki EX650 - What causes a stator to burn out?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|alternator|kawasaki|stator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2015-09-23T06:51:49.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be very expensive to replace if the frame or the engine get damaged.&#xA;FYI, many motorcycles, if not all, have the engine directly bolted to the frame. The main downside I can see is the vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7628" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T06:51:49.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21325" CreationDate="2015-09-23T09:14:22.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is more likely that a fault in the rectifier would have the caused the overload of the stator.  A bad connection is unlikely to have caused the problem, however a short circuit could have caused it, but that would more likely have blown a fuse first.  Extra load on the electrical circuit could have damaged the rectifier and then the stator, especially if they were bypassing a fuse, however heated grips and brake lamps don't sound like they would cause too much extra load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T10:33:24.820" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T10:33:24.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19531" CreationDate="2015-09-23T12:18:34.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to leave it disconnected but then I drive a Volkswagen TDI so emissions is somewhat of a sore subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving it disconnected shouldn't do any damage to your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T12:18:34.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21338" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:48:45.050" Score="1" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back-story: I bought a used 2012 Chrysler Town and Country Touring-L. The driver side mirror was obviously damaged, so I returned the vehicle for warranty work to address that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the newly installed part does not quite look like its passenger side twin. Either the new part is for a different model year, or the old part is also damaged.  Here are cropped images of the original passenger side (left) and new driver side (right) showing the turn signal indicator on the exterior side mirrors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDIAc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDIAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;passenger side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prk2R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prk2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;driver side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the driver side (right image) has a translucent cover, while passenger side (left image) does not.  It also seems like the new mirror is smaller, but that may just be an optical illusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I dug around on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mopar.com/chrysler/town-and-country/2012/shop/335626/41/3107/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOPAR&lt;/a&gt; looking for a match, but not quite sure which part number I should be aiming for.  The numbers on the glass (GNTX0727150200 and GNTX0613122418, driver and passenger respectively) don't appear to match anything in the database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to verify the new mirror assembly is the right part without removing the assembly from the door?  Can anyone comment on whether that passenger mirror assembly is missing its cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="10832" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T15:32:14.153" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T20:21:18.410" Title="2012 Chrysler T&amp;C - Exterior mirror questions" Tags="|chrysler|town-and-country|mirrors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:46:15.140" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, there was a fundamental redesign in the cars from around 2002 onwards.  Unfortunately that doesn't help you but I wonder if it is possible to retrofit the later model fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the picture, this has cleared things up.  The fuse that has melted in your unit is S177 which is wired to the alternator.  Apparently as the cable which goes from this fuse to the alternator gets old it begins to corrode, resistance increases as does the temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tried and tested solution amongst the VW guys and gals seems to be to replace this cable with some new, heavy duty shrouded cable to bring the resistance (and associated temperature) back down.  The cable runs from this box down through the battery tray, around the back of your inlet manifold and to your alternator.  Make sure you disconnect the battery before changing this cable and if in doubt, seek assistance from an auto-electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T08:29:51.757" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T08:29:51.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19536" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:17:16.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I found two problems.  The first was a unusually placed coolant hose which on this engine tee's off from the heater core hose and goes behind the engine under the intake manifold and connects to the base of the oil filter.  This hose had sprung a serious leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suspected the culprit seems to have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NOXFKX-YzuI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a thermostat that was stuck closed&lt;/a&gt;.  You can see the test / comparison I on it to check it in the linked video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car-care/389207-citric-acid-to-remove-radiator-rust-3.html#post1064637600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a vinegar flush&lt;/a&gt; on the cooling system because it was really full of rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I haven't noticed any leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:17:16.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:32:46.790" Score="3" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;My driver side power window does not go down automatically but will go down if you keep the switch depressed. On the other hand the up function only work by continuously pulling and releasing the switch. what might be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is definitely not the motor, since I've already repaired it and the window works perfectly up and and down when operated with direct current by passing the switch. The switch is also new but I know there's a possibility it's defective. Awaiting another switch to try. I will post results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastEditorUserId="12348" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T14:39:41.583" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T08:05:11.793" Title="Subaru Forester XT 2002 driver power window malfunctioning" Tags="|electrical|subaru|power-windows|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21333" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:21:18.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lens for the turn signal on the passenger mirror is missing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T20:21:18.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21296" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:31:52.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that battery has a good voltage would suggest that there's an open circuit in the battery. The battery is full of current it just can't come out. If your battery polls are clean and terminals are tight, then that's definitely the problem. The battery has to be changed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T20:31:52.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:50:02.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to deal with this problem some years ago on a VW. What I noticed is that the fusible link ran slack, causing the connection to arc and as a result burnt out the plastic housing below. I couldn't get a fuse box so I by passed the burnt area, had a link fabricated  and secured it with a bolt and nut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T20:50:02.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2015-09-23T21:23:41.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the wire between the alternator and the fuse box.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called the &lt;code&gt;alternator harness&lt;/code&gt;, but I haven't found it for sale online.  It is just a simple (large) wire with two ring connectors crimped on the ends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tends to get a break in the wire near the fuse box that then arcs and overheats; this is not a problem with a short otherwise the fuse would blow, this is an arc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T21:23:41.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21337" CreationDate="2015-09-23T22:24:23.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a weak point in Subarus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a Forester non-turbo 2005 for a few years and I have found that, on occasion, the driver-side power window simply fails to operate. But after drawing from a bucket of patience and then trying sometime later, it will work OK. It now seems to have come good and I haven't seen the problem for a number of months. So the problem is obviously some sort of poor electrical connection/grounding to the motor. Although your symptoms are slightly different, I would expect that a motor failure would stop the window from working at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my drivers-side is RHS but your's is presumably LHS, this may be wear-related or it may simply be that we use the drivers-side a lot more and thus notice it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also purchased a 2006 Impreza recently as a project car and have found that the drivers side window does not operate but all the others are good. When I open it up to fix it, I'll add to this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T22:24:23.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T01:27:26.407" Score="1" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would make the instrument panel brake &amp;amp; battery lights come on at the same time and stay on while driving my 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5? Brakes felt OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12353" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T10:27:29.517" LastActivityDate="2022-12-16T20:04:08.053" Title="2006 Nissan Altima brake and battery dash lights" Tags="|nissan|altima|instrument-cluster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T01:46:07.420" Score="2" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the state of battery technology, is it viable for either motorcycles or cars to replace the original spec 12V lead-acid battery with a different type of battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question comes about as I bought a OEM-spec lead acid battery two weeks ago and put it in a recently purchased but sitting vehicle, only to find that it has somehow been sapping the battery and now seems unable to be recharged to it's original capacity :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, lead-acids seem to be sold based on their CCA (cold cranking amps) whereas other types seem to be sold based on total amp-hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:13:45.237" Title="Viable replacements for lead-acid batteries?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23733" CreationDate="2015-09-24T03:42:01.610" Score="2" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Honda Pilot is having an issue where it loses power and the check engine light and several other lights appear at the same time. If I were to stop the car and cut it off and back on it will work fine. The issue happens a few times a week and may happen multiple times on one drive. See code definitions below. I have seen P2138 before and have replaced the Pedal Position Sensor on another Honda. It's easy. It seems like there would be some connection between the 2 issues since they showed up at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible there is a connection between the 2 issues? If so what is the relationship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2279 Intake Air System Leak&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p2279&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-codes.com/p2279&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P2138 Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor Voltage Correlation DTC&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p2138&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-codes.com/p2138&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12354" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T13:37:29.907" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:02:56.247" Title="Can trouble codes P2138 &amp; P2279 be related for a 2005 Honda Pilot?" Tags="|honda|acceleration|pilot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21346" CreationDate="2015-09-24T08:46:08.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen that CCA is the most important number when buying a new battery. The first number you are looking for is the amp-hours (plus physical size). As the amp-hours already define the volume of the battery, they also roughly determine the CCA.&#xA;One you have found a couple of batteries fitting into your car, you may look for one with higher CCA, or even one with same dimensions, but a little more capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your question:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no alternatives for cars on the marked, because lead-acid batteries are some kind of unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can be charged without the need of too much electronics and tolerate overcharging quite well. Finally, apply 14.4V to them, and they will charge until they are full.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can be charged very fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can deliver very high currents for a short time needed to crank the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They still show a good performance at low temperatures. The CCA is the current the battery can source at -18°C (0°F) for 30s, while maintaining a voltage of 7.2-9V (for 12V batteries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are cheap!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one also has to say that their capacity/weight or capacity/volume is low (bad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for a replacement, LiFePO4 batteries are the best option, but they may easily explode when overcharged. They must be monitored carefully during charging, because when they get too warm, they may explode, too...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is already the problem why you can't just replace a lead-acid battery with a lithium-based one: Because you need additional electronics to charge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further more, LiFePO4 batteries can deliver very high currents for a short time, but each current peak adds some wear to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: The price.&#xA;I've just found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asn-shop.de/LiFePo4-Motorradbatterie-Ladegeraete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;german shop&lt;/a&gt; which indeed sells LiFePO4 batteries as replacement for motorcycle racing sports. They claim a 3.3Ah LiFePO4 could replace a 7Ah lead-acid battery concerning (cold?) cranking amps, but you pay 109€ for it. The lead acid battery is in the order of 40€. However, you also need the full capacity of a battery to supply electrical devices when the motor is not running. The shop sells 7.5Ah for 249€...&#xA;You may now scale this up to the size of a car starter battery...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, they show lots of impressive data about the cranking performance, but nothing about the life time, which is not so important in racing sports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T08:46:08.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21347" CreationDate="2015-09-24T10:12:41.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think it quite possibly could be connected, but there is no guarantee here. You'll want to start with the easy (ie: easy = &lt;em&gt;no $$&lt;/em&gt;) fixes first, then move to replacing parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to do a thorough check of the intake system to ensure there isn't an intake air system leak. The check is easy (but finding the leak may be difficult). Your looking for a crack, break, or leaking at a joint of the air tract &lt;em&gt;after the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor&lt;/em&gt;. This is the metered air portion of the intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, examine the pig tail at the throttle. Look for corrosion at the connector or breakage of the wires leading up to the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBDII link you provided says to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The first thing to do is go online and get the TSBs (technical service bulletins) for you vehicle relating to the code. These TSBs result from customer complaints or recognized problems and the factory recommended repair procedure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Check online or in a service manual for a possible relearn procedure to reset the computer. For example, on a Nissan, turn the ignition on and wait 3 seconds. Within the next 5 seconds depress and release the pedal 5 times. Wait 7 seconds, press, and hold the pedal for 10 seconds. When the check engine light begins to blink, release the pedal. Wait 10 seconds and depress the pedal again for 10 seconds and release. Turn the ignition off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pull the electrical connector out of the throttle body. Inspect it closely for missing or bent female terminals. Look for corrosion. Clean any corrosion using a small pocket screwdriver. Place a small amount of electrical grease on the terminals and reconnect it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the terminal connector has bent or missing pins you can pick up a new &quot;pigtail&quot; at most auto parts stores or from the dealer. Inspect the top cover on the throttle body for cracks or warping. If any are present, call the dealer and ask if they sell just the top cover. If not, replace the throttle body. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;With a voltmeter, probe the accelerator pedal sensor. It will have 5 volts for reference and next to it a varying signal. Turn the key on and slowly depress the pedal. The voltage should climb from .5 to 5.0 smoothly. Replace it if the voltage spikes or it has no voltage at the signal wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Look online for wire terminal identification on the throttle body of your vehicle. Probe the throttle body connector for power to the throttle motor. Have a helper turn the key on and slightly depress the pedal. If no power is present, the computer is at fault. If there is power the throttle body is malfunctioning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, replace the parts you deem necessary. This could be the pedal &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; the throttle body itself. When the parts are replaced, make sure you clear the codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T10:12:41.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21345" CreationDate="2015-09-24T10:29:31.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could very well be your alternator has gone out. Open the hood and put the probes from a multimeter set to vdc onto the battery terminals. Observe the voltage of the battery with the vehicle running. If the voltage is slowly creeping down, your alternator is not functioning (it's not charging the battery, so the engine is absorbing the energy to keep running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T10:29:31.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21259" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:05:29.007" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autosec.org/pubs/cars-usenixsec2011.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Experimental Analyses of Automotive Attack Surfaces&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Charette estimates&#xA;  that a modern luxury vehicle includes up to 70 distinct&#xA;  ECUs including tens of millions of lines of code [5]&#xA;  [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[5] R. Charette. This car runs on code. Online: http:&#xA;  //www.spectrum.ieee.org/feb09/7649, Feb.&#xA;  2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://spectrum.ieee.org/transportation/systems/this-car-runs-on-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://spectrum.ieee.org/transportation/systems/this-car-runs-on-code&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These are impressive amounts of software, yet if you bought a premium-class automobile recently, ”it probably contains close to 100 million lines of software code,” says Manfred Broy, a professor of informatics at Technical University, Munich, and a leading expert on software in cars. All that software executes on 70 to 100 microprocessor-based electronic control units (ECUs) networked throughout the body of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even low-end cars now have 30 to 50 ECUs embedded in the body, doors, dash, roof, trunk, seats, and just about anywhere else the car’s designers can think to put them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12308" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T11:05:29.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21337" CreationDate="2015-09-24T13:44:47.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be lucky and find that it's only the switch that is bad - that's an easy fix as the switches simply plug in. If it's not that, then it's probably the motor going rotten, as per timbo's car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T13:44:47.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:08:39.077" Score="0" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that it is possible to disable DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). I'm wondering how bad it could be to leave DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) functioning and add a chip to a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T21:32:38.477" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T12:55:19.213" Title="Chiptuning for a car with DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is a bad idea?" Tags="|diesel|exhaust|electronic-control-module|diesel-particulate-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:13:47.033" Score="6" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the conditions required for the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) regeneration? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it only exhaust temperature or speed and RPM also? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if DPF can regenerate while car is at standstill keeping the revs high in a neutral gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T01:13:52.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T22:27:49.407" Title="Volvo S80 II 2.4 D5 DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) regeneration conditions" Tags="|exhaust|diesel|volvo|s80|diesel-particulate-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2015-09-24T16:43:46.970" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This message means you have too much oil in the engine.  The dip stick should only read 3/4 from min to max.  This is on the D5 euro 4 engine (silver engine cover).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know this..  I've had this issue on my V50 D5 a couple of weeks back when I thought it needed a top up.  Buy a syphon of Ebay £5 and suck some out.  Or go to a Volvo dealer and they will do it for £50 + they re set the messages.  Again I know this because I went to a Volvo dealer as no independant garage would suck oil out saying the level was correct, and thinking I was mad...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12361" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T16:43:46.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:43:54.820" Score="3" ViewCount="8652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about cars, so I might get some terms wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend drives an '01 Sienna LE and for a couple months the check engine light has been on. When I took the van to O'Reilly's and had them check the computer, it came back with the following error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0330: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been working with a friend of mine to try and fix it, as he's extremely proficient with cars, but he's also somewhat hard to get a hold of sometimes. Things we've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing the fuses. Not all, but the ECM and a couple others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using an octane booster and a higher grade gasoline (89 as compared to the usual 87).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light is still on, and he said that now we'll need to take the intake off/apart to get the sensor which is inside near the cylinders. Is there anything else we can try? It's like $130 for a new sensor, plus mechanic fees. We just don't have the money for all of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12363" LastEditorUserId="12363" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T18:02:20.507" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:36:14.107" Title="2001 Toyota Sienna LE P0330 Error" Tags="|toyota|sensor|sienna|knock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:16:52.713" Score="1" ViewCount="3714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a weird problem with my headlamp on my 1983 Honda FT500.  When I go out to start it in the morning, insert my key and turn it (engine still not started tho), the headlamp comes on as one would expect, and is quite bright.  When I start the motor, however, the headlamp immediately dies.  I &lt;strong&gt;think&lt;/strong&gt; I have noticed that if I let the bike run for several minutes that the headlamp will come on again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  Unfortunately I do not think it is a problem with the battery. Today I started the bike and let it idle for about 20 minutes. The light still didn't come on. Then I drove it around (locally only) for about 20 minutes. The light did not come on. When I got home I took the battery out and used a multimeter to test the voltage and it showed 12.85, which I understand to be quite strong. The bike starts quickly, too. So the fact that the bike starts quickly, and the battery maintains a strong charge even after a 40 minute idle + a 20 minute ride makes me think it is staying charged as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12368" LastEditorUserId="12368" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T20:49:35.943" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T18:48:13.383" Title="Motorcycle Headlight Dies After Engine Start" Tags="|motorcycle|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21406" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:13:00.737" Score="7" ViewCount="14292" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been raining a lot recently, and I have often been getting my pedals wet, they have been quite slippery when I get in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to them to make them grip better in the rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T19:57:32.923" Title="How can I make my metal pedals less slippery when wet?" Tags="|pedals|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21378" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:15:52.403" Score="1" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some square roof bars, but whenever I drive along at 40mph+ there is a loud howling noise coming from them. It isn't just my car, as whenever I remove them the noise disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also happens in a friends car with square roof bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are what I am talking about (not roof rails!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDzif.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDzif.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do they make this noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do? Removing the bars is a pain as I cannot store them anywhere in the car when driving along...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T11:16:36.303" Title="What is the howling noise from the roof bars when driving at speed?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22611" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:26:48.860" Score="8" ViewCount="8592" Body="&lt;p&gt;This simple question has been bugging me for a while. The amount of fuel injected into a petrol engine is calculated according to the amount of air entering through the throttle valve (as measured by the mass airflow/manifold absolute pressure sensor). However the amount of fuel injected into a diesel engine simply depends on the pedal press and the air is able to be sucked into the cylinders freely. That means in normal operation diesel runs really lean and petrol is constantly maintaining the stoichiometric ratio (high load situations not considered). Why can't the petrol engine run lean without the throttle valve as well, just depending on the amount of fuel injected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T22:31:42.540" Title="Why does a petrol engine need to maintain an air-fuel ratio, while a diesel engine doesn't?" Tags="|diesel|gasoline|throttle|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:28:05.457" Score="5" ViewCount="3037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced (well, had someone else replace) the engine in my 06 Solstice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine runs great for the most part (will open a separate question about that), but there is a weird vibration at about 3K RPM. The vibration disappears when the clutch is disengaged (? pedal down == disengaged, I think). It appears to be RPM-dependent, not speed dependent, which is weird since it stops if the clutch is disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other potentially-relevant data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Spec stage 2 clutch, pilot bearing, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-used flywheel from previous engine. It's a Spec aluminum flywheel with about 2k miles on it. It worked fine in the previous install (same car).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine seems strong and smooth - it revs fine, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably a different problem: there's a weird rubbing/grinding feel when the wheels are turned to the right. I notice it most when backing out of a parking space or my driveway. It does not happen when turning left. I thought it might be a wheel bearing, but it only happens when the wheels are turned to the right. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop that did the engine install thought it might be a bad transmission mount. They offered to swap it out but I was already several thousand dollars in, and it's not a difficult procedure so I thought I'd do it myself. However, I haven't had the time to jack up the car and have a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my guess-analysis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine runs fine otherwise, and the vibration doesn't seem to affect revving, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it was coming from behind the transmission (driveshaft, differential, etc.), I would expect it to be speed-dependent, not RPM-dependent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flywheel was good before, can't imagine why it would be out of round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad transmission mount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad clutch install (mind you, it works just fine, though it feels as if the slave cylinder isn't pushing quite far enough - can be &quot;notchy&quot; going into gear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:52:20.003" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T01:42:09.067" Title="New engine and clutch, have weird vibration @3K RPM" Tags="|vibration|drivetrain|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21361" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:05:53.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine make a whistling noise, as far as I am aware it is caused by the air passing around them. Mine have a slot underneath which probably doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:05:53.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21367" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:16:52.933" Score="5" ViewCount="39743" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Subaru Impreza&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a recently purchased car. All other windows can be opened from the driver's side 4 switch control, except for the drivers window so it appears the drivers window motor itself has failed. What is the best way to replace the motor in the door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T22:00:19.470" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T09:03:35.273" Title="What is the simplest way to replace a Subaru front power window motor?" Tags="|subaru|power-windows|impreza|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21362" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:17:43.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you already know why a gasoline engine keeps the fuel/air ratio as close to the stoichiometric ratio as possible, but just for the sake of information for anyone else:&#xA;The stoichiometric fuel/air ratio is the amount of oxygen required to burn all of the gasoline completely. A &quot;lean&quot; burn leaves some oxygen leftover and a &quot;rich&quot; burn means the gasoline does not burn as completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesels run lean because, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/expert-advice/0610dp-how-diesel-engine-works/&quot;&gt;this website:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the diesel engine, the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber near the end of the compression stroke and ignites spontaneously. This is responsible for the combustion sound that a diesel engine generates that is music to the ears of everyone who reads this magazine. As mixing between the fuel and air occurs, burning continues. This process is very heterogeneous (since the fuel and air are mixed in a combustion chamber it is not as uniform as in a gas engine that has the mixture created prior to entering the cylinder head). Soot is formed during combustion because some of the fuel burns with insufficient oxygen, and the combustion of the fuel is not completed. As additional fuel is injected, more and more soot is produced. Therefore, the air/fuel ratio of the diesel engine must always be leaner than stoichiometric to prevent excessive amounts of smoke. For this reason, a modified, high-output diesel will blow black smoke because it is fueled for power alone with no concern for soot generation. The smoke-free diesel has less fuel present in the cylinder than in the cylinder of the gasoline engine, and diesel power is therefore reduced in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline is injected before it is ignited, so it has time to mix more homogeneously. Diesel is injected towards the end of the compression stroke, so it combusts under the pressure almost immediately before it has time to spread throughout the available air. As the above quote states, running the diesel engine lean is an attempt to reduce the amount of soot produced, which reduces emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To address your question of what happens to a gasoline engine that burns lean.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injecting gasoline into the engine has a cooling effect. A lean-burning engine, where there is less gasoline than necessary to achieve the stoichiometric ratio, will run hotter than an engine running at the stoichiometric ratio or one running rich. Run too lean and you risk overheating and extra wear and tear on engine components such as seals. At higher compression ratios, lean engines can be more fuel efficient and produce less carbon emissions. The downside is that there are more &lt;em&gt;NOx&lt;/em&gt; emissions that require a more complex catalytic converter than most modern vehicles have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also clear up your final sentence. Your accelerator is connected to the throttle valve (either directly or &quot;drive by wire&quot;) and controls how much air is allowed to pass into the engine. It does not directly control how much gasoline is injected. The mass flow sensor &lt;em&gt;detects&lt;/em&gt; how much air is being passed into the engine, passes that information to the ECU, and the ECU controls how much fuel is injected. Whether your car is running lean or rich is decided by the ECU through inputs from the mass flow sensor, &lt;em&gt;O2&lt;/em&gt; sensor, and/or manufacturer or user settings. In the days of carburetor, it was easy to tune the engine to run rich or lean, but you need special equipment to adjust the settings in an ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, there are various reasons a manufacturer or vehicle owner might want to run their engine lean or rich having to do with performance, cooling, or fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:22:38.900" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:22:38.900" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21365" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:53:38.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have tested the window switch and wiring to ensure it is the motor, there really is only one way to replace it, but it is fairly simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find detailed directions with pictures &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?p=679&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Remove the front door trim.&#xA;  *Caution, Do not apply excessive force to the clips. Otherwise the clip may be broken.&#xA;  Pull up the inner remote cover toward you to remove the upper hook. Pull it down to remove the lower hook. Remove the inner remote cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Remove the screw, then remove the power window switch assembly and disconnect the harness connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Remove screw under window switch panel. Then remove the clips of the trim panel using clip remover (or flat-head screw-driver) to remove trim panel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Remove the Seal Cover. *Carefully remove sealer, Excessive force will easily break cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5) Remove the mirror gusset cover&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) Disconnect the mirror connector. Then loose the screws and remove mirror assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7) Remove the stabilizers and trim hooks. (* Tech Tip, use a marker to trace outline for the position on installation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8) Remove the rear end of door weather strip and weather strip outer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9) Move glass to the position shown in the figure, then remove the two nuts from the service holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10) Remove the door glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;11) Loosen the nuts to remove the rear sash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12) Disconnect the motor connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;13) Loosen four bolts and two nuts to remove the regulator assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;14) Loosen the screws to remove motor assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation of the new motor is the reverse of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:53:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21363" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:59:15.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the issue happens only when the clutch is engaged the problem is not with the engine, flywheel, or pressure plate. Since it isn't speed dependent, but RPM dependent, we can eliminate the drive train behind the transmission. Since your transmission didn't have an issue prior to the clutch install, I believe we can eliminate that as well. &lt;strong&gt;The only thing which I believe it could be at this point is an improperly balanced friction disk.&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, the tranny shop &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have done something to the transmission, but from my point of view, that is highly unlikely. While an imbalanced friction disk is &lt;em&gt;highly unlikely&lt;/em&gt;, it is not out of the realm of possibility. It could be caused by improper factory balance, a careless mechanic, or a dislodged (out of place) friction puck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, while the clutch would be covered under warranty, it is unlikely the labor to install the clutch would be. It is, however, something the shop should have noticed prior to giving the car back to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:59:15.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21358" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:36:14.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is more than likely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the sensor. The problem lies in the circuit which &lt;em&gt;goes to the sensor&lt;/em&gt;. Replacing the sensor is probably the last thing I'd do in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I believe it is only a single wire you'd need to trace. It could also be the connector/connection at the sensor itself. In either case, it looks as though the intake manifold will need to come off in order to test the circuit or check the connection. Here is an image of the sensors with the intake off of the engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32G1u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32G1u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaks in the wire usually occur on the engine side of things, as that is where the most heat is located during operation (heat deteriorates things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:36:14.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21374" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:23:27.457" Score="3" ViewCount="5649" Body="&lt;p&gt;To save going to the auto shop each time I need to do an oil change, I'm thinking about buying in bulk. Though I'm unsure if not using the oil for 6 months to a year, and only then putting it in the car and having it in the engine for another 6 months is going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how long does it keep for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:35:52.153" Title="How long can I keep motor oil for before it needs to get put in the car or thrown out?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15630" CreationDate="2015-09-25T00:36:48.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;High mileage radial tyres can see the tread bonding cement and/or the internal steel belts loosen. I have seen this with even quality manufacturers such as Goodyear. Once the tyres begin to wear down and approach the tread depth marker, these issues can occur. Poor inflation can also contribute to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not personally seen a severe tread separation but I have driven on tyres where the belts began to loosen. It happened on all four tyres and the initial indicator was subtle steering vibrations/road following. Even a wheel balance made little difference once this began to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On two of the tyres, looking at the horizontal cross-section, there was an unusual section of an inch or so that was moving outwards. Not something you would see on the around the car tyre check before first drive of the day but evident on closer inspection. The remaining two tyres on the rear exhibited small vibration and then began to show the same characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T00:36:48.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21372" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:16:45.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 Years or so, but storage conditions and oil type have an impact. keep it in a cool place in a sealed container and you'll be good to go.&#xA;see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oil Bible&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevronmarineproducts.com/docs/lubes_bulletins_01_storage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chevron&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/english/files/tt-lubricating-oils-greases-shelf-life-recommendations.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mobil&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and: &lt;a href=&quot;http://syntheticperformanceoil.com/spo/pdf/TSB-storage-and-handling.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AmsOil&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy the 5 gallon bag-box with the spout on it and use it to refill an old 5 Liter oil bottle. This will keep the oil in the bag-box from being exposed to the air, and is a convenient way to get it to the car/truck. As long as you limit the amount of air(Oxygen), moisture, or extreme temperatures the oil is exposed to it will probably out last the five year mark by quite a bit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless you are using this for a lawn mower or motor cycle or some other small engine, you will probably use 4 qt's minimum for an oil change. Which is 1 gallon, that's five oil changes, or 2.5 years for one vehicle if you change the oil every 6 months.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastEditorUserId="12236" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T23:35:52.153" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:35:52.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21359" CreationDate="2015-09-25T08:33:16.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your battery might have died or is in its last legs, when you start the motorcycle the start motor consumes a lot of energy and thus it causes shut down on the headlights and other electronic stuff, in my case it happened to be my instrument cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After running a while the alternator will charge the battery again and so the lamps come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the battery use the multimeter/voltmeter which will have two prongs sticking out red(+ve) and black(-VE) turn the middle knob to 12 or 20 volt scale, connect the prongs to the corresponding terminals on the battery the reading should be around 12.24 to 12.66.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    12.66v . . .  100%&#xA;    12.45v . . .  75%&#xA;    12.24v . . .  50%&#xA;    12.06v . . .  25%&#xA;    11.89v . . .  0%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T08:33:16.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21377" CreationDate="2015-09-25T10:28:23.840" Score="13" ViewCount="3797" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Red Cross division I am with recently purchased a new ambulance. It comes with a touchscreen display in the cockpit where we can control lights, sirens, check the temperature in the back, control airconditioning and some other stuff. Part of this display shows the voltage of both batteries in the car, both the regular car battery and the secondary battery that powers lights, sirens and all other things when the engine isn't running. This is an actual measurement as I can see this drop a little as time goes by when we draw on the battery without the engine running. With the engine running, I see both values go up to 14V, otherwise this starts at 13V and very gradually goes down to 12.7V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually curious if this measurement is useful in any way. We occasionally do long stretches of time where we are on duty and in our ambulance (things like music festivals, sporting events...). We have the radio on at times but need to remember to start the car every few hours and have it idle a bit to make sure we don't drain the battery completely. So naturally I'm curious if the little numbers on our display would warn us of impending drained-battery doom or not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12372" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:11:37.700" Title="What can we reliably tell from an in-vehicle battery voltage display?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21376" CreationDate="2015-09-25T10:34:53.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Voltage levels let you know how much charge is present in the battery thus warning you before the entire thing drains out. For example the below information is for the standard car battery which starts the car, works the steoreo etc , not the additional equipments like on the ambulance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 12.66v . . .  100% Charge&#xA; 12.45v . . .  75%&#xA; 12.24v . . .  50%&#xA; 12.06v . . .  25%&#xA; 11.89v . . .  0% Charge&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the display is basically telling you how much charge you have in your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated by Mauro it also lets you know if the charging process is working as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;14v = normal alternator output.&#xA;Engine running and no change in voltage = insufficient charging.&#xA;Engine running + &amp;gt; 14.5v = potentially overcharging.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T11:03:42.883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T11:03:42.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21361" CreationDate="2015-09-25T11:11:36.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whistling is one of the main defects of Square Roof Bars , what you can do is install something called as &lt;strong&gt;windjammers&lt;/strong&gt; which are nothing but sheet of metal/plastic which acts as a wind deflectors and makes the bars more aerodynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jR93B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jR93B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some examples are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012SDZZG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-8001115-WindJammer/dp/B0012SDZZG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what you can do is tie some ropes across the bars which might rupture the constant flow of air causing the whistling noise but then it makes the car look odd and are not as good as ready-made wind deflectors as seen above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T11:16:36.303" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T11:16:36.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21354" CreationDate="2015-09-25T12:31:07.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK it's common that people have a &quot;DPF Delete&quot; from their engine map which can improve performance at the cost of the vehicle no longer complying with emissions standards.  There seems to be no adverse long term effects on the vehicle over those with the DPF in place with the exception that they can consume clutch packs after fewer miles if driven hard (which relates more to the extra engine performance placing more strain on the part than the actual DPF removal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rolling road remap place behind my house and I regularly see all kinds of cars having a DPF delete carried out (curiously few Volkswagens though - as the DPF delete is effectively what they are in hot water for with the American authorities right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T12:31:07.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:34:21.253" Score="6" ViewCount="4730" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a Renault Laguna 1.6 2003 , the ECU got damaged physically (the connector went off )  so i have to replace it with another one ( used ECU ) , I've read that I will need to disable the Immobilizer or decode the ECU ( or similar terms )  and the processes includes reading and altering the EEPROM or Flash Memory of the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have the Old ECU would it be enough to just replace the old chips into the new ECU? Are there other things I should be considering during the replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the broken ECU :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjQjK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjQjK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9012" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:54:39.853" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T09:00:12.967" Title="ECU replacing procedures" Tags="|electronic-control-module|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:56:13.300" Score="0" ViewCount="4508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 honda civic. The engine started knocking while my boyfriend was driving it. He said it had just started. It was low on oil so i figured it was just overheating. However that didnt fix the problem. I thought misfire but we just replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs. It is still knocking and the check engine light if flashing. A few mechanic friends that i called said my engine is about to blow. Just looking for other answers and to see if thats correct&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12374" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T14:50:41.157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T09:10:40.563" Title="99 honda civic motor issues" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|cel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21381" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:07:23.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was low on oil and you have been driving it, then you have probably worn any number of bearings and possibly the cam shaft.  The engine could be ready to die.  Being low on oil is not generally a cause for overheating.  Overheating would generally be caused by being low on coolant (water).  If the knocking is a low pitched thud, then it could be coming from the crankshaft/con rod bearings.  If it is a higher pitched tapping, then that would likely be the cam shaft.  Rather than 'blow', it will probably just get noisier then stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:07:23.120" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21376" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:11:37.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three different ways to measure electrical stuff and they are all inter-related. Volts, Amps and Watts. Watts = Volts * Amps They are the equivalent of pressure, flow and work. Watts is how much work is done, Amps is how much current is drawn and volts is how hard the current can be pushed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the volts on its own doesn't tell you much, but knowing the volts and the context can tell you a lot.  With the engine off, things are simple. The voltage tells you how much 'pressure' is available from the battery. The more things you turn on, the more current they draw, the less push that is left. They longer they stay on, the more they discharge the battery and again, the less push that is left. If the volts get too low, you might not be able to do something you need to do (such as start the engine).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second thing to remember is the current (Amps) is directly related to heat, more Amps means more heat and too much heat damages stuff. But... the lower the voltage the more amps that are needed to do the same job. Say you have a fully charged battery with 13.6Volts (12Volt batteries are never 12Volts unless they are in trouble). To turn your headlights on (two 55watt bulbs) needs 110Watts / 13.6 volts = 8amps. Leave them until until your battery drains down to 10Volts, and now you are using 11Amps to produce the same light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is running, the alternator is providing voltage to charge the battery and run everything else. Typically it will be about 14.4 Volts (which reduces the current needed and hence the heat) but there is a limit to the current the alternator can produce. Again, the more things you turn on, the more current they will draw and the lower the voltage will become. If the volts drop below about 13Volts with the engine running, then you are no longer charging your battery. If they drop below 12.5 Volts, then you are actually draining your battery and if left too long, it will go flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:11:37.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21381" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:50:25.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you mechanic friends are correct. From your description, the car was driven too long on low oil and is now suffering the effects. If you have topped the oil off and are still having the knocking sounds, it's more than likely the engine has damaged bearings with a classic rod knock to tell you about it. With a rod knock, it is only a matter of time before the engine self destructs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your car is a Honda, you should be able to find a decent used engine for a reasonable price. Honda made &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; Civics. Engines for these should be plentiful and &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; cheap. Maybe you can get one of your mechanic friends to install it for you for cheap. Better yet, trade your boyfriend in on one who has his man card and can do the work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T23:48:07.483" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:48:07.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:45:02.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just measure your actual MPG by filling your tank all the way, then divide how many miles you drive until the next fill up by the number of gallons of said fill up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mileage was off with a similar setup because I had larger aftermarket rims and tires, which means the car travels a longer distance for each rotation. Even a different profile tire can make a difference, although your discrepancy seems quite large. If you do have a different tire diameter, you should be able to adjust this in the app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T18:45:02.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21392" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:24:35.387" Score="5" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the VW emissions cheating scandal, news reports say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;According to the EPA, &amp;quot;the position of the steering wheel, vehicle speed, the duration of the engine's operation, and barometric pressure&amp;quot; (all very specific indicators of an emissions test) acted as the activation switch for the &amp;quot;defeat device.&amp;quot; Essentially, the vehicles' electronic control module (ECM) was set to &amp;quot;clean&amp;quot; mode for the remainder of the emission's test procedure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is barometric pressure an indication that a test is being performed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the test performed in a low-pressure chamber or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12410" OwnerDisplayName="DWalker" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:26:17.820" Title="How is barometric pressure related to emissions testing?" Tags="|obd-ii|emissions|electronic-control-module|testing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21386" CreationDate="2015-09-25T21:55:25.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my home state of Colorado, we are required to get emissions tests on our vehicles every two years (after they are a certain number of years old). They way they do this is they place the car on a dynamometer (like a treadmill), put the car in gear, and bring the wheels up to a certain speed. They have a fan placed in front of the car to help cool it down during this process and a cone behind the car captures the exhaust and measures it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, a car could detect it is being tested for emissions through a combination of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The steering wheel is stationary. During normal driving conditions, even on a completely straight, flat road, there will be at least minute changes in the steering wheel. The car could detect that the wheels are spinning, but there is no change to the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the duration of the engine's operation, but the vehicle speed and the load can certainly be detected to some extend. If the wheels are brought up to 35 mph but the car is not moving, there must certainly be ways for the car to determine that it is not having to work as hard to maintain speed as it would if the car were actually in motion. This could be negated by adding load to the dyno.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel speed vs. actual speed. Most cars manufactured today have a GPS unit, which can detect speed (much more accurately than your speedometer, I might add). If the wheels are spinning at 35 mpg, but the car is stationary, the car could detect this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Given that the wheels are turning at 35 mph, but the wind speed from the fan in front of the car is probably different, let's say 20 mph, the barometric pressure will vary from what the car is expecting. Perhaps it is measuring the pressure of the air entering the intake (using the mass flow sensor), or maybe it has a separate barometric pressure sensor for whatever reason, but wind speed plays a factor in pressure. Think of an airplane wing where the wind speed above the wing is faster than below the wing. This creates a lower pressure above the wing, which produces lift. The car might be able to detect that the barometric pressure is not what it would expect from a car going 35 mph. Along the same lines, since the fan is placed in front of the car before they accelerate the wheels, the car could detect that the barometric pressure did not change from 0 mph to 35.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without reading the article or knowing more information about how VW did this, my response is largely speculative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T22:25:44.637" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T22:25:44.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T23:20:06.560" Score="2" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the 2004 Explorer use J1850 or some other protocol?  Is there a way to extract codes by jumpering pins on the OBD connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12378" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T15:32:20.730" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T19:27:11.293" Title="What OBD II protocol does the 2004 Ford Explorer use?" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|explorer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21388" CreationDate="2015-09-26T00:09:22.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be using PWM J1850 protocol as almost all Fords use that one. You can see if it's the PWM by looking at the DLC itself. You'll see the connector which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CL7Px.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CL7Px.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, 10, and 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the advent of OBDII, almost no vehicle OBDII systems will allow you to jumper pins to get the codes. There are still a few out there, but I'm pretty sure Fords won't let you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T00:09:22.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T01:42:27.373" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in an accident recently.  Tboned by a minivan at an intersection.  Totaled my nice bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My buddy gave me an old rust bucket he had laying around just to get me to work for a few weeks until I get something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Honda 600cc, early 90s.  Carbureted.  I replaced the battery but it's not holding a charge.  It's backfiring all the time.  And it accelerates insanely slowly, and pretty much sounds like it's going to fall apart if you give it the evil eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to replace the chain this weekend and take it apart to see where I can give it some love without really dumping any money into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips?  Not sure what to do about the backfire or battery issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T01:02:43.513" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T01:02:43.513" Title="Tuning an ancient carbureted Honda motorcycle" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|carburetor|tuning|backfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21390" CreationDate="2015-09-26T02:22:43.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For you backfire check the following components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean Spak plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean carb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the other two dont work then there might be issue with valve seating, not 100% sure but there are chances since its old vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your battery issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Testing-batteries-with-multimeter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check&lt;/a&gt; check the alternator/rectifier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T03:29:04.883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T03:29:04.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21386" CreationDate="2015-09-26T04:45:51.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The federal test procedures for vehicle emission certification(FTP) is run on a dynamometer. It starts with the vehicle at an exact temperature and barometric pressure and humidity. It is run in a lab that has carefully controlled exact air conditions that are maintained throughout the test. The vehicle is kept is stored at the test temperature for hours before the test so that it stable. It is lifted onto the dynamometer, the engine is not started until the test is begun.  The steering wheel is not moved during the test. It is driven on a very exact speed, load and time profile while the tailpipe gas emissions are measured.  It would be simple for the onboard computer to recognize the beginning of the test and put the computer in a clean drive mode. The exact temperature and barometric pressure would be enough to start the computer to looking for the test.  A picture of the test profile: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDXYz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDXYz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T06:26:21.623" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T06:26:21.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21398" CreationDate="2015-09-26T07:30:38.230" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you press the gas pedal, the engine makes louder sound, which I am guessing is the sound of fuel explosion, so why if you are in neutral the sound gets louder than you are engaged to the transmission though it is the same amount of fuel igniting both cases??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="11366" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T12:30:52.457" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T12:30:52.457" Title="What is the car's sound?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21365" CreationDate="2015-09-26T07:57:58.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is the same as a Forester, There is a much simpler method than that listed in poisson's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove door card and seal cover, and unscrew and remove the switch panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slacken off the 4 bolts holding the regulator assembly to the door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplug the motor from the loom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reach into the door, and undo the three bolts holding the motor in. You will have to do this by feel...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the mechanism away from the inner skin of the door. This should give enough room to extract the motor. It's quite a tight space, so a job for nimble fingers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refitting is the reverse of removal! Make sure the regulator is at the top as you refit the motor, as it might sink slightly under its own weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T07:57:58.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T08:03:33.600" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm paying US$800 in labor for a mechanic to replace a blown engine with a used one I purchased. Should changing gaskets be his responsibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be paying for the gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12383" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T00:58:26.053" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:12:32.810" Title="Paying a mechanic to replace a blown engine for a used one - should he be responsible for changing gaskets?" Tags="|leak|gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21396" CreationDate="2015-09-26T08:07:48.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether you are paying him to rebuild the replacement engine, or to just fit it as it is... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T08:07:48.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21393" CreationDate="2015-09-26T09:18:27.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite! &#xA;When you are in gear your transmission consumes the torque produced by the engine resulting in lower RPM &#xA;But when you are in neutral there is nothing holding the engine from releasing the potential energy thus higher revs = more fuel burnt =more sound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T09:18:27.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21423" CreationDate="2015-09-26T11:41:24.800" Score="3" ViewCount="3405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I replace the halogen H1 55w headlight bulbs on Peugeot 307 with decent LEDs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially purchased some &quot;xenon&quot; (blue coated!) bulbs rated 100w but out of 4 only one worked, the other seems to break due to the soldering between bulb and its own socket. ... eBay &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there are any LEDs that I can use instead. I had a pretty good experience with them so far but never tried them on headlights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what would you recommend? A full Xenon upgrade kit? Would it pass the MOT with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:47:46.530" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:47:46.530" Title="Can I replace the halogen H1 55w headlight bulbs on Peugeot 307 with decent LEDs?" Tags="|headlight|peugeot-307|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21399" CreationDate="2015-09-26T13:27:26.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;GE makes a line of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/na/consumer/products/highlights/nighthawk/led-headlights/overview/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nighthawk LED headlights&lt;/a&gt; which might be suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim to exceed all DOT requirements, and they also claim to be less obnoxious to oncoming drivers than HID lamps. They're promoted as being highly durable and suitable for off-road use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sylvania produces the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/ZEVO/Pages/ZEVO-LED-Sealed-Beam.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XEVO line&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many smaller companies offering LED headlights, they seem to be mostly audiophile and car enthusiast specialty sites. My main concern with a smaller company would be that they might not have reliable suppliers, so quality control might be worse. You might want to get in touch with a local car club and see if they have recommendations. LED headlight sales seem to be highly targeted at the enthusiast market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T13:27:26.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21405" CreationDate="2015-09-26T14:51:32.123" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a huge problem obviously, which is why I'm alright with doing it myself. It seems like the spring has just come out of its socket. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptU1Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Album here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I8qW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I8qW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBAsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBAsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it doesn't spring back up and if you'll notice in the second photo there's a small bit of chrome protruding from the bottom that isn't seen on the handles that still work properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to safely pop the cap off the base so that I can put the spring back into place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12387" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T16:02:35.300" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:29:53.697" Title="How to repair assist handle on 2015 Toyota Avalon" Tags="|toyota|repair|interior|avalon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21404" CreationDate="2015-09-26T15:43:37.290" Score="2" ViewCount="81145" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no leak? So how does the coolant level decreases as time passes? Does it get pressurized so it's level decreases? Or what happens? Since it keeps circulating to the engine and coming back so why do we have to add some coolant every year or something, even if it evaporates inside it will again condensate after the engine is off and cooled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="11366" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T16:09:13.470" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T18:37:18.383" Title="How does the coolant disappear?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21403" CreationDate="2015-09-26T15:58:41.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only four places (in general) coolant can go missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Out an external leak and onto the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Out through the tail pipe getting burnt (turned into steam) because of an internal leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Into the oil through an internal leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very small amount may evaporate from the system if it's not a closed system (ie: no overflow reservoir) ... this really isn't a big deal, just add a small amount to make up the difference. (note: this fourth one was added as an edit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since coolant is a liquid, it does not compress, even if pressurized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is pretty obvious as you can find it on the ground, usually. A leak may not occur until the system is fully pressurized, though (ie: after the entire system is fully heated). You would usually see this going on due to steam escaping the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is not as easy to tell, especially if it's a small leak. You could have a very small leak in the head gasket, which would go out through the exhaust. You would probably not see this going on, as when gasoline is burned, it creates a large amount of steam as well. You may be able to smell a sweet smell from the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third way you may or may not see as well, depending on the amount of coolant loss. If it is just a very small amount, it will mix in with the oil and get evaporated. If it's a larger amount, it will turn the oil to look like chocolate milk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have just a small amount of coolant missing over time, a radiator stop leak (if used correctly) will find and stop the leak without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T16:32:43.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:32:43.707" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21402" CreationDate="2015-09-26T16:29:53.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real way to fix these kinds of springs once they are broke. Replacement is probably your best course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest/cheapest way to go about it is to just replace the handle with one from a junk yard (pick-a-part, what have ya). The piece above the split should be a cap. From looking at it, it should fold up, so separates at the split. Use a small, thin screwdriver to pry up on it at the split (a thin knife might work well, too). Once the cap is moved up, you'll find a large screw underneath of it. Unscrew it from both ends and it will come off readily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:29:53.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:18:05.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Use Coarse Grip Tape&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although your pedals may be beginning to wear out, I have found that even new pedals can sometimes be slippery depending on what type of shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply non-slip tape to your pedals, it will make them much less slippery. This tape is widely available, commonly used in RVs, and is basically adhesive 80-grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://duckbrand.com/products/paint-diy-tapes/tread-grip-tapes/tread-tape/black-2-in-x-5-yd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Tread Tape from Duck Brand Tape&quot;&gt;Tread Tape (updated link)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIHuq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gIHuq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="12132" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T18:09:50.163" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T18:09:50.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2015-09-26T23:25:02.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question, but as someone already gave an answer yesterday, here I go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car doesn't have a milage display, and it also doesn't communicate any information about its current fuel consumption via OBD. (I also don't know if this is foreseen in the generic part of OBD in general.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems, the app &quot;Torque&quot; takes the RPM, the intake air temperature, intake air pressure (all available via OBD) and the displacement (entered by the user) to calculate the air flow through the motor. Assuming a perfect air/gas mixture, the amount of fuel that could be burned is derived, and with the speed via OBD/GPS, the current milage is calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this milage is not always correct. Driving downhill, the current consumption should be zero due to fuel cut-off, but the app shows a significant number. Pressing the clutch, fuel has to be burnt to keep the motor running, which leads to a very low consumption. Instead, the consumption shown by the app decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to the conclusion that the app doesn't know anything about fuel cut-off. It just knows how much air is going through the motor and thinks the consumption must be higher at the higher RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another scenario one can imagine is that the app doesn't display the higher consumption shortly after starting a cold engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with this app together with other cars, but it seems it uses the most suitable sensor data. And when it's not available, it tries to derive this data from other sensor data. But this could lead to incorrect results. (Yet, the app does its best to display the milage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T23:25:02.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2015-09-27T02:46:00.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is almost certainly a case of a loose PS Belt and a simple repair on most vehicles. It's usually a matter of loosening a couple of Bolts and using a pry bar to provide leverage at some point and then tightening the bolts that would have been loosened previously to free up the Belt. Sorry about the crappy instructions but I am sure you will figure it out if you have a modicum of mechanical ability. I do often assume too much in my instructions and I do apologise for that. Get a friend to help you that kind of knows what I mean. Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T02:46:00.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21396" CreationDate="2015-09-27T03:12:32.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mechanic is providing &quot;Labour&quot; only unless you have otherwise agreed on some other arrangement which I doubt any Mechanic who wants to actually make a profit would do. A Mechanic will not often provide expensive parts Gratis. Your Mechanic will install your engine and guarantee his work based on the parts &quot;You&quot; supplied but you will need to buy superfluous parts such as Manifold gaskets, Tranny Gaskets, Spark Plugs, Various Filters, Injectors if needed, etc.. &#xA;Edit: I just noticed your edit and yes if you have supplied and paid for all necessary Gaskets, etc. needed, then YES he should install them as part of the deal at no extra cost to you. I would have to question his professionalism and Sanity should he neglect to do so!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:12:32.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19678" CreationDate="2015-09-27T03:41:04.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your Power Steering Rack is leaking at it's seals, keep an eye on your Power Steering Fluid levels please so that you do not run dry of Fluid at an inopportune time such as in an emergency maneuver situation. It would be terrible if you should happen to cause an Accident because you could not turn your steering wheel or got surprised at the sudden &quot;Stiffness&quot; of the Steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:41:04.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:03:54.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced many Power Steering failures over my rather long life and in every instance of Hose failure it was the metal pipe portions that leaked. They usually cracked and always on a bend or just before on the pipe and also always on the hi-pressure side. My latest leak is on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra which I have very temporarily repaired with a piece of Rubber and a sturdy clamp until I can get it in to be serviced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:03:54.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16480" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:09:52.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you want to do this? It would be relatively easy to accomplish but the Vehicle would not be fun to drive due to having to push the power steering rack back and forth with every turn of the Steering wheel. I would assume the Rack would quickly fail as well making things really dicey for safety!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:09:52.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15672" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:14:58.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and quickly. Get the problem fixed or it is going to be real, real expensive to replace the pump and maybe the lines plus the power steering rack when the seals, etc. wear out due to lack of lubrication plus it must be a bitch to drive with no Power steering!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:14:58.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15156" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:36:04.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding as to how Fluids get dirty in a closed system. There are several ways. The most common are simple wear and tear of parts of the closed loop. Seals wear, bearings wear, fluids may get hot and &quot;Scorch&quot;, Rubber hoses disintegrate over time, etc. All of these contaminates enter the fluid circulating thru the system and will make the fluid change colour and degrade the fluid to the point where it needs to be changed to prevent damage to the system it should protect. At 60K miles service was due but the price seems way out of line. I would have paid perhaps $80-$100 tops. The Fluid is not expensive and at max one hour of labour should have covered it. You got &quot;Taken&quot;. Next time go to your neighbourhood trustworthy guy. Matter of fact, go now, and ask what he would charge for such service. I think you will be astounded at the cost difference and have him tell you what is involved. Believe me, it is a simple process although it requires a specialised tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:36:04.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6171" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:57:04.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely have a leak. Get under your vehicle and check the PS hoses on the pressure side. There is a hose that has sections of metal pipe joined by rubber Hose. The rubber hose is for flexibility. Most likely it will be a section of metal hose leaking due to corrosion. As for changing your fluid with a Turkey baster, not ideal! Remember there is a lot more fluid in the system than what is visible in the reservoir. I would have removed a hose on the return side of the system and allowed the system to pump itself dry and then reattached the hose and refilled the system. Make sure to have some spare clamps and hose before you do that though or you may be &quot;parked&quot; for a bit as I once was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:57:04.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6143" CreationDate="2015-09-27T05:07:38.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot properly change your Power Steering fluid with a Turkey baster! Your Power Steering System contains much more fluid than what is in the Reservoir. I usually remove a hose on the return side of the pump and allow it to pump itself dry( a few turns of the Steering wheel will do that) then refill the system whilst having an assistant move the steering wheel lock to lock as is possible. I would have no idea as to the amount of fluid you would need as every system is different but I would have at least a quart to 1.5 quarts(2 liters)on hand. You can never have too much but too little may spell danger(so to speak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T05:07:38.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2015-09-27T05:32:14.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is your PS Fluid reservoir. Brake Fluid Reservoirs do not have the dipstick type of cap you have displayed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T05:32:14.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T07:03:34.043" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you guys know if diagnostic software is capable of telling me everything going on in each cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T00:57:23.143" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T00:57:23.143" Title="Help finding diagnostic software?" Tags="|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-09-28T17:32:51.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16480" CreationDate="2015-09-27T12:13:10.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power steering hoses were never meant to loop in on themselves so you will most likely end up destroying them while making the switch over. Theoretically what you are asking is possible. That being said it's not recommended. The rack is geared to steer with power assist, 3 turns lock to lock normally. The car would be very difficult to steer with no assist. If you think it will be just like any other car with no factory power assist you are wrong. Normal non power assist is 5 turns lock to lock, a much different gearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T11:40:25.343" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T11:40:25.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2015-09-27T14:35:19.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by cleaning the throttle body. The air filter removes 99.9% or air particles. That 0.1% build up on the throttle plates over time. That buildup restricts the minimum air rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a car is idling not all the air passes through the IAC (idle air control valve). Some of the air passes through the throttle plate. The throttle plate is held slightly open by the throttle stop or there is a small hole in the throttle plate. (what ever you do DON'T mess with the throttle stop) When the car starts cold the IAC opens all the way to make sure the car starts. At this point the minimum air rate is not important because the IAC is drawing in so much air. As the car warms up the IAC backs off lowering the idle. At this point the minimum air rate becomes more and more important because with the lower idle the minimum air rate can account for 50% or more of the incoming air. While driving, when the throttle closes the car can't adjust the idle fast enough and the engine stalls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the AC on the car automatically bums up the idle. This opens the IAC possible far enough to keep the car idling. I'm almost willing to bet that if you start the car cold with the AC off. Then allows it to fully warm up without touching the throttle it will continue to idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the throttle with throttle body cleaner or carburetor cleaner and a tooth brush. Be sure to clean the throttle bore and both sides of throttle plate. If there are any holes in the plate make sure to clean then too. Finally, immediately after cleaning the pates start the car and allow it to idle. Treat the car as though it was flooded, push the throttle down as your starting it. The cleaner fumes tend to build up while cleaning and may flood the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T14:35:19.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21431" CreationDate="2015-09-27T16:13:08.453" Score="1" ViewCount="7567" Body="&lt;p&gt;My engine (Ford Escape Hybrid 2006) has gotten noticeably louder over the years. Not to the point that I'm concerned, but it has gotten me wondering why exactly engine noise gets worse with time. I've heard about piston slap, but if that's not occurring then what else? Do the belts get louder? Bearings? I am just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T23:08:58.977" Title="Why do engines get louder with age?" Tags="|engine|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21399" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:33:39.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case (307 series) the answer is &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt;. That's because LED lights to have to be huge to produce enough light to be similar to halogen ones and almost always you have to change the entire light-block, not only the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:33:39.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19742" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:57:13.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had same problem.  The issue rests with the Thermo Time Sw.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When cold the thermo time sw. completes the ground for the cold start valve to shoot extra fuel into the manifold.  When hot the Thermo Time switch opens the ground and does not allow this to occur. Yours, apparently is not opening the ground and the cold start valve is spraying fuel in when hot, in which case the engine floods and will not start.  To test, when hot remove the electrical connector to the Therm Time Sw. and try starting. Should be ok.  The hot start relay provides a delayed intermittent spray from the cold start valve when engine hot and cranks more than 2-3 seconds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:57:13.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T19:39:38.870" Score="2" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a 2005 Skoda Octavia (in Europe, if that matters) and I could use some help with pinpointing a source of a windlike whistling noise comming from the rear left door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The door has a double seal (inner and outer) and a standard single glass seal. The whistling noise comes from the very rear of the door but I find it impossible to pinpoint the exact source. The noise is directly proportional to speed and nothing else seems to have an effect on it. The noise is bearable up to around 80 - 100 kph but at higher speeds it becomes very loud and no reasonable volume of radio can overcome it (not that it would be a real solution anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask if someone has an idea &lt;strong&gt;how to find what seal/part is source of the trouble&lt;/strong&gt; before I start a shopping spree for any and all rubber seals money can buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4883" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T20:50:26.610" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T22:26:10.417" Title="Whistling noise from rear door" Tags="|noise|door|skoda|seal|octavia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:13:14.303" Score="0" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Accord 2003 V6 service maintenance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12400" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T23:18:05.927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T23:28:27.997" Title="How many liters of oil do you use for servicing?" Tags="|honda|accord|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:15:03.473" Score="1" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a misfire on all 3 cylinders 1, 3 &amp;amp; 5, all on the same side of motor. It seems more likely to be an electrical problem than coil packs since all are on same side. Is this a problem anyone has seen before? Maybe there is a shortcut to check power to coil packs? Thanks for your help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12401" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T10:33:24.907" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:16:04.890" Title="2003 Jeep Liberty 3.7 v6 misfire" Tags="|electrical|jeep|liberty|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21426" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:26:10.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way you can find out if it's a leaking door seal is to apply glycerine to the door seals and then drive around to see if the noise changes or disappears. If there's no change at all, the sound is probably not coming from the seal. If it is quieter, or changes tone or pitch, then there's probably a gap somewhere. By applying the glycerine to only part of the seal at a time, you can narrow down where the gap is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use any viscous fluid, such as mineral oil or dishwashing detergent, but those could damage the seal or be hard to clean off. Glycerine is good because it's cheap, very inert, and can be washed off with water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T22:26:10.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21427" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:50:42.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google even show the details as a separate break out now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=honda%20accord%202006%20v6%20oil%20capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=honda%20accord%202006%20v6%20oil%20capacity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qwe7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qwe7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Search result&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T23:28:27.997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T23:28:27.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21422" CreationDate="2015-09-27T23:08:58.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it that you're referring to the noise of the engine in the engine bay rather than the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm personally still amazed by the number of parts that go together to form an engine (and a car in general). Over time of course, almost all of these parts will wear. Serpentine belts will wear. Non OEM air intakes can be very loud (modifications are often not wife-acceptable). Timing belts will wear and extend, putting camshaft timing out. Timing chains will also do the same, creating more noise especially if the tensioner is not working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most of the noise is usually generated by the valvetrain. It tends to go out of adjustment over time and will be the noisiest when it is cold - which is usually when you decide to inspect the engine. I would check to see whether your vehicle requires a valve adjustment if it seems excessively noisy. I rebuilt an inline six cylinder Ford engine once and the valvetrain went completely off 2 weeks later. The noise was incredibly loud when driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T23:08:58.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21428" CreationDate="2015-09-28T01:47:34.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coils have a 3 wire connector. Power Ground and signal. Check the power and ground with a test light. The best thing to do is to use a spark tester and pull each coil one at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a worst case scenario, i have seen a problem like this. The Jeep Liberty had snapped off the caps holding the camshaft in place, on one bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T01:47:34.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21419" CreationDate="2015-09-28T06:50:25.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine control systems on most common vehicles do not have sensors of any type in each cylinder. This means that engine computer does not have the information to pass on to the software you seek. Some info can be deduced from the available sensor data. Misfire is required by regulation to be reported per cylinder, although it is not required in all circumstances and not all OEM's provide accurate misfire data. For example Honda's data is poor at times while Toyota usually gets it correct.&#xA;Some individual cylinder mixture data can be deduced under some conditions by the computer from the oxygen sensors on recent engine designs, I know of no OEM that attempts to include this in the output data stream. It would be very helpful if they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some light aircraft have individual cylinder and/or exhaust gas temperature sensors that can be used for indirect fuel mixture estimates. Parts of this system could be adapted for automotive use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T06:50:25.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-28T11:25:35.767" Score="3" ViewCount="3022" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i know the rpm at which the (tachometer indicated) engine is running and the current speed and the engine capacity is there a where to calculate the fuel consumption of the engine? Need not be a precise one also. It can be simple thumb rule also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12406" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T10:11:43.373" Title="How to calculate fuel consumption?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21434" CreationDate="2015-09-28T11:39:53.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many other factors that need taken into account. Engine temperature, coolant temperature, air temperature, barometric pressure, etc... Some vehicles do the calculation and the numbers can be looked at with a scan tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for general fuel consumption. Fill the gas tank to full. Reset the trip odometer. Drive the car till the tank is empty. Fill the tank again to full and record the amount filled. Divide the trip odometer by the amount filled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T11:39:53.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21434" CreationDate="2015-09-28T11:53:21.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though There are many geeky ways to calculate fuel economy this one is one of the easiest ways to calculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill up your car's tank all the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your car has a trip odometer, reset it, or record the master odometer mileage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive your car as you normally would, and let your tank deplete to at least a half of a tank of fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to the fuel station and fill your tank again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Record the amount of fuel it took to refill the tank. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Record the elapsed trip miles or new odometer mileage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate the kilometres travelled from the trip odometer, or subtract the original odometer reading from the new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the kilometres travelled by the litres of fuel it took to refill the tank. The result will be your car's economy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if your car has done 200 km for half tank and to refill it takes around 15 liters then 200/15=14kmpl is your mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T11:53:21.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21434" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:31:16.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to calculate it without monitoring the OBD2 port. You can't just use RPM and engine displacement. You'll also need to know volumetric efficiency, engine load and air/fuel ratio. These things change dynamically, so you'll need to monitor them in real time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:31:16.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-28T14:29:58.420" Score="6" ViewCount="29142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5-6 years old Mazda 6 2010, 2.5L engine. My car simply won't start. I had this issue yesterday, so I called roadside assistance and they were able to jump start my car. I drove straight to autozone thinking that I needed a new battery. There, the person did some diagnostics testing and told me that my battery was ok, but my alternator was bad. I asked him if he was sure, and he said that he was fully certain of it. So, I went ahead and got my alternator replaced. And guess what, my car doesn't start again. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have certain other peculiar things going on in my car. My power windows don't work. They stopped working in conjunction with the battery problem. First, the windows would roll up extremely slowly, and now they have stopped working entirely. This is just with my front windows, my back windows work fine though. Also, for the past week, my car would not start immediately. It would make sound for a while before it would finally start. I could feel that something was dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pls help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12409" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T14:01:58.573" Title="Car won't start - replaced alternator - didn't help" Tags="|engine|battery|starting|alternator|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21438" CreationDate="2015-09-28T14:43:50.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your symptoms definitely shows issue with the Alternator or the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow the below steps to make sure the Alternator is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a multimeter and connect to battery terminal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your battery is good it should read between 13.5 to 14.5 volts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask someone to give the car some gas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On giving gas the voltage should read between 14.2 and 14.6 volts if its anything below 14 volts then your alternator might be having issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If its going over 14.8 volts then your new alternator might be overcharging the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are positive that the alternator is working fine but still your car is not starting up then there might be issue with the starter motor (which i am sure the mechanic must have noticed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On turning key if starter clicks but does not turn then solenoid might&#xA;  have burned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There can also be wiring issues or earthing issue or parasitic battery&#xA;  drain. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; should help you DIY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: You can always take the car back to the shop and tell them the issue , I am pretty sure they will look into it, free of charge.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T14:56:09.710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T14:56:09.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21325" CreationDate="2015-09-28T19:49:49.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Bad Diode in Your Rectifier Can Allow AC Current into Your System&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad diode in a rectifier will dump AC current into a system.  The AC current heats up the stator and the heat destroys the insulation and ultimately carbonizes it turning it into a low resistance brick.  Most stators are three phase AC systems so there will be three diodes in the rectifier that can potentially fail and allow AC current into the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, the additional heat destroys the insulation on the leads in the wiring harness that can cause a cascade failure of the harness due to heat degrading insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link regarding testing of rectifiers and stators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12767/is-this-the-correct-procedure-for-a-stator-test/25023#25023&quot;&gt;Is this the correct procedure for a stator test?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T20:43:17.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21448" CreationDate="2015-09-29T03:08:58.943" Score="4" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum and a friend of mine was changing the starter. Forgot to unhook the battery. And when the hot wire on starter grounded out it Melted the Negative battery cable until it caught fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had an extinguisher and got it out quickly. The only visible damage i can find is the that the wiring under the fuse box melted due to the fire at the battery. i followed the wires and none of them melted further then 1 foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if i could cut all the wires a foot or two back and put in a terminal plug like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shakmods-24-pin-Female-ATX-EPS-Power-Connector-PSU-Socket-Black-24-Free-Pins-/171290945833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shakmods-24-pin-Female-ATX-EPS-Power-Connector-PSU-Socket-Black-24-Free-Pins-/171290945833&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdpCe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdpCe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a suggestion on better connector I am all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To wire in a new Fuse Box without having to wire in a full new wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the car was off What is the likelihood that no other electronics were affected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way the fuse box and Battery are both in the Trunk of the Magnum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12419" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:33:00.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T00:33:00.453" Title="Wiring Harness / Fuse Panel Repair" Tags="|battery|wiring|fuse|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2015-09-29T05:50:32.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An overheated electrical connection has but one cause, resistance to electron flow.  Find the cause of this and fix it.  The test for this is voltage drop under load.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Repair first.  Replace all the burned parts with new high quality units, including the wire to the alternator. All bolted connections are to be torqued to specification. Consider reinforcing crimped connections with solder.  All connections are to be cleaned to bright metal.  Stabilant 22 will be painted on the faces of the bolted connections. Ensure that the bolted connections are not subject to vibration that could loosen them over time. Consider adding tie downs  for the wires near the fuse box if none exist.&#xA;2)  Now test the circuit. This will determine if the electrical resistance is fixed or is still present.  Using a high quality volt meter measure the voltage loss of the circuit from the battery side of the fuse to the alternator connection. During this test the engine will need to be running and the high power use vehicle electrical systems will be on, heater blower, headlight, rear window defrost, etc…  This value needs to be less than 0.1 volts, but a high quality circuit will have less than 0.01 volts.   If this value is low then repairs are complete, if not narrow the search by testing shorter sections of the circuit until the problem is located. &#xA;3)  To ensure the repair over time test the circuit in the manner listed above as often as you like, as long as the voltage drop remains low the repairs are holding. If not test for and repair the connection with the elevated voltage drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T16:46:18.543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:46:18.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T07:07:53.380" Score="7" ViewCount="20581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to understand more about torque when I was comparing two engines, totally different engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one engine ( Straigh 4 ) that produces 149 ft-lb at the maximum HP given (237HP@8300)&#xA;the other ( Straight 6 ) that produces 254 ft-lb at the maximum HP given (276HP@4200)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what strikes me is the I6 engine produces around 41% more torque than the I4.&#xA;considering that it has 50% more cylinders which in this case 6 versus 4. &#xA;and the RPM at which it delivers this torque is 50% less in the I6 compared to the I4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering, is there something I am missing? lets say if the I4 engine was redesigned with added cylinders, say 6 cylinders (2 more cylinders) would it operate at the same RPM? e.g.8300? or will that figure drop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12421" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:14:11.133" Title="What is the effect of adding more cylinders to an engine design?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21444" CreationDate="2015-09-29T07:36:05.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get some insulated crimp butt connectors and a good quality crimp tool to ensure you get a good connection.  Ensure you use wire thick enough to match the existing wire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like these - &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/0534648/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/0534648/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3djRw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3djRw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a tool similar to this - &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-crimpers/4992313/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-crimpers/4992313/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFWee.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFWee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stagger them at different positions along the wires, you wont have a problem with a large bulge of connectors all totgether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively if you are able, individually soldering and heat shrink insulating each wire will give the best possible connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:17:36.167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:17:36.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21458" CreationDate="2015-09-29T07:53:19.020" Score="4" ViewCount="11273" Body="&lt;p&gt;First post and I'm flummoxed. I have an 2009 Lexus RX350 AWD. At speeds of 70-75 one can feel the steering wheel vibrate fast. At 80mph(for testing purposes) it largely disappears. Back down to 65 the vibration in the steering dissapates greatly but one can still feel the front wheels shake. &#xA;I've done the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New tires. I had them rebalanced three times. A fourth time at an independent shop. No improvement. Went back to the original store and had them put on two new front tires on the off chance it might be a bad set of tires. Had them road force balance them too. No improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced rotors, brakes, entire front strut assembly along with lower ball joints. Also replaced steering column.&#xA;Alignment done after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it for a drive today and no improvement. Full disclosure: My mechanic at the outset said I didn't need new ball joint or struts as the whole suspension looked new almost. &#xA;So I'm stuck as he is too. Not sure what to do without throwing money at this problem. Did the 12-6 &amp;amp; 9-3 tire test and the wheels don't jiggle or move at all.&#xA;Could it be a bad set of rotors? This didn't happen while I had my old tires &amp;amp; rotors on them prior to replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12422" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T03:25:14.803" Title="High speed steering &amp; wheel vibration" Tags="|steering|vibration|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21455" CreationDate="2015-09-29T08:58:12.477" Score="10" ViewCount="21652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a rich mixture is more fuel added than air in the ratio required (14.7:1), but how can it affect anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, if fuel is added but with no air it can't combust, so how can that affect the ease of starting an engine when cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it isn't burning fuel inside, does it evaporate and expand? Or what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T18:03:23.103" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T07:29:33.650" Title="Why is cold-start fuel mixture enrichment necessary?" Tags="|engine|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21447" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:04:07.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RPM at which an engine produces its maximum torque is mostly dictated by the design of the intake and exhaust runners, as well as the camshaft profile. It's not really to do with how many cylinders it has. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Although obviously more cylinders usually means a larger total capacity which translates to more fuel/air being burned and hence more power).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T09:04:07.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:31:43.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, the fuel won't evaporate properly, so what would normally be a correct mixture on a hot engine will actually be a weak mixture when cold.  To overcome this, more fuel is added when the engine is cold to give a more ideal mixture for starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T09:31:43.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:56:21.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing to remember when buying tyres is the bit that can be missed when buying cheap tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided that the tyres you fit have a sufficient speed rating and load rating and are certified for sale and use in your location, it doesn't matter how much you spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap tyres generally provide poorer levels of grip so if you're using the car for track or competition use then don't fit budget tyres but for everyday conservative driving, budget tyres should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T09:56:21.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2015-09-29T10:05:20.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues with cold fuel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold fuel is harder to vaporize (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21453/675&quot;&gt;HandyHowie mentions&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cold fuel is likely to condense on cold engine parts, making its burning harder, less predictable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So more fuel is added than necessary - using a richer AFR - in anticipation that a decent proportion of fuel will not be burned. In other words, during cold starts the &lt;em&gt;effective&lt;/em&gt; AFR is leaner than expected, so the mixture is enriched to compensate for that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The excess unburnt fuel is usually burnt through the addition of extra air (often called secondary air) in the exhaust, where the temperature of the combustion in the cylinder is sufficient to allow any fuel that remains in the exhaust gases to burn before reaching the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the Bosch Fuel Injection &amp;amp; Engine Management book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gasoline is less likely to vaporize when it is cold. Even if it is&#xA;  adequately vaporized, some fuel condenses on the cold parts of the&#xA;  engine before it can be burned. The engine requires extra fuel for&#xA;  starting so that, in spite of vaporization and condensation problems,&#xA;  the engine still receives a combustible air-fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T10:37:25.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T12:35:33.283" Score="2" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2006 Pontiac Montana and the dealership seems to have a done a pretty good job with pre-lot reconditioning.  The filters were changed, oil, and a new battery and tires were put on the vehicle as well as the warranty being fairly comprehensive.  I' am however hesitant about changing the transmission fluid because the vehicle has around 96k on it and I have no maintaince records.  I know that if I do have it changed that it should be a complete change with the filter and not a flush but I just want to make sure I don't do more harm than good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2021-04-02T00:22:58.413" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T00:22:58.413" Title="2006 Pontiac Montana" Tags="|transmission|pontiac|shifting|montana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21449" CreationDate="2015-09-29T12:55:34.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried changing Tie-Rod Ends on both sides, and check if the Stabilizer bar as well as the rubbers that holds it.&#xA;Hope this works for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12407" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T12:55:34.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21449" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:01:29.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried swapping the front and rear wheels, you could have one slightly bent wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:01:29.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21447" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:20:38.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Max RPM of a engine is dependant on a ton of factors namely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mass of component&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your components are heavy like the ones required in diesel engines then obviously the speed at which it can rotate for each stroke will be less compared to a lightweight design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stroke&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple Short stroke = Shorter time = Fast rpm(Superbike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valvetrain&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intake and exhaust valves are not able to open and close fast then certainly your RPM will not be high, performance valves(triple spring) can substantially increase max RPM.This is why OHV config engine have low RPM even as low as 3500 which the OHC design eliminates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Displacement&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher Displacement engine will have heavier components , heavier reciprocating mass and thus lower RPMs. A 3.0 liter V8 will have better RPM than a 5.9 liter V8(old chevy engines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question:&#xA;Yes Addition of 2 more cylinders will drop the Rpm but the amount is determined by the mass of the piston and lot of other factors. Also based on the above factors at which Rpm it will produce the same amount of torque will also change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:20:38.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21456" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:38:16.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission can only benefit from a fluid and filter change if it is done correctly, ensuring that no contaminants get into the new fluid and that a quality filter and fluid is installed.  Generally a fluid change cannot totally change all the fluid since there is a large amount that gets left in the torque converter, so some recommend performing a second change after a short period.  Ensure that the correct procedure is carried out when refilling the transmission, this usually entails moving the selector between all the gears while adding the final amount of fluid whilst also making sure the fluid and transmission is cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:38:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21472" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:15:53.947" Score="2" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does not &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; happen but it has happened twice in last 6 months. My fuel gage is accurate most of the times but these &lt;strong&gt;two times&lt;/strong&gt; it was showing that there is 10-15% gas in my tank but my car stopped in the middle of the road and I had to call AAA with extra gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a potential problem with my gas level sensor?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, why does it work most of the times BUT these two times?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be something else is going on where there is actually 10-15% gas in my car but engine is not able to suck it properly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be a potentially big problem? I do not want to spend a lot of money if I do not have to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9620" LastEditorUserId="9620" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T21:55:41.543" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T08:16:22.623" Title="Fuel gauge not accurate" Tags="|bmw|fuel-consumption|fuel-tank|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21447" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:40:20.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Caveat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;Before proceeding, let's get one thing out of the way&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There's no such thing as a free lunch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Adding cylinders alone will &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; make more horses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine either has to be more efficient or it has to be fed more air and fuel. This makes it difficult to compare things like torque and power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this matters is that you have to hold everything else constant in order to be able to see the effect of changing one aspect of the engine's design by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not as straightforward as one might think, since changing one variable can have an effect on several key parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what happens when more cylinders are added?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming cylinders of the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; dimension are added, for the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; air-fuel flow rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Increased rotational mass&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just the weight of the pistons themselves. The engine now has more connecting rods, crank pins, cams and valves to rotate. Because there is more mass to hurl around, the engine is expected to operate at a &lt;em&gt;lower engine speed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Increased engine displacement&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; guarantee more torque or power though, since:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. Volumetric efficiency may have changed for better or worse depending on speed. This is where playing with things like valve timing and cam profile can have a significant impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. there is less air-fuel mixture to go around per cylinder, so there is a trade-off between the number of cylinders firing and the amount of go-juice in per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Longer crankshaft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This contributes to higher rotational mass, which results in lower engine speed, but there is another effect that could impact the rare oddball engine. A longer shaft has a reduced stiffness, which lowers the maximum speed which the engine can be safely run at (look up &quot;&lt;em&gt;rotordynamics&lt;/em&gt;&quot;). Most engine speed limits are set well below the rotordynamic-safe limit though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T17:40:20.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21475" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:57:48.470" Score="3" ViewCount="23472" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas cap on my 2003 Pontiac Vibe used to make a slight sound of &quot;pssstt..&quot;, the sound of some air either entering or exiting from the tank as I was opening the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two months ago, the gas cap stopped making that sound when I unscrew it to fuel, even though I still tighten it quite firmly after fueling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At just about the same time, the &quot;check engine&quot; light has gone up. The OBD reader says that the &quot;catalytic converter bank one sensor&quot; is faulty. But before I replace it, I want to clean the gas cap thoroughly to rule out that the coincidence of the lack of air release sound and the check engine light is not just a coincidence but rather a cause and effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5087509_clean-car-gas-cap.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; instructions for cleaning the gas cap. In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the metal part (the top of the gas tank intake) with a &quot;petroleum-based lube&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the rubber seal on the gas cap with a &quot;silicon-based spray&quot; to prevent the petroleum-based lube from deteriorating the rubber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are these instructions accurate?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll throw in a silly question: Would Vaseline-brand 100% pure petroleum jelly (the one used for baby diaper rash) be a suitable &quot;petroleum-based lube&quot; or is a car-specific product needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I use a 100% cotton fabric to clean the top of the gas tank, does this suffice to minimize the chance that I'll generate a spark that blows the tank on me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:36:36.687" Title="Cleaning the gas cap to rule out that tightness is the cause of the &quot;check engine&quot; light" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-tank|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2015-09-29T18:26:48.083" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of how a high-end computer, like a server or hand-built gaming machine, can run just as cool and make less noise doing it with several small fans in the case rather than one big one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AWD Model S has two electric motors, one between each pair of wheels in front and back.  The RWD Model S has just one, in the back, where the differential would be in a conventional car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine if Tesla had designed the P85D to have performance equal to the original RWD Model S.  Each motor would only have to produce half the power and torque of the original single motor.  The smaller motors stay cooler, though, so they run more efficiently (heat is the enemy of electric motors, and makes them less efficient, unlike internal combustion engines).  So the sum of the power requirements of both motors in the AWD Model S would be less than the requirement of the single motor in the RWD car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than making the AWD and RWD cars have equal performance, Tesla instead chose to make the AWD car &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; powerful.  The result actually is still &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; efficient than the RWD car, as you've noted; the engineers sacrificed some of the potential greater efficiency of the dual motors in the name of performance, but not &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T18:26:48.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T18:29:40.527" Score="3" ViewCount="1100" Body="&lt;p&gt;How difficult is it to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor and shroud on a 2009 Chevrolet Cobalt (LNF/SS)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop just quoted me over $200 for this. From what I can tell, the parts should be about $45 retail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much labor is involved? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the shops actually pay a higher price? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that I can do myself fairly easily? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good service guide/manual for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12432" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T01:08:48.810" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:08:48.810" Title="Replace 2009 Cobalt LNF Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor and Shroud" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|sensor|cobalt|evap|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21474" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:22:24.920" Score="4" ViewCount="62831" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to use a non-contact infrared thermometer to read the temperature of each cylinder at the exhaust port during idle, how high of a reading should the thermometer be able to handle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T13:50:03.617" Title="How hot does an exhaust manifold get?" Tags="|exhaust|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21470" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:06:25.383" Score="7" ViewCount="28007" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I fill up with fuel, there is often a loud hissing noise, as if you are opening a bottle of fizzy drink or something whenever I unscrew the petrol cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems like there are vapours rising from the hole, as there is a shimmering shadow from the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean my fuel tank ventilation valve is broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T21:55:04.153" Title="Why is there a hissing noise when I open my petrol cap?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|gasoline|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:30:34.633" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regulations limit the amount of unburnt hydrocarbons that can be released into the atmosphere, therefore fuel tanks on cars now have to be sealed to stop these emissions.  The noise you hear is air rushing into the fuel tank, due to the low pressure caused by the use of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T20:30:34.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T20:54:09.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install both reverse sensors &amp;amp; screen+camera. My challenge is with the power wiring. Both the screen and the sensors controllers need these wiring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power from the accumulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control power from the reverse lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose both controllers will be in the back so I'll need to contact single reverse light cable with the sensors &amp;amp; screen. So it's 3 instead of 1. Same with the accumulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there are here issues of overloading? Short circuit? etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:03:50.260" Title="Wiring both reverse sensors &amp; camera on reverse light - Short circuit threat?" Tags="|sensor|camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21463" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:01:03.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The level sensor works with essentially sliding contacts. These contacts wear out over time and crud, dirt and corrosion can build up on them. Did i mention that the sensor is submerged in gasoline. Some cars have known problems with level sensors but i'm not aware of BMW specifically having a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to spend any money this problem can be let go. You can use your trip odometer to gauge how much fuel you have. For example my car gets at least 300 miles to one tank. If you get to 300 miles then fill up regardless of what the gauge says. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gauge goes completely bad it may trigger a check engine light because the car won't be able to run evaporative emissions tests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:01:03.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21471" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:03:50.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A better way to handle this is to pull direct power from a fuse (or direct battery power with inline fuse or fusible link) and run it through a relay. Connect a power lead from the reverse lights to power the relay. When the lights come on, the reverse camera will be powered by battery power. The relay draws very little power and should not cause your reverse lights any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:03:50.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21468" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:13:26.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://depts.washington.edu/vehfire/ignition/autoignition/surftemper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website from the University of Washington&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Manifolds and/or exhaust pipes on some vehicles can reach 1200 degrees F. It is rare to find temperatures this high in normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your laser thermometer can read up to at least that high, you should not have any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; As pointed out by @Zaid below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...  if a cylinder is running lean it can drive exhaust manifold temps up to 1600 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; lean condition, but is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T18:28:20.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T18:28:20.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21465" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:36:36.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are these instructions accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions sound accurate to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would Vaseline-brand 100% pure petroleum jelly (the one used for baby diaper rash) be a suitable &quot;petroleum-based lube&quot; or is a car-specific product needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if I use a 100% cotton fabric to clean the top of the gas tank, does this suffice to minimize the chance that I'll generate a spark that blows the tank on me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of that said, plan on replacing the gas cap whether this cures your ill or not. It sounds like the seal is worn out and just barely doing the job. Cleaning the seal is usually only a temporary fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, @Zaid is spot on. This is not the cause of your CEL. I personally have no issues with going the least expensive and least time consuming route first, then following up with the rest. In this case you'll most certainly find your CEL will not go away and you'll end up replacing the O2 or the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:36:36.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:49:08.753" Score="0" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2007 automatic Scion tC that I just bought and I was wondering how do I put it in 4th gear or (sport)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12435" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:36:12.990" Title="How to get in fourth gear" Tags="|automatic-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21456" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:59:54.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I completely understand your hesitancy to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; change or flush your transmission. The issue can be that after a long period of not having your transmission fluid changed, the wear spots in the soft parts begin to collect &lt;em&gt;crud&lt;/em&gt; (for a lack of a better term) which is actually allowing the transmission to work properly. When you do a tranny flush, you wash away these areas which causes larger gaps in the soft parts. While you won't feel any issue right away, the transmission will start losing more and more of its soft parts, causing to slip more, which will ultimately cause it to fail. &lt;em&gt;At least that's the theory.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always a crap shoot to change unknown transmission fluid. Sometimes it can be just fine. Other times you'll inadvertently cause the death of your transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the transmission dipstick and smell the transmission fluid. If it doesn't smell burnt, you are probably in good shape. You can probably assume the transmission fluid has been changed before. If it smells burnt, you will probably want to change it, but do as you said and &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; do a flush, but rather drain and change the filter. This is a little bit more of a hassle, but should not cause the issues I described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:59:54.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21449" CreationDate="2015-09-29T22:20:10.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You more than likely have a wheel/tire which is not quite balanced correctly. The description you give points directly to this. It &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;would not be a bent rim&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, because you would feel this at any speed. If you can figure out exactly which wheel/tire it is through rotation (front to rear only ... and then only if the front and rear tires are the same size), you can have it spin balanced for a higher speed. If you cannot pin point, have them all balanced for a higher speed. Tell the tire shop (or the dealership you bought it from if they'll do it for free) what your issue is and that you need them balanced for a higher speed. They should be able to help you easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T23:06:20.333" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:06:20.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T01:57:31.577" Score="3" ViewCount="5837" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, here's the deal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-No lights, no noise, no clicking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Battery voltage reads fine on multimeter. Terminals are very clean and not corroded.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-But it won't jump start.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Headlights turn on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Fuses are fine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have googled myself into frustration, and am mystified. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2005 Pontiac Sunfire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Update: &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt; I tried to start it this morning and it cranked just like normal for a millisecond before going completely dead. No inside/ouside lights. I took the battery out on the suggestion of a mechanic and apparently the problem could be that my usual many small trips have caused the battery to drain. It's currently getting charged. Do you guys think this could be the cause of the problem? The battery IS actually due for a charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12437" LastEditorUserId="12437" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T18:14:20.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T02:28:23.680" Title="Pontiac Sunfire mysteriously won't start" Tags="|engine|electrical|ignition|pontiac|fuse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T03:11:25.480" Score="11" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bit of an involved problem, so I’ll break it down a bit and try to provide as much detail as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My main problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a rough idle on my 2001 Infiniti QX4. It’s not extremely rough, but quite noticeable. It doesn’t happen all the time, though it happens most often after going up a hill, getting off the freeway, or after heavy acceleration.The next stop after a few minutes of slow easy driving usually yields a smooth idle again.&#xA;Acceleration and all other driving is super smooth with no hiccups or loss of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other problem is warm startups are weak, as if engine was starved of air. When cold the engine starts up with no problem or hesitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The state of things:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New parts (all replaced within the last year):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel damper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel pressure regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel hoses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vacuum lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;idle control valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air filter is a K&amp;amp;N cone that’s part of a CAI and is mostly clean (can still see the color and metal mesh).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hose attached to the fuel damper reeks of fuel, but doesn’t leak fuel out of the port when I pull the hose and run the engine for a few minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel pressure regulator’s vacuum port doesn’t smell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don’t hear any vacuum leaks, and the CEL is not on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pressure and manifold vacuum are perfectly within range per the FSM and are rock steady.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cleaned the throttle body recently and removed all carbon buildup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only use 92 grade (per manufacturer’s recommendation) from Chevron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I’ve tried (beyond the new parts):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’ve swapped in and returned five other fuel dampers from various retailers including the dealership, and all immediately exhibit the same symptom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’ve replaced the vacuum line each time, and the smell is present after driving a few miles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ends of all of the dampers have the same part numbers and stampings despite being sold under different brands, so I believe they’re actually all the same manufacturer: SMP. I’ve contacted SMP and the dealership and both shrugged their shoulders and refuse to do anything citing that they’ve never received complaints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I bought a scan tool that shows sensor information and drove around watching the fuel trim. I watched the long-term because short-term was very erratic and hard to get a good picture from. For the most part, it didn't go any lower than -5%, except for once or twice when it jumped down to -7%. The 1 and 2 values usually differed by 2%, with 2 being the closer to 0. Idle when not moving was always 0%. Going up a hill at 3k, the two numbers both settled at -2.3%. With no throttle applied and moving at about 30mph, the numbers were between -1 and -3%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any ideas on what could be causing the rough idle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the fuel damper be leaking fuel at all? This seems like the obvious smoking gun but the manufacturer’s adamance that it’s not a problem and it not weeping fuel sans vacuum hose introduces some doubt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any ideas on other damper manufacturers to try or if I should? I haven't tried Borg Warner or Airtex/Wells, but BWD are hard to come by and are a subsidiary of SMP so are likely the same part anyway. Airtex/Wells have a horrible reputation from what I’ve seen and I’m afraid I won’t be able to return them as they’re sold online by a place I haven’t done business with. The fuel pressure regulator is also SMP, for what it’s worth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12438" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T16:59:30.427" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T12:53:22.140" Title="2001 Infiniti QX4 rough idle - leaking fuel damper vacuum port" Tags="|fuel-system|rough-idle|fuel-injection|infiniti|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21929" CreationDate="2015-09-30T03:15:52.933" Score="7" ViewCount="56009" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 years ago, after repainting my 1980 Chrysler LeBaron, I'm seeing many lines appear in the paint. These lines appear all over, but especially around corners, and much more on flat, upright facing surfaces, not really on the sides. This leads me to believe it may have something to do with being in the sun a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We repainted it the original color, with the original paint, and used commercial grade clear coat. The paint was applied by a friend whose day job is as a body mechanic, though not usually painting, though he had experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxing masks the lines for a short period, but then they become visible again after a few weeks. It only seems like I am seeing more and more of them. They are not scratches- there are far too many and I'm protective of things being set on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGtYV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGtYV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lines in paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to prevent more of these lines from coming? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to &quot;erase&quot; the existing lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12439" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T12:03:05.310" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T15:14:38.023" Title="Paint is cracking and showing lines, like dried mud" Tags="|paint|body|body-work|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:46:16.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cooling system leak, &quot;fan blows leaking coolant on the p/s belt, belt slips, belt gets hot, dries up, belt grabs again, more coolant blows on the belt, and so on. Or just leaks or drips on to the belt or pulley&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12441" LastEditorUserId="12441" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T07:52:17.097" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T07:52:17.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T08:22:56.897" Score="8" ViewCount="54880" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to remove the intake manifold from an old Ford 302 one of the bolt snapped off. As you can see below it is just about flush with the manifold (just below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to get this out? Do I have any choice but to drill it?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rv5MM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rv5MM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12442" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T14:14:23.920" Title="Best way to remove broken bolt from intake manifold (broke nearly flush)?" Tags="|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-09-30T09:07:31.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a Landrover Discover exhaust manifold stud.  I carefully welded a washer and a nut onto it.  You can see it here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_1999_Exhault_Manifold.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_1999_Exhault_Manifold.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I think the heat helped it come out too.  One thing to note however, is that the discovery had an alloy head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T09:07:31.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:22:00.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the best option here would be to use a screw extractor, which will involve some drilling. The steps to using it are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carefully drill a pilot hole in the bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;twist the screw extractor into the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left-handed thread of the screw extractor will have the effect of loosening the bolt as you try to force it into the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/SMrDYJvY0Ts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a 5-minute video&lt;/a&gt; on how to use a screw extractor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:22:00.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21480" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:54:17.987" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say 'no lights' but also say that the headlights work - I presume therefore you mean that there are no lights on the dashboard? This would point towards a problem with the ignition switch circuits, in that turning the key has no effect - do any of the other electronics work? radio etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:54:17.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21480" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:59:51.173" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on a 2001 Ford Taurus and after checking the battery, attempting to jump the vehicle and checking the alternator I decided the next place to check was the starter.  It took me about 45 minutes or so to switch out but as soon as I did it started right up.  You can rent different diagnostic tools from most auto parts stores, that helps sometimes...sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12426" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:59:51.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T12:23:34.303" Score="4" ViewCount="2956" Body="&lt;p&gt;Takes some time to start up Sienna. Have to take out the key, put it back, wiggle it around, eventually it starts. When it just started happening, we took it the Toyota Dealer and they replaced the ignition switch (about a month ago). Then it started happening again very infrequently but we could not replicate it when we brought it back to the Toyota. Now it is happening more and more often but we still are able to start it up eventually and can't demonstrate it to the mechanic on demand. They checked all they could but need to be able to replicate it themselves in order to fix it. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12444" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T08:22:30.647" Title="Toyota Sienna 2005 ignition switch issue?" Tags="|starting|ignition|sienna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21428" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:16:04.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a bad O2 sensor it can cause a misfire as well. If you have a bad O2 sensor the computer can't get correct readings and because of this the computer goes into a reset cycle and not properly regulating what goes into the cylinder. I've seen this happen multiple times and also are you getting a check engine light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12445" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:16:04.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21480" CreationDate="2015-09-30T15:33:48.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bad ignition switch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It could be an incomplete starter motor circuit, but this will not explain why the dashboard lights are not turning on, which indicates that the ignition switch is not going into the 'On' position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Independent of the starter motor, the fuel pump relay should also &quot;click&quot; when the key in the ignition is turned to the 'On' position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it &quot;clicks&quot;, I would suspect the starter motor relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it doesn't, this indicates the break in the ciruit is further upstream, i.e. the ignition switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle isn't jump-starting, so this would indicate that the starter motor circuit is not being completed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The headlights are independent of the ignition switch position, so that's why they turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T15:33:48.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-09-30T15:55:37.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would remove the remaining bolts if possible, and attempt to lift the manifold off enough to rotate and clear.  If it works, use the penetrating oil and heat as previously suggested then vice grips on the bolt shaft.  Caution on heat, turning while very hot will just twist off the bolt again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12448" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T15:55:37.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21534" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:34:33.747" Score="2" ViewCount="3025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a used car. I notice that on speeds higher than 80Km and when I brake, the car shakes. The shaking is very soft, it is not tough and it is not every time. I noticed it twice on a 2 hours journey on the high way. The brake pads are new, the brake disks are new, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one knows what is that? and is it dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12240" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T17:45:53.237" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:45:53.237" Title="Car shaking when braking" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|vibration|shaking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:40:14.433" Score="4" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start, I know nothing about cars aside from how to drive them. I have a pre owned 2004 ford taurus with 60000 miles. Recently, it has been making a screeching noise when I turn the key to start the car, and fails to start. The check engine light has never been on for as long as I have owned it and it passed PA state inspection perfectly fine two months ago I took the car to a reputable mechanic who replaced the starter. The car still does the funky screeching sound. It is completely random about when it does it as well, and normally, will start after I try the ignition again. Today however, I tried 6 times to start it, and only heard the screehing noise. In addition, my car always jolts or surges when i try to accelerate, right around 40mph and 60mph. My mechanicaachanged the fuel filter (or something like that) and said it would be better - it isnt. I am a college student and commute, so I NEED a functioning car and do not have a lot of money to spend on diagnosing/fixing it with a ford dealer. What could be wrong with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T04:35:21.707" Title="2004 ford taurus - screeching sound when attempting to start the car" Tags="|ford|starting|ignition|starter|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21523" CreationDate="2015-09-30T20:25:44.747" Score="2" ViewCount="6227" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer - 4.3 L Vortec V6 (vin W with PCM)&lt;/strong&gt; - 230,000 miles original owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed my IAC Valve today, and coincidentally, my HVAC started blowing out of the defroster and floor no matter where I put the HVAC selector or fan switches.  This happens in all modes, AC, Heat, Vent, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how this is related to my IAC Valve, but I put the old one back and the HVAC problem continues to be present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar problem in the past where it was intermittent and replacing the HVAC control switch fixed it.  This time, the HVAC control switch was just replaced a couple months ago with a genuine AC/Delco part and it &lt;strong&gt;was working perfectly until today&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, immediately after changing the IAC Valve, I can only get air to blow out the defroster and floor simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a lot of work on the car over the summer so I remember the recent vacuum readings.  I checked the engine vacuum today and it's measuring the same as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked vacuum lines and intake manifold for leaks by spraying carb cleaner at these areas.  There are no leaks and the engine is running fine... actually running better after changing the IAC Valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing the HVAC to always blow out of the defroster and floor?  I've ruled out the IAC Valve replacement as coincidence since swapping with the old IAC made no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the IAC Valve on this vehicle involves two small screws and one electrical connector.  NO vacuum lines are involved with this or located nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qalPV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qalPV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out the dash panel and could hear hissing at the HVAC Control Switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugged the vacuum line assembly from the switch and measured vacuum on the source line.  It's measuring the same as engine vacuum, so I can rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I manually applied a vacuum via pump to each line(s) while following the vacuum line schematic.  I was able to get the heater, defroster, and vents to operate independently this way, ruling out all actuators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the vacuum lines were hooked back to the switch, I was also able to get the Bi-level A/C, Defroster and Heater working properly by holding the connector on the switch a certain way to stop the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is seemingly impossible to determine is whether the leak is coming from my &quot;new&quot; switch which was replaced last summer and working fine, or from the rubber connector assembly, which is factory original.  Not sure how often these connectors fail or if they can even be replaced.  What makes it difficult to diagnose is the fact that the switch assembly itself is clipped and stacked sections that have some play.  So not sure if movement within the switch or movement within the connector is changing the amount of the leak... I just know that moving these around affects the operation greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a stethoscope I made from some tubing, I determined the vacuum leak is coming from inside the &quot;new&quot; HVAC control switch, which was only installed just two months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T22:56:26.200" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T00:32:50.603" Title="HVAC blowing out of defroster and floor" Tags="|chevrolet|hvac|blazer|s10|vacuum|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-09-30T20:30:40.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the hole in the intake is not threaded and the bolt goes through the manifold and threads in to the head. If that is the case you should be able to pull the manifold off and then address the stuck bolt separately. A good soak with PB Blaster always helps and the previously mentioned trick where you weld a nut on to the top of the broken bolt works surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T20:30:40.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:19:37.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#2564a22/=z61sh4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; heavy duty spline style screw extractors should do the trick.  These spline ones are the only screw extractors I've ever had good luck with.  I've broken just about every type of screw extractors you can think of (cheap and expensive ones of various styles) and these are the only ones I've found to be worth a damn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did break one of these once, but I put a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of torque on it and it wasn't real deep in the bolt.  I still have the majority of the shaft and it's still useable :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T21:19:37.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T22:55:59.450" Score="2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back wheel on the passenger side of the blazer is getting very hot, does not make any noise. The brake rotor the hub and the outside of the wheel will be hot after about 3 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12453" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T23:51:37.970" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:41:31.117" Title="I have a 1999 chevy blazer back wheel getting hot" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|troubleshooting|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21495" CreationDate="2015-09-30T23:04:42.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of an issue with some GM models but I am not sure if it goes back to 95's. On some models if the battery is disconnected the HVAC blend door can fail. Apparently when the battery is reconnected the blend door attempts to home itself. This involves the door moving to the extremes of all open and all closed. In some cases the servo seizes.  Can you hear or feel the door move when move the selector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T23:04:42.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21509" CreationDate="2015-10-01T00:31:33.150" Score="3" ViewCount="13936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 F150 160k miles and all of the warning lights came on (Check engine,  ABS, low tire, parking brake, 4x4 Hi and 4x4 Low from what I remember). The odometer was just a blank green screen.  I turned the truck off and the radio didn't turn off like it normally does when I open the door.  After turning it on and of a few times it was fixed.  This is the first time it happened sobe I bought it a month and a half ago from a big dealership,  but it has so many miles they sold it &quot;as is.&quot; I did get them to replace the catalytic converter 2 weeks after I bought it.  It's been almost a month since then and this happened. Also, I don't know if this is related, but I noticed recently my front windows are starting to be difficult when rolling up,  not down.  What could be the issue with the dashboard? I tried providing as much information as I could. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12455" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T01:53:51.563" Title="All warning lights came on, the odometer did not." Tags="|electrical|ford|f-150|pick-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T03:08:21.420" Score="6" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the moment car starts to the moment engine stalls, which is about 40 - 60 seconds, fuel pressure is always above 50 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely conclude stalling is not caused by fuel system problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also changed battery and alternator and the replacements did not solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I check for? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:12:35.120" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T23:02:55.373" Title="1993 Merc 300SE always stalling soon after startup, fuel pressure tests &gt; 50psi" Tags="|fuel-system|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-10-01T05:10:57.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peter &amp;amp; Fred are the only ones who are giving good advice here (surprisingly not being upvoted?). I'm pretty sure that on a 302, if you remove the rest of the manifold bolts, the manifold will lift straight off, and there will be 3/4&quot; of bolt sticking out. Clamp on to this with a large set of vice-grips, and turn the bolt out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vice-grips slip, clamp them on a little tighter, and hit their handle with a hammer such that they turn counterclockwise. The impact action may work better than just turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that this will work, but if not then welding a nut to the shaft of the bolt will be a lot easier with the manifold removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manifold itself is probably stuck to the gaskets, so you might need to hit it with a hammer to break it free prior to lifting it off. Sometimes there is a protrusion in the manifold where you can get a prybar in between it and the block to pry up, without prying in the actual gasket area; don't be tempted to insert anything in between the manifold and the block; (ie. hammer and chisel) if you mar the mating surfaces the new gasket will not seal, and you will have a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12457" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T05:10:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-10-01T06:34:16.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bolt extractors should really be a last resort. The extractors are much harder than the original bolt, and if that extractor breaks off inside the bolt, you just made your job a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more difficult. Drilling through normal manifold bolts is cake compared to drilling out an extractor. The drill bit wants to drill through absolutely everything except the extractor, whether that's the original bolt or the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extractors can be nice if the bolt sheared off (e.g., you dropped something on the head and it broke sideways), but if it initially broke off because it was stuck in there really tight, the extractor isn't as likely to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to try the extractor, don't put a lot of pressure on it. Just try heat and lube and put moderate torque on it. The bigger of a hole you drill in the bolt, the better off you are. You can use a larger, stronger extractor, and there's less pressure holding the bolt in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11940" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T06:34:16.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21449" CreationDate="2015-10-01T06:37:21.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paul &amp;amp; Handy I Did as you suggested and I was hoping for the best. Front tires to back and back to front. Made no difference. I had them install the Michelin premiere a/s and the vibration ceased. Gone. VERY happy camper.  It's odd as I have the Continental control contacts on my wife's IS350C sports/ touring, car and they are VERY good tires. Smooth, quite, exhibit good grip and just a very solid tire. Wondering and this is pure speculation on my part, if they tried to make a &quot;sport tire&quot; an suv tire? My RX just did not like that brand of tire. Lol. Anyway, THANK YOU all who took the time out to contribute to this challenge. One for the books. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12422" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T06:37:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T07:56:16.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cylinder head has broken in a line about four inches long on the underside of the part of the head that the valve cover bolts onto. Can the head still be rebuilt or is it junk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12459" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:31:20.260" Title="how do I fix a cracked cylinder head" Tags="|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21507" CreationDate="2015-10-01T08:19:23.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to take it to a machine shop and have them assess it.  It's hard to tell if a head can be repaired just by looking.  I'm sorry to say that my gut feeling is that it will need to be replaced but you may be lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the machine shop they can assess it using techniques such as pressure testing.  It the crack is superficial then it may not be a problem and a simple skim may rejuvenate your head.  It could also possibly be welded up so don't give up all hope and start searching for a replacement just yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T08:19:23.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21502" CreationDate="2015-10-01T08:22:45.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the fault is within the instrument binnacle or associated wiring as opposed to the lights being genuine warning lights.  It sounds like a classic &quot;shorting out&quot; problem.  This could be caused by a loose connection or poorly installed accessory (immobilizer, aftermarket radio, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be inclined to start checking wiring plugs are firmly fixed in place.  Also look for signed of water ingress as rain water leaking onto the circuits could cause a short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T08:22:45.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21499" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:41:31.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Barbecue says, it's almost certainly a stuck brake, either the parking brake or the service brake (i.e. the footbrake). If you jack the car up (having chocked the front wheels first!), you'll probably find the wheel is very hard to turn by hand (compare it with the one on the other side, which should turn freely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the parking brake (most likely), you should be able to free it off by working the mechanism a few times at the wheel end. If it's the service brake, the most likely culprits are the caliper sliders - these can be freed off with brute force, and either cleaned up or replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T10:41:31.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T11:00:55.947" Score="1" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mercedes Benz Atego hit a cow and the right corner head lamp and indicator plus grill got damaged. I replaced the parts but now the right indicators have stopped working. What could be wrong and what is the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12461" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T22:17:12.770" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T22:17:12.770" Title="Mercedes Benz- Atego truck indicator lamp not working" Tags="|mercedes-benz|truck|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21511" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:30:24.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the fixture getting electricity? Have you tested it with a meter? If it is, your problem is possibly just a bad bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't, then you have a wiring issue.. possibly a crimped or cut wiring harness, damaged during the collision. In that case, you're going to want to track it back to where it is severed, and repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now that I read @PoissonFish's comment, this is nearly identical to what they said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:30:24.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21507" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:31:20.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer could depend on how rare the cylinder head is.  If a replacement is available cheaply from a breakers yard, then why bother fixing it.  If it is an extremely rare component, then I am sure someone will be able to fix it for a price, no matter how bad it is (within reason I suppose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:31:20.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6982" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:38:43.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend modifying your fueling system due to the extensive design that goes into these types of applications. The tank, along with the supply and return systems have been designed to not only accommodate 5% expansion space but also to adequately supply fuel to your engine as energy and lubrication.  In diesel applications, hot fuel is also returned to the fuel tank during normal operation.  This flow rate is less than the supply, but the temperature is higher which, like various ambient temperatures, causes expansion.  Since ambient temperatures widely vary between locations such as Canada and Mexico, yet the same manufacturers readily supply diesel tanks globally into various applications (on high-way vehicles/agriculture/generators/etc), regulations effectively accommodate these variables. Unless you fully understand your engine and all ancillary systems including the canbus system that runs your engine, I don't recommend modifying anything....Especially on an on-highway application that is susceptible to strict emissions regulations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12465" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:38:43.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:26:17.673" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2005 Jeep Liberty, the radiator had a pin hole for the last few months i have been keeping water in it, then I had the  radiator replaced yesterday and now i have another leak. I took the car back to my mechanic, and he told me that running just water has messed up the water pump. The water pump has never  leaked until after the radiator was replaced. Is it just me or dose this seem a bit fishy? i mean how dose it not leak one day and then all of sudden it starts after the radiator was replaced. I would just like to know if this is common or am i being scammed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12467" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:29:35.173" Title="can running just water ruin my water pump" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-01T16:31:04.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21517" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:29:35.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  Your water pump could easily have rusted out on you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the picture at the bottom of the answer in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/3575/57&quot;&gt;duplicate question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:29:35.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21495" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:03:47.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the HVAC Control Switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full vacuum measured at source hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;able to manually operate all three actuators using a vacuum pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hissing sound from a vacuum leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a stethoscope, I narrowed the leak down to inside the switch itself, which was only just changed a couple months ago.  It's being replaced under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changed the HVAC Control Switch and the problem was fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11163" LastEditorUserId="11163" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T19:50:45.487" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T19:50:45.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21527" CreationDate="2015-10-01T23:46:02.220" Score="3" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Escort with 113k miles. It's never given me any major problems before, except for the AC going out about 4 months ago (details to follow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past week while driving with the AC on, I've noticed that the cold air stops blowing and becomes lukewarm. At the same time, I noticed that my engine temperature gauge is in the red. I took it to a reputable mechanic, they did an engine head test and a coolant pressure test, saw no issues, and couldn't reproduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem has kept happening. Generally, I am driving at highway speeds with no problem. If I encounter traffic below 30mph, or switch to city driving, the car begins to overheat. If I notice the gauge in time, I can turn off the AC and sometimes it will return to a normal temp. (Though sometimes it will overheat even if the AC has not ever been on.) The car overheats to the degree that steam begins coming from under the hood in the vicinity of the coolant reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the AC, when it broke a few months ago it was diagnosed as a bad relay in the CCRM. I replaced the original CCRM with a remanufactured one (made by BWD) from Advance Auto Parts. I'm wondering if this could have something to do with my current problem, since I think the CCRM does much more than run the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12474" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:49:31.263" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T02:52:46.190" Title="Ford Escort overheats when switching FROM highway TO city driving" Tags="|ford|ac|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T01:11:05.490" Score="0" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its well known that using heat in a car is almost free (see for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8384/is-it-efficient-to-use-the-cabin-heat-in-my-car&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). It is also known that using the heat can reduce the engine temperature which otherwise needs to rely on water cooling. Since the water cooling has a price it is presumable that this would consume gas, possibly more gas then the cost of using the heat itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is whether its actually more gas efficient to use the heat in your car then have it off and if so how big an impact can this have on gas efficiency? How big an impact this is, is also likely a function of the outside temperature, though I understand its likely hard to get that data... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; After forming this question I saw the same possibility posed in an answer to the linked question by JuannStrauss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T18:33:15.997" Title="Does using heat in the car SAVE gas?" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|heater|gasoline|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21525" CreationDate="2015-10-02T01:39:58.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the heater has no effect on fuel consumption. Using the heater won't lower the engine temperature because the thermostat will keep the engine temperature constant. It may actually use a tiny bit more gas from the electrical draw because of the blower motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T01:39:58.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21524" CreationDate="2015-10-02T01:49:12.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A non functioning radiator fan could have those symptoms. In your car the fan is most likely shared by both the radiator and AC. When driving there is sufficient air flowing across the condenser and radiator. When you slow down the fan should take over to keep the air flowing. If it's non functioning it could cause the AC to blow warm and may overheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the car, turn on the AC. The fan should run whenever the compressor is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T01:49:12.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T09:16:38.693" Score="7" ViewCount="4760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently sent my car to the garage for its MOT and service. It's a 1999 Nissan Almera so I wasn't expecting it to pass without some work being done to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I got the invoice back it totals to £590. The list of actions taken includes replacing hand-brake cables, replacing rear brake pads and cleaning calipers and removing my drivers seat, welding washers and nuts to the seat base, bolting the seat base back on and refitting the seat. All in addition to the MOT and Service which are listed separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MOT and service and the oils and such one would expect for a service total to about £220, which I am happy with as that's what I sent the car in for, but that still leaves £370 worth of extra work that I was never consulted over or phoned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morally speaking I think it's ridiculous to carry out work this extensive without speaking to the customer, but my question is where I stand in legal terms. Does this fall under unsolicited services, or are they covered because I asked for the service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12477" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T09:55:14.350" Title="What repairs can a garage do without asking for permission if the car is in for MOT and service?" Tags="|nissan|repair|service|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2015-10-02T09:37:32.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In modern automatics, you should go downhill in D, not N. The reason is that the ECU/TCU is programmed to detect situations in which the wheels are driving the engine (e.g. when downhill or coasting to a stop) and to shut off the fuel injectors, hence zero fuel consumption. If you switch to N, some fuel has to be used to keep the engine idling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12478" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T09:37:32.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21528" CreationDate="2015-10-02T10:20:26.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the circumstance you describe, any work that is not included in a standard service and is going to be charged should first be agreed with the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully, the laws regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/about-us/how-citizens-advice-works/citizens-advice-consumer-work/the-consumer-rights-act-2015/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;consumer rights&lt;/a&gt; in the UK changed yesterday so should afford you some protection as they include services (i.e. work which is purely labor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the morally correct course of action would have been to conduct the MOT and if any of the failure items would not subsequently be rectified in the service, contact yourself and ask how you would like to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd draw your specific attention to the following paragraph;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the first time, there are clear rules for what should happen if a&#xA;  service is not provided with reasonable care and skill or as agreed.&#xA;  For example, the business that provided the service must bring it into&#xA;  line with what was agreed with the customer or, if this is not&#xA;  practical, must give some money back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T10:20:26.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21538" CreationDate="2015-10-02T13:34:57.040" Score="2" ViewCount="10596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just inspecting some plugs and noticed that on each plug, one side was relatively cleanish, while the other side was dirtier and had built up deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would one side be significantly dirtier than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T15:30:43.573" Title="Plugs: One side dirty, one side clean?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21524" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:06:43.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's entirely possible that your engine is being air cooled &lt;em&gt;just enough&lt;/em&gt; by the rushing air of highway speeds. When you slow down, or encounter stop-and-go traffic, the amount of air just isn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be because of a fan failure, as @vini_i mentioned, or it could be due to insufficient coolant flow -- either because the coolant is low, or because the water pump isn't doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest hanging fruit is undoubtedly the radiator fan. If it isn't spinning, that's almost certainly your problem. If it is, does it seem like it's operating at full speed, or half-hearted? I've seen fans that appear to spin, but really aren't producing any air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fan is in good shape, check coolant levels. If they are sufficient, you may be looking at a new water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T14:06:43.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:47:39.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an air leak that can definitely cause roughness in idle and during acceleration. So definitely fix that first and then see if the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T15:47:39.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21493" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:14:12.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common issue that makes a car shake when breaking is warped rotors. With warped rotors when you break the pad and caliper slide side to side causing the vibration. Depending on how badly they are warped the vibration may only be felt at high speed but the worse they are the lower the speed the vibration will be felt at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution is to have the rotors turned using an on car lathe (if the rotors are not worn out). The next best is to have them turned off the car. The third best is to replace them. All of these solutions also depend on the state of the pads. If the pads are more than 50% worn and are all grooved then just wait till they wear out to fix the vibration. If the pads are almost brand new and not grooved then turn the rotors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T16:14:12.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2015-10-02T18:53:46.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;This may well be the smoking gun&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &quot;grommet&quot; is actually a fuel injector seal. It is designed to keep air out and prevent fuel from escaping the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is compromised then fuel can leak out, which will explain the presence of the dark stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick way to confirm this would be to turn the key in the ignition to the 'On' position to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rail. The pressure in the fuel rail should cause fuel to leak out if the seal is damaged or torn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A damaged seal can also explain the rough idle and shaking, not only because unmetered air can get in, but metered fuel can wind up not reaching the cylinders as well, resulting in a lean condition that explains the physical appearance of the Cyl #3 spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T13:08:30.873" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T13:08:30.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21531" CreationDate="2015-10-02T19:33:14.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running rich (like I believe you said you are in another thread), you'll experience carbon build up. There could be two reasons I can think of which might attribute to the carbon build-up just being on &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plug shrouding&lt;/strong&gt; - If the carbon build-up seems to be located on the same side as the ground electrode, the electrode itself may be helping the carbon to buildup due to shrouding the flame front when the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Direct fuel buildup&lt;/strong&gt; - (Note: I don't have a better name, so just go with it.) The carbon buildup area could be due to where the spark plug sits in the cylinder in relationship to the air intake path. If the spark plug sits in the path of the air as it enters the cylinder, it could leave a residue on the spark plug. If there is an excess amount of fuel which is not being burnt, this is the area which would be left with the carbon build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:18:25.890" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:18:25.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21380" CreationDate="2015-10-02T21:54:39.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced he old ECU ( SIRIUS 32N ) with another one ( SIRIUS 32 ) which is used before,  the car has not started the first two tries but have started normally the third time, the immobilizer light have not been blinking which means there is no immobilizer problem  and this means either the ECU is already decoded ( it is supposed to not be decoded according to the seller ) or the Immobilizer is a separate device that sends a confirmation to the ECU to start hence changing only the ECU won't create a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the old ECU :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AurL2.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AurL2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New ECU :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGjHs.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGjHs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9012" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T21:54:39.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T22:55:39.853" Score="1" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key, there is no response at all, the engine doesn't make any sounds like it's trying to crank, no clicks, or any other visual or audio response of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lights still work, as does the digital odometer, and the blower for the AC, and the power windows/locks, but the radio is off as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried:&#xA;A friend recommended jumping it off; tried it. No luck&#xA;I tried replacing the #8 fuse based on what I'd read online (that should be the starter fuse, yes?).  No luck on that either.&#xA;Then I checked the rest of the fuses one by one, and none of them looked blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what this could be or how I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12482" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T18:24:26.360" Title="2002 Stratus doesn't crank when key turned (radio is also off)" Tags="|dodge|starter|stratus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21540" CreationDate="2015-10-03T01:53:11.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the battery is supplying electricity to the car, but it's not getting to the starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn the key and there's not even a click, my first thought is a bad starter relay, but it could also be a loose wire, or a bad ignition switch. It should be pretty easy to check, have someone turn the key while you touch the relay. If there's nothing, not even a vibration, then the problem is the relay, the ignition switch, or somewhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the 2002 Stratus, but from my searches it looks like the starter relay is in the PDC, near the battery. &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tsmodie/2010-05-11_200007_fuse.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a diagram showing the PDC of a Stratus.&lt;/a&gt; It's from a discussion about turn signals, but it shows the location of the starter relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my searches, I also see lots of other Stratus starter relay problems, so this may be a common problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T18:24:26.360" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T18:24:26.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2015-10-03T04:38:39.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 85 Ford thunderbird with a completely bad ac system. The compressor was on the drive belt so I bought a smaller belt. Completely removed everything which was about a hundred pounds of parts. I got better gas mileage is the only difference I noticed other than more space to work in the engine with out all that crap in the way. Worked great on that car but all cars are different. Most mineke locations offer free a.c. system check and might be able to offer you the best opinion/option&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12484" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T04:38:39.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21546" CreationDate="2015-10-03T08:20:01.660" Score="8" ViewCount="27570" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has disc brakes in the rear, and the calipers have a small lever, which is pulled by the parking brake cable. (The parking brake uses the discs, so there is no additional drum or similar.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When resetting the pistons, they also have to be rotated (clockwise in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system is quite common for many car models, but I would like to know how this works internally, so can anyone describe it or has some good references? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T19:33:08.413" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T01:39:21.783" Title="How do parking brakes acting on disc brakes work?" Tags="|brakes|parking-brake|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21544" CreationDate="2015-10-03T09:39:18.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general answer to the title of your question is that in cars with rear disc brakes, the parking brake either actuates the disc calipers (usually with much less force) or has a small drum brake housed within the hub assembly. As an example of the latter, Subaru's have a small drum brake within the hub that works against the inside of the disc rotor which sits over the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you state which model of vehicle you have if you're looking to understand how a specific part works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T09:39:18.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21544" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:59:18.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The operation is simpler then you might think. In broad strokes there is a screw type setup in the center of the piston. One part of the screw is loosely attached to the piston, the other part is attached to the lever. When the breaks are applied using hydraulics the piston has some degree of freedom to move beyond the length of the screw setup. If the piston moves farther then the screw will allow the screw will rotate slightly to accommodate, this happens as the pads wear. To bring it all around, when the lever on the back is pulled it rotates the screw extending it. That extension pushes out on the piston activating the breaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T11:59:18.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21616" CreationDate="2015-10-03T18:31:38.133" Score="4" ViewCount="1647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an internet combo-deal to change oil and rotate tires at a shop in Sunnyvale, CA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now mechanic called me back and is telling me that I have to change all four tires due to the wear. And that they &lt;strong&gt;won't rotate my old tires&lt;/strong&gt; unless I get new ones for $435.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires aren't actually in that bad shape and tire protector is still clearly visible (I did not measure the depth though). Last tire change was a little more than 14K miles ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a legal or technical reason why they can't rotate my old tires? If there is a reason, then what is the condition to consider tires too bad to be rotated?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out my old tires have 40K mile warranty. I asked the tire shop how come they have become worn off so soon. They said that a tire inner edge has cracked for one of the tires. This raises question why they did not offer to change only two tires if only one tire is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T10:30:11.603" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T22:57:30.507" Title="Mechanic says that I must change tires with him before he will rotate them. Why?" Tags="|chevrolet|tires|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:12:07.000" Score="0" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 2005 Jeep Liberty limited. Roughly 140000 miles. No major overhauls or problems previously. However today when I started the car there was a loud clicking or tapping noise when accelerating and idling. The frequency increases with rpms and gets a little louder. You can also 'feel' the clock in the gas pedal when it clicks. The check engine light is blinking. But I don't know why. Assuming it has to do with this but it will be a while before we can put it in the shop. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12490" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T19:14:19.183" Title="Loud clicking noise" Tags="|noise|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21549" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:14:19.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flashing check engine light is letting you know that you have a sever misfire. Don't drive the car with a misfire because that may damage the catalytic converter. Have the car towed to your local mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T19:14:19.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4296" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:59:51.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a GB400TT about a year ago. Iv'e fitted new h/bar grips, new front brake cable and had the front wheel re-spoked with stainless steel spokes.&#xA;The bike is great to ride -handles like a dream, with it's light weight and punchy engine. I will get the rear wheel re-spoked this Winter.&#xA;No problems whatsoever with the bike. I always change the oil regularly and warm it up well before fast riding. The bike is well made with a beautiful finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T20:59:51.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21567" CreationDate="2015-10-03T21:44:10.140" Score="2" ViewCount="7655" Body="&lt;p&gt;My oil light recently came on in my car. I parked on the side and checked it. There was none on the stick. I added 1 liter and drove about 500m to my garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked him to do an oil change and to check if the car was leaking oil or if it looked like it was burning it. They found no leak so it look like my car is burning oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is can a performance air filter (commonly call p-flow) make oil consumption worse? My mechanic suggested it might be the cause to the oil burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: I would like a general answer. However, I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta City.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE : I can say that after returning to the stock filter, the car has not consumed oil at all (for well over a year - I think 3 oil change since). I might have been because the filter was more restrictive than the stock one as explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21567/3725&quot;&gt;Fred answer's below&lt;/a&gt;. But in all cases the consumption stopped when back on a stock filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T12:38:20.833" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T22:23:26.123" Title="Can a performance air filter cause a car to burn oil?" Tags="|oil|air-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21553" CreationDate="2015-10-03T22:00:28.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge there is no way an aftermarket air filter will cause you to burn oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T22:00:28.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21671" CreationDate="2015-10-04T00:24:03.377" Score="3" ViewCount="6634" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my car runs for awhile, it starts intermittently blowing smoke out of the exhaust, and from under the hood (near the turbo, but it's difficult to tell exactly where it's coming from). Problem disappears at speed (&gt;40MPH or so), and doesn't really start until the car is warmed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on my second engine. I had the turbo professionally rebuilt when the engine was out. In the current configuration, the oil drain tee's. One side of the tee goes to the oil pan drain plug (-10AN bung fitting in place of drain plug), the other goes to the front of the engine, but that outlet is &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; higher than the oil drain on the turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this isn't ideal and I'm looking at ways to route things so that gravity can actually do its job, but would a backup in the return lines cause oil smoke both from the turbo and through the exhaust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car runs fine - just obnoxious and embarrassing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yet again on the 06 Solstice, 2.4L with aftermarket turbo. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that this particular problem is why I (most recently) replaced the engine (cheaper than rebuilding). I'm getting the feeling that was not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting rid of the tee configuration and just going with a single line from the turbo to the oil pan, and installing a check valve in the line. I am not sure if this is a good or effective plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T00:31:12.423" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T19:41:01.690" Title="Can a crimped or improperly-routed turbo oil return line cause smoke?" Tags="|oil|turbocharger|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21566" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:11:43.047" Score="1" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother's approx. 2010 Scion's oil seems to get dark rather quickly as well. I've heard that darker oil means that the oil is doing its job and keeping the engine clean by bringing the contaminants into the oil. Do you think the older Ford has a lot of particles in the engine not getting picked up by the oil, or perhaps do the new Japanese cars produce more contaminants for some reason? I'm pretty baffled by this. I've personally changed and only ever put synthetic oil in my Honda, but I've been letting Jiffy Lube put whatever they put in my Ford. Any other Asian vs. U.S. etc. oil color observations might help me know whether this is a fluke or others are experiencing the same thing. Thank you. One of my theories is that maybe Japanese cars are built tighter so they are &quot;rubbing&quot; more, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12496" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T14:25:53.067" Title="Why does my 2012 Honda Fit's engine oil quickly get dark but my ~2009 Ford Edge's oil seems to stay quite clear?" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21661" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:26:08.893" Score="1" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;Irrespective of headlight switch on parking lights or on headlights&#xA;Car: Honda CR-V 07&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's perplexing is why the high beams are on when the switch is in the parking lights position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;New combo switch, same problem... Any ideas. Key symptom is high beams on even when only parking light engaged. Also blue indicator in dash shows high beams active even in switch is in parking position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12497" LastEditorUserId="12497" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T00:00:07.607" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T02:50:36.637" Title="High beams always on, except when lights off" Tags="|honda|crv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T02:56:31.143" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1979 Honda CB125 that was running consistently about 2 years ago. It then sat for two years and the battery was corroded so I replaced it. I've made sure the battery is charged (I have a charger). I also replaced one of the ring terminals on my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting no lights and it won't start (it's a kick start.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is something up with my wiring? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I look next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12499" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T21:56:00.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T21:56:00.643" Title="Fresh battery, no lights on 1979 Honda CB125" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|wiring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-03T14:58:09.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5239" CreationDate="2015-10-04T04:50:32.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your sub is 500rms, get an amp that can do that and more. 800rms and up to 1200rms. The more power the more you tune it down, then you don't stress the amp --- 350 rms to 500 rms sub = hot amp clipping = sub damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12500" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T14:05:41.500" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T14:05:41.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23663" CreationDate="2015-10-04T09:40:10.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/0/8/87-john-deere-lx277.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;John Deere LX 277 lawn tractor&quot;&gt;John Deere LX 277 lawn tractor&lt;/a&gt; that has developed an engine problem that has my mechanic and me stumped. The motor in question is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=10&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CEgQFjAJahUKEwjF782gvKjIAhWE6xQKHRZGBD4&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FKawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals%2FFH451V-FH480V-FH500V-FH531V-FH541V-FH580V-FH601V-FH641V-FH661V-FH680V-FH680V-FH721V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL--99924-2078-01.pdf&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGLGneN0OW6mV6vJu_9BJ8PLF6bSw&amp;amp;sig2=9r7bpAUzKyL1NMFF3dloBQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kawasaki FH500V&lt;/a&gt; (electric starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the engine is cool, it works fine, with no problems starting it and normal power output. Once the engine warms up, it starts to stutter and die, especially during variantions in power demand as in turning from uphill mowing to downhill (and vice versa!) or engaging the mower deck. When it starts to stutter, sometimes one can &quot;rescue&quot; it by engaging the choke, but not always. After it died, it can be re-started with 5-10 seconds of starter applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the engine developed the problem my first reaction was to checkintake  the fuel line, fuel filter, air filter and fuel pump. All of those were Ok, though. So I took the mower to the mechanic who re-checked the same things and also found them to be Ok. He also checked the carburetor with no problems found. The mechanic was advised by John Deere to replace the ignition coils (the motor uses two separate coils for its two cylinders), which was done, but without success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the mechanic seems to have run out of ideas, I started to fiddle with the engine a bit. One thing I noticed is that, with the air filter off and the carburetor intake in plain sight, one can see a fine mist of fuel being ejected from it while the engine stutters. So there seems to be air travel in the wrong direction, at least during some parts of the cycle. Something else that I noticed is that the intake manifold (part A in the second photo on Page 70 in the linked PDF) is metallic clean on the end for one cylinder but kind of sooty black on the other cylinder's end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From those observations I've deduced a working hypothesis, that something about the intake valve on the &quot;sooty&quot; cylinder might be wrong sending some exhaust into the intake during some part of the cycle. I've adjusted the valve clearance as explained on page 32 to no avail. The next step would be to disassebmle the cylinder head and inspect the valves themselves. Either related to improper sealing of the valve or valve timing. This, however, is somewhat outside my comfort zone, as I am just a computer software guy. Can someone with more gasoline running in their veins maybe advise me on how to proceed and whether my hypothesis makes sense or I am barking up the wrong tree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12502" LastEditorUserId="12502" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T10:06:03.103" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T16:10:14.950" Title="John Deere LX 266 lawn tractor engine dies" Tags="|small-engine|motors|kawasaki|lawnmower|john-deere|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T13:56:36.233" Score="2" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my civic has had a slight hesitation of the starter when first turning the key on an occasional basis. Yesterday turned the key and nothing, it didn't turn over. Plenty of electricity. 1 hour later it cranked fine. The next day I stopped at a store came back out and again nothing. But turned it off tried again and a normal start. Previously I had tried multiple starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12505" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T13:10:25.377" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:28:52.697" Title="2001 honda civic with starter hesitation" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21558" CreationDate="2015-10-04T14:25:53.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult if not impossible to compare how oil discolors in two different engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, both engines would have to have the same oil in it. That way the chemical composition of the oils is the same, they have same type and amount of detergents and friction modifiers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the engines would have to be driven in exactly the same fashion. Same amount of drive time, same amount of warm up time, same amount of cool down time, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the oil filters would need to be exactly the same, filter element, element size, bypass valve spring tension, etc... If the filters are not the same then at least be the same manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the wear level of the engines would have to be exactly the same. If one engine is worn more then the other the oil may discolor differently. The best comparison would be if the engines were both brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of these variables, comparing the color of oil is almost pointless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T14:25:53.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21553" CreationDate="2015-10-04T20:38:45.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;An air filter that is severely restricting air flow can increase oil use.  It is not common. If the air filter is restricted enough a low pressure condition is set up in the intake tube and PCV system. Oil is pulled from the upper valve cover oil/air separator cavities through the PCV fresh air hose into the intake tube.  If this is happening there will be liquid oil in the intake tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way air filters contribute to oil use is cylinder and ring wear.  Industry test have shown that a high quality paper filter stops more of the very fine dust that, over time, causes piston ring and cylinder wear which results in oil use and compression loss. The high flow performance filters let more dust past the filter. In this case changing to a different filter will make no difference, the damage is done.  Note that this condition can also result in oil entering the intake tube due to piston blowby. High flow filters are appropriate in race engines as they will be rebuilt often enough that the wear due to dust is not a factor. They are not advised in a daily driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T15:06:41.460" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T15:06:41.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16854" CreationDate="2015-10-05T00:20:55.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The offset of the hole is what's going to tell you which one you have. If you look at the images, Type A offsets towards single bolt (or towards the point), while Type B offsets towards the double bolt (or towards the flat). Type B is within the intersection of the two bolts. If yours doesn't go anywhere near there, you have Type A. You should be able to look at the top of your mount without pulling out the strut to tell this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SChqZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SChqZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T00:20:55.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21565" CreationDate="2015-10-05T02:39:34.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly have a Starter Motor problem. A small possibility is that you have a bad connection somewhere such as at the connection terminals on the Starter itself or possibly the Terminals on the Car Battery. A loose or badly corroded Battery terminal would normally cause other problems though such as a poor charging ability and therefore you would see a dead battery but this problem can be intermittent. Try having someone stand in front of your car. Turn on your Headlights. Turn your key as if to start your car. If nothing happens and your headlight dim a lot then you likely have a weak battery or a possible short somewhere. I am a DIY guy not a Mechanic but I would try this before I bought a new Starter as they cost &quot;BIG&quot; bucks for a Honda. Depending on the age of your Civic I would probably head to the Scrapyard for a replacement starter. Recycle/Reuse and most of all save a paycheck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T02:39:34.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21553" CreationDate="2015-10-05T03:08:42.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have been using this &quot;Hi Performance&quot; air filter for a long time it may have very well caused you car to start burning oil. Some of these filters really don't do much of a job of filtering as their whole purpose is to allow larger air flow into the engine which can only be accomplished with less filtering. You have probably allowed too much grit into your engine wearing out your piston rings. Just my humble opinion. A HP or two is not worth a prematurely demoed engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T03:08:42.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21559" CreationDate="2015-10-05T03:11:49.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad Switch in my opinion. Replace it as you have indicated you are going to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T03:11:49.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8748" CreationDate="2015-10-05T03:21:53.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just another idea. You said you went thru a large water puddle and then problems started? Where is your engine air intake. Many newer engines(after 1990) esp. have an air intake that is routed to the area behind the front bumper. In a high water situation water can be drawn into the engine. It is possible that happened fouling one of several sensors controlling air/fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12389" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T03:21:53.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21528" CreationDate="2015-10-05T13:52:34.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The garage should contact you before doing &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; work over and above that which you had already agreed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page from the AA might help you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/legal-advice/garage-bill-too-much.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/legal-advice/garage-bill-too-much.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you authorise a garage to carry out only specific work, and to do&#xA;  no other work without further permission, then the garage is not&#xA;  entitled to claim payment for any extra work done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If however it has done so, the garage may remove any unauthorised&#xA;  replacement parts fitted provided the old parts are properly&#xA;  re-installed on your vehicle. If for any reason this is no longer&#xA;  practicable, the garage should bear the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Citizen's Advice has this page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-car-repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/problems-with-a-car-repair/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you told the garage to do whatever needs to be done to fix the car,&#xA;  then you gave them the right to decide what work to do. You’ll have to&#xA;  pay if the work was necessary and the price is reasonable. Get a&#xA;  second opinion if you think the price isn’t reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you only asked the garage to do a specific piece of work and they&#xA;  did extra work that you didn’t ask for, you can ask them to undo the&#xA;  work. If this isn't possible, you should insist you only pay for the&#xA;  work that was agreed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest talking to your local Citizen's Advice or Trading Standards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T13:52:34.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21580" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:13:54.630" Score="8" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;If drum brakes consist of a several springs inside and outside the fluid cylinder to retract the brake shoes after braking, how disk brakes piston, that dont have any springs, can retract alone without any force pulling it back,can vacuum only pull the piston after braking??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:02:58.113" Title="How do disk brake pistons retract?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21579" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:08:52.563" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piston is hold in place by a rubber-gasket. &#xA;The piston does not slide in this gasket, instead, they stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when the brake is activated and the piston moves towards the disk, the gasket deforms a little to allow this movement without sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brake is released, the gasket moves to its original shape and retracts the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a little bit of sliding is necessary over time to compensate the wear of the pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this animation, which clearly shows how the (red) gaskets deform and retract the pistons, and how the piston slides when the pads wear out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epTU4.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epTU4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/archive/index.php?t-664263.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.mtb-news.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T19:08:52.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:20:43.090" Score="7" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I called an ASE-certified mechanic. He charged some $60 for the visit and $60 diagnosis and really he didn't quite spot on anything. Left me where I was  - work-wise , diagnosis-wise and  knowledge-wise. So I am reaching out to hopefully a more &quot;pundit&quot; community here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving up hill and suddenly at 2000 RPM , I got a CEL due to P1549 (Expanded to BOOST CONTROL VALVE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked all the vacuum hoses. They were okay this time too.. they've now been checked a total of three times. And all three occasions were related to excessive power for uphill or whenever I sought extra speed by going beyond 3000 RPM. Typically, it will happen after about 150 miles of  driving. I will clear it and continue to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turbo bypass valve is actually the forge kind of valve which has 2 rings or washers and a spring in it. The washers do not remain in the center but will fall down towards the inlet for the vacuum hose. I am not sure how they're supposed to be positioned in there and what their presence will make in terms of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I getting this error and what should I do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BOMK also - the wastegate is built into the turbo. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a SAAB 9-5 5 Speed 2000 2.3t wagon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12518" LastEditorUserId="12518" LastEditDate="2017-04-02T18:26:43.173" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T18:26:43.173" Title="SAAB 9-5 wagon throws P1549 Code (Boost control valve)" Tags="|cel|power|turbocharger|saab|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21179" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:35:23.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried unblocking them with pins, but they turned out to be really blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I simply bought some new mist washer jets on eBay. It was like £5, and I was going to upgrade anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply fitted them myself by hacking them slightly, by &lt;strong&gt;trimming&lt;/strong&gt; down the plastic stumps. Do NOT cut off too much, or you will need to buy some more as they won't stay in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then getting two small screwdrivers, opening the bonnet, and sticking the screwdrivers in the holes in order to unclip the old ones. Then I twisted the pipes off. Make sure you hold the pipe at the end, or otherwise you will tear the pipe, like I did! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then push the new ones in, and make sure they work before clicking them back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T19:35:23.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T20:05:00.217" Score="4" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck was in a salt water flood when hurricane Sandy hit New Jersey. Since then, the motor was replaced, ECM computer, shocks, ball joints, hubs, rear, front calipers, power steering pump, A/C compressor, map sensor, battery along with other minor parts. But recently my automatic transmission has become non-responsive. I could not get any gear to work. Right before this happened I started losing response as I was driving and rolled to a stop. I shut my truck off and restarted it and it worked fine until I stopped at a red light. Then I lost all response again. So after sitting for a couple of days with dry weather I tried to put it in drive and the transmission was responsive. So I tried every gear and it was okay. I was even able to power brake and smoke the tires at a standstill. I believe it must be electrical a sensor or relay or something. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12519" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T22:57:16.370" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T06:56:59.783" Title="Transmission not responsive - Dodge Durango 2001 slt 4.7" Tags="|transmission|dodge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21592" CreationDate="2015-10-05T20:33:26.880" Score="6" ViewCount="18643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see in some city car reviews, like the Citroen C1, that they have something called &quot;Long Gearing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is Long Gearing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the implications of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T18:05:58.570" Title="What is &quot;Long Gearing&quot;?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21589" CreationDate="2015-10-05T20:48:17.683" Score="9" ViewCount="91351" Body="&lt;p&gt;As winter comes along, I've always thought that revving the car would make it warm up faster, so the heating works better to clear the icy/steamed up windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does revving my car at idle to about 2-3k when cold (less than 5C outside) make it warm up faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does revving higher (like to 4k max) when driving, and driving in a lower gear than usual make it warm up faster? Obviously going to the redline when cold is stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any caveats to doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I meant also to use it for defrosting the car when it is covered in ice, as you can't really drive when you can't see! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T06:28:01.223" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T04:20:19.057" Title="Does revving a car when cold make it warm up faster?" Tags="|engine|temperature|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T21:14:30.713" Score="6" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when something goes wrong with my vehicle the check engine light comes on. I had an issue recently where the check engine light did not turn on, but the vehicle ceased functioning.&#xA;I read the check engine light comes on frequently for any emissions related problems, and thinking back that lines up with my personal experience, but my experience is limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types/categories of issues will the check engine light turn on for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12521" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:37:28.663" Title="What CAN'T the check engine light tell you?" Tags="|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21586" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:06:27.970" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Set of Standards for Error Codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that someone is going to come up with a much more exhaustive answer, but for a good start, you need to understand that there are MANY different standards for reporting &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot;&gt;vehicle diagnostics&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot;&gt;OBD II Pids Article on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. Think of your car's computer as only as powerful as the inputs (or sensors) that are wired up to it. Now, combine that array of sensors, constantly providing a gigantic stream of information (LOTS of raw data) with a limited list of events... individual error codes that can be reported. &quot;I just saw a cylinder misfire, because the data told me!&quot; Or, &quot;There's WAY too little oxygen in the exhaust.. the engine is running rich!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can't the light tell you?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a vehicle equipped with ODB2 is collecting data. It knows of a limited set of condition codes that can be matched up to a particular data event. If the ODB2 standard doesn't support a particular vehicle condition, the computer can't report it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there aren't relevant sensors hooked up, again.. the computer can't report it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But it's not JUST about the computer...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a huge difference between being able to report a condition, and being able to interpret exactly what the error code means. It could be a code that is a symptom of another code, and hence should be ignored. The codes, by themselves, simply help narrow down the issue to possible reasons. They're a tool in the mechanic's arsenal, but physical inspection is often required for a complete analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did the Secondary Air Injection fail (P04111)? Because the rivets that hold the casing of the fan together broke. The code lead to the correct system, but failed to tell me about the rivets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was the car running rich? Maybe there is a vacuum leak.. a brittle 10-year-old rubber hose finally split. The computer can't tell you that, because it can't examine the hoses, only the data being collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find out which diagnostic system your car uses, and you can check out the corresponding standards chart to see a full list of the reasons. There's a good chance that your vehicle is ODB2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T13:02:21.633" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T13:02:21.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:08:06.833" Score="4" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;My small utility trailer has sit here for more than a year. Now I found its lights don't work anymore. I used my multimeter to test the four wire harness and find the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect any other wire (hole) with the ground (hole) within the harness, I can read some resistance, ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect any other wire (hole) with the trailer frame, nothing can be read, no ohm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the ground hole with the trailer frame, nothing can be read, no ohm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then what's the problem is? No ground? How to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlX5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlX5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bD0mH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bD0mH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12333" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T23:27:03.567" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T23:27:03.567" Title="Utility trailer lights issue" Tags="|electrical|wiring|lights|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21585" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:13:21.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: Yes, you can rev your engine to make it warm up faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big caveat to that answer is that it is &lt;strong&gt;highly&lt;/strong&gt; recommended you don't do that. With modern gasoline vehicles, most manufacturers recommend you start the car and immediately start driving. The reasons for this are many, but a couple of the major points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car will warm up faster by driving it than letting it sit in your driveway for several minutes. Most of the moving parts outside the engine will not be warmed up by idling it in the driveway before you drive, they can only warm up by driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your car will be putting off a lot of pollutants for no reason as it just sits there warming up. It's a waste of fuel for little to no benefit except your comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This myth is a carry over from the days of carburetors, which did need some warming up before driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: Put on a jacket or coat and just start your car and gently drive away; it'll warm up in a few minutes. If it's extremely cold out, let it run for maybe 30 seconds before driving. Don't push it too hard until it has warmed up. If you sit there revving the engine to warm it up faster, you might as well be driving because you are going to be putting extra wear and tear on the vehicle by revving it too high while cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T22:23:28.190" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T22:23:28.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:29:35.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1942" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Pontiac Grand Prix Gte - My low coolant light came on so I parked let it cool down went to auto store n got the Dexcool antifreeze and filled it past the hot marker. Drove it on the interstate and it's still not running correctly? Now when I shut it off my temp light comes on? Did I over fill &amp;amp; if so how do I correct this???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12522" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T22:42:02.410" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T05:06:20.940" Title="Coolant light is on even after topping off" Tags="|engine|coolant|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21588" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:57:36.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, it sounds as though your ground is dead. Trace the ground wire back to where it is connected to the frame of the trailer. You'll probably find that it is corroded where it's connected and it isn't getting a proper connection. It should be the green/brown wire on the right hand side in the second picture. Disconnect the ground at the frame and clean up the area with a wire brush or some sand paper. You'll also want to clean up the wire connector at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A powered testing source (something which will light the lamps) might be of great assistance in helping you check the rest of the connections. You could also use a 12vdc battery source and just connect it up right to test the connections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector looks &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; corroded. Try some PB Blaster on the connection. Also, I've found once the connection is &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt; between the vehicle and the trailer, twisting the two against each other (back and forth a little) will produce a better connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this fails, you also need to check the vehicles connection which may also have a fault. You'd need to have someone help you with this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T22:57:36.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21584" CreationDate="2015-10-05T23:11:19.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long/short gearing basically refers to what the transmission is designed to do and at what RPM you want your vehicle to run at a given speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short gearing refers to having the gear ratios closer together so as to have faster shifts and get to speed quicker while using a minimal amount of torque to get you there. The trade-off is you have a slower top speed. In smaller, fuel efficient vehicles, this is less important because you usually don't drive them at 120mph down the autobahn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long gearing refers to having the gear ratios spread further apart, with the final drive (usually an overdrive) allowing for a higher top speed with less engine RPM. This gives you better fuel mileage in the long run at the trade off of usually having a slower take-off speed. This is the type of gearing you want if you are running the vehicle down the highway all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, both the final drive gearing and the differential gearing together will indicate whether a vehicle is long or short geared. There really isn't a magic number saying if your final drive is above 3.4:1 final drive you are running a long geared transmission (Note: I just threw that number out there, lol.) It's a matter of one transmission/differential gearing being &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;shorter&lt;/em&gt; than another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T08:39:39.177" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T08:39:39.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T04:27:33.017" Score="2" ViewCount="3570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought truck in April. about one month later oil pressure would drop to zero and warning message would display Low Oil pressure and warning chimes would go off. Local GM dealer tested with mechanical gauge which fluctuated same as truck gauge, so they changed the oil pump at great expense. Oil pressure still fluctuates erratically but at a higher level and warnings have not come back on. Problem is still there because the pressure is erratic and weird the way it fluctuates. Cold start gauge goes halfway up, once warm drops below 1/4 on the gauge, driving on the highway at 60 mph when you let off the gas and decelerate for turning, gauge goes back up to about 1/2 way, every time you let off the gas oil pressure increases until the new rpm is reached and held, then it falls off again. 2 shops have tested the sender and gauge and say they are fine, it is an internal engine problem. Don't understand why pressure goes up when decelerating but only momentarily. Anybody had this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T10:15:08.223" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T17:06:17.423" Title="Erratic Oil pressure in a 2005 Chev 2500HD with 6 litre gas engine" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|silverado|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21585" CreationDate="2015-10-06T09:03:29.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on Poisson's answer given your edit - Yes, you can, but still shouldn't ;) . By the time you've scraped the ice off the side windows the demisters should have done the job with the front and rear screens (or at least loosened the ice enough to make it easy to wipe off), at which point you're good to go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T09:03:29.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21614" CreationDate="2015-10-06T11:34:00.437" Score="10" ViewCount="4379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a computer systems engineer (we did a lot of embedded systems and some electrical at university) and I own a Suzuki SV650S. I am considering doing several upgrades to it (e.g. replacing the front with a GSXR one etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19556/how-to-learn-motorcycle-maintenance-theory&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; about motorbike maintenance and while that would be a good starting point, I'd like to get on a learning track that would allow me a) understand my bike better on all levels and b) allow me to do upgrades myself or with a little help from someone with more experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, there would be material to study on the modern motorbike electronics (fuel injection etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To be clear, I am interested in a semi-formal educational track with references. Like, if there was a &quot;do-it-yourself: become a mechanic&quot; course on Coursera, what modules would it have and what books/other resources would each module reference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12508" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T03:52:12.647" Title="How to become a self-taught amateur mechanic?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2015-10-06T12:06:08.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch lots of Youtube videos. What I found works best is if you have a specific problem and search for a video tutorial on the solution. Start with simple things like changing the brakes, then work your way up from there.E.g. There should be literally millions of videos showing how a four stroke engine works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T12:06:08.327" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:27:11.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure others can provide their own viewpoints, but here are my guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Define your objective(s)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know what you want to learn or master as it will set the tone for what learning areas to focus on, as well as what resources you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples could include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;general maintenance (plugs, filters, fluids swap)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;body repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine tuning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;problem diagnosis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cosmetic upgrades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electronic upgrades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting familiar with the design quirks of your motorcycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it helps to have real problems to solve or needs to address, as they force you to remain engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Equip your garage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need tools. I'd say a 3/8&quot;-drive ratchet set and screwdriver set are essential. Adequate lighting and space to work as well&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Learn by doing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting your hands dirty is a &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;. Theory and example videos will only get you so far.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ask when in doubt. Stay curious.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question the status quo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No question is too dumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Budget some time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrenching takes time, especially if you're doing this without prior experience; I remember it took me &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt; to perform my first ever spark plug change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember that this is not like software where mistakes can be overwritten with a couple of clicks and keystrokes; some things will be irreversible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;One project at a time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't bite off more than what you can chew.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll speak from experience. It can take months to execute a seemingly simple task because there are other priorities in life and only 24 hours in a day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Expect the unexpected&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Try to have a backup. And a backup to the backup.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car out of action for months because of a stripped thread in a timing chain cover or the absence of anti-seize? Been there, done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tenet is not intended to discourage prospective amateur mechanics, but the reality is that Murphy's Law strikes when you least expect it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:27:11.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16697" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:46:14.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible you got used to the feeling of the pedal with some air in the system. If the air was flushed out when the brakes were 'bled' this would account for the additional firmness you feel. As long as the brake booster is working and the brakes were installed correctly, the firm brake pedal is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your parking brake is another story. It is a 'self adjusting' type that should tighten up on it's own. See this forum post - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.g6performance.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15491&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.g6performance.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15491&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did the brakes yourself, verify that you followed the procedure correctly (ask what it is in another question here, or do some searching online). If you had a shop perform the work, take it back in. A barely functioning emergency brake is a safety issue, and shouldn't leave a shop in that condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:46:14.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21605" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:55:05.617" Score="9" ViewCount="4158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Ford Windstar. When I went to clean the battery terminals: the one with the RED cover over it was a bright blue color; the other had normal white corrosion. I do not know why the this corrosion problem would show different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, my car is not running at the moment, which prompted me to check battery, clean terminals, and make sure the problem is not the battery. At this point we are thinking it is the fuel pump, even though I put in a new fuel pump in March of 2011. If I would ask you to help me with this problem, is there a charge, or &quot;how does this work?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12531" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T20:07:44.003" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T00:02:57.603" Title="Why the different the colors of terminal corrosion on the battery?" Tags="|ford|battery|starting|windstar|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21593" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:58:36.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See this post, they cover several possibilities including the pickup tube, a damaged pickup tube seal, a defective pressure bypass valvue, or possibly a clogged filter screen located before the oil pressure sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-6-0l-v8/6-0-no-low-oil-pressure-after-new-oil-pump-install-t197761.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-6-0l-v8/6-0-no-low-oil-pressure-after-new-oil-pump-install-t197761.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:58:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21603" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:39:06.573" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Corrosion (once cleaned) is not a huge issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is just typical corrosion on the battery terminal. See this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXJOe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXJOe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: This is a 6V battery, but the same principles apply.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blueish color you see is hydrated copper sulfate. When acid vapors escape from the battery, it can cause a reaction with any copper which may be in the terminal. The other side is white(ish) because it is lead sulfate. I believe the reason why it happens the way it does is due to how the electrons flow through the battery, which can cause one or the other metal to react more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to find out more, &lt;a href=&quot;http://benignblog.com/2013/05/why-battery-terminals-corrode-causes-composition-cleaning-prevention.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this blog post.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T00:02:57.603" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T00:02:57.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21593" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:50:13.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the crank case ventilation. If it is blocked on the air intake side, a vacuum when under acceleration would suck against the oil in the sump.  When you let off the gas, the vacuum would drop and allow the oil pressure to increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:50:13.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T17:47:37.203" Score="5" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Honda Accord with 158k miles on it. This problem started over a month ago now. After parking my car over night, I get to my car only to find out that it won't start. After 2 days, it usually starts with a slight struggle. Any ideas as to what it could be? &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/v_z21hQpNuA&quot;&gt;Here's a link&lt;/a&gt; to how it sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12534" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T18:04:35.350" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T18:05:49.000" Title="Car won't start until days later" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21609" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-06T18:30:25.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T18:30:25.700" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T18:30:25.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21610" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-06T18:30:25.700" Score="0" Body="Medium sized car model made by Hyundai since 1985" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T23:31:40.707" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T23:31:40.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T19:11:33.083" Score="2" ViewCount="38398" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car had no oil in it. I went and got the oil changed, and it was running better .I filled the gas tank up and then all of a sudden the engine light started blinking and it did not have power ,like to accelerate and acts rumbly or shaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12537" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T22:36:28.613" Title="engine light is blinking now" Tags="|engine|hyundai|lights|accent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:07:16.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best solution for you is likely the Haynes/Chilton tear down manuals &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1844257673&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650S-Haynes-Service-Repair/dp/1844257673&lt;/a&gt;.  I have used these for years as an amateur mechanic and they have given me a much better understanding of mechanical repair.  Most of them include detailed instructions for most any repair that you might need to make, as well as pictures of what you might be looking for if you are lost.  They also mention specialty tools which can be a big help when you're wondering why a particular bolt isn't wanting to come loose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if what you are wanting is less self-study oriented, then I would suggest looking into some of the larger online colleges that have sprung up in the last few years.  A number of them offer online certification courses in different types of auto repair, but personally I would be concerned with the cost if all you are wanting is the skills to handle small to moderate tasks for your own vehicles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the tear down manuals and their periodic maintenance and go from there.  You will likely be surprised with the amount of things that are supposed to be to motor vehicles that owners are unaware exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T20:07:16.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:12:14.280" Score="3" ViewCount="2655" Body="&lt;p&gt;My radiator is spewing water when it is shut down. No hoses are leaking. Comes out of the bottom of the BMW and there isn't any over heating that the gauge shows.Can I still drive it if I fill the reservoir until a repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T21:36:34.230" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T06:44:48.333" Title="BMW radiator problems" Tags="|bmw|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21548" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:38:06.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a legal or technical reason why they can't rotate my old tires?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no technical reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know California law but it seems unlikely there's any law prohibiting him from rotating tyres that are not road legal. He's effectively warned you the vehicle is unsafe for use on the public highway and that should cover him against any legal claim. He is not responsible for what you do with your vehicle - you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether he can back out of the contract to rotate your tyres depends on whether there are any terms and conditions that you agreed to beforehand. It may be better to just negotiate to pay the normal cost for an oil change alone and take the vehicle elsewhere for an opinion on the tyres' condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T20:38:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:35:06.263" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving the car today oil light came on went 1 mile to store and got oil but was only 1 qt low put it in had about 3 miles to go got one mile when it died again pushed it to the house now it click sounds like starter starts to engage but stops with the click what could be wrong &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12544" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T21:42:08.727" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T21:44:49.760" Title="03 Pontiac Grand Am won't start" Tags="|engine|starting|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21608" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:36:03.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you first turn your car to the run position, you should hear a slight whirring noise coming from the back end of the car. Make sure your radio is off or you won't hear it. This is before you start the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have your fuel pressure checked when it doesn't want to run ... It could be that the fuel pump is dieing. From your description it sounds like this is the most likely scenario. Fuel pumps have a habit of being intermittent when they start to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was black smoke when you first get it started, I'd think you might have an issue with a stuck open injector which was flooding the engine, especially if it sits for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T21:36:03.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21617" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:41:00.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the charge on the battery. I bet it is dead. You are looking for ~12v or more, but I bet you are down into the 8-9v range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery shows good, you might have a connectivity issue at the terminals, especially if there is any amount of corrosion on the battery terminals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T21:41:00.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21617" CreationDate="2015-10-06T21:44:49.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil light stayed on after adding oil, then it could be your oil pump that had failed.  If so, the the engine may have siezed.  You may be hearing the starter motor attempting to turn the engine over, but not being able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T21:44:49.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T00:34:04.483" Score="2" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I smell fuel off the drivers side wheel well of my 2002 4runner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My check engine light is on and I changed my gas cap. The lights went out and back on. I think it's the connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a cover over the hose but how do I get the little brackets off without breaking them? It's got little round rivet like things? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has me me stumped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to buy new ones or what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12547" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:50:57.247" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:50:57.247" Title="2002 4Runner - Smell of fuel by drivers side" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|smell|4runner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21615" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:08:32.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue with BMW engines - presumably your car is about 10 years or so old, as what occurs is that the plastics used for the coolant overflow tank and associated plastic parts decay and begin to leak. I know this as I have purchased a couple of BMW 3 series, they both had small coolant tank leaks and the problem is well known in various BMW forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The onset will be small seeps but the real danger here is that there will come a time when the overflow tank simply fails. If you are driving, you need to notice this and stop immediately. Otherwise you will overheat the engine and warp the cylinder head. At best, you will be stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your problem has progressed past a seep. Replace the coolant tank as soon as possible. Either by doing it yourself or using a BMW knowledgeable mechanic. They will no doubt have seen it many times before and will be familiar with the part replacement process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T04:36:30.203" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T04:36:30.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:29:54.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive (D3) - This position is similar to D4, except only the first three gears are selected. Use D3 to provide engine braking when going down a steep hill. D3 can also keep the transmission from cycling between third and fourth gears in stop-and-go driving. For faster acceleration when in D3 or D4, you can get the transmission to automatically downshift by&#xA;pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor. The transmission will&#xA;shift down one or two gears, depending on your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is quoted from the Honda Civic owner's manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12549" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:30:07.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:30:07.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:56:48.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the other answers cover most of the bases, but I will just chime in as a &lt;em&gt;current&lt;/em&gt; 'semi-professional' mechanic and someone who worked previously as a professional auto mechanic for a number of years (before moving on to a less sweaty job).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can watch youtube videos, read diagnostic manuals and do lots of research about fixing and maintaining your vehicle, but the very &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; way to learn is &lt;em&gt;by doing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research helps, but not as much as some other professions. You need to know what you are going to do, but you also need the tools in your hands and need to build the motor skills to properly use those tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be wise to pop your hood and start ripping around in your engine bay; rather my best advice is to hang around a friend or family member who fixes things with motors and watch and help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I even attempted to work on a vehicle I spent countless hours shadowing a mechanic and helping out where needed. Also, I asked &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T02:56:48.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21630" CreationDate="2015-10-07T06:10:12.247" Score="3" ViewCount="2612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new Honda Vezel (Japanese market only).  It has this fanciful but useless and nuisance feature that shuts down the engine when I come to a stop and automatically restarts the engine once the foot is off the brake pedal.  As a result, the air-conditioning compressor is driven from an another power source in addition to the serpentine belt from the engine.  The AC is not as cool when the engine is not running.  I think the thermostat is auto increased by a few degrees, maybe to save battery.  Anyway, the engine will come on, even if foot is on the brakes, after a minute or so, presumably because the battery cannot take it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I manually switch off this feature every time I start on a new journey.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a problem with the AC. The compressor runs for about 10 seconds and then cut off, at the usual thermostat setting of 26&amp;deg;C. I have to set it to more than 5&amp;deg;C down to achieve the previous cooling environment (ie before I discovered this problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the compressor may be operating in the mode when the engine is auto shut-off, ie the setting is compensated by &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; degrees. I want to do some investigations. How do I trigger an auto-engine shut down situation with the hood open and no one is in the driver's seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12553" LastEditorUserId="12553" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T01:42:22.647" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T01:42:22.647" Title="How to simulate that automatic-engine stop feature?" Tags="|honda|electrical|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21628" CreationDate="2015-10-07T08:02:02.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it's a brand new car, I would be inclined to contact the dealership and have them confirm that the system is working correctly or rectify the fault at their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a car with stop-start and find it quite brilliant.  It's added at least 5 MPG to my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T08:02:02.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21628" CreationDate="2015-10-07T08:43:07.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;To answer the question in the title&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to fool the car into thinking that the car is in 'D' and the brakes are on (activating the brake switch, for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, given the fact that the car is supposed to be in motion prior to auto-shutoff, unless the car is jacked up and all four wheels are off the ground it is an adventure fraught with peril.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;have a second person sit in the driver's seat and hold the brake pedal while you investigate around the engine bay with the bonnet open.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;mount a miniature camera like a GoPro with additional lighting in the engine bay to allow you to monitor the internals while you drive around in various conditions. The video footage can then be analyzed later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;As for the AC...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a host of things that could be wrong. Possible culprits could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improper high-side, low-side pressures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fan(s) not working so heat is not getting rejected out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lack of air flow through the radiator due to blockage/clogging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty pressure sensor signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T08:43:07.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18351" CreationDate="2015-10-07T10:39:01.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't provide a solid answer, but I can tell you that similar symptoms have been described many times over on the Yahoo group ev_update &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ev_update/info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ev_update/info&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I have had similar symptoms on my 1997 EVC for several years as well. Only during hot weather as you point out. Search the Yahoo group for 'gurgling gas' or 'boiling gas'. It is often reported that if you stand outside by the gas cap and listen closely you will hear a boiling sound. If you remove the gas cap, there is a whoosh and the boiling sound stops. Then if you put the cap back on and wait for a few seconds the sound will start up again. Nobody has fully figured out what the issue is, but my own next move will be to replace the charcoal canister (when I get around to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12555" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T10:39:01.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21548" CreationDate="2015-10-07T10:50:20.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is plain silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotation is done on tires that are currently &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;in use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, not on new ones. If the shop wants to replace all four tires then there is &lt;em&gt;no point&lt;/em&gt; in having them rotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire shop has troubles realizing that tire rotation is moot for new rubber then I have to agree with @NateEldredge - you're better off employing the services of someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T13:06:27.630" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:06:27.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6253" CreationDate="2015-10-07T16:14:05.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening the door with the child lock on if the door handle on the outside is broken is quite simple. You'll need two things... a flashlight and either a 6-10 inch pick with a right angle or hook type tip or you can fashion yourself one out of a coat hanger. When making one yourself, make sure its long enough to fit entirely in your palm with about 6-8 inch protruding out. Bend the tip either into a hook or at a right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're going to do is kneel at the door. Lift the broken handle with the flash light shine the light inside the door handle. You'll see two rods. One running horizontal and the other one vertical. Hook the vertical one and with force pull up. Viola. You're only going to have about an inch or so wiggle room so when i say pull up I mean give it a tug or a yank. It shouldnt take that much to yank it up to open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12566" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T16:14:05.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:43:34.163" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &#xA;will start, idle, rev up to 6,000 RPM in park or neutral but as soon as you put it in gear and step on the accelerator it dies or chugs ? PS: Limp mode does the same !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12571" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T20:57:02.303" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T20:57:02.303" Title="My 1992 Volvo 940 Turbo won't Accelerate" Tags="|volvo|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T12:16:39.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21641" CreationDate="2015-10-07T22:40:18.507" Score="4" ViewCount="8299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the power steering hose in a 2005 Honda Odyssey.  It doesn't seem like it would be too difficult a job except for removing the line from the steering box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a Craftsman flare nut wrench.  I've tried pouring hot water on the steering box and dripping penetrating oil on the threads.  Using another wrench in the jaws of the flare nut wrench for extra leverage, I've apparently started to round off the nut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a suggestion?  Stuff I've thought of doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a more expensive flare nut wrench.  I originally tried using a cheapo one that I already had, but that one didn't seem to work so well, so I bought a Craftsman one instead.  The Craftsman one seems a bit stiffer than the cheapo one, but I'm kind of skeptical there'd be a huge difference between, say, a Snap-on and a Craftsman though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp a big vice grip onto the flare nut and use a pipe on it, I doubt it would grip as well as the flare nut wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the metal part of the line near the flare nut with a Dremel cutoff wheel.  This would let me get a six point 14mm deep-well socket on it, I think.  I'm worried that metal filings might make their way into the pump and damage it though.  I looked at whether a bolt cutter would fit in there, but it appears that it would not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastEditorUserId="7804" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T18:24:51.093" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T19:17:09.667" Title="Loosening stuck power steering hoses" Tags="|honda|power-steering|replace|odyssey|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21653" CreationDate="2015-10-07T23:14:39.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a chinese ATV with an engine copied from an ~2006 Honda Foreman 400 (a very simple 1 cylinder 400cc carburetor based engine). It's an exact copy with regards to parts. However it does not start easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't even know what information to provide here to make debugging this easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see what I am talking about here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5XOFfaw0OY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5XOFfaw0OY&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The video shows just 10 seconds of it, the actual time it took was more like 40 minutes.&#xA;It doesn't even make any promising sounds, I can just hear the starter turning and air being pumped out of the exhaust via the engine turning. The least amount of time that damn thing took to start up was 5 minutes and that was in the hottest weather in summer. In winter its like 1 hour or no luck at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually it starts when I give up, let the ATV sit there for a minute or so and then try again one last time. It starts up a few cranks after the first time I hear any promising sounds of combustion in the engine or sometimes immediately when there is combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried new spark plugs, a new controller, new air filter.&#xA;Choking the air intake helps (it has no choke of it own).&#xA;When the ATV starts, the engine will die if I do not keep the revs up. When the engine is warm, it will run for hours on end until it runs out of fuel.&#xA;The ATV started up fine when it was brand new in 2007, but the amount of time it takes to start the damn thing has slowly grown over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point the battery of the ATV was not enough (they kept dying on me), so I now use a dead battery as a terminal of sorts and start the atv with jumper cables and a large car battery. After the ATV has started, I remove the cables and let it run from its own generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12574" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:37:48.153" Title="ATV engine does not start well" Tags="|starter|carburetor|air-intake|generator|atv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21639" CreationDate="2015-10-07T23:17:39.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to use a good penetrating oil, Sea Breeze or my personal favorite PB Blaster. Wrap a small piece of rag around the fitting and soak it twice a day for 2-3 days. If it is still stuck, cut the tube off the fitting. I like to use a midget tubing cutter. If you cut almost all the way through it should snap if you bend it. This will minimize chips finding their way into the steering box. Then as you were thinking  use a six point socket. If it starts to move squirt it with more penetrant tighten it about half of what it loosened. Then loosen again, keep going back and forth until it starts to unscrew freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T23:17:39.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:01:06.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've turned it on, and turned it off.  I notice virtually no difference in performance or fuel economy between the 2 modes.  I get consistent 37-38 mpg in either mode and the air conditioning seems to run the same in either.  No difference in acceleration or any other differences.  I personally think it is a placebo.  It's a 2015 Civic LX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12576" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T00:01:06.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21639" CreationDate="2015-10-08T02:22:06.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there would be a difference between a Snap-On and the Craftsman. I would try to borrow a Snap-On, or Mac Tools wrench. There is usually a big difference. Vise Grips might also work but I would try the Snap-On first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T02:22:06.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T03:38:01.930" Score="2" ViewCount="3838" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alternator went bad a couple of months ago. I replaced it and the car started and ran fine.  During a road trip on Tuesday, the battery and brake dummy lights flashed intermittently and eventually my serpentine belt came apart, luckily at an exit. The tow truck owner led me to believe that the alternator failed, causing the belt to shred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I replaced the alternator and put a new belt on. I started it and it ran fine for a few minutes. I put the cover back on the motor, satisfied in a job well done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the evening, I started it, intending to run an errand... car started right up, idled smoothly for about 3 seconds, then died.  Now the car won't start.  Belt and alternator look fine.  Starter sounds a little draggy when trying to start it (just since it died), but car gives no indication it even wants to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12580" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T22:38:24.527" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T22:38:24.527" Title="Changed alternator in '05 Altima, now it won't start" Tags="|nissan|alternator|belt|altima|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T03:43:07.167" Score="-1" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2006 300 Chrysler V6 Hemi engine AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to start my car this morning, put it in drive, but it wouldn't go. Then I put it in reverse and it would drive back as well as neutral. So then I turned the car engine off and tried to turn it back on, and the engine wouldn't start at all. It would turn but the engine wouldn't start for about 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I put my foot on the brakes and put the car in neutral then back in park, the car engine started again, but still wouldn't drive once I was able to put it in drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me what's going on with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12581" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:36:42.543" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T17:40:06.907" Title="Drive no longer works on my Chrysler 300" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|chrysler-300|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21598" CreationDate="2015-10-08T03:52:12.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need to do it. Find a forum dedicated to your vehicle, you will find DIYs there, find one you are comfortable with and go for it.  Understand torque specs as well as what will kill you.  Nothing ever goes as planned so make sure you have another mode of transportation, and don't give up.  You shouldn't have a problem. Keep track of what you took apart using pictures, but the diy should cover that. Keep everything organized.  Don't study anything theoretical until you do one upgrade yourself on your bike.  You will be pleasantly surprised at how much you can do based solely on common sense and effort.  Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12579" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T03:52:12.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21651" CreationDate="2015-10-08T06:10:41.717" Score="15" ViewCount="169640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my first automotive AC repair, after the compressor in my 2004 Lancer 2.0 ate itself, cracked its casing, and blew all the refrigerant out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I did the repair &amp;amp; recharge correctly-- and the AC is blowing very cold-- but I'm concerned that the operating pressures are not anywhere close to what they are spec'd to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(During recharge, I added ~18oz of r134a, per the yellow sticker under the hood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before recharging, I googled 'r134a pressure chart', and found the following:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBEAL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBEAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;r134a pressure chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time, it was 82F in my garage, so I was expecting to end up in the middle of the range (both low- and high-pressure) for the 80F row.... 45psi for low, and about 190psi for the high side.  (When referring to this chart, I assumed that the target low readings were for when the clutch was disengaged, and the target high readings were for when the clutch was active.)&#xA;However, after my recharge the highest low reading I see (right before clutch engages) is 40psi, and the highest reading I ever see for the high side is 150 (right before the clutch disengages.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I be concerned about these low operating pressures, given my starting ambient temperature?&lt;/strong&gt;  This car is 11 years old, and so the computer &amp;amp; pressure switch have about 160K miles on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, AC appears to be working very well.  The compressor clutch cycles about 12 seconds on, and 12 seconds off.  (I'm not sure what's an exceptable duty cycle there.  Also I was parked in a garage, not running down the road, air flow through the condenser wasn't exactly real-world.  Of course the fans kicked on whenever the clutch engaged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static pressures (with engine off): 80-85 for both high and low sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case anyone has questions about my methodology, this is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old compressor, condenser, dryer, and expansion valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flush lines and evaporator with recommended flush solvent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed (all new) compressor, condenser, dryer, and expansion valve, coating all rubber seals with PAG oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added UV dye and 1.75 oz of PAG-46 oil to condenser  (compressor came pre-filled with 3 oz, and total required by manufacturer was 4.75)  (Mitsubishi originally called for 'SUN PAG-56', but after-market compressor called for PAG-46, so I used the latter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connected hi/low gauge set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulled vacuum to almost -30 &lt;s&gt;psi&lt;/s&gt; inches Hg, observed that level held for 1 hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resumed pulling vacuum for 1 additional hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed off high &amp;amp; low sides, detached vacuum pump, attached 12oz can of r134a (no additives)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pierced first 12oz can, allowed yellow line to pressurize.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burped yellow line @ the manifold to purge air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12oz can+valve+hose weighed 20.7oz at this point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opened up low side, allowed vacuum in system to suck in some refrigerant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Started car, resumed slowly-turning can... compressor clutch engaged for the first time pretty early into this step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After first can felt empty, new weight reading was 8.2  (so, 12.5oz discharged from 1st &quot;12oz&quot; can)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closed off low side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected yellow hose from can's adapter, then connected to different adapter already installed on 2nd can (at this point, I realized I had made a minor mistake, should have moved the first adapter over to the second can without disconnecting the hose.  But I compensated for this by burping the yellow line again.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial weight of second (partial) can+adapter+hose:  15.1oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final weight of second: 9.6  (so, 5.5oz discharged from 2nd &quot;partial&quot; can)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total estimated charge: 12.5+5.5=18oz (actually a little less because of burping and final contents of hoses.  I think this is OK because the service manual's specifications page gives an acceptable range of &quot;16.93 - 18.34&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="12281" LastEditDate="2017-02-27T00:58:23.820" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T07:23:47.827" Title="Low-side and high-side pressures lower than expected after AC repair" Tags="|ac|pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21647" CreationDate="2015-10-08T07:25:57.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly could be that the switch pack attached to the gear selector is faulty. That could explain all the faults, especially that the car wouldn't start without moving the selector, since this switch ensures the car wont start in anything other than neutral or park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T07:25:57.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21649" CreationDate="2015-10-08T09:10:32.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;That chart is not universal. You should be fine.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every model will have its own characteristic low-side and high-side pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why some manufacturers recommend charging refrigerant by mass rather than by high-side, low-side and ambient temperature values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have charged the system with the correct amount of refrigerant (which you have according to the tolerance defined in your manual), you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another sanity check is that the low-pressure switch activates at 32 psi, which is lower than the 40 psi you are seeing on the low-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if your Lancer is equipped with a high-side pressure switch but the same principle applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy your ice-cold AC!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P.S.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some observations about your procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pulled vacuum to almost -30psi, observed that level held for 1 hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me that there are no leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Added UV dye and 1.75 oz of PAG-46 oil to condenser &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UV dye is added if you want to detect leaks with UV light. Else it shouldn't be necessary. PAG-46 is the right oil for your car and is &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; necessary to since it lubricates the internals of the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This car is 11 years old, and so the computer &amp;amp; pressure switch have about 160K miles on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the Lancer, but on some vehicles the pressure switch is a capacitor where the refrigerant pressure controls the distance between the two plates, thereby altering capacitance and voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, the level of detail provided in this question is stellar. I'd consider this to be the golden standard for all AC-related questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T09:22:17.227" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T09:22:17.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21646" CreationDate="2015-10-08T11:10:28.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the cables on the back of the alternator are connected correctly.&#xA;Charge the battery.&#xA;Turn the ignition on and check that the battery charge warning light illuminates.&#xA;Start the car and check that the battery charge light extinguishes.&#xA;If the battery charge light is still lit up, then either the belt is slipping, the alternator is faulty or the cables are still not connected properly.&#xA;You could also check the battery voltage before and after starting.  If the alternator is running the battery voltage should increase to at least 14v if the alternator is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thought that it is possible that your battery may have been very low prior to fitting the new alternator.  Then after starting it to test it, you didn't leave it running long enough to put some charge back in the battery, so next time you came to start it, there wasn't enough power to start the engine. Everything may be OK after charging the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T12:16:08.653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:16:08.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21640" CreationDate="2015-10-08T12:37:48.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since choking helps, I would think it's carburetion.  A classic problem with motorcycle carburetors is that the idle circuit gets plugged up.  If that's the case they usually don't idle or run very well at low throttle openings.  How does it idle and run at low throttle openings after it's warmed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try spraying carburetor cleaner and blowing out the idle jet passages with compressed air.  Typically you can screw in the idle jet mixture screw all the way and count the number of turns, usually about 1 and a half.  Then unscrew it fully, there may be a spring and an o-ring, don't loose those.  With the idle screw out spray carburetor cleaner in the hole, let it sit a few minutes, and then blow out with compressed air.  Then reinsert the adjuster, screw it in all the way, and then back out the same number of turns as it was originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike whose ignition it too far advanced will also be hard to start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T12:37:48.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21657" CreationDate="2015-10-08T17:28:17.833" Score="7" ViewCount="3127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live close to the Rocky Mountains and drive into them quite often. I have a small naturally-aspirated four-banger that tends to lose a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; noticeable amount of power getting into the higher altitudes and it doesn't help that much of the drive will be uphill with two adults and luggage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this is due to the density of air being lower in altitude than at sea level. Less air being sucked into the engine implies less fuel to maintain the stoichiometric ratio, so you lose power to maintain the efficiency of the burn. In fact, &lt;a href=&quot;http://e3sparkplugs.com/how-to-calculate-the-horsepower-loss-at-altitude-for-snowmobiles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;you can roughly calculate&lt;/a&gt; how much horsepower you are losing using this formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HP Loss = (elevation in feet * 0.03 * horsepower @ sea level)/1000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to this is simple: &lt;strong&gt;More air!&lt;/strong&gt; Turbos compress air and shove it in along with the atmospheric pressure to create a higher density of oxygen, which is detected by the vehicle and more fuel is added, giving a boost in power. The result is that turbocharged vehicles have hardly any noticeable change in power in altitude. Since diesels often are equipped with a turbo, they rarely suffer any power loss in altitude for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question399.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; states that diesels have a compression ratio of 20:1 versus 8:1 for gasoline. I know that the compression ratio is unrelated to actual air intake; it is compressing the air that comes in to a specified ratio, regardless of how much air is involved. However, I imagine this might still help non-turbo diesel engines perform in higher altitudes since they tend to run lean and might change the fuel/air ratio less strictly. I think I understand why I'm off base in believing this, but I assume I am not taking everything into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: &lt;strong&gt;Do non-turbo diesel engines lose power comparably to non-turbo gasoline engines in higher altitude?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering Zaid's answer below, I threw together a quick chart to see the difference between the formula I gave above and the more accurate one Zaid so kindly provided for the percent power reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Altitude (ft)     3,000   5,000   10,152   14,000&#xA;Actual Reduction  5.91%   13.46%  30.18%   40.52%&#xA;Alternate         9.00%   15.00%  30.46%   42.00%&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can see that the simpler formula works best close to 10,000 feet and breaks down in lower altitudes. This was comparing the formulas for a gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T17:56:26.970" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T12:48:33.847" Title="Would a non-turbo diesel perform better in high altitudes than a comparable gasoline engine?" Tags="|diesel|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22683" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:47:24.733" Score="3" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandmother has a 2002 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is leaking gasoline fumes (not liquid; that I have found) after running the vehicle for some time and for about 30 mins to an hour after stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is strongest just after stopping the car and is definitely strongest near the engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site seems to indicate that it is probably a slow leak from a fuel injector O-ring:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simple-car-answers.com/Gasoline-Smell-in-Car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.simple-car-answers.com/Gasoline-Smell-in-Car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing anything and do the symptoms match the theoretical problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12586" LastEditorUserId="12586" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T17:24:21.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T16:24:28.003" Title="Diagnosis: Gasoline leak" Tags="|dodge|leak|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21655" CreationDate="2015-10-08T19:37:13.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Non-turbo diesels lose less power in the Rockies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://standards.sae.org/j1349_200803/&quot;&gt;SAE J1349 standard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Calculations shown below)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumptions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dry air pressure in the Rockies = 90 kPa   ( at 3000 ft)&#xA;           Absolute Temperature = 277.15 K ( 4 °C )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows us to compute the two quantities, &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;, that are used to determine the correction factors for both types of engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A = 99 / p_PT = 99 / 90 = 1.1&#xA;B = T_P / 298 = 277.15 / 298 = 0.9300&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For gasoline engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Correction factor = A^1.2 * B^0.5 = 1.081&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For naturally-aspirated diesel engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Correction factor =     A * B^0.7 = 1.045&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This correction factor is used to determine the actual power made by an engine on a dyno after environmental variations are taken into consideration, it implies that the diesel engine loses about 4.3%¹ due to the altitude change compared to the 7.5%² power lost by the gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Since 4.3% &amp;lt; 7.5%, diesel wins&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equations and explanation on how to use them are found in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0837617324&quot;&gt;Bosch Automotive Handbook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's nice to not have to worry about how to derive these relationships and just use the industry-wide standard for a change :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ : &lt;code&gt;1 - 1 / 1.045 = 0.043 = 4.3%&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;² : &lt;code&gt;1 - 1 / 1.081 = 0.075 = 7.5%&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T19:37:13.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:57:26.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2016 Forester power rear gate stopped d working with the fob button and the interior button..  The solution my dealer came up with was to reset the solenoid which he did by locking and unlocking the power door buttons on the driver door several times in a row.  Problem was solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12587" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T20:57:26.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21665" CreationDate="2015-10-08T23:03:49.990" Score="4" ViewCount="4470" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife drives an '08 Hyundai Azera Limited 3.8L with ~79k miles. Over the past few months she has been complaining that the gas mileage has gone down. Normal around town driving was getting us ~19.6 mpg (via the in dash meter). Recently fuel mileage is down to an even 17 mpg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started doing some diagnostics on the car to see if I could figure out what's going on. Using my trusty Innova 3160d scan tool, I used the live data mode to check the O2 sensors to see how they were behaving. They looked quite normal with readings all over the board between .100 &amp;amp; .900 mv. I started looking through the other readings which were available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hyundai provides about 38 different items you can check through the DLC port (and I can see on this scanner). The only thing which caught my eye was that the barometric pressure was showing at 29.2 in/hg. The reason it caught my eye was that it didn't move. I didn't think it would move a lot, but maybe it would &lt;em&gt;move some&lt;/em&gt;. With scanner in hand I started testing the other vehicles in my stable, only to find out neither of them showed the same reading. I had to go to the next door neighbors house and &quot;borrow&quot; their cars. I finally found one which showed a barometric reading. The vehicle I checked showed a pressure of 29.8 in/hg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While .6 in/hg does not appear to be a large amount, in the world of climatology I believe it is fairly significant. &lt;strong&gt;What I'm very curious about, though, is if the car is showing this much of a difference from actual, how would it affect fuel mileage? Would it be enough to drop it like I describe above?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, I'm assuming the neighbor's vehicle to be reading correctly as it is a much newer vehicle than mine. It could be off, but I'm highly doubting it at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:56:54.737" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:56:54.737" Title="How would a bad barometric reading affect gas mileage?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|hyundai|manifold-absolute-pressure-sensor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21659" CreationDate="2015-10-09T00:46:58.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Atmospheric pressure changes are rarely fast enough to see them happen on a gauge, it tends to take minutes or hours for them to be noticeable. Unless you're experiencing strong weather or rapidly changing elevation, you probably would not see any change at all, so that part doesn't surprise me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the sensors themselves are unlikely to be all that accurate. I'd expect a +/-5% variance at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started thinking about this in terms of how a real change in atmospheric pressure might affect mileage. At sea level, atmospheric pressure averages around 29.9inHg (but can easily range from 29.7 to 30.2 with changes in weather.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, lower air pressure would mean lower efficiency overall, and therefore lower mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Wolfram Alpha to do some calculations. 29.8inHg corresponds to an elevation of 112 feet, and 29.2 corresponds to an elevation of about 674 feet. That's a difference of around 560 feet. By comparison, driving from Savannah, Georgia to Atlanta would be a change of around 1000 feet in elevation, significantly more. I wouldn't expect that kind of mileage drop just by moving from Savannah to Atlanta, so I don't think that much of a sensor variation should cause such a mileage drop either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this, I'd say it's unlikely that just the faulty reading alone is enough to account for this mileage difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the sensor reading alone may not be all there is to it. It's possible that the sensor reading is multiplied by some other error, or that the sensor reading is a symptom of an electrical problem, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you compare your car's reading with the barometric pressure reading from your local weather report, and if there's a big difference, replace the sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T00:46:58.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21559" CreationDate="2015-10-09T00:55:57.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Faulty MICU! Grrrr..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MICU (Multiplex Control Unit)/ fuse box had to be replaced. It controls all aspects of the lights and even stores the code for the immobilizer. The switch was not the reason for the fault..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it was replaced all is good...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12497" LastEditorUserId="12497" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T02:50:36.637" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T02:50:36.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21663" CreationDate="2015-10-09T01:14:39.700" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if it causes any wear engaging/disengaging the clutch if you're in neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T01:26:35.043" Title="Does it cause wear on a clutch if it's partially engaged, but in neutral?" Tags="|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21662" CreationDate="2015-10-09T01:26:35.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't really cause any additional wear on the clutch itself, but you'll be taxing the throwout bearing. It gets worked every time you push the pedal down to disengage the clutch. When you are in neutral, you still cause wear on this part. Doubly so if you are holding the clutch at any point in the travel to the point where the clutch itself is anywhere from partially to fully disengaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T01:26:35.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21659" CreationDate="2015-10-09T04:07:55.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Barometric sensor (BARO) is incorrect will the fuel mileage will be affected?  It depends, and only rarely . In control systems that use MAF sensors such your Azera the BARO is not needed except as backup to the MAF sensor.  The MAF sensor measures the mass of the air entering the engine which is used by the PCM to decide how much fuel to mix with it to achieve stoichiometric mixture.  In this system the BARO can, and usually is, used only as a backup in concert with RPM, IAT and a MAP sensors to calculate air mass.   That system is called Speed Density. Some vehicles do not have a MAF sensor and use this calculated air mass system. Also, it is common for PIDs that are not in use to display inaccurate data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the speed Density System if BARO was off the fuel control system would correct the mixture with the feedback given by the mixture sensors; whether the Air Fuel Ratio or Oxygen Sensor type.  Check the Fuel Trim PIDs, if they close are to zero, less than 10, then the system is doing little to correct fuel mixture.  If they are over 20 then they are getting close to the limit to maxing out what they can do to correct it.  Fuel mileage should not be affected until the fuel trims reach the limit of available correction, usually over 30 total. But then the check engine comes on and fuel mixture type codes are set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The onboard mileage calculators are not accurate in many cases. I always calculate actual mileage over at least three tanks the old fashioned way with pump and mileage readings and a calculator before spending time on diagnostics. In fuel injected engines 99% of the time the fuel system is not the cause of the problem, it is one of four things: Driving patterns changed, fuel type/quality changed, weather changed or vehicle modified from stock setup, such as air intakes or other inappropriate parts or programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T04:07:55.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21659" CreationDate="2015-10-09T04:59:55.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the location shown in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/4152/paulster2&quot;&gt;profile&lt;/a&gt; is accurate, ambient pressure should be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/share/clip?f=d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427epenav6ks0d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;around 29.7 in Hg&lt;/a&gt;, so your neighbor's car seems to reflect the correct altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @barbecue &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21660/675&quot;&gt;mentions&lt;/a&gt;, Wolfram|Alpha shows that 29.2 in Hg reflects an altitude of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/share/clip?f=d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427ebhv64pvn5f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;205 m (674 ft)&lt;/a&gt; above sea level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the air densities resulting from these two readings, the percentage difference isn't really that much: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/share/clip?f=d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427efbq5i53033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1.6%&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some Azera-specific information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this extremely useful tidbit of information on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Hyundai-Cars-2006-2008/Components-Systems/Manifold-Absolute-Pressure-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f80e646f7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoZone site&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis my known):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a pressure sensitive&#xA;  variable resistor. It measures the changes in the intake manifold&#xA;  pressure which result from engine load and speed changes, and converts&#xA;  these to a voltage output. &lt;strong&gt;This sensor is used to measure the&#xA;  barometric pressure at start up&lt;/strong&gt;, and under certain conditions, allows&#xA;  the ECM/PCM to automatically adjust for different altitudes. The&#xA;  ECM/PCM supplies 5 volts to the sensor and monitors the voltage on a&#xA;  signal line. The sensor provides a path to ground through its variable&#xA;  resistor. The sensor input affects fuel delivery and ignition timing&#xA;  controls in the ECM/PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can understand why the barometric sensor reading doesn't change during the engine's operation - the MAP sensor is used to evaluate it just at startup.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stating the obvious, there is no dedicated barometric pressure sensor. The MAP sensor is used to determine barometric pressure. So if the barometric pressure reading is off, &lt;strong&gt;I have to question the integrity of the MAP sensor&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how could a bad MAP explain reduced fuel economy?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the reason why I was asking in the comments if the Azera has a MAF sensor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Hyundai-Cars-2006-2008/Component-Locations/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor/_/P-0996b43f80e645dc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AutoZone seems to think so&lt;/a&gt;, so I'll assume it has both MAF and MAP sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such setups, the MAF sensor is usually used by the fuel management system to monitor and regulate AFR. The MAP sensor is only be used to regulate AFR if the engine computer finds fault with the MAF signal. So to say that fuel trims are impacting fuel economy would not explain it since the MAP isn't used for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, MAP sensors in these setups are usually used for secondary functions such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EGR&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I can only speculate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; at this stage that the faulty MAP reading is affecting the operation of the EGR valve (which operates off a solenoid as opposed to vacuum). It is speculation because I don't know enough about the specific implementation of the fuel management system on the Azera to confirm that the MAP is used for EGR. However, this would explain all of the observations and corroborate the hardware on this particular vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the MAP-used-for-EGR assumption holds true for the Azera, the fault MAP would likely explain the reduced fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T04:59:55.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T08:17:19.357" Score="4" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I spotted a car with a hood badge I didn't recognize (actually it was on the grille but grille badge sounds wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The badge was a broad ellipse with a T inside it, and a diagonal slash cutting across the left arm of the T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my attempt to draw it from memory.  Google image search wasn't able to recognize it from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei0n0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei0n0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown hood badge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was black and looked quite modern.  It was possibly a largish hatchback with sleek looking lines.  Maybe a large coupe or a midsize sedan with an unusally smooth transition between the cabin and trunk. I didn't get a good look at the back end. Beyond that nothing really stood out about it other than the hood badge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw it on the street in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12589" LastEditorUserId="12589" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T16:42:58.350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T15:44:43.970" Title="What car has a hood badge with T in an Elipse with a slash through it?" Tags="|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T15:14:11.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2015-10-09T09:33:19.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fixed this issue. To fix it I did the following:&#xA;New air filter&#xA;New spark plugs&#xA;New coil packs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the thing that really helped is cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner and a tooth brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I had the engine open and the throttle body exposed I cleaned the air inlet manifold with carb cleaner too and checked the seals to make sure there were no leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also now need to change the engine mounts because they have prematurely worn due to the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11056" LastEditorUserId="11056" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T12:44:21.957" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T12:44:21.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T12:31:04.450" Score="21" ViewCount="358167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I was driving my car for about 30 minutes on the highway at speeds of up to 60 mph. I felt my brakes weren't really working and looked down to notice my emergency brake had been on the whole time (my indication lights don't work, so I didn't see any red light on my dash). The brakes smelled like they were burning, so my Dad and I allowed them to cool for an hour before driving the car home. He insists it's fine to drive and he drove it all around last night without any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2001 Sienna Toyota and I was hoping someone could confirm what he said so I feel more comfortable driving it this afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12593" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T01:08:15.580" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T18:49:27.737" Title="I drove with my Parking Brake on for 30 mins: should I be worried?" Tags="|toyota|brakes|overheating|safety|sienna|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21668" CreationDate="2015-10-09T12:36:10.403" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has been driving fine since then, all you have probably done is worn the brake pads down. Not fatal - but check when you pull the handbrake on that it is solidly holding the car stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice vibration, then I'd worry about pads/disks being warped or damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find though that you need the handbrake cable to be tightened, as it may not pull the brakes on as hard now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:30:54.870" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:30:54.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2015-10-09T13:24:45.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of the corrosion is due to bimetal contact between copper and lead alloys. Nothing to do with Hydrogen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12594" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T13:24:45.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21557" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:34:38.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the oil return lines I had were braided stainless steel, 5/8&quot; ID, -10 AN fittings to the oil pan and timing cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the lines were too long, and the one going to the timing cover wound up shaped like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oatey.com/img/sku/707-1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P-trap&lt;/a&gt;. This apparently prevented the frothy oil coming out of the turbo from flowing through the line, causing backup into the turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turbos have seals that are more like piston rings than gaskets. They're made of metal, circular and have a small cut to allow them to expand and contract (and makes it possible to install them). When oil pressure inside the turbo gets too high - say, if your stupid return lines aren't working - you get blow-by, and the oil exits through the exhaust, resulting in large clouds of oil smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smoke I saw from the turbo appears to have been coming from improperly-installed heat wrap on the exhaust manifold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the heat wrap and made some lines of the correct length. It's now day 3, and I've seen no smoke so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fingers crossed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, that hose configuration didn't work, either. When I recently rebuilt the engine, I tapped the block just above the oil pan and below the turbo, and ran a SS line from the turbo outlet. No issues in about 5000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T20:07:33.043" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T20:07:33.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21668" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:47:54.623" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car will be fine; any issues would have shown up by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;My indication lights dont work so I didnt see any red light on my dash&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, this is more scary/important. It's not hard to fix the bulbs - about an hour max for a mechanic - and essential for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T15:47:54.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21668" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:27:10.857" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to check wheel bearings. They and wheel grease were overheated and you drove with this for a while, so at least you may need to check and change wheel grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12597" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T16:27:10.857" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21668" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:28:12.633" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Parking brakes only engage the rear brakes, so your front brakes (which provide the majority of stopping power) are 100% fine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) On a car with rear drum brakes, which I believe your car has: The parking brake is simply a cable you pull which puts mechanical pressure on your rear brakes that your brake pedal hydraulic system normally would. However, the parking brake isnt meant to stop a rolling car, so the pressure is minimal compared to the normal brake pedal hydraulic system.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) If you think about it, you apply the hydraulic (regular) brakes heavily and/or consistantly ... and often. So a little bit of driving with minimal pressure wont do any significant damage.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4) The only damage that could happen is that the shoes wear down exactly as they would in normal braking.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5) In summary: Don't worry about it, unless the parking brake doesn't hold the car still on a steep hill. If so, get it fixed, but that isn't a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T16:28:12.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:51:12.983" Score="5" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2008 Chevy Cobalt LS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was installing a charged battery and accidentally put the positive wire on the negative terminal and then as soon as I touched the negative wire to the positive terminal I realized my mistake and put them on correctly.  The car was never started with the terminals switched, in fact it was probably no longer than a split second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing correctly, the car would not start and there was no clicking or anything to indicator the starter attempting to work.  All the electronics seem to function as my lights, radio, dashboard indicator lights seem to be working normally.  I checked the battery voltage when starting and there was less than 200mV drop, so I think the battery is not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to start checking fuses, but just thought I would see if anyone has had this issue before or had any advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will not start in park or neutral, the lights turn on and radio functions, but a &lt;em&gt;check engine&lt;/em&gt; light is now illuminated, I don't think this was there before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12599" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T08:17:32.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T08:17:32.510" Title="Switched battery terminals when installing, 2008 Chevy Cobalt" Tags="|battery|chevrolet|starting|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21611" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:46:22.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't drive it like that! Flashing CEL is a &quot;misfire&quot;, and can cause damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what happened with the oil, a flashing check engine light (CEL) almost always means there is a problem with a cylinder firing (spark is not igniting the fuel).  This also explains the hesitation, and lack of power.  This is bad because the unburned fuel can travel through the exhaust and burn inside the catalytic converter, which is then expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a typical 4 cylinder engine, the car can idle, and even produce some power if 1 or 2 of the cylinders are not firing.  At idle, it might even sound normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is caused by the oil level in your car, but I guess it's possible.  Last time this happened to me one of the &quot;coils&quot; was out, so two cylinders were not firing.  Note that it could also be something as simple as a spark plug wire that was knocked loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Checking the oil level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make sure you're doing it correctly, turn the car off, parked on a level surface and let it sit for 5-10 minutes.  Pull out the dip-stick, wipe it off, and put it completely back in (don't even look at it, the reading will be wrong).  Pull it back out and carefully check the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is no oil on the dipsitck, it means the car is probably 2 or more quarts low, but it doesn't mean that there is absolutely no oil in the car.  It's not good, but it doesn't mean there was damage because the car was &quot;out of oil&quot;.  If the oil light never started to flash, you're probably fine as far as engine lubrication goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T19:46:22.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T01:24:56.507" Score="4" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey that I changed the battery on about a month ago. I was a little paranoid that I might also have a charging problem so I've been keeping a little voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've observed a really strange pattern.  When I start it up, for the first few minutes everything looks as I would expect, 14 Volts or so.  Then it seems that the battery voltage intermittent. It will jump between 12.5 V up to 14 Volts, but mostly around 12.5 Volts.  Note that it jumps between these two voltage ranges it doesn't gradually move up and down.  If the voltage at the cigarette lighter is right it's not charging the battery most of the time.  However, if I shift into park or neutral it's back to a steady 14ish Volts. Also, once I get over 65 mph it's a steady 14 Volts.  The voltage doesn't really follow rpm, it's vehicle speed.  If I manually shift down into a lower gear at, say, 55 mph the voltage stays around 12.5 Volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's with the lights off.  With the headlights on I see a steady 14ish Volts at all speeds and in all gears. Any idea what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Eric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T02:15:36.693" Title="Weird charging issue" Tags="|honda|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21678" CreationDate="2015-10-10T02:15:36.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PCM controls charge rate on this vehicle. It monitors battery voltage and amperage flows to decide when to charge and when to rest.  This is done as a fuel saving strategy. Some systems use a three step strategy: No charge, 13.5 and 14.4v. Some use a two step strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage at the power socket should be correct minus a tenth or two of drop due to normal resistance in the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is not to say that your vehicle does not have a failing alternator. A load test would confirm or rule that out.  It sounds like normal behavior to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T02:15:36.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T02:57:54.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a comment on a Youtube video about doing an oil change for a 2012 Honda Civic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended oil type for a '12 Civic is a 0w-20 synthetic oil.   However, the youtube posted a comment saying he believes a 5w-20 synthetic oil provides more resistance to heat, as he lives in California, so it is actually a bit better than 0w-20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to this claim? I'd like to know since I live in a relatively hot part of California (SoCal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7244" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T16:03:43.590" Title="Does 5w-20 synthetic engine oil provide better resistance to heat than 0w-20 synthetic engine oil?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21683" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:00:21.040" Score="3" ViewCount="11965" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car seems to have a pretty bad smell in the air conditioning. WHat is the best way to flush out these smells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7244" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:16:53.003" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:16:53.003" Title="How do I flush out bad smells in my air conditioning?" Tags="|honda|ac|hvac|fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T00:13:29.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21680" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:38:44.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no truth at all. The weight of the oil does not correlate to heat protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil weight is its thickness or viscosity. The lower the number the thinner the oil. The oil that has two number blank_w blank is a dual weight oil, 5w 20 for example. The w stands for winter. This means that the oil flows like a 5 at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The second number is how the oil flows at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. In this case it flows like a 20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in a hot climate the w number is irrelevant. What is relevant is to put the manufacturer recommended oil. The weight of the oil correlates to the internal clearances of the engine. The manufacturer recommends the oil weight depending on the clearances that have engineered into the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T03:38:44.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21681" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:40:29.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad AC odors are usually related to poor drainage of condensation, which allows mold to grow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small drain hose which allows the condensation to drip out, but this can get clogged up or blocked by dirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the cause, then simply cleaning out the drain may be enough to clear things up. A quick google for your car model and air conditioner drain will probably lead you to a diagram at least, and possibly a helpful video. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the amount of mold is significant, you might need to clean the drain pan and evaporator coil. This could involve a lot of work under the dash, which I'd rather have a root canal than do myself, so I'd take it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get products that claim to kill the mold or neutralize the smell, but these are a temporary solution at best. As long as the drainage is poor, the smell will keep coming back. Fix the drainage first, then consider options for cleaning/deodorizing if the problem isn't resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that the smell could be something else, like a fluid leak. Usually you can tell by the nature of the smell. If it smells like dirty feet, or like a stagnant pond, it's probably mold. An acrid, chemical smell could be something burning, or a fluid leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="7225" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T03:48:57.357" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T03:48:57.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21691" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:43:16.813" Score="4" ViewCount="5065" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a year ago the headlights on my ten year old car started going yellow and opaque.  Ive often heard you can clear that up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-your-headlights-with-toothpaste/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;toothpaste&lt;/a&gt;.  So I gave it a shot and it worked perfectly.  My headlights were crystal clear and smelled minty fresh.  However, about 6 months ago they started fading again, so I cleaned them again.  And once more, they are starting to fade.  I will scrub them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, perhaps there is something you can apply that acts as a sealant to make them stay clean longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T20:28:03.417" Title="Headlight sealant?" Tags="|headlight|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21681" CreationDate="2015-10-10T03:49:24.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, your Civic has a cabin air filter. Check it and change it because it may contain the bad smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said there are two ways to get rid of bad smells that i'm aware of, but neither is easy because you would need to a shop that has the equipment. The fist uses a machine that atomizes an antibacterial deodorizing solution while running the AC in recirculation mode to draw the mist through the system. The second uses a machine that produces ozone. Ozone is toxic to living things and kill bad smell bacterial and fungi. The treatment is usually done overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T03:49:24.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21684" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:29:36.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is, but first a little story to explain why the headlights are going yellow/cloudy so quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any plastic headlight lens will yellow through exposure to UV radiation (which the Sun happens to have buckets of). Brand-new plastic lenses from the factory will invariably have a protective coating that is designed to deflect away much of the UV radiation from the actual plastic surface itself, which considerably slows down the rate of yellowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When headlights are deemed yellow/cloudy/opaque enough to warrant action, most people choose to polish up the surface, which does a decent job of removing the damaged surface. Unfortunately, it also removes the protective UV coating, and many people neglect to do anything to replace it. It comes as little surprise then that the yellowing returns with a vengeance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get the headlights coated with a clear, protective film that is designed to protect the surface of the headlight lens from pitting and scratches. The film is installed after the headlight lens is polished, so I'm not sure whether the UV protection comes from the film or the wax that is sealed in, but this combination helps the lens hold up remarkably well against yellowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many vendors out there. A quick web search with the terms &quot;headlight protective film&quot; should get you something for your specific vehicle quite readily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T07:29:36.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18977" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:41:32.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one thing I do when I want to see if my rear brakes are working or not, which can be done with anyone without any tools. It's a bit rough, but it will give you an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just drive along a dirt road, preferably one with compacted surface so that you can easily see if your wheels lock up while braking. Go straight, maybe 20-25mph, and hit the brakes hard. If you have ABS, turn it off first, and please make sure there are nobody behind you! If you brake sufficiently hard, your rear brakes will also lock up. When the vehicle has stopped, go out to look at the skid marks. You'll see that the front wheels have made skid marks in the gravel, and if there is loose gravel also behind your rear wheels, they're working. If they're not working, you'll see tire marks from the rolling rear wheels on top of the loose gravel made by the front wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the same method to get a rough (admittedly very rough) idea of the balance between the right and left wheels by comparing the length of  the skid marks on each side, but usually you'll notice this anyway as a serious imbalance will make your car start skidding to one side (so to be sure, start at a slow speed and gently increase if you don't get results right away). If the road surface is even, it'll skid towards the side with less brakes (unless there are no brakes at all on that side, but that's rare - and you'd definitely notice!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T09:41:32.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:53:00.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently discovered that there is oil on the radiator cap. I am driving a Toyota corolla with 4A engine which is automatic. What could be the cause for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12610" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T14:56:40.567" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T15:16:41.043" Title="Oil on radiator cap what could be the cause for that?" Tags="|toyota|oil|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T10:45:04.963" Score="3" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blU7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/blU7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;toyota 16069 voice navigation double din unit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought a Toyota 2003 tarago with the following head unit , just taking a chance to see if someone out there knows how to change the language from japanese to english. I only have a Japanese manual and I think it will take ma while to learn :.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12611" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T10:45:04.963" Title="2003 Tarago with Headunit 16069 want to change language from japanese to english" Tags="|toyota|audio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21688" CreationDate="2015-10-10T14:18:52.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can come from a leaking rear main seal or if your unlucky a leaking headgasket. But I would change your coolant first (maybe chuck some sealant in there if its minor and see how it goes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T14:18:52.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21684" CreationDate="2015-10-10T15:18:03.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Zaid said for the reasons for yellowing/clouding is spot on: UV rays. As for the fix, I would do it slightly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can use toothpaste to clean off the lens. This works to a degree, but to do the proper fix, take the wet sanding approach. Start by using a heavier grit wet sand paper, then use progressively finer wet sand paper. The idea is to get rid of the yellow, then get rid of the marks left behind by the coarser sand paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, you'll next want to protect your new covering. By using a UV protected clear coat out of a spray can, you can completely cover the lens (even the parts which may be hidden) and not have to worry about it for another 5-8 years. The reason to use sand paper instead of toothpaste is the spray needs &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; to hold onto. The fine scratches from the sand paper will do that for you. When you spray the lens, you want to ensure you put several fine coats on it and not just one thick coat. Put the coats on about 5 minutes apart. You want it to start to dry and still be tacky. If it isn't tacky, the next coat will not stick to it and will most likely peal off after a relatively shorty period of time. There are many brands of the spray, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is one from Krylon&lt;/a&gt; which should give you an idea of what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which is a great run through on how to fix the issue for a long time to come. The guy says it's a &quot;permanent fix&quot; ... the jury is still out on that, but it will fix it for a long time to come. He goes through it step by step as I basically described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T20:28:03.417" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T20:28:03.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21688" CreationDate="2015-10-10T16:10:38.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility would be a cracked head.Either way,leaking head gasket or cracked head, not a good thing. Also if any oil cooler lines go into the rad that would be another possibility, so maybe just the rad would need fixed or replaced. If head comes off to change gasket, check the head for cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastEditorUserId="12525" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T16:20:35.300" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T16:20:35.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T16:48:59.607" Score="1" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a ChrisFix video talking about making the winshield very clean.  He notes that he likes using carnauba wax after fully cleaning the winshield glass with cleaner and clay.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I was looking carnauba wax online, and found a few odd things. There are different grades of carnauba wax, so I'm not sure which I should get either. I read through a forum that said that carnauba wax is very weak against heat and that I should be seeking a different wax that is more heat resistant.  Does the different grades of wax affect this heat resistance? How would I know what is the right type of wax I will need to protect the winshield as best as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7244" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T22:09:34.330" Title="What's the best alternative to carnauba wax for coating a winshield under extreme heat conditions?" Tags="|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T18:04:31.013" Score="1" ViewCount="2758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a restoration project, and I'm having trouble diagnosing a problem with the car.  It's a 1963 1/2 Ford Galaxie with a 289.  It has power steering, which works, but only when you turn the wheel left.  If you turn it right, there is no power steering.  This is the case at idle, as well as while driving.  I have made sure that the fluid is full, and it doesn't make any concerning noises or seem to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very experienced with power steering setups in general, and even less so with this car.  What is a likely culprit to cause such behavior?  I would expect it to either work or not.  What would cause it to only work in one direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-10-15T14:01:05.833" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T14:01:05.833" Title="Power Steering Only Works on Left Turns" Tags="|ford|power-steering|galaxie|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:27:57.163" Score="1" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today we have in the market so many car with different types of automatic gearbox system, produced by many manufactures, like ZF, Getrag, Aisin... producing from conventional automatic gearbox, to CVT, and many other solutions in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering before buying a new car, that it will travel and climb many mountain, with frequent variable inclination, what type of technical solution it would be the most reliable and long lasting? it might be an hard job for a CVT? or it would be better a Twin-clutch or conventional automatic gearbox?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&#xA;Regards.&#xA;Enrico&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T20:27:57.163" Title="Which is the best / most reliable car automatic gearbox technology for frequent climb mountain" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-16T17:52:39.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:33:17.590" Score="3" ViewCount="2359" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1995 Yamaha virago 535, why does the fuel pump click 10 or so times before trying to start?  I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay.  It still has the clicking issue and will not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12614" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T21:48:52.543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T16:32:45.900" Title="1995 Yamaha virago 535 Fuel pump problem" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|yamaha|virago|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21694" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:47:56.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem lies in the steering mechanism. There is a plunger inside which will work to one side or the other, depending on which way you turn the wheel. When you turn it to the left, the plunger works correctly and you get power steering. When you turn to the right, the plunger doesn't work and you get nothing. The plunger works by directing the power steering fluid as needed. When the plunger is in a neutral position, the fluid is bypassed and fed back through the return. This non-working situation may be due to either something being broke or something being worn out. I'd bet something is actually broke, because if it was worn out, it probably wouldn't work to either side. The &quot;something&quot; which is broke would be the mechanism which directs the flow valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are possibly two ways to fix this issue. Since this is an older car, you may not be able to find a replacement steering box for it. You'll probably end up needing to get the one you have rebuilt or if available, get it replaced. The second way to fix the issue is to convert your steering over to a newer style technology, like a rack and pinion system which is pretty common today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T21:47:56.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T22:57:38.340" Score="6" ViewCount="45804" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been driving a car with a manual transmission for 6 years. I never had to replace the clutch but the transmission recently blew up on me. I was aware that my car was leaking transmission fluid for quite some time so I assumed that was the reason for the car's transmission failure. Upon further thought, I started questioning my shifting habits. Now I know all the basics, like don't hold the clutch down at a red light, don't ride the clutch blah blah blah. My questions are a little more specific to my own habits.&#xA;For example, When I am in 1st gear (and lets say I am in the drive-through at a fast food place) and I want to inch forward because some space just became available. &#xA;Is it OK to &quot;half-shift&quot; in order to inch forward in tight spots? (by &quot;half shift&quot; I mean this: So I am in 1st gear, I release the clutch halfway and give a little gas in order to get some acceleration, but then immediately depress the clutch and gently brake before fully engaging 1st gear so I don't crash into the car in front of me)&#xA;Would a scenario like that damage my transmission? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question is if bad rev matching would damage the transmission. I know it could screw up the clutch but my main concern is about the transmission? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just a myth that with manual transmissions the clutch will eventually need to be replaced, and the transmission should go for 100s of thousands of miles no problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who insists that bad shifting will only damage the clutch...but I don't know if I believe him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can tell me any other ways that bad shifting could damage the transmission I would love to know! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12618" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:33:36.820" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T03:21:14.950" Title="Manual Transmission- Can bad shifting destroy transmission" Tags="|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19789" CreationDate="2015-10-10T23:00:15.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed and cleaned the air control valve thoroughly and the problem is completely gone.  I tried using seafoam for the cleaner and while it did work, it was not nearly effective as choke and carb cleaner (suggested by someone else on the Ford forum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12039" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T23:00:15.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21698" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:04:01.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it OK to &quot;half-shift&quot; in order to inch forward in tight spots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually called &lt;em&gt;slipping the clutch&lt;/em&gt; and as long as you don't do it for prolonged periods of time will not damage the clutch. Doing it for prolong periods will cause heat buildup to occur, which is very bad for the clutch and for the flywheel (can form heat cracks). As far as the transmission, this is typical driving and &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; damage the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another question is if bad rev matching would damage the transmission. I know it could screw up the clutch but my main concern is about the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely can and will damage the transmission, but &lt;em&gt;not the clutch&lt;/em&gt; ... at all. This affects the transmission by damaging the synchros and other soft parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a friend who insists that bad shifting will only damage the clutch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you don't want to beat him up for it, he is absolutely wrong in this case. Think of it this way: the clutch (to include flywheel, pressure plate, and friction disk) is a &lt;em&gt;sub-system&lt;/em&gt; as part of the drive train. The transmission is another sub-system in the drive train. The two are unique sub-systems. While they work together to complete the drive train, just like the engine and differential do, they will not affect each other in a mechanical sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: There are some weird situations where they could intermix, but that is a rare occasion. This also doesn't include dual clutch systems either ... another story.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch is used to couple the torque/power from the engine to the transmission. The transmission takes torque and multiplies it through gear reduction to make it more usable for the vehicle. It then further transmits that torque/power further along the drive train so it can be used to motivate the vehicle down the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clutch were to go out, it doesn't affect the transmission's operation. The transmission can still be functioning &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; as it's supposed to. The thing is, it wouldn't be getting any power to do its thing. Looking at the transmission, the clutch can still be working fine. It is capable of coupling/decoupling the power/torque from the engine to the transmission, but the transmission may not be able to use it because it's dead (for whatever reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T13:20:34.043" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T13:20:34.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21693" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:24:50.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr&lt;/strong&gt; - Rain-X is better than carnauba wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading an article by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2010/06/st_whatsinside_rainx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wired Magazine&lt;/a&gt; about Rain-X. The article talks about &lt;em&gt;how Rain-X works&lt;/em&gt; and is the basis for why it will (if applied properly) work better than carnauba wax in cool weather or in high heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the main ingredient in Rain-X which makes the water run off is called &lt;em&gt;Polydimethylsiloxanes&lt;/em&gt; (PDMS). This substance creates a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrophobe#Superhydrophobicity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;superhydrophobic&lt;/a&gt; surface on the glass which will repel water. The article states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) - A chain of repeating molecular subunits — two organic methyl groups attached to inorganic silicon-oxygen — forms a thin layer on the windshield, and the methyl groups provide low surface tension, which actively repels high-surface-tension fluids like water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain-X also has &lt;em&gt;chlorotrimethylsilane&lt;/em&gt;, which it states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Residue from PDMS synthesis, this compound is regularly used to silanize — that is, chemically neutralize — laboratory glassware so organics won’t stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is organic? Bugs. (As an aside: What's the last thing which goes through a bugs mind when it hits your windshield ... It's BUTT! ... Sorry, had to throw it in.) If this stuff will help keep organic matter from sticking to glassware, it will help keep bugs from sticking to your windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing which helps Rain-X is &lt;em&gt;siloxanes and silicones, di-me, hydroxy-terminated&lt;/em&gt;, which the article states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fragments of PDMS, broken down by that sulfuric acid we mentioned. The hydroxyl groups help them bond strongly to glass, making it tougher for your wipers to disperse the Rain-X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will actually help the Rain-X stay on your windshield because it is bonding to the glass, even if you squirt alcohol based windshield wiper fluid onto it. Carnauba was cannot claim any of these things. &lt;strong&gt;It is an organic wax which repels water ... that's about it. There is nothing in it which will help it stay on your windshield when the wipers are going. There is nothing in it which will keep it from washing away when you throw some wiper fluid on it.&lt;/strong&gt; Due to Rain-X's ability to stay on your windshield, it should outlast the wax in almost &lt;em&gt;any situation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been a couple of things which the blogs/forums will state are issues with Rain-X. One of those things is chitter ... where the wiper will skip across the windshield. I've found if you keep the wiper clean, this problem never occurs. The easiest way to accomplish this is when you are washing your windshield at the gas station, put the squeegee side on the glass under the wiper, the lay the wiper down onto pad side of the squeegee. Pull the squeegee out from under the wiper and see all the crap which comes off of the wiper. It will work a lot better as well. Also, usually when you start getting chitter, it's time to reapply the Rain-X. You can postpone this by using the Rain-X brand of washer fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue which may occur with Rain-X is after application, you may see swirl marks. There are two things you can do to alleviate this. First, only apply the one direction, such as horizontally. Second, you need to ensure you are following the directions correctly by using a wet applicator. Thirdly, use a clean damp cloth to wipe the are after its dry. A microfiber towel works wonders here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note: This is not an advertisement for Rain-X. I do not work for Rain-X, but I do endorse their product (unfortunately for free). When used correctly, Rain-X works wonders. It &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; works great at night when it's raining for being able to see what's going on around you. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; keep your windshield free of water, especially at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T22:09:34.330" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T22:09:34.330" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2015-10-11T07:48:00.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look, my father is a certified mechanic, and in most cases it only takes about six to eight hours to do the job. Unless of course you own a Porsche, then 14 hours may seem like a reasonable amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12619" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T07:48:00.450" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-10-11T07:48:00.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21705" CreationDate="2015-10-11T14:16:49.083" Score="2" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning metal work and will one day build my own motor cycle tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these have any internal sealing or bladder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T23:08:40.053" Title="Is there any protective sealant or bladder within a motorcycle tank?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:03:53.080" Score="3" ViewCount="2120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new in the field of OBD2 sensor;&#xA;I am looking for a method (or a formula) to calculate Volumetric Efficiency of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Petrol Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which do not have a MAF sensor. Can anyone help me with the method of calculating such or give a direct formula to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data known are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AIR_INTAKE_TEMP&#xA;ENGINE_COOLANT_TEMP &#xA;INTAKE_MANIFOLD_PRESSURE (MAP)  &#xA;ENGINE_LOAD &#xA;ENGINE_RPM  &#xA;SPEED   &#xA;THROTTLE_POSITION   &#xA;FUEL_ECONOMY    &#xA;AIR_FUEL_RATIO&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These data have been taken from OBD2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12621" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T17:46:03.020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T17:46:03.020" Title="How can one calculate volumetric efficiency without a MAF sensor?" Tags="|obd-ii|maf|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21703" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:30:29.073" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically no.  My bikes with steel tanks don't come with any sealant and are definitely steel on the inside.  Same with alloy tanks. Plastic tanks now sometimes come with sealant to stop the ethanol warping them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are after-market products such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit_p_62.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POR-15&lt;/a&gt; that can seal tanks against corrosion however I don't know how effective they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T15:30:29.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21720" CreationDate="2015-10-11T16:26:41.610" Score="0" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy new oval speakers for the rear side of my car.But I'm having trouble figuring out which one to buy.The car came with the holes and ready cables for the speakers but without them. The hole for the speakers is 11.5cm X 9cm(4.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;). Since oval speakers are usually advertised in inches, I'm kinda confused which one to choose because there aren't any oval speakers in that size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1997 Nissan Serena GA16DE. Here is a really poor picture of the hole,sorry for that.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8Vou.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8Vou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12601" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T12:24:42.613" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T12:24:42.613" Title="New oval car speakers.Which size?" Tags="|car|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19472" CreationDate="2015-10-11T19:45:05.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: I am from the UK, so if you are from other countries, your kit or the manual could be slightly different.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did this over the weekend. It was a very difficult job, but I'm gonna write how I did it for reference. If you have back problems or anything, DO NOT attempt this job. I'm quite fit, and it made my back ache. Access is terrible, I also had a few cuts from the sharp metal radio holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I got all the tools that I needed. These were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some plastic spudgers from ebay. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=4x%20Auto%20Car%20Door%20Radio%20Clip%20Panel%20Trim%20Dash%20Audio%20Removal%20Installer%20Pry%20Tool%20UK&amp;amp;_id=381041370275&amp;amp;&amp;amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These are the ones I bought&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some philips and flathead screwdrivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kitchen knives (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecookshop.co.uk/ecookshop/products/large/xlarge/ZAIT0610.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;that you eat with, not the sharp ones)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;UK&lt;/strong&gt; Parrot MKi9200 &lt;a href=&quot;https://parrotcontact.parrot.com/website/user-guides/download-user-guides.php?pdf=mki9200/MKi9200_User-guide_UK.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Instruction Manual&lt;/a&gt;, printed. This isn't very helpful, but it's useful to see how things go together, and how to pair the remote.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A torch. I just used my phone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some spanners if you disconnect the battery. I didn't bother when I installed it in my new 2003 Opel Agila.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I did&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I disconnected all the cables from the blue box which was simply held under the dashboard with cable ties. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I removed my &lt;strong&gt;Sony&lt;/strong&gt; radio by sticking the knives in the sides, as I didn't have any removal keys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I unplugged the antenna and the ISO adaptor at both ends, and pulled out the radio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then removed the microphone, and threaded it through the A-Pillar to remove it. I then unplugged the screen and removed it through the air vent. I had to remove the glovebox for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then pulled all the wires through, and then cut the power wires before the inline fuse (I cut the off after though, as one was blown anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the power, the black wire is ground, the red wire is permanent live, and the orange wire is ignition live.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then took the wires into the house and untangled them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job is really hard, as access is terrible. If you have small hands it's useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T19:45:05.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21710" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-11T21:53:54.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions related to repair (fixing a failed or damaged component) as opposed to maintenance (preventing failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T20:17:53.783" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T20:17:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21711" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-11T21:53:54.447" Score="0" Body="For questions related to repairs (fixing a failed or damaged component) or repair techniques, as opposed to maintenance (preventing failure)." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T20:17:53.783" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T20:17:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21712" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-11T21:54:42.440" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T21:54:42.440" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T21:54:42.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21713" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-11T21:54:42.440" Score="0" Body="Anything to do with cleaning the interior or exterior or removing things like stickers and decals." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T12:17:35.347" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:17:35.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T23:48:37.420" Score="2" ViewCount="3512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Kia Rio. Recently the car radio stopped working. The unit powers on, all the buttons/display seem to work normally, but the radio scans for a station with no sound. No, static, nothing. When a cd is inserted, the sound system plays the CD normally. All The fuses seem to be in good condition. Do you know what the issue could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12625" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T09:02:00.640" Title="2009 Kia Rio Radio seems to not be able to get a signal (no sound)" Tags="|audio|kia|rio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T10:00:53.850" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot about My Ford Touch issues with being slow and unresponsive. Does Sync 2 resolve those errors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T12:26:16.780" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:26:16.780" Title="Does Ford SYNC 2 resolve unresponsivness issues?" Tags="|ford|sync|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:42:26.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21706" CreationDate="2015-10-12T11:32:51.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The measurement is the distance between the mounting holes.  I suspect you have 6x4 which is the size used across many older Volkswagen and Porsche cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can confirm this by measuring the distance between the mounting holes, not the diameter of the speaker aperture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a range of 6x4 speakers available from a number of manufacturers so you should have no problem finding a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T11:32:51.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T16:11:25.580" Score="0" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removed alternator, sprayed brake cleaner inside and out.blew it out with air reinstalled it. works fine.   charging at 14.5 volts .dont know how long it will last?????  Do you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12637" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T20:42:11.180" Title="Remove alternator before cleaning" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21696" CreationDate="2015-10-12T16:32:45.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many fuel pumps do this by default and are 'priming' the fuel system for start by increasing the pressure behind the injectors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most motorcycles with fuel pumps this is standard operating procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T16:32:45.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T18:46:39.670" Score="10" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up this car as a gift, and on day one drove it the 370+ miles home. After the first 160 miles or so I noticed that the car was struggling to maintain highway speeds. So I pulled over into a rest stop, and took a short break. When I hit the highway again, it was back to normal performance. However after another stretch of driving (160 miles or so), I noticed it was again struggling to maintain 70mph. This time I pulled off the highway, turned the car off, then immediately back on and performance was back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my first diesel, and the first time driving this vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car's got plenty of &quot;quirks&quot; but ran (mostly) fine other than this drop in power over time. Not really an issue for day to day driving, but something I'd like to address at some point. Hopefully it isn't indicative of impending near term doom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valves have been adjusted recently, and the maintenance seems mostly up to date. I'm not real familiar with diesel's in general, and so as an addendum here I would ask for any information that would allow me to utilize the manuals for keeping this old girl running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Additional car specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300D Turbo Diesel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Wikipedia article, the engine is: 3.0 L OM617 A I5 turbodiesel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12638" LastEditorUserId="12638" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T20:03:37.757" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T05:11:06.530" Title="1983 Mercedes Diesel - Loses Power Over Time" Tags="|mercedes-benz|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12394" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:00:26.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I've had the same problem, very intermittently, for about a year. Took it to the Dodge shop (I know these guys and trust them) and they couldn't find the issue. They replaced the TIPM, starter, couple of other things. Recently, I remembered a trick from somewhere - if it doesn't start, turn the key to &quot;on&quot; (not &quot;crank&quot;) and put the shift into neutral. It starts from there every time. Next time I'm in the shop I'm going to mention that, it could be related to the neutral safety switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12639" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T20:00:26.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:18:54.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the only thing that cleaning an alternator could fix would be a stuck &quot;brush&quot;.  A brush is a common part of an electric motor (or alternator) that wears down over time.  They normally have a spring that holds tension on them as they wear.  If the brushes were &quot;stuck&quot;, the alternator would stop charging.  &lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; this is what happened, it should keep working for a long time - until the brushes stick again or fail completely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course since you removed and replaced it, the problem could have just been a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor bushes with springs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWKSI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWKSI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T20:18:54.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="80665" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:42:33.793" Score="3" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently said goodbye to a 2002 Mazda Protege that made it to just over 300,000 miles. So naturally I purchased another Mazda - 2007 Mazda6, 5-speed manual, 91k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the difference in shifting feel being night-and-day, I've noticed that as I'm accelerating and upshifting, the RPMs don't drop immediately when I release the clutch, even when I'm entirely off the gas pedal. There is nearly a full second delay from clutch release until the RPMs begin to drop, leading to a significant pause between gears as I wait for my revs to match my desired gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal, or could my hydraulic system be acting up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12612" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:35:26.287" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T00:41:13.230" Title="Hesitation in RPM drop when shifting manual transmission, 2007 Mazda6" Tags="|mazda|manual-transmission|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2015-10-13T03:50:03.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have your starter relay checked if you do not have a multi-meter. You should also check your voltage regulator.&#xA;Both items have contact points inside their covers (like the old point systems) and with moisture getting inside can cause these points to rust together which in turn will draw juice from your battery while the engine is off. I have had this happen to me while owning a Chevy, Ford and Chrysler.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12642" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:42:56.223" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:42:56.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T04:20:00.790" Score="-2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that it is driven 12k miles  a year  ...will an hybrid last as many years as a conventional car (before excessive repairs)....I do not think so because I think that electronics will degrade before mechanical parts do. Most mechanical movie film cameras made in the 50's still operate, but most video cameras made in the 80's no longer function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12643" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:43:29.333" Title="Hybrid auto vs convential car ...longetivity?" Tags="|hybrid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T04:28:24.597" Score="4" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something's happened recently, and I figured out to start the car, I needed to use the Central locking remote to lock and unlock the car while being inside to turn it on. The button for the remote is now damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another way of starting the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry, not sure of the make, model or year, this is for a friend, but I can get it if it's essential)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9055" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T06:36:58.443" Title="Toyota Corolla won't start without fiddling with the central locking first" Tags="|starting|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21731" CreationDate="2015-10-13T07:01:36.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our experience with the Prius is that is holds up very well over time. The Prius Hybrid Battery failure rate below 200k miles is low. Inverter failure is not common. Some of the motors in the transmissions will fail but not at low mileages. The Honda Civic hybrid has a had battery problems at lower mileages.  The risk with a hybrid is that hybrid designs have two extra expensive parts that can fail; the Battery and the inverter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T07:01:36.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T08:17:37.277" Score="2" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a little play in the steering and it feels a little vague when making slight turns at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had an issue with the steering rack attachment before but this seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be tie rod connectors? Ball joints? Steering rack? Could anyone point me in the right direction to what I should be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this is the non-power steering model)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I jacked up the car and tested the tie rod connectors and ball joints by shaking the wheel as best I could. From what I've learnt online the wheel should move slightly or they should rattle or click a little if they need replacing. But there was nothing - everything seemed very solid and all the boots seemed intact and in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T10:04:58.120" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T11:44:26.720" Title="Steering feels vague, especially when going over bumps (Mk1 Golf/Rabbit)" Tags="|vw|steering|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21736" CreationDate="2015-10-13T08:33:33.203" Score="1" ViewCount="26998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought an auto transmission sedan but have no idea how to drive it correctly. All I know is put to D gear, and just drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, is this the right way to use an automatic gearbox? Should I start with it in neutral or park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get into the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand brake off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand brake on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shut down engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12644" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T00:18:20.023" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T00:18:20.023" Title="Is starting with my automatic transmission in Neutral a good idea?" Tags="|starting|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-18T13:57:19.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21735" CreationDate="2015-10-13T09:15:53.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have to go into N to start the car, in normal driving you probably will never really need N.&#xA;When stationary, and I mean stationary, use P, never select P when moving.&#xA;After starting and when about to move off select D then release handbrake.&#xA;Only select R when stationary and wanting to reverse.&#xA;You can select D when moving forward or even when moving slowly in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting from P&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foot on brake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn ignition to start engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Release handbrake if applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull away (obviously following the rules of the road)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stopping from D&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foot on brake to slow down and come to a complete stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handbrake on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn ignition off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove foot from brake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Happy Driving.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T13:19:03.690" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T13:19:03.690" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21734" CreationDate="2015-10-13T10:21:11.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on if your car is left or right hand drive, there is an adjuster on the front (LHD) or rear (RHD) of the rack on the pinion which allows you to adjust the amount of free play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is located just under where the column attaches to the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to check are that the column is firmly secured to the rack and all of the columns unions are firm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that corrosion in the bulkhead could lead to this but this is usually accompanied by difficulties selecting gears as the linkage is bolted to the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first port of call would be to check the tire pressures and then have the steering geometry (tracking, etc...) confirmed at a garage with alignment equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that my Mk1 Cabrio GTI bit the dust when the corrosion in the bulkhead where the offside part of the rack attaches got so bad that the rack broke free and detached itself from the column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T10:21:11.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T10:23:45.713" Score="2" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pioneer Navigation Setup and it supports only AAC, MP3 and WMV format of videos to play,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the problem is AAC, MP3 are working fine, but WMV i am unable to figure out how to make it work, i convert videos using any video converter still unable to load them. but there is one wmv video which is working fine with audio and video. i am trying to convert video as working video but i have no idea how to do it. i tried making the video size small, big, with audio, without audio and all the way possible, but could not get a similar video converted to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how can i do this and make videos to play in my setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the setup pioneer carrozzeria avic-mrz02-2&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/carnavi/rakunavi/avic-mrz02-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pioneer.jp/carrozzeria/carnavi/rakunavi/avic-mrz02-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9059" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:40:46.080" Title="Pioneer Navigation Setup video playback" Tags="|toyota|audio|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2015-10-13T11:22:08.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with many F-series Eco-boost Fords that trap air in the top of the radiator.  If the coolant is replaced without purging that air, all kinds of temperature excursions will occur, including very high gauge temperatures at times.  Looking at the system, you will notice a vent line from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank.  Ah, you say, the radiator will vent all by itself.  But IT WILL NOT because THE VENT LINE IS A DUMMY!  It is blocked!  You cannot blow air through it!  It came from Ford that way and YOU MUST NOT REPLACE IT WITH A HOSE THAT HAS NO BLOCKAGE.  All you have to do to get the air out of the top of the radiator is to temporarily remove the &quot;vent hose&quot; from the top of the radiator, wait until coolant emerges from the opening, and then replace the &quot;vent hose&quot;.  Why the fake vent line from Ford? My guess is that after all the expansion tanks got made with the vent line nipple molded in, Ford discovered that the cooling system could not function properly with an authentic vent line in place.  By blocking the vent line, Ford could cosmetically attach it to the expansion tank and still have a functioning cooling system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12645" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T11:22:08.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21734" CreationDate="2015-10-13T11:31:13.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be wear in the center section of the rack, which may be adjusted out as @Steve Matthews said.  However, it is a good idea to study the subject of adjusting the rack before attempting to do so.  If it is adjusted incorrectly, you could be putting your life at risk.  You could adjust away wear in the middle section of the rack, then when you make a tight turn, the rack could lock in place where the rack is not worn to the same degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T11:44:26.720" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T11:44:26.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11328" CreationDate="2015-10-13T13:37:38.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had problem with my Mazda Protege several years ago that sounds very similar to what you describe. I would have to give it a ton of gas to get it going as it would sputter out in the first two gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out I had a slit in the air intake hose that goes from the filter to the intake - as soon as I replaced it, the problem magically went away. If you have an open hole in your air intake hose, I'd say that definitely could be the culprit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12612" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T13:37:38.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21743" CreationDate="2015-10-13T14:13:38.983" Score="6" ViewCount="144251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Jetta Wagon (Golf Variant is caller in my country). &#xA;Petrol engine. &#xA;Usually rides school and back (15 miles) with engine between 2000 and 3000 rpm. &#xA;Just did a 300 mile trip at 3500-4000rpm. Next morning I noticed smoke and dark water coming out of the exhaust. &#xA;Coolant is not dirty, smoke has decreased after coming back another 300 miles, but when I start the car it &quot;spits&quot; black soot/water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some water out of the exhaust while it's cold is normal, but in this case, it happens at every start, even with a hot engine, and the soot is considerable. I've just seen a Mazda drip a few drops, which is normal, but if you see the video linked there is a lot of water and soot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electronics in the car are not working very well either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: There is no overheating, No oil in the cooling fluid and no other symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpQySxCB1Eg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of the actual problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12647" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:51:13.717" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T03:48:49.200" Title="What does it mean when soot is coming out of my exhaust?" Tags="|engine|vw|exhaust|head-gasket|smoke|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21742" CreationDate="2015-10-13T16:31:10.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing wrong, water is a byproduct of gasoline combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 C8H18 + 25 O2 → 16 CO2 + 18 H2O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where  C8H18 is the gasoline reacting with oxygen (O2) and giving Carbon-dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O) as the byproduct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this simply is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 * Gas molecules + 25 * Oxygen Molecules → 16 * Carbon Dioxide Molecules + 18 * Water Molecules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the black soot is just water mixed with carbon in exhaust pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water usually comes out when engine is not hot enough like when starting it. So the liquid water drips out of exhaust with the carbon mixed in it making it black. But after driving a little the engine becomes hot and so thus the water and it comes out as steam. So you don't need to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT  :&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases the cause of water leaking from exhaust is a blown up head gasket, or cracked head, but that also results in overheating of engine. Since your engine is not overheating so i would say that it's just water getting accumulated in our silencer and coming out when you start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say much about the electronics, maybe just some wires got loose. You should probably get that checked by someone in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastEditorUserId="2826" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T14:07:27.087" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T14:07:27.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21746" CreationDate="2015-10-13T16:51:49.143" Score="9" ViewCount="72998" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post on the TireRack blog &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/docs-advice-on-tires/what-is-the-best-tire-pressure-for-my-new-tires&quot;&gt;http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/docs-advice-on-tires/what-is-the-best-tire-pressure-for-my-new-tires&lt;/a&gt; recommends that tires be inflated to the vehicle manufacturers specifications (usually printed on a sticker on the inside of the driver's door) for best safety and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this still hold true after replacing the tires with a different, non-stock tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12650" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T22:35:44.167" Title="Are recommended tire pressures the same for non-stock tires?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T16:52:09.363" Score="2" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;T-belt on Sienna 2004 was broken.  How do I do re-timing for my car both cam-and-crankshafts before installing the t-belt?  Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12649" LastEditorUserId="12649" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T21:13:31.677" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:57:40.893" Title="my timing belt is broken and top dead centers (TDC) are off" Tags="|timing-belt|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2015-10-13T17:03:48.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer's recommended tire pressure is &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; for the stock or stock-equivalent tires. Depending on the non-stock tire, you could be looking at a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended tire pressure listed on the sticker in your car door frame is usually optimized for ride comfort and little else. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/61&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, you will maximize fuel economy and tire life by airing up the tire to about 90% of the maximum tire pressure, as determined on the wall of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the maximum tire pressure is 44 psi, like it is for my car, you can safely fill it up to about 40 psi. &lt;em&gt;Do not&lt;/em&gt; fill it up more than this, the 44 psi maximum is the maximum for a reason. This advice would hold for non-stock tires as well. Make sure all these measurements are done while the tires are cold by letting them sit for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ride is harsh, you can reduce the psi a little at a time to something more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f15/proper-tire-pressure-non-stock-spec-tires-224121/#post1722661&quot;&gt;found a neat test&lt;/a&gt; you can perform to see if your tires are properly inflated. Draw some chalk lines on your tires perpendicular to the direction of travel. Drive a short distance &lt;em&gt;in a straight line&lt;/em&gt; and look at the chalk. If the inside part of the chalk is worn more, you need to let air out of the tires. If the outside is worn more, add more air. If it is worn evenly, you are at a good pressure for that tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T18:47:31.463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T18:47:31.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T17:27:49.123" Score="2" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing some reading on racing brakes and on AP Racing website I have found an interesting master brake cylinder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Differential Bore Trunnion Type CP8854 - Push Type&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to minimize pedal travel needed to reduce pedal travel until proper pressure is built up. On the web site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/master_cylinders/differential_bore_trunnion_type/cp8854-push_type.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/master_cylinders/differential_bore_trunnion_type/cp8854-push_type.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is an extensive explanation how does this thing work. But I do not understand it completely. Id understand that bigger bore is used to push larger amount of fluid under lower pressure until some predetermined limit. But how is this achieved is still in blur to me.&#xA;Could someone with an insight explain this in more detail or perhaps from another perspective. Or even better, a diagram of internal workings would be most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12651" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T13:42:42.533" Title="How does AP Racing differential bore brake master cylinder work?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T17:22:34.327" Score="1" ViewCount="2437" Body="&lt;p&gt;What methods or ideas are out there that can match or change an SR20det ECU's signals or codes in order for a newer CAN bus system to read, for example, the power steering to work as well as the cluster on the dashboard for revolutions per minute and oil pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="dave thomas" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T02:47:34.820" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:49:32.627" Title="ECU signals to CAN bus" Tags="|engine|mazda|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21747" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:04:26.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture of the &quot;pull type&quot; part might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pu1U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pu1U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pull Type&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small cylinder with the blue cap is the &quot;external changeover valve&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The master cylinder has two chambers, and one has a larger diameter than the other.  In hydraulics, the difference in cylinder size is what gives you a mechanical advantage.  Initially when the large cylinder is active and high pressure is not needed, a larger amount of fluid is pushed into the system.  Once the pressure rises (as the brake pads contact the disk and tighten up), the external valve changes from the primary (large) chamber to the secondary (small) chamber.  The smaller chamber provides a greater mechanical advantage, and the smaller amount of fluid is fine because the brakes are already tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the secondary chamber is activated, the large chamber is not under any pressure at all.  Furthermore, if you continue reading their description, the primary chamber isn't activated again until the driver completely releases pressure on the pedal to prevent the switchover from happening rapidly (in the middle of a corner for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Description&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets compare this with a typical master cylinder from a passenger vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWBv4.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWBv4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Master Cylinder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we see two chambers that are compressed by two plungers that connect to the same rod.  This provides hydraulic power for two circuits at the same time, like the front and rear brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differential bore model looks very similar inside except the &quot;primary&quot; is larger than the &quot;secondary&quot;, and both of the outputs are controlled by the external changeover valve.  When braking begins, the output of the secondary cylinder is vented back into the reservoir so it moves freely.  The primary output is directed to the brakes.  Once pressure increases, the changeover valve switches so that the output of the primary is directed to the reservoir and it moves freely.  The secondary output is now directed to the brakes providing greater force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that since AP doesn't provide any diagrams for the internal, patented workings of their cylinder, the implementation details could vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T13:42:42.533" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T13:42:42.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21750" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:16:02.927" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T18:16:02.927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T18:16:02.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21751" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:16:02.927" Score="0" Body="Turbocharged Direct Injection - A configuration of VW diesel engines where the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and the engine is equipped with a turbocharger." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:56:45.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:56:45.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T19:53:22.343" Score="1" ViewCount="2789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Vauxhall Astra automatic which was making a wearing sound around left front wheel. I had both front brake pads plus discs replaced. Now when my car is in park with the engine running, I press the brake pedal on &amp;amp; off and there is now a clicking noise which seems to be coming from the gear box area......any ideas please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12653" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T22:01:28.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T18:44:55.183" Title="Noise from gearbox since new brake pads and discs" Tags="|brakes|noise|vauxhall|astra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2015-10-13T20:39:06.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SR20det ECU is a propietary part, likely containing a chip designed by someone like Broadcom, which will then have been integrated into a board by a tier 1 automotive supplier like Bosch, who will have then cased it in metal, added posh connectors and mass sold it to Nissan. Nissan will have had their own  engineers who have come up or use a CANbus protocol for their system (some standardized way of representing/transferring information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes tier 1 suppliers (like people who do the dashes) will agree/sign up to some automotive standard like Autosar &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So thing number 1 that needs researching is: is there such a CANbus standard that applies to your car? There are definitely automotive standards which will have applied at the time that car was put in production - J2534 is a good example of such a standard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know what that standard was - you can either use something like an OBD2 tool to start a process of &quot;black box engineering&quot; unplugging or pressing something seeing if you can get output you expect.. for example when you disconnect the brake do you see an error code come out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have been through this careful process of working out what all the signals mean. This may be no small task - the manufacturer may be using a mix of some standard CAN format with their own propriety messaging system. The system could be event-driven (i.e. a message is only sent when something happens), or time based.. a message is sent every 10 milliseconds regardless of input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have worked out how to decode all of the old messages.. you then need to go through the same kind of process with the new system. What signals do I need to send in order to get things working? There are USB to CAN adapters so that you can start playing with: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.systec-electronic.com/en/products/industrial-communication/interfaces-and-gateways/can-usb-adapter-usb-canmodul1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.systec-electronic.com/en/products/industrial-communication/interfaces-and-gateways/can-usb-adapter-usb-canmodul1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now because you don't seem to need to read too many signals.. this might actually not be too bad. On the other hand it could be a significant amount of work. It is very difficult to say for sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that I can recommend is to go to your local hackspace/makerspace type place and talk to people there who are interested in electronics. If you take the ECU they may be able to help you get started with tools like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate&lt;/a&gt; and using CAN shield for Arduino &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your project is by no means simple - but nothing is impossible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12655" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T20:39:06.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25055" CreationDate="2015-10-13T22:35:32.567" Score="4" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a rear camera and parking sensor kits to install myself in a Honda Fit 2015. While I have no trouble making the proper electrical connections, I have no previous experience running cables from the back to the front of the car, so I'd like to ask the more experienced folks the most adequate path or way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the system uses the rearview mirror to display the rear camera image, I suspect the cable should go under the top panel cover (that panel between the car ceiling and the car interior - I don't know the proper name for that in english) and down through one of the lateral front columns somewhere close to the car floor. Then I wonder the cable should go between the door rubber and the floor covering, but I'm not sure. Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3082" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T22:39:56.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:01:07.697" Title="Running cables from rear camera and parking sensors to car front in a Honda Fit 2015" Tags="|honda|audio|parking|camera|fit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T07:36:01.627" Score="4" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Hiace. I was driving and it just died, nothing. Dash lights all work, but motor will not turn over, nothing from starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has dual fuel, and was wondering if it could be the AEB 552 Safety Relay Ref: EAEB-552-SAFETYRELAY. Would this stop the van without anything motor wise working. I have checked the fuses and all look ok, but I don't have testing equipment. What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12658" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T11:22:07.653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T11:22:07.653" Title="Hiace 1996 ignition/motor problems" Tags="|engine|starter|wiring|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2015-10-14T11:49:39.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Needed tire-pressure is all about actual load on tire and maximum speed you use and wont go over for even a minute, and a bit about alighnment specific the camber angle above 2 degr wich is sometimes done behind on sportif cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once got hold of the formula the European Tire- and Car- makers use to determine the advice pressure and went running with it, and in time even constructed my own and learned a lot about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you have other tires then original and maximum load and or Loadrange is different ( other loadindex and or for instance XL instead of standard load P-tire), then the advice pressures also need to be re-calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have aftermarket tires of same sises and Loadrange , though the brand or model is different , then in general you can use the same advice pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance you have a 195/65R15 91T tire ( wich I had of European system)for brand A, and you swich to brand B and tire sise and Loadrange stay the same, then maximum load also stays LI 91= 615kg and AT-pressure stays 36psi/2.5 bar.&#xA;If I would swich to 195/65R15 95T XL(=reinforced/Extraload)= 690 kg maxload AT 42psi, and those values are filled in the formula and it would lead to a bit higher advice pressure for the same load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American AT pressures are a bit different, Standard load always 35 psi/2.4 bar and XL/Extraload/Reinforced 41 psi/ 2.8 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12659" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T11:49:39.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T12:15:22.157" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I recently purchased a Volkswagen Golf MK4, 2002, Automatic.&#xA;1.6 SR running on Gasoline and LPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start the car in the morning (Usually 2-7 Celcius outside),starting it with Gasoline ofcourse,  it takes a few seconds but it's all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I put it in drive, press the pedal a little bit, it barely moves, as if it's stuck in another gear (like limp mode, but it isn't..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I give it a bit more gas, it starts moving, no problems, but when I look at the current L/h it goes up to 70-80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not occur after the car has been running for atleast a minute..- meaning that if I come to a full stop around the corner, and start driving, it doesn't do &quot;this&quot; anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I threw the car way and got myself a decent car. The car was in limp mode pretty much 90% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blew head gasket&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaking and burning oil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Burned tons of engine coolant when Gasket blew&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ran on 2-3 cylinders instead of 4.. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you get another car before it shows all these signs because mine went straight to the junkyard after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4406" LastEditorUserId="4406" LastEditDate="2017-08-28T14:28:05.610" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T14:28:05.610" Title="Automatic - Cold engine uses tons of gas to move" Tags="|vw|car|golf|cold-start|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24063" CreationDate="2015-10-14T14:46:26.557" Score="7" ViewCount="1228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 84 Ranger 2.8L V6. It seem that nearly every time I start the car, it has a pretty rough idle while it warms up. If I just rev the engine a little bit for a second and release (just barely tapping the pedal once), the idle smooths out instantly, even if the engine is still very cold. Is this a normal part of the autochoke mechanism or something? Shouldn't it wait until it's &quot;warmed up&quot;? And is this something that I can adjust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T05:45:50.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T05:45:50.807" Title="Rough idle while warming up, goes away after a tiny rev" Tags="|ford|carburetor|ranger|warmup|choke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21760" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-14T14:48:44.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T14:48:44.630" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T14:48:44.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21761" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-14T14:48:44.630" Score="0" Body="The choke valve adjusts air pressure through restricting an intake manifold to deliver a richer air/fuel mixture. It is typically on carburetor engines and applied during a cold start." OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T11:40:22.320" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T11:40:22.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2015-10-14T14:51:39.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Rory states the primary reason for the exhaust corrosion are that the exhaust gases react with the cold silencer when starting the engine and condense to form acids which corrode metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not say that salted roads are the only reason since in my country they dont salt the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variable depends on the manufacturer's choice of using the material to make the exhaust manifold and silencer. Some vehicles have higher quality alloys which do not corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I or should I be worried? Heck NO! Unless you are going to use this car for track day and racing purpose the rust on the exhaust should definitely not cause an issue and should last the lifetime of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However , in case of an accident the rusted exhaust might give way easily since its already weakened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can combat the rust by using solutions such as using vinegar and sandpaper to remove rust and applying a coat of WD 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T14:51:39.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:16:55.343" Score="1" ViewCount="8032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some cars that use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_noise_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;active noise cancelling&lt;/a&gt; to reduce the engine and rolling noise in the passenger cabin. Some cars even &lt;em&gt;reintroduce&lt;/em&gt; engine noise to give the driver some feedback...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how or where can I find which cars use such systems? This is a technical feature not listed in brochures and too &quot;technical&quot; for the average showroom guy, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following a link given in the comments I found another link with a listing of cars and noise levels. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auto-decibel-db.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Auto Decibel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T12:35:40.550" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T22:04:47.250" Title="Which cars have noise cancelling installed to reduce rolling and engine noise?" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21763" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:57:06.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the old Mazda Xedos 9 (and possibly Xedos 6) featured this system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:57:06.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21777" CreationDate="2015-10-14T20:19:28.203" Score="4" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Miata LS with some moderate track modifications, including Bilstein coil-overs, a Hard Dog roll bar, Hawk HP+ brake pads, OMP seats with Schroth harnesses, Nitto NT01 tires, and more. It has an aggressive alignment (set up by a track alignment specialist) but still has a full interior and is very streetable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't drive the car as much as I'd like so I can't remember when this started, but the car shakes fairly badly between about 65-75mph. Below that, it's very smooth, and above that, it can be a little rough, but it calms back down for the most part. It seems like there's a resonant frequency at highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shake doesn't seem to be specific to the steering wheel or pedals - the whole car seems to shimmy rapidly from side to side. It's not violent, but it's bad enough that I can look in the rear-view mirror and see a lot of horizontal blurring. I can also hear slight tremors in my voice when I talk, kind of like when someone taps on your back or chest while you say &quot;ahhhhh.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the brake rotors (all 4) and front hubs with OEM parts, and that seemed to helped slightly, but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I can make out a reduction in vibration when I accelerate and unload the front wheels, which suggests to me a front wheel problem (part of why I replaced the hubs, but they also just needed it based on the 65K mileage).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most baffling thing is that this doesn't happen constantly. More often than not, in the 65-75mph range, the car is vibrating, but often it's not. When it starts vibrating, it doesn't seem to correspond to changing pavement texture/conditions, steering or throttle input - it can just happen on its own without any changes at all, then eventually stop just as randomly. It doesn't seem to happen suddenly either way; the vibration just gets gradually worse or better over several seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I spun off-track sideways onto smooth grass at about 70mph last year. I really don't remember if the car already vibrated like this beforehand, but maybe that knocked the steering out of alignment or caused a similar problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing these symptoms? I realize this is best diagnosed by a mechanic in person, and I'll probably resort to that eventually, but I'm trying to learn more about the car by working on it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T01:16:21.373" Title="What is causing vibration on my 2001 Miata LS track car?" Tags="|wheels|vibration|alignment|miata|track|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24667" CreationDate="2015-10-14T20:29:01.203" Score="6" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla with squeaking from brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Very High Pitched&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Worse when wet / rainy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only happens within certain peddle range (stops if I press soft or real hard)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Steadily goes away while driving (but restarts after parking for a while)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pads are good, they have over half the pad left&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I tried the anti-break squeal stuff on the back of the pad, no help at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastEditorUserId="10713" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T14:54:11.393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:07:04.593" Title="Loud High-Pitched brake squeal" Tags="|toyota|brakes|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19560" CreationDate="2015-10-14T23:52:06.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the age of you vehicle you should be over 100k miles. Have you maintained the transmission? Replaced the filter and flushed the fluid? If so, it could be the transmission its self from wear and tear. Does your car have a manual gear selector too? Can you shift into all gears manually, cold or warm? We recently had a 2004 Altima here at my shop for the same complaint as you (high RPMS before shifting in to higher gears), in our case the fluid level was low. We replaced the filter, flushed the transmission, it helped remedy the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluid needs to create pressure to change gears. As the fluid gets hot it expands, possibly causing it to finally shift in to 4th gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T23:52:06.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16082" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:17:43.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about connecting your iPhone which uses the &quot;LE&quot; to do things like air drop etc, you should be fine, your 4.0 system is backwards compatible. You are right it will only connect at the &quot;highest&quot; speed of the slowest device. Called my friend at the dealer and asked for you about the audio formats. It should play fine based off of your device as its just playing the audio through the bluetooth and not taking the song from your device then decoding it through the deck to your ears. Hope that clears it up. Let me know if my friend is wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastEditorUserId="12675" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T00:25:13.917" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T00:25:13.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:36:53.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle can't support e85 fuel or also known as flex fuel. The lines need to be lined with teflon to avoid damage to the fuel lines, that high amount of ethanol will eat through the fuel line.  Is your valve cover leaking oil? Same issue as yours, customer came back after a trip, car had a hard start and hesitation under load. Valve cover leaking oil in to the spark plug valley, new plugs, coils and wires along with a new valve cover gasket. Fixed the issue. If you are slightly mechanically inclined, try and pull the spark plugs and check them for clean burning or fouling. My customers vehicle is a 1996 Protege with a 1.5 motor. A car your age might have a few oil leaks, they cause many issues if not taken care of right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T00:36:53.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21771" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:43:27.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have whats called &quot;glazing&quot;, thats what my techs refer to it as. Thats when your rotors get warm/hot and create a very smooth surface like a mirror. You want friction against friction for your brakes. If you can see your reflection in the rotor (glass like surface), Id suggest having the brake rotors resurfaced. Ask a friend to stand outside of the vehicle while you brake to verify the position of the squeaking noise, from the echo in the cabin self diagnostic can be tricky for brake squeak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T00:43:27.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21770" CreationDate="2015-10-15T01:16:21.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is a rear wheel drive vehicle, you should check the drive line and U-joints. It could be if one of the U-joints is worn out, it gets off center slightly and causes the drive line to vibrate at the given speed. Since it does happen at a given speed, the other logical thing to check would be to have the tires rebalanced for a higher speed. Most any tire shop &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to do that for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T01:16:21.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21857" CreationDate="2015-10-15T01:16:33.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got brand new tires in April. In July they started growing unsightly brown stains. Even after I wash them the stains reappear within hours. Kind of annoyed because they were hella expensive and they are really unattractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 3 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it possible to get rid of them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is this something I could take up with the manufacturer to get them replaced?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T01:22:32.390" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T20:08:36.193" Title="Brown splotchy stains on my tires" Tags="|tires|cleaning|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2015-10-15T01:19:54.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over filling it by a little won't cause an issue. However you need to bleed the system if it was low. You could have a pocket of air stuck in the motor. You can youtube how to bleed your engine properly. If you bleed it out and it continues to overheat, have a shop do a block test. You will want that block test if you keep losing coolant and you don't have any coolant leaking under the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get that level of coolant back under the right level you can use a turkey baster to suck out the coolant till its low enough. The other way is to go under the vehicle when the engine is COLD, and open the drain on the radiator to lower the coolant level. You will then need to follow a topping off and bleeding procedure for your engines cooling system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it overheated, you should replace the thermostat and radiator/reservoir cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T01:19:54.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8827" CreationDate="2015-10-15T08:50:29.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 TK (bought new) has 205,000 Ks, runs beautifully, never been to a shop only serviced by me , best oils and filters at short intervals, no timing belt change yet, and not until 250,000Ks and then again at 500,000Ks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T08:50:29.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:42:12.107" Score="5" ViewCount="2528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Bought No brand Android head up unit from ebay (Hong Kong) here is a link to the unit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/201368248559&quot;&gt;Generic android 4.4.4 car stereo&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My car is Volkswagen Golf VI 2010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when I turn the car off the power remains in the stereo and it will not shutdown completely. I know this because the cooler still spins, even 8hr from the shutdown and the stereo wakes up immediately when I push the stereos power button, it resumes from only sleep mode. I'm afraid that this will drain my battery if i won't do something to this. This behavior is not normal. I have put the setting correct, so that when ACC is of the unit shut power down 30s later but this doesn't hapen. So I think the ACC and CONST wires are mixed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me? Could this be the case, or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone explain me how to change the CONST and ACC wires crossed, and is there a potentially some danger by doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12681" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T20:11:27.833" Title="HuiFei Android HeadUp Unit not shutting down completely, ACC and CONST wires mixed up?" Tags="|vw|wiring|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21787" CreationDate="2015-10-15T10:20:01.183" Score="1" ViewCount="3186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, my car did not start and I had to ask the ADAC (automobile club in Germany) to come. The problem was in the battery. The ADAC guy connected my car's battery to another battery then the car started. It was the first time that this happened. The battery is almost new. There is no sign in the computer board that there is a problem in the battery. Today in the morning it was OK, the car started with no problems.&#xA;What are the potential problems? what should I do to prevent this from happening again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some information that may help in answering: whenever I put the gear into R (reverse), the multimedia system in my car starts the radio without being on. This may be related to battery drain or something, I do not know.&#xA;The car is C 180 Kopmressor Mercedes-Benz &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Today, I took the car to the Mercedes garage, they checked it and replaced the battery with a new one. The question now, how the car worked OK after the first problem?  Is it normal for a dead battery to work again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12240" LastEditorUserId="12240" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T17:50:42.880" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T17:50:42.880" Title="Car Battery problem: The car did not start" Tags="|battery|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21782" CreationDate="2015-10-15T11:26:38.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short or open circuit can drain the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that multimedia starting when reverse is selected is related to the reversing sensor option (our Golf does the same as it uses the display for the reversing sensors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem that could be happening is that your alternator is failing and not charging the battery properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, make sure that you don't have an accessory left switched on such as a glovebox or boot light which may be draining the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T11:26:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T12:35:58.613" Score="4" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a driving habit that i guess is harmless to the vehicle, and i want to hear your opinions on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes i change the gears, for example, 1st then 3rd then 5th, when i am driving downwards, since it doesn't make the car choke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, is it harmless to the gearbox to change gears in a non-sequential way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12682" LastEditorUserId="12682" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T12:43:46.333" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T17:11:05.203" Title="Gearbox impact of skipping gears driving downwards" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21745" CreationDate="2015-10-15T12:54:14.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Before installing the timing belt, I'd worry about engine damage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2004 Sienna came with two engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 3.3 L V6 (code 3MZ-FE), which comes with a timing belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 3.5 L V6 (code 3GR-FE), which utilizes a timing chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these engines are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;interference&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; engines, so the pistons and valves will occupy the same physical space at different times while the engine is running. If the timing is out, the valves and pistons can come into contact with one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the question refers to a timing belt, I'm assuming the OP owns the former, in which case there is a bigger issue to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a timing belt snaps on an interference engine while it is running then you can expect internal damage to the valves and pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not attempt to turn the engine over, even if cranked by hand. I'd imagine the least invasive approach to inspect the piston surfaces would be to use a borescope. Unfortunately things do not look so optimistic for your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T18:57:40.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:57:40.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19460" CreationDate="2015-10-15T13:06:48.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem - only worked very close to the ignition column. I soldered two thin wires from the battery to the board, and hey presto - fixed!&#xA;The problem seems to be worn out pads on the board where the battery spring make contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12683" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T13:06:48.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21782" CreationDate="2015-10-15T14:28:24.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the potential problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery was probably drained. This can happen for several reasons, one of which is the alternator which recharges the battery has failed. In that case the battery will not get charged and will slowly drain again. You can check this by measuring the voltage when the engine is running. If the battery is getting charged the it should read just over 14 volt. (That is assuming you have a meter for that on the dashboard. For some reason manufacturers tend to skip on this very useful device in several models).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively your battery might get charged just fine when the engine is running. But if you leave on something which uses electricity when the car is not running then it will drain overnight. Classic example for this are the headlights, but given enough time lesser users such as the light in the trunk will also do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check for these is to put an amperage meter in between your car battery and the rest of the car.  (&lt;strong&gt;Caution&lt;/strong&gt;: Do NOT attemp to start the car or use massive amounts of electrical power while such a device is in place. It will likely overwhelm it and you will see the magic smoke escaping.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you might be able to do the same with the fuse box, by checking the power drain across each fuse individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same warning: Do not try this for massive power users. E.g. do not try to start the car while measuring the fuse to the starter engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what should I do to prevent this from happening again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding out what caused it in the first place is the prpoer solution (and ofc. fixing that).  Alternatively you can disconnect the battery each time after you have parked. I've done this in the past. It is a PITA but it works and it can be a big help if you need to bridge a few days until you have time to properly fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, not asked, but:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it happens again you can jump start the car from another battery. No need to call ADAC for this as long as you have a second car (e.g. from a helpful neighbour). As long as you have jumpstart cables this is trivial to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T14:28:24.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T14:38:43.157" Score="3" ViewCount="2815" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title mentions, I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan, and my transmission sometimes downshifts forcefully with a clunk when I let off the gas. It will do this no matter what gear I'm in (except 1st of course), and depending on speed and gear, it will jolt me forward in my seat. If I put the slightest pressure on the gas pedal, it will up shift into the proper gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been driving back and forth between FL and MA (a distance of about 1,300 miles [~2100 km]) a couple times per year, and this is what brings on the issue, which will persist for a week or two after the trip. Additionally, it seems to be related to the speed I travel on the trip between FL and MA: If I go slower, it either won't come up or if it does, it will last a shorter amount of time (I.E. a few days rather than a week or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I keep a slight pressure on the gas pedal and brake with my left foot, it does not do the hard downshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://newprotest.org/details.pl?1410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, which is similar, except my speedometer doesn't fluctuate, I don't have cruise control, and it happens in all gears, not just second to first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what is causing this, and can you please tell me all I need to do is tighten a bolt (an easy to access bolt)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@JPhi1619, it has about 121,000 miles (~194,730 km) on it, and I changed the fluid/filter at, if I recall, around 70,000 miles (~110,000 km), right when the owner's manual recommends replacing trainy fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Rana C'mon man... no bad news please :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12577" LastEditorUserId="12577" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:28:38.790" LastActivityDate="2023-08-24T17:21:03.377" Title="Transmission sometimes downshifts forcefully with a clunk when I let off the gas 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan" Tags="|automatic-transmission|dodge|grand-caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21792" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:24:25.750" Score="7" ViewCount="2503" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, Volkswagen had software to artificially enhance their efficiency ratings on a test rig. Since it would only be active under test, what is the point of recalling millions of cars to remove software that will never be run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a lot of hassle and uncertainty for the owners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:51:59.133" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T12:51:59.133" Title="Why are VW recalling their cars to remove a defeat device?" Tags="|vw|diesel|emissions|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21789" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:27:34.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is they are running on an illegal tune. It is running all the time. They need to detune the vehicles so they will run within spec, or they will face greater penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:27:34.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21793" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:22:23.207" Score="7" ViewCount="83677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often been told that driving through puddles (anything from a small one to 3-4cm deep) can be bad for my car, and I shouldn't drive through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know about aquaplaning, but is there any other damage driving through puddles can do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean in general, so I could also be doing at high speeds, so there is quite a big splash...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Does it have any effect on the brakes as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T18:46:18.077" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T02:47:24.697" Title="Will driving through puddles do any damage to my car?" Tags="|driving|damage|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21789" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:35:11.870" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recall is not to remove the cheating logic; it is to actually make the engines meet emissions requirements so they do not violate the law any more. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2015/09/18/volkswagen-diesel-federal-charges/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autoblog's initial article&lt;/a&gt; on the scandal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volkswagen intentionally installed software in nearly a half-million diesel vehicles that helped the cars evade substandard results on emissions tests, the federal government charged Friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Environmental Protection Agency issued a notice of violation to the German automaker, saying the company's software broke the law by violating two provisions in the Clean Air Act. Circumventing the standards meant affected cars emitted as much as 40 times the allowable level of certain pollutants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the EPA and California Air Resources Board have launched investigations. In its notice of violations, the EPA said Volkswagen officials admitted to installing and concealing what they call a &amp;quot;defeat device,&amp;quot; which was designed to detect when the cars were undergoing official emissions tests – and only turn on emissions controls during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2015/10/02/to-solve-diesel-problem-vw-might-need-two-fixes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some articles&lt;/a&gt; have suggested that the affected engines need more than just a software patch; hardware changes will be required (emphasis my own):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Automotive News citing Reuters, two remedies to cover different NOx-reducing systems could be necessary, and both potentially affect performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier examples of the EA 189 diesel engine used a lean NOx trap to reduce the harmful material coming from the tailpipe. According to experts in the Automotive News report, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a software update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; might allow the engines to achieve compliance, but that could affect fuel economy. VW already tried this route once before the scandal came to light, but &lt;em&gt;tests by the California Air Resources Board still showed the figures were too high&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, some of the 2.0 TDI engines began using &lt;em&gt;Selective Catalytic Reduction&lt;/em&gt; that reduced NOx by injecting a urea solution into the exhaust stream. According to Automotive News, a software update for this equipment might increase the amount of the substance used. Not only would that mean topping up the fluid more often, but there still could be some reduction in fuel economy. But, since the 2-liter, 4-cylinder TDI engine that sits inside the diesel vehicles first mentioned as being affected by the issue in the US &lt;em&gt;don't have a urea treatment system&lt;/em&gt;, VW would &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;need to install them&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; into these cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The irony of this whole episode is that regulatory compliance would have been far, far &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2015/09/30/vw-diesel-fix-would-have-cost-335-per-vehicle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheaper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:41:55.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:46:00.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have plastic guards underneath to stop water from spraying up on sensitive components, but everything under the hood is typically waterproof to some degree.  That said, the only &quot;damage&quot; I have ever seen is the spray of water loosening or tearing off plastic guards that are not properly fastened or half-way ripped off already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic short answer is, it shouldn't break anything that isn't somewhat broken already.  Cracked light housings could get wet, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the water is deep enough that there is a huge rush of water over the front of the car or the engine bay, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; suck some water into the intake, but then again, the intake/air filter housing is made to deal with this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:  The heat from the brake system should dry them very quickly.  There will be a momentary loss of a little braking power, but shouldn't be very noticeable.  Most of the splash will be directed away from the wheels, so the brakes might not even get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally love to hit puddles at high speed to see the big spray.  My wife hates it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit based on comments...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, don't speed on residential streets and never hit a big puddle unless you've driven over the same spot in dry weather.  Chances for hydroplaning are great, so go over puddles in a straight line and avoid steering or braking input until the puddle is crossed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Large waves of water can &quot;hydrolock&quot; the car if water is sucked into the engine, which is bad.  The intake is made for splashes, not waterfalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T21:40:17.167" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T21:40:17.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:50:45.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet brake pads don't stop as well\quickly as dry ones. I remember this as more of a issue with drums vs discs, but I still always hit the brakes lightly after a puddle to help them dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you have any tire problems already (say a weak spot on the side wall), the shock from the bump may be enough to make the weak spot into a blow out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hey....big splashes are fun.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T18:50:45.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2015-10-15T19:44:32.757" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a buddy years ago who liked to do the same thing. Our big plans were cut short one evening when he hit a good sized puddle and managed to knock his muffler completely off. It was surely loose before, but it would have been nice to repair it some other time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly won't &lt;em&gt;help&lt;/em&gt; anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you splash pedestrians, you won't win any friends, particularly if they know who you are or where you park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If spotted by the police, there's a good chance you'd get pulled over for erratic driving if only to get a lecture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is that you're only &lt;em&gt;expecting&lt;/em&gt; a shallow puddle. Depending on where you live, what appear to be springtime puddles often conceal cavernous potholes which won't do your tires, rims or suspension a bit of good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12688" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T19:44:32.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:25:00.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have just been doing some heavy braking, making the discs very hot.  Cooling them very quickly by driving through water could warp the discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T20:25:00.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21789" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:29:04.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I understand the issue, VW wanted to increase performance and fuel mileage. The easiest route was to allow the car to pollute more. This was not possible while meeting the stringent emission standards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they developed software that would allow the vehicle to pass the emission requirements only while in test mode. Then essentially alter the emission parameters during everyday driving to achieve more performance and better fuel economy. And they got caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there is a team of lawyers trying to figure out how to compensate owners for the reduced economy and performance they will get for the rest of the vehicles' life. Not to mention reduced value as the vehicles now have a tarnished reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T22:18:01.167" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T22:18:01.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2015-10-15T21:04:45.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One downside is that you can't seen how deep a puddle is, or if there is a big hole in it. You could cause some suspension damage by hitting a big pothole hidden under (inside?) a puddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T21:04:45.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21778" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:30:16.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like tire blooming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire rubber usually contain an anti-ozonant which prevents UV damage to the tire (like you might see on a windshield wiper blade, it starts cracking). The anti-ozonant, when exposed to air, turns brown. Since the anti-ozonant is part of the tire's rubber, it continues to rise to the surface of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it possible to get rid of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you want to use a gentle cleaner. Using something too harsh may result in exposing more the the anti-ozonant to the air. Once it's cleaned off, dress the tire in a protectant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is this something I could take up with the manufacturer to get them replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps. If it is tire blooming then might tell you its completely normal and expected. It might be the result of a manufacturing issue, returning &quot;within hours&quot; is a bit unusual, I would at least make an inquiry to the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T22:30:16.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:50:00.263" Score="4" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would you use as a running in (break-in) oil for this engine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this engine, and it has just been reconditioned, new pistons, conrods, crank and bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12694" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T08:18:47.977" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T14:15:34.570" Title="Running in oil a for light diesel engine (Japanese, Toyota 3L)?" Tags="|toyota|oil|diesel|break-in|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21810" CreationDate="2015-10-16T00:44:12.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've all been near a big Harley at a stop light, where the rider keeps blipping the throttle. I've always wondered why they do this. Is it because those big pistons don't idle very well, and if you don't blip the throttle they tend to stall? Or is it just a bit of macho (or occasionally &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Talk:macho&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;macha&lt;/a&gt;) fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T13:23:45.977" Title="Big motorcycles at stop lights; why do they keep blipping the throttle?" Tags="|motorcycle|idle|throttle|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21852" CreationDate="2015-10-16T01:06:08.733" Score="2" ViewCount="4529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remembered reading somewhere that we shouldn't start our cars with devices (GPS, cell phone, video game device, etc.) plugged into the cigarette lighter port.  This is because when we start our car, there will be a surge of power going into our devices and messing up either it or the battery it's charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where I saw this before but I'm wondering is this true?  Should I unplug all devices before starting or is this some sort of old wives tale?  If this &lt;strong&gt;IS&lt;/strong&gt; true, is there an article proving electrically/mathematically why it's bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T06:29:05.157" Title="Is it ok to start the car with my GPS, cell phone, etc. plugged into the 12V port?" Tags="|electrical|starting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-16T02:44:54.067" Score="2" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hit a few weeks ago and have been trying to get my motorcycle fixed ever since.  2012 Yamaha R6.  I replaced the tank among other things and trying to start it it sounds like it's sucking air.  Checked all the lines and everything seems fine.  The pump is working and loading the rail with gas when I turn it on.  The heads are sucking for air so those are fine.  The last thing I'm checking is spark.  I pulled the radiator off and pulled all the plugs out but from here I don't know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUuVO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUuVO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastEditorUserId="10623" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T06:31:03.927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T06:31:03.927" Title="How to check spark plugs on a Yamaha R6" Tags="|motorcycle|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21813" CreationDate="2015-10-16T07:31:52.780" Score="2" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my pertol cap since old one wore down to the point where I am unsure it will open in petrol station. The one that I got shuts tank ok, but sensor is indicating that cap is open - which in turn switches engine light on dash, and then I have to go to local garage pay £30 to reset the codes (I could ignore the light but then if real fault occurs I will not know about it and it might cause damage by continuing to drive).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After few journeys like that and them even doing if for free (I guess felling awkward to charge for same thing every couple of weeks). I figured I will get myself OBD2 connector and start reseting them myself. I got myself a cable but cant find where to plug it it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where is ODB2 connector located?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T13:33:59.070" Title="Where is Cadillac CTS 2007 3.6 OBD2 connector?" Tags="|computer|cadillac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21804" CreationDate="2015-10-16T13:13:00.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not an easy yes/no answer. In general it should be OK to leave your devices plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a cars electrical system is one of the nastiest places to connect electronics. There are voltage spikes, voltage dips, electromagnetic noise of all kinds and worst of all load dumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety of your electronics really depends on two factors. First, the condition of your electrical systems and battery. If you alternator fails it may create a huge spike in the system frying anything that's not well protected or unlucky. The battery not only starts your car but when the car is running it acts as an electrical &quot;shock absorber&quot; helping to stabilize the electrical system from spikes and dips. If the battery is marginal or the plates are sulfated it may not reduce a spike as well as it should. Second, is the quality of your devices car charger. The charger should have built in filtering and spike protection. If it's a crappy charger then all bets are off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really your decision whether you want to leave your electronics plugged in or not. There is some minisclue chance of something bad happening and if your electronics are unplugged they are safe but how much time will you waste unplugging and plugging things in being afraid of that event?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T13:13:00.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21805" CreationDate="2015-10-16T13:21:14.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The things that you pulled out are the ignition coils. If you want to check for spark get a spark tester. Plug the coil under test back into it's connector but still hanging out of the engine. Insert the spar tester into the coil where the spark plug would. Don't forget to ground the spark tester to the engine block. Crank the engine looking for a spark. Be careful not to shock yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to look at the spark plugs then you need to use a spark plug socket and an extension to reach the spark plug inside the hole that the coil came out of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T13:21:14.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2015-10-16T13:23:45.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, it's a bit of a throwback to carburettor equipped bikes - my motorbike, for example, can be a little bit unforgiving when it's cold and it's not nice to go to pull away and have the engine splutter. In fact, an inexperienced rider could easily fall off because of it! And, as you've highlighted, a badly set up bike might have issues idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the truth is that most motorcyclists &lt;em&gt;love&lt;/em&gt; the sound of their bike. We also don't have much else to do while waiting at lots - a drive might fiddle with their stereo, some bikers blip the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T13:23:45.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21917" CreationDate="2015-10-16T13:43:07.707" Score="3" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L won't start.  About a week ago I was playing with the air adjust screw ( taking it from full open to almost closed ) and it wouldn't start after that, so I assumed that was the problem, reopened it and after a few tries and waiting a bit it started and ran for ten minutes before I shut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week, tried starting it again.  It started ran for a second or two, then died.  Started it again and tried giving it gas, same thing happened.  Now I can't get it to start at all.  Thought I might be getting too much water condensing in the tank since it's been sitting with an almost empty tank in hot weather for quite a while, so I put in some IPA and an extra four liters of gas, but that so far hasn't helped.  Hope I don't have water in the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It reminds me of what happened when I disconnected the fuel pump on a different vehicle once to depressurize the fuel line before changing the fuel filter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I hooked up a scan tool while trying to crank it.  I looked at the live PIDs while trying to crank the engine and the only ones which stood out as looking unusual where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Live PID's&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1: -100%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolute throttle position: 10.98%  ---- Min=Avg=Max &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculated Load got up to 85% while cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference to the Freeze Frame later on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine coolant temperature: 80.6F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intake air temperature: 102.2F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1: 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also three stored DTC's, two pending ones and a freeze frame ( which I assume is related to the most recently occurring DTC ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stored&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/P0113/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0113&lt;/a&gt;: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/P0118/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0118&lt;/a&gt;: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtcsearch.com/P1409/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P1409&lt;/a&gt;: Mazda: Electronic vacuum regulator control - circuit malfunction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pending&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/P0122/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0122&lt;/a&gt;: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch &quot;A&quot; Circuit Low&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtcsearch.com/P1131/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P1131&lt;/a&gt;: Mazda: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) lean mixture indicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freeze Frame&lt;/strong&gt; ( Can there be more than one freeze frame? )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DTC: P0118&#xA;Fuel system status: Open-loop due to insufficient engine temperature&#xA;Calculated load value: 15.29%&#xA;Engine coolant temperature: -40F&#xA;Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1: 24.22%&#xA;Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1: 0&#xA;Engine RPM: 2544.5&#xA;Vehicle speed: 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discussion&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I verified there is a small vacuum leak from the number 3 lower injector seal, but it's not new and I don't think it's the cause of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant temp sensor was disconnected for a while while locating a coolant leak, and I've also started the engine with some vacuum lines disconnected once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things I don't think I can explain away are the TPS reading and the short term fuel trim.  I'm not sure about why the load got so high during cranking and if that's normal or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the throttle body off and cleaned it a few weeks ago, and last time I looked it was fully closing, although I guess it's possible it recently got stuck open a bit somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try resetting the ECU or clearing all codes and trying again to see what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should my next step be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After resetting all the DTCs the P1409 code went from stored to pending, and I still can't start the engine.  I hooked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forscan.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ForScan software&lt;/a&gt; which gives access to the ECU built in self tests and ran all I could.  Another code came up, &lt;code&gt;P1624 - Immobilizer communication count = 0&lt;/code&gt;, but I think that's OK as the previous owner disabled the immobilizer. Other than those two dtc's everything supported came up normal including the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For P1409 Forscan shows ( &lt;em&gt;EVR = Electronic Vacuum Regulator&lt;/em&gt; ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;===PCM DTC P1409===&#xA;Code: P1409 - EVR circuit fault&#xA;Module: Powertrain Control Module&#xA;Diagnostic Trouble Code details&#xA;EVR circuit fault&#xA;This DTC may be caused by :&#xA;Suspect EVR solenoid.&#xA;Open EVR circuit.&#xA;Shorted EVR circuit.&#xA;Shorted EVR wiring harness.&#xA;Suspect PCM.&#xA;===END PCM DTC P1409===&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda626.net/topic/35201-help-flashing-cel-light-and-rough-idle-at-times-code-p1409/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some posts&lt;/a&gt; which point to this being an &lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda626.net/topic/26337-2000-mazda-626-v6-p1409-check-engine-light-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EGR code&lt;/a&gt;, which is funny because I recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda626.net/topic/41067-egr-inspection-cleaning-1993-2002/page-2#entry393427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;checked the voltages on the EGR pins&lt;/a&gt; and they seemed to be in spec (23.7 ohms @ 90F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this has anything to do with my recent Seafoaming of the intake.  I've heard this can uncover problems with the EGR, although I'm not sure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the EGR is stuck open and that's why it won't start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned out the EGR solinoid was just unplugged, so I plugged it back in, but it still won't start and now when I try to connect to the ECU it fails with &lt;strong&gt;CAN ERROR: 3 ( 8.1% )&lt;/strong&gt;, whatever that means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T11:46:26.960" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T15:54:37.183" Title="Mazda 626 Won't Start" Tags="|starting|mazda|cold-start|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21742" CreationDate="2015-10-16T14:34:45.537" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause that was suggested by the technician is water condensation. After driving for a few more days the car no longer comes out of the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12647" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T14:34:45.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21807" CreationDate="2015-10-16T15:08:13.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be under the dash just to the right of the hood release (based on some internet searching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The connector itself should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLUkg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLUkg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most GM vehicles have it just beyond the dash plastic underneath. Since this is a Caddie, it may be under a panel. &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=oROk0G9i3QM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; may be of a little help to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T13:33:59.070" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T13:33:59.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24237" CreationDate="2015-10-16T17:53:18.150" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference in coil spring load between different engine options for the same model truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a 1993 C1500 with a 5.7L. Can I use coil springs from another 1993 C1500 but with a 4.3L or a 5.0L engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know they will fit, but will ride quality change?&#xA;In other words, are the springs for 5.7 stiffer than the 4.3 or 5.0L?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7609" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T19:38:22.257" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:57:23.367" Title="Coil Spring Load and Ride Quality" Tags="|chevrolet|suspension|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:28:51.030" Score="1" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my oil was empty 4 days after it was full. There is oil residue on the top of the engine and on the inside of the hood. I am wondering if this could be from a bad valve cover. It is a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE. Thank you in advance for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12703" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-17T00:01:55.243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T00:01:55.243" Title="Oil leaking, bad valve cover?" Tags="|engine|nissan|oil-leak|sentra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T09:41:21.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21817" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:45:57.650" Score="1" ViewCount="4259" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title states, what do I have to do to get through the drive cycle for OBD-II equipped GM vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T11:42:22.823" Title="What is the drive cycle for OBD-II equipped GM vehicles?" Tags="|obd-ii|gm|drive-cycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21816" CreationDate="2015-10-16T19:48:43.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html#gen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge &amp;quot;No Flow&amp;quot;, Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-04-26T11:42:22.823" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T11:42:22.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21778" CreationDate="2015-10-16T22:50:47.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said you don't want that really glossy look for your tire, perhaps a low gloss tire protectant spray might be the best alternative to help your tire bloom issue if you are unable to otherwise fix the issue with simple cleanings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T22:50:47.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-17T00:05:02.827" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I am really lost on this decided to rebuild my front total rebuild and new wheel bearings and hubs and level my truck and get bigger tires well after all of that my brakes would go to the floor when I turn my steering weel all the way (right or left) like when you hang a uie when going straight they work great. so I change my master cylinder and did a brake fluid flush still the same so I change my brake booster (hydro boost) still the same don't know what eles to do brake pads are fine wearing even.  Caliber Are not sticking. Just don't know thank you for any help. Truck has 45000 mil on it and it is. 2 wheel drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12704" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-17T00:11:32.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:28:15.257" Title="2006 Chevy 2500hd 6.0 gas. Brakes need help!" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-17T10:09:04.297" Score="2" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;06 Torrent V6 the temp gauge stopped working and the cooling fans run all the time when engine is running. I checked the relays and sensor plugs and they were fine, so I replaced the coolant temp sensor in the head and everything went back to normal, then a day later, the same symptoms returned. I replaced the replacement sensor and it started working like it was supposed to, then the next day it happened again. I am a mechanic with with professional experience going back to 1988, and before I went pro all the way back to the late 60's. I have never seen a sensor fail repeatedly like this and am in a quandry. Anyone out there had this experience. I have been on the internet looking and have had no luck. Remember I changed the original sensor with a new one, then when that one failed replaced it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-17T13:21:45.370" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T00:26:39.270" Title="06 Pontiac Torrent 3.8L V-6 temp gauge stopped working and cooling fans started running constantly when engine is running" Tags="|pontiac|sensor|gauges|temperature|torrent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21821" CreationDate="2015-10-17T13:23:20.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going back to the same source for the sensor, it could be there was a bad production run of the sensor: it could be a manufacturing defect. Try a different source for the sensor and see if it doesn't cure the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree this is a really strange issue. I have never seen where a single sensor would fail repeatedly. IMHO, it still boils down to the sensor itself. If it were getting fried because of over voltage, it would be affecting the computer as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing you may be able to check is to pull the plug at the senor and reattach it. If it comes back to life, it may be something which you're not seeing inside the plug which is causing it to lose connection. This is a long shot, but worth a look-see. (I know, you've probably tried this already.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T00:26:39.270" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T00:26:39.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-17T18:17:30.210" Score="2" ViewCount="4508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a strange starting issue with my 1998 Saturn SL (and it's left me stranded before). Today, it seems as though it will no longer start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the details - it's a 1998 Saturn SL, manual transmission. No power options except for ABS, so no power windows, locks, security system, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the symptoms. When I turn the ignition to ON, the fuel pump does engage (audibly); the fuel meter responds and all electrics turn on. Upon trying to start the car, I have no sound. No relay click, no starter sound, no cranking, nothing. The internal electrics don't go out at this point (not a battery issue, I know that one well) or dim. I am able to push-start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, the history - this has happened before, but it seemed to be a clutch safety switch issue and was intermittent. Waiting for a period of time would seem to resolve the issue (and as such I'm not sure if it was a temperature-based problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally thought that the issue might have been the clutch safety switch but replacing the switch and testing (with the pedal, and manually with my finger) did nothing. (Actually, thinking about it now, trying to start the car with the clutch out kills all of the electronics, I think - so I think the behavior is different.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know enough about cars to be dangerous (which means that I know nothing at all). I know that there's a starter relay behind the dashboard, and I was thinking about trying to replace this next, but I'd like to be able to target the problem area. Based on the symptoms above, how could I troubleshoot the issue? Where (besides the safety switch) are the potential problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11129" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T03:58:19.880" Title="1998 Saturn SL starting issue: no crank, no sound" Tags="|starting|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21826" CreationDate="2015-10-17T18:56:40.060" Score="6" ViewCount="21863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab slt with 4.7L Magnum V8. My check engine light came on when I was at work. I then drove 20 miles home to my house, pulled out my scan tool and discovered I had a misfire in cylinder 7. Next I cleared the code and drove about 20 miles the next day and at the very end of the day the check engine light came back on same code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting Work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched the coil packs on cylinder 1 and 7 cleared the code and let the car idle. The misfire in cylinder 7 code quickly reappeared. Next I felt the fuel injector and verified it was working. Finally, I tested the electrical system and found the coil was getting power. Now I have narrowed down the issue to the spark plug. Unfortunately, my spark plug removal tools are 10 miles away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time I get to the my spark plug tools I will have driven the car 50 miles plus sometime idling while troubleshooting. If the spark plug is not the issue and I have to take it in to a shop I could potentially drive it 50 more miles. Will this damage my catalytic or 02 sensors? Or any other component?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will driving my 2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab slt with a 4.7L Magnum V8, 100 miles with a cylinder 7 misfire damage my catalytic or 02 sensors? Or any other component? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12711" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T04:31:48.060" Title="Will Driving 100 Miles With a Misfire Damage My Car?" Tags="|exhaust|sparkplugs|catalytic-converter|misfire|dakota|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21825" CreationDate="2015-10-17T19:22:48.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I would recommend unplugging the connector to fuel injector #7 to minimize the amount of unburnt fuel that makes its way to the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T19:22:48.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21828" CreationDate="2015-10-17T20:15:01.823" Score="2" ViewCount="7718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ABS, DSC and handbrake warning light (the latter telling me it's likely from one of the rear wheels) on my BMW E46 320d from 2001. The warning used to be intermittent (it would go away, then come back), now it's continuous. The effect is that it sometimes cuts off the fuel flow, while increasing it at other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to read out the fault codes to know which ABS sensor to replace and this is what I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNIoR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNIoR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABS/DSC fault codes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 41 and 42 fault codes seem pretty standard to me, but I'm a bit confused with &quot;Connection of DME/DDE to CAN bus&quot;. The DME/DDE is the central computer, if I'm not mistaken, while the CAN bus is the housing you connect the ABS sensor to. Does this mean that something is wrong with the connection from the DME to the CAN bus or is this fault code merely the result of a faulty ABS sensor too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I proceed to order the part and replace the sensor or is there something else I should do (too)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T03:20:27.450" Title="Interpreting ABS/DSC fault code" Tags="|electrical|bmw|obd-ii|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21827" CreationDate="2015-10-17T20:54:53.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right to assume that error codes 41/42 are due to a lack of signal coming from the rear right wheel speed sensor. I recently had to address a couple of bad ones on my E39 BMW; the signal wire(s) may be brittle or cut so that signal transmission is no longer possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much about error code 95 at this point in time. The CAN bus is the messaging bus interface that enable the various sub-systems in the vehicle to talk to one another. I wouldn't be surprised if the error was a sporadic/one-off event. If you have access to BMW INPA it may give you further details about the exact conditions under which error code 95 was registered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wheel speed sensor is sorted out, clear the codes to see if error code 95 returns. If it does then this would confirm that the DTC was not a one-off or triggered by the faulty wheel speed sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T20:54:53.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-17T21:07:36.463" Score="4" ViewCount="2185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been racking my brains over this very odd issue. Here is the problem. I recently got this car (95 Honda Del Sol Si 5 spd 160k miles) as a second car. The previous owner claimed that the clutch had been changed fairly recently but I foolishly allowed their superficially nice personality to sway me and didn't demand paperwork. Unfortunately the car seems to have the following problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car is started cold, the idle stays high (1500 rpm) for a bit - I believe this is normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is odd is that while the idle of the car remains &gt; 1000 rpm, I am unable to shift the car to any gear while holding the clutch down. The gear lever just won't go into any gear. Trying to put it into reverse grinds so horribly that I stop quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the idle is &amp;lt;= 1000 rpm, the car is able to shift reasonably ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bled the clutch and verified that the master and slave cylinders aren't leaking on the outside. The clutch fluid I got out was nasty as heck (brown, black). This appeared to make no difference to the above behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed the transmission oil. No difference in behavior as well and the oil that came out of there was pretty brown.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusted the clutch freeplay. Original freeplay was over an inch (close to 2 IMO) and I was able to bring it to barely under an inch though I don't have much more adjustment left before I run out of threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas please? Is this transmission shot or is there a less expensive explanation/fix? EDITS: updated list of done tasks and moved history/context to the top paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:29:59.320" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:29:59.320" Title="95 Honda Del Sol Si manual won't go into gear when idle &gt; 1000 rpm" Tags="|honda|civic|clutch|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21824" CreationDate="2015-10-17T21:09:06.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter relay would definitely be my next port of call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it might not be a bad relay that is the issue. Since the relay serves as a bridge between a small &quot;controller&quot; circuit and the actual starter circuit, a couple of other possibilities do exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an open circuit on the controller side, so either a bad ignition switch or physical break in the wiring&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an incomplete starter circuit (again, physical break)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a bad starter, though the usual symptom is that it'll make some noise when the key in the ignition is turned to the &quot;Start&quot; position before jamming up&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T21:09:06.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21827" CreationDate="2015-10-17T23:09:51.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be noted that the heads of the sensors get stuck with metal flakes from the brakes wearing down. That has caused a few BMW's we have had through my shop to throw those codes, we cleaned the sensor first and reset the codes as an option for customers. Its an option if you can't get the sensors in a timely fashion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T23:09:51.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21825" CreationDate="2015-10-17T23:12:35.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you have that spark plug out, i would highly recommend doing a compression check on that cylinder while you have everything off/out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T23:12:35.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21829" CreationDate="2015-10-18T09:27:57.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't leave a comment. I asked my tech who loves hondas and races them for the past 10+ years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you adjusted the clutch pedal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading what you have already posted, that was his &quot;less expensive&quot; repair/suggestion. So his suggestion goes along with the &quot;firewall&quot; flex comment above. After that he suggested a new clutch and throwout bearing, flywheel. His explanation was when metal gets hot it expands and thats why you get the clutch to function after warming up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T09:27:57.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21824" CreationDate="2015-10-18T11:29:04.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;based on that whole set of tries... your ignition switch would be questionable... or trying to start the car while someone takes a hammer or a bar and bangs on the starter for a dead spot. other than a bad key. keep us posted... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T11:29:04.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T13:25:40.777" Score="3" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda 2003 VTX 1300 S Retro that will not start without a jump. I just purchased a new battery on line (Chinese) for this type of bike charged it and still getting the same results as before. Yet if I jump the bike with my car its starts? Please help&#xA;Thanks&#xA;Ruben...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12715" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T15:33:41.167" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T15:33:41.167" Title="Problems with starting my Motorcycle" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-10T15:17:58.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T17:15:18.280" Score="4" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a couple of posts here about blower fans that only operate on high speed, but the issue I'm having is the opposite. All of the fan speeds work except for the highest speed (really the only one that's useful :P )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking the issue was the switch controlling the fan, I've already replaced the control module in the dash to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a '95 Chevy Blazer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to trouble shoot it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:48:07.700" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:48:07.700" Title="Highest Fan Speed on AC/Heater Blower no longer works." Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|ac|fan|blazer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T20:14:14.587" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Civic 1995 that suddenly didn't start after a day or two of not being used. I managed to start it with starter cables and drive but when I turned it off I did not start again. I didn't have time to look into what the problem was then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days later I tried to start it again with jumper cables but absolutely nothing happened. I tried another battery that I'm sure is good and it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it might be the alternator or the starter that causes this problem but when I asked on a few forums some guy told me it probably was the distributor and now I'm very confused and not really sure what I can and should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T13:13:12.490" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:13:12.490" Title="Car doesn't start, cranked at first but now it doesn't" Tags="|honda|battery|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T20:44:45.787" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving home the car coughed a couple of times then stopped. We tried to start it and it wont start not even click all the lights still work and the dash still lights up the radio even still plays but it will not turn over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is bad can it cause the car to die while driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T01:45:35.373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T01:45:35.373" Title="2007 Ford Focus wagon" Tags="|ford|starting|focus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21841" CreationDate="2015-10-18T21:31:06.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine says the starter motor is not the fault, when the car has started it won't just stop via the starter motor, even to the point where it can physically be removed.&#xA;He says it maybe the ecu main feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12723" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T21:31:06.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2531" CreationDate="2015-10-18T22:23:55.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread, but I am disheartened by the inaccuracy of the replies.  Your &quot;key&quot; which is really a fob, runs on a coin shaped battery, namely, a CR2032.  They can be purchased most anywhere (picked my two-pack at W-Mart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google replacement of the battery for this fob and you will find more than adequate info on how to proceed - it is really very simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck (you've probably solved your problem by now, but perhaps others can benefit - I know I did from other similar threads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caruso&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12724" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T22:23:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:41:21.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem, but another forum suggested that the key in their 98 GC can be removed one click past the OFF position, in the ACC on position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough, I checked mine and found the battery drain was due to the key switch being left in ACC and then being removed. The key shouldn't come out there but it does. I screwed a small metal bracket to stop the key switch from going to ACC on. Problem solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:34:17.653" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:34:17.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2015-10-18T23:56:29.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a starter problem by what I've read. Make sure your cable going to the starter is tight, and the ground going to the block. Like Paulster suggests, make sure the battery is good. Even a new battery can be bad, I know this from my own experience. good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T23:56:29.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T04:08:12.047" Score="17" ViewCount="184276" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6tiJY.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6tiJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire with bead damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my front passenger tire. As you can see, there is a large crack where you can see wire underneath. I ordered new tires that are supposed to arrive on Friday, however, I still need to get to &amp;amp; from work every day this week (approximately 10 miles of highway x2 per day). Is this tire safe to drive to work, or should I wait to drive it directly to the mechanic to change out the tires when they arrive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12727" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T09:31:56.103" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T09:31:56.103" Title="Is a tire with exposed wire safe to drive on?" Tags="|tires|safety|damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2015-10-19T07:15:15.973" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only advice anyone could possibly give about this tire is that it should not be taken on the road.  Out of respect for other peoples lives, the car should not be driven with even one tire like that on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T07:15:15.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T11:23:53.847" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car has a new battery and new starter, but no thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery seems to be drained - the headlights will not come on, there is no clicking sound when I try to start and it won't even crank. It 30 degrees outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the absence of thermostat do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12733" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T12:02:02.240" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T12:53:47.367" Title="1998 Galant not starting, has no thermostat" Tags="|starting|mitsubishi|thermostat|galant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2015-10-19T11:44:32.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, it would be &lt;strong&gt;illegal&lt;/strong&gt; to drive on this tyre. Therefore, if you were stopped by the police, they would have the right to stop you driving further, order a tow-truck to collect your car and remove it. They could then fine you and charge you for the costs of towing and returning your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about other countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12734" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T11:44:32.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21848" CreationDate="2015-10-19T11:45:04.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thermostat disabling all electricity is unlikely. If you have a multimeter or voltmeter, check that your battery is charged, even new ones can be faulty. It should be over 12V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has and still nothing electrical works (interior lights, ignition etc.) make sure the cables that connects your battery are clean and tight, where attached to the chassis as well as on the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check that your vehicle doesn't have a main switch that is turned off (check users manual or follow your battery cables).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T11:45:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21848" CreationDate="2015-10-19T12:36:04.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the '98 Galant has a mechanical thermostat, it should start even with the thermostat removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T12:53:47.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T12:53:47.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21804" CreationDate="2015-10-19T13:25:39.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's quite safe. When you start your car, there is a huge &lt;strong&gt;drop&lt;/strong&gt; in battery power, not surge (remember how your lights dim the moment you start). Now, the undervoltage is not good for electronics either, but typical gadgets have 5V input and use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/4hcAAOSwv0tVHH-N/$_35.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adapter&lt;/a&gt; (a buck converter actually) to transform 12V to 5V. Such converters are usually rated for a wide input voltage range (something up to 15V) and require about 2V for themselves to work correctly, so as long as the battery voltage doesn't drop below 7V or so, your gadgets don't even see any change on their power line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a second line of defence, most gadgets have an internal battery to fall back on, should the input voltage become unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a personal experience, I have been using a GPS plugged into my cigarette lighter for 3 years now. I also use a dashcam, which I unplug only when I need to charge the bluetooth handsfree or several of my mobile phones. None of these devices have had any power-related issues. If anything, I can suggest you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; unplug the gadgets unnecessarily, since the only issue I've had is my GPS power cable broke down because of repetitive unplugging (I prefer to remove the GPS from the car when I leave it on the streets overnight). Not that it proves anything, but I suppose it stands as confirmation for the things said above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T13:32:13.500" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T13:32:13.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T14:51:28.597" Score="7" ViewCount="6849" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I find out what the Series number is on my Briggs and Stratton Engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found, and do know the model, type, and code of my engine, but I am looking for the Series number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm looking for a tune-up kit for my Briggs and Stratton engine, the tune-up kit packages list the Series numbers for the engines that they fit.  However, there is nothing on my engine (model, type, or code) that matches this series number, and I can't find any cross-reference charts to match it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to find the correct tune-up kit without having to ask my dealer to look it up.  Also it's just annoying that the tune-up kit's matching models are displayed so prominently as a reference, but that information is no where to be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called my dealer, and they were no help.  He said, &quot;Everything we do is based on model, type, and code.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/shop/parts-and-accessories/tune-up-kits/5140web-tune-up-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a tune-up kit&lt;/a&gt;.  The description shows exactly what I mean when it lists the Series numbers in this line: &quot;&lt;em&gt;This Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton Genuine Tune-Up Kit is designed exclusively for 625e, 675ex, 725ex Series™, 625-675 Series™ and Quantum™ 3.5-6.75 gross HP‡ push mower engines&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the information I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DOM NOV 2010&#xA;128T02-3124-B1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that this means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model: &lt;code&gt;128T02&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type: &lt;code&gt;3124&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Code: &lt;code&gt;B1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7574" LastEditorUserId="7574" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:16:07.087" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T21:41:22.280" Title="How do I find out what the Series number is on my Briggs and Stratton Engine?" Tags="|small-engine|briggs-stratton|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21744" CreationDate="2015-10-19T15:16:59.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While technically a different tire has a different pressure which gets you the best performance on a particular car, there is no way for you to know that pressure, and &lt;strong&gt;the recommended pressure is the best estimate you have&lt;/strong&gt;. In fact, the optimum tire pressure depends on many factors (load and temperature, just to mention a couple). Think of race cars for which the decision on the tire pressure is made on the day of the race, and can even change on a pit-stop. A few pointers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing tire pressure reduces fuel consumption to some degree. Just remember that going largely out of spec (by more than 0.5 bar) is playing with safety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decreasing the tire pressure below the spec increases the risk of aquaplaning. While the opposite is also true to some degree, the recommended pressure is calculated with aquaplaning in mind, so increasing it further won't make your car immune to the phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Changing the ratio between tire pressure on front/rear may worsen the handling by making your car oversteer or understeer. Oversteer appears when your rear tires are overinflated compared to front tires (and understeer in the opposite case). Also keep in mind that front/rear ratio is often dependent on the load. For example, my car has recommended pressure of 2.4/2.2 bar front/rear when driving alone, and 2.6/2.8 bar with maximum load.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I tend to inflate slightly above the recommended pressure to make sure aquaplaning is manageable even if I didn't check the pressure recently and my tires deflated a bit since I last inflated them. I also try to respect the recommended front/rear balance, inflating rear tires more when going on vacation and deflating them when I come back to lone driving. Note that not all cars require increased rear pressure to deal with load: check the manual for &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I worked for 3 years in Goodyear R&amp;amp;D center, if you think such things matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T15:16:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:04:07.480" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help just got home and have gone to do my electric windows up and non of them will go up I had an issue with the passenger side switch not doing the window up but would do it down but now non work at all and my windows are stuck down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11680" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T08:15:21.173" Title="electric windows broken" Tags="|electrical|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:39:44.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;as mach1shotgun suggested check your wires. I too have seen bad batteries from the store (I was a manager at a large parts store for a few years). I would personally start with making sure you can't twist the battery cables when they are installed on the car. If they are loose you will find that you experience exactly what you are talking about. Options are to get new battery cables and replace the old ones (if memory serves me I think replacing both will be around $30). You could get the generic replacement ones for I think 5$. This requires you to cut the old, strip your wires back and clamp... Or if you are in a pinch (and I highly don't recommend it as it can split your clamp) use some small skinny piece of metal to make the connection snug. Once you can't twist the cables side to side it is tight enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after those are tightened up continue to monitor it. For sanity check you can have Advance Auto parts, Auto zone, and a few others check your battery. If your battery checks out and the cables are tight then yes it would be your starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for the distributor being the problem... No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12739" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T16:39:44.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21778" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:41:06.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my specific case, I called the distributor (Tire Rack - not sure if mentioning them is allowed, but it's a positive experience and I'm not affiliated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They saw that the brown stain was in the same pattern on every tire and &quot;deduced&quot; that it was something on the tire, not a problem with the tire itself. They recommended using &quot;Goof Off&quot; to spray on the tires. I got the &quot;Heavy Duty Spray&quot; strength, mentioning this because there were about 20 strengths to choose from. I actually couldn't find it at an auto parts store as it's more of a home improvement item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested on a small section and it seems like the brown has finally permanently been removed. It's been black for 2 days and actually the rest of the tire which was &quot;black&quot; before looks brownish by comparison. I plan to apply it to all 4 tires and will follow up if this changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="617" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T20:08:36.193" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T20:08:36.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T17:13:44.527" Score="4" ViewCount="11276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the battery on my 2013 Honda Civic. I gotta take off the hold down bracket but there is a little cap on top of the bracket nut that's keeping the cables (needlessly) secure. Before I do what I'd usually do, break it off, I was wondering if there is a trick in removing this cap? I tried pulling very hard on it and tried using a plier and squeezing the cap and pulling up. Nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZRUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZRUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried looking online but I can't find anything about it. Maybe because I don't know what that cap is really called. There is a youtube of a battery replacement for the previous Civic model and all he did was pull on it, I tried that, hard, again nothing. Really irks me when car manufacturers do things like this :-(  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12740" LastActivityDate="2021-09-12T10:24:57.580" Title="2013 Honda Civic battery hold down bracket plastic cap wont come off" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17636" CreationDate="2015-10-19T20:30:17.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A socket wrench is like a small steel tube - one end has ridges that fit precisely around a bolt. The other end often has an opening of 1/4&quot;, 3/8&quot;, or 1/2&quot; square. This end receives the protruded part of a ratchet with the same dimension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most torque wrenches look like a larger version of a ratchet -- in fact, it often also has a ratchet mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a torque wrench is to measure the precise amount of pressure you use to tighten down a bolt. Generally, you do this by placing a Socket wrench for the bolt size in question onto a Torque wrench. You will then dial (usually on the handle end) to the amount of torque the specification calls for -- usually in Foot lbs or Inch lbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Affix the bolt receiving end to the bolt and tighten, clockwise. You will hear a clicking sound when you have reached the indicated torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, a Torque wrench is used to measure the precise amount of pressure(torque) applied to a bolt. This is usually done to assure you do not over-tighten the bolt and thereby strip threads AND/OR assure you do not under-tighten and the bolt gets loose while you are operating the bike(a rather dangerous situation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A torque wrench can cost over $50.00, and you will likely rarely use it. You might just tighten the noted nuts/bolts firmly, then take it to a local bike shop and ask if it is tightened enough. They might take a torque wench to it to check it out. However, experienced assemblers generally just firmly tighten --unless it's a high-end bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are less expensive -- but less precise --torque wrenches available. You would still affix a socket wrench on it. Difference: instead of a dial adjuster on the handle with the audible click, it has a floating pointer that points to the measurement imprinted at the head of this wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to buy a torque wrench, they are available at Sears, Home Depot, and probably at most large auto parts stores(Pep Boys, Kragen, etc). Some of these auto parts stores might even allow you to rent one. &#xA;You can also buy the needed socket wrench at these same stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T21:38:27.643" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T21:38:27.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21862" CreationDate="2015-10-19T20:33:26.537" Score="9" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively new car with nice clean paint. I've read and been told that cleaning bugs and bird debris off of my car quickly is important because it can damage the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to wash it off quickly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it really damage the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T23:18:33.167" Title="Why should I clean bug and bird debris off my car?" Tags="|cleaning|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21861" CreationDate="2015-10-19T20:33:26.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should try to remove it as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a bug is smashed into the front of your car all of its guts are allowed to mix together. Most bugs will result in an acidic goop that sticks to your car. You can see it on your windshield, but you won't see it very well on your front grille until the damage starts to accumulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This acid will etch and scrape into the clearcoat paint, then eventually it will work its way deeper and cause deep damage. This kind of damage can only be properly repaired by a paint shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar reactions happen with bird debris. The goop will sit and etch into the paint, causing weakening of the clearcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what happens if you leave bird droppings too long:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16r1f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16r1f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bird damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to have long lasting paint that looks good, it is important to get any damaging material off of the paint quickly. With modern bug and tar remover products available at your local auto care center the job shouldn't take more than a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T23:18:33.167" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T23:18:33.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T21:54:19.157" Score="0" ViewCount="3218" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I replace the cam shaft position switch and/or actuator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12748" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T23:10:51.360" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T05:52:50.963" Title="My 2011 Equinox check engine light came on. I had it coded - read P0013" Tags="|chevrolet|equinox|p0013|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21869" CreationDate="2015-10-19T22:24:46.030" Score="4" ViewCount="5538" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new tires, within a couple weeks after purchase I ran over a screw, and had to get one tire patched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after the patch, the tire loses about 4 psi per week. It's a very slow leak and I've just been topping it off every Monday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the patch be a bit leaky? Is that normal? Should I have the tire patched again? Spraying soapy water has not identified anything obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T19:00:29.717" Title="Should I be concerned about a very slow leak in a patched tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21868" CreationDate="2015-10-19T23:08:50.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get it patched if for no other reason than to ensure it stays up. When the tire gets low and you drive on it, there is extra heat which is generated through the tire. This can lead to premature tire failure. If you forget to do it for a couple extra days, then it might be 6psi low, or something greater. This would lead to greater heat and tire wear, as well as putting your vehicle, yourself, and your passengers at risk, let alone the people driving around you. For piece of mind, get the tire fixed &lt;em&gt;correctly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T19:00:29.717" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T19:00:29.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21858" CreationDate="2015-10-19T23:21:14.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just grab hold of it and pull up while wiggling it back and forth. It should come right up. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_xEO389DOc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Please view this video&lt;/a&gt; as he shows exactly what I mean about 30 seconds in. Don't be afraid of it, just get in there and do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T23:21:14.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2015-10-20T00:39:46.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely these things in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad tires:  Could be worn, not balanced right, or a broken belt.  Try rotating tires to see if that helps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad alignment:  could be slightly off and It leads to shaking at high speess&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad balljoints/tie rods:  Tires that arnt true will give a bad shaking and therefore lead to alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12754" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T00:39:46.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T01:42:13.030" Score="2" ViewCount="7367" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many other brake squeal questions but the symptoms in the case of my car are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After driving for about 5 miles, I hear loud squealing noises from the wheel wells when I turn right or I drive up a sloping road. The speed of the car does not make a difference. The noise goes away when I apply the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car to the dealer and they said the brake pads were not getting worn uniformly because I go very easy on the brakes - apparently there is 8 mm still left on a brake pad of 10 mm thickness after driving 30k miles. They said if the brakes are always applied lightly, then the pads do not wear uniformly because all parts of the pad do not make contact with the rotor causing this squeal and that the noise would go away after some time if I start braking normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the dealer's explanation make sense? Is it a known fact that always braking lightly will cause the brake pad to not wear away uniformly causing a squeal? If so why does it squeal only when turning right or driving up a slope?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12755" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T04:46:20.367" Title="Brake squeal when driving up a slope or turning right" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21880" CreationDate="2015-10-20T04:12:24.743" Score="10" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend who drives a Leaf recently came very close to running out of charge, which prompted another friend to ask if it was possible to &quot;jumpstart&quot; a Leaf from another car.  Obviously you couldn't do that in the usual way, but in principle you could use another car as a generator to charge the battery.  In practice, is there a convenient way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7813" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T11:35:11.043" Title="Can a conventional car be used to charge an electric car?" Tags="|jump-start|charging|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2015-10-20T07:56:33.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others pointed out, it is not safe to drive on this tire. This is the perfect time, to take your bicycle out of the garage to go to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 miles (16 km) won't take you much longer than 45 minutes. Put a fresh shirt and underpants in your backpack, because if you are untrained, it will make you sweat. But at the end of the week, when your new tires arrive, you don't want to miss the healthy ride in the morning and evening anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12758" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T07:56:33.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21874" CreationDate="2015-10-20T08:07:42.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert on electric vehicles, but I believe that they are only equipped to charge of mains (110v, 220v) household electric.  Since non-electric cars usually only have 12v electric circuits, this would not be possible without an 'inverter' to step the voltage up to mains voltages.  Even with this, you would probably have to sit with 'jump leads' on for several hours to get a charge to get you home.  You would probably be better towing the electric vehicle to a charge point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T08:07:42.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2015-10-20T08:09:02.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire in the photograph is not safe to drive on, but that does not mean that you cannot drive the vehicle to work. If the vehicle has a &lt;strong&gt;full-size spare&lt;/strong&gt; tire, then &lt;strong&gt;replace the worn tire with the spare&lt;/strong&gt;, and use the worn tire as a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in fact you do need to use the worn tire as a spare, then &lt;strong&gt;keep the speed below 50 KPH / 30 MPH&lt;/strong&gt;. That speed is often considered the speed at which the rotating stresses on the tire approach or exceed the weight stresses on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that your worn tire is &lt;strong&gt;not worn evenly&lt;/strong&gt;. That likely means that your &lt;strong&gt;front-end needs to be properly aligned&lt;/strong&gt;, lest you wear out the new tires in short order as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T08:09:02.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21855" CreationDate="2015-10-20T08:15:21.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience this problem myself. After I bypass the switch by unplugging it and finding the hot up and hot down wires at the switch and make sure the windows do in fact go up and down, then I know it is the switch. Sometimes the contacts inside the switch get dirty and wont put the current through to the windows. I have removed the window switches and soaked them in purified water for an hour or so then blown them out with compressed air, spray some WD-40 in them and give that a try. If that doesnt work. Buy a new switch, or once you know it's the switch, buy a new switch and forget it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T08:15:21.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21874" CreationDate="2015-10-20T12:03:59.220" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, you might be able to, but not in a feasible way in any likely manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric Vehicles commonly have two separate electric circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One running at the normal 12V, which ties to all the common electronics that all other types of cars have. Light bulbs, radios, in many cases also a starter motor for the gasoline engine if it in fact has one those (which the Leaf doesn't if I'm not mistaken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other runs at a voltage ranging between 96V and nearer 300V (depending on brand and such), which drives the motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For why? You may ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, if the electric motor is 30kW, which is very modest for where the Electric cars are headed, but I'd imagine a Leaf being somewhere near that, that would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30000W / 12V = 2500A at 12V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30000W / 48V = 625A at 48V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30000W / 96V = 312.5A at 96V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30000W / 150V = 200A at 150V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30000W / 300V = 100A at 300V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, getting that power to the motors takes quite an insane current at only 12V and relaistically it only starts becoming really feasible at 150V.&#xA;Some cars then have a 96V battery, I believe, and drive the engines such that the final wiring, for the longer part towards the motor effectively runs at hundreds of volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even having the controller doing that right next to the batteries, 2500A for 12V input would mean adding extra support beams, if you look at the cross section of metal needed to sustain that somewhat loss free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you want to do that you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A step-up converter from 12V to whatever is needed (which may differ between brands, unless you use the 230VAC input)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run your engine at 3000rpm+ to get maximum alternator output (wasting a lot of fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thick Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a HUGE amount of patience (and fuel), since your alternator usually can only supply 1.5 to 5kW of power, depending on your car's size and type, of which some is always wasted by the car itself. (And those batteries usually range from 10kWh to 80kWh, AFAIK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;EDIT/Addition based on your comment:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, from memory a plug-in Prius has 4kWh spare power, with an actual range of about 15km flat roads (here in the Netherlands is a very good place to get those numbers), which is about 10miles, give or take. In some situations it may be 15miles, and I believe they blue-sky report 18-ish miles themselves. Regardless, the mile charge requirement for such a car is likely between 0.3 and 0.8kWh depending on the trip. Maybe the leaf gets 0.25kWh per mile average, because it has no fuel system to lug around, but I know only people with Plug-In Priusses and Plug-In Outlanders, and factory data is not to be trusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely the car charging can actually supply 1.5kW to the outside, since the alternators get designed for about ({everything the car needs} + {what could possibly be added})*1.3; so that usually leaves no more than 50% of the actual alternator power, usually less, to be gotten from the car, while running at the engine speed at which the alternator is at optimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how I say &amp;quot;alternator at optimum&amp;quot; this speed is nearly never the best unloaded operating point of the engine, so your fuel consumption will be very much sub-optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'd make a real-world estimation, you could possibly take out 600W (=50A already!!) from any medium-size car, maybe 1kW from a large one, a small/efficient car will not enjoy giving you more than 400W at &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt;. So, let's blue-sky this, knowing it will never work out this positively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a source of 1kW at 12V, or you know what, blue-sky: 15V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means: 1000W / 15V =~ 66A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have 10mm^2 cables (quite thick for jumpers already) running to the converter that turns it into 300VDC (again, blue-sky, you take the highest voltage that's feasible, to allow a lower current, which allows lower losses, but we'll see that soon enough), these cables are a measly 3meters in total (so 1.5meter each) and connected at the alternator, so no losses inside the car itself (again very blue sky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable then has about 2 mili Ohm per meter, gives a reduction of 132 millivolt per meter, is a total reduction of 0.39V (unfairly rounded down for blue-sky) in the cables. Peanuts, right? Does mean, however that your power has already dropped by 26W:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power at converter: ~66A * (15V - 0.39V) =~ 974W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's not even considering the contact resistance of 5 to 35 milli Ohm per clamp, which would take away a minimum of another 44W. But, we will ignore that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, up-converting that to a high voltage is not lossless. Technically at these scales the best you can hope for on any realistic budget is 85% efficiency. So, we'll happily round that up to 90%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Output Power at the Converter at 300V: 0.9 * 974W =~ 877W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 300V that is only: 877W / 300V =~ 2.9A , which you can easily transport over 5meter in a pair of 3mm^2 cables, as they will be about 6 to 7 milli Ohm per meter, making for a loss over 10meters of complete path of only 0.7W, and since at this point we've already imagined away close to 80W in losses, we can easily ignore that. Same goes for connector losses. Also assumed to be zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at the car we are allowed in this blue-sky world to imagine it being a nice constant stream of 877W at 300V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is highly unlikely the car itself has no electronics, since it will have an input range (e.g. 250V to 350V). So, there is the conversion loss again, but probably going the other way, from 300V to 180-ish volt maybe? Either way, if it's only drop or boost, it may be assumed to be around the same 85% efficiency. Again, we'll blue-sky that up to 90%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, towards the battery we get: 877W * 0.9 =~ 789W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to now assume any kind of battery just absorbs that and then delivers that right to the motor. Very forward looking cars have some form of conditioned Lithium based cell, which would offer a base absorption of up to 97% in practice when charged at 1/10th their capacity. Luckily at 18kWh this is 1/10th or less, so that's fine. As a note, there are quite a few brand at the time of writing that still use NiCd, which have a much lower charging efficiency. It would be fairer to say, in a finished storage product featuring Lithium based cells it's likely to hang around 92%, due to the required conditioning and margin over life time. (Over 10 years this margin is still greatly optimistic, by the way!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'll just use the 97% as the final number: Battery Stored Energy per unit time: 0.97*789 = 765W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miles per hour charged, if I'm allowed to switch back to slightly more realistic than perfect blue-sky, with 382.5Wh per mile, would be 2 miles per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you ran out only 4 miles away from a place where you'd be comfortable staying until it's charged enough to continue, you'd need at least 2 hours, but then knowing that if it's a bit colder than &amp;quot;specification temperature&amp;quot; for the parts, you may end up running out half a mile before you get there if you're too tight on the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to then completely answer your comment: Bear in mind, that whether you're waiting for a friend to tow you, or a friend to charge you, you're waiting for that friend, regardless. So you're effectively adding 2 hours to that wait time. And it'll have to be a friend with a car that supplies 1kW at a jumper-capable point, so you're already cutting out a group of friends just on that requirement making your chances even slimmer. Although, I do find, that people with smaller cars in certain cultures tend to be happier to wait for 4 hours than people with larger cars to wait for 2, but I'm not a sociologist, so I'll leave that out of consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and also spending at least 20 times (gut feeling it's more like 100 times) the amount of fuel towing someone with an electric vehicle in &amp;quot;release&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;unclutched&amp;quot; mode over 4 miles would cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10858" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T17:27:27.997" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T12:43:48.890" Score="1" ViewCount="5919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cigarette lighter hole in my car that produces 12V. I bought a cigarette lighter extender that has 3 cigarette holes and each hole has 12V so that's 36V instead of 12V. Will that damage my battery? What are the cons to my battery or engine of having that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastEditorUserId="10790" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T15:59:52.797" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T22:15:23.197" Title="Impact of cigarette lighter ports on car battery" Tags="|engine|battery|jeep|wrangler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21883" CreationDate="2015-10-20T12:53:05.510" Score="4" ViewCount="29804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the battery on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L about a month ago.  I haven't driven it for about two weeks, and noticed the voltage is down from about 12.57 to 12.02 so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed that white powder had formed on the bracket used to hold down the battery.  The battery terminals are clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ww2qK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ww2qK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure when this started.  I was worried about the battery running down due to it not being driven, so I did hook it up to my other car for about ten minutes to try and give it a little charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T02:53:02.720" Title="White Powder Forming on Battery Hold Down Bracket" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21882" CreationDate="2015-10-20T13:20:40.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;what you are looking at is corrosion caused by the gasses from normal battery operation reacting with the metal of the bracket.&#xA;fix 1 (minimal)&#xA;put 2 table spoons of &quot;bicarb of soda&quot; into a couple of liters of warm water and pour over corrosion, this will neutralize the acid and clean the area, gently hose around the battery and below with a garden hose to remove any other residue. &#xA;fix 2 (upgrade)&#xA; remove the battery bracket and paint with any oil based enamel, a spray can is cheap. this will prevent further corrosion by removing bare metal exposure as in your pic.&#xA;car batteries usually run around 13.5v but will work fine at a bit lower voltage &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T13:20:40.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T13:40:32.753" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Mustang GT makes funny noise when starting, and lately disconnects my Clock and radio. Would that mean that I need a new starter or do I have electrical problems?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12766" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T22:50:49.283" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T22:50:49.283" Title="Starter or Electrical?" Tags="|electrical|ford|starter|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21881" CreationDate="2015-10-20T13:41:16.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a cigarette lighter hole in my car that produces 12W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not true. The cigarette lighter port/power outlet outputs &lt;strong&gt;12 V&lt;/strong&gt; (volts, not watts). The power consumed will be determined by the appliance that is plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of power outlets in the vehicle is of no consequence; if nothing is plugged into them then they will have no impact on the vehicle's battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T13:41:16.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21881" CreationDate="2015-10-20T14:54:03.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The socket on the car will be protected by a fuse, if you draw too much current you will blow the fuse, so there should be nothing to worry about with the car.  However if it is a cheap adapter and you draw a lot of current through it, the adapter may start to get hot.  If you are powering electronic items like a sat-nav and not 3 cigarette lighter elements, then you are unlikely to overload the adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T14:54:03.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T16:28:22.787" Score="5" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;06 Solstice. Again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an intermittent check engine light. I hooked up the laptop to the car this morning and found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Immature)   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (History)&#xA;(Immature)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0833 - Clutch Pedal Switch B Circuit (Immature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0833 is a new one. I'm not sure exactly what would make a clutch pedal switch &quot;immature.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential vacuum leak: I can hear a steady hissing sound near the intake manifold, but it's not clear where it is coming from. Other than an occasional rough start - starts fine but stumbles and hunts for a few seconds - I don't see any indication of a vacuum leak. My boost gauge registers -20PSI vacuum at idle, which is about where it's always been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the intake manifold on this engine (Ecotec 2.4L LE5, inline 4 cylinder) has o-rings in the manifold, and doesn't use a gasket. A quick check with a ratchet indicates that it's tight, and I don't see any obvious broken or loose hoses. Still, probably worth investigating further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appear to need a new valve cover gasket - seeing some oil around the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last weekend, the car got pretty hot (~235F) at an autocross. I noticed some coolant smoke/steam coming from near the turbo and cat, but it's inconsistent and very slight. It's been suggested that, when I replace the valve cover gasket, I make sure that the head bolts are torqued correctly as they could have loosened up when the engine got hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly related: I ran a compression check and found (from front of engine) 120, 120, 140, 140. Spec for this engine is closer to 150, but it's running fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When idling, the temp will climb from ~190F to ~203F and go back down. Doesn't really happen when driving. Water pump and thermostat were replaced a few weeks ago along with the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah - it's a &quot;new&quot; engine. It's possible something was overlooked during the install. (Shop installed the engine, not me this time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? Please ask if I've omitted any crucial information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it idles high (around 1500 RPM) most of the time. After sitting at a light for awhile it will sometimes drop back to 1000 or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:52:31.423" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:52:31.423" Title="Intermittent CEL, several codes" Tags="|cel|intermittent-problems|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T16:40:36.660" Score="4" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that I had to replace my alternator with a Bosch brand because no other brands will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Do I only have one option and I must get the Bosch because no other brand will work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12771" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T17:42:16.527" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T15:00:19.160" Title="Does the alternator have to be a Bosch?" Tags="|troubleshooting|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21891" CreationDate="2015-10-20T17:41:09.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, it doesn't have to be a Bosch.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, it looks like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/130d763/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OEM alternator is made by Delphi&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website linked also lists the models that share this alternator (model &lt;em&gt;130D763&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Make        Model       Engine               Model Years &#xA;CHEVROLET   CAMARO      3.8L V6              1996-1999 &#xA;CHEVROLET   CAVALIER    2.2L L4 BI-FUEL      1999 2002 &#xA;CHEVROLET   CAVALIER    2.2L L4 CNG          2001 2001 &#xA;CHEVROLET   CAVALIER    2.2L L4 OHV          1999 2002 &#xA;CHEVROLET   CAVALIER    2.4L L4              1996 2002 &#xA;CHEVROLET   MALIBU      2.4L L4              1997 1999 &#xA;CHEVROLET   MALIBU      3.1L V6              1997 1999 &#xA;CHEVROLET   MONTE CARLO 3.8L V6              1998 1998 &#xA;OLDSMOBILE  ALERO       3.4L V6              1999 2003 &#xA;OLDSMOBILE  BRAVADA     4.3L V6              1998 2000 &#xA;OLDSMOBILE  CUTLASS     3.1L V6              1997 1999 &#xA;PONTIAC     GRAND AM    2.4L L4              1996 1998 &#xA;PONTIAC     GRAND AM    3.4L V6              1999 2003 &#xA;PONTIAC     GRAND PRIX  3.8L V6              1998 1998 &#xA;PONTIAC     GRAND PRIX  3.8L V6 Supercharged 1998 1998 &#xA;PONTIAC     SUNFIRE     2.2L L4 OHV          1999 2002 &#xA;PONTIAC     SUNFIRE     2.4L L4              1996 1998 &#xA;PONTIAC     SUNFIRE     2.4L L4              1999 2002 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T18:02:08.953" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T18:02:08.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21893" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-20T18:33:08.040" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T18:33:08.040" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T18:33:08.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21894" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-20T18:33:08.040" Score="0" Body="Family car made by Volkswagen since 1973." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T20:45:51.350" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:45:51.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21890" CreationDate="2015-10-20T18:54:47.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Immature) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (History) (Immature) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Potential vacuum leak: I can hear a steady hissing sound near the intake manifold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Also, it idles high (around 1500 RPM) most of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above are symptoms of unmetered air making it's way into the cylinders. The fact that you have an aftermarket turbo probably aggravated the situation and caused the lean code to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the leak should be somewhere after the MAF/MAP sensor &lt;strike&gt;and before the turbo&lt;/strike&gt;. A quick and easy way to locate the area where the intake is leaking is to spray carb cleaner or introduce propane around the intake plumbing.If sprayed near the leaking area you should be able to hear engine RPM change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T13:47:41.047" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:47:41.047" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:50:41.347" Score="4" ViewCount="164920" Body="&lt;p&gt;2013 Kia Sorento, just purchased used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drives very smooth before you hit 80, in idle you can barely even feel if the engine is on.  You start to gradually feel the shaking/vibration in the steering wheel at 75 but it becomes very apparent at 80. It's not a very bad shake but it's noticeable... if I apply pressure I can almost prevent the shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I let go of the steering wheel the car still drives straight.  It is also pretty much consistent starts at the same speed and never goes away or gets better...  I did not try going above 85 to see if it goes away at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12773" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T19:58:54.913" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T14:41:33.493" Title="Steering wheel shakes at around 80 mph" Tags="|vibration|shaking|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22471" CreationDate="2015-10-20T19:53:15.470" Score="2" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2l V8. And I am hearing a chain like noise when at higher speeds (50mph+.. of course in 2wd) after I left off of the gas and when I step on the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is almost like a chain tightening when I give it gas and loosening when I left off. I have a np231d transfer case and am wondering if it's a loos chain in the case? What do you all think? And how can I fix this? thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T00:41:08.060" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:05:52.933" Title="Trans case on 1999 Dodge Ram noise" Tags="|noise|dodge|4wd|ram|transfer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2015-10-20T20:02:33.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel indicates the source is in the drivetrain, most probably something on the front axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very common thing that could cause this is an out-of-balance wheel. The first thing I would do is have the wheels balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T03:43:14.593" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T03:43:14.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2015-10-20T20:06:11.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF you let the wheel go and it continues to track straight then it is most likely not in need of a alignment.  My first thought would be to look at your tires.  A missing weight or tires that are slightly out of round or below recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:06:11.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21884" CreationDate="2015-10-20T20:09:19.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the clock and radio come back on again after the car has started?  If they do then I would be inclined to look at the battery and the connections.  Is there any build up on the terminals?  Have you tried starting the car with the headlights on and see if they dim as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T20:09:19.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19665" CreationDate="2015-10-21T00:41:08.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As DustinDavis mentioned in the comments, high pressure water is very easy to damage components with. The area underneath the hood is not built for high pressure water (or large amounts of water at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most surfaces on a car, the proper way to clean them is by hand. You can purchase engine degreaser products at most auto parts stores. This product combined with hand brushing and a common garden hose with a spray nozzle set to 'flat' mode will be sufficient to clean the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the battery and cover the connectors before cleaning. Coating the engine with water exposes any damaged wiring to a large amount of water. Removing the battery can help protect the vehicle from damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plug the air intake with a towel or other means. Hydrolocking will destroy your engine in a single turn of the starter and require replacing the engine. This is something you really want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't force water into nooks and crannies. The water is for rinsing, not for blasting dirt off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let your vehicle dry with the hood open in a well ventillated garage or outside on a sunny day for multiple hours. Engines are best run when they are dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid directly blasting hoses, wires and other cabling with water. They're not made to withstand that, so best to not force it on them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the degreasing product to all visible surfaces that are obviously covered in grease and grime. Use a brush to break up the grime and work the degreaser into the grease and grime. Use the water to rinse off the degreaser (not to rinse off the grease directly). If the gunk doesn't want to come off then it means you need to repeat the process to get that gunk off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason you find all of these components sheltered away behind body panels and up off the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T00:41:08.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2015-10-21T00:58:54.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires get unbalanced as they wear without events like &quot;balance weights falling off&quot; happening. The most likely assumption is that the vibration was happening when you bought the car, but you didn't discover it on your road test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the tires for sidewall bulges, and uneven tread wear at around circumference of the wheel (possibly caused by skid), and get the wheels rebalanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest &quot;fix&quot; might just be to swap the wheels front-to-back, but you should still look for the real cause - it's better to be alive with new tires if you need them, than to be dead with the money still in your pocket!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this sort of vibration develops &lt;em&gt;suddenly&lt;/em&gt; when driving, you have a problem that needs an urgent fix. If it gradually got worse over the last 20,000 miles, that's not so serious. But since you just bought the car, you don't know which of those two scenarios applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is nothing apparently wrong with the tires, you might have a failing wheel bearing, or some other problem in the drive train or steering linkage - but as with any trouble-shooting, start with the simplest and most likely cause, i.e. the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T00:58:54.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2015-10-21T02:11:57.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of you are correct and some not.&#xA;With a little research you will find Prestone is also an OAT formula, same as the Dextron, and many others, most made by the same parent company.&#xA;OAT is the difference you need to look out for, the colours no longer matter as the manufactures of antifreeze have started dying them all colours under the sun.&#xA;The real problem is the OAT formula eats silicon, a very commonly used sealant on hoses and gaskets pre 2010.&#xA;If you tear down a newer engine you will notice no silicone on anything, just rubber gaskets, unless it was a backyard fix.&#xA;Older engines use silicone everywhere, and so do most mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12775" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T02:11:57.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:01:45.017" Score="1" ViewCount="2624" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Civic hybrid won't start.  No interior lights, no power.  Can I jump start the battery under the hood?  Not sure since it is a hybrid and has two? batteries.  I did not drive it for 3days.  It seems to be jerky/sluggish on acceleration for the past few weeks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12782" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T01:19:12.153" Title="Honda Civic hybrid won't start" Tags="|honda|battery|civic|hybrid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:29:44.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A photograph of the scratches would help immensely here are light scratches and damage in the paint can be removed with just abrasives such as T-Cut or Rubbing Compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bumper will only rust if it's metal and most modern cars use plastic bumpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to get the panel professionally painted, the painter would not simply paint over the scratches but they'd rub the existing paint down to a smooth finish, otherwise you'd see the damage through the new paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T08:29:44.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T08:45:27.153" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say we have a 6 cylinder diesel engine having 385 KW power. Now I am running this engine at high idle of 1900 rpm. What will be power produced by this engine? Is it equal to max power or less than that and when I will apply load than it will produce max power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12784" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:29:02.590" Title="Diesel Engine Power" Tags="|diesel|engine-theory|engine-load|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21908" CreationDate="2015-10-21T09:29:38.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a difficult thing to answer without knowing the power characteristics of the engine. Best measured with a dynamometer. Peak horse power and torque are 2 different things and dont necesarily occur at the same rpm. Increases in power output is seldom a straight line, ie doubling the revs doesn't necessarily mean doubling the power. Power at half revs isn't necessarily half of the peak output either. The only way to accurately measure the power output of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; engine at a given rpm is to put in on a dyno. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T09:32:14.863" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T09:32:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21896" CreationDate="2015-10-21T12:37:18.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggested wheel balancing and wheel bearing (both of which I would check first), you should also check for wear on the tie rod ends. If they have play, a minor imbalance may be amplified, and the more it shakes the faster it wears, which again makes it shake more over time - a positive feedback loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem on a very old vehicle. No matter how balanced the wheels were, eventually something would start the vibration. After changing tie rod ends the steering was much tighter and the problem disappeared.&#xA;I would be a bit surprised if you had excessive tie rod end wear on such a new car, but it's worth a check and easy to do - jack up the car and move one wheel from side to side while the other one is fixed. If you think there is play, have someone else move the wheel while you look at tie rod end, as well as other parts, to see where it's moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: they may call it something else on newer cars with rack&amp;amp;pinion, but the same applies. It's the bushing on the end of the rods that goes from the tie rod (the one connecting the right and left wheel) on a vehicle with steering box or from rack&amp;amp;pinion unit to the wheel on the other ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T12:37:18.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21913" CreationDate="2015-10-21T13:28:21.327" Score="4" ViewCount="15970" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Chevrolet Lumina SS calls for use of &quot;Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (DOT-4 Plus)&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake fluid bottle I have readily available is DOT 4; the label claims to be compatible with DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 systems without mentioning anything about DOT 4+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I lose anything by using plain DOT 4 fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T14:59:59.340" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T14:59:59.340" Title="Can I use DOT 4 brake fluid when DOT 4+ is recommended?" Tags="|chevrolet|brake-fluid|lumina|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21926" CreationDate="2015-10-21T14:43:13.673" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought New Nissan 2 months ago. I was driving on down hills but as it was late at night and no car on the road, I enjoyed of high speed (4-5 min) and I didn't use the break . When we reached my husband was very angry and complained because he saw lots of smoke from my car while he was driving behind me. He said you damaged the engine because still car was cold (short drive).&#xA;I would like to know in this case what happened to the engine and what was the reason for the smoke? and really is too bad for engine if I don't use break in down hills (I always thought is better for engine)? Also he said new car you shouldn't go high speed at least for 5-6 months. Is that right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12786" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T15:01:15.920" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T23:49:33.250" Title="Is my new car engine damaged?" Tags="|engine|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21911" CreationDate="2015-10-21T14:59:36.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DOT4 has a lower boiling point than DOT4+ - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regular DOT 4 has a minimum Wet Boiling Point of 165 degrees Celsius, while the DOT 4+ spec is 180 degrees.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. While you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use water in your system (until it boiled) to stop your car, I wouldn't recommend it. Could you use DOT4? Sure, but you'll be giving up some wet boiling temp to do so ... where you live, this may be of great importance (generally meaning you may need the difference of heat protection due to your climate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T14:59:36.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21891" CreationDate="2015-10-21T15:00:19.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In @Chris's comment, he says it was the guy at the auto parts store who told him that the only alternator he could get was a Bosch brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to believe that what has gotten lost in this question is that the auto parts store was simply out of stock of other brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto parts stores are not a warehouse and only keep a few of each item on hand.  They can usually ship in your needed part within two days for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T15:00:19.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21906" CreationDate="2015-10-21T15:19:02.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can jump the 12v battery from another 12v source. Ensure you are using the jumper cables correctly (+ to + and - to -) and you shouldn't have any issues. Your suggestion of the vehicle being jerky/sluggish would have nothing to do with the 12v battery system. This would have to do with the gas engine itself, or with the high voltage battery system/electric motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T15:19:02.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21811" CreationDate="2015-10-21T15:54:37.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After resetting the ECU by leaving the battery unplugged over night and trying to start the car again, the ForScan software picked up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtcsearch.com/P1602/Mazda/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P1602&lt;/a&gt; code, which is a different immobilizer code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wiring, incorrect key, immobilizer control module, ECM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous owner told me there was a problem with one of the keys, but that the immobilizer was disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, it wasn't.  I tried the other key and the car started immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T15:54:37.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T16:06:35.490" Score="1" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the ac system have to be empty to change high pressure switch on 2006 jeep liberty. I have tested everything on the system electrical and I have power ac is full of Freon but clutch will not engage. Jumpered low pressure switch and still no ac &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12788" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T20:38:32.233" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T12:44:00.340" Title="Ac on 2006 jeep liberty" Tags="|ac|jeep|liberty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:19:14.920" Score="4" ViewCount="16557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed my car is making a barely-perceptible, low-pitched, buzzing or droning sound at highway speeds. It kind-of sounds like some cars' exhaust, but it's quiet enough that I seem to be the only one in my family who is hearing it. (It's about on the same volume level as natural &quot;road noise&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound only begins to be noticeable around 45 MPH. Once the car is going fast enough that I can hear it, the sound does not go away until the car has slowed to below the same threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound does not follow, nor does it seem at all affected by, the engine's speed. (I've listened during normal usage as gears shift automatically, and also forced up/down shifts and shifted to neutral - none of these cause any change to the noise's pitch or volume.) It also is not uniquely affected by braking - so long as the car continues to travel faster than about 45 MPH, it remains present and at its usual pitch and volume regardless of whether or not the brakes are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to localize the sound to no avail. It feels a little like it's coming from the front of the car, but the other day I could swear it seemed to be coming a little more from the rear. Since it only happens at 45+ MPH, and is fairly quiet to begin with, listening from outside the car is not an option and it gets drowned out by the wind when the windows are down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound only seems to be slightly affected by vehicle speed. It just barely raises or lowers pitch as the car goes faster or slower, but the volume does not seem to change much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2012 Dodge Avenger SXT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2.4 L inline-4 DOHC engine&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6-speed automatic transmission, FWD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brief recap of sound characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low pitch, low volume. (Barely noticeable against road noise.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occurs while vehicle speed is &gt;= approx. 45 MPH.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unaffected by engine speed, gear selection, or braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch has a slight direct relation to vehicle speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the sound seems to be somewhat related to vehicle speed, but independent of engine speed, one of my first suspects was the wheels or tires. However, the tires appear to be in good shape and (recent weather fluctuations aside) don't seem to have problems holding air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are likely causes of this type of sound that I should be looking at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T20:38:13.453" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T10:17:40.350" Title="Low-pitched buzzing/droning sound at highway speeds" Tags="|noise|dodge|avenger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21923" CreationDate="2015-10-21T18:20:01.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1628" Body="&lt;p&gt;So both of my rims currently installed in the back are bent. Since this is my winter wheels set, Someone suggested me to just try to straighten them with a rubber mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a good idea? Can I do it with my tires installed? Will my wheels be out of balance after that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5iDH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5iDH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zx00A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zx00A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T20:35:59.857" Title="Bent winter allow wheels, repair myself with rubber mallet?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T19:55:25.433" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Saturn Relay got a hole in a water hose and suddenly overheated, so I shut it down immediately.  Found the crank case empty and the coolant full of oil.  Replaced the hose and put oil in it, and fired it up.  Runs as smoothly as ever but more oil getting into the coolant and the oil level dropping.  Could there be an intake manifold problem like in old Buicks?  185000 miles on it but can't afford a new car, so how much to invest is a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12793" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T15:38:33.500" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T15:38:33.500" Title="Engine oil going into the coolant" Tags="|cooling-system|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21920" CreationDate="2015-10-21T20:35:59.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take them to a rim shop and have them trued. It has been my experience (yes, I've tried) in the past it will never come out right. Even when I did get it right (or so I thought) it quickly went back out of round. By taking it to a shop, they will use whatever magic is involved and get it straight ... and it'll stay that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the tire does hold air (though, being run flats you may not be overly worried ... just joking), you will feel the thump, thump, thump of the flat spot as you are driving down the road. Since you have two bent rims, the thumping is going to be even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T20:35:59.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T22:28:05.503" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my oil recently, and my careful scientific observation led me to discover that it was black and a bit runny. Not clear golden like new oil, but neither tarry sludge like a haven't-serviced-it-for-two-years oil. That's essentially my current limit for evaluating the oil condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read through plenty forum threads on the Longlife oil and the even longer service intervals recommended by my car's manufacturer, I've gathered that the service interval in the car manual probably isn't absolute truth. Every engine seems to end up in slightly different condition, and of course driving habits and environment vary greatly - to me it makes sense to have an empirical guideline on when to change oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackstone-labs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Blackstone Labs&quot;&gt;Blackstone Labs&lt;/a&gt; offer the type of services that I'm looking for, but I'm wanting something I can do at home, and for cheap (at least over repeated tests). A few examples I've thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter to measure mass of foreign particles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spectroscopy to measure change of base compounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opacity to also measure change of base compounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phase separation to test for foreign liquids &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I'm no automotive engineer, so these are all uninformed guesses. Is there such a way to empirically deduce the condition of oil, and thus when to change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T23:27:28.233" Title="How can I empirically evaluate the condition of my used motor oil at home?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21924" CreationDate="2015-10-21T23:02:31.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a regular user of Blackstone Labs, I believe they use mainly Spectroscopy -- i'm not sure how else they could provide the results they do. I know for a fact that a place in Denver uses infrared spectroscopy as one of their employees has commented about it on forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure it's feasible to do this on your own unless you have access to or want to spend a good $20k+ on equipment. But, I'm not an expert / chem engineer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your concern is regularly spending money on the test, I might suggest just testing your oil less often in combination with using a passive by-pass oil filtration system. These have many benefits, including prolonging your engine life and saving a lot of money. They are mainly used in diesel applications, but not restricted to the diesel power plant. The reason diesel truck owners use them, is both because it prolongs your engine life, and saves you a lot of money in oil changes. Consider larger commercial vehicles which take tens of gallons of oil and cost hundreds to do a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amsoil is just one company which makes these kits:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10053" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T23:02:31.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21912" CreationDate="2015-10-21T23:49:33.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't come close to redlining the tac (high RPM) and it doesn't smoke now, you are probably ok.  Engines are not what they use to be, they last a lot longer and are made of improved materials.  Break-in time isn't a critical as it once was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12793" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T23:49:33.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21922" CreationDate="2015-10-22T00:44:31.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds like the cylinder head became warped or cracked during the overheating. I'm not familiar with your car so it may be possible it's just the head gasket and not the actual head. Cylinder heads have &quot;caverns&quot; and ports to circulate coolant and oil throughout the head, but normally seperately. if they are mixing, something is very wrong. i would advise not running it anymore at all. the head and head gasket need to be inspected/repaired and cooling system flushed of oil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12796" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T00:44:31.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21919" CreationDate="2015-10-22T00:50:57.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;jack the wheels up one by one and spin them by hand. if it makes (sometimes somewhat quiet) metal grating noise the bearing(s) needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12796" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T00:50:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21482" CreationDate="2015-10-22T05:10:15.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like textbook cracking. This is a failure that can be caused by a myriad of sources, from chemical incompatability of paint and clearcoat to improperly applied paint. Your friend's inexperience with painting might be the root cause. Four years is a long time for a poorly applied clearcoat job to start showing issues, it could be something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pdf/Troubleshooting_Guide_English_PDF.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sherwin-Williams Automotive Paint Troubleshooting Guide (PDF, page 19)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CRACKING (Checking, Crazing, Spitting, Alligatoring, Crowsfeet) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cracks or lines of various lengths and widths in the topcoat finish often resembling the cracking of dried mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAUSE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(A) Excessive film thickness of the undercoat and/or topcoat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(B) Refinishing over a previously crazed/cracked surface. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(C) Insufficient flash time between coats and/or force drying undercoats using air from the spray gun. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(D) Mixing incorrectly or using too much hardener. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(E) Paint ingredients not thoroughly stirred or agitated. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(F) Breakdown of finish due to prolonged exposure to sunlight, moisture, and extreme temperature changes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(G) Using generic reducers and/or hardeners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;REPAIR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove all cracked paint film and refinish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PREVENTION&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(A) Apply all materials following label direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(B) Completely remove crazed/cracked finishes before refinishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(C) Do not force dry undercoats by fanning with spray gun air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(D) Mix ingredients thoroughly using the recommended additives. Add each component in proper sequence following the recommended mixing ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(E) Stir or agitate materials thoroughly before use to ensure all ingredients are in solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(F) Use premium two component undercoat and topcoat system to provide maximum gloss and durability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(G) Use the recommended thinner/reducer and hardener, and then measure accurately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBCAy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBCAy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paint cracking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyBOY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyBOY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;more paint cracking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, what is happening is your paint is shrinking. It's shrunken to the point where visible gaps are showing up between the pieces of paint still there. There's a lot of causes, and since it held up for several years it's likely to be environmental more than a poor application of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/INpfl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/INpfl.png&quot; alt=&quot;illustration of paint cracking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your permanent recourse is take it all off and put new stuff on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T05:10:15.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21931" CreationDate="2015-10-22T06:58:21.860" Score="2" ViewCount="1829" Body="&lt;p&gt;When driving I can sometimes hear a metal noise coming from the tire. It can be intermittent or continuous, like a brake part or a bad bearing. It doesn't sound like road noise or something stuck in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble identifying which part specifically, and have limited access to tools or a shop. What ways can I inspect my wheel in my driveway while moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:32:43.557" Title="How can I listen for a tire noise without driving?" Tags="|noise|troubleshooting|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21930" CreationDate="2015-10-22T06:58:21.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of these methods involve raising a car into the air. You should be familiar with the safety requirements of working near a lifted vehicle. Have appropriate jacks and jack stands, and someone to check in on you on a regular basis to make sure you are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Very slow speed (0-5 MPH/KPH)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise is apparent at very slow speed (1 - 2 MPH/KPH) then you can  rotate the tire by hand to try and mimic the motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car on level ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chock the wheel diagonal to the problem wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up the problem wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a jack stand under an appropriate structural element.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you need to determine how to make the wheel spin freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the wheel is not a drive wheel it might already spin freely. Do so, and try to determine the source of your noise. If it doesn't spin release the parking brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front-wheel drive vehicles should have the parking brake set. Shift the vehicle into neutral and the wheel should spin. If it still fails to spin, you might have found your mechanical problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear-wheel drive vehicles should have the parking brake released and be shifted into neutral.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All wheel drive vehicles might require lifting all four wheels to spin freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Slow speed (5-15 MPH/5-25 KPH)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a procedure you can perform in your own driveway with a spare tire jack to get a better idea of what is going on. This is not a safe procedure, you should do this with someone to help operate the vehicle, and with slow and methodical movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Person to operate the car/make sure you don't get hurt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two wheel drive car, where the problem wheel is one of the driven wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-limited slip differential. Drive wheels should be capable of freely spinning independently of one another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parking brake which only activates the rear wheel brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad tire is a drive wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle does not meet these requirements this procedure is not for you. See if you can replicate the noise with the very slow speed steps, or defer to a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle fits these requirements you can perform the following steps to get a closer look at the noise while the car is stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdRpnK5MGQ8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are these instructions in video form.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car on level ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the parking brake if it's FWD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chock the tire diagonal to the problem tire. If it is RWD, chock both front tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up the problem tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a jack stand underneath an appropriate structural element.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle should now have the problem tire in the air. Have your operator slowly and carefully enter the vehicle and follow these steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If equipped, disable traction control on your vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the brake. Do not release the parking brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the vehicle in drive (or first, if a manual).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very slowly let off the brake and allow the wheel in the air to spin. Do not apply gas unless you need a small amount of additional speed, it will spin plenty on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the tire for obvious sources of noise. It will be spinning with some speed. Have the operator slowly apply the brake if you need it to spin slower. Do not touch the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift into neutral.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly apply the brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift into park, turn off the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Higher speeds&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you need to appropriately secure the vehicle to stationary objects and lift the vehicle with better equipment than simple jack stands. Jack stands are not built for large lateral forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event the vehicle falls to the ground, drive wheels could propel the vehicle into an object, vastly increasing the problems with your car. This is where you talk to a mechanic and pay for the diagnostic fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:32:43.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2015-10-22T07:01:42.410" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encourage car owners no to apply grease on car battery terminals rather to apply petroleum jelly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12799" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T07:01:42.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21936" CreationDate="2015-10-22T11:21:27.857" Score="3" ViewCount="8732" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my friend drives an old, second-hand car in which the original radio has been replaced by the previous owner for an aftermarket radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His issue with the radio is that the volume slowly decreases while driving and after about five minutes driving there's no sound coming from the speakers at all. The radio works perfectly fine and when you turn the volumeknob you can see the volumenumber on the display changing, but there's no sound. Turning the radio off and on also doesn't change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it's a wiring issue, but than I'd expect the sound to start/stop immediately while driving when the wires (dis)connect for a moment. Any idea what might be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt; Update: &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry for the late response, I almost forgot about this question :S )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a couple of weeks ago we swapped the &quot;broken&quot; radio unit with an old one I still had lying around. He has been driving with it since than and hasn't noticed any issues yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slowly decreasing volume is probably caused by an overheating amplifier, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21936/12803&quot;&gt;HandyHowie&lt;/a&gt; already mentioned. That's all I actually wanted to know as it seemed odd to me and I couldn't find any information about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's either a dying unit or a wiring issue, but for now it works. I'll update this post if the problem occurs again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12803" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T12:45:01.303" Title="Radio volume slowly decreases to silent" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21918" CreationDate="2015-10-22T11:48:48.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before tearing into the AC system I would cross all my t's and dot my I's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest way to check a big chunk of the system is by using the clutch relay. Most relays (not all) can be opened and plugged back in. By pushing on the contacts with your finger the fuse and wiring is checked if the clutch comes on and off. If it does not come on then check the fuse and wiring. If the relay can't be disassembled then unplug the relay and jumper across the load side of relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that checks out ok then explore the control system. If you think that it might be a high side switch issue then jumper the switch (carefully) to verify first before replacing things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T11:48:48.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21934" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:19:10.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the speakers are not wired correctly, which is causing the amplifiers to overheat. As they heat up, they are probably lowering their output to try to stop themselves burning out. Hence after cooling down they start working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the speaker wiring diagram of the car matches that expected by the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T13:19:10.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:09:17.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert but I read in an article somewhere when Tesla introduced the P85D that the dual-motor version is more efficient at putting power to the wheels since it can use all four wheels instead of just the rear wheels. This even offsets the increased weight of the dual-motor setup and translates to a 2% increase in range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11440" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:09:17.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21949" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:35:25.603" Score="7" ViewCount="33981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit a rock and it destroyed my tire and damaged the (steel) rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I replace 2 rims (matched pair), or is it ok to replace just the one damaged rim? Is the car going to be balanced? It is the rear wheel and my car is a FWD sedan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks don't matter because they're steel rims covered by plastic wheel covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T20:36:44.720" Title="I damaged 1 rim. Should I replace 2 rims?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21938" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:46:35.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to replace the one rim on its own, however depending on the wear of the tyres on the same &quot;axle&quot; i.e. the one opposite it, you should maybe consider replacing both tyres to maintain even grip characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:46:35.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21938" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:46:46.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, it's unlikely that you will need to replace two steel rims rather than one. If you get an equivalent diameter, width and construction it shouldn't be a noticeable difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should examine the other tire for wear, though. If it's diameter is going to be significantly less than the replacement in the other side, that may mess up the driving feel.   This is less of a concern on the rear wheels of a front wheel drive car (it's an open differential in the rear so different rotations won't cause major trouble).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case: you might decide to replace the destroyed steel rim and both rear tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:46:46.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21944" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:39:57.193" Score="3" ViewCount="4042" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005-2014 Vauxhall/Opel Zafira B has recently been involved in a recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is this for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I tell if I'm affected?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T13:28:53.370" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T12:28:35.117" Title="What is this recall for my Vauxhall/Opel Zafira heating?" Tags="|vauxhall|opel|recall|zafira|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21111" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:41:18.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ride:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dodge 2002 Grand Caravan Sport&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just fixed this problem on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take off the FCM (Front Control Module)  This is the metal box directly in front of the fuse center, next to the battery.  You'll have to take off the cover of the fuse box.  The FCM is held in by four torx screws.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMhhA.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMhhA.gif&quot; alt=&quot;FCM&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the flat metal terminals by sanding them. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPgzG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPgzG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flat Metal Terminals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give them each a slight twist, to force a better connection.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abfv1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abfv1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Give each metal terminal a slight twist&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the FCM back in.  You're done!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimated time: 15 minutes (plus another 10 to find the torx bit you lost under the hood)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Update four years later:  still working!  The car has other problems now, but the headlights are strong as ever.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T19:53:56.267" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T19:53:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T16:56:26.207" Score="2" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Chevrolet Aveo UVA 1.2 LT 2007 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ever the gas is not pressed, the engine stalls. Even the engine does not start unless I press the gas while turning the key.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At high speeds everything seems OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does makes a strange rumpling sound at higher RPMs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the electrical fuse checked and they seems OK, as initially the mechanic thought it was an electrical issue to stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I drove it to my home town for 150km and there was some burning oil smell. Now it is even taking longer time and throttle press to start. I checked the oil levels and they seem OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastEditorUserId="53638" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T09:57:30.323" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T09:57:30.323" Title="Car engine dies when I am not pressing the Gas" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|stall|aveo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21941" CreationDate="2015-10-22T17:01:26.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who is affected?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If your car has had any previous work on the heating system, I would STRONGLY advise that you take it to a local dealership. Non-genuine parts may have been used, which could overheat and catch fire.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you car meets all of these criteria, then you are definitely affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Zafira B (all model variants)&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCn8Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCn8Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If your car design is not like this, you are not affected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;From years 2005 - 2014   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Right hand drive  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Manual Air Conditioning or without Air conditioning. (NOT climate control) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these statements apply, you may be affected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You notice unusual characteristics with your heating and ventilation system (for example, a squeaking noise from the dashboard, a noisy fan, or any other abnormal noises when the fan is on)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your fan does not work in positions 1, 2 or 3  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your car has had previous maintenance work on its heating and ventilation system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I tell if I have climate control or manual air conditioning?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get into your car, and look at the heater controls:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0AF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0AF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your controls look like this (ignore the colour):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEryR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEryR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; affected. You should not have an AUTO button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your controls look like this (note the AUTO button):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJxuy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJxuy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you are NOT affected. You don't need to do anything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm affected, what should I do?!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should stop using the heater, and set the fan speed to Zero. You should &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; use the blower settings 1,2 and 3. If you need to demist the windows &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; use the full power setting (4).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take your car to your local Vauxhall Dealership, where it will be inspected free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the component which causes the different fan speeds. It is basically several resistors, with an integrated fuse. Some of there are faulty, or have been replaced with non-genuine parts (there are many clones around), as they are very expensive from Vauxhall. This means that if the blower fan is overloaded, then they can overheat and catch fire. When you use the maximum speed (fan speed 4), the resistors are bypassed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the resistors fail, they fail for a good reason. However, people don't investigate the real problem. Instead they have either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the resistor with a genuine one  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the resistor with a non-genuine one (which may be cheaply made)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resoldered (i.e. bodged) the fuse back on and then put it back in (cheapest option)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is likely to have happened is that the bearings have gone in the motor (they're starting to get quite old now). This means it requires more power to make them turn, so more current is being drawn through the resistors, which causes them to fail. The fuses are then bodged, or cheap non-genuine ones are put back in, where shortcuts have been taken with design or manufacture. They are overloaded, and overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technical Information - What Vauxhall do to your car:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regarding checking the heater system. You need to check the resistor pack and plastic surrounding the resistor pack for any burning. Replace if any holes are found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check the wiring loom for burns/chaffing - replace if any found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You then need to check the current flow on the fan motor. You can do this either with a amp clamp or multimeter. With the engine running, you need to set the fan speed to 1 and check current. The current can be checked on either the Red/White wire or Brown wire. If its below 4.5amps the motor is not drawing excessive current. If its above 4.5 amps the motor needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check the pollen filter and filter box for dry leaves and replace pollen filter if it's dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check around the scuttle for any debris and remove if any is found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you find any issues above you need to contact Vauxhall - fingers crossed it will be done as a good will gesture but we all know how they like to riddle out of things. Nothing to lose by asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE - The only way to check using a multimeter is to break into the wire. I do not advise this. You could depin the connector and use your multimeter probes between the terminal of the wire you just depinned and the fan motor terminal. Set your multimeter to MAX current setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/index.php?threads/bursting-in-flames.432574/page-4#post-2823200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taken from here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vauxhall.co.uk/zafiracustomeradvice.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The official Vauxhall site with more info on the recall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T13:30:18.590" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T13:30:18.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T18:37:21.437" Score="1" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a Valve stem and valve guide OIL SEAL replacement on my 4.0 Liter ford possible? Would (plenty of Hot) compressed Air be helpful to have for this process. My brother (aspiring genius mechanic) says he and his compressor will stick around if he is correct about the valve seals being replaceable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12809" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T21:40:03.963" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T13:57:45.260" Title="Is a valve stem and valve guide oil seal replacement on my 4.0 Ford possible?" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T19:00:41.897" Score="3" ViewCount="2651" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://pictures.dealer.com/j/jimellismazdamarietta/1855/949bdba5ca5ec80ac78795909d2b76f7x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this audio unit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etTD2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etTD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to just plug in my iPhone and press the 'Media' button to get songs to play, but it doesn't seem to work with an Android phone. I just get a 'Check USB' message. Is playing songs from my Android phone through Spotify through a USB cable possible with the stock unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have? Are there third-party units that I can buy to replace the stock one that play nicely with my Android phone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12811" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T15:30:21.280" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T19:28:30.657" Title="2014 Mazda 3 Audio with Android phone through USB" Tags="|mazda|audio|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2015-10-22T19:14:09.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is no independant thermostat bypass in a subaru. Get or make a u-bend of 16mm metal pipe and disconnect the two heater hoses at the firewall behind the engine and join them together with the u-bend and two hose clamps. The overheating problem will go away for good. But of course, now you have no heater. The best solution if you want your heater to work is to cut both the heater hoses at a suitable spot next to each other and to fit a T-piece in each hose and join them together. Then water can bypass the heater element keeping the thermostat functioning properly, and enough hot water will still flow through the heater element to warm up the car's interior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12812" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T19:14:09.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21938" CreationDate="2015-10-22T19:18:50.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you replace the rim with one that is mostly similar to the other rim the balance should not be affected at all. Tires (and rims) are balanced on a per tire basis. The mechanic puts it in a machine that spins the tire and it tells him where to put the counterweights to make the tire balanced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12813" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T19:18:50.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21938" CreationDate="2015-10-22T20:47:50.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not badly-damaged, you may be able to repair the rim instead (or have it repaired by someone). If it's just dented or slightly out of shape, a firm hit with a heavy hammer and a round-end punch could put it back in shape. Put some paint on the scratch and off you go. Have it checked/balanced by a tire shop; if it does not come back with an excessive quantity of weights, you're fine. Usually, the shop will tell you beforehand if something's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice a crack on the wheel, junk it. Give it to someone that could re-use it as scrap metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up buying a new rim, since it's at the rear and your car is a FWD, you should not have to worry too much about its size or its weight. If it were on the front, a significant size difference can damage the differential on the long run, and a significant weight difference could affect acceleration and deceleration due to the different inertia of the wheels. Just make sure that the size with new tire is close to the wheel on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T20:47:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-10-22T20:54:41.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great page.  I just bought a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring 2WD and have been playing around with the ECON button along with the Idle-Stop features.  For those not familiar with the Idle-Stop feature, when the car comes to a stop, the engine automatically shuts off to conserve fuel and improve fuel economy...and the engine starts up when the brake is released.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I agree with others that the acceleration is noticeably more gradual with the ECON mode on as the computer software adjusts the engine for gentle throttle.  So the decreased performance in ECON mode is real...so the question is, is the increased fuel economy real as well. So, I've tested the ECON mode on and off but with the Engine Idle Shut Down feature on and off respectively to get a bigger difference in fuel economy. Unfortunately, I didn't see a huge difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the ECON mode off and the Engine Idle Shut Down was deactivated, I got 23.2 mpg.  In comparison, with the ECON mode on and the Engine Idle Shut Down on (to get maximum fuel economy), I got 24.0 mpg...only a 3.4% mpg improvement.  So a 0.8 mpg saving and with a 19.5 gallon fuel capacity (0.67 gal saving) and use of premium unleaded gas price of $2.42/gallon in Tucson, AZ, that's a savings of only $1.62 each time I fill up.  Honda claims 20/27 mpg city/hwy and 23 overall, so my driving appears to be in line with their claims.  From what I've read, smaller and lighter &quot;economy&quot; cars can benefit more from these fuel saving features so I'm not too surprised by the limited savings on my 4,140 lb SUV.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My numbers are &quot;real life&quot; setting from driving to and from work (no hwy) in a smaller city with minimal traffic congestion.  I'm certain that different driving habits can amplify the small savings that I personally experienced. For example, living in the desert, my air conditioner was always on.  I've seen reports in Edmunds.com where a 10 mpg improvement can be gained by shutting off the A/C in smaller economy cars and thus the difference in ECON is likely higher...but I'm not willing to try that here.  Granted, I didn't test just the ECON feature alone so the fuel saving could have been just from the Idle-Stop feature, but it is likely a combination of the two.  Bottomline, the ECON is not likely a placebo but with it's limited fuel saving, it is probably best equipped on a smaller/lighter car where the benefit may be larger...but it should not be a feature considered as a major reason to buy the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T11:56:47.727" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:56:47.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21943" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:02:21.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a very dirty throttle body.  If the engine is very worn, there could be a lot of gasses/oil vapours being blown into the air intake which could cause a build-up of gunk around the throttle butterfly and idle control valve.  This could block the required air for idle, which would then cause the engine to stall.  Try taking the intake pipe off the throttle body and clean the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T21:02:21.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21945" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:37:19.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may be misstating what you are intending to do. I don't think you really want to replace the valve stem, as this would require replacing the entire valve, which would incur you needed to pull the head to accomplish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to just replace the valve seals, you will need an on head valve spring compressor. Here is one example (there are other types):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s6kkR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s6kkR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route, the compressed air (whether hot or not) can help, but you'll need an adapter which will thread into your spark plug hole. The idea is to put pressure into the cylinder to keep the valves up while you pull the springs off. An example might look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7eSI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7eSI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use this adapter, turn the piston of the cylinder you're working on to top dead center (TDC), then apply air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this kind of procedure is for you, then, yes, the compressed air will help you out. If it's not something you're willing to do, then you may want to leave it for a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-10-15T13:57:45.260" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T13:57:45.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39302" CreationDate="2015-10-22T22:18:01.223" Score="3" ViewCount="17159" Body="&lt;p&gt;'97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L, though I doubt the phenomenon is that specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when I accelerate normally from a light or a stop sign (at the same rate as everyone around me) while keeping the tach around idle-ish to low-cruise, it feels like the clutch alternately grabs and releases on its own about 2-4 times per second until my ground speed catches up to the engine.  As soon as it locks, it's fine, or if I push it loose again, it's fine and may or may not chatter when I try again immediately.  Usually, though, I get a completely smooth start the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All subsequent shifts are smooth (except for the occasional operator error); it's only the start from zero speed that's noticeably a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also noticed that both the brakes and the clutch are affected by humidity.  Just after a rain, they're extra grabby in general and often take me by surprise when I first use them, even though I should know to expect it by now.  Don't know if it's related or not, but I can handle that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10721" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:26:47.107" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T17:26:53.693" Title="Why does my clutch &quot;bounce&quot;?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21953" CreationDate="2015-10-22T22:33:56.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your clutch is on its way out. The way you explain it, your clutch is slipping on take-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test my theory, you can do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the vehicle up to about 20mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your transmission in the highest gear (probably 5th gear IIRC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to accelerate hard (1/2 to 3/4 throttle pedal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine speeds up readily but the Jeep doesn't, the clutch is going out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine lugs down and slowly speeds up as the vehicle speeds up, your clutch is still working as it's supposed to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it turns out to be good, it could just be how you are driving and are lugging the engine at low speed (fully engaging the clutch before the vehicle speed has caught up to the engine speed). Your description sounds more like the first options, but it might be lacking in a few small details which would lead me to the second conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T22:33:56.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2015-10-22T23:23:13.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem. It was just a bad coil in the spark plugs on my 2005 Toyota Camry.wasnt an expensive fix either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12817" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T23:23:13.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-23T01:36:04.603" Score="3" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;This week I got a flat tire. I replaced the tire with my spare one. Since I own a Volkswagen the spare is a full size tire. The spare have a sticker on it that say don't go over 80km/h (50miles/h). However, the tire spec are 195/65r15 H same dimension spec as factory wheel setting. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt;, the speed rating of the tire is 210km/h (130miles/h) so the tire is way more capable than the 80km/h limit posted on the sticker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason why this sticker is there? If so can you explain please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T05:04:49.897" Title="Can I disregard the sticker on my sparewheel?" Tags="|tires|wheels|spare-tire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21957" CreationDate="2015-10-23T05:04:49.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;TireRack indicates that there may be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=141&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other differences at play.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Full-Size Temporary Spares&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Full-size temporary spare tires and wheels match the vehicle's original tire dimensions, but typically feature lighter-weight construction and a shallower tread depth to reduce vehicle weight to improve fuel economy and make the spare easier to install. While most of today's vehicles are originally equipped with alloy wheels, full-size temporary spares are typically mounted on steel wheels and should be used only as spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the spare tire is the exact same size as the tire it will be replacing it can still have a difference of tread depth. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1012/will-different-tread-depths-hurt-my-4-wheel-drive&quot;&gt;This might impact an all-whee-drive vehicle, depending on manfuacturer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt the manufacturer is not usually out to get you. There's likely some safety consideration for the speed limit. Volkswagen offers a free phone and live chat system, you can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vw.com/contact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;asking them directly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T05:04:49.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17918" CreationDate="2015-10-23T06:57:35.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on @Paulster2's comment it was an easy decision: let the pros handle it. It ended up costing far less than me wrecking the car and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; letting the pros handle it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T06:57:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2015-10-23T08:07:45.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;it turned out that the car was tuned and it had some extra electronic that was connected to the computer and the fuel pump. This wasn't a native part of the car and it was hidden. We founded after expecting the electric installation and searching for problems there. After removing it there are no problems and the car runs great. Ill try to post pictures from the model later. Thanks all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9915" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T08:07:45.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21919" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:18:50.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had cars that had a hole in the centre exhaust that only created a soft 'booming' noise at certain engine revs (harmonic resonance issue?). The noise must have been coming / going at certain revs (1300 odd revs in a low revving beast of a straight 6), but I only heard it at speed because that was the only time the car was cruising at such low revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12822" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:18:50.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:19:34.437" Score="1" ViewCount="4190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corolla verso 2005 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car does not start, the battery is new.&#xA;What can it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T13:26:14.470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:29:42.917" Title="The car won't start the battery is new, there's not even a click sound" Tags="|toyota|starting|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:21:13.977" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always lose air from a tyre when I try to use one of the type of pressure gauge that depress the pin in the valve as the gauge is attached, so I have to pump it up whether or not the pressure was already correct. It seems logical to me to have a fitting which attaches to the valve, with a button or other device that then presses the pin for a reading. Does such a gauge exist, or are there other types of gauge that do not present this problem to ham fisted users like me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12825" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:45:28.730" Title="Is there a tyre pressure gauge that is easy to use?" Tags="|tires|gauges|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21963" CreationDate="2015-10-23T11:45:28.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get valve caps that indicate tyre pressures on them in a Red/Amber/Green state.  They are available in a range of different pressures so you could replace your normal valve caps with them which would stop you even having to remove them to check the pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ym37L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ym37L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of pressure caps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find more by searching for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=valve%20cap%20pressure%20indicators&amp;amp;safe=strict&amp;amp;noj=1&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CCIQsxhqFQoTCIuovtzB2MgCFQnZGgodcecAFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valve Cap Pressure Indicators&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T11:45:28.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-23T12:49:18.903" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda City 2005 vTec Manual Transmission Car, which will be due for servicing in another 1000KM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not well used to driving manual car and I face a lot of traffic everyday going and coming back from work but what I noticed recently was that anytime I press the gas, the rpm comes up to 2k and the speedometer reading like 20KMPH without gaining much distance as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think might be wrong? Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12828" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:02:00.507" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:02:00.507" Title="Honda City vTec Slow Start" Tags="|honda|clutch|manual-transmission|rpm|vtec|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21943" CreationDate="2015-10-23T12:54:59.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced such with my Honda City 2005... I had to change the whole engine cos some of the valves were no more in position as the mechanic said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell your mechanic to take a good look at the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12828" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T12:54:59.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21943" CreationDate="2015-10-23T12:56:05.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a pro but... Same symptoms observed for a Lambda Sond problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact it could be a &quot;sond&quot; problem, the lambda one calculate the good &quot;gas/air&quot;, it's a frequent case of an unwanted turn-off. It could be also for example the temperature sond, which cut when the temperature is to high (when you stop the wind can't refresh your engine) it can also be a problem with the piece which set the &quot;idle power&quot; of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12661" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T13:40:02.237" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T13:40:02.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21966" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:07:46.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem would appear to be that your clutch is slipping (going out) and will need replacement soon. After the clutch gets worn enough, it can no longer hold the torque/power which the engine can produce and starts to slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T13:07:46.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21962" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:44:10.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the battery cables connected properly to the battery?  This could cause the symptoms you describe, and if the battery is new, it's possible that the terminals on the ends of the battery cables didn't get tightened properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12830" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T13:44:10.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12585" CreationDate="2015-10-23T15:37:43.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that alloy wheels can also stick to the iron parts of the wheel hub, especially if you live somewhere that uses salt during the winter.  It is something that is easy enough to deal with when you are at home and have access to a BFH, but not a lot of fun changing a flat in the middle of the night on the side of the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T15:37:43.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21977" CreationDate="2015-10-23T16:42:11.907" Score="5" ViewCount="24905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had new winter tires put on my 2003 Honda Civic 4-door LX. The steering has been affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steering now feels &quot;weak&quot; or &quot;light&quot; or &quot;loose&quot;. Meaning I now have to turn the wheel further to make my car turn than I did before changing the tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example. Before changing my tires, I would generally turn the steering wheel about three inches to comfortably change lanes. Now I have to turn the wheel about a full quarter turn to have the same affect, so maybe about double the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to be clear the steering is fine otherwise: doesn't pull, doesn't shake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did contact the garage about it and they think it is just the power assist struggling with the bigger tires and bigger tread which are gripping the road more. They also said that it is ok and might improve over time as the new tires &quot;soften&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the garage sound correct, and either way, do you have any ideas on how to make the steering the way it was before changing the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After driving for a couple weeks, it does seem more responsive. Plus I think I have gotten used to the now only slightly higher turn requirement. And the grip is great, thanks for the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 year later put on the tires again but with a different garage (Midas). The steering wheel this time feels like I need to turn it exactly the same as with regular tires, but this time feels &lt;strong&gt;harder&lt;/strong&gt; to turn. This seems more reasonable to me and makes sense... I think the guy I went to before didn't know what he was doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12831" LastEditorUserId="12831" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T17:52:19.317" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T20:33:01.260" Title="After putting on new winter tires, my steering is weak/light" Tags="|tires|power-steering|steering|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21946" CreationDate="2015-10-23T18:18:52.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apple has kept one thing going from the original inception of the IPhone. It has dedicated audio circuits plumbed out to the charging connector. With the older IPhone this was very obvious because of the large connector with many pins. With the newer lightning connector the audio paths are still there (although they are now digital). It is this consistency that has allowed so many different devices to support the IPhone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Android does not have such humble beginnings. Because Google does not have control of the hardware that Android goes on there is no guarantee that audio is plumbed out though to the charging connector (what ever it may be). Because of this very few devices actually support audio though the charging port on Android. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T18:18:52.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21973" CreationDate="2015-10-23T18:36:02.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;where the rubber meets the road&quot; sums everything up. Tires affect how the car feels and handles. If you don't like how your car feels and handles then get a different set of tires. There is no way to fix the problem (assuming nothing is wrong with the car). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T18:36:02.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21973" CreationDate="2015-10-23T20:08:49.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most tires feel a bit &quot;greasy&quot; for the first 25 or so miles as the mold release lube wears off.  In my experience, winter tires seem to suffer even more so from this. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=117&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TireRack.com verifies this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before tires are cured, a release lubricant is often applied to prevent the tires from sticking in the mold. Unfortunately, some of the lubricant stays on the surface of the tires, and traction is reduced until it is worn away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10838" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T21:23:25.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T21:23:25.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21973" CreationDate="2015-10-23T21:22:47.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Winter tires are different and you are sensitive enough to tell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like you have a problem.  It seems that you are detecting exactly what I detect when I put my winter tires on after the summer.  Quoting from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=117&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Tire Rack article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;New winter tires begin with deeper tread depths and more open tread&#xA;  designs than the tires used during the rest of the year. While the&#xA;  extra tread depth allows new winter tires to provide more traction in&#xA;  deep snow, it also contributes to more tread squirm and drivers may&#xA;  notice a reduction in handling responsiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with a casual read of the above is that the words &quot;squirm&quot; and &quot;responsiveness&quot; aren't terribly quantitative.  However, your remarks about having to turn the wheel further could come under the heading of responsiveness.  I know that I detect &quot;squirm&quot; on my winter tires when going around a steady state corner where I need to make small adjustments (e.g., some junk sitting on the road).  My winter tires feel more like they're surfing on a dry road than the summer tires do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic reason for this isn't complicated.  Winter tires tend to have relatively tall tread blocks with larger gaps between them.  Their mission is to reach down through the snow in order to grip the road, of course.  Those taller blocks, however, are still made of rubber and, as such, will tend to flex under stress.  This effect will be magnified by those gaps: more air == less rubber to grab the road so each block has to work that much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that changes when the snow falls.  At that point, the traction on a summer tire can drop to effectively zero along every vector.  In contrast, the winter tire suddenly feels like you're riding on rails.  Until, of course, you intentionally start doing donuts in an empty parking lot....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T00:56:04.583" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T00:56:04.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21979" CreationDate="2015-10-18T05:45:50.677" Score="-1" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My aunt uses an automobile sharing company hereafter abbreviated to ASC (eg: Autoshare or Zipcar), which permits only 200 km daily (excessive mileage is charged); but observe: ASC cares only about the final total mileage, and cares &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; about the distribution of the mileage over the number of days.  Suppose that she rents for 3 days, for a maximum mileage of 600 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aunt must travel from A to B, whose round-trip distance is confirmed as &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; 400 km (per Google), but she cannot predict the precise distance (eg: detours, deviations due to road closures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Objective:&lt;/strong&gt; She needs to know the remaining mileage in real time (&lt;code&gt;= 600 - 400  ― 'Current distance travelled'&lt;/code&gt;), to decide whether enough mileage remains to drive elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; The ASC's odometer displays only &lt;em&gt;'Current distance travelled'&lt;/em&gt;, and so requires my aunt to calculate manually (while driving) whenever she must know the remaining mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user43484" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T22:38:42.543" Title="How can you command a vehicle's odometer to calculate the remaining distance?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21978" CreationDate="2015-10-20T22:26:51.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get the cars built in odometer to do this, is impossible as long as the car doesn't happen to do that kind of stuff. One option not using any extra tools is to precalculate when starting to drive what the odometer should show at the end of the day. You'll then not see what is left, but if should end on 83450, and you are at 83300 or 83400 you'll get a relative feeling of how much is left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your best option I think would be to either use a GPS navigator, or a smart phone with a GPS program installed which are able to measure travelled distance, and distance to target, possibly also with the remaining distance of today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="holroy" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T22:26:51.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19710" CreationDate="2015-10-23T23:51:07.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car did not come with a keyless entry system whatsoever (as in no fob or buttons) you can purchase an aftermarket keyless entry system to install in your car. If you have power locks it will be easier to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shop around at dealerships and local vehicle audio shops. Often, a dealership will charge several times what a local shop will charge to install similar equipment. If you are comfortable taking apart the trim in your car, you can also install these kinds of systems yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that Toyota sells a keyless entry add-on system for their vehicles. I cannot find specific information about the add-on kit for your 2015 Corolla (I presume it's an L trim package). I would suggest contacting your dealership and asking them directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find a product that will simply make your car beep when you press a button. That functionality is often built into remote keyless systems. Multiple presses of the lock button will sound the vehicle horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T00:01:21.090" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T00:01:21.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18113" CreationDate="2015-10-24T00:44:52.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it should be possible to do yourself. If you already have the new spoiler check and see if it came with new mounting hardware for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open and raise the rear liftgate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the inside near the top corners you should see two plastic trim plugs, one for each side. Remove both of these carefully using a plastic tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a 10mm socket wrench remove the bolts inside both holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the wiring harness on the driver's side of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push up on the spoiler from outside the liftgate from both sides. It will slide out of the locks and be able to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the easier processes I've seen for removing a piece of vehicle trim. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes, especially with someone to help with lifting it off the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T00:44:52.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29587" CreationDate="2015-10-24T01:57:43.423" Score="5" ViewCount="2597" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcyle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2006 Hyosung GT250R&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Syptoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaking lots of petrol when engine is on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hasn't been ridden in about 10 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has been stored outside with cover, leaning on it's stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started her twice in the last 2 months and every time it leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had been fully serviced and roadworthy 12 months ago by a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Video&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sendvid.com/5cfui2j2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;15 second video of it leaking on it's second start today&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXvT0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some reading that this is either a breather or overflow for the fuel tank, and I can accept that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to know what my course of action is. Leave it leaking till it stops or go for a ride and let it sort itself out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T02:36:14.497" Title="Hyosung GT250R Leaking petrol" Tags="|motorcycle|hyosung|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21984" CreationDate="2015-10-24T02:52:12.457" Score="6" ViewCount="16869" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's paint looks bad and I'd like to repair it, but I'm not sure what it is called. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are different types of paint failure, what do they look like and what are they called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T00:05:44.167" Title="What does paint failure look like?" Tags="|troubleshooting|paint|damage|exterior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21983" CreationDate="2015-10-24T02:52:12.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appreciate the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pdf/Troubleshooting_Guide_English_PDF.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sherwin-Willaims Automotive Paint Troubleshooting Guide (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; for this. It is a very thorough guide that gives descriptions of what is going wrong, why, and how to avoid/fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rundown of various problems with sample pictures of common names for problems. You can use the names as a starting point for further research. I'll be using the format of &lt;code&gt;name (synonyms) [appearance time]&lt;/code&gt; and where possible I've added links to relevant Mechanics.SE links to other questions related to those paint problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Air Trapping (Craters) [Rapidly during/after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bk02T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bk02T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;air trapping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bleeding (Discoloration) [Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VuWc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VuWc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bleeding&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Blistering (Pimples, bubbles, bumps) [Often weeks/months after application]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aFO7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aFO7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blistering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Blushing (Milkiness) [Rapidly during/after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5uUO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5uUO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blushing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chalking (Fading, oxidation, weathering) [Rapidly after painting/Naturally over time]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMyTQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMyTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chalking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21861/why-should-i-clean-bug-and-bird-debris-off-my-car&quot;&gt;Chemical staining/etching&lt;/a&gt; (Spotting, acid rain, discoloration) [Happens due to chemicals on paint]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXmBW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXmBW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;acid rain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JQDw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2JQDw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bird poop etching&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chipping (nicks, stone pecks, chips, bruises) [Happens during driving]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LFSk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2LFSk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chipping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Color Mismatch (Off shade, off color) [Noticed during/after painting/drying]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQA0X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQA0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;color mismatch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21482/paint-is-cracking-and-showing-lines-like-dried-mud&quot;&gt;Cracking&lt;/a&gt; (Checking, Crazing, Spitting, Alligatoring, Crowsfeet) [can happen over long periods of time]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGtYV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGtYV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dirt Contamination (dust in finish) [Rapidly during/after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYAZV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYAZV.png&quot; alt=&quot;dirt contamination&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edge Mapping (Edge ringing, featheredge lifting) [Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiIsh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tiIsh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;edge mapping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fisheye (Silicone contamination, cratering) [Rapidly after painting, not later]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGnkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGnkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fisheye&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Loss of Gloss (Hazing, dulling, dieback, matting, weathering) [Rapidly after painting/Naturally over time]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhIVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhIVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;loss of gloss&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Lifting (Wrinkling, raising, alligatoring, shriveling, swelling) [Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJDCC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJDCC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lifting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mottling (Streaking, floating, flooding, tiger/zebra stripes) [Rapidly after painting, may not be immediately noticed]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5lrV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5lrV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mottling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Orange Peel (Poor flow, texture) [Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0T4s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0T4s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;orange peel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19042/roof-paint-peeling-badly-with-rust-what-to-do&quot;&gt;Peeling&lt;/a&gt; (Flaking, delamination, loss of adhesion) [Many causes, many times]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIxdX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIxdX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;peeling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pinholing (popping, bubbles, air pockets) [usually above body filler, rapidly during sanding]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arVpW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arVpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pinholing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rail Dust (Rust specks) [Over time spots appear]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myVVE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myVVE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rail dust&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sagging/Running (hangers, curtains, signatures) [Rapidly during/after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRlTs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRlTs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sagging/running&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sanding Marks (Streaked finish, sand scratches) [After sanding]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5hoG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5hoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sanding marks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Seediness (Gritty, Dirty, grainy, speckled) [Rapidly during painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't actually find a good picture of what this ends up looking like, likely because it's something that can be identified quickly while still painting. It happens when the paint material isn't working correctly, possibly due to age, lack of mixing or other contamination. It'll basically look like a metal speckled paint, but you weren't intending speckling to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Shrinkage (Bullseyes, Ringing, Edge mapping) [Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C41BP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C41BP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shrinkage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Soft Film (Slow dry) [Paint is soft, will pick up finger prints. Rapidly after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkhZo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkhZo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;soft film&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solvent Popping (Boiling, blowing) [Weeks after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W67zx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W67zx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;solvent popping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tape Tracking (tracks) [Upon tape removal]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also can't find a good clear example of this. This is when the tape fails to properly separate colors due to using the wrong tape, or putting tape on a finish that isn't quite dry, leading to solvent hanging out and letting the next color bleed into the tape, then into the paint under the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Transparency (Poor hiding, poor coverage, translucent, color bleed) [Rapidly after/during painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nUOO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nUOO.png&quot; alt=&quot;transparency&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Water Spotting (Water Marking) [Rapidly after painting, or after washing]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umKGK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umKGK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;water spotting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wrinlking (Crinkling, puckering, shriveling) [Rapidly during/after painting]&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXAw2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXAw2.png&quot; alt=&quot;wrinkling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T02:52:12.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T04:27:42.183" Score="3" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm swapping out a worn out 6L90 transmission that has over 220k on it in a 2011 GMC 2500 HD with one that has 89k on it from an identical truck. Will it have to be reflashed or reprogrammed to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12836" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T12:27:38.313" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T20:23:36.420" Title="6L90 Transmission swap" Tags="|transmission|gmc|compatibility|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21985" CreationDate="2015-10-24T12:44:57.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it came out of another &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; vehicle, the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) &lt;strong&gt;should not need reflashed&lt;/strong&gt;. What I mean by &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; is, another GMC or Chevrolet 2500 HD truck of the same year. As long as we are on par there, there shouldn't be any issues with the swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T12:44:57.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T12:47:04.347" Score="2" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to replace a single tire on the front axle and if yes should the new tire be moved to the back? We replaced a front right tire, after picking up a screw. Now we hear that it's not safe to replace a single tire on the same axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12838" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T12:49:17.140" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T09:14:24.133" Title="Replacing a single tire" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-29T19:54:11.757" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19443" CreationDate="2015-10-24T15:18:29.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Lugging the engine is less hard on connecting rods then it is on other parts of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts in the engine have their own strength. Some parts are stronger than others. Each part has its own job and their own life expectancy. When you lug an engine, you are prematurely wearing on all of the parts of the engine, but that wear is not equal amongst the parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lugging the engine is mostly hard on the rotating assembly of the engine. The parts that take the hardest beating are the soft parts of the engine, most noticeably the bearings and rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings can suffer the most. When lugging the engine, you are at a lower RPM, which means less oil flow. Since there is less oil flow, there is a propensity for the crankshaft journal at the rods to squish out all available oil and for it to actually come in contact with the bearing surface. Each time this happens, it creates more wear. If lugging occurs for a prolonged period of time, it makes it even worse. Once unnatural wear like this occurs, the bearing becomes slightly out of round, which allows more oil to escape, which makes lugging more detrimental, which ... hopefully you get the picture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piston rings are the next hardest hit because they seal the piston in the cylinder. Rings are fragile creatures. Under abusive situations, they can break. This would normally happen in the top compression rings, but if lugging were severe enough, could happen in the secondary compression rings as well. When a ring breaks, you get compression loss in that cylinder which decreases performance. When this happens in just one cylinder, you get an power imbalance within the engine which creates it's own issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next part of the rotating assembly to take a beating are the pistons. While pistons are strong, they are not indestructible. Most newer engines use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hyperuetectic piston&lt;/a&gt; technology. Basically, the piston is made out of an aluminum alloy, something which has been done for many years. Forged aluminum pistons were the mainstay of racing technology mainly because of their strength over cast aluminum pistons. Their major drawback was they incurred thermal expansion at a greater rate than cast pistons. In order to run the forged piston, you had to leave greater space between the piston and cylinder walls. This allowed more piston slap until the piston expanded to its running size and things quieted down. This was not good for passenger cars as owners couldn't deal with the noise (secondarily, the expense was greater as well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhere along the line, those engineering geniuses figured out by using a hyperuetectic aluminum alloy, one with a higher amount of silicon in the aluminum than the aluminum can absorb, you create a much stronger alloy. Hyperuetectic pistons are used because they are more dimensionally stable than forged pistons and are a lot stronger than eutectic or &lt;em&gt;hypo&lt;/em&gt;eutectic pistons. The trade off for having the stronger alloy is that it is more prone to shattering when under high shock load. This is really self evident when using nitrous oxide (NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;) in performance applications. It is therefor not advised to use this type of piston when utilizing NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. As for lugging the engine, it provides many of the same stresses on the piston as does NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. There is a distinct hammering effect on the piston which can cause failure. In Carroll Smith's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0615754090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engieer to Win&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, he states (pg. 101):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simplistically put, under repeated (cyclic as opposed to continuous) stress the capacity of a metal to withstand stress gradually diminishes and, in most cases, cannot be restored. Metals which are subjected to fluctuating loads can and do break after a finite number of load cycles (or, more accurately, stress cycles) in which the loads applied and the resultant stresses imposed are always below the ultimate strength of the metal. This type of failure is termed &lt;em&gt;fatigue failure&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: I detail this further in an answer about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18184/4152&quot;&gt;stress risers&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the book, Carroll Smith describes that parts which are made to handle stress can do so almost indefinitely if the stresses parted on them are below their engineered threshold. Once you go past the engineered threshold, the part won't normally fail right away, but stresses will add up over time. As the stress loads increase over the engineered values, the stress build up occurs at a greater rate until the part reaches failure. (ie: a part may be able to withstand 10,000 stress cycles at a given load, but double that stress and it may only be able to handle 10 stress cycles). Also, remember this is an accumulative effect: a part subjected to abuse &lt;em&gt;will not heal itself&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a scale which describes what Carroll Smith is talking about (copied from the book, pg 109, figure 93):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkS9H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkS9H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The above graph is used specifically for specific ferrous metal alloys, but the general ideas which are laid out through the graph can be used to describe how &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; metal will behave under stress.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this translate to the piston? Well, it translates to all the parts of the engine in a lugging situation, but affects the piston &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; because it is not built to handle the stresses which lugging creates. It won't fail right away, but realize every time you do lug an engine, you bring that part closer to failure faster. The main area of a piston which could see failure is the ring lands. This is the part of the piston which supports the rings. The next part which sees these stresses is the pin boss, where the connecting rod attaches to the piston. This is less of a worry area, mainly because it is engineered to handle a lot of stress. The ring lands are much more susceptible mainly because they are not that thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next two areas of concern are the connecting rods (or rods for short) and crankshaft. The reason why these are of concern is because they are part of the rotating assembly. The reason they are farther down the list of concerns is because these parts are &lt;em&gt;designed to take these stresses better than the above described parts&lt;/em&gt;. The rods and crankshaft, while strong, are also designed to &lt;em&gt;flex&lt;/em&gt;. This flexing (called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deformation_(engineering)#Elastic_deformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elastic deformation&lt;/a&gt;) allows them to deform slightly and return to their normal shapes. This helps them absorb the stresses which they are subjected to time and time again without &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deformation_(engineering)#Plastic_deformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic deformation&lt;/a&gt;. Plastic deformation of a connecting rod usually occurs because the stresses put on them exceed their engineered limit. Rods fail primarily for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their rod bolts fail at high rpms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of lubrication at the bearing creates drag on the rod, which exposes it to twisting forces causing plastic deformation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, if enough lugging occurs, it will have a detrimental effect. &lt;em&gt;The problem is, other parts are going to fail before the rod will&lt;/em&gt;. These other part failures (usually bearings) may induce rod failure, but this is a byproduct of the original part failing and not due to the lugging itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft, like the rods, takes a lot of abuse, but can usually take the abuse due to how it's constructed. It is meant to have elastic deformation and rebound back to its original shape. Were it not, it would gain stress risers and die a mean ugly death very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parts of the engine which see wear due to lugging are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder walls&lt;/strong&gt; - During lugging, extra side load is put upon the piston, which forces them into the cylinder walls. This creates more wear and scuffing, which can make the cylinders go out of round (also scuffs the piston skirts as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing belt/chain&lt;/strong&gt; - Lugging creates extra jarring on the belt/chain, which has an overall accumulative effect on these parts as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T15:18:29.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22050" CreationDate="2015-10-24T18:53:52.497" Score="5" ViewCount="19172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear that there is a key code for my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 LT that can be given to a dealer who can then cut a new key for my bike if ever necessary. Now it is. But where do I find the key code?? I am the 3rd owner but I have all the original paperwork when the bike was purchased new but they left the spot for the key code empty! So what do I do now??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12842" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T19:57:03.007" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T00:28:14.960" Title="Is there a key code with my Kawasaki" Tags="|motorcycle|key|kawasaki|code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T19:10:22.157" Score="4" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister gave me this car for school and she told me this happens a lot. Her mechanic friend says it's an alarm problem and my alarm is locked. Unfortunately her and her friend live on the opposite side of the state so they can't help me. But basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car only unlocks manually &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The remote itself lights when I click it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lock button inside my car doesn't work either&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car won't ignite - no clicks, lights, or sounds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My wheel is straightened out &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T23:09:58.650" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T23:09:58.650" Title="Car won't unlock with remote and won't start? Toyota Camry 1999" Tags="|toyota|ignition|repair|camry|fob|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8294" CreationDate="2015-10-24T19:30:54.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just over cvt transmission it is not hard at all. Master rebuild kits includes forward clutches, reverse clutches and start clutches. I think it is so easy then other auto transmission.  Parts only $500.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12845" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T19:30:54.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T19:42:53.613" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me where the location of the power window relay is situated in a 1971 Pontiac Grandville?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Hans&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12846" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T19:51:46.827" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T19:51:46.827" Title="power window relay Pontiac Grandville 1971" Tags="|pontiac|power-windows|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T23:32:51.670" Score="3" ViewCount="30061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Honda Accord coupe equipped with Electric Power Steering (EPS). When cranking the steering wheel, I can hear a noise coming from the steering column, mostly at slow speed like backing out of a parking spot. It's not overly noisy, but I certainly never noticed any noise coming from the steering column with hydraulic power steering. The noise is kind of a rattling noise, sort of like a loose or improperly lubricated bearing. At first I thought this was just something common to EPS and nothing to be concerned about, but I'm beginning to wonder if I should have it looked at. I have not taken the car to the dealer yet, for fear that they will just tell me it's normal and tell me to go away. Opinions?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; I took the car in to the Honda dealer. They think (are pretty sure) that the noise is coming from the SRS cable reel.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I did a quick Google search, and it looks like the part can be a problem. If it seizes and the cable breaks (it's just a thin, flat ribbon cable coiled up inside), you can lose all the steering wheel controls (cruise, volume, air bag, etc).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm glad I'm having it looked at while the car is still under warranty. I will post the final outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T17:42:48.057" LastActivityDate="2020-12-22T17:42:25.353" Title="Electric power steering column noise" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2015-10-24T23:48:28.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try unplugging the mass air flow sensor. It's between the air intake filter and throttle body connection. If it runs there is the problem. Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T23:48:28.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2015-10-25T02:42:31.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glow plugs need to get hot.&#xA;So the wattage needs to be quite high.&#xA;From a 12 battery we need a pretty high current then,&#xA;If the resistance of a glow plug is say 0.6 ohms then fed at 12 volts the current flowing is  I=V/r  I =12/0.6 which is 20 amps.&#xA;The gives a power in watts of 12v x 20 amps= 240 watts.&#xA;That is for one glow plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the resistance read when cold and then when hot is very different.&#xA;As elements ( inside the glow plug ) heat up the resistance goes up a lot.&#xA;So it takes less current then it appears it will by the resistance reading we got.&#xA;A healthy battery is therefore a good thing.&#xA;Lets say the power is about 120 Watts per glow plug that is still 3 x 120 Watts or 360 watts. That will draw 360/12 volts from the battery - 30 amps.&#xA;And the starter will won't a big big share of what the battery can supply!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test these in place. Remove the connecting supply lead then connect one terminal (any) to the metal nearby and the other to the top of each glow plug in turn. Short the test leads together first as this amount in ohms needs be taken away from the test results. Use the lowest range of resistance the meter reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way to confirm the glow plugs are working is to take them out and connect the 12 battery to each in turn, Connect one lead (either) to the body metalwork of the glow plug. Then the other battery terminal to the cap of the glow plug. It will do what glow plugs do if OK- glow! Watch your leads don't touch or there will be a big spark and keep the leads away from the car body if the battery is still in place and connected in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12849" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T22:14:04.777" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T22:14:04.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22030" CreationDate="2015-10-25T03:00:21.120" Score="10" ViewCount="195693" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad has a 1993 Subaru Legacy L 2.2L (no turbo) with a perplexing cooling problem. It overheats, and there doesn't appear to be flow through the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper radiator hose is extremely hot, the lower radiator hose is cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermostat has been replaced 3 times now. They have all been put in boiling water, and they all opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has been parked on an inclined and filled with coolant, been jacked up and filled, we've used the cap to vent, we've used the bleeder to vent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a while, he ran without a thermostat, but the seals in the water pump failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got home from replacing the water pump. The car still overheats. Again, upper hose hot, lower cold. The radiator is &lt;em&gt;cold&lt;/em&gt; by the lower hose, then warm in an arc around the cold section, then hot along the top and on the entire passenger half of the radiator. Radiator fluid overflowed the overflow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss; it seems like there's a no flow condition, but a garden hose in one end of the radiator got water flowing out the other end and the thermostat(s) have all been tested. Is it possible to have coolant flow through the engine blocked? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would love it if it were the radiator as it's extremely easy to swap out, but a garden hose on one end passed (clear) water through without backing up on the inlet side. I would think that &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; flow through the radiator would get the whole thing at least warm and definitely warm up the lower radiator hose. Is there another test we can do to check it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will sound crazy, but neither radiator fan works. HOWEVER, as there is no flow through the radiator (lower radiator hose and bottom driver's quarter of the radiator are COLD), my first concern is getting flow through the radiator and then I'll worry about the radiator fans. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything worked fine with no thermostat (and no radiator fans), but the seal failed in the water pump after maybe 5-10k miles. The car was purchased used and had cooling issues from the start. The garage that sold the car replaced the water pump after the sale, then when that didn't fix anything they said the radiator was clogged and flushed it. Things got a little better, but the car still overheated. This was when the first two thermostats were installed. Eventually Dad removed the thermostat entirely and the car ran fine until the water pump seal failed. When I replaced it yesterday I suggested we install the thermostat, et voila, heat issues return. There is a bypass line before the thermostat, but I don't remember looking at a coolant schematic so I couldn't say where that line goes for sure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:EDIT 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car overheated on 3 mile test drive and didn't cool off at all despite coasting the second half of that drive at 35mph with a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:EDIT 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no heat from the car with the heater on and the fan at full speed, but there is also very little air flow from the vents. The no heat situation persists regardless of engine temperature; what little air there is feels the same with the engine cold or fully overheated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12850" LastEditorUserId="12850" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T15:03:06.907" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T17:08:32.710" Title="Blocked water flow in engine?" Tags="|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21989" CreationDate="2015-10-25T07:06:55.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First rule of tires: Tires with the deepest tread go on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second rule of tires: On vehicles with All Wheel Drive (AWD) tread depths are not to vary by more than 2/32&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule one is required because vehicle control can be lost if the rear tires hydroplane before the front tires.&#xA;Rule two is required by most manufactures of AWD gear because the equalizing clutch unit can be damaged if the tires outside diameter varies too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a tire of larger diameter on one side of an axle is generally OK because the differential unit is designed to compensate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind the principal that the tire with the shallowest tread depth will hydroplane first on a wet road. This breaks grip and can cause loss of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally all the tires on a vehicle will be rotated in such a way that tread depths will be kept close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For optimal braking traction and reduced loss of control due to hydroplaning replace tires worn to 4/32&quot; tread depth remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T07:06:55.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22009" CreationDate="2015-10-25T07:11:56.760" Score="2" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for a set of used wheels. Most sellers don't know the bolt hole measurements and just say the number of holes and the vehicle they came from, &quot;5 bolt for Jeep Cherokee/Tacoma/Nissan/...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a Web calculator or chart somewhere that lists vehicle bolt pattern equivalents, arranged by Make and Model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, can anyone tell me what vehicles match Dodge Journey (2009)? E.g. &lt;em&gt;&quot;rims from Nissan Rogue and ... and ... will fit on Dodge Journey and ...&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OEM is 5 bolt x 127mm centres, 6-7&quot;wide, 35-44mm offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9284" LastEditorUserId="9284" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T15:17:32.983" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T15:17:32.983" Title="Bolt pattern equivalency reference" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29347" CreationDate="2015-10-25T09:07:37.700" Score="16" ViewCount="2636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange noise, like a rattling/stomping sound at idle, when pressing the clutch pedal. The clutch and the flywheel (DMF), were both changed with new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for that sound, the car handles perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone came across something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:17:52.300" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:17:52.300" Title="Engine noise / rattle when clutch is fully pressed [BMW 320d e46, manual]" Tags="|clutch|320d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21989" CreationDate="2015-10-25T09:14:24.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unsafe only if the other tires are quite worn out. Otherwise, there's no problem, the only thing to keep in mind is that the new tire should go in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T09:14:24.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21873" CreationDate="2015-10-25T09:36:20.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the break pads are not engaging the in same time, or are not worn out uniformly, will still not make a squeaking sound. So the explanation of your dealer makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem - the rotor from the rear left was corroded and when the break pads were engaged the rotor used to vibrate, hence creating a squeaking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest to consult a mechanic in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hubpages.com/autos/4-Common-Brake-Squeaks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hubpages.com/autos/4-Common-Brake-Squeaks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T09:36:20.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22004" CreationDate="2015-10-25T11:46:07.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term you are looking for is 'PCD' or pitch circle diameter. Take a look at this website, it lists your car along with almost every other!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelfitment.eu/car/Dodge/Journey%20(2008%20-%20).html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheelfitment.eu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12801" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T11:46:07.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-25T12:59:36.313" Score="3" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki vl250. It's been running great until last weekend I rode it home from work turned it off and the Mrs decided she wanted to go for a ride only problem is bike wont start! Since then I have managed to start the bike twice. The fist time it rode fine switched it off went back to it a few hours later and no go. I got it home on a trailer and a week later drained the float bowl and cleaned the plugs and boom she fired up. But after letting it idle for about 5 mins I went to give it a little throttle and it stalled and now wont start again. Motor tried to turn over and seems to have less enthusiasm each time I hit the starter button. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12856" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T21:10:44.930" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T00:14:24.387" Title="Suzuki vl 250 wont start" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-25T20:54:18.413" Score="2" ViewCount="8989" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Santa Fe wont start. I turn the key and I have power but no starter engaging. They looked at my car two days later and the car started. They said it was probably a broken wire they found on the ignition harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two days later the exact thing happened again. Hyundai said guarantee its the ground wire to the chassis. I told the mechanics this, but it sat for a week (they were busy ... not knocking them, they were busy). Anyway, they finally got it in to check. What I was told and before they even looked they tried the key and it worked!! They did check the ground cable and it was all corroded. Drove it home yesterday went to start it ... same problem again!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T21:05:20.980" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T21:33:00.317" Title="my 2003 Santa Fe won't turn over but has full power" Tags="|starting|hyundai|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22010" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:15:41.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you float is allowing too much fuel in the bowl, which is in effect flooding the bike. When you said you drained the bowl and cleaned the plug and it fired right up is a typical sign of this happening. Also, after five minutes of idle time, stalling when you give it throttle, then not wanting to start could be a sign of dumping too much fuel as well. Like I said in my comment, a good running vehicle (near stoich) will have a light tan color. If it's black it means it's either getting too much fuel or is burning oil (a 2-stroke motor will have black plugs). Either the float is sinking (not sealed and taking on fuel) or the needle valve continues to allow fuel to come into the bowl after the float has seated it. I'd suggest getting a float and needle valve kit for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for it getting more sluggish, I'd bet you are running down the battery with constantly trying to get it started. I'd suggest putting the battery on a charger and getting it up to full capacity and trying it again. I'll be you'll see a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T21:15:41.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22014" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:24:44.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter solenoid contacts are probably badly worn which causes the intermittent starting.  You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking each time you turn the key.  Occasionally a good contact will be made on the solenoid contacts and the starter will turn.  If you are confident, you could use an old screwdriver across the large connections on the solenoid (if they are both visible) to bypass the solenoid to see if the starter then turns.  Make sure the car is out of gear and the ignition is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T21:33:00.317" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T21:33:00.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:46:49.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a Mazda and Ford problem. You do not have air that just appeared in the system, this is a ABS  actuator fault allowing pressure to bleed past the valves in the actuator. The fault has been known to go away at times when reactivating the abs on gravel or icy roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not go away you need to replace the very expensive abs unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this should be a safety recall by Ford and Mazda. Call the Mazda or Ford head office and complain!. Many master cylinders have been replaced due to this abs fault, changing it will not fix this problem. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12863" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T22:21:09.113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T22:21:09.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22028" CreationDate="2015-10-25T23:51:20.760" Score="2" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't various A/F ratio problems such as vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure or clogged injectors cause a constant adjustment to fuel trims, first via STFT and then to LTFT?  For example, if there is a air / vacuum leak significant enough to cause noticable idle problems wouldn't that cause a more or less constant attempt by the computer to compensate by adding fuel, even at idle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T05:21:45.533" Title="Air / Fuel Ratio Problems relation to Fuel Trims" Tags="|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22000" CreationDate="2015-10-26T00:35:54.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you filled the system and started the engine with the radiator cap off? See if system circulation is there or blow back meaning a head and / or head gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T00:35:54.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22000" CreationDate="2015-10-26T01:07:20.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having a similar problem with my '97 Accord.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fans weren't working so I thought that was the cause of the overheating.  I shorted them to always be on, but it kept overheating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the thermostat in boiling water.  Opened as usual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I refilled the system with coolant after checking the thermostat, I poured the coolant directly into the radiator, instead of the reservoir.  And the overheating stopped!  The fans then went on automatically too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though my reservoir was always at the right level, I guess I had a tiny leak in the radiator.  When the radiator emptied, the coolant wouldn't flow and the fans wouldn't go on.  I didn't think the radiator could be empty with the reservoir full.  So that was a learning experience.  So long as I put coolant in the radiator periodically, the car ran fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got a small leak in your radiator, you might not have noticed it by flushing it with your hose.  See if it still overheats after filling the radiator directly (not via the reservoir).  If that works, try some StopLeak or egg whites.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T01:07:20.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22024" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-26T01:22:40.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question that is related to the safe use of tools, how to use safety equipment or what safety hazards equipment, materials and procedures require can use the safety tag to help guide others to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you are asking involved wondering if something can cause bodily harm, this tag is for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topics can include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21846/is-a-tire-with-exposed-wire-safe-to-drive-on&quot;&gt;Is something safe in its current condition?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21129/is-it-recommended-necessary-to-wear-rubber-gloves-while-replacing-a-car-battery&quot;&gt;Is a piece of safety gear required?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17637/leaving-vehicle-on-4-jack-stands-several-days&quot;&gt;Is what I'm doing safe?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21032/how-to-properly-add-engine-oil&quot;&gt;How do I safely do something?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T16:13:29.287" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T16:13:29.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22025" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-26T01:22:40.073" Score="0" Body="Questions relating to the safe use of tools, safety procedures, use of safety equipment and other methods of avoiding harm to yourself or others." OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="12743" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T16:13:34.900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T16:13:34.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22027" CreationDate="2015-10-26T01:39:12.870" Score="4" ViewCount="24840" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mechanician that I know told me that the damage on the inside lip (extra rubber inside, not the bead) of the tire like the image below is normal and often happens when mounting/unmounting tires each year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is fine (holding air correctly) and the guy who told me that is not the one who did this damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: Does this kind of damage is normal or it should not really happen with modern equipment and a good technician?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is run-flat tires, which are more stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikWTR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikWTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T02:14:10.160" Title="Tire damage from mounting/unmounting, normal?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22026" CreationDate="2015-10-26T02:14:10.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately damage like this is very common. This damage normally happens when the tire is being dismounted. The bead of the tire has steel chords inside it so it can't stretch. To mount the tire the rim has a narrow spot in the middle. This narrow spot allows the bead to be worked on and off by allowing one side to slip into the narrow spot and the other to slip over the edge of the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In low profile tires getting the second bead pushed down until it's at the level of the narrow spot is very difficult. This can put extra strain the the inside edge of the bead at the opposite side. When mounting the tire the bead is pushed down form the top making it difficult to damage. When dismounting the bead is pulled up from underneath making the bead extra vulnerable. If using equipment that is not specifically designed for low profile tires or having a poorly trained technician will result in this damage. Unfortunately I have personally caused this same damage so no one is immune, but it is avoidable/preventable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim is clean and the tire is not severely damaged it should be just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T02:14:10.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22020" CreationDate="2015-10-26T02:25:57.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have hit the nail on the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is in closed loop, this part is important, the fuel trims reflect the current A/F ratio. When a vacuum leak develops, first the car will compensate withe the sort term fuel trims. When the STFT stay high long enough (every car is different) they will cause the LTFT to drift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current fuel systems are so tight that inducing even the slightest leak will be reflected first by the STFT and then by the LTFT even at idle. This is actually a great test to see if a car is in fuel control. Induce a vacuum leak while watching the fuel trims they should climb. Then using propane, induce some in to the system and the fuel trims should fall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T02:25:57.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15071" CreationDate="2015-10-26T02:29:50.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the ACC temperature sensor is getting wet, confusing it into thinking the interior is colder than it really is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an &quot;interior temp&quot; reading on your dash, it probably uses the same sensor.  See that it shows about 58 when wet and normal temperature when dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case... find the sensor!  If you don't have a service manual, google might help you figure out where it is.  Chances are, it has water leaking onto it.  Maybe you can put a little cocktail umbrella over it.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T02:29:50.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22000" CreationDate="2015-10-26T06:17:25.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this was in my bay I would proceed as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair fans: It will overheat at idle without the fans. The first test for this is to turn on the A/C, both, one or none will come on.  Test and repair as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test for system flow: Remove the inlet hose to the heater at the firewall. Test pressure and flow rate. A lot of water should be pushed out when the engine is revved. The pump should make at least 10 psi. This gives the relative heath of the water pump.  The most common cause of poor flow in a Subaru is air trapped in the engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would flow test the radiator and visually inspect the radiator interior.  The flow tests is not very helpful.  A radiator can flow great but not transfer heat if it is fouled with coolant scale deposits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description I would repair fans first, replace the radiator, put it all back together. Test after repairs by timing the fan run time. If the fans are off most to the time and the fans run only about 20% of the time and the fans blow warm air it is fixed. If the fans run most to the time and the air coming out is cold it is not fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T14:00:24.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T14:00:24.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22032" CreationDate="2015-10-26T07:24:38.413" Score="6" ViewCount="2403" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This isn't a &quot;maintenance &amp;amp; repair&quot; question, I hope you'll forgive me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When powerful electric cars (such as, but not only, the Tesla) can accelerate from zero to ludicrous in half a jiffy, and can do regenerative braking, then why do they still use &quot;old school&quot; &lt;em&gt;mechanical&lt;/em&gt; disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;em&gt;acceleration&lt;/em&gt; ability not equate &lt;em&gt;deceleration&lt;/em&gt; ability? Is the brake construction mandated by law (I know, this depends on location, but seems to be the case for all brands anyhow)? Or is it a safety feature (no power=no braking, oops)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastEditorUserId="6473" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T07:39:31.690" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:00:01.820" Title="Why do high-end electric cars have mechanical brakes?" Tags="|brakes|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22031" CreationDate="2015-10-26T07:42:59.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not so much that the motors can't brake like mad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's as you hint at yourself that any auto-mobile that is required to be fully road legal needs two completely separate systems for braking, in case one of them fails. It's why even the most automated gas-fuelled cars still had a hand-brake type system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It originates from the perceived unreliability of hard to maintain systems, such as hidden cables or liquid braking systems, so that there was a way to stop the vehicle, be it slower, if one of them fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10858" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T07:42:59.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8899" CreationDate="2015-10-26T08:41:35.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;my personal experience. The fuel filter in the engine bay was clogged and had very dirty fuel. The car was sluggish inspite of new plugs and spark cables. The throttle body was also cleaned and voila! the change was instant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12868" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T08:41:35.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22035" CreationDate="2015-10-26T09:28:33.533" Score="3" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following this guide: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-your-check-engine-light/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-your-check-engine-light/?ALLSTEPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this website an OBD-II reader will work with my 53 Vauxall Zafira, but I want to be sure they are a universal standard. Will any reader do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T14:30:09.403" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T22:44:40.993" Title="Is OBD-II a universal standard?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22034" CreationDate="2015-10-26T10:23:33.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, OBD-II is an international standard that (almost) all car manufacturers use for vehicle diagnostics. Your car will have an OBD-II port on it somewhere for connecting an adapter to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/322/what-are-good-features-to-look-for-in-an-odb-ii-reader?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for what to look for in an adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T10:23:33.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:47:58.637" Score="8" ViewCount="5265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Toyota Rav4 - The other day, the car wouldn't start. We jumped the battery and it started right up. No lights were left on and nothing is plugged in that would be causing this. I took it to the dealership and they said the battery was fine. Every morning it struggles to start, but eventually starts up. The dealership said it may be because I don't drive it far enough daily - However, I drive the car every day and I don't think that is the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like an issue with the alternator or starter - or does it just sound like the battery is bad - but was charged after jumping it and gave false results? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12870" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T16:05:41.523" Title="My car has problems starting, but the dealership checked the battery and said it was fine" Tags="|toyota|battery|starting|rav4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:02:47.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mitsubishi Gallant-2004. Just recently, while driving, the car radio will cut out then come back on. After about a minute of doing this it will stop working completely. Lights do not dim, car seems to run ok. However when I park and turn the car off it will not start again. I put a new battery in. A week later it does the same thing. This time I let the car sit for a couple of hours and it started. The car sat for a couple of days and the next time I drove it, it did the same thing. This did start happening after filling the gas tank. Any ideas as to what is causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12873" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:29:13.087" Title="Car radio cuts out the car will not start" Tags="|starting|fuel-system|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22039" CreationDate="2015-10-26T14:32:41.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a bad connection somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the battery terminals.  Replace the connectors if they cannot tighten down enough to make a good solid connection.  Check that the grounds are tight and making a good connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T22:29:13.087" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:29:13.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22042" CreationDate="2015-10-26T15:01:08.397" Score="6" ViewCount="25661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I can take my car to a workshop and have a Dyno Run and can read the HP and torque figures from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know, is there an alternative way to know the HP and Torque figures without using a DYNO?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:08:19.777" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T02:57:03.087" Title="Measuring Horse Power and torque without a dynamometer" Tags="|power|torque|dynamometer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22041" CreationDate="2015-10-26T15:28:44.647" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an app for that!  Basically if you can constantly measure the acceleration of your car, you can calculate horsepower and torque.  I know I have seen advertisements in car magazines in the past for devices you would sick to the windshield, but since smartphones are so widespread and have such advanced accelerometers, Apps have taken over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I need to provide a link and artificially endorse one app over another.  Just search your app store for &quot;0 to 60&quot;, or &quot;horsepower&quot; and you will find a ton of options.  Many of the apps will recommend using a good sturdy mount for your phone so that it stays firmly connected to the car (most often the windshield) to get the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the hardest parts of getting accurate results is knowing exactly how much your car weighs.  You can use online estimates for your model, but finding an accurate scale (like at a truck stop) might be the best way to get a true measurement of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T16:16:17.600" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T16:16:17.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T15:57:29.363" Score="2" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a/c current in a home rather than a vehicle, I don't think one would ever get a positive ground. Electricity always flow from the positive to the negative from what I have been learning about a/c voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle's battery is connected by a positive ground, does it mean that the electricity is flowing from neg. to positive rather than positive to negative ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T22:31:31.267" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:31:31.267" Title="positive ground / neg. ground" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T16:08:10.693" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude. Every time I pump gas the rpm dies down and even turns off some times. It doesn't matter if it's $10, $20, or a full tank it happens. I just wanna know what was can do to fix this.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12875" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T22:09:30.093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:59:10.563" Title="Low rpm when gas is pumped" Tags="|honda|prelude|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22047" CreationDate="2015-10-26T17:38:51.117" Score="3" ViewCount="8730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hearing mixed opinions how much should I tighten an oil filter. Does it depend on car or filter type? How do I find out the proper torque number that I need to apply to an oil filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I wish I asked this question before may last Oil Change. My Toyota Matrix 2012 oil filter cap was VERY tight (perhaps done by the dealer)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5TWl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y5TWl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Matrix 2012 Oil Filter Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I used this tool to open it, then perhaps very much overtighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aZHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aZHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tekton - 3-3/4&amp;quot; Flex Oil Filter Wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I though there is pressure in the Oil pan, so I have to tighten it hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my oil pan survives this time, I won't do it again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you, everyone, for help and comments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T03:26:23.947" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T01:47:35.443" Title="How do I find out the proper torque number that I need to apply to an oil filter?" Tags="|oil-change|torque|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22052" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:45:01.723" Score="4" ViewCount="22439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively expensive 1/2-inch torque wrench. Not all of my sockets are 1/2&quot; and many of them are smaller. Is there any problem with using a socket adapter, so I can use my 1/2-inch torque wrench with smaller sockets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T23:00:13.253" LastActivityDate="2022-11-26T20:25:42.987" Title="Can I use my 1/2 inch torque wrench with smaller sockets?" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22045" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:47:45.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most oil filters have instructions for tightness printed on them, and they normally read like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tighten by hand until base contact, and then tighten an additional 1/4 turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall ever seeing torque mentioned, because the filter housing relies on the rubber o-ring seal rather than mechanical tightness to seal in the oil.  Too much torque will deform the seal and could cause leaks, or make removal very difficult for the next oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that's for screw-on type filters that are their own housing.  For cartridge style filters that go into an engine housing, the housing may have specific torque requirements.  My VW Jetta had such a system, but even then the torque for the housing was very low - like 10Nm or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T18:47:45.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22046" CreationDate="2015-10-26T19:38:44.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/4in is the smallest size drivers normally come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I've found with using an adapter that converts to a size smaller than the driver is when you have to put huge loads on the wrench. Sometimes when this happens, it can break the wall of the smaller socket or break the square part of the adapter off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure your sockets and adapter seem strong enough to handle the task at hand. For example, You probably don't want to put all your weight on a 1/4in adapter/socket with a 2ft handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T19:38:44.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22043" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:25:57.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a DC battery, electricity actually flows from the negative (where the electrons are repelled) to the positive (where the electrons are attracted) side of the battery. It doesn't matter which grounding method you use (positive or negative ground), the electricity will still flow the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=583&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illinois Education website&lt;/a&gt; the question of electricity flow is answered thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Electrons are negatively charged, and so are attracted to the positive end of a battery and repelled by the negative end. So when the battery is hooked up to something that lets the electrons flow through it, they flow from negative to positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part vehicles use a negative ground (earth). Manufacturers quit using a positive ground (how things started in the automobile industry) because with this setup, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;galvanic corrosion&lt;/a&gt; occurs. Some vehicle still use a positive ground, but they are far and few between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find more information &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1934/what-are-the-tradeoffs-for-positive-vs-negative-ground&quot;&gt;in this Q/A&lt;/a&gt; which will help answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:25:57.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21991" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:49:01.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, Kawasaki's have their key code stamped into the ignition switch.  Removal of the ignition switch is required in order to view the key code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe with Kawasaki's you be required to have a pin in torx (also referred to as tamperless torx) driver in order to remove the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mqsqb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mqsqb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Where to look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*On original key--if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*On Ignition housing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Stamped on the back side of the Helmet lock-- Hint:  Removal is generally very easy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Seat lock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Fork lock housing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Call dealer with VIN to obtain code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T19:01:16.357" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T19:01:16.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4600" CreationDate="2015-10-26T22:55:22.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's entirely possible to burn out the alternator and battery by hooking the jumper box (or jumper cables) up backwards. The alternator can fry rather quickly (diodes will fry and the alternator becomes useless). The battery can take longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when you hook a battery up in series (backwards) instead of parallel (normal), you create a circuit. This will not only create sparks, it generates a lot of heat which you'll figure out &lt;em&gt;very quickly&lt;/em&gt; through the jumper cables. Putting them on backwards can fry the battery if left there long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T22:55:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22046" CreationDate="2015-10-26T23:05:23.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem using an adapter with your 1/2&amp;quot; torque wrench to be able to work with the size of socket you need. This will in no way affect torque settings or anything of that nature. You will most likely never have an issue with the socket itself, but more likely with the adapter failing first ... if anything were to fail at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do, however, need to be aware that most smaller bolts will have a torque value which will fall below the minimum torque value the wrench can be set to. Many of these will be in the inch-pound range instead of the pound-feet range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2022-11-26T20:25:42.987" LastActivityDate="2022-11-26T20:25:42.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21703" CreationDate="2015-10-26T23:08:40.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All modern motorcycles with steel gas tanks have an internal coating that protects them against oxidation (rust).  There are many brands of sealer available if the stock sealant has been compromised, typically due to heat or old fuel sitting in the tank for an extended period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This google search for 'motorcycle gas tank sealer' yielded these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle%20steel%20gas%20tank&amp;amp;oq=motorcycle%20steel%20gas%20tank&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.10889j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=motorcycle%20gas%20tank%20sealer&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;results&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T23:08:40.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T23:38:12.680" Score="4" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a little digital screen in my dash that re-evaluates my average fuel consumption (L/100km) every thirty seconds. How can I modify this to increase the reporting frequency? Preferably, at least once every second (or more) would be ideal. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holden_Commodore_(VZ)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2005 Holden VZ Commodore SS&lt;/a&gt;. You probably know it as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Lumina&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; Chevrolet Lumina&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Omega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chevrolet Omega&lt;/a&gt;. It might also be known by other names in different parts of the world, i.e. Vauxhall &amp;amp; Opel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It looks like the image attached below.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the glowing green LCD behind the steering wheel, with the odometer readout? Thats also where the fuel consumption displays. You just have to select it with the buttons to the left. Interestingly enough, you can see the Monaro (in the final image) actually has a seperate digital fuel consumption readout on the fuel gauge itself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvXHi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvXHi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VZ SS Exterior&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8pFs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8pFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VZ SS Interior&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vXF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vXF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VZ Berlina Interior&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZaRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vZaRL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VZ Monaro Interior&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastEditorUserId="11808" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T11:34:18.787" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:05:26.373" Title="Fuel Economy Gauge Modification" Tags="|fuel-consumption|electronic-control-module|gauges|computer|electronics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22059" CreationDate="2015-10-27T00:14:14.760" Score="1" ViewCount="3236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know whether a car with a CD player which will play MP3s can play those MP3s if they're in subfolders? Basically, I want to create an MP3 CD of all my Van Halen CDs, but I want to keep them organized. So, I'd have a folder called Van Halen 1, Van Halen 2, Women And Children First, etc... and put all the respective songs into the folders. Will the player be able to find them, or will it only play MP3s in a root folder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12881" LastEditorUserId="12883" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T18:46:13.997" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T10:30:56.147" Title="Will songs in subdirectory play on CD MP3 player in cars?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22056" CreationDate="2015-10-27T03:07:41.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is highly dependent on the head unit's internal software. Unfortunately the equipment installed into various cars can vary wildly, between years and trim levels especially. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest method to determine if your vehicle is capable of playing MP3 files within folders is to simply create a CD with folders and see if it plays. If it doesn't, you know your CD player won't do it. If it plays, you're all set anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T03:07:41.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22056" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:42:54.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many MP3 cd players support this option. The best way to find out is to search your vehicle owner's manual.&#xA;If it is not available, try it! However, be careful if it does not work immediately. There is, principally on older units, conditions on the format and naming scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a 2004 FIAT's manual. You can use these restrictions as they are quite usual for this type of applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PjcX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PjcX.png&quot; alt=&quot;FIAT sound system manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FIAT sound system manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12883" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T07:42:54.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22075" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:44:02.307" Score="2" ViewCount="4360" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I noticed a slight ticking noise when pulling off calmly (from a stop light, for example) at the exact moment the car starts moving. Happens when the engine is still cool, before I hit the highway, don't seem to notice it after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard an actual detonation so it's hard to tell if the sound is that or simply the rubber mounts or something (weather is currently cold and there is creaking in the suspension when driving over speedbumps). I might have some vacuum leaks. Is it possible for the engine to detonate while still cool at a regular slow pull-off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T11:11:04.263" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:11:04.263" Title="What is this ticking noise while pulling away?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18949" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:57:26.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your TPS (Throttle position sensor) checked. It senses the position of your throttle. If you press more than 70%, the system will disengage the AC to save power for the engine as it assumes that you are trying to overtake or climp up a hill. If your TPS is not not sensing the position of your throttle properly, it will definately turn off your AC at normal cruising RPM. My car does that when I am trying to floor the paddle but in normal mood, it keeps cooling even at 120+ km/hr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T07:57:26.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22124" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:59:27.990" Score="2" ViewCount="10543" Body="&lt;p&gt;One could put an argument that this question is about software and not mechanics, however now-days everything is computerized (including cars and their diagnostic tools) so I believe this question belongs here as this is where one intuitively look for such an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-V1-5-ELM327-OBD2-OBD-II-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-ST-UK-Stock-UK/181734879451?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&amp;amp;_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D43d9af17ad4d4e03ae12ed3c19c9783c%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D141683045885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bought this cable (ELM327 OBD2)&lt;/a&gt; but was unable to use it with Windows 10. Windows would detect the cable (USB to COM), but driver under system would have triangle with exclamation mark which indicates that there is something wrong with driver. When trying to update driver windows would give message that this is the latest driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using 4 different diagnostic programs and all of them would fail with messages similar to &lt;code&gt;Unable to establish connection to COM port&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;nothing is plugged in&lt;/code&gt;, which in my opinion indicate that cable (or driver) is incompatible with Windows 10. (Cable was connected to the car and car had ignition on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is not about how to make my cable work with Windows 10 but rather &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know of OBD2 to USB cable that has drivers and works with Windows 10?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T07:39:06.730" Title="OBD2 to USB Cable for Windows 10" Tags="|obd-ii|computer|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22031" CreationDate="2015-10-27T08:12:02.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Asmyldof answer, I would like to Highlight another point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnetic braking (motor regenerative/passive braking on an electric car) torque are dependent of the speed. This means that &lt;strong&gt;theoretically&lt;/strong&gt;, this type of brake can never stop a vehicle because as the speed decrease, the maximum braking torque also decrease. This is a bit like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeno&amp;#39;s_paradoxes#Achilles_and_the_tortoise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zeno's paradoxes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a plot of the speed vs. torque for friction(red), magnetic(green) and aero(blue, like parachute):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bag7H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bag7H.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed vs. torque&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a plot of the time needed to stop (time vs speed). Note that the green and blue (magnetic and aero) never touch abscissa.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5ZTg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5ZTg.png&quot; alt=&quot;time vs speed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ilustrations based on &quot;Eléments de théorie des mécanismes et des machines, G.Spinnler, 1984&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12883" LastEditorUserId="12883" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T16:00:01.820" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T16:00:01.820" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22044" CreationDate="2015-10-27T10:46:22.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of symptom is normally a result of an EVAP purge solenoid that is stuck open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most if not all Honda vehicles are equipped with on board vapor recovery. This system collects the fumes that are inside the gas tank while filling the tank. The fumes are passed into the EVAP charcoal canister to store them. When the car is running the EVAP purge solenoid pulls air through the canister and into the engine to be burned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the purge solenoid is stuck open it can allow the fumes from the tank to enter the engine while the engine is off. The fumes will flood the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T23:59:10.563" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:59:10.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21982" CreationDate="2015-10-27T11:16:17.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the needle in the carby isnt resting in the seat properly due to debris in the fuel line, this will hold it open and allow fuel to flow freely, happened with my dirtbike sometimes you can just flush the debris out other times the seal in the seat has gone and needs replacing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12892" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T11:16:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T12:41:58.073" Score="2" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citröen C3 and the electronic button won't open the car door unless I open with the key and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; press the button, at which point it unlocks all of the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no problem locking the car with the other button so it's not the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12895" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T17:57:47.770" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T17:57:47.770" Title="Electronic key won't open car unless I open with key first" Tags="|key|locks|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2015-10-27T12:44:14.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer is yes yes yes to damage.  Some guys borrowed my car to jump-start another yesterday.  They mixed up the pos/neg connection and my car died a sudden death. I have just phoned my mechanic who said it will have damaged any number of things/fuses/electric systems.  I am currently waiting for the AA to come and jump-start the car so I can drive it to the mechanic.  I am not at all looking forward to the bill and really annoyed @ the guys. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12896" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T12:44:14.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22070" CreationDate="2015-10-27T13:34:48.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The central locking (open) motor on the driver's door may be faulty or a wire is broken connecting to the motor.  The ECU is probably trying to unlock the door when you press the button, but failing.  Once you have unlocked the drivers door manually, the ECU is then able to unlock the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a button inside the car that can lock and unlock the doors?  If you do, see if you can lock then unlock the driver's door from inside, if you can't unlock it from inside, this would back up my thought about the motor being faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the lights usually flash when you press the button?  If they still flash when you try to unlock the drivers door, then this would back up that the communications between the remote and the ECU are fine, and you have a problem with the motor in the driver's door central locking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T13:34:48.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21991" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:12:49.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keycode on my Kawasaki Ninja is on the original keychain... its kindof like a mini-dogtag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T14:12:49.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21359" CreationDate="2015-10-27T14:14:16.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have exactly the opposite problem. My battery has good charge and shows good charge when at idle. When I turn the ignition key to on and the bike still not started the headlight comes on gradually, and only dimly at that. When I kick start the bike the headlight is bright, the neutral light is bright, the turn signals are bright. This is a 1986 Yamaha SRX600 and has only kick start, no electric start. I do notice that when I engage the turn signals that the headlight and neutral light flicker when the turn signal engages. This is leading me to believe I need to replace the turn signal canceler (yes, this old crappy bike has THAT! LOL). Another thing leading me to this conclusion is the fact that when I start the bike the turn signal is on - even though I KNOW I did not have it on when I shut down the bike! Also, I revved the bike to about 5000rpm and the turn signal turned OFF! This was at a stand still and should not have cancelled the signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your problem, have you checked your fuses for current draw? There is a YouTube video about that. Albeit he's testing a car, this method works to tell you where to check on your bike when you get a reading from a fuse that should basically be at zero when the bike is off and key out of ignition. This is known as parasitic amperage draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12898" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T18:48:13.383" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T18:48:13.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22060" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:06:45.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to say it's NOT detonation, but given the symptoms it sounds more like you have a mechanical issue. Ticking, COULD be a lifter, it could be a rod bearing, an alternator pulley.... I think you get the point. The best thing you can do is determine if the noise occurs under load or not. Rev the engine while observing the engine bay, if you have an electronic throttle, have someone do it for you while listening for noises. You need to determine if it's coming from the top or bottom of the engine, this can be achieved with an automotive stethoscope (A screw driver works too). What is the year make and model of the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have an issue with detonation, but theres also 100 other things that can make noise while accelerating. It's also important to know what type of car it is and the age, as detonation is a premature or combined &quot;Detonation&quot; of combustion components. It's also referred to as &quot;Spark Knock&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:06:45.527" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13239" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:14:55.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason this occurs is to take care of the humidity in the vehicle while your defroster is running. MANY older vehicles have this as a common function when your defroster comes on. It's odd though that the temperature setting doesn't change your AC temp. Chevy's 2011's were all CAN BUS computer controlled systems, it might just be a glitchy computer issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:14:55.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:16:39.880" Score="7" ViewCount="28540" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to changing brake rotors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see in many youtube videos, it could be a bit of a challenge to remove old brake rotors. They can stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to add some anti-seize compound to the back of rotors during the installation, so it will be easy to remove them later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MozuW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MozuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T02:08:19.167" Title="Should I apply anti-seize to the back of brake rotors?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22078" CreationDate="2015-10-27T15:39:15.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced that anti-seize compound is the way to go here. There's no harm in applying a little, but I wonder if it is the right compound for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-seize compound is usually to prevent hot metal parts from fusing together due to heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, brake discs will typically get stuck due to rust, so the proper remedy would be to minimize or prevent the surface of the rotor from exposure to water or moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this effect, I'd imagine it is more effective to apply a coat of high-temp paint to the mating surface of the rotor prior to installation than to apply anti-seize compound, since (I expect) moisture can still make its way in past the anti-seize compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:39:15.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:36:12.830" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive my new car for 5km ar 60km/h with hsnd brack up and i feel little smell when stop on near to rear wheel. Now i will remove foot from brack when start driving there is a noise. Need sugestion and precautionary measures &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:47:34.227" Title="Hand brake up and you drive new car" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-29T19:53:36.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2015-10-27T18:44:37.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem with my Honda accord 96 for an entire year and just figured out what was causing the vibration in idle mode. Changed mounts, cleaned air idle control valve and throttle body . Took it to a friend who in no time told me it was a BAD COIL not producing enough power. So check out your COILS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12904" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T18:44:37.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22081" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:11:28.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For precaution : always check the dashboard lights after ignition! If the ' ! ' light is on , it means the handbrake is also on too. After releasing the handbrake the light switches off .If you see the light on when the handbrake is released , then it means you have worned out your brakes .&#xA;Hand brake lever usually activates the rear brakes . Probable source of damage is at the rear .The brake shoes may have knocked off from their position and causing the noise .&#xA;Park your car at a incline and turn on only the handbrake (no gear or foot brake) keep the ignition on . If the car slips then definitely your rear brake shoes/ disk /drum / hub has been heavily damaged. Also if your car is a rear wheel drive, have the rear differential and prop shaft checked .&#xA;You are better off to a dealer as there is a chance you can slip some of the damages under warranty .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T20:47:34.227" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:47:34.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21325" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:25:48.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faulty diodes in the system could cause such ap problem , but there is ap small problem we always miss out , and that is the starter motor relay. Some times the relay fails to switch off after ignition and stays connected , the starter motor gets really hot just within 30 seconds . This heat eventually damages the whole electrical system ! Since the old starter motor also failed , i suggest you are better off replacing the relay ! Its very  cheap ! Dont bother testing your old relay !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T19:25:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21995" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:34:35.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a chance that the pinion of the power steering assistance motor has worn off . It is enclosed in a complete assembly which is located just behind the dash board ! &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLRa2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;power steering mechanism &quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T19:34:35.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21962" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:47:53.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily check the seals on the terminals . Some times many companies add a transparent layer on them which can be easily overlooked . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fuse box in the engine bay, The primary fuse also can be blown  . Its should be 60A above. The fuse can also be situated on the positive battery terminal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T20:00:22.667" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:00:22.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:57:37.537" Score="3" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new starter in my 2007 Tacoma about a month ago. In about 10% of starts, the starter continues to be driving the flywheel for about 5-10 sec even after the engine has started, which is evident by continuing the standard starter noise running in parallel to the regular engine sound. After that, it stops 'starting' and the engine runs as usual. Othee 90% of the time, this doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for this behavior and does it require attention? Why does it happen only sometimes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T02:02:37.877" Title="New starter overstarting" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22089" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:04:53.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is the starter motor relay. When they get old they have a tendency to 'stick'.The symptoms matches your problem. Changing the relay wil sort you out. Dont bother testing the old one ! They are inexpensive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T20:48:50.540" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:48:50.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22055" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:35:12.150" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not possible . &#xA;Firstly lets see how the system works :&#xA;1. The speed/distance sensor measures the distance you have travelled in 30 seconds .&#xA;2. The ecu calculates the amount of fuel that has been sprayed into each cylinder during that 30 second period. &#xA;3. Simple math distance ÷fuel consumed = mileage &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was timed to one second the percentage error in the calculation would be greater . In typical city speeds if you are doing 50 kmph in a second you would have travelled approx 14 meters  i.e 0.014km and fuel consumed would be approx 9 to 14 ml i.e 0.009L/0.014 L. So percentage error would be huge . 3 places behind decimal will give you a very large error. Can be upto 50 %&#xA;Spreading it out over 30 seconds eliminates majority if the error ! And for mileage calculation you need an average calculation .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you think about it carefully , if you were to make a mileage meter that can give a reading every second , it would be very similar to a reverse working tachometer. Higher the needle goes lower the mileage you get .   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T20:50:22.713" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:50:22.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22089" CreationDate="2015-10-27T20:35:54.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starters quite commonly need to have &quot;shims&quot; added when they are installed.  These thin pieces of metal act as spacers to make sure the gear on the starter lines up exactly with the teeth of the flywheel.  If the starter is out of position even slightly, it can cause the starter to get &quot;stuck&quot; and remain engaged until the gear finally slides back into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be other causes, but since it's happening right after a new starter install, this should be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T20:35:54.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22036" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:08:00.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the Rav4 has an undersized battery to begin with and is sensitive to under-voltage problems when starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rav's prior to 2009 have an undersized battery -35. Check the&#xA;  battery and if weak get a &lt;strong&gt;24F&lt;/strong&gt; for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one user mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just ran my tests on our RAV. Interesting!  It has a Toyota battery.&#xA;  The size wasn't readily discernible but it fills the battery box.&#xA;  Since I bought the car used I don't know if it's the original or not. &#xA;  Anyway, with the car not having been run since noon yesterday and&#xA;  overnight temperature at 50F, my analog load tester meter read right&#xA;  on 12V at 9:30 AM today. While cranking &lt;strong&gt;it dropped to 9.5 volts&lt;/strong&gt;. The&#xA;  engine cranked over 5-6 times and took less than two seconds to start&#xA;  at which point it jumped to 14V indicating normal charging. After a&#xA;  few more starts trying to &quot;use up&quot; some voltage I got it just below 9V&#xA;  but it was hard to read the drop because the engine started so&#xA;  quickly. Finally I held the load test on it until the &quot;toaster&quot; glowed&#xA;  red - about 15 seconds. The tester gauge went to 11V and into the&#xA;  &quot;weak&quot; region. The next start got the voltage down to 8V. Again it&#xA;  started instantly and sounded like it cranked normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Conclusion: It's very possible that a weak battery would still crank&#xA;  the engine over fast enough to sound okay while the voltage is&#xA;  dropping low enough (which I didn't reach) to shut down the&#xA;  electronics. That says changing the battery may be the fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/82440-2007-rav4-v6-hard-start-when-cold.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/82440-2007-rav4-v6-hard-start-when-cold.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10719" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:08:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22098" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:08:42.137" Score="3" ViewCount="122693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was discussing the behavior a car's check-engine light. &lt;strong&gt;When a check-engine light comes on, can the check-engine light turn off on it's own or does the check-engine light always require manually clearing to turn off?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you provide a canonical example(s) of when the check-engine turns off on it's own and another example where the light stays on until manually clearning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T16:29:57.050" Title="Does the checkengine light clear itself on it's own or require manual clearning?" Tags="|troubleshooting|cel|dtc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22095" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:15:17.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the condition that caused it to come on is a minor fault, and stops occurring, then yes, it will clear itself.  If the condition indicates a larger problem, then it will stay on until cleared manually.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example of a condition that will clear itself, is low brake fluid.  I experienced this myself when I would only have the light come on when stopping hard over time, which triggered the sensor.  After the force of stopping subsided, the sensor state returned to normal, and the code / light was cleared.  Also, timing issues will usually clear themselves if they do not persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12910" LastEditorUserId="12910" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T22:20:56.243" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:20:56.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:17:48.683" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my car's check-engine light came on, I used a car OBDII port code reader to get the diagnostic-trouble-code (DTC) and then I googled what the DTC meant. I noticed that lots of the websites and searches are specific to a make (i.e. Mazda, Honda, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do car manufacturers provide specific make/model/year information for each diagnostic-trouble-code? Or is it only for make/model? or maybe only specific for the car make (i.e. Mazda, Honda, etc)?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If yes, where is this information officially published by the car manufacturer (is it on the car manufacturer's website or only available to dealers via some non-disclosure-agreement/agreement/special-access)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to find good information about the diagnostic trouble codes when you get one on your car. So if there is some &quot;official&quot; documentation I can look up for my make/model/year then I want to find that... instead of some random website that has unverified/unknown-quality information/advice about something important (what is wrong with my car and how to fix the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T23:41:09.743" Title="Do car manufacturers provide specific make/model/year information for each diagnostic-trouble-code?" Tags="|troubleshooting|obd-ii|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22095" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:22:34.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light can clear itself. For instance if you leave the gas cap off when refueling, the light will come on and a code will be entered into the computer memory. Once the cap is put back on and a drive cycle occurs where the computer can detect that everything is good, the light will go off. The &lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt; will go off, but the code will remain in the computer until cleared (for whatever reason, such as lack of power or being manually cleared by a handheld device).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if the issue is something which needs a mechanic's touch, the light will not go off. Mechanical beasts don't cure themselves. Anytime something gets beyond the thresholds set inside the computer, the light goes on. This can be anything from a bad heating element of an O2 sensor to a bad circuit or lack of continuity in a MAP sensor. Each throws a very distinct code which will not shut itself off until the issue is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:22:34.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22120" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:23:42.067" Score="56" ViewCount="202467" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inside of my windshield has a thin layer of grime. When the light hits it a certain way, it drastically reduces my visibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used glass cleaner with clean microfiber car cloths and paper towels, but it doesn't seem to clean the windows, just smear the grime around. The grime has survived multiple such cleanings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I effectively remove the grime from interior side of my windshield in order to restore visibility? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11271" LastEditorDisplayName="user11271" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T00:19:21.960" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T05:44:20.077" Title="Effective way to clean inside of windshield?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="22" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21489" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:31:25.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this issue when people put too many keys/items on the same ring as their car keys. The extra weight of these items swings back and forth when you drive, wearing out the ignition lock and key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your ignition lock was not replaced at the same time as the switch this is the culprit (they are separate parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T23:31:25.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22097" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:41:09.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some parts of the OBD-II code are the same for every vehicle (year/make/model independent), while others can be specific to a make and/or model. The year is usually irrelevant, though there has been some amount of change since OBD-II standards have been implemented. The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/obd2-codes-explained.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-Codes.com&lt;/a&gt; explains the breakdown fairly well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first character identifies identifies the system related to the trouble code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;P = Powertrain &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;B = Body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;C = Chassis &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;U = Undefined&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second digit identifies whether the code is a generic code (same on all OBD-II equpped vehicles), or a manufacturer specific code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0 = Generic (this is the digit zero -- not the letter &quot;O&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 = Enhanced (manufacturer specific)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The third digit denotes the type of sub-system that pertains to the code &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 = Emission Management (Fuel or Air) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 = Injector Circuit (Fuel or Air) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 = Ignition or Misfire &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 = Emission Control &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;5 = Vehicle Speed &amp;amp; Idle Control &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;6 = Computer &amp;amp; Output Circuit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;7 = Transmission &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8 = Transmission &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;9 = SAE Reserved &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;0 = SAE Reserved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fourth and fifth digits, are variable, and relate to a particular problem. For instance, P0171 code means &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)&lt;/a&gt;. To lookup your particular code, visit our &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD Trouble Codes section&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found OBD-Codes.com and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engine-codes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine-codes.com&lt;/a&gt; to both have a lot of good information on them. Not every code will be listed, but you can usually find the codes by doing a google search using the code itself (ie: P0171) and the words &quot;OBD-II code&quot; or something very similar. I'm sure that some of the manufacturers would sell you a subscription to get the information, but you'll find with the right Google-Fu you can find the information you are looking for ... or you can always come here and get an answer :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T23:41:09.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:34:11.750" Score="7" ViewCount="4899" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Diesel engine has been rebuilt and it didn't use any oil till the HPOP went out. I replaced the oil pump and then I noticed my turbo when going up a hill and the Turbo would sound like a sneeze or Cha-Choo sound and when you got to the top of the hill it would make the new strange noise. Then later I was driving the truck and the engine just shut down. I pulled over and checked the oil and it used 1 and 1/2 gallons of oil. I had oil with me and filled it back to the full mark and filled the resvoir up on the HPOP and it started back up. The engine runs great. There is no smoke and no oil in the coolant. The Turbo has 279,000 miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the seals on the Turbo be leaking oil and then burning it in my engine? The compression is great and this is the only item that hasn't been replaced on the truck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12911" LastEditorUserId="13529" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T04:17:16.220" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T04:17:16.220" Title="2002 Ford F350 Superduty 7.3L Turbo diesel using a quart of oil every 43 miles" Tags="|engine|ford|oil|diesel|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22089" CreationDate="2015-10-28T01:58:42.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starter Relays are often sold with the starter itself too.  If this is a new starter, I would complain to the company that sold it to you as this should not be happening!  Additionally, spinning the starter like that is not good for the starter, your fly wheel, or the engine itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not trying to make it sound like this is a major problem, but you shouldn't be happy about it!  Yes, the relay is no more than 30 or 40 bucks, but if the starter came with a knew defunct one...I don't see a real reason you should have to buy another!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also not the easiest to change as they often involve removing the starter which involves you either getting under the car or lifting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12912" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T01:58:42.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22089" CreationDate="2015-10-28T02:02:37.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry, not the relay, the solenoid..  The relay is not the issue, the solenoid is the issue.  Look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/83/Automobile_starter.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt; .  The smaller cylinder in the picture is the solenoid and it actuates the starter gear, shoving it forward (to the right of the picture) to engage with the flywheel and spin the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12913" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T02:02:37.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21982" CreationDate="2015-10-28T02:40:41.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check the fuel lines for splits or leaks.&#xA;In a fuel injected bike I wouldn't expect fuel to make it past the pump unless the ignition is on, and line &lt;em&gt;attempting&lt;/em&gt; to pressurize&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of cause, this is a disaster waiting to happen with fuel spilling over the exhaust headers. &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT RUN THE BIKE&lt;/strong&gt; it's far too likely to catch fire, should it actually run at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T02:40:41.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T04:19:47.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to pull off hard-to-remove contaminants with a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=clay+bar&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aclay+bar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clay bar&lt;/a&gt; and lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clay bar is very good at removing surface contamination. Step-by-step instructions are shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/aVUtdlzrktI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lubricate the windshield with clay lubricant (soapy water should work just as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knead the clay into a flat roughly palm-sized square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply some lubricant on the clay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub the clay against the contaminated glass using back and forth motions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold the clay bar in to expose new clay once the existing surface has picked up a fair amount of contaminants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T12:46:34.593" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T12:46:34.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T05:55:28.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray or with a help of a towel apply talcum powder all over the windshield. (Just light dusting ) Let it is stay for a minute. The talcum powder always sticks on grime , it will fall off from clean spaces. Now wipe off thoroughly with a towel. You may need to repeat this a couple of times . Vaccume  the inside when you are finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T05:55:28.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22103" CreationDate="2015-10-28T06:03:51.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start your engine and observe the smoke coming out from the tail pipe. Step on the accelerator if needed . If the smoke is cloudy or blue-ish ,it means the engine is burning off the the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T06:03:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22103" CreationDate="2015-10-28T06:37:05.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're not leaking oil. To me, having that much oil &quot;missing&quot; indicates a problem - it's highly unlikely that the turbo eats up all that oil, although, it might also contribute to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have this car sit for 24 hours on a clean surface, in order to check for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and by the way, turbos can also be rebuilt. But, first thing is first - check for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a leak, it's pretty hard to tell upfront what could be the cause. It can be a simple crack or it can be a hose that wasn't connected properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T06:37:05.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T06:48:57.617" Score="2" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to see the Oil Life percentage of a Honda Civic Hybrid 2010 (UK model) in the display although I followed correct instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw following instructions to see oil life of a Honda Civic 8th gen model,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the engine oil life is not displayed press the SEL/RESET knob in the instrument panel repeatedly until it is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also I've seen many YouTube videos that doing the above steps and successfully gets the Oil Life percentage in the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whenever I press SEL/RESET it loops between  Trip A, Trip B, Outside temperature and Total Mileage. Other than these 4 options I don't see anything else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12343" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T06:48:57.617" Title="Honda Civic Hybrid 2010 oil life indicator" Tags="|honda|civic|hybrid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2078" CreationDate="2015-10-28T06:52:09.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine does not crank / does not start, always check battery and battery connectors first &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine cranks but does not start, check fuse 31 and 35. Make sure the fuel pump is actually working. This can be easily done by open up your gas/fuel cap, putting your ear close and listen while having someone turn the key on (without starting the engine). You can easily hear a hissing sound / humming sound. If you can't hear anything, you might need to have your fuel pump checked. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's very cold, the glowplugs might also cause a problem. This is quite unlikely, but worth a check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T06:52:09.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T07:26:31.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean cloth and a bowl of lukewarm  water with a solid dose of dishwashing liquid.&#xA;That did the trick for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T07:26:31.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22115" CreationDate="2015-10-28T07:54:44.890" Score="2" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a NA 1.3 petrol engine and wanna load a turbo. I am looking at second hand parts at online stores and wondering if it is a problem to use a turbo from diesel engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make any difference on using diesel turbo or petrol turbo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T19:25:35.190" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T19:25:35.190" Title="Naturally Aspirated to Turbocharged" Tags="|hyundai|turbocharger|accent|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22114" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:40:52.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A turbo whether petrol or diesel is basically an exhaust driven rotor which forces air into the engine. It won't be a problem to install a diesel turbo in a petrol engine. But there are problems!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine has to be tuned properly ( there is a great difference in air pressure which the engine does no know )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings on the turbo have to be lubricated. It is usually done by injecting oil from the engines sump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to be very careful while picking out a turbo. Each one pushes air in a different pressure. Make sure you don't purchase an oversized turbo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure to check the oil seals, if they are faulty they will inject oil into your engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cooling system has to be improved since the engine will generate more heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T22:11:49.867" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T22:11:49.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21489" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:50:48.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be the immobilizer. If the immobilizer transponder  or transponder chip in the key has started to fail, it creates such problems. Try starting with the spare key , if it is in mint condition.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QOFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the working of an immobilizer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item no 9 is the immobilizer transponder ! And immobilizer chip is in your key &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POtAs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ignition barrel exploded veiw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T09:09:33.397" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T09:09:33.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T09:26:43.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some wet wipers in the supermarket specially for this. They smell of methylated spirits, so that's probably what they use. Anyway they work really well. I think the film on the glass comes from the heaters, so it's all kinds of oil and plastic molecules the hot air picks up in the ducts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in a plastic cylinder with a slit in the top, so when you pull one out the next follows. Very handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12915" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T09:26:43.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22056" CreationDate="2015-10-28T10:30:56.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually depends from unit to unit. But from my experience what i have observed is that majourity aftermarket cd players supports music from subfolders. Same case for flash drives. Here us a picture of my cd player manual, showing in which order music will be played from subfolders.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nCdT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sony cd player manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T10:30:56.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22114" CreationDate="2015-10-28T11:20:24.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all before you start to turbo a 1.3 engine keep these things in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you say your car is a 1.3 then I am almost certain its a family &quot;commuter&quot; car which was designed not to go like stink in the first place so there is pretty much a chance you cant fit some parts like the inter-cooler since the manufacturer wants to keep cost low while designing the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep in mind that you cannot have a massive turbo on your 1.3 engine , the gearbox and the bearings wont be able to handle the power so obviously you will have to be limited to a smaller single turbo setup with 10 to 12 Psi which will increase the power roughly 80% which on paper is quite a lot but realistically unless you are on max boost the power increase would be around 15% to 20% and I dont suppose its worthwhile spending so much on a turbo and parts just for the small amount of increase in power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have the budget,Skill and time to do it, its better to plan ahead instead of having a unfinished project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be precisely clear on what you have to do it before hand, you cannot improvise on the go (basically you can but it will require massive rework which will waste a lot of time and money) A safer tip is to first ask a engineer or mechanic for the hypothetical placements of parts(see below for the list of parts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Importantly be sure to have headroom if something doesn't go as planned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok now that's taken care of so here are the list of things you would need to plan for in case you anyways decide to do the build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Turbo, Yes you can use a diesel turbo on your petrol car it does not make any difference at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;custom intake and exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inter-cooler and proper plumbing.(oil cooling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waste-gate and blow off valve, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of all a proper ECU tuning, a perfectly tuned ECU can extract the last bit of performance from the turbo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case you are going for a crazy build with massive turbos or twin turbo setup you will need to mod your suspension too and brakes for saftey, just assuming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T11:52:40.087" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T11:52:40.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T11:46:31.420" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean the inside with washing-up liquid (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairy_(brand)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fairy&lt;/a&gt; in the UK - a mild liquid used for handwashing plates, cutlery etc.), then Windolene (a glass cleaning product), and then finish up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rainx.co.uk/rain-x-products/rain-x-anti-fog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rain-X Anti-fog&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives me a pristine surface that resists fogging, especially in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="22802" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T15:12:16.453" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T15:12:16.453" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22159" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:12:11.187" Score="10" ViewCount="6571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering why two car running at 100 km/h for example with a 100 hp consume less fuel that an engine of 300hp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I take a supercar lighter and more aerodynamics it will consume more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But physicaly it require the same energy to drive constantly at 100 km/h, so does a more powerfull engine is less efficient ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12916" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T11:59:11.257" Title="Fuel consumption at same speed of different engine" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:42:53.387" Score="6" ViewCount="22115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found out you can buy a repair manual for your specific car (in this case Haynes and the repair manual is specific your make/model but spans multiple years). When I went to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1563929155&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my car's Haynes repair manual&lt;/a&gt; I then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/RYEDJUSBT5MNO/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=1563929155&amp;amp;channel=detail-glance&amp;amp;nodeID=283155&amp;amp;store=books&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;read one of the reviews&lt;/a&gt; and found out that each specific car has an &quot;OEM service manual&quot;. For various reasons, I would like purchase one of these &quot;OEM service manuals&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to buy direct from manufacturer or if that isn't possible then a well-known/reputable 2nd-party website (I want to avoid Ebay because of the large hassle (sniping, is the item legit?, etc etc)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a consumer, can you buy the &quot;OEM service manual&quot; for your car direct from the manufacturer? If yes, would you please give a canonical example of where to buy one of these &quot;OEM service manuals&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the &quot;OEM service manuals&quot; usually one book or multiple books for each make/model/year car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know for a fact that all/some manufacturers don't sell the official service manual to consumers that is an acceptable answer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastEditorUserId="11948" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T17:01:11.710" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T08:58:47.110" Title="As a consumer, can you buy the &quot;OEM service manual&quot; for your car direct from the manufacturer?" Tags="|troubleshooting|repair|service|diy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2015-10-28T13:54:31.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 100hp engine from 1900(year) would probably use a lot more fuel than a modern 300hp engine, so a lot depends on the design of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing modern engines however, you are comparing two engines that are designed for different things.  It is like asking why a shire (large) horse needs to eat more than a small pony when they are only carrying 1 small child each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T13:59:38.190" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T13:59:38.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22062" CreationDate="2015-10-28T14:07:15.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why use a the Canbus to USB adaptor (not a cable!) ?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The elm327 comes in at least three flavours:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One with an USB connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One with an bluetooth connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One with an Wifi connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ordered the third because it uses ancient but widespread IP v4 to set up a connection, making it usuable with almost any computer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(Almost since it might be challenging on iphones and similar unless jail broken).&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternatives both require special drivers and I am not convinced that those will be updated, neither in time (e.g. not yet available for your current OS) or not at all (e.g. when you want to use it over a decade with then current equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having written all that, lets actually try to solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The obvious way: If you do not have the drivers for windows 10 then do not use windows 10. Use a different OS. (Hint: Always wait a few months before upgrading to the newest of the newest).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing that: Set up a VM on your laptop and pass though the USB connection. This is trivial with software sunch as VMwave workstation (free 30 day trial). There are also plenty of other free hypervisors on the market which do that. Just mentioning WMware workstation because that is what I used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these work, though the second might be a lot of work unless you are familiar with setting up the hypervisor and installing an OS. In addition to that you would need a CoA to run the second (older) copy of windows in a VM. Which makes it only interesting if you want to use one laptop for everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T07:39:06.730" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T07:39:06.730" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22127" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:04:50.710" Score="2" ViewCount="5604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does a distributor cap that is improperly sealed, due to being either loose or cracked, cause problems such as erratic idle or not starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a loose cap cause problems with an optical rotor with slits style camshaft position sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T15:42:36.683" Title="Why Does a Cracked or Loose Distributor Cap Cause Problems?" Tags="|ignition|cam-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:32:23.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's available everywhere, but I found a glass polish from Nigrin, which works quite well inside and outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quess it contains some soft abrasives which don't scratch the glass, but it's very effective and easily removes even this tiny drops you get when parking under a tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just apply it pure, rub it on the glass with a dry towel, an wash it away with a wet towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T15:32:23.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22125" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:42:36.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A crack can form a track that moisture can collect in.  This track of moisture can then create a path for the HT current to short down to the engine ground, in so doing, bypassing the required destination of a spark plug.  When a distributor has had a fault like this for a while you can visibly see a carbon build up following the path that the HT current has taken.  These tracks can form even when a crack is not visible, maybe moisture got inside the cap and condensed on the inside wall of the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T15:42:36.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:50:14.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert on the topic but i will try to answer in a laymans term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well first off all horse power is the amount of power produced by the car when fuel is burnt. There are many ways to increase the horse power. By increasing the amount of air flowing into the vehicle or by increasing the amount of fuel it is burning. Ok now lets us try to increase the horse power of our cars and lets see what effects it has. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lets start cranking up horsepower of our car from 100 hp:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to increase the horsepower we may just get a better air flow system. Engine produce power by burning up fuel, the better they burn , more the power is generated. For fuel to burn better we need more oxygen, were do we get that, obviously increasing amount of air flowing in the engine(not too much though, we don't want a air heater).&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-Can-I-Add-Horsepower-to-My-Car-/10000000177634889/g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This blog&lt;/a&gt; explains various ways to do it. Using those methods you can increase up-to 50 horsepower. Now one thing here to notice that even you have now increased horsepower, it will also result in performance and a better fuel efficiency of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we increased our cars power from 100 to 150 and that also with much better performance and fuel efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ok now lets try to increase it up-to 300&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now going on with better air flow will now not help us much so what we do.&#xA;Remember last point &lt;strong&gt;engine generate power by burning fuel&lt;/strong&gt;. So now to increase the power we have to increase the amount of fuel going in the engine. More means bigger blast, means more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so why does it gives less mileage  than the 100 hp one. Well cars with 300 hp(those are too many horses there, look out while driving) are generally designed to go at a higher speed. Generally these cars give better mileage at higher speed as compared at a lower speed, cause the have more fuel running in the piston compared that to 100hp car  most of the fuel is not utilized correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is same like driving your 100 hp car in 2end gear, well you are capping the full potential of you vehicle no matter how aerodynamic it is, it's going to consume more fuel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T15:50:14.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T15:55:40.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mix some warm water with a splash of vinegar and wipe the window using a cloth.  Dry and polish the glass with old newspaper, the old style coarse paper works best.  Colour printing seems to require less absorbent, smoother paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this highly effective and almost free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12917" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T15:55:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T16:36:20.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the suggestions made so far are very good. There are different ways to cut the grease off the windshield. The issue I always found with either ammonia or alcohol based cleaners is that they evaporate very quickly and leave a film and part of the grease behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have found to work well was to &lt;strong&gt;use &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of alcohol based cleaner&lt;/strong&gt;  (not ammonia, as stated in the comments) to loosen off the grease and grime from the windshield. This will prevent the product from evaporating quickly and leaving a hard to remove film. Use the paper towel to &lt;strong&gt;scrub it well&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't worry about it being very wet when done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, &lt;strong&gt;use a fresh paper towel to dry up&lt;/strong&gt; the excess cleaning product. This will get most of the cleaning product, together with the grime, off your windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the extra step that seems to make the difference for me: &lt;strong&gt;use some clean &lt;em&gt;water&lt;/em&gt; on a new paper towel&lt;/strong&gt; (make it wet, or the windshield if you have an extra sprayer). Again, use a lot on the paper towel to leave behind some water on the windshield. After scrubbing and diluting the cleaning product, &lt;strong&gt;use some dry paper towel again to dry the windshield&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method may take a bit more time, and may take more paper towel than what you used to use, but I have found it do the best cleaning job. It's the water that seems to remove the film in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12919" LastEditorUserId="12919" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T23:40:06.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T23:40:06.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22122" CreationDate="2015-10-28T17:56:38.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is specific to the make of your vehicle. For instance, you can purchase many tools and service manuals from manufacturers such as Chrysler and Hyundai/Kia, BUT you may not be so lucky when it comes different dealers such as Toyota or many GM vehicles. If you provided your specific make and model, I would better be able to answer this question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the person above said, that you have to be of certain &quot;Criteria&quot; to obtain one of these is true; However it isn't ALWAYS true as I said. With the internet being what it is today as well, online versions of these are sometimes readily available. The legality of obtaining one can be questioned though. &#xA;From my experience obtaining these from Ebay has not been a reliable experience. However, though there are quite a few websites that sell them. I have ordered from certified OEM websites and have close to 100 manuals in my shop, all have been legitimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T17:56:38.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12207" CreationDate="2015-10-28T19:40:47.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same car, I bought it new, I've had to replace the fuss/relay panel on the passenger side under the glove box twice... The internal hard wiring of the panel melts and burns at the power source for the fuel pump fuse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12925" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T19:40:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2015-10-28T20:46:20.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bumper is made out of plastic, i advise not to paint over it. Painting over the scratch will just highlight the scratch. Paint applied on spray painted surfaces dont add up to an even layer and it looks ugly ! You can try buffing off the scratch with some cutting compound and water. If the scratch has only affected the top clear coat, you can remove it by spraying with loads of water and sanding with 2200 grit emery  paper . (Always spray loads of water while sanding or buffing , if you dont the paint gets hot and the surface gets destroyed )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T20:46:20.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22122" CreationDate="2015-10-28T20:58:06.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that you can purchase one from the manufacturer, but you can purchase them from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helminc.com&lt;/a&gt; without issue for many brands (but mostly American). I purchased two different ones from here, one each for 93 &amp;amp; 94 Camaro (also covers Firebird/Trans Ams). These are the exact ones used by dealership service mechanics. Some are hard copy, while I believe newer ones come on CDROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the year of the vehicle, but yes, one &quot;set&quot; (if more than one) usually covers a single year. There is much in the way of crossover, though, where one year's service manual will cover quite a bit of another year which is in the same basic model (ie: not much difference between a 94 &amp;amp; 95 Camaro, so the manual for one would probably cover the other also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T20:58:06.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:10:42.160" Score="2" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first house. It doesn't have a garage, only a driveway. I live in Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cars are a 2014 sedan and a 2015 suv. I use them everyday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I NEED a block heater for January-February?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:58:40.353" Title="Do I NEED block heaters for winter?" Tags="|winter|block-heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:22:23.353" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crumpled newspaper is my go-to for making glass look flawless. It removes streaks that many towels will leave behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T21:22:23.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22138" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:43:39.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the how cold it gets where you live in Canada, but usually it would be a sane idea to have one. I lived in the north-west corner of Montana growing up. It would normally reach below freezing, but above 0°F (-17°C) most of the winter nights. Only when the forecast was to be below this would we &quot;plug our cars in&quot; for the night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your anti-freeze is in good shape, your vehicle can handle being this cold without issue. 50% antifreeze (mixed with 50% distilled water) is good down to about -34°F (-37°C), while 70% antifreeze (mixed with 30% distilled water) is good down to about -82°F (-63°C) (NOTE: These numbers &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; depend on what &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of antifreeze is being used ... these are basic numbers for the &quot;green stuff&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using this amount of antifreeze, the real issue is not whether your block will crack due to hydraulic expansion, but rather that your engine oil will not flow very fast, so you have oil starvation on key components of your engine. This will cause large amounts of wear until the oil starts to flow properly. Using a block heater in these situations is imperative so that the oil will flow properly from startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T21:43:39.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:24:05.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be your technique which needs work. Using two &lt;em&gt;CLEAN&lt;/em&gt; micro-fiber cleaning cloths is a good way to go. You'll want to use one which has a short nap and the other will be a waffle weave pattern one. Something like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short nap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh7SS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh7SS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waffle weave:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOcKz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOcKz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one you use for cleaning with your choice of cleaning solution. The first key is to not use too much cleaner. The second is to spray the cleaner on the short nap towel (this keeps overspray off of your dash). You need enough cleaner on the towel to be moist but not dripping. Use the short nap towel on the window to clean the surface. It works better if you do this underhanded from the passenger side of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have cleaned the window with the short nap towel, use the waffle weave towel to clean the any residue off of the windshield. You may need to work this around a little bit, but the waffle weave will do the job. Continue finding clean spots on your waffle weave by folding and refolding it. This will help with finding all of the grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you use the waffle weave, use some RainX anti-fog like @RoryAlsop was saying. This will help with the fogging and with any recurring buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Wib7ROto9zU?t=6m34s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical Guys have a video&lt;/a&gt; which explains it pretty well. I have it started at the windshield point, but you may want to watch the entire thing. They (obviously) are promoting their products, but the method he uses is pretty good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, you don't want to use ammonia based cleaners anywhere you have tint, as this can damage the tint. I saw one guy using a spray bottle full of water with just one drop of dish washing liquid in it ... works pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T22:24:05.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22145" CreationDate="2015-10-28T22:25:22.747" Score="5" ViewCount="4024" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my more-or-less stock 1968 Vw Beetle...why is the steering wheel slipping (to a new position) in reference to the wheels...after installing (two) new TRW steering boxes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the shop install a new adjustable beam and at the same time, a new TRW steering box. Immediately thereafter when I would turn the steering wheel at slow speeds (eg parallel parking, under heavy load), and then later drive, the steering wheel would have &quot;slipped&quot;. I'd be going straight but the wheel would be 45 degrees to one way or the other. I found that if I stopped and turned it under heavy load the other direction I could get it to &quot;slip&quot; back to straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no problem with the steering before though. The problem occurred with first new TRW steering box. The shop said it was the steering box slipping internally. I had them install a second TRW (Brazilian). Still same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of suggestions on all of these forums, referenced below. But can someone answer what else could possibly be slipping for my following specific circumstances? Did I get two bad brand new TRW steering boxes? Is the shop incorrect in blaming the steering box, or is it entirely likely (historically probable) that it's the (two) new boxes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts Name/Reference Image (albeit for 1961)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/461575.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/461575.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The steering box, beam, pitman arm, and everything from the pitman arm out to the wheels was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In 6 years of ownership, the original equipment never slipped before this upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It slips, and stays, in both directions. In other words, it's not just a flex. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both wheels stay aligned afterward. No other unusual vibrations, shimmying, etc occur. (seems to rule out slipping at the wheel/ball joints).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shop has &quot;thoroughly&quot; checked that nothing is visibly slipping, like on the input shaft or on the output shaft/pitman arm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspection of the first &quot;bad&quot; steering box shows no fresh metal scraping on the shaft to suggest slipping over the splining (seems to rule out actual slipping at these junctions which otherwise seem the most likely).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop also seemed to think since the pitman arm installed doesn't have the steering stops that I was turning the wheels too far and going beyond the gear in the steering box, then coming back on a different thread. But this isn't what's happening because the problem occurs even with a very small turn of the wheel under higher load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering shaft slip (seems most likely?)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=595723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=595723&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New steering box:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering box slip?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering box adjustment 67 bug&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609086&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609086&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering wheel slipping on shaft&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6735090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6735090&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TRW Steering Box&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=243705&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=243705&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vw-resource.com/steering_box_adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vw-resource.com/steering_box_adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastEditorUserId="12929" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T21:34:00.977" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T19:31:21.183" Title="1968 VW Beetle Steering Shaft/Box Slip" Tags="|vw|steering|steering-wheel|beetle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22143" CreationDate="2015-10-29T00:59:36.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture you have in the first link, the shaft (#27 in the picture) where the coupler (#40) attaches has a notch in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxLgs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxLgs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the shaft is not splined, the notch would serve two purposes: 1) to ensure the steering shaft (red arrow) stays on the notched shaft (#27); 2) to ensure the shaft (red arrow) doesn't turn on the notched shaft (#27). Both of these things are accomplished by means of the bolt which goes through the #40. If this bolt is not big enough around (thick enough), it won't engage the notch correctly. If it isn't engaging the notch, it would allow the coupler and steering shaft to turn on #27. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just thinking about it, you may be able to test where the slippage is occurring by cramping the steering. Run the steering all the way over to the stop (right or left, shouldn't matter), then crank on it a little more. You should be able to tell where the slippage is occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still cannot tell, put reference marks anywhere there &lt;em&gt;could be slippage&lt;/em&gt;. If you put straight lines on both sides of the possible slip area which start inline, when it does slip, you'll easily be able to tell the difference and know where the slip is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T00:59:36.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22148" CreationDate="2015-10-29T07:07:10.743" Score="4" ViewCount="1408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Civic which was running fine and then stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key to ON, the dash lights come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key to START the starter turns and the engine turns over but the dash lights go out and the car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can however jump/crash start the car from the ON position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T10:29:44.773" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T10:29:44.773" Title="1996 Honda Civic won't start" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22147" CreationDate="2015-10-29T08:16:15.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is a faulty ignition switch.  If I understand the symptoms correctly, it sounds like the switch is providing power to the engine ignition system when in position 2, but when you put it in position 3 to start the car, the ignition switch breaks the power to the engine ignition system causing the lights to go out and failure to start.  Because you only put it in position 2 to push start (and I am presuming here that is what you mean when you say jump/crash start) the car starts as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean it starts using jump leads, then you either have a bad connection at the battery terminals causing a high resistance or your battery is not able to provide enough power and needs replacing.  If this is the case I would expect the starter motor to sound like it is struggling to turn the engine when you try to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T08:16:15.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22138" CreationDate="2015-10-29T12:58:40.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also live in Canada, southwestern part. I would suggest simply paying attention to the weather / forecast. If it is going to be below -10C, be prepared to plug in. Vehicles will probably start down to the -20C's, but cold starts are damaging. Probably need to watch the weather more than January and February depending where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:58:40.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:05:41.217" Score="3" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took radiator cap off, antifreeze came up like a volcano. The car wasn't on, and hasnt been on a day. I can't find out what it is, help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12936" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T13:05:41.217" Title="Honda Accord 1998" Tags="|honda|accord|radiator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-13T05:59:43.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2015-10-29T13:07:17.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your basic premise is not actually true. Often the more powerful motor will consume less fuel. Engines have different technological features that may affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reference 100bhp or 300bhp usually indicates the maximum power that engine can produce. So when you push the accelerator to the floor, the throttle is wide open, and you are producing a large amount of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 100kmh, a high powered engine may be running really gently whereas a 100bhp engine may be struggling near its top end. I know that my 400bhp car consumes less fuel than my wife's  80bhp car at 90mph. But in accelerating to that speed, I will typically take 6 seconds and consume a huge amount of fuel, whereas she will take 25 seconds and probably not drop below 30 mpg. My car will still have a couple more gears and 100mph more, while hers will be in top gear at that point and near its max speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I accelerated at the same speed as her, my car will use slightly more fuel than hers, as my 2.5l engine at low speeds definitely consumes more fuel than her 1.2l engine - that's a basic factor of size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of answers your question, despite having an opposite conclusion to your original premise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T13:07:17.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T14:29:06.683" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a local listing for a 2007 Honda Civic with 40,000 miles. It's a standard-shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for any recommendations, specifically, but I want to know - this is a very low number of miles for the age of the vehicle - well under the average number I'd expect; this car has been driven less than 5,000 miles per year (the US average is 12,000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a few questions (which I hope will be relevant to a larger audience):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What potential pitfalls should one be aware of when looking at a car of this age with such a low mile count (For instance, rubber gaskets and seals, engine sludge, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there ways to know whether the car has been sitting for a long time (via inspection, etc)? Are &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any warning signs that I should look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11129" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T21:18:38.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T21:18:38.367" Title="What pitfalls are there when buying an old car with low milage?" Tags="|maintenance|buying|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-11-03T09:05:05.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14703" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:05:22.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the spider injection assembly I had multiple cracked fuel lines . They were dumping fuel into the plenum &amp;amp; not into the cylinder .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12945" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T16:05:22.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:24:50.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this problem. I got all of them loose but one at the bottom. I tried everything it wouldnt come loose. Jacked it up took it out of gear spun the tire around so that the nut was on top. It came right off without a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12946" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T16:24:50.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22152" CreationDate="2015-10-29T16:50:49.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re 2: One tell-tale sign that a car has been sitting for a while is a pad-shaped mark on the brake rotors (disks). This mark tends to last for quite a while even if the car has been driven again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T16:50:49.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22103" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:34:42.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have the turbocharger rebuilt. With that many miles on it, it's a good bet that it's leaking oil past the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seal completely fails on the compressor side of the turbo this can be the death of a Diesel. The oil flows in and burns like fuel, usually causing a runaway situation that you cannot stop (since Diesels are controlled by fueling). The engine will continue to burn it's own oil until it dies from over-revving or a lack of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:34:42.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22152" CreationDate="2015-10-29T17:53:34.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dont discount your nose.  If the car smells musty there may have been a water issue keeping it off the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it could just be that it wasnt driven all that much.  In 2006 I bought a 2001 with 17K miles on it.  We are now up to 180K and still going strong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:53:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21608" CreationDate="2015-10-29T18:05:49.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a sticking injector. When you turn the car off an injector is staying open a bit and 'bleeding' off the pressure in the fuel rail until there is no more. This fuel sits in the intake manifold/cylinder and the engine acts like it is 'flooded' when trying to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing a fuel pressure test after shutting the car off would confirm this diagnosis, but I know not everyone has a gauge laying around to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes a bit of a trained nose, but worth a try; Remove your oil dipstick and smell the oil. If it smells a like gasoline this is a good indicator of a sticking injector. This is because some of the fuel sitting in the cylinder will find its way past the piston rings and fall directly into the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T18:05:49.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2015-10-29T19:49:19.763" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to contemplate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need a certain amount of power at the wheels to maintain a certain speed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assertion is (correctly) made in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 100 km/h, a typical sedan would require roughly 10 hp at sea level to overcome the forces due to aerodynamic drag and maintain speed¹.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that an engine can produce 100 hp or 300 hp peak power is of no consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who said that less powerful engines are more efficient?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might seem like that, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/22151/675&quot;&gt;Rory is right&lt;/a&gt;; the assumption that engines producing less power are more efficient isn't always true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept of &lt;em&gt;brake-specific fuel consumption&lt;/em&gt; (BSFC) helps us understand this, which is explained very nicely in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1109-brake-specific-fuel-consumption/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot Rod article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, BSFC is just engineer-speak for how much fuel is consumed by the engine per unit of energy².&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the plot below shows, this number varies based on engine RPM. A smaller BSFC means better fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kn1L2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BSFC&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how can a more powerful car sip less fuel at a given speed?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since each engine will have its own BSFC signature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The BSFC curve of the high-power engine could be lower.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be especially true when comparing engines designed decades ago to modern-day marvels boasting things like EFI, variable-valve timing or forced induction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gearing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the BSFC curves are comparable, the gearing of the vehicle could mean that the RPM of the more powerful engine is in a more efficient part of the curve at a given speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A classic example of this is the &quot;overdrive&quot; gear found in some vehicles to help improve fuel economy at highway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - The &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0837617324&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch Automotive Handbook&lt;/a&gt; explains how to estimate this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;² - Alternatively, BSFC = fuel flow rate per unit power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T10:50:24.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:17:07.817" Score="5" ViewCount="2450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally placed engin oil in the atf reservoir in a BMW 520d. How do I fix it? &#xA;I have to ask that what effect on my car and how i remove all the ATF oil and how to refil new oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW E39, 520d, Model 2001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T21:26:19.357" Title="accidentally placed oil in the atf reservoir in a BMW 520d. How do I fix it?" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18245" CreationDate="2015-10-30T00:01:00.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Chev Astro 4.3 Vortec V6 with the transitionary OBD1.5 connector and I use a Craftsman Scantool CanOBD2&amp;amp;1 Kit, part number 920899 (about $300+ US back around the turn of the century [2000]), to read the codes and reset faults. It works. It has always worked. I bought it to talk to my '86 and '88 OBDI TransAM WS6 GTAs which it does quite well. I had no idea what OBD1.5 was until I bought my 95 Explorer Conversion Van but I guess I lucked out because it has saved me countless hours of diagnostic time tracking down weird problems like a leaking injector hose (inside the bread loaf upper intake manifold). I found my way here looking to see if anyone had found a way to interface an OBD2 reader to this connector since it gives out OBD2 data but the connector doesn't match up. I figured I'd make a quick check to see if there was already something out here before I tried my hand at building an adapter. I want to interface an OBD2 bluetooth adapter to send real time data to my Nexus 7 tablet like I do with my 97 Ford Ranger. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12952" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T00:01:00.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22152" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:05:23.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to ensure the mileage is accurate is to check how worn the driver's seat is (compare it to the passenger's or back seats).  If the car doesn't have a lot of miles, the seat shouldn't be too worn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T02:05:23.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22165" CreationDate="2015-10-30T04:51:57.607" Score="4" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Vehicle Tracking Unit,&#xA;The Connection required is &#xA;Red - +12V&#xA;Black - GND&#xA;Green - Ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to test the unit before putting it into the car. So to simulate the ignition procedure, what is to be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit comes on only after the CAR is put on said the guy who sold the equipment to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the Green be tied to Vcc (+12) ? Or Ground for the On State? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13017" OwnerDisplayName="user2967920" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:26:27.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:26:27.613" Title="What is the State of the Ignition Pin of a Vehicle?" Tags="|ignition|theft-prevention|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22163" CreationDate="2015-10-30T05:03:30.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the ignition key on in a car, it provides +12 volts to the ignition system and accessories, so I would expect the green wire should be connected to +12 volts (but the documentation of the device should clearly describe its requirements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12111" OwnerDisplayName="Peter Bennett" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T05:03:30.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22163" CreationDate="2015-10-30T05:29:47.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tie the ignition wire to +12V to simulate ignition on. Grounding the green wire will simulate ignition off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T05:29:47.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T05:40:58.780" Score="3" ViewCount="3094" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you shouldn't drive with no coolant, because in most cases obviously your car will overheat, blow a head gasket and all that fun stuff. I drive a 4cyl 2.5L Ford Ranger. One time I realized it had none in it, I planned on getting some but I forgot the next day. I drove it for about a week before remembering. My truck never even came close to over heating ... can anyone explain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12954" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T11:22:06.930" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:29:24.663" Title="No radiator fluid in resevoir" Tags="|engine|ford|coolant|overheating|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22166" CreationDate="2015-10-30T08:16:37.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't have any coolant in the cooling system at all, your engine probably wouldn't last more than 15 minutes driving in a moderate climate before it seized.  Just because you can't see any in the reservoir which only holds a small amount, it doesn't mean there isn't any in the engine, radiator, pipes etc.  Obviously if you can't see any in the reservoir, you don't have a clue how much is really in there, so it is not a good idea to drive like that.  Presumably you only had to add a small amount (a couple of pints maybe) to bring it back to normal.  If this happens again, don't presume you can get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T08:16:37.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T10:32:22.860" Score="5" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem in the multimedia system in my car. Whenever I leave the car off for two days (like the weekends for example), the multimedia system drains the battery and, subsequently, I have problems in starting the car. So, every weekend I have to open the front hood, detach the multimedia system fuse and on Monday morning I attach the fuse back again.&#xA;Is there another way to do this without opening/closing the hood every-time?&#xA;I tried to look at the configuration of the multimedia system, but there is not totally shut off option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there other solution for this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12240" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T15:02:53.623" Title="Multimedia system fuse detach" Tags="|fuse|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-30T10:44:04.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The humble potato for clean windscreens and motor bike helmets, also will STOP glass and plastic shields from FOGGING UP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut potato in half, rub on area to be cleaned, let juice dry, rub off with towelling, not your best towels, other wise your mom/mum will hit the roof,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;presto, no more foggy windows or fogged up plastic shields, ummm, spit will do the same thing to underwater goggles, stop them fogging up too, just look at Llloyd Bridges doing same before he went under in Sea Hunt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12956" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T10:44:04.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22168" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:08:40.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd wire the live supply to the multimedia system to the switched live (ie the 12V when the key is on) and not always live (direct to the battery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a simple fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem a bit strange that the current draw from the multimedia system is so high when off, though, so you may want to check the system and see if it is behaving correctly. All the systems I have had, even my current one which runs a Debian audio server, will power down to zero current draw after a time period of no activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:08:40.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22166" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:29:24.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because you don't see any coolant in your overflow/reservoir, doesn't mean the system doesn't have enough fluid in it to keep your engine from over heating. There are other factors involved as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engineering of your particular vehicle may not require as much coolant as it normally would have ... ie: the vehicle engineers over engineered this one part of your vehicle. Feel lucky if this is the case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not have put much stress on the vehicle to cause it to overheat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your climate may not be overly hot, which may not need as much coolant or coolant capacity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the bigger thing to be thinking about here is &lt;em&gt;why was your reservoir tank low in the first place?&lt;/em&gt; For the most part, the cooling system is a closed system, meaning it shouldn't be loosing/gaining coolant. If everything is as it should be, it should stay relatively the same (might be small fluctuations). If your reservoir has become empty, you need to figure out &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it became empty so it doesn't happen again. Is the engine sucking in the coolant and burning it? Is it draining out on the ground? Did it overheat a little and come gushing out the overflow? Whatever the reason, I'd be on the lookout for it and get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:29:24.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:29:45.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fitting ISOFIX (LATCH in the US) to a European Mk2 Ford Focus (2005-2010) my steps were as follows.  Note that this is for a UK-registered vehicle with the single-split rear seat behind the driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No removal of seat belts or any other bolts should be required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer - this is my DIY attempt, I'm not a qualified mechanic so please only carry the work out if you're confident in your own abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools / parts required&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ford part # 1357238 (1x ISOFIX mounting point, 2x Torx T50 bolts, 2x plastic guides)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat head screwdriver (to push clasp securing the seat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torx T50 head socket (to fit T50 bolts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fitting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the lower section of the double-split rear seat cushion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the upper section of the double-split rear seat cushion and pull down to reveal the hinge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the hinge clasp by pushing the securing metal clasp (painted white on my vehicle) with the flat head screwdriver towards the rear of the car.  This should pivot open and allow the rear seat upright portion to be removed.  Pull the double-split upright portion away from the (still fixed) single-split seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate and remove two rubber bungs to reveal the bracket mounting points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit ISOFIX bracket with supplied T50 bolts.  You may wish to use thread-lock on the bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-fit the seat cushions, closing the hinge clasp to secure the seat upright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the ISOFIX bracket now visible between the upper and lower seat cushions, optionally fit the two plastic guides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further to the above steps, I created &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpQQQn0beVg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video/slideshow&lt;/a&gt; to show these steps involved in fitting the Ford ISOFIX bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12957" LastEditorUserId="12957" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T16:54:17.057" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:54:17.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22163" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:34:51.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just testing the equipment, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the hood of your car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the black wire to the ground (negative or earth) side of your battery .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the red and green wire to the positive (+) side of the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit should light up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything looks to be working, install the unit as described in the instructions. The black wire is obviously attached to the ground (earth). The red wire should be an always on source of power. The green wire should go to a switched source. It's easiest to find the switched power source through the fuse box. Piggy back it off of one of the other switched fuses and you'll be golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T11:34:51.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T11:58:26.817" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Car&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Problematic behavior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About this time last year is when this all started.  It first surfaced in that when I went to startup the car &lt;strong&gt;it started but after about a second it stopped&lt;/strong&gt;.  A few times doing this, it finally stays running.  &lt;em&gt;But this is typically the start to a 2 - 5 day odd-symptom period&lt;/em&gt;, including the following behavior:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;while driving the speedometer gets stuff at a certain speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;while driving the cluster indicators can go haywire (i.e. oil pressure says its erroring, airbags indicator blinks, gas gauge goes to empty when its not, etc. basically all of the cluster gauges have mis-reads)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I stop the car and take the key out (and even open the door) the radio and the cluster stay &quot;on&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens, like I said, for 2 - 5 days and then it goes back to normal after this period.  I tried taking it to a mechanic but by the time he looked at it, it went back to the &quot;normal&quot; state and there was nothing to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the error code (which also goes away when returning back to &quot;normal&quot;) and it was a communication error with the cluster control module (I think that's what it is called).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then yesterday morning, all was just fine.  Drove the car in the morning.  In the afternoon, I noticed that the dome lights were on and the door ajar indicator was showing an open door (this was new behavior).  I turned the ignition on and then off.  That behavior went away.  Then last night I noticed the dome lights and door ajar were again on.  Same thing, I turned ignition on then off and it went away.  Sure enough, woke up to a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Funny thing: it didn't happen all summer long during the warm months.  Not sure if this is related to temperature&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas here?  Does it sound like the module itself is just slowly failing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1602" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T12:14:35.763" Title="Odd Dashboard Cluster and Control Behavior" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22174" CreationDate="2015-10-30T12:14:35.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was reading this, 'Rain' came to mind.  Water ingress could definitely cause problems like this.  Could you match the problem up to rain even a day or so before.  I have seen water get in a car, which then slowly creeps along inside the wire insulation and then ends up at an ECU, causing all sorts of problems.&#xA;Checking the ECU connectors would likely show up the problem where green corrosion of the terminals will likely be seen and maybe water.&#xA;Before finding where the water got in, I cleaned the ECU connector, then packed the connector with petroleum jelly which stopped the water getting into the connector.&#xA;The symptoms I had were very similar, the alarm would go off, the lights would be illuminated on the dashboard, the interior light would be on and I would not be able to lock the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T12:14:35.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22182" CreationDate="2015-10-30T13:35:38.077" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've 2000 Yamaha R1 that I'm racing in my local Clubman's Championship. At the moment the throttle travel is very long, ie. half a turn or more from fully closed to fully open. I want to change this to a quick throttle, ie. a 1/4 turn from fully closed to fully open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a quick throttle kit, but this is both very expensive and not available for my relatively old bike. Could I fit a throttle tube from a different bike to accomplish this and if so which bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Willem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6454" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T05:33:09.277" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T05:33:09.277" Title="2000 Yamaha R1 Quick Action Throttle" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22181" CreationDate="2015-10-30T14:45:05.217" Score="4" ViewCount="2383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a weird problem. I recently changed the radiator and flushed the whole coolant system during replacing the radiator. I also flushed the heating core by itself. The thermostat was recently changed and it doesn't seems to be stuck open because if the car is sitting it warms up properly. The coolant temperature sensor was also changed recently because the temperature gauge would start in the middle and that seemed to be the solution to that problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem:&#xA;When I start the car and leave it sitting, it warms up properly and stay at 1/2 of the temperature gauge. However when I start driving the temperature gauge drops a lot. Most of my commute is on the highway and most of the time the temperature gauge stays at 1/8. This mainly affects the heat, right now if I leave the car sitting the heat works great but once I start driving on the highway it is not as hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked to an employee at Autozone and he told me to make sure I burped the engine. From what I am reading online the car would be over heating if it was not properly burped. But it can't hurt to try, so I plan on getting a lisle funnel soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other solutions or ideas of what the problem might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:42:01.860" Title="1996 Rav4 not warming up properly when driving and heat not hot" Tags="|toyota|coolant|heater|warmup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22168" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:02:53.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems very odd that your system drags so much of power . I would not recommend to directly connect to the ignition switch. Instead you can attach a relay in the following manner: (apologies in advance for poor drawing )&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e13fD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circuit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T15:02:53.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:11:03.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;6 steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean the surface. step one remove organics. hit with wet cloth soaked in Clorox. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse with very damp rag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alcohol or acetone to remove petroleum based stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ammonia to remove cleaners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse with water soaked towel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chamois wipe down. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also good for removing rain-x. yuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12962" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T09:12:04.033" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T09:12:04.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22177" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:26:37.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you replace the radiator with  OEM or aftermarket?  It almost sounds like the new rad has more surface area and it cooling at speed better than the old one did.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T15:26:37.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22177" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:30:25.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the thermostat is stuck open, you would get the symptoms you describe.  A thermostat stuck closed will cause overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T15:30:25.757" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22176" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:32:36.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your bike specifics you may be able to make one yourself with the method described at this site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24848&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to take into account the required additional length of cable, tighter turns that the cable has to route through, you may also have to loosen the cable at the throttlebody/carb end to allow it to idle normally on closed throttle and then open faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:32:36.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22177" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:42:01.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible explanation is that some coolant is bypassing the thermostat altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the thermostat and seal arrangement, this could happen if the thermostat isn't properly seated in the surrounding seal, or if the seal is compromised and not doing its job properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also explain to some extent why the thermostat seems to work when the car is stationary but not when the car is moving. In highway driving, the water pump runs faster, pressurizing the coolant more, which allows more cooalnt to leak past the thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:42:01.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21748" CreationDate="2015-10-30T16:49:32.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAN is a broadcast medium. When your ECU is sending a bit in a CAN frame, the other ECUs on the bus should be reading that bit at the same time (receivers recover the clock in real-time by oversampling the bus signal). Adding translation hardware will break this property, and you will end up with two different CAN buses (one just for the ECU, the '98 S14 CAN bus, and the '04 RX8 CAN bus) with your translation unit performing gatewaying (receiving data, unpacking and repacking signals and transmitting the repacked data on the other bus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the challenges I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will add latency. Because these are engine signals, this might not be acceptable for all signals. For just reporting the state to the driver, it's probably OK. But, mechanical controls like power steering or ABS likely expect very little latency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are databases which describe the CAN signals for ECUs, but they are tightly controlled by automakers. It is unlikely you will find this information. Therefore, you will need to reverse engineer the CAN signals from an '04 RX8 engine. You will also need to know what the signals from the SR20det ECU mean. This information might be more easily found, but if not, more reverse engineering! Easier said than done, but not impossible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have knowledge of what translations to perform, creating a translator is relatively straightforward. Find a microcontroller with two CAN channels and write software to perform the translation. Don't forget to do lots of testing! You might even get away with the existing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ti.com/tool/ek-tm4c123gxl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;TI Tiva C LaunchPad&quot;&gt;TI Tiva C LaunchPad&lt;/a&gt; hardware, which includes 2 CAN channels and has an Arduino-like ecosystem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://energia.nu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Energia&quot;&gt;Energia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:49:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22187" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:04:04.733" Score="6" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to top up the oil in my 2003 Opel Agila with some 5W-40 oil. However, the only oil that I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-5w30-part-synthetic-ford-oil-2l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halfords &lt;strong&gt;Ford&lt;/strong&gt; Oil 5w-40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a Vauxhall/Opel Agila 1.2 Petrol (naturally aspirated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use these oils? Will I damage my engine by doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be using Vauxhall oil (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-vauxhall-opel-gm-5w30-fully-synthetic-oil-2l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) instead of just generic 5W-40?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: The manual says this:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Oil Grade: ACEA A3/B3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Oil Viscosity: 0W-X, 5W-X, 10W-X (where X is greater than or equal to 30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T13:38:04.617" Title="Can I use Turbo Diesel oil in my Petrol car?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22185" CreationDate="2015-10-30T19:10:35.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the oil meets the specifications for the oil your car needs, then yes, you can use them. If you don't understand about oil specification, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/12701/4152&quot;&gt;look at this answer&lt;/a&gt; I posted a while ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T19:10:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T19:39:40.193" Score="4" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would the driver's side window operate perfect with the original master switch but not work when I install a new power window master switch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased 2 new aftermarket power window master switches and 1 OEM switch. All three of the switches wouldn't control the driver's side window but every other button worked great on all the switches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does my original master switch control the driver's window but the new ones will not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12968" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T17:41:07.390" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:43:47.113" Title="2009 Toyota Camry's brand new OEM power window master switch won't control the drivers window" Tags="|electrical|toyota|camry|switches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22229" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:07:09.430" Score="8" ViewCount="20196" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when the thermostat is stuck open or closed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T15:05:21.067" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:17:26.637" Title="How does the thermostat work?" Tags="|cooling-system|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22189" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:30:34.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had no idea it would be called this, but the article in Wikipedia describes the &quot;low level&quot; detail of how the device works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_thermostatic_element&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wax thermostatic element&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an optimum temperature for the engine coolant (not too cold, not too hot) and a simple mechanical thermostat helps make that happen.  When it's closed, the water pump circulates the coolant through the engine and heater, so the water in  the engine heats up.  Coolant in the radiator itself will not be circulating and will be cooling down.  Once the water in the engine reaches the desired temperature, the thermostat opens, allowing circulation from the engine through the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting stuck&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the basics out of the way, what happens when it gets stuck should be obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuck Open:  Water will always circulate.  On a cool day, the radiator will keep the coolant at a fairly low temperature.  People normally figure this out in the winter when their heater &quot;stops working&quot;.  This isn't really noticeable other than the temperature sensor in the car never getting to where it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuck Closed: Water never circulates through the radiator.  Water in the engine will heat past it's boiling point causing burst hoses, and the engine will over heat.  This is much more obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T15:04:40.580" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T15:04:40.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:48:10.333" Score="6" ViewCount="2277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am slowly restoring a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 97K miles to use as a winter/light towing vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some sag in my coil springs and leaf springs and the shocks were shot.  So I had my garage replace everything.  I got the HD Coil/Leaf springs from Quadratec.com, since I heard good things about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been driving a few weeks and I seem to be feeling some vibrations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At idle - very slight vibration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse - vibrations seem to be coming from the front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In drive, between 35-40MPH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vibrations seem to be less in 4x4 mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had the transmission mount replaced as it was shot.  Improved #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guy at the main garage also checked my U-Joints and Drive shafts, said they were OK.  He also said it may be vibration because my springs added a slight amount of lift (and based on the Internet, the springs I got may provide a 1&quot;-1.5&quot; lift above stock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution I read is to get a transfer case spacer and drop that an 1&quot;.  My Transmission guy said that &quot;he doesn't know how to do this&quot; but it seems rather simple from watching youtube videos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would dropping the TC and/or replacing the engine mounts help me or should I look elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12969" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-10-30T21:21:04.910" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T21:26:27.253" Title="Fixing vibrations caused by replacing springs?" Tags="|suspension|jeep|vibration|drivetrain|cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:55:22.700" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to warm up new engines they're made out of aluminum that was a procedure for old cast iron blocks, they weren't very tolerant to sudden temperature changes and were liable to develop cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12971" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T21:55:22.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:58:07.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on vehicle weight, if it's a large and heavy car then counter intuitively bigger engine will get better mpg than a small one, because it won't have to rev as high just to move it and then at speed it will be able to sustain speed with much lower rpm than smaller engine would.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12972" LastEditorUserId="12973" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T01:38:30.987" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T01:38:30.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-30T22:54:19.073" Score="2" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a BMW e93 with no sound, center console displays &quot;No Warning Tones&quot; message. Searching the web, came to conclusion that there maybe a break in the fiber optic MOST bus loop. Car has been previously poorly repaired before getting to me - not sure what was done to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess two questions: (1) what would cause &quot;no warning tones&quot; error with all sound gone - entertainment, warning tones, etc, (2) how to diagnose a broken MOST loop. I have read folks suggesting unplugging components and checking for presence of the red light (or using jumpers). Is this typically done with engine running? Or key in ignition? Is there some order of components that would be easier in terms of access to start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12144" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T22:54:19.073" Title="How to diagnose BMW MOST bus fiber optic for a break in the loop" Tags="|bmw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11527" CreationDate="2015-10-31T01:04:56.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to get mine off using floss. It fits into the gap between the windshield and the glued on metal button better than wire. You have to keep at it and use several pieces of floss since the floss will break. It took me about 10 minutes. Floss is thinner than most wires and fits into the narrow gap well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12975" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T01:04:56.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22202" CreationDate="2015-10-31T03:32:23.630" Score="3" ViewCount="2971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Echo 2005 and was quoted a ~$800+ repair for a broken AC compressor.  I trust my mechanics and his diagnosis, and without the repair the car is unusable (very loud grinding noise).  He also told me that unlike other cars, this car doesn't allow the AC to be bypassed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics mentioned there are other repairs coming down my way in the not so distant future: new brakes, &quot;pads&quot; (can't remember exact name for it) under the brakes that aren't cheap at all and probably need replacement, and possibly others.  The mechanics was even kind enough to explain it isn't an obvious call to make whether to fix and keep the car, or call it good and say bye to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as I love my Echo, I think I am ready to get rid of it before it becomes a money sink hole.  (Not to mention the perspective of getting a 2-3 year old LEAF that's making me more and more excited.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves me down with the question of whether to fix that AC compressor with the hope of selling the car for a couple thousand bucks on Craigslist like I sold all my other cars in the past, or, sell it as is I am not even sure to whom.  I read in a few places that major repairs before selling is typically not a good idea, but does that apply to a repair that makes the car not even drivable otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to get rid of my car in a financially intelligent way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T17:19:10.060" Title="Should I repair before selling?" Tags="|repair|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-11-03T09:04:44.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-31T10:37:05.473" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;my car is mitsubishi spacewagon 99model , I change the engine from GDI to small 4G63 &amp;amp; the fuel consuption of the vehicle is very high, I've change the nozzle,airflow meter, fuel pump &amp;amp; ICU,  please what can I do again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12979" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:33:31.977" Title="my car fuel consuption is very high!" Tags="|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-31T13:42:21.433" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have an unplated car sitting outside while I get some administrative tasks done. Should I leave the screws for the license plate in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T01:49:19.377" Title="Should I leave the license plate screws in while the car is unplated?" Tags="|license-plates|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-11-05T06:33:53.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22199" CreationDate="2015-10-31T16:58:57.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my OPINION that you should leave the screws in place, even without plates on the vehicle. If for no other reason so you don't lose them while the vehicle is stationary. They won't rust any more than if they were installed with plates on the vehicle, so that shouldn't be a worry. Depending on the vehicle, most have nylon inserts which the screws go into, so no worries of rusting there. Even if it has metal screw inserts, it will be just as exposed as it would be without the screws in place. Realistically, there is no &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; reason not to leave them installed. As I said, though, this is my opinion as I don't think you'd get an answer which is not opinion on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T16:58:57.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22203" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:16:04.280" Score="3" ViewCount="2577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this 2000 Subaru Legacy, manual transmission, with a 2.5L 4cyl. I've been getting occasional codes for bank 1 system too lean for a couple years now, but haven't had many issues with it and the car doesn't usually have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, recently it started missing something fierce. I've only pulled cylinder 2 and cylinder 4 misfire codes off of it since it started running funny, and I've tried everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugs, Wires, and Ignition Coil&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Platinum plugs and store band wires. Tried a replacement coil but didn't notice a change so I went back to the original.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum hoses&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced cracked vacuum hose going from intake manifold to fuel pressure regulator - that was probably causing my occasional lean condition on that side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also replaced vacuum hoses going to the EVAP Purge Solenoid (aka valve) under that side of the intake manifold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not finding any vacuum leaks anywhere using the carburetor cleaner spray method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pressure test&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pressure before fuel filter is well within range, both with and without the fuel pressure regulator plugged into vacuum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's important to note that the fuel filter was replaced less than a year ago, and I've replaced it just about once a year for the past 3 years I've owned it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel injectors are ticking&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The o-rings were replaced on those about a year ago, too, fixing a pretty massive vacuum leak which I have double checked and is no longer there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel system cleaner&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's been running on 8 gallons treated with 21gal gumout complete treatment for a few hours now, and it doesn't seem to be improving. That cleaner is capable of removing water as well as treating the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compression test&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all cylinders are building within 2-3 strokes to within parameters. All cylinders are behaving the same way, too, so one would expect that both sides of the engine would be misbehaving, not just one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no other codes getting pushed, and I do have a scanner capable of giving me live data, although I really don't know what to do with the data it's giving me, tbh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I'm noticing is that the EVAP canister purge solenoid is repeatedly ticking something awful when it's told to open, just ticktickiticktick the whole time it's open, and it's loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss, and wondering if someone out there might have an idea of what to look for next. Thanks in advance, and comment if you need more info - I'll get it ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12984" LastEditorUserId="12984" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T17:59:16.733" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T17:59:16.733" Title="Misfire on 2000 Subaru 2.5 diagnosis problem" Tags="|subaru|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22196" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:19:10.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PREFACE: Anything I or anyone will say here is OPINION ... please accept it as such. Ultimately it's up to you. With that said ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade off with the repair is how well it will sell without getting it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you live in an area where humidity can be high or where the temperatures soar, you'll find people will be less likely to buy a vehicle which the A/C is not working. This will do one of two things, either extend the sale time of the vehicle or you will have to drastically reduce the price to get it sold. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to look at the trade off of how much you can sell the vehicle for without the A/C as compared to how much you can sell it for &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the A/C fixed. If the trade-off is over $800, then the choice is an easy one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also need to realize that &lt;em&gt;time is money&lt;/em&gt;. If you are waiting and waiting to sell a car to a buyer who is willing to purchase it for a price you have advertised, it could be a while. If you are thinking of purchasing the newer vehicle after you sell your current vehicle, you could be sitting on your current vehicle for a while. This may make it so the other vehicle is no longer available to purchase. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, you'll have to discover what you need to do. Nobody here can tell you what to do, one way or the other. I'm sure there are more factors involved, but will leave it at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T17:19:10.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22201" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:26:40.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are getting a lean condition on a cylinder, it has to be fuel related or a vacuum leak. Since you suggested you have checked and cured at least one vacuum leak, I will assume this is not your issue. If it were spark related, it would be a rich condition. You've checked fuel pressure to be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves a problem with a fuel injector, which is not working correctly, either not opening fully or partially plugged. The easiest thing to do to see if this is actually your problem is to swap out two injectors. If the problem follows the injector, it will show up as a lean condition on the cylinder you swapped the injector to. If it stays at the same cylinder, it could be that you have an intermittent electrical gremlin at the #1 which would not fire the injector correctly. This situation would be a lot harder to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T17:26:40.457" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:30:47.017" Score="5" ViewCount="17324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just learned how to drive manual in my 2016 Mustang GT.  It has 3300 miles on it.  It makes a &quot;thud&quot; noise when I put the stick into low gears (1,2,3) sometimes.  This noise makes the car jolt, such that even passengers can feel it (similar to going over a concrete road joint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reproduce, I do this (for example):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be driving in 1st at 2500 RPM with the accelerator moderately down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the accelerator completely and press the clutch to the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait a second for the tach to drop to ~1900 (the Mustang holds it at the right RPM for the next gear up for two seconds)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the clutch still to the floor and the accelerator still completely released, pull the stick down into second gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease off the clutch and begin applying gas through the catch point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While doing #4, the car jolts and makes a thud noise--sometimes.  It seems to do this at lower RPMs more often than higher ones.  I can definitely feel it through the seat; it's not just a noise I hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not feel the same as the thud/clank I would get when I was first learning and was applying the accelerator unevenly and the car would jolt forward (which would scare me and make me let off the gas) and then would switch from being driven by the engine to driving the engine by inertia (the cross over point had slack in it, and the thud was caused by hitting the end of this slack suddenly).  It could be drive train slack, but I'm not going back and forth between engine breaking and accelerating like I used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to reproduce this from a complete standstill: just shift into first from neutral with the clutch hard to the floor.  Thud! Jolt!  Then, hold the clutch down and row through the gears while stopped: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th.  All smooth.  Back to 1st.  Smooth.  Drive, come to a stop, neutral, clutch, first: jolt! thud!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12986" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:28:51.727" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T13:24:19.247" Title="Why does my 2016 Mustang GT Manual jolt/thud when I shift?" Tags="|ford|manual-transmission|mustang|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22204" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:39:09.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the transmission mount, which is at the rear of the transmission (where the drive line yoke attaches to output shaft). Often times if you've gotten on the accelerator a little bit and do some hard shifting you can easily break the mount (or more likely after several times of doing this it will start splitting then finally give up and break). This is a common failure point due to torque output of the engine. It happens more often on manual shift transmission than on automatics, but can happen on either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you jack up the car and put it on some jack stands, then get under the car, you can probably see if this is the issue. It should be fairly self evident. You may even be able to push up on the back of the transmission and see if it's separated. Replacing it is usually an easy task, as it's held on by either three or four nuts/bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T17:39:09.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23813" CreationDate="2015-10-31T17:43:10.183" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '89 ford ranger that loses power and stutters intermittently around 2000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this could be a timing issue.  The Camshaft Sprocket and Crank pulley are lined up nicely but the oil pump sprocket is way off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What symptoms will this cause and could this be related to the issues I'm seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KrReu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KrReu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4299" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:39:36.160" Title="Auxiliary Shaft Sprocket" Tags="|ford|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22199" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:48:22.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention what state you're in (and you didn't ask), but in many states you cannot leave an unlicensed vehicle on the street. That said, I would leave the screws in, as that would help prevent them from getting filled with sand, dust, small debris, and oil. It's probably worth mentioning that if you're going to leave the car in the environment for any length of time (&gt; 6 months?), you probably have more to worry about than whether or not you should leave the license plate screws in or not.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Like Paulster's answer, this is an opinion-based answer. I'm not sure you could get a fact-based answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T01:49:19.377" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T01:49:19.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25853" CreationDate="2015-11-01T00:53:03.837" Score="8" ViewCount="10941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Nissan Altima and the odometer (not trip meter) reads 86186 miles when I first start the car. As it's driven, the odometer seems to work correctly, incrementing miles. But if I turn off the ignition the odometer resets to 86186 miles again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly cause this to occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched the internet to see if there was possibly a computer bug - but so far have found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12991" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T10:59:17.983" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:07:49.187" Title="Why would my odometer reset to the same mileage whenever I turn off the ignition?" Tags="|nissan|computer|altima|odometer|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T02:09:21.397" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something in my sedan's cabin air system smells bad (organic bad, not mechanical bad), even after changing the cabin air filter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bore scope, vacuum, compressor, and hoses sufficient that I think I could find and clean out the source.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;But&lt;/em&gt; I have no idea what the layout of the system is and how it is configured in each mode&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;ndash; i.e., what position each damper would be in, what dimensions I'm likely to encounter as I snake through the ducts, and where each of the HVAC components sit.  I'm not even sure where &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the intakes and outlets are.  (I also understand that just opening the entire system is a four-figure project.  Given the tools I have available that's probably unnecessary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find a detailed schematic of the HVAC system for a late-model sedan?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And are they generally similar enough between makes and models that one example would be enough to give me an idea of where components, dampers, and intakes are?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do they vary significantly enough that I would need a model-specific drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T18:03:06.710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T18:03:06.710" Title="2010 Volvo S80 - Cabin HVAC system schematics" Tags="|ac|hvac|smell|diagram|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T04:54:58.437" Score="3" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy this Impact Wrench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE-18-Volt-1-2-in-Cordless-3-Speed-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE-18-Volt-1-2-in-Cordless-3-Speed-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Impact Wrench has 3 speeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0-2,900 RPM for maximum torque (no load speed)&#xA;0-2,300 RPM for controlling driving depth and fastener tension (no load speed)&#xA;0-1,800 RPM for precision fastening (no load speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the highest speed, it produces 300 ft. lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is its torque at the lower speeds (2300 and 2800 RPM) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T04:54:58.437" Title="Question about Ryobi P261 Impact Wrench Torque" Tags="|torque|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22215" CreationDate="2015-11-01T05:30:33.617" Score="1" ViewCount="4566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any problem with jacking a car from its side? The following illustration shows the idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbiuE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbiuE.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the car is on park and parking brake is fully engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this approach, I can rotate my wheels. Also, this should be safer than jack stand all four wheels, since I have the stability and support of the other side wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="34706" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T20:31:48.053" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T20:31:48.053" Title="Is there any problem with jack a car from its side?" Tags="|jack|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T10:22:54.117" Score="2" ViewCount="2552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed engine oil of my Apache rtr 160. I used otul 5100 15W50. Later I started experiencing vibrations, a lot of vibrations. I checked on the engine oil. The quantity is reduced to half. No engine oil leak found. Quantity that I poured in was 1ltr. Required quantity is 1ltr. What could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10906" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T10:53:18.313" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T11:52:08.413" Title="Engine oil reducing almost to half" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil-leak|vibration|apache-rtr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22212" CreationDate="2015-11-01T10:22:56.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no issue with doing this as long as you place the jack stands in supporting places on the side of the car and the car is on flat, firm, level ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your statement about &quot;&lt;em&gt;... this should be safer than jack stand all four wheels...&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is a bad premise. As long as the jack stands are at supporting places on the car and you are on flat ground, there should be absolutely no stability issues with jack stands at all four wheels. This is covered on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17637/4152&quot;&gt;this question/answer series&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T10:22:56.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22214" CreationDate="2015-11-01T10:51:41.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should clean the area around the bottom drain plug, fill the oil back up to capacity, run the bike and check to see if the leak is at the drain plug. The aluminum washer which seals the plug can become &quot;squished&quot; at some point and require replacement. On my car, I replace this washer &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; I change the oil, though it does come in the oil filter kit (along with needed o-rings and filter). This is the most logical place for the leak to be occurring. The oil can either be burned or leaked. Since (I assume) you are not seeing voluminous amounts of blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe, you have to assume it is being leaked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T10:51:41.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T14:30:08.593" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone can help as we have this Mondeo and all of a sudden all the ignition went and have no power at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what it might be? All the fuses are fine and still power is going to the interior lights and we still can lock the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12994" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T16:08:11.970" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T16:08:11.970" Title="ford mondeo v6 st24" Tags="|ford|ignition|headlight|mondeo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22330" CreationDate="2015-11-01T14:47:34.283" Score="15" ViewCount="52164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke two of my car's lug nut studs, and I had to take the car to mechanic for repair. The mechanic explained that sometimes lug nuts are highly over-torqued because all shops use impact gun to tighten them, but does not cause any problems as long as they are opened using an impact wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my mechanic explained that using a breaker bar (like below) in over-torqued situations can damage the studs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKXie.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKXie.png&quot; alt=&quot;breaker bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is to correct to say that avoiding breaker bars and using an impact wrench instead prevents damage to nuts or bolts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it correct to say that over-torquing lug nuts with an impact gun is fine as long as we open them with impact gun rather than a breaker bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Uodate 1:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand and completely agree that a torque wrench is the best approach. However, that is not the context of this question. So we should move from the ideal world to real world where most mechanic shops use impact gun. When we need to open to open an over-torqued lug nut, I can think of 3 options to handle the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1: use a breaker bar.&lt;/strong&gt; Well that broke my lug stud :(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2: Use an impact gun to open the lug nut&lt;/strong&gt;. My mechanic claims that it always works for him without breaking the stud. He suggested that I should have used this option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 3: use a lubricant such as W40.&lt;/strong&gt; Many people don’t like the idea since it changes the torque spec of the lug nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is which of the above option should I consider or is there a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I 100% agree that a torque wrench should be used in the 1st place. However, when we end up with an over tighten nut, a breaker bar can cause more damage compare to a similar rotational force created by a four-way or torque gun. It was a mystery to me how come my mechanic never ended up breaking my lug studs, and I broke 4 of them at the 1st try!! He always uses a torque gun, and I used a breaker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Once again, I 100% agree that a torque wrench should have been used in the 1st place. Can't emphasise it enough&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It costed me $160 to earn this experience, I hope this post save someone else's lug studs :) It is possible to find a fine corded impact wrench for $40, which is fine for home use. I got this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.ca/product/18-volt-one-1-2-in-cordless-3-speed-impact-wrench-tool-only/919361&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.ca/product/18-volt-one-1-2-in-cordless-3-speed-impact-wrench-tool-only/919361&lt;/a&gt; here is a demo video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvvDYHZ-GeM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvvDYHZ-GeM&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T23:41:20.530" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T05:14:41.243" Title="Does using an impact wrench instead of a breaker bar prevent damaging to nuts or bolts?" Tags="|lug-nut|wheel-lugs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T15:01:55.537" Score="3" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2000 Toyota Sienna the rear blinker assembly clips broke off while replacing light. Any idea how to fix clips? And where to get those clips? Or, do I need to to buy whole assembly kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12995" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T06:51:15.647" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T06:51:15.647" Title="2000 Toyota Sienna Rear Blinker Assembly Clips Broke Off any idea how to fix clips.? and where to get clips..?" Tags="|toyota|sienna|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22218" CreationDate="2015-11-01T15:18:52.870" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: No.  An impact wrench isn't a cure-all.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The mechanic explained that sometimes lug nuts are much over torque&#xA;  because all shops use impact gun to tighten them. That does not cause&#xA;  any problem as long as they are opened using an impact wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's not quite true.  Over-torque is bad in and of itself.  At a very high level, it damages the threads on the studs, puts strain on the stud itself and can cause warping of the rotor and wheel that it's attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is to correct to say that avoiding breaker bars and using an impact&#xA;  wrench instead prevent damaging though nuts or bolts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevent?  No.  If your lug nuts were over-torqued, you already have a problem and some damage has been done.  Admittedly, it might be relatively minor but torque specs exist for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you have a stuck bolt (due to rust, over-torque or just general perversity of the universe), you sometimes need to explore other tools and techniques.  For example, one trick I've used at the end of winter is to get the nuts off that I can, hit the remainder with some penetrating oil and then raise and lower the car on the jack a couple of times.  The motion of the wheel as the load is added and taken away can sometimes unstick a nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I frequently use an impact wrench to &lt;em&gt;loosen&lt;/em&gt; nuts.  If it's not working, I'll back off, though and try a different tool.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3742/57&quot;&gt;This was a hard-learned lesson....&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it correct to say that over torquing lug nuts with an impact gun is&#xA;  fine as long as we open them with impact gun rather than a beaker bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fine&quot;?  No.  Is this a magic impact wrench that can be set to the proper torque spec?  I doubt it.  Remember that an impact wrench has &quot;impact&quot; in the name.  It is hitting the fitting with impulsive torque rapidly.  It doesn't do a soft landing when it starts approaching the correct torque spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quoting Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An impact wrench (also known as an impactor, air wrench, air gun,&#xA;  rattle gun, torque gun, windy gun) is a socket wrench power tool&#xA;  designed to deliver high torque output with minimal exertion by the&#xA;  user, by storing energy in a rotating mass, then delivering it&#xA;  suddenly to the output shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See that &quot;suddenly&quot;?  It's not going to be able to stop itself on a dime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of motorized hand tools that do have coarse torque settings.  I will often use those for the boring parts (going from zero to about 75% torque).  Then I'll switch to the torque wrench for the exact specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T15:18:52.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22222" CreationDate="2015-11-01T17:01:43.470" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a mere two months of owning a motorcycle, it's already winter and I'd like to know how best to prepare for the inevitable ice/snow/cold.  Other than basic cleaning and lubrication, are any other parts at risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to my inexperience I may decide to put the bike in storage if conditions get too poor, should I do anything before/after storage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12996" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T19:43:47.123" Title="Winter is here, what measures should be taken to protect a motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22221" CreationDate="2015-11-01T17:07:50.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any exposed metal will be prone to oxidisation, especially if the people in charge of roads salt them in winter. ACF50 after a good wash should help protect it. Other products from wd40 and scottoiler are available but ACF50 seems to get the best reviews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinse the bike down after a wet ride or after riding on freshly salted roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has a plastic tank drain it before laying it up, if its steel, it may be better to fill it right up to inhibit rusting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also put it up on front and rear paddock stands to stop the tyres deforming and then hook up a battery tender to keep the battery in good shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally i take the opportunity each winter to do an oil and brake/clutch fluid change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T19:43:47.123" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T19:43:47.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T17:10:02.310" Score="2" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my thermostat replaced due to hearing bubbling in my coolant tank once I turn the car off I also noticed on the opposite side other coolant tank there was leaking on the ground not a lot but it was I thought maybe it was oil cuz it was over there by the oil side but I'm not too sure about that but it was fluid. I had no problems for about a week. I noticed as I park my vehicle I once again heard the bubbling sound as I begin my destination from the grocery store I drove home and kept my eye on the temperature gauge which went halfway and continue to stay a half way until I got home which was 30 to 45 minutes later once I was got home once again I hear the bubbling sound. Any suggestions? ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12997" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T20:11:51.613" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T20:53:21.903" Title="2000 Chrysler LHS coolant tank is giving off a bubbling sound when I park the car." Tags="|coolant|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22223" CreationDate="2015-11-01T17:52:35.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbling like this can be caused by a leak in the cylinder head gasket from one of the cylinders to the water jacket.  Since your water temperature is normal it is clearly not an overheating problem.  It is possible for a garage to use there exhaust gas analyser to sniff the coolant reservoir for exhaust gasses to diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T17:52:35.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22226" CreationDate="2015-11-01T18:42:21.317" Score="2" ViewCount="16679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Duralast 130W inverter and it says 260 peak watts and it plugs into the 12V cigarette lighter. I want to charge my HP laptop with it. Is it bad for the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:22:15.110" Title="Are inverters bad for your car?" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22225" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:32:53.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 12V socket is designed to deliver 12V, at a current described in your car manual. Most of my 12V sockets in the car can deliver up to 5A apparently (haven't tested this though, but I run a 200W invertor when I go car-camping. It is handy for everything)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst that can happen is if your invertor tries to draw more than the 12V socket is fused for - in which case the fuse for it will blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as @Paulster pointed out in comment, you could drain your battery without realising it if you use the inverter with the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T21:36:30.277" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T21:36:30.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22218" CreationDate="2015-11-01T19:50:52.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, garages always tighten wheelnuts so much that you have a major challenge getting them undone if you have a puncture. While they shouldn't do this, it obviously gets them in less trouble than it would if your wheel fell off, so they will continue to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using excessive force on a short bar will damage your wheel nuts. Force will not undo them. Torque does. A nice long bar like in your photo will apply more torque with less force. I would put my other hand on the nut though, to balance the force applied to the bar, and ensure as much as possible that only torque is applied to the wheel nut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not realistic to carry an impact wrench in your car to fix a puncture. It's also not realistic to unscrew a wheel with the crappy spanner supplied in the car manufacturer's toolkit. They're normally so short they need to be jumped up and down on to have any hope of moving anything, which guarantees breakage of something (usually of the spanner.) So carry a nice long bar to be able to apply torque to your wheelnuts at the roadside when you have that puncture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinion is divided on whether it's a good idea to put a tube over the end of a bar to give more leverage. I say, if you haven't got anything better, it will do (it worked for me when I got a puncture 3 miles from the nearest tarmac road.) The worst that can happen is you break the fastener, but if it's not coming off you have little to lose (especially if you've had security wheelnuts fitted and have the old non-secure ones in your car.) Don't attempt it with a ratchet wrench though. The ratchet will be the first thing to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: wheelnuts are invariably done up too tight. They shouldn't be but they are. Impact wrench should get them undone, but long bar is better than short bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="11767" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T20:31:20.340" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T20:31:20.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:26:36.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curtain tension rods, the ones that go on the inside of the window frame. I got a &quot;thicker&quot; one ($4+ walmart) for between the front and back seats and a &quot;thinner&quot; one ($2+ walmart) for between the clothes holders in the back. I needed more clearance and pool noodles were out of season, so I used plumbing insulation noodles (12 ft for $2+ walmart). I don't claim to be an expert, but it was a quick and cheap fix for my '98 Buick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12998" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:47:15.220" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:47:15.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22189" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:57:08.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the thermostat regulates the temperature of water/coolant in an engine. When you first start the car it should be closed, essentially blocking the water/coolant from traversing the radiator thus allowing the engine to reach its optimum temperature as quickly as possible. Of course, everybody knows that an overheating engine is bad news but most people probably don't realise that engines HATE the cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mainly to do with lubrication. If you think about it, there's a massive amount of friction involved in an internal combustion engine. Without a lubricant, an engine quickly becomes a system of fast moving metal components grinding and seizing up against each other that will actually destroy itself quite rapidly from the inside out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway; back to the thermostat. The faster the engine heats up, the faster the oil thins out and gets distributed throughout the block etc. and so on to protect all the moving parts. Now everything is running smoothly but the temperature continues to rise. As the engine begins to exceed its ideal operating temperature, a substance inside the thermostat expands in such a way that the device (and thus a pathway) is forced open, unblocking the radiator and allowing the water to flow &amp;amp; circulate, ultimately bringing the temperature back down to that sweet spot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermostat continues to expand and contract dynamically in such a fashion, relative to the fluctuating changes in temperature, so as to maintain balance or equilibrium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all things, thermostats have the potential for failure, particularly with age they can seize up. If it seizes while it's too hot, it stays jammed open. If this is the case, it's pretty much the equivalent of removing the thermostat completely. It will be safe from overheating, but it will take longer to warm up etc. as we covered earlier. Of course, if it seizes whilst cold, it will stay closed and the cooling system will remain obstructed, causing the engine to overheat quite quickly. Either way, it is best to replace the thermostat ASAP in such cases, or even better; in advance as a preventative measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T04:17:26.637" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:17:26.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2194" CreationDate="2015-11-02T00:51:50.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loose/slipping belt could also cause the light to flicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13002" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T00:51:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22225" CreationDate="2015-11-02T04:02:42.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  130 watts at 12 Volts will draw 10-11 Amps of current.  My ciggy lighter (Auto power socket) was rated for 10A of draw and has a 10 Amp slowblow fuse in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the load you might have problems if you run something inductive like a motor, rather than a capacitive load like a laptop.&#xA;Items like blenders, circular saws, and so on are not good for an inverter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric kettles and toasters are also a bad idea, mostly because of the load they pull (1000-3500 watts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your wiring and fuse are 10A or higher and the devices are appropriate, you'll be fine.   If the fuse goes, the socket will be dead.  If your wiring is substandard then it could melt and short the car's battery, but this could happen with any big load.  Don't just replace the fuse with a higher-rated one if it does blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others point out the risk of a flat battery, but also be aware that over-discharging a Lead Acid battery can make it sad.  A 12V car battery should never be discharged below 10.5V, so set your car motor idling if you're using the inverter for a long time, or use batteries that are already old and cranky.  12V 7AH alarm batteries cost around $30 each and can work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T04:02:42.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22236" CreationDate="2015-11-02T04:08:16.187" Score="1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the make/model matters here, but just in case, I own a 2009 GMC Acadia.  My driver-side, low-beam headlight went out yesterday.  I bought a replacement H11 bulb and began replacing the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once I got in there, I realized that the small, grey, headlight connector was broken; the part that a headlight bulb normally connects to.  Does anyone know if that is a standard, run-of-the-mill part that I can purchase... Or, better yet, do you think that a typical shop can replace this part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly hoping this isn't a super-specific, dealer-only type of repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="569" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T22:26:58.277" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T14:52:07.460" Title="I need to replace the female part that a headlight bulb fits into" Tags="|headlight|replace|gmc|connector|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22254" CreationDate="2015-11-02T07:00:05.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is 2012 Skoda Octavia 1.4 TSI DSG7. When slow turns (i.e. u turns), car starts to shake like it is about to stall. The rpm is low but stable, engine sounds under-rpm, tiny vibration on steering wheel and all effects are intensified if you push the throttle more and more. So is it transmission/clutch problem, front group of steering/suspension unit or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T01:25:00.407" Title="Near stalling shake at slow turns" Tags="|transmission|stall|skoda|octavia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22234" CreationDate="2015-11-02T08:13:01.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;H11 Bulb connectors are readily available from Ebay sellers, but will no doubt be available from an automotive shop.  They usually come with short wires fitted, so you will need some way of connecting it to you existing wires after chopping off the old connector.  The best way of doing this is soldering and heat shrinking some insulation.  An alternative to soldering would be using some crimp connectors.  As a last resort, you could use 'chocolate block' style connectors and use insulation tape to insulate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T08:18:24.690" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T08:18:24.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22234" CreationDate="2015-11-02T12:37:58.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part should be available at any automotive shop.  Alternately, you can check junkyards.  Be sure to cut the wires at about 6&quot; to give you wires to connect to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T12:37:58.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22114" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:36:52.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not at all. The turbo doesn't know whether it's a diesel or petrol turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just bear in mind that if you want to put a turbo on your car without doing lots of other modifications to your engine, you can't use much more boost than about 0.6 bar (I think that's about 8-10psi, but I could be wrong). The power gains would be minimal and you'd still need to have the car's software updated. At minimum I would suggest using a thicker head gasket to decrease the compression ratio ever so slightly to help avoid detonation. Then there's the matter of boost pipes, exhausts and intercoolers. It gets very expensive very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, it would be better to acquire a secondhand Mini Cooper S supercharger (the older models were supercharged, not turbocharged) and have that installed. The installation is simpler and cheaper and will probably suit the car batter too. Superchargers don't require modifications to the exhaust, can run without an intercooler in low-boost scenarios and require less custom manifold work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T13:36:52.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T14:09:24.203" Score="4" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have a 96 Nissan Sentra with 1.6l. I had the car for a very long time and did at least 3 brake jobs on it. Every time i would change the pads and rotors I would try using ceramic brake pads. According to several catalogs, that's what the car came with. Every time the ceramic pads were installed the car refused to stop. The feeling was like both front calipers were locked up. Excessive brake pedal effort was required to stop the car and the front rotors would get very hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I would change the ceramic pads out for semi-metallics and just like magic the car stopped normally. I tried 3 different brands of ceramic pads and all acted the same way. I have used these same brands on other cars with no issues. New rotors were installed every time. The last set of pads was driven with for over a week just to eliminate any possible bedding issues. Everything was clean and well lubricated in both the front and back brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would cause a car not to like ceramic pads? Has anyone seen similar issues with their cars?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't have the car anymore - I'm asking just out of sheer curiosity) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:47:19.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T00:47:19.707" Title="Car doesn't like ceramic brake pads" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22235" CreationDate="2015-11-02T14:32:50.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the symptoms, I think the power steering belt will be slipping under the load at low engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T14:32:50.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T16:08:36.247" Score="3" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed my Kia Carens tire size&#xA;My original car Kia Carens tire size was 225/45 R17 (total Diameter 25&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the front tires to 225/50 R17 (total Diameter 25.9&quot;) Difference 3.6%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then changed the back tires to 245/45 R17 (total Diameter 25.7&quot;) Difference 2.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the change is above 3% but is it risky, and shall I change it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13013" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T16:36:05.933" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T21:18:32.603" Title="I have changed my Kia Carens tire size" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:28:06.410" Score="1" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Audi Quattro with 29000 miles on the tires.  One has developed a bubble and tire shop said I need to replace all 4 because of 4 wheel drive could damage differential.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13015" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:03:50.877" Title="tire bubble on audi" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-11-02T20:58:10.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22246" CreationDate="2015-11-02T18:31:19.460" Score="5" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '09 Honda Fit. It's a manual transmission. I bought it in the summer of 2013 and there are no warranties left on it. Other than regular oil changes, tire rotations, and having the battery replaced two weeks ago, I haven't had to do anything to this car since I bought it. I bought it &quot;Honda Pre-Owned Certified&quot; from a Honda dealer so it met their standards for certification. What are some things I can do at home to check the safety on it for winter driving (in a very wet and snowy area)? For context here, I'm a young-ish woman with a toddler and don't know a whole lot about cars. But I don't want to be told I need unnecessary work from a mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13014" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:11:20.097" Title="How to conduct an at-home winter safety check?" Tags="|safety|winter|inspection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22243" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:02:51.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an Audi mechanic, so I can't say for sure that you could harm &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; car over the next 20K miles with the imbalanced tires, but this is the foundation for the warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differential is designed to allow the wheels to spin at different speeds when cornering, and also designed to (along with other systems) detect when one wheel is losing grip (spinning at a different rate) so power can be transferred to other wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal operation assumes that all wheels are the exact same size and spinning at the same rate. When you put one new tire on a car with three worn tires, it will put extra work on the differential.  The new tire will be rotating slower than the others because it will have a larger circumference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires with 29,000 miles are probably more than half gone in terms of wear.  If it was 10,000 miles, the size difference might be negligible, but with well worn tires, it's probably a valid warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please comment if you know how severe the situation is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:02:51.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22244" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:11:20.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://newsroom.aaa.com/2010/09/2010-winter-driving/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link&lt;/a&gt; to a checklist you can follow. Depending on how detailed you want to go at home, I think the main points for you to check are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire type and tread.&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure that you have all-season tires (most are) and that the tread is at least 3/32 of an inch deep. Obviously, you don't want to be pushing this limit during the winter, so think about changing them if they are close. This is very important for traction on snow an ice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire pressure.&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure that your tires are aired up to the level indicated on the door jam. Check the levels often. This also helps your traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery.&lt;/strong&gt; Batteries can have troubles in colder weather, so it's important this this is in top condition for winter. If you have a multimeter, you can check it at home. Otherwise, go to your local auto parts store, which should be able to check it. The voltage should be around 12.6V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coolant levels.&lt;/strong&gt; Refer to your owner's manual for proper filling procedures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:11:20.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22243" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:49:43.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car has limited slip diffs, the constant slight difference in wheel speed can cause wear of the friction plates, fairly quickly wearing them out.  If the diffs are normal open diffs, this is not quite so important, but if you look at how the planetary gears work in a differential, you will see that the difference in wheel size will cause some of the gears that normally only turn when going around corners to be turning slowly all the time, which will add a little wear.  As I said before, this is much more important for limited slip diffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T20:03:50.877" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:03:50.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22242" CreationDate="2015-11-02T21:05:37.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have enough clearance, meaning the tires don't come to contact with body panels, etc, you should be fine. No need to change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing the size change will affect is your odometer and speedometer reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out exactly how much it would change use this website: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a calculator where you can put your model/make and tire sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to calibrate the speed to match your tire size, there are after market devices that let you do that. But these are not easy to install. You have to tap the wire of the speed sensor. Here is one example of such a device. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=238/prd238.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=238/prd238.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about speeding tickets, use a GPS. GPS speed is almost as accurate if not better than your speedometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: One more thing to keep in mind is that, if you car is AWD, then you have to be very careful about having different size tires in front and back. This can create premature wear on your AWD system. This does not apply to OP's car I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T21:18:32.603" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T21:18:32.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22240" CreationDate="2015-11-02T22:21:49.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been my experience that ceramic brake pads will require a bit of break-in (and I'm not talking about the &lt;em&gt;bedding in&lt;/em&gt; process here) for them to work optimally. I don't know whether they require curing time or if this is just the way they are. Almost every time I've used ceramic pads, they will heat up quite extensively at first causing them to actually create smoke (I believe this is the paint burning off). Once this break-in period is over (after you bed them and they are totally cooled off), there are no more issues with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, I don't have any hard empirical data on this, nor references, just a bit of practical experience. The first time I saw the brakes smoke after the installation I was quite worried. Then, once they cooled down, no more issues of any type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T22:21:49.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8520" CreationDate="2015-11-03T00:22:27.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the edge of the screw driver on the metal circle part and give it a pop with your hand and it should slide the whole front face bracket off! This image helps people who dont quite understand how to get that cover to slide off without prying or messing it up.  The screw driver is pictured where it should be and you just use the palm of your hand to pop it off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yk3o5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yk3o5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13020" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T01:20:33.150" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T01:20:33.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22235" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:25:00.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are turning the wheel all the way (left or right) until it stops, this is called cramping the steering. What happens is, when you get it all the way over to one side and hold it there, the rack and pinion is telling the hydraulic fluid to continue to push the steering over to that side, but the steering mechanism cannot do it because it cannot go any further. This sends pressure waves back through the hydraulic system which causes the pump to stall momentarily. When this happens, the pump slows the engine down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counter this ... don't cramp your steering. Run steering wheel right &lt;em&gt;up to&lt;/em&gt; the end of where it can turn the wheels and don't go any further. You will not get the wheels to turn in that direction any further anyway, so you are causing yourself an issue which doesn't need to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T01:25:00.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22257" CreationDate="2015-11-03T07:10:55.757" Score="0" ViewCount="15958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a &quot;bad&quot; starter can drain battery, but am unsure what constitutes &quot;bad enough&quot; to allow a starter to drain the battery. Suppose a hypothetical coolant leak has corroded one's starter. Would that cause a drain on the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T01:13:42.053" Title="Does a corroded starter drain battery?" Tags="|battery|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22256" CreationDate="2015-11-03T08:13:59.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'bad' starter wont drain the battery while it is not being used to start the car, if that is what you mean.  If the starter has a damaged commutator, it will not run at full power and so could mean that you have to turn the engine over longer to get the engine to start which will use more energy from the battery.  Even if coolant is leaking on the starter, unless the starter is running there will be no electricity near the starter, so the water will not cause a short. The outward appearance of the starter should not be used to judge its internal condition.  I would be surprised if you starter is draining your battery.  If the starter starts the engine well, then it is more than likely not causing your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T08:13:59.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22279" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:10:02.513" Score="3" ViewCount="7933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck with a basic electric problem, on my honda cb500. The rear light bulb is a twin-filament for position/brake, 12v 5/21w. It's brand new and tested. The battery has 11.9v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the rear light connector, without the light bulb, I get 12v on the brake light wire, but as soon as I put the bulb in, it does not light up, and the voltage drops to 0.00v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position light works nice, without any voltage drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any clue on what could be happening, and testing the whole wire harness would take a lot of time, so I'm looking for any suggestion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7628" LastEditorUserId="7628" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T10:27:34.317" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T04:01:32.970" Title="Brake light connector drops to 0v when bulb is in, 12v without bulb" Tags="|electrical|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22261" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:32:33.297" Score="3" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure if this is the best Stack for my question but I will try. So from some time I noticed that in my car when engine is turned off there is still quite huge power consumption which causes after 3-4 days I cannot start the engine. After some measurements I noticed that radio consumes too much power after I turn off engine. What is more this radio (blaupunkt) is damaged and it doesn't insert the cd and by this problem the message &quot;Note: CD error&quot; pops out on the screen from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now my question: is it possible that this &quot;cd error&quot; problem can cause some variations in my radio while engine is turned off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because I would like to know if there is something I can do before I decide to give it to some specialists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;So today I did measure it again. Firstly it showed again 0.8A then we decided to turn off radio with its button. When we hit the button the value 0.16A was shown. So we were thinking what is still consuming power. After that we decided that we will wait half an hour and then probably it will go into sleep mode. What is funny, when we came back after half hour the value 0.64A was shown! Simple math and we got 0.8 - 0.16 = 0.64! Somehow when the car went into sleep mode the radio started to consume power. Now I am sure that only radio is someway broken so during the week I will go visit some specialist so they can repair the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13025" LastEditorUserId="13025" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T15:22:42.110" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T15:22:42.110" Title="Mondeo MK3 power consumption and damaged radio" Tags="|power|mondeo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22259" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:46:28.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would disconnect the stereo by removing the connectors from the back of it and see if the problem goes.  If that fixes it, just get another stereo from a breakers yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T09:46:28.340" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22259" CreationDate="2015-11-03T10:01:33.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your clarification in the comments, pulling the radio fuse drops the current draw from 0.80 A to 0.18 A before the car enters sleep mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to check if there is another fuse that drops the current draw further &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the car goes into sleep mode. That should help you determine if there is something else that is drawing current unexpectedly (a circuit that is closed when it really should be open).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other, more time-consuming, option is to actually inspect the car wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T08:03:45.593" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:03:45.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T12:23:52.907" Score="4" ViewCount="8655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing a problem in first and 2nd gear in my VW Polo diesel car. I am unable to move car in these gears, I tried it so many times. So for the time being I used 3rd gear to move the car &amp;amp; after that 4th, 5th continue working, but when I reached home after 5-6 kms, there I found some smell of burning thing. I think it's clutch plates' outer edge or another thing. I have no indication &amp;amp; markup in the speedometer screen. What is the cause? Does it damage clutch plates?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T23:48:03.560" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T17:55:14.180" Title="Unable to move in first and second gear in VW Polo" Tags="|transmission|vw|clutch|polo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22262" CreationDate="2015-11-03T13:33:40.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to physically select first or second gear then it is likely that your clutch is worn to excess.  You may also find that flooring the gas pedal when moving causes the engine note and revs to rise without any appreciable increase in speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the year of your car, it may be that the hydraulic actuator for the clutch is simply low on fluid but it does sound more likely that your car needs a new clutch pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T13:33:40.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22262" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:30:30.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that you can't select 1st and 2nd because the gear selector linkages are worn.  I doubt it is the clutch slipping because you would find it difficult to pull away in 3rd with a slipping clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is probably due to you riding the clutch so much trying to pull away in 3rd.  If the clutch isn't already slipping, it probably will be soon if you keep doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is plenty of info on the internet, including on youtube about replacing worn selector linkages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T08:16:22.000" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:16:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22259" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:37:53.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the radio disconnected (either fuse(s) or prefereably connectors pulled) it's worth waiting some time to see if the current does drop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the courtesy (dome) light come on when you turn the engine off?  It doesn't in my Transit of a similar age which uses many of the same components in relevant systems. In particular the central locking module is common to most Fords of a similar age and is responsible for the interior lighting as well (IIRC, I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams for a couple of years).  I reckon if you disconnnect the central locking module as well as the radio your current draw will drop much further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're drawing 0.18A a fuly charged battery should still be able to start the engine after several days, but it should do better than that.  I suggest that a problem with the radio is a major factor, but that your battery isn't up to much any more -- is it the original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test with the radio disconnected.  At the very least you should get more than double the time before the battery flattens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the current drawn after an hour or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider replacing the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T14:37:53.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22234" CreationDate="2015-11-03T14:52:07.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes any autoparts store should carry what you are looking for.I had the same thing happen to me and I got the replacement piece at Autozone for 7.99.Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13029" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T14:52:07.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4181" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:24:22.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;GM has a recall on your 2010 HHR.Take it to your local GM dealership and they will replace your key switch,keys,and reprogram your keys at no charge to you.Hope this help.You can goggle the recall and you can read up on the recall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13029" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T15:24:22.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22295" CreationDate="2015-11-03T15:29:32.840" Score="8" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had planned to put on my winter tires this weekend and noticed that one tire had some gashes in the sidewall. Should I mount them or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third picture, is the worst IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They still have a few seasons left on them. Financially, if they could be kept on the car, it would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I wonder why I'm posting here as I think I should just buy two new tires to replace this one :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzdKv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzdKv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YmeZD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YmeZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PweFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PweFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7544" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:18:55.100" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:18:55.100" Title="Sidewall has gashes, should I replace?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22288" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:24:56.867" Score="0" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night the CEL came on, and I got the codes read on the way home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0122&lt;/strong&gt;: Throttle Position sensor &quot;A&quot; circuit low voltage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0139&lt;/strong&gt;: Secondary HO2S12 (heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2) circuit slow response&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0420&lt;/strong&gt;: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1456&lt;/strong&gt;: EVAP emission ctrl sys leak detected (fuel tank system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then this morning the battery was very low and door locks barely worked. Checked voltage at the battery terminals and only got 8-9v. This makes me suspect that there is an electrical problem, possibly a bad alternator or battery. I'll check the age of the battery later and update this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the obvious stuff (the gas cap was on) but can also check the throttle sensor once I get a jump start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accidentally let the battery go flat about a month ago after leaving the lights on too long working in the dark. Lights got dim and car needed jumping. Could it just be a weak/old battery causing all this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T21:08:08.527" Title="2002 Honda CRV Suddenly Throwing Multiple Codes and then a Dead Battery" Tags="|honda|battery|cel|o2-sensor|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T16:31:49.687" Score="5" ViewCount="22686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 01 Ford F 150 with 320K miles. I love this truck and don't plan on ever selling it. I thought the bearings were going out in the back right side so I took it to mechanic. Two different mechanics say the rear end needs to be rebuilt or replaced. One says if I'm going to keep it I should rebuild it. Second says I should replace it with a used one (rebuilt never works). They can both do either and are about the same price. Rebuilt has a warranty but used one will have warranty for only 45 days. One can tell me the used one has 130k miles on it the other doesn't know because its already pulled. What is recommended rebuilt or replaced??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13033" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T11:57:26.843" Title="Rear end Differential - rebuild or replace with used?" Tags="|ford|repair|differential|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22282" CreationDate="2015-11-03T17:55:16.823" Score="3" ViewCount="22712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr: Car is having trouble starting, and I'm wondering how to determine if it's the alternator or the starter. I don't experience the longer turn over times of a typical starter malfunction, but I also don't see the dimming lights or no engine rpm of a bad alternator, even after a week's use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background info&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;My car had trouble starting ~8 days ago our timeline starts there &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mon, day 1:&lt;/strong&gt; The engine tried to turn over once then refused to try again. First time car has ever had trouble starting. Headlights still worked, so did radio and other electrical doodads. Seemed to start a little slower after work, but in the coming days...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T-F, days 2-5:&lt;/strong&gt; No difficulty starting or driving. My work is ~30 minutes away and I take the interstate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sat, day 6:&lt;/strong&gt; I had trouble starting it late at night and needed to jump it. Same style of thing as on day 1. It had been sitting since Friday afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sun, day 7:&lt;/strong&gt; Car sat for the whole day&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mon, day 8:&lt;/strong&gt; Trouble starting same as before. Advance ran their electrical diagnostic and did not think it was an alternator or battery problem, though they noted the battery needed charging even though I drove ~30 minutes to get there. &lt;strong&gt;Advance seemed to think it was the starter because of low cranking amps, even though the battery drains while the car is off.&lt;/strong&gt; I had them fully charge the battery. I also ran the car for a bit at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tues, day 9:&lt;/strong&gt; No difficulty starting, but now check engine light is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hesitant to think it was a starter problem, since I've never experienced longer turn over times, but also doubt an alternator issue because I was able to run the car for so long after the first jump, and it seems to start well if I just drive it regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the situation I've described more indicative of a bad alternator or bad starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="13024" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T18:04:22.883" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T05:14:28.213" Title="Does intermittent starting difficulty indicate alternator or starter?" Tags="|battery|alternator|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:10:16.820" Score="10" ViewCount="182856" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter had a friend tow her 1996 chevy (automatic transmission) SLOWLY, without engine running and while in &quot;N&quot;, probably for 7 or 8 miles. Do you think she has damaged the transmission? The car overheated due to a leaking heater hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13036" LastEditorUserId="53629" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T12:54:52.733" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T12:54:52.733" Title="Can a car with automatic transmission be damaged by being towed in neutral with the engine not running?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|towing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22274" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:34:31.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address your question directly, I'd say neither - I would suspect the alternator. If your alternator is faulty, it would not provide enough 'juice' to power your spark plugs while driving, which would drain the battery and make it more difficult to start the car. A faulty alternator is typically intermittent, which would explain the intermittent issue you've described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that, and assuming the battery and starter are indeed fine, I would next check the spark plugs and finally fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T18:34:31.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22275" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:53:55.057" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most owner's manuals state that the vehicle should not be towed with the drive wheels on the ground for longer than &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; miles or faster than &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; MPH. The reason for this is that Neutral only disengages the engine from the transmission, but not the transmission from the wheels. As the drive wheels turn, the transmission turns. This can heat up the transmission, which is not being cooled because the engine is not on or engaged, so the transmission fluid pump might not be cooling the transmission. The transmission is not getting proper lubrication for similar reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/manuals/&quot;&gt;2004 Chrysler Sebring owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Flat bed towing is the preferred towing method. If a flat&#xA;  bed towing vehicle is not available, a wheel lift towing&#xA;  vehicle may be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rear towing is not recommended with the front wheels&#xA;  on the ground, as transaxle damage can result. If rear&#xA;  towing is the only alternative, a front end dolly must be&#xA;  used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also states that, if you must tow it with the drive wheels on the ground:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Automatic Transaxle - Your vehicle may be towed under the following conditions:&#xA;  The gear selector must be in NEUTRAL, the&#xA;  distance to be towed must not exceed 15 miles (25 km),&#xA;  and the towing speed must not exceed 25 mph (40&#xA;  km/h). If the transaxle is not operative, or if the vehicle&#xA;  is to be towed more than 15 miles (25 km), the vehicle&#xA;  must be towed with the front wheels off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Manual Transaxle - If your vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle, it&#xA;  may be towed at any legal highway speed, for any&#xA;  distance, if the transaxle is in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you towed it for only 7 or 8 miles at a speed lower than 25 MPH, you are probably safe. You certainly want to keep such towing to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T18:58:59.070" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T18:58:59.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22258" CreationDate="2015-11-03T19:22:01.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you are testing the brake bulb voltage with the brakes actuated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is high resistance somewhere in the circuit causing a voltage drop. For example lets suppose there is 10k ohm of resistance in the brake light switch. When the bulb is out and the switch is activated there is no current flow. A good meter has 20M ohm of resistance and won't load the circuit compared to the 10k. This is how you can see 12v. When you install the light bulb which is around 12 ohms, it loads the circuit. When the circuit is loaded there is current flow and the 10k drops all the voltage. This is why the voltage drops to zero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try and find the high resistance, activate the brake switch, install the light bulb and check the voltage in strategic locations starting from the bulb and working your way back to the brake switch and finally the fuse. When you find that the voltage switches from ground to 12v the length between the two measurements is the problem spot. Explore it, looking for broken wires and corrosion in connectors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T19:22:01.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19381" CreationDate="2015-11-03T19:39:51.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I would buy the HF trailer with the 12&quot; wheels, put a deck of 3/4 ply on it, bolt a front wheel chock to it, screw down some rear wheel blocks, strap it tight and pull the trailer. Total cost about $400 and you can sell the trailer for at least $300 at the other end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done just that with my much heavier R1100GS and it did PA &amp;lt;-&gt; FL a couple of times just fine and often at speeds much better than 55 MPH. A KLR won't weigh as much and you can easily pull both with a TDI. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; sell the trailer when you get there, but you won't want to. Buy an 8' 2x12 when you get the plywood to make an on-off ramp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep the tires pumped up to 45-50 psi and check the wheel bearing end play every day or two when traveling. Also add lots of extra bearing grease when assembling the trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T19:39:51.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22274" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:28:50.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would blame the battery.  A weak battery can hide that it is at fault as long as the engine starts quickly.  The capacity of the battery could be getting lower and lower over a long time, but you wouldn't know because the engine starts and then the alternator takes over.  However you start to reach a point where the battery starts to struggle to start the engine due to low capacity.  Sometimes the engine will start immediately, then other times it just talks a little longer to start, but the battery isn't able to supply the power, then you are in the situation you are in now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is start the engine, turn on the lights and the heated rear screen then check the battery voltage.  If it is 13-14 volts, then the alternator is fine.  Then get a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T20:28:50.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22273" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:33:24.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the price is the same go with the rebuilt.  Better warranty and more knowledge.  With the used one you dont know its history to this point and it may be 6 months away from needing a rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12543" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T20:33:24.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:36:51.887" Score="2" ViewCount="7166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read certain vehicles may begin flashing their check engine light if one bridges the diagnostic plug correctly with some wire before starting the vehicle. How does one do this for a Pontiac G6? I've attached a diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKvlO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKvlO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;obd2 plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="13024" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T22:03:48.550" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T17:43:57.707" Title="Read error codes without scanner on Pontiac G6" Tags="|obd-ii|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:43:25.440" Score="4" ViewCount="4875" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 3 summers in a row I have observed that my ABS light in the dashboard turns on during hot summer days. It gets in this sticky state where it does not turn off automatically on its own. Though sometimes turning off engine and starting it again seems to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the last 3 winters I have never observed this ABS light glitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes me think it has to do something with the temperature. What could explain this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am living in California where roads don't get slippery. The only obvious difference between winter and summer to me seems to be temperature. Also when the light turns on I don't feel break pedal pumping so ABS probably is not kicking in. The car is 2007 Chevrolet Aveo with FWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="10859" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T02:35:27.597" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T13:03:20.363" Title="ABS (Anti-lock Breaking System) light turns on in hot weather?" Tags="|chevrolet|abs|aveo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22284" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:47:16.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/1404-how-to-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-breaking-the-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; points out, the ability to blink codes was available with older OBD-I vehicles.  Once the OBD-II standard hit, the ability to &quot;blink&quot; out codes was lost.  This changeover to ODB-II happened in 1996 for vehicles sold in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the same is true for Volkswagen cars.  Early models had the ability to blink out the codes when something was jumped, but modern cars needed a special reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bit is conjecture on my part, but I think the reason is that OBD-II is much more complex so the simple blinking was just abandoned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T21:07:13.533" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T21:07:13.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22272" CreationDate="2015-11-03T20:59:27.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start the engine and turn on the head lights and rear screen heater then check the battery voltage, it should be 13-14 volts.  If it is less than 13 volts, then your alternator is faulty.  If the CEL came on while starting the engine it could be the low battery voltage that confused the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that something is drawing power from the battery when the ignition is off, which is flattening the battery, or the battery may just need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead acid batteries don't like being totally discharged, so your incident a month ago could sentenced your battery to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T20:59:27.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22259" CreationDate="2015-11-03T22:09:59.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue that turned out to be a shorted light bulb.  It was one of the small running lights on the front sides of the car.  I kept blowing a fuse every 20 minutes or so and so had no headlights.  Putting in a larger fuse meant that I could drive a few minutes longer before I lost my headlights. I only found the problem because I noticed that one of the small lights was out.  When I removed the &quot;dead&quot; bulb, the short went away and I stopped blowing fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13041" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T22:09:59.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T22:54:49.290" Score="5" ViewCount="18663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday my 2005 Honda Accord was running at a low idle when cold and stalling out when warm. Today I resolved the issue but I'm not sure what exactly I did that resolved it or what the original cause was. I'm looking for advice on what the cause could have been and what else I should investigate to prevent the issue from occurring again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At cold start engine was idling very low, around 500.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once vehicle was at temperature the idle would drop further and the vehicle would stall out if I didn't keep the idle up w/ the accelerator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No check engine light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting steps performed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected poor air-flow. I removed and inspected the air filter. Air filter was fine. Started car with air intake open (air filter removed) and no change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected poor battery or poor battery connection. I disconnected the battery, cleaned and lubricated the terminals, topped off battery with water, reconnected. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected bad Mass Airflow Sensor. Disconnected MAF electrical, restarted motor. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected engine controller needed reset. Disconnected battery, reconnected, held motor at 3000RPM for a minute. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected bad gas / water in gas tank. Added 1 gal fresh fuel. Fuel gauge at 1/4. Added 1/4 bottle methyl alcohol fuel dryer (HEET). Ran motor at 3000 RPM for a minute. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let vehicle sit overnight. Tested vehicle the next morning, 3000 RPM, no change in behavior. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected coolant system might have air in it (and this would be impeding operation of the Idle Air Control Valve IACV?). I removed the cap to the coolant reservoir and lifted the tube so I could observe coolant overflowing into the reservoir. I turned off the cabin fan and moved the heat to high, started the engine and held the idle at 2000 until the engine was warm. The coolant reservoir was just under MAX when the engine was warm. No change in behavior; engine still stalled when warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected stuck IACV. At the advice of Eric The Car Guy (see below) tapped IACV with back of screw driver while revving engine. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Disconnected TPS electrical, restarted engine. Idle was fine! Check engine light now on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shut engine off, reconnected TPS, restarted engine. Idle was fine. Check engine light still on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took car to gas station, filled it with gas, on the way back check engine light went off. Low idle is still rough and acceleration is a little hesitant but it no longer stalls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate suggestions on what the cause could have been and what (if anything) I should look at next. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ericthecarguy.com/fuel-and-emissions/952-how-to-solve-honda-idle-problems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ericthecarguy.com/fuel-and-emissions/952-how-to-solve-honda-idle-problems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Never found root cause of this issue, but now I have a new one. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24145/2005-honda-accord-4cyl-revving-idle-when-warm&quot;&gt;2005 Honda Accord 4cyl revving idle when warm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T16:38:17.360" Title="2005 Honda Accord 4cyl low idle and stalling when warm" Tags="|honda|accord|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22273" CreationDate="2015-11-04T00:05:29.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to buy a differential bearing and seal kit for the rear end yourself and have a knowledgeable mechanic install it for you. This, as the name implies, consists of bearings and seals. A master kit will have the shims in it as well, but when you are just doing bearings in the diff, you can usually put the old shims back in to get everything back to right. You'll want bearings such as Timken or Standard Gear which have great reputations. The reason this is my suggestion is, if you buy these parts, you know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what has gone into the diff. If you rely on the mechanic to get you the parts, they &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; get the cheapest thing they can get away with. These parts will last long enough for their warranty period, but you wouldn't want to trust them much longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@JasonJanowitz is right in that getting a used one is a crap shoot. It could be 6-months or two days away from needing a rebuild ... you just don't know. Getting &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; rear end rebuilt gets you back to exactly where your truck needs to be. There's no guess work. Just because you have 320k miles on it doesn't mean any of the hard parts are shot. As long as it hasn't gone dry and it hasn't been over worked, they are probably fine. If they aren't, getting a new set to put in really isn't all that expensive and shouldn't cost you much more in labor than a rebuild alone would cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need a knowledgeable mechanic to do this. Don't get a mechanic &quot;friend&quot; to do it for you as this is probably one of the easiest things to screw up on a vehicle if you don't know what you're doing. It's not something a mechanic can just &lt;em&gt;wing&lt;/em&gt; and get it right. Most mechanics would get instruction from another knowledgeable mechanic while they are watching to ensure things are right. There is preload in the front bearing which measures in the lb-in realm (meaning, you tighten the front bearing down, then while it's free, you check the preload to the lb-in range ... some mechanics can turn it free hand and tell when the preload is correct.) The steps involved are not something you'll just read in a book or watch in a video and figure out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T00:05:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22269" CreationDate="2015-11-04T00:11:53.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks of it, these are only superficial scores in the rubber on the side wall. If there isn't any threads showing in from the sidewall and they don't leak air, they are probably just fine. If you don't like the idea of them, by all means replace them. I don't think I'd be nervous about driving them from what you've shown us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T00:11:53.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22294" CreationDate="2015-11-04T07:33:56.417" Score="2" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the rotor physically contact the points in a distributor cap and cause them to wear down such that the cap would need replacement at regular intervals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T05:55:30.817" Title="Do Distributor Caps need Regular Replacement?" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22293" CreationDate="2015-11-04T08:27:08.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only physical connection is the center electrode which is usually carbon based.  The other electrodes that connect to the plug leads don't touch the rotor arm, but come very close allowing the spark to jump across the gap without too much loss of power.  Each time the spark jumps, however, a small chemical reaction will take place on the terminals which causes the build up of 'corrosion' or oxidation.  This can be scraped off occasionally but eventually the terminals will be eaten away and the cap will require replacement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As time goes on the gaps get wider and the spark will get slightly weaker at each spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T19:12:15.057" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T19:12:15.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22269" CreationDate="2015-11-04T08:57:34.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on locale, in the UK that tyre is damaged so badly that it would be illegal and if stopped you would accumulate points on your license for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A tyre must not have a cut or tear in excess of 25mm or 10% of the sectional width of the tyre, whichever is the greater, and which is deep enough to reach the ply or cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that third picture you can clearly see the length is greater than 1 inch and that the cord is exposed at the right hand end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:57:34.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:01:29.470" Score="4" ViewCount="86607" Body="&lt;p&gt;When reconnecting a battery, why is it recommended to connect the positive lead first, and the negative lead last? What difference does it make if they are connected in the opposite order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12694" LastEditorUserId="12694" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T14:08:10.287" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T20:05:00.017" Title="When reconnecting a battery, why connect the positive first?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-11-16T21:24:07.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22296" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:11:36.857" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason I would connect the positive cable first (in a negatively-earthed car) is that while tightening the positive connector with a spanner (wrench), if I were to touch the body of the car with the spanner at the same time, nothing would happen and I would be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the negative was already connected to the battery and I shorted the positive to the body with the spanner, there would now be a short circuit with a big spark and a possible fire.  For the same reason I would disconnect the negative connector first too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="1282" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T20:05:00.017" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T20:05:00.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22296" CreationDate="2015-11-04T12:12:19.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;technical functioning&lt;/strong&gt; it does not matter in which order you connect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However &lt;strong&gt;for safety reasons&lt;/strong&gt; it does matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole body of the car is usually connected to the minus pole. And you can accidentally hit that body with the positive lead. So connecting the lead first is safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Negative pole first:&lt;BR&gt;Whole car (except a few parts like the positive pole) are connected. Any mistake with the other lead will lead to a short.  And car batteries are very good&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; at shorts. You really do not want this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Positive pole first:&lt;BR&gt;Only a small part of the car is now connected to power. If you mess up by touching the car with the other lead nothing will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly: This might also be a habits for people who deal with electronics. Ground goes first. Always.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;HR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;: Or very bad. Depending on your point of view and your desire to prevent harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T15:10:32.823" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T15:10:32.823" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15427" CreationDate="2015-11-04T15:49:36.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just so you are aware most clutch assemblies (at the pedal) have a pin with a cotter key holding the clutch cable to the pedal and if you just remove that it will not operate! Also doesn't cost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit of a pain crawling under dash but cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13044" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T15:49:36.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22304" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:16:08.173" Score="6" ViewCount="14903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having some weird problems with my '06 Pontiac G6, and finally broke down and bought a Bosch code scanner to see if the DTCs could tell me anything... they didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scanner has the ability to record stats from the car as it's running, but then you have to review the stats on the tiny, clunky screen. And there's no on-board analysis of what levels are normal, what they might mean, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a computer is the perfect tool to download this recorded data, analyze it for patterns and say things like &quot;Your flux capacitor isn't bad, but it isn't running at peak efficiency.&quot; But Bosch doesn't provide this functionality with their software. You can print the records, which is much easier to peruse than the clunky, 4-button panel, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a car guy. I know what I'm doing. But I'm also a computer guy, and I know there are open-source solutions for almost everything else in the world. &lt;strong&gt;Is there an existing tool for extracting recorded data from scanners like the Bosch 1150? Is there an open API that I can use to code such a thing myself? ;-)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T18:39:35.493" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T16:49:46.203" Title="Any open-source OBD scanner analysis tools?" Tags="|obd-ii|tools|dtc|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22300" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:35:32.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of work going on in this space, so the answer is &quot;Yes, Of course!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a Python project: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdtester.com/pyobd&quot;&gt;http://www.obdtester.com/pyobd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like an interesting way to get data from the car, but doesn't seem to really be about trouble codes or diagnostics: &lt;a href=&quot;http://openxcplatform.com/getting-started/index.html&quot;&gt;http://openxcplatform.com/getting-started/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks very outdated, but maybe &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; good info in there: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geekmyride.org/wiki/index.php/Open_Source_OBD_software&quot;&gt;http://www.geekmyride.org/wiki/index.php/Open_Source_OBD_software&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hasn't been updated in a while, but marked as &quot;Stable&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://obd.codeplex.com/&quot;&gt;https://obd.codeplex.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not open source, but ODB compatible (made for VW/Audi, but basic functionality on all cars), and you can get a &quot;software only&quot; license if you want to make (or buy a generic) cable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T16:35:32.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22185" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:23:25.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though your oils complete the viscosity criteria, i don't advise pouring in diesel engine oil in a petrol engine . The two oils are formulated a bit differently each suiting the need of the engine . A small experiment was carried out , in which petrol engine oil was poured in a diesel swift . From the results it was very clear the oil was not at all suitable for the engine , chances are the same problem will be faced in the opposite condition.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many car companies provide engine oil under their own branding, but they are manufactured by third parties. &#xA;(The oil used in the experiment was branded by suzuki but manufactured by castrol) &#xA;There is no problem in using generic oil as long the quality is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T17:23:25.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22300" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:09:39.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sourceforge has this scantool.net open source application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it on my laptop with a USB to ODBII converter on various vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can google &quot;USB to ODBII&quot; and get multiple hits to procure this cable converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/scantool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LINK&lt;/a&gt; to the software download.  It also comes with source code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T16:49:46.203" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T16:49:46.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22306" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:16:28.577" Score="6" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was younger, I had a bike that I was told was chromed with electrostatic coating, and was very scratch resistant. So, I used a razor blade to scrape the stickers off of the bike. I didn't scratch it, but I couldn't do the same on different parts of the paint (the non-chrome) &#xA;Now, I was wondering if that's the real reason for the scratch resistance, or if it's something else, and if the same type of paint can be used for automotive purposes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there's a more appropriate stack exchange site for this, please move my question &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T06:01:10.423" Title="What are the properties of a car painted using electrostatic coating?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|finish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22305" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:42:28.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the application technique, but the material being applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome plating is a process where actual molecules of chrome metal are attracted to a surface using electrical current.  It covers the surface of the parts with a layer of real metal.  Of course metal is very hard, and will be difficult to scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of paint will be limited to the materials it's made out of.  For instance, brush on house-paint is very weak because it's made of latex.  Typical spray on paints for cars use very strong binders to create a glossy shell of a surface, but they are still limited to the strength of a sturdy plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned &quot;electrostatic&quot;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Powder Coating&lt;/a&gt; is a &quot;painting&quot; process that uses just that.  A fine, dry powder is applied to the metal and it clings in place using an electric charge.  The piece is then baked at high temperature that causes the powder to melt forming a solid glossy surface.  Powder coating is common on bicycles, and gives a thick, strong surface, but it's not as strong as that metal razor blade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strongest &quot;paint&quot; I can think of is glaze that is used on ceramics.  The glaze is brushed on and then fired at very high temperatures that turn the glaze into a shiny, glass finish.  I wonder if there is a way to glaze a car, but I suspect it would be too heavy and too prone to cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T19:42:28.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:44:24.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T19:44:24.270" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T19:44:24.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:44:24.270" Score="0" Body="Czech motor manufacturer since 1895.  In 1994 Volkswagen acquired a controlling interest." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T06:31:52.020" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:31:52.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T19:47:15.763" Score="1" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 cycl. and 8 spark plugs which all the water was gone in the radiator with no leaks to be found...What would cause water to totally evaporate from radiator without any leaks and cause smoke from rear and truck to totally stop.    Ps  this is also a stick shift...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T22:27:29.283" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T22:27:29.283" Title="Empty Radiator with no leaks" Tags="|ford|radiator|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T20:27:04.087" Score="1" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;let me start off first by saying, I'n not much of a car guy, which is unfortunate because I feel like I could have saved myself a lot of money over the years. With that being said, I'm not opposed to getting my hands dirty and trying to fix an issue myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife's 2003 Pontiac Grand Am has had issues over the last year with sporadically starting. On many occasions we have had to have it towed to an auto shop, but each time it miraculously decides to start backup at some point while at the shop. We have taken it to two different mechanics, and after replacing the starter, they still have been unable to figure out what the issue is. Last night the car died again, and we had it towed back to the house this time, in hopes that it would start back up by the morning. Unfortunately it didn't, and I'm stuck trying to figure out what the issue could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to start the car, the lights, dash, and radio all come on, but the car does not crank. With the hood up, I can hear it clicking from the fuse box, and a buzzing/hissing from somewhere near the engine. I doubt it's an issue with the battery, as we replaced that 2 weeks ago, and with the starter being roughly a year old, I feel like the issue shouldn't be there either. One possibility I have read about was the anti-theft system misfiring and locking the car down. The security light on the dash does blink when I turn the car to the on position, but I'm unsure as to whether this is truly the issue, as I would think the car would unlock after so many hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions as to what could be causing this issue, and some ideas on how to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13050" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T23:07:34.687" Title="2003 Pontiac Grand Am Wont Start" Tags="|starting|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22309" CreationDate="2015-11-04T20:40:36.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably very bad news.  It sounds like all your coolant has been sucked through the engine and blown out of the exhaust.  Once all the coolant had gone, the engine will have over heated and siezed. The only thing I can think of that would have caused this is a blown cylinder head gasket.  The engine may need a lot of work, or need replacing, unless someone can give some better news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T20:40:36.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2015-11-04T20:55:22.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many new and inexpensive chargers come with a conditioning option. This will help reverse sulfation and bring the battery to a like new condition. I have a fairly new battery that I would charge but it would still fail after a couple starts. I tried the recondition button and good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13052" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T20:55:22.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22311" CreationDate="2015-11-04T20:55:56.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as the starter is not very old, I think the fault may be the relay in the fuse box.  Try replacing the relay.  I think the buzzing may just be an electric pump running for the abs brakes or something like that and nothing to do with the starter problem.  The relay will be the one that is clicking when you turn the ignition to position 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T20:55:56.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:00:44.190" Score="8" ViewCount="4921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Corolla Verso bought in 2005. Recently it has started to make a noise somewhere in the steering column. Whilst it is only as loud as a clanking keyring, the odd thing is that the noise is made at irregular moments, nothing to do with speed or turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most odd of all, the car can be motionless (engine running, handbrake on) and the noise will start and stop of its own accord, without anything moving. Yes, with my hands off the wheel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If forced to guess, I would say the sound is coming from that part of the steering column nearest to the driver's knees. It reminds me of a motorised kids toy that is held so that the parts cannot move, and the internal mechanism slips and jerks. (For the purposes of this test, all children and toys were removed from the vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you know what it is - can I safely ignore it, or do I really have to get it fixed?!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastEditorUserId="13051" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T22:48:33.423" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T11:17:49.247" Title="What is making a noise under my steering wheel when car is not moving?" Tags="|toyota|noise|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22160" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:26:19.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently put engine oil in my power steering fluid reservoir. Power steering fluid is similar to transmission fluid. It mixed in fine and had no effect that I could identify. Due to a leak I eventually ran my power steering on pure engine oil until its was repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oils and transmission and break fluids are hydraulic fluids and apart from different viscosity they will perform similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But transmissions are designed for a particular fluid type and other fluid mixtures will change viscosity which I suspect will change gearbox behavior and efficiency. More of a concern is that seals may not be designed for mineral or synthetic engine oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had done this, I would see what effect it does have for all our benefit and then drain and replace with correct fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7143" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T21:26:19.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:29:44.247" Score="1" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is very basic. How do you replace a low-beam headlight on a '99 Chrysler Town&amp;amp;Country Lxi? Also can I replace just high-beams with blue lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13053" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T22:23:00.623" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T22:37:36.543" Title="1999 T&amp;C Low-beam Headlight Replacement" Tags="|headlight|chrysler|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:44:53.863" Score="3" ViewCount="5626" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda CRV with 117,000 miles. At last oil change in April @ 116,000 miles at the dealer they noticed a fluid leak at timing cover inspection plate and resealed the plate. They also noted that I needed to change the compliance bushings so I just had that done 2 weeks ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple days after that work was completed I noticed an oil leak under the passenger side front end. It only leaked after driving, not after sitting overnight etc. I took it back to the dealer who wanted $ to diagnose the issue and the mechanic said it looked like it was in the same area as the inspection plate that they sealed in April. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tired of the crappy customer service at the dealer, I took it to another shop  I trust who used dye to diagnose the leak for less $ than the dealer and they said the leak was located at the VTC Oil Control Solenoid. I gave them the go ahead to replace that and then I get a call that now there is a leak at the crankshaft seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No indicator lights have come one at all, I drive &amp;lt; 50 miles/week, and I've done all the regular maintenance on time since purchasing new including changing the timing belt at 105000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm trying to understand why the oil leaks all of a sudden. Is it likely just a case of a wandering oil leak due to old gaskets etc. or could the leaks be related to the compliance bushing repair (such as something getting knocked or damaged during the repair) or the timing cover inspection plate repair back in April? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What questions should I be asking the mechanics at this point before doing any more repairs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13054" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T22:27:42.557" Title="2003 Honda CRV oil leaks" Tags="|honda|oil-leak|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22318" CreationDate="2015-11-04T21:55:06.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the engine's crank case ventilation system is blocked.  This can cause a pressure increase inside the block which can then force oil out of the oil seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T22:24:24.280" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T22:24:24.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22341" CreationDate="2015-11-05T00:49:08.717" Score="10" ViewCount="64022" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Toyota sequoia. Brake pedal was fine most of the time but occasionally it would sink to the floor while stopping and it would be hard to stop. I bled my brakes and now the pedal goes to the floor all the time with little stopping power. My auto shop teacher says I need a new master cylinder, but it was fine before bleeding the brakes. Also the brake light on the dashboard came on. Any ideas? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13057" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T01:39:23.413" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T10:37:21.400" Title="After brake bleed, pedal goes to floor" Tags="|toyota|brakes|sequoia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2015-11-05T03:53:35.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - you can make the freelander into a front wheel drive vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to remove the IRD (essentially the center transfer case) and replace it with the same unit from a 2WD freelander.  The rear drive shaft and diff should be removed, and you may need to disable some sensors depending on your locale.  The rear axle housing can stay, but if you get the rear axle from a 2WD then it'll be smaller and lighter.  If you keep the old one, fashion some kind of sealed cover plate for where the diff was mounted, and bolt it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common workaround for those whose IRDs have imploded, generally due to mismatched wheel speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your fault was something else, be aware that the IRD is nothing more than two big paddle wheels running inside a bath of special oil.  This oil's resistance changes if its being churned. whereas when both paddles are moving at the same speed the oil remains a liquid.   So, if you have disparate wheel speeds then the oil is &quot;locking up&quot; and will eventually lose the ability to return to liquid state.  This leaves you with a locked transmission and you'll get windup, and eventually the weakest link will fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upshot - check your tyre/tire pressures fortnightly on a freelander, with a decent gauge, and keep them at the right pressures for your tyres/region/weather always.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T03:53:35.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-05T05:12:36.017" Score="3" ViewCount="2691" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o71Yu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o71Yu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I have a Honda Fourtrax and I have tried numerous things to get this stubborn hub off the rear axle it just won't budge I am open to any idea short of a stick of dynamite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13062" LastEditorUserId="13062" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T18:05:32.783" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T16:46:29.967" Title="How do you remove a stubbornly stuck rear hub on a 1993 Honda fourtrax 300?" Tags="|honda|brakes|atv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22327" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:47:00.470" Score="4" ViewCount="6820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Trigger motorcycle. I have seen most of the motorcycles even like Karizma ZMR having 5 gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the reason to have just 5 gears even for 223 cc motorcycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T01:01:21.357" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T03:28:14.157" Title="Why are most motorcycles 5 speed than 6 speed?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|transmission|gears|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22325" CreationDate="2015-11-05T09:05:04.177" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three considerations when making a low end/small capacity engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reliability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 and 3 directly affect 1.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a gearbox more reliable you need to make the parts more durable, this is normally achieved by using more materials or more robust materials which add to the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a 6 speed gearbox fit in the same space as the 5 speed engine you need to make the gears smaller (not in teeth count necessarily but probably in width).  To maintain the same reliability/durability you have to use more expensive materials again or increase the space used which means that the bike weighs more/takes up more space and may not be suitable for the market it was originally thought up for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally a small capacity engine may not ever reach the road speeds where a 6th gear is appropriate and may actually cause worse efficiency (i.e. if the engine is lugging down due to the low revs) or you would have to shift gears more (where the 6th gear ratio is equal to the original 5th gear and all other ratios are that bit closer to each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T09:05:04.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-05T09:27:23.853" Score="4" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please if someone could help me ill really appreciate it. I've got a Citroen C2 the Bendix of the starter was completely worn so we purchased a new starter and put it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first it started. Once you put it in gear, it cuts out. After a while it just completely dies. We had someone come and look at it and he recons it's the alternator. I've been phoning around today for prices and came across a guy that said its normally the regulator on the alternator that goes? He also recons it can't be the Alternator ... any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13066" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T14:19:38.350" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T06:05:21.517" Title="Citroen C2 Alternator" Tags="|alternator|starter|stall|citroen|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-05T16:06:33.780" Score="3" ViewCount="3037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I loaded some lumber to my SUV and it &lt;strong&gt;sliced&lt;/strong&gt; the rubber seal/molding of the hatch door when I was either pushing it inside or pulling it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use some sort of glue to glue back together the slice, so that it won't grow bigger? What would be the best glue for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T21:46:22.097" Title="Glue to repair sliced door rubber molding seal?" Tags="|door|seal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22218" CreationDate="2015-11-05T17:18:44.843" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see where your mechanic is coming from. The reason being that, although like Steve Cross notes, the impact wrench applies a lot of force suddenly, it applies the force in an evenly rotational direction. ANY wiggle in the socket (Which there will always be or you wouldn't be able to get it on the nut) and the breaker bar will be putting lateral force along with the rotational force. That will increase chances of breaking the stud. This is why steveverrill recommends to hold the nut end when using a breaker bar, although I'm not sure if that would do much good with so much leverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have an impact wrench, and having broken a few studs using a bar or the tire tool that comes with the car, now I always use a four-way to remove lug nuts. It's not as good as an impact wrench but the upward force on one side helps balance the downward force on the other. I've never broken a stud with a four-way. (I have, though, broken a four-way, be careful.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was at a shop once and their impact wrench wouldn't budge the nut, so the mechanic said he couldn't change my tire. I asked him about a breaker bar. He said he had one but he couldn't use it because the shop would be liable for a broken stud - which is messed up because it was the same shop that put those nuts on in the first place. He told me if I wanted, I could back it out the door and do it myself, which I did successfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13068" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T17:18:44.843" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2015-11-05T20:17:24.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my s40. 07 2.0d for few months all of a sudden it came up key falure try again and then it came up immobiliser try again put it into volvo and they said the ecu lost memory so had to be updated (common fault ) apparently so got car back seemed fine for about a week then happend again so they told me i had to replace the key fob battery and my engine battery as if these run flat it looses ecu memory so replace them and anouther update from volvo and now car seems fine touch wood hope this helps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13074" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T20:17:24.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22338" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:09:23.727" Score="1" ViewCount="4048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving along this evening and lifted the clutch too quickly by mistake. I have hardly ever done this (about twice a year)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this time the engine revs dropped to about 100-200rpm, and the oil light flashed on for about 1/4 of a second. The engine was warm at the time. Then the engine revved back up to idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I done any damage by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do if I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:37:48.707" Title="I almost stalled and my oil light came on" Tags="|oil|stall|warning-light|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22335" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:25:58.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have done no damage. The light was indicating low oil pressure, but a brief moment like that will not be a problem.  Never ignore the oil pressure light if it stays on even if you think you will be home in a few minutes. It doesn't take long driving with no oil to getting to the moving parts to cause damage.  In the second or so that you experienced, there would have been oil remaining where it was needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:25:58.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22335" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:37:48.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no issue with your vehicle or its engine. Most vehicle manufacturers have set the &quot;idiot light&quot; to come on if the oil pressure drops below ~5psi. Obviously you've hit that threshold. Oil remains on parts for a fairly decent amount of time even if there isn't any oil flow. It doesn't take long for the oil to be gone. You'll have caused more damage during a dry start (where the engine hasn't been ran in a few days and all of the oil is at the bottom of the oil pan) than you would here ... even though that doesn't cause much damage either (most engine wear occurs at startup due to this). When the oil is changed your oil pressure light will stay on longer than you described. Again, you will have done no real damage to the engine in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:37:48.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22329" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:44:33.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's the soft rubber seal, try something like Shoe Goo. It will mend the two ends together. It will seal them back together so the rubber is still pliable and will still seal. Be careful not to create a large lump at the glue site or you'll create an area where water can leak in (use only as much as you need to get the pieces to stick together). Also, you'll need to leave the hatch open until it is completely cured or it will leave a deformation in the rubber and could possibly adhere to the vehicle body which could rip apart the seal even worse the next time the hatch is opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:44:33.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22323" CreationDate="2015-11-05T21:51:01.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat is the right way to go here, but did you heat the hub until it was cherry red? When I say red I mean RED (as in glowing), not just hot. It's about the only way you are going to get it off. It really needs to be completely hot all the way around so the bond between the hub and the axle will be broken. You'll probably only be beating your head against the concrete until you do, then it still may not work. In that case @BrianKnoblauch is right, replacement of the entire axle may be the only recourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:51:01.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22320" CreationDate="2015-11-05T22:23:22.903" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to completely rebleed your system. You obviously have air in it. If you have a power bleeder which fits the master cylinder, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO NOT BLEED THE BRAKING SYSTEM BY REMOVING ALL THE BRAKE FLUID FIRST!!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize for yelling at you, but this is &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; the wrong way to go about bleeding the system. &lt;strong&gt;The idea is to replace the old fluid as you are putting new fluid into the system&lt;/strong&gt;. You run the old fluid out until it runs clear. As you've discovered it will cause you all kinds of issues. It may be very hard to bleed all of the air out of the system, but you need to bleed it sooner rather than later. If you don't have a power bleeder, use a friend to pump the brakes for you. Please do the following to general steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;em&gt;brand new&lt;/em&gt; (never opened) bottle of brake fluid (per your vehicle specs) ... in your case, you may need two to completely redo the job&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A wrench (spanner) to open the bleeder valve (usually a 5/16&quot; boxed end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clear plastic bottle to drain the fluid into&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A piece of plastic tubing like you'd find for fish tanks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A friend with big burly quad muscles who can hear and follow direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open your bottle of NEW brake fluid and pour about an inch worth in the bottom of the clear container&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pop the top on the master cylinder; ensure it is full; leave the top off (you need to check it often as you go through the process)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start your process at the brake cylinder/caliper which is farthest away from the master cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; If you need to jack the car up or take the wheel off, ensure you put the vehicle on a jack stand so you do not endanger yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the caliper/cylinder, put the boxed end of your wrench on the bleeder valve. Use the wrench to loosen it slightly without allowing any air to seep in ... all you are looking to do is break the valve free.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the wrench still on the valve, affix one end of the plastic tubing over the bleeder nipple, while placing the other end into the bottle so it is submerged into the fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The reason you put the extra brake fluid into the bottom of the bottle and then submerge the end of the plastic tubing into it is, just in case you and your fiend do not communicate correctly and they lift the brake pedal too soon, the tube will draw the fluid up into itself instead of sucking air. This is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important so you don't have to start all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have your friend pump up the brakes as best as they can. When they've pumped two or three or four times, make sure they know to hold the pedal down until you tell them to pump it up again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the bleeder valve and observe the fluid as it's going through the tube and into the bottle. You are looking for two things: first, clear fluid; two, lack of air bubbles. In your case, until you see a big gaggle of air bubbles come through the tube, you need to keep going through the process of bleeding the particular caliper/cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the bleeder valve and then tell your friend to pump the brake pedal again. Keep going through this until the lack of bubbles can be seen. This is going to take several iterations to accomplish, but after the first one, it should be quite a bit less on the second wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a left hand drive vehicle (like most found in the US), the order of brakes bleeding will usually follow this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passenger (right) side rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver (left) side rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passenger (right) side front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver (left) side front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right hand drive cars which you'll find in the UK should most likely follow this sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passenger (left) side rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver (right) side rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passenger (left) side front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driver (right) side front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should get your car back in pretty good shape. Don't worry too much about your mistake as it happens to the bets of us. Just chalk it up to inexperience and learn from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T22:23:22.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22317" CreationDate="2015-11-05T22:37:36.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you replace a low-beam headlight on a '99 Chrysler Town&amp;amp;Country Lxi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you open your hood and look directly behind where the headlight bulb is located, you'll see some wire protruding out from the area. Pull this plug out from the back of the headlight bulb, then turn the retainer ring counter-clockwise to remove it, then pull the bulb out. When replacing with a new bulb &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!&lt;/strong&gt; This is very important as oils from your fingers will damage the bulb and reduce the life expectancy to less than two weeks. Use a pair of nitrile gloves or handle it with a paper towel. Replace the bulb in the same manner as you pulled the old one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also can I replace just high-beams with blue lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No you cannot since your system is a two bulb system (one bulb per side). If it were a four bulb system you could do this for the bulb which is used on the high beam side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KAen_4Jg6BA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video for a Dodge Caravan&lt;/a&gt; may be of use to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T22:37:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22344" CreationDate="2015-11-05T22:46:10.893" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front end of my sedan hits on bumps if I approach at a right angle. The mid/rear portion of the car doesn't hit bumps and mid/rear clearance is decent however the front clearance is poor. My doubt here is that does the  number of people sitting(weight) in the back seats affect the probability of the front hitting the bump, the weight in the 2 front seats remains constant. If yes, then does more weight at back increase or reduce the probability ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13078" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T23:16:16.233" Title="Front of the car(sedan) hitting speed bumps when approached at right angle" Tags="|car|bumper|weight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22343" CreationDate="2015-11-05T23:16:16.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any additional weight in the passenger compartment will be spread across all four wheels, but obviously not equally. If the additional weight is nearer the rear wheels, they will receive more of the weight, but some will be on the front. So extra passengers would make it more likely for you to ground the front of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lift the front of the car you would have to add weight behind the rear wheels.  This video illustrates this - &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U7zb7qnZBvs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U7zb7qnZBvs&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The trunk (boot) of the vehicle was loaded with a heavy weight which balanced the vehicle on the rear axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T23:16:16.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T00:56:33.470" Score="1" ViewCount="1643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar issue, my 2008 ford escape hybrid driver side remains on cold and my passenger side climate control works fine, no problems. I also notice that when I turn the knob on the driver side to heat, it does display on my dash that its changing the temp because it will say 90 degrees but doesn't change the temp. So I do believe its my driver side blend door actuator. Am I correct? and can I really replace it by only removing the glove department door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13080" LastEditorUserId="24798" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T11:21:32.250" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T12:02:56.707" Title="2008 Ford escape hybrid blend door actuator" Tags="|ford|hvac|escape|hybrid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22347" CreationDate="2015-11-06T02:39:12.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's exactly what I'd say the issue is ... most vehicles today have blend door actuators which are operated with an electric motor. These motors can go bad without regard to your comfort. In most cases the actuators are pretty easy to get to, though I don't know exactly where it's at with your specific vehicle. You will most likely find it on the driver's side of the vehicle. Engineers seem to place them where you can readily get to them. When you find it, you can try actuating it with a 12v source to see if it's working or not. It should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcgB5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcgB5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IvhM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IvhM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T02:39:12.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T05:13:46.567" Score="2" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 92 chevy lumina, when i drive or let it run for a little bit it will smoke from underneath the upper radiator hose. it is not the actual radiator hose as i changed it thinking it was that. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust as i checked that. Wanted to know if there was a way for me to troubleshoot what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13084" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:40:06.327" Title="White smoke is coming from my engine. how do i find out what it is?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|radiator|hose|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T08:41:24.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of about a week ago the head lights started acting funny, some would turn on some wont, all of a sudden they would turn on. then it became an issue with them on top of that turning off by themselves. id have to turn them off and on and they would come on. sometimes they'd stay stuck on high beam other times they would work normally, and not always all on. Then today i went t the super market, about 1miles from home, after leaving the super market and turning the car on the steering wheel was really really REALLY hard, all lights on dash board indicating all problems were all on, nav/radio off and unable to it back turn on. Since it was late i drove straight home and parked the car in my driveway. A few hours later after doing a little research on this very helpful site i decided to go down and check on the fuse box. Before doing so however I opened the car and attempted* to turn it on.&#xA;~ The car wont start, head lights come on, the dash board seems to think is on because when i got out it beeped and displayed the key is not near message. it just clicks and makes a few weird noises but the engine doesnt turn.. Please help!! I should mention live in Dominican Republic, so a dealership is not an option and going to a mechanic not knowing myself whats wrong is like asking for them to take my money and possibly make things worst. i purchased this car about 2 months ago and everything was fine until last week. please help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13085" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T11:08:11.190" Title="Lexus IS 2007, wont start, electrical issues noticed." Tags="|lexus|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2015-11-06T09:20:55.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get noises from my wheels on full lock, and I've worked out it is the mudflaps I fitted myself, which are slightly out of position, and catch on the tyres. The noise echoes through the bodywork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth verifying that nothing is touching the tyre (either side) when you're on full lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T09:20:55.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T09:54:52.683" Score="5" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a dyno to measure go-kart engine torque for a high-school project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to use a water brake by varying input/output through a water pump and have read that this should be a positive-displacement (not centrifugal) pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great if you could provide ideas where I could find a cheap pump.  For example, could I find one at an auto wrecker?  What car manufacturers would use a PD pump?  Thanks for any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13086" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T16:35:23.807" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T15:52:17.067" Title="Need to source PD-pump for small engine dyno school project" Tags="|power|pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22350" CreationDate="2015-11-06T10:35:58.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a long shot, but I think all these problems could be a charging issue.  You first need to check if your battery is now flat, that could cause all you latest problems.  After charging/replacing the battery if necessary, you then need to check if the alternator is running over/under voltage and rectify that.  You may need a new alternator.  A simple voltmeter should be able to diagnose this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T10:35:58.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22352" CreationDate="2015-11-06T11:11:20.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the oil pump on my BMW is a chain-driven, positive-displacement gear-pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only concern with using an oil pump is that the internals can be prone to rusting, so either you'd want to coat/plate the vanes before use or add coolant to inhibit rust formation, but the oil pump should suit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Paulster2's suggestion of using straight engine oil is definitely a more sensible option as the oil is used to lubricate the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of pictures that show the inside of my oil pump. The &quot;exploded&quot; view shows how the pump pressurizes the oil in three stages. The three gear-shaped rotors mount on the shaft at the back and act in conjunction with the ring-shaped idlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDSKX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDSKX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SfsF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SfsF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil Pump - Exploded View&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T14:50:53.767" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T14:50:53.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2015-11-06T11:23:30.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This actually turned out to be the upper strut mount being heavily worn, replacing it fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:23:30.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22349" CreationDate="2015-11-06T11:40:06.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White smoke from the Engine bay usually means that either its your coolant or water evaporating ,basically steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not have to worry about it as its not a critical issue you can drive to a service stop, your radiator hose is probably blown and its an easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of your gaskets is blown or about to blow, a way to surely pin point this issue is to smell the smoke, if it smells like rubber or something burning up then there is a high chance its one of your gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sort of critical and you need to take care of this asap. Identify which part is causing the smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:40:06.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T09:14:00.740" Score="1" ViewCount="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a dyno to measure gokart engine torque for a highschool project.  I would like to use a water brake by varying input/output through a water pump and have read that this should be a positive displacement (not centrifugal).  It would be great if you could provide ideas where I could find a cheap pump.  For example, could I find a suitable pump at an auto wrecker?  What car manufacturers would use a PD pump?  Thanks for any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Danny" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:42:29.677" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:42:29.677" Title="Sources for a used Positive Displacement pump" Tags="|pump|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-11-06T17:45:15.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22352" CreationDate="2015-11-06T14:48:06.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably also use an electric fuel pump to do this. A rotary vane pump is a positive displacement pump. This type of mechanical pump is used quite often in vehicles. Most can produce anywhere from 45-60psi. There are also low pressure ones which produce about 5-10psi, if you don't need the higher pressure. Using the higher pressure one, you could use a fuel (or pressure) regulator which would allow you to vary the pressure, even if you have a higher pressure fuel pump. Looking at them, you'd want one which would be &quot;in-line&quot; not &quot;in-tank&quot; ... at least I'd assume you wouldn't want an in-tank version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T16:05:54.747" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T16:05:54.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T15:26:05.163" Score="4" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install front parking sensors &amp;amp; camera (+display). So I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kit of 4 sensors + controller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camera&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Display&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I know how to install &amp;amp; wire them, the thing I don't sure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3 (camera, sensors &amp;amp; display) need constant 12V supply: Because they front I want them  always ON = Ignition switched. {Unlike reverse sensors that we need them only when reversed so they get power from reverse lights}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So suppose I connect all 3 to the glovebox light (or any other SINGLE ignition switched wire) - Are there implications regarding overloading, short circuit etc? Because instead of 1 device (e.g. glovebox light) connected on that single ignition switched wire, now I will have 4: glovebox light+sensors+camera+display?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Why I consist on single ignition switched 12V wire? Because I know how to find only 1 (the one of glovebox lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Peugeot 508 (2013)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12433" LastEditorUserId="12433" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T15:34:52.907" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T15:34:52.907" Title="Wire front camera+sensors+display on SINGLE Ignition switched 12V wire" Tags="|electrical|sensor|camera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:59:54.960" Score="2" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently replaced airbags in a fiat 500 1.2L (2010 model). I've also cleared the crash codes/data from ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume I would have to replace the front crash sensor as well, but couldn't locate it. The following link (although a different year and engine size) suggests it's under the front slam panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiatonlineparts.com/a/Fiat__50014L-I4-MultiAir-Turbo--6-Spd-Aisin-F21-250-HD-Auto-TransL-TREKKING/61624596__6591792/Module--Impact-Sensors--Air-Bag/i2322911.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fiatonlineparts.com/a/Fiat__50014L-I4-MultiAir-Turbo--6-Spd-Aisin-F21-250-HD-Auto-TransL-TREKKING/61624596__6591792/Module--Impact-Sensors--Air-Bag/i2322911.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere else it might be or are there any tips on how to locate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I found this link which seems to suggest there is a sensor underneath the steering column. Would this also need replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiatonlineparts.com/a/Fiat__50014L-I4-MultiAir-Turbo--6-Spd-Aisin-F21-250-HD-Auto-TransL-TREKKING/61624596__6549443/Air-Bags-Modules---Impact-Sensors-and-Clock-Spring/i2323680.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fiatonlineparts.com/a/Fiat__50014L-I4-MultiAir-Turbo--6-Spd-Aisin-F21-250-HD-Auto-TransL-TREKKING/61624596__6549443/Air-Bags-Modules---Impact-Sensors-and-Clock-Spring/i2323680.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my main question is, do I need to replace the crash sensor and if so where would it be on the particular model I'm working on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13093" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T17:36:11.940" Title="Fiat 500 (2010) airbag replace - crash sensor help" Tags="|sensor|supplemental-restraint-system|fiat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T19:00:27.053" Score="3" ViewCount="8796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know whether I can use &lt;code&gt;NGK 90223&lt;/code&gt; spark plugs on my 2011 Mini Cooper R56 hardtop with ~50k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original spark plugs on it (&lt;code&gt;Beru 12ZR6SP2&lt;/code&gt;) seem to have worn and the engine is misfiring under load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Beru spec, they are supposed to have a spark gap of 1mm; the ones on my engine measure around 1.2-1.3mm though. &lt;code&gt;NGK 90223&lt;/code&gt; has about a 0.8mm gap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;NGK 90223&lt;/code&gt; is recommended by many auto-stores as an OEM replacement. Since the spark gap is different, I am not sure whether I can replace &lt;code&gt;Beru 12ZR6SP2&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;NGK 90223&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I replace &lt;code&gt;Beru 12ZR6SP2&lt;/code&gt; with &lt;code&gt;NGK 90223&lt;/code&gt;? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the Mini Cooper R56 recommended spark gap? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13082" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T15:06:50.927" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T15:06:50.927" Title="2011 Mini Cooper R56 Hardtop Sparkplug Gap" Tags="|sparkplugs|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22365" CreationDate="2015-11-06T20:19:16.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/beru/12ZR-6SP2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sparkplug.com reference site&lt;/a&gt; says there are only three sparkplugs which will work in place of the Beru 12ZR-6SP2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BMW   12122158165&#xA;BMW   2158165&#xA;NGK   PLZKBR7A-G&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T20:19:16.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23396" CreationDate="2015-11-06T21:01:11.363" Score="6" ViewCount="2455" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local repair shop recently replaced the engine in my 06 Pontiac Solstice. They obtained a used engine from LKQ. I'm not sure how many miles the replacement engine had (unfortunately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wednesday night, the engine blew. Under light acceleration, I heard a single, loud POP, the car shut off, and I coasted to the side of the road. A LOT of oil drained out, looked like all of it. I couldn't see any indication of a hole in the oil pan or anywhere else. Also, most of the coolant drained out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, relevant points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The oil that came out, with less than 2000 miles on it, was &lt;strong&gt;black&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Car has an aftermarket turbo, which was also on the previous engine. The shop moved this over when they installed the new engine. Also replaced clutch, water pump and thermostat. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I picked up the car, it had a weird drivetrain vibration &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21363/&quot;&gt;I've described elsewhere&lt;/a&gt;. The shop replaced the transmission mount afterwards. That reduced the vibration but did not eliminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I ran a compression test a few weeks ago and found 120/120/140/140. Spec for this motor is 150. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, when starting, the engine would idle pretty roughly for 5-10 seconds before settling into a smooth idle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I checked the oil a few days ago when filling up the gas tank, and found it about a quart low. I topped it off with a quart of Mobil 1, level looked fine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the engine blew, I wasn't going very fast, and wasn't under heavy boost. I was turning left at about 25-30MPH. I could see that leading to oil starvation if the level was really low, but it wasn't. I also have no evidence of a leak or anything in my driveway or elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For about the past week, there was a weird problem with starting. After parking, the car would refuse to turn over, almost as if the battery was dead. I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery cable (each time this happened), and then the car would start fine. I suspect some corrosion on the terminal. Note that we've had some pretty heavy rain and, at one point, the ECU and battery both got a little wet. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm waiting for the shop to get back to me. I know they didn't look at it yesterday as it was in exactly the same place I had dropped it when I drove past at the end of the day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions on how to handle this if the shop doesn't cover it? Should I expect them to cover it, considering how recently this happened, the weird vibration, etc.? Is there any way to really determine if the engine was bad when it went in (making this LKQ's fault rather than that of the shop)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all advice appreciated. I don't want to hold them liable if it wasn't there fault, but after spending a significant chunk of cash, I think it would be reasonable to expect the engine to last longer than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The shop called back. Apparently a rod is protruding from the side of the block. Yay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've said that they'll cover the labor for replacing the engine. We're not yet sure if LKQ is going to honor their warranty due to the aftermarket turbo. However, this type of failure, in my opinion, couldn't be caused by the turbo. The engine wasn't overheated, low on oil or coolant, or anything else. It appears that it was just an old, tired engine, that was on its last legs when we obtained it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on appealing if LKQ doesn't honor their warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;So, LKQ won't warranty the engine because of the aftermarket turbo.&#xA;I fail to see how a turbo can cause an engine to throw a rod. It wasn't low on oil, hadn't been overheated, etc. It just gave up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop had initially implied that they were going to cover the labor, but now they've said that they are not. Wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the up side, I've had this car apart so many times that I don't think it'll take more than a weekend or two to get a new engine installed. I'm glad that this isn't my daily driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:52:46.037" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:52:46.037" Title="Shop replaced engine, blew about six weeks later" Tags="|engine|repair|turbocharger|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2015-11-06T22:14:40.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told to not drive on winter tires above 45 degrees fahrenheit (7 Celsius) from three tire dealerships in my local area. If you drive above this temperature, apparently it chews up the tires and wears the tread down faster.&#xA;That is the knowledge I have on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastEditorUserId="12600" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T16:11:52.953" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T16:11:52.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22386" CreationDate="2015-11-06T23:58:07.447" Score="11" ViewCount="86466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard the term overboost quite a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;bad&quot; overboost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an overboost problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen to my turbo engine if I don't fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: apparently there is a good type where the engine produces more power for 5 seconds or so. Why just for say 5 seconds and not all the time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2023-09-06T14:42:02.267" Title="What is overboost?" Tags="|engine-theory|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T01:18:35.103" Score="2" ViewCount="2073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other morning driving to work when I turned on the high beams both were out. The low beams and fog lights are working fine.Could it be a fuse or connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="1419" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T21:08:23.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T03:06:23.397" Title="High beam failure on Toyota Corolla 2010" Tags="|toyota|headlight|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22372" CreationDate="2015-11-07T02:02:18.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boost crams more fuel and air into an engine. With more fuel and air you get more power, but if you cram in too much the air fuel mixture will ignite prematurely. This phenomenon is know as preignition. Preignition has many causes but in this case, when too much fuel and air is compressed it gets too hot and spontaneously ignites. Preignition leads to detonation. Detonation or pining is when two flame fronts collide. The first flame front is caused by the preignition and the second by the spark plug at the correct time. The condition has a very distinct sound to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both preignition and detonation are bad. By itself preignition causes an opposing rotational force on the engine which is hard on the connecting rods and crank shaft. Detonation releases a tremendous amount of energy when the flame fronts collide. This release of energy over an extended amount of time will damage engine components, shatter valves, blow holes in pistons, shatter rings, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines normally have some margin for error, meaning that they tuned to produce less boost than the maximum amount that they can tolerate. Overboost pushes the boost to the maximum amount or beyond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:28:17.483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:28:17.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T03:53:28.340" Score="3" ViewCount="7506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've lapped my valves and want to check if they are sealing properly. Everywhere that I've read talks about using stuff like, acetone, gasoline, paint thinner... to fill the exhaust/intake ports and see if they come out on the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious why people don't just use water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is a little leak like 1 drop every few minutes acceptable? Or should it have no visible leak for x amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T19:18:43.650" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T05:48:45.033" Title="Lapping Valves - Using Water as Test Medium" Tags="|engine|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6613" CreationDate="2015-11-07T07:41:41.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre pressure could do it too. Just had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13105" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T07:41:41.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T08:35:26.490" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Tucson. Recently I noticed the Aircon doesn't cool when the car is working and not moving. When I move for a few minutes Aircon starts to cool again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13106" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T12:37:13.597" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T12:37:13.597" Title="Aircon doesn't cool when car is stationary" Tags="|ac|hyundai|tucson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T09:13:25.147" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai Tucson 2008. Gasoline model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a very hot climate and when I  start my car in the morning it studders for a while. If I pump the gas, it disappears and doesn't come back. I experience this pretty much every morning. What could be the cause ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13106" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T12:36:09.757" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T14:04:27.420" Title="Studder first starting" Tags="|engine|ignition|hyundai|ignition-coil|tucson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22378" CreationDate="2015-11-07T09:36:49.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rev the engine up and it starts to cool down, then you may be a little low on refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to start moving, then the electric fans that are usually controlled by the a/c system may not be working.  They assist in cooling the condenser at the front of the engine bay, when there isn't sufficient air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T10:27:43.097" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T10:27:43.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22375" CreationDate="2015-11-07T09:57:16.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to suggest to use thick honey, you would quickly respond that honey will not find very small leaks.  That is the answer really, since we are trying to find a gap where exhaust gasses under pressure could leak from, we need to use something with very low viscosity and is visible to us, to find the leak for us.  Look at this chart, you will see that acetone has less than half the viscosity if water, so it will find the leaks a lot easier than water will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/absolute-viscosity-liquids-d_1259.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/absolute-viscosity-liquids-d_1259.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how long you wait and how many drops you get, I would have thought a drop of acetone every few minutes would equate to a lot of exhaust gas leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T12:37:41.027" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T12:37:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22373" CreationDate="2015-11-07T10:05:58.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuses only blow if there is either a fault in the circuit causing an excessive current to flow, or due to age and stress the fuse-able link inside them cracks.  The first thing to check is the fuse, but if it has blown, a new one may blow when you turn the light on again.  If the fuse hasn't blown, it could be a faulty main beam switch (possible), a faulty relay (more likely), a broken wire (less likely), a corroded connector (possible), or both bulbs have blown (probably at different times but you didn't notice the first one).&#xA;Start with the easy things to check, like the bulbs and relay, then move onto the connectors and switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T10:05:58.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T10:32:50.840" Score="4" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Tucson , 2008 model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 20 months ago while my wife was driving the car, some smoke come out and she stopped the car and they tow it. (She doesn't remember white or black smoke)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that in about 6 months car started to studder while I am driving. It was skipping a beat. I take the car to mechanic and change the spark plugs. One of the plugs was really wear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, probably in 4 months after that same problem. This time I change plugs plus the ignition coil. Problem solved and come back after 3 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been changing plugs regularly so that I can use the car. I suspect at some point of time car overheated and engine block got damaged and there is water in the engine as a result and that is the root cause of all studder problems. Do you guys agree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will throw the car away in another 20 months. (Where I live cars are expensive and you get to use them only for 10 years). Shall I get it properly fixed or just keep changing the spark plugs and use it until the license expires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13106" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T12:36:38.153" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T13:17:39.677" Title="Frequent spark plug change" Tags="|ignition|hyundai|ignition-coil|tucson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22383" CreationDate="2015-11-07T11:03:41.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't agree with your diagnosis.  You could have a faulty injector which is causing the cylinder with the problem to run lean.  This could cause the plug to overheat and wear out quickly.  Was the plug clean and shiny, not black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like it is more likely running rich, could still be an injector problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T11:32:22.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T11:32:22.243" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22379" CreationDate="2015-11-07T14:04:27.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you need to clean your intake tract, mass air flow sensor, and throttle body, plus change the air filter if you haven't done so recently. I would bet you have some carbon or gunk causing the engine to hesitate in some situations. The idle air control valve may be dirty/sticky causing the issue as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a complete upper end cleaning and I will bet this issue will be a thing of the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T14:04:27.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22372" CreationDate="2015-11-07T15:13:49.487" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: Overboost is too much air, usually at too high a temperature.  Detonation is likely to follow.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the engine is just an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2739/57&quot;&gt;air pump&lt;/a&gt;.  All the turbo is doing is making it easier for air molecules to get into the intake side of the engine.  Of course, the turbo has finite efficiency: it is pushing in more air molecules but it's also increasing their net energy (i.e., intake air temperature goes up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine needs to add enough fuel molecules to combust with those air molecules.  Because of the increase in air temperature, it sometimes needs to add even more fuel as a coolant (which seems wasteful because it is).  The engine's goal is to make sure that there's just the right air-fuel mixture at just the right temperature to ignite exactly when it's supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much boost (overboost) can lead to two big problems (well, lots of possible problems but let's stay at a fundamental level for now):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lean is bad:&lt;/strong&gt; If you have too little fuel for too much air, you have a lean condition.  In this situation, the fuel-air mixture is actually easier to ignite with increasing temperatures (e.g., under boost).  In fact, it can sometimes suddenly ignite due to hot spots in the cylinder or just the fact that the whole mixture is above &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activation_energy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;its activation energy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting Corky Bell of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/305998.Maximum_Boost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maximum Boost&lt;/a&gt; fame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any misfires at full throttle induced by a lean condition are serious&#xA;  and must be dealt with prior to operating at that boost level again. &#xA;  A lack of fuel raises chamber temperatures dramatically.  Heat is the&#xA;  cause of detonation, which is the nemesis of high performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequence is that the mixture in the cylinder ignites at the wrong time.  This cause all kinds of bad mechanical problems, sounds awful, can break your engine and definitely doesn't make you feel speedy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal detonation is exactly what it sounds like: critical pieces of the engine itself explode away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too much energy is bad:&lt;/strong&gt; It's possible to have too much energy in the system even when things are going &quot;perfectly.&quot;  Imagine a theoretical system where your turbo is 100% efficient (adds no heat during compression), your fueling system can pump in arbitrary amounts of fuel and your engine computer can keep up with all the demands.  Even in that highly imaginary situation, if you put enough energy in the cylinder, it's going to break.  The fundamental structural components of the system will eventually fail given enough stress.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life, such a perfect system is rare to impossible given our finite budgets.  However, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;apparently there is a good type where the engine produces more power&#xA;  for 5 seconds or so. Why just for say 5 seconds and not all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The answer is math&lt;/strong&gt; (specifically probability).  This sort of feature is most useful in auto racing where the driver needs that little extra edge to make the critical pass.  They're trading a burst of energy for an increase in system temperature, net strain on the engine and briefly increased risk of total system failure.  Roll the dice and hope it doesn't come up snake eyes during that five seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a race, that's often a reasonable trade-off.  Obviously, those of us driving on the street are usually operating without the benefit of an auto-racing team's budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough, &lt;strong&gt;overboost is usually straightforward to correct&lt;/strong&gt;.  It's almost certainly a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wastegate&lt;/a&gt; problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A wastegate is a valve that diverts exhaust gases away from the&#xA;  turbine wheel in a turbocharged engine system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By diverting exhaust gases away, the engine computer can hold the turbine to a peak speed.  As a consequence, the compressor side will also be limited to a peak boost.  If something happens to keep the wastegate from functioning as needed, your turbo is going to try to keep accelerating up to infinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we have discussed, it isn't going to get there.  Boom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T15:13:49.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:38:19.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always tighten to align with cotter pin hole on tapered fittings and most anything else that DOESN'T INVOLVE THE LOAD ON A BEARING. I've written and edited dozens of factory tech manuals and technician training programs for auto manufacturers. Doesn't make me an expert but I write like one.  ;&amp;lt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13112" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T18:38:19.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22392" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:39:23.830" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L with a 2 pin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f81b3cc86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;camshaft position sensor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up to the ecu to monitor it and was wondering how often it should be switching from Low to High.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scan tool is returning a data sample approximately every 75 milliseconds ( I was logging 6 pid's ) and it was almost always returning low.  Very rarely it would show a burst of high readings for about 450 milliseconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a dohc engine I'm assuming the cam rotates at half the crank speed, so if it's idling at 600 rpm lets say then the cam will rotate 4 or 5 times per second.  So if the crank has say 34 teeth and the cam gear 68 then a tooth would pass about 340 times per second or every 3 milliseconds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the signal would switch every 3ms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is there is no DTC code relating to the camshaft sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try logging again with just the one pid to try and get more frequent data samples?  Or is my only option to backprobe the wire with an oscilloscope?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took off the valve cover, and apparently the cam sensor reads a bump on the camshaft gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YMAiX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YMAiX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so at 600 rpm idle and camshaft running half speed, I should see the bump go by on a scan tool or oscilloscope about 5 times per second - i.e. the signal should go high about every 200 milliseconds?  So even if I'm getting a data sample every 75ms I should see it with no problem I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T19:53:20.680" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T11:21:04.407" Title="How Often Should A Camshaft Sensor Switch From Low to High?" Tags="|cam-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:42:56.580" Score="2" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got this 2002 Mitsubishi Galant. I knew it had couple of problems with it, as I'm decently handy with cars. I thought I could figure out the problem. I'm a bit stumped on this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first problem is starting the car. I assume both the problems are related but it could be separate problems. When I start the car normally it will stay on for a couple seconds then the engine dies out. My radio and everything is still on, but if I start the car and rev the engine it solves the problem and the car will stay on. Also about a week of this the car started making a high pitch ringing around where the throttle is. I'm certain it's not a belt and it only does this when I'm idling. If I rev the engine just a little bit it stops. I started jiggling hoses to see if the ring would stop assuming it could have been an air leak, but nothing. I think its a idle problem but I'm not to sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas regarding the issues I've stated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13113" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T22:29:43.757" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:56:00.837" Title="2002 Mitsubishi Galant - Squeaking and starting problems" Tags="|engine|noise|mitsubishi|stall|galant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:59:38.960" Score="2" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a Mazda 323f for a few years now with no faults. But now, it's running poorly with a loss of power that then picks up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the coil pack and it ran great for a few weeks but then loss of power again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I swapped: plugs, leads, fuel pump. Still no joy and getting ready to get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone told me that it was too much air getting in. But you do get a smell fuel so I thought the coil-pack may have gone again but sounds alright when engine is not under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13114" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T22:26:48.073" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T15:34:32.500" Title="Mazda 323 F is losing power when driving?" Tags="|engine|mazda-323f|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22389" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:19:14.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f81b3cc86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repair link&lt;/a&gt; provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor is a permanent magnet output coil&#xA;  device that operates within a 5 volt DC reference range, and monitors&#xA;  the speed and position of the camshaft. A reluctor is attached&#xA;  directly to the camshaft, and is used to generate a digital signal as&#xA;  it passes the magnetic coil; the alternating lines of magnetic flux&#xA;  are used by the sensor to produce a digital pulse. The CMP signal is&#xA;  used by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to calculate ignition&#xA;  timing, firing order, fuel injector timing, and misfire diagnostics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of teeth on the reluctor will play a role in determining the frequency of the sensor's signal and not the number of teeth on the camshaft gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Mazda's CPS relies on a single notch that has a angle duration of around 5° per revolution, or 360°. At idle (600 crank rpm), the camshaft will be spinning at 300 rpm, or 5 rps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the camshaft gear will complete one revolution once every 200 ms, of which the notch will pass by the camshaft sensor in less than 3 ms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyquist%E2%80%93Shannon_sampling_theorem#Nonuniform_sampling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nyquist theorem&lt;/a&gt;, for your scan tool to be able to pick up the change in signal as the notch passes by, it would have to poll the device every 1 ms (more than double the expected signal frequency, 1 kHz in this case). Using a frequency lower than the Nyquist frequency will remove the guarantee that the sampling rate will be able to capture changes in the signal from the CPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that this is at idle; the higher the crank rpm, the higher your sampling rate needs to be. Given the inherent latencies of most scan tools, I think your best option would be to backprobe the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T11:21:04.407" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T11:21:04.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22390" CreationDate="2015-11-07T20:44:34.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could be correct about the air leak.  The inlet (or exhaust) manifold gasket could be acting like a reed and resonating as air flows over it.  It could explain the problems when starting, too.  If you check the spark plugs they may highlight a week mixture on one cylinder, if the leak is near one of the inlet ports.  One plug may be lighter in colour than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad idle could also be caused by a build up of gunk around the throttle, so check that, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T20:44:34.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22395" CreationDate="2015-11-07T22:58:50.587" Score="2" ViewCount="9712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've installed LED lights in my car and I wanted to find a power source that will let it stay on for a while after turning off my car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the power windows still work after turning off my car until I open and close the door. So I tried tapping that fuse (42), but my lights stayed on even after closing the door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The door power lock seemed to work similarly, but with a short time delay. It also kept providing power a couple minutes after turning off my car (fuse 15). Why do these still provide power when the features don't work? Are these two constant power sources? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I just noticed there is a door lock fuse at 41. I will test that next)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, I've resorted to tapping the fuse for the accessory power, but the power cuts off as soon as I turn off my car. Is there any fuse I can tap that will provide power for a short while after turning off my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda Civic 2014 LX CVT Sedan &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdRKe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdRKe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Interior Fuse Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13104" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T04:25:04.243" Title="Is there a fuse that will turn off with a delay after turning off car?" Tags="|power|power-windows|fuse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22394" CreationDate="2015-11-07T23:36:53.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a modern car, the ECUs (electronic control units) will be deciding when different functions will work.  For example, it knows to switch power to the window circuits until you open and close the door.  The ECU could be controlling a relay that switches the power to the windows off when you shut the door.  The fuse that you are connecting to will be before the relay in the circuit.  Therefore if you wanted to tap into this power, you would have to connect your LEDs to the output of the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively and more likely, there may not be a relay, and it may be that the ECU is watching the window buttons and deciding that it will only control the windows up until you have shut the door.  This will be the same for the door locks, again the ECU will be making the decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There won't be a fuse that keeps the power on for a period of time after switching the ignition off and adding additional load to the electronics on modern cars could cause all sorts of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You could use one of these&lt;/strong&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/MP7505-Car-Ceiling-Light-Delay-Off-Timer-20-second-10W-12VDC-Electronic-Board-/140510927871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/MP7505-Car-Ceiling-Light-Delay-Off-Timer-20-second-10W-12VDC-Electronic-Board-/140510927871&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T21:36:42.073" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T21:36:42.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22412" CreationDate="2015-11-08T02:16:17.713" Score="3" ViewCount="47257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that one of them is for AirBag (probably the thick yellow one), but what is the other one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is Chevrolet Aveo 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen on driver's side there is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thick yellow cable (update - it is AirBag); and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable that contains black and brown wires (update - it is Seat belt sensor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HEQZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HEQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the passenger's side there are &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; thick yellow cables that &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; go &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the seat - what is their exact purpose? One gotta be the AirBag cable just like on the driver's side, but what is the other one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUlqt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUlqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Passenger&amp;#39;s side picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am asking this is because the AirBag light is on. My car does not give any codes on dashboard by blinking a code - it is solid red. I also went to Chevrolet dealership who supposedly should have had the right reader to get SRS codes, however, they said that they did not see any codes that are directly related with AirBag even though AirBag light was on when I brought car. Instead they recommended to replace battery because it is still the original one from 2007. However, I did not fully buy into that idea, because car starts completely normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I feel that I want to figure this AirBag issue on my own now. After disconnecting battery and waiting 20 minutes I cleaned those 2 thick cable connectors of possible rust with WD-40, but it did not help. So I am trying to figure out if there are any other low hanging fruits I can do at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="10859" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T23:45:45.467" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T19:03:17.323" Title="Two cable connectors under each car seat - what are they for?" Tags="|chevrolet|wiring|supplemental-restraint-system|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T10:39:03.593" Score="3" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Scion. I changed the water pump and alternator. After I put it back together I have no power steering, power door locks or windows, Tail or brake lights. Half the warning lights on the instrument panel are lit. I checked all the fuses I know about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Toyota service departments are closed on weekends I took it to O'Reilly auto parts where I tried to have them use a diagnostic tool on it. The guy looked at me baffled and said it did not recognize that it was reading a car and told me he cannot help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13116" LastEditorUserId="4339" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T11:57:43.310" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T12:45:48.263" Title="Electronic disaster after replacing water pump and alternator on a 2008 Scion?" Tags="|electrical|scion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22398" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22399" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" Score="0" Body="A five-door hatchback which is sold in the US and Canadian markets by Toyota under the Scion brand name." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T10:59:08.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22400" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22401" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" Score="0" Body="Brand name sold by Toyota in the US and Canadian markets." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T11:00:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22397" CreationDate="2015-11-08T14:46:31.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more I think about this, the more I am thinking that it is the Body Control Module (BCM) ECU that has failed.  I believe all of those functions will be controlled by the BCM.  It is also probably pulling down the CAN Bus which is causing the diagnostics tool to not connect.  It may have failed when reconnecting the battery, or possibly the alternator is producing too high a voltage which has damaged it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to find out if the car has a separate ECU for the power steering, but haven't worked it out yet.  According to this website it has electric power steering, so that would fit with it being an ECU problem - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/scion/xd/2008/features-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.edmunds.com/scion/xd/2008/features-specs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T16:37:30.173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T16:37:30.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T19:13:48.190" Score="2" ViewCount="930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any terminial command I can use to set the polling interval on an elm327 device?  I know that for example obdwiz allows setting the polling interval through it's graphical interface, but I want to do it manually from the command terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T07:52:47.450" Title="Setting Polling Interval on a Elm327 adaptor" Tags="|elm-327|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22394" CreationDate="2015-11-08T19:37:29.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We wired our LED's to interior light via switch on door as interior light stay's on for a while until car is locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13114" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T19:37:29.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22373" CreationDate="2015-11-08T19:43:45.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the fuse or you could be un-lucky and both bulbs could have blown on high beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13114" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T19:43:45.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T20:15:54.457" Score="0" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 Ford Explorer began having issues at the end of a moderately long drive home while going approximately 60 miles per hour (not sure if related; I drive that speed often). The speedometer dropped to 0 mph and would only jump up when the car shifted into a higher gear, and it has been doing this since. The overdrive light also flashes sometimes, usually during high speeds. In addition, the shifting feels uncomfortable, as if the car doesn't know when to shift. I believe this problem is with the VSS or ABS Sensor, but I'm not sure. I have not had issues with ABS kicking in inappropriately, and if it's relevant, when driving near 70 mph my car has a tendency to make a rather unpleasant noise like it's failing to shift, so I avoid that, but it may have happened on the drive. Any suggestions? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13121" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T08:28:26.700" Title="1996 Ford Explorer Speedometer and Shifting issues, O/D light flashing" Tags="|electrical|ford|transmission|speedometer|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22652" CreationDate="2015-11-08T20:47:51.257" Score="5" ViewCount="3162" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the &lt;em&gt;Lovell Factor&lt;/em&gt; and how does it apply to engines and engine design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; How is it calculated and what do the calculated numbers indicate? How is it useful in engine design? (I'm looking for more specifics about what it means and how it is utilized.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T16:45:02.350" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T18:50:26.703" Title="What is the Lovell Factor?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22410" CreationDate="2015-11-08T20:55:45.203" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to refurbish my alloys and I'm looking for the spray paint colour for my alloys. Can anyone recommend a way to find this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13122" LastEditorUserId="4339" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T09:38:20.420" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T09:38:20.420" Title="Where can I find out the colour for the alloys of a Nissan Micra K12 sport+ 2005?" Tags="|wheels|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22409" CreationDate="2015-11-08T21:01:00.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a paint shop. They can look up the color codes for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T21:01:00.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T22:16:49.283" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 F250.  I was driving the other day and my foot bumped the switch for high beam/ low beam on the floor board, next to the parking brake and clutch pedal.  I noticed, as my headlamp was turned on, the lights would turn off while my parking lights stayed on as well as my dash lights.  So I tried bumping the switch with my foot but this time on purpose and the headlamps went right back on.  The next evening the same had happened but this time the headlamps would not turn back on.  How would I go about troubleshooting my problem?  Where should I start?  I am assuming with my fuse first?  Then where to after is it's not my fuse?  Please help, my truck is useless when the sun goes down, like having curfew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13123" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T22:16:49.283" Title="Headlight troubleshooting, where do I start?" Tags="|headlight|f-250|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22396" CreationDate="2015-11-08T22:59:11.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plain white connector with two wires, black and brown with a white stripe, go to a switch in the seat belt buckle. This turns off the warning light on the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow connector is for the side impact airbag inflator located in the outer seatback side bolster.  These wires are carefully protected and colored yellow to let all who see then to work with caution. Do not touch this system without understanding and following all the manufactures cautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this model there is an optional device in the passenger seat to detect if there is a person in that seat. That is the second yellow wire under the passenger seat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- Update ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned in your updated post that the SRS dash warning light is on but no with codes stored in the unit. The most common cause of this is a failure inside the SRS control unit. There is no way I know of to test for it except to substitute a known good unit. It is possible but unlikely that the cause is in the inflator circuits.  A short to ground on the wire from the SRS light to the control unit can cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These control units are usually designed to so that the will not reset if the battery is disconnected; for liability reasons. An appropriate scan tool is needed. This is the first thing I would do when testing this system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low battery voltage can cause SRS codes but these should clear with an appropriate scan tool command. The voltage can go too low during cranking even without a driver perception of the problem. The voltage should stay above 10 volts at all times during engine crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend working on this system. One wrong move could result in serious injury. Even those trained on these systems are wary of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T01:56:44.143" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T01:56:44.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T23:07:23.947" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OYHE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OYHE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;This appears to possibly be for a piece of farm equipment. I have no idea what it does. If any one out there can help I would really appreciate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPjAs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPjAs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastEditorUserId="13124" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T23:26:51.953" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:35:45.987" Title="What's is this part?" Tags="|fastener|lawnmower|john-deere|compatibility|connector|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-15T21:22:30.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-08T23:37:03.507" Score="5" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hired a mechanic to replace my crankshaft pulley sensor. He ended up doing something wrong. We tried to crank it and it sounded like a dead battery and the sensor broke and hit the oil pump. Put a hole in it and both the timing belts broke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if the valves are still good? Please help, I need to know what do. i have the parts to fix it but how do i know if the valves are still good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13125" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:50:46.017" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:50:46.017" Title="1997 Honda Odyssey - How do I know if the valves are still good after both the timing belts broke?" Tags="|engine|honda|odyssey|valve-timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22414" CreationDate="2015-11-09T01:29:51.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you have a 4 cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remove the valve cover. If the valves are adjustable then unadjust them until all the valves are free. Remove the spark plugs. Use a leakdown tester to induce compressed air into the cylinders. The tester will shows the amount of leak down and where it is coming from. If it's coming out of the tail pipe then bent exhaust valve. If it's coming out of the intake manifold then its a bent intake valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 to 30 percent leakage is tolerable. Anything beyond that probably means bent valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T01:29:51.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39067" CreationDate="2015-11-09T02:12:57.133" Score="5" ViewCount="3330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Acura TL, which specifies &quot;premium&quot; fuel.  However, I know that the engine has anti-knock sensors that retard timing to prevent detonation if somebody accidentally fills it with lower-octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the ECU decide when to try returning to its preferred timing after detecting knock?  E.g., does it wait until the fuel door is opened?  Does it try every time the engine is started?  With some frequency even during the same drive?  When it detects a change in incoming air mass?  And how does this strategy vary among manufacturers and engine model years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T14:08:34.347" Title="How often does my engine check fuel octane?" Tags="|octane|knock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22416" CreationDate="2015-11-09T03:09:12.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only sensors used to determine fuel quality are the knock and mixture (Oxygen) sensors. The adjustments are continuous whenever the engine is running. &#xA;The vehicles I have experience with, this includes your Acura, all use this method. This method is accurate and not especially challenging from an engineering perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempts in the past to determine alcohol content with in tank sensors by some OEM's resulted in prompt modifications due to severe driveabilty problems. This was done for flex fuel models. A far more challenging problem than changes in fuel octane rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T03:09:12.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22407" CreationDate="2015-11-09T08:28:26.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may be correct about the VSS.  It certainly would confuse the automatic transmission and would cause problems on the speedo.  Why it would spring into life when the transmission changes gear is a bit puzzling.  The VSS could also be involved in comparisons of speed by the ABS system, so could be affecting the ABS.  If you are not able to get error codes to back up your thoughts, then the VSS sounds like the first sensor to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T08:28:26.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22403" CreationDate="2015-11-09T09:57:03.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polling interval is simply how often you request data from the port. There is a hardware side baud rate that you must meet (probably 38400bps for ELM327) and usually you cannot change that as it is determined by the protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software you mentioned simply lets you set the rate at which you send/receive data bits to meet this requirement (there are multiple standards). If you use a terminal application then it should let you set the baudrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If it actually lets you set the polling interval then it simply changes the frequency at which it inquires the port, it is fully software dependent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T07:52:47.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T07:52:47.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T11:11:29.073" Score="2" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband added 5L of oil to the car, he was told to add another 5L.  Now the car makes a very loud sound almost like a vacuum. The car switches itself off when started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed picks up very slowly (if at all) and fuel consumption has increased greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13129" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T13:39:53.503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:22:14.573" Title="Filled oil with 10L - the car now has problems with the engine cutting out or badly vibrating the car" Tags="|engine|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22432" CreationDate="2015-11-09T11:48:38.310" Score="5" ViewCount="7051" Body="&lt;p&gt;While looking for the reason of occasional misfires I checked if my spark plug wires are arcing at night. There was no textbook arcing with popping sounds and pretty lights, but there was extremely slight, barely visible arcing when wires are moved near the block (or even when I put my finger near them, goes straight to it). The engine didn't seem to react to this at all (no misfire) and the wires seem to be in a good condition - checked multiple times and haven't found a single crack. Spraying water on the leads makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for the wires to have this extremely slight arcing, or is this a sign of an ignition system problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T05:18:36.367" Title="Very slight arcing of good spark plug wires" Tags="|engine|ignition|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22420" CreationDate="2015-11-09T14:21:10.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did not state make model and year of car. Most average cars hold somewhere between 4 and 6 liters of oil. 10 liters is overfilling the oil even if the engine was completely empty. Don't keep trying to start the car. Drain out the oil that is in the car. Fill the oil back up with the correct amount. Hope that the engine is not damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T14:21:10.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22408" CreationDate="2015-11-09T14:25:31.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Lovell Factor is the &quot;mean gas speed of the inlet valves&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculating this number allows you to design the intake and exhaust valves to accommodate the higher RPM potential of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the following method to calculate the Lovell Factor of any engine as long as you know the key parameters below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bore = B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stroke = S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM @ which you want the lovell factor. = RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of valves per cylinder = valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diameter of the inlet valve = Dia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Divide B by 2&#xA;Multiply the result with 2&#xA;areaofbore = above result*3.14 or PI&#xA;total spin= RPM * S&#xA;total spin=total spin*2&#xA;total spin=total spin / 60000&#xA;Dia= Dia/ 2  &#xA;Dia= Dia* Dia&#xA;Dia=Dia* 3.14 or PI&#xA;valve = valve * Dia&#xA;ratio = valve / areaofbore &#xA;total spin= total spin/ ratio&#xA;lovell factor = total spin&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Lovell factor is value of &quot;Total Spin&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, this is a silly number and should not be something you have to consider while building an engine for example in Formula-1 where the RPMs go upwards of 15000 to 19000 you need to be extremely precise on each and every detail this is where the Lovell Factor actually matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Formula-1 Car has a lovell factor of 77m/s @ 19000 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nissan GTR has a lovell factor of 52.43m/s @ 7500 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It basically means how fast your engine can breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per my limited knowledge the Lovell Factor is only usually considered while designing high performance engines like F1 where minute details in the engine design determine which car wins, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if there is a &quot;Bad&quot; number since each engine is different and unless you have anything to compare with the lovell factor of your engine might be high for the RPM it is currently in which means that the valves are too small thus increasing the Mean gas speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example having a high rev limit &amp;amp; low comparative Lovell factor combination is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T12:04:19.327" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T12:04:19.327" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22431" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:30:19.487" Score="8" ViewCount="79445" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car battery has gone completely flat after leaving my car parked up for about a month. Tried turning over the car today, and none of the lights on the dash light up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ran a multimeter across the terminals, and it shows 2 volts. This battery is under a year old in age, and has never been jumped before. It is a value brand battery, so cheap and not great. I can jump the car, but I imagine it will put undue stress on the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it even worth my time bringing the battery to the local car parts place for a trickle charge, or should I bite the bullet and get a new battery for roughly 100EUR ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T17:53:19.440" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:47:19.190" Title="2 Volts on Car Battery" Tags="|battery|alternator|jump-start|battery-drain|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:33:44.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery puts out just 2V across the terminals then it is severely discharged; in all probability beyond the point of recharging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no point in trying to charge it. I've had a battery that put out only 9V which couldn't be revived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T18:11:01.703" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:11:01.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22352" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:52:17.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hydraulic motor/pump off industrial machinery(dumptrucks, etc...) would be another option for a PD oil pump. It would be easier to assemble too since those are designed with common mounts and fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also commonly handle pressures over 2000psi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T15:52:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:57:31.943" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the number of variables involved in whether an engine will knock on a given fuel in a given environment: How can an end user determine whether the engine is retarding timing due to fuel octane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the relevant ECU parameters should be readable on the OBD, so researching the codes and running a continuous scanner would do it.  Is there anything easier or more obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T16:59:31.693" Title="How can I tell if I would benefit from higher octane fuel?" Tags="|obd-ii|octane|knock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22394" CreationDate="2015-11-09T16:20:22.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try circuit #34 or #35. You don't necessarily have to do this in the vehicles fusebox. For instance; when I used to install a lot of Alpine audio/visual equipment, their ceiling-mounted LCD/DVD players had LEDs which required wiring up separately. So I would splice their power-feed directly into (out of) the original interior light's pre-existing wiring loom. I would typically include an inline fuse, solder the join, wrap it nice, and stash it in the hoodlining (ie. the ceiling upholstery). The LEDs would typically fade out with all the other interior lights, 30 seconds or so after removing the key from the ignition, and/or closing, and/or locking the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T16:20:22.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22520" CreationDate="2015-11-09T16:59:04.470" Score="4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a Clio from a friend, but I need to replace the stereo in it. I've been given an old Kenwood stereo to replace the original stereo with so I can stick my aux cable into the machine and play some decent music, but I'm not 100% sure what extra cables I need so I can have both the new stereo and the remote by the steering wheel working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand from the model of stereo and a bit of tinkering and investigating that I need at least the 16 pin kenwood adaptor - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Kenwood-car-stereo-radio-CD-player-wiring-loom-16-Pin-adaptor-KDC-KRC-/371150576513?hash=item566a4c5b81:g:WV4AAOSwdpxUU2al&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; seems to be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'd like to keep the controls on the stalk working - will I need to buy a separate loom for this (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc99-x12-renault-clio-laguna-kangoo-safrane-twingo-stalk-adaptor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) or is there a patch cable or adaptor I can buy which will fit between the above adaptor and the existing plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a lot of extra wiring to cram into what appears to be a small space!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T14:48:12.337" Title="Clio 2001 stereo question" Tags="|audio|renault|clio|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22427" CreationDate="2015-11-09T16:59:31.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a live scan running is by far the easiest way to tell if the ECU is pulling timing while the engine is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, you need to be aware of what the manufacturer's requirement for an engine is, such as it's performance level. Several situations which call for higher octane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbo/Super charging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High static compression ratio (10+:1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these situations are a lot more common today and require the higher octane to support the engine and keep it from pulling timing. Without the specific knowledge provided by the manufacturer (or known due to specific engine build requirements), the individual is flying blind. The engine can pull timing to prevent knock without the driver ever knowing it is happening ... that is, to a point. The ECU will only pull so much timing. Once it gets to a point, knock will occur (that point is going to be different for every setup). Once the ECU has as much timing as it can, knock will occur and the driver can then start hearing it. By that time, things can get ugly, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought here is that if a combustion chamber becomes encrusted with carbon deposits, the engine can start knocking. While higher octane fuel can mask this situation, it really isn't helping anything. It's by far better to have the combustion chambers cleaned and to then utilize the lower octane fuel than it is to just run the higher octane. A clean engine is a happy engine (both inside and out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T16:59:31.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:07:27.240" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have a battery which isn't that old (most batteries have about a five year life span), I'd suggest you put it on a charger and try to recharge it. This will allow the battery to come back to full charge without putting an undue stress on your alternator. You have to decide if the time spent in recharging the battery is worth your time. To me, 100EUR would be well worth my time as long as I have a spare vehicle to utilize in the mean time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this episode of having to recharge the battery will have taken a toll on the battery (shortened its lifespan), it will most likely be able to take the charge and will work fine for you for the foreseeable future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to think about, though, is if the battery is only a year old, it may still have the manufacturer's warranty in place. If this is available, you may just take it in and say, &quot;I'll take my replacement, please.&quot; ... especially if there is a priority need for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:07:27.240" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22421" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:16:28.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If wires are working correctly, you shouldn't be seeing &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; signs of electrical leakage. As it stands, if you are seeing electrical leakage, I'd be ready to purchase new wires as they will need replacement in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test some wires by doing a resistance check. &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/article-spark-plug-wires-basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Checker Auto states&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can test some types of spark plug wires with an ohmmeter. Basically, there are three spark plug wire types, but more on that later. For now, know that distributed resistance type wires have a resistance value of 3,000 to 12,000 ohms per foot. MAG and fixed resistor spark plug wires have much lower resistance per foot. But the actual resistance per foot isn’t important. It’s the consistency of the readings between each wire that determines if the spark plug wire is good or bad. So, measure the length and resistance of each spark plug wire and write it down. Then compare the resistance values. A bad spark plug wire will have much more resistance than another wire of equal length. That’s your signal that it’s time to change spark plug wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are (basically) three different types of wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distributed resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inductance (MAG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed resistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only measure the resistance on the Distributed resistance type. The inductance (MAG) and fixed resistor have other variables in play which would not allow you to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:16:28.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22420" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:22:14.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 litres of oil is an immense amount for the average car. The way I read your statement, your husband added 5+5 litres of oil to your car, without even previously removing the oil that was already in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fisrt of all, find out how much oil your car actually needs. Then drain the engine and refill with the appropriate amount, as already stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in my view the possibility of engine damage isn't negligible, it'd be better to actually get the car towed to a shop, get them to change the oil and check for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please bear in mind that to get better answers you need to be more specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13130" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:22:14.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-09T17:50:26.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you are likely to &quot;put undue stress on the alternator.&quot; It is a myth in my opinion that alternators can't handle charging a battery, Alternators are literally motors run in reverse and are designed to handle a lot of current. The only issue with charging a batter is it will get a bit warmer than usual and that shouldn't effect it as long as it dosn't get so hot you melt the insulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12320" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T17:50:26.113" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22375" CreationDate="2015-11-09T18:23:32.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm curious why people don't just use water?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People do use water, as Jafro shows in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/CcF16RAJtic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this epic video&lt;/a&gt;, but he also qualifies his statement in the video description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...) that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So water can leave behind deposits or result in corrosion. Given you have just lapped the valves, I'd avoid using straight water for peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And is a little leak like 1 drop every few minutes acceptable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or should it have no visible leak for x amount of time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video explains this quite well. You're best off waiting for something like 30-40 minutes in order to see if the meniscus has dropped. You should also inspect the inlet and exhaust ports for droplets to help pinpoint the source of the leak(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:23:32.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T19:04:48.310" Score="5" ViewCount="34502" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford F250 4x4 brake pedal goes to the floor when you start the truck and stay's to the floor until you shut the engine off then it returns? The brake booster, master cyl, rotors, pads, brake lines, drums, brake shoes, and brake cylinders have all been replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13133" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T22:34:41.653" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T20:10:32.963" Title="Why does my brake pedal go to the floor when i start the truck up?" Tags="|ford|brakes|4wd|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22437" CreationDate="2015-11-09T19:52:11.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the valves in the brake servo (booster) is stuck open.  When you start the engine the vacuum produced by the engine (or a separate vacuum pump) is used to assist braking pressure from your foot.  As you press the brake pedal, a valve in the servo opens to allow the vacuum to pull against the diaphragm in the servo to assist you.  If a valve is stuck open it will keep sucking until the pedal goes to the floor and will only release once the engine has stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably it is putting the brakes on when this happens.  If this is true, it is nothing to do with bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design of the servo, there may be a pipe that connects the servo casing to the servo valve block, if this is leaking or missing, the same symptoms would occur.  Any air leak into the casing in the rear of the servo body will also produce these symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T08:07:34.520" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T08:07:34.520" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22441" CreationDate="2015-11-09T22:32:59.383" Score="10" ViewCount="36005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently I should avoid full throttle until my engine temperature is warmed up fully (to 90 degrees on the gauge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I just get in and drive normally after about 10 seconds, and then after about 2-3 mins I join a fast road with a hill, and drive along with my foot flat to the floor. It normally warms up to about 85-90 degrees in about 10-15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone recently told me this is bad, as it &quot;damages my engine&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this true?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I damage my engine by applying full throttle when the engine is not up to temperature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does also revving over 3500RPM before the engine is fully warmed up damage it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2003 Opel Agila - 1.2 (Z12XE engine). No turbo or anything. The redline is at 6500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I don't drive at the redline. I drive in the middle of the rev range normally, but 5k as a max&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T16:46:36.230" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T12:58:32.063" Title="Should I avoid full throttle when driving with a cold engine?" Tags="|engine|opel|cold-start|engine-theory|agila|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22440" CreationDate="2015-11-09T23:02:27.663" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is bad for your engine for a multitude of reasons. In fact, it's not good to run your engine at full throttle for extended periods of time unless the engine is designed to take it, whether it's cold &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; warmed up. Believe me when I say your little 1.2l Agila engine is not designed to take that kind of stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start by suggesting that engines, while having a red line are not meant to &lt;em&gt;live&lt;/em&gt; at the red line. In other words, the red line is a point not to go past, but also not a place to keep your engine running at. Very few engines are designed that way (NASCAR and F1 engines are exceptions, that's for sure ... but they are completely warmed up before they are run at the engine speeds they are required to run at). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to think about is metal can stand only so much stress before it will fail. The stress on metal is accumulative. I've posted this graph before, but I'll post it again because it bears repeating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4IS8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4IS8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This graph is pulled from a book written by Carroll Smith called &lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt;. The graph shows that metal has a fatigue limit, or a point at which repeated cycles will have little to no effect on a metal part (meaning a part will last a long, long time if the stress put upon it is below this level). Above this level, the stress put upon the part detracts from its longevity ... the higher the stress, the sooner the part failure. Like I said, this effect is accumulative ... it adds up over time. About this, Carroll Smith said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simplistically put, under repeated (cyclic as opposed to continuous) stress the capacity of a metal to withstand stress gradually diminishes and, in most cases, cannot be restored. Metals which are subjected to fluctuating loads can and do break after a finite number of load cycles (of, more accurately, stress cycles) in which the loads applied and the resultant stresses imposed are always below the ultimate strength of the metal. This type of failure is termed &quot;fatigue failure.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what I was saying, only he says it much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until an engine is fully warmed up, the oil doesn't flow as well as it should through the engine. By putting the extra stress on the engine, you are not giving the engine the benefit of the free flowing oil it deserves. This causes additional stress as well as extra wear on the bearings, crankshaft journals, cam journals and lobes, plus the rest of the valve train. Seals don't seal as well when cold, so wear out faster due to more drag on their surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no magic number I can tell you to keep it under as far as engine speed goes. Just remember what I've said above ... The higher the stress, the shorter the engine will live. The important thing here is to ensure you are not abusing your engine (as it sounds like you are). Pull out easy and accelerate easy as well. If you have to floor it to get up to speed, you may need to think about varying your route to allow for the warm up period. If you have to keep it floored to keep up with traffic, either consider getting a vehicle which can handle the speed of traffic or take a side road which will allow you to travel at a slower speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T23:02:27.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2015-11-10T00:42:52.453" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a cliking noise when starting car and engine wont start IT MIGHT JUST MEAN THAT YOUR BATTERY IS TOO LOW TO GET IT STARTED. So before going in deeper just GET A JUMP START FOR AT LEAST 10 MINUTES (DONT TRY TO START) and after 10 mins of battaeries attached and other car reving a little THEN YOU CAN&#xA;TURN KEY TO START AND ALL WILL BE OK if youré lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let unscrupulous mechnics lead you into changing starter, solenoids whatever, before you try the above! After a couple of months of no use, batteries wll go down - JUST REMOVE THE NEGATIVE PORT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CHEERS, Lyn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13139" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T00:42:52.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22451" CreationDate="2015-11-10T01:51:29.220" Score="2" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a piece of advice about my temperature gauge. I want to determine what is wrong: my sensor or my gauge panel. I tried to disconnect sensor connector and connect it to &lt;strong&gt;new sensor&lt;/strong&gt;, but &lt;strong&gt;gauge didn't move&lt;/strong&gt; (it is below 0 angle), so I didn't change a sensor yet. Also, radiator fans are working normally. Can I use multimeter or something? Where to start? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13141" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T06:55:00.107" Title="Accord 2002 SE Temperature gauge" Tags="|accord|sensor|gauges|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-10T02:33:11.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 12v lead acid battery is flat dead at no less than 10v.  If it really were 2v, that would indicate that several cells had shorted out, and you wouldn't even be able to jump start it, as the battery itself would be burning off most of the power the jumper cables can transfer as heat.  The fact that you managed to jump it indicates that you read it incorrectly.  Double check your multimeter settings ( make sure it reads 12-15v on the running car you are using as the power source to jump ).  If you somehow did measure it right, and still managed to jump it, it is a miracle and you should drive straight to the auto parts store and get a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13142" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T02:33:11.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22444" CreationDate="2015-11-10T03:20:03.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to do a resistance test on it to see how it's doing. Different resistance, different temp. Check it against the new one at the same temp. Should have the same value if good. You would be using a multimeter between the connections where the plug goes into the sensor (or however it's wired). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T03:20:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-10T03:39:30.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lead sulfate crystals form on the battery plates as the battery discharges.  As the battery becomes more discharged the crystals go from being soft and fluffy to much harder.  Recharged in time, the lead sulfate is converted back into sulfuric acid and lead.  A month is entirely too long for a battery to remain discharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reversing a serious sulfation condition, even for high quality deep cycle batteries, requires special battery chargers which are able to charge at higher voltages (about 15 volts) than what most consumer-grade chargers produce (about 14.4 volts) and well above what trickle chargers produce (about 13.8 volts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car batteries aren't deep cycle batteries, they are &quot;Starter, Lights, Ignition&quot; (SLI) batteries with thinner and more numerous plates, designed to provide very high current for very short periods of time.  Attempting to perform the controlled over-charging needed to equalize an SLI battery can cause the plates to warp from the heat, or shed plate material and develop shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long and short of it is that your battery is pretty much ruined.  You might be able to get it to appear to hold a charge, but sulfated batteries have significantly reduced capacity due to reduced active plate surface and material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to go-to web site for most battery questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge&quot;&gt;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T03:39:30.157" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T03:44:48.393" Score="8" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I replaced the &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00F68FCJU&quot;&gt;roller assembly&lt;/a&gt; in the left-side sliding door of my 2006 Honda Odyssey, because it had been sticking and not rolling very well.  One of the white rollers was indeed shattered when I took it out, so it did need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the door is still sticking when we try to open it.  A closer inspection shows that the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;top&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; corner (toward the rear of the car) hits the door frame, causing the door to stop and return to the closed position.  If we push (not very hard) on the top corner from inside the car, the door opens just fine.  It always closes fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run across this?  Is there another piece that can be replaced, or an adjustment that can be made, to change the clearance at the top corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T18:49:50.520" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T13:56:45.467" Title="2006 Honda Odyssey sliding door stuck at *top*" Tags="|honda|repair|door|odyssey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T03:50:47.730" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a ford falcon au 2000 v8 ute. Drove my ute to the local shopping centre, about a 2 min drive &amp;amp; now it wont start. Ive got power on the dash, relays &amp;amp; fuses all look intact &amp;amp; got plenty of fuel. One thing that is noticeable is that the brakes are heavy and the steering hard to turn. Has anyone had the same problem or know of a fix? Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13144" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T18:45:13.163" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T18:45:13.163" Title="my ute wont start" Tags="|ford|starting|starter|falcon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22444" CreationDate="2015-11-10T05:11:26.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to understanding this system is that the signal to the gauge unit comes from the PCM not the temp sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing is done at the connector at the PCM.  Disconnect the “C” connector. Ground the C24 wire Y/G, turn the power on, Leave the ground connected for no more than 30 seconds. The gauge should move to Hot. If it does the gauge and wiring is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the signal from the PCM by measuring the voltage at the computer it should be about 5 volts.  Note this is actually a 5 volt square waveform that is best tested with an oscilloscope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Care should be taken working in this area as expensive damage is possible if done wrong. Note that the the sensor is most likely OK if the check engine light is not on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T05:11:26.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22444" CreationDate="2015-11-10T06:49:57.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be able to get the datasheet of your sensor from the internet. With the help of a multimeter check the resistance of it at different temperatures. You will notice that the change in resistance per interval is greater than the last. The resistance change is not equal for every interval. The sensor is basically a thermister. (The radiator fan gets its signal from another sensor, basically a thermostat) &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRHo0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;accord 2002&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T06:55:00.107" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T06:55:00.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21463" CreationDate="2015-11-10T08:16:22.623" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the sign of a failing fuel pump either. A failing pump couldn't deliver the sufficient ammount of fuel when the fuel tank low on fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13146" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T08:16:22.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T09:06:51.080" Score="4" ViewCount="1557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to start my 2007 Ford KA this morning but it makes a very high pitched screeching sound. Almost like a grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car won't start at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please advise on what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13147" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T09:21:47.240" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:59:46.520" Title="Ford KA won't start" Tags="|ford|starting|ka|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22454" CreationDate="2015-11-10T09:20:44.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually the telltale sign of a weak battery. The grinding sound is typical when the starter motor isn't provided enough power to turn the engine over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have the battery tested to confirm that it is weak prior to replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T09:20:44.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22454" CreationDate="2015-11-10T09:30:05.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be a worn pinion on the starter motor or worn teeth on the ring gear on the fly wheel.  If you feel confident, you could - turn the ignition off, put the car in 4th gear (this will only work for a manual car), take your foot off the clutch and take the handbrake off, then try to nudge the car a little to get a different set of teeth on the flywheel exposed to the starter.  Put the handbrake back on, take it out of gear and try to restart.  If it now starts, then you need to get the starter/flywheel ring gear checked/fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best try this with someone else to give the car a nudge while you are in the car ready to press the foot brake if needed.  Don't try this if the car could roll away on a slope.  And only try it if you fully understand what you are trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be just a low battery as Zaid suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T09:30:05.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22440" CreationDate="2015-11-10T09:43:17.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine wears faster when you apply full/big throttle. It is not so bad if your engine is warmed up, and you are not driving like this all the time, this is why you have the rev range up to 6500.&#xA;When your engine is fully warmed up you can use the high revs for overtaking and going uphill. When the extra power is not needed switch to higher gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cold engine the engine wear is always higher because of several reasons eg.:&#xA;- your engine oil is designed to lubricate the moving parts the best on a specific operating temperature&#xA;- the gaps between the moving part are different on various temperatures (due to the thermal expansion) also designed for the operating temperature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying high revs/full throttle on a cold engine higher the risk of forming cracks in the cylinder head. (Also because of thermal expansion, imagine it: the outer side of your engine is cold and the inner side is getting a lot of heat because of the high ammount of fuel burned inside. If the heat distribution in the engine is uneven enough the cyilinder head can crack.) You can lower the stress caused by the thermal expansion on the engine if you wait with the high throttles until your engine warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10-15 minutes is a lot to reach the operating temperature especially with a hill along the road (except it is really, really cold out there).&#xA;I would suggest to consult with a mechanic it is possible that your thermostat is not functioning properly. (Left open even if the coolant is cold.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Cheap version: in the winter, on older cars people used to cover part of the cooling radiator in the engine bay to decrease the cooling performance allowing the engine to warm up faster.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic says all is OK with your cooling (or you don't want to visit one) I would choose an alternative route for the beginning of your trip to let the engine warm up before the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13146" LastEditorUserId="13146" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T12:58:32.063" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T12:58:32.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5481" CreationDate="2015-11-10T11:40:50.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cases where the culprit is not the switch, it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be the flasher relay in cars that have separate indicator flasher and hazard flasher relays. (Which is common for example in oldtimer cars and trucks that originally had no hazard flasher at all and then got an aftermarket one added after years.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to check for a faulty flasher relay.&lt;/strong&gt; To test if the relay is the problem, you can take it out and insert a wire bridge between input (pin 49) and output (pin 49a) instead. This is just a permanent connection where the flasher relay will create an intermittent &quot;flashing&quot; connection when operating, so it will not damage anything. Now when operating the indicator switch and it makes the indicator lights of one side light up (without the flashing), the relay is at fault. Otherwise, it could be the switch or fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Pin names are Geman DIN 72 551 ones. They would be X or B for the flasher relay input and L for the output in USA and UK – &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kfz.josefscholz.de/Klemmenbezeichnung.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13149" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T11:40:50.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-10T12:13:09.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is worth trying to charge it.  However it might be worth you purchasing a charger if this scenario is likely to play out again in the future.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR&lt;/strong&gt; - Try charging the battery it is probably fine.  Disconnect the battery from the car when not driving it for a week or more.  Consider buying a good battery charger to recover the battery if you forget to dicsonnect it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Tool Long Version&lt;/strong&gt; - Some models of car will drain a perfect battery to near dead in 4~6 weeks while left parked up.  This is a fault in the design of the car, not a problem with the battery.  It could also be a repairable fault with the car if it suddenly starts happening when it never did before.  I had an old Jaguar XJ6 (x300) that would drain a perfect 120AH battery to stone dead in about 5 weeks.  This was normal for that make and age of car.  Nothing is wrong with the battery when this happens (although it may age the battery rapidly it it happens often).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my battery was really flat it would only register a few volts.  If it was only a little bit flat (after 2~3 weeks) then I would be able to get the car started.  If I was unlucky I would get the car started and then the auxiliary drive belt would break under the strain of running the alternator hard to charge the depleted battery.  To avoid this I either disconnected the battery when leaving the car more than a few days or when I forgot about it I made sure to charge the battery from a mains charger before hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent ~£60 on a Halfords Advanced/Smart Charger that could charge the 120AH battery for my car and the much smaller (40AH?) battery of my partners Ford KA.  Even from near dead this unit was able to charge my large battery back to a working state.  I am sure it did nothing for the lifespan of the battery and it would be better to avoid completely discharging it but it was better than buying a new battery every couple of months just to make sure it was charged.  At worst the unit would fail the battery after a 24 hour charge cycle, then I would leave it an hour to cool off and I would try again and the cycle would pass.  This did mean I needed 24~48 hours of charging before I could confidently use the car but it only cost me the power to charge a battery each time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did replace the battery at one point to see if that helped.  It did seem to give me another week before starting the car became difficult or resulted in a lost drive belt but it did not resolve the issue altogether.  I replaced the alternator with a refurbished one and the issue persisted.  It was only by either disconnecting the battery when a week or more of standing was expect or charging from the mains after 2+ weeks of idle time that I avoided the issue altogether.  Driving around for an hour or two might charge the battery if it is a little low but it would take a long time to charge a battery that was very flat this way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13148" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T12:13:09.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2015-11-10T13:59:19.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who up until recently was relying quite heavily on Jumper cables due to a bad battery and lack of funds to replace it, I have to emphasise the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Length:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jumper cables were cheapo specials I bought in a supermarket, and were only just long enough for me to get the battery connected to the &quot;jump&quot; car if they were literally bumper to bumper. Longer ones are better, simply because you don't need to do this. Pushing a dead car off the drive in freezing rain is no fun, particularly if you then have to spend a further 5-10 mins in the rain fiddling with the connections to make them work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gauge:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already noted by others, the lower the gauge, the less time you'll spend waiting for your battery to be ready. Vital in winter. Might save whoever you're having to jump off a little petrol and time too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety Grips:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, like me, you're constantly having to jump the car, or conversely you're doing it for the first time having had little sleep and in the dark, you may accidentally do what I did one cold morning and cross the cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not advised for several reasons, least of which is the speed at which the metal clamps heat up. Thankfully I was protected from a major shock by the rapidly melting insulation on the actual clamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as it was just a borrowed oversized battery I was jumping off I didn't risk anyone or anything else other than myself and my car with my idiocy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, as the insulation was melting, I still got a shock and additionally a very nasty burn to my hand for my trouble. I'd definitely recommend completely skipping anything with shrink-wrap style insulation and go for something with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://depositphotos.com/7027670/stock-photo-car-battery-jumper-cables.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fully plastic handle&lt;/a&gt; surrounding the clamps, or something with very thick insulation on the handles. You'll thank me if you ever do something stupid with them, like I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastEditorUserId="9101" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T21:14:22.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T21:14:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:05:25.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience 2V is way under the safe discharge zone (considering yours is the typical lead-acid). Your battery is now damaged. Even if you charge it with an industrial charger and miraculously get it back to 13.2 Volts (of full charge) you will still get a lousy capacity and current discharge. In the best case scenario you will get a few seconds to start the car but not enough charge for a second or third try (in case it won't start the first time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case i would attempt a revival if it was below 20$ (if you urgently need it and don't want to hasty buy the first battery you find). You could also buy a charger and try to revive it yourself (basic ones go for 20-30$ on amazon).&#xA;But even if i revived it i would still pay the 100$ for a new one as soon as possible (I wouldn't want to pray every time i start) and maybe keep the old one in my trunk just in case i need a little extra charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please remember to disconnect the battery if you intend to leave your car idle for more than two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T14:05:25.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:17:51.833" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1980 Chrysler LeBaron (V8 318ci) just failed an emissions test. I'm coming from a state without emissions testing to a state that requires it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the only part that failed was the hydrocarbon count. The legal limit was 300 PPM and the reading was 454 PPM. I passed the carbon monoxide test with a reading of 2.47% and a limit of 3%. Carbon dioxide was at 11.14%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cursory reading seems to indicate that hydrocarbons are basically unburned fuel. So if there is too much of it coming through the tailpipe (where they measured), could something be wrong with the return line? Other reading suggested the catalytic converter might be at fault. When we replaced the exhaust pipe ourselves a year back, a visual inspection seemed to indicate that the grate in the catalytic converter was intact, not broken or rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I exceeded the hydrocarbon limit by 150%, it seems the fixes needed would be substantial. What could be causing such a high PPM of hydrocarbons given the information above, and what sorts of fixes would correspondingly be needed? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12439" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T22:06:19.850" Title="1980 Chrysler LeBaron Failed Emissions Test" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|emissions|catalytic-converter|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22462" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:25:20.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carburetors probably just need their idle mixture adjusting to make the engine run a little leaner.  If adjustment doesn't fix it, the carbs may need refurbishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T21:10:38.893" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T21:10:38.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:51:57.273" Score="4" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced computer, starter, alternator and battery twice in the last 2 years.  The other day when I turned the key the lights cut off and no attempt to start.  I removed battery connections and unplugged the computer and when I re-connected, it starts.  This is the second time I have had to do this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is there a sensor sending bad signal or is the voltage regulator in computer bad?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;if sensor how do I determine which one?&#xA;If neither of the above, what could cause this condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13151" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T15:39:05.937" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T18:39:22.017" Title="Have a 2000 Jeep XJ Cherokee Sport with Electrical issues" Tags="|electrical|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22464" CreationDate="2015-11-10T18:39:22.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @HandyHowie suggests in his comment, this appears to be a simple connection issue which is only part time. You have disconnected/reconnected at the battery, but I'll bet your problems lie at the other end of these cables ... most likely on the ground side, but you'll be better off pulling it off of both ends (positive and negative) to ensure you have a complete connection and there's nothing blocking your connections (like corrosion). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to pull first the negative ground from the opposite end of the battery (where it connects to the vehicle), clean up both sides of the connector with 200-300 grit sand paper (or a good stiff wire brush). Leave this off (not connected for the time being). Clean the spot where the ground is attached to the vehicle using the same method. This could be on the base of the alternator, the engine block, or the actual body of the vehicle. Make sure the bolt (or whatever attaches the cable) is completely clean. Check the starter connection and make sure it's tight (I doubt there is an issue on the positive side, but this will ensure there's no issues). Also check the connection at the alternator to ensure it's tight as well. Now reinstall the negative ground back to its mounting spot. Check your battery clamp connectors to ensure they are clean and serviceable. If these are clean, coat them with some grease to help prevent corrosion in the future. Now check out to see if you have lights and are able to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you check your connections at the battery, ensure they are tight and will not move. If you are able to move them with moderate force, you'll need to figure out what is keeping them from becoming tight and fixing the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to check the entire length of the cables (both battery cables) and see if there is any bulging in them. If there is, this means that corrosion is occurring inside the wires and will require replacement. The corrosion creates a huge pocket of resistance which can cause issues with getting your vehicle started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T18:39:22.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22462" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:06:19.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most carburetor fuel systems do not have a return fuel line. If they do it is usually at the fuel pump and would not impact your air/fuel mixture in any way. However your thinking is correct when applied to fuel injected systems, where a blockage in the return line would raise fuel pressure, thus enriching the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As HandyHowie suggested, some adjustment can be made to the carburetor to lean out the mixture. Generally carburetors have idle and part throttle mixture adjustments. Past this, mixtures are usually changed with jets, needles, or a combination of both. You should not need to do this unless your new home is at a significantly different altitude. I would start a new question with your specific carburetor make/model mentioned if you require more information on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic converters can also lose their effectiveness. I have worked on a few vehicles where everything was in working order (as far as mixtures, ignition, etc), but they just couldn't pass until a new converter was installed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecooptimized.com/index.php/gasoline/80-three-way-catalysts-aging-causes-of-failure-and-deactivation-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ecooptimized.com/index.php/gasoline/80-three-way-catalysts-aging-causes-of-failure-and-deactivation-.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T22:06:19.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:33:49.490" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put new brake pads on the front of my 06 GMC Z71. After finishing, I noticed I didn't have any brakes. The peddle was spongy so I bled the brakes. And bled the brakes, and bled the brakes. I could never get the pedal to feel like it's supposed to. Took it to a mechanic and  he bled the brakes. It still didn't fix the problem. After a major debacle of getting the wrong parts, the mechanic changed the master cylinder. The problem still wasn't fixed because the brake pedal wouldn't push down.  So he then had to change the brake booster. When he took it off air &quot;exploded&quot; out of  it. My question, is this normal? Why did changing my pads cause me to have $730.00 worth of repairs? I never once had any problems before. I had changed my pads  because they had started &quot;squealing.&quot; I bought the truck used with 80,000 miles on it, in very good condition. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13156" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T15:39:31.930" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T15:39:31.930" Title="Changed front brake pads on 06 GMC Z71, then the master cylinder and brake booster failed" Tags="|brakes|gmc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-21T01:52:48.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22470" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:53:51.100" Score="2" ViewCount="5063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have here a combined flasher and hazard flasher relay for a truck, called &quot;Bosch Warnblinkgeber 24V (3+1) x 21W&quot;, part no. 0 335 215 250. It has 11 pins to connect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;31&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;49, 49a&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C, C2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L, R, RL, LL, 54L, 54R&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pinout is fairly common among manufacturers (Bosch, Hella, Monark etc.). But what do these pins mean, esp. how do I connect it so that dash indicators work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 4-pin flasher relais, 49 is input (positive from ignition / battery), 49a is the flasher signal output, and C and C2 are positive for dash indicator lamps for vehicle and trailer, lighting up when &quot;enough&quot; load is connected to consider it having working flashers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying this same connection on the 11-pin relay (and 31 for ground of course) results in a flasher signal on 49a, but no signal whatsoever on C or C2. How do I connect this thing, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my flasher relay (case removed, pinout shown on case):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wz6iD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wz6iD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flasher relay in question. Case removed, pinout shown on case.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13149" LastEditorUserId="13149" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T23:00:17.657" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T12:15:44.227" Title="How to connect a 11-pin flasher relay so that turn signal dash indicator lamps work?" Tags="|turn-signal|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22469" CreationDate="2015-11-10T22:53:51.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How 11-pin flasher relays work internally.&lt;/strong&gt; See this wiring diagram: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgwor.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgwor.png&quot; alt=&quot;Components and connections for hazard flasher / flasher relay BOSCH 0 335 210 250 &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is for the BOSCH 0 335 210 250 flasher relay (same as yours, only for 12V). The diagram shows the internal components of the device &lt;em&gt;logically&lt;/em&gt; (physically speaking, there are some more inside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to connect 11-pin flasher relays.&lt;/strong&gt;  According to the above diagram, this is how you connect the relay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect 31, 49, 49a, C and C2 as you did already.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the cables with signals for left and right flasher which return from the control stalk switch to L and R, respectively. These are &lt;em&gt;inputs&lt;/em&gt; for another independent set of relays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect LL and RL (outputs for flasher signal) to the vehicle's turning signal lamps. Means, to where the cables from the control stalk switch were going to before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect 54R and 54L to the trailer socket indicator signal pins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when your turning lights light up, C and C2 should also light up the dash indicator lamps. If they don't, make sure you indeed have the load connected corresponding to at least the flashers for one side: 3x21W at LL or LR for C to light up, 1x21W to 54L or 54R for C2 to light up. If you connect less, the relay will not show the indicator lamp to hint to a possible lamp failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The reason for 11-pin flasher relays.&lt;/strong&gt; The difference to the 4-pin relays is: with a 4-pin &quot;(3+1) x 21W&quot; relay, the amount of load on a common line triggers the dash indicator lamps: for 3 x 21 W, lamp C is lighting up, for 4-5 x 21W, lamp C2 is lighting up additionally. The problem is, if you have a trailer with working indicator lamp and a vehicle with one of three broken (on one side), lamp C will light up and lamp C2 will not, supposing a problem with the trailer lamps. This is fixed with the 11-pin relays, since it detects loads for the trailer and vehicle flasher circuits separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13149" LastEditorUserId="13149" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T12:15:44.227" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T12:15:44.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21897" CreationDate="2015-11-10T23:05:52.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out to be the transfer case chain. It was loose and just needed to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12772" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:05:52.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18909" CreationDate="2015-11-10T23:08:24.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much gas while applying the clutch will wear it out faster, but shouldn't be cause for any abnormal noises. You'll get the hang of it with more experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet it's the clutch throwout bearing. (Generic diagram - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.novak-adapt.com/images/graphics/clutch_diagram.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.novak-adapt.com/images/graphics/clutch_diagram.gif&lt;/a&gt;) Applying pressure against it (when you press the clutch pedal at all) usually makes the sound disappear, as does increased engine speed. I've experienced this multiple times including on my own 88' Toyota Celica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearing itself is cheap but requires taking the transmission out to replace. This bearing is typically replaced while replacing the clutch, and comes in most 'clutch kits'. If the car is at 75k miles I would bet that it's close to needing a new clutch, and while doing this would be the time to replace the bearing. If the clutch has already been replaced recently it's possible the mechanic 'cheaped' out and didn't replace this bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T23:13:54.787" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:13:54.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9124" CreationDate="2015-11-11T03:09:00.440" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I see it is that if that is the case then subaru wouldn't put a spare tire in your trunk if you can't use it. as long as it is the same size from all four then you should be fine. Now if you used a different size tire on it then obviously it would be good for the vehicle. oh ps for the insurance guy ^^ I work at a tire shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13161" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T03:09:00.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-11T05:36:25.840" Score="4" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Cadillac CTS, 6 cylinder 5 speed. 104,000 miles. &#xA;changing from 1st-2nd gear, After letting out the clutch in 2nd gear it has a grinding sound until I shift to 3rd. And only 2nd gear has the sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got the car, now this... Any and all help appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13056" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T21:50:19.967" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T21:50:19.967" Title="Transmission Grinds only in second gear - Need Assistance" Tags="|transmission|cadillac|cts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22476" CreationDate="2015-11-11T08:29:19.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sound like an issue inside the gear box (transmission).  First thing to get checked is the oil level in the gear box.  It could be a simple case of being low on oil.  Get it checked and maybe get an oil change.  If the noise goes, you then need to find where the oil leaked from and get that fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T08:29:19.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22454" CreationDate="2015-11-11T13:59:46.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well when you start most cars, you close a circuit that magnetically pushes the starter gear to come in contact with the engine and rotate it. After the engine successfully starts the starter moves back to it's position. Since you describe the sound to be similar to &quot;grinding&quot;, this could either mean that the starter gear is worn out (the starter moves properly but the gear is worn out and can't rotate the engine) or the starter is stuck and won't move into position at all, or touches the engine just enough to produce the &quot;grinding sound&quot;. The latter (which is more likely) could be due to weak magnetic field (maybe cause of a weak battery, or an electrical fault) or due to a mechanical failure that prevents the proper movement of the starters head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't really do many things without taking out and examining your starter but try these.&#xA;First try to start the car, by rapidly and firmly turning the key. pause for at least 10 seconds in between. Don't insist if it won't work instantly and don't try it more than 2-3 times. &#xA;Add a battery booster or assist the starter with a little extra charge from your friend's car. Again don't insist more than 2-3 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T13:59:46.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2015-11-11T15:12:21.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems usually indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to a few things related to the fuel supply line, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a leaky fuel injector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minute cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these are not the only possible causes for hard-starting situations. Anything that could alter the air-fuel ratio can play a role here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a faulty mass air flow sensor (MAF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a weak fuel pump that isn't delivering sufficient fuel pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a clogged fuel filter that prevents build-up of adequate fuel pressure &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reluctant to mention faulty lambda sensors here because they are usually not used by the ECU when starting the engine (open-loop vs closed-loop). However, given the OP mentions that the vehicle doesn't run very well after some time leaves this as a possible reason for the poor running of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To narrow down such issues, the best course of action is to hook up the vehicle to an OBDII scanner and read the vehicle's &quot;pulse&quot;. Things like fuel trims, fuel pressure, mass air flow, intake air temperature are usually a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T15:12:21.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-11T15:21:50.143" Score="4" ViewCount="53393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am kind of stumped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Toyota Rav4 that is acting weird. Let me start with the list of recent repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a tune-up (new sparks, wires, distributor cap and rotor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;changed the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned the EGR valve, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recently changed the thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all this the engine started revving up and down when idling. If I try to drive the car while it is still idling it stalls a lot. However the car still stalls a bit when it is finally warmed up but not as frequent nor as hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started looking on the web what it could be and still no luck. So far I have: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned the throttle body and the IAC valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installed a new PCV valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checked for vacuum leaks via a smoke test and the sparking carb cleaner method - I just tried a new MAP sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only check engine light codes the car throws are P0300 and P0301-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolved (11/15/15): It was a loose camshaft position sensor. Plugged it in and now the car runs fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastEditorUserId="12959" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T00:38:33.187" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T12:25:58.870" Title="Resolved: Idle RPMs fluctuate and engine hesitation" Tags="|toyota|stall|idle|rav4|hesitation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22482" CreationDate="2015-11-11T17:00:34.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite often surging like this is caused by not enough air getting passed the butterfly valve in the throttle body when the butterfly is closed.  Under normal circumstances, there should be a very small gap around the butterfly to allow the air required for idle.  If the butterfly is closed too much, the revs will drop too far forcing the engine ECU to open the idle control valve (IAC).  It will then try to back off the air through the IAC, but since not enough air is getting passed the butterfly for idle, the revs will drop to far and so the surging cycle repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the throttle body internals are dirty, which you say you have already cleaned, or the throttle just needs adjusting due to wear.  There should be an adjustment screw on the throttle body that should allow you to open the butterfly valve slightly.  Hopefully this will stop the surging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T17:00:34.223" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22485" CreationDate="2015-11-11T19:29:47.033" Score="1" ViewCount="6094" Body="&lt;p&gt;For more than a month, I have been noticing coolant leaking from the thermostat housing. This was identified by the dealer and another Mini specialist mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer wanted the housing to be replaced out right ($1300 parts+labor) and the mechanic (his quote $650) suggested wait and watch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have been filling in coolant once every three days. Wondering if this OK to get by for few more months?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I mean should I just be  filling coolant twice or thrice a week or should I get it fixed ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm currently driving short distances and If I drive long distances, will the coolant drain lot more. Is it dependent on the length time  the engine runs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have heard thermostat kicks in after a certain temp, does that mean the coolant from housing leaks  when thermostat starts working?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T21:30:41.433" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T21:30:41.433" Title="2010 Mini Cooper S - Coolant leak from thermostat housing" Tags="|coolant|thermostat|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22484" CreationDate="2015-11-11T21:28:08.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have been filling in coolant once every three days. wondering if this ok to get by for few more months? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably get by with this, but realize that if the thermostat housing is cracked and leaking, it could &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt; crack further, causing faster/greater loss of coolant at any time. By not doing the fix, you could end up trashing the whole engine if it overheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I mean should I just be filling coolant twice or thrice a week or should I get it fixed ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always my first inclination to get something fixed, but this is completely on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it dependent on the length time the engine runs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the leak where it is, the coolant system cannot build pressure to ensure a higher boiling point (over boil protection). The coolant isn't going to have the efficiency it should have. The longer you run the engine at any given time, the great risk you have of overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have heard thermostat kicks in after a certain temp, does that mean the coolant from housing leaks when thermostat starts working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on where the leak is actually at, but generally, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T21:28:08.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21666" CreationDate="2015-11-11T23:18:39.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I was able to come up with is this Daewoo badge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcptA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcptA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the closest thing I could find which comes close to your description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T23:18:39.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22489" CreationDate="2015-11-12T01:41:50.130" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this supposed to be connected to? It is screwed into the cabin wall. It seems to be a ground cable of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pa9dE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disconnected Cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is this hose supposed to be just open like that? This is from the passenger side coming out of the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IGpXN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disconnected Hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T06:27:16.430" Title="Disconnect cable and hose from cabin 1996 Toyota Rav4" Tags="|toyota|rav4|hose|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21666" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:46:59.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about Ifiniti (Nissan)?  It's not really a T though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4C4P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4C4P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4970" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T02:46:59.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22487" CreationDate="2015-11-12T02:58:07.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to both. The top picture is just a ground to the body from wherever it starts at. You'll find many of them around the car and under the bonnet (hood). Trying to find where it started will be a chore, but shouldn't be too difficult. It's probably on the engine very near by. Use the length of it to search around. You'll know it should connect to something within the arc of its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second picture is the drain for the A/C core. As air goes across it during use, it condenses any water in the air. It drips into a catch basin and drains out through this tube. Without it, water would leak onto your passenger's feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T02:58:07.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:00:26.283" Score="-8" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this evening, I locked up my car's brakes reacting to a wrong-way bicyclist.  My tires generated a respectable cloud of smoke, but to my disappointment, the sound they produced was a dull scraping noise.  I'd like something more dramatic: more of a &quot;howl&quot; or &quot;screech&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a 2004 Honda Civic; the tires have about half their tread life left.  I was braking from 30 MPH on dry asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13172" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T06:14:41.567" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T06:20:49.777" Title="How can I change the sound of my tires?" Tags="|honda|tires|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-21T08:33:47.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22569" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:02:49.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of wiring in a universal trailer light controller into my 2014 Focus ST. In doing so, I've run into a very strange issue which is just beyond my electrical knowledge and I'm guessing it has something to do with CANBus so I've Googled around a bit but nothing seems to match my particular issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other input pins on the tail light are switched normally, L Turn, R Turn and Tail/Running light are all 0v when off and 12v when switched on (obviously intermittent 12v on the turn signals). There is NO PROBLEM with those three inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equivalent wire that goes to the brake light bulb, however, is ALWAYS 12v when grounded to the chassis, whether or not the brake is pressed. But yet the bulb correctly turns on and off with the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel insane even writing that, but I don't understand how the brake light is switched. Is it a ground switch? I left my voltmeter's positive lead pushed into an open fuse location with +12v and got a complete circuit on the ground side of the brake light socket as well so I don't see how it can be. Can anyone explain what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T15:32:07.260" Title="How to wire trailer brake to 2014 Ford Focus ST" Tags="|electrical|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T04:34:56.787" Score="1" ViewCount="2495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does this 2.5 volkswagen  jetta se 2010 have a timing chain or timing belt or both. And need to know how to time it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13174" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T06:41:46.607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T00:45:13.963" Title="Does a 2010 volkswagen jetta 2.5 have a timming belt or timing chain or both" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12089" CreationDate="2015-11-12T06:05:36.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that my bike came with a #90 main jet and seemed to be too lean, also when fully warmed up hard to engage neutral. I replaced with a #92 jet.  Bike pulls harder and no longer gets &quot;hot&quot; and neutral engages. Bike is built to run at a certain temperature. When overheated the gearbox tolerances are incorrect and neutral engagement suffers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13175" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T16:52:49.560" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T16:52:49.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22487" CreationDate="2015-11-12T06:27:16.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ground wire was attached to the end of the intake manifold. The shiny aluminum part in the center right side of the picture. Repair is needed. The A/C evaporator drain is to be left open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T06:27:16.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22492" CreationDate="2015-11-12T06:40:33.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the engine in question is a straight 5 from vw range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a timing chain and not the belt, A engine cannot have both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T06:40:33.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22492" CreationDate="2015-11-12T06:57:24.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine has a timing chain, instead of belts. The only belts present in the jetta engine are for the alternator and the compressor, not for timing !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T07:10:51.093" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:10:51.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12184" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:04:33.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The voltage regulators on honda bikes are not well built . When you have a battery attached, it gets charged causing a voltage drop. Without it, high uncontrolled power flows through. There is a simple fix, if only the lights are the problem. You can attach voltage regulators on the line the headlight and tail light are attached. They are easy to install. But first check your voltage . &#xA;For 6v use 7806&#xA;For 12v use 7812&#xA;The following circuit is commonly used : &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8cQr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circuit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastEditorUserId="12906" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T07:19:25.410" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:19:25.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22500" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:25:20.523" Score="7" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;While newer cars never allow you to turn over the engine without the clutch depressed, in some older cars, if you do leave the transmission in gear, do not depress the clutch and turn the key, the car will start rolling forward and the engine will start normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it causes the engine to put torque on the transmission while it is starting, but can this cause any damage or extra wear on the drivetrain as opposed to starting the engine with the transmission disconnected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9522" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:30:17.010" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T20:11:10.010" Title="what damage or extra wear (if any) is caused by turning over the engine while in gear (manual transmission)?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22498" CreationDate="2015-11-12T08:34:53.440" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until the engine starts the only thing applying torque to the drive train is the starter motor, the engine itself is not providing any torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting like this will not cause any damage to the drive train (except perhaps the teeth on the edge of the flywheel that the starter motor engages with) but it does put excessive load on the starter motor and it's wiring. This could potentially lead to premature failure of the motor or the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: I am English and in terms of cars: Motor = Electric, Engine = The noisy bit that is fueled by hydrocarbons.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12801" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T08:34:53.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22490" CreationDate="2015-11-12T08:41:13.040" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyres screech when they skid on a dry road surface. Your car will have ABS and probably some stability control too, which stop tyres from skidding by modulating the braking force around the tyres that have the most grip or by reducing the braking force just enough to prevent a skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it means you don't get the screeching sound of 70's police shows but it does mean you kill fewer cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12801" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T06:03:59.203" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T06:03:59.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21666" CreationDate="2015-11-12T15:41:19.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't ring any bells, so I agree with your comment that its probably a tuning badge. Alternatively, did you see an Opel or Hyundai badge in passing and see these slightly differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hyundai: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qpI2h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qpI2h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hyundai badge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opel: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXC08.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXC08.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Opel badge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T15:41:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T16:41:53.100" Score="6" ViewCount="3249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently moved to a state that requires front and back license plates. I have a '96 Honda civic (old but good), it did not have a front plate when I bought it. There are four pre-made holes in the front bumper, but no screws. I bought the correct sized screws/nuts and went to install the front plate but found a thick layer of foam(?) blocking me from reaching behind the front bumper and tightening the screws with the corresponding nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think leaving the screws without a nut is a good idea because I'm sure just the movement of driving can cause them to become loose or something. I tried googling how to install front license plates for my specific car but was told the same thing which amounted to drilling holes in my bumper. My issue is that I can't reach behind the bumper regardless. The only solution I can think of is to buy screws a size too big and force them to thread into the existing holes, but I'm hoping there's a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shopped around a couple car places for screws. I didn't realize this earlier but at some point the screw is the right size to fit into the hole, but too big to fit through the license plate. I had a guy with a riveter help me out to a degree, we got the screws to thread through the plate and into the plastic lining the hole, but didn't quite &quot;bite&quot; into it snugly enough. Driving didn't bother them but a person could pull them out easily enough. Settled for using heavy-duty zip ties right now. We'll see how long those last!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13181" LastEditorUserId="13181" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T13:41:44.070" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T14:29:11.193" Title="Mounting front license plate?" Tags="|honda|civic|installation|license-plates|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T18:55:02.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a slightly-used 2014 Nissan Pathfinder in January 2015 and have been using it to commute to work (almost exclusively, with the exception of the occasional trip).  It currently has 41,000 miles on it and had it's 30,000 mile maintenance on-time and I have been getting oil changes every 3,500 - 4,500 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of my commute (mileage-wise) is highway and I drive 112 miles a day.  With the exception of the occasional bad-day traffic-wise, generally speaking the commute is relatively the same (56 miles and approximately 75 - 105 minutes each way, with 90 minutes being the norm).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the mileage and time spent driving, I watch my RPM's and the digital avg MPG gauge pretty carefully and over the last 6 months, the avg MPG has only increased and pretty substantially.  When I first purchased the car, it was slightly used and was at approximately 18.5 mpg and I could get 3 round trips to/from work before having to fill up and now it's at 22.5 mpg and up until about a month ago, I was able to get 4 round trips.  This jives almost perfectly with the vehicle specs (19.5 gallon tank, fuel economy of 20mpg street - 26mpg highway) and my commute (4 roundtrips = 448 miles &amp;amp; 19.5 gallons x 22.5mpg = 438 miles per tank).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a month ago, (maybe 6 weeks), my fuel economy plummeted back down to 3 round trips before being told I need to fill up and I don't know why.  It did not seem to be a gradual decline either; I'm pretty sure all of a sudden, I was being told to fill up at the end of my 3rd commute.  This is a difference of about 112 miles, though obviously none of the gauges are exact, so maybe 80 - 110 miles different, regardless it's a large decline and the fact that I am getting low fuel after only 3 round trips shows the numbers (1 trip = 112 miles lost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used to use BJ's gas and I have been told there is no detergent in it.  Recently, I switched to either filling up at Sheetz or a Shell.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Northern Virginia area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed over the last 5-6 months, I will get to work and park and the digital readout will tell me I have 100 miles left (for example) and at the end of the day when I turn on the car to drive home, it will say I have 50 miles left (again, an example).  The immediate changes in the digital read out are both drastic and sudden.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I fill up, the digital readout will tell me I have 380 miles in the car and other times, it will say 450 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There has always been a discrepancy between the digital read-out (how many miles I can drive with the remaining gas) and the fuel gauge (how much gas is left in the tank), though it seems to have become an even wider discrepancy lately.  I've noticed that the digital will read 20 - 30 miles left while the fuel gauge will show a quarter of a tank.  Based on those numbers, that disparity is roughly 80 - 100 miles (1 tank = 448 miles --&gt; 1/4 tank = 112 miles and Low Fuel = 20/30 miles), which is almost exactly the number of miles I am losing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I brought it back to the dealership I purchased from (a franchised Nissan dealership) and they're telling me that after examining the electronics and the technician taking it home and putting about 100 miles on it, they can't find anything wrong, and the car is in perfect working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My instinct is that they're simply doing what the &quot;handbook&quot; tells them to check and not putting any further effort into it, but I obviously have no idea.  I have / had other issues with that dealership concerning their attention to detail on other (unrelated) items such as the fluids, etc. but while I'm really uninformed about the technical aspect of all this, I'm having a hard time just simply believing that while I am getting 25% less fuel economy, everything is A-OK.  I feel like, if the car wasn't under warranty, they'd be telling me something is really wrong....or it's something other than what the Nissan requirements are for maintenance and checks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me their thoughts on what the potential issues are?  What should I do about the dealership telling me there is nothing wrong?  Is a 25% reduction in fuel economy normal?  I'd never paid much attention to my mileage until I got this job, drive a lot and spend a crap-ton on gas.  Now, I watch it like a hawk to try and maximize the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T23:36:53.600" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T23:36:53.600" Title="2014 Nissan Pathfinder decreasing fuel economy" Tags="|nissan|fuel-consumption|pathfinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-12T20:58:07.193" Score="3" ViewCount="3851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Toyota Highlander, 3.0L V6, FWD, mfr 12/02, with a blown engine. My local salvage yard sold me a 2002 Avalon engine that &quot;is exactly the same except the intake manifold&quot;. I took the engine home, replaced the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, and oil filter. I pulled the pan off to check for sludge and it looked beautiful. I then delivered the engine and car to my auto shop for the swap.&#xA;The small differences in the intake manifold were insignificant. Then we noticed the timing tensioner interfered with the right-side engine mount. This is a show-stopper.&#xA;There are not many good Highlander engines available, and they are expensive. Can this Avalon engine work if I swap out the front casting and tensioner (not trivial)? Camry engines are more plentiful. Can I use one, and if so is it the '03 and up version?&#xA;Any help you can provide will be WONDERFUL. I'm in deep doo-doo here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the front aluminum engine casting, to which the timing belt components and water pump are bolted, could be changed to the Highlander version and that would allow the mount to bolt on. But it's not trivial. The lower casting that the oil pan bolts to would also have to come off to get to the front casting. And my old one may be junk, since the Highlander oil pan was filled with piston/rod debris. I'm hoping someone who knows can tell me if this will work, or if a Camry engine can work, before I spend the significant $$ and time.&#xA;Thanks,&#xA;RayZ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13185" LastEditorUserId="13185" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T19:29:28.920" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T04:54:54.893" Title="Replace 2003 Highlander engine w/Avalon or Camry?" Tags="|engine|camry|avalon|highlander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:00:29.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a USB in car charger for my 2001 Astra does not fit. But my old tomtom 910 charger perfectly fits. This makes me think problem is with USB charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13188" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:00:29.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:49:40.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think only you can decide if it is worth your time and money to take it out and get it charged compared to purchasing a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To assist, if we assume a car battery will last 5 years, and you have had it for, say, 1 year, then you would expect this battery to provide another 4 years of service which I'll say is a value of 80EUR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if, as others believe, that this battery has lost life then you may not get another 4 years of service - without any justification, say you only get 2 years of future service, compare your time and costs against a battery with a value of 40EUR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re 2V: it would be odd that with load removed that you are getting 2V. This suggests that 3 of battery cells have gone reverse polarity or that 5 cells are shorted or some combination (I will not consider shorted cells beyond this point since, without justification, I will deem to be terminal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this took place over 1 month, then there are 2 possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) your car has some fault that is discharging battery; or &#xA;2) your car's quiescent current is high and flattened battery; or (again)&#xA;3) some combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if 1), then you might want to recover this battery to allow you to determine if your car has a fault (eg. boot light stuck on) before you invest in a new battery and have same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if 2), then since battery current has been low, then 3 weaker cells have been reverse charged by stronger 3 cells. If this current is small, then recharging your battery will re-reverse these cells and battery may be saved. Some have thought that sulfation may have occurred where lead sulphate crystals have reduced surface area of your battery plates. Perhaps: a flat battery has 2 plates of PbSO4 but it takes time to make lead sulphate crystals that are hard to dissolve. Therefore charging these cells will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rational thing to do is to replace battery, but if you have 2 cars and are interested in spending some time you might like to jump start car and go for a drive - perhaps to a shop to buy another battery just-in-case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You alternator and regulator will have no problem recharging your battery - they run your car headlights at night with are typically 5A each, and a alternator can produce at least 70A (I think mine is 100A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7143" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:49:40.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22505" CreationDate="2015-11-12T23:35:13.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All gas sold in the US will have a detergent package in them, so there was no real reason for you to change due to this. &lt;a href=&quot;http://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe/P100096K.TXT?ZyActionD=ZyDocument&amp;amp;Client=EPA&amp;amp;Index=1995+Thru+1999&amp;amp;Docs=&amp;amp;Query=&amp;amp;Time=&amp;amp;EndTime=&amp;amp;SearchMethod=1&amp;amp;TocRestrict=n&amp;amp;Toc=&amp;amp;TocEntry=&amp;amp;QField=&amp;amp;QFieldYear=&amp;amp;QFieldMonth=&amp;amp;QFieldDay=&amp;amp;IntQFieldOp=0&amp;amp;ExtQFieldOp=0&amp;amp;XmlQuery=&amp;amp;File=D%3A%5Czyfiles%5CIndex%20Data%5C95thru99%5CTxt%5C00000020%5CP100096K.txt&amp;amp;User=ANONYMOUS&amp;amp;Password=anonymous&amp;amp;SortMethod=h%7C-&amp;amp;MaximumDocuments=1&amp;amp;FuzzyDegree=0&amp;amp;ImageQuality=r75g8/r75g8/x150y150g16/i425&amp;amp;Display=p%7Cf&amp;amp;DefSeekPage=x&amp;amp;SearchBack=ZyActionL&amp;amp;Back=ZyActionS&amp;amp;BackDesc=Results%20page&amp;amp;MaximumPages=1&amp;amp;ZyEntry=1&amp;amp;SeekPage=x&amp;amp;ZyPURL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the EPA Reultatory Announcement:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EPA requires the use of additives to control the formation of engine and fuel supply systems deposits in all US gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has been my &lt;em&gt;experience&lt;/em&gt; Shell gas, while it runs and cleans good, &lt;em&gt;gets drastically lower fuel economy than many other brands&lt;/em&gt;. I don't have any empirical evidence to show you, but &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; time I use Shell gas my mileage goes down no matter which vehicle I have used it in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you is to go back to what you were used to (BJ's fuel ... I use Costco fuel quite often ... I live in the NoVA are as well) and see if the mileage goes back up. I will bet you'll be pleasantly surprised. This may take a couple of tank fulls to accomplish, as it will take a little bit for the ECU to recognize and adjust for the different fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, if you find a fuel which works for you, stick with it. Some vehicles just &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; some fuels, while others don't care. The real key with any gas station is utilize one which sells a lot of fuel, as this ensures they are putting fresh fuel in the underground tanks quite often, which equates to fresher fuel in your tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T23:35:13.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T07:06:32.163" Score="2" ViewCount="8561" Body="&lt;p&gt;when took my car for oil change, mechanic said that the tire Threads are too thin to drive , less than 5. So it is not safe to drive. Till what depth we can drive the car safely. Tires also has some minor cracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13189" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T20:11:51.603" Title="Tire depth is 4, is it safe to drive?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2015-11-13T07:57:06.520" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did have the same problem, my car &quot;subaru legacy outback 98 2.5l&quot; did overheat vile driving n when I parked the engine will cool down. I fixed the problem by take oute the radiator n flushed it n I did find a crack in the radiator by the in pass on 4-5 inch. I welded it vit the same type of plastic that the radiator I made of n putt it back inn.. YouTube is nice   then I did ask my father for son help n hi did say that boxars engine is hard to get the air out of the cooling system so I recommend me to open the hoses that goes in to the heater, first the one that comes out to giv it free pass to left the air get oute n this you must do wile the engine is running.. When the water is flowing you must remember to fill up with coolant on the radiator n close it n next is the thank by it to the middle. The engine will drain it out... Totaly.. Then after given I free air pass you just putt the hose back n then open the inpass hose, you may have the def-heat button? Push it in or activate it. The water will not return by the hoses an flood backwards... N remember, huge pressure here   putt the hose back again after few sec n tighten them n refill the radiator, or stoop the engine first   now you just fill all up n left the engine get the try. I did also think my water pump was broken but I did well to the end  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13190" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T22:15:52.057" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T22:15:52.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:05:29.303" Score="0" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have new 4 tyre size of 145/70/R17,  can I use these tyres instead of 155/70/R17 original tyre size. I will replace all 4 tyres with new tyres. Is it recommended. Shall I face any technical problems for the same?&#xA;Pls recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13193" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T09:30:14.247" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T09:56:32.777" Title="All 4 tyres for Santro Xing 145/70/ R17 can be used instead of original 155/70/R17 tyre size" Tags="|tires|hyundai|safety|santro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22513" CreationDate="2015-11-13T09:56:32.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the tyres you have are R13 as this vehicle runs 13&quot; diameter wheels as standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number (145 or 155) is the width of the tread part of the tyre in mm.  Going from 155 to 145 will cause no problems because the shoulders of the tyre will be just 5mm further inwards than they were previously.  This will mean that the tyres will not cause any rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second number, the 70 is a percentage which shows how big the sidewalls are relative to the tread pattern.  So, on the 145 tyres the sidewall will be 7mm smaller than on the 155/70 tyres.  This may throw your speedometer clibration out very slightly (but not significantly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other things you need to check is that your 145 tyres have a suitable load and speed rating for your vehicle.  After the first set of numbers (i.e. 155/70R13) there will be another set, typically something like 89W or 91T.  The number is the load rating (i.e. how much weight the tyre is able to support) and the letter is the speed rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided that the load and speed ratings are reasonable, I would personally have no hesitation in going from 155 to 145 tyres, all else being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T09:56:32.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22504" CreationDate="2015-11-13T11:07:48.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front licence plate bracket on a Civic consists of 3 parts. The first is the part your dealing with. Inside the bumper there should be plates with nuts welded to it. Number 4 in the picture, 2 required. The only way to get at it is to remove the bumper fascia (plastic cover). In a civic this is pretty easy. There are only a hand full of bolts and push pins holding it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is a bracket that holds the bottom of the license plate. Number 3 in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third is a license plate frame. Number 9 in the picture. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExBrI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExBrI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T11:07:48.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22403" CreationDate="2015-11-13T12:15:36.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it seems that it's only Elm327 adapters that use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://projectgus.com/2011/10/notes-on-ftdi-latency-with-arduino/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FTDI serial to usb&lt;/a&gt; adapter chip that have these latency problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FTDI can’t send a USB packet to the computer for every byte that comes from the Arduino’s microcontroller. Instead, it stores the serial data in an internal buffer and only sends a USB packet when the buffer is full, or after a period of time has elapsed. This period of time is determined by the FTDI Latency Timer, which is the reason why FTDI chips can give bad latency characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Linux &amp;amp; Windows, the default latency timer setting is 16ms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, taking into account both the data request and the response you are automatically taking a 32ms hit round trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, the latency can be reduced to 1ms.  The above link explains how to do that for a variety of operating systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ForScan software &lt;a href=&quot;http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&amp;amp;t=1763&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;has a visual tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on how to do it in Windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T12:15:36.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22510" CreationDate="2015-11-13T14:35:26.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=163&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TireRack.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In most parts of the world, tires are considered to be legally worn out when they reach 2/32&quot; (approximately 1.6mm) of remaining tread depth. U.S. law requires tires to have easy-to-see Tread Wear Indicator bars running from one side of their tread design to the other when the tire's tread has worn down to the minimum legal limit of 2/32 inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tread wear indicator bars on a partially worn tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDcVs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDcVs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tread wear indicator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/tire-rack-team-blog/new-year-new-tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;They also state&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... if snow-covered roads are a concern, it’s time to replace your tires when they reach approximately 6/32” of remaining tread depth. For rain and wet roads, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32” of remaining tread depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can &lt;em&gt;possibly&lt;/em&gt; get away with running tread that thin, it really isn't advised to do so. The place where you got your oil changed at is right in suggesting you get new tires, but they are still legal. My suggestion is to invest in some new tires soon, especially with the winter months fast approaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T20:11:51.603" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T20:11:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T14:56:20.240" Score="1" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to fit Car Tyre Pressure Monitor Valve Stem Cap Sensor Indicators to my Skoda Citigo, where the cold tyre pressure is supposed to be 26 p.s.i. There is a wide range of these available, but none that I can find that are specific to this pressure. How important is it to be this specific? If it's not, then what are the criteria should I use when choosing a set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12825" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T15:23:59.827" Title="How to choose Car Tyre Pressure Monitor Valve Stem Cap Sensor Indicator" Tags="|tires|sensor|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22518" CreationDate="2015-11-13T15:23:59.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/frQbt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/frQbt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Label in fuel filler flat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; shows that a Citigo Elegance 75PS Greentech with 185/55 x 15&quot; requires 26psi on its small/narrow tyres.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go for the cheap option by searching for &lt;strong&gt;26psi valve indicator caps&lt;/strong&gt; which will allow you to visually inspect each tyre without having to get a pressure monitor to check them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some aftermarket tyre pressure monitoring tools (such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tpmswarehouse.co.uk/retrofit-tpms-sensors?product_id=125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) will let you monitor whether the tyre is correctly inflated by measuring the air pressure in each tyre.  These are better than the ones that just identify a softer/harder tyre by using the turning moment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as they are within 1-2psi of each other that's fine in my experience, however these tools aren't much use in the event of a blow out.  I've not really ever needed them in cars fitted with normal tyres but those fitted with run flats or with &quot;gunk&quot; to stop punctures its useful as the tyre may not look deformed due to low pressure but will affect the handling characteristics of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T15:23:59.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2015-11-13T15:58:39.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As supplied the Kenwood unit will have included a loom the same as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Kenwood-car-stereo-radio-CD-player-wiring-loom-16-Pin-adaptor-KDC-KRC-/371150576513?hash=item566a4c5b81:g:WV4AAOSwdpxUU2al&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; (from your question).  If the unit no longer had this loom with it, I'm afraid you will need to buy another.  The end which fits in the stereo is Kenwood specific but the other end (that plugs into the car) is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ISO_10487_connector_pinout.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISO&lt;/a&gt; standard connector.  Sadly the ISO standard does not include pins to cater for volume or skip controls which your steering wheel will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is sadly no standard for these controls so each car marker has, sadly, done something slightly different.  Somebody appears to have reverse engineered the Renault system and publish the pinouts &lt;a href=&quot;http://tlcdcemu.sourceforge.net/hardware.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  If you are good with electronics you could probably engineer your own patch lead.  The problem is though, the connectors.  The simplest way to get ahold of all of the connectors required to manufacture your own patch lead is sadly to buy the patch lead you have identified in your other &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc99-x12-renault-clio-laguna-kangoo-safrane-twingo-stalk-adaptor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't actually need the steering wheel controls for the head unit to work but if you wish to retain the steering wheel functionality, you will need this additional wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, Kenwood do offer a range of their own remotes which you can stick to your wheel that communicate via infrared such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adriangame.co.uk/kenwremote.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.  You may find one of these a cheaper option that purchasing the additional loom.  It would however leave the original Renault controls on your wheel in place and useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards space for the looms, you will usually find there is more space than you might imagine behind the dashboard in which you can hide bits of loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T15:58:39.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12834" CreationDate="2015-11-13T16:11:52.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Switch the key in 2 position and check if you hear 8 beeps. These 8 beeps are mandatory for normal startup. If you hear 8 beeps then depress clutch and press accelator between 1/4 to 1/2. Switch the key to ignition gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't hear 8 beeps, get fuel pump checked. It must have choaked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13195" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T16:11:52.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T15:54:18.457" Score="0" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have panels made with foam like the one in the picture, but compressed and glued together to be quite stable. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzply.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzply.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;foam chippings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to glue it to the lower side of the hood of my car to reduce the noise coming out of it. Some more will be applied between engine bay and feet area, to reduce the transmission on that path too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to glue that kind of panels to the painted metal? Is silicon ok? (the one applied with a gun) I know there are various types. I have a tube barely used for my bathroom, and it will dry out if not used, it would a good way to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is Bostik glue (yellow, sticky, elastic also when dry) suitable? I would not use single points but spread a sort of spiral of glue on the panel and then keep it pressed for a while on the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I add also some additional structure (thin wooden frame) to retain the panel for increased safety? The panel is quite light per unit of area, so the vertical force is not relevant, but to be sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I apply to the hood some bitumen/aluminium foil strips to dampen vibrations too? How to stick the dense foam panel to aluminium (or whatever it is) foil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought about using pins sticking through the panel (the part sticking out bent appropriately) and having on the other side a small plate that I can glue to the hood. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/isolatie-bevestigingspennen-zelfklevend-zink-10-stuks/p/B194520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/isolatie-bevestigingspennen-zelfklevend-zink-10-stuks/p/B194520&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning safety and heat resistance: in the appendices of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mvfri.org/Contracts/Final%20Reports/R04-13v01%20Underhood%20Temperatures%201.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; (on 3x as powerful cars as mine) it is shown that the hood never reaches 100°C unless idling for several minutes and at higher RPM than minimum. I will test the foam in the oven to be sure. Also, my mechanic suggested me a similar solution.&#xA;In any case, if this foam appears not to be suitable, I can use sound absorbing foam, with a better fire safety rating. The question above still applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning space: this is a 20+ old car, there is enough space below the hood and also the panel is not thicker than the metal bars already attached to the hood to strengthen it against flexing and torsion. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdwde.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdwde.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cofano&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" OwnerDisplayName="OlafM" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T17:47:35.340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T19:57:32.680" Title="How to glue foam panel to painted metal (underside of car hood)" Tags="|hood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22522" CreationDate="2015-11-13T18:22:18.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure it is a suitable material for the job, then an impact adhesive should do a good job, for example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Impact/6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Impact/6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Datasheet for this glue says it's serviceable temperature range is up to 55 degrees C.  While the hood shouldn't get above this temperature from the engine, especially when protected by the insulation, you may live somewhere where the direct sunlight may raise the panel's temperature quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T18:30:47.643" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T18:30:47.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2015-11-13T19:17:22.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine first starts in cold weather, the oil is warming. The rings on the pistons are reseating, from being cold, therefore contracted! As the engine runs, and warms the rings, they expand, as do the valves, even the Pistons, as do most moving parts. If the car has a standard transmission. One should shift it into neutral in order to warm the drivetrain. Making sure the car is warm enough too do so,without stalling the engine. With the newer aluminum engines there should be even more contraction, &amp;amp; expansion. Internal combustion engines do warm guickly. I idle mine in the cold for approximately a minute or two, and then I shut it down. I than restart it, when I'm ready to go. Usually the car begins to blow heat fairly soon after this  procedure. A car is a major investment. Very ($) expensive to repair. I agree about taking it slow, &amp;amp; keeping the rpm's down until all systems have warmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13198" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T19:17:22.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22522" CreationDate="2015-11-13T20:27:49.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears the material you are describing would be considered and usable for carpet padding (the stuff which goes under carpeting). There is a plethora of reasons for &lt;em&gt;not using something like this&lt;/em&gt; in the manner you've described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat, of course is one of the biggest issues. The stuff you've shown &lt;em&gt;will not handle&lt;/em&gt; the underhood temps which occur. I don't know where you got the information that shows underhood temps will not exceed 100°C, but can tell you engines normally run in excess of this (normally up to 116°C). The area under the bonnet will &lt;em&gt;quite easily&lt;/em&gt; exceed 100°C on a regular basis. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the glue should fail (more than likely, a thin strip which is stuck to the glue will hold, but the rest will separate fall off), this material will fall down onto the exhaust manifolds and catch fire ... poof! There goes the vehicle and whatever investment you have in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the term &quot;&lt;em&gt;Ugly as sin&lt;/em&gt;&quot; mean anything? Enough said ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you is to purchase the materials which are designed to do exactly what you want. One such product is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/dynamat-xtreme/&quot;&gt;Dynamat&lt;/a&gt; (there are others available, you just need to look). Dynamat (or the like) will provide the heat shielding and sound deadening you are looking for without the other worries (ugly/fire). When installed correctly, it will not lose adhesion and fall off. Plus, there is a bunch of different designs to do it exactly like you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T20:27:49.047" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T21:23:55.887" Score="6" ViewCount="2441" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine was misfiring for quite a while.  At some point, the battery went dead due to a bad alternator and all the electrical systems went nuts.   I replaced the alternator &amp;amp; battery.  At some point, I got a po303 diag. code.  I changed plugs &amp;amp; wires the code went away.  The misfiring seemed to go away.  A day or 2 later the po303 code returned after a 100 mile drive.  I pulled #3 plug &amp;amp; wire &amp;amp; reinstalled them.  The code went away.  It seemed to run better for a while.  Then it started misfiring again.  A few days later, it showed a po420 code.  A few days later while researching for a repair to fix the po420 code, the code disappeared.  A few days later It got a po306 code. Misfires in #3 then in #6 suggested a bad coil tower &amp;amp; I replaced it.  It seemed to run great.  A day or so later, it started to misfire again.  At this point the misfire seems worse after first starting the vehicle.  At one point today, when we sat at a traffic light in gear it missed.  Putting it in neutral or parks, cleared the misfire.  After parking for 30 minutes, it misfires both in gear or out of gear.  Any suggestions would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13200" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-14T00:44:19.470" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T06:30:58.130" Title="2005 Dodge Caravan - Erratic Misfire" Tags="|engine|ignition|dodge|misfire|caravan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T22:10:38.340" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a pretty experienced DIY-er, but I'm not familiar with the process for lifting a car. How involved is the process for just 2-3 inches, and can it be done for a vehicle that doesn't necessarily have a lift &quot;kit&quot; available? A 2006 Pontiac G6 GT (sedan), in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T22:10:38.340" Title="How involved (crazy) is it to lift my Pontiac a couple of inches?" Tags="|suspension|lift-kit|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-13T22:48:22.647" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;On two occasions since I purchased my 2004 Infinity G35 a year ago, the car was garaged for more than 10 days without being started. When I did start it, the engine screamed at me as I backed the car out. When I shfted into Drive and accelerated slightly, it screamed for a few more seconds, then stopped screaming. This happened once, then I drove the car for a two-week period and it was garaged again, resulting in the same action. Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13202" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-14T01:55:04.903" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T01:55:04.903" Title="Car screams after 14-day non-use upon start-up" Tags="|battery|noise|g35|infiniti|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1799" CreationDate="2015-11-13T23:32:38.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any lag when the foot is lifted is likely to cause wear on the facings. It is&#xA;possible that with a cable that doesn't slide easily in the outer, this would&#xA;happen. With a hydraulic system that has not been maintained ie old fluid with&#xA;water in it &amp;amp; worn cups or rusty worn cylinder bores lag could also happen.&#xA;Subaru first series 1600 had a cable &amp;amp; 2 litre hydraulic. I'm thinking the&#xA;2 litre clutch is likely to be heavier &amp;amp; a hydraulic system would be easier to&#xA;engineer than altering the pedal leverage.&#xA;   I had a car with a hydraulic system that had no maintenance &amp;amp; the clutch&#xA;facings were worn out at a fairly low mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13203" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T23:32:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22528" CreationDate="2015-11-14T01:54:46.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is the battery was drained someone, but not enough to keep it from starting. Upon starting, the alternator went into overdrive trying to recharge it. In doing so, the serpentine belt slipped some in complaint until it got warm enough to keep a tighter grip and/or the battery had recharged enough to allow the alternator to chill out a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need a new serpentine belt. If the one you have is old, it may be slipping due to not being able to have enough grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to let your car sit for a similar amount of time, you may want to put a trickle charger on it while the car sits, or consider disconnecting the battery. Every car has a small amount of parasitic loss at the battery and yours is no different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T01:54:46.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22506" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:11:03.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't tell you for sure (I've never done the swap), but they should be basically the same engine. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine#1MZ-FE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wiki article&lt;/a&gt;, the Lexus ES300 &amp;amp; RX300, plus the Toyota Avalon &amp;amp; Highlander used the same engine, which is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L engine with VVT-i. If the cover you are talking about is different, you should be able to swap it out. Realistically, if you had to, you could strip both down to the bare long block and swap over all the parts to make the new (to you) engine fit your Highlander without an issue. May take a little bit of swapping, but they are the same base engine. They should even have the same HP (210). In most cases, when you get to 2004 and beyond, Toyota started installing the 3MZ-FE into these same vehicles, which is probably completely different. (NOTE: The article does say the 2003-2006 Camry with the 3.0L V6 is still the 1MZ-FE motor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T02:11:03.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T02:34:40.573" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got this habit of engaging the gear mode to neutral when I am in a smaller downhill and engaging back to drive mode if I need to further slow down or speed up. The primary objective of this habit is with an eye on fuel economy. But is it really a good habit to be followed since I'm a bit skeptical that it may affect auto transmission adversely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13204" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T15:13:17.943" Title="Neutral Gear Significance during slight downhills in Auto Transmission" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-11-16T23:26:25.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22532" CreationDate="2015-11-14T13:47:08.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is in a grey territory. It can't be said &quot;stop doing that right now&quot; but at the same time it can't be said &quot;keep doing that it's perfect.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A transmission is designed to operate during normal driving conditions without driver intervention. Going up hills and down hills is not a concern. Some SUVs have a feature that allows safely descending a very steep incline, but that's really and acceptation to the rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time constantly shifting the transmission is causing unnecessary wear and tare. If the shifter in your car has a theoretical mean time between failure of a million cycles then it will last a long time under normal driving conditions. If your shifting your car 12 times every time you drive then it will fail sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is like doing a shot of vodka every day. It won't kill you today or tomorrow or even next week. Collage students live their lives like this for years. It becomes far more difficult to say that doing that one shot a day will shorten your life and by how much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T13:47:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13014" CreationDate="2015-11-14T17:31:55.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance that you have a loose headlight assembly bolt. Grab the headlight assy. and try moving it in different directions. if this isn't the case, the lamp adjustment screw could be broken and you'd likely need a new assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try using different sizes of phillips head screwdrivers. chances are the shaft of the driver is too wide to turn the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T17:31:55.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22526" CreationDate="2015-11-14T17:49:07.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an electrical leakage. If the cables will reach, put cables 3+6 on 1,2,4 or 5 and see if the misfire persists on 3/6. if it does, check the coils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The p0420 code refers to a low catalyst threshold. If your misfire isn't due to a leakage, you might have a bad catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T17:49:07.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T03:54:38.303" Score="4" ViewCount="3919" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is 2001 BMW 330i. I have changed ignition coil, spark and IAC. Last week, my car experienced rough idle. Then I changed the coolant temp sensor today. After adding coolant and bleeding, the car ran smoothly in the day time (about 2 hours) without rough idle. I drove the car out tonight. The low coolant light turned on. After driving the car for five minutes with coolant light on, rough idle came back. After restarting the engine, the car became normal again. Any clue for fixing this notorious rough idle issue for E46?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional issue:&lt;/strong&gt; The heater blows only cold air when the car is idle. (I live in Los Angeles. Never use heater.) This might be a sign of bad thermostat. Will this cause rough idle? In theory, bad thermostat might prevent coolant circulating and cause overheating of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13209" LastEditorUserId="13209" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T18:04:43.283" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T17:59:10.947" Title="E46 rough idle with coolant light on" Tags="|coolant|bmw|cooling-system|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11938" CreationDate="2015-11-15T08:46:25.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A defective thermostat which is not fully opening can cause the kind of problem where you have one leak, fix it and then you spring another leak fairly shortly afterwards.  So I would first of all check the thermostat.  There is also a hose on the right side that goes from the water pump and thermostat to the radiator.  My 626 had a bad thermostat and it caused it to leak from the clamps at that hose, which is adjacent to the water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video which shows you how to &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NOXFKX-YzuI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check if a thermostat is good or not&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T17:35:59.637" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:35:59.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T13:50:08.200" Score="6" ViewCount="12484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C4 1.4 with 1360cc 16V KFU / ET3J4 petrol engine with 120.000 km. This problem appeared 3 - 4 years ago at around 40.000 km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold / hot there is a flat spot between 1000 - 2500 RPM's, and very low power. Ocassionaly when starting the car cold or hot, it would shake without wanting to rev up before shutting down. Smell from exhaust is best described like fault fuel smell. When driving and pressing the gas pedal instantly, there's a half second lag before the power actually kicks in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a constant Antipollution Fault error on the dash, and scans showed that there is a &lt;strong&gt;P0171 (Richness Adjustment: Bottom Limit)&lt;/strong&gt; code stored in memory, although after cleaning the code it didn't showed up again. (The ECU is Magnetti Marelli). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far &lt;strong&gt;I've checked the plugs, coil pack, EGR valve and MAP sensor&lt;/strong&gt;. I've been to a Citroen service center and all they did was clean the throttle body, but this doesn't really cured the problem, it only maked the power curve of the car a bit strange. &lt;strong&gt;(I've also noticed that the mechanics in the Citroen dealership drilled a small hole in the throttle flap because the flap apparently only oppened 80%?)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I've also been to a friend of my who makes some readings and concluded that the front lambda sensor is faulty, but after disconnecting the sensor from the car, the simptoms were there and the car feeled exactly the same!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any experience with this engine and this kind of problem? What should be the next step I should take in finding the core of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13210" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T11:33:10.163" Title="Citroen C4 - Poor idle and low rev performance?" Tags="|power|rough-idle|peugeot|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22522" CreationDate="2015-11-15T16:15:15.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the recommendations from other answers and the need for a heat resistant glue, capable of holding at least 100°C, spray glues are not suitable, at least the ones I found in the biggest store around here. In general they hold 60-80°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid glues (that hold foam and paper extremely well) also are not certified for temperatures above 80°C, usually. At least not the ones available. Furthermore, not all of them are suitable for metallic surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicon glues can hold to 80°C and some even up to 120°C. Among the ones suitable for metals and resistant to both water and UV (and rated for outdoor use) I found the glue &quot;100%&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pattex.nl/dhz/producten/100-procent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pattex.nl/dhz/producten/100-procent.html&lt;/a&gt;) suitable up to 110°C. It is not officially suggested for PE, PP and PTFE but since I don't know the composition of the sound absorbing foam, I tried it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact, it penetrates enough in the foam and bonds so strongly to the bitumen tape (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bostikdhz.nl/uploads/Products/product_9/TI_BitBand_Zelfklevend.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bostikdhz.nl/uploads/Products/product_9/TI_BitBand_Zelfklevend.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) that trying to separate the two materials, after about 18 hours, produces strnog tearing of the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the considerations about usefulness of the foam to reduce noise from the engine compartment (see comments) and about safety are still valid, but if a glue is needed to fix foam to metal, the silicone one could be a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T16:15:15.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22545" CreationDate="2015-11-15T18:28:39.443" Score="2" ViewCount="2269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started my new snowblower today to try to break it in.  Within maybe a minute it started emitting a &quot;burning metal&quot; smell.  I stopped it and there was some smoke coming out of the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was perhaps low oil but I didn't have any handy.  I'll definitely be picking some up later, however, I was hoping this might just be a normal smell of a new engine being broken in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find anything in the literature or while browsing online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ariens Compact ST24LE Two‑Stage Snow Blower, 24&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13211" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T23:33:48.980" Title="Snow Blower Break In Smell" Tags="|troubleshooting|smell|small-engine|break-in|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22544" CreationDate="2015-11-15T18:56:08.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell and smoke will just be oil from the manufacturing process burning off the hot parts.  Have you read the manual, it should show you how to check the oil level without having to buy more.  I am presuming here that it is a four stroke engine with oil in the sump.  Can you verify that it is not a two stroke engine that you have to add oil to the fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update-&#xA;Looks like it is 4 stroke, so you won't need oil in the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T19:05:10.850" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:05:10.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22549" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:39:14.163" Score="3" ViewCount="9838" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21028/rough-low-idle-and-engine-shakes-wobbles-momentarily-on-acceleration&quot;&gt;having some engine trouble&lt;/a&gt; with my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L, specifically a low, rough idle and lack of power on acceleration.  One of the things the WSM says to check for both these problems is compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did both dry and wet compression tests and came up with the following numbers.  I turned the engine over once each time, then went around to the engine to record the reading ( real pita and took awhile ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73HI4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73HI4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm inclined to think compression is not the source of my problem there are some things going on here which I don't understand on cylinder #2.  The first time I cranked it both times I got a really low reading, so I released the pressure and started over, I may have done too short a crank.  Both times, after finishing the fourth cylinder I went back to the second one to take an additional set of readings.  On the wet test I even did a third test.  I'm wondering if maybe there is something going on with the spark plug threads in that cylinder, maybe there's a crack there or some other problem with the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T23:02:23.607" Title="Interpreting Cylinder Compression Readings" Tags="|engine|compression|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22546" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:57:53.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure why you have so many numbers.  You should just keep cranking the engine until you get a steady reading on the compression gauge.  From the numbers you have, it looks like No3 could be a little low due to piston ring wear, since it seems to improve the most in the wet test, but it doesn't seem too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T20:57:53.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22546" CreationDate="2015-11-15T23:02:23.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks of it, you're going about your compression test incorrectly. You should rotate the engine, using the starter, for the same number of revolutions with each cylinder. This will give you a truer tale of what's going on. Usually 4-5 revolutions gets the job done. The reason you want the same amount of revolutions for each cylinder is so the tests will be even. You can do this for both dry and wet. There really should &lt;em&gt;only be&lt;/em&gt; one reading per cylinder for each of the wet and dry cycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your numbers, it's really hard to tell what's going on with all of the numbers you have present. I'm not understanding #2 either. From the looks of it, the wet was lower than the dry on the first go around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking over the numbers, if we take a look at your wet numbers and assume the second column on the second cylinder is good, your numbers are spot on. Your #4 has a little higher reading, but everything else looks good (if not a little high). According to what I saw, your compression for the Mazda 4-cyl should be between 120 to 180 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main things you are looking for when doing a compression test. First, you are checking to ensure the numbers are within range of where they are supposed to be (the 120-180 psi numbers), which your numbers are. The second thing to look for is that the numbers are all within a certain percentage of each other. I don't know specifically what that should be for your Mazda, but as it sits, it's at about 14% difference between cylinders 3 and 4 on the dry tests. Considering the wet tests appear to be right in line with each other (181, 180, 181, 185), I'd actually wonder about the validity of the dry test on cylinder #3 and redo it at some point. But the numbers on the wet side looks right were they should be. If the engine has a few miles on it, you'd expect there to be a little wear, which is what the tests are showing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wondering about a good procedure for doing your tests, I found this one by &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/X_tbksFYhl4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eric the Car Guy&lt;/a&gt; which is pretty good. He's a little long winded, but he gets the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T23:02:23.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22554" CreationDate="2015-11-16T04:51:52.717" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a student studying motive power program at a college. Our instructor gave us an assignment to find out the specific vehicle's compressor type and which component is used TXV (throttle expansion valve) or orifice tube. My vehicle is 2010 Lexus RX450h. I just find it too hard to find it on website so I wonder if someone could tell me and would give me the website address. I'll really appreciate it! Please help me. Thank you very much!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13218" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T08:35:42.203" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T08:35:42.203" Title="What compressor type does 2010 Lexus RX450h use" Tags="|ac|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22552" CreationDate="2015-11-16T07:54:01.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compressor is a scroll type driven by a variable speed 288 volt three phase motor. The speed is controlled by the A/C system controller that uses neural network logic to calculate the required refrigerant volume needed based on learned values of this vehicle in its usual climate and usage pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the TVX vs Tube question. The system uses a newer style micropore orifice tube design that is built into the evaporator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T07:54:01.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22559" CreationDate="2015-11-16T09:29:51.947" Score="5" ViewCount="8086" Body="&lt;p&gt;While searching for information about how is engine load calculated I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17537/how-is-engine-load-determined&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which contains an equation for the ECU load calculations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it under fixed atmospheric conditions engine load depends only on current airflow and RPM (which determines peak airflow at wide open throttle), as other members of the equation can be considered to be constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't really understand how can different load values be measured on a naturally aspirated engine when quickly fully opening the throttle in neutral and climbing a hill at WOT in top gear. As far as I know 100% load value can't be reached in neutral, why? Fully open throttle should allow maximum airflow for the RPM in neutral and hillclimb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After testing on my own car, 100% load indeed CAN be reached, but only for a very brief moment, it drops before max revs are reached. Not quite sure what causes this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T07:07:15.817" Title="Can 100% calculated load be reached in neutral?" Tags="|engine|rpm|air-intake|engine-theory|engine-load|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T10:19:41.880" Score="4" ViewCount="11233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a number of different recommendations on how many times to cranks the engine during a compression test.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read those that say to crank until you reach a stable reading.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1557882452&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engine Builder's Handbook&lt;/a&gt;, pg. 12, Monroe says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Crank the engine over four times - no more and no less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00B03G2DK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mazda 626 Haynes manual&lt;/a&gt;, pg 2C-6, &quot;General Engine Overhaul Procedures&quot; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Crank the engine over at least seven compression strokes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So who's correct, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T04:53:30.453" Title="How Many Times to Crank During a Compression Test" Tags="|compression|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22556" CreationDate="2015-11-16T11:48:58.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air flow is purely based on throttle position and engine revs on a normally aspirated engine, adding a charger (turbo etc) adds complication.  With the throttle fully open, every inlet stroke is going to take the maximum amount of air (and therefore fuel) into the cylinder.  This air intake can then be multiplied by the engine revs.  If the throttle is not fully open, then quite clearly you are restricting the air flow into the engine and so each inlet stroke will not be at full air/fuel capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that if you put your foot flat to the floor in neutral, you will allow maximum air in and the revs will quickly build up to the rev limiter.  All the power produced by the engine will be going in to accelerating the engine and flywheel etc at it's maximum rate.  The acceleration of the mass of the engine is in effect the load on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T15:54:49.370" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T15:54:49.370" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T14:48:23.543" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible / safe to use winter tyres of 195/50R15 on a golf currently fitted with 205/55R16?  My son changed his car and tells me if he gets his winter tyres fitted to different rims because if the diameter size it'll be fine. I'm a typically worried mum and would appreciate any advice.  Thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13221" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:46:13.553" Title="Winter tyre sizing" Tags="|tires|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22532" CreationDate="2015-11-16T15:13:17.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that we're talking about a vehicle with electronic fuel injection, leave it in drive. You'll actually use more fuel shifting into neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you release your foot from the accelerator, the throttle position sensor will signal the computer to cut all fuel injection. For the duration of the hill (or as long as you keep your foot off the accelerator) you will use no fuel at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the engine RPM falls below a certain point, the ecu will introduce fuel again so the engine won't die. This is exactly what happens when you put the transmission in neutral while coasting. Instead of using no fuel at all, it has to use some to keep the engine idling while you're coasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T15:13:17.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T15:24:01.750" Score="0" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been googling diesel run in, and generally encounter two opinions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first is treat it gently for the first 1000k, and do not exceed 2,000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second is drive it at 3/4 revs, maybe 2,500 to 3,000 revs depending on the engines operating range. And don't treat it gently, apply load and get the engine working as hard as you can within this range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is right and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add the particular engine I am thinking of is my Toyota 3L from 1992, just re-built. Its a straight 4, no turbo. But I'm also interested in general about diesels including more modern ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12694" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T15:26:12.643" Title="When breaking in a diesel - treat it gently or drive it?" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22556" CreationDate="2015-11-16T16:47:18.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine load is determined by a ratio between current air flow and the maximum air flow at the same RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine computer has a look up table of maximum air flow as a function of RPM for WOT values. This table is generated by the manufacturer using an engine dynamometer. To generate the table the engine RPM is held constant (with the dynamometer) and the throttle is held wide open to get the value. This is repeated for all RPM values at standard pressure and temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equation you quote gives you a fraction of maximum load by dividing current air flow by maximum air flow (as picked from the look up table) and compensated for current barometric pressure and current temperature. This is very fundamental for naturally aspirated engines because at any RPM there is only a single maximum air flow value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you talk about super charged or turbo charged engines the only difference is that it has a different look up table of maximum air flow at WOT. This look up table that is just like for the naturally aspirated engines. The table is also generated in a similar manner where the engine RPM is held constant at a WOP condition but then the boost is varied from naturally aspirated to maximum boost. This generates a multi dimensional look up table where every RPM has multiple maximum air flow rates depending on boost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here the boost management depends on the specific manufacturer. Some may limit boost in neutral some may not. But the calculation depends on current air rate and the value from the look up table that is found using current RPM and current boost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T16:47:18.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22560" CreationDate="2015-11-16T17:37:52.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is 100% safe and in fact it is quite common to people (including my self) to use smaller set of rims in the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why many people do it because the smaller diameter tires are usually cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in tire diameter causes the speedometer reading to be inaccurate by about 9% in this case. Meaning, with the smaller tire, if the speedometer is showing 60Mph, the car is acutally going at 54.5Mph. So your son is actually driving slower than what he thinks he is driving at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information can be found at: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T17:46:13.553" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:46:13.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T18:48:21.717" Score="2" ViewCount="6328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the passenger side front shock on my 2009 Mazda 5 almost a year ago. It has been making noises, and upon inspection I see the coil is rubbing on the nearby metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IN6QB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IN6QB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overview of area&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bO3z4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bO3z4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spot on metal that is clearly being rubbed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to check if the parts store gave me the right part, or if I've installed it incorrectly. It attaches via three bolts at the top, and is clamped at the bottom, and I don't see a way to adjust its placement, but I'm probably missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I resolve this rubbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the comment, here's a picture of the strut upper mount. I did not replace any of it, as it appeared to be in good condition, but I do see that the top of the shock is off center towards the side that's rubbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnDK6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnDK6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;top strut mount &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastEditorUserId="3218" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T04:04:15.227" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T08:14:33.623" Title="How do I stop my shock spring from rubbing?" Tags="|noise|suspension|body|wear|springs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:05:51.270" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son has a 2003 Ford Escape V6, that will all of a sudden have a loss of all gauges while he is driving and then they will come right back up with no loss of power. There has been times he has called me because his car won't start, it will turn over just fine, but, just not start. When I get there I check it with a OBD II reader and it shows no codes. After trying to start it several times it just won't fire up, then all of a sudden you try it again and it starts right up and is usually good for quite some time. As far as the gauges going off and on very quick it does that about once a week. It's got a new alternator and battery which needed to be replaced, but, it still does it. Any information would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13226" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T19:05:51.270" Title="loss of gauges on a 2003 Ford Escape" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22556" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:15:58.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Doesn't it suck up only as much as engine speed and throttle position allows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;No, &lt;strong&gt;throttle position&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;engine load&lt;/strong&gt; determine the quantity of air consumed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be quite hard to understand at first how a naturally-aspirated engine can ingest different quantities of air at the same RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the &lt;em&gt;Engine Management Fundamentals&lt;/em&gt; chapter of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0837603005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bosch Fuel Injection &amp;amp; Engine Management&lt;/a&gt; book has to say on the topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fuel delivery requirements depend more than anything else on how much work you are asking the engine to do - or how much of a &quot;load&quot; you are placing on it. To accelerate, you step down harder on the accelerator. This opens the throttle valve, increasing manifold pressure. The greater pressure difference between the manifold and the cylinders increases intake air flow, and therefore fuel flow, to increase power and accelerate the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Driving down a level road, you can cruise along comfortably and maintain a desired speed with a relatively small throttle opening. When you come to a hill, it is necessary to pressure farther down on the accelerator to maintain the same speed, even though engine rpm is unchanged. The hill has demanded more work from the engine - created a higher load - and the engine has demanded more air and fuel to match that load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regardless of engine speed, the air flow and fuel delivery demands of the engine depend on the load being placed upon it. That load, and the resulting throttle opening, directly affect manifold pressure. Manifold pressure in turn affects air flow and thus fuel requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above-quoted should be enough to answer your question, but here are my original musings on the topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The internal combustion engine is a volumetric device&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it operates by taking in a certain &lt;em&gt;volume&lt;/em&gt; of air-fuel mixture during the intake stroke. This is important to keep in mind because...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Volumetric efficiency impacts how much air and fuel is actually taken in&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a 2.0 L 4-stroke engine could be running at 2000 RPM, and one might expect that the engine should consume 2.0 * 2000 / 2 = 2000 L of air-fuel mixture per minute, when in reality it consumes something closer to 1700 L. The reason for this is volumetric efficiency, which is the ratio of what is actually consumed to the theoretical consumption based on engine size and speed alone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Volumetric efficiency is affected by load&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's build on the car in neutral vs uphill example by adding a third scenario where the car is running on level ground. The torque required by the engine to maintain a certain speed will vary depending on the external loads on the vehicle as per the ASCII diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LOW                                                    HIGH&#xA;--------------------------  TORQUE ------------------------&amp;gt;&#xA;&#xA;Neutral                     Level Ground         Uphill&#xA;[2000 RPM]                  [2000 RPM]           [2000 RPM]&#xA;&#xA;Auxiliaries                 Auxiliaries          Auxiliaries&#xA;                          + Aero Drag          + Aero Drag&#xA;                          + Drivetrain         + Drivetrain&#xA;                                               + Car Weight&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different torque (&quot;load&quot;) demands will result in the engine altering the volumetric efficiency to adjust the air-fuel mixture accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the load on the engine governs the volume of air/fuel that is ingested. This is also why it is possible to determine the absolute load on the engine if one knows the volumetric air flow and engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T11:57:17.980" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T11:57:17.980" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22491" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:56:09.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did finally figure this out. The newer Focus uses CANBus to detect bulb and circuit faults, so the brake light circuit ALWAYS has 12v going through it, with a clamped amperage to prevent the bulb from illuminating. When you press the brake pedal, the &quot;clamp&quot; goes away, allowing the bulb to glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factor, is the car's BCM detects load on the circuit, so wiring the trailer lights DIRECTLY to the brake like circuit also causes a fault as the BCM is seeing too much draw and not only faults, but shuts down the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution to both issues is to wire in a SPST relay and source 12v from the battery directly (actually there's a conveniently placed fuse box in the rear hatch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T19:56:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23482" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:08:58.710" Score="7" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed while trying measure cam lobe to lifter clearances on a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L, was that when I rotate the crankshaft there seems to be one spot where I have to put in a lot more effort to turn it than in the rest of the revolution.  Like it was really sticking at one particular spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that indicative of anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It felt a little stiff when valves I1+E3 were about to open, when I4+E2 were about to open and really stiff when I3+E4 were about to open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I got a good momentum going while turning the crankshaft I didn't feel it so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also measured cam to lifter clearances.  Spec is 0.23mm to 0.30mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Cyl #   |  1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Intake  | .24 | .29 | .24 | .24 |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Exhaust | .29 | .24 | .29 | .24 |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what to make of it, maybe some of the spring are just a little stiffer than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T17:43:10.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T04:19:28.073" Title="Sticking While Rotating Crankshaft By Hand" Tags="|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:13:21.417" Score="5" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a BigBlock Demon and have just bought the motor I plan to swap into it. It came from a '75 Dodge truck and is unmolested in terms of bores and modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor was a '75 440 married to an auto 727, it had 38k original miles and the valves all look pretty immaculate. My question is that I was just going to replace some seals and basic things like that but a buddy is telling me I will need to rebuild the motor, since I basically bought a 'core'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How true is this? Should I be worried about running it without an entire bottom or at least top end rebuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am shooting for 350 - 400 hp max so it's not like it would be running 10s or any insane strip days. Just a weekend toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13227" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T01:17:12.167" Title="How much should I replace in a motor swap? (Plymouth 440)" Tags="|dodge|rebuild|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22576" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:20:14.337" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila always seems to steam up constantly while driving, in all weathers. I do not have a damp problem in the car either, everywhere seems dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air selector is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; on recirculate mode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating works, and the fan is fine (seems to run okay, good airflow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have AC so I can't leave this running to dehumidify the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have even bought a 12v dehumidifier to try and solve the problem, but this doesn't seem to work that well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always have to drive with the heater on full, which makes the car unbearably hot, or drive with the window wide open, which makes the car very cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I can do to stop my windows misting up while driving?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T21:47:37.920" Title="How to stop car steaming up?" Tags="|hvac|opel|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22575" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:30:40.523" Score="6" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased some snow chains, but the manual provides fitting instructions, and it only says to remove them when the road is completely clear of snow, and never drive faster than 40mph (about 65kph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any other precautions that I should take when using snow chains?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snow chains are permitted on the front wheels on my front wheel drive car. It also says they must not be used on the rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why can't I use snow chains on the rear wheels?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are snow chains likely to cause tyre damage if used properly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2020-06-02T08:05:05.913" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T08:05:05.913" Title="What precautions should I take when using snow chains?" Tags="|tires|wheels|winter|wear|snow-chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:31:24.430" Score="3" ViewCount="9576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an oil change at jiffy lube at 10,000 miles. I have just gone to another jiffy lube and was told that the oil is one inch too high. I have not added any oil. I have driven in normal conditions for approximately 7,500 miles. Will this damage my car in any way? Do I need to check anything out in my car to confirm that it is fine? I read that my catalytic converter could be at risk from this. Is this something that I need to worry about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2014 Kia Optima &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13228" LastEditorUserId="13228" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T18:32:44.453" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T18:32:44.453" Title="Jiffy lube put too much oil in my car" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-11-18T22:23:03.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22573" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:43:21.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other precautions that I should take when using snow chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really ... what they give in the instructions are spot on. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO NOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; exceed the 40mph or vehicle damage will ensue. You can also lose control of the vehicle if running faster than recommended. Running chains on bare roadways will cause damage to the road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why can't I use snow chains on the rear wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only want them on the drive tires. It will drag your vehicle down having them on non-drive tires. It could actually make things worse than without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are snow chains likely to cause tyre damage if used properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if used properly, no it is not likely. What you really have to pay attention to is if any part of the chain starts flying around because it is not properly secured, you could ensue vehicle damage (wheel well, fender, drive components, brake lines, etc). Going too fast with them on the vehicle is the &lt;em&gt;easiest&lt;/em&gt; way to cause this type of damage. Follow the instructions to ensure you don't have issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T21:43:21.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22572" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:47:37.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try just driving with a window open a crack to allow the inside to breath a little bit. It's your breath which usually causes the windshield to mist up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, use a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/rain-x/anti-fog-mpn-af21106d.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rain-X Anti-Fog&lt;/a&gt;. By ensuring your windshield is first clean and then by applying the product, there is nothing for the humidity to stick to, so no fog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T21:47:37.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:58:14.053" Score="2" ViewCount="15524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to hook up a 1000W inverter inside my van. I can't hook it up directly to my cigarette lighter because the lighter only gives about 100W-120W. &#xA;I want to pick up a separate deep cycle battery to run the inverter from but I need to be able to charge it while my van is running. If I plugged the extra battery into my cigarette lighter would it create a parallel circuit with my van battery and would it charge while I drive?&#xA;I have a feeling it's not that simple. If that's the case any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="NinjaTom" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T00:48:40.153" Title="Charging a spare car battery with my car" Tags="|charging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2015-11-16T22:38:58.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put the deep cycle battery in parallel to your main car battery. DO NOT DO THIS VIA THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER AS YOU MAY BLOW A FUSE. Connect it positive to positive and negative to ground (could be frame ground or the ground terminal). On your ground cable place a battery isolator (in your case a 150 amp or greater continuous solenoid). Then connect you inverter to the battery isolator. When your car is running switch the battery isolator so your deep cycle battery is connected to your starting and stopping battery. Your alternator will then attempt to charge both. You may need to upgrade your alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12711" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T22:38:58.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T23:40:34.530" Score="1" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to replace rotors on a 1988 Dodge Ram 50 (2.6L, 4WD). To remove the rotors, I need to use a special socket (visible around the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/To5vh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;auto free hub&lt;/a&gt; ) and the special locknut socket. Are there any suggestions on where I might find these tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/To5vh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Auto free hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2879" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T19:45:25.827" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T20:20:46.567" Title="Locating Special Tools for Auto Free Hub Removal" Tags="|brake-rotor|tools|4wd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T23:55:28.770" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a project for class about the Harley Davidson Fatboy, and I need to find the values for the spring constant of the bike used in Terminator 2, and whether or not it used a custom suspension. I found the normal suspension used in the 1990 Fatboy are telescopic forks with a 5.1 inch wheel travel in the front and twin shocks with a 4.1 inch wheel travel in the rear, but I cannot find their actual values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13229" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T23:55:28.770" Title="Terminator 2 1990 Harley Davidson Fatboy FLSTF technical information" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-03T21:44:53.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22574" CreationDate="2015-11-17T00:32:01.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is something you need to worry about. Most likely as Handy Howie points out, it could be fuel leaking through the fuel pump into the crankcase of your engine, raising the apparent amount of oil, but now it would be diluted with fuel. so far you probably have a really clean engine if this is what's happening, but as it gets worse, this could cause trouble. Best to have a qualified mechanic determine the cause of this and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T00:32:01.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22571" CreationDate="2015-11-17T01:17:12.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you already have the heads off. If this is right, check the bores for anything unusual. I'm assuming this is the case if you are looking for the HP you say ... Not going to get that stock with a truck block. That means at least a cam, but probably a set of heads as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it truly only has as many miles as you say, you should still see cross hatch in the cylinder bores. Check all of the cylinders. No cross hatch, rebuild it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second thing to check for is to ensure there's no ring ridge at the top of the bore. If you see a ring ridge at the top, you'll want to rebuild it, 'cause the engine has more miles on it than what you were thinking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third thing to check for is if there is any scratches or scuffs in the cylinder bores. You'll want to check this from the top and bottom sides of the pistons. If you see scratches, there's a good chance there's a broken ring, which means a rebuild. If you see scuffs, that means abuse and will need rebuilt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you see any pitting in the cylinders, it has seen some open valves and some atmosphere, and thus rust ... You guessed it, rebuild time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the pan off, you can Plastiguage the bearings. If they meet spec and look in good shape (which they should be with that little amount mileage), the bottom end should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, though, if you have it all apart, busting the glaze in the cylinders, with new rings and bearings, is cheap insurance. Is it absolutely necessary? Absolutely not. If you want it to last for a good long while, you might want to consider dropping a just a little more money into it just to ensure its fresh. You can probably do it without any machining of the block (unless you want to &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; do it right by doing an align hone on the mains and square deck the block and ... You get the picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't pulled it apart, you can do a compression test on each of the cylinders to ensure they are in good shape. If you are seeing good pressures without too much of a difference, it's probably in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T01:17:12.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2015-11-17T05:37:11.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just connect a discharged battery with no control then it will initially try and charge very quickly. If you try and do it through the cigarette lighter this will blow a fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various methods of setting up a dual battery system with different pros/cons. Almost all of them will want a higher current connection than a cigarette lighter socket can deliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/split-charging.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/split-charging.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T05:37:11.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22558" CreationDate="2015-11-17T06:57:52.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One pump; one pump only.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which test we perform determines the procedure used. Three procedures are described and each test has a different purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But keep in mind when the engine is running it only gets one pump per cycle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running compression test:&lt;/strong&gt;  A decent way to estimate volumetric efficiency (VE). This is not technically a compression test.&#xA;Install a screw in gauge into on cylinder and run the engine at idle.  Now read the max pressure for each compression stroke. “Burp” the pressure out of the gauge after each stroke. Average 5 readings.  There are no published specs for this test. Compare cylinders to each other. Normal readings are 75 psi. The normal range is 50 to 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cranking compression tests&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wide open throttle. Battery fully charged, ignition disabled. Fuel disabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First pump test:&lt;/strong&gt;  Same method as the running test, burp after each pump. The reading should be at least one half of the reading of the max compression test listed below.  Depending on compression ratio and carbon deposit volume. I find this test gives a better indication of cylinder leakage due to worn cylinders and leaking valves because this value is the only one the cylinder actually sees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Max compression test:&lt;/strong&gt;  The traditional test. I pump till max pressure is reached. I count pumps, the more it takes the more likely leaks are present. Others will have a number of pumps they prefer. Average reading for a normally aspirated gas engine is 180psi. 200 plus could mean excess carbon deposits. Low means leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T06:57:52.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22566" CreationDate="2015-11-17T08:14:33.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check/replace the strut's top mount.  The rubber may be worn allowing excessive movement at the top of the strut.  Try pulling in the strut to see if the top mount moves excessively.  If the rubber looks OK and nothing is worn, try loosening the mounting bolts and see if it can be relocated slightly to move the spring away from the panel it is rubbing against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T08:14:33.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2015-11-17T08:27:23.837" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All so check the timing if the belt is too tight then the engine is overloading the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T08:27:23.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-17T10:52:41.650" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha Virago XV125 on a Y plate, this gives the year 2001, but the V5C says the date of first reg is 2000 and DVSA say that it's 2001, who do I trust for this??  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;I'm sure Yamaha stopped making them in 2000...&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13234" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T05:32:26.047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T05:32:26.047" Title="Yamaha Virago XV125 registration year" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|virago|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22710" CreationDate="2015-11-17T10:56:40.550" Score="4" ViewCount="6147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do taillights usually use red glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why are the indicator lights usually with yellow/orange glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13235" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T12:02:12.933" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T19:12:04.287" Title="Why are taillights usually colored red?" Tags="|lights|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22589" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:22:25.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, because regulations demand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tail lamps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECE R7 (which covers all of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Africa) demands two red tail lamps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regulations defined in SAE J585e apply in the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For turn signals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECE R6 demands two yellow lamps for front, rear and side indicators&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SAE J588 permits red or yellow for the rear and side turn-signal lamps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T12:22:25.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-17T14:03:13.950" Score="1" ViewCount="2508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two remotes for Chevy Malibu I need to program them so my security alarm will work can I do this myself? If so how is it done? I have a 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13239" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T22:32:53.797" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T22:32:53.797" Title="How do you program the keyless entry remote for a 2012 Chevy Malibu" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22592" CreationDate="2015-11-17T17:06:01.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After consulting some online databases (google.com), special dealer equipment is needed to program the remote for a 2012 Malibu.  Some GM cars to have a manual procedure to learn remotes, but this doesn't appear to be one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T17:06:01.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22589" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:23:34.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) does not define regulation, it reflects it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the United States the Code of Federal Regulations defines the rules for general safety in automobiles.  In this case case, the DOT (Department of Transportation) has defined this framework and has published it in the CFR's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for the CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) as reflected in the FMCSA website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="13315" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T19:12:04.287" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T19:12:04.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22648" CreationDate="2015-11-17T20:05:52.950" Score="4" ViewCount="18159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to jump start a 2008 Ford Focus and I am using my wife's 2006 S60 Volvo. This Volvo has the battery in the trunk and the owner's manual says not to use that for jump starts. Instead, it recommends using the engine compartment. Unfortunately, there's nothing more explained in the manual. Where is the positive and negative terminals under the Volvo hood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13242" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T18:43:07.050" Title="Where is positive and negative terminals under hood of 2006 Volvo S60?" Tags="|battery|volvo|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-17T22:24:10.620" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always checked the trans fluids and one day as i was heading out i started to give it gas and it went for a bit than as i pushed more on the gas...it would not go forward anymore. i than put it in park and back in drive again and still no movement forward. Had an idea it might be my tranny so i put it in reverse...it did go backwards but than after a while as i started to back up more and i noticed as i pushed more on the gas...It would go anywhere either....could it be something els or do i face it that i do need a new tranny for my car???(ughhh!!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13245" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T22:33:58.957" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T00:52:43.757" Title="03 chevy impala trasmission will not go forward nor backwards" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-17T22:27:13.520" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually start my car up for around 10-20 minutes before actually driving it to warm it up. I know it's not needed anymore with newer cars but is it better to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T22:27:13.520" Title="Is it good to start your car up until the engine temperature gets to the middle?" Tags="|engine|warmup|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-11-18T12:50:56.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-17T23:05:42.427" Score="3" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my motorcycle up in the air about to pull the frame up off the engine but I need to remove one last thing.  I got everything taken apart except this center bolt holding the front forks on.  How do I get this bolt out or how do I get the front forks off&#xA;2012 YAMAHA R6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M73U7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M73U7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEZSn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEZSn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T16:56:23.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T16:56:23.717" Title="How to remove front forks on motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|forks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22600" CreationDate="2015-11-18T00:52:43.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a few transmissions crap out, need to be replaced. Sounds like you now have one also. I assume you are not changing it yourself so whatever shop you take it to will be able to verify this for you. Final diagnosis will have to be with mechanic who actually looks at your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T00:52:43.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22602" CreationDate="2015-11-18T01:00:03.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will require the appropriate spanner wrench to remove the primary bolt and the locking bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csLjC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csLjC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have removed the bolts you will be able to remove the top plate of the triple tree and the bottom portion will stay attached to the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T01:00:03.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22610" CreationDate="2015-11-18T04:37:50.273" Score="1" ViewCount="17946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Primera P12 2001 (2500cc) which was working without any issues. Yesterday when I try to start, it wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking to the repair guy said it was the fuel pump. But later he said it is the crank sensor at fault, which prevented the car from starting due to sending bad readings to the computer, but I still have to replace the fuel pump, as it failed too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, can a problem in crank sensor cause fuel pump failure? or is it pure coincidence? (or I'm about to pay too much money)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't know what crank sensor does)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I was told both crank position sensor AND cam sensor needs replacing.&#xA;I believe this is the model I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=232980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=232980&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2: Here's the photos of the faulty fuel pump &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPM1V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPM1V.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="2080" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T06:39:04.237" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T11:03:17.107" Title="Can a Crank sensor cause fuel pump failure?" Tags="|nissan|primera|fuel-pump|crank-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22609" CreationDate="2015-11-18T07:43:04.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand that the absence of a crank position sensor signal can prevent the engine from starting (the ECU won't allow the car to run without it). The lack of signal could also prevent the fuel pump relay from activating and priming the fuel lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm struggling to buy that a bad crank position sensor would result in physical failure of the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical fuel pumps usually fail when the brushes in the electrical motor wear out, weakening the ability of the pump to pressurize the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the mechanic wants to replace the fuel filter that has clogged up over time, and the fuel filter is part of your vehicle's fuel pump. However, most fuel pumps should allow you to replace the fuel filter without having to swap out the more expensive fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T07:43:04.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21362" CreationDate="2015-11-18T11:40:54.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am highly surprised that no one mentioned it specifically, but the answer is detonation. Poisson Fish was close, but extra wear from increased cylinder temperature isn't the main problem. The main problem is the extra heat causing petrol to self-ignite before the spark and destroy the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel doesn't suffer from this problem as it basically works on this principle - diesel ignites as soon as it enters the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is if petrol had a much higher octane rating then technically we could run it like a diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T11:40:54.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22613" CreationDate="2015-11-18T14:40:32.757" Score="4" ViewCount="2534" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Nissan Primera P12 (2500 cc) and recently I heard from my mechanic that there are 2 fuel pumps in the car. One closer to fuel tank, and another closer to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a normal configuration for a petrol engine? Why would it need 2 pumps instead of just 1 pump like most cars? and what the implications of such configuration? (maintenance, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anywhere I can look to confirm this? (website, specs, etc. or how can I confirm this by looking at the car?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T14:55:00.357" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T15:02:03.433" Title="Can there be 2 fuel pumps in a petrol car?" Tags="|nissan|primera|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22612" CreationDate="2015-11-18T15:02:03.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection&quot;&gt;GDI (Gasoline direct injection)&lt;/a&gt; then yes there will be a low pressure or lift pump and a high pressure pump. One run on 12 volt the other run by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think your vehicle is equipped with GDI but I am not sure. I am not aware of any gasoline production vehicles other than GDI that come equipped with more than one fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T15:02:03.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22626" CreationDate="2015-11-18T18:19:41.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2012 KTM Duke 125 at 10 000 miles (16k kilometers). I am the third owner of bike for 2 years. Whenever i twist the throttle fastly, motorcycle is chocked up. So i thought the problem could be in spark plug since i assume it has never changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched eBay and found there are 2 proper spark plugs that i can buy. One of them is copper and looks like secure option. Other one is Laser Iridium Spark Plug which looks like hi-tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also bought K&amp;amp;N air filter, so that  mixture should have more air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question is which one should i go? Please tell me which is safier or more performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&#xA;Emre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13259" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T13:13:34.380" Title="Replacing Spark Plug with Laser Iridium NGK Spark Plug" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition|sparkplugs|performance|ktm|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-18T19:19:05.063" Score="1" ViewCount="5918" Body="&lt;p&gt;When told the temperature was going to drop below freezing, I checked my car for antifreeze, made sure there were no liquids inside the cabin, etc. But now, when I start the car, I smell gasoline and it lasts for a few minutes after driving the car. Did I not have enough antifreeze, causing the water in my car to expand? How would that cause a possible fuel leak? &#xA;2003 kia spectra, if it's important &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T19:55:05.853" Title="Cold weather and gas smell" Tags="|fuel-system|damage|fuel-line|freezing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22616" CreationDate="2015-11-18T19:53:24.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iridium spark plugs are not going to give you more performance compared to copper types. You will notice increased performance &lt;strong&gt;only if&lt;/strong&gt; the current plugs are in bad shape to begin with. The advantage of iridium spark plug is that they last a lot longer compared to the copper ones. So you don't have to change plugs that often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is up to you to decide if you want to spend the extra money now or to change spark plugs more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note: Spark plugs in cars last a lot longer than 16k Kms. Usually about 30k Kms even for copper ones. I don't know much about bikes, but you might have a different issue with your bike not related to spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T19:53:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22617" CreationDate="2015-11-18T19:55:05.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai/Kia are known for having issues with their EVAP control systems. I owned a 2007 Hyundai Tiburon and the EVAP solenoid was malfunctioning. It made a pretty strong fuel smell because of the leak it caused. Cold weather can cause some of the rubber hose and emissions tubing to harden and crack under stress. Another thing to keep in mind is that when plastic or rubber is taken from near freezing to engine operating temperature, the material can crack or break down quickly. The process of hardening steel using temperature treatment is similar to the stresses of what happens to rubber and plastic lines when they are cooled down and heated up quickly. They will become less pliable over time and incremental movements of the car and the engine can greatly effect the lines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have &quot;Freeze Plugs&quot; on the engine and intake manifold. These prevent the expansion of frozen liquids from damaging your engine and other components. These should break loose from the engine upon expansion, but they can malfunction and not break loose when they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to do is monitor your fuel trims that the computer provides. &#xA;Kia/ Hyundai are usually generous about the information they provide via code scanners. &#xA;Your long term fuel trim on that Beta II engine should be within 10 and -10. As cars age the fuel trims can dip into an unacceptable state. Anything over or below the &quot;10&quot; mark is considered an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your EVAP or fuel system in general is malfunctioning, you'll notice that your fuel trims will try to drastically over correct for the issue. If you have a vacuum leak you will end up with a lean condition. This means that too much air is siphoned into the system, so the fuel to air is not correct. You will most times, not get a diagnostic code unless the mixture is off by A LOT. &#xA;I don't think you did anything wrong here, I think that the drastic weather changes may have assisted in something &quot;breaking&quot; on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a diagnostician or a scan tool to see if the engine is working properly. &#xA;50/50 antifreeze is usually the best to use, but if you're in an area that gets REALLY cold, you may want to go 30/70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to provide a more thorough answer, but theres only so much I can tell you over the internet without actually hooking up diagnostic equipment =( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T19:55:05.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-18T22:50:29.157" Score="2" ViewCount="12991" Body="&lt;p&gt;My moped has been running just fine lately but after I put gas in it immediately started choking off when I give it gas. The tank was pretty close to empty when I topped it off. Is that the reason that all of a sudden the moped doesn't run properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13261" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T17:40:21.077" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T14:55:13.833" Title="Moped dies when trying to give gas after filling up gas tank" Tags="|maintenance|gasoline|moped|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-18T23:09:47.150" Score="4" ViewCount="239054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car hasn't been in a crash, but the AirBag light is ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chevrolet certified dealership was unable to provide exact reason why it is ON, but they suggested to first change battery to see if it helps in the long term (which I didn't do right away). They also removed all the codes as a short term test - the light went off for few weeks, but it turned on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my 8 year old battery died yesterday, I just changed it as dealership suggested, but the light is still on. The thing is that, I don't want to go again to dealership just to reset all the codes to see if the new battery solved the AirBag issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any other way to clear codes without using expensive AirBag scanner?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in California where AutoZone told me that they are not allowed to rent or lend AirBag scanner because of the state law. Car is Chevrolet Aveo 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T19:10:28.410" Title="How to Reset AirBag codes without expensive scanner?" Tags="|chevrolet|supplemental-restraint-system|aveo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T01:56:11.167" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;My low beams on my 2007 Honda Accord are out. The high beams work, the day lights work, Just the lows don't work. I have changed both bulbs. I have checked all fuses and all relays and they are all working. How do I test the switch and how do I change it if it's bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13262" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T21:14:19.677" Title="My low beams don't work" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T03:44:45.197" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JaDZ_2jp3lQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JaDZ_2jp3lQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me identify where this drip is coming from?&#xA;It empties both the antifreeze and radiator.&#xA;Ty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13264" LastEditorUserId="13264" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T03:50:30.727" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T13:15:25.137" Title="This drip is causing my 2000 HONDA CRV to overheat" Tags="|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T05:19:27.920" Score="4" ViewCount="2294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to disable the alarm on a 2001 Audi A6 because its goes off arbitrarily, a lot. I want to disable the entire alarm. not just the internal movement sensor, How can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13266" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T05:19:27.920" Title="Disable the alarm on a 2001 Audi A6" Tags="|audi|electronics|alarm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T07:44:38.560" Score="1" ViewCount="1680" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the WSM for my car, it lists &quot;purge solenoid valve malfunction&quot; as a cause of both a low idle with excessive shaking and loss of power during acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering the exact mechanism / why / how these problems can be caused by a purge solenoid valve malfunction, and if the problem would be reflected in fuel trim numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T09:41:27.780" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T12:56:54.727" Title="How Does a Stuck Purge Solenoid Cause Problems" Tags="|rough-idle|acceleration|purge-solenoid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22616" CreationDate="2015-11-19T11:23:51.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all blaming your chocking problem fully on the spark plug is not wise there could be tons of other factors which can cause the chocking issue on your bike for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad fuel pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad fuel itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fault with the ECU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check all of the above components before coming to the conclusion of changing spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also spark plugs usually last longer than 16k Kms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;secondly the NGK iridium spark plugs have nothing to do with performance of you vehicle, they simply last longer than the copper tipped counterparts, there is no proper reason to go for the iridium ones if you only want performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would simply suggest checking out the above components and if the spark plug indeed is broken and you need to change them its up to you , the iridium last longer that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T11:23:51.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22622" CreationDate="2015-11-19T12:48:39.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can identify the relay for the low beam, you should hear it clicking when the switch is turned on/off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use also pull out the relay and use the thickest piece of wire that you can to briefly push into the connections numbered 87 and 30 where the relay was removed from.  The lights should come on while the wire is in place.  If they do not, then the problem is not the switch or relay, but the connections from the relay to the headlights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you will need to start taking things to bits to get to the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T12:48:39.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22625" CreationDate="2015-11-19T12:56:54.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air taken into the engine from the charcoal canister via the purge valve will be saturated with fuel vapors.  The engine ECU will not be expecting this, so the engine will run rich.  You would expect the fuel trim to be out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T12:56:54.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22623" CreationDate="2015-11-19T13:15:25.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it appears to be coming from above the crank shaft, I would look at the waterpump. It could be a hose or loose clamp. The likely cause the water pump. Most have a small hole that leak when the pump seals fail. Although you don't specify which engine, you may want to consider changing the timing belt also. Most Hondas drive the water pump with the timing belt. With all labor involved with doing just the pump I do the belt while it is apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T13:15:25.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22620" CreationDate="2015-11-19T13:32:24.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your carburettor might have been flooded, the fuel pump(vending machine) has a certain&#xA;pressure with which it pours in fuel to your tank, your moped being&#xA;small I am guessing not more that 4 litres of fuel capacity will be a&#xA;small tank and when you are pretty close to empty or empty the&#xA;pressure of the fuel coming in can flood your carburettor which will&#xA;choke for a mile or two after that it should resume working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically like pulling up the choke on your moped , it floods the carb. &#xA;To  avoid such situations always remember to shut off the fuel valve before filling up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have overfilled the tank and sealed it sort of&#xA;air tight,       sometimes(common on olden motorcycles &amp;amp; Mopeds)when&#xA;you fill up the tank too  much and close the lid without any sort of&#xA;gap in the tank for air , it creates a partial vacuum and the fuel&#xA;will not be able to freely flow to the carb thus casing it to choke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;solution is to open the tank and reseal it slowly allowing some air to get in or remove some fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a high chance that you might have put it adulterated or bad fuel in your moped, this will definitely clog the engine part and will cause issues to an otherwise smooth engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Udate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your friend suggested, the fuel filter could also be an issue do check it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T10:02:35.313" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T10:02:35.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21858" CreationDate="2015-11-19T14:43:46.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally this plug comes off by pulling, probably the plug is fused on to the threads due to heat, try pulling with pliers. If it does not comes out break it by tapping in it with a hammer (only the centre bit) and later  replace it with a steel nut and some washers. Preserve the plastic clamp (the outer ring )that is holding the wires, dont break it .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T14:43:46.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22622" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:01:52.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what HandyHowie has said, I' do a bit of diagnostics. Get a multimeter/voltmeter (if you don't already have one, you should be able to get a cheap one from your local useful-stuff store pretty cheaply), set it to 20v DC, and check to see if there is a voltage reaching pin 86 of the relay when the lights are switched on - this will tell you whether the switch is working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T15:01:52.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22588" CreationDate="2015-11-19T15:43:25.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Y' registrations in the UK ran from 1st March to 31st August 2001. It's quite likely that a vehicle registered in that period would have been built in 2000, as vehicles often sit for a while in storage or in the dealership before being sold - especially ones like that at the end of manufacture - they don't sell well as most people would want the replacement model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As DucatiKiller says, the VIN should tell you the actual year of manufacture, and that's the most trustworthy of the figures. The V5C usually gives the full date of first registration IIRC - what is the rest of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T15:43:25.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22734" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:02:29.337" Score="4" ViewCount="128154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey i just wanted to ask about my girlfriends car she has been having problems with for over a year.. we had it checked but they always say nothing is wrong (usually because the car starts when they turn it off and back on) , the battery is new and everything seems too work fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the problem, not every time but very very frequently.. when she gets in her car it doesn't start up. The lights and radio work perfectly fine. It isnt the battery especially since its quite new. the car makes NO noise when you turn the key.. just nothing happens. (usually she will wait a few minutes and keep trying.. eventually it turns on. except today.... she was stuck at her car for an hour and the engine didn't start) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can only think it may have to do with the key or ignition? (the spare key does the same thing though) .. Can't think of the car make and model but its year is 2002, ill update when i get out of class so i apologize for that lack of info!   Any ideas or assumptions on whats wrong and what too do.. Price tag for the fix? (money always a concern) thank you for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*2002 Buick Lesabre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13269" LastEditorUserId="13269" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T16:12:31.810" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T22:35:02.850" Title="Car will not start Sometimes?" Tags="|engine|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22636" CreationDate="2015-11-19T16:23:16.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your battery seems to be at full charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the car runs fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you dont hear the starter click (try to start)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your starter (solenoid) is failing or has a bad connection. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be &amp;lt; $600 total parts/labor if so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To troubleshoot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try jumpstarting the car when its not working (if it works, you can cross off the battery as a possible problem) Also make sure battery cables/ground have good connection and arent corroded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the lights dim in your car, (but not considerably) that probably means that your starter is getting power and the ignition works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You -or your mechanic- can supply power/ground directly the starter/solenoid to eliminate all other possibilies &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T16:23:16.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T01:23:26.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an electric oil pressure gauge that reads 10-16 volts DC input. The oil pressure sensors available produce a 0-5 volt DC output signal. If I connect a constant 10 volt wire along with the variable 0-5 volt signal output wire of the oil pressure sensor to the gauge, will that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a 12 volt system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to get a link for the gauge but couldn't get more info. The gauge was made in Australia by Autron in a limited quantity for one of Holden Motor Co. 2006 car models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autron no longer makes gauges and they don't have info on that anymore. The oil pressure sensor is from a eBay listing so all the info I have is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Gauge parameters:&#xA;0-16 VDC input&#xA;30 mA input&#xA;0-75 PSI dial&#xA;&#xA;Oil pressure transducer:&#xA;12-16 VDC input&#xA;0-5 VDC output&#xA;0-75 PSI&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Dan" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:46:44.217" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T10:35:36.580" Title="Handling voltage range mismatch between electric oil pressure gauge and pressure sensor" Tags="|oil-pressure-sensor|holden|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T17:02:37.563" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a student, I need some information about Impala 2012. any one please help me. air condition compressor type, it's automatic or manual control ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13270" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T17:02:37.563" Title="chevrolet, Impala 2012, 3.6 LS" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22636" CreationDate="2015-11-19T17:39:53.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the intermittentness of your problem and that it seems to be getting worse. Adding that there is no audible sign of anything happening, I would be looking at the ignition switch.  It should be possible to take the switch mechanism off the back of the ignition lock and clean/replace the switch.  If you do take the switch off, it morethanlikely will be possible to turn the switch with a screwdriver.  You may be able to 'wiggle' the switch to find positions it will work/won't work, to verify it is the switch at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, don't forget that the key also takes the steering lock off, so don't start the car and drive without taking the lock off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T17:39:53.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22642" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:51:43.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T19:51:43.390" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T19:51:43.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22643" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:51:43.390" Score="0" Body="British manufacturer of performance cars.  Owned by Tata Motors since 2008." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T21:26:44.777" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T21:26:44.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:53:53.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it could possibly be an Evaporative Emissions problem involving your fuel tank. The engineering side of fuel systems refer to the amount of air in a fuel tank as &quot;Head Pressure&quot;. Since fluids are almost impossible to compress, as you gain more air (and use fuel) in the tank it's contents are more easily compressed. The vehicle's computer can see the fuel pressure or EVAP solenoids to see if they are falling within specification. Many times when you have a condition where the tank is empty and problems begin, it is due to either a EVAP problem or vacuum related issue. If you keep your tank filled up, you can actually run the engine on a faulty fuel pump for quite some time. The &quot;Head Pressure&quot; of the tank combined with the gasoline's weight will actually assist the pump in pushing it up to your fuel rail when its full. THAT being said, you could additionally have a faulty fuel delivery system and your ECU could be shoving it into limp mode to avoid damage to transmission or engine. Once you fill your tank back up you're essentially making the ECU think the problem is fixed. If it is a vacuum driven transmission, an EVAP leak or vacuum leak from the tank could also cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is foreign deposit in the fuel tank. This can temporarily or permanently clog your fuel pump. Once the fluid reaches a low part of the tank, it can cause a concentration of sediment to pool around where the fuel gets pulled into the pump. You would need to do a full diagnostic analysis of the system to ensure it's one of the above problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets not forget that Chrysler's computer systems aren't the best to begin with lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T19:53:53.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T19:54:06.423" Score="4" ViewCount="91861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2002 Honda Civic and today on my way to work the battery light came on. I drove my car to auto zone and they told me my battery is no good anymore. However, I was planning on driving home tomorrow from school (it's a 4 hour drive) and he told me that I might make it I might not. I called a friend and he told me that as long as the car turns on and I don't make stops I will definitely make it all the way to Chicago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I still drive my car? I need to make it home for Thanksgiving and there are no train tickets left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T23:32:39.663" Title="My battery light came on, can I still drive?" Tags="|honda|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22645" CreationDate="2015-11-19T20:16:36.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say if you can make the trip without narrowing down the reason for the battery light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery light turning on is usually an indication that the battery is not getting charged properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common reasons for this include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alternator not properly charging&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage regulator on the alternator might malfunction and cause issues related to undercharging or overcharging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If undercharging or not charging at all, your car will not run for long because a lot of systems need electricity to keep the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If overcharging, this &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; let you run your 4-hour journey but it won't make your battery happy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Battery gone bad&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be easy to test the battery or have it tested and replace if need be from your local AutoZone-esque shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else is well, replacing the bad battery should restore normal service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Corrosion of the battery terminals&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the battery terminals for signs of excessive corrosion that may be robbing the battery of benefitting from the charging alternator. A multimeter will be handy to confirm if there is big voltage drop across the terminals¹.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF this is the case, you may or may not be able to make the journey depending on how severely corroded the terminals are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A physical break or short in the battery-charging wire&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case your car will not charge the battery properly and the car will stop running after some time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really, whether you can make it or not depends on what kind of failure caused the light to turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;All in all, I wouldn't chance it for a 4-hour journey; have the problem addressed beforehand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - take due precautions when testing batteries as they can pose serious electrical and chemical hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T20:46:46.300" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T20:46:46.300" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22621" CreationDate="2015-11-19T20:32:42.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons your airbag lights can come on. With GM vehicles, it's generally due to the SRS (Safety Restraint System) circuit having a fault. When the ECM is powered on the SRS system and your ECM communicate with eachother. As a safety measure the computer will throw a code to alert you to a fault in the system. Generally if you don't have an advanced or OEM scan tool you can disconnect all power to the vehicle for around 30 minutes. This should wipe the code. IF it does however reappear, this means that is a problem that needs to be fixed and it wasn't a one time issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the dealership can't figure it out tells me that you need to take it somewhere else and have it looked at, or you need to contact GM directly and tell them about this. I worked for Honda, GM and Toyota and when the airbag issues started popping up, people were getting killed because of randomly deploying airbags. I never had problems pulling airbag codes or diagnosing airbag issues in those vehicles. If I did, it was a computer/ electrical issue and the SRS system was replaced. I would highly suggest taking it to a skilled diagnostician or a different dealer if they can help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T20:32:42.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22596" CreationDate="2015-11-19T20:44:37.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the trunk. The reason they say not to use it is for your safety so you don't shock yourself. If you're capable of hooking up jumper cables and have decent access to the battery it's perfectly acceptable. Many Mazdas, Chryslers, BMW, and Mercedes all say to use the engine bay because the batteries are under the seats or in the trunk; It's just so you don't hurt yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Underneath the hood of your Volvo there will be a red cap with a bolt near the fuse box. This is your red or live wire. Generally when jumping a car, you want to have the black or Negative end connected to the engine to supply direct ground to your starter. This should work for your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T20:44:37.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-19T20:55:09.310" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into Toyota Mirai and Huyndai Tuscon Fuel Cell cars and thought to myself wouldn't it be great if I can charge a car when there is not enough juice to make it to the nearest hydrogen station. Is it possible for fuel cell cars to have a charge socket for battery charging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13286" OwnerDisplayName="dmitrymar" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T12:29:28.060" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:29:28.060" Title="charge socket on a Fuel Cell car" Tags="|charging|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22649" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:07:06.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting concept but I believe they generate electricity as-needed from the fuel cell and there is not much storage in a battery system. Just enough to start the reaction and maintain current to the traction motor. The fuel is in the hydrogen not a large battery. You would have to add a battery pack to the vehicle and at that point you might as well have an EV.Happy Day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ArchonOSX" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T21:07:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22622" CreationDate="2015-11-19T21:14:19.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a Honda guy, but here's the generic info (I've done this on Mitsubishi before, same symptoms, and it was indeed a bad stalk switch):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the stalk multi-switch, you'll probably need to remove it so you can get access to the pins on it.  On most cars this means pulling the steering wheel and airbag to get at it.  This is a case where you need the OEM manual and you cannot deviate from them at all.  Airbags can kill you right quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T21:14:19.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22408" CreationDate="2015-11-19T22:32:52.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;tl;dr - It's a rule of thumb that uses gas speed to size valves&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/Back_to_basics.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This gem of a document&lt;/a&gt; does a decent job of explaining the Lovell factor and its significance. It is my source for most of the information presented in this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's in a &lt;em&gt;Lovell&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Lovell factor&lt;/em&gt; refers to the &lt;em&gt;average (mean) speed of the air-fuel mixture at the intake valves&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brian Lovell realized/popularized the fact that &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;naturally-aspirated&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;gasoline&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; engines almost universally churn out peak power around 70-80 m/s mean inlet gas velocity; which makes the Lovell factor a very useful, quick-'n-dirty tool for sizing the intake valves regardless of engine size, bore, stroke, RPM or peak power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was, as I understand it, the late Brian Lovell of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weslake&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weslake&lt;/a&gt; who conceived Mean Gas Velocity with respect to intake valves...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should point out that Brian Lovell proposed Mean Gas Velocity as a means of comparing engines for which precious little data was available in a design era populated with slide rules and not computers; more complex calculations were definitely not on the menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The same concept applies to exhaust valves&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target is roughly 300 m/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, if one extends Mean Gas Velocity thinking to the exhaust valves of an engine, where the speed of sound in the elevated temperatures of exhaust gas is some 600 m/s, there the Mach number criterion of 0.5 translates to (if computed at maximum piston speed) a Mean Gas Velocity of 300 m/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, it seems feasible to extend the Mean Gas Velocity concept to the exhaust valves as well; this is important as the relative sizing of the exhaust and intake valves is a critical design factor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why 70-80 m/s for intake and 300 m/s for exhaust?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reasons that are semi-explained in the document, it's all about trying to achieve Mach 0.5, because that's where the engine &amp;quot;breathes&amp;quot; best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ‘perfect’ design is considered to have a maximum particle velocity in the exhaust and intake ducts where the Mach number is 0.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mach = Gas Velocity / Speed of Sound in that gas&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the speed of sound will change depending on gas pressure, temperature and composition, the ideal speed will vary between the inlet and exhaust valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mach value will also vary with engine load since the valve diameter is fixed, so it is up to the engine designer to strike a suitable compromise between low-end and high-end performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side, this also explains why exhaust valves are (usually) smaller than intake valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How is it calculated?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compute the mean piston speed (Cp) at the RPM of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Cp  = 2 * STROKE * RPM / 60 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compute the area ratio (Kiv) of the intake valve opening to the cylinder bore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Kiv = INTAKE VALVE AREA / CYLINDER AREA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compute Lovell factor (KL):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  KL  = Cp / Kiv&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Caveat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This metric will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt;, by itself, help you design other parts of the engine. I'll let the quote speak for itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regret to say that, while this is a design criterion for the dimensions of an intake valve and is doubtless helpful in that regard, further assistance is not forthcoming for the rest of an engine design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What are some possible use-cases for the Lovell factor?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following spring to mind (most will involve resizing valve diameter(s)):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Redesigning an engine for a different power level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Altering the trade-off between low-end vs high-end performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assessing the impact of a stroker kit on cylinder head re-design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deciding on the number of valves during engine design phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manifold resizing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust redesign to benefit from scavenging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Redesign naturally-aspirated cylinder-head for forced-induction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T18:50:26.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43309" CreationDate="2015-11-20T04:15:41.683" Score="6" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a banging sounds coming from the front of my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually they appear after 5-10 meters when I'm driving. It's like one small knock and then around 5-6 more knocks and then they stop until the end of the journey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They started to appear when the engine is cold, but now I hear them more often when I'm just starting the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've took the car to the mechanic and he says he didn't found any vibration or strange thing with my engine. He advised to change the tyres but it actually didn't helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it possible be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car:&#xA;Nissan Tiida, 2006, Automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13276" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T04:16:21.150" Title="Banging sounds coming in front of my car" Tags="|engine|transmission|automatic-transmission|nissan|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T07:14:32.257" Score="3" ViewCount="117294" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware that dexron VI automatic transmission fluid CANNOT be mixed with ANY other transmission fluid? I have heard that this fluid when mixed with another fluid will eventually, over a short period of time, ruin your transmission because of the reaction of the different additives in the two different fluids. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13279" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T22:42:53.507" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T18:23:24.887" Title="Will mixing Dexron VI with another transmission fluid damage the transmission?" Tags="|dexron-vi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T07:22:36.540" Score="1" ViewCount="1992" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are 6L90 transmissions interchangable between the different types of vehicles that GM puts them in? Example: Camaro and Silverado 2500HD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13279" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T13:44:23.370" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T05:29:58.773" Title="Chevrolet 6L90 transmission interchange" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15806" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:04:53.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally when you have a condition that presents itself like this i.e. &quot;Runs fine when accelerator is depressed&quot; and or &quot;Dies at stop lights, but functions normally at all other times&quot;. It's a bit difficult to diagnose. From personal experience and many years working as a master-tech for Honda/ Acura, the throttle position sensor and upstream o2 sensors are the common cause for a stalling condition. You need a good scan tool and some good diagnostic equipment to properly weed out the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a basic scan tool that you would obtain from an auto parts store, you can look at o2 voltages and fuel trims. Your fuel trims and o2 data will send you in the right direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When diagnosing the vehicle you need to eliminate one by one, the major components that allow a combustion engine to function. &quot;Fuel, Air, spark, timing and compression&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fuel pressure is low for some reason the car won't run right. If you have a vacuum leak, it will not operate. There are several sensors and solenoids on that vehicle that control idle engine RPM and deceleration of the RPM. If they aren't sending proper information to the ECU, the car will not run right.&#xA;Diagnosing this over the internet is almost impossible without constant feedback from you. I would not suggest tightening the head bolts or fiddling with your valves if you're not VERY familiar with Honda/ Acura procedure. The J series, K series and B series engines are complicated unless you're practiced at working with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how an alternator can cause this?....&#xA;Once an alternator goes bad, your car relies solely on the battery. Once the car uses up the juice in the battery, the car will not start, run or do anything for that matter. Hard starting and stalling are not first symptoms of a bad alternator. You can goto a local parts store and they will test your charging system and battery for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:04:53.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22542" CreationDate="2015-11-20T12:30:30.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it was diagnosed by a specialist that there is a hardware / software problem with the ECU (Magneti Marelli) that is causing all this problems, and needs to be changed. There is nothing wrong with the sensors, coil pack or mechanical parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13210" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T12:30:30.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T14:27:43.373" Score="5" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;(mid-90's Buick) Someone I know had an ECM injector drive output go bad.  He got a replacement ECM online, but had to take it to a shop (not a dealer) to get it 'initialized' (If that's the right word.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He says that, to do this, the tech had the ignition switch in the 'run' position, and during the entire 20-minute process, the starter motor ran.  I have no reason to doubt his report, but I find it kind of astonishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why would they run the starter like that?  All I can think is maybe to 'characterize' the engine.  But, it doesn't seem like they'd have to do that for 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T01:05:45.727" Title="ECM replacement - starter runs during reprogramming?" Tags="|engine|buick|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22562" CreationDate="2015-11-20T14:46:48.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any engine, no matter petrol or diesel during the RUN IN period it should be driven gently and not aggressively for the first 100 or 150 miles after that it should be a combination of aggressive and passive driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first 100 or 200 miles of an engine is delicate since the components will not be used to the levels of stress and being aggressive in this phase regardless of being a petrol or diesel engine is not advisable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After this interval you need to run the engine mostly at its peak torque range and sometimes fluctuating over and below the peak torque rpm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, its the combination of both, drive gently for the first 100 or 150 miles , after that apply various loads and fluctuate RPMs to get the engine broke in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T14:46:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21995" CreationDate="2015-11-20T20:37:00.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my car back from the dealer, and it turns out the noise I was hearing in the steering column was coming from the cable reel rubbing against the cable reel bracket. Honda is aware of the problem and has a redesigned bracket that addresses the issue. The redesigned bracket gives the cable reel a bit more room to rotate in without it rubbing against the bracket. Eventually, the cable reel would probably jam against the bracket causing the ribbon cable to snap, which would disable all steering wheel electronics including the air bag and horn.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm glad I had it looked at. The steering column is now completely silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T20:37:00.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8996" CreationDate="2015-11-20T20:53:11.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to both the Chilton workshop manual and the Clymer workshop manual for Norton 750 and 850 twins, remove the chain from the motorcycle. (I temporarily connect a spare chain to the rear chain to make reinstalling the chain easier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay the chain on a flat surface and compress all the links together. Measure the length of the chain and write that measurement down. Now stretch the chain, re-measure it, and write that measurement down. Chilton: &quot;The maximum acceptable extent of chain wear is about 1/4&quot; per foot. If the chain stretches more than this amount, the hardened surfaces on the bearings will have worn through and the chain should be replaced. If the chain has reached this point, removing a link is not the proper remedy.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13285" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T22:08:44.127" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T22:08:44.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T23:39:59.790" Score="6" ViewCount="39347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car brand-new a few years ago, with only 50 miles on it when it came off the lot. It's perfectly stock - no modifications made, though some parts have been replaced for repair purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I have a long commute, I blew past the mileage cap for the manufacturer's bumper-to-bumper warranty long before I hit the time limit. Even so, I'm now just a bit outside of what would have been the time limit on that warranty coverage anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with just over 74,000 miles on the car, I'm being told my alternator is making noise and may fail soon. It hasn't been giving me problems in terms of power delivery yet, but the diagnosis does explain some other minor symptoms I've noticed. This was discovered while I had it in the shop for some unrelated issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real kicker though, is that this is already my &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; alternator. The first failed somewhere around 40,000 miles (outside of warranty due to mileage alone, at the time). That time, it did reach the point of having substantially reduced performance before I realized there was a problem and replaced it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So now, on a car bought brand-new, I've had two alternators either fail or show indications of imminent failure within around 40,000 miles or less.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the vehicles I've owned before this one were bought with at least 90,000 miles on the odometer. For each of those cars, I put at least 100,000 of my own miles on them and only (if ever) had to replace their alternators once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first alternator on my current car obviously came straight from the manufacturer. (Again, car was bought brand-new.) The second may have been re-manfactured (I don't recall off the top of my head - will be contacting the shop that did the work when they're open again). Regardless, it seems unusual to me that both should fail so early and both around the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 Dodge Avenger SXT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.4 L GEMA I4 DOHC 16V Dual VVT 6-speed automatic, FWD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T06:08:03.030" Title="Causes of Premature Alternator Failure" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T01:45:20.527" Score="4" ViewCount="4783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok once in a while when I turn on my 2002 Ford F-150 the RPM's go from 1000 to 800 then back to 1000 over and over and this is at idle. I haven't gone to get it looked at and I want to see if it's something I can fix at home. &#xA;Anyone have any suggestions on what it can be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T01:57:27.617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T00:54:28.430" Title="2002 Ford F-150 idle problem" Tags="|ford|idle|f-150|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22672" CreationDate="2015-11-21T04:09:03.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will keep my answers fairly simple, as the procedure will differ, and I'm unfamiliar with your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the &lt;strong&gt;MAF sensor&lt;/strong&gt;. It is a very thin metal filament inside a circular component attached to the throttle body. It's purpose is to measure the volume of the incoming air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the &lt;strong&gt;throttle body&lt;/strong&gt;. All the incoming air passes through the TB. While the air filter removes a large portion of material, some may get through and collect on the throttle body inlet which is a very small-holed screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the &lt;strong&gt;idle air-control valve&lt;/strong&gt;(IAC). The IAC controls the amount of air passed through to the engine base on information from the MAF and what is allowed through the TB. They're all intertwined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally, I will be doing all three personally, as my will car will not start until I give it gas. The battery powers the components, and the starter is initialized, but I have to get it some acceleration, so if anyone has a similar issue, try the methods mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*some one let me know if I'm correct, I'm just answering to help cement what I know (or don't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11177" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T04:09:03.600" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4383" CreationDate="2015-11-21T10:53:28.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting answers! A bit off topic but the newer type of speed bump which is a square cusion has another option! Assuming your vehicle is not wide enough to clear the cusion you can approach with one wheel centered to the cusion but at the last second swerve towards the centered wheel slightly so as to unweight that wheel which then just rides over the cusion without the full weight of the vehicle. It works well with practice and can be improved even more by a slight counter swerve just before the main swerve to rock the weight from side to side more. This work well at high speed.&#xA;On straight speed bumps depending on the level of rebound damping on your suspension a slight brake dab to compress the front suspension and then release the brakes just before the bump allows the front end to start rising just prior to the bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13291" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T10:53:28.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2015-11-21T12:00:08.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise from an alternator can be early symptoms of it going bad. It's generally the bearing inside the alternator. You have a couple. With most modern vehicles the alternator bearings are located on the outside shaft and one for the rotor inside the alternator. When the shaft bearing starts to breakdown you'll notice a squealing noise or screeching when the car is running. This usually won't cause the alternator to malfunction UNTIL the bearing destroys itself. When I've seen intermittent performance on alternators, its usually the bearing(s) that lie between the rotor and stator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, you really shouldn't be going through that many that quickly. If an alternator is not installed correctly it can cause the bearings to go bad. This is because the serpentine belt that drives it could possibly be putting EXTRA stress on the pulley in directions is shouldn't be, thus causing the shaft bearing to prematurely expire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quality of the parts you install are also a HUGE factor when talking about an issue like this. You should look up reviews and quality assurance on the alternators you're buying. They could just be generally poorly manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil, fuel and debris are another thing to consider. If there is a spot that is leaking or spraying small amounts of oil or sediment into the rotor and stator, this can DEFINITELY cause premature failure. It's not always visually obvious, so keep that in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want you can take this to an automotive electrical shop and they can rebuild it. You can usually gather a wealth of knowledge from them if you just ask the right questions and make friendly conversation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS keep in mind that a 2nd opinion is important as well. &#xA;I practice heavily in &quot;Last Case Diagnostics&quot;. When a shop or person is having an issue that a shop can't figure out, or if the individual is concerned that their shop isn't doing something right; I find scientific reasoning and repair the issue. You might be able to find a shop near you that can do this for you. It's a dying breed of technician, but you might be able to find someone near you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T12:06:02.577" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T12:06:02.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3817" CreationDate="2015-11-21T12:04:27.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubbing alcohol or vodka work well.  The alcohol evaporates but not before helping resolve the residue so you have no secondary residue from&#xA;The cleaning agent which you would be left with if you used a lot of degreasers or strippers, GooGone or Aircraft remover leave an oily residue.  Aircraft remover will strip everything, down to the bare metal, powder coat, urethane, oem paint which is usually urethane, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighter fluid will work but only if you have a particular type of lighter fluid which contains naphtha, a solvent ingredient which is no longer used in many types of lighter fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T12:04:27.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22657" CreationDate="2015-11-21T12:34:57.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory this can cause issues. Let me explain why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dexron standards were created by GM. They lost the &quot;Patent&quot; to Dexron-VI in 2006. Now anyone can create their own &quot;Blend&quot; of Dexron-VI. Just like motor oil, you have different chemicals and blends of synthetic oils with different detergents in them; Transmission fluid can presumably be treated the same way.&#xA;Dexron-VI has a much lower viscosity right out of the bottle than other ATF or Dexron ATF's. When working with an automatic transmission, you have solenoids that actuate the shifting of gears. If the viscosity of the fluid you use is too great, or too low it will cause the transmission to fail because the hydraulic properties and lubricity change. If you mix an oil with another oil and emulsion occurs between the two oil's detergents it can create something of a secondary chemical reaction; You could definitely have an issue if this occured. When you take two chemicals and mix them inside of any moving component with heat, you will have a &quot;science experiment&quot; going on inside your Engine/ Transmission. The additives on Dexron-VI are probably specific to GM transmissions and hence why if you mix it with other fluids, they don't get along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a side note, Honda/ Acura and Toyota are very much like this. Their specific automatic transmission fluids are designed to work for the transmissions that the engineers built it for. If you put off brand or &quot;General&quot; ATF in the transmissions, they will fail immediately or quite quickly because their properties don't fall within the engineered specification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T13:02:18.640" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T13:02:18.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22680" CreationDate="2015-11-21T14:36:00.513" Score="3" ViewCount="4469" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that bugs me about my car is that the fuel pump noise is fairly inconsistent. Turning on the lights, aircon, defroster, etc. lowers the fuel pump speed and gives a lower pitched noise. It also dips for a second when the RPM gets too low, sometimes when accelerator is released and clutch is pushed in, sometimes apparently for no reason at all. I had times when engine RPM would be critically low immediately after starting until the fuel pump gets to full speed (it works slower for the first few seconds on these cars for some reason) and this inconsistency might be the cause of some intermittent idle problems I have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal behavior? I do understand that the alternator is being spun by the engine, but it should have a voltage regulator and even if generated voltage dropped, as I understand the battery should maintain system voltage above 12V (battery works great, by the way). Shouldn't constant voltage always be provided to the fuel pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1999 Volvo V40 T4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T07:59:45.860" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T13:33:37.197" Title="Should fuel pump noise be changing according to electrical load and RPM?" Tags="|engine|battery|alternator|rpm|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22679" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:17:11.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds very much like your alternator is not delivering a constant voltage.  It should be able to cope with a change in demand.  Check the voltage at the battery with different loads turned on, the alternator should be able to keep a voltage of around 14v&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could have a slightly bad connection from the battery to the fuse box, or the battery to ground.  A change in load would cause a voltage drop across the bad connection, which would then cause a lower voltage to your pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chech the voltage at the battery under different loads, then do the same test at the fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T15:17:11.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T15:59:30.923" Score="2" ViewCount="2142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you buy a 2015 Toyota RAV4 service manual? The dealer has promised me one and it's been almost a month and no service manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13292" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T16:01:56.797" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T15:14:03.547" Title="2015 Toyota RAV4 service manual" Tags="|toyota|rav4|service-manual|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2015-11-21T16:08:02.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy earlier ones from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/page/842533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Best Brands Repair Manuals&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_select_oem.asp?Style=helm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helm Inc&lt;/a&gt;, but not yet for the 2015. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised the dealership has told you they'd give you the service manuals. Are you sure they aren't offering you the &lt;em&gt;owner's manual&lt;/em&gt;? They don't usually hand out service manuals. Also, a lot of the newer service manuals for dealerships actually come via electronic means (online or CD), so won't be available that way either. I don't know if Toyota does it this way or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T16:08:02.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21656" CreationDate="2015-11-21T16:24:28.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The leak was in a fuel line leading to the injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12586" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T16:24:28.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19592" CreationDate="2015-11-21T16:26:15.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following information from a good source (done &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; swaps himself):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He believes the '68 Mustang came stock with the 302, so the front suspension should be just fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When he did swaps before on the earlier Mustangs, they would drop the v8 in and never think twice about changing the front end stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get heavier duty suspension/steering parts out of vehicles of the same year, such as the Fairlane ... parts will bolt right up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He thought the '68 should have come with the 9&quot; rear, it'll just be non-posi ... if yours has a 5-lug rear, I would bet you can count on it being a 9&quot; (IMHO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The motor mounts for the v8 on the '68 are one piece. Both sides should be interchangeable. You can pick them up for about $20-ish apiece from the parts store. You have to take the I6 &quot;cradle&quot; out, then the v8 ones will fit down in place of them. These should have a standard bolt pattern for your '86 302 engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The AOD transmission is about 5&quot; longer than the C3/4 or 3-spd manual. You'll need to either fabricate a new mount for it, or you can buy one online. The drive line will need to either be shortened or different one purchased or acquired&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He says he the 302 would be less than 60lbs difference between it and the 200 I6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T16:26:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T18:14:41.387" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving Camry 2001 4 cylinder, automatic gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently I noticed that after reaching my destination, when I put gear to P, I find the RPM meter increase to reach slightly lower than 2, which is not normal... Usually, it should at 1 or even less, even when I try to switch off the A/C or cassette, it's still up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not doing routine maintenance to my car, could this mean that I need to change gear oil??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13294" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T21:16:08.287" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T21:16:08.287" Title="Increase of RPM meter after reaching my destination" Tags="|toyota|camry|rpm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-13T06:01:23.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22738" CreationDate="2015-11-21T18:46:15.877" Score="11" ViewCount="25809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I logged some test data to try and help me figure out why my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L ATX has a rough idle and is suffering from hesitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yS8iJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yS8iJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Speed k/h),(TPS_v),(MAF g/sec),(RPM),(SparkAdvance),(EngineLoad),(ST_FuelTrim)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things standing out to me, regarding spark timing, engine load and fuel trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, this car has a single ECU controlled ignition coil. Every time I press on the gas ( TPS_v is green ) the ECU retards the spark ( yellow line ), even taking it as late as -10 degrees TDC, i.e. 10 degrees &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; TDC.  Basically, the ECU is retarding my timing by about 20 degrees if I do more than barely tap the gas, before recovering to more reasonable levels after a second or two. In addition, the WSM says spark advance should be between 6 to 18 degrees BTDC at idle.  What I'm seeing is that at idle my spark advance seems to be bouncing around a lot, and even going negative sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks and they're dead on, and I've also check both the cam and crank position sensors and they're both within spec.  My &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22570/sticking-while-rotating-crankshaft-by-hand&quot;&gt;cam to lifter clearances are also all in spec&lt;/a&gt;, although there are three that seem to be wearing much faster than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two things that seem strange to me are that the engine load at idle is around 17.5 - 20%, and that just revving the engine in park shoots it up to about 75%, which is the same amount it shoots up when trying to get going in drive.  Additionally, every time I do more than just tap the gas my short term fuel trim shoots up to about 14%.  I'm guessing both of these thing are likely connected somehow to the spark retardation I'm seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure this spark retardation is the source of my rough idle and hesitation.  The million dollar question is why the heck is the ECU doing this to my spark timing?  The only reason I could think of for it to do this would be overheating and pinging / detonation, but I'm pretty sure I don't have either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the problem is with the knock sensor.  So what's the nature of that problem?  It would seem to me that since the spark timing is being retarded, that the knock sensor must either be giving false positives, OR something else could be generating a noise that &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; like a ping, but really isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the ping sensor generates a/c voltage in response to &quot;hearing* a ping,  shouldn't I be able to diagnose it by just disconnecting it?  As in, if the ECU doesn't get any voltage from the knock sensor, it will just use regular timing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I disconnected the knock sensor and the problem stay similar, although seemed a bit milder.   However, when testing resistance between the knock sensor connector and ground I got nothing, basically no continuity, when I'm supposed to see 560 Ohms.  So I'm guessing when the ECU gets no signal from the knock sensor it goes into some kind of spark advance limp mode.  I'll probably see if I can find a sensor from a junk yard and stick it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went ahead and looked at the O2 sensor like Zaid and Fred wanted and it looks like there is probably a failure there as well.  &lt;em&gt;One thing to note, is that I'm only getting about 15 data samples per second, or one every 75 milliseconds.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the O2 stays pegged to zero volts at idle, yet both LTFT and STFT are also zero.  Strange, if the sensor is reading &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; lean, then the STFT should be way up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I figured I'd see what happens if I rev the engine for a while to see what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6y9ov.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6y9ov.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(RPMs),(O2S11_v),(STFT)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I rev the engine at 2300 rpm, the O2 voltage starts slowly climbing, but still with no oscillation!  Then, after a few minutes, boom, the engine bucks and I see my STFT spike from zero to 54%.  And up flashes a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuCYJufwGAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P1131 DTC&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Code: P1131 - Lack of HO2S11 Switch Sensor Indicates Lean&#xA;&#xA;Status: &#xA; - Pending - malfunction is expected to be confirmed &#xA;&#xA;Module: On Board Diagnostic II&#xA;Diagnostic Trouble Code details&#xA;HO2S11 not switching correctly. Sensor indicates lean.&#xA;Air leaks at the exhaust manifold&#xA;&#xA;This DTC may be caused by :&#xA;&#xA;Low fuel pressure.&#xA;Manifold vacuum leak.&#xA;HO2SHTR11 Heater Circuit Malfunction&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hayens manual says the O2 sensor has to reach 600F degrees before it starts giving a signal.  So I figured I'd do another test.  I had previously measured the exhaust ports which were all around 300F give or take 50.  So I ran the engine at 4k rpm for about nine minutes and then ran out real quick to measure the exhaust temp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLSvf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLSvf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Closed_Loop),(ECT),(LTFT),(FuelPW),(RPMs),(O2S11_V),(STFT)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the exhaust temp got up to 750F, and I figure the increasing voltage is related to that, as the voltage starts dropping as the exhaust starts cooling.  But more important is the first PID in that image - Closed_Loop, which never goes from OFF to ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just to be sure it wasn't a wiring or ecu problem so I decided to test the lambda sensor directly with a multimeter.  I tested the resistance on the heater element wires and it's exactly at spec at 6 Ohms.  I then ran the engine for a few minutes at 4k rpm to heat up the sensor and tested the voltage and it didn't switch at all, just stayed pegged around 0.01 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I  noticed is that the engine ran exactly the same with the lambda unplugged as with it plugged in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT5 - The Lambda was defective&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the O2 sensor was bad, and now my ignition timing is much better.  It still seems a bit unstable at idle, but it seems to track RPM much better now and is pretty much constant at higher RPM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEQwj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEQwj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T02:14:35.870" Title="My Ignition Timing is Retarded, no seriously, it's really screwed up" Tags="|ignition|rough-idle|hesitation|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2015-11-21T20:06:14.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you ever figured out what the problem was, but I will tell you my story. I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 2wd. I had a pulsating brake problem in my front disk brakes for 10 years until I finally figured out the problem. I bought the truck new and the problem started within the first 5K - 10K miles. In trying to fix the pulsation &amp;amp; wheel wobble, I replaced the disks 3 times each time with new bearings, seals, and pads. I bleed all 4 brakes multiple times. I checked the parking brake, rear brake, and the ABS. The ABS can be disconnected to simply check if this is the problem. I checked the lug torque, and properly bedded the pads on 2 different pad types (ceramic and semi-metallic). I also checked the front suspension and steering. NONE of this fixed the problem. And no matter how many times I was told the rotors were WARPED, or I was doing something wrong by some expert, nothing fixed the problem including replacing the rotors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to fix the issue again in 2011, I replaced only the brake pads with semi-metallic's as all the previous pads I tried were ceramic (I was still on my second new set of rotors). I decided to grease the caliper slide pins with caliper lube. The pins were well greased and slid nicely when I was done. SO, fast forward to a couple of days and the problem came back. I didn't think anything of it until I decided to replace the rotors and pads again for the third time a year later. After replacing the pads and rotor on the passenger side, I was just about done with the driver's side when by chance, I happened to check the caliper slide pins before installing the brake pads. I figured I did not need to bother with them as I had just greased them a year prior. To my surprise, the upper pin would NOT MOVE... The lower pin slid out no problem, but the upper took quite a bit of force to remove. (I think I used some pliers). In looking at the two pins, the only discernible difference was the rubber collar (or boot) that sat in a wide groove in the upper pin. I then looked at the pad and noticed that the pad was worn uneven.... It all started to come together! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual, a special lube was used on the caliper slide pins. They recommend not to remove it as there was no replacement for the grease at the time, but I think it's just a good silicone based grease. Regardless, I tried using silicone grease, and even making a new rubber collar to put in. I finally decided to just remove the STUPID RUBBER COLLAR! I was going to go down to the local Autozone and pick up a new set of slide pins and use the same solid pin without the groove for both the upper and lower. But I realized this was not necessary. The groove in the pin is well within the slide housing. The shear plane of the pin is at the largest diameter for both pins. Removing the boot will have no effect on strength or safety. In fact, I believe the boot is simply for noise and vibration abatement (isn't that ironic). BTW, for those who are going to say removing the boot is unsafe, please tell me how. I happen to be a Mechanical Engineer, so feel free to get technical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I realized, my vehicle probably had very little lube from the factory, or moisture intruded into the caliper slide pin housing and caused the rubber collar to swell (or both). When you first drive the vehicle, everything is cold, but as soon as heat is pumped through the brakes, everything expands making the problem worse. The swelling causes the pin to seize on that side of the caliper causing the pad to apply uneven pressure, which in turn causes the pulsation. When I finally decided to apply some caliper slide grease the first time, this made the problem even worse as the as the rubber collar requires a grease that will not cause it to swell. It wasn't until my last go around with the pads and rotors that I discovered this and removed the rubber collar from the slide pins, one on each side. I have had not an issue since then in three years. I love driving my truck without pulsating brakes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you if this is the problem on your vehicle because you may not have the rubber collar. If not, then the best this will do is make you check the slide pins. But if you do have the rubber collar, I highly recommend you check this as it is very simple and inexpensive to fix. And you can check it by removing the rubber collar and trying for no cost. It just so happens that I also have an Infiniti I35. In replacing my brake pads last time around, I decided to grease the caliper slide pins on it. One of the pins on each side also had this damn rubber collar! Although I never had an issue with the brakes on the Infiniti, I canned the collar anyway. Have never had a problem with the I35 either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13295" LastEditorUserId="13295" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T20:18:02.900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T20:18:02.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22702" CreationDate="2015-11-21T21:08:36.640" Score="6" ViewCount="2915" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a car from a BMW dealer and the guy told me it was sitting for almost 6 months before I came to purchase it. When I left the dealership the oil was above the min mark showing green. Drove the car for 250 miles and the oil was at the min marker. When I started the engine this morning the oil level was yellow. I have added 1L of oil right away and it was still yellow then I added another one. Right now it is almost at max and I drove it for about 20 miles without any loss in level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be from the car being parked for this much or I should expect a low level tomorrow when I start it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine is a 3000cc diesel/2013 X6 M50d&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13297" LastEditorUserId="13297" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T21:17:33.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:03:31.760" Title="Car stored for 6 months shows low oil level after 300 miles" Tags="|oil|bmw|oil-change|oil-leak|idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22688" CreationDate="2015-11-21T21:25:01.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil level is not going to decrease due to it sitting for six months unless a seal went bad. It would appear to me you have an oil leak somewhere. This doesn't mean you are going to have low oil tomorrow morning, but it does indicate you need to keep an eye on the oil situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is to check the ground where you normally park your vehicle and see if you can spot any leakage (spots) on the ground. If you don't, put a large piece of clean card board (corrugated) under the vehicle over night under the engine. You'll want it to totally cover the area where the engine would be at. In the morning pull it out from under the vehicle and see if there are any spots and notice if you can tell what part of the engine the drops are coming from. This might indicate where the oil is coming from. Then you can check that part of the engine to see if you can pinpoint where the leak is occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T21:25:01.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:02:26.437" Score="3" ViewCount="2953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Toyota RAV4 (FWD, automatic transmission). The speedometer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, seemingly journey by journey - one time, it stuck at 0 at the start of a journey then began working perfectly after about 5 minutes on the road, but other times it either works from start to finish of a journey, or doesn't work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/310/intermittently-fluctuating-non-functioning-speedometer-in-volvo-940-possible-ca&quot;&gt;Intermittently fluctuating/non-functioning speedometer in Volvo 940. Possible causes?&lt;/a&gt;, but I've never had the needle &quot;wobble around&quot;, and my problem seems to be per journey rather than speed related (and obviously it's a different vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A garage has checked it over, fixed some rusty wiring, sorted out some other electrical issues with the headlights and changed some fuses, and after this it works more often than it did, but it still often fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in what could cause this kind of &quot;one day it works, one day it doesn't&quot; behaviour, seemingly not affecting anything but the speedometer needle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it could be weather related (I'm in West Africa and it's pretty much hot and dry every day, rare tropical rains and no apparent link between rain and the days it does/doesn't work), though I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/157048-solution-rav4-42-speedometer-failure-intermittent-then-solid-fault/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article suggesting that&lt;/a&gt; in some older RAV4s with sunroofs (which mine does have), rain water can leak in and cause problems like this by corroding a connector block (but their problem has different symptoms to mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some sources suggesting it might be linked to the transmission - in my case, the automatic transmission seems to work fine regardless of whether the speedometer is having an off day or not. The only thing it seems to affect is the speedometer dial itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T23:23:02.690" Title="RAV4 speedometer sometimes stops at 0, sometimes (less often) works perfectly" Tags="|toyota|speedometer|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22690" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:23:02.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things which come to mind with your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wiring which is going to the speedo sensor on the transmission is somehow messed up. This could be a break in the wiring, or it could be corrosion in the socket where it connects to the wiring harness. You can do a continuity check between the wiring harness at the ECU (or TCU if so equipped) to see if the wiring is bad. This seems less likely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your speed sensor in the transmission which sends the signal back to the ECU is bad or going bad, causing an intermittent fault. I don't have a test for you on this one, though I'd bet there is one. A grounding issue for the sensor would fall in here as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You either have a grounding issue at the speedometer (in the dash) which is intermittent. I doubt this is the case because you'd be seeing it in the other gauges as well. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; however, be looking at an issue where the speedo itself is going bad ... I'm doubting this as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T23:23:02.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-21T23:26:31.633" Score="5" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Honda accord Ex (F22B1). When I bought it a few days ago the previous owner mentioned a few of the issues that he could remember. Since I've only ever owned Honda's and have worked on them for some time I figured there wasn't a problem I couldn't fix. This one has me a little perplexed. I started it up and noticed that valve ?tapets? (sorry don't know what they are really called) were all loose and making noise. That night after the engine had a good chance to cool down I took the valve cover off and used my old trick of a 1/4 turn loosen on all the valves from full tightness. (Side note: This wasn't a blind un-thought out process. if you want to know more we can chat about it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it all back together and it went from a full on clickity clakity motor to much quieter engine. However one of the valves is still making noise. I figured that because I did it sorta late and in a hurry that I didn't do as good of a job as I should have. So after driving it 120 miles the past few days and a much needed oil change I figured it was a good enough time to let the valves settle to their new clearance and decided to tighten them up again today but this time take more time doing it. Get it back together and one of them is still making noise. I'm fairly certain it is the #1 cyclinder's valves but I am still kinda guessing on that. Anywho I've just never had that happen to me before where it was still making noise after adjusting all of the valves. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last question: How do I know it's not the rod bearings? I used to think it was speed between clicking noises, but when I put my head in different areas of the engine bay it sounds like it's coming from the front of the engine and gets louder when I put my head closer to the exhaust manifold instead of next to the valve cover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12739" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T06:03:26.150" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T06:03:26.150" Title="1994 Honda Accord EX (F22B1) - Valves still making a ticking noise" Tags="|honda|noise|accord|valve|vtec|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22672" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:54:28.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A vacuum leak after the MAF sensor could also cause this.  I would do this before replacing any parts, since it doesn't cost anything (if you have some starter fluid lying around).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=35s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; might be of use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T00:54:28.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T00:59:30.823" Score="4" ViewCount="12101" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PSI inevitably drops in tires during cold weather. Today, I'm getting a low pressure warning because of the freezing temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I inflate them while it's still freezing? If so, how much? If not, why not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually they warm up on their own during driving, but on short in town  trips they don't get warm enough to turn off the alert. (They go from 24 to 25, should be 32 PSI). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11271" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:55:57.153" Title="Should I inflate tires that are low pressure from freezing weather?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22695" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:55:57.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the tires are cold, raise the pressure up to the amount which should be in them. If that pressure (what's on the door tag in most cars) is 32psi, then that's where it should be. When the temperature gets warm out, you'll more than likely need to lower the pressure in them so they'll be back down to the normal pressure. If you have tire pressure sensors, most will not only tell you when low, but will tell you when they are too high as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:55:57.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22701" CreationDate="2015-11-22T03:18:55.110" Score="4" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that not doing this properly will destroy your transmission/synchros. What's the proper way to do it? I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I'm doing it right, but I've found most people's descriptions to be vague and confusing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, looking at the engine RPM, how do you know what the transmission RPM is to match it? Also, I've noticed that upshifting quickly seems to minimize the need to hit the gas while shifting, but is shifting too fast bad for the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13305" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:02:39.340" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:02:39.340" Title="What is rev matching, and how do you do it correctly?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-11-23T13:44:03.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22686" CreationDate="2015-11-22T04:54:29.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good example of PID graphing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the possibility that these symptoms are caused by a mixture issue instead of timing. The STFT is adding fuel and the symptom of hesitation further suggests that the mixture is lean. It is likely that if O2(B1S1) and INJ PID's were included these would show a lean O2 with a corresponding lengthening of injector on time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this symptom set I graph the following PIDs: O2b1s1, Inj time, SFFT, LTFT, RPM,   Then make a graph from idle, a few seconds of steady cruise then wide open throttle through the 1-2 shift. Study of the resulting graph can usually rule out several possible causes. &#xA;Given the symptoms and your data that the system is lean, I would look for an intake leak, somewhere between the MAF sensor and the manifold gasket. From past experience the intake manifold gasket is my first test point. I feed a little propane into the intake as a first test, low tech, but easy and it can show mixture problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think the timing retard is due to a knock sensor input. The PCM is trying to ignite a very lean mixture; the best time to do that is after the heating of compression is done but before the pressure drops too much. To prevent knock the PCM advances timing to start the fire early which burns much of the fuel before the max pressure/temperature point is reached, leaving little fuel left to explode. Retarding the timing has the spark arrive after the explosion (ping) has already happened, too late to prevent ping. If this remains a concern unplug the knock sensor and retest. &#xA;The wiring diagram shows a knock sensor for a 2L 626. Testing of knock sensors requires an oscilloscope. It is problematic as pass/fail data is not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LOAD PID is often unreliable when the system is not under a load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T04:54:29.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:23:13.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set the valve clearance with feeler gauges. Exhaust .012&quot; Intake .010&quot;.  30 yrs of Honda and I still do not trust any other method. If one of my employees does not use gauges we will be having a chat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rod knock is usually much more evident on acceleration and not heard at idle until the damage is quite advanced. The noise can vary but is usually a lower pitch than valve tick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes of valve train tick. Worn camshaft lobe. Sticking valve. Sticking rocker arm bearing. Loose timing belt sprocket bolt. Worn cam bearings.&#xA;If this has the V-tec system then that opens up other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T05:23:13.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22697" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:38:59.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers are vague because there is no scientific way to match engine speed to transmission input shaft speed. We do not know what the input shaft speed is. Matching is a learned skill and it varies with different cars and with the age and hence the feel of the clutch pedal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell if when the clutch is let out the tachometer barely changes rpm as the clutch finishes engagement, match has been achieved. If the tach quickly jumps up or down much, match was not achieved. I consider anything under 200 rpm OK. Most people burn in the muscle memory required quickly, a few never quite get it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very quick shift is not ideal. It is hard on the transmission synchromesh parts. On the other hand a slow shift can make matching harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T05:38:59.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22688" CreationDate="2015-11-22T07:54:19.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the oil level was low before it went into storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon sitting, the oil will have settled  for a few % above low error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving the oil becomes distributed around moving parts and resulting in low oil alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil level drops again now you have added more oil, then suspect leak. If not, its just a very wierd coincidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13309" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T07:54:19.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T13:47:38.333" Score="3" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have little mechanical experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to try and do the Timing Belt / Water Pump in my 2003 Subaru Outback ( Interference Engine ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watched a video where someone neglected to put the engine in time before removing the timing belt tensioner ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-elmEngTEE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-elmEngTEE&lt;/a&gt; ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed his direction took off my belt tensioner and I have also cranked the main shaft about a quarter turn, I realized that the cams weren't moving in sync and stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me how to get my engine in time so I can install the new timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T06:49:51.037" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:53:16.667" Title="'Re-Timing' my Engine after timing belt removal" Tags="|engine|timing-belt|outback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22709" CreationDate="2015-11-22T13:52:58.110" Score="6" ViewCount="42541" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to remove the main pulley from my timing belt, I place a screwdriver in the flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I failed to realize that the screwdriver had 'popped' out of place and proceed to crank the engine backwards ( counter clock wise ) 3- 4 revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened on a 2003 Subaru Outback ( Interference Engine ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible I have done damage to my engine? &#xA;How do I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T15:12:00.357" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T22:56:59.210" Title="Have I caused engine damage by cranking it backwards?" Tags="|subaru|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22708" CreationDate="2015-11-22T15:06:32.620" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your timing belt was still attached you should be okay. When turning an engine in reverse, the only things it can damage are the oil pump and possibly the water pump. You'd have to do it QUITE a bit though, four revolutions shouldn't hurt it. The reason it CAN damage the engine is because you're forcing the internal mechanisms to run in the opposite direction they were engineered to turn. Like I said above though, you'd need to do it quite a bit. Many vehicles require you to actually rotate the engine backwards to install transmissions and valve-train components; Honda, Toyota, and Hyundai are perfect examples. I've worked on quite a few Subarus and I've had my timing and crank shaft slip backwards. I never had an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;Interference&quot; just means that when your camshaft and crankshaft timing are not cohesive, the piston will hit valves once it reaches it's TDC. As long as you had your timing belt on BEFORE you did this, you should should be fine. If not, rotate the engine VERY slowly with a breaker bar or long handled ratchet and wait to see if it catches anywhere. I worked on a Hyundai Tiburon and the person before me was off by a couple of teeth on the timing belt. It started, but sounded like a tin can full of marbles (The valves slapping the pistons!). I hope this helps you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T15:06:32.620" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22589" CreationDate="2015-11-22T18:56:11.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a mixture is tradition and function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red has been used to signify &quot;Stop&quot; much longer and in many more applications than just motor vehicles. Stop and Do-Not-Enter signs are used everywhere. Possibly, although I can not confirm or cite a source, in history blood was used to mark doors and entryways that should not be entered and therefor the red color has always be associated with &quot;stop&quot;. There are many other examples and demonstrations of red being used for indicate warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functionally Red light has less effect on human low light vision than any other visible color. Red tail and brake lights are highly identifiable to the ROD cells in your eyes, while higher wavelength colors like green or blue are harder to distinguish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in All, many different factors may have been used to determine the standards used. Today the reason you have to have RED lights is due to the law. That's all the lawyers care about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red tail/brake lights serve as more than just indications of stopping. Tail Lights can inform you of another vehicle. By identifying Tail lights instead of headlights you can determine the vehicle is moving away from you. In the US there are limits to the width of separation of the two tail lights allowing you to be able to reliably determine distance. Other Features like clearance lights tell you how large a vehicle is. How long it is, How tall, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EUzm.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EUzm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;US Clearance Light Requirements&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/TBMpstr.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US National Highway Transportation Safety Administration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Yellow Turn Signals that is a European thing. Many US vehicles just flash the corresponding brake light to indicate a turn. The Yellow offers some differentiation to make it easier to identify a turning vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some extra information on light based identification look into why boats and planes have red and green lights on the front. Runway landing lights have some interesting meaning and features as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T18:56:11.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22713" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:51:23.307" Score="7" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing some research on the Honda CRF450. This is a single-cylinder engine. I'm interested in the fuel-injected models (not the older carbureted versions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, this engine doesn't have a camshaft position sensor, so there's no way to tell which stroke the engine is in. This means that the bike can only use the crankshaft position to decide when to inject fuel and when to spark, and it can't tell the difference between the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this bike inject fuel AND spark during the exhaust stroke? I understand wasted spark systems, but I thought those only worked because there's no fuel during the exhaust stroke. Is there any way for this bike to avoid injecting fuel outside of the compression stroke, and if not, why is it okay for the bike to use &quot;wasted combustion&quot; with both fuel and spark firing at the wrong time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13317" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T01:00:09.113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T01:00:09.113" Title="Single-cylinder engine - no camshaft position sensor?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|ignition|timing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22711" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:09:45.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the dawn of fuel injection most cars used a simultaneous double fire system. During every crank shaft revolution the injectors spray half the fuel needed. This way half the fuel waits on top of the intake valve. When the intake valve opens the first half is dumped in and the injector sprays in the other half the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar thing happens with the spark. The spark fires both during the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These systems work just fine without the necessity of a camshaft position sensor. The only real reason that cars grew camshaft position sensors is that only spraying the fuel in while the intake valve is open is more efficient and allows cars to run cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:09:45.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16484" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:36:19.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a simple case of &quot;Forgotten Shims&quot;.  Shims are usually provided with the purchase of a new caliper.  The shims hold the brake pad in a suspended state within the caliper housing.  this allows some space for the shim to move freely during forward and reverse braking operation.  usually if the shims are not present the brakes will make a tap noise when engaging in either direction because there is no shim to hold the pad suspended and so it just knock on the caliper housing when engaged during vehicle movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:36:19.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22656" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:55:15.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two immediate things that comes to mind for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CV joints, but this will get better and worse according to the position of the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This happened on my FIL's car. He lost the top bolt on the torque plate (to which the brake caliper is attached). This caused the entire caliper to rotate away under certain conditions and cause a knocking/grinding sound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13319" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:55:15.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:02:29.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I had a VW Jetta Mk2 that would eat an alternator approximately every 18 months. Because this vehicle had an AC-compressor fitted lower down, the alternator sat on top with a short belt that drove it from the nearest pully. Common sense (and perhaps a little bit of Physics 101) told me that due to the way that belt pulls down on the alternator axle, this is likely the reason. My solution was to not tighten that belt too much. I figured that replacing the belt a bit more often costs less than replacing the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13319" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T21:43:51.050" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T21:43:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:37:27.720" Score="2" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 Ford Escort shift lever &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt; won't move into 1st gear position unless I turn the motor off, then start in that gear. It also, &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt;, won't move into any of the gear positions and I have to coast to side of road, kill engine and start over. Recently, it has started to, &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt;, start up in gear but start moving even with the clutch pedal still depressed; additionally, when this happens, the lever will not move from that position at all (either 1st or reverse, of course), not to neutral, nothing. What is going on?&#xA;I do mean the stick itself won't move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13320" LastEditorUserId="13320" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T15:28:20.770" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T15:28:20.770" Title="Why does my gear-shift lever seem to freeze in position sometimes?" Tags="|ford|transmission|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:42:11.917" Score="5" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once went to get my tires replaced on my '03 Honda Accord after not having rotated them in a while. One of the front tires seemed to be more worn than the other front tire. An employee at the tire center made a comment that the one front tire was more worn than the other because it was the &quot;drive tire&quot;. Or something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding was that with an open differential on a front wheel drive car, the torque is split evenly between the two front wheels. I don't understand why one of the front tires would wear faster than the other unless there some kind of problem (bad alignment, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that one of the front wheels would wear faster during normal operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T16:09:31.517" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:09:31.517" Title="Is there such a thing as a &quot;drive tire&quot;?" Tags="|tires|wheels|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:59:01.003" Score="0" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kia just bought a battery last week. My car will not start today. No clicking sound no lights no radio my car won't even lock nothing works. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13322" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T12:52:29.213" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T12:52:29.213" Title="Kia with no power" Tags="|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22717" CreationDate="2015-11-22T23:05:21.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description it sounds like something about your clutch is failing. It may be the clutch itself or some part of the clutch system that disengages the clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First gear on older cars is normally not synchronized. When the clutch starts dragging for any reason the first gear may be the first to start having issues because the other gears can overcome the dragging with their synchronizers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the clutch gets really bad then no gear will work well or at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T23:05:21.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T23:12:16.027" Score="4" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a new exhaust fitted, the part that goes from the front wheel area all the way to the back. And NOW there is a smell of exhaust fumes in the veacle, that seams to be coming from the vents. Also the exhaust makes a noise every so often when the back hanging bolt is hitting the body of the car. Could the fumes be from the badly fitted exhaust? Or most likely something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13323" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T23:12:16.027" Title="Mercedes veto Exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|mercedes-benz|smell|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22719" CreationDate="2015-11-22T23:31:31.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the car for a parasitic draw. Something that draws on the battery while the car is off. It could be as simple as leaving the dome light on or as complicated as a failed module. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check for a draw, get a fully charged battery or charge the one you have. Install the battery but do not connect the negative cable. Use a multi meter set to amps to connect the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal. (the meter is between the two) Allow the vehicle to fully fall asleep for around an hour. A standard rule of thumb is 25mA of draw when the car is asleep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the draw is higher then that start pulling fuses while watching the meter. When the current drops to an acceptable level, explore the fuse that did it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few words of caution; when the battery is first hooked up the current draw may be high so make sure the meter you have can handle it. There are devices that allow easy connection and disconnect of a battery cable for measuring purposes. Also the meter needs to be sensitive enough to measure in milliamps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T23:31:31.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22711" CreationDate="2015-11-23T01:43:00.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EFI software can watch the crank position speed and determine if it is in the compression stroke or exhaust (since the compression stroke will slow down while going up), and/or it can monitor the MAP sensor that reads the intake manifold pressure to determine intake vs power stroke, depending on the number of cylinders vs intake manifold configuration (MAP monitors one cylinder or multiple).  Since yours is single cylinder, either technique would work.   Don't forget that the EFI computer is sampling MAP and time for each location of the crank position sensor wheel, so it knows a lot of information over the course of one cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13324" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T01:43:00.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T01:51:37.963" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Chevy Venture, that supposedly the Mechanic changed the spark plugs, but when trying to do a tune-up one of the Spark Plugs broke off and the electrode is still in it. I found online a lot of Spark Plug extractors for Fords, but, none for Chevy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, how  can I remove the electrode?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after that I know I can use a Extractor to remove the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13325" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T03:31:38.687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T03:31:38.687" Title="Broken Spark Plug removal" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-18T00:51:37.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22718" CreationDate="2015-11-23T04:16:39.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, you've got it a bit backwards; Let me explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;em&gt;Open Differential&lt;/em&gt; has what is commonly referred to as &quot;spider gears&quot;. These in combination with clutch packs allow one wheel to apply more torque or rotate quicker for better traction so your wheels don't bind up during sharp cornering or if you lose a lot of traction to one tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;Closed Differential&lt;/em&gt; is locked in place so that any axle or wheel gets the same amount of torque applied to it; These are common drag racing setups since cornering isn't really vital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drive Tire&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; being the reason for wear on the tread.... not likely. I've never in my life heard the term &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drive tire&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; used the way you described it. It could possibly have been a VERY misinformed individual that had no idea what he was talking about. Older Honda's did have single wheel drive transmissions, but definitely not an '03. I know this because I worked on their transmissions regularly for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be possible that someone modified it, but doubtful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A test you can do is put the car up on a lift (SAFELY). Start the engine and put in Drive or 1st gear. Once this has been done, use a long handled pry bar to push your caliper into the closed position. PLEASE be very careful when doing this!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results should be as followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one wheel stops but the other keeps spinning, you have an open differential.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you stop one wheel and they both stop spinning, or you stall the car; It's a closed or sometimes referred to as a modified &quot;welded&quot; differential.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you see that only one wheel moves, you have a single wheel drive-line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do not try to hold the wheels with your hands, you will not have the strength to stop the wheels and you can get caught up in something. By engaging the caliper with a pry-bar you're basically hitting the brake pedal without your foot.&#xA;This is also very common practice to weed out wheel bearing problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your issue is most likely suspension or subframe related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:58:34.947" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:58:34.947" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-11-23T04:30:11.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;98-009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;April 13,1999&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applies To:&#xA;1995-97 Accord-All Ohio-built LX and DX models&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticking Noise From the Valve Train&#xA;(Supersedes 98-009, dated June 23, 1998)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SYMPTOM&#xA;Ticking noise from the valve train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROBABLE CAUSE&#xA;Intake rocker arm shaft clearance is excessive at the number two cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CORRECTIVE ACTION&#xA;Adjust the valve clearances, or replace the cam holder and the adjoining intake rocker arm shafts at the number two cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PARTS INFORMATION&#xA;Cam Holder kit/N 12010-P0B-305, H/C 5686423&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like it just took a while for yours to act up. It says 1995, but thats just Honda trying to cover their butts. This issue has been around since very late 80's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy above me is probably right, I was just adding proof to his answer; If it solves your issue please upvote him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T04:30:11.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T09:31:12.800" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine lives in a very polluted city and she gets headaches every time she gets stuck in the traffic jams, lasting easily one hour. The cars there are very old and polluting, even if the cars this friend uses is not particularly old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if there are devices, besides normal particle/pollen filters, to clean the air getting in the cabin from common &lt;em&gt;gas&lt;/em&gt; pollutants such as ozone and NOx in the first place. Ozone would be enough, NOx is less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T14:52:30.733" Title="Is there a way to clean air getting in the cabin?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22728" CreationDate="2015-11-23T10:54:24.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car features a &quot;Recirc. Air&quot; button which closes the external air vents and instead recycles air around the cabin.  This is how I avoid getting pollutants into the car in, for example, a tunnel or heavy traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth your friend checking to see if their car has this option rather than attempting to filter the pollutants at source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T10:54:24.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22679" CreationDate="2015-11-23T12:04:29.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise being generated by the fuel pump will relate to how hard it's having to work to provide the fuel line pressure that is required at the time.  It makes sense to me that, when you come off the throttle, your fuel demand drops as the injectors close, this leads to a &quot;glut&quot; of fuel pressure in the lines so that pump doesn't have to do anywhere near as much work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, how loud is the fuel pump.  I've had a couple of cars with fuel pumps I could hear but not so loud that I'd hear them over a revving engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T12:04:29.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22711" CreationDate="2015-11-23T12:37:08.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/new-bikes/2008/september/sep0508-honda-crf450r-2009/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; seems to suggest that the fuel injection system fitted to this engine doesn't draw it's power from the battery but instead relies on the revolution of the engine to provide power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't surprise me if this provides a timed &quot;spike&quot; in the electricity generated at a key moment for timing purposes as opposed to providing a smooth, constant supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T12:37:08.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22728" CreationDate="2015-11-23T12:55:09.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern cars feature a cabin air filter - it might be worth getting this cleaned or replaced if she's not done so. Othewise, as Steve says, the Recirc button is good, but only for relatively short times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T12:55:09.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22679" CreationDate="2015-11-23T13:33:37.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issues may be beyond the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The telling sign of this is that a change in engine load is inducing a change in the noise of the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that your fuel supply system is a &quot;return&quot;-style fuel system in which the fuel flow provided by the pump is constant, regardless of load; the pressure regulator determines how much fuel is recycled back to the fuel tank based on engine load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, here are a few things that may be contributing to the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Improper fuel regulation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of reference to manifold pressure, so the fuel regulator is delivering a fixed amount of fuel regardless of engine load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very common culprit for this is a compromised vacuum line between the engine manifold and fuel regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clogged fuel filter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The build-up of debris can accumulate over time to the point that it affects the ability of the fuel regulator to maintain a certain pressure differential between the fuel rail and the manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T13:33:37.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22636" CreationDate="2015-11-23T15:35:20.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turned out to be the starter. Needed to get it replaced. (what worked to get it started, is turn the key and tap on the starter in your engine at the same time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13269" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T15:35:20.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9763" CreationDate="2015-11-23T16:22:04.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having the same problem right now.  I tried a correctly-sized triple square .. but it still stripped .. (seat-belt retaining bolt on a VW) perhaps due to the thread-lock compound and the pressure involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After calling around, mechanics suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using an angle grinder (very gradually) to grind off two sides (four sides if you're good) to get a spanner/wrench around the head of the bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the bolt (then let it cool) before attempting to undo it with the spanner to break the lock-tite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having mixed success because of the recess, but maybe it'll help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13328" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T16:22:04.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22686" CreationDate="2015-11-23T19:10:05.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You probably need a new lambda sensor. Here's why:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right - the lambda sensor needs to reach a certain operating temperature to function properly. Until it reaches that operating temperature, the engine ECU will assume open-loop operation and not rely on the sensor's signal to determine whether the engine is running rich or lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tests and data tell me a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second graph shows the car running in open loop mode. The voltage output steadily climbs until about 0.1 V (lower limit for normal narrowband O2 sensor output), which is when your DTC kicks in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should not take that long for the sensor to heat up, especially at sustained medium RPM's, which tells me that &lt;strong&gt;the heater element inside the O2 sensor is not getting activated&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can figure out if the heater element in the O2 sensor has a break in it by using the test outlined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/15388/675&quot;&gt;this Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is continuity, it means the O2 sensor is good and your issue is external to the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't continuity, you need a new O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The third graph makes me wonder if the O2 sensor is even working as it should; this is what prompted my question about whether the data was logged with the DTC cleared or present. Judging by the lack of STFT variation (in contrast to the first graph where it does change), I'd guess that the DTC was present but can't be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that surprises me is the very low voltage signal, because the engine coolant temperature shows that the engine is quite warm (which it should be after 9 minutes of running at 4000 RPM), so regardless of the O2 heater malfunction that lambda sensor should be hot and triggering the ECU to run in closed loop (which it clearly isn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal narrowband O2 sensor voltage trace should flicker between 0.1 and 0.9 V, which just isn't happening. It is quite plausible that the ECU doesn't trust the voltage it sees from the sensor, forcing it to stay in open loop mode.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One might wonder where the STFT variation in the first graph comes from since the ECU is not using the O2 sensor output in open loop mode. This isn't something to be surprised about since the ECU can estimate air-fuel ratio using the MAF signal and injector pulsewidth. It's not ideal, but at least it lets the engine run.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is far more likely for a lambda sensor to go bad than for a knock sensor to go bad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;P.S.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is too early to say whether the O2 sensor is the only problem here, but you cannot proceed with the diagnosis without addressing it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T19:10:05.037" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T19:44:48.350" Score="3" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I was in a motorcycle accident and my handlebar had bent and so had my old brake lever. A buddy of mine who's quite good with motorcycle's bent the bar back and changed the brake lever. Since than the front brake makes a clicking sound when applied and it's extremely weak! Could air have gotten in the system? What could be the problem here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13334" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:51:22.693" Title="Motorcycle front brake's are weak" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22743" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:05:07.103" Score="1" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start up my 2003 petrol car, as soon as it fires I often give it a dab of the throttle, so the battery recovers. It's fuel injected, no carburetor or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told this is pointless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does giving a dab of the throttle when I start my car have any benefits?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no starting problems or anything, it's just something I've always done in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:31:59.100" Title="Should I give a little throttle after my car starts?" Tags="|engine|starting|throttle|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22740" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:18:56.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are holding the throttle down to let the car idle at a higher RPM than normal (which can help the car warm up faster), what you are doing shouldn't have any side effects at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally seen as okay to give it a little gas and have it idle at around 2k RPM to help it warm up. As long as you keep the revs down until your car is warmed up, you should be fine. I have an 03 Subaru Forester, and I just take it for a light drive around the neighborhood before going anywhere, all while keeping it under 3k (I never really go over 2.2k during this time either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastEditorUserId="13336" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T21:29:35.733" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:29:35.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22740" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:31:59.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there are no benefits to giving your car throttle immediately after startup. This extra throttle will not recover the battery from the amount of power you just used to start the car any better than it will by just driving immediately after you start up. Also, given that you have a fuel-injected vehicle, there's no need to warm up the engine for more than a few seconds in the winter before driving. That some people feel the need to do this is either for their own comfort (you get hot air faster) or it's a remnant of the mindset from the days of carburetors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see my response &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21585/does-revving-a-car-when-cold-make-it-warm-up-faster/21589#21589&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for a similar question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do for your car in the winter is start it up, scrape the ice of the car if there is any, and drive. In this short amount of time, it'll be warm enough to start driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:31:59.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22943" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:43:54.070" Score="4" ViewCount="10808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for me to add heated mirrors to my car, if it wasn't an option at all as standard? I would like to keep the mirrors standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mirrors on my 2003 Opel Agila are a really awkward shape, which do not let ice scrapers fit inside properly, and de-icer spray just freezes after a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an aftermarket kit which allows me to make the mirrors heated without changing the actual mirror? I'm willing to do extra wiring, and at a last resort change the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It is not an option on any model of the Agila, or the identical Wagon R+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T13:24:48.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T13:24:48.453" Title="Can I retrofit heated side mirrors if it wasn't an option with the car?" Tags="|opel|agila|aftermarket-upgrade|mirrors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22739" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:51:22.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance that air got into your system when the motorcycle was on it's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to bleed the air out of your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T21:51:22.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T21:55:07.997" Score="0" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi so when I try to start my car nothing happens I even got a new battery nothing happens. Also my cars remote control has no effect on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me what is this problem ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13338" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T08:20:29.677" Title="My car won't start. Nothing happens" Tags="|acura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22752" CreationDate="2015-11-23T22:52:45.690" Score="2" ViewCount="3357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 CDTI EcoFlex and initially when I bought it the heater resistor we thought was broken as the blower fans would only work on dial 4, we replaced it and it worked for about a week and it only works on 4 again, thats my first problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, this may be related but my heating takes an awfully long time to heat up and if the engine is running but the car is idle it blows cold air after about 10-15 minutes of solid driving it finally slowly heats up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13339" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T12:51:01.847" Title="Vauxhall Corsa heating problems" Tags="|heater|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-23T23:04:51.237" Score="3" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I replaced my headlight low beam Halogen bulbs with LED bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after driving for couple days I noticed that my lights are pointing too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand what may cause an issue:&#xA;1. Either I need to adjust the height&#xA;2. Or I need to rotate/flip my bulbs 180 degree around?&#xA;Or maybe it is something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LED bulbs I bought: OPT7 LED Headlight Bulbs w/ Clear Arc-Beam Kit - 9006 - 60w 7,000Lm 6K Cool White CREE. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00VNBDVOC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amazon link&lt;/a&gt; if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:48:04.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:48:04.760" Title="Toyota Avalon 2006 headlight low beam height adjustment" Tags="|toyota|headlight|avalon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-24T00:05:19.493" Score="1" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 Honda Accord has ~170k mi, a lot of hwy miles, so minimal brake use!&#xA;The original rotors AND front brake pads (seriously!) are still on and the rear brake pads that were replaced at only ~32k mi (so current rear pads now have ~138k! Don't get me started there, HONDA!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All pads are ready to be replaced obviously (though they just passed VA inspection again!).  Should I go ahead and replace the rotors as well at this point, 170k miles, but also my &quot;first&quot; (front) pad replacement?  My front right brake/wheel squeals LOUDLY in reverse, like metal on metal!  Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13341" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T04:19:35.570" Title="Rotor replacement on 2010 Honda Accord w/ 170k mi!" Tags="|honda|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22750" CreationDate="2015-11-24T00:38:35.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;New brake pads should always be installed on smooth rotors. That includes either new rotors or having the old ones resurfaced. The rotors need measured. If there is enough meat on them to resurface, then do it. If they are too thin then get new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T00:38:35.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22748" CreationDate="2015-11-24T00:57:56.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue #1: You probably blew the second resistor. Sometimes it just happens. I'd take it back to the place you bought it from and tell them it was defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue #2: It sounds as though &lt;strong&gt;your thermostat is stuck open and should be replaced&lt;/strong&gt;. If coolant is allowed to flow unchecked through the system, you'll only get cold air through your HVAC until the entire system heats up, then it will only be luke warm to moderately warm, but probably will never get completely hot. You can probably look at your temp gauge in the dash and see that the engine isn't warming up all the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T12:51:01.847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T12:51:01.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22750" CreationDate="2015-11-24T01:10:34.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had 237,000 miles on my 2001 Accord and never had to replace the rotors. Just before I traded my car in for a 2014 Accord, my mechanic (not Honda) said I still had one more brake job left in the rotors. (When I was taking my car into the dealer, they were saying I needed brakes about every 30,000 miles; this on a car that was driven 90% on the freeway. After the last time, I took the car into another mechanic. He said I still had 80% left on the pads that Honda said were desperately in need of replacement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T01:10:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-24T01:14:16.940" Score="2" ViewCount="76862" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some in the glove compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some 4 or 5 under the drawer under the passenger seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some somewhere under the bonnet I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car manual describes some but does not describe them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuses I have actually never had a problem with so far. But it was handy on occasion to reset electronics of one system and not whole car (and have to enter alarm code and reprogram windows e.t.c.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help fill in the gaps in knowledge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics of glove compartment box: . . .&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9lHi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9lHi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuses in glove box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMXEb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMXEb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuse icons left&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBnLC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBnLC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuse icons right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic of fuses under drawer under passenger seat:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adsSd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adsSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuses under passenger seat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white 25A fuse under passenger seat is for Automatic Parking Brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13343" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T23:37:02.303" Title="Where (and what?) are the fuses in Renault Megane Grande Scenic?" Tags="|fuse|renault|megane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23423" CreationDate="2015-11-24T01:58:36.747" Score="4" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Vitz 2007 idles very rough. Sometimes it stalls if I suddenly stop after few miles drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the vehicle to a mechanic and he cleaned up the fuel pump. He used compressed air to clean up. When he tried to clean the top part of the pump (I don't know the exact name) it blew up. There was some sort of a black colored powder inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic told that the purpose of it is to remove any fuel vapor from the outgoing air when filling the tank and that part is not vital. He just re assembled the pump and installed in the car again. Now I am driving with the damaged fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough idling problem hasn't got resolved either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it OK to drive the car with this damaged fuel pump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T16:41:21.207" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T16:41:21.207" Title="Possible Fuel pump damage" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|emissions|fuel-filter|vitz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-24T02:16:14.257" Score="4" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been quite baffled by this for a while now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an odd rattling, or more like a chain moving, (sometimes it even sounds almost like a trickle)  sound which only occurs in :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Cold weather&#xA;2) After pressing the gas and starting to accelerate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it might be possible the sound continues once I've gotten up to speed and I'm just not hearing it, but it doesn't seem that way.  It certainly isn't audible when I'm slowing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Civic.  Are there any suggestions on what it could be ?  I just changed the Timing belt but I've gotten this sound for far longer before I did that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13344" LastEditorUserId="13344" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T04:51:51.383" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T04:51:51.383" Title="A strange rattling only when accelerating from 0 in cold weather" Tags="|honda|civic|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22759" CreationDate="2015-11-24T04:13:09.317" Score="3" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I noticed that my power steering fluid was a little low. My owner's manual stated that automatic transmission fluid should be used, so I went out and bought a quart of cheap ATF and topped it off. It didn't occur to me until later that this could be a problem, when I was reading about issues with mixing fluids in a transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had any problems, but I could have just been lucky. On the other hand, maybe the requirements for power steering are such that it won't make a difference. Is it really necessary to flush the whole system if fluid needs to be added, if you aren't sure what brand was in there to begin with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13305" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T06:17:52.327" Title="Will mixing multiple types of automatic transmission fluid in a power steering system cause problems?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22757" CreationDate="2015-11-24T06:17:52.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ATF based power steering systems are not especially picky about fluid quality. That is not to say that using the lowest quality is a wise choice. Not all systems use ATF and some would be damaged by it, so it is appropriate to check the manual and only use the correct fluid.  Many system do not specify a change interval, suggesting that the fluid is expected to last the life of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power system fluid level should not drop. When the fluid is low, a leak is probable. These should be located and repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmissions are a different story. The exact fluid specified must be used. The fluid is just much a &quot;part&quot; as a shaft or clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T06:17:52.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22747" CreationDate="2015-11-24T08:20:29.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very limited number of things that could be wrong here and all of them revolve around the battery.  If the battery is new and charged and you haven't left anything on that has flattened this battery, then you have a bad connection from the battery positive to the fuse box or the battery negative to the bodywork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the battery connectors are making a good connection to the battery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the ends of the cables are securely connected in to the battery connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery cables are not damaged along their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check where the other end of the positive cable go into the fuse box, which shouldn't be  far away, make sure it is securely connected and there is no corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check where the other end of the negative cable connects to the bodywork, make sure it is secure and again with no corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could loosen each of these connections and clean them before fastening them back down.  If you do this, disconnect the battery negative connector during the whole procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the fuse-able link in the fuse box and the surrounding area for signs of burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T08:20:29.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21873" CreationDate="2015-11-24T11:08:47.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to apply liberal amounts of brake cleaner or even strip the calipers, clean up the moving parts (sliders, etc) with a stiff brush / emmery paper then apply a film of copper slip to the BACK (NOT FRICTION SIDE) of the brake pads and reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that the pads have been fitted without their anti-squeal shims (the thin metal plates that go behind the pads on some setups).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thing you could check is that the backplate (splash guard) isn't loose or out of shape and touching the disc at certain points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T11:08:47.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22778" CreationDate="2015-11-24T15:11:40.520" Score="4" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda BF6 outboard that only gets started each summer. Before winterizing, I drain the fuel etc., but it is still very difficult to start the 1st time in the summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can remove the cover and pull starter and there is a 17 mm nut on the shaft. I can use a power drill to start it with this and it works well (I know it is slightly dangerous if I cannot disconnect the drill in time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a handheld battery drill/driver instead, but the one I have doesn't have enough torque. The ones with high torque are all impact drivers. My Q is -- would the hammer action damage my motor (or the nut) ? The impact drivers have a typical torque of over 1000 lb-in, but the usual drills are less than 200 lb-in. What is a good brand to look for ?&#xA;2nd question -- is there any type of one-way clutch available that fits these that would not allow the outboard to spin the drill ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13346" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T01:25:54.797" Title="Starting 6 HP outboard with cordless drill/driver" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22764" CreationDate="2015-11-24T15:23:25.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Impact drivers don't produce a continuous high torque, they produce a repeated pulse of high torque.  This will not turn your engine over, it will just tighten the nut well.  It probably wont do the crank bearings any good either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want something with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sprag clutch&lt;/a&gt; to allow one-way drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T15:33:51.910" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T15:33:51.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-24T16:59:23.157" Score="4" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Cadillac I get engine light to come up because I have changed my petrol cap and sensor is malfunctioning. I got myself &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251678845583?adgroupid=16885268106&amp;amp;hlpht=true&amp;amp;hlpv=2&amp;amp;rlsatarget=pla-124272975426&amp;amp;adtype=pla&amp;amp;ff3=1&amp;amp;lpid=122&amp;amp;poi=&amp;amp;ul_noapp=true&amp;amp;limghlpsr=true&amp;amp;ff19=0&amp;amp;device=c&amp;amp;chn=ps&amp;amp;campaignid=270621186&amp;amp;crdt=0&amp;amp;ff12=67&amp;amp;ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&amp;amp;ff14=122&amp;amp;viphx=1&amp;amp;ops=true&amp;amp;ff13=80&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wifi ELM 327 OBD-2 reader&lt;/a&gt;, and by using my laptop I managed to get RPM of engine - it must work. However full version of application costs ~150$ and functionality for error code resetting is not provided in free version. I then tried looking for Android app that would allow me to reset error codes, but after 2 hours of installing tens of apps (including upgrading to paid versions up to 10$) I finally gave up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know Android app that would work for Cadillac CTS?&lt;/strong&gt; Would prefer free (but would be perfectly happy with paid if not ridiculously expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T09:15:05.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T10:09:14.793" Title="Android App for ELM 327 that allows to reset codes for Cadillac CTS" Tags="|obd-ii|cadillac|elm-327|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22756" CreationDate="2015-11-24T17:51:51.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also had a rattling noise that &lt;em&gt;I noticed sometime after I had my timing belt replaced&lt;/em&gt; on my civic. I honestly can't remember if the noise occurred before the timing belt change as well, but I may have been paying more attention to the car having major work done on it. Anyway, in my case it turned out to be the lower bolt on the alternator. It was missing entirely.  Purchased another from Honda for $7 (bolt &amp;amp; nut) and put it on... no more rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cases of rattling on my civic was from a loose heat shield (between the catalytic converter and under carriage. I just had the shop rip it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13351" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T17:51:51.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22770" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:42:18.213" Score="4" ViewCount="10560" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Chevrolet Lumina 2001.&#xA;About 2 months ago I changed the radiator of my car because it was leaking, the guy that changed the radiator got the radiator in a junk yard place for cheap price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I found that it's leaking again and that it's coming from a crack. I decided then to buy a new radiator now online and get it fixed when it gets here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I was planning on going on a road trip for this coming long weekend, although I have noticed that the radiator takes time to get empty (about a day) I keep putting more coolant when I go to work which is about 50 miles from where I live so 100 miles every day so I don't have problems with overheating. I have noticed that it leaks more when it's hot (which makes sense since it has more pressure and tends to leak more than when its cold). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the question is, is there any temporary fix that I use so I can be safe for that trip? The radiator is going to arrive next week so I was thinking if even if there's no other fix, what if I just keep filling the car with coolant every time I get gas? &#xA;Thank you for your suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:38:46.833" Title="How can I fix my cracked radiator temporary for a trip? Is there any way to do it?" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|radiator|water-leak|lumina|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22766" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:50:51.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't list the apps you tried, but Torque (&lt;a href=&quot;http://torque-bhp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://torque-bhp.com/&lt;/a&gt;) is what I am using (on a different vehicle); however, the Cadillac CTS forums has numerous posts on folks using the app with success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13351" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T18:50:51.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22768" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:15:03.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can see and access the crack, a two-part epoxy or something like JB-Weld can be great for a temporary fix.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0411_stock_car_radiator_repair/jb_weld_patch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; shows the process on a metal radiator for a race car, but your fix would be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the site of the repair, and rough up the surface with fine sand paper, especially if working on plastic.  Mix the two-part epoxy and &lt;em&gt;generously&lt;/em&gt; apply to the crack.  If the crack is on a vertical surface, you may have to build a &quot;dam&quot; out of tape or something to keep it from running off of the cracked area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attempt this, plan on breaking down.  It will probably get you to your destination, but you need a plan for the worst case.  Carry several gallons of water/antifreeze.  Pack a blanket if it's cold outside.  Keep your phone charged, and know what road you're on at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:38:46.833" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:38:46.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22768" CreationDate="2015-11-24T19:49:57.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putty/epoxy works but here's a handy tip I picked up from my materials professor to ensure that the crack doesn't propagate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drill small holes at the ends of the crack to arrest its growth before using metal putty/epoxy to seal the existing crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad used to own a Maxima that developed a crack in the radiator's aluminum head. The mechanic he took it to used metal putty to paper over the crack, only for the crack to grow past the putty within a few days due to the high coolant pressure. I wish I'd known this trick at that time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T20:38:28.510" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T20:38:28.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22768" CreationDate="2015-11-24T20:17:18.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is one of the veins that is cracked, in an emergency it is sometimes possible to cut the vein and then fold both ends over a few times to seal them.  A pair of long nose pliers is usually all you need to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T20:17:18.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22777" CreationDate="2015-11-24T23:22:53.800" Score="4" ViewCount="31299" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is kind of a beater and I don't want to pour money into it. Apart from a bumpy ride, is anything really bad going to happen if I don't replace these parts? For example, will this put a significant amount of extra stress on the motor mounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13305" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T00:12:49.920" Title="Consequences of failing to replace bad struts and sway bar bushings" Tags="|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22803" CreationDate="2015-11-24T23:26:22.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often have spider webs on my right side mirror and in the handle to open my boot. I've seen a spider on the boot handle once, but when I tried to catch it, it crawled inside the handle somewhere (difficult to see, as it's one of those handles that's under the logo). I'm pretty sure the spider/s are still there, as even after cleaning the webs away, they come back soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never actually seen a spider &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the car (i.e. where the driver and passengers sit), and no webs inside either, so I'm guessing the spiders are inside the mirror / handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Hyundai i30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13355" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T07:13:26.153" Title="How do I get rid of spiders inside my car?" Tags="|hyundai|car|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T00:27:07.090" Score="2" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if I can just drop in. Can't find anything on how to tell what reluctor wheel is in the motors. Need help due to the fact that I took on a project and don't have a lot of  knowledge when it comes to newer cars. Plus wife is not happy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T00:54:36.997" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T17:17:46.620" Title="Help with six cylinder out of a trailblazer.05 into a 06" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22775" CreationDate="2015-11-25T00:54:03.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While externally the '05 would fit in the '06 (same dimensions, bolt-up, etc), my understanding is the internals are different. In '06 they &quot;redid&quot; the engine internally, which means the 05 will not work for you. You can use the engine out of an 07, but you'd need to swap your '06 injectors into the other engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T00:54:03.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22773" CreationDate="2015-11-25T01:03:23.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two big things which are a detriment to riding on worn out struts and bushings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety:&lt;/strong&gt; Worn struts cause longer stopping times/distances as dead struts allow the vehicle weight to shift (sometimes unexpectedly) during braking. This weight shift is a lot more than when you are using good struts, so braking distances suffer. You also will not be able to corner as well as good struts will allow you, either. You will notice both of these effects if trying to do either over bumpy roads ... the struts will just not be able to allow you to control your vehicle in a safe manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear on other parts:&lt;/strong&gt; The most notable things which worn bushings and struts cause is accelerated wear on the tires. Because the bushings hold the alignment in check, with the tires at the proper angles, when they wear out, it causes extra wear on the tires. Worn struts also allows the vehicle to bounce more, which causes wear on your springs. Springs are meant to support your vehicle's weight, not to bounce uncontrollably up and down. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand not wanting to put unneeded money into your vehicle, but sometimes if you want to continue to use your vehicle, the smart thing is to replace the worn parts. This doesn't mean you have to replace them with upper tier replacement parts (such as buying them from the dealership), but you should at least get them replaced with whatever you can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T00:12:49.920" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T00:12:49.920" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22764" CreationDate="2015-11-25T01:25:54.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your first question, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; an impact version &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be bad on your motor. You would basically be hammering away on the 17mm nut, torquing it beyond where it would need to be. This alone could cause the nut to break or the shaft upon which it tightens to become stripped or broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you if you want to continue to use the power device to get your motor started is two-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to use the corded power drill. The difference is, get the motor started while you are at home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the motor does begin to start, quit cranking it with the power drill and start to use the cord pull. This will alleviate any issues with over running the drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T01:25:54.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22786" CreationDate="2015-11-25T01:43:18.217" Score="7" ViewCount="39428" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Acura TSX had developed a violent shake when accelerating. Upon a brief inspection, I noticed the control arm/compliance bushings were partially torn (completely at one point, partially at two points). I assumed this was causing the shaking and replaced them. A year later, the shaking returned and I found the cause to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-08-acura-tsx-axle-vibration-issue...found-and-fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bad inner CV joints&lt;/a&gt;. However, my control arm bushings have started to tear again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming it was the CV's shaking that caused the tearing, so I'm hoping the tearing will not get worse. &lt;strong&gt;I want to know if it's dangerous to drive with a partially torn control arm bushing, or if I should replace it.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11205" LastEditorUserId="11205" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T12:54:22.103" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T22:27:34.377" Title="Is it dangerous to drive with partially torn control arm bushings?" Tags="|honda|safety|acura|cv-joint|bushing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T02:05:08.377" Score="3" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;After inserting key and turning to start position, starter continues to crank after engine starts. You can turn ignition off and remove key and starter continues to crank. have replaced solenoid, ignition tumblers and starter. What could be sticking to cause starter to continue to crank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13359" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T02:07:17.950" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T07:23:34.620" Title="on 1989 f350, after turning ignition on to crank position, turn key to off and remove key, starter continues to crank . what is sticking?" Tags="|ford|starting|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2015-11-25T02:21:23.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a mixture of 1 cup of peppermint oil to 1 gallon warm water in garden sprayer to deter spiders in my house. I have seen fewer spiders since doing this, hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13359" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T02:21:23.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2747" CreationDate="2015-11-25T02:23:22.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal, because the fluid is cold, when a mechanic is checking power steering level, it is important to spin the steering wheel 20-25 times from left lock to right lock to warm up the fluid. You're vehicles most likely have no problems. Try letting the vehicle warm up for 2 minutes or turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times before leaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T02:23:22.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11097" CreationDate="2015-11-25T05:38:07.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well all I can put in on that is that I live in central Queensland, we average 35 to 42 in the summer and let's say (early morning), to day average 3 to 18 in winter. Unless we get rain it is also extremely dry here for 90% of the year. Basically desert weather... When it's hot it HOT! When it's cold it's cold! But very dry.. All I can say is early morning when it's crisp the responsiveness and torque is neck snapping... Summer morning. But in the heat of the day I definitely notice my car will become quite sluggy. So in a nutshell from my experience, dry cold air is better and will always gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13361" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T10:43:03.260" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T10:43:03.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22780" CreationDate="2015-11-25T07:26:45.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say you have replaced the ignition tumblers, I am presuming you have replaced the electricial switch on the back of tumblers, so let's forget about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as you need to initiate this by turning the key, it can't be a short somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter is indeed being powered at this point, the only thing left that could cause this is the starter relay in the fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--UPDATE--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you didn't replace the switch, then the switch is also possibly faulty.  For simplicity I would first try swapping the starter relay in the fuse box for an identical one if there is one.  If that doesn't fix it, then the next thing to change would be the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T07:23:34.620" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T07:23:34.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22779" CreationDate="2015-11-25T09:23:54.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your jurisdiction, it may be illegal.  In the UK, the condition of these &quot;dust covers&quot; is now inspected and any degradation is considered a fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you consider the cost to replace these as opposed to having them fail during operation, I don't think there is a good argument not replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T09:23:54.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22779" CreationDate="2015-11-25T10:11:29.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not uncommon for the control arm bushings on many Hondas/ Acuras to expire quickly. It is however a bit dangerous to drive with them if they are starting to wear down or dry rot. They harden when this happens and cause other components on your suspension and sub-frame to fail. The lateral and vertical shaking of your car will cause something to give eventually. It's not something I'd ignore. You'll need a shop press, a bearing puller set and some patience if you do it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a video on youtube of a guy that really neglected his control arm bushings, his car starts to shake very violently in the video and he looses control and hits a tree. The reason was, because he ignored the issue and the wheel bearing sheared loose after months of being wiggled and knocked in ways it wasn't designed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just replace it. I know it can be a monetary and physical pain in the butt, but it's worth not having to deal with getting into an accident or not having a car at all. A short answer to this question is, no its not safe; It could last one more drive, or 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T10:11:29.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22779" CreationDate="2015-11-25T10:48:11.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, replace it - it'll be a lot better for your peace of mind! Plus, as Steve says, it may be illegal in your jurisdiction and /or fail any roadworthyness test - and if you were in an accident because it failed, and they could prove you knew about it beforehand, they'd throw the book at you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also get the alignment of the various suspension bits checked, in case there are any other problems that are causing the bushes to fail prematurely, e.g. something that is putting too much stress on them in an odd direction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T10:48:11.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22810" CreationDate="2015-11-25T11:40:46.863" Score="2" ViewCount="1637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the battery replaced in my Ford KA (08), and now the radio is requiring a passcode, which I do not know. Is there a way to find out what the passcode is, or bypass it somehow? I have seen this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7750/honda-accord-radio-anti-theft-code-not-working-what-am-i-doing-wrong-and-what&quot;&gt;Honda Accord radio anti-theft code not working...what am I doing wrong and what should I do?&lt;/a&gt; but it seems specific to Honda's and so does not apply to my Ford. Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:27:38.913" Title="Ford KA Car stereo reset after battery removed, requiring security code" Tags="|ford|audio|security|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22768" CreationDate="2015-11-25T12:48:56.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large number of people recommend sodium silicate - sold as &quot;liquid glass in the US I believe. This is also used as an egg preservative. An excellent user discussion of sodium silicate and other materials can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/liquid-glass-where-do-you-buy-it.370920/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in New Zealand. Here we have a material named &quot;Soldrit Super Soda&quot; which has been on the market for 40+ years (ask me how I know :-) ) and whichhas been known to perform miraculous cures. It's a grey powder with shiny inclusions - I understand that it may be a meltable metallic filled material which hardens when it leaks out through a crack or hole. I have seen it fix a hole that was about small finger size in a radiator. I've heard it said that it can clog radiator channels - and that seems believable - but many decades ago I used it on a nuber of occasions with excellent results and never any problems. It is also mentioned in the above discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9336" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T12:48:56.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22793" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:14:51.273" Score="15" ViewCount="5490" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Backdrop&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had really heavy rains here today. I was in my '99 M5, idling in traffic when I noticed the brake pedal feel became really notchy. When I let go of the brakes the pedal would not travel back up easily and the engine started sputtering until I gave it a bootful of throttle. I also noticed a lot of steam coming out of the exhaust when adding copious amounts of throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of behavior is well-documented on M5 forums - basically the compartment containing the brake booster  fills up with water when the drain plug gets clogged, which has the effect of ingesting water into the engine through the brake booster vacuum line (not to mention the booster itself). If enough water is ingested, it can result in hydrolock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My Concern&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concerned that the engine reached the stage of hydrolock while running, mainly because the engine would only idle poorly or stall whenever I pressed the brake pedal, and would idle well after the exhaust blew out a decent amount of steam via 5-10 seconds of high throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm concerned about is whether it is safe to turn the engine over now that it is &lt;strong&gt;cold&lt;/strong&gt;, since steam may have condensed to form water in the combustion chambers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that before turning the car off after reaching home, I pulled up the handbrake and gave the car 5-10 seconds' worth of sustained high throttle to blow out the steam, but have no way of telling if that was enough to make it &quot;safe&quot; for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to determine if the cylinders are too flooded to safely turn over?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of such a test, I was thinking of pulling the spark plugs, siphoning off any water using a vacuum line and cranking the engine over manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T10:56:30.813" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T10:56:30.813" Title="Afraid to crank engine - how can I tell if my cylinders are flooded with water?" Tags="|diagnostics|hydrolock|cylinder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:34:25.783" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed a busted intake out, also changed the plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some old antifreeze get in the plug holes when I pulled the plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reassembled the car, but it runs bad and has a ticking noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13368" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T22:34:02.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T22:34:02.063" Title="Antifreeze in my engine, and now it's making a ticking noise" Tags="|engine|ford|f-150|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22790" CreationDate="2015-11-25T16:50:05.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there are no sensors inside the cylinders, I can't think of any way of doing so, other than Mauro's suggestion of removing the plugs and turning it over, which would spurt out any water in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try leaving it to evaporate, but if any cylinders are sitting with both sets of valves shut, any water in those pots won't evaporate off, so you'd have to turn the engine over part of a turn (by hand) to cover all of them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T16:50:05.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22790" CreationDate="2015-11-25T17:41:16.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is just condensation you are worried about, then I wouldn't worry.  Water is produced normally by the combustion process.  I would be more worried about water in the inlet tracts waiting to be sucked in.  If it is too difficult to remove the plugs, I would turn the engine over with a wrench a few times, if there is significant water in the cylinders you will feel it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also disconnect any ducting on the inlet manifold to make sure that there is nothing pooled in the pipes that could get sucked in, if I thought it was a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T17:41:16.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22872" CreationDate="2015-11-25T17:45:06.410" Score="9" ViewCount="53634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Ford Focus (UK) with a 1.6 TDCi engine and 60K miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend I got error code &lt;strong&gt;P242F&lt;/strong&gt; stating &quot;diesel particulate filter restriction ash accumulation&quot; and the vehicle has gone into limp mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first had the same error a few months ago and was fortunate enough to be able to clear it using my OBDII tool and a 'hi-rev' journey up and down the motorway. Unfortunately I'm not as lucky this time and I'm seemingly stuck with the error for now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's interesting is that at first the yellow check engine light shows and the red screen on my dash displays the &quot;engine malfunction&quot; warning sign. If I use my OBDII tool at this point it says &quot;1 error code found&quot; and shows P242F.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I try to clear the code the yellow check engine light disappears and the tool shows 0 codes, but the warning screen still shows and the car is still in limp mode. After a day it goes back to the first stage again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a lot of reading to see if there's anything I can do myself before taking it to a garage and the general advice seems to be as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the EGR valve (some recommend blanking or replacing it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temporarily disconnect the MAF to clear the error code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force a DPF regen using something like FORScan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I'm not 100% confident as to where these two parts are located and I've been unable to locate any documentation on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my engine with the cover off. I've circled what I believe is the EGR valve, you can just see its barcode sticker in the picture (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIEk7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;zoomed in&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3jZF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3jZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Focus 2008 TDCi 1.6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the EGR valve? If not, where is it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The advice seems to unanimously be to blank it. Is this legal? I couldn't find any UK/EU law on this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the MAF? If not, where is it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to disconnect the MAF temporarily?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other suggestions to try before contacting Uncle Ford?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that I'm a computer guy rather than a mechanic, so while I'm very confident in my technical ability to follow some instructions and &quot;repair&quot; these parts I'm not familiar with some terminology so go easy on me ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE (26/11/2015)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to get some better photos but the light was terrible today (UK weather).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As requested, the engine with no labels:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5gBo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5gBo.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confident that I've correctly identified the EGR valve based on the photos, but confirmation would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EGR Valve (top of picture):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91q77.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91q77.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think @Paulster2 might be right about the MAF. I've taken some photos of what I think is the inlet for it, but it's so dark I'm not sure if you can see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvfD2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MAF 1&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf7Ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MAF 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I've just found a YouTube video detailing cleaning the MAF on an '08 Focus and it seems I wasn't far off!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toAvK-Xj9Oo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toAvK-Xj9Oo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13366" LastEditorUserId="13366" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T16:50:38.453" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T23:13:37.720" Title="Ford Focus with error code P242F (DPF failure)" Tags="|ford|focus|egr|diesel-particulate-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T19:04:10.207" Score="4" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW E90 ( pre- facelift ) with light package . Currently my car is set so that the &quot; Coming Home &quot; function can by pressing the headlight flasher is switched off, press at ignition .&#xA;My question at this point is whether it is also possible simply to leave by encoding the light (assuming it was already dark when driving and accordingly ) until a few seconds after you complete the cars ? That would be a great functionality and the light would not only when you turn the ignition off and then turned on by the &quot; headlight flash &quot; again . Because someone knows advice? Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---------- Deutsch ----------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ich habe einen BMW E90 (Vor-Facelift) mit Lichtpaket. Momentan ist mein Auto so eingestellt, dass sich die &quot;Coming Home&quot; Funktion durch Betätigen der Lichthupe bei ausgeschaltener Zündung betätigen lässt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meine Frage an dieser Stelle ist nun, ob es auch möglich ist durch Codieren das Licht einfach anzulassen (vorausgesetzt es war beim Fahren schon dunkel und entsprechend an), bis einige Sekunden nach dem Abschließen den Autos? Das wäre eine super Funktionalität und das Licht müsste nicht erst beim Ausschalten der Zündung aus- und danach durch die &quot;Lichthupe&quot; wieder eingeschalten werden. Weiß da jemand Rat? Vielen Dank!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13372" LastEditorUserId="13372" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T19:57:25.170" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T19:57:25.170" Title="BMW E90: Coming Home automatically on darkness" Tags="|bmw|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2987" CreationDate="2015-11-25T21:26:02.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with Brian, that it isn't all about &quot;miles&quot; per se. Things like timing belts are going to degrade more with time than miles (but with both) so divide the 90K by average driving (12K per year). If you are close to that time period, go ahead and change the belt out. Interference engines are nothing to fool with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13375" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T21:26:02.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:50:32.690" Score="7" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Miata, i bought the car for 750$ as a project car. it had some body damage but i figured i would fix it. The car is mostly done now, but i have one major issue. The low beams in my passenger side headlight does not work, but the high beam does. The drivers side is OK both low and high beams. also the orange blinker light in the passenger side light is straight on and it does blink when i activate them. In the drivers side in the other hand, its not on and it only works when i activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13377" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T07:33:00.457" Title="Low beam not working in headlight" Tags="|electrical|headlight|miata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-26T03:25:13.333" Score="4" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just installed my first long block manufactured engine (360 in a 1987 Jeep j20). Got gas, spark and air. Engine turns over but will not hit to fire. Does a manufactured engine come with timing preset? How do I start the engine for the first time to set the timing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13378" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T00:49:10.017" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T00:49:10.017" Title="how do I crank a remanufactured engine for the first time?" Tags="|engine|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22750" CreationDate="2015-11-26T04:19:35.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i was you, i would replace the rotors when you replace the pads. It is better if you replace everything knowing that the car has 170k on it. I bet the rotors are not in the best shape with the weather either. I dont know your location, but if you live in a place where they put salt on the roads during the winter, then things will be rusted, so it would be better to replace the rotors when replacing the brake pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10164" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T04:19:35.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22807" CreationDate="2015-11-26T07:07:17.583" Score="5" ViewCount="12870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at oxygen sensors for my vehicle on rock auto and found large price discrepancies. I saw sensors ranging from $25 up to $100.  in general what do the more expensive sensors have that the cheaper ones don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here is one which fits my Mazda 626 for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C91I50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$19 by an American company named Walker&lt;/a&gt;,  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007XRAL02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a $24 NTK&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000VASMM2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$70 one from Bosch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:44:08.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T08:10:00.690" Title="judging oxygen sensor quality" Tags="|electrical|sensor|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22774" CreationDate="2015-11-26T07:13:26.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One method is to tent the vehicle with a tarp and then use and insect fogger spray under the tarp. This is used in areas with high numbers of poisonous insects by repair technicians who are tasked with repairing cars that have been little used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T07:13:26.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-26T08:06:02.840" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Ford Explorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I fired it up and the low beams weren't working so I opened the hood while they were still not working. My girl call me so I slammed the hood and BAM it started working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where to look and need help to fix it. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13326" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T13:46:33.140" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T13:46:33.140" Title="Low beams are acting weird" Tags="|ford|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22804" CreationDate="2015-11-26T09:29:37.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The prime suspects here would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a low-beam relay that is sticking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bad contact at the light switch/stalk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break in the low-beam wiring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with the relay since it is the easiest to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T09:29:37.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22790" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:21:27.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular problem has been a pain for many years in the industry, unfortunately there is no sure shot way of telling if the engine will hydro-lock on cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard Solution is to remove the spark plugs and vacuum out the water basically not taking any chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a few things which can be done to ascertain if its safe to crank the engine or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are in moving traffic with water level below your intake but above the silencer and your car stalls, you can push the car to a dry area and then crank it , it will take a few cranks but it should start in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if your car has been standing and water enters through silencer , same procedure as above, note that it should not be in water for too long probable a day or two with silencer underwater will not affect the car and its safe to crank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER , if water enters through the intake then you should Never try to crank the engine as it will definitely hydro-lock, removing the sparks and cranking is the best way to get rid of that water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T11:21:27.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22802" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:26:13.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word? &lt;em&gt;Nothing.&lt;/em&gt; I mean, a 4-wire O2 is going to be about the same no matter what it's made for. The connector may be different, but the guts are going to be pretty much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you really need to know what works well with your vehicle. For instance, Bosch (from my understanding) originated the O2 sensor. Their product should be above reproach. They work well in most vehicles. For some reason &lt;em&gt;they didn't work well in my 94 Camaro.&lt;/em&gt; This was a known thing amongst Camaro owners; it wasn't just internet hearsay. There are too many firsthand accounts of them going bad in our cars. The regular option were either ACDelco, Delphi, NTK, or (my favorite) Denso. These would last for a length of time you'd expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point is, don't be afraid of the cheaper sensors. Ones like Denso are much cheaper than Bosch, but should provide you with the same service life. I don't think I would trust ones which you don't recognize the name. These are probably Chinese knockoffs. While the Chinese &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be making decent O2's, their product quality/manufacturing practices have shown need for improvement. This is my opinion, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T11:26:13.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22800" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:34:50.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to static time it. Pop the #1 spark plug out. Bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC). As you are bringing it up to TDC, place your finger (or have someone else do it) over the spark plug hole. If you are coming up on TDC of the compression stroke, you should have a rush of air come out of the spark plug hole. If you don't feel this (it is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; noticeable), you are at the top of the exhaust stroke and will need to swing the crank over another 360° to come back up to TDC on the compression stroke. Pop the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing to. If it is pointing to where the #1 spark plug wire is, you are good to go. If you aren't anywhere close to it, you'll need to pull the distributor and re-time it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the rotor to be &lt;em&gt;straight up&lt;/em&gt; on the #1 cylinder. This will allow you to get it started. You'll want your timing light nearby so when it does fire, you can fine tune the timing. Ensure you do this rather quickly, as you need to run the engine up to 1800-2000 RPM for around 20 minutes right after startup for break-in. If you don't, you'll lay your cam out flat and destroy it. (I'm sure that part is in the break-in instructions for your long block.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T12:21:51.543" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T12:21:51.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22788" CreationDate="2015-11-26T12:44:52.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to take the vehicle VIN to a Ford dealership and ask them as they keep all of the codes. As long as you can prove it is your vehicle (registration should work fine) they'll give it to you for free. This is true of about any vehicle manufacturer. There may be a code on the radio itself. Give the dealership a call and ask what information they need, then provide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T12:44:52.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22754" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:05:48.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the second and third images, starting at the top and working to the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top row -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sun roof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Middle row -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Antilock Brakes (ABS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fog lights (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Window &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Window&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coupe Console - someone says it is &quot;Consumer for clock / radio&quot; (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ALIM/UCH - manual says &quot;common power&quot; (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third row -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interior lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cigarette lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Door locks (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Blank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Side view mirror defrost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fourth picture, I'm not sure what these are for. Hopefully someone else knows. It may be part of the Body Control Module (BCM). With all of the yellow wiring going into it, it could also be airbag related (assuming the yellow wires are actually going into it and not just under it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Fuses under passenger seat (4th picture) (left to right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big lavender thing - relay? for . . . (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;red 10amp - (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;red 10amp - (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yellow 20amp - arm console cigarette lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white 25amp - Automatic Parking Brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-02-15T23:37:02.303" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T23:37:02.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22802" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:30:21.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general what do the more expensive sensors have that the cheaper ones don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no functional difference; all 4-wire zirconia-based narrowbands should exhibit the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;useful voltage range 0.1 - 0.9 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stoichiometric AFR at 0.45 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low voltage = lean condition, high voltage = rich condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain brands may have a quicker warm-up time or response time to AFR changes compared to others, but the above-mentioned behavior will not change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the difference in price will be due to a few key factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Different supply chains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience this has a huge impact on the final price that you pay. Don't assume that Brand A and Brand B are comparable because you're buying them from the same online retailer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brand premium&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you pay for the name rather than the sensor. It's quite common to have the same sensor sold under different brand names (I've seen this with AC Delco and Denso).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build quality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that manufacturing tolerances and material quality can impact the response time and useful life of an O2 sensor. A better build will command higher costs that influences prices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intended operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 4-wire sensors should functionally be the same, but the location of the sensor will influence factors like operating temperature. A pre-cat O2 sensor located in the exhaust manifold will experience higher temperatures compared to one that is located in front of the catalytic converter. The design specifications for these two locations could drive differences in the materials and manufacturing process that are employed, and might explain why certain cars don't like certain sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T09:45:33.447" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T09:45:33.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-26T16:19:03.097" Score="2" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we have the cc of the engine, and its running speed, how can we calculate the mass of gasoline in milligrams sucked in each intake stroke and the mass of gas consumed in a given distance, based on its mass and volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T19:14:40.703" Title="How to calculate the amount of consumed gas?" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25162" CreationDate="2015-11-26T19:05:28.647" Score="3" ViewCount="5334" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, my dad's Suburban was running while sitting on a steep driveway with a low level of fuel in the tank, and the fuel pump suddenly cut out. Knowing that fuel pumps can wear out from heat when fuel level is low, we figured that the fuel pump motor had failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We dropped the fuel tank to replace the pump, and the new pump had a different wiring harness that required splicing the new connector into the car's electrical lines. We believe that we spliced these lines correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the fuel pump is not activating when turning the engine over. Normally, the pump can be heard when turning the key to 'On' and we've verified that there is no fuel pressure on the fuel rail. (the old fuel pump was also silent when it stopped running)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning we also replaced the fuel pump relay to no avail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other piece of information that may be useful is this:&#xA;When the pump stopped working initially, (before replacing the fuel pump) the engine would only crank for about a second then stop. After changing out the fuel pump, the engine now turns over without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure where to go from here. Thanks in advance for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T05:41:53.860" Title="03 Chevy Suburban Fuel Pump Failure" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|fuel-system|suburban|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2015-11-26T21:37:01.373" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like an O2 sensor. Search for info on o2 sensor diagnostics &amp;amp; &#xA;replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T21:37:01.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22813" CreationDate="2015-11-26T23:14:59.170" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about filling the tank, driving it however far and re-filling the tank. The greater the distance travelled, the more accurate the amount of consumption per unit of distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T23:14:59.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2015-11-27T00:36:18.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;7hp is a strong engine for a small mower. I have a 6.5hp and it is no problem cutting thick tall grass. You definitely have a problem. I'm guessing the engine is starving for fuel because it needs a good cleaning. Spraying down the throat of the carb or putting cleaners in your fuel WILL NOT HELP. Take the carb off and clean all jets and passageways. You can do it very easy. Check out youtube if necessary. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13386" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T00:36:18.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T05:50:10.393" Score="5" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2006 Honda Civic, about 90k miles, Automatic, new battery about 6 months ago. No issues before now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the last week, it has been starting weakly. By that I mean when I turn the key, it tries to turn over, but almost always immediately fails. I would say about 75% of the time, if you just try to cold start it, it won't go. But if I &quot;prime&quot; it (based on googling of the issue, I turn the key to where the AC and radio power on for 2 seconds, turn it off, and repeat 2x times) it will start up reliably so far. I fear eventually this start-up method won't be enough and something might fail completely. I had thought it was a weak fuel pump, but i'm not sure where to go from here. The contacts for the battery look clean and connected well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13389" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:47:14.507" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:47:14.507" Title="2006 Honda Civic, Automatic, Weak Start-up" Tags="|honda|civic|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:20:17.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi folks I just picked up 2015 civic with this Econ button. Just to check how effective this is I used it with couple of full tanks and couple with Econ switch of and I always fueled from the same gas station.&#xA;The result is this Econ does not help you at all in fuel economy I drove from home to work and back and no other use of vehicle. It gives me the same milage with Econ button on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13391" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T11:20:17.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22821" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:23:06.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine cranks when you turn the key but it doesn't fire? Is that what you are trying to say? If so, you need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. When to do this is after you have ran the engine. Keep the fuel pressure gauge on the Schreader valve for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I believe is happening is the anti-flowback is not stopping the fuel from going back to the tank when you shut the car down. This bleeds off the pressure and as such, your car doesn't start when you turn the key first thing. The anti-flowback valve is located in the pump. Only way to fix it is with a new pump in most vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could possibly be a leaking injector, but I'm doubting this because the engine will most often fire, but will behave as an engine which has been flooded (from the old carburetor days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T11:23:06.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2015-11-27T13:30:48.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 3 (three) seconds of idling you'd better off shutting the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/57794/calculating-engine-starter-s-energy-use&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/57794/calculating-engine-starter-s-energy-use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T13:30:48.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22831" CreationDate="2015-11-27T13:50:03.367" Score="6" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old car (but with electronic injection) that predates by far start/stop systems which are used nowadays to save fuel (turning off the engine brings savings after 3-5 seconds, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/57794/calculating-engine-starter-s-energy-use&quot;&gt;Calculating engine starter’s energy use&lt;/a&gt; ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it makes sense to start/stop my car manually when I expect more than 5-10 seconds idling? I noticed that starting the car when warm is almost instantaneous, like 2 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter motor may get additional wear, but after all I rarely hear of failing starter motors... it's a tough component anyway, and there is always enough time between idling to cool down the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For info: the starter motor of my car failed at the 181000 km mark. I still have to check, but very likely due to worn out brushes. This with normal use, no start/stop except sometimes in the last 20k km, so almost nothing. Increasing the start/stop cycles by let's say 5 (meaning 4 start/stops when idling per driving session) would have reduced its life to 30k km, not counting the remaining issues as pointed out in the comments. So, not worth at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2019-01-13T22:43:15.273" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T22:43:15.273" Title="Is manual start/stop good on older cars?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|starter|idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22826" CreationDate="2015-11-27T14:00:40.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start-stop on ANY car, old or new, is bad for the starter motor as it reduces its useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer motors are much more tolerant so the start/stop system does not seriously damage the motor but it surely will affect the longevity of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the second part of your question start/stopping for every 5 to 10 seconds depends on what engine your car has , if its a diesel engine then doing that procedure is actually less useful since most diesel engines consume extremely less fuel to idle (that is why you see most diesel locomotives are not turned off , they idle for like hours), start/stopping a diesel will consume more fuel that its saving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand for a petrol engine, you can perfectly do manual start stop when the engine is warm , not an issue but 10 seconds personally to me feels not worth switching on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T17:01:44.770" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T17:01:44.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22840" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:06:54.527" Score="3" ViewCount="15412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for the car to vibrate on the biting point when no gas is given?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I give enough gas it seems fine but not when I very slowly release the clutch and hold at the biting point. Is this an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10150" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:01:09.920" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T09:55:42.127" Title="Is it normal for the car to vibrate on the BITE when no gas is given in a manual transmission?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|vibration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13153" CreationDate="2015-11-27T16:18:37.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alto does not have the fuel reading on OBD instead you can calculate the consumption with the help of the MAF data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T16:18:37.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22826" CreationDate="2015-11-27T17:13:28.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for a fleet delivery service. Due to safety regulations all vehicles must be shut off at every delivery point. This equals up to 150 stops a day. The starter motors fail with regularity. In most cases 3 times or more  a year. Ignition switches about twice a year, and fly wheels every 2 years. While you won't see this type of abuse,stuff will wear out. The vehicles that have the engine off at idle are designed to do this with larger batteries to run accessories while the engine is off. They have larger starters and in some cases the starter is belt drive to eliminate the flywheel. The start feature is computer controlled so the ignition switch isn't involved. You will have to calculate the fuel savings over the parts and repair costs. Due to variations in fuel usage and  costs, repair costs I can't tell if you will save enough to offset the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T17:13:28.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="624" CreationDate="2015-11-27T20:16:40.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's behind the glove compartment to the right there is a black box 2screws take the screws off the black box. Pull it out and there's another small black box its the wiper control mod. That's your problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13396" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T20:16:40.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T20:29:39.003" Score="7" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with my wipers. The motor was junk, so I replace the motor. I bolted it back on, plugged it back in, and it still doesn't work. I unplugged it and pushed the button for the wipers and I heard the click behind the glove compartment. I pulled the glove compartment out unscrewed two bolts on the big black box and the wiper control module is just behind that and it seems to be working properly at least it seems. I plugged the wiper motor back in and went to use my wipers. The clicking stopped, so I checked my fuse and everything was ok. Every time I try to use my wipers it doesn't work because the wiper control module doesn't click. The wiper control module only clicks when I have the wiper motor unplugged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what my problem is here, but when I plug in the motor, I have no power. I unplugged the motor and I have 12 volts at the source. I plugged it in and I have no power. Is my control module bad? Or is the blinker switch bad? I took the motor back to O'Reilly's and had it checked; the motor is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13396" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:51:13.087" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T12:31:33.827" Title="Problem with wipers on 1993 Ford F150 302 v8 5.0 liter" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|windshield-wipers|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T23:28:50.700" Score="4" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;My crv passenger window goes up only on the door switch and neither up or down on the master switch located on the dashboard.  Any ideas, I have got a new window regulator mechanism, another door switch.  Seems there is power to the door switch. Can't explain it as the regulator worked but sluggish so that why we got a new one.  Doesn't explain these symptoms NOW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13397" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T02:24:40.777" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T07:50:38.637" Title="Honda CR-V 2001 window winding fault" Tags="|honda|power-windows|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22835" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:55:18.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of these symptoms is failure of the main window switch. It is not common for the door switches to fail. Water intrusion into the motor units is common on this model. It usually presents as slow movement at first, followed by failure. During the period of time that it is moving slowly it is drawing more power which stresses the switches. In this case the fact that is moves rules out problems in the wiring, power supply and ground connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two testing approaches are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use a voltmeter and a wiring diagram to test for power and ground at the switches and motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Replace parts one at a time until the symptoms are gone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T07:50:38.637" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T07:50:38.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22788" CreationDate="2015-11-28T02:24:26.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can call to dealership and provide them registration no. They will provide you   code.&#xA;Some dealships paste code sticker in glove box or  audio guide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T02:24:26.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T14:18:39.133" Score="1" ViewCount="4161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have already bled brakes and changed the master cylinder. What would be the next step to try to fix the brakes. The brakes still go to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13399" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T08:39:49.360" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T08:39:49.360" Title="brakes have been bled still go to floor" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-11-28T17:12:31.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely, the clutch just isn't broken in yet (or bedded, for that matter). You need to not ride the clutch at all, don't over heat it, and don't try not to prolong it's usage during this period. It's common for a clutch to have some small amount of jidder while in this phase, so don't be surprised. Once it becomes evenly worn and broken in, you'll probably notice the bite becomes much smoother. Don't expect this to happen until around a 1000 miles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T17:12:31.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T20:38:53.030" Score="7" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car I have is a 2001 Buick century. I have a after market push to start kit. It came with a main unit and the diagram shows that a brown wire is for a constant power when the engine is on. And a white wire that needs a non constant power. the diagram says a non constant power when engine is started it's not hot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13405" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T20:56:49.517" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T14:22:08.677" Title="Finding a constant and non constant power wire in a car" Tags="|ignition|buick|aftermarket-upgrade|century|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8684" CreationDate="2015-11-29T01:08:54.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct maintenance software is called Lexia, and is regularly available for authorized service stations only. Lexia is more commonly distributed as part of a larger software package called DiagBox. Both are suitable for unlocking the AUX-port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need the Lexia ODB2 Diagnostic Cable assembly, which is usually comprised of three different cables: the ODB2 to 30-pin converter (with an LED in the plug), the 30-pin to 16-pin converter, and the 16-pin to USB-converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13407" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T01:08:54.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T02:32:56.350" Score="4" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;The driver's side parking light on my 1991 Volvo 240 is not working. Bulb is ok.&#xA;Turn signal and head lights working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic says it is most likely a corroded wire inside an &quot;assembly&quot; or &quot;harness&quot; in the engine compartment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would I need to do or have replaced?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How expensive could it be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other issues with this car, so it might not be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13408" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T20:50:24.503" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T20:54:17.917" Title="Parking Light on 1990 Volvo 240 Not Working," Tags="|electrical|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22839" CreationDate="2015-11-29T04:43:56.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the car on and press the brake to the floor.  When you release the brake-- listen for a kind of hollow wind sucking in from under the dash.  If you hear a hollow sucking noise it means your Power Brake Booster is failed and you need to replace your Power Brake Booster.  The noise can be faint  or close to none at all but if your pedal is still going to floor after changing the Master Cylinder then it is likely that the Power Booster is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T04:43:56.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4024" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:01:08.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bad Power Brake Booster will also affect the pedal action.  As you use your brakes you are allowed to pressure your brakes to stop but they will not retract (open) because you either have a clog in one of the brake lines or you need a new Master Cylinder, Or you may need a New Power Brake Booster.  Another tell tale sign of faulty M/C or faulty PBB:--  You may be able to release the Brake tension by loosening the bleeder valve at the brake hydraulic box which is likely to be within 18 inches of your Master Cylinder.  Look for a harness of metal tube lines.  If you see this harness then look for a bleeder valve somewhere on the hydraulic box body and crack the bleeder valve just a bit.  if you remain quiet you should hear the stuck brake pistons dis-engaging with momentary clicks.  when you have done this re-tighten the bleeder valve when the noise stops.  After you have done this your brakes will be loose again but you will still need to change one of the latter auto parts.  You can also choose to rebuild your own caliper but if the piston is really pitted you should consider a new caliper and possibly the rotor.  If your rotor was heating up it may have warped and will cause a shaking.  new calipers and pads will not stop the shaking.  look at it this way, after a new caliper, rotor and pads your only options would be:  Your inner &amp;amp; outer Tie Rods, Wheel Balance, or front end alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T19:48:56.557" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T19:48:56.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2566" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:12:06.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have Shoes with drums on the back it could be that the star wheel adjustment needs to be adjusted and the noise you hear might be the sound of the rear shoes shifting forward just a bit at almost the very last second  because there is not enough tension between your rear shoes and the rear drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T05:12:06.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2015-11-29T05:16:58.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if it sounds like you're grinding rocks it's probably because your CV joint has gone bad and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T05:16:58.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T06:02:07.173" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I step on the brake pedal I hear a hissing sound and the pedal goes all the way to the floor and the brakes barely stop the car. This doesn't happen every time but most of the time. Any ideas of what this could be? My husband just put new brakes on the car right before this started happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13411" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T12:27:55.533" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T21:09:12.700" Title="1995 Ford Thunderbird" Tags="|ford|brakes|thunderbird|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T06:08:18.080" Score="4" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain the easiest way to remove a Power Brake Booster from a 1994 Honda Accord Wagon lx.  everything has been dismantled.  the hard part here is the removal only part.  there isn't enough space to pull the booster out and away from the car.  It looks like my air intake manifold is in the way and I may have to remove my AIM to get the job done but I don't want to do that and so in the meantime I'll cut-off the latch bolt from the old booster to see if I can gain some space to move the Booster around and slide it out.  If someone knows an easier way Please let us know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T12:35:56.517" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T16:24:52.710" Title="Power Brake Booster Removal" Tags="|honda|accord|brake-booster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21255" CreationDate="2015-11-29T06:40:55.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the motor mounts sounds like your may have a cracked one but it could also be that you have a vacuum check valve attached to your Power Brake Booster that has gotten old and needs replacement, or there may be a vacuum leak elswhere check your vacuum hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T06:48:22.990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T06:48:22.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24047" CreationDate="2015-11-29T07:13:55.350" Score="5" ViewCount="6113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Nissan Almera 1.6L MTX ( nearly identical to the Sentra sold in the US ) which has developed a problem with low idle, occasional stalling at stop lights, what seems to be misfires and occasionally getting the hiccups, where the rpms will start bouncing between 400 - 900 rpm until it goes away on it's own after a while.  This seems to happen only after the engine has reached operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I was sure that it must be an air leak or IAC problem, but when I shorted the 14 pin Nissan consult to flash any codes, it came up with a Camshaft Position Sensor error.  &lt;em&gt;I cleared the code a few times and it keeps coming back.&lt;/em&gt;  The CSPS is in the distributor, so I opened it up and saw that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9FbD-oWWqI&amp;amp;list=PL5ZkAEzEbJ_BP6YHcuIST9XrXrRyZmdxT&amp;amp;index=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oil is leaking from the internal O-ring&lt;/a&gt; ( not my video ).  I'm guessing that maybe the internal bearing might be worn out also, causing it to occasionally stick at low rpm resulting in misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while there's clearly a problem with the distributor, I'm still a bit hesitant to drop the money to replace it.  The reason is because when the engine starts getting these hiccups and idle problems, if I turn on the A/C that causes the idle to stabilize around 900 rpms.  However, if I then give it some gas it goes back to either a low idle or hiccupping, until I turn the A/C off then on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 29/12/15&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got a scan tool and some new info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dn3E5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dn3E5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This capture is at about 788 rpm I think with no loads.  The first thing is that it reads lean at idle most of the time, but at 2k rpm it oscillates between rich and lean together with the O2 signal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that stood out to me was the IAC percentage open which seems really high at 78%.  If I turn on the headlights, it maxes out at 100% open:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjrPN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjrPN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the lights back off, it drops back immediately to 88%, then slowly returns to 78%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned the lights back on, and once the temp hits 97*C and the radiator fan comes on the idle will drop to the 600's, and start bouncing.  If I start turning the wheel back and forth to activate the power steering pump I can force the engine to stall.  Which seems odd to me since there is a separate PS idle up switch, same as for the air conditioner.  Yet when I turn on the AC, even with the lights and radiator fan already on, the idle up works and it goes up to 850rpm and everything stabilizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RHe9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RHe9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also notice that the injector pulse jumps 50% and the duty cycle almost doubles, even though there's been only a small increase in RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sooooooo, here's what I'm thinking.  This car actually has what seems to be two IAC type devices sitting one on top of the other, one called the &lt;code&gt;Auxiliary air control&lt;/code&gt; and the other called the &lt;code&gt;Fast idle control device&lt;/code&gt;.  I figure the maxed out one is the primary IAC, and maybe it's partially clogged and that's why the ECU is opening it so much.  Maybe the radiator fan and power steering idle-up switch are connected to this one, which is already maxed out and that's why problems start when they come on, while the AC idle up is maybe connected to the second one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this could account for what seems to be a lean condition most of the time, or if that could be a separate problem of it's own?  The thing is that this problem started gradually and it would seem highly coincidental to me to develop both a clogged IAC and an intake leak at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened the idle air screw 3/4 of a turn and now IAC is showing 10% open at idle with no loads, idle stable at 750 rpm, and I can put on the lights, defroster, fan and radiator fan, and swing steering wheel back and forth as much as I like without any problem.  I can't force a stall like I could before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is idle with no loads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkQ1G.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkQ1G.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is with everything going, lights, defrost, rad fan and cabin fan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XGkD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XGkD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2 1/1/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just found in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://avtolib.ru/li/nissan/ec_ga16.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GA16DE manual pg 59&lt;/a&gt; that IACV-AAC/V at idle should be between 0%-40%. ( There's a list of engine control reference values starting on page 58. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H4Svu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H4Svu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some of these engine's there is also a Fast Idle Cam ( pg 55 ) which I guess can open the throttle plate, I'll have to go check mine later and see if it has one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lC8x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lC8x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T11:31:10.983" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T11:31:10.983" Title="A/C Temporarily Cures Low, Hiccupping Idle" Tags="|nissan|idle|misfire|distributor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="23" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2015-11-29T07:33:53.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;this sounds like a problem with the Fast Idle Air Control.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe this video will help you just to give you the basic idea of the Idle Air Control.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T02:41:20.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T02:41:20.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2015-11-29T09:28:46.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wider tire does not give more traction because of the width of it. Surface area does not impact friction. Friction is calculated by force of the contact (in this case weight) and the friction coefficient. They use a different compound for the wider tires that require the size, so the sidewalls can support the vehicle. &#xA;Having a wider tire will increase chance of hydroplaning. You have less pressure with wider tires and it is more difficult to break the surface tension of the water.&#xA;Here's a link detailing the tire and it's friction.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae200.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae200.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13414" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T09:28:46.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T10:11:18.400" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right stack exchange forum to post this in or not, hoping it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Toro lawn tractor which is having issues starting. I have been using it fine for the last few weeks since I purchased it second hand and it has always started easily. Then today I went to start it and all I hear from under the dash is a buzzing type sound coming from the starter relay. I have taken the battery out which is a 12v battery and put it on the charger, the charger says it is fully charged even though when I put my multimeter on it it only shows 10v. When I try shorting out the poles on the starter relay bypassing it and manually trying to start the starter motor nothing happens other than a few sparks between the poles. I don't know if the battery needs replacing, needs a different charger attached, or if I need to take it into a repair joint to have the starter relay replaced. Any advice is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13415" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:39:36.233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:39:36.233" Title="Lawn tractor won't start" Tags="|engine|electrical|lawnmower|toro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22854" CreationDate="2015-11-29T12:31:51.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue is most likely the battery ... well, I'll even go a little stronger than that ... you battery is &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fully charged 12v battery should be around 13.1-13.5vdc when fully charged. As it gets older, the &quot;full&quot; voltage decreases and it will no longer provide enough juice to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would test this theory by placing a known good 12v battery in it's place to start the engine. If it starts just fine, you know this is the issue. I'm pretty sure replacing it with a new one will solve your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T12:31:51.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2015-11-29T15:59:00.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can be a lot of fun to track down electrical parasitic culprits?  Had one battery draw that caused soft brake light bulb contacts to  re-form into concave shape from convex shape touching brass wiring contacts.  Caused from too much bulb heat? Never-ever saw brake lights on while parked with foot off brake either.  Weird! Did track down to faulty brake light switch and likely bulb defect.  Some electrical problems are complex, not singular.  Makes twice as hard to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE: Many brake light switches do not turn off power with ignition.  Changed bulbs and switch to repair.  No re-occurrence of problem. Shook head twice with that one and was easy to miss at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Could try battery disconnect switch or disconnecting Negative battery cable as temporary easy fix &quot;solution?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T15:59:00.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22849" CreationDate="2015-11-29T16:24:52.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to do this without removing the intake manifold. Move all the hoses, wires and cables out of the way. Move the clutch reservoir and bracket if it has a manual transmission. Pull the booster out and then rotate it clockwise about 90 degrees so that the operating rod is facing the fender. It is a tight squeeze but it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T16:24:52.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22851" CreationDate="2015-11-29T20:39:01.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your CPS code won't explain the hunting idle; the symptoms point to a lean air-fuel mixture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it doesn't stutter at low idle with the engine cold because the fuel management is designed to enrich the AFR while the engine is warming up (aka cold-start enrichment)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;turning the AC on helps because it induces an additional load on the engine, which makes it demand more air flow that the fuel trims can then compensate for. Without the additional air flow the amount of unmetered air is hard for the fuel trims to compensate, resulting in hunting idle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to be flying blind without a scan tool but the top suspects in my book would be an intake leak, malfunctioning idle-air control or an underreading MAF. It seems from your description that the O2 sensor responds well enough to changes in load so I'm inclined to think that it is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing the distributor should help smoothen out the idle quality. I'm not convinced that it will solve the hunting idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T20:39:01.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22862" CreationDate="2015-11-29T20:57:42.030" Score="1" ViewCount="7521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just brimmed my 2003 Opel Agila to the tank (35 litres) with regular unleaded from Tesco (large supermarket). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way home, it just seemed to be completely gutless, and struggle a lot more when driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that I have put bad fuel in my car? Is there a way for me to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2020-10-28T12:24:49.763" Title="How do I check if I have bad fuel in my car?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22860" CreationDate="2015-11-29T23:21:20.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fuel test procedure and kit (without sending out to a lab) involves 3 steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first involves lowering a probe to the bottom of the tank with a paste that changes color if it touches moisture. The probe almost resembles a bicycle cable in a clear sheathe. This requires the probe and the color changing paste. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second involves retrieving a sample of the gasoline. Place the gasoline in a graduated cylinder. Add some amount of windshield washer fluid. Cork the sample and shake the tube. Wait until it settles. Compare how much gasoline you put in to how much is left after everything settles. This shows how much alcohol is in the fuel. It should be no more than 10%. All this test needs is a graduated cylinder that can survive gasoline. This is the easiest thing to acquire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third involves retrieving a sample of the gasoline. This tests the volatility of the gas known as Ried Vaper Pressure and requires another special testing tool. Chill the gasoline and tool on ice for 30 min. Pour the fuel into the tool and close it. Place the tool into hot water for 10 min and measure the water temperature. Read the pressure from the gauge on the tool. Compare the pressure and temperature to a table that comes with the tool. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only #2 can be done without super special tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T23:21:20.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T01:20:28.110" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a surprise today when my 2012 Audi Q5 failed its smog emission test in Nevada. I've never had a car fail and is surprising for a 3 year-old Audi. I was told that it was part of the oxygen sensor and that my mixture was running too rich with higher RPMs than allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smog place also told me that if its an issue related to passing smog, there is a federal law that states that a dealership &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; fix the issue under warranty under 80K miles or 5 years of the car being new. Is that true? I've never heard of that and I want to be armed with information when I go into the dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a dealer required to fix a car for free when it fails smog like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13421" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T03:34:16.037" Title="2012 Audi Failed Smog - Will Dealer Repair for Free?" Tags="|audi|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T01:32:02.383" Score="3" ViewCount="4366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lights all flicker.  When I an in the cabin the head lights flicker. I want to test my fuses with a circuit tester. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the engine be running or will I be blown away? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help, I'm a newbie to car electronics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13422" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T17:49:01.633" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T17:49:01.633" Title="How do I test fuses with a circuit tester?" Tags="|electrical|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T01:50:22.943" Score="7" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was on my way to work and car started to run rough stumble and check engine light started to flash. Immediately turned around limped home about 3 miles. Changed plugs and swapped some old coils around. Still idles low and strong gas smell from exhaust. Any ideas need my car for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13423" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T12:14:28.570" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T21:16:25.730" Title="02 Mustang GT 4.6" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1593" CreationDate="2015-11-30T03:00:07.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;to check fins for stoppage use a water hose while engine is running and normal temp--spray water onto radiator and watch to see which tubes do not evaporate hose water--tubes that are not stopped up will dry up quicker because hot water from engine is running though them while the stopped up ones will not evaporate--normally these are the lower part of radiator--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13425" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T03:00:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2015-11-30T03:03:41.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;to check fins for stoppage use a water hose while engine is running and normal temp--spray water onto radiator and watch to see which tubes do not evaporate hose water--tubes that are not stopped up will dry up quicker because hot water from engine is running though them while the stopped up ones will not evaporate--normally these are the lower part of radiator--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13425" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T03:03:41.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22863" CreationDate="2015-11-30T03:34:16.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The US federal warranty is years or 24 months on most emission parts and 5 years or 50k miles on the computer and catalyst.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www3.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/pubs/420f15035.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www3.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/pubs/420f15035.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is likely not covered under the federally mandated warranty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not to say it could not be covered under a manufacturer warranty. Check the warranty documents that came with car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T03:34:16.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T09:55:28.627" Score="6" ViewCount="2647" Body="&lt;p&gt;The central locking in my '06 Ford Focus has stopped working. I can put the key into the door and lock and unlock the car, but I can't use the fob on the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What I tried:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried to put a new battery in the key. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new battery didn't solve the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then tried reprogramming the key.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used the method of putting the key in and turning it from position 0 to 2 four times and then pressing a key. This seemed to tell me that the key is working as it bleeped when I pressed the key fob. It still doesn't let me lock and unlock the car though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I looked for the mysterious fuse 63. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the back of my fuse board, there are no fuses and it doesn't look like the fuse boards in the video so gave up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My manual said to look on the passenger-side fuse board for the central locking relay. It should be fuse 120.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My fuses only go up to about 80 so I gave up on that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fh6a895PeA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video online&lt;/a&gt; which does show my fuse board. If you skip to 2:50 it lists fuses 55 and 77 as relating to the central locking. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both fuses seemed fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Can anyone recommend anything else I can try?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13427" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T15:36:22.590" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T15:36:22.590" Title="'06 Ford Focus Central Locking Failure" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|locks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22794" CreationDate="2015-11-30T11:39:38.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update March 2016&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still no errors regarding the DPF.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Had an issue with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23701/ford-focus-engine-cuts-out-at-3000-rpm/24983#24983&quot;&gt;engine cutting out at high revs&lt;/a&gt; after this which I have also solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 21st Dec '15&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fitted the blanking plate this weekend and although the error didn't clear immediately it did after a short drive and hasn't come back after a few days of driving. Fingers crossed that was it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original post&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after several hours under the bonnet this weekend I can answer the questions above in the hope that this is useful to anyone else suffering from DPF issues with a Ford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, that is the EGR valve. The piece you can see with the barcode is the stepper motor, and the valve is directly underneath.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't see anything to suggest this is illegal in the UK. The consensus seems to be that on a diesel engine nobody will notice/care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The MAF is actually under the label in the original diagram. See the updated one below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes it is safe to disconnect it. The ECU will complain, but it doesn't cause any harm to the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the updated diagram labeling the parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vu6aL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vu6aL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR valve was covered in a thick black gunk which I removed with a strong degreaser (don't put it on the stepper motor!) and gave it a shot of WD40 to make it smooth. I also gently cleaned the MAF using some MAF cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unfortunately&lt;/strong&gt; this has not solved the issue for me and the error is still occurring. I have now ordered a blanking plate like the one shown below and will fit this next to see if the error is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Gf8w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Gf8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this will do it otherwise I guess I'm off to the garage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13366" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T10:08:07.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T12:58:38.310" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Nissan sentra. MESA remote start installed 2 weeks ago. It all works fine. However, last night stopped at light, went to go, and it's like neutral and the engine derates. However I don't think this has anything to do with the remote system. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13429" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T18:41:41.883" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T18:41:41.883" Title="While in Drive, transmission failed to engage after stopping at light" Tags="|automatic-transmission|nissan|sentra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22864" CreationDate="2015-11-30T17:32:01.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would test with a test light, not a circuit tester.  A test light uses the car's battery, a circuit tester has its own battery and basically test for connectivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you look at the fuses, one side will be input and the other side output.  If the fuse is good, you will have voltage at both sides, if the fuse is blown, you will only have voltage at the input side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;connect the clip to ground (unpainted part of the body, bolt that goes through the body, dash frame, basically anything metal) and touch it to the sides of the fuse.  On a 'push in' fuse, you can touch the terminals through the top of the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe the issue is a fuse.  With fuses, they are either good and it works, or they blow and it does not work.  The only thing fuse related that would cause flickering is if the fuse is loose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at grounds or your headlight switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T17:32:01.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22813" CreationDate="2015-11-30T19:14:40.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a thought of a way to determine what you are looking for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your injectors are rated for a certain flow at a certain PSI.  Most cars have a Fuel Pressure Regulator to keep this pressure constant relative to the pressure in the manifold.  You should be able to find this flow rating for your vehicle's injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a way to 'watch' how long the injector is open.  This is going to happen is the millisecond range, I'm thinking an arduino using the injector power wire as an input, constantly polling and recording/outputting changes.  Not sure if the arduino would be fast/accurate enough.  The car is 12v and the arduino needs 5v, so you would need to drop the voltage somehow and use a diode so your reading doesn't effect injector performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a flow rate and how long it is open, you can calculate how much fuel is injected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T19:14:40.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12380" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:27:40.257" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the perfect world, you just slide a wrench on the O2 sensor and it comes out.  Unfortunately since its located in a &quot;hostile&quot; environment (lots of heat, lots of water and potential corrosion underneath) it typically gets pretty stuck, though most people eventually &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have success getting it off.  Careful not to start stripping it with that open ended wrench, however.  Or you may not have room for a wrench, or the right size of wrench, in which case use a socket instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/39-diy/40903-how-replace-rear-oxygen-sensor-2004-honda-accord-lx.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few people&lt;/a&gt;, it won't budge cold, but they just run the engine for 10-15 minutes and try it again and it budges (uses the exhaust to heat it up, careful not to burn yourself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to slide an O2 sensor &quot;special socket&quot; onto it, give it a normal crank. O2 special sockets have a groove cut out from them to go around the wires.  But be careful not to crank too hard and start stripping your bolt.  Some people report good luck with these, and there are some quality ones out there (you may be able to rent them from your local auto parts store).  Sometimes these &quot;grooved&quot; sockets, for very stuck sensors, start 'splaying' and/or stripping the bolt, in which case, stop cranking on them and try something else.  Some people have success using them even with extra leverage, while for a few it ends up stripping the bolt, so its unclear what exactly that point is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not condoning the Tekton brand here, per se, just showing some example sockets:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzIcY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;special&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HX2Fn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;special socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option: leverage&#xA;Basically you're probably going to want to get a &quot;real&quot; socket onto it.  You want either a 6 sided socket (impact socket is even better but may not be required, non deep socket is nice but deep work as well), or a 6 sided box wrench, the exact size needed (7/8 and 22mm seem to both work, oddly).  To get the socket on, cut off the wired end of the sensor or break it off with a hammer, or saw it off (above the threads of course) then you should be able to put your socket on.  Now you can use a breaker bar or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/2210/4157&quot;&gt;cheater bar&lt;/a&gt; and crank.  You can whack the &quot;far&quot; end of it (leverage end) with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/12382/4157&quot;&gt;hammer&lt;/a&gt; (remember &quot;lefty loosy&quot; like normal), or even hit your breaker bar &quot;far end&quot; with a hammer, or attach a second wrench to the end of your breaker bar for even more leverage.  Most advice seems to be that a &quot;jerk&quot; thrust (or hit with hammer) is more effective than just leaning into it.  Pull don't push the lever.  You can also combine this with applying penetrating oil first.  &quot;Rocking&quot; it back and forth (alternate tighten then loosen) might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-a-stuborn-nutbolt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helpful&lt;/a&gt;.  If you can fit get impact wrench on it, that might work as well (only impact wrench on the 6 sided socket, not the special O2 sockets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is penetrating oil.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vj5JetmVx6s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it suggests to spray it on while the exhaust &quot;is somewhat hot&quot; (and then apply leverage).  Some spray it on once an hour for two hours.  Some let it sit overnight.  Possibly spray it on then turn the engine on, let it heat up, spray it again, cool down, that type of thing, anything to try and help it seep in.  Tap it with a ball-peen hammer to try and create some space for the oil to get in.  All while spraying and/or trying some leverage on it.  You'll want to wire brush it clean as well so the lubricant can get access more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of penetrating oil strength, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/27429-Please-confirm-MW-article-on-Penetrating-Oil/page2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one study&lt;/a&gt; showed this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;No Oil used .................................. 516 pounds&#xA;WD-40 ................................... ...... 238 pounds&#xA;PB Blaster ................................... .. 214 pounds&#xA;Liquid Wrench ................................127 pounds&#xA;Kano Kroil ................................... .. 106 pounds&#xA;50% ATF - 50% Acetone mix............53 pounds&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though anecdotally Kroil was still preferred in that thread to the ATF mixture.  Also mentioned but not tested &quot;mouse milk&quot; (its users recommended an overnight soak), brake fluid (note, bad for paint), straight ATF (automatic transmission fluid, also bad for paint), etc.  Note Liquid Wrench smells better than PB Blaster, and is about as easy to purchase, and be careful, ATF/Acetone is said to be flammable.  Also heard good things about sea foam deep creep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is (instead of using just normal exhaust heat) to heat up around the threads (the body around the sensor) with a torch (preferably oxy acetlyne or MAPP which burn hotter than propane).  When that's hot crank it with leverage.  Or heat up the threads of the sensor itself till its cherry red, let it cool, then try leverage.  Or apply penetrating oil, heat, apply penetrating oil, cool, heat again, try leverage, or heat just one side of it, etc.  Driving it 30 miles might get it hot &quot;enough&quot; (as heating it up would), as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all of those fail you may want to try some of the more aggressive techniques &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-a-stuborn-nutbolt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and in its comments (ex: wax, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1330131-rusted-stuck-part-shootout-dry-ice-vs-crc-freeze-off-vs-acetone-atf-poultice-vs-pb-blaster.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry ice&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you strip the bolt you may be able to use an &quot;extractor bolt set&quot; or its like to still get leverage onto the stripped bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Putting on replacement&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it's out, you can either clean your old O2 sensor (if you didn't destroy it on its way out) and reinstall it, or install a new one (most common is replacement with a new one, especially since you may have been forced to destroy your old one to get it out).  Check if the new one's threads have come with some thread anti-seize compound on it (bit of dark goop on them).  If it does you're good to go, if not you may want to buy some anti-seize and put it on the new threads, but be careful not to put any on the sensor itself, just the threads (also don't touch the sensor end itself with bare hands).  Also you may want to clean out the newly exposed receiver threads (to remove rust and corrosion) before inserting your new sensor, for instance with a thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-12230-Oxygen-Sensor-Thread/dp/B000XETMW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chaser&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you insert the new one, screw it in before attaching the electrical fastener end so that it is &quot;free spinning&quot; while you screw it, then attach the electrical side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before this all you can &quot;test&quot; your current O2 sensor, saw this tip &quot;Matt's Shop You would test the 02 sensor BEFORE  cutting the cord. It is so simple to test them. An open ground,dead. if it doesnt heat up, dead, use a 12volt garden tractor bulb holder with alligator wires to test the wires to the 02 sensor first. 90 percent of 02 failures is corroded wires. They cannot be repaired, ever.&quot; by &quot;RC Hobbyist extreme&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a community wiki feel free to add your own tips here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T04:30:59.127" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T04:30:59.127" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-11-30T22:27:40.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T00:28:08.697" Score="3" ViewCount="6406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander V6 4wd with 165,000 miles. And right now I am burning a lot of oil.  About 1 quart per 300-500 miles (under normal use).  Going on long trips burns an excessive amount of oil, I can burn through two to three quarts on a 400-600 mile road trip. I have not noticed any oil leaking out under  the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced brakes, rotors, the muffler, flex pipe, and 2 frozen catalytic converters over the years, but I haven't had to mess with the engine much besides paying for a tune-up where all the spark plugs were replaced and a new Oxygen sensor was installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if this is something I can take a crack at or if I'll have to take it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13435" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T00:33:21.457" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T17:39:59.717" Title="Burning a lot of oil. Need tips to reduce!" Tags="|toyota|oil-leak|highlander|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22893" CreationDate="2015-12-01T02:37:12.763" Score="4" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Nissan Altima has some rust on the metal brake lines.  Is there a way to tell when they should be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T11:43:44.417" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:19:18.530" Title="How can you tell when rusted metal brake lines should be changed?" Tags="|brakes|nissan|rust|altima|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17112" CreationDate="2015-12-01T03:04:34.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check with the dealer, I have 2011 cruz and have had similar issues with it. I used my scan tool and oscilloscope to find that the ECM had my coils out of time. I suspected something else must be causing this. I eventually got tired of complaining to them. They called me up and said they would put an ECM in it and see if that would fix since I'd called Chevy and even emailed them my data. ECM was replaced and the car runs fine now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fuel trims are the first thing you need to look at. Those are negative. Which means the ECM is retarding the flow of fuel because there is too much in the fuel mixture. A rich mixture could definitely lead to the symptoms you're describing. What is causing your fuel trims to act like that is a whole different diagnosis. I would check that out first, because if you have one problem you can't fix all others and gain a good understanding of what is going on.&#xA;Your short term fuel trims should fluctuate quite a bit, but not in huge margins. -5 to +5 is a bit off for a 2011. I usually see those in older vehicles. If you'd like to see a good video on diagnosis of fuel trims, there is a YouTube channel called Shrodingers Box. He does an excellent job of explaining the science and methodology of how it works and how to use it to figure things out. You'd be extremely surprised how many times I've diagnosed a vehicle just based on fuel trim and o2 data. You need to do injector pulse testing, timing testing, fuel pressure testing as well as using testing your coils to make sure they are firing hot enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve this by using an oscilloscope. You can measure your injector pulse timing, crank position, and coil firing with it to make sure it's working cohesively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with the easy stuff. Check your vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Check fuel pressure for drops and spikes. You could use a low amp probe to check your coils to see if they are delivering proper amperage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your spark plugs and see how they look. They can be a good visual representation of how the engine is running.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a difficult question to answer over the internet, but hopefully I've pointed you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T11:16:19.267" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T11:16:19.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T07:39:02.553" Score="4" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had new upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods replaced and an alignment on my front end of my 4x4 bronco done.  As I drove it further I noticed a grinding sound as I drove. Also, when I went to apply brakes for a turn then pressed the gas the rpm's went up and the truck didn't move. Then it jerked and started to go forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could be the cause of this? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can it be fixed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you the hubs on the 4x4 don't work but still drove better then it does now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13438" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T11:45:55.620" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T11:45:55.620" Title="Ford Bronco doesn't drive right after front end work" Tags="|ford|wheels|alignment|driving|bronco|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T11:46:58.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T07:45:46.373" Score="11" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, for the most part, I know how an engine works. I understand how a car converts liquid fuel to physical power, and most of the concepts behind the operation of a vehicle. Recently, i've begun to love messing with cars, and have noticed that with my technical mind, I could hopefully learn to be a competent mechanic. My dad was one of the best mechanics I've known, and I enjoyed learning from him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I had no direction, but from a quick Google, I read about quite a few people who either completely disassembled and reassembled cars because of self interest or because their parents tasked them with the job. Many say it's where they started and I'd like to buy a cheap, older car, truck or motorcycle to disassemble and reassemble. Can anyone think of a better way to learn? Is it okay if I come here to ask questions on the reassembly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can't seem to find any tags appropriate, and can't create any, as I don't have a high enough reputation, but if anyone knows any, feel free to edit my question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T04:47:08.190" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T19:38:41.920" Title="How would I go about becoming a mechanic?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22883" CreationDate="2015-12-01T09:33:54.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people will tell you that a Tech School is the way to go, and in a way they're right. Schools like Rosedale, UTI, Lincoln Technical all teach courses that can take you from shadetree mechanic to fully certified and job ready.&#xA;Working on one car is a great project, but it will not prepare you at all for working as a technician in a real shop. &#xA;I've found that you need the following to be proficient in the automotive field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LOTS of experience with many makes and models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Formal training from a mastertech or school&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mechanically sound mindset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drive to learn EVERYTHING (Not just how to monkey wrench bolts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as somewhere to start, I would start with a tech school. You could try to find a job at a local shop, but most times you'll end up cleaning the shop up and nothing else. Tech School also provides you with guaranteed job opportunity as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally started working at a performance and tuning shop 10 years ago and later decided to get a job at Honda. They actually sent me to Honda's UTI program and I was able to gain a much wider knowledge base through that. In addition to that all of my certifications were free.&#xA;In the end though, the choice is yours. I've met guys that make $30 an hour that have never been to school, they just spent 20 years learning and working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T09:33:54.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22889" CreationDate="2015-12-01T09:51:45.397" Score="5" ViewCount="19571" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do electric car transmission systems work? Does it have an auto or manual gear concept like gasoline vehicles? As an electric motor can run in any speed (slow), is it necessary to have a clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13439" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T16:55:46.663" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T20:50:51.440" Title="How do electric car transmission systems work?" Tags="|transmission|electric-vehicle|theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22848" CreationDate="2015-12-01T11:10:19.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try just pumping the brakes several times with the engine running and see if that doesn't help. It could just be the calipers need to be filled back up with fluid which will adjust them to where they need to be. When I say pump them several times, continue pumping/releasing until the brake pedal gets hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T11:10:19.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22878" CreationDate="2015-12-01T11:15:37.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you can do it yourself depends on what the cause of the problem is. If I take into account the fact that you say you can't find any oil leaks and that the oil is being burned off, the most likely problem is that you have broken piston rings and/or ringlands. This will allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber from the crank case. It will then be burned along with the air/fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, it would require the engine being taken out and stripped to get at the pistons. It's not something you'd want to do yourself if you can help it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do yourself to verify whether or not oil is being burned off is to inspect the condition of the catalytic converter. Though being a 13 year old car, the catalytic converter would be pretty black and sooty even in a car that does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; burn oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T11:15:37.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22891" CreationDate="2015-12-01T11:20:48.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22790/afraid-to-crank-engine-how-can-i-tell-if-my-cylinders-are-flooded-with-water&quot;&gt;water found its way&lt;/a&gt; into my M5's brake booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M5 forums document that people who have suffered from a similar problem will replace their brake booster to fix it. No mention is made of whether the brake booster is actually salvageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the brake booster can be salvaged by simply draining the water out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of damage could water do to the brake booster internals that would make it unfit for use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T12:29:32.893" Title="Is a water-logged brake booster salvageable?" Tags="|water-leak|brake-booster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22885" CreationDate="2015-12-01T11:39:42.433" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it can be done different ways, but I'll describe the Nissan Leaf, since it is one of the true electric cars on the market today (not a hybrid gas/electric). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://livingleaf.info/2010/11/nissan-leaf-electric-motor-and-transmission/&quot;&gt;Nissan Leaf&lt;/a&gt; does not use a typical automatic or manual transmissions. It uses a single speed reduction gear with a final drive ratio of 7.9377. The motor itself can spin at ~10k rpm. This gives the Leaf a top speed of around 94MPH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were wondering why a purely electric vehicle doesn't need a &quot;regular&quot; transmission, but instead uses the single speed reduction gear, the reason is two fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It doesn't need one:&lt;/strong&gt; Typical gasoline (petrol) engines have a very narrow torque band. This requires varying the gearing (with multiple gear ratios) to allow the engine to perform efficiently and propel the vehicle down the road with some amount of respect. Electric motors create torque throughout the RPM range. They can create a large amount of torque from 0 RPM almost all the way through to their maximum RPM (whatever that is for an individual motor). Since almost the entire RPM range for the motor produces usable torque, there's no need for a transmission. Because the motor can produce torque from 0RPM, there is no need for a clutch, either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simplicity:&lt;/strong&gt; A multispeed electric vehicle transmission would add weight, complexity, friction, and inefficiency to an otherwise simple system, actually robbing the powertrain of torque, power, and efficiency. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is the Tesla Model S. It uses a single speed stepdown transmission (if you want to call it that) with a ratio of 9.73:1. Even with this, the motor is fully capable of propelling the car at 130MPH and going from 0-60MPH in ~4 seconds. No need for a multispeed transmission there, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T11:39:42.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22883" CreationDate="2015-12-01T12:07:00.463" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on where you want to end up. If your intent is to become a fully qualified and employable mechanic, then what @cloudnyn3 has listed is spot on and a good way to go. If, however, you want to learn for yourself as a hobby, the best way to learn &lt;em&gt;is to just do it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an innate mechanical ability (it just comes naturally to you), you shouldn't have any issue learning how to fix things. Buying a &quot;fixer-upper&quot; vehicle and going to town on it is by far the best way to learn in this situation. This would be a vehicle you wouldn't mind putting money into for no other reason than to learn. Remember, you'll never get the money out of the vehicle you put into it ... your payment in return is the knowledge of how to do something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as doing the work yourself, there are a few notes for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools:&lt;/strong&gt; You don't have to have a master mechanic's tool set to do the job. You can purchase a simple set of sockets/ratchets/wrenches (a basic set) and have 85% of the tools you'll ever need. As your need and experience grows, you purchase more tools to fill in that 15%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anal-ness:&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to do a job right, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you cannot be anal enough&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. What I mean by this is, you need to remember where things came off of and where to put them back to. If you don't do this, you'll be the mechanic who &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; has left over nuts/bolts. If your memory isn't so great: take pictures of where things belong; use masking tape to mark connections; etc. A lot of parts when you pull them out of the engine need to go back in the same order you found them due to something called &lt;em&gt;sympathetic wear&lt;/em&gt;. What this means is, parts become &lt;em&gt;used to each other&lt;/em&gt;. If you mix and match during reassembly, you'll find parts will wear out much quicker than if you put them back in the proper order. (The valve train is one thing which comes to mind here.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleanliness:&lt;/strong&gt; In most work you'll ever do, cleanliness is next to Godliness. Making/keeping your project and work area clean will help you in untold ways. This is especially so when rebuilding an engine or transmission. You just cannot be clean enough when doing so. Fine grit, dirt, or unwanted grease can cause your newly rebuilt &lt;em&gt;whatever&lt;/em&gt; to self-destruct in short order. No sense becoming frustrated on a project because you aren't taking the time to do it right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get started, you cannot read enough. Get your hands on some DIY books on engine building and car repair. This is a cheap and easy way to get started. Getting started with some knowledge on the subject will save you a lot of time and money down the road. It also gives you a starting point. Also, we are never so happy here on SE when we can answer a question, so &lt;em&gt;PUH-LEASE&lt;/em&gt; come back and ask many! We do ask, however, you search first as many questions have already been answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T12:07:00.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22888" CreationDate="2015-12-01T12:29:32.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since that brake booster is very vital in the function of your brakes, I would HIGHLY suggest just replacing it; You could even get one from a junkyard depending on the year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get water into the brake booster, depending on the quality and coatings of the metal used; You can possibly rot the diaphragm or rust out the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just recently worked on a Hyundai Genesis and the brake booster failed due to faulty engineering. He literally ran into the back of another car because his leg strength wasn't even enough to slow the vehicle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace it with a new one and tinker with the old one for fun if you're really interested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T12:29:32.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2015-12-01T12:44:09.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you can't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake lines have double the strength than they need. Rust degrades that strength. The problem is that at 50% strength they still stop the car without a problem. Now when they degrade below this a good panic stop can burst a line. The line won't show any visual signs of being ready to burst. If your lucky (sort of) the line will start weeping so that it's visually leaking brake fluid but at this point the line is down to less than 10% integrity and will burst with only moderate brake effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging what state the lines are in is impossible. The real decision is whether you want to replace the lines before they burst. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T12:44:09.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T12:58:08.200" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SE. My problem is that my dc power outlets  (cigarette lighter) are on continuously. I was charging one of my cell phone battery packs and as I unplugged it I noticed that the light on my dc to USB adapter was still lit, meaning that power was still on the line from the battery pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I left that plugged in, will it compensate for the constant drain of something small like a radar detector? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13442" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T16:12:38.023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:12:38.023" Title="Constant drain on battery solution" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|battery-drain|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22879" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:19:18.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, any significant corrosion will be picked up on the annual safety inspection (MOT) and the tester will advise or require replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use a visual only check so this is rather subjective but the criteria that they apply is, in their opinion, has the corrosion made the sidewalls of the pipework any thinner that it would have originally been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the cost of replacement is very low and the damage that can result if one of these lines fails in operation, I'd personally air on the side of caution and replace them for, if anything, my own piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:19:18.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22878" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:34:17.143" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of first cheked its compression reading.  If its abnormal  . Get engine overhauled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:34:17.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22903" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:39:54.763" Score="5" ViewCount="9534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla with a 1.3 litre 4EFE non-interference petrol engine. The car has 90,000 miles on the clock, I have owned it for five years and clocked up 30,000 of those miles myself. I do not know if the belt has been changed. I have taken off the timing belt cover, put the car in fifth gear and pushed the car to rotate the belt. I filmed it (poorly!) and have uploaded the footage to YouTube &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYIObwa6kxI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYIObwa6kxI&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking for that could indicate an imminent replacement is required? Based on the linked video, would you recommend changing it now, or could I get another six months, 10,000 miles of use out of it (money is tight)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T22:52:50.017" Title="How to tell if timing belt is due to be changed by visual inspection?" Tags="|replace|timing-belt|wear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22848" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:41:39.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the replacement of brake pads ., was the brake oil resiorver cap removed or not? , when caliper piston was being pushed.. If not may be its seals of master cylinder got damaged. Due to this padle is spongy or got down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:41:39.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22902" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:47:08.443" Score="8" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say that I happen to know for a fact that my car has a non-interference type engine, and also has a timing belt.  Also, I'm broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to replace the timing belt as a maintenance item?  Will anything be harmed (other than loosing the use of my vehicle for a while) if I just let it ride and worry about it after it snaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T09:00:46.707" Title="On a non-interference engine, do you have to replace the timing belt?" Tags="|timing-belt|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22894" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:48:33.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the system has no ability to compensate for drain, however small, if the engine is not running.  Therefore I would recommend removing anything from the power outlet if the car is parked up.  Even the smallest drain (such as an interior light left on) will eventually drain the battery and prevent the car from starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:48:33.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22900" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:01:11.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On non-interference motors there is no &lt;em&gt;compelling&lt;/em&gt; reason to change out the belt on a schedule other than to ensure your vehicle does not leave you stranded at the most inopportune time. It will not damage anything if it does let go, but assume it will &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; leave you stranded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to think about here is to ensure you know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; which type of motor you have. While they exist, you must know almost all engines produced in the recent past are interference motors. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not assume&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; your motor is not. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Know&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; whether or not it is a non-interference type. Assuming it isn't will ensure engine destruction on a replacement level. Pay a small amount now versus a large amount later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:01:11.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:09:39.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;there is no accurate visual way to tell.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Once in a &lt;em&gt;great while&lt;/em&gt; you'll see it start to fray, but that is very infrequent. What usually happens is that the belt will stretch beyond it's hold limit, where it will slip a tooth or two, which causes the timing to be haywire and bad things to happen. There is just no &lt;em&gt;visual&lt;/em&gt; way you can account for the stretch without measuring it against another newer belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not know when the last time a timing belt was changed and you are beyond the point when the first belt change was due, my suggestions is to always change out the belt. It is the first bit of maintenance I will perform on a new to me car. The second is to do a tune up (if past the time for O2/plug replacement). It is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ALWAYS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; better to be safe than sorry. As I've said before, it is better to pay a little money now for a new belt than to pay a lot more later for a new engine. When they slip/break it happens all of a sudden. There is no way you can avoid damage. There are a few people who get away with it, but those situations are far and few between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PHOTO EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HIkH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4HIkH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Bent Valves&amp;quot; by Andrew Fogg - http://www.flickr.com/photos/ndrwfgg/223185737. Licensed under CC BY 2.0 via Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bent_Valves.jpg#/media/File:Bent_Valves.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T22:52:50.017" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T22:52:50.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:13:26.320" Score="5" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a compact and &lt;em&gt;inexpensive&lt;/em&gt; way to attach a threaded part parallel to the surface of a sheet metal part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &quot;easy&quot; way to do this, in my mind, is to use a threaded block similar to an alternator spacer block, seen below, but I can't find this kind of part on McMaster.com. I'm not sure if that's because this is an obscure part or if I'm not calling it by its proper name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he8uZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/he8uZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alternator spacer block 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gXja.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4gXja.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alternator spacer block 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I searched &quot;Alternator adjustment block&quot; on Google images the pictures above showed up, and both of those images are called, &quot;alternator adjustment spacer block,&quot; but searching that term doesn't seem to pull up too many more results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the block I'm looking for would have &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; holes, as in my drawing below. See also the drawing of the desired setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDxOk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDxOk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Desired block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gtcx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gtcx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Threaded block with rod end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, to be clear, I'm looking for the name of this part as I'm not sure what the specific name of it is, if it has one. With the name I can then find parts sources myself (not a shopping request). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12850" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T16:18:21.363" Title="Is there another name for an alternator spacer block?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23385" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:36:22.513" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015 Audi S3 w/ Lane Assist.  With lane assist off.  Sometimes while cold, sometimes after 20+ miles the steering wheel at freeway speeds will stick in the center. It's like it fights you a little bit right around center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastEditorUserId="13445" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:20:49.927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:11:30.747" Title="2015 Audi w/ Lane Assist The steering wheel sticks around center while driving on the free way" Tags="|steering|audi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6841" CreationDate="2015-12-01T18:09:41.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;changing the final drive ratio is more easier and cheaper than replacing 5 tires &amp;amp; rimes any way you should know there are 3 ratios 3.9 ,,, 4.1 ,,, 4.3  so check which ratio you have thin choose lower one   and don't forget that you have transfer case high ratio of 1.2 and low ratio 2.35     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13446" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T18:09:41.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2015-12-01T20:51:55.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than obvious physical defects such as cracking or fraying, there is no way to visually determine 'how much time' is left before the belt will cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in the same financial situation with this same vehicle/engine, I'd drive it another 10k. As you've stated, this is a non-interference engine. This means the valves and pistons will not touch and damage each other even if the belt breaks. Worst case scenario is that you're stuck somewhere and will need a tow, not a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T20:51:55.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4882" CreationDate="2015-12-01T21:14:33.487" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take if off. Engine runs cooler without the cover so your engine will be more efficient and run better giving better performance and better mpg. I know because I have run my motor with the cover on and off. Engine runs so much better without that lump of plastic restricting air-flow over the engine. Fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13449" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T21:14:33.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22878" CreationDate="2015-12-01T21:48:01.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of a long shot, but I have seen it (on old Chevy 6's), and it's a lot easier than a ring job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are drains in the heads, to allow oil to return to the base.  These drains can plug with sludge.  This can 'flood' the top of the head, leading to leakage through the not-so-great valve cover gasket or down the not-so-tight-anymore valve seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check, just remove the valve cover and assess.  If there's a lot of sludge, you could try scooping it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T21:48:01.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22912" CreationDate="2015-12-01T21:59:56.233" Score="0" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the rev counter approaches the red zone, the power seems to stop and nothing seems to happen after this (even if your foot is flat to the floor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually happens inside the engine when the redline is approached and the rev-limiter is reached (on a stock engine)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:08:09.170" Title="What actually happens when the engine approaches redline and the rev-limiter is reached?" Tags="|engine-theory|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-01T22:22:20.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22911" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:08:09.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not intended to be a great answer but just so you know the information is there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/tags/rev-limiter/info&quot;&gt;description of the rev-limiter tag&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Device used in the ignition system to limit the rotations per minute (RPM) or engine speed. In newer electronically controlled powertrains, this can be done through programming of the powertrain control unit/module (PCU/PCM). The RPM is preset and will not allow the engine to go past this point. One way it can limit this by cutting the spark output to certain cylinders at certain times, which will not allow the engine to rev any higher. This helps protect the engine from accidental damage caused from stresses it was not intended to withstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:08:09.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22914" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:21:44.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD tells whether I have passed the emission test or not. I want to know the formula by which it calculates the rate of CO, NOx, HC emission from my car and compares it with some set threshold value to give a pass/fail result.&#xA;The formula will be different for Petrol (gasoline) and Diesel cars, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.830" Title="Formula to calculate emission rates" Tags="|obd-ii|diesel|emissions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22913" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:55:06.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you miss-understand how OBD tells that your car is passing emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the car does is make sure that the emissions control systems are functioning and then it hopes that what is coming out of the tail pipe is OK. The car verifies that the fuel mixture is within tolerance, that the EGR is functioning, that the evaporative emissions system has no holes and is purging, that the catalytic converter can store adequate amounts of oxygen and that all the electrical components are functional. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that there is nothing else. The car could be pouring out mad amounts of NOx but never know about it if all the systems are functional. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR system is verified by checking it's flow either directly or indirectly. If there is a correct amount of flow then the system is deemed functional. Ford uses a DPFE sensor that checks the flow of the EGR directly. Other cars use the MAP sensor to indirectly check EGR flow. By activating the EGR valve there should be a notable drop in the manifold vacuum. If there is too much flow then the the valve is stuck open. If there is too little flow or no flow then something is wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EVAP system is checked for leaks and flow. There are literally hundreds of different ways to check this. The most commons is using a vent solenoid, purge solenoid and EVAP pressure sensor. The system is sealed with the vent solenoid. Then activating the purge solenoid (while the engine is running) will pull the system into a light vacuum. This vacuum is read my the pressure sensor. If the system is capable of achieving a vacuum means that purge flow is sufficient. Once a vacuum is achieved then the the purge solenoid stops. The system will then watch the rate of decay. If the rate of decay is slow then the system is good. If the decay is high then there is a hole of some sorts. If a vacuum can not be achieved at all then there is a huge hole or the purge solenoid is not working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel system is checked with the oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors verify if too much too little or just the right amount of fuel is being added. This amount is reflected in the long term fuel trim numbers. If the numbers are around zero then everything is good. If the numbers are very negative (depends on vehicle but under -12% would do it) the system is running too rich. If the numbers are very positive (over 12%) the the system is too lean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the EVAP system there are lots of ways to check the the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor down stream of it. By comparing the upstream and down stream oxygen sensors the oxygen storage capability of the converter can be checked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T18:02:27.107" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T18:02:27.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T03:07:17.230" Score="2" ViewCount="8712" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I let the car warm up for 10 minutes with the heater set on any level it blows warm air not hot. replaced thermostat. I'm worried when it really gets cold in Chicago is it going to be enough to heat the car?  what should I check &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13452" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T16:18:42.920" Title="2006 Chevrolet Equinox warm heat blowing" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22915" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:46:51.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check your coolant system. One possible problem is that the coolant hasn't been changed, and so it's gotten gunked up and clogged the heater core. It's not easy to verify this directly, but (&lt;em&gt;when the engine is cold!&lt;/em&gt;) unscrew the radiator cap (or expansion tank cap) and take a look at the coolant. If it looks brown/muddy, it could indicate that dirt is clogging parts of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most likely the cause of the problem (unless there's been some major trauma to the car). If so, you can try a coolant flush. You'll want to look up the exact procedure for your car, but briefly, it involves finding the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and opening it to empty the coolant in the radiator. Please collect this and dispose of it at a recycling facility. Antifreeze is toxic and many recycling centers will take it for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing on, your vehicle should be tall enough to do this without jacks. If you feel adventurous, you can even remove the engine drain plug (for coolant, not oil). Once both are drained and the plugs reinstalled (check if you need new O-rings or crush washers), you can refill the system with a bottle of radiator flush, which you can find at an auto parts store, and an appropriate amount of &lt;em&gt;distilled&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;deionized&lt;/em&gt; water. Both are easily found, but don't use straight tap water, since the ions in the water can cause corrosion. Check your owner's manual for the amount of water required. Be sure to follow the directions on the radiator flush bottle as well. This will generally include driving for a bit with the heat on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll drain the system again, and refill with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled/deionized water. Your owner's manual should specify what type of antifreeze to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't attempt this if it is already below freezing, since there's a possibility that the radiator flush won't prevent the water from freezing, which would be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it turns out that this isn't likely the issue (coolant looks good, or flush didn't work), then there may be other issues present, such as:&#xA;1) Broken heater core valves&#xA;2) Air bubble trapped in coolant line to heater core&#xA;3) Broken blend door&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those are somewhat harder to resolve than a simple radiator flush, but DIY instructions can be pretty quickly found online. There's even a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.equinoxforum.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Chevy Equinox Forum&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps you diagnose the problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13457" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T09:46:51.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22878" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:55:01.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like your head gasket might be blown. The amount of oil being consumed is remarkably high. There are far older cars that consume less, so I doubt it's the piston rings, unless there has been some trauma to damage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; like the oil is being burned, since you aren't finding any, but check your exhaust. The amount of oil being burned might cause a bluish tinge to your exhaust. It would also cause a distinctive oily smell (think weed whacker exhaust). Both would indicate the oil is being burned off in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check your coolant though, since it's possible for oil to enter the coolant system if seals (such as a head gasket) are broken. This would likely go two ways. I doubt this is likely, since eventually the coolant system would flood with oil if this were the case. Either way, if you see oil in your coolant, there's likely a problem with the internal seals, and could be a sign of a larger problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13457" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T09:55:01.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22930" CreationDate="2015-12-02T13:31:28.637" Score="1" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2009 Audi A4 which has been running rough with the check engine light on, especially at idle for two days. The dealer described it as a large vacuum leak, and estimated ~$1000 to replace the intake manifold, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will bring it to an independent mechanic who is usually good, but in the mean time, is it safe to drive the car in this condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There are also apparently unrelated oil leaks coming from the &quot;the front of the engine&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="13462" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T14:12:27.040" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T19:04:35.510" Title="Audi A4 (B8) safe to drive with vacuum leak?" Tags="|audi|a4|vacuum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21484" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:04:03.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. I removed the manifold completely and tried to remove it with vise grips without success. Then it broke again and was flush with head. Then I drilled it and tried an extractor which did not work. My last resource was drill the whole bolt starting with a small drill and switching gradually to a larger one. Then when there was a thin wall left from the bolt I drilled with a tinny drill bit between the bolt wall and the head wall. Damaging the thread on the head a little bit but was able to remove the bolt. After that I drilled a larger hole and fixed the thread with a helicoil from autozone. Be careful not to break the drill when drilling the bolt otherwise you will be screwed. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T22:59:50.553" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T22:59:50.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T16:21:18.327" Score="1" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford ikon 1.8 nxt diesel. It has coverd 130000 kms. Now in winter, there is starting trouble. Mostly it takes 30 to 35 secs. Long self. I have checked its heater , hetaer timer ,fuel leakage , battery replaced .but problem as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T20:48:01.240" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:48:01.240" Title="Ford ikon 1.8 nxt diesel - Starting problem" Tags="|engine|ford|starting|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-17T03:50:01.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T16:22:19.160" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so I currently have a BMW e46 (318i) and i took it to my mechanic, motors wrecked etc etc. He suggested a cheaper alternative to fixing the motor would be to buy a whole new car (max 5k, second hand) which has a good engine/motor and he would replace one with the other. Would it matter what type of BMW I get or would it have to be the same series and year etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13466" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T16:22:19.160" Title="What car would I need to buy (secondhand) to replace my currently wrecked BMW 318i motor?" Tags="|engine|motors|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-18T04:34:57.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2015-12-02T16:55:02.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an automatic transmission then it is likely running fluid to an integrated cooler within the radiator.  Most passenger vehicles cool the automatic transmission fluid in this manner.  If ATF gets too hot then it will degrade and can cause shifting problems and premature wear on your vehicle's transmission.  If this is a concern then an external automatic transmission fluid cooler can easily be installed on most vehicles with simple hand tools for under $50.   Other causes of fluid related shift problems are too low fluid, too much fluid, and old fluid (will be a dark brown color on transmission dip stick - should be bright red).    Too high fluid will cause cavitation creating air bubbles which is something to avoid in any hydraulic system.  Always keep the fluid level in between the high-low marks on the dip stick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the issue of engine temperature.  The engine is under a much greater load when pushing a vehicle against gravity (up hill).  This causes greater pressure within the cylinders during operation.  Increasing pressures lead to greater heat.  If your cooling system is no longer able to dissipate the heat efficiently then engine temperatures will rise above normal.  If the radiator fins are significantly bent then air flow across the radiator will not be sufficient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often overlooked is the radiator cap.  The cap will have a rating on it and a spring loaded plunger.  When the system heats up pressure within the cooling system will increase.  Fluids under higher pressure have a higher heat capacity (higher boiling point) so if your cap is worn out the fluid cannot retain enough heat before boiling.  Boiling is also bad.  So cheap insurance is to replace the radiator cap when issues arise to see if that helps or whenever the radiator is replaced.  FYI, always use a cap with a pressure rating listed by the manufacturer or suggested by an auto parts retailer if that cannot be found.  A higher pressure cap is not better and may cause damage to your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13467" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T16:55:02.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T18:03:47.727" Score="4" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 BMW 325xi.  It has the GM 5L40-E auto trans.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle disengaged drive while moving.  My g/f was driving the car and the transmission was engaged i.e. power was being transmitted from the output shaft of the engine to the input shaft of the trans and then from the trans to the transfer case and on to the drive shafts.  Then suddenly there was no power being transferred to the drive shafts.  When she stopped the car, placing in &quot;P&quot; ground a bit, which I assume is the parking pawl smashing into the parking gear because it was still turning.  Once the shift selector was in the &quot;P&quot; position the car was not in park and the engine could still be revved. When choosing &quot;R&quot; with the gear selector, no engagement and engine could still be revved.  Same for &quot;D&quot; and all of the low gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not gotten under the car to check out the drive shaft linkage or the transfer case yet.  Assuming no major mechanical failure of the transfer case or drive shafts, what is the process flow when the gear selector is put into each position? I.E. what is the state of the Torque Converter Clutch when the car is in &quot;P&quot; and the ignition is not on, then what is the state of the TCC when the ignition is &quot;ON&quot; and the output shaft of the engine is rotating?  What does the TCC solenoid do in each state? What does the Pulse Width Modulator Solenoid do in all states?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its not a huge mechanical failure (there was no loud audible bang or clank when she was driving and the trans disengaged all gears. The problem is something like a false neutral if you've ever ridden a dirt bike / atv)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want a process flow diagram or some other informative representation of what happens when the gear selector is put to &quot;P&quot; position, &quot;R&quot; position, &quot;D&quot; position, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13469" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T01:03:25.990" Title="Auto Trans gear selector does not engage ANYTHING?" Tags="|transmission|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22937" CreationDate="2015-12-02T18:45:09.970" Score="3" ViewCount="26712" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, Manual Transmission, 170000 miles, EJ251 SOHC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic has told me that I have a leaking camshaft seal. I have a few questions. Background is that I had my head gaskets and timing belt redone 1 year ago using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2168698&amp;amp;jnid=297&amp;amp;jpid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Conti TB kit&lt;/a&gt;, which apparently does not come with camshaft seals, my invoice doesn't include new ones, and so they probably have not have been replaced. I wish I could ask them, but they went out of business!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because it's hard to get in there and see the camshaft seal, I'm skeptical that it can be diagnosed properly without taking the car apart. Could an apparent oil leak (there's some drippage on a hose underneath the left head) be caused by anything else? How should I go about independently diagnosing this leak? Should I bring this somewhere else for another opinion?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand that a leaking camshaft seal can compromise the timing belt, leading to a catastrophic engine failure and damage (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11591/can-camshaft-seal-leaking-hurt-timing-belt-and-cause-sudden-engine-breakdown-whi&quot;&gt;see this post&lt;/a&gt;). Supposing I do have a camshaft seal leak, and the timing belt, pulleys, water pump, and thermometer are all gross and oily, what should I replace? Keep in mind that I replaced the timing system one year ago (see above). What if all these components don't look dirty/oily?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur, but enthusiastic auto (and bicycle!) mechanic, but I've never done any engine work. I had no problem with rear strut replacement and two front axle replacements -- both of these are relatively easy on my car. Who of you have confidence in me? What could go very wrong that I should look out for? Do I need any specialized tools? I have one small and one large torque wrenches, and many sockets. No air tools. I'm hoping to avoid a rusted-part disaster since the whole thing was taken apart and reassembled 1 year ago.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to remove my radiator for this job? How about drain the oil? Drain the coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="7084" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T14:09:51.800" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T16:52:04.760" Title="Conequences and remedies of a cam seal leak" Tags="|subaru|timing-belt|impreza|camshaft|seal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22920" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:04:35.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its fine if you drive it, but you might want to get it fixed as soon as possible, because it decreases the power of your vehicle and it could possibly harm your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T19:04:35.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2015-12-02T19:08:07.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is possibly a vacuum leak which can affect the performance of your vehicle by creating a lean condition.  Additionally the extra oxygen will increase the combustion temperature and potentially damage your valves in the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T23:00:00.587" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T23:00:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T10:41:16.637" Score="0" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ctek D250S DC-DC charger in my vehicle charging a 12V 100Ah agm battery from solar and alternator with up to 20A. While travelling I need to charge a 12V 7.5Ah SLA battery. Conneting both in parallel will yield a bank with 12V/107.5Ah, and the charger would be appropriate. However, the charger is not appropriate if the 7.5Ah battery would be connected directly to the charger. The question is whether there is any chance that the charger may &quot;kill&quot; the 7.5Ah battery while being a part of the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1407220" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T01:22:11.277" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:22:11.277" Title="charging battery bank with two vastly different batteries" Tags="|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22932" CreationDate="2015-12-02T14:29:49.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paralleling batteries causes a world of headaches and battery deaths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be better off to have a dedicated charging circuit for the 7.5 AH battery and keep them totally separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T14:29:49.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T22:07:42.893" Score="2" ViewCount="1488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two cracked motor mounts on my KIA Sadona. I am curious as to what may have caused this. I am wondering if driving longer distances could cause it to happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 2004 Kia Sedona EX. I bought it in April. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13472" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T08:47:24.500" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T08:47:24.500" Title="Can driving long distances cause motor mounts to crack?" Tags="|engine|kia|motor-mounts|sedona|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22934" CreationDate="2015-12-02T23:02:18.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing which damages motor mounts is the torque provided by the engine (the twisting motion the motor mounts are preventing). When you are driving down the highway on a long cruise, you are actually putting &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; torque the motor mounts than you would if you were in stop &amp;amp; go traffic. Any motion causes wear on your motor mounts, but highway driving is going to cause the least amount of wear on them when compared to other types of driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T23:02:18.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22929" CreationDate="2015-12-02T23:51:37.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Because it's hard to get in there and see the camshaft seal, I'm skeptical that it can be diagnosed properly without taking the car apart. Could an apparent oil leak (there's some drippage on a hose underneath the left head) be caused by anything else? How should I go about independently diagnosing this leak? Should I bring this somewhere else for another opinion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always go to a separate mechanic for an independent opinion. In fact, I would recommend it. However, it isn't that hard to diagnose. All you have to know is what you're looking for, which in this case is &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; the oil is coming from. If it's leaking from the front cover (which covers the timing belt) just below where the cam sprocket is located, it's a &lt;em&gt;pretty good bet&lt;/em&gt; the seal is what's leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I understand that a leaking camshaft seal can compromise the timing belt, leading to a catastrophic engine failure and damage (see this post). Supposing I do have a camshaft seal leak, and the timing belt, pulleys, water pump, and thermometer are all gross and oily, what should I replace? Keep in mind that I replaced the timing system one year ago (see above). What if all these components don't look dirty/oily?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is leaking and there is oil on the belt, change it. Oil will deteriorate the belt and it's one piece of equipment on your vehicle which you don't want compromised. Since timing belts are most easily obtained as kits (which are usually not much more expensive than a the belt itself), your best bet is to replace all of the same parts so you can be assured of another 60k trouble free miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In the timing belt removal section of my repair manual, it says not to rotate camshaft sprockets after the timing belt has been removed, else the valves will be damaged. However, in the camshaft sprocket section, it says I should remove the timing belt assembly before loosening the camshaft sprocket bolts, which seems super risky if they're not supposed to be rotated. Doesn't it make sense to loosen these bolts with the timing belt on, then remove the TB, then remove the sprockets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they are saying this so as you don't put undue stress on your timing belt (coming off and/or going on). When you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; removing the sprocket, you still don't want it to turn any. You need to lock the cam in place and then loosen the bolt for the sprocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I am an amateur, but enthusiastic auto (and bicycle!) mechanic, but I've never done any engine work. I had no problem with rear strut replacement and two front axle replacements -- both of these are relatively easy on my car. Who of you have confidence in me? What could go very wrong that I should look out for? Do I need any specialized tools? I have one small and one large torque wrenches, and many sockets. No air tools. I'm hoping to avoid a rusted-part disaster since the whole thing was taken apart and reassembled 1 year ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to tell you what to do, but needless to say, this isn't a job for the uninitiated. There are a lot of gotchas. The big one being aligning your cam timing. You didn't say, but I believe your engine has four cam shafts which have to be time along with the crank. If you don't get this right, you will most likely have cost yourself an engine. If this is something you &lt;em&gt;fell&lt;/em&gt; you must do, have a competent friend come help/watch to ensure you are doing things right. You can watch some of the videos on YouTube, which may be of assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I just looked online at the engine which you &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; have. Depending on which one it is (2.0TC, 2.5, or 2.5TC), it could have 2 or 4 cams. If this is one with 4 cams, I believe it has cam phasers (used in variable valve timing). If so, I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU NOT DO IT YOURSELF&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. There are just too many variables to try and tell you to avoid while doing the work and putting it back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do I need to remove my radiator for this job? How about drain the oil? Drain the coolant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T23:51:37.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2015-12-03T00:04:51.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be safe, the general consensus appears to advocate SilGlyde type grease for the piston area, also the sliding pins of the caliper; many who tried other lubes regret it eventually as the moly greases slowly swell the rubber of the boots and bushings. The moly type generic &quot;brake grease&quot; is to be applied sparingly to the metal-metal areas only, like the sliding points where the end tabs of the pads track as the pads move in and out with the few millimeters of play during braking.&#xA;Greases may look alike, but you need to know the base type to understand whether over time it's going to behave as intended - dyes and colorants make a rainbow of greases look alike, but have no relation to the base chemistry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13475" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T00:04:51.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22934" CreationDate="2015-12-03T02:07:21.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few factors contribute to rubber inserts within motor mounts to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1.  Dry Rot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber decays over time and loses it's elasticity.  The degraded rubber fails slowly over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2.  Chemicals&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chemicals can accelerate the decay of rubber.  Certain acids such as hydrofluoric and hydrochloric will degrade Buna-N rubber.  EPDM rubber can degrade from gasoline or glycol ethers contained in brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3.  Physical&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting from park to reverse then to drive does the most physical wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the three together and considering you have a 2004 vehicle it's completely reasonable that you've had a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highway driving is probably better than the car just sitting as the motion and input help to keep the rubber pliable for longer.  Counter intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace it and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T02:07:21.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22745" CreationDate="2015-12-03T03:12:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to get heated mirrors is to buy the mirrors separately, but there is although a product that is a heated pad to place on the back of your mirror, although you will have to have wiring done to turn them on and put them on a switch, which is really not that big of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T03:12:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22745" CreationDate="2015-12-03T03:14:46.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mirror-heater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mirror-heater&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that should bring ya to the page, they aren't that much, around 15 bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T03:14:46.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24198" CreationDate="2015-12-03T03:24:19.293" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear a ticking noise coming from the driver side rear end, possibly coming from the differential, not sure though because i checked out the pinion gear and i don't see any chips off any of the teeth, the noise usually begins when i'm in 2nd gear and get it in between 2 thousand and 3 thousand RPMs. Its usually on and off, but once and awhile when i push in the clutch and coast to a stop sometimes it starts making a loud clunking noise that doesn't sound pleasing. Anybody who could help out and try to figure this problem would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T23:10:33.300" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:51:55.667" Title="I have a 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara 5 Speed Ticking noise" Tags="|transmission|suzuki|gears|differential|grand-vitara|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25849" CreationDate="2015-12-03T07:27:03.417" Score="4" ViewCount="39943" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving, I faced some problem in my bike. when &lt;code&gt;I raise the accelerator suddenly my bike's speed goes down&lt;/code&gt;. Anyone knows what is the problem?. I'm using &lt;code&gt;yamaha ss 125 cc&lt;/code&gt; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T05:22:07.937" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T17:12:48.193" Title="While raising the accelerator suddenly my bike's speed goes down" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|yamaha|acceleration|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22964" CreationDate="2015-12-03T07:46:25.483" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was admiring my grandpa's John Deere 5203 tractor today and saw this. I'm pretty sure that's the throttle connected to the spring-hinge, so I'm guessing it's some kinda fuel injection. However, I know diesel engines strictly introduce fuel in the cylinder. So what is it, and what is its function? &#xA;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6mhAK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6mhAK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T22:36:56.310" Title="Does anybody know what this is?" Tags="|diesel|john-deere|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22991" CreationDate="2015-12-03T08:09:41.560" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I own Renault Megane Mk3 for while and car's paint is almost full with small scratches due to hard cleaning, I know its stupid thing to make but it wasn't my fault. &#xA;You will get how scratches look like in photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7Ng0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7Ng0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thos circles that appears when a light reflect on car's surface.&#xA; If photos are not clear I'll provide another photos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13483" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T09:18:52.257" Title="Is there is a way to repair the paint as the new car?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-07T14:02:28.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22949" CreationDate="2015-12-03T08:16:37.493" Score="4" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I own Renault Megane Mk3 for while and car's paint is almost full with small scratches due to hard cleaning( car was cleaned by a hard surface ), I know its stupid thing to make but it wasn't my fault. &#xA;So is there is way to fix this? Rather than repainting the whole car because its quite expensive in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get how scratches look like in photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qppHy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qppHy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those  circles that appears when a light reflect on car's surface.&#xA; If photos are not clear I'll provide another photos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14N6t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14N6t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13483" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T09:00:35.107" Title="Paint light scratches repair" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2015-12-03T09:00:35.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is covered in superficial scratches then a good polishing job will work wonders. Take it to a reputable shop and behold how sexy you car has become. You can do it yourself if you have a polishing machine, it will be a huge chore without it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it won't help against deeper scratches, it is hard to tell from the photo how deep they are in your case. In the case of deep scratches there are kits for reducing their visibility, but are usually oriented towards single deep paint cuts. Many shops do it as well, but don't expect miracles if it is done without part repainting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T09:00:35.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22556" CreationDate="2015-12-03T09:48:59.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;100% engine load is the situation where the throttle flaps are wide open and fuel system is providing as much fuel as possible and the engine is at peak torque but the revs are not rising.  This type of scenario can be seen in the real world when a vehicle with a heave trailer attached is climbing a steep hill, in a low gear and with foot flat to the floor, is not getting any faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scenario can be simulated on a rolling road.  It can not be achieved in neutral because there is insufficient opposing force on the flywheel to counter the acceleration of the engine.  What will happen is that RPM will stop climbing when the rev limiter cuts in or the bob weights on the distributor can not advance the ignition any further.  This is not the same as opposing forces slowing the rate of RPM rise to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T09:48:59.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22913" CreationDate="2015-12-03T09:51:42.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you manage to get the fuel consumption from the OBDII data, you can calculate the amount of CO2 emitted. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16712/calculating-mpg-from-map-sensor-or-converting-map-data-to-maf-data/19168#19168&quot;&gt;How to calculate petrol consumption (roghly) from OBDII data&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since fossile fuel is a mixture of different hydrogencarbons, it is  inevitable that its combustion generates CO2. I found 2.32kg per liter petrol and 2.62kg per liter diesel, but this numbers may vary due to variations of the composition (e.g. additional ethanol) and temperature (volume expands with temperature). However, these values give a good hint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other emissions inadvertent by-products. A tiny fraction of the fuel may not be burned completely, causing some CO and/or unburned carbon/fuel. Too much air causes CO, and since the oxygen starts to react with the nitrogen of the air, NOx. The amount of emissions depends on the motor design and load / environmental conditions. May be the manufacturer has a table of this, but you won't get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the car doesn't measure them. For example, the actual VW emission scandal is about NOx and was discovered when testing a newly developed, mobile NOx measurement device. It wasn't possible to measure NOx while driving on the road before.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The lambda-sensor measures the amount of remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas, so the car can adjust the air/fuel ratio to make the combustion as perfect as possible, but it can't fully avoid nor measure this emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T09:51:42.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T13:39:37.683" Score="-2" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problem changing gear with my volkswagen polo 2001. I was told that a ball is missing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chendra Alwar    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13491" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T23:17:47.410" Title="problem changing gear volkswagen polo 2001" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22945" CreationDate="2015-12-03T15:13:55.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twisting the throttle opens the butterfly valve in the carburetor which allows it to suck in more air.  With the increased air flow, the carb &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; also suck in more fuel.  So, if enough fuel isn't supplied the engine can't handle the extra air.  I don't know enough about your bike to offer a solution, but this is one possible cause.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T15:13:55.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T16:09:11.410" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pool of water has, only today, started to form around the interior ceiling spotlight panel between the driver and passenger seats of my 2008 Zafira. It dripped on to the seats for a while after driving the car, but has since stopped; it's still raining as heavy as it was earlier. The only reason I'm thinking that it could be my windscreen is because it is sealed almost right above where this spotlight panel is situated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no sunroof in the car, and the aerial is located to the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What exactly should I be looking for to locate the source of this&#xA;leak?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely to be the windscreen or should I look elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it easy to remove the spotlight panel? Should I do this to see if&#xA;I can find the source of the leak behind it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I do find the source of the leak, would I be able to temporarily&#xA;repair it before taking it to a garage? Would Duct tape work? Perhaps&#xA;a sealant similar to what you would use in a bathroom?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other information would be greatly appreciated as I imagine I haven't asked the correct questions. My knowledge of cars is fairly limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is due to the Zafira recalls, which my car is part of, but not getting seen until the 14th Dec. I'm worried that this leak could mess with the electrics and possibly start a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13494" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:58:41.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:58:41.453" Title="2008 Opel Zafira possible windscreen leak" Tags="|vauxhall|opel|water-leak|zafira|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T17:23:09.797" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla that recently had its front and rear engine mount replaced. After they were replaced, the car has been vibrating in idle as well as in gear while stopped. What may be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13496" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T14:50:00.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:13:23.787" Title="Vibration when at idle and in gear" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-05T18:30:34.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22926" CreationDate="2015-12-03T19:08:15.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me that your transmission is going. The problem is that the gearing is probably loosing teeth and not engaging fully. I would recommend taking it into a shop to figure out the exact problem so you know for sure. If anything it could be doing more damage than you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T19:08:15.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22945" CreationDate="2015-12-03T19:32:55.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Screw in your air screw which is the small one next to the idol screw. And then turn out 2 and a half turns, should bring it back to stock and then you can adjust it from there and then find the sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T19:32:55.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T19:46:23.237" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2007 Acura RDX (base) with 103k miles.. When I parked my car at work today, I couldn't remove the key - the key would push in but I cannot turn it to the LOCK (0) position. At lunch, I ran to Lowe's for lock lube and a screwdriver, since I didn't have one in the car, and remove the plastic surrounding the column. When I removed the bottom part, I don't recall exactly what I did but the pressure I put on the key allowed the key to turn to lock and I was able to pull it out real quick.. however, the key is now stuck again.. I cleaned it but I had to get back to work. Here are some more details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can hear &quot;clicks&quot; when moving the shifter to different gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When in (P)ark, the doors unlock (as programmed) and the instrument panel lights up (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery in the key has been dead for sometime because the actuator in the driver's side door broke a few years ago.. no big deal 2+ years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car starts without issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I turn the car to &quot;ON&quot; the green &quot;D&quot; lights up as well as the red &quot;P&quot; (or whatever gear I am in) I do not know if this is normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated and if there is a way to override the lock so my battery won't die just to get through the weekend that would be great to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13499" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T21:32:10.953" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T21:32:10.953" Title="2007 Acura RDX (base) key wont turn to LOCK (0) position" Tags="|acura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22963" CreationDate="2015-12-03T19:47:56.733" Score="5" ViewCount="16393" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wiper blade doesn't cover all the way down to the corner.  I had my windshield replaced last year and have also tried replacing the wiper blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of it with rain on the spot where it would normally be clean:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZsBj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZsBj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T12:12:48.050" Title="Why don't wipers clean the entire windshield" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T20:07:35.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1449" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Volvo s40 2.4i&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my HG the other day (I've done a few before with no problems). I was very careful marking everything. Locking the cams together with a cam locking tool specific for Volvo. And so on and so on. I put it all back together and everything went smoothly and aligned perfectly. Though I did not check for interference by turning the crank by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned it on and LOUD &quot;KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK..&quot; maybe at a speed of 4 knocks/sec. I turned the car off. And noticed the engine was smoking from the exhaust manifold side. The only thought I had was &quot;I screwed up the timing and hit the valves! Nooooooooooo!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to try and diagnose after looking around the car and finding nothing I decided to start the car again and quickly try to find out where the noise was coming from. I started the car no problem and when I got to the engine smoke started coming out again so I turned it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out spark plugs and turned the crank by hand and it doesn't seem to have any added resistance anywhere in the cycle. I stuck an inspection camera down in the spark plug holes (not the combustion chamber as it didn't fit past the spark plug hole) but didn't see anything unusual. I stuck a magnetic pickup tool in the combustion chamber to try and see if I maybe dropped a tool in there without realizing, but nope. Also I am assuming if my valves were hit and bent then my car would probably have died and refused to turn on the next time. Not sure if this is correct but a car with no compression can't run. I guess I should check my compression, but I'm just afraid of turning my car over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my thinking now is that it is a bad exhaust manifold leak. I've never heard knocking like that before and I really doubt it is rod knock. The car was running pretty good before I noticed the HG problem. The HG never got too bad, I caught it pretty early. Compression before the HG change was 150 in all cylinders except for the 5th which was at 120.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smoke I'm assuming is coming out of the leak. But that knock is the only thing I feel like I'm forcing to fit the symptoms. It's loud and is knocking not ticking IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can an exhaust leak cause a loud knocking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="13102" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T22:32:07.423" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T05:11:18.003" Title="Bad exhaust leak or valve interference after HG change?" Tags="|exhaust|noise|head-gasket|timing|knock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22961" CreationDate="2015-12-03T21:30:30.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are showing is usually caused from the wiper arm not having enough down force to keep the blade on the entire swipe. This could be caused from the spring (which does this) losing its tension. The part of the windshield which you've shown is especially susceptible to this because of how the glass angles over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this scenario is right, there are two ways you can possibly &quot;fix&quot; this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the end of your wiper arm and bend it slightly towards the windshield. This will cause the tension spring at the base of the wiper arm to be stretched just a little more and thus cause more down pressure on the wiper. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the wiper arm. I don't think you can purchase &quot;just&quot; the tension spring, but you could see. Replacing either is going to be by far more expensive than the first option I've listed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a possibility that the wiper arm has been bent back a little bit, so the first option would help in that scenario as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T12:46:04.113" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T12:46:04.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22946" CreationDate="2015-12-03T22:36:56.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This absolutely is the high pressure fuel injection pump for the diesel engine. I cannot tell for sure, but it looks as though this is a three cylinder engine (?) as I can only see two fuel lines coming out the right side of the injector pump. I'm assuming the third one is on the back side of this, behind the fuel line coming from the fuel tank (larger line in the middle). (NOTE: Actually, now that I'm looking closer, I can see the three lines which are linked together on the side of the block going upwards away from the pump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T22:36:56.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22953" CreationDate="2015-12-03T23:17:47.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a manual transmission, it could very easily be one of the linkage balls is broke or missing. This is a very common malady with these cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T23:17:47.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2015-12-04T00:57:31.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2014 Civic the ECON button is most efficient when driving long distances. When driving distances longer than 30 miles I average 37-40mpg with it on versus approximately 33mpg with it off. I'm a daily driver of a minimum of 50 miles per day and definitely notice a difference with the ECON on. I agree that it does make the car a little sluggish but if you drive a lot you will definitely see the benefits of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13502" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T00:57:31.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16517" CreationDate="2015-12-04T01:12:22.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;start from the outside in:  first check your lug nuts to make sure they are all tight.  loose lug nuts can cause the rim to wabble.  jack up the car, Remove the lug nuts, and remove the tire and check the brake pads for wear.  You also want to feel your rotors from behind.  cop a feel at the back of the rotor disk slide your finger straight up and down to feel for any mounds.  The rear of the rotor surface should not have any mounds on it/ on either side. If you feel any mounds then it is time to replace that rotor.  Rotor dust can build into mounds when pads are constantly changed for years but the rotors are not changed un seen dust will build under the pads and slowly mound up and begin to create grooves into your pads. This could happen on just one side or both but usually happens on the inside under-carriage where the most dirt attacks. Chek out this video for more Information.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlbFFq60Tec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlbFFq60Tec&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T01:12:22.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22975" CreationDate="2015-12-04T03:39:32.093" Score="2" ViewCount="52448" Body="&lt;p&gt;My F-150 '04 has a 5.4L Triton. I believe this is a pretty accurate diagram of the serpentine belt. I want to have a better understanding of what's under then hood. I'm pretty familiar with the basics of an internal combustion engine, but not as much with some of the more automotive parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0afZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0afZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone give a brief explanation of the &quot;Idler Pulleys&quot;, and why do I have 3 of them? Also, what is the &quot;A/C Clutch&quot;? Lastly, why does it say &quot;Generator&quot;, when I know I have an alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T15:00:07.867" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T18:32:46.080" Title="What does my serpentine belt run?" Tags="|engine|ford|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T04:56:23.443" Score="3" ViewCount="4478" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son owns a 2005 Honda Accord coupe and the passenger side headlight will only work in the high beam setting. I have replaced the bulb already and it does not make a difference. We have checked the fuses, and there are no  blown fuses for the headlight circuit. I have read that a relay could be one cause of the problem, but I am not sure on where that is located. Is it in the fuse box under the hood or located elsewhere? I know that contacts in relays can become corroded, but I am not sure that is the problem. Does this seem to be a common problem with this type of Honda?  Thanks  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13504" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T19:12:12.573" LastActivityDate="2022-04-14T17:27:31.960" Title="2005 Honda Accord coupe low beam not working" Tags="|honda|accord|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22962" CreationDate="2015-12-04T05:11:18.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was indeed an exhaust leak. One of the exhaust gaskets wasn't on one of the studs so it didn't seal properly. I fixed it and the knocking is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it didn't get rid of the smoke completely, which is now confirmed as exhaust gases. I hope the manifold isn't warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T05:11:18.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22970" CreationDate="2015-12-04T05:57:40.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlight relays are located in the underhood fuse box. The relay is not a common failure, also the relay feeds both side low beam lights so it is not the failure in this case.  The ground wire is common to the high and low beam filaments, so again this is not the issue. Check for power on both sides of fuse #6 in the underhood fuse box. If power is OK there check for at least 12 volts at the red/green wire at the headlight bulb connector. &#xA;Also test the new bulb, new does not guarantee good. Move the working left bulb to the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T05:57:40.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22981" CreationDate="2015-12-04T06:16:30.373" Score="4" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;*I am sorry if this seems too basic for you guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understood is that fuel and air enters the cylinder, combustion occurs, Piston expands generating work and torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rpm should match the Rpm of the tires or at least match it's ratio, the torque as well matches the torque on the tires or it's ratio, depending on which gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is it the if you come to complete stop your rpm will remain between 500 and 1500. (I am talking sedan 4 cylinder cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how does acceleration occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I have made my question clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13505" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T14:53:58.703" Title="What is the theory behind rpm and torque?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-04T14:26:58.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2015-12-04T06:38:42.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idler Pulleys are generally used to either provide constant tension or make the belt wrap around more of the next pulley, which equals more contact area around that next pulley. An idler pulley, by definition, does not drive a device.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The A/C clutch is used to engage and disengage the A/C compressor so as to provide a more-or-less constant temperature inside the passenger cabin. It's much less complicated than trying to engage or disengage that particular pulley. Another way to look at is that with the A/C clutch disengaged, that pulley is essentially another idler pulley.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;An alternator is a type of generator, one that specifically provides AC current. But to describe an alternator as a generator is not inaccurate. To put it another way, an alternator is a sub-type of a generator.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Here's a diagram I found. It may not be exactly the same as your set up, but it should give you the basic idea.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZphNx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZphNx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T06:38:42.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2015-12-04T06:55:16.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one of two mechanisms that sit between the engine and transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a clutch/manual transmission. The clutch connects and disconnects the engine from the transmission. The clutch is effectively a direct drive, so if you come to a stop without disconnecting the clutch then the engine will stall. Accelerating from a stop looks like this; The engine is idling at a stop with the clutch disconnected, the driver raises the rpm slightly and slowly engages the clutch, as the clutch engages it will slip for a second or two to get the car moving, when the clutch fully engages that one to one connection is made and full acceleration can be achieved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is a torque converter/automatic transmission. The simplest definition of a torque converter is a fluid coupling. This coupling can tolerate up to between 1000 and 2000 rpm of slip. This slip allows sitting at a stop with the engine idling at 500 to 1500 rpm. When taking off from a stop the engine is idling. Hitting the gas causes the rpm to climb, there comes a point where the torque converter stalls which is the condition of reaching the limit of the slip, at this point the engine provides power to the wheels to get it moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T06:55:16.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22978" CreationDate="2015-12-04T07:37:54.130" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lookin' at my 04 Ford 150's 5.4L Triton. What is this engine component? I'm sure it has to do with the 4wd?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4mjj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4mjj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UP5NV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UP5NV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T14:56:00.933" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T14:56:00.933" Title="What is this in my 5.4 triton?" Tags="|ford|part-identification|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22977" CreationDate="2015-12-04T08:35:28.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the anti lock brake module or ABS. While it is in you engine compartment it has nothing to do with the engine. The reason it has a 4x4 sticker on it is that ABS for 4x4 vehicles is slightly different than the ABS on regular two wheel drive vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T08:41:07.527" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T08:41:07.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T14:01:00.907" Score="1" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Corolla. The check engine light came on and the car does not accelerate. It starts, but it won't go faster than 5 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13508" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T06:51:59.903" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T06:51:59.903" Title="Check engine light 2005 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|cel|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-20T03:36:49.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2015-12-04T14:53:58.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is it the if you come to complete stop your rpm will remain between 500 and 1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I am assuming you are talking about an automatic transmission (AT). The major part of the AT which allows this to happen is the torque converter (TC). The heading of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; sums this up very nicely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In modern usage, a torque converter is generally a type of fluid coupling (but also being able to multiply torque) that is used to transfer rotating power from a prime mover, such as an internal combustion engine or electric motor, to a rotating driven load. The torque converter normally takes the place of a mechanical clutch in a vehicle with an automatic transmission, allowing the load to be separated from the power source. It is usually located between the engine's flexplate and the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key characteristic of a torque converter is its ability to multiply torque when there is a substantial difference between input and output rotational speed, thus providing the equivalent of a reduction gear. Some of these devices are also equipped with a temporary locking mechanism which rigidly binds the engine to the transmission when their speeds are nearly equal, to avoid slippage and a resulting loss of efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19038/4152&quot;&gt;This answer I wrote&lt;/a&gt; describes how a TC works, so may be of value here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how does acceleration occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you used the engine tag, I'll start at the front of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt; - The vehicle needs a power source to move the vehicle and to power the different accessories (alternator, power steering pump, brakes, etc) throughout the vehicle. When designing a vehicle, engineers design an engine which not only fits in the space provided, but also design it so it will produce &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/12754/4152&quot;&gt;torque/horsepower&lt;/a&gt; specific to its needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission&lt;/strong&gt; - The transmission allows the vehicle to utilize the torque/horsepower of an engine to full advantage through torque advantage and through reducing engine speed at higher engine speeds. (NOTE: I'm including the torque converter/clutch as part of the transmission.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Differential&lt;/strong&gt; - Allows for a change in direction of the rotation produced from the engine (through the transmission) as well as a means of gear reduction/torque multiplication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt; - This is where the rubber meets the road ... &lt;em&gt;literally&lt;/em&gt;. Tires also create a torque reduction with regards to their overall diameter. The taller the tire, the more torque it takes to turn the wheel/tire assembly. Again pulling from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque, moment, or moment of force (see the terminology below) is the tendency of a force to rotate an object about an axis,[1] fulcrum, or pivot. Just as a force is a push or a pull, a torque can be thought of as a twist to an object ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosely speaking, torque is a measure of the turning force on an object such as a bolt or a flywheel. For example, pushing or pulling the handle of a wrench connected to a nut or bolt produces a torque (turning force) that loosens or tightens the nut or bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt; (cont.) - If looking at tires from the side, you were to draw a line between the center of the tire to the ground (radius of the tire), this then becomes your rod length. As this rod becomes longer (increase tire radius), it would become easier to turn the tire by moving it directly (rolling the tire directly by hand). Conversely, if you are twisting the rod from the center point, as the drive axles do, it becomes harder to turn the axle as the rod becomes longer. The differential's torque multiplication helps overcome the tire's torque reduction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine produces the torque needed to motivate the vehicle. When sitting at a stop, the engine is happily purring along at idle. It can do this because either the TC or the clutch has allowed it to be decoupled from the rest of the drive train. As you prepare to pull away from the stop, you press on the gas pedal and the engine RPMs increase. If you have an automatic transmission, the torque converter allows slippage between the engine and transmission while still transmitting torque and multiplying it at the same time. The TC will allow the slippage until it reaches its &lt;em&gt;stall speed&lt;/em&gt;. An excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bankspower.com/techarticles/show/10-Understanding-Stall-Speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banks Power website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even under light loads, a vehicle with an automatic transmission will start moving as soon as you take your foot off the brake. The stall speed comes into play under all load conditions. When we talk about stall speed, we're referring to engine RPM. If the vehicle isn't moving by the time the impeller reaches the stall speed, either it will start to move, or the engine RPM will no longer increase. In other words, stall speed is the engine RPM at which the torque converter transfers the power of the engine to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vehicle's engine is designed with a certain torque/power band so that, along with the transmission, the engine will be allowed to operate within that torque band to allow the vehicle to move. If you try to apply too much load (taking off from a light with a standard transmission, for instance) without enough engine RPMs, you'll stall the engine (NOTE: Engine stall has nothing to do with TC stall) and the vehicle won't move. Slipping the clutch in this situation is analogous to how the torque converter allows a slippage. By doing so, the engine is allowed to get into its designed toque/power band and the vehicle can then start moving. Once the vehicle is moving and the engine operates above the TC's stall speed, the engine is then motivating the input of the transmission at the same general speed as it is running (there is a bit of slippage there until TC lockup ... but that's another story entirely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T14:53:58.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:10:18.963" Score="12" ViewCount="4931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not generally a 'car person', so hopefully I can explain this well enough to get some help here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sending messages to an OBD-II device, I receive one response in most cars I've tested. However, with cars that apparently have more than one ECU chip, I get a response from each of them. For example, if I send a &lt;code&gt;01 0C&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PID command&lt;/a&gt; to a vehicle with 3 ECU chips, I receive 3 responses which are generally very similar but still different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;code&gt;01 00&lt;/code&gt; command is supposed to return 4 bytes that states the supported PIDs of the vehicle, but this also returns 4 bytes for each ECU -- one being a fully fleshed out 4 bytes with several flags on and off, while the others seem to only have a handful of flags turned on (these flags so far seem to always be flags that are included in the 'main' response, but I'm unsure if this is always the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SENT: 01 00&#xA;&#xA;RECEIVED:&#xA;&#xA;00 BF BF AC D3 - This response has the most binary flags turned on&#xA;00 98 18 80 11 - 8 flags on here&#xA;00 98 18 80 13 - 9 flags on here&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two lines consist of flags that are also flagged within the first line, but the line 3 has one additional flag that line 2 does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that perhaps there is a single ECU that qualifies as the 'primary' chip that I should be listening to when I'm sending commands, and (I think) I understand that I can use a CAN ID mask/filter to only pay attention to the ones I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: Is there really a 'primary ECU' that I should pay attention to, or are all of these responses equally important? If there's a primary one I need to be targeting, is there a command I can send to determine which is the 'most significant'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles tested on:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2011 Chevy Cruze               [2 ECUs]&#xA;2015 BMW M5                    [3 ECUs]&#xA;2015 Range Rover Autobiography [3 ECUs]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13509" LastEditorUserId="13509" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T21:02:30.570" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T10:02:28.807" Title="Received frames from vehicles with multiple ECU chips" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22980" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:44:04.903" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a Manual Transmission or an Automatic?  First you should check to see if your brakes are not locked up.  When you turn the car on and press the brake is it really hard to get the pedal to go down?  If your pedal goes all the way down and you get a whaut sound when releasing the brake pedal? You could have a bad Power Brake Booster which could cause your brake pistons to close but will not allow them to retract thus causing you to accelerate more to pickup speed because the rotors are heating up and swelling against your already locked brake pads &amp;amp; pistons. if you have a Manual transmission your problem could be A worn Clutch.  If it is an Automatic Transmission your problem could be your transmission torque converter.  There is no true diagnosis here without an on sight inspection of the vehicle.  I urge you to watch some videos on the subjects I mentioned here. A good idea is to purchase a cheap $50. vehicle scanner at your local Auto Parts Store.  I keep one in my car incase anything goes wrong I can plug it into my vehicle wherever I'm at and just use my phone to Google the scanner codes for their definitions which will tell me what's wrong with the car. This is how I help Friends, neighbors, and drivers on the road.  The cheap scanners will only give you the code but the more expensive scanners can go as far as telling you what part you need to replace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T15:56:11.070" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T15:56:11.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11240" CreationDate="2015-12-04T16:05:46.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check to see if your vehicle has what is called a GOVERNOR switch.  Did you purchase the car new or used?  if you bought it used, did it come from a rental lot?  Rental lots used to put Govern controlers on their vehicles to keep them from speeding.  The Governor Control can be adjusted to allow more Throttle freedom for acceleration.  Speed Govern Controls were used by choice of trucking business owners to keep their trucks from speeding to avoid accidents that always incurred more expenses on the company's finances.  Hope this information was of some help to you.  You just might have a bad Torque Converter inside your Transmission.  If you DIY, this is really not a difficult fix if you have the time, tools, and ability to follow directions by video&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T16:12:30.387" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T16:12:30.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22036" CreationDate="2015-12-04T16:29:25.460" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oxygen Sensor:  Your Oxygen (O2) Sensor has a thermal sensing tip that must reach a high Temperature of about 600 degrees for your car to start normally otherwise you will get the same symptoms you are getting right now with your car.  Have your car diagnosed.  You may need to replace one or more of your exhaust / emissions sensors.  Some vehicles have more than one and perhaps up to 5 sensors but for the most part as far as I am familiar with.. the most would be 3 but your vehicle might have only 2 sensors.  I did not research the sensors for your type vehicle and so I will not promise the number of sensors on your particular car.  You also want to ensure that your exhaust pipe is in good condition with no holes around any the sensors.  Holes around the sensors  will not allow the sensor tip to heat up fast enough which could also slow down the heating of your sensor and the starting of the vehicle.  Check out videos on replacing (O2) sensor and how (O2) sensor works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T16:29:25.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22961" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:33:23.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bend the end of the windshield wiper to fit that little spot, should have better downforce on it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T17:33:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-05T02:18:58.120" Score="5" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;My petcock is leaking I originally thought it was internal do I took it apart inspected all the gaskets and seals and have it a good cleaning after reassembly it was still leaking and after a better inspection I noticed it was coming from where it mounts to the tank and there is nothing separating the bolt holes and fuel stems am I missing some thing? (Rhetorical) 2003 Kawasaki ninja ex500r&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13512" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T06:17:36.037" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:10:01.000" Title="Motorcycle petcock leaking around bolts to tank" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|kawasaki|petcock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22988" CreationDate="2015-12-05T06:15:10.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an O-Ring around the base of the mounting surface that rests against the fuel tank itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJlHc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJlHc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;O-Ring' that you can see in the picture could be the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be sure and rebuilt the petcock entirely and replace the vacuum valve diaphragm as well as the diaphram body O-Ring you can purchase one of these rebuilt kits specifically for you make, the image below is example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uYla7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uYla7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you google &quot;2003 Kawasaki ninja ex500r petcock rebuild&quot; you can see a few options to purchase.  It's relatively simple just be wary of the spring shooting out of the diaphragm body as you disassemble it.  Most kits are less than $20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T22:10:01.000" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:10:01.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22947" CreationDate="2015-12-05T06:31:34.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a fine grit rubbing compound and a buffing wheel to smooth out the clear coat, which actually has the scratches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the process of painting many vehicles is to buff out the clear coat once the paint job is complete.  The clear coat provides a clear protective layer for the paint and can be scratched lightly and repaired over time by using rubbing compound and the buffing wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would put the buffing wheel on the end of a drill.  This is what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3HoH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T3HoH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can goto google and search rubbing compound.  The rubbing compound would need to be a low 'grit' level, meaning the particles should be smaller in order to remove the scratches you have.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your scratches could be made by a buffing wheel using a very high grit level of rubbing compound which would put scratches into the clear coat rather than removing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, use low grit compound and be patient with your buffing.  Follow it up with a waxing and it should improve the appearance dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone will probably post a better step by step methodology with grit levels and what not.  I've really just brushed over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T09:18:52.257" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T09:18:52.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2015-12-05T09:28:45.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this post has been around a while, so I will just add some useful info for anyone that is thinking about getting some jumper cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first, what I recommend is at lease 4 gauge, 20 foot, or better jumper cables. If you have the money, try to get all copper wire jumper cables. If you don't have the money for all copper, then get at least 2 gauge cables. The reason I say this, most jumper cables sold now, especially the cheaper ones, ane what they call copper clad. What that means is, the jumper cables are made out of an aluminum cable/wire, with a very thin, copper coating on the outside. More then 99% of the wire is aluminum. Because of this, a 4 gauge all copper wire will give about the same amps as a 2 gauge copper clad aluminum wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other reason why the all copper wires are better is because the all copper ones are more durable then the copper clad versions. While I am in no way saying that the copper clad version is not durable at all, the aluminum in it can corrode over time, where this is less likely to happen with the all copper ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons that I say to get at least 4 gauge is this. Once a vehicle is started, the alternator should produce enough power to keep the vehicle running, no matter what kind of condition the battery is in. If you get a vehicle that the battery is just about completely dead, or does not hold much of a charge, the 4 gauge ones should be able to get that vehicle started with no problem, and then the alternator should continue to charge the battery, along with keep the vehicle running. But if you use some cheap 10 or 12 gauge cables, you will have to wait a while for the battery to charge up enough to start the vehicle, before it will start. Those thin jumper cables will add very little power to what is in the vehicle, so you have to have the power charged up in the battery to get it started. If that battery does not hold a charge, then the thin, cheap, 10 or 12 gauge ones, will never be able to get the other vehicle started because they can not transfer enough amps to get it started. So you will want something that will be able to get the vehicle started, no matter the condition of the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as other have stated, the 20 foot length should give you plenty of length to get to the battery on both vehicles. You never want to be stuck in a position where you have to push a vehicle, and move it, just so you can get another vehicle close enough to jump it. This can especially be problematic if you are on a hill, or in the snow, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for any of those jumper boxes that plug into your cigarette lighter. Those will only be good if you have a slightly low battery, and have plenty of time to wait for the power to be transferred from the box to the battery. Also, dont forget, if you have to turn your ignition key to the on position to get that socket to work, that also means that you are going to waste a lot of that power, to power the stuff in the car when the switch is turned on. Those type of jumpers, while good for a slightly low battery, and if have the time (which can be a good 20 minutes or more). But, if your battery is, say half dead, or more, then those types will never give your battery enough power to get it started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way. Most regular jump starters, whether it be one that you connect straight to the battery, or though the cigarette lighter socket in the car, all have what they call SLA batteries in them. What this is, is basically, the same exact type of battery that is in your car, but in a spill proof container. SLA stands for, sealed lead acid. Now take into consideration that the battery is also in a carrying case with lots of plastic around it too, plus any circuitry, etc. Now compare that to the size of your battery in the vehicle. It (the jumper) is many times smaller, which just goes to show you, just how little they have in power. If you need numbers, some of those jumpers can hold as little as 7ah of power.. while a small car battery will start at around 50ah of power. The higher the number, the more power it can store. That means, a vehicles car battery can be 7 times more powerful, and can around as much as 14 times more powerful for larger vehicle. This is why they can be useful, but also is very limited too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also the reason why, you can not rely on them, if your car battery is too dead too. This is a good reason why, you will not be able to replace a good set of jumper cables with a cheap jumper box. and with jumper cables, as long as you have a vehicle there that is running, you have an, almost, unlimited source of power. But jumper boxes.. Once the battery is dead, it is useless until you spend a few hours recharging it. Not to mention, because it is a battery in it, the jumper boxes, are only good as long as the battery is good too. You accidentally hit the button and turn the light on.. Don't notice it.. guess what.. When you go to use it, that jumper box is going to be dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, while jumper boxes do have their uses, as do cheap/thin jumper cables, you really can not replace a good set of jumper cables with either of them. At the least, you should have a good set.. and if you still want the jumper box, get that in addition to the jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13516" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T09:28:45.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22999" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:20:14.110" Score="4" ViewCount="26579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a gas tank that is leaking a few drips at a time. It doesn't seem like much of a problem except when the tank is at half full or past, and I can quickly lose 2-3 gallons overnight from the dripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked under the car and tried to tape the leak shut as a temporary fix last night with no luck. The tape was too wet from the gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am letting it drain so I can cover it with something even as a temporary fix, but I want to know if there is a good sealant anyone recommends using and how it should be used on a vehicle with a leak like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on letting the tank drain so the dripping stops. Like I said, it's a very small leak, so when there is only a quarter of a tank, it doesn't drip. I can't fill it up though and it's very frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR: Gas tank has rust damage and is leaking. How can I seal it and what should I use to seal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13520" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T12:24:37.587" Title="Leaking gas tank from rust - needs sealed. What materials should I use and how should I do it?" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|leak|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-05T19:41:29.470" Score="3" ViewCount="20838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add powered USB ports to my car to charge various devices with. My plan is to order these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0094DZPF4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB soldering connectors&lt;/a&gt; fuse holders, 3amp fuses, and some wire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would find a hot wire somewhere before the dash panel, probably a connection from the 12v cigarette lighter, splice wire from there and run wire to fuse holder, which would hold the 3amp fuse, then wire from the fuse holder to the positive lead on the usb soldering connector, and then a ground from the positive lead to a ground mount somewhere in the car. Then simply put the soldering connector in the dash panel somehow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use one 3amp fuse for a pair of ports, and would have 2 pairs, one in the front and one in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my questions are, what size wire should I use for this? Do I need any diodes or anything? Do I have the right fuse size? Should I have a resistor or anything of that nature? Does everything else sound like it should work fine?  I'd also imagine that the current would already be DC since it's using the car battery, but I could be wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a ton of knowledge on electronics but I feel like I have enough to get this simple task done. That's why I want make sure every thing sounds right and don't end up messing something up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13522" OwnerDisplayName="AllanJ" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T13:20:47.170" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:20:47.170" Title="What gauge wire should I use for adding USB ports to my car?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22998" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:02:30.400" Score="2" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Rover 25 started overheating a couple of days ago. It has had the head gasket replaced already some years ago, and I suspect this might be the beginning of another faiuler, so I'm going to take it to the shop next week. What I would like to know is, can I put water in the expansion tank as a preventive measure for the next couple of days ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13521" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T20:09:42.753" Title="2001 Rover 25 Overheating" Tags="|engine|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22997" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:09:42.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use water, but I'd highly suggest you get some 50/50 to tide you over. That also depends on how much coolant it's losing. If it's a small amount, distilled water would work just fine as long as the temperatures are not getting too low (sub 0°F). Either way, you'd want to make sure you pay attention to the amount in the surge tank and keep it up to where it's supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T20:09:42.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22994" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:49:53.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Paulster2 and George also, but when you can't afford the new tank, a good fix might be a product like JB Weld or some similar product. I fixed a pinhole in a 135 gallon slip tank about 4 years ago with the JB. Still holding. Just do a good job of preparation, sandpaper or whatever you got and try it. Nothing to lose. Hope it works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T20:49:53.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:19:49.433" Score="3" ViewCount="3610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3 way cigarette lighter splitter that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Input: 12VDC, 8A&#xA;  Output 3 Ports: 12VDC up to 8A&#xA;  Fuse: 8A, 250V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean it outputs 8A per port or, does it mean if the load of all 3 ports combined exceeds 8A then the fuse will blow? (i.e. the 8A is divided between the 3 ports depending on the load from each device).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13763" OwnerDisplayName="Garrett Burke" LastEditorUserId="3997" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T00:02:55.337" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:49.420" Title="How do cigarette lighter splitters work?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23000" CreationDate="2015-12-05T20:41:40.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical auto cigarette splitters are simply three connectors in parallel. Nothing but wire and the connectors. Zero circuitry aside from &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; the fuse. The 8A is shared between the three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you have one that's much better quality than the one seen below. It has undersized cabling, and no fuse. The white wire is heat protection as that connector is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to be used for a cigarette light.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4WNEN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4WNEN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a teardown of a fancier splitter, that has individual on/off buttons, and a cheap 12V to 5V &quot;usb&quot; converter builtin. They explain the circuit pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaoLlMw40Rc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaoLlMw40Rc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" OwnerDisplayName="cde" LastEditorUserId="3997" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T21:57:21.450" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T21:57:21.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:22:13.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wiring a usb port directly to a cars 12V wire will fry a usb device. Never do this.&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to do this, you should go with a 12v to 5V regulator. Preferably, a dedicated car usb charger. Then you have a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can remove from its case, and attach it directly where you want the usb port to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use a usb extension cable, either normal or one meant for mounting in a car mod.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can desolder and extend the usb port as needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option is simplest. They tend to have mounting clips, and no soldering needed. Various styles too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjt9X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rjt9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvIlT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvIlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any modern phone, you want to extend all four usb pins from a dedicated charger, or they will refuse to charge at high speed or at all. &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.adafruit.com/minty-boost/icharging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a simplified explanation on why using just a 12v to 5v charger wouldn't work well.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For wiring from your chosen 12V wore to the usb charger, 18 AWG wire would be best. The extra fuse is not necessary,  as the cigarette lighter circuit should already be fused at a reasonable 10 Amps.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Frankly I found that slim usb chargers that flush mount to a cigarette outlet to be the easiest. Unless you need the outlet for something or its in a weird place... &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastEditorUserId="3997" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T21:41:27.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T21:41:27.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32915" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:54:27.720" Score="1" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a manual transmission car, when a driver wants to go below the speed the car travels at in first gear with no added gas using the gas pedal, my first driving instructor told me you ease off the clutch, reducing the amount of power from the engine transferred to the axle. [&lt;em&gt;update&lt;/em&gt; - several people have since told me that this isn't a good practice, and it's not the only thing he taught me that has turned out to not be a great idea...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an automatic car, to achieve the same effect, you push the foot brake. This bugs me for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this constantly grinding the brakes? I'm in a city with bad traffic where I'm often crawling at 3mph with my foot on the foot brake. Should I be worried about excessive brake pad wear compared to what I'd expect in a manual?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At first I couldn't understand why the car wasn't stalling - I now understand that automatic transmissions use fluid rather than the contact friction of clutches which allows slippage. This makes me wonder if what is actually &lt;em&gt;happening&lt;/em&gt; is similar to a manual in that less power is transferred to the axle and it's not actually the brakes that are taking the strain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is driving at such slow speeds in an automatic putting extra strain on the brake pads compared to what a manual would be doing, and if not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T17:18:14.693" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T22:38:29.373" Title="What is happens to the brakes when an automatic drives below the speed for 1st gear with no added gas?" Tags="|brakes|automatic-transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22994" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:01:42.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have no money, the simplest way to get it fixed is to use a stainless metal screw (or galvanized if you cannot find stainless). Simply screw it into where the hole is at. When you insert the screw, the metal of the tank will form around the screw. This is an &quot;old timers trick&quot;. Back in the day when a tank would get some water in it (because of bad gas), the water would settle to the bottom of the tank (water being lighter than gasoline), a person would drill a small hole at the lowest most point of the tank and let the water flow out. Then you'd screw a small metal screw up into the tank to seal the hole. All I can say is, it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will plug the hole with minimal stress. Most liquid or epoxy type glues/fillers can be washed away, diluted, or damaged by gasoline which is a pretty good solvent in its own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, if you go this approach, you'll probably still want to plan to replace your tank at some point as there will be more holes to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T22:01:42.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23003" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:12:30.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what brakes were designed to do, either slow or stop a vehicle. It doesn't matter if it's a manual or automatic transmission. This will incur some wear, but really it is just minor in the grand scheme of things. Slowing you down at slow speeds does not create any appreciable amount of frictional heat, but it does generate some. If I were to guess, stopping a car at full tilt from 60mph is going to generate more wear on the brakes in one single incident than slowing your vehicle as you've suggested would create in several months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T01:08:11.813" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:11.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23000" CreationDate="2015-12-05T22:59:39.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum total current that the splitter can supply is 8 Amps (provided your car cigarette lighter socket is fused and wired to be able to provide at least 8 amps). Some examples to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CB radio into plug 1 uses 1 amp and peaks at 4 amps (when&#xA;transmitting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GPS into plug 2 uses 1 amp &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inverter into plug 3 uses 5 amps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each one is less than 8 amps, but the total when you don't talk on your CB radio is 7 amps so okay, but not okay when you talk on your CB because then the total is 10 amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it says each one can do up to 8 amps, the whole thing can only do 8 amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you understand :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13523" LastEditorUserId="2987" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T01:08:49.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:49.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2015-12-06T01:18:52.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;ANSWER: Pretty unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect a voltmeter to your ciggy lighter socket, and watch it while starting and running the car.  It will be ~12.5V when the motor is off, up to 14.5V while just started, and once the battery is topped off by the alternator the voltage will drop to around 12.5-13.0V for warm running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try turning your high beams and AC on to see what the voltages do.  At worst case it will be as low as 11V and could drop lower as your battery approaches its end of service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need a 12V/12V converter like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerstream.com/dc12-12-8A-isolated.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.powerstream.com/dc12-12-8A-isolated.htm&lt;/a&gt; which will smooth out all those nasty voltages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring the socket straight to the battery helps but won't make it a perfect 12V input.  If your vehicle is dual 12V battery then wiring to the accessory battery can also help, but actions like winching will sag the voltage massively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other option is a 12V SLA battery and a true-online UPS circuit, so the computer is always running off the UPS, and its 12V battery is charged by the car.  Downside is the weight penalty and the extra size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:18:52.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22982" CreationDate="2015-12-06T02:08:09.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;CAN does not work like you think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN is not module based, it is message based. No module speaks directly to any other module. In CAN a module generates a message with an address, that address identifies the data that will be contained in the message. Also the address gives the importance of the message. The lower the address the higher the priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the ABS will transmit the vehicle speed. Every other module that needs the data will read it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no module that is more important than any other, it's the message priority that is important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T02:08:09.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22994" CreationDate="2015-12-06T02:23:19.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently repaired a tank with a similar situation.  This tank had several holes.  it seems that the tank had been welded and spatter from the welding landed on the tank causing multiple micro holes.  I emptied the tank, sanded the area really well, cleaned the area with alcohol and used a good amount of Quick Steel from my local Auto Parts Store.  I kneaded the epoxy paste until lit was nice and soft and then used a metal scraper to spread the tank with a nice even coat.  I let it cure for a couple of hours and that's it.  so far it's been 1 month and no leaks nor any signs of any possible returns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T02:23:19.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2015-12-06T02:44:37.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you know that changing your Oxygen (o2) Sensor could improve your gas mileage?  Poor gas mileage could be an indication that you will need to check on your o2 sensor soon.  And don't forget the faithful  periodic &quot;Tune Up&quot;..W/ a new fuel filter installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T02:44:37.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21233" CreationDate="2015-12-06T06:40:21.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Amazon's system and the O'Reilly parts store system said the 21 inches would not fit. But both systems said the other brands' 21 inches would fit. At the store clerk's suggestion, I just tried the Bosch 21 inches A and B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work great. Way better than the other brands that fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why Amazon recommended 20OE for my car. The 21s fit perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T06:40:21.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23083" CreationDate="2015-12-06T09:52:50.013" Score="4" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried to replace my 2010 Legacy's stereo today and found out that there is some weird bolts (refer to attached image) holding the stereo brackets. I can not get that bolt out.  Its got a head that I have never seen before. Can anybody tell me a tool to remove this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Could not find any matching tool to take it out properly. Had to cut the bolt head with a rotary tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eizp0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eizp0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13529" LastEditorUserId="13529" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T20:58:50.830" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:58:50.830" Title="2010 Subaru Legacy weird bolt holding stereo" Tags="|subaru|audio|legacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23012" CreationDate="2015-12-06T12:23:23.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xobKN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xobKN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be a captured bolt ... you won't get the bolt itself out by itself. Look on the back side for a nut to take off, then the whole thing should come out. The hole just below it and the thing protruding through it appear to be an alignment nib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T12:23:23.863" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23019" CreationDate="2015-12-06T13:33:39.420" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a 51 plate, but when I put my number plate in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurocarparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eurocarparts.com/&lt;/a&gt; site; my car is getting identified as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mercedes-Benz ( 2002) &#xA;C Class 2.1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't 51 plate means year 2001 in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13531" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T15:09:14.463" Title="What is the year of my Mercedes C220 car? [UK]" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23017" CreationDate="2015-12-06T14:04:22.493" Score="4" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a &lt;strong&gt;Hero Honda Passion&lt;/strong&gt; 2002 model motorcycle. I have a doubt regarding &lt;strong&gt;clutch and Neutral functionality&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed that most of the time in our city the roads have ups and down so there is no point of engaging the vehicle into gear during slopes because it maintains good speed when I put my bike into Neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today when I went to a mechanic he told me that my clutch plates are worn out. That creates a question in my mind, &lt;em&gt;can using too much Neutral cause worn out clutch plates in the above scenario&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13532" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T19:36:14.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:36:14.817" Title="Does putting vehicle in neutral at slope cause clutch plate spoilage?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|gears|hero-honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3157" CreationDate="2015-12-06T14:28:59.763" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i put in 2 tee's between the heater core lines and connected them . this way you always get hot antifreeze to the thermostate . after a while the air worked it's way out off the heater core .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13533" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T14:28:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23015" CreationDate="2015-12-06T15:00:57.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having your bike in neutral will cause no additional wear on the clutch. When you have your bike in neutral and you have re-engaged the clutch (released the handle), the clutch is fully engaged without any torque being applied to it like it would normally see when in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way a clutch sees wear is when it is slipping. This is when you pull the handle to disengage the clutch and releasing the handle to re-engage it (while in gear). If you are &lt;em&gt;slipping&lt;/em&gt; the clutch (keeping the handle in partially with the clutch partially engaged) a lot of the time, this is where you will see the most wear occur in your clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T15:00:57.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22929" CreationDate="2015-12-06T15:07:33.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Post repair answers to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On my SOHC model, there is a left-side timing belt cover that can be removed without taking any other components out, so you can easily take a look at the camshaft sprocket and with a flashlight you can see back to the seal. The sprocket is definitely in the way (and definitely cannot be removed at this point), but you can see through the large holes in it. To see the whole seal, you can use a large socket wrench (22 mm) to rotate the engine (clockwise) from the crankshaft pulley, which will move the holes. I never did this procedure, but I think it's doable. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Audience says yes, you must replace the belt at least. Makes sense to check the idlers, sprockets, tensioner, and water pump for damage, or just replace the whole assembly. See above comment, my leak didn't contaminate the timing belt assembly at all!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is not an issue on the SOHC models. My left sprocket kept turning a bunch, because it is very annoyingly spring-loaded and needs to be returned to the proper position if knocked out of place. In any case, the trick of wrapping the old timing belt around the cam and crank sprockets and fixing it with two vice grip pliers worked very well, but I wouldn't reuse this belt. Best to have a old belt on hand (get from auto shop) just in case you decide not to replace the belt (which is what I would have done). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This job really wasn't so bad, and I stress that I'm really an amatuer -- it took me about 6 hours, and I was intentionally going slow. The hard parts were 1) removing the cam and crankshaft seals, and 2) installing the final timing components. My trick for removing the seals was to drill small holes in them (they're rubber on metal) so as to compromise their physical integrity, allowing me to crush them with a screwdriver and pull them out. There's plenty of space behind the seals, so you don't really run a risk of damaging the engine block -- just don't go too deep and make sure not to slip and gouge the sealing surfaces. For the timing belt installation, I had a friend help add slack in the system to ease things up by pushing on the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the upper radiator hose, remove the radiator fans, and remove the overflow coolant reservoir. There is enough room for this job without removing the radiator. If you're going to replace the water pump or thermostat, however, you might as well remove the radiator for luxurious space, since you'll be draining the system anyhow. This will be especially useful if you plan to drill into the seals. I also recommend lifting the front end of the car up on stands just a little so that 1) you can easily get under there occasionally (eg to unplug fans), and 2) so that coolant does not dribble out of the engine while you're working, which will ultimately cause smoke to come off the engine when you start it up again totally freaking you out, because it looks like it's coming from the timing belt cover.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="7084" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T15:15:37.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T15:15:37.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23014" CreationDate="2015-12-06T15:09:14.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly. The number sequence is split from 1 March to 31 August, then from 1 September through the end of February. In your case, the 51 plate is saying your car is a 2002 as 51 falls under the latter case. This, I believe, has to do with model year and when it was manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a breakdown in how the years suss out (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-buyers-guide/cbg_numberplates.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Year        1 March to      1 September to&#xA;            end August      end February&#xA;&#xA;2001/02                         51&#xA;2002/03         02              52&#xA;2003/04         03              53&#xA;2004/05         04              54&#xA;2005/06         05              55&#xA;2006/07         06              56&#xA;2007/08         07              57&#xA;2008/09         08              58&#xA;2009/10         09              59&#xA;2010/11         10              60&#xA;2011/12         11              61&#xA;2012/13         12              62&#xA;2013/14         13              63&#xA;2014/15         14              64&#xA;2015/16         15              65&#xA;2016/17         16              66&#xA;2017/18         17              67&#xA;2018/19         18              68&#xA;2019/20         19              69&#xA;2020/21         20              70&#xA;2021/22         21              71&#xA;2022/23         and so on   until 50/00&#xA;                            in 2050/51&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T15:09:14.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23021" CreationDate="2015-12-06T16:20:34.453" Score="4" ViewCount="7362" Body="&lt;p&gt;98 Jeep Cherokee (XJ), I6, 173k mi&#xA;When trying to turn the cold engine over, I have to crank things for at least 3-5 seconds. In some cases it will not start on the first try. After starting it runs a bit rough for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've suspected the fuel check valve going bad and have turned the key to on for 2-3 seconds, off for 2-3 seconds, 3 times before trying some cold starts and this makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also checked the fuel pressure via the rail (within spec), and its ability to maintain the pressure over 15 minutes with no drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IAC operation has been checked as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tach needle wavers slightly when idling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The exhaust always smells strong, but is clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery has been replaced with the last 3 months.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distributor cap contacts have 1/8&quot; notches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotor shows no wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugs are 6 months old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car's been recently shut off, it has no problems starting right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Before performing any service, I filled up with premium gas. Since, crank time was greatly reduced, and would always start on first try. I've since performed a seafoam induction service, throttle body cleaning and turn-over is now immediate. Long term testing of fuel pressure is next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; The fuel pressure check resulted in ~46 PSI initially. This dropped to 40 in an hour, and 34 after 5 hours. While The check valve is on its way out, I don't think it's the cause of the issues considering the flying box is still starting on the first try and immediately each time since the gas change and induction service. However, I'm still waiting until I'm through this tank of 93 octane with seafoam added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LAST UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Refilling the tank with 89 octane a few days ago, I haven't had the issue again. Considering this and the induction service was performed before anything else, with immediate results, I feel it may have been this that fixed the issue. However, the seafoam gas additive may have cleaned the injectors some over the last few weeks. I'm unsure as to how the higher octane contributed, if at all. Perhaps its a red herring. I'll wait a few days before accepting an answer if anyone has comments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11291" LastEditorUserId="11291" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:19:37.607" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T15:01:47.517" Title="Hard cold starts only" Tags="|jeep|cold-start|cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23020" CreationDate="2015-12-06T16:38:29.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound strange but try preforming an induction service. There is a condition that can sometimes occur where excessive carbon builds up on the intake valves. When carbon is cold it is porous and can absorb gasoline keeping it from getting into the cylinders. Eventually the carbon becomes saturated and fuel enters the cylinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the carbon gets hot it is no longer porous and while the engine is hot it starts just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T16:38:29.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19691" CreationDate="2015-12-06T16:45:05.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I had to make enough of a stink with the original dealer citing the operation of other compressors to have the component replaced. Subaru America was of no help as they weren't even able to get the service manager to call them back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addition Info:&lt;/strong&gt; The dealership claimed they were only doing this for customer satisfaction and at no point agreed that the compressor or parts were malfunctioning. They opted not to review the video and made the claim that this vehicle's clutch operated as designed (gradually engaging magnetic clutch), but considering the replacement's operation, see this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor has since been replaced, and has been working with no issues (so far). The pulley is engaged fully when the clutch is energized and there is no extended buzzing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor, its clutch, and pulley look a bit different then the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures, video to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11291" LastEditorUserId="11291" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:44:59.637" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:44:59.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23020" CreationDate="2015-12-06T17:50:17.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the fuel pressure after several &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt; of sitting, like in the morning before you start it or turn the key over. This could be a case of an injector leaking into a cylinder, causing a flooded effect. You could leave the pressure gauge on it over night to check in the morning. The pressure should hold most if not all of the pressure, even for that amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T17:50:17.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23026" CreationDate="2015-12-06T20:04:51.640" Score="3" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 manual Nissan Almera S petrol 1.5L with only 75,000 miles on the clock. Today the engine has started to surge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I depress the accelerator pedal more than approx. ½ inch - 1 inch, the revs fly up and I get no increase in speed. This happens in any gear at any speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually if I am turning onto a 60mph dual carriageway, I'd let the revs get to 3,000 - 3,500 and then shift. By doing so I need to press the accelerator down to at least half way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if I do that, the engine revs very quickly from 2,000 up to 4,000 (before I notice it and let go of the pedal so it doesn't go extremely high).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I shift at 2,000 revs instead, the car drives normally with no issues at all. So I go from 1st to 2nd at 2k, then shift from 2nd to 3rd at 2k, etc. Up to 5th gear at 2k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if I try to press the accelerator down more than an inch, it does the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the bonnet nothing looks out of place and everything sounds normal. The revs in neutral appear to be absolutely fine. I can press the pedal down as far as I want and the revs increase as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In gear when driving, if I press the pedal down more than an inch, the revs behave as if I'd put my foot down in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll take it to the garage tomorrow to try to see what the problem is, but I'm worrying it could be an expensive job so I'm hoping you guys might have an idea before I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7654" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:01:26.470" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T19:40:36.593" Title="Engine surges when depress accelerator past a certain point" Tags="|engine|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|surging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23025" CreationDate="2015-12-06T20:11:03.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your clutch is done and will require replacement. Yes, not a cheap job. Parts, depending on where you are and where you get the parts from, will cost about 1/4 of the cost of installation. Labor, I'm afraid will cost the most here. Since it is a front wheel drive vehicle. the entire engine/tranny combo has to come out to do the job. It sounds as though it has been slipping for quite some time and now is completely toast. For parts, you will most likely need a flywheel (though they might be able to resurface the old one), but you'll most definitely need a new pressure plate, friction disc, throw out bearing, and you'll want to replace your pilot bearing while your at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T20:11:03.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:24:23.653" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a quart of oil in  the coolant compartment in my 300c Hemi Chrysler engine.  Can I drive it about 50 miles without hurting my engine to get my engine flushed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13537" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:15:50.333" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:15:50.333" Title="I put oil in the coolant by mistake in Chrysler 300c Hemi" Tags="|coolant|chrysler-300c|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23030" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:35:46.203" Score="9" ViewCount="55032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that I should leave my wheels straight when I park my car on flat driveway, I think this is rubbish and it doesn't matter personally&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave my wheels straight when I'm parked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about when I stop the engine, and then turn the wheel to engage the steering lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T15:10:27.493" Title="Should I leave my wheels straight when I park my car?" Tags="|steering|parking|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23040" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:41:00.807" Score="2" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;My parcel shelf is about 5mm thick, and I would like to add some small speakers to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to drill or make holes in the shelf, as I want it to look original from the top, and be able to return it to original when I sell the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can attach speakers to the parcel shelf without drilling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I can include some pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T08:26:55.080" Title="Can I stick speakers to the parcel shelf without drilling or making holes?" Tags="|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23028" CreationDate="2015-12-06T22:46:26.157" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to turn your wheels when parked is when parking on a hill. Uphill you should point your wheels away from the curb. When pointing downhill you should point your wheels towards the curb. This is so if the parking mechanism should fail, the curb will hopefully stop the momentum of the vehicle and keep it from rolling very far. Other than that, &lt;em&gt;it really doesn't matter&lt;/em&gt;. It doesn't hurt anything to have the wheels pointed in whichever direction you want them to be in (or where ever they land while parking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T22:46:26.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23027" CreationDate="2015-12-06T23:09:52.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you dumped the oil into the surge tank, you need to drain it before you run the engine. You could possibly run it without issue. The problem would be the cleanup. It comes down to cleaning the surge out only, or having to have the entire cooling system (radiator, engine block, reservoir, hoses, etc.) cleaned out, which is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T23:09:52.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T23:21:29.303" Score="4" ViewCount="21615" Body="&lt;p&gt;As winter approaches, I have been noticing that on some occasions in which it is relatively cold outside (20-30 degrees) ,and  also early morning or night time when the temperature is low, that my car sometimes emits white smoke from the hood/engine when I am at a red light and have been at the red light for 10+ seconds or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also notice a considerable amount of white smoke being emitted from the exhaust while the white smoke is coming from the hood too. While I tend to be a bit paranoid, it does seem to be more white smoke than normal for most cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I recently have had the water pump replaced (107,000) miles, and ever since the water pump has been replaced it seems like my engine/hood emits a burning type of smell whenever I park my car and walk out of the vehicle after having driven it for a decent amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's tough to pinpoint but just seems like a burning oil or a burning rubber smell. I haven't lost any coolant since the water pump replacement, and they also had to change the oil apparently because some coolant was apparently getting into my oil. My oil is not milky, and looks good although I seem to have lost a little bit of oil since this repair (2-3 weeks since repair and oil has gone from around the half mark to a little bit past the minimum mark).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what to think of this, and whether I should be concerned. It is a 2003 Ford Taurus SE, Vulcan Engine with 107,000 miles. Curious to see what you guys think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This only seems to happen when I have the heat blasting in my car too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13539" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T21:37:53.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:22:08.523" Title="White smoke coming from hood in cold weather at a stop light? [2003 Ford Taurus SE, Vulcan Engine]" Tags="|engine|coolant|taurus|water-pump|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23028" CreationDate="2015-12-06T23:54:07.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 says, as far as your car is concerned, it really doesn't matter, but if your parking brake/gear fails (from being tapped by another car, e.g.) you want the curb, if there is one, to act like a chock block. If there is no curb, then you want your car to roll away from traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T23:54:07.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T02:05:41.590" Score="0" ViewCount="2322" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Scion Tc base automatic transmission, has 149k miles on it.The car used to vibrate a little at idle. It suddenly started vibrating a lot. It is shaking as if there's an earthquake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle rpm at parking and neutral is close to 1k. Idle vibration goes severe on D and R, at 600-700 rpm.  Also, bad smell is coming from exhaust after a while, more like sulfur. The car is shaking so hard that I am not driving it over 25 mph. It is not accelerating either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for some expert advise. What is exactly wrong with the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13541" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T09:02:28.227" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:02:28.227" Title="2006 Scion Tc Base - lots of vibration and bad smell from exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|rough-idle|vibration|catalytic-converter|scion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2015-12-07T02:09:02.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the data sheet of &quot;Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TYPICAL APPLICATIONS&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Drop forge dies and hammers, catalyst bed and&#xA;  reaction  chamber supports, slow rotating bearings in hot corrosive&#xA;  environments, lubricate and  seal pipe threads in acid  environments,&#xA;  coat gaskets in  high temperature applications,  lubricate conveyor&#xA;  chains, chemical plant bolts for pump  housing and pipe flanges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An educated assumption here as well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When grease is applied to a bearing for instance, you are actually applying a carrier holding oil; as the bearing rotates there is enough friction to heat the carrier and liberate enough oil to wet the moving parts, thus lubricating them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply a product that is designed to behave differently, then the bearing balls/rollers have to fight to push through the grease. On the same token, an overpacked bearing with the good stuff will behave poorly as well for the same reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for slow rotating parts where wetting as explained earlier would not be possible, the graphite in the anti-seize would perform the lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13540" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T02:09:02.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5835" CreationDate="2015-12-07T05:47:32.587" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;replace charcoal canister under gas tank. if this doesnt work then check hoses for leaks. ( use a smoke machine ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13543" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T05:47:32.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23029" CreationDate="2015-12-07T08:26:55.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Paulster suggested surface mount speakers - these would work well but the sound quality isn't going to be as good as normal speakers.  Parcel shelfs tend to be made of compressed fibre now which is flexible and flimsy for speaker applications. In the past I have made a parcel shelf out of 12-18mm thick High Density Fibreboard and reinforced it with a cross member underneath to stop it sagging in the middle, then mounted the speakers to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The added benefit of doing this was the original parcel shelf was left intact for when I came to sell the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this was for a hatchback in the UK and may not suit all car types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T08:26:55.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T11:40:12.670" Score="11" ViewCount="3300" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do people mean when they say that an engine has an &lt;em&gt;interference&lt;/em&gt; design? How does it differ from a &lt;em&gt;non-interference&lt;/em&gt; engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T08:26:48.883" Title="Interference vs non-interference engines" Tags="|valve|engine-theory|piston|interference-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23041" CreationDate="2015-12-07T11:40:12.670" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A piston engine is deemed to have an &lt;strong&gt;interference&lt;/strong&gt; design if the normal regions of valve travel and piston travel overlap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such engines, collision (and damage) would occur if any of the valves is fully open and its corresponding piston is at the top-most point of travel (Top Dead Center) as they share the same physical space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, the regions of valve travel and piston travel &lt;strong&gt;non-interference&lt;/strong&gt; engine are physically distinct from one another, making valve-piston collision impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The importance of valve timing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ThingsCutInHalfPorn/comments/3fm65u/an_audi_b6_42l_v8_engine_1174x783/ctpxpsu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This lovely reddit post&lt;/a&gt; offers a layman's explanation using the animated GIF below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.pandawhale.com/146125-traditional-mochi-making-gif-I-zHwI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Japanese example&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dude on the left is the piston, dude on the right is the valves. If the dude on the right gets out of step with the dude on the left he's in for a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very bad time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct valve timing is important in the grand scheme of any four-stroke engine's operation, but it is absolutely essential in preventing the valves and pistons from colliding in interference engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine's timing belt/chain maintains timing between the crankshaft and camshaft, which is why a snapped timing belt/chain can wreak havoc on an interference engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why bother with interference engines? Isn't it risky?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of at least two compelling reasons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Higher compression ratio = &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19527/675&quot;&gt;Moar Power!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By making the valves and piston travels overlap the same physical space, the cylinder can squeeze the gases more, resulting in more useful work from any given air/fuel quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Improved volumetric efficiency&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using interference design allows to extend the stroke of the valve as well, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theledger.com/article/20121206/NEWS/121209501&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;which helps with volumetric efficiency&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Superior breathing requires large valves that open deep into the combustion chamber, and high compression means a smaller-than-typical combustion chamber. This means the valves may need to extend into the area swept by the piston, and that's where interference may occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Timing belts/chains aren't exactly &quot;regular&quot; wear and tear items&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the risk associated with a good timing belt failing is considered low enough for engine manufacturers to consider it a &quot;risk worth taking&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well-designed timing chain will usually last the lifetime of the engine. Timing belts will last at least 60,000 miles or so (recommended change intervals will vary between engines and manufacturers). Kevlar timing belts can last 100,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T08:26:48.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T11:51:21.647" Score="2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if I can detect my engine is having hesitation/stumble problem from an OBD. I mean not from any fault codes, but from the parameters obtained from the OBD. e.g. calculate the obtained torque/power and compare with the power/torque demand (from OBD PID) and say if the engine is having hesitation/stumble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:31:58.513" Title="Detect engine stumble or hesitation" Tags="|engine|obd-ii|stall|hesitation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T14:22:15.347" Score="4" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Unicorn 160cc motorcycle skids every time I quickly hit the rear brakes. Even at slow speeds such as 10kph (about 6mph)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a problem with my riding style or could it be the bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only driven it for 10000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13549" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T19:31:45.077" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T08:49:11.807" Title="Honda Unicorn skids every time I use the rear brakes only" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|brakes|unicorn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23044" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:00:08.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;70% or more of your braking power is at the front brakes, so this is probably normal.  When you brake on a motorcycle (or car, or anything), weight shifts to the front, and this naturally unloads the rear wheel to some degree.  Less weight on the wheel means less traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear brakes should only be relied on when slowing down normally.  If you really need to stop quickly, plan on the front brakes doing almost all of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, your rear brakes &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; need adjustment, and could be locking up a little too easily, but that boundary between riding &quot;style&quot; (skill) and a mechanical problem is probably best determined by a mechanic or at least someone that's ridden your type of bike for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:00:08.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23044" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:00:20.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably your rear tyres have worn out , replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Never apply only the rear brake , all bikes in the world tend to fishtail, unless you have ABS and I know your bike does not have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for a superbike its always advised to apply only the front brake since during brake due to load transfer to front wheel the rear wheel looses grip and fishtails more so if the tyre is worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:00:20.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23049" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:12:35.123" Score="8" ViewCount="92334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get to the OBD connector on my car at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know the OBD II voltage is active even when the key is in lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jybtd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jybtd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJB6W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJB6W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; : It's for a product that will be powered from the OBD II connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T04:13:48.937" Title="OBD II power when key not in ignition" Tags="|ignition|obd-ii|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23047" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:22:29.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify what car you are trying to diagnose, but in my experience vehicles need to be 'on' in order for the OBDII to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:22:29.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23047" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:26:37.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pin 16 on the ODB-II connector is specified as &quot;Battery Power&quot; or &quot;Battery Positive&quot;.  There will always be 12v power between pin 4 and 16.  Note that pin 5 has &quot;ground&quot; in the description, but that is just for the communication signalling and not for power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3kaj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3kaj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector will always have power on these two pins regardless of the key position, and when you plug a device into the port it will have power and may come on by itself (many scanners do this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is only power and you won't be able to communicate with the car.  The car's computers will not have constant power and are typically only active when the key is turned to the ON position.  Some cars may power up certain CAN components or even the ECU in the ACC key position, but I've never seen that happen (limited experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:26:37.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:31:58.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stumbling engine should result in abnormal engine vibrations. It should be possible to use the knock sensor(s)/misfire counter to detect abnormalities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it will not be as straightforward as setting a simple threshold-based limit since the normal sensor readout will be heavily dependent on factors like engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:31:58.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18545" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:45:36.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding your question of how critical the belt may be, &lt;strong&gt;it is very critical&lt;/strong&gt;.  The 4-cyl Vibes run the water pump with the serpentine belt. If the water pump is not running it can overheat your car very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The $400 price seems steep for your vehicle, I recommend using the NAPA auto repair estimator to give you an idea before talking to a mechanic.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.napaautocare.com/estimator.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.napaautocare.com/estimator.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are at all mechanically inclined and have tools , I would recommend giving this repair a try on your own.  There are plenty of how-to videos, here is a link to one so you can decide if you want to give it a shot.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDPFq-9jnXE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDPFq-9jnXE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:45:36.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24059" CreationDate="2015-12-07T17:28:13.147" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Toyota Highlander that is missing the cover to the lock on the drivers door. Can anybody tell me the name of the part so I can find a replacement? The dealership wanted $50+ for parts and labor, while it's just a simple plastic piece that snaps on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2Qdy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2Qdy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T18:46:47.117" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T16:53:17.153" Title="Door lock cover on Toyota Highlander" Tags="|toyota|part-identification|highlander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23032" CreationDate="2015-12-07T20:43:05.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head gasket is the only likely culprit here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the shop did something they shouldn't have when replacing the water pump that could have damaged the head. I've seen head bolts loosened inadvertently due to negligence.  This is not an indictment of your mechanic, it could be pure coincidence or some odd issue with the water pump adding more pressure than the old one since it's brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are you sure the smoke is white and not slightly blue? It can be hard to tell. That would explain the loss of oil and the burning smell.  Either way, definitely looking at a head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T20:43:05.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23054" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:41:01.493" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T21:41:01.493" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T21:41:01.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:41:01.493" Score="0" Body="A 234 cc (14.3 cu in) cruiser-style motorcycle made by Honda since 1985" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T02:09:23.053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:09:23.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19424" CreationDate="2015-12-07T21:55:17.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a VIN number untangler from the Honda website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://automobiles.honda.com/information/frequently-asked-questions.aspx?Question=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://automobiles.honda.com/information/frequently-asked-questions.aspx?Question=20&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your the one with the VIN and haven't posted it you will have to untangle it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T21:55:17.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22588" CreationDate="2015-12-07T22:04:03.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are purchasing components for the vehicle you will want to base it upon the VIN Number.  Here is a UK VIN number decoder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=14302&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=14302&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T22:04:03.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2015-12-07T23:58:04.530" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of heavy trucks keeping the RPM between 10-15 regardless of gear shifts is the best for fuel efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13554" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T02:11:01.000" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:11:01.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22390" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:31:31.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have an idler pulley problem just beginning. check out these videos and other like it to learn more.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXfx6cDL2jg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXfx6cDL2jg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwdBEENa7Is&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwdBEENa7Is&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5Qp-ToR8KA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5Qp-ToR8KA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T01:31:31.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:51:03.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the nights dew could play a part by dampening the metal and allowing for slippage of the belt causing it to squeal momentarily until the dew dries up.  The problem could be as simple as tightening your alternator belt.  There is an adjustment bolt that allows you to loosen or tighten your alternator belt.  just a couple of turns should do it.  if this does not work then you may want to look into your Idler Tension Pulley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T01:51:03.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4703" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:11:40.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the nights dew could play a part by dampening the metal and allowing for slippage of the belt causing it to squeal momentarily until the dew dries up. The problem could be as simple as tightening your alternator belt. There is an adjustment bolt that allows you to loosen or tighten your alternator belt. A couple of turns should do it. You may also want to look into your Idler Tension Pulley.  Maybe the bearing is going bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T03:58:02.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T03:58:02.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9642" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:33:36.463" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch this video and others like it to learn more. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPsrHNASeNE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPsrHNASeNE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:33:36.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2411" CreationDate="2015-12-08T04:32:45.857" Score="28" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technical reason that manufacturers have chosen to use a sequential shift pattern with their gearbox configurations is that a standard shift plate that allows the selection of any gear desired is too bulky to fit into modern motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The REAL REASON this configuration is used is that it's defined in the US Code of Federal regulations under Title 49.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in other responses, neutral is in the position between 1st and 2nd gear as a form of logic and safety.  In a sequential transmission the sensibility of placing neutral between 3rd and 4th gears creates user difficulty in getting to desired gears after stopping.  The only logical place to have neutral exist is between 1st and 2nd gear due to safety and usability concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle shift patterns are purely the result of the technical layout and logic of the shift linkage within the transmission and the usage of a sequential transmission.  Most modern motorcycles use a shift drum as opposed to legacy motorcycles mainly relying upon a shift plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift Drum Image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DoTR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DoTR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shift drum has grooves around the outside of the drum that the ends of shift forks ride within.  As the drum turns the grooves will shift for a particular shift fork sliding gears along the primary shaft or secondary shaft back and forth and placing them into locking positions to maintain a particular gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only logical methodology would be to have the gears operate sequentially in order for them to placed into position in order of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Regulatory&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Code of Federal Regulations in the United States defines that the left will be used for shifting and that if there are more than two gears on the motorcycle the pushing the shifter down will take you to a lower gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An upward motion of the operator’s toe shifts transmission toward&#xA;lower numerical gear ratios (commonly referred to as ‘‘higher&#xA;gears’’), and a downward motion toward higher numerical gear ratios&#xA;(commonly referred to as ‘‘lower gears’’). If three or more gears are&#xA;provided it shall not be possible to shift from the highest gear&#xA;directly to the lowest gear, or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2002-title49-vol5/pdf/CFR-2002-title49-vol5-sec571-123.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Title 49 (Transportation) Section 571.123 - Standard No. 123; Motorcycle controls and displays&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CFR does not define where nuetral shall be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CFR defines the order of the gears but obviously not the mechanism.  Engineering and logic have continued to define the mechanism since the 60's when it was first introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Technical&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycles use a sequential transmission.  A sequential transmission will typically leverage dogs and slots on the gears to engage and/or desengage particular gears and a shift or selector drum to operate shift forks to move the gears into the appropriate positions for engagement/disengagment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shift drum is really the key to defining the order of gears and it so happens to match the requirements, in the US at least, that the government has enacted for safety.  The gears shall be in order of highest to lowest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle technology has been an exercise of reduction over the past 100 plus years.  Simplification, weight reduction and reliability have driven the changes primarily.  Initially, shift plates were used and acted very similarly to a cars H pattern we see today.  The invention, use and popularization of the shift drum have driven weight, simplicity and reliability to the next level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the drum rotates from the use of a paw drive (frequently) the outer diameter of the drums grooves change position, moving the shift forks and sliding transmission gears called sliders back and forth along the primary or secondary shaft to lock into place with a partner gear with the use of dogs and slots either protruding from or cut into a partner gear.  This mechanism locks the particular gear into place along the transmission shafts thus engaging the gear.  The key is the shift drum and it's rotation with the cut grooves.  Prior to this mechanism a cam plate was frequently used below the two shafts that would move the shift forks.  The cam plate design proved unreliable but did fulfill the initial duty of changing a sequential transmissions gears in the proper order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cam Plate Image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Notice the grooves where the shift forks are aligned to&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xPYu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xPYu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift Drum and Transmission Relational Image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is an excellent example of a v-twin engine with vertical cases split.  As you can see, it illustrates the relation of both transmission shafts with shift forks and the grooved shift drum.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEG5S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEG5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T17:25:42.700" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T04:50:01.420" Score="1" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently removed the car battery and plugged it again.  I then noticed that when I turn the A/C on the RPM goes up and down 1000~500 rpm and sometimes when I shift the gear from N to D or R the car turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did an OBD check and the results were &lt;strong&gt;Code P0148&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13557" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T05:26:35.780" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T05:27:58.133" Title="RPM problem Ford 2009 Crown Vic" Tags="|ford|battery|rpm|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23066" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:23:29.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The error code represents &quot;High Pressure Common Rail Checksum Error&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be the FCA (fuel control actuator) or a fuel pressure sensor on your main high pressure fuel rail or possibly both.  The FCA meters fuel into the high pressure fuel rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms are typically sputtering and power loss off idle or higher.  The symptoms you are experiencing could be associated with either failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the car battery disconnection is related to the issues you are experiencing but a more knowledgeable resource may chime in with experience that can connect the two together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T05:23:29.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23124" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:34:04.127" Score="4" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the head gasket and timing belt on my F22B2 (non-VTEC, 4 cylinder) 97 Honda Accord.  I got everything put back together, but now the ignition switch doesn't have the same results it used to in the on position (position II).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the ignition switch positions and the result I'm getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0   - off, head lights, rear and interior lights work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I   - Radio can turn on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;II  - everything should be on at this position, the Battery and Oil light should go on briefly but only the interior/exterior vent light flashes for less than a second, no other dash lights turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;III - engage starter, In this position the dash lights come on (battery and oil pressure light), internal/external vent light stays on, I can hear the gas pressurize, the starter works, the engine turns over but does not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have installed brand new spark plugs, distributor and battery.  Battery is at at least 12.6 volts.  I replaced the battery connectors.  I had to remove the two ground connections to the valve cover and engine to do the work, they have been put back and tightened to the proper torque.  I think all of the electrical connectors were reconnected properly.  I'm pretty sure that I didn't touch any of the other chassis ground connections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ignition switch worked fine before doing this work.  I don't think that is the problem but I'll test it just to make sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had a similar issue?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why don't the dash lights come on in position II like they should until I'm about to engage the starter in the ignition switch position III?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about trying to find where the weak connection is?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there may be other things that would prevent the engine from starting. I think this electrical issue needs to be resolved first, so that's the issue I'm looking for any ideas on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13558" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T06:26:03.293" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T08:02:25.073" Title="1997 Honda Accord F22B2 - Electrical Issue After Cylinder Head Repair" Tags="|honda|electrical|accord|ignition-switch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:51:31.933" Score="3" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 1991 Ford Explorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found out my muffler wasn't connected. I was wondering why it was so loud when I got it. I have been driving it for a month now and I'm hoping I didn't wreck anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it wreck something if the muffler wasn't connected while driving it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13326" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T08:19:09.987" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:12:58.143" Title="I just found out that my muffler wasn't even connected. I was driving it around lots is that bad?" Tags="|ford|exhaust|explorer|muffler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T06:16:10.477" Score="2" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had HID's in my blazer for about 3 months and the passenger side always went out so I took them out and put the regular headlight bulb back in.  After I did that, I now have no power to the brights or low beams, but just on the passenger side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the fuses and tried changing the headlight sockets tonight and it didn't fix anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13559" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T06:29:09.420" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:28:45.190" Title="1998 Chevy Blazer - Headlights not getting power on one side" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|headlight|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23035" CreationDate="2015-12-08T06:21:41.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds to me like a bad cat/cats. I would check those. they were clogged on my blazer and it wouldn't like me drive fast and it smelled awful inside the car &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13559" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T06:21:41.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T06:51:20.003" Score="2" ViewCount="5650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Ford Escape.  It overheats once in a while up to the point that you can physically see coolant in the reservoir tank boiling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is that the temperature gauge on the car dashboard does not rise beyond the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13560" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T08:15:51.767" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:54:00.537" Title="Temperature gauge stays in middle even when engine overheats" Tags="|ford|overheating|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T07:12:51.747" Score="2" ViewCount="25360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the water pump in my 2005 Ford Escape V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered that each time I fill the coolant reservoir with coolant and drive the car, by my next stop the coolant reservoir will be completely empty.  I can't see water leaking or dripping from anywhere in the car. This has happened 3 times now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13560" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T08:17:54.550" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T23:16:08.137" Title="Coolant disappears from coolant reservoir but no leak observed" Tags="|ford|coolant|cooling-system|overheating|escape|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23072" CreationDate="2015-12-08T08:02:59.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you're &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/23073/675&quot;&gt;regularly losing coolant&lt;/a&gt; it would seem that your radiator cap isn't allowing the coolant system to build up the pressure that it is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At lower pressure, coolant will start to boil at a lower temperature, which would explain why your coolant is boiling but the temperature gauge reads normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would test/replace the radiator cap and see if that remedies the symptoms. If not, it possible that the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T08:02:59.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23073" CreationDate="2015-12-08T08:17:29.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bad radiator cap can explain this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cap opens at a lower pressure than what the cooling system is rated at then coolant will be released through the overflow tube once that pressure is achieved, which it will under normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would test/replace the radiator cap and see if that remedies the symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T08:17:29.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23069" CreationDate="2015-12-08T08:20:11.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The job of the muffler is to reduce the noise level of the exhaust; no other damage should have occurred if the exhaust piping was disconnected there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T08:20:11.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23028" CreationDate="2015-12-08T08:26:07.450" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a good practice. It might help keep your steering aligned longer. Engaging the steering lock is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn the steering wheel, the steering column transfers that force onto the drive shaft and other related components to turn your wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you park with the wheels at an angle the steering parts exert an opposite force. Have you noticed how when you take a U Turn the steering tends to straighten out when you let go of your grip on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This force is continuously exerted on the steering column when you park with your wheels crossed and not straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13562" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:15:41.383" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T23:15:41.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T08:56:31.267" Score="2" ViewCount="4429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an Iveco Daily Van new back in February (10 months ago) and yesterday it broke down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic symptoms being that it wont engage into gear (the engine start fine but when you depress the clutch and put it into gear no power goes to the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have returned it to the dealer expecting it to be covered under my 3 year warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have diagnosed that the gear box and the clutch both need replacing, but they are saying that the clutch is worn out and is a consumable. I will have to pay for the clutch (but not the gearbox as that is covered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel a little bit aggrieved by this as the van is so young and it hasn't been driven carelessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be accepting that it is down to wear and tear or should a clutch last a lot longer than that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the gearbox failure have caused the clutch to wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers for any answers in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13563" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T09:22:02.577" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:54:10.967" Title="Can a faulty gearbox cause a clutch to wear?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|clutch-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23035" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:01:54.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A catalytic converter is designed to increase the temperature of the exhaust to convert hydrogen sulfide to sulfur dioxide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you are smelling sulfur in your exhaust is one of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The titanium within the cat has been used up or burned off over time.  Since the dense titanium is not retaining heat any longer the steel or other material it is bonded too is getting coated with carbon and insulating the internals of the cat and thus preventing it from getting to the temperature it needs to be at to complete the conversion process from hydrogen sulfide to sulfur dioxide.  Thus the scent of sulfur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cat is actually clogged and preventing the exhaust from escaping in the normal freer flowing manner.  The restriction in the exhaust causes too much back pressure and is effecting the combustion process in the engine and giving you performance related symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may receive engine codes and have a check engine light on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go to a local car parts store and many of them will connect an ODBII tester to your vehicle to get the error codes that can tell you what components you need to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cat converters can be expensive due to the titanium used within them to retain heat in order to convert the hydrogen sulfide to sulfur dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:01:54.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23349" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:13:08.070" Score="6" ViewCount="6623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain the differences between a pullrod and pushrod suspension and provide the pro's and con's of each configuration?  Typically these suspensions are used on open wheeled vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any visual aids regarding components or function are desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T00:15:31.820" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:15:31.820" Title="Differences between pullrod and pushrod suspensions - Pro's and Con's" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:18:00.820" Score="4" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW POLO (6N2) - 1.4 (60Hk), from February 2000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the car was standing still for 2 days in a rural area close to a stream (damp environment), the car had issues with being idling. Even after the car was heated. This issue did not exist before.  After a 20 minute drive, and 10 minutes of the car being turned off, when I start the car it works fine at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, it has a hard time increasing speed. When I accelerate normally the car sort of jumps and the speed is not increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am bit unsure of what can cause these issues, searching around on the Internet has led me to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Issues with water/condensation in the fuel/fuel-lines? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Issue with the power distributor for the spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wires from the power distributor to the spark plugs? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The air intake or air leak ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it a bit strange and would like some pointers on where to start with troubleshooting the issue.   :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not locate the specific issue, but I purchased new &lt;code&gt;spark plugs&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Ignition coil&lt;/code&gt; and it ran smoothly again :)&#xA;So do this if you ever have the issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13561" LastEditorUserId="13561" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T09:12:26.807" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T09:12:26.807" Title="Engine not functioning properly at idle (cold or hot), during driving, slow acceleration, does not increase speed" Tags="|engine|vw|sparkplugs|acceleration|polo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-15T14:38:10.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23141" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:18:35.267" Score="3" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very basic understanding of one anti lag system on some models of Toyota Celica.  I am interested if anyone knows the various types of Anti-lag Systems that exist in the real world and/or racing.  Can someone explain the details of ALS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T20:24:14.480" Title="ALS (anti lag system) - What are the various types of ALS systems used on forced induction vehicles?" Tags="|turbocharger|forced-induction|super-charger|als|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23012" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:29:26.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got the damn thing out finally. Had to use a rotary tool to cut the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT1Ok.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xT1Ok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GKAy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GKAy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFD6a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFD6a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13529" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:29:26.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23078" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:30:54.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;Yes and No&quot; question. A few variables determine if the clutch wear is due to a faulty gearbox (Transmission). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last time the clutch was replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your driving habits (riding the clutch, hard shifting etc etc etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Synchros in the gearbox&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a fairly new clutch, and you are an experienced driver that treats your clutch well; It shouldn't be wearing that fast. &#xA;You have synchro rings inside the transmission that are essentially mini clutches made of brass in between your gears in the gearbox. They allow for smooth transition from gear to gear so you don't have to rev match.&#xA;When these go bad it is very possible that the clutch may wear down because of rough shifts due to the failure of the synchros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally if the gearbox is failing and not operating correctly it could be putting extra stress on your clutch. A good example would be gears binding up. It may still run correctly, but eventually it will fail due to added stress that it wasn't designed to handle. It is possible that failing synchros could cause gear damage because of rough shifts; This can also happen without the operator even noticing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ask to physically see what they're telling you is the issue and ask for an intelligent answer as to how they came to their conclusion. Most times dealerships are friendly in that respect. Remember also that they have to make their money and will try to &quot;Skim&quot; service if at all possible to avoid wasting money on their end. Since the clutch could have been ruined by MANY different things and assuming you drive your vehicle properly; I would argue for a free clutch simply because of the plethora of variables in this situation. I think the things that are wrong with your vehicle outweigh operator error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T09:54:10.967" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:54:10.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23087" CreationDate="2015-12-08T10:01:44.330" Score="4" ViewCount="2973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a slow puncture a while ago and got the tyre replaced on my Renault Clio because it was bulging and non salvageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've been losing pressure in that tyre fairly rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the tyre resealed 3 times now and I'm still losing pressure in the tyre (from full to flat in ~3 days even with no driving being done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be the cause? I'd rather not shell out for a new wheel and the mechanics say they don't know what's wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13564" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T17:29:04.493" Title="What could be causing the rapid loss of tyre pressure?" Tags="|tires|pressure|clio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23085" CreationDate="2015-12-08T10:16:24.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rim is defective it can cause this. It could have a hole in it somewhere (welds and valve stem). If it is malformed it will lose pressure due to improper sealing. The malformation of the rim may be so subtle that it takes a while to lose pressure. &#xA;From what you say I would assume the rim is defective. Lets not forget that just because the tire is new does not mean they can't be defective as well. &quot;New&quot; does not mean much because anything can be defective new or not. &#xA;There are several tests you could do to see where it is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a spray bottle with a fine mist and spray around where your rim and tire mate. You'll have to watch very closely to see bubbles and listen for hissing. &#xA;You can also fill the tire with a fine dye and observer where the leak is. &#xA;other than that, you'll have to replace your tire and wheel to be absolutely sure you resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:16:24.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23085" CreationDate="2015-12-08T10:17:52.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this can be anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leak in the new tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even a leak in the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leak between tire and rim (may be there's some dirt on the rim or a burr on the tire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leak between rim and valve stud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaky valve itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a soapsuds test (dish liquid water mixture) to find the leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:17:52.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23072" CreationDate="2015-12-08T11:54:00.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can test your coolant temperature switch using hot water and a multi-meter. You'll have to look up the specifications of your coolant temp switch/ sensor. You'll just have to dip it in some water and wire up some electrical to test it. If you don't feel comfortable doing that you can just replace it to be extra sure.&#xA;If you have boiling water in your overflow reservoir it could be quite a few things. It could be anything as simple as a bad water pump or possibly a blown head gasket leaking combustion gasses into your coolant jackets. &#xA;If you goto a parts store you can rent a testing kit that will allow you to pressure down the system and find the source of your leak. It could be many places so you have to be patient and meticulous about finding it. Try to find the source of the issue before you spend lots of money on replacing parts. I know replacing parts is easier than finding the issue, but if you spend the extra time going over the system you'll save a buck. I would also do what @Zaid said. It can't hurt.&#xA;I hope this was helpful! Good Luck  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:54:00.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16468" CreationDate="2015-12-08T12:31:40.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Opinion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From description of the issue I would defer to @Paulster commentary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a traditional lean condition caused by a vacuum leak.  Vacuum leaks typically reveal themselves under low RPM conditions due to how extreme the lean condition can be at idle.  As the rev's increase the engine still has a lean condition but is overcome by the additional fuel to find a better balance and is able run in what appears to be a smoother fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, when the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) comes close to to 14:1 the lean condition can translate to more power due to the additional oxygen that is being provided.  The dangerous long term risk to the motor is that it will run much hotter and can even run hot enough to destroy your exhaust valves as the overheated exhaust gasses are passing across exhaust valve face and stem and not the intake valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can troubleshoot the condition using a technique used frequently by motorcycle mechanics but beware what I am offering as a potential troubleshooting technique can be potentially dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use contact cleaner that, if burned, has a emission of NOx (Nitrogen Oxide).  This is different from Nitrous Oxide, which is to charge whip cream cans among other things.  Contact cleaner is used in many cases to clean electrical contacts and has a very low oil residue within it.  Unlike gasoline or brake clean, if it ignites it burns off very quickly due to it's high combustion rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You run your engine and use the little red tube that comes with the can to spray small amounts of the contact cleaner onto areas of the FI or carb you suspect may have an air leak.  More than likely there is a vacuum line that was not put back in place and you might find the nipple for the vacuum line on or near the throttle body.  When you spray the contact clean on an area when it drawn into the engine you may hear the rev's drop just a bit as the air leak is temporarily plugged by the liquid you are spraying.  The emission at the tail pipe will smell extremely strong.  You don't want to inhale a lot of that.  It's bad for you....but the strong burning smell is unmistakable from the exhaust scent.  You may want to have a friend post up on the rear of the car to detect the odor.  When you find the spot that has the air leak you can then begin to formulate you fix, whether it's an O-ring on a fuel injector that was not put back in place or a vacuum line that needs to be reattached or plugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like a classic super lean condition that would be created by a larger vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Additional Possible Symptoms&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another symptom you may or may not be experiencing is this.  When the engine is coming down off of it's rev's and your are not interacting with the throttle the idle may be momentarily high.  This could last for a moment before the rev's drop or for a dozen or so seconds.  Once the rev's drop down from a seemingly high idle speed the engine falls below that anticipated idle speed and seems to have trouble continuing to run or stalls.  If you have that symptom along with the others you have described, look for air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:32:33.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12337" CreationDate="2015-12-08T12:57:23.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very skeptical of the claim that the GSXR150 is leveraging MotoGP technology, even the top of the line sport bikes from Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha do not leverage much of that tech other than frame and swingarm.  The new Honda RC213V-S is $184,000.  How much did that 150cc bike cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, the inverted triangle piston skirt is not that fancy.  It's simply a piston that has a reduced circumference face against the cylinder walls.  As others have stated, the skirt drops down enough to prevent the piston from 'rocking' on the wrist pin and knocking back and forth in the cylinder bore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inverted triangle piston skirts have been around for quite a bit, Renault used one in the '70's in formula 1.  Yamaha used one in the '70's in a later generation of it's two stroke TZ750 dirt tracker and grand prix bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Mauro stated in theory it could be more like a slipper piston, it basically is a slipper piston it's just not that aggressive in terms of removal of material from the skirt and surrounding area of the wrist pin, or as the islanders like to say, grudgeon pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it is race technology but at the end of the day it's '70's era race technology.  Most of the GSXR line has been running a similar piston configuration for well over a decade and a half, as has Yamaha, Kawasaki, Honda, Aprilia and Ducati.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind they are calling the bike a GSXR but there are no other GSXR models that have rocker arms.  They all use under the bucket shims where the cam lob essentially rides right on the bucket over the valve stem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Suzuki has done with that bike is attempt to make it the most efficient it can be without spending a large investment.  They are in a friction reduction phase with the model to make it compete with all the other 150cc bikes out there, this will force the competition to, in turn, spend money to get their fuel efficiency up and in so doing perhaps create a higher cost vehicle.  Suzuki works that way as do many other manufacturers but in the end, it still has rocker arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this sufficient, cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T12:57:23.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23082" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:01:21.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In racing applications, often fuel is simply dumped into the exhaust manifold. It burns/explodes and raises the pressure in the manifold, which keeps the turbo spinning. I also read about an experiment where there was a valve in the exhaust manifold to relieve the back pressure when the throttle was closed (which would slow the turbo), but I don't recall hearing whether it was effective or not. In street applications, I know that both BMW and Audi are experimenting with electric &quot;turbos&quot; that rely more on an electric motor than on exhaust gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earliest anti-lag system I know about is the twin-turbo set-up on the Porsche 959, which simply had two sequential turbos. The first one was smaller and provided boost at lower RPMs, while the second was larger and contributed more boost at higher RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:01:21.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:06:13.340" Score="5" ViewCount="31285" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 days ago I felt that something isn't right with my Ford. A mechanic told me that he wants to replace all four spark plugs and wires but could I just change the one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm scared that he's ripping me off please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13566" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T13:15:56.667" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T17:55:40.113" Title="Should I change one spark plug and wire or all of them?" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19786" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:08:38.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines absorb valve clearance by having their valve faces pounded repeatedly into their valve seats for tens of thousands of miles.  This ongoing operation pounds a groove into the face of the valve where it makes contact with the cylinder head on the valve seat.  As the valve face has the groove pounded into it takes up valve clearance up at the top of the stem.  The valve 'settles' into the head, if you will.  When this occurs and clearance is taken up a valve adjustment becomes necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With four valve heads and a lighter valve with a lighter valve spring and a smaller valve face, maintenance increase.  Less force, less weight, less damage over time.  This is one of the primary drivers in extended maintenance windows in all vehicles since the mid '80's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves loosen at the stem, depending on what is pushing down on the stem the wear is a variable.  If you have a rocker hitting a point on stem directly it will pound it down ever so slightly creating concave point at the end of the stem.  If it is a shim and bucket valve train the force is distributed across the entire top of the stem and wears down CONSIDERABLY slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:08:38.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23069" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:12:58.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible to cause valve damage if the engine is hot and cold air is sucked up into the exhaust (by backpressure when the throttle is closed). However, you'd have to basically disconnect the exhaust right after the exhaust header, or have a cracked exhaust header, for that to happen. So it's extremely unlikely you caused any engine damage. A more real concern is carbon monoxide from the exhaust making its way into the passenger area. Usually only an issue if you spend a lot of time idling and have rust holes in the floorboards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:12:58.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23093" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:14:53.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fear not, he's not ripping you off.  Spark plugs are cheap, you change them in sets as you do with brakes or spark plug wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You want all of your spark plugs to match and have nearly the same levels of electrical resistance as all of the other plugs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This make the engine run smoothly.  If you had one spark plug firing properly and three that were not you could damage your engine as it would be a bit out of balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want balance in your engine.  You want balance with combustion.  This gives you efficiency and as well, longevity, with your motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is standard maintenance.  I don't think anyone on this site would only change one spark plug on their own vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhale.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fine.       :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:14:53.973" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23070" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:19:43.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Headlights are sometimes switched by a relay. Try tracing the wires back and see if you can spot one. If so, it should be easy enough to test -- just try swapping it with the relay for the other side and see if the problem follows the relay. If not, then you should be able to check the input line to see if it has power when you turn the lights on. If not, then you probably have a bad headlight switch. If you check the switch and it's OK then you must have a short, possibly where the switch wire comes through the firewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T13:19:43.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:35:42.220" Score="3" ViewCount="11168" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 days ago I felt that something isn't right with my Ford. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanic told me that he wants to replace all four spark plugs and wires but could I just change the spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13566" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T15:24:36.123" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T13:11:23.123" Title="Is it necessary to change the leads when changing spark plugs?" Tags="|ford|spark-plug-wires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2015-12-08T13:57:24.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am not mistaken the 2001 Yamaha Diversion has a clutch cable and does not have a hydraulic self adjusting clutch mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my son's first motorcycle and we experienced similar issues with his.  I will say that this model is bullet proof.  Especially the 8 valve air cooled version which you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Throw Out Bearing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your throw out bearing is trashed then your throw out bearing washer probably is too.  This will take up a lot of adjustment so you can take that rack gear that's in there and skip a tooth on it so the clutch engagement arm is properly positioned on your clutch cover to have the maximum throw when you pull in the clutch lever.  If you have dissassembled this component you should know exactly what I am talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pressure plate where the throw out bearing washer goes, is made of aluminum.  If you don't have the washer and the throw out bearing operates against that aluminum it will eat into the pressure plate quickly and ruin it.  If that has happened, get a new one.  It's done.  If it hasn't happened, make sure you assemble in the right order and have that nice steel washer against it to protect it.  This has been the source of a grinding sound when I have seen a failed throw out bearing on this model.  Of course, I can't be sure if that's the case with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note:the XJS models suffer from a clutch basket noise issue as well.  For some, they describe it as grinding, for others, they describe it as clanging.  This is the sound of the clutch basket shock springs rattling in the clutch basket.  You DO NOT NEED to replace the outer basket if this is the noise.  It sounds miserable but it's fine.  The springs will not come out of the basket.  Suzuki models from 1982 to 2005 have this issue.  Almost all of them.  It's ridiculous, it's annoying but it's not a disaster and it's not unsafe.  It just is&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Lubrication&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the handle for the clutch on the handlebar always squeaks.  He bought two&#xA;lever landings before he finally took my advice and used a graphite dry lubricant on it.  It comes in a spray can and has a liquid carrier that evaporates rather quickly leaving behind the graphite.  Any excess can wiped off afterward.  Apply liberally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, use the graphite to lubricate the cable inside the housing.  It's super messy if you do it wrong.  It's super messy if you do it right.  Take the cable off the lever before doing this so you can get the lubricant inside of the cable housing.   DO NOT ever use an oil based product to lubricate your cables.  It will get stiff over time, especially in cold weather as the hydrocarbons evaporate slowly from the oil.  It will get gummier and stiffer until it's unbearable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adjustment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the handlebar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting a clutch cable on a motorcycle is an art form.  You need to take your time and move the handlebars to the far right and left stops and check your adjustment each time.  You want to have a little play in the lever.  When you turn your handlebars far right on that model it WILL take up some of the play.  You will need to adjust accordingly.  When the handlebars are pointed straight there should be play in the clutch lever.  It might seem a bit wonky but it's correct.  Of course, you will want to keep the play to a minimum.  Hence the art form.  Find balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the clutch cover&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Perhaps I should have put this above but what are doing is adjusting the clutch at the point where it joins your clutch cover with the adjustment and locking bolt.  Be sure you have the second bolt to lock down the primary in order to keep your adjustment from changing.  You will want to adjust here and at the handlebar.  You want the clutch adjustment screw at the handlebar to be about halfway in the landing, you find the point by adjusting at the clutch cover, then you fine tune the adjustment up top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a big mess of graphite down here because you did such a great job of getting the liquid graphite into the cable.  If you don't have a big mess, you did it wrong.  Wash, rinse, repeat.  You cannot have enough dry graphite in the cable housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the the throw out bearing and the washer, lubricate properly and then take your time adjusting the clutch with a warm motor, I believe your drag issue will go away.  It's painful and manual but it's a beautiful analogue motorcycle that requires you to love on it.  It's old school cool and that's rare nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a clutch diagram for your bike.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0RSp.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0RSp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy that thing, it will love you back for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T00:07:54.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23073" CreationDate="2015-12-08T14:52:38.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first comment is that there MAY be a special fill procedure for your car.  If you are not observing the fill procedure, you may not be putting enough coolant in, and OF COURSE the car will drain the tank, to fill the cooling loop, once the thermostat opens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second comment is that this sounds as though the car is burning coolant.  Think &quot;blown head gasket&quot;.  Start by taking a look at the engine oil.  Your shop may be able to tell something with an exhaust analyzer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with a 1990 Chevy Lumina 4-door sedan gradually draining the coolant tank.  Newspapers under the car revealed a leak SOMEWHERE, but I couldn't see where.  I finally got lucky, and saw a leaking gasket at the bypass union, that turned out to be a worn union.  (That repair was what triggered my search for a replacement vehicle: getting a replacement part was a lot harder than it should have been.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13569" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T14:52:38.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23099" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:22:27.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It is not necessary to change the wires &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;but it's a good idea.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spark plugs have been in the engine too long the component at the end of the plug get's oxidized over time from having such high voltage run across it to jump a gap and create a spark.  As these electrodes are consumed by this process the gap becomes wider and wider and it makes it more difficult for the spark to jump that gap.  As the gap increases (it's called an air gap) the resistance increases.  Resistance in electrical speak is called ohms.  As the ohms increase more voltage is required to jump the gap.  As the resistance increases there additional side effects, one of them is heat.  It's a byproduct of the process.  As the heat increases in the spark plug wires and the resistance increases during the spark/ignition process the wire inside of the spark plug wire slowly get's broken down, this also increases the resistance that your spark coils need to overcome.  So they heat up and start breaking down over time with heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was taught by my father, an electrical engineer from CAL Berkeley, to replace the spark plug wires every third spark plug change.  This was in the late '70's soooooo...take it with a grain of salt.  As well, he also advocated, if your having an ignition problem, don't screw around, change the plugs, the wires and distributor cap.....the stuff is a consumable and is the price you pay kid....well, he always seemed to fix the problem and didn't burn a bunch of money and time trying to figure it out.  Additionally, he didn't damage the rest of his system trying to save a buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that when money is tight, money is tight....so this is a subjective question and I'm giving you my honest OPINION.  There are no facts, there isn't enough information about what you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long and short of it.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to change your spark plug wires when you change your spark plugs but if you are taking it to a mechanic and he is charging you.....you may want to avoid the 2nd visit.  It's up to you and your situation.  I, thankfully, am not experiencing the agony of financial distress so I'd change them but I'm not you.  You know the risks now and whatever you choose to do won't be right or wrong it will just be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope the situation works out as best it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and cheers   :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T19:38:36.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23106" CreationDate="2015-12-08T15:49:49.767" Score="6" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about the Lexus RCF and how it has a torque vectoring differential and how this differential has the ability to put more torque on the outer turning wheels rather than on the inside wheels which seems to be a common differential issue and a problem engineers have had difficulty staying within cost containment controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience working on these differentials and truly understand how they work and how they can distribute torque more efficiently on a floating axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know AMG/Mercedes also used this type of diff on one of their electric/hybrid vehicles but have not had any experience or technical deconstruction of how they actually function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T22:05:59.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:05:59.280" Title="Lexus RCF - Torque Vectoring Differential, How Does it Work?" Tags="|torque|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23105" CreationDate="2015-12-08T16:37:38.710" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light is on, the car ran out of battery and after jumping it, it is running kind of poorly, idling rough, etc. I plugged in the OBD-II scanner/reader, and it &quot;has power&quot; (green backlight works), but nothing comes up, it just reads...emptiness. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Accord#North_America.2C_Japan_and_Philippines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda Accord 97&lt;/a&gt;. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T21:47:15.460" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T21:47:15.460" Title="OBD-II reader has power but shows nothing" Tags="|honda|obd-ii|accord|cel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2015-12-08T16:37:38.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out this particular issue wasn't due to me running the car out of battery (I believe) but actually to a blown fuse.  I guess I had previously left the OBD II plugged in for awhile and apparently if anything else &quot;on that circuit&quot; is turned on it can blow the fuse, and my kids may have turned something on and voila, fuse blown.  Another effect of having left it plugged in was the keys were also in so it ran down my battery, unrelated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it was a 7.5A fuse in the &quot;internal&quot; fuse compartment (not the one under the hood) typically its one that deals with dash stuff/cig lighter or what not.  Replacing the blown fuse and check engine went off, car runs OK again (phew).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T17:35:18.073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T17:35:18.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23103" CreationDate="2015-12-08T16:53:39.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm taking my information from two sources, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/the-torque-vectoring-differential-on-the-lexus-rc-f-explained/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Digital Trends article&lt;/a&gt; and the good old &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/qwwFZAbYGW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engineering Explained video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digital Trends explains it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How this differs from a standard differential is that, where as a basic mechanical diff spins the outer wheel faster than the inner wheel (it has longer to travel), the TVD in the RC F employs electronic motors and actuators that apply pressure to multi-plate clutches that can control the distribution of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, while good ol’ physics will get the differential to split the torque between the wheels, the electronics can now influence things when it sees fit, “vectoring” the torque where it senses the car needs it the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a track application, putting a ton of torque on the inside wheel of a turn would basically put the brakes on it, having the outside of the car sort of pivot  around it, making tight corners easier to handle. Specifically for the RC F, there’s three modes that can be manually selected: Standard, Slalom, and Track. Standard (surprise) is the basic driving configuration, while slalom optimizes the response for quick left-right alternating experienced on twisty back roads. Track mode puts an emphasis on keeping the rear axle stable at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J8CbC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J8CbC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the way the differential works is it's an open differential. On either side of the differential, there are clutch packs which are motor actuated. These clutch packs lock up a planetary gear set. As the planetary is engaged, they lock the axle to the differential allowing the torque to flow out that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the clutch pack looks like with the planetary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMoju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMoju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a different model/manufacturer in a cutaway view, but the same basic premise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QAHu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QAHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as functionality, I see no &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; difference between using this setup, or using the ABS system to &lt;em&gt;stop&lt;/em&gt; a wheel from turning as much to provide torque to the other side of the vehicle. It is the same basic principle, just in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T17:16:06.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T21:16:17.433" Score="6" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Tahoe is not running well and conked out on me the other day.  I just had it repaired for some other reasons and the repair shop suggested we needed to have spark plugs replaced so it will run better.  However, before then, it ran fine.  I said no on the spark plugs, but now that I have it back it is running poor and I don't know how to describe it...  It is glubbing, missing, on the verge of conking. The same thing happened to our minivan years ago and in that case, it was simply an air flow tube that was not pushed in all the way and once we pushed it in, all was well again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9346" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T22:53:50.070" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T04:06:02.447" Title="2004 Tahoe Conking, Glub Glub Glub" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|rough-idle|stall|tahoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18013" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:15:32.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a cam within the ignition switch mechanism that pushes the locking pin out when the key is turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the mechanism is a complete component and when they have broken in the past on vehicles I have worked on owned I have simply replaced them.  Individual components within the ignition switch module cannot be purchased.  If disassembled they may be able to be repaired/cleaned/lubricated in order to return them to normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used parts merchants on various websites offer these ignition switch modules with key.  The downside of this route is that you would have two keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One for the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One for the seat/helmet lock/fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have three path's to resolution.  Buy new, buy used and disassemble and repair which, I believe on your model, requires a special torx or torx with pin tool.  Beware springs and ball bearing shooting out of the module upon disassembley, they are used to make contact and maintain it for electrical connections on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:15:32.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23118" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:17:55.293" Score="8" ViewCount="19110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Toyota Prius and I am worried that someone could amplify the signal of my contact-less key to unlock, start it and then drive it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Prius stall if the car is driven away and the signal of the key gets fainter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not (and there is no other security feature), I think I will just convert it to use a normal key to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T00:49:46.870" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T01:55:36.287" Title="Does the Toyota Prius stop if driven off without the key inside?" Tags="|toyota|security|keyless-entry|prius|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18640" CreationDate="2015-12-08T23:25:28.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are articles on motorcycle websites that have various lists such as 'Top 10 Low Maintenance Bikes' and such.  As well, there are various attributes of certain vehicles that are low maintenance.  For example, a motorcycle with a shaft drive does not require chain and sprocket adjustment, lubrication and replacement thus a reduced maintenance schedule.  Be aware that reduced maintenance cost typically increases manufacturing cost and that is passed onto the consumer and built into the overall price of the vehicle.  Typically this capital expense will not total the cost of maintenance for the life of the vehicle but it can price a vehicle out procurement range.  Another attribute of a low maintenance motorcycle is the cable clutch, cables require replacement.  A hydraulic clutch requires brake fluid to flushed occasionally, which is a relatively low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Consumer Reports subscription on their website will yield you ratings related to motorcycles and reliability but since I do not have a subscription that is all I can share.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel comfortable recommending Consumer Reports as it a not for profit entity that is NOT hawking goods other than a subscription of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answer is useful to you, best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T23:25:28.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23113" CreationDate="2015-12-09T00:29:38.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Zu7GSV-6XSM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video tells you a lot&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, this cannot happen. The Prius &lt;em&gt;knows&lt;/em&gt; where the key is at. If the key is on the outside of the vehicle, it won't start, period. If the key is too far away, it won't even unlock. If the key is left inside the vehicle and you try to lock the door, it won't let you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota engineers have thought a lot more about this than other car manufacturers have. There was an episode of Top Gear where the three guys came to the states and drove modern American muscle (Corvette, Mustang, &amp;amp; Challenger). Jeremy Clarkson was driving the Challenger. He parked it outside of a restaurant then went inside and sat down very near where the car was parked. One of the other two guys went outside, got in the Challenger, started it, then drove it out into the middle of the street before it died (from being too far away from the remote). Quite some hilarity. Point is, you couldn't even get that far in your Prius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe you have anything to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T00:29:38.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2015-12-09T00:47:36.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle Maintenance Tasks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tasks occur differently based upon the requirements of each manufacturer, find out what the intervals are for particular make/model/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cable lubrication - A graphite based lubricant, no oil based lubricants as they tend to have the hydrocarbons evaporate under heat and leave a sticky gummy feel to the cable and it's operation.  Clutch cable, throttle cable, rear brake cable if it has one&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate Kickstand - Oil based OK&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Adjustment - Check your valve clearance with a feeler gauge and remediate as necessary.  If you have a shim and bucket valve train you need the appropriate sized shims to perform this task.  If you have rocker arms you will adjust clearance with a pin and lock nut.  Depending on whether you have a paper or rubber valve cover gasket you may need to procure one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain Lubrication and Tension adjustment - Most motorcycles have similar mechanisms for pulling the rear wheel back and markers to align and adjust the rear wheel.  This is a regular event and chain throw should typically be between 1&quot; and 1.5&quot; inches.  Sorry for my stone age measurement reference but hey, I live in the States so this form of measurement is better than the entire rest of the world.  If you have an O-ring chain, just lubricate it.  Cleaning them with kerosene or any other obscene petrochemical will penetrate the O-ring seal and get inside of the chain and liquefy the grease inside.  Purchase a specialized cleaner for O-ring chains, it's worth it.  If it's a non-O-ring chain, clean it with whattever you want,  You can scrub it with a wire brush too.  Be sure you use compressed air or let it sit and get hot in the sun to evaporate whattever horrible product your using that's destroying our planet.  Check the chain for kinking and or any grinding feeling.  Move it around, don't be shy.  If it's grinding, that's probably particular matter the earth is kicking up disable your vehicle.  If it's grinding now it will accelerate wear.  DO NOT USE SOLVENTS, THEY WILL DESTROY O-RINGS.  Once your cleaning product is completely gone, use a special chain lubricant.  It will stick better to the chain.  Oil will just fling off and get everywhere, possibly even on your tire.  Lube it up good.  It likes it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Pressure/Tire wear/Tire damage - Check it and remediate.  Consult the website of the tire manufacturer to determine service limits of your tires.  Replace as necessary.  Check for damage, cuts, knurls, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the Spark Plugs - Goto your local MC shop and request the appropriate plug for you bike.  You don't need anything fancy, just the OEM replacement.  Before you remove the plugs make sure there is no debris in the plug hole, when you remove the plug the debris will fall in and well, that will suck.  We don't want to suck so we will use compressed air to assist the debris is getting gone.  Make the debris go away in the plug hole.  THEN remove the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - Check your pads, if the visible vertical groove cannot be seen, replace them.  Be careful, when you push the piston in on the caliper it will displace fluid in the reservoir on your handlebar for the fronts and the side for the rear.  You can use an old lint free towel to absorb some of the fluid before you depress the caliper pucks so it doesn't get on your gas tank or any other painted component.  Brake fluid eats paint.  Brake fluid is also water miscible so keep a bottle of water handy in case you get brake fluid on your bike.  Just splash water on it, lots of it and rub it away.  Be sure to validate the type of brake fluid you need.  Probably DOT 3 or 4.  Check your brake discs for grooves and/or bluing.  If they have a rainbow bluish hue to them they are glazed.  I've taken sandpaper and extended the life of discs.  600 grit.  I was broke kid when I did that, you should probably replace.  MC discs or too thin the resurface and the machine cutting bit will chatter across the disc and destroy it more.  Don't waste your time on that.  Throw it away and buy new.  Don't buy used.  It seems every unethical freak on the planet is selling his destroyed brake discs after replacement, they are consistently NOT GOOD.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery - Check the level of water.  Use distilled if you need to top it off.  No minerals in distilled.  If you use tap water.  Just throw your battery away.  It'll crap out soon enough.  Check your vent hose, two grooves where it joins the battery are apart of the backup venting. If the bottom of the hose, close to the ground, get's melted together from the exhaust pipe or some other inane incident.  Make sure the bottom of the vent isn't clogged with road grime or asphalt buildup..tar..or whattever.  If it, cut the end off.  Fixed.  Test the battery with a multi-meter, it should be 12.6 volts.  If you topped it off with distilled, you may want to run it for a few miles or charge it for a bit.  After you charge it, start it, drive it, stop it, then test.  You want to take the surface charge off it after the removal of the battery tender.  If it's not 12.6 volts, give it back to the planet through an appropriate recycling location because we care and our responsible members of humanity.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lights - Test your high and low beam with the bike running.  Test the turn signals, tail light and brake light.  You SHOULD test your brake light, front and rear brake, every single time you get on it and start because you have self esteem and care about your family and yourself.  Replace any light bulbs as necessary and never ride it with a low or high beam out or tail/brake light out.  We don't do that because we always look out for number one.  Replace bulbs as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolt Check - Go around the entire bike and ensure that all essential and safety related bolts, nuts and screws are properly torqued down.  You wouldn't want a wheel to fall off and get yourself killed.  Use locktite or a similar threadlocker all over the place especially if you have twin or single cylinder.  Bikes rattle themselves apart.  Check everything.  BE ANAL.  Lock it down.  Check, double check.  Your safety is paramount and you are a beautiful slave to the planet.  We need you to keep the production numbers up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil Change - Change the filter every other oil change.  use the recommended oil.  Look at the magnet on your drainbolt after your drain the case.  Does it have metal shavings on it.  Why?  Figure it out.  Usually you will have something and usually it's of no consequence but if you have a chunky gritty mess you will need to do some thinking and research.  BE SURE you put that drainbolt in and use a torque wrench to tighten it down.  I used to work in a shop and in my first year we had 8 customers that lost drainbolts after friggin shop did maintenance.  Imagine that.  Granted, the shop was a crap show, they hired me as teenager, and that my friend was dumb. Why?  Because I was teenager.  Luckily I never crapped on anyone but c'mon...it seems ridiculous but that is one that could really kill you when you hit the rear brake on a panic stop and that rear wheel is covered in oil and starts to come around on you.....exhale.  Seriously...be mindful, it's easy to get disorganized and lose track of where you are in the project and what you were/are/going to do.  Always double check.  Always double check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air Filter - Clean it, replace it, inspect it.  Get the crap out of it.  Make sure any debris that comes off doesn't fall in the airbox.  If some does, get a vacuum and get the debris gone.  It must go away.  You know why.  If you have a foam air filter, wash it with warm soapy water.  If you have a paper one, you can bang it out and blow it with compressed air but it will only last so long.  At some point you will need to toss it.  Oil the air filter (paper or foam) as stated by the manufacture.  Most paper filters do not get oil.  Look in your airbox.  Do you have a bunch of oil in there.  If you do, you probably have a PVC issue and are getting the result of too much blow by on your rings maybe.  If you've got a grip of oil in the airbox you have problems.  You will always have a little film though.  Spray some horrible hydrocarbon crap on a rag and wipe it down or use some earth friendly soapy thing and moisten a towel with it to wipe it out.  Check your oil drain hose.  It has an X on the end cut into it so it can drain oil.  Is it full of oil?  Why.  Is the reed valve on your valve cover for you PVC crapping on you, it might be.  Pull it out and inspect it.  Clean it.  Do the reeds snap shut?  If not, R&amp;amp;R.  That's fancy for Remove and Replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suspension.  Check your fork seals, if you have any oil coming out, you need to replace them.  That simple. Dry good, wet bad.  If it's dry, then the level hasn't changed in the fork so you don't need to pop the top of the fork to measure it unless it feels super springy because the last guy that touched it jammed you up and did crap work.  This one is up to you.  Springy, pop it and measure.  Your manual will tell you how deep.  Rear shock, same....wet is bad, dry is good.  If your rear is wet, you will need to have the shop rebuild it if it's OEM because you don't have a nitrogen charger.  Watch a youtube video on suspension adjustment and properly setup your dampening for rebound and compression.  As well, adjust your springs per the youtube.  You will know the credible video when you see it.  The guy won't slobbering on himself and cursing at his wife while drunkenly holds a jiggling cam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame - Visually inspect for cracks.  key locations...steering head, swing arm mount.  That's where all the magic forces are and frames to tend to fail in those locations if there going to.  That isn't to say you shouldn't look everywhere.  If you have a painted frame look for paint that is separating from the frame and for cracks in the paint.  Tell tale signs that something is amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Filter - Inspect and change.  If you use the ethanol because your country hates poor people eating corn you should probably change it pretty regular.  Ethanol is the beast and it makes everything fail.  Your fuel filter might not be an inline filter, it might be in your gas tank and apart of your fuel pump.  It's not that bad, read the directions in your hand OEM Shop Manual (not Haynes) and get to it and clean it.  If it's an inline, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor - This get's tricky.  Too much information for you already and my fingers are jammed up.  Adjust the air and fuel screw as necessary or not at all.  It's going to be your judgement and no amount typing is going to effect it.  If you have two carbs then you will need to get vacuum gauges and synchronize the carbs.  Never synch carbs before valve adjustment.  Only after.  Check vacuum lines and make sure the rubber and nice and pliable.  If it's heat baked and hard, toss it and replace it.  Or R&amp;amp;R, if you will.  No debate.  Not worth it, too cheap.  Away the hardened vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;FI - At some point maintenance would call for cleaning the injectors and replacing the O-rings or whatever sealing mechanism your bike uses.  Do it per the maintenance schedule.  When they begin to fail you get tiny air leaks that become worse over time.  The added oxygen increases combustion temp and can fry your exhaust valves in the summer.  There's no ODBII fanciness with bikes, each one is friggin snowflake with it's own unique way of getting error codes.  If you have an FI light on, look in the fancy shop manual (not the haynes, the official shop manual for the manufacture with all the good information that's accurate) and follow the instructions on how to pull the error codes, it's usually very simple and will typically involve removing a rubber cover off a loom connector and using a piece of wire to jump two leads together then all this magical information like error codes pops up on your display.  You can then reference your error codes in your fancy shop manual and take appropriate action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's all I got off the top of my head.  I'm sure I missed something like an oil drain bolt but hey, I'm only human.  I hope this is helpful.  Enjoy maintaining your bike.  It's empowering and awesome and makes us all more self reliant which more than it is less. Please excuse the bounty of typo's that I'm sure are everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:53:12.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T23:53:12.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23113" CreationDate="2015-12-09T01:32:19.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your concern is valid. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://jalopnik.com/5736774/how-hackers-can-use-smart-keys-to-steal-cars&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; gives a good description of the weakness of smart keys. A man in the middle attack can fool the car to think that the key is inside allowing it to start. Once the car is running it won't shut off if the key leaves the car. These keys are battery powered and if that battery dies while you are driving on the highway it may be dangerous if the car just shuts off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that this method takes two people and one of the people has to stand next to you for some time. It's just as easy to steal you keys or purse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T01:32:19.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23113" CreationDate="2015-12-09T03:55:00.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not stop mid-ride. It will warn you the key is no longer in the car, but as long as you don't turn it off, it will keep running until you run out of gas or the car battery dies. It would be a safety hazard for it to randomly die, or even a slow turn off. Imagine if you were on a 65mph high way when it happens, or in the middle of an intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, while rare, relay attacks can happen. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailytech.com/Are+Keyless+Entry+Hacks+Really+the+Source+of+Recent+Car+Break+Ins/article37339.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article has a good breakdown of it&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDbLA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDbLA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are paranoid about this happening to you, as the article says, stick your keys in a faraday cage, like your microwave or freezer. &lt;em&gt;Or a metal tool box at home.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3997" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T03:55:00.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23125" CreationDate="2015-12-09T07:12:58.197" Score="3" ViewCount="5114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen the design of so many cars out there specially there front panel where logo is rested, it really looks eye catching. What do we call that panel in automotive terms ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13583" LastEditorUserId="11120" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T19:03:42.253" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:03:42.253" Title="What is the area in front of a car where brand logo is held called?" Tags="|car|design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T07:35:19.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T07:35:19.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T07:35:19.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23123" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T07:35:19.480" Score="0" Body="An instrument for producing a current of air" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T15:32:51.790" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:32:51.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23068" CreationDate="2015-12-09T08:02:25.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is common for the ignition switch on this model to fail. It was the subject of a US federal government recall.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The way this switch is wired, if it fails, it can supply power to some systems and not to others. It has one power wire in and four out. In the on position it powers many systems with the black/yellow wire, the heater controls are powered separately from the yellow wire. The starter signal has its own wire, and the ACC position has its wire. &#xA;lack of power to the PCM is the most likely cause of the no start. The evidence for this is the lack of check engine light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Has anyone had a similar issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why don't the dash lights come on in position II like they should&#xA;  until I'm about to engage the starter in the ignition switch position&#xA;  III?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contacts for the one switch position are worn.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How would I go about trying to find where the weak connection is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for voltage on the black/yellow wire at the ignition switch wire harness connector with the switch in the on position. There should be around 12 volts. No power here means no power to the PCM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I can usually get the engine to start by not letting the key snap back to the run position but holding it just off the start position. This depends on the severity of the contact wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T08:02:25.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23121" CreationDate="2015-12-09T08:06:17.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general area could be called the &quot;nose&quot; of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the vehicle's design, the logo may be found on the bonnet/front hood, front grille or front fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmt1Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmt1Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW i8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Bonnet, BMW i8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4zwn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4zwn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mercedes G Wagon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Grille, Mercedes G Wagon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoUI4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoUI4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Maserati Ghibli&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Front Fender &amp;amp; Grille, Maserati Ghibli&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T08:06:17.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23113" CreationDate="2015-12-09T09:59:18.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a specific answer for a Toyota Prius, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This summer, we had an incident here in Germany, where the motor stopped after throwing the key out of the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.presseportal.de/blaulicht/pm/43738/3075461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;There's an online police report&lt;/a&gt;, so this is not a hoax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my short translation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A 33 year old mother was driving her VW Passat on the highway (German &quot;Autobahn&quot;) A1 near Lübeck with her 1.5 year old daughter on the right rear seat. As the daughter was whining due to tiredness, the mother gave her the key ring with the ignition key to play with. As the daughter didn't calm down, the mother opened the window a little, hoping the fresh air would help.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The daughter threw the key out of the open window, causing the motor to stop. The car was still steerable and the mother managed to stop on the emergency lane. &#xA;  The mother called the police, who searched for the key ring and finally found it. All keys including the ignition key were damaged, but the electronics survived, so the mother was able to drive home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this was a Volkswagen, not a Toyota, but it shows that bad thinks can happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the behavior of the car depends on what the engineers implemented and may vary from brand to brand, or from car to car.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my personal mind, the motor should not stop while driving, but on the next halt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T10:34:20.187" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T10:34:20.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2015-12-09T11:44:11.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://carmanuals2.com/get/nissan-stanza-1989-repair-manual-50851&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;workshop manual&lt;/a&gt; makes no mention of a fill plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After draining out the old transmission fluid via the drain plug and reinstating it, one option is to introduce the new ATF through the dipstick channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page AT-85 of the manual says that the transmission takes 6.8 L of ATF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T11:44:11.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23133" CreationDate="2015-12-09T12:56:33.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a compression tester kit and am a little puzzled by the purpose of the two rubber-ended attachments shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in assuming that these two attachments can be jammed into the spark plug hole without threading to perform a compression test? If so, wouldn't it blow out due to pressure build-up inside the cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGfdV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGfdV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Compression Tester Kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00MVGKJHU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;product description&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This item is perfect for checking compression on petrol engine quickly and accurately. &lt;strong&gt;It diagnoses problems quickly with 2 rubber cones ends which do not need to thread into head&lt;/strong&gt;. Our item is suitable for petrol engines on lawn mowers, motorbikes, cars, trucks and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T01:17:00.367" Title="What are these two rubber-ended attachments used for in a compression tester kit?" Tags="|tools|compression|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T13:19:36.567" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drivers blame the car while car makers blame the drivers. Dozens already killed and still no clear answer to what went wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems black boxes do not sense pedal action but are installed only to record a car's performance, hence the lack of evidence as to what the driver was doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13585" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T05:52:49.350" Title="Is there a car black box to help solve the mystery of Sudden Unintended Acceleration?" Tags="|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23134" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:37:27.967" Score="3" ViewCount="6933" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the different battery voltages trucks work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of 12v and 24v batteries, are any any systems that work with voltages above 24v?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can i safely get a 12 or a 24v system on any vehicle may it be a car or a truck or a heavy weight truck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13017" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:20:31.467" Title="Different Battery Voltage" Tags="|battery|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23129" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:39:24.170" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just hold the rubber ended bit against the plug hole whilst cranking the engine.  No, it does not blow out of the hole due to pressure build up.  This is how such a unit is designed to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different designs of tube allow use on different designs of engines, choose the one which feels most appropriate to the vehicle you are testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T14:39:24.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23132" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:20:31.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The early Volkswagen Beetles (the air-cooled, rear engine'd ones) started off with a 6 volt system, the same as some other classic cars and motorbikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are the 12 volt systems used in most cars and 24 volt used in trucks.  The truck systems typically use multiple 12 volt batteries wired in series to provide 24 volts.  This is certainly the configuration at my old MAN 7.5 tonne truck used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worthy of mention, although not in your original question, that there are two polarity of systems used in cars.  Older classic cars can be &quot;Positive Earth&quot; where the +ve terminal of the battery is wired to the chassis and electrical systems are &quot;wired&quot; back to the -ve terminal via the wiring loom.  Modern vehicles tend to run &quot;Negative Earth&quot; where the -ve terminal is wired to the chassis and the electrical system, via the wiring loom and fuse box, are attached to the +ve terminal of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not mix 6, 12 and 24 volt components but you typically will find that most modern trucks that run 24 volt will provide an accessory socket for 12 volt somewhere on the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking about converting a 12volt vehicle to 24volt, this is a very involved process as not only are all of the bulbs rated at the appropriate voltage, but all of the switches, the loom itself and systems such as the ECU are all designed to be run at 12volt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may help if you included the reason why your are asking the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:20:31.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:40:34.657" Score="1" ViewCount="2634" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car engine was stripped by Renault under warranty and fixed, now they want me to pay for replacing the clutch as they feel it will go soon. My question is aren't they supposed to replace the clutch kit as well when fitting the engine back to the car. Isn't that a rule that once you remove the gearbox from the engine when fitting everything back you need to replace all clutch kit components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am not a mechanic and feel they are ripping me off, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T19:06:07.917" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T20:21:02.477" Title="Do I need to replace clutch kit when refitting engine" Tags="|maintenance|clutch|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T18:10:39.597" Score="6" ViewCount="9464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda CB400 Super-Four. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike starts and rides but I can't get more than 5000rpm out of her. If I do then she floods and cuts out.  Two of her exhaust pipes are cold and two are warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13590" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:21:33.743" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T23:12:57.433" Title="Honda CB400 Super-Four - Power Issue" Tags="|motorcycle|ignition-coil|points|cb400|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23138" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T19:20:05.880" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T19:20:05.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:20:05.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23139" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T19:20:05.880" Score="0" Body="The luxury vehicle division of Toyota." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:00:11.113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:00:11.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23135" CreationDate="2015-12-09T20:21:02.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this isn't a rule and usually isn't done if not required. However, if an engine is removed because it needs to be rebuilt, it's usually the case that the clutch is worn enough to make it beneficial to do at the same time. Replacing the clutch when the engine is already out is usually pretty trivial, so it makes sense to do it at that time if the clutch has significant wear. It shouldn't cost you much more than a couple hours of labor plus parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many miles/kms are on your clutch? If the engine is being replaced under warranty that suggests that it doesn't have many miles/kms on it. If it's over 50K miles/80K kilometers then it's probably a good idea to go ahead and get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T20:21:02.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23082" CreationDate="2015-12-09T20:24:14.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple anti lag systems I am familiar with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VNT/VGT - The exhaust turbine fins move based on the wastegate.  This allows it to spool faster, then open up to be less restrictive at high RPM.  The 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT used the VNT turbo.  Porsche used a VGT turbo in recent years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this one has an official name, but I've always heard it referred to as a D-Valve or a dump valve.  It is basically a 1 way check valve installed on the upper intercooler hose.  This way there are 2 paths.  When you are not in boost, you pull through an air filter on the 1 way check valve.  Once you have sufficient boost in the intercooler hose, it closes the check valve.  You get better unboosted power since you don't have to pull through the intercooler and turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twin turbos will spool faster than 1 large turbo since you have smaller exhaust housings.  There are also sequential turbos where you have 1 small turbo for quick spool, and one larger turbo for higher boost.  You can use a supercharger / turbocharger setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball bearing turbos spool a lot faster than traditional turbos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T20:24:14.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T20:59:07.727" Score="2" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I replace the ATF in a 2007 Honda Odyssey w/ 208,841 miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numerous shops advise against drain/ refill. I last changed @ 144k &amp;amp; was advised not to do it ascI could encounter transmission problems as a result.  The car has been maintained and no transmission slippage or problems to date&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13592" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T21:41:59.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T21:41:59.060" Title="Transmission Fluid Change - High Mileage Vehicle" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|odyssey|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-10T15:16:44.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23143" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:01:13.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a Honda CB400-four&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYxul.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYxul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:55:59.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:55:59.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:01:13.670" Score="0" Body="A Honda 4 cylinder SOHC motorcycle sold in the 70's.  Approximately 100,000 models were sold under several variants. " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:00:16.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:00:16.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:03:32.690" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T21:03:32.690" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T21:03:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23146" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:03:32.690" Score="0" Body="A system used in turbo chargers to resolve turbo-lag.  ALS stands for anti-lag system." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:00:03.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:00:03.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23136" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:14:26.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two coils on that motorcycle.  One coil is for cylinder 2 and 3 the other is for cylinder 1 and 4.  It utilizes what is known as a wasted spark system, the spark is fired off on TDC compression and TDC exhaust strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You apparently have an issue with one of your two systems.  Each system, as you probably know, is comprised of two spark plugs, one coil and one point with condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one of these could be the source of your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Motorcycle Coil Test&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test your coil with a multimeter.  Set the multimeter to ohms and test between the low voltage primary wire and the ground wire.  Resistance should be 1 to 1.5 ohms.  Next, test the secondary high tension wire (attaches to spark plug) and the grounding bar that would touch your frame when it is mounted to the bike.  It should be somewhere between 5500 to 13000 ohms.  If you are outside of that you may want to consider replacement.  If the bike seems ok when it is cold and then loses spark once it's heated up, you could have an open inside the coil where the gap in the open is expanded due to the heat and is actually created when the coil get's hot.  You can test the coil when it's hot and then put it in your freezer for a bit and test it again to see if your results vary.  If they do, it's bad and you will need to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do a voltage test on your hot lead, of course it should be 12.6 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Errata&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your points are so cheap that they aren't worth testing and frankly, due to the cost, I have never researched or even attempted to test points and condenser on any of my old bikes.  Just R&amp;amp;R and move on regarding that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You indicated that the bike 'floods out'.  Do you have any evidence that the bike is actually flooding or is this just a feeling you have?  If it is flooding on your cold cylinders then it could be fouling those plugs which would explain why those cylinders are cold.  Initially, you can take a screwdriver handle, and vigorously tap the associated carburetors to free up the needle and seat in your float bowls.  If fuel is flowing through the system, be careful, it can leak into your cylinders and fill them with gas. When you go to try and start the bike you would get a hydro-lock condition and bend your connecting rods.  I've seen it happen to A LOT of people on older bikes with petcocks and carburetors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fear fluid has filled up your cylinders remove your spark plugs and turn over your engine by hand.  Any liquid will squirt out of your cylinders so place rag accordingly and have a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.  Once you've turned it over by hand, turn it over with the starter to eject any remaining fuel.  Allow the any remaining fuel to evaporate, if you have an air compressor shoot some compressed air around the area and into the cylinders to deal with the last of the fuel before you insert your spark plugs and attempt to start the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T23:37:18.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23148" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:02:34.420" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:02:34.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:02:34.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23149" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:02:34.420" Score="0" Body="the front suspension component of most modern motorcyles" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:20:19.943" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:20:19.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23150" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:40:04.110" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:40:04.110" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:40:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23151" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:40:04.110" Score="0" Body="Automatic Transmission Fluid or ATF is used in modern automatic transmissions to hydraulically shift gears and lubricate the internal components of the transmission" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:13:28.497" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:13:28.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:41:13.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:41:13.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:41:13.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:41:13.480" Score="0" Body="Compression testing is the act of testing the air pressure generated by a cylinder in an internal combustion engine." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:56.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:56.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23154" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:43:43.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highly successful GSXR line of performance motorcycles begun in 1985 has revolutionized motorcycle racing technologies with it's various generations of street motorcycles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a 1986 GSXR-750 Limited&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oyc07.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oyc07.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:20:52.997" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:20:52.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:43:43.367" Score="0" Body="A model line of high performance motorcycles manufactured by Suzuki Motor Co in Japan." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:12.967" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:12.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:45:37.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In motorcycling the petcock is frequently mounted to the gas tank to control flow of fuel.  Petcocks use various technology such as one way vacuum valves, ball valves and gate valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:52.857" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:52.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23157" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:45:37.970" Score="0" Body="A valve used to control the flow of fluid or gas." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:02.387" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:02.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23158" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:46:22.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:46:22.543" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:46:22.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23159" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:46:22.543" Score="0" Body="The switch that controls electrical power to a motor vehicle through the use of a key as security mechanism." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:38.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:38.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23200" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:47:41.813" Score="3" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a 2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT and it has done 90,000 KMs now. What is the best time to change its cam/timing belt? Is it by 100,000 KMs or 100,000 Miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13529" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:21:44.933" Title="Subaru Legacy cam belt change" Tags="|engine|subaru|timing-belt|belt|legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23161" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:48:36.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:48:36.803" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:48:36.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23162" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:48:36.803" Score="0" Body="A switch typically controlled by a cam connected to the distribuitor shaft to control the flow of current to a coil within an ignition system for an internal combustion engine" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:21:48.257" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:21:48.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23163" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:49:57.307" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:49:57.307" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:49:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23164" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:49:57.307" Score="0" Body="A two wheeled motor vehicle which incorporates pedals similar to a bicycle as a component of it's final drive system." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:17.223" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23165" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:51:30.743" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:51:30.743" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:51:30.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23166" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:51:30.743" Score="0" Body="A vacuum, electrical, or hydraulic driven component of a braking system on motor vehicles to multiple the manual force applied to a brake pedal operated by a driver" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:21:13.160" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:21:13.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23167" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:53:07.500" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:53:07.500" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:53:07.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23168" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:53:07.500" Score="0" Body="Abbreviated as CPS.  The crank position sensor detects a point on a crankshaft to supply electronic information related to timing in ignition system for an internal combustion engine" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:24.923" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:24.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:53:37.783" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:53:37.783" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:53:37.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:53:37.783" Score="0" Body="A model of motorcycle manufactured by BMW" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:17.543" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:17.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23171" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:55:09.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forced induction systems include turbo chargers, super chargers and blowers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a type of forced induction device called a supercharger&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5yit.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5yit.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:08:47.317" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:08:47.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23172" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:55:09.933" Score="0" Body="A method of increasing volumetric efficiency on an internal combustion engine." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:13:11.647" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:13:11.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23173" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:56:50.113" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:56:50.113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:56:50.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:56:50.113" Score="0" Body="A condition where liquid fills a cylinder on an internal combustion engine and prevents the engine from operating normally due to being hydraulically locked due to the liquids interference." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-10-14T21:31:29.247" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T21:31:29.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23175" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:58:59.237" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T23:58:59.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T23:58:59.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23176" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-09T23:58:59.237" Score="0" Body="An internal combustion engine that can experience valve to piston contact should the timing of the valves and pistons come out of synchronization." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:22:01.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:22:01.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23177" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:00:22.380" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:00:22.380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:00:22.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23178" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:00:22.380" Score="0" Body="A sensor that detects the pressure of oil in a closed tract system after the oil pump." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:21:55.210" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:21:55.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:00:51.847" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:00:51.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:00:51.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23180" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:00:51.847" Score="0" Body="An Australian motor vehicle manufacturer" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:31.173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:31.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23181" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:01:25.017" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:01:25.017" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:01:25.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23182" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:01:25.017" Score="0" Body="A British motor vehicle manufacturer" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:27.737" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:27.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23183" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:02:03.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:02:03.820" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:02:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23184" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:02:03.820" Score="0" Body="A type of forced induction system that is driven by the crankshaft of an internal combustion engine by belt, chain or gear." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:36.040" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:36.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23185" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:03:29.107" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:03:29.107" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:03:29.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23186" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:03:29.107" Score="0" Body="A motor vehicle manufactured by Ford Motor Company" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:35.083" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:35.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23187" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:06:09.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel pumps are designed to withstand the stresses of pumping gasoline and/or diesel.  Fuel pumps are designed with safety components to prevent the discharge of static electricity frequently associated with the pumping of fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of an electric fuel pump&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1iCE.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1iCE.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T03:14:20.173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T03:14:20.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23188" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:06:09.860" Score="0" Body="The pump or pumps in a vehicle fuel system that move fuel from the tank to the engine and that may also provide fuel pressure in gasoline engines. This pump may also be called the lift pump to distinguish it from the injection pump of a diesel engine." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T03:36:24.580" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T03:36:24.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23189" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:08:49.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:08:49.933" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:08:49.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23190" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:08:49.933" Score="0" Body="A transmission that is controlled by the operator of the vehicle to select an operator desired gear." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:15:21.603" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:15:21.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23191" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:09:47.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:09:47.173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:09:47.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23192" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:09:47.173" Score="0" Body="The act of creating something in principle for a use" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:13:39.080" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:13:39.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23193" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:10:55.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:10:55.087" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:10:55.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23194" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:10:55.087" Score="0" Body="A manual created to provide data and instruction related to the maintenance of a vehicle" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:23.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:23.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23195" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:11:28.683" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:11:28.683" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:11:28.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23196" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:11:28.683" Score="0" Body="A dual purpose motorcycle manufactured by Yamaha" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:42.230" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:42.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23197" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:12:20.670" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:12:20.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:12:20.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23198" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:12:20.670" Score="0" Body="A dual purpose motorcycle manufactured by BMW" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T00:14:05.833" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:14:05.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23201" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:16:12.903" Score="4" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been tracking the mileage on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2015/st-200698069/features-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2015 VW Golf&lt;/a&gt; (a non-intercooled turbo, but not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/guide-to-the-volkswagen-dieselgate-emissions-recall-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diesel&lt;/a&gt;, thank goodness). Of course, my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hngn.com/articles/131798/20150921/sheikh-flees-us-ferrari-race-beverly-hills-streets-video.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;driving habits&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-truth-about-epa-city-highway-mpg-estimates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;highway/city balance&lt;/a&gt; influence things greatly, but beyond that the data seems to show significant and durable changes in the mileage I'm getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm wondering: what other factors might influence my mileage in the long term? Some possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effects_of_global_warming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Persistent changes in outdoor temperature&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. summer versus winter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_rolling_resistance_tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a940/4199963/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Break-in_(mechanical_run-in)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engine break-in&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil changes, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;type of oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume my car has no malfunctions. I'd also be interested in which factors might have the greatest effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastEditorUserId="7354" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T01:22:49.287" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:16:26.227" Title="What non-driver, non-terrain factors can affect vehicle miles per gallon?" Tags="|engine|tires|gasoline|efficiency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23160" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:21:44.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subarupacific.com/recommended-105000-mile-service.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; (and another site I saw), the change interval for your Subie should be at &lt;strong&gt;105k miles&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:21:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23199" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:37:21.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things come to mind (though I'm sure there's a lot more):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;O2 Sensor:&lt;/strong&gt; As the front O2 (or lambda) sensor gets older, it gets &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt; (doesn't react as quickly). Due to this, as they approach end of life, you'll start seeing declining gas mileage numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MAF Sensor:&lt;/strong&gt; Your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor detects the amount of air being taken into your engine. This should be &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; cleaned about every other oil change with electronics or MAF cleaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Pressure:&lt;/strong&gt; Low air pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark Plugs:&lt;/strong&gt; Most vehicles have a 100k mile replacement on plugs. Once you get past this, you'll start seeing mileage decreases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winter Blend Fuel:&lt;/strong&gt; In the US, some States require different fuel blends for different times of the year. The winter blend fuels are notorious for lowering your fuel mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ethanol E85:&lt;/strong&gt; E85 has about 30% less energy per gallon of fuel. Due to this you need more of it for the same output. If you are running it, you'll see a &lt;em&gt;definite&lt;/em&gt; reduction in mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ethanol E10:&lt;/strong&gt; In the US you can still find stations selling non-ethanol blends. While you won't see the reduction you'll see with E85, you still have less energy per gallon of fuel with E10, so you'll see a hit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Weight:&lt;/strong&gt; You put down the &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of oil (conventional vs synthetic). While this has some validity, the &lt;em&gt;weight&lt;/em&gt; of the oil has a lot going on with it as well. A lot of newer vehicles use 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil, which is a lot easier to push through the orifices than 5W-30 or 10W30. While the lesser weight oil will give better gas mileage &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;use the weight your manufacturer specifies for your vehicle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. These newer vehicles are designed to handle the thinner oils. These oils will not give your engine the protection it needs if it's not designed to use them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just some I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are a plethora of them which could be cited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T00:37:21.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23236" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:40:30.677" Score="4" ViewCount="3906" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I step on gas in my G37 the throttle response is a bit lagged.  It has increased ever so slightly over the past 6 months.  Can someone explain what the cause of this might be and any preventative maintenance suggests I can employ to prevent it in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no codes being set in the PCM and no check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run the recommended fuel type of premium unleaded, follow all maintenance intervals and use all recommended fluids suggested by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T07:40:19.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T07:39:19.060" Title="2011 Infiniti G37 - Throttle Response Issue" Tags="|performance|throttle|infiniti|g37|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23204" CreationDate="2015-12-10T00:46:21.917" Score="4" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello and thank you for taking the time to read my post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Toyota 4runner with about 170k miles on it. I recently got the brake fluid drained and replaced, a new battery, and the radiator cap replaced and topped off the fluids on it. Recently we have had two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the car is having a tough time starting in the morning. I hear a clicking when I turn the key. Sometimes the engine starts to chug, but it takes a few goes to get it to actually start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last time I was driving, which was for about 40 minutes, white smoke started coming out from under the hood when I stopped at a stoplight. The smoke smells a little sweet but also burnt. I was close to home, so I drove home. It was about 5 more minutes of driving. When I got home, I turned off the engine and smoke was still coming out from under the hood. White smoke. I opened the hood and the smoke seemed to be coming from somewhere behind the engine, or, between the engine and where the driver would sit. I started to hear liquid falling so I looked under the car and there was quite a bit of yellow/green neon colored liquid falling to the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I don't know a lot about cars but I'm not completely mechanically challenged (I did have a huge K'Nex set as a kid). I would like to know if this is something you think I could fix myself or if it is something that I should take into a shop. I am tentative to take it into a shop because I just took it into Firestone for this problem. I spent 400 dollars. They charged me 125 dollars just to look at the car. I don't really want to do that again. At the end of the day I got a lot of stuff but they didn't actually fix the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do need to take it in somewhere, can I drive it without damaging the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13594" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:50:36.690" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:50:36.690" Title="1993 toyota 4Runner - White Smoke from under hood and neon yellow liquid leaking from somewhere" Tags="|toyota|maintenance|radiator|smoke|4runner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23203" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:01:06.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what's going on, but you are definitely leaking anti-freeze. Since it is coming from the back of the engine, it could be a bad freeze plug, busted heater hose, or cracked coolant fitting. I'm doubting it would be your coolant pump as that should be at the front of the engine. I highly doubt this is a head gasket leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can accurately diagnose where the antifreeze is coming from, I would doubt you are going to be fixing this yourself. Even if you can find it, I think the odds are probably about 50/50 you can fix it. The cracked fitting/busted pipe scenarios wouldn't be too tough to fix. Fixing a leaking freeze plug would not be easy for the uninitiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd get a couple of estimates on how much it's going to cost to get it fixed. Ask your friends who they'd take their car to and follow their advice. I &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; find the national chains to leave you wanting with second rate tire changers trying to do the repairs for you. You never know what you're going to get (or get charged, for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T01:01:06.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23208" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:17:58.070" Score="6" ViewCount="3417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently, moments ago, saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23142/transmission-fluid-change-high-mileage-vehicle#comment34719_23142&quot;&gt;in a post&lt;/a&gt; a mention of a reverse flush in reference to an automatic transmission fluid change.  The responder mention the dangers of a reverse flush and that many of the quicky oil change places use this method.  I've also read this before but don't what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a reverse flush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T08:29:27.540" Title="Automatic Transmission - Reverse Flush, what is this procedure and why is it dangerous?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|transmission-fluid|atf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:30:11.543" Score="6" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Toyota Tacoma 2012 Sport long bed. I'm an artist and I make driftwood horse sculptures. I have two horses on the bed of the truck currently which comes to about 500 lbs. I intend to cruise around NYC to show my horses to a few clients for the entire weekend. I'm wondering if it is bad for the truck's suspension to keep the load on for an extended period of time. Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13596" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T09:21:50.017" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T09:21:50.017" Title="Load on bed of pickup for extended period of time" Tags="|toyota|suspension|truck|tacoma|payload|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23206" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:33:26.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reverse flush is where the maintenance guy will disconnect a fluid line for the transmission, usually at the radiator (or cooler), then attach a flush machine to fill the gap between the connections. They will then fill the machine with fresh transmission fluid and start pumping it through your transmission lines backwards of normal flow. This pushes fluid through the filter, cleaning it, and then transports the dirty fluid out to a waste catcher inside the flush machine. It keeps changing fluid until most all of the dirty (old) fluid is exchanged for new fluid, which won't happen if you use the &quot;drop the pan&quot; method. This method allows the change of fluid and a cleaned filter inside the transmission without the need to remove the transmission pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method isn't necessarily &lt;em&gt;dangerous&lt;/em&gt; for your transmission, especially for something like a first time flush. With older transmission, you'll find the transmission can have buildup which replaces the worn parts of soft parts (clutches, bands). When you do a reverse flush on these transmissions, there is the &lt;em&gt;possibility&lt;/em&gt; this buildup will be removed. You wonder why this might be a bad thing? When you remove the buildup, all you have is worn bands/clutches left. Sometimes, after the flush, you'll find your transmission starts slipping and rebuild or replacement will be following not long after. The buildup will actually support the transmission and allow it to last longer than without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you perform regular scheduled maintenance and the fluid is changed on time, this buildup will usually not occur. The reverse flush can usually be done without issue. It's in the older trannies which have not had the fluid changed where you'll usually see issues starting not long after a flush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T01:33:26.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23207" CreationDate="2015-12-10T01:36:49.353" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your truck is designed to carry that load.  If you consider carrying a full set of passengers.  1 in the front, 3 in the back, that weight would exceed your current load of 500 pounds.  I would not be concerned at all regarding doing on what you plan on doing.  In fact, make it 1,000 pounds and do it, your truck would handle that just fine although it may accelerate slower and take a bit longer to stop.  Enjoy your new truck, I have a 2013 and put a lot of weight in regularly.  I pick up used motorcycles and fix them up frequently.  Recently I went to LA, picked up two of them, drove around town on city streets meeting up with friends and drove back to Phoenix.  It handled it just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official load for your vehicle is 1,465 pounds and the towing capacity is 3,300 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T01:42:53.653" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T01:42:53.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1134" CreationDate="2015-12-10T04:28:03.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check around your engine bay. There may be a sticker indicating the last timing belt change if mechanic did stick it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuE6E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuE6E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13529" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T05:13:07.977" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T05:13:07.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T04:48:02.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been hearing metal-on-metal like squeaking sounds from my front right wheel well for a couple of weeks. It started off almost negligible and now it's nearly continuous; although, I don't hear anything when I'm on the highway doin 70. I'm suspecting a wheel bearing issue. Since I can't get it in the a shop till next week, how terrible is it to drive on it for another 200-300 miles before it gets replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:25:04.067" Title="Driving on bad wheel bearing 04 F-150" Tags="|ford|f-150|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23130" CreationDate="2015-12-10T05:52:49.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unintended acceleration is a complex problem. It can be caused by hardware failures, software failures, the driver and at times even passengers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driver panic is a real and common cause, it is challenging for the distracted, and then, surprised to brain to react quickly and properly. It is common for the driver to believe the brake is being to pressed with natural a response to press harder... on the gas pedal.  A foreign object holding the gas pedal down, whether it be the floormat or loose article, is usually a driver caused incident. This is under driver control.  Blaming floormat to pedal interference was the first try in the Prius case. It is probable that it happened but was not the only cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardware causes: Stuck gas pedal, sticky accelerator cable, malfunctioning throttle actuator: These can and do happen. Proper inspection and maintenance can find most, but not all of these. This was the second try in the Prius case, it was thought that the pedal case was causing the problem, many were modified but it was not proven to be the true cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software causes: Poorly written PCM code has caused this problem. This was found to be the primary  problem in the Prius case. The outside experts who were allowed to review it were appalled at how poorly it was written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a black box?  Not specifically.  Some PCM’s can and do record data, however I know of none that make this available, or even make it known. One presumes that the OEM would use it in a legal case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Devices are available that will record 24 hours of OBDII generic data. This data includes the throttle position information for many vehicles. Starting on or about MY 2009 This data would include all of the throttle pedal and throttle actuator data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a vehicle does anything I do not like I plan to turn off the power and ride out the poor braking and steering that result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T05:52:49.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23211" CreationDate="2015-12-10T06:20:12.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds more like brake pads are worn out. But with the possible safety issues I would agree with the other answer or comment that this should be looked at by someone knowledgeable ASAP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T06:20:12.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23199" CreationDate="2015-12-10T09:03:53.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some obvious factors that haven't been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt; - if you carry a full load of passengers (or other heavy stuff), mileage will drop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aerodynamics&lt;/strong&gt; - open windows, add-ons like badly-adjusted spoilers, and dented or missing parts of the body will drag you down, especially when driving fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AC&lt;/strong&gt; - adds directly to fuel usage the more often and intensely it is run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13603" LastEditorUserId="13603" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T12:16:26.227" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:16:26.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23199" CreationDate="2015-12-10T10:52:32.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not forget how long has elapsed since the last vehicle service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because components like spark plugs require regular replacement to keep your engine efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, things like the condition of the brakes can have a massive effect on gas mileage.  For example, a brake that isn't releasing cleanly and hangs on slightly is akin to driving with your handbrake engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things like your car being clean and polished can have a negligible effect as a dirty car won't slip through the air as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest, if you are interested, do some further research on &quot;Hypermiling Tips&quot; and you will find whole communities dedicated the achieving the best possible MPG from a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T10:52:32.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23211" CreationDate="2015-12-10T12:25:04.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree this sounds more like a brake pad issue than a wheel bearing issue. The main reason is, with a wheel bearing issue, you will &lt;em&gt;feel it&lt;/em&gt; more than you'll hear it. When the wheel bearing is bad enough to hear it, it's to the point where it is a &lt;em&gt;true&lt;/em&gt; safety issue and you shouldn't be driving it anymore. If it were the wheel bearing at this point, you'd only be causing damage to other parts of the front suspension by driving it more, so you'll be creating more of a repair bill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pads have a part on them called a &lt;em&gt;squealer&lt;/em&gt;. This part is designed to make noise when the brake pads get down to a certain thickness. They only make noise at slower speed (or you just cannot hear them over road noise at higher speeds). It would be easy for you to take a look at your front brake pads to see how thick they are. As long as the brakes are not metal on metal, you could drive the vehicle without too much of a worry WRT to safety. If they are metal on metal, you need to get it taken care of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T12:25:04.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16187" CreationDate="2015-12-10T13:24:27.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;click&quot; is probably the brake pedal switch turning on when the brake pedal is depressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;squeal&quot; is will be due to the brake pads coming in contact with the brake discs. Some brake pads are designed to squeal to indicate that they are nearing the end of their useful life. Sometimes the squeal is caused by contamination of the brake pads with fine dirt or debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T13:24:27.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13059" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:22:15.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my research is right, your bulb is a 9005 halogen bulb. When you replace these, it is IMPERATIVE that you do not touch the bulb with your bare fingers (the glass part) as this will dramatically reduce the bulb's longevity. I'm saying if you touch it, you can expect the bulb to last about two to three weeks, tops. It absolutely kills these bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T14:22:15.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:32:18.650" Score="7" ViewCount="4115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to pep boys because i heard squealing and my pads were worn down. he also told me that i needed to replace my rotors so not knowing anything i did but i asked them tog ive them to me so i could make sure they were not screwing me over and they did.  i had 2 mechanics look at them and they said they did not need to be replaced yet.  can you guys look at them and tell me if i have been taken?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UAii.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UAii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13605" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:40:59.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:40:59.687" Title="Rotor Replaced and MY Car is only 3 years old" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23221" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:41:38.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot tell from &lt;em&gt;just looking at them&lt;/em&gt; (in most cases) ... you have to measure the thickness of the rotor to see if they need replaced. Also, it's hard to tell from the picture how deep the wear is on the rotor. The grooves could be 1mm deep, or 5mm deep ... it's really hard to tell. It really comes down to how thick the rotors would be &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; machining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To assuage your fears a little, most times it is only just a little more expensive to replace the rotors than to have them machined. Replacement with brand new is not a bad thing most of the time. If I do them myself, I will almost always replace over machining, just because of the time it saves me from having to take it to a shop. Since you were already at the shop, that factor isn't there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T14:41:38.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23221" CreationDate="2015-12-10T14:42:13.520" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know if a rotor needs to be replaced is measuring it with a micrometer and comparing that to the manufacturers specifications, so, no, we can't tell you if it needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since this was your first brake job I seriously doubt they needed to be replaced.  Common practices is to &quot;turn&quot; rotors when doing a brake job.  The turning process is putting it into a special machine that cuts off the surface layer of the disk, creating a smooth surface again.  This normally removes only a very small amount of material and rotors can usually be turned several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let the brakes go so far that the metal backing of the brake pads made huge grooves in the rotor, they may not be turntable, but other mechanics said they were ok, so that's not the case.  Also, if the rotors were warped (steering wheel shaking while braking, so you would know if they were warped), then sometimes they can't be turned and will have to be replaced.  Well, you can turn them, but they can quickly re-warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, I'd ask the service manager &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they needed to be replaced, because with the limited information available, I don't see a need (and more importantly, neither did the other mechanics that you asked in person -- I'd trust them over me, but this &quot;technical&quot; explanation is probably helpful as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T14:42:13.520" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:02:53.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use either Seafoam, or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/16486/7132&quot;&gt;home brewed seafoam alternative&lt;/a&gt; in your crank case to clean it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-use-seafoam-to-clean-your-engine-the-right-way.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to use SeaFoam to clean your Engine – The RIGHT way!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, you’ve got another can of Seafoam, right? Good. This can is going to be used to clean oil rings and lifters, clean built-up oil residues and contamination from the crank case, and clean the PCV system. You’re going to use 1.5 oz per quart of oil. Check your owners manual (or, again, ask on the forum). If you have a 5-qt oil capacity, you’ll be using 7.5 oz of Seafoam (roughly half a can). While the company claims you can leave the Seafoam treatment in your crankcase until your next oil change, I’ve found that most engines with higher miles have a LOT of nasty buildup, which can really take a toll on your oil filter. Therefore, I like to do an oil change roughly 50 – 100 miles after adding Seafoam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other half of the can? Add it to the crankcase after you change the oil if you had a lot of sludgy buildup, OR dump it in your fuel tank at your next fill-up. Seafoam is safe to leave in the crankcase with clean oil until your next oil change, and it’s also a great product to clean your injectors and fuel system. In fact, it’s even credited with helping remove some of the deposits that cause a faulty fuel gauge reading in some cars!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:02:53.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16202" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:45:39.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that by &quot;air filter sensor&quot; you're referring to the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cleaning it helped temporarily, this is usually a sign that the sensor is on its way out and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one test that you might be able to perform to corroborate that it is in need of replacement. Some vehicles are able to run in a fallback mode in the absence of signal from the MAF sensor, so one quick test to confirm that the MAF is bad will involve disconnecting the MAF to see if it improves driveability. If the driveability improves dramatically, there is a strong chance that your issue is the MAF sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:45:39.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2015-12-10T19:43:20.797" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;bcm= body control module&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;it is one of many computers in modern cars. It reports back to the main computer with trouble codes. read on a scanner unit  most shops should but probably don't have.the bcm involves accessories like windows up and down, and a bunch of other things.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13615" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T19:43:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23326" CreationDate="2015-12-10T20:02:25.360" Score="4" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a marine 1977 Perkins T6.354 6 cyl, 6 liter turbo diesel.  There are different types of coolant available and I've done significant research into this question and have not found a clear answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the diesel information available pertains to modern wet sleeve diesels and they recommend the modern D-6210 spec, which come in different flavors (HOAT, OAT, NOAT).  These formulations have improvements around corrosion and pitting over &quot;traditional coolant&quot; that is D-3306 spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the antifreeze at the parts shop are D-3306, with one bottle of 6210.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a dry sleeve engine with probably an old head gasket. My concern is the newer 6210 may not be compatible with it. The original spec in the manual recommended an outdated formulation that is no longer available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use D-6210 or D-3306?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;RR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T21:15:03.880" Title="Coolant type for 1977 Diesel" Tags="|coolant|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21908" CreationDate="2015-12-10T20:29:02.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will be power produced by this engine? &#xA;It is putting out net zero power if you are in neutral. Gross power output is just enough to overcome friction and any load from the alternator, a/c or other accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will be power produced by this engine? &#xA;See Peter's answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it equal to max power or less than that and when I will apply load than it will produce max power?&#xA;Max power is based on a chart that come with diesels and shows the curve of torque vs rpm. The curve looks like a mountain, where the torque increases as the RPMs increase, then there is a peak and the engine looses efficiency and the curve slopes down as the RPMs increase.  The maximum torque is attained under wide-open throttle when you have enough load that your RPMs are at the peak in the curve on the chart.  This is commonly around 80% of the max-rated RPMs on a diesel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example, let's say this engine is on truck and the peak torque for your engine is 2400 RPMs.  You are driving up a hill that is getting steeper and you have the pedal to the floor (wide open throttle).  When you hit 2400 RPMs your engine is putting out it's maximum amount of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:29:02.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23221" CreationDate="2015-12-10T20:51:28.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squealing can be caused by a pattern of grooves in the rotor that make it look like an old vinyl record.  The thickness of the rotor makes no difference on squealing, so even if there was plenty of meat left on the rotor it still needed servicing.  Depending on how thick the rotors were you might have been able to machine them instead of replacing them - but sometimes the cost is the same so you might as well stick with new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanics dread customer complaints about squealing brakes and many professionals will do the pads and rotors at the same to best eliminate the probability of squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did my brakes and only replaced the pads and this resulted in squealing.  I had to go back and replace the rotors to eliminate the squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go back to the mechanic who said the rotors were fine and told him the problem was squealing he would likely tell you to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:51:28.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22103" CreationDate="2015-12-10T21:00:29.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspect and clean out the oil drain hose from the bottom of the turbo.  High pressure oil enters the top of the turbo, goes through the bearings, and then exits the bottom into a tube that runs to the crank case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this tube gets even slightly blocked it causes the oil pressure to increase in the turbo and it will seep past piston-style seals.  If it's seeping out of the exhaust side you won't see blue smoke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's seeping out the intake side it will enter the aftercooler.  When enough oil enters the aftercooler and plugs the passageways a big pressure differential builds up to the point that it will force the passageways to clear out, like a cough, and then it builds up again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T21:00:29.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23233" CreationDate="2015-12-11T00:04:02.557" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought a car in a state that has a lot of snow. We then moved to a state where it never snows. A letter from my car manufacturer says that we can get a free anti-corrosion material applied since they did not do it properly at the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: would doing it be more beneficial than just taking the car through an under-carriage car wash at a gas station once? Since they don't use salt on roads here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13620" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T00:18:21.773" Title="Undercarriage corrosion when move away from states with snow" Tags="|rust|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23232" CreationDate="2015-12-11T00:18:21.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always good to oil the underneath regardless if there is salt on the roads or not. You will preserve the metal and increase the life of your vehicle. Once rust starts, it spreads like cancer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I would wash the underside and then get it undercoated. They should be washing the vehicle before they spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T00:18:21.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23246" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:31:27.960" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Isuzu trooper and I have been toying with the idea of doing an engine and transmission swap on it. If all goes well with the engine I plan on getting I would like to replace the transmission with it. The current transmission is a super under powered GM 4l30e and a truck the size of the trooper deserves better. If I were to put a manual transmission in it what all would I need to do in terms of electrical systems to make it all work. Without the 4l30e hooked up to the electrical connections won't the PCM throw codes and freak out? Is there a way to prevent this or would the PCM need to be replaced or reprogrammed in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:11:36.413" Title="What would go into a tranny swap on a modern vehicle" Tags="|engine|electrical|transmission|isuzu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23248" CreationDate="2015-12-11T06:48:47.590" Score="1" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My power steering became very creaky, all of a sudden one cold, foggy night. The next morning, my power steering fluid was half the maximum level. By night, it was all empty. Clearly I have a leak. The wheel was harder to turn at night than in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know to look for leaks, and how to figure out where the actual leak is theoretically (they appear at gaskets and seal locations). But in my Hyundai Sonata 2000, I don't know specifically where the power steering assembly locations or potential leaks would be. The manual obviously doesn't quite have everything in detail, although it would give me some ideas where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) How can I tell if it's my pump or just a part in the pipes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Would a cold day make gaskets more susceptible to failure for the same amount of pressure (steering wheel turning)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) The manual recommends PSF-3 power steering fluid, but can I use something like &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007PZNNWK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Presterone AS-269Y for asian vehicles&lt;/a&gt;&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9146" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:36:43.173" Title="Power Steering Failure - caused by cold? which fluid?" Tags="|hyundai|power-steering|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23202" CreationDate="2015-12-11T07:39:19.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some throttle lag is normal on electronic throttle equipped engines. Most drivers do not notice it. But those who do often ask why. The lag strategy is done so that the fuel control system can stay in closed loop control in an effort to keep the fuel mixture at stoichiometric during acceleration. Older systems designed for the less stringent emission limits in force at that time could be certified with cable actuated systems that do a poor job of fuel control on acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This model should be checked to see if service bulletin ITB12-027 applies. It corrects several transmission shift problems, some of which present as acceleration lag. It updates the software in the engine and transmission computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience cleaning the throttle body has helped with poor idle but not acceleration lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T07:39:19.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T08:19:51.210" Score="0" ViewCount="3038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to calculate the battery life of a car based upon OBD2 parameters like engine load, distance traveled, Control Module voltage etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please guide me as to how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, at least the time taken for discharging the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T17:40:51.560" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T17:40:51.560" Title="Calculate car battery life using OBD parameters" Tags="|electrical|battery|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T09:40:41.277" Score="8" ViewCount="6413" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda Accord, everything lights up fine but it has a really strange “groaning” noise, kinda quietly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then after a few tries it starts up perfectly fine. Sometimes it starts up first time, occasionally it starts half way through a groan (though usually when it groans I stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of it, groans twice, starts the third time. The second attempt (15 seconds in) is the easiest to hear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/CNcDxwhi6vE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/CNcDxwhi6vE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the troubleshooting I've seen even mentions this groan — I'm hoping its something like the ignition switch or a relay, but maybe the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for taking the time to read this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13515" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T18:26:21.623" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T22:42:04.273" Title="2003 Honda Accord - Intermittent no start/no crank" Tags="|honda|starting|noise|ignition|accord|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23237" CreationDate="2015-12-11T10:32:48.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to achieve this using OBDII for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is charging while the engine is running, so monitoring battery voltage in this state will give a false impression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery health is assessed while it is not being charged and under load. Unless there is a heavy electrical load like headlights, the battery will not be under sufficient load to do this with the engine off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T10:32:48.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18228" CreationDate="2015-12-11T10:48:16.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that your fuses are fine, the logical explanation would be a break in the wiring that is common to all the affected components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the power windows indicate that they are on a different electrical circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious thing to check is the area around the stereo since that is where the wiring was disturbed the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T10:48:16.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2015-12-11T10:51:47.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was Under Sync Services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the OP clicked the Weather option it went to the nav screen with a radar overlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be related to sync and Sirius. The Sirius subscription says &quot;weather&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T10:51:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19086" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:10:25.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBDII is a (nearly) universal standard, but many different &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_signal_protocols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;signal protocols&lt;/a&gt; exist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that they haven't implemented the signal protocols that are used by non-US manufacturers. If so, the issue would be one related to vehicle support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't hurt the vehicle to try using the device; in the worst case, the device will not be able to establish connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:10:25.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19681" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:39:54.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key bit of information missing from the question is whether the battery was reading 14.1 V with or without the jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the reading was taken with the jumper cables on the battery, it would indicate that the battery is not getting charged by the alternator when the jumper cables are removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a break in the battery-charging ciruit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery terminal corrosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bad wire in the battery-charging circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:39:54.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23238" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:49:29.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I'd replaced ALOT of these working at the dealership. It wasn't just the accords either, it was quite a few Honda and Acuras that used the same design and power delivery system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common issues I saw out of probably close to 100+ failures of these was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground strap on the starter becoming corroded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad ground to engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your power lead corroded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad ground or relay for your ignition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bendix pin or the solenoid on the starter itself not moving smoothly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that more times than not, it was the starter itself. Usually the pin would get corroded and jammed, or corrosion would occur on the connections at the starter itself. The fact that it starts up probably means that &quot;Something&quot; is wrong with the starter itself. Couldn't hurt to clean up everything while you're doing it though =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also that sound could very well be the starter, but it is a bit reminiscent of a relay or circuit breaker going bad. When the coil inside the relay burns, or the armature gets contaminated by something they can sometimes act up and look fine but will make that odd whining sound. Just food for thought though, I'd replace the starter and check all your cable while you're there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:49:29.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19074" CreationDate="2015-12-11T11:59:37.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is nothing I'd be worried about. It Just looks like some discoloration and not burnt marks. It looks really clean and that's the main thing I'd be worried about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T11:59:37.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23234" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:11:36.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're talking about a large job.&#xA;It's not as simple as &quot;swap and go&quot;. Unfortunately. When doing something like this you would need to have fabrication skills (Welding and minor metal working skills). You would need to be very familiar with automotive electrical and or know people that are. You will need a good steady hand and geometry skills so everything lines up perfectly once you're ready to install it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECM and wiring loom will have to be replaced with either a completely custom ECM/Loom or you would have to use the loom from the engine you're swapping into your Trooper. You could theoretically pull the loom and ECM out of a car that has the engine you want and put it in. Personally I would just buy an entire custom ECM and loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what your putting in it you may need to move the firewall and actually re-engineer certain things under the hood to get the results you want. The ECM and TCM will freak out if you try wire up the swapped loom to the stock ECM of the Trooper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your transmission goes, there are companies that make custom bell-housings to mate up transmissions to just about anything. As far as electrical involving the transmission, you'll need to consult with a factory diagram of it's wiring and go from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked with guys on projects where they swap motors in and out of little race cars and it's a very long and tedious process if you want it done right, but if you take your time and learn as you go you'll be good to go. Just do as much research ahead of time so it doesn't go from a project to a pain in the butt. Good luck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:11:36.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19086" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:18:32.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to say that this is really strange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are several different protocols, of which a few are mandatory in the US. Why should VW implement two (or more) protocols, one for the US marked, one for the rest of the world?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a cheap OBD-II  Bluetooth dongle which works fine with all Android OBD-II Apps so far. As all protocols are supported (tested during initialization), it seems not to be a problem to implement them into the dongle / app. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the fact that this app / system is so comprehensive, this technical issue sounds more like an excuse. Maybe, they don't want return shipments from foreign countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beneath the pure technical functionality of reading out the data from the car and displaying them nicely, the system offers some non-technical features like an emergency agent who calls you in case of a detected crash etc. This service is not (yet) available outside the US, as it also needs some infrastructure. However, they could still say that this services are only available in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading their &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.automatic.com/automatic/topics/is_automatic_available_in_other_countries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; about the &quot;why not&quot; and &quot;&lt;strong&gt;how it's still possible&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; reveals that the system reads out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VIN&lt;/a&gt; of the car, which &lt;em&gt;only in the US&lt;/em&gt; contains some additional technical information. They use this for some purposes and get stuck when it doesn't follow the US scheme. Hence, if you want to try the system with a non-US car, you have to send them your VIN first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, it's strange. Why do they develop an own OBD-II device supporting just a subset of all protocols, when such devices are available for all protocols for a few bucks on ebay. Even when they added some features, why not starting from something existing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:18:32.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23235" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:36:43.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) How can I tell if it's my pump or just a part in the pipes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to figure out &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; where it's leaking from. To do this takes a little sleuthing, but it shouldn't be too difficult. The easiest way to do this is to refill the reservoir, run the engine, then work the power steering while sitting still. You then get on the ground and see where the fluid is dripping. This may take several iterations to tell exactly, but it should be self evident. You shouldn't have to work the steering too much to get it to leak, as all it needs is pressure. Assuming you didn't see any spots on the driveway already, it indicates the leak is going to be on the pressure side and probably not the pump or return hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Would a cold day make gaskets more susceptible to failure for the same amount of pressure (steering wheel turning)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how cold, but yes. Most vehicles are designed to work just fine in cold down below freezing, but when you get to the -40 and below area, things tend to start breaking much quicker. (This really depends on what you mean by cold.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) The manual recommends PSF-3 power steering fluid, but can I use something like &quot;Presterone AS-269Y for asian vehicles&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, I see that PSF-3 is an extinct breed and Hyundai recommends using PSF-4 in its place. However, it appears a lot of people have used this in place of the PSF-3 without detriment (IOW - Use at your own risk, but it should probably be just fine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T12:36:43.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23250" CreationDate="2015-12-11T12:44:53.933" Score="3" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a flat a few days ago and took it to the dealer to be fixed. He asked if I wanted the same tires and I said yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got it back yesterday, and saw today that it is not the same tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other 3 tires are Hankook Optimo H727 P205/55R16 89T. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one they put on is a Hankook Optimo H725b P205/55R16 89H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried googling some comparisons but could not find anything useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't open for another 3 hours so I can't call and ask what's going on just yet. I would just like to know if this is worse than I think it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole reason I noticed was because when I woke up my low tire pressure signal was on so I checked my tire and it was at 20psi...not sure if that was just a coincidence or if that actually has something to do with it being the wrong tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2010 VW Jetta TDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13628" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T13:04:00.520" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T13:04:00.520" Title="Dealer put on a different tire than the rest, is this bad?" Tags="|tires|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23249" CreationDate="2015-12-11T13:03:30.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dimensionally, the two tires are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference between the two is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35&quot;&gt;speed rating&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; indicates that the tire can be safely used for speeds up to 130 mph (210 km/h)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; denotes tire suitability for speeds up to 118 mph ( 190 km/h )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in terms of compatibility the new 'H' tire should be fine. The low pressure may be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;underinflation at the tire shop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manufacturing defect in the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improper seating of the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leak in the tire valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a puncture post-installation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T13:03:30.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18228" CreationDate="2015-12-11T14:43:47.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dodge loves running lots of circuits through the radio (this is not uncommon). If you missed one of the plugs on the back of the radio or damaged one or more of the wires that could definitely cause your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T14:43:47.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23265" CreationDate="2015-12-11T14:53:28.843" Score="3" ViewCount="46342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am selling a car in Ohio and downloaded the generic Bill of Sale form from this website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dmv.org/images/bill-of-sale.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the Seller Registration Number field is used for? Is it my driver's license number, license plate number, or something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on Ohio's BMV website to check my vehicle registration (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oplates.com/Home/LoginVR?returnUrl=%2FVR%2FPlate%2FCheckRegistrationSelect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.oplates.com/Home/LoginVR?returnUrl=%2FVR%2FPlate%2FCheckRegistrationSelect&lt;/a&gt;), but the only number provided is the license plate number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11964" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:48:55.740" Title="What is the Seller Registration Number on a Bill of Sale?" Tags="|registration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-12T15:49:51.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23260" CreationDate="2015-12-11T15:20:04.827" Score="7" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just driving on the highway and went to pass someone uphill, so I went to put it into 4th gear (from 5th or 6th). I somehow made the mistake of putting it into 2nd and the engine screamed and probably hit about 9k or 10k RPMs (redline is like around 7k). Right after I heard the engine jump up, I quickly put it into 4th. I have a 2015 Honda Fit with an L15B engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How badly did I mess up and is there any types of checks I should do (or have a mechanic do)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T18:14:25.357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T22:52:24.183" Title="2015 Honda Fit iVTEC - Shifted into 2nd Gear at Highway Speeds" Tags="|engine|honda|rpm|fit|redline|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T16:09:06.837" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying a 1980 Civic hatchback but the clutch needs work. He says that you can feel the gears but it won't engage. Does that mean it needs a new clutch or transmission fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13630" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:52:00.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:52:00.280" Title="1980 Civic hatchback clutch won't engage but gears are felt" Tags="|honda|civic|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23255" CreationDate="2015-12-11T16:46:06.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very hard to say what damage, if any, will have occurred.  All I can tell you is from my own personal experience.  I once went from the red line in 3rd gear with a wide open throttle to 4th at approximately 90mph on a 1983 Golf and accidentally selected 2nd (and managed to get the clutch up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instantaneous effect was that all of the dials gave readings I've never before seen and the car behaved as if an elephant had been dropped onto the front bumper.  I very quickly got back on the clutch but the damage was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that moment on, the engine would consume oil at an alarming rate.  Typically getting through a pint in around 50 to 60 miles of normal driving.  I hurriedly located a replacement engine and fitted it.  Other than the increased oil consumption, the original engine continued to perform as it should, didn't get excessively hot, didn't leak, didn't use water and didn't feel down on power.  I simply couldn't afford the increased engine oil bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you check all of your fluid levels now and continue to check them at very regular intervals.  You may be lucky and have no damage.  The best way to find out is to closely monitor the engines health and see what happens.  That is of course provided the engine doesn't develop any power loss or new noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T16:46:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T17:53:42.750" Score="5" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried jump start my bike with my car battery because the motorcycle battery was really low and would not start. I mistakenly touched both ends of the jump leads together and cause a big spark, suddenly the bike died and the ignition not coming on at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get it working again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13633" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T17:16:05.627" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T22:34:13.667" Title="Motorcycle Starting Issue - no longer starting after attempting to jump with a car battery" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|ignition|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23263" CreationDate="2015-12-11T17:53:48.337" Score="4" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you check if your spark plug threads are bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the most non-invasive method of checking this and also the most cheapest way to check this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T21:48:44.433" Title="How to check if bad spark plug threads are causing compression loss" Tags="|sparkplugs|stripped-thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23255" CreationDate="2015-12-11T18:06:25.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be primarily concerned with the i-VTEC cam related mechanisms.  I do not see that this engine is an interference engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were an interference engine and you floated your valves, you would have more than likely had valve to piston contact and that would have immediate effect on your motor as well as your driving experience, you would have been on the side of the road with a destroyed engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VTEC Diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLSBV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MLSBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The red arrow from left to right illistrates the pin insertion to engage the higher cam lobe profile.  It engages the mid rocker arm to do so.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Description: The red arrow from left to right illistrates the pin insertion to engage the higher cam lobe profile.  It engages the mid rocker arm to do so&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Concern&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary concern with what you described would be related to the engagement pin for the higher cam profile and the possibility of that shearing.  I do not know or have any prediction on how accurate my concern would be, this is simply based upon my previous experience of seeing engine failure, not my experience with this particular situation or valve train type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Concern - if the RPM's increased so rapidly that the engagement pin for the higher RPM did not have the time to insert itself into the secondary rocker and was sheared or the pin became rounded in the process of an attempted insertion.  You may not experience issues now but if it became rounded the issue could be aggravated over time and become worse.  If the pin was sheared then you would have some immediate effects such as reduced power at higher RPM's because the higher cam lobe is not getting engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, if it were sheared you would probably hear some noise coming from the top end as your would have some failed components floating about...but any lack of noise is not a guarantee that a failed event did or did not occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly I am not claiming that any damaged occurred.  I have over revved MANY engines without any effect.  As well, I have over revved a motorcycle engine and completely destroyed it as well.  In my experience, it typically seems to be a binary experience.  The engine is destroyed or it is not.  I haven't experienced a grey areas when it comes to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other Areas&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rings - There are many vehicles that have limits that are considerably higher than the RPM your engine just spun up to.  The chances of rings becoming damaged in their landings IMO is very small.  If you did experience issue where there was damage you would probably experience hard starting/rough idle issues along with blowing oil smoke during operation of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gears - The gears on your transmission are balanced by default and locked into place.  Chance of damage in this scenario is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting Rods - There are possibilities here.  If you did experience an issue you would experience, at the least, a very rough idle as the stroke for some pistons would be different, at least in regards to max piston height in the bore resulting in a different compression ratio on that cylinder.  Results would be rough idle at the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank journals - Very real possibility that forces your experienced overwhelmed the hydrodynamic lubrication.  If you had metal to metal contact on your plain bearing to your journal your would have reduced lubrication and possibly knocking from the big end connecting rod ID (inside diameter) to the crank OD (outside diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you on this.  Hopefully everything is OK!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T22:52:24.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16362" CreationDate="2015-12-11T19:57:38.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the water came out almost instantly it sounds like it could be a radiator hose or heater hose...I'm thinking heater hose since you mentioned it was all over your windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:57:38.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13006" CreationDate="2015-12-11T20:32:32.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those gas lines really shouldn't be a problem. Unless you are hitting them right on with MAPP Gas you won't have a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did to remove my exhaust bolts was run the car until it warms up, then hit the bolt with some MAPP Gas from a torch, and hammered a socket that was 1mm smaller than the size of the bolt on it. Came off no problem after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:32:32.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23259" CreationDate="2015-12-11T20:36:12.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove your spark plug wire primary leads.  Spray the area around the spark plug with soapy water. Crank or run the engine and see if bubbles are formed. Perform this action with the engine cold and only run it for a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what car make model year you have. If the plugs are exposed on the sides of the heads the soapy water shouldn't cause any problems. If the plugs are recessed into the tops of the heads then be sure to blow the water out before removing the plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T21:48:44.433" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T21:48:44.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16673" CreationDate="2015-12-11T20:40:27.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your e-brake drum shoes. They are located on the inside of the rear wheels. If the drum is rusted or the shoe (pad) is scraping it would make a scraping noise such as the one you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:40:27.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23254" CreationDate="2015-12-11T20:48:55.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ohio unlike other states a bill of sale is not required. The car should have a title and that title is on file at the title bureau. You will fill the title out and take it to a notary to get signed. Exchange the title and car for the money. The new owner will take the title to the title bureau and pay the sales tax on the price filled out on the title to get a new title with their name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bill of sale you have listed seems to be a generic one. I would put private party under seller registration number field. The bill of sale is most likely for use with dealers or resellers that posses such a number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:48:55.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T20:53:35.387" Score="3" ViewCount="17461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a brand new Dodge Ram 1500 2015 model. The car is shaking at low speed 80km/hr (50 mph) while the steering wheel is not shaking. I can feel the vibration in the seats, however the vibration stops at higher speed 100km/h (60 mph ) or higher. The dealer says that its a problem in balancing and he can change the tires also and re-balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be any other problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise as I know if its a tire problem it should increase while acceleration not fading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13637" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T01:20:33.163" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T09:02:22.587" Title="My brand new car is shaking while steering wheel is not" Tags="|tires|wheels|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T21:45:01.937" Score="3" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Saab 9-5. The car looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z1bwR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z1bwR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saab 9-5 2003&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to carry a small-ish bicycle now on regular occasions but unfortunately it cannot fit inside the car unless I take off one of the wheels.  As you can see the car has no roof rack or bars and it's not clear to me what you could attach to the back of the car to be able to carry a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a cheap and effective way to fit the car to make it easy to carry a bicycle? I don't really know the first thing about this so please spell out exactly what I would need to buy if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T21:59:17.180" Title="Carrying a bicylce on a Saab 9-5" Tags="|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23267" CreationDate="2015-12-11T21:59:17.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trunk mount bicycle racks are the cheapest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You open your trunk and part of the device sits in there.  When you close your trunk it's 'mounted'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look like this.  They are -$40 on ebay.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6bHd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6bHd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T21:59:17.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:12:19.950" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple Questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find where the fuel level senor function-slosh is located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I possibly repair it on a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5SL?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13639" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:18:23.403" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T02:19:45.320" Title="2002 Nissin Altima 2.5SL - repair/replace a fuel level sensor function-slosh" Tags="|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23270" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:29:40.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This condition can be experienced due to a multitude of possible issues from ECU, wiring harness, fuse panel, signal generator, spark plug wires, points, condenser, igniter box, spark plug cap or any number of related ignition components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:03:38.350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:03:38.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23271" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:29:40.317" Score="0" Body="A condition where one or more engine cylinders experiences lack of combustion or mistimed combustion through detonation" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:11:55.657" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:11:55.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23272" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:30:28.523" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:30:28.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:30:28.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23273" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:30:28.523" Score="0" Body="A condition where the air fuel ratio is not optimal and the engine is not receiving enough fuel from the fuel system" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:04:19.287" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:04:19.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23274" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:31:09.523" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:31:09.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:31:09.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23275" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:31:09.523" Score="0" Body="A condition where the air fuel ratio is not optimal and the engine is receiving too much fuel from the fuel system" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T15:58:56.313" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T15:58:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23276" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:32:31.517" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:32:31.517" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:32:31.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23277" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:32:31.517" Score="0" Body="The act of applying brakes to reduce a motor vehicles speed." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:02:24.963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:02:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23278" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:33:30.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:33:30.263" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:33:30.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23279" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:33:30.263" Score="0" Body="A two wheeled motorized vehicle with a cylinder volume less than 50cc" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:14:57.830" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:14:57.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23280" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:37:00.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:37:00.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:37:00.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23281" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:37:00.877" Score="0" Body="Energy that transfers itself between a system and its surroundings.  Heat is measured in joules." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T15:59:32.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T15:59:32.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23282" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:37:52.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:37:52.983" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:37:52.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23283" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:37:52.983" Score="0" Body="A model of sedan that is produced by Chrysler Motor Company" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:02:06.047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:02:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23284" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:38:28.560" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:38:28.560" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:38:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23285" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:38:28.560" Score="0" Body="The act of increasing speed over time." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:14:44.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:14:44.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23286" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:39:51.863" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:39:51.863" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:39:51.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23287" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:39:51.863" Score="0" Body="A device that captures images within the visible light spectrum.  " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:15:18.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:15:18.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23288" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:40:36.493" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:40:36.493" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:40:36.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23289" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:40:36.493" Score="0" Body="A petrochemical based fluid used to clean carburetors " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:13:34.827" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:13:34.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23290" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:45:42.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:45:42.810" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:45:42.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23291" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:45:42.810" Score="0" Body="A device used in vehicles to transfer energy from an electric or internal combustion engine from the power unit to the transmission. Specifically the clutch plate is the part of the clutch assembly which clamps the friction disk to the flywheel." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:12:13.837" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T23:12:13.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23292" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:48:37.547" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:48:37.547" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:48:37.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23293" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:48:37.547" Score="0" Body="A motorcycle manufacturing company based in South Africa" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:12:30.463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:12:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23294" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:49:51.060" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:49:51.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:49:51.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23295" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:49:51.060" Score="0" Body="The arbitrary maximum speed in rotations per minute (RPM) of an electric or internal combustion engine which is set by the manufacturer during engine development." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T00:45:23.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T00:45:23.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23296" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:51:26.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image showing an automotive windshield&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vflZU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vflZU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:40:31.073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:40:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23297" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:51:26.417" Score="0" Body="A transparent protective shield made of glass and polymers that is mounted in front of the driver on a motor vehicle" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:14:38.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:14:38.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23298" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:57:46.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T22:57:46.207" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T22:57:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23299" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T22:57:46.207" Score="0" Body="A division of General Motors which produces trucks, buses, vans, and other large vehicles." OwnerUserId="22022" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T12:52:49.873" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T12:52:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23300" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-11T23:36:49.533" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T23:36:49.533" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T23:36:49.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23301" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-11T23:36:49.533" Score="0" Body="Rear Wheel Drive - A final drive configuration where only the rear wheels of the vehicle transfer power to a road surface in order to drive the vehicle forward or backward." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T03:03:05.630" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:03:05.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23266" CreationDate="2015-12-12T01:30:59.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't have to continue vibrating. It can get to a point where the vibrations stop for a period of time, then start again at higher speeds. I would bet you just haven't gotten to the speed where it starts again (not that I'm suggesting you try to go that speed). It's just like at lower speeds you don't feel a wobble, because it hasn't gotten to the point where it occurs. It happens in cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the dealership fix the issue and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T01:30:59.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23255" CreationDate="2015-12-12T02:17:14.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car continued to drive normally no damage occurred. Start it up right now with the hood open (it helps to hear noises you would normally would not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What  if the cars feels weird?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage to the engine is immediately obvious at startup. A common type of damage are bent valves. Which occur when the valves are not closed fast enough and they hit the pistons. Your engine is an interference engine. That means there is little tolerance between the valves and pistons. In simple words, by over-revving it you might have caused the valves and pistons to hit. This will make the engine instantly develop one or more of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A misfire at idle and/or the rev range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoke coming out of the tailpipe due to oil sneaking into the combustion chamber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to start due to the bent valves making the engine hard to turn over. This will make the starter sound strange.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your check engine light will come on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these symptoms require a trip to the mechanic on a tow truck. Don't drive it there. More damage could occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you dont notice anything like that?&#xA;Move on and thank the car gods you did not bent a valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T02:17:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23269" CreationDate="2015-12-12T02:19:45.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The level sensor is in the gas tank. Its part of the fuel pump assembly.&#xA;Repairing it requires you to lower the fuel tank, remove the assembly, and install a new assembly altogether. Won't be easy or cheap. Save your back and take it to a mechanic. Have them check the dash gauge before replacing the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T02:19:45.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23266" CreationDate="2015-12-12T02:23:44.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, sounds like a wheel balancing problem. The reason you might not feel it is that pick up trucks have what is a called a dead center in the steering. The dead center is a point where steering the wheel does not steer the tires. Let the dealer fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T02:23:44.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23255" CreationDate="2015-12-12T03:09:06.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamental premise of an internal combustion engine is &quot;pressure&quot;. The event described will have created pressures within the engine, far beyond anything it was ever designed to contain. The impacts on the mechanicals (moving parts) are secondary. Therefore the reliability factor of the engine is now zero. A catastrophic failure can be anticipated anytime. A threat to your personal safety exists anytime you drive the car. I have 34 years of automotive maintenance experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:09:06.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17706" CreationDate="2015-12-12T03:15:21.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a similar issue many times in the past where the rim is fine but the sprocket is of poor quality and actually not 'flat'.  By flat I mean, if you lay it on it's side on a flat surface there will be a gap to the flat surface between the sprocket and the surface, of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To validate if you are having this issue; remove the sprocket, place on a flat surface and see if you can get a feeler gauge of a particular thickness between the sprocket and the flat surface, if you can't and have a gap then obviously the sprocket is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was of some assistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T19:34:19.637" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T19:34:19.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16470" CreationDate="2015-12-12T03:25:32.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the comments above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP Solved the Issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP discovered that this was a battery related issue and did not put the battery on a trickle charger of the winter idle period.  As a result the battery completely drained and was unable to be recharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP did not respond to putting in the answer as a result I have populated it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:25:32.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8656" CreationDate="2015-12-12T03:35:00.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue described is very common and one that I too have experience with. Luckily the solution is very simple and costs around ten dollars. An electric wire is simply a conduit, just as a pipe that carries a fluid. If the pipe is clogged, the fluid won't flow. On your car, the negative battery cable is corroded somewhere inside the insulation. Electricity is not returning to the battery from the alternator, since the circuit won't complete. Replace the negative battery cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T03:35:00.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23311" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:06:43.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a modern Yamaha logo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kom0K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kom0K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:24:48.520" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:24:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23312" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:06:43.273" Score="0" Body="A Japanese manufacturer of motor vehicles, boat motor, snow vehicles and small engine driven devices" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="40441" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T16:40:36.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T16:40:36.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23313" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:18:46.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Colloquial term for 'gasoline', a liquid petrochemical refined from crude oil and used in internal combustion engines as fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T00:43:32.510" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T00:43:32.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23314" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:18:46.823" Score="0" Body="Colloquial term for 'gasoline', a liquid petrochemical refined from crude oil and used in internal combustion engines as fuel." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T00:43:32.510" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T00:43:32.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23315" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:19:38.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T05:19:38.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T05:19:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23316" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-12T05:19:38.280" Score="0" Body="The act of operating a vehicle." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T16:09:03.023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:09:03.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T16:03:41.777" Score="0" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2014 Dodge Avenger purchased in August 2015. I am leasing this car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First problem is my brakes. Just got them placed on 2 weeks ago. The next day they were grinding and squeaking very loud. Took it back to the shop they told me it was brake dust. Drove home and same problem. Now I just got the back brakes placed on as well and the same thing. This time a different shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one can tell me what’s the problem and I’m so afraid my brakes are going lock up and go out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this situation to me please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13649" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T06:04:47.913" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T06:04:47.913" Title="2014 dodge avenger - Brake Squealing and Grinding Sounds, Front and Rear" Tags="|brakes|noise|dodge|avenger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15819" CreationDate="2015-12-12T16:53:34.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up ordering the bearings separately and finding a friend who was the lead technician at a large auto shop. I had him replace my brakes, calipers and CV axles that day and it took him only a few minutes to press out the old bearings and press in the new. A professional mechanic knows an easy way to access that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T03:31:29.197" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T03:31:29.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2015-12-12T18:07:03.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Position your vehicle to aim your headlights against a wall so you can see where the headlights are pointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There or torx screws located above each headlight inside the engine compartment as well as the sides.  The torx size is a #15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the screws in and out to adjust each headlamp independently of the other until they are positioned properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0eYdq.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0eYdq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T18:22:54.253" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T18:22:54.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21752" CreationDate="2015-12-12T18:44:55.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cars with automatic transmission, if not all, it is normal to hear a &quot;clicking&quot; sound from underneath the gear selector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressing the brake pedal activates the brake switch, which disengages the park lock solenoid to allow the selector to move out of P. The &quot;click&quot; sound is emitted when the parking lock is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T18:44:55.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2808" CreationDate="2015-12-12T19:08:17.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brake Pan particle theory is true but one other thing with the screeching sound:  It could be that the Brake Pan (round pan behind the rotor) could have been bent at some time either by hand or by a stick or debris in the road that got kicked up and possibly hit your Brake Pan and closing it in closer to your rotor thus creating a metal on metal sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T19:08:17.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9135" CreationDate="2015-12-12T19:28:34.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned the vehicle was 14 years old (2002).  In the rear Brake area: It sounds like all you need is a good parts cleaning and anti-seise application to the star wheel and other moving parts in the area.  Rust &amp;amp; Pad Powder is taking over and needs to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T19:28:34.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22579" CreationDate="2015-12-12T20:20:46.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The special tool you are requesting appears to be an allen drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be procured online by doing a google search for &quot;allen drive socket&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7kXW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7kXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T20:20:46.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23227" CreationDate="2015-12-12T21:15:03.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about an antifreeze product that holds both certs and is Perkins certified?&#xA;Zerex G-05.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_G-05_AFC_Technical_Bulletin.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_G-05_AFC_Technical_Bulletin.pdf&lt;/a&gt;.   We use it in many older engines were the older product is no longer made but the newer spec is not appropriate. It has not caused compatibility issues. It is a nitrated product which helps with cylinder liner cavitation, the toughest issue with diesels and coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head gaskets have not been the primary problem with the new spec organic acid coolants, it has been damage to plastic parts in cooling systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more info contact the Zerex help desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T21:15:03.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T22:07:47.420" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have replaced the alternator and battery but still have problem with starting. It takes a jump and starts every time but after you park and come back, it won't start again. I has been to the shop three times (2 different ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to Firestone where they say it's a frayed negative battery cable, which is too short to fix and needs to be replaced. They won't do it, they say to take it to a dealer and that it's expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is involved with the job? Are there specialized tools required to do it right, or is it something that a home mechanic might consider taking on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13650" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T00:13:13.437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T13:22:06.640" Title="2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - What is Involved With Replacing the Negative Battery Cable?" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|grand-cherokee|battery-cable|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23319" CreationDate="2015-12-12T22:37:27.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake squealing is a complex problem and the fastest and least frustrating way to solve it is to replace the pads and rotors at the same time and use quality pads and rotors.  Having the rotors resurfaced is an alternative to replacing them with new ones and might be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T22:37:27.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22658" CreationDate="2015-12-12T22:59:01.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be interchange between the 2WD truck version and the Camaro version, but the case is physically different when you look at the 4WD truck version. Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-transmissions/myd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;there are only two cars&lt;/a&gt; which use the 6L90: Camaro ZL1; Cadillac CTS-V. Every other application is in a truck/van of some sort. You won't just find them laying around out of a car is what I'm getting at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fCbFd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fCbFd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T22:59:01.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23346" CreationDate="2015-12-13T00:07:21.003" Score="6" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep things short I poured 200ml of concentrated genuine ford super plus premium antifreeze (Ethylene glycol based) within a bowl. Then added 200ml of water to dilute the solution to a 50/50 mixture. It states on the bottle when mixed 50/50 with water the antifreeze should protect to -37 degree's Celsius however when tested with a floating balls tester it shows that the solution would only protect up to -23 degrees. To investigate further I purchased two more hydrometer (different manufacturers) which tested the solution at -23 same as the first hydrometer. I don’t believe that three hydrometer from different manufacturers are going to lie to me so I’m puzzled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research I found that -37 is the protection level that a 50/50 mixture should provide this is why I am confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what should I do? Should I add more antifreeze increasing the strength to -37 or should I keep the solution at -23 when using within my car?  If there is anyone that can give information to why this may be I would be more than grateful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="13651" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T00:14:17.130" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T07:10:34.020" Title="Why is antifreeze mixture not as stated?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|radiator|cooling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23330" CreationDate="2015-12-13T00:42:16.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to look at is, did you actually mix like amounts to come to a true 50/50 solution? As with any scientific study, you need to make sure your results are repeatable. You bought two other antifreeze testers (hydrometers) to ensure your measuring device was good, but what you didn't do is try to make the mixture again (at least you didn't say you did). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could also do is try a different type of antifreeze tester. There is a thing called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewing.org/Brix-Refractometer-w-ATC-Automatic-Temperature-Control-_p_1776.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;refractometer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which uses light through a prism to identify how the solution works out. This is far more accurate than the bouncing balls, though is surly more expensive. This will give you a far more accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The above was just things you need to think about in your testing to ensure accuracy of your tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your main question, yes, add a bit more antifreeze to bring it up to snuff, especially if you live in an environment which requires the extra protection. In severe climates, a mixture of 70/30 antifreeze to water is quite normal, so there should be no issue going to this level of antifreeze in your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T00:42:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-13T01:45:36.190" Score="2" ViewCount="6958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past 5 days, I detected a really bad foul odor inside my 2002 Toyota Camry.  It is worst when the car sits overnight, or for any length of time. As soon as I open the car door, &quot;the smell like something is dead odor&quot; hits me in the face like a ton of bricks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed, however, that when I turn on the car's heater, this seems to help the odor go away, but only temporarily, that is as long as the heater is on. Although I haven't driven the car much over the past few days, just to and from local store ..., I do plan on having the filter changed soon, and then look at the probability of mold growth being the problem as suggested by some online answers. (How do I do that?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the interior of the car and underneath the vehicle; sprayed Lysol inside car, etc.  I don't know what else to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13653" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:21:45.690" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:21:45.690" Title="A foul odor inside vehicle, like something is dead inside vehicle (Toyota Camry 2002), especially when car is not running" Tags="|toyota|ac|camry|hvac|smell|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-29T00:12:19.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23332" CreationDate="2015-12-13T02:04:13.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it truly is a &quot;dead&quot; smell, it could very well be something &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; crawl up into your car and die. Since you are smelling it over and over again, I'd suggest it wasn't something small like a mouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to tell for sure is to pull your car apart. This is going to be a bit of work, but if you want to find the smell, it's about the only thing I can think of. Since the heater being on eliminates the smell, I would put money on it being on the inside of your car and not inside your HVAC system. Usually when that happens, whether mildew or what have you, the smell will get worse with HVAC usage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my point of view, you'll need to take all of your seats out, one-by-one. Then inspect the seats to ensure nothing is in/on/under them. Once you pull the seats out, leave them out and see if the smell comes back. What you are doing in this process is eliminating where the source of the smell might be. Luckily, most seats are fairly easy to pull out. The front seats usually have four bolts/nuts which need to come loose, then an electrical attachment (disconnect the plug). The back seats may be a little more difficult, but I'll bet this is where you'll find the smell emanating from. There are different ways back seats are held in, but usually you can pull the bottoms from the back (by the seat back) and they will come out. It's more of an interference fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you don't drive the car for several days, which implies to me this is not your only source of transportation. It's the only reason I'm suggesting you go this route. You could take it to someone (a body shop) and have them do the extraction. They will easily know how to pull the pieces apart quickly and without damaging anything. They'll also know how to get it back together properly. I could not even begin to tell you how much this might cost, but I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap. Expect to pay for a full days (eight hours) worth of labor at the going rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best I have for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T02:04:13.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2015-12-13T08:03:24.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found before you go and get ready to change your oil an old Timer showed me this trick , Get a Heavy Speaker Magnet ..About all cars not all have a Magnet pad built in the bottom of oil pan or you can buy a Service Plug to catch all fine Segment in oil any way about 3 days or longer take the round Magnet place over the fill plug or near it don't worry about it falling off be sure it's a very strong one .&#xA;Then when your ready to remove the plug and Drain the oil you will be surprise to what will come out .&#xA;Hope this helps anyone to try your Car will like that the old fine shavings are now removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13654" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T08:03:24.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23347" CreationDate="2015-12-13T08:13:44.980" Score="4" ViewCount="85727" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Vitz 2007 idles roughly when AC is on. If AC is turned off, the idle becomes much smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This vibration is more visible if I suddenly stop in traffic. As soon as I stop, several rough vibrations occur and then it becomes smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the vehicle serviced: cleaned the fuel filter, replaced Air and AC filters, replaced engine oil. But the problem hasn't got resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for ths?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T13:37:33.413" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T21:49:54.027" Title="Rough idle when AC is on" Tags="|toyota|ac|rough-idle|vitz|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4754" CreationDate="2015-12-13T10:48:12.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;S&quot; can be used for snow and as well as steep hill/ slope. &quot;B&quot; is for Braking. And it is used for going down steep slope/ hill.  And both positions work irrespective of 2WD or 4WD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T10:48:12.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23332" CreationDate="2015-12-13T11:08:24.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be hard to pinpoint the source of smell if it fills the entire space inside the passenger shell.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you rip your car apart try leaving the doors and windows open to disperse most of the foul odor.  Would also help is you blow the air from one side using an electric fan. Best if done outdoors, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When most of the smell is gone it will be easier to isolate the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13585" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T11:08:24.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2015-12-13T19:08:10.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing which vehicle this is for it will be difficult to provide specific help for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, based on the description, there is a good chance the that the cable which attaches the interior door handle to the door lock actuator has not been reattached properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:08:10.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9675" CreationDate="2015-12-13T19:34:23.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inability to communicate with the ECU could be explained by the lack of power from the battery. This could be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a flat battery (ruled out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a break in the wiring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high voltage drop across the positive wire (assuming the ECU is negative-grounded)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:34:23.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2015-12-13T19:36:51.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP resolved this issue as per his &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9764/citroen-c2-vts-1-6l-2007-not-starting-sometimes-clicking-and-other-times-not#comment12052_9764&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking it to an auto electrician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the motor I had removed was the fuel pump and not the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The auto electrician removed the starter motor and found that there was large big up of carbon in around the comm of the motor. Replaced its brushes and cleaned it out. The starter motor was re-installed and the car now starts fine. All alarms/faults have cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: Starter motor needed to be re-conditioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:36:51.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9930" CreationDate="2015-12-13T19:43:53.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bought the car and have the window sticker, all of the options will be listed on the sticker. If you don't have your window sticker anymore (usually only stupidly anal people like me would keep it), take your VIN down to your Hyundai dealership and ask them to see what options came on it. They should store all of that stuff in their databases (most manufacturers do this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T19:43:53.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23345" CreationDate="2015-12-13T20:04:21.520" Score="4" ViewCount="2983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I constantly measure 15 ppm of CO inside my car after a long commute (~1 hour of continuous driving, but the overall trip can take from 1.5 to 2 hours depending on my destinations before heading home). 15 ppm is the typical reading. Sometimes it's a little less (12), one time it reached 20, but 15 seems to be the typical measurement. I always leave the windows closed and set the AC to circulate the air inside (no intake from outside). My question is: is this normal for a long commute on busy roads, or should the value be lower and I may have a leak/problem with isolation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13662" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:13:41.887" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:22:36.067" Title="15 ppm of CO levels inside car" Tags="|ac|exhaust|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20839" CreationDate="2015-12-13T20:08:53.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this TVS service training presentation&lt;a href=&quot;http://nexgenbikes.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Apache_RTR_160_manual.pdf?2fb5c5&quot;&gt;TVS service training presentation&lt;/a&gt; they indicate using 4T motor oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4T is now the defacto name for motorcycle oil with many manufacturers (Mobile 1, Castrol, etc.).  4T is typically 10w40 with longer polymer chains to deal with the shearing of the transmission.  Since the gears of the transmission are lubricated with the engine oil, unlike cars, the gears can shear the molecules and reduced the effectiveness of oil more rapidly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 4T Motorcycle Engine Oil, 10w40 is what the manufacturer recommends.  TVS also have their own 'braned' oil that they use in their dealerships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T20:08:53.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23343" CreationDate="2015-12-13T20:24:18.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7921891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This NIH (National Institutes of Health) Study&lt;/a&gt; monitoring CO inside the cabin of a vehicle during commutes over an extended period has some pretty interesting data. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the study &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the mean CO concentration was 9.8 ppm, with a standard deviation of 5.8 ppm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another study &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bvsde.paho.org/bvsacd/cd51/monoxide/cap04.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is another study&lt;/a&gt; that reflects older data ('80's and '90's) sampled from several metro areas that you may be familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered some additional studies that would show cars idling on warmup with the vent sent to 'fresh air' in the winter where the CO levels went as high as 8,000 ppm!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that are within normal operation limits or that your exposure to CO does not seem out of the normal variance.  It would be interesting to measure the CO with fresh air on driving in the country far from normal metropolitan contaminants.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:22:36.067" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:22:36.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23330" CreationDate="2015-12-13T21:53:01.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference you observe is quite notable, so I wondered how reliable it is to just measure the density (which is what your hydrometer does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msds.ford.com/documents/151427%20O_GBEN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt; of your Ford antifreeze, the density is 1.10kg/l, while pure ethylen glycol has 1.10kg/l. Glysantin is another brand for antifreeze and states 1.122-1.125kg/l for its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glysantin.de/fileadmin/Files/Downloads/Technical_DS/technisches_datenblatt_g48_deu.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;G48&lt;/a&gt; (sorry, german)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This differences aren't big, are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water has a density of 0.998203 kg/l (at 20°C, as all values above), so one could approximate the density of any mixture by a linear function:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmOGB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmOGB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, a 50% mixture from Ford Super Plus Premium has a density of 1.047kg/l. The same density has a 40.7% Glysantin G48 and a 45.4% Ethylan Glycol mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glysantin.de/anwendung.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glysantin's website&lt;/a&gt;, a 1:1.5 mixture (i.e. 40% antifreeze) protects down to -27°C instead of -37°C, which is a vast difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pure ethylen glycol, I found this chart (in °F):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYrf1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYrf1.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/freeze_points.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.eetcorp.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which also shows a serve reduction for lower concentrations of antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, slight differences in density of the andifreeze will result in very different temperatures displayed on a hydrometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This still does not explain your reading of -23°C, but the linear function is just an approximation, temperature changes density, too, and who knows what other effects there are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you can thrust a 50% mixture, but can increase it to 60%, as Paulser2 already said. However, pure water has the best cooling capability, and the more antifreeze you add, the worse it gets. Too much antifreeze, and you may get a heat problem in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T21:53:01.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23335" CreationDate="2015-12-13T23:09:35.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms are consistent with deposits in the throttle body. There are other potential causes. These deposits accrue in the intake manifold over time. They build faster with short trips and low quality fuels. Inspection and cleaning of the throttle body would be first thing to look at for this symptom. This engine is equipped with a computer controlled throttle system. It is designed to adjust its opening to keep the idle speed close to 700 rpm regardless of engine load. If to much dirt collects around the throttle blade the system can get beyond the limits of the systems ability to adjust idle speed with the extra load of the air conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean the throttle use a soft cleaning cloth soaked in a solvent. Open the throttle blade carefully. Clean the throttle blade and the surrounding bore. Do not scrub, let the solvent do the work, no scratches are allowed on the polished bore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning start the engine and let it idle for at least 20 minutes while the system learns it's new throttle position. This vehicle should relearn on its own. It may need to be revved up and put in gear several times during the learing time.  Note that other designs require tools and procedures to perform the throttle system relearn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cautions; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These geared blades are very strong and can damage body parts if they activate during cleaning, Make sure the vehicle key is away from the vehicle. Open them slowly and carefully. We use shotgun bore cleaning swabs so we do not have to insert fingers into the blade area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not spray solvents into the bore and intake, just soak the cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not use metal tools for cleaning, it is easy to cause damage and these units are expensive.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If indicated, have cleaning done by an experienced technician if at all unsure since it is possible to get injured or damage a very expensive part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:09:35.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23256" CreationDate="2015-12-13T23:37:43.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This clutch is very basic, it is cable activated, it has a conventional push type throwout bearing. It has no inspection cover for viewing the clutch disk thickness.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The transmission is lubricated with regular engine oil; its condition would not effect clutch engagement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most common causes of lack of engagement are a broken actuator cable and worn clutch disk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common failure of this transmission is the front mainshaft bearing. This causes lots of noise but does not affect the clutch. Clutch replacement is considered simple by experienced technicians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:37:43.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23080" CreationDate="2015-12-14T01:28:18.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Two sources of information on push/pull rod suspensions used for this answer -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/pushrod_pullrod.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formula1-Dictionary.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zwYybcpBeZI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Push-rod&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/pkcWMl9dpcg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pull-rod&lt;/a&gt; suspension videos from Engineering Explained.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anhCb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anhCb.png&quot; alt=&quot;From Formula1-Dictionary.net website with annotations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A - Lower Control Arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B - Upper Control Arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C - Pull Rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D - Push Rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will first start out by saying the push-rod and pull-rod suspensions are basically the same suspension system, only one is flipped upside down from the other. In both suspensions, there is an upper and lower control arm. Each control arm will have a pivot point towards the inside of the vehicle. This allows for the arms to go up and down at the outside, which allows the wheels/tires/hubs to go up/down as needed. At the outside of the control arms will be ball joints which allows the wheels/tires/hubs to articulate to the left or right allowing the vehicle to turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the push or pull rods on each. These are the reasons for the names. The &lt;em&gt;push-rod&lt;/em&gt; will be under compression, while the &lt;em&gt;pull-rod&lt;/em&gt; will be under tension. These bars are what supports the vehicle on the suspension by transferring the weight to the rocker arms, which are splinted to Torsion bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwK0b.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwK0b.png&quot; alt=&quot;From Formula1-Dictionary.net website with annotations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above image, the push rod connects to the rockers. The rockers are splintered to the Torsion bars. This also utilizes the Torsion bar as pivot point for the rockers. The dampers act like shock absorbers, quieting the suspension when subjected to heavy jolts. The antiroll bar linkages provide a means by which to help the vehicle during hard cornering to stay level and stuck to the track. The pull system would be setup pretty much the same way, but upside down of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; In the above image, the antiroll bar linkages would not be attached as shown. If they were, it would never work because the center only acts as a pivot and would break (or be damaged) if both sides were hit at the same time (think of a speed bump). Something would have to give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice the design of the pull-rod suspension, the pull rod goes from the bottom of the vehicle to the upper control arm. On the push-rod suspension, the rod is located high in the vehicle and attaches to the lower control arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inherently, the working parts of the pull-rod suspension can be placed lower in the vehicle, which equates to a lower center of gravity. The problem with this is it makes it harder to get to for tuning or if in need of repair. It is also harder to implement in the rear of the car where you have to deal with the transaxle. Because the pull-rod is in tension under normal condition, it can be made thinner than can a push-rod. The trade-off is that the upper control arm needs to be beefed up to support the load, which is now seeing double duty, so it's about a wash between the two as far as weight savings goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which one works better, the effectiveness of each is about the same. Each has their own drawbacks when considering aerodynamics. Each rod type suffers from both compression and tension, though at different times. What it comes down to is the picking which one works best for the design of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T01:28:18.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-12-14T02:47:13.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the head gasket head just clean  check head face clearness and check valves sites rocker's valve seals make a new car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13666" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T02:47:13.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9672" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:00:10.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This repair requires all the skills of a vehicle exterior painter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have had limited success with the DIY repair kits that are available for interior plastic repair. They are OK for repairs to older used cars that we prep for sale. However the texture and color match is off better than 75% of the time.  When it has to look original we hire a local mobile service that does an excellent job. Ask for a referral at a local body repair business or a car dealer that sells expensive makes. It takes an artist with skill and practice to do this well. Excellent color match and airbrush skills are needed, mine are just OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process involves a flexible filler for holes and low spots that is then textured with non-stick texture patches to match the surrounding area. Then the area is painted with a flexible paint compatible with plastics and vinyl. This usually involves painting the whole panel because of wear and existing color variations. Clean the area with a plastic paint prep product. Test the paint on the back of a panel to ensure that the paint used will stick and flow on the particular plastic involved. The painting is best done with an airbrush as it atomizes the paint better for a smooth orange peel free surface that does not interfere with the existing texture. It also allows fine edge control in areas where the whole panel is not being painted. No clearcoat is used in this process. Which is why it wears off faster than exterior finishes. It's usually much less than new panels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T02:50:13.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T02:50:13.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23258" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:05:05.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the circuit that contains your starter relay there is a fuse, typically it is a 30amp fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image a Yamaha R1 starter relay fuse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaIRX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OaIRX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your model of motorcycle you will need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Discover the location of your relay fuse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove a plastic cover for the relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, remove a plastic cover for the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove and Replace old fuse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start your bike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very high percentage that your motorcycle is just fine and that this is the issue.  Nothing to panic about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T23:54:26.133" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:54:26.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23353" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:06:16.640" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T03:06:16.640" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T03:06:16.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23354" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:06:16.640" Score="0" Body="An Indian motorcycle manufacturer" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:21:53.317" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:21:53.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23355" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:07:00.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T03:07:00.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T03:07:00.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23356" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:07:00.480" Score="0" Body="A model of sedan or coupe manufactured by Infiniti Motor Company" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:19:39.783" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:19:39.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23357" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:08:18.303" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T03:08:18.303" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T03:08:18.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23358" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:08:18.303" Score="0" Body="A transmission that shifts in the order of the gear ratios ratios from low to high and high to low." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:21:12.653" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:21:12.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23359" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:12:45.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ducati was founded in 1926 by Antonio, Adriano, Bruno and Marcello Cavalieri Ducati. It's headquarters are located in Bologna, Italy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17743" LastEditorUserId="17743" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T09:13:29.903" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T09:13:29.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23360" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:12:45.897" Score="0" Body="An Italian motorcycle manufacturer owned by Audi - and it's parent company Lamborghini. " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="17743" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T07:57:45.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T07:57:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23368" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:44:47.180" Score="6" ViewCount="41971" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get gas from a Wal-Mart that has a gas station you can pay extra for fuel additives. $14.99 for a &quot;fuel system service&quot;, which is supposed to offer &quot;complete fuel system cleaner&quot;, $2.99 for &quot;better mileage&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is...  is it a good idea to purchase these additives? Will it reduce the maintenance my vehicle needs, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T22:56:14.310" Title="additech fuel additives - good idea or not?" Tags="|fuel-system|maintenance|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23363" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:55:07.393" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T03:55:07.393" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T03:55:07.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23364" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T03:55:07.393" Score="0" Body="A container within a vehicle that stores fuel for a vehicle with an internal combustion engine." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:21:06.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:21:06.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23365" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T04:00:11.017" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:00:11.017" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:00:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23366" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T04:00:11.017" Score="0" Body="A model of car manufactured by Toyota" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:21:33.823" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:21:33.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23454" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:03:32.370" Score="11" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on a 1999 Buick Century Custom that had rusted brake lines. I get strange pedal feel that I will attempt to describe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From 0% to about 15% depression, there is resistance and most braking&#xA;force is generated&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From about 15% to about 70% depression, there is less resistance and&#xA;no braking force is generated&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From about 70% onwards, brakes feel normal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for insight into the cause as well as a solution. On this car, the two rear lines each have a floating portioning valve (Dorman 905-952). This car has ABS, front discs and rear drums. Recently I changed all brake lines and replaced one portioning valve (it had been deleted by the previous owner). I have bled twice (RR, RL, FR, FL). When I bled, it was not level (sitting on a jack with tires off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked for leaks on the new lines, no leaks found. The wheel cylinders don't leak. I want to also say, the car seems to stop just fine every time (just requires a lot of travel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7882" LastEditorUserId="7882" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T02:33:56.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T02:33:56.473" Title="Brake pedal has &quot;dead zone&quot; in the middle of travel" Tags="|brakes|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2015-12-14T05:28:16.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuels with additives that have passed independent testing are listed here  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers&quot;&gt;www.toptiergas.com/retailers&lt;/a&gt;. I do not see WalMart on that list. The most tested and accepted fuel additive among experienced technicians is Chevrons' Techron product. Fuel additives can have an affect fuel mileage and engine life; how much will be the subject of opinion as there are many variables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments on &lt;em&gt;Additech&lt;/em&gt;, the additive that Walmarts website lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One assumes a company the size of Walmart would have thoroughly tested the product. The claims made are significant but, except for the mileage improvement, would be challenging to prove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Claims and comment:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Cleaning combustion chamber, intake valves and fuel injectors thus reducing engine knock tendencies: This is an excellent goal. It could improve mileage if the engine has enough deposits to cause the engine controller to have to correct for knock. Top Tier approval would ensure this claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Friction reduction modifier: The claim here is that the product contains an ingredient that reduces piston ring friction and gets into the engine oil and then reduces friction throughout the engine. Proof is required for this. Others have made this claim and been proven wrong over the years. Modern engine oils are excellent stand alone products not in need of additives. Also, most if not all, OEM's do not approve oil additives and friction modifiers as they can damage the catalyst over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Anti-ice additives: This is usually alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you buy it? No, due to the lack of certification and the unapproved oil additive friction modifiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T05:59:51.907" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T05:59:51.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23375" CreationDate="2015-12-14T08:55:37.110" Score="4" ViewCount="12743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 2012 BMW 116i F20 (turbocharged). Bought it at 2012. After two years of using it as default I got it coded with Gorilla so that it's default hp of 136 bumped up to 210. Now it's close to 29K in terms of total kilometres driven since I bought it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been driving the car without any problems. No issues whatsoever since I bought it or after the coding. 4 days ago it gave a coolant level low warning that the service suggested me with topping it with some water. So I did. Then 4 days after (in the meantime, there were no more coolant errors), being the curious type, I opened the coolant tank to check it but my mistake was that I did it after a long drive. So the engine heat evaporated some more coolant when tank opened that I added some more water (I know, another mistake, it should've been more coolant this time, not water to get the 70/30 equilibrium).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, after a couple of hours, another coolant level low warning popped-up. So that I poured a litre of Shell coolant into the tank and observed the coolant temperature through the hidden access menu that night while I was driving back home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, while the engine rested a whole night outside when the outside temperature was like 3-4º C, I observed the coolant temperature while I was commuting to work. Here is what it was like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45º C - when engine started&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;86º&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95º&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105º - stable at this level after 10 minutes or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a soft drive. No high revs. Also checked the coolant level by not opening the tank this time but observing it's level of liquid from the outside. It was nearly at the max. level. So no coolant got lost. I assume no leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this kind of coolant temperature normal for my car in it's condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3943" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T23:46:23.877" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T12:16:05.667" Title="Ideal Coolant Temprature for BMW F20 116i" Tags="|coolant|bmw|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23795" CreationDate="2015-12-14T09:41:10.797" Score="5" ViewCount="3091" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently our country police office released info about a new technique by car thieves. They seem to be able to disable your central car locking system by jamming one door, as posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attention, new thing of thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While your car is locked, they slide a 5 cent coin in the door handle&#xA;  of the passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you leave, nothing happens but when you stop and close your car,&#xA;  the central locking will not function normally and the car will&#xA;  therefore remain open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As soon as your departure, the thieves who have followed you will be&#xA;  able to penetrate in your car and steal everything that interests&#xA;  them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have to control your doors to each closure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsuJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsuJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T03:27:25.850" Title="Central locking disabled using coin" Tags="|locks|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23373" CreationDate="2015-12-14T10:01:36.393" Score="5" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding there is the recommended tire pressures at the inner part of the drivers door, but I have this question in my head just in case this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say my recommended tire pressure is 32 to 35 PSI and this is a 5-seater.&#xA;Say I've reached 37 PSI from loading people and something heavy on top which will be temporary for just a one way trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to take out some air from tires to get it back to 35? Kinda like balancing it out just for the current load I will be having? or is this wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T19:24:10.803" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:24:10.803" Title="Tire Pressure Adjustments When Needed" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23371" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:03:03.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you check the tyre pressures with the vehicle empty (or as empty as you can make it) and the tyres are cold (i.e. you have not driven the vehicle or haven't driven it a significant distance).  Set them to the correct pressure for the load you will carry and then load up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you load the car the pressure will increase slightly but should remain within the maximum pressure rating for your tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T11:34:17.797" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T11:34:17.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23371" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:09:25.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;DON'T reduce tire pressure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the recommended thing to do here would be to increase tire pressure if there is more load expected on the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.puretyre.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Nissan-Qashqai-+-2-Tyre-Pressure-Placard-463x600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.puretyre.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Nissan-Qashqai-+-2-Tyre-Pressure-Placard-463x600.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire Pressure Placard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this tire pressure placard for the Nissan Qashqai as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under normal loads, the factory recommendation is that all tires should be inflated at 33 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under max load (4-7 passengers, more luggage), the fronts should be inflated to 38 psi and the rears at 42 psi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, every vehicle model will have its own unique inflation requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why wouldn't reducing tire pressure work?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure inside the tire helps it keep shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding more load on the vehicle, the sidewalls of the tire will sag assuming the amount of air inside the tires will not have changed, meaning the tires are more underinflated as a result. This should help explain why you need to add more air (higher pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the opposite scenario, if the tire pressures are boosted to the max case, reducing the load of the vehicle will render the tires overinflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPPZ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPPZ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T11:09:25.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23370" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:20:11.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The principle is the same as if you've left a door ajar ... the system will not lock the door. I've had this happen many times in my truck where one door or the other doesn't close all the way. The system recognizes this and won't lock the doors. I will click on the remote twice to lock and then acknowledge (through a horn beep) the locking of the doors. The only thing is, the horn beep never occurs and the locking for the door which is ajar doesn't happen. The principle is the same here because the system views the door as ajar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your locking system has the same setup with an audible acknowledgement of the doors being locked, ensure you are paying attention to it when you walk away from your vehicle. This is the best insurance against would be thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T11:20:11.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23369" CreationDate="2015-12-14T11:41:44.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the different forum posts I've been looking at, 105℃ is about normal. It may get a bit higher under spirited driving. I don't think you have anything to worry about with the coolant temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What worries me about your situation is the coolant drop. Your surge tank/reservoir should not be fluctuating that much. Either the engine is burning coolant or you have a leak somewhere. The only thing which would mitigate this in my mind is if you are not looking at the coolant levels at the same time of vehicle usage. If you are running your vehicle for an extended period of time, the level in the surge tank/reservoir is not going to be at the same level as when the vehicle has been sitting overnight and is completely cooled off. So ensure you are reading apples-to-apples when taking a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant does not usually &lt;em&gt;evaporate&lt;/em&gt; from the system as it is a sealed system. If your levels are below the &quot;low&quot; mark, there could be an issue. You will not do yourself (or your car for that matter) wrong by keeping an eye on it. If, in a few days, you notice the level has dropped again significantly, I'd have it into BMW for some maintenance. Keep a close eye on the levels as you don't want to overheat your car. If it stays relatively the same over the next couple of weeks, I doubt you have anything to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T11:41:44.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23369" CreationDate="2015-12-14T13:01:41.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the BMW part number for the thermostat is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1A11-EUR-06-2012-F20-BMW-116i&amp;amp;diagId=11_5011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;11537600584&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-1-SERIES-F20-F21-F30-F31-THERMOSTAT-WITH-HOUSING-11537600584-/151884007055?hash=item235cfe068f:g:zxcAAOSwsFpWRfMc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on eBay&lt;/a&gt; seems to confirm that the thermostat setpoint is 105 °C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-gcAAOSwT4lWRfMp/s-l1600.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermostat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Paulster2 said, I wouldn't be concerned about the temperature; the car isn't overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The possible causes for &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1104/reasons-for-loss-of-radiator-fluid&quot;&gt;loss of coolant&lt;/a&gt; are many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that your car is relatively new, I'd have the cooling system pressure-tested for leaks. Don't forget the coolant cap as well. If it's acting up, you may be losing coolant through the overflow hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T13:12:45.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8684" CreationDate="2015-12-14T14:21:20.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go on ebay or amazon and look for &quot;citoren lexia&quot; You'll get plenty results with the cables you will need to unlock (as stated in the answer before) And quite possibly you'll also get a CD with software provided. I'd rather not speculate if the software that they might provide is lexia or not, as (as far as i know) obtaining a legal copy of it might be quite pricey. What you can do is shop around for a service center (preferably smaller ones) that might have the cables (and the software they need) to help you out for a bit less, at it shouldn't take no more than 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, I too tried to get AUX on the same radio in my Citroen. I tried all possible combinations on both ports on the back of the radio (there are 1 or  decent instructions sets online) but failed and too came to the horrible realization that i need the cables (and the software). But it might be worth the investment as you can do quite ALOT with the set, and even if not, you can later resell them for nearly as much as you payed for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:21:20.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T14:35:35.060" Score="2" ViewCount="7681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dodge grand caravan 2012 and yesterday, the check engine light went on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there's usually a way to get the error codes without an OBD device... I was able to do this on my old caravan by turning the ignition on 3 times (without starting the engine).  Unfortunately, this trick doesn't seem to work on the 2012 grand caravan and I can't find anything about it in the owner manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still possible to retrieve the code on a 2012?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:02:12.430" Title="Getting MIL on a Dodge Grand Caravan 2012 without an OBD device" Tags="|obd-ii|dodge|dtc|caravan|mil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23383" CreationDate="2015-12-14T14:36:01.723" Score="4" ViewCount="1468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroën C4 2005 Petrol. My central dashboard currently looks like this: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0K3YN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0K3YN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Citroën C4 2005 Dashboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I can buy the following panel from eBay and easily fit a Nexus 7 Tablet inside it, potentially even write an app to get data from OBD2, and even fit the screen inside the glove compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Centre-Dashboard-Facia-Fascia-Panel-Trim-for-Citroen-C4-C-Quatre-C-Triumph-Plate-/271207463493?hash=item3f25397a45:g:jKIAAOSwDk5UAE8K&amp;amp;autorefresh=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the eBay listing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to have the tablet as radio, sat-nav, media player, diagnostics etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not entire sure if the panel from eBay would fit my car as it is for a slightly different model C4 even though they look quite alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T20:22:49.463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:22:49.463" Title="Will this panel fit a C4 for possible onboard PC upgrade?" Tags="|citroen|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23458" CreationDate="2015-12-14T15:11:05.773" Score="6" ViewCount="25400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Yaris T3. It's been serviced regularly, and at the last service the brakes (front and hand brake discs) were checked, and skimmed. That was about 4 months ago. About two weeks ago, something started happening when I braked for the first (or sometimes) second time during a trip, but only intermittently. There was a knocking feeling (no sound initially) on the brake pedal, two to four shudders that feel like someone is hitting pedal lightly with a hammer from underneath. My ABS light would come on for a couple of minutes, then turn off. The brakes don't feel different, and the rest of the trip no matter how long, would be fine. It's more common on cooler mornings, but not exclusive to them. From limited testing, it happens during equally on slow/easy stops and fast/hard stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I booked the car into a mechanic, but with the pre-holiday queues, I had to wait another week. During that week, whatever was happening started making a noise too. The knocking feeling is accompanied by a knocking sound and the &quot;ping&quot; of a large spring releasing (you that &quot;boing&quot; sound?) The mechanic, inspected the brakes, but he couldn't find anything. The ABS reported some minor issues which he attended to, dirty sensor, loose connection, and he told me my clutch was on the way out, but would last another 6 months or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are that it could possibly be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brakes because it happens when I brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CV joints because of the spring sound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shock absorbers/suspension because of the spring sound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching initially yielded this possibly similar question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22656/banging-sounds-coming-in-front-of-my-car/22715&quot;&gt;Banging sounds coming in front of my car&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that a loose torque plate bolt is the problem? I have the car booked in for tomorrow morning again, but I'm struggling to describe the symptoms to the mechanic. I was hoping some of you fine folks might have had a similar problem and could point me (and thence my mechanic) to the cause of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1978" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T12:22:46.983" Title="Brakes knock and make springing sounds shortly after starting to drive" Tags="|brakes|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23381" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:15:16.950" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T19:15:16.950" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:15:16.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23382" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:15:16.950" Score="0" Body="A Spanish motorcycle manufacturer." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T23:23:46.807" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:23:46.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23379" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:20:14.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way for me to tell if the attachment system from the back is compatible, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Centre-Dashboard-Facia-Fascia-Panel-Trim-for-Citroen-C4-C-Quatre-C-Triumph-Plate-/271207463493?hash=item3f25397a45:g:jKIAAOSwDk5UAE8K&amp;amp;autorefresh=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay listing&lt;/a&gt; has a very useful image for you shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is verify with a ruler or measuring tape that the dimensions between the hazard lights button and corresponding button on the left has a center-to-center length of 240 mm and end-to-end length of 265 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlxiY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlxiY.png&quot; alt=&quot;eBay Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:20:14.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22923" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:36:08.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely your issues are related to old glow plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glow plug replacement is a standard maintenance task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your glow plugs in a diesel are the equivalent to spark plugs in a gasoline engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:36:08.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22906" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:42:17.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems this issue is caused by one of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad steering sensors that are mounted on the rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering sensors need to be 'aligned'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem seems to be that the sensors in the steering rack that tell the electric assist motor the position of the wheels and which way to boost the steering, left or right, are out of alignment. So there a sub-second delay in the boost, which causes the notchy feel to the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:42:17.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:48:17.590" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to search music in the BMW 320D Touring menu?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also can't scroll through the music list in a cd/dvd. Only lets me scroll through the songs already on screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can i scroll through the entire playlist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:17:23.633" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:17:23.633" Title="Is there a way to search music in a 2005 BMW 320D Touring" Tags="|audio|320d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24043" CreationDate="2015-12-14T20:54:40.553" Score="5" ViewCount="2485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Mazda Protégé 2002 and a few weeks later I noticed a damp spot on the back passenger side floor. Very wet and soaked. Later I noticed the smell grew larger and the vapor on the glass grew heavier. I then noticed the water was also in the front passenger side.&#xA;I used a vacuum and soaked about a cup of dirty &quot;water&quot; can't tell if it's water or a leak from within.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on removing this water, if it was because of the rain? Or where to look if the liquid came from a leak from within the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: also the water reaches to the trunk and all areas is just the right side, passenger side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13676" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:51:38.413" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T05:57:52.583" Title="Water underneath floor carpet - Mazda Protégé 2002" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|cleaning|gasket|water-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11183" CreationDate="2015-12-14T21:49:54.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually indicative of a sensor used by the ABS which is giving bad or intermittent signal. Basically, the ABS and traction control systems switch off because they don't trust the signals they receive from the various sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the description of your problem, I am inclined to believe that the loss of signal from one of the wheel speed sensors is causing the systems to switch off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;inspect the wiring for the wheel speed sensors to see if there are any breaks or points where a loose connection may cause temporary loss of signal from one of the wheel speed sensors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if possible (and this may well be a long shot) back-probe the wheel speed sensors to see if they read out voltages when their corresponding wheel is in the air and spun by hand&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T21:49:54.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11026" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:28:28.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not a location to refill the ATF on this vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to take it to a shop where they have special pumps to remove and replace the current ATF in your transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:28:28.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12929" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:38:21.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP resolved this issue as per his &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12929/obdii-codes-p0304-and-p0430#comment17054_12929&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The problem has been solved by changing one coil and cat repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the reason for the misfire was a bad coil, while the catalytic converter had to be &quot;repaired&quot;, possibly replaced due to clogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:38:21.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4934" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:09:07.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to resolve this dent issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;glue these plastic ding tabs to the gas tank.  You can find them by googling &amp;quot;plastic ding tab&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your gas tank.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a dent puller slide hammer.  The tip should screw into the plastic ding pullers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the weight of the slide hammer to the bottom towards the gas tank and give it a good pull.  When the sliding weight hits the stop at the end of the hammer the transferred energy will pull onto the glued tab and pull the dent out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to repeat the operation a few times to get the way it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't very elegant but I have used compressed air by sealing the top of the gastank, removing the petcock and blocking off any cracks.  I use one of the two screw holes for the petcock to insert a rubber tipped air gun and charge the gas tank up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It CAN ruin the tank if you over fill with air pressure.  You can set the regulator on the compressor to only give you 30psi to start and work your way up in 5psi increments until the dent pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:09:07.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:31:21.080" Score="1" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Honda Accord is shaking while idling, and every once in a while there is a rattle in the engine like something is loose. I have had it checked out, and replaced all of the engine mounts to no avail, nothing is working. I'm not sure what else to do... it does not do it while im driving, only when the car is idling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13678" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:39:14.413" Title="2003 Honda Accord Vibration and noise in engine" Tags="|honda|accord|vibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T11:47:17.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:33:00.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like a bad brake caliper piston. When they start to go bad they tend to &quot;stick&quot;. Sticking means that the piston inside the caliper is not freely sliding in and out when pressing against the brake pads. The sound you hear could be the caliper freeing itself from the stuck position. The springs sound could also be related because your car uses metal shims (that act like springs) to hold the brake pad in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a safety issue. Take it to your mechanic and have him inspect the calipers by removing the pads and pumping the brakes. Any damage will be obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper can be rebuilt at a lower cost. Toyota sells an affordable repair kit. The mechanic might recommend a new caliper because its easier for him to replace. Your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:33:00.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22368" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:39:24.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having spent a few years in a shop I completely understand LKQ not honoring a warranty for this engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lkqcorp.com/Portals/13/PDFs/Warranty%20PDFs/Reman%20Engine%20Warranty%208-22-14.pdf&quot;&gt;warranty document&lt;/a&gt; it's pretty clear that almost nothing is covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the manufacturer looks at the aftermarket turbo is this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are increasing the volumetric efficiency beyond what the engine was intended to handle regarding power then you are potentially compromising the integrity of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A turbo is going to add quite a bit of additional power to the vehicle.  The addition of the turbo does multiple things to the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the piston&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the wrist pin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the connecting rod&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the offset journal and bearings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the crankshaft &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased force on the big end conrod bearing cap&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet money that the failure in the connecting rod occured at the bearing cap and that the bolts broke holding the bearing cap and the offset journal knocked the rod out of the side of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the amount of additional force within the motor it isn't reasonable to expect the manufacturer to warranty it.  You could consider the turbo a racing component even though you may not have been racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen a manufacturer warranty an aftermarket forced induction products other than Toyota on their TRD superchargers for their V6 line, which are covered under the Toyota warranty if a Toyota dealership installs them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you covered the warranty aspects with the shop and that the motor would have a warranty and they installed it with your aftermarket turbo it is their responsibility to communicate to you that you would be voiding the warranty.  After all, they are the experts, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:39:24.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14660" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:44:26.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like you have a bad coolant temperature sensor. It tells the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) if the coolant is hot or cold so it can adjust the mixture through the fuel injection system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad CTS will give the ECU incorrect readings and the mixture will not be matched to the temperature of the vehicle.  Fuel mixture settings are very dependent upon temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its an easy and cheap fix on your car. The sensor is located near the thermostat housing. You can do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3dAAAOSwbqpTyDyI/s-l1600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Housing assembly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part is black plastic bit protruding on the bottom left. This part is located on the driver's side of the vehicle. A radiator hose is connected to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T00:13:09.760" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:13:09.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:54:48.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly sounds like the heater core is leaking coolant into the car's interior. Like Ducatikiller said it should smell a little bit sweet, but if you still can't tell stick your finger in the fluid and give it a rub-test. You will be able to tell water from engine coolant by how it feels. Also have a good look at the floorboards and the firewall in the front passenger seat area. The heater core is a very small &quot;radiator&quot; which is mounted in the car's heater assembly, engine coolant circulates through this radiator and the heater fan motor blows or sucks air through this radiator to provide hot air inside the car. When the heater core leaks, most of the time the engine coolant leaks inside the car. And it will stay on the right side due to the usual shape of the floorpan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:54:48.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2015-12-14T23:59:15.410" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Master cylinder is going out of business. Make sure to replace it and bench bleed it before re-installing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T23:59:15.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22526" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:01:29.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a bad ECM (engine control module, AKA the computer). Its a common issue with your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad ECM will throw inconsistent error codes. Have a mechanic test with another ECM before you set off and replace other items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T00:59:08.610" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:59:08.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9672" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:04:42.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing off the shelf. It requires the plastic part to be fixed with plastic filler. Then its a matter of having the paint matched at an auto paint shop. This seems like a simple repair but it gets complicated really quick. Mostly because getting the plastics back into original shape requires a good hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to go to the junkyard/recycling center and buy some used replacements in good condition. Cheaper and quicker. Don't forget the clips that hold them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:04:42.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12502" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:25:13.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as though the Grand Cherokee has a clutch fan. If so, this could be locking up and causing the noise. When fully locked, it can make quite a racket as well as putting a drag on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:25:13.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22413" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:35:45.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I don't think it's a car part. I think it's a bi-swivel mount for a flag stanchion so you can get it &lt;em&gt;at just the right angle&lt;/em&gt; from anywhere. You know, for those decorative flags people put out on the front of their house? I did a cursory glance and didn't find anything which looked &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; like it ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T00:35:45.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23512" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:46:08.527" Score="5" ViewCount="11782" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Toyota Prius with 280k miles is throwing the P0420 code, which means that it (probably) needs a new catalytic converter. I live in California, which makes life much more difficult to replace a cat. The direct fit CARB-compliant catalytic converter cost about $1500 in the Toyota dealers (from I could search, still didn't asked to one directly), which is way too expensive compared to welding a universal catalytic converter (about $300). Will it still pass smog with a universal catalytic converted welded in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T19:07:11.213" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T17:34:00.300" Title="Can a universal catalytic converter be legally fitted to my Prius in California?" Tags="|obd-ii|catalytic-converter|prius|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23404" CreationDate="2015-12-15T01:06:37.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a junkyard/recycling center before buying the part new. You can find one in good condition for much less. If you want a new part, ordering it online is usually cheaper. This is not something that the dealership &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to do. Have your mechanic remove the old and install the new. Then delete/reset the codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has your mechanic tested the O2 sensors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T01:06:37.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2015-12-15T01:16:08.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This link to a Bosch CAN spec may be helpful: &lt;a href=&quot;http://kvaser.com/software/7330130980914/V1/can2spec.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kvaser.com/software/7330130980914/V1/can2spec.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find some useful information here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackersdelight.org/crc.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hackersdelight.org/crc.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T01:16:08.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23410" CreationDate="2015-12-15T01:23:06.303" Score="9" ViewCount="121511" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Vitz 2007 idles roughly and I got advice to clean the throttle body and make the vehicle re-learn the idle by starting the engine and let it idle for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it necessary to instruct the vehicle in some way (disconnecting the battery may be) to start re-learning? Or does it keep relearning always so that it is unnecessary to trigger it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T18:58:30.250" Title="How to trigger an idle throttle position re-learn?" Tags="|toyota|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23407" CreationDate="2015-12-15T01:27:40.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually requires the negative battery terminal to be disconnected for 5 minutes. Everything else is done by the computer. It will self adjust rather quickly. If it does not adjust, have your mechanic check for any codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T01:27:40.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T03:55:14.473" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a (new to me) 1974 Corvette with the 5.7 / GM 350 .  Dual exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driver's side exhaust sounds perfect.  Passenger's side exhaust has a subtle pop/rattle to it and does not pass the &quot;dollar bill test&quot; in that is slightly sucks/rattles the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I to assume I've got a burnt valve or is there a good starting point/checklist before I get that far.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13680" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T12:00:01.657" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T12:00:01.657" Title="74 Corvette with slight pop in exhaust" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|valve|corvette|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23407" CreationDate="2015-12-15T04:39:27.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this vehicle as a Yaris; 1NZ-FE engine, and that is the vehicle I am commenting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota does not mention a specific procedure for an idle relearn in their official service information. &#xA;Even the procedure for throttle body replacement does not mention a relearn procedure. The info does not state that a procedure is not needed, it is silent on the subject. Experience has taught that when service info does not mention a relearn the PCM performs this task without intervention. Self learn is normal and has become the routine for most PCM relearns for throttles, crankshafts, camshafts, evaporative purge amounts, individual cylinder fuel control and others. Most of these are done with software based on neural network type algorithms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a standard idle relearn with no OEM specified procedure the best method is to drive the vehicle for a time with lots of stop and start cycles. This usually resolves idle irregularities. If not try, the next method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional techs learn some tips and workarounds. One of them is this, to reset a PCM that is not performing as expected remove both battery terminals touch them together for at least thirty seconds. This can, but does not always resolve a problem. It is a last resort procedure because it resets all the memories in every computer in the vehicle so be prepared to reset everything. Make sure to have the radio security code. On a luxury vehicles this often requires owner input to reset owner preferences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not work seek professional diagnostic help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short term subscription for Toyota tech info is available here &lt;a href=&quot;https://techinfo.toyota.com&quot;&gt;https://techinfo.toyota.com&lt;/a&gt;. This is available in the US, I do not know if such is available elsewhere. This material is copyrighted so I will not copy it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T04:39:27.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2015-12-15T10:10:54.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it's being caused by the clutch not releasing properly. I think the Allegro uses a Hydraulic clutch, so it's likely to be one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insufficient movement of the clutch pressure plate - if the sprinngs or fingers are worn, it might not be working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insufficient movement of the clutch release arm - This could be bent or cracked - I've even heard of them breaking in two on some cars of that era.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insufficient movement of the slave cylinder - either it's sticking, or the hydraulics aren't working properly - it might just need bleeding...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T10:10:54.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23416" CreationDate="2015-12-15T11:19:58.483" Score="4" ViewCount="3149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the recommended tire pressure indicated in the car's user manual and in the driver's door. I've been reading a lot about filling tires with nitrogen and a few of the advantages has caught my interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do this, do I still follow the same recommended tire pressure indicated for the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T12:13:13.053" Title="Do I follow the same recommended tire pressure when I change to nitrogen filled tires?" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23415" CreationDate="2015-12-15T11:28:20.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to fill using the same tire pressure recommendations. Remember, when you fill your tires with normal air, it is composed of 70% nitrogen in the first place. Pure nitrogen is not going to be that different as to need an adjustment in the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T11:28:20.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23409" CreationDate="2015-12-15T11:59:51.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are on the money with your burnt valve theory. The idea here when doing the &quot;dollar bill test&quot; is when there is a rattle like you describe, there is reversion happening at one or more of the cylinders. Reversion meaning instead of there being a clean exhaust flow (all one way), there is sucking happening from one of the exhaust valves during the intake cycle. This would indicate a burnt or non-sealing valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the un-initiated, the &quot;dollar bill test&quot; is putting a bill (in the States it's a dollar bill or any denomination, actually) against the exhaust pipe while the engine is running. If everything is working well, the bill should only poof out from the exhaust pipe as the exhaust is only flowing one way ... &lt;em&gt;OUT&lt;/em&gt;. If you have one or more burnt exhaust valves, the bill will rattle on the exhaust due to reversion happening. Reversion is where the exhaust is being sucked back up into the exhaust pipe during the intake cycle of the cylinder. This is really a very ingenious test and very old school in its origin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with the diagnosis, you can perform compression and leak down tests on your cylinders. This will give you the health of your cylinders and will hopefully tell you which cylinder(s) is/are having issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T11:59:51.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23420" CreationDate="2015-12-15T12:05:01.177" Score="6" ViewCount="14955" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/23418/675&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; recently made reference to an exhaust failing the &quot;dollar bill&quot; test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one perform it and what does it tell you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T12:16:38.327" Title="What is the &quot;dollar bill&quot; test?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23418" CreationDate="2015-12-15T12:12:17.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being in the UK and having no access to dollar bills, I assume that it involves holding a dollar bill over the end of the tail pipe of a running car and looking for signs of oil on the note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would show up if there were wear to oil seals within the engine, such as valve stem seals.  A similar test in the UK is to place a white cotton rag across the tail pipe and see if it gets excessively blackened by emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T12:12:17.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23418" CreationDate="2015-12-15T12:16:38.327" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dollar bill test is quite simply using a dollar bill (any denomination ... doesn't have to be American currency, even) and placing it against the exhaust tip while the vehicle is idling. You are looking/listening to what the bill does while against the exhaust tip. If it just flutters there without making much noise, you have healthy exhaust valves. If it &lt;em&gt;rattles&lt;/em&gt; against the tail pipe, you may have a burnt exhaust valve (no guarantees here), which would be a basis for further examination, such as compression and leakdown tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening is this, when an exhaust valve is burnt, it is no longer sealing against the valve seat. When idling, there is usually a great deal of vacuum created during the intake cycle. If the valve is burnt and leaking, you'll get &lt;em&gt;reversion&lt;/em&gt;. Reversion is where the exhaust flow changes direction back toward the cylinder, which should not be happening. By placing the bill on the exhaust tip, the bill will rattle. The noise will be very noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, in order for this test to work correctly, you need to have a good exhaust system (without leaks). The bill also has to have a good fit over the exhaust tip. If it's too small, the effect wont occur. I don't know how well it will work with exhausts which have cross-over or h-pipes built into the system. The engine has to be idling as the vacuum is much less and the exhaust flow is much greater when the engine is off-idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T12:16:38.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12892" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:42:50.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be my drive belt. I replaced it, costed it quite a lot from Halfords. The car is gone due to an accident recently, but that is unrelated to this problem. THe issue was fixed after I replaced the drive belt. Usually 43k-44k is the standard change time for fan belts I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastEditorUserId="7076" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T20:59:19.283" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:59:19.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23378" CreationDate="2015-12-15T15:02:12.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can still read the code without a code reader with a key dance.  Some people said the e-brake must be on in order to do this but the main problem in my case was about the key dance itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there's 4 ignition key positions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessories&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was doing the key dance, I was doing it between position 1 and 3.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just find out that the key dance has to be done between 2 and 3 (Run -&gt; Accessories -&gt; Run -&gt; Accessories -&gt; Run)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T15:02:12.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22755" CreationDate="2015-12-15T16:40:03.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The black powder was charcoal from the evaporative fuel filter/canister.  This filters evaporated fuel from your fuel tank.  When your fuel tank gets warmer and the gasses expand above the fuel line they pass through this canister and are filtered out by the charcoal.  When the temperature drops a reed valve opens due to the pressure change in other direction and the vapors are drawn into the intake manifold and are burned off by the combustion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is NOT your fuel pump and blowing air through it is a way of unclogging it.  If it is clogged it can cause pressure build up in your fuel tank under certain circumstances.  This component is a part of your emissions system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rough idle issue is more than likely caused by another problem.  If you take your vehicle to a local auto parts store they can attach a 'code reader' to your car and check for error codes.  If you can post your error codes with your rough idle issue under a new question someone on the site will attempt to answer that question with the error codes as hints as to what your idle issue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T16:40:03.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21784" CreationDate="2015-12-15T17:11:05.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a non-sequential gearbox and can select any gear you desire.  By design, the type of manual transmission you have allows you to do this.  It is fine and will not damage your transmission at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as you do not over-rev your engine getting back to first and you rev match the engine, as well, should not incur any damage either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T17:11:05.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23427" CreationDate="2015-12-15T17:40:52.077" Score="4" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what the effects on an oil pump are when oil is changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously after changing the oil filter the engine will run dry without oil pressure for the first few seconds while oil is sucked up past the non-return valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that for the engine itself this is not a huge deal as todays oils are magnetic and stick to things, but what effect does this have on an oil pump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it degrade its performance in anyway? Or is the oil pump &quot;tougher&quot; than the engine. What I mean by excessive is every 3000 miles. To some people this is common and perfectly acceptable but I am curious to how the oil pump is affected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T18:18:31.007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T18:18:31.007" Title="What are the effects of excessive oil changes on an oil pump? (read description)" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23434" CreationDate="2015-12-15T17:45:55.687" Score="3" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 60mph my engine revs at 2800RPM and at 70 it's 3200RPM. My qustion is which condition would give the most miles from my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T14:17:38.527" Title="What would be better for an engine driving at 60mph or 70mph? I wish to get the most miles out of my engine?" Tags="|engine|efficiency|engine-load|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23425" CreationDate="2015-12-15T18:02:55.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many mechanical oil pumps look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UXPn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UXPn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is very little mechanical resistance and friction occurring in this design.  With very little lubrication this type of oil pump will do just fine in terms of wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you change your oil the fluid in the pump will more than likely not be drained, as a result there will be some lubrication in the pump itself.  This low amount of lubrication will be protect the oil pump under the conditions you specified.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be concerned with oil pump damage from the results of an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T18:02:55.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:21:50.867" Score="11" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the correct size Koni front shocks for a 1968 Beetle at stock height?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased the (red) Koni D 80-1787 which Koni's site recommended as a stock shock replacement. My mechanic says they're too short. The wheels drop only about an inch when the car is on the lift. Thus there's no down travel and the car bounces when on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sitting on the ground the height from the bottom of the shock to the top shock mount is about 16-7/8&quot;. The Koni rep tells me that the heights for the 80-1787 are 16.8&quot; fully extended and 13.3 or 10.7 compressed (depending on if the foam stopper is removed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of how shocks work is that you should at least have some down travel. So, I basically have zero down travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I get the wrong part number? I've heard of a &quot;lowered&quot; version. Did I end up with that accidentally? The part number installed on my car is 80-1787 with an 18-2014 below it. The car was stock until I installed an Airkewld beam. Since the shocks mount to the beam I can't tell why it'd matter if it was lowered or not (which it is not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have the wrong shocks somehow? I'm looking for a stock amount of travel, just in a modern shock. And I basically settled on Koni because dampening is adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPyCj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPyCj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzLb2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzLb2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image: shows shock fully extended on the ground&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T00:25:07.090" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T00:18:30.877" Title="1968 Beetle Front Shocks (Koni)" Tags="|vw|suspension|shock-absorber|beetle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23426" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:36:54.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if anybody has documented this, but I think it is self-evident that slower speeds and lower rpm's will result in greater longevity. Imagine driving your car at a steady 5000 rpm, and consider it's lifespan compared to 2500 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T19:36:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:00:02.373" Score="3" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;A buddy of mine is considering a fix it upper road bike for fun and to learn (prior dirt bike rider). I still go by the rule of thumb that 600cc is iffy for beginners but a lot of used 1980s bikes are 600cc-1000c and less powerful than their modern equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the performance somewhat comparable to modern engines with same CC? Weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13689" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T22:51:55.293" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T08:53:38.237" Title="1980s motorcycles and engine size: still good performance?" Tags="|motorcycle|performance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:17:23.550" Score="6" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;So imagine I have car D with the dead battery and car G with the good battery.  Initially, both cars are turned off.  I hook up car G to car D in the proper order.  Before I start either car, won't there be a complete circuit going from battery G to battery D in the form of a back current?  Because, AFAIK, the internal resistance of car batteries are so small, won't that mean the back current is rather large?  So how is this procedure safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13695" OwnerDisplayName="John Zheng" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T21:46:39.203" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T19:47:25.313" Title="When jump-starting a car, won't there be a huge back current into the dead battery?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:28:04.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jumper cables are not that great as conductors go, and jumper cable clamps are not that good as connectors go. If there's a hope in heck for the dead battery, the voltage difference is only a couple of volts. If the voltage difference is more than a couple of volts, the dead battery will also have a very high resistance due to expired cells. If you really follow the published proper procedures, you will be connecting to the metal body of the car rather than directly to the battery for even more resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt;, numerous people manage to blow themselves up doing it wrong every year. But that's &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; from managing to combine a collection of hydrogen with sparks. Dead shorts are an interesting screw-up as well. It's &lt;em&gt;reasonably&lt;/em&gt; safe if you know what you are doing and do it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" OwnerDisplayName="Ecnerwal" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T19:34:49.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:29:02.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there will be some back current flowing into the dead battery, but the same regulation circuit in the G car will protect it from doing damage. You can connect the D car with the G car running to get more current. I have done this many times, and never had a problem - you'll notice a spark once you complete the circuit, but this is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" OwnerDisplayName="philbrooksjazz" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T19:29:02.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23426" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:16:51.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;60 MPH assuming you are in the same gear at both speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a constant gear, your engine turns at a fixed ratio to the distance you travel.  So if you travel from A to B your engine will always turn X revolutions, regardless of speed.  In other words, the piston experiences the exact same number of cycles regardless of 60 or 70 mph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air friction increases exponentially, so at 70 mph you are using more fuel per engine revolution, and thus increasing the load on your engine. This load is transferred through the pistons, bearings, crankshaft, etc all the way through your drive train, including your camshaft. The tension on the timing chain increases, the load on the lobes of the camshaft increases and these things wear down your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are comparing two speeds where the engine is in the same temperature range you do not have to be concerned about under/over cooling.  This comparison is not the same as going 1MPH vs 70MPH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:16:51.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:29:33.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If he is an experienced motocross rider on a 450cc, he &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; be comfortable on the road with a 600cc. Granted, riding on the street is a different beast than on the track. Most of the time it's not yourself that you have to worry about, but everyone else. People will make a habit of not seeing you. On top of that, you don't want the added risk of a bike that you cannot control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still recommend starting on a small cc bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performance all depends on the manufacturer and specific bike. Some bikes of old can still lay down the rubber compared to bikes of today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:29:33.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:41:27.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the engine size is as much a factor as the geometry for a new rider.  Of course mentality is the most critical.  Geometry is function of the type of riding.  If this is in a city with congested roads I'd opt for something more upright with better visibility.  Back then you could get trail bikes and ride them on the road, and they were very easy to ride unless you were on a very windy freeway.  My first bike was a Honda FT500 and it was good for a learner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in hesitation to put the new rider on a modern liter bike, or even a modern 600cc sport bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the late 90's motorcycles always had much better acceleration than cars so it was easy to get ahead of the traffic from a red light and get away from the other cars.  In the late 90's cars started getting &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster off the line and motorcycles started getting ridiculously fast and light.  Regular riders on their 80's bikes lost the assumed lead they had off the line and had to adjust riding style (usually this was subconscious as the learned to check their sides more)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13616" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:41:27.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:43:24.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Honda V-engines were &lt;em&gt;very powerful&lt;/em&gt; for their times. When the V65 Magna came out, it was the fastest street bike for its model year. IIRC, the Sabre uses the same engine. That makes the Sabre a very formidable bike, whether it's an 80's bike or what. If the rider is new to riding, it would be my suggestion they not get it because it is a lot of bike. Learn how to ride on a 600cc (or less) bike, because chances are the 1100 is going to be way too much for &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T20:43:24.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T20:48:12.570" Score="7" ViewCount="8494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the shop install an Airkewld adjustable beam on my 1968 Beetle. How do I now adjust the height of my car? Airkewld seems to have a few how-tos but they're not well written and apply to a complete install. Looks like I just have to loosen the two bolts but I'm not clear what happens after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car have to be jacked from both sides? How does the beam move? Which way makes the car go up/down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to reduce the amount of lowering. It seems like it's already as low as it'll go but I can't tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beam:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airkewld.com/Ultimate-4-Narrowed-Adjustable-Front-Beam-2120-p/2120.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.airkewld.com/Ultimate-4-Narrowed-Adjustable-Front-Beam-2120-p/2120.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LU1Bx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LU1Bx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqQlj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqQlj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastEditorUserId="12929" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T21:23:36.163" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T21:03:47.740" Title="1968 Beetle How to adjust adjustable beam" Tags="|vw|beetle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:04:19.677" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if you use the wrong grade gear oil into the car. I happened to me, although I was having only little amount left to full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13691" LastEditorUserId="4340" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T21:23:10.917" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:23:10.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2015-12-15T21:45:52.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have an issue with the way you are thinking. You are describing the issue as if the batteries are hooked up in series. In that case, yes there'd be a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; back current going on. Both batteries would be made into a complete circuit and you'd have global thermal nuclear meltdown (or whatever the car battery equivalent would be). This is not the case when jumping a car as the batteries are hooked in &lt;em&gt;parallel&lt;/em&gt; (positive-to-positive &amp;amp; negative-to-negative). There is no circuit made, just additional amperage to get the dead battery car started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how you actually jump vehicles, you need to have your &quot;good&quot; car running at the time you attach the jumpers or you run the risk of damaging your vehicle's electrical system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T21:45:52.947" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17589" CreationDate="2015-12-15T22:26:33.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally pulled the radio out, and found the previous owner had put a band expander in line without connecting the power cable to anything. I don't know what a band expander does when connected passively (I assume it would just hinder the antenna's performance), but taking that out fixed the issue. I'm also almost 100% sure that the stereo I have has a band expander built in anyway so possibly the previous owner didn't realize it wasn't necessary. Cheers guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T22:26:33.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23460" CreationDate="2015-12-15T23:18:53.057" Score="5" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which way should this dipstick be placed? When placed in with the bend facing towards the engine it gives a different reading from when placed facing the opposite way. There is not a great deal of difference between the readings so I do not believe that it matters greatly just wondering if anyone knows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1.25 Duratec ford fiesta if it matters &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in the readings is about 1/3 of the distance between the min and max. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(pointless question I know I am just curious)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFBbB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFBbB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T04:15:56.423" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T07:56:30.820" Title="oil level on dipstick" Tags="|engine|oil|small-engine|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23446" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-15T23:38:51.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A type of internal combustion engine where all of the cycles of combustion occur in one 360 rotation of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several types of two stroke engines that include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piston controlled inlet port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reed inlet valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotary inlet valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross flow scavenged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uniflow scavenged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stepped piston engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is type piston controlled inlet port where the piston skirt controls the timing of the port inlet flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a two-cycle or two stroke engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATDZI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATDZI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="34564" LastEditDate="2017-12-29T20:58:47.437" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T20:58:47.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23447" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-15T23:38:51.087" Score="0" Body="A type of internal combustion engine where all of the cycles of combustion occur in one 360 rotation of the crankshaft." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T07:57:59.930" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T07:57:59.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19274" CreationDate="2015-12-16T00:08:20.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have some oil getting into your cooling system.  This can be caused by a bad head gasket or not properly torquing the heads to the block of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When oil gets into the radiator it gets emulsified by the water pump and the end result is that it looks like what you have described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the vehicle back to the shop, they will have to own this issue as they did the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will have to replace your head gasket, make sure you head is completely flat and not warped and ensure that the mounting point on the block for the head is completely flat to ensure that this will not reoccur again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best of luck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T00:08:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11277" CreationDate="2015-12-16T00:34:43.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be an indication that the transmission is going bad, I bought a used one from a scrap shop, the cost was around $700 with installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6417" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T00:34:43.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-16T00:43:24.767" Score="6" ViewCount="7156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car leaks oil when driving not while parked. The bottom of the vehicle is covered with oil and there's white smoke coming from tail pipe when driving. It sat and there no oil puddle in garage but there is some indication of oil coming from tail pipe. The car is a 2001 For Mustang GT 4.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13697" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T00:47:47.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T02:27:14.167" Title="Car leaks oil when driving, Oil from exhaust pipe" Tags="|engine|ford|oil|exhaust|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23451" CreationDate="2015-12-16T02:26:23.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white smoke coming from your exhaust may indicate that you have water leaking from your coolant system through the head gasket into the combustion chamber. The water will be burnt with the fuel causing vapour coming from your exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the oil leak perhaps it may not be coming from the exhaust and may be coming from the rocker cover gasket or head gasket. A car should not leak oil when parked unless there is a crack in the sump as oil does not circulate around the vehicle when the engine is off. Assuming when you say parked is with the engine off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking into account that you have white smoke coming from the tailpipe and also this oil leak problem I would say it's the head gasket that has failed as both these problems can relate to the head gasket. What I recommend you do before proceeding is check if you coolant has any mustard like substance indicating that your oil and coolant has mixed due to head gasket failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T02:26:23.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23367" CreationDate="2015-12-16T02:32:19.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out the drum adjusters were set wrong and seized. As near as I can reason, what I was feeling at first was the fluid back-pressure needed to overcome the portioning valves (and some braking force from the discs). Then the &quot;dead zone&quot; was fighting the drum's wheel cylinder return spring after the portioning valves had opened. The final stage of normal braking occurred after the drum wheel cylinders expanded fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for your answers! I hope this helps someone in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7882" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T02:32:19.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2015-12-16T03:37:32.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;in practice the voltage on a resting depeleted battery while receiving a moderate charge and the voltage on a good battery at is about the same.&#xA;so some current will flow into the flat battery, maybe 20A or so, but this is not much compared to the starter current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you're doing it right the leads on the broken car go to the top end of the started cable (battery positive terminal) and to the engine block, so when starting is attempted the resistance of the path through the starter will be lower than the path through the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charging the &quot;dead&quot; battery isn't actually a bad thing, The depelted battery does receive some charge, the smaller jumper cables (like 100A or 200A) won't carry enough current to start the engine, their use relies on the depleted battery receiving some charge anf giving some assistance before the engine can be started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T03:37:32.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23497" CreationDate="2015-12-16T04:44:31.013" Score="6" ViewCount="12400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Plymouth Neon, it has a manual transmission. Recently the car has started to not stop the engine when I shift into neutral. If I shift into neutral while moving, the engine will rev like it is moving faster (because it is not in gear and can spin freely). After I slow the car down a bit the revving sound starts to oscillate, then stops when the car stops. The car also feels like it is shaking right as I take the key out. Does anyone know what might have caused this and how to fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13701" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:22:36.783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:22:36.783" Title="Engine continues to spin after putting in neutral" Tags="|engine|manual-transmission|neon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2015-12-16T06:17:18.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ABS light will turn on every time the you feel the shudder in the brake pedal, then the ABS braking is being actuated. This could be caused by a tire skidding or the ABS computer thinking a wheel is skidding. The wheel speed sensors report the speed of each wheel to the ABS which determines if the car is skidding. &#xA;You mentioned that it happens on slow/easy stops. I would said a wheel sensor is reporting that a wheel has stopped even though the wheel is still turning. One of the wheel speed sensors is probably damaged. &#xA;Yaris forums report a lot of problems with the rear wheel speed sensors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13702" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T06:17:18.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23457" CreationDate="2015-12-16T06:50:33.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of this symptom is sticking of the automatic idle control valve. It is located on the throttle body right above the throttle position sensor. The idle control motor opens and closes to allow more or less air to bypass the throttle blade. The more air it lets through the higher the engine speed will be. It is controlled by the PCM. When the engine is cold it opens farther for increased speed and then when the engine is warm it lets less air in to hold the speed at 700 rpm. If a scan tool is available that will show idle speed step counts check the count when the idle speed is too high. If the number is low or zero the PCM is trying to lower the speed. In this case the idle speed motor is likely stuck and not responding to the close command. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the count is high then the PCM is commanding the speed to be high. In the this case try this. Remove &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; battery cable connectors from the terminals and hold them together for about 30 seconds and then reconnect them and retest the idle. Caution this will clear all memories from the vehicle including the radio security code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tests will find the cause of this symptom most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T06:50:33.587" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23445" CreationDate="2015-12-16T07:56:30.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To have a level difference equivalent to one-third of the difference between min and max is quite large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me that the dipstick is not fully seated in the dipstick channel in one of the orientations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider the orientation in which the dipstick rests lower in the channel (resulting in a higher level reading) to be the correct one to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T07:56:30.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21047" CreationDate="2015-12-16T08:10:02.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP indicated in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21047/timing-belt-changed-wont-start#comment31171_21047&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; that they didn't maintain timing in the process of replacing the timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the 2007 Accord V6 has an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/23041/675&quot;&gt;interference&lt;/a&gt; engine, attempting to crank the engine over with the timing off will result in mechanical damage, which would explain why it is running roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T08:10:02.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23431" CreationDate="2015-12-16T10:20:13.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I understand the question with regards to &quot;How is this safe?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to pose the alternate question; how is it unsafe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure is that you have the car with the good battery running.  When you make the last connection you will sometimes see sparks.  Jumper cables are typically well insulated so provided you've not got unburned fuel around the area that's sparking, what is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you usually have to leave the good car hooked up and sometimes rev the engine for a while before there is enough charge in the flat battery to try to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T10:20:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21704" CreationDate="2015-12-16T12:37:15.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There is no one-size-fits-all formula&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an analogy can help explain why this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The volumetric efficiency of an engine is analogous to a person's ability to fill their lungs with air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To continue with the analogy, the various OBDII parameters are like a person's vital signs, such as heart rate, blood pressure and O2 saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To say that the rate of lung fill between a smoker and non-smoker would be the same if their vital signs were identical would be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In similar vein (no pun intended), each engine has its own signature volumetric efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong - yes it is possible to relate the various OBDII parameters to volumetric efficiency through an extensive mapping (which would involve bench-testing the engine in question) but even then this map would reflect the behavior of &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the engine that was tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No guarantees can be given for other identically manufactured engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Predicting volumetric efficiency with just OBDII parameters would be an exercise in futility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T12:37:15.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15686" CreationDate="2015-12-16T14:23:12.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced this on a Ford Escort RS Turbo and the source of the vibration was traced to a warped brake disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was exacerbated on this particular car as the wheel design meant one side of he car would force cool air across the brake and on the otherside, not.  This was the side that warped the disc.  sadly with alarming regularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Zaid says, it is possible that it could be an out of balance wheel, in improperly inflated tyre or it could even be a loose wheel bearing on the rear or worn engine mounts but my first port of call would be to have the brake rotors turned on a brake lathe and replace the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T14:23:12.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-16T14:38:30.207" Score="2" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2003 Toyota Camry.  Its driver seat power track won't move forward as it turns to the right after about 1/4 inch movement and cannot go forward.  However, it does go backwards all the way.  I took it to a Toyota dealer and after spending $100, he told me that I need a new Power tracking system which Toyota does not carry.  It will cost about $1,500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the motor works and there is movement, so something must be wrong in the track, perhaps a loose track.  Please suggest what can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13705" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T16:05:16.507" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T00:58:52.327" Title="Toyota Camry 2003 drive seat won't move forward" Tags="|toyota|power|camry|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21781" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:12:59.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was one wire that could be connected or disconnected from the device, and it had been left connected as default and this caused the not shutting down problem and the device was constantly on. When I disconnected that cable, the problem disappeared, problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12681" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T15:12:59.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:43:56.570" Score="3" ViewCount="5893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 2010 Honda Civic 1.8L and a 2012 Honda Jazz(Philippines) / Fit (USA and Japan) 1.5L. I just purchased a second hand Jazz/Fit about 2 weeks ago and the mileage is 32xxx. Btw we use Kilometers and Liters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon getting the car. The reading is 8.5km/L according to the multi gauge display. So it was okay okay to me but the usual reading that I've researched from other jazz/fit owners was 9-11 km/l on city driving and about 12-14 km/l for highway driving conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was a bit bothered for its fuel consumption so I replaced the engine oil with Honda Lev Fully Synthetic, OEM oil / air filters, Iridium Spark Plugs (Denso), replaced the transmission filter and ATF by Honda. And also I replaced the 4 tires because the tread is about 40-50%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon replacing it I was surprised that I'm getting 7.5km/l on city driving. It actually went down from the 8.5km/l and its supposed to be fuel efficient because I just replaced the needed parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendation or advice that I need to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13706" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T16:15:13.483" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T21:17:14.950" Title="Fuel consumption is bad" Tags="|honda|fuel-consumption|fit|jazz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15790" CreationDate="2015-12-16T16:04:47.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to fit a different size or type of wheel to a car, four things need to be compatible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) - this is the number and distance between the nuts/studs, e.g. 4x100 (4 studs, 100mm diameter). This needs to be the same for both old and new wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Centre bore diameter - the size of the hole in the middle of the wheel. If it's too small, it won't fit over the hub, and if it's too big, it'll be a loose fit - neither are wise...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offset - How far in or out the wheel is from the hub - This doesn't usually need to be exactly the same, but too big a difference will have a bad effect on handling, may cause the tyre to hit the arches, and might not fit over brake calipers etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stud/Nut size - Your problem in this case. Alloy wheels are thicker than steels, so generally need a longer amount of stud. You generally need to have around 1.5x the diameter of the stud engaged with the nut (so about 18mm for a 12mm diameter stud, for example) - if there is less than that you will need to replace the studs with longer ones. You will probably also need new nuts, as it is likely that the chamfer will be different between alloys and steels. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T16:04:47.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23468" CreationDate="2015-12-16T17:16:17.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may try unplugging the battery for about 30 minutes. This will reset the computer. Also, carefully clean your MAF (if so equipped) with electronics cleaner. Do this before you plug your batter back in. The reset will help the computer relearn from factory settings and may improve your gas mileage. Cleaning your MAF is just preventive maintenance which could also help the computer read the correct amount of air intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these two steps fail you, check to see if there is an exhaust leak before the upstream O2 (lambda) sensor. You'd be looking for suet around areas where the exhaust system comes together (such as where the exhaust manifold meets the head on the engine). If you see anything like this, the engine is getting air into the exhaust system, which is giving a false lean condition, which tells the computer to dump more fuel to make up for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check your O2 sensors to see if they are lazy, but with such few miles (KMs) on the clock, I doubt this would be an issue. Lazy O2 sensors can cause the system to dump more fuel as well, as the O2s cannot keep up with the demands and give false readings to the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T17:16:17.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:04:52.810" Score="5" ViewCount="5429" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it OK to use Regular Unleaded Gasoline in a 2005 Lexus RX330?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have used Super but am now using Regular. So far no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T19:00:27.927" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T16:10:11.913" Title="Using regular unleaded gasoline in a Lexus RX330" Tags="|gasoline|lexus|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23505" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:15:36.560" Score="5" ViewCount="3652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed something that seems a bit strange to me.  Many times when I let off the gas the ECU drops out of closed loop into open loop for about a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwi4M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwi4M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see on the graph that this happens both when coming off a rev, and when coming off a steady, high rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a 98 Mazda 626 2 liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T15:40:29.973" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T20:19:31.170" Title="Letting Off Gas Forces Open Loop" Tags="|electronic-control-module|closed-loop|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:57:35.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal behavior. Closed loop is present during steady-speed operation, else it defaults to open loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/TechNotes/Tech-3.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; offers a well-summarized explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Closed Loop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An average ECU using a narrowband sensor will generally only use the&#xA;  lambda sensor's output during two specific conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;during idle, ie. when the engine is under no load apart from keeping itself running&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;during part-load conditions (which we usually term 'cruising speed') where the engine is keeping the car at a constant speed. These two&#xA;  conditions account for the majority of the car's operating time&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Open Loop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ECU will generally ignore the lambda sensor's output during three&#xA;  further conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when the car is accelerating - the ECU will spent much of its time deliberately enriching the mixture to avoid hesitation and to provide&#xA;  extra power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when decelerating or 'engine braking' (which we usually term 'on the over-run'), when most ECU's will shut off the fuel completely to aid&#xA;  economy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that of cold starting, where the ECU deliberately runs the engine rich all the time to promote quick starting and ease cold-running.&#xA;  Once everything is up to temperature, normal operation will resume&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:57:35.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23471" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:57:55.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lexus recommends a 91 Research Octane Number (RON).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is additional information related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;octane ratings and standards worldwide.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline has chemical components that have anti-knock components.  Anti-knock components elude to chemicals within the gasoline that prevent the fuel from pre-igniting under compression before the spark fires.  If your vehicle starts to pre-ignite it will sound like there are marbles bouncing around in your engine or a loud rattling.  The sound is generated by combustion occurring too early in the combustion process as the piston is rising on it's compression stroke.  Due to compression and lower octane the fuel charge initiates combustion early and the expanding gas is working against the piston upstroke.  The sound of rattling is the piston slapping in the cylinder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this begins to occur you would want to switch up to a higher octane rating.  Increased temperatures with Summer could increase the chances of knocking with the lower octane rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:57:55.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-16T19:23:27.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to calculate the tyre pressure of a car from OBD parameters. I don't want to take TPMS or any custom PID for this.&#xA;One of the indirect method is the calculate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((w_LF + w_RR) - (w_RF + w_LR)) / ((w_LF+w_RR+w_RF+w_LR)/4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where w_LF is the angular velocity of the left-front wheel.&#xA;Now the problem I am facing is how to calculate w_LF, w_RR, w_LR, w_RF and how to find what is the actual angular velocity at that instant while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to point that there is a reduction in tire pressure by this method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="12334" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T19:34:51.023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:19:18.080" Title="Calculate tyre pressure of a car from OBD parameters" Tags="|tires|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-12-16T19:27:19.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of several advantages of having two independent motors, one for each wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;no need for a diff/gearbox&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's technology allows electric motors to be attached directly to the wheel, so a two-motor configuration would do away with the need for a mechanical differential or gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less components = less manufacturing cost, so it is a compelling configuration for Tesla to consider, which they would likely trade-off against the additional control complexity and cost of the additional motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;packaging - more floor space is freed up&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two axles can become much smaller in the absence of a diff/gearbox, giving back more floor space back to the cabin interior and boot/trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;independent control - torque-vectoring&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure the control systems would be more complex, but the mechanical limitations of a diff would no longer be present, meaning that the right amount of torque can be delivered to each wheel independent of the other. This can make the vehicle handle fast corners much better than a RWD with a mechanical diff.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;more efficient transmission of power to the wheels&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no gearbox or diff in the middle, which means there are no parasitic mechanical losses. This equates to more power at the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T14:56:25.267" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:56:25.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23471" CreationDate="2015-12-16T19:28:46.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreeing with @DucatiKiller here for the most part. There are a couple of things of note though ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason your engine seems to be running fine is because the computer will detect the &quot;pinging&quot; before you ever will through the use of a &lt;em&gt;knock sensor&lt;/em&gt;. When the ECU detects pinging, it will start pulling timing (retarding your timing) until it stops pinging or it gets to a preset limit. This allows the engine to run without any damage to the engine. What happens when this occurs, though, is by pulling the timing, it is also detuning your car. It is making it so it isn't running as efficiently or as strongly as it was designed to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice a drop in performance and a drop in fuel economy by using the lesser octane. As long as the ECU can keep pulling timing when encountering the pinging, you'll not have any detrimental effects to the car mechanically. Once it reaches the pinging level where it's not allowed to pull anymore timing, you'll start seeing the mechanical effects, which could be anything from something minor to complete engine destruction (and I'm not be melodramatic when I say that). You can easily push past this point by rapid acceleration (stomping on the gas pedal or going to Wide Open Throttle) or even during climbing a steep incline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it comes down to is this: Use the lower octane fuel at your own risk. Know you are risking the long term health of your vehicle by using it. Also realize you will not have the performance or fuel economy you are used to with the Super.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T19:28:46.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23475" CreationDate="2015-12-16T19:48:14.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This approach is fundamentally flawed for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's a circular definition here; to know angular speed you need to know wheel radius, but you're trying to infer the wheel radius from the angular speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any OBD-II PID which will tell you wheel radius.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if such a PID exists, how will you cater for vehicles where a custom wheel size has been fitted?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;code&gt;v = rω&lt;/code&gt; to work for each wheel, you need a measurement of speed for each wheel. This data might be available if the vehicle is fitted with ABS and has 4 wheel speed sensors. Don't assume that all vehicles are like this though; some vehicles rely on just a single speed sensor embedded in the transmission housing to measure vehicle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The formula shown is an attempt to evaluate differences in angular speed that are normalized by the average of the four readings. It might be an acceptable qualitative check, but it wouldn't tell you which wheel is low on pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T22:19:18.080" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:19:18.080" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23466" CreationDate="2015-12-17T00:58:52.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you dropped coins on the floor and one of them got caught in the track.  Or maybe it's some other foreign object.  There should be 4 bolts holding your seat in place.  Remove the bolts, disconnect the connection switches underneath the seat and place the seat on top of the rear seats.  I've never tried what I'm about to tell you now but I myself would consider linking the seat switch with the connector on the seat floor by using 2 long wires.  one for the positive side of the switch and one for the negative side-- so that you might be able to get power to your track for testing purposes while the seat is NOT in it's position.  perhaps you'll be able to see the movement and locate the blockage much easier without the seat in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T00:58:52.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2015-12-17T01:05:17.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you dropped coins on the floor and one of them got caught in the track. Or maybe it's some other foreign object. There should be 4 bolts holding your seat in place. Remove the bolts, disconnect the connection switches underneath the seat and place the seat on top of the rear seats. I've never tried what I'm about to tell you now but I myself would consider linking the seat switch with the connector on the seat floor by using 2 long wires. one for the positive side of the switch and one for the negative side-- so that you might be able to get power to your track for testing purposes while the seat is NOT in it's position. perhaps you'll be able to see the movement and locate, and remedy the blockage much easier without the seat in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T01:05:17.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16134" CreationDate="2015-12-17T01:25:37.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first O2 sensor was introduced in 1976 on a Volvo 240.  Your 1990 Toyota Pick-up truck should have at least one o2 sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image to give you a general idea of location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WGM3i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WGM3i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T05:38:27.000" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T05:38:27.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22570" CreationDate="2015-12-17T04:19:28.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When rotating a 2 or 4 stroke motor there is an illusion of sticking between TDC and BDC.  The rings are reaching their maximum friction coefficient at that time do to maximum distance traveled within the bore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it may seem as thought there is a sticking issue, in actuality it is an innate feature of a two or four stroke ICE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T04:19:28.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9890" CreationDate="2015-12-17T06:13:13.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;7F = general fail response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 = Service Not Supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the meaning. It's odd that it was working before.  Ultimately, it could be the device that you are using to read the codes is defective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:13:13.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16833" CreationDate="2015-12-17T06:25:26.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical cause of this issue is the headgasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headgasket has oil and coolant that pass through it from the engine block to the cylinder head.  If the head gasket fails between an oil galley and a coolant galley you can get the mixture of oil and coolant in your radiator.  As well, the issue can manifest itself in your engine block where you can have oil and coolant mix in that area of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause of the failed head gasket could be a situation where the engine was overheated.  This can warp a cylinder head.  If that is the case, a shop with appropriate equipment could take a few thousands of an inch of the head and make it flat in order for it to have a good seal against the engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to repair your vehicle, you will need to replace the head gasket by removing your cylinder head, replacing the gasket and putting the head back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a trivial repair.  It requires quite a bit of work and knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T06:47:09.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:47:09.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14778" CreationDate="2015-12-17T06:33:59.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;4.5 liters of semi-synthetic 10w40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:33:59.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18178" CreationDate="2015-12-17T06:42:56.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the official Piaggio service manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://absolutelyscooters.net/manuals/Piaggio_MP3250_Service_Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Piaggio MP3 250 Shop Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T06:42:56.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16216" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:13:13.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the symptoms described, there seems to be trouble with sending current to the starter motor. Here are the top suspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Malfunctioning starter relay switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could well be that the solenoid inside relay is sticking, preventing the switch on the starter side from closing and turning the engine over. This would explain why sometimes you do not hear the starter relay click (complete silence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ignition switch isn't completing the circuit to the starter relay, the car won't start. I'm a little skeptical that this is an issue given that the dashboard lights come on when the key is in the 'On' position but it is a distinct possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19733/675&quot;&gt;Failing starter motor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T07:13:13.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2015-12-17T07:40:57.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the specifics of your Honda, here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot-starts need the fuel rail to be pressurized. If the fuel pump is unable to build up sufficient pressure then the engine will struggle to run. Have the fuel rail pressure tested to confirm that fuel rail pressure is up to spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that lack of fuel pressure does not guarantee that the fuel pump is bad.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @mikes said in his comment, a bad fuel pump relay could be preventing the fuel pump from activating and pressurizing the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be that a fuel injector is stuck open by fine debris which is preventing pressure build-up, or a fine crack in the fuel rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the engine starts over after a couple of minutes though, it is likely that the hot relay is at fault more than a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T07:40:57.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23499" CreationDate="2015-12-17T08:04:01.640" Score="4" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting my self a new car, and car dealer is making me choose from different tints. Now I have been searching online what's a good tint color and shade. Along the research, I've read a few people having multiple layers of tint, and now I'm asking; Is there any sense to people applying 2 layers of tint on purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean is, if they're trying to get it darker, why not get a thicker on in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question to answer: Does it make sense in terms of durability/effectiveness to have 2 layers of tint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T08:23:24.410" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T15:37:14.180" Title="Does haveing multiple layers of tint make sense?" Tags="|window|tint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-17T08:32:30.960" Score="11" ViewCount="137019" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a seemingly simple problem - I noticed that the temperature gauge of my mother's 2004 Opel Meriva 1.7CDTI won't ever climb above minimum. I checked the OBD readings to see if it was a defective coolant temperature sensor but it showed that the car struggles to reach 70 °C even when driven hard, usual warm temperature is ~65 °C. A cold car's coolant temperature matches the outside temperature, so I assume the sensor is doing good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thought would be a faulty thermostat - coolant is always allowed to go through the radiator and does not let the engine reach proper temperature. So I changed it to a new one. And you know what that did? Nothing, same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know the problem appeared gradually. At first it reached operating temperature fine, a while later the temperature wouldn't climb above 80 °C, then it would climb above 70 °C (minimum on the temperature scale) only in longer trips, and now it doesn't at all. I don't think anyone has been tampering with the cooling system, this problem progressed naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One strange thing I noticed is that neither the old or new thermostat had an o-ring gasket, but it seemed to fit into it's place perfectly, so I assumed it to be normal, designed to fit in place with no gasket. Even though I've only seen thermostats with large o-rings sealing the edge before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone have any idea what's going on? Is coolant getting around the thermostat somehow? Could the temperature sensor fail in such a subtle way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 10 minutes of warming up the top radiator hose and the radiator itself feel slightly warm, so I assume some coolant is getting around that thermostat somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tested the old thermostat to see if there was anything wrong with it at all. It's normally closed and submerging it into boiling water opens it up, so I assume it is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there probably should have been a gasket for the thermostat housing. Very small amount of silicone sealant was used instead of it before, you could see pieces of the old silicone instant gasket on the old thermostat. I went the same way, but now am in doubt. I don't assume this missing gasket could somehow create a way for the coolant around thermostat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRjYh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRjYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This was missing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE 2:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the (unbelievably hard to buy) gasket in, nothing has changed. I also noticed that the new thermostat has very slight gaps even when closed (seems larger in the image than actually is). It seems that they are a result of manufacturing imperfections, must be a poor quality part. I wouldn't believe that these would be sufficient to keep the engine temperature down below 70 °C by far, though. I am out of ideas here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC3AQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC3AQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slight gaps in the closed thermostat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE 3:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally the electrical fan turns on, which is strange behavior considering the operating temperature is far from being reached. I doubt this is the cause, but it certainly does not help. Since the radiator warms up slightly before it should I'm thinking of covering it up to see if without proper airflow the car will reach higher temperatures. The only thing besides the thermostat supposed to be holding back the coolant is the thermostat housing, so it is my next suspect. Didn't notice anything unusual the last two times I took it off, but I'm really out of ideas here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T12:44:13.290" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T13:57:38.440" Title="Car won't reach operating temperature" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|sensor|thermostat|temperature|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23540" CreationDate="2015-12-17T09:16:55.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone give me a formula to calculate Oil and Fuel pressure of a car engine?&#xA;Consider a small passenger car. I have information like Total distance travelled, speed, rpm, MAF, MAP, Intake Air Temp, fuel economy etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I googled and googled, but ALAS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:08:58.300" Title="Oil pressure and fuel pressure formula" Tags="|fuel-system|oil|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2015-12-17T09:43:33.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem with my Pajero (1992 Turbo 2.5D). Replaced the battery and the problem went away for a couple of days but started occurring again, especially on cold starts early in the mornings. One thing that bugged me was that if I attempted to push start it, the starter suddenly fired up just fine if I killed the engine and attempted to start it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That got me going that a sudden jerk seems to solve the starter issue everytime. I disconnected the battery and took out the self-starter switch and opened it up. The armature coil was completely covered with carbon and there was no prominent contact point left. It seems that a sudden jerk would somehow disperse some of the carbon layer and starter would fire up, but most of the time that was not the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution :&lt;/strong&gt; Try cleaning the contact points with some sand paper. Avoid using a too fine one so as to not ruin the coil itself. For more details, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://nexgenbikes.com/site/2014/04/28/why-and-how-often-you-should-service-your-self-starter-motor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link here&lt;/a&gt;. Its got some pictures as to how to clean it up yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T09:43:33.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23491" CreationDate="2015-12-17T10:09:30.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to calculate them - I even have no idea how you could think so, or what you want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of fuel (gasoline) injected into the motor has to be controlled carefully to achieve an optimal combustion. So there are sensors to measure several parameters, which allow to determine how much fuel has to be injected. RPM, MAP/MAF, temperature are among those. So, you could also calculate the current fuel consumption from those values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil pressure does not need to be controlled, so it is usually not measured. It has to be above a certain threshold to guarantee a sufficient lubrication, so most cars just have a switch sensor with that threshold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Either pressure is OK, or it is NOT OK.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's also no other way to &lt;em&gt;calculate&lt;/em&gt; oil pressure. Oil pressure depends on the pump, resistance of all the oil pipes as well as on the viscosity of the oil - which depends on type, temperature, age and e.g. contamination by fuel. The only correct way to go is to measure the pressure itself. But as said, most cars don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fuel pressure, it's similar. There are different types of fuel supply with different pressure requirements: Carburetor, direct an manifold fuel injection. However, the exact pressure needed depends on the state of the art of the injector system. So, each system uses a different pressure. For some systems, the actual pressure is important, so they may be able to measure it, but most probably they won't broadcast this via OBDII. &#xA;Also, there is no way to calculate fuel pressure - from what parameters should it depend?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So again: If the car doesn't tell you the value, you don't get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T10:09:30.493" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23490" CreationDate="2015-12-17T11:00:24.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermostat would have been my first guess too. It doesn't need a sealing ring, the housing will slightly clamp it when you put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is entirely possible that the temperature sensor has 'drifted' and is reading lower than the genuine temperature. I have experienced this more than once in my own cars. It's worth as try as they're usually neither expensive nor difficult to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To verify the actual engine temperature, check if the top hose to the radiator is hot after a drive. Thermostats normally open at around 80-90°C and the hose will only get hot once the thermostat has opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T11:00:24.050" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18088" CreationDate="2015-12-17T12:00:14.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem affected my 2014 Forester XT.  I followed Badpirate's advise except that I didn't short the two terminals: taking the positive lead off is too much work.  I removed the negative lead and left it unplugged for 5 min.  This had the same effect of resetting the PRG without losing all my radio station presets.  The liftgate now opens using the keyfob or inside button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13730" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T12:00:14.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23457" CreationDate="2015-12-17T12:32:32.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem on some Ford Focus engines and is caused by a split air hose (it could be a crank case breather hose).  The split will open up while driving, then stay open for a while when the throttle is closed, which causes the same sort of symptoms I believe you are experiencing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T12:32:32.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2015-12-17T14:42:02.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat up is probably due to an air pocket inside the cooling system on the engine side. You may try parking the car on an incline with the front pointing uphill, then see if you can add more coolant. You can also see if there is a coolant bleed valve as @Lathejockey81 suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T14:42:02.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23489" CreationDate="2015-12-17T15:37:14.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does not make sense because you can get tint in ever darker shades. If you want the ultimate in darkness, get some limo tint. Having multiple layers on the window is just asking the outer layer to show wear signs due to the extra thickness. If this happens you'll get tares and discoloration of your tint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The extra cost of putting more tint on when you could do it more easily with one layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting the extra tint on your vehicle may make it a prime target for the police. I don't know the legalities for you in the Philippines, but here in the States, most have limits with which you can darken your windows. Before you tint your windows, make sure you are within your area's legal restrictions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T15:37:14.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23501" CreationDate="2015-12-17T16:24:28.410" Score="5" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please see this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bloomberg.com/features/2015-george-hotz-self-driving-car/&quot;&gt;http://www.bloomberg.com/features/2015-george-hotz-self-driving-car/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;George Hotz claimed he used CAN to control the car by software. I can understand that accelerating and braking can be electrically controlled as cruise control is using this. But is a stock Honda Acura ILX built to have steering also electrically controlled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12553" LastEditorUserId="12553" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T16:48:47.097" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T10:19:55.447" Title="Can steering be electrically controlled?" Tags="|power-steering|steering|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-06-02T12:38:25.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23500" CreationDate="2015-12-17T16:38:35.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, we don't only have cruise control. We also have cars which can park the car automatically in a parking spot. The driver just sits there and monitors the car, may be, he is responsible for gas and brake, but the car actuates the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you just need to know how to use this for your own projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T16:38:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2015-12-17T17:47:28.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, check the fuel pump relay first. Then have a mechanic test the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It is located behind the timing belt and requires removal of the accessory drives and timing covers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q71/GhostAccord/Odds-n-sodds/TDC-CKP-Sensor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See it here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T17:47:28.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-17T19:26:51.423" Score="16" ViewCount="14546" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; cat!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akcbv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/akcbv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kitten&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalytic converters - or &quot;cats&quot; - have a nasty habit of failing with age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the symptoms associated with a cat that's gone bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tests that could definitively confirm that a cat has gone bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T20:17:08.297" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T19:38:49.740" Title="How can I tell if I have bad cats?" Tags="|exhaust|catalytic-converter|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23503" CreationDate="2015-12-17T19:26:51.423" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cats can stop functioning in a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;physical deformation due to high temperatures&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tf6h8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tf6h8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Melted catalyst&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, the catalyst melts at temperatures above 2100 °F (1200 °C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of a meltdown, the catalyst gets permanently damaged, at which point it doesn't scrub the nastiness out of the exhaust gases and serves as a major exhaust restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;inhibition of the chemical reaction, usually due to fouling of the catalyst inside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unburnt fuel can accumulate in the cats over time, which inhibits the chemical reaction and increases the restrictiveness of the exhaust. The clogging leads to bigger problems related to engine inoperability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A danger associated with built-up hydrocarbons is that if a spark finds its way into the cat, it will turn &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;into a secondary combustion chamber, destroying the catalyst&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Testing cats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to assess the health of a cat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Measure temps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catalytic reaction is exothermic in nature, so the exit side the cat should be hotter than the inlet side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23520/675&quot;&gt;Paulster2's answer&lt;/a&gt; outlines a way to test for the presence of the chemical reaction by measuring temperature across the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If exhaust side isn't hotter by 200 °F (93 °C), the reaction isn't taking place and the cat isn't doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Consult the lambdas&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;big caveat&lt;/strong&gt; with this approach is that it assumes the lambda sensors in question are healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In narrowband setups, the voltage output of the pre-cat lambda sensor should flit between 0.1 V (lean) and 0.9 V (rich). Since the chemical reaction inside the cat consumes oxygen, the post-cat lambda should show a stable signal which corresponds to a rich condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below summarizes the expected results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt62w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt62w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lambda probe test&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Check for restrictions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clogging usually occurs due to the accumulation of unburnt hydrocarbons, which is often a sign of bigger problems with engine operability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clogged catalytic converters result in a very high engine backpressure, which results in noticeable loss of power and the engine's refusal to run at higher RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very conclusive test shown by &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TxP8SOpOG7Y?t=15m44s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; involves measuring pressure drop across the catalytic converter. It helps to have pre- and post-cat lambda sensors for this test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;unscrew the lambda sensors that sandwich the suspect cat&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;attach a fitting into the bung that allows for a pressure gauge or vacuum gauge to be plumbed in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video, Matt uses some pipe with a 22 mm thread cut into one end, but even a cork could do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;measure pressure drop. There should be minimal pressure drop across the cat. Any value greater than 2 psi would be a strong indication of clogging in the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt; -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the post-cat exhaust pressure is almost atmospheric, it is possible to do this with just the pre-cat O2 sensor bung, with one caveat that restrictions may be caused by other downstream elements such as mufflers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Use an OBD-II scan tool&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD-II protocol assigns &lt;kbd&gt;P0420&lt;/kbd&gt; and &lt;kbd&gt;P0430&lt;/kbd&gt; for Bank 1 and Bank 2 cat efficiencies respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact logic by which the engine computer sets these codes will vary between manufacturers and models, but they will invariably involve assessing the signal coming from the pre-cat and post-cat lambda sensors, as outlined in &lt;kbd&gt;2&lt;/kbd&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, this assumes fully-functional lambda probes, so a faulty lambda sensor may trigger a false-positive &lt;kbd&gt;P0420&lt;/kbd&gt; code.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/38438/675&quot;&gt;Propane test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T19:38:49.740" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2015-12-17T20:19:31.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The early OBDII engine control systems did this often. They show open loop on decel because they turn off the injectors for a bit on snap throttle close. Newer designs, usually with auto throttles, remain in fuel control. The auto throttle closes the throttle more slowly, keep the injectors on and the system remains in fuel control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no rule in ODB that requires one method over the other, it is up to the engineering design team and they are juggling issues of engine design, emission regs and the marketing dept. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBDII regulations change often, major changes were made in 2004 and 2010. OEM's  controller software varies from engine to engine and year to year, they are highly varied and in all cases proprietary. The only way to understand normal sensor and actuator behavior is to scan and scope normal systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T20:19:31.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23490" CreationDate="2015-12-17T21:05:35.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the coolant temp is lower than the thermostat set point indicates that the thermostat isn't doing what it's supposed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have verified that the thermostat fine by testing it in boiling water, the only logical explanation is that coolant flow is (at least partially) bypassing the thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That thermostat gasket is essential in preventing the bypassing of flow. In the absence of it, I would not be surprised to see the behavior which you've observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:05:35.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23510" CreationDate="2015-12-17T21:07:08.057" Score="5" ViewCount="10199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do about my inaccurate fuel gauge? Today it was at the bottom of the red zone, and I put in 9.5 litres and it went up to half a tank, but the tank is 42 litres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an OPCOM device, but I don't know how to read the actual amount of fuel in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T01:42:47.723" Title="Inaccurate fuel gauge" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|opel|gauges|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23490" CreationDate="2015-12-18T00:55:45.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;some cars are made with the thermostat housing built just like the one you have.  it does not require a gasket.  it seats in just like that.  And as far as coolant flow--  If you are not overheating: You are getting coolant flow and your water pump is working fine.  I would check into your o2 sensors, MAS Air Flow Sensors, etc.  You can do a Probe Light Test but I think you should opt for the purchase of your very own cheap vehicle scanner, $50. at your local Auto parts Store. so that you can diagnose your own vehicle whenever you need to.  The cheap scanner will give you the error code but will likely not give you the remedy for the problem.  but to help you along I am sending you a link to an OBD decoder page.  This page can help you with the malfunction description according to the error code you get from your scanner.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://obdii.pro/en/model/honda&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://obdii.pro/en/model/honda&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T00:55:45.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21841" CreationDate="2015-12-18T01:09:37.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of guessing, you should first do a continuity test with a Probe Light Tester. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this video to learn more about using a Probe Light Tester.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjCjmwUxUSU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjCjmwUxUSU&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not sure about your skills then just go to your local auto parts store and ask if they will scan your vehicle for you.  this will get you the error code for what's wrong with your vehicle and it may also tell you the direct malfunction as well as the suggested remedy for your situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T01:44:14.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T01:44:14.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2015-12-18T01:25:24.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The float lever in your fuel sending unit may have a built up residue on it preventing the float from rising and falling properly.  I believe your vehicle has an internal fuel sending unit within the fuel tank.  and I believe that your access point for this fuel sending unit is from within the vehicle under the rear seat.  This float lever on your fuel pump assembly can be cleaned or moved by hand (up and down) to help break up any residue that may be hindering it's movement.  In this case you only need to fiddle with the float and nothing else.  This information is based only on the information you gave about your fuel guage and not about your fuel flow.  there is a bolt in the center and behind your back seat. remove that bolt to remove the seat.  unscrew the fuel unit shield, disconnect electrical connectors &amp;amp; fuel lines.  remove the sending units mounting screws or bolts and slowly pull the unit up and out far enough so that you can reach the float and just start playing with it to gain free movement and then re-install in reverse order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T01:42:47.723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T01:42:47.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23522" CreationDate="2015-12-18T01:43:31.570" Score="2" ViewCount="2230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Honda Civic Coupe Manual Transmission has it's airbag light constantly on.&#xA;Honda just did a recall on them for the Takata airbag issue about 3 months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned how to get the error code from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=636707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=636707&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to me it looks like the error code is 2-3, but that doesn't exist in their form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the video of the error code: &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/SU2TdFcFbtFYNxzW6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://goo.gl/photos/SU2TdFcFbtFYNxzW6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe someone can tell me if I read it incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13735" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T06:10:38.397" Title="Honda Civic 2004 - Airbag Error code" Tags="|honda|civic|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23404" CreationDate="2015-12-18T01:48:24.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short: no.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pass smog in California (and other CARB adopting states) the catalytic converter must be the one from the dealership or one that is in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/PartsSearchTool/CatalystSearchTool.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database&quot;&gt;Aftermarket Catalytic Converter Database&lt;/a&gt;. The catalytic converter must be one of those listed for the Toyota Prius, but unfortunately there is none for the Prius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now the only possibility is to try other solutions like using a catalytic converter cleaning additive, washing the catalytic converter or make a tune up in the hope that one of those will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those curious with the end of my ordeal, after months of poke and hope, I changed spark plugs, poured Cataclean and more recently poured Seafoam and it worked! At least long enough to me go to smog and have the car certified. After 3 miles it came back again :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2018-05-18T17:34:00.300" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T17:34:00.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21621" CreationDate="2015-12-18T01:51:44.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the O2 sensor goes bad you can get a fuel smell without any leaks.  Have your car scanned at your local auto parts store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you any error codes for your vehicle malfunctions and can also tell you what the specific problem is and what parts(s) you may need to replace or repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T02:27:30.270" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:27:30.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14926" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:03:25.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you noticed any oil leaks under the car?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that your oil level sensor seal is leaking and you will not see it because it is accessed under the car, probably higher up, past the oil pan and you smell the burning oil but can't find it because it burns off too quickly.  You'll have to wait till the car cools down in order to check the area for oil leakage as well as part replacement.  You should locate the Oil Level Sensor in your vehicle and check this first for leakage.  And since it's a 2002; I would do an engine flush to loosen any gummed up crap inside the motor and then add new fresh (manufacture specified) oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T02:07:45.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:07:45.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9022" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:10:22.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your engine sets overnight your oil gets colder and becomes just a bit thicker and does not move as freely as when it is warm.  When the engine is warmed up the oil is softened and gives a better more settled reading as to the actual amount of oil in your motor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:10:22.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:17:29.610" Score="4" ViewCount="2553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two months ago, I had a problem on intermittent no start and no crank in my Mazda 323f 2000 AT model. When I brought it to the shop, they found out that the problem was the starter and that the brush needs to be replaced. After replacing the brush and re-installing the starter, the problem goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am having the same problem again. When I turn the key, I see the lights on the dash board (bright so I am assuming this is no battery problem) but no cranking happens and of course the car won't start. Also, I noticed that the key got stuck for a brief moment and I cannot remove it in the keyhole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried turning the key again and to my surprise, it started at the first crank.&#xA;Now after a few minutes, I tried turning off the engine (I was able to remove the key this time).&#xA;And then another minute I tried starting it again and the same no crank, no start happened. I tried starting it again without removing the key and it started in the first crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can give me advice on what to look at, diagnosis I can try to get to the problem, that would be great. Do I need to return to the shop who did the brush replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T04:09:03.900" Title="Intermittent no start and no crank on Mazda 323 2000 AT" Tags="|starting|mazda|starter|mazda-323f|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23769" CreationDate="2015-12-18T02:21:57.983" Score="7" ViewCount="2068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a friend with a '88 YJ.  He wants us to tackle an alignment job on it.  It's pulling to the right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see the rear axle is not aligned and tire rubs on one side.  It looks like it might be as much as 1&quot; off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the forums and have been bitterly abused by them in that no one agrees on how to do it at your home.  I know it can be done and done successfully but it probably requires patience and good home DIY alignment tool/methodology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any sound advice on accomplishing this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone believe this is an exercise in futility?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind, I do almost everything home brew.  I'm not concerned with failing, doing it, failing and then nailing it.  I enjoy the process of learning through experience and have done body off restores.  I've just never nailed the alignment piece.  This seems like a good opportunity to be successful where I've failed in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm interested in the tools, the method and the gotcha's.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T04:55:38.160" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T11:06:13.177" Title="1988 Jeep Wrangler - How do I do a DIY alignment?" Tags="|suspension|jeep|alignment|wrangler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23503" CreationDate="2015-12-18T04:02:52.533" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even before a cat plugs, you can test your cat using a laser thermometer. You are looking to compare the inlet and outlet temps on your cat. Do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the engine up to operating temperature (at least ten minutes so the cat should be fully warm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check and record the inlet temperature. You're looking to measure the temperature right where the pipe goes into the cat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the outlet temperature in the same manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the inlet temp is around the same temp or higher than the outlet, the cat is bad. A good running cat could have an outlet temp at least a hundred degrees F hotter than the inlet (should possibly be closer to 200). If you aren't seeing the temperature difference, it's most likely bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Before you go believing the cat is bad due to an OBD-II check light (P0420), do this test to see if it's actually the cat or if it's the O2 sensor. The computer is fooled quite often by a bad sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T04:02:52.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23525" CreationDate="2015-12-18T05:19:46.510" Score="3" ViewCount="16625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the situation is as described in the title, the oil light comes on intermittently, but when I check the oil it appears full. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13736" LastActivityDate="2020-09-13T03:22:31.027" Title="2001 VW Jetta 1.8T oil light on, but oil level is full" Tags="|oil|jetta|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23511" CreationDate="2015-12-18T06:10:38.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read that flash pattern as 3-2. Three longs and two shorts.  If that is correct the code is for &quot;Increased resistance in the drivers seat belt tensioner&quot; This is a explosive bolt in the seat belt reel that allows a spring to tighten the seat belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a part that make me nervous to work on. When triggered, these go off with quite a bang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge this is not involved in the Takata airbag inflater recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T06:10:38.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23503" CreationDate="2015-12-18T06:37:42.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an exhaust restriction is suspected a pressure gauge pre-catatlyst works just fine.  My maximum cutoff pressure is 1.25 psi but most good systems will be well below that. The intake manifold vacuum is also a good clue. If it is not close to the idle reading at 3000 rpm suspect an exhaust restriction. In the case of a restriction the vacuum reading will be lower than normal. Also, the sound coming from the intake changes to a louder, deeper sound upon revving the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T06:37:42.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2015-12-18T07:19:02.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine turned out to be tie rod ends and hub bearings. It had a clicking sound when I hit the breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13737" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T17:44:28.033" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:44:28.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23521" CreationDate="2015-12-18T07:37:39.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light comes on when the oil pressure is low. If the oil level is fine, I would say you have either a faulty &lt;strong&gt;oil pressure switch&lt;/strong&gt; (or a bad contact to it) or a dying &lt;strong&gt;oil pump&lt;/strong&gt;. I would hope for the faulty switch if I were you - it's a cheap fix. If the light is intermittent then the switch is also much more likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the light only turns on on idle and goes off when you increase the rpm, then the pump is a suspect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T08:04:34.713" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T08:04:34.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23521" CreationDate="2015-12-18T08:13:30.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a high mileage engine, in addition to a worn oil pump or a faulty oil pressure sensor, the fault could also be caused by worn bearings within the engine.  If the bearings are worn, more oil can flow through them than is designed to, which can lead to a low oil pressure.  How may miles/km has the engine done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T08:13:30.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8470" CreationDate="2015-12-18T11:32:39.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, as it turns out, the &quot;whining&quot; noise, was actually caused by a leaking hose (ventilation from the valve cover), annoying and hard to find, one of my friends nailed it right away. Thanks a lot for your help after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4297" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T11:32:39.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23516" CreationDate="2015-12-18T13:39:41.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms do sound like a problem with the ignition switch.  If you are confident, you should be able to remove the cowling around the steering column and get access to the electrical switch on the back of the steering lock.  You should then be able to unclip the switch from the steering lock mechanism and turn it with a screwdriver and start the engine.   You may be able to clean the switch with some switch cleaner or replace it if necessary. Don't attempt to drive the car with the steering lock still on though.  Seeing as your key got stuck, it may be necessary to replace the complete steering lock assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T13:39:41.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23491" CreationDate="2015-12-18T13:54:04.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't seem to be telling us why you want to know the car fuel pressure so it's hard to give you good advice but it also seems you have some misgivings about how a car actually works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a car starts after sitting overnight it is running in open loop mode because the oxygen sensor needs to be hot to give a good reading. The oxygen sensor is what closes the loop in the control system because it gives direct feedback on whether the correct amount of fuel has been added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In open loop the car uses a multi dimensional look up table. The look up table accounts for RPM, intake air temperature, intake air flow, engine coolant temperature, load, barometric pressure, just to name a few. This look up table then gives the car the necessary amount of fuel to add to each cylinder. This look up table is painstakingly generated by the manufacture in a special engine dynamometer. This dynamometer can literally control every aspect of engine operation; load, coolant temperature, engine temperature, fuel pressure, etc... The dynamometer can also test the exhaust stream for the standard 5 gasses related to emissions. With this dynamometer engineers meticulously analyze every point in the look up table compensating it for everything they can think of, like the range of allowable fuel pressure. The values in the look up table are generally mid to worst case scenarios. For example if the fuel pressure is at the low end of the allowable scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the oxygen sensor gets hot and starts giving a reading, that reading is used to verify that the correct amount of fuel is added and compensate for when it's not. This is reflected in the fuel trim numbers. When the sensor sees a rich mixture when compared to the open loop look up table it will take fuel away resulting in negative fuel trim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the car already has a fuel pressure sensor, the fuel pressure is compensated directly into the look up table and does not require calculation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theoretically&lt;/strong&gt; I repeat &lt;strong&gt;Theoretically&lt;/strong&gt; by comparing the delivered amount of fuel in closed loop to the open loop look up table you can infer how far away from the optimal fuel pressure you are. This depends on too many variables to truly be accurate. You need to know what that pressure that the engineers compensated the table for. The engine has to be in perfect running order. The injectors can't be even 1% plugged or your calculation would be off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also notice how i didn't mention oil pressure in there at all or whatsoever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:48:50.750" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:48:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:14:46.750" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear this sound when running alongside curbs or concrete walls with RPMs below 2000.  I suspect it's a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, and intend to replace this in the near future.  When I try to locate the source of the sound with the hood open and the engine idling, I cannot pinpoint any leak, possibly because of all the other noises under the hood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this sound be other than a leaking exhaust manifold gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13740" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:12:51.997" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:52:10.573" Title="Is a chuffing sound from a 1999 Saab 9-3 sign of an exhaust leak?" Tags="|exhaust|leak|saab|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12934" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:45:18.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the ignition switch needs to be replaced. Moving the steering wheel from side to side apparently is enough to get it to make enough contact to work. It will fail sooner than later. Have a mechanic look into it. This is a safety issue because the car could very well start turning itself off while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:45:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:50:52.267" Score="4" ViewCount="9963" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn on ac after a while a mist starts coming out and I have a leak under dash  for about a month now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13741" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T16:52:50.713" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:52:50.713" Title="Mist coming out vent and water leaking under dash" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21223" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:54:17.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad catalytic converter. They tend to plug up and block the exhaust. This would explain why the engine will not rev. Test it by removing the bolts that hold it in place and run the engine. The difference will be noticed immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad ignition distributor. The inner winding could have shorted. Remove the cap and rotor and inspect for small pieces of winding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T14:59:18.453" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:59:18.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23534" CreationDate="2015-12-18T15:59:36.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blocked drain pipe below the A/C evaporator in the passenger compartment would cause this.  Directly beneath the dash underneath the car you will probably find a couple of open-ended pipes that are meant to drain condensation from the A/C system.  These are probably blocked so the condensation is building up and leaking into the passenger compartment.  Use a drinking straw or something similar to poke the pipes clear, don't use anything sharp or hard that could damage the A/C internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T15:59:36.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2015-12-18T16:19:19.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no clear advantages on the production vehicle mentioned. The whole process of producing the vehicle is not taken into account. Imagine having to build a vehicle with the two motors instead of one. You'd have twice the amount of motors (and supporting equipment) to build, service, diagnose, and replace. Then comes the issue of driving dynamics. Without a differential you would have to not only split the torque but also control how much of it reaches the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you also think about the effect of the torque twisting the chassis? The car would need to have the motors running in opposite directions to avoid issues with the chassis twisting itself into a pretzel. Running the motors in opposite directions means you'd have to make it absolutely clear in the software and hardware. Imagine a mechanic plugging in the motors wrong or a bug in the software that caused the car to suddenly spin both motors in the same direction. This increases complexity and cost for no apparent improvement in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no clear performance advantage versus one or two (or more) motors. Its not like adding more motors increases the cars performance linearly with each additional one. There was a lot of experimentation done with multiple &lt;em&gt;engines&lt;/em&gt; back in the 60's drag racing scene. Look into it. You will see that the only reason they ran multiple engines was to have more power. Which in the Tesla mentioned is not really a big deal. The car already has a potent enough motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: No, there are no advantage. There are multiple disadvantages that affect not only the cars configuration, but the whole logistics chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:19:19.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23517" CreationDate="2015-12-18T16:33:08.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be a perfect answer, but here's what I know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming this vehicle has a solid rear axle. There should be a panhard or track bar that connects the axle to the frame to keep it in alignment.  The fault with this bar, is it moves the axle to one side when the suspension is compressed, and the other side when the suspension is not compressed.  If the vehicle is raised or lowered, you need to adjust this.  There are 2 popular methods - cut and weld, or find/make an adjustable bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front, you need to worry about toe and camber.  Toe is the alignment looking from the top down (front vs back), camber is the alignment looking at the tires from the front of the vehicle (top vs bottom).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For toe, you use a toe bar.  drive the vehicle up to the location where you will be doing the alignment.  keep the wheel straight.  Measure the front and back, then adjust accordingly.  Move the vehicle back and forth and measure again.  You might be able to build/rig something you can use, but it likely will not be as accurate.  In the end, you want to be between 0 and 1/32&quot; toe in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For camber, you need to measure the angle between the top and bottom of the rim.  There are tools out there for this.  The magnetic ones connect to the rotor so you can set your camber the same as it was after changing shocks.  Not sure if I would trust this for setting the camber.  might be able to use it to make sure they are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At home alignments are OK to get it in the ballpark, but I would highly suggest getting a shop with a proper machine to do the alignment.  They usually have a deal when you buy a set of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:33:08.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21223" CreationDate="2015-12-18T16:50:22.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Let's summarize the symptoms&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When cold, engine struggles to reach 2,000 RPM, exhaust shakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When hot, engine stuggles to go past 2,900 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snap-open throttle  causes engine to die&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine struggles with high loads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues started after the engine began misfiring at cruising speeds between 3,600 - 4,000 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loud rattling noise from the generator in the range of 3,400-4,000 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose bolt near the serpentine belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What these symptoms could mean&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;1&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;2&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;4&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;are classical symptoms associated with an exhaust restriction, quite likely a clogged catalytic converter.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high backpressure induced by the exhaust restriction makes it difficult for the engine to pump gases through, which is the reason it feels like the engine's &quot;bogging down&quot; or &quot;hitting the ceiling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the engine hits the ceiling with the engine cold further strengthens this theory; under cold-start enrichment the fuel management pumps in a richer air-fuel mixture, which means that more unburnt hydrocarbons would make their way to the exhaust plumbing, making the flow through the cats more restrictive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;3&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;5&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;indicate issues with air-fuel mixture.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If AFR is too lean, the likelihood of detonation increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If AFR is too rich, you will end up with unburnt hydrocarbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My take is that there are multiple issues here, which will be difficult to pinpoint due to the lack of information. What follows is my best guess as to what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clogged catalytic converters tell me that the engine spends a lot of time running rich, yet you have experienced misfiring which I assume indicates the presence of a lean mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptom &lt;kbd&gt;3&lt;/kbd&gt; seems to indicate that the lambda sensors before the cats are not reacting quickly enough. The ideal thing would be to monitor the trace of the sensor output to see if it is functioning as expected. If the sensors are good, the next paragraph may explain what's happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that symptom &lt;kbd&gt;5&lt;/kbd&gt; has me wondering about something. It is quite possible that something like a bad batch of fuel or weak fuel pump running very hot (was the weather hot that day?) caused the lean condition which resulted in physical damage to the catalytic converters that resulted in the exhaust restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to confirm if the cats are damaged this is visually inspect the cats to see if they have deformed due to high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can't comment on&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;6&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;7&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may be related to one another. Difficult to say from just that picture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T16:50:22.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23491" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:08:58.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your history &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23043/detect-engine-stumble-or-hesitation&quot;&gt;of&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23237/calculate-car-battery-life-using-obd-parameters&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23475/calculate-tyre-pressure-of-a-car-from-obd-parameters&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt;, I'm going to hazard a guess that you're trying to build an app functionality that can report a sudden drop in oil or fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17437/675&quot;&gt;I have seen fuel rail pressure reported&lt;/a&gt; in a freeze frame through OBD-II for one vehicle, a 2009 Mercedes GLK280, but not on other vehicles. I do not know what PID would provide this information though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil pressure is less promising for reasons that @sweber has mentioned; it is not something monitored by the ECU beyond a binary threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footnote&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to question why you would need an app that monitors oil pressure. It is a rare, rare thing for it to be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:08:58.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16061" CreationDate="2015-12-18T17:37:27.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It definitely does sound like a bad wheel hub bearing. Classic pattern of woob-woob-woob-woob. The sound is made as the bearing inner race wobbles around the outer race. This is a safety issue. Replace as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you take a look at the CV joints? A bad CV boot could have damaged the bearing by filling it up with gunk (a mix of dirt and grease). Like liquid sandpaper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T17:37:27.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:36:28.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not enough info to answer definitively.  However since you have no electricity powering anything, it's a connection somewhere.  Often this is the ground wire - a very simple fix.  It's the wire that goes from the body of the car to the battery, which on your car is the negative terminal. The fact that you were able to get the car started once, supports this, as the other car was the ground then (but again not the only possible cause). Other than that, the short could be lots of other places. The Distributer is not at all likely - this would not affect the rest of the electrics as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13743" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:36:28.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2015-12-18T19:12:43.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the frame number is 12 digits long (starts with ex500 or some variant of the bike model), THATs the actual VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kawasaki-rider.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kawasaki-rider.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6903&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13328" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T19:12:43.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-18T21:30:12.193" Score="7" ViewCount="2283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was a product like this. Also, here in Canada (and other countries too), tinting the windshield is illegal. What if the film is clear? Would it still be illegal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T09:02:00.510" Title="Is there such as thing as acoustic windshield tint/film?" Tags="|tint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23546" CreationDate="2015-12-18T22:35:49.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of an acoustic tint (could be out there..), but there is a windshield material manufacturer (Saflex) that makes an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.saflex.com/en/AutoAcousticWindshields.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;acoustic layer&lt;/a&gt; for use &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; a windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajrG8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajrG8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saflex exploded diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They market it as &amp;quot;Saflex Q Series&amp;quot;, and one of their biggest clients is Ford (via Carlite), which puts it in several of their vehicles under the SoundScreen® trademark.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://carlite.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Acoustic-Apps_Jan_20131.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; from Carlite (OEM windshield manufacturer for Ford) shows the many Ford cars with the tech in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another article describing the technology: &lt;a href=&quot;http://glassmagazine.com/article/auto/acoustic-windshields-the-quiet-revolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://glassmagazine.com/article/auto/acoustic-windshields-the-quiet-revolution&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently, PVB suppliers have developed vinyls with improved acoustic-damping qualities. These new interlayers are particularly efficient in the 1,500 Hz to 5,000 Hz frequency range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decibel reduction typically is 2-3 dB overall. Although not large, it results in a quieter vehicle interior that allows people to converse without shouting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acoustic vinyl also enables vehicle designers to decrease the thickness of the windshield without negatively affecting noise levels. This is particularly important as automotive engineers try to shave weight off vehicles to make them more fuel efficient. Acoustic vinyl windshields meet all of the same federal safety specs as regular vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T22:35:49.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:17:27.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've also had the battery on a trickle charger and had it tested&#xA;  twice by two different stores (both reported the battery is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batteries can report to be fine but still not work. This really seems like a bad battery. Do the following test with a multi-meter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hook the meter leads to the appropriate pole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to start the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the meter and make note of the reading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery reads anything less than 11.5v it will need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to look for is a voltage drainage. Measure the battery volts before hooking it up to the terminals. Then take another reading. There should be no real difference in the readings. If you see a difference of more than .2V then you have a short that is consuming power. Go to the fuse box and start pulling fuses one by one to see where the power is being consumed from. Then track down the wiring for that fuse and try to find any nicks or bad parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T01:17:27.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23521" CreationDate="2015-12-19T01:24:57.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a common issue with the VW oil pressure sender and its connector. Since the car is turbo, I'd have the sender changed first. If that solves then good. If not, you will need to have a mechanic take pressure readings. Its common for the turbo to start cooking the oil and blocking the passages once its dying. Not a good thing to waste time on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4274813636_6497f8b86b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sender location diagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T01:24:57.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23582" CreationDate="2015-12-19T02:33:36.757" Score="2" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a Chevy Tuned Port Injection (TPI) system from a 91 Camaro Z28 with a 350 cubic inch motor. Is the injection on this batch fire (fires all injectors at the same time regardless of the intake stroke of the cylinder)? The 93 LT1 motor was batch fire, then changed to sequential port injection (injectors fire in time with intake valve opening) in 94.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T17:18:31.677" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T17:18:31.677" Title="Is the Chevrolet TPI batch fire injection?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|fuel-injection|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23532" CreationDate="2015-12-19T02:35:41.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would put money on this being the brakes chuffing on the rotors, or something related with the wheel going around. The easiest way to test this theory is to jack the car up and spin the wheel. Should exhibit the same type of noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T03:33:09.500" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T03:33:09.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23546" CreationDate="2015-12-19T07:14:05.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;S-LEC is one worth looking into, cost is unknown to me, or how effective it is as treatment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locally in Hawaii we have a tint that can be put on the windshield. Its purely a UV film, as it has no help on &quot;tinting&quot; the light transmission any darker than factory. You could perhaps put a few layers on there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats probably about the thickest anyone is going to allow anything to be put on the windshield. Not sure how much it would help any acoustics. Maybe a last option to have one more layer of any kind, protect that nice car dash, or more rigidity up front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12675" LastEditorUserId="12675" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T09:02:00.510" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T09:02:00.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-19T17:35:23.630" Score="4" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the engine of a Yamaha FZ6. &lt;strong&gt;I want to use it to run a competition single seater car&lt;/strong&gt; we are builiding in the university. The engine didn't bring the radiator with it. I would like to refrigerate the engine with &lt;strong&gt;one or two&lt;/strong&gt; radiators I bought separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how many new radiators I should use. And in case I have to use both, how I must connect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to know if the pump will have enough power to flow the coolant liquid through the new cooling system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions of the original radiator is 320x185x45 (millimeters). The two alternative radiators have the following dimensions 300x190x30 (millimeters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first  photograph  I add it have been taken to one of the new alternative radiator. The second image is a plan of the original radiator (see the red marked part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/em8wx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/em8wx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New radiator imatge nº 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mr6aK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mr6aK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original radiator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13752" LastEditorUserId="13752" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T17:47:17.547" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:34:00.320" Title="Replace Yamaha FZ6 radiator for two smaller ones" Tags="|motorcycle|cooling-system|radiator|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:47:05.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be surprised if the car is suffering from poor fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most-probable explanation for the observed symptoms is that the fuel trim is rich to begin with, which is further enriched by the fuel management when the engine is started cold. Pressing the gas pedal makes the fuel trim large enough to cause the engine to sputter and stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could cause this? There isn't enough information provided to be sure, but checklist of things to inspect would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an under-reading MAF sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &quot;lazy&quot; pre-cat lambda sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;intake-side air leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insufficient fuel pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T18:47:05.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23571" CreationDate="2015-12-19T18:47:20.813" Score="4" ViewCount="3045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the lambda on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L because it was showing a signal that was &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22686/my-ignition-timing-is-retarded-no-seriously-its-really-screwed-up&quot;&gt;constantly pegged lean&lt;/a&gt; and I suspected it was defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing the sensor I took the car for a 15 minute spin which I logged.  One thing of interest to me was the relation between O2 voltage and STFT ( I logged this at the end of the drive ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuSL9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuSL9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/feature/o2-sensor-testing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reading a page about diagnosing lambda operation&lt;/a&gt; and a few questions came up in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question was due to this sentence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) The O2 sensor must cycle at least once per second, which would show 3 cross counts on the scan tool PID. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The O2 sensor not only has to cycle, it also has to cycle fast enough (proper frequency) and wide enough (proper amplitude). At least one cycle per second ( 1 Hz ) must be seen at the signal wire in order for the O2 to be considered good (not lazy). A one cycle per second will make the scope trace go across the 0.450 volts mark approximately 3 times, which the ECM recognizes as 3 cross counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on this zoomed in graph the sensor is only crossing 0.45 volts about once every three seconds instead of once per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvq9W.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvq9W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The STFT is also spending about two seconds in negative territory for every one second in positive territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now according to the same site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10) Contrary to what many people think, an O2 sensor WILL NOT cycle by itself. The O2 sensor cycle is a direct result of the ECM response to the changes in the mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question arises, why is my O2 signal cycling so much slower than what this site says is normal, and why is the STFT spending twice the time negative as positive?  This is in a car suffering from a rough idle, with occasional stumbles during idle, and an initial lack of power on acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is just the normal algorithm for this car's ECU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A defective Lambda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A defective ECU not responding as quickly as it should&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air / Fuel mixture not getting completely burnt due to insufficient air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of leaning towards the last possibility since I noticed that the lambda is ranging between .18 to .89 volts with it staying mostly above .20 volts and the fact that the STFT is going negative twice as much as it's going positive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Injector's sticking open or excess fuel pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An intake valve not opening sufficiently &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MAF biased slightly high making ECU think there is more air than there actually is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured cam to lifter clearances.  Spec is 0.23mm to 0.30mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Cyl #   |  1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Intake  | .24 | .29 | .24 | .24 |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;| Exhaust | .29 | .24 | .29 | .24 |&#xA;+---------+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're all within spec, but maybe the wear on I2 relative to the other intake valve lifter shims is causing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I'd like to hear what all y'all think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T05:15:42.543" Title="What controls O2 sensor/lambda cycling?" Tags="|o2-sensor|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23561" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:24:33.457" Score="4" ViewCount="4052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took my car to the tire shop to patch a tire that kept deflating very slowly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to get and alignment and balance ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13072" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T20:33:01.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T23:08:55.323" Title="I just patch my tire what's next" Tags="|tires|alignment|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23558" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:33:14.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Your lambda control looks absolutely fine.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And consequently I don't think it is the root cause for your rough idle. Here's my reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The web page linked in your question says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The O2 sensor must cycle at least once per second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I wouldn't take this as a hard limit for a few reasons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0837603005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bosch Fuel Injection &amp;amp; Engine Management&lt;/a&gt; book indicates a ballpark figure of 1-2 seconds at idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At idle, the cycle from lean to rich and back again may take 1 to 2 seconds. At cruising seed, the cycle may happen several times a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lambda sensors degrade with use. They would have to be changed far more frequently than is the case if a &quot;slow lambda response&quot; code was set by the engine computer on the basis of a hard 1-second limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/WrCa9cC9EPg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ScannerDanner case study&lt;/a&gt; to see an example of &quot;lazy&quot; vs. regular lambda sensor output.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;LTFT and STFT are hovering close to 0%&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the LTFT has already stabilized after replacing the lambda sensor, this is good news as it indicates your car's air-fuel metering is measuring at the exhaust what it believes the AFR should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect them to be perfectly zero. They won't be.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Narrowband lambda sensors are based on qualitative sensing of rich/lean conditions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, I'm not bothered by the fact that the sensor outputs 0.89 V on the rich side, but only 0.2 V rather than the theoretical 0.1 V on the lean side. To the fuel injection management control system, 0.1 V = 0.2 V = lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if this was a wideband sensor the story would be quite different, but it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T20:33:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23559" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:34:41.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you add a patch to a tire, that is off center weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not balance the tire the off center weight might make it shake at certain speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should definitely get that wheel balanced after it is patched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T18:19:44.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T18:19:44.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23579" CreationDate="2015-12-19T20:59:45.933" Score="8" ViewCount="5785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about this problem ever since I had to slightly crank my BMW's engine the opposite way to insert a crank-locking pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the fundamental changes required to make an engine spin the other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the short-block would be unchanged since there is nothing on the crank, connecting rods or pistons that are direction-sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the cylinder head(s) may improve efficiency if reworked but the engine should still run without having to change or flip the positions of the intake and exhaust valves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I believe new camshafts would be needed, but am unsure since it could be that the intake and exhaust camshafts just need to be swapped over (it's a bit difficult to simulate that in my head).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Firing order may have to change in order to maintain identical harmonics. If so, would it be sufficient to just flip the crankshaft around?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I'm not interested in other auxiliaries like the alternator, water pump or power steering pump - just what needs to be engineered on the engine in order to get it to run the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T08:36:16.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T08:36:16.713" Title="What's involved in getting a piston engine to spin the other way?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-19T21:47:58.543" Score="3" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe CRDI Engine Oil Pressure Valve is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13754" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T17:56:19.243" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T17:56:19.243" Title="Hyundai Santa Fe - Engine Oil Pressure Valve" Tags="|oil|hyundai|valve|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-19T21:56:51.180" Score="5" ViewCount="4560" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heater blows cold air at idle. and warms when driving. my temperature gauge goes up when the air is blowing. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13755" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T17:58:52.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:34:10.183" Title="2006 Jeep Commander - heat problems" Tags="|jeep|heater|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12288" CreationDate="2015-12-19T22:39:19.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is fine to use the correct RTV sealant instead of a gasket if used in the right application (oil, high temp, fuel). Not, however, if the gasket thickness is required to produce a specific amount of clearance. RTV sealant is better than primitive gaskets in most applications ie. Water pumps, thermostat housings, intake manifolds, sump pans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13757" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T01:19:30.613" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T01:19:30.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22055" CreationDate="2015-12-20T03:27:42.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, there is a way to access the instantaneous fuel flow rate inside the secret menu on this model. I know this is not exactly what you're after but this parameter has a very fast refresh rate, and to obtain the l/100 km reading it you simply have to divide the value by vehicle speed and adjust for units if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the key in the &quot;off&quot; position, keep the &quot;Mode&quot; and &quot;Set&quot; buttons pressed and then turn the car on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you access to some neat metrics including battery voltage, fuel flow rate, digital tachometer and vehicle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cycle through the options using the &quot;Mode&quot; button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T03:27:42.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T04:30:55.717" Score="2" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was driving my truck down the interstate going 55mph when my &#xA;acceleration stopped as I had my foot on the gas. I had half a tank of gas, &#xA;battery strong. I pulled over and was able to start it again but then died again &#xA;several seconds later or if put into drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've towed it back to my house and it still cranks and runs for several seconds then dies.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13762" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T13:15:26.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T13:15:26.920" Title="94 Dodge Ram starts and runs shortly, then shuts down; first happened while driving" Tags="|maintenance|dodge|stall|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23558" CreationDate="2015-12-20T05:15:42.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a normal fuel control pattern especially for idle. O2 switch patterns are not specified to look a certain way but vary greatly. They are the result of a competing set of requirements including; combustion efficiency, catalyst requirements, driver demand and regulatory requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hold lean strategy seen here is a way to hold the mixture slightly lean (Lambda 1.001). It is often used at idle because it betters mileage a bit. It can be used at idle because engine NOx output is low. NOx is poorly reduced by a three way catalyst in lean mixtures. A similar rich mixture strategy where the mixture is slightly kept rich (lambda .99), high 02 voltage for a longer time than low voltage time, is used less frequently. It provides some power and catalyst strategy help at the expense of fuel mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test at 2500 rpm, the pattern is more likely, but not always like your source described. Testing 02 sensors with scan data is not conclusive due to PCM manipulation of the signal. An oscilloscope and gas analyzer are required to definitively test this sensor. &#xA;Take care when generalizing fuel control strategy and what is found describing how it is done in publicly available sources.  Much of what is found is inaccurate or not detailed enough.There is also some industrial subterfuge that goes on between vehicle manufactures in this area of technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The state of the art has advanced far beyond this, and the games between the vehicle makers and regulators continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T05:15:42.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15876" CreationDate="2015-12-20T05:42:18.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this vehicle has an Elantra GT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only adjustment provided is the front toe setting. All the other adjustments would require parts replacement or other significant interventions.&#xA;Assuming that the 6mm refers to the difference of the tread center measured from the front and back of the tires (tyres) Calculating the toe angle gives a measurement of approximate 1/4 degree. This assumes that each wheel is off by the same amount, which is not a safe assumption, it is within the published specifications. The specification is per wheel and needs to measured and reported as such. The rear toe spec is + .05 to .50 degrees, note that is not given in mm.  If the  alignment was performed on a newer machine a complete report with all the angles should be available. This is required for a proper evaluation of this issue.  In my experience settings at the high angle (.50) could result in faster tire wear. Vibration is not a common symptom of toe misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The report you were given is a consumer version that is not particularly helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T05:42:18.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23570" CreationDate="2015-12-20T06:25:39.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your truck is EFI and not carbureted, turn your ignition on without starting your vehicle.  Listen for your fuel pump to start for a few seconds and then stop.  After one or two times of turning on the ignition and you do not hear the hum of your fuel pump starting and stopping.  Try replacing your fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13764" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:25:39.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23564" CreationDate="2015-12-20T06:34:12.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't done this already, check your antifreeze levels of your overflow and radiator when cool.  Make sure both are full.  Often times, there can be an air lock preventing antifreeze from circulating through the heater core.  I normally leave the coolant cap off and jack up the vehicle in the front after starting the vehicle and letting it warm up for 15-20 minutes until all of the air bubbles come out of the coolant cap.  I normally squeeze the top and bottom radiator hoses along with the two smaller heater core hoses to ensure all air is bled out.  If your temperature gauge goes past the normal level or never gets to the normal level, replace your thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13764" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:34:12.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23559" CreationDate="2015-12-20T06:40:36.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, tire technicians remove the tire from the rim to patch it.  When the tire is mounted back onto the rim, it normally can cause the weight to be distributed differently.  Balancing the wheel after getting it patched is always a best practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13764" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:40:36.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2015-12-20T06:49:06.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This interesting subject has many variables. Most opinions have been based on the supposition the an engine will be operated at its extremes of power demand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the point of view of what energy is contained in the fuel, low octane wins. From the point of view of seeking most power for engine capacity, higher octane wins.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any petrol engine, fuel that is too low on octane can cause damage through detonation, more quickly if it occurs at high engine load and revolutions. Too high an octane could also cause damage in similar circumstances due to the exhausting of still burning fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal use, an engine can manage a range of fuel specification with its own management. But a loose nut behind the steering wheel could help prove this wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13765" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:27:21.957" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:27:21.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T12:38:24.643" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying different driving styles for a while now, in an effort to reduce my fuel economy and tank range. I've found that I get the best results when racing around, as opposed to driving particularly slow or carefully. What's going on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also; how can I calculate the ideal range to shift (etc.) to achieve my goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T06:28:15.753" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T06:28:15.753" Title="Fuel Consumption Paradox" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-consumption|gasoline|efficiency|holden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23562" CreationDate="2015-12-20T13:06:31.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's actually quite a bit involved in making an engine run correctly in reverse. Here's the run down as far as I can tell (hopefully I won't miss something obvious):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block/Crank/Connecting Rods:&lt;/strong&gt; These should be standard between either Counter Clockwise Rotation (CCWR) or Clockwise Rotation (CWR) engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pistons:&lt;/strong&gt; Looking at a V-style engine, when you look at a piston and how it's made, you'll understand it's made shifted a little towards the thrust side. This means that the piston pin boss is offset to one side slightly to make up for the V and rotation of the engine. This offset helps keep the piston square in the bore and reduces piston/cylinder wear when running under load. With this in mind, you'd need to run your pistons offset to the opposite side. I'm sure this would take specially built pistons, because on a lot of V-type engines, valve reliefs in the piston face are for one direction. I believe even inline engines have pistons offset to compensate for thrust load because the angle of the connecting rod will always be anything but inline with the cylinder bore (on any production engine, anyway). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camshaft:&lt;/strong&gt; Since the camshaft is the &quot;brain&quot; of the engine, it makes sense that you need a cam shaft which is built to run the engine in the opposite direction. Since custom cams are common place these days, getting one built should not be an issue. On most engines which are built to run CCWR, the only thing which runs in reverse is the crankshaft. While the lobes are cut differently with timing, the only thing which needs to change is how it's timed. With Chevy V8's, they usually run a direct drive (helical gear cut with direct drive instead of a timing chain). Here's a picture of one:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZAYo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kZAYo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Pump:&lt;/strong&gt; You'd need to have the oil pump do its thing in the opposite direction. If the pump is driven off of a camshaft like the old school Chevy V8, since these are usually run in the correct rotation, it will run as normal. Others would require a whole different pump setup where the oil passages could be reversed to allow the gears to work correctly. A dry sump may be an easy fix for this, or a bunch of machining/rewelding of an existing pump to make the inlet/outlet holes go in opposite directions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distributor/Ignition system:&lt;/strong&gt; Modern engines with electronic control units (ECU) ignition systems require new programming. You just have to tell the computer what's going on, when to expect an even to occur, and when to deliver the spark. The reluctor ring just tells the computer where the crank shaft is at. As long as it knows where it's at, it will know what event should take place when as long as it's programmed correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting:&lt;/strong&gt; This is an obvious one ... you need to either get the starter to work in reverse (rewired to work in the opposite direction) or turn it around somehow so it will work from the opposite side (usually a nose cone on the starter which allows you to mount the starter on the opposite side). There are options for many standard engines which are worked to run CCWR which allow you to do either. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing Belt:&lt;/strong&gt; If the engine were designed originally with a timing belt, as @DucatiKiller stated, you'd have to run the tensioner on the opposite side, or somehow compensate for it, otherwise the belt would be prone to slippage due to it not providing the amount of tension in the right places. Slack would appear where it wasn't intended to. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Windage Tray:&lt;/strong&gt; If the engine is equipped with a windage tray, you'll have to figure out some way to collect the air the other way. This might not be too hard if the tray is louvered. Pound down the louvers so they are flat, then punch out the opposite side so it will then collect the wind/oil as it flings towards it. (&lt;em&gt;NOTE: this was an addition in edit&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T23:04:55.750" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:04:55.750" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T13:09:30.907" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to to write an app which advises the driver to change gears and do some other driving quality assessments. For this purpose I need to determine the RPM and currently active gear in a manual transmission vehicle. I am working on a Ford Fiesta 1.6 Petrol and reading the information from OBD2 using CAN and I can read the RPM but there is no standard PID for gear. Does anyone know how to determine the currently engaged gear for a MT vehicle from OBD2 at least for Ford Fiesta if not generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I wanted to know if I can use the engine load value (PID 4, Mode 1) to determine of the engine is going to stall? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13768" LastEditorUserId="13529" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T12:59:43.267" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T12:59:43.267" Title="Determining active gear from OBD2 for Ford Fiesta" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|electronic-control-module|engine-load|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23580" CreationDate="2015-12-20T13:25:39.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can determine the gear by comparing the engine RPM and the vehicle speed. Most cars that have a shift light though do not actually know what gear they are in, they use engine RPM, engine load and throttle position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A near stall could be determined by looking at engine load and RPM. Low RPM and high load will give it away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T13:25:39.453" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23550" CreationDate="2015-12-20T17:17:49.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/2165338-tpi-batch-fire-question.html#ixzz3usf6SNnB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Corvette web site&lt;/a&gt; which pulled this from GM Performance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Most early EFI systems were batch-fire systems where the ECM fired all eight injectors simultaneously. Usually batch-fire systems fire the injectors once per engine revolution. This way, the injectors could be sized small enough to be more easily controlled at idle. Later, sequential EFI systems were refined to fire an injector a few degrees before the intake valve opened. Generally, sequential injection offers more precise fuel control at the price of increased complexity. But on production engines, the benefits are more in the area of emissions and driveability than in performance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer appears to be that the TPI injection system is indeed a batch fire system which fires all eight injectors at the same time. I found several other sources which corroborate this. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/45802-tpi-really-batch-fire.html#post279238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thirdgen.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There does appear to be some mis-information out there concening this. Some would say these systems fire 1/2 at a time (odd bank, then even bank, etc, four injectors at a time). This is not correct. The Reason for this mis-information is that the injectors run on two separate circuits. The only reason for splitting these as was done was to distribute the electrical load so as to not overload one circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T17:17:49.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23594" CreationDate="2015-12-20T19:24:17.303" Score="17" ViewCount="7453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching some youtube videos and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmIfjmvXp0I&quot;&gt;diesel engine runaway&lt;/a&gt; videos started to pop up where apparently the diesel engine runs out of control until it destroys itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is diesel engine runaway?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How does diesel engine runaway occur? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can it be prevented?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of this condition before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLzf3ItkbOE&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; just in case.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T02:01:53.537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T17:57:25.457" Title="Diesel Engine Runaway - What is it?" Tags="|engine|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T19:47:19.807" Score="7" ViewCount="1631" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Nissan won't start today. Battery is relatively new(about one year old) and I can turn the lights on, front headlights, and it appears fine.&#xA;However, when I tried to start the car by turning the car key, suddenly all the power is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play with the battery connection a little bit, the power will be back. And everything works fine, headlight, radio etc and stay strong. But if i tried to start the engine again, the power will immediately gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried search the web but can't find a solution. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13771" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T03:23:46.773" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T13:32:32.390" Title="Car battery appears good but car won't start" Tags="|battery|starting|nissan|power|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23588" CreationDate="2015-12-20T19:48:20.407" Score="3" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chilton manual for the late 90s and early 2000s Durango and RAM says that PCM controls ignition timing and spark advance.  I don't understand this, because these motors are equipped with a standard spark-gap distributor.  Because of the mechanical timing, the computer timing should be irrelevant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please clarify what is going on with these dodge and similar engines?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the relationship between the PCM, the distributor system, and actual ignition control?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T19:18:35.707" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:18:35.707" Title="How is Dodge Spark Advance Controlled by the PCM if there is a Distributor?" Tags="|ignition|dodge|timing|electronic-control-module|durango|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23587" CreationDate="2015-12-20T20:26:47.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the vehicles are equipped with a distributor the innards of that distributor have changed quite a bit. The distributor no longer contains flyweights or any mechanical timing controls, instead it contains the camshaft position sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the system works is, readings are taken from the crankshaft position sensor by the PCM. The PCM then calculates the needed timing and fires the ignition coil at the correct time. The distributor then directs the spark to the correct cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T20:26:47.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12638" CreationDate="2015-12-20T21:47:03.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Secondary air pump is located below the engine to the right. The combi valve is located to the left. There are a pair of black air hoses in between. The combi valve costs roughly 180€ and the air pump 430€. The secondary air pump manufactured by Pierburg (OEM) for VW is known to fault. The early models of the fan enclosure is using rivets instead of bolts. The rivets will not last and cause leaks and pressure leak, which causes the OBD II test to fail. Current replacement pumps uses small screws/bolts to keep the enclosure tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to gain access to the pump you have to remove 4 screws below the engine with the plastic splash shield. The pump is fastened to a bracket with 3 10mm nuts. Detach the electrical wiring to the pump along with the 2 airhoses connecting to the pump. Detach the air hoses from the secondary airpump to the air filter box and the combi valve. In order to remove the pump also the mounting bracket has to be removed. The bracket is fitted with 3 8mm allen-key bolts. In order to gain access to the 3 8mm bolts the following needs to be removed: 2 top engine covers, the secondary air pump vacum control system on top in front of the engine, the oil dipstick mount (yellow/orange) needs to be pulled off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitting is reversal of removal. I would estimate that if you done the work before it can be done in 3 hours. If not, you most likely spend a day. You need at least, 6mm and 8mm allen key sockets with twisted headed grip to gain momentum, torx 25, flat headed screwdriver. 10mm spanner to complete the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13774" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T21:47:03.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23585" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:28:54.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't realize, diesel engines do not have throttle plates (butterflies) like gasoline engines which controls the amount of air going into the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it is controlled is through the amount of fuel which is injected into the engine. The more fuel, the faster the engine will run. The way this is counteracted is through the use of a governor. The governor can be either mechanical or electronic in nature. Depending on the throttle position, the governor will allow more/less fuel into the system to speed-up/slow-down the RPMs. If something happens to the governor, or it isn't doing it's job, the engine can go into a &lt;em&gt;runaway&lt;/em&gt; situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a runaway occurs, the engine will continue to gain speed until it reaches a point where it cannot go faster and will stabilize at that speed. This speed is usually well beyond the redline of the engine. Due to being at this &lt;em&gt;maximum speed&lt;/em&gt;, the engine will soon self destruct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways you can stop a runaway once it has begun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop the intake of air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop the fuel from entering the cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest of the two, in most cases, is to stop the air from going into the engine. If you saw a video of a runaway which they were able to stop the engine from self destructing, you probably saw them put something solid, like a piece of wood (I saw someone use a clipboard once) in front of the intake to shut off the flow of air. This will shut an engine down very quickly and prevent the runaway from doing any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runaways are far less common with today's electronic fuel injection, but can still happen. I saw a video of a brand new (at the time ... probably a 2012/2013 model) GMC pickup truck do a runaway where the engine went into thermonuclear meltdown. It got to a point and the engine started slowing down (melting pistons??), then the radiator blew out ... made a huge mess of things. Runaways have been occurring since the advent of the diesel engine. I don't expect to hear the end of them as long as diesel engines work as they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T17:57:25.457" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T17:57:25.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23559" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:38:46.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the patch material used on the tire to patch it, it may require a re-balance. I have used plugs probably a hundred times and have never had a re-balance done on them and have had zero issues with balance on the tires. The plugs just don't weigh enough to interfere with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've had an inside the tire patch, depending on how it was applied, it may/may not need to be re-balanced. If they took the tire off the rim, then yes, it would obviously need to be re-balanced. If, on the other hand, they only detached one bead from the rim and fixed the tire with the other side still intact, they would not need to re-balance it as the tire would still be in the same place as it was prior to the patch job. I've seen it done this way before, but I doubt it happens that often. If there are weights on both sides of the tire, they will most likely remove the weights to aid in the bead displacement process. If this was done, there'd need to be a re-balance done as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as an alignment goes, you don't need one just because of the work done on the tire. The reason I make this distinction is, if it needed an alignment &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the tire work was done, you'd still need one after ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T23:08:55.323" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T23:08:55.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:56:04.003" Score="4" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to run defrost without automatic using the switch on the air conditioning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how can I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13776" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T11:47:58.143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:36:54.293" Title="Chrysler Voyager 1997 - How to run defrost without automatic switch on the AC?" Tags="|ac|chrysler|defroster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23585" CreationDate="2015-12-20T23:22:51.597" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the diesel has no physical throttle, power is controlled by limiting fuel. Air is always available so any unintended, un-metered fuel will cause the engine to increase rpm and power output. The most common sources are blowby oil and oil leaking from a worn turbocharger, these then pool in the intake manifold. This engine oil gets pulled into the engine during low load high rpm operation. It usually starts when the engine is revved up with no load, once a runaway starts the high air flow rates in the manifold continue to pull oil from the pool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While engine oil does not burn as well as diesel it will burn well enough to reach redline rpm in a warmed up engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preventative maintenance involves inspection and repair of worn parts with particular attention to piston rings and turbos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design prevention should focus on eliminating areas in the intake that allow pooling so that incoming oil is processed a little at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stop a run away engine plug the intake or open the compression brake valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T14:59:32.757" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T14:59:32.757" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T01:03:12.323" Score="2" ViewCount="3227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this a problem a lot with this vehicle. I have a 99 Jeep Wrangler TJ. I believe the car's computer has a battery that is a dead (like a watch battery). For some reason when it stalls or when it needs a jump it forgets how to keep itself running. I then have to manually control the amount of gas going to the car to keep it idling for sometimes 15 minutes. Then if I turn it off before I let it stall, I can start it back up and it'll work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process that best works is starting up with heavy gas, and slowly taking the gas idle. Then restarting the car and it holds out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a faster way to do this? What's happening? How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="999" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T04:57:48.727" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:05:09.793" Title="Jeep stalls a lot has trouble idling after battery pulled for a long time?" Tags="|battery|jeep|rough-idle|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23601" CreationDate="2015-12-21T03:17:05.487" Score="8" ViewCount="7321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put simply, are there any good tricks for keeping track of removed screws and bolts when you're dealing with a lot of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm officially one evening into an interior restoration job on my '88 BMW M5, and around twenty screws in, I've just gotten the first sticky switch out to be cleaned. I'm under the impression that just the simple task of keeping track of which length screw goes back in which hole is going to be an undertaking on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly for smaller jobs, it's normally no issue to just remember what came from where. But this is a fourteen-week process (at which point I get the engine back from being rebuilt), and pretty much everything needs to be taken apart. I don't expect my memory to be that good. And before you ask, of course, they're all different lengths, but the same diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips or tricks for how one can ensure the right parts go back to the right places? I'd hate to think this will be the hardest part of the whole job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only ideas I can think of so far are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take pictures:&lt;/strong&gt; I've been doing this, but I'm not sure how meaningful my pictures will be. They might be more useful if I was holding every screw next to a tape measure or quarter for scale, and taking a few pictures each, but that's way too much overhead for every single screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Work in small batches:&lt;/strong&gt; If I can reduce the number of screws I'm dealing with at any moment, that might help. But like I said, it took around twenty for me to just get this one switch out--I expect many more to get to anything meaningful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape the screws across the holes each came out of:&lt;/strong&gt; Most of what I'm dealing with is pretty clean, so Scotch Tape might do it, but it seems like this would run a very high risk of losing the screws if the tape didn't hold. I'm using a magnetic bowl to store my screws now, which is awesome for not losing them, but dreadful for organizing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A box for each part:&lt;/strong&gt; From a strictly organizational perspective, it might help to have several boxes or bowls to put screws in, so I can say &quot;all screws that go into this piece of the dash are in this box,&quot; but I'm not sure how well that would scale (how many boxes will I need!), and it wouldn't suffice alone if one part had a lot of screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy a Bentley Manual:&lt;/strong&gt; I don't remember whether they list screw sizes (probably), but if so, a nice and clean solution--just worry about it later and read the manual when I need to put it together--except there isn't one for this car, and documentation is few and far between because the car is so rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated, as I'm really not sure what to do. It's such a simple and frivolous problem in the scheme of things, but I'm seriously worried about getting it all back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this stuff tends to work out when you don't overthink it, so maybe I should just ignore it and do my best. I'd just like to think there was something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T19:00:52.653" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T04:26:28.277" Title="Keeping track of removed screws?" Tags="|diy|restoration|screw|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23595" CreationDate="2015-12-21T03:51:40.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine computer looses is idle speed learning whenever it drops below nine volts even for a short time. The problem here is the starting battery or its connections. Hook up a voltmeter across the battery terminals then crank the engine for 15 seconds. The voltage should remain above 9.6 volts. If the voltage drops below nine the computer will loose the idle speed learn. Your &quot;run it until it idles&quot; process is just fine. The problem should clear up when the battery problem gets repaired. It may need a new battery or battery terminal repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer does not have any internal battery for memory keeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T03:51:40.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:28:44.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a POS (Piece of S**t) salvage motorcycle I purchased cheap for a purpose which has now passed. I'm ready to get rid of it and there's a guy down the street that mentioned possibly wanting to buy the engine, but only the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know that the frame and the engine both have VIN numbers ... if I sell just the engine, do I give him the title or do I keep the title for when I sell the frame?  Or do I need to get a duplicate title and give him a title and whomever I sell the frame to a title as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is in regard to whatever would be the proper course of action in relation to California Dept of Motor Vehicle law. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10623" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T11:34:30.143" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T11:34:30.143" Title="Who gets title if you sell a frame and an engine separately" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|frame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23598" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:57:57.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the uk - the titles go with the frame. The engine has its own number but that can be updated by writing to the relevant authority when you do an engine swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T06:57:57.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23596" CreationDate="2015-12-21T10:05:42.207" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick I've used before is to draw an outline of the part on a sheet of paper, then push the screws/bolts through the paper in the right places - this does both the association with the part and with the location, useful for things with different length bolts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick, as per Zaid's comment, is to use sandwich bags, which can be labelled as to where their contents come from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T10:05:42.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23596" CreationDate="2015-12-21T10:27:13.927" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the sort of thing where one should let common sense prevail¹.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, a thorough job will keep track of the following aspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;storage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - ensuring that the part isn't misplaced when it's time to put everything back together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;location&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - where that screw/bolt/nut/washer/grommet/O-ring is supposed to go&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;sequence&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - the order of disassembly and subsequent assembly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these isn't accounted for, that's when cars end up with, errr, unexpected weight loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good success with zip-lock sandwich bags, sticky labels and a pen. Others will swear by pieces of paper in a Styrofoam cup. Sometimes you can keep the fasteners attached to the disassembled part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense to group bolts/screws/fasteners based on location or what they fasten on to. Use labels or photographs to keep track of what goes where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suggestion here is to add numbers to the label in order to preserve the sequence of disassembly. When it's time to put everything back together it should make it a whole lot easier to reverse the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you need to maintain the order of parts or fasteners within a group, mark up an empty pizza box or ice cube tray and push them through to preserve sequence. This works well for valves, valve lifters, valve springs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Documenting through photographs can be painstaking and time-consuming, but I consider them essential where sequence is confusing or location is critical. This photo of my E39 M5 oil pump bolts turned out to be well worth the effort when the time came to button it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eygXF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eygXF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E39 Oil Pump Bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - Although, to quote &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Common_sense_is_not_common&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltaire&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Common sense is not so common&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T10:27:13.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23598" CreationDate="2015-12-21T11:32:29.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine is a sub-component of the vehicle, just like a transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about if you took the vehicle to the shop with a blown engine. You have the engine replaced. The bike is still yours. The title still remains with you (or the bank if they own it). You could strip &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; off the frame and you'd still retain the title with the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T11:32:29.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23595" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:05:09.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like either a dirty throttle body, bad idle speed motor, or bad coolant temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with cleaning the throttle body.  If there is gunk in there, the AIS may not be able to let enough air by to raise the idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AIS automatically set the idle speed based on several factors, mainly engine temperature.  The cold idle should be around 1500-2000 RPM.  If it is lower and tries to idle around 900 or lower, then the AIS is likely to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low idle could also be due to the coolant temperature sensor telling the ECU that the engine is warm when it is actually cold.  When the engine is cold, the ECU raises the idle, richens the fuel mixture and retards the timing.  You can test the CTS with an ohm meter.  You should be able to find the values in a repair manual or online.  Be aware you might have 2 coolant sensors, one for the ECU and one for the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:05:09.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23586" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:13:18.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the terminals to the battery.  clean the battery and terminals with a wire brush or a battery post cleaning tool.  Reinstall.  If you have posts, you may need to replace the clamp if the current one is too stretched.  Also check your ground is good and connected to a clean part of the body or block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:13:18.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23620" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:41:05.800" Score="9" ViewCount="8207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;code&gt;KTM Duke 390 - 2013&lt;/code&gt;, single cylinder 373 cc motorcycle for 4 months now. I bought it from another owner when it was around 9500 km. now It's at 12000. This is my first bike, and I'm trying to improve my abilities, technical and theoretical knowledge about the bikes too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last month-when winter got really harsh here-my bike started to behave differently. Especially in the mornings I start the engine, and immediately start riding without warming it up. And at the first stop at a traffic light no matter I'm on &lt;code&gt;neutral&lt;/code&gt;, or pulled the &lt;code&gt;clutch lever&lt;/code&gt; fully while on first gear the engine stops, and won't start for 10 to 15 minutes(&lt;code&gt;bump-start&lt;/code&gt; works). Very very annoying behavior. In order to avoid this, I don't let the engine to run idle(always give some gas up to 2500/13000 rpm - its idle is 1500 rpm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting point is when I took it to &lt;strong&gt;KTM&lt;/strong&gt; service they said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;This is a normal behavior of single cylinder engines. You have to start it on neutral, warm it up at least 4-5 minutes. Than you're good to go. Otherwise it will stop and won't start for a while.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took their advice and it works just fine. But I'm struggling to be convinced. I am planning to sell my bike around spring, and I don't want to put up a faulty bike for sale without knowing it's fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys think that this behavior is common and normal? Or should I dig deeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PS: My bike is still on warranty.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13781" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:58:23.043" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T05:40:03.440" Title="KTM Duke 390 - Does it have to be hot to ride?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|cold-start|ktm|warmup|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23606" CreationDate="2015-12-21T13:53:04.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly This is common on high capacity single cylinder engines where the compression ratios are very high compared to relatively sized multi cylinder engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden a KTM 390 and I have faced this issue sometimes, getting it to restart is a pain, trust me its normal behaviour there is no fault or issue with the bike, its just the way the bike is designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is after starting, either idle or drive at very low speeds for a couple of minutes and then you are good to go. I would say at least 3 or 4 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: This issue also persists when the engine is very very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T13:53:04.173" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T16:30:41.517" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a '95 Ford F250 with the 7.3l diesel. Starter just quit working one day. I changed the solenoid and the key lock barrel on the steering column. Now it will turn over but won't stop. Starter motor will continue to run until the batteries are dead. I've been told there are a couple of other relays in the ignition system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13784" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T18:03:52.903" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:27:01.947" Title="1995 Ford F-250 - Starter continues to run until the batteries are dead" Tags="|ford|diesel|starter|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23596" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:05:52.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick and dirty way to avoid tracking every fastener individually is to mark the common fasteners &amp;amp; locations with a paint pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1/4&quot;-20 x 1-1/2&quot;&lt;/code&gt; (Let's say this is common in your case) bolts get a dab of paint and IN the hole for identification later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other uncommon fasteners should be more obvious.  If the job is particularly complex, blend this quick-identification method with a more complex tracking mechanism.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13785" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T17:58:13.117" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:58:13.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="49366" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:33:41.107" Score="1" ViewCount="10705" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that under normal operation spark advance is directly proportional to RPM, i.e. as RPM increases so does spark advance due to the need to ignite the AFM earlier the quicker the piston is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was somewhat surprised when I saw this graph from my 98 Mazda 626 while it was idling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3mNi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3mNi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the spark advance here is inversely proportional ( a mirror image ) of the RPM graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which is the cause, and which is the effect, and generally why there would seem to be such an odd relationship between the two at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T06:44:30.340" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T12:16:07.773" Title="Relation Between RPM and Spark Advance" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:44:49.450" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter's 17 and pretty smart.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her Escape wouldn't turn over this morning, sounded like she just needed to jump it. She's never done it before, I'm at work, so I told her to get her friend and jump the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red to red, or positive to positive...you know - basic directions.  She's seen it done before. She just called me and said that it sparked &quot;A TON&quot; and melted the jumper cables.  I have to look at it when I get home but I'm HOPING it was just incorrect charging connection and the only damage will be the melted cables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a basic DIY but not a mechanic. HELP!  I need to know what to do when I get home.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to jump it and if that doesn't work, what next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might that have damaged something else in her car?   :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13787" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T18:11:03.647" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T18:18:35.750" Title="2005 4 cyl Ford Escape" Tags="|ford|battery|jump-start|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:53:03.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is pieced together from articles about this and the talk we had from a Tesla rep at the car leasing company I work for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The improved range of the dual motor setup arises from the front and rear gearboxes (one per motor, nothing interlinking them) having different ratios. Electric motors have a rpm range in which they operate most efficiently, having the motors geared differently means that the car has 2 road speed ranges (1 for each motor) in which the motors are at peak efficiency, covering much more of the car's total speed range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, each motor can be smaller which may be more efficient than a larger motor as a lot of the time only 1 motor will be propelling the car, though that will be offset to some degree by the increased frictional losses from having double the number of drivetrain components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I don't have any info but my guess is that the shorter geared motor has a 1-way clutch of some sort to prevent it from over&#xA;speeding when the car is travelling at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T18:05:00.517" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T18:05:00.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:10:58.893" Score="13" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truck is the high altitude/California emissions model, 318.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor has been replaced with a 4 barrel Holley 4160 I believe, although it might be a 4150, intake manifold was replaced to fit the new carb, nothing fancy though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truck was tuned and up and running fine when I was driving it weekly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had a prolonged illness and the truck sat up for two weeks straight. When I got back in it, it was idling extremely high, probably 1000rpm or so higher than normal, but also dieseling very badly at shut off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up my vacuum gauge and timing light. Timing with the spark advance disconnected is about 10 degrees (I believe 8 is factory spec but it's an old vehicle), and the vacuum gauge showed steady vacuum at about 17Hg, down to about 6 or so Hg when I hit the throttle. It is not however jumping higher after it sinks to 6 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe when I originally set it up it used to sit around 15Hg, jump down to 5Hg and then back up to 20Hg or so before returning to normal when the throttle was activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throttle plate is sitting correctly, the plate for the secondaries is closed, and the choke plate appears to be moving correctly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could cause a constant, very high idle as well as very prolonged dieseling at shut off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will attempt to re-tune the carb this evening but I'm worried I'm just compensating for a larger problem. I'm thinking of removing all of the unnecessary emissions/vacuum stuff and rebuilding the carburetor if I can't find the specific cause of the recent high idle/dieseling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13788" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T07:26:33.230" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T19:35:59.533" Title="1987 Dodge D150 High Idle and Dieseling" Tags="|troubleshooting|dodge|idle|truck|dieseling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23611" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:18:35.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The outcome of the jump-start folly can only be seen when you get home. It may or may not have caused further issues. What you need to do is to attach jumper cables to it &lt;em&gt;correctly&lt;/em&gt; and see if it will allow the vehicle to start. Once it presumably starts, you'll need to check to see if there are any dash lights which stay on, most notably for the alternator (probably just the check engine light - CEL - would be on). If the CEL is illuminated, you'll need to check the output of the alternator. You're looking for ~14vdc at the battery with the engine running. If you get much lower than that, you'll know the alternator isn't charging. In that case you can plan on buying a new one. Beyond that, there may have been some fuses which require some attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get a CEL and everything appears normal after the jump-start, you should be just fine. I've seen jump-start attempts gone wrong before ... most of them have caused no damage. More than likely this will be the same here. Set your daughter up for some remedial jump-start training and all should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T18:18:35.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23596" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:42:07.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i prefer the IKEA way. you may have tons of screws but the actual number of screw types will be far less (to keep manufacturing costs as low as possible). Number the types, group the screws by type and stick numbered label on every single screw hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other method for very small screws: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;draw a sketch of the parts on paper and stick the screws on the paper on the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T19:22:49.373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T19:22:49.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:24:22.163" Score="4" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brand new switch on driver side window mechanism but window no longer works when switch is pressed but rolls freely up and down by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opened up door panel and found motor mechanism just laying at the bottom of my door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question is what's going on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is can I just put it back on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13791" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T23:56:31.083" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T23:56:31.083" Title="93 chevy c1500 4.3L electric window moves freely" Tags="|chevrolet|maintenance|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23621" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:59:12.780" Score="4" ViewCount="17854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changed my oil today but like a fool overfilled when topping up, I did not notice this at first as I have a strange dipstick and fresh oil is pretty difficult to spot however I overfilled by around 5cm over the max point. Without noticing I drove the vehicle to work (30 mile drive). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to drain the oil to the appropriate level however I am a little worried about oil foaming. My heart says that it's fine but my brain wants to ask you good people for advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can determine if oil foaming happened or is happening e.g. bubbles on dipstick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have some other questions post to the previous question, does oil foaming damage the properties of the oil if it were to foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I drain my oil and start again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am probably being a bit of a hypochondriac but never hurts to get advice rather than remaining ignorant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2007 ford fiesta style with a duratec 1.25cc engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T20:21:50.273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T17:57:12.467" Title="Oil overfill problem/oil foaming" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-pan|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:04:31.850" Score="6" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's something wrong with on-board computer or I just don't know how to turn it on. When the car is started the display is completely off. and only turns on sometimes when some kind of &quot;service&quot; message appears. From then it's working fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's normal behavior? How do I turn it on manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T14:45:03.440" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T10:03:00.400" Title="Audi A6 C6 on board computer is off" Tags="|electrical|audi|instrument-cluster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23606" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:35:30.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Pretty Common Problem with the Duke 390&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very common issue with the KTM 390.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of posts regarding customers who are experiencing the same exact issue.  Additionally, there are a few YouTube video's that show the problem happening pretty consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The various proposed issues related by customers seem to revolve around these theories in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bike comes with ECU programming that is too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is an innate issue with single cylinder larger bore motorcycles and can't be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A loose connector to the ECU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A dirty throttle body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A dirty fuel injector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faulty ECU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inadequate fuel pump pressure, faulty fuel pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faulty side stand switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faulty tip switch (kills engine when bike falls on it's side)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of URL's from OP's on various forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7zK2MVTMw0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video showing the issue with a cold engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ktmduke390forum.com/forum/engine-technical-discussion/11890-ktm-duke-200-engine-stalling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unresolved stall issue on a KTM 390 forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ktmduke390forum.com/forum/ktm-duke-general-discussion/16466-idle-stalling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forum post where OP has the issue with a brand new vehicle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ktmduke390forum.com/forum/issues-troubleshooting/13177-ktm-duke-390-stalling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A bunch of people saying 'me too'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are plenty of reviews from motorcycle magazines where they complain of the same exact issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Apparent Fix&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a claim that the true fix is an ECU update.  The justification was that the ECU had a map that was too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/KTM/comments/3l70wc/duke_390_dies_when_at_a_stop_with_the_clutch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is one post.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Confirmation&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I also called a friend that works at a local KTM shop.  He indicated that there is awareness to the issue and that there is a service bulletin from KTM to update the ECU as well as set the idle 100 RPM's higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's under warranty the dealership should be aware of this and be able to resolve it without an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;please note that I called a US dealership, KTM is notorious for not releasing service bullets internationally&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this type of issues with dozens of bikes including my own.  Most common fix was the ventilation hose being bound up and incorrectly routed so that when the tank was sat on the bike, the hose pinched. After riding for a few miles a negative pressure would buildup in the tank and the fuel pump couldn't overcome the vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also routed a breather line that was touching the exhaust and the hose melted, preventing it from being able to breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thumpers and Stalling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not agree with the idea that single cylinders are prone to this.  I have had 6 single cylinder 4-strokes.  Some of them had a stalling problem, some did not.  I was able to fix all of them.  Issues ranged from bad fuel pumps to clogged ventilation breathers for the gas tank to air leaks or lean conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the thumper stalling idea is a myth that get's perpetuated.  Certainly there are some models that may have an issue, just like this bike but I do not see this as a single cylinder issue so much as a KTM quality control issue in there manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warm Up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above being said I would still warm up the bike on cold mornings. The ECU will kick up the idle for a bit more oil pressure while it warms. Although not an air cooled engine parts still expand during warm up AND the oil get's thinner as the bike get's up to operating temperature. Also, I try not to drive vehicles until they are off choke. Old air cooled engine/carburetor habit that I believe still applies to more modern FI (fuel injected) vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T04:28:12.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23618" CreationDate="2015-12-21T21:30:15.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any way I can determine if oil foaming happened or is happening e.g. bubbles on dipstick?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Yes, small bubbles on the dipstick is a good indication of foaming, there should not be any in normal operation. They will not stay long after engine shut down. Quality oil will have an anti-foaming additive that will cause them to dissipate. In extreme cases oil can leak from the PCV breather system. Look inside the air intake tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foaming is caused by the crankshaft dipping into the oil pool. The dipstick max oil level is well below the crankshaft. Think eggbeater. A couple of centimeters overfill is OK, but the safe overfill amount varies with engine design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does oil foaming damage the properties of the oil if it were to foam.&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;No, that by itself will not change the oil chemistry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I drain my oil and start again?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To be safe and alleviate worry, given the relatively low expense, I would. Do not drive it with the oil level too high. &#xA;The bigger concern is possible engine damage. But since there is no quick way to determine if damage happened I would drain and fill, run it at idle for a few minutes and then do a gentle test drive. Time will tell after that.  Damage would, most likely, be first seen at the crankshaft rod bearings. These bearings can fail due to air in the oil allowing metal to metal contact on the bearing to crank journal surface. We hope that has not happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T23:48:01.513" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:48:01.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2015-12-21T21:35:27.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my knowledge here is coming from working on my 1970 Chevy Pickup, so some of it may not be exactly accurate for your vehicle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically 3 things you need to consider for timing - engine RPM, air/fuel ratio, and volume of air fuel mixture in the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine RPM is simple, as the engine spins faster, you need to ignite faster to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A/F ratio - Richer needs LESS advance. More fuel burns faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volume of A/F mixture - more volume = less advance.  If you have more air and fuel, it will burn much faster. This is what vacuum advance takes care of on older vehicles.  Think of the amount of air/fuel in your cylinder at idle versus the amount at WOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the small block chevy's (and I believe most carb engines) you typically set the timing for all in at ~36*.  You hit that 36* early, like 2200 RPM and it will stay there through the rest of the powerband.  Vacuum advance adds ~10-12* of advance at idle and 0* at WOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I can't see your image, so I don't know the range we are working in here.  This is not your fault, I'm at work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be happening, likely a combination - &#xA;ECU is richening the mixture to help counter the heat in the cylinder (common at WOT)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECU is pulling timing to be safe at higher RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were not wide open, then went wide open, the timing should retard quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe volumetric efficiency increases with RPM (especially on a DOHC engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T21:35:27.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23624" CreationDate="2015-12-21T23:13:23.540" Score="1" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;Draining excess oil tomorrow and wondering after leaving the car overnight will any additives within the oil separate sinking to the bottom of the sump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so how long of a drive should I take it for to get things mixed up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to have an idea how much oil is pumped around the engine lets say in one minute running time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:30:54.910" Title="Do additives within oil separate?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|oil-pan|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23623" CreationDate="2015-12-21T23:30:54.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run the car for about 5-10 minutes to get it warmed up, then drain what you are going to if you are dumping it out the bottom. Getting it warmed up a little bit will allow the oil to drop out pretty quick. Wear gloves (nitrile) if available. The oil will flow fast, so pay attention to what you're doing or you'll dump out too much. If you dump your oil into a clean container, you could possibly put some back if you dump out too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how much oil goes through an engine in a period of time, it all depends on what the car is, which engine is in it, what mods are done to the car, how many miles are on the car, what oil is in the car (synthetic/dyno/weight), when the last time the oil was changed, how fast is the engine spinning at any given time, etc, etc, etc. In other words, there are just &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; many variables to give you a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:30:54.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23578" CreationDate="2015-12-22T05:18:59.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setting all other variables aside for a moment, &quot;racing around&quot; is something ill-defined and quite subjective, but it is entirely plausible that something like hard acceleration, while not in the short term, can get you better mileage in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand why this might be the case, you need to understand the &lt;strong&gt;power band&lt;/strong&gt;.  An engine's performance is typically rated by &lt;strong&gt;torque&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;horsepower&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque specification will usually be measured as the maximum torque an engine can produce at a given speed (RPM), while horsepower will measure the maximum amount of power also at a rated speed. Thus the power band is generally defined as the operating speed between the values of which peak torque and horsepower operate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c97Da.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c97Da.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of power/torque vs RPM on two conceptual engines.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this illustration, take the &quot;flexible&quot; engine.  It has a peak torque rated say at about 245 ft-lbs @ 2500 RPM with horsepower peaking at about 225 @ 5500 RPM.  The power band would be somewhere between 2500-5500 RPM.  Rarely are these graphs nicely curved as pictured here.  The torque would usually start drop immediately after its peak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is operating within the power band, it is producing power the most efficiently.  Under &lt;em&gt;ideal operating conditions&lt;/em&gt; (maximum engine load and throttle), an engine will produce power the most efficiently at peak torque RPM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these conditions almost never happen on the road for a sustained period of time, so you will never have the maximal efficiency and so it's not guaranteed that it will be at that speed in typical driving conditions. In-fact the torque and power curves will typically be different depending on the engine load and throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to understand these conditions, you would have to look at a &lt;strong&gt;BSFC&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;SFC&lt;/strong&gt; (Brake / Specific Fuel Consumption) map of your vehicle, if one exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qGMqE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qGMqE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of SFC map sourced from link 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit to clarify&lt;/strong&gt;:  To lessen confusion, SFC can simply be thought of as fuel consumption divided by power.  The lower the SFC number, the more fuel efficient it is at that speed.  You usually see in these graphs that the engines run most efficiently at maximum throttle.  That is because a wide-open throttle provides the engine with a really lean air/fuel mixture, meaning it's heavily aspirated (has a lot of air compared to fuel) and can burn it with relative ease and high efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;strong&gt;user1936752&lt;/strong&gt; stated, the best way to achieve this would be to drive in the highest gear possible as to maintain the lowest RPM to maintain a given speed.  It would mean giving your engine a good amount of throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's very possible that when you're &quot;racing around&quot; you're operating in the power range and so are increasing fuel economy in the long term.  Generally when trying to maximize fuel economy, it's often recommended you accelerate briskly.  Of course if you're not looking ahead you might have to brake and consume more fuel to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13795" LastEditorUserId="13795" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T18:53:10.350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:53:10.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2015-12-22T06:54:29.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This graph does not give enough to be definitive. Here is a theory. A lean cylinder causes the crank to slow down. This is the best explanation for the cyclic dip behavior of the rpm at idle. The lean cylinder also explains the slight upward jump in timing since the PCM responds to lean with an increase in timing. Lean mixtures burn slower and therefore must be ignited earlier to keep that cylinder at the maximum brake torque timing point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T06:54:29.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T08:37:26.780" Score="2" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear this whining noise coming out of my car. I don't know if it's the belt or the fan. It's reduces when I accelerate.the noise doesn't stop until I turn of the engine or accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13796" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T20:21:20.163" Title="Strange loud noise coming out of my VW passat 2008 fsi" Tags="|vw|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23578" CreationDate="2015-12-22T09:27:46.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &quot;racing around&quot; means generally higher speeds, then you could get better economy because you happen to be in a higher gear. The best economy comes about at low rpm but in a high gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive a manual, shift up soon without lugging the engine, get to top gear and stay at low revs there for the best mileage figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T09:27:46.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23631" CreationDate="2015-12-22T09:38:02.620" Score="0" ViewCount="3139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a PDF copy that I can download? Lost the original and the dealer seems unable to procure one. 2010 onwards will do although there was a facelift in 2014 so those are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastEditorUserId="13798" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T09:44:00.990" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:00:48.010" Title="VW Polo (2015) user manual" Tags="|vw|polo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23630" CreationDate="2015-12-22T10:09:20.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to speak to Volkswagen customer service team.  They should be able to assist.  The dealerships ought to be able to order a new owners handbook for you so they can probably explain why this isn't happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their contact details can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/need-help/about-us/customer-care&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at this link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T10:09:20.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23635" CreationDate="2015-12-22T10:59:42.303" Score="5" ViewCount="6725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect my fuel pump causing intermittent driveability issues. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it seems like the pressure is fine: ~2.4 bar at idle, 3.1 bar at engine off (3.09 bar pressure regulator). However I was told that the pressure test by itself is not sufficient for diagnosing fuel pump problems and a volume test must be performed - measuring the volume of the fuel pushed by the pump in a set amount of time by disconnecting the line and directing the flow into some kind of a vessel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand why a separate volume test is necessary if the pressure shows up fine. Doesn't the fuel pressure &lt;em&gt;depend&lt;/em&gt; on the volume of fuel being pushed? Doesn't low volume equal low pressure? Is this only required when measuring pressure immediately after the pump, rather than at the rail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T11:38:29.107" Title="Why is a volume test necessary when diagnosing fuel delivery problems?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-injection|pressure|fuel-pump|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23634" CreationDate="2015-12-22T12:20:41.393" Score="5" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;All attempts to loosen the tie-rod jam nuts on my 2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport have failed. Im about to resort to heating it with a blow torch, but want to ensure that I won't be ruining the nut and tie rod when I do this. The parts honestly look pretty new, but I know that the previous owner replaced them and probably wrenched these nuts down far too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reuse these parts after they've been heated? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general rule about replacing heated parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these nuts a standard size? Or would I have to replace my inner tie rod just to get a nut? I can't seem to find them online ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:36:20.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:36:20.593" Title="replace heat-loosened tie rod parts?" Tags="|subaru|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23633" CreationDate="2015-12-22T12:35:50.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A garage mechanic would have an oxy-acetylene torch on the nut straight away.  I have seen them do that on one of my cars and I didn't like it. If you didn't want to use heat, you could cut the nut off and replace it with a new one.  There shouldn't be anything special about the nut that would make it difficult to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T12:35:50.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2015-12-22T13:33:06.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fuel pump is designed to provide 3 to 4 times the needed maximum volume of fuel to the engine. The excess fuel is then returned back to the tank through the pressure regulator and return line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the fuel pressure is low it is very obvious that something in the fuel system is having a problem. It could be a bad fuel pressure regulator, plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, just to name a few. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the pump can only provide lets say half the maximum volume the pump can still provide the pressure making this condition much harder to diagnose. Further the symptoms of this kind of failure are usually drivability related. What happens is that at idle the engine only uses a small amount of fuel and it runs fine. When the fuel consumption hits the spot where the consumption is greater than what the pump can provide the pressure drops off and some type of drivability issue occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of issue can be caught one of two ways. The first is a volume test. The second is by connecting a fuel pressure gauge in such a way that it could be looked at while driving. If under load the fuel pressure drops off then you found your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T11:38:29.107" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T11:38:29.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23438" CreationDate="2015-12-22T13:47:04.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is as high as it will go. Loosen the jam nuts in the center of both the upper and lower tubes, a total of 4. Loosen the allen screws facing down equal amounts, upper and lower. Once you achieve the right height you want, tighten all the jam nuts. Then realign the vehicle. If the screw on the bottom is close to the ground, measure the amount of screw sticking out, remove the screw and cut that amount off the back of the screw. Re-Install and you will now have more ground clearance. Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13800" LastEditorUserId="7763" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T14:34:38.387" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T14:34:38.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T14:17:18.650" Score="5" ViewCount="4548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Fiesta 1.4 tdci 2003 that was working without issues since yesterday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just stopped at house after work to eat, 2 hours later I went to the car and it wouldn't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried hard but it just doesn't, lights are fine and all the electronics, no lights on the panel other that expected, the start engine sound is perfect so it must be something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just took a bus and this morning I tried again without luck. Took it to a shop where they tried pumping to take out the air and tried, nothing. Then they put a vag-com (I think) and told me that they can see errors but are no able to read them and therefore they sent me to a Ford shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took the card to Ford, gave the mechanic the keys, and it just starts perfectly fine like always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was unable to give me a explanation and since it just came the same way it just went away I took the car with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car now seems to work fine, starts and stops well, but I'm afraid of it coming again tomorrow morning, for me there are only 3 things that has changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumping&#xA;Could be that pumping a lot, since it was done before going to the shop without and done in the shop much more again, but maybe the movement of taking it from shop to shop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vag-com&#xA;Is possible that they have done something without knowing and fixed it? They didn't test again afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature&#xA;I noticed the temperature was around 12° when it didn't work for the first time, when they tried in the shop it was maybe 16° and the car was under sun for a long time, when it finally worked it was maybe 18, it has shown a little bad sound when starting in the morning at -2° but always at the first time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can it be, what reasons are for a engine not starting and suddenly doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has just started fine this morning, and it was much cooler than yesterday, I think this cannot be related to temperature, but one of the other options has solved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13801" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:26:09.297" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:26:09.297" Title="Diesel engine suddenly doesn't start and returns to normal without aparent reason" Tags="|ford|starting|diesel|fiesta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2015-12-22T14:40:32.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the fuel rail, kept at pressure p by the regulator. The fuel pump adds some amount a of fuel into the rail, increasing the pressure in the rail by some amount. Now injectors inject amount b to be burned into the cylinders. If a is larger than b, the regulator flows amount a-b back to tank, keeping the rail still at pressure p.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the pump is defective and supplies amount smaller than b the regulator can't increase the pressure, resulting in a drop in p. This will cause injectors to flow less than was intended, causing the mixture to go lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note: production of flow is probably a function of back pressure on the pump, so I would take the test volume from the regulator back-flow line when the regulator is set to maximum pressure (vacuum line disconnected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13780" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T15:42:04.030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:42:04.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23633" CreationDate="2015-12-22T14:59:42.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how  much you heat them. My personal preference is to replace parts that get removed with heat. Specially critical ones like tie rods. They are not expensive and you would still require an alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nuts are a standard size, but they all vary by vehicle/model. Its not a custom nut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I reuse these parts after they've been heated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't. Because I don't know how high the temperature was when heated. Anything above 350 degrees F can weaken the metal. You can go over 350F easily with a blow torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a general rule about replacing heated parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only reuse those that are not safety critical. Like exhaust components, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T14:59:42.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23630" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:00:48.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a physical copy at junkyard. They are cheap (and sometimes free). Call around (dont email) and get yourself one. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:00:48.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23617" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:13:09.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention having a bad door latch and having to slam the door. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove interior panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fish out all of the loose parts. Including bolts/nuts in the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the window all the way up (fully closed) try and mount the motor in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolt it in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition switch on and test it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to the motor &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; regulator (the part that raises the window itself).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the motor move but the window did not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the connection between the motor and regulator. A bad coupling means the motor spins but does not engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the regulator rails and cables. Are they bent? Broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the motor not move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check you are getting current at the motor connector by hitting the switch with the key in the on position and measuring volts with a multimeter. Anything less than 11.5V means the switch, relay or wiring is/are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go through the circuit with the volt meter. You will find the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the regulator is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply remove the window and place it somewhere safe (dont lay it down because it increases the chances of someone stepping on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the regulator and install a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-connect the rest of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:13:09.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23656" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:18:15.400" Score="1" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#1.4_R4_16v_TSI.2FTFSI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TSI&lt;/a&gt; engine but auto is not VW. I wonder if these engines come along with intercooler or is it just oil cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way of identifiying as I can open the bonnet and notice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: it is 2012 octavia 1.4 tsi 96kw/125hp&#xA;in the link I gave it says motor comes with water intercooler but only thing I can recognise is radiator :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastEditorUserId="10448" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T16:16:54.470" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:11:55.813" Title="VWAG TSI engines and intercooler" Tags="|turbocharger|skoda|octavia|intercooler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:22:00.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that under normal operation spark advance is &#xA;  directly proportional to RPM, i.e. as RPM increases so does spark advance &#xA;  due to the need to ignite the AFM earlier the quicker the piston is &#xA;  moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect. It depends on the application. Your vehicle, which is old in terms of engine controls and technology, will tend to try and advance spark at idle and run a little lean for emissions purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new vehicle that has direct injection, variable valve timing (and possibly lift) will usually (not a rule of thumb, though) run less timing due to the fuel being injected at higher pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my many adventures tuning high performance turbocharged cars, the timing is black magic that varies from car to car. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:22:00.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23608" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:27:01.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your ignition switch is bad. Its common to replace it when you replace the key lock barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it sound bad to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If broken internally, the switch will move from off to on and to run, but will not recoil back to the on position. Don't replace anything else until you look into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not only annoying but a big safety issue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:27:01.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23637" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:29:05.213" Score="-3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it has shown a little bad sound when starting in the morning at -2° but always at the first time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me you should leave the car at the mechanic overnight and have him check it first thing in the (cold) morning. Anything else is pure speculation and a waste of time. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:29:05.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:40:59.400" Score="2" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide me with a lookup table (reliable of course), or a plot (with exact plot to scale) for CO, NOx, HC emission from a SI engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I am also looking for the same with for a diesel engine (for diesel, obviously not a plot with AFR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is Hyundai I10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T01:11:35.137" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T01:11:35.137" Title="CO, NOx, HC plot with AFR Table" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-24T19:51:30.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23642" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:50:45.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help to know what engine you do have if it's not Volkswagen group and to which vehicle it is fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An intercooler is easy to identify as it will be fitted in the air intake pipework, effectively plumbed into the turbocharger / air filter / throttle body ducting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:50:45.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23940" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:53:04.780" Score="5" ViewCount="2127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed a rattle/humming sound when starting my 2015 Toyota Highlander. It happened 3 times, all in the last week or so. It could be cold-related (around freezing temps). It sounds like some electric motor, similar to what a large computer fan would do. From the cabin, it was clearly louder than the rest of the car engine. Car heating and fan was off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately parked, and it &lt;strong&gt;continued for about 5 seconds&lt;/strong&gt;, when I stopped the car, after cutting the engine. So, I ruled out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rattling object in the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating/fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there is some pump or other component that could produce this sound. Pump that maintain oil pressure, maybe ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what those components could be ? How critical could such a sound be, e.g. how urgently should I go back to the mechanic/dealership ? There are no check-engine lights or anything else indicating a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: regular V6 engine, not hybrid or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13802" LastEditorUserId="13802" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T18:53:44.190" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T14:05:59.193" Title="Toyota Highlander 2015 rattle sound at (cold) start" Tags="|toyota|cold-start|rattle|highlander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-12-22T16:18:45.583" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to the dealership ASAP. Not the kind of noise you want to ignore or even try to diagnose on here. Leave it overnight for them to check on cold-start and cold temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T16:18:45.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23637" CreationDate="2015-12-22T17:44:56.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very possible that you have a problem in the glow-plugs of your diesel engine. Glow-plugs are used to preheat the combustion chamber on a cold engine. If you're having problems starting the car when it's cold, the glow plugs are probably not working, or there not on long enough to heat the chamber properly. You also mention that it has a bad sound when it's -2 deg, it's probably a knocking sound, and you get black smoke from the tail pipe, when the car warms up it goes away. All these symptoms point to an issue with the glow plugs. My old Mercedes diesel allowed the driver to hold the start switch in the 'glow' position as long as you wanted to, so you just had to know to glow it longer on a cold morning. Your car most likely has a sensor/computer controlled glow time, so maybe it's just an adjustment or a bad sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T17:44:56.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:13:20.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced a similar fault on a car where the ABS would come on unexpectedly.  This turned out to be a worn wheel bearing which was allowing the gap between the reluctor ring and the abs sensor to vary slightly, which confused the ABS. It was some time before any other symptoms of a worn bearing became noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:13:20.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13340" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:19:21.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost always the problem with the FOB is that the conductive carbon coating on the keypad wears out. If you replaced the battery and it still doesn't work, try this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the fob apart, and you'll see a circuit board under the rubber key pad. The circuit board has a mesh under the rubber contact for unlock, start, etc. Take a screw, or a rolled up section of foil, and touch the mesh contacts under the one that doesn't work - if the car starts (unlocks) then the rubber keypad is worn out and needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just go on Amazon and search for '2005 Volvo FOB repair kit' or similar, they are really cheap - $10 - $20, then replace the old keypad and you should be back in business. No need to re-key. I just did this on my 2009 Chevy HHR and it works great. Of course the dealer was trying to get us to re-key for $400! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T18:40:01.727" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:40:01.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15659" CreationDate="2015-12-22T19:06:36.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not certain I agree with any of the assessment on this link, with the exception of the one that states, if it is consistently low / or empty, you have a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima with 196.000 miles on it and recently the reservoir tank has been consistently low, even after refilling it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would contend, that if this very same scenario is happening to others, there is indeed a problem. The radiator is a sealed unit, so constantly having to refill any overflow tank is , in and of itself telling you something else is going on. Head Gasket, water Pump, Hoses and a host of other possibilities.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13808" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T19:11:00.417" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T19:11:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23642" CreationDate="2015-12-22T19:18:49.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A water cooled intercooler is simple. The intercooler core (where the compressed hot air passes through) is submerged in water from the cooling system (sometimes a separate cooling system). That way the water absorbs the heat and lowers the air's temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system has various components. For which the locations are near or in front of the radiator and near or in the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Images/Water%20to%20air%20intercooler1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Images/Water%20to%20air%20intercooler1.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T19:18:49.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23642" CreationDate="2015-12-22T19:44:30.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To properly answer your question, yes your car has an inter-cooler. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/VW_Golf_and_SEAT_Leon_18T_Alloy_Side_Mount_Intercooler--product--715.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to Forge site&lt;/a&gt; to a replacement for your OEM one (this prove the existence of the stock one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find any definitive answer but as far as I can tell most (see lower) VW engines with turbos have an inter-cooler. It is generally located behind the bumper on either side of the car (not in front of the radiator) in front of the inner fender. From my own limited experience it is generally on the drivers side of the car (North America), so left side. I don't know how this applies to other models where the driver is on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some time to do some research and it seems some older diesel engines came without an inter-cooler. Also has I have found, from the comment from Paulster2, some cars with transverse engines have the inter-cooler on the right side of the car. I also added a picture of where the inter-cooler is located in a Jetta (on your car it should be approximately the same location on either side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3HAtE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3HAtE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:11:55.813" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:11:55.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:32:09.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Preamble&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Because it's important)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let's talk about fuel pumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel pumps found in most OEM fuel delivery setups today are driven by an electric motor that is running at a fixed speed. This effectively fixes the flow rate and discharge pressure provided by the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flow rate and pressure deviate over time due to several reasons which include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clogging of the inlet filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn seals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brushes in the electric motor wear out (though this wouldn't explain a low flow rate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel regulators in a return-style setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into the nitty-gritty of how fuel regulators operate, the key thing to remember here is that it alters the amount of fuel returned back to the fuel tank to ensure that a fixed pressure drop is maintained across the fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the classical relationship between pressure drop and flow rate is not respected. In fact, fuel rail pressure is almost constant regardless of flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why measuring pressure isn't sufficient&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low fuel pressure measurement at the rail might indicate a clogged fuel filter, some obstruction in the fuel line or a fuel pump that just can't deliver a high enough pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the pressure-stabilizing effect of the fuel regulator means that the fuel rail pressure measurement doesn't tell us anything about the adequacy of the fuel flow rate (from the perspective of the flow demanded by the fuel injectors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reason for the flow rate test; you can have good fuel rail pressure but insufficient flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this test, my Bosch book says that most manufacturers specify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;[fuel] delivery of one litre in 30 seconds or less, but check your manual.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T11:44:22.193" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T11:44:22.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15659" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:41:42.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be normal. Presure builds up in the cooling system when driving so it can look like it's below L. Best way to check the level of the coolant would be on the cold engine or to carefully let the pressure out of the system buy slowly turning the reservoirs cap. WARNING! If the pressure is in the system and engine is hot it might burn your hands or something else so be really careful and turn the cap really slowly and stop as soon you hear fizzling. after it stops fizzling turn the cap a little bit more and do this little by little till all the pressure is out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T20:41:42.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23660" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:48:48.417" Score="7" ViewCount="26218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an FI light on my Kawasaki motorcycle that is 2002 or newer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get the error codes so I can troubleshoot it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T06:08:47.767" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T20:08:16.877" Title="How do I pull error codes from my Kawasaki motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|cel|electronic-control-module|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23659" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:49:06.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How do I pull error codes from my Kawasaki motorcycle?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are the instructions to pull error codes from your 2001 or later Kawasaki street motorcycle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pull off your seat and near the battery negative terminal there will be a self diagnosis lead coming out of a connector.  The wire is yellow.  It looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Get a wire, one with alligator clips on either side is what I use.  Makes things a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the alligator clip to the yellow wire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Turn the ignition switch to the 'ON' position and wait a few seconds for the start procedure to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Attach the lead to the batter negative (ground)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Watch your FI light.  It will begin to blink long and short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 6&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You will now interpret the flashes into a numerical value using the following table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interpreting Error Codes&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The FI light will be flashing long and short blinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long blinks represent 10 through 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short blinks represent 1-9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get three long flashes followed by 4 short the error code would 34 and you can reference on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kawasaki Dirt Bikes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This technique does not apply to Kawasaki dirt bikes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have additional information regarding Kawasaki error codes in various dealer modes, please please message and provide links and I will add it to this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Images pulled from ocmoto.com&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T04:49:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6166" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:55:11.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Need the FI Error Codes First&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There multiple possible answers as to why your FI light is on but this is a bit of a guessing game unless you pull codes using the following procedure.  This is a workaround from using the official Kawasaki dealer tool to get your fuel injection related error codes.  Once you have collected the error codes you can now begin to troubleshoot your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is the procedure to get Kawasaki fuel injection system error codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pull off your seat and near the battery negative terminal there will be a self diagnosis lead coming out of a connector.  The wire is yellow.  It looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Get a wire, one with alligator clips on either side is what I use.  Makes things a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the alligator clip to the yellow wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Turn the ignition switch to the 'ON' position and wait a few seconds for the start procedure to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Attach the lead to the batter negative (ground)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Watch your FI light.  It will begin to blink long and short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 6&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You will now interpret the flashes into a numerical value using the following table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interpreting Error Codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FI light will be flashing long and short blinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long blinks represent 10 through 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short blinks represent 1-9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get three long flashes followed by 4 short the error code would 34 and you can reference on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:27:24.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23593" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:08:31.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, it is meant to operate this way. That being said, many of the vehicle specific online forums talk about how to disable it, to allow manual control. Searching, I didn't find a way to do that for your generation Voyager. For the prior generation, it was possible to disassemble and modify the HVAC control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one has reported a way to do this on the Chrysler minivan fan club forum, but it &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/6437-Defeat-A-C-on-defrost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has been discussed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T21:08:31.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:50:58.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer my own question: I contacted another mechanic with this issue who fixed it in no time. I feel quite stupid now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was indeed with the fuel line. The fuel line was clogged with some bits of grass that had fallen in during refilling. But it was clogged in such a &quot;creative&quot; way that the fuel pump was able to pull some fuel through it before it closed up like a valve, giving the impression that everything was fine upon inspection. &lt;em&gt;sigh&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12502" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T21:50:58.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21476" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:36:12.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, you only have 4 (4th being over drive) and no sport mode. Here is a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scion.com/assets/pdf/quickReference/2007_Scion_tC_ReferenceGuide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quick Reference PDF file download&lt;/a&gt;, though it really doesn't say a whole lot. It just shows the operation of the transmission lever. Should just be able to put it in Drive and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So (D)rive is my 4th gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is. Put the selector in &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; and you should be golden. If it is not going into over drive while your selector is in this position, you may have a transmission issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:36:12.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23646" CreationDate="2015-12-23T00:58:46.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Combustion Chemistry from Princeton&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't much of an answer but here is some data from a Princeton class related to Combustion Chemistry.  You will see that the table you are looking for is plotted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.princeton.edu/ssp/64-tiger-cub-1/64-data/combustion-chemistry.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the link to the PDF.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Manufacturers of Emission Controls Association&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a study from Manufacturers of Emission Controls Association.  They have some plotting and graphs that seem relative to what you are seeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meca.org/resources/MECA_stationary_IC_engine_report_0515_final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the link to the PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chemical Society Reviews&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This document does not address exactly what you are looking for but it does have an excellent reference list that I suggest you parse.  There are many citations and some of them are very good.  If you aren't Chem101 level, it might not be for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gradadm.ifsc.usp.br/dados/20102/FCM0102-5/Automotive%20fuels%20and%20internal%20combustion%20engines_a%20chemical%20perspective.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the link to their study in PDF.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T01:05:38.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2015-12-23T02:45:08.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have a bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT in Ford nomenclature). The code P0116,the smell of gas, and the rough idle are all symptoms of a bad ECT. Its Ford's part number &lt;strong&gt;F5AF-12A648-AA&lt;/strong&gt;. Get the OEM part. Its about $25. Be careful replacing it because your car has a plastic intake manifold that tends to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T02:45:08.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23711" CreationDate="2015-12-23T05:18:06.020" Score="2" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;To set your expectations, I haven't owned a car before. The only experience that I have with cars is for 20+ hours (this was driving school).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having read discussions about buying a new car vs a pre-owned car, the point I understood was that you have to be very knowledgeable on cars if you plan to get a 2nd hand car because there would be a lot of DIYs that will happen, and I'm still pursuing getting a 2nd hand car. I know I have a lot to learn about cars, but my question for now is what are the things that I need to check on a car to make sure there are no hidden defects or major problems that it would be considered unacceptable to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13812" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:51:43.570" Title="I'm planning to buy a 2nd hand car, how do I know if a car won't give me headaches in the future?" Tags="|maintenance|car|old-cars|buying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-24T10:33:07.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-12-23T06:59:33.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design of the engine is going to have a lot to do with how easy the bike is to ride. Is it a V-twin, parallel twin, single, or inline 4? Different engine designs handle throttle response very differently. An inline 4 might get you into trouble if you accidentally give it too much throttle at the wrong time. V-twins tend to have a lot more low end torque. Parallel Twins and Singles are great beginner bikes, but they tend to not have very high displacement. Also the style of bike (Cruiser, Standard, Touring, etc.) will have a lot to do with it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13562" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T06:59:33.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23667" CreationDate="2015-12-23T07:26:06.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try and have a mechanic look it over and run the VIN if at all possible. You can also look up the make and model year and see if there were any Re-calls/Factory service bulletins or pattern failures that you should be aware of. Other than that, you could do basic stuff like check the fluids and maybe test drive it and listen carefully for any noises. Let go of the wheel on a straight, level road and see if it pulls to the left or right to check the alignment. Do the same when braking. Ask the owner for service records.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13562" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T07:26:06.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18813" CreationDate="2015-12-23T07:32:42.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From SwedeSpeed: &quot;It can range from a bad speed sensor, ABS sensor, bad yaw sensor, steering wheel position sensor of even a bad DEM.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scan for fault codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13562" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T07:32:42.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2015-12-23T07:50:05.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally figured out the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/22686/7132&quot;&gt;I had a defective O2 / Lambda sensor, which I replaced&lt;/a&gt;.  However, this had little or no noticeable effect on the problem.  The valve cover gasket was completely shot, with oil constantly coming out and also leaking into the spark plug holes.  I fixed the gasket, which also didn't solve the problem.  However, I read a post ( which I can't find at the moment ) in which someone was suffering the same symptoms and also had oil leaking into the plug holes. He changed the gasket and the plugs, wires and coil which solved his problem.  So I took a known good plug and used it to do a spark test.  I saw I had good spark at each wire, but decided to change the plugs since the insulators looked a bit burnt, hoping that would help.  Well, it did!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4yfw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4yfw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had actually asked about the plugs previously, but everyone said they looked fine, so I went on a wild goose chase checking a million different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try and follow with a more detailed answer later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT March 20th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has eliminated about 80% of the problem, but after driving around for a while I realized that the problem is still there, just at a greatly reduced intensity, including both the hesitation and the rough idle.  The replacement plugs I used are NGK G-Power plugs with a fine tip, which according what I've read in various places: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/iridium-spark-plugs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a much lower voltage is required to jump the spark gap&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is true, it makes me suspect that the great reduction in hesitation and wobble when revving the engine may be due to the lower voltage requirement, indicating that the coil pack is getting weak.  I've attempted to test this theory by using a adjustable gap spark tester, however my results have been inconclusive since I don't know &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27320/what-is-the-output-voltage-for-the-mazda-626-gf-2l-98-2002-coil-pack?lq=1&quot;&gt;what voltage I should be testing&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/27366/7132&quot;&gt;what the resultant spark should look like&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT Nov. 25th 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to a comment by @FredWilson on a different question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/38523/what-could-cause-flash-over-arcing-to-reappear-on-new-plugs&quot;&gt;about recurring arcing&lt;/a&gt; it became clear that when there is arcing on a plug, there is usually also a carbon trail on the inside of the plug boot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/otYGM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/otYGM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will contaminate the new plug fairly quickly and cause the misfire to return:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBsXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBsXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT Nov. 28th 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I pulled out all the plugs, and cleaned the porcelain sections and the plug boots with IPA and 320 grit sand paper to remove the carbon trails, then I slathered some 3M Silicone Paste ( dielectric grease ) on the porcelain part of the plugs and dabbed a little into the boots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good, the hesitation is gone and the increase in power is noticeable.  It seems to have helped somewhat with the idle as well, although that's really a separate and intermittent problem, which I suspect is due to either clogged / leaky injectors or a wonky fuel pressure regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T16:00:16.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4824" CreationDate="2015-12-23T07:55:16.183" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was mixing motor oil in the fuel tank of my petrol car for a year and it is giving me better performance on hills as well as the engine is still young because i am driving it very roughly still it has a very good pick up and performs really good. Quantity of oil I mix is about a single pouch in 10 liters of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13814" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T14:57:35.133" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T14:57:35.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23675" CreationDate="2015-12-23T08:25:02.820" Score="9" ViewCount="42414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello it's my first time here and I will try to address the issue as best as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left my keys in the ignition a few days back and hence my battery drained itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 12V maintainence-free battery and I want to charge it enough for just one crank. I found a 16v 1.5A adapter and 12V 4A adapter. They are probably old laptop chargers. Could I use anyone of them to charge it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading up about it and have seen cases where the wires have melted due to overheating and there are chances of explosion too. Normally a 14V adapter would be ideal but 12V or 16V should work too right? But I am worried about the Amperage since a heavy current will fast charge and damage the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I feel the 12V 4A adapter might not be able to charge the battery that efficiently,since a multimeter reading shows the battery to be at 11V and a 4A current might be too high. So the 16V seems like a better option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus my multimeter's Amperage measurement is damaged so I have no way to take current reading when connecting the battery to the 16V adapter. But could I connect them without a resistance since the current is only 1.4A and constantly check for overheating? I just need enough for one crank and the battery is new, not even a year old with no corrosions on the terminals or leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this was too long and thanks for any help/advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I really want to charge it on my own and understand there are risks involved. I'm planning to make a proper battery charger on my own in future, but for now I lack the technicalities involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T03:54:29.617" Title="Can I charge a 12V car battery with a 16V 1.5A adapter?" Tags="|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23674" CreationDate="2015-12-23T08:30:47.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 12v adapter would only be able to raise the battery voltage to 12v, but to charge a car battery fully you would need to raise the voltage to 13.8v.  The 16v adapter would raise the voltage too high and could cause damage.  A 4A maximum current would be fine and would not cause any damage, but you need a 13.8v source. Batteries like NiCd need an accurate constant current to charge them, lead acid batteries (e.g. car batteries) need an accurate constant voltage to charge them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T16:49:12.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T16:49:12.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-23T10:29:53.283" Score="3" ViewCount="2382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Opel Meriva which I run on 50% gas / 50% E85. According to my own experience and Meriva forums, this is about as much ethanol as the engine can take without tripping the engine electronics warning light. I've made at least 20,000 km on this kind of fuel, out of 200,000 km of total mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have noticed that ever since I started using E85, oil consumption has increased. The car burns about 1L/2500 km now, which is not terrible, but not great either. Unfortunately, I didn't happen to note how much oil I was using before, but I believe I have to top up twice as much now as I used to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the increase in oil consumption is due to E85, and is the effect permanent. I know I can just top up the oil and switch to pure gasoline for some time, but I wonder if someone already has an experience to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T05:11:10.167" Title="Does E85 fuel increase oil consumption?" Tags="|oil|gasoline|opel|ethanol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23681" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:14:35.477" Score="7" ViewCount="6879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2004 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport (2.5L EJ251 SOHC) a year ago and have found a leaking crankshaft seal. When going in to replace it, I see that the leak is probably caused by a small gouge (~ 1x1x2 mm) in the aluminum engine block on the sealing surface, toward the front of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repairs I feel I can do myself given my tools and experience are to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; pound the seal into the shaft housing deep enough to clear the gouge, which would be about 2-3 mm deeper than flush. would this cause a problem? seems like there's plenty of space back there ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt; fill with epoxy and file smooth with emery cloth. i've heard that JB Weld might do the trick, but also hear concerns about aluminum expanding differently than the epoxy. i don't want to cause more problems than i already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.&lt;/strong&gt; both of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, i am unable to weld aluminum (or any metal for that matter), so would have to bring to a machinist for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7084" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T17:33:11.023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:33:54.517" Title="Filling gouge on oil sealing surface in aluminum engine block" Tags="|engine|subaru|outback|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:46:03.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The E85 should not have any effect on oil consumption. E85 is just a fuel. It is my suggestion your vehicle is just getting to a stage where it is using more oil, either through burning (past the rings) or leaking out onto the ground past seals or gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought may be that you were actually using the oil before you started using E85, but didn't notice the difference. It could be that before the E85, more fuel was passing by the rings, going into the oil and supplementing the oil supply (many cars do this without being noticed between oil changes). This may have offset the loss which was already happening. To check either scenario, I'd suggest you go back to using plain gasoline (petrol) and not mixing in the E85 to see what difference it makes. At least you'd know if it is being caused by the E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what you are doing, I'd suggest you rethink using E85 for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ethanol has about 33% of the fuel energy of gasoline (petrol). Your fuel consumption is probably well above what it should be. Even with the decreased cost of the E85 (at least that's the way it usually works here in the States), using it even as a blend is not going to get you the performance per litre you'd get out of plain gasoline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most cars can take E10 (10% ethanol) without issue. If they were not designed as a flex fuel vehicle, running above this issue will cause damage to your seals and fuel lines. This takes time to occur, but have no doubt, &lt;em&gt;it is eating through the soft parts of your fuel system&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your engine is not built to change how it runs the ethanol, you could be introducing a lean situation into the engine, which may be causing your issues. If, because of this, you experience knock, you may be causing your engine damage. At a very minimum, your engine will be pulling timing to compensate, which means decreased performance and fuel mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there might be other reasons, but these are what stands out in my mind at the present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T14:46:03.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23674" CreationDate="2015-12-23T14:54:05.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this by saying, I don't think using a laptop adapter to charge a car battery is the way to go. If it's your only means to get it done, do it at your own risk ... that said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get your battery back to 12v using the 12v adapter, it should be enough to get your motor started. Then the alternator can take over and recharge the rest of the way. I had a battery in my truck going bad for some time. When I finally took it out to change it, it read a little over 10vdc, yet it was still able to start my truck (albeit the starter was complaining about it). Point is, 12vdc should be adequate to get the vehicle started. 13.1vdc at the battery is optimal (fully charged battery at rest), but 12vdc should get the job done. Ensure you don't have any extraneous power draws going on when you do this (ie: radio, lights, door open, etc). This will take away from the batteries ability to get the vehicle started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T14:54:05.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23677" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:35:34.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gouge probably came from somebody removing the seal with a screwdriver or pick. Not a big deal and very common. The fact that the seal was leaking does not mean that the gouge is causing it. Those seals expand very well and the OEM Subaru seals are really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would lightly (very lightly) sand the gouge with a very fine sandpaper. Then I would install the seal and forget about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you want to make absolutely sure and want to sleep at night?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a little JB Weld on it with a toothpick. Then with the same very fine sandpaper light (very lightly) sand it smooth. Install the seal and enjoy your new found peace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you don't want to use JB Weld?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some high temp (the red one) RTV will work fine. Also use a toothpick to put in just enough to cover the gouge. Don't put too much or it will be hard to remove if it ever starts leaking again (due to something unrelated to the gouge). Install the seal without waiting for the RTV to set (or wait, won't make a difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to use lots of RTV!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, knock yourself out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just make sure the RTV doesn't fall in the inner seal area!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T17:33:54.517" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:33:54.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23677" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:41:08.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many times in the past I've used an RTV called Right Stuff. It is very thick and tacky. Degrease everything then apply the RTV to the block surface and a little to the seal all the way around. Pound the seal in to the correct depth. Allow to set overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution has the lowest risk of screwing anything up. If the repair doesn't hold then the RTV can be removed easily. Applying the epoxy is much more dangerous. Applying is smoothly is difficult on a rounded surface and sanding may distort the roundness of seal surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RTV can seal minor imperfections in the sealing surface and if the seal is not a tight fit it can glue the seal in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:41:08.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:23:38.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's me, your future self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it turns out that you're an idiot and all you had to do was fiddle with the choke.  That little lever on the carb?  That's the choke.  I forget which way is open and which way is closed, but if you do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the ignition switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it doesn't start, move the choke lever to the other (closed) position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the ignition switch again.  Engine should start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly put the choke back to the open position (or engine will die again) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new starter motor you bought might not have been a total waste of money since the old one was spinning sometimes, but the new coil probably was.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Don't try to go under that bridge in 2 months.  It's too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:23:38.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:04:44.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to replace all of the brake fluid in an ABS system I always use a pneumatic fluid excavation tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an image.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fM5Pq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fM5Pq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I use this regardless of ABS or not.  It will create a vacuum at the caliper and the fluid will enter a waste container.  If you use clear tubes you can see if it's pulling air out of the system as well.  You continue to vacuum the system with the hand pump until you see fresh clear brake fluid which let's you know you have all of the old fluid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very effective and if you continue to replace the fluid as you pull it through air will not enter the brake system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the procedure&lt;/a&gt; for removing all of the brake fluid from your system and ensuring that the front and rear control circuits are properly bled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T00:04:33.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:04:33.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3586" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:19:51.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CBR900RR has the following attributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carb and FI versions depending on year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 Carbs or 4 throttle bodies, depending on year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two coil packs, 1 for cylinder 1 and 4, 1 for cylinder 2 and 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a coil were bad you would have an issue with two cylinders more than likely.  Coils going bad on high energy lead connection to the coil is very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single bad fuel injector is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single bad carb is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single high energy lead failing to a sparkplug is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single sparkplug bad is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possibilities&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A sticking float bowl on a single carb.  Check needle and seat and ensure the needle is dropping down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A tear in the CV diaphragm at the top of a single carb is possible.  This would create a very lean condition that would be more pronounced when your choke is engaged.  When you go off choke the vacuum is reduced and the lean condition is less evident.  While riding, downshift and go off throttle, if you get popping in your exhaust check the diaphragm.  This could be a source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As another post/comment indicated, you could have an oil fouled plug.  Do you have oil smoke coming out of your exhaust?  Take your finger and wipe it in the exhaust pipe exit.  If it's really black and oily then you may have a bad valve guide or rings.  If it's just black and sooty then your too rich.  If the color is not black but a bit brown, that's better and indicates a more normal mixture and lack of oil in the exhaust.  Rev the engine at night in front of car headlights and see if you see the smoke in the headlights, if it's very light you may not see it during the day.  Doing the headlight trick will reveal oil burning without question.  Be sitting on the motorcycle and look at the exhaust plume through the light.  Not the view from the car drivers position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad high energy lead.  Check the resistance of the lead to ensure it has very low ohm reading using a multimeter.  Validate spark by putting a sparkplug into the lead and turn the engine over while grounding it on your valve cover or other conductive and grounded component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad spark plug.  Make sure it isn't black and sooty.  Carbon is a conductive material.  If it's built up with black carbon it can ground the insulator and there will be no spark.  You can clean it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush and test again for spark as above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have multiple issues, you might have one.  Provide more information and I can edit this to reflect the data given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:52:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22815" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:19:55.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have correctly found a picture of the pump, then it looks like it has 2 wires for the pump and 2 wires for the fuel gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel gauge is not working, then you have clearly wired it incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check there is power getting to the new connector when you turn the ignition on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T19:28:21.113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T19:28:21.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23020" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:24:51.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the key clue here is the fact the engine runs rough for a few minutes.&#xA;This tells me that the cold-start enrichment, where the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is slightly rich, isn't taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be looking at partially clogged injectors causing this. The reason I think this is the cause is that you've ruled out fuel rail pressurization as an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to get away with just running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through the fuel tank. If that doesn't work the injectors may need to be taken out for more thorough conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T19:24:51.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12315" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:28:15.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody takes the &quot;BATTERY&quot;  for granted.  The battery is used everyday for about 5-8 years and people would like to believe that the problem could never their battery!.  No Power?   Check the battery first before installing new parts.  Get a used but GOOD battery and switch the batteries.  Try to start the car.  If it starts then do this several more times.  If it starts 10 times in a row then I guess you know what your problem was, if not then you will need to do a diagnostic on the vehicle.  check out the following video to learn &quot;How To Do A No Start-No Crank Diagnosis on your car. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwdBEENa7Is&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwdBEENa7Is&lt;/a&gt; If you are not going to do the work yourself then at least watch it to educate yourself before speaking with the mechanic.  Don't be fooled!  If you sound like you know what you're talking about the mechanic will be fooled and not you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T19:28:15.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22815" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:30:31.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you might have connected something wrong. Make sure that everything was spliced in properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes new pumps don't work very well (or at all). If the wiring is good do a test with the pressure side pumping into a gas can. That way you know if the new pump is a dud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQvKo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQvKo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the wiring diagram for the pump circuit.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schematic refers to platform OP asked about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T20:07:11.013" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T20:07:11.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1295" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:37:34.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carb. has probably shielded over.  The carburetor fuel wets the screen inside and if not used dries up creating a shield over the screen (It's kind of like a dry shellac) and will restrict air flow.  You may need to remove this screen to clean it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T19:37:34.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12424" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:41:21.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multi-cylinder vehicles with multiple carbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To port this question over to applicability with cars.  This is the same issue that has plagued older Ferrari and Jaguar mechanics over the years.  The 'balancing act'.  If you have a V12 and 6 or 12 carbs, getting them all balanced and uniformly restrictive in terms of allowing air into them can be very challenging.  MOST multi-cylinder motorcycles have 1 carburetor or throttle body per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suzuki GSX250&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the factory, your fuel screw is blocked by a small aluminum plug.  You cannot adjust air/fuel ratio (AFR) on this bike until you drill out the plugs.  They are very easy to remove.  They are dangerous to drill out.  If you penetrate through the aluminum plug you can push your drill down to the brass air adjustment screw and turn it all the way in.  There is a needle at the end that will enter the air galley and get stuck.  When you try and turn it out the pin snaps off into the air galley which provides proper AFR at idle and just off idle, since it's an air galley, it will be rich on that cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AFR and carburetor synchronization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do interact but have very little effect on one another.  That being said,  if you give one cylinder a super lean condition and the other a super rich one you can effect the synchronization.  As well, the inverse is not true.  If you have one carburetor set open too much and the other one closed off, their AFR won't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Response&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concern&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real concern here is that at idle and when synchronized the bike doesn't run good.  When you balance by ear it seems to run smoother.  This is indicative of another issue.  You mentioned white smoke, that's oil.  Your theory that the air filter is too restrictive could have merit but honestly, it's an outlier statistically.  Check the air box before the filter.  If you have a bunch of oil in there then it could be that you have a bad PVC valve in your valve cover OR excessive blow-by due to bad rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon the information provided here is what I believe.  You have one of your cylinders that has bad compression.  That's why it runs unevenly when the carbs are balanced.  (Quit thinking of AFR right now)  If one cylinder runs more efficiently than the other then it will be out of balance.  It being the engine.  When you are synchronizing the carbs by ear and making the engine run smoother you are compensating for the poor compression of one of the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a compression test with a compression tool or you can perform a leak down test to see where air is escaping by listening to the PVC for sounds (bad rings), the exhaust for sound (bad exhaust valve adjustment, burnt valve, bad valve somehow, or listening at the intake (bad valve adjustment, bad valve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil source for the smoke could be bad valve guides, bad valve guide seals or bad rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T18:42:22.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2015-12-23T19:52:47.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a lean condition if it is popping and backfiring through the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon the data you've given thus far I would remove the float bowl and blast out all of the jets, in particular your pilot jet.  Get a small piece of copper wire that will fit through the jet and make sure you don't have blockage.  This is common. The XL fuel filter in the gas tank is garbage and very small particles get through it.  Depending on year, there was recall.  Put an inline fuel filter between the fuel tank and the carb in fuel line, just cuz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perform the same as above with the main jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the carburetor cleaner to blast out the air and fuel gallies in the carburetor body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Validate that your intake manifold (rubber) is soft and pliable.  If it's hard and cracked you could have an air leak at the manifold.  Symptoms would be high idle that falls slowly to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the small aluminum plug at the top of the carburetor between the manifold boot and the top of the carburetor.  You find an air screw there.  Adjust the air screw a half turn in and test.  Wash repeat this until the popping goes away.  This is last, after you ensure your lean condition is not caused by the other issues.  It might seem counter-intuitive but checking your previous work seems more important and that's how I would approach it.  Either way, get access to that and adjust as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:42:20.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23696" CreationDate="2015-12-23T20:03:05.900" Score="1" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Pontiac Vibe is affected by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-takata-airbags-idUSKBN0U61OS20151223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;deadly passenger-side airbag&lt;/a&gt; recall.  We received a letter months ago advising us that there are no replacement parts available.  Until there are, we're supposed to avoid sitting in the front passenger seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle also has an extremely sensitive passenger seat switch.  Something as light as a purse can activate the fasten seat belt alarm.  The alarm goes off after driving for a few minutes, which creates a dangerous distraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both of these reasons, I'm considering disconnecting the seat switch.  Would this disable the airbag?  Is there any reason not to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13823" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T03:20:50.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T03:20:50.063" Title="Disconnect seat switch to disable airbag?" Tags="|pontiac|supplemental-restraint-system|vibe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2015-12-23T20:41:35.257" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these compression figures mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that much when the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon the information you have provided I see no indication that the rings are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You aren't burning any oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do not have oily carbon buildup on your spark plugs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad rings will almost always give you those two symptoms, if they aren't sealing well against the cylinder walls you burn oil.  That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point of interest is that you have a shim and bucket valve train.  More on that later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an image of a shim and bucket valve train.  Notice that there are no rocker arms or push rods.  The cam acts directly on the bucket and shim which acts directly on the valve stem.  You adjust the valves by changing out different shims to get the appropriate valve clearence.  In this image, the shim is below the bucket.  This is what the CBR has.  It's called an Under the Bucket Shim.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2QiB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2QiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Errata&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other posters have told you to buy new pistons and rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy new rings, you will need to have a new nikasil coating put on all of your cylinders.  No shops that I have encountered offer this as a service.  You have to have them either ship it out to their provider or you find one and send it off to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bore your cylinders and put the 1st step overbore into the bike you may as well send it out to a place that does the nikasil.  If you skip the nikasil, the rings will quickly wear out and you will have an issue.  The rings are designed to be integrated and partnered with a nikasil coated cylinder wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link explaining the virtues of nikasil.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, since none of this really applies, let's move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though your compression went up with the oil in the cylinder that is not proof that the rings are bad.  It just seals them up a bit better from normal compression loss and helps to increase the compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you are experiencing is out of adjustment valves.  The symptoms are these depending on the severity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard starting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rough idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor low RPM response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power loss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is counter-intuitive.  You are looking for no valve clearance as opposed to too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shim and bucket setup will lead to zero clearance situations where the valve can actually hang open and there is a tiny gap between the valve seat and valve face in the head. When this condition arises the vehicle is hard starting, poor idling and generaly runs like a bag of hammers. One valve hanging open can lead to a very poor running/idling condition that improves with higher RPM. Running a compression test can give you breadcrumbs and hints but a leak down test will truly determine if this condition is occurring. It's a very common issue and is considered general maintenance to adjust your valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens as the valves get extremely hot and get a ring beat into the face from the valve seat where the valve is making contact with the face.  The engine  then  cools, and the valve shortens a bit.  You get into a situation where the condition can get worse when the engine heats up and the valve doesn't make contact with face.  It will actually hang open just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the mechanical beating of the valve face against the valve seat, you get a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is adjust the valves.  You remove the cams after measuring everything out with a feeler gauge and document the gaps and then subtract the value you need to get valve clearance and goto the Honda shop and order up some shims.  Be sure you put the shims in a cupcake baking pan or an ice tray, something where you can keep track of where they go, exhaust cylinder 3 etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it.  I could be wrong but I firmly believe this is the issue that you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T06:17:38.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11497" CreationDate="2015-12-23T20:54:28.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GSXR 750 has the following attributes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carb and FI versions depending on year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 Carbs or 4 throttle bodies, depending on year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two coil packs, 1 for cylinder 1 and 4, 1 for cylinder 2 and 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a coil were bad you would have an issue with two cylinders more than likely.  Coils going bad on high energy lead connection to the coil is very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single bad fuel injector is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single bad carb is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single high energy lead failing to a sparkplug is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single sparkplug bad is possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Possibilities&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A sticking float bowl on a single carb.  Check needle and seat and ensure the needle is dropping down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A tear in the CV diaphragm at the top of a single carb is possible.  This would create a very lean condition that would be more pronounced when your choke is engaged.  When you go off choke the vacuum is reduced and the lean condition is less evident.  While riding, downshift and go off throttle, if you get popping in your exhaust check the diaphragm.  This could be a source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As another poster indicated, you could have an oil fouled plug.  Do you have oil smoke coming out of your exhaust?  Take your finger and wipe it in the exhaust pipe exit.  If it's really black and oily then you may have a bad valve guide or rings.  If it's just black and sooty then your too rich.  If the color is not black but a bit brown, that's better and indicates a more normal mixture and lack of oil in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad high energy lead.  Check the resistance of the lead to ensure it has very low ohm reading using a multimeter.  Validate spark by putting a sparkplug into the lead and turn the engine over while grounding it on your valve cover or other conductive and grounded component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad spark plug.  Make sure it isn't black and sooty.  Carbon is a conductive material.  If it's built up with black carbon it can ground the insulator and there will be no spark.  You can clean it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush and test again for spark as above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have multiple issues, you might have one.  Provide more information and I can edit this to reflect the data given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T20:54:28.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:05:05.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can run that fuel.  I've run a 100 hours of aviation fuel through plus another 200 hours of race fuel that tends to destroy FI fuel pumps in various years of RM.  I have a friend that is currently campaigning one in a vintage class race series.  It's a 1978 RM250.  It's fine.  Two years since the last rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't have a fuel pump so you don't have to worry, if you did, then you drain the gas after each use and get the tank dry and then put in a little regular gas to let it sit until your next use.  AV gas eats fuel pumps if left to sit.  I don't know the exact degradation process from a chemist view, I just know from experience.  Most high octane race gas does this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel will not hurt your bottom end.  They are lubricated by oil in you put into your fuel.  The fuel will not effect your oil mixture.  Oil is miscible in gasoline.  It mixes into evenly like vodka into cranberry juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have raced two strokes or have been apart of a club effort racing them since I was 17, I'm 48 now.  I've run higher than what you propose octane fuel in RG500 Gamma's, NSR 250R's, CR's and RM's. Your bike will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The myth that a higher octane fuel will damage your bottom end is exactly that, a myth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:05:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23692" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:09:02.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anything is done to the Airbag system that causes the light to come on, will cause the entire system to shut down. The only way to properly disable the passenger airbag is to unplug it and replace it with a SQUIB simulator. The simulator is a diagnostic tool that fools the Airbag computer into thinking that a functional SQUIB is still plugged in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:09:02.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:32:09.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if the need to spin the water pump faster is in question now, then wouldn't we need to look into a possibly failing water pump?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, the vehicle is over 14 years old and it's always possible that the water pump has never been changed.  It's possible that the fins on the pumps propeller have rusted down and are not forcing fluids as they should. If the motor cools off when you accelerate and then heats up again when you stop the vehicle or / vice-versa!  A failing Water Pump is worth looking into/ but &lt;strong&gt;only after you've ruled out the thermostat or faulty electrical&lt;/strong&gt; first. Watch this video to see a &lt;strong&gt;Rusty Water Pump Propeller&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt7_DhsTG_Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt7_DhsTG_Q&lt;/a&gt;  However, keep in mind that the problem here could also be as simple as a fan Motor / Electrical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T21:39:25.153" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:39:25.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23704" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:59:42.713" Score="6" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Aprilia Tuono, 2009.  It seems to run lean after putting an Akrapovic exhaust on it.  It makes exhaust popping sounds on deceleration.  My boyfriend said I need a power commander on it to make it richer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought Aprilia ECU's support flashing the ECU with a new map.  Can someone provide guidance on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T23:18:08.637" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:18:08.637" Title="2009 Aprilia RSV1000 - Piggy Back ECU, Should I get one?" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|electronic-control-module|lean|aprilia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:13:40.153" Score="9" ViewCount="4417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a gasoline-engine car that is four and half years old and has been driven for 60 000 kilometers. I have noticed that the fuel efficiency is not what it was when the car was new. However, I lived further away from the workplace and had a longer commute with lower speed limits when the car was new. So, my question is whether an old engine has worse fuel efficiency than a new one, or whether the the change in my fuel efficiency is due to a shorter commute with higher speed limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has been regularly serviced with oil changes at 15 000 kilometer intervals. The original oil was 0W-20 but I have noticed that in the annual service, 5W-30 oil has been installed. I have noticed that the engine sound when idle might have become somewhat louder than what it was when new, and I can barely hear very slight piston slap after cold start that fortunately becomes soon unhearable after the engine has slightly warmed. I know the engine has special piston coatings but am unsure whether they last for the whole lifetime of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least it seems to me that here in Finland where the purchasing tax and annual tax of a car is proportional to its fuel consumption, it is the incentive of the manufacturer to do whatever possible to lower the apparent fuel consumption, even if the solution doesn't last for the whole lifetime of the car. After all, the fuel consumption tests are made for new cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T02:51:23.607" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T18:01:51.103" Title="Will an old engine have worse fuel efficiency than a new engine?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23699" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:20:51.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that it would perform worse over time since parts are going to be worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand piston rings can become worn out and not seal the piston very well in the cylinder.  If that happens then the combustion gasses can move past the rings and get into the inside of the engine.  That would be wasted energy and would make your fuel efficiency worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T22:20:51.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24983" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:25:53.387" Score="7" ViewCount="11307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should provide a little background to this issue as I believe the two are most likely related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a &lt;strong&gt;Ford Focus 2008 1.6 TDCi Diesel (UK)&lt;/strong&gt; which this year has had a brand new battery and alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most recently I got the error code P242F stating that the diesel particulate filter was blocked with an ash accumulation. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22794/ford-focus-with-error-code-p242f-dpf-failure&quot;&gt;I have been able to resolve this issue&lt;/a&gt; by blanking the EGR valve this past Saturday (19th Dec) and everything has been working well since, or so I thought...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning on the way to work I was driving down a straight and narrow country road at around 40mph when I suddenly found that pressing the accelerator was providing no power to the engine. A few moments later the battery and oil lights came on and the engine cut out so I drifted to a stop at the side of the road. I was immediately able to restart the car and tentatively drove the rest of the way to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some investigation I can confirm the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car doesn't stutter/judder or anything when it cuts out, in fact the first time I couldn't even tell it cut out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No error codes stored in the ECU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery and oil lights are a red herring, they will always illuminate if the engine automatically shuts down due to low revs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine must be at or over 3000 RPM in any gear, as long as I stay below this then the issue does not occur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine must be warm, the error doesn't seem to occur when it's cold but I'm not 100% on this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I press the clutch I can restart the engine immediately and carry on driving every time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't get this issue to occur when stationary, only when driving. This may be to do with the engine being warmed, but I had idled for some time before trying this to make sure it was warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete novice with cars but I'm pretty good at following instructions so after some research these are the things I was going to look at (in order) and wondered if anyone had some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have looked for any cracked or loose hoses but can't see/hear anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As part of fixing the DPF issue I removed and cleaned both the EGR and MAF first. I'm wondering if I haven't formed a good seal when replacing the MAF. I'm going to remove it and check the seals before replacing it again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't recall the fuel filter being changed in the last 2 years so I'll replace that for new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've heard that the Throttle Position Sensor is a common cause and since they're roughly £20 I'll replace for new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I'm out of ideas for things I can try myself. I'm looking to trade the car back into the dealership I bought it from early next year so I'm not spending a fortune replacing parts as it's not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13366" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T09:25:08.787" Title="Ford Focus engine cuts out at 3000+ RPM" Tags="|ford|diesel|focus|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23692" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:26:00.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disabling an air bag component doesn't seem like a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think on some systems if you disable a piece of it, it can disable the whole system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not any kind of an expert but messing with an airbag system seems like it could be very dangerous to you or your passengers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T22:26:00.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23710" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:45:05.723" Score="5" ViewCount="7697" Body="&lt;p&gt;When turning the steering wheel on my Citroen C4 Picasso (64 plate), the front end generates a &quot;whining noise&quot;. This noise happens regardless of whether the car is moving or not. It happens when the wheel is being turned quickly - by turning it slowly, the whining can be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is a medium pitched whirring as opposed to a high pitched sqealing sound that might be indicative of a slipping belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3072" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T23:40:48.853" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:40:48.853" Title="Citroen C4 Picasso - Whining noise when turning steering wheel" Tags="|noise|power-steering|citroen|picasso|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23698" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:46:46.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2009 Aprilia Tuono has a writeable ECU but you need the appropriate equipment from Aprilia in order to perform the task.  AFAIK there are no aftermarket tools to replace the ECU programming equipment provided only to Aprilia dealerships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, Aprilia recommends that you DO NOT put a piggyback ECU on it. It is one of the few manufacturers that actually puts out releases regarding this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason surrounds how the piggyback reinterprets data coming from the various sensors.  When the standard ECU says to the injector, put in more fuel the message is proxied to the through the piggyback ECU on it's way to the injector and modified due to the mapping.  If the piggyback gives more fuel than the standard ECU ordered it will reflect in the 02 sensors and then the standard ECU will lean it out as a result and the piggyback will increase and you receive very choppy throttle response.  An example would be driving down the freeway at constant speed and feeling the bike surging quickly over and over.  It's very slight and very annoying and very tiresome on long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;General Information&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aprilia is next level in it's view of performance upgrades.  They offer race wire harnesses, race valves, pistons, bodywork, Ohlins suspension kits and performance slip on and full race exhaust systems.  All covered under warranty and all included in the OEM parts inventory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also make their ECU programmable to match the exhaust systems that are specifically designed for their motorcycles.  Akrapovic is their exhaust partner, so it's great that you have an Akrapovic exhaust on that beast.  It's the right one.  I'm actually surprised you could source one for a 2009.  I imagine you procured it from the UK or western Europe.  They are all either titanium or carbon fiber.  Only the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to say this to you but....take it to the dealer.  There is no other way unless you can somehow get your hands on the special ECU tool that costs upward for $3,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you procured the Akropovic from a dealership AND it's on the OEM race parts list they will usually flash your ECU with the matching map designed by Aprilia and Akropovic for no charge.  Your profile says your in the desert.  If that's Phoenix, look up the Aprilia dealership here, I know they do it for free.  It's super quick.  If they don't, probably 1 hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Warning&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to repeat, your boyfriend is right, it's to lean and needs more fuel.....but DO NOT buy a piggyback.  Search out there on the interwebs and you will see the results of a piggy back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dynojet and Yoshimura claim they have resolved this piggyback issue but I can tell you from experience they have not. Yoshimura only offers for the RSV4, not the RSV so that rules them out anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, it doesn't make sense to do the piggyback when you can just flash yours, aside from all of the potential issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice question.  I'm shocked there was an Aprilia question that even showed up.  It's a rare and beautiful bike.  Once your ECU is flashed go out and rip a few stand up wheelies on it.  The dry sump engine prevents the engine from eating itself up due to oil starvation!   :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers AND..........Go Aprilia!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T22:46:46.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23714" CreationDate="2015-12-23T22:59:39.420" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a four and half year old manual transmission car with start/stop technology. The car has required jump start once after I accidentally left the lights on overnight. I have recently noticed that when I press the cluth after the engine has been stopped automatically, the starting of the engine causes the lights to momentarily dim. I don't recall seeing this phenomenon when the car was new. The engine has never failed to start (apart from the one time when lights were left on overnight). The battery is of the type designed for start/stop cars but it is not AGM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I became interested in the condition of the battery and asked the dealership to do a battery test. Their testing device, which I believe did a cold cranking amp test and open circuit voltage test, showed that the battery is like new but all it needs is a recharge. I'm somewhat sceptical of the results, because of the phenomenon of the lights momentarily dimming when starting the engine at stoplights. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the charging system of the car, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do lead-acid starting batteries last, typically? What is the failure mode? Failure during a trip, or failure to start on a cold morning? Should I replace this battery merely based on its old age, or should I trust the dealership battery test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T03:53:07.660" Title="What is the expected lifetime and failure mode of lead acid battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-12-23T23:07:01.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a battery and it said the expected life of it right on the side of it.  Mine said three years but I bought an expensive one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:07:01.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21346" CreationDate="2015-12-23T23:13:45.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, lead-acid batteries can be replaced and in some cases, have been replaced. Toyota Prius has a high-voltage nickel metal hydride battery to start the engine and to provide additional electric power. The superior fuel economy (and the simplest and most reliable kind of automatic transmission) of Toyota Prius may mean that all gasoline powered cars of the future will have similar hybrid technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Toyota Prius has not eliminated lead-acid batteries entirely. The high-voltage nickel metal hydride battery, if continuously connected, would be a safety hazard. Thus, the systems of the car boot up on a low-voltage battery and the high-voltage battery is connected only after safety checks have been performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low-voltage battery in Toyota Prius is actually a lead-acid battery. However, in this application I believe there is no obstacle to replacing this battery with e.g. a nickel metal hydride or lithium ion battery, as cold cranking amps are no longer a consideration. I suspect the main reason for having a lead-acid battery is its low cost and the fact that regular light bulbs have been designed for the charging voltage of 12V lead acid systems. Even very slight changes in the voltage can mean huge changes in bulb lifetime or brightness. However, LED lights of the future might mean the voltage compatibility is no longer an important thing, meaning that we are one step closer to replacing the lead-acid battery with something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that power tools use special kinds of lithium ion batteries today also shows that alternative battery technologies can provide the required power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:13:45.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23703" CreationDate="2015-12-23T23:33:22.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon the information you've provided I can think of two things that may create the &quot;medium frequency whirring&quot; sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.  Low Power Steering Fluid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your power steering fluid is low the fluid cannot absorb sound and what you hear is the pump possibly going bad as a result.  Sometimes, when the fluid is just low there will be audible component based upon the lack of sound absorption properties that are the fluid's innate properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.  Power Steering Pump Failure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As above, the pump can make the sound you describe when going into a failed state.  I'm unsure of the sound source though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would defer to @handyhowie chiming in based upon the newer information you have provided or another resource on the site that might be more knowledgeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say I am sure that the fluid could be low or the pump could be failing.  Rather vanilla, I know....but I know those are at least two possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:33:22.563" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23667" CreationDate="2015-12-23T23:51:43.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the most important things are to listen to the sound of the engine from the whole duration between cold start and operating temperature, and to check the body for rust very carefully. The body and the engine can cause the most expensive problems. If you have never owned a car before, you probably do not have the ability to detect potential issues from the engine sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, take it to a test drive and test that all gears work well and that there are no problem indicator lights on the dashboard. However, if you have little driving experience, you won't gain much from the test drive. Check also the service history of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be mentioned that expensive problems can be hidden by quick and dirty fixes, so if the seller is trying to screw you, chances are you won't notice it. I once purchased a second hand car where the engine was poorly designed and had noticeable piston slap even when hot only after 80 000 km. The seller had masked the sound by pouring oil from the spark plug holes. Turns out it was a very expensive mistake and I scrapped the car 3000 km after buying it. It could probably have been driven, I just couldn't tolerate the sound. I no longer buy second hand cars for this reason (and I no longer buy Volkswagens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can ask yourself is to assemble a list of common problems of the model of car you're planning to purchase, and then ask how to detect the problems in the list. If you have no idea how to detect those issues, then don't buy a second hand car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb is if it works, don't fix it! Thus, you can expect that most second hand cars have at least some kinds of problems. I would prefer one-owner cars and specifically those where the owner had a clear reason for purchasing a new car, e.g. due to needing a larger car. Thus, a small second hand car can be a good purchase (the owner probably needed a larger car due to e.g. increased family size), but a large second hand car probably is not a good purchase (why would the owner sell it if it works perfectly? Even a divorce isn't good reason for replacing a large car with a small one due to the high transaction costs of trading cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note that because small cars are cheaper than large cars when new, if you have a fixed budget, then purchasing a small car means you have the money for a newer car that probably has less issues. So, to save money, the correct choice is to purchase as small car as possible and drive it until it needs to be scrapped. Note also that car models tend to increase in size every year and increase in fuel efficiency every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T23:51:43.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T00:00:46.127" Score="3" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;My clutch started sticking to the floor and then it went completely I've replaced the slave cylinder and bleed the clutch but it still seems to stick it got a little better after the bleed but after 5-10 mins it's back on the floor again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13826" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T01:04:39.090" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T23:16:47.013" Title="1996 ford courier 2.6 petrol duel cab" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23712" CreationDate="2015-12-24T00:11:35.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frequently with clutches it's very hard to bleed the air out.  You can sit with a partner in the cabin of the vehicle and do this forever and never get all the air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you get a hand vacuum pump to bleed brakes and hydraulic clutches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what they look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HX9ev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HX9ev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You attach a clear tube to the bleed nipple of the clutch master cylinder and put the catch container in line with that and the hand pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a partner to assist when you do this.  As well, you can see air coming out of the clear tubing so you get rewarded as your hand get's tired.  Be sure to keep fluid going into the fill for the clutch, if you go empty, you start to pull air in and your at square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your in the states you can goto Harbor Freight and get these for under $20 US.  They are will worth every penny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you still have an issue after pulling out all of the air at least you know what it isn't and can rule that out before you start procuring more parts.  I see this as essential to success when bleeding brakes and clutches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck, cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T00:11:35.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-12-24T01:27:31.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_age_affects_capacity_and_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battery University&lt;/a&gt; a battery will continue to have the same amount of CCA throughout most of its life (up until the end), but will lose capacity over time. What that means is, it should be able to crank the engine over at the same speed, but won't be able to do it for as long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; measure of how long a battery will last. Obviously, you can use the warranty which is provided by the battery as a litmus. If the total warranty is five years (even if part of it is prorated), that is probably the max you can expect it to perform at a reasonable level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, most batteries will last about five years ... At least the regular ones and not the elcheapo batteries. If you are anywhere close to that time frame and you are starting to see little issues, I'd plan on replacing the battery. There is nothing worse than a battery which fails to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T01:27:31.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T02:40:14.003" Score="10" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sump cover has a huge hole and I'm going to replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I take the cover off from underneath the car or does the motor have to be lifted to recover the sump cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13826" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T01:13:05.673" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:33:28.630" Title="VW Bora V6 2005 - Sump Replacement Question" Tags="|engine|vw|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23699" CreationDate="2015-12-24T03:42:47.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, I lived further away from the workplace and had a longer commute with lower speed limits when the car was new. So, my question is whether an old engine has worse fuel efficiency than a new one, or whether the the change in my fuel efficiency is due to a shorter commute with higher speed limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A four and half year old car is not outdated in terms of efficiency. The difference is in the distance covered, route,  and driving style. A long commute on a highway (no traffic lights) is much more efficient than a short commute on a route with traffic lights. You will also tend to accelerate harder on shorter commutes with traffic lights in order to keep up with traffic, change lanes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go back to the factory recommended oil weight. That can impact your fuel economy (a little bit) but most importantly, it will impact lubrication at low temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T03:42:47.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23699" CreationDate="2015-12-24T03:44:43.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of difference are your noticing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are thousands of factors that affect fuel consumption. 60k is not high milage and there is little chance the engine is preforming noticeably poorer than new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-30 oil is significantly heavier then 0-20. If your in cold climate this could have a minor effect. at 60k I assume you have likely gotten new tires. Tires play a huge role in fuel economy. Make sure you have sufficient pressure. If your not using the same tires as the OEM then fill the tires to the pressure listed on the side of the tire, not the door jamb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad alignment can increase fuel consumption. Getting a full alignment might help. Global warming might have you running your A/C more. As can driving at different times of the day. Idling obviously increases your average consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise when cold is likely lifters or rockers due to the heavy oil. They are dry for the first few minuets until oil starts flowing freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your only seeing 1-2 MPG difference its likely normal enviromental issues. If you feel a noticable lack of power then have your engine looked at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T03:44:43.673" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21502" CreationDate="2015-12-24T03:51:42.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be the key cylinder switch or the harness connector at the other end. These are known to come loose. Find the large harness coming off the key cylinder and follow it all the way to the firewall. Check any connector you come to by opening it, checking for moisture and corrosion, and reassembling it. Check the large firewall connectors as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your in the US check your local laws for implied warranty of merchant-ability. AKA lemon law or implied warranty. Most states have 3 years but some have limits on used vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T16:53:46.293" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T16:53:46.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19399" CreationDate="2015-12-24T04:03:05.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. I have been idling my car a lot and sometimes used the cheapest gas from some no-name gas stations.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust parts can heat and cool dramatically from working to idling causing the cool-down &quot;tick&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;2. When my 5w20 Motocraft oil gets warm it gets thick and then it is somehow causing this sound.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil becomes &quot;thinner&quot; with heat. Lifter noise can happen because of this but that's typically very regular and the speed of the tick the directly related to the engine speed. Although volume is usually steady or lowers with higher engine speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;3. There is just something wrong with the engine.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines make noise. It may also be normal. If you can narrow down a location I may have more suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T05:36:27.370" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T05:36:27.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T04:55:29.447" Score="3" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to flash the BCM if I replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Mazda 6i and the horn, brake lights and cruise control do not work. The repair shop says the BCM shows signs of water damage and needs to be replaced. Pulling the old one is easy enough and I even found  a replacement on Ebay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to take it to a dealer and get it flashed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13830" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T05:33:29.937" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T07:18:36.000" Title="2008 Mazda 6i - Do I Need to Flash the BCM?" Tags="|electrical|mazda-6|bcm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5574" CreationDate="2015-12-24T05:50:43.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excuse me for answering my own question, but the answer is so clear to me now at least for non-electric motors. They have so much unused power because at idle speeds, you get only a fraction of the advertised power. For the 2.4L Camry engine at idle (1000 RPM), it only puts out 30 HP, and only gets to 140 HP at 5000 RPM (about 30 MPH based on acceleration test dashboard videos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The V8 diesel reaches its full 200 HP at only 2500 RPM, so that explains why it doesn't use an over sized engine like on gasoline vehicles to compensate for the low HP at low RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see how much HP you need if your engine had a perfectly flat power curve, I looked at an acceleration test for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motortrend.com/news/by-the-numbers-1997-2010-toyota-camry-i-4-and-v-6-109787/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008 Toyota Camry LE &#xA;2.4L, 158 hp&lt;/a&gt;, which gets goes from 0 to 60 mph in 8.5s. For a perfect constant power engine, velocity = sqrt(2* power * time / mass), so you would only need an 86 HP engine to achieve the same acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now that raises a new question. If electric motors have such a good power band, then again, why so much HP? Also, why is the torque flat around 0 RPM instead of going to infinity like on a perfect engine. Is it something to do with the magnets being saturated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the torque vs RPM graphs for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/158818-difference-between-2-2l-2-4l.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.4L Camry 2009&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WfrL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WfrL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2.4L Camry 2009&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automobile-catalog.com/car/2002/1430405/hummer_h1_4-door_wagon_6_5l_v8_turbo_diesel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;V8 6.5L diesel (Hummer H1)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPfFD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SPfFD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tesla Model S traction motor (found somewhere on cleantechnica.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg470.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg470.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;As DucatiKiller pointed out, I didn't consider engine weight or size, which might explain why some types of engines have such a high horse power since if the fixed weight/size cost of an engine (e.g. a 1/2 HP gasoline model airplane engine) is small or the marginal cost to increase the HP is small, then it doesn't cost much extra to make an overpowered engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are estimates of the power to weight ratios of the various engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2.4L Camry 2009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;158 HP / &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinfo/Random%20FSM%20Data/2azfe-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;121kg&lt;/a&gt; = 1.3 HP/kg&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Detroit Diesel 6.5L diesel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200 HP / &lt;a href=&quot;http://duramaxhub.com/65-diesel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;750 lbs&lt;/a&gt; = 0.59 HP/kg&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tesla Model S traction motor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 HP / 70 lbs = 12 HP/kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with batteries or else wouldn't be fair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 HP / (70 lbs + 540 kg) = 0.70 HP/kg&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2872" LastEditorUserId="2872" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T10:06:01.887" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:06:01.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23722" CreationDate="2015-12-24T07:18:36.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BCM should not need to be reprogrammed after installation. If it does not work on power up then have it checked. It is connected to and operates many features of the car including the CAN network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the old one for water damage. If it has been damaged; look at the hood release cable, these have known to bring water in to the area above the BCM and then drip water into it. A new cable is needed to repair this leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T07:18:36.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:11:56.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the other answer as I ran into this same issue, what kind of emissions do I have on my mitsubishi galant?  I had this code: P0421 and I had to replace my O2 Sensor &amp;amp; the catalytic converter but I wasn't sure if I needed the CARB (California Air Resource Board) compliant ones or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a label that identifies what type you have.  I don't have the CA emissions car and here is the link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/info/DetCat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RockAuto Parts page that showed it&lt;/a&gt;.  It also showed where the label was located on the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oy5Jn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oy5Jn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Non-California label:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHJsa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHJsa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the California label:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPc2H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPc2H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T05:42:46.187" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T05:42:46.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2015-12-24T11:31:22.733" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers failed to emphasize an important point: the 12V battery on hybrid cars is not designed to start an engine, being much smaller than typical automotive starter batteries. Thus, it may not have the cranking amps capacity to successfully start the other car. The 12V battery is merely there to provide power for lights and to boot up the computer that after booting up connects the high voltage battery. The electrical system of hybrid cars may also not be designed for use cases where there is a large current on the 12V system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota recommends that Prius should not be used to jump start other cars although other cars can provide jump start (or more accurately, boot-up) current to Prius. Probably the reason for this is that the 12V battery is not a starter battery. Another reason might be that the damage when incorrectly connecting jumper cables is probably more expensive on hybrid cars than non-hybrid cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had a hybrid car and somebody asked me to provide jump start power, I would do it by charging the recipient battery for several minutes without cranking the engine on the recipient car. During this, the hybrid system power needs to be on so that the 12V battery is recharged from the HV battery through a DC-DC converter or else the small 12V battery might be exhausted. I would also connect the jump start cables myself and not allow anyone else to connect them to ensure that expensive damage doesn't happen due to e.g. connecting accidentally negative to positive or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember also the connection order for the jump start cables. The positive is connected first, and then the negative. The last connection may produce a spark, so it is made to a grounded part of the car away from the battery to prevent a theoretical hydrogen explosion hazard (although I don't really believe that this hazard would occur easily). The cables are removed in the opposite order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the recipient battery has been charged for several minutes, only then would I try to crank the recipient car. Probably the safest thing to do would be to disconnect the jumper cables before cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't really have a hybrid. Thus, if somebody asks me to provide jump start power, I'm lazy and save my time by cranking the recipient car immediately. The heavy-duty 50mm2 cables that I have should be large enough to crank the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T11:31:22.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2883" CreationDate="2015-12-24T11:58:26.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answer failed to mention how long the battery typically lasts, mentioning only the warranty of the battery. Furthermore, the other answer failed to mention that there are actually two batteries in Prius, the LV battery and the HV battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12V LV battery is a lead-acid battery and has the same replacement interval than conventional car batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The HV battery will last the lifetime of the car. The reason this works is that the electrical system keeps the battery in the middle of its state of charge. Most wear on batteries occur when they are nearly empty or nearly full. Another reason this works is that the HV battery is oversized for its job and will work very well even with capacity degradation. Some new Priuses will have a lithium ion battery, and the lifetime of this is unknown but probably Toyota would not choose technology with lower lifetime than existing technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't just to take my word for the battery lifetime. Consumer Reports have compared an approximately 10 year old 200 000 mile Prius with a low mileage Prius being approximately as old as the other car. The conclusion was that fuel efficiency was similar on both cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, Prius is probably the car with the least worries during its ownership. Many recent automatic transmissions fail easily such as the DSG transmissions that Volkswagen uses. Parts in manual transmissions (e.g. synchros) and clutches can wear due to user error or even due to normal use. The Prius transmission has only one speed (but three axles so it works effectively like a CVT when used with electric motors). This is the simplest and most reliable kind of transmission you can find! The engine is oversized for the power it produces, meaning it is probably very reliable. No failing turbochargers like on many new cars. Indirect injection means that injectors are cheap to replace if they fail and also that there should be no carbon deposits on the intake valves. The regenerative braking should mean that brake pad replacement interval is longer than on conventional cars. No accessory belts on the Prius to fail or to require replacement. The water pump and air conditioning compressor are electric, meaning they don't rev at high speeds when you're revving the engine, making quick wear less likely. The motor-generators will last longer than conventional alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T11:58:26.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:11:21.920" Score="7" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a Hero Honda Passion 2002 model bike. The head light is very low and it works on engine power not on the battery, due to this riding bike in no light area with lots of ups and downs are trouble some because until vehicle is not in good speed head lights are not luminous enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would be the best solution for this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would mounting an auxiliary lights solve my problem and is it possible to mount auxiliary lights for Hero Honda Passion 2002 model bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13834" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T17:45:26.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:47:05.487" Title="Can I Mount auxiliary lights for Hero Honda Passion 2002 bike?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|headlight|hero-honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12180" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:47:21.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you don't have an overheating problem, but that you need a new radiator cap. If the current radiator cap doesn't keep the pressure in, it will do as you describe. The pressure will be allowed to escape and you'll see steam and it will appear to be overheating, even though the temperature gauge appears to be normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T12:47:21.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12104" CreationDate="2015-12-24T13:01:25.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that used oil does an excellent job of &quot;dissolving&quot; baked-on oil-based dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No amount of brake cleaner or engine degreaser was effective in cleaning up my valve cover (pictured below). Moistening the dirt with some used oil pulled the grime right off and made it a lot easier for brake cleaner to &quot;wash&quot; it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTdcf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTdcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;valve cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T13:01:25.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-12-24T13:20:17.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think once you put a good, overnight charge on the battery you'll see improvement.  A start/stop car puts a lot more drain on the battery, and gives less charging time.  In a normal car, a very dead battery has lots of uninterrupted time to charge back up.  Your battery has a significant load on it each time you stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That odd charging pattern might not be enough to recharge a battery that is older and not in a good state of charge already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T13:20:17.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21347" CreationDate="2015-12-24T13:57:39.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can trouble codes P2138 &amp;amp; P2279 be related for a 2005 Honda Pilot?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, it would seem so. After replacing the Pedal Position Sensor both codes went away and have not come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up replacing the Pedal Position Sensor a few months back. Since then I noticed the car drives better and I have not seen any of the previous issues since. Replacing the Pedal Position Sensor resolved the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below forum thread describes how to replace the part on a honda accord. It is the same although the part number is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/35469-p2138-code-accelerator-position-sensor-control-arm-unrelated.html#post544361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/35469-p2138-code-accelerator-position-sensor-control-arm-unrelated.html#post544361&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12354" LastEditorUserId="12354" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T14:02:56.247" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:02:56.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17801" CreationDate="2015-12-24T14:02:08.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Testing Coolant is pretty easy using specific gravity. A tester has several balls that have slightly different densities. Different balls will float depending on the concentration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to test your concentration to be sure it wont freeze or over heat. The Antifreeze does not transfer heat very well. That is why we mix. The water does most of the cooling while the antifreeze prevents freezing. Some southern states (warmer climates) will use lighter consentrations of antifreeze. This will allow the coolant to freeze at higher temps but also cools the engine better at very high temps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, Flush the coolant if your unsure. Testing only tests the reservoir. If your coolant is clean and bright green its likely fine. If your unsure testers are available at any auto parts store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are Red, Yellow, and Orange antifreeze's used on some vehicles. There is usually a note on the fill cover if they use these coolants only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastEditorUserId="13315" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T02:23:53.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T02:23:53.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2015-12-24T14:15:20.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses. There is a power-train control module that may not be getting power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not check the wiring harness' from the transmission. There are several. Check for chaffing anywhere along the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:15:20.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8825" CreationDate="2015-12-24T14:31:26.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your coolant is not flowing. A stuck thermostat is likely. Bad water pump is also possible. Make sure your serpentine belt is installed properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:31:26.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-12-24T14:40:53.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The test is pretty sound. As batteries age they discharge faster but provide the same output current. They also charge slower. In a stop/start this will cause issues especially if its used frequently, like city driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to have the alternator and regulator checked, but its probably time to replace the battery. 5 years in your application is pretty great. You can keep going with it, but it will become less reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T03:53:07.660" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T03:53:07.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2015-12-24T16:44:36.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some answers correctly identified wear of synchronizers as a possible concern on manual transmission cars, but then they offered double-declutching as a solution. However, it is very hard to correctly judge the amount to press the gas pedal, making it very likely that you're either over-revving or under-revving the engine. Thus, there is some wear on the synchronizers unless the driver has magical ability to estimate how much to press the gas pedal. Yes, double-decluthing does save some synchronizer wear but not all synchronizer wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't shift down during engine braking to avoid unnecessary transmission wear. After all, transmissions are more expensive than brake pads, discs or drums. If you need to accelerate after you have engine-braked, then do the double-declutching procedure and shift directly to the gear you want to use during acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When shifting down due to other reasons such as needing acceleration when you have low RPMs, execute the double-declutching procedure to save the synchronizers from extra wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When skip-shifting up, execute the double-declutching procedure without pressing the gas pedal to save the synchronizers from extra wear. I used to have a 1989 Opel Vectra where I skip-shifted from second to fourth without double-declutching, and I quickly learned that skip-shifting can cause noticeable synchronizer wear in less than 10 000 km. 20 year old transmission oil might have been a factor in this quick wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only when shifting one gear up you don't need to double-declutch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do use engine braking as much as possible without downshifting and press the clutch only when the RPMs are slightly above the fuel injection point. The benefit is that you save some fuel and some brake wear with no extra cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars have the ability to do engine braking down to very low RPMs and even then you don't hear strange sounds from the engine when the RPM falls down like you used to hear on old cars. My 2011 Toyota Yaris starts fuel injection a bit above 500 RPM, and if you accidentally let the engine speed fall to the injection point, the injection at these low RPMs is smooth with no strange sounds from the engine that you could hear on older cars. So, the only effect you see is that the engine braking stops and the car continues to go forward at a constant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some answers theorized that the additional revs cause additional engine wear. Yes, they do, but only marginal additional engine wear. Maybe the engine has had 1% more revolutions if you engine brake often, but then again does that matter? It's only 1%. Besides, on a modern car, the engine is one of the last components to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One answer said to keep engine revs above 1200RPM. That might be good advice for old cars, but my 2011 Toyota Yaris engine brakes smoothly down to 500 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T16:44:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2015-12-24T16:47:28.043" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a blown head gasket. Get a combustion tester. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had same problem, it was a leaking head gasket and I had no oil mixing with coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13838" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T17:17:59.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T17:17:59.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T16:56:24.333" Score="5" ViewCount="8929" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the symptoms of a failing clutch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have owned several cars with manual transmissions, but have never actually experienced a clutch failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me to use a low gear and press heavily on the accelerator to see if the revs increase suddenly. If they do increase suddenly, the clutch is probably failing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this intuition correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would it be better to do the test using a high gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How sudden is the clutch failure? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I safely drive back home and to the garage after I have observed the clutch is failing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to drive the car normally while waiting for the reserved clutch job time in the garage for, say, 500km?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a car with failing clutch is driven, is there a risk that something very expensive breaks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the remaining life of a clutch cannot be observed without taking everything apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cars with a clutch wear indicator that would allow easily seeing the remaining lifetime of a clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T17:49:23.130" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T18:20:29.933" Title="Clutch failure symptoms" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T17:07:51.957" Score="4" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an early failure of one of the two lambda sensors in my 2011 Toyota Yaris that was driven for approximately 40 000 - 50 000 km at the time of failure. Fortunately, this was replaced for warranty. I became naturally curious why the lambda sensor failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership offered no explanation for the failure, and I do not have the failed component so I cannot take a look at the old lambda sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why would a lambda sensor fail? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might it be a sign that there is something else defective in the car, or is the likely cause a manufacturing defect in the lambda sensor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it just normal wear and tear that a lambda sensor fails so early?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the car has a heated lambda sensor as it's a quite recent car. According to Wikipedia, a heated lambda sensor fails due to catalyst depletion, but if this was really the failure mode then why would the catalyst deplete faster than usually? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, heated sensor lifetime is typically 160 000 km, from three to four times as much as my sensor lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T22:01:53.320" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:01:53.320" Title="Why would a lambda sensor fail?" Tags="|toyota|o2-sensor|diagnostics|yaris|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23741" CreationDate="2015-12-24T18:20:55.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lambda sensors have several different failure modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heater element. The heater element is a resistive material that resists electron flow thus producing heat. This is the most common cause of early failure. The resistor burns through opening the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Failure of the catalyst material.  Usually caused by contaminates coming from the engine. Very uncommon early failure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Failure of the circuits connecting the electrical circuits connecting the sensing electrodes to the PCM. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Contaminates on the outside of the sensor, plugging the air inlet vents. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The onboard testing done by the PCM is quite thorough on these sensors. It has many trouble codes that are used to describe the various failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This vehicle has two lambda (fuel mixture) sensors. They are very different, the one ahead of the catalyst is wide band type capable of reporting a fairly wide range of fuel mixtures. The one after the catalyst is a narrow band type capable of reporting mixture at stoichiometric. However, failure modes are similar, with some added circuit tests for the much more complicated wide band type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Some technicians poorly understand how these sensors work and how to test them. Inaccurate training over the years has caused confusion about how this sensor works. Most technicians are doing little testing; they are relying on the trouble code which works most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can provide the failure code the cause can be narrowed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T18:24:16.913" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:24:16.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23745" CreationDate="2015-12-24T18:34:05.097" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a climate that necessitates changing the wheels to ones with studded winter tires and back again to ones with summer times twice a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several years of owning the car, I noticed that the aluminium wheels got stuck to the wheel hubs, necessitating the use of a rubber mallet to cause the wheels to move allowing removal. Fortunately, after hammering with the rubber mallet for a while I managed to remove the wheels. I assume the cause is road salt causing corrosion to the wheel hub that is made from steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better solution to remove a stuck wheel, such as a special purpose tool to remove a stuck wheel? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do garages remove stuck wheels? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can the use of a rubber mallet to remove a stuck wheel cause damage to car components?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured out that it is probably better to prevent the problem rather than trying to fix it afterwards, so after I first noticed the stuck wheel problem, I have put a very minor amount of grease to the wheel hubs where the wheel makes contact with the wheel hub. This has allowed me to remove the wheels with no stuck wheel problems. I am, however, concerned that water might move the grease from the wheel hub to the brake disks. The risk is probably greater in the front where there are brake disks than in the rear where there are brake drums. Is this a good solution, or is the risk of grease getting to brake components too great? The car has a spare wheel, and I would like to have the ability to change the spare wheel in case of tire failure without having to carry a rubber mallet everywhere I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has not had a mandatory inspection after I first used grease on the wheel hubs, so I have no idea whether the brakes are unbalanced due to grease getting on the brake disks. I have, however, observed no anomalies with braking on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T18:37:05.507" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T01:28:35.767" Title="Wheel removal solutions" Tags="|brakes|maintenance|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23744" CreationDate="2015-12-24T18:59:56.923" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked at a garage.  We use a rubber mallet.  Hit it like your doing lug nuts.  Hit it, rotate 90*, hit it, rotate 45*, and so on so you are not always hitting on the same spot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would normally put some grease on the hubs.  You can use anti-seize also.  I wouldn't worry about water moving it around.  It is squished flat in there, and water and grease don't mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:59:56.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4083" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:32:22.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have had the problem twice, I assume you have a real genuine problem with the car. However, let me share my experience with a 2011 Toyota Yaris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2011 Toyota Yaris has a start/stop system, and you don't need to turn the key for as long as the engine has started. Momentarily turning the key is enough, and the car computer takes care of supplying the starter motor current until the engine has actually started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that's only the theory. Once when starting my car on the morning, I actually found that the engine cranked for a very brief period of time but did not start properly. Turning the key (momentarily) again fortunately started the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this was a random hiccup in the electrical systems. Because it has occurred only once and never repeated, I assume it was just a random fault and not a real problem. This may not be the same problem that you're having, but I would wait until the problem occurs for a few more times until taking the car to the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention how old (miles? years?) your car is. This could perhaps help in diagnosing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T19:32:22.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:37:48.240" Score="9" ViewCount="53248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a four and half year old car. I have recently noticed that there is white powder forming to the battery terminals. The car still has the original battery and probably should be replaced sometime in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this substance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it harmful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I attempt to remove it or should I just leave it be there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T20:15:45.797" Title="Is white powder on the battery terminals harmful?" Tags="|battery|corrosion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:51:59.350" Score="6" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Toyota Yaris and live in climate where -5C temperatures are common and -20C are not unheard of. The car has an electric engine pre-heater installed. I don't know exactly what is the type of the electric pre-heater but I don't believe it's of the old type that is installed to the engine core plugs. I have noticed that the pre-heater makes cranking the engine easier when it's very cold. However, I have also noticed that the engine has never failed to start due to cold temperature. So, even though it may take an extra second to start the engine when very cold and the pre-heater has not been used, it does eventually start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen statements that modern engine pre-heaters are worse than the old core plug block heaters, and thus it's not worth it to use these modern pre-heaters. Is this correct? Does it make sense to use the modern types of engine pre-heaters? I drive only 5500 km per year, but start the engine at least twice per day and am planning to drive the car for at least 15 more years. Is it possible that cold start wear could cause premature engine failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no electric indoor air heater in the car, so even when pre-heating is used, I have to remove frost manually from the windows. The company I work for has electric outlets in parking spaces but does not allow using indoor air heaters, so if I installed an indoor air heater, I would have to turn it off when parking at the company parking lot and turn it on again when parking in the front of my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T01:24:20.823" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:44:00.060" Title="Is pre-heating a modern engine worth it?" Tags="|engine|toyota|heat|block-heater|yaris|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:00:15.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it's harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is lead sulphate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is toxic to ingest and breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is especially toxic to children, as you would imagine regular lead to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not miscible in water but baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) neutralizes that acidic portion of the compound.  The remnant compound of that reaction would be H2O and some CO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Action&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use gloves.  Lead salts are quite poisonous.  You should also wear an air filtering mask and eye protection when cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put baking soda in some water and mix it.  Pour it on the battery terminal and use a brush to clean it off.  The water and baking soda will prevent you from breathing in any of the lead sulfate dust.  You will see a reaction and it will foam, that will be mostly water and CO with ions of a few other chemicals like lead and sulpher, there is a type of salt that breaks off too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see any brown in the foam that is probably iron oxide getting broken down from an older component of the cable connector, if you have an older vehicle.  Modern clamps avoid the use of ferrous metals due to oxidation (rust)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use distilled water to pour on the foamy mess to wash it off.  Ensure you DO NOT get any of the remnants from the reaction on the paint of the vehicle.  It will damage it.  Ensure you wash the remnants completely out of the vehicle, battery tray, devices below the tray like suspension etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T20:07:06.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23757" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:02:36.310" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 car and I have noticed that the windshield has notable scratches. There is no indoor air heater, so I have to manually remove the frost from the windshield when starting on a cold morning. I'm somewhat disappointed by the quickly forming scratches on the windshield, because it may mean I have to replace the windshield before the car gets scrapped. I drive only 5500 km per year, so the risk of having the windshield broken by a stone is minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a theory of how the scratches form. The theory is that when driving, road grit gets to the windshield. Then, after parking, frost has formed to the windshield on a cold morning, and when manually removing the frost, the grit is harder than the windshield and the manual frost removal causes these scratches to the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this theory correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, according to this theory I should operate the windshield washers to remove road grit from the windshield just before parking the car. Then, when removing the frost manually, there is no road grit and thus no way of scratches to form. Is this operating of the windshield washers before parking the car beneficial to have a longer windshield replacement interval?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:36:26.640" Title="Windshield scratch prevention" Tags="|windshield-wipers|windshield|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:15:45.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is anhydrous sulfuric acid that has leaked from around the terminal posts. It will rather quickly corrode the battery terminal connectors. Rinse it off with water first, to get most of it off, flush with lots of water. Then put a mixture of baking soda and water in the areas affected, then rinse that off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep it from returning treat the terminals with an acid neutralizing substance. &#xA;After trying most everything we have used NOCO brand products with outstanding success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say Vaseline grease works is best, we have not found to work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T20:15:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12104" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:26:39.040" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Recycle it.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use it for anything, it's an environmental hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get rid of it in the least impactful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used motor oil has a plethora of bad chemicals and compounds in it that eliminate for another use once it has been inside your engine for an extended period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside from the hydrocarbons there is lead, phosphorous, berium, zinc, bromine,  aluminum, arsenic, calcium, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium, silicon, sodium, tin, toluene, benzene, xylene and ethylbenzene among others.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp102-c3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a link from the CDC.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most auto parts stores in Western Europe and N. America will allow you to pour into their waste containers for free and a service company will pick it up for &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;recycling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and reuse for other purposes like door hinge lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most socially conscious and morally responsible action is to &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;recycle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.  There is also Nietzsche's argument that we all have a moral obligation based upon our innate contract with society when we are born to what is best for our society.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most philosophical disciplines would drive to a moral standard that states you are obligated to &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;recycle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; until there is a better less impactful solution that comes about through the evolution of technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also provides a great example for those that surround you.  Young or old, our behaviors are inherited from others and &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;recycling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is a great behavior to pass on to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T18:20:15.487" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12104" CreationDate="2015-12-24T20:33:13.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this may not answer the exact question, I would not use old motor oil to lubricate bicycle or motorcycle drive chains. It has excellent lubricating properties (and the fact it's used does not matter for this low-tech application), but it doesn't stay on for maximum possible time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black color of motor oil should not be an impediment for using it in drive chains. The drive chain lubricant, even if clear when applied, will anyway shortly turn black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, there are two kinds of bicycle drive chain lubricants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first type is dry lubricants that have teflon flakes along with a thin fluid that probably evaporates very quickly. They need to be constantly re-applied. They may appeal to someone that has an obsession about cleanliness, but for someone that drives regularly in the rain, these are a poor solution, because of the need for constant re-application. These lubricants have quite poor lubrication properties but for the low-tech application that a bicycle chain is, they do stop the annoying noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second type is wet lubricants. The best of these are thixotropic and applied with a foaming spray can. The foaming spray can makes the lubricants very thin when applied. However, shortly after that the lubricant becomes very thick. When you start to ride the bike, the movement of the lubricant causes it to become thin again, and when you park the bike, it becomes thick again. Thus it stays on for a very long amount of time. Essentially, movement causes the lubricant to become thin and staying still causes it to become thick. So, you have the best properties of the both worlds: the lubricant is both thin (for easy movement) and thick (for long re-application interval)!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen that most kinds of the thixotropic lubricants are marketed as motorcycle chain lubricants. I use them for bicycles, too. Most of the bicycle chain lubricants marketed are pure crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an emergency, e.g. when riding a bicycle or a motorcycle on a road trip in the rain, motor oil can be used as an emergency lubricant. The best way is to try to find a discarded motor oil bottle from a gas station that invariably has very little motor oil left, or to find a garage that has used motor oil. However, when lubricating a bicycle or a motorcycle at home, I would not use motor oil because the thixotropic lubricants are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would simply take the motor oil to a place that accepts used motor oil. They probably have a far better use for it than you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T20:33:13.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="825" CreationDate="2015-12-24T21:00:54.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't entirely agree with the accepted answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read somewhere that the extra energy required to start the engine is about a second or so of the amount of fuel it would consume when continuously running. So, it is definitely clear that the start/stop system saves energy. If starting an engine required a lot of energy, where would the extra energy go, then? It wouldn't make sense knowing the laws of physics. The rotational kinetic energy of the engine is anyway so low that it stops in less than a second if fuel supply is cut. The efficiency of starter motor (and the alternator) might not be 100%, but even a 10% efficiency should mean that starting takes about the same energy than turning the engine for 1 second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, does it save enough energy for it to pay back? Probably not. I have 60 000 km on my 2011 Toyota Yaris, and it has a functionality in the car computer for telling how long the engine has been off. If I recall the figure correctly, it has been off for about 13 hours. If the car lifetime is 300 000 km, it will be off for about 65 hours during the lifetime of the car. How much fuel does it save, then? Assuming that 0.7 liters per hour are consumed by an idling engine, it is 45.5 liters of fuel saved. In Finland, this costs a bit more than 60 EUR (in the United States, it would be much, much cheaper due to the lower taxation level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what does the start/stop system require, then? Firstly, it requires a heavierweight battery. The start/stop system battery in my car is not an AGM battery but it is a flooded battery where the plates are thicker. Probably a bit more expensive than a regular flooded battery. Secondly, it requires a more expensive starter motor that can withstand more start cycles. They at Toyota have indeed taken this into account, and the starter motor has a certain amount of start/stop cycles it can withstand, and it requires replacing if the amount of cycles it can withstand is exceeded (which probably will never happen for most users). Thirdly, it requires the computer program to control the starter motor, but this is merely constant R&amp;amp;D cost without variable per-car cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the disadvantages, then? I assume that premature battery wear might be a problem. I have noticed on my car that the lights have recently started to momentarily dim when the start/stop system is doing its job and re-starting the engine. But my battery has been in use for 4.5 years, and it might in fact be a good lifetime for a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently started holding down the clutch when on a stoplight, because I don't believe the savings are that great, and because I'm concerned about premature battery failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do car manufacturers install start/stop technology then if it doesn't pay itself back? I assume the reason is that taxation (annual tax and vehicle purchasing tax) in most countries is heavily based on fuel consumption, and because the fuel consumption driving cycles have an excessive amount of time when the car is stopped. Most drivers never stand at stoplight for as long as in the driving cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:00:54.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22225" CreationDate="2015-12-24T21:22:15.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody has mentioned the load of a charging laptop. My laptop has a 19V 2.1A power supply meaning the maximum power in the worst case is approximately 40 watts. At 12 volts, this means about 3.3 amperes of current draw. However, your inverter might not be 100% efficient, so this amperage draw might be somewhat larger but probably not above 4 amperes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, a cigarette lighter draws around 10 amperes of current. Thus, you probably have no problem operating an inverter in the cigarette lighter receptable in your car. Just make sure not to use it when the engine is off or else you may have a flat battery and may require a jump start. At max 4 amperes of current, you should have the ability to charge the laptop battery for more than 10 hours, because conventional car starter batteries are above 40 ampere hours. However, an old battery might have a much lower capacity, so I would not take risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make it sure, you can take a look at the fuse box in your car. See what the fuse rating is for the cigarette ligher fuse. I believe the fuse is either 10A or 15A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:22:15.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22878" CreationDate="2015-12-24T21:31:09.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody has mentioned advice specific to this car. Certain Toyotas manufactured in the early 2000s had a problem with piston rings, which caused excessive oil consumption. Chances are your problem is the same. So, the engine probably needs to be taken apart to remedy this issue. Whether it makes sense for such an old car is a good question. For such an old car, there is little chance of getting it paid by the warranty. I would just continue pouring oil to the engine while at the same time making a decision which car to purchase next. Newer Toyotas do not have this oil burning issue, so I wouldn't use this as a reason to choose another brand of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:31:09.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23750" CreationDate="2015-12-24T21:36:26.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your theory sounds good to me. Do run the windshield washers before parking the car. Now, about fixing the current scratches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are products that allow you to polish the windshield to remove scratches. In the same way that you would polish the paint. I do it to my car every month, except that I use the regular paint polish rather than the more expensive glass polish. I ran some tests and the results were equal for me. I'm particular of the Meguiar's brand. Polish the windshield once a month to avoid things to stick to it and remove scratches. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:36:26.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23740" CreationDate="2015-12-24T22:08:38.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me to use a low gear and press heavily on the accelerator to see if the revs increase suddenly. If they do increase suddenly, the clutch is probably failing. Is this intuition correct? Or would it be better to do the test using a high gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically correct, but you'll see/hear the slippage much better in a higher gear than a lower gear. Roll your car at about 20mph (25kph), put it in a higher gear than you normally would (something like 4th gear), release the clutch and punch the gas. If the engine spins up faster than you'd think (the engine/vehicle do not speed up as one, but rather the engine speeds up without seeing much of speed improvement in the car), your clutch is slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How sudden is the clutch failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just talking about it wearing out, it will usually take some time for it to occur. This could be a couple of weeks to a couple of months, depending on how the car is driven. If there is a mechanical issue with the clutch, then obviously it's going to happen fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, can I safely drive back home and to the garage after I have observed the clutch is failing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think you &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; could do this, but it really depends on the shape of the clutch. If it's been slipping for some time and you haven't noticed it, it could already be in bad shape. Just remember that a slipping clutch will self destruct sooner or later. Also, the greatest thing which destroys a clutch (to include the flywheel) is heat. The slippage will cause greater heat, so as it slips more, it will destroy itself faster and faster. IOW, it's not linear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to drive the car normally while waiting for the reserved clutch job time in the garage for, say, 500km?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what &quot;normal&quot; means to you. If you are in a hilly/mountainous region, you'll experience a lot more wear than if everything's flat. If you hotrod you vehicle, you're going to see faster wear. If you really baby your clutch, yes I'd think it could be possible. Just remember, if the flywheel is in good shape now and you continue to drive it, you'll most likely either need to have it resurfaced or replaced. (NOTE: You'll at least want it burnished when you get it changed ... make sure they do at least that during the replacement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a car with failing clutch is driven, is there a risk that something very expensive breaks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing beyond the clutch assembly and flywheel. The clutch is fairly much self contained in that it is only a coupling device which connects the engine to the transmission. When it goes out, it just quits coupling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the remaining life of a clutch cannot be observed without taking everything apart. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That has been my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any cars with a clutch wear indicator that would allow easily seeing the remaining lifetime of a clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None that I'm aware of ... you used to be able to adjust your clutch cable and that would be one indication your clutch was going south. With hydraulic clutch release mechanisms, they self adjust so you really don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:08:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2015-12-24T22:27:13.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern engine preheaters are usually made of flexible heater mats, similar to those used in seat heaters. These are glued to the bottom of the oil pan. This heats the engine oil. This thins the oil allowing it to pump much more quickly which has two effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The crankshaft spins faster allowing faster start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The oil reaches the bearings much faster. This is the one that is going to improve engine life since the moving engine parts spend less time with metal to metal contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older style heaters heated the engine coolant. It was much less effective at heating the oil which is the true benefit of preheating an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that it is important to run the engine without load for at least 30 seconds after a cold start. The ensures full lubrication. And it is best to drive very gently for the first few minutes to lessen the possibility of piston ring sticking. A rather unknown cause of engine oil burn, which can happen when the engine is loaded heavily when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:44:00.060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:44:00.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22440" CreationDate="2015-12-24T23:23:00.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are the car manufacturer has taken into account the fact that cold engine cannot have as high load as a warm engine. I have a 2011 Toyota Yaris that has a momentary fuel consumption display. I have noticed that when I floor the accelerator pedal, the fuel consumption display shows a smaller value when cold than when warm when using the same gear. I assume the engine control unit is protecting the engine from too much load when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your car is so old that it may not have a drive by wire system. If this is the case, there is nothing that could protect the engine from too much load, because the accelerator pedal controls the throttle valve directly. I would avoid fully depressing the accelerator pedal when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that it's the oil temperature that matters, not the coolant temperature. Oil heats up slower than coolant, and therefore, if your temperature gauge shows the coolant is warm the oil may not be warm. Typically cars do not have an oil temperature sensor, but the engine control unit software can approximate by using the coolant temperature data and the fact that oil heats up slower than coolant. So, in a drive by wire system, even without an oil temperature sensor the engine control unit probably has an approximate idea how hot the oil is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have driven my 1.33-litre engined car up a steep hill by flooring the accelerator pedal practically immediately after cold start every day during the last 3.5 years. I have to do either that or alternatively using a very small gear (and therefore high RPMs), or both using a very small gear and travelling the hill very slowly. No problems observed yet apart from very slight engine sound when cold that might be starting piston slap. However, as I said, the ECU is probably protecting the engine from excessive load when cold in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T23:23:00.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13022" CreationDate="2015-12-25T00:15:25.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headlight control unit is in the sealed portion of the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a CAN network controller and not just a relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has failed the whole box is to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T07:52:56.420" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T07:52:56.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17550" CreationDate="2015-12-25T00:42:52.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like air in the system. It is the most common cause of this symptom. Leaks in the pump to reservoir hose or pump inlet o-ring fitting are common. Even if you do not see bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T00:42:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23766" CreationDate="2015-12-25T04:09:37.483" Score="8" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seriously considering learning some auto repair knowledge. I don't want to use my good car as my experimental starter kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can I buy a used car somewhere and have it towed home just for the purpose of self-study? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am from Asia and am not familiar with the law here in the US. Can I purchase a car without buying any insurance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the good place to start looking (Craiglist, Local auto store)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13842" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T04:42:13.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T09:07:12.237" Title="Can I buy a used car to learn auto repair &amp; DIY?" Tags="|car|repair|diy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23763" CreationDate="2015-12-25T05:10:27.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craiglist is good.  You can find things on there for cheap.  You can find away around the California insurance problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should get fuel injected car that's enough to hook a scanner to so you can learn all about the error codes and troubleshooting the modern way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T05:10:27.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T06:54:19.230" Score="1" ViewCount="6236" Body="&lt;p&gt;99 corolla seca.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK so first time it happened i was driving and i suddenly lost power (electrics / everything else) it just kind of putters a little and then that's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called roadside assist and we jumped her and tested everything. and the numbers looked good. figured it was a buildup under the battery terminal possibly causing the problem, we gave that a good clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a couple of days later i was paranoid so i got the multimeter out just to check again while it was in the driveway, 12.8v without the engine turning over and 14.1V with the engine on. seemed nominal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;well today it just happened again, roadside assist looked at it and everything seemed fine again. perhaps it's something to do with the heat? (summer here atm) both times i had the AC running with the fans on. I'm a little stumped, perhaps the alternator is failing but only after warming up... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so i thought it was probably the battery so i replaced the battery, and with a new battery in the car while i was driving initially i read 13.9 volts at the lighter with a multimeter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but shortly after for a while it droped to 12.3 which prompted me to go home, in the driveway though it went back to 13.9 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does anyone know if perhaps the charging system is realising the battery is full and just disengaging the alternator for that time? or does this indicate i have a definite issue with the alternator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13843" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T19:19:53.140" Title="Suddenly losing electrical power, but after jump start, test the battery and alternator, they seem fine" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23763" CreationDate="2015-12-25T08:54:11.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are better ways to learn, rather than going into the expense of a used car, unless you get it for free.  If you get a lemon you will end up getting even more frustrated because repairs open up more repairs.  If you are really inexperienced, you might waste a lot of time getting into things that are over your head, like exhaust work without a blow torch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would encourage you to get with people who have more experience to start you in your learning, maybe helping other people work on their cars as an alternative.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a good basic set of tools (talk to experienced people on what you need), get a manual specific for your car, like a Haynes or Chilton, and start out doing the more simple tasks, like oil, filter changes, and tune ups.  Don't start with an engine rebuild or trouble shoot electrical issues, unless you have a background with the latter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use forums, like this one to ask questions, watch you tube videos specific to the task you are wanting to accomplish, like Eric the Car Guy (read a manual first though on the task).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get with an auto club if they have one for your car.  I met a man who was a beginner with auto repairs and joined a club for Mazda Miata's.  He was able to change a timing belt early on because he had over a dozen experienced people helping him at their monthly meetup and repair meeting.  They would get together and just work on cars all day on a Saturday.  Personally I really like this idea of getting together with others for help, if possible.  My neighbor and I do this regularly, even if it's just to talk about how to fix something or borrow tools.  I have another neighbor that likes Ford Mustangs and he and his racing friends regularly get together and work on cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, there is a lot to know and learn so you will have to invest time and money into it, but it will be a lot less than paying to have the work done.  I just spent hundreds of dollars on emissions work for parts, but it would have been a lot more at a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T16:31:54.380" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T16:31:54.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:24:54.907" Score="6" ViewCount="36174" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I tell whether a mechanical thermostat works as it should?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a test that can definitively tell me if a thermostat is good or bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T23:52:57.130" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T02:07:14.977" Title="How can I test my thermostat?" Tags="|cooling-system|thermostat|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23767" CreationDate="2015-12-25T10:24:54.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECgZO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECgZO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Typical Thermostat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Failure Modes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical thermostats fail in one of two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stuck-closed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pintle/spring doesn't retract to permit flow at the set-point temperature that is usually stamped on the thermostat itself. which can lead to the engine running at hotter than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If hot enough, this can lead to serious issues such as a compromised head gasket or warped cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stuck-open&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pintle/spring doesn't actuate to maximize flow restriction at temperatures cooler than the set-point temperature. This usually results in the engine running at cooler than designed-for temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running an engine too cool can result in issues with the emissions and catalytic converter efficiency due to increased hydrocarbons in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Test Procedure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermostat needs to be out of the car and on the bench for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature at which the thermostat opens is usually stamped on the thermostat itself. In the absence of such, a technical manual or parts supplier will require referencing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appropriate PPE is strongly recommended as this test involves boiling hot water.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the thermostat in boiling water¹:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the thermostat opens, this confirms the thermostat is able to open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the thermostat from boiling water²:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the thermostat returns to the closed position, this confirms the thermostat is able to close&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - remember that the temperature of boiling water varies with altitude; it's 100 °C at sea level&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;² - now what did I say about PPE again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why engine coolant temperature won't give the full story&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because your engine temperature gauge isn't where it should be doesn't mean that the thermostat is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of other plausible reasons that could cause the engine temperature gauge to read too cool or too hot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faulty engine coolant temperature sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;environmental conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;radiator fans not turning on (too hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;radiator fans running when they shouldn't be (too cold)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blockage in the coolant piping (too hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compromised water pump (too hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaks (too hot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:49:58.573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:49:58.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23517" CreationDate="2015-12-25T11:06:13.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear solid axles on trucks especially with leaf springs are not adjustable. To cause enough misalignment for one wheel to rub something must be damaged. I would start by looking at the center bolt of the leaf springs. The bolt ties all the leafs together in the center and is used as an alignment pin with the pad on the rear axle. Everything is held together with the U bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a measuring tape measure corner to corner diagonally of the leaf springs to make sure that thy are square and the frame is not warped. Inspect the leaf spring mounts for any damage. Measure from the leading edge of each spring to the axle. If it is not the same, which i suspect, then pull apart the U bolts and inspect the center bolts. Resemble making sure that the axle is now straight and that the spring front to axle distance is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to the front. The three angles are caster, camber and toe. Without a machine, caster is nearly impossible to measure. With the solid front axle the caster is not adjustable. (see camber)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camber is a different story, sort of. While there are not active adjustments in your truck for camber it is easy to measure. There are some special off set lower ball joints available that allow changing camber and caster, they are super expensive and a giant pain to use. To measure camber you need a home built jig. In essence the jig is a big carpenters square, where it will sit flat on the ground and reach all the way to the top of the rim. Making it out of wood is easy, just make sure that it is nice and square, it stands up on its own without falling over and that it's taller than the top the rim. On a nice flat concrete surface using a measuring tape measure from the top the the rim to the jig. Then measure from the bottom of the rim to the jig. Make sure to keep the measuring tape nice a parallel to the ground. Just a bit of trigonometry is needed to figure out the angle. Inverse sine of [(top - bottom)/rim diameter]. In your case the actual angle is not important it just needs to be nearly the same on both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe is the exact opposite, easy to adjust and a pain in the ass to measure. Your truck has two toe adjustments one is on the tie rod that goes to the steering box. This adjust the steering wheel &quot;straightness.&quot; The other tie rod adjust the actual toe. First start by wrapping the center of each wheel with duct tape, several layers may be required. Spin the wheel lightly and use a permanent marker to scribe a line as straight and centered as possible. Using a measuring tape measure the distance line to line in the front and back of the tire. You want to measure exactly the height of the center of the wheel off the ground in front of the tire and in the back. You can use the camber jig you made earlier to help. This is probably a two person job. To adjust loosen the pinch sleeve bolts on the toe sleeve and turn the sleeve. Every time you make an adjustment roll the truck back and for a few times to make sure the tires settled. Adjust it for either zero toe or just the slightest toe in. When that is complete reassemble everything and then loosen the pinch sleeve bolts on the straightness sleeve. Leave the bolts loose and take some tools with you for a drive. Asses how off center the steering wheel is then pull over and tweak the sleeve. Do this util you are happy with how centered the wheel is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the instructions that i have given assume that nothing is loose in the front end and that all the rear end problems have been solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T11:06:13.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23765" CreationDate="2015-12-25T12:19:21.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, open-circuit voltage at full discharge is 11.7V for a six-cell lead-acid battery. Thus, at 12.3V, it should have enough juice to crank the engine. You did not say anything about the alternator charging light, but you should probably have seen it if you are having alternator problems. Have you measured the battery voltage when the problem that you're unable to start the car occurred?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you certain that this is a battery issue? I.e. tried to crank many times without jump start and failed to start, and then tried to crank with jump start and it started successfully? I replaced once a battery on an old car before realizing the problem was the engine control unit relay starting to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you remove the alternator fuse? Does the alternator warning light come on? In theory, there might be an issue with the warning light itself, so this can be used to test whether the warning light is working. Does the warning light come on before you start the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The charging system should never allow the voltage to go as low as 12.3 volts. There is no mechanism to decide if the battery is full other than a sane charging voltage which does not overcharge the battery. So, the symptoms you're seeing indicate alternator problems, but I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't say anything about the alternator warning light. On more modern cars, the charging system might allow the battery to be somewhat discharged normally and then charge it quickly with a high voltage when engine braking. However, even then 12.3V sounds too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T12:19:21.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23765" CreationDate="2015-12-25T12:31:00.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms seem consistent with the alternator belt slipping under medium-high loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this in a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;turn the A/C on (to simulate higher load), pop the hood and see if the belt is slipping&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;measure battery voltage with the A/C on vs off. If the battery voltage drops with the A/C on, this would confirm that the belt is slipping&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/11377/675&quot;&gt;similar issue&lt;/a&gt; a while back. Hopefully your resolution is somewhat straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T12:31:00.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T14:19:46.610" Score="6" ViewCount="1304" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my last roadtrip when I was driving at about 80mph on the highway (75 speed limit) a pressed the brakes abruptly after being cutoff by another vehicle, then my MIL came on. When I checked the fault code with VAGCOM it said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor: B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1114 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2002 VW GTI 1.8T,  67k miles odometer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reset the code and the light stayed off, but ever since that incident, now when I reach about 70mph on the highway (and sustain that speed for about 30 seconds) the MIL comes back on again. After a day or two the MIL turns off automatically and remains off until I exceed 70mph again (same fault code).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reproduced this problem 3 times. As long as I stay below 70mph on the highway, then NO fault code appears. I don't notice any strange behavior or decrease in performance, but I'm now staying below 70mph until I can figure this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this more likely an issue with the wiring/harness or the O2 sensor itself, or possibly something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:23:45.230" Title="2002 VW GTI 1.8T - O2 sensor fault code only when exceeding 70mph" Tags="|vw|o2-sensor|mil|gti|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21728" CreationDate="2015-12-25T16:39:47.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could very well just be a heavier flywheel on the newer car (which leads to more rotational inertia causing the engine to take longer to rev down with no power applied). Sounds normal to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7788" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T16:39:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2015-12-25T17:12:24.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because this issue is speed dependent, I'm almost certain that it is related to exhaust gas temperature. Paulster2 suggested checking whether the issue happens at a lower gear. However, then the load on the engine is lower, so there are less exhaust gases. It may be the case that the issue does not happen at a lower gear, therefore. But a good idea to check whether it occurs at a lower gear, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost certain this is an indication of the oxygen sensor failing due to the heating resistor starting to fail. The exhaust gases should mainly affect the temperature of the heating resistor, not as much the temperature of the wiring. So, I would replace the sensor to see if it remedies the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a tight budget, replacement can be postponed. The sensor failure should not cause catastrophical troubles to the engine, and most cars have two sensors nowadays, so if one sensor fails, the second can provide some information to the engine management system. The main problem of a sensor failing is that in theory it may increase your emissions, but since this is a heating circuit failure and occurs only at high speed, the sensor is then already warm, so I don't believe your problem increases emissions yet. But if the heating circuit fails completely, then I believe emissions will be somewhat increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mandatory inspection can be failed due to the trouble code. So, drive the car to the mandatory inspection at low speed and hope the problem does not occur during the inspection, if you're planning to postpone replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T17:12:24.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2015-12-25T17:35:18.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely that this sensor has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is why does the MIL only come on above 70mph. The answer lies not in the sensor but how and when the sensor is tested by the PCM. Every sensor (and actuator) in the engine control system is tested by the software, but not all the time. Each sensor has its own set of test entry conditions; each OEM will vary when and how each is tested. Regulatory rules define test conditions for a few of the parts in this system but not all, so the OEM's are free to choose when they perform the tests. Their primary goal when designing the software is to keep the MIL off whenever possible while having the system satisfy the minimum regulatory requirements. The solutions they have chosen over the years vary greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the case of this OEM, with software written at this time, they test resistance on this sensor at or above 70mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next question is why does the MIL go off after a few trips? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regulations allow the light to be turned off after two trips in which the part passes an on-board test. There are two possible cases to explain this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The resistance test is run at power on and it passes that test. This type of circuit test is most commonly done at power on. Or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) VW wrote the code incorrectly. The CARB regulations were extensively rewritten for the 2004 model because of significant errors such at this is anomaly implies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T20:30:15.990" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T20:30:15.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18639" CreationDate="2015-12-25T18:43:20.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say where you live, so I'm going to use the Finnish insurance system as an example. There is mandatory &quot;traffic insurance&quot; to pay for all damages you have caused with the exception of damage to your own car. There is also optional &quot;car insurance&quot; to pay for damages you have caused to your own car (with the exception of a small sum you have to pay). The &quot;car insurance&quot; generally requires you to pay immediately 200-300 EUR whatever the damage amount is. Furthermore, if you use insurance, your insurance premiums will rise for a few years. I once calculated that for somebody who doesn't use the insurance frequently, this effect is about 600 EUR. So, the total is about 800-900 EUR. There may therefore be a chance that the total costs for you would be less than 1000 dollars (assuming it's US dollars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a far more serious damage to my bumper cover and they estimated the amount was 600 EUR if bumper cover is repaired (by repainting only half of it) or 1200 EUR if bumper cover is replaced. Turns out there was damage to other parts too, so the total bill ended up being 1200 EUR of which 600 EUR was for repairing the bumper cover and 600 EUR for other damage. But in your case I'm certain the bumper cover is the only damaged component. Therefore, I would consider bumper cover repair as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always the option of not fixing the problem. I had a scratch on my front bumper cover that wasn't so annoying I would want to fix the problem given that I knew it is an expensive job to repaint a bumper cover. Turns out somebody carelessly backing up hit my car and I got a new bumper cover (along with the failed structural components of the bumper) for free. Of course, the odds of this happening are low, but it can happen. Bumper covers are made from plastic so damage to the paint won't cause rust. You can repair it anytime you want, so postponing repair is an option. If I had damaged paint on a metal part, I would fix it immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decide if you want to repair it. You can always postpone repair if you have a tight budget.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask somebody specializing for bumper repair how much it would cost to repair the bumper. They probably can also estimate how much it would cost to replace the bumper. Almost always bumper repair is cheaper for minor damage like in your case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use whatever information you have to estimate how much your insurance premiums would rise and what other costs there are for using your insurance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, there's a good chance that it costs less than 1000 dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T18:43:20.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2015-12-25T19:21:04.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gears for gearboxes are usually spur gears (noisy but stronger) and / or helical gears (silent but weaker). If there are any others I haven't heard of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With spur gears, and only once you are in motion, you can do a clutch-less shift relatively easy, especially if you match the correct RPM. This would do a bit of additional wear on the gearbox. The good news is you are not wearing out the clutch &amp;amp; clutch bearing if you make a clutch-less shift. It is up to you which you will wear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With helical gears, it is also possible to do clutch-less shifts but again, only in motion. But, unlike spur gears, you will feel some resistance and hear noises. All of which are pointing out the additional wear you are creating in the gearbox (much more than with spur gears). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I would not even think about doing that in this case, severe damage to your transmission may occur. Of course you can do that if you are in danger, but forget it in your daily driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13847" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T17:23:58.627" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T17:23:58.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23781" CreationDate="2015-12-25T19:28:30.633" Score="6" ViewCount="11051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a small screw in my rear winter tire, like real small and thought it wouldn't leak, but it did, so I plugged it. It holds air correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some people freak about plugging/patching tires near the shoulder or outside the last &quot;water&quot; tread. Mine is close to that (about 1&quot; from the sidewall), but also 1/2&quot; from that last water tread. Am I OK? I had no trouble plugging it, and I think that if the small screw would have hit the shoulder, since it's the thickest part, it would haven't leak air.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I keep it like that or I absolutely need a patch at the shop? Tire was never flat even with the screw, so no internal tire damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires are Run flats with plenty of good treads (which is why I don't feel like just trashing it). Winter tires, no high speed stuff, daily driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5nrD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5nrD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2023-01-01T21:28:18.377" Title="Plugged tire, should I patch it if it holds air or I'm ok?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2015-12-25T19:41:28.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find any solid conclusions on the VW forums regarding the root cause for this behavior, but there are some clues as to what could be causing this from the diagnostic code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fred Wilson's answer remains a distinct possibility but I struggle to reason with why the engine computer would choose to throw a code/MIL for a bad sensor on a speed-based condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, a far more plausible explanation for what you're observing is that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;it is an intermittent issue due to loose wiring&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Internal resistance too high&lt;/em&gt;&quot; might be interpreted to apply to the situation where the circuit for the O2 sensor signal becomes open (close to infinite resistance)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is plausible that the loose connection could have been induced by heavy braking, which would explain why you see the problem only after your sudden-braking incident&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle surpasses a certain speed, it may load the O2 sensor connector or wiring in a way that the circuit becomes open (mainly wind, aerodynamic drag, vibrations)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect an O2 sensor itself to work intermittently. It's either giving a signal or it's kaput&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Suggestions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Confirm that you have good signal coming from the O2 using VAG-COM or a scan tool. Given the intermittency of the problem, I don't think you have a bad sensor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the wiring harness and make sure that the connections are solid. If you don't see anything remiss, hit both male and female sides of the connectors with some electronic contact cleaner before reconnecting them&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be tough to diagnose such issues over the Internet, but based on the information provided I believe this would fit the symptoms like a glove. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T19:41:28.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23779" CreationDate="2015-12-25T19:51:04.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks fine to me for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the size and shape of the hole can be fixed by a tire plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you plugged it and it is holding pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the plug is in a flat portion of the tire profile, well away from the shoulder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if done properly, plugs can often outlast the useful life of the tire (so longevity isn't a concern)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would consider applying a patch from the inside if the shape of the puncture is odd or unsuitable for a tire plug (more like a tear than a hole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T19:57:45.463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T19:57:45.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T20:33:18.257" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always wondered how seat belts work. If you try to move the seat belt at a low speed, there is nothing to prevent the movement, allowing adjusting the seat belt to a correct length. However, movement at a high speed is disallowed. There is some kind of mechanism that is able to detect the speed or the acceleration and prevent movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the mechanism work? Does it detect speed or acceleration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the chances that the mechanism fails to work in a crash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T21:17:58.633" Title="How does seat belt allow movement at slow speed but disallow at high speed?" Tags="|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23783" CreationDate="2015-12-25T21:17:58.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two primary mechanisms that work in combination. The first resembles a pendulum. While the pendulum is vertical the belt works fine. When there is sudden deceleration the pendulum swings forward engaging a cog wheel locking the belt. The weight and length of the pendulum is specifically selected to only engage at or above a predetermined deceleration. The problem with this is that it only responds to a deceleration driving forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is a set of flyweights. The flyweights are held in by specially calibrated springs and are attached to the main seat belt spool. When the seat belt pulls out suddenly the main spool spins really fast. This spinning causes centripetal forces that overcome the springs and cause the weights to fly out and engage a cog wheel locking the belt. This mechanism takes care of any sudden spooling out of the belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All seat belts have some variant of these two mechanisms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T21:17:58.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T21:46:24.663" Score="3" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if my clutch plate can be the reason that my top speed is now lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top speed of my bike is 115.  I drove my bike after the clutch plate replacement and the top speed is now 90- 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can My clutch plate replacement cause this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13849" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T16:53:03.207" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T21:44:56.233" Title="Top speed of my Bajaj Pulsar 135 is decreased after changing Clutch plate" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|clutch|bajaj|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13066" CreationDate="2015-12-25T21:53:09.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how hard &quot;very hard&quot; means, but there is a system to prevent turning the steering wheel when the key is not inserted. If you have accidentally turned the steering wheel when the key is not inserted, the lock may engage, and it may then be possible that you cannot freely turn the key without either turning the steering wheel to the left or to the right at the same time as trying to turn the key. However, not much force is required for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the poster wasn't very specific on what &quot;nothing happens&quot; means. Does it mean that the key can be freely turned but the car doesn't start? Or does it mean that they key cannot be freely turned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it means that they key cannot be freely turned, I would assume there is something wrong in this lock mechanism to prevent turning the steering wheel without the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T21:53:09.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T21:54:36.560" Score="1" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that on many cars using hydraulic power steering, if you fully turn the steering wheel to the left or to the right, you hear a sound coming from somewhere in the hydraulic power steering system. On electric power steering systems, however, you don't hear such a sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is making this sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it harmful to fully turn the steering wheel to the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T22:11:32.573" Title="Can hydraulic power steering be damaged if fully turning the steering wheel to the left or to the right?" Tags="|power-steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-26T10:51:22.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24668" CreationDate="2015-12-25T22:11:09.170" Score="9" ViewCount="9281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my 2011 Toyota Yaris manual transmission car where the first gear occasionally doesn't engage when at standstill. This happens rarely, probably once per month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do to get the first gear to engage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I first try moving the selector back to neutral and to first gear again without releasing the clutch. Sometimes this helps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I try moving the selector to another gear (usually the second gear) and to first gear again. This helps often but not always.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If both previous steps have failed, I move the selector to neutral, release the clutch, press the clutch again and engage the first gear. This has never failed to work, although it is possible (but extremely rare) that I have to do this twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem happens with the reverse too, probably more often than with the first gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is somewhat annoying because it may mean extra few seconds before managing to drive from a stoplight. I have read from online forums that other Yaris owners have had this problem, too, so I assume it is a feature of the transmission rather than a genuine problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How common is this phenomenon on other types of cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T22:29:17.453" Title="Is it common to fail engaging first gear or a manual transmission car occasionally?" Tags="|toyota|yaris|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23787" CreationDate="2015-12-25T22:11:32.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic power steering systems use pressure to assist in turning the wheels. The more assist is needed the more pressure is provided. When the wheels reach the end of travel the maximum pressure is applied. When this occurs a special pressure relieve valve activates to make sure that the pressure does not exceed safe limits. This is the sound you hear. This in no way damages the steering system. The pump is capable of producing much more pressure and the pressure relief valve makes sure it does not damage itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With electric steering systems the system is aware where in the travel it is. When the lock condition is reached the system stops providing assist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T22:11:32.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2015-12-25T22:13:26.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay I have lived through this and replacing the seals does need to happen when this becomes a problem. However, seals going bad are not always the problem. Sometimes it is simply a matter of the seals or the metal they contact got wet while the doors are open then you close them and they freeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side here is this can also ruin the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hands down fix is one I tried on my wife's car a few years ago when we were having a colder than normal winter. After all the above trick only lasted a few weeks at a time lead me to experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best success by far was &lt;strong&gt;Painters Tape&lt;/strong&gt;. You know the Green or Blue tape that peels off with ease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prep was cleaning the painted metal in the door jam, I used paper towel with 409 or such cleaner and followed that with window clearer. I used the window clearer to remove any film left behind by the first cleaner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After I was sure the area was free off dirt and was nice and dry I applied the tape to the seal matting surface. Because of shape and curves of the door jam I found it best to apply the tape in three to eight in strips and yes ripping the tape is okay, I did as I didn't have scissors close by when I started. After applying the tape I ran my thumb over it to be sure it was stuck down completely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I decided to try the tape my concept was that the tape would be a better surface when moisture was an issue, and if it did freeze my hope was it would pull the tape loose allowing the door to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well it never froze shut. One application of tape has been in place for going on three years. During that time or winters have been as low as -2 F and the door opens without effort.&#xA;Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13851" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2017-11-30T09:43:10.873" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T09:43:10.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23712" CreationDate="2015-12-25T23:16:47.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you say that the pedal is sucked to the floor, the only thing that could be causing this is a fault in the brake booster (servo).  The booster uses vacuum from the engine to assist pressure from your foot when pressing the brake.  If there is a fault in the valve mechanism inside the booster, then the vacuum from the engine will keep assisting until the pedal hits the floor as you describe.  Presumably this only happens when the engine is running.  If you turn the engine off, does the pedal rise again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T23:16:47.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T00:38:30.687" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a Golf 4 and the I had to refill the box of water every month and this is not a normal case cuz the car shouldnt use the water , so i change the box and now it gets empty every 2 days ... Is the problem with the way i changed it or there is a leak of water somewhere and i have to search where it is cz i think i didnt vent it after replacing the new one ... Anyone could help ? And sry about my english&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T09:47:46.753" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T09:47:46.753" Title="Golf 4 water loss" Tags="|vw|golf|water-leak|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-10-15T14:39:53.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23785" CreationDate="2015-12-26T00:41:34.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way changing a clutch plate is going to limit your top speed. There are two big things which can limit it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission/final gearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest engine power is down somewhat for some reason, because I doubt your final gearing ratio has had any changes to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T00:41:34.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7125" CreationDate="2015-12-26T04:38:25.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should have your rotors turned when changing break pads its cheap and you will feel better knowing everything is in good shape so why not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13853" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T04:38:25.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23370" CreationDate="2015-12-26T07:07:13.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I've been unable to find a vehicle this works on. In principle of course, where it works, it will be because the central locking mistakenly thinks the door is ajar. It doesn't work on every brand of car though. At least on my Toyota, and my wife's Suzuki, the mechanism appears to be specifically designed to avoid such tampering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say, I have a strong suspicion this is a hoax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jamming the remote with another -- since they all use the same carrier frequency -- is much more effective and common among thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13319" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T07:07:13.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23779" CreationDate="2015-12-26T07:32:33.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tire Industry Association is the keeper of standards for tires. These are the methods and standards tire manufactures want us to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holes inside the area shown are allowed to be patched, outside of this the tire is to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbfgT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbfgT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire patch area&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The state of the art for a hole is too install a plug patch from the inside of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOekF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOekF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire plug patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technicians will perform other repairs such as string plugs installed from the outside and patches installed on sidewalls, these types of repairs are not recommended by tire manufactures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page has a more thorough discussion of the tire repair standards. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T07:32:33.540" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2015-12-26T09:22:12.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. Proper application is important! Do NOT get grease between the terminals! This will inhibit good connection and shorten battery life. Vaseline was used for many decades, but with its own downsides. Vaseline is petroleum based, and when it gets hot it likes to run. This can cause the grease to penetrate between connections and cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicon based dielectric compound works extremely well because silicon won't run when it gets hot. After the silicon sees high temperatures, it will start to vulcanize. That's a fancy term for saying it will turn more solid, rather than liquid. This attribute makes it better suited for this role than petroleum jelly, and it is safe for rubber too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get the grease between the connection, expect to have issues down the road. It might be 2 months, or 2 years. But eventually that grease will turn solid, and you will cause a voltage drop across the terminals. I don't need to go into battery chemistry here, but having too much voltage drop across the battery terminals will shorten the battery's lifespan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dielectric grease works well to prevent corrosion, but anti-corrosive spray works better in my opinion. It gets in places your fingers can't get the grease to. Dielectric grease can be used in between electrical connections, but only those utilizing low-current. Battery terminals are high current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13855" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T09:22:12.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23801" CreationDate="2015-12-26T14:51:43.043" Score="5" ViewCount="16211" Body="&lt;p&gt;a power steering hose leaked near my drive belt and it is squealing a bit.  I have fixed the leaky hose and need to clean up the mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to clean the drive belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12672" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:49:01.303" Title="What do you use to clean oil off of drive belt" Tags="|oil-leak|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23799" CreationDate="2015-12-26T15:49:01.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick googling reveals that drive belts may be damaged by oil leaks. Thus, I would change the drive belt instead of trying to clean it. Drive belts are cheap, but the trouble caused by a failed drive belt is very annoying. If the leak has been there for a long amount time, especially then I would heavily consider changing the drive belt instead of cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you clean the drive belt, you need to use a solvent that is capable of dissolving oil but will not damage the rubber of the drive belt. Quick googling reveals that ehow.com recommends a soapy water solution to clean oil from a drive belt (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/info_12039924_can-clean-oil-drive-belt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/info_12039924_can-clean-oil-drive-belt.html&lt;/a&gt;). This is probably good advice, as more effective solvents may damage the rubber of the drive belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T15:49:01.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18647" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:04:36.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the accepted answer answers this question acceptably. The reason for hybrid vehicles having a mechanical power transfer pathway is that mechanical power transfer has a higher efficiency than electric power transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read somewhere (but cannot find the source right now) that the electrical power transfer pathway is approximately 70% efficient in Toyota Prius. To understand this low efficiency, consider that it has a motor-generator operating as a generator, power electronic components, cables, and a motor-generator operating as a motor. Quite many components. This efficiency is considerably lower than the efficiency of the mechanical power transfer pathway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, Toyota Prius has both mechanical and electrical power transfer pathways. It has a gearbox with one speed and constant ratio but three axles, two of which have electric motors. Changing how much power will be transferred through the electrical pathway changes the relative speeds of the input and output axles, and thus it functions as an electrical continuously variable transmission (eCVT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the mechanical pathway is the higher efficiency. The reason for the electrical pathway is that it allows CVT operation with very low cost of components and higher reliability than traditional CVTs. And, also to provide regenerative braking and power boost to the internal combustion engine from a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you seen water cooling in a conventional manual transmission? Probably not. However, the inverters in Prius are water cooled due to the high amount of waste heat produced. This illustrates that inverters are less efficient than mechanical transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T16:04:36.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23811" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:15:30.043" Score="15" ViewCount="10737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that many hybrid vehicles have little or no trailer towing capacity. For example, the Toyota Auris Touring Sports hybrid model has 375 kg trailer towing capacity (unbraked + braked) whereas the non-hybrid model has 450 kg unbraked and much higher braked towing capacity. The Auris non-Touring-Sports model in the hybrid variant cannot tow a trailer, and Gen1-Gen3 Priuses also cannot tow a trailer. The Yaris hybrid model cannot tow a trailer, but the Yaris non-hybrid can tow 550 kg unbraked and much higher braked trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this the case? Considering that in Finland, the maximum speed allowed for trailer towing is 80 km/h, and that you can drive continuously for 120 km/h with no trailer, surely the load trailer towing puts on the engine, inverters and motor-generators is lower than the load when driving faster than permitted with a trailer. Similarly, hybrid vehicles can be used in a hilly terrain. Driving up a hill is heavier on the system than towing a trailer on a flat land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, this seems to be changing. The Gen4 Prius has 725 kg trailer capacity (braked + unbraked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the trailer towing capacity on many old hybrids low or even zero?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this situation changing now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="13825" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T14:56:56.007" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T09:34:15.297" Title="Why do many hybrids have little or no trailer towing capacity?" Tags="|trailer|hybrid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:21:44.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't entirely agree with the upvoted answer. I have read somewhere (but cannot locate the source right now) that the electrical power transfer pathway is 70% efficient in Toyota Prius, whereas the mechanical power transfer pathway is probably over 90% efficient. Consider this: the electrical components (inverters) have water cooling, but the mechanical power transfer components do not. This illustrates that the electrical components produce more heat than the mechanical components, and are thus less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that the electrical components would need to be much bigger to have series hybrid operation. In a series-parallel hybrid, part of the power is transferred mechanically, and thus only part needs to be transferred electrically. Therefore the electrical components can be small. But this is not the only reason: efficiency is another major reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, if you're building a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV), you need to have big electrical components. Then you could in theory have series hybrid operation. But it would not make sense, because PHEVs are occasionally driven long distances, and then the power transfer from the gasoline engine to the wheels needs to be as efficient as possible. Efficient power transfer means mechanical power transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T16:21:44.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24249" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:35:20.040" Score="6" ViewCount="10466" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an excellent Q&amp;amp;A about why diesel engines have lower redline RPMs (about 4500 RPM) than gasoline engines (about 6500 RPM). The reason is related to the combustion of diesel fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what would happen if you manage to over-rev a diesel engine to, say, 5500 RPM by downshifting a manual transmission on a freeway? Surely, the engine management system would detect an over-RPM condition and would stop diesel fuel injection. Then there is no combustion happening, and the reason for diesel engines having a lower redline does not seem valid anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of gasoline engines is that they generally break when managing to over-rev them. Does a diesel engine break when running at 5500 RPM? If so, why does this happen if gasoline engines can take 6500 RPM and if diesel engines are generally more sturdy than gasoline engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T06:42:02.630" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T23:22:16.370" Title="Can diesel engine be harmed as easily as gasoline engine by over-revving?" Tags="|engine|diesel|rpm|gasoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:53:12.973" Score="4" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;When recently changing my summer wheels to winter wheels on a front-wheel drive car, I noticed that the summer tire on the front right had only 4mm of tread left whereas all other tires had 5mm of tread left. The legal limit is 1.6mm of tread for summer tires, so there is still plenty left. The car was driven probably only 4000km with the summer wheels in these positions, but there is 30000km total on the summer tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always installed the wheels to random positions, so I don't keep track which wheels were on the front and which on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the chances that there is an alignment problem with the car? Or is it possible that the 4mm tire is just an unlucky one that has been randomly installed to the front always, and it is more worn for this reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I install the tire with 4mm tread next? One option is safety: install it to the front to prevent dangerously losing traction on the rear. Another option is considering that on FWD cars, front tires wear quicker, so the 4mm tire should be installed to the rear to have more even wear in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have right-handed traffic in Finland. I have thought that there is probably more water on roads on the driver's side (left), so no matter whether I install the 4mm tire to rear or front, I should install it to the right. Is this correct thinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:07:31.390" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T16:53:32.000" Title="One tire worn 1mm more, what are the chances of an alignment problem?" Tags="|tires|alignment|wear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:58:54.317" Score="5" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a truck with a full tank of gas (12-16 gallons?) that's been sitting for 12 months and I'm about to change the fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truck can barely make it around the block due to stalling out under load. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and verified they're all sparking (so ignition coil packs are fine), and I've replaced the fuel filter and determined that the fuel pump is fine. The next thing I want to try is replacing the fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want the old gas to gum them up as soon as I get them in. Should I try to get the gasoline out of the tank before I put in new injectors? And if so, how do I do it and how do I deal with the old gas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have a really hard time storing and getting rid of 16 gallons. I could burn the gas up by letting the truck idle for several hours, but that seems like a horrible thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11915" LastEditorDisplayName="user11915" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T19:33:51.110" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:38:02.363" Title="Do I need to eliminate old gas before changing fuel injectors?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|disposal|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23808" CreationDate="2015-12-26T17:06:33.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tank was full up (or nearly full) there isn't a lot of space for the fuel to absorb moisture. If you can draw some fuel out to see how it looks, I'd go with that. If the gasoline is a rich amber color, consider getting it drained. If it's still fairly clear (towards looking like water), then it is probably fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T17:06:33.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T17:37:48.880" Score="6" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always wondered why there is no drop-in biogasoline like there is drop-in biodiesel. For example, NEXBTL by Neste can be run at 100% mixture in conventional diesel engines. It is different from conventional fatty acid methyl ester type of biodiesel that may require engine modifications. Because NEXBTL is chemically similar to conventional petrodiesel, no modifications are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast to this, the bio-equivalent of gasoline is generally ethanol. Ethanol fuel has poor cold start properties and may require engine component replacements. For example, ethanol may damage fuel lines and seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems strange to me that if drop-in biodiesel has been produced, why drop-in biogasoline has not been produced. Instead, they produce ethanol the use of which at high concentrations requires vehicle modifications. It feels especially strange to me that the R&amp;amp;D effort was spent in developing drop-in biodiesel, because diesel engines have higher NOx pollution and particulate matter pollution than gasoline engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that makes producing drop-in biogasoline much harder than drop-in biodiesel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm especially worried about the situation, because I have a gasoline car that allows running only 10% ethanol and they are already selling 10% ethanol in gasoline here. The future targets have a much larger bio-component in transportation fuels. I'm not sure if it makes sense to buy a more environmentally friendly car at great cost either, because e.g. the Prius also allows only 10% ethanol, meaning the newly purchased car could become obsolete very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T19:16:35.110" Title="Why is there no drop-in biogasoline like there is drop-in biodiesel (e.g. NEXBTL)?" Tags="|diesel|gasoline|ethanol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23804" CreationDate="2015-12-26T18:21:40.900" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake performance, or vehicle stability, not motive power are the primary concerns with trailer limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why no trailers in early hybrids?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several considerations; first is the battery. In hybrids with regenerative braking the electric motors act as generators producing electricity. Now that electricity has be put somewhere; it goes into the battery. But what if the battery becomes fully charged on a long downhill?  Now were do the electrons go. The design has the system switch to the regular service brakes and stop regenerative braking. Now the power available in the brake system governs stopping performance.The extra mass of a trailer causes the switch to happen much sooner. Hybrid designs vary in service brake power and heat load capacity. When brakes overheat on a long downhill effectiveness falls of dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is the trailer towing capacity on many old hybrids low or even zero?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possibly in the earlier era engineering concerns about braking and or stability won out of the marketing departments demands for features to advertise. Engineering was more concerned with proving the design than peripheral concerns such as tow capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this situation changing now?&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;More experience with, and changes too, the hybrid design allows engineering to feel confident of their design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The design must be able to handle speeds higher than the highest allowed speed limit worldwide, plus and extra safety factor for emergencies. In my area maximum speed allowed it 60 mph (96 kph)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T18:21:40.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22206" CreationDate="2015-12-26T21:39:36.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Possible Issues/Symptoms&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What symptoms will this cause and could this be related to the issues I'm seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A clogged catalytic converter.  A clogged catalytic converter can cause many of these symptoms.  See this Q&amp;amp;A regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23503/how-can-i-tell-if-i-have-bad-cats&quot;&gt;bad catalytic converters from @Zaid.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clogged fuel injectors.  If they are having any type of restriction you may have a lean condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad fuel pump.  This can result in fuel starvation and reflects the symptoms you are seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad/Damaged 02 sensor.  If your O2 sensors are bad this can result in sending bad data to the ECU.  The ECU may be telling the injectors to send the wrong amount of fuel due to the bad data the ECU is receiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more possible issues that another resource may be able to illuminate for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil pump pulley doesn't need to be 'timed' so that should not be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing your cam and crank timed properly together then this is more than likely not your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:39:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23808" CreationDate="2015-12-26T21:58:46.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd get the tank drained and put in fresh petrol. Petrol does go stale, I've had it in less time but not a full tank so I was able to add more fuel to get going. Even a full tank will still be exposed to the air in the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine it'll be cheaper to drain the tank than get x number of new injectors. Depending on the age of the injectors, they can be cleaned if you suspect they are causing part of the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T22:38:02.363" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:38:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2015-12-26T22:17:15.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Chains for Scooters and Small Bikes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the primary reasons revolves around the type of rider that purchases these bikes and their mentality toward riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 1970's many riders were starting off on these vehicles and consequently were not wearing the standard safety gear that a more seasoned rider would wear.  As a result scarves, pant legs, etc. were getting pulled into the chain and sprocket and injuring riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, many of the manufacturers began putting fully enclosed chain guards on these types of vehicles.  Later, when shaft drive came about, these obviously went away, mostly on scooters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:17:15.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23817" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-26T22:36:14.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A body control module is a type of ECU (electronic control unit). A BCM controls power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, immobilizer system, central locking, individual locking, window disable and other aspects of a vehicles body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An Image of a BCM&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUhf2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUhf2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:45:44.530" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:45:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23818" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-26T22:36:14.937" Score="0" Body="Body Control Module - An ECU that controls various aspect of the cars body." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T22:36:14.937" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T22:36:14.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23807" CreationDate="2015-12-26T23:04:55.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of vehicle configuration the best tires, with deepest tread, go on the rear. This is to ensure that the rear wheels loose friction contact with the road surface last in wet road conditions. When traction is lost on the rear axle before the front the result is that the rear of the vehicle wants to swap ends because the center of mass is closer to the front. This is particularly important in front wheel drive vehicles because the center of mass is farther forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace rear tires when they reach 3mm for best performance in hydroplaning weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T23:04:55.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23820" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:40:22.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of the Aprilia logo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvQxb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvQxb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Established 1945 after WWII started as a manufacturer of bicycles and moved onto to build scooters and small displacement motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite being a rather small company in the world of motorcycles Aprilia has contested and won a vast quantity of world titles in various grand prix and superbike world championships over the years.  In 2010 Aprilia reached it's 276th grand prix racing victory making it the most successful motorcycle racing manufacturer in history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current models that have achieved wide success include the RSV two cylinder 1,000cc platforms such as the Mille and the Tuono.  Recently Aprilia depricated the two-cylinder Rotax engine and implemented the RSV4, a v-four configured platform with 16 valves and DOHC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:27:27.563" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:27:27.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23821" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:40:22.717" Score="0" Body="An Italian motorcycle and scooter manufacturer." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T00:40:22.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:40:22.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23822" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Produced from 1990 to 2010.  This vehicle has a diesel ICE and classified as a compact car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23823" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" Score="0" Body="A car model manufactured by Citroen." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:42:57.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23866" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:49:28.890" Score="2" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Craftsmen 917.270930 and I am having a difficult time getting it to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key, The fly wheel spins a few rotations and stops ( No clicking noises ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery sits at 12.5ish volts. When I turn the key, the battery drops to 9.5ish volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the red volt meter wire to the red wire coming to the starter from the solenoid and the black volt meter wire to the mower chassis I read 9.5ish volts when I turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the culprit is the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other troubleshooting procedures I should take before purchasing a new starter motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:53:07.657" Title="Trouble Shooting Lawn Tractor Starter Engine" Tags="|starter|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23825" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Combustion Process&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston is pulled down by the connecting rod attached to the crankshaft as the intake valve opens.  The combustion charge is pulled down into the bore of the cylinder as the piston descends.  The intake valve closes at the bottom of the piston stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the crank rotates the connecting rod pushes the piston to the top of the cylinder bore.  The air fuel mixture is compressed by the rising piston.  Just before TDC (top dead center) the spark plug has an electric charge jump across it's center and ground electrodes igniting the air fuel mixture in a process called combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combustion of the compressed air fuel mixture expands as the gasses undergo rapid oxidation, pushing the piston down the bore of the cylinder thereby forcing the connecting rod down and forcing the crankshaft to spin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the power stroke the exhaust valve begins to open allowing the exhaust gasses to escape.  The piston begins to rise again in the cylinder forcing any remaining exhaust gasses to be pushed out of the cylinder and into the exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Illustration of the 4 cycle combustion process.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPbHD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPbHD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23826" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" Score="0" Body="Four stroke refers to the quantity of times a piston travel the bore of an ICE in order to complete the combustion process." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T00:56:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23827" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23828" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" Score="0" Body="A safety light on vehicles standardized as red.  A brake light will become illuminated through the use of a vehicles braking system where a switch indicating the use of a brake pedal is actuated to allow the flow of electricity to lights in order to forewarn motorists to the rear of the vehicle that the operator is decelerating.  " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:02:25.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23829" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23830" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" Score="0" Body="A sensor that informs the ECU of a camshafts position." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:04:23.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23831" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:11:25.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The image below depicts an exhaust and an intake camshaft for a DOHC ICE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMnsG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMnsG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the image below that camshafts can be see at the top of the engine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is of a 4 cycle DOHC (Dual Overhead Cam) design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQl0j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mQl0j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An Image of a cam lobe, a component of the camshaft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKdKN.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKdKN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:20:44.133" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:20:44.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23832" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:11:25.080" Score="0" Body="A shaft in an ICE that actuates components that open valves into the combustion chamber to allow the flow of necessary gasses in order for a combustion process to function." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:11:25.080" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:11:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23833" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Honda CBR929RR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This model is the fifth generation of the RR series.  Introduced in 2000 this design used fuel injection, an over-square engine design, titanium exhaust system, inverted front forks and an engine mounted swing-arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An image of a Honda CBR929RR&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MY9Fs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MY9Fs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23834" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" Score="0" Body="A motorcycle produced by Honda" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:43:36.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23835" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of Brake Calipers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake caliper below is depicted with red lettering.  This brake caliper is being used in an automotive application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgrDV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgrDV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23836" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" Score="0" Body="Hydraulic device that compresses brake pads against spinning brake discs in order to create a higher friction co-efficient to reduce a vehicles forward or rearward motion." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:49:30.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23837" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image depiction the compression stroke of the 4 stroke engine cycle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Mixg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Mixg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23838" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" Score="0" Body="One of the four internal combustion engine strokes necessary for the complete combustion process to occur.  The compression stroke compresses an air fuel mixture and prepares for it ignition by spark." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T01:59:23.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:29:47.637" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1978 Ford 302 is using a lot of water. There is no oil in the water or no water in the oil and I cant find any leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13866" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T15:26:17.493" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T15:28:35.840" Title="1978 Ford 302 is using a lot of water" Tags="|ford|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Paint Scratches effecting the various layers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOJcM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOJcM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" Score="0" Body="Scatches in a cars protective paint layer on the outside of the vehicle." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:38:56.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:40:02.693" Score="3" ViewCount="2165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the heads redone by a engine tech, but for some reason after it starts I get this clacking knocking like sound. The timing is correct. I'm assuming the firing order is correct as well, But just to be on the safe side, in case it is not, does anyone know the exact precise order for 1999 Toyota Camry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I can get some answers. Thank you all in advance. Your help is highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13868" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T12:10:57.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T06:40:15.370" Title="What is causing a clacking knocking like sound on my toyota camry 1999" Tags="|engine|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:41:31.717" Score="10" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Toyota Vitz 2007, I hear a sharp whining noise coming from the rear of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This noise does not always happen. When the vehicle is started, the noise is not there. But after driving for 15 - 20 minutes, the noise starts. The noise is more apparent when the car is stopped. Also, it gets reduced (sometimes stops) when in parking gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be similar to the problem described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/228596-high-pitched-whining-noise-from-rear-of-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread. The cause for the problem in that thread was the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fuel pump got damaged during a cleanup and I had to replace the pump housing. The electric motor was not replaced. The noise was there before the replacement and the noise is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this noise? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the fuel pump, do I have to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T18:34:00.150" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T09:29:35.857" Title="Sharp whining noise coming from rear of the car" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|noise|vitz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23845" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a muffler&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpwec.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tpwec.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23846" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" Score="0" Body="A noise suppression device that is a component of the exhaust system." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:46:57.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23847" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Jack&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of jacks used to raise vehicles for various maintenance purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic Floor Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scissor Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pneumatic Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strand Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Farm Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a hydraulic floor jack&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hko84.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hko84.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23848" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" Score="0" Body="A device used to elevate a vehicle off the ground for various purposes." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:57:52.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23849" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a parking brake&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laFdY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laFdY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23850" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" Score="0" Body="A manual cable operated brake used to lock a vehicle into place at a given location when it is parked." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T02:59:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23851" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A vehicle frame, often called a chassis, is the main support and mounting system for the various components required to make a vehicle operational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of frames.  The frame has evolved over time to incorporate various systems of a vehicle within it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ladder Frame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unibody&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perimeter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;X-Frame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Backbone Tube&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Platform Frame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a modern unibody frame&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OK2Z8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OK2Z8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23852" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" Score="0" Body="A load bearing structure of a vehicle." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T03:08:48.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15869" CreationDate="2015-12-27T03:41:55.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stalling symptoms could be explained by a fuel pump relay that doesn't like heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this because the vehicle stalled seemingly intermittently, but whenever the car had been running for quite some time, only for it to start up again after a few minutes (allowing the relay to cool down a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the relay is the root cause, the fix would be to simply replace it with a new unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T03:41:55.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23110" CreationDate="2015-12-27T04:06:02.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of this complex of symptoms is leaking intake manifold gaskets. Test for this by spraying a squirt of carburetor cleaner up and around the intake manifold. If the engine smooths out for a few seconds then there is a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second most common cause is failure of the mass air flow sensor (MAF). I offer no quick tests for this part short of swapping in a new one. Testing is done with graphing scan tool data and having an experience person interpret this data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other failures of possible, but this covers 90% of the problems of this type on this engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T04:06:02.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22290" CreationDate="2015-12-27T04:47:50.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the tests already completed and the stated symptoms and the lack of trouble codes, the most likely failure is an inoperative or stuck closed idle air control valve (IACV). The fact that is runs with the throttle open a bit verifies the engine and fuel control system operates reasonable well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T04:47:50.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22290" CreationDate="2015-12-27T06:05:16.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the methodical approach taken to solve this issue. In the absence of concrete data from a scan tool it will be hard to definitively tell what the root cause is, but there are some prime suspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing made conspicuous by its absence is the condition of the throttle plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the throttle plate was partially stuck due to the accumulation of gunk on the back face. If the throttle plate was open more than what it should be at idle, this could explain the &lt;em&gt;runs-well-when-cold, not-when-hot&lt;/em&gt; behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T06:05:16.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23861" CreationDate="2015-12-27T08:24:25.000" Score="7" ViewCount="14818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading another post that had mentioned seat belt pre-tensioners with no explanation of how they function and are activated.  From what I understand seat belt pre-tensioners are a one time use device.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how they work and as well as how long have they been in use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T20:51:09.883" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T20:51:09.883" Title="How do seat belt pretensioners work?" Tags="|safety|seat-belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T10:37:07.413" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Infiniti G37 coupe 2008&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosis: Some times I hear whistling coming from left part and brakes gets hard &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal to change the brake servo at 51,500 miles? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the possibility to repair it instead of changing it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should change all related parts with it? or just the servo it self?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13870" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T06:35:19.227" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T20:56:14.710" Title="Replace the brake servo at 51k?" Tags="|brakes|infiniti|g37|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T10:53:15.607" Score="7" ViewCount="3573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found something interesting on Wikipedia today: a hybrid turbocharger. This is a device that charges a battery with an exhaust gas turbine, and at the same time operates an air compressor using the battery to pack more air into the engine. As a benefit, the turbo lag is eliminated because the direct link between the turbine and the compressor is eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this device has two independent parts that can be used without each other: the exhaust gas turbine generator and the compressor. You probably need a heftier battery, too, than what is used in conventional vehicles. Thus, in my opinion this device is most suitable to hybrid vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, hybrid vehicles have already direct electric boost, so I'm not certain that a compressor could be very beneficial. The turbine generator part, however, seems useful. There is lot of energy in exhaust gases and a turbine generator could recover some of it. In a hybrid vehicle there is good use for the recovered electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why no production hybrid vehicles use an exhaust gas turbine generator? Is the technology too immature? Too unreliable for the goal that hybrid vehicles should have greater reliability than conventional vehicles? Or are the potential gains of such exhaust energy recovery so minor that the solution wouldn't pay for itself? Or does the Atkinson cycle used in hybrid engines mean that the exhaust gases don't have as much excess energy than in the case of the Otto cycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T22:08:34.087" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:43:26.873" Title="Why no exhaust gas turbine generator in hybrid vehicles?" Tags="|exhaust|turbocharger|hybrid|thermodynamics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23864" CreationDate="2015-12-27T12:02:19.307" Score="5" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some problems which I suspected were related ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=US%2F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagnostic index at pg. 150 in 98 US WSM&lt;/a&gt; ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;idle speed too slow and excessive engine shake pg. 167&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hesitation / Stumble: Momentary pause at beginning of acceleration, or during acceleration pg. 170&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performance poor under load (i.e., power down when climbing hills)  pg. 174&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21028/rough-low-idle-and-engine-shakes-hesitation-and-lack-of-power/23671#23671&quot;&gt;the cause turned out to be the spark plugs&lt;/a&gt;, which seem to have gone bad due to large amounts of oil collecting in the spark plug holes due to a completely shot valve cover gasket.  One thing I'd like to point out is that defective spark plugs are not listed as a potential cause for any of these problems in the WSM.  The only ignition related issue listed for any of these is &lt;code&gt;Spark leak from hightension leads&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I solved the problem without changing out any other parts ( other than &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23558/what-controls-o2-sensor-lambda-cycling&quot;&gt;a defective O2 sensor&lt;/a&gt; ) or doing any unnecessary maintenance ( think cleaning &lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda626.net/topic/39618-iac-idle-air-control-throttle-body-cleaning-1993-2002-i4/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IAC&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mazda626.net/topic/41067-egr-inspection-cleaning-1993-2002/#entry361274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EGR&lt;/a&gt;, etc ) I still feel like it took me a long time to track down through a very long process of elimination, and a lucky guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if maybe there is some way I could have diagnosed the problem more quickly and in a more direct and certain manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean by that is something along the lines of, &quot;Oh, conditions X, Y and Z exist, so it must be the spark plugs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I'll describe the steps I went through and maybe all y'all can make some suggestions how I could have improved my diagnostic process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L ATX.  While this international version supports OBDII via J1850 PWM, it has no OBDII connector ( only the proprietary Mazda DLC ) and I am not sure how much of OBDII it actually implements as far as the types of errors it can detect and report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miscellaneous things, new air filter, PCV grommet, air intake hose and valve cover gasket, which I did just because they were needed but without relation to trying to solve this problem. I also did a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16486/what-are-some-seafoam-alternatives&quot;&gt;homebrew seafoam&lt;/a&gt; of the intake and the piston heads. I also had to remove the throttle body to replace a burst coolant hose which runs under the intake manifold, so I cleaned the TB while I had it off and replaced the TB gasket.  There was also a bad thermostat which I replaced. Also had to replace the battery which was dying.  Did I mention I got this car real cheap :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I didn't have a scan tool available, and there was no check engine light, so I just looked up the problems in the WSM and started testing the things which seemed easiest to test, and which were common to all three listed problems, like voltages of the EGR solenoid, the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor ( plus the gap between the sensor and the crank teeth).  I also did a power balance test which was inconclusive, and checked that all the timing marks lined up correctly.  I also checked cam to lifter clearances which were all in speck, although a few were clearly wearing at a much quicker rate than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a cigar test for air leaks, and found a very small one from an injector grommet, which I fixed, but didn't have any effect on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eliminated transmission problems since it was shifting into gear without any delay, and I didn't see anything unusual in the ATX fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unplugged the IAC while idling, the car stalled, which is what it's supposed to do according to the WSM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a vacuum test to see if anything stood out, but the vacuum was steady at 17 @ 650 rpm and 18 at 2k rpm, although the WSM says minimum is 18 at sea level.  I'm at about 950 meters above sea level, so that's probably a somewhat OK reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few weeks a scan tool arrived from the states.  There were no diagnostic trouble codes, KOEO and KOER self diagnostics ran without error, and long term fuel trim was close to zero, as was short term fuel trim except during moderate to hard acceleration, when it got as high as 14.5%.  I tried graphing various parameters during test drives, like TP_v, MAF, IAC, Engine Load, Fuel trims and Spark Advance and couldn't find anything that really stood out, other than that engine load seemed excessively high to me ( although I'm not sure if it actually was ), STFT jumped up to 14.5% on acceleration and the spark advance was all over the place, with a big dip then jump when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I asked a question regarding what seemed like wacky spark advance, and someone suggested looking that the O2 sensor which turned out to be defective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went for some more drives, did some more graphing and saw that at idle STFT was now oscillating between around 2.5 to -2.5 and LTFT was sticking around 1 to 1.5%.  Revving the engine to about 3k RPM would cause both STFT and LTFT to jump to about 5.5% with LTFT dipping to -5% after the rev before quickly returning to about 1%.  Nothing else really stood out to me, although maybe I just don't know what to look for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then did a spark test using a known good plug to check the wires and coil, which seemed OK, and a compression test which was also OK. I don't quite understand the vacuum numbers being at minimum acceptable levels in light of the fact that my compression numbers are no where near the minimum ( actually the compression was almost like a new engine ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hunch I replaced the plugs, based on reading about someone who had also had a bad valve cover gasket, with oil leaking into the plug holes and similar symptoms to mine who fixed the problem by replacing the coil, wires and plugs.  As I said, that completely solved all the above problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I could have done to narrow this problem down to the spark plugs more quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:12:30.963" Title="How to Improve My Diagnostic Process" Tags="|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23857" CreationDate="2015-12-27T12:34:36.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A seat belt pretensioner kind of resembles a gun. Under the seat by the center console there is a roughly 6 inch tube. Inside the tube is a slug with a pyrotechnic charge sitting behind it. The slug has a cable attached to it in such a way that when the slug is propelled down the tube the cable is retracted inside. The cable then is anchored at the bottom of the buckle.  When the pretentioner fires the seat belt buckle drops down several inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTEDE.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTEDE.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another kind of pretensioner lives in the B pillar where the seat belt spool resides. There are two general mechanism here but the idea is the same. The side of the spool has a cog wheel. Next to the cog wheel is a tube the directs something at the cog. That something can be a set of balls, that engage the cog like a gear and are propelled down the tube with a pyrotechnic charge. The other something is a rod with teeth cut in it. The rod is propelled down the tube it engages the cog. In both cases when the cog is engaged the cog will rotate the the set belt spool backwards several revolutions. This pulls the seat belt back into the B pillar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pH1bo.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pH1bo.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzYnf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzYnf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the mechanisms work along side the air bags. When the air bag computer decides it will deploy the front air bags it will then check if the seat belt is buckled. If it is buckled then before the air bad is deployed the pretensioner is activated. This is done to make sure that the occupant is pulled away from the air bag while it is deployed. While the air bag is deploying it is hard as a rock, only when the air bag finishes deploying does it become something soft to fall in to. The system is timed in such a way that when the pretensioner is done it stops holding the occupant back, by this time the airbag has finished deploying, allowing the occupant fall into a soft air bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system has been on cars for about 15 years. Today almost every car is equipped with this system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T12:34:36.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23882" CreationDate="2015-12-27T15:12:19.883" Score="9" ViewCount="6466" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have to stop the car but I know that I will be moving again soon, on the red light for example, should I shift to neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was learning how to drive, my instructor said that there is no problem in stopping for a long time with the car engaged on the first gear as long as the clutch pedal is &lt;strong&gt;fully pressed&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But everyone else says that even if the clutch pedal is fully pressed, the gearbox gets &lt;strong&gt;worn out&lt;/strong&gt;, so I should shift to neutral, is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not comfortable with the idea of shifting to neutral when stopped then shifting back to first gear to move, then shift to neutral to stop then shift back to first again, etc. especially on heavy traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13871" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T18:11:21.370" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T22:47:30.263" Title="When stopping, should I put the transmission in neutral?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23862" CreationDate="2015-12-27T15:28:56.203" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The gearbox does not get worn if the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Actually, if the gearbox could get worn depending on the position of the clutch pedal, it would get worn when the engine is connected to the gearbox, i.e. when the clutch pedal is not pressed. Then some parts of the gearbox are rotating. However, when you are stopped and the clutch is pressed, nothing in the gearbox is in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, the throwout bearing could get worn if you are stopped with the clutch pedal fully depressed. The throwout bearing translates the linear force from the clutch pedal to the rotating clutch assembly, and has load only when the clutch pedal is depressed. Here's more information about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/about_5456365_throwout-bearing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;throwout bearing&lt;/a&gt;. But I don't really believe this is something that would happen regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice is you use whatever style you like better. I don't like having to hold the clutch down, so I often put the transmission in neutral, but recently I've become worried of the battery condition and I have a start/stop car, so I hold the clutch down to prevent the start/stop system from stopping the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T22:47:30.263" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T22:47:30.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23860" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:12:30.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The WSM is useful to a point but note a couple of key facts about them; they are written for the dealer level technician and they are not meant to be complete. So when it says spark leak a trained tech knows to look at the whole ignition system. The diagnostic material is only written to the cover the most common problems. The OEM’s train there techs to call the technical help departments if the answer is not found in the published materials. Unfortunately, I know of no substitute for experience, following formulas and checklists can get one only so far down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my standard approach to this symptom.&#xA;A quick test drive to verify the symptom. A visual inspection of the secondary (high voltage) ignition system; plugs wires, cap rotor, ignition coil. This includes looking for oil leaking on to the ignition wires and spark plugs. Then replace any parts that have obviously failed; followed by another test drive. 90% of the time this solves the misfire. If it is still present an ignition scope is used to identify which cylinder is at fault and if the problem is in the ignition system or elsewhere. If that looks OK then we check compression and fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason weak and leaking spark causes misfire on acceleration is that the mixture goes lean. Fuel is a better conductor of electricity than compressed air so it takes a higher current to initiate the spark across the plug gap. Electricity will always take the path of least resistance. If the insulation is poor it will jump to ground at that spot. One can usually see the arc site because it has carbon tracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:12:30.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23867" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:39:11.900" Score="60" ViewCount="55189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always wondered why heavy vehicles such as large trucks and buses almost always use diesel engines, whereas in light cars there is a choice between diesel and gasoline engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine efficiency might explain the preference towards diesel engines, but then again isn't this a valid consideration also in light cars? You should get better efficiency with a diesel engine, and therefore, all cars should use diesel engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do large vehicles almost always use diesel engines, but light cars have a choice between gasoline and diesel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could modern technology such as hybrid technology with Atkinson cycle bring gasoline engines to large vehicles as well? I have read that the Atkinson cycle engine in 2016 Toyota Prius has 40% thermal efficiency. This is very diesel-like in my opinion and if the technology is scaled up, could help bring gasoline technology to large vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T20:19:10.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T12:32:44.090" Title="Why do heavy vehicles almost always use diesel engines?" Tags="|diesel|gasoline|truck|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23824" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:53:07.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like the starter motor, it possibly just needs some new brushes.  It could also be a fault in the starter solenoid, the large conductors that switch power to the starter could be worn.  I would first try using a length of wire to connect the thin control wire on the solenoid directly to the battery positive to bypass the ignition switch.  If the starter still has the same problem then the fault is not in any of the wiring prior to the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solenoid often has two large connectors, with one thick wire going to the battery and one going to the starter motor.  If you use an old screwdriver or wrench to short these two connections together, then the starter should turn for as long as the connection is made.  If it does, the starter is ok and the solenoid is at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:53:07.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:14:38.620" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is the name of the game. High torque is needed to move heavy loads. If comparing a gasoline engine to a comparable diesel engine the diesel will always have higher torque. The higher torque comes from the need for a higher compressing ratio needed for compression ignition. To achieve the higher compression ratio a longer stroke is required. The longer stroke comes from a greater crankshaft offset. This offset gives greater torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect is that diesels can make tremendous torque at very low RPM. Very simply put more fuel equals more torque when everything else is kept the same. A diesel  does not have throttle plates and draws in the maximum amount of air on every stroke. In a diesel the amount of fuel added is what controls the power. The throttle controls how much fuel is added. This means that a diesel always runs lean. At idle the engine uses hardly any fuel. This lean mixture allows for the addition of large quantities of fuel even at low RPM. A gasoline engine on the other hand always has to keep the fuel mixture at optimal stoichiometric. This need to keep the mixture correct means that to get more fuel the engine needs to rev to higher RPMs. This means that a gasoline engine makes it's torque at much higher RPM than a diesel. This high end torque characteristic makes a gasoline engine hard to drive necessitating constantly keeping the RPM high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real draw back to this torque production is a limited RPM. This is compensated by a gear box with lots and lots of gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a gasoline engine was used it would have to be much larger. The much larger engine would make for greater fuel consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T13:05:15.463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T13:05:15.463" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:55:44.007" Score="7" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why vehicles use fuel? Where does the energy in the fuel go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle fuel efficiency is continuously increasing. Why is this the case? What technologies car manufacturers are using to improve fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somebody claims to have a solution to improve the fuel economy of an existing car, how can I estimate whether the solution really works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T18:55:44.007" Title="Why vehicles use fuel and how can fuel economy be improved?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23868" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:55:44.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicles use fuel because the energy in the fuel goes to these uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air resistance. Because vehicles aren't moving in a vacuum, the air has a resistance force and because force times distance is energy, this uses energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling resistance. Although tires eliminate friction, there is little rolling resistance that converts kinetic energy to heat when moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration. Getting a mass up to speed requires energy. When braking, this energy could in theory be stored somewhere, but in practice this is rare and when done (e.g. in hybrid vehicles), the efficiency is low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uphill resistance. When moving uphill, the car has to overcome gravity. Sure, when moving back downhill, the energy stored in the gravitational field is released, but then it is generally lost to braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine losses. Engines lose energy to the cooling system and to the exhaust system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessory losses. You have electrical loads in the car such as lights. Furthermore, power steering, engine cooling using the water pump and air conditioning use energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to improve vehicle fuel economy is reducing the amount of waste energy going to one of these uses. If somebody claims to have a fuel economy improving solution but fails to tell which category of these it belongs to, it is almost certainly not a genuine solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least these technologies that improve the fuel efficiency of the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass reduction. Lower mass means lower uphill resistance and lower acceleration resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frontal area reduction by making the car e.g. lower. This reduces the air resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better aerodynamics. Having a certain shape for the body reduces air resistance for constant frontal area. Probably the best practical body is the Kammback body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher tyre pressures. Having more pressure means lower rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radial tyres that are used in all vehicles today instead of older bias ply tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine downsizing. This is used often in conjunction with technologies that squeeze more power out of small engines by improving the torque or redline RPM so that acceleration does not suffer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbocharging. Turbocharging recovers some of the energy of the exhaust to compress more air to the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intercooling. This prevents engine knocking problems in turbocharging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust gas recirculation. This reduces throttling losses and heat rejection due to the lower temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher compression ratios. According to basic thermodynamics, compression ratio tells what the maximum theoretical efficiency of an engine is. Unfortunately, high compression ratios can cause knocking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compression ignition, i.e. diesel engines. This allows using very high compression ratios and lean burn and removes throttling losses entirely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrically powered accessories such as power steering, air conditioning and electric water pump. When the accessories are powered electrically, they don't need to spin at a speed proportional to engine speed, and therefore, efficiency is improved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronic fuel injection. By precisely allowing control of the air/fuel ratio, fuel economy is improved. Electronic fuel injection also allows engine braking fuel shut off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lean burn. When using stoichiometric air/fuel-ratio, there is always a minor amount of unburnt fuel. Lean burn eliminates this unburnt fuel almost completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emulated Atkinson cycle. In a conventional Otto cycle engine, during the end of the expansion stroke, the pressure in the cylinder is greater than air pressure, and therefore, when the exhaust valve is opened, some useful energy is lost immediately. Emulated Atkinson cycle uses valve timing that pushes back some air-fuel mixture into the intake manifold at the beginning of the compression stroke. Then the compression ratio is lower than the expansion ratio, and therefore, the cylinder pressure is similar to air pressure when opening the exhaust valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable valve timing. This allows the engine to be optimized for all RPMs instead of only certain RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct injection. This technology allows ultra lean burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common rail injection in diesel engines. The higher pressure allows better fuel atomisation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinder deactivation. Deactivating cylinders means there are less cylinders drawing air through the intake manifold, reducing pumping losses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Offset crankshaft. The forces are the greatest during the expansion stroke and if the crankshaft is not offset, there are lateral forces. An offset crankshaft eliminates these lateral forces and thus reduces friction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower viscosity lubricants. The viscosity of lubricants means the lubricant does not flow freely and therefore requires energy to flow. Having engines that work with lower viscosity lubricants mean that these lubricant flow losses are reduced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased number of gear ratios. This means the engine is more often operating at the optimal RPM, and thus fuel efficiency is improved. This technology can be taken to the extreme with a continuously variable transmission (CVT).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start/stop system. This system stops the engine when standstill, eliminating idling losses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regenerative braking. This kind of system uses a generator that stores energy into a battery as a brake. This is best done in a hybrid car, but also non-hybrid vehicles can have some regenerative braking if the charging system voltage is kept low when cruising and suddenly increased when engine braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locking torque converter. Torque converters have some slip, and therefore, they lose energy as heat. By mechanically locking the torque converter at high speeds, the energy loss is eliminated. This improves efficiency of automatic transmission cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrid technology. This technology uses electricity as another power source. The result is that engine efficiency can be improved by engine downsizing or using Atkinson cycle without reducing acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable valve lift. This reduces pumping losses by using valve lift instead of throttle body to control the air intake into the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multivalve technology. By having more than two valves per cylinder, the combined area of all valves can be improved. This is almost always implemented by a dual overhead camshaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the techniques cannot easily be applied to existing cars, and thus, the best way to improve fuel economy apart from driving economically is to keep it in mind when purchasing the next vehicle. If a fuel economy improving solution is not in this list, it is likely the solution does not really improve fuel economy (although it can be the case that I forgot something important from the list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13825" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T18:55:44.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23870" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relations between heat and other forms of energy (such as mechanical, electrical, or chemical energy), and the relationships between all forms of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7UGY.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7UGY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLH29.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLH29.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjQBd.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjQBd.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Images from NASA fall under free use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23871" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" Score="0" Body="The branch of physical science that deals with heat." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T18:58:02.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9199" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:40:16.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have stored a vehicle for an extended period of time and did not prepare it for storage properly by draining the fuel it seems you should consider doing the following things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain all gas from the entire fuel system&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace fuel filter in the gas tank and if you have one in your fuel line you should change that too&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try and charge your battery, if it's bad, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean batter connection points&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your tires for dry rot.  Probably ok but it's a motorcycle so you should check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test all lights.  Blinkers, tail and brake.  I'm not saying storing the bike would have issues but as my dad said, &quot;always test your safety equipment honey, unless you want to die.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disassemble your carbs and use carb cleaner to clean out the jets and all the passageways inside the carbs.  You can also get a carb parts dip and soak the carbs in it for a few hours.  The old gas can evaporate leaving a thick nasty gunk behind inside of the carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove your fuel pump from the gas tank.  There is a fuel filter in it.  You take the pump out of the housing and clean the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your intake manifolds, rubber, make sure there are no cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change oil and filter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean/replace your air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the pvc valve foam thing in your airbox.  I guess it's a filter for particles but doesn't make sense to me. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs - I would change them but they are probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, put a little oil in your cylinders, it will make sure your rings on the piston are operating nicely against the bore of your cylinder on the first few spins of the engine once it's started.  You can put in gear on a stand and turn it over with the rear wheel by pulling it up.  If I can do it, you can do it.  If it doesn't want to turn.  You might have a problem like rust in the cylinder.  That would be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, change your coolant.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your chain.  Tighten it and lube it with chain lube, not engine oil.  :)   Chain lube is sticky and won't get flung off your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test your brakes but I would suck out all the old brake fluid just because that's how I would do it.  I really don't know if that's the right thing to do but as dad said, &quot;check all your safety equipment unless you want to die.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your ignition switch.  When the bike is running, wiggle the key in there a bunch.  I had a bike that I pulled out of storage and when driving down the road it cut out.  I almost crashed.  There was arcing in it.  I don't know if it was because of moisture from storage but now I ALWAYS wiggle my key around a bit when doing maintenance to make sure I don't lose power once I'm riding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T01:52:36.537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T01:52:36.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23899" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:45:56.700" Score="5" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that is rebuilding an old Triumph.  He is getting ready to lace his rims and has all the parts ready to go.  He has never done it before and lacks knowledge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have watched a few youtube videos on how to do it but none of them really get into what the methodology really is.  They seem to focus on the different patterns and styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that everything we do has a certain way of doing it right.  There are things to look out for and little tricks if you really know how to do it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone share what those tricks might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really know how to do it well, what are the lessons you've learned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the landmines?  How can this get screwed up really bad and how can we avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to take this information and show him up and be there to make it work really nicely and show him a few tricks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:)  Happy New Year and TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T06:25:48.693" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T06:25:48.693" Title="Lacing spoked motorcycle rims" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23879" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:51:42.790" Score="4" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know someone with an older Yamaha XS750.  It's from the late 1970's.  When I rev the engine in neutral it rev's up really slow.  It comes down from the revving a slowly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rev a 2005 GSXR 750 in neutral the rev's skyrocket very quickly and comes back down quickly too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do old motorcycle engines from the past rev so slowly compared to newer motorcycle engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:05:59.140" Title="Why do old motorcycle engines rev so slowly?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:54:29.007" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into a snap-on light, and it features a &quot;lockout mode&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T21:30:21.043" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:30:21.043" Title="Snap on flashlight lockout mode" Tags="|tools|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:07:38.773" Score="7" ViewCount="5445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla and my CV joints were starting to make popping noises.  I replaced both driver and passenger axles.  The car drives fine, but after about 20MPH the brakes make weird noises and stopping the car is not a pleasant experience.  It sounds REALLY bad, but does stop.  I have taken everything back apart and do NOT see any issues with the brake lines or the ABS speed sensor cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what could be the problem, as there are no lights or codes that are on.  I can only assume it is the ABS, but no way to prove or sure why it would be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the DTC's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C1413 Front Speed Sensor RH circuit output&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C1422 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Zero Point High&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13878" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:42:24.787" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T01:02:04.703" Title="I just replaced my CV Axle and the now the brakes are making scary noises" Tags="|toyota|brakes|corolla|abs|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23859" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:25:00.853" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They Exist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find any manufacturers that have rolled out this technology into production vehicles but there are several manufacturers that have the baseline technology in R&amp;amp;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Formula 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formula 1 has always been a playground for engineers and with the new rules implemented in 2012 the current platforms are running this technology and recapturing energy from the turbocharger and storing it chemically in batteries.  The manufacturers doing this include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Renault/Nissan - Nissan is owned by Renault and they are using an ERS (energy recovery system) on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infiniti-redbullracing.com/car/rb11&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RB11.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes - The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mercedesamgf1.com/en/car/pu106a-hybrid/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PU106A&lt;/a&gt; is currently using the technology as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Honda - A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.formula1.com/content/fom-website/en/championship/inside-f1/understanding-f1-racing/Energy_Recovery_Systems.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hybrid platform&lt;/a&gt; as well that recovers heat energy from the turbo to be stored as electrical energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are other manufactures doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it works&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two energy recovery systems.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renaultsportf1.com/In-detail.html?lang=fr&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A kinetic system called the MGU-K which is driven off the crankshaft and a heat recovery system via the turbocharger called the MGU-H.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FI Hybrid Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2dZw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2dZw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MGU-K (Motor Generating Unit Kinetic)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harvests electricity via a generator off the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What you are interested in&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the component that harvests energy from the turbocharger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MGU-H (Motor Generating Unit Heat)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harvest energy from the turbocharger shaft on deceleration and stores it in the battery.  As the turbine is spinning, after it is prespun to act as an ALS (Anti-Lag System) system, it is harvesting energy from the exhaust.  Upon deceleration it continues to act in this manner, harvesting energy as an alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon application of the throttle the polarity of the alternator can be reversed turning it into an electric motor.  When the MGU-H is in this mode of operation it can pre-spin the turbocharger up to 120,000 RPM's to use it as an ARS to spin up the turbo before the vehicle operator applies throttle.  This pre-spinning of the turbo prevents turbo lag and charges the intake tract with compressed air/fuel to provide immediate power once throttle is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formula 1 is well known to be a proving ground for tech.  Devices developed in Formula 1 have been ported to production vehicles for years.  Active suspension, variable valve timing, aero tech, hybrid tech, you name it, it has a good chance of being made better in the Darwinian world of F1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The involved manufacturers are adopting this technology now and it will soon begin to appear in hybrid-turbo 4 cylinders initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:43:26.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23875" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:29:51.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Snap-On flashlights lockout mode is when you hold the on button down for three seconds and turns the flashlight off and it is locked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is feature is to prevent the light from getting turned on if you have it in a carrier that get's banged around.  Your batteries won't get wasted by accidentally turning the light on.  It's a nice feature.  Other manufacturers offer it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:29:51.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23874" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:47:37.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older motorcycle engines have more inertial weight than most newer motorcycle engines.  I will say most because there are incredibly old design methodologies that are still in practice by some manufactures.  These engines retain all of the characteristics from engines that were being produced from the 1920's to the 1970's.  Ural and Harley-Davidson come to mind as stalwarts in technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general there are characteristics that define your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.  Over-square Bore&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many newer MC ICE's have a piston diameter that is bigger than the stroke of the piston.  GSXR, Rotax for Aprilia, Ducati, Yamaha R1, all of the performance 4-stroke single cylinder dirtbikes have this in common.  A short stroke and very big 4 valve combustion chambers.  The short stroke requires less inertia to get the crank to spin back around and complete the combustion process.  The oversquare piston bore allows this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.  Less Inertial Mass&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This maps to above and is a key reason newer MC engines are nice and snappy on the throttle response and rev high quickly.  You can also hear this type of revving with Formula 1 engines pre-2013.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr4zb-HHZs4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a Renault engine in the Lotus playing Happy Birthday.&lt;/a&gt;  Many of the same principles apply to modern F1 engines.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;SHORT STROKE, big piston, big valves, low inertial mass.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Older Engines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XS that you mentioned has a much longer stroke than say a GSXR, CBR or Ducati of the last 20 years.  It's a 3 cylinder with a big flywheel and a counterbalancer system to smooth out the engine vibration due to the long stroke and much bigger crank that is required to accommodate for the longer piston stroke.  Take into account the larger offset journals on the crank, bigger connecting rod,  larger crank counterbalancer, the counterbalance system and you have a lot of weight. Getting that weight to spin up quickly requires a lot of energy and the motor doesn't produce enough to make it nice and snappy in terms of throttle response.  Getting that weight moving is a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_(physics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;work&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell.  Newer MC engines have less inertial mass.  That's the simplest form of an answer I can come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:05:59.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:05:59.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23885" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:06:10.173" Score="3" ViewCount="16892" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I saw a battery explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about 100 feet away and two mechanics were jump starting a Harley Davidson from a truck.  The operator of the truck was revving the engine up and the motorcyclist was trying to start the motorcycle with the starter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This went on and on.  Revving, try and start...wash, rinse, repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually the motorcycle battery exploded.  I understand there is hydrogen gas being emitted and there could have been a spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The incident happened in 1988 to help provide historical context to the level of battery technology for any battery geek reading this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have hydrogen gas as a fuel and possibly spark as a catalyst but what other circumstances would make a battery explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide a conclusion to the story, the motorcyclist ran into the shop and guys starting shooting him with water and throwing baking soda all over him.  He was ok but totally humiliated with acid holes in his jeans and shirt and mumbling about how stupid that was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T15:00:04.233" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T15:00:04.233" Title="Battery Explosion - What are the reasons a battery would explode?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:13:09.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe there was too much heat in the battery and it didn't have a venting system.  I would think that a buildup of pressure from that could cause the batter to explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T22:13:09.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23862" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:16:22.537" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was always taught to put the car in neutral while waiting at lights.  I ruined my throw out bearing by always holding the clutch in.  Apparently it was a very difficult replacement because it was a front wheel drive car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequences I would receive if a family member saw me idling and holding in the clutch were severe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't hold in your clutch at stoplights.  Put it in neutral.  There's no reason to ruin a perfectly good throw out bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T22:16:22.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18303" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:35:19.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the sequence of events and lack of failure codes it is most likely that previously replaced neutral safety switch is either failed or improperly installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd gear only, can be transmission &quot;limp in&quot; mode but that will always have trouble codes set to go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T22:35:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23888" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:46:23.290" Score="4" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a baseline of information regarding camber and toe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I add more or less camber to my wheel unless I'm a NASCAR drivier making only left hand turns and want better traction for that act?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had too much negative camber wouldn't I just wear out the inside of my tire very quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much camber is typically applied to a production vehicle and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under what circumstances would I have toe in or out on my front or rear wheels?  Wouldn't this, as well, increase my tire wear if adjusted to extremely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T23:00:25.880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:56:56.337" Title="Wheel Positioning - Camber and Toe" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23880" CreationDate="2015-12-27T22:55:25.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like this write-up which comes from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://articles.latimes.com/1999/aug/26/news/hw-3902&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LA Times&lt;/a&gt; ... it is a little older, but still applies. It seems &lt;strong&gt;hydrogen gas is the main reason for the season&lt;/strong&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;how the hydrogen occurs&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;how it gets ignited&lt;/em&gt; is of use from the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps to know a little bit about 12-volt lead-acid batteries. They have six two-volt chambers, called cells, that contain a grid of lead plates submerged in sulfuric acid. Electricity is generated when the acid reacts with the lead plates and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One byproduct of the process is gaseous hydrogen, an element so highly flammable that it is used to power rocket engines. &lt;strong&gt;Charging a battery also generates hydrogen. And because heat drives up hydrogen output, you can expect more trouble generally in hot weather&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger is that hydrogen will explode if a spark occurs nearby. &lt;strong&gt;One source of sparks can be the battery itself.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a battery ages, it loses water, leaving the top of the lead plates exposed to the air inside the battery case. Over time, this can lead to warpage of the plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the driver starts the engine, the heavy demand for power can cause these already warped plates to flex, touch and thus spark, says Steve Mazor, head of engineering and safety for the Automobile Club of Southern California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The most common cause of battery explosions upon start-up is dirty battery posts and cables&lt;/strong&gt;, says Sam Memmolo, a master mechanic in Douglasville, Ga., and a nationally recognized automotive repair expert. &lt;strong&gt;The dirt prevents a good connection and allows electrical arcing.&lt;/strong&gt; So it is a good idea to inspect and clean battery posts regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improper jump-starting is another leading cause of explosions.&lt;/strong&gt; The mistake many motorists make is to connect the jumper cables to another car's good battery and then to the dead battery, a practice that causes sparking. Always connect jumper cables to the dead battery first, then to the good battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important safety precaution is to attach the negative jumper cable for the dead battery to an unpainted metal portion of the car frame, rather than to the negative battery post. That allows any sparking to occur far from the battery itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential for battery explosions may be greater than it was 10 years ago. Some newer batteries are sealed, preventing motorists from adding water to keep the electrolyte (the mixture of sulfuric acid and water) above the lead plates. But many manufacturers have gone back to batteries with tops that can be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that new cars have much larger demands for electrical current, so batteries must produce more juice but with the same physical volume. One method used by battery makers to increase current is to space the lead plates closer together, but that only makes it easier for them to short, Mazor says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, &lt;strong&gt;motorists should always exercise caution when the hood is up, avoiding smoking or anything else that can ignite hydrogen&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Highlights are mine in the above column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T22:55:25.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24044" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:16:42.600" Score="5" ViewCount="9173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm probably going to get a stereo head unit for my truck for my upcoming birthday. I'm wondering what I need to do to get it hooked up. My truck has steering wheel controls and the Bose speaker system. I want to retain full functionality of both. My understanding is I'll need separate items to get the head unit hooked up correctly. What do I need besides the head unit to get it installed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I also have satellite radio (Sirius/XM) ... I would be curious about hooking up to the antenna as well (with a satellite capable head unit, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm not asking a purchasing question here, what I'm asking is &lt;strong&gt;what are the names of the parts I'll need&lt;/strong&gt;. Pictures, description, and a how-to about how it's put together would be bonus. This should also be head-unit agnostic as it could work for any Silverado with the same options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle info: 2006 Chevy Silverado 3LT L33 Bose stereo with steering wheel controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UGJ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UGJ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KWRq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KWRq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T01:55:10.777" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T20:33:55.873" Title="What is needed to put a stereo into a Silverado?" Tags="|chevrolet|audio|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:16:42.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given two engines of similar weight, both operated at their respective optimum efficiency (i.e. maximum mechanical work done per unit of chemical enthalpy in the burnt fuel), you will end up with similar fuel consumption for either engine type. But a Diesel engine will generally offer slightly more power out of this, by giving more torque; that's how it's more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, such optimum efficiency is always reached at pretty low RPM. Now, piston engines actually offer most power at &lt;em&gt;high&lt;/em&gt; RPM, albeit at the cost of reduced efficiency. I.e., by shifting down and revving up, you get substantially more power (and need &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more fuel). Now, because Otto engines can be revved higher than Diesel engines (and also tend to respond much faster), they are more suitable for this kind of &amp;ldquo;overclocking&amp;rdquo;, and therefore rather more attractive for sports cars. For trucks, this isn't economic though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will, an Otto engine is a compromise between a Diesel engine (heavy; good efficiency at low RPM; little extra power at high RPM) and a gas turbine (very light; terrible efficiency at low RPM; lots of power at high RPM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13882" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T23:16:42.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23884" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:19:45.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Negative camber contributes to stability. The more negative camber there is, within limits, the less a car will wander at high speed. The downside of too much negative camber is tire wear. In a production vehicle camber is usually between -0.75 to -3 degrees. Just enough to give stability on the highway without too much tire wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe contribute the most to tire wear. The best position for toe is zero to prevent tire wear. This zero toe needs to be maintained during the most common operation of the vehicle or while driving forward under light power. Front wheel drive cars are slightly towed out. What this accomplishes is that when the front wheel apply power the suspension flexes forward the suspension bushings flex the toe tends to zero. Rear wheel drive cars tend to be toed in slightly. This way when the rear wheels apply power the fronts will drag slightly causing the bushings to flex back again reducing the toe to zero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T05:56:56.337" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:56:56.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23890" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:47:50.693" Score="4" ViewCount="2409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I unplugged the ABS fuse from my Toyata Yaris 2006 1.5 Hatchback CE to turn off the ABS system which was giving me trouble when trying to stop on snowy/icy roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car stops much better now, so that problem is fixed.&#xA;However the 50Amp fuse says &lt;code&gt;ABS1/VSC1&lt;/code&gt; and I don't know what the &lt;code&gt;VSC1&lt;/code&gt; stands for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it something important I might miss later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T23:54:02.730" Title="Turning off Toyota Yaris ABS system" Tags="|toyota|abs|yaris|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23889" CreationDate="2015-12-27T23:54:02.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;VSC stands for Vehicle Stability Control. It's the part which works in conjunction with the ABS to keep your vehicle stable during a bad braking situation. It also will help you in corners and such which might be a little too much for your vehicle. You decide whether it's important to you or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T23:54:02.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23892" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:11:31.147" Score="3" ViewCount="2306" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Harley Davidson Ironhead motor (1975 XLCH), how do I adjust the valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember a mechanism in the bottom end but....I can't recall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:58:55.177" Title="Valve Adjustment - 1975 Harley Davidson Ironhead" Tags="|engine|valve|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23891" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:46:58.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine should be cold. You will need to remove the push rod covers. They are easily removed by pushing down on them and pulling them out. If you can't get a good enough grip, use a small screw driver wrapped with a cloth. Be careful that you don't scratch the metal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove your plugs so you can position your engine rotation easily without the compression stroke making things more difficult to find TDC (top dead center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each tappet you adjust, you will need to make sure that it is at it's lowest position. Turn the engine. The valve will be fully opened when the tappet on the other cylinder is at it's highest point. Don't use a pencil to check the piston, you will be opening a can of worms if you drop it inside the cylinder!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intake valves are those nearest to the carburetor, exhaust valves are furthest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bottom tappet adjusting screw locknut, and then loosen then tappet adjusting screw which is touching the pushrod. You should see noticeable vertical play in the pushrod. You can then begin to turn the adjusting screw towards the pushrod until there is no vertical play, the pushrod should turn horizontally with no binding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque the tappet adjusting screw locknut 8-10ft-lbs against the tappet body. Verify that there is no up and down play in the push rod. When you reassemble the covers, make sure that both ends are seated against the cork washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servicing of pushrod adjustment was done at the initial 500 and 1000 mile mark, and then every 2000 miles afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:58:55.177" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:58:55.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T00:57:52.983" Score="2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to replace the starter on my car, and I can't for the life of me reach that top bolt. I removed the bottom one just fine, but I've spent maybe 2 hours trying to find the top one and I just can't. It's totally blind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13528" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T01:25:11.950" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:33:39.660" Title="How do I get to the top bolt on the starter of my 1997 Saturn SL1?" Tags="|starter|saturn|sl1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23893" CreationDate="2015-12-28T01:23:51.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need about an 8&quot; or 10&quot; extension. Use the same 13mm socket as the bottom one. You'll also have to work blind, but it is (I believe) exactly opposite of the bottom one. Put the socket/extension up on the top side of the starter and find the bolt. It shouldn't be too difficult. Also, make sure all of your power is disconnected before you do it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/b0F7-A4J_3s?t=3m42s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video showing you what you need&lt;/a&gt; ... I've queued it up to the spot where he's showing you what you'll need. It appears to be more difficult than it really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzpIp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzpIp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T01:33:39.660" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:33:39.660" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23902" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:26:49.393" Score="6" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in New England, where &quot;Winter Wonderland&quot; often involves large amounts of ice on the road. A number of times I've had to help someone get their car out of a parking spot where their drive wheels were on ice. Often the driver would (foolishly) floor it, spinning the wheels without accomplishing anything, eventually resulting in the smell of burning tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I associate that smell with tires that are overheating due to friction, but there's very little friction when on a block of ice. And, one would think being pressed against ice would be a great way of cooling down the tread. So, what is causing that smell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only guess is that the tire tread flexes rapidly as it comes to and leaves the contact patch, which heats (and eventually overheats) the tire compound. If so, then why don't tires get that hot while rolling on the highway, at highway speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:53:11.930" Title="Motionless car with tire spinning on ice causes burning rubber smell?" Tags="|tires|heat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23873" CreationDate="2015-12-28T03:54:54.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lacing wheels is a lost art in biker culture. Good on you and your buddy for attempting this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Styles vary on manufacturer and hub model. It's best you find your service manual from Triumph for exact specifications. I cannot stress this enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have your spokes installed you will have to true the rim sideways and radially. You can build your wheel stand, just make sure everything is square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most Harley wheels, we divide the spokes into groups of 4 and hand tighten them. You can then place a straight edge hub brake disc flange and one of your markings to measure it. Again, truing varies on the type of wheel you are building so I won't dive too far into Harley specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to tighten things by hand because when you are over your measurement requirements or under, you will find yourself tightening spokes and loosening their opposites at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are starting out, torquing the spokes can be extremely tricky. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; complete your max torque and then move to the next spoke. This will cause many headaches and leave the wheel off balance. You are best to start with 1/4 torques all the way around and build up to the max requirement. Patience is key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't leave any spoke under the torque requirements, they can loosen while on the road and can cause handling issues, split spokes or worse, death. If you over torque them, your hub flanges can be affected or nipples can go through the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:54:54.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-28T04:46:37.767" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To OP’s main question: “Why do heavy vehicles almost always use diesel engines?”&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Answer: Cost and dependability. Diesel engines are significantly more expensive, but have lifetimes many times greater than gasoline engines.  For a commercial vehicle that is on the road all day every day, it adds up to big savings because of the better fuel efficiency and less downtime for repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To the OP’s additional question about light vehicles using diesel:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In the United States, diesel has a very negative consumer image, that it's dirty, loud, slow, etc.  Car companies claim that even if diesel powered consumer vehicles are superior to gasoline, consumers in the US won't buy them.  It's not worth debating the validity of that claim here, but it is worth noting that in other places such as Europe, a large percentage of consumer vehicles are diesel.  So the answer may be more cultural than scientific (whether I mean US consumer culture or Big Three car company culture is open for interpretation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13894" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T04:46:37.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23897" CreationDate="2015-12-28T05:53:11.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice by itself can have a decent amount of friction. The lack of friction is caused by a thin layer of water that develops between the sliding device and the surface of the ice. As the device slides over the ice it melts the top layer and a thin layer of water comes about.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fast moving tire spins the melted water off the ice faster than it than it can be replaced. If you spin it fast enough the ice to tire interface becomes so hot that the water goes directly to steam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of friction varies with temperature of the ice. The colder the ice the higher the friction. Ice does not have one defined coeffient of friction (mu) because it exists in too many forms and temperatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:53:11.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-28T06:03:30.607" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some good and some almost good answers here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel (or any piston) engines - contrary to that claimed above - do not necessarily need a long stroke for high compression; but they often have under square bores and/or strokes that are not short (by typical gasoline engine standards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines - contrary to that claimed above - do have throttle plates; these regulate the incoming air flow - which in turn regulates torque, power, and revs . . etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High compression can be achieved with and without altering the stroke, and this can be done by changing the con-rod length (not the same as stroke) so it places the piston further up the cylinder block and possibly protruding into the combustion chamber, and/or by altering the piston geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greater stroke can and does often lead to a greater instantaneous and composite torque moment at the crankshaft (think leverage with a big wrench; as this [plus more friction] is exactly what you give the BMEP and/or force exerted on the piston produced by each combustion product when it is connected to the crankshaft with a long stroke/&quot;lever&quot;); but - as mentioned - it also increases friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines typically can run an extremely high compression (much higher than typical gasoline engines) due to the fuel they use that - amongst other things - doesn't compression-ignite at compression ratios that would in a typical gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the responses and notes from above say; the name of the game is always Torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And that - plus the ability to produce high torque figures both reliably and (for the work done) economically - is why Diesel engines are made.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HorsePower (a force that is related to objects [a truck] that move in a straight line and/or linear plane) is simply a product of torque (a force associated with objects [a crankshaft] that spin and/or rotate); the amount of torque produced in a given time and/or revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there really are on a few things the powertrain-engineer can do to increase the output of any (diesel/gasoline) piston engine (aside from, increasing fuel burnt and/or swept capacity, increasing static engine capacity, increasing compression, reducing friction/reciprocal weight . .etc), please note that increasing compression is directly related to both increasing efficiency and output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike, say, increasing the static engine capacity; as a 454 cubic inch chev  (&amp;lt;7 litre) is not necessarily more efficient than, say, a modern 3 litre V6 - despite the 454 probably chev probably being more powerful - provided the 3 litre V6 was not turbocharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even then, turbocharge the 454 and you will have prodigious torque and power beyond 1500HP and possibly approaching 2000HP provided all tuning/fuelling is done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Diesel engines are designed to produce significant torque via the above-mentioned design approaches and very high compression/combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of the stroke within a diesel engine has more to do with maximum torque generation (from the combustion product) and/or design - than pure compression; but - as stated above - it can also assist the compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combustion process is a complex one, and this is one place where efficiency, economy, and torque/power can be maximized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why we see modern day gasoline cars - especially the European ones - all coming out with direct injection; like most diesels have had for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this way the combustion process can be better controlled for all conditions and driving &quot;modes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines - unlike most typical gasoline engines, especially those of a decade ago - almost always ensure that they fire precisely at top dead centre (TDC) due to the fact that they rely on compression-ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many typical gasoline engines - some of even today - are without the precision to fire every single combustion cycle right at TDC due to the complexity of an engine and how fast things inside move; and when this fails to happen efficiency and torque soon drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The faster an engine spins the harder it is to ensure that every single combustion cycle fires right at TDC; this is one reason why non-diesel engines these days all have individual coil packs (for each plug) and some form of electronic/computer controlled ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparably, Diesel engines don't need electronic ignition systems at all, and they don't have high crankshaft speeds either (an ocean liner diesel will rarely do more than 250 - 300 rpm, if that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines are also basically built to generate significant torque from very low vehicle/engine speeds, and they also use a fuel that was designed (back when the only gasoline fuel available was leaded) to facilitate a very high compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a fallacy that Diesel engines are way more efficient than typical modern day gasoline engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually - a decade or so ago - it was the diesel engine's ability to provide significant torque from low vehicle/engine speeds, combined with its ability to support high compression ratios, and also the fact that diesel's were turbocharged; that often provided the perceived efficiency and other advantages over the typical gasoline engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days - especially with non-leaded gasoline products that support high compression - typical gasoline engines are not only turbocharged, direct injected and running high compression ratios - but they're also capable of both, greater crankshaft rotational speed bandwidths than diesels and also producing big torque numbers at low crankshaft rotational speeds, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That hits the same target as several of the unique selling propositions that diesels previously offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, the Diesel motor will enjoy popularity for a while longer as Diesel fuel is slightly cheaper than typical gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, diesel engines; (a) are robust, (b) are relatively simple, (c) they usually run at low speeds [and are therefore torque products and &quot;reasonably&quot; economical/cost effective], (d) they don't require sophisticated valve-train and/or ignition system considerations, and, (e) when they're designed to operate in 2-stroke mode they can be implemented to yield greater torque outputs with sometimes equal or less complexity, particularly with respect to valve-train considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I think, the combination of the slow demise of the fossil fuel industry, most first world countries' carbon/pollution policies, and also the rise of hybrid/stand-alone electric motors within passenger vehicles, will probably - unless it significantly evolves - kill the diesel engine off within the next 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13896" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T06:03:30.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18954" CreationDate="2015-12-28T06:43:19.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air in an A/C system is a significant contaminate. It raises pressures and decreases cooling efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;System refill steps:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull vacuum on the system to 29mm/hg for at least 1/2 hour. This low&#xA;pressure and time has two purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removes almost all the air.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;boils out any water that may be in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a leak check; seal the system with a gauge attached for at least&#xA;    5 minutes. The pressure should not drop. If no leaks...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Charge with the precise weight and type of refrigerant specified.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil can be overfilled. Doing so will decrease cooling efficiency. Adding with no loss evident can result in overfilling. Low oil amount will cause compressor damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flushing is a challenging project and only required if the system is contaminated. If the system has been open to air. The receiver/Drier need be replaced. It has a desiccant that absorbs water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:35:37.083" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:35:37.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23919" CreationDate="2015-12-28T06:48:37.290" Score="3" ViewCount="2079" Body="&lt;p&gt;[![Yiben 50cc Carby port identification&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5qm6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5qm6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;I am trying to get this scooter going after sitting in a shed at a nursing home for 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have started by cleaning the fuel tank, installing a new fuel filter, dismantling &amp;amp; cleaning the carby then putting it all back together as I found it, however there are 2 fuel line ports that were not connected to anything. &#xA;The 1st at the top left side of the carby body just on the left side of the automatic choke ( The fuel line is connected to a port to the right of the auto choke)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd at the bottom of the carby beside what I would think is the Drain plug. It appears to be referred to in parts diagrams as a hose overflow but I can’t see what it should be connected to.&#xA;I have searched on line but I must be looking in the wrong places  so I hope someone can help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="13897" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T05:31:15.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T05:31:15.523" Title="Yiben YB50QT 50cc Scooter - Carburetor Component Identification Question" Tags="|carburetor|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-12-28T08:07:16.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have mentioned he's looking at a VF1100 Sabre. I am assuming you are asking about comparing it with a modern sports bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly: The short answer is that a modern 1000cc bike will have significantly better performance than 30 year old 1000cc bike. In fact a modern 600 will probably have better power to weight ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rough comparison a 1980 GS1000 made about 100hp. A modern 1000cc sports bike will make nearly twice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern CBR600 makes about 100hp.   However it's probably about 50kg lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However your post and other people's replies raise a few issues. Yes modern bikes are lighter, faster and more reliable, they also handle better and stop faster. But they're also more expensive and not everyone wants a modern sports bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you should be asking your friend what type of bike he &lt;em&gt;wants&lt;/em&gt; to ride. What does he want to do with it? If that's what he wants.. well that's what he wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A VF1100 was and still is a capable bike. But by today's standards it will be considered heavy, and it's handling and braking will be considered poor. Also as it's now 30 years old it's probably in need of significant maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think: 589lb/100hp+ bike capable of &gt;120mph with soggy suspension and crappy brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other thought is that if your friend hasn't ridden for a long time and his last experience was on a dirt bike he might be in for a nasty surprise. Big heavy 30 year old road bikes don't turn or stop like a dirt bike or sports bike. He'll learn that the hard way the first day he tries riding fast on a windy road or wants to stop in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However... Provided your friend is realistic about this bike, maintains it, and rides it within both his and the bikes limits he'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he really is a novice. There are a lot of other bikes out there that are more learner friendly that will help him gain confidence and proficiency faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T08:53:38.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T08:53:38.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23905" CreationDate="2015-12-28T08:54:05.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be nice to see some pictures of your carb, because each carb is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's usually a drain screw at the bottom of the carb, which allows to drain accumulated water and/or fuel from the floating chamber. There's typically a port for a hose, which just leads to the ground. I.e. this hose is not connected anywhere. If the scooter doesn't start after a long while sitting around, a first try is to completely drain the carb. It will fill up with fresh fuel from the tank, which will burn better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper part of the carb usually has at least two ports: One fuel line and one vacuum line. The fuel line leads directly into the floating chamber. If you disassembled the carb, you may have noticed a small pencil-like stud, which is the valve regulating the fuel level in the chamber. This stud closes the fuel line when the level is high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this valve isn't strong / tight enough to prevent flooding the motor when the scooter is sitting around. Therefore, there is another valve at the bottom of the tank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfkxK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfkxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By applying vacuum to the lower port, the valve opens and fuel flows out of the upper port. This vacuum comes from the intake of the motor, and a port for this can often be found at the carb. This port usually sits in the middle of the &quot;pipe&quot; near the outlet of the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, there are even more hoses. For example, two for carb heating if the scooter is water-cooled or one with small diameter for oil in case of a two-stroke-engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if this doesn't help, please post some pictures, and if you have, drawings!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T08:54:05.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T09:28:56.870" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for way via which i can access my car information when it is running like speed,acceleration,gear information,oil information,etc . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Car details : &#xA;Hyundai Verma : Model 2006 , Manual Transmission , 1.6 petrol . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13900" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T17:25:44.773" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T01:42:42.263" Title="Expose Car Hardware information" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23910" CreationDate="2015-12-28T09:47:46.650" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;When maintaining a constant speed on the highway whether up, down or flat the engine still has the same RPM (assuming the incline is shallow enough not to require a gear change) - common sense would suggest that less fuel should be required to maintain the engine speed on a flat as opposed to an incline. Is there a mechanism in the vehicle that takes care of this, or is that what the driver is doing as they adjust there foot in response to feedback from the speedometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13901" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:15:12.473" Title="What senses/controls how much fuel is spent for a given RPM?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2015-12-28T10:10:09.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have cruise control switched on, then the electronics will monitor the vehicle speed and will adjust the amount of fuel/air into the engine to adjust engine output, in so doing keeping the speed fairly constant.  If cruise control is switched off, then the driver has to do this job manually by slightly altering pressure on the gas pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that less fuel will be required when moving at a constant speed on a level surface than on an positive incline.  When going down a negative incline, engine power may not be required at all and the gas pedal may need to be released to use engine braking to slow the vehicle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T10:17:14.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T10:17:14.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T13:18:27.290" Score="5" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005  Hyundai Elantra. Says its running hot but has coolant and so far hasn't over heated and also can't turn on heat in car because smoke pours from vents into the inside of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13906" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T15:28:02.277" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T15:28:02.277" Title="Saying its running hot but full of coolant and not over heating" Tags="|engine|coolant|hyundai|hvac|elantra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-31T00:33:34.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2015-12-28T14:03:16.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cruise control basically has 2 components.  It watches the vehicle's Speed Distance Sensor (SDS) to determine the vehicle speed.  It then uses a servo connected to the throttle to open/close the throttle.  On older vehicles, it is remotely mounted with its own throttle cable  On newer cars with drive by wire, its the throttle motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you set the speed for your cruise control, it records the average speed from the SDS.  It then sets the throttle to maintain speed.  It will constantly change the throttle setting to attempt to achieve the lowest possible required throttle while still maintaining the same speed.  If it detects the speed has dropped, it will apply more throttle until the vehicle is accelerating.  If it detects the speed has increased it will apply less throttle until the vehicle is decelerating.  Once it has reached its target speed again, it will try to set the lowest possible required throttle again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - the speed is not measure in MPH, it is measured in the 'pulse width' of the amount of time it takes the SDS gear to spin 1 revolution.  This is measured in milliseconds.  Changes in speed that will go unnoticed to the driver can be detected though the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part B:&#xA;As for fuel per RPM...&#xA;There are many things that determine how much fuel is spent at any given RPM.  Engine size, number of valves, size of valves, intake setup, throttle position, air temperature, humidity, etc.  The biggest changing factor on a given engine at a given RPM is the throttle position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensors that determine how much fuel is needed are typically:&#xA;Cam or Crank sensor for RPM&#xA;Manifold Absolute Pressure or Mass Air Flow sensor to determine air/load&#xA;Throttle position sensor - used to give an extra bit of fuel when you snap the throttle.  Usually makes adjustments at WOT.&#xA;Oxygen sensor - makes adjustments based on what the engine puts out&#xA;coolant temperature sensor - riches mixture when cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank/Cam and MAP/MAF are your main 2, the others make fine tuned adjustments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T14:15:12.473" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:15:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T15:09:01.617" Score="1" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, I noticed smoke coming out of the hood so I brought it to a dealer to get it fixed. They said it's the intake or they change the gasket, after they fixed it I drove my car again and after a while it started smoking again. Help me please...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13911" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T01:03:17.137" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T01:03:17.137" Title="2010 Grand Caravan smoke coming from the hood" Tags="|troubleshooting|dodge|grand-caravan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-03T14:59:21.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23839" CreationDate="2015-12-28T15:22:00.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are either leaking it or burning it.  If you are burning it, you should be able to smell coolant in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common places for coolant leaks: Radiator, Hoses, Heater core (and valve), Water pump (bearing, and gasket surfaces), Thermostat (gasket surface), Head Gasket, and the Intake manifold gasket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these will show a leak/wet spot.  The intake manifold gasket can leak into the valley between the cylinder banks.  The head gasket can blow between the cylinder and a coolant port.  This will usually lead to bubbling in the radiator when the engine is running.  You would likely be able to see water on the spark plug after the engine has been sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Radiator pressure tester - pressurize the radiator to ~14psi.  watch and listen for leaks.  The faster it looses pressure, the faster the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compression tester - this will let you know if you have a blown head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T15:28:35.840" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T15:28:35.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-28T15:46:33.443" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;A major, but often overlooked, reason for the dominance of gasoline engines in passenger vehicles is the need for diesel engines in heavy vehicles. &lt;strong&gt;A given quantity of crude oil, depending on its composition, will yield a given quantity of diesel, a given quantity of gasoline, a given quantity of candle wax, and specific given quantities of other petroleum products.&lt;/strong&gt; Therefore, if we fix the amount of any one of these products that we need as constant, then we've also fixed all the other products' quantities as constant as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As vini_i explained in another answer, diesels produce more torque as a byproduct of the engineering decisions in creating a higher compression ratio engine. The heavy vehicles get the diesel-powered torque-producing motors. Let us fix the amount of diesel fuel needed to move a given nation's goods via diesel. Now, we've got a fixed quantity of gasoline that was produced as a byproduct of producing that diesel fuel. It makes much more sense to put gasoline engines in the passenger vehicles which can burn this leftover gasoline, than to put diesel engines in the passenger vehicles which will then compete for the fixed quantity of diesel being produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, neither engine type would be economically well suited for use in all vehicles, regardless of technical considerations. Whenever fuel for one engine type is created, fuel for the other engine type is created as a byproduct and someone will come along with an engine that can burn that byproduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T15:46:33.443" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24077" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:11:34.967" Score="7" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;2011 Mazda6 FWD 2.5L I4 6-speed manual 85,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-6k miles ago (2-3 months) I started to notice a &quot;rustling&quot; sound coming from the front of my drivetrain, but only when in gear above 4,000 RPMs.  The sound comes from directly beneath the center console, if not a little bit forward and under the HVAC controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is generally light--there is no knocking or pinging.  It sounds like paper is being aggressively shuffled, or like shaking a branch with dead leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some observations on this noise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has never occured below 4,000 RPMs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occurs all through powerband above 4,000 RPMs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occurs in any gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occurs only when transmission is in gear and car is at speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When car is at speed, I press in the clutch, press the accelerator to &gt;4,000 RPMs, &lt;strong&gt;no noise&lt;/strong&gt; is made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When car is at speed, I shift to neutral, press the accelerator to &gt;4,000 RPMs, &lt;strong&gt;no noise&lt;/strong&gt; is made&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts what could be causing this unusual noise, that occurs only when the engine/transmission is bearing the load of the automobile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My daily commute is mostly highway, and includes many hills between Vermont and New Hampshire--hence why I encounter &gt;4,000 RPM frequently enough to notice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:35:45.393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T01:23:44.677" Title="Drivetrain sounds like rustling leaves above 4k RPMs" Tags="|noise|mazda|drivetrain|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:13:05.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first step I would take would be to warm your engine up a bit and then to clean it with Gunk or Simple Green and big brush.  Clean everything you can and get ALL of the oil off the bike and the motor.  Once you have scoured it completely, allow it dry.  You can start the bike and heat it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the dry bike on a center stand and allow it run for a bit.  Rev the motor up lightly and ensure you get the motor hot so all of the components properly expand as they would under normal running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small fan and some talcum powder to go around the bike and drop the talcum powder into the fan to get it coat suspected leak points around the bike.  You can use the fan to blow away any excess as well.  The talcum powder will stick to the oil that is leaking.  You can also place a piece of cardboard or newspaper below the bike to detect any oil dripping to find the location of the drip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your done you should have moist oily talcum powder on any oil that has leaked out.  If your unsuccessful in finding any leaks on this run, take the bike for a normal ride for 10 or 15 minutes and when you get back home, repeat the procedure.  The additional oil pressure from riding and having increased RPM's should do the trick to get some of the oil leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this trick is beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:13:05.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23905" CreationDate="2015-12-28T18:17:51.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two hoses in question can be identified by using a can of carburetor cleaner with the red hose attachment and squirting into the nipples for the hoses to see where the fluid emerges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the nipple on the top of the carb by the auto choke could be a vacuum line.  This is frequently where they are placed.  The vacuum line may need to goto a petcock on the gas tank if you have a gravity feed fuel mechanism and no fuel pump.  This is a guess as you have not posted your make/model/year of the scooter.  If you squirt some carb cleaner into that, and I am correct, you will see fluid (carb cleaner) emerge from the head side of the carb between the venturi opening and the throttle body.  That's the location for vacuum to be created in the carb.  If it does not emerge from that location, please post as a note with additional info and I will edit this post to reflect the correct info.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hose on the float bowl is a float drain tube.  You can attach a hose to that and route it with any other lines from your fuel tank that emerge at the bottom of the scooter.  It does not attach to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T18:17:51.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16699" CreationDate="2015-12-28T18:59:20.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl069h.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD1 326&lt;/a&gt; indicates that the EGR pressure sensor is reading pressure values that are out of the range deemed to be normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the results of your pre/post-cat temperature test, this is strong evidence that the catalytic converter is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution would be to replace the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T18:59:20.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2015-12-28T19:11:32.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Necessarily an Issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a guarantee that there is a problem with your charging system if the rectifier on your 1999 Suzuki GSXR keeps burning out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suzuki Rectifiers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your era of Suzuki is unfortunately notorious for burned out rectifiers and stators.  Whomever they were sourcing them through had a huge quality control issue.  The TLR and TLS of that era had the same issue as did many other models.  Essentially, the charging systems were junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are special wires and insulated a bit more, these are one of the few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke in-take.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then it's shot.  If you have infinite in both directions, then it's shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not buy a Suzuki rectifier.  I have purchased my replacement rectifiers off Ebay fro the last six or seven years and haven't had an issue with any of them.  I've purchased them all from domestic suppliers that make them for a plethora of motorcycles, ATV's and dirtbikes.  You will find them by searching.  I have only purchased domestic.  These rectifiers have not given me a bit of issue.  I have one on my son's track bike (2005 GSXR 600) since 2008 and that thing get's beat hard in the summer from 7000 RPM to redline over and over all day.  The cost is about 20% cheaper than OEM from Suzuki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T23:18:39.870" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T23:18:39.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2015-12-28T19:22:49.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Necessarily an Issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a guarantee that there is a problem with your charging system if the rectifier on your 1999 Suzuki GSXR keeps burning out.  Splashing through water is very unlikely to have been the root cause of the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suzuki Rectifiers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your era of Suzuki is unfortunately notorious for burned out rectifiers and stators.  Whomever they were sourcing them through had a huge quality control issue.  The TLR and TLS of that era had the same issue as did many other models.  Essentially, the charging systems were junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are special wires and insulated a bit more, these are one of the few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke in-take.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then it's shot.  If you have infinite in both directions, then it's shot.  Throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not buy a Suzuki rectifier.  I have purchased my replacement rectifiers off Ebay fro the last six or seven years and haven't had an issue with any of them.  I've purchased them all from domestic suppliers that make them for a plethora of motorcycles, ATV's and dirtbikes.  You will find them by searching.  I have only purchased domestic.  These rectifiers have not given me a bit of issue.  I have one on my son's track bike (2005 GSXR 600) since 2008 and that thing get's beat hard in the summer from 7000 RPM to redline over and over all day.  The cost is about 20% cheaper than OEM from Suzuki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T21:57:13.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:57:13.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19319" CreationDate="2015-12-28T19:41:30.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In itself for the short term I would say that there are no health risks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over an extended period of time there will be a buildup of organic material within the ventilation system, along with moisture and naturally occurring bacteria you could get a foul odor from your ventilation system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, if your immune system is compromised &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nocardia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nocardia&lt;/a&gt; bacteria can grow in the HVAC and possibly give you ill-effects regarding health in young children, the elderly and those in poor health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace the cabin filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T19:41:30.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23928" CreationDate="2015-12-28T19:52:47.567" Score="13" ViewCount="35403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra. The following happened twice within a few days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I stopped at a red light. When the light turned green, pressing the gas pedal had no effect at all. However, the car would still move forward at idling speed while in drive (about 3-4 km/h), regardless of the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I put the car in neutral and pressed the gas pedal, the engine would rev normally. Putting it back in first, second or drive would again make the gas pedal non-functional. I can floor it with no effect, as if the pedal was disconnected. I think I was hearing a whine with a pitch proportional to the depth of the pedal, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first occurrence was at the end of a 30 minute drive. I drove like this for several minutes (I was close to my destination), at which point the problem disappeared: I pressed the gas pedal and the engine responded normally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second occurrence was two or three minutes after starting a drive. I pulled over and put the car in park. A few seconds later, the airbag light came on, followed by the engine oil light. Both flickered wildly for a while, after which the engine stalled. I attempted to restart it several times, but it behaved as if the battery was dead: it would turn once or twice without starting, then eventually just a clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, I left the car there overnight and called a tow truck the next day. While waiting for the towing I started the car several times without problems and was able to drive it successfully in a parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then put it in park, turned on the lights, heating and radio (anything that used electricity), waited a minute, turned off the engine and unsuccessfully attempted to restart it. It had the same symptoms as before: a few turns without starting, then clicking sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tow truck guy checked a few things before towing the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He jump started the car successfully. While in park, the gas pedal would behave normally and rev up the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He unhooked the jump starter while the engine was running. At that point, the RPM needle on the dashboard went down to 0 even though the engine still seemed to be running (albeit very slowly, but without stalling). The gas pedal became non-functional.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He measured a relatively stable ~7.10 volts on the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He hooked back the jump starter and the RPM and gas pedal went back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion was a bad alternator, which was changed this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can all of these symptoms be explained by a bad alternator? Is there something else I need to check or have replaced?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13922" LastEditorUserId="13922" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T06:01:30.680" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T22:45:16.040" Title="Non-functional gas pedal, engine stalling, dead battery: broken alternator?" Tags="|battery|alternator|stall|sentra|pedals|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5856" CreationDate="2015-12-28T20:29:15.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's not a fuel injection problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see this issue as a fuel injection problem, I see it as an ignition problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You have two coils in your car.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  One for 1 and 4 and one for 2 and 3.  It's setup is similar to a motorcycle with a 4 cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you have one of the coils go out you lose spark on two cylinders.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T06:14:57.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T06:14:57.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:03:26.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon the information you have provided I see no indication that the rings are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You aren't burning any oil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do not have oily carbon buildup on your spark plugs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad rings will almost always give you those two symptoms, if they aren't sealing well against the cylinder walls you burn oil.  That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point of interest is that you have a shim and bucket valve train.  More on that later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an image of a shim and bucket valve train.  Notice that there are no rocker arms or push rods.  The cam acts directly on the bucket and shim which acts directly on the valve stem.  You adjust the valves by changing out different shims to get the appropriate valve clearence.  In this image, the shim is below the bucket.  This is what the CBR has.  It's called an Under the Bucket Shim.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xkkbx.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xkkbx.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Errata&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other posters have told you to buy new pistons and rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy new rings, you will need to have a new nikasil coating put on all of your cylinders.  No shops that I have ever encountered offer this as a service.  You have to have them either ship it out their provider or you find one and send it off to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bore your cylinders and put the 1st step overbore into the bike you may as well send it out to a place that does the nikasil.  If you skip the nikasil, the rings will quickly wear out and you will have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link explaining the virtues of nikasil.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, since none of this really applies, let's move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though your compression went up with the oil in the cylinder that is not proof that the rings are bad.  It just seals them up a bit better from normal compression loss and helps to increase the compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you are experiencing is out of adjustment valves.  The symptoms are these depending on the severity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard starting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rough idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor low RPM response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power loss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is counter-intuitive.  You are looking for no valve clearance as opposed to too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shim and bucket setup will lead to zero clearance situations where the valve can actually hang open and there is a tiny gap between the valve seat and valve face in the head. When this condition arises the vehicle is hard starting, poor idling and general runs like a bag of hammers. One valve hanging open can lead to a very poor running/idling condition that improves with higher RPM. Running a compression test can give you breadcrumbs and hints but a leak down test will truly determine if this condition is occurring. It's a very common issue and is considered general maintenance to adjust your valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens as the valves get super hot and get beat in and then the engine cools, the valve shortens.  So you get into a situation where the condition can get worse when the engine heats up and the valve doesn't make contact with face.  It will actually hang open just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the mechanical beating of the valve face against the valve seat, you get a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is adjust the valves.  You remove the cams after measuring everything out with a feeler gauge and documenting it and then subtract the value you need to get valve clearance and goto the Honda shop and order up some shims.  Be sure you put the shims in a cupcake backing pan or ice tray, something where you can keep track of where they go, exhaust cylinder 3 etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T01:55:07.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23925" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:05:02.390" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;An insufficiently-charged battery would explain what you're seeing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the unresponsive throttle is because the throttle is electronically-actuated (at least that's what eBay &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/Throttle-Body-/33558/i.html?mvsub=1&amp;amp;_mcatda=true&amp;amp;Brand=Nissan&amp;amp;selfil=2%2C3%2C1&amp;amp;selvel=Nissan%7ESentra%7E2005%7E-%7E-&amp;amp;MMake=Nissan&amp;amp;MModel=Sentra&amp;amp;MYear=2005&quot;&gt;reckons&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the Sentra, but airbag and engine oil lights can turn on due to insufficient voltage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the engine will stall because the fuel injectors need electricity to correctly meter the fuel into the engine. Insufficient voltage will leave the engine starved for fuel, reducing engine speed to the point of stalling&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things to check&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator may be bad, but there could be other culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;battery condition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention if the battery was load-tested. Make sure that this is not an issue (I highly doubt it is but am mentioning this for sake of completeness)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;high electrical resistance in battery-charging cable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out especially for things like corrosion around the battery terminals which can prevent the battery from being charged by the alternator&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T21:10:56.203" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:10:56.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:13:09.780" Score="6" ViewCount="3196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had an engine swap done and will pick it up soon. Mechanic swapped in a 6 puck competition clutch as well. Combined with a very light flywheel(same weight as I'm used to driving, 8 lb), it's well known on my car (Honda S2000) to be difficult to engage 1st gear, needs to be released slower, and generally requires more precision to make shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does this phrase mean in terms of adjusting my driving style on manuals? Obviously the flywheel being lighter means faster revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13689" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:24:18.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:24:18.120" Title="What does &quot;clutch grabs hard&quot; mean?" Tags="|honda|clutch|manual-transmission|s2000|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23929" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:34:21.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This style of clutch is harder to 'ride.'  You will have a harder time finding that sweet spot.  Combined with the lightweight flywheel, it will be rather difficult to take off.  You might run into situations where its stall or spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your moving, it should be the same.  You might want to get a short throw to take full advantage of the lightweight flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is not s2000 specific.  I had a dodge spirit (FWD) with a v6, lightweight flywheel, and a Kevlar clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:34:21.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16512" CreationDate="2015-12-28T21:52:00.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you synchronize and clean the carburetors the bike will not have the same power that it did before you removed the baffles from the exhaust system.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baffles created back pressure in your exhaust system that restricted the flow of the exhaust gasses.  When you removed the baffles it allowed the engine to 'breath' easier due to the lack of restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Restriction in exhaust systems are designed for several things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to restrict gasses flowing into and out of the engine.  This means that you can  use less fuel to operate the vehicle and allows the manufacturer to advertise a better fuel economy for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Better for the environment.  In order to meet EPA regulations and such.  Restricted exhausts allow for less exhaust gasses and....better for the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Better bottom end power.  At the lower end of your RPM range you will have more power which makes the vehicle more user friendly driving in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free flowing exhaust allows more gasses to pass through the engine and thereby requires more fuel to enter the engine to be burned.  The condition you are experiencing is a lean condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drill out the air screws at the tops of your carburator CV cover closest to the head.  They are aluminum.  Be careful, your drill bit will go right through them and the aluminum plug over the air screws might just come off in the bit.  That's ok, just don't penetrate to deep, you will hit a brass air screw if you do and drive it into your carburetor breaking off the the pin at the end of it.  Once you have access after removing the aluminum plug blow out the aluminum shavings.  Turn the air screw down all the way and turn it out 1.5 times as a starting point.  Turning it out makes the pilot/idle circuit operate leaner, more  air for more turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may resolve your issue but probably not.  It will make your lower RPM's richer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For higher RPM you will need to order the next size up main jet and a jet needle that has notches at the top.  The jet needle goes into your throttle.  The jet needle rests at the bottom of your CV piston valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will raise and lower the needle by changing the clip position on the jet needle.  If you want to make it richer, drop the clip to a lower notch. If you want to make the engine run leaner, raise the clip to another slot to drop the needle down lower into the main jet stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure will allow you to tune the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K&amp;amp;N makes a jetting kit for your bike.  Jet kits are typically applied to carbs after a free flowing aftermarket pipe is installed to richen the system.  In your case, it's just a modified stock turned into a free flowing system.  It should work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CV Carburetor Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3m7e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3m7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notched Jet Needle Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWMOo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWMOo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T16:14:56.067" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:14:56.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:03:17.160" Score="6" ViewCount="3873" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery light keeps coming on and off and power steering feels like it is going out. New battery a year ago, new alternator a year ago. Replaced the accessory belt a week ago as well as the accessory belt tensioner. Light still comes off and on and power steering feels like it is going out once in a while after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13678" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T00:02:15.267" Title="2003 honda accord battery light" Tags="|honda|battery|accord|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:20:28.177" Score="12" ViewCount="2905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Virtually every modern passenger vehicle today utilizes lambda sensors from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How critical are they to a vehicle's operation? How do they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T19:47:46.217" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T19:47:46.217" Title="How do lambda sensors work?" Tags="|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23933" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:20:28.177" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lambda sensors, often referred to as &lt;em&gt;oxygen sensors&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;O2 sensors&lt;/em&gt;, are the bedrock of any modern-day EFI system. Without them, fuel injection management is essentially flying blind and has to resort to other less-desirable means to determine how much air and fuel need to be mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their primary role is to provide feedback to the fuel management to determine if the air-fuel mixture being fed into the engine is being mixed in the right ratio. They do so by measuring &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio#Air.E2.80.93fuel_equivalence_ratio_.28.CE.BB.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;lambda&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, the ratio of actual AFR to stoich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two lambda sensors sandwiching a catalytic converter can also be used to assess if the cat is running properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lambda sensor types &amp;amp; Operation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lambda sensors work at elevated temperatures, around 300 °C (600 °F); many lambda sensors contain a resistive heater element to help get them up to temperature quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Narrowband&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &lt;em&gt;qualitatively&lt;/em&gt; detect whether the exhaust gases are rich or lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most prevalent type of sensor is the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;zirconia-based&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; narrowband, which generates its own voltage as signal output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;useful voltage range 0.1 - 0.9 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stoichiometric AFR at 0.45 V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;low voltage = lean condition, high voltage = rich condition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5Jdi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5Jdi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Narrowband Voltage Graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rarer &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;titania-based&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; variant does not generate its own voltage, but changes electrical resistance based on the oxygen concentration detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;low resistance = rich condition, high resistance = lean condition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wideband&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &lt;em&gt;quantitatively&lt;/em&gt; measure lambda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes in AFR translate to changes in current output, which is then converted to a corresponding voltage. The voltage range may vary between car manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;low current = rich condition, high current = lean condition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ru5A.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ru5A.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wideband Sensor Graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Impact on fuel management&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram below nicely summarizes the impact of lambda sensors on fuel injection management:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lambda sensor senses leaner-than-desired exhaust → increase injector pulsewidth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lambda sensor senses richer-than-desired exhaust → decrease injector pulsewidth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdbUT.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdbUT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Lambda Impact on Fuel Management&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T22:20:28.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23925" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:51:10.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Zaids answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap meter from RadioShack will tell you if something is wrong with your power system. A normal car battery will be at 14.4 volts (+-.75v) when on.&#xA;7.10V is not normal and indicates a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your gas petal, not accelerating is a necessary safety feature implemented by all manufactures that use digital throttles. Whenever the car throws a bad code (at least one that will affect driving) it locks the throttle to idle (or a max of about 10mph). FYI a code is an error thrown by some part of the car on the CAN bus that the computer communicates with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad alternator could explain most of this. If the alternator doesn't fix all of the major problems take it to a mechanic so he can hook up a computer and see the codes the car is throwing that will give you the best explanation as the why these errors have occurred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the spark plugs will run out of energy before the injectors. I believe the fuel pump will also stop before the spark plugs as it requires constant current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12813" LastEditorUserId="12813" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T22:56:40.233" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T22:56:40.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23944" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:11:38.360" Score="7" ViewCount="55152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with a continuously variable transmission with ~40k miles on it.  About two months ago I blew out the front right tire and took it to a tire shop.  The folks at the tire shop said the tire wasn't repairable and that I had to replace two tires.  The put the new tires on the back and moved the undamaged, but worn tires on the front.  I can't remember if the worn tires were 60% worn or 40% worn, but they were the stock tires that I bought the car with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a month ago (and maybe 2k miles after replacing the tires) I started hearing a humming/clicking noise from the car (though no indicator lights went off).  I took it to a shop and they told me that the noise was coming from the transmission and that I had to take it to the dealership.  The dealer told me that the transmission was shot due to the diameter difference between the worn front tires and the new rear tires.  Apparently the front tires are 4/32 thread and the rear are 10/32.  The dealer claims that the warranty (which covers the powertrain to 60k miles) is void because the tread difference was responsible for the error.  According to the dealer any tire shop should have seen the difference in tread and either changed all 4 tires or shaved the new tires down.  The dealership wants ~$10k to replace the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about this stuff and have spent several hours reading through conflicting information trying to figure out whether the tread difference could shoot the transmission.  Based on some similar questions on this forum it sounds like the differential might be damaged as a result of something like this, but I have yet to see anything definitive about the transmission.  Assuming that the tread difference was indeed responsible for the transmission damage (and assuming that the transmission is really totally damaged) is it reasonable to ask the tire shop to help pay the 10k? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13927" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:37:55.297" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T09:37:53.883" Title="Transmission damage due to uneven tread wear on AWD vehicle" Tags="|tires|transmission|subaru|awd|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="732" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:54:53.367" Score="37" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Lean and Rich Symptoms in Motorcycle Carburetors&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your post you indicate that some of the symptoms you have read are contradictory.  I will try and clarify between the two conditions and attempt to give you guidelines in troubleshooting between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle carbs have a few circuits that effect different throttle positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Idle Circuit - for idle and off idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pilot Circuit - small effect on idle. Higher effect at lower RPM's with decreasing effect to full throttle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Needle jet/jet needle - Mid range circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Main Jet - Wide open.  Fuel is metered through the main by the jet needle at different throttle positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choke circuit - Initiated by a valve or butterfly that increases the vacuum and opens the circuit up.  Cold starting and warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Symptoms of Lean and Rich&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some basic symptoms, some duplicate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lean&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced Power&lt;/strong&gt; - Sluggish at certain RPM's.  Wide open throttle yields no power.  The engine may bog down until you reach a lower RPM and then suddenly power returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Difficulty Starting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark plugs are clean&lt;/strong&gt; - No residue.  Insulator may be white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Runs better at higher altitudes&lt;/strong&gt; - AFR becomes normalized due to reduced atmospheric pressure allowing fuel into the venturi easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backfires&lt;/strong&gt; -  Popping on deceleration for a lean idle circuit or backfires in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Runs on choke&lt;/strong&gt; - The vehicle may run on choke when it's warm but stalls if the choke is turned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Idles poorly&lt;/strong&gt; - Fluctuations in idle RPM, stalling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine runs hot&lt;/strong&gt; - Due to more oxygen than fuel combustion temperatures are hotter reflecting on a temp gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hanging idle&lt;/strong&gt; - The engine idles high and then drops and stalls.  Typically a lean condition caused by an air leak between the butterfly and the head or a vacuum line that is not attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharp Odor&lt;/strong&gt; - The exhaust smell may be sharp and burn your nose.  This is NOx or Nitrogen Oxide.  It's created by high temperatures in the combustion process between nitrogen and oxygen.  Although NOx is present in all exhaust it can be more pronounced in higher combustion temperatures associated with lean conditions with more oxygen.  More oxygen=higher burn temp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rich&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced Power&lt;/strong&gt; - It has less power but seems to be OK and runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced Fuel Mileage&lt;/strong&gt; - Your using more fuel per cycle so your mileage becomes worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rough Idle&lt;/strong&gt; - Combustion takes a just a bit longer with more fuel and at lower RPM's the engine can idle rough.  Unlike a miss-fire on a spark plug this idle seems fine if the idle is turned up just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark Plugs Black&lt;/strong&gt; - Carbon buildup on insulator and electrodes of plug.  Wipes off your finger as sooty and back.  Carbon is a conductor of electricity and getting considerable carbon buildup from a rich condition with ground the inner electrode down the positive insulator.  When this condition occurs there will be no spark.  You can clean the sparkplug with carburetor cleaner and re-use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust Exit is Black and Sooty&lt;/strong&gt; - Excessive carbon buildup in the exhaust is thick and overly grimy.  A properly jetted carburetor will leave a nice grey scale color in the end of the exhaust pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odor of unburned fuel&lt;/strong&gt; - In cases of a very, very rich mixture you may smell some unburned fuel coming out of your exhaust.  This could be due to a grounded out sparkplug from too much carbon buildup preventing the combustion process in a cylinder or so much fuel that combustion is not occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Runs better with more air&lt;/strong&gt; - If you remove your air filter and the engine begins to run a bit better with more oxygen in the mix it is likely you have a rich condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Runs worse at altitude&lt;/strong&gt; - If the bike starts to run worse at higher altitude with reduced oxygen, it's likely a rich condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black Smoke&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have black exhaust when you rev it, it's rich.  You can get a light colored rag and place it over the exhaust lightly and rev it to see if you get carbon/black residue on the rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Troubleshooting Lean Conditions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There a few common issues that pop up with motorcycles that have carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Rubber Intake Manifolds&lt;/strong&gt;  - Most modern motorcycles (Mid 1970's on) have rubber manifolds attached to the cylinder head.  The carburetors fit into these manifolds and are clamped.  Over time they become hard, brittle and cracked and suffer from dry rot due to excessive heat at an accelerated rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cracking&lt;/strong&gt; can create air leaks which create lean conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poor assembly&lt;/strong&gt; accounts for another large portion of air leak created issues.  Make sure the carbs are seated in the manifolds properly.  When inserting a bank of 4 carbs into a 4 cylinder it can be very difficult to get them to seat right.  Use a bit of oil in the inside diameter of the manifold to help them slip in easier.  Tight the outer two clamps initially in stages before starting on 2 and 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vacuum Lines Not Attached&lt;/strong&gt;  is very common.  Leaving a petcock vacuum line off can create a lean condition on 1 cylinder but normal on the rest. You can get odd idle symptoms and a lazy idle condition where the engine RPM's drop slowly and it 'hangs'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test for air leaks by running the motorcycle and squirting carb cleaner at suspected cracks.  The idle will reduce a bit if you hit a winner.  As well, you smell a sharp odor from the exhaust as it is pulled through the motor and undergoes combustion.  Don't breath much of that in and use fans while doing this.  If you don't feel comfortable with carb cleaner you can use an oily thicker spray like WD40 that will clog the crack better temporarily and reduce the idle.  I'm typically looking for the odor though, it's sharp and pronounced and unmistakable as opposed to, &amp;quot;did that idle just drop a bit, let's do it again...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmsE3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmsE3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sparkplugs&lt;/strong&gt; Give you great breadcrumbs at to what is happening inside the combustion chamber.  Lean conditions can create pre-ignition that melts electrodes or leaves the electrodes in a dusty white condition or simply white with no deposits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsJnd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsJnd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Common Rich Condition Causes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rich conditions are considerably less frequent than lean.  Much of the issues lay in the fact the people are typically creating lean conditions upon reassembly of carburetors.  Rich conditions can be created by people too but the condition is usually caused by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing a jet&lt;/strong&gt; that is too large&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setting a float&lt;/strong&gt; level that is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Choke&lt;/strong&gt; that is stuck or not turned off.  Ensuring proper cable routing so that you can turn the handlebars all the way to the left and all the way to right without opening the choke when doing so is an essential test after installing the carbs and after reconnecting the choke cable.  Ensure it doesn't bind up and pull the choke open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A stuck float&lt;/strong&gt; in the float bowl will allow fuel to overfill and then spill out the main jet into the venturi. If you have fuel in your airbox that's a good sign you have a stuck float and bad vacuum petcock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A stuck float with a standard petcock&lt;/strong&gt; can create issues as the fuel will do what is stated above but when the bike is sitting. This fuel can also fill the cylinder and create hydrolock and destroy your engine when you start it.  The piston cannot get to top dead center on the compression stroke and it bends your connecting rod.  This is real.  I've seen the results...AND of course if your petcock is stuck open it's overfilling all of your carbs and creating rich condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sparkplugs Are Your Breadcrumbs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, refer to the sparkplugs.  Look at the chart.  See what you can see.  If you have a multicylinder bike and multiple carburetors you will NEED to check ALL of your plugs.  Each carburetor can have an individual issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Thoughts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In doing two stroke tuning we would change settings, start the bike and run it at a particular throttle position as long as we could safely ride it that way then abruptly cut the ignition and hope we could coast back to where the tools were.  Doing this allowed us to look at the plug at a particular throttle position and adjust accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not put any real information on how to resolve the various conditions and howto set a float consistently or when to use a different size main jet or raising and lowering your jet needle.  The post would just turn into a short novel.  I'm already going to get some deserved tl;dr on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:24:02.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23929" CreationDate="2015-12-29T01:01:59.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the difference between where the clutch grabs and releases. It means that area between the two is very small (relative to clutch pedal travel). You will find there won't be a lot a &lt;em&gt;smooth transition&lt;/em&gt; as you release the pedal. It will just &lt;em&gt;grab&lt;/em&gt;. It will take some muscle memory recalibration to find the feathering point of your clutch consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to remember with a new clutch and flywheel ... it needs to be broke in. Usually this takes about a 1000 miles. You don't want to overheat it during this time (no rodding your little S2000). If you do, you'll find you'll end up with a lot of chidder (vibration as you engage your clutch), which will make it doubly hard to engage your clutch. Be easy on your clutch during the break-in period. City driving is better for the break-in period, as highway driving won't get the wear on it you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T01:01:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23951" CreationDate="2015-12-29T01:45:33.300" Score="10" ViewCount="3187" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems in the world on mini's as in Mini Cooper, there is a camshaft called a scatter cam.  It changes the timing for cylinders 2 and 3.  I've heard of changing the timing to have 1 and 4 firing at the same time as well as 2 and 3 on 4-cylinder motorcycles but never changing just 1 and 4 or just 2 and 3.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem that changing the way timing works on just two cylinders would have much benefit but I'm probably not looking at it right since it seems so many Mini Cooper owners want this done.  So what am I missing here.  Please make me smarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a scatter camshaft?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why would you only change cylinder 2 and 3?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the ultimate benefits to using this type of a camshaft?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why do they call them 'scatter cams'?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA and Cheers!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T20:46:56.657" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T12:25:49.720" Title="Scatter Camshafts - What are they and why do I want one?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-12-29T01:54:46.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is apparently a normal sound. The vacuum pump, according to Toyota, can run at any time. It is required for emission control.  And, depending on various conditions, can be much louder or quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that this pump is a part of&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_air_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Secondary air injection&quot;&gt;secondary air injection&lt;/a&gt;. The injected air location varies with the engine temperature, according to the link above. So, outside temperature could affect operation (and noise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13802" LastEditorUserId="13802" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T03:55:07.120" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T03:55:07.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23949" CreationDate="2015-12-29T02:13:25.133" Score="8" ViewCount="15303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been going to a lot of muscle car websites the last few days and have seen quite a few recommendations to switch over a brake system from DOT4 to DOT5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work that's required seems to revolve around various seals and rubber components within the braking system.  It seems it is quite involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to change over to DOT5 if that much work is involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the benefits that huge where I would be motivated to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the applications and benefits to DOT5 brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally I have seen references to DOT5.1?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand the foundation of the fluid has a different chemical  composition than the other, hence the seal changes but at the end of the day it seems the benefits would have to be quite extreme in order to be motivated to do the conversion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T21:04:42.110" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T15:41:55.047" Title="What is the difference between DOT4 and DOT5 brake fluid?" Tags="|brake-fluid|dot4|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23941" CreationDate="2015-12-29T02:48:14.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage to DOT5 brake fluid is that it is hydrophobic meaning it doesn't like water. This is in contrast to DOT 3, 4, 5.1 which are hygroscopic which means it will absorb water even just out of the air. This is a huge advantage if storing the car for most of the year and only breaking it out a few times during the summer. If using any other fluid periodic flushes would be required to keep the fluid moisture free and the brake system rust free. DOT5 also does not damage paint if spilled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT5.1 brake fluid uses the same basic chemicals as DOT 3 and 4 but has a higher boiling point. Until DOT5.1, DOT5 had the highest boiling point of the different brake fluids. It was common to see DOT5 used in high performance applications such as racing. DOT5.1 and DOT5 have the same boiling point so now in a high performance application DOT5.1 can be used with normal brake components without worrying about the seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T03:31:09.363" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T03:31:09.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23865" CreationDate="2015-12-29T03:05:46.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another consideration, in the United Kingdom at least, is that you can buy &quot;red diesel&quot; (diesel fuel, dyed red) for use in agricultural use, stationary generators etcetera with far less tax. Currently diesel here is around £1.10 per litre (local garage, rode past earlier) whereas the last time I bought red diesel it was around £0.60 per litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if this sort of thing occurs in other countries but given the similarity in diesel/petrol (gasoline) performance this significant reduction in fuel costs means that diesel is the fuel of choice for tractors and agricultural machinery or any engine that doesn't drive the wheels of road-going vehicle, such as refrigeration systems and generators etcetera. If a similar thing occurs in other countries this is no doubt one reason that diesel engines dominate these industries. You would not be able to make a petrol engine that would use sufficiently less fuel over its lifetime to recoup such a fuel cost differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know but I would venture to suggest that such a situation arose years ago when petrol engines simply couldn't produce the required torque or reliability at the required conditions so diesel was the preferred option. Legislation on fuel tax for different uses will not keep up with modern rates of development by private companies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, the red diesel argument doesn't cut it with road going vehicles, but when you consider the load pulled in a 40' trailer is comparable to that of a tractor and trailer in a field it is easier for engine manufacturers to make two similar engines tailored to the market. I don't know anywhere near enough about who owns who when it comes to diesel engine manufacturers over the past fifty years but it is at least some food for doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if everyone used diesel, the police would have to check every vehicle for red diesel in the fuel tank, rather than the small percentage that could feasibly use it today. This would costs governments and oil companies many millions in lost revenue, which would be unthinkable of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13930" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T03:05:46.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23936" CreationDate="2015-12-29T05:27:57.110" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They likely do hold some liability, since they should have known that an AWD should have matching tire diameters across all tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may argue that you hold some responsibility since the Impreza owners manual makes this pretty clear: . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must install&#xA;  four tires that are of the same size, circumference, construction,&#xA;  manufacturer, brand (tread pattern), degree of wear, speed symbol and&#xA;  load index. Mixing tires of different types, sizes or degrees of wear&#xA;  can result in damage to the vehicle’s power train. Use of different&#xA;  types or sizes of tires can also dangerously reduce controllability&#xA;  and braking performance and can lead to an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems to be well known in the tire industry that AWD's  need matching tires, and that Subaru's tolerances are particularly tight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.souzastireservice.com/tires-101/tire-matching-awd-4wd.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.souzastireservice.com/tires-101/tire-matching-awd-4wd.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Subarus have, to our knowledge, the tightest tolerance of any AWD&#xA;  system. Since we see so many, we can tell you what the tolerance is.&#xA;  It can be stated in two ways: The first is 2/32nds tread depth across&#xA;  all four tires. The problem with this is that actual tire dimensions&#xA;  can vary from brand to brand and even from model to model.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You&#xA;  may ask what the big deal is? Well, on the Subarus, if all four tires&#xA;  aren't matched within 1/4&quot; around the circumference, you will break&#xA;  the transmission, not maybe or sometimes - it definitely happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a tire shop that took responsibility for installing mismatched tires and replaced a customer's differential:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weareaccurateautomotive.com/blog-0/bid/128677/Tires-for-All-Wheel-drive-vehicle-Beware&quot;&gt;http://www.weareaccurateautomotive.com/blog-0/bid/128677/Tires-for-All-Wheel-drive-vehicle-Beware&lt;/a&gt; (in this case it was due to a different tread design)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So to be clear, by replacing the two tires we reduced the circumference differential by .75&quot; and the tread depth by 2/32nds.&#xA;  This is supposed to be good. The speed rating was identical, but the&#xA;  tread design was different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We concluded that the tread design was the culprit. We replaced the&#xA;  transfer case and installed two more tires to match. Car fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's another shop that ended up replacing a transfer case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/19990705/ISSUE/307059999/matching-tires-on-4wds-differences-of-1-4-inche-in-diameter-can&quot;&gt;http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/19990705/ISSUE/307059999/matching-tires-on-4wds-differences-of-1-4-inche-in-diameter-can&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mr. Albert said he asked the customer: ``Why are you coming back to&#xA;  me? I put on the same sized tire that was on the vehicle.'' The&#xA;  customer replied that the auto dealership told him all four tires have&#xA;  to be the same height and should be the same brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mr. Albert said he turned the invoice over to his insurance company&#xA;  which promptly reimbursed the customer and assured him his tire&#xA;  department had done nothing wrong. But from now on, Mr. Albert said,&#xA;  he's going to insist on installing only four identical tires on&#xA;  four-wheel- and all-wheel-drive vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,  I'd definitely approach the shop and ask them to pay. If it's a national shop and the local manager won't accept responsibility, look up their corporate contact information and see if the corporate office will help out. Be civil and professional in your communications. If you have a local news media consumer advocate, get in touch with them since public exposure may prompt the company to do the right thing, likewise, you can try contacting them via social media. If all else fails, contact a lawyer about legal remedies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, $10K sounds expensive for a transmission replacement... I would definitely shop around on this (and maybe go with a rebuilt transmission), especially if you end up paying for it yourself. I would have expected only the transfer case to need replacement, though maybe that's built into the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3038" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T05:27:57.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T06:54:41.597" Score="4" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I push on the gas it hesitates to go. The check engine light starts flashing but once it gets rolling its gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change the spark plugs, put in a gas treatment, shot some B-12 in it and changed the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its still doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you help figure out what the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13935" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T17:24:58.123" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:24:58.123" Title="03 chevy impala- I have a bad misfire" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|ignition|misfire|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13408" CreationDate="2015-12-29T13:01:00.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this information on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/109652-step-step-how-program-key-fob-new-existing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota forum&lt;/a&gt;. It is from Toyota TSB dated November 9, 2007 (TSB#EL009-07). It works with a lot of different Toyota models for 2007-2008 and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; work for yours as well&lt;/strong&gt;. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; If it doesn't work, &lt;em&gt;let me know&lt;/em&gt; and I'll delete this answer). It appears fairly complicated and time critical (time during/between steps needs to be done accurately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin With:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driver's door open and unlocked &amp;amp; key out of ignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close and open the driver's door TWICE.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the key into the ignition and remove it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Steps 4-6 should be performed within 40 seconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close and open the driver's door TWICE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the key into the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the door&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the ignition switch from &quot;LOCK&quot; to &quot;ON&quot; and back to &quot;LOCK&quot; at about 1 second intervals to select the desired mode from the list below:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;    1 time for ADD mode&#xA;    2 times for REWRITE mode&#xA;    3 times for CONFIRMATION mode&#xA;    5 times for PROHIBITION mode&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;8&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the key from the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle &quot;lock&quot; to &quot;unlock&quot; a number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; If CONFIRMATION or PROHIBITION modes have been selected, opening the door will complete the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;10&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For ADD or REWRITE modes, do the following within 40 seconds of Door Lock confirmation:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A -&lt;/strong&gt; Press both transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously between 1 and 1.5 seconds and release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B -&lt;/strong&gt; Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter LOCK button from more than 1 second and release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will cycle &quot;lock&quot; to &quot;unlock&quot; once at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are problems with the transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C -&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;11&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open to driver's door to conclude programming mode&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you make an error during the programming mode, turn the ignition key to &quot;ON&quot; and back to &quot;LOCK&quot; to erase entered steps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure works for the following;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2000 - 2005 Celica&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2001 - 2003 Prius&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2001 - 2005 ECHO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2001 - 2007 Highlander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2001 - 2008 RAV4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2002 - 2006 Camry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2003 - 2008 Avalon, Corolla and Matrix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2004 - 2008 Sienna and Solara&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2005 - 2008 Tacoma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2007 - 2008 FJ Cruiser and Yaris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T13:01:00.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T13:22:22.227" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;94 toy 4runner 6 cylinder. Just replaced sparkplug wires and distributor cap..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13945" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:50:18.797" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:50:18.797" Title="My 94 Toyota 4runner doesn't seem to gain speed even while I'm flooring the gas pedal...whats the issue and how can I fix it?" Tags="|engine|toyota|4runner|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T03:36:30.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23941" CreationDate="2015-12-29T13:57:50.150" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For everyone's edification, here are the dry/wet boiling point specifications for the different brake fluids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            Dry boiling point   Wet boiling point&#xA;DOT 3       205 °C (401 °F)     140 °C (284 °F)&#xA;DOT 4       230 °C (446 °F)     155 °C (311 °F)&#xA;DOT 5       260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)&#xA;DOT 5.1     260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why would I want to change over to DOT5 if that much work is involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the advent of DOT5.1, you probably would not want to switch over. One of the major disadvantages of DOT5 is it doesn't work with anti-lock braking systems. If you want to remove this part of your braking system when doing the change over, then you'd be okay. If you do not fully clean your braking system with solvents while switching over, the DOT5 will be contaminated and will not function as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is water left in the system during the switch over, the water will pool or &quot;puddle&quot; within the braking system which can cause corrosion. If that pool or puddle of water just happens to be in your caliper (or winds up there), it can flash over to steam if the environment gets hot enough, which can cause you all kinds of issues (back flow of brake fluid out of the system; complete loss of braking). This makes it &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important to get all of the water out of the system when using DOT5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are the benefits that huge where I would be motivated to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is very subjective, but for the most part, no. With DOT5.1 available, there really aren't huge benefits for moving to DOT5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the applications and benefits to DOT5 brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As vini_i stated, DOT5 doesn't absorb water like DOT3/4/5.1, so that is a major plus factor for it. DOT 5 has a service temperature range of -55°C (-67°F) to 55°C (131°F). It is used exclusively by the US Military for this reason. If you live in the Yukon Territories (Canada) or Norther Alaska (US), you may have an argument for using DOT5. DOT5 is also specified for some Harley Davidson motorcycles (though I understand they have stopped specifying it for their later models). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additionally I have seen references to DOT5.1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As alluded to previously, DOT5.1 is Glycol Ether/Borate Ester based just like DOT3/4. This makes them compatible, unlike DOT5 (which is silicone based). DOT5.1 has the same Wet/Dry boiling point specification as DOT5 as well. It will work with antilock braking systems, just like DOT3/4. Plus, you don't have to do any major disassemble of the braking system to switch over to it (as long as your braking system doesn't call for DOT5 or it wasn't previously converted over to DOT5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T13:57:50.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23939" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:07:42.250" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;To understand the question at large, it is first good to know what the application is and how it came about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine in question is the older type of 4-cylinder engine used in Series-A Minis (not the modern BMW manufactured one, but the one produced by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini#Mini_Cooper_and_Cooper_S:_1961.E2.80.932000&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;British Motor Corporation&lt;/a&gt;). This Mini used a specific head design which has a Siamese port configuration. The shared port work is where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinders 1 &amp;amp; 2 share an inlet port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinders 3 &amp;amp; 4 share an inlet port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cylinders 2 &amp;amp; 3 share an exhaust port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image of a highly modified Series-A head shows what I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9f3WR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9f3WR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice there are five ports. All of the ports are on the same side of the head. The square ports are exhaust ports and the round ports are intake ports. This somewhat strange configuration, while compact, has disadvantages. The two main problems being cross-port interference and flow potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross-port interference stems from the shared aspect of some of the ports. For instance, depending on where the stroke is occurring in the Otto-cycle, the engine could be trying to perform an intake function in one port (at the end of the intake cycle) and one next to it could be starting its intake cycle. Both cylinders could be trying to intake at the same time, which would mean both might be getting starved from the potential air flow if they were using the port all by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow potential refers to how much air a single port is able to move. Since cyls 1 &amp;amp; 4 have their own exclusive exhaust port, they have better flow potential than does the shared exhaust port of cyls 2 &amp;amp; 3. Since there is no competition for the exhaust port, cyls 1 &amp;amp; 4 have better flow potential than does the single port shared by cyls 2 &amp;amp; 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings us to the question: &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a scatter cam?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are single pattern camshafts where both the intake/exhaust lobes share the same profiles. The cam lobes open the same amount. They open and close for the same duration. A dual pattern camshaft is where there are two different cam lobe profiles on the intake and exhaust sides. A proper &lt;em&gt;scatter cam&lt;/em&gt; as used in the Series-A engine, would utilize four different lobe profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the scatter cam profile is to move the intake/exhaust events which interfere with one another &lt;em&gt;away from each other&lt;/em&gt;, so as to lessen the impact of the events. This means less scavenging would occur between intake events on the shared intake runner. To better understand, here is a list of the different lobe profiles needed (as specified by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minimania.com/Camshafts___Scatter_cams__pros_and_cons&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MiniMania forum&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One set of timing figures for inlets 1 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A different set of timing figures for inlets 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A specific set of timing figures for exhausts 1 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A specific set of timing figures for exhausts 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article on that forum goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When considering the problems in hand, it is easier to cut the engine down into two two-cylinder engines rather than looking at it as one four cylinder engine, treating cylinders 3 &amp;amp; 4 as mirror images of 1 &amp;amp; 2. The basic principle then is to arrange the cam lobes to maximise performance by minimising cross-port interference and maximising port flow performance caused by the port sharing and mismatched ports problem. Told you the principle was easy. I suppose the simplest explanation of what a scatter pattern cam does is to say it reduces the shared time of the siamesed inlet ports, thereby reducing the negative interaction of the inner cylinders by the outer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, before any cam timing figures and phasing can be considered you need to appreciate a few things. The inner cylinder of each pair draws fresh charge first, followed 180 degrees later by the outer one - as observed by the little experiment outlined above, the valves are open together for a great deal of time. Hence the outer cylinder is robbing fresh charge from the inner one, further exaggerated by the scavenging action at the end of the induction stroke of the outer cylinder over-powering that of the inner one. And the inner exhaust port is fundamentally less effective in terms of airflow capability compared to the outer one; one side effect being different scavenging periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simpler form of the scatter cam just adjusts for cyls 2 &amp;amp; 3, as you were suggesting. As you can tell above, there are far more complicated cams which can be designed which helps the entire engine breath better. The simple scatter cam is a trade off between performance and cost of research/development. (This goes back to the old saying, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;It costs money to make horsepower.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of the scatter cam is to get the most out of the engine. It is mainly designed with performance in mind. As you can tell, with a normally aspirated Series-A motor, there is only so much you can get out of one of these engines. They were originally meant to push a small car down the road with minimal amount of horsepower needed to do so. Due to the layout of the vehicle (low center of gravity; wide stance), it has become a favorite of European Motorsports enthusiasts. As with all enthusiasts, there is always a goal of better performance. The scatter cam helps squeak out just that little bit more. For the average person, these cams do not make much sense. To the performance minded, it can be that little bit needed to get them to the finish line first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;why is it called a scatter cam&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, the only thing I can figure out is this is due to the scattered cam profiles. As described, there can be four different cam lobes present out of eight different lobes ... the term &amp;quot;scattered&amp;quot; seems to fit quite nicely here. This is an assumption on my part, but seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T12:25:49.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23370" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:25:38.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't work on Kia Soul, either. I can even hold the door handle as far open as it will go without actually opening the door, and the door still locks with the remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13949" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T15:25:38.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:35:11.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use D3 in snowy conditions and climbing hills. In the winter, it helps prevent slippage from gear shifts. You can't slow down in the snow on a hill or you will get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13950" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:27:53.517" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:27:53.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23958" CreationDate="2015-12-29T17:05:48.833" Score="11" ViewCount="17927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned recently that many older and some newer diesels don't have throttle plates to control airflow.  I was also quite shocked to learn about a condition called &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23585/diesel-engine-runaway-what-is-it&quot;&gt;diesel engine runaway.&lt;/a&gt;  Apparently a diesel engine can run out of control from oil pooling in the manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that not having throttle plates on older diesel engines has it's risks.  Why have newer diesel engines begun to adopt a throttle?  What are the ultimate benefits of incorporating a throttle plate into the intake system?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see benefits regarding preventing diesel runaway conditions.  Risk for diesel runaway can be mitigated with intake design to prevent the oil pooling condition in the intake manifold, so why integrate a throttle plate?  Would a throttle plate assist in greater level of efficiency for fuel consumption? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T16:05:41.617" Title="Why don't all diesel engines have throttle plates?" Tags="|engine|diesel|emissions|engine-theory|design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23956" CreationDate="2015-12-29T17:32:30.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti Shudder Valve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a direct answer, but one engine component that many people confuse with a throttle plate on a diesel engine is called an &quot;anti shudder valve&quot;.  This looks exactly like a throttle body, but it only has two positions - fully open and fully closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an engine equipped with the device, the valve is completely closed when the key is turned off, completely starving the engine of air.  This causes the engine to shut down quickly and smoothly without any &quot;shuddering&quot; that might happen if the engine continued to take in and compress air as the rotating mass comes to a rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T17:32:30.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23956" CreationDate="2015-12-29T17:35:55.287" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; By adding a throttle plate, it creates the vacuum needed to draw in gasses from an EGR valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since diesel engines are designed to run lean, they don't need throttle plates to run. They utilize the amount of diesel fuel needed to keep the engine running and to provide the work needed to do the job required of them. One of the inherent issues with running lean is with a lean burn, you also run hotter. If the burn is hotter than ~1700 degF, you start to form Nitrogen Oxides (NOx), which is the key ingredient in acid rain and will tear up people's lungs (therefor is nasty stuff). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways to deter the formation of NOx during the combustion cycle is to introduce an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) process. The spent exhaust gasses provide a means by which to control the burn process thus reducing the heat in during the combustion process. This has been used for many years in gasoline engines. Unfortunately with diesel engines, since there isn't a high level of vacuum in the intake, it won't readily draw the EGR gasses into itself and therefore is self defeating. By adding a throttle plate, it creates the vacuum needed to do the draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T21:23:08.790" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T21:23:08.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23982" CreationDate="2015-12-29T17:38:57.187" Score="6" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep hearing about DEF ... what is it and why is it used in conjunction with diesel engines? I know it is a more recent thing (last decade), but don't know much about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T07:43:45.737" Title="What is DEF and how is it used?" Tags="|diesel|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T18:55:36.427" Score="4" ViewCount="7115" Body="&lt;p&gt;My engine temperature is low when it's cold outside.  I'll drive for 30 min, and the engine temperature will be at the quarter mark.  If it's moderately cold outside, the temperature will eventually go to the middle, but if I turn on the heating, the temperature starts dropping; because of this, I don't turn on the heating to defog my windshield.  The engine temperature is OK if it's not cold outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was involved in an accident, and as a result, my car started leaking oil.  The mechanic said my oil pan is leaking and my rear main seal is leaking.  I can smell the burning oil outside my car.  Could this oil leak be related to the low engine temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mazda Protege.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13953" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T18:59:17.073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T20:54:05.800" Title="Engine temperature low when it's cold outside" Tags="|mazda|oil-leak|temperature|protege|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9648" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:17:43.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think you've answered your own question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;cheap Chinese import&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a clutch starts to slip a little bit it can go all the way to useless pretty quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's slipping regularly it creates a great deal of heat from friction.  When the steel and neoprene plates are locked together there isn't any heat be released from friction because they are locked into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your plates are probably glazed from over heating.  You can take them out and use 250 grit sandpaper to take the glazing off of everything.  Be sure you clean them exceptionally well when are done as you don't want any of the grit leftover getting into your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this on liter size bikes to get the clutch through, or to get home, and it's been effective.  I've had them continue to work for an extended period of time too.  When your a kid and you don't have any money, you're motivated to make it last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trick could be permanent solution until it actually where's out, or a stop gap.  You'll find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may discover your neoprene plates are completely destroyed and ground up in your oil, if that's the case, change your oil and filter ASAP and check your oil catch screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T06:37:42.567" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:37:42.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23987" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:12:58.967" Score="19" ViewCount="13807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ducati's use a unique method to open and close their valves.  It's called the desmodromic valve train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The desmodromic valve system does not use springs to close the valve, it uses the cam and has a valve closing lobe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rxzc5.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rxzc5.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Desmo Valve Train&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits to removing valve springs from the valve train?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did Ducati use this type of valve mechanism as opposed to a more tradition under the bucket shim design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T07:32:17.183" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T06:58:26.063" Title="Why did Ducati decide to use the desmodromic valve train rather than a more tradition valve train?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|valve|camshaft|springs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23628" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:21:20.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the mechanic and he changed the ventil unit and the sound stopped.  Thanx guys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13796" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T20:21:20.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23969" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:28:40.060" Score="5" ViewCount="3192" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an old Toro 824 used snowblower from the mid 90's.  The last two times I used it we had wet snow.  Snow kept getting clogged and I had to break it up with broom and then it would just clog again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like an idiot I kept doing this and the augur froze.  The belt was smoking a bit and the auger wouldn't turn.  I put the blower back in the garage let it sit (and melt).  When I came back out the auger turned fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had another snow last night and I used the blower today.  The snow clogged pretty easily and it didn't &quot;throw&quot; the snow and eventually clogged.  I borrowed the neighbors 524 new blower and that handled the snow albeit poorly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely my belt needs to be changed or tightened?  Or are belt issues an all or nothing deal?  Changing the belts on the two stager's seems pretty challenging and I may have to sub it out.  I'm hoping I can chalk it up to wet snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13956" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T16:35:14.673" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T16:35:14.673" Title="Can snowblowers auger belt weaken or is this just wet snow" Tags="|engine|snowblower|toro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23960" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:54:05.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil leak is unrelated. You should fix that. (:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperature gauge is faulty or the sender that sends the gauge the temperature reading is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: Block part of the front of the radiator with a piece of cardboard. This will force the system temperature to raise. Drive around for a little. Watch the gauge. Does it go to normal operating range?&#xA;If not, you can start by replacing the sender. Then look into the gauge cluster. This goes from cheapest to most expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermostat is stuck open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: The upper radiator hose seen here next to the right of the radiator cap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/El66B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/El66B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2000 mazda protege engine bay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should feel warm/hot when the car warms up. If it feels cold after a while it means that the thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replacing it is fairly simple but a bit messy (due to the coolant dripping out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this video of the thermostat being replaced on a similar vehicle: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUp70pm51dI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUp70pm51dI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fan is always on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test: Open the hood. Is the fan on? Is the A/C on? The fan should be off if the A/C is off. It will only turn on for brief periods of time with the A/C off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T20:54:05.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23962" CreationDate="2015-12-29T21:21:19.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal was to prevent valve float at higher rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the metallurgy of the day it required a lot of spring pressure to ensure that the spring was push the valve closed. The desmo unit mechanically forces the valve closed as opposed to using spring pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow an engine to run at a higher rpm then a unit with a conventional spring poppet valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was more important on racing motors but Ducati used it on street bikes as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T21:21:19.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23964" CreationDate="2015-12-29T21:45:43.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that since you experienced the burnt belt smell, it's probably time to replace. Overall, the procedure looks pretty simple and straight forward. Here are the instructions for replacing the traction drive belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REPLACING AUGER/IMPELLER DRIVE BELT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull high tension wire off spark plug and make sure it does not contact the plug accidentally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove two thread forming screws holding belt cover in place and set belt guard aside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move auger drive control to DISENGAGE and wheel drive control to N, neutral. Next, remove auger drive belt from engine pulley and large auger/impeller pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install new belt around large auger/impeller pulley. Next, loop belt over engine pulley, making sure that belt is on inside of idler pulley and wire belt guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install belt cover with two thread forming screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reattach high tension wire onto spark plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADJUSTING AUGER/IMPELLER DRIVE BELT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen jam nut from clevis at bottom of auger drive control rod. Next, remove cotter pin and clevis pin holding clevis to bent rod.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate clevis counterclockwise - out - to increase belt tension. By contrast, rotate clevis clockwise - in - to decrease belt tension. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; When adjusting clevis, rotate it one half - 180° - turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect clevis to bent rod with clevis pin and cotter pin. Next, tighten jam nut against top of clevis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tension of belt by operating the auger. If belt still slips, adjust clevis again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-ATx67S398U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; of the Toro 824 Manual. Quality was so bad, I did a lot of squinting to get it for you. Please watch it yourself and be thoroughly as unimpressed with it as I was ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T21:45:43.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T00:07:30.367" Score="8" ViewCount="2074" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are driving in a winter storm and our old wiper fluid is frozen. We picked up some de-icer fluid from a gas station but it has not yet unfrozen the fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for an on the road fix? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine doesn't seem to be heating up the frozen fluid and the windshield wipers keep smearing anything on the windshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11980" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T07:43:40.077" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T07:43:40.077" Title="Frozen windshield wiper fluid on road trip" Tags="|maintenance|windshield-wipers|windshield|windshield-washer|ice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23971" CreationDate="2015-12-30T00:39:21.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a parts explosion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7URCp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7URCp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose #9 you could drain through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the coolant idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pour coolant in the reservoir, it might take a bit but it will turn the slush into liquid.  There a glycerin in it and it's alcohol based so it's miscible with any alcohol in your wiper fluid.  Nothing bad will happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Others chime in if this is ridiculous to you for some reason&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once its liquid, pull the hose #9 off the off the bottom of the tank and drain it.  I can't tell from here but if the little pump is there you would need to operate it from the cabin to get the tank empty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once empty rinse it out good with bottle water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;reattach hose and then fill it up with non-freezing washer fluid from the convenience store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T00:39:21.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23975" CreationDate="2015-12-30T02:01:26.737" Score="6" ViewCount="9628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sitting in traffic, my car's thermostat goes up to the red. If I put it in neutral and rev it, it goes up a tiny bit, then suddenly drops back to normal. Is that the thermostat sticking, or something worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is a 1991 Mercedes 300E&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11915" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T18:46:59.930" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T18:46:59.930" Title="Does overheating that goes away under high RPMs indicate a sticky thermostat?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|thermostat|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23974" CreationDate="2015-12-30T02:40:03.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very well could be the thermostat.  However, did you check the obvious things, like coolant levels and make sure you don't have any air pockets? I had an overheating issue that would manifest after 20 to 40 minutes of running the car, which was due to an air pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually if it overheats at idle you check the radiator fans, radiator fins bent or clogged, but I have heard of a bad secondary fan causing this issue when high rpms would make the temp go down.  Make sure the fan switches are working properly.  I have heard that if you put on the A/C it forces both fans to run, regardless of the temp fan switch on some cars, so that might be a way to bypass the fan switch if the fans don't run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a thread on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/archive/index.php/t-659689.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Odd Overheating Problem&lt;/a&gt; that lists a lot of possible things with a similar problem on other types of cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I experienced recently. I was seeing higher than normal temperatures on my car and the symptoms were similar to a sticking thermostat, which I had just replaced.  What the problem was low coolant levels due to a faulty radiator cap, of all things.  I noticed misty steam coming up around the hood at idle after the car had warmed up.  Then I saw small amounts of water and coolant at the top of the radiator, but I couldn't find any cracks or leaks anywhere.  The replaced radiator cap fixed the issue.  My point here is observe and note anything out of the ordinary as a clue to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need more details. Have you done any related work recently?  When did the problem start?  How many miles are on the vehicle? Are there any other clues you can give us or is this all there is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T15:03:58.703" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T15:03:58.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23370" CreationDate="2015-12-30T03:27:25.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've checked with W203 2010 and the central lock works. Also with a friends KIA and Toyota. Central lock still works. I also suspect this might be a hoax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T03:27:25.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23956" CreationDate="2015-12-30T03:57:02.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over here . . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23865/why-do-heavy-vehicles-almost-always-use-diesel-engines&quot;&gt;Why do heavy vehicles almost always use diesel engines?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone wrote; &quot;I can get umpteen Nm of torque from a motorcycle engine and a big gear ratio, yet they do not use them in heavy vehicles. So, torque alone is not the answer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response; yes, I can understand how you could come to that conclusion, as I love/ride bikes and also have one that is turbocharged that possesses lots of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, simply put, torque production with high durability and low friction (the latter two mostly coming from low engine speeds and the use of heavy duty powertrain design approaches) is really the main reason diesel engines are used.&#xA;Extrapolating this and also your earlier response about motorcycles; if you look at Motorcycle engines of comparable size/cylinders to small car engines of similar capacity, you will see that the car manufacturers often still decide to adopt major design changes to their powertrain - rather than just using the same engine design approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly there are different considerations and these come down to how the torque is manifested and delivered by various engine configurations and manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These design changes are due to the fact that the car (and particularly truck) engine must produce more torque, and - if possible - more if it, down lower in the rev range; in order to provide the required thrust for all the (varying) weight the car itself always possesses and can carry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycles, on the other hand do not have quite such a large potential for varying weight (as cars), and as such their engines don't need to be straddled with these same design limitations/specifications; hence their emphasis on high rotational speeds, light weight, high volumetric efficiencies, and KW - rather than (specifically) torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, motorcycles also are, by/large, (sold on them being) performance oriented machines, and in any event (particularly for the ones less than 1000cc) that means that they usually must rotate their crankshafts at reasonably high speeds in order to produce meaningful torque and power.&#xA;This means (amongst other considerations) motorcycle engine designs - unlike small engine passenger cars - don't have to compromise high crankshaft speeds for low down torque; as most car engines designed - as above stated - do - as those car engines will simply not rev comparably high even though the same capacity engine could otherwise (in a motorcycle ) easily be designed to.&#xA;So, we have an engine design trend for vehicles (that are designed to carry varying weight) that reads like this; more *constant/high value torque over a greater rev range, preferably starting as low as possible within the rev range, and with efficiency, reliability, and economy if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle engines fail at the first *specification and as such they can never do this for the reasons above, others, and also because Torque is a product not just of the combustion process and its resulting forces - but also because it is a product of the engines rotating/reciprocal weight; inertial torque.&#xA;And, motorcycles (particularly their engines' rotating components) are usually quite light - not in the least to achieve the high revs they need to produce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore a motorcycle engine/design not only fails to produce the meaningful values of (inertial and composite) torque where it is needed in order to perform the tasks of heavy vehicles - but the torque it does produce is largely combustion-force dependent, and as such (even with modern gearbox design approaches) is still too susceptible to changes in weight and vehicle ascension/gradient for the tasks required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design limitation and problem (associated with applying motorcycle engines to heavy vehicles) largely and most obviously manifests itself as a bore, stroke, reciprocal weight, and torque bandwidth issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try riding a motorcycle around the city - especially if it is hilly - that has a passenger and/or (particularly a) motorcycle trailer attached to it, and you will see not only how impractical it is to grab 4K/rpm - 5K/rpm every time you want to take off even on a really powerful motorcycle - but also you will see how long your clutch lasts and ceases to be non-smelly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, (at best/least) the same weight displacement considerations are precisely what cars must accommodate all the time and reliably; not to mention trucks.&#xA;That all takes us back to my earlier comments about heavy vehicles, diesel engines, and torque; as they produce high torque values quite well, at low engine speeds, over a wide rev range, and they do it reasonably reliably too.&#xA;Aside from heat, noise, and exhaust; engines only ever produce Torque and Horsepower, and the latter is a function of the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reliable and cost effective torque is the name of the game, and that's why diesels where invented and it's primarily why they're mostly used in heavy vehicles today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13962" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T03:57:02.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24185" CreationDate="2015-12-30T04:13:59.097" Score="9" ViewCount="38162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put new oil in my nissan earlier today (5w-30) and as I was driving I started to smell what I thought was burning oil, and I noticed behind me excessive amount of smoke while driving. I went from 3rd to to neutral just to glide and smoke went away. The smoke was kind of thick but it dissipated pretty quickly. I am nervous I might have screwed something up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I smelled the exhaust, no sweet smell (hooray I guess?) but I noticed the some old oil (or liquid soot maybe?) underneath the exhaust, I checked farther up see there was any oil leaking underneath the engine, and so far I didn't see anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its not burning oil, I guess it could be condensation running down the pipe when I had the front elevated and burned? I doubt it thought cause it was a lot of smoke when I was driving home (mile or so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 1991 nissan sentra GXE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13964" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T06:50:26.270" Title="A lot of smoke coming from exhaust after oil change (mixed old with new oil)" Tags="|nissan|oil-change|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T04:16:23.727" Score="4" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the steps to program my newly cut key because I lost my original key...After going through the steps I must have done something wrong because now the car is just black and won't do anything. Lights won't come on or nothing...Can you please help me in solving thins problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13965" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T12:39:09.887" Title="2009 Chevy Malibu key programming failed" Tags="|key|program|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23959" CreationDate="2015-12-30T04:17:01.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;DEF Diesel Exhaust Fluid is a Urea based fluid that is added to the exhaust ahead of a thermal reactor. Its purpose is to reduce the amount of NOx (nitrogen oxides) in the exhaust. It works as a fuel. NOx is reduced only in rich mixtures. Diesels run lean at all times and therefore have little extra fuel in the exhaust. While the lean combustion mixtures in diesels produce much NOx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the schematic of a typical newer style diesel exhaust. Exhaust gas exits the oxidation catalyst A then Urea is mixed in at B. The exhaust and urea enter the SCR unit were several chemical reactions occur. First the urea is converted to ammonia this then reacts with the NOx to reduce it to Nitrogen and water. The particulate trap E catches and then periodically burns the fine carbon particulate that is also a regulated pollutant. A clever but rather expensive solution. The process is not new, it has been used in stationary diesel engines for some time.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJRtU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJRtU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOx is an EPA regulated pollutant, in the atmosphere it combines with hydrocarbons in the presence of sunlight and turns into ozone. Ozone is a pollutant known to damage lung tissue. In 2010 USEPA limits on tailpipe NOx output changed to much lower allowable amounts. New methods of control were needed. The above outlined method became the most common system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T07:43:45.737" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T07:43:45.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T04:57:24.317" Score="4" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my Jeep Compass 2012 when 4wd locker is on (I see it ON on the panel as I pulled locker),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I noticed that when I was parking at full of now parking lot, my front wheels stopped spinning, and only one rear wheel keep spinning (with no much traction) so I stack and had to shovel... (which is silly for that car). The surface itself is horizontal (not a hill, just parking lot next to my house)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected that all 4 wheels would be at work trying to get through the snow to get traction (since I &quot;locked it&quot; to be 4wd) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have any warning message on my board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: How to make all 4 wheels do their job? (maybe my 4wd is broken but it does not show it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13966" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T18:12:58.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T18:12:58.643" Title="jeep compass 2012 with 4wd locker on, only one rear wheel spins" Tags="|jeep|4wd|differential|traction-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23974" CreationDate="2015-12-30T04:58:23.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It sounds like the issue is with heat rejection.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tell-tale sign is that the coolant temps rise into the red when the car is at idle (low RPM, little air flow across the radiator), but when the car moves the temps drop back down to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could cause this? A couple of possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;low air flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the radiator fans turning on when they should? According to eBay, your car has an electric fan and a viscous-clutch-based fan, both should be engaged and running if temperatures are climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;low coolant flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a stuck-closed thermostat be the cause for inadequate flow? Yes, but there are other more likely causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a failing water pump&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;air pockets&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;flow restrictions (e.g. clogged radiator)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd expect that a stuck-closed thermostat would mean that the car would still be warmer than normal when moving.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T13:45:43.393" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T13:45:43.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23986" CreationDate="2015-12-29T07:37:25.833" Score="7" ViewCount="6622" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1:&lt;/strong&gt; When one removes a car battery, why does one start with the minus wire?&#xA;Is it because if we remove the plus wire first it may touch the body of the car and close the circuit, causing a short-circuit that leads to ... what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2:&lt;/strong&gt; Why doesn't one get electrocuted when touching the minus wire while removing the battery? I'd image that when touching it we'd be part of the circuit and the current should flow through us. What am I missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T17:34:00.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T17:34:00.523" Title="Removing a car battery - order of wires explanation" Tags="|electrical|battery|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23985" CreationDate="2015-12-29T07:57:36.750" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;When disconnecting a clamp from a car battery, there is a danger of creating a short circuit with the tools that are in contact with the battery terminal.  So a tool in contact with the positive terminal can cause a short circuit if it touches any piece of grounded metal.  Starting with the negative terminal removes this danger; now you only need to ensure it does not touch the positive terminal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the negative terminal is disconnected, the only way to complete a circuit to the battery is to contact the negative post itself.  Nothing else in the entire vehicle would complete the circuit if touched by the tools.  So it's now safe to be in contact with the positive terminal and all it is connected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrocution won't happen in any circumstance because the voltage is 12 volts.  Even though the battery is capable of supplying many amps, Ohm's law tells us that 12 volts isn't enough to push much current through a person's body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38783" OwnerDisplayName="gbarry" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T07:57:36.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23962" CreationDate="2015-12-30T05:47:59.310" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ducati use desmodromic valve systems because it provides for;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A more faithful adherence to both;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(1A) Not just high speed Valvetrain timing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(1B) But also high acceleration Valvetrain  rates; regardless of what weight/material the valve is made from.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter (1B) - which can provide an advantage over the pneumatic Valvetrain design approach - allows for a more optimal and square-wave like Valvetrain function; a function that most typical valve-spring Valvetrains (even at moderate speeds) simply can’t accommodate.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An alternative to pneumatic Valvetrain design approaches used by other manufacturers in MotoGP; that - if implemented correctly - can also provide both weight savings and also cylinder head port geometry benefits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footnote&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ducati's desmodromic valve system was (contrary to popular belief) not invented by them, it does actually employ springs (see links below), and (some of) the significant considerations and/or drawbacks of the desmodromic valve approach are as follows;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A complicated design involving phase-conjugate camshaft design and machining that performs marginally better than most modern day high performance valve-spring alternatives.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) Most comparable Japanese (and some European) motorcycles using traditional valve-spring alternatives not only reliably rev higher than Ducati's desmodromic valve system, but also do so without loss of power when compared to Ducati.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;b) Several other Japanese and European motorcycles using both (i) the same 90 degree “L” and/or “V” twin engine configuration and capacity as Ducati, and (ii) traditional valve-spring alternatives; not only produce similar and/or more power than Ducati - but also do so quite reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;c) Ducati’s desmodromic valve system employed in their earlier 900 SS models (that shared an almost identical engine 860cc design to their 860/900 GTS range) provided no real meaningful power/torque benefit over the their 860/900 GTS range - at least not one that could not easily be attained by doing the same (non desmodromic valve system) “delta” modifications to the their 860/900 GTS range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ducati’s desmodromic valve system's camshaft (timing and conjugate) designs are considerably more complex and therefore susceptible to change engine behaviour with wear; more than, say, other traditional valve-spring alternatives/designs exhibiting the same degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance and servicing intervals. Take a look at Ducati's (real-world and much shorter) homolgated product line's servicing intervals to most Japanese (and some European) motorcycles using traditional valve-spring alternatives/design; and note also how much greater the crankshaft rotational speeds (friction/wear?) are of the Japanese counterparts that usually have greater servicing intervals. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes Benz whom (between them, Maserati, Ducati, and Austin, are often cited for inventing the desmodromic system) have a considerable racing/engineering success and history, and they were one of - if not the - first to use the desmodromic system in F1. Mercedes Benz didn't drop the idea of the desmodromic valve actuation because it performed better in ways that made the additional complexities worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The desmodromic valve actuation system that Ducati have some patents for is considerably different than the first desmodromic valve actuation systems that were invented and aforementioned. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All currently working desmodromic valve actuation systems that offer timing diagram and other performance benefits over traditional racing and/or high performance valve spring Valvetrains must employ extremely aggressive (even by traditional racing and/or high performance standards) Valvetrain acceleration rates in order to make their advantages realizable over other options; and even then the cost effectiveness and the performance benefits of currently working desmodromic valve actuation systems are still debatable - hence their lack of popularity with the racing fraternity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotary valves - when correctly implemented - are a far better idea than currently working desmodromic valve actuation and also other popular Valvetrain systems; that lost popularity and funding for to F1 and other decisions. Theoretically this (rotary valve) approach resolves many limitations of the poppet valve whilst also offering many other benefits. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It still requires springs to be implemented properly and reliably; defeating one of its most commonly considered benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The whole idea of any desmodromic system is to force the valves to remain utterly complaint with the Valvetrain/camshaft timing diagram as faithfully as possible. As such the way in which Ducati implement their desmodromic valve actuation in MotoGP means that (unlike pneumatic and traditional valve-sprung Valvetrain systems) there is no chance that the intake/exhaust valve - as it transcends through its line of theoretically allowed linear movement - can move in any other way than the timing diagram intends. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear on point 9; conversely, pneumatic and traditional valve-sprung Valvetrain systems can often (and sometimes are actually designed {within 1/4 mile and/or engine power shoot-out contests} to) accelerate their poppet valves at rates that are faster and/or not entirely adherent to the camshaft and/or overall Valvetrain timing diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I believe it is mostly for reasons of tradition, heritage, and marketing, that Ducati persist with their desmodromic system on their non MotoGP machines; as it provides very little real-world benefits in those guises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMwmV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMwmV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jLQc.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jLQc.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13967" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:05:45.630" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:05:45.630" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T08:13:09.580" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to replace the front struts on my 98 Mazda 626 and was wondering if there are other components which should be checked / replaced at the same time, i.e. that if the struts are shot there is a high likelihood they need replacing as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T13:40:00.127" Title="What to Check When Replacing Struts" Tags="|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24028" CreationDate="2015-12-30T08:26:59.490" Score="6" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;hot-swap&quot; I mean ensuring that the new battery is connected in parallel to the old battery while the old battery is removed and the new one is installed in its place. The idea is to ensure that the vehicle electricals/electronics are never without battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen mechanics do this on a few Japanese vehicles (2008 Nissan Pathfinder, 2009 Mitsubishi Pajero).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also heard of one person lose central locking on his 2007 Nissan Patrol after failing to hot-swap his battery out during a replacement DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these observations some kind of urban myth or are the vehicles designed like this from the factory? If yes, why? If not, why do mechanics (even at dealerships) observe this practice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T18:10:59.357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T06:40:29.270" Title="Why do the batteries on some cars need to be hot-swapped?" Tags="|electrical|battery|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24005" CreationDate="2015-12-30T09:15:33.593" Score="5" ViewCount="6260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the head gasket on my Honda Accord.  The cylinder head was tested at a machine shop and they also replaced the valve seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't do any work to the cylinders, except use degreaser to clean off the piston heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the engine put back together, but was unable to get it to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car into Pep Boys for an Engine Diagnostic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said that they tested the battery, spark plugs and fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic noticed that the top cover for the timing belt was off and jumped to the conclusion that the reason the car wouldn't start was because the timing was off and were going to charge me $700 to replace the timing belt.  I explained to the mechanic the work that I had done and that I had removed the top cover and just hadn't replaced it yet.  Still he said that the timing must be the problem but he couldn't tell for sure without removing the lower cover and charging me a lot of money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I feel that I received very poor service especially for the amount of money ($100) this engine diagnostic cost and won't be returning there for auto service.  The clerk was rude to me and I overheard them call my car a piece of $#!*.  It probably is, but still they shouldn't have said so with me standing right there.  I'm pretty sure the mechanic was wrong about the timing being off.  You can check the timing without removing the lower cover using the sights on the lower cover and the markings on the crankshaft pulley.  The mechanic made me second guess myself.  I rechecked the timing marks and they all lined up and even removed the lower cover and checked the marks on the timing belt drive pulley and balance belt drive pulley even though they're all connected with the same key to the crankshaft.  I removed and replaced the timing belt following the manual and it still wouldn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other things I can check assuming I can trust the mechanic to have tested the basics like the spark plugs firing and the engine getting fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I adjusted the valve clearances and the valves are opening at the correct camshaft positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll do a compression test, just to make sure even though the compression was good before this service and the cylinder head was tested at the machine shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could replace the Crankshaft position/TDC sensors, even though I just put new ones in.  I have gone through the experience of buying a new faulty camshaft position sensor before for a different car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of is to test the ignition timing with a timing light.  Ignition timing could be off since I removed and replaced the distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13558" LastEditorUserId="13558" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T09:23:39.283" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T13:34:37.027" Title="97 Honda Accord won't start after head gasket replacement" Tags="|honda|ignition|accord|sensor|timing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23993" CreationDate="2015-12-30T09:29:34.833" Score="9" ViewCount="16517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21028/rough-low-idle-and-engine-shakes-hesitation-and-lack-of-power/23671?noredirect=1#comment36035_23671&quot;&gt;my recent problem with weakly firing plugs&lt;/a&gt;, I'm looking at inline spark testers.  I've seen three basic types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002STSC6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simple flashing one&lt;/a&gt; which goes in between the wire and plug with the plug in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rAP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rAP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly more complicated type with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000OCKJDW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the addition of a ground connection&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJoYf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJoYf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a type that has &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002STSBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an adjustable gap and is grounded&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOaqD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOaqD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle one makes the following claim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;pinpoints if there is a spark plug, plug wire, mechanical, fuel injection or electrical problem. Shows a duplicate view of the ignition spark so technician can visually check condition of ignition system at each cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of problems can be detected with each type, and how do they function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T04:37:19.017" Title="What can I do with an Inline Spark Tester?" Tags="|ignition|sparkplugs|tools|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23983" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:04:33.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a situation like this, my Landrover Discovery 2 uses the traction control system to pulse the brakes on the wheels that are spinning faster than the others (described simply).  In so doing, it transfers torque to the other wheels which should then cause all 4 wheels to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would presume that your vehicle should be doing a similar thing, especially since it is a lot newer vehicle.  Do you have any known problem with the traction control system?  Is it turned on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:04:33.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23991" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:19:40.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, think of the possible failure modes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plug is clogged with carbon or has an isolation error - it conducts current, but doesn't generate sparks, because the current flows through the carbon from electrode to electrode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Break inside the plug, e.g. broken / worn electrodes - plug doesn't conduct (and of course doesn't generate sparks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable has a break / short &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coil doesn't generate HV pulses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coil generates weak HV pulses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first device&lt;/strong&gt; just tests if current is flowing out of the cable into the spark plug. So if you can see it flashing, coil and cable are fine, but it's still possible there's failure #1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number two&lt;/strong&gt; is basically the same, but you can also connect it directly to ground. If it flashes when connected to ground, but not when connected to the plug, you have #2. With all that additional equipment, it  may also be connected directly to the coil, without the cable to test for #3 and #4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The third&lt;/strong&gt; is used without plug and allows to measure the strength of the HV pulse. It should be strong enough to generate a spark up to a certain gap width. For example, 30kV could form a spark over a 1cm gap in dry air. So this device allows to test #5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that none of these tests #1, but a plug can be easily replaced for testing. If the resistance between terminal an thread/frame measured by a multimeter and it's not infinite, then the spark plug is probably clogged with carbon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#5 is a bit special. A ignition coil has thousands of turns to generate the high voltage. It is possible that the insulation between some of the turns fails, and so a short circuit is formed between those turns. As result, the voltage of the pulse is lower than normal. This &quot;weaker&quot; pulse may still be able to ignite the mixture in your cylinder most of the times, but under some conditions, it will not, or not so reliably. Typically, the motor will stall or run roughly at low RPMs / when idling, and starting the motor is not easy.&#xA;This means, while the plug still generates sparks and the first two devices will flash, the spark will be too weak to ignite the fuel. And that's a bit difficult to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third device allows to measure the pulse strength by testing what's the maximum width of a gap which will still generate sparks. However, if this pipe is filled with ambient air, the width heavily depends on humidity. So, using this is more an estimation than a real measurement. Yet, you may compare all the coils of the vehicle to test if one is weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T13:13:53.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T13:13:53.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23990" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:29:44.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly worth checking the ignition timing - one obvious possibility (though I'm sure you've checked this) is that the timing is 180 degrees out, so it's firing at the end of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, have you done a compression test since reassembling? I doubt there would be any problems there, but might be worth a quick check. Also check the fuel supply - does it smell like unburnt fuel is coming out of the exhaust? Check for any loose connections, blocked lines or airlocks in the fuel system. Check that the fuel pumps are working too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:29:44.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23988" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:32:45.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bushes - If you've got the front end apart it's probably worth replacing these, unless they have been done recently. It's also probably worth checking the gaiters on the trackrod ends and driveshaft CVs, and any balljoints, easier to replace them while it's all apart too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC there isn't much else that would wear out, but inspect the suspension arms for any signs of damage while it's apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glossary of above:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bushes/Bushings:&lt;/em&gt; The rubber bits that allow the suspension components to move relative to each other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Balljoints:&lt;/em&gt; ball-and-socket type joints between two components. Usually protected by a rubber gaiter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gaiter/Boot:&lt;/em&gt; A rubber boot over a balljoint to keep the grease in and dirt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trackrod End/Tie rod End:&lt;/em&gt; A balljoint on the end of a trackrod (the rod connecting the steering rack to the wheel), adjustable in length to change the toe-in of the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Driveshaft CV/CV Joint:&lt;/em&gt; Constant-velocity joint in the driveshaft. Allows drive to be transmitted through different angles as the steering and suspension change with the motion of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suspension Arms/Control Arms:&lt;/em&gt; The metal arms that hold the wheel onto the car. Joined at both ends with bushes or balljoints to allow the suspension to move up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find a nice royalty-free image to include here, but there's a good explanation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_suspsteer1.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - no affiliation, just found it through an image search...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T13:40:00.127" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T13:40:00.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23985" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:40:52.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you remove the ground cable (-ve in most cars), you are probably touching the body of the car - but the ground terminal is connected to the body, so you don't complete a circuit, and so can't either cause a short or get a shock (though as gbarry's answer points out, you'd barely feel the shock anyway, as the voltage is too low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you then go to remove the other terminal, you still can't complete a circuit as you've disconnected the ground, so there is no way for current to get back to the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't let any metal tools touch both terminals, or the +ve terminal and the car bodywork when both are connected - the resultant short can cause enough current to flow to weld the tools to the terminals! Similarly, be very careful around the terminals when wearing any metal jewellery (such as wedding rings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:40:52.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2015-12-30T10:43:47.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What steps have you tried? Some systems require you to have an original key present in order to program a new one (use the original one to disarm the system, then program the new one), so you might find that without any originals, you have to go back to the dealer to get the new one programmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:43:47.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23981" CreationDate="2015-12-30T12:38:36.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you tripped out the anti-theft system. If that is the case you would need a factory scan tool or something equivalent to unlock it. I did it on a 06 Malibu and the anti-theft system freaked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It thinks that someone may possibly be tampering with the electrical or computer system, so it just erases all knowledge of keys and locks down. It's a good measure because car hacking is becoming an extremely popular hobby and crime haha.&#xA;I would check that out, or take it to the dealer. You might be able to complain enough to get them to help you out with a little information before you have to take it in and pay. It literally only takes 30 minutes for them to hook up a scan tool and reset you locking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are leasing the car it might have an aftermarket module that can shut down the vehicle if you didn't pay your bills on time. They also have anti-theft systems as well that can screw with things. I've seen them just malfunction for absolutely no reason and have had to tow them to the shop. I hope you get it figured out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T12:38:36.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21655" CreationDate="2015-12-30T12:48:33.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on some of the understandings of throttle pates already posted (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23865/why-do-heavy-vehicles-almost-always-use-diesel-engines/23950#23950&quot;&gt;Why do heavy vehicles almost always use diesel engines?&lt;/a&gt;) and how/when they may apply to diesel engines - especially comments related to how diesel engines without throttle plates always ingest the maximum amount of air - for those diesel's the answer may possibly depend whether the engine in question was one of those and already ingesting more air than it actually needed (and running lean) to support effective combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case - which suggests and earlier model diesel without sophisticated control hardware - the non turbo diesel would probably do better in high altitude even though its compression ratio would still drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would probably hold true even more if the gasoline engine in the comparison really - as stated above - only had an 8:1 ratio; which is really low for a gasoline engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 8:1, dropping a few more compression points would really hurt Torque; not so for the diesel at 20:1 that can still (usually) produce decent Torque at a lower engine speed that may also facilitate better cylinder filling to offset the altitude issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13947" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T12:48:33.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23974" CreationDate="2015-12-30T13:24:45.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy had such problem on his MB 190E. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On engines like 190's (and many other Mercedes cars of these years) there wasn't an electric radiator fans, they used something called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscous_coupling_unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viscous coupling unit&lt;/a&gt; that transfers torque to the fan depending on the difference in angular velocity between the engine belt and the fan itself. So, primary, standing in the traffic jam may require you to put some revs temporarily to slightly cool down the engine. BTW, my buddy have solved his issue by replacing the old radiator with a brand new one and changing the coolant.&#xA;You may also need your visco-unit to be checked/replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13975" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T13:24:45.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24004" CreationDate="2015-12-30T13:56:32.593" Score="21" ViewCount="17581" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_float&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt; is hard to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/grok&quot;&gt;grok&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Valve float is an adverse condition which can occur at high engine speeds when the poppet valves in an internal combustion engine valvetrain do not properly follow the closure phase of the cam lobe profile. This reduces engine efficiency and performance and potentially increases engine emissions. There is also a significant risk of severe engine damage due to valve spring damage and/or pistons contacting the valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone translate this into something more understandable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagrams, videos and animations are a welcome bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T08:36:30.730" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T03:24:25.740" Title="What is valve float and how does it impact engines?" Tags="|engine-theory|valve|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24002" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:07:26.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most valves are opened by the cam lobes, and closed by springs. However, it takes time for the spring to 'unwind' and push the valve back. If the engine is going fast enough, this time is longer than the time it takes for the cam lobe to rotate from 'fully open' to 'fully closed', so the valve doesn't follow the cam - a gap appears momentarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the valve stays open slightly longer than it should do - as it simply cannot close fast enough. It also means that the valve is 'loose' for a moment (i.e. not pressed up against the lobe by the spring), allowing it to rotate and move around more freely than it should - increasing wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a youtube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - beware, flashing images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T14:07:26.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24002" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:38:26.473" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve float means the valve doesn't fully close at the proper time, because the return mechanism (usually a coil spring) isn't strong enough to close it. This usually happens at high RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can damage an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23041/interference-vs-non-interference-engines&quot;&gt;interference engine&lt;/a&gt; if the valves make contact with the top of the piston. This can bend the valve stem, or chip the edge of the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, while in valve float, crossflow can result in backfires and/or afterburning, and possibly unburnt fuel getting to the catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:48:57.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23990" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:53:18.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need Spark, Fuel, and Compression for an engine to run.  Since this engine was just reassembled, there is a lot to question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark - &#xA;&lt;br&gt;rotor position - beware of caps where the points are not &quot;straight through&quot;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;plug wires in the correct position &#xA;&lt;br&gt;timing - may need play with it a bit&#xA;&lt;br&gt;coil - ensure it is firing&#xA;&lt;br&gt;spark plug firing - use a jumper to connect the base of the plug to a unpainted part of the engine.  watch while someone cranks&#xA;&lt;br&gt;spark plug gap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel -&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Fuel Pressure - without a gauge, you can hit the Schrader valve to see if fuel squirts out.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;check if the plugs smell like fuel to ensure the injectors are firing&#xA;&lt;br&gt;you can try spraying starting fluid in the throttle body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressions - &#xA;&lt;br&gt;Test the compression on each cylinder.  should be at least 120psi&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If it is less, either the head gasket didn't seal, a valve is bent, the valves are adjusted too far, or you have a ring issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another couple points&#xA;&lt;br&gt;double, triple, quadruple test every single electrical connection and vacuum line&#xA;&lt;br&gt;did it run before you took it apart?  You mentioned the cam sensor, do you still have the old one you can try?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;grounds - are they all connected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T14:53:18.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23990" CreationDate="2015-12-30T14:53:43.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines need 4 things to run- spark (at the right time), air, fuel, and compression. A lot of things can conspire to deny some of those things. Don't just start shotgunning parts, that gets expensive real fast. Take a few moments to do diagnostics first. Once you find the category of problem, you've eliminated 3/4 of the possibilities, and tracking it down becomes easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means start with the compression check. While you're at it, you have the spark plugs out, check each one for spark as you crank the engine. Exactly how this is done depends on if your vehicle has plug wires or coil packs, but no matter the setup, it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the fuel injector(s) are spraying fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I wouldn't trust the AVERAGE chain shop with a head replacement, let alone diagnosing a problem like this. (Yes some chain shops are better than others, and some have special competencies, but most exist to do bread and butter maintenance). You're already a handy person, follow through and trust yourself that there are only so many things to check. Check the easy stuff first. There's plenty of help here, on Youtube and vehicle specific sites on how to make diagnostics easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T14:53:43.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24009" CreationDate="2015-12-30T17:10:22.583" Score="6" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in recall information from Europe, Asia, North and South America in order to enter the various information into a site wiki for the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I should post this question in meta or in here.  Regardless, if the question is answered here, it will be here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please post your answers with URL's and when there is an accumulation I will make a wiki page and include all of the valid links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T17:20:12.537" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T17:20:12.537" Title="Where can I check if my vehicle has a manufacturers recall for a defect?" Tags="|recall|manufacturer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24008" CreationDate="2015-12-30T17:18:30.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The United States government has placed authority for recall's and manufacturer interaction under the National Transportation and Safety Board (NTSB).  A sub of the NTSB is the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTS), which is where this website is located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link is for the United States Only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Search for Recalls Here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can search by&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;VIN&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer, Model and Year&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various regulations by localities make recalls individual by country.  I believe in Europe there is a central authority under the EU that now handles recalls but my research has failed me and I am unable to state that as a fact.  I'll let more intimate resources vet that out with there responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T17:18:30.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14707" CreationDate="2015-12-30T17:44:38.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a recall of your vehicle for the BCM (Body Control Module) which is a type of ECU.  This effects your traction control and cruise control as well as brakes according to this NTSB recall link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults;jsessionid=3KMJWGGCHc58PMJ3kp4nfG2gh80QYcHg4mncwwfjgH4Kt2jKmLyk!182953998?prodType=V&amp;amp;searchType=PROD&amp;amp;targetCategory=A&amp;amp;searchCriteria.model=G6&amp;amp;stats=208761%2C7%2C4%2C1512%2C89%2CG6&amp;amp;makeStats=&amp;amp;jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&amp;amp;searchCriteria.model_yr=2006&amp;amp;searchCriteria.make=PONTIAC&amp;amp;searchCriteria.prod_ids=208761&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recall Link for Your Vehicle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SUMMARY:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;General Motors LLC (GM) is recalling certain model year 2004-2012 Chevrolet Malibu vehicles manufactured May 16, 2003, through October 11, 2012, 2004-2007 Malibu Maxx vehicles manufactured June 25, 2003, through April 5, 2007, 2005-2010 Pontiac G6 vehicles manufactured May 26, 2004, through January 4, 2010, and 2007-2010 Saturn Aura vehicles manufactured April 24, 2006, through May 26, 2009. In the affected vehicles, increased resistance in the Body Control Module (BCM) connection may result in voltage fluctuations in the Brake Apply Sensor (BAS) circuit. These fluctuations can cause one or more of these conditions: the brake lights to illuminate without the brake pedal being pushed; the brake lights to not illuminate when the pedal is pushed; difficulty disengaging the cruise control; moving the gear shifter out of the 'PARK' position without pushing the brake; and disablement of crash avoidance features such as traction control, electronic stability control, and panic braking assist features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CONSEQUENCE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any of the above failure conditions increases the risk of a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REMEDY:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;GM will notify owners, and dealers will attach the wiring harness to the BCM with a spacer, apply dielectric lubricant to both the BCM and harness connector and the BAS and harness connector, and will relearn the brake pedal home position, free of charge. The manufacturer distributed an Interim letter to customers on July 14, 2014. The recall began on August 18, 2014. Owners may contact General Motors customer service at 1-800-222-1020 (Chevrolet), 1-800-762-2737 (Pontiac), 1-800-553-6000 (Saturn). GM's number for this recall is 13036.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTES:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T17:44:38.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24030" CreationDate="2015-12-30T17:56:57.297" Score="7" ViewCount="3970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unfamiliar with car shocks.  In motorcycles many rear shocks are charged with nitrogen which acts like a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen motorcycle shocks that I've rebuilt have the correct amount of nitrogen pressure within them, usually around 250 psi, yet their dampening is properties seem to have faded over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the internals of a shock it's hard for me to believe that the oil get's broken down.  There are only read valves and restricted oil passages that inhibit the flow of oil and there are no gears shearing the oil as a motorcycle transmission would tend to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under that premise, what is going to make dampening become an issue regarding oil breakdown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are car shocks charged with nitrogen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, what makes car shocks become spongy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T18:20:14.057" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T07:32:27.883" Title="What makes a worn car shock spongy and soft?" Tags="|maintenance|suspension|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24014" CreationDate="2015-12-30T17:58:53.690" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the correct forum for this question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some 40:1 mixed gas (for my snowblower) that is about 6 month old with no stabilizer added.  I haven't t tried it yet but should it be okay to use or should I start with new?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11810" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T14:20:02.180" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T14:20:02.180" Title="Snowblower - 2 cycle oil without stabilizer" Tags="|carburetor|gasoline|small-engine|two-stroke|snowblower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24013" CreationDate="2015-12-30T18:07:56.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could very well be ok.  I think some mitigating circumstances are these surround if the gasoline was extremely hot repeatedly.  Sitting outside in the sun every day would qualify.  The heat would break down your fuel a bit every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel smells bad and doesn't smell like gasoline, you could have bad gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did, you can try draining it and then refill and start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it became gummed up, which I doubt, you probably need to remove the carb and thoroughly clean it with carb cleaner and, hopefully, compressed air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's running a bit choppy and actually starts you can put some alcohol in it to get any water in the fuel to mix into the gas and/or you can put a bit of seafoam in the gastank that would clean out the internals of your carb and your combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, give it a try and if it doesn't work, come back with the symptoms for a more detailed response on some action items to get it up and adam again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T18:07:56.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T18:25:32.587" Score="5" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/116/12816&quot;&gt;Why does my A/C blow foul smelling air when it first turns on?&lt;/a&gt; suggest several fixes that depend on knowing where in the car they are located. I can't determine in any of my cars where the following items are.  E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the A/C drain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21076/12816&quot;&gt;Is the heater core before or after the evaporator&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without buying a service manual is there a way to determine these things for any particular car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T01:25:08.610" Title="How can I determine my HVAC layout?" Tags="|ac|hvac|diagram|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24015" CreationDate="2015-12-30T18:34:35.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an image to a cooling system for your reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each vehicle has it's own unique setup.  The differences in some cases are slight and in some very big.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the placement of your heater core.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNHPT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nNHPT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another image of a general layout for an AC system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WmZxR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WmZxR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Haynes service manual is about $20.  They are worth their weight in gold if that's all you have.  Factory service manuals are by far the best.  IMO, you would need a service manual of some type to truly be successful maintaining your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding any drain or additional detailed information about your car we would need to know the make/model/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T19:11:55.083" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T19:11:55.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T19:33:15.293" Score="5" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Explorer 2007 and I'm experiencing the car cutting out on me.  For example, when turning a corner with the engine revs low, the gas pedal wouldn't respond and then the car cut out. It started again okay and then cut out 200 meters later driving straight down the road.  Anyway, mechanic said it was the fuel pump and so got it changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 9 days no problem. Then tonight, slowing down and turning corner at low speed revs reduce and gas peddle unresponsive, car nearly cuts out and then jumps back into action. Then 50 meters later turning the corner again at low speed same thing happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that no problems at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what has been changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs were changed the day before the fuel pump as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filter was changed at the same time as the fuel pump. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator was changed only 4 months ago. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they plugged the computer into the car it showed up no faults at all. &#xA;Can anyone tell me what the problem may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any ideas or help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13981" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T16:00:34.150" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T16:00:34.150" Title="New fuel pump and spark plugs but gas pedal still not responding" Tags="|engine|ford|stall|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24018" CreationDate="2015-12-30T19:46:07.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four things come to mind, based on what you stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could be a short if it only happens when you turn one direction. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also could be a vacuum leak or a vacuum issue.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't rule out a bad fuel pump either, but it's just a slim chance, since it was just replaced.  I'd do a fuel pressure test on it if you can.  I found two cases where it was a fuel pump in both cases and one had just replaced the fuel pump. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/archive/index.php?t-251573.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engine cuts out when turning&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would add to this checking the distributor.  More than once I've seen and heard of a distributor preventing a car from starting or causing it to cut out.   I had an old Mazda 323 that would just cut out with no warning. Turned out to be the distributor and if I ran it on the highway at 70 mph + for about 30 minutes it would just die. Once it cooled off everything was fine or if I ran it below 60 mph. Really an odd one! Another mechanic friend told me there was a car on auction that three mechanics looked at it, but couldn't get it to start, so they walked off from it.  He bought it, swapped out the distributor and it fired right up!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote from that link about the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;open up your pump under the seat...I had the exact same issue after I&#xA;  instaledl a new in tank pump and had two problems causing this same&#xA;  symptom...one the top seal was leaking and two the feed line had&#xA;  split...while the tank was full the pressure was great enough to still&#xA;  push fuel though the damaged line, but when fuel sloshed on hard right&#xA;  turns, the supply cut off, once I straightened again the supply was&#xA;  good again...this problem also caused my fuel gauge to be&#xA;  inaccurate...oh yeah, my feel line was split in between the pump&#xA;  itself and the brass hard line in the cap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T21:04:01.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T21:04:01.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24022" CreationDate="2015-12-30T20:00:05.000" Score="7" ViewCount="7081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if one were to increase the line pressure sent to the clutch packs/bands on an A/T would that increase the torque capacity of said transmission? I figure it would because it would decrease amount of time needed for clutches to grab and thus reducing any possibility of slippage/heat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, would adding an ATF cooler also allow for the tranny to be pushed beyond its stock torque limit as it seems the only thing keeping it from handling anything is slippage which can be reduced by keeping the fluid cooler and engaging the clutches firmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T22:59:55.150" Title="Will increasing line pressure increase torque capacity?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|torque|atf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T21:27:03.450" Score="5" ViewCount="25341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm getting off the freeway, I press the clutch, shift out of 5th to neutral. At that moment my Civic DX would usually drop to about 1000 rpm at idle. For the past month it drops too low, somewhere between 200 to 400. It drops and the car feels like it's about to turn off but jumps back up to 600 rpm at idle. There's been a handful of times where it fully shuts off even while the car is moving.&#xA;When the car is cold it works great with no problems, idle is at 1000 rpm. After driving 10 minutes and the car is at normal temp, the problem starts occurring, idle then drops to 600 rpm. My car is stock other than CAI and exhaust. Manual transmission.&#xA;I've tried fuel injector cleaner, changed my spark plugs, cleaned my K&amp;amp;N air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13984" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T05:29:19.613" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T06:14:24.713" Title="RPM drop when coming to a stop in neutral, Civic 06" Tags="|civic|sparkplugs|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24020" CreationDate="2015-12-30T22:59:55.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically yes, practically it's not that easy. Line pressure is just one of the components that contribute to the torque capacity of the transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's not the speed of the application of a clutch but the holding strength once the clutch is applied that contributes to strength. In this respect higher line pressure will give higher torque capacity. There are limits though. First you can jack the pressure sky high but if the seals fail because they can't hold the pressure then your up a creek anyway. Next there is a limit to the strength of the clutches and clutch material. There could be lots of pressure but the clutch material fails then your up a creek. If there is lots of pressure and the clutch material holds but you rip the splines out of the clutch disks... With transmissions it's all bout knowing where the weak links of the transmission are and improving the weakest links without running into the next weak link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (not all) of the heat in the transmission comes from the torque converter. As you put more torque through a torque converter it will make more heat. The transmission fluid also works as coolant for other parts of the transmission. If your cooler can't reject the heat fast enough then the components that need cooled will overheat. In this respect the additional cooler will help but it has no direct effect otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T22:59:55.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23744" CreationDate="2015-12-31T01:28:35.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used a &quot;Karate Kick&quot; after watching it on an Eric the Car Guy video and yes it did work.  You get your leg underneath the car and do a quick kick to the bottom of the tire on the rubber.  Make sure the car is well supported and won't move.  I never get under the car unless I have at least 2 or 3 supports (jack stands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a really tough one I've used a small sledgehammer to hit the bottom of the rubber of the tire from underneath the car.  I've had 100% success with this one, but make sure you don't hit the rim!  I've never had any damage to the tire with this, but again use it at your own risk because a bad aim could hit the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T01:28:35.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2015-12-31T01:51:22.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the battery does produce hydrogen gas The corrosion is probably due to lead sulfate. The metals on the terminal post and connecting fitting are to close (by design) in galvanic similarities to be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13988" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T01:51:22.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:03:38.750" Score="3" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's Ford explorer does not start on the first try but when he try's again then it starts. On the first initial start try there is no clicking, no sound like turning over, no dash lights etc. But when he try's again, it starts right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13989" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T19:31:07.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:04:16.220" Title="2007 Ford Explorer - No Start, No sound, No power" Tags="|electrical|ford|starting|explorer|ignition-switch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:06:52.127" Score="4" ViewCount="3556" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I popped out in my partners car and noticed an awful burning/chemical smell whilst driving, this smell got worse if you turned on the AC (FAN BLOWER), so I got her to pull over and had her pop hood, nothing stood out from the unusual but I could detect that the smell was coming around where the battery lies, however I didn't want to sniff too much as I don't know if its toxic, the smell might be coming from under the battery I don't know, but definitly is stronger than anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smell is present while driving and for 10mins after the car engine has been turned off, its awful, rubber and chemically smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly due to the Christmas period I'm unable to take her rather old car (Nissan Micra 2000) to my local garage. She has just had a MOT and had some wielding done under neath the car but that was over a week ago and it worked fine up to now, shes due a new car in the new year and I'm hoping she can make do for a couple of more months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Attached is a image where the smell (red circle is where I think is coming from):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.bybe.net/files/mechanics/a-car-design.png&quot; alt=&quot;car design&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read online it could be a indication that the battery is going faulty, but the unusual thing is that it doesn't smell like rotten eggs as so many people describe. I'm hoping the weather is better tomorrow so I can take a better look but wondering if any wise sparks can give me a better indication what it could be....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smells of Rubber / Chemicals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comes from passenger side near battery/fuse box area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not smell of sulphur (rotten eggs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not smoke or at least visible smoke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downfall of rain today was heaviest its been in decades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13987" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T14:27:48.247" Title="Burning Rubber while driving and after" Tags="|battery|nissan|alternator|smell|chemicals|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24026" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:46:30.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as chemicals in that area you have coolant, which does not typically smell even when burnt, but check the level anyway, and your brake fluid which can smell quite strong when burnt. So check those two levels. Rain can wash oils and fluids off cooler parts of the engine compartment onto hotter ones causing them to burn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the battery with a multi-meter. It should read around 12.5 - 13 Volts when off and 13-13.5 when running. If its over when running the regulator/alternator is bad and your likely smelling it or wires burning. This usually fails totally pretty quickly though. A burning/venting battery will have a metallic smell and usually burns your nose. (Not severally but irritating and unhealthy all the same.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats the few things off the top of my head to start checking based on the location and weather conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T02:46:30.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23989" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:56:36.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is mostly a courtesy to customers to save driver settings that get lost when power is removed. Some cars can loose all their engine management setting requiring the car to &quot;re-learn&quot; how to run, resulting is poor fuel economy, poor performance, poor starting, and/or poor shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments, revolving code key fobs work on a time clock based algorithm to make sure the codes are synced between the fob and the car. The codes change with every press and at set intervals over time. These cars often have a relearning mode that allows the car and fob to sync again after power loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many devices are available to keep power available to the electronics while changing the battery. The most common method is to place a charger on the positive lead and a ground while the battery is removed. However this makes the installation more dangerous as sparks are more likely. Most newer vehicles make use of flash memory as its performance is on-par with older memory and it is not affected by the power loss. Some also make use of small builtin rechargeable batteries that maintain memory when power is lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T02:56:36.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23989" CreationDate="2015-12-31T06:40:29.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use this type tool. It plugs into the ODBII port. There are many memorized settings that can be lost. The most troublesome are radio security codes and luxury cars with driver preference settings, such as seat and steering wheel position. The preference settings are the worst, since these cannot be duplicated without bothering the owner. Sit with an irate owner and a scan tool for 20 minutes while you reset the preference settings one time and you will pay anything for a memory saver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PlQk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PlQk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T06:40:29.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2015-12-31T07:32:27.883" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shocks/struts can either come charged with nitrogen (gas shock) or conventional (without a charge). Both can wear out over time. &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/car-part-longevity/how-long-shocks-last.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shocks should be replaced&lt;/a&gt; around 50k miles under normal conditions. That really depends on how you drive your vehicle, though. If all of your driving is done on the freeways of Texas where the straights are longer than long, then you'll find your shocks will last you longer ... maybe even considerably longer. If, on the other hand, you drive in a downtown area where you are stop/go all the time, plus have plenty of potholes to worry about, those shocks are going to have a much shorter lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does a shock do? It converts the bouncing energy which happens when you are going over the bumps into heat energy which dissipates through the hydraulic fluid in the shocks. Due to this, there is only so much abuse the shock can take before it wears out. Not only does how the shock is used have an effect on the life expectancy, environmental factors can take a toll as well. If sand or salt is used in wintry conditions, these elements can get up on the shock and wear them out through abrasion or rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to know what kind of condition your shocks are in is to pay attention to them. How does the ride feel? Does your vehicle bounce up and down when you come to an abrupt stop? If so, your shocks may be worn out. There are two basic things you can do to see if there may be an issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your car into a parking, drive it at about 10mph, then slam on the brakes. If your front end continues to bob up and down after you come to a stop, your shocks (at least the front ones) are probably toast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get under your vehicle and look at the shocks. If you see any oil seeping from where the rod inserts into the shock, it's done. A fine sheen of oil on the rod (no drips) is okay, as this is normal (if it isn't lubricated, it will tear up the seals). You also want to look for dents in the shock casing, as this is a sign of abuse (could be caused by road debris). While you are under there, make sure you check all of the mounting hardware and rubber bushings associated with your shocks. Shocks require solid mounts in order to work correctly. If the bushings are worn out or the bolts are loose, this will degrade their performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other things which can happen if you ride on worn out shocks. Since the shock is no longer able to buffer the rebound/extension of the wheel travel, the car will bounce (given). Due to this, the tire will have a tendency to bounce up and down as you are going down the road. This wears out the tires by what is called &amp;quot;cupping&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;scalloping&amp;quot;. You'll see small, smooth, flat spots on your tires at regular intervals. When this happens, the tire will need to be replaced as well. Here is a list of some of the dangers due to riding on worn out shocks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced braking efficiency resulting in longer stopping distances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced efficiency of Anti-Lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Electronic Stability Control (ESP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased risk of skidding in the wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aquaplaning occurs at lower speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less control when cornering or caught in a cross wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased driver tiredness and reduced speed or response&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased wear of tyres and other suspension components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uneven/oscillating headlight level causing dazzle to on-coming drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased passenger discomfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased risk of 'snaking' when towing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tenneco.com/the_hidden_danger_of_worn_out_shock_absorbers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; gives an example of real world testing of the differences between good and worn out shocks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To highlight the danger of driving with worn shock absorbers, Tenneco Automotive - Monroe's parent company Ð has recently conducted a number of comparative tests between vehicles fitted with 50% worn shocks and 100% effective, Monroe Sensa-Trac with Safe-Tech shock absorbers. Having teamed up with TÜV, one of Europe's leading road safety institutes, the first tests showed that a multi-purpose vehicle (MPV) such as a Renault Espace with worn shocks can have a braking distance that's up to 4 metres longer than the same vehicle fitted with new shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second test featuring a new Volkswagen Beetle found that despite being fitted with the latest car safety systems such as Anti-Lock Braking (ABS) and Electronic Stability Control (EBS), with worn shocks the vehicle can have a braking distance of up to 6 metres longer than when fitted with new shocks. The final set of tests set out to demonstrate what effect ice and snow would have on a car's anti-lock braking and anti-skid systems, when combined with worn shocks. In the braking test, the results showed that a vehicle such as a Mercedes-Benz C250 Estate fitted with ABS but also with 50% worn shocks, had an emergency braking distance of 1.8 metres longer than the same vehicle fitted with 100% efficient shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same test conducted on a Peugeot 206 with ABS and 50% worn shocks, took an extra 1.2 metres to stop. The braking test results thereby prove that a car's ABS system does not function properly with worn out shocks. Finally, when comparing a car's acceleration on ice and snow, the tests found that a car such as the Mercedes-Benz C250 fitted with an ASR anti-skid system and 100% efficient shocks accelerated to a speed of 35.6 km/h (22.1 mph) in seven seconds, whereas the same car fitted with 50% worn shocks could only achieve 34.2 km/h (21.2 mph), a 16% improvement for the first vehicle. Furthermore, the time period of lost traction was 37% shorter with 100% efficient shocks compared to 50% worn components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This test confirms the importance to check that a car's shocks are in good condition, even when fitted with ASR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find that the basic technology which you are used to on your motorcycles is what's in use on cars. Also, because of heat buildup in the hydraulic oil, breakdown occurs due to this. Heat is the major component of shock failure (or when a shock gets worn out). Just like so many other things in the automotive world, shocks have a lifespan. The harder you beat on them, the sooner they die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this was mentioned already, but I thought I'd consolidate. There are six noticeable signs your shock absorbers need to be replaced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer stopping distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swerving &amp;amp; nose-dives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vibrations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car sliding &amp;amp; veering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocking &amp;amp; rattling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uneven tire wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T07:32:27.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24032" CreationDate="2015-12-31T12:17:22.103" Score="3" ViewCount="4020" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I don't know anything about cars. But my truck has been having a few problems. It starts up fine and then the idle is really weird, the RPM's surge. The motor keeps bogging down and when you try to accelerate it sputters. The acceleration is cutting out. We've recently replaced the exhaust manifold (the old one had a bunch of holes) and the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong with my truck? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13991" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T15:59:53.593" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T15:59:53.593" Title="Engine idle surging on startup &amp; sputters during acceleration" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|truck|s10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24031" CreationDate="2015-12-31T12:24:15.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is an split hose causing an unmetered air leak.  This is an cheap fix to look out for before spending money on expensive components.  Check the crank case ventilation hoses and the main intake hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T12:24:15.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19329" CreationDate="2015-12-31T13:37:37.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will create some additional wear but it's only a more severe version of what happens every time you start the engine. It's difficult to determine what effect it will have on the engine life as that might be terminated by something that's not as vulnerable to having poor lubrication for a short time, like the piston rings or valve guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never prefilled an oil filter when doing my own servicing on both bikes and cars but I'm lazy. There will still be some oil on the surfaces that are usually lubricated (despite the engine having been drained of oil) so the only surfaces that are vulnerable are those requiring pressure-fed lubrication, primarily the big end bearings. I have an old bike with an oil cooled engine with the nerve-shredding feature of producing a pronounced knocking noise (presumably a rod knock) for a few seconds when you start it after an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I suspect you know this anyway but absolutely do not rev the engine up straight after an oil change. I like to start the engine and let it idle for at least 10 seconds to minimise the stress on it while it purges the air out of the oilways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T13:37:37.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24031" CreationDate="2015-12-31T15:37:03.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you replaced the O2 sensor and exhaust manifold, your truck may need to relearn its fuel trims. Try resetting the computer by pulling the battery negative post terminal for about 1/2 hour. This will force the computer back to factor fuel trims and give it a chance to relearn what's going on now that it's not receiving bad information about the quality of the exhaust gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, the part of the engine which controls idle quality is called an Intake Air Control (IAC) valve. This part is hung off of the throttle body. It has a plunger which is strictly in or out, but allows the proper amount of air through when the throttle is closed to allow engine to idle at a normal idle speed. If the engine is surging upon startup and not settling down to the proper idle, a sticking IAC could be what the issue is. The IAC also assists with off idle acceleration, so this could doubly so be at issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T15:37:03.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T16:17:49.380" Score="4" ViewCount="2761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Bought a 1996 GMC Sonoma Oct. 2014. that winter when I was not getting heat I had the thermostat replaced which brought on a loud rhythmic clunking sound. Seems to be most noticeable when braking to a stop. Winter passed, the sound went away but with winter back again I had no heat. Had a new thermostat put in yesterday and the clunking is back but I do have heat again. Any thoughts? Mechanic said it could be a head gasket. That sounds expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13993" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T21:17:16.900" Title="Rhythmic clunking sound somehow connected to the thermostat I just had replaced" Tags="|noise|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16711" CreationDate="2015-12-31T17:37:06.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve/sensor is faulty. The IAC is a small piston that moves in/out and regulates how much air goes through it to control the idle speed. Your issue seems to be that the IAC is getting stuck in the open position (due to wear or it being dirty) and then working again once a full stop happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some throttle body cleaner and spray it in. If that doesn't fix it the part is pretty cheap. Like $20. You can replace it yourself. Its the one in the bottom. Remove two bolts and replace. That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFVtc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFVtc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;IAC location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T17:37:06.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24036" CreationDate="2015-12-31T18:14:40.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how changing your thermostat is a variable in this. This sounds more like an HVAC or blower motor issue. If the thermostat fixed it and you now have issues again during winter along with clunking, I would say it's probably a compressor or blower motor issue. Those can cause a clunking sound. Typically you can diagnose a problem with these sounds that are related to your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ticking = Leaves in your blower motor, valves (usually sounds consistent), and Motorized AC control modules (Which are typical for GMC).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clunking = Suspension especially during cold weather, rod knock (it usually sounds very consistent), motor mounts, and sometimes loose stuff under the hood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by isolating the exact position of this clunking. You'll probably have to have a friend help you. You need to determine if it's under the hood or inside the passenger area. &#xA;If it was a thermostat, it usually will break a hose or screw up your radiator. It will also overheat. This is because of the extreme pressure due to the thermostat not opening once it's at operating temperature. &#xA;This could possibly two different issues all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A head gasket has two very distinct &quot;give-aways&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it consumes alot of oil or blows blueish smoke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it blows white smoke, loses coolant and overheats. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the obvious ones. Bad compression, exhaust gas in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and misfires are more in depth things to think about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T18:14:40.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24041" CreationDate="2015-12-31T18:41:52.103" Score="5" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard much and recently watched a video about performing the heel-and-toe technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried some dummy actions, with my car shut off and in neutral but it feels too difficult to successfully place my foot on both the brake and gas pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my pedals--is the gas pedal sufficient length to execute this?  Or is the pedal typically longer to enable the heel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjVb1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GjVb1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Car Pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T20:36:23.540" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T20:41:40.957" Title="Is my gas pedal long enough to enable heel-and-toe shifting?" Tags="|shifting|braking|pedals|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24039" CreationDate="2015-12-31T18:55:45.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the gas pedal is wider on manual cars to make heal toe easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heal toe shifting is not really be best name.  You use the ball of your foot under your big toe on the edge of the brake pedal and the edge of your foot near your pinky on the gas.  Remember, when you do this your brake pedal will be pressed down a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T18:55:45.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24039" CreationDate="2015-12-31T19:21:37.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Heel and Toe Pedals&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gq8sJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gq8sJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think to truly heel-and-toe drive well, you need to have a setup similar to the one in the image.  Something that's designed to do it proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some that are super cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to consider how much it will effect your normal driving though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup will prevent you from trying to bend your leg all weird to actually do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my gas pedal long enough to enable heel-and-toe shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, but your brake pedal is to far to the left and there is very little pedal overlap.  It's not the length of your gas pedal, it it's overlapping width and placement in relation to your brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T20:41:40.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24054" CreationDate="2015-12-31T20:20:17.410" Score="6" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the spark plugs of my 2006 Prius, but the deep well 5/8 socket attached to a 2 in extender just turns loose, as if it does not fit in the top of the spark plug. I tried also 3/4 and 13/16 but those don't even fit in the spark plug well. I tried in another spark plug to the same result. What could I do to remove the spark plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T06:40:48.307" Title="Socket wrench turns loose on top of spark plug" Tags="|maintenance|sparkplugs|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2015-12-31T20:25:39.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After removing the seat and looking underneath the carpet, there was no evidence of leaking from the heater core. It was rain water, about three gallons of it. Where did this all come from? Nothing from the doors, windows, or underneath the frame of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this water came from two sheets of metal joining behind the back of passenger brake light. There was a small, small gap between the metal which allowed nearly all the drain water that flowed to the back of the car to leak inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUiLv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUiLv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake light leak&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7k9EI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7k9EI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a closer look&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From then on I was convinced water would overflow and pour from the back to the front of the car from this single leak. I then had to remove the bumper frame to apply this water proof coating over the crack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQbWq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQbWq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;coating&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing has entered the car ever since but in case water did make inside I removed a plug from each side of the trunk where the water would build up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9M8L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9M8L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;removed drain plugs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sneaky way to leak into the car it surely was :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13676" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:51:07.093" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T00:51:07.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23886" CreationDate="2015-12-31T20:33:55.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering wheel audio control adapter &lt;em&gt;compatible&lt;/em&gt; with the head unit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/g_118900/Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Adapters.html&quot;&gt;Example for your truck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dash kit. It allows for the radio to fit in the non-standard opening.&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/g_112200/Vehicle-specific-Mounting-Kits.html?tp=3121&quot;&gt;Link to kits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Factory system adapter. Allows you to plug in the head unit harness into the factory one and keep the current speaker system in place without splicing in. It also allows for chimes to be heard through the audio system as with the factory unit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/g_751/Factory-System-Adapters.html&quot;&gt;Link to adapters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are kits that include the steering wheel controls and the factory system adapter in one bundle. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541RP5GM11/PAC-RP5-GM11-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=3486&quot;&gt;Link to bundle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you are looking for the right plug-in adapters to keep things working as factory equipment. Your vehicle has full aftermarket support and it makes it simpler. All of the functionality can be maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website linked to is Crutchfield. They are a good source for the parts. I've been buying from them since the 90s (phew!). Their support is top notch. Much better than what this answer can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random tips from past experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some small zip ties. They are handy to keep things secure with the new install.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have some good 3M electrical tape available in case you break a cable. It happens. Betters safe than sorry. Don't cheap out on the tape!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't solder unless you have to. This is a bit out there, but I prefer to only solder those connections I know for sure will be permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a boombox playing in the background to keep you entertained. This is boring and sometimes back breaking work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a small towel to dry your sweat. Trust me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a fan if in a warm location. You can't have the trucks A/C running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will take no less than four hours. Plan accordingly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't rush it with the dash parts. They break easily and can turn a simple job into a multiple-trips-to-the-junkyard type of thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Start here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWm7gceAsGo&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWm7gceAsGo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T20:33:55.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22848" CreationDate="2015-12-31T21:09:12.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If pumping the pedal until it's hard doesn't permanently fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you say the pedal went to the floor and you heard a hissing, my guess is the master cylinder is bad or you have a brake fluid leak. The hissing is likely because the brake booster is being pushed farther than it was ever expected to (pedal to the floor) so the rubber membrane inside is slipping temporarily and causing a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, this is nothing to mess around with. Don't drive on it; get it addressed as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13994" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T21:09:12.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24036" CreationDate="2015-12-31T21:17:16.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that you have got heat, I would take a guess that your heating system in now trying to regulate the heat by controlling some of the air control flaps inside the HVAC unit.  Maybe one of the motor mechanisms is jammed which is now causing the clucking noise.  Do you think the noise is coming from behind the dash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T21:17:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22851" CreationDate="2015-12-31T21:24:10.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the throttle body becomes a little worn, it is possible for the butterfly valve to close too much for a steady idle engine speed.  The ECM then tries to compensate by opening the IAC more than it is designed to under normal conditions. This can cause stalling and unsteady idle.  There will be a screw on the throttle body that allows adjustment of minimum throttle.  Try adjusting the screw to open the butterfly valve a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T21:24:10.870" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2015-12-31T22:36:08.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the throttle body becomes a little worn, it is possible for the butterfly valve to close too much for a steady idle engine speed. The ECM then tries to compensate by opening the IAC more than it is designed to under normal conditions. This can cause stalling and unsteady idle. There will be a screw on the throttle body that allows adjustment of minimum throttle. Try adjusting the screw to open the butterfly valve a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T22:36:08.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:08:29.570" Score="7" ViewCount="3334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 96' Ford E350 Club Wagon. When I press the brake pedal the brakes work great however the pedal does not return fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bleed the brakes, exchanged all the old fluid, checked the few rubber brake lines it has, replaced the brake booster, adjusted the booster arm length both in and out and nothing has changed it! it has no return spring on the pedal nor a place to mount one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to replace the master cylinder but would like some insight before going through with all that work and extra $. When removed, the master cylinder does extend all the way back out. When I remove the vacuum line from the booster the pedal will return all the way back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let me know if any more info would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T23:21:38.240" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T23:10:59.877" Title="1996 Ford E350 Club Wagon - Brake pedal will not return" Tags="|ford|brakes|brake-booster|brake-pedal|e350|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24050" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:31:58.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the brakes stay on, it could be the brake booster is assisting when it shouldn't.  To verify this, you could disconnect the vacuum pipe that goes to the booster to see if the pedal the raises.  You will need to cover the end of the pipe while you do this to stop anything being sucked into the pipe.  Another thing that could identify the booster being at fault would be if the pedal returns to normal position after the engine has been turned off for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T23:31:58.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24050" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:35:56.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Paulster2 is on the right track. If you cannot find the spring possibly it broke, fell off and is gone. Might be worth a trip to the Ford store have a partsman look up all the brake linkage parts, there will be a picture showing where the spring goes, what it looks like, etc. At least if there is no spring required, the partsman would be able to verify that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T23:35:56.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24042" CreationDate="2016-01-01T06:40:48.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dedicated spark plug socket is the way to go here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular deep well sockets don't work because the spark plug electrode will interfere with the square drive end. This is also why an extension will not help; there is nowhere for the electrode to be accommodated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T06:40:48.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22865" CreationDate="2016-01-01T13:07:32.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the codes, I'd say &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23666/675&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;race fever&lt;/em&gt;'s spot on&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0300&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0116&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0116&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Range/Performance Problem&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0304&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0304&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Cylinder #4 Misfire Detected&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0174&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0174&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - &lt;em&gt;System Too Lean (Bank 2)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Explanation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe what's happening is the coolant temperature sensor is giving no signal or a signal that's out of the normal range (P0116).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under such circumstances, it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU assumes a default temperature which is an under-prediction when the temperature is warm (engine running rich, smell of fuel in the exhaust) and an over-prediction when the temperature is cold (resulting in the misfire codes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The fix&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the ECT sensor is a common issue on this Mustang. Before you buy a new sensor, make sure that the sensor signal is getting picked up by the ECU using a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you obtain no signal or a constant temperature readout via a scan tool while the engine is warming up, this would indicate a loose connection or bad sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T21:16:25.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24062" CreationDate="2016-01-01T14:44:18.717" Score="5" ViewCount="5732" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 CDTi 2011's thermostat is stuck open so I am going to have to buy a new thermostat, the problem is I have no experience with car maintenance or repair, I haven't been able to find anything on-line so far either as it's not a very common model of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know where abouts the thermostat is located also if anyone has experience doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13339" LastEditorUserId="13339" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T14:47:48.787" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T10:00:10.710" Title="Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 CDTI Thermostat replacement?" Tags="|vauxhall|thermostat|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9758" CreationDate="2016-01-01T14:56:39.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That exact thing happened to me before, I replaced the brake line, the master cylinder, bleed the brake 4 times and the feeling was spongy still, what happened was that &lt;strong&gt;the brake pad material was not good (the pads where aftermarket)&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Once I put the originals the brake felt like it always was before, firm and not spongy at all&lt;/strong&gt;. This is something the I have seen in many occasions, the originals brake pads are more hard on the material, aftermarkets are more soft(unless they are high performance brake pads like Brembo for example) that is why the spongy feeling, even when they feel hard to the touch the force you apply on braking moment is 100 time stronger. Try what I`m telling you, that happened to me a while ago, &lt;strong&gt;don't believe that because they are an authorized Honda Shop or what ever, they put the OEM part, believe me that happened to me.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T14:56:39.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24056" CreationDate="2016-01-01T16:49:18.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermostart can be situated any where in the water line of the engine either at the top or at the base of the block where the hose meet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T16:49:18.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23052" CreationDate="2016-01-01T16:53:17.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could not get any junkyard to reply to my inquiry. I contacted the parts department directly at the dealership and they were able to order it at a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T16:53:17.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24015" CreationDate="2016-01-01T16:56:13.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smelling A/C system can be caused by these things: dirty A/C filter; clogged evaporator; and if your A/C vent is not set on recycle mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T01:25:08.610" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T01:25:08.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2016-01-01T18:19:07.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may already have looked at this since it sounds like you've been under the hood quite a bit, but take a good look at your air intake hose too to make sure it's not cracked/leaking. I had a very similar problem on my 02 Protege a while back and that was the cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that looks fine, can you take it to Autozone and have them check for engine trouble codes? If you have a cylinder misfire code it could also be a bad ignition coil or spark plug wire (since you already replaced the plugs and it didn't go away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12612" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T18:19:07.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24056" CreationDate="2016-01-01T19:21:04.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest investing in a Haynes Manual for this car.  One minor repair like this that you can do yourself will pay for it in savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part you are looking for, it's the thermostat housing, that I found on eBay.  If I recall, it was for the 2011.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAC63.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAC63.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video on how to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p25MiNwz-_s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;change it a thermostat&lt;/a&gt; for a Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 (2004).  Now it may be in a slightly different location, but usually changing a thermostat won't change that much over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can find one for your exact year, I will include it, but this is the best I could find for now.  I couldn't find the exact location in a picture anywhere.  Due to the lack of information, it may be a bit of work to actually to get to the housing itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:28:10.227" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:28:10.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21759" CreationDate="2016-01-01T20:43:28.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two separate idle settings on your carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is for the choke idle and the other is for your off-choke idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start your vehicle in the morning the idle setting will be fixed on the last termperature of your vehicle, so if you drove home the night before and the engine was at full operating temperature you would have that idle setting in the morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start the car the idle would be set lower and it would run a bit rougher due to a lean condition based upon the viscosity of the fuel and other variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you blip your throttle, the fast idle is able to get passed a detente in the variable idle and notch up to the full choked idle of the vehicle, hence it runs better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you can do.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blip your throttle when you get in the vehicle in the morning to reset your idle.  THEN start it.  The idle setting should be set for a choke setting and the idle should be normal.  Once the engine warms up you can blip your throttle again to notch down the idle setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T20:43:28.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18315" CreationDate="2016-01-01T21:54:39.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of those parts are hard to do for a beginner. Making CF look good takes a lot of practice. Still, I'll try to steer you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use honeycomb as the filler material. Cardboard gets messy quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How many layers should I build up and will I need a filler material?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cosmetic parts:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 X layer carbon fiber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 X layer fiberglass&#xA;No filler required. Fiberglass is used to reduce cost of part. You can do two layers of carbon fiber, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Functional parts&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I would not do this to any parts that are important to the structural integrity of the vehicle. Keep in mind that carbon fiber shatters. Parts of it might injure you in case of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 X layer carbon fiber&#xA;1 X layer honeycomb&#xA;1 X layer fiberglass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything thicker and fit will be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do you then bind those parts together to assemble the final result?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Epoxy. Less is more here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Include small fasteners in the parts themselves to then use to keep things together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start toying with fiberglass way before you touch the carbon fiber. This will teach you how to use the tools and how to deal with the molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber requires patience and planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set aside twice as much time as you'd think it would take to do a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do one part at a time. Start with the easier ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting carbon fiber to look right is super hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shop before you build. I bet its cheaper to &lt;em&gt;buy&lt;/em&gt; the parts already made. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:00:23.393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:00:23.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24066" CreationDate="2016-01-01T22:12:39.620" Score="7" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Mustang GT, I had the battery tested and it will take a jump and start up so naturally I am thinking the alternator is bad.  I take the alternator out and have it tested 3 times and it passes all 3 tests.  At this point I take out all fuses underneath the hood to make sure there are no bad or blown fuses all look to be in working order.  Terminals have been cleaned and new terminal connection have been installed recently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't driven the car in around 4 months so I thought the battery might be bad, but what has me stumped is the battery will take a jump and run for about 30 minutes then I can't start it again, like the alternator is not charging it but as stated above the alternator passed the test.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I should look at before admitting defeat and taking it to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***UPDATE&#xA;I had the battery on the trickle charger for around 24 hours now, but it doesn't event half enough power to work the locks, I am thinking a new battery is in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14005" LastEditorUserId="14005" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T15:03:33.820" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T15:57:53.130" Title="Battery and Alternator Pass Test - 2003 Mustang GT" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|alternator|mustang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24065" CreationDate="2016-01-01T22:21:56.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description sounds very much like the battery is totally dead and needs replacing.  When you jump lead a car, you are replacing the installed battery with the one from the other car for starting the engine.  Once the engine is running, all the cars electrical functions will be running from electricity generated by the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, a healthy battery will charge from the alternator and will be ready to start the engine next time.  Your battery sounds like it is not accepting a charge and is therefor useless and needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that confuses this is that you say you had the battery tested.  How long ago did you test it and how was the test performed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery is truly in good order, then can you tell me where you connected the jump leads to on you car, did you connect them directly to the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:48:32.457" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:48:32.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22390" CreationDate="2016-01-01T22:50:41.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help if you could give even more details, as this could be lots of things.  Are you getting a CEL and code(s)?  This would seem to be throwing a code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five things I would check on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CPS (Cam Position Sensor)  I had rough idle on my van when this went out, but it threw a code so it was easy to find and fix.  Could be the same issue here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECU&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IAC (Idle Air Control)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible a fuel restriction from an old fuel filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the high pitched ringing noise, could it be a coolant fan or one of the belts?  Although you have problems keeping it running, see if you can get someone to start the car and then you try to listen for the sound from under the hood.  I use an inexpensive stethoscope from Harbor Freight on these kinds of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T22:56:00.837" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:56:00.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16706" CreationDate="2016-01-01T23:13:20.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visual Inspection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CABLE HOUSING/SHEATH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow the brake cable back to the rear of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not sure if it goes to the right or left rear.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In so doing you can see if it has any damage.  A bad kink in it, torn cable housing (if you can see the actual cable in the housing due to damage....that's not good) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parking Break Mechanism&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable will lead to that. You've probably seen it by now.  The arm the cable is typically attached to has a worm screw mechanism to push a caliper piston in when it is actuated.  So the transfer of power is through the housing and on the  cable to the arm, though the worm screw, through the piston to the pad and against the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the point where the housing is terminated on the arm there is a clip that can be removed.  This will allow you to disconnect the cable.  You will want to inspect it and lube it.  Ensure the cable moves freely in the housing, if bound, replace it.  &lt;strong&gt;Lube the cable with a graphite lubricant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of Passat Caliper with Parking Brake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRIA7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRIA7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the cable that's giving you the issue then now your leaning to the caliper mechanism that has an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to remove your wheel and the caliper in order to inspect it and verify that it is operating properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's your issue in particular you can post a question regarding it specifically.  It get's a little too involved breaking down the various things necessary for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, this should give you a path to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parts Explosion of a Similar Caliper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put this in here to simply give you an idea of what the system looks like.  This is not for your car specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKc4n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKc4n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T23:13:20.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-01T23:13:40.180" Score="11" ViewCount="4043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got in a minor accident the other day.  Cosmetically my hood was a little crumpled and the grill cracked.  Functionally the only thing not working is the wireless lock beeping feature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I could attempt to fix myself?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated, it's a 2007 Hyundai Elantra.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14006" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T23:51:00.323" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T15:51:51.500" Title="2007 Hyundai Elantra - Car beep when I lock the door no longer working" Tags="|electrical|hyundai|key|elantra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2016-01-01T23:31:40.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could this have something to do with the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  IMO this is a clutch issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your clutch drags and does not completely disengage there is a slight load on the primary shaft of your transmission.  This is a sequential transmission.  When you put it into gear under these circumstances you may hear it loudly band in and feel it throughout the bike.  As well, changing gears, if not done perfectly, may be a bit difficult.  If you can speed shift without the clutch then you probably wouldn't notice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's cold, it can accentuate the issue due to the viscosity of the oil and the higher amount of friction as a result in your clutch basket.  So cold CAN make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Fix&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the locking adjustment and get a little bit of play in the clutch handle.  Move your handlebars all the way to the right and all the way to left while doing this.  Ensure moving the handlebars does not take up all the slack and begin to disengage the clutch as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust approximately an eighth of an inch of play into the clutch handle.  Give it a try now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqdST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqdST.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T23:31:40.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:04:06.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A free flow exhaust requires more fuel to the engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baffles created back pressure in your exhaust system that restricted the flow of the exhaust gasses.  When you removed the baffles it allowed the engine to 'breath' easier due to the lack of restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Restriction in exhaust systems are designed for several things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to restrict gasses flowing into and out of the engine.  This means that you can  use less fuel to operate the vehicle and allows the manufacturer to advertise a better fuel economy for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Better for the environment.  In order to meet EPA regulations and such.  Restricted exhausts allow for less exhaust gasses and....better for the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Better bottom end power.  At the lower end of your RPM range you will have more power which makes the vehicle more user friendly driving in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free flowing exhaust allows more gasses to pass through the engine and thereby requires more fuel to enter the engine to be burned.  The condition you are experiencing is a lean condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drill out the air screws at the tops of your carburator CV cover closest to the head.  They are aluminum.  Be careful, your drill bit will go right through them and the aluminum plug over the air screws might just come off in the bit.  That's ok, just don't penetrate to deep, you will hit a brass air screw if you do and drive it into your carburetor breaking off the the pin at the end of it.  Once you have access after removing the aluminum plug blow out the aluminum shavings.  Turn the air screw down all the way and turn it out 1.5 times as a starting point.  Turning it out makes the pilot/idle circuit operate leaner, more  air for more turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may resolve your issue but not.  It will make your lower RPM's richer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For higher RPM you will need to order the next size up main jet and a jet needle that has notches at the top.  The jet needle goes into your throttle.  The jet needle rests at the bottom of your CV piston valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will raise and lower the needle by changing the clip position on the jet needle.  If you want to make it richer, drop the clip to a lower notch. If you want to make the engine run leaner, raise the clip to another slot to drop the needle down lower into the main jet stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure will allow you to tune the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K&amp;amp;N makes a jet kit for your bike.  Jet kits are typically applied to carbs after a free flowing aftermarket pipe is installed to enrich the system.  In your case, it's just a modified stock exhaust turned into a free flowing system.  It should work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CV Carburetor Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3m7e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3m7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notched Jet Needle Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWMOo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWMOo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Screw Plug&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvABX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvABX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T16:58:47.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T16:58:47.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24069" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:49:11.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems a horn was damaged. Some cars use the vehicle's horn to &quot;beep&quot; as a response. Others use a separate horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pop the hood and look in the front grille area. Use the diagram below to guide you. Do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the horn connector. Is it fully connected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the horn connector broken?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the horn itself broken? A smashed horn might still work at higher frequencies but might not beep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the wiring leading to the horn look smashed up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest probability here is that the horn was partly damaged. You can buy a good used one &lt;strong&gt;(no need for a new horn)&lt;/strong&gt; at the local junkyard. Too lazy? Order it on ebay. Don't pay more than $25 for an used horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the connector is broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local Hyundai parts store (or dealership, but as a last case scenario) and order the horn connector or pigtail. Sometimes they sell the connector and sometimes they sell the pigtail. Either is a simple job that you can complete with common tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if neither of those is broken?&#xA;I would take the car in for a post-accident checkup. You never know what damage might have occurred until then. Sadly, this is one of those issues that mimics Schrodinger's dilemma with his cat: You don't know if it was the horn itself until you replace it (or test with another known good working horn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50JFJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50JFJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2007 Hyundai Elantra horn location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:49:11.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:49:35.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to skip the obvious I'll just say that you will want all of the standard tools.  Sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think there are some of the common tools that you may want to a little better than average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hex keys or Allen wrenches.  Get them with handles on them.  If you have any kind of bodywork, you'll need to take it off regularly.  Most manufacturers use Allen heads.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2WnHe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2WnHe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've owned lots of Honda's and Suzuki's.  They have a common them as do most Kawasaki and Yamaha models.  Most of the bolts are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.&#xA;Get purpose tools for a few of those sizes.  For instance.  I didn't buy a set of these years ago, I just got 8, 10 and 12mm.  They proved to be a bit handier user certain circumstances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMFhi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMFhi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spanner wrench to tighten your steering head nuts.  As a part of maintenance you will want to ensure you steering head doesn't have any play, this wrench works on special spanner nuts.  As well you uses these to adjust spring preload on most modern rear shocks. Find the right sizes for your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zc8g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zc8g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to change your own chains you will need a chain press to compress the links together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17gP2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17gP2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have cables on your bike you will want to be able to lubricate them without getting the lubricant everywhere.  you can get one of these.  Just Google &quot;motorcycle cable lubricant tool&quot;  I don't know the name of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BN4um.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BN4um.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike Stand.  It can make all the difference.  There's nothing like working on the left side of a motorcycle while it's on a kickstand.  Their typically on the left.  This would allow you to change a rear wheel.  There are many types of stands.  I used to use smaller pit stands for the front and the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qm9A5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qm9A5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go deeper, if you want.  There will be an assortment of special tools for you bike to pull a rotor or line up your engine in your frame.  It's really endless.  There are special tools to remove shims from heads or valve guides.  These here are some simple and important tools to add to your kit.  If I think of a few more I'll add as an edit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T03:38:54.797" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:38:54.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:51:13.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle Maintenance Tasks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tasks occur differently based upon the requirements of each manufacturer, find out what the intervals are for particular make/model/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cable lubrication - A graphite based lubricant, no oil based lubricants as they tend to have the hydrocarbons evaporate under heat and leave a sticky gummy feel to the cable and it's operation.  Clutch cable, throttle cable, rear brake cable if it has one&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate Kickstand - Oil based OK&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Adjustment - Check your valve clearance with a feeler gauge and remediate as necessary.  If you have a shim and bucket valve train you need the appropriate sized shims to perform this task.  If you have rocker arms you will adjust clearance with a pin and lock nut.  Depending on whether you have a paper or rubber valve cover gasket you may need to procure one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain Lubrication and Tension adjustment - Most motorcycles have similar mechanisms for pulling the rear wheel back and markers to align and adjust the rear wheel.  This is a regular event and chain throw should typically be between 1&quot; and 1.5&quot; inches.  Sorry for my stone age measurement reference but hey, I live in the States so this form of measurement is better than the entire rest of the world.  If you have an O-ring chain, just lubricate it.  Cleaning them with kerosene or any other obscene petrochemical will penetrate the O-ring seal and get inside of the chain and liquefy the grease inside.  Purchase a specialized cleaner for O-ring chains, it's worth it.  If it's a non-O-ring chain, clean it with whattever you want,  You can scrub it with a wire brush too.  Be sure you use compressed air or let it sit and get hot in the sun to evaporate whattever horrible product your using that's destroying our planet.  Check the chain for kinking and or any grinding feeling.  Move it around, don't be shy.  If it's grinding, that's probably particular matter the earth is kicking up disable your vehicle.  If it's grinding now it will accelerate wear.  DO NOT USE SOLVENTS, THEY WILL DESTROY O-RINGS.  Once your cleaning product is completely gone, use a special chain lubricant.  It will stick better to the chain.  Oil will just fling off and get everywhere, possibly even on your tire.  Lube it up good.  It likes it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Pressure/Tire wear/Tire damage - Check it and remediate.  Consult the website of the tire manufacturer to determine service limits of your tires.  Replace as necessary.  Check for damage, cuts, knurls, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the Spark Plugs - Goto your local MC shop and request the appropriate plug for you bike.  You don't need anything fancy, just the OEM replacement.  Before you remove the plugs make sure there is no debris in the plug hole, when you remove the plug the debris will fall in and well, that will suck.  We don't want to suck so we will use compressed air to assist the debris is getting gone.  Make the debris go away in the plug hole.  THEN remove the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - Check your pads, if the visible vertical groove cannot be seen, replace them.  Be careful, when you push the piston in on the caliper it will displace fluid in the reservoir on your handlebar for the fronts and the side for the rear.  You can use an old lint free towel to absorb some of the fluid before you depress the caliper pucks so it doesn't get on your gas tank or any other painted component.  Brake fluid eats paint.  Brake fluid is also water miscible so keep a bottle of water handy in case you get brake fluid on your bike.  Just splash water on it, lots of it and rub it away.  Be sure to validate the type of brake fluid you need.  Probably DOT 3 or 4.  Check your brake discs for grooves and/or bluing.  If they have a rainbow bluish hue to them they are glazed.  I've taken sandpaper and extended the life of discs.  600 grit.  I was broke kid when I did that, you should probably replace.  MC discs or too thin the resurface and the machine cutting bit will chatter across the disc and destroy it more.  Don't waste your time on that.  Throw it away and buy new.  Don't buy used.  It seems every unethical freak on the planet is selling his destroyed brake discs after replacement, they are consistently NOT GOOD.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery - Check the level of water.  Use distilled if you need to top it off.  No minerals in distilled.  If you use tap water.  Just throw your battery away.  It'll crap out soon enough.  Check your vent hose, two grooves where it joins the battery are apart of the backup venting. If the bottom of the hose, close to the ground, get's melted together from the exhaust pipe or some other inane incident.  Make sure the bottom of the vent isn't clogged with road grime or asphalt buildup..tar..or whattever.  If it, cut the end off.  Fixed.  Test the battery with a multi-meter, it should be 12.6 volts.  If you topped it off with distilled, you may want to run it for a few miles or charge it for a bit.  After you charge it, start it, drive it, stop it, then test.  You want to take the surface charge off it after the removal of the battery tender.  If it's not 12.6 volts, give it back to the planet through an appropriate recycling location because we care and our responsible members of humanity.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lights - Test your high and low beam with the bike running.  Test the turn signals, tail light and brake light.  You SHOULD test your brake light, front and rear brake, every single time you get on it and start because you have self esteem and care about your family and yourself.  Replace any light bulbs as necessary and never ride it with a low or high beam out or tail/brake light out.  We don't do that because we always look out for number one.  Replace bulbs as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolt Check - Go around the entire bike and ensure that all essential and safety related bolts, nuts and screws are properly torqued down.  You wouldn't want a wheel to fall off and get yourself killed.  Use locktite or a similar threadlocker all over the place especially if you have twin or single cylinder.  Bikes rattle themselves apart.  Check everything.  BE ANAL.  Lock it down.  Check, double check.  Your safety is paramount and you are a beautiful slave to the planet.  We need you to keep the production numbers up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil Change - Change the filter every other oil change.  use the recommended oil.  Look at the magnet on your drainbolt after your drain the case.  Does it have metal shavings on it.  Why?  Figure it out.  Usually you will have something and usually it's of no consequence but if you have a chunky gritty mess you will need to do some thinking and research.  BE SURE you put that drainbolt in and use a torque wrench to tighten it down.  I used to work in a shop and in my first year we had 8 customers that lost drainbolts after friggin shop did maintenance.  Imagine that.  Granted, the shop was a crap show, they hired me as teenager, and that my friend was dumb. Why?  Because I was teenager.  Luckily I never crapped on anyone but c'mon...it seems ridiculous but that is one that could really kill you when you hit the rear brake on a panic stop and that rear wheel is covered in oil and starts to come around on you.....exhale.  Seriously...be mindful, it's easy to get disorganized and lose track of where you are in the project and what you were/are/going to do.  Always double check.  Always double check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air Filter - Clean it, replace it, inspect it.  Get the crap out of it.  Make sure any debris that comes off doesn't fall in the airbox.  If some does, get a vacuum and get the debris gone.  It must go away.  You know why.  If you have a foam air filter, wash it with warm soapy water.  If you have a paper one, you can bang it out and blow it with compressed air but it will only last so long.  At some point you will need to toss it.  Oil the air filter (paper or foam) as stated by the manufacture.  Most paper filters do not get oil.  Look in your airbox.  Do you have a bunch of oil in there.  If you do, you probably have a PVC issue and are getting the result of too much blow by on your rings maybe.  If you've got a grip of oil in the airbox you have problems.  You will always have a little film though.  Spray some horrible hydrocarbon crap on a rag and wipe it down or use some earth friendly soapy thing and moisten a towel with it to wipe it out.  Check your oil drain hose.  It has an X on the end cut into it so it can drain oil.  Is it full of oil?  Why.  Is the reed valve on your valve cover for you PVC crapping on you, it might be.  Pull it out and inspect it.  Clean it.  Do the reeds snap shut?  If not, R&amp;amp;R.  That's fancy for Remove and Replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suspension.  Check your fork seals, if you have any oil coming out, you need to replace them.  That simple. Dry good, wet bad.  If it's dry, then the level hasn't changed in the fork so you don't need to pop the top of the fork to measure it unless it feels super springy because the last guy that touched it jammed you up and did crap work.  This one is up to you.  Springy, pop it and measure.  Your manual will tell you how deep.  Rear shock, same....wet is bad, dry is good.  If your rear is wet, you will need to have the shop rebuild it if it's OEM because you don't have a nitrogen charger.  Watch a youtube video on suspension adjustment and properly setup your dampening for rebound and compression.  As well, adjust your springs per the youtube.  You will know the credible video when you see it.  The guy won't slobbering on himself and cursing at his wife while drunkenly holds a jiggling cam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame - Visually inspect for cracks.  key locations...steering head, swing arm mount.  That's where all the magic forces are and frames to tend to fail in those locations if there going to.  That isn't to say you shouldn't look everywhere.  If you have a painted frame look for paint that is separating from the frame and for cracks in the paint.  Tell tale signs that something is amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Filter - Inspect and change.  If you use the ethanol because your country hates poor people eating corn you should probably change it pretty regular.  Ethanol is the beast and it makes everything fail.  Your fuel filter might not be an inline filter, it might be in your gas tank and apart of your fuel pump.  It's not that bad, read the directions in your hand OEM Shop Manual (not Haynes) and get to it and clean it.  If it's an inline, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor - This get's tricky.  Too much information for you already and my fingers are jammed up.  Adjust the air and fuel screw as necessary or not at all.  It's going to be your judgement and no amount typing is going to effect it.  If you have two carbs then you will need to get vacuum gauges and synchronize the carbs.  Never synch carbs before valve adjustment.  Only after.  Check vacuum lines and make sure the rubber and nice and pliable.  If it's heat baked and hard, toss it and replace it.  Or R&amp;amp;R, if you will.  No debate.  Not worth it, too cheap.  Away the hardened vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;FI - At some point maintenance would call for cleaning the injectors and replacing the O-rings or whatever sealing mechanism your bike uses.  Do it per the maintenance schedule.  When they begin to fail you get tiny air leaks that become worse over time.  The added oxygen increases combustion temp and can fry your exhaust valves in the summer.  There's no ODBII fanciness with bikes, each one is friggin snowflake with it's own unique way of getting error codes.  If you have an FI light on, look in the fancy shop manual (not the haynes, the official shop manual for the manufacture with all the good information that's accurate) and follow the instructions on how to pull the error codes, it's usually very simple and will typically involve removing a rubber cover off a loom connector and using a piece of wire to jump two leads together then all this magical information like error codes pops up on your display.  You can then reference your error codes in your fancy shop manual and take appropriate action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's all I got off the top of my head.  I'm sure I missed something like an oil drain bolt but hey, I'm only human.  I hope this is helpful.  Enjoy maintaining your bike.  It's empowering and awesome and makes us all more self reliant which more than it is less. Please excuse the bounty of typo's that I'm sure are everywhere.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T01:34:34.567" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:34:34.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24065" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:57:59.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do a load test on the battery. You will need a multimeter or voltmeter and a fully charged battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect the meter leads to the battery posts (positive with positive and negative with negative).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the meter where you can see while starting the car (on the windshield laying down works).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make note of how many volts does the meter read with the car &lt;strong&gt;OFF&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start the car. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make note of how many volts did the meter read &lt;strong&gt;while the starter was working&lt;/strong&gt;. This is where you are doing the &lt;em&gt;load test&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make note of how many volts the meter reads **while the car is running in idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What was the reading during the load test? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything under 11.8V means your battery is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repeat the test multiple times. Making sure you give the battery enough time to recharge between tests.&lt;/strong&gt; Meaning: don't test it twenty times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the test comes out OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your car to the mechanic. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:57:59.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4306" CreationDate="2016-01-02T01:13:03.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Motorcycle: stiff chain links - able to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NO, this is not really repairable.  Throw it away.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I say this is that the pins inside the castors or rollers are more than likely rusted together inside the chain.  The danger isn't the rust, it's highly unlikely to be so bad as to weaken the chain extraordinarily, it's a safety issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain rides up on the sprockets at incredible speeds.  When they break they are extremely dangerous.  Have you seen a tire explode in NASCAR during a race.  All that damage is created by rubber, nylon and thin cables.  Imagine your chain coming off and the damage it would do to you or a passenger.  I've seen chains go through motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A sticking link chain will bind&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A sticking link chain has a higher chance of breaking&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sticking link chains will come off sprockets...and destroy swingarms and possible lock the engine up.  From 5,000 RPM's to zero in a snap.  Not good for engines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sticking link chains will destroy sprockets in weeks instead of years.  They land incorrectly on the sprocket and don't distribute the power delivery on every link.  Some don't touch the sprocket.  This increases wear dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sticking link chains show no mercy.  When they break they destroy things.  When they hop off sprockets (this would be my greatest worry) they gouge up swingarms and lockup motors and even destroy them from time to time by getting sucket into the power side on the motor and getting bunched up thereby punching a hole in the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T00:12:29.403" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:12:29.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23917" CreationDate="2016-01-02T01:23:44.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I can not pinpoint your issue, but will give you the information I have. Since the noise is not speed dependent, yet does not exhibit itself when the transmission is not engaged (either through disengaged clutch or left in neutral), it is my approximation the noise emanates from the transmission. The noise sounds only when the transmission is under load. This would lead me to believe there may be a bearing going bad (or just being mad) under the conditions you spell out. The bearing would most likely be in the front (engine, not final drive) side of the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I would suggest you don't do anything with it. Either the noise will become a real issue at which point it will need to be fixed, or it will never be anything but an annoyance. Until some kind of real issue (other than a weird noise) starts exhibiting itself, you cannot really tell a transmission shop what's going on, nor expect them to fix it. The issue may never &lt;em&gt;become&lt;/em&gt; a real issue ... it might just remain a noise. If the noise becomes louder, or the noise becomes associated with a vibration or some other form of issue (shifting, for instance), then take it to the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you may be able to do is to either have the transmission fluid checked to make sure it's up to level. If that's good, you could possibly have the transmission fluid changed, but I doubt that will do anything. It may be worth a try, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T01:23:44.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24069" CreationDate="2016-01-02T01:45:03.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your Elantra has a switch under the hood which detects if it is latched or not. All of the doors, trunk lid/rear hatch, and hood must be closed or the &quot;beep&quot; will not occur. Since you stated the hood was somewhat smashed, it may not be &quot;closing&quot; the switch telling it the hood is down. In other words, your car's security system may be operating exactly as it should be if it believes the hood is still open. This is normal behavior when something is ajar to alert you to the possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raise your hood and look for a plunger which would be activated when the hood is down. This should be up front near to the passenger side of the vehicle. Here is an image where I believe it's at (very near where it's at on my 2008 Azera). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGho7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGho7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; This is the underhood of an '06 Elantra ... I believe the '07 is the same, but am unsure. If it's different, I'll bet the plunger is somewhere near this same area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check if my theory is what's going on, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the hood up and support it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure all of the doors and trunk lid are closed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push down on the plunger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attempt to lock the doors and see if the &quot;beep&quot; occurs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it occurs, you know this is your issue. As soon as you get the parts replaced or fixed, everything should be right as rain. I really doubt the horn is broken because if your Elantra is like my Azera, it doesn't use the horn, but some other thing to make the beep ... could be that the beeper is broken, but I'm doubting that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T15:51:51.500" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T15:51:51.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24025" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:04:16.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon the information you've provided it sounds like the issue revolves around the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ignition switch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's inconsistent in it's operation and seems like it would be the root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ignition switch is the issue then part of the steering column and facade around the switch would need to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:04:16.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24087" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:12:08.693" Score="10" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found out about this tool from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24073/675&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in understanding the steps involved in using this tool to remove/install motorcycle chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would it be possible to use this tool to remove/install timing chains on car engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17gP2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Press&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T15:03:59.650" Title="How does one use a chain press to remove a motorcycle chain?" Tags="|motorcycle|tools|chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18768" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:39:54.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Check Engine Light flashing on doesn't necessarily mean that there is something wrong but it could be a good &lt;em&gt;indicator that something is about to go wrong&lt;/em&gt;  the only problem here is not knowing when or which part is about to fail.  I know the anticipation of possibilities is as much fun as watching paint dry so if I were you I would take the time to at least check each of your cylinders and each Fuel Injector for full spark  .  You just might catch it before it goes into full fault.  Remember:  When checking for spark at the coil or at the distributor cap; The line that gives you the strongest electrical flow is usually the line leading to the mis-firing cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:39:54.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12919" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:56:20.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bed of a dump truck is only secured by two hinges and a Hydraulic hoist. It is not designed to be pushed by a wheel loader bulldozer or other piece of equipment in the event it becomes stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aluminum bed could easily be crushed just from the extra force imposed upon the tailgate, And in the least case scenario would be severely misaligned thus enabling it to close securely and preventing  a load from Leaking, and depositing into the roadway, etc. Also, a misaligned push could actually bend the frame of the truck ruining its capacity to be operated safely again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14008" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T04:03:16.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T04:03:16.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23843" CreationDate="2016-01-02T06:40:15.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firing order is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;1, 3, 4, 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQmza.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQmza.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coils and Sparkplug Wires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qn6Dc.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qn6Dc.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T06:40:15.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T10:27:43.427" Score="6" ViewCount="7671" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good morning all. I drive an 05 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2L, 5-spd manual trans. Lately I've been having issues which I am told is throttle related. As I'm driving for a little bit (time varies) I go to downshift while or without braking, and my RPMs go up from say 1000 to 2500-3000. RPMs go down when I release the clutch. Now when I come to a complete stop and shift to neutral and release the clutch the RPMs go up to 2500-3000 and it takes about 5 seconds to return to a normal idle. This has been ongoing for about two weeks now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas as to what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14010" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T14:30:15.663" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T20:49:50.423" Title="RPMs jump to 2500 when clutch is disengaged or transmission put in neutral" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|idle|throttle|cavalier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24084" CreationDate="2016-01-02T11:10:36.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are common symptoms of an split air hose allowing unmetered air into the engine intake.  Check all air related hoses for cracks.  Hoses include the main air intake, crank case ventilation system and vacuum hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T11:10:36.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2016-01-02T14:53:37.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely agree with @Paulster2!&#xA;I would like to add this though, bluetooth scan tools do exist as well as some limited Wifi ones. OTC makes the Encore. However though, you need to keep in mind what kind of scan tool you want. There are the ones that you can buy from Autozone that cost $100 - $200 and there are professional scan tools that range from $2500 - $7000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have a range of them. I tend to use certain ones for certain applications as well. I generally use OBDLink bluetooth scanner for my Miata since it's a bit older and doesn't have the data bus systems in it. &#xA;I use my Snap-on Verus for mostly Asian and Domestic brands, and I use AutoEnginuity for mostly Chrysler and European brands. They all have their ups and downs. It just depends on what you want or need. I used to work in a dealership and owned my own shop for a while, so advanced scan tools were literally necessary. If you're a DIY'er you wouldn't need anything too expensive. I would say either OBDLink or AutoEnginuity would suit your needs perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wanting to tune, that requires an OEM or factory scan tool. At Honda we had scan tools specifically made by the guys at Honda. Same for Chrysler, they use &quot;StarScan&quot;. SOME scan tools like the Verus can do this, but it's generally unlikely you can with an aftermarket scan tool. There are replacement ECM's you can buy to do this though, they generally come with the software and everything. If thats what you're wanting to do of-course. Don't get scammed by Ebay fuel tuners either. There is an episode of a show called &quot;Mighty Car Mods&quot; on YouTube and they literally debunk the myth of plug and play gas savers with a guy that engineers engine systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes in short, you can do almost anything you want with the right scan tool. &#xA;AutoEnginuity is the cheapest most versatile scan tool I've ever come across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with finding the right one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T14:53:37.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24080" CreationDate="2016-01-02T15:03:59.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A motorcycle chain is made up of several parts. This diagram gives a great overview of what those parts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEDzr.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OEDzr.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can tell from the picture, the chain is made up of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outer plates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner plates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rollers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pins (or rivets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; like they were made to be just &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt;, they are actually made to be taken apart if needed. The tool shown in your picture is designed to disassemble or &lt;em&gt;break&lt;/em&gt; the chain. It can either push the rivet out or push it back in to reassemble. Here is another image showing basically a pin pushed out and the chain in a &quot;broke&quot; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASUwY.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASUwY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iq9T1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iq9T1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tool you have shown, I believe the small block at the base of the tool (orange arrow) is capable of turning (being removed and rotated) to allow it to do several functions (break or rivet). You put the unbroken chain in the cradle with the rivet lined up with the base hole (green arrow). You first tighten the larger screw (red arrow) to capture the link and hold it all together. It goes around the outside of the pin. You then use the smaller screw (blue arrow) to either rivet or break the chain. The smaller screw will push the pin out or in, depending on your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most motorcycle chains, unlike car timing chains, are designed to be taken apart if needed. Timing chains come assembled for their specific design and are not designed to be taken apart. Motorcycle chains come as a long premade chain to parts stores, where the clerk can break the chain in the specific size needed for the application. This way the purchaser gets only what they need and nothing more, which means nothing is wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T15:03:59.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:35:50.897" Score="3" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Opel corsa b and I stalled it today, the lights started flickering and clicking, I tried to start it about 15 minutes after this but it won't start and lights keep flickering and clicking, it can't be the battery because I changed it, the car has been sitting for about 2 months but I start it daily,  I have no insurance and so I can't drive it, if any one has any ideas, please tell me, thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14011" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T16:47:42.987" Title="Car won't start but battery is new" Tags="|opel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:47:42.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have just flattened the battery due to starting it daily and not letting it run long enough to put charge back in the battery, you need to put the battery on a charger to charge it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that your alternator is not charging the battery when the engine is running.  The next time you start the engine, check the battery voltage while the engine is running.  If the alternator is OK, the voltage should be 13.8 - 14.4 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that your battery connections are not clean and tight causing a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T16:47:42.987" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:58:44.957" Score="7" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toyota recommends to use regular(87) grade of gasoline, but tested cars with the gasoline grade 91(see user manual). &#xA;Somebody  know why they recommend to use grade 87 if they did not tested cars with this grade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14012" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T22:24:44.467" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:36:16.070" Title="Gasoline grade manufacturer recommends vs what was used during testing" Tags="|toyota|fuel-consumption|octane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19766" CreationDate="2016-01-02T17:24:12.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an excellent procedure that will cause no damage. We have used several versions of it for years with no ill effects. For most transmissions draining only removes 1/2 to 1/3 of the total volume. It does not hurt anything for two reasons:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 The trans is under no load. The clutches have no torque load applied so they have no reason to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Lubrication is never really lost. There is not sufficient time for the fluid to drain off the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We add another step; we run the shifter through the available gear ranges to flush the clutches that are not supplied fluid when the shifter is in Park. Do not do this unless the drive wheels are securely up off the road. We have the vehicle on a hoist when we do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate method 1: Fill while run method. You can skip the step to fill step and just add to the filler while the engine is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate method 2: Drain, fill and drive method. This involves a drive of a few minutes between drain and fill events. This method ensures that the dirty fluid is flushed out of all the passages and clutches for all the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock hose clamps are better than gear clamps. If the connections are leaking it is because the hoses hardened too much and need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T05:28:55.507" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T05:28:55.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24111" CreationDate="2016-01-02T18:28:43.547" Score="10" ViewCount="1433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had two Mazda's, a 97 323 and 98 626.  On both these car's engines there was only a single IAC mounted on top of the throttle body, and no other device for adding air flow on the intake side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on my 99 Nissan Almera with the GA16DE engine there are two IAC type devices mounted on one side of the throttle body, one called the &lt;code&gt;Auxiliary air control&lt;/code&gt; and the other called the &lt;code&gt;Fast idle control device&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Jdp1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Jdp1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A system diagram in the engine control manual shows both these as part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://avtolib.ru/li/nissan/ec_ga16.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;idle air control system ( pg 12 )&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umIaC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umIaC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there is also have a Fast Idle Cam ( pg 55 ) on the throttle body which seems to directly open the main throttle plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGWjU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGWjU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why put so many idle air control devices instead of just one like on the Mazda's I've seen.  What is the purpose of each one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T18:43:02.403" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:02:24.900" Title="Why Have More Than One IAC Type Device On an Engine?" Tags="|idle|air-intake|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24084" CreationDate="2016-01-02T19:20:27.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @handyhowie indicated, the source of the issue is more than likely unmetered air or simply an 'air leak'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This creates what's called a '&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/tags/lean/info&quot;&gt;lean condition'&lt;/a&gt; for your engine.  When you are lean in your combustion mixture you have too much oxygen and not enough gas.  The symptoms are exactly what you describe.  You can also have your engine temperature increase a bit when you are experiencing a lean condition, especially in stop and go traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common culprit is a vacuum line that has detached or a crack in a vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a can of carburetor cleaner you can use tiny squirts of it around your carburetor or fuel injection throttle body to see if it drops the idle down as the liquid temporarily blocks the crack that is sucking air into the system.  You might also smell it as it comes out of your exhaust.  The odor is a sharp NOx smell.  This is a great indicator that you have an air leak issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T19:20:27.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24104" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:26:45.253" Score="6" ViewCount="1708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experience a bunch of problems with my 2007 Mazda 3's electrical system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most annoying issue is that I hear [a rather loud] engine noise when I connect a phone to the AUX (3.5mm audio jack) line while it is simultaneously being charged through a cigarette lighter adapter. The noise goes away when the power line is disconnected. Somehow related to this issue: even when the charging cable is disconnected and the aux input is in use, whenever I change the [automatic] transmission into/from &quot;Parking&quot; mode, the connected phone panics (hangs). It seems as if a surge goes through the AUX line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar threads on this forum [1, 2] suggest ground issues as the possible root cause of these kind of problems. Is there any systematic method to isolate/find the fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19752/audio-noise-when-laptop-connected-to-power-inverter-and-the-cars-3-5mm-audio-ja&quot;&gt;Audio noise when laptop connected to power inverter and the car&amp;#39;s 3.5mm audio jack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8984/series-of-troubling-electrical-problems-in-my-07-mazda-3-any-ideas&quot;&gt;Series of troubling electrical problems in my &amp;#39;07 Mazda 3. Any ideas?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14014" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T18:18:45.620" Title="Multiple issues with AUX input (Mazda 3 2007)" Tags="|electrical|noise|mazda|audio|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24097" CreationDate="2016-01-02T22:28:35.290" Score="7" ViewCount="9105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my brake pads and discs changed a few days ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I make any changes to my driving style to &quot;run them in&quot; or anything, like not braking hard, or avoiding prolonged breaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T02:17:47.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T06:34:10.997" Title="Should I avoid hard braking when I've changed my discs and pads?" Tags="|brakes|break-in|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24096" CreationDate="2016-01-02T22:58:32.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right after they are installed, you should do the following ... if you are few days into the new pads, it's probably too late to do anything &lt;em&gt;special&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature.  This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS.  At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again.  &lt;strong&gt;DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP!&lt;/strong&gt;  If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled.  A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down.  Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steps are taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm&quot;&gt;Zechhausen website&lt;/a&gt; on bedding brakes. There are other basic methods for doing this as well. You can look at what's on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf&quot;&gt;Centric Parts&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85&quot;&gt;TireRack.com&lt;/a&gt; for their procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T22:58:32.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24103" CreationDate="2016-01-02T23:11:37.480" Score="7" ViewCount="1403" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have a 1990 Toyota Supra Turbo 4 speed auto.&lt;/em&gt; I've done some research about automatic transmissions and manual transmissions and what are the positives and negatives of each. (For example, MT is said to have better fuel economy by having the wheels roll without any influx of air.) A topic that I came across is that AT loose more HP, around 15% to 20% of the HP created at the wheels when translated from the engine (aka the crank HP), as opposed to MT loosing &amp;lt;15% at the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• What contributes to the AT loosing more of the HP generated at the wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• What should one do to reduce the HP lost at the wheels without compromising the efficiency of the car? (Exhaust mods/manifold mods/ straight-piped via CAI reduces low-end torque [obtained info from a plethora of automotive sites].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• If the above answer is impossible to obtain, &lt;strong&gt;what should one do to decrease the amount of HP lost in an AT at the wheels?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Since I have a AT, I'm not necessarily going to do any modifications. I'm just using my car as a reference.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Branden&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T01:23:43.983" Title="What should one do to reduce the HP lost at the wheels on an automatic transmission?" Tags="|engine|toyota|automatic-transmission|wheels|power|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23674" CreationDate="2016-01-03T00:00:58.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IT WORKED! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not hook my battery up with the 16V charger as I felt the risk would be too much (its a pretty new battery will update if I try it though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the 12V charger things worked fine. I did not find any heating in the adapter or the battery. The adapter just got mildly warm when the voltage reached close to 12V. The first time I charged my battery for nearly 3 hours, did get a crank which was better than the state I found my battery in, but not enough to start the car engine. Next day I charged it continuously for 6 hours and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldnt recommend charging this way but, its a nice handy trick to have in case you need it someday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13813" LastEditorUserId="13813" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T18:16:00.693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:16:00.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24098" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:23:43.983" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power losses in a MT are primarily do to friction. Everything in a MT is positively locked together, meaning there is no slip anywhere. Beyond friction at least one of the rotating assemblies is partially submerged in the gear lube to provide splash lube for everything else. Stirring the fluid looses power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an automatic everything I just mentioned applies(ish). The additional power loss comes from the need to produce line pressure to operate the transmissions systems. Also before the torque converter clutch engages to lock the torque converter 1:1 there is substantial thermal loss inside the torque converter from just churning the fluid inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as improving lost horsepower well there's nothing you can do. Friction is a bitch we all have to live with. Every bearing from the back of the crank shaft all the way to the wheels contribute to these losses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T01:23:43.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24095" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:56:05.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem could be caused by two things. A shitty car charger, they are not all created equal, or a ground loop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the charger goes try several different ones, name brand ones tend to be the best (htc, iphone, samsung, etc...). If the problem goes away then it was the charger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a ground loop, what happens is that the ground potential in the cigarette lighter is slightly different than the head unit. A better way to say this is one has a better ground than the other. What happens is that the device with the worst ground will hunt for a better ground. That ground is found in the device with the better ground and a current develops in the audio cable. This current (regardless of the direction) shifts the reference point of the audio contributing to noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ground loop isolator blocks DC (the bad current) and allows through the AC (the audio). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car has a star based grounding system. There are like 6 or 7 main grounding points in the entire car. Some are under the hood and some are in the cab/trunk. If you narrow it down to a ground loop issue you can hunt for an systematically clean every ground. Unbolt the grounding point. Clean both sides of the eye and the body surface it bolts to. Apply some dielectric grease to both sides of the eye and the body to prevent corrosion. Bolt it back down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find these grounding points you need the vehicles service manual or access to a service manual system. These will have a list of all the ground points and pictures of their locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T01:56:05.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24096" CreationDate="2016-01-03T06:27:14.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bedding the brakes is best when done immediately after installing the new pads / and or rotors so that both pads and rotor attain a mating imprint as mentioned previously. This is not done in 99% of brake pad and or rotor replacement cases and so I would not be too worried about doing it at all if you haven't done it yet. You'll be just fine. As you use the vehicle they will mate on their own, with regular use it will just take a few more miles of stop and go traffic to get the results you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T06:34:10.997" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T06:34:10.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24093" CreationDate="2016-01-03T06:56:50.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason to use two is a matter of scale. Fast idle requires a high volume of air but the exact amount is not critical. So a big bore with a cheap slow moving plunger is all that is needed. Idle requires a much smaller amount of air but a much higher degree of control than fast idle. A more expensive fast cycling shutter valve is the most common design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For years now the OEM's have all settled on using a computer controlled throttle for idle control and many other speed and load controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T06:56:50.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:08:22.920" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 VW Passat GLS 1.8l  and it has oil in the radiator reservoir. and my Oil light says oil compression low.   i flushed the radiator and found oil in it again, (the radiator overflow) it doesn't show the temp light anymore but now it shows the oil low compression light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14021" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T13:54:23.343" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T18:23:19.493" Title="2000 Vw passat 1.8l oil is in radiator" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|passat|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:16:37.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are:  If your rotor heated to RED, you may have destroyed your Caliper seals and warped your rotor.  This rotor is now useless and the Caliper Piston seals may need replacing.  After you replaced the parts and went for a test run, Did you notice if your car was losing speed each time you stepped on the brake? and did you notice if you were needing to accelerate more for the car to move when this happened? If you said yes to the last two questions then it would be a good idea to check for a failed Power Brake Booster. This usually happens when you let the Master Cylinder dry out while pumping the brake.  In the meantime:  you can loosen the stuck caliper by simply opening the bleeder valve on the caliper of the tire in question.  You can Bleed it through the Caliper Bleed Valve (which may be too hot to handle for a while) or you can locate the Brake Fluid Compression box which is also located under the hood. (this box should have 4 other brake lines attached to it)  On the compression box locate the line that leads to the sticking wheel and crack the line compression nut.  Listen for a clicking sound and wait for it to stop completely and then close the line. (When you crack the bleeder valve you should hear several clicks as the caliper piston loosens up freeing the pads from the rotor. Reminders:  Check Power Brake Booster for failure, Check Caliper Piston Seals, Check for Fluid Line Blockage, Replace rotor(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:16:37.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:41:13.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a constant hissing sound I would be inclined to think along the lines of a vacuum issue.  I suggest you do a Power Brake Booster test to determine if the Booster is beginning to fail.  You will know this if you turn on the car, press the brake down and hold it for about 15 seconds to see if the pedal floors out (if it floors out you may need a new Master Cylinder. if you hear a &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Whaught&quot; sound&lt;/strong&gt; (a vacuum sound in reverse) coming from under your dashboard &lt;strong&gt;when releasing&lt;/strong&gt; the brake pedal then chances are you may need a Power Brake Booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:41:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="486" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:44:51.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have the rotors turned (machined) or simply replace them with new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:44:51.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24093" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:54:07.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://avtolib.ru/li/nissan/ec_ga16.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; you linked to explains what they're used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AACV is the main idle speed control while the FICD is used to supply additional air to the engine when the AC is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AACV&lt;/strong&gt; (Page EC-GA-117)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This system automatically controls engine idle speed to a specified level. Idle speed is controlled through fine adjustment of the amount of air which bypasses the throttle valve via IACV-AAC valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FICD&lt;/strong&gt; (Page EC-GA-122)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the air conditioner is on, the IACV-FICD solenoid valve supplies&#xA;  additional air to adjust to the increased load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why two IAC's and not one, there could be several reasons for Nissan to set it up like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bigger IACV wouldn't provide fine enough control (as Fred Wilson &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24106/675&quot;&gt;points out&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this is a relatively small engine (1.6 L), so the additional load coming from an AC would result in a large percentage change in air flow which the AACV cannot accommodate by itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parts availability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regarding the &quot;third&quot; idle air control&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24093/why-have-more-than-one-iac-type-device-on-an-engine/24111?noredirect=1#comment36442_24111&quot;&gt;discovered empirically&lt;/a&gt;, the FIC mentioned in Page EC-GA-55 of the service manual is the &lt;em&gt;cold-start enrichment&lt;/em&gt; mechanism that slightly opens up the throttle plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not the same as the FICD, which is activated exclusively when the air-conditioning is in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:02:24.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:55:19.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This definitely sounds like a Power Brake Booster issue.  If you stop at a light and the pedal slowly floors out then you likely need a New PBB.  Check your Booster:  Turn on the car and press the brake pedal, hold it for about 15 seconds, if it floors out, chances are you need a new PBB.  &lt;strong&gt;Also Press on the brake pedal, if you hear a &quot;WHAUGHT&quot; sound (vacuum in reverse) when releasing the pedal then you need a new PBB.&lt;/strong&gt;  Very easy fix.  about 1 1/2 hour for the experienced mechanic and 5-7 hours for the inexperienced mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:55:19.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15988" CreationDate="2016-01-03T08:09:19.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptom you mentioned leads me to believe that you have a bad Power Brake Booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:09:19.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15826" CreationDate="2016-01-03T08:22:00.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said white smoke was coming out from the hood area behind the engine:  You could have a leaked manifold gasket.  &lt;strong&gt;The cause could be a faulty water pump&lt;/strong&gt;  If the pump is not working well the coolant and or water is not being forced through the system well enough to keep the engine cooled thus creating overheat.  The vehicle is a 1998, and so I would first consider pinpointing the smoke and searching for the possible leak at the rear of the engine and then I would definitely consider replacing the Water Pump.  After all the vehicle is almost 20 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:22:00.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2016-01-03T08:59:11.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worked on a couple of vehicles that had a very fine leak at the seam of the intake manifold.  I noticed that The fluids were boiling back into the coolant reservoir.  I located the leak on the seem of the intake manifold, I used a dab of &quot;Mr. Muscle&quot; gasket glue (small brown bottle).  Worked it into the seem with a toothbrush in tiny circular motions and waited 24 hrs.  So far one year passed by and no complaints from the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:59:11.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21381" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:10:40.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is another choice:  You can locate the bad cylinder and then remove the valve spring, take out the piston rod, wrap a rag around it and hammer it gently on a steel or smooth concrete surface to straiten out the Push Rod a bit for re-use.  Change the lifter also (chances are the lifter has pitted underneath).  This procedure will smooth out the knock considerably but is not a permanent cure unless you use new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T09:10:40.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:17:59.017" Score="-2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power cuts out when I wiggle positive battery terminal right when I wiggle it left power comes back on megane 225 please help when I put foot on accelerator it feels like I'm being g pushed backwards hard and internal light comes on :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T18:29:37.857" Title="Power cuts out when I wiggle positive battery terminal" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-03T21:00:35.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16209" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:18:43.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this video on how to get HONDA CODES:   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T09:18:43.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2016-01-03T09:28:35.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the starter connections as well as the starter itself.  You can take the starter off and take it to AutoZone.  They will check your starter for free or you can Take the starter off and test the solenoid and the actuator yourself at home with jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T09:28:35.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T10:08:47.523" Score="3" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to start when it is cold. Below 50 degrees. What could it be? This is a 2003 Toyota Avalon XL. Like it is laboring making all sorts of rattling noise. Yesterday when it was about 49 degrees, It cranked after numerous attempts, but the rpm kept oscillating between about 300 and 1000 for a few minutes until it stabilized at about 600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14024" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T15:10:40.437" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T18:16:01.490" Title="2003 Toyota Avalon hard to start in cold weather" Tags="|toyota|cold-start|avalon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24120" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:36:48.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the key clue here is the fact the engine runs rough for a few minutes. This tells me that the cold-start enrichment, where the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is slightly rich, isn't taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few possible reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;insufficient fuel pressure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule this out, have the fuel rail pressure tested to make sure that the fuel delivery is as per spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fuel rail pressure is lower than expected, the following would be my culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clogged fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weak fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a leak in the fuel line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;partially-clogged injectors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These would prevent cold-start enrichment from taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is to blame, you might be able to get away with just running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through the fuel tank. If that doesn't work the injectors may need to be taken out for more thorough conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;unmetered intake air&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would result in a lean mixture on most engines since they operate in open-loop mode while warming up (for the first few minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Culprits to consider here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;underreading mass air flow sensor (MAF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a post-MAF intake air leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you to start with the test for fuel pressure. Analyzing the fuel trims using a scan tool/OBD-II will quickly help you identify whether an air intake leak is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system can be done regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T14:51:53.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:51:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24120" CreationDate="2016-01-03T13:55:12.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be due to the engine ECU not knowing the air or coolant temperature due to a faulty sensor.  A temperature reading is important to the engine ECU, to allow it to adjust fuel mixture at startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usually an air temperature sensors built into the MAF sensor (if it has one) and there will be a coolant sensor screwed into pipe work next to cylinder head somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T15:01:55.470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:01:55.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24141" CreationDate="2016-01-03T14:26:22.733" Score="8" ViewCount="37288" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 VW Passat has an issue where the nearside rear door will not always open when the corresponding button is pressed on the car key. When the other doors are unlocked, the faulty door makes an unusual noise as if something is trying to move but can't. Apparently its quite common with VW cars of this age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the most likely cause of this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear nearside door now consistantly won't open, making replacing the door lock actuator (the part that is currently believed to be at fault) somewhat harder to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T21:32:33.823" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T14:34:53.990" Title="VW Passat B5 Rear Door Central Locking Issue - Door Lock Actuator Replacement" Tags="|vw|locks|door|passat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24127" CreationDate="2016-01-03T14:32:31.133" Score="6" ViewCount="9127" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem I have been having with my VW Passat was that my cigarette lighter was not working in the car. It is the only one in the main part of the car (there is another one in the boot) and it would be a pain if I couldn't use it to charge my sat nav or phone whilst I am driving. Has anyone got any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:14:46.707" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T09:59:59.187" Title="2004 VW Passat B5 Cigarette Lighter Broken - Common Problem" Tags="|electrical|vw|interior|passat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24124" CreationDate="2016-01-03T14:44:22.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is usually a fuse just for the cigarette lighter socket, this is the first thing you should check. You should be able to find it in one of the fuse boxes.  Looks like there is a fuse box on both the driver's and passenger's side in the passenger compartment and different Passats have different fuse numbers, but it looks like you are looking for a yellow 20 amp fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T14:49:57.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:49:57.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24124" CreationDate="2016-01-03T14:58:20.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;CAUSE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, after further investigation a coin had fallen in to the lighter and caused a short circuit at some point in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;FIX&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it (at least in my case - the most common problem), you need a new 15A (blue) automotive fuse and a flat head screwdriver (or anything to prize off the fuse box cover).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car the fuse box is located between the drivers door and the main interior console of the car. Use the screwdriver to lever the cover off gently - you don't want to break any of the plastic clips that hold it secure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you should be able to see a fuse card diagram that will tell you which fuse it is that corresponds to the cigarette lighter. It may look different if you have a different car manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HLju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HLju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Similar One Here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auctionerrol.com/passatfuse.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;auctionerrol.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cigarette lighter is fuse number 33 on the card so find the fuse in the car in the corresponding location. The shape of the fuse diagram will match the shape on the actual car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now take the old fuse out using the tool provided and replace it with the new one. Put the fuse box cover back on and now your cigarette lighter should work! If it does not then you may need to replace the cigarette lighter itself which is much less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7BnAzVaalGQ?t=11s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This useful video&lt;/a&gt; helped me alot (it was my first real car maintenance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T19:35:00.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24129" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:14:55.867" Score="2" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a yellow light on my dash that says 'EPC'. I have no idea what this could mean on my car as I haven't noticed any difference in the way it drives, nor are there any unusual sounds other than from the cam belt which is due for a service in 3000 miles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the EPC light mean on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:18:12.897" Title="VW Passat B5 EPC Light on Dashboard" Tags="|engine|vw|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24128" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:18:12.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EPC stands for &lt;strong&gt;Electronic Power Control&lt;/strong&gt; ... it's the stability program which can be found on VW's. All manufacturers have different names for it and this is what VW calls theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the issue at hand, it means there is a problem with the system. Until you get the codes read which tells you what the issue is, I'm afraid we cannot help you further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:18:12.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24131" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:30:16.957" Score="5" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using a Ford 9&quot; Rear-end in a hotrod build, am I limited to specific engine and transmission combinations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:34:10.673" Title="What Engine/Transmission combinations am I restricted to with a Ford 9&quot; Rear-end?" Tags="|ford|hotrod|rear-end|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24130" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:34:10.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not restricted to any build. A 9&quot; Ford rear-end is utilized in just about every kind of hotrod build out there, mainly due to its strength and longevity. You can find one made (built) for just about any application out there. You can even find them without any type of mounting on them where you can add your specific type of mounts for a specific application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:34:10.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:39:03.023" Score="5" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C3 Exclusive semi-automatic.  The problem is that you need to put some pressure on the brake pedal before you can start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just had home start who didn't listen to a thing I said but all of a sudden it started. I had had enough by then and said thanks and cheerio.  I drove to my destination, not switching off until I returned home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did switch off - yes you've guessed it - it would not start. I know there is a switch somewhere but don't know where. Any ideas please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14025" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T17:45:06.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T17:45:06.397" Title="Intermittent fault with engine start inhibitor on Citröen C3" Tags="|starting|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24132" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:42:25.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably the same switch that is used to light your brake lights.  Get someone to check if your brake lights are lighting up each time you press the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch will more than likely be located just above the brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You usually also need to select neutral on the gear selector to disable the inhibitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T15:47:43.047" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:47:43.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24107" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:53:31.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have a blown head gasket. The only other explanation is the car has an oil to antifreeze cooler that is cracked or damaged. What is happening is that the oil pressure is greater than coolant pressure and is forcing it's way into the coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head gasket separates not only the combustion chamber but also coolant, pressurized oil and oil return. If the membrane between the coolant and pressurized oil is damaged these are the symptoms you would get. Because the oil pressure is escaping into the coolant that would cause low oil pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:53:31.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24140" CreationDate="2016-01-03T16:20:24.603" Score="17" ViewCount="40712" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Preamble &lt;sub&gt;(Rant)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reviewing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18767/675&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; in which the OP presents a repair quotation that includes replacing the &quot;intake camshaft&quot; to fix an engine that had overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this recommendation is incredulous. I can understand the need to replace a warped cylinder head, but struggle to see how an overheating problem could lead to the need for a new camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, some aftermarket tuners will create new camshaft profiles by grinding down existing OEM ones; if there was a sensible reason to use a new one I'm pretty sure they would be among the first ones to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things could happen to a camshaft that warrant its complete replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the different ways that a camshaft can fail/break, are there any techniques out there to salvage a damaged camshaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T15:57:41.997" Title="When does it make sense to replace a camshaft?" Tags="|engine|camshaft|failure-modes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T16:28:49.917" Score="7" ViewCount="5577" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Fiat Punto 1.2 Year 2000 MK2 (I believe) will not start. The engine turns over but the car won't start. The fuel light is flashing and petrol gauge says empty which isn't the case. There are three warning lights on the dashboard which is low engine pressure oil, fuel injection system failure and the power steering warning light is on also. My uncle thinks it may be an intermittent problem but he's not exactly sure. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated on what anyone thinks the problem might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18/1/16 Had a mechanic look at it yesterday after my uncle checking over everything he could. Mechanic said he checked fuses, Connectors...etc No electrical faults were coming up either. He seems puzzled as to why it won't start. Especially why the petrol gauge flashes and registers the cars tank as empty. (he did I believe check fuel pump, relay..etc) He even changed the crank sensor with still no luck. A few days before this my uncle disconnected the battery charged it for a day &amp;amp; placed it back after that. The car then started. Started it the next day again all was fine. Then day after that it wouldn't start again hence me Calling out the mechanic. I did also mention to him that a little while ago whilst driving I was getting a kind of clicking sound coming from the steering wheel colounn but car &amp;amp; steering was still absolutely fine. The mechanic thinks that the key is damaged and that I need a new one to be reprogrammed why the car won't start. However this doesn't seem to be a cheap procedure &amp;amp; I'm just concerned that it won't work either. I dont believe I was given a key code to test this theory either. I'm so frustrated I just feel like it's something so silly that needs to be rectified (especially since it managed to start up recently) but just can't seem to pin point what that is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did try to add this into comments but it strangely won't allow me to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14028" LastEditorUserId="14028" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T12:19:08.393" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T17:19:50.370" Title="Fiat Punto Wont Start. Fuel Light &amp; Three warning lights flashing" Tags="|engine|fuel-injection|warning-light|fiat|punto|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T16:30:10.340" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy new car Mitsubishi Pajero Sport (Model: MBS MT 4x4). I've heard stories of people 'breaking in' engines for the first few hundred or couple thousand kilometers using methods such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Not driving above 80 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Varying the revs more than usual throughout the entire range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Keeping the revs below 2.5k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 'break-in' necessary on modern cars? If so, how should I 'break-in' a new engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14027" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T16:45:58.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T16:45:58.533" Title="Break-in engine" Tags="|engine|break-in|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T10:10:00.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24136" CreationDate="2016-01-03T16:44:14.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What things could happen to a camshaft that warrant its complete replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are couple of things which I can think of off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Performance Gains&lt;/strong&gt;: The user wants some gains in performance so will replace the camshaft so the engine can breath better (more air in = more power out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cam failure&lt;/strong&gt;: A cam can fail for many different reasons&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam lobe failure due to lubrication issues or failed lifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam bearing journal failure due to lubrication issues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam breakage (I've seen this happen due to a warped head)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the different ways that a camshaft can fail/break, are there any techniques out there to salvage a damaged camshaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a cam is wiped out (cam lobe failure) or bearing journal failure, you can have the area rebuilt (welded) and ground down to spec again. If a cam breaks, you don't have much of a choice but replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For almost any of the more common engines these days which accept performance improvements, there is most likely a camshaft design for you. There are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; different aftermarket cam manufacturers out there who will build a camshaft to your specifications. They will also help you figure out exactly what is going on with a different cam shaft which will be right for your application. They can even build to suit. In most cases it's going to be easier/cheaper to buy a new cam than it would be to have your cam shaft ground down with a new profile ... that's &lt;em&gt;most cases&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are always the odd-ball engines which don't have an aftermarket which you'll need to do some extraordinary means to accomplish your goals. One of the ways which used to be utilized to see performance gains was to regrind a cam. That process would be to utilize a stock cam and regrind the base circle of the cam. The base circle is the where the lifter rides when there is no lift applied to the valve. If you grind this area down, the lift from this portion to the top of the cam lobe becomes a larger distance, and thus you have more lift and more potential air flow going into the cylinder. With so many &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; aftermarket cam manufacturers out there and the ability to have them grind pretty much whatever you want, this procedure has pretty much fallen from favor. Machining costs are greater than what something from a cam manufacturer would cost, so why go through the hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T16:44:14.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24136" CreationDate="2016-01-03T16:49:43.523" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously any physical damage; cracked, broken, bearing surface damage, sheared gear, etc... Any catastrophic failure warrants cam replacement without possibility of repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A warped cylinder head could theoretically also warp the cam shaft but i would not just replace it, i would check it first. Place the cam in a set of V blocks. Put a dial indicator on the bearing surface and spin the camshaft. Watch how much the dial indicator deflects. The appropriate engine manual will have the warpage specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more subtle problems arise from lobe wear. A valve that does not open all the way could cause strange problems. At idle everything is fine but a misfire develops under power at high RPM. If the lift of the valve is reduced it won't allow as much air in which is most visible at high RPM. This is difficult to detect. A compression test may not reveal a problem. If every other possible issue is eliminated, pull the valve cover and compare lift of several valves. At worst the lobe is completely round and there is just no air entering or leaving the cylinder. This is easily detectable with a compression test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically the worn cam lobe can be reground to regain the lift. The problem with this technique is that not every valve train can compensate for the reduced base circle. Any car with adjustable valves can usually tolerate this. Any car with only hydrolic lifters normally can't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T16:49:43.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24123" CreationDate="2016-01-03T18:06:04.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that you can hear some noise from the door with the inoperational lock is an indication that the wiring is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance that the door lock actuator has gone bad and needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T22:23:25.357" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T22:23:25.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24120" CreationDate="2016-01-03T18:16:01.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I support what has been said make a scan on the vehicle first bcos I believe there shld be a check engine light on ur DB before proceeding to any repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T18:16:01.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24117" CreationDate="2016-01-03T18:19:41.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your alternator has to be checked because of the terminal wiggle. More so the vehicle is having some electrical body ground contact which causes the light to come on when not operated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14001" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T18:29:37.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T18:29:37.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24146" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:07:38.630" Score="7" ViewCount="25343" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Honda Accord I4 is idling fine when cold but once warm it begins &quot;revving&quot; on its own between 1200-2000RPM at about 0.5Hz. The vehicle initially threw a DTC &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P0507&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected&quot;) within a few minutes of starting but after disconnecting the battery (see troubleshooting below) I haven't been able to reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At cold start idle is a little higher than normal, 2000RPM (usually 1500?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When warm, and vehicle is in PARK, idle revs between 1200-2000RPM at about 0.5Hz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holding the accelerator when vehicle is in PARK ceases revving, but then it begins again when accelerator is released.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placing vehicle in DRIVE ceases revving, but idle is higher than normal, 1200RPM (usually 700?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interesting twist: If I disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) while its revving the frequency of revving increases to about 1Hz. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a different idle problem two months ago that I never got to root cause on, see writeup here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22290/2005-honda-accord-4cyl-low-idle-and-stalling-when-warm&quot;&gt;2005 Honda Accord 4cyl low idle and stalling when warm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting steps performed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected poor air-flow. I removed and inspected the air filter. Air filter was fine. Started car with air intake open (air filter removed) and no change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected bad Mass Airflow Sensor. Disconnected MAF electrical, restarted motor. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected engine controller needed reset. Disconnected battery, reconnected, held motor at 3000RPM for a minute. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected coolant system might have air in it. I removed the cap to the coolant reservoir and lifted the tube so I could observe coolant overflowing into the reservoir. The coolant reservoir was about 1/4 below MAX line when the engine was warm. No change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected battery might be low. Battery is dated 6/2011. Drove car around for 10-15 minutes between 35-45MPH, no change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected vacuum leak somewhere in air intake system. Sprayed throttle cleaner over a few connection points that I could identify as air hoses, no obvious change in behavior (but hard to tell when engine is already revving on its own). (Update: Learned later I did this incorrectly, you have to disconnect the TPS or else the computer may adjust automatically. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Find a Vacuum Leak&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected dirty throttle body or dirty Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). I removed the throttle body and IAC and thoroughly cleaned with throttle body cleaner. The interior of the IAC caked in grime; took me a half hour, a rag and a handful of q-tips to get clean. Reassembled, no change in behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspected bad alternator / electrical. Checked voltage across battery terminals, 14.5V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Per @Paulster2 below, suspected faulty IAC. Disconnected IAC while engine was revving. Revving continued, so it appears unlikely its the IAC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Per @Zaid below, suspected vacuum leak again. Disconnected MAF electrical, started engine and waited for revving. Plugged air intake with heavy rag. Revving ceased but still idled high. Removed rag, revving resumed. Covered air intake with heavy-duty plastic bag. Revving ceased and idle sounded more normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While engine revving, removed electrical connection to Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Engine sputtered momentarily, then resumed. Revving gone. Idle in PARK a little high (1100) but idle in DRIVE normal (700).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resolved:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Thanks everyone for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Convinced it was a vacuum leak, I took it to a mechanic. He tested for leaks and found no evidence of a leak. He performed troubleshooting and his reference material lead him to the conclusion it was the IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On vacuum leaks: The repeated oscillation of the idle changing was inconsistent with a vacuum leak, according to him. He said if it was a vacuum leak then the idle would be more consistently high or low and I probably would have gotten a different DTC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cleaning the IAC: He thought it was foolish of me to attempt cleaning the IAC. His assertion was that carb cleaner could find its way into the actuator and permanently damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fqnva.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fqnva.png&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Accord 2003-2005 Idle Control System Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vpdLG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vpdLG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Intake Air Bypass Control Thermal Valve Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOQWT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOQWT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Idle Air Control Valve Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T06:09:33.587" Title="2005 Honda Accord 4cyl revving idle when warm" Tags="|honda|accord|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24145" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:14:38.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that your IAC valve is sticking. This would mean it is jutting in/out and not providing the amount of air for the computer to get the engine to settle. Since you've already cleaned it and the passageways, about your only other recourse is replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:14:38.317" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24145" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:23:03.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You need to check for leaks in the air intake&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A leaky air intake can explain hunting idle and I don't think spraying carb cleaner is always conclusive as some cracks can be really hard to see/detect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to check this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;block the air intake completely&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do this is disconnect the airbox and cover the piping before the MAF. If the engine doesn't die, it's drawing air in from an alternative source&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;oil dipstick test&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the engine running at idle, remove the dipstick. If there is no change in engine RPM or idle, the engine is drawing air from an unmetered location&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;monitor fuel trims&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically the long-term fuel-trims (LTFT's). If they are positive and high, chances are your car is running with unmetered air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that unmetered air could also be caused by an underreading MAF. You'll also have to confirm that insufficient fuel supply is not an issue.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smoke test&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal the intake plumbing and introduce smoke to see if it billows out from any holes or cracks. If smoke can be seen, that is where the unmetered air is being pulled from.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T19:37:02.653" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:37:02.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24152" CreationDate="2016-01-03T20:45:28.940" Score="5" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have noticed that whilst driving there is a very high pitched whining coming from the front of the car. On closer visual inspection with the engine running I opened the bonnet to try to locate where the noise was coming from. The sound seemed to be originating from around the alternator, near where the cam belt is. It has been getting louder recently and the car is due for a new cam belt in 3000 miles or so. The noise remains constant as I turn the wheels so presumably it isn't the power steering pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone clarify what is actually the problem or how to go about diagnosing it? I have had the EPC light come on on the dash board which I presume is due to one of the engine parts being faulty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T23:16:30.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T11:44:52.670" Title="2004 VW Passat B5 Peculiar Engine Noise" Tags="|engine|vw|noise|passat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T21:14:24.687" Score="14" ViewCount="4201" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is meant by the term &quot;fuel trim&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are they so important in diagnosing engine operation issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do short-term fuel trims differ from long-term fuel trims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T12:47:39.587" Title="What exactly are fuel trims?" Tags="|diagnostics|terminology|fuel-trims|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24149" CreationDate="2016-01-03T21:14:24.687" Score="16" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Motivation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trims are a neat mechanism employed by auto manufacturers to reduce the sensitivity of fuel management to operational deviations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern-day fuel-injection systems rely on inputs from many sensors that expect several engine sub-systems to be in tip-top condition. With use and age, many of these sub-systems will experience some degree of degradation, sudden or gradual, that result in the fuel management obtaining a false picture of how the engine is operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such key parameter that the fuel management has to maintain during engine operation is the target AFR (air-to-fuel ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of fuel-injection management systems is that they don't have to rely solely on sensory input to determine the quantity of fuel which needs to be injected. By using via feedback from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23933/how-do-lambda-sensors-work&quot;&gt;lambda sensors&lt;/a&gt;, the fuel management can determine the level of deviation in AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of compensation effected during closed-loop operation is commonly referred to as &quot;fuel trim&quot; (because the fuel injector pulsewidth is controlled (&quot;trimmed&quot;) by the fuel-injection management).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not uncommon for vehicles to accommodate up to ± 20% fuel trim (&lt;strike&gt;± 30 %&lt;/strike&gt; ±  40 % on some vehicles) before giving up the ghost and throwing an error code/CEL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Definitions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A fuel trim of 1.00 or 0% means that there is zero compensation taking place via closed-loop feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;negative fuel trim&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. 0.95 or -5%) means that the fuel injector pulsewidth is being shortened by 5% with respect to what the value should be based on sensor inputs to maintain the target AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;positive fuel trim&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. 1.05 or +5%) means that the fuel injector pulsewidth is being lengthened by 5% in order to maintain target AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Short-term fuel trims (STFT's)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; refer to the instantaneous fuel trim correction being applied by the engine management in response to rapid changes in throttle and load.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Long-term fuel trims (LTFT's)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; refer to corrections that are &quot;memorized&quot; by the engine management. This will factor in operational deviations like an leak in the intake tract or degraded MAF sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Vital Signs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trims can be thought of as a vital sign of any fuel management system, much like blood pressure and heart rate is for humans. It can be tracked through most, if not all, OBD-II compliant passenger cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By connecting the vehicle to a scan tool it is possible to access live fuel trim data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right signals sent from a scan tool, it is also possible to reset fuel trims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17437/675&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, the Freeze Frame for a P0300 code reported the following fuel trims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1          |      11.72% |&#xA;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2          |       7.03% |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of STFT correction is an indication that the code was set while the engine was running in open-loop mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LTFT's show that Bank 1 requires more correction than Bank 2; both banks are showing that the average pulsewidth needs to be increased more than what the sensors read in order to maintain target AFR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T12:47:39.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24148" CreationDate="2016-01-03T21:22:41.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diagnosing noises when you're thousands of miles away isn't going to be easy, but here are a few tips to help you out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;remove the serpentine belt and run the engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise stops, you know that the noise source is something that is running off the serpentine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;inspect the belt for loss of tension&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose belts are notorious for squealing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;spin the pulleys by hand&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pulleys should spin relatively easily without any binding. Binding would indicate that a bearing has gone bad and could cause noise&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;use a stethoscope&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a mechanic's stethoscope personally, but this is a good way to pinpoint the cause for the ruckus&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:22:41.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2016-01-03T21:22:56.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I'm no mechanic, but I have been doing lots of Jeep forum research and have fixed quite a few things on mine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Sport and had a similar issue: intermittent dim lights, battery not charging all the time, and getting stuck with a dead battery out of nowhere. (Wife not happy.) I looked for shorts, with chafing in the front door &amp;amp; rear hatch harnesses being common, and replaced the battery (was fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is simply corrosion in the battery lugs. Chrysler used an arguably too small gauge for the battery &amp;amp; starter wiring harness and corrosion works it's way inside the cables coming out of the battery lugs. The quick answer is to cut off the old lugs, wirebrush the underlying wires to a good shine (making sure to separate the strands), and then putting on new lugs. Even then it's a good idea to shine them again every 6 months to a year, at least I've had to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous owner had already replaced the lugs on mine and everything &lt;em&gt;looked&lt;/em&gt; fine. Once I unbolted the wires from the lugs, I could see the corrosion. A 10 minute wire brushing solved all the weird electrical issues. The longer term fix is to replace the battery and starter harness with a larger gauge. There are a few people selling them online (&lt;a href=&quot;http://custombatterycables.com/application/jeep_cherokee_cables.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's one&lt;/a&gt;) and they are generally made from welding cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14032" LastEditorUserId="14032" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T21:33:30.117" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:33:30.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24158" CreationDate="2016-01-03T23:30:30.630" Score="6" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the cheapest fuels in a place like Tesco's and the 'high quality', highly priced competitors? Is there actually any noticeable difference in available power, engine smoothness, efficiency, maintenance costs etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've always used the cheapest I can just because I don't know what the difference is that I would be paying for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone justify their use of an expensive fuel having had a bad experience with a cheap fuel in their car in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T14:26:45.597" Title="Cheap vs Expensive Fuels" Tags="|engine|maintenance|fuel-consumption|performance|emissions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T15:29:15.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24157" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:23:11.483" Score="9" ViewCount="59302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Sentra 2014. I wanted to start using full synthetic oil, and the manual said I should use 0W-20. I changed both the oil and the filter (I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobiloil.com/en/oil-filters/performance-oil-filters&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), and after finishing I realized I used 0W-30 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about changing it again tomorrow, but I'm not sure if I can use that one, and wait some miles before changing it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it serious? When should I change it? Also, should I change the oil filter again as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14033" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T21:50:59.370" Title="I used 0W-30 instead of 0W-20. Is it serious?" Tags="|oil|nissan|oil-change|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:33:20.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your vehicle. Most are tuned to use regular fuel, which hovers around the 87 octane rating. If your vehicle is turbo or supercharger then it should use a higher octane rating. Refer to the user's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real difference? None. Some sell fuel with additives that &quot;help&quot; with keeping your fuel system &quot;clean&quot;. But I have never seen any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T00:33:20.203" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24155" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:38:04.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a serious issue. You can probably even get by using 0W-30, especially since you are in an area which is usually warm. If you were in a colder area up north somewhere, I'd highly suggest you change it out. If you do decide to change it out, don't worry too much about the filter. I'd take the filter down and drain out what's in it, but put some clean oil back on the gasket and put it back in. The little bit of leftover 0W-30 is not going to cause any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the issues with running a heavier weight oil is that your bearing clearances are set by the factory to accept the thinner oil. By having the thicker oil in the crankcase, you run the risk of bearing damage. I think with where you live the chance is mighty small, but it's still there. If your car is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; new, I'd highly suggest you change the oil out. When a car is newer, the bearing tolerances are even tighter. Seeing as how your car is a 2014, there has probably been at least three or four oil changes done to it, so it shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T00:38:04.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:39:39.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasoline is made in large batches. Each batch has a number of attributes that should be met; Octane, specific chemistry, volatility, contaminates, ethanol content, and others. The output is dependent on the crude that went into the refinery and the processes the refiner has at hand to process it. Refineries vary in there capabilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are over 60 different fuel variations required by government regulation in the US. These are formulated to help with air pollution concerns that vary by region, mostly, but not always due to average weather conditions. Regulators require an average quality across many batches. So that means there are batches that do not meet standard. These are often purchased by low price marketers who then pass on the &quot;savings&quot;. Batches are often in the 2 million liter range.  Also the brand specific detergent additives are put in at the truck level only in those loads headed for specific retail stations. These additives are expensive and usually not used in the thrift-ed brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, there are many differences and the answer is, as is often the case, It Depends!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T00:39:39.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24160" CreationDate="2016-01-04T00:55:18.040" Score="9" ViewCount="7387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an electrical or automobile engineer, so pardon my ignorance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eobd2.net/wholesale/obd2-car-window-closer-buick-cruze-canbus-keyless-emergency-remotely-controller.html&quot;&gt;this product&lt;/a&gt; in the market to auto close power windows for certain brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can we send signals to the CAN bus using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot;&gt;OBD&lt;/a&gt; interface? Does the automobile manufacturer expose such an API?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another related question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we find out, using OBD, whether power windows/sunroof is open or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14037" OwnerDisplayName="rp1980" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T21:06:40.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:06:40.450" Title="Is it possible to auto close the power window of a car using OBD and CAN bus?" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24159" CreationDate="2016-01-04T01:31:15.437" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything depends on if the manufacturer multiplexed the windows or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, General Motors tends to multiplex their windows. This means that every door has a module inside it. The module controls the window, door lock, power mirror, etc... and takes inputs from door lock and window switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing to pass through the door jam is power ground and network lines (mostly). When the driver pushes a button for the passenger window, the driver door module senses the switch input and sends a signal over the network to the passenger door module. The passenger door module then rolls down the window. With this kind of setup, a message can be generated on the network that will move a window. To be very clear, this is not an OBD standard function; it is specific to the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This interface is exposed on the network for diagnostics. I have personally rolled windows up and down with a scan tool. Unless the windows have position switches built in, then no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the windows are hardwired then it is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T20:44:05.250" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:44:05.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22904" CreationDate="2016-01-04T01:55:01.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking on this and what could be done. I don't know exactly what the space is called, but I have another idea for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take some larger (whatever size you need for the main hole) nuts, align them, then weld them together. You can put how many ever you need together to make them the right width. You can also grind the ends down to make them exactly the right width. Then once all is together, drill the holes on the flat sides to create the secondary holes you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a smaller diameter bolt which will go all the way through without interfering with the threads, you can basically bolt the nuts together using flat washers on the ends. This would allow you to align everything and weld it up without too much hassle. Either run a bead down the flats on three sides of your spacer, or you could run beads around 5/6ths of the nuts, creating a firm weld while leaving one of the flat sides clean for drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T01:55:01.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24136" CreationDate="2016-01-04T02:49:33.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers have well covered how cams are inspected. This case history makes me wonder if the tech who took this engine apart damaged that cam in some way. The quick discount is suspicious. Dealer techs are mostly paid per job and they move fast. This is a low pay job that would not have been wanted in the shop. Explaining why the service dept has to buy an expensive part to a tough, cost conscious boss, is no fun; better to sell it to the customer as failed. This does not happen often, but the temptation is high and the risk low. It does happen. If this is my engine I want that cam so me or my expert can inspect it before proceeding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have repaired hundreds of overheated engines. Warped heads are very rare, say 1 in 2000, I have never seen a heat damaged cam. The first damage seen would most likely be oil boiling out of the bearing surfaces causing metal to metal contact damage. Heat damage that was enough to warp the head would almost certainly have destroyed the piston rings also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T04:15:08.710" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T04:15:08.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24219" CreationDate="2016-01-04T03:56:51.237" Score="6" ViewCount="3243" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I changed my BMW X3 2008 battery at home the &lt;code&gt;4x4&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;AirBag&lt;/code&gt; light is on. Any ideas why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some people &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458022&quot;&gt;claim&lt;/a&gt; that changing BMW x3 battery is not straight forward, however, they don't explicitly mention what, exactly, is different compared to regular cars.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T04:23:29.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T07:11:27.803" Title="AirbBag and 4x4 light is on after changing BMW X3 battery. Why?" Tags="|battery|maintenance|bmw|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24165" CreationDate="2016-01-04T07:15:49.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard battery is an absorbed glass mat type (AGM). It is to be &quot;registered&quot; with a scan tool. If this is not done the vehicle can adjust to the new battery on its own. When the battery registration procedure is not performed several effects are seen; they include trouble codes in modules or the system can be put into &quot;transport mode&quot; in which whole systems can be disabled. The most common is that the hvac system is disabled. A battery saver should not be used on these vehicles as it will most likely blow the fuse for module memories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW is trying to use this system to predict when the battery reaches near the end of its useful life. It is called the &quot;intelligent battery system&quot;. A regular lead acid battery can be installed but you must tell the computer that you switched types. In more recent years they have improved the system further; it now requires a genuine BMW battery and they removed the switch to lead acid option at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T07:11:27.803" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T07:11:27.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24182" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:03:43.980" Score="8" ViewCount="82846" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was able to find information on testing the ATF temperature sensor in the GF4A-EL manual I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5k8c.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5k8c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find any info on the normal operating temperature of the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that normal operating temperature would be pretty similar across all ATX's, like it is for engines.  IIRC, the highest I saw on mine was about 60*C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T16:04:28.413" Title="Normal Operating Temp for an Automatic Transmission" Tags="|automatic-transmission|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:21:34.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it, the 'premium' brands will have the fuel mixed to their own specifications, which may include particular detergents, additives etc. The cheaper brands will simply buy whatever is cheapest - so the Tesco one could be identical to Shell one week (if Shell happened to have a surplus), BP the next, a mixture of things the week after, and so on. As Fed Wilson says, often they will by the stuff that didn't make the grade for the premium suppliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as Fred says, 'it depends' - but the premium fuel will be more consistent, generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:21:34.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24136" CreationDate="2016-01-04T10:43:12.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly a seriously over heated cam, maybe from a lack of oil. Serious overheating could do this, but could also allow an oil leak in the feed to the head (possibly leaking internally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many years ago I had a motorcycle engine where the loss of an O ring resulted in low oil pressure (but not low enough to trigger the oil pressure warning light). While it killed the crank, the cams were also heavily blued from the lack of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:43:12.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T12:27:30.337" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought new car and I added battery water to level. But some spilled on the engine and one of pipe got effected and it has rust on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to mechanic, he told me to apply diesel on it. I did, but still I can see the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help and I am adding images as requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9Xv9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine pipe rust&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9Xv9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;below engine rust&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13972" LastEditorUserId="13972" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T16:07:30.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:07:30.160" Title="New Case - Watered the battery and got rust on one of the engine pipe" Tags="|battery|car|rust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24172" CreationDate="2016-01-04T13:31:37.623" Score="13" ViewCount="7710" Body="&lt;p&gt;My device needs to know when a car engine/ignition is started and stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get that status using OBD2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, which PID will give me that information? Do I need to write any car-specific logic in my device to support this feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14037" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T13:42:42.603" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T14:17:02.487" Title="How to detect engine/ignition (on/off) status using OBD2?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24171" CreationDate="2016-01-04T14:17:02.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything depends on exactly what your looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If engine running/not running is sufficient then check the RPM. If RPM is non zero, the engine is running. If the RPM is zero or no communication then the engine is not running. This can be easily done in the OBD stream. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want anything more than that you need manufacturer specific and then not everyone is going to support it. If a car has a soft ignition switch then it is connected to some module that reads it's position and turns on relays to power up the car. It would be a matter of accessing that module for the data. If the car has a hard ignition switch that actually controls power to the car directly then at most a &quot;cranking active&quot; pid may be available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T14:17:02.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18919" CreationDate="2016-01-04T14:24:33.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;depends&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, Direct Injection systems (both gas and diesel) are usually more sensitive to a deviation in fuel pressure from the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T14:24:33.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-01-04T14:26:45.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the United States, if you are buying a listed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toptiergas.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top Tier&lt;/a&gt; gasoline, all other quality differences (within grade) are inconsequential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to note, it is possible that gasoline not listed as Top Tier could be high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T14:26:45.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:04:38.057" Score="10" ViewCount="25547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Control Module Voltage (from OBD Mode 01 PID 42) and battery voltage the same? If not, what is the relation between them?&#xA;Why is the max value of Control Module Voltage (from OBD Mode 01 PID 42) as 65.535 V, when the battery voltage can at max be 14 V in a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T03:38:22.197" Title="Is control module voltage and battery voltage the same?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24175" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:19:17.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine is running, the voltage &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; track the alternator/voltage regulator output (which is also the battery charging voltage). When the engine is not running, it will track the battery voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only speculate on the reason for the wide voltage range. Unregulated alternator output can exceed 48V, so it could be a useful diagnostic datum. Or, it may just be an artifact of the digital encoding, that the value range exceeds what is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T15:23:47.850" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:23:47.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24170" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:31:07.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue is probably cosmetic. Perhaps in a decade or two the exhaust system will rust away, but since water is a byproduct of combustion, your system will have plenty of rust from the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this some highly valuable show car? If not, it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it bothers you, you can apply Naval Jelly, rinse thoroughly, sand lightly, and then apply Header or Exhaust Paint in the color of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:31:07.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24175" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:40:12.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you're seeing is just an artifact of the way computers work.  The number you give is just 65535 with a decimal inserted into it.  That is a special number to computers - it's the largest value that can be held in a 16-bit (2 bytes) integer.  So, simply put, that is the largest value that can be returned for that particular measurement because of the computer variable they decided to use.  It's figment of the programming - they don't expect it to ever measure 65 volts.  If this was a value that could be positive or negative, you might see a maximum value of 32,767.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another number you might see a lot is 255.  This is the maximum value of an 8-bit (single byte) unsigned number.  If the value can be positive or negative, the max value is 127.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T13:48:59.050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:48:59.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24175" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:41:13.143" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Looks like the issue is with the incoming signal.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your vehicle comes equipped with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DeLorean_time_machine#Flux_capacitor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flux capacitor&lt;/a&gt;, 65 V across battery is a bit too much. Even heavy trucks don't run that voltage to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;65535 is the max unsigned 16-bit integer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OBD-II&lt;/a&gt; wiki page it looks like the formula used by the OBD-II PID as per SAE J1979 is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;( A * 256 + B ) / 1000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where A is the first two bytes, B is the next two bytes. If A and B are both 255 (so 11111111 in binary) you will get the max possible voltage, 65.535 V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this result is from a simulator, I'd pin the blame there. If this is the signal coming from a real vehicle, I'd check for an ECU short (not sure though). Make sure you're polling the right address to rule that out as a possibility for the unusual voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control module voltage is the voltage supplied to the ECU. It isn't battery voltage but is usually close enough when the vehicle is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T15:24:23.557" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T15:24:23.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24175" CreationDate="2016-01-04T15:49:52.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Control Module Voltage is the battery voltage, minus any volts drop in the wiring between the battery and the ECU. 65535 is a full 16 bit register. The ECU will probably work with integer numbers (computes faster) but convert the final output of it's calculations for OBD into 'floating point' or 'real' form (numbers that can use decimal points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the maximum is not 65535, 6553.5 or 655.35 is that with the decimal point placed two from the left it allows the greatest accuracy in the integer stage of calculation while providing enough places to the left of the decimal to display all likely values. It essentially allows the ECU to work to 3 decimal places in integers. Perhaps not that important for battery voltage but I assume that's the principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may not have been the facility to artificially apply a maximum value less than 65535 but even if there was I see no advantage doing so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:49:52.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2016-01-04T16:16:52.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intermotive.net/Tech%20Tip/Tech%20Tip%20-%20July%2006.pdf&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normal operating temperature for an automatic transmission is about the&#xA;  same as the engine temperature, i.e., about 195°F. The temperature inside the torque converter, while pulling a big load from a standing start, could easily rise above 350°F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITORY NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm seeing this same basic range at many different sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T16:16:52.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22904" CreationDate="2016-01-04T16:18:21.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same parts often have vendor-specific names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't help but thinking that internal threading is optional, if you have room for a nut and lock washer on the far side. If this is the case, a trip to the plumbing store and a hacksaw will complete your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T16:18:21.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2016-01-04T16:50:41.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The critical thing is to keep ATF temperatures less than the oxidation temperature for the given ATF. For high performance or towing vehicles, a large external radiator helps maintain a moderate temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All transmissions work best with warm ATF, and some are more sensitive to cold than others. For this reason most vehicles pump the ATF through a tube in the bottom of the engine cooling radiator. It serves two purposes, one to warm up the ATF, the other to cool it. While 130F radiator fluid may hardly seem &quot;cool&quot; to a human, it is cooler than hot ATF in severe service conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chart (with little to no sourcing information) that gives you some idea how hot ATF runs is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://v8sho.com/SHO/ATFTempChart.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://v8sho.com/SHO/ATFTempChart.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link gives some idea how ATF's are tested: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intertek.com/automotive/atf/oxidation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.intertek.com/automotive/atf/oxidation/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T17:05:25.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:05:25.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23980" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:15:25.567" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil spilled on exhaust during the Oil Change (as mentioned in the&#xA;comments by DucatiKiller). This can be new oil from filling, or old&#xA;oil from the drain and/or filter replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overfilling with replacement oil can result in burn-off. Check the oil level, check multiple reliable sources for the correct fill amount, and check the PCV valve and hose(s).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A loose oil cap can spew oil during operation, which will eventually&#xA;reach the exhaust system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A loose oil filter will drip or spray under pressure, also the drain&#xA;plug. Check both.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may have removed or disconnected one end of a hose during the&#xA;service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may have filled (over-filled) the wrong part of the vehicle with&#xA;the replacement oil. Check all your fluids for level and&#xA;cross-contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Least likely, your vehicle may have experienced a failure of some&#xA;kind at about the time of the oil change service. The failure could be internal like piston rings or valve guides, or an oil containment system such as the rear main seal or the valve cover gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:15:25.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17173" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:32:28.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible your radio has simply failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, your options include finding a junkyard radio (check the glove box for the code, otherwise back to the dealer), or putting in an aftermarket radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:32:28.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:36:28.790" Score="3" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why does a 1998 Nissan Sentra Automatic transmission change to neutral from reverse while going  downhill?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just started a couple of weeks ago. The engine shut off the first couple of times it happened. I restarted the engine and worked the shifter back and forth until it engaged in drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14049" LastEditorUserId="14049" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:29:51.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T22:23:42.660" Title="1998 Nissan Sentra transmission" Tags="|transmission|nissan|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16666" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:47:44.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many things can lead to this condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a home mechanic to diagnose, some possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low ATF level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn engine/transmission mounts or shift cable can also cause the&#xA;shift mechanism to &quot;downshift&quot; one notch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged ATF coolant hose or filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities are harder to diagnose without specialty instruments, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticky valve body.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn clutches.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it has a locking converter,&#xA;there are some associated sensor(s) and actuator(s) that could be&#xA;suspect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:47:44.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12600" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:54:07.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have an intermittent break. The problem is, tracking it down to where?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Radios typically have two +12V sources, 1 constant and one switched via wire, and a chassis ground via bolt and/or wire. The issue will very likely be found in one of these three connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility is pin backing. Sometimes when a multi-pin connector is pushed in place, one of the pins will back out and barely make contact. Visually examine the back of the connector, and also the height of all pins in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is a loose or flaky fuse or fuse box connection, but your experience with reseating the radio connector argues against this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:54:07.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17791" CreationDate="2016-01-04T18:04:41.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fan may be partly jammed by leaves or a rodent nest in the fan area. Check the fan housing and cabin air filter for contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have a bad fan motor control resister pack, bad relays, or a bad blower motor. If this is the case, these issues are usually easier to diagnose than problems with the A/C itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the electric blower motor is going bad, it may come to rest in spots in its rotation where it takes more current to start than other spots. In this case, putting it on &quot;high&quot; and/or banging on it may cause it to start spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:04:41.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18196" CreationDate="2016-01-04T18:21:28.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes small vacuum leaks can be partially compensated by modern engine systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old trick is to spray carb cleaner, water, or anything else that will affect idle around all the suspect hoses. If the engine surges or stumbles when you spray, you have a vacuum leak. Try more than one type of spray one suppressing (like water), one boosting (any flammable volatile organic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake vacuum booster (assuming you have one) can hide a vacuum leak inside, or even feed the engine brake fluid in extreme cases. Remove the booster vacuum hose, let it run open and plugged, and see if that changes engine operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:21:28.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19563" CreationDate="2016-01-04T18:23:26.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the idle air controller actuation and internals, it may be stuck in one position, or clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the IAC is stuck in an open position, it can recycle too much oxygen depleted exhaust to the intake and kill the engine. If clogged it can throw engine management out of wack. You'll find the IAC connecting the exhaust to the intake in some way, and it will have a control valve that is either vacuum or electrically actuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On review, partially clogged fuel injectors, or low fuel pressure can also cause your symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T20:56:06.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:56:06.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:18:49.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can take the speaker from the side that is functioning and test the other speaker wire with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the other speaker works, you know you need a new speaker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the speaker doesn't work then you can check the wire at the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to check the wire, you can turn on the radio and check the voltage at the wire (12volt) and see if you are getting any power there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you are not getting power I would check the wire at the radio, which involves pulling it out of the dash maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:18:49.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18137" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:21:48.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get one of these devices and pull any air out of the brake system that you can.  It can be more effective than bleeding the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you ensure all of the air is out of your brake lines you may find it's resolved.  If not, you will need to troubleshoot from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit is that you will know it's not air in your lines which is the first thing to rule out if you don't have obvious leaks observable from visual inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The device below is a brake fluid vacuum.  They vary in cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You attach the device to the bleeding nipple on your caliper and create a vacuum in the line that draws the fluid out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of a brake fluid vacuum&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVlxq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVlxq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Be careful that you keep the reservoir full of brake fluid while you perform the operation, it get's pulled out quickly and you don't want to get any air in the system.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ensure you don't get brake fluid on any car paint, it will eat it up in short order.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:31:13.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:31:13.950" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21738" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:40:46.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar issues with putting videos on SD cards on both a Kenwood and a Jensen. The answer (for me) lay in the encoding, not the wrapper (in your case, the wrapper is WVM). I had to back off from H.264 and MPEG4 down to MPEG2 in order to get videos that would play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discussion: Apparently licensing codecs costs money, and few people use these features. I guess most just play DVD's? Anyway when I tried to pursue it on auto A/V forums, the silence was deafening. Apparently video transcoding and auto A/V installation are not commonly overlapping competencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:40:46.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:49:22.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you got a bad batch of fuel and have some water in your fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a fuel additive with alcohol in order to get the water 'mixed in' with the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also put the highest octane fuel in your car and try and drive through it, results may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local auto parts store can recommend the additive they carry to get the water out of the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't helpful you have to begin troubleshooting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:49:22.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22944" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:51:55.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think worn-out rubber. Sway bar end bushings, sway bar (middle) bushings, shock absorber bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn out U-Joint or CV joint can also cause tick and thump noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:51:55.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16663" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:55:39.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet this has to do with the vacuum assist for the blend door. It probably has a leak or there is a leak in the vacuum line which actuates it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From my limited understanding, the vacuum assist only determines which vents the air will be blown through, not what type of air will be blown through those vents. But I could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern vehicles have a vacuum diaphragm which actuates the blend door. If you flip your hot/cold back and forth and hear a vacuum change happening, you know that's what it is. It's either that or the blend door itself is flapping in the breeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with how the whole heating system works, but I do know that my particular vehicle model uses a motor directly attached to the blend door to open and close it. Would that replace the vacuum diaphragm you're talking about, or is that something entirely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Exactly what I'm talking about. Some manufacturers use electric motors. Some use vacuum diaphragms. Others just use a push rod attached to the heat knob. That's where I'd start. Problem is, you have to take the whole stinkin' dash apart (from the bottom) to get to it in most vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:55:39.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23908" CreationDate="2016-01-04T19:57:48.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend my combo, the app &lt;a href=&quot;http://torque-bhp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Torque Pro&lt;/a&gt; for display on a Bluetooth enabled phone or tablet, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.in/ELM327-Wireless-Reader-Scanner-adapter/dp/B00C4QNBAO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluetooth ODBII Reader&lt;/a&gt; like my BAFX Elm327 to get the data. Torque Pro has configurable on-screen real-time gauges. The data it can display is only limited by your vehicle's ODBII implementation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T01:42:42.263" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T01:42:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18198" CreationDate="2016-01-04T20:00:00.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a wrench which looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raybK.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raybK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a type of crowsfoot wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:00:00.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-04T20:45:52.977" Score="3" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Chevy Suburban that had no heat in the front or rear at idle. I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4805/impala-no-heat-at-idle&quot;&gt;mechanics stack exchange article&lt;/a&gt;, discovered I was low on coolant and now I have heat in the front when idle but still no heat in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts would be appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14051" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:54:15.153" Title="2004 V8 LT Chevy Suburban No Heat at Idle" Tags="|chevrolet|heater|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24204" CreationDate="2016-01-04T20:46:22.810" Score="6" ViewCount="30206" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I drained the radiator on a 99 Monte Carlo.&#xA;Owner's manual states that it should take 11.6 quarts  (2.85 gallons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the petcock, flushed the system by running a hose into the top and running the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran the engine and watched the temperature with the hose running non-stop into the radiator and the petcock open and the water running through.&#xA;Finally, when the engine came up to normal temp I turned on the heater full blast and could feel heat, making sure the thermostat opened up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I shut it all off.  Turned off the hose.  Left the petcock open and waited another 20 minutes until the radiator was completely drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I went to fill the radiator with premixed 50/50 coolant, but when I did the radiator filled up before even the first gallon was empty.  Probably about 3/4 of a gallon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I capped the radiator up, started it up and checked again later but it seems to still be full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you think of any reasons that might occur?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is the manual wrong?  Does it only take 1 gallon or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think there might've still been water in the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible there was still water in the engine block or however that works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I did drain the overflow and there wasn't any in there either. I filled it back to the cold line with antifreeze/coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T20:53:34.917" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T10:15:38.987" Title="What is the average radiator capacity on 6 cylinder engines?" Tags="|chevrolet|radiator|overheating|flush|monte-carlo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24203" CreationDate="2016-01-04T20:54:12.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once your system expels as much fluid as it can via the pump there is still an additional amount of fluid that is left in the block and other areas that the pump can't push out because there isn't enough fluid and pump is just attempting to push air through the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some engines have block drain plugs.  You would need to remove those, allow to drain and reinstall them....but your vehicle apparently doesn't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @rpmerf indicated, you can get a specific gravity test tool at the auto parts store, it's called a hyrdrometer.  Hydrometers only work for Ethylene Glycol based coolant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Propylene Glycol can't be read by a hydrometer, up to 70% concentration specific gravity increases, above 70% SG decreases.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T21:37:12.500" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:37:12.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24202" CreationDate="2016-01-04T20:54:15.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to purge your cooling system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack or ramps. Driving up a sidewalk works too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the engine cool (when you touch it it should be cold): Remove the radiator cap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn on the heater.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accelerate the engine to 1500-2000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will see the coolant level go down and/or bubbles. Pour in some new coolant until the bubbles stop and the level does not decrease. This might take a couple of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn engine off. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat in 30 minutes if you are obsessive. Otherwise put the radiator cap back on. You are done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats happening is that you have air in the system. That air is not letting the rear heater core receive hot coolant. By purging it you are removing air trapped in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: If you have pets (dog or cat): Don't let them drink the coolant that might fall on the floor. It is lethal for them. It smells sweet and they will be tempted to drink it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:54:15.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19447" CreationDate="2016-01-04T21:02:58.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try plugging the business end of the solenoid? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I checked vacuum before and after the valve and at the main line to the heater control behind the glove box. With the valve disconnected and the line plugged I have good vacuum. With the valve in place normally I have poor vacuum at most all points. Problem is I don't have any real way to check the 4WD system right now with the valve disconnected. I'd need to find some nice mud somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the valve is what actuates the hubs, yet you replaced the hubs with Warn manual hubs, why would you still need the valve? Plug the holes and don't worry about it until you can get to somewhere you can test it, but ultimately I doubt you'll need the valve again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:02:58.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19220" CreationDate="2016-01-04T21:04:27.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need to start by just guessing and reassembling the head with the valve train and all components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once complete you would need to measure all of the clearances and document it.  From there you would need to begin to remove the cams and shuffle the buckets based upon your documentation and best guess, reassemble and measure again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to wash, rinse, repeat this method until you have it nailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a rough answer but the only thing I can think of doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that I've never run into the problem.  This is the first thing that came into my head and honestly hope there is a better method.  What I proposed with a wash, rinse, repeat method is a real grind.  I think it could be somewhat successful but you would probably have, at least some, of the buckets not in their corresponding holes.  That said, there's a rumor you have a method.  Would love to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T08:47:56.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:47:56.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24210" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:12:10.820" Score="9" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) and how is it used in camshaft design? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is it measured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What difference does a long or short LSA make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T23:18:47.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T21:07:03.317" Title="What is Lobe Separation Angle (LSA)?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|automotive-design|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24187" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:23:42.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly check for leaks under the car, and look at the pavement where you park, but low fluid is a big cause of slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check your fluid level, find the section in your owners manual and follow the steps.  I say that because each manufacturer might have slight differences, but in general, the steps are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive the car around neighborhood streets until the engine is up to normal operating temperature.  This is to exercise the transmission in several gears and warm up the fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car, apply the parking brake, and while your foot is on the main brake, slowly change into each possible gear with the shift lever slowly, pausing in each gear for a few seconds.  Return the shift lever to Park.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the hood, and leave the car running.  Assume everything under the hood is too hot to touch, so test everything before grabbing.  Also watch out for fans, belts and other rotating objects.  Avoid scarves, necklaces, or loose clothes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the transmission dip stick, remove it, wipe it with a clean cloth, and put it back in.  Pull it back out and read the level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's low, you'll need to add it 1/4 to 1/2 quart at a time until the level reaches the correct level.  Don't just dump in a whole quart unless you know it needs it.  Transmissions shouldn't leak and they don't &quot;use oil&quot; like some engines, so it shouldn't be very low, if low at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers don't recommend checking your own fluid, because they're worried about the liability of a customer working on a running engine.  That's a valid concern, so be careful, but as long as you are comfortable with it, you can normally do it on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T22:23:42.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24208" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:30:38.033" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lobe separation angle is affects overlap between the intake and exhaust valves which can effect emissions, performance and efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example of Lobe Separation Angle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuaSp.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuaSp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measurement of Lobe Separation Angle&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Measurement would be done with a degree wheel on the crank and dial indicator on the cam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measurement occurs between the MAXIMUM lift of the intake and exhaust valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lobe separation angles effects valve overlap is an essential attribute of cams being used for various applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, you may have very little valve overlap or an increased lobe separation angle for a reduced emissions vehicle whereas a decreased lobe separation angle may be used for a higher performance, higher RPM engine in racing where emissions from too much valve overlap are not a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased lobe separation angles will leave the intake valve hanging open a bit as the exhaust valve opens creating a situation where the intake charge flushes out the combustion chamber of spent exhaust gasses for a better intake charge free of CO and CO2.  This will increase hydrocarbon releases as some of the intake charge will escape into the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Images&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Degree Wheel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjZ1E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjZ1E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dial Indicator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dL5uX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dL5uX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T21:07:03.317" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T21:07:03.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24226" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:54:05.943" Score="7" ViewCount="4490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not well versed in diesel engines.  To prove my point, I've learned in the last month that a two-stroke diesel engine actually exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What kind of diesel engine (four-stroke or two-stroke) is most commonly used in heavy vehicles that we all see roaming about the surface of the planet?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the reason a two-stroke or four-stroke engine would be the most used in a particular application?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that a two-stroke diesel engine would have a higher emissions footprint, regarding hydrocarbons, than a four-stroke diesel engine due to the way that two-strokes function but this is an assumption on my part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:34:06.247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:34:06.247" Title="Two-Stroke vs. Four-Stroke Diesel Engines - What is most commonly used in heavy vehicles?" Tags="|engine|diesel|engine-theory|two-stroke|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28207" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:01:50.170" Score="9" ViewCount="5994" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 (essentially a Ford Ranger) that almost never starts on the first attempt. Usually it takes 2 or 3 tries before the car finally turns over. Each time I hold in the crank I hear the starter engage and the engine whir but the car doesn't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried cycling the key to iginition on, waiting for a 10 seconds, then back to off several times to try and prime things but that does not seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran Seafoam through the gas lines to try and clear up any carbon deposits but this also has done nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken it to a mechanic twice, both times they were unable to reproduce the problem which blew my mind since it happens about 95% of the time I try to start the vehicle. They tested the fuel pressure and told me it was normal. This may be anecdotal, but I notice that if I stop the car and then start it again pretty soon (within 10-15 min) after it has a good chance of starting right away on the first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned my mass air flow sensor to no avail. As an added detail, when the car does start it usually begins right away or revs really low and then gets up to idle in a second or two. Sometimes it will rev low and shut off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see my response to my own question below. It was discovered that both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor were faulty and needed to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14054" LastEditorUserId="14054" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T23:08:04.460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T02:57:42.403" Title="Mazda B3000 (Ranger) Truck takes several tries to start?" Tags="|ford|starting|troubleshooting|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24218" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:08:17.267" Score="7" ViewCount="3262" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I have indicated before, I'm very diesel ignorant.  I just know the basics, very basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two-stroke diesel engine using forced induction seems necessary but at the same time I see challenges.  In motorcycles, which I have more knowledge in, the crank seals are an important component for the two-stroke engine process to function properly.  If there is an air leak at the crank it it's the same thing, if not worse, as having an air leak between the carb and the head.  The seals being nice and tight are essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are examples out there of forced induction two-stroke motorcycles but the modifications are extensive as the crank seals aren't designed for that high of a crankcase pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do two-stroke diesel engines commonly use forced induction systems like turbo chargers or superchargers?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that some kind of exhaust valving is essential as well in order to use back pressure as a regulator of exhaust gasses.  I'm thinking out loud here and not making a claim.  My other question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If so, what are some of the design considerations?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND my last question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would a mechanism for exhaust gas regulation include some kind a poppet valve as in a four-stroke engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that if above is the case then this would still be a two stroke but some type of hybrid design, using poppet valves.  Again, thoughts, not claims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:17:53.680" Title="Two-Stroke Diesel Engine - Do they use forced induction on them?" Tags="|engine|diesel|engine-theory|two-stroke|forced-induction|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12175" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:35:33.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;OP answered his own question in the comments but is not responding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the commented answer as THE answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;OP's Answer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Found the problem. The air cleaner housing is electrically isolated by being mounted on rubber bushings. Pinched beneath it and chaffed is the main alternator wire and the oil pressure wire. They were shorted together. The Alt wire is always hot and when the key is on the idiot light is a balance circuit and is not lit. Go figure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T23:35:33.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11388" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:50:35.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your air re-circulation does not automatically come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your salesperson is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;blowing smoke up your kilt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air re-circulation is controlled manually only.  This would be a warranty item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T23:50:35.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20992" CreationDate="2016-01-05T01:21:35.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP responded in the comments and stated the fix.  He primed the motor with carb spray to get it going.  Perhaps it had a mechanical fuel pump or needed the fuel rail primed in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OP's response as the fix in comments below&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Found out i need to spray some brake cleaner into the intake to prime the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T01:21:35.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24213" CreationDate="2016-01-05T01:34:16.890" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only two stroke diesel i'm aware of is the Detroit diesel. The Detroit diesel does use forced induction but not in the way that you think. From your description it sounds like your describing a two stroke gasoline engine. The engine draws in air into the crank case. Then compresses it and shoots it into the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup works well with gasoline because the air and fuel are drawn through the whole system. The lubrication in the system is provided by oil that is added to the fuel. As the air, oil and fuel mixture is drawn through the crank case it lubricates the rings and the crank bearings. In a diesel the air is lacking fuel and if oil is misted into the air the oil may ignite (it's a diesel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEo2t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEo2t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a Detroit diesel the crank case is filled with oil which provides lubrication for the needed components. When the piston reaches the bottom of travel the exhaust valves open and the piston exposes the port at the bottom of the cylinder sleeve. At this point the super charger pushes fresh air into the cylinder and pushes out the exhaust gases. The piston then rises up compressing the air. Then the injector fires and the piston is forced down with the power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I've never worked on a Detroit diesel generally diesel EGR systems are very similar. Exhaust gas is moved from the exhaust through an EGR cooler and then induced into the engine though some type of poppet valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T01:34:16.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24165" CreationDate="2016-01-05T03:21:57.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its common. Usually goes away in a day or less. If not, you need to have the truck reset by the dealer or bmw mechanic. This has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8558474&amp;amp;postcount=80&quot;&gt;explanation.&lt;/a&gt; Not your same model but it applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T03:21:57.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22956" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:13:23.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the sudden onset I would not be surprised if the mechanics forgot to reconnect something like an EGR hose or sensor connector that may have been removed in order to replace the engine mounts. A vacuum leak would explain this but it is just one of several possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:13:23.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24091" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:36:16.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This claim is my opinion.  I have no facts to back the claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could even be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;urban legend&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a plethora of articles recently, due to this question, regarding this subject.  It seems to be the consensus of some somewhat reputable sources that manufacturers will do testing with the lowest grade fuel to ensure that the vehicle does not knock/ping/diesel.  They do validate that the lower quality pump gas will work in there mass consumable vehicle.  If the vehicle didn't run on the lowest available pump gas for the lower end cost market, it would effect sales considerably and due to increase fueling cost they would run a high risk of having a negative effect on their margins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, they do all of their published testing using a higher grade fuel to eek out another mile per gallon in order to publicize and market against.  If their MPG was 1 mile higher than the competition then that could have a positive effect on their margins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Somebody know why they recommend to use grade 87 if they did not tested cars with this grade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;They do this to have the highest publishable and marketable MPG against their competition.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Again, this is my opinion.  I have no facts to back my claim.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:36:16.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23729" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:47:05.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not want to increase load to your dynamo.  I'm skeptical that you actually have that type of charging system but can't back my claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF it is a dynamo then I would do something in order to add your accessory lighting load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;- Replace your current headlight with an LED version, it will consume less electricity and give you room to add the accessory lighting.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I would add the accessory lighting but add it as LED in order to keep the load low on your dynamo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:47:05.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24233" CreationDate="2016-01-05T06:07:10.483" Score="15" ViewCount="3309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2013 Nissan Rogue. I live in Toronto, Canada, so it is very cold here right now. I understand that cold temperatures can cause the tire pressure light to come on, but will it actually affect the reading if I use a pressure gauge (I think that's what it's called) to check the tire pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the recommended PSI is about 40 I believe. On Saturday, the tire pressure in all four tires was pretty low so I filled them all up to 41. Now, after leaving my car outside for about two hours, the tire pressure light came on when I started up my vehicle, so I manually checked the pressure with the pressure gauge, and they were all about 30. Is this due to the cold temperatures or do I have a problem with my tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All help would be appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11116" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T23:45:47.163" Title="Cold temperatures and tire pressure light" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11388" CreationDate="2016-01-05T07:28:15.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An excerpt from the owner manual for the 2014 CRV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Controlling the source of air&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Recirculation Button controls the source of the air going through your climate control system. When in Recirculation Mode, air from the vehicle's interior is recirculated through the system. Use this mode when driving through smoky or dusty conditions, or when you need maximum A/C cooling. Keeping the system in Recirculation Mode, however, especially with the A/C off, can cause the windows to fog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mentions of system control of the recirc mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been talk of forced recirc mode in the engineering circles since it can improve mpg in some situations. This would happen only after the inside temp is lower than the outside when using A/C. CARB has considered mandating this mode, but I do think it has been implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T02:19:08.987" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:19:08.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24213" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:17:53.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Renault are developing a small 2 stroke diesel with turbo and supercharger.  It's name is the Renault 'Powerful' see for example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/12/renault-unveils-two-storke-twincharged-diesel-two-cylinder/&quot;&gt;http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/12/renault-unveils-two-storke-twincharged-diesel-two-cylinder/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:17:53.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24211" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:32:21.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most small(ish) diesel engines in cars, diggers, generators etc are 4-stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;The main reason being efficiency - Although a 2-stroke engine is technically capable of more power output, a 4-stroke engine uses less fuel to produce the same power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many VERY large diesel engines (EG Super-Tankers) are 2-stroke, This is because they are direct drive (propeller shaft attached directly to the crank with no gearing or clutch) these are classed a Low speed engines, and can burn much cheaper Heavy Fuel Oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="2314" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T08:38:08.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:38:08.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24285" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:58:37.683" Score="5" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced my Corsa Bakkie's cylinder head, changed plugs &amp;amp; oil, cleaned the petrol pump, replaced everything that I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is still a funny noise (like the sound when you put a card at your bicycle's wheel) and sometimes the smoke is white/grey/black ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please assist, I have been spending a fortune on it so far and is sure that I'm missing something stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T09:34:48.763" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:45:29.247" Title="Replaced a ton of parts - grey/white/black exhaust smoke and funny noise persist" Tags="|chevrolet|cylinder-head|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-05T09:13:16.527" Score="6" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiat Siena EL 2001 model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a starting problem, I'm really desperate to get it running again, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was starting and running but was jerking very bad when in 2nd gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic changed a coil pack and a sensor. When I went to check the car was not starting at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T12:48:31.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T12:48:31.777" Title="Fiat Siena EL 2001 was starting but jerking very bad whist running" Tags="|electrical|fiat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T09:53:42.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24230" CreationDate="2016-01-05T09:23:01.510" Score="10" ViewCount="34448" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one thing which I have asked many times on a car forum and never received a satisfactory response for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the engine block is somehow bolted onto an engine stand like the one pictured below, but I have some specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where do the bolts come from?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to buy them separately or can I use the same ones that mate the engine to the transmission bellhousing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to buy them what kind of bolts do I need to buy? Are they made of some special material or will regular bolts do?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where on the engine block do the bolts screw into?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite extensive research online, I have yet to figure out what part of the engine block is used to attach to the engine stand. Is it the crank snout? Very puzzled by this. Do different engines have different mounting points?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How does the same engine stand cater for different engines?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes see this adapter-esque X-plate, but the bolt holes seem to slide fixed relative to one another. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do you operate the rotation mechanism to turn the engine over?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can tell from this question, I've never used an engine stand to date :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3D0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3D0f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T09:32:18.317" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:14:39.037" Title="How to use an engine stand" Tags="|engine|tools|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24229" CreationDate="2016-01-05T10:04:40.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to either reuse the bolts that attach the gearbox (transmission) to the engine, or if these are the wrong length buy some new bolts with the same thread pitch but at the correct length. You may need some washers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As above, the stand will bolt to where the gearbox attaches to the engine. The part of the stand the engine actually bolts to is removable, so it can be attached with the engine on the ground or hanging from the crane. Then use your crane (or a few friends) to slide this part into the rotating assembly on the stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hWf1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hWf1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One stand will adjust to cater for a range of engines as the arms which attach to the engine are adjustable, but bear in mind the designed weight of the stand. Heavy duty versions are available for big diesels etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole assembly can be rotated with a handle and locked into position with a pin. More expensive versions have a geared rotation system that can be useful for fine adjustment or for heavy engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T10:14:39.037" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:14:39.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24659" CreationDate="2016-01-05T10:16:27.350" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I am planning to buy a used car in the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I judge the car is in good condition?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there a specific set of documents I should ask for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the tests I can conduct before deciding to buy the car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know if the price is worth it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if this is not the right place I should be asking this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14065" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T23:49:47.107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:10:34.343" Title="In the US, how do I tell if a car is in good condition?" Tags="|car|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2016-01-05T10:20:40.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to DucatiKiller's answer, it's also possible that the wires between the radio and speaker have failed - most likely at the point they pass from the car to the door. You could test this by disconnecting the speaker wires from the back of the radio and checking for continuity between there and the end the speaker plugs in to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common symptom of this is an intermittently working speaker, but it can also result in total failure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:20:40.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24223" CreationDate="2016-01-05T10:57:58.107" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Physics says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                T2&#xA;p2 = (p1+p0) * ----  - p0&#xA;                T1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have temperature &lt;code&gt;T1&lt;/code&gt; and pressure &lt;code&gt;p1&lt;/code&gt; when you filled the tires, you can calculate the new pressure &lt;code&gt;p2&lt;/code&gt; when the temperature changes to &lt;code&gt;T2&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since pressure is measured relative to ambient air pressure, you also need that pressure &lt;code&gt;p0&lt;/code&gt;. Though there are changes in ambient air pressure, they are usually not that large as it could play a role here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, pressure can be given in any unit (since you're using psi, &lt;code&gt;p0=14.7psi&lt;/code&gt; at sealevel), but temperature must be given in an absolute scale, i.e. in Kelvin. And of course, the temperature is the temperature of the tire - it warms up while driving!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now calculate if the pressure drop makes sense. I've done it graphically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2D6E.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2D6E.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drop from ~41psi to 30psi needs a temperature drop of about 60°C / 110°F, which is quite much. &#xA;But &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timeanddate.com/weather/canada/toronto/historic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toronto had 0°C last saturday, now it's -15°C&lt;/a&gt; and if you topped your tires then, you would now have about 37.5 psi. Consider the tires had  10°C  then and are cold now, you would have 36psi now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 30psi is a bit low for just being an effect of temperature, if my values are correct. But measuring tire pressure sometimes is a little tricky (I mean get the pressure from the tire into the gauge). Temperature may also have an effect on the gauge, but I can't imagine it's that large. But who knows...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you also said that all tires behave the same way, so you don't have a problem with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:57:58.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24241" CreationDate="2016-01-05T13:04:15.220" Score="7" ViewCount="7945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my front fog light housing before my MOT as it's completely ruined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO I need to take the entire bumper off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The image below is what I'm replacing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96SXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96SXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T00:19:10.633" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T18:48:00.337" Title="How to replace front fog light housing on a Corsa C 2005" Tags="|replace|lights|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9486" CreationDate="2016-01-05T13:52:43.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem has gradually improved over the last year. The mechanic seems to think that as newer fluid breaks down it is less sticky. Its still pretty bad on a cold morning but unnoticeable on a warm summers day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:52:43.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22707" CreationDate="2016-01-05T13:53:16.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP was fortunate to get away with it here. Note that this isn't guaranteed to work always, especially if the crank and cams are severely out of time on an interference engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22707/re-timing-my-engine-after-timing-belt-removal#comment33990_22707&quot;&gt;Me:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A quarter-turn on the crank is one-eighth on the camshaft. You may be able to get away with it by &quot;rewinding&quot; the work done so far (return the crank back to your best estimate of where it was prior to turning, install the belt and tensioner) and then proceed to line up the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22707/re-timing-my-engine-after-timing-belt-removal#comment34033_22707&quot;&gt;Calvin:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did as suggested. After 'undoing' the quarter turn on the crank, I installed the belt and turned the engine until the three hash marks should have been in position. The right cam needed about an eighth of a rotation so I removed the timing belt made the adjustment and she started right up and sounds good too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:53:16.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21814" CreationDate="2016-01-05T13:57:23.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sizing springs for a particular application, manufacturers have to get the right physical size for the job, but they also need to worry about the &quot;spring rate&quot; to properly support a given load.  The spring rate is basically how much weight it takes to compress the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger engine is going to be a bigger static load for the suspension, and a quick check of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Coil+Spring/03360/C0361.oap?year=1993&amp;amp;make=Chevrolet&amp;amp;model=C1500%2BPickup%2BRWD&amp;amp;vi=1031331&quot;&gt;parts store website&lt;/a&gt; shows a few different choices for your model of truck.  Looking at the details on the parts, you will see different spring rates of 870, 1025 and 1090 Lbs/in..  The &quot;heavier duty&quot; springs would be for a larger, heavier engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T13:57:23.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24234" CreationDate="2016-01-05T14:32:42.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I've never replaced this part on this vehicle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the front of the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look under the front bumper area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it uncovered? Can you access the fog light assemblies?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes: simply remove the bolts holding them and pull them out carefully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not: you have to pull the front bumper cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yI2EfoZXKm8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; that shows how to remove the bumper. Its a very simple procedure that you can do with common hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T14:32:42.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-05T15:20:05.510" Score="7" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving on the motorway at the weekend I discovered a leak in the ceiling of my '51 plate Clio. The leak is located roughly an inch forwards from where the passenger sunshade sits when stowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its the first time I've noticed the problem, and it was pretty thick horrible persistant rain (50MPH-on-the-Motorway bad for several hours) so I don't think its a major issue, but obviously if its one that's likely to get worse I don't want it to deteriorate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think at present it could be one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of some damage to the rubber surround of the windscreen in&#xA;the top corner (it looks a bit like &quot;chewed by vermin&quot; damage - rat&#xA;or bird perhaps) but IIRC this is unlikely to cause the effect&#xA;described - am I correct in this assumption? &lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; clarification - This is on the &lt;strong&gt;OUTSIDE&lt;/strong&gt; of the vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm also aware that the door seal might need fixing in place again,&#xA;as it came loose a few weeks ago. I fitted it back, but not sure if&#xA;it needs securing by more than just friction.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it potentially the sunroof? I've heard different things from different people, and one of them is something about drainage channels?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat of an amateur when it comes to fixing cars, but I'm quite handy so if it's an easy fix I'd like to do it myself if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T15:36:19.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T19:58:28.320" Title="2001 Clio Leaky Roof - Sunroof issue?" Tags="|renault|water-leak|clio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9486" CreationDate="2016-01-05T16:03:53.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like the gearbox was refilled with a grade of oil that's too heavy or was formulated for a hotter climate than where you live. The oil will reduce in viscosity as it 'wears' which explains the gradual improvement. You can either ignore it and let the oil 'wear' in or try a different brand/grade/etc. Be sure that the grade of oil that's used meets the standards/grades that VW recommended for this vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T16:03:53.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24234" CreationDate="2016-01-05T19:06:08.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT: I have heard that you do not need to remove the entire wing panelling. I certainly didn't on my 2003 Opel Agila. Just remove the screws from the front of the wing on the bottom of the car. Makes life easier.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;YOUR MILAGE MAY VARY ON THE CORSA!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what Vauxhall has to say about the front fog lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, we need to remove the inner paneling (basically the bumper): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release left and right front wheel cut-out panel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unscrew 4x nuts (1)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull out wheel cut-out panel slightly and fix in place &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVF97.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVF97.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQ9wV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQ9wV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undo front panelling at top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew 3x bolt (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release left and right wing protective liner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew 4x bolts (1) and (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undo front panelling at bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove 3x body-bound rivets (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove front panelling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release panelling from guide rail at the side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  This requires a second person&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now back to removing the lamps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2T8OY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2T8OY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove front fog lamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Unscrew 3x bolt (arrows)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Release front fog light wiring harness plug and disconnect&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove cover to change bulb (1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect wiring harness plug&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unlock retaining spring (2) and remove bulb &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reinstalling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace bulb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   - Insert bulb, lock retaining spring&#xA;&#xA;   - Connect wiring harness plug&#xA;&#xA;   - Attach cover&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach front fog lamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tighten 3x bolt&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connect wiring harness plug&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put on front panelling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clip panelling into guide rail&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  This requires a second person&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fasten front panelling at bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install 3x body-bound rivets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach left and right wing protective liner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten 4x bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fasten front panelling at top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten 3x bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fasten left and right front wheel cut-out panel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten 4x nuts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting the fog lamps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHUze.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHUze.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre pressure, Test and Adjust Adjustment is performed at vehicle curb weight plus one person or 75 kg on the driver seat. See also operation &quot;Headlamps, Test and Adjust&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust fog lamp with adjusting screw (1) to upper light-dark boundary line with adjuster. The light-dark boundary line is horizontal along the adjusting line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inclination of the front fog lamps is 20 cm at 10 m (corresponds to a light beam inclination of 2 %).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T18:48:00.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T18:48:00.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24239" CreationDate="2016-01-05T19:37:39.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a two part answer. The second is depending on whether there is an issue with the first part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it could be the drainage channels are blocked which should be toward the front of the vehicle. If you have an electric sunroof, you should be able to run it towards the rear the vehicle and see them in the front at the corners. If you poor some water down these channels and it doesn't flow easily, these are plugged and you'll need to figure out a way of clearing them. Fine lacing wire may do the trick (as long as you loop the tip so it doesn't rip anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has a manual tilt-up roof, you can remove it basically by unhinging it at the back. There should be a small red button under the closing clasp which you press and it will release the clasp from the roof of the car. You can see it better in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/D0U1ORXcemI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. You can then get to the drainage channels and see if they are blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if the channels are clear, your issue is (and from the video it seems this is very common), you'll need to replace the seal for the sunroof. The original seal used by Renault is a piece of junk. You'll need to take your sunroof completely out to replace the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the sunroof, follow the directions in the video, but basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the glass portion of the roof (as described already)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the 16x10mm bolts holding the roof frame in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect to the two channel hoses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the sunroof frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different ways to replace the seal. One is use silicon sealant. The second (which I'm liking immensely) is to replace the old seal with some mastic tape. Follow along with the video and I'm sure you'll agree. No muss, no fuss, no mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the sunroof like you took it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T19:58:28.320" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T19:58:28.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12879" CreationDate="2016-01-05T19:44:19.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CANBus error is key here. Something is shorted, broken or not connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suspect electrical components are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual Mode Switch Circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AT Shift Selector Assembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wire Harness and Connectors between components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more diagnostic info, check out this thread:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitifx.org/42-2nd-gen-2009/20401-transmission-problem-different-one.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.infinitifx.org/42-2nd-gen-2009/20401-transmission-problem-different-one.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially posts 8 through 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T16:38:47.360" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T16:38:47.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24246" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:34:50.863" Score="3" ViewCount="15130" Body="&lt;p&gt;We probably all know that using premium grade gasoline in a low compression engine (less than 9.5:1) is nothing but a waste of money, but what about medium compression engines with a compression ratio between 10:1 and 11:1? Before computer controlled ignition systems anything greater than 10:1 would quite likely require premium, but today an engine with a compression ratio of 10.5:1 can run on 87 octane (or at least my '14 Honda Accord can).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I figure the ignition system, which would be getting the octane data from the octane sensor, would advance the timing appropriately to accommodate the higher octane fuel. This would then result in combustion being further along as the piston passed top dead center as compared to 87 octane fuel.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;My owner's manual recommends 87 octane &lt;b&gt;or higher&lt;/b&gt;, and it does seem like my car has somewhat better acceleration with the 91 octane fuel. With gas being so relatively inexpensive and my not driving as much as when I was commuting to work, I don't mind paying extra for the premium. But I wonder if the increased performance is all in my head.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(I don't think this is the same as other questions regarding premium vs. regular, as I'm specifically limiting the question to medium compression engines or engines that without computer-controlled ignitions would have required premium grade fuel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T21:22:38.107" Title="Premium vs. regular in medium compression engines" Tags="|compression|octane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24050" CreationDate="2016-01-05T20:35:44.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems if the pedal pivot was rusted up. Booster helped but did not fix it. Sprayed the pivot with PB Blaster and it was better. Not great but better. Thank you for everyone's help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T20:35:44.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24244" CreationDate="2016-01-05T21:22:38.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as an octane sensor. Octane is analyzed in two ways. Analysis of the chemical composition, they call this Research. They place the fuel into a test engine and run it until it pings, they call this Motor. If you look at a gas pump it will usually show for example, 87 octane (R + M)/2. This is an average of Research and Motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern ignition system has some type of sensor to detect pinging or knocking, what ever you want to call it. The computer then calculates the base timing for all the cylinders. The computer then optimizes the timing for each cylinder individually. The computer keeps track of cylinders similar to how sequential fuel injection does. The computer then pushes the ignition advance on a cylinder until it detects a knock. When a knock is detected the timing is backed off slightly. This is the optimal timing spot for that cylinder at that specific time. After a couple of ignition events the timing is pushed again to find the next optimal spot. This process happens in each cylinder individually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different methods for knock detection that i'm familiar with. A piezo knock sensor is the simplest and most common. When the sensor is vibrated at specific frequencies it generates a voltage. That voltage constitutes a knock. The other involves sensing the dynamic resistance of the spark plug gap. The resistance of the secondary windings is reflected in the primary windings. By sensing current in the primary windings the resistance of the secondary windings can be inferred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may actually be seeing a slight increase in power. With a higher octane the ignition can push the timing further. This can allow faster and more complete combustion resulting in more power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T21:22:38.107" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19413" CreationDate="2016-01-05T21:48:50.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There might be some slight kernel of truth. A Ford/Mercury PCM is programmed in one of three ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the old PCM installed connect the scan tool. When the scan tool connects to the car it sucks out the build information of the vehicle. A PCM replacement is the initiated in the scan tool and the scan tool will tell you when to install the new PCM. Once the new/replacement PCM is installed the scan tool will push the programming into the PCM. This is the easiest way to program a PCM. Since you have already installed the PCM this method was most likely not used. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the old PCM is damaged beyond being able to retrieve the build data the build information needs to be reconstructed. One way of reconstructing this information is from stickers on the PCM. The numbers on those stickers are typed into the scan tool and it will assemble the build information. If this method was used for your car the numbers on the PCM may have indicated a manual transmission. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the old PCM is damaged beyond being able to retrieve the build data the build information needs to be reconstructed. The dealer has access to a system that will give them every build number associated with a particular vin number. By then sorting through the list, the build number can be selected that matches the vehicle options. By typing the numbers into the scan tool the scan tool will assemble the build information. This method should have been used because the old PCM is not available and the stickers on the PCM may not match the vehicle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T03:06:18.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:06:18.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24250" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:38:43.000" Score="10" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some cars, the power line from the battery to the accessory outlet (aka cigarette lighter socket) is always live. In others, it's off until ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems pretty much random which cars are wired which way, and some cars are wired differently between models in the same series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'm not going to do anything stupid like leave a power-draining accessory plugged in over the weekend, are there any side-effects, disadvantages or risks to rewiring an ignition-only socket so that it has a (fused!) direct connection to the battery, bypassing ignition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I'm asking, if anyone is interested:  I want to connect a trickle-charge solar panel to my car battery in a car (Toyota RAV4) that doesn't have an always-hot accessory socket (I mostly use the car for short journeys at night, sometimes with days/weeks between journeys and usually 3+ weeks between long journeys, which is terrible for draining my battery - this panel is designed for this purpose and doesn't draw any power when there's no light). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For obvious reasons, I'd like to keep the panel on the dashboard inside the car connected via a (fused) accessory socket, rather than clipping and unclipping it under the bonnet directly (unfused) to the battery every journey with the panel outside the car exposed to weather and passers-by; but before I rewire my socket, I want to know if there are any negative consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main use of the socket will be charging via the panel, which is why I'm not worried about the most obvious downside of always-on sockets which is that someone could cause a flat battery by forgetting to unplug an accessory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T23:11:41.617" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T17:06:21.723" Title="Are there downsides to making an accessory socket always live, if accessories are removed when not in use?" Tags="|electrical|battery|wiring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:43:47.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rev limit of a petrol (gasoline) engine is generally set to protect the internals of the engine. Less sporty engines are designed to a cost and their components may not have the strength or manufacturing tolerances to cope with the higher forces experienced at higher engine speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines, as you say, are more often limited by the speed of combustion but that doesn't mean the engine manufacturer hasn't 'designed down' (sorry about the clunky phrase) the quality of the internals as they only need to cope with forces generated at engine speeds up to 5000 RPM or so. If you manage to over rev an engine designed like this, the same problems as over revving a petrol would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably correct about any electronically controlled engines and the fuel being cut off, it will essentially be in an overrun condition and that is how a petrol engine's ECU would respond. Mechanical injection pumps rotate to match engine speed and have a mechanical governor which will cut off fuel if the engine speed is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T22:43:47.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24248" CreationDate="2016-01-05T22:47:17.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is nothing connected to it (which can draw power), no power will be drawn. To me that means there are no drawbacks. I would not have an issue of making the socket as always hot for just the purpose you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I don't know what else I can add here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T22:47:17.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8661" CreationDate="2016-01-05T23:08:56.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idle air control valve is integrated into the throttle body unit as shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlJOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlJOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not look &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; like that, there was an update some time around then but the parts are very similar and the principles are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a forum thread with a few more pictures of the cleaning process here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65279&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65279&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCpcn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCpcn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVD90.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVD90.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note:&lt;/em&gt; Moving the throttle butterfly manually may mean you need to undertake a 'throttle body reset' as the throttle is computer controlled and has no physical link to the pedal. The process is discussed and explained here in post 14.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cliosport.net/threads/dont-touch-throttle-body.321352/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cliosport.net/threads/dont-touch-throttle-body.321352/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is the process described:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minimum throttle stop must be reprogrammed as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  a) switch the ignition on for approx. 3 secs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  b)switch off he ignition and wait aprox, 5 secs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  c) restart the engine and allow the coolant temperature to reach 60°C (approx. 3 mins from ambient temp of 20°C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  d) road test the car and allow the ECU to learn the throttle valve adaptives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T12:46:53.010" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T12:46:53.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T00:17:05.137" Score="7" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let my wife put gas in the car and she thought it was E-85. But she put eco-diesel gas (only) 5.00 dollars worth so my guess maybe 2 gallons now my truck smokes a lot and wants to shut off. I bought Techron, Put 1 in when it fist happened the 2nd after I put $25.OO worth of gas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please! Help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I Do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14075" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T03:07:00.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:28:43.127" Title="2010 dodge ram 1500 reg./E-85" Tags="|fuel-system|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T01:51:38.073" Score="2" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get higher gas mpg in RX350 by using premium gasoline ?&#xA;It seems to, but don't know how it works and don't know how much more I get since one day is not the same as another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there tests/science done to prove this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T04:44:47.020" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T04:44:47.020" Title="Will using premium gas increase gas mileage?" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-06T10:29:08.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14904" CreationDate="2016-01-06T01:55:17.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short strand fibreglass and Bondo would be the easiest option for you, I bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, use a dolly and hammer. On top of that you can use a shrink disc from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/sdisc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wolfes Metal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T01:55:17.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21788" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:48:35.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is the combination of a broken engine/transmission mount, and worn or loose shift linkages. Excessive movement of the engine/transaxle causes a downshift as if it came from the control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the engine mount test. Park in a safe spot with front/rear clearance, and raise the hood. Put the parking brake on hard, and stand on the brakes. Then rev the engine in short bursts in Park, Reverse and Drive. Have an observer with a strong light monitor each mount for each P/R/D rev test. Excessive movement at any mount point means you need a new mount. Sometimes it is scary obvious when this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:48:35.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21531" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:51:03.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation is common on certain Honda 3.5L engines with VCM, because one bank is deactivated regularly for fuel economy reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:51:03.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25743" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:52:49.987" Score="15" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;When guys are doing dyno runs they to do it in a gear, interact with the keyboard and then do it again in another gear.  It seems they do multiple runs in multiple gears.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24261/how-does-a-dynamometer-work/24294#24294&quot;&gt;In this post Paulster explained how dynamometer functions.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would like to know the following&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are they doing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a pre-ordained procedure for each dyno manufacturer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are the steps necessary in order to do a successful dyno run?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* &lt;em&gt;sources are desirable.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T22:24:56.920" Title="Dynamometer Question - How is it operated and what are they doing?" Tags="|engine|performance|measurement|dynamometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13325" CreationDate="2016-01-06T02:57:20.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single grade oil is thicker than multigrade when starting a cold engine, more so as the temperature gets colder. In cold weather this might result in labored cranking and slow starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once warmed up, a 30 weight is a 30 weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine oil cleaning should not result in noticeable changes in exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T02:57:20.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24252" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:28:43.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your not going to like the answer. Diesel is a thick oil as compared to gasoline. Fuel filters for the two are quite different. Your truck has a returnless fuel system with an integral fuel filter in the fuel pump module. The oil probably has contaminated the filer preventing normal flow of gasoline. Dropping and draining the tank will get you most of the way there. If you flush the fuel line from the rail to the tank while the tank is out would also help. If you can find the fuel filer as a separate unit then replace it but you may have to put a new fuel pump module in it. If you are still having problems then there might be diesel oil trapped in the rail and/or injectors. Pull and flush the rail. Flow test the injectors in a machine to make sure they are not plugged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:28:43.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24294" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:43:16.137" Score="11" ViewCount="2830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have much to add here.  Pretty simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How does a dynamometer work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How are Horsepower and Torque measured as separate figures during a single dyno run?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few components and there is a component that provides resistance to the force, there has to be if it's measuring something, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really wanting to understand how these devices function at an intimate level.  The more we understand how this device works the better we can understand how manufacturer's numbers are derived, so I feel like this is a good thing to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T17:54:48.577" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:17:27.913" Title="How does a dynamometer work?" Tags="|performance|measurement|dynamometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24253" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:49:29.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only practical way of tracking fuel economy is driving duplicate courses for many tankfuls with each fuel. Complications like changes in seasonal air temperature, fuel type (Winter versus non-Winter gasoline), traffic, etc., all complicate getting a good picture of actual fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my commuter vehicle gets used almost identically for my weekly commute, and hardly at all on weekends, yet my MPG calculated at fill-up time varies by almost 2MPG. However on Winter gas it averages almost 2 MPG less than on non-Winter formula gas, but it takes several fill-ups to find the new average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Premium gas only increases fuel economy in situations where the knock sensor invokes timing retardation while using lower octane fuel. If that condition is not occurring (and it's hard to tell if it is or isn't), then changing to a higher octane gasoline won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tow, race, or accelerate up steep hills often, you may see a small increase in fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another complication in tracking fuel economy, is that it takes a little time for the engine system to &quot;learn&quot; that it has higher octane fuel. How much time depends on the system, and how often knock is occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:49:29.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7649" CreationDate="2016-01-06T12:30:21.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What usually gets overlooked is the Rack and pinion as they are notorious for failing and allowing air to come in through worn seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14081" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T12:30:21.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24301" CreationDate="2016-01-06T12:51:07.617" Score="5" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '06 G6 has an airplane-like sound that comes from the passenger front end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already know it's a wheel bearing, but how urgent is this kind of repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about fuel economy and safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T19:39:18.747" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:00:42.117" Title="Pontiac G6 sounds like a prop plane. Wheel bearing?" Tags="|pontiac|vibration|wheel-bearing|g6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24265" CreationDate="2016-01-06T13:20:08.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty urgent. Less urgent than say, having no friction material left on your brakes but way more urgent than any regular servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving around with a dying bearing will hurt both economy and safety but mostly safety. If the wheel is not a driven one (e.g. if it's the front wheel and your car is rear wheel drive) it's possible for the hub (and wheel) to come off completely, though this is only likely on a wheel with a drum brake as a disc brake caliper would attempt to retain the hub &amp;amp; wheel via the disc. The bearing could also seize and cause a loss of control by locking the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bearing failure or seizure has the potential to damage other more expensive components that are close to it, like the hub, so leaving it can be a false economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the wheel bearing replaced at the earliest opportunity and don't drive the car unless you need to as the miles are ticking away to the point where the bearing fails completely. When driving, avoid super high speed (like 70mph+) and hard cornering as those 2 things put the most load on the wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T13:20:08.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22429" CreationDate="2016-01-06T14:48:12.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to post a follow up, the adaptor for both got the job done :) my kenwood stereo now fits perfectly and works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T14:48:12.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2016-01-06T15:47:10.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is now fixed. The BSI (central computer) was totally reset / re-initialized and all is now good and well. The garage assured me that normally disconnecting the battery shouldn't leave the car FUBAR. They suspected the BSI had just entered some kind of extremely confused mode which demanded a hard reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess the answer was: Get the BSI re-initialized. Comments suggest, however, that it would have been worth trying to disconnect the battery for an extended period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T15:47:10.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14884" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:11:48.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a year later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never had the problem again. I've had the Jeep for a full year in plenty of crazy hot and crazy cold weather. I'm going to assume that when they replaced the windshield washer nozels, they accidentally unplugged the power to the fan. Then they fixed it and were embarrassed to say they made a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else experiences the same weird problem, please post a comment, I'm still curious to know if there was really a mechanical or electrical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastEditorUserId="8003" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T16:17:27.307" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T16:17:27.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24286" CreationDate="2016-01-06T16:47:40.783" Score="11" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what I can learn from the temperatures on the individual exhaust pipes coming out of each cylinder.  The question is general, and my specific example is on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I checked it was after revving the engine a bit and came out to 416, 426, 362, 308 in Fahrenheit. The EGR pipe is connected to exaust cylinder 4, the coolest one. The hottest cylinder is always 2, the coolest always 4 and the difference between them is usually about 70*-100*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T18:00:17.157" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T15:17:58.930" Title="What Can I Learn From Exhaust Manifold Temps?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24137" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:02:03.077" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to figure out exactly what's wrong would be to take it to a mechanic and ask him to read the fault codes, that might give you an idea as to what's causing the issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T17:02:03.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T18:20:09.347" Score="5" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how does apps like Torque calculate if my car (Hyundai i10 Era) is 'Not ready' yet? What are the factors (complete list) do one checks to decide? Is there any formula to calculate readiness (which I guess, there is none)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:48:02.497" Title="On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) Readiness Monitors" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24274" CreationDate="2016-01-06T18:48:02.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are not calculations. The car has a list of PIDs that the tool checks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The readiness monitors are a set of tests that the car runs including but not limited to EVAP, EGR, CATALIST, O2, FUEL, COMPREHENSIVE. When the codes in a car are cleared all the PID values for the monitors are cleared. As the car completes and passes the necessary tests it will set the PID values to pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scan tool or App does nothing other than just reads the values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:48:02.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:00:34.247" Score="6" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people say that when choosing jack stands/wheel chocks, we should always leave plenty of room above the vehicle weight. For example, if the car is 1.5 tons, we should choose jack stands with a 2.5 tons weight capacity in the specification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My SUV has a weight of 5000 pounds, which is 2.5 tons. So what jack stands/wheel chocks should I choose? Are jack stands with 3 tons capacity enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13842" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T19:35:12.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:13:33.943" Title="How to choose the best jack stands and wheel chocks for a vehicle?" Tags="|maintenance|tools|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24280" CreationDate="2016-01-06T20:52:35.257" Score="14" ViewCount="4793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured the PSI on my rear driver tire (using a gauge pin - push it into the needle and a stick pops out with a reading), and I got a reading of 22 PSI. My tires are supposed to be anywhere from 30-34 PSI. The thing is, the rear driver tire (the tire in question) doesn't look flat at all. It looks just as good, if not better than the other tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I fill the tire with air? I don't want to over-inflate the tire, if my gauge is giving me a bad reading. However, at the same time, the gauge seems to be working fine for the other tires, so one would be reasonable to assume that it's working well for the tire in question as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note to consider - my front driver side tire looks flatter than the rear driver side tire, but it's PSI is 32. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? Should I go with how the tire &quot;looks&quot; or what my $4 (from Advanced Auto) gauge says?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14088" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T02:09:56.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T02:09:56.013" Title="Should I fill my tire?" Tags="|tires|car|pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24276" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:13:33.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most situations if you're putting the SUV up on 4 stands @JPhi1618 is correct, only 1/3 to 1/4 of the vehicles weight is sitting on each stand. I have put a Toyota Sequoia on 3 ton stands and they are steady as a rock. The Sequoia has a curb weight of up to 6,000 pounds. At that I was still no where near the rating for each stand. Even putting just the front or rear on stands (with both wheels on the other end tightly chocked) the end on the tires is still holding roughly half the weight of the SUV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two 3 ton stands holding up the front end of a 6000 pound curb weight SUV will more than do the job since each is only holding at most 2000 pounds. (front end is heavier, so call it 4000 pounds front, 2000 rear, and there are two in the front, so 2000 pounds each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, buy the biggest, best, highest rated jack stands you can possibly afford and then treat them like gold. Don't let them get rusty, etc. Literally your life depends on them doing their job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be careful about is the height to which the jack stand will rise. The Sequoia has a very high ground clearance so the jack points are also high off the ground. Be sure you get jack stands that are stable when extended high enough to give you room to work. That might be harder to find. I have often used ramps backed up by jack stands (drive up on the ramps, put the stands in place but not 100% extended in case the ramps failed) to give enough room. Just make sure the ramps will handle 3 tons as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure of the jack stands footing. The wrong kind of stand might sink into your driveway on a hot summer day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:13:33.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24277" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:18:40.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you have verified the gauge is working reasonably by trying the other tires, go with the gauge. Your owners manual will have the inflation pressures for your car. Just make sure that the recommended pressure in the manual is less than the maximum tire pressure imprinted on the sidewall of the tire. If it is, just fill it to the manuals recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:18:40.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24277" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:19:26.553" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should fill your tire. The fact the other tires all are nominally correct means you should trust your gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern tires often have reinforced sidewalls that mask the appearance of low pressure. Waiting for a bad wear pattern is not a good plan, as then you'll have an unevenly worn set of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T21:26:18.190" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:26:18.190" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:30:27.313" Score="8" ViewCount="4127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: 2003 Honda Civic Si G1Wh dash cam, 400w amp, 4300k HIDs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My alternator failed badly (stereo cutting off), no battery light.&#xA;Replaced it with a reman Duralast, battery light is on. It shows 14.5v while running, and I've had the battery tested at 2 different stores, both good. &#xA;The car has only died once in 3 months (I leave my dash cam on overnight sometimes).  The car has an electrical load detector, but there is no CEL indicating a problem with it. Fuses good, grounds good, alternator connection good. Cruise control doesn't work, and just threw a TPS code, not sure if that's related. What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:28:04.203" Title="Battery light on after new alternator" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|charging|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24284" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:31:58.350" Score="12" ViewCount="3906" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the benefit to Formula 1 using engines like a 3.0L V8 or a 2.4L V8?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/explainlikeimfive/comments/1zt90z/eli5why_do_car_manufacturers_make_engines_with_4/&quot;&gt;this Reddit discussion&lt;/a&gt; on why it's not practical to put small many-cylindered engines into production cars.  Cost mostly, due to the many additional and higher-quality components that must go into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because race teams &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; afford to produce engines like that, what is the benefit to using these engines instead of 6- or 8-cylinder engines with higher displacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T00:48:20.443" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T10:59:10.967" Title="Why do Formula 1 cars use engines with many volumetrically small cylinders?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23555" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:34:58.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the rise from the OEM pump to the OEM radiator as implemented in the motorcycle. Measure the rise or fall from the radiator output to the engine/pump intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Implement the new radiators so that the intake at the top is the same height or lower as when on the bike, and the radiator(s) output is above the return port on the engine/pump. That way gravity will assist in cooled coolant return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rise to the replacement(s) is the same or less, and gravity assists the return, the pump should do fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:34:58.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24282" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:35:44.020" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to why F1 teams use a certain engine displacement and cylinder count is not a technical one; it's governed by the rules of the sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the history of F1 engines &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/engine_rule_changes_history.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. From the same source, for 2014/2015:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.6-litre, six-cylinder single-turbos with energy recovery and fuel restrictions to replace 2.4-litre normally aspirated V8s, Fuel efficiency to increase by 35%, Power of energy-recovery systems to double, Overall power to remain at approx 750bhp.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T21:48:15.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:48:15.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24227" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:45:29.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That &quot;card in the spokes&quot; noise sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. Since it didn't do it before the repair it would most likely be an exhaust manifold gasket leak, and not a hole in the manifold itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white smoke could be antifreeze getting into the combustion chamber from a leaking head gasket. Here is a link to a question here about how to test for a leaking head gasket:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17378/how-to-test-if-head-gaskets-are-blown/17396#17396&quot;&gt;How to test if head gaskets are blown?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:45:29.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24272" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:04:09.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally when an engine runs, if it is running lean, it will run hotter. If an engine is running rich, it will run cooler. Each individual cylinder is no different. After an engine is completely warmed up, if one measures each cylinder at the same basic place on the exhaust manifold, you can get an idea of which cylinder is running lean and which is running rich in comparison to each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the GM LT1 (Gen-II Small Block) ECU, there is a table in the ECU called the &lt;em&gt;Individual Cylinder Fuel Trim Multiplier&lt;/em&gt;. I don't know if every ECU has one, but will assume for the sake of argument that they have something like this. This table allows for the fine adjustment of each cylinder to get them working at the same levels. To factor this and get the table adjusted correctly, you need to take the temperature of each cylinder at the exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To perform the operation, you take the temperature of each cylinder (as you stated you did in your question), then make adjustments in the table to compensate. You need to choose one cylinder to work from as your base. In most instances you'd take one of the interior cylinders (in your case either cyl-2 or cyl-3). Once you have established your base, make adjustments to your table to add fuel if it's too hot or subtract fuel if it's too cool. This process could take several iterations to get right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a case where certain cylinders may be starved for fuel. In this case, those cylinders would be far cooler than the others due to lack of combustion. In that case you may consider fattening up those cylinders first to alleviate the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory with adjusting the cylinders to match is if each of the cylinders are working at the same output level (heat output in this case), they are each producing about the same amount of power and therefore are working in concert with each other. This produces better engine harmonics and will help with longevity. It can also help with gas mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the LT1 engine there are tables for both idle and off-idle. This will allow for even finer engine tuning adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-03-05T15:17:58.930" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T15:17:58.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:15:32.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old topic, but just had the exact same problem on a 1.9tdi 110. The problem occured only under load, and certain driving conditions &quot;pushing&quot; the engine harder. We changed everything, cap, thermostat, resevoir, radiator!(someone suggested i could be clogged), oil heat exchanger, pipework, watter pump, and the heater matrix was eliminated at one point because it started to leak ( caused by the excessive pressure). Finaly i have decide to check the engine, and a very tiny leak was found between cylinder 2 and 3. A new headgasket and a new set of headbolts fix it permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:15:32.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21853" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:21:54.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to do it by doing a model and type search for manuals on the Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that page, enter the model and type of your engine, and the cover of the resulting operators manual has the series numbers that match. There are 3 or 4 series listed for your model and type. But, they all look different enough that a search on the Briggs and Stratton site should get you pics of each individual series type (the manual does not identify each one, just shows pics and lists all the covered series) and from that find the one that looks like yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the manual cover gets you a short list of series numbers and your engine belongs to one of them. Then use the pics to narrow it down to the correct series. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little gob smacked that it took this to find out what series the model and type belong to. Suddenly I'm very happy that my snow blower has a Tecumseh engine. lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T00:00:21.303" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:00:21.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19010" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:40:17.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Zaid said, start with crasic's excellent answer in: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18403/how-do-you-test-analogue-electrical-circuits&quot;&gt;How do you test analogue electrical circuits?&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your situation specifically, I would introduce a small voltage between the fuse holder of the fuse that is blowing, and ground. Use a continuity noise generator or a light bulb so you can hear or see your progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, get into that bundle of wires near the custom horn setup and selectively disconnect things until the current flow goes away. What you are looking for is a place where the current is reaching ground (another wire or vehicle chassis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;good guides on the net&quot;, the purpose of this site is to build that good guide, not send people willy-nilly over the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:40:17.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24277" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:45:31.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description &quot;front driver looking flatter&quot; suggests that the front driver and rear passenger tires could be carrying more load than the rear driver.  If the front driver and rear passenger are on higher pavement than the other two they will carry more load and could appear &quot;flatter&quot;.  Is this a possibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14091" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:45:31.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15087" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:50:31.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry air is 78% nitrogen.  Topping off a tire with air will introduce very little other elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14091" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:50:31.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24261" CreationDate="2016-01-06T23:19:19.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The following example assumes output in lb-ft &amp;amp; horsepower. Dynamometers can also measure torque output in Newton Meters or Kilowatts just as easily, or any other measure of torque and power, for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, let's get everyone on the same sheet of music. When it comes to vehicles, there are two basic types of dynamometers: engine &amp;amp; chassis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine dynamometer (dyno for short) measures the torque output from the crankshaft of an engine directly. Here is a larger engine dyno with an engine attached to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxdmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxdmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine attached to it appears to be a Detroit Diesel engine. Note that the engine is only attached to the dyno via an output shaft (covered by the yellow piece). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chassis dyno measures the torque output of an engine as seen at the tires. Here is one which is above ground and with a car on top of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4aCZ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4aCZ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture you can see a large cylinder underneath the rear (drive) wheels of the vehicle. Attached to the large cylinder is the measuring device for this particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dyno is designed to measure the torque at a given point (engine crank or at the wheels, depending on the model) and the rotational speed at which the torque is measured. To do this (let's say for an engine dyno), the engine is mounted (or as some would say &quot;&lt;em&gt;strapped&lt;/em&gt;&quot;) to a cradle. This cradle is in proximity to the dyno where the operator can place a connecting piece between the two. Then all of the electrical, fuel, and cooling systems are connected to the engine. Along with this, whatever sensors are present will be connected so that the operator can &lt;em&gt;view&lt;/em&gt; the engine to ensure it is running properly or shut it down if they see issues. From there, the engine is ran and the dyno reads the amount of torque produced by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure the torque output of an engine, the dyno must create some kind of resistance, then measure the resistance. This resistance is then fed through a computer which computes the amount of torque at a given speed and from this, can compute the amount of horsepower. There are two main ways resistance can be applied against the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fluid type dyno uses a device much like the torque converter of an automatic transmission. The difference here is, the coupling device's resistance can be adjusted to control the speed of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another type of dyno is an eddy current dyno. Instead of a fluid coupler, eddy currents are used to control the speed of the engine. Think of it as a giant generator which can apply load through creating the current, which stalls the speed of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both fluid and eddy current dynos are called brake dynos because they use either method to produce a braking action which controls the engine. A completely different method to measure torque through a dyno is an inertial dyno which calculates the speed of how fast the engine or tires can speed up a known mass. This works off a completely different premise than a brake dyno. Due to this, measurements can be different between the two types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the engine is running on the dyno it develops torque. There are sensors attached to the dyno which can detect the amount of movement (actual twisting of the device itself) which is produced from the coupling device. This force is then computed into the amount of torque produced. During the testing, the engine is pushed into wide open throttle (WOT). The dyno produces resistance against the engine as it climbs through the rpm range. To measure the amount of torque, the resistance must be enough to hold the engine at a given speed, yet not overpower the engine (impeded it's progress through the rpm range). As the engine climbs in rpm, the sensor do their thing and read the amount of torque which is being produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chassis dyno works pretty much the same way (in either fluid or eddy current), but is measured at the wheels (tires) as they contact the surface of the rotating drum. Resistance is put against the tires and the torque is measured. When measured at the tires, torque/horsepower output is always less than what would be measured at the crankshaft due to powertrain losses. Powertrain losses are those which are incurred as the power is transmitted through the transmission, drive line (if so equipped), changes of direction through the differential, out the axles, and through the tires. A rule of thumb dictates about a 15% loss when a vehicle uses a manual transmission and a loss of 18-20% when using an automatic transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculation of horsepower (HP) is the easy part, mainly because it is just a mathematical equation which gives us the figure. To calculate HP, just follow the math:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = (T * N) / constant&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = Power (hp)&#xA;T = Torque (lb-ft)&#xA;N = Rotational Speed (rpm)&#xA;C = Constant (5252)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The constant 5252 is the rounded value of (33,000 ft·lbf/min)/(2π rad/rev)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is purely an exercise in mathematics, the computer can figure out on the fly the exact amount of HP produced as long as it knows how fast the engine is going and the amount of torque produced at that given speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T00:17:27.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:17:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24223" CreationDate="2016-01-06T23:35:16.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gauge does not need to be incredibly accurate, but it does need to be consistent, and precise. You can get the precision from a digital gauge and they are very cheap. I believe they are also consistent as long as you press down well enough to fully open the valve, and that there is nothing leaking out around the valve when taking the measurement. That at least will remove much of the measurement error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 20 minutes of driving was at highway speeds for most of that, you might have gotten the tires 10 deg C warmer than when they have sat overnight. But if you were just driving around town at relatively low speeds, I would be surprised if you got more than a few degrees C. That's especially true if you're driving through snow since the snow will cool the tires quickly and keep your speeds low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can try, while it's still really cold outside, fill the tires to 35 or 36 PSI when they are still cold from sitting overnight. Then if it gets significantly warmer, and the tires are warm from driving, you are still under the max pressure, and not so low that they are under inflated when it's really cold (since you filled them to 36 when it was really cold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps at least some!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T23:45:47.163" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T23:45:47.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24299" CreationDate="2016-01-07T00:10:37.803" Score="8" ViewCount="5354" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24208/what-is-lobe-separation-angle-lsa&quot;&gt;In this question&lt;/a&gt;, it is suggested that valve overlap can affect emissions. In what way can valve overlap affect emissions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:55:05.653" Title="How does Valve Overlap affect emissions?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17643" CreationDate="2016-01-07T00:15:47.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of your pump assembly. Cost is around $100. There are two lines, I'm assuming one is the return line. If you are replacing the whole thing as a unit, just cut off the plastic end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHCMM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHCMM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2004 Cavalier fuel pump&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus #1- probably. All the supply and return lines I've worked with go to the pump unit, and the pump unit removes from the top of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus #2 Yes, but I wouldn't advise it where a gasoline leak is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus #3, Yes return lines are low pressure lines, plus there may be a gravity assist. In addition gasoline systems self-pressurize due to the vapor pressure of gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:15:47.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16959" CreationDate="2016-01-07T00:49:13.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your solution is electrically equivalent, which is all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:49:13.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24296" CreationDate="2016-01-07T00:55:05.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the exhaust stroke as the piston is pushing the burnt gases out of the cylinder the stream develops speed. Since the stream of gas has mass it will develop momentum. This momentum follows Newtons first law a body in motion tend to stay in motion. As the cylinder empties the exhaust stream will actually pull a slight suction on the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is no overlap the exhaust valve closes before the intake valve opens and most of that suction is lost. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is some overlap the exhaust valve is closing while the intake valve is opening. This takes advantage of the suction and starts pulling in the intake mixture even before the intake stroke begins. Most cars take advantage of this action. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a lot of overlap then the exhaust valve is completely open while the intake valve is opening. With this amount of overlap the suction action may pull some of the intake mixture into the exhaust before the exhaust valve closes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a compromise between overlap and emissions. At low RPM overlap mostly contributes to emissions. At high RPM overlap contributes to performance by taking advantage of the suction to jump start the intake mixture. Lots of overlap is why super high performance cars tend to have a very crappy idle. When overlap is taken to the extreme the exhaust valve is still open during the intake stroke which will pull in some exhaust back into the cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable valve timing is the compromise. By adjusting the amount of overlap dynamically the correct amount of overlap can be set for every RPM. Some vehicles will take advantage of sucking in some exhaust back into the cylinder to eliminate the need for an EGR valve. (GM inline 6 in the Trailblazers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:55:05.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2016-01-07T00:56:45.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, remove the illegal, substandard, and defective &quot;aftermarket halo headlights&quot; and the ballasts that came with them, and replace with the OEM lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then repair the damage the ballasts did to the rest of your system when they back-fed your wiring harness with high voltage discharges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T00:56:45.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24265" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:00:42.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the part that lets the wheel go round. It is very urgent that you repair it. The bearing can seize and cause your car to swerve at whatever speed you are going and hit something/somebody. I would not use the car until it is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:00:42.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="983" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:04:02.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle Maintenance Tasks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tasks occur differently based upon the requirements of each manufacturer, find out what the intervals are for particular make/model/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cable lubrication - A graphite based lubricant, no oil based lubricants as they tend to have the hydrocarbons evaporate under heat and leave a sticky gummy feel to the cable and it's operation.  Clutch cable, throttle cable, rear brake cable if it has one&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate Kickstand - Oil based OK&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Adjustment - Check your valve clearance with a feeler gauge and remediate as necessary.  If you have a shim and bucket valve train you need the appropriate sized shims to perform this task.  If you have rocker arms you will adjust clearance with a pin and lock nut.  Depending on whether you have a paper or rubber valve cover gasket you may need to procure one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain Lubrication and Tension adjustment - Most motorcycles have similar mechanisms for pulling the rear wheel back and markers to align and adjust the rear wheel.  This is a regular event and chain throw should typically be between 1&quot; and 1.5&quot; inches.  Sorry for my stone age measurement reference but hey, I live in the States so this form of measurement is better than the entire rest of the world.  If you have an O-ring chain, just lubricate it.  Cleaning them with kerosene or any other obscene petrochemical will penetrate the O-ring seal and get inside of the chain and liquefy the grease inside.  Purchase a specialized cleaner for O-ring chains, it's worth it.  If it's a non-O-ring chain, clean it with whattever you want,  You can scrub it with a wire brush too.  Be sure you use compressed air or let it sit and get hot in the sun to evaporate whattever horrible product your using that's destroying our planet.  Check the chain for kinking and or any grinding feeling.  Move it around, don't be shy.  If it's grinding, that's probably particular matter the earth is kicking up disable your vehicle.  If it's grinding now it will accelerate wear.  DO NOT USE SOLVENTS, THEY WILL DESTROY O-RINGS.  Once your cleaning product is completely gone, use a special chain lubricant.  It will stick better to the chain.  Oil will just fling off and get everywhere, possibly even on your tire.  Lube it up good.  It likes it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Pressure/Tire wear/Tire damage - Check it and remediate.  Consult the website of the tire manufacturer to determine service limits of your tires.  Replace as necessary.  Check for damage, cuts, knurls, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the Spark Plugs - Goto your local MC shop and request the appropriate plug for you bike.  You don't need anything fancy, just the OEM replacement.  Before you remove the plugs make sure there is no debris in the plug hole, when you remove the plug the debris will fall in and well, that will suck.  We don't want to suck so we will use compressed air to assist the debris is getting gone.  Make the debris go away in the plug hole.  THEN remove the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - Check your pads, if the visible vertical groove cannot be seen, replace them.  Be careful, when you push the piston in on the caliper it will displace fluid in the reservoir on your handlebar for the fronts and the side for the rear.  You can use an old lint free towel to absorb some of the fluid before you depress the caliper pucks so it doesn't get on your gas tank or any other painted component.  Brake fluid eats paint.  Brake fluid is also water miscible so keep a bottle of water handy in case you get brake fluid on your bike.  Just splash water on it, lots of it and rub it away.  Be sure to validate the type of brake fluid you need.  Probably DOT 3 or 4.  Check your brake discs for grooves and/or bluing.  If they have a rainbow bluish hue to them they are glazed.  I've taken sandpaper and extended the life of discs.  600 grit.  I was broke kid when I did that, you should probably replace.  MC discs or too thin the resurface and the machine cutting bit will chatter across the disc and destroy it more.  Don't waste your time on that.  Throw it away and buy new.  Don't buy used.  It seems every unethical freak on the planet is selling his destroyed brake discs after replacement, they are consistently NOT GOOD.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery - Check the level of water.  Use distilled if you need to top it off.  No minerals in distilled.  If you use tap water.  Just throw your battery away.  It'll crap out soon enough.  Check your vent hose, two grooves where it joins the battery are apart of the backup venting. If the bottom of the hose, close to the ground, get's melted together from the exhaust pipe or some other inane incident.  Make sure the bottom of the vent isn't clogged with road grime or asphalt buildup..tar..or whattever.  If it, cut the end off.  Fixed.  Test the battery with a multi-meter, it should be 12.6 volts.  If you topped it off with distilled, you may want to run it for a few miles or charge it for a bit.  After you charge it, start it, drive it, stop it, then test.  You want to take the surface charge off it after the removal of the battery tender.  If it's not 12.6 volts, give it back to the planet through an appropriate recycling location because we care and our responsible members of humanity.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lights - Test your high and low beam with the bike running.  Test the turn signals, tail light and brake light.  You SHOULD test your brake light, front and rear brake, every single time you get on it and start because you have self esteem and care about your family and yourself.  Replace any light bulbs as necessary and never ride it with a low or high beam out or tail/brake light out.  We don't do that because we always look out for number one.  Replace bulbs as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolt Check - Go around the entire bike and ensure that all essential and safety related bolts, nuts and screws are properly torqued down.  You wouldn't want a wheel to fall off and get yourself killed.  Use locktite or a similar threadlocker all over the place especially if you have twin or single cylinder.  Bikes rattle themselves apart.  Check everything.  BE ANAL.  Lock it down.  Check, double check.  Your safety is paramount and you are a beautiful slave to the planet.  We need you to keep the production numbers up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil Change - Change the filter every other oil change.  use the recommended oil.  Look at the magnet on your drainbolt after your drain the case.  Does it have metal shavings on it.  Why?  Figure it out.  Usually you will have something and usually it's of no consequence but if you have a chunky gritty mess you will need to do some thinking and research.  BE SURE you put that drainbolt in and use a torque wrench to tighten it down.  I used to work in a shop and in my first year we had 8 customers that lost drainbolts after friggin shop did maintenance.  Imagine that.  Granted, the shop was a crap show, they hired me as teenager, and that my friend was dumb. Why?  Because I was teenager.  Luckily I never crapped on anyone but c'mon...it seems ridiculous but that is one that could really kill you when you hit the rear brake on a panic stop and that rear wheel is covered in oil and starts to come around on you.....exhale.  Seriously...be mindful, it's easy to get disorganized and lose track of where you are in the project and what you were/are/going to do.  Always double check.  Always double check.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air Filter - Clean it, replace it, inspect it.  Get the crap out of it.  Make sure any debris that comes off doesn't fall in the airbox.  If some does, get a vacuum and get the debris gone.  It must go away.  You know why.  If you have a foam air filter, wash it with warm soapy water.  If you have a paper one, you can bang it out and blow it with compressed air but it will only last so long.  At some point you will need to toss it.  Oil the air filter (paper or foam) as stated by the manufacture.  Most paper filters do not get oil.  Look in your airbox.  Do you have a bunch of oil in there.  If you do, you probably have a PVC issue and are getting the result of too much blow by on your rings maybe.  If you've got a grip of oil in the airbox you have problems.  You will always have a little film though.  Spray some horrible hydrocarbon crap on a rag and wipe it down or use some earth friendly soapy thing and moisten a towel with it to wipe it out.  Check your oil drain hose.  It has an X on the end cut into it so it can drain oil.  Is it full of oil?  Why.  Is the reed valve on your valve cover for you PVC crapping on you, it might be.  Pull it out and inspect it.  Clean it.  Do the reeds snap shut?  If not, R&amp;amp;R.  That's fancy for Remove and Replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suspension.  Check your fork seals, if you have any oil coming out, you need to replace them.  That simple. Dry good, wet bad.  If it's dry, then the level hasn't changed in the fork so you don't need to pop the top of the fork to measure it unless it feels super springy because the last guy that touched it jammed you up and did crap work.  This one is up to you.  Springy, pop it and measure.  Your manual will tell you how deep.  Rear shock, same....wet is bad, dry is good.  If your rear is wet, you will need to have the shop rebuild it if it's OEM because you don't have a nitrogen charger.  Watch a youtube video on suspension adjustment and properly setup your dampening for rebound and compression.  As well, adjust your springs per the youtube.  You will know the credible video when you see it.  The guy won't slobbering on himself and cursing at his wife while drunkenly holds a jiggling cam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame - Visually inspect for cracks.  key locations...steering head, swing arm mount.  That's where all the magic forces are and frames to tend to fail in those locations if there going to.  That isn't to say you shouldn't look everywhere.  If you have a painted frame look for paint that is separating from the frame and for cracks in the paint.  Tell tale signs that something is amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Filter - Inspect and change.  If you use the ethanol because your country hates poor people eating corn you should probably change it pretty regular.  Ethanol is the beast and it makes everything fail.  Your fuel filter might not be an inline filter, it might be in your gas tank and apart of your fuel pump.  It's not that bad, read the directions in your hand OEM Shop Manual (not Haynes) and get to it and clean it.  If it's an inline, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor - This get's tricky.  Too much information for you already and my fingers are jammed up.  Adjust the air and fuel screw as necessary or not at all.  It's going to be your judgement and no amount typing is going to effect it.  If you have two carbs then you will need to get vacuum gauges and synchronize the carbs.  Never synch carbs before valve adjustment.  Only after.  Check vacuum lines and make sure the rubber and nice and pliable.  If it's heat baked and hard, toss it and replace it.  Or R&amp;amp;R, if you will.  No debate.  Not worth it, too cheap.  Away the hardened vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;FI - At some point maintenance would call for cleaning the injectors and replacing the O-rings or whatever sealing mechanism your bike uses.  Do it per the maintenance schedule.  When they begin to fail you get tiny air leaks that become worse over time.  The added oxygen increases combustion temp and can fry your exhaust valves in the summer.  There's no ODBII fanciness with bikes, each one is friggin snowflake with it's own unique way of getting error codes.  If you have an FI light on, look in the fancy shop manual (not the haynes, the official shop manual for the manufacture with all the good information that's accurate) and follow the instructions on how to pull the error codes, it's usually very simple and will typically involve removing a rubber cover off a loom connector and using a piece of wire to jump two leads together then all this magical information like error codes pops up on your display.  You can then reference your error codes in your fancy shop manual and take appropriate action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's all I got off the top of my head.  I'm sure I missed something like an oil drain bolt but hey, I'm only human.  I hope this is helpful.  Enjoy maintaining your bike.  It's empowering and awesome and makes us all more self reliant which more than it is less. Please excuse the bounty of typo's that I'm sure are everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:04:02.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:12:35.890" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Myth&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(Or, how to blame customers for bad brake jobs, since the problems usually take a while to show up)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is passed off as a &quot;warped rotor&quot;, and blamed on the user running through a puddle after heating the brakes, is a myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shimmy feeling that comes from brakes is usually due to uneven friction material build-up on the rotor. This transfer from pad to rotor is supposed to happen, indeed it makes the brakes work better, which is why brakes function better after break-in. However when it happens unevenly, it produces a shaking or shimmy feeling. Why does it build up unevenly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are four major reasons for uneven friction buildup on rotors:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotors were of uneven thickness when new. Build-up occurs on the thick spots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotors were eccentric when new or as installed. Build-up occurs on the high spots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uneven pad engagement. Pads installed not parallel to the rotor, or engaging unevenly due to rough unlubricated surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Improper break-in (a.k.a. &quot;bedding&quot;). Typically this involves heating the brakes up, then coming to a hard stop and leaving the brakes on hard. This puts a &quot;pad imprint&quot; on one part of the rotor, that will continue to catch more pad material and build up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, it is the uneven friction as the rotor turns that causes the shimmy feeling, not a &quot;warped rotor&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since learning all this, I do the following and have eliminated all brake shimmy in my personal fleet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preventing brake shimmy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking all rotor's width at 8 spots round the disc with a micrometer. Thickness eccentricity should be zero, must be under .0015&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check all installs with a dial indicator for runout. Spin the rotor with indicator at 90 degrees on the rotor face near the outer edge. Runout should be zero, must be under .004&quot;, the less the better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean pad back, piston, and caliper. Replace shims. Proper and complete lubrication of all metal-to-metal contact points. I use Sil-Glyde, but there are other purpose made lubricants that will work. This allows pads to slide instead of tilt, and gives even contact pressure across the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During break-in, avoid leaving the hydraulic brakes on after a hard stop on heated brakes. Coast, use the handbrake for the final stop, whatever it takes. (It is the front rotors that do all the work and heat the most).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take my word for it, listen to the expert, here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T19:20:26.797" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T19:20:26.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15265" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:21:01.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably have the same engine, is it the 9HP Tecumseh Snow King? There are several possibilities. Here is what you can do to debug the problem when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water intrusion to the ignition area. Pull the spark plug, put it against the block, and pull the starter while looking for spark. Best done in the shade. Better yet use an inline spark tester.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vapor lock. This is where the carb gets so hot, the fuel boils and a bubble blocks further fuel flow. These era Tecumseh's came with awful carburetors. Replace it. Engine will restart after it cools off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overheat lockup. Try the manual pull starter. If it turns over (even if it doesn't start), this is not the problem. If it is locked up, you have to address the cause of the situation, either lack of oil or insufficient airflow for cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T01:21:01.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24281" CreationDate="2016-01-07T02:28:04.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the voltage of the white/blue wire at the alternator connector. It should be at least 12 volts if the alternator charging voltage is greater than 13 volts. If there is no voltage here then the regulator in the alternator is no good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This signal goes first to the PCM then to the multiplex control unit and then to the instrument cluster. Testing it after it leaves the alternator is challenging, Honda gives no test procedure for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:28:04.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15877" CreationDate="2016-01-07T02:38:55.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiberglass and Bondo. You will need lots of sand paper and strong arms if you don't have access to a compressor and air sanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:38:55.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:32:13.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frequently, a motorcyclist will adjust his/her front forks up or down in the triple clamps to change trail and rake on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing trail and rake on a motorcycle can effect the handling of the vehicle and change the weight distribution under cornering and braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the rake makes the bike more stable at higher speeds and decreases responsiveness of turning input at the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decreasing the rake makes the bike more prone to speed wobbles (at the extreme) and sharpens turning input responsiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By raising the forks in a set of triple clamps there will be more weight distributed to a motorcycles front wheel.  Where additional wear can come into play is corning with the added weight.  This makes the turning much sharper and requires less energy/input to perform the turn.  This will wear out a tire much quicker than an opposite fork tube/triple clamp placement configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of forks raised in triple clamps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQbiJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQbiJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you have done this, raised your forks in the triple clamps, then this can account for a higher rate of wear on your front tire.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own wear per tire looks like two rear tires for every one front.  I ride my bike pretty hard and trail brake into corners VERY hard when I'm out having fun.  I'm punish my ride and wring every last penny of fun I can out of it.  (mind you I am very conservative on city streets) So I feel like I torture my tires as good as the next guy.  Also, I don't do silly things like break stands or rip wheelies all the time to account for increased rear tire wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T21:02:31.090" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:02:31.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:49:05.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cast aluminum.  It may have an anti-oxidation coating on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does, you'll need to eat it off with aircraft paint stripper or a parts dip first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, heat it up with a torch, not too hot, and slowly bend it back into shape.  Take your time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this for my kid on his dirtbikes, which he constantly dropped and his road racing bike, which he constantly crashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had one break after doing this due to use.  I've had them break as the bike tumbled down the track though.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T03:49:05.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T04:39:48.797" Score="8" ViewCount="10312" Body="&lt;p&gt;My IAC is bad and in order to keep my car running while a stop sign/light is to have one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this an effective fix to travel until I get it fixed?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I just not drive it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14101" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T06:56:28.203" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:08:27.383" Title="Is it healthy to drive with a bad IAC?" Tags="|rough-idle|driving|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-09T01:34:31.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2016-01-07T05:13:00.137" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multi-cylinder vehicles with multiple carbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To port this question over to applicability with cars.  This is the same issue that has plagued older Ferrari and Jaguar mechanics over the years.  The 'balancing act'.  If you have a V12 and 6 or 12 carbs, getting them all balanced and uniformly restrictive in terms of allowing air into them can be very challenging.  MOST multi-cylinder motorcycles have 1 carb or throttle body per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late 70's through Early 2000 Multi-Carbed Motorcycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the factory, your fuel screw is blocked by a small aluminum plug.  You cannot adjust air/fuel ratio (AFR) on this bike until you drill out the plugs.  They are very easy to remove.  They are dangerous to drill out.  If you penetrate through the aluminum plug you can push your drill down to the brass air adjustment screw and turn it all the way in.  There is a needle at the end that will enter the air galley and get stuck.  When you try and turn it out the pin snaps off into the air galley which provides proper AFR at idle and just off idle, since it's an air galley, it will be rich on that cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AFR and carburetor synchronization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do interact and have some effect on one another.  That being said,  if you give one cylinder a super lean condition and the other a super rich one you can effect the synchronization.  As well, the inverse is not true.  If you have one carb set open too much and the other one closed off, their AFR won't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synchronizing - Tools and Tricks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand some of the other respondents suggested using the water method with tubing going up a long piece of cardboard.  That's not really for me.  I've done back in the day but, I like to work on bikes and I worked for a real stiff chap that cut his teeth at HRC in the Pan-Pacific side car series with a works team.  No junk tools, do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tool like this is one that I recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA65Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA65Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The big reason I recommend these is that they come with the brass or SS fittings that you need to screw into your manifold to take the readings.  They look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gc3Tz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gc3Tz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide, the water tub/tube fancy trick or the vacuum gauge method, you will need those fittings.  You can google &quot;motorcycle carburetor synchronize brass fitting&quot; and you will be able to procure them from someone somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;when you get the right kit you get all the different sizes of fittings, if you don't, you need to make sure you order the ones with the correct thread pitch, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of location of manifold plug screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5jNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5jNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will insert those brass fittings into your manifold after removing the plug screw.  The plug screw, if not removed for some time, will have fused to the aluminum because the screw has some iron in it.  The oxidation melds together, I forgot the name of the process.  IF the screw is stuck, hit with a torch for a bit and squirt water right on the screw.  The expansion and contraction should free it up enough to break it (the bond) so you can get it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On almost all four cylinder MC's you balance the bank in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance carb/cylinder 1 and 2 together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance carb/cylinder 3 and 4 together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance pair 1 and 2 to the pair of 3 and 4&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three screws to balance the 4 carburetors together.  One for each 'pair' of balancing you do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have everything hooked up, start the bike and let it warm up.  Make sure you are off choke and set the idle at about 1500 RPM initially with the idle screw.  This will keep you from stalling while you screw up the balance and bring it back in.  When the bike is out of balance the idle will increase.  The bank that is off will drive the idle up.  It may sound smooth.  Don't fall for it, it's a ruse.  They are out of balance when the tool says they are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have them synched, set the idle to factory spec, probably between 900 and 1100 RPM depending on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location of the balancing screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fliSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fliSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reminder&lt;/strong&gt; - make sure your fuel screws, float levels and AFR are good on all of them first.  In a shop, synchronization is always done after everything else is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve adjustment  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set Floats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set air screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust jet needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balance carburetors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T00:10:44.583" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T00:10:44.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2016-01-07T05:35:47.757" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on how you do the skipping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, when you do it, you hear loud clunks, that means you are not matching the RPM's to the road speed, to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycles have a synchronous transmission with with relatively fragile shift forks operated by a shift drum.  The forks move the gears side to side to engage.  if you are hearing a loud 'clack' when you do this. Stop doing it.  You dogs and slots on the gears will get worn and eventually the bike will fall out of gear while your driving, hit a 'false neutral' and then clack and clack as it's trying  to get back in gear.  When this happens you run a higher likelyhood of getting  bent shift fork, which means a total tear down for most MC engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of a damaged Gear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JveIV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JveIV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a damaged shift fork&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsGYF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsGYF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend this type of shifting unless you are seasoned and can do it silently.  If you can speed shift, you can probably do this as speed shifting is all throttle control and timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MC transmissions are fragile.  They aren't corvettes, corvettes (most manual cars) have a completely different mechanism for shifting.  They are not synchronous transmissions.  Be nice to your speed triple, it's beautiful, but it's a teacup of a transmission, just like my Aprilia or Suzuki's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch this video of a transmission shifting.  You will understand my paranoia more.  I've had to split too many cases fixing the results of poor shifting practices.  I don't want you to have to deal with that issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT-CmXCFlQw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Transmission Shifting in Action&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EMIdGgsQ68&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's another one with a different view.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T05:35:47.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3484" CreationDate="2016-01-07T06:02:52.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the image below notice that there are no rocker arms or push rods.  The cam acts directly on the shim and bucket which acts on the valve stem.  You adjust the valves by changing out different shims to get the appropriate valve clearence.  In this image, the shim is over the bucket.  This is what your Yamaha has.  You have an Over the Bucket Shim to adjust valve clearance.***&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an image of a shim and bucket valve train.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYuRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYuRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solution&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though all of your symptoms seem like carburetors.  It is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you are experiencing is out of adjustment valves.  The symptoms are these depending on the severity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starts but runs poorly once hot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard starting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rough idle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor low RPM response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power loss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is counter-intuitive.  You are looking for no valve clearance as opposed to too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shim and bucket setup will lead to zero clearance situations where the valve can actually hang open and there is a tiny gap between the valve seat and valve face in the head. When this condition arises the vehicle is hard starting, poor idling and general runs like a bag of hammers. One valve hanging open can lead to a very poor running/idling condition that improves with higher RPM. Running a compression test can give you breadcrumbs and hints but a leak down test will truly determine if this condition is occurring. It's a very common issue and is considered general maintenance to adjust your valves.  This bike is notorious for needing frequent valve adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens as the valves get super hot and get beat in and then the engine cools, the valve shortens.  So you get into a situation where the condition can get worse when the engine heats up and the valve doesn't make contact with face.  It will actually hang open just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the mechanical beating of the valve face against the valve seat, you get a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is adjust the valves.  You remove the cams after measuring everything out with a feeler gauge and documenting it and then subtract the value you need to get valve clearance and goto the Honda shop and order up some shims.  Be sure you put the shims in a cupcake backing pan or ice tray, something where you can keep track of where they go, exhaust cylinder 3 etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my sons first track bike.  I was adjusting the valves endlessly because he was a kid beating the bike up and keeping it at very high RPM's every single time he rode it.  A race weekend was three days of hard riding and I would have to adjust the valves at least once for every three weekends.  You have a bullet proof bike that will take a ton of punishment.  Adjust those valves and you will love it like the day you got it.  I promise.  It's a great bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T14:48:27.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24341" CreationDate="2016-01-07T07:44:57.733" Score="10" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a statement in a post regarding Formula 1 valve trains being pneumatic or magnetic.  Are there valve trains driven magnetically or pneumatically that are on the market?  When did they start using these kinds of valve trains?  Does this mean they don't have camshafts and are controlled by a computer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastActivityDate="2022-08-27T14:10:26.597" Title="Formula 1 valve trains" Tags="|engine|valve|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24403" CreationDate="2016-01-07T07:48:45.500" Score="11" ViewCount="20467" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends Tacoma has the flashing green 4x4 light going on the dash.  I read the instructions regarding putting it into 4 wheel drive, 2 wheel drive and 4x4 low and nothing changed. We drove it to an auto zone and the guy hooked up the scanner and said no codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on what we can do next?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;The 4x4 light is supposed to stay on green.  I had not used it in 3 months.  When I started the car in the morning it was flashing green for no apparent reason.  No codes from a scan have shown up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*please, if someone tells me to take it to the dealership, I'm gonna freak out.  I already know we can do that    :-)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:15:04.153" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T21:25:10.980" Title="2013 Toyota Tacoma flashing 4x4 light on dash" Tags="|toyota|4wd|tacoma|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24311" CreationDate="2016-01-07T08:16:11.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This wont do any damage to your engine until you have an accident making a mistake with the pedals:)  The IAC would only doing the same function that you are doing manually.  I do think you have more of a problem than the IAC being faulty, since it should just add extra air when you switch things on like the lights, air con etc.  Maybe your throttle butterfly valve is dirty and not allowing sufficient air through for normal idle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T08:16:11.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24277" CreationDate="2016-01-07T08:42:59.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking any time your tire pressure is &lt;strong&gt;more than 10% over or under&lt;/strong&gt; the ratings I would definitely correct the pressure ASAP and check the tread wear too. In your case 10% is 3 or 4 pounds and you are seeing the tire is low by about 8 pounds (20+%) which is way too much discrepancy. Pump it up and keep a close eye on it for a week or so to be sure you don't have a slow leak. If it drops again go see your local mechanic / tire guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, @corsiKa makes an important point above ... the temperature when you measure is also a factor. Extreme cold will temporarily lower the tire pressure a couple of PSI and extreme heat will similarly raise it temporarily. Plus long drives can heat up the air in a tire from friction even on a cold day. Keep these issues in mind both when measuring and when adding air to tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14103" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T08:42:59.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24325" CreationDate="2016-01-07T08:45:17.697" Score="1" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting some new alloy wheels for my car. How do I find out what rim sizes or specifications are compatible with my car? Or any car for that matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these stats on wheel-size.com I don't know if this information will help answer my question.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbXpC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbXpC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Passat Wheel Stats&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:46:28.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:46:28.730" Title="2004 VW Passat B5 How To Choose New Wheels" Tags="|wheels|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24329" CreationDate="2016-01-07T08:48:38.260" Score="21" ViewCount="2594" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my VW Passat B5 tires, there is a marking that reads &quot;195/65R15 91 V&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean? Do I have to get replacement tires with this exact marking on the side of the tire in the future or not? And if not, how can it differ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a duplicate as the other question is incomplete as it just tells the size, this covers the other markings too and gives more in depth, complete answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T20:24:57.083" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T09:33:20.950" Title="How To Read Car Tires" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24323" CreationDate="2016-01-07T09:01:34.433" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means the surface is 195mm wide, the sidewall height is 65% of the width (195x0.65=127mm) and they fit a 15 inch wheel, 195-65-15. These give all the important dimensions of the tyres and shouldn't be changed. Doing so will give you a bigger or smaller tyre which could confuse your car's computers, causing ESP and ABS faults as well as affecting the accuracy of your speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;91 is a load rating, you can look this up on a chart but 91 equates to a rating of 615 kilos. This is the maximum designed load to be carried by the tyre.&#xA;V is a speed rating, again you can look this up but V equates to 149MPH. This means the tyre is designed to cope with speed of up to 149MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The load rating and speed rating are less critical if you stick to speed limits and bear in mind the weight of your car and its contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T09:01:34.433" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24322" CreationDate="2016-01-07T09:25:14.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to get wheels you know fit - i.e. ones specifically sold to fit a Passat ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you'll need something compatible - the key things are the PCD (bolt pattern), offset (ET) and centre bore (CB above). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt pattern is obvious, it's how many bolts you have (5) and how far apart they are (equally spaced around a 112mm diameter circle). Centre bore is the size of the hole in the centre of the wheel - if it's too small, the wheel won't go on, and if it's too big, it'll be a loose fit and put extra stress on the wheel bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offset is how far in or out the wheel sits - the more positive it is, the further into the wheelarch the wheel sits. The other numbers under 'Rim' above give the size of the wheel (e.g. 6jx15 is a 6 inch wide by 15 inch diameter wheel) - the combination of size and offset is important to ensure the wheel doesn't rub the inside of the wheelarch, or the suspension components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is that even if you get something with the right PCD, bore, size, and offset, it still might not fit - particularly on performance cars with big brakes... It's best to try a wheel on the car before buying...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T09:25:14.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24311" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:05:59.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As HandyHowie said, this won't cause any damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a better way, based on the assumption that you have a foot on the brake because you leave the car in D at the lights. If the car will still idle in N with a bad IAC, select N as you're coming to a stop and put it back in D as you press the gas pedal to set off again. Make sure the revs are up a bit before selecting D. You'll also save fuel this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastEditorUserId="13786" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T17:08:27.383" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:08:27.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24328" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:18:01.603" Score="37" ViewCount="12969" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fans that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RCwee.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RCwee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it to somehow help the balance of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T00:47:22.503" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T21:01:18.560" Title="Why are the blades of car radiator fans unevenly spaced?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|cooling-system|fan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24327" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:51:14.893" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't something restricted to old vehicles; my Lumina has fans like this, though not as irregular as the picture shown in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vW7O1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vW7O1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lumina SS Cooling Fans&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can recall, the chief reason cited for this by the manufacturer is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;noise reduction&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll notice the additional weight on some of the blades to ensure that rotational balance is maintained despite the asymmetry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T22:10:20.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T22:10:20.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24323" CreationDate="2016-01-07T12:28:29.740" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code&quot;&gt;tyre code&lt;/a&gt; is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An optional letter indicating the intended vehicle class.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre doesn't have one (or you omitted it) but it should be a P for passenger car.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possible values are:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; for Passenger Car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LT&lt;/strong&gt; for Light Truck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ST&lt;/strong&gt; for Special Trailer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; for Temporary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digits before the slash indicate the tyre width in millimetres.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre has a width of 195 millimetres, which is a little over 7&amp;frac12; inches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digits after the slash indicate the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre has a sidewall height of 65% &amp;times; 195 millimetres which equals 126.75 millimetres or about 5 inches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The letter after that indicates the type of tyre.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre is an R for radial.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possible values are:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; for Bias Belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; for Diagonal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; for Radial  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If omitted, it's a cross-ply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The digits directly after that letter indicate the diameter of the rim &lt;em&gt;in inches&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre is mounted on a 15 inch rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The digits after the space are the load index.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre is rated for a load up to 615 kilogrammes (1,356 lb), which is &lt;em&gt;per tyre&lt;/em&gt;. Assuming four tyres, that comes to a maximum total weight of 2460 kilogrammes of your car plus everything in and on it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possible values range from &lt;strong&gt;60&lt;/strong&gt; for 250 kg / 550 lb to &lt;strong&gt;125&lt;/strong&gt; for 1,650 kg / 3640 lb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The letter after that is the speed rating.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your tyre is rated V for speeds up to 240 km/h (149 mph).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Possible values are:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A1&lt;/strong&gt; for 5 km/h / 3 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A2&lt;/strong&gt; for 10 km/h / 6 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A3&lt;/strong&gt; for 15 km/h / 9 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A4&lt;/strong&gt; for 20 km/h / 12 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A5&lt;/strong&gt; for 25 km/h / 16 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A6&lt;/strong&gt; for 30 km/h / 19 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A7&lt;/strong&gt; for 35 km/h / 22 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A8&lt;/strong&gt; for 40 km/h / 25 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; for 50 km/h / 31 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt; for 60 km/h / 37 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; for 65 km/h / 40 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; for 70 km/h / 43 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F&lt;/strong&gt; for 80 km/h / 50 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G&lt;/strong&gt; for 90 km/h / 56 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;J&lt;/strong&gt; for 100 km/h / 62 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;K&lt;/strong&gt; for 110 km/h / 68 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt; for 120 km/h / 75 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt; for 130 km/h / 81 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; for 140 km/h / 87 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; for 150 km/h / 94 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q&lt;/strong&gt; for 160 km/h / 100 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; for 170 km/h / 106 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt; for 180 km/h / 112 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; for 190 km/h / 118 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt; for 200 km/h / 124 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt; for 210 km/h / 130 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V&lt;/strong&gt; for 240 km/h / 149 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt; for over 240 km/h / over 149 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt; for 270 km/h / 168 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(W)&lt;/strong&gt; for over 270 km/h / over 168 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt; for 300 km/h / 186 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Y)&lt;/strong&gt; for over 300 km/h / over 186 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14105" LastEditorUserId="14105" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T09:33:20.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T09:33:20.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:31:40.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What burns out the coil packs on many cars is the plugs not being replaced at the proper intervals, so the gap gets so large between the terminals that the coilpack has to generate a much higher voltage spark which then burns out the secondary coil in the transformer of the coilpack. &#xA;Which is why, after you have replaced the offending coilpack you should either gap &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; correctly or replace the complete set, otherwise you will have a cascade of the other 3 coilpacks going.&#xA;A point about the oil consumption, there are mainly three ways where the oil can come out of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting past the oil scraper ring either because the ring set is worn on one or more cylinders or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the overrun; as in the situation where the car is trying to go faster than the engine, going downhill or coming up to a roundabout where you are using the engine to slow down. In this situation if the valve oil seals are weak or worn out, the oil in the valve chest is sucked down the valve stems by the vacuum in the manifold. Smoke only visible on acceleration after the above situation. Get someone to follow you and check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other reasons but I believe those are the main ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution..... &#xA;To 1. Locate and fix&#xA;To 2. Engine rebuild with cylinders rebored and new rings.&#xA;To 3. There are ways of replacing these seals without removing the head but that is a specialist job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is if the car is old or high mileage, is it worth it. &#xA;Get quotes from several garages, don't go for the cheapest, go for the one with best reputation.... Ask around.&#xA;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14107" LastEditorUserId="14107" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T13:45:55.517" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:45:55.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24345" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:41:30.403" Score="4" ViewCount="4745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the following tire codes, for instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;195/65R15 91 V&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;245/40R18 97 Y&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the &amp;quot;V&amp;quot; signify? What other letter codes are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T09:47:33.503" Title="What does the letter at the end of a tire code signify?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-09T01:35:03.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24332" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:53:24.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That letter is the speed rating of the tyre - i.e. the maximum speed the tyre is rated for - for example, V is rated for 149mph/240kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say you can use a lower rated tyre if you're not going to drive as fast, however many insurance companies will insist that you use a suitable rating for your car - you can find this online at various tyre supplier websites, or in the user manual for your car (mine has it on the sticker with the tyre pressures - Q to V in my case, depending on the type of tyre (Q for snow, V for summer tyres)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:53:24.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15543" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:36:22.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is passed off as a &quot;warped rotor&quot;, and blamed on the user running through a puddle after heating the brakes, is a myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shimmy feeling that comes from brakes is usually due to uneven friction material build-up on the rotor. This transfer from pad to rotor is supposed to happen, indeed it makes the brakes work better, which is why brakes function better after break-in. However when it happens unevenly, it produces a shaking or shimmy feeling. Why does it build up unevenly? There are three major reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotors were eccentric when new. It takes time for the pads to wear a bit and the friction materal build-up to occur. What's more there is lubricant on the pad ears, pad backs, caliper pins, etc., that happily allow movement on a new brake job (hopefully), but this lubricant gets washed off over time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotors were of uneven thickness when new. The results are the same as #1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Improper break-in. Typically this involves heating the brakes up, then coming to a hard stop and leaving the brakes on hard. This puts a &quot;pad imprint&quot; on one part of the rotor, that will continue to catch more pad material and build up... creating the shimmy feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since learning all this, I have eliminated all brake shimmy in my personal fleet by doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checking all rotor widths with a micrometer, and all installs with a dial caliper for runout.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Proper and complete lubrication of all contact points. I use Sil-Glyde, but there are other purpose made lubricants that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During break-in, avoid leaving the hydraulic brakes on after a hard stop. Coast, use the handbrake for the final stop, whatever it takes. (It is the front rotors that do all the work and heat the most).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take my word for it, listen to the expert, here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:36:22.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:53:37.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On this particular engine, there is a breather pod on the back of the engine block, located below the inlet manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pod can become blocked and the net result is excessive oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the pod and either replace it or clean it thoroughly using something like mentholated spirits or fuel system cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Access is awkward and you may have more success going in from underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variations of this breather pod have been fitted to VW groups small block water-cooled engines since the early seventies and cleaning or replacing them almost always leads to a significant improvement in both oil consumption and engine performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coil pack on these engines are notorious for failure and it is very unlikely this has anything to do with the excessive oil consumption.  It's worth the expense to source a genuine or Bosch branded coil pack should you have to replace this part again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T14:53:37.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:02:41.460" Score="6" ViewCount="4129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Vauxhall zafira which I bought a year ago.  I was told upon buying the vehicle that its pads and discs would need replacing soon so I changed them straight away (with genuine Vauxhall ones, not cheap ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is always a horrible grinding type sound when I come to a stop, using my clutch.  This only happens once the car has warmed up (not first thing in the morning).  The brakes seem to be performing well, so I have no concerns there, however my mechanic has confirmed that the noise has nothing to do with the brakes, and is actually the flywheel making that sound, something to do with the grease?  He's told me that it's nothing to worry about, and that changing the flywheel would be expensive and unnecessary.  His conclusion was to just put up with the noise as it is nothing serious, but I am still worrying.  Does anybody understand what the problem could be and if it is serious or not?  My mechanic is a trusted friend, however my head is telling me not to ignore the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14111" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T17:24:14.367" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T17:10:19.993" Title="Awful sound when coming to a stop even after brake pads and discs replaced" Tags="|brakes|clutch|noise|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:15:25.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm a bit late to the party, and perhaps you are perfectly aware of the following, but I noticed that nobody has mentioned this: do you &lt;strong&gt;apply a bit of pressure on the shifter pedal&lt;/strong&gt;, right before depressing the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so helps to tremendously smooth out gear changes on many motorcycles, as the new gear is essentially spun up to speed before attempting to actually engage it. You'll find that the motorcycle will pop into the next gear much more willingly than when you just hit the clutch and kick up. Half a second of light pressure is usually enough - don't apply much pressure for a long time, as doing so will cause extra gearbox wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes are very sensitive to this technique, while others show no real improvement - YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even try &lt;em&gt;clutchless upshifting&lt;/em&gt;, where you just apply upwards pressure on the gear selector and flick the throttle towards the closed position briefly. By reducing the throttle, you remove engine torque from the gearbox and allow it to shift (which you normally do using the clutch). If done smoothly and correctly, a clutchless upshift reduces clutch wear (since you're not using it!) and yields no extra gearbox wear. The chief benefits are a much quicker shift and less hand strain on long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: personally, I don't recommend using a clutchless technique for regular everyday downshifting. When shifting down, good riding practice is to use the clutch in order to roughly rev-match the engine speed to the road speed. If you don't rev-match, the rotation speed difference is absorbed by the bike's inertia. This sharp and sudden engine braking effect can cause your rear wheel to lose grip and induces extra wear on the transmission and final drive. Nonetheless, as mentioned by DucatiKiller in the comments below, it's definitely possible to mitigate this effect and smoothen the shift to some extent by blipping the throttle open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13363" LastEditorUserId="13363" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:32:08.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:32:08.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24378" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:36:00.423" Score="9" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00T1718JU&quot;&gt;LED low-beam conversion kit&lt;/a&gt; and installed it yesterday in my 2010 Forester.  The installation was easy enough, other than having to move the battery to get enough space to fit my headlight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not sure whether I've done an adequate job attaching the ballasts (the square-ish metal bricks that convert the regular headlight power connection, and limit the current, to what the LED lights need).  I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Convert-Your-Headlight-Bulbs-to-LED/?ALLSTEPS&quot;&gt;this Instructable&lt;/a&gt; which recommended double-stick-tape, which I used - but I'm not convinced this is going to hold for years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is double-stick-tape a secure way to mount this?  Is there a better option that I would have at home (I'm at the 'change oil and headlights' level of mechanical ability with cars, but not beyond that)?  Should I ask my mechanic next time I take it in for something else to attach it better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If relevant, both ballasts are currently secured to a metal part of the frame, below the headlights.  The Forester has tiny dust covers behind the headlight bulbs (just round caps maybe 5&quot; diameter and less than an inch tall) which I'm not able to use because the bulb (with the heat sink) is too long, so I can't attach to those like the Instructable recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11431" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:39:05.063" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:39:05.063" Title="How can I secure the power block for my LED headlights?" Tags="|subaru|headlight|forester|led|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24318" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:50:19.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it's probably important to review what valves do and how they're supposed to work on a four stroke internal combustion engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What valves do&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially there are intake valves and exhaust valves with a minimum of one of each per piston, but F1 cars (and many modern road cars) use two of each.  The following description will use &quot;valve&quot; singular, but it should be understood that in multi-valve engines, the valves operate in synchrony -- that is, whether the engine has one or two intake valves, they are in the same position at each instant in time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake valve allows the fuel/air mixture into the cylinder as the piston moves down (away from the valve) and then closes so that the mixture can be compressed by the rising piston.  It's then ignited by a spark and the resulting mini-explosion pushes the piston back down.  That's the power stroke.  Finally, the piston comes back up as the exhaust valve opens and the exhaust gas is pushed out of the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How they work&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As should be obvious from the above description, the valves must be exactly synchronized to the operation of the pistons moving up and down.  If they were to get out of synchronization, the engine would have less power (if they're slightly off timing), or not run at all (if they're grossly off timing) or destroy the engine by causing the pistons to crash into the valves, bending or breaking the valves (in some designs).  For many decades, and up to the current time, most engines use cams to push the valve down (opening it) and springs to close the valve again. It's inexpensive, reliable, efficient and a well-proven design, but there are limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Let's go racing!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When engine speeds go up, the valves have to go faster. An F1 car is designed to rotate up to 15,000 RPM according to the current regulations; previous seasons' cars revved even higher.  Typical road-going cars have &quot;red line&quot; at around half that.  (&quot;Red line&quot; refers to an actual red line on the tachometer which is intended to indicate &quot;if you go beyond this point, severe engine damage is likely!&quot;)  When an engine is turning that fast, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24002/675&quot;&gt;the spring becomes an issue&lt;/a&gt;.  First, it needs to act very quickly.  We can make it close the valve quicker by using a stiffer spring, but then we need to expend more energy compressing the spring each time the cam rotates to close the valve.  Further, it was found that at certain engine speeds near the spring's resonant frequency, the valves don't close as quickly as they should, so some racing engines use two or three concentric springs with different resonant frequencies to overcome this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Springtime in Paris&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One approach that was used successfully by Renault originally (yes, I know they're not actually based in Paris, but I couldn't resist using the heading) and soon after by all F1 engine manufacturers was a pneumatic valve.  Essentially, it's just a diaphragm filled with an inert gas such as nitrogen that acts like a spring, but faster.  They also have the advantage of lower weight, which is always of interest to racing engineers.  Keep in mind that while pneumatic valves &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be used at lower RPMs, the problem they're meant to solve is at such high RPMs far above those that the family sedan could withstand, so that's why they're not (yet) used in road cars.  There's also a system called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23962/why-did-ducati-decide-to-use-the-desmodromic-valve-train-rather-than-a-more-trad?rq=1&quot;&gt;desmodromic&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which essentially uses two cam lobes -- one to open the valve and another to close it. &lt;strike&gt;To my knowledge it hasn't ever been used in F1&lt;/strike&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Forgive me Fangio, for I have sinned!&lt;/em&gt;  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W196#Engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1954 Mercedes-Benz W196&lt;/a&gt; employed desmodromic valves.), and the primary user is Ducati in their motorcycles.  This is already long enough, so I won't describe that one here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can we do still better?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cam system I've been describing works well, but it's a compromise. The timing and duration of the periods that each valve is open is fixed by the shape of the camshaft lobes and the speed of the engine.  At &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; point in the engine's RPM range, a particular cam shaft provides the optimal duration and timing, but only at that one point. For every other engine speed, it's going to be sub optimal in terms of efficiency or power or both.  Ideally, we'd want better control of the valves to assure ideal settings at more than one specific RPM value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How can we improve valve control?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to address this.  One simple way to do it is to have two cam lobes per valve and use an actuator that changes which one actually opens the valve.  That's essentially exactly what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17365/675&quot;&gt;Honda's VTEC system&lt;/a&gt; does.  We can do even better by continuously varying the cam timing, which is what Toyota's VVT-i, BMW's VANOS and Porsche's Variocam systems do. They all have the ability to &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; vary the cam timing so that the engine is operating at peak power in a much broader range of engine speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's good, but we can imagine going still further.  Even better would be to eliminate the cam entirely and use, for example, a solenoid under computer control.  Obviously both the solenoid and the computer controlling it would have to precisely duplicate the timing that is currently being provided mechanically by the cams, but it has a significant potential advantage in both weight savings and in extremely flexible control allowing moment-by-moment dynamic adjustments of valve timing.  However, this has proven very difficult to actually achieve reliably, so no production engines have yet been produced that use this kind of technology.  Koenigsegg is rumored to be close, but few of us are going to be able to afford one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Which variable valve system is used in F1?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer may surprise you: &lt;strong&gt;none of them&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you read through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fia.com/regulations/regulation/fia-formula-one-world-championship-110&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2016 Formula 1 Technical Regulations&lt;/a&gt; (and who doesn't?!) you'll see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5.9.2 Variable valve timing and variable valve lift profile systems are not permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drive proud!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you have it. While there is a lot of cool technology in F1 engines, including pneumatic valve &quot;springs,&quot; you can smugly drive down the street in your primer-gray 1999 Honda Prelude with the missing fender and dented hood knowing that your engine actually incorporates technology that no current F1 car has -- variable valve timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:39:53.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24343" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:06:52.677" Score="9" ViewCount="3768" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever i engage my 4x4, the 4x4 light flashes. It didn't used to do this. Its annoying watching it flash. Any ideas what could be causing it to flash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T16:13:46.067" Title="2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4x4 flashing" Tags="|electrical|suzuki|grand-vitara|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24342" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:13:46.067" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 4x4 system uses air/vacuum power to engage the 4x4 system.  The flashing 4x4 light indicates a leak has been detected in the system.  Depending on the severity of the leak, the 4x4 system might not be fully functional and wheels may intermittently slip, or not lock at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pump located behind the front bumper that maintains pressure in the system.  The flashing light could be caused by anything from a bad pump to a small leak in an air/vacuum hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T16:13:46.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:16:36.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While pretty rare, you could have a tiny crack in the wheel rim itself. You did mention using a hammer to free the wheel once upon a time. Try swapping two tires and see if the leak stays with the rubber or the metal component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14103" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T16:16:36.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24332" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:48:26.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;V&quot; you're asking about is the Speed Rating of the tire. There's a speed rating for almost every letter of the alphabet: (note that H decided to cut in line for some reason...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A1-A8 - Steps from 3 mph to 25 mph&#xA;B - Up to 31 mph&#xA;C - Up to 37 mph&#xA;D - Up to 40 mph&#xA;E - Up to 43 mph&#xA;F - Up to 50 mph&#xA;G - Up to 56 mph&#xA;J - Up to 62 mph&#xA;K - Up to 68 mph&#xA;L - Up to 75 mph&#xA;M - Up to 81 mph&#xA;N - Up to 87 mph&#xA;P - Up to 94 mph&#xA;Q - Up to 100 mph&#xA;R - Up to 106 mph&#xA;S - Up to 112 mph&#xA;T - Up to 118 mph&#xA;U - Up to 124 mph&#xA;H - Up to 130 mph&#xA;V - Up to 149 mph&#xA;W - Up to 168 mph&#xA;Y - Up to 186 mph&#xA;Z - 149 mph and over&#xA;ZR - 186 mph and over&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's quite a list, but in practice, you will only ever see tires in the S-Z range for regular highway use.  It seems like a &quot;P&quot; tire would be just fine for any public road, but there's always a margin of safety that you need to think about.  Even then, a speed rating of &quot;H&quot; doesn't mean the tire will fail and explode at 131 mph, it just means the tire will start to deform and will not perform well at higher speeds.  Of course, &quot;not performing well&quot; is actually a big deal for the car at 130+, but the tire won't immediately fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;Z&lt;/strong&gt; is purposely less than W or Y because it is meant to be a generic &quot;over 149mph&quot; (open-ended) identifier.  When ZR is used, it means a speed rating grater than 186mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:29:33.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:29:33.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24319" CreationDate="2016-01-07T17:23:48.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM35A10U/pdf/sec_2-4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 186 of the owners manual&lt;/a&gt; there are instructions that tell you what to do when this indicator blinks.  Highlighted below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqgCL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqgCL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(highlight added for emphasis)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you've tried shifting to different modes several times, you may not know what mode it thinks it's shifting from.  You may be able to simply go through all the possible sequences described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go through all the possible sequences above and it's still blinking, the dealership or a suitable mechanic may be your only resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:23:48.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2016-01-07T17:24:16.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A grinding noise when the clutch is disengaged/engine running is usually the &quot;throw-out bearing&quot; or just &quot;clutch bearing&quot;. It might also indicate insufficient clearance between the clutch and the clutchplate, which could become very costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:24:16.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2016-01-07T17:34:18.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll bet you have a leaky fuel pump check valve. As you sit, it slowly allows the pressure from the fuel line to bleed back into the tank. You have to crank the engine over long enough to build up pressure to pump the fuel from the tank back up to the engine. I'm guessing you'll wind up replacing the fuel pump, as the check valve is usually built into it and isn't available separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:34:18.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16628" CreationDate="2016-01-07T17:51:55.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible for the coolant to leave through the exhaust, if the head is warped or the head gasket is compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check for this, you should get a compression leak-down test done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:04:47.913" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:04:47.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="77183" CreationDate="2016-01-07T19:03:20.790" Score="11" ViewCount="4898" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some maintenance on a 2000 Porsche 911 engine (3.4l normally aspirated), I find that I can manually rotate it with a wrench on the flywheel, to a certain point but no farther and I can't figure out why it won't rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the engine from the car and replaced the rear main seal and the intermediate shaft bearing, which may have been seeping some oil and is a notorious weak spot for these engines.  The intermediate shaft bearing replacement was done using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;procedure recommended on Pelican Parts&lt;/a&gt;. (The linked procedure is for a Boxster rather than a 911, but the procedure is essentially the same.)  The chain sprocket behind the bearing is held in place temporarily by set screws to prevent it from rotating and messing up timing.  Then the bearing is replaced and the set screws removed.  I did all of that and then decided to recheck the timing to make sure everything was still OK.  It wasn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all 6 spark plugs removed, I was able to rotate the engine through about 150 degrees or so, and then it won't turn any farther.  I thought that perhaps I must have made some error and that somehow the timing was slipped (&lt;em&gt;but note that I don't know that this is the case or not&lt;/em&gt;) so I used a borescope to look inside each cylinder.  However, while some valves are open, there is still clearance between every piston top and every valve bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This diagram shows the orientations of the relevant pieces although this diagram is a slightly later version of my engine (mine has 5 chains; this one has 3).  The intermediate shaft is below the crank shaft and the intermediate shaft bearing is not quite visible in this picture.  However it's easy to visualize where it is -- it's at the far end (top of picture) of the intermediate shaft, just below the main crankshaft bearing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLYEI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLYEI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Porsche engine diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, why won't my engine turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional notes that may help better convey essential details I inadvertently left out of the original description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; turn it to TDC to check static timing but that's what I was attempting to do when I encountered this unexpected problem.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cam-locking procedure step that was inserted as a note into the linked procedure wasn't in the procedure I followed (which was in a printed book and not online), so the cams were not locked prior to this prepare and are not locked now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cams can't be locked now because the tool only works when the engine is at TDC, and see point #1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not want to risk further possible damage by rotating the engine backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Based on measurements of the angles of the camshaft ends (which are visible since I've removed the protective caps), it appears to me that if the timing is off, it's not off by much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine is currently on an engine stand with the spark plugs and transmission removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm willing and able to undertake the additional effort of removing the exhaust and cam covers, but would &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; rather avoid it until I can first make some convincing diagnosis that requires it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the full sixteen volume Porsche shop manual for this vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd really rather be driving.  :(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:02:56.117" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T14:58:07.773" Title="Why won't my engine rotate?" Tags="|porsche|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24350" CreationDate="2016-01-07T19:38:07.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is one of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, rod, main, balance or intermediate shaft, and/or cam bearings, oil or water pump, or piston rings are too tight. Re-assembly of dry clean components without using assembly lubricant will also cause excess friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air pressure resisting movement. Removing spark plugs will help here (in this case, already removed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cam(s) is/are off time, the valves can interfere with the pistons, preventing rotation. Incorrect spark plugs (too long) or a broken valve (poppet), or foreign object debris can also interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Locking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the state of the transmission/clutch/torque converter is the reason for locking. Hydro-locking is when fuel, motor oil, coolant, or other intruding liquid in the combustion changer prevents the full piston stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T14:58:07.773" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T14:58:07.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24350" CreationDate="2016-01-07T20:43:48.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You need to confirm that timing is OK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/594122-how-to-set-cam-timing-on-996-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum thread&lt;/a&gt; looks to be talking about the same engine as what you have (3.4 L, 5 chains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the post, this is what you'll have to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rotate the engine to TDC for Bank 1 (let's hope your 150° of freedom allows for this)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check that the timing notches on the cams are parallel to the cylinder head (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/541490-timing-chain-help.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;). I know the image here is a little small but it's the best I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bkQLw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bkQLw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cam timing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;repeat 1 and 2 for Bank 2 TDC, which you won't be able to do if your engine is only rotating 150°. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping that you can confirm that timing is out on the one side you can check. If you can't check either side then I'm not sure how else you could confirm if timing is to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the forum threads I've just reviewed though, I wouldn't be surprised if your timing is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T20:53:22.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T20:53:22.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T20:52:04.977" Score="7" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Honda R8X that heat seizes when I'm riding it when it goes over 40mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lad I got it off said he had it re-bored and that it was run in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I need to re-bore this again or is there some thing that not been done right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14122" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:36:29.757" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:36:29.757" Title="Honda R8X-S heat seize" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|maintenance|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:07:32.280" Score="10" ViewCount="1654" Body="&lt;p&gt;if sitting in the sun on a hot day, my family's 1995 Mazda protege 323's headlights will come on, even though they are not switched on. This occurs with the car off, and the keys out. The simple way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery, as repeated use of the light switch has no effect. Once the car interior cools down, the battery can be reconnected and the problem is resolved until next time it is sitting in the sun (with windows up). I called a local auto electrics shop who claimed to have never heard of this problem before. &#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14124" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:35:22.987" Title="headlights come on by themselves when car sitting in sun" Tags="|mazda|lights|protege|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24356" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:12:03.120" Score="8" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to an answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24332/what-does-the-letter-at-the-end-of-a-tire-code-signify&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; the speed ratings that can appear on the end of a tire specification (like &quot;195/65R15 91 &lt;strong&gt;V&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;) include &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; all of the letters of the alphalphabet in &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; the correct order...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A1-A8 - Steps from 3 mph to 25 mph&#xA;B - Up to 31 mph&#xA;C - Up to 37 mph&#xA;D - Up to 40 mph&#xA;E - Up to 43 mph&#xA;F - Up to 50 mph&#xA;G - Up to 56 mph&#xA;J - Up to 62 mph&#xA;K - Up to 68 mph&#xA;L - Up to 75 mph&#xA;M - Up to 81 mph&#xA;N - Up to 87 mph&#xA;P - Up to 94 mph&#xA;Q - Up to 100 mph&#xA;R - Up to 106 mph&#xA;S - Up to 112 mph&#xA;T - Up to 118 mph&#xA;U - Up to 124 mph&#xA;H - Up to 130 mph&#xA;V - Up to 149 mph&#xA;W - Up to 168 mph&#xA;Y - Up to 186 mph&#xA;Z - 149 mph and over&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why are not all of the letters in the alphabet included and why is one of the letters, H, in the wrong order?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T13:02:25.793" Title="Tire Speed Rating Naming Convention" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24355" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:19:41.493" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have and sources for this, so please, post 'em if you got 'em, but it's my understanding that &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt; was originally used to designate either &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;ighway rated tire or &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;igh speed.  Even I'm not clear on this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the letters &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;O&lt;/strong&gt; are commonly left out of lettering schemes because of their cousins, the numbers 1 and 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to speculate further, &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; is missing because before standard, metric tire sizes, the X appeared as a separator between the tire height and width like: 29.0&quot;&lt;strong&gt;x&lt;/strong&gt; 9.3&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:34:39.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:34:39.397" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24354" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:20:49.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A bad headlight relay&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have the relay tested or replaced. It could be that the switch for the main circuit is intermittently stuck-closed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A closed-circuit in the light switch or relay getting grounded&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eliminating a bad relay would leave you the possibility that the relay is being activated when it shouldn't through an intermittent closed-circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Could sunlight cause an intermittent closed-circuit?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps heat is a more relevant player here. The thermal expansion of wires could be responsible for the intermittent behavior that is observed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T21:29:08.510" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:29:08.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24354" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:35:22.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your alarm flashes the headlights, then the electronics in the alarm could also be at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:35:22.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:55:13.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a bearing that goes on the end of the gearbox main drive shaft where it does into the rear of the engine crank shaft (I can't remember what it called, someone can remind me).  This only turns when the clutch is pressed and can cause a loud vibrating noise when failing.  These bearings can show symptoms for years without major problems - unless someone can tell a story of the bearing causing failure of the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:55:13.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24353" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:23:21.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll make a large assumption here, but it sounds like whoever rebuilt the engine (or bored it) didn't file fit the rings correctly upon install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the engine was rebored, it would require a new piston and rings to fill the gap. I'm sure there are kits available to do this. If the rings are not file fit correctly, when they get hot enough, they will seize in the bore and lock the engine up tight. Once they cool down enough, they release (usually causing no real damage) and the engine can be run again until the same thing happens over again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to fix this situation is to pull the engine back apart and re-file the piston rings so they are correct. Unfortunately I don't believe there is any test you could do which would tell you if this is the problem without taking the engine apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T22:23:21.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24672" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:29:05.857" Score="8" ViewCount="3473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that all the tires on my VW Passat B5 have &quot;44 PSI&quot; written on them except the spare that has &quot;51 PSI&quot;. This seems incredibly high to me so when I filled them up recently at the petrol station I put them all on about 35-38 PSI for fear of over inflating them (I'm not sure how accurate the public machine is). Most people that I have spoken to seem to say: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;28-30 PSI is fine. It doesn't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would like a more definitive answer than that or at least justification as to why. Also, I have found that there is also a lot of evidence, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24223/cold-temperatures-and-tire-pressure-light&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and elsewhere on the internet to show that you lose some tire pressure with a decrease in temperature (although that might be negligible in the UK most of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only assume that the tire pressure on my tires is a maximum value, hence my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find the correct tire pressure (presumably specific to my tires) for my car tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:24:18.950" Title="How To Pump Up Car Tires (finding the optimal PSI for your tires)" Tags="|tires|pressure|passat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19759" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:33:53.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are larger wires and insulated a bit more, these are some of the very few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke intake.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then you must replace it..  If you have infinite in both directions you will need to replace the rectifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this gives you some troubleshooting tools to remediate your issue.  Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T20:49:17.237" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:49:17.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24361" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:35:57.713" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;On every car sold (that I'm aware of) there is a sticker pasted, usually in the door jam of the driver's side, which states exactly what the car manufacturer suggests your tire pressure should be at. It will give a front/back pressure. This is what you should use and not what the pressure on the side of the tire says. The figure on the tire is the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which the tire should be filled to, not what your car is expecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eygBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eygBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T22:35:57.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24372" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:50:26.043" Score="12" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the hot rodding world, &quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;degreeing the cam&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; is an often used term when installing an aftermarket camshaft. What does the term mean, what does it do for you, why should you do it, and what are the procedures/tools used to perform it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T00:20:32.760" Title="What is meant by degreeing a cam?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24364" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:03:27.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You utilize a &quot;degree wheel&quot; and a piece of metal on the front of the motor. The engine is rotated until the true top dead center marks line up. Usually done when a cam shaft or chain is changed. Fairly common with older vehicles since the indicated marks on the balancer can slip with age resulting in the vehicle getting out of valve train time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14130" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T00:20:32.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T00:20:32.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:05:52.927" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect TPS/APS for any condition resulting in the gas pedal not functioning as it should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14130" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T23:05:52.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24361" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:06:08.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something else to be watch out for, if you filled the tire to 44 PSI while the weather is cold and the tire is cold from not being driven, as soon as it warms up, the tire warms up, and so does the air in it.  For a temperature change of roughly 10 deg C the pressure will increase about 3 PSI. Which if you have filled up the tire to the max, already puts you over. Now fast forward to summer and the air temperature is 40 or 45 deg C higher plus another 10 deg C for driving on the highway in the heat, and your up 55 deg C, which is about 10 PSI difference. If you started at the max, now you're way over. Do I think a 3 PSI over the max pressure is going to cause instant tire popping, no. But I would not want to hit a curb or a deep pothole while the pressure is that high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting the figures for temperature related pressure increase from here: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24223/cold-temperatures-and-tire-pressure-light/24295#24295&quot;&gt;Cold temperatures and tire pressure light&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;That post explains the physics of it really well, with graphs to demonstrate just how big the effect is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, @Paulster2 is correct, use the pressure from your door sticker, not the tire sidewall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T23:06:08.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15877" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:11:48.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to utilize a can of compressed computer air, and a blow dryer to get the dents out. Modern sheetmetal is real thin and wants to go back into position. Fixing the paint would be trickier you may be able to sand it down and color match it using preval sprayers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14130" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T23:11:48.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15877" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:19:19.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to resolve this dent issue as the others have indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Another Possible Method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;glue these plastic ding tabs to the dents.  You can find them by googling &amp;quot;plastic ding tab&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your various dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a dent puller slide hammer.  The tip should screw into the plastic ding pullers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the weight of the slide hammer to where the ding tabs are attached to the dent and give it a good pull.  When the sliding weight hits the stop at the end of the hammer the transferred energy will pull onto the glued tab and pull the dent out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to repeat the operation a few times to get the result you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T14:44:06.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24364" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:52:15.393" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degreeing a cam is process for installing a camshaft and then verifying it's proper alignment with respect to the crank shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a camshaft is being replaces due to damage or malfunction with another OEM camshaft generally the degreeing process is not performed. When the camshaft is installed a set of timing marks is lined up and this lines up the camshaft. The following is just one possible setup, every engine has a different alignment procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXMQ7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXMQ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When installing an aftermarket camshaft for performance reasons the manufacturer specifies the correct alignment for that camshaft. The alignment of the camshaft is specified as crankshaft degrees when the cylinder number one intake valve reaches 0.050 inches of lift. For example 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First install the camshaft and alight the marks available. Next rotate the engine to the top dead center of the number one cylinder. Next install the degree wheel, an indicator of some kind (a bent wire in this case) and something to turn the engine with (a crank handle in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5jjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5jjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next adjust the engine to make sure it is exactly at top dead center. There are lots of ways and tool available to do this. I like a dial indicator. Adjust the degree wheel so that the top dead center of the engine, degree wheel and wire indicator all match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrapO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrapO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now place a dial indicator on the number one intake lifter and rotate the engine backwards until 0.050 inches of lift is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyBkH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyBkH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the lift is achieved the read the cam wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLxig.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLxig.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this matches what the manufacturer specified then your all done. If it does not then the camshaft orientation need adjusted. This is usually done with a special gear or key way. For example, for this small block a special gear is available that takes inserts that offset the relationship between the camshaft key and the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aH1R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aH1R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure is long and tedious with the need for attention to detail. I have generally glossed over the procedure. This was not meant as a comprehensive guide, it was meant more as an introduction to people not familiar with the procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T23:52:15.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T23:59:20.247" Score="10" ViewCount="33229" Body="&lt;p&gt;2007 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 vin 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a remanufactured engine. After installing it, the truck runs, but only bank 1 (1,3,5,7) is firing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has power to the coil packs on bank 2 (2,4,6,8), but no spark. I put in a new cam sensor, crank sensor, and all 4 O2 sensors, but bank 2 will still not fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could be causing this?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I diagnose it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T18:30:57.943" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T21:38:51.310" Title="Remanufactured 5.3 engine not firing on one bank" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|ignition-coil|avalanche|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24376" CreationDate="2016-01-08T00:47:25.210" Score="14" ViewCount="139628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Witnessed a recent debate about what is the appropriate temperature to check tire pressure at.  The debate centered around warm or cold, there wasn't an exact temperature given by any of the parties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the appropriate time to take your tire pressure and fill your tires?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When they are warm or when they are cold?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why should tire pressure be taken at that particular time of warm or cold?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T00:50:36.157" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T11:38:13.727" Title="Checking Tire Pressure when the tire is warm or cold" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24379" CreationDate="2016-01-08T02:24:46.857" Score="14" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description for a fuel tank cap says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can prevent unnecessary service costs by replacing the gas cap on&#xA;  modern vehicles before they go bad and the check engine light appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this advertising baloney? Is there actually something that goes bad in a car if one waits until the check engine light goes off before replacing the fuel tank cap? It only takes driving on one or two full tanks until the system recalibrates. The check engine light will disappear and all will be well again. No?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:12:55.717" Title="Does waiting until the gas cap become faulty cause any damage?" Tags="|cel|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24374" CreationDate="2016-01-08T02:29:19.577" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold. All OEM's door placards specify the tire pressure be set when the tires are &quot;cold&quot;. But what is cold? From a random Honda owners manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Measure the air pressure when tires are cold. This&#xA;means the vehicle has been parked for at least three&#xA;hours, or driven less than 1 mile (1.6 km). If&#xA;necessary, add or release air until the specified&#xA;pressure is reached.&#xA;If checked when hot, tire pressure can be as much as&#xA;4–6 psi (30–40 kPa, 0.3–0.4 kgf/cm2) higher than if&#xA;checked when cold.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This means ambient outside air temp, not inside a warm garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low tire pressures carries far higher risk than high pressure. Since low pressure causes tire heating which leads to rapid deterioration and possible explosion. Low tires also cause poor handling due to higher flexibility in the sidewalls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High pressure carries a shorter list of problems; The smaller and misshaped contact patch increase centerline wear and can reduce road friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OEM's want the pressure on the higher end of the allowed range because of the lower risk and the pressure is going to drop naturally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T22:00:57.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T22:00:57.923" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24375" CreationDate="2016-01-08T04:17:05.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen replacing the fuel cap as any part of the maufacture recommend maintenance. Some vehicles now don't even have one, the seal is made internally or by the fuel hatch door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once on an older vehicle, I had the service engine light come on because of the fuel cap seal.   I couldn't find a replacement cap or O ring to fit, so I just took the seal off and flipped it around. Fixed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14100" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T04:17:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24339" CreationDate="2016-01-08T04:29:29.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pictured tape, or any double sided tape for that matter, will fail quickly. Even the industrial 3M VHB tape isn't worth spit, under the hood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zip tie or find a natural crevice for it if possible and the leads are long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14100" LastEditorUserId="11883" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T13:42:44.107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T13:42:44.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24375" CreationDate="2016-01-08T05:21:17.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to find the exact verbiage on Amazon for a Toyota gas cap.  It implies that you will get a CEL (check engine light) and you could, which could cost you money to get it checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the listing:&#xA;Genuine Toyota (77300-33070) Fuel Tank Cap Assembly&#xA;by Toyota&#xA;    Genuine OEM Toyota Gas Cap New in Original Packaging with Seal.&#xA;    The typical life span on gas caps is 5 - 6 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can prevent unnecessary service costs by replacing the gas cap on&#xA;  modern vehicles before they go bad and the check engine light appears&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I had a CEL come on, due to a tiny vacuum leak at the gas cap and I drove it for quite a while, over a year, with no ill effects.  I didn't know that the solution was a new gas cap and didn't want to pay the expense of having someone locate the leak.  I found out later the gas cap was the usual issue and the light went off when I replaced the gas cap. If the light comes on over something like this it isn't going to hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live in St. Louis,  AutoZone, Oreillys, and Advanced Auto give you a free reading for a CEL, but I know shops were still charging for readings if you asked for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:12:55.717" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:12:55.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24389" CreationDate="2016-01-08T06:57:10.470" Score="7" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a continuation of my question regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/23988/7132&quot;&gt;What to Check When Replacing Struts&lt;/a&gt;, but specific to my 98 Mazda 626 2L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've correctly identified the parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is their effect on performance / safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I really need to change them for either safety / performance / inspection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How difficult is each of these items to change?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I'll point out is that all the parts are probably the original ones from when the car was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first off is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtPFr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtPFr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of dried out and hardish.  I think it is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C3ZEBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strut Mount Bearing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iahl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iahl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C5pNL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C5pNL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006N95RGE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tie rod end&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCsHN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jCsHN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last one is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uhs1P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uhs1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KI4O6G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inner CV boot&lt;/a&gt; ( are inner and outer the same? Is this a universal part? ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fXQ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fXQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T13:12:54.527" Title="Identifying Suspension Parts on my Mazda 626" Tags="|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24383" CreationDate="2016-01-08T07:57:56.590" Score="11" ViewCount="3856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed that what I think are the inner CV boots on my 99 Nissan Almera have started coming apart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imSrE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imSrE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were still in one piece this past August when I took the car for inspection, so this is fairly recent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How urgent is it to deal with this and what are the possible negative consequences of waiting an extended period of time, say six months, before dealing with it.  I ask that because I'm anyways planning on replacing the struts before the next inspection as they've been leaking for a few months and I'm starting to feel the car is more jiggly when going over bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:45:17.600" Title="How Urgent is it to Replace Worn Out CV Boots" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24382" CreationDate="2016-01-08T08:07:46.310" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience of CV boots, you need to replace them immediately if you want to keep the CV joint it covers.  It doesn't take long for dirt to destroy the joint once it gets inside the boot.  If you leave it until the joint starts to deteriorate, then you risk failure of the joint at probably at dangerous time when the car is turning around a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T08:07:46.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24399" CreationDate="2016-01-08T10:02:35.953" Score="11" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's tire pressure time! At least when looking at the recent new questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is another question about air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At driving schools, shops and in the internet you often find this type of images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJdAI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJdAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left tire has the correct pressure, the entire tread touches the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the middle, air pressure is too low. The car stand on the edges of the tire and if driving too long, the tread will wear on that edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The right tire has too much pressure and only the middle of the tread touches the ground. Again, driving too long will cause wear in the middle of the tread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I agree with the first two points, I wonder a little about the last. I can imagine this for bias tires, but today, we have radial tires on all cars and most other vehicles. These usually have a circumferential steel belt beneath the tread which does not allow much radial expansion. I think a radial tire with too much pressure still looks more like the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So: Is it still the case that over-filled tires show increased wear in the middle, or is more a popular belief from history, where we had more bias tires?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:09:50.730" Title="Radial tires: Do they bulge at too high pressure?" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24382" CreationDate="2016-01-08T11:56:25.037" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you should take care that lubricating grease will go out which will cause CV damage by time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T11:56:25.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T12:12:45.920" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day. I've just done an engine overhaul of a Fiat Palio 16. When I try to start it the is swing but not start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14144" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T13:52:35.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T13:52:35.857" Title="hi I've just done engine overhaul car is not starting" Tags="|engine|starting|fiat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-09T15:03:40.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T12:12:54.787" Score="1" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;lately I found my car consuming more fuel than usual,it was doing 8 liters per 100km,then it raised to 12 liters per 100km,I asked its agency to check for the problem,they found nothing unusual,after a while it decreased as normal for few days then back for hi consumption I don't know what is going on?any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14143" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T07:18:17.180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T07:18:17.180" Title="fuel consumption in CR-V 2007" Tags="|honda|fuel-consumption|crv|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24381" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:12:54.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets start down your list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that your are referring to the rubber thing. This is a strut mount, not the strut mount bearing. The bearing is located between the spring and strut mount. Strut mounts just prevent noise and have no direct way affect safety. I don't believe that these would be picked on during a safety inspection. Of the list these are by far the hardest to replace. The strut plates bolt to the strut and capture the spring and bearing palate between them. After the strut, spring and plate assembly is removed the spring needs compressed before unbolting the plate from the strut. Do not unbolt it without capturing the spring or bad things will happen. If you choose to replace the plates then replace the struts and bearings as well, they are already removed by this point. Make sure to get an alignment after replacing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifyvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifyvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tierod connect the steering to the suspicion knuckle. If this part breaks you lose steering. The tierod is a ball and socket joint. A normal mode of failure is the socket wearing out. This will make the joint loose. When the socket is sufficiently worn out the tierod can fall off. This will definitely get flagged on a safety inspection. On your list this is the easiest thing to replace. Adjust it as close to the old one as you can. Get an alignment afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that is the inner CV boot. If the boot is torn then there is probably dirt that has made it's way into the joint. The joint will wear and start making noise. Eventually the joint will break but the radio would have to be quite loud before it does. It's far more  reliable and easier to replace the whole axle not just the boot. There is a 50/50 chance if the inspector will complain. This is of medium difficulty to replace. Fist remove the nut holding the axle into the knuckle. Next slide the axle out of the knuckle, this will involve either disconnecting the strut or separating the lower ball joint. Next the axle needs to be pull out of the transmission. The axle is held in with a spring clip inside the transmission and need gently pried out. Turn the axle 15 to 30 degrees every time a prying attempt fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T13:12:54.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24394" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:16:08.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/30017271/obdii-determine-gear-given-speed-and-rpm&quot;&gt;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/30017271/obdii-determine-gear-given-speed-and-rpm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to the above link, one method to find the current gear ratio is to calculate Speed/rpm (The rpm is the engine rpm). But say the clutch slips or transmission slips, how can I correctly determine which gear I am driving, and detect a clutch slip? Because if the clutch slips, the velocity is less that I get and hence speed/rpm decreases, thus implying I am driving at a lower gear, which is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:41:56.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:16:52.567" Title="Gear ratio from speed and rpm" Tags="|clutch|obd-ii|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24382" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:20:35.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMMEDIATELY, If it is not too late already, I have seen CVs ruined with days not weeks, by the smallest amount of sand, mud, dirt whatever getting into the joint.&#xA;These are way too expensive to take the chance.&#xA;I am not familiar with your model, but trying to save on labour cost doesn't usually equate to the cost of new cvs, (depending on costs in your situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14145" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T18:45:17.600" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:45:17.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:43:36.360" Score="7" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly is an English Wheel? How can I use one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:47:52.687" Title="What is an English Wheel and how do I use one?" Tags="|fabrication|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24395" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:48:39.990" Score="12" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have to be on bare metal? What about adding the product to primer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:29:01.857" Title="How do I apply Fibreglass and Bondo?" Tags="|bondo|fibreglass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24390" CreationDate="2016-01-08T13:54:18.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is not easy and is an exercise in data analysis. First you need to know the gear ratios of the car and the tire size. The tire size will allow you to calculate the RPM of the output shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the fun data analysis comes in. The gear ratio will converge as the clutch engages. For example if your sitting at a stop the gear ratio is infinite because speed is zero. As the clutch engages the dynamic ratio will fall but as the clutch fully engages the ratio will converge to a known value. That value will hold until the gear is changed again. The procedure repeats. The ratio will change rapidly and all over the place until the clutch reengages and then the ratio will converge to another known ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to note is that the ratios need to be known. This allows knowing when a gear is engaged.  If the clutch is slipping then there is no way to tell what gear your in. At most you can tell that the clutch is slipping. What you'll see is that the gear ratio will never converge to one of the known ratios. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are developing a product that helps people to drive a stick shift i would say you are not responsible when someone is driving a broken car. What i would suggest is some indicator that the clutch is slipping and to check your driving method or the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T13:54:18.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:24:28.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, bare metal is best, with a rough finish for better adhesion (and ALL rust removed). Paint both sides afterwards with an automotive quality primer, color paint, and clear top coat if it had one before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a hole or gap is to be filled, it is best to give the filler something to &quot;grab onto&quot;, such as wire screen, screw heads, etc. The idea is to minimize in any direction (including depth) the distance unsupported filler has to span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys to a good job are: adhesion, support, and matching the original contours. For that last item, keep putting on thin layers and repeatedly sanding off high spots and filling in low spots, until the surface is perfectly smooth and matches the original shape. Remember, the paint job will not look glassy smooth unless the surface you are painting is glassy smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T14:53:55.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T14:53:55.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9436" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:34:41.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacing Ball Joint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6fRG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6fRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mitsubishi Rear Control Arm with Ball Joint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DANGER&lt;/strong&gt;: Your spring may be unsupported once the ball joint is unbolted.&#xA;Determine if you need to constrain or remove the spring first, using a spring compressor. Support the body on that side with a jack stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the cotter or retention pin or and remove the large castle&#xA;    nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Break free the shaft. Sometimes a few taps with a hammer will do.&#xA;    Tools called a pickle fork or ball joint separator will also work. I&#xA;    prefer the separator that looks like this, an OTC 6297.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtrgb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtrgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OTC 6297&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T14:38:54.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T14:38:54.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24392" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:38:45.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An English wheel is a tool for bending flat metal sheets into curved surfaces. (Thanks to @vini-i for a much better, succinct summary!)  As for what &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; can do with one, it's probably about the same as what &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; can do with one which is &quot;not much&quot; at the moment.  :)  But here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6GTMAMUee4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video of an expert&lt;/a&gt;. Note that this guy makes it look easy, but it's actually embarrassingly easy to really screw up a panel on an English wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture should be worth about 1000 words.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/saylL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/saylL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T15:47:52.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:47:52.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15877" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:42:09.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sheet metal on your door isn't terribly strong (which is why is is fairly easy to dent). Here's how I would approach the problem if I were looking for a &quot;good enough&quot; solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the door's inner panel. This will involve undoing a variety of car-specific screws (e.g., in the door handle), disconnecting some electrical hardware for the power windows, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the plastic vapor barrier (looks like a thick plastic bag) and any easily moved sound proofing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a something strong but unlikely to pierce the metal, try pressing the debts out from the outside. I would suggest something like a soup spoon. Press with the center of the back of the bowl so you can push out a little bit at a time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After each little press, check your work on the outside. Don't get aggressive and stop before you think it's perfect (it's not going to be). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 3 and 4 about ten million times. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, the dents will be better but the marks will remain. Now it's time for several coats of cleaner wax. This has a little bit of polish that will remove some of the extra paint and will soften the scratch edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 6 until &quot;good enough&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble the door and watch for rust (you may have gone through the paint). In that case, return with touch up paint later. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result will be an imperfect door. However, you'll learn a lot about how your car is put together (at least in that one spot) and you won't have spent much other than the cost of a bottle of wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T17:53:33.770" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:53:33.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24384" CreationDate="2016-01-08T14:51:27.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is simple: depends. It depends on the manufacturer's choices in how they reinforce the sidewall and how that is tied in to the belts under the tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One should not expect an off-road tire (made for off-road use at low pressure and on-road use at nominal pressure), a wide and low ultra-high-performance tire, and a tall, high profile standard passenger tire to exhibit exactly the same properties when under or over inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T17:09:50.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:09:50.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22802" CreationDate="2016-01-08T15:58:23.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers have covered most things, but here are two points that haven't yet been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Warranty&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually a function of the supplier rather than the manufacturer, but some places offer a lifetime guarantee.  Others offer none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Physical fit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard could it possibly be to make accurate threads?  Apparently pretty hard for some manufacturers who are not quite up to 21st century manufacturing techniques and quality control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:58:23.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25056" CreationDate="2016-01-08T16:13:22.223" Score="13" ViewCount="27421" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 1.4 petrol polo struggles to start when warm and sometimes will not start, until the engine has cooled down a bit, when the engine is on the hot side of warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Embarrassingly, I have lived with this issue for quite a number of years because 75% of the time the places I am going will mean I am away from my car for sufficient time for the engine to cool down. Another 15% of the time, I am driving a short enough distance that the engine will not be too warm for this to be a major problem (the car might start after 1, 2 or 3 times). The rest of time I leave it running if I am in and out of some place in a few minutes. I know, as I said, embarrassing. I have cut out twice in traffic after long driving but luckily the car started after 6 and 3 tries respectively. In these cases where it struggles to start, the starting sound is not the same as when the engine is cold and doesn't inspire confidence. I know nothing about cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where to start with diagnosing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Forgot to mention, car always starts when engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14119" LastEditorUserId="14119" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T17:26:56.200" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T09:18:08.660" Title="2000 VW Polo struggles to/won't start when engine warm" Tags="|engine|starting|vw|polo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24319" CreationDate="2016-01-08T16:26:01.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, it was a vacuum line for me. I found the leak, fixed it and the light no longer blinks. So check out your vacuum line for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T16:26:01.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24390" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:16:52.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use the fact that typically if your vehicle speed is/was accelerating, and the RPM drops sharply without the vehicle speed dropping, then the driver shifted up.  If the RPM increases quickly and the vehicle is not accelerating, then the driver down shifted.  This would not account for dropping it in neutral.  You might be able to check if the engine speed is at idle, IACV, engine load for neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do a range selection for each gear.  For each gear the So lets say we have a 3 speed with ratios 2.52, 1.52, 1.00 and a rear of 4.10.  These come up to overall drive ratios of 10.33, 6.23, and 4.10.  Give a tolerance just to be safe, I am using 1%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerating (so ratio will be decreasing with up shift):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x &amp;gt; 10.23 = first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.19 &amp;gt; x &amp;lt; 10.23 = second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x &amp;lt; 6.19 = third&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decelerating (ratio will be increasing with downshift):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x &amp;gt; 6.27= first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.14 &amp;gt; x &amp;lt; 6.27= second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x &amp;lt; 4.14 = third&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your device might be able to 'learn' the ratios. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:16:52.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24408" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:24:34.990" Score="6" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12608/how-best-to-repair-numerous-small-chips-and-scratches-that-are-starting-to-rust?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; but my focus is a little different.  I have a 1982 Porsche 911 that has collected quite a number of chips and scratches on the front, mostly from rocks bouncing off the road and onto the hood.  Some of the chips are deep and have started to rust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on doing a thorough job on it in a few months when it gets warmer, including all of the sanding, preparation, paint and clearcoat with a paint gun at that time.  However, I'm thinking that maybe I should do something temporary just to halt the rust until I can take the time to do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: should I do a quick rattle-can job now just to halt the rust, or leave it alone until I can take the time to do it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't drive the car much these days, and it is always under a car cover but not in a garage. I should also mention that the car is in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humid_subtropical_climate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;humid subtropical climate&lt;/a&gt; so that's a factor that may be relevant here.  Also about six months ago, I started to work on it, but only got as far doing a little light sanding and using naval jelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOQUq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOQUq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:27:28.553" Title="Quick paint job now, or wait until I can do it right?" Tags="|paint|body-work|porsche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:29:01.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't have to be on bare metal; it's a good idea but as @kmarsh says &quot;metal is best&quot;. Remember that Bondo dries to a hard plastic, if you apply it on something that is flexible then it will crack and eventually fall off (not to mention looking horrible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware: Never use Bondo to fill a hole unless it is for off road/temporary use. A screen may hold the Bondo, but since it dries hard it's a bad idea. Use Fibreglass to fill non-structural holes (assuming automotive use, of course), and weld/rivet in metal in other cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else @kmarsh says is also key to a nice looking AND long lasting job. In general Bondo is for filling small imperfections and should never be used in a &quot;power trowel&quot; (a.k.a. Lumber with a big scoop of Bondo :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14146" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:29:01.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2016-01-08T17:39:03.840" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pressure test is fine and ur head gasket is not leaking try and bypass the heater radiator by joining the pipes then bleed the system and get out all the air bubbles and add antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:39:03.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24405" CreationDate="2016-01-08T18:03:42.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get it covered with epoxy primer. If you have many pits and cavities, it would be best to go over the areas with a wire brush and then shoot your primer. I recommend a wire brush for the pitted areas vs a typical sanding block as it will not penetrate areas with depth. If moisture is trapped in there, expect it to corrode through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is best to prevent rust immediately. It will spread like a cancer and when you have the time to start this job it will be much more involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how deep the damage is, but you can use Tig or Mig welding techniques to fill them and then sand accordingly to the contour of the panel(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T18:03:42.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T18:56:41.133" Score="5" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just seems like plug wire, plug, or something missing shakes whole truck. It's acting like it's starving for gas. New plugs, plug wires, MAF sensor, idle control sensor, cleaned and still can't figure out why it's missing or losing power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about a Ford truck. Crank it, sounds like a little miss. Rev it up, starts missing terrible. Start to drive, it's boggy slow till 20-30, then starts to run good, then bogs down actng like it's gonna cut off, popping and sputtering. Can't figure anything out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T20:31:47.740" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:31:47.740" Title="Ford F-150 4x2 4.9l straight 6 misses after lots of work" Tags="|engine|ford|rough-idle|f-150|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-09T08:36:08.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24423" CreationDate="2016-01-08T19:45:15.020" Score="6" ViewCount="7936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 VW Passat with a manual transmission. I have heard that &quot;blipping&quot; the throttle can be a good thing to do in order to achieve smoother downshifts whilst driving. What does this mean? How do you do it? What are the advantages and disadvantages to doing it on a regular basis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:45:44.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T16:50:15.703" Title="Blipping the Throttle" Tags="|driving|passat|wear|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-08T23:37:33.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24415" CreationDate="2016-01-08T19:47:34.693" Score="6" ViewCount="3927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asked recently where I keep the &quot;locking wheel nut&quot; on my car. What is this? What does it do? How can I find it on my car? Do I even have/need one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:46:01.577" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:56:45.730" Title="2004 VW Passat B5 What and Where is the Locking Wheel Nut?" Tags="|car|passat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24411" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:01:34.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Blipping&quot; the throttle just means giving it a very short (half a second) stab raising the RPM for a short time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It creates smoother down shifts because it raises the RPM to where it's going to be after the shift so the synchros have less work to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:01:34.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24421" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:03:40.533" Score="5" ViewCount="2489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 VW Passat B5 and having started to learn a bit more about engine theory, I was wondering how many belts I have and what names each of the belts have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have a two part question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many belts do I have in my car (and does this apply to every car)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many names do each of these belts have respectively?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partsbase.org/vw/passat-4motion-santana-pa-eu-2004/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website may help for details specifically regarding the VW Passat engine.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:47:19.930" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:47:19.930" Title="Cam Belt vs Belt Drive vs Serpentine Belt vs Fan Belt vs V Belt vs Timing Belt" Tags="|engine|car|timing-belt|belt|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24412" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:10:54.510" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on who asked you, and why, I would assume they were talking about the special socket needed to removed locking lug nuts from the car.  On cars that have them, one of the 4 or 5 lug nuts/bolts will have a smooth outside and a special pattern on the inside that only a certain key will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khOyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khOyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lock can typically be found near where your spare tire or tool kit is kept.  Since that's where the manufacturer puts the key, some people might move it to another location to avoid easy theft by someone looking in the &quot;default&quot; place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Jetta has a syrofoam insert in the spare tire with cut-outs to hold the wheel lock key, the plastic lug nut cover pulling hook, and the tow hook for the front of the car.  I bet you have a similar setup under the cover in your trunk (boot?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T19:56:45.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:56:45.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24412" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:12:04.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a car normal lug nuts or lug bolts in your case have some type of hex head. This can be easily removed with a lug wrench or a ratchet and socket. This also make wheels easy to steal. To counteract the theft there exist special lug bolts that have a non standard pattern. This pattern requires a key to covert the special pattern to a standard hex. This is roughly what your lug a key can look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAHZY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAHZY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key can be kept in the glove box but in reality the key could be anywhere, even not in the car. VW commonly has a zip tie device that affixes the key to the lug wrench in the trunk area near the jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check if you need one there should be a tool somewhere near the lug wrench that looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkWc2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkWc2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use it to gently pry off all the caps on one wheel. If all the lug bots are hex then you don't need a key, if one of the bots does not look like the rest then you need a key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:12:04.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24411" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:21:37.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blipping is just what @cdunn stated in raising the RPM for a short period of time ... very short. The main purpose of blipping the throttle is usually to reduce the idle speed of an engine. Sometimes an idle will be slightly higher than it would be (ie: idle at 900rpm instead of a customary 650rpm). By blipping the throttle you can sometimes get the engine to drop the idle down to where it's supposed to be. Really, you should only be doing it when you need to do it. The main disadvantage is you are wasting gas if you don't need to bring the idle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, there was never a correlation between blipping the throttle and shifting. There was however a procedure called double clutching, which involved shifting out of a gear into neutral, releasing the clutch pedal to bring down the front half of the transmission down to (or up to, depending on and upshift or downshift) engine speed, quickly pressing the clutch pedal again, shifting into the higher gear, then releasing the clutch pedal once more to gain further speed. This was how you shifted vehicles before modern synchronizes came about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blipping the throttle during shifting will have no effect on the transmission due to the fact when the clutch pedal is down the transmission is completely disengaged (power wise) from the transmission. There's no way it could affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:21:37.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24353" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:58:05.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on where the engine is seizing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your scooter/motorcycle is a two stroke, if you are seizing due to a lack of oil in the gas at the crankshaft you are in big trouble.  More than likely this is not the case.  It is known to happen on rare occasions though.  The main bearings of the crank basically begin to disintegrate due to oil starvation.  There are typically ball bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seizing at the piston and rings there is a chance the engine will continue to run for you but quite a bit of life get's taken off the piston, rings and cylinder bore when this occurs.  This has a higher likelihood of happening as most seizures are this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshoot&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You can test the compression of your engine with a compression tester.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;image of compression test kit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSj29.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSj29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to lookup or ask a shop the compression in PSI that your engine requires.  I would guess anywhere from 140psi to 170psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your engine is below the number in psi the manufacturer recomends then you will need to follow the advice from @Paulster2 in the other post and redo the top end of your motorcycle by procuring an overbore piston and rings and getting the cylinder rebored to correct size for the new piston and rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure you measure the current piston to ensure you get the next size up.  Also validate you do not have gouges in your current bore that would require the NEXT size up piston and rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;why is this happening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically seizing is from heat.  If you have a liquid cooled vehicle then you need to make sure you have your coolant levels correct and all the air purged out of the cooling system.  Ensure you are putting two stroke oil in your oil tank.  Validate that the oil injection is actually working.  Two strokes need oil mixed in with the gas to lubricate the crank bearings.  The air fuel and oil go through the crankcase as a part of the combustion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T20:58:05.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T20:58:56.440" Score="10" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend owns a '98 VW Passat 2.0 Turbo. He changed the batteries in the key FOB and now the vehicle is locked by the security system. Using the key will not unlock any of the doors or trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What must be done to unlock the vehicle and reset, (if needed), the security system issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T02:21:54.250" Title="'98 Passat Locked when FOB batteries changed, how do you unlock it?" Tags="|vw|key|passat|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T21:27:01.137" Score="6" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just had the cam belt and water pump changed at my local VW dealership on my 2004 VW Passat B5 and on the technical report they were kind enough to point out everything else they wanted to charge me money for. So this question is regarding the most &quot;urgent&quot; and &quot;expensive&quot; one in this report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to a mechanic and he said a lot of technical things that I didn't understand which I know makes this problem much harder to solve. Sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here is what I know:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a bearing that is wearing out near the front of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is near a big fan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That bearing is important&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that bearing jams it may mean that belts (I don't have a cam chain) dependent on that could come off causing severe damage to the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would cost £918 ($1500 maybe?) to get it fixed at the dealership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7-8 hours labour (supposedly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They would need to take the entire front end off the car to do the repair (hence the price)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearing is near the alternator or power steering pump or both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for more information regarding this bearing and any parts surrounding it. Hopefully to determine whether the given quote is reasonable or even if it is something I could have a go at myself given adequate research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bearing is this? Do you have any more detailed information (and a proper name) for this bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:47:45.313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:47:45.313" Title="Can you identify this part?" Tags="|engine|vw|engine-theory|passat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-15T14:39:08.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24414" CreationDate="2016-01-08T21:31:59.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comment says, looking at the web site you posted there seems to be a couple of flavors of engine for your car. So unless we know the displacement (it would say 2.3L V6 for example) we can't say exactly for your car. There are 5 or 6 flavors listed for your car, from a 1.8L 4 cyl, to a 4.0L V8 ( would love to see how this is stuffed into a Passat lol). All of which will have different belt setups. Here's a general overview of the types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt = timing chain = (generally) toothed belt&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These are all connecting mechanisms to keep the pistons and the valves in time with each other. They all connect the crank pulley with the cam shaft pulley (or pulleys) so that the valves are always in time with the position of the pistons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toothed belt refers to any belt that has teeth on the under side, but the manuals for your car seem to refer to the timing belt as &quot;the toothed belt&quot;. A timing belt is always toothed because a &quot;V&quot; belt can slip, and that would be catastrophic for your engine (if it's an interference engine, one where the valves will collide with the pistons if they open at the wrong time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The timing belt and timing chain do the same job, but one is literally a chain. I did not mean to imply that it's a belt. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serpentine belt = accessories belt&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A belt that is generally on the font of the engine that runs your alternator, sometimes the water pump, power steering pump, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm forgetting one (or two) but they are not coming to me right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, every car has it's own arrangement for these belts. Even the same type of car, the various engine types that are available can all have different belt setups. But this is at least a start on what the different belts are called and what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:31:59.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24148" CreationDate="2016-01-08T21:33:32.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the car to the dealership for a full cam belt, belt tensioner, idler pulley and water pump replacement and the noise hasn't happened since! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess one of the parts that was changed during the maintenance must have been worn or damaged or the belt was rubbing on something that it should not have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T11:44:52.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T11:44:52.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24411" CreationDate="2016-01-08T22:23:41.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a manual tranmission car, the clutch is 'meshed' only when both sides of the clutch - the engine side and the wheel side - are running at the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Downshifting Example&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll make up some numbers for an example: Say you're at 3rd gear, going 45 miles an hour and the engine is at 2.5k RPM. If you downshift while still going 45 miles an hour, the equivalent engine speed is now probably near 3-4k RPM for second gear at 45 MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to just naively disengage the clutch, switch to 2nd gear, and re-engage the clutch, all while keeping your foot off the throttle, then you've got a few things going on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine speed is going to drop while you're making the switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new engine speed is going to be a lot higher than what it was before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch is going to have to do a lot of work to bring the engine speed up to where it needs to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the chain of events goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're in 3rd, traveling 45 MPH and the engine speed is 2.5k RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You disengage the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start switching the gear to second gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine speed drops to 1.5k RPM in the time it took you to change gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car is still traveling at 45 MPH&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd gear at 45 MPH wants the engine to be 4k RPM, but the engine is currently going 1.5k RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start to engage the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch &quot;grinds&quot; a bunch while it brings the engine up to speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch stops grinding when its transferred enough energy to the engine to bring the engine up to 4k RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You continue on your merry way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is that when downshifting, your engine speed has to go up (a lot) in order to match the change in gear ratio, and the clutch has to be the guy to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Blipping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so with that out of the way, what is &quot;blipping&quot;? Blipping is known by a few other names - &quot;burping&quot; the throttle, rev-matching, etc, but it's all the same idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to manually raise the engine speed when downshifting so that the clutch has to do less work - if I disengage the clutch and give the engine some gas to manually bring it up to 4k RPM, then when I re-engage the clutch after switching to 2nd gear, then the clutch has to do very little work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, if the engine speed is already at 4k when I re-engage the clutch, then the clutch won't experience as much wear and tear, the shift can complete much sooner (important if you need to shift fast for some reason), and the ride is more comfortable because there's less of a jerk when the clutch re-engages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, rev-matching is a good thing for your car, but it does take some time to master. You have to develop an innate sense for what engine speed you need when you're in X gear and the car is traveling at Y speed; and then actually being able to do it in one quick procedure takes practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Competitive Contexts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rally&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In competitive contexts, rev-matching is done, but sometimes for other reasons. Keep in mind that when downshifting, the car might jerk a little as the engine is brought up to speed - if you're a rally driver and you're trying to be very careful about when you make demands of your traction, you might try to rev-match in order to not accidentally cause your traction to break loose, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Power-shifting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another related technique is power-shifting - applying full throttle while upshifting, ie, never releasing the throttle while trying to accelerate hard and switch gears. This is very hard on the clutch, gearbox, vehicle dynamics, but it can be helpful for your track times - during that split second while you're switching gears the engine is still making power - that power is being stored in the rising rotational energy of the engine. Then when the clutch is re-engaged, that stored energy is transferred to the vehicle, giving you a small boost. The end result is that you can accelerate just a little faster than if you let off the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powershifting can have second-order effects too, for instance if the engine uses turbo chargers. Turbo chargers work by using the force of the exhaust gas to spin an impeller that then is used to force air into the engine. Turbo chargers are notorious for 'turbo lag' - they don't help a lot when the engine speed - and thus the volume of exhaust gas coming out - isn't that high. Turbos help make more power at higher engine speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, if you are doing things like power shifting, then that helps keep the turbo 'spooled up' - itself turning at a high speed - so that it can be ready to help make more power for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4296" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T16:50:15.703" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T16:50:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24427" CreationDate="2016-01-08T22:30:58.873" Score="8" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happens once or twice a month, I could be doing 60 mph, and its almost redlining at 5000 rpm!. Once the vehicle gets to normal operating temperature, and I turn it off for a few minutes and turn it back on, I cannot go over 20 mph without the vehicle wanting to redline. I have to let the car cool down over night so that I can drive it no more that 60 mph and not for long distances (no more than 9 or 10 miles) It will do this for 10 days then suddenly it it just stops and runs the way it is supposed to.  Can not figure it out. Any help will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14149" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T01:05:05.347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:05:05.347" Title="I own a 1989 Mercedes 560sec that has rpm surges for no real reason" Tags="|transmission|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24426" CreationDate="2016-01-08T22:32:24.527" Score="5" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trucks use yellow and red coded ISO 1728 &quot;palm couplings&quot; for connecting the air supply and braking compressed air lines from the towing vehicle to a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build an adapter from the compressed air supply palm coupling (red lid) to a European standard compressed air coupling (7.2 mm nominal inner diameter). This is to power a tire filler or compressed air tools with the truck when I need this on the go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about which parts will fit together (thread size etc.). Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13149" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T22:32:24.527" Title="How to build a palm coupling to compressed air coupling adapter?" Tags="|brakes|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24425" CreationDate="2016-01-08T22:32:24.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=44103&quot;&gt;ISO 1728 document&lt;/a&gt; is not public, but I think that it does not specify threads in the palm couplings. It will be different between regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Europe, the palm couplings use either a M16×1.5 or M22×1.5 female thread (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phillipsind.com/product/628.html&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dagefoerde-gmbh.de/shop/?page=gruppe&amp;amp;path=/00000235/00000296&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressed air couplings with a European standard industrial profile of the plugs and a M16×1.5 male thread are available. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parker RECTUS Series 26KA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rectus.de/products/qcde_products/low_pressure/brasssteel/single_shut_off/26ka/&quot;&gt;part no. 26KAAD16MPX&lt;/a&gt; for standard brass material (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mercateo.com/p/1818H-26KAAD16MPX%282d%29PK/Parker_26KAAD16MPX.html&quot;&gt;prices&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parker RECTUS Series 26KA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rectus.de/products/qcde_products/low_pressure/brasssteel/single_shut_off/26ka/&quot;&gt;part no. 26KAAD16MPN&lt;/a&gt; for nickel-plated brass material (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mercateo.com/p/1818H-26KAAD16MPN%282d%29PK/Parker_26KAAD16MPN.html&quot;&gt;prices&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ewo 308 series &lt;a href=&quot;http://ewo-stuttgart.com/ewo761/index.html#127/z&quot;&gt;part no. 308.816&lt;/a&gt; for brass material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply screw them together after winding a good amount of teflon sealing tape around the male thread. Some sellers (e.g. on eBay Germany) also sell these adapters pre-built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13149" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T22:32:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24424" CreationDate="2016-01-08T23:16:37.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a vacuum pipe that goes from the engine inlet manifold to the transmission.  I have seen symptoms a little like this caused by damage to this pipe on a similar aged car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T23:16:37.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-08T23:43:13.657" Score="4" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2004 Toyota Corolla with about 110,000 miles. When I ride the car with the heat on, every now and then it smells like rotten eggs. I looked online and people say I may have a bad catalytic converter but I'm not entirely sure I do since the problem isn't very frequent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14151" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T01:03:03.320" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:45:29.153" Title="Bad Cat? Bad smell in Car when heating on" Tags="|toyota|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-11T15:37:30.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21819" CreationDate="2016-01-09T01:28:15.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using the OP's comment to answer the question as there is no way anyone on here could have figured this out without being able to see the issue or having done it themselves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just an update for anyone that might ever come across this and say that is my exact problem my shock extender for my level kit were installed backwards which was coming in contact with the back of my brake caliber during a hard turn flipped them around problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:28:15.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18051" CreationDate="2016-01-09T01:45:31.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to test to see if your engine is timed correctly is to rotate the crank shaft through 720° of rotation then check your timing marks again. Since you (supposedly) have a non-interference motor, you will have no worries. If the marks line up again, then you're golden. You'll want to do this with a crank snout socket or put the harmonic balancer bolt back on to turn it. You don't want to use the starter. Make sure the spark plugs are out to ease the turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did have an interference motor, you can still do the same thing. The only difference is, if you feel &lt;em&gt;any resistance at all&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;STOP TURNING THE CRANK&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. That's why it's important to leave the spark plugs out, other wise you'd be feeling the compression resistance and not realize it if it were interference resistance. If you did feel resistance, you'd want to turn the crank backwards to the point where you started and then double check your timing marks. More than likely, though, you'd find they would match up to where they were supposed to be at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T01:45:31.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T02:19:34.463" Score="5" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wagon with excessive fuel consumption.  It's using 30 litres of petrol per 100 ks. I have seen many mechanics who can't find the problem. I know it has good intake and no exhaust problems.  No fuel leaks. It's not the way we drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have ideas mechanically related that would explain the excessive fuel consumption with this vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T03:05:41.933" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T04:19:49.930" Title="Why does my 2005 Mitsubishi Pajero use excessive amounts of fuel?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|mitsubishi|pajero|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T02:49:14.860" Score="8" ViewCount="2357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002TDUW4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Herculine&lt;/a&gt; some body parts on a Jeep, and I'm wondering if you normally when doing body work cover up threaded bolt holes or paint over them? Is it difficult to put in a bolt if there is paint in the hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Herculine is rubber brush/roll on paint. Is it any different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="999" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T08:06:09.283" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T17:22:16.903" Title="When doing body paint, do you cover up bolt holes?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24430" CreationDate="2016-01-09T05:03:25.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has Service bulletin EG028-04 been performed?  This TSB reprograms the ECU so the fuel mixture is set closer to Stoichiometric and slightly to the lean side. The TSB suggests a new catalyst, We have done lots of these without replacing the catalyst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotten egg smell from the exhaust is caused by the catalyst releasing hydrogen sulfide gas. This happens when the catalyst is at operating temp and is fed a rich mixture. As is the case when the engine is loaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalysts absorb sulfur when fuel mixture is lean and release it when the mixture is rich. It is not a sign of catalyst failure but one of normal operation. Low sulfur fuel was mandated partly to reduce the amount of hydrogen sulfide in the atmosphere since is a major cause of acid rain. Excess Sulfur content is one of the many things that constitute an &quot;off spec&quot; batch of fuel that would end up at a low price fuel retailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of no reason this would only happen when the heater is on. But this does mean the exhaust system should be carefully checked for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T05:03:25.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24430" CreationDate="2016-01-09T06:45:29.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the smell is from the internal heating system and not from the exhaust system then this is likely to be due to organism (mould, bacteria, ...) growth in the air distribution ducts and heater. This is a well known problem. Proprietary products are available that are intended to cure this problem and adds are some standard household products will work in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally try a spray based on &quot;Benzalkonium Chloride&quot; (or one of the many name-variants. (Quaternary Ammonium Salts, Lauryl Dimethyl Benzyl, .... .... ....). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is used in the majority of home disinfectants, and in many cleaners, moss &amp;amp; mould removers, carpet shampoos  and more, at typically around 0.1% concentration. Using it in the same manner as mentioned below has a good chance of working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carsdirect.com/car-maintenance/weird-car-air-conditioner-smell-what-it-means-and-how-to-fix-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HERE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a typical discussion with commercial products being suggested. They note&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do an anti bacterial treatment for your A/C by yourself. There are special antibacterial cleaners that you have to spray on the air filter once a month. You can also try cleaning your air conditioner at least once in a month to ensure that it produces clean and filtered air. Try products like Klima-Cleaner's. This product removes odors from the car and removes water condensation on the air conditioner system too. This can cost about $15 per bottle and can last you a long time. Other products you can try include GardX One Shot Deodoriser, and Kleen Air-Air Conditioning Cleaner &amp;amp; Purifier. Both of which cost about $45-$100.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;strong&gt;HERE&lt;/strong&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYlp9dm7AI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYlp9dm7AI&lt;/a&gt;) is a Youtube advert for a &quot;3 minute&quot; fix. Efficacy and cost unknown to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/116/why-does-my-a-c-blow-foul-smelling-air-when-it-first-turns-on&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  - SE 2011 on the same subject .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://removeandreplace.com/2013/05/25/how-to-get-the-bad-smell-out-of-car-ac-vent-system-diy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Custom stuff&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9336" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:45:29.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24435" CreationDate="2016-01-09T10:54:23.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the bolt hole tolerances you start out with, the paint may prevent the bolt from screwing into the bolt hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that difficult to avoid the problem - plug in a rag, tissue paper or something that acts as a barrier to the paint. Once the paint is dry, pull it out to leave thread that is unscathed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T10:54:23.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="729" CreationDate="2016-01-09T12:42:42.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would be wise to get your vehicle on a hoist and clean up the rusted areas with a wire brush/grinder of various sizes. You can then apply primer or go straight to rubberized undercoat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you would be ok to to get your vehicle undercoated from a shop. The key to this is cleanliness. Make sure your vehicles undercarriage is properly rinsed before the undercoat is sprayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T12:42:42.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24442" CreationDate="2016-01-09T13:00:29.527" Score="11" ViewCount="29196" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a 6 pack in the hotrodding world? Does it improve performance of my engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T00:49:54.027" Title="What is a 6 Pack and will it add performance to my engine?" Tags="|engine|performance|hotrod|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T13:04:17.597" Score="5" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can you increase horsepower on an engine through general modifications without modifying the internals of the engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there benefits or tradeoffs from doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of things could I modify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airfilter?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake tract?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust system?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Various ECU chips or an ECU replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rip out all the seats, spare tire and interior and throw them in a dumpster to lighten the car?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T20:22:33.037" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T10:19:25.017" Title="How to increase horsepower?" Tags="|engine|performance|hp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-09T23:07:29.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2016-01-09T13:09:41.040" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A six pack &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; refers to the Chrysler (Mopar) carburetor setup which is three-two barrel carbs on an intake. You'll most often hear of it as a &lt;em&gt;440 Six Pack&lt;/em&gt;, the 440 referring to the Big Block Mopar engine displacing 440 cubic inches. Here is an image of such a setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIkEX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIkEX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting thing about these is they are setup sequentially, where the main 2-barrel carb will be used at first, then when the throttle is down enough, you'll get the other two carbs to open allowing for a large rush of air/fuel mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup up &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; improve performance of the engine, with one caveat: &lt;em&gt;only if the engine can utilize the increase in air flow&lt;/em&gt;. You can put as large of a carburetor on your engine as you want, but if the engine cannot utilize the increase, it will become a dog and will not perform. Other items such as increased exhaust flow (ie: headers), head port work, and large cylinder displacement will be need to fully utilize such a setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another common setup called a &lt;em&gt;Tri-Duce&lt;/em&gt;. This was General Motors' version of this setup, but worked much the same way. You could find the Tri-Duce mainly on Corvettes and Pontiacs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="5026" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T14:58:21.157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T14:58:21.157" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24441" CreationDate="2016-01-09T15:04:09.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Engine Remap&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way of increasing the power from your engine, depending on the car is to get your engine &quot;remapped&quot;. This effectively means that your cars on-board computer (or ECU) has had its software changed and as a result the engine is told to produce more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be noted that changing the software used by the car can also be referred to as chipping or flashing (the same as you might flash a new bios on a motherboard for your desktop computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaps come in stages. A stage 1 remap is only tempering the software in the car. Stage 2 may mean new exhaust system and/or other components. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.celtictuning.co.uk/services/performance-stats/bmw/4-series-f3x-2013/diesel/435d-308-bhp-2013/stage-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an example of a stage 1 engine remap. You can enter your car in to that site if you'd like to see more specific details of the benefits of remapping your engine on your particular car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PROS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More power (BHP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot more power if your car has a turbo especially&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better engine efficiency (but not normally better fuel consumption due to the increase in power)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often a sportier feel to the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CONS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other components may be built to cope with the extra power and torque unless they are also upgraded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must notify your car insurance provider on most policies or you could risk not being covered in the event of an accident (at least in the UK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will void your warranty assuming you still have one (see note below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; One interesting thing about that last point made was that a stage 1 remap normally consists of &lt;strong&gt;only a software change&lt;/strong&gt;. What this means is that if you car to the official car dealership (with most manufacturers, I know this for a fact with VW) is that when you take it in for a standard service, your software changes will show up as an error and they will reset your software for you back to factory default as part of their service. This means that they have (accidentally) reinstated your warranty as there is now no evidence that you would have tempered with it to begin with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Never service a car at the dealership unless you want to loose your remap!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; You may be surprised at the amount of car manufacturers that will reduce the power that an engine produces to improve fuel consumption as well as use that same engine on more of their cars. You can then make use of this extra power when you have your engine remapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; This is of course only applicable to engines that have an ECU of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.remapuk.co.uk/about-ecu-remapping/ecu-remapping-chip-removal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good source of images for a chip replacement.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T10:19:25.017" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T10:19:25.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24451" CreationDate="2016-01-09T15:53:37.390" Score="9" ViewCount="24081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the following question recently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is it about performance cams that make engines produce more power when they are installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are a few components for cars that have &quot;cam&quot; in the name, like &quot;camshaft&quot;, &quot;cam belt&quot;, &quot;cam sensor&quot;, &quot;reversing &lt;em&gt;cam&lt;/em&gt;era&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly do they mean by &quot;performance cams&quot; and how do they increase power output from the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:26:40.427" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:26:40.427" Title="What are Performance Camshafts?" Tags="|engine|performance|engine-theory|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24447" CreationDate="2016-01-09T16:34:01.820" Score="4" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1997 Ford Fiesta I sometimes drive has started to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6CTYHa5Wgs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;strange sound&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has started to make a ticking sound after I was pushing the tiny little 1.25L engine very hard on the way up North with more weight than it was probably built to handle. There was not much else I could do to stop it from decelerating up the hills!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here is what I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the part in the engine bay that is faulty (i.e. the source of the noticeable ticking sound)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it easy to replace said part?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:05:32.340" Title="1997 Ford Fiesta Strange Ticking Noise" Tags="|engine|ford|noise|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24446" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:05:32.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; There is &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; no way to tell from the video what is causing the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the video it sounds like an exhaust leak causing the tick ... but smartphone video is notorious for not giving an accurate sound representation, so this is what you need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Harbor Freight somewhere close to you, go down and purchase an &lt;em&gt;automotive stethoscope&lt;/em&gt; (aka: Mechanic's stethoscope). Here is a picture of one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgMeI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgMeI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. The way you use this is to put the ends in your ears, then use the pointy end to probe different areas until you figure out where the noise is coming from. This will allow you to pinpoint the exact location of the noise. Then you can ask a qualified question as to what might be at issue and how to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:05:32.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:29:08.767" Score="21" ViewCount="129469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trickle-charging a car using direct connections to the battery. I thought this couldn't be simpler: ventilate, unhook the battery, connect the positive first, then the negative, then turn on the power. Then I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-use-a-trickle-charger&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Locate a Suitable Ground Location&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finding a suitable location to attach the negative terminal of your charger is the key to safe and effective completion of your trickle charger circuit. Ideally a spot of bare metal on the frame, or a large bolt attached to the chassis or engine block should be used, but if one cannot be located, a section of the frame that is free of excessive dirt, grime and oil will suffice. The negative terminal on the battery should never be used, as it can cause an explosion or fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Attach Cables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Connect the alligator clips. There should be a black clip and a red clip. Take the red or positive cable and attach it to the positive terminal of the battery to be charged. Once you have ensured you have a solid connection, connect the black, negative wire to your ground location located in step 2. It is important to ensure that this negative wire is solidly attached before plugging in your charger. Do not touch the wires while the charger is plugged in and turned on, as serious shock or injury may occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Connect the black clip to the negative batter terminal and the red clip to the positive one. Once everything is in place, connect the trickle charger to a power socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which is confusing, not only because it seems to contradict itself (first it advocates never using the negative battery terminal, then at the end it says to use it after all), but also because there's a mess of disagreements in the comments, for example...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am a professional, factory Toyota trained technician. I can tell you right now, that you, and the author of the original post don't know what you're talking about. ... Secondly, you do NOT hook a battery charger up to charge a battery by applying an alternate ground source, i.e. an engine block. The ground connection for a battery charger, used at a 2-4 amp rate (trickle charging) should ALWAYS be applied direct to the ground side post of the battery. Hence why, you remove the battery from the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not sure who to believe... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various other sites seem to say what I'd always thought, which is to use the two battery terminals, but some people here seem convinced that this risks an explosion, even if you don't turn on any power until both croc clips are connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[to prevent] making a rather dramatic mistake. BLACK goes to GROUND [usually a metal bracket or large bolt head that's attached to the engine well sheet metal], and RED, to the positive post on the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do with the negative (black) croc clip on my trickle charger, to ensure safe, stable charging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:30:41.380" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T18:10:42.210" Title="Should negative trickle charger clips be attached to the battery negative terminal, or ground?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24455" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:31:43.853" Score="17" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have friends that goto Track Days frequently on their motorcycles.  If the first session is very cold they use their old tires and don't ride real hard because they don't want to shear their good newer track tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the track warms up they will put on their newer tires and ride much harder.  They discuss cold tire shearing as the reason they don't use their newer tires during this first morning session when the track is cold and dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is cold tire shearing?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T23:30:33.137" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:57:03.957" Title="What is cold tire shearing?" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24454" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:36:11.543" Score="7" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;When this bike is cold the 1st and 4th cylinders do not fire.  Pulling the plugs and checking them, there is not spark.  If you get the bike hot, it runs really bad on the way there, 1 and 4 come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's in the summertime and the bike sits in the sun, sometimes 1 and 4 will fire and the bike will run and start normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's going on here?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:25:17.823" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T00:27:30.943" Title="1973 CB350-four, no spark on 1 and 4 when it's cold" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|starting|ignition|cb350-four|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24445" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:51:18.687" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;A cam...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in its most generic sense converts &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotary motion into linear motion or vice versa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; using solid egg-shaped actuators (lobes)¹.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJEKs.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJEKs.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wikimedia cam animation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;An engine camshaft...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;refers to the shaft which houses a series of cams that actuate the opening/closing of the intake and exhaust valves on a four-stroke engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;A performance camshaft...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is just a camshaft whose lobe profile is tailored to utilize more of an engine's potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a visual comparison²:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zG3WL.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zG3WL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;bestservis.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The performance improvement can come from two types of change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;altered valve lift&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;usually a higher lift on the lobe, which increases in length of the valve stroke, which allows for more air to enter through the inlet valves, increasing the power potential of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;altered valve timing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; - essentially modify &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; the valves open and close, which has an impact on the effective compression ratio, power output, emissions and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a neat diagram summarizing lots of camshaft-related terminology³:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wOyd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wOyd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cam terminology&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Performance camshafts don't guarantee performance&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For several possible reasons. :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the existing camshaft is well-optimized&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;something else is limiting the engine's potential&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECU maps are not taking advantage of the hardware change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing to remember here is that engine power isn't totally reliant on a single component in most situations. It's usually all about how the different component play in harmony with one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;sub&gt;References&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Nockenwelle_ani.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia&lt;/a&gt;, ² - bestservis.com, ³ - rbracing-rsr.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:51:18.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24445" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:52:16.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Performance cams have various cam lobe configurations where the valve lift and duration are changed from OEM to provide better efficiency for the combustion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a distinction between efficiency for the combustion process and efficiency of fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combustion efficiency can be related to how much air and fuel can get into the engine and provide more power.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel consumption efficiency is the attempt to use less fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more duration and valve overlap you can get better &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;volumetric efficiency&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the volume of air -fuel mixture drawn into the cylinder at atmospheric pressure during the intake strokes compared to the volume of the cylinder, is known as volumetric efficiency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High Performance camshafts;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can push a valve deeper into the combustion chamber and open the poppet a bit more to allow freer flow of gasses.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can leave the valve open for a longer period of time to allow more gasses to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can be configured with a degree wheel and dial indicator to have more valve overlap to flush the combustion chamber of spent exhaust gas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can be timed and have slots on them to change their relation in time to a partner camshaft (DOHC) or the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can be timed for &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24208/what-is-lobe-separation-angle-lsa&quot;&gt;various LSA's&lt;/a&gt; to achieve some of the above configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:52:16.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T17:56:11.797" Score="3" ViewCount="2463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 F150 with a 4.2L engine. The engine warms to a normal operating temp. Blower motor is fine. No matter where the AC/Heater control switch is turned to I only get cold air. Im thinking the switch is bad. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14156" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:15:36.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:15:36.210" Title="Heater only blowing cold air" Tags="|ford|hvac|heater|f-150|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24450" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:05:10.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things about this bike if it is OEM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has two sets of coils.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has two sets of points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the right side cover off the motor where the crank is, you can see if the points have been swapped out with signal generators, a common mod for this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One coil fires for cylinder 1 and 4, the other fires for cylinder 2 and 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO you have a bad coil that has an open when it's cold.  Usually, you have the open when it is hot and the bike shows the same symptoms you describe but in opposite temperature conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the theory of a bad coil by putting one of them in the sun or in a regular oven, preheat it to 125F.  Use a thermometer to measure the heat in the oven before doing this, you don't want to melt it.  Make sure you preheat the oven so the glowing coils don't melt it as it heats the oven to the appropriate temp.  You can go as high as 150F.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the coil is hot, test it on the bike.  If it runs, check of that box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then take the coil and put in your freezer.  Repeat the test.  If you don't have spark, the coil is the source of your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have signal generators and the above test fails, you can run the same test with them.  They get very hot mounted directly to the engine so you don't have to worry.  Just validate your oven temps and let it preheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coil test fails and you have points, just swap your points.  They're very cheap and it never hurts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of that fails then come back here with all of your data and ask a new question.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, it's the coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T00:27:30.943" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T00:27:30.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24449" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:19:02.197" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold tire shearing occurs when the temperature of the carcass of the tire is cooler and the surface temperature of the tread get's very hot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of the tire begins to tear off or shear.  You hear a lot about this in various race series for cars and motorcycles where they don't allow tire warmers or the ambient temperature is very low for a race or practice session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conditions that can contribute to this effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Over inflated tire when it's cold.  We would start our tire pressure in the morning at about 28 to 35 pounds, after coming in we would have the psi raise up to as high as 38 to 40 psi.  If you start at the OEM recommended or the stamped maximum on the tire you could go into practice at 42 psi and come in at 46 psi plus.  Higher pressures can be dangerous though as you will have less mechanical grip (friction).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riding too hard on the cold carcass rather than just running the tire in for a lap or two&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor weight distribution.  Reduced rake in the front by raising the forks in the triple clamps too aggressively can load up the front end too much.  Lower the forks in the triple clamps too aggressively can put too much weight on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dampening and springs.  Setting compression dampening too high or cranking the springs (front or rear) can also contribute to this condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core issue frequently over inflation in combination with cold tires and cold track.  Your friends caution in the morning is well served.  Go out on old tires, clean the track and do laps with the rest of the field, take it easy and ramp into the fresh tires as the sun begins to heat up the track.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tires will look like this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0Tdp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0Tdp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T21:57:03.957" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T21:57:03.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:36:14.737" Score="9" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;GM developed magnetic dampers for the Corvette several years back.  What is magnetic active suspension and how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there is a magnetic fluid in the shocks but how, deep down, does this work other than running electricity through it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think they licensed this to Ferrari too but that's a forum statement and I don't have a citation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T00:07:37.107" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T00:01:55.333" Title="Magnetic Active Suspension or Magnetorheological Damper" Tags="|chevrolet|suspension|gm|corvette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24471" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:38:06.347" Score="30" ViewCount="3476" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a 5 stroke engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why aren't they using them in vehicles right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a new thing or has it been around for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T04:05:59.440" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T12:31:33.613" Title="5-Stroke Engines - What are these things?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1921" CreationDate="2016-01-09T18:51:47.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;head gasket is when water is in oil which is not that expensive if the engine does not otherheat .&#xA;If you drive your car and water temperature doesn't go over 100 degrees then your headgasket is ok .And this mean you have these 2 problems &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oil cooler&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crack in the Block&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If is oil cooler it's easy to change and after you need to clean your water cooling system,after couple good washes(means 10+ ,drain water add new one clean the reservoiar) you change thermostat and water pomp .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If is the block crack then is cheaper to find another engine instead of repair . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14157" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:07:42.027" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:07:42.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24460" CreationDate="2016-01-09T19:10:17.007" Score="8" ViewCount="3491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '07 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check Engine Light came on 2 weeks ago, ran the diagnostics : Misfire in cylinder 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we changed the spark plug in that cylinder to see if that was the issue and it was. Since you are supposed to change all of them and not just one, this weekend we changed the other 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is reving too high and accelerates without pressing the gas. It gets up to 20 miles per hour before it levels off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also difficult to brake, the pedal is stiff. Any suggestions as to what it might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14158" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T19:14:53.630" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T12:41:14.977" Title="High revs after changing spark plugs" Tags="|sparkplugs|chrysler|town-and-country|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24459" CreationDate="2016-01-09T19:20:45.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fast idle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hard brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these point to a vacuum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the brake booster vacuum line; it might have been compromised during the spark plug swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:20:45.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13132" CreationDate="2016-01-09T19:41:08.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Nissan website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can prior model year vehicles be upgraded with new software that is compatible with NissanConnectSM with Mobile Apps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may or may not answer your question because it's according to model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanusa.com/connect/faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the page the data was pulled from.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:41:08.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12936" CreationDate="2016-01-09T19:48:37.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's possible&lt;/em&gt; that the brake booster line was disconnected during your work.  Check the brake booster valve and hose and ensure they are connected/functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve for the brake booster is where the line attaches too in the brake booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of brake booster line, valve and booster&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11OSZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11OSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:48:37.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22955" CreationDate="2016-01-09T19:57:05.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would begin to look around your windshield molding, front and back.  Ensure the rubber is not dry rotted.  Dry rot can occur from many heat cycles (night/day) as well as ultra violet light exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spotlight mount is also a good place to check to ensure the rubber mount is nicely sealed against the body of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If water can into the body, during rain or from condensation, between the interior and the body itself it can condensate and begin to buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this happen with a VW Rabbit 30 years ago and I fixed it by replacing my windshield molding and drying out the space by using a blow drier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a possible cause to the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T19:57:05.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24466" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:00:17.557" Score="9" ViewCount="4125" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Touareg has the intake piping secured with a bunch of spring-type hose clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently use a miniature C-clamp to expand them, but it is painfully slow, prone to slipping and access can be a problem at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wwx8J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wwx8J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spring Type Hose Clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of bent-nose pliers but they don't open wide enough. Before sinking funds into acquiring a bigger version of it, I was wondering if there is something that keeps the clamp expanded without keeping one hand busy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a more convenient, purpose-built tool for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T01:26:04.650" Title="What is the right tool to expand a large spring-type hose clamp?" Tags="|tools|hose-clamp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24464" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:03:44.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slip joint pliers can do the job quite well, but I usually use a pair of Vice Grips. There is, however a tool made for this. Here's an image of one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldYvE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldYvE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called a: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hcl-clamping.com/Spring-Clamp-Flexible-Ratchet-Tool-P40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spring Clamp - Flexible Ratchet Tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:03:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24464" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:06:18.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use this tool to get the job done.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are called &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.toolsource.com/index.php/2010/04/toolsource-exclusive-meritool-hose-clamp-pliers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hose Clamp Pliers.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9IMR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9IMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not the right tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCQrp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCQrp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T21:29:11.000" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T21:29:11.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:20:54.047" Score="10" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to diagnose an IAC as needing cleaning without actually taking it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I recently was having some idle issues with my 99 Nissan Almera 1.6L which were solved &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24047/7132&quot;&gt;by adjusting the idle air screw&lt;/a&gt;.  The person who suggested that solution felt that maybe the TB valve was worn and closing too much, but I wasn't convinced that it wasn't a dirty IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case is on my 98 Mazda 626 2L.  Unlike the Almera, which has &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24093/why-have-more-than-one-iac-type-device-on-an-engine?lq=1&quot;&gt;three devices for adjusting intake air flow&lt;/a&gt;, the 626 has only a single IAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At warm idle, at 650 rpm, the IAC is around 46% open which would make me think that maybe I need to open the idle air screw a bit.  However, turning the AC on full blast only increases IAC open to about 54% which isn't that much extra and makes me think plenty of air is getting through the idle air screw and that the IAC is open so much because it's partially clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, how would one go about diagnosing an IAC dirty enough to be partially restricted and in need of cleaning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T15:05:20.933" Title="How to Tell if an IAC needs to be Cleaned?" Tags="|diagnostics|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:49:23.487" Score="5" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had someone come look at my car (big mistake I should have done I it myself). He said the spark plugs needed to be changed and while he was changing them he was revving the engine. He didn't put the spark plugs back correctly. I got the spark plugs in order but now my car will not start. It has power but does not turn over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14161" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T23:47:32.043" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T23:47:32.043" Title="2000 Buick Century not running after spark plug change" Tags="|starting|sparkplugs|buick|century|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:57:22.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to charge your battery then the car will turn over and you can troubleshoot why it's not starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jump start the car from another car using some jumper cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can put the car on a battery charger to get the battery charged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get it turning over, you can try and figure out the 'will not start' issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:57:22.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:31:52.640" Score="6" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;OPEL CORSA B Sedan 1.6 IE 1999. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to flush the coolant and bleed my brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the coolant, I have bought German HEPU antifreeze, Anyways, I only have a reservoir bottle and I do not have a radiator cap.I have a garden hose and a funnel and a drain pan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you flush the coolant with only access to the expansion tank?&lt;/strong&gt; Do you just stick the hose pipe with medium pressure in to the reservoir bottle, after it starts circulating (if it actually does) I can start the car and watch the temperature, then turn on the heater and the fan on 4 for a while, and continue the hose pipe flush. I would reckon a whole 10-15 minutes of this procedure.&#xA;**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can i use the German HEPU (96 % percent antifreeze) coolant alone and with no water - so i.e can you in general use antifreeze alone with no water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We get like -10 maybe worst case and up to +35 degrees Centigrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does my flush procedure sound correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it okay to use antifreeze alone?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14162" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T23:46:53.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T10:22:31.013" Title="How to flush coolant with only access to expansion tank?" Tags="|coolant|opel|corsa|flush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24457" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:41:29.173" Score="30" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is a 5 stroke engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They tend to consist of only three cylinders rather than the more traditional 4 stroke, 4 cylinder engines that many people are using today. There are two small small high-pressure cylinders and one larger low-pressure cylinder. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yo6xuVS7tg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; has some good information and animations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgCpl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgCpl.png&quot; alt=&quot;5 Stroke Engine Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why aren't they using them in vehicles right now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PROS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A secondary cylinder provides an additional expansion process enabling extra work to be extracted, which results in better thermodynamic efficiency (which means less thermal energy is wasted, hence the engine efficiency must increase)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 stroke engines tend to be quite small as the firing (smaller) cylinders can be very highly rated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine uses 100% conventional technology and so requires no new manufacturing techniques as such&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intended to increase engine efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intended to reduce emissions and fuel consumption&#xA;A few reasons as far as I can tell:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CONS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased manufacturing costs due to the fact that it is not widely adopted, also referred to as the &quot;early adopter tax&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not in mass production so it doesn't benefit from economies of scale (lower manufacturing cost per unit when made in higher quantities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a requirement to have two camshafts per engine, resulting in higher overheads on a production line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly higher cost of materials (much less significant compared to the first two points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Irregularly sized cylinders and cylinder casings, which would cause engineering difficulties and increased costs associated with that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More points of failure, resulting in less comprehensive warranties on new cars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a new thing or has it been around for a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia, according to Suzuki, Ph.D., Takashi (1997). The Romance of Engines. SAE. pp. 87–94., the engine was first introduced during the early 1900's by the Eisenhuth Horseless Vehicle Company, there was and I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;an unusual model called the Compound with three cylinders. Two were working cylinders, the larger middle one further expanded the exhaust gases of the outer working cylinders, this concept received later the name: '5-Stroke engine'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;References&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.vwvortex.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ilmor.co.uk/capabilities/5-stroke-engine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ilmor.co.uk/capabilities/5-stroke-engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eisenhuth_Horseless_Vehicle_Company&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eisenhuth_Horseless_Vehicle_Company&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:12:32.743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:12:32.743" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39859" CreationDate="2016-01-09T21:58:52.823" Score="8" ViewCount="2357" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Audi A6 C6 always shows (through MMI) that my battery level is 100% despite if it's almost empty. Wondering how does it work? Does it only checks the voltage of the battery? If so wouldn't it be 100% whenever the engine is running? Maybe anyone knows what can be wrong because I see 100% even if the engine is stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10336" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T06:34:45.230" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T06:34:45.230" Title="How does Audi A6 C6 battery level meter work?" Tags="|battery|audi|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24434" CreationDate="2016-01-09T22:03:28.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: you have a fuel leak. What you described would seem to indicate a leak or some major engine problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car run normally?&#xA;Since you didn't mention the car wasn't running bad, I assume it's running normal which would tend to dismiss a mechanical problem, like you aren't running on all the cylinders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at some numbers, like what is the normal gas mileage on a Pajero? 19.8 for a 2015 and 19.6 for a 2005.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/mitsubishi/pajero&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mitsusbishi Pajero Mileage&lt;/a&gt;.  Doesn't sound like it's a common problem with this car.  That is the first thing you look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotive.com/worst-cars/least-fuel-efficient-cars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Worst car mileage in 2016&lt;/a&gt;, it's the Toyota Tundra at:&#xA;  Fuel Economy:     13 MPG city / 18 MPG highway &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your mileage? 7.84 Miles per gallon.  That puts you way below the worst car this year, so this alone makes me think it's not mechanical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel systems are under pressure, so a leak may only happen when the car is running.  So, this is what I would do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car and run it for 5 to 10 minutes over a flat, dry, clean surface, like a concrete driveway.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a light and try to inspect it from underneath for leaking while it's running without actually getting under the car.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't see anything obvious, back it up and look for wet spots on the surface.  Red spots are trany fluid, brown or black is usually grease/oil.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What you want is a wet spot that dries up after a few hours, that is the gasoline.  If you find some, note the general location, but either way, still call another mechanic.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time however, these are the questions you ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you ever successfully diagnosed a problem like this, a hard to find fuel leak?  If yes, continue, no means call another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many have you done? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long did it take?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How did you solve the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mechanic doesn't give clear, concise answers to the last 3 questions, call another one.  If he has actually done it, he will be able to explain it easily.  The reason for the questions is because some mechanics, as in any field, will say anything to get work, at least that has been my experience anyway.  Also, it will give you some idea as to the cost of diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, please get it looked into right away.  A leak like this anywhere near the engine will cause a fire.  I know of a person that this happened to with a Volkswagen bug and the car literally went up in flames.  The person got out safely, but it's not something to play around with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="44272" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T04:19:49.930" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T04:19:49.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24495" CreationDate="2016-01-09T22:26:27.993" Score="3" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have a basic understanding of the role a cam shaft plays in the internal combustion engine, but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;what is a bearing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;? Or more specifically, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;what exactly is a &quot;cam shaft end bearing&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;where are cam shaft end bearings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the internal combustion engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3eLb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3eLb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cam Shaft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T15:07:11.883" Title="What are cam shaft end bearings?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24477" CreationDate="2016-01-09T22:39:11.220" Score="7" ViewCount="19918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope the answer is not too similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24474/what-are-cam-shaft-end-bearings&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a basic understanding of the role a crankshaft plays in the internal combustion engine, which leads me to ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crankshaft Bearings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are they?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are they?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do they differ from cam shaft bearings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t298c.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t298c.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Crankshaft - its the red one!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T10:39:17.893" Title="What are crankshaft bearings and how are they different from camshaft end bearings?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|bearing|camshaft|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T23:21:39.033" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil pressure cluster light is coming on and the chime sound as well,the oil level seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering what the problem may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1998 voyager has 138,000 miles and next oil change is not due yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T00:24:30.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T00:24:30.127" Title="1998 Plymouth Voyager" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24475" CreationDate="2016-01-09T23:22:47.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The two primary bearing types found on a crankshaft are roller bearings and plain bearings located on the main journals of a crankshaft.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of journals on a crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Main Journal - Where the crankshaft main bearings would be located&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rod/Offset Journal - Where the connecting rod bearings would be located&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crankshaft Components Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmM5C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmM5C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roller Bearings&lt;/strong&gt; are frequently pressed onto the crankshaft during assembly.  In order to replace bearings that are fitted in this fashion the crank pin/journal needs to be pressed out of the counterweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bf2Ac.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bf2Ac.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plain Bearings&lt;/strong&gt; split in half and are typically associated with crankcases that can split or support main bearing caps.  This also true of connecting rods on offset/rod journals.  Plain bearings wrap around the journal and are pressurized with oil, the crank journal 'rides' on this layer of oil between the crank journal and the plain bearing.  This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_bearing#Hydrodynamic_lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrodynamic lubrication&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dolgU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dolgU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camshaft End Bearings are Different&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do not require the load that a crankshaft endures during the combustion process and don't participate in the transfer of power from the combustion process, other than sapping it just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different designs of cramshaft end bearings.  There may be a cap with a roller bearing or a needle bearing in it, as in the &lt;strong&gt;image below&lt;/strong&gt; or simply a cap over a camshaft main journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poHo7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poHo7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A camshaft end bearing is also designed to reduce lateral movement of the camshaft in order for it to stay within a given lateral tolerance so the cam lobes always ride on the correct valve bucket or rocker arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The image below shows the use of camshaft end cap bearings in use.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ss0A1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ss0A1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T23:41:50.240" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T23:41:50.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T23:55:50.243" Score="10" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things have happened in the past couple days and I would like to know what could possibly be wrong before I take it all apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine dies after letting off the throttle while on the road.&#xA;When I try to accelerate the bike it almost feels like I tried to start in 3rd gear.  I can hear something rubbing in the engine and slight clicking from the carburetor (almost like a rattle but only when i engage the throttle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that you all could suggest could be wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think possible clutch plates or dirty carburetor but is that it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your help :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike is a Yamaha Virago 1982. 2 cylinders. I took out the carbs today and it seems as though one hasn't been working (one looks wet and lubricated while the other one appears dry)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T03:56:47.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T21:20:03.280" Title="1982 Yamaha Virago - Several things are wrong and i'd like to repair myself" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|maintenance|clutch|clutch-plate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24480" CreationDate="2016-01-10T00:07:19.910" Score="11" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have a friend with 1988 Jeep YJ.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this question is more appropriate for here or for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Electrical Engineering&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We want to mount this blender with an AC motor in it.  I think it's 110 volts and 3.5 amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbpWN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbpWN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also want to put these 12volt DC LED lights around the base of it so it looks cool when we are out at the lake late at night fishing making margaritas.  Plus, we can see what the margaritas look like when we are making them.  Bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxC1H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxC1H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkyxu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkyxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to mount my friends Jeep to the side of his house so we can use it as an AC generator.  We need about 250amps I think.  It needs to be able automatically couple into the house and connect a shaft through a radiator modification directly to the main pulley of the crankshaft of the vehicle.  The engine of the Jeep will then drive an AC generator mounted in the wall of the house to power it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I need to ground the Jeep to the earth in order to prevent any safety issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I convert the DC current from my battery to power the blender in the Jeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I procure AC LED's or DC LED's for my blender lighting solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help with a wiring diagram for the Jeep AC motor to integrate the power generation into the breaker panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone make some recommendations regarding guidelines of the type of AC generator I need to procure to mount in the house for the Jeep attachment driven attachment?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:06.710" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T02:02:33.703" Title="How do I make all of this work together?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24479" CreationDate="2016-01-10T01:02:31.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I convert the DC current from my battery to power the blender in the Jeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.de/search?q=12V%20110V%20inverter&quot;&gt;12V DC to 110V AC inverter&lt;/a&gt;. Google is full of this, so I just linked google. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your blender has nearly 400W, so you should look for something in the 500W range to have some margin. However, this makes 400W/12V=33.3A, which is very unlikely to be delivered by the cigarette lighter socket. So you have to connect it directly to the battery. Use thick cables, and definitely a 50-60A fuse in the positive line, not too far from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that 33A is pretty much. I only have a cute 40Ah battery, so 30 margaritas, and not only me, but also the car couldn't drive any more. I guess your Jeep has a bigger battery and will last longer, and when you concentrate more on fishing, you'll also not make that many margaritas, and it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will I need to ground the Jeep to the earth in order to prevent any safety issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The reason for earthing is that mains also uses the earth as conductor for electricy. If there is a device with faulty isolation (i.e. hot wire connected on the case), you could close the circuit to earth and get electrocuted. By earthing the case of the device, current takes that way (and probably blows the fuse)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These invertors &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be completely floating, i.e. the mains they produce is in no way connected to their case, and so to the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, read the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I procure AC LED's or DC LED's for my blender lighting solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, LEDs typically need up to about 3.5V DC, but as you said, there are 12V types, too. You could connect these directly to the 12V of your car. The longer leg / leg where the plasting flange is flattened a little needs to be connected to minus (chassis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any LEDs which you can directly connect to mains voltage. However, it sounds strange to convert 12V DC to 110V AC, and this back to 12V DC to power the LEDs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you do NOT have 12V LEDs, you should connect each LED to 12V via a resistor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;plus ----|====|-----|&amp;gt;|------ minus/chassis&#xA;        resistor    LED&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistor needs to have the value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;R=(14-Vled)/0.02A&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;since the maximum voltage in the car may be up to 14V and an LED usually sinks 20mA. The nominal voltage &lt;code&gt;Vled&lt;/code&gt; of the LED varies from type to type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can someone help with a wiring diagram for the Jeep AC motor to integrate the power generation into the breaker panel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear what you are planning to do here. You wrote you need 250A... At what voltage? At 110V this would be 27.5kW. This sounds like you want to run a flow-heater... Do you want to power a whole standard household by your Jeep instead of the power grid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor of your Jeep can deliver up to 100-135kW. What ever you are going to supply, you will only need a low fraction of the power, which makes this very inefficient. I'd say a stand-alone generator unit is usually better suited. It already contains all the circuits to generate nice 110V, and it is more (fuel) efficient. Probably, it's also cheaper than your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you write a bit more about that part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T09:30:24.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T09:30:24.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24464" CreationDate="2016-01-10T01:26:04.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If nothing else is available, I'd consider boot-pinch pliers, aka nail puller pliers, because the sharp edges will go under the lips and its going to be less likely to slip off than the C clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the right tool (as per other answers) would be much better, but for a once-off task then the right tool is quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aWly.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aWly.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T01:26:04.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18379" CreationDate="2016-01-10T01:44:44.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this tool as a &quot;Yankee Screwdriver&quot; or a  &quot;Yankee Ratchet&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer shows the right image, but theres a difference between a ratchet and a yankee driver.  A yankee driver has the ratchet left/right/locked out collar, but it also has a separate collar at the front to unlock the extending shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump action is a really long double helix, and inside the handle is an optional return spring.  Not all yankee screwdrivers have the return spring, so some of them you have to push in and pull out.  Most of the more recent ones only require to be pushed in by muscle and they will return to the elongated or loaded length by spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were made by North Brothers in  Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA, in the early 20th century.  The company was acquired by Stanley Toolco in the 1950s, and is now in the hands of a German company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These drivers are quite old-school, but they don't need batteries or power cords, and for small jobs will be quicker to deploy than a power tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides, none of them have modern quarter-inch hex sockets.  Instead the bits come in three diameters, which are related to the total length of the tool and the width of the collar.  So the bits aren't interchangeable between different sized drivers.  Bits are clipped into the driver and cannot pull loose, so you can't leave the bit in the screw when pulling away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magentised bits are really uncommon, I've had to make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to get adapters for these to suit standard 1/4&quot; hex drive, but it adds length and another source of movement.  Plus the hex bits drop out like any other bit holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the positive side - Yankee screwdrivers don't really wear out.  You can bent them by using them as levers, or break the bits, but there's very little other than the return spring and collar springs to break.  My dad still uses an 80 year old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg4nM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg4nM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T01:44:44.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24489" CreationDate="2016-01-10T02:26:25.113" Score="6" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpYC1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpYC1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See red arrow in the image. I place fuel additive in my car, all of the additives went into that pipe (in the red arrow image) because i didnt know how to place it. Will it still work? or just a waste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14169" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T09:11:02.947" Title="Fuel system question" Tags="|fuel-consumption|fuel-tank|fuel-injection|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T03:18:44.210" Score="6" ViewCount="5829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Accord, today I not that the parking hand brake has no resistance. Its really easy just to lift it up and turn on the parking brakes. Then I check the parking brakes and see that the brakes are stuck to the rotor. So adjusting the hand brake doesn't do anything. It's just been grinding away the brake pad for I don't know how long. Is there something wrong with my parking brake line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14170" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T03:20:48.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T09:07:10.993" Title="Hand Brake Loose" Tags="|honda|accord|handbrake|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T08:41:20.820" Score="6" ViewCount="1571" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate the amount of fuel injected (both gasoline and diesel cars). I want an instantaneous value.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Websites like these ask for 'Desired Crankshaft Power' which is not the actual power from the car, but a desired value by the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T12:00:08.670" Title="Calculate amount of fuel injected" Tags="|fuel-system|obd-ii|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24486" CreationDate="2016-01-10T09:07:10.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the parking brake is siezed on, hence no resistance when pulling the lever.  It looks like these cars use the same calliper to apply both the foot brake and the parking brake.  A common fault with these designs is that the lever on the calliper that the parking brake cable connects to siezes and so the brake doesn't release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is sometimes possible to lubricate the lever and work it back and forth the get it moving again but it will only be a temporary fix, a new calliper is really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be easy enough to to get to the lever on each rear brake to see if this is the case.  With the parking brake released (make sure you chock the wheels), see if there is no tension on the parking brake cable at the lever.  If this is the case then the lever has siezed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable is still tight, then your parking brake cable has probably siezed and itself needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T09:07:10.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24485" CreationDate="2016-01-10T09:11:02.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That pipe probably goes to the tank too, it is just there to let air out of the tank while adding fuel down the main pipe.  I believe that your additive will be in the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T09:11:02.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24470" CreationDate="2016-01-10T10:22:31.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I completely forgot about the draining part, but have no time left. So, here about he antifreeze part. May be, I'll write more later&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may work, but is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Freezing point&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antifreeze freezes at -15°C. To prevent antifreeze from freezing, add some water, because water is antifreeze for antifreeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, I had some fun... Seriously, here a typical diagram of the freezing point of an water-antifreeze mixture. It clearly shows that the best effect is achieved at about 60% antifreeze in water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx06C.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx06C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corrosion inhibitor&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could think that 25% antifreeze would be fine for your climate conditions. But antifreeze also inhibits corrosion inside your motor. Therefore, you need at least 50%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heat capacity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &lt;em&gt;heat capacity&lt;/em&gt; describes how much the temperature increases when you add some heat energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For water, it is 4.2J/(K * g) This means, to heat 1 gram of water by 1 K (same as 1°C), you need 4.2 Joule.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other liquids are somewhere in the range of 1-2J/(K * g). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes water a superior coolant liquid, but with pure antifreeze, your car could overheat in the summer. Again, the less antifreeze, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Viscosity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antifreeze has a low viscosity (i.e. how easy it flows. Honey has an extremely low viscosity). &#xA;This will lead to a lower flow and so less effective cooling. I'm not sure how big this effect is, but at least, it will have a small effect on fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, most points say that more water is better, but the corrosion part dictates that you should at least have 50% antifreeze, though you don't need the deep freezing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much coolant also has some adverse effects, so you shouldn't use pure antifreeze, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay with 50%, it's also cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T10:22:31.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24487" CreationDate="2016-01-10T10:50:56.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know what the fuel pressure is at the injector, what size of injector you have (flow rate), and you pull out the pulse width (how long the injector stays on), you can figure out how much fuel is being injected each and every time it fires. You should be able to pull out the pulse width at any given time from the ECU, if you pull the right PID. It's going to be hard to read (visually), though, because things will be firing at quite a quick rate, usually. Since every vehicle is going to be different, it would be hard pressed to give you &lt;em&gt;one distinct answer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculations from the page you have linked can be used to help you with that flow rate. Those calculations do not ask for &quot;Desired Crankshaft Power&quot;, they expect you to know the approximate value of the engine combination you have built &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; what the dyno numbers are for a given engine. The idea is to see if the injector size you have (or are looking at) can support the amount of power which an engine produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T10:50:56.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T11:40:37.250" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#Mode_01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-II protocol&lt;/a&gt; (SAE J1979) has a couple of PID's that relate to engine load:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+------+-----+---------------------------------+&#xA;| Mode | PID | Description                     |&#xA;+------+-----+---------------------------------+&#xA;|  01  |  04 | Calculated engine load value    |&#xA;+------+-----+---------------------------------+&#xA;|  01  |  43 | Absolute engine load value      |&#xA;+------+-----+---------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that calculated engine load is expected to be a number between 0 and 100%, while absolute load ranges between 0 and 25,700%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conceptually, what is the difference between these two fields?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T11:40:37.250" Title="Calculated vs absolute engine load" Tags="|obd-ii|engine-load|terminology|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-10T16:26:20.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24487" CreationDate="2016-01-10T11:45:50.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#Mode_01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-II protocol&lt;/a&gt; (SAE J1979).:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+------+-----+-------------------+&#xA;| Mode | PID | Description       |&#xA;+------+-----+-------------------+&#xA;|  01  |  5E | Engine fuel rate  |  ( liters/hour )&#xA;+------+-----+-------------------+&#xA;|  01  |  43 | Engine RPM        |&#xA;+------+-----+-------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the RPM to figure out how much fuel is injected per engine cycle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T12:00:08.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T12:00:08.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T14:28:52.250" Score="23" ViewCount="32669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2015 BMW M5 and it has an aftermarket CAI and a catback (slip on) exhaust. No other performance mods or tunes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 6-7 months ago, I bought a Kiwi OBD-II reader, simply out of curiosity as I am a computer guy and a geek and was curious about various ECU numbers and wanted to see how the car was doing. This is when I noticed very strange LTFT and STFT values and have been pretty much going crazy trying to diagnose what might be going on since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really are no fault codes or apparent issues with the car other than a very mild jumpy rpm, &quot;only when during cold start&quot;, which I believe is actually normal for the M5 (cannot be sure) where when the car is cold and you start it, RPMs go all the way up to 1800 rpm to warm up the cats and when they drop, there is some up/down movement around 700-900 rpm and it goes on for maybe 1-2 seconds and stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a constant rpm surging or car almost stalling. It's more controlled and consistent. I am almost sure that it is standard procedure by ECU because its the same thing day in day out regardless of weather or situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this there has been absolutely no other issues with the car. No CEL, no rough idling, no knocking, no misfires, no black smoke from the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me describe the issues with the fuel trims at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LTFT's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LTFT's between Bank 1 and Bank 2 are vastly off. When I mean vastly, they can be off by as much as 10%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LTFT's are always negative, meaning the car is adjusting for a rich condition? - During cold start, they are about -11% vs -19%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the car is warm, between idle and 3,500 rpm, they are usually -4% vs -14%, but are never equal, although they do come close to each other a lot such as -7% vs -12%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Past 3,500 rpm, either light throttle (so I constantly keep rpms at 4000 rpm, not accelerating) or WOT, both Bank 1 and Bank 2 values reach to -0,5% or maybe +1%, and they become identical and stay consistent all the way to the redline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At idle, the LTFT's are a little lower, but still off, around -2.0% vs -8.0%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STFT's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STFT's between two banks are almost identical and are almost always positive, meaning ECU is adjusting for a lean condition, which by the way should be normal since I have an aftermarket CAI that is obviously allowing much more air into the engine causing more fuel to be matched (that's my understanding).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is where my confusion starts.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Not only are the STFT's positive (they are usually around +2.0% to +4.0%), but they are also very close to each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is &quot;some&quot; variation between the two, but the difference is always around 1% and it can be bank 1 or bank 2 that is off, although bank 1 (which is also the side that is running very negative in LTFT) seems to be richer, but there are many times the same bank runs leaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During idle, STFTs are usually -4.5% (identical both sides, no variation) and the numbers settle at 0.0 to 0.8% with slight variation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under WOT, they go +11-12%, again, identical both banks, and consistent to the redline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To me STFT values look normal, they don't vary that much, they are close to 0.0 in low RPMs, and they are usually equal with slight variation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I checked all available values ECU reports, such as lambda values bank 1 and bank 2, O2 sensor voltages (there are so many of them), everything, I mean everything I can see looks almost identical. There is some slight variation, but they are not off 10% like LTFTs are. I cannot detect any pattern whatsoever anywhere else in the car and this is just driving me crazy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my limited knowledge this can be one of 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MAF sensors are dirty and one side is reading low values causing the rich condition. So I can clean the MAF sensors with CRC cleaner although I was very careful not touching them during my intake installation, I don't see how that is possible. Furthermore, if MAF sensors were dirty, wouldn't this show up in STFT values, not LTFT?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Injectors are leaking. I have no way of knowing if this is true without some direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;O2 sensors are not good. Again, as per ECU data, they are reporting equal values. Now those values might be bad, but they are equal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what else this can be. I am just worried that the engine has been running like this for far too long, under way too much load (it's a 600 hp car) and I worry sometime in the future a catastrophic failure may happen, an injector may leak a lot and cause hydrolock or some other issue may happen. Or I am thinking maybe this is just some ECU anomaly. I know my tool works because I plugged it into a whole bunch of cars ranging from 328 to 528 to X5 5.0 and it always reports consistent and more reasonable numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imageshack.com/a/sal4/1&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here are some screenshots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T15:21:46.647" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T16:16:03.560" Title="LTFT and STFT values are off and don't make sense" Tags="|fuel-system|bmw|electronic-control-module|fuel-trims|m5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2016-01-10T15:07:11.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cam shaft or any shaft needs to be controlled. Obviously it needs controlled from bending/flexing. This is done by providing bearings along the shaft that are evenly spaced apart and that are close enough together that the shaft will not deflect. The not so obvious control is from moving back and forth along its axis. A crank shaft uses a thrust bearing to control this motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QX7p6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QX7p6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source :&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevydiy.com/big-inch-chevy-small-block-building-blueprinting-cheat-sheet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chevydiy.com/big-inch-chevy-small-block-building-blueprinting-cheat-sheet/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two basic cam setups, overhead valve (with the cam in the block) and overhead cam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overhead cam engines are the easiest to understand. The cam is held to the head with bearing caps. One of these caps is used as the trust bearing. The overhead cam setups don't use bearing inserts, instead the head surface is used as a bearing directly. This applies to almost every overhead cam engine, there are exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overhead valve is where it gets confusing. There are two distinct cases, roller lifters and non roller lifters or just regular lifters. The regular lifter setup came first so lets start there. The camshaft lobes are ground in such a way that there is a slope to the lobes. This slope is used to spin the lifter but it has a side effect. The effect is that the slope slides the cam backwards in the block. After the cam is installed into the block a thrust plate captures the cam. This plate keeps the cam from sliding out of the block and provides a bearing surface. The back of the cam gear then has a bearing or bushing. The final result is that the cam is forced back which forces the back of the cam gear against the thrust plate. This action hods the cam from walking around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWGVI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWGVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source&lt;a href=&quot;http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cast-roller-cams-and-high-spring-pressures-don-t-work-well.1489/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cast-roller-cams-and-high-spring-pressures-don-t-work-well.1489/&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xo3fz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xo3fz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source :&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevydiy.com/build-big-inch-chevy-small-block-engines-camshafts-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chevydiy.com/build-big-inch-chevy-small-block-engines-camshafts-guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a roller cam the lobe profile is flat instead of sloped. Because of this the cam looses the action of being slid back. This necessitates adding a bearing at the end of the cam to keep it from sliding forward. Similar to the regular lifter cam the back of cam gear has a bushing or bearing to control the back wards movement. If converting a regular lifter cam to a roller cam the timing cover is commonly replaced with a special one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv2wf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yv2wf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source :&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevydiy.com/big-inch-chevy-small-block-building-blueprinting-cheat-sheet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chevydiy.com/big-inch-chevy-small-block-building-blueprinting-cheat-sheet/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T15:07:11.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24498" CreationDate="2016-01-10T16:58:59.440" Score="7" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm Looking for a part name and info on what could have caused the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have an 03 peugoet 206 1.4 HDI and I lost a cylinder after going though them by disconnecting each injector and can see the 3rd from the left is not working. So I have striped the rocker cover off and can see that there is a little thing that goes to the top of the valves (in between the camshaft and valves) has snapped in half what is this part called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the camshaft has manged to snap this part what could have caused it? could the valve have seized to cause this? I have had a new cam belt quite recently could the be caused by it skipping a tooth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33022" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T17:37:18.280" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T17:50:05.400" Title="Camshaft problem not sure what needs replacing" Tags="|car|peugeot|valve|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2016-01-10T17:47:39.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a photo I would take a guess at it being a rocker arm.  It could have snapped due to age related stresses, or as you said you may have a valve problem.  A sticking valve could be caused by a lack of coolant in the head or maybe a lack of lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T17:47:39.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2016-01-10T17:50:05.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the part you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bIwQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bIwQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, it's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rexbo.eu/febi/rocker-arm-valve-train-36422?c=100398&amp;amp;at=33566&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rocker arm&lt;/a&gt;. The most probable reason for its demise is metal fatigue or maybe it just broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=79931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt; (and others), it appears that these were designed to fail in case of catastrophic cam belt failure. With that in mind, it's not inconceivable that one of them has broken just out of usage. You can readily buy replacement rockers to fix this issue. You probably want to inspect all of the rocker arms very closely to ensure others aren't ready to fail as well. A cautious person with money to burn might also want to replace all of the rockers just to ensure they are all on an even footing (as far as usage goes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T17:50:05.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24515" CreationDate="2016-01-10T19:39:10.783" Score="20" ViewCount="8348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that many electric cars use regenerative braking to enable the car to become more efficient by converting what would otherwise be lost heat energy in to a more useful, reusable form of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrCzq.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrCzq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Regenerative Braking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely, there must be some way of engineering a new brake design that would allow for the use of this technology on a more conventional car powered by a normal internal combustion engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly is regenerative braking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why can we only use regenerative braking on electric and hybrid cars?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any reason why we can't use this clever braking technology in order to increase power to the crankshaft or reduce fuel consumption?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sjam4uphysics.pbworks.com/w/page/38936885/Regenerative%20Braking&quot;&gt;http://sjam4uphysics.pbworks.com/w/page/38936885/Regenerative%20Braking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T20:13:15.643" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T10:30:56.133" Title="What is regenerative braking and why don't we use it?" Tags="|engine|brakes|engine-theory|braking|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24510" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:06:05.617" Score="10" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram of a disk brake. Notice that there is a piston (in red):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItZcK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItZcK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disc Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a piston, most commonly used inside the internal combustion engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnBLO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hnBLO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Piston&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image 1 Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sjam4uphysics.pbworks.com/w/page/38936885/Regenerative%20Braking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sjam4uphysics.pbworks.com/w/page/38936885/Regenerative%20Braking&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image 2 Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.emaze.com/@AOTOZWQZ/Piston,-Piston-Ring,-Cylinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.emaze.com/@AOTOZWQZ/Piston,-Piston-Ring,-Cylinder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two types of piston are clearly similar enough to have the same name but different enough not to be interchangeable with one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the characteristic properties of a piston by definition?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the difference between the two types of pistons?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T23:51:54.200" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T06:58:05.103" Title="What exactly is a piston?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:15:47.067" Score="9" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car used, it is a 2006 Scion tC. The original color of the car is silver, as I gleaned from looking at my door jamb. However, I believe the previous owner painted the top half of the car (the hood, half of the mirrors, and from the windows up) a metallic blue color. I would like to repaint a section of the car the blue color, but I'm not sure how I could identify what specific blue it is. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14179" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:33:54.797" Title="How to tell what color your car is (not in door jamb)" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:27:12.317" Score="5" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have begun doing some research on the effects of idling. So my question is, does idling with the AC or heater on affect how much gas is given off? If possible, please give the percent of extra gas given off (e.g. AC causes 10% of extra gas to be given off). Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T22:04:15.753" Title="What causes more gas consumption - Idling with AC or Heat?" Tags="|ac|fuel-consumption|idle|gasoline|heater|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-11T12:14:16.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24504" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:31:00.150" Score="12" ViewCount="10885" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a tire's propensity to hydroplane proportional or inversely proportional to tire pressure?  That is, if a tire is over inflated or under inflated, is it more or less likely to hydroplane?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; This subject came up in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24374/checking-tire-pressure-when-the-tire-is-warm-or-cold/24376?noredirect=1#comment37331_24376&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread and the moderators agreed that it deserved its own question. That's why it's posted here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T19:13:09.333" Title="How does tire pressure affect susceptility to hydroplane?" Tags="|tires|pressure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24503" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:31:00.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/rulings/TPMS_FMVSS_No138/part5.6.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article by the NHTSA a formula is given for calculating the speed at which a tire might be expected to hydroplane. The formula assumes &quot;...the water depth exceeds the capability of the tread design to remove water.&quot; The formula is:&lt;blockquote&gt;Hydroplaning speed = 10.35 x &amp;radic; inflation pressure&lt;/blockquote&gt; As some examples they give this table:&lt;br&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;At 30 psi, hydroplaning could occur at 56.7 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at 25 psi, hydroplaning could occur at 51.8 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 20 psi, hydroplaning could occur at 46.3 mph.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;Clearly, the lower the tire pressure the more likely a tire is to hydroplane.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;There are two main reasons for this&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;A tire with lower inflation pressure has more contact area, and it, therefore, takes less pressure to lift the tire off the pavement.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;A tire with lower inflation pressure presents a slightly concave profile to the pavement. This causes water trapped under the tire to be directed towards the tire's center line rather than away from it.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=3&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Conversely, a tire with higher pressure presents less contact area, which therefore requires more pressure to lift the tire off of the pavement, and it presents a slightly convex profile to the pavement, which directs water towards the outside of the tire rather than towards its center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T20:31:00.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24516" CreationDate="2016-01-10T20:46:54.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat is basically free: your car's heating system works by diverting some of the engine coolant through the heater block rather than the radiator, with the result that waste heat gets dumped into the cabin rather than the outside world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, air-conditioning works by connecting the AC's compressor to the engine output, drawing off energy that would otherwise go to the wheels (and potentially requiring a higher idle fuel flow to prevent stalling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11935" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T20:46:54.133" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-10T21:06:57.067" Score="6" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning my power steering stopped working and my heater and when I opened the hood there was coolant everywhere, looked like it came out of the radiator cap. The serpentine belt was off the lowest pulley and when I tried to put it back on I realized that pulley wasn't in line with the others, was not possible to put belt on. What would cause the pulley to move so far out of alignment and how can I fix it. Is this what's causing the other problems? It was below zero degrees last night and no garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T17:46:09.513" Title="97 Chevy lumina serpentine belt came off the bottom pulley" Tags="|chevrolet|radiator|steering|pulley|lumina|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24516" CreationDate="2016-01-10T22:04:15.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely air conditioning requires more energy, since heat is, as correctly stated in the other answer &quot;basically free&quot; because it's the waste heat from your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy00osti/28960.pdf&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; by R. Farrington and J. Rugh of the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Current air-conditioning systems can reduce the fuel economy of high fuel-economy vehicles by about 50% and reduce the fuel economy of today ís mid-sized vehicles by more than 20% while increasing NOx by nearly 80% and CO by 70%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This study was done in 2000, but is probably not that far off more recent figures, and it also shows that the cost is not merely in the energy used but in the increased pollution that results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T22:04:15.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24506" CreationDate="2016-01-10T22:26:03.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which pulley you're talking about, but would assume it's one of two: idler or tensioner. This is the pulley system of the 97 Lumina (should be the same for the 3.1 or 3.4 engine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqQBB.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqQBB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this setup doesn't have an idler pulley, it would most likely be the tensioner pulley which is not aligning (if not the tensioner, please tell me which one and I'll adjust this answer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to replace this pulley in order to get a new belt on it. Depending on what is out of whack, you could just replace the pulley itself, or the entire spring assembly. Once it is replaced, getting the belt on shouldn't be an issue. It would seem more than likely this is the cause of why you both lost your power steering &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; why your radiator cap exploded with coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you didn't overheat your car, there shouldn't be any complications. (NOTE: Just because radiator fluid escaped, doesn't mean it was overheated to the extent your engine suffered damage.) This really depends on how long the engine was running prior to you checking under the hood. As you can see from the diagram, the alternator, water pump, steering pump, and A/C compressor are all connected to this belt ... when it came off, you lost everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change out the tensioner, there should be (it appears) one bolt in the center (near the arrow in the picture) to pull the entire thing out. The tensioner with pulley should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6tHV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6tHV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can probably see, there is a pin on the spring side (right side of image) which holds the tensioner in place, along with the single bolt. You can possibly get a pulley by itself, but replacing the entire thing is a good preventative measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it truly is the &quot;bottom pulley&quot;, you have much more serious issues at hand. That's the crank pulley and would take a lot more intervention to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T22:26:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24500" CreationDate="2016-01-10T23:14:13.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the characteristic properties of a piston by definition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite simply put: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A piston plugs a hole.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piston&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is the moving component that is contained by a cylinder and is made gas-tight by piston rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I would disagree in the wiki assessment only to say it is sealed tight by &lt;em&gt;sealing rings&lt;/em&gt;. Not all pistons have rings attached to them, as I'll explain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, the similarity stops there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the two types of pistons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, a piston can be made of any material so long as it does the job at hand. Pistons used in modern internal combustion engines are most likely made of cast hypereutectic (over saturation of silicon content) aluminum. This is due to their light weight and strength to weight ratio. For more heavy duty applications, forged aluminum might be used. Forged aluminum is more resistant to detonation which might occur under high cylinder pressure. Hypereutectic pistons are shatter prone under high stress. Older vehicles may have used cast iron pistons, back when refining aluminum was very expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brake piston, on the other hand, can be made of plastic, aluminum, or chrome-plated steel. (Most I've seen are the latter.) Again, all it does is plug a hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brake piston is smooth on the outside radius. It is sealed from the inside of the caliper to hold the brake fluid in. The top of the brake caliper piston (the side which brake fluid acts upon) is relatively flat. This is to ensure the brake fluid is acting upon the piston equally across the entire face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine piston has ring groves machined into them. These ring groves provide space for piston rings which seals the cylinder almost completely tight, with two compression rings to provide the sealing (some truck applications use three sealing rings). There is a third ring grove at the bottom of the piston which provides space for an oil control set of rings. This helps scrape oil off of the cylinder walls, forcing it back down into the bottom to the oil pan. The face of the engine piston can be of many different varieties. Some have indentations to allow the valves a place to be (instead of hitting the piston!). There can also be crowns for higher compression and depressions for lower compression. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T18:45:10.440" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T18:45:10.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24506" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:01:11.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check all the pulleys and accessories to see if any are loose and can be wiggled back and forth. I got a '93 Chev truck that gave me some belt trouble. There is a flat mounting plate on the front of the engine that the power steering pump attached to. It was cracked and had some bolts out. Same could happen with any of the driven accessories if they have any movement. Once the serpentine belt flies off, engine overheats very quickly and it can be difficult to tell why the belt came off. So in your case, could be loose alternator, power steering pump, water pump, air cond. or tensioner. Check 'em all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T01:01:11.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24518" CreationDate="2016-01-11T01:33:44.090" Score="21" ViewCount="2744" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Service Engine Soon&quot; light came on yesterday and isn't going away on its own. The car drives fine, no weird noises, smells, or other symptoms. The manual is not very helpful, just directing me to take it to a professional for service. Before I do that, I'd like to try and eliminate any possible causes that are easy to check for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific car I'm working with is a 2002 Nissan Maxima that passed smog two weeks ago, but I'm interested in general advice too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm comfortable changing oil and filters but not much more. My tools are limited to a pair of jack stands, oil pan, and a wrench and socket set. I would prefer not to invest in new tools unless they are going to be useful again and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the possible causes for the &quot;check engine&quot; light that can be diagnosed at home? Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T23:11:27.640" Title="What possible causes for the &quot;check engine&quot; light can I check for myself?" Tags="|cel|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24499" CreationDate="2016-01-11T02:08:05.107" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: We do. It's just expensive.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the differences between electric and chemical energy motors is that the electric systems make it much more convenient to capture and retain energy (e.g., a battery). All you need to do is use induction to create an electric current right there at the wheel while braking. Point that current at that battery and you've retained energy that would otherwise be wasted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a chemical energy motor, it's a lot harder to store excess energy. We can't use the brakes to generate more gasoline, for example. However, it is possible to retain &lt;em&gt;kinetic&lt;/em&gt; energy in something like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinetic_energy_recovery_system&quot;&gt;KERS&lt;/a&gt;.  This will use the energy in braking to spin up a flywheel. That flywheel can then be used for additional motive power when needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, KERS units are expensive and require a bunch of additional engineering (how, exactly, are you going to get that spinning flywheel to actually push the car forward?). They're also not common so they don't benefit from economies of scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, they do work. Formula One has used them to great effect as a passing boost system. I wouldn't use that sort of capability on the road but I'd be happy to experiment with anything that helps me get more oomph out of a gallon of gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T10:25:26.203" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T10:25:26.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24517" CreationDate="2016-01-10T17:18:47.960" Score="4" ViewCount="3099" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have begun doing some research on the effects of idling. So my question is, does idling with the AC or heater on affect how much gas is given off? If possible, please give the percent of extra gas given off (e.g. AC causes 10% of extra gas to be given off). Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14180" OwnerDisplayName="penatheboss" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T02:20:53.107" Title="What causes more gas consumption - Idling with AC or Heat?" Tags="|temperature|gasoline|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24516" CreationDate="2016-01-10T19:16:01.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cars (except for some of those sold in very cold countries, I believe) the heating works by using waste heat from the engine, so the only additional energy used for heating is that to run the fans. Conversely, air conditioning requires energy to operate. Therefore, using AC will usually use more energy than using heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translating this to answer your question is more complicated. I assume by &quot;how much gas is given off&quot; you mean exhaust gas. Since an engine that is idling is running inefficiently at very low load, I'm not sure whether adding the load of an air conditioner would necessarily increase its fuel consumption, or exhaust output, significantly. Perhaps somebody with a better understanding or car engines could elaborate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there is a noticeable effect, then that effect will be greater from A/C than from heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Simon W" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T19:16:01.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24514" CreationDate="2016-01-11T02:24:59.007" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've come to the right place.  There's a lot that you can do on your own.  Even if all you end up doing is gathering more information for the mechanic who ends up working on the car, they never mind a hint as to where the problems might be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some of the possible causes for the &quot;check engine&quot; light that&#xA;  can be diagnosed at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them.  They can be all over the map, ranging from things as simple as &quot;the gas cap is loose&quot; to &quot;major engine parts have broken off.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where should I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should start with a tool that will help you determine what the singularly unhelpful &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Check_engine_light&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;check engine light&lt;/a&gt; is actually trying to tell you: a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=code%20reader&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;code reader&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A code reader will query the engine computer to see what's on its mind.  The engine computer will respond with a series of codes (from one to an arbitrary number of them), each of which will stand for a short diagnostic message.  Depending on the tool that you use, you might also get a paragraph description and background information to go along with the code.  Some tools will even let you clear out a code to see if it comes back (much like rebooting your PC to see if the problem goes away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tool doesn't give you much more than some letters and numbers, try typing the results into the search box in the upper right of this page.  There is a 100% chance that you are not the first person to have a particular problem and some of those people have come here with the same question.  For example, I've had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/search?q=p0420&quot;&gt;P0420&lt;/a&gt; code on my wife's old Outback.  That lead me to conclude that one of the O2 sensors in the exhaust system was going bad.  A little cash and a fair amount of annoying wrench work and the problem was solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If searching isn't helpful enough, come back with a new question letting us know the make and model of your car, the codes that you've found and any other symptoms that you've observed.  This is a place where car nerds will happily help you for the fun of it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS: I just ran across &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/21587/57&quot;&gt;Lynn's answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/21586/57&quot;&gt;What CAN&amp;#39;T the check engine light tell you?&lt;/a&gt;  Lynn gives provides some links to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia list of OBD codes&lt;/a&gt; as well as some examples of where those codes might lead you in diagnosis.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T23:11:27.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T02:39:45.053" Score="7" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to put in a new gear but I can't remove the pulley from the back to remove the gear. Tried using a 3 arm pulley puller with no luck. Do they make a tool for this? Pulley part is 47026. Thanks, Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14189" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T14:19:33.600" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T14:19:33.600" Title="Craftsman 42&quot; snowblower pulley removal part 47026" Tags="|small-engine|snowblower|craftsman|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24519" CreationDate="2016-01-11T03:03:24.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as though the main screw and washer comes off from the shaft, then you can just pull it off. It is probably splined. If you apply a little PB Blaster on it and let it sit for a half hour, then put two long flat tip screw drivers, one on top, one bottom pointing in opposite directions. With this setup, just gently pry back and forth and the pulley should pop off. It should not be pressed on, so should come off with a little bit of maneuvering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:40:57.773" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:40:57.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T09:50:13.170" Score="5" ViewCount="11300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having issues with my 56 plate Fiat Idea for a while now. It seems to drive normally up to about 2500-3000 rpm where the car lurches a little, as though i shifted down a gear, the MIL light comes on and the car becomes incredibly sluggish. Not quite limp mode but sluggish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My basic knowledge is telling me it could be a blocked EGR valve, and my code reader is reading two error codes relating to turbo intake, which could be indicative of an EGR fault I suppose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered some EGR cleaner that you spray into the intake as the valve is located next to the gearbox linkage so there's no way to easily access it without having 5ft long arms made of elastic; otherwise I would attempt to clean the valve properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's weird is that after a few restarts, the MIL light goes off and the engine functions fine, until I hit around 2500rpm again, where it goes into this near limp mode. And you can push the revs to the limiter in neutral without a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your diagnoses on this problem? Am I wasting my time with the EGR? Also, what is the likelihood of it passing it's MOT in a couple of weeks time? The light is not currently on and if I can avoid going above 60mph, I can make it stay off until the MOT. But will their tests cause it to come on? And does the EGR effect emissions enough to cause it to fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14201" LastEditorUserId="14201" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:53:28.593" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T07:31:15.557" Title="Possible EGR problem on Fiat Idea Multijet 1.3 Diesel" Tags="|diesel|diagnostics|fiat|egr|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24499" CreationDate="2016-01-11T11:01:01.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to the question &quot;What is regenerative braking and why don't we use it?&quot;, we do.  With normal braking, forward momentum of the car is scrubbed off by the brakes by turning them into heat in the brake disc with subsequently dissipates and is lost.  With regenerative braking, instead of the movement of the car being lost to the atmosphere as heat, it is converted to electrical energy and stored in the vehicles battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Volkswagen Bluemotion range of cars (and I'm fairly confident other manufacturers do this but I'm sure Volkswagen do) have a very sophisticated alternator.  When the car detects is it being slowed by pressure being applied to the brakes and the car is still in gear and that clutch is up, the alternator steps up into a mode where it draws significantly more power from the drive.  This drive would normally come from the engine but in a braking situation, it is provided solely through the transmission and is effectively running against the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system is fitted on both petrol and diesel powered Bluemotion equipped Volkswagens.  More information is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/glossary/brake-energy-regeneration&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/technology/bluemotion-technologies/recuperation&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do appreciate that this isn't quite on the same scale as the F1 cars use but it is a form of regenerative braking and it is in use on the public roads today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:01:01.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T11:15:22.873" Score="7" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 gmc envoy xl it has been running fine..drove it all day. Went home 4 hrs later it will not start.. It acts like it is dead but everything from the lights to the heat works fine..I mean it doesn't make a noise no nothing..it has a new alternator and new battery.. But if it's my starter shouldn't I hear a noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14203" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:38:26.803" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:22:40.347" Title="My car will not start after being driven fine" Tags="|starting|gmc|envoy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16574" CreationDate="2016-01-11T11:21:19.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally waiting about an hour with will be necessary before the unit will offer you another chance to enter the code. Early &lt;strong&gt;Ford&lt;/strong&gt; and Philips radios can make you wait several hours and it's simply a case of leaving the radio on untouched for as long as it takes for the display to change, indicating that it's ready to take the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first be sure that you have the correct code. You can recalculate your code to verify. just see this video :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KfNMuFFWpw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KfNMuFFWpw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14202" LastEditorUserId="14202" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:27:27.230" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:27:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24522" CreationDate="2016-01-11T11:22:42.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the turbo is sometimes over-boosting, which is being detected by the engine MAP sensor.  The way that the engine ECU can control this over-boost to avoid engine damage is by limiting the amount of fuel injected into the engine, which would of course cause a sudden drop in power.  The over-boost could be being caused by a seized turbo waste gate.  If you are able to, check that the waste gate mechanism on the turbo is not seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:22:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T12:46:17.157" Score="6" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Form the past days my car is having an issue when I turn the steering wheel (left to right) at the start point.and the same sound (grinding type) dissapear while I am on the continuous run.just a week ago I have replaced the new alloy wheel and tyre of car, from then to now I am getting the same sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;one more thing the earlier alloy wheel was 16 in  and the new one which I replaced is 17 inch with the tyre. does it matters to the steering wheel sound..?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14205" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:21:40.293" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:32:03.157" Title="Grinding type sound in steering wheel of a 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer EX" Tags="|noise|steering|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24530" CreationDate="2016-01-11T14:56:05.963" Score="6" ViewCount="2149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taking a look at a 2004 Ford Escape with 100k miles yesterday because it was infrequently stuttering, and throwing a &quot;cylinder 5 misfiring&quot; error code that would come on and go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured it was a good idea to change the spark plugs--since it was a relatively cheap procedure, and the owner had never done that anyway--then go from there. I was a little disappointed to find that it was more involved than the several cars I had replaced in the past. I'm by no means a mechanic, but I feel comfortable saying that I know more, and have done more, than the average person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, as I was reluctantly deciding on how to get the intake manifold off, I noticed this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u16Ti.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u16Ti.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disconnected hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2zzK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2zzK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My buddy says it's the crankcase ventilation hose. I decided to stick it back on, get a zip tie to tighten it as best I can, and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question here is: Does that seem like it could be the source of the problem? And if the symptoms don't show up again, should it be reasonable to think it's fixed? (I mean, overlooking the fact that it's over 100k and could use a tune up anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14208" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T15:04:35.777" Title="Can a crankcase venthilator hose being off cause misfiring?" Tags="|ford|misfire|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24529" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:04:35.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the air that is passed through the crankcase ventilation system is metered before it enters the ventilation system.  If the pipe is off, un-metered air will be allowed in, which will cause a weak mixture and therefore possible misfiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T15:04:35.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:18:58.637" Score="9" ViewCount="2734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a car with two worn rear tyres (still legal, but between 3 - 4mm of tread left, so will need replacing soonish) and two brand new (but cheap off brand) tyres on the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what I should do when I replace the rear tyres, should I put the new tyres on the front and move the almost new (but off brand) tyres to the rear? I presume that branded tyres would give better economy and road noise being on the front of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14209" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:22:45.250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T08:05:12.113" Title="Cheap tyres on rear of car?" Tags="|tires|volvo|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18595" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:24:19.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I replaced the half shaft and found out that wasn't it (although, for reference, the half shaft ended up being really easy to change. Was able to do it without even removing the wheel bearing). Even though it seemed full, &lt;strong&gt;I just added some differential fluid and the noise seemed to subside&lt;/strong&gt;. I will be changing the fluid entirely in the future and looking for any metal shavings to decide if there is any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T15:24:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24514" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:41:10.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may have mistaken a service interval indicator for a check engine light. Modern cars will ask to be serviced at regular intervals, even if no fault exists. There indicators can usually be reset the but procedure is usually manufacturer specific. A check engine light is something else and generally indicates that a fault has been logged by the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T15:41:10.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T15:47:05.690" Score="3" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;My antifreeze is leaking and my ECT sensor is wet. There is also smoke coming from the hose that's for the reservoir overload. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14211" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T16:23:59.973" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:23:59.973" Title="Chevy Cavalier 2002 2.2L" Tags="|chevrolet|sensor|cavalier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18595" CreationDate="2016-01-11T16:24:28.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem was when i heard clicking noises coming from my diff, it ended up being the pinion gearing. It was a tooth chipped off. So you should check that out when ya get a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:24:28.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2016-01-11T16:34:53.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience, having used cheap tires myself once, I'd say don't put them on the rear. &#xA;If you use them on the front, the car won't have as much breaking power and might tend to under steer. Both of these things can be compensated with a more defensive driving style. If the car starts to under steer you'll feel it and slow down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rear tires don't have good traction, you'll have over steer problems which, unlike under steer, you won't feel it until it's too late and you've spun out off control. This has happened to me even at speeds as low as 15 kmh on a wet roundabout, but also at higher speeds exiting the highway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summation, if you use cheap tires on the rear be triple careful on every turn, and if you feel the car handles weird change then to the front asap. If the car has trouble stopping or cornering after that, switch to proper tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:34:53.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24499" CreationDate="2016-01-11T16:37:14.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regenerative braking is a system that stores the energy that instead would be lost to heat in the brakes. While these systems sound great they come with a whole host of their own problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before even getting into the energy storage and generation the actual service brakes become very complicated. For regenerative braking to work properly the brakes can't come on while regenerative brakes are doing their thing. Further regenerative brakes only work at high speed and loose their effectiveness as you slow down. This necessitates a transition where at high speed the regenerative brakes slow you down and the regular brakes don't and as you slow down the regenerative brakes do less and less and the regular brakes will finally bring you to a stop. The system that makes the brake pedal feel normal while the regular brakes do nothing and then transition you into regular braking smoothly with you noticing that a switch happened is very complicated and very difficult to get perfect. Toyota had problems with this system in the Prius where breaking was lost for a half second during the transition making people feel very uncomfortable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Energy storage is a huge problem. Everything sounds great in hybrids, just charge the batteries, where in reality the amount of energy that the car generates during a stop is way more than the batteries can actually absorb. If the stop is rapid then the problem is further amplified. A system that @BobCross mentioned is the KERS. By combining a motor/generator to the flywheel the extra regenerative energy that can't go directly into the batteries is used to spin up the flywheel. Then over time the energy is then converted to electricity to charge the batteries. These systems are very heavy and expensive. Another systems is using super capacitors. The extra energy is dumped into the super caps. The problem is that when the energy is stored in the capacitors it is not super useful without conditioning. Voltage in capacitors drops very rapidly. If storing a high voltage then a system is needed to step the voltage down to something useful. If storing no more voltage than the battery then a system is needed to step the voltage up to something useful. Super capacitors are also rather expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrids and electric cars have built in electric systems to take advantage of the regenerative braking. All of these problems are further amplified with straight gasoline engines. A new system needs installed, can't leverage something existing, to provide regenerative braking adding to the expense. It becomes hard to sell someone on a system that adds $5k to the price of a car that gets better fuel economy in the city but suffers on the highway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford is developing a system where a positive displacement pump charges a hydraulic accumulator as you come to a stop. When taking off again the fluid pressure is sent is reverse through the pump to turn it into a motor to assist starting from a stop. The system is meant for large trucks where the size of the system is not too much of a burden. Also the system is loud and prone to leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T16:37:14.407" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2016-01-11T17:01:06.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my tires will need replacing soon as well as it is almost at the legal limit. I have a good amount of tread left on my front two tires. I am going to replace all four tires as soon as the worst one is due for a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to clarify that you should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;never replace only one tire on an axle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you must always replace them in pairs at least otherwise you could be decreasing the safety of anyone in the car, even if you are driving cautiously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I think that you should try to replace all four tires with four mid-high end tires at the same time if you can possibly afford it. This may sound strange to hear given that two of your tires are still fairly new, but I have found that in general cars tend to handle much better on identical rubber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only this, using four identical tires can have a surprisingly positive effect on your fuel consumption. This will be especially noticeable for you as your tires are probably not exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final point I would add is that good quality rubber is going to give you more grip, a much better (and safer) driving experience even if it is going to cost you a little bit more money. It is well worth the extra in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottom Line&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;replace all four tires&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Otherwise, get two good quality tires now and buy two more (that match) as soon as you can. Drive carefully in the mean time. Don't rush out and buy four cheap tires, it is just not worth it in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T22:23:29.057" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:23:29.057" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12108" CreationDate="2016-01-11T17:15:48.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Upstate New York, we have 4 Seasons Winter, Winter, Winter, and Summer. Silicon rubber dressing WORKS (such as Armor All!!!!), it is thick, use poly cloth to apply sparingly to weather strip where door and window freezes. Do 3 or 4 times a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14215" LastEditorUserId="14215" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:34:19.313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:34:19.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24545" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:32:19.193" Score="15" ViewCount="16713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a video by Eric the Car Guy on changing a CV boot.  In it he mentioned that there are two different types of grease, for inner and outer CV joints, which can be identified by the colour of the grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to him &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-S-ofMoWsr0?t=15m36s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;inner joint grease is yellow&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-S-ofMoWsr0?t=5m43s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the outer grease is green&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true for all axles or just for some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't sell boot kits in my country. So I have to buy the grease separately and I want to make sure I get the right one. If it matters it's for a 99 Nissan Almera which is similar to the Sentra sold in the states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 12/1/16&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_12?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&amp;amp;field-keywords=cv%20joint%20grease&amp;amp;sprefix=CV%20joint%20gre%2Caps%2C403&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;search of amazon&lt;/a&gt; doesn't turn up anything other that CV and CV-2 grease and then there is one labelled &quot;w/Moly&quot;.  But nothing labelled inner or outer grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T14:48:17.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:48:17.073" Title="Are there different greases for inner and outer CV joints?" Tags="|axle|grease|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2016-01-11T18:45:23.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But if it's my starter shouldn't I hear a noise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if the starter solenoid is stuck. This is the piece of metal that connects the circuit and allows the starter motor to receive power. It's usually pulled into place magnetically, thereby connecting two terminals and powering the motor. When solenoids age, they tend to stick, or, in some cases, physically break. Once the bridge no longer works, no power can get to the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0ucw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0ucw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test it, you can temporarily realign the solenoid by hitting it with a hammer a few times and see if it starts after that. Disclaimer: Don't go around hitting random parts of your car with a hammer, if you aren't sure which one is the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hammer trick does resolve the issue, it's likely only a temporary fix. Once a solenoid begins to act like this, it's probably going to give a repeat performance sometime in the future. If it sounds like I learned this lesson the hard way, well... yeah. Just assume that this may be the last time the car starts with this solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: Sometimes solenoids are attached and sold as one piece with the starter, other times they are separate. My Jeep is one piece; my lawn tractor is separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T22:22:40.347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:22:40.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24543" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:00:25.667" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;True for some axles. Given the different bearing designs between the inner and out CV joint. The CV joints will include the required grease when purchased. The color depends more on the manufacturer than anything. There are aftermarket (read: Valvoline, Castrol, etc) greases that can be used in the inner and outer cv joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T19:00:25.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:05:08.077" Score="5" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you help me Unlock Toyota Raum 2003 Radio to its normal state?&#xA;My battery ran flat, resetting my radio. I am getting some method on the internet about pressing the tuning Up and 1 buttons, but there is no 1 button on the new design Raums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14220" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T19:41:30.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T22:53:28.773" Title="Toyota Raum Radio memory loss" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24551" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:12:01.063" Score="11" ViewCount="1537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that diesel engines have become much more efficient at controlling emissions over the last couple decades. Various websites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/diesel-fuel-better-environment.htm&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; describe the technological improvements that have brought this about, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct injection controlled by computers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Particulate filters to reduce soot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catalytic converters that reduce other pollutants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improvements to diesel fuel itself such as ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with the tendency for diesels to be more fuel efficient than similarly-sized gasoline engines (according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/di_diesels.shtml&quot;&gt;fueleconomy.gov&lt;/a&gt;, they can get 20-35% more distance out of one gallon of fuel) and that they are required to meet the same emissions standards as gas, they must be at least comparable to gasoline engines on total emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maryngroup.com/component/k2/item/218-cleaning-the-air-are-diesel-engines-worse-than-gas&quot;&gt;there is still a public perception&lt;/a&gt;, at least in the United States, that diesels are dirty, even if we accept that they might be more fuel efficient. This is due in large part to the history of diesel where we used to see diesel trucks belching out soot on the highways and leaving black streaks behind the exhaust pipe. Many of these trucks are still on the road, so they have not seen much of the new technology that has improved this situation. I'm sure the attention drawn to the Volkswagen emissions scandal is not helping any either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://news.berkeley.edu/2012/10/22/diesel-vs-gas-contributing-to-smog/&quot;&gt;My research&lt;/a&gt; is also suggesting that, in spite of the technological advances, diesel still produces up to 15 times as much emissions per liter burned than gasoline. This is a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; difference and quickly eats up the 35% maximum fuel efficiency boost you get from using diesel. &lt;a href=&quot;https://news.stanford.edu/pr/02/jacobsonJGR1023.html&quot;&gt;A slightly older study&lt;/a&gt; seems to suggest that, even under the stricter emissions guidelines, diesel contributes more to global warming than gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to run against the idea that diesels are cleaner overall. Though they are hard to compare since different pollutants are allowed to escape into the atmosphere, total effect on global warming is a good measure. So how are diesels cleaner than gasoline engines? Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a secondary question, why aren't diesels used in electric hybrids as generators instead of gas? It seems that would be the perfect place for them since generators run at a constant speed most of the time, so emissions controls could be tuned to specific RPM. Note that I am excluding hybrid vehicles where both the electric and diesel engines are connected to the drive train. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1080282_diesel-hybrids-why-they-dont-make-as-much-sense-as-you-think&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; outlines why those are not necessarily the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:03:33.130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T14:41:46.560" Title="How are diesel engines better for the environment than gasoline?" Tags="|diesel|emissions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24548" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:19:44.683" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T19:19:44.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T19:19:44.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24549" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:19:44.683" Score="0" Body="Mid-sized car model manufactured by Nissan since 1981." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T01:21:07.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:21:07.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:33:15.143" Score="6" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 99 Opel Astra and I have noticed a clicking noise in it. I opened the bonnet and it sounds like it may be coming from the timing belt! I really don't know though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy i bought it off says he got the timing belt done around 5000 miles ago. It passed its National Car Test last month and has had a recent full service. The guy I bought it off says that he never experienced this noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It literally only happens when driving. If I have the car on, but not moving it does not happen. It only happens when pressing the accelerator and foot off the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14221" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:49:58.693" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:49:58.693" Title="Clicking noise in Opel Astra" Tags="|belt|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24547" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:47:19.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;They aren't better for the environment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But efficiency is often confused with emissions. The average person would think that because diesel engines are more efficient and burn less fuel, they must be less harmful to the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think few can be more authoritative than the folks at Bosch on why diesel engines are so prevalent (emphasis my own)¹:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No other internal-combustion engine is as widely used as the diesel engine. This is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;primarily&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; due to its &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;high degree of efficiency&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;resulting fuel economy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same chapter goes on to highlight the emissions challenges associated with diesels. It's wrong to say that it's a cleaner fuel than gasoline (emphasis own):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Improving emission characteristics will continue to be a major challenge&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for diesel-engine developers in the future. Consequently, further innovations can be expected in the area of exhaust-gas treatment in years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why are they so commonplace?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Because less fuel consumption = less cost.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in most societies, reducing cost is considered a good thing. It all boils down to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/moolah&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;moolah&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/3658039809&quot;&gt;Diesel Engine Management: Systems and Components&lt;/a&gt; - Areas of use for diesel engines: Suitability criteria, page 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T20:11:06.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T20:11:06.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:51:06.000" Score="-1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  a 2007 town / country that blows cold air when at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14225" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:17:30.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T06:07:29.360" Title="Heater blows cold at idle 2007 town / country" Tags="|chrysler|heater|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:15:49.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On a FWD car always have the best tyres on the front.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres on the front are going to do &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the steering, handle &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the acceleration forces and &lt;em&gt;80%&lt;/em&gt; of the braking. I would definitely want my best tyres for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any worries about bad tyres on the back causing over-steer are unfounded unless they are in terrible condition and you drive like a lunatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't skimp on tyres, I think they're probably the most important part of the car. They're the only thing connecting you to the road. So if you can afford it, then get 4 decent tyres... but if you can't afford it then put the decent ones on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is an argument that having the better tyres on the rear will help prevent over-steer and a spin due to aquaplaning. This argument has some merit, but only if you come into the &lt;code&gt;driving like a lunatic&lt;/code&gt; category that I mentioned above. The video from michelin at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa9hzcjdi5Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa9hzcjdi5Q&lt;/a&gt; is an example. If you drive like the guy in that video then you get what you deserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the co-driver has to encourage him to lose control;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Bring out the Corvette driver in you and hammer down&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Go baby go&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Keep going, go go go go go&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Gotta get to where the rear tyres start to lose grip&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;keep going, keep going, keep going, keep going&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Now break hard, I want you to stand on that brake pedal&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Stay on it, stay on it&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerating to a high speed on a very, very, very wet surface and then performing an emergency stop all while negotiating a tight bend is not a realistic scenario at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14227" LastEditorUserId="14227" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:45:01.487" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:45:01.487" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24550" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:21:03.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;happens when driving and even if have car on but not moving it does&#xA;  not happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems unlikely that if the noise is even produced when the car is in motion, you'd be able to narrow it down to something inside of the engine compartment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a U-joint (universal joint) with a bad bearings. If it increases &#xA;with RPMs, and seems to come from the underside of the car, it could be the joint where the driveshaft connects to the tranmission, or one of the other U-joins where the driveshaft connects to the next segment of shaft.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98mkq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98mkq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;There's an X-shaped joint inside of there. each of the four sides is packed with ball bearings and grease. Over time, that grease can escape, the bearings can seize, and the joint can bounce around amongst the remaining bearings resulting in a clicking sound on each rotation. If this is the case, you should be able to observe the movement happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test out the u-joints, put the car in neutral. Grab ahold of the drive shaft at the joint, and turn it. There should be no play in the linkage; the shaft should rotate smoothly without moving back and forth inside of the bearing. If there is play, the u-joint needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:21:03.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24563" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:39:31.087" Score="66" ViewCount="813781" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a car is topped up with oil, it clear to most people that you are supposed to fill it to the recommended amount as specified by the manufacturer (normally on a dip stick). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly are all of the disadvantages to running an engine when the oil becomes too low?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T22:42:49.510" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:10:24.393" Title="What actually happens when there is not enough oil in a car engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|engine-theory|service|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:49:30.660" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most engines, when you fill the oil, it drains into a reservoir on the bottom of the engine known as the oil pan.  The tube for the dipstick goes right down into this reservoir to measure the level of the oil.  The other important item located in this reservoir is the pick-up tube for the oil pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the pick-up tube for the pump stays under the oil level, then the answer to your question is &quot;not much&quot;.  You might loose a little cooling ability because of the reduced volume of oil, but everything will work correctly, and you won't see any warnings because your &lt;em&gt;oil pressure&lt;/em&gt; will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in most cars, the oil warning light is triggered by a drop in oil pressure, which can be caused by your oil level being low.  For this to happen you're oil has to be VERY low.  I've been 2 quarts/liters low before and only saw my oil light come on when taking a corner at a fast speed.  The little oil left in the oil pan would slosh to the side, and the pickup tube would go dry, and pressure was lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should NEVER drive a car if the oil light is on or if oil pressure is not normal, but running low on oil isn't going to hurt until it gets &lt;em&gt;too low&lt;/em&gt;.  Once you loose oil pressure, damage can be close behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine oil is used for lubrication and cooling, and a drop in pressure means that oil isn't going to get everywhere it needs to be, or at the very least, it's not going to cycle through fast enough and it will start to overheat and break down which will also cause a loss of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T22:13:27.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:13:27.013" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:08:12.747" Score="8" ViewCount="1807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 2004 sv650s Suzuki when I turn the key on the fuel pump does not come on and the CHECK light comes on on the dash. All the lights come on and the starter button does not work.All the fuses are good. Any ideas thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T22:28:03.233" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:31:47.433" Title="Suzuki 2004 sv650s wiring" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|fuel-system|suzuki|sv650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:18:38.770" Score="8" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just going into my final year of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechatronics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mechatronics engineering&lt;/a&gt;, and as a project for my spare time I am looking to convert a car to fully electric drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I am also toying with the idea of scratch building a small go-cart like vehicle, but this would require a whole lot more mechanical engineering, which I am not as well versed in as the electrical side of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to convert a car instead of scratch building, there are obviously things in the car to choose for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally low mass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road legal chassis and interior&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good space for batteries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General roadworthy-ness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't really know what type of car, or even how to look for a car which fits these criteria. Is anyone able to suggest what may be a good vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do potentially have access to a 1992 Corolla H/B manual for reasonably cheap, just a little bit of panel beating required. Would this make an adequate choice, or is there something about it (and other similar vehicles) which make it a bad choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just for slightly more context, I live in New Zealand, so by legal I obviously am referring to local laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14192" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T21:29:15.190" Title="Good car for full electric conversion" Tags="|electrical|conversion|chassis|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24585" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:31:12.833" Score="7" ViewCount="7454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an engine temperature gauge on the dashboard of my car (as most people do), but if for &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil&quot;&gt;some reason&lt;/a&gt; the engine temperature is caused to increase (due to a lack of cooling or what have you), the car will break down and the engine needs time to cool down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars have overheated, on Top Gear for example, many times which has always caused them to break down (and often smoke is produced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What actually happens inside the engine to cause it to function incorrectly at higher temperatures?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea that I had was that the engine coolant will reduce in viscosity. How this makes the engine break down I still have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T08:39:54.063" Title="How exactly does an increase in engine temperature cause a car to breakdown?" Tags="|engine|oil|overheating|engine-theory|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24559" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:41:07.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another issue is that also as the temperature increases, the metal components also slightly increase in size. How much this effects the ability to function I'm not sure, as the increase is still small while the temperature increase is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the temperature warning doesn't so much warn you that things are too hot, but rather that the coolant is not acting sufficiently at taking the heat away from the engine. If the temperature reaches 100 degrees centigrade, then there is actually minimal water in the system, but rather steam. This steam is substantially less effective at heat transfer than liquid water. You therefore get a positive feedback cycle, and this easily runs away on you and the engine gets to extreme temperatures, and this is when the damage is caused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question more asks what does damage the engine. I suspect it is a combination of the reduction in viscosity resulting in less lubrication, and also the slight swelling - which at 200 degrees is more of a noticeable increase. Furthermore at that temperature there could be some alterations of the chemical properties of your coolants and fuels, which cause differing effects than what the engine was designed for. Also at high temperatures your rubber/plastic seals can begin to deform and denature, reducing the effectiveness of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14192" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:41:07.200" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:50:20.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting your best tires up front is the exact opposite of what every tire shop I've ever been to in the US will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should not put your best tires in the front&lt;/strong&gt; unless you never drive in adverse conditions like rain or snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3121/6-common-tire-myths-debunked-10031440/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This popular mechanics article&lt;/a&gt; sums it up pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The truth: Rear tires provide stability, and without stability, steering or braking on a wet or even damp surface might cause a spin. If you have new tires up front, they will easily disperse water while the half-worn rears will go surfing: The water will literally lift the worn rear tires off the road. If you're in a slight corner or on a crowned road, the car will spin out so fast you won't be able to say, &quot;Oh, fudge!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;even if&quot; to this one. Whether you own a front-, rear- or all-wheel-drive car, truck, or SUV, the tires with the most tread go on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably get better braking by putting your best tires up front. But I drive in the wet way more times than I have to slam on my brakes to stop short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ajforeignauto.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=155&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Found a reference&lt;/a&gt; that summed up what different tire manufacturers say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goodyear:&lt;/strong&gt; www.goodyeartires.com “When you select a pair of replacement tires in the same size and construction as those on the car, we recommend you put them on the rear axle.“&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridgestone/Firestone:&lt;/strong&gt; www.tiresafety.com from the Replacement Manual: “Winter tires are best applied to all vehicle positions. If winter tires are applied to the front axle of any vehicle, they must also be installed on the rear. Do not apply winter tires to only the front axle --- this applies to all passenger cars and light trucks, including front wheel drive, 4x4 and all-wheel drive vehicles.“&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dunlap:&lt;/strong&gt; www.dunloptires.com “When you select a pair of replacement tires in the same size and construction as those on the car, we recommend you put them on the rear axle.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Michelin:&lt;/strong&gt; www.michelinman.com “A pair of new tires should go in back. See video.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BF Goodrich:&lt;/strong&gt; www.bfgoodrichtires.com “REPLACEMENT OF TWO (2) TIRES It is recommended that all four (4) tires are replaced at the same time. However, whenever only two tires are replaced, the new ones should be put on the rear. The new tires, with deeper tread, may provide better grip and water evacuation in wet driving conditions.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more just google: 'worn tires front or back'. The links in the reference are out of date but cross referencing suggests their positions havent changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also interesting that there appears to be a liability issue to put them on the front. So one could believe that everyone's picked the wrong side of the tradeoffs and they're just covering their asses. I wouldn't but the idea's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14232" LastEditorUserId="14232" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:31:28.313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:31:28.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24557" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:13:44.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have 4 things to check to start figuring your issue out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your TPS&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull codes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check fuses&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check hot wire of the fuel pump with a multimeter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pulling Suzuki Fuel System Codes or Entering Dealer Mode on a post-2001 Suzuki Motorcycle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put your bike into what is called 'dealer mode' to get data and information regarding what might be the issue you are having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's relatively limited when compared to OBDII but sometimes you can get some excellent troubleshooting breadcrumbs by doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beneath your rear seat you will see a white connector with a rubber cover over it.  There are 4 total connections and two blanks on the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's the best pic I could find of the connector&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SaEHP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SaEHP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Make sure your ignition is off when perform this procedure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have located it you will put a wire loop between two of the connections with a bit of wire.  You will connect two of the 4 active connections in the connector.  The two that you want are side by side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to loop them together with a piece of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCbGs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCbGs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the connector wit the wire loop inserted into the two 'active' side by side connections within the white connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmH3o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmH3o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you can turn on your ignition.  Look at your dash and see if you have any codes that reveal themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a code c00, there are no codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see the codes in the bottom right hand corner of your display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wH09.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wH09.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the chart to identify what the codes mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a code for a TOS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G3ekJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G3ekJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Correction from my comments&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Your model year &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;does have a tip over sensor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like.  It's on the front of your battery.  Facing the front of your motorcycle. Ensure it's rubber slot is mounted properly to the front of your battery holder where there is a tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for my misinformed comment, I believed the TOS didn't arrive until 2005. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Notice the up arrow stamped into it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVHqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aVHqw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have codes and you feel that is the issue, feel free to come back to this thread and I can add/modify additional information for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T03:31:47.433" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:31:47.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:15:29.940" Score="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine oil does much more for an engine than lubricate. It provides cooling, cleaning, and a bunch of other chores. You already know engine function is degraded when you run out of oil. Let's see if we can run it down to make more sense for you how it happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say, for lack of argument, your engine is running with very little to no oil. The engine oil light is on as the engine is running. Antifreeze is up to snuff, but that won't stop overheating for too long. Here is what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As whatever limited oil is in the engine is pushed around, it becomes hotter and hotter. It becomes hotter because the oil isn't allowed enough time to cool down a little before it is required to go back into the engine and do its thing. As this happens, the oil will wear out faster. Fully synthetic oil will last longer than dino (refined) oil, but it will suffer defeat sooner or later as well. Several reactions happen to the oil, to include oxidation, thermal degradation, and compressive heating. Mind you, all of these things are created under normal use conditions (and thus the reason we change oils when we should), but under extreme conditions as you've suggested, &lt;em&gt;it all happens much faster&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great image which describes what happens from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/475/oil-breakdown&quot;&gt;Machinery Lubrication website&lt;/a&gt; -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTvDl.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTvDl.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this breakdown creates the regular: tar; sludge; varnish; soot; etc. All of these things start depositing on the internals of your engine, such as the rings, bearings, cylinder walls ... anywhere oil would normally flow. If you go back to your chemistry teachings, you'll probably remember that a large portion of oil is carbon. All of the previously mentioned nasty substances are actually a carbon byproducts. As these carbon substances continue to deposit, any part which comes in contact with them gets wear on them as carbon can become quite hard and/or sticky under the right circumstances. This starts creating more friction on these parts. So now instead of cooling/lubricating/cleaning, the oil has broken down is now heating (due to more friction), creating deposits, and making the engine a &lt;em&gt;really filthy place&lt;/em&gt;. You should realize it is now doing &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; it was originally meant to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every machined surface within the engine is susceptible to the increased wear. As the oil continues to break down at an ever increasing rate, the temperature inside the engine on these machines surfaces continue to get hotter and hotter. Wear occurs faster and faster until something gives. Most of the times in these situations, the first thing to go is a rod or main bearing. If the backside of the rod bearing is strong enough when this happens, you can throw a rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throwing a rod is basically where the friction on the bearing at the rod journal of the crankshaft is strong enough to overcome the strength of the rod itself and it has a catastrophic plastic deformation of the metal. The piston can go down the bore and will not return. It can go out the bottom and then gets flung around inside of the oil pan, or the rod itself will break and force itself and/or the piston out the side of the engine block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, there is no coming back from it (in most cases). The engine is done and will need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you continue to run the engine with very low oil, &lt;em&gt;destruction will occur&lt;/em&gt; ... and no ... I'm not being melodramatic about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Here are a couple of videos which describe what happens when you don't change the oil in your vehicle. This is what happens with oil when there isn't enough of it ... with lack of oil, it doesn't take 130k miles to look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KC-SxrsgEwo&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/KC-SxrsgEwo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oIkxlWpJ6bk&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/oIkxlWpJ6bk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T13:31:02.123" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T13:31:02.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24494" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:22:40.780" Score="16" Body="&lt;h2&gt;I think I have an answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But bear in mind that this is my assessment with the limited information at my disposal.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll walk through my reasoning here. If someone finds a flaw in my logic then I'm all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here is a summary of your data&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;| Condition   | LTFT1 | LTFT2 | STFT1 | STFT2 |&#xA;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;| Cold start  | - 19% | - 11% |  ---  |  ---  |&#xA;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;| Idle        | -  8% | -  2% |    0% |    0% |&#xA;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;| &amp;lt; 3500 RPM  | - 14% | -  4% | ­­≈  0% | ≈  0% |&#xA;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;| &amp;gt; 3500 RPM  | -  1% | +  1% | + 11% | + 12% |&#xA;+-------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First, let's clear some misconceptions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;STFT's between two banks are almost identical and are almost always positive, meaning ECU is adjusting for a lean condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't take your STFT's to be a measure of system health&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STFT's are not meant to stay positive forever. They are usually designed to compensate for instantaneous changes. At steady load &amp;amp; RPM, the values should go back to zero quite soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this I'm not going to worry too much about the STFT numbers reported.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MAF sensors are dirty and one side is reading low values causing the rich condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A dirty MAF sensor would under-estimate the air flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the fuel trim would have to be positive to compensate for a lean condition, not a rich one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I worry sometime in the future a catastrophic failure may happen, an injector may leak a lot and cause hydrolock or some other issue may happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running lean is more of a concern than running rich, so impending doom is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrolock is not going to happen due negative fuel trims either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Observations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any proposed theory should be able to explain the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Negative LTFT's with the engine warm, low RPM&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if left uncorrected, the engine would be running too rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common reasons for this include over-reading MAF's, excessive fuel rail pressure and leaky fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how a fresh-from-Bavaria M5 would suffer from any of these. Possible, just not probable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;LTFT's get less negative with increased load/RPM&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the LTFT's were positive at low RPM and tapering towards 0 at higher RPM, I'd tell you without skipping a heartbeat that unmetered air is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the LTFT's are negative at low RPM, you appear to have an issue with air leaking &lt;em&gt;out&lt;/em&gt; after being metered by the MAF's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is a forced-induction beast, it would be readily explained by a post-turbo, post-MAF leak. However, the relative newness of this M5 makes me wonder if this is even remotely possible. This is also why I asked if anything after the turbos had been touched.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what could it be?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's my take.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, widebands are sensitive to exhaust gas pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mean to bore anyone to tears, but according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daytona-sensors.com/download/Bosch_LSU4.pdf&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10.6 Pressure dependency of the sensor signal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A pressure change of the measured gas gives a deviation of the sensor output signal of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ip(P) = Ip(P0) * P/(k+P) * (k+P0)/P0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to simulate the two scenarios (for pressures &gt; 1 bar):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if pressure is lower than expected, the measured current reduces, resulting in a leaner-than-reality reading&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if pressure is higher than expected, the measured current increases, resulting in a richer-than-reality reading&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of this, I'd say &lt;strong&gt;the aftermarket exhaust may be the root cause&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about this exhaust in terms of brand, specifications or cost, but if it has a larger backpressure than the factory setup at idle, it is a plausible explanation for Observation 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As for Observation 2, at higher loads the fuel management is designed to target a richer AFR, so the larger pressure drop may be less of an issue here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to verify this is the root cause&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be obvious: go back to the factory exhaust and see what happens to the fuel trims! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see the LTFT's go back to normal at warm idle, the root cause would be confirmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T12:36:23.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T12:36:23.387" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:27:08.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot speak to local New Zealand laws, but here in the USA a common vehicle for EV conversion is the Chevrolet S10/Colorado and other small pickups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of light weight, plenty of space for batteries, and a relatively simple design make these cars ideal. Moreover, since they have been around forever they are easy to find and cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diyelectriccar.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all sorts of resources&lt;/a&gt; from people who have already made the mistakes, so you don't have to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="12132" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T18:14:51.773" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T18:14:51.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24567" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:31:50.387" Score="20" ViewCount="122926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand roughly &lt;a href=&quot;http://animagraffs.com/how-a-car-engine-works/&quot;&gt;how an engine works&lt;/a&gt; and that there is a crankshaft which is able to turn the flywheel using internal combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just realised that I have got absolutely no idea how the kinetic (movement) energy of the crankshaft is able to make the wheels go round and also vary the speed of the wheels based on the drivers' input. I know that somewhere there is a clutch, a gearbox and a &quot;diff&quot; that allows the wheels to turn at different speeds (going round a corner for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do all these things run off of the flywheel?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly does the flywheel do and what is it connected to other than the crankshaft?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How is it connected to these other things?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T08:09:00.873" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T22:40:36.933" Title="What does a flywheel do and what is it connected to?" Tags="|engine|clutch|engine-theory|crankshaft|flywheel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24566" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:42:18.337" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flywheel serves four main purposes (in most vehicles): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides mass for rotational inertia to keep the engine in motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is specifically weighted to provide balance for the crankshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a means to get the engine started (starter ring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a connection for power transfer between the engine and transmission (along with the clutch it also provides a means to interrupt the power flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another such item, like unto a flywheel is a flexplate. This is a thin plate which connects the engine to a torque converter in automatic transmissions. While it provides the starting, connection, and balance of a flywheel, it alone does not have enough mass to provide the rotational inertia. In this case, the torque converter provides this for the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T22:19:53.827" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:19:53.827" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:48:38.800" Score="3" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've changed the timing chain because it jumped time in my 2004 Chevy Malibu 2.2 liter.  I've also changed the ignition module, crank sensor and coil pack, but it still won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14234" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T02:39:52.287" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T18:42:59.920" Title="2004 Chevy Malibu won't start after changing timing chain, crank sensor and ignition module and coil pack" Tags="|chevrolet|starting|malibu|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:50:11.177" Score="17" ViewCount="41786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was building a mount for my custom bobber. My 1/4&quot; carbide drill bit broke off into 3/4&quot; plate of steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I remove it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvoEG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvoEG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T02:41:52.483" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:13:27.897" Title="How do I remove a broken drill bit from metal?" Tags="|tools|metal|drillbit|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24456" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:51:51.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By changing the flow of electricity through the magnetic fluid in the dampers, the viscosity of the fluid is changed. As the viscosity is changed, it becomes harder or easier for the suspension to be compressed, thereby allowing the suspension characteristics to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is controlled with an electric current, it can be changed hundreds of times per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T23:51:51.763" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2016-01-11T23:53:21.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem too the first time I changed brake pads on my 99 Plymouth brezee. I had the rotors turned and installed new pads on front wheels, but I got a clicking noise I did not have before. Inner pads can go in either left or right Wheel, but outer pads have a different outer &quot;hook&quot; on the pad body that grabs on to the caliper frame. It has a notch with a bottom &quot;hook&quot; which keeps the pad from moving up. You have to make sure this notch is on the top side of the installed pad. If you install it on the bottom the pad will lift up when you brake and then go back down quikly and then up and down again and again. to be more clear usually this notch is in the same side as the wear sensor. If your wear sensor is in the bottom, there is your culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14235" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T23:53:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2016-01-12T00:19:09.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, with a heavy duty screw/bolt extractor. If that does not work, here is a helpful walk through I recently came across about how to remove a broken but from an engine block:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-4-Piece-Screw-Extractor-Set/50217437&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://m.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-4-Piece-Screw-Extractor-Set/50217437&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-remove-a-broken-bolt-without-losing-your-m-1702042621&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-remove-a-broken-bolt-without-losing-your-m-1702042621&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="12132" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T00:26:35.230" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T00:26:35.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:12:37.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The entire lubrication system for the engine fails, leading to scratching of the cylinders and the barrels, after which point they dont run smoothly and degrade much faster. the pistons are made of aluminium and the cylinders have a special tough glassy coating so they screatch very easily and when the engine is too hot the aluminium deforms and heats in a vicious circle until they lock up or it overheats and smokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14239" LastEditorUserId="14239" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T06:56:59.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T06:56:59.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24568" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:27:44.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is much to be said here;  You first should have done an electrical connection &lt;strong&gt;probe test&lt;/strong&gt; to know if your &lt;strong&gt;fuel pump&lt;/strong&gt; is operating, your &lt;strong&gt;sparks&lt;/strong&gt; are sparking, your &lt;strong&gt;coil is sparking&lt;/strong&gt;, your &lt;strong&gt;injectors are igniting&lt;/strong&gt;, your distributor components are working, == the vehicle &lt;strong&gt;timing is correct&lt;/strong&gt;, your &lt;strong&gt;starter&lt;/strong&gt; is kicking, your &lt;strong&gt;Fuel Injection Main Relay&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Coolant Temperature Sensor&lt;/strong&gt;, or the &lt;strong&gt;O2 Sensor&lt;/strong&gt;.  I know it's confusing and sounds like a lot of work but a couple of hours could save you a couple of hundred.  do yourself a favor!  buy a cheap $35. - $50. OBD Scanner before you do anything else.  Plug it in and start from there.  In the meantime watch the following video.  I picked it out specifically for you.   I hope it helps.  Good Luck !   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L4nB2NdA0U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L4nB2NdA0U&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:27:44.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:49:13.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I work with an older 202 straight 6 Holden engine in a landrover, so my perspective is somewhat vintage.  However the basic underlying concepts are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cause: Low oil in the oil pan, at the very bottom of the engine.  Normally the oil should read right on the Full line on a dipstick, when the vehicle is level and the motor is cold and has not run for several hours.  This allows the oil in the upper part of the engine to run back down into the pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation: The oil is drawn from the pan into a pipe called the oil pickup.  This is a hard pipe that hangs down into the lower part of your oil pan.  As long as this part is covered by oil all the time, you're good.  On a steep ascent or descent, the oil may move away from the pickup, which is the same condition as when there's low oil all the time.  Also, hard cornering can slosh around the oil so the pickup comes clear for an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an oil pickup and screen in place.  The pan is not there, and this motor is upside-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zwqb7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zwqb7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pickup is uncovered, it will attempt to suck in crankcase air rather than straight oil.  Since air is far more compressible than oil, the effective oil pressure drops with air in the line.  The oil pump should push through most air bubbles, but in the worst case it may end up empty of oil, and filled with air instead.  This could cause an air lock and oil simply stops flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effect:  Your motor pumps the oil up the side of the engine into the head, where there are lots of moving parts like cams and cam followers.  My motor has push rods and rockers and valve stems that all need to be lubricated continuously.  With a lower oil pressure from the pump, less oil gets pushed to the top of the engine and these moving parts can run drier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there are oil throwers and slingers at various places around the main crankshaft.  These catch and scoop oil and throw it into/onto places that need lube, like the cylinder walls when the piston is up, and into the connecting rod eye bearings.  Should the oil level drop low, this lower-engine lubrication is reduced, and things run hot, with increased friction and wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall that the average car engine cycles its entire store of oil through the engine 4 times a minute.      I suspect its more often in a more recent engine.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source - this is worth watching: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDXXkpGiLU0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDXXkpGiLU0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not all bad - there are more modern systems like dry sumps in racing cars, where the oil is pumped into a holding tank under pressure and then fed to the engine, so its got a reservoir of oil for the corners.  You still shouldn't run out, but you can hard-corner without loosing lubrication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Story: My other-half's car was sounding very tappity, but otherwise ran okay.  Wasn't till she was driving the car up a decent grade that the oil pressure light came on.  It was 2 litres low, and barely registering on the dipstick at all.  A couple days later, she drove the car out of the garage and then checked the oil.  It read real low because the motor had just been running.  So she put an extra 2L in and drove for 30 minutes.  Car was running really badly, blowing blue smoke as the oil was forced around the rings past the pistons and into the combustion chamber.   We drained some out and all was well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So its a case of too much is bad, not enough is bad, and just right is just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastEditorUserId="12814" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T10:05:34.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T10:05:34.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2016-01-12T01:51:41.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did not specify the era of the car you wanted to convert, but newer models are more complicated, so the simplest conversion may be something classic. One very common platform for conversion is a VW Type I, the Bug/Beetle/Karmann Ghia cars. They're light and there's room to work. However, you'd have to want to have an old car, as well as an electric conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T01:51:41.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2016-01-12T02:47:56.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drill bit has flutes (grooves in the sides). Try driving nails into both flutes, then grab with locking pliers and turn. Lubricate with penetrating oil first to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On second thought- instead of nails, which are generally very soft steel, use tougher steel pins... the easiest of which to find is the shank of a dull drill bit, everyone has some dull 1/8&quot; bits lying around. You can cut off the fluted part, or just use them as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T14:13:27.897" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:13:27.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22204" CreationDate="2016-01-12T02:59:10.817" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a well known problem caused by the softly mounted IRS sub-frame and the differential. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14240" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T04:50:22.893" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:50:22.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2016-01-12T03:02:50.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have a welder.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weld a metal rod to the top of the drill bit at a 90 degree angle from the drill bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then use the rod as a lever to turn out the drill bit in reverse.  You may want to take a hammer and punch and hammer on the end of the drill bit a few times to loosen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of that drill bit sticking out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO opinion, even if it a bit of welding splash gets on the plate, you can grind it off.  Looks like a work in progress.  If a piece of the bit happens to get welded to the plate, you can grind it a bit to ensure it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the trick on very large snapped bolts but never a drill bit and am unsure of whether or not the bit can be welded to the rod in my scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T03:29:21.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T03:29:21.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24584" CreationDate="2016-01-12T03:05:35.450" Score="17" ViewCount="21046" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of belt driven motorcycles compared to chain driven bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T03:55:24.790" Title="Is there a benefit to belt driven motorcycles?" Tags="|motorcycle|drivetrain|belt|chain|sprocket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24588" CreationDate="2016-01-12T03:08:42.540" Score="7" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;What modifications must be made to a motorcycle to classify it as a chopper and how does it differentiate from most stock designs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T09:28:23.220" Title="What is a chopper?" Tags="|motorcycle|custom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24558" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:05:52.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could start from an existing hybrid gas/electric. A vehicle like this will already have the electric motor and battery; all you have to do is remove/bypass the engine, rather than starting from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1263" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:05:52.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15120" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:20:03.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If grease can be used in battery terminal , why a petroleum jelly is supplied with battery and as per technical installation, supplier directs to use petroleum jelly not a grease. please need help on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14242" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:20:03.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:28:53.610" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belt vs Chain in Motorcycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to say which one is better.  Depending on the application, one can be better or not in the particular role.  High horsepower applications are not the place of belts and low maintenance is not the place for chains.  Applications vary and one is not necessarily better than the other overall.  The role of the final drive decides which final drive is best suited for the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro's for Chains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chains have more strength for higher performance/high HP applications&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken chains can be fixed with a new master link&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Final drive ratio is easily changed through various sprocket size changes and combinations&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con's for Chains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A chain failure can be catastrophic, potentially puncturing and engine case when they fail&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A chain has considerably more inertial mass than a belt&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chains weigh up to 10 lbs and are heavy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chains require regular maintenance and require ongoing adjustment throughout their life&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chains require lubrication that can get flung about and require ongoing cleaning&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro's for Belts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts are very light&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts rarely do damage to the vehicle when they fail&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts can last up to 100,000 miles, longevity&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts require very little maintenance, lower operation cost&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts are have a lower cost per mile than chains&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts transfer power more efficiently than chains&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con's for Belts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Difficult to repair on the side of the road&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less strength than a chain&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T08:57:40.350" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T08:57:40.350" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24559" CreationDate="2016-01-12T04:47:34.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What actually happens inside the engine to cause it to function incorrectly at higher temperatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the many ways that engines fail due to high temperature is the increased diameter of a piston due to the heat.  As you have noted heat will make things get bigger.  In a situation where an engine seizes due to heat the OD (outside diameter) of the piston increases in size so much that is larger than the ID (inside diameter) of the bore it is traveling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upon seizing because of heat, due to very high friction, the piston stops the crankshaft from turning as the motor cannot create enough power to overcome the friction of the seizing piston in the cylinder bore.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon cool down of the ICE the piston will shrink and allow the engine to turn over if there is no physical impedance from the actual seizure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases an engine can be started after a heat related seizure.  This does not mean that it is good operational order or that lifespan and durability have not effected it.  More than likely rings, piston and cylinder bore have irrevocably damaged and require replacement and machining in order for the ICE to continue to operate normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Affects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plain bearings for the crankshaft and connecting rods&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Radiator/Coolant hoses can burst due to the increased pressure in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Radiators that are old or poorly constructed can fail due to increased internal pressure of the cooling system&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Head gaskets can fail due to the increased temperature of the coolant OR due to warping during cool down or an overzealous operator putting cold water into the radiator before the ICE can cool slowly and evenly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overhead cam cam holders&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Various other components&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T08:39:54.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T08:39:54.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2016-01-12T05:06:55.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some reasons why some manufacturers use belts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoothness of the drive: The belt has the quality of putting down the torque of the engine much more smoothly and gradually than the chain counterpart, in a belt driven motorcycle you wont feel the sudden TUG when you twist the throttle.(This is the reason usually cruisers have this design and not the super-bikes but there are exceptions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 Noise:There is literally 0 noise in the belt driven design compared to a chain drive which will need constant tightening in order to avoid rattling noise which might be unpleasant, belts however do not emit any kind of noise way until their last leg of useful lives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better for dusty environment: Belts do not accumulate dust or dirt and need far less maintenance when compared to chain driven design , thus causing very low maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: My friend works at Harley Davidson India and I asked the exact same question to him some time ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Issues with the chain drive I think Ducatikiller has explained in his answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T05:06:55.077" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24552" CreationDate="2016-01-12T06:07:29.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the engine fan running slowly at idle? If so, its a sign that it needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a funny smell in the cabin? Refrigerant tends to slowly leak and has a weird smell. Have a friend smell the cabin air in case you got used to the smell (due to driving it all the time).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more and better help we will need a bit more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T06:07:29.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24581" CreationDate="2016-01-12T06:09:56.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chopper_%28motorcycle%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A chopper is a type of custom motorcycle which emerged in the United States in the mid-1960s. The chopper is perhaps the most extreme of all custom styles, often using radically modified steering angles and lengthened forks for a stretched-out appearance. They can be built from an original motorcycle which is modified (&quot;chopped&quot;) or built from scratch. Some of the characteristic features of choppers are long front ends with extended forks often coupled with an increased rake angle, hardtail frames (frames without rear suspension), very tall &quot;ape hanger&quot; or very short &quot;drag&quot; handlebars, lengthened or stretched frames, and larger than stock front wheels. The &quot;sissy bar&quot;, a set of tubes that connect the rear fender with the frame, and which are often extended several feet high, is a signature feature on many choppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T09:28:23.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T09:28:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T06:51:01.113" Score="10" ViewCount="9754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail to clean out the EGR ports on my Honda Accord.  The EGR port was all clogged up with carbon build up.  I replaced all the old o-rings, cushion rings and injector seals with new ones.  One of the injector seals isn't sealing properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tried just using clean oil to get them to seal, that didn't work.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried silicone gasket maker around the injector seals and that worked less than the oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a youtube video where someone used silicone spray.  It looks part of the metal on the engine where this injector goes in isn't quite even at one part.  What's the best way to get this thing to seal up?  The vacuum leak from this is causing my idle to go way up (1.5 - 2k rpms) it gets worse after using the brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there something out there that would work better?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought of using heavier weight engine oil or putting a washer in front of the cushion so that there will be more pressure on the injector seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a picture of a similar fuel injector.  My model doesn't have insulators though.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lof6T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lof6T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14243" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T08:26:51.233" LastActivityDate="2021-07-16T15:43:34.493" Title="Leaking Fuel Injector Seal" Tags="|fuel-system|seal|vacuum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-12T09:07:07.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine will likely seize up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened to me with a lawnmower once.  I tried to mow the lawn after dad drained the oil, but before he filled it.  It ran for a few minutes, then stopped as if the blade had hit something hard, but without the sound of the blade hitting something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We got very lucky, and were able to start it up after adding oil and letting it cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14246" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T09:07:07.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-12T09:56:31.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gap between cylinder and engine core is really really small. This gap is filled with oil under normal circumstances, allowing cylinder to &quot;slide&quot; in its container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you run out of oil, friction between cylinder and its container increases a lot, causing high wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When car runs without oil, friction between cylinder and its container generates a lot of heat, causing further cylinder wear. At the critical point, cylinder gets so hot so it actually 'melts' into its container and locks up with unability to move. Unfortunately, all cylinders are hard-joined to crankshaft and engine momentum is too high to stall immediately (as other cylinders are still making explosions and generating power), crankshaft usually disjoints from cylinder and damages some random part of engine by breaking hole in it, turning engine into junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens, it usually looks like some sort of &quot;explosion&quot; where engine makes loud sound (breaking crankshaft) and holes emit large amount of smoke from burned fuel, oil and hot metal of cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that while this depends on car, it is really small time frame engine can work without an oil, it may be around betweem 30 seconds and few minutes at max. So when you see oil pressure warning in cockpit, stop car immediately and turn off engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T09:56:31.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24602" CreationDate="2016-01-12T10:43:03.263" Score="8" ViewCount="2535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out recently that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24566/what-does-a-flywheel-do-and-what-is-it-connected-to/24567?noredirect=1#comment37648_24567&quot;&gt;the flywheel&lt;/a&gt;, driven by the crankshaft, is connected to (or part of) the clutch. I have a basic understanding of what a clutch does due to the fact that I know how to drive a car. By this, I mean that I know the clutch is disengaged when I put my foot on the pedal and that this results in the engine not being able to pull the car forward (as the power from the engine can not get to the wheels) - but I have no idea how this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is a clutch?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the effect of pressing the clutch pedal down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a &quot;clutch plate&quot; and how is it related to the clutch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do these things relate to the flywheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T11:43:51.180" Title="What exactly is a clutch?" Tags="|engine|clutch|engine-theory|clutch-plate|flywheel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2016-01-12T10:55:17.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bit isn't well jammed into the hole you might be able to get the tips of some needle nose pliers down the flutes and grab hold of it with that. If you can get hold of it, unscrew it out of the hole. This has worked for me but the bit in question wasn't tight in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T10:55:17.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T12:24:53.920" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if its possible for a Mazda 3 2011 AT car to function without ECU? The reason I am asking is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I start the engine, the CheckEngineLight doesnot come at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I took my car for scanning, they informed me that Port has been disconnected, and they assumed that ECU has been removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am taking my car to Mazda service tomorrow for a through check however if the ECU is to be replaced what is the cost am I looking at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is AT sensor somehow connected to ECU or is it a separate one, the reason being when when I move the key to second position the AT light appears and disappears after the engine is started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Car Specs are&#xA;Mazda 3 1.6 Gasoline AT 2011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T13:00:31.583" Title="Mazda 3 2011 1.6 Lts Gasoline - ECU" Tags="|automatic-transmission|electronic-control-module|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24594" CreationDate="2016-01-12T12:37:33.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way a 2011 car can run without the engine ECU, unless the engine has been swapped for something from 70s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T12:37:33.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24610" CreationDate="2016-01-12T12:48:43.070" Score="5" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the course of writing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24564/675&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; I learnt that the current output of wideband lambda sensors is sensitive to exhaust gas pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daytona-sensors.com/download/Bosch_LSU4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This technical document&lt;/a&gt; for Bosch LSU 4.2 widebands explains how changes in absolute gas pressure with alter current signal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10.6 Pressure dependency of the sensor signal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pressure change of the measured gas gives a deviation of the sensor output signal of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ip(P) = Ip(P0) * P/(k+P) * (k+P0)/P0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a nice graphical representation of the deviation which I can post up later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the same is true for narrowband sensors. They operate quite differently from widebands, but it is known that certain cars dislike certain brands/models of narrowband sensor, even though the waveform should not change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T18:27:21.943" Title="Does exhaust gas pressure impact the output of narrowband lambdas?" Tags="|exhaust|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24600" CreationDate="2016-01-12T12:49:57.407" Score="9" ViewCount="2568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine oil is used in the lubrication process, at the same place petrol is also there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What prevents engine oil mixing with petrol in motor bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14249" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T17:27:19.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T06:37:12.640" Title="What prevents engine oil from mixing with petrol in motor bikes?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24594" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:00:31.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the port being disconnected it is possible that the CEL bulb in the instrument cluster has blown, which would explain why you are not seeing it light up when the key is turned to Ignition On.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission control module is usually separate from the engine control module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T13:00:31.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24614" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:06:47.207" Score="5" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a bobber and are there advantages for turning your motorcycle into one as opposed to running it stock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T03:23:18.967" Title="What is a bobber?" Tags="|motorcycle|custom|bobber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:06:47.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piston rings prevent the two from mixing freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it isn't possible to have the two perfectly isolated from each other. There will be a little bit of oil that gets burned during consumption, and some exhaust gases will find their way into the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these rings wear, the amount of oil lost to the combustion chamber increases. If a four-stroke engine is burning a lot of oil, worn piston rings are a likely candidate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T13:06:47.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:11:48.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clutch works in exactly the same way as your brakes. The flywheel is just a big metal disk at the end of the crankshaft. Your clutch plate is a round piece of friction material (just like a brake disk) that is pressed hard onto the flywheel so it can transfer the power from the engine to the transmission (and from there to to wheels). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you press the clutch pedal you pull the clutch away from the surface of the flywheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you release it, it gets pressed up against the flywheel. When it's pressed onto the flywheel, it causes the driveshaft to turn the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:58:37.230" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:58:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2016-01-12T13:12:17.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, a clutch is a part which allows to connect / disconnect two shafts also while they are rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple clutch consists of two discs, each firmly attached to one shaft. Press them together, and the friction between them allows to transfer torque from the one shaft to the other. Pull them apart, and the shafts aren't connected any more, and each shaft can rotate at its own RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important point is that the clutch discs can slip until both shafts have the same RPM. This makes them different from gear wheels, which can also connect/disconnect shafts, but already needs the shafts to have the right RPM ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical clutch in a car is not much more that that two disks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC5qG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QC5qG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orange &lt;em&gt;clutch plate&lt;/em&gt; is connected to the shaft to the gear box, the blue is the flywheel, connected to the crank shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the yellow pressure plate is pressed (due to the diaphragm spring) to the clutch plate, and also presses this to the fly wheel. Motor and transmission are connected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you press the clutch pedal, the inner part of the spring is pushed left, which causes the outer part to move to the right. This also moves the pressure plate to the left, releasing the clutch plate. The motor is not connected to the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary that the left disc actually is the flywheel, but as the flywheel already has about the size needed, it is usually used as part of the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more words about the clutch in the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you disengage a gear, you put lots of wear on the teeth of the gear wheels, when there's still torque applied to them. So the clutch removes this torque, and allows to disengage the gear gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you engage the new gear, the shaft between gearbox and clutch still has not the right RPM matching the gear and the RPM of the shaft to the wheels. Therefore, each gear has some kind of &quot;mini-clutch&quot; called synchronisation ring, which brings that shaft to the right RPM (and correct position). But this clutch is only for that small shaft and is too small to bring the entire motor to the right RPM. Also, it is only used to match the RPM, not to transfer the torque while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to mention other types of clutches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most scooters have this kind of clutch, which looks similar to a drum brake (but e.g. without piston)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYPcs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYPcs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire reddish part is connected to the motor side and rotates counter-clock wise. When the RPM is increases, the orange parts are pulled outwards due to centrifugal force and so are pressed against the green drum, which is connected to the wheel.  The only reason for that clutch is to disconnect wheel and motor while idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T11:43:51.180" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T11:43:51.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:10:48.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more additional points to the above (good) answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cost per mile it probably depends a lot on the OE parts prices. With the old Kawasaki belt system used in the 1980s they lasted maybe 50% longer, but failed with little or no warning and cost a LOT more to replace (plus the far greater labour to change them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt life on Buells does not seem that long, while they are not ultimately that high power. Possibly down to the amount of suspension movement and its effect on belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further in some countries automatic chain oilers are available which greatly reduce chain maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains are more efficient when new, but that efficiency reduces with wear. Hence soon a belt does become more efficient. This I have heard as the primary reason why belts are not used in GP racing, as the chain is likely to be binned long before its efficiency degrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some uses the difficulty in changing pulley wheel sizes to alter gearing will be a major issue. Some of this could be overcome (more belt adjustment margin to allow a greater range of pulley wheel sizes), but that still leaves a significantly higher cost for alternative sizes of pulley wheels compared to sprockets, and the impossibility of doing the equivalent of taking a couple of links out of a chain (or indeed the impossibility of swapping out a belt in a hurry without removing the swinging arm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belts are quieter than chains (which might become more of an issue as noise laws get tighter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:10:48.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24599" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:18:29.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bobber is simply a stripped down motorcycle. The name comes from the term &quot;bob-job&quot;. Which was something done in the early days of racing to reduce weight. Bobbers are normally american motorcycles, but it can be done to any brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages are less weight. But these days a motorcycle's aero is too important to ignore since it impact performance and safety at speed. I would not do it too much to a modern bike because they are too uncomfortable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:18:29.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24608" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:47:08.647" Score="4" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2004 VW Passat B5. Recently, my insurance company came round to fit a black box to my car as part of the terms and conditions of my car insurance policy. Whilst they were doing this they had to visually check the condition of the car, as well as check the state of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A concern that they had to raise on the report was that the battery was in poor condition and that I should consider getting it replaced. If I don't, they said the car may not start reliably in cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw the following reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;REPLACE BATTERY&#xA;Battery State 52%&#xA;12.3V&#xA;226 CCA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What does this mean? Does my battery really need to be replaced?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:53:19.663" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:28:09.607" Title="Poor battery condition, replacement required! Or is it?" Tags="|engine|battery|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24501" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:47:38.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to color match automotive paint properly. Professionals (at a body shop, for instance) would be able to do it, as suggested by Paulster2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specialty automotive paint retailer (not a general auto parts store) will be able to match colors, but it is often a bit of a trial-and-error process. If you are able to remove your mirror and bring it into the store, they might have a color matching machine that they can put it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14230" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:47:38.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24606" CreationDate="2016-01-12T15:09:33.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A battery for your car might be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/black-dynamic/545-412-040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Varta 545 412 040&lt;/a&gt; which has 45Ah and a cold crank current (CCA) of 400A. Your value is about 56% of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery#Terms_and_ratings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's &quot;Automotive battery&quot; article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cold cranking amperes (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C). The rating is defined as the current a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). It is a more demanding test than those at higher temperatures. This is the most widely used cranking measurement for comparison purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a measure of the power of your battery, which slowly gets lower over time. And yes, if your battery is too old, the CCA may be so low, that the battery can't start the motor when it's cold. And about 50% isn't that much any more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wonder how they got this value, as the test conditions are hard to achieve with this little box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, you will notice your battery is old when starting isn't that easy any more or if lights become really dim when you start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T19:28:09.607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T19:28:09.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24501" CreationDate="2016-01-12T15:34:04.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take your make and model to a body shop supplier, they will be able to match the OEM color on their computer or book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:34:04.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24596" CreationDate="2016-01-12T15:48:14.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are currently two kinds of narrowband sensors used these days: titania sensors (NTK) and zirconia (Bosch).  This answer only addresses the zirconia sensors which are the most common type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmltf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmltf.png&quot; alt=&quot;picture shared under Creative Commons license courtesy of Michael Handrich&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to the diagram (which was created by Michael Handrich and shared under a Creative Commons license), the sensor is a galvanic cell that generates what's called the &lt;em&gt;Nernst voltage&lt;/em&gt; which is proportional to the natural logarithm of the ratio of the two different oxygen concentrations.  Specifically, this is the Nernst voltage equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;dU = -T*k_B/e_0 * ln(c1/c2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where k_B is the Boltzmann constant in J/K, T is temperature in K, e_0 is the charge of an electron in C.  c1 and c1 are both ion concentrations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important physical law is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalton&amp;#39;s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dalton's law&lt;/a&gt; which says that the total pressure of a mixture of ideal gasses is equal to the sum of partial pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;p_total = p_1 + p_2 + p_3 + ... + p_n&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the ratio of partial pressure of oxygen on one side of the cell to the partial pressure of oxygen on the other is identical to the ratio of ion concentration.  It should be apparent that the partial pressure of any particular gas is directly proportional the total pressure (all other things being equal).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that a higher total pressure on the exhaust gas side should mean a higher concentration of oxygen and therefore a higher voltage compared to the voltage that would be present if there were no pressure differential.  That is exactly what your equation says (although it is somewhat curiously related to the current rather than the voltage in that equation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find an authoritative source which gives the exact coefficients for a narrowband zirconia sensor, but I'd expect it to be identical to the equation you gave with the only difference being the values for the constants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since we are talking about a narrow band sensor in this case, the effect would be only on the narrow linear range of the sensor -- &quot;too lean&quot; or &quot;too rich&quot; voltages would be unchanged.  Only the points at which the curve changes from flatline to linear would shift slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T18:27:21.943" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T18:27:21.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2016-01-12T17:39:06.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add a bit to Sweber's post.  There are also multi-plate clutches that are you used in most motorcycles and very frequently in automobile racing like IRL and F1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/179Uo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/179Uo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcYsV063lk8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A good video on multi-plate clutches.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T17:39:06.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T18:49:19.550" Score="8" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a Peugeot 308 1.6 ehdi with a six speed manual gearbox and have noticed that when selecting first or sixth gear it does not go in smoothly it can be notchy or clunky this is quite annoying as putting it in all the other gears is fine.could this be a possible gear selector problem or if its a cable can this be adjusted, any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14254" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T21:45:15.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:54:04.677" Title="Gear selection on 6 speed box" Tags="|transmission|peugeot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24599" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:08:33.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bobbers have particular characteristics and styling that define them as a bobber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very stripped down for weight reduction to increase in power to weight ratio&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removal of the front and rear fender&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removal of passenger related equipment (seat, passenger footpegs)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frequently a hard tail with the rear suspension removed and replaced with hard struts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A shortened seat height&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A cut frame to reduce seat height and remove unnecessary items&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bobber will typically not have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A raked front end like a chopper&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Liquid cooling for the engine (this isn't a must but a frequent)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puRn1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puRn1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T03:23:18.967" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T03:23:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24618" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:52:16.630" Score="3" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this great answer, the second one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1k3fw-change-alternator-belt-2003-honda-civic.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1k3fw-change-alternator-belt-2003-honda-civic.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On part (7) and (8) it says to turn the belt adjusting bolt counter-clockwise to loosen the belt. But how do I gauge the bolt and belt tension after I put the new belts on? How do I know when I've screwed the bolt enough, too much or too little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:44:32.743" Title="What is the proper way to use the belt adjusting bolt when changing belts on a civic?" Tags="|belt-tensioner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24619" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:18:32.770" Score="3" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear wiper fluid sprayer isn't working.  Is there a separate fluid tank for the rear wiper?  Is there a separate pump for this that could be broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T21:56:54.747" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T06:41:18.897" Title="2003 Mazda Tribute Rear Wiper Fluid" Tags="|mazda|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18876" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:40:31.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheating... I agree has nothing to do with the components that do the &quot;breathing&quot; of the vehicle. Thermostat is easy to diagnose but cheaper (time vs $) to just replace and verify diagnosis. If the water pump works and the radiator is in solid condition my concerns would be head-gasket (warping of head due to heat) and clogged water jackets. A proper flush 9/10 will eliminate the clogged jackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:40:31.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24615" CreationDate="2016-01-12T21:44:32.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the diagram which they posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhUOy.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhUOy.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are looking for the deflection point at &quot;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. Normal deflection is considered about 1/2&quot; (or just under 2cm). As the guy in the instruction says, tighten up the belt, then run the engine for about 5 minutes, then readjust the belts again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt is too tight, you are putting extra wear on the belt and accessories. If the belt is too loose, you run the risk of the belt jumping off, extra belt wear, and/or an accessory slipping, which means you'd not be getting the best performance out of any part of that which the belt drives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:44:32.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24616" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:03:49.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears from what I've been reading, there is only one fluid reservoir, which is in the front. There is, I believe a separate pump for the back end. If you are turning the switch and not hearing anything, most likely the pump is not functioning. If you turn the switch and nothing is coming out, I read where one person said to just hold it on for a longer period (60-120 seconds) of time to refill the line coming from the front. If that doesn't work you probably have a clogged line. Also, stupid thing to say, but ensure your front reservoir is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:03:49.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24633" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:16:32.000" Score="10" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience driving through the rain at speeds above 100 km/h results in a cloud of sprayed water behind the car, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGdz3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGdz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;splash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I encounter more and more recently repaired road sections where the pavement is virtually immune to splashing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIwUL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIwUL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nosplash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pictures are taken 10 seconds apart, on the autobahn A5 near &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps?q=Rastatt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rastatt&lt;/a&gt;. I also have a corresponding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoeuXaEJgp8#t=8m50s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, where the exact border between old &amp;amp; new pavement can be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how new pavements achieve this remarkable performance at eliminating splashing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What properties help draining water so effectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T02:37:50.007" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T10:30:13.233" Title="How is this pavement optimized to suppress water splashing?" Tags="|safety|driving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24622" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:49:08.113" Score="7" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I have had work done in the past that I can't perform myself, timing belt etc every garage I have been too has made a real mess with my air filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I check the filter there is always dirt/oil all over the seal, finger prints etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly doubt it makes much difference to the engine but just checking with the experts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I change it or just put it back in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T02:37:09.783" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T02:37:09.783" Title="Dirty air filter seal" Tags="|engine|maintenance|air-intake|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24621" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:55:25.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the prints are just on the seal, I wouldn't worry about it. You could possibly take some gentle cleaner (Windex or Formula 409 or the like which will clean grease) and make it pretty again. It won't, however, decrease the function of the filter in any way. If they got a bunch of oil on the element itself, you might want to think about it. Really nothing to worry about with your description, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:55:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2016-01-12T22:59:51.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For go the previous answers! I used to do it all the time as a Big truck Mechanic. use two lite hammers and two punches half the diameter of the drill flutes(grooves on side of the &quot;drill bit&quot;). Ask a friend to operate one set of hammer and punch you the other set. using the drill flutes You both set punch at opposite directions,close to 90degree angle to broken bit point in opposite direction to original drill operation. Now both of you tap punch with hammer gently (hard hit not needed)try to tap as close to same time as you can. While timing isn't critical it does help! The time you take to gather the tools will take longer than removing the bit! It will screw out backward in about 30 seconds to one and a half minutes. It works absolutely every time. &quot;CB&quot;handle is &quot;CookieMonster&quot;just relax and enjoy the info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14264" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T22:59:51.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:22:31.280" Score="6" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on getting an 1967 ford f100 and saw that the gas mileage isn't the best on these trucks. The certain truck I have my eye on has a V8 5.8L engine and was wondering if more liters in the engine means better gas mileage? Or does liters have nothing to do with mileage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T23:27:13.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:33:26.783" Title="1967 Ford F100 miles per gallon" Tags="|ford|fuel-consumption|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:23:17.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can answer this because it has happened to me a few times. There are several different possibilities depending on the ambient temperature and how old the engine is. Here are three real scenarios that have happened with my 1996 Volvo 850:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) When the oil gets low the first thing you might notice is more noise. Oil muffles the engine, so when oil gets low the clatter from the engine becomes slightly louder. Eventually the &quot;low pressure oil&quot; oil light comes (hopefully). If the car is new, it will get hot rapidly because the fitting between the cylinders and bore is tight. If the engine is old, it may just keep puttering away because of a looser fit. As long as the temperature does not get hot, it is ok, but your engine will have accelerated wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) In high ambient temperature (summertime), you will get a temperature overload first. Once my low-oil-pressure light failed so I ran low on oil without noticing. The temperature of the engine heated up and I was not watching the temperature indicator. The first thing I noticed was steam coming out of hood. I &lt;strong&gt;IMMEDIATELY&lt;/strong&gt; pulled over. With a full-sized beach towel I opened the hood, and removed the radiator cap, steam and hot water exploded out, gushing over the engine; this is good because pressure release causes cooling. I then got a gallon of cold water and poured it in and poured two more gallons right over the engine. No permanent damage was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; note that this can be &lt;strong&gt;extremely&lt;/strong&gt; dangerous! Coolant is under pressure and opening the cap on a hot engine can cause it to start boiling and expel hot coolant with considerable force. Serious burns can result. The standard recommendation is to allow the engine to cool before removing the radiator or coolant reservoir cap. In my case I used a large, full-sized beach towel to stifle the explosion. Using such a large towel, blanket or other large, thick fabric covering is necessary to avoid burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) In a low temperature situation (winter) in an old car, the engine may seize before overheating. This happened to me a few weeks ago. The darn oil pressure sensor has failed again. I was happily driving on the highway, no temperature abnormality at all, but ignoring engine noise which should have tipped me off I was low on oil, VERY low. I pulled over to refuel. I filled gas tank up and went to start the car: putt, putt, putt, it went like 5 feet and then stopped. Tried again, prrrr, prrr, erk, stall. The engine was seized. This means it is hot and the parts are rubbing. On the highway, the pistons are moving so fast and hard, they keep going, but once stopped, the friction prevents them from moving: seizure. I checked the oil: gone completely. I filled up the oil with the right amount. The car started and drove normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because my car is older it can tolerate higher temperatures somewhat and not overheat as easily. With a newer car with tight-fitting pistons or a performance car, loss of oil is much more dangerous because the engine can build up heat so fast it becomes red hot. If this happens, the head can warp and then the engine will leak oil rapidly. The engine is more or less garbage at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastEditorUserId="10873" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:10:24.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:10:24.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24624" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:33:26.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; vehicles, the larger the engine the more fuel it burns. The 5.8L size is the displacement (or swept volume) of all the cylinders (eight in your case) added up. When the cylinders fill with the air/fuel mixture, this mixture should be stoichiometric at about 14:1 ratio (no matter what kind of gas/petrol engine you run, this is &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; what you are shooting for). This means that in order to fill the cylinder correctly, it takes more fuel per revolution of the crankshaft, which means more fuel at any given RPM. &lt;strong&gt;This equates to less MPG.&lt;/strong&gt; The trade-off here is that you get more power/torque out of the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Please understand, what I've written above is a &lt;em&gt;generality&lt;/em&gt;. There are engine combinations out there which get better mileage, but generally what I've written is accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:33:26.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24620" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:42:14.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot know for sure, but the new pavement may be more permeable than the old, allowing water to quickly drain directly through the roadway, rather than collecting on the surface and having to run off the sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iJP7DFt6AU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this video for a demonstration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:42:14.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:10:48.380" Score="6" ViewCount="7778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 DODGE Ram 1500 v8. My heat only work while its blowing low and when I switch speeds it starts to get cold. I almost checked everything that could be check other than the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14269" LastEditorUserId="14269" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T08:24:07.923" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T02:16:44.770" Title="Heat blowing hot but only on low" Tags="|dodge|heater|ram|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24629" CreationDate="2016-01-13T01:42:34.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a gradual change? Like when you turn the speed selector dial, does it slowly get cold? Or does it just literally instantly change? Are there any noises you hear when you change from low to different speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important. I believe they use HVAC control units in those and that may be causing the problem. There are two motors, one for vent control and the other for your blend door. If there is an issue with the control unit, it can act up. I've seen similar issues electrically in many Dodge vehicles. Dodge (Chrysler) is known for having issues with their HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T01:42:34.310" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24642" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:33:26.820" Score="6" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Subaru Forester.  My engine light came on a couple of days ago and I was planning on bringing my car in to have it checked out.  This evening as I was driving I felt like the car would not accelerate as well as it normally does and when I slowed down, the engine cut.  I was able to immediately restart the car and decided to drive back home.  While at a stop light, the engine was making a revving sound.  I was able to get my car back home and do not have any problems starting it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any ideas on what it might be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14271" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T11:28:05.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T11:28:05.283" Title="revving sounds and the engine cut" Tags="|engine|subaru|cel|forester|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2016-01-13T02:38:47.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this same problem on a 1999 Dodge Ram 4x4.  Didn't start doing it Until it had 50,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1999 has only one oxygen censor and throttle body.  That said, itss not not a vary smart electronic system so I wouldn't think the system has a limp mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also remember years ago that a deep snow broke a plastic vacuum line under the trany that causes the 4 wheel drive too stop working.  &lt;strong&gt;I spliced a piece of rubber vacuum hose on the line to fix it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall if the low fuel and shift problem started at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14272" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T06:00:53.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T06:00:53.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24620" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:07:38.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I am unsure of the material that is being used for the roadway in your photos it appears similar to &lt;strong&gt;Topmix Permeable concrete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how new pavements achieve this remarkable performance at eliminating splashing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Topmix Permeable concrete&lt;/strong&gt; is simply a very porous concrete interlaced with large rounded pebbles.  In order to allow as much water as possible through the roadway and continue to absorb liquid a base of rubble and channels must be formed.  They do not eliminate splashing so much as they absorb and allow liquid to drain down through the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDsZ9.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDsZ9.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52Eor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52Eor.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Technology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The State of California in the US has an initiative of porous concrete solution combined with recycled rubber from tires.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/tires/rac/Training/RAC103.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a state government technology guide describing the initiative and the technology.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost Justification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers of cars can allow their tires to become degraded and wait until the last minute to change them creating a safety issue due to bald tires and what not.  The cost to the government for the healthcare of these individuals can be relatively high.  A proactive cost control method employed by the state could be to employ this type of road technology to decrease the number of accidents annually.  The one time cost of implementation could be less than the cost related to the healthcare of individuals who suffer crash related injuries in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T09:51:44.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:32:05.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without oil to lubricate, metal on metal surfaces begin to heat up from friction. The extra heat causes the metal to expand. When it expands enough, some part of the engine will try to stop moving, but the other parts may not stop yet because of momentum or power, causing bends and breaks of internal engine parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When oil is too low, the oil pump might not always be able to draw oil in, leading to gaps in lubrication where the extra heat will burn and break up whatever oil did remain, accelerating towards eventual failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12690" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T04:32:05.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T06:03:08.023" Score="3" ViewCount="8956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Toyota Camry, she's been having some problems lately. The alternator and starter is new, and I just purchased a new battery(voltage reads fine on it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take it for a short drive(just down the street or around the corner) it won't start. For the first while I could leave it for 10-15 minutes and it would start fine, last time it was 6 hours, now it's been sitting in a parking lot for over eight hours and still won't start. If I go for a longer drive (fourty-sixty minutes) leave the car off for 20 it starts fine after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have many suggestions that it may be the cold start valve, temp sensor, crank sensor, etc. But I would like to diagnose first incase I can do a simple fix myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14274" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T06:07:57.480" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T20:06:28.580" Title="car won't start after short distances" Tags="|toyota|starting|camry|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2016-01-13T07:04:44.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resolution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Drain your oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you are having the issue is too much oil.  You overfilled your crankcase and now the oil is coming out of your PCV (positive crankcase ventilation).  Your PCV vents your crankcase on the valve cover. It's the big hose attached to it. Oil gets into that hose that attaches to your airbox between the air filter and the carburetor.  Drain it and refill it properly with the correct amount to prevent this from occurring again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Clean Your Airbox&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove your air filter.  Look behind where it was mounted in the airbox.  Clean all of the oil out.  You can use carburetor cleaner if you want.  It makes it a little quicker and easier.  This is the oil that was going in your engines combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Clean Your Air Filter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your oil filter didn't get saturated during this mess.  Either clean it or replace it if the clean carburetor side has oil on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Check Your Spark Plug.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the plug, clean it if it's black with carb cleaner and a toothbrush or replace it.  If you can't get it not black.  That's your hint to replace it.  Be sure to gap it according to spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once complete you should be fine.  I would imagine your core issue is an oily air filter that restricts air flow and makes the bike too rich.  The oily air filter cause you already know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:34:29.987" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:34:29.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8875" CreationDate="2016-01-13T07:28:43.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not usual&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put new brake pads on your motorcycle you have to depress the pistons in the calipers to make room for all of the new brake pad material you have on a new brake pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you depress the pistons in the calipers the buildup of the brake bad dust gets into the seal a bit.  When you apply the brakes it forces the piston out of the caliper, when you release the brake lever the caliper is supposed to retract just a bit.  Not much but just enough to pull the pad off the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are typically two reason why a pad would rub on a rotor after a pad change&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The piston was not properly cleaned and removed from the caliper and as a result is sticking enough that it is not retracting in the caliper and dragging on the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The glue.  High temp anti-squeal adhesive needs to be applied to the backing plate of the pad.  The backing plate sits between the pad and the piston prevents the piston from damaging the pad.  If you don't put the anti-squeal with some adhesive properties the pad may not retract with the piston leaving it to drag on the rotor.  In race applications the backing plate and the adhesive isn't typically used as the rotor drag amounts to such a minimal amount of friction that it's not relevant.  As well, the anti-squeal tends to not like extraordinarily hot environments and can get hot enough to actually begin to smoke.  Smoke is bad so there is tendency to avoid it's use in a competitive scenarios.  In other words, it's not necessary for what you are trying to accomplish which I assume is to not race.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pads are dragging and your not racing this bike, that's not right.  I would assume the squeaking is coming from your backing plate vibrating upon braking.  Get the anti-squeal for cars or bikes, it doesn't matter as much as advertising would like you to believe.  Put it on both sides of the backing plate &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;between the brake pad and the caliper piston&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and enjoy the silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T00:09:20.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T00:09:20.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24984" CreationDate="2016-01-13T07:40:13.583" Score="10" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems possible to obtain engine torque and RPM from a truck CAN bus. I'd like to estimate tractive force at the wheels given these two values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about computing torque at the wheels? Wouldn't I need gear ratio, which doesn't seem obtainable from the CAN bus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(also asked this question on physics.stackexchange)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T07:17:36.463" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T08:53:55.847" Title="Computing Wheel Torque From Engine Torque" Tags="|engine|obd-ii|torque|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6713" CreationDate="2016-01-13T07:52:29.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those collars are extraordinarily important.  They actually push against the rear wheel main bearing and the seal wraps around it when you insert the collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Riding without these is not recommended.  It's dangerous.  The rear brake can lock up as the wheel moves laterally along the horizontal axis.  As the wheel moves all the way to the left, if that's the case, the drum brake actuator rod (Which is set to a particular length for rear drum brake adjustment by the mechanic) will pull the brake lever arm and create a condition where the rear brake can lock up.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;     So, don't ride the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These collars are no longer in production but ebay is loaded with them.  I found 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of one, it looks used but that's fine.  It's just a piece of aluminum that is a particular length and has an inside diameter and an outside diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSN4d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSN4d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the collars from the following bikes.  I'm sure the list is longer but I'm pulling this out of the memory bank so it's not complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pre 1990 Honda Rebel 250 and 450&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1982 Honda Hawk&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1981 CM400, CM200 and the extraordinarily rare CM250T&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1980 CM400, any model&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1982 Kawasaki KZ450LTD&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, you can find this on ebay even though it's out of production.  I actually lost the same part about 2 years ago helping a friend and ordered a new in package one from ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T07:52:29.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6486" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:07:48.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two Possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head I would look at the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The clutch start switch&lt;/strong&gt; - a broken wire or switch will prevent you from starting the bike.  It disables the starter relay by grounding it out unless you pull in the clutch.  It's located on the handlebar and is integrated into the clutch lever landing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side Stand Switch&lt;/strong&gt; - See if the side stand switch hits properly on your kick stand.  If it does not get depressed when the side stand is up then your starter relay is going to ground and you will not be able to start it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip Over Sensor&lt;/strong&gt; - You have a tip over sensor in the rear of the motorcycle.  I believe it's under the passenger or the riders seats.  It will have an arrow that needs to point up when it is properly mounted.  Validate that this device has not come loose. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blown fuse&lt;/strong&gt; - If it is a blown fuse on your starter relay circuit the fuse is in the back of the bike under the seats inside your starter relay.  It's a 20 or 30 amp fuse and is NOT ON YOUR FUSE BLOCK with all the other fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your starter relay is required by regulation to have a plastic removable cover.  It looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By default, it will come with a spare fuse in it.  You will see it once you remove the snap on plastic cover.  If it's been used you will need to procure a new one at your local auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZqRE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZqRE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:30:46.067" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:30:46.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:09:56.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe is a common symptom of a dirty or contaminated oil filter! I am speaking of an &quot;automatic transmission fluid&quot; filter. it is similar to a motor oil filter except it filters &quot;ATF&quot;instead of Petroleum oil! When the filter is dirty or contaminated it Beaks down to a Thinner less effective consistency. At that point it can't develop enough pressure to operate the valves and pressure sensitive devices in any automatic transmission. That's when you get symptoms of slippage and or Engine racing with no increase of road speed. That can also feel like a power loss. It needs to be check by an automatic transmission shop or qualified Mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The condition can and will over time cause harm or damage to your Transmission. The longer you wait the more costly! The good side is Most Automatic transmission shops will do a standard service on your trans' and inspect and change the filter as part of the servicing! During that process they will find out if you need any more than JUST a Service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servicing your transmission will be mentioned in your operators/Owners Manual. It will tell you how often or time interval to do a standard scheduled trans'service! Please service earlier rather than later than indicated interval. It is the cheapest kind of insurance to be early(or before damage),rather than &quot;just a little later&quot; than suggested and pay for repairs instead of service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and hoping you have only a service needed! Pat (CookieMonster)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14264" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T09:49:31.747" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T09:49:31.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24631" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:21:46.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those symptoms could well be caused by an air leak allowing unmetered air into the engine.  This would cause a weak mixture when driving which could explain the lack of power and the cutting out.  It would also explain the revving when stopped because idle is primarily controlled by limiting the air intake into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check all the air pipes, including the crank case ventilation and vacuum control pipes for splits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are leak location methods that you can perform using some EGR cleaner or similar spray.  With the engine running, you spray it near possible splits, causing it to be sucked into the intake through the split.  This then acts as fuel and changes the engine revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:21:46.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6353" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:23:20.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it's a design issue but....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enfield has push rods and the max RPM is 5200 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The KTM has 4 valves per cylinder, good for breathing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Enfield has two valves per cylinder.  More valve weight with pushrods = low max RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The KTM has an overhead cam.  The is makes the valve train very light allows for higher ROM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Enfield has an undersquare piston stroke.  The long stoke = a smaller combustion chamber and smaller valves to go along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The KTM has an oversquare bore with a very short stroke.  This gives the KTM a larger combustion chamber with more room for the 4 valves per cylinder.  The short stroke increases your RPM and get's the engine into a more efficient RPM range as well.  The short stroke allows for higher RPM operation from the viewpoint of the reciprocating weight associated with the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Enfield is a 50 year old design and incorporates the technolgoy available at the time.  Pushrods, rocker arms, long piston stroke, small bore, smaller combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The KTM uses the same tech that the RC8 has in the cylinder head.  Big combustion chamber, short stroke, giant piston, shim and bucket valve train for RPM operation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The simple answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The KTM uses modern technology and the Enfield uses technology that was out of date in World War II.  Pushrods for the valve actuation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wrinkles nose as if smelling something rotting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:23:20.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24629" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:25:09.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars have a small electric pump for creating coolant flow around the heater matrix.  I don't know if your car has one of these, but if it has, it could be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:25:09.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2016-01-13T08:41:58.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bearing you are looking for are still available in the United States.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a google search for &quot;1983 Yamaha OEM parts&quot;  You will see various Yamaha websites.  Goto one and chase your bike with the make/model/year and this will be the result, the ability to purchase the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;All of the transmission bearings for the bike are still available for purchase, new&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuBTw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuBTw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:41:58.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5643" CreationDate="2016-01-13T09:08:54.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This essentially the same answer as your other question related to poor running, thee are instructions on how to pull your Kawasaki error codes.  This procedure works for all Kawasaki EFI systems from 2001 to 2015&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Need the FI Error Codes First&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There multiple possible answers as to why your FI light is on but this is a bit of a guessing game unless you pull codes using the following procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a workaround from using the official Kawasaki dealer tool to get your fuel injection related error codes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have collected the error codes you can now begin to troubleshoot your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is the procedure to get Kawasaki fuel injection system error codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pull off your seat and near the battery negative terminal there will be a self diagnosis lead coming out of a connector.  The wire is yellow.  It looks like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWp41.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Get a wire, one with alligator clips on either side is what I use.  Makes things a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach the alligator clip to the yellow wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Turn the ignition switch to the 'ON' position and wait a few seconds for the start procedure to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Attach the lead to the batter negative (ground)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Watch your FI light.  It will begin to blink long and short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 6&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You will now interpret the flashes into a numerical value using the following table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9R1mI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interpreting Error Codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FI light will be flashing long and short blinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long blinks represent 10 through 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short blinks represent 1-9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get three long flashes followed by 4 short the error code would 34 and you can reference on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:44:51.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24448" CreationDate="2016-01-13T10:02:32.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it, the risk is that, in the course of normal operation, the battery releases hydrogen gas, and if there is a spark close to the battery, this gas could ignite and cause an explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you connect a set of jump leads to the car, there is a chance of a spark as the second lead is connected and the circuit completed - and as you should always connect positive first, this risk can be avoided by connecting the second, negative, lead elsewhere in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T10:02:32.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24620" CreationDate="2016-01-13T10:30:13.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It's Flüsterasphalt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(literaly &lt;em&gt;whisper asphalt&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@DucatiKiller has already given a nice answer about a concrete version of this, however, this is really asphalt and is also processed more or less like standard asphalt (Lots of heat etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one and only reason why this is used here in Germany is to reduce the noise of the wheels on the road, and it really makes a big difference, even on a dry road. It seems there's no noise from the wheels any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars make even more noise on a road with water on it, but this is completely swallowed, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, having no water on the road is safer, too: Better visibility (see your pics) and more grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That point of @DucatiKillers answer about cars with worn tires was never discussed here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The draw back of Flüsterasphalt is that the pores will clog up over time with dirt and rubbed-off material from the wheels, so the noise reduction effect doesn't last very long. Another point is that water enters the asphalt and can break it up when it freezes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's said that Flüsterasphalt lasts for about 8 years, while standard asphalt lasts up to 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Near cologne, they used this asphalt a couple of years ago, but next year, they already have to exchange it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ah, and by the way: Some cities like mine now start to use it on big roads in the center of the city. But at the low speed limit there, noise of the wheel usually isn't an issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T10:30:13.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24448" CreationDate="2016-01-13T10:55:36.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignition of gas by sparks is clearly what everyone is talking about here.&#xA;The argument about connecting the terminals first before plugging in the charger is not really a protection from sparks.  If the charger is not plugged in, there will be a brief flow of current from the battery to the charger which could in theory cause a spark.  This could be due to a capacitance inside the charger, or even capacitance between the charger cables.  Likewise when it comes to disconnecting the charger cables, depending on the design of the charger, there could still be a small current flowing into the charger if the charger was unplugged, which could in theory cause a spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the negative connection made away from the battery would remove any possible spark from the location of any ignitable gas and so would remove the chance of an explosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the charging current is relatively small, there should be no problem connecting the negative terminal to a clean remote location, since there will be minimal voltage drop between the remote location and the battery terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T10:55:36.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24629" CreationDate="2016-01-13T11:36:47.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the thermostat is stuck open. The coolant/engine won't heat up fully and you'll get cool coolant through your heater core. In most vehicles (and I'm pretty sure this is how the Dodge Ram's work) the coolant goes from the engine to the heater core directly. If the engine is running cold due to an open thermostat, only cooler coolant will be making it to the core. Your description of the heater putting out warm air when sitting still, then going cool after rolling fits right into this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T11:36:47.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24653" CreationDate="2016-01-13T11:42:21.007" Score="7" ViewCount="2174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that engine coolant is a fluid in the engine used to dissipate heat spots and keep the engine cool in general as the moving parts generate heat. In this context, I would call the oil an &quot;engine coolant&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found out what happens when a cars engine &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil-in-a-car-engine&quot;&gt;doesn't have enough oil&lt;/a&gt; in it, which results in overheating among other things. But there is also a radiator in most cars to keep the engine coolant cool. However, due to the fact that oil is too viscous at cold and engine temperature to pass quickly through the thin pipes leading to the radiator to be cooled down by a massive fan. This is where another type of engine coolant comes in - a water based substance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How does the cooling system work (i.e. how is heat passed from oil to water or air)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there one pump  for the entire cooling system (explain?) or two separate pumps (i.e. one loop for oil, one for water based substance) or more?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is supposedly referred to when someone says &quot;engine coolant&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Oil? The water based substance? Air? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are all fluids and they all serve the same purpose after all (I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T01:26:30.670" Title="What exactly is meant by &quot;engine coolant&quot;?" Tags="|engine|oil|coolant|cooling-system|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24448" CreationDate="2016-01-13T11:55:24.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;best&quot; thing you can do is not use the crock clips on the battery while in the vehicle in the first place. Most trickle charges come with a permanently mounted set of leads, like you can see in this Black &amp;amp; Decker version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KIUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KIUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture you can see three different types of leads (as looked at from the standpoint of the common attachment lead):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top: Crock clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle: Permanently mounted leads &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom: Cigarette lighter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the permanently mounted leads provide you protection from several aspects. First, you can attach them to any point in the electrical system which provides a good ground (negative lead) and hot (positive lead). When attached to the charger, this will provide for the charging needs. Secondly, since the common attachment lead completely encloses when connected, there's no worry of an open spark occurring. If placed in an accessible place, you wouldn't even need to open the hood of a vehicle to get this attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the crock clips directly on a battery which is not located in the vehicle. Use the cigarette lighter version for a quick attachment source. Use the permanently mounted ones for a quick disconnect under the hood without the need for fumbling with either of the other two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T11:55:24.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24651" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:16:54.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple And Technical Definition Of Coolant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a technician's standpoint &quot;engine coolant&quot; would be referring to the 50/50 mix of ethylene/polypropylene glycol and water. From an engineers standpoint engine coolant would TECHNICALLY be anything that assists the system in the cooling process. So, in this case you could refer to the fans, oil, and Anti-freeze (The 50/50 mix) as &quot;coolant&quot;. By definition coolant is any liquid or gas that can be utilized to maintain a desired temperature for any situation needed. Technically &quot;air&quot; is a gas of sorts. Fans moving air in a manner that would cool down your engine bay, could be considered a coolant. Not to get to technical, but you asked =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your average Joe says coolant, they mean the Anti-freeze (50/50 Mix stated above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost every car made from the early 60's, you have pumps for the propulsion of various fluids.&#xA;The two main pumps are &quot;water pumps&quot; and &quot;oil pumps&quot;. The water pump moves the coolant throughout the engine block, head, and air conditioning heating system. The oil pump moves oil throughout the engine block and head to provide lubrication, cleaning and sometimes pressure to certain internal components that may need it. These systems typically do &quot;Loop&quot;. The most common return for oil passages are held within the head. The oil pools up just enough to reach holes that take it back to the bottom of the engine. Coolant typically runs on a circuit as well. How these are routed is very specific to the engine manufacturer. 99 percent of the time you have one oil pump and one water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Dispersion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that your engine Anti-freeze does the majority of work. The reason is because the rate at which it circulates is far quicker than oil. It also has its own cooling assistance (The radiator). The entire system by nature is designed to handle the brunt of the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil does its part as well, but in a bit of a different way. Oil keeps the system cool by minimizing friction. The less friction, the less heat. As a fluid substance it has a good amount of potential to release heat, so it does that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air as explained above carries its purposes. Most manufactures use the grill or face of the car to route air into the radiator and engine bay. They also use air spoilers to route air into the engine bay. The ambient temperature at which an engine &quot;lives&quot; is actually very impacting on how well the engine can stay at its desired temperature. Not all engines do this though, it depends on the rate at which the engine turns and it's stresses. &#xA;Hope this helps you understand a bit better, and I hope I answered your question well enough =)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T16:28:39.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:28:39.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2016-01-13T12:22:43.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to all of the other good answers here, especially bad coolant temp sensor or thermostat, obstructed emissions, ignition related (anything from coil(s) to plugs, timing, MAP sensor, brake problems, etc., here are some other common problems: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad EGR valve, oxygen sensor(s), fuel pressure problem or bad fuel pressure regulator, dirty or defective IAC valve, vacuum leak(s) including a bad pcv valve (if you pull it out of the valve cover and shake it, you should hear it rattle- if not it's bad), very clogged air filter and sometimes even a bad ecm.  Low compression can cause a lot of fuel consumption, too.  This can be caused by a number of issues. e.g.- change your oil+filter as required people! It's so easy and prevents BIG problems!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum leaks can easily be identified by a smoke machine or even just blowing cigar smoke into a vacuum line (engine off).  Watch to see where smoke escapes and if you need to refine the location further, spray some carb cleaner in the area to see if engine idle changes or stalls altogether (engine on and a FIRE EXTINGUISHER READY just in case).  That's your leak.  Check around intake manifold gasket while you're at it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there are other obvious accompanying symptoms that may suggest otherwise (like hearing ceramic chunks rattling in the cat or an obvious vacuum leak howl or high-pitched screech), you should always check fuel pressure first.  Low pressure could be the pump relay or pump itself, clogged lines, or clogged filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that, if you're in a location with consistent 0-degree-or-below weather, you use at least 5w30 or maybe even 0w30.  Best to check your manual if available for that info.  Even weather aside, newer vehicles may require lower viscosity oil anyway so check manuals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not but if your tranny is slipping then that can cause more-than-normal fuel consumption, too.  I won't go into how unless someone asks, but it should be kind of obvious anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, failing struts and steering problems can cause excessive fuel consumption for similar reasons as tranny slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mustangguy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T12:49:08.107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T12:49:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:25:39.760" Score="3" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please tell me the OBD-II protocol of Mahindra KUV 100 (diesel) and Suzuki Alto (diesel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also whether ELM 327 Bluetooth will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.in/itm/SuperMini-ELM-327-Bluetooth-v2-1-mini-EOBD-2-CAN-BUS-OBD2-CAR-Reader-Scanner-/111193354036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.in/itm/SuperMini-ELM-327-Bluetooth-v2-1-mini-EOBD-2-CAN-BUS-OBD2-CAR-Reader-Scanner-/111193354036&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:39:35.617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:39:35.617" Title="Mahindra KUV 100 and Suzuki Alto OBD protocol" Tags="|obd-ii|diesel|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24657" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:40:15.937" Score="6" ViewCount="7572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently watched a video of guys racing and drifting cars. They said they were converting the vehicle to a non-assisted steering system. I can't really figure out what advantage this would give you, especially in a drifting situation. I've drag raced and drifted and you need to be able to easily manhandle the steering wheel. I've never heard of someone doing this, but is there a reason why someone would want a non power steering system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T11:05:28.750" Title="Are there any advantages to &quot;manual&quot; steering?" Tags="|power-steering|racing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24656" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:03:31.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feedback is the name of the game. I have been driving a car with manual steering for over a year now, and I can say that manual steering gives you much more feedback when compared to assisted steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is feedback?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90% of the time on everyday commuting, feedback isn't worth a dime, unless you are an enthusiast, but when you are on a track day, proper feedback from your tires lets you brake late. You will start to know when exactly you are losing the traction of the tires and you can safely pull away without slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words you will know what the heck your tires are doing at any moment, as there is nothing in between to mess up the chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this feedback is worthless in city commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another small advantage is that your power steering pump won't leak, and there's weight reduction due to lack of components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, you don't have to go to a gym to build strong arms, although you might end up looking like Johnny Bravo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic assisted steering is the next step; it uses a hydraulic pump to assist the steering. It's much better than manual steering 90% of the time, but reduces the feedback of the tires, and taxes the engine for power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electronic power steering is a piece of crap. You don't even feel like driving a car, but sad to say that it's the best when commuting. 3-point turns are a breeze and parallel parking is like eating a pie. Negatives are that you don't have the slightest idea of what your tires are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Advice: Get Hydraulic assisted steering; it hits the sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:52:39.333" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:52:39.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24635" CreationDate="2016-01-13T14:32:43.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a failing coil, which will inevitably lead to a complete fail at some point soon.  Very easy to test.  I think for you it's under the distributor cap.  And I think they even reported a large group complaint for distributor-related components this model.  If out of spec, that's your problem.  What you explained was very similar to what happened to me once and this was the problem.  It was very easy to diagnose so it's worth a try.  Look at this site for details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://repairpal.com/ignition-coil-inside-distributor-may-fail-013#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://repairpal.com/ignition-coil-inside-distributor-may-fail-013#&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next test fuel pressure from cold start to warm up.  Then shut off, start again and recheck.  Compare all results with spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention if you got any codes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mustangguy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:32:43.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24231" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:10:34.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things to consider when purchasing a used vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most dealers will provide a Vehicle Report. You can request them on privately sold vehicles as well. If the seller denies you this option then it might be a sign that you should look else where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Documents to look for:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reports can tell you multiple things about your vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accident, collision and damage details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lein Status&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Registration Branding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stolen Vehicle Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import Status&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Misc Records&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle inspection:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time when looking over the vehicle you are interested in. Look for surface damage, rust, and anything out of the ordinary. When you are looking in the trunk, remove the carpet/matting to see if there is any damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the same for the driver and passenger side doors. Pull the carpet until you can see the floor pan to assure that it is solid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your rocker panels. They are usually the first thing to go in the snow belt, aside from various parts of the frame, depending on the vehicle of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great to see the underside of the vehicle. This is more tricky when you are buying from a private seller. You would be best to have a friend who is a mechanic so you can use their hoist to take a look at it. If the seller denies you this option, then proceed with caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the vehicle is on the hoist look for any damage to the frame, exhaust system and brake lines. The vehicle will not pass safety if there is significant damage to either. Aside from that, you wouldn't want to drive a death trap anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These same principles will apply to motorcycles as well, with one exception. Do not purchase a bike with frame damage if your intent is to ride it without investing time and money to fabricate. It doesn't matter how &quot;sweat&quot; the deal is. Structural damage on a bike is a little different than on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the interior for noticeable damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tests&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your circle check, inspect everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Functional Doors and Locks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dash Warning Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights/Signals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heater/AC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirror adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipers/Windshield Washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio/Speakers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen to how it sounds  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it shift right?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the exhaust extremely loud?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you feel any vibrations, etc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Determining price&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is subjective, there are things you can do to assess this. In Canada we have what is called the Black Book where you can view vehicles and their values through different conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/?mktcat=genauto&amp;amp;kw=pricing%20new%20cars&amp;amp;mktid=ga244487&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAiNi0BRDaobaq3dKJhrwBEiQAyVThzTpcn_Kr87lS1uBNp9fFT_38n07Bqc0-ziCRMFVh_BMaApPO8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edmunds&lt;/a&gt;. Do your best to assess condition when viewing a vehicle, as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:10:34.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:28:19.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are hearing is a defective VTC (Variable Timing Control) actuator, which in part controls the oil pressure. It is defective in 10&amp;quot;s of thousands of Honda 4 cylinder engines built between 08 and 13. It is mentioned in Honda TSB 09-010. Honda will not fix this problem. The cars with this issue are worth very little in trade, and the defect may eventually lead to engine failure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14283" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T20:04:07.543" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T20:04:07.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24663" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:32:23.780" Score="6" ViewCount="5546" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I've been learning more about cars, I keep hearing about how manufacturers are conservative with ECU settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For someone who isn't into racing, but would like a bit better performance out of his daily-driver, what's the cost of reprogramming the ECU to do things like improve the air/fuel mixture, and/or adjusting the timing to accommodate premium fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:05:08.453" Title="What is the cost/benefit for reprogramming an ECU for a non-enthusiast?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|flash-programing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24448" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:41:10.820" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as everyone is stating, a spark igniting hydrogen gas could cause an explosion, causing injury from small parts, sulfuric acid or both.  Very nasty.  Hydrogen gas is a byproduct of electrical energy created from a chemical reaction of lead plates submerged into the acid and water.  Sparks can happen internally, too.  Like when the lead plates warp from water evaporating out.  This is why some are cynical about 'sealed' cells on an unmaintainable lead acid battery.  Spark wouldn't necessary come from jumper cables or charger cables in this case, though, but rather simply attempting to start the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed like there were a couple of specific questions you had that I will attempt to answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't attach negative clip to the neg terminal on the dead battery unless you want the car's wiring removed from the battery.  Attach to clean, unpainted part of frame or engine block bolt.  This will keep any possible spark or spark arcing away from the potential gas.  The contradictory part of whatever website you wrote from in your original question post was obviously either a mistake or the part where it spoke of attaching to the negative terminal was describing the process of jump-starting from a charged battery to a dead one.  In that case you always attach dead-side first, with negative clamped to frame or engine, but the positive and negative attached to their perspective terminals on the charged battery (on the other side of cables).  Again, the exception is if you remove the car's wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you go from dead to charged is to reduce the risk of spark.  You can't take the risk of spark away completely, which is why it's better to attach the negative clip away from neg battery terminal.  Same principal with a charger.  Don't plug into power until clips are clipped.  Just like going from dead to charged when charging from another battery, don't plug in charger until clips are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question I think you had was if there are other types of automotive batteries that don't have this risk.  The answer is that unless it is lithium ion (or similar) batteries found in hybrid/electric cars or sometimes found in an emergency kit, they will ALL be some kind of lead acid type, even though there are a few different kinds of lead-acid batteries in use.  They all hold the same risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a credible source regarding a study that took place with lead-acid batteries and explosions.  It also includes all the other information I stated above about safety measures like hooking the negative to frame or block instead of terminal and the reasons for these safety measures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://articles.latimes.com/1999/aug/26/news/hw-3902&quot;&gt;http://articles.latimes.com/1999/aug/26/news/hw-3902&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: additional info for an additional question.  Should car wiring be removed from terminals before charging the battery?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a double-edged sword so you'll have to ultimately decide for yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working on the electrical system for repairs, you should remove the negative cable off of the terminal, anyway, so you don't accidentally short a circuit and damage an electrical component.  The problem with cutting the car's circuit is that many ECU/PCU units have adaptive learning to help it control everything and disconnecting the circuit will force it to 'relearn' timing, shifting, etc.**   This is due to Keep Alive Memory (KAM), a chip that stores information, which will erase when disconnecting a car's circuit from it's electrical source.  The problems can vary from simply waiting for the 'relearn' process to even having to perform manual resets with a scan tool in order to get certain functions working again.  Worst-case scenarios can require replacement of ECU altogether in order to get certain functions working again.  Worst-case scenarios are usually only possible with early 2000's and later.  (90's won't have these problems but still may need to relearn engine cycles, tranny shifting, etc.).  There are pocket lists that specify specific problems with specific models out there, but you probably won't find one big, conclusive list for all problems with all models, so research on your specific model is always a good idea.  There are KAM savers that plug into a cigarette lighter and use a 9-volt battery to Keep the KAM chip from erasing info while the battery is disconnected, but this will only be helpful if you can complete the repairs before the 9-volt battery is drained, maybe 30 minutes, +/-.  Obviously, this won't help while charging the battery.  So that is the downside to removing the cables from the battery to charge it.  That and the risk of spark increases.  Also, if you remove the cables, you have to connect the charger's ground clamp directly to the negative terminal on the battery instead of the frame or block.  My previous edit stated otherwise and, after rereading it, I realized the error in that statement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of removing the cables is that it will be impossible for a power surge to damage anything electrical-related in your car.  Since the battery charger is plugged into A/C current, surges can obviously cause electrical damage.  That's why I say the answer is a double-edged sword, because there are risks either way you go.  If it were me, I'd keep the cables connected while charging, but use a GOOD surge protector for the charging device.  By good I don't mean a $10 cheapie.  If you keep the cables connected, follow this process: Plug the charger's positive clip onto the positive battery terminal.  Then plug the negative clip onto the frame or engine block as far away from the battery as possible.  Then plug the charger into a good surge protector, followed by plugging the surge protector to the wall outlet.  Then turn the charger's switch on.  Lastly, turn the surge protector's switch on.  If it doesn't have one, buy a good one that does have a switch.  A few final points: It's safer to use a lower amperage charger, between 2-6 amps, than to use a faster charger.  It's bad for your charging system if you don't charge the battery completely, so be sure the charging process is complete.  Lastly, I believe it IS necessary to have the car's ground cable connected to the negative battery terminal for the charger to charge it IF you clip the charger's ground to the frame or block.  If you want the cable removed, you'll have to connect The clip directly to the battery.  I'm sorry if reading my previous edit was misleading.  If you decide to remove the cables, the negative cable ALWAYS goes first to prevent accidentally creating a complete circuit with a tool, jewelry, etc.  Always use eye protection while working with the battery.  I hope this answered your questions to your satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**This adaptive learning can throw some people off after improving their vehicle performance.  For example, say you complete a post-coil(s) ignition system overhaul.  This will improve spark efficiency, which will subsequently advance timing.  The ECU is used to the more retarded timing and will have to learn the improved cycling.  This can fool some people into thinking they did something wrong but, if you just drive it around for a while, it will eventually relearn the more efficient timing.  This process can vary widely, from 25 to 100+ miles.  It may even take a few days of separate start-ups.  During the process, you may experience erratic idling and acceleration, alarming exhaust, etc.  Unless it's extremely obvious there's a problem with the work that was done or the problems don't go away, it should clear up on its own.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mustangguy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T01:22:51.407" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:22:51.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24661" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:48:04.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't necessarily re-program an ECU that is stock from factory. There are a few aftermarket ECUs that you can buy though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that particular vehicle it won't make too much difference. You can tune the crap out of it, but it won't increase torque or horsepower by much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general from my experience the only time people tune stock or naturally aspirated vehicles is to fine tune their power output. Some Hondas actually grab some good power from an aftermarket tune. The Hyundai Delta and Lambda engines benefit decently from an aftermarket tuning as well. You would usually see naturally aspirated aftermarket tunes on vehicles that have ITBs (individual throttle-bodies), lightweight pulleys, lightweight clutch and flywheel, &quot;Cams&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car is literally just a stock engine, you wouldn't really gain too much power. If it had a turbo that came with it stock, that's a different story. &#xA;This is purely from a perspective of cost versus power. It's just not cost effective if you don't want to do more work to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to throw a turbo or supercharger in it, or do some VERY serious engine work; It's worth it. Haltech and MegaSquirt make affordable ECU's. You have to wire them in yourself though, so if you're not too familiar with work like that I would avoid doing it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a little extra noticeable performance, I would try some of the other things I mentioned above. If you're satisfied with that and want more, throw a turbo in there. If you're not interested in racing, there are alot of other things you can do to increase power that don't involve HOURS of wiring and hundreds of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wondering about cost V.s. labor V.s. increase in performance, let me explain a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can port everything that involves the intake, which will cost you around $150. You can get lightweight pulleys, which depending on the rarity of them may cost you around $40 - $80 usually.... There are extremely cheap exhausts that serve the same purpose as expensive ones. I've seen them usually around $200. You can get cold air intakes around $60 (Which is a topic of it's own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the things you could do that would increase power and response noticeably. All of that combined would probably be the same as the ECU and most likely yield more power and response. If you add all of that up you're going to spend at most $600 for a decent gain. If you buy an ECU, you'll spend $900 for VERY little. The plus side of this is that if you spend the money ahead of time doing these things, when you do decide to upgrade your ECU; It will be able to utilize the engine even more so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as time for installation, if done in a single day by someone who knows cars decently; It should only take a couple hours at a time. The porting and polishing of your intake runners and heads will take a while, but it's something you can do yourself. You just need some soft Dremel attachments and some youtube videos lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of it's easy to do. If it was me on that particular vehicle, I would get all of the fun stuff first. Once you have all of it then tune it liberally =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T16:58:10.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:58:10.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24612" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:51:32.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check out your clutch. When do you feel pressure on the clutch pedal? If anything you may have a small leak in your clutch lines or the master cylinder. Mine did this too, where it was hard to get it into 1st gear. Its because my clutch wasn't disengaging all the way. So I filled it up on clutch fluid (brake fluid) and bleed the clutch and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:51:32.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23788" CreationDate="2016-01-13T15:59:58.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens to me too, it's really nothing to worry about, just release the clutch, then depress it and shift into first, same with reverse, if its hard to get it in reverse, just wiggle the shifter around side to side in neutral and then try it, sould work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T15:59:58.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24806" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:02:49.647" Score="3" ViewCount="15138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a used 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi with 108k miles. I &amp;quot;tested&amp;quot; the wipers before purchase and they &amp;quot;Worked&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;Worked&amp;quot; mean I turned them on they wiped a few times and I turned them off. It started to rain recently and I need my wipers and have noticed intermittent failure and/or incorrect wiping speeds. Sometimes when they are on ANY setting they wipe super fast. Other times they wipe as expected, though the super fast is by far the prevalent symptom. Today they began stopping mid-wipe and I had to turn them off and on again at the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a motorhead or person of knowledge when it comes to vehicles and am not sure where to start troubleshooting. I suspect it isn't a fuse as it works most of the time, albeit incorrectly. I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5047/windshield-wipers-worked-intermittently-then-quit-altogether&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4156/why-do-my-wipers-only-operate-at-high-speed&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and I have both symptoms at times but my vehicle isn't the same (don't know if that matters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any ideas of how to troubleshoot the root cause of my wiper malfunctioning?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warmer temperatures remove the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T19:19:49.113" Title="Abnormal wiper speeds and intermittent failure of wipers, 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab" Tags="|dodge|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21771" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:07:04.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anti-squeal spray (worthless) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding pads &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding rotors &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually changed the (apparently) good pads, and the squealing went away. Even though they had plenty of pad left, I think they were the original pads on the car making them about 12 years old (I got the car with only 31K miles). Maybe that was it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:07:04.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23788" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:57:25.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite a common 'feature' of cheap cars, don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Hyundai Getz that does this far more often. It happens when the teeth on the synchro ring for first don't line up properly or, if you're really unlucky, you have no synchro at all on first and the teeth on the gears are lined up wrong. Engaging 2nd or releasing the clutch will rotate the gear so that the teeth are lined up differently and you've got another chance at engaging it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's any consolation, the success rate for getting an old Getz into 1st while you're moving is low, I've taken to double-clutching it for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T16:57:25.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24635" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:11:07.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in the Honda world, these are the classic symptoms of a failing PGM-FI (Programmable Fuel Injection) main relay, which controls power for the fuel injection system and the fuel pump. Vibrations cause the solder points on the relay crack over time, leading to intermittent failures. Failures can be exacerbated when the relay is warm, either through prevailing weather conditions, and/or the extra resistance introduced to the circuit by the poor connections, generating heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relay (in a Honda), is under the dash, somewhere above the drivers knees. They can usually be removed in &amp;lt; 10 minutes with simple hand tools. You can either use a multimeter and test it, following the manufacturers procedure for doing so, or swap in a new one quickly and see if it solves the problem (You can always return the new relay afterwards if it doesn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:11:07.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24568" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:15:37.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say the chain jumped timing. Was the car running when you disassembled it? Or did you have a tow truck bring it in? If you were stranded you may have damaged cylinder head valves. Do a compression test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:15:37.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24361" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:38:40.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Correct Tire Pressures&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Random832 mentioned in the comments, the information for my 2004 VW Passat B5 &lt;em&gt;was not&lt;/em&gt; in the door jam of the drivers' side, but rather it was actually on the inside of my fuel filler lid. Here is what it looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNjce.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNjce.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel Lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the pressure here varies for the approximate amount of weight that the car is carrying, but also the pressure is only in bar. Given that &lt;strong&gt;1 Bar = 14.5038 PSI&lt;/strong&gt; (Pounds-Force per Square Inch) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=bar+to+psi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;approximately&lt;/a&gt;, here are the manufacturer recommended tire pressures for my 2004 VW Passat B5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+--------+-------------+------------+&#xA;| Weight | Front Tires | Rear Tires |&#xA;+--------+-------------+------------+&#xA;| Light  |          30 |         28 |&#xA;+--------+-------------+------------+&#xA;| Heavy  |          33 |         42 |&#xA;+--------+-------------+------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All values in the table are recorded in PSI and rounded to the nearest integer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sidewall Markings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Paulster2 mentioned, the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;PSI markings on the sidewalls were maximum values&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and should never be filled to this pressure for normal driving usage. The design of the car was not optimised for these higher tire pressures. It could also be dangerous if your tires are at the maximum and you drive over a large pothole of something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Temperature&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the air temperature increases, the tiny air particles gain kinetic (movement) energy. They move faster at higher temperatures, which results in more &lt;em&gt;successful particle collisions&lt;/em&gt; as long as volume remains constant (which it would be inside an automotive car tire). The energised air particles can not disperse at they are trapped (for the most part) inside the car tire and this causes an increase in pressure. In other words pressure is directly proportional to temperature (P α T).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pressure increases by 10 degrees Celsius, the pressure will increase approximately 2-3 PSI. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24223/cold-temperatures-and-tire-pressure-light&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; (the approved answer) for a really nice graph and more details on the subject of car tire temperatures and the effect that has on tire pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:38:40.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1378" CreationDate="2016-01-13T17:42:32.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more likely that you (Cooked) the sender unit for the oil gauge. Making it read improperly. Heat can damage alot of things on a motor. Also most later model cars have a (Low) pressure safety threshold. (ie) if the oil sensor is cooked and does not register enough oil pressure at turn over' The car will never start. This is easy to see on a functioning car. Just pull the wire off of the oil sender and the car will not start... By the way this is (Very) old technology. I discovered it by accident. Changing the oil in a 1974 Vega Wagon.&#xA;I knocked the sender unit wire off reaching the oil filter...  After the car would not start I began to do a visual inspection and found the wire disconnected. After plugging it back in. The car started as usual. Just some food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14284" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T17:42:32.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:31:29.157" Score="7" ViewCount="2618" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow-up from my initial question which can be found here : &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24494/ltft-and-stft-values-are-off-and-dont-make-sense&quot;&gt;LTFT and STFT values are off and don&amp;#39;t make sense&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car : BMW 2015 F10 M5&#xA;Modifications : Eisenmann Race Catback Exhaust, MSR Cold Air Intake. Everything else stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary of my problem is, LTFT values between Bank 1 and 2 are inconsistent where Bank 2 is 10% or more lower (-4% vs -14%) throughout the lower RPM band. At WOT, LTFTs line up and stay equal and behave normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zaid has been incredibly helpful and we narrowed it down to the aftermarket exhaust I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there is one big difference between the stock exhaust and the aftermarket one and that is the use of flaps. Each muffler (there are two) has 2 pipes (so 4 pipes total) where 1 pipe on each side has a flap connected to it that is operated by a valve. The valve is connected to a vacuum line. In the stock exhaust, at low RPMs, to reduce noise as well as reduce turbo lag and increase low and torque, the flap is closed increasing the backpressure. Over 3,500 rpm (or around that), the flaps open up. The aftermarket exhausts have no flaps (not just mine but a lot of others) and the standard installation procedure is that they zip tie the vacuum lines and plug them as well (mine has bolts plugged). So in an aftermarket scenario, car operates as if the flaps were always open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the eisenmann muffler right next to the stock muffler : &lt;a href=&quot;https://eisenmannblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/8182708317_10988d68b2_h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eisenmannblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/8182708317_10988d68b2_h.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the eisenmann muffler on the car : &lt;a href=&quot;http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8206133927_6b3bec97bb_b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8206133927_6b3bec97bb_b.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory we have at the moment is the lack of flaps is causing this rich condition I am seeing. What I don't understand is why this is happening on one side of the exhaust not the other. So far I have done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check both exhausts and where they are clamped, clamps are extremely tight, and there is a good maybe 4-5 inches of stock exhaust inside the aftermarket pipe (after market slips on), so there is no way a leak can happen at the connection points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the vacuum lines on both sides, they are both zip tied and plugged with a bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the intake installation many times, no air leaks, all clamps are securely fastened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check turbo inlets and charge pipes, no cracks or air leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning the exhaust back to stock is not something I want to do. I spent several hours adjusting the tips of the aftermarket exhaust so that all 4 looked identical. Without knowing for sure, I dont want to touch it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T17:46:36.263" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T17:46:36.263" Title="Exhaust Backpressure and Its Impact on LTFT Values" Tags="|engine-theory|bmw|exhaust|fuel-trims|rich|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T18:56:08.613" Score="4" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to replace the boots on my 99 Almera MTX ( same as the Sentra ) and I got all the way to the point of pulling the axle out of the tranny but I couldn't get it out. I tried to pry it out with a screwdriver like in the Haynes manual, but I bent the screw driver more than once and just couldn't get it out. Also tried rotating the axle a bunch of times &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jydxpsh13WQ?t=6m40s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like recommended in one of EricTheCarGuy's vids&lt;/a&gt;. I did not hit it like he did, I just pushed with constant force to pry like it says in the Haynes manual. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says in the Haynes manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Separate the relevant driveshaft from the transmission, using a suitable lever inserted between the casing of the inner constant velocity joint and the transmission casing. Prise out the driveshaft until the retaining circlip compresses into its groove, and is released from the differential sun gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T02:02:36.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T02:09:02.827" Title="Couldn't Get the Axle Out" Tags="|nissan|axle|almera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24666" CreationDate="2016-01-13T19:26:50.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need a new wiper module. Direct from OE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiper Module - The wiper pivot shafts are the only visible components of the wiper module. The remainder of the module is concealed within the cowl plenum area beneath the cowl plenum cover/grille panel. The wiper module includes the wiper module bracket, four rubber-isolated wiper module mounts, the wiper motor, the wiper motor crank arm, the two wiper drive links, and the two wiper pivots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiper module cannot be adjusted or repaired. If any component of the module is faulty or damaged, the entire wiper module unit must be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiper module operation is controlled by the battery current inputs received by the wiper motor through the wiper on/off and wiper high/low relays. The wiper motor speed is controlled by current flow to either the low speed or the high speed set of brushes. The park switch is a single pole, single throw, momentary switch within the wiper motor that is mechanically actuated by the wiper motor transmission components. The park switch alternately opens and closes the wiper park switch sense circuit to ground, depending upon the position of the wipers on the glass. This feature allows the motor to complete its current wipe cycle after the wiper system has been turned Off, and to park the wiper blades in the lowest portion of the wipe pattern. The automatic resetting circuit breaker protects the motor from overloads. The wiper motor crank arm, the two wiper linkage members, and the two wiper pivots mechanically convert the rotary output of the wiper motor to the back and forth wiping motion of the wiper arms and blades on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13035" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:26:50.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2016-01-13T19:39:02.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gut reaction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went straight to fluid dynamics. It is likely that the aftermarket exhaust is made of larger diameter piping. Increasing the cross sectional area of a pipe will, all other things being equal, reduce the flow rate of a fluid through the pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exhaust is likely tuned for high RPM performance, when the engine needs to move a higher volume of exhaust gasses, and larger piping is needed. At low RPMs however, with a smaller volume of exhaust gas being expelled, the larger piping may have a detrimental effect, slowing the velocity of the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could feasibly slow enough that your O2 sensors read a higher concentration of gas and presume that the engine mixture is off. It would explain why things level out under WOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:39:02.477" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24681" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:06:56.417" Score="26" ViewCount="507284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw the answers to a question I posted recently highlighting the disadvantages of having &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil-in-a-car-engine&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;too little oil&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in an engine&lt;/a&gt;, but that got me wondering what if the complete opposite were to occur!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that having an excess amount of oil in the engine is a terrible idea, but I don't actually know why. It seems to me like the excess oil would eliminate at least some of the disadvantages to not having enough oil (like for example the parts would not rub and create friction because there would be plenty of lubrication). Due to this, I am guessing that having too much oil would have &lt;em&gt;very different&lt;/em&gt; disadvantages to not having enough oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we imagine that for whatever reason, the engine was full of oil (and I mean literally full to the brim, you can't fit any more in it unless you pour it all over the engine bay):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the disadvantages to having way too much oil in the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do the disadvantages differ from those that occur from not having enough oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the engine last longer than the same engine would with way too little oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Not a Duplicate&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked post does not answer my questions fully, here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The accepted answer only says to take out the oil but doesn't really explain the damage that can be caused&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paulster2 said &quot;you can cause damage to the crank and rods themselves&quot; but I don't necessarily understand why so I thought I'd ask a question rather than just adding a comment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He also said that some of the moving parts hit the oil 20 times a second, but I thought they did that anyway!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second answer down, which starts to make some good points, could do with some clearer explanation as I'm not sure that I understand it fully&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the answers do not provide as much explicit detail as I am looking for in the answer to this question (they are quite short for the most part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This question also has a framework of what happens internally to an engine and what the side effects are as well as component of what the fundamental differences are regarding effects when compared to lack of oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, I asked this question in order to build a theoretical understanding of the problem. The other page suggests how to fix an overfilled engine (practical application)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T17:34:00.110" Title="What actually happens when there is way too much oil in a car engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|engine-theory|service|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24679" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:14:51.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an engine is that full, it will pump oil through systems it shouldn't, such as the PCV system into the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piston rings, even in a fresh engine, always have at least a minimal amount of blow-by from combustion. Normally these combustion products pressurize the crankcase slightly and then vent through the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system into the intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the PCV Valve is intended to stop direct oil flow, we know from the use of PCV Catch Cans that some motor oil gets through in the best of circumstances. If the valve cover is full of oil as the OP describes, even more will get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCV system terminates in the Intake Manifold, so the oil will be added to combustion mix, fouling spark plugs and increasing unburnt carbon emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T14:42:47.257" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:42:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24679" CreationDate="2016-01-13T20:43:44.957" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;With way too much engine oil in the engine, the problem is that the crankshaft can hit the oil in the bottom of the crankcase when the engine is running.  Since the crankshaft is spinning fast, even at idle, each time it slaps the surface of the oil, it will create some bubbles in the oil as the air just behind the spinning crankshaft lobe gets dragged under the surface of the oil.  It doesn't take long to get a whole lot of bubbles and the engine oil becomes all frothy and full of bubbles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all oil pumps are designed to pump liquid rather than (compressible) gas, even though the pump is still operating, it's literally sucking air instead of pumping vital engine oil.  The net effect is that the oil doesn't get delivered to the places it's supposed to go, so a gross excess of engine oil can &lt;strong&gt;kill your engine&lt;/strong&gt; by the &lt;em&gt;exact same cause&lt;/em&gt; as not having enough engine oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you put in, say, a quart too much, it's probably not going to be a problem (depending on the type and capacity of the engine).  If you put twice as much in (I've heard of people doing this because they forgot that they &lt;em&gt;already replaced the oil&lt;/em&gt; and do it again!) it's almost certainly going to kill the engine unless corrected before the engine runs for very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T20:43:44.957" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24689" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:23:32.320" Score="9" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have gathered, a &quot;head gasket&quot; is an important part of the engine on most cars, but that is about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What&lt;/strong&gt; is a head gasket?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where&lt;/strong&gt; is a head gasket?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why&lt;/strong&gt; is it necessary?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T21:50:27.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:49:18.493" Title="What exactly is a head gasket?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24702" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:32:21.183" Score="6" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those phrases I have heard a lot but never bothered to ask what it meant. Until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is an intake manifold?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T03:41:01.570" Title="What exactly is an intake manifold?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:35:11.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Possible Culprits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal for fuel trims to be slightly different, but a 10% bank imbalance on a car that still smells like Munich seems odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things which affect fuel trims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the physical system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are confident that both intake and exhaust are air-tight then we will have to cross them off the list of potential causes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the integrity of the sensors/injectors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24675/exhaust-backpressure-and-its-impact-on-ltft-values#comment37773_24678&quot;&gt;This comment of yours&lt;/a&gt; about a slow response from Bank 2 has me wondering whether you have a lazy O2 sensor. It's the only thing I can think of right now, since that is the only bank-specific sensor which provides feedback for fuel trim correction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to Test&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea here is to confirm the slow response of Bank 2 O2 sensors compared to Bank 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll ideally need some graphing capability. A scope or an OBD-II app with graphing functionality. Pull up Bank 1 and Bank 2 STFT's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introduce some propane gas into the intake of each bank to induce a negative STFT. Look for differences in response time and STFT magnitude. Based on your description, I'm expecting the STFT for Bank 2 to change more slowly and/or register a bigger % difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:35:11.490" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24687" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:51:48.207" Score="7" ViewCount="103765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got Chevy Cobalt 2007 with key stuck in ignition and dead battery. The battery is located in the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trunk could be opened either using the button (oh no, cannot do that because the battery is dead) or using the key (oh no, cannot do that because the only key is stuck in ignition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you suggest how to remove the key from the ignition w/out electrical power, or how to charge the battery w/out accessing the trunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14290" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T21:52:50.323" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T12:28:13.710" Title="Chevy Cobalt key stuck in ignition, battery dead" Tags="|chevrolet|jump-start|cobalt|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24686" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:59:11.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to jump start your car. Pop the hood. You'll see something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVexi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVexi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the green circle is the positive jump point. Connect the red jumper cable clamp there first. Find an unpainted ground spot and attach your negative clamp there. Once connected to the donor car, you'll have power to do what you need ... either start the car, or pop the trunk to get to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:59:11.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24717" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:01:49.230" Score="7" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard these terms recently as part of the description of a new car. I know that there are intake and exhaust valves in the engine that are controlled by cams on the camshaft (if that helps you answer or not I don't know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do the terms &quot;combined port&quot; &amp;amp; &quot;direct injection&quot; mean?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T20:49:41.730" Title="What do the terms &quot;combined port&quot; &amp; &quot;direct injection&quot; mean?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24683" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:49:18.493" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A head gasket is a piece of material which is located between the head and the block inside an engine. It is usually made of a material which is softer than the head and block to allow for sealing of imperfections between the two mating surfaces. It also seals ports which transfer oil or coolant between the two parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of a typical head gasket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgmUC.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgmUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head gasket has several jobs to perform:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seals the combustion chamber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps the oil in the oil and the water in the water, and both out of the combustion chamber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows for movement of the head/block surfaces to ensure proper sealing while the engine is running. This is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; important if the engine block is made of one material (iron) and the head is made of another (aluminum), as the two metals expand and contract at different rates during the heating/cooling cycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, the head gasket can be made of many different materials. There are several different types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) - As the name implies, it's made of multiple layers of steel. Since the layers are thin, they will deform under the tight load of head as it's clamped to the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pure Copper - Usually has a ring embedded within it at the cylinders to enclose the cylinder pressures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composite - Older tech. Usually made of graphite and/or asbestos. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elastomeric – utilized a steel core plate with molded in place silicone rubber beads to seal oil and coolant passages. The bores were sealed by rolled steel fire rings in a more conventional manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:49:18.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24690" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The following example assumes output in lb-ft &amp;amp; horsepower. Dynamometers can also measure torque output in Newton Meters or Kilowatts just as easily, or any other measure of torque and power, for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, let's get everyone on the same sheet of music. When it comes to vehicles, there are two basic types of dynamometers: engine &amp;amp; chassis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine dynamometer (dyno for short) measures the torque output from the crankshaft of an engine directly. Here is a larger engine dyno with an engine attached to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxdmG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxdmG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine attached to it appears to be a Detroit Diesel engine. Note that the engine is only attached to the dyno via an output shaft (covered by the yellow piece). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chassis dyno measures the torque output of an engine as seen at the tires. Here is one which is above ground and with a car on top of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4aCZ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4aCZ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture you can see a large cylinder underneath the rear (drive) wheels of the vehicle. Attached to the large cylinder is the measuring device for this particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dyno is designed to measure the torque at a given point (engine crank or at the wheels, depending on the model) and the rotational speed at which the torque is measured. To do this (let's say for an engine dyno), the engine is mounted (or as some would say &quot;&lt;em&gt;strapped&lt;/em&gt;&quot;) to a cradle. This cradle is in proximity to the dyno where the operator can place a connecting piece between the two. Then all of the electrical, fuel, and cooling systems are connected to the engine. Along with this, whatever sensors are present will be connected so that the operator can &lt;em&gt;view&lt;/em&gt; the engine to ensure it is running properly or shut it down if they see issues. From there, the engine is ran and the dyno reads the amount of torque produced by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure the torque output of an engine, the dyno must create some kind of resistance, then measure the resistance. This resistance is then fed through a computer which computes the amount of torque at a given speed and from this, can compute the amount of horsepower. There are two main ways resistance can be applied against the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fluid type dyno uses a device much like the torque converter of an automatic transmission. The difference here is, the coupling device's resistance can be adjusted to control the speed of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another type of dyno is an eddy current dyno. Instead of a fluid coupler, eddy currents are used to control the speed of the engine. Think of it as a giant generator which can apply load through creating the current, which stalls the speed of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both fluid and eddy current dynos are called brake dynos because they use either method to produce a braking action which controls the engine. A completely different method to measure torque through a dyno is an inertial dyno which calculates the speed of how fast the engine or tires can speed up a known mass. This works off a completely different premise than a brake dyno. Due to this, measurements can be different between the two types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the engine is running on the dyno it develops torque. There are sensors attached to the dyno which can detect the amount of movement (actual twisting of the device itself) which is produced from the coupling device. This force is then computed into the amount of torque produced. During the testing, the engine is pushed into wide open throttle (WOT). The dyno produces resistance against the engine as it climbs through the rpm range. To measure the amount of torque, the resistance must be enough to hold the engine at a given speed, yet not overpower the engine (impeded it's progress through the rpm range). As the engine climbs in rpm, the sensor do their thing and read the amount of torque which is being produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chassis dyno works pretty much the same way (in either fluid or eddy current), but is measured at the wheels (tires) as they contact the surface of the rotating drum. Resistance is put against the tires and the torque is measured. When measured at the tires, torque/horsepower output is always less than what would be measured at the crankshaft due to powertrain losses. Powertrain losses are those which are incurred as the power is transmitted through the transmission, drive line (if so equipped), changes of direction through the differential, out the axles, and through the tires. A rule of thumb dictates about a 15% loss when a vehicle uses a manual transmission and a loss of 18-20% when using an automatic transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculation of horsepower (HP) is the easy part, mainly because it is just a mathematical equation which gives us the figure. To calculate HP, just follow the math:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = (T * N) / constant&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = Power (hp)&#xA;T = Torque (lb-ft)&#xA;N = Rotational Speed (rpm)&#xA;C = Constant (5252)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The constant 5252 is the rounded value of (33,000 ft·lbf/min)/(2π rad/rev)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is purely an exercise in mathematics, the computer can figure out on the fly the exact amount of HP produced as long as it knows how fast the engine is going and the amount of torque produced at that given speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24691" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" Score="0" Body="A device that measures horsepower and torque." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T22:51:55.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24684" CreationDate="2016-01-13T23:40:05.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intake manifold: This is where air is introduced to the pistons; on a carbureted motor fuel as well. But it also usually houses the thermostat for cooling purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2021-03-02T03:41:01.570" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T03:41:01.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24700" CreationDate="2016-01-13T23:47:37.157" Score="5" ViewCount="4564" Body="&lt;p&gt;my car has been consuming oil for a while now but only recently has started to smoke when it is started while the engine is cold.&#xA;I thought that maybe because I am using a synthetic oil in a high mileage car but after switching to non-synthetic one it still consumed the oil although at a slower late but still a quick one none the less. I thought it was because of my aggressive driving style and how I do late shifts and I stopped that completely and the rate of consumption didn't change much. And only recently my car has started to smoke, when I start the engine and wait a little then press a little bit of gas it smokes not a lot and the smoke stops after a short while. It has been like that for maybe 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if it is worn out piston rings or something else, I also did a compression test and the results were very odd I was got 140 150 140 150 on my car which I think is really high? maybe the guy did it incorrectly as he asked me to start the car and didn't use an assistant and I didn't press the throttle wide open while the test was carried. Also he did a wet test on a single cylinder and it gave from 140 (dry) to 153. He also said the &quot;escape&quot; rate of the cylinders is 13 PSI something I didn't really understand, he also said that new cars get 5 PSI while really old ones get 15 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't noticed a difference in the car acceleration or speed, so where is the problem exactly, are the piston rings worn out? is it something else in the valves? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil usually lasts me about 3 to 4 weeks before I need to add more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastEditorUserId="13160" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T02:56:46.627" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:00:46.590" Title="Engine consuming oil and white smoke comes out when starting the engine while cold" Tags="|oil|compression|smoke|compression-testing|cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2016-01-13T23:48:22.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the piston rings. The small metallic bands on the piston head....&#xA;From the bottom...As the piston rises and drops (compresses) it pulls oil up to help with lubrication. If the rings were not in place it would flood the chamber. Also the rings do expand slightly with heat as does all metal. &#xA;The top has a &quot;headgasket&quot; preventing oil and water from entering into the combustion chamber or even mixing for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T01:05:32.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T01:05:32.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o06So.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o06So.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bobbers have particular characteristics and styling that define them as a bobber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very stripped down for weight reduction to increase in power to weight ratio&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removal of the front and rear fender&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removal of passenger related equipment (seat, passenger footpegs)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frequently a hard tail with the rear suspension removed and replaced with hard struts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A shortened seat height&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A cut frame to reduce seat height and remove unnecessary items&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bobber will typically not have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A raked front end like a chopper&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Liquid cooling for the engine (this isn't a must but a frequent)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" Score="0" Body="A type of motorcycle." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T00:04:59.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24693" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:12:51.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your piston rings are worn. This is allowing oil into the combustion chamber so it's being burnt off... Typically accompanied by a sweetish smelling exhaust and heavy gas smell in oil itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the reason you didn't need to step on the gas when the compression was checked is because the spark plugs shouldn't of been working... This it wouldn't have helped to add fuel... It's checking the compression of fuel and air without spark...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compression is different for all vehicles but as a base line 120-150 psi is acceptable... The 13 psi he was referring to was that the oil coated the cylinder walls thus helping to seal the rings. This is why the boost in psi occurred. If it wouldn't have changed at all or very little it would mean the valves weren't sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T03:00:46.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:00:46.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24656" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:38:16.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also the Manual steering setup is lighter in race applications. This also means no extra pulley (power steering pump removal) on the belt so you actually gain a little bit of hp.&#xA;Also I just remembered.... If your vehicle stops running you can still steer it. Power/assisted steering gets tight and hard to turn while manual does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T00:43:28.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T00:43:28.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24684" CreationDate="2016-01-14T01:04:32.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a mechanics point of view you know it when you see it but defining it is slightly more difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would break the definition up into 3 separate cases. Carburated or fuel injected gasoline powered engine and a diesel engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a fuel injected engine the intake manifold is everything between the throttle body and the intake port/s of the head/s. I'm referring to the heads and ports strangely because the engine may contain many different configurations from a single head containing a single port to many ports spread across two heads. The manifold directs the air that has passed through the throttle plates to the intake ports. This can be the most complicated of the intake manifolds. It will contain the fuel injectors (excluding direct injection). It may contain variable intake runners. It can consist of a single piece (Ford 4.6 liter) or of two pieces that get bolted together, generally referred to as an upper manifold and a lower manifold (GM 3.4 liter). It may be made out of aluminum or plastic (GM 3.4 liter, Ford 4.6 liter, respectively). The manifold may pass engine coolant through it in some aspect and may contain the thermostat. There are too many different configurations to even mention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a carburated engine the intake manifold is everything between the carburator and the intake port/s of the head/s.  Because the carburator is an old technology the manifolds are far more simple. The manifold directs air mixed with fuel that has passed through the carburator to the intake port/s. It may be made out or cast iron or aluminum. The manifold may pass engine coolant through it in some aspect and may contain the thermostat. There are too many different configurations to even mention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the diesel may or may not have a throttle body it is more difficult to define. If the air filter has no soft connection to the engine then it's everything between the air filter and the heads. If there is a soft connection to the air filter then where the soft connection turns hard to the heads can be considered the intake manifold. Everything else from the gas engines more or less applies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T01:04:32.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2016-01-14T01:18:09.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct me if I'm wrong guys....&#xA;Direct injection is the fuel injectors inject fuel directly into the cylinder using ratios based on the cpu.&#xA;Combined is when they have injection points both in the cylinder and the intake manifold. Depending on the driving conditions the cpu will dictate where the fuel will be more efficiently injected. This would allow for fuel savings and better response according to how the vehicle is being driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T01:18:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T01:55:14.310" Score="7" ViewCount="4856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 questions actually. But I feel there might be connection so I decided to combine this 2 queries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First:&lt;/strong&gt; During slow start drive I hear this low screeching sound like something is loose. I'm trying to figure out where it is coming from but it is hard since the sound is produced only while the vehicle is moving. I know I need to check and tighten bolts somewhere but if someone can provide me the major points to check so that I can little by little check which caused the screeching. My car is Mazda 323F 2000 Model AT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second:&lt;/strong&gt; I recently brought this up to a couple of mechanic already. This happens when I slightly press the break pedal during slow drive on traffic moving to a stop (or if the vehicle is slow moving). The break would screech loud. I checked the break pads and it is still thick and I see no damage on the disk and drums as well. The mechanic also said that this is normal for automatic vehicle? I think otherwise. If anyone can give me suggestion on how to avoid this loud screeching sound that would be great. Also is there a possibility that this and my first question is somehow related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might be too broad but maybe you gurus can help me try something to narrow the possibilities down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T03:45:26.403" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T05:29:22.187" Title="Screeching sound at slow drive and breaking" Tags="|brakes|mazda|noise|chassis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:02:39.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know if it's coming from the front or rear? Also double check your serpentine or v-belts... They may be loose or just need some belt dressing. I know they can sound like that when at idle or when stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T02:02:39.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24676" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:09:02.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know exactly the feeling you are having ... been in this situation many times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing you need to do is be malevolent on it. You need to grab a pry bar which will give you some leverage. Do not be nice to it. Put the pry bar up between the inner CVJ and the case and really have at it. The axle will pop before you hurt anything (besides yourself). Figure out which way to put a pry bar up in there so it will have the greatest effect. It can just be a real pain. Also, you'll want a pan underneath of it because you are sure to lose some transmission oil in the process (after it pops). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While something like this is meant for tearing wood apart, I find the straighter of the two ends (not the hook end) works pretty good in a situation like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNTDm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNTDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has just enough angle on it to be a good lever without being so bent you cannot get it in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T02:09:02.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24881" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:12:12.940" Score="7" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably title says it all, but I am on my design work for car suspension and cannot find a good displacement sensor for each of the wheels of the car. I tried to look up for accelerometers, which can tell tilting of the overall car from 4 directions, but it is hard to get the actual displacement mathematically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also looked for Electro-Optical proximity Detectors, but cannot find any data-sheets with proper explanations or any products in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I need is displacement detector/sensor, which could withstand car road vibrations (robust), would have high accuracy and sensitivity and would supply me with the sensitivity output information such as Volts/centimetre or similar. From this info I should be able to do my mathematics!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for your time. &#xA;All suggestions are welcome ad I will be happy to look for answers where you will point me. Tried Google countless times :(  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14295" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T14:51:57.463" Title="Displacement sensors for car wheel and datasheets" Tags="|suspension|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24721" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:13:01.197" Score="8" ViewCount="10254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a stupid mistake this week, I put some summer windshield washer (Temperature &gt; 0°C) in the my car. It's currently -14°C outside so you can guess the fluid is completely frozen. I don't have access to a heated garage to leave the car inside for some time as suggested &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/2450/3725&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The tank was pretty empty when I filled it up so it must be like at least 95% summer mix in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I expect some damage? But more importantly is there any other way to melt the frozen windshield washer from the tank, the pump and the line? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T06:13:14.357" Title="Summer windshield washer in winter" Tags="|winter|windshield-washer|freezing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T02:27:41.727" Score="10" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Toyota privia and upon starting it the starter just keeps going. This only occurs in drive and neutral. The vehicle also starts in any gear. When I start in park the starter keeps spinning until I shift then it stops: same as neutral. Also if I nudge the shifter arm on the transaxle it stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already put in shims with no effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T03:41:12.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T06:27:19.107" Title="Engine starter just won't stop starting" Tags="|electrical|toyota|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21481" CreationDate="2016-01-14T03:15:24.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the great detail.  Considering this is a bit of an odd issue, I'll try thinking outside the box a little.  But first I would use a multimeter to test the coolant temp sensor, then o2 sensors.  Perhaps even a quick check of the upper radiator hose to make sure the thermostat isn't stuck open.  I say to check these first because it sounds like you're running a little rich even after warm-up.  If these all check out, then on to my real suspicions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible problem with the camshaft or a malfunctioning crankshaft position sensor, which the latter can be tested with a meter if you haven't gotten a check engine light for codes.  The ECU uses this sensor (among others) to adjust timing and, since that could be directly affecting the sequential injection, it could be causing that fuel smell right at the damper, as well as the performance issues you describe.  Extremely small leak could just be evaporating or the damper could be stressed from working harder due to fluctuations in the injection sequences.  Just a thought, not necessarily intended as an answer but it wouldn't let me comment as opposed to answer so sorry I had to write this here.  Maybe I don't have enough credibility yet for that function since I'm new here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is clogged exhaust somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's worth a test! Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mustangguy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:15:24.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:05:35.253" Score="9" ViewCount="4400" Body="&lt;p&gt;This test is often mentioned in the context of figuring out what's wrong with a car engine's operation (misfires, hesitation, poor fuel economy, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this test and what does one need to perform it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T13:35:09.833" Title="What is the &quot;propane test&quot; and how is it carried out?" Tags="|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24709" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:27:19.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two possible failed parts: The ignition switch or the starter relay. The ignition switch would be either not returning to run or has failed electrically. The relay would have to be stuck on or commanded on by the Security ECU. The security system is not supposed to turn on the starter only stop it from working. It is the least likely failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T06:27:19.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24555" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:31:12.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not good. The little oil you have left will overheat &amp;amp; degrade as others have explained better. With your oil level really low like that, as long as the engine isn't overheating yet, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to get the car to lug itself 5 or 10 miles to a shop to get more oil w/out problems, but it's already really pretty harsh on the car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, your mileage will get worse (maybe permanently, depending on the tars &amp;amp; resins formed by the heat-degraded oil), &amp;amp; your engine will suffer exponentially more wear than usual, b/c the oil can't do its job well enough any more&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you kept on driving far enough beyond this point your engine would eventually overheat &amp;amp; be destroyed - either coming apart from plastic deformation or even welding itself shut into a very expensive piece of modern art. Under extreme overheating, thermal expansion becomes significant, so you get a positive feedback loop w/ more &amp;amp; more heat &amp;amp; friction. If the internals hold up, this will cause it to seize, and if enough power &amp;amp; momentum are involved it can weld the pistons to the block, kind of like how some wheels are made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JbnDXw-0pM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;friction welding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14298" LastEditorUserId="14298" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T05:37:17.903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T05:37:17.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:37:12.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Scavenging Rings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several rings on a piston.  Depending on the application and use of the piston it may have up to five ring grooves near the crown.  Here are some points of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The top ring is always the compression ring.  It does prevent some oil from getting involved in the combustion process but it is not it's primary duty.  The compression rings primary objective is to prevent exhaust gasses from slipping by the rings and getting into the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second ring is usually also a compression ring.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This Ring Scavenges Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottom ring is always the oil scavenging ring.  In it's groove cut around the circumference of the piston will be two rings separated by an oil control spacer and sometimes called simply an expander or expander ring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the two oil scavenging rings and behind the expander there are small holes drilled into the ring groove.  Oil that builds up between the two oil scavenge rings will get back into the crankcase via these small holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To Answer Your Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What prevents engine oil from mixing with petrol in motor bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Scavenging Rings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The uneven brass colored ring is the expander.  It prevents the two oil scavenging rings from touching in the ring landing and allows oil to buildup and pass through the holes in the piston that give access to the crankcase.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VM39X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VM39X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrRWz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrRWz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T06:37:12.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T06:52:55.080" Score="10" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Subaru Legacy Turbocharged GT 2008 model with an EJ20 engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press hard on the acceleration to boost the tachometer upon reaching 4-5 thousand RPM's it starts jerking and there is no acceleration. However, if I accelerate slowly I don't experience any issue at all. The fuel filter and pump were checked and are OK, so are the plugs. An engine diagnosis was done and revealed nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14300" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T07:05:49.067" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:16:52.833" Title="My subaru legacy will not boost" Tags="|troubleshooting|subaru|turbocharger|legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:01:54.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Combined port &amp;amp; direct injection&lt;/em&gt; implies that the following injection systems are present:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;port injection&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the fuel injectors squirt fuel into the intake manifold, allowing air and fuel to mix before they pass the intake valve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;direct injection&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so fuel is injected directly into the cylinders, after the intake valve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct injection enables greater fuel efficiency and reduced emissions. The trouble is that the intake valves have dry air flowing through them, which will eventually lead to issues with carbon buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By utilizing port injection, the air-fuel mixture coats the intake valve to prevent carbon buildup formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By utilizing both port and direct injection, some vehicles get the best of both worlds - the efficiency of direct injection without the drawbacks associated with dry intake valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T07:01:54.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24712" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:02:03.027" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The propane test is used to find vacuum/air leaks in the intake of an ICE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use this test until I lost my eyebrows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use propane to find vacuum leaks by applying the propane to suspected air leak areas of the intake of a combustion engine.  You are looking for air leaks between the carburetor or throttle body and the cylinder head.  An air leak before the throttle body is not an air/vacuum leak because there is no vacuum that will effect mixture before the throttle body or carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small Propane Tank&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A metering mechanism designed to screw onto the propane tank&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 feet of rubber hose&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maybe, some duct tape&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your hose and slip it over the end of the torch.  If it doesn't fit snuggly, use your duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will disconnect your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) before you start so the ECU goes into an closed loop mode and isn't trying to constantly and minutely adjust the golden ration 14.7:1 AFR while you are trying to get this done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the car is running turn the propane on and start moving the the end of the rubber hose to areas where there is suspected air leak.  You will want to linger over suspect points for a bit to allow any oxygen to get moved out of the way.  When the engine starts to suck the propane the idle will smooth out, misfires may even go away.  This works because the vacuum leak is sucking in propane and not oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty effective unless you do something that becomes dangerous. I had another mechanic leave a propane tank on and come to bay to ask for help. He was working on his personal car. He left the propane on, the car was off. He wanted to reset his ECU and disconnected his battery, it sparked......you know the rest of the story. I never used the technique again after that. I think stupidity drove the incident but nonetheless I've only used the smoke trick and the the WD-40/Carb Cleaner trick ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not going to tell you what this picture is for&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1ea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1ea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T07:23:34.007" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T07:23:34.007" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24723" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:09:45.440" Score="22" ViewCount="30690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to jack up my car to take out the front driver side tire and change the p/s and alternator belt. I don't own a floor jack but I do have a scissor jack. I was wondering could I just use the scissor jack instead of the floor jack to raise the car up and lower it on the jack stand. I have a chock too. I know the floor jack adds more protection because it can be slightly raised up again so in case the jack stand gives out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is if it is my first time using a jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T20:02:58.073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T03:28:09.547" Title="Is it ok to use a scissor jack instead of a floor jack?" Tags="|repair|jack|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:25:38.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In petrol engines Fuel injection traditionally used to happen(still happens in most commuter cars) before the intake valve meaning that the air fuel is mixed before entering the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In direct Injection, the injector sprays the air fuel mixture directly into the cylinder thus you have optimum computer controlled combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct Injection has a lot of advantages over the MPFI or port injection and its the way of the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It improves mileage through a stratified charge engine process(basically staying as close to the stochiometric ratio as possible this achieving better burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower emissions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevents engine knocking/detonation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better control of the engine since before GDI it was only possible to manipulate valve timings in real time operation to change the efficiency/power characteristics of the engine, now since you can vary the fuel pressure,amount. there are a whole lot of possibilities to explore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GDI engines are built sturdier compared to MPFI engines and last longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better power output compared to mpfi.&#xA;Diesels on the other hand have been using Direct Injection for quite a while now , because &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Main disadvantage of the GDI is that since the fuel is not coming in contact with the intake valve , the back side of the valve starts to have carbon buildup pretty soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this issue some manufactures us a combination of GDI and port injection like the new Lexus RC-F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6qZhz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6qZhz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T09:50:31.310" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T09:50:31.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:25:55.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are at least slightly handy with tools (or have a nice friend who is) then it probably wouldn't be too hard to remove the tank c/w pump from the car and take it inside to the warmth and let it defrost in the bath tub and maybe even run some warm water over it. This may fix the tank and pump, but line is harder.  Possibly fill tank with winter fluid and take it for a drive to try and defrost the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14301" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T07:25:55.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24727" CreationDate="2016-01-14T07:35:58.937" Score="20" ViewCount="29112" Body="&lt;p&gt;The modern Harley Davidson engine has very poor power output.  Even when highly modified a 130HP engine can cost tens of thousands of US Dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are specs on one of the modern engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harley-Davidson Twin Cam (1800cc / 110” 45 degree single plug v-twin with F.I. and 9.0:1 CR) – 95hp &amp;amp; 110 ft lbs of torque&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 1.8 Liters and it produces 95HP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has always been the trend with Harley.  I've heard all manner of reasoning. It's a cruiser, it's not trying to do that.  On and on.  Well, guess what.  Every single Harley rider I know dumps tons of money into their machines to get an extra 10 or 25 HP.  So that's hard to buy.  The community of Harley riders globally spends hundreds of millions of dollars on aftermarket parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What am I looking for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little bit of honesty.  I figure this is the place where I can get that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question Is&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are Harley Davidson engines such poor performers on their horsepower ratings?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They consistently lose to the Big 4 Japanese V-Twin cruisers in terms of performance as well almost everything else but the Royal Enfield.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is it about the design of Harley Davidson engines that limits their performance?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for letting me bring my motorcycle vitriol here.  You all are champs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYWwP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYWwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T01:28:16.480" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T08:38:53.197" Title="Why do Harley Davidson engines suffer from such poor performance?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|engine-theory|harley-davidson|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24719" CreationDate="2016-01-14T08:04:28.853" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use either jack you want&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety sake, don't get under the car unless you have some jackstands.  It isn't the jack failing that kills you.  It's the fact that you only used a jack and didn't have any backup.  You NEVER use a jack alone if you are getting underneath the car.  You ONLY use a jack to change a tire on the side of the road and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;you never get underneath your car without jack stands in that situation...NEVER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;you never get underneath your car without jack stands in that situation...NEVER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;you never get underneath your car without jack stands in that situation...NEVER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLGb5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLGb5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to jackstands, take the spare tire off your car and jam it up under the car.  If it doesn't take up enough space, don't get under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do these things&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the car in park&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the emergency brake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find anything you can to use as wheel chocks.  2x4 is better than a rock.  A rock can skid along smooth concrete if you are on a slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't jack up the car if it's on a slope, no matter what.  Especially since your are a 'jack your car up virgin'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the car on level ground&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use jack stands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use jack stands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use jack stands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have jackstands, use two of your wheels. The spare and another off the car.  Jam them up in there.  Make sure the car won't fall more than an inch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you jack your car up per your owners manual.  Get it out of the glove box and open it.  It will tell you where to place your jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BE SAFE, BE SAFE, BE SAFE, BE SAFE, BE SAFE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel uncertain, don't do it.  Ask a neighbor who has done it before to help you.  Call your friends.  Have them come over and help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have someone with you in case something happens and you need help.  Do not do this alone since it is your first time.  Don't do it alone.  DO NOT DO IT ALONE.  Have your GF/Wife there.  Anybody.  The moment you feel uncomfortable abandon the project and find someone to assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This post makes me incredibly nervous because you have not done this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Please be safe.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your jack placement is very important.  If you place your jack incorrectly it can damage your car.  I already said this piece but get the owners manual out of your glovebox.  It will tell you EXACTLY where to place your jack.  There are points the manufacturer designed into the car for you to jack it up.  You will want to use those hardened jack points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T08:44:24.537" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24722" CreationDate="2016-01-14T10:37:39.837" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Royal Enfields are poor man's Harley they both have a thing in common , a relatively high displacement engine for less amount of horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example : Royal Enfield Continental GT 535CC engine produces 29hp from 87mm x 90mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a Big bore long stroke design , it gives out excellent low end Torque , I have driven this motorcycle and you get almost all of the awesome torque at around 1500 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it has this design is because these engines were built for the army way back in the 50s to be driven off road especially in desert and muds where this low rpm max torque is desired so not to get the wheel stuck in mud or sand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design stuck with the bike and it has now become classic vintage design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choppers are of similar nature for example the Twin Cam engine spoken by the OP has the bore x stroke of 95.3mm x 101.6mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast the bore x stroke of yamaha R1 is 77 mm × 53.6 mm .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, Choppers have the particular big bore long stroke design to have max torque at low rpm which is ideal for a cruiser whereas a sports bike has to rev to higher rpm to reach its peak torque figures which is not very desirable in cruising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from all the technicality, I prefer the chopper engine to a high revving engine for cruising, the feel is very unique &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T10:37:39.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24728" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:29:00.020" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain to me what is &lt;code&gt;Gem Harness&lt;/code&gt;? Is it something to do with wiring? Searched the net but could not find any convincing answer anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary reason I am asking is because &lt;code&gt;mazda&lt;/code&gt; service center has given me a quote of &lt;code&gt;2000USD&lt;/code&gt; for the parts only and around &lt;code&gt;500USD&lt;/code&gt; for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards,&#xA;Y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:37:46.060" Title="Gem Harness - MAZDA 2 1.6 2011" Tags="|wiring|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24566" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:45:20.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is addition to Paulster's answer.&#xA;Here's an animation&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFO20.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFO20.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The disc in Grey is the flywheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia provides a good general outline - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A flywheel is a rotating mechanical device that is used to store rotational energy. ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - Providing continuous energy when the energy source is discontinuous. For example, flywheels are used in reciprocating engines because the energy source, torque from the engine, is intermittent.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   - Delivering energy at rates beyond the ability of a continuous energy source. This is achieved by collecting energy in the flywheel over time and then releasing the energy quickly, at rates that exceed the abilities of the energy source. &#xA;   - Controlling the orientation of a mechanical system. In such applications, the angular momentum of a flywheel is purposely transferred as a torque to the attaching mechanical system when energy is transferred to or from the flywheel, thereby causing the attaching system to rotate into some desired position.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our case , point 1 serves more to make the engine operation smooth by minimizing crankshaft acceleration/decelerations between cylinder firings when in NEUTRAL.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Point 2. is utilized in Mechanical Kinetic Energy Recovery Systems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequences of high MI &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower Engine Response- when disconnected from the transmission. (slower for shifting gears for professional cases)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is an additional rotational mass to accelerate when connected to the transmission.&#xA;The specification of the flywheel depend on all sorts of things like engine design, number of cylinders (with more, the power stroke is more evenly divided), RPM of operation etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It also depends on use cases, eg , like in racing, it could virtually be done away with as minimal time is spent with the vehicle stationary and in between gears. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T12:06:21.367" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T12:06:21.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24722" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:00:03.240" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First of all, I don't really know much about motorcycles, so don't beat me...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a good comparison, one needs torque/hp diagrams. However, they are not easily to find on the web for certain models. In most cases, you will find plots showing curves before/after tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a little and found these two bikes, which hopefully are comparable in this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steelhp.com.au/Projects/Harley-Davidson-Fat-Boy-Low.aspx&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; are the curves for a Harley Davidson Fat Boy Low. (It has &quot;only&quot; 1584cm³):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9odGG.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9odGG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorradtuning.tv/2014/10/12/die-neue-yamaha-vmax-1700-mit-ueber-197-ps-am-hinterrad-und-mit-ueber-175-nm-drehmoment/&quot;&gt;something similar&lt;/a&gt; for the Yamaha Vmax 1700 with 1679cm³ (I hope, this is appropriate):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwvxB.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwvxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike is made for lots of torque and high speed. Now, let's compare the curves. I've extracted them and brought to the same unit (mainly torque, but there's also a small difference between imperial (hp) and metric (PS) power):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThDIR.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThDIR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Harley delivers nearly maximum torque at 2000RPM, and keeps going until 4000RPM, after which the torque decreases. That's also the RPM where it's finally outperformed by the Yamaha in each, torque and power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've also added the curves of the tuned bikes and there, the Yamaha outperforms the Harley from the beginning.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear how exact these curves are. For example, I also found a site stating about 125Nm torque for this Harley, while the curve shows 115 only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general, Harleys are usually driven at low RPM, where they have more torque and more power than that 140PS Yamaha bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be, the Yamaha is an extreme example, but keep in mind, the Harley compared here has just 1.5l displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:00:03.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24725" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:37:46.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;GEM stands for Generic Electronics Module. Its a control module for the cabin electronics (windows, locks, etc). The GEM harness is the wiring that leads up to or from the module. It is a harness made of multiple parts and replacing it completely is a bit of a crazy thing. You usually tend to troubleshoot and find the bad part and repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$2000USD + $500 for labor is crazy. I don't know which Mazda you have but the GEM usually goes for around $300-$500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the car to a mechanic who can diagnose the issue rather than try to change the whole thing and leave you bankrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T14:37:46.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24732" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:48:42.280" Score="11" ViewCount="7280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanics at the local garage have insisted it's &quot;no problem yet&quot;, but people here in Sierra Leone have different standards to me when it comes to car safety...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pic of the positive terminal post on my car battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pU8bq.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pU8bq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks to me like a crack, going from near the bottom at the front just left of centre, across the top in a reverse &lt;code&gt;c&lt;/code&gt; shape, then down the other side. Whatever's under that cracked metal casing is visible through the crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard (but not impossible) to attach the connector terminal - it feels like the post is maybe 0.5mm too wide and it takes some pushing to get it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know any sort of crack to the battery casing is serious - but is something like this on a terminal post merely cosmetic, or is it terminal? (pun intended)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery works and can hold a charge, but discharges when not in use faster than I might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T16:34:47.413" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T16:34:47.413" Title="Does this crack in a battery terminal post indicate that the battery should be replaced?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:51:46.080" Score="6" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled my Th400 out of my K20 Chevy and I'm in the middle of rebuilding it. I was reassembling it and when I went to put the completed gear train assembly in it, the centre support assembly gets stuck in the transmission case.  Can anyone here help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14307" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T15:56:43.087" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T15:56:43.087" Title="Th400 Transmission help" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-07-23T01:41:02.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24661" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:05:08.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, a &quot;performance&quot; tune for an unmodified, normally-aspirated engine basically consists of a slightly more aggressive ignition advance curve and a higher (200-500 RPM) redline. Depending on your engine you might see some single-digit horsepower gains, but IMHO it's not worth it for the $200+ you'll spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'd honestly only consider a new tune to accommodate other changes you've made to your engine (better intake/exhaust, bigger injectors, etc). These are things that will probably be outside the stock ECU's ability to compensate for, so a tune will be required in that case anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:05:08.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24729" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:21:18.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are right. Its not a problem yet. There are no signs that battery fluid is escaping through the post. Keep an eye on it, though. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:21:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28135" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:04:39.127" Score="8" ViewCount="31319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching charging flat batteries and I think, if I've understood correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trickle charging isn't always possible from flat, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some trickle chargers don't charge at all unless they detect a voltage close to 12v, and completely flat batteries will tend to be lower than this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes sulfur build up inside the flat battery prevents charging, and needs high voltages to beat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, if it is possible, slow charging or trickle charging appears to be preferred over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jump starting, which apparently can damage the alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regular charging, which I think can strain the battery if done from flat? I might have misunderstood this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I test if a particular charger is charging a particular battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regarding minimum voltage, I can't find any manufacturer's info, but connecting the charger to a multi meter gives a reading of 19V. I'd imagine if it was the type to require 12V in the battery it would show 0V in the multimeter? (Not sure why it's 19V not 12V though [update] it's because its open circuit voltage is much higher than its voltage under load)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no idea where to start regarding checking if the sulfur issue might be preventing charging. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tested the battery before connecting the trickle charger, and it gave a reading of 2 volts, which I believe is typical of a completely flat battery (we're talking &quot;door and window switches don't respond, turning ignition makes no sound whatsoever&quot; level of flat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The charger itself gives no information at all. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charger is a Nikkai Power 2.4W solar charger, so I'm expecting a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; slow charge even if everything works. I'd like to know how to find out if it's doing nothing before having waited several days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; one day later, I checked the battery voltage again and it had increased from around 2V to 3.8V. So, it is charging (and yes, it is extremely slow - this thing is more commonly used as a maintainer than a charger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also replaced my crappy multimeter than can't measure DC amps and can only measure DC volts to the nearest whole volt (why do they even make these?!?) with a better multimeter that does decimals and DC amps. The amp reading for the battery after a day's charging is (unless I'm reading it wrong) 40 mA. This seems insanely low - certainly explains why the car is unable to do anything, even central locking. When connected in series with the charger, the amp reading stayed pretty constant, when connected on its own with the charger disconnected, the amp reading was dropping quite fast (losing something like 0.4 mA a second). This also looks like additional confirmation that the charger is working. [update] Don't measure the amp reading of the battery without the charger like I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T10:52:51.253" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T20:44:30.737" Title="How can I tell if a flat car battery is charging when hooked up to a trickle charger?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14668" CreationDate="2016-01-14T16:47:12.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try rubbing a stainless steel item around the spill sight. Stainless steel has inert properties that take smells away. &#xA;I use spoons..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel_soap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel_soap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note you may have to pull back the carpet as it was a spilt fluid. There may still be remains of it under the carpet on the floorboards..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T17:23:56.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T17:23:56.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24568" CreationDate="2016-01-14T18:42:59.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the engine running before you disassembled it, yes or no?&#xA;Most of 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4  16 valve small engines ARE interference.&#xA;If after you assembled it and you missed on the timing and cranked the engine&#xA;with just one of the camshafts out of timing you ruined the head.&#xA;Do a compression test.  You can rent or borrow the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T18:42:59.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:15:09.470" Score="4" ViewCount="1617" Body="&lt;p&gt;My beloved Vectra C (2006) &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18808/1-6-petrol-engine-overheats-intermittently&quot;&gt;a previous story here&lt;/a&gt; developed a new &quot;symptom&quot;: engine cuts out while driving. Since there are other (possibly connected) symptoms I am going to list them one-by-one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine cutting out:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Today morning driving to work (engine already at optimal temperature) while doing around 70 km/h the engine just stopped without any prior sign of stress. I stopped, removed ignition key, reinserted, turned the key -&gt; nothing. Tried once more but absolutely no reaction from the engine (lights/radio switched on as they should). Approx 2 minutes of waiting tried again: ignition worked properly. Then drove for another few minutes to work without any issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Today evening minutes after the engine started (-2 Celsius outside, engine is still cold) it happened again. Tried turning over, did not work. Tried again minutes later and worked again. Drove home for about 15 minutes without further issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Erratic idle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It happened only once a few weeks ago: After 30 min drive the engine started revving around 3.000 RPM without touching the throttle. Left it for the evening, tried again tomorrow morning, it was fine. Went to a very good mechanic, they test-drive it, try to read possible error codes, they found nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rev counter / speedometer getting stuck:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approx once a month after starting the engine I notice that the rev counter is stuck on 0, while otherwise the car is functioning correctly. I stop, re-ignite, it is all fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only once, but the same issue happened with the speedometer. Car works, but speedoometer is stuck on 0. Restart worked here as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible solutions&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;if you can confirm any, or just exclude some that would already help&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Idle Air Control valve: it would surely explain the rough idle, maybe even the cutting out too? I am not the DIY type of guy but might be able to check that one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pump? Read it just now that it could be a potential issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECU: It would explain all the possible symptoms. But you can blame everything on it, so I am unsure on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crank sensor? Just from Google.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Service history:&lt;/strong&gt; Battery replaced a few months ago, major engine-renewal also a few months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Eventually I will need to take it to a mechanic I am aware of that, but I am currently in a country where I do not speak the local language, so I would prefer a some quick-fix if there is any until I can drive back home in around a month.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11491" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:15:09.470" Title="Vauxhall Vectra engine (1.6 petrol) cuts out" Tags="|engine|vauxhall|opel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24719" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:59:50.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a great answer but more to add than just a comment  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have jack stands and a plan  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Position the car on a flat surface solid surface and give yourself&#xA;work room &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay out the tools and parts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emergency brake, park or reverse, and chock(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a plan for exactly where you are going to jack and place the&#xA;stands&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The owner's manual should have in instructions for both  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have room then place stand(s) - then raise them more later &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the lug nuts &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack the car enough to get the wheel off the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise / place the jack stands &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the car a good push&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it stable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheel &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even with all those precautions only go under the vehicle when you&#xA; need to&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't sit cross legged with your legs under the brake  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse the order to bring the vehicle back down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:59:50.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24741" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:40:16.377" Score="5" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine that you haven't got a hard copy of your owners manual, technical data or operating instructions. Is there a good source from which you can get a PDF of the documentation online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering because I bet a few people out there haven't got all of theirs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T09:53:24.593" Title="How to find your manual?" Tags="|service-manual|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24748" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:49:38.233" Score="13" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was amused when I saw one of the statistics for my VW Passat B5.5 car, which stated as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kerb weight with driver - 1425kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a very weird question and I hope its not too inappropriate to ask here on a &quot;Maintenance &amp;amp; Repair&quot; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How much does VW's driver weigh?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, what is the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; kerb weight of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:59:44.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T03:00:48.283" Title="How much does a driver weigh?" Tags="|car|weight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24739" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:20:58.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase your user &amp;amp; service manual from the dealer. Some older manuals may no longer be available from the manufacturer, so you will have to search eBay, clubs, etc, to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haynes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Haynes&lt;/a&gt; creates manuals that can be purchased online or in your local automotive stores. Do your research first, some people claim that they can be better or worse than your factory manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiE2p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiE2p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T21:20:58.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24850" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:19:25.083" Score="4" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for winter tires, I have 16 inch in the front and 15inch in the back, both are winter tires, is this deadly? I know I should change this but the car I'm driving is gonna go after this winter, I'm getting a new one, so don't want to shell out 300$ on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front tires: michelin siz:205/55/16&#xA;Rear tires: goodrich size:195/65/15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14317" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:18:42.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:18:42.643" Title="Tires uneven measurements" Tags="|honda|tires|civic|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T22:19:27.187" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a grommet inside my Tacoma tailgate that was guiding the opening rod from the handle to one of the side locking mechanism but messed up its housing in an accident so I can't really fit a replacement. So now the metal rod is macgyvered on with some chicken wire. It works but the wire rusts every couple of years or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZgA4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend using half pipe (so I can fit it around and not over) plastic tubing between the rod and the body part it's rubbing on and which also has a tendency to rust? E.g. something as simple as a pen tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:20:56.903" Title="Metal rubbing metal padding" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-14T23:12:03.510" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;My low beam headlights quit working. I checked all of the fuses. They are good.  What are my next steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14318" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T10:03:04.600" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T10:39:25.407" Title="Low beam head lights quit working" Tags="|honda|electrical|headlight|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24745" CreationDate="2016-01-14T23:20:56.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do one of two things (or maybe a combination?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxFLK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxFLK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like the tab which holds the rod does anything structurally. Either remove it (green line) or cut it back (maroon curve). In either case, this would leave the rod hanging free where it's not connecting with the body panel. Make sure you keep the hole at the top where you have it strung through right now so you'll still have a mounting point for the rod. To reconnect the rod, get some stainless steel wire to tie it up. This will ensure it doesn't rust again. Should never have to worry about it afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you could try is, cutting the area back (like I was suggesting above). You'll want to go to a hardware store and buy a stainless steel washer which is about the right size to hold the rod but still have some slop around it. Cut a notch in the washer so it will go over the rod, then weld the washer onto the tail gate housing to hold the rod in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, get something like POR15 and coat anything which looks like it could rust except the rod itself. Since it is on the inside of the tail gate, you should have to look at any ugly stuff. After this you should never have to worry about it rusting again and I would think it would last for what ever life is left in your truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T23:20:56.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2016-01-14T23:42:35.447" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultimatespecs.com/car-specs/Volkswagen/2964/Volkswagen-Passat-B55-19-TDI-130-6sp.html&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, it shows the curb weight of a &lt;strong&gt;Volkswagen Passat B5.5 1.9 TDI 130 6sp&lt;/strong&gt; to be 1342 kg. Subtracting this from your number, it comes up with 83 kg for your driver weight, or about 183 lbs for us 'Mericans ;-) This should be fairly close as long as it is the same spec as yours. It should be fairly close, though. I'd imagine there are some differences in curb weight between the automatic and standard versions, but it's not going to be that great of a difference. Besides, 83 kg seems like a fairly usable &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; for driver weight ... but that's getting into opinion realm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T03:00:48.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T03:00:48.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24758" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:55:44.187" Score="10" ViewCount="9537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that straight/short/custom pipes can burn out valves on an engine. However, with a 4-cylinder Ford Model A engine, I have been told this is not the case because it has such low compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any validity to straight/short/custom pipes burning valves, what is the cause and why does it happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2022-06-17T11:33:50.060" Title="Do straight/short pipes burn out valves?" Tags="|exhaust|engine-theory|valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:57:57.280" Score="5" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '97 Dodge Stratus, 4cylinder 2.0L that I purchased nearly a year and a half ago. It has approximately 140,000 miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It struggles to accelerate properly at certain speeds. The sound resembles  &quot;spitting &amp;amp; sputtering&quot;, and feels as if it's going to shut off, (but hasn't yet). With light bucking at times, I will hear something like air being released quickly out of a compressor. It sounds as if it is coming from the engine on the drivers side. The check engine light just came on. What would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14320" LastEditorUserId="14320" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T04:20:45.767" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T04:20:45.767" Title="Dodge Stratus struggling to accelerate" Tags="|dodge|stratus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-08T15:21:43.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:15:44.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This definitely sounds like some brake pads are worn down to the indicator wear bar. It is supposed to make a screeching noise when this happens. Don't take the car back to the mechanic who said this was normal for an automatic! But do take it to a reputable shop for another opinion. And yes, both points of your question are probably due to the same condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12525" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:15:44.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2016-01-15T01:48:51.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;LOL - I literally just dealt with exactly the same problem too.  What I did is stick a roof heating wire inside the tank and plug it into a wall outlet for 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution from a friend was to boil water and continuously pour it in the tank until the ice is melted, then normally drain all the water using the pump to spray it all out and then fill the tank with -35c windshield washer fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those summer windshield washer fluids should be banned from north countries, seriously :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T01:48:51.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T07:51:22.563" Score="2" ViewCount="1632" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will factory 2016 Toyota Corolla &quot;S&quot; 17&quot; wheels and tires fit a 2014 Scion Xd without rubbing? Both have the same 5x100 bolt pattern. Is one wider than the other? Will they rub? Speedometer will be off a little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14325" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:25:33.263" Title="Will factory 2016 Toyota Corolla &quot;S&quot; 17&quot; wheels and tires fit a 2014 Scion Xd without rubbing?" Tags="|toyota|tires|wheels|corolla|scion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24884" CreationDate="2016-01-15T08:14:53.850" Score="31" ViewCount="29960" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two stroke gasoline engine exhaust pipes are shaped strange.  They expand into a wide diameter and then shrink down to a very small diameter where the exhaust gasses emerge into the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- Why are they shaped in such a strange way?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- What is the large expansion in the exhaust pipe for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- Why does the diameter reduce so dramatically at the end?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gr9Ob.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gr9Ob.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2017-02-25T17:41:50.983" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T17:41:50.983" Title="Why do two-stroke engine exhaust pipes look so strange?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|exhaust|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24755" CreationDate="2016-01-15T08:59:54.203" Score="21" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Briefly:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exhaust pipes are shaped to suck gasses out of the combustion chamber over a range of RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Somewhat longer:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a 2 stroke engine without an exhaust&lt;sup&gt;*1&lt;/sup&gt;. When the exhaust valve opens, burned gasses leave the cylinder. Leave the valve open for a long enough time and the cylinder will be at ambient air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now run the engine at a fixed speed and add a straight pipe as exhaust. When the exhaust valve opens a wave of compressed gasses will flow into the pipe, progress to the end of the pipe, and expand into the surrounding atmosphere. At this time a reverse (low pressure) wave will enter the pipe and travel back to the cylinder.  Time this right and you can suck some of the remaining burned gasses out of the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a straight pipe only works for one small range of RPMs.  But if you change the pipe to a V-shape it will work more gradually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the big questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the only reason? (No idea, it is one of the reasons to shape an exhaust pipe).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this interact with sound damping? (Which I suspect is the second part of the exhaust which you have shown).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly I will have to leave those two for others to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vuuy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vuuy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Straight exhaust pipe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information from  – Perkins who has more detailed knowledge. Put into the answer since I understand that comments will eventually disappear from answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little more complicated. Two-stroke engines have new fuel-air mixture coming into the cylinder at the same time as the exhaust is leaving. Sucking sufficient quantity of exhaust out of the cylinder is trivial. The wierdly-shaped exhaust pipes like the one pictured are actually tuned for a specific RPM range, and they first suck a larger quantity of fuel-air through the engine, and then the pressure wave bounces off the second narrow part and pushes the extra fuel-air back into the cylinder at a higher pressure, reducing fuel waste and increasing performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;HR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*1&lt;/sup&gt;: Ignore the risk of dirt getting into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T22:25:30.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T22:25:30.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T09:03:35.023" Score="16" ViewCount="7249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a brake flush the exact same thing as replacing the brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:01:57.163" Title="Brake flush vs. Replacing the brake fluid" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|flush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24749" CreationDate="2016-01-15T09:22:35.677" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Human Error&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have firm belief that the cause of burned valves with short pipes is due completely to human error, lack of understanding and poor judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this myth has been perpetuated by actual 'evidence' of having burned valves but the attribution of the cause is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guy with burned valves story&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He has a hot rod he builds.  He uses the engine out of an old Camaro that had glass packs on it.  He orders short pipes, a Holly Quadrajet and an HEI.  When it's all done he drives it around and it's loud.  One day he tears his heads off cuz it's running crappy and discovers burned valves.  He looks over at his friend and says, &quot;Damn short pipes.&quot;  His friend nods his head in affirmation and says, &quot;Yup.&quot;  The myth begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Poor attribution and assumption of cause&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The builder had heard the story, was warned by his friends that his pipes should be longer, ordered them anyway and learned his lesson.  Now he is preaching the gospel and telling all his car friends and everyone on the message board about how he put short pipes on his 'ride' and they burned up the valves.  &quot;You should have seen them.  They looked like burned brussel sprouts on the end of black sticks.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His testimony is revered by his crowd because his rod is the baddest one and they go on and wash, rinse, repeat the story.  Perpetual motion myth.  It even generates it's own energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two guys from Motor Vehicle Maintenance &amp;amp; Repair talk while dude builds his hot rod&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;How does he know that the float level in the carburetor is correct, do think he knows that it will effect his AFR across the whole range?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I don't know, I don't see an exhaust gas analyzer around here at all.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;No, he doesn't have an EGA, what do you think he'll do to ensure his mixture is right.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;He said he can smell lean or rich, that he has a nose for it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;HE DOES WHAT?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I know right, he's going to adjust his mixture by smelling his exhaust.  What's he doing now?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;He's eyeballing his timing.  Says his eyes never lie.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;His advance is too retarded&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I know, brutal.  That thing is super lean.  He's gonna burn his valves&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....and that's how it really happened.  The guy with the burned valves jetted his carburetor incorrectly and set his float level too low.  He didn't set his timing correctly either and had a late spark right at TDC, not before.  The lean condition combined with a late spark left some of the lean over oxygenated intake charge still burning when his exhaust valves began to crack open.  The still slightly burning superheated exhaust gasses from too much oxygen in the AFR from incorrect carburetor settings slowly overheated his valves and they deteriorated over time until they began to even crack a bit.  At that point the performance drop off was noticeable enough where dude began to look into it.  After months of troubleshooting he finally tore the heads off and discovered burned valves and gave attribution to the short pipes rather than his lean mixture and retarded timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dudes valve.  Bummer dude     :-(&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pIQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pIQI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T18:26:56.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T18:26:56.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24757" CreationDate="2016-01-15T09:44:04.350" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There is no difference between the two.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace it, you have to flush out the old brake fluid with new fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/22341/675&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on how to bleed brake lines for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T10:28:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24749" CreationDate="2016-01-15T10:25:23.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Straight pipes are not the root cause.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24758/675&quot;&gt;DucatiKiller&lt;/a&gt; that straight pipes by themselves are not to be blamed; if the valves are prone to getting burnt there is clearly another issue going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But they can exacerbate matters.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have practical experience to support this, but fluid dynamics theory would suggest this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flow through the valve is proportional¹ to the pressure drop between the combustion chamber and the back of the valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With straight/stubby/short/no pipes, the pressure drop will be greater, so the rate of exhaust gas flow past the valve will be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;↑ Flow rate → ↑ Wear rate&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - &lt;em&gt;non-linearly&lt;/em&gt; proportional, mind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T10:25:23.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1186" CreationDate="2016-01-15T10:43:23.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;this war radio wiring diagram will help you :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDPQn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDPQn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14202" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T10:43:23.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T11:18:59.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered a method purely by accident not long ago.  It only works on a driven wheel and you need to be very careful when using this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack the car up and support if firmly on axle stands.  If the car has a locking or limited slip differential you'll need all driven wheels off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the road wheel from the brake disc you wish to remove and remove or drill our any retaining screws.  Start the engine, engage the gears and get the wheels spinning.  Now apply the foot brake sharply.  This technique very rapidly overcomes any issues of corrosion of the brake disc to the hub.  I've personally done it and it works but is certainly not a prescribed method you'll find in any workshop manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T11:18:59.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T11:56:23.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly how I wound up owning the cheapest angle grinder I could find, except it was a Mondeo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the inside of the disc had rusted enough that it was wrapping around the back of the hub, I could belt it with a mallet to the point that the whole car was shaking but it wouldn't budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made 2 radial cuts in the disc on opposite sides, working from the outside right down to the hub. You don't need to cut through the mating face or even all the way through the rest of the disc as the heat stress will crack it along the cut when you're close to the hub. Once the cuts/cracks reach to the mating face of the disc (where the bolts go through) it'll open up slightly and you'll be able to hammer it off the hub. &lt;strong&gt;Be careful not to hit the wheel studs with the angle grinder&lt;/strong&gt;... like I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T11:56:23.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T12:28:06.763" Score="7" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;As oil is used in an engine, it ages, creating oligomers. Is there a way that we can separate these oligomers without affecting the additives in the oil???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14328" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T22:53:14.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T22:53:14.010" Title="Additives in Engine Oil" Tags="|oil|diesel|oil-filter|additive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:10:32.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24721/3725&quot;&gt;duckboy answer&lt;/a&gt;, I took out the windshield washer tank of the car and took it inside to let it unfreeze. This was a really easy job (look for your own car how to do it) but in my case (a vw jetta city 2009) it was 2x 10mm bolt, an electric connector to the pump and the windshield washer hose comming out of the pump. It took me about 5min to have the tank in my hand out of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going this route I suggest you have some plan ready to avoid making a mess inside with the windshield washer fluid (maybe put it in the bath, a sink, or a larger bucket) because in my case this step wasn't done so I had to improvise at work. I took several plastic bag but there still was fluid comming out of the bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will reinstall the tank in my lunch time later today and I will see if I need to do anything else to unfreeze the hoses (I don't think because there was a rather larger spot of windshield washer under where I was parked so the lines might have just emptied themselves while it was still hot under to hood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are tempted to let the car idle to built up heat to melt the fluid (as per DucatiKiller suggestion in the comments to the question) be aware that after 9+ hours inside, the fluid wasn't all liquid so this might not be a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T12:56:52.883" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T12:56:52.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:25:42.867" Score="4" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told that upgrading the Camshaft in my GM 454 will increase performance. What will this do exactly and what will the engine actually gain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10069286 block casting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;454cu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'90-'91 MY, Mark IV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;short deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stock rectangular port heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine has been rebuilt and bored .020&quot; over. Otherwise stock. &#xA;Hedman headers, 3&quot; exhaust, stock intake manifold and 4 barrel Rochester carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock hydraulic camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 209&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./209 exh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advertised Intake Duration: 273&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advertised Exhaust Duration: 298&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advertised Duration: 273 int./298 exh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.479 in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.483 in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T16:28:05.827" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T03:06:50.867" Title="What will upgrading the Camshaft do to my BBC 454?" Tags="|engine|performance|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:52:28.537" Score="10" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;What must be accounted for when building an engine for performance applications? How do you methodically plan a build? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for instance a &lt;strong&gt;stock Small Block Chevy&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Budget&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand with an endless budget you will be working with top engine builders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one assess where he or she can make the most gains from a budget conscious standpoint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goal&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to increase horsepower, torque, acceleration and mid-high range power &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; possible, for street applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it as &lt;em&gt;simple&lt;/em&gt; as saying, &quot;let's start with a stroker kit and move on from there? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I evaluate changes for positive or negative engine performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T15:37:34.540" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T15:37:34.540" Title="How do you plan an engine build?" Tags="|engine-theory|performance|horsepower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:55:06.997" Score="4" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24248/are-there-downsides-to-making-an-accessory-socket-always-live-if-accessories-ar&quot;&gt;Are there downsides to making an accessory socket always live, if accessories are removed when not in use?&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've find guides for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rav4world.com/forums/98-4-3-interior/76791-mod-how-make-your-12-volt-outlets-hot-all-times.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3rd generation RAV4&lt;/a&gt;, which makes it sound like a reasonably simple task - basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pop open the panel above the pedals, by the hood release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the relay for the socket (middle of three)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the two copper contacts with wiring that can handle up to 10A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to (cautiously) work out how to translate these to my elderly RAV4.1, and here are the points I've come stuck. Please be aware this is my first mod, so I'm being extremely cautious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The procedure for popping out the panel is different. On my '98, the panel has two screws at the bottom - after unscrewing these, there's some other attachment at the top which I can't work loose without feeling like I'm going to snap the plastic. Also, the fuse box is on the outside of this panel, so it's connected to some pretty delicate looking wiring. How do I safely remove this panel? I've looked around, and checked the owner's manual, with no success. Doesn't help that I can't find the &quot;correct&quot; name for this panel to search for how to open it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From what I can see behind the panel, it looks different to the pictures of the more recent model. How will I know which is the relay for the accessory AKA cigarette lighter socket?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm reasonably confident that once I find the right relay, it'll be plain sailing, but since this is my first mod I'd appreciate a comment on whether crossing the connectors risks breaking anything if I made a mistake. I'm aware of the importance of using wire that won't melt or burn if a device draws 10A and I'll be double and triple checking wiring diagrams for this model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I thought I'd found wiring diagrams (but on looking again, they were for the wrong model. I have however found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1998-2000/toyota/rav4/2015.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a table&lt;/a&gt; which sounds like an adequate description for finding the right cable - but I'm not sure how reliable the source is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 &lt;strong&gt;//&lt;/strong&gt; BLUE/RED (+) (18 Gauge wire) &lt;strong&gt;//&lt;/strong&gt; @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T15:23:50.277" Title="Making a 1st Gen (1998) RAV4's accessory socket always live - which relay and how to access it?" Tags="|toyota|rav4|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24769" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:22:26.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to add a second socket, rather than trying to adapt the original one - you can buy a socket from most car accessory shops, add a suitable in-line fuse if it doesn't come with one, then it's just a case of finding a suitable live feed to tap into (in fact, given the purpose you want to use it for, I'd suggest that you run a dedicated feed back to the battery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:22:26.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:26:59.240" Score="6" ViewCount="7740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mitsubishi Colt (2004 model, 5-door) where I've replaced the factory head unit / radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this meant I lost the capability of switching the trip computer modes (instant/average fuel consumption, expected range, etc.), since the mode switching button was embedded in the head unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgfo3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgfo3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;colt factory radio&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the dashboard there are 2 connectors, one for the head unit main functions (power, speakers, etc.) and another for the trip computer (to display the station, CD track number, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switching the factory head unit the trip computer connector was left unused, but I suppose it has some control wires that change the mode when shorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 14-connector plug, but it only has 6 wires running into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAA2s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tAA2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;colt LCD plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the pinout for this connector? &#xA;I was thinking of attaching a pushbutton switch to change the mode. Would it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14329" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T18:47:00.770" Title="Mitsubishi Colt trip computer mode change?" Tags="|audio|mitsubishi|electronics|colt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24768" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:36:48.863" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;bit of a braindump...  Hard to get more specific without more specific requirements...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a drag car, track car, street car, daily driver, etc.  Basically this will lead you to - where do you need power and how much do you need.  &quot;Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about everything is a balance of top end power vs bottom end power.  For most cars, you will aim to midrange to get the best overall.  Drag cars will aim for all top end.  Trucks/larger vehicles will aim for more bottom end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some general conditions...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;to move the power down:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;longer stroke&lt;br&gt;&#xA;longer intake runner&lt;br&gt;&#xA;smaller ports in the head and manifolds&lt;br&gt;&#xA;smaller valves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These help to accelerate air flow at lower RPM, but choke it out at higher RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to move power up:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;less stroke&lt;br&gt;&#xA;shorter intake runners&lt;br&gt;&#xA;large port head&lt;br&gt;&#xA;larger valves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cam with big lift/duration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically when you are buying parts (especially cams, heads, intake) it will say what range it will focus the power.  You want to try and match all of these together.  Parts need to work together.  Having a big valve head with an intake or carb that can't keep up isn't going to work.  Likewise, if the ports are too large for the RPM you are aiming for, power will suffer.  The engine is a system, if all the parts aren't tuned together, it is not going to perform its best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts such as the carburetor, and ignition just need to work correctly.  Carb needs to be sized properly and TUNED.  EFI is nice, but takes a bit of work to hook up.  Typically has data logging, so very useful for exact tuning.  Depends on your goals if you want carb or EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;stroking and boring should add power all around as they increase the displacement of the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forced induction (nitrous, turbo charger, supercharger) is going to give you the biggest bang for your buck if your looking to make BIG power (500hp+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are in there, you want to be sure to cover all your standard rebuild items first - gaskets, bearings, oil pump, timing gear, etc.  DONT CHEAP ON HARDWARE.  go with upgraded rod bolts, main studs, head studs, stronger rods and pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really interested in building a SBC, there are hundreds if not thousands of books published.  SBC is one of the most common engines in the race world.  They sky is the limit on aftermarket parts.  People have been racing SBCs for over 50 years now.  Hit some forums, car clubs and shows, track days, Friday night at the track.  See what other people have build, how it runs, what works, what doesn't, things they have learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sky is the limit, your going to be working with a top level professional and building top dollar engine, not rebuilding some old engine with advice you got from people on the internet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T14:46:24.083" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:46:24.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24771" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:52:37.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connect the factory head unit to the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pressing the button measure each wire for changes. You should see a noticeable fluctuation that matches the button pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap into the cable(s) and create your own little harness with connector. Get a standard connector at the local auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect the button of your choice to the connector. Bonus point if you can make it look from the factory. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if this doesn't work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the button is part of a control module that is linked to the display. In that case, you would have to perform surgery on the radio unit and remove the module. Then it would be a matter of placing it in a convenient but not visible area of the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:52:37.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:02:23.873" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;When driving my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix Wide track, it feels as if the emergency brake is on even though it isn't. What is causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14334" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T16:08:09.807" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:08:09.807" Title="Emergency Brakes feel like they are set but are not" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|grand-prix|emergency-brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24757" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:02:55.843" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some places, a brake flush might include some sort of additive used to clean the braking system. Its usually a gimmick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the brake fluid itself is what it means. But flushes can vary between places and most of the time (from experience 99.999999999999%) its a gimmick to get your money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T15:02:55.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:19:22.120" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that the brakes on the 2013 Chevy Cruze would squeak if the rotors had condensation etc. They had already resurfaced front rotors, adjusted and cleaned the rear pads and told me basically to live with it due to age of car (2013 with 43000 miles) and was all they could do. I have it in now for third visit and I do know that a service advisory has come out on this problem and they said it came out after I had my car in for service. Told them I would not pay for anymore work on brakes since I had already paid for the problem to be fixed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14335" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T18:54:36.407" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T18:54:36.407" Title="Brake squeaks on 2013 Cruze" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|cruze|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24780" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:21:10.160" Score="15" ViewCount="8001" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2013 Subaru WRX has a 5-speed manual, and I long for it to have a 6th gear when cruising on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend has a 2012 Subaru STI with a 6-speed manual, and I noticed his car runs through the gears more quickly to achieve the same speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 3300-3500 RPMs, shouldn't the WRX be able to achieve better gas mileage by keeping the same 5-speed gear ratios, while adding an additional gear to lower RPMs to 2800-3000?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T23:05:10.410" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T23:05:10.410" Title="Why do 5 and 6-speed transmissions typically need different gear ratios?" Tags="|transmission|manual-transmission|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:37:04.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles will only have a single overdrive, where the second to the last gear will be a 1:1 ratio (or something near it). The notable thing here is the Tremec 6-speed transmissions (used in the Camaro, Viper, Corvette, Mustang, and others) which have the double overdrive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of &lt;em&gt;more gears&lt;/em&gt; is to allow the vehicle to stay in the torque/hp range for the trade-off to gain fuel economy. More gears means the engine can be tuned to perform it's best at the smaller rpm range. For instance, with more gears the rpm range in question may be from 1500-2250rpm rather than 1000-3000rpm (for normal operations ... we're excluding &lt;em&gt;spirited driving&lt;/em&gt; here). If the manufacturer tunes for the smaller range, they can get more out of the engine while maintaining better fuel efficiency. With the broader range the engine has to be able to perform over the complete range, so the tune has to be done to accommodate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles will not have a double overdrive because they do not have the torque to maintain the speed at the lower RPMs. Given a 4-cyl engine which, while having great hp output at the higher rpms, does not have the torque needed to successfully propel a car if it were driven at 1500 rpm at 70+ mph. The car would either need to be dropped down a gear to accommodate, or the engine would be lugged with the driver mashing on the pedal ... both of which would defeat the purpose of having more gears in the first place ... that being to gain fuel mileage and drivability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T16:43:38.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T16:43:38.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2016-01-15T15:39:21.307" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: different gear ratios are a feature, not a bug.  Some cars use more gears for acceleration, some use them for better gas mileage. You can't do both.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At 3300-3500 RPMs, shouldn't the WRX be able to achieve better gas mileage by keeping the same 5-speed gear ratios, while adding an additional gear to lower RPMs to 2800-3000?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've exposed the classic trade off in transmissions. We want to get the spinning motion of the motor to turn into spinning motion of the wheels. Unfortunately, the engine has a maximum rotational speed (the redline is there for a reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gears in the transmission are really just multipliers in the rotational velocity equation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, a picture:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image, you can see that the larger gear A (being driven by the motor) is driving the smaller gear B (used to turn the wheels).  &lt;em&gt;Yes, I know that there are more bits after this gear but for the sake of discussion let's forget final drives, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yOKo.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yOKo.gif&quot; alt=&quot;An animated GIF of a low gear ratio.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, you can see that each turn of gear A results in two turns of gear B.  This translates to a gear ratio of 1:2 or 0.5.  If you had this gear in your car, you could cruise at very low revs on the highway (but you'd never get up a hill!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saying it again, in words:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low ratio gear will turn the car tires a low number of times for each engine rotation. A high ratio will turn the car times several times per engine rotation. Thus, a high gear ratio at the top end permits a high top speed. It also means that, at highway speeds, the engine revolves less per linear meter of road. Fewer revs == less gasoline burned per second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: sometimes you will about hear &quot;short&quot; and &quot;tall&quot; gears.  Short gears are the low speed gears (with high ratios) and tall gears are for high speeds (with low ratios).  This inversion of terminology is one of the great joys of trying to discuss transmissions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a high gear ratio has a lower mechanical advantage. This means that it's harder to accelerate the vehicle (tires have to turn faster to get the car to go faster). A fuel efficient gear ratio is also not a fun gear ratio (less zip). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you really want to accelerate quickly, adding gear ratios down low (say a six speed rather than a five speed) lets you stay at a higher mechanical advantage for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're focused on fuel efficiency, you can also take what is effectively a five speed and put a really low gear up top for highway cruising. This will get your mpg numbers up but will be extremely non fun (you might even be below the minimum revs required to spin up the turbo). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back to the specific cars in question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at the WRX vs STI gear ratios, it's clear that the WRX has a low ratio first and second gear so that you only have to shift once to reach 60 mph.  This is purely an effort to optimize the 0-60 time (marketing. Sigh). In the STI six speed, the gear ratios of the first five gears are spaced pretty evenly between the gear ratios of the first four of the WRX. This means that the STI won't feel that slog through first and second that we five speeders have to labor through.  Even the sixth gear of the STI is still a higher ratio than the fifth gear of the WRX. Cruising won't be as relaxed but you'll be better able to accelerate from 50 mph to some higher number.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T23:26:32.863" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T23:26:32.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18737" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:00:17.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vacuum leak and sounds like you need to bleed your clutch. Bleeding the clutch is not that hard. For the vacuum leak, the main place you want to check is the actuator that should be under the battery tray. Look around for cracked lines, or lines that look older. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to bleed the clutch, you want to follow the lines that go under the vehicle and there will be a bleeder valve near the right side of the front differential. Have another person push down on the clutch pedal as you unscrew the valve a little bit. Don't take it all the way out, just enough to get the air out of the system. Make sure your are adding in fluid to the reservoir so no air goes back in. Close the valve after your friend pushes the clutch down. The pedal should stay all the way down to the floor. This is normal, simply pull the pedal back all the way. Repeat this process till you can feel the clutch disengaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T19:25:09.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T19:25:09.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24784" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:12:25.840" Score="9" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;p&gt;While reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24778/why-do-5-and-6-speed-transmissions-typically-need-different-gear-ratios&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; it came to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why did manufacturers start building transmissions without a 1:1 ratio?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the older transmission you'd see the 1:1 ratio all the time, either as the final drive ratio or the one just before the overdrive. Is there a &lt;em&gt;reason&lt;/em&gt; for this, either technically, mechanically, or financially? Seems to me it would cost more to create your transmission as such because a 1:1 (to me) would entail less gearing*. &lt;em&gt;Power in = Power out&lt;/em&gt; ... help me to understand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*Note:&lt;/strong&gt; By &lt;em&gt;gearing&lt;/em&gt; here, I probably should have said &lt;em&gt;engineering&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T19:56:28.250" Title="Why did manufacturers go to other than 1:1 transmission ratios?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24782" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:55:36.180" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Gearbox designers should avoid integer ratios like the plague.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For mechanical reasons&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Integer ratios will accelerate wear and tear because it increases the frequency with which tooth A on the driver gear will meet tooth B on the driven gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This frequency is known as the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hunting tooth frequency&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which I've explained in more detail &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19421/675&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regarding 1:1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1:1 is a special case known as &lt;em&gt;direct-drive&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24782/why-did-manufacturers-go-to-other-than-11-transmission-ratios#comment38047_24784&quot;&gt;The input shaft is locked with the output shaft&lt;/a&gt;, so the above argument doesn't really apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overdrive_(mechanics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheds some reasonable light&lt;/a&gt; on this matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In an era when different models of car with different wheel sizes could be accommodated by simply changing the final drive ratio, it made sense for all transmissions to use direct drive as the highest gear. As noted earlier, however, this would cause the engine to operate at too high an RPM for efficient cruising. Although adding the cruising gear to the main gearbox was possible, it was generally simpler to add a separate two-gear overdrive system to the existing gearbox. This not only meant that it could be tuned for different vehicles, but had the additional advantage that it could be offered as an option, which was easy to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret that to mean there are a few motivating factors at play (denoted in brackets):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1:1 isn't sufficient as a final gear ratio because the resultant engine RPM is too high for the cruising speeds of modern vehicles (&lt;em&gt;mechanical&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is simpler to design the gearbox to have two overdrive gears than have direct drive with one overdrive gear (&lt;em&gt;cost, manufacturing, engineering&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A design with two overdrive gears is easier to tune for different vehicles, making the same gearbox design more universal (&lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T19:56:28.250" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T17:37:31.810" Score="7" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;RE 2001 Ford Explorer &#xA;It has a new battery, coil, and wires in place. The truck will not start below -7 F despite strong cranking; in these temperatures, sound of fuel pump priming is muted or absent.  Upon rewarming, the truck starts briskly and pump sounds return.  No other classic signs of fuel pump failure.  Any ideas that you may have would be hugely appreciated.  Thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14340" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T19:20:54.970" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:30:21.163" Title="Failure to start in frigid temperatures" Tags="|ford|starting|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:05:25.477" Score="8" ViewCount="2054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW 328 -98, or in other words, an E36 with the M52 engine. I cannot for the life of me understand how the coolant system works on this engine, and therefore not how to properly top it up after having drained it for engine work. Googling around seems to yield contradictory results, and the Haynes manual also reads unclearly, and nowhere at all can I find any more complete explanation of how the system actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some concrete things that confuse me about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin with, I do not understand why the coolant system needs a bleed screw at all. Isn't the whole purpose of the expansion tank that the coolant passes through it and therefore air bubbles that come along stay in it? In fact, I have never noticed a coolant system bleed screw on any other car -- does this engine use some different kind of &quot;paradigm&quot; for cooling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when starting to fill the coolant system, when I have the expansion tank cap off and the bleeds screw unscrewed, I repeatedly fill the coolant up to the top of the expansion tank and let the level subside, at which point it always seems to stay on the &quot;COLD&quot;-mark on the expansion tank. How can this be? When I fill it up more, shouldn't the expansion tank, you know, fill up? How is it that the coolant level always subsides to the same level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the Haynes manual states that I should &quot;top the expansion tank up until coolant free of air bubbles is visible in the hole for the unscrewed bleed screw&quot; (admittedly not an exact quote, as I don't have the manual with me here). However, since the bleed screw hole is at the same level as the top of the expansion tank, doesn't that mean that the expansion tank will be completely full when that happens? Do I subsequently need to &quot;drain&quot; the expansion tank down to the &quot;COLD&quot;-mark after having verified coolant in the bleed screw hole? The Haynes manual sure doesn't mention that I should have to do anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I've been trying to find schematics of the coolant system on-line in order to be able to understand it, but when I look at images such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAAQ9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, it seems to indicate that the top of the expansion tank is connected almost directly to the top of the radiator. That seems absurd to me, since that would mean that the expansion tank would have to be full all the time in order for the radiator to be filled, which it obviously isn't (and isn't supposed to be, as the &quot;COLD&quot;-mark is half-way up on the expansion tank). How is this explained?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T21:01:15.567" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:01:15.567" Title="BMW M52 coolant refilling" Tags="|coolant|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24795" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:26:56.063" Score="8" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Audi s4 (B8.5) that has around 35,000 km and the brakes are already squealing when I slow down by braking gradually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is intense, and very annoying. It comes and goes but for the most part it's always there. Can something like that be enforced to be fixed by the manufacturer? The car is under a 4-year warranty. I should also mention that I brake very gradually by nature but I believe that shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="14341" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:07:19.203" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T15:50:53.130" Title="Squealing brakes on 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5)" Tags="|brakes|noise|audi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:03:47.277" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 83 Tbird with a caburated 3.8. The check engine light came on but I can't locate the Mcu port. I have checked everywhere but none and even no capped wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check a ford diagnostic manual that had a chart for models. It said that they only put the port on the '83 3.8 California tbird cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wouldn't there be a diagnostic port if there is a check engine light? None of the ford forums have been able to help. I've been to many junkyards getting parts and the port is always in the same place. But I haven't found an 83 with a 3.8. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:07:18.543" Title="1983 Ford Thunderbird MCU port" Tags="|ford|thunderbird|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24801" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:28:06.597" Score="8" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sR9-157vKQ&quot;&gt;car review&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube recently. I know that carbon ceramic brakes are often a huge optional extra on cars and they're normally physically huge as well (from what I can tell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the difference between standard and carbon ceramic brakes?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T00:47:18.230" Title="Standard vs Carbon Ceramic Brake Discs - What do you pay for?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24792" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:38:30.993" Score="3" ViewCount="2315" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know that gear stick that we all use so much? Well, I know what it does in the sense that I know how to change gear and drive a car with a manual gearbox, but I don't know much more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is a gearbox?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it look like (a diagram, animation or picture would be helpful here)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens underneath the gear stick when I move it around with the clutch pedal down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the gearbox (transmission?, gear train?) connect to the clutch (or anything else for that matter)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:19:19.333" Title="What exactly is a gearbox?" Tags="|transmission|car|gears|gear-stick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24786" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:42:41.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not understand why the coolant system needs a bleed screw at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Because air pockets.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filling up coolant doesn't necessitate that the entire system will be filled with coolant. There are parts of your cooling system that will trap air when it is refilled. The bleed screw is a means to expel the trapped air from the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I repeatedly fill the coolant up to the top of the expansion tank and let the level subside, at which point it always seems to stay on the &quot;COLD&quot;-mark on the expansion tank. How can this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Keep on filling. It will eventually stop subsiding.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you're filling up your entire cooling system, not just the expansion tank. It will take time for the water to fill up the radiator and other subsequent parts of the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, since the bleed screw hole is at the same level as the top of the expansion tank, doesn't that mean that the expansion tank will be completely full when that happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the level, but if what you say is true then yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I subsequently need to &quot;drain&quot; the expansion tank down to the &quot;COLD&quot;-mark after having verified coolant in the bleed screw hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;No&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have an auxiliary pump for the heater, so your refilling procedure is performed with the heater lines shut. This means that the coolant level will actually drop the moment you start up the engine and turn the heater on full (which I highly recommend you do for a few minutes, even if your manual doesn't highlight this). Recheck the level after this is done and refill to the appropriate level if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T19:42:41.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24790" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:43:14.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to an article that describes what you're looking for in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the gearbox does is allow the engine to run at the RPM range that it is most happy, while allowing your wheels to run at the speed which you desire. It does that through a collection of gears who's ratio determines how fast the wheels turn for a given engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the following comes from the article on transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vszpA.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vszpA.gif&quot; alt=&quot;A simplified transmission&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green shaft comes from the engine and spins at engine speed as long as the clutch allows the engine to be connected to it. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;All the gears on the red shaft spin together.&lt;br&gt; All the blue gears on the yellow shaft are mounted on splined gears so they can shift back and forth.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; The purple collar is attached to the gear shift knob, which changes which blue gear is attached to the red gears. This example is only a two speed transmission, but it's the same principle for any manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch is the device that connects and disconnects the engine from the rest of the transmission. This allows the gears to be changed without that wonderful grinding noise you mentioned. That grinding is cause by the gear ratio you have selected not matching the engine speed to the wheel speed very well. This happened a lot more before syncromesh which is a system for bringing the gears together gradually rather than slamming them together. The slamming required you to manually get the engine RPM correct with the gas pedal to match the engine RPM to car speed through the gear you selected. If you missed on the RPM, you got the crunch. Synchromesh brings the gears together gradually, allowing the two gears to find each others speed without you having to get it exactly right with the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the clutch, here's a photo of one from another linked article&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lj6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lj6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interior of a manual transmission showing the clutch (far left)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch plate is the disk with the springs on it all the way to the left. The clutch plate is two plates that are connected together in such a way that they can slide over each other for a short distance. The springs keep the plates together, but when the engine is first connected to the gears (by letting out the clutch pedal) the springs compress to put some give in the system and prevent a lurching forward as the connection is suddenly made. The clutch sits between the engine and the green shaft in the first picture, allowing the driver to connect the engine to the wheels or not, via the clutch pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to the article on clutches for more info:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm?utm_source=Outbrain&amp;amp;utm_medium=Referral&amp;amp;utm_campaign=OutbrainOrganicTraffic=obinsite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm?utm_source=Outbrain&amp;amp;utm_medium=Referral&amp;amp;utm_campaign=OutbrainOrganicTraffic=obinsite&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think that was all the parts of your question..&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T20:19:19.333" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:19:19.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24796" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:54:26.293" Score="5" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really understand the idea behind gear ratios. Does this just mean essentially that the gears (cogs) are all different sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What specifically does the term &quot;gear ratios&quot; mean?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T16:31:53.147" Title="What is meant by the term &quot;gear ratios&quot;?" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24754" CreationDate="2016-01-15T20:25:33.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the tire size calculator rpmerf linked&lt;/a&gt; to, the corolla setup will be about 2.4% smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What this mean?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your speedo will read 2.4% faster than it would on your stock tire. For exemple if the speedo read 100km/h you will be going 97.6km/h in reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Will it fit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likly yes it will fit. Since your car could come with tires up to 235mm width from factory. But this of course depend of the offset of the wheel but since toyota and scion are pretty mutch the same brand it should be quite close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What would be the stock tire dimension in 17&quot;?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car model came with the following tire size in 17&quot; : 205/50R17 and 215/50R17 according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheel-size.com/size/scion/xd/2014/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;. It would be best to replace to those dimension once the tires would need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They most likly fit, to be sure we would need the offset of the new wheel to be sure. The tire won't be an OEM size but when they would be worn off you should replace them with the good dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:25:33.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2016-01-15T20:26:26.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Carbon-metallic Brake Pads&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have carbon-metallic brake pads, especially high performance ones like you might find on an Audi S4 (although I can't say for sure), the material that they are made out of do tend to be prone to noise which is an artifact that occurs from the manufacturer trying to optimise for braking efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to Fix Brake Noise&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/advanced-car-maintenance-tips/dealing-with-car-brake-noise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a website&lt;/a&gt; that you may find useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the noise pops up just before your vehicle comes to a complete stop, as opposed to squealing throughout the entire range of braking, the cause could be a brake pad that is vibrating against the rotor. A set of brake pad vibration damper pads could cure the squeal, but there's no guarantee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did say that &lt;code&gt;it comes and goes&lt;/code&gt;, but you also said that for the most part &lt;code&gt;its always there&lt;/code&gt; so I don't know if new brake pad vibration damper pads are going to fix your particular issue but it is definitely something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider would be to replace your brake pads altogether, which may be expensive and doesn't guarantee that it will fix your issue. Also I suspect that it would void your warranty, which on such a new, heavily depreciating car like yours you probably want to do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the only thing I can suggest is taking it back to the dealer to see what they say. Especially if it is happening all the time, not just when you come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; If you have a rather sporty driving style or you go for a track day, your brake temperatures can get hot. It is normal if the brakes produce noise at this point. Just stop and let them cool down for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T20:39:16.400" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T20:39:16.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24793" CreationDate="2016-01-15T20:48:29.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generic term &quot;gear ratios&quot; refers to the ratio of the number of teeth on two meshed gears. Two gears that are meshed (teeth engaged with each other) must have the same sized teeth or they would not mesh. So, given the same sized teeth on both gears the term refers to the ratio of the number of teeth on each gear. For example, if the first gear has 50 teeth, and the second 100 teeth, the gear ratio is 1:2 (pronounced one to two).&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important for things like the differential in your car because changing it will change the speed of your car for a given output shaft speed from the transmission. The transmission, your differential, and the diameter of the drive wheels combined determine vehicle speed for a given engine RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T16:31:53.147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T16:31:53.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24925" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:02:43.123" Score="7" ViewCount="27210" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fluid is defined as anything that flows, hence for our purposes a gas or a liquid. I know that there is fuel, engine oil, engine coolant and brake fluid. Also air is normally taken in through a grill on the front of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are there any other important fluids in a car?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are there any other uses for the ones that I have already mentioned?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;How are these fluids able to be transported from one part of the car to another?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do the liquids have pumps (I know some do)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, is there another oil circuit in order to keep the gearbox functional? Or how does the fuel get from the back of the car to the front (in most cases)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give a brief summary of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of them if you can. There can't be that many!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T14:53:26.377" Title="What are all the different types of fluid in a car and a short summary of their use?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|oil|car|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="841" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:04:34.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In '65, only Mustang GT's and Mustangs equipped with the Deluxe(a/k/a Pony) Interior had an actual ammeter, as opposed to an idiot light. This was an induction-loop ammeter, not the shunt-type ammeter that was used in '66 models and beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hookup is as follows... A BLACK/YELLOW wire runs from the Alternator, through a 3-wire pigtail, under the radiator bracket, along the driver-side fender apron, and ends at a Main Disconnect Harness on the firewall near the master brake cylinder. That BLACK/YELLOW wire then emerges on the inside behind the instrument panel and passes through the loop on the back side of the ammeter gauge. After passing through that loop, the BLACK/YELLOW wire plugs into (via a bullet connector) a heavy-gauge BLACK wire. That BLACK wire then continues through the firewall (through its own rubber grommet), runs along the firewall toward the passenger-side fender, and ultimately attaches to the BATTERY side of the solenoid/starter relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just as an additional FYI, if that circuit loses continuity at any point, the car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14349" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:04:34.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24803" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:07:14.937" Score="8" ViewCount="96549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious, given that fact that a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil-in-a-car-engine&quot;&gt;lack of engine oil&lt;/a&gt; can completely destroy your engine, can a lack of brake fluid completely destroy your brakes? I can imagine how that could be even worst than a broken engine for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*What exactly are all of the disadvantages to running an engine when the brake fluid becomes too low?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2021-03-16T21:05:14.953" Title="What actually happens when there is no brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir?" Tags="|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24788" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:07:18.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this article&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first ODB systems only lit a dashboard light in the case of a problem with no further information about what the problem was. Those early systems didn't have a port to connect to. That would be why there is a check engine light, but no port. It also refers to the first ODB I systems coming out in 1989 for Ford vehicles. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Based on your Ford diagnostic manual it sounds like only the California versions of the '83 T-Bird had the port. Since it's showing a location, and yours isn't there it sounds like your car is not a California car and it's too early to have the port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:07:18.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24789" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:12:14.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The huge size is not limited to carbon ceramic, that's just an attribute of most high performance cars' rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon ceramic brakes are more expensive because the exotic compound does a much better job of dissipating heat than traditional steel rotors. Because they are able to dissipate heat faster, they do not get &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; as quickly as other brakes. &amp;quot;Getting soft&amp;quot; means the brakes perform worse: they do not brake as hard and do not stop the car as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brakes get &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; they are typically too hot to operate. Brakes work by converting physical energy into heat. In some cases, they can also convert this into light energy, as is often the case with carbon ceramic brakes when they glow red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although brakes can also get &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; by boiling your brake fluid or getting air in the lines, you will typically see this due to overheated rotors as opposed to brake fluid issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="25143" LastEditDate="2022-07-06T00:47:18.230" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T00:47:18.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25230" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:12:40.063" Score="12" ViewCount="240832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil-in-a-car-engine&quot;&gt;lack of engine oil&lt;/a&gt; can destroy an engine, so I was curious as to whether it is just as bad to drive a car with a very low engine coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is engine coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly are all of the disadvantages to running an engine when the engine coolant becomes too low?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T22:12:12.317" Title="What actually happens when there is not enough coolant in a car engine?" Tags="|engine|coolant|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24799" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:21:58.993" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having brake fluid in your car won't destroy the brakes, but whatever you hit when the brakes don't work just might. :)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The brakes in basically every passenger car since the 50's are hydraulically operated. That means when you press the brake pedal you are pressurizing some fluid lines. Those lines run out to the wheels where the added pressure forces the pads against the rotors or drums. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYcne.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYcne.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Simplified brake system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If that fluid is low or missing you will end up with nothing but air in those lines. Air is very compressible, which means when you squeeze it it's volume decreases. The brake fluid in your car is for all intents and purposes incompressible. That means when your foot on the brake pedal operates the master cylinder which squeezes the fluid into the lines that force is transmitted almost completely to operating the brakes. When there is air in the line all you do is move the air around a little and you apply very little force into operating the brakes. When you have only a little air in the lines the pedal just feels &quot;spongy&quot; because you compress the bubbles down to nothing and then you are closing the brakes. When there is a lot of air, or no fluid at all, you just don't operate the brakes at all, and you have a very bad day.. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The good news is that topping off the fluid with the right type (DOT-3, DOT-4, and a collection of others are used depending on what car you own) and then bleeding the brakes will bring them right back again. That assumes that when they were dry you didn't end up with any kind of debris in the lines. With no brakes you likely didn't drive it much though.. lol Bleeding the brakes just means opening those hydraulic lines at one wheel at a time and pumping the brakes. That forces the fluid and air through the line and out the tube that's open. Eventually you end up with nothing but fluid and can close that line off and do the same for the others. There's a bit more to it, but that's the simplified version. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottom line, unlike your engine where the fluid is a lubricant, in your brakes the fluid is a hydraulic fluid. So it's not a catastrophic destruction when it's low, just needs to be properly maintained and you're back on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T21:38:55.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:38:55.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24802" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:28:01.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water flow will stop and the heat will not be able to be transferred out of the engine block. Engines cooling systems are very intricate and feature &quot;pockets&quot; depending on how much cooling is needed for a given area. A lack of coolant means that the system will not be able to be pressurized by the pump and the coolant will not flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Overheating&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water pump running dry and damaging itself in the process for a lack of lubrication and resistance&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T10:23:37.433" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T10:23:37.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21941" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:32:43.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The procedure has changed slightly from the end of November 2015 and half way December it was officially declared a recall by the DVSA and Vauxhall.&#xA;In addition to the desciption above, Vauxhall also:&#xA; 1. stick a piece of foam under the scuttle as a shield to avoid water going into the air inlet if the scuttle has been replaced badly.&#xA; 2. replace the resistor in all cases (except if it has already happened since Oct.15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amp test can also be done with a multimeter by removing fuse 4 in the fuse box under the bonnet on the left side and measuring the current between the two fuse clamps (there is a bit of extra current that can be measured by placing the fan switch to 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14351" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:32:43.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24666" CreationDate="2016-01-15T21:41:38.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was no &quot;best&quot; way to troubleshoot this issue that I could see. Ended up taking it to a mechanic and he plugged in a new wiper motor to see if that was it and turns out it was. Short of having spare parts lying around to plug and check, this isn't easy to troubleshoot. The fact that it changed based on the temperature did lead me, in the end, to believe it electrical (versus mechanical) in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T21:41:38.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:12:43.150" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the car model and the technology used, not all fluids I mention here do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is list of all that I know of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel (some cars use two typed of fuel, e.g., petrol and gas, so they have two fuel tanks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two-stroke&lt;/a&gt; oil (in some systems the oil is separated and only combined in the injection)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Automatic Transmission fluid&lt;/a&gt; (sometimes this is identical to gear oil, sometimes it is not.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission fluid in the torque converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hydraulic fluid in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch#Wet_vs._dry_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydraulic clutches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retarder_%28mechanical_engineering%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Retarder&lt;/a&gt; oil (usually only found in trucks, might use the same oil as the gear box)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coolant of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_air_conditioning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;air-conditioning system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brake fluid&lt;/a&gt; (for trucks this is pressurized air)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_exhaust_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diesel exhaust fluid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_steering#Hydraulic_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydraulic power steering&lt;/a&gt; liquid (usually some type of oil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hydraulic oil (or various gases like nitrogen) in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shock_absorber#Types_of_vehicle_shock_absorbers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dampers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windshield_washer_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;windshield washer fluid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_%28engine%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water injection&lt;/a&gt; (water is sprayed into incoming air to achieve cooling. This feature is rare, but is/was available in road-legal production cars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air in the tires :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air in the seats (used for massage function or seat adjustment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exhaust gas (is often used for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;turbochargers&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;battery acid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolyte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electrolyte&lt;/a&gt; in the batteries of electric cars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are they transported around? Well, some do not need to be transported, for the other pumps are used. Pretty-much straight forward; no black-magic is involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14353" LastEditorUserId="14353" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T09:10:15.607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T09:10:15.607" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17861" CreationDate="2016-01-15T23:24:30.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I use a leakdown tester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm buying a used car or motorcycle I use either a leakdown tester or simply compressed air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an air cannister with an air regulator, so I can control the flow of hte compressed air, that I can fill with compressed air, it's a finite quantity so I have to be sure to get it right the first time or a run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also bring a bump starter to get the motor at TDC easily and a car stethoscope to use as a listening device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compressed Air Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a leakdown tester you can use this method.  You will need to have the various couplings to screw the air hose into the sparkplug holes.  Remove the spark plugs, obviously.  Use the bump starter to get the piston to TDC on the bore you want to test.  Insert your air adapter into the spark plug hole and let air out of the canister using the regulator.  Be easy, you don't want the air pressure to force the piston down.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rings - Listen for air leaks into the crankcase.  You can listen at the oil filler cap, not so good, or insert the stethoscope into the oil dipstick tube, better.  If you hear a lot of air moving into the crankcase you can determine if the rings are good or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust Valves - Listen in the exhaust pipe.  Cat converters make this harder as they will absorb sound wave energy.  This isn't as effective on cars as it is on motorcycles.  You can also hold the stethoscope against the exhaust pipe after the more solid manifold and hear air escaping the combustion chamber from a bad valve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake Valves - Same as above but listen at the throttle body or carb.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leakdown Tester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can follow this generic test.&lt;/a&gt;  The procedure will vary slightly depending on the leakdown tester you own.  The description in the link is very good though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the tests a few times at your home to get your procedure nailed down.  You don't want to run out of compressed air or you have to go and recharge it and come back.  You only run out if you do the test and you have some valves open because your not at TDC.  I've never had it happen to me but I'm always worried about it when I'm doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe these tests coupled with the test you have described in your question above would sniff out the answer to your question of when you should walk away or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bump Starter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kFCd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kFCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compressed Air Canister&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lfaGq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lfaGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stethoscope&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY1aH.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY1aH.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T23:24:30.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24830" CreationDate="2016-01-16T00:02:33.143" Score="4" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be driving/living in a '00 Mercury Sable Sedan LS Premium 4D, which has a 24V electrical system.  100% of my equipment runs on 12V.  Does this car have a high-current (&gt;40A) 12V regulator in it to power my gear?  Or will I have to build/buy my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14355" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T11:01:07.677" Title="Does 2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium have 12V available?" Tags="|electrical|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24821" CreationDate="2016-01-16T00:26:20.447" Score="13" ViewCount="85524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the rear pair of tires of my 2006 Toyota Prius changed recently. Both were already bald and one was also leaky. The Tire Pressure Measure Sensors were pointing correctly that the leaky tire would lose pressure after about 5 days it was filled and the light would disappear after the tire was filled with the correct pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to change both rear tires since they actually needed to be replaced anyway, instead of fixing only the leaky tire. Just after the tires were replaced the tire shop owner asked me if the TPMS light was on all the time before I brought the car to him and I told him that this would happen only when the tire had a low pressure. He showed me using a device that apparently reads the TPMS sensors that both rear TPMS sensors had low battery and needed to be replaced for $50 each. I said that I would not replace since they were working fine all this time and hoped that this was only due to the change and the light would go out after a few days, but it keeps on all the times, sometimes even blinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that it is really a big coincidence that only the TPMS sensors on the new tires failed exactly on the day the tires were replaced. Is that normal the TPMS sensors fail upon tire change or I just happened to run into a very unlikely situation? Could the TPMS sensors had been replaced by nonfunctional ones by the tire shop to try to sell me new ones? He didn't allow me to see the car being serviced (even when I asked so), so that made me suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-23T21:53:50.757" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T02:01:18.457" Title="Is it normal both TPMS sensors fail just after changing tires?" Tags="|tires|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T01:55:11.520" Score="5" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to program my 2006 camry remote controls. After completing the programming, it will stay for a day and remotes doesn't work again. Any idea what's wrong? I have brand new batteries in remotes (so, thats not the issue). Toyota dealer said 79.99 for diagnosing and extra to fix or reprogram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14358" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T05:52:37.607" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:54:28.943" Title="2006 Camry Remote Control Programming doesn't save for more than a day" Tags="|toyota|camry|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T02:45:30.633" Score="6" ViewCount="19670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 VW Jetta GL, 2.0 engine, 5 speed, a/c.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My heater won't switch between defrost, floor heat or vents. It's stuck on the vents and I can't seem to find out why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have torn apart the interior panel and disconnected the cables and worked them manually (no help).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything gets hot and cold and the fan motor works great but it's all just stuck on blowing the air out of the vents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I switch it to defrost, the air from the vents slows down a little but not enough to defrost the front window.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Please help; it's taking forever to defrost my car in these cold mornings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14359" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:36:37.767" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T19:08:28.923" Title="Hot air only flows to vents, not to defrost?" Tags="|vw|hvac|heater|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T02:47:13.383" Score="6" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford Mondeo was leaking from the steering rack. So it was repaired by a steering specialist. After about 1,000 kms it steers smoothly to right but when turning towards the left it feels like there is no power assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:59:44.723" LastActivityDate="2024-03-23T04:07:40.963" Title="Power steering works normally to one side, but hard to the other" Tags="|ford|power-steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:21:12.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 20 gears, you would have to &quot;shorten&quot; each gear (ratio) to &quot;match&quot; the gear it came from and the gear it is going in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you go through &quot;smaller gears&quot; faster (more gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14362" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T04:21:12.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:26:48.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most sport-oriented (and heavy towing) vehicles, the point of an extra transmission gear is to keep the engine operating between it's torque peak and HP peak.  Thus, most models of vehicles that are base models will have a 5 speed manual (or 3 speed auto), while the sportier or heavy duty versions will have more gears to chose from.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many 6 speed transmissions have relatively similar 1st (perhaps a smidge lower) and 6th gear (perhaps a smidge higher) ratios in comparison to their 5 speed counterparts.  If you want to go through the effort, you can change the final drive ratio or tire size to go a little faster at a given engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi trucks have 10-18 gears because they need to be able to stay at just the perfect RPM to get max torque, and to be able to get up into the next gear (while the truck is slowing down) and still be close to perfect.  Semi transmissions are usually in fact 2 transmissions in a row, and very close attention is paid to final drive ratio so that both transmissions are in a 1:1 gear at 60mph and the engine at it's peak &lt;em&gt;fuel&lt;/em&gt; efficiency RPM.. Every time the power has to go through a set of gears, some is wasted as heat, and most transmissions in any gear except 4th all the power has to flow through TWO sets.. now multiplied by 2 transmissions, and you can easily lose 30% of your power (and thus fuel economy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, just because your engine isn't turning as fast does not guarantee it will be more fuel efficient.. typically, the more torque the engine needs to produce, the more fuel it will need per volume of air, reducing it's fuel efficiency, and higher gears will reduce your engine speed, but increase the load on it, and it won't accelerate as fast either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TANSTAAFL.. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14361" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T04:31:20.330" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T04:31:20.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24811" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:29:33.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I read your question correctly the sensors have not completely failed yet.  The device that read the sensors is showing that the batteries in the sensors are getting low. These batteries are small, the size of watch batteries. An inertial switch wakes up the sensors when the tire begins to roll. They are expected to last 6 to 10 years in normal use. So at 10 years old in your 2006 vehicle it is not surprising that they are low on battery power. They will likely continue to work for a limited time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires have to removed to change the sensors. Incurring more labor time. An offer to change them at the same time as the tires it would decrease overall cost. It has become common practice to check them before the tires are changed. Failure to do can result in angry customers when a TPMS sensor failure does occur shortly after tires are changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T05:29:33.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24811" CreationDate="2016-01-16T06:56:54.300" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an indirect TPMS.  These can be easily damaged by tire-mounting machines.  If one or both are damaged, you can get dash light staying on.  If they're not damaged, sometimes they just need a reset, especially if you don't change all tires at once.  Indirect sytems test revolutions, not pressure.  So it will sense a problem if 2 front tires have more wear than 2 new back tires.  Reset procedures vary, sometimes you need a scan tool.  You have be sure all 4 tires have the correct pressure before resetting for wear.  If you have a driver display interface, sometimes they can be reset from the menu.  Like Fred Wilson said, the batteries do wear out after 10 years, +/-.  But, like you, I also think that's way too coincidental.  I'd get a second opinion to make sure they're not damaged, check all pressures and see if they can be reset.  Indirect TPMS will be on valve stems or attached to a wheel's drop center.  Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for your questions in the comment section.  It wouldn't let me put this as just a comment so I had to edit my answer instead.  Let me ask a couple of questions.  Can you confirm if it's an indirect sytem for me?  When you say it flashes sometimes, how so?  Does it flash like 3 times and go solid again?  How often?  Does the ABS light come on?  When they showed you the device, how do you actually know the fault was low batteries?  What did it say or look like specifically?  Also, some models have a reset button under steering column where your knees are.  Look to see- do you have a reset button?  If so, don't touch it yet, just let me know.  Did you check the tire pressure on all 4 wheels yourself to make sure they're correct?   It's possible you can use an OBD2 code reader to erase faults but, if you could, I'd like to know what the fault codes are if you do use it.  It should connect to the instrument panel.  A light on your dash can be from some type of damage and will give a code.  Sometimes a relearn process needs to be done by the service technician after servicing your tires.  If it's not done or done incorrectly that could also cause a fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for additional comment questions: Is your reader wireless as well?  More details on how you did your reset- something like, held it in for 3 or 4 seconds and the tpms light blinked?  Is that about right?  How long did it blink for, how many times, how quickly?  The lowbat indicator you spoke of: that was from the serviceman's wireless tpms tool, right?  He came to the front to show you this AFTER the work was done?  Odd that he wouldn't scan each sensor FIRST to get info on them, including preexisting faults and to get their custom ID's so they know how the ECU recognizes them.  Can you give me a little more detail about when your tpms light blinks?  Only on startup? While driving anytime at all?  If so, what details can you give me about that?  If your OBD2 reader is wireless, you should be able to verify codes for low batteries or anything else yourself.  Have you?  Lastly, the ECU stores where each sensor is for each tire.  It may be worth a try swapping the back two tires, filling them to spec and redoing the reset (just in case they swapped those two wheels by accident when they were doing the work).  On a side note, those trouble codes you did mention- P0420 and P0116 together indicate you should check your coolant temp sonsor with a multimeter to see if it's bad or check your thermostat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updated edit: Most direct systems have some way of knowing what tire's sensor it's reading from.  Sometimes it's by unique SN's or ID's, sometimes it's specially placed antennae that detect directional rotation; but, the point is, the two back sensors could have been mixed up.  Which would be fine if a resynchronization is done (recalibrating the transponders).  What you did with the reset button was reset the tire pressure baseline.  I heard at some point that some models need a wireless tool to resync with Toyota models.  If you did the pressure reset correctly- Hold the button with the ignition on (not car on) until the tpms light blink 3 times, then leave ignition on for a few minutes before shutting it off- then it sounds like you did it right.  Since that didn't work, I would try swapping the two back tires to see if ID's were out of place.  Lastly, bring your car into a different tire service place to explain the situation.  Ask if they can try resynchronization first, since you suspect it may not have been done.  Then ask if they can get any trouble codes to verify low battery on BOTH sensors.  Maybe they'd be willing to look and make sure nothing was damaged like an antenna or seal...   Finally, if none of that works out and their codes match low batteries, 'I guess' that's it but would be very coincidental for even just one to suddenly have become just low enough at the time of servicing one tire, let alone both!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the other codes- the ECS can be tested with a multimeter.  An auto part store should have spec values for that or your manual.  If your thermostat is stuck open, you'll feel coolant running through the upper radiator hose upon initial startup (it shouldn't open until it warms up a bit so you shouldn't feel fluid running yet).  It'll also take longer than normal for your heat to start working and your engine to warm up.  If it's stuck closed, your engine will run hotter than normal and overheat.  Those two codes you got could also just be from letting your coolant level get too low at some point.  Clear them out and keep an eye on your engine temp.  If you get any warning signs then you can see if you get those codes again.  If so, one of them is probably defective.  Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mustangguy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T05:16:40.337" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T05:16:40.337" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2016-01-16T07:14:10.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When activated, ECON mode alters the Drive-by-Wire throttle system response curve in the range from about 10 percent to 60 percent of throttle pedal travel. With less gain, the throttle opening in this range increases more gradually to reduce a potentially excessive peak input for improved fuel efficiency. ECON mode also alters the operation of the cruise control system and the air conditioning system, allowing for slightly increased variances with the set speed and cabin temperature in order to further conserve fuel.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netcarshow.com/honda/2016-hr-v/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.netcarshow.com/honda/2016-hr-v/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14363" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T07:14:10.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24810" CreationDate="2016-01-16T07:27:19.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only find 24volt vehicle systems in military vehicles/emergency vehicles. I don't think Mercury would release a vehicle that required 100% different electronics amongst it's line of vehicle. Whats the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24volt vehicles are that way to power on board equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.E. Military Communications vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14362" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T07:27:19.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2016-01-16T07:34:22.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AS mentioned. It is a shared ground (all exposed metal is a ground. So connect to any none painted metal. Though they normally have a bolt or something to attach to near the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14362" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T07:34:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24831" CreationDate="2016-01-16T10:28:07.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what does Auxiliary input status (PID 1E) and Auxiliary input / output supported (PID 65) OBD2 PID mean. Do they tell me whether my car is in the Aux mode (while I am listening to the radio)?&#xA;Case 1: I am sitting in the car, listening to the radio. Key is in the Aux mode. Will I get any readings on hitting these PIDs?&#xA;Case 2: I am driving my car, listening to the radio. Will I get any readings now? Key is not in Aux mode now obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T11:14:58.927" Title="Auxiliary input status and Auxiliary input / output supported OBD2 PID" Tags="|obd-ii|audio|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24810" CreationDate="2016-01-16T11:01:07.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle is equipped with the Duratec 24 valve double over head cam 3.0 liter V6. In the descriptions where you see 24V, that stand for 24 valve. The car has a 12 volt electrical system and not a 24 volt one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mercury Sable has 2 different engine options. One is a 3.0 liter V6 overhead valve (OHV) 12 valve and the other is 3.0 liter V6 double overhead cam (DOHC) 24 valve. The 24V is there to distinguish the engines because they are both 3.0 liter V6.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T11:01:07.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24829" CreationDate="2016-01-16T11:14:58.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Wikipedia page on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBD-II PIDs&lt;/a&gt;. PID 1E designates if the Power Transfer Output (PTO) is active or not. PID 65 is the sister PID to 1E designating if 1E means anything, supported or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A PTO is a device that attaches to an engine/transmission that does other work besides driving the vehicle forward. For example a dump truck commonly had a hydraulic pump that engages with a lever on the transmission to drive the hydraulic ram for the dump bed. Another example is that bucket trucks sometimes called cherry pickers will have a hydraulic pump in the belts of the engine to operate the bucket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T11:14:58.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:37:16.677" Score="5" ViewCount="1686" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term bad earth problem has been causing iDrive to crash and reboot for years. Bad earth seems to drain the life of the battery over a period of a few years. On my 3rd battery now. Never been able to find the bad earth. I am told there are some 140 earth points and it could be any of them?? A new CCC at £3300 never solved the problem, so reluctant to spend more. Living with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Problem&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is cranking but no firing. This has worsened over the last year to the point now where no amount of cranking works. It used the fire when I turned the key right back and then to ignition point a second time. Fuel prime twice seemed to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am told by a mechanic that it could be the fuel pump. Apparently there are three. One in the Tank, one in the engine bay, and he feels it could the one between them under the passenger seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question. I want to check the Fuel Pump relays. How many are there? Where are they? Enormous gratitude to anyone who knows the answers. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14368" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T17:19:08.350" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:30:10.700" Title="BMW E60 (525d M Sport 2005 UK). Cranking but not starting. Fuel Pump/Relay issue?" Tags="|starting|fuel-system|bmw|relay|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:49:51.720" Score="8" ViewCount="2307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fitting a new soundsystem in my bmw (e46).&#xA;There's an amplifier in the boot (mb quart onx 4.80/500).&#xA;A line out converter converts the high level inputs from the OEM headunit, into the low level inputs required for the amp.&#xA;And a bluetooth module (GROM BT-3) which acts as a CD changer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&#xA;Bluetooth -&gt; Headunit -&gt; Line Out Converter -&gt; Amplifier -&gt; Speakers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is great when I am using the CD player in the Headunit.&#xA;No interference what so ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I use my bluetooth module for playing music, there is so much interference.&#xA;A constant static sound which increases in volume as I turn up the volume on the headunit, with/without the engine being on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's clear my bluetooth module is causing the interference, but how can I get rid it and still use bluetooth?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;I had another OEM bluetooth module(hands free) installed in the car, that was also giving me similar interference and I have removed that which helped a bit.&#xA;I have also tried moving the module from the boot, into the front of the car away from the amp. It made no difference.&#xA;Using a different device connected to the bluetooth makes no difference either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14369" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T11:00:00.863" Title="Bluetooth module causing interference with aftermarket setup" Tags="|noise|bmw|audio|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24851" CreationDate="2016-01-16T14:51:56.497" Score="7" ViewCount="3610" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the hotrodding world there is a common term I hear called &quot;Z&quot; frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it mean?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you carry out this modification?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is doing so restricted to certain vehicles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:33:06.640" Title="What is a &quot;Z&quot; frame?" Tags="|frame|design|custom|hotrod|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24802" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:10:05.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get less cooling.  If the radiator is only 1/2 way full you have water in contact with cooling fins for 1/2 the time and 1/2 the cooling. The fluid is pumped from bottom so it will continue to flow.  Eventually the water is hot enough that the engine turns it to steam.  Once you empty the radiator then zero cooling as nothing is pumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T15:10:05.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:11:44.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 said, any bare metal should provide a good ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common places to attach leads in your situation would be a lifting eye (if your engine has them), the body of the alternator is normally easy to attach to, or any metal part of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the metal you attach the lead to is capable of carrying enough current to start the car. This normally just requires some common sense, for example a small metal bracket attached with one tiny bolt could become very hot and al&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T15:11:44.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24841" CreationDate="2016-01-16T16:15:51.330" Score="5" ViewCount="3832" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24767/what-will-upgrading-the-camshaft-do-to-my-bbc-454&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; the OP references the block casting number his 454 GM motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the block casting number relevant information when talking about an upgrade to an American V-8 engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true for other motors made by Renault or Honda?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:27:11.623" Title="Why do casting numbers on engine blocks matter?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24849" CreationDate="2016-01-16T16:38:29.310" Score="9" ViewCount="15006" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Chopped &amp;amp; Channeled&quot; is another term I have come across in the hotrodding scene. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it mean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of applying these modifications to your vehicle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any negative effects?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must a vehicle have certain requirements to conduct this modification?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:14:42.043" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T01:26:47.527" Title="What does &quot;Chopped &amp; Channeled&quot; mean?" Tags="|body|custom|hotrod|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2016-01-16T16:46:10.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to share my fuel consumption story....I have a second hand Suzuki Ignis 2002 1300cc. When I first got it in 90.000km the gasoline consumption was 7.2lit/100km.&#xA;Suddenly the consumption raised to 11lit/100km. Also I had a lot of emissions. No strange lamps on my dashboard... Everything normal except the consumption and emissions.&#xA;My mechanic, serviced the car, cleaned the injectors cleaned the EGR and pipes, checked the valve gaps. Nothing. &#xA;Then exchanged and tested with used: the spark plugs, both lamda sensors,  ignition coils. Nothing, emissions continued.&#xA;So the final suggestion with no guarantee to success was to change the catalyst.The exhaust guy found no trace of catalyst in the exhaust. Debris has filled the silencer. So a new catalyst was installed and the silencer was cleaned. Car runs quieter, Gas consumption lowered to 6.3lt/100km SUCCESS...  No more emissions, no more high fuel consumption.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14371" LastEditorUserId="14371" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T16:54:49.850" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T16:54:49.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25317" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:21:29.963" Score="6" ViewCount="77522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem starting my car after not driving it for two weeks. After charging the battery with a CTEK trickle charger via the cigarette lighter socket, the car started fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my car battery tested at a couple of garages and they said the battery was fine, it was just undercharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I charged it again with the trickle charger and then once the charger had indicated that the battery was full, I disconnected the charger and then measured the battery voltage using a multimeter. This showed a voltage of 12.23v, which &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm&quot;&gt;according to this site&lt;/a&gt; means it is only 50% charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried charging it again, however it won't go above the indicated 50%. Does this indicate that the battery needs replacing? It is currently five years old, however I am wondering why the tests came back fine unless there's a fault in my method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T18:38:09.147" Title="Car battery won't charge above 50%" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24837" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:27:11.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of main purposes for knowing the casting number on a block. First, it is so you can know what has been put &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the engine and what an engine is made out of before you start working on it or buy an engine to start working on it. You know the basis for the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, you see a Big Block Chevy (BBC) engine for sale. You go to take a look at it prior to purchase and what do you see but a short deck BBC GenIV engine. You don't know if it's a 396, 400, 402, 427, or a 454. How can you figure out what it is? They all look the same from the outside, so you look at the casting numbers. How do you know if the BBC you are looking at is a 2-bolt main or a 4-bolt main block? Do you know if it was made in 1968 or in 1990? These things matter when looking to purchase an engine so you know what you are getting into with it. You may ask why these things are important, but if you are serious about building an engine, you'd want to know these answers and the only way to tell is by the casting numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the important details about all of this is knowing the &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; of the block. Some blocks are made better than others. Some blocks have known casting defects or the metal used to make the block is better than others. Some blocks have Siamese bores (which means the cylinders actually come into contact with each other from the sides inside the water jackets which make them a lot stronger than blocks without). Some blocks have thicker cylinder walls than others. You won't be able to tell any of these things by looking at them, so you have a casting number which can tell you the particulars instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason you'd want to know the casting numbers is if you are restoring a car. If you really want to get to the nitty-gritty of it, and want a numbers matching car, you'll need to know what engine block was in the car in the first place and then you go on the hunt. Usually finding a block which is exactly what you need to do your restoration is very hard. It can also be quite expensive. But if you're going to do it right, you need the casting number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:27:11.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24832" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:30:10.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to dig out some E60, diesel-specific information if I have time, but consider the following as possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;clogged fuel filter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;faulty fuel pump relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;weak fuel pump&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:30:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24838" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:49:47.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is where part of the floor of the body shell is cut (chopped) and the slid over the chassis. So normally the whole body would sit on top of the chassis, it now fits around so the sides over lap the chassis rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor is then modified to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose is to make the vehicle lower without affecting ground clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T17:49:47.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33257" CreationDate="2016-01-16T18:01:41.350" Score="13" ViewCount="19333" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple of situations with diesels.  One in particular where I swapped a Ford F350 Powerstroke 7.8 transmission.  When I was done.  The truck wouldn't start.  It was a painful troubleshooting situation for me because of my diesel ignorance.  It turned out that the fuel lines needed to be bled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It made no real sense to me but it was the solution.  The fact that air was in the system at all didn't make sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do diesel fuel lines have to be bled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a generic diesel fuel system image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dP36g.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dP36g.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:38:16.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:44:54.337" Title="Why do diesel fuel lines have to be bled?" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24844" CreationDate="2016-01-16T18:15:19.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have changed major parts of the engine/transmission, you have almost certainly introduced air into the fuel lines or injection system. This will prevent fuel getting to the engine as the fuel injection becomes &quot;airbound&quot; - ie it can no longer pump the diesel through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleeding the fuel lines is as simple as starting from the tank and using the fuel pump (either electric or mechanical) be sure you have pumped fuel all the way through the lines to the injectors so there is no air left in the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some systems have a series of bleed valves along the way, some only have one, but you need to allow air to escape each one until diesel starts to escape, then you close the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T18:15:19.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25316" CreationDate="2016-01-16T18:43:29.300" Score="11" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;When getting my battery tested for an issue in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24840/3622&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, the mechanic noted that when my Ford's &quot;quickclear&quot; windscreen heating element was activated and the engine running, the voltage coming from the battery dips, whereas this doesn't happen with other accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage dipped and continued to decrease. You could see the headlights dim, and if the blowers were on the speed decreased as you could tell by the sound. Using another accessory, for example the rear window heater only caused a momentary dip, and then the voltage stabilised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal behaviour for the heated windscreen? The mechanic was convinced this was abnormal and should be looked at. Also, if there is a fault with the windscreen, is this likely to cause any battery drain when the car is off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T10:14:29.377" Title="Does Ford's heated windscreen/windshield normally drain excessive current?" Tags="|ford|heat|windshield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2016-01-16T19:04:56.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that will make a big difference on an economy car motor (ie, more than a placebo effect) in terms of acceleration is forced induction. Having been down this road myself, I feel I should warn you now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once you start doing serious modifications, you're going to be maintaining your car a lot more. Get a spare car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;best route is probably to get a programmable ECU like a megasquirt and tune the car with bigger injectors in preparation for turbocharging. You can actually get quite a bit of power from timing advance in some mazda engines (my experience is in the BP engines), since they're generally tuned for 87 octane rather than 93 and you're not going to want any 87 octane left in your tank once you add the turbo. Then organize the turbo bits and install everything in a weekend and then tune it, set up the boost control, etc. You need a wideband, you need an EGT probe at the turbine inlet, etc. Don't cut corners while doing the tuning. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you should probably not go this route. This stuff takes time to learn and it's very expensive if you do it wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No matter how cheaply you do this, it will cost several thousand&#xA;dollars. Assuming nothing goes wrong. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to get on a forum dedicated to your car and find out if it&#xA;is actually worth modifying. Every make and model of car has weird&#xA;quirks that will affect your decisions. You may find there is no real&#xA;performance aftermarket for your car. You may find that adding boost&#xA;to your car blows head gaskets or breaks oil pumps or bends rods. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for suspension and braking mods, there are tons of traps here. There are a huge variety of cheap coilovers and suspension packages available that are garbage (they'll work great for about 3 months and then fail). You're best off doing lots of research to find out what the actual competitive drivers use (assuming your car is raced much, which it might not be). Be prepared to spend over 2k for a decent coilover package, be very suspicious of anything under 1k USD. Barring that, your best bet is probably to just get better shocks and tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:23:12.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:23:12.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T19:08:38.660" Score="7" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel sending unit replaced.  Since then  it has gas smell in car. It has been redone by mechanics four times now but still has a gas smell when the gas level is in the first quarter of the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cap is on tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the gas smell in my car continue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14377" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T19:20:20.457" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T12:58:14.963" Title="2009 Hyundai Sante Fe - gas smell in cabin after replacing fuel sending unit. has been repaired 4x's now" Tags="|fuel-system|hyundai|gasoline|smell|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24838" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:01:34.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chopped and channeled refers to two different things, but are usually done together to create a specific look usually utilized by hot rodders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;em&gt;decent&lt;/em&gt; attempt at a Photoshop &quot;chop job&quot; (pun intended), but it is a pretty good representation of a before and after of what it would look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouPwq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouPwq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image you can see the top is lowered. The basic events would occur something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is taken out of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All pillars are marked to take the same amount out of the them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A chop saw (or sawzall or grinding tool of some sort) is used to cut the pieces out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top is re-used, but may need to be modified, depending on how the pillars will go back together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pillars are reformed due to a difference in angles/slopes to allow the new transition of the roof to look natural&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once all metal work is fabricated, everything is welded together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body work is done to make finish correct to include paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass is cut to fit the new height and re-installed in the vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Channeling a vehicle  where you cut out the floor pan of a vehicle and allow the frame to come up farther into the vehicle. The main purpose of a channel job is to allow the body of the car to sit closer to the ground without suspension travel. This process was done before when there wasn't as many options or manufacturing techniques available to modify the suspension in vehicles. It is a lot less common today to see this kind of work done. It is very involved and requires a lot of welding skills to accomplish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason someone would do either of these processes to a car is strictly for aesthetics. It's just the way the person wants a vehicle to look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative effects for chopping the top are head room for the driver and passengers. To compensate, the seats can be lowered or lower seats added to accommodate. Doing this, though, makes it harder to see around the vehicle (line of sight). In all things there is a trade off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for channeling a vehicle, there needs to be extra attention give to clearance of the wheels to wheel wells as well as how far the front wheels turn. If not, rubbing will occur. In most of the older cars where this is applied, a stiffer suspension will probably be needed so as not to allow for the &quot;boat&quot; motion to occur. Too much bounce/jounce can cause tire contact with the body as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically there is no vehicle requirements to perform a chop job. It can be done to any vehicle as long as the person doing it has the skills to make it happen. Does this mean it would look good on any vehicle ... the simple truth is probably not, but that is up to personal interpretation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you'd need to channel a vehicle is a frame separate from the body. Many cars today are unibody setups (the car body acts as the frame), so don't have a typical frame. In these cases, though, there usually are many options to lower the vehicle to the ride height which the owner would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case of Chopping or Channeling, these are &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; applied to vehicles of American origin from the 1930's, 40's, &amp;amp; 50's. There is usually a specific look the owner is going for to recreate how it &quot;&lt;em&gt;used to be done&lt;/em&gt;&quot; back in the old days. This doesn't mean the work isn't done to other cars outside that realm, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:01:34.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24744" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:17:54.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TireRack.com&lt;/a&gt;, your standard tire size is 195/65/15. This tire has a rotation per mile (RPM) of 832. The Michelin tire has an RPM of 836. This is only a difference of ~.5%, which is not a big deal. &lt;strong&gt;Using the two different tire sizes shouldn't cause you any issues.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major concerns here is to keep the same size tires on the same axle (front or back). If you put different size tires on each side, it could cause instability issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concern I had with anti-lock brakes (ABS) is if there is too much of a difference in sizes, it will drive the ABS and/or stability program crazy, shutting both down and making that function useless to you. This would, of course, cause a safety concern for you which I assume you were trying to avoid in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:17:54.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24834" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:33:06.640" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;Z&amp;quot; frame refers to a modification done to what would otherwise be a straight framed vehicle. Here is an image of two frames (done via 3D printing) of what the difference would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/946GM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/946GM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the idea is to take the straight frame (top) and make the zig-zag in it. This in effect, lowers the body closer to the road without having to drastically alter the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a before and after using a model to show what it would look like with the body on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvOuN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvOuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the differences in the front end and where the rear axle sits with regards to the tires on the back end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just like in the Chopped and Channeled question, you have to have a frame before you can do this modification. If a car has a unibody, it wouldn't work for it. You'll usually see this type of modification on vehicles with straight frames where the owner would want others to &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; that the frame was &amp;quot;Z'd&amp;quot;. It is used to promote a certain stance and look for the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:33:06.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24856" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:41:08.997" Score="11" ViewCount="41427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear the term thrown around a lot about the A pillar or B pillar ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are these and of what importance are they? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other pillars in a vehicle? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do all vehicles have all the pillars?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T07:14:27.407" Title="What is an &quot;A pillar&quot;?" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T20:54:27.527" Score="8" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Honda Civic DX sedan. Recently my hand brakes stop staying up. Mechanic said the cables are good but I need some sort of clip or spring but he isn't sure because he is unfamiliar with this vehicle. Can someone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14379" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T01:00:27.247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T07:06:35.967" Title="Help me with my hand Brakes" Tags="|honda|civic|handbrake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24852" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:18:07.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pillars are what connect the sides of the car to the roof. Convertibles are the only cars I'm aware of that don't have what could be considered pillars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pillars separated into driver side and passenger side. The very forward pillar is A, the next one is B and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example driver side A pillar is the forward most pillar on the driver side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic covers are commonly used to route wires and other things. If the car has a sun roof the A pillars have drains in them. The B pillars commonly contain the front occupants seat belts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T21:23:40.400" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T21:23:40.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24863" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:23:40.700" Score="6" ViewCount="3027" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, Laramie SLT, automatic transmission, 5.9l magnum engine, and crew cab (222k mi). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lueoj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lueoj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who could put a cold air intake on it, with a new hood. But I have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be a substantial enough of a horsepower boost to be noticeable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the truck perform in the rain as well as before?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to put this kind of performance part on an old engine with high mileage? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be sure it's worth it before buying any parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:19:27.240" Title="How much horsepower to expect from a cold air intake in Dodge Ram" Tags="|dodge|performance|truck|air-intake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24852" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:25:48.257" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pillars are vertical supports on a vehicle. They are located around all the glass on an automobile. They are important for holding glass in place and adding structural integrity to a vehicle, primarily the roof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;A&quot; pillar holds the windshield in place. Take a look at this representation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;B&quot; pillars start at the end of the first door. They usually offer substantial structural support for a vehicle's roof. Most of the time they are bound to the body frame and wrap all the way into the roof. Depending on the design, there may be multiple pieces attached to increase the integrity of the roof. They are also responsible for where a door's latch connects to the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;C&quot; pillars hold a vehicle's rear window in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFItn.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFItn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of vehicle showing location of A, B &amp;amp; C pillars&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all vehicles share the same number of pillars. For instance, early Hardtop coupes lack a B pillar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a Pontiac from the '60s. As you can see, it only has an A and C pillar in its design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzLjO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzLjO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of 1960s Pontiac&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limos can have upwards of 5 pillars or more depending on their length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of how one might be constructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FC7fR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photographs of limousines being built[3]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Convertibles use pillars but to my knowledge they are not called &quot;A&quot; pillars (unless a specific modification was done to a vehicle, ie. Ford Sport Coupes inspired by the Ford Roadster, hence &quot;Coupester&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of Mustang convertible pillars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMgJx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMgJx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of pillars&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T20:14:20.113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T20:14:20.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24852" CreationDate="2016-01-16T21:26:39.227" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What is a Pillar&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main types of pillar when referring to the design of a car - A, B and C. The A pillars on your car hold either side of the front windscreen in place. They are the ones you see as you look straight at the car from the front. B pillars start where the driver and passenger-side windows end as you look backward along the length of the car. C pillars hold the sides of your car's rear window in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; Some cars also have a D pillar, such as estate cars for example. D pillars hold the sides of the rear window of the car in place and can also sometimes serve as a housing for the rear lights like indicators, brakes and alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why They Are Important&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without pillars, the glass on its own would not be able to support the weight of the cars roof. They provide a firm structure to the top of the car so that you can roll your car windows down, or even carry weight (usually up to around 100kg on most modern cars) on the roof using something like a roof rack. They provide a good base for the windows for the car to be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, another point is that if you have a center console on the roof of your car, such as a light or electric sunroof controls then all of the cables for these interior luxuries must be routes through one of the pillars (normally the A pillar, but again this depends on the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do All Cars Have Pillars?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. For any car that doesn't have a roof, there is no need to have pillars to support anything. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=katerim+car&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=955&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi31Iivoq_KAhUIzRQKHTChDyIQ_AUIBigB&amp;amp;dpr=1#imgrc=h7ZolFLJKXaVnM%3A&quot;&gt;Caterham&lt;/a&gt; (small sports car without a roof) is a good example of this as many of them do not come with a roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T21:26:39.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24858" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multi-cylinder vehicles with multiple carbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor synchronization on multi-carbureted motorcycles is an essential component to a maintenance profile and the tune up process.  Balancing carburetors effects engine balance and creating a scenario where there is even distribution of power per cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late 70's through Early 2000 Multi-Carbed Motorcycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the factory, your fuel screw is blocked by a small aluminum plug.  You cannot adjust air/fuel ratio (AFR) on this bike until you drill out the plugs.  They are very easy to remove.  They are dangerous to drill out.  If you penetrate through the aluminum plug you can push your drill down to the brass air adjustment screw and turn it all the way in.  There is a needle at the end that will enter the air galley and get stuck.  When you try and turn it out the pin snaps off into the air galley which provides proper AFR at idle and just off idle, since it's an air galley, it will be rich on that cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AFR and carburetor synchronization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do interact and have some effect on one another.  That being said,  if you give one cylinder a super lean condition and the other a super rich one you can effect the synchronization.  As well, the inverse is not true.  If you have one carb set open too much and the other one closed off, their AFR won't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synchronizing - Tools and Tricks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand some of the other respondents suggested using the water method with tubing going up a long piece of cardboard.  That's not really for me.  I've done back in the day but, I like to work on bikes and I worked for a real stiff chap that cut his teeth at HRC in the Pan-Pacific side car series with a works team.  No junk tools, do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tool like this is one that I recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA65Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA65Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The big reason I recommend these is that they come with the brass or SS fittings that you need to screw into your manifold to take the readings.  They look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gc3Tz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gc3Tz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide, the water tub/tube fancy trick or the vacuum gauge method, you will need those fittings.  You can google &quot;motorcycle carburetor synchronize brass fitting&quot; and you will be able to procure them from someone somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;when you get the right kit you get all the different sizes of fittings, if you don't, you need to make sure you order the ones with the correct thread pitch, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of location of manifold plug screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5jNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5jNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will insert those brass fittings into your manifold after removing the plug screw.  The plug screw, if not removed for some time, will have fused to the aluminum because the screw has some iron in it.  The oxidation melds together, I forgot the name of the process.  IF the screw is stuck, hit with a torch for a bit and squirt water right on the screw.  The expansion and contraction should free it up enough to break it (the bond) so you can get it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On almost all four cylinder MC's you balance the bank in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance carb/cylinder 1 and 2 together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance carb/cylinder 3 and 4 together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balance pair 1 and 2 to the pair of 3 and 4&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three screws to balance the 4 carburetors together.  One for each 'pair' of balancing you do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have everything hooked up, start the bike and let it warm up.  Make sure you are off choke and set the idle at about 1500 RPM initially with the idle screw.  This will keep you from stalling while you screw up the balance and bring it back in.  When the bike is out of balance the idle will increase.  The bank that is off will drive the idle up.  It may sound smooth.  Don't fall for it, it's a ruse.  They are out of balance when the tool says they are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have them synched, set the idle to factory spec, probably between 900 and 1100 RPM depending on the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location of the balancing screws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fliSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fliSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reminder&lt;/strong&gt; - make sure your fuel screws, float levels and AFR are good on all of them first.  In a shop, synchronization is always done after everything else is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve adjustment  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set Floats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set air screws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust jet needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balance carburetors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24859" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" Score="0" Body="Carburetor synchronization on multi-carbureted motorcycles and cars is an essential component to a maintenance profile and the tune up process.  Balancing carburetors effects engine balance and creating a scenario where there is even distribution of power per cylinder." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:26:56.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24862" CreationDate="2016-01-16T22:59:02.577" Score="10" ViewCount="8169" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a few cars for a track day car that I can abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the vehicles I'm considering is an older &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_RX-7#First_Generation_.28SA22C.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mazda RX7&lt;/a&gt;.  The primary reasons being that it has a rotary engine as well as the curb weight, which is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of the rotary because if I over rev it by downshifting to early that the engine doesn't have any poppet valves to destroy.  The performance profile, other than weight, isn't a giant concern but I want to do something to it to get a little more umph out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are common modifications done to the Wankel engine to improve HP?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do common engine improvements to a rotary engine such as port timing modifications provide the same benefits to a Wankel engine as a normal piston engine?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wankel Engine Basic Operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Br952.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Br952.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T23:16:44.223" Title="How do I get more power out of a rotary engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|wankel-engine|modification|rx7|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24846" CreationDate="2016-01-16T23:08:46.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There won't be a fault with the windscreen.  If it was drawing excessive current, then the fuse for this circuit would blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could possibly be a fault with you alternator, in that it is not able to provide the current being drawn by the windscreen, this will then cause the battery to discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the idle speed control valve is not keeping the engine revs at the normal idle speed.  This may cause the alternator to not provide the required current for the windscreen heater, so once again, the battery will discharge.  Do the engine revs drop when you turn on the windscreen heater? (You can ignore this last section if your car is a diesel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the voltage increase again if you rev the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T09:58:26.283" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T09:58:26.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24860" CreationDate="2016-01-16T23:16:44.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rotary engine is still a pump so opening it up helps it rev higher and make more power. Opening the inlet and exhaust ports is a big way to make more power at the engine.  You still need the rest of the path to open up as well so opening the exhaust and intake path helps.  Earlier Mazda RX-7s had anti pollution gear that killed power.  There was a reburn chamber that spoiled the scavenging of the exhaust gases as it collected gases and burned off unburned hydrocarbons. I took that off and added straight pipe and made 5% more power. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just be careful as you do this the engine will just make more power as the RPM increase. You have to watch out for running gear like the RPM sending gear (on the '78s anyway) was plastic and wouldn't take the extra revs.  There was a brass after market replacement though. &#xA;Big the key is to open up the engine to let it rev higher to make more power. There is a point where your apex seals will wear faster but for race work that's not bad. &#xA;I had a '78 RX-7 that I loved and made these mods to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T23:16:44.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2016-01-17T00:56:12.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would there be a substantial enough of a horsepower boost to be noticeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; you could see from such a modification is 15hp. This would not be enough for the seat dyno to register, unless there are plenty of hemorrhoids to detect it. More then likely you'd see a measly 5-10hp, and then only at the higher RPM levels would this be apparent. You would only be able to see the increase via a chassis dyno. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the truck perform in the rain as well as before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the modifications made (I'm unsure of the CAI you are planning to use) your truck won't have any issues using the CAI, nor will it have any issues in the rain. Even CAI's that utilize an exterior intake (as you've suggested in your question) usually have a drain the bottom which allows for any water which may enter to leave as well. You'd have to drown the entire truck to have an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it safe to put this kind of performance part on an old engine with high mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't hurt anything ... but really, it won't help anything either. The engine will only use the air it can take in ... no more, no less. Allowing it to breath a little better won't hurt anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting these modifications for free, then no big deal ... put them on. If, on the other hand it might cost you money, I'd suggest you pass. It's not a good return on investment for your truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T00:56:12.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1236" CreationDate="2016-01-17T01:29:26.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like a wire is possibly burning ... The plastic shielding may be frying creating the smoke ... Also may account for the voltage warning. Check your alternator wires and follow your exhaust... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a mustang do the same thing. My alternator wires were melting from exhaust pipe heat. If it is the case please redo the wire just below the melting point with the same color or if not same color use the red electrical tape to indicate a energy wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T01:29:26.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14530" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:05:42.793" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bodywork is something that cannot be rushed. While others are suggesting chemicals that may be suited for this application, it is not necessarily going to be a solution to your problem. The &lt;strong&gt;most&lt;/strong&gt; important part of bodywork/painting is preparation and cleanliness. I cannot stress this enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applying bondo, fibreglass, spot putty, primer, paint, clearcoats, etc, temperature is key. So is the mixture of the product(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A paint booth must be a minimum of 55 degrees for any automotive paint&#xA;  with a catalyst to dry. All automotive paint companies base the time&#xA;  it takes to flash, cure, recoat, etc. on 70 degrees and 50% RH&#xA;  (relative humidity). There is a standard basic rule in the automotive&#xA;  industry that for every 15 degrees above 70 degrees, the coating will&#xA;  cure about twice as fast. This rule works the other way around as&#xA;  well; for every 15 degrees below 70 degrees, the coating will take&#xA;  about twice as long to cure. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gfsboothblog.com/2012/04/20/paint-booth-temperature-settings-a-practical-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While flex agents could certainly aid in this application, it looks like the paint did not properly adhere or moisture is being trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the correct products, there is still much work to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with removing those flakes. I would suggest sanding with coarse grit, (40-80), in this case because you don't know the extent of the damage yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijP5U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijP5U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to air tools, great, if not, use a sanding block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bX0ba.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bX0ba.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to to sand it with something finer if you wish. Before adding your filler, you must clean the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this with a product called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=PRFPF603-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Final Wipe&lt;/a&gt;, or equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Removes wax, grease, oil, silicone, tar, road film and other solvent based contaminants. Use on bare metal, existing finishes and primer surfaces as a final wipe before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tZOR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tZOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally you can lightly go over the surface with a Tack Cloth. It will catch any particles that you may have missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiXcp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiXcp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinse and repeat throughout your remaining stages. If you take all of this into consideration, you will prepare yourself for a successful job. It doesn't take long to spray a vehicle, or part, etc, but the time to get there is certainly worth putting in.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T02:05:42.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24679" CreationDate="2016-01-17T07:35:10.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real answer is- it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extra couple of quarts? Probably no real effect. If you put in enough that the crank is sloshing the oil around, you probably will get a foam of oil all around the underside of the pistons, but besides robbing a bunch of horsepower due to windage and maybe causing some oil burning issues (at a certain point your oil rings will just get overpowered because there's so much oil on the walls of each cylinder, plus your PCV system unless you have a catch can, is going to start sucking oil into the engine), it isn't going to kill your engine or anything unless you start getting detonation from all the ingested oil. By the way, I don't believe it will turn EVERYTHING into foam and cause oil starvation- there is still going to be at least a gallon of completely liquid oil under the foam that your oil pump can suck up and use for lubrication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you'll put in enough oil that it might hydrolock the pistons from the underside or at least prevent them from moving faster than a very slow maximum speed as it pushes the oil up into passages between the head and the valve cover. Your car might not run, but I don't think it would explode or bend a rod or anything unless you have an incredibly powerful starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truth is that too much oil isn't really a big deal unless it's a really silly amount. Many turbo cars come from the factory with oil sprayers under each piston and those things dump a whole bunch of oil constantly all over the undersides of each piston. It causes some oil burning compared to not running them, but it's not a huge difference, and not even a long term reliability issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is that it will vary from car to car since every car's oiling system is slightly different. Some cars have basically sealed off the sump from the crank area with baffles and trays while other cars basically just dangle the crank over the top of the oil. Yet other cars run dry sump systems which store the oil externally and also separate the oil and air. This is a much more complicated (and rare, in production vehicles) approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T07:35:10.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24870" CreationDate="2016-01-17T09:47:23.840" Score="4" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is injector flow rate = Mass fuel flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so then AFR = MAF/Injector flow rate. Can someone please confirm this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T11:51:43.663" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T11:51:43.663" Title="Calculating AFR using injector flow rate and mass air flow" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2016-01-17T10:14:00.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked at automotive dealerships for over 30 years. Bearings are made of soft metals such as copper and babbitt so that they will not damage crank journals if contact is made. In earlier days, having coolant in the oil was an inconvenience.  You may want to run a few quarts of ATF through an engine, then change the oil twice, in quick succession.  Over the last 20 years, many engines have bearing materials that will not tolerate coolant.  A chemical reaction can occur which will destroy the bearings.  Before you do a lot of work on a car with, for instance, blown head gaskets, find out if your bearings are going to be adversely affected.  It may be more prudent to simply replace the entire engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14386" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T10:14:00.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24868" CreationDate="2016-01-17T10:42:16.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, provided the following conditions are met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the units for the values MAF and fuel flow values are consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you're using OBD-II parameters the values are usually in different units. In fact, fuel flow is usually volumetric (L/hr) and not mass flow like the reading from the MAF so you would have to correct for that&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;by injector flow rate, I'm assuming you're looking at all injectors combined, not just one injector.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the MAF sensor reading is an accurate representation of the actual air flow. Ageing sensors can give false readings. This comment also applies to fuel flow (think clogged injectors, stuck open injectors, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T10:42:16.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T11:57:25.790" Score="5" ViewCount="7234" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Front End Work Requires an Alignment Afterwards and in what case can you take measure to avoid having to do an alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the Haynes manual says you can mark the strut mount and the place where it mounts to avoid having to do an alightment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that there was a way to avoid doing an alignment when replacing tie rod ends by counting the number of exposed threads and making sure the same number of threads are exposed on the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so on....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T12:23:38.333" Title="What Front End Work Requires an Alignment Afterwards" Tags="|suspension|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24898" CreationDate="2016-01-17T11:57:34.833" Score="17" ViewCount="87010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once met an OBD-II expert while traveling and asked him if motorcycles (especially the fuel-injected ones) employ a similar protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said that the use of such a protocol is not as widespread but when they use it, it isn't OBD-II. I cannot remember the name he mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do motorcycles use as a communication protocol? Why is it not so widely used? How is it different from OBD-II?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T22:35:34.813" Title="What is the motorcycle equivalent of OBD-II?" Tags="|motorcycle|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T12:21:24.490" Score="2" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I calculate wheel alignment from OBD parameters. Car is Hyundai i10, and it doesn't give any Steering Alignment/ Steering Position data.&#xA;The only method to check the alignment is to let the car move as you keep your hands off the steering wheel and watch it drift to one side. But, can this be detected while driving from an OBD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T21:13:01.137" Title="Wheel alignment from OBD parameters" Tags="|obd-ii|steering|alignment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24871" CreationDate="2016-01-17T12:23:38.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time something in the suspension is replaced or something adjustable is undone an a alignment is recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While theoretically there are lots of little tricks to get the alignment close, it will never be perfect without verification with an alignment check. The biggest problem is that the replacement part is never exactly the same as the original especially if using after market parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the threads in the tierod end are not cut exactly the same then it could be a quarter turn off and you'll never know. If the length of the threaded portion of the tierod is 1/8 of an inch longer then counting the threads is pointless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are magnetic angle gauges that can be used to realign a strut back, but again it's close but not prefect, same problem as the tierod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done without an alignment is a separation of the tapered part of a ball joint or a tierod. For example if the need to remove a CV axle arises there is not enough room to pull it out. Separate a ball joint and pull the knuckle out to give enough room to pull out the axle. After reassembly an alignment is not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T12:23:38.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:03:39.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say OBD i'm assuming you mean generic data. The answer is outright NO. OBD generic data has no parameters that the alignment can be gleamed from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has a steering wheel angle sensor then maybe you could tell if something is wrong. This data would be available in manufacturer specific. If the angle has been off for a long time at high speed then the alignment may be off. But that is really it. You can't tell if it's the caster, camber or toe that is out and by how much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T13:03:39.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2016-01-17T13:06:54.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, the OBD-II standard does not require manufacturers to provide this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some manufacturers may make steering angle information accessible through make-specific cables. This is usually done to give dealerships the ability to calibrate or recognize a replacement sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if this information was available, you would need a means to evaluate the angle and orientation of each wheel. Most wheel alignment shops use special tools for this job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T13:06:54.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:08:44.187" Score="-1" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car would stop running while driving it and wouldn't start after that; changed the alternator and now it will start but it doesn't stay running. It stalls every time I try to put it in gear to drive it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14391" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T17:07:18.643" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T17:36:29.097" Title="2010 Hyundai Accent starts but won't stay running" Tags="|engine|hyundai|idle|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21074" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:31:38.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this only a cosmetic problem, or is it more serious? (For instance, is it likely to lead to rusting of the sheet metal, or any structural problem?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently it appears to be a cosmetic issue. Untreated, exposed to the elements, it will eventually create a greater perimeter around your vehicle and rust will occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others may not agree with me but I would not take this lightly. You have to consider &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; this deterioration has occurred. This is directly connected to your windshield. If you let this get to the next stage where rust is prevalent, there will be a number of issues to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rusted windshield frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6IB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6IB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of the work in solved to repair the channel, take a look at this. In severe cases you would be looking at a complete replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEJXi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEJXi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking windshield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible water damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60s7s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60s7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost to repair this will be drastically different from fixing this issue in its current state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix it short of repainting the entire roof? (I would probably have that done professionally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could quite possible repair the selected area without having to do the roof. If there was a problem from the manufacturer not using quality products, or shooting multiple coats, (Camaro reboot), it might be wise to get the whole roof done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assuming that, in the short term, I don't really care how the car looks, is there any advantage to fixing this in a timely manner? Might it be cheaper to fix it now than later? Or could I put it off indefinitely, until I want to sell the car, or until it looks so bad that I am embarrassed to be seen driving it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, refer to my first answer. The cost to repair this now will be substantially cheaper if you let it get to the state I described above. You may not only be looking at body work and paint, but sheet metal repair, upholstery and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice is yours. If you plan on selling the car in the short term, maybe let the next person deal with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T14:31:38.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24872" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:36:41.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most motorcycles do not use OBD II protocol especially Japanese ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harley use something that is the closest to OBD II but I am not sure they might even be exactly OBD II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all we must know what is OBD II, its a set of plugs and adapters, protocol which allows connectivity to a vehicle's computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there is no exact answer as to why motorcycles don't use OBD II protocol can be diagnosed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Far fewer number of sales of motorcycles compared to cars, the average number of motorcycle sales in 2013 was 400,000 while the number of car sales was around 8 million. keep in mind that is just for the USA when you factor in the entire world the difference between a car and motorcycle sales are extremely wide, while someone can argue that in countries like India and Vietnam the motorcycles sales go upwards of 30 million about one tenth of them are actually fuel injected. So coming to the point, when you have a very very large gap between the car and motorcycle sales, there is no point in developing a dedicated protocol to govern the connectivity, it simply does not matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you take into account what superbike companies like Aprilla or cruisers like Indian motorcycle company or Ducati sell , its not worth complying to the standard.&#xA;And&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also they don't want to you service it yourselves so that they can charge money for service, this is especially notorious for Japanese bikes and in some cases cars. For example I have owned three Japanese cars a 2004 Suzuki Zen, a 2009 Swift diesel and a 2005 Baleno and none of them are OBD II compliant. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manufactures use proprietary tools and handshake protocols so you most possibly wont be able to use one scanner on all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japanese  connectors look like OBD II but your scanner wont work the pin configuration is fairly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also point to note that its sometimes its difficult to get access to the ECU itself in a motorcycle let alone diagnose it most manufacturers are generous enough to keep it under the seat but Yamaha R1 for example has it somewhere near the left fairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially asking everyone to put a common connector in a bike at the same location like the foot-well in the case of a car , where space is a luxury is not logical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T09:45:04.257" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T09:45:04.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24707" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:51:57.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is called a &lt;em&gt;ride height sensor&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/sensors/chassis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delphi&lt;/a&gt; is one manufacturer that makes sensors for a wide variety of production vehicles from Corvettes to Cadillacs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouEEY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouEEY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delphi rotary sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For motorsports applications, there are also optical sensors.  One popular one (at least in pro racing) is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kasensors.com/us/products/non-contact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KA Sensors RHL3&lt;/a&gt;.  It bounces a laser beam off the ground and determines height.  As I recall the Porsche factory cars that won at Le Mans in 2015 used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIdJf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIdJf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;KA Sensors RHL3 laser sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your exact needs, using the term &quot;ride height sensor&quot; should get you plenty of hits in the search engine of your choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T14:51:57.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24878" CreationDate="2016-01-17T17:36:29.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the check engine light on? A relatively common failure is the crank shaft position sensor which can cause the car to die while driving. As well as hard starting/No start. IIRC the alternator on a Hyundai 4 cylinder is typically on the exhaust side of the engine near the radiator. So it may be safe to assume that the vacuum hoses are untouched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T17:36:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T18:19:03.280" Score="10" ViewCount="4169" Body="&lt;p&gt;1953 F-100 w/ 428 Cobra Jet FE motor.&#xA;I want to spare my grill and avoid putting the condenser in front of the radiator. Plus, it's already a beast to cool in hot weather, and I live in hell. (It's hot here.)  Any other locations for the condenser that you can suggest? Be creative! I'm open to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14394" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T19:37:38.527" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T17:31:31.770" Title="Where can A/C condenser be located other than in front of radiator?" Tags="|ford|ac|f100|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24755" CreationDate="2016-01-17T18:49:52.317" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this nice animation of a 2-stroke engine with an  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;expansion chamber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qk44Y.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qk44Y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AArbeitsweise_Zweitakt.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While moving downwards after ignition, the piston exposes the exhaust opening, and the burned gas streams into the exhaust pipe like a (high pressure) shock wave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the inertia, this gas will create a slight vacuum wave behind it, which helps to suck out more burned gas, but also fresh gas as soon as the intake opening is uncovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first cone helps to increase the vacuum: When the gas travels through the pipe with a certain speed, it travels through a certain volume per time. If the cross section is increased and the speed remains the same, the wave travels through a larger volume. This creates more ... uhm... vacuum volume behind the wave. It's a bit hard to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, now we have fresh gas in the cylinder, but also in the manifold. &#xA;The shock wave now hits the right cone and gets reflected. I.e. you now have a shock wave running towards the cylinder. It hits the fresh gas right in the moment when the intake opening is covered by the piston, and presses this gas into the cylinder. When the piston covers the exhaust opening, too, the fresh gas already is under some pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, the exhaust forms some kind of compressor, increasing the volumetric efficiency / power of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape of the exhaust is very critical with respect to timing: The length of the pipe between exhaust opening and first cone defines when the amplified vacuum wave reaches the cylinder - it should be there when the intake openings are exposed and fresh gas can be sucked out of them. And the distance to the second cone defines when the reflected shockwave reaches the cylinder. Again: This should happen when the intake is already covered, and the exhaust is not yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the exhaust pipe is designed for a specific RPM, where you get the maximum gain in power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the angles of the cones allow to broaden the RPM range where the motor develops its power, at the cost of maximum power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here are power / torque curves for three exhaust systems on the same scooter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GxUG.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GxUG.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's notable that the motor starts to develop some power right above 5000RPM because there the exhaust starts to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blue curve is a quite narrow peak with a maximum at 7700 RPM. it looses power quite rapidly for higher/lower RPMs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The red curve is shifted to higher RPM, where it should develop more power - but instead, it's designed for a wider RPM range. So, the max. power is similar to that of the blue curve, but the RPM range is about twice as wide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the design depends on the needs of the vehicle, too. A motor cross bike usually has a transmission with several fixed gears and so runs over a wide RPM range. In contrast, scooters usually have a variomatic, which allows the motor to run on a certain, constant RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T18:49:52.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24883" CreationDate="2016-01-17T19:49:40.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with moving the AC condenser is that it won't do the job. You have to have air flow through it for it to work. Placing it anywhere besides in front of the radiator would be like not having be it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you is to redesign the mount for you grill so you have room to mount the condenser, yet not move the grill. The condenser isn't that wide, most being no more than an inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't possible, see if you can mount the radiator further back so you can find room in front of it. There has to room front or rear to move the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it's going to take some fabrication to make it happen, but shouldn't be impossible either way. When you are looking to put things into place where they weren't in the first place, you have to make some changes (but I guess you already realized it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T19:49:40.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T20:10:06.137" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIo52.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;![&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;enter image description here&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&quot;&gt;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIo52.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFfvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I make a right turn it hear a loud noise . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT for OP: Well it's a Nissan altima 05 . Every time I make a right turn i hear this metal noise . I check my wheels and only me right side has that hole so I figured that's what's causing that noise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14398" LastEditorUserId="14398" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T20:50:42.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:07:19.560" Title="Is my car safe to drive?" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24883" CreationDate="2016-01-17T20:13:03.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could do what Roadkill did with their &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/XuHIemMF4kY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear-engined Mazda pickup&lt;/a&gt; and place it in the truck bed with some duct work (or better, auxiliary electric fans) to keep air flowing across the condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, as @Paulster2 highlights is that the ability of the AC system to reject heat will be impacted by how much air can flow through the condenser. This is why it is placed at the front of most vehicles; the movement of air through the condenser is a freebie whenever the car moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T20:13:03.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24886" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:07:19.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a great lot to go on, but it does sound like a siezed bearing at the top of the strut.  Because the bearing is not able to rotate, the Spring is forced to slide across it's mounting which it does suddenly causing a loud 'twang' noise.  The hole in the cover in your photo will have nothing to do with the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:07:19.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:07:39.447" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;please help &#xA;Changed clutch and slave cylinder &#xA;Trying to bleed it but just air bubbles &#xA;Can't see any leaks &#xA;It's a 2004 Camry &#xA;Could it be the booster ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14399" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:52:49.000" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:52:49.000" Title="Toyota 04 Camry" Tags="|toyota|clutch|repair|camry|clutch-hydraulics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-18T18:15:59.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24123" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:28:35.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;PROBLEM&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the photo, on the lock actuator replacement part for my car door there is a plastic part (left) and a metal part (right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rb2kt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rb2kt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lock Actuator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The two parts, metal and plastic, are supposed to move as one unit. If the unit is rotated anti-clockwise then the door lock will be in the locked position. If the door is rotated clockwise then the door would be in the unlocked position. In my case when trying to push the lock in to the unlocked position, something inside the faulty lock was causing it to spring back in to the locked position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common fault that I encountered with the door lock was that the plastic part was moving but the metal part was not moving fully in to the unlocked position, hence the door would not unlock. I needed to buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281600718233?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&amp;amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this replacement part&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with my door was that it would not unlock via any means, be it by the key, interior handle or drivers door unlock button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziTZk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziTZk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door locked&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HOW TO REPLACE THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer part of the plastic handle comes off relatively easily and once you've done that there are only three screws holding the interior trim on the car. There are two in the handle (as shown in the image below), and one right on the bottom of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/frYZh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/frYZh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door handle screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the interior trim, gently lever the panel using a large screwdriver from multiple points around the circumference of the panel to release the panel from the small plastic clips that are still holding the panel in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have got the panel off the door, the door should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eypme.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eypme.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door with interior trim removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;At this point I recommend that you disconnect everything you can. All the electrics can be unclipped and the short grey rod can also be taken off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you need to take out the plastic pin that holds the glass window in its slider. Once you've done this you will be able to lift the glass up out of its slider easily. We used duck tape to hold it in place. If the pin on yours is stiff, just push harder. We had to use a lot of force to get it out as it was a very snug fit but be patient and it will come out eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can use a 10mm socket to unscrew all of the bolts on the edge of the metal panel and you should be able to take it straight off. With the metal panel removed, you should finally have direct access to the lock. This is the part that we need to replace. It is still held in by two more bolts on the side of the door frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EXTRA STEP IF YOUR DOOR WON'T OPEN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're door is still shut, you will need to force the door to open by moving the faulty lock in to the unlock position. This is quite a strong part, but is doesn't matter if you break the plastic part off it (as seen in the first photo) because you are going to replace it with the new one anyway when you're finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just lever the lock up from underneath, as you can see in the photo below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DlFqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DlFqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door lock actuator to unlock position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the door open, here is a view of what the door should look like with the metal panel removed and the a lock in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmW97.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmW97.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;door panel with lock part visible&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the lock itself, there are another two screws holding it to the door. Unscrew these from the side of the door where the lock is situated, and it should then come straight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Now that your car door is open, you can fit the new lock in and put everything back together (which is literally just the exact reverse of assembly).&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your central locking system should work as intended!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:28:35.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24893" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:39:49.773" Score="7" ViewCount="6602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of manufactures like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/car-manufacturers/vauxhall/10397642/Vauxhall-Astras-speed-endurance-record.html&quot;&gt;Vauxhall/Opel&lt;/a&gt; and Ford seem to test their new models of cars by driving it at top speed for hours on end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the point of this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it stress an engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:51:10.560" Title="Does driving at top speed damage a car or stress the engine?" Tags="|engine-theory|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24892" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:51:10.560" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've posted this graphic before, but I think it's pertinent here as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jAWXc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jAWXc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image of a graph which Carroll Smith put in his book, &lt;em&gt;Engineer to Win&lt;/em&gt;. In the book, one of the sections talks about metal fatigue. In this specific graph, he's talking about how stress affects any given metal part: how much will a part take before it fails. The graph describes that a part only has a finite number of cycles in them before they let go. That number, if the part is treated nicely, may be 10,000,000 (or some other stratospheric number). When you put more stress on the part, the parts lifetime is decreased. The effect of the stress is accumulative: &lt;em&gt;the part will not heal itself&lt;/em&gt;. As you put the higher stress on any given part, its overall lifetime is diminished. The more stress you put on the part, the sooner it will fail. &lt;em&gt;This is even if you keep it within its engineered limits&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the manufacturer's main reason for testing the engine at the higher stress levels is to &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; to get it to fail. In doing the testing this way, if it doesn't fail, they know they've done the engineering well. They know the customer will never stress a car this way. If nothing fails in testing, they can be pretty sure the car won't fail when on the road under normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:51:10.560" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24897" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:51:16.207" Score="10" ViewCount="7868" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I came across the term &quot;knurled piston&quot; and I don't know what it means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a knurled piston?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the difference between that and a normal piston?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why should you use a knurled piston rather than a regular piston (or not, as the case may be)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T15:53:43.743" Title="What exactly is a &quot;knurled piston&quot;?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|piston|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24899" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:07:51.400" Score="6" ViewCount="5883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this thing has something to do with injecting fluids in to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is an &quot;idle&quot; or &quot;pilot jet&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does every car have one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is their functional purpose (i.e. what do they do)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:25:30.903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T11:18:37.013" Title="What exactly is an &quot;idle jet&quot;?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24894" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:09:32.190" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knurling is a process where a cross-hatch stamp is pushed into metal. By doing this, the metal is compressed in some areas and raised in others. Here is a picture of a piston with a knurled portion in the side skirt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeQyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeQyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main part of the piston (as in the picture) which gets knurled is the skirt. The reason someone would knurl a piston is one of two reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if they want the piston skirt to hold more oil while running. This can provide better lubrication to the cylinder walls and with the piston skirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, and is more often the reason, people will have old pistons with worn skirts knurled to take up the slack where the worn part of the piston is at. This allows the piston to fit in the cylinder better than it would otherwise. This is only done during a rebuild where the engine builder is trying to skimp on parts. Since there is relatively little surface area on the piston skirt where the knurling is done which will actually touch the cylinder wall, this area will wear away fairly quickly (in the grand scheme of things). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knurling pistons is an &quot;old school&quot; technique which I don't think is used much in the modern era. Piston manufacturers are able to produce quality pistons at a cheap price so affording new pistons to replace old ones is a lot easier to accomplish. This is doubly so considering getting old pistons knurled costs you money ... the difference between new pistons and knurling is not that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides decorative knurling, you can also find knurling done to valve guides to get a worn guide back into spec. This too, has ran its course and has fallen out of favor. One of the possible side effects of knurling your valve guides is if it's not done just right, can make your valve guide act like an oil pump and actually push excess oil into the cylinder. The guide also wears out rather quickly for the same reasons I talked about for the piston. Besides, you can get a valve guide insert done for a relatively cheap price. Inserts work far better than knurling, last longer, and there's no risk of making an oil pump out of your work. It's also much cheaper than having a new valve guide put into your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T22:09:32.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24872" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:10:33.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some motorcycles have a CAN BUS, some don't&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBDII connector type is simply a standard instituted by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers).  In 1996 the US government mandated that all cars sold in the United States conform to the SAE OBDII standards.  They didn't specify motorcycles.  As result, a myriad of on-board diagnostic methods were implemented.  Some failed and some rose to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may not have an OBDII connector but many motorcycles still have a CAN BUS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All Harley Davidson motorcycles from 2013 and later have a CAN BUS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/index.html?content=http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/technology_new/item_can_bus.html&amp;amp;notrack=1&quot;&gt;BMW Motorcycles&lt;/a&gt; from MY 2008 and later have a CAN BUS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/twisted-throttle-can-bus-adapter-bmw-ducati-triumph/p-SPM8131748917&quot;&gt;CAN BUS connector for Ducati, BMW and Triumph&lt;/a&gt; motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the motorcycle equivalent of OBD-II?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, many motorcycles conform to the CAN BUS protocol they just don't have an OBDII connector, they will have their own proprietary connector and you can buy converters for the various manufacturers that do support the protocol standard and use your OBDII scan tool to retrieve information.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there has not been a regulatory component mandating standardization the various connection types have become proprietary as manufacturers try to maintain their closed end to end systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Proprietary Systems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some motorcycle manufacturers such as Suzuki that have maintained their own proprietary systems.  Suzuki's implementation of an on-board diagnostic system is called Suzuki Diagnostic System or SDS.  It uses it's own proprietary protocol on the wire.  Much like Microsoft did in the 80's and 90's with LANMan and Apple did with AppleTalk network protocols before full adoption of TCP/IP as global network protocol standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other examples of proprietary BUS network protocols but too many to list.  The above list with CAN BUS implementations is not a full list, just citing a few examples of conformity to a standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, companies like Bosch, Siemens and NGK are driving standards but it may be quite a few years before full adoption is achieved.  Cost reduction for overall compliance is one of the drivers for the hold out manufacturers and with more than likely drive compliance as CAN BUS costs are reduced to the point where lack of adoption does not make financial sense anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough, Google searches for  (insert manufacturer name&quot;, &quot;can bus&quot;, programmer yield a plethora of hits for hiring programmers for Ducati and Harley Davidson  Most of the good information is hidden by password protected portals for dealers and certified technicians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T03:19:00.077" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T03:19:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24896" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:48:27.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An idle or pilot jet is a component of a carburetor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It affects mixture at idle and just off idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main jet affects mixture at off idle all the way to wide open and takes over mixture of the AFR at higher engine/intake tract airflow speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idle jet is often affected by air and fuel screws that can adjust the AFR during idle and closed throttle operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An incorrect idle AFR can result in backfiring under close throttle high RPM operations of an engine, especially under load and deceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T11:18:37.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T11:18:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2016-01-17T23:22:34.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;POWER BRAKE BOOSTER- with out a doubt.  You just might have a hole in the Diaphragm of the Power Brake Booster. Turn the car on and press the brake pedal down to the floor and hold it--- if it goes to floor within 15 seconds or less--, and if you hear a HAUGHT sound when releasing the pedal,-- it's a good chance you need a Brake Booster.  When one of your brakes lock up you can temporarily release the stuck caliper / Brake by loosening / Bleeding the brake fluid line that leads to that particular wheel.  You can loosen the Bleeder valve on the Brake Caliper or Brake Piston (on older vehicles) to allow the Caliper or Brake Piston to open and release.  You may hear a slight clicking noise when doing this; it is the sound of the piston moving away from the rotor.  Just wait till it stops clicking or at least 15 seconds and close the Bleeder valve.  You should be able to turn the wheel now. You can also loosen the line-nut, located on the Fluid Compression Box.  Just look for a box under the hood that looks like it has spider legs (tubing), one of the lines attached to this box is also connected directly to your specific wheel so you can actually do this from under the hood.  Just crack the fluid line-nut and let it purge for about 15 seconds and close the line.  Check your Brake Fluid / top it off and That's it but don't bother with topping off the fluid until you've replaced the Power Brake Booster First !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T23:34:43.017" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T23:34:43.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24716" CreationDate="2016-01-17T23:59:01.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an Air Passage issue to me.  This could mean: a bad Mas Air Flow Sensor or maybe a poor Throttle Body Sensor, and maybe even a clogged EGR Valve or a dirty Throttle body Unit.  These items can clog with carbon and need to be cleaned or replaced after time.  These items cah each be checked with a Probe Light Tester first to make sure you're getting power to each item.  Try to think in terms of a gas cooking stove-- there are tubes inside that lead to each particular burner to control air flow, these tubes have adjustable windows for air flow.  If the air tube is opened too much or closed too much you will not get proper flame to your stove top it will ignite and blow itself out or it will spew gas and not ignite at all, or the flame does not come through as a healthy flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T00:07:30.247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T00:07:30.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24905" CreationDate="2016-01-17T23:59:25.800" Score="19" ViewCount="16159" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building an engine, the terms &lt;em&gt;over-square&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;under-square&lt;/em&gt; come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do these terms mean?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they apply to engine building? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is better for what purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give examples of each and their usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T03:50:50.640" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T00:47:22.190" Title="What does under-square and over-square mean?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T00:51:29.690" Score="9" ViewCount="4586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed recently that my mazda 3 on cold starts would show the at warning light. When I start it, it normally flashes it for a few seconds then disappears. Then when I pull it out of the garage, the at warning light shows. What I do is I immediately shut it off, then start it again, and the warning light disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has happened to me twice already so I am a bit concerned as to why it is appearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the transmission fluid it is still very red, no burned smell. I am thinking if this is a solenoid problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to have the code checked, but I wonder if it is because I immediately move the car around 5-10 seconds after I start the engine. Will be a factor to the issue? Also shifting from reverse to neutral to drive to neutral to reverse and back to drive would also cause a problem to the car?(It's how I pull out of my garage) if the car is still cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the symptoms, Does it have a big chance that it really is the shift solenoid or is there another problem? I want to at least prepare myself if it isn't a solenoid problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T14:18:53.483" Title="2005 Mazda 3 at warning light at cold start ups" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24902" CreationDate="2016-01-18T00:57:45.960" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What do these terms mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These terms are related to the bore and stroke measurements of a pistons travel inside a bore of an internal combustion engine.  Bore is the diameter of the cylinder.  Stroke is the distance a piston travels within a bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does under-square and over-square mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under-square refers to a piston diameter measurement that is smaller than the stroke length measurement.  Over-square refers to the opposite.  A stroke length measurement that is smaller than a piston diameter measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do they apply to engine building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are essential components to accomplishing a particular goal in engine building.  A larger bore allows a larger piston.  A larger piston allows for a larger combustion chamber.  A larger combustion chamber allows for larger valves which will effect the quantity of gasses that can potentially flow through the ICE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In pushrod engines a longer bore can create more valve reciprocating weight due to the longer pushrods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In DOHC engines a shorter stroke and a larger piston can allow for a higher RPM and more efficiency at higher RPM's due to less reciprocating weight related to the connecting rods, pistons and crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which is better for what purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, a long stroke will result in an engine with higher torque at lower RPM due to the higher reciprocating mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short stroke can result in greater engine performance &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; the engine is designed for high RPM running.  Engines typically become more efficient at higher RPM's, to a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you give examples of each and their usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In motorcycles the Ducati Desmosedici powerplant has an over-square configuration.  A short stroke with a very large piston.  This is a high RPM 989cc engine.  The Harley Davidson Twin Cam 98B powerplant is 1.8 liters is an under-square configuration with a very long stroke V-Twin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ducati Desmosedici Powerplant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Cylinder V-Twin&#xA;BORE X STROKE   86mm x 42.56mm, 998cc, an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;over-square&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; configuration.  This engine produces 200 HP at 10,600 RPM's.  Redline is 13,600 RPM's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harley Davidson 98B Powerplant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Cylinder V-Twin&#xA;BORE X STROKE   98.4 mm x 111.3 mm, 1800cc an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;under-square&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; configuration.  This engine produces approximately 95hp &amp;amp; 110 ft lbs of torque.  Redline is 5,800 RPM's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Harley with its long stroke, high reciprocating mass and resulting low RPM has lots of bottom end power and torque at low RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ducati with its high revving, over-square bore Desmosedici powerplant gets deep into high RPM efficiency and puts out a massive 200 HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely different applications of under and over square bore designed engines and the results of these types of configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T00:47:22.190" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T00:47:22.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24902" CreationDate="2016-01-18T01:44:26.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Undersquare means the stroke is bigger than the bore.&#xA;Oversquare means the bore is bigger than the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't necessarily mean anything in terms of RPM capability, torque curve or anything like that. Those are more dependent on things like rod ratio, head flow, camshaft profile, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a purely theoretical standpoint, you would think that an engine with lots of stroke but relatively little bore would be poor at making power up top due to less room for air to flow through the head (the size of the bore places an upper limit on the size of the valves) and more extreme rod angles as the crank turns (the more stroke, the farther out to the side the big end of the rod goes)... but this isn't necessarily true in the real world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, consider the honda B series engines... all significantly undersquare. But they have decently high decks (the measurement from the crank center and the top of the block) and thus good rod ratios. They also have good flowing heads and thanks to variable valve timing, they have excellent high rpm camshaft profiles. From the factory they typically make peak power past 8000 rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare to the relatively less underquare mazda b series engines that have less stroke and more bore. Despite this, they don't make good power at high rpms- this is because they tend to have poor flowing heads, hydraulic lifter valvetrains and very mild camshaft profiles. The mazda b series also have short decks for their stroke and thus poor rod ratios which further hamper high rpm use. The early years tended to make peak power just above 6000 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what purpose undersquare and oversquare have, they are mainly just side effects of the automotive development process. The more bore an engine has, the more space the block and head take up in the engine bay in terms of length and width. This can allow a head with bigger valves and bigger ports, but there's more to head flow than raw size. The more stroke an engine has, the less RPM the engine is capable of for a given deck height, which means that more stroke means more deck height or less RPM. And the more the deck height rises, the longer and potentially heavier the rods have to get, which introduces its own set of constraints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically oversquare and undersquare are a simple representation of the shape of the cylinder, but this doesn't really tell you anything at all about the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T07:33:03.803" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T07:33:03.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24924" CreationDate="2016-01-18T03:00:06.940" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my timing belt.   Now the engine vibrates horribly. I believe the cam timing is 100% but I believe I didn't time my counter  balancer correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Haynes manual photos and description leave something to be desired.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone proved timing instructions for the cam, counter balancer crank relationship?  I'm pretty frustrated searching.  I'm old and I figure one of you smart young folks can nail this down.  I'll happily trade this piece of junk for 1950 ford truck.  Now that's easy to work.  I'll take the points on that all day.  Thanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14094" LastEditorUserId="14094" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T03:07:30.097" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T15:15:30.530" Title="2003 Chevy Malibu Deluxe. Engine counter balancer timing" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21585" CreationDate="2016-01-18T04:20:19.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, more load equals more heat. Revving the engine in neutral produces slightly more load than idling in neutral. But not by much. Actually driving the car around will heat it up faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that cold oil pressure will be a lot higher than warm oil pressure and oil pressure is also proportional to RPM. The oil pump should have a pressure relief valve, but they vary in effectiveness. So you probably shouldn't be bouncing off the rev limiter when your engine is still at -20 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T04:20:19.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T04:23:31.383" Score="9" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a older tractor. My question relates to the fuel system. The older fuel injectors don't have any external seals? All of them seat and 3 don't leak but one does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a seal but it didn't have any not even on the tip. So I'm wondering if they have a torque spec or how does it use a pressurized fuel system with no o-rings or gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested in specific application type: motor casting number # D5NN6015H&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This places it in 75'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MODEL #LA254(6)(G)(C)(last digit maybe)&#xA;Production #8H22B&#xA;Serial # &lt;em&gt;c580840&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSdBy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSdBy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:35:20.150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:35:20.150" Title="Ford Tractor 5600" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|diesel|fuel-injectors|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24921" CreationDate="2016-01-18T04:51:47.887" Score="1" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a honda and the owner said it doesn't start( it's 400$ so worth it)  and am trying  to  figure out a few things  1 would be  what are some things to check on it since it hasn't been started and running  in 2 years (would I need new gas)  what can I use to inflate one tire. And in case it truly does need more work done to it how can I move it about 5 blocks without  a  tow dolly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14408" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:35:39.400" Title="How would you move a small vehicle a relatively short distance" Tags="|towing|fix-a-flat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-18T21:08:17.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24918" CreationDate="2016-01-18T05:53:05.860" Score="5" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand more intimately the basics of the wankel engine combustion cycle.  What I find interesting is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simplicity of design&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use of ports for intake and exhaust&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Conversion of energy to torque &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not interested in efficiency. I am interested in it's operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the components involved and phases of combustion in a rotary engine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:28:30.840" Title="What are the basics of the combustion cycle in wankel (rotary) engines?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|wankel-engine|rotary-engine|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24927" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:55:44.087" Score="10" ViewCount="1546" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of opinion out there regarding the efficiency delta between wankel rotary engines and four stroke engines of various configurations (forced induction, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This delta, whatever it is, seems to be a debate of how much.  How much waste, how much efficiency, how much power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the actual deficiencies of a rotary engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the delta of efficiency between a rotary engine and modern four-stroke engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the root cause regarding the configuration of a rotary engine that makes it so wasteful?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T21:14:57.397" Title="What is the efficiency delta between rotary and modern four-stroke engines" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|four-stroke|wankel-engine|rotary-engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24920" CreationDate="2016-01-18T10:53:54.163" Score="5" ViewCount="1457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I was on the highway and suddenly my car broke down and it was cranking and all but not starting so I knew some fuse has blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the indicator fuse and used it for fuse which gave power to the instrument cluster and the car started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure why the particular fuse blew so suddenly , I am not sure what to check next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that all electricity is coming either from the alternator or the battery, so I am not sure where the problem lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T14:09:14.377" Title="ECM Fuse Blown what to test next" Tags="|battery|alternator|fuse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T04:24:53.950" Score="6" ViewCount="27750" Body="&lt;p&gt;How could you move a small car  a small distance (like  5 blocks) without a tow dolly or tow straps  I have rope but don't have tow straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14408" OwnerDisplayName="user36537" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T11:48:00.567" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T11:39:08.817" Title="How to move car a small distance without tow dolly" Tags="|towing|breakdown|recovery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24916" CreationDate="2016-01-18T11:51:09.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rope is all you will need. Almost all vehicles have an accessible strong point that can be used to tow. This may be a loop or hook specifically designed for towing, or it may just be a part of the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a tow rope incorporating a little elasticity is best for towing (as it can soak up jolts) you can safely tow using just a rope, and a little diligence on the part of the drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember cars with power steering or power assisted brakes may be much harder to drive if the engine is not running, so take care. And the key will need to be in the ignition to release the steering lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for cars with automatic transmission the recommendation is that you carry on a flat-bed truck, don't tow, if your engine is not running!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T12:30:21.947" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T12:30:21.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24912" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:05:51.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like a conventional piston engine with poppet valves (Otto cycle), Wankel engines operate on the four-stroke cycle (suck-squeeze-bang-blow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Wikimedia animation succinctly describes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wankel Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor seals off the air/fuel intake charge from the intake port, gradually compressing it until it is sufficiently compressed, at which point the spark plug ignites the mixtures, generating rotary motion which then carries the combustion gases towards the exhaust port and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some noteworthy characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;look mom, no valves!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means no need for cams, camshafts, timing belts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smooth power delivery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;due to the absence of reciprocating motion that is inherent to piston-engines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;oil needed for lubrication&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the oil is needed to lubricate the rotor and is mixed with the air/fuel intake charge, so the engine will by design consume oil at a faster rate than a well-designed piston engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:28:30.840" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:28:30.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24916" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:28:46.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several considerations here.  But the most important missing piece in your question is a second driver. If you don't have the car you are towing on a dolly or trailer someone will need to operate the steering and brakes.  Depending on where you live they may also need to be a licensed vehicle operator.  The car you are towing also needs to be licensed and insured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has a manual transmission, you may want to tow it in neutral. (second option later)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has an automatic transmission, tow it running in neutral as suggested by Rory in his answer.  If it does not run, and it has rear wheel drive (front engine) disconnect the drive line to prevent damage to the automatic transmission.  If it is front wheel (or rear engine, rear wheel drive), you can theoretically disconnect the drive shafts, but this probably not practical.  Lastly you can tow a car with an automatic transmission by just putting it in neutral there is risk of transmission damage, I have flat towed cars with automatics distance of 5+ miles and gone on to drive them, transmission damage is a risk not an absolute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the only thing you have to tow with is rope, it needs to be &lt;strong&gt;STRONG&lt;/strong&gt;, the amount of forces involved are huge, particularly when starting stopping and also while turning if one vehicle rolls over the rope when it is slack. Before attempting to tow the vehicle test the strength.  With the brakes applied in the dead vehicle pull with the tow vehicle. Your tow vehicle will either spin a tire, or the dead vehicle will drag its locked tires &lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt; the tow rope will break, be aware when the rope breaks it will snap and swing, Everything within a circle the length of the rope is in danger, &lt;a href=&quot;http://nasdonline.org/1151/d000945/safe-use-of-tow-ropes-cables-and-chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;people die when tow ropes break.&lt;/a&gt; If it breaks in the parking lot you have some control over who is around, if it breaks while you are moving, not only might you kill someone walking down the street, your dead car is going to be sitting in the middle of the road, when the police arrive they will likely impound it, along with all the other legal implications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally your tow rope/strap should be at least one car length long, the driver of the dead vehicle will need time to react if the tow car stops suddenly.  If your tow rope/strap/chain is short running it through a steel pipe can help prevent damage, the pipe will act as limiting device preventing the dead car from running into the tow car.  If the dead car has questionable brakes, this is critical. You will want to limit slack to as little as possible, an inch or less is best.  You also need the pipe to be long enough so the cars won't touch when turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first couple of times someone flat tows a car is a learning experience, it is going to be very bumpy with lots of tugs, jerks and bumps.  You should expect that one or both cars will get a bumper dent, or that the tie point will be damaged.  Many newer cars have holes in the frame that special towing hooks are connected to, by a tow truck.  In this case whatever you tie to under the car is not designed for the loads flat towing will subject them to. If you can't afford to repair this damage don't hook to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming everything else is going well, you need to move now.  Keeping the tow rope taught is important. Ideally the person in the dead vehicle will apply a slight pressure on the brakes to keep the rope tight.  If the dead vehicle has a manual transmission, and is otherwise in good shape, you can put the dead car in 3rd gear and let the engine compression apply the back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="4694" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T13:36:09.917" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:36:09.917" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24915" CreationDate="2016-01-18T14:09:14.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars commonly multiplex their electrical systems. This means that multiple things are fed from the same fuse. The best way to identify what is on the fuse is to check the wiring diagrams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all the possible sources from the fuse have been identified the fault can be systematically narrowed down. First look at components that come on and off, this is the most likely source. If those sources are eliminated then everything else needs examined. Possible causes could be shorted or bare wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I worked on a Ford Taurus, intermittently the PCM battery fuse would blow. I found that the Air Conditioning Clutch was on the same fuse. When ever the clutch came on the fuse would blow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T14:09:14.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24910" CreationDate="2016-01-18T14:24:22.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There definitely is risk purchasing something without knowing the condition it is in. Is it not running because the battery is out of it, or is something else to blame? Without knowing the details, if things go wrong, you may not be able to recover your money in scrap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the obvious, fuel, oil, spark, coolant, etc. Put some stabilizer in the fuel before attempting to start it. Add new fuel as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ukdnz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ukdnz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, if it doesn't start with a new battery, changed fluids and good spark plugs, you will be chasing problems down the rabbit hole. We cannot tell you how much repair costs will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't you consider starting it where it currently is? It doesn't take very long to check the fluids and pop a new battery in it. If the seller refuses you the opportunity, perhaps it is best you avoid this deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can move the vehicle with a heavy duty strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IJqK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IJqK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles usually have hooks to grab onto for towing. If you have difficulty locating them you can always wrap on to the front and rear axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of how it is done. You must have someone in the vehicle being towed, and ensure the brakes are in working order. If you are concerned about damage, you can strap a tire to the rear section of the car that is doing the pulling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRFJC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRFJC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned there may be difficulty with a low tire. If the vehicle is not near a compressor, you can bring a portable one to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Behold the Air Pig! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIbaT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIbaT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of Air Pig you have, and how low the tire is, you may be required to fill it up, (with a compressor) multiple times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:35:39.400" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:35:39.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T14:48:17.130" Score="2" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a 2012 Ford Focus Zetec which has been having an issue, I think, when the wipers are set to continuous mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, the wipers will switch to intermittent mode when in continuous mode. The wiper speed selector has no bearing on how often the wipers run when this happens. I didn't think this car had a windscreen sensor so I'm confused how it would do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this issue, or is my car smarter than I thought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7368" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T14:48:17.130" Title="Ford Focus 2012 Continuous Wiper Issue" Tags="|ford|focus|windshield-wipers|zetec|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:10:27.650" Score="6" ViewCount="14739" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch of our 124 Scania stopped working properly with the &quot;14 speed&quot; syncromesh gearbox. The first time it happened, it ground instead of smoothly going into reverse (a non-syncro gear), to back out of the shed. When this happens, it's also hard to select a forward (syncro) gear.  Pumping the clutch a few times seems to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch is operated hydraulically &amp;amp; air assist. Possibly air is getting into the hydraulic line (it's brake fluid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was getting a lot of use during harvest &amp;amp; for a few warm days, it had come good (not even a problem when starting in the morning). It went to the mechanic for a service, where they said they'll have a look over it anyway (&amp;amp; that the clutch isn't adjustable). When I picked it up (warm afternoon) it was hard to find a gear again, needing to pump it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To split gears from high/low, it used to only need the clutch pushed half way in. Now it's usually all the way in, worse when it's cold (even finding gears when changing down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It now needs to be revved to change down gears, like a crashbox. This 4 series truck has done 710,000kms, where as our previous 3 series was up to a million &amp;amp; still working fine (same type of gearbox). The clutch's reservoir &#xA;still has plenty in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I expect to have more than just air getting into the clutch's brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearbox oil need replacing? (if so, how often?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch wearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearbox wearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid need to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate some insight, thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14417" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T16:46:09.440" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T14:59:36.990" Title="Scania clutch issue with syncromesh gearbox" Tags="|transmission|clutch|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24907" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:15:30.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the best picture i could find. Align the marks of the balance shaft gears. then install the big gear and chain. While installing align the marks on the big gear and crank shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS this is a timing chain not belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJzkh.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJzkh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T15:15:30.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:23:27.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a lot of different fluids inside a modern car. I tried to group them by purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hydraulic Fluids&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General use&lt;/strong&gt;: Hydraulic fluids are used to &lt;strong&gt;transfer power&lt;/strong&gt; from one point to another&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Fluid&lt;/strong&gt; - Based on glycole-ether, mineral oil or silicone oil. Brake fluids are designed to have high boiling points because the brake system is subject to a lot of heat and hydraulic systems need incompressible fluids to work. If the break fluid starts boiling, it turns into gas - which is compressible. In this case the force from the brake pedal is used to compress the gas instead of moving the brake pads, resulting in a brake failure. Brake fluid is transported by the brake cylinder which is driven by your foot and supported by engine vacuum if your engine is running and equipped with a vacuum servo / brake booster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Steering Fluid&lt;/strong&gt; - In most cases based on mineral oil. Often ATF (see below) is used as hydraulic fluid inside the power steering. Transported by a mechanical pump driven by the crankshaft using a v-belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clutch Fluid&lt;/strong&gt; -  In some cases the clutch fluid and brake fluid are in the same circuit. That means they share the same reservoir and have separate hydraulic cylinders. Even if they don't have the same reservoir, in most cases the clutch fluid itself is just brake fluid. It is transported by mechanic pressure from your leg.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lubricants&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General use&lt;/strong&gt;: Lubricants are used to &lt;strong&gt;minimize friction&lt;/strong&gt; between moving parts. This leads to (significantly) longer lasting components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Oil&lt;/strong&gt; - transported by a mechanical pump inside the engine (driven by crankshaft)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gear Oil&lt;/strong&gt; / Automatic Transmission Fluid (&lt;strong&gt;ATF&lt;/strong&gt;) - I dont't know for sure - but I think its transported inside the gearbox by the gears themselves. If the transmission is equipped with an transmission oil cooler it could be transported with some kind of pump.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Differential Oil&lt;/strong&gt; - transported inside the differential by the differential gears - if the car is equipped with a differential oil cooler it's moved by an electric pump.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Most lubricants serve a double purpose as &lt;strong&gt;coolant fluids&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Coolant Fluids&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General use&lt;/strong&gt;: Coolant fluids are used to &lt;strong&gt;transport heat&lt;/strong&gt; away from components where heat is generated towards a radiator where air transports the heat away from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Coolant&lt;/strong&gt; - Consists of water, anti-freeze additives and anti-corrosive additives, transported by a mechanical pump inside the engine (driven by crankshaft)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AC Coolant&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported by a mechanical pump driven by the crankshaft using a v-belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported to the radiators or cooling fins by dynamic pressure if the car is moving of by fans if the car is not. The fans are driven by the crankshaft or by electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fuels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diesel&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported depending on engine type by an injection pump driven by the crankshaft or camshaft. This can be a unit injector or a high pressure plunger pump (common rail direct fuel injection).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gasoline&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported by an electric pump mostly located inside the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Autogas&lt;/strong&gt; / Liquefied Petroleum Gas (&lt;strong&gt;LPG&lt;/strong&gt;) - Transported by an electric pump located inside the tank&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CNG&lt;/strong&gt; Compressed Natural Gas - Needs no pump as it is stored under high pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Washing fluids&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Windshield washer fluid&lt;/strong&gt; - transported by an electric pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other fluids&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake Air&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported inside the engine by suction (naturally aspirated engine) or by a turbine (turbocharched or supercharged engines)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust Gas&lt;/strong&gt; - Transported out of the engine by the engine itself&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nitrous oxide (N2O)&lt;/strong&gt; - Used to increase engine power. N2O is capable of delivering more oxygen into the engine than air allone could. More Oxygen can be used to burn more fuel which results in higher engine power output. N2O needs no pump as it is stored in pressurized bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water&lt;/strong&gt; and/or &lt;strong&gt;Methanol&lt;/strong&gt; for water injection or methanol-water injection. These fluids are sprayed into the intake air to cool it down, and therefore reduce knocking and increase engine power. This system is also called anti-detonant injection (&lt;strong&gt;ADI&lt;/strong&gt;) or &lt;strong&gt;MW50&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T15:23:27.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25019" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:47:19.503" Score="8" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our van has been progressively getting worse at starting up in the morning. It only has issues when the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I thought it might be the glow plugs. I tested their resistance and they are all at about 1 ohm. I have also voltage tested them and found similar value to battery reading ie. about 12.5v. So I then thought to check wiring and relay by putting my meter between the glow plug and the glow plug cap. Here I get a 11v reading... Shouldn't this be 12v? Is there anything else I can try to troubleshoot the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My van is a Renault Master 2003, got 80k miles and no service history so don't know what jobs have been done...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is truly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7135" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T16:20:17.363" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T09:38:20.010" Title="Issues cold starting diesel van" Tags="|renault|cold-start|diagnostics|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24914" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:06:50.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Wankel engines are still Otto cycle engines (re: intake, compression, ignition, exhaust), they just perform the strokes differently than a valve controlled reciprocating engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Compression Ratio&lt;/strong&gt; - It is known that a higher compression ratio provides more power without any other modification. This difference in compression ratio is said to be about 3% increase in output per 1 point of compression. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~kenneth-weston/chapter7.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This text book&lt;/a&gt; (page 14 of 21 [or page 274 of the text]) shows the compression ratio to be 6.98:1. That is typically giving up between 3-4 points of compression from what a stock piston engine can provide, with very little recourse to increase that number. (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; While these figures show the lower compression ratio, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/musa2/pdf/specs/specs_RX8.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mazda has shown&lt;/a&gt; numbers to be as high as 10:1.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shape of Combustion Chamber&lt;/strong&gt; - In the following image, you can see the basic Otto cycle in the Wankel engine. Due to the inherent shape, when the air/fuel is ignited (between #3 &amp;amp; #4 cycles), the flame front is chasing the leading edge of the rotor around the combustion chamber, but never completely catches up with it. This allows some of the air fuel mixture to escape out of the exhaust port as that port is uncovered. This is why you can sometimes see flames coming from the exhaust of a rotary engined vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puATP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puATP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotor Sealing&lt;/strong&gt; - On the rotor itself, there are three main seals which keeps everything in check: apex seals, face seals, &amp;amp; side seals. (Below is an image showing their locations.) Keeping all of the gasses in their respective locations is a chore for the seals and the seals will usually lose some of that integrity. One of the reasons for this is because the seals have to keep hot and cold unmixed at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SApv6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SApv6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Oil Injection&lt;/strong&gt; - In order to help in keeping a good seal, engine oil is injected directly during the intake cycle and in the intake tract. This provides proper sealing and decreased wear, but introduces inefficiencies in the burn of the air/fuel mixture, as well as creating more pollutants in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Output&lt;/strong&gt; - The below chart is a comparison between three different vehicles with their weight/power/displacement. Looking at the numbers, it becomes clearly evident comparing the vehicle weight, hp output, and mileage numbers, the rotary engine falls short. Just like the other engines, you can turbocharge the rotary engine (the MB GLA45 comes turbo'd from the factory). This will increase output, but &lt;em&gt;will not increase efficiency proportionately&lt;/em&gt; due to how the exhaust flow occurs and not being able to control the intake/exhaust events like you can with piston engine. You will be blowing un-burned hydrocarbons out of the exhaust ports, which is inefficient. I'm not saying either of the piston engined vehicles &lt;em&gt;don't blow hydrocarbons out the exhaust&lt;/em&gt;, I'm saying for the amount of air fuel you dump into the engine, the rotary engine dumps far more as a ratio than do the piston engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;    Vehicle        Size    Power        Torque         Weight    City   HWY&#xA;    2011 RX-8      1.3L    232hp@8500   159lb-ft@5500  3064lbs   16mpg  22mgp   &#xA;    2015 GLA45     2.0L    355hp@6000   332lb-ft@2250  3457lbs   23mpg  29mpg&#xA;    2105 Stingray  6.2L    455hp@6000   460lb-ft@4600  3300lbs   17mpg  29mpg &lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T16:45:07.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:45:07.127" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24923" CreationDate="2016-01-18T16:39:30.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, check for any signs of fluid leak (if you've not done so already) - has the level in the reservoir changed? (fluid leaks aren't always obvious, the level changing is the best indication) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How old is the truck, and when was the fluid last changed? It might be worth changing it anyway... The fact that you can change the behaviour by pumping it certainly points to a hydraulic issue to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearbox oil does need replacing, the service schedule for the truck should tell you how often - it's usually a pretty long interval. If it's well overdue it will probably need a good flush through, and probably another change very soon after to get rid of all the muck that will have accumulated in the box - on automatics that can cause premature failure of the transmission, but I've not heard of that happening on manual boxes (others may correct me here!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other issues that can cause a hard to change clutch include wear of the release bearing or release arm, but I'd expect that to be more consistent, and to not respond to pumping the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:39:30.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:03:39.617" Score="8" ViewCount="95796" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keys in my car were left in the on position for about 12 hours (and maybe the interior light left on) and the battery is drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to tell if I should replace the existing one or it should be recharged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastEditorUserId="14275" LastEditDate="2017-11-09T10:21:01.167" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T12:22:48.617" Title="Replace or recharge a battery after is has been drained?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24934" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:04:15.780" Score="3" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today whilst I was trying to park my 2004 VW Passat B5.5, I noticed that something to do with my wing mirrors wasn't working quite right. When the toggle was on the left position, the left wing mirror would move as expected. When the toggle was on the right position (see picture), the right mirror would also move as expected. &lt;em&gt;However,&lt;/em&gt; whenever the right mirror moves, the left one also moves in the same direction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4adcQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4adcQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wing mirror controls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get this control on my car to function properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T12:20:01.000" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:20:01.000" Title="2004 VW Passat B5.5 - Why are my wing mirrors being weird?" Tags="|car|interior|wing-mirrors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24930" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:10:00.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery should simply be recharged.  Draining a regular automotive battery is not good to do on a regular basis, but doing it once isn't going to have a noticeable ill effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving the battery a full charge would help it, and it's more than most people would do.  Most will just jump start the car, and hope for the best from alternator charging.  That &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; work too, but a full charge with a charger is the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:10:00.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37280" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:21:23.137" Score="8" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Pontiac G6. When I walk up to the vehicle and unlock it, the headlights turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I get into the vehicle and turn it over, I cannot turn the headlights back on. Fog beams and turn signals work fine, but I can't turn the low beams back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause a vehicle's headlights to only be faulty after starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should mention I can turn my brights on, but regular headlights (low beams) are non-functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T16:00:26.423" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:57:37.117" Title="Why would headlights stop working after turning over" Tags="|electrical|headlight|pontiac|gm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24931" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:28:34.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely a knackered switch. The knob probably switches the common earth for the motors in each mirror so it looks like it's earthing both mirrors when it's in the R position. Like @Paulster2 said, you need a new switch. Try and find a service manual (there's usually PDFs floating around on the Internet) so you've got instructions for getting the door card out (if required) and, more importantly, putting everything back together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:28:34.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T17:37:54.187" Score="4" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can  make really dim brights brighter. And the dash light doesn't  turn on (the prnd and mileage lights). I've jumped  my car once when it died and they all turned on but they never did after that. The speed needle lights up  and so does the gas but the bottom half doesnt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14408" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T06:31:53.040" Title="Vehicle light problems 101 (2000 buick century)" Tags="|headlight|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:04:14.860" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I hook my scanner up to view the check engine codes it says I have no power to my scanner. I tested all circuits and my fuses are all good. what could be my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14420" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T18:29:03.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T18:29:03.160" Title="trouble codes on a 1993 chevy silverado" Tags="|chevrolet|dtc|silverado|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24958" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:39:58.450" Score="5" ViewCount="2736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I my answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24916/how-to-move-car-a-small-distance-without-tow-dolly/24919#24919&quot;&gt;How to move car a small distance without tow dolly&lt;/a&gt; I suggested putting a manual transmission vehicle in 3rd gear while towing with a rope or strap to apply back pressure and help keep the tow rope tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my flat towing experience is decades old, everything with a manual had a V8 or inline 6 with a mechanical fuel pump.  Assuming the oil is present, and nothing major is broken (and not to cold) the oil in the engine and transmission move around reasonably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I got thinking, maybe oil pumps have followed fuel pumps into the electric world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any vehicle engines that don't have a mechanical oil pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T18:53:48.347" Title="Are there any vehicle engines that don't have a mechanical oil pump?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:50:05.407" Score="11" ViewCount="13705" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good way to push with your bumper without ruining the body of the car you are pushing (paint scratches do not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14408" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T19:21:21.603" Title="What are some good options for bumper pushing" Tags="|safety|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24943" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:59:29.213" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option I have seen is to put an old tire (without a rim) between the cars.  The tire is flexible and provides a large surface area to minimize the possibility of dents and scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many, &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; cars these days are just not pushable or capable of pushing.  Many &quot;bumpers&quot; are for looks only and won't stand up to any real force without breaking attaching clips or internal mounting brackets.  My general rule would be that unless it has a chrome, metal bumper or you know &lt;em&gt;for a fact&lt;/em&gt; exactly how the bumper is constructed or attached to the car, &lt;strong&gt;DON'T PUSH IT&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T18:59:29.213" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:16:33.490" Score="10" ViewCount="28900" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend wants to sell me a scooter for a very cheap price. It is a Chinese model (Qingqi QM125T-10M). Probably a 125cc machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He tells me that the scooter worked fine and he used it to go to work every day until he lost the key. The scooter was without use for about 8 months. I have already a new key and I filled new petrol into the tank (which was nearly empty) but the problem is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning on the engine is very difficult. After several trials it may run instable (about 1000 rpm - 2000 rpm) for a short while but then it turns off from alone after 3 to 30 seconds. I cannot find a choke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is running and I accelerate, it turns off immediately. It is impossible to make it run faster than stand-by speed. Accelerating kills the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The petrol filter seems to be OK. When pulling the flexible tube a lot of pertol flows out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the most probable cause for this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it true that petrol may &quot;become old&quot; after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How high is the difficulty to repair this (clean anything inside, change spark plug) or do I need a garage for that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anybody know where I can get a service manual for that model?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14422" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T15:28:49.537" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T21:13:43.503" Title="Scooter: Motor goes off when accelerating" Tags="|starting|scooter|acceleration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24943" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:21:21.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you don't do anything really stupid the worst case scenario is the bumper of the dead vehicle riding up over the bumper of the push vehicle.  I have have broken more than one grill doing this.  But the grill is not the big issue, you also have the radiator and other fragile parts just behind the grill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are hanging around the same crowd I did back in the day, there is more than one potential push vehicle available, the best choice is one where the center of the bumpers match of perfectly. Second best is the push vehicle being a bit higher.  A bit lower is bad (per above).  You can sometimes lower the back of the dead vehicle by putting junk in the trunk.  Concrete blocks, engine block, transmission, etc. Optimally if the one bumper slides on top of another you want the good vehicle to get the high position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cornering and bumps (onto driveway from road) are the two biggest problem areas. I you are pushing around a corner or over a bump that is when you tend to break, head lights, tail lights and get the bumpers on top of each other. The push vehicle should provide enough energy prior to the obstacle to get around the corner, or over the bump then fall back.  Once past the obstacle the push vehicle re-contacts the dead vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases when touching bumpers you want relative speed to be close to 1 mph.  If the dead car is stopped, move forward slowly until they touch. If the dead car is still rolling, ease into as slowly as possible.  When they touch give the push vehicle a bit more power, you want to keep the pressure on, if you don't push a bit harder on contact you will bounce back then ram the dead car when you accelerate.  I use both feet for this, one brake, one gas. It takes a little practice, but it is easier to learn than keeping a tow rope tight when flat towing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people like to use a tire (without a rim) as between the bumpers of the two cars. You can tie it to either vehicle, it doesn't really mater.  In my experience this just tends to put black scuff marks all over. Back in the day of chrome bumpers it had value, but since around the 1980's bumper have had built in shock absorber and plastic/rubber covers. So not a lot of added value.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have to push where the push vehicle has the lower bumper the tire can be a good choice to protect the grill and other fragile parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T19:21:21.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T20:47:34.470" Score="5" ViewCount="2891" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a 06 HCH that we bought from an individual owner January of last year. It's been running fine, until Jan 5th of this year. It seems the IMA battery is degrading, but that shouldn't cause the issue we are having. Randomly, the instrument panel goes bonkers, lights flashing like a christmas tree. That's odd, but the worst part is, at this time, power steering and brakes fail. The engine is still running, but very low RPMS. Almost dead, but if you gas it, it revs back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned the IMA battery off (factory switch behind back seat) and obviously it drives very odd in that mode, but the panel didn't go nuts. A week later, I turned the battery back on, and it seemed to drive 'as normal' for one whole day before acting up again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After research, it seems that you should be able to drive the HCH with a failing/failed IMA battery mostly normally, but no accel. assist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be a bad fuse somewhere? [Which? I've never seen a car with this many fuses..] Bad IMA controller board? Just a bad ground somewhere??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty good with mechanics...and computers, but this is a different ball park for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional Info:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~143,000 Miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prev. owner 'replaced' IMA battery at unknown time frame (via&#xA;dealership)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From above, I would hope it also received the firmware update&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lil'battery has been tested OK by O'Reilly's and charged up just in&#xA;case  [Lil, it's the size of a powerwheel's battery, sheesh..]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be looking more into any corrosion on the Pos/Neg leads on their respective grounds, but they look ok at a glance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help at all would be appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14424" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T19:36:48.013" Title="2006 Honda Civic Hybrid - instrument panel lights going haywire" Tags="|honda|civic|hybrid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5917" CreationDate="2016-01-18T21:29:39.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your Alarm is going On after replacing Your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1 there is a code you need to enter into the FACTORY radio.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radio is part of the alarm system.&#xA;You must Pull the radio and Call Acura dealer/ Acura themselves. There is an 8 digit code that will give them the 5 digit code you will need to enter. (write it down on owners manual for future ref.)&#xA;turn Key to &amp;quot;ON&amp;quot; (not start)  position.&#xA;Hold the #1 and #6 buttons simultaneously and turn on radio.&#xA;It will ask for the 5 digit code . You will see &amp;quot;CODE&amp;quot; on screen enter it now.&#xA;This should turn off your alarm and reset the car.&#xA;If for some reason it does not repeat process. In my case it still would not reset the car even though the radio is now in FM radio display mode-functioning.&#xA;I quickly disconnected and reconnected the NEG BATT terminal and it reset the car.&#xA;Hope it helps anyone w/ this prob who still owns a 97 Acura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14396" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T21:29:39.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T21:44:45.530" Score="9" ViewCount="13961" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, Laramie SLT, automatic transmission, 5.9l magnum engine, and crew cab (222k mi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to have some head gasket leaks, as there is some coolant burning. I have only basic carpentry tools, nothing special and I would like to change the head gaskets. I'm looking for a step-by-step guide on how to replace them (as model specific as possible), and the tools/materials I need to do this, if in fact I can do it at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T12:32:00.023" Title="How do I go about replacing the head gaskets in my Dodge truck?" Tags="|engine|dodge|replace|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24950" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like a conventional piston engine with poppet valves (Otto cycle), Wankel engines operate on the four-stroke cycle (suck-squeeze-bang-blow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Wikimedia animation succinctly describes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wankel Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor seals off the air/fuel intake charge from the intake port, gradually compressing it until it is sufficiently compressed, at which point the spark plug ignites the mixtures, generating rotary motion which then carries the combustion gases towards the exhaust port and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some noteworthy characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;look mom, no valves!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means no need for cams, camshafts, timing belts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smooth power delivery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;due to the absence of reciprocating motion that is inherent to piston-engines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;oil needed for lubrication&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the oil is needed to lubricate the rotor and is mixed with the air/fuel intake charge, so the engine will by design consume oil at a faster rate than a well-designed piston engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24951" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" Score="0" Body="A rotary engine is a type of ICE." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:23:53.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24952" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like a conventional piston engine with poppet valves (Otto cycle), Wankel engines operate on the four-stroke cycle (suck-squeeze-bang-blow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Wikimedia animation succinctly describes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dvQ0C.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wankel Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor seals off the air/fuel intake charge from the intake port, gradually compressing it until it is sufficiently compressed, at which point the spark plug ignites the mixtures, generating rotary motion which then carries the combustion gases towards the exhaust port and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some noteworthy characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;look mom, no valves!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means no need for cams, camshafts, timing belts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smooth power delivery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;due to the absence of reciprocating motion that is inherent to piston-engines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;oil needed for lubrication&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the oil is needed to lubricate the rotor and is mixed with the air/fuel intake charge, so the engine will by design consume oil at a faster rate than a well-designed piston engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24953" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" Score="0" Body="The wankel or rotary engine is a type of ICE." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:24:51.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24931" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:37:38.780" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I owned a similar generation golf and I believe this is the intended function, I think it even mentions it in the manual somewhere. Not sure why they did it but you just have to remember to adjust the side that moves both first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:37:38.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24964" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:57:39.280" Score="8" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that when a car gets old it slowly but surely loses its horsepower to some degree. For example, I used to drive a 1997 Ford Fiesta with a 1.25L 1242cc engine that supposedly produces a whopping 74hp when it was brand new. When I used to drive it earlier this year, it seemed to lack a significant amount of the power that it claimed to have when it was new (although I didn't have any real basis for comparison).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would estimate that the car today has around 40hp, or possible a tad more. It can't have just fallen out! Where has it gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do old cars actually lose horsepower as they get older?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T18:10:31.117" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:10:31.117" Title="How do old cars actually lose horsepower?" Tags="|engine|ford|car|fiesta|horsepower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24962" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:00:53.067" Score="21" ViewCount="4563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard references to dry sumps, usually in reference to racing engines. But more recently I came across an article about a 'supercar' which stated that it had a dry sump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of a dry sump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a regular oiling arrangement be upgraded to one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T18:50:41.117" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:50:41.117" Title="What are the benefits of a dry sump?" Tags="|engine|oil|engine-theory|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24956" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:19:04.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per Wikipedia.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A dry sump offers many advantages.[1] The most obvious are increased oil capacity afforded by the remote reservoir, and the capability to mount the engine lower in the vehicle because of the lower sump profile—lowering the overall center of gravity. The external reservoir can also be relocated to another part of the car to improve weight distribution. Increased oil capacity by using a larger external reservoir than would be practical in a wet-sump system cools the oil more and releases entrained gasses from ring blow-by and the action of the crankshaft. Furthermore, dry-sump designs are not susceptible to the oil movement problems from high cornering forces that wet sump systems can suffer. In a wet sump, the force of the vehicle cornering can force the oil to one side of the oil pan, possibly uncovering the oil pump pickup tube and causing a loss of oil pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given enough time &amp;amp; money anything is possible. A bolt on kit will probably not be available for most cars on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:19:04.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24942" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:23:52.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil pumps are always mechanical pumps as they are &lt;strong&gt;cheaper to produce&lt;/strong&gt; than electrical pumps and &lt;strong&gt;more reliable&lt;/strong&gt; as they are driven directly by the crankshaft. A running engine needs sufficient lubrication. By using a directly connected mechanical pump only a few possibilities of a pump failure remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some cars are equipped with an &lt;strong&gt;additional electric oil pump&lt;/strong&gt;. They are used in cars equipped with a start-stop system or in hybrid cars to &lt;strong&gt;maintain oil pressure&lt;/strong&gt; during the periods when the engine is not running. &#xA;Electric oil pumps are also used in race cars to circulate the oil after the engine is stopped to prevent damage resulting from overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:23:52.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24956" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:24:56.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry sump oiling systems are primarily used in racing situations. The main purpose is it will provide oil pressure under any type of hi-G maneuvers, to include cornering, braking, and acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dry sump oiling system is made up of several parts. The reason why it is called a &quot;dry sump&quot; is because the sump, where in a normal engine is the reservoir for the oil pump to draw from, is kept relatively dry by a scavenge pump which is actually external of the engine. Here is what a typical dry sump system looks like (sans the hoses and reservoir):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyIeD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyIeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red part at the bottom is the pump. It is ran directly from the crankshaft via the belt. There are hoses which attach to the sump which scavenges the oil out of the pan (crankshaft area). The oil is then pumped into a reservoir where it sits until drawn upon by the pump (pressure side this time) to be shot back into the engine. Somewhere in there it goes through a filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any car could possibly be retrofit for a dry sump ... most cars would never see any benefit from it. Some engines come with them, such as the LS7 used in the Corvette and Camaro Z28. Most of the supercars use them. In most cases the costs involved to put one on a vehicle which doesn't have an aftermarket for such a thing would never see a return in the cost to benefit ratio, so it just doesn't make sense. If the car which it might be going into is used for autocross or drifting or some such, putting one in may be of benefit. Getting one fit for a vehicle is not cheap, so make sure you have the deep pockets before going that route, especially when a regular wet sump will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:24:56.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7847" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:25:40.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.  You should allow your engine to warm up a bit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature is exceedingly cold, say -10c, you would want to allow an extra minute or two to heat up and even out the temperature between components a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to start you car in extremely inclement conditions and raced it full throttle up a hill with high load there would be a potential for differing expansion rates of material.  The head gasket between the crankcase and the cylinder head could show weakness as the differing expansion expands one component a bit more than the other and over time weaken adhesion between the two surfaces resulting in a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another component of extreme cold is the thickening of oil.  As @Nick.c stated.  Thick oil can become an issue, it's difficult to pump and the majority of it's lubrication properties can be effected in extreme cold.  Allowing the oil to heat and the various components to heat up is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, since we are here, I would like to dispel some myth's about engine heating in the morning.  There is quite a bit of attribution that IMO is myth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would like to clarify a few points of interest&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several myths regarding why older engines are required to warm up slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carbureted engines needed to warm-up longer because of the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a carburetor on choke doesn't ruin your engine.  It will run rich. It can foul your spark plugs if it doesn't come off choke, it can build up a little extra carbon in your combustion chamber over the years but it will not damage your engine.  In fact, there are a lot of benefits to your engine when it runs richer.  The exhaust is cooler and it's easier on your exhaust valves and it lubricates the valve face impacting the valve seat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Allowing your car to warm up is a waste of fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what is called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man&quot;&gt;Straw Man&lt;/a&gt; argument.  The question was &lt;em&gt;&quot;How long should I let me car warm up in the winter?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;  The waste of fuel response is a legitimate environmental concern.  That is not what this is about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You don't have to warm up new engines they're made out of aluminum that was a procedure for old cast iron blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast iron blocks don't crack when run from cold.  False claim.  Where are the citations on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the engine first starts in cold weather, the oil is warming. The rings on the pistons are reseating, from being cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rings are reseating is not something that happens.  They are already seated and worn in from use.  Running the engine at idle and allowing it to warm will not reseat the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;your engine needs a chance to get the oil circulated through it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine has oil circulating in it almost immediately.  This does not take but a moment.  False claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Myth 6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The aluminum piston will expand quicker than the the steel cylinder liner and you would seize the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pistons are now made of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston&quot;&gt;hypereutectic alloy&lt;/a&gt;.  Hypereutectic alloy has a lower expansion coefficient of expansion which allows for tighter tolerances than previous materials.  There is point in mixing allows called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eutectic_system&quot;&gt;eutectic point&lt;/a&gt; where the mix of alloys becomes one and their lattice structures intertwine and they become 'one'.  Of course this is overly simplistic explanation for the sake of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, piston expansion is no longer an issue with modern vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:25:40.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24956" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:35:20.390" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;An addition to the previous answers: A limiting factor in car construction is the &lt;strong&gt;engine height&lt;/strong&gt;. Using a dry sump setup the engine gets smaller in height and can be located lower. This lowers the car's center of gravity resulting in a better track performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T22:24:23.207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T22:24:23.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24956" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:41:57.750" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of a dry sump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put a wet sump crankcase has oil sitting in the bottom of the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's affected by various forces as the car or motorcycle is driven.  At times it is possible, during hard braking or cornering, that the oil pickup is not in oil, resulting in a low or no oil pressure condition that could temporarily leave the engine without good oil pressure for lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO this would be rare, even under hard driving, on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By viewing the image below you can see how the oil sits at the bottom of the crankcase in a 'pool'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HVs1R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HVs1R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of car engine showing oil location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry sump&lt;/a&gt; engine will have a pickup along the bottom of the crankcase that oil typically will fall into thus scavenging all excess oil.  This oil is pumped into an oil tank where another pump will drive oil pressure into the ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is primarily for race application and some motorcycles.  Rotax has implemented this system with Aprilia.  The BMW Dakar Edition on/off road motorcycles have this feature whereas the standard edition of the motorcycle does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A motorcyclist can ride wheelies for miles, a Baja Desert Racer can jump their truck and drive through long off-camber turns at speed without worrying about loss of oil pressure and engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46a67.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46a67.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram showing operation of dry sump engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dry sump oil delivery ensures oil pressure to the engine in most all conditions and reduces risk regarding low oil pressure to the engine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T15:31:37.243" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:31:37.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24612" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:54:04.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be your...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Synchronizer rings&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern transmissions use synchronizer rings to make manual shifting possible without the need for double declutching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2sAQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2sAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Sincronizzatore&amp;quot; by A7N8X - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sincronizzatore.jpg#/media/File:Sincronizzatore.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each gear has its own synchronizer ring. These rings are subject to wear. If they are in bad condition gear synchronization doesn't work well and you have trouble putting in a certain gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:54:04.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24955" CreationDate="2016-01-19T00:06:27.077" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on a ton of things and it won't be linear in most cases. Every car has different things that wear out at different rates and those things affect horsepower differently as they age. Not everything that wears affects power. A coolant hose that wears out might cause the engine to overheat, but it won't affect power until then. But vacuum hoses can control things like turbos which might reduce power as the car fails to control boost and puts the car in some sort of safety mode to avoid catastrophe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things, like valve lash on solid lifter engines, will degrade over time but can be adjusted back to normal as part of regular maintenance. Poorly maintained brakes can drag and reduce power. Poorly maintained differentials and transmissions can lose power to friction. Poorly adjusted cam/crank sensors can affect timing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As rings and cylinder walls wear, it reduces cylinder sealing and&#xA;increases blowby, which reduces power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As camshafts wear, valves get less lift and/or duration, which&#xA;decreases power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your car is burning oil (either from worn rings or leaking valve seals/guides in the head), you can get a carbon crust behind exhaust&#xA;valves, which can hurt cylinder sealing, hurting power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaks in intercooler piping can hurt peformance on forced induction cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A filthy intercooler might not adequately cool the air entering the&#xA;engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clogged catalytic converter might choke off power as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn out plug wires or distributor or coils would reduce power as&#xA;ignition becomes inconsistent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit- The only sure way to spot power loss over time is to dyno the car periodically and see how much power it makes. It's hard to provide solid proof of power loss over time unless it's a large amount because cars make different power depending upon the prevailing conditions. So a particular car might dyno 230whp on one day and then make 235whp on another day. It might mean it's a cooler day or barometric pressure is better or the humidity has changed, or the dyno is calibrated slightly differently from one time period to another. That being said, if your car dynos 100whp one day and then makes 75 hp another day, that's probably a legitimate difference. You can use things like compression tests, leakdown tests, laboratory examination of oil and coolant, etc to diagnose why the car is down on power. If you've never dynoed your car before, it makes it a lot trickier unless your car is a car for which stock dyno figures are commonly available. For example, cars used in competition or commonly modded by hobbyists are likely to be extremely common (a fox body mustang, honda civic, mazda mx-5), while rarely modified or raced commuter cars are likely to be rare. You can still diagnose a loss of power even without dyno numbers, you just won't know for sure how much power you're down from the original figures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T15:48:26.170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:48:26.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2016-01-19T01:27:01.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left brake light was not working.  The brake light would come on when turning on headlights so I knew the bulb was good.  Bam!   Contact with the housing was the problem.  Manually pulled the small contact tabs out to make better connection.  Also swapped the right light for the left and they both worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14428" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T01:27:01.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16628" CreationDate="2016-01-19T01:45:24.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine coolant can leave the cooling system by different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Through a damaged &lt;strong&gt;hose&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Through a damaged &lt;strong&gt;radiator&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;reservoir&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Through a &lt;strong&gt;damaged head&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;head gasket&lt;/strong&gt;. In this case, white smoke (which is just steam) is coming out of the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is an Audi special: Through a damaged / worn-out &lt;strong&gt;coolant reservoir cap&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4tTU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Audi Coolant Reservoir Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap has a sealing which gets worn-out over time. The engine coolant is under pressure while the engine is hot. If the sealing doesn't work properly, small amounts of coolant leak through. &lt;em&gt;Unfortunately you can't see any stains from this&lt;/em&gt;. I suggest to change the cap and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T10:16:07.027" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T10:16:07.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24949" CreationDate="2016-01-19T02:38:57.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auto Zone's online vehicle repair guides can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp&quot;&gt;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to create an account, enter your vehicle and drill down. Curiously it's not found directly under &quot;Engine&quot; but once there, if you look in the left pane you'll see a bullet for &quot;Cylinder Head&quot;. A complete list of instructions and diagrams can be found if you click there and then scroll down. (It may take a few tries; not an intuitive interface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this link is account specific, but try this (once logged in); &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80394e5c&quot;&gt;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80394e5c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more diagrams and are willing to pay for it, there is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://alldatadiy.com&quot;&gt;http://alldatadiy.com&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T02:44:40.170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T02:44:40.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24972" CreationDate="2016-01-19T03:30:59.010" Score="4" ViewCount="16367" Body="&lt;p&gt;All engine specifications reflect a bore and stroke number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aprilia Tuono V4 R &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four stroke, longitudinal 65° V four , DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;998.9 cc / 60.96 cu in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bore x Stroke&#xA;78 x 52.3 mm&#xA;Compression Ratio&#xA;13.0:1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are characteristics of an engine that are reflected in the bore x stroke values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly is bore x stroke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do bore x stroke values effect efficiency in an engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it so important for engine manufacturers to reflect bore x stroke numbers in their promotion of a vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something about bore x stroke values that are important to consumers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:34:53.717" Title="What is meant by bore and stroke?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24969" CreationDate="2016-01-19T04:40:08.450" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stroke is length of stroke and bore is diameter.  Yes it matters in linear speed of cylinder.  Big block engines will go with really big bore as you get to a limit on stroke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So important?  It is just a facts about the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T04:40:08.450" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24937" CreationDate="2016-01-19T04:45:11.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are describing symptoms of a bad ground in your electrical system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your ground on the battery. The negative post.  Make sure you have a solid connection. The clamp on the negative shouldn't wiggle or have any play in it. Check for corrosion. The white powdery substance.  If you find any remove the battery post clamp from the wire and use baking soda mixed with water to clean the clamp, the post and the wire. Do the same with the positive side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the grounding wire from the battery to the chassis or engine and validate that it is secure and &lt;strong&gt;free of corrosion&lt;/strong&gt;.  Check the grounding bolt for corrosion and clean with baking soda solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the baking soda solution liberally in your efforts.  Validate secure connections for both sides of your battery negative wire (vehicle ground) and the positive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When are you are done using the baking soda solution rinse it off with water and dry.  Use an old disposable rag to do it, any remnants of battery acid will degrade the rag into tatters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T06:31:53.040" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T06:31:53.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24969" CreationDate="2016-01-19T05:16:57.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bore&lt;/strong&gt; is the diameter of each cylinder and &lt;strong&gt;stroke&lt;/strong&gt; is the length that it travels when moving from bottom position to the top position. Thus if the engine has 1 cylinder with bore x stroke of 78 x 52.3 mm it's total displacement will be: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2pK2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2pK2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Displacement formula&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;where π = 3.1416... and the bore and stroke must be in cm, thus divide them by 10 to get the right dimension. For your example it will be:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkCBC.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkCBC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Displacement example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines with the bore bigger than stroke (like your example) are called &lt;strong&gt;oversquare&lt;/strong&gt; engines, with the bore smaller than stroke are called &lt;strong&gt;undersquare&lt;/strong&gt; engines and exactly equal are called &lt;strong&gt;square&lt;/strong&gt; engines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Oversquare&lt;/strong&gt; engines allow bigger or multiple valves in the head and have less loss to friction due to the shorter stroke, but are only efficient at higher revs thus are more typical in high performance engines, like in your example for a sport bike. Bigger engines also have a larger bore even in trucks to limit the length of the stroke, thus limiting losses of the pistons rubbing the rings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Undersquare&lt;/strong&gt; engines allow for a better torque in low revolutions where the longer stroke will not affect performance so much but the fuel burn will be more efficient due to the lower volume when the air/fuel mixture is compressed, leading also to lower fuel consumption. Diesel engines also are massively undersquare engines (typically around 3:1 ratio) since those engines have a very high compression ratio compared to gas engines (around 22:1 ratio).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A long time ago the tax on cars in England was applied proportional to the bore size, thus even high performance cars like Jaguars had unusual long strokes to allow a high displacement while still paying lower taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO many other factors will dictate the performance and fuel consumption of the engine, thus only looking at the bore x stroke ratio is meaningless, yet by rule of thumb you can say that big bore gives you higher performance at high revs and long stroke gives you lower fuel consumption at everyday usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T18:34:53.717" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:34:53.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24947" CreationDate="2016-01-19T06:47:29.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research regarding your symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you I was a Honda MC mechanic and have NEVER worked on a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since this space is blank I'll fill it with what I discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the posts I could find point to your main battery having an issue.  Is that the battery you had checked at the auto parts store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at the connections to the battery as well as the batter itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/406/how-do-i-test-my-car-battery&quot;&gt;Here is a post on checking/testing your main battery with a multimeter.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything I found with your systems had resolution with a main battery replacement.  Mind you, I'm not telling you to do that so much as I'm trying see if there are a couple of breadcrumbs for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also validate that you have a good ground off of your batter and check the lead to your negative and make sure it has a solid connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T06:47:29.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24853" CreationDate="2016-01-19T07:06:35.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your parking brake has a return spring.  You should be able to goto a local auto parts store to get that and the arm replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend you find another mechanic as most of this information is available on the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dmXX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8dmXX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T07:06:35.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21355" CreationDate="2016-01-19T07:25:48.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has to get HOT.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you seem to know and elude to by asking if sitting and idling at a higher RPM could resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is fit can you just drive it in a lower gear at a higher RPM?  Not savagly high like a teenager but reasonably high.  If you would be in 5th on the freeway can you drive it in 4th?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some DPF's can get seriously clogged up with lots of short drives and not a lot of long running.  I recently drove a friends on the freeway with him for about 30 minutes in a lower gear and upon our return his idling issue completely went away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T22:27:49.407" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T22:27:49.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23763" CreationDate="2016-01-19T09:07:12.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go to an automotive store in your place to study from them. They are professional, it's better to learn from them than you learn it on your won. I think it's a good way!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14430" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T09:07:12.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T09:25:28.780" Score="4" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently Purchased Vehicle @milage 81.075 in the past vehicle has consumed 5.25 Litres of oil a full oil composition test was carried by my Garage. They also advise it is an uneconomical repair it has no oil leaks the oil is going out&#xA;via the catalytic converter the car sales agents said they would do an engine compression test by one of their Sales People I Instructed my Garage to do one&#xA;on my behalf the report is as follows on a DRY Test on &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cyl One 175&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyl TWO 110&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cyl Three 110 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cyl Four 120 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please Advise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T23:46:30.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:48:23.627" Title="Toyota corolla verso 1.794 petrol vvt-1-t2" Tags="|engine|toyota|oil|corolla|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-07T06:59:23.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T09:25:50.620" Score="5" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an online customer service selling automotive diagnostic tools. Now I have a question, I came to my company since last October. I don't know much about our product, even though I am just a customer service and we have professional technical support. But I want to know more about our product and I believe I can get more customers by learning them. Do you have any idea about how to realize my goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14430" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:10:19.627" Title="Advice on learning automotive repair knowledge" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24448" CreationDate="2016-01-19T10:00:53.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) From an electrical perspective, you always connect negative of charger to negative of battery. The closer the better (i.e. put the clips directly on the battery) to avoid losses and heating in the wiring of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check for this put your voltmeter across the battery when you are charging, then put it across the output of the charger. Any difference is lost in the wiring. A voltage under about 13.2V at the battery means either your battery is just about dead, or very little charging is taking place. Reading the amps going out the charger will also reveal much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. watts in = volts @ charger&lt;em&gt;amps at the charger&#xA;     watts into battery = volts@battery&lt;/em&gt;amps @ battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; difference = lost power == heat&#xA; losses are either in the wiring, or are being used by some electrics in the car. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Always do this in a well ventilated place, preferably away from the car and other flammables. Hydrogen, Oxygen and combustables (e.g. your house) are not your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Observe basic safety precautions - open battery breathers (if present), fire extinguisher, circuit breakers, equipment fuses, gloves, eye protection etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Hydrogen build up is mainly due to electrolysis that takes place at the electrodes as part of the charging process. It doesn't happen when you are driving because the vibration loosens the hydrogen and oxygen bubbles from the plates all the time. In the static 'charging' situation this doesn't happen - so you can do it by lifting a corner of the battery about 10mm (1/2 inch) and dropping it about every 1/2 hour. You will hear the bubbles coming to the surface. If you are in a well ventilated area, all is well. If you are smoking you may singe your eyelashes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) You are more likely to have a spark ignite hydrogen at the end of the charge process than at the beginning (see above). Switch the charger off at the wall and wait for everything to settle before removing the leads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Attaching the leads is more tricky since you will get a spark either way round - either the residual battery charge feeds the charger(if the charger is off), or the charger feeds the battery and sparks (the charger is on, battery voltage is low). Either is sufficient. There is no substitute for doing what you can to get rid of these naughty gasses - ventilation, vibration, time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car I had in the 60's - I think it was an original mini or Beetle actually had positive battery terminal to chassis. Blindly connecting charger negative to chassis and positive to either pole of the battery would have caused problems (read fire, smoke, brokenness) in the charger, battery or car - especially in the old equipment we used back then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery to chassis connection is poor, the car will not start anyway since much of its power will go into the bad connection rather than the starter motor. This place will get hot and burn you or the car or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We old timers chuckle at the safety precautions that are so often taken to ridiculous lengths - until someone loses a house, car and perhaps life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only then do we understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14245" LastEditorUserId="14245" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T14:29:56.867" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:29:56.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T10:54:08.883" Score="9" ViewCount="4028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully connected a terminal android app to the obd port of my car. And tried dry run of many at commands, many are working as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ATMA (AT command to Monitor All) is not responding. Trying to view all the can communication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever this command is sent via terminal app, the response provided is OK and then again prompt for next command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thing i am missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit1-&#xA;car is ford figo diesel model, connected to ELM327 using this &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ges.bluetooth.hyperterminal&amp;amp;hl=en&quot;&gt;app&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastEditorUserId="14433" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T11:00:23.150" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:56:42.487" Title="ATMA on OBDII not Working" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|elm-327|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:14:32.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had the same problem with my 2005 Holden Astra ended up being the flash cam you can fix it if you take it out pullout the inside and just clean out the points you got contact points to make a clicking sound and clean them out and put it back in and should work if not buy new flash cam you can tell this is the problem because when you pull it out  you won't have any indicators and the emergency flashing light will work only on the inside of the car not  the outside &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14434" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T11:14:32.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23701" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:26:41.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case replacing the fuel filter for new seems to have done the trick. I was able to find one for roughly £27 on eBay and fitted it myself in under 45 minutes. Thought I'd leave the information here in case anyone else has the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13366" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T11:26:41.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24638" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:45:44.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics are quite simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor generates a certain torque &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; and a certain power &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; at a given RPM. Further more, the relation between power and torque is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P = C * N * RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; is a constant to convert all that odd units. For &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; in SI units, it is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;C = pi / 30&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neglecting any losses, Power is conserved from the motor to the wheels so you can say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;C * N_motor * RPM_motor = C* N_wheel * RPM_wheel&#xA;&#xA;N_wheel = N_motor * RPM_motor / RPM_wheel &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RPM of the wheel can easily be derived from speed and the &lt;em&gt;rolling&lt;/em&gt; circumference of the wheel &lt;code&gt;R_wheel&lt;/code&gt;. (Keep in mind, the rolling circumference is smaller than the geometrical circumference, as the tire is flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are more interested in the tractive force &lt;code&gt;F_wheel&lt;/code&gt;, it is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;N_wheel = F_wheel * R_wheel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;F_wheel = N_motor * RPM_motor / (RPM_wheel * R_wheel)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's also &lt;code&gt;v = pi * RPM_wheel * R_wheel / 30&lt;/code&gt; (velocity in m/s) you can write&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;F_wheel = N_motor * RPM_motor * pi / (v * 30)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, if you really have the torque the motor currently delivers, the RPM of the motor and the speed of the truck, you can calculate the total force applied to the street.&#xA;It's strange that gear ratios don't appear, but they are hidden in the ratio &lt;code&gt;RPM_motor / RPM_wheel&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;RPM_motor / v&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, there are lots of non neglible losses, as Paulster2 wrote in his comment. &#xA;Every bearing and every gear wheel has some friction, taking away some torque and power. If this torque is constant, the power loss will be linear to the RPM of this part, but usually, torque will increase with RPM, so the power loss grows even faster with RPM.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This means the loss is not constant, it varies with RPM and gear!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One interesting fact: A clutch transfers power / torque by friction. For a slipping clutch, torque is the same on both shafts, but power is lost due to the difference in RPM...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to make it clear again: You &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; need the &lt;em&gt;measured&lt;/em&gt; torque from the motor, max torque at given RPM is not what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T11:45:44.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24930" CreationDate="2016-01-19T12:31:13.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends - If your car is a second hand one it might need replacement. I used to own a Nissan Micra, and the battery was wiped out due to a similar accidental leaving of keys in the car with the lights on. The Micra's battery was never the same after that - already not brilliant at holding charge, leaving it to go flat was the nail in the coffin that killed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charge it fully as @JPHi1618 suggests, observe the battery for the next few weeks, and if you notice a severe deterioration in performance you'll probably need a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T12:31:13.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24949" CreationDate="2016-01-19T12:32:00.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really a complicated job, but it needs a bit of care and attention. This is more of a general guide, as I don't know the details of the Ram engine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic Socket set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clicking Torque wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Workshop manual for your truck (mainly for the torque wrench settings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assorted spanners, screwdrivers etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by draining the coolant - save it and dispose of it properly, don't let it leak into watercourses or onto the ground, especially if you have pets, as it's toxic to animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the upper cooling hoses. Remove the serpentine/alternator/fan belt(s). Remove the valve cover(s) and cambelt/chain covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect electronic sensors, spark plug leads and fuel lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock the crankshaft in position (again, the manual should specify how for your engine), and mark the positions of it, the camshaft and the belt/chain. Remove the cambelt/chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove intake and exhaust manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-check that there's nothing left attached to the head(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slacken the head-bolts in the order specified by the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the head bolts, then lift the head straight off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the head(s) to a machine shop and get them checked for flatness. Clean off the old headgasket from the block. If it's a wet-liner engine, be very careful not to disturb the liners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refitting is then the reverse of removal. Make sure the camshaft is aligned with the marks you made before fitting the head. Use new head-bolts, and tighten them  in the order specified by the manual - this will often be an odd sequence involving tightening to a certain torque, then going round again to a tighter torque, and often going round again turning an extra 1/4 turn or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check and double check the timing as you refit the belt/chain. Turn it by hand a couple of turns and make sure the marks still align. Refit the rest of the stuff. Check it all again, and refill the coolant. Start the engine, and let it warm up to temperature, checking frequently for anything amiss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to re-tighten the head bolts after a certain mileage, but again the manual should specify that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T12:32:00.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24930" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:48:01.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reasonable answer depends on how old the battery is. The expected lifespan of a lead acid battery is about 4 years. If your battery is nearing or over the 4 year mark, it would make sense to replace the battery as part of your standard maintenance cycle anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it on a slow charge overnight / over a day wouldn't be a bad idea, at any rate, even if you're over the 4 year mark... might as well try and eke out as much life from the battery as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:48:01.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24981" CreationDate="2016-01-19T13:56:42.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you set the protocol for the chip to monitor on? e.g. ATSP5 for KWP-2000 or ATSP0 for &quot;best guess&quot;. What about checking the headers as well - ATH1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the following string of commands to monitor my full KWP bus, which is obviously different from CAN, but is similar enough that it might be of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATI&lt;/code&gt; -- check connection from app to scan tool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATH1&lt;/code&gt; -- Print headers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATAL&lt;/code&gt; -- Allow &quot;long&quot; messages ( &gt; 7 bytes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATSP0&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;ATSPX&lt;/code&gt;, where X is the protocol number) -- Sets the protocol. 0 is &quot;guess&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATMA&lt;/code&gt; -- Monitor all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have also bought a clone of the ELM327 chip - I have found, from personal experience, that a lot of the cheap clones do not offer the full command set. It would have to be a very very bad clone for it not to suppose ATMA!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T13:56:42.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24979" CreationDate="2016-01-19T14:10:19.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all , its very smart of you to trying to learn the domain knowledge of your profession you can do the following to improve your automotive knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Browse a lot , the real advice would be crank a lot but since you are behind the desk job I am assuming you will have hard time to actually work on a car or vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn what is required, this might seem contradictory to what you are trying to do but i would suggest leaving the serious stuff to the technicians, you can analyse the frequent tickets or questions you get on your particular product and then learn more on them so that you can sort out the very small issues without going for the techs guys. Remember, the only thing worse that no information is wrong information. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you are part of the automotive diagnostic company you can learn about the various error codes and why they are thrown since that is what the scanner pretty much does.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you could learn about the ECM and how to connect your scanner to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest learning about the vehicle is a very long and gradual process which cannot be done by reading a book ,secondly I think if your company is not providing your knowledge of what you are selling then there is something wrong right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:10:19.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24992" CreationDate="2016-01-19T14:23:38.843" Score="6" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have a Mercedes-Benz, A140 W168. I moved to Finland about 18ish months ago which is when we bought the car 2nd hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last winter temperatures only went down to around -15C (5F) degrees, and while the car took a bit more effort to start it worked every day, even without plugging in the block heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year however, weather is getting a lot colder, down to -28C in the morning (-18F). Cars of my friends still start fine or with some difficulty (but still start) without block heaters, of course it is advised to plug it in. &#xA;My car however, doesn't seem to do anything but light up the dashboard.&#xA;Turning the ignition key all the way produced a few clicks but nothing more, after a few times there weren't even clicks anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it doesn't seem like the block heater is doing anything at all. First I thought the timer had broken (I set it in the evening so it runs for about 1.5-2h before I leave for work). &#xA;Then I tried twice just plugging in the block heater from the wall plug to the front of the car, coming back 2 hours later with no noticeable heat to find under the motor hood (I just felt around with my hands). I also read that you are supposed to hear a silent sizzling sound when it is plugged in, couldn't hear this either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the weather warmed up a bit (-18C, 0F), I had a friend come over with his car and we managed to successfully jump-start my car by connecting his battery to mine and after leaving it for a minute or so with his motor running. I then drove around for over an hour and then successfully stopped and started at a gas station and then the supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left it over the weekend for 2 days and tried starting with the same result as before, no noticeable heat on the block heater, no clicks at all, dashboard lit up and all the lights work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my questions are..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the problem really just the temperature of the motor? Other&#xA;people's cars seem to start fine while mine doesn't even make a&#xA;squeak. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possibly a fault also in the battery? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How difficult/expensive is it to fix or replace the block heater?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any troubleshooting I can do from home? (I have minimal equipment and experience, I can just about replace fuses and the tires...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to continue now except for calling a mechanic and have him come over to look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14437" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T14:44:56.347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:57:10.137" Title="Trouble starting car, cold weather. MB A140 W168" Tags="|battery|starting|mercedes-benz|cold-start|block-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24945" CreationDate="2016-01-19T14:25:14.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First of all check the carburettor.&#xA;If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the Air filter: if the air filter is blocked then you will encounter similar issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above two are very easy and basic checks which can be performed by a road side mechanic or by yourself. Should not cost much including labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case your vehicle is still stalling after all this then I would suggest taking it to a proper mechanic and getting it serviced. As for my experience with scooters , they dont cost much in my country (India) to get serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if its a 4 stroke scooter then there are chances of the choke not being there in the vehicle , some scooters dont have chokes, mine had one but I have seen without chokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T15:06:46.473" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:06:46.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24990" CreationDate="2016-01-19T14:57:10.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car battery's power will drop with temperature. It would be my first port of call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the car ran fine when you had it jumpstarted with the help of your friend, I would have the battery tested to make sure that it can deliver sufficient juice to the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T14:57:10.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24945" CreationDate="2016-01-19T15:41:57.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the most probable cause for this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the most general terms, the engine isn't running because there is either too much air or too much fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it true that petrol may &amp;quot;become old&amp;quot; after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible, especially if the fuel didn't have good-quality stabilizing additives in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How high is the difficulty to repair this (clean anything inside, change spark plug) or do I need a garage for that?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on what the problem turns out to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anybody know where I can get a service manual for that model?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google is not likely to help you since its services are not permitted in China. The source for such information is also unlikely to be readily available outside of China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:41:57.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:49:51.147" Score="8" ViewCount="98643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to charge the battery on my 2002 Celica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery is a bit old, around 3 years or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corrosion has been building on the battery to the point that it&#xA;almost cannot get a jump due to damaging the terminal on the negative&#xA;side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car makes a ticking sound on startup. Ticks 4 times rapidly.&#xA;Sometimes will also set off the horn alarm as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few winters ago, it did the same thing. Turned out it just needed a good jump. However, now it seems that it cannot start period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I charge it, it will make a clicking sound that repeats a few times, then stops eventually. I've been told this could be the solenoid. However, it might also be the battery not putting enough juice to start the solenoid, as that was the case a few years ago when my car did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research and have determined it is one of two things:&#xA;1. A bad battery. Duh.&#xA;2. A bad solenoid. This would explain the tick tick tick at the startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be the corrosion causing the battery to not charge fully needing a new terminal. However, might as well get a whole new battery if I'm getting a new terminal, yknow? If corrosion is building, then the battery is either dead or on its way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, based on the above, what would you suggest I do? I'm about to head to Auto Zone to get a new battery. Is there anything else you guys would look into to get a handle on the situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14440" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T22:27:42.593" Title="Corrosion on battery, won't start, making clicking noise, won't charge" Tags="|battery|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24994" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:08:37.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be caused by multiple things, the most likely case would be a bad battery in need of replacement.  However before coming to that conclusion there are a few things which can be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your battery terminals are in good working order and are not grounding out any where make sure they are insulated and not cracked and touching metal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try removing the corrosion from you battery, remove the terminals and mix baking soda and water to help erode the corrosion from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An indication of a bad solenoid is usually when you turn the key and get only a single click and the engine does not turn over, so that is unlikely to be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:08:37.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:40:03.777" Score="4" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 44k miles 1.6 TDi after&#xA; a 2m down hill drive from cold and stopped at lights began to smoke - burning the oil smell which lasted fo several miles.Engine has now apparently returned to normal.&#xA;Any ideas why the happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14442" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:40:03.777" Title="VW Golf TDi smoke" Tags="|vw|tdi|smoke|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-07-26T14:59:05.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25000" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:02:35.960" Score="6" ViewCount="6615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be replacing the CV boots on my axles pretty soon and was wondering what the best way to clean the old grease off is.  Are there any common solvents that would be useful, or are just a bunch of old throw away rags all I need?  I'd like to do it as cleanly and quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:20:55.023" Title="Best Way to Clean CV Joints of Old Grease" Tags="|cleaning|axle|cv-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25009" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:05:01.790" Score="4" ViewCount="7518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be replacing my CV boots soon and was planning to clean out all the old grease and put in new grease.  Should I pack the whole thing full of grease, including the boot, or is just packing the joint / bearing itself sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:28:16.213" Title="How Much Grease to Put into the CV joint?" Tags="|axle|cv-joint|cv-boot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25027" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:08:33.137" Score="5" ViewCount="5008" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was pointed out to me that if you do two back to back runs of the same car on the same dyno the graph of the results will be different. Also, if you run the exact same car on two different dynos the results will not match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why are the results different in each scenario?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How precise are the results obtained from a dyno (i.e. what is the margin of error)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; Thanks to the tag at the bottom, I realised that a dyno is short for a dynamometer (which is defined as a device that measures horsepower and torque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T23:56:56.957" Title="How accurate and precise is a dyno and why?" Tags="|dynamometer|horsepower|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24997" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:20:55.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean off the bulk of the grease with rags, then dump them in a bucket of solvent (gas, kerosene, parts cleaner, mineral spirits). Seafoam or brake cleaner also work, but they're more expensive. Let them sit for a bit, then pull them out, wipe them clean with another rag, re-grease and reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:20:55.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:35:45.430" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly want to understand the running of an adv tourer. &#xA;1) what is the basic difference between the showa suspensions,WP suspensions and an upside down fork? &#xA;Advantages &amp;amp; disadvantages of the three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Why dont adv tourers come with alloys but spoke wheels? Aren't alloys much advanced and stronger? I have read that spoke wheels handle the dirt better, so if i have spoke wheels does that mean iam compromising the same for on-road (highway) purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)How do the suspension adjustments work (adjustable upside down fork)? How do i know what kind of adjustment i would need for a given situation? What is the kind of maintenance do these suspensions demand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14429" LastEditorUserId="14429" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T08:39:48.930" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T08:39:48.930" Title="The critical components that define an Adv tourer from other motorcycles" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|ktm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-19T19:50:51.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24994" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:46:18.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starter/Solenoid: The starter spins your motor up, the solenoid pushes the Starter &amp;amp; Engine gears into contact during starting.  Sometimes things get sticky from corrosion or dirt inside the Starter/Solenoid and you'll hear a click or two when you try to crank.  Solution: Find your starter and give it a couple of soft to medium TAPS with a hammer (bonus points for using a deadblow hammer) and try starting it again.  I can't count how many times I've saved myself from jumping a stranger's vehicle by just tapping on the starter.  Its magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternator: When this goes bad your battery goes empty eventually, either drive to a Car Parts shop that will test your alternator and/or battery in the parking lot or you can DIY it by removing your terminals / corrosion crust and re-charging the battery.  The charged battery should get you started (give the starter a couple taps before starting if its still clicking), if the fresh battery doesn't get you started your battery could be bad.  Drive the car normally, close to home or with a support vehicle in case it dies again.  If the battery dies again quickly your alternator is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery: After all that, you've pretty much narrowed down a bad battery.  I like to get them tested as a second opinion before buying a new battery, but you've pretty much narrowed it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14444" LastEditorUserId="14444" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T22:20:34.503" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:20:34.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23606" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:46:34.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its always good to warm up a engine before a throttle -away -to glory. I keep my ktm idling for 2 mins and then constant throttle at lower gears when i start off i dont ride it above 50kmph for the first 10 mins. I keep it in 3rd gear. And once optimum engine temperature is acheived i resume natural riding. This has worked for me. &#xA;Also, if u r into an habit of shutting of bike the moment u stop, then just leave him idling for a couple of seconds so that the cycle is disinteruppted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14429" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:46:34.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:48:50.110" Score="1" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a small accident and I hit the whole front of my car and the radiator was damage.  I took it to my friends mechanic (which i though i could trust) and asked for an estimate. He owes a Bodyshop and knowing my situation he complied to fix the damage for a cost of $2000.  At first i though it was too much but since i needed my car for school i had to do it asap.&#xA;It took him 2 weeks to get back at me and told me the car was ready for pick up.&#xA;I went to pick up the car in the morning, and his brother was there and gave me a receipt and the keys to my car and verbally told me my car was ready to go.  On my way home i start noticing that my engine was making this funny noise.  About 5 miles or so my car breaks down, and the coolant gauge starts to signalize that its over heating. (keep in mind i was strangled in the middle of the Turnpike).  I called the mechanic and he told me he was on his way to check out my car and see what the problem seems to be.  As he arrives i notice he is holding a gallon of Coolant.  He opens my hood and without checking anything he begins to fill out my radiator. (how odd was that)  HE tells me that i should be ok now.. . As i leave maybe 2 miles later on my car shuts down again and this time it doesn't even respond at all.  I had to call AAA to come pick me up but since i was in a parkway they couldnt go in to get me so i had to spend money on a tow truck (not to make it long ) the following day i called the guy and he is not been reasonable to fix the damage.  And he keeps saying that he is a bodyshop not a mechanic. But yet he replaced my radiator.&#xA;i dont know wat to do at this point but im very angry that he doesnt wanna come clean and help me resolve this issue.  what can i do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:48:50.110" Title="My mechanic forgot to put Coolant and now my car is not work! what can i do? or who should i blame" Tags="|engine|toyota|maintenance|coolant|scion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-19T19:43:48.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24994" CreationDate="2016-01-19T18:53:52.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repeated clicking is a result of not enough power making it to the starter. Your battery either has a bad connection, or is too weak to turn the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery Connection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem may be entirely due to a bad connection. Starters draw a lot of amps, and batteries are weaker in cold temperatures. I'd start by fully exposing the terminals. You want to get the entire pole down to bare metal. No rust, no oxidation; nothing but metal. Get a good battery terminal wire brush and really clean other things off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llJrl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llJrl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, clean the INSIDES of the clamp. There will usually be a brush found inside of the terminal cleaner brush (see above) that you can use get up inside of the clamp. Again, you want no visible rust or corrosion. The goal is metal on metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-attach the terminals, and tighten them securely. You should not be able to spin the terminal on the pole. Attach positive (+) first, then negative (-). If this worked well, you'll see a small spark; the two metal pieces should now be conducting very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, applying a wash of baking soda and water to the terminals will also help clear debris. I've personally never tried this, but others have mentioned that they use the technique frequently to neutralize the acid and corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Still hearing clicking?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've cleaned everything thoroughly, your battery is most likely shot. Take it to any number of places (Advance/Pep Boys/AutoZone) and ask them to test it. If it fails, pick up a new battery. But ask yourself why it failed. Is it because it wasn't being charged properly? It's entirely possible that your charging system has an issue, or that the poor connection contributed to the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T19:03:26.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T19:03:26.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25015" CreationDate="2016-01-19T19:09:42.883" Score="8" ViewCount="17335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the European manufacturers of cars and motorcycles publish their ICE power numbers to reflect kW rather than HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a reason for this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the conversion for kW to HP?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T03:04:54.787" Title="Conversion from kW to HP?" Tags="|engine-theory|conversion|horsepower|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25006" CreationDate="2016-01-19T19:25:53.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are just different units of measurement, kW is metric which is widely adopted in Europe so that is probably why they choose to publish their numbers in this unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 kW is about 1.34 hp, the inverse relation gives 1hp as about 0.75 kW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T19:25:53.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2016-01-19T19:34:00.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The length of a line you measure is only as accurate as the rule you use to measure it with, a similar principal applies here. Essentially a dynamometer works by measuring the acceleration applied to a mass, from this it can calculate the torque which was applied. Each of the measurements and calculations performed will have an associated margin of error which get compounded together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start to consider the many variables (which as hard as you try you will find impossible to make constant) which impact the performance of your engine (and in fact the whole drive train) at any specific moment (think air flow/temperature, fuel quality, etc) then you can quickly see how it is very unlikely that you will see two identical readings from the same dyno, let alone different ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T19:34:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24998" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:01:11.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no grease in the boot.  The CV joint casing doesn't need packing fully with grease.  Pack enough in to cover all the moving parts.  If a sachet of grease is included in the kit, then there usually is enough for one joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T20:28:16.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:28:16.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25021" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:12:47.963" Score="9" ViewCount="12290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the last 3 month, our 2005 Honda Odyssey has had a whining steering pump. Here's a bit of the background, from the day that it started until present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day in mid-October: Get a call from my other half, the car's making a loud noise. Diagnose it over the phone as the steering pump. Wife confirms puddle under the car. She'd only driven the car around the block. Call a mechanic ~5 miles away, they can get her in immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$300 later, garage has replaced a line running from the reservoir down to ...somewhere. I regret not getting a specific part number at the time, and if potential answerers deem it important, I'll call up the shop and find out exactly what was replaced. Noise is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....for about two days. I call up the garage: &quot;it's back&quot;. They bring it in, clean it all up (to be sure that there is no leak in the future), bleed all of the air, and give it back to us. Noise is gone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...for about two days. We noticed that it gradually returns, as air is making it back into the system. Again, we take it back to the shop. They confirm that everything is still nice and clean, ruling out a fluid leak. Fluid is still topped off. At this point, the shop tells me that I need to replace the pump, and that it was probably damaged during the initial failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air is clearly entering the system, with no fluid leak at all. Apparently this can happen, but I'm reluctant to throw money at a pump that may not be the issue. In the back of my head, I'm wondering whether the new part that was installed has an issue. The garage is clearly baffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they put a new pump in place, and the issue is still present, I might then be able to introduce the concept their initial part was faulty. They may, or may not accept this, and it may not be correct anyway. The shop is clearly not being malicious, but if they have no new ideas, is there a point in going back anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anxious to hear if anybody has an idea of what could be the actual issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;@DucatiKiller This seems to sing your problems song &lt;em&gt;(youtube video link)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I probably should have included info about that, on the question, too. After I took the car back to the shop the second time, I went googling and found that video. When I talked to the shop the third time, I specifically asked them about the O-ring. They seemed to already know what I was talking about, and said that it was &quot;one of the first things that they looked for.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T21:09:04.483" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T17:00:43.710" Title="Steering Pump whining; no fluid loss" Tags="|honda|power-steering|odyssey|pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:24:41.113" Score="8" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are glow plugs supposed to stay on after the engine has started to help with the firing of the first few revolutions?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14451" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T20:25:47.943" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T17:36:45.750" Title="Proper glow plug operation" Tags="|engine|diesel|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23564" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:34:10.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the coolant is full, I'd take a look at the heater core &amp;amp; hoses. When the engine is up to temperature, both hoses should be roughly the same temperature. If one is cold and the other hot you can try flushing the heater core with a garden hose. A shop would be able to do a high pressure/chemical  flush if the garden hose method fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:34:10.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:35:51.493" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nissan Altima shuts off while waiting at a light. While driving at above 45mph it hesitates/jerks. Engine light has turned on only once and gave error code for cylinder#2 it has since not turned on when it shuts off. Any solutions or causes as to what this may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:35:51.493" Title="2005 Altima Shuts off while stopped, starts back up" Tags="|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-08T15:19:45.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25006" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:38:47.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has this nice table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;               PS          hp          kW&#xA;1 PS     =     1           0.98632     0.735499&#xA;1 hp     =     1.01387     1           0.74570&#xA;1 kW     =     1.35962     1.34102     1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this are all different measures of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS an hp are both a measure of the power of a horse, though it's obviously not clear how to define it. It was somehow estimated by James Watt who wanted to compare horses with his steam engines, i.e. how many horses a steam engine can replace... He finally defined that a horse has a power of  33,000ft*lbf/min, which he called 1HP. So, a HP is even not based on any imperial units...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Germans didn't like imperial units and searched for a more SI-unit based re-definition, which they found with this: 1PS (Pferdestärke, literally &lt;em&gt;horse strength&lt;/em&gt;) is the power needed to lift 75kg by 1 meter within 1 second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the difference between PS and HP is more or less negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be about the situation about the PS:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;PS isn't an official unit for power since 1978 in Germany any more. It has to be written together with the value in kW, and since 2010, the kW value must be more emphasized than the PS value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But though officially kW is the only valid unit, everybody is still talking about PS here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ah, and by the way: PS and HP are not the only units for power. Sometimes, they don't differ in definition, but in test conditions for the car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T21:03:20.847" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T21:03:20.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:49:05.853" Score="4" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Vw Jetta 2.5l. On the way to work this morning I stopped at a stop sign and when I took off I heard a clunk and had to coast off the road. It is an automatic transmission and I can put it into any gear R, D, Sport and it will not move just revs up. It will not engage in any of them. Anyone know the issue? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14454" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:49:05.853" Title="2008 Vw Jetta won't move? Transmission issue!! Help" Tags="|transmission|vw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-21T04:51:56.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25006" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:49:58.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's like asking why do certain countries drive on the left side of the road and other on the right side?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;kW is part of the SI system of units. Horsepower is a legacy from the imperial units system.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;kW stands for kilo-watt - a measure of power, or energy per unit time, named after the Scottish inventor, James Watt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hp is horsepower. Ironically, it was James Watt (whose name is used to define power in the metric system) who played an important role in defining the quantity of power a horse could provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be wonderful if everyone could use SI/metric units because they do away with all sorts of arbitrary conversion factors. My favorite example is the US gallon, which holds &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 231 in³. No more, no less, no discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to get regions to change the unit norms that they have been used to for so long, which is why both remain both prevalent and relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:49:58.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25025" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:59:34.503" Score="14" ViewCount="70131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, someone suggested that I apply some vaseline to an O-ring connection to see if I can find a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that oil-based lubricants, especially vaseline, can desolve rubber.&#xA;It seems like a bad idea to do this. Does vaseline (or any other oil-based lubricant) inherently degrade/desolve rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that neoprene o-rings are used in special places (like an A/C line) where oil is going to be present, just for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T21:17:56.473" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T21:14:54.550" Title="Does Vaseline dissolve rubber?" Tags="|oil|lubrication|seal|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24926" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:07:20.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is low cylinder compression, either due to gases getting passed the piston rings or passed poorly seating valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If gasses are getting passed the rings, this could possibly be detected by removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running, if you then put your hand over the filler and feel a large volume of gas being blown out of the filler, you likely have worn piston rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T21:07:20.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:14:52.353" Score="11" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot;&gt;OBD-II&lt;/a&gt; is ancient&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It predates the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_911_GT1&quot;&gt;Porsche 911 GT1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_95&quot;&gt;Windows 95&lt;/a&gt; and implementation of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schengen_Agreement&quot;&gt;Schengen Agreement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have thought that SAE would be working to add more diagnostic coverage for features that are virtually essential to most passenger vehicles today, such as ABS, airbags and traction control, but can't seem to find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://lobby.la.psu.edu/_107th/093_obd_service_info/organizational_statements/sema/sema_obd_frequent_questions.htm&quot;&gt;OBD-III&lt;/a&gt;, but my limited research suggests that it seems to do nothing to enhance the diagnostic capabilities that are present in OBD-II today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are there plans afoot for something that can improve the diagnostic standards across the industry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T01:51:48.520" Title="Are there any plans to update OBD-II?" Tags="|obd-ii|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25010" CreationDate="2016-01-19T21:36:38.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reseal the pump inlet fitting. It lets air in here but will leak very little or no fluid out. It is a short plastic fitting with an o-ring seal on the pump end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the unlikely case that this does not resolve the symptom, next replace the inlet hose. If it is still doing it after that then reseal the pump. Honda sells all the parts to reseal the pump; the pumps rarely wear out.  We have fixed dozens of these and the inlet seal is usually all it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T21:36:38.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2016-01-19T22:04:58.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;BSFC is just engineer-speak for how much fuel is consumed by the engine per unit of energy output&lt;/em&gt;¹.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynomitedynamometer.com/dyno-tech-talk/using_bsfc.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This webpage&lt;/a&gt; provides a very concise comparison for several different engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+------------------------------------------+----------+----------------+-----------+&#xA;|                  Engine                  | @ 1K RPM | @ Peak Torque  | @ Peak HP |&#xA;+------------------------------------------+----------+----------------+-----------+&#xA;| 4-stroke (low compression, carburetor)   | 0.62     | 0.47           | 0.52      |&#xA;| 4-stroke (high compression, carburetor)  | 0.60     | 0.42           | 0.47      |&#xA;| 4-stroke (high compression, closed loop) | 0.52     | 0.35           | 0.42      |&#xA;| 4-stroke (supercharged, carburetor)      | 0.75     | 0.50           | 0.55      |&#xA;| 4-stroke (turbocharged, closed loop)     | 0.57     | 0.45           | 0.50      |&#xA;| 2-stroke (low compression, carburetor)   | 0.85     | 0.55           | 0.60      |&#xA;| 2-stroke (high compression, carburetor)  | 0.80     | 0.50           | 0.55      |&#xA;| Diesel 4-stroke                          | 0.35     | 0.25           | 0.30      |&#xA;| Diesel 2-stroke                          | 0.40     | 0.29           | 0.34      |&#xA;+------------------------------------------+----------+----------------+-----------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Observations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;4-strokes are more BSFC-efficient than 2-strokes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;best BSFC occurs at peak torque&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because that's where the engine is most efficient&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;less diesel needed per unit work compared to gasoline&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you know why diesels are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/23865/675&quot;&gt;go-to choice for heavy trucks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - Alternatively, BSFC = fuel flow rate per unit power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T11:47:07.873" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2016-01-19T22:22:18.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are special wires and insulated a bit more, these are one of the few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke in-take.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then you must replace it..  If you have infinite in both directions you will need to replace the rectifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this gives you some troubleshooting tools to remediate your issue.  Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T22:22:18.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25018" CreationDate="2016-01-19T22:50:20.617" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr - Have no fear of Vaseline and o-rings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O-rings are made out of &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; different materials. I would suggest that those o-rings which are made to work in the automotive realm are made to be resistant to things such as oil, gasoline, and other petroleum products. This would include Vaseline. While Vaseline and other petroleum products may degrade real rubber (actually made from the rubber tree), &lt;em&gt;current o-rings technology does not use natural rubber&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Parker O-ring Handbook&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A polymer is the “result of a chemical linking of molecules into a long chain-like structure.” Both plastics and elastomers are classifi ed as polymers. In this handbook, polymer generally refers to a basic class of elastomer, members&#xA;  of which have similar chemical and physical properties. O-rings are made from many polymers, but &lt;strong&gt;a few polymers account for the majority of O-rings produced, namely Nitrile, EPDM and Neoprene&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking further into the handbook will give you this matrix of how well different types of materials fair against different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2VOM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2VOM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking throughout the matrix you can see that natural rubber does very poorly against oil, while Neoprene does fair to good and Nitrile does excellent. (Note: Even though EPDM is said to be used as one of the big three substances, I'm not finding it on the list.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, you should have no worries about whether to utilize Vaseline on any of the o-rings. Vaseline is a &lt;em&gt;very mild&lt;/em&gt; petroleum product. If it wasn't, we wouldn't use it in so many products which involve skin care. If o-rings were actually made of rubber, then there would be concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T04:06:26.617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T04:06:26.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25018" CreationDate="2016-01-19T22:58:25.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there is &lt;em&gt;no reason&lt;/em&gt; that Vaseline might gradually degrade the rubber O-ring on which it has been applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O-rings that are manufactured for automotive purposes do tend to be made in a rather durable fashion so as to be able to withstand &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24797/what-are-all-the-different-types-of-fluid-in-a-car-and-a-short-summary-of-their&quot;&gt;whatever sort of fluids&lt;/a&gt; that might accidentally get spilt during car maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried however, there are also silicone based lubricating compounds such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0054DWS1W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sil-Glyde&lt;/a&gt; for example. These tend to be more expensive alternatives due to the fact that they do not benefit from economy of scale (decreased cost per unit for anything produced in mass quantities) nearly as much as something like Vaseline would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as you mentioned, neoprene is another alternative but as there is nothing wrong with using Vaseline for most automotive purposes, you might as well go ahead and use that as it is probably going to be the cheapest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T23:04:30.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:24:35.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every dyno is going to read things differently. This is inherent due to several factors, which include, but are not limited to, atmospheric conditions (temp, barometric readings, etc), testing conditions (do they place a fan in front of the radiator, how tight did they tie down the vehicle, etc), type of dyno (eddy current or acceleration), or manufacturer of the dyno itself (Mustang, Dynojet, Superflow, etc.). Even the quality of the gas can have different results. Each is going to provide different readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a well known that different brands of dynos produce different results. There is a big rift in the hotrod community as to whether the Dynojet or Mustang dyno is better. Each provides a number, but they are usually different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a dyno there is one major thing you need to consider, that being &lt;em&gt;am I being consistent&lt;/em&gt;? As stated, there are two major reasons to use a dyno in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is tuning. A dyno will allow your tuner get a better than baseline tune (doing a road tune will provide a better tune as these produce real world driving conditions). Any type of dyno will work in this situation because you are only trying to get the most out of the vehicle no matter the power/torque levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly is to observe a difference. Before you do work on a vehicle of a performance nature, it's a good habit to get into to put the vehicle on a dyno and test it out to see what are it's current power/torque levels. In doing so, you give yourself a baseline. When you do the modification, take the vehicle &lt;em&gt;back to the same dyno&lt;/em&gt; and test it again. This will give you the difference. Why use the same dyno? Simply to allow the vehicle a fair shake and to be as accurate against the baseline run as possible. No two dyno runs are going to be completely accurate against each other. If you are using two different dynos to check your results, these numbers are going to be farther away from the truth of the gain (or decrease). You want as close as you can get and using the same dyno is about the only way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any hard and fast numbers for you as to &lt;em&gt;how close is a dyno really&lt;/em&gt;. It mainly depends on how often the dyno is calibrated and how well that calibration is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing of note here is that most dynos take into account the atmospheric conditions encountered at the time of the dyno run. The computer will usually adjust the figures based on these and spit out an answer which is the adjusted value at mean sea level under perfect conditions. This allows the vehicle owner to have as close to standard of a number as which it can be. They can then take the number and compare it to other dyno runs and know the numbers are about as close as can be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T23:24:35.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:29:48.600" Score="7" ViewCount="9914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced a fuel filter in my 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummings (5.9L). I'm now getting performance issues: at low speed, and especially starting from a stopped position, I'm getting low power. Normally the tachometer jumps right up and the power flows immediately. However at high speeds (like on the highway) I don't notice any power issues and it seems to behave normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like perhaps I have air in the fuel line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: my exhaust looks good, no unusual color and is mostly smoke free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14456" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T19:08:03.673" Title="How will diesel engine perform with air in fuel line?" Tags="|diesel|ram|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2016-01-19T23:56:56.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same day runs of the same car on the same dyno should be the same or very nearly the same (keeping in mind that a cold, a warm and a heat soaked car will all make different horsepower). This is one of the few ways to get a reliable measurement of how much impact a modification has on power levels. When you dyno a car six months apart and do a modification in the middle, is the difference due to the modification? Hard to say. If you run the car, swap the part and run the car again the same day, it's pretty conclusive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dynos vary from one another due to different designs and different methods of measurement and different calibration. So taking your car and measuring HP on a dynojet at sea level will produce different horsepower than a calibrated dynojet at 10k feet elevation (the dyno can adjust for the altitude, but what if the car's boost controller works with absolute pressure and not relative? hp will be inflated) which will produce yet different results from a mustang dyno. And so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars vary from one another (even the same make, model, engine, drivetrain) because they are not made of perfectly identical parts assembled in the perfectly identical fashion and maintained in exactly the same way. There is much less variance today than say in the 1960s, but perfect consistency is hard, especially once the vehicles have left the factory and been driven and maintained by different people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T23:56:56.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25031" CreationDate="2016-01-20T00:08:43.283" Score="4" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado. On my way to work today my truck would not accelerate past 35 mph but was revving high rpm's. I stopped and checked my fluids and my ATF wasnt showing anything on the dipstick. I had just topped off all of my fluids 3 weeks ago. I went in the gas station and purchased a quart of atf fluid and it still didnt read anything on the dipstick. I was close to work so I drove it the remainder of the way here. I was fearful of putting too much atf fluid in there. How much should I use? Would the take care of the problem or am I looking at a more serious issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14458" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T00:13:12.717" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T00:22:18.233" Title="1994 Silverado not accelerating past 35" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|silverado|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25030" CreationDate="2016-01-20T00:22:18.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as you need to get it back up to operating level if you plan on driving it any more. If you don't get it up to the proper level, you'll be burning your soft parts up (clutches/bands) and risking the more expensive hard parts (planetaries, sun shell, sprag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the take care of the problem or am I looking at a more serious issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are looking at something more serious. You need to figure out where the transmission fluid went to. More than likely you should be able to see where it's dripping from if you look under the truck. Obviously you're looking for the red Dexron fluid coming out somewhere. Since you lost so much so quickly, I'd suggest one of your seals is gone ... either front at the torque converter or at the back (hopefully) where the driveline goes into the transmission (or where the transfer connects if so equipped). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue will more than likely need to go to a shop to be fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T00:22:18.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25011" CreationDate="2016-01-20T00:58:47.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Glow plugs are used only during colder temps. Once the motor starts the combustion process has begun and no longer requires additional heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like fusion once it starts it ignites itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T00:58:47.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25036" CreationDate="2016-01-20T01:04:47.953" Score="8" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a sprag unit is used in the transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is it and how does it work? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it used anywhere else or is it strictly a thing used in transmissions? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there different kinds of sprags?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T10:38:05.697" Title="What is a sprag unit and what does it do?" Tags="|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25020" CreationDate="2016-01-20T01:51:48.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question need answered with another question. What diagnostic capability do you want? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the generic side of OBD-II leaves something to be desired and has been stagnant since it's inception, the manufacturer specific side of OBD has made tremendous leaps and bounds from where it started in 1996. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My old 1996 Nissan Sentra had about 2 dozen pids. The last time I connected to a Mazda CX9 there were over 100. In fact there were so many that the scan tool (IDS) could not display them all at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The speed of the computers has increased a lot. The rate at which it catches sensor glitches is now astounding. With early OBD lazy sensors were often missed. Today there are usually several codes for the behavior of a sensor beyond sensor high and sensor low. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When OBD came out they could barely run the misfire monitor while running everything else. You could throw away a spark plug wire and drive the car for days before it throws a code. Now I've caught a single misfire event in Mode 5 data. The early GM 3800 had a very basic crank sensor. The current GM vehicles have up to a x54 crank sensor giving amazing resolution. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freeze frame data now have more pids stored and can store multiple events.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Communication with the scan tool have improved. The speed of class 2 is like a snail when compared with CAN. There were instances where plugging in to a separate connector was necessary when accessing other systems in the car beyond the engine. Now every module is accessible through the network. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just a few examples of how while it seems stagnant the diagnostic capabilities have improved.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T01:51:48.520" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25034" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:15:17.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sprag is a kind of clutch that will turn in one direction but not in the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11s5y.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11s5y.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many designs but the common one is a set of balls on ramps. When going the wrong way the rollers run up the ramp assisted by the spring and jam rotation. When it's rotated the correct way the rollers are constantly being forced down allowing rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common place in a transmission to use this is the stator in the torque converter. The stator hold still starting from a stop to redirect fluid and will spin when at cruise speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of clutch has many applications. The bendix of a starter contains one and will spin freely for a few seconds when the engine start but the starter is still engaged. Some alternators have one built into the pulley to reduce the spinning momentum of the engine when the RPM drop suddenly. Hellicoptors have it for if the engine fails the blades can still rotate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several versions of sprags. Some use rollers as mentioned. Others use oblonged feet or wedges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tbp4N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tbp4N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7FOk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7FOk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:15:17.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24978" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:48:23.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those compression readings are too unbalanced and 3 of 4 are too low, even for a worn engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only options are returning the vehicle or getting the seller to pay for a full rebuild. If they will not do either, get a lawyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:48:23.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T04:34:30.910" Score="3" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I inspect or repair the Dodge Caravan heater &quot;mode door&quot;?  How much must be removed beyond the glove box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mode door directs air to defrost or the heater vents, and it is controlled by an electronic switch on the dash. In my case it works inconsistently, making a clicking noise and ending up in the wrong position as often as not.  This makes driving the vehicle in certain weather hazardous, as the windshield fogs up uncontrollably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of &quot;Heater Treater&quot;, a third party maker of replacement parts for blend doors, but they don't do mode doors as of this writing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The same fix should also apply to Plymouth Voyager, Chrysler Voyager, Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country, Chrysler Grand Voyager, Lancia Voyager, and Volkswagen Routan)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:23:14.750" Title="Inspecting and reparing third generation (1996-2000) Dodge Caravan heater mode door" Tags="|dodge|chrysler|heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25042" CreationDate="2016-01-20T05:50:40.343" Score="6" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its freakin cold outside.  I wanted to put my window down a little so I could smoke.  However, the driver's window was frozen shut.  All the other windows are fine.  This in itself isnt all that interesting, but what makes it interesting is the fact that this is not the first time this has happened.  Not only that, its not the only car this has happened in.  Im not sure if this is coincidence, or if there is a reason for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why its only the drivers side window that gets frozen shut and not the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:16:40.120" Title="Window frozen shut" Tags="|window|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25057" CreationDate="2016-01-20T06:30:12.527" Score="15" ViewCount="2333" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;W-16&quot; seems to imply some sort of configuration that resembles the letter W, which implies three banks of cylinders with one sharing a common cylinder head. In fact, the Bugatti W-16 in the Veyron is probably more accurately a double-V-16, with the two V's having different angles. So...was there any reason someone (possibly the Volkswagen group) decided to call this configuration a W-16?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; The connecting rod configuration of the Veyron W-16 from the front looks something like this:&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIxj0.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vIxj0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;W-16 Configuration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;Not much like the letter W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T20:47:28.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T20:47:28.697" Title="Why is a W-16 called, well, W?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|cylinder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2016-01-20T06:32:23.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total Guess&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You drive around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You roll down your window to smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture from respiration builds up on the edge of the window while you smoke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You roll your window up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moisture is trapped between your window and the rubber insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You park and go inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The window freezes to the surface of the insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T06:32:23.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25041" CreationDate="2016-01-20T06:58:18.863" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think I know&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want citations, I have already failed you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was there any reason someone (possibly the Volkswagen group) decided to call this configuration a W-16?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maybe&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at this picture you can see the various designs and names of ICE platforms created by VW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a V and push into another V it looks like this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VV&lt;/strong&gt; Which looks like a W, hence the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygmw0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ygmw0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trivia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oldest W-16 configuration that I can find is the Auto Union Type-C from 1936. Auto Union was one of the founding components of Audi AG.  Here it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxFUH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxFUH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T19:55:30.360" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:55:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25060" CreationDate="2016-01-20T08:32:22.253" Score="4" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the pinout for the connector for the 4l60e there are 2 pins for the pressure control solenoid. 1 pin for HIGH, and 1 pin for LOW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the PCS can only ever be in 1 of 2 positions? I was under the impression that the PCS would be post width modulated to get more varying fluid pressure or is this just not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the PCS can only ever be in 1 of 2 positions is it as simple as applying 12v to the HIGH pin if you want high pressure and  likewise for Low pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:53:31.427" Title="How does PCS on 4l60e work?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|electronics|4l60e|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4825" CreationDate="2016-01-20T09:26:23.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably normal for a car. Coming from the motorcycle world this sounds perfectly normal as motorcycles are even more extreme, most requiring the first oil change after 600 or 1000 miles and some even being filled with a special* running in oil at the factory to accelerate the running in process. Running in will generate a lot of little metal particles (as you get with normal wear just more of them) which will bung up the filter and, as mikes pointed out, might trigger the oil change warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people that developed the oil warning light know a lot more about maintaining engines than your average person so it's best to do what it tells you. The cost of an oil change is usually not far from the cost of a tank of fuel (or about 1/3 of it, for my car) and skipping it might cost you a tank of fuel in the future in worse efficiency. Skimping on maintenance can easily be a false economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*this is often assumed to be some crap oil with poor lubricating properties so that the wear required for running in happens faster, I don't have any info on this myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T09:26:23.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25048" CreationDate="2016-01-20T09:38:31.083" Score="6" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2004 VW Passat B5.5. The last few days have been colder than usual where I live (below 0 degrees Celsius). The outside of my car has been covered in ice in the mornings and I use a scraper to remove the ice so that I can see where I am driving the car. However, this is not the only ice on the car. After scraping all the windows down and getting inside the car, I still wasn't able to see out the front windscreen of my car. There was ice on both sides!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the car is damp inside (although I had no idea until now), and that when the temperature drops the moisture in the air both inside and outside the car will freeze. It's very annoying as when scraping the inside of the windscreen the interior gets covered in ice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What can I do to prevent ice from freezing on to the inside of my windscreen?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in general &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any tips to avoid ice on the car would be good to know&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, I saw another car parked under a large sheet of metal (just a roof, no walls) and it had no ice on it whatsoever! I don't understand this as the outside air temperature was still just as cold as where my car was parked but that car had no ice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a legitimate explanation for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:34:44.370" Title="Why is my car so icy in the winter?" Tags="|car|ice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12089" CreationDate="2016-01-20T09:55:59.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't owned a bike that hasn't been awkward to get into neutral while stationary at some point, my Bandit was the worst for it. I found that it's usually easier to find neutral while the bike is still moving so I got into the habit of engaging neutral as I come to a stop rather than after I've stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T09:55:59.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25046" CreationDate="2016-01-20T11:07:34.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct to assume that this happens because of moisture in the car vaporizing, condensing on the inside of the (colder than the environment) windshield and freezing when the temperature inside drops enough. People bring a lot of water into the car by breathing and bearing snow/rain with their clothing. To avoid this you need to remove as much moisture from the interior as possible. I have been fighting this problem for a long time myself, so here is what I can suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the air conditioning system when you can. It dries out the blown air, but be careful when using it before the end of your trip, as the unit may accumulate some moisture itself, which will evaporate inside the car when you park it (thanks to &lt;em&gt;sweber&lt;/em&gt; for the improvement).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid using the recirculation mode on the heater, unless the A/C is on. Moisture will accumulate in the car much faster, as fresh air is not brought in from the outside, but water vapor is brought in from the lungs of the driver/passengers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive a long distance with the heater maxed and directed at feet once in a while to dry out the constantly wet places in the interior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the pollen filter if you haven't done that for a year or longer. A clogged filter might inhibit the air circulation and accumulate moisture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the inside of the windshield as good as you can (preferably while the temperatures are not freezing yet). Use alcohol, a dirty windshield attracts moisture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use carpet floor mats - get some rubber ones for the winter and clean the snow/water off them once in a while. Carpet mats accumulate moisture when the snow from your shoes melts and often don't have the time to dry out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid bringing snow into the car altogether. You can't do this completely, but clean off your pants and &quot;clap&quot; your shoes before bringing your legs inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave water absorbing materials or a commercial dehumidifier in the car overnight (especially next to the windshield) to absorb extra moisture. Cat litter is great for this (stuff some into a sock), so is salt. Newspapers also work if you're in a pinch (and if you still have any for some reason o.O).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use over-the-counter chemicals intended for reducing window misting. Less misting = less freezing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your trip is done, open all doors to ventilate the interior for a couple of minutes at least. This replaces the humid air inside with drier air from the outside and reduces the inside temperature, which reduces evaporation. You can make this quicker by starting sooner - open all windows before you start parking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is no time for ventilating the car - turn the heater to the lowest setting during your last minutes of driving on maximum power setting. This will reduce the interior temperature and reduce evaporation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, leave the windows slightly open when you park the car if it is safe. This helps air circulate and less of the evaporated water ends up on your windshield. Just make sure that it's not raining or snowing (or use wind deflectors).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the freezing on the inside of the windshield is extreme and practically impossible to avoid - make sure your heater system is not faulty. Leaks in the heater core can introduce moisture to the interior even when parked. Other places where moisture can get in (sunroof, water drains) should be inspected as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what is known to help us poor people living in countries with cold winters, combine them and your problems should be gone. Usually rubber mats, avoiding to amass mountains of snow inside and ventilating the interior for a couple of minutes when you park is enough, the rest are for when you have some serious interior dampness problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However what I haven't understood yet myself is why some cars are more prone to inside freezing than others - some people appear to be doing none of this and are not experiencing inside freezing. Might have something to do with natural ventilation of the car or superior isolation. Hopefully someone else can answer this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid freezing on the OUTSIDE of the car, there are two ways I know of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park it where less moisture and snow deposits on top of the car - under roofs, in garages, next to walls, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the car up. There are special full body covers for sale, but they are impractical and often pointless. What is more practical is covering the windshield only. Anything works - cardboard cover, large towel, thicker bed sheet. Just hold it in place with the wipers and it will prevent the windshield from freezing over, saving you some scraping (which slowly scratches the glass with the tiny pieces of dirt on it, therefore is harmful besides being tiring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously all of this can be prevented by parking in heated garages, but that is not an option for most of us. If anyone knows more ways to avoid freezing on the inside and outside - add your own answer, I would like to know as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T15:34:44.370" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:34:44.370" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25068" CreationDate="2016-01-20T11:19:01.257" Score="16" ViewCount="20774" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a commonly-held belief that two-stroke engines are less fuel-efficient than four-stroke engines, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25022/675&quot;&gt;some example BSFC figures&lt;/a&gt; appear to confirm this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is it that causes two-strokes to be less fuel-efficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to believe that it is due to the fact that the intake stroke occurs once per two revolutions in a four-stroke engine, in contrast to the once-per-revolution of a two-stroke engine, but am not so sure now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evinrudenation.com/reviews/the-fuel-duel-are-4-strokes-more-efficient-than-2-strokes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Evinrude article&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the difference in fuel efficient is down to the method of fuel delivery, so the differences in fuel economy is due to an unfair comparison of older two-strokes with newer four-strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what factors would explain the differences in fuel economy between the two types of engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T11:25:42.360" Title="What makes two-stroke engines less fuel-efficient than four-strokes?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|engine-theory|two-stroke|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25049" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:33:55.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to both agree and disagree with your statements in the question and the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher fuel consumption of a two stroke engine is mostly due to the fact that it has a power stroke per revolution of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I however have to disagree with the article stating that the fuel delivery plays a major role in fuel efficiency of older 2-Stroke engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I support my statements by taking the example of fuel efficiency difference between a carbureted 2 stroke &amp;amp; a carb 4 stroke engine. Not even considering EFI when both are carbs the 4 stroke still out performs the 2 stroke by significant amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Yamaha 125cc 2stroke engine gives around 70mpg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A honda 125cc 4stroke engine gives around 153mpg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now obviously EFI may it be Direct injection or port injection will improve the efficiency and exhaust of any engine regardless of it being a 2 stroke or 4 stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The E-TEC technology shown in the video is mearly a GDI on a two stroke engine, it will increase the efficiency but will it be equal to a GDI 4 stroke engine of the same capacity? I highly doubt it , for example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The EFI version of the above 125 cc honda engine gives around 166mpg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning if the 2 stroke suzuki engine with GDI can produce more than double the F.E then I agree with the concept but with my knowledge of how GDI works I am not certain of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note : The engines are from Yamaha RX135 , Honda Stunner and Honda&#xA;  stunner PGM-FI and these are real world figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T12:52:55.767" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T12:52:55.767" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14830" CreationDate="2016-01-20T12:56:46.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower &quot;cold side&quot; of the Carnot cycle leads to better theoretical efficiency, sure, but have you calculated how much? 10-20 K colder intake with the same 1000 K combustion temperature affect final efficiency by 1%. And that efficiency is 70% in any case, so you can guess that there are so many more parameters lowering the final efficiency to 25%, that the Carnot has little relevance in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in any case, the engine has to be re-engineered to use that lower &quot;cold side&quot; if you want the same combustion temperature, because if you just lower the intake air in a normal engine, you end up lowering by the same amount also the &quot;hot side&quot; temperature&quot;, reducing the efficiency gain even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter cars use more fuel because air is denser and you have to push it away, tires have greater friction and you have to push them harder, oil in transmission gets thicker and causes more losses, you use heating and the other features that use energy (that comes from the fuel of course, you have less to actually move the car), the fuel is different in the first place to enhance combustion in cold temperatures (this means is modified to burn better, but has less energy inside so you need more), and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have up to 50% worse fuel economy in winter, in specific situations even 100% worse (that means, the fuel consumption doubles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As example of causes of higher fuel consumption: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/coldweather.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/coldweather.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, my mistake: the maximum efficiency of 1-(T_low / T_high)) applies to Carnot, but the Otto engine has a different maximum efficiency, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/168912/carnot-vs-otto&quot;&gt;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/168912/carnot-vs-otto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also means that the engine is already way closer to the theoretical efficiency than what it's often though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T16:55:22.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T13:26:14.557" Score="3" ViewCount="5251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself such a bluetooth adapter for my car, because the display on the radio stopped working, and I wanted to see if it will show up any errors. There are even apps for Android that work with said bluetooth adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are the Android apps reliable, meaning, would they show as much data as a PC software would show when connected to the bluetooth adapter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is this adapter good for all kinds of diagnostics regarding the car? What are the differences between that one, and the more expensive ones with cable for diagnostic (I've seen some for more than 100$, and the bluetooth one I got is just like 13$)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:49:54.937" Title="OBDII ELM 327 Bluetooth adapter - is it reliable?" Tags="|obd-ii|diagnostics|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-20T16:16:02.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25053" CreationDate="2016-01-20T13:48:11.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bluetooth ELM327 adapters are horrible, I found the Bluetooth connection to be extremely unreliable. Spend some extra and get the USB version, if ELM327 is what you want. The Android apps have the potential to show the same information as the PC applications, but usually the features on the Android apps are limited, it depends on the applications themselves. However the data you can get may be not much either way, as the ELM327 is a universal chip - it will only get you the most common generic codes for some of the cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend ELM327 for reading codes at all, unless you have an Engine Check Light on and need something to get you on the track. I am quite certain that even if there is a code for your radio display (unlikely), ELM327 wouldn't read it. For that you need vehicle specific reader, as some codes can be only read by those. It is not necessarily expensive, there are cheap OBD cables for many makes. &lt;strong&gt;What car do you drive?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find ELM327 to be alright for reading sensor data, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T14:49:54.937" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:49:54.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21754" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:01:07.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common way to run cabling from the back of the car to the front is tucking it under the floor carpet near an edge, where passengers' feet don't frequently stomp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example you could route it along an edge next to the door, then through the B-pillar or A-pillar, around the windshield and to the rear view mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:01:07.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24402" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:02:36.783" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem with the &lt;strong&gt;coolant temperature sensor&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't worry - replacement is cheap and can be done easily by yourself or a friend who worked on cars before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cause&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold engines need more fuel to start than warm engines. This is due to the fact that a part of the vaporized fuel condenses at the cold cylinder wall inside each cylinder. This part of the injected fuel is not available for the combustion process.&#xA;Therefore, modern ECUs measure the engine temperature (by measuring the coolant temperature) and adapt the amount of fuel that gets injected during engine start and warmup. This is called &lt;strong&gt;warmup enrichment&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ECU has no valid information about the engine temperature (due to a damaged sensor), the fuel mixture during engine start gets calculated incorrectly. This is not a big deal when the engine is running (worst possible side-effect: higher fuel consumption), but can prevent the engine from starting as the engine reacts more sensitively to changes in fuel-mixture during the cranking phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant sensor itself can be damaged, but the same kind of problems can arise from an &lt;strong&gt;unplugged sensor&lt;/strong&gt;, from &lt;strong&gt;corroded contacts&lt;/strong&gt; or from a &lt;strong&gt;damaged sensor wire&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;insulation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fixing the problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensor replacement is very simple and can be done by yourself in 15 minutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the engine cool down (otherwise you could get burned from hot coolant water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove metal clamp holding the sensor connector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplug sensor cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove metal clamp holding the sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplug sensor (this is the part when your hands get wet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert new sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install metal clamp holding the sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replug sensor cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install metal clamp holding the sensor cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are three &lt;strong&gt;videos&lt;/strong&gt; that show the installation process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDhQpLNjZcQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yFsuzawSa8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 2&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jTMCDOXwco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Part 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR: &lt;strong&gt;Check your coolant sensor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="44272" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T09:18:08.660" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T09:18:08.660" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25041" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:12:24.460" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm by no means an expert, but found an interesting article on Wikipedia about the W engine that indicates the W being a relatively recent addition to the automotive world, but not the aircraft/motorcycle worlds:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W_engine&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W_engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three different configurations have been called W engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Three banks of cylinders sharing a common crankshaft, a configuration also known as broad arrow configuration due to its shape resembling the British government broad arrow property mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Four banks of cylinders sharing a common crankshaft, also called a 'double-V'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two banks of cylinders with two crankshafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classical W engine uses three banks of cylinders, all connected to&#xA;one crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the first W engines was the Anzani 3-cylinder, built in 1906, to be used in Anzani motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1917 Napier Lion aircraft engine was an early W12 engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the rest of the article calls that the W engine, and calls the Veyron engine a double-V (specifically a double-VR6) engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like double-V started becoming known in the 1930-40 range.  There's a mention in that article of a couple double-V (W12 and W24) aircraft engines becoming known about then(in addition to DucatiKiller's mention of the Auto Union Type-C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That Anzani 3-cylinder is the first mention that I could find of a W.  As far as that W engine, it does look like what you were mentioning&#xA;(3 cylinder banks) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzani_3-cylinder_fan_engines&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzani_3-cylinder_fan_engines&lt;/a&gt;. The Napier Lion looks like that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11403" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:12:24.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25053" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:12:38.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ELM327 is (almost?) as powerful as any other diagnostics solution. That's simply because it only translates the low level OBD protocols to some other format.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bluetooth connections on mobile phones seem to be flaky on many devices. Usually, this shows as established connections suddenly failing during transfer. Restarting the app, and/or turning the phone's BT off and on may be required, or even a full reboot in some cases, to get BT back working.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What you can or cannot do with the ELM fully depends on the &lt;em&gt;software&lt;/em&gt; you use. There is a host of apps and other SW which support only the most generic standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot;&gt;OBD PIDs&lt;/a&gt;, of which &quot;Torque&quot; is the most well-kown. This may or may not be enough for your case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any fault detected by one of the ECUs should be readable by any standard software. However, there are standard and non-standard fault codes, and generic software will often only display the numerical fault code for make/model specific faults and not the full textual description and/or hints on how to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For some makes there are specific apps available, like &quot;Carly for BMW&quot; for instance, which know how to query and interpret make/model specific, non-standard data.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A full PC software suite, especially professional ones used by garages or dealerships similar to e.g. VCDS/VAGcom, will provide more features, like configuring or updating ECUs' firmware, which most apps don't yet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generally, bluetooth or cable does not make any difference when it comes to functionality. It's rather a question of what the software supports; AFAIK, VCDS is dongled to their own proprietary diagnostic hardware for example.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get one of those $10 BT-ELMs and check if it does all you need with some (free) apps, which I think it will. Reading and clearing fault codes will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you have a real need for more features you'll have to locate a capable software and check what kind of adapter that specific software requires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:12:38.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21065" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:51:29.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Afaik, the answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. Sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The climate control diagnostics mode was meant to be used for quick checks if no diagnostic cable is available. There is no possibility to turn it on permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:51:29.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25044" CreationDate="2016-01-20T14:53:31.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) can easily be achieved with two wires. All PWM does is hold one wire constant and rapidly pulse the other between 1k and 10k times a second. By changing the relation ship of how long the pulse is on versus how long the pulse is off the duty cycle is changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the wires from the pressure control solenoid go to the PCM. The probable operation of the solenoid is that there is a default position of the solenoid in the middle where the transmission is derivable. This position is held with springs so that if control is lost the solenoid will default there. This is there to provide a limp mode in case of electrical failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here to raise the pressure one line is held at a constant polarity and the other is PWMed. This will cause the solenoid to move from the default position in the direction of raising the pressure. To lower the pressure the same thing happens but now with reversed polarity. This will cause the solenoid to move from the default position in the direction of lowering the pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T14:53:31.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25049" CreationDate="2016-01-20T15:22:09.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at how a 4 stroke engine works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Downstroke - sucks mix into the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Upstroke   - compresses gasses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Fire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Downstroke - engine does Work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e) Upstroke   - used gasses are expelled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now look at the 2stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Fire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Downstroke Engine does work (high pressure in cylinder)&#xA;                Compresses mix in crankcase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Upstroke  - Engine must both exhaust gasses and get new mix in&#xA;                - sucks new mix into crankcase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is thus always going to be a mix of exhaust and unburned gasses in a two stroke engine. There used also to be a time when, to increase power, the two stroke transfer of mix from lower crankcase overlapped the exhaust port being opened. This resulted in unburned fuel going straight through the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern design reduces but cannot entirely remove these efficiencies which appear still to be more taxing than the 4 stroke method of turning the engine twice to get one work stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14245" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:22:09.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25039" CreationDate="2016-01-20T15:23:14.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find a picture for you but to no avail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing that I can recommend is have someone turn the mode switch back and forth while you crawl around under the dash and listen for which motor is making noise. This will be external to the heater box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you locate the mode control motor, remove it. The motor will have a male shaft sticking out that matches the female end of the mode door in the heater box. Inspect the female side of the mode door. Look for any cracks or plain missing chunks. If it looks ok, using a screwdriver gently rotate the door back and forth. It should turn smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the motor is out, leave it plugged in and have that same person move the mode switch back and forth. Watch the male part sticking out for how it rotates. If you hear clicking or it does not move smoothly then the motor is the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:23:14.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T15:23:58.000" Score="3" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;my honda doesn't want to start, in the morning it starts with one crank but as soon as I drive and I switch off the car and I want to start again then it doesn't want to start. When I take a piece of wire on positive connector on starter and other end on the starter (where the starter wire is) then it starts.   I do not know what the problem with it is. It's a 2000 model honda ballade vtec shape &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know why my car won't start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T15:55:14.407" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:55:14.407" Title="Honda Civic starting problems?" Tags="|honda|electrical|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25063" CreationDate="2016-01-20T15:32:42.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your starter solenoid is bad.  You starter solenoid has two pieces to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The signal it takes from your ignition switch triggers a magnet the turns another switch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when the magnet is activated it closes another circuit for your starter.  This gives your starter current from the battery to turn over your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get what your saying, you are manually activating your starter with a wire to turn over your engine which means your starter is ok.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the info I would guess that your either your starter solenoid or ignition switch are where the issue resides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you this is a guess based upon limited info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:32:42.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:11:25.780" Score="13" ViewCount="46509" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some countries it is quite popular to cover up the front grill in winter (especially on diesel engined cars). As I understand the intention is to inhibit airflow to the radiator, but why would you do that if coolant flow to the radiator is allowed by the thermostat only when operating temperature is reached? As far as I can tell it all it could do is cause harm, such as overheating and lost intercooler effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qfpg9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qfpg9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What is this???&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually seen special plastic or fabric covers sold for specific models, so it must have SOME kind of use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEVJh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEVJh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Do you really need this thing?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the catch, when do you need one if your cooling system is in order? I've heard of people saying that sometimes the interior heater is so effective that the engine is having trouble keeping the temperature up, but how would covering up the non-functioning radiator work? Is cold air hitting the outer shell enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T10:34:29.203" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T19:02:22.130" Title="The purpose of covering the grill during cold weather" Tags="|coolant|winter|temperature|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24930" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:44:37.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the health of the battery before it was discharged and how long it was discharged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working at a shop, we would top off the cells with distilled water, charge the battery overnight, then test the battery to see if it was still good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either charge it (2A overnight or 10A for about 1-2 hours) or jumpstart the car and run it or drive it for about 15 minutes.  Afterwards, you want to test how strong the battery is.  Parts stores will usually test the battery (best way to tell).  Alternately, you can try starting the car ~10 times to see if the starter turns strong or starts getting weaker.  Try this test again after the car has been sitting a few hours to make sure it can hold the charge.  If it starts sounding weak, replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T16:44:37.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25065" CreationDate="2016-01-20T16:46:19.060" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see a few reasons to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The weather in some places will be so cold that even with the thermostat fully closed the cooling system isn't able to warm the engine up to operating temperatures. Inhibiting air flow through the radiator will reduce the amount of heat rejected to the surroundings, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;allowing the engine to get up to temperature&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. The cold environment lends to a reduced risk of overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Preventing air flow through the radiator grill helps &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;reduce drag coefficient&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on some vehicles, which helps improve fuel economy. BMW has introduced a dynamic kidney grill on their 2016 7-Series for this purpose (provided the necessary conditions are met - so the system is never active on a hot day with the engine under load).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;everyone else is doing it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and it looks &quot;cool&quot;. Though this reason is more psychological than technical :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if there is anything diesel-specific going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T18:53:09.740" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T18:53:09.740" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25049" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:09:49.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just so we're on the same page as to how two strokes work, here's a pic. I had to look it up because I had the wrong picture in my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7bxM.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7bxM.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Two Stroke Motor Anatomy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In looking at how the cycle actually works, the power stroke goes off creating the combustion products and power. As the downstroke begins the pressure in the cylinder is high allowing the exhaust gases to escape and forcing the intake reed valve closed. As the upstroke happens the pressure in the cylinder is now low because the escaping exhaust gases cause a small pressure wave of escaping gas that now opens the reed value and draws in new fuel / air mixture.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It seems like some key reasons for the engine being inefficient:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cylinders are not scavenged of exhaust gases by the piston forcing them out, they simply escape because the outside air pressure is lower than the cylinder pressure after the spark ignites the fuel. This would lead to incomplete expulsion of the exhaust gases. The volume consumed by those leftover gases prevent more air / fuel mix from being ingested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the upstroke happens, for some part of the travel the air / fuel mix is also being expelled. Thus wasting fuel as it's expelled.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe these problems are solved in larger two strokes but the small ones drive things like weed cutters, snow blowers, lawn mowers, etc, small engines for limited applications. Not driving cross country. For these small engines parts count and cost are much more important, so they work really well for those applications.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T17:09:49.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:18:58.083" Score="5" ViewCount="1214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, the keys in my car were left in the ignition in the 'on' position and my battery was drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a question about replacing v. recharging (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24930/replace-or-recharge-a-battery-after-is-has-been-drained&quot;&gt;24930&lt;/a&gt;).  I removed the battery from the car and and took it to an auto shop.  They recharged it (took about 1/2 hour), after the charge it was in &quot;good condition with a 554 CCA rating 13.09 V&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now however the car has now completely died on me twice while driving it.  It does not sputter or anything it just stops running and everything shuts off.  So far both times I have been able to just start it up again.  And the battery seems to be fine ... it has enough power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that it is related in some way to the battery being drained, removed and recharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that is just a bad connection?  I ensured that the connections were solid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else it could be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2006 Mazda 3, 2.3L]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:09:11.113" Title="Why does my car die completely (after a battery recharge)?" Tags="|engine|battery|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25069" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:59:24.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Your Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few reasons that you might have your engine cut out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any error codes (found by plugging in a scan tool to the OBDII port on your car), they would help dramatically in being able to narrow down the array of possible answers to your problem. If you do have a faulty connection, which I don't think you do, then a code should show up to correspond with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the case that there is no check engine light on your dashboard when the engine cuts out, nor are there any error codes on the scan tool, the most likely cause of your problem is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a bad fuel pump&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This is something that (depending on your car) most automotive computer systems are not able to pick up on. This is because most cars do not have a fuel pressure sensor to be able tell the car what the actual fuel pressure is, hence it thinks that there is nothing wrong. If you also start to notice that you experience a lack of power from your car when you are driving it just before it cuts out then this is almost certainly your problem. If this is your problem, you might also tend to find that the car will cut out more at higher speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to determine whether it definitely is the fuel pump or not, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBo-vmEEwv4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check out this video&lt;/a&gt; on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, the problem becomes much harder to find because there are no codes and it just cuts out randomly on occasion. At this point it might be a good idea to take it to a mechanic unless you do happen to have a VAG-COM or other sort of data logger system on hand to enable you to do further diagnostics in to what might be the root cause of your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background Engine Theory&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small lack of fuel being injected in to the internal combustion engine will result in a lack of power being generated in the explosion inside the cylinder. When there is little to no fuel being injected, this reduces the energy generated inside the cylinder even further to the point where there is not enough of a force being generated to be able to turn the crankshaft any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T18:12:16.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T18:12:16.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25072" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:24:00.357" Score="8" ViewCount="6467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get that the main effect of a bad fuel pump is that the engine will cut out at higher speeds, and that this is often not easily noticeable until that happens because there are little or no prior indications that I am aware of. And that this doesn't mean that the car fails to start (in most cases). I also assume that the answer must be that for some reason it must be harder to maintain a good fuel pressure at higher speeds but I don't understand why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why is the effect of a bad fuel pump more noticeable at higher speeds?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, by &quot;higher speeds&quot; I meant an increase in miles per hour (mph) of the car when in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T18:58:03.763" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T21:59:29.390" Title="Why is the effect of a bad fuel pump more noticable at higher speeds?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|engine-theory|fuel-injection|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25071" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:49:07.150" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is the effect of a bad fuel pump more noticeable at higher speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that by 'higher speeds' you mean engine speeds or RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During high RPM operation an ICE consumes more fuel so the flow rate into the fuel injection system or carburetor increases at higher RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This taxes the fuel system and puts more load on the pump requiring it to fulfill the need for more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a fuel pump is nearing the end of it's service life and is not running optimally this can lead to situation called 'fuel starvation' where the requirements for fuel for the ICE are not being met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would result in a lean condition to the vehicle where it may not be able to achieve a higher RPM due to the fuel starvation and the resulting power loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of a fuel pump going bad will result in a lean condition to the ICE preventing it from maximizing conversion from fuel to torque at it's maximum possible conversion rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: From OP Edit of Original Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you actually mean higher speed as in higher rate of distance covered over time  I will add this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher speeds equate to higher RPM's which in turn consumes more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T19:08:27.747" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:08:27.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25071" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:49:25.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It's a demand vs supply deal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel pumps found in most OEM fuel delivery setups today are driven by an electric motor that is running at a fixed speed. This effectively fixes the flow rate provided by the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of fuel-delivery systems found in fuel-injected vehicles are return-style. What this means is that the fuel injectors will pulse open to utilize the amount of fuel required, and the remainder is recycled back to the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under high loads (which usually tally with higher speeds), the fuel injectors are commanded to stay open for longer, meaning that less fuel is returned back to the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel pump can't deliver enough fuel flow, the engine may end up being starved of the fuel it needs, so the injectors are commanded to stay open but there is not enough fuel to go around, resulting in misfires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T18:49:25.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:16:40.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that it's because the weatherstripping around the driver side window is more worn because it gets used more than the other windows. Since it's more worn, it may be letting water get by, which then freezes. Replacing the weatherstripping may be an easy do-it-yourself job, depending on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:16:40.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T19:25:55.637" Score="5" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've replaced brake light bumper switch, hazard and tail light relay and tail light switch but still didn't fix my problem. Have to take the fuse out to keep from battery draining. Is it an electrical issue? and how do i fix it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14471" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:09:59.963" Title="why do my tail lights and brake lights remain on when 95' honda accord is turned off?" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T17:46:36.680" Score="6" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNt6G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNt6G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I have been able to find is the image on google. This connector is used on my Mitsubishi and I would like to source replacements for some custom wiring. Wondering if anyone else has seen it or knows the manufacturer/series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="RPAYNE" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T13:19:09.063" Title="Can anyone identify this connector?" Tags="|connector|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T20:16:47.837" Score="1" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please link me to a website where I can get the speed at which a car must shift gears, (manufacturer wise would be better).&#xA;Or maybe, link to a website where I will be able to calculate the recommended speed to shift gears. Known is the gear ratios, max power@rpm, max torque@rpm, wheel diameter. Now how do I calculate the recommended speed to shift all gears.&#xA;Lets take Hyundai i10 or Maruti Alto 800 for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T10:12:47.650" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T10:12:47.650" Title="Changing gears at what speed?" Tags="|gears|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2016-01-21T18:03:48.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25077" CreationDate="2016-01-20T21:04:14.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I got this.  someone help me verify...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I watch the tach and speedo to determine MPH per 1000 RPM in higher gears (3rd,4th,5th).  On my car its about 10, 15, 19.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[tire diameter (in inches)] * [pi] * [1/(gear ratio * final drive ratio)] / [in/ft] / [ft/mi] * [RPM] * [min/hr] = MPH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;constants&lt;br&gt;&#xA;pi = 3.14159&lt;br&gt;&#xA;in/ft = 12&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ft/mi = 5280&lt;br&gt;&#xA;min/hr = 60&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;calculated&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I used my car in 4th gear since I know the tire size, approx gear ratio, FD and what the answer should be.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;tire diameter - used an online calculator - 195/55R15 = 23.4in&lt;br&gt;&#xA;gear ratio - 1.00 (I think this is off slightly, but close enough)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FD ratio - 4.40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;RPM - 1000&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23.4 * 3.14 * ( 1 / ( 1.00 * 4.40 ) ) / 12 / 5280 * 1000 * 60 = 15.81&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be about correct.  My internet is being funky so I can't look up my exact ratios right now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple things that will throw this off such as tire diameter not being exactly as advertised, tach and speedo not being 100% accurate.  Doing this as one equation and using a calculators pi gives more accurate results due to significant digits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you want to determine where to shift, plug in the RPM of the redline for that vehicle.  All of the calculated values need to be calculated specifically for the vehicle in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd - 1.360 = 11.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4th - 1.034 = 15.3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5th - 0.787 = 20.1&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are close, a little high.  This is expected since tires on the ground aren't exactly round (contact patch on the ground) and accounting for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T21:16:10.567" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T21:16:10.567" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T21:10:05.083" Score="6" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 jaguar - the remote went dead. I got a new battery and I know I have to get that reprogrammed in order to use. My problem is that I can't use the key to lock the doors or trunk.  when I lock it with the keys, it will lock but immediately unlocks and I am not able to use the key to open the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14473" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T00:04:03.487" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T06:58:01.023" Title="2000 jaguar locks" Tags="|locks|jaguar|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18461" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:11:31.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With very old aftermarket electronics the only real thing that can be done is removing the system. With aftermarket electronics there is little to no support, no replacement parts and no predictable failure mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you drive your self insane or get stranded somewhere when the system fails altogether, remove the immobilizer system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:11:31.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25082" CreationDate="2016-01-20T23:09:17.510" Score="5" ViewCount="6535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no screenwash, and my water in the washer bottle keeps freezing up, and I can't get to the shops for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KimvC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KimvC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says nothing about the ingredients, but it says it has &quot;Bitrex&quot; for protection...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It smells very alcoholly and bitter, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have heated jets or anything, but I do have mist jets. Will it actually defrost my windscreen as well? The bottle is about 2L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I put this into the washer bottle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will it have any effect on ice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T09:15:48.927" Title="Will putting de-icer spray in the washer bottle remove ice from my windscreen?" Tags="|windshield-washer|ice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25081" CreationDate="2016-01-20T23:40:03.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Data sheet I viewed on line it should do no harm. How effective it will be, will depend on how much it is diluted by the water in the washer tank. The formula may also evaporate quickly in the tank. In short it is better than straight water, but likely not as effective as a product designed to be added directly to the windscreen washer tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastEditorUserId="1566" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T01:35:45.133" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T01:35:45.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T23:31:22.650" Score="6" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a motorhome and tow my car behind. Since I have to leave the car in accessory mode so the steering wheel is unlocked, the battery doesn't last a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to run a DS line from the motorhome hookup (fused at motorhome) to the battery in a car to utilize the motorhomes charging. I plan to fuse at the car battery. Really would like to add a diode to prevent the car battery from backfeeding into the motorhome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All batteries are flooded lead acid, 12V.  Since there is a good possibility of backfeed when starting (diesel draws a lot of power to start), I'm not sure what size of a diode I should use or even where I could purchase one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live about 40 miles North of Toronto Canada. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on where to get or improve the circuit would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14481" OwnerDisplayName="Bob" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T06:54:08.363" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:05:05.243" Title="Charging circuit" Tags="|electrical|battery|charging|rv|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2016-01-20T23:50:07.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fastest, cheapest and easiest solution is to add a battery disconnect switch to the car. After placing the ignition switch into acc mode the open the hood and disconnect the switch. When you arrive at your destination, open the hood and reconnect the switch. This costs under $20. It also eliminates the need to run anything or calculate anything. Many auto parts stores carry this in stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS put this on the negative battery cable not the positive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/glpfN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/glpfN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T13:45:25.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:45:25.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25079" CreationDate="2016-01-21T00:03:19.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it's the fob? First, I don't believe you need to get the remote programmed for a battery change ... most cars are not this way. Second, when the locks pop back up, this is &lt;em&gt;usually due to one of the doors being ajar&lt;/em&gt;. Could also be the trunk lid or the hood. Before you assume it's the remote (sounds like it's actually working to me or you'd get nothing), ensure all of the doors/trunk/hood are shut tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:03:19.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2016-01-21T00:05:41.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the battery messes up your radio, etc. Instead of a diode which causes a voltage drop you could put a 55 W lamp in series. It will limit the current to the battery but as the battery charges up the voltage drop across the bulb will reduce and the battery gets full alternator voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cranking the motor home its battery voltage may drop to 6 V or so. The charging lamp will glow at half-voltage (about 1/4 power) and won't load the car battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJlwd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJlwd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14479" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:05:41.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25090" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:13:50.310" Score="18" ViewCount="84121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people starting engines in a build without a Radiator hooked up, to see if it fires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old engine and want to see if it will run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be started without a radiator?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will any damage occur? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any advantages to doing this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T18:15:38.150" Title="Can you run an engine without a radiator?" Tags="|engine|radiator|motors|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:26:11.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;An engine is a very large thermal mass. When the engine is cold it takes time to warm up. If you only run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds from cold there should be no problem. Running the engine any longer than that may cause the engine to overheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T01:26:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25096" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:28:34.820" Score="21" ViewCount="28348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older engine that is seized. It is a 1953 Desoto Hemi. How can I un-seize it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mRm6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mRm6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sprayed Sea Foam Deep Creep down the plugs and let sit for weeks. As well as transmission fluid. To no avail, this bad boy won't crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to use a pipe wrench on the pulley, with a 10' solid steel pipe as an extension. It would not move. I suspect using a 20' extension &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has to be a systematic approach to get this turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T07:15:59.723" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T14:09:30.230" Title="How do you un-seize an engine?" Tags="|engine|old-cars|seized-engine|hemi|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:30:42.523" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; be started without a radiator. You will not cause any damage as long as the engine does not overheat. If you don't run it long enough for the engine to get too hot, it's not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an example of how it could be beneficial:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to own a 94 Camaro Z28. The engine in it was a Gen-II LT1 350. This engine has what's called an &lt;em&gt;Optispark Distributor&lt;/em&gt;. The Opti sits on the front of the engine behind the water pump. If you replaced the distributor, you'd want to ensure it's going to run correct before you put the water pump back on and fill it up with coolant. So, you start it up and let it run for a few seconds. There's not enough heat build up to cause any issues, so ... &lt;em&gt;no harm; no foul&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T06:51:03.143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T06:51:03.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:35:02.430" Score="6" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning, my car wouldn't start so a friend of mine and I tried to push start it, with no luck. We got around a corner in my neighborhood and fortunately found someone who could jump it. Afterwards, as soon as I reverse, I notice there is a puddle of orange-ish fluid on the ground and my steering is SUPER tight. I need help figuring out exactly what is going on, because I know I shouldn't be driving it in it's current state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14480" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T08:31:06.853" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T08:59:21.707" Title="Steering tight and orange fluid on ground after failure to start" Tags="|power-steering|steering|leak|infiniti|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25089" CreationDate="2016-01-21T01:36:05.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Sea Foam and transmission fluid did not work, I would stop trying to crank the engine. If you force the engine you will likely damage it. If I had to guess, there is rust built up on the cylinder wall around the rings. Forcing the pistons past these rust rings will likely score the cylinder wall or ruin the rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is not to risk it; tear the engine down and inspect what may be frozen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T07:41:43.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T07:41:43.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24580" CreationDate="2016-01-21T03:55:24.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highlighting only benefits of belt driven vehicles.&#xA;1) They operate less smoothly. (noisless mostly)&#xA;2) They support high tourque ( cruiser need)&#xA;3) The need to lubrication is null and void.&#xA;4) Swing arm readjustment is history.&#xA;5) They are less heavier in comparison to other final drive systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14429" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T03:55:24.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24904" CreationDate="2016-01-21T04:44:08.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've brought it to the mechanic yesterday and I got an update thru the phone that the problem was a P0700 error code that was thrown. He mentioned that before he continued to check the tcm he noted that even though the transmission oil was red, it was not feeling like oil(there is no water mixed but the oil feels less oily, based on how he described it to me) hence it probably wasn't working anymore (the oil) to move the transmission, and asked me if he could flush it.He called again and alas, upon opening the pan, he mentioned that the transmission filter was very dirty,but I wondered why because I was following the Preventive Maintenance based on the manual. He replaced the filter and replaced it with new ATF and solenoids so I'm hoping when I pick it up later this afternoon it'll be ok. I'll update this answer later to the full diagnostic info that was captured from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll also ponder as to why the filter was very dirty even though it was following my regular maintenance intervals(I was following the intervals based on months). Hopefully no damage was done to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: I checked the full diagnostics and it showed that the car had the following error codes:&#xA;Transmission&#xA;P0894-transmission component slipping&#xA;P0733-incorrect gear ratio #3&#xA;P0732-incorrect gear ratio #2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've consulted it with different mechanics with different approaches. It took a few weeks of consultation and parts &#xA;At the moment I am looking into replacing the wiring harness and the solenoids (If that does not solve the case, I won't have to pay my mechanic the cost of the parts, just his labor). If it still does not get fixed, I'm looking to buy a replacement transmission. I know it's a bit expensive, but the car's interior and engine is still very fresh (My car is just around 40,000 miles, with all equipment working) and I'm not fussing about it being a 10 year old car. I'll update this again with the final answer once the repair is finished this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastEditorUserId="3988" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T11:01:51.843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T11:01:51.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T04:44:52.167" Score="12" ViewCount="174781" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm sitting idle at traffic lights I put the car into neutral. The engine stays idling at about 1000 RPM. However every now and then it drops down to about 500 RPM and then quickly back up to about 1200 then goes slowly down to 1000 and stays there for a bit until I go again or it drops again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only happens for a second or two and about 3 times a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal or does it indicate some sort of problem with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14485" LastEditorUserId="14485" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T07:23:45.040" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T10:54:02.733" Title="Why does my RPM drop when sitting idle at traffic lights?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|car|rpm|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25089" CreationDate="2016-01-21T06:33:22.310" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop trying to crank it and start beginning to disassemble it. Something is seriously wrong with it and forcing it will only break more stuff that might not already be broken. Especially if you have no idea what caused it to seize in the first place. The only thing more annoying than a seized engine is a seized engine with a sheared off bolt in the nose of the crank. Save yourself the hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by disconnecting the crankshaft from the camshaft and seeing if the bottom half can rotate when disconnected from the valvetrain. Looks like you've already done that so on to the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, take off one head, try again, then take off the other. Maybe a valve and a piston hit each other really hard and are wedged together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, take off the oil pan and look up the cylinder bores. See anything funny? No? Remove the oil pump and remove the rods from the crank and begin pushing the rods and pistons out the top one by one. See anything funny with the bearings? The pistons? The cylinder walls? When all the rods and pistons are out, off come the main caps, the bearings and the crankshaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can start inspecting the cylinder walls and the piston skirts. This will tell you why the engine is seized. The rebuild may then commence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T23:01:43.077" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T23:01:43.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25091" CreationDate="2016-01-21T06:49:38.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need to identify the source of the leak&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean everything in your driveway.  Use Gunk, water soluble, or the like and get the Power Steering Fluid gone.  Then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow everything to dry out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Validate any leaks...mind you, you have not started the engine since you cleaned EVERYTHING that could be consider oil out of the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now, start it and run.  You have talcum powder.  If you can't identify the leak you are throwing talcum powder around.  You are underneath the vehicle looking up.  You have a very bright light, even in the day, and are searching for a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will identify it and then ask another question about how to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the first step is identifying what part the liquid is shooting out of&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T08:59:21.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T08:59:21.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25079" CreationDate="2016-01-21T06:58:01.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some vehicles that require a FOB reprogram if the battery is not replaces according to a &lt;strong&gt;procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers have a battery replacement procedure so key fobs, stereos and clocks do not have to be reset after the replacemnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not validate a 2000 Jaguar but I can say a 2013 Jaguar (yahg-u-r) does require a process driven battery replacement to prevent key fob reprogramming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you call a local locksmith, they will probably know if you need a reprogram or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T06:58:01.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8944" CreationDate="2016-01-21T07:19:02.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's completely stuck! What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@paulster2 has very salient points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe through experience there is a very high likelihood that the piston is cocked in the bore of the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that you pop it out of the caliper and inspect the seal and the bore.  Many times we do more damage than we undo.  A cocked piston is not worth uncocking.  Push on your brakes with a rag or some wood in the caliper to prevent it from shooting across the room.  I've done that in the process of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;learning the hard way&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's out, do the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the seal.  If it's scarred even slightly, replace it.  In fact, replace the seal regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the bore, ensure it isn't scarred from your previous efforts.  If it's scarred, remove and replace or goto a machine shop to take out any burs from the bore.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain out all your brake fluid.  Just cuz, you are there and in the middle of it, this is your chance to clean out all the junk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Visually inspect the piston and ensure that cocking of it didn't damage the surface area.  You can use 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean up the piston if it doesn't have a ditch in it, if it does, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insert piston back into caliper, remember you have a new seal and no hydraulic resistance, only air.  Follow procedure from @nick.  Very slow, very methodical, if it begins to get cocked, back it out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**  Of note, getting the piston over the the inner seal of the caliper is the crux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*** do not use grease or petroleum jelly to reduce the friction of insertion of the piston into the caliper, brake fluid is not petroleum product.  They will not mix.  Use brake fluid as a friction reduction medium to get the piston back in the bore and over the seal.  Wash with water, brake fluid is miscible with water so water will get the brake fluid; off the caliper, off your paint, off your hands, off your shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get it over the seal in the caliper you are pretty much home free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleed your brakes and use a handheld vacuum pump if your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, you'll be able to fix this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T07:37:53.860" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T07:37:53.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25076" CreationDate="2016-01-21T07:26:38.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if anyone else has seen it or knows the manufacturer/series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ket.com/kr/main.ket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter the part number into the search field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Part Number - MG641029)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your connector will pop up and you can add it to your cart for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="59714" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T13:19:09.063" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T13:19:09.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25095" CreationDate="2016-01-21T08:44:34.500" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am presuming this is a gasoline engine.  If so, the symptoms sound very much like the throttle internals are dirty.  If gunge builds up on the butterfly valve, it can restrict the air required for a smooth idle when the butterfly is closed, so the engine ECU needs to open the Idle Air Valve more that it thinks it should have to and you get into a cycle of surging revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the large air intake pipe off the throttle body, you should be able to clean the internals with some carb cleaner and a cloth.  Make sure you don't add any dirt that can get sucked into the engine and damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T08:44:34.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T09:13:54.723" Score="3" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;is it ok to shift from 95 octane to 91 octane? as my car is suitable to use 91 octane only..but because of ignorance we use 95 octane from the start until now.my car is a 2003 mitsubishi lancer 1.3..&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14488" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T11:24:22.500" Title="Mitsubishi lancer 2003" Tags="|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25081" CreationDate="2016-01-21T09:15:48.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try metholated spirits. that should do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T09:15:48.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25104" CreationDate="2016-01-21T09:17:06.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's absolutely fine to use 91.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T09:17:06.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2016-01-21T09:22:18.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;adding a diode would probably be counterproductive as it will cause an extra voltage drop, I'd look into fitting a relay such that the socket was not connected during engine start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T09:22:18.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25152" CreationDate="2016-01-21T10:04:00.340" Score="11" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always felt that the Sequential Gearbox configuration is much much faster than a ordinary gearbox used in cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this design used ? Any advantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am aware that racing cars(touring cars &amp;amp; rally cars) use Sequential transmissions, but why not everyday cars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T13:29:27.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T03:43:00.213" Title="Why don't cars use Sequential gearboxes?" Tags="|transmission|sequential-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T10:41:29.773" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do i need to repaint it? Its peeled to the black with silver paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14489" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T10:41:29.773" Title="How does one fix peeling paint on a car?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T14:04:08.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25104" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:24:22.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Mitsubishi say the engine's designed to run on 91 octane then it's fine to put that in it. Using 95 octane will only harm your wallet as it's usually more expensive than 91 octane, it won't have any effect on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T11:24:22.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25117" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:36:27.077" Score="29" ViewCount="20569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold air intake must be one of the popular mods there is, and one subject to the most controversy as well. Manufacturers of such systems advertise 5-20 HP gains, yet there are claims that this mod does nothing and may even hurt performance (even tests with videos can be found online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoS8E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoS8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Do you really need this?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it the stock setup of most cars already contains a &quot;cold air intake&quot;, since the factory airbox usually sucks air from an area remote from the hot components, like the fender or bumper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the point of adding a cold air intake system to your car? Is the only point to reduce the air intake restriction by adding a gauze/foam filter, and since the airbox has to be removed, piping and heatshields are added to draw cooler air and prevent power loss? Does this mod ever give a measurable increase in power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T19:07:40.440" Title="When is a cold air intake system beneficial?" Tags="|power|torque|air-intake|air-filter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25119" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:36:35.520" Score="11" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was discussing where to buy car batteries with a friend who is a professional driver and who has briefly worked as a mechanic. He suggested buying from one particular shop for several reasons, one of which was that they have a high turnover of stock and that therefore the batteries haven't been standing as long on the shelves. The shop I'd been thinking of going to, he recommended against because selling car batteries is only a small part of their business and he expected the car batteries to be in less than ideal condition from having been in storage for a very long time (years, potentially).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this reasoning make sense? I thought car batteries only degraded and discharged when left connected for long periods, and so leaving them boxed and unconnected would not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few clarifcations: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These are all the &quot;maintainence-free&quot; sealed type of lead-acid battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's worth mentioning that this is Sierra Leone, West Africa, and most car batteries on sale are Chinese or Nigerian brands that are not on sale in Western countries. There might be minimum standards or regulations which would be taken for granted in some countries that aren't necessarily met here (my local friend is always very negative about their quality and jumps at the chance to buy batteries imported from countries with stricter regulations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures vary from about 15°C to 40°C, and they don't appear to have been stored in any particular special way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:07:52.247" Title="Do car batteries degrade when left charged, boxed and unconnected for long periods, e.g. in a shop?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:08:08.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point is to feel like you've done something cool to your car and freed it from the shackles of The Man/the OEM intake. The primary benefit of Cold Air Intakes is to the bank account of the kit manufacturer, the secondary benefit is your car making a nicer noise, if you like the sound of an aftermarket intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been a few debunkings of CAIs over the years, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xwNtjKT_1cA&quot;&gt;this is one of the more entertaining ones&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;All the investigations I've seen of CAIs have shown that they usually reduce power output. OEM air intakes are generally a lot better optimised than they look and there's a lot more room for making them worse than there is for making them better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The myth behind the CAI is that it lets you suck in denser (because it's colder) air than the stock intake, which, as you correctly pointed out, will already be sucking air from a fairly cold location. Cone filters are supposedly less restrictive than OEM paper panel filters but there's probably not much difference as the OEM filter will already provide adequate airflow for the engine in its stock state of tune. Few manufacturers are going to throw away 2bhp just to save 50p on the air filter. Changing the adequate OEM filter for a filter that flows more air will not make an appreciable difference because it's not a limiting factor on the engine's performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T15:27:17.270" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:27:17.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:19:27.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the acoustically engineered OEM intake and replacing it with a bit of pipe and cone filter is likely to result in a &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; in bhp. Most of the independent before and after tests done on non-turbo vehicles find that reduces performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:19:27.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25095" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:19:42.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've seen this caused by slight loss of pressure in cylinder(s)... its sometimes an early warning of more severe problems that are developing e.g. if there is some light damage to a piston ring or the head gasket that is going to degrade further if left unremedied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a compression test can rule this sort of thing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:19:42.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:32:57.803" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this mod ever give a measurable increase in power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: yes, sometimes it works well. But...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your picture is a good illustration of some of the problems with just saying &quot;cold air intake&quot; and expecting that to mean the same thing to all people.  Let's break down the pieces of the puzzle and talk about how those might help or hurt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Filter&lt;/em&gt;: notice that the filter in the picture is not a panel filter as many of us have in the airbox. If that filter is less restrictive than stock, that will certainly impede the intake's job of getting air molecules into the system less. However, is it still filtering out hazards to the motor?  Is it an oiled filter?  Will that oil get onto the mass airflow sensor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Piping&lt;/em&gt;: the actual path that the air takes is definitely important. Is this piping better at thermal isolation?  The engine bay is hot and hot intake air means less performance. Is the piping less restrictive?  Does the air flow better?  Does it flow too well (causing a lean condition)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Location&lt;/em&gt;: the intake in the picture appears to be a short ram intake. That means that it only reaches to the standard location of the airbox. Will it be drawing air directly from the hot engine bay?  Or is there another path for cooler air to reach the intake?  Would it get cooler air sucking from directly in the wheel well?  Of course, then you run the risk of sucking up water in a heavy rain....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, the engine is an air pump. If the intake can reduce restrictions and pumping losses, it's all good, right?  Unfortunately, even in the theoretical world, freeing the intake isn't going to solve a restrictive exhaust (can't get the air out as fast as we can get it in).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's talk two practical examples using my cars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1997 Acura Integra NA 4 cylinder. I tried two different cold air intakes on that car. Both of them seemed to make the car happier (subjective assessment based on a nicer sound). However, the power increases weren't really significant until I had replaced the headers and the exhaust system with stainless steel. The car sounded great, revved well and had a lot more pickup. There was every reason to believe that I'd removed several restrictions on a car that had originally prioritized quiet over fun. However, I'd also removed a lot of weight of metal by switching to stainless (those iron headers were &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt;). In this case, the CAI was part of the picture but not the biggest part. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2004 Subaru WRX Turbo 4 cylinder. This car has a reputation for ignoring CAI changes without a retune. The ECU simply recalibrates to match the increase in airflow, resulting in no increase in power. There's also a risk of damage to the MAF using oiled filters. There's also the reality that I don't need to worry about the same intake restrictions that I had on the Acura: I'm not just hoping air wanders into the engine with a turbo in the mix!  With this car, the recommended change is a less restrictive panel filter that drops in place of the stock. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, where does this leave us?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A CAI has a good chance of sounding cooler than a stock intake. It will definitely be louder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A CAI will reduce restrictions in the intake path. That might lead to more power out of the box. It might not. It might lead to engine damage. Caveat emptor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A CAI may increase risk of water ingestion. This may lead to hydrolock (a broken engine and many tears). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, like all things car related, it depends.  On an older car with a weedy intake and hot under hood temperatures, I would certainly try a CAI. On a modern car, I don't bother. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:32:57.803" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25616" CreationDate="2016-01-21T13:48:07.210" Score="10" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small batteries for Motorcycles and Lawn Tractors are typically sold with the electrolyte in a separate bottle and must be added to the battery at home before installing it.  I've never seen a &quot;dry&quot; car battery - they always seem to be full of electrolyte and ready to go at the auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the main reason for this?  Is there a fundamental difference between a small battery and a large car battery, or is it &quot;just the way it's done&quot;?  It seems like if nothing else, separate electrolyte would give the battery a longer shelf life, and make transportation easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMftS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMftS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battery with electrolyte bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Electrolyte bottle playfully peeking out from behind battery...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T00:00:23.393" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T00:00:23.393" Title="Do any car batteries come dry with the electrolyte in a separate container?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25112" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:07:52.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;All batteries have a self discharge rate. This comes form the inherent nature of their chemistry. Lead acid batteries are one of the worst offenders when it comes to their self discharge rate. The estimates are all different but between 5% and 20% of capacity discharge a month is the general consensus. Because the discharge rate is a function of current capacity the discharge is a decaying exponential. The battery will go flat eventually but the less charged it is the slower the rate of discharge is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing the battery to discharge while in storage is not inherently bad. What is bad is allowing a lead acid battery to go totally flat, ie 0V. This is where the damage comes from. If the battery didn't go below roughly 9v I would not be concerned about its health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:07:52.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25089" CreationDate="2016-01-21T15:10:39.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drown it in WD-40? It gets nearly anything un-rusted and un-stuck (though might take time to seep into tight spots - hence the idea to &quot;drown&quot; in it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T02:59:26.863" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T02:59:26.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:13:37.240" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, went to leave and my truck would not start. It is not the Battery. When checking all my fluids noticed I needed water. Pour water in radiator and it all came out under the motor area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14500" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T15:42:44.897" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T15:42:44.897" Title="2000 Dodge Ram 8 cyl Doesn't want to run, Have to keep foot on the gas" Tags="|starting|dodge|radiator|ram|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-24T05:20:34.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25132" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:36:33.900" Score="5" ViewCount="5791" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the front defroster of my vehicle seems to work by blowing air up at the window. The rear defroster seems to work having a bunch of wires that run the length of the window. My question is...  would there be any harm in just leaving the rear defroster on constantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3743" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T13:35:39.243" Title="leaving the rear defroster on constantly" Tags="|window|defroster|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25125" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:50:16.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you leave it on while the engine is not running, then you will quickly flatten the battery. Other than that, it will do no harm leaving it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will of course cause a small increase in fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T20:47:36.247" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T20:47:36.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2016-01-21T16:54:47.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only based on your question. The answer is yes. You can run an engine without radiator. You just need to find an alternative way of keeping it coolor you will end breaking it. It's not immediate, but once the engine warms too much it will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many engines that were develop specifically with this purpose in mind and only use the air flow to keep the temperature down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engines that I know are mostly used in scooters and cars. One notable case is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Beetle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original Beetle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14502" LastEditorUserId="14502" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T18:23:49.083" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T18:23:49.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T17:15:24.650" Score="6" ViewCount="4001" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started having the problem the airbag light started flashing, after a week or so airbag light stayed on. When ignition is on for two minutes I get five  (5) beeps Five (5) times for a total of 25. After 30 minutes or so the beeping will start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14503" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T16:33:03.930" Title="2005 Ford Escape airbag light &amp; beeps" Tags="|ford|supplemental-restraint-system|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T17:17:43.887" Score="5" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;Tata Winger can accelerate from 0 to 100 Kmph in nearly 19 to 20 seconds, which is quite good for this class&quot; - how is it measured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this by accelerating the car from 0 to 100 kmph on a particular gear, or is it accelerating normally using all the gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say, I measure that the car accelerates from 0 to 20 kmph in 5 sec. Can I extrapolate this measurement to calculate pickup acceleration of 0 - 100 kmph. Is a linear curve valid for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T17:27:46.280" Title="Acceleration pickup of a car" Tags="|transmission|gears|acceleration|pick-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25129" CreationDate="2016-01-21T17:27:46.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How is a 0-100 run done?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fewest number of gears possible will be used, because that's the fastest way to get to a given speed.  Engines typically put out their highest power in a certain band of RPMs, so you will accelerate as much as you can in first gear (to the red-line, or to a certain RPM where you know the power starts to decrease), then shift to second and repeat.  In these runs, you might only get to third gear - that all depends on the transmission and engine combo.  Unless you want a very slow time, you're not going to drive like normal where you would shift much sooner.  Normal driving is for comfort, less wear on the engine, and better economy - not for performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is a linear curve valid?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  The power curve, aerodynamic resistance, and any number of other factors are not linear so acceleration won't be either.  You can make an informed guess that's linear or a fixed curve, and it might be close, but it won't ever be correct for all cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T17:27:46.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25144" CreationDate="2016-01-21T17:27:51.927" Score="8" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;78 Nova but the engine is from a different car; casting # V0707CMH. I have a 350 with 305 heads. Stock valves, pushrods, cam, and lifters. The nuts on my stock rocker arms are in need of replacement; all studs are same height. I was going to just polylock them but thinking of going with roller rockers. This should give a bit more hp; +15 hp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to use the guide plates and girdle? And is the stock ratio 1.5 or 1.6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWYSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWYSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T19:05:56.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:22:11.847" Title="Roller rockers to a stock valve train" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|valve|sbc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25125" CreationDate="2016-01-21T18:17:42.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there are some downsides. First, most cars turn it off automatically so the manufacturer doesn't think you should leave it on all the time. The way the defroster works, it's a grid of thin conductive silver ceramic lines that are painted onto the rear window, before being baked on at high heat. In operation it is a high current device that on average heats to roughly 85°F (29°C). Something that draws a lot of current all the time is going to put a strain on your alternator and potentially your lights will dim at low RPMs as the voltage sags from the load. I would not recommend letting it run all the time as that defroster is placing a lot of unneeded load on your electrical system, and the defroster itself. If it's too warm, the unit may wear out a lot faster than it would otherwise. It wasn't designed to be run all the time, hence the auto shutoff, so I wouldn't force it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T18:17:42.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25140" CreationDate="2016-01-21T18:22:02.820" Score="8" ViewCount="6277" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been a few power steering pump questions lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard responders mention a power steering pump vacuum leak test to identify where air is getting into the power steering fluid system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've turned that over in my head quite a few times and am wondering how such a test would be performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the procedure to perform a power steering vacuum leak test?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there more than one way to skin this cat?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit: Add on questions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the tool used to create the vacuum?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it like a might-vac or something?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWXu0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QWXu0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T19:09:32.350" Title="How is a power steering pump vacuum leak test performed?" Tags="|troubleshooting|power-steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T18:59:02.630" Score="6" ViewCount="7520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Suburban and the alternator is making  a grinding sound. The Suburban still starts up and I am wondering if it could harm other engine components (like the serpentine belt) trying to drive it to the garage. Otherwise I have to arrange a tow. The distance would be about 10 to 15 miles to the mechanics. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14506" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:06:21.343" Title="Alternator grinding - Is it OK to drive to mechanics?" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2016-01-21T20:10:42.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe you can fit a a battery with more reserve power &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T20:10:42.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25138" CreationDate="2016-01-21T20:59:19.007" Score="7" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 LX. The radio was working yesterday and the charging outlet was working earlier today, but now neither are. Did some research and I'm assuming it could be a blown fuse. Are there 2 separate fuses that need to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:48:33.387" Title="Radio and Charging Outlet Stopped Working" Tags="|honda|audio|accord|fuse|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:05:05.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this online.... Should solve your issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OwFag.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OwFag.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:05:05.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25136" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:21:44.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are typically on the same fuse.  Charging outlet should be listed as a cigarette lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T21:48:33.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:48:33.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-21T21:41:32.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost never? Mainly because they're really a 'hot air intake system'. This is especially true for cars using forced injection due to the high under-hood temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reduce intake restriction look into a less restrictive 'panel' filter like a K&amp;amp;N. Even then, it really only matters if your car is intake (vs exhaust) limited and your ECU will increase fuel delivery in response to the additional air vs retarding timing or (for old timey cars) doing nothing, resulting in a leaner air-fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14507" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:41:32.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25133" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:03:51.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if it would actually pinpoint a leaking fitting/seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a hand vacuum pump with a reservoir you fill the system and apply ~20inHg. Repeat until you stop seeing fluid entering the reservoir. Leave the vacuum on the system and walk away for 5 or so minutes. If pressure doesn't drop you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally if you don't see a fluid leak, look at the return side fittings and rack seals. When fluid is flowing it can create a low pressure vacuum leak and draw in air without any actual fluid leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTEY2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTEY2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T22:52:57.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T22:52:57.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25075" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:27:02.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should list the body style, things can be different depending on body style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some Hondas there will be a brake light failure sensor somewhere in the back of the car either in the trunk or behind a light. Looking at a wiring diagram there seems to be one behind the left tail light on your Accord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the fuse installed test for power on the green-white wire (input voltage). If power exists and the brake switch is in the open position/pedal not depressed. Than it may likely be a fault in the multiplex unit/fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T22:27:02.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25125" CreationDate="2016-01-21T22:41:30.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen GMs that burn up/melt the passenger side relay block/trunk fuse panel. Due to the rear defroster being run constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T22:41:30.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25134" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:06:21.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a '91 Suburban with which the alternator was making noises like you are suggesting. This Suburban was new enough to have a serpentine belt, like yours. I let it go too long and the alternator seized up. When this happened the force was enough to stop the engine dead in its tracks. Yes, the serpentine belt has that much grip ... I was quite surprised. This is the main thing you'd see if your alternator were to seize up while you are driving it. If you took the belt off from there, the water pump would not be running if you ran the engine, so you'd have to be aware of overheating. &lt;strong&gt;This endeavor did no damage to any other part of the vehicle, including the serpentine belt&lt;/strong&gt; (I just reused it when I put the new alternator on). I did have to leave the vehicle at the side of the road and make a trip to the parts store and back. The new alternator took about 15 minutes to change and it was back on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this happens to be an idler or tensioner pulley which is making all the noise, your main issue is going to be is it will throw the belt off of the accessories if one of them were to fail. This could cause an issue with overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, you probably wouldn't have an issue with driving to the mechanic to get it fixed, but there is always the probability it won't last. You'll have to weigh your pain threshold and see if it is something you are willing to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:06:21.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:22:11.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vemp-0703-corvette-rocker-arms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; (and my knowledge, lol) the stock rocker arm ratio of most stock small block Chevy's is 1.5:1. Polylocks should work just fine. Whether you need the guide plates is completely up to what type of roller-rockers you get. If they are non-self aligning (NSA), you'll need the guide plates. If they are self aligning, you won't. My recommendation between the two is to get the NSA type and run the guide plates. The self aligning ones are very noisy. Also, if you go with guide plates, ensure you get ones sized to fit your push rods. You don't want a lot of slop between the guides and the plates or it defeats the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting the roller-rockers and don't know how to tell if they are self aligning, here are some images of the two types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTZ26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BTZ26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the tip of this Scorpion rocker, you'll see what kind of looks like o-rings between the roller tip and the body of the rocker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01W9T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01W9T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a side-by-side comparison of the same rocker with the one on the left being self-aligning and the one of the right NSA. You can see the small tabs which hang down on either side of the roller tip on the left and the right without. There may be other &quot;types&quot; which will keep the rocker aligned, but this is &lt;em&gt;kind of&lt;/em&gt; what you'd be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:22:11.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25095" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:22:31.247" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely emissions.  Some (most) stuff burns off better at higher RPM (for example CO).  Controller will drop down RPM when it can.  Or you controller is just having problems.  If you put the car in neutral you will put less load on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:22:31.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25128" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:33:02.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Escapes are known to have an issue with the seat connection on the passenger side. This is the connection which goes to the seat to see if someone is sitting in the seat (if nobody's in the seat, the pass side air bag won't deploy). Under the seat there is a wire which will go down from the seat bottom to about the middle underneath of it. Try to see if pulling this apart and putting it back together has any affect on the bag light. It's the connector itself which has the issue, so inspect the connectors on both sides to see if you can tell an obvious issue. You might also try to jump the two wires from one connector to the other. The &quot;easy&quot; fix (if there is an issue here) is to remove the connector and connect the two wires directly to their mates (from seat to floor, not the two floor or two seat wires together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:33:02.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:46:25.230" Score="6" ViewCount="7592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a '94 jeep cherokee 4.0 liter. The 27 code indicates the injector circuit is not syncing with the input signal. How do I trouble shoot this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14510" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T17:57:05.440" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:40:51.420" Title="Fault code 27 with engine light on '94 Jeep Cherokee" Tags="|troubleshooting|jeep|cherokee|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25089" CreationDate="2016-01-22T00:37:11.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I have gotten sunken engines working. Literally pour gallons of Diesel fuel inside everywhere... In through carburateur,  Oil filler, literally fill it... Diesel work just like wd40... Let it sit a few days, then take heads and spark plugs out. drain the diesel out, just leave the 4 quarts or so in oil pan. Try to move it once with the wrench attach to the flywheel. Now if the engine was in good shape it might actually start turning. But your rings and bearing are probably bad, so you have to rebuild it anyway. So best to start taking it apart. Heads off first, then front cover. Then the crank. The goals is to do the least... but who knows how bad it was to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14512" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T00:37:11.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25562" CreationDate="2016-01-22T00:57:00.217" Score="16" ViewCount="9224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard the term A/R ratio today while watching a video about turbochargers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does the term A/R ratio mean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it just apply to turbos? If not, what else does it apply to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is it computed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is it important?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T23:02:32.130" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:24:24.230" Title="What is an A/R ratio?" Tags="|engine-theory|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18125" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:00:21.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and I replaced the DRI er side valve cover the OEM cover has a round hole about e the lifter which squirts oil into your pcv and suck into your intake. The new modified valve cover mover the hole and uses lips around the square hole to divert the oil away from your PVC intake. The pcv intake on my Silverado is a fixed orifice on the intake valve. Also I used an and plug in to disable the AFM which I hated. Truck has 165k miles and burns less than a half quart in 3000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14514" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T01:00:21.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25108" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:00:28.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some cars have&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was 50's era MG that used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couple of model years of Toyota MR2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://oppositelock.kinja.com/why-the-smg-m3-is-the-best-m3-1596497374&quot;&gt;E46 BMW M3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reasons manufacturers that have used them and dropped them is user complaints.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It shifts hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The consumer isn't used to the idea of going down through all the gears just to get to 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's louder and sounds unnerving&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In BMW's case consumers where allegedly bringing in their cars for warranty when nothing was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are claims that they don't last as long as other transmission types although I am unable to validate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In car racing, they are very popular&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a website that builds them for various classes.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIA_World_Endurance_Championship&quot;&gt;GT1 and GT2 WEC&lt;/a&gt; are rife with constant mesh sequential transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://holinger.com.au/showroom/category/gear-sets-and-kits&quot;&gt;Hollinger Racing&lt;/a&gt; builds them to swap out the stock transmissions of various homologated vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But to me, an SMG is music&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T01:00:28.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8805" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:02:05.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so in a nutshell, at this point I went aftermarket with a system from Avital. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I could have went remote start only and used the factory fob, but since I used the whole security system included I had to use an aftermarket one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It connected to an intermediate module called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=undefined&amp;amp;year=2011&amp;amp;make=Buick&amp;amp;model=Regal&amp;amp;ps=1&amp;amp;s=0&amp;amp;c=0#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DBALL2&lt;/a&gt;. DBALL2 interfaces with the car's ignition disabling system and the Avital, to enable remote start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I don't have awesome pictures at the moment, I might have a couple on my phone and if so I'll post at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T01:02:05.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25150" CreationDate="2016-01-22T02:49:35.390" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/R ratio is the ratio of the cross-sectional area of the area where gasses flow and the radius of that spot from the center of the turbocharger. Usually the A/R ratio is constant along the channels where gasses flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In simpler terms&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The letters A/R refer to Area and Radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the radius of the turbocharger is greater at a given point, the cross-sectional area of that spot should be larger, to maintain a constant A/R ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if the radius of the turbocharger is smaller at a given point, the cross-sectional area at that point should be smaller, to maintain a constant A/R ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller A/R ratios optimize the turbocharger for quick response, but it reduces high RPM power. Larger A/R ratios have more boost at high RPM, but they have more &amp;quot;turbo lag&amp;quot; (delay in boost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turbochargers have two A/R ratios, one for the turbine side (exhaust side), and one for the impeller side (intake side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the intent of the turbocharger is to provide additional efficiency, or more low end torque, then a lower A/R ratio is preferred. The engine will be very responsive to throttle changes, with little perceptible lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the intent of the turbocharger is to provide maximum power for racing, then a high A/R ratio is preferred. It will present less back pressure to the exhaust side, and it will provide more boost without excessive turbine RPM. There will, however, be a more noticeable lag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T02:49:35.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25176" CreationDate="2016-01-22T04:06:04.420" Score="6" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my truck I have heim joints setup in the steering to provide additional strength. Currently I have a 3/4 by 3/4 heim with teflon coatings, and with the mud and dirt where I live, they are getting harder to maintain over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered replacing them with heim joints that have grease zerks instead, would this solve my issues regarding keeping up with the constant lubrication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUQnD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUQnD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heim joint with zerk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14517" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T17:01:10.550" Title="Heim joints with zerk fittings" Tags="|power-steering|lubrication|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25164" CreationDate="2016-01-22T04:21:14.710" Score="23" ViewCount="9543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm watching a TV show called Tech Garage and they just made the claim that an engines torque and horsepower curves always meet at 5252 RPM. Assuming this is true,  why does this happen?  Is it something designed into engines,  or is it just how the thermodynamics work out?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it is a result of design,  what about the engine is arranged to make it true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T08:04:51.257" Title="Why does a gas engines torque and horsepower curve always meet at 5252 RPM?" Tags="|engine-theory|thermodynamics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:10:06.703" Score="4" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 grand am 4 door automatic,everything works, lights, radio, windows,buzzes when key is in ignition. I hear nice noise, if it was the battery all the other things in the car would not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of problem would this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14518" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T16:51:57.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T16:51:57.423" Title="will not start, when I just had driven it about a hour ago" Tags="|automatic-transmission|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5676" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:18:43.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative is just covering them up with wheel covers (sometimes called hub caps, but wheel covers cover more than the hub). They can be had quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T05:18:43.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25166" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:36:21.033" Score="8" ViewCount="4636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am swapping the struts and sway bar links on a 2006 Toyota Sienna AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the first strut in place and started to put the sway bar link on but it does not want to line up with the mounting hole on the new strut. It looks like the link is about 2 inches too long, but I compared with the old link and they are the same length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car need to be level before this lines up? Or should I put the wheel back on and take the van off the jack / jack stand for this to line up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2700" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T16:50:48.460" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T16:50:48.460" Title="How do I get the sway bar link to line up with new strut and spring?" Tags="|toyota|suspension|sienna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22815" CreationDate="2016-01-22T05:41:53.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the time and input guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I only just realized I hadn't posted the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump he purchased (which did not directly interface with the electrical harness on the truck) came with a harness to splice into the trucks electrical lines (which it turns out we had done correctly), and another &lt;strong&gt;intermediary harness&lt;/strong&gt; to be used between the aforementioned harness, and the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump came packaged with a piece of paper stating in &lt;strong&gt;BOLD RED CAPS&lt;/strong&gt; that it was imperative to use this intermediary harness. So initially, we did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we noticed that the connectors on the spliced harness and the pump were identical, and tried connecting them directly. It worked! Not sure why the manufacturer thought this intermediary harness was necessary, but the pump and sender are working as new after a month of daily driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all the input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T05:41:53.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="392" CreationDate="2016-01-22T06:50:15.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines actually can last a lot longer than you might expect, even when burning oil and having bad compression. Just replace stuff as it stops working and hope you get enough financial resources to deal with it before everything fails in a big way. Spark plugs can last for years so long as they stay clean and undamaged. Air filters can be cleaned and reused. Never run super unleaded. Never use injector cleaners or any of those snake oil treatments they sell in stores. It's all bunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main critical things to keep an eye on are coolant and oil levels. Without coolant, your engine overheats and this causes lots of expensive and annoying things to happen. Without oil, you can spin bearings and generally weld moving parts together from friction heating. This is also expensive. Coolant leaks are much worse than oil leaks. So long as the oil doesn't gush out and lose pressure, it's fine. With the coolant, a leak will let coolant boil at lower temperatures, which can cause your car to overheat because it's all boiling inside the head instead of carrying the heat away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piston rings and low compression are not an immediate problem. Modern oils are pretty good at soaking up blowby contamination before they lose the ability to lubricate, and being down on compression will waste a little gas and cause you to be generally down on power but this isn't going to constitute an existential threat to your engine. Just keep the oil topped up and change it regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main worn engine problem you're going to have is a side effect from severe oil burning. It's going to cause deposits on the backs of the exhaust valves, which will eventually cause you to burn a valve, at which point you are going to be down a cylinder (assuming the valve debris gets swept out the exhaust port and doesn't fall into the cylinder). Oil burning is usually caused by worn rings, worn valve guides, worn valve seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you burn a valve your two options are to a) replace the head (cheap) b) replace the head and rering the engine (expensive). Replacing the head can be accomplished over the weekend (with practice) and you can easily limp around burning oil for a few years before you have to swap in a fresh head. Since a 4 cylinder head can be completely refreshed for usually a couple hundred dollars, this is a pretty economical way to keep a beater running. You just swap in a junkyard head, get the other head repaired and in a few years swap it back in again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that until you fix the rings, the oil burning and the smoke are going to be pretty disgusting. Also, burning oil kills catalytic converters and it's not really great for your hydrocarbon emissions either. People will hate you and you will feel ashamed for your sooty car. That being said, it's always better to be poor with a crappy car than poor with no car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note that there are multiple types of smoke that can come from a car. If you have a blown head gasket, that is different than smoke from burning oil. You need to fix a head gasket if it goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T06:55:41.227" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T06:55:41.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2016-01-22T07:18:18.053" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/power_and_torque.htm&quot;&gt;just math&lt;/a&gt;, and is because &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Mechanical_horsepower&quot;&gt;horsepower is defined (in terms of torque) as  550 ft·lbs per second&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single HP is 33,000 pounds moved 1 foot in 1 minute (as per James Watt, that's the average of what an actual horse can do). An RPM of an engine moving the same 1 lb would travel ~6.283ft (the circumference of a 1 foot radius circle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;33,000 / 6.283  = 5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1548" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T21:07:50.863" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:07:50.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-22T09:30:58.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The working cycle of an 4 stroke internal combustion engine is like:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1) Inlet of the fresh air&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(2) Compression&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(3) Working Cycle - expansion&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(4) Exhaust &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooler intake air is especially beneficial for part (1). Since cooler air has a higher density, it means that the gas velocities at the inlet are lower. Therefore lower pressure losses at the cylinder. More fresh air mass in the cylinder. -&gt; Potential for higher power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also the reason why turbo-charged engines often have a charge-air-cooler (CAC) is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the theory. I don't have experience on how much benefit a retro-fit device delivers in reality. Additional factors like the pressure loss of the system itself and the parameterisation of the engine control unit (ECU) might influence this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14526" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T13:52:28.370" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T13:52:28.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25161" CreationDate="2016-01-22T10:49:31.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bar will fit best with the suspension in it's normal rest position, i.e. if the car is sitting on it's wheels. As DucatiKiller says in his comment, the best method is to jack up the hubs (making sure to put the jacks under a solid casting, so they can't cause any damage to the brakes!) to simulate the normal position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T10:49:31.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25158" CreationDate="2016-01-22T13:13:06.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you can have a low battery and not be able to crank the engine, but still have enough to run some of the interior electrical parts like the one you mentioned. The fact that it's only been an hour since the car last ran makes the soft battery a likely candidate. &lt;br&gt;The key (as mentioned in the comments) is whether the engine is cranking or not. If it cranks then there is some other problem, but if not, it's likely one of the following:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Soft battery (Most likely)&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Bad solenoid&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Bad ground in the starting system&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Intermittent starter connection &lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Bad starter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the problem is a soft battery, and nothing electrical was left on during that hour, you might have a bad alternator that's not charging the battery well. The easy way to tell if it's the battery or not is to measure the voltage across it with everything turned off. To be really sure nothing is pulling current from it, disconnect the negative and then the positive battery leads. Now measure the voltage across it. If it's below 12 volts DC, this is your likely problem. Here's a chart of battery voltage as an indicator of charge state:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbfUl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbfUl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battery Voltage vs charge state&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I hope that helps to at least get you pointed in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T13:22:14.223" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T13:22:14.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23586" CreationDate="2016-01-22T13:32:32.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This exact same issue happened with me in a Ford Focus. As rpmerf said, check the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, after removing the terminals from the battery and reseating them, the car cranked over fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T13:32:32.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="430" CreationDate="2016-01-22T15:23:31.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run an enormous race radiator with high flow spal fans, an oil cooler and an oil cooler fan and it keeps the coolant and oil at exactly 180-185F around town or on the highway, regardless of ambient temperature, even if I run the fans unnecessarily. Why doesn't it overcool? Thermostats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It 100 percent doesn't matter how much radiator you run so long as your thermostat is working. That's how a car's cooling system works- the coolant circulates in the engine until it gets too hot and then a little is sent to the radiator and replaced with cooler coolant from the radiator. When the coolant comes down to below a certain point, the thermostat closes again. The water pump is always running and the radiator should usually (especially in cold weather) have plenty of excess cooling capacity. This is intentionally how the system is supposed to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T15:23:31.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-22T15:36:43.277" Score="3" ViewCount="29264" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car started fine a couple of days ago and today when I went to start it, it won't even turn over. The lights work, the battery is only a year old. Not sure where to check next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14531" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T15:54:26.613" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T03:49:41.567" Title="Hyundai Accent starting issue" Tags="|starting|hyundai|accent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-22T15:54:01.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It depends.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just because an intake can flow more air mass doesn't guarantee that the engine will utilize it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake is part of a system of components. The engine produces power by managing air flow into and out of the combustion chamber. There are usually other actors involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Intake side&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Carburetors, throttle bodies, intake manifolds, intake valves, crankcase vacuum...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exhaust side&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Exhaust valves, headers, resonators, catalytic converters, mufflers...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential of any engine will be held back by the component that is acting as the greatest bottleneck to air flow, much like how the reliability of a system of components will be limited by the one that is least reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, what &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25117/675&quot;&gt;@BobCross says&lt;/a&gt; should not surprise anyone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the intake is bottlenecking a vehicle's performance, a CAI will make it look like a hero&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T15:54:01.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25175" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:32:55.357" Score="9" ViewCount="4385" Body="&lt;p&gt;In four cylinder engines, why are some cars designed with the exhaust manifold towards the front of the car while other cars have it towards the back? Is there any advantage in one design over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Toyota Corolla has the exhaust manifold toward the back while the Ford Focus has it in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pmNv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pmNv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Corolla Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Toyota Corolla Engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5FcE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5FcE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Focus Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ford Focus Engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14534" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:11:16.410" Title="Location of exhaust manifold" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:41:11.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see anyone mention it but I believe any increase in power would only be at wide-open throttle (WOT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are racing or really aggressively pulling away from stop lights or accelerating, maybe it helps. Day-to-day driving at less than WOT the engine management system will keep the air-fuel ratio at an acceptable value. If it doesn't get enough air, it will either reduce the fuel or open the throttle a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you need more power you just press the gas pedal a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14535" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T18:27:24.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:27:24.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25173" CreationDate="2016-01-22T16:48:42.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to how the engineer designs it. The manufacturer sets how it's going to be put together. There's no real inherent design differences +/- ... It could come down to whether they want a turbocharger in front of the engine where it's easier to get to and where there might be more space. It could be that the design of a transmission limits space to one side or the other. There are little trade offs to doing it on one side or the other, but nothing which is earth shattering or where it really &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to be done that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T16:48:42.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25156" CreationDate="2016-01-22T17:01:10.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. The great thing about having the zerks is when you put fresh grease in, the old grease comes out. With the old grease comes any dirt and grime which may have collected. This should keep your heim joint in good stead. Most heim joints are completely rebuildable, meaning you can take them apart, clean them, regrease, then put them back together. You may want to try this route before you try replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T17:01:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25147" CreationDate="2016-01-22T17:38:22.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be any number of things, a bad injector, broken wire, or a loose or corroded connector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by checking the connections to all the injectors. Make sure there's no crud in the connector and that it's making good contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention whether there are any other symptoms beyond the error code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T17:38:22.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25173" CreationDate="2016-01-22T17:45:39.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhaust at the front is the traditional arrangement, it allows the exhaust to be cooled by the air that's come through the radiator (ok, not cold air but still cooler than the exhaust) and allows an exhaust of a given length to be straighter when running beneath the car. Historically (like, in the 90s) intake manifolds have tended to be broader (in terms of the distance between the cylinder head and the opposite side of the manifold) than the exhaust which allows the whole drivetrain and front wheels to be placed closer to the nose of the car. The downside is that the engine has to be placed higher up to allow the exhaust to run beneath it which raises the car's centre of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust at the back allows a lower placing of the engine which lowers the car's centre of gravity and current intake manifold designs are (from what I've seen) less bulky than their predecessors so the drivetrain can still be kept close to the nose of the car. In designs that utilise a front subframe, the whole subframe can be placed lower as there's no need to leave space for the exhaust to run beneath it. The disadvantages are that there's a lot less of a breeze to cool the exhaust and it's much harder to get at when it needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T17:45:39.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:31:35.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding to Marks great answer above: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although horsepower is defined in terms of torque, horsepower is the more useful measure of an engines output when it comes to trying to figure out how fast your car will be, assuming you have an appropriate transmission. A transmission alters the torque output, but leaves the horsepower unchanged (neglecting friction losses, etc.). Therefore, the old saying &quot;horsepower sells cars, torque wins races&quot; is actually completely false in theory. A hypothetical engine that made 1000ft-lbs of torque, but only revved to 10 RPM would result in a painfully slow car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For actual cars, though, people rarely ever discuss the actual horsepower or torque curves. They usually only talk about peak horsepower or peak torque. Cars with high torque usually produce it in the lower end, and this also raises the horsepower in the lower end. Because horsepower is related to RPM, peak horsepower typically comes at high RPMs. Therefore, a 'high torque' engine may have the same peak HP as a 'low torque' engine, but the high torque engine will have more horsepower in the lower end of the RPM range. Because of this, the car will be faster - but people who only consider peak values will say that this is due to the torque, when really it is due to a broad horsepower band. Remember - any engine can in theory produce an arbitrarily large amount of torque after being routed through a transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a simple hypothetical example, consider an engine A with a typical horsepower curve, then imagine an engine B with the same exact horsepower curve, but scaled x2 on the RPM axis. If engine A produced peak HP at 5,000 RPM, engine B would produce peak HP at 10,000 RPM. If engine A produced 90 HP at 2,000 RPM, engine B would produce 90 HP at 4,000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, imagine routing engine B through a frictionless transmission with a 2:1 ratio. This will effectively slow down engine B, so that the features of the transmission-modified horsepower curve now occur at the same rotational speeds as engine A. Engine B is now producing the same exact torque and horsepower output as engine A after the transmission, despite the fact that engine B would clearly have less torque before the transmission. (Again, see Marks great explanation of the math)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:31:35.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25183" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:36:01.810" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;a mechanic asked me this and I didn't know the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14540" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:41:20.433" Title="What &quot;type&quot; of engine does a Ford Fiesta, 2008, style climate D, 1.4 TDCi have?" Tags="|engine|ford|car|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-01-22T21:42:53.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25171" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:36:56.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You indicated above that there is 'soft clicking' when you try and start the car. My bet is a weak battery - you can still have headlamp power, but not enough charge in the battery to turn over the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this, turn on the headlamps and have someone stand in front and observe the lights as you turn the key to start - if the headlamps dim way down, it's most likely a weak charge of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also just go ahead and try and jump it - it won't hurt anything if your battery is charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check your fuses - there will be a large fuse (~20 amps or more) for the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:36:56.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25181" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:41:20.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little unclear what you're asking for, but your car has this engine: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_DLD_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ford DLD&lt;/a&gt;.  It is a inline, 4 cylinder Diesel engine with a turbocharger, but it most likely doesn't have an intercooler.  The 1.4 part is the &quot;displacement&quot; of the engine, and it is basically the &quot;size&quot; of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This model engine is referred to as &quot;DV4 TD&quot; or &quot;DLD-414&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:41:20.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25186" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:43:41.307" Score="5" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the engine made by Peugeot or Ford? Apparently if it's Peugeot, it could be prone to the turbo failing due to engine fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14540" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T19:02:53.950" Title="Is the Ford Fiesta 2008, style climate D, 1.4 TDCi engine made by Peugeot?" Tags="|ford|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25184" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:02:53.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly, the engine was designed by Peugeot/Citroen (PSA) but made by Ford in Ford’s London factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_HDi_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_HDi_engine&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratorq_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratorq_engine&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T19:02:53.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25173" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:11:16.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though an automotive manufacturer may have dozens of models of vehicles, many of them share the main engine design.  In particularly compact and low cost vehicles the engine is often chosen because they already make so many of them that it's the cheapest engine that meets the requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is particularly true when a new model is being introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without looking further into the specific details of these vehicles, it is quite possible that the engine chosen for these models as well as the engine configuration in conjunction with the transmission and drive components, necessitated a particular exhaust manifold design.  Otherwise they would have had to redesign significant parts of the engine.  This would raise the cost of the vehicle, reduce its reliability, and increase the service cost due to additional new parts that service places would have to store, order, manage, and install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:11:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:35:36.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for fun, I did some math in google, to show that this is an artifact of the unit system being used to put numbers to torque and power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number 5252 can be calculated as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 horsepower / 1 lbf foot radian in turns/minute&#xA;5 252.11312&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact number is 16,500/π (33,000/τ)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the math were done in metric units instead (watts, and and newton-meters for torque), you would get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 W / 1 N m rad in turns/minute&#xA;9.54929659&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This number happens to be 30/π (or 60/τ), due to the number of seconds in a minute. If you measured engine rotation speed in radians/second, the number would become &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;. The same would apply to the non-metric system, if foot-pounds were used instead of horsepower to measure engine power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the &quot;curves meet&quot; is entirely an artifact of placing both quantities (measured in horsepower and pound-feet) on the numerically same scales on the axis of a graph. If you graphed them against each other rather than against RPM, this would instead show up in that some point (corresponding to 5252 RPM) would show up at a point where the power in horsepower and the torque in pound-feet are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11321" LastEditorUserId="11321" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T20:44:23.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:44:23.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25171" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:39:27.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the it will be a flat battery, since a flat battery will usually caused a repeated clicking of the starter solenoid and a flickering of the dash lights when you turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the contacts on the relay you can hear clicking are faulty, so there is no power getting to the starter solenoid, or the control wire on the starter solenoid has disconnected, or possibly the starter solenoid is faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can identify the starter relay in the fuse box, you could try swapping it for an identical one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check also that the thin wire is securely connected to the starter solenoid on the side of the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try connecting a wire directly from the battery positive terminal to the small control connector on the solenoid to see if it then operates.  Make sure the car can't move if you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:39:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25198" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:14:59.213" Score="6" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are external combustion engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of external combustion engines are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are all the common advantages and disadvantages of external combustion engines in comparison to the much more common internal combustion engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T23:06:13.293" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T01:25:48.277" Title="External Combustion Engines - What are these things?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25199" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:23:04.400" Score="6" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that steam engines are considered to be old fashioned, impractical and rarely used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are they considered impractical therefore rarely used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How exactly might a steam engine work to power a car as a replacement for the internal combustion engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made the assumption that it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T22:29:51.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T18:41:41.363" Title="Steam Engines - What are these things?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25193" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:29:32.963" Score="8" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone I knew when I was younger converted a car to run on compressed natural gas (CNG) because CNG was extremely cheap in comparison to petrol or diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can cars be converted to run on CNG and how do they work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T19:25:29.870" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:39:08.897" Title="Natural Gas Engines - What are these things?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|cng|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25192" CreationDate="2016-01-22T23:14:46.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article pretty much covers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a7487/should-you-convert-your-car-to-natural-gas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a7487/should-you-convert-your-car-to-natural-gas/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not taking into consideration a source for CNG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a lot of money. You need a new fuel tank capable of holding pressurized gas up to 3600psi. A fuel regulator and new fuel injectors. As well as a tune so that you can run the gas without destroying your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does it work?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much in the same way you car runs on petrol, it can run on other types of fuel such as compressed natural gas, propane, or alcohols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On modern cars however quite a few changes need to be made software side to support a conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Fuel Ratio - On a petrol car a stoich AFR is 14.7:1, however on a car with CNG an AFR of 17.2:1 is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignition Timing &amp;amp; Fueling - A vehicle has multiple timing and fueling maps to take advantage of higher and lower octanes. So say you have a car with that uses a stock timing/fueling map and you are running a lower octane gas than recommended. Eventually you will encounter spark knock/detonation/pinging. Resulting in the engine computer shifting to a lower timing/fueling map to try and reduce the amount of knock to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand with a higher octane fuel you can run more aggressive timing/fueling maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine computer will have a default map based on the manufacturers recommended octane level. This varies by state/country, in my region for example this can vary from 87-94 octane. Note that you can purchase higher octane fuels for racing purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CNG has an octane rating of 130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD2 - All US OBD2 cars have Evaporative Emissions control systems. Liquid petrol releases fuel vapors. Now this would normally go to waste, modern cars however reintroduce this fuel vapor into the engine intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in the case of CNG the system is closed. EVAP systems are not needed and will need to be disabled in the engine computer. This however can cause problems with state OBD2 emissions testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How can a car be converted?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that self modifying fuel systems to support CNG is prohibited under the Clean Air Act &lt;a href=&quot;http://www3.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/fuels/altfuels/altfuels.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www3.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/fuels/altfuels/altfuels.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any change to the original configuration of a certified vehicle or engine, including alternative fuel conversion, is a potential violation of the Clean Air Act section 203(a)(3) prohibition against tampering (42 U.S.C. §7522 (a)(3)). The tampering prohibition is important because poorly designed modifications can increase emissions. However, EPA has established protocols through which conversion manufacturers may seek exemption from the tampering prohibition by demonstrating that emission controls in the converted vehicle or engine will continue to function properly and that pollution will not increase as a result of conversion. Please see the Final Rule and Information for Clean Alternative Fuel Conversion Manufacturers for detailed information about these protocols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various companies sell EPA certified kits that you can buy. Prices are typically in the thousands of US dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A tank capable of supporting 3600+ psi.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A heated fuel pressure regulator to reduce fuel pressure to 125 psi.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;CNG Fuel Injectors.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;High pressure hose &amp;amp; clamps.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A pressure relief valve.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some form of tuning/piggyback software solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where can I purchase compressed natural gas?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your area may have a station that can provide this service. Below is a crowd sourced map with locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cngnow.com/stations/Pages/information.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cngnow.com/stations/Pages/information.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What if my area doesn't provide a filling station?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home fueling stations such as BRC FuelMaker's Phill are available for purchase and will connect to an existing natural gas line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brcfuelmaker.com/en/phill-domestico-prodotto-brc-fuel-maker.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brcfuelmaker.com/en/phill-domestico-prodotto-brc-fuel-maker.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T07:57:21.493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T07:57:21.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25147" CreationDate="2016-01-22T23:40:51.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need either a digital storage oscilloscope or a noid light to test signal from the PCM to the injectors. If you don't have a DSO you will also need a multi-meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to disconnect an injector, check the connector for fit and check the pins for corrosion etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injectors have 2 wires. Shared power and PCM ground. Power will always be the same color/pin on the injector connector. The power wire should be battery voltage if there is &amp;lt; battery voltage you need to check the wire from the source in this case the ASD relay. If you have battery voltage at the ASD relay there is voltage drop. In which case you would have to replace the wire to the point where it failed, usually a splice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injector signal/ground is provided by the PCM. If you have power but no ground from the PCM you need to check the wiring. If the wiring passes all tests than it may be a bad injector driver in the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have both power and ground it's probably a safe bet to replace the injector that failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a DSO this is a sample waveform for a working injector. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WaITO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WaITO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you compare waveforms and if one is off than that's the one you concentrate on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:40:51.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15610" CreationDate="2016-01-23T00:45:58.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it's the alternator that's whining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your connections the Field plug on the alternator and the alternator to battery cable. There should never be zero volts coming out of the alternator. It will always be battery voltage or charging voltage. Test voltage at the battery. then at the alternator if the alternator show charging voltage there may be a blown fusible link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the volt meter on your instrument cluster shows zero the cluster/gauge may be bad. Or there is a problem with the serial data line between the cluster and PCM. Or there is a problem with how the PCM is receiving input voltage, probably from the ASD relay or similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T00:45:58.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25208" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:05:52.113" Score="9" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 VW Eurovan (T4) has automatic transmission and about 160k miles on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the transmission selector to move from &lt;kbd&gt;N&lt;/kbd&gt; to &lt;kbd&gt;D&lt;/kbd&gt; or from &lt;kbd&gt;N&lt;/kbd&gt; to &lt;kbd&gt;R&lt;/kbd&gt;, there is a noticeable delay until I feel the selected gear has actually engaged.  The delay is probably fairly small - less than a second, but it is more apparent than in other automatics that I have driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a habit, I tend to wait carefully until I actually feel the engagement before I touch the gas pedal; If I don't wait, the engagement happens with a jolt - I don't know for sure if this is bad, but my engineering instincts tell me these kinds of jolts are not going to do any good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A year ago I took the van to a transmission shop.  They did a fluid and filter replacement.  After that things felt a good deal better, but still not as good as a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to worry about these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a sign of impending transmission failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is there anything I can do to keep it healthy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission shop recommended yearly fluid and filter changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T02:36:10.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T16:33:31.467" Title="Engagement delay when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse" Tags="|vw|automatic-transmission|euro-van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25190" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:25:48.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heat engines&lt;/a&gt; (in thermodynamics) convert thermal (or heat) energy to mechanical energy.  Heat engines typically work by utilizing the expansion of a gas and/or liquid as it is heated.  External combustion engines are a type of heat engine where the heat is produced (by combustion - burning) outside of the engine itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/External_combustion_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia page:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An external combustion engine (EC engine) is a heat engine where a working fluid, contained internally, is heated by combustion in an external source, through the engine wall or a heat exchanger. The fluid then, by expanding and acting on the mechanism of the engine, produces motion and usable work. The fluid is then cooled, compressed and reused (closed cycle), or (less commonly) dumped, and cool fluid pulled in (open cycle air engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of an external combustion engine is a cylinder of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_locomotive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steam locomotive&lt;/a&gt;.  In a steam locomotive, heat energy is produced by combustion from chemical energy in the fire box.  This heat energy is transferred to water to produce super-heated steam which is fed to the cylinders.  It is the expansion of this super-heated steam that produces the mechanical energy to power the locomotive.  Using these definitions, it is important to note that the &lt;code&gt;engine&lt;/code&gt; is just the cylinders where the expansion occurs, and not the water boiler or firebox.  Thus the combustion in the firebox is &lt;code&gt;external&lt;/code&gt; to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;internal combustion engine&lt;/a&gt;, the combustion that converts chemical to heat energy occurs in the engine itself - that is inside the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External combustion - conversion of chemical to heat energy and conversion of heat energy to mechanical energy occur in &lt;strong&gt;different&lt;/strong&gt; places.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal combustion - conversion of chemical to heat energy and conversion of heat energy to mechanical energy occur in &lt;strong&gt;the same&lt;/strong&gt; place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T01:25:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25191" CreationDate="2016-01-23T01:54:06.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the early automotive days, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steam-powered cars&lt;/a&gt; were more common than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages of steam power for automotive use, as compared with the internal combustion engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inefficiency.&lt;/strong&gt;  In an internal combustion engine, chemical energy is converted directly to mechanical energy in the form of expanding gas combustion products.  Conversely in a steam engine, there is the extra step of transferring heat energy from combustion to superheat water, and then the expansion of the superheated water to steam to produce mechanical energy.  Typically any conversion of energy from one form to another will incur energy losses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight.&lt;/strong&gt;  External combustion and the extra energy transfer to water/steam requires extra hardware.  This all adds significant weight to produce the same amount of power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow start.&lt;/strong&gt;  Even with a flash boiler, it will be necessary to wait some time for the water to be heated to the point where it can produce useful mechanical energy.  In the early days of internal combustion engines, this was not much of a differentiator due to the inconvenience/danger associated with hand-cranking.  However starter motors have since made this a big win for the internal combustion engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water supply.&lt;/strong&gt;  Large amounts of water must either be carried, or there must be on-board condenser equipment to re-use water.  Either way this also adds up to significant extra weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these disadvantages, it is entirely possible for cars to be powered by steam.  It is simply more economical and convenient to use an internal combustion engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T18:41:41.363" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T18:41:41.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25191" CreationDate="2016-01-23T02:33:59.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, you see, the internal combustion engine replaced the steam engine to power vehicles of all kinds. It was originally used in locomotives in the 1800s to connect the east cost of the US to the west coast. They also powered paddle wheel boats up the Mississippi and allowed for powered crossings of the Atlantic Ocean. But enough of the history lesson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some inherent downfalls to using steam to power a car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Startup Time&lt;/strong&gt; - We are used to getting into a car, starting it up, and relatively quickly just going. In a steam powered vehicle, you have to warm up the boiler before you can start using it. It has to get warm enough to create steam in which will drive the engine. Depending on the model of steam engine, this could take an hour or longer to occur. There's no just jumping into the car and going to the store. There is a notable exception which was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doble_steam_car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doble Steam Car&lt;/a&gt; which had a specific gas burner and small tubing which only contained a small amount of water at a give time. This allowed for the water to flash to super hot steam in short order. The start-up time on this was relatively short. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big and Bulky&lt;/strong&gt; - A steam engine usually weighed a lot. This was due to it being in two parts (water boiler &amp;amp; engine itself). It took a lot of metal to keep pressure contained so it could be usable. In this age of &quot;smaller is better&quot; format, having the bulk of a steam engine would make it obsolete before it ever got off the design canvas. You could never get the aerodynamics which are seen today on cars with internal combustion engines. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dangerous&lt;/strong&gt; - Unlike modern internal combustion engines, a steam engine was dangerous in comparison. You had a boiler which would get pressurized very high (especially considering the metallurgy of the day). This pressure is what drove the steam piston. Plus you had an external heat source (fire) which also posed dangers. If a boiler were to explode, not only would there be shrapnel from the boiler, but steam and boiling water would blow every where in a given radius, causing injury to any in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low Efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; - It is stated that a steam engine only has a ~20% efficiency (not that this is too much different than a gasoline internal combustion engine). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One great thing which the steam engine had was you could produce gobs of torque with them. In the Doble Steam Car which was mentioned above, it had four pistons which powered it. With a steam engine, the piston could provide power on both the &quot;up&quot; and &quot;down&quot; strokes of the piston (this is a relative notion, as in this car the pistons lied flat to the ground). If you compare this to an internal combustion engine, you get power with each stroke of the engine, which means with the four cylinders, you'd have 16 power strokes for the four pistons over two revolutions of the crankshaft. With a gasoline 4-stroke engine, you'd only see four power strokes during the two revolutions of the crankshaft. This is a great advantage because along with the super heated steam, it provided upwards of a 1000 lb-ft of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T02:33:59.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25191" CreationDate="2016-01-23T02:45:36.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason steam engines aren't suitable for cars is mostly due to the need for steam engines to be run at a mostly consistent minimum speed, and they don't adjust speed very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steam engine do not need to be inefficient, but they do work best when under constant use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14550" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T02:45:36.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T07:52:03.253" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put in new radiator and sometimes the car will start, but not lately. It is also heating up quickly. I think that both the starter and water pump are not working due to some sensor or fuse they both use together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't know what could be wrong, any suggestions?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14556" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T13:42:07.113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T15:41:26.990" Title="98 Saturn SL2 Starter and Water Pump Will Not Work" Tags="|starting|saturn|sl2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-24T07:24:46.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T14:08:49.223" Score="8" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the steering ratio for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Focus_(second_generation,_Europe)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;European Ford Focus Mk2&lt;/a&gt; that was in production between 2004-2010? I can not find it anywhere... I need it for a research project. There is somewhat relevant answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/17867/3991&quot;&gt;about C-Max steering ratio&lt;/a&gt; but that is on a different &amp;amp; newer model so I suspect the Focus may have a different ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;: I found an article with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2013-ford-focus-st-suspension-walkaround.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013 Focus steering ratio&lt;/a&gt; and it says 14.7:1 which is the same like the above linked 2013 C-Max... however 2013 Focus is a European Mk3 and I need Mk2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?190520-Is-there-a-steering-rack-upgrade#post2096874&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A sweedespeed forum post&lt;/a&gt; mentions 13.2:1 for a 2009 Ford Focus RS. In case the steering was not modified for the RS version (the post notes 14.7:1 for Focus ST which most likely is a Mk3 and equals to the 2013 values above) then it may also be valid for basic-level Focus Mk2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T04:50:20.887" Title="Steering ratio for European Ford Focus Mk2 (2004-2010)" Tags="|ford|steering-wheel|steering-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25205" CreationDate="2016-01-23T15:41:26.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the no start you'll need to check wiring to the starter. You may or may not have an anti-theft module in your car. Is there a flashing security light when the key is in the on position? Is the battery fully charged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I would test the circuit, locate the starter relay. In your case it would be under the driver side dash. Pull the relay noting the position it came out, it's a 4 pin relay with a diagram on it. There should be always hot battery voltage on pin 30, key on ignition voltage on pin 86, ground on pin 87 - this is the pin that goes to the neutral safety switch, pin 85 is the relay coil ground, this is either controlled by the anti theft system or is always grounded. Note 85/86 may be reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the circuit to this point OK? Does the relay click when turning the key? Assuming the relay is good, try jumping power from pin 30 to 87 does the engine turn over? If not check the neutral safety switch next. Is the car in park/neutral/clutch switch closed? having someone help you, check voltage in and out of the neutral safety switch. In the case of an AT car both wires are purple. For an MT it's yellow in purple out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything to this point checks out look at the wiring on the starter solenoid. the small S terminal is the wire from the neutral safety switch. The 4 gauge cable is battery to starter and should always have battery voltage. If everything is OK try tapping it with a hammer. At this point though it's probably a safe bet to replace the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your temperature gauge make sure the coolant is full. Make sure that your serpentine belt is in good shape. Has the engine over heated before? with the engine up to temperature check for bubbling in the coolant overflow/reservoir. If it is consistently blowing bubbles you have a bad head gasket. How about your thermostat? has it ever been replaced? is it stuck closed? At operating temperature both hoses should be roughly the same temperature. If one is hot the other cold the thermostat may be stuck closed. In which case you would want to remove and test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an SL2 the instrument cluster receives coolant temp info from the pcm which receives voltage from the coolant temp sensor. A 2 wire signal/low reference connector. Both coming from the pcm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T15:41:26.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25197" CreationDate="2016-01-23T16:33:31.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;best guess&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I'd suggest the transmission is doing okay. Your driving the vehicle as you have been is not only good for your Eurovan, but for any vehicle in general with an automatic transmission. I don't think there is anything inherently wrong with the transmission from the way you describe things. This is just my opinion which is just based on your description. Just remember, anything is possible and your van is no spring chicken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do at this point is keep up with your transmission fluid changes. These will be important as you go forward. Does that mean changing it out every year? I'll leave that up to you and your pocketbook. You do, however, want to do it &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; as often as your maintenance schedule suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make it a routine maintenance item to check your fluid for quantity, smell (checking for a burnt smell), and color (ensure it stays the color it was after the change - I'm assuming red as that's the color of most tranny fluids). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last thing to do is to ensure you &lt;em&gt;pay attention to what the transmission is telling you&lt;/em&gt;. You need to listen and drive and know how the transmission behaves normally. If the transmission starts behaving differently, then you'll need to start worrying about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T16:33:31.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T17:49:50.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Pontiac torrent won't start. Brand new battery one week old, will not start with remote starter or either key! All the lights come on , radio and electronics but when I turn the key the final bit to start it .. Nothing happens ! Nothing at all no sound. This problem is on and off some days it's starting without issue and other days wont start ! Any ideas? And cost to repair? &#xA;Anything helps!! Thanks!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14559" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T18:01:07.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T19:34:35.973" Title="2006 Pontiac torrent" Tags="|starting|pontiac|torrent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25654" CreationDate="2016-01-23T19:08:31.333" Score="19" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be the first to admit that this one has been hard for me.  I clean cylinder heads, axle bearings, calipers, crankcases....the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be clear here.  I am not talking about professional shops.  I'm talking about all the people out there working on cars, motorcycles, snowblowers, etc...in the home workshops or underneath an awning at an apartment complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;solvent and a brush&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;water soluble cleaners like Gunk&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;all manner of nasty stuff&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last decade or so I've switched primarily to Simple Green.  It washes grease and buildup away pretty good.  I can then bake my parts in an oven I have in my workshop but I still use a bunch of carburetor and disc brake cleaner.  I get oil and various chemicals on the floor of my shop. I clean it up with various solvents and simple green. I wash it away. It's horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, I do this poorly.  It's better than most I've seen but at the end of the day I would give myself a poor rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to be told what a bad a guy I am. I already know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do want to know is how I can be more successful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to reduce my chemical footprint with general parts cleaner?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could be recommended to people who were apartment bound in terms of parts cleaning methodology and cleaners?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could I do with methodology to reduce my chemical footprint in a small workshop?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T21:19:11.177" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T00:29:46.930" Title="What's the most environmentally responsible method of car parts cleaning?" Tags="|parts|environment|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2016-01-23T19:13:30.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would still check to voltage at the battery as I don't like to make assumptions, but I would check the terminal battery cables and clean them and the contact points on the battery.  I'm fairly confident that is the issue, based on the description.  If they are the universal clamp together type, unbolt those and clean that as well.  All the pieces have to be clean for the voltage to flow well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend this type of battery terminal end for that reason.  Here is a picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZ3AH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZ3AH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use the red/green treated rings on the battery connectors to reduce buildup of corrosion, which is well worth the little money for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not the issue, I would look into the ignition key system on the column for an electrical issue there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T19:13:30.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25209" CreationDate="2016-01-23T19:34:35.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @James Drinkard to start by finding out if there is good enough contact between the battery and the rest of the car to support running the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing in particular to check, I know there is no noise when you try to start it, but does the voltage sag? You can have someone try to start it while you test the voltage (touch the probe to the connectors on the battery cables, not the battery terminals). If the voltage sags then the ignition is working and the problem is probably a busted solenoid or a connection to the solenoid. Given that it starts just fine from time to time this sounds like a bad connection. If I had to place a bet, it's a bad connection between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Possibly a bad ground as well. Start with what James gave you, and then try the voltage sag test. It will help you slice and dice the problem to narrow down what is not right..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T19:34:35.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2016-01-23T20:00:20.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case the battery charger is kinda like snow tires and synthetic oil; I like the extra assurance, but I can get by without it. Also, my wife owns a robot-fly-by-wire-electric-everything van that is particularly hard on the battery, and after replacing a third battery in 8 years I thought this might help with reliability. Given that the charger I bought has a de-sulfation feature I expect the battery to last a bit longer. Worth the money? Well, I do value reliability a lot, so for me, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14561" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T20:00:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2016-01-23T21:12:44.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Omg..a friend thought my car not starting sounded like a security issue with my key fob and recommended that I google my problem.  I have a 2006 Volvo S40 and I found others had this same exact problem.  I gave the screwdriver method a try and it worked! Crazy but so glad I found this exchange, thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14563" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T21:12:44.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T22:57:45.093" Score="6" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crashed my car :( Accidentally rearended a pickup :(&#xA;It's not drivable because the radiator fell out, but I was told by the guy who towed it that the frame wasn't damaged.&#xA;I don't know what to do with it now. I'd really like to avoid towing it all over the place trying to get the best quote, but I'm not sure I could get a decent quote from just the pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0WYKxtipNPVT0g4dEtMV2tJNnM&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0WYKxtipNPVT0g4dEtMV2tJNnM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's 2008 and has 60,000 miles and probably only costs 9000 or so, so if I'm not able to fix it for a decent price, I'd have to somehow get rid of it and buy a new one. Do you guys know what would be the best way to get rid of it to make as much money back as possible? I just put new tires on it too the day before :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14564" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T03:42:15.383" Title="How to get the most money out of potentially totalled car?" Tags="|mazda|repair|replace|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T23:03:58.013" Score="7" ViewCount="14479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my 2015 Hyundai Sonata last March (2015) and it has about 17,000 miles on it. I just found a screw in the rear driver side tire. Shows a slow leak when I took to a tire shop and they applied the soapy water 'test'. However, the screw didn't deflate the tire upon entry even after I had driven almost 50 miles before I saw it when filling up my car with gas. &#xA;The tire shop tells me the tire cannot be repaired due to sidewall damage. A friend tells me there is no way that the screw could have penetrated into the tire's sidewall. He says it wouldn't have been long enough to penetrate the tire's sidewall because there is a thick enough amount of rubber on the tread before it would get to the sidewall. Do I really need a new tire or should this situation require only a removal of the screw and a repair to the tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14565" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:18:34.840" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T00:24:08.940" Title="Does a screw in the tire mean sidewall damage and tire replacement?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25217" CreationDate="2016-01-23T23:27:34.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the screw penetrated the sidewall, and it leaks when you pull the screw out, then a tire shop cannot and will not repair it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sidewall of a tire is the &lt;em&gt;thinnest&lt;/em&gt; place on a tire. A 1/2&quot; long screw could easily penetrate through the sidewall. It is very usual for a nail or screw to enter a tire at any location (sidewall or tread) and not cause the tire to deflate. There is usually enough of a seal around the penetrating object to almost completely seal it. You can drive like that for many, many miles before you realize there's any kind of issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T23:27:34.400" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2016-01-24T00:28:14.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The firmware on the navigation system of my Honda takes over an hour to update. It's much &quot;greener&quot; to clip a battery charger onto the battery than it is to idle the engine for that long. I'm not sure I'll actually need it to charge the battery, though. Oh...I also use it to keep my extra gel-cell batteries charged, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T00:28:14.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2016-01-24T01:30:25.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes not everyone can just buy parts... So if I can just charge my battery up to start my car then it's cheaper than getting the battery. If the alternator fails before I can &quot;find&quot; a battery then I deal with that when it comes.&#xA;Also maybe more actual use is the do-it-yourself type because we learned that if I'm prepared I'm ready. Never know who may ask for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T01:30:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25216" CreationDate="2016-01-24T02:45:29.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the space you could part out the vehicle or sell whole as is. With that amount of damage I can see the repair value is high. If you need it gone quick you will get quick price. IMO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine 200-400&#xA;Transmission 150-300&#xA;Doors 70-100&#xA;Deck lid 50&#xA;Fenders 50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price can change but idea... These are typical junk yard prices. If you go this route then drain ALL FLUIDS yourself! Especially gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T03:42:15.383" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T03:42:15.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T05:48:57.740" Score="18" ViewCount="25677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got one question; I was looking over this car that I was going to buy and there was engine oil in the radiator. I asked the guys why it was in there and he said he didn't have enough coolant to fill it so he used engine oil. He topped up the radiator and topped overfill bottle with oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will having a radiator full of engine oil do any damage to the motor in the long term or short term?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14569" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T13:45:29.990" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T18:46:15.753" Title="Will having a radiator full of engine oil do damage to the motor?" Tags="|oil|radiator|oil-leak|motors|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-24T06:42:05.493" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be more concerned about whether engine oil is actually finding its way into the radiator from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is, this would be indicative of a compromised head gasket, warped cylinder head, or damaged oil cooler (if the car uses radiator coolant for cooling the oil). The first two items are not trivial to replace or fix. The third one isn't far behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider the seller's claim of topping up the overflow tank with engine oil to be legitimate, the engine itself should be fine, but the cooling system will need thorough flushing &lt;em&gt;at minimum&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T08:49:15.060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T08:49:15.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T07:24:50.197" Score="8" ViewCount="3083" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem is the 2008 chevy trailblazer 4.2 has a 3-wire crank sensor and the reluctor ring on the crank looks similar to a bicycle sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I did not look at the reluctor ring on the 2005 4.2 engine we installed (which I assume is different) it had a 2-wire sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So either I need to find a 3-wire that would work off a 2-wire reluctor ring or find a way to wire the 2 wire sensor into the 3 wire system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14570" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T08:29:36.890" LastActivityDate="2021-09-23T23:18:23.340" Title="Need help installing engine with 2-wire crank sensor into 3-wire setup" Tags="|chevrolet|crank-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-24T08:06:48.887" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The seller should not be selling the vehicle with oil in the cooling system&lt;/strong&gt;. That supposed &quot;quick fix&quot; should have been rectified at the earliest opportunity. Have &lt;em&gt;him&lt;/em&gt; flush the cooling system and put another few tens of kilometers on the odometer before you even consider such a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seller is topping off the radiator with oil instead of water, then he is either lying, incompetent, or was caught on the side of the road with no other options. &lt;em&gt;Leaving&lt;/em&gt; the oil in the radiator makes each option more likely in decreasing order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T08:06:48.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25210" CreationDate="2016-01-24T10:30:06.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're in a city those DIY car wash places with the coin-op power-sprayers recycle and filter all their water.  so that's a good place to clean the outside of your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;most places that take waste oil will also take dirty solvents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the best solution for contaminated paper towels is &#xA;landfill, incinerator, or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T10:30:06.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24802" CreationDate="2016-01-24T11:15:12.447" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is engine coolant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine coolant is a water and antifreeze solution. Because water has good properties as a coolant, antifreeze is used in internal combustion engines and other heat transfer applications, such as HVAC chillers and solar water heaters. The purpose of antifreeze is to prevent a rigid enclosure from bursting due to expansion when water freezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6Xts.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6Xts.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Cooling System&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the coolant is moved around the system by the water pump, it passes through two main components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Radiator&lt;/strong&gt; - The cars air intake is used to dissipate heat (which is easier across a larger surface area, higher fin density and thicker radiators - much like in PC water cooling). This is able to keep the engine coolant cool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Block&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the main part that the coolant is designed to wick away heat from, by flowing through engine hot spots and allowing the heat to transfer from the engine oil to the coolant as well in the process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What exactly are all of the disadvantages to running an engine when the engine coolant becomes too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, there are no tangible advantages other than saving a tiny amount of money on engine coolant. As you will see, you should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;never do this&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; due to the knock-on effect that it can cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the make and model of your car some of these may not apply, but in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water pump running dry&lt;/strong&gt; - They will destroy themselves very quickly without water in them as they are not designed to run without lubrication and sufficient resistance (much like the pump in a water cooled PC).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24559/how-exactly-does-an-increase-in-engine-temperature-cause-a-car-to-breakdown&quot;&gt;Overheating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - this is the main disadvantage, but this can cause a huge knock-on effect in terms of causing other damage within the engine. These include but are not limited to the following:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seized piston&lt;/strong&gt; - The piston will expand marginally due to the heat. As the engine uses such fine tolerances, this expansion can be enough to make the piston rub hard on the cylinder casing and make the crankshaft grind to a halt! This will be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive to fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hole in the engine block&lt;/strong&gt; - Realistically however, a lack of coolant will not cause a hole in the block. It could be caused from a thrown rod, which occurred because the piston in the engine seized during operation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warping of head(s)&lt;/strong&gt; - This can cause the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24683/what-exactly-is-a-head-gasket&quot;&gt;head gaskets&lt;/a&gt; to lose integrity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interior car heater will lose functionality&lt;/strong&gt; - The heater functions based on the engine coolant, as seen in the diagram above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission failure&lt;/strong&gt; - In some cases the transmission fluid cooler is internal to the radiator, meaning that a lack of engine coolant can not only cause the engine to overheat, but also the entire transmission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High pressure in hoses&lt;/strong&gt; - Radiator/Coolant hoses can burst due to the increased pressure in the cooling system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt; - To fix the damage already done to the engine at this point, it will be very expensive and you could probably justify buying a new used car instead!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T14:44:38.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T11:25:29.127" Score="2" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that BHP is the measure of power of an engine. I realised that I have no idea how the number (for example 540 BHP) relates to the engine itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does 1 HP mean one rotation of the crankshaft per a given time? Or is there some other way of defining it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do you define BHP?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the difference between HP and BHP?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T11:25:29.127" Title="What actually is brake horsepower (BHP)?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|power|acceleration|horsepower|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-24T14:12:17.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-24T12:28:32.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider it quite more likely that it was the engine that had been putting oil into the coolant.  Of course, it may also be that the seller poured some obvious &lt;strong&gt;additional&lt;/strong&gt; oil on top in order to &lt;strong&gt;mask&lt;/strong&gt; the defective motor seal, a very expensive defect to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14572" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T17:19:20.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T17:19:20.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T13:22:01.137" Score="5" ViewCount="4018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1133/what-would-cause-a-car-to-lose-power-a-few-seconds-after-starting-then-run-norm&quot;&gt;this one: &quot;What would cause a car to lose power a few seconds after starting, then run normally?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. The answers from that question didn't help me for my car and I am having the exact same problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda Fit GD3 which loses power after starting, then runs normally when the engine temperature is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;check engine light&quot; is off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery is brand new, and the alternator is still good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've checked the spark plugs and they are still sparking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ignition coils appears to be OK (doesn't have any cracks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also inspected the throttle body and IACV, and they appear to be OK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I double checked the O2 sensor, with computer (launchpro x431), it said nothing is wrong with the electricals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first problem I had after 10 years with this car. Does anybody know what could cause this problem on this model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T10:32:48.130" Title="2006 Honda Fit loses power after starting, but runs normally when warmed up" Tags="|honda|fit|jazz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25243" CreationDate="2016-01-24T14:10:01.830" Score="11" ViewCount="28427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24683/what-exactly-is-a-head-gasket&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I now have a fairly well-rounded understanding of what a head gasket is. I assumed that sometimes, when people would talk about &quot;heads&quot; that this was just an abbreviation of another term &quot;head gaskets&quot;. Apparently, this is not the case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly are heads?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clarification:&lt;/em&gt; Car heads, not human ones...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T03:21:25.583" Title="What is a head?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|head-gasket|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25262" CreationDate="2016-01-24T14:57:21.357" Score="12" ViewCount="60459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I learned that a number of things such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24445/what-are-performance-camshafts&quot;&gt;cam profile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17419/importance-of-engine-compression-ratio&quot;&gt;compression ratio&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;intake manifold runner length and volume&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can all effect the power curve of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XWip.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XWip.png&quot; alt=&quot;Power Curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly is the intake manifold runner length?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly is the intake manifold runner volume?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can the intake manifold runner length and volume effect the power curve of the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T14:29:20.547" Title="How does intake manifold runner length effect the power curve of a car?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|power|intake-manifold|power-curve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25266" CreationDate="2016-01-24T16:25:02.600" Score="8" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon the current weather in parts of the Northern Hemisphere, I would imagine there are some people suffering from all manner of cold related vehicle issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are some of the leading issues of getting a vehicle running in the cold?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can be done to remediate a vehicle so it will more effectively start in the cold?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What simple advice can we give to people to help them troubleshoot their vehicles if they are stranded in cold weather and can't start their cars?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T10:40:46.667" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:01:39.070" Title="What are common cold weather starting issues with cars?" Tags="|engine|starting|maintenance|cold-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25246" CreationDate="2016-01-24T16:33:36.110" Score="50" ViewCount="16350" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is stuck in snow and you don't have any chains, what can be done to get it out?  This can be an unnerving problem to have and it happens pretty easily with normal driving on ice.  You wind up in a snowbank sliding into it at 10 mph or any number of scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are some tools I can carry with me to help me get out of snow?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are some methods I can employ to make it easier to get unstuck in snow?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there some things I can do before it snows that make it easier to get out of snow?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T14:49:07.127" Title="What is the most efficient method of getting your car unstuck from snow?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25241" CreationDate="2016-01-24T16:39:44.633" Score="10" ViewCount="5764" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the water and snow in the coming days can make jumpstarting a car pretty unnerving.  With all the electricity in car batteries and jumper cables laying in snow and water, what are the concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I be concerned standing in slushy ice and water when I jumpstart my car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I get electrocuted while I'm jumpstarting a car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What precautions should I take?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does jumpstarting a car require a professional or can it I do it on my own?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the biggest safety concerns I should have while I'm jump starting my car surrounded by snow, slush and water?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T19:58:24.090" Title="What is the safest way to jumpstart a car surrounded by snow, ice and water? Can I get electrocuted?" Tags="|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-24T16:52:53.053" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it's possible some of the seals designed to withstand water and glycol could get damaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking you are creating a fictitious scenario here, so I'll roll with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you filled your radiator with oil and started your car and let it run for awhile I would be most concerned with damage to seals that were designed to withstand water and glycol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petroleum based products could damage these seals by penetrating and degrading them.  I would imagine that some manufacturers are using material that would not be effected by petroleum products and some are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assumptive on my part and I don't have any citations to back my concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside from the possibility it might damage some seals, I don't see engine oil doing damage to your cooling system by simply being in the radiator.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T17:20:04.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T17:20:04.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25239" CreationDate="2016-01-24T19:58:24.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no special safety issues related to snow and ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, voltages up to 48V are considered safe for the human body. You can touch both contacts of a 12V battery, even with wet fingers. (Did you never touch the terminals of a 9V battery  with your tongue? This hurts a little, but that's all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 12V car battery can deliver several 100 Ampere, but therefore, the resistance of the circuit must be low. For example, a resistance of 0.03 Ohm connected to 12V will sink a current of 400A. But the resistance between a finger of the right and a finger of the left hand is in the order of several 100000 Ohm for dry skin and in worst case may be 1000 Ohm for very wet skin. This causes currents of 0.00012A to 0.012A, which is still much smaller that 0.05A, which is considered as the threshold where current starts do be unhealthy. In absolutely worst case, you might feel the current, but usually, you will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for snow and ice, the rules are the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the other car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't short circuit the battery by any piece of metal, because metal &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; a low resistance. The current flowing can be high enough to melt the metal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to the polarity. Connect plus to plus and minus to minus (chassis) Doing this wrong results in a short circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect plus first via the positive battery terminals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect minus from the negative battery terminal of the running vehicle to a solid part of the chassis or better motor block of the other car. (In this order!) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to start the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's running, let it run for a minute or two. Then, switch on a high load like rear window heater or air blower. This will avoid voltage spikes which could damage the electronics of the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the clamps in reverse order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T19:58:24.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T20:11:10.410" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1987 F250 with a  1989 7.3 IDI swap, the truck always used to run great. I went outside to try and fire her up and she wont start. I've tried plugging in the block heater and using ether.  It still wont start up. Just put in new batteries so that isn't a  problem. Cranks over good with no hesitation and the wait to start light goes on for about 13-15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13470" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:17:03.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:17:03.127" Title="1989 7.3 IDI wont start" Tags="|ford|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25235" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:08:45.850" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Cylinder heads (commonly just called &quot;heads&quot;) are the big piece of metal which caps and seals the end of the cylinder bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Types of Cylinder Heads:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three basic types of cylinder heads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flathead Cylinder Head&lt;/strong&gt; - These cylinder heads were used on older engines such as the flat-head Ford engines (like seen below). The oval protrusion at the top of the cylinder head is for coolant flow. Coolant would flow up from the block and through passages in the head (between bolt holes) and out through this oval port at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KRsf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KRsf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overhead Valve Head (OHV)&lt;/strong&gt; - This type of cylinder head has been used extensively from the 1950s and are still used today. These heads have the valves located within them instead of in the block like the flathead. The valves are actuated indirectly from the cam through a valve train, which usually consists of lifters (tappets), push rods, and rocker arms. An OHV head usually looks something like these Chevrolet heads below. In the picture, the flat surface of the head (right side of the image) is the portion which faces the engine block. The left side is where you see the valve tips, valve springs, retainers, and keepers. On top of these is where you would see the rocker arms if they were installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwumz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwumz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overhead Cam Head (OHC)&lt;/strong&gt; - This third type of head usually has the camshaft co-located with the cam. It is called &quot;over head&quot;, because the cam actually resides over the top of the head. The OHC can have a single (SOHC) or dual (DOHC) configuration. (You can learn more about the differences between a SOHC and DOHC &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8137/4152&quot;&gt;in this SE post&lt;/a&gt;). Here are some images showing OHC heads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7O1t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7O1t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image, it is a little hard to see, but there is one camshaft (you can see the single gear to the left of the head) which extends the length of the head. This single cam shaft actuates both the intake and exhaust valves which are in the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7qU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7qU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image of a DOHC, you can see the two cam shafts (find two gears to the right of the head in the image). with DOHC, the valves can be actuated directly (as in this image) or with the use of rocker arms. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Anatomy of a Cylinder Head&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First let's explain the Flathead Cylinder head a little. Like I said before, it is basically just a flat chunk of metal which seals the top of the cylinder. In the image above, the top portion of the image (as I stated) is the flat part. The indentations in the head (the almost heart shaped portion) is the combustion chamber. This is where the air fuel mixture has room to burn when the piston is at top dead center (TDC) during ignition, between the compression and power cycles of an Otto cycle engine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To better understand what makes up most other cylinder heads, let's go over some of the basics (Note: some of these things were mentioned above, but I'll explain better as to what they are here):&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bare Cylinder Head&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the main building block of the entire structure. All other components we'll talk about are attached to the bare head in some form or fasion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve&lt;/strong&gt;: Usually buried inside the head, this is the part which lets the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber and the exhaust gasses out during that portion of the Otto cycle. The valve is actuated at the precise time by the cam shaft. Here is a representative image of a valve:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rK8N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rK8N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Spring&lt;/strong&gt;: This keeps the valve closed when it's not open. Valve springs can be comprised of one, two, or even three different spring portions (depending on the design need). Usually only very high performance engines need the spring pressures involved with three (or triple) springs. Here is a representative image of a valve spring (these are beehive springs, so called due to their shape):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Spring Retainer&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve spring retainer keeps the spring located on the spring. The retainer is located on the top end of the spring (away from the head). It holds the spring in place while simultaneously attaches to the valve via retainer locks (see below). Here is a representative image of a retainer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ7Dl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ7Dl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retainer Lock&lt;/strong&gt;: The retainer lock (or key) is wedged between the valve tip and the retainer. An interference fit occurs because of the spring pressure pushing up on the lock, the angle of the locks in relationship to the straight stem of the valve, and the small tab which fits into the valve. Here is a representative image of a retainer lock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rvdx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rvdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one half of a pair of locks. You can also see the angle which is created, along with the small tab which connects the lock to the valve stem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Seal&lt;/strong&gt; - The valve seal is located around the stem of the valve at the top of the valve guide (see below) underneath the valve spring. It provides a seal so as to prevent oil from leaking (or getting pumped) into the intake and exhaust tracts. Here is a representative image of a valve seal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Ctj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Ctj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image, you can see two valves (at bottom right and to the left). The valve seal is the spring which encircles the valve, the polymer piece underneath of it, and the metal which is below that. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Guide&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve guide does exactly what the name implies - it guides the valve. The valve guide is a separate piece of metal usually made out of cast iron or bronze. The guide is separate from the head so as it can be replaced if needed when a head is rebuilt. It is driven into the head and provides a way to keep the valve specifically located while still allowing the valve to move up and down during the open/close cycle. There are many different types and different applications for each. Here is a representative image of different valve guides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzgRA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzgRA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Seat&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve seat is a hardened material which is hammered into the head, then cut at specific angles to, along with the valve, create a seal which keeps the gasses during the combustion process locked into the combustion chamber. Valve seats are usually made of some type of iron alloy as this tends to stand up to the rigors of an opening/closing valve over its lifetime. You can find seats in cast iron heads (most of the time), but you'll always find valve seats in aluminum heads. Without these, the valve would move the aluminum out of the way and would soon be damaged. Here is a representative image of a valve seat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEpHo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEpHo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image, I've added two yellow ovals. The valve seat is located between the two ovals. The seat is the portion which is discolored and looks to be machined at an angle. When the seats are place, a place is machined into the head where the seat will later be driven into it. Then the seat is cut at specific angles so the valve will make perfect contact with the seat and create a positive seal. You can also see in the image, at the center of the circles, is the valve guide peaking out at you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spring Seat&lt;/strong&gt;: Depending on the head manufacturer and the head design, there may also be a spring seat, which can protect the cylinder head from being galled by the spring. As you may have guessed, the spring seat straddles the valve guide and is placed between the spring and the head. You'll usually see these on aluminum heads. In this area, a manufacturer can also place valve spring shims to set the spring height correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of most of the parts described above and how they all fit together (blown apart, of course):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QNCmT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QNCmT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combustion Chamber&lt;/strong&gt;: The combustion chamber is where all the action occurs. The shape of this, in addition to the valves and dome (or dish) of the piston, shapes how the flame front travels after air/fuel ignition occurs. A combustion chamber can be of many different sizes and shapes. It all depends on what is needed for the particular engine. Below is a representative image of a big block Chevy (BBC) closed port combustion chamber. In the image, you see the face of the intake (larger valve) and exhaust (smaller valve) valves. Just to the right side of the valves (at 4 O'Clock to the valves) is a threaded hole. This is where the spark plug protrudes from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHVFZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHVFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Skz1W.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Skz1W.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; basic OHV head. You can see the different parts of the head annotated for better understanding. All head with valves in them work &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; much the same way, but can be arranged in different ways as you've seen in the above images. Here is another image showing the cross section of how the valves, intake runner and exhaust runner may be situated within the head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2q1a.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2q1a.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake/Exhaust Ports&lt;/strong&gt;: The intake and exhaust ports are the part of the head which allows the air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder and the exhaust gasses to leave the cylinder. The size, shape, and texture of these can help or hinder how the air flow occurs. With greater flow comes greater power and torque. Here is representative image of a cutaway view of a port:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hZgt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hZgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra Bits &amp;amp; Pieces&lt;/strong&gt;: During the casting of heads, coolant passages are built into them. This allows the head to bleed off excess heat from the combustion process. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-08-12T12:42:46.217" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T12:42:46.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:25:27.780" Score="5" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mercury Marquis. When the temps were -20+ I went out and started the car often letting it run at 20 minute intervals. On the last day of the cold spell the check engine light stayed on. I did check the gas cap and it was fine. 4 days later it went off by itself. I didn't fill it with gas until after it went off.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What would cause this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had come on before and we reset the computer and it stayed off for months until this happened. I only drive it maybe 4 miles a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14577" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-24T23:14:59.977" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T10:27:41.777" Title="2000 Mercury Marquis Check Engine Light Issue" Tags="|cel|mercury|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25297" CreationDate="2016-01-24T22:56:29.677" Score="7" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I learned that even more things other than the ones already mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25236/how-does-intake-manifold-runner-length-effect-the-power-curve-of-a-car&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; can effect the power curve that is produced by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://craig.backfire.ca/img/powercurve-example.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example of one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are intake and outlet valves that can open and close at specific intervals in order for the 4-stroke process to occur inside the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What exactly is meant by cylinder head intake/exhaust port volume?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can this affect the power curve of the engine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T00:42:07.450" Title="How can head port volume affect the power curve of an engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|power|cylinder-head|power-curve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-01-25T00:47:08.800" Score="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; You can use a spade or similar tool in order to dig the snow out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some methods I can employ to make it easier to get unstuck in snow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there are several things that you can do or might want to consider if you are stuck in snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to Get a Car Out of Snow&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check the Exhaust&lt;/strong&gt; - Clear any snow that is covering the exhaust so as to prevent the build up of deadly gases within the interior of the car as the engine is running. They are only dangerous to people if the density of the exhaust fumes are able to rise in a confined space such as the inside of your car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Break the Ice&lt;/strong&gt; - You can use a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;screwdriver, penknife, multitool&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or any other sharp object to be able to break the ice directly in front of the tires. The rougher surface will actually help to increase traction as you start to pull away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove Excess Snow&lt;/strong&gt; - I don't know the severity of the snowfall in your geographical area, but if it is very bad you should try to remove all the snow from near the car that is above the ground clearance of the car. This might be easier said than done if your car is beached on ice, but in most situations this won't be the case. A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;spade&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;shovel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; would be the best thing to use for this if you are able to carry one, but if not then a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;garden trowel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; might be a smaller, cheaper and more practical alternative for you - especially if you have a small car. Another good alternative is to use a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;camping shovel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. These are small, inexpensive shovels that serve the same basic purpose as a regular shovel in this scenario (most of them also fold down, making them even easier to stow away discretely in the back of your car somewhere). They can even be tiny, as seen in the picture below (bear in mind that the smaller the shovel, the less practical it will be). Also a good thing to have for moving dirt or soil if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zO8OB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zO8OB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Camping Shovel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chains&lt;/strong&gt; - I know you said you didn't have chains (if you did you probably wouldn't be stuck in the first place!), but if you did then this would be a good time to put them on to give you some extra traction on the slippery snow or ice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a Plank&lt;/strong&gt; - It can be very useful to be able to stick a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;thin sheet of metal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;plank of wood&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; underneath each of the drive tires in order to give the car another surface to grip, rather than the broken ice that was mentioned in step 2. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Floor Mats or Door Mats&lt;/strong&gt; - If you don't have any space wood or metal that you can feasibly use (i.e. if you didn't see this post &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you got stuck) then you might want to consider taking the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;car floor mats&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; out of your car and using them under the drive tires instead. Do this only as a last resort as they will probably be destroyed! When doing this, be very cautious with the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Door mats&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can also be used, many people already have one, they are much stronger than car floor mats but will probably still get damaged to some degree or possibly destroyed. The woven door mats are cheap, and make practically ideal snow mats in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flattened cardboard boxes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; work just as well, it doesn't matter if they get destroyed and they are free if you've ever bought anything off Amazon or similar.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the Brakes&lt;/strong&gt; - Still not going anywhere? This may sound counterintuitive, but if you really think about it, one wheel is normally spinning more than the other because it has &lt;em&gt;less resistance&lt;/em&gt;. Pressing the brakes lightly will decrease the speed of rotation of the spinning wheel (by increasing the minimum torque that would be needed to spin each wheel due to the fact that the differential applies equal torque to each of the drive wheels in any car without any fancy traction equipment) and transfer some power to the other wheel so that both wheels are working to pull you out of the snow. Two wheels spinning slowly and working together are much better than if they were trying to work independently in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that using the brakes extensively can lead to overheating. If this happens, just turn the engine off for a while and let the vehicle cool down. If you down and your car finds traction, be aware that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;your stopping distances may significantly increase&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; until they have a chance to cool down again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check Your Fuel Gauge&lt;/strong&gt; - It sounds simple but you may get through a lot of fuel (especially if you have a less economical car) while you are trying to get the car out of the snow. If you know in advance that you are going to be driving in heavy snow somewhere on a long journey then you might want to think about bringing a &lt;strong&gt;jerry can with some spare fuel&lt;/strong&gt; with you in case your journey takes longer than expected. Being stuck in snow does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; help your MPG! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you should not carry fuel regularly due to its fun - &lt;em&gt;and potentially very dangerous&lt;/em&gt; - flammable chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sprinkle Salt&lt;/strong&gt; - The salt will help to melt ice, which tends to form when you spin the wheels (and that ice is probably the reason you're stuck). &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rock salt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is preferable, but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;table salt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; will also work if you use a lot of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sprinkle Other Stuff&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sand&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;dry soil&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (not mud!), &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;cat litter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or any other similar materials can all help to provide the car with traction underneath the drive wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spare Fluids&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have a means of obtaining hot water (melt snow on your overheated car?), extra windshield wiper fluid or antifreeze (be careful with antifreeze in residential areas, pets like to drink it off the ground and it will poison them, so don't use it where it will accumulate) in your car, that can help melt the snow/ice also.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deicer Spray&lt;/strong&gt; - Although I disapprove of the idea of releasing these sorts of harmful chemicals in to the environment where feasibly possible, you can - as a last resort - use a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;chemical deicer spray&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in order to melt the ice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Straighten the Steering Wheel&lt;/strong&gt; - Making sure your wheels are straight make it much easier for the car to find traction when it is stuck. Be careful to take not of any obstructions in case your car suddenly find traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a High Gear&lt;/strong&gt; - Gently accelerate until the wheels start to slip, then reverse, then forwards again until you have created enough room for you to pull out. Using a high gear such as 2nd - or even 3rd if your car will allow you to without stalling - will stop you from spinning the wheels as easily on the slippery surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let the Air Out&lt;/strong&gt; - Let some air out of your tires from the valve (see picture below) stem using a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pen&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;knife&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;multitool&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;car key&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or similar to increase the surface area of the tire in contact with the ground at any given time, thus increasing traction. You just need something to push in the center of the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLqmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLqmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve Stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Momentum&lt;/strong&gt; - You can rock the car using the power of the car, or the collective power of a group of selfless volunteers, or both! This momentum may help to move the vehicle out of the hole that it has inevitably dug itself in to by this point. It should be noted that using the power of the car to create this momentum by shifting quickly between gears should not be a first resort, as the transmission can become overloaded and fail when the momentum is shifted so quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the Steering&lt;/strong&gt; (front and four wheel drive vehicles only) - If you have a front-wheel drive vehicle and the wheels are spinning, turning the wheels in a different direction can give you the extra traction that you need. Many people try to get unstuck with a very turned steering wheel as if they want to re-enter the road immediately. This can make it harder, so the idea is to turn the wheel the minimum amount possible (i.e. straighten the front wheels via steering). The front wheels being turned a small amount can resist the limited traction available to the rear wheels in slippery conditions, so straightening out the steering can sometimes help a lot. Remember to accelerate slowly or you will end up just digging yourself in again!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lift and Fill Method&lt;/strong&gt; - If nothing else has worked thus far, the lift and fill method just might. You should have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a jack&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in your car anyway which is all you will need to be able to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear the snow, trying to make the ground as flat as possible to make it easier to jack the car up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the jack&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on a firm base such as the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;plank of wood&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;sheet of metal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or even an old &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hub cap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; should do the trick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack the most deeply sunk tire up as high as possible. Remember to be cautious as the jack can still easily slip in such slippery conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throw anything you can find (other than snow or ice!) underneath the raised tire in order to increase traction. Use anything like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a floor mat&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;blanket&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;salt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;sand&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or even &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;your spare tire&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; if there is enough room for it underneath the raised one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully lower the jack on to the pile of stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive cautiously out of the snow to somewhere where there is traction and don't forget to take away everything you have brought with you so as not to litter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TracGrabbers&lt;/strong&gt; - They are a product designed specifically for use when a vehicle is stuck and can't find traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install one TracGrabber on each drive wheel &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you get stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear any debris as much as possible that is making it harder for the vehicle to move such as snow, large chunks of ice or rocks from in front of the drive tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use just enough power for the TracGrabbers to be able to lift and pull the car out of wherever it got stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive slowly to stable terrain and take them off before you carry on your journey - they are not designed to be used for long distances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXEfJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXEfJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TracGrabbers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;20&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GoTreads&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUY8SH_iFpU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GoTreads&lt;/a&gt; are another commercial product you might want to consider if you live somewhere with very long, snowy winters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Work with Gravity&lt;/strong&gt; - Many people when they are stuck in snow will try to make the vehicle progress in the direction they want to travel. If you are stuck on an incline however, you shouldn't try to fight gravity! Try to apply power to the wheels using the reverse gear if at all possible so that you are able to use gravity to your advantage, rather than fighting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcExF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcExF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Incline Plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice here that the weight of your vehicle acts as a force vertically downwards due to gravity. The steeper the inclination, the greater the value of the force acting &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; you. In other words, the steeper the incline, the more effort you will have to put in to moving the vehicle up the slope. By moving down the slope in the opposite direction, you will have the same force acting &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloves&lt;/strong&gt; - Snowy environments are likely going to very cold, as such I would assume that you have already brought gloves with you when you remembered your &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hat&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;scarf&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;coat&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hot chocolate in a flask&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It is however a good idea to remember a cheap &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pair of thick gloves&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that will keep your hands warm and dry whilst you are shoveling snow in the cold. I say cheap so that if you also intend to use them for maintenance they will still allow you to avoid the yukky car goop but not break the bank if they get torn or generally ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't do anything productive if your fingers are frozen!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Propane Torch&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a fun, effective way to melt some of that rock hard ice if you had trouble using another tool due to high compressive strength. Just try not to melt a hole in your tire! You'd be surprised how easy this is to do. It is also handy for heating that hot beverage I eluded to earlier (as long as you're careful).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Go Easy on the Throttle&lt;/strong&gt; - It's a natural reaction to give the car a lot of power when you're stuck, but more often than not this decreases friction and does a worse job than using just enough to keep surface contact between tire and snow and creep out of the rut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this only applies to getting out of the initial rut. If you have managed to reverse your car out of the rut, you will need to make sure you do use sufficient power to carry enough momentum to be able to drive through the place where you were originally stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disable the Traction Control&lt;/strong&gt; - By doing this, you are disabling the cars ability to restrict power to the wheels when they start to spin - thus not restricting the cars ability to gain any forward momentum should it find traction on one or more of the drive wheels. As a general rule of thumb; turn the traction control off and then allow the drive system (AWD/FWD/RWD) to handle the power distribution around the car on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you do disable traction control, you should watch your speedometer carefully as you may find it easy to accidentally increase wheel speed more than necessary to the point where if the car suddenly finds traction you could lose control of the car again or even cause a collision! Not to mention there probably won't be much left of your tires after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9F5JJYC7s-g&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIXOXw0NRCU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; are a few brilliant examples (though there are many others) of how Subaru cars can make progress through snow using their remarkable AWD system without traction control. Especially for Subaru cars, this can be a very effective method to use (even if the snow is really deep).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are some tools I can carry with me to help me get out of snow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary of Useful Things&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car key - you aren't going very far without this!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spade, shovel or camping shovel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Penknife or multitool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Garden trowel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheet of metal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plank of wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car floor mats, door mat or flattened cardboard boxes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerry can with spare fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rock or table salt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand, dry soil, cat litter or other similar materials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pin, pen or knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A jack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hub Cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blanket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare Tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TracGrabbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good pair of thick, waterproof gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm clothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot beverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Propane Torch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there some things I can do before it snows that make it easier to get out of snow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; If you do not have some or all of the things on the list above you might want to use your best judgement in order to be prepared for any situation without making your car more cluttered than your average garden shed! For many countries, snow is a rare occurrence anyway so I wouldn't suggest having &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the stuff in your car all of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things to Bear in Mind&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also before you leave, you can bear these things in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know Your Car&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Do you know where your drive wheels are?&lt;/em&gt; If you open your bonnet and see that your engine is mounted parallel to the front axle, you probably have a front wheel drive car. If it is mounted perpendicular, it is probably rear wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyeSr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyeSr.png&quot; alt=&quot;FWD&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some cars, such as most pickup trucks, SUVs and cars advertised as &quot;quattro&quot; are actually four (or all) wheel drive. This means that all your wheels are able to help pull the car out of the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XITKu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XITKu.png&quot; alt=&quot;AWD&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take your car for a short drive on the motorway&lt;/strong&gt; - If you notice any wobble or unusual vibration then there is probably snow packed into your wheels which can cause an imbalance. To fix this, pull over when it is safe and convenient and knock the snow out of the wheels by hand (with your gloves on).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be Prepared&lt;/strong&gt; - A motto from the scouts that certainly holds true here. Keep some of the things listed above in the boot of the car in winter months. One or more of these items can help significantly reduce the amount of time and effort needed to free a stuck car from snow and ice. Some snacks would be a wise addition to such supplies for the times that require a prolonged waiting period of time for help to arrive (not just in snow, but for breakdowns as well).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winter Tires&lt;/strong&gt; - If you drive in an area that experiences really severe winter (as opposed to the occasional snowfall like you get once a year in England if your lucky!), consider installing snow or winter tires for the winter months. All-season tires are not nearly as effective in handling snow, mud or similar such surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be Resourceful&lt;/strong&gt; - If you haven't got a plank of wood or sheet of metal to increase traction, go and find some sticks or pebbles nearby to use for the same purpose of increasing traction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When You Break Free&lt;/strong&gt; - If you're moving forward when you break free, continue to drive at a steady pace, aiming for somewhere with less snow where you can safely stop, or get back on to the road. If you have broken free and are traveling in reverse, continue for a couple meters, then let go of the accelerator, allowing the snow to stop the car. Gently accelerate forward in the same tracks you just made with enough speed to break through the original spot. Don't go too slowly or you'll be back where you started!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Radiator Air Flow&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have snow packed in the front of the grille from a snowbank be sure and clear it out before you drive the car too far. It will cause &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24585/14003&quot;&gt;overheating&lt;/a&gt; if the air flow is blocked. Overheating can do terrible things to the engine so this is an important one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to hear any other suggestions that you may have to help everyone avoid the snow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:16:28.397" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2016-01-25T00:48:11.790" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one thing, letting off the gas and, not pressing the clutch should help slow the car better, then hitting the brakes alone with the car in let's call it neutral. because the transmission will help slow the vehicle with the deceleration of the engine. As for &quot;riding the clutch&quot; keep your foot off of it yes it will wear out the moving parts in your transmission. also don't panic in a situation where you lock up the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14581" LastEditorUserId="14581" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T23:05:07.033" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T23:05:07.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25272" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:54:49.207" Score="8" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevy 307 with casting number 3970020 and everything I've read says this particular block can be bored out to 4&quot; effectively making it a 327. I plan to have my machine shop test it and make sure this is a safe bore. If I do bore out the engine will I need different heads for it or will the 307 heads work fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T12:44:43.150" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T07:28:16.250" Title="Would bored out 307 need new heads" Tags="|engine|sbc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T02:59:24.133" Score="4" ViewCount="1895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota 2009 Mark X ZiO trd Sportivo and the model code for my navigation system is  DBA-ANA10 and my car chassis number is ANA10-0030599.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I change the language from Japanese to English?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14584" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T15:45:25.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T15:45:25.000" Title="How do I change my HDD navigation from Japanese to English?" Tags="|toyota|navigation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-01-25T03:39:54.803" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hand winch and a tow strap. You need something to attach it to (a tow hook on your car and something sturdy in the surrounding area) but it's about 90 percent as good as calling a tow truck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winch does all the work, the strap just extends its reach to the nearest sturdy object. If pulling the car six feet doesn't unstick it, just put the car back in park, extend the winch, shorten the tow strap and pull it some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQ0fR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQ0fR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a winch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/om0l1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/om0l1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T06:09:49.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T06:09:49.073" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25255" CreationDate="2016-01-25T04:43:01.263" Score="7" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;What gets worn, the synchronizer rings or the assembly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both get worn, what are the specifics of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how long can they typically be expected to last (miles) if most driving is performed without the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7326" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T06:56:10.560" Title="Clutchless Shifting - Wears Rings or Assembly?" Tags="|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-25T05:14:43.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange - engine coolant is antifreeze diluted with water.  So the seller is claiming he had oil but not water?  &lt;strong&gt;I would not buy that car&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the seller, a coolant system flush would in order, both forwards and reverse, and then refill with antifreeze and clean water.  If engine oil still appears in the coolant water then the oil is moving from the oil galleries to the water galleries.  Check the oil filler cap for white creamy emulsion  like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPCDM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPCDM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be water going the other way, into the oil lubrication system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If this is the case, engine oil in the water is evidence of existing motor damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T05:14:43.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25253" CreationDate="2016-01-25T06:56:10.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most designs the whole synchronizer system wears when the shaft speeds are not matched on a shift. This includes three or four parts. The sliding hub: This is the part moved by the driver by a linkage. The synchronizer clutch hub: A part that catches a cone on the gear. The gear is also worn because it has the   synchronizer engagement teeth. In most designs the clutch as a spring that also wears. When repairs are performed all worn gears and synchronizer kits are replaced at significant expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the how long it will last question. That entirely depends on the skill of the driver. Some can match clutch shafts well resulting in less wear. Most cannot match the speeds and cause rather rapid damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T06:56:10.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-01-25T07:03:58.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use second gear, or third if possible. This lowers the torque output to the drive wheels and tends to lessen the wheel spin. It is not commonly known that the reason 2 is available as a stand-alone gear selection option on most automatic transmission equipped vehicles is this low friction situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T07:03:58.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25258" CreationDate="2016-01-24T22:21:35.897" Score="9" ViewCount="30813" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a car-thief wants to steal a modern car, he often uses the OBD2 (On Board diagnosis) to &quot;hack&quot; the car. &#xA;Simplified: He achieves this by plugging his &quot;hacking device&quot; in the port, which aquieres the code for the engine immobilizer. With the code he is able to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for my own car I want to manipulate said OBD2-interface by changing some Pins. The workshop for sure still need access to the port for maintenance, so I want to use an adaptor which undoes the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Pin-schema for the OBD-plug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R891J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R891J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OBD2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would be the best way to manipulate this plug?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about switching pin 7 (K-Line), with pin 16 (12 Volts). Will this damage the hacking-tool of the thief, if he plugs in his device? Or would it a better idea to switch GND and 12V? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have other suggestions on how to achieve my goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11768" OwnerDisplayName="Michael B" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:46:43.933" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T01:07:20.587" Title="Disabling OBD2-Interface in a car" Tags="|obd-ii|security|theft-prevention|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25257" CreationDate="2016-01-24T23:28:10.443" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're glossing over how the hack actually happens. The hack involves erasing the old keys and then reprogramming a new key to the vehicle. If the car uses a smart key then you're in right away. If the car has a physical key, then having the correct cut of key is also required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars also fall into two categories. The first is the real expensive cars that would be stolen by a professional to chop up. They prefer the car intact. If you are in this category, then just insure the car well, if you bought an expensive car then you can afford it. Also voiding the warranty on an expensive car is no fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is a cheap car but in a bad neighbourhood. Regardless if the thief is skilled enough to pull off the hack or not they don't care what the condition of the car is. A broken window would not be uncommon. I would not be surprised if after their hack tool fried, assuming it would be, they would just vandalize the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by @Passerby you will have problems if taking the car to a repair or inspection facility. Further if tampering with the diagnostic port damages someone very very expensive equipment you could be held liable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest investing in a general run of the mill alarm that cuts the line to the starter. It adds a second layer of stuff to go through to steal the car and no other person would complain. Alarms are common enough, they incorporate motion detectors and siren won't leave you liable for thousands a dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" OwnerDisplayName="vini_i" LastEditorUserId="10501" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T01:07:20.587" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T01:07:20.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25236" CreationDate="2016-01-25T09:55:43.423" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intake manifold runner length is the linear distance from the inlet port (the face of the head) to a common point shared by all cylinders. Depending on the throttle position this could be the open atmosphere (if each cylinder has its own throttle butterfly) or a plenum (if they share a throttle body).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake runner volume is the volume of that section of the inlet system, ie the cross sectional area multiplied by the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very short answer to the final question is that short, wide inlet runners move the torque curve up the rev range whereas long, narrow runners move the curve down the rev range. BUT - there is a whole lot more to it than that. The effect is caused by 'pulse waves', waves of relatively high and low pressure in the runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening of an inlet valve causes low pressure at the engine end of the runner, as the engine sucks air out of the runner. Air starts to flow down the runner into the cylinder until the valve shuts, at which point all that air (travelling at high speed) crashes into the shut valve and creates a relatively high pressure 'slug' of air. This is reflected and starts to move back up the runner until the valve opens again, at which point it heads back towards the port. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dimensions of the runner are calculated well, the high pressure 'slug' or 'pressure wave' will make its way through the port before the valve shuts again, when the next 'slug' is created. The dimensions are critical to the operating speed of the engine. If the runner is short, the reflected pulse might fall out of the end before the valve opens to suck it back in. If the runner is too long, the larger mass of air may react too slowly to perform well at high engine speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reason car manufacturers have invented variable or twin length inlet manifolds, which change the dimensions of the inlet runners at a certain RPM to give improved torque across the engine's rev range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an excellent feature written by Dave Walker, an engine tuning guru from the UK. He performs A-B-A tests comparing inlet runner lengths on a 1600cc engine in an amateur racing car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/emr-adj-length-intake/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to the report.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and here is an interesting print out of torque curves, comparing a 40mm length with a (ridiculous, but interesting) 330mm length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApL3s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApL3s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short inlet runners...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dxwM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dxwM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Short inlet runners...&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and the really long ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2fKA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2fKA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;...and the really long ones!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T16:09:05.887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T16:09:05.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-01-25T10:03:55.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed there was an amazing method not mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PhZa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PhZa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUUckU-vAqI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method gives you that bit of extra traction the one tire needs.  Might not work as well on snow, but you can pile packed snow around that tire for extra traction if you can't unstuck the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastEditorUserId="9535" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T15:19:42.973" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:19:42.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25237" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:14:45.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batteries perform better when they aren't cold so often the first time a battery fails is when it is cold so if you could heat it up a bit it would probably start the car. This may be way cars mysteriously start after sitting in the sun for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it may be harder to turn over a cold engine than a warm one so it would require a greater current draw. A culprit here can be a marginal batter cable connection. Sometimes cleaning the connection gets you the extra juice needed. If the cable is damaged it may need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles are designed where the oil is poured down into the oil pan but if you have the kind where your oil is poured directly onto the cylinder heads you might pour a bit of warm oil there to lubricate the cylinders and get an easier start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for me the ideal emergency solution is a portable battery such as: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=jumper%20battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=jumper%20battery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14594" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:14:45.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:20:27.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have into account two factors: oil viscosity may be much or very much higher than the antifreeze fluid (glicol-polipropylene derivates) normally used: the radiator grille has capilare-thickness tubes and an hydraulic circuit (pump, filter, reservoir...) prepared for much less viscosity. Furthermore, the oil will becoming more and more viscose while the temperature increases... until a cold night (not so cold: just under 50º F) will become absolutely blocked (yes: around cylinders will regain the low viscosity state, but the radiator grille... well: I wound't like to find myself in a such situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14596" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:20:27.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25237" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:22:42.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Ice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most common problem that people have is when their car is parked in a moist environment below degrees, resulting in ice forming on some or all of the windows. To resolve this problem, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25048/14003&quot;&gt;see this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battery&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem that is quite common (this happened to me recently), is if you have a car with a car battery that is in poor condition, then the car may not start. This is because the process of starting the car requires the greatest current draw to get the engine to turn over initially. This is also why the headlights will dim temporarily when you turn the engine on (assuming they were on to begin with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this problem, you might consider investing in a trickle charger for use overnight so that you can be sure the battery has a full charge when you come to start it in the morning. If this does not fix your problem as the battery is losing its charge quicker than it is supposed to or it appears at the service that your battery is in poor condition, you should invest in a new battery as soon as you can realistically afford to - especially if you live in a place where it is consistently below zero degrees Celsius at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSzKB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSzKB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trickle Charger&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not want to splash out on a trickle charger (even though they are not that expensive and a worthwhile investment in most cases), but you know that your car battery is in good condition and therefore does not need to be replaced then you can do a simple jump start and rely on the alternator to maintain charge in the battery whilst the car is in motion. This is what most people will do, including myself, though I did not happen to have a trickle charger handy. Otherwise I would have used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZv4R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZv4R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jump Leads&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:32:02.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:23:37.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As oil has a higher viscosity than water, I think it could damage the water pump because it would put more stress on it. Also, the oil would flow slower than water and this could lead to overheating of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14597" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:23:37.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25271" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:48:46.817" Score="0" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;The turbo on a Ford Fiesta 2008 TDCi is bust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much should I expect to pay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14540" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:11:58.960" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:11:58.960" Title="How much extra should I expect to pay to have a Turbo replaced at the dealership as opposed to at a garage?" Tags="|ford|fiesta|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-01-25T14:42:17.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21675" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:21:36.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out the problem was the key security system.  Apparently the switched voltage reset the key security, which caused my key to not be recognized by the car.  After getting the security reprogrammed to accept my key, the car works as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12599" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:21:36.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25268" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really two routes; dealership and third party (a normal garage mechanic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Dealership&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to get it done at the dealership, you can expect to pay 10-30% more on top of what an independent garage might charge you. The advantage to going this route is that generally you are going to get what you pay for when it comes to a turbo replacement. There is generally a lot of labour time that goes in to ensuring the part, and any other parts that the new part could effect, works perfectly (that other garages often skip out to save money) in order to avoid other parts failing in the future! You also get genuine parts, a Ford dealer stamp in your service book (which will effect the value of your car on the used market) and the peace of mind knowing that the work is being carried out by properly trained and manufacturer approved mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the dealerships do often price match within a 5 mile or so radius so you may actually get a really good price there if you do your research first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Garage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to go the non-dealership route. This is the way most people go due to the inherent price savings associated with this for what most people might assume as being the &quot;same&quot; work done. I would say this is still your best bet for getting the cheapest quote for the work that needs doing, however I will make you aware of the following things that you may want to take note of:&#xA;- They don't necessarily use manufacturer approved parts&#xA;- They can skip out some of the tests to ensure there will be no negative knock-on effect to the work being carried out&#xA;- Will result in a less valuable service history (and therefore resale value of the car)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I would say that it is okay to have the work done at the garage as long as you understand what you are getting, their inherent advantages and disadvantages and also that you should go to someone you trust or have been recommended to &lt;em&gt;by&lt;/em&gt; someone knowledgeable that you trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much should I expect to pay to have a Turbo replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About £150-£200 for a new turbo plus labour, which I can't estimate easily as it varies significantly depending on where you go. Also the time it takes will vary depending on the level of expertise of the mechanic and whether they are having a good day or not (luck). Hence my previous recommendation that was you should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;go to someone you trust&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't trust anyone then you can come back with only a quote and break it down as follows to find out for yourself whether it is a good value or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example you were quoted £600 for a turbo replacement that would take 4 hours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£600 (total) - £200 (parts) = £400 (labour cost)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;£400 divided by 4 hours = £100 per hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this example you would be paying £100 per hour for labour and £200 for the part itself. Both of these prices seem quite expensive for a garage (but more reasonable for a dealership). I would make an educated guess that you should pay about £400-500 for the work that you need done at a garage including parts if you can find a reputable, trustworthy garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All costs used here are estimates so take them with a pinch of salt and do your own research as prices can change on a regular basis, but the principle remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:33:00.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25249" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:37:44.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr;&lt;/strong&gt; Yes. You can use the 307 heads on the build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with that out of the way, let's talk about what you'll get with these 307 heads. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/index.php/49-54-data/general-chevy-data/chevy-head-casting-s&quot;&gt;Every 307 head built&lt;/a&gt; came with 1.72&quot; intake valves. These are relatively tiny. In fact, from the factory, these are the smallest intake valves offered (that I'm aware of). 350's came mostly with 1.94&quot; intake valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 307 was built small and maintains small numbers. You'll never get anything worth a bean out of these heads. If you want to build a 327, it would be much wiser to buy a 350, which will most likely have the larger 1.94&quot; valves in the heads, and throw in a destroked crank. You'll get a far better building block than the 307 will ever be. Complete 350 engines are relatively cheap and still &lt;em&gt;very plentiful&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just wanting to go cheap, a good answer would be to get a pair of 350 Vortec truck heads. These are very common and really inexpensive for what you're getting. They have a great combustion chamber and flow well for what they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what your performance goals are for your 327, but with the stock 307 heads, don't expect miracles. The 307 was a low horsepower motor. Don't expect your 327 to be any different using these heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:37:44.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:50:49.183" Score="4" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery went dead 2 days ago.  After a jump start I began my drive to work.  I initially noticed heat and then heard a sound as if my blower motor turned up to 11 (it was already at max at this point) and cold air started blowing.  Turned off the car, let sit for one minute, then restarted it.  Heat for 1-2 minutes and then the same behavior as described above occurs. Reproducible without fail.  Also noticing some trouble switching between blower modes.  For example I will have on defrost/floor and press dash/floor and the light on the button will come on but no change in where the air is blowing from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14602" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T15:04:00.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T08:01:36.183" Title="2011 Ford Fusion Heater Issue" Tags="|ford|heater|heat|fusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:52:56.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If pulling forward and then removing power (by depressing the clutch) results some movement backwards, this indicates the possibility to &quot;swing&quot; the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull forward with the engine till the point where the car does not move any longer, then allow to roll backwards freely (clutch depressed). When it stops rolling backwards, immediately pull forward again. Each such cycle accumulates more and more kinetic energy until it is sufficient to free the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14601" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T14:52:56.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24994" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:37:02.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed this. Here is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I added a fresh, new battery. It was going to be needed regardless as the battery was producing corrosion, a good sign the battery is at the end of its life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I put a fresh terminal on the damaged terminal where there was corrosion. I stripped the old wires and slapped on a 5 dollar terminal from autozone, plugged the bad boy in and it fired up alright, although it took a few tries to get the car going. The starter probably froze.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate all the insight into this matter from you all and thank you, this is what fixed it for me. Good luck anyone with similar issues!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14440" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:37:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25284" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:45:34.093" Score="8" ViewCount="22507" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is similar to, but not the same as my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19282/effects-of-dirty-piston-heads-and-intake-valves&quot;&gt;Effects of Dirty Piston Heads and Intake Valves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I often see people talking about taking the intake manifolds off older cars to clean them, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/15857/7132&quot;&gt;or to seafoam them&lt;/a&gt;, separate from just trying to get the valves clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would think that unless there is a major problem with the engine which has caused a truely massive buildup of gunk then a typically dirty intake manifold shouldn't really be much of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things I could think of would be that maybe a dirty intake could throw off ECU fuel calculations relating to the assumed &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inlet_manifold#Turbulence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tau pool on the intake walls&lt;/a&gt;, but that would seem to be a pretty small effect I would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I could think of might be clogged EGR passages, but I don't think seafoaming would help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, what are the effects of a typically dirty intake manifold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T19:52:29.680" Title="Consequences of a Dirty Intake Manifold" Tags="|cleaning|performance|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:54:59.800" Score="7" ViewCount="3093" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Nissan XTerra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower heater hose was leaking. Note: NOT the radiator hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordered a replacement but kept driving wile waiting for it to come in.&#xA;Got to the point that I had to fill the radiator before I left and again before I came home, but was generally able to keep it from overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't refill with anti-freeze, saving for getting the heater hose replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One morning, water poured into radiator leaks out the bottom and never fills.&#xA;My guess is no anti-freeze let it freeze.&#xA;Water comes from right between the back of the engine and front of the bell-housing of transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid it is fatal. Any guesses what actually happened?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14605" LastEditorUserId="14605" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T16:49:40.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:44:16.757" Title="Water leaking from bottom of engine" Tags="|water-leak|xterra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25286" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:55:38.273" Score="6" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in UK and winter season is wet to say the least - I just found a swimming pool in the back on my Cadillac in spare wheel compartment. It's not to close to the edge but not to far ether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it my options are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leave it&lt;/strong&gt;. It might attract rust and overflow in to trunk where I sometimes keep my laptop and they don't go well with water. But if it does not in 2-3 months and weather becomes warmer and less rainy it might dry out by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take the tire out then get a cup and ...&lt;/strong&gt;. This will not solve underlying problem and might become a chore that I have to do from time to time. Still this is most straightforward solution with minimal possibility of doing more harm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill a hole&lt;/strong&gt;. This does sound like a permanent solution, but I am not sure what's 'under the ice', and what other bigger damage I could do. Other thing is - manufacturer could have done the holes and yet he didn't so there might be a reason for that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would be most appropriate situation?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T16:04:18.597" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:45:32.230" Title="Cadillac CTS How to deal with water in spare wheel compartment" Tags="|repair|cadillac|trunk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25279" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:56:49.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trunk (North America and Jamaica) or boot (Commonwealth English) of a car is the vehicle's main storage compartment. The trunk or luggage compartment is most often located at the rear of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:39:48.300" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:39:48.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25280" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:56:49.263" Score="0" Body="The trunk (North America and Jamaica) or boot (Commonwealth English) of a car is the vehicle's main storage compartment. " OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:39:52.970" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:39:52.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25237" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:01:39.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The main problem would be the battery, as already pointed out. In low temperatures batteries tend to lose power, and for batteries near the end of their lifetime this means that you won't have enough current to turn the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another problem would be the wrong oil chosen for the engine. Oils have grades based on their viscosity in certain temperatures - the first number in it represents viscosity in winter temperatures (-18 °C) and the second - around operating temperature (100 °C). For example 5W-30 means SAE5 motor oil viscosity at -18 °C and SAE30 motor oil viscosity at 100 °C. If high cold viscosity oil such as 20W-40 is used in freezing temperatures - expect a slow crank and various other problems caused by heavy oil in the engine. Usually 0W and 5W oils are used in temperatures below -20 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about it for petrol engines, but diesels are much more fickle. In addition to the previous: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular diesel contains wax, which solidifies in very low temperatures and turns fuel to slush. This will definitely prevent starting, so make sure that you use special winter diesel with additives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wax in diesel fuel often clogs up the fuel filter. Even if you switch to appropriate diesel, but do that too late, you might still have a no start due to low fuel pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel engines use glowplugs to heat the cylinders before, during and a little after starting in weather below a few degrees Celsius. This is necessary, as the block absorbs much of the heat added during compression and prevents starting. If at least one of them is dead - expect difficult or no starting at all in colder weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:01:39.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25282" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:04:44.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trunk (North America and Jamaica) or boot (Commonwealth English) of a car is the vehicle's main storage compartment. The trunk or luggage compartment is most often located at the rear of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:39:44.097" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:39:44.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25283" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:04:44.347" Score="0" Body="The trunk (North America and Jamaica) or boot (Commonwealth English) of a car is the vehicle's main storage compartment. " OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="11101" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:39:38.143" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:39:38.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25276" CreationDate="2016-01-25T16:07:26.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Upstream the throttle body&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dirty intake by itself isn't the problem, but it is a sign of contamination of related components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;MAF sensors don't take kindly to dirt&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will usually lead to the fouling of the hot-wire(s), resulting in the underreading of air mass flow, which will lead to positive fuel trim correction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the contamination is bad enough, the engine will feel sluggish and slow to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Throttle plate actuation can be hindered&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crud tends to build up on the back of throttle bodies. If bad enough, they will hinder the ability for the actuation of the throttle plate, which can lead to driveability problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A clogged EGR hose/valve can throw off fuel management&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this will show up in fuel trims, albeit not dramatically. The obvious thing to suffer from lack of EGR will be the environment due to increased NOx emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Downstream the throttle body&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only losses between the throttle body and intake valves will be caused by ductwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all situations, the deposits of oil, fuel and dirt will not have a significant impact on pressure drop. I'd expect the performance gains from cleaning this part of the manifold to be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the lesser the dirt that goes past the intake valve, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the right solution is to ensure that dirt doesn't enter in the first place: Keep the intake tract air-tight and use a good quality air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T19:52:29.680" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T19:52:29.680" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25278" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:17:22.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend drilling the hole since you don't know what's under it. If the gas (petrol) tank is under the trunk, and you go to far, you could ding or puncture the tank. Not pretty, and expensive to fix. If the open road is under it, then spray from the road could end up entering the car that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly &lt;strong&gt;the best solution is to find out where the water is coming from and eliminate that source.&lt;/strong&gt; Check the carpet to see if it's wetness pattern tells you if it's seeping through there. Dry everything out and hit the trunk with a water hose and see if any water shows up inside, possibly through a leaky trunk (boot) gasket. With the volume of water you're seeing either you haven't looked in there for a very long time (I know I have not looked under my trunk (boot) deck in forever) or there is a pretty big leak. And if your spare is up to pressure and there are no bubbles coming from it as it sits under water, you found a great way to check your spare tire for leaks :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are manual fluid transfer pumps available if you don't want to do the bucket brigade&lt;/strong&gt;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:45:32.230" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:45:32.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T18:18:44.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jeep quit at stop sign and left wife stranded man im in the Dog House.&#xA;Question: any thoughts off the cuff for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week check guages light came on charging gauge dropped all the way negative will jump and run but spits back like its got a fuel problem and then dies.  Installed new battery to get it home gauge showed good charge for about half mile then dropped off again.&#xA; The battery and Alternator have been checked and are testing good. miles are 156k and is maintained on regular basis. When we first got it we were driving on state highway at 60 mph speedo&amp;amp;tach dropped to 0 and air bag light came on but gauges went back up about as fast as they went away, air bag light went back off as well. Not sure this gauge and light issue applies but may, a tech at a chrysler dealer told me there is an issue with cluster harness that may be causing these issues anyone here heard of anything to the point of this comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14613" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T18:28:09.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T00:48:46.103" Title="2001 Jeep Cherokee sport check gauges light" Tags="|jeep|charging|cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25289" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Cylinder heads (commonly just called &quot;heads&quot;) are the big piece of metal which caps and seals the end of the cylinder bore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Types of Cylinder Heads:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three basic types of cylinder heads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flathead Cylinder Head&lt;/strong&gt; - These cylinder heads were used on older engines such as the flat-head Ford engines (like seen below). The oval protrusion at the top of the cylinder head is for coolant flow. Coolant would flow up from the block and through passages in the head (between bolt holes) and out through this oval port at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KRsf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KRsf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overhead Valve Head (OHV)&lt;/strong&gt; - This type of cylinder head has been used extensively from the 1950s and are still used today. These heads have the valves located within them instead of in the block like the flathead. The valves are actuated indirectly from the cam through a valve train, which usually consists of lifters (tappets), push rods, and rocker arms. An OHV head usually looks something like these Chevrolet heads below. In the picture, the flat surface of the head (right side of the image) is the portion which faces the engine block. The left side is where you see the valve tips, valve springs, retainers, and keepers. On top of these is where you would see the rocker arms if they were installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwumz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwumz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overhead Cam Head (OHC)&lt;/strong&gt; - This third type of head usually has the camshaft co-located with the cam. It is called &quot;over head&quot;, because the cam actually resides over the top of the head. The OHC can have a single (SOHC) or dual (DOHC) configuration. (You can learn more about the differences between a SOHC and DOHC &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/8137/4152&quot;&gt;in this SE post&lt;/a&gt;). Here are some images showing OHC heads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7O1t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7O1t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image, it is a little hard to see, but there is one camshaft (you can see the single gear to the left of the head) which extends the length of the head. This single cam shaft actuates both the intake and exhaust valves which are in the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7qU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j7qU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image of a DOHC, you can see the two cam shafts (find two gears to the right of the head in the image). with DOHC, the valves can be actuated directly (as in this image) or with the use of rocker arms. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Anatomy of a Cylinder Head&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First let's explain the Flathead Cylinder head a little. Like I said before, it is basically just a flat chunk of metal which seals the top of the cylinder. In the image above, the top portion of the image (as I stated) is the flat part. The indentations in the head (the almost heart shaped portion) is the combustion chamber. This is where the air fuel mixture has room to burn when the piston is at top dead center (TDC) during ignition, between the compression and power cycles of an Otto cycle engine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To better understand what makes up most other cylinder heads, let's go over some of the basics (Note: some of these things were mentioned above, but I'll explain better as to what they are here):&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bare Cylinder Head&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the main building block of the entire structure. All other components we'll talk about are attached to the bare head in some form or fasion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve&lt;/strong&gt;: Usually buried inside the head, this is the part which lets the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber and the exhaust gasses out during that portion of the Otto cycle. The valve is actuated at the precise time by the cam shaft. Here is a representative image of a valve:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rK8N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rK8N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Spring&lt;/strong&gt;: This keeps the valve closed when it's not open. Valve springs can be comprised of one, two, or even three different spring portions (depending on the design need). Usually only very high performance engines need the spring pressures involved with three (or triple) springs. Here is a representative image of a valve spring (these are beehive springs, so called due to their shape):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Spring Retainer&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve spring retainer keeps the spring located on the spring. The retainer is located on the top end of the spring (away from the head). It holds the spring in place while simultaneously attaches to the valve via retainer locks (see below). Here is a representative image of a retainer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ7Dl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ7Dl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retainer Lock&lt;/strong&gt;: The retainer lock (or key) is wedged between the valve tip and the retainer. An interference fit occurs because of the spring pressure pushing up on the lock, the angle of the locks in relationship to the straight stem of the valve, and the small tab which fits into the valve. Here is a representative image of a retainer lock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rvdx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rvdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one half of a pair of locks. You can also see the angle which is created, along with the small tab which connects the lock to the valve stem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Seal&lt;/strong&gt; - The valve seal is located around the stem of the valve at the top of the valve guide (see below) underneath the valve spring. It provides a seal so as to prevent oil from leaking (or getting pumped) into the intake and exhaust tracts. Here is a representative image of a valve seal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Ctj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Ctj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image, you can see two valves (at bottom right and to the left). The valve seal is the spring which encircles the valve, the polymer piece underneath of it, and the metal which is below that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Guide&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve guide does exactly what the name implies - it guides the valve. The valve guide is a separate piece of metal usually made out of cast iron or bronze. The guide is separate from the head so as it can be replaced if needed when a head is rebuilt. It is driven into the head and provides a way to keep the valve specifically located while still allowing the valve to move up and down during the open/close cycle. There are many different types and different applications for each. Here is a representative image of different valve guides:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzgRA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzgRA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Seat&lt;/strong&gt;: The valve seat is a hardened material which is hammered into the head, then cut at specific angles to, along with the valve, create a seal which keeps the gasses during the combustion process locked into the combustion chamber. Valve seats are usually made of some type of iron alloy as this tends to stand up to the rigors of an opening/closing valve over its lifetime. You can find seats in cast iron heads (most of the time), but you'll always find valve seats in aluminum heads. Without these, the valve would move the aluminum out of the way and would soon be damaged. Here is a representative image of a valve seat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEpHo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEpHo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image, I've added two yellow ovals. The valve seat is located between the two ovals. The seat is the portion which is discolored and looks to be machined at an angle. When the seats are place, a place is machined into the head where the seat will later be driven into it. Then the seat is cut at specific angles so the valve will make perfect contact with the seat and create a positive seal. You can also see in the image, at the center of the circles, is the valve guide peaking out at you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spring Seat&lt;/strong&gt;: Depending on the head manufacturer and the head design, there may also be a spring seat, which can protect the cylinder head from being galled by the spring. As you may have guessed, the spring seat straddles the valve guide and is placed between the spring and the head. You'll usually see these on aluminum heads. In this area, a manufacturer can also place valve spring shims to set the spring height correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of most of the parts described above and how they all fit together (blown apart, of course):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QNCmT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QNCmT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combustion Chamber&lt;/strong&gt;: The combustion chamber is where all the action occurs. The shape of this, in addition to the valves and dome (or dish) of the piston, shapes how the flame front travels after air/fuel ignition occurs. A combustion chamber can be of many different sizes and shapes. It all depends on what is needed for the particular engine. Below is a representative image of a big block Chevy (BBC) closed port combustion chamber. In the image, you see the face of the intake (larger valve) and exhaust (smaller valve) valves. Just to the right side of the valves (at 4 O'Clock to the valves) is a threaded hole. This is where the spark plug protrudes from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHVFZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHVFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Skz1W.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Skz1W.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; basic OHV head. You can see the different parts of the head annotated for better understanding. All head with valves in them work &lt;em&gt;fairly&lt;/em&gt; much the same way, but can be arranged in different ways as you've seen in the above images. Here is another image showing the cross section of how the valves, intake runner and exhaust runner may be situated within the head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2q1a.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2q1a.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake/Exhaust Ports&lt;/strong&gt;: The intake and exhaust ports are the part of the head which allows the air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder and the exhaust gasses to leave the cylinder. The size, shape, and texture of these can help or hinder how the air flow occurs. With greater flow comes greater power and torque. Here is representative image of a cutaway view of a port:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hZgt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hZgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra Bits &amp;amp; Pieces&lt;/strong&gt;: During the casting of heads, coolant passages are built into them. This allows the head to bleed off excess heat from the combustion process. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25290" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" Score="0" Body="Cylinder heads (commonly just called &quot;heads&quot;) are the big piece of metal which caps and seals the end of the cylinder bore." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:21:21.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:23:37.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a popular process to get just about all the oil and sludge out of an engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it is usually done after engine disassembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You soak the dirty engine pieces into a hot tank of sodium hydroxide (lye) solution and other cleaning agents. The liquid will chemically react with the oils in the engine and remove it in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:23:37.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25294" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:39:25.667" Score="6" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a relevant quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://driving.ca/ford/auto-news/news/7-tips-to-help-you-survive-winter-driving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that might be related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plugged-in engines are already half-warmed when started. Fuel consumption is thus reduced by an average of 15 per cent over the first 20 kilometers driven (after which, the engine will be fully warm) according to the CAA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know also that all fluids become more viscous as temperature decreases, and so the engine oil becomes thicker and requires more fuel to pump it around when it is cold. The battery also experiences a higher strain due to the increased current draw from the starter motor when the driver tries to start the car in the cold (they perform a cold start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is meant if an engine is &quot;plugged in&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; This question applies to non-electric cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:41:25.653" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:41:25.653" Title="What exactly is meant by the phrase &quot;plugging in your engine&quot;?" Tags="|oil|winter|cold-start|block-heater|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25245" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:52:02.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From doing some reading here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/cylinder-heads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/cylinder-heads.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;it looks like what you are referring to the size of the values and the amount of lift they get. Here's a couple of pictures that should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ay5JH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ay5JH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Valve Configuration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the setup for basic overhead cam operation. Here's another, simpler diagram that shows what happens when the valves open and close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8YE3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8YE3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Valves in operation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this figure you can see that the volume of the valve is proportional to how big around the valve is, and how far the valve is opened. A large valve that only opens a small amount would still have a small volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how this affects the power curve the more air you get into and out of the engine the more power you generate. There are trade offs though as a really large cross sectional area in the intake path will yield a large volume of air, but at a low velocity. That will provide a lot of power, but only at RPM that are too high for the street. Your throttle response would be sluggish at street level RPMs. The reading at the above link talks about the intake path, including the valve volume, as being tuned for the response you want by getting good velocity and good volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is dependent on the engine too since bigger displacement engines need more air, and so different tuning (cross sectional area, length, etc) of the intake and exhaust paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T21:58:52.320" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:58:52.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25292" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:04:38.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In very cold climates there are electric heaters that replace the dip stick. They are plugged into an AC outlet and because they reach the oil pan they can apply heat directly to the oil. That way the oil doesn't get cold to the point where it totally looses it's ability to keep your engine protected at start up. It's plugging in that electric heater that &quot;plugging-in&quot; refers to. In places like North Dakota parking lots have electric outlets for each spot just for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:04:38.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25299" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:28:10.157" Score="6" ViewCount="3261" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my E90 I have a REST button:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nccii.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nccii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems not to work, when I press it, the LED won't light and the heating won't work. Could this be a defect fuse? And if yes, which one (could it be 15 and/or 67)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r9nKs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r9nKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13372" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T22:06:13.683" LastActivityDate="2020-01-01T03:51:17.740" Title="BMW E90 pre facelift - REST heat button / fuse" Tags="|bmw|fuse|e90|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25245" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:31:26.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What exactly is meant by cylinder head intake/exhaust port volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of air that can pass through the intake or exhaust ports as well as the amount of resistance (back pressure) that is required to get to the particular flow quantity.  You are trying to reduce the back pressure (energy) required to get to your desired flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways of looking at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The volume of air that is capable of passing through the exhaust or intake valve at it's maximum open state from the cam.  So, valve in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the volume of air that is capable of passing through the exhaust or intake valve with the valve not in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I never port a head with the valve out method, in terms of measuring.  It's a fake number IMO and doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can this affect the power curve of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is too broad because the variables are so vast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately you can effect bottom end power or top end power, it just depends on what you are trying to achieve.  Air flowing at high rates through a head and over valves acts differently and various speeds measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute).  Cutting away material at particular points in the port will have varying effects on power curve depending on what you remove or don't remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the better the head port volume or CFM flow through ports the better the volumetric efficiency, the better the volumetric efficiency the more potential power the ICE can convert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T00:42:07.450" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T00:42:07.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25302" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:12:40.130" Score="5" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done some valve guide replacements on motorcycles.  In the process I've typically done I heat the head up in an oven to about 300 F and shoot nitrogen into the guide which shrinks it and it nearly just falls out of the head sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've described this method to some car guys and have received some 'eye rolls' and that sort of response.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that method is non functional then I would like to know of a standard method used to replace larger valve guides or simply a procedure to valve guide replacement for cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the proper accepted method of valve guide replacement in a car head?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the proper accepted method of valve guide replacement in a 1988 Jeep Wrangler?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; IF the valve guide replacement is more model specific than I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T21:28:43.690" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:28:43.690" Title="Valve Guide Replacement - 1988 Jeep Wrangler" Tags="|engine|valve-guide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25295" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:19:01.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand and how I've seen it used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ignition is off it uses the residual heat from the engine to warm the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to validate my claim, turn your car off and hit the button.  You may need to try it with the key in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested if I'm correct.  Please follow up.   :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T21:34:42.317" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T21:34:42.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:45:58.093" Score="4" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;My transmission gets these odd slips every once in a while. For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;today I was driving slow through town, I believe in second gear, and my foot was very light on the pedal. As I release the pedal, It feels like the computer thinks I am want to slow down rather than coasting, and it will initiate a downshift(I think)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem though, is that i may be coasting, and I put my foot back on the pedal right as the computer decides to downshift, and this can cause a slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont know that this is going on, but thats what it feels like. Is this normal? Its a 4 speed, corolla 2012. It feels like it thinks I want to slow  down, but then tried put my foot back on the pedal accelerate at the exact moment of the downshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Than the miscalculation, it drives fine. Im just worried about whether its my driving style, or the transmission, or the transmisson computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:47:17.163" Title="Odd Transmission slip" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25287" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:48:46.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that your battery is not charging, and you're probably running the battery all the way down, which would explain why it runs ok for a short period of time after you jump it. Have you checked your fuses? there is usually a 'charge fuse' for the voltage regulator. I would look at that first. The next item would be the regulator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go over the engine compartment and do a visual check of all the electrical connections, and make sure everything is tight and securely fastened. Vehicle vibration can many times shake loose the wiring and connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the odd behavior from the gauges is simply a sign of the low power. I've seen cars where the gauges all drop to 0 as power dies, also the car will mis-fire as it loses power due to a weak or no spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T00:48:46.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25298" CreationDate="2016-01-26T00:59:12.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve guides come in several different types. Most are an interference fit. The old valve guides get driven out, and new ones driven in. This usually happens pneumatically. Some valve guides are actually screwed into place. The Jeep ones you mention, as well as most of the American made vehicles are driven in/out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically three ways you can fix worn valve guides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complete Replacement&lt;/strong&gt; - This is buying new valve guides and replace the old ones. This involves taking the old ones out using a pneumatic driver. The driver is setup with a rod which goes down the middle of the guide with a cap which holds the top. Then the air is applied and the old one is driven out from the top out through the valve port. The new one is then driven into the same spot using the same tool and procedure. The guide is usually trimmed to size once in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knurling&lt;/strong&gt; - A less expensive and more problematic method to fix the valve guide is to &lt;em&gt;knurl&lt;/em&gt; the inside of it. What this does it basically pushes a pattern into the valve guide which squishes the valve guide a little bit. The only place it can squish to is to the inside, which takes up the gap and holds the valve stem in place. The issue with this is like most cheap fixes, it doesn't last long in the grand scheme of things. Since there is less guide material actually holding the stem, it wears rather quickly. The other issue is if it's not done correctly, it can actually become a pump and press oil right into the port which causes the engine to burn oil. This method has really fallen out of favor because doing the next method came around and basically replaced it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liner Insert&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a process which is a bit easier and cheaper than completely new guides, but lasts much longer than knurling. What takes place is a new liner is given to the old guide. It's like giving new life to the old guide. The machinist will prep the old guide by reaming it out to the proper size. Then the insert will be pushed down into place. Once in place, the new guide insert is reamed to near size which is just shy of the size needed for the valve stem to fit properly. This not only sets the insert to the proper size, but also binds it in place to the old guide. The tops and bottoms of the insert are trimmed to size, then the final honing is done so the insert will function just like a new guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the general ways guides are changed or fixed in a lot of American vehicles. There may other methods and different guides used, but these will cover most of them. Needless to say, you need to lap the valves once the new guides are put in for proper valve seal. The new guides will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be in the exact same place as the old ones, so this is an important step in getting the guides back into proper shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T00:59:12.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9657" CreationDate="2016-01-26T01:00:22.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well - most older cars that didn't have a TCU used manifold vacuum to determine shifts. When one of the vacuum hoses broke or fell off, the transmission wouldn't shift properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this won't be realistic for your bicycle - you'll have to write some software and figure out an algorithm that will work - using some speed and torque sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's new uncharted territory!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:00:22.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25557" CreationDate="2016-01-26T01:09:09.947" Score="16" ViewCount="6556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read somewhere that transfer cases (on 4x4 vehicles) split the power from front to rear, but don't do it equally. Something along a 60% rear/40% front (though I'm sure it could be any percentage as set by the manufacturer). My question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does the transfer case distribute the power unequally front to rear?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T19:29:38.090" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:15:01.870" Title="How does a transfer case split power between front/rear?" Tags="|automotive-design|transfer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25300" CreationDate="2016-01-26T01:47:17.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok...my suggestion on starting this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MUST BE A VERY CLEAN DIRT/DUST FREE AREA&#xA;Don't flush ... Start to change the fluid and filter as recommended. When you take down the pan loosen the bolts in a left then right then left order all the way around. Just loosen them.. Go back and slowly open the bolt patter and you will see the pan lowering.. It may be stuck on the gasket but keep a drain pan under it and just tap the pan it should drop. After the fluid is out take the pan all the way off. Change the filter and the ring inside the hole the filter plugs in. Take out the magnet in the pan clean it and replace it. Look at your fluid for any metal or shavings.&#xA;I use Vaseline on my pan gaskets thinly to keep it in place for replacement. &#xA;Bolts don't have to be very tight but snug. Let the gasket do its job and don't over tighten it. &#xA;Refill and check with engine warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T01:47:17.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25309" CreationDate="2016-01-26T02:39:50.507" Score="4" ViewCount="866" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has a Nissan Versa 2014 (although this question still applies for any other car), and I need to buy a battery for it. I went to both Walmart and Advance Auto parts and there are lots of batteries there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know which battery is the recommended one for my vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14033" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:35:42.363" Title="What battery should I buy for my vehicle?" Tags="|battery|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25307" CreationDate="2016-01-26T02:56:47.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walmart says your vehicle requires a MAXX-51R which is a 500 CCA battery. AutoZone has it as a 51R-DL which is a 475CCA battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to Google and search on the key words &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=vehicle%20battery%20finder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vehicle battery finder&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, you'll be able to find several search pages which will suit your needs. You or anyone else who is in search of one will have to go this route or go to the store and ask in order to figure out which battery to use. All makes/models are going to be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T02:56:47.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25307" CreationDate="2016-01-26T03:27:27.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to go about purchasing a new battery for the vehicle. Easiest way would be to find the part number and see if any of the local parts stores have the same part number or can cross reference that number to the batteries they sell.&#xA;For example an:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exidebatteries.co.nz/battery-range/passenger/Economy/LM40CP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LM40CP&lt;/a&gt; - Manufactured by Exide is equivalent to an&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centurybatteries.co.nz/resources/battery-finder/product/ns40zmf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NS40ZMF&lt;/a&gt; - Manufactured by Century-Yuasa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no visible markings on the battery (usually unlikely) I often go by battery dimensions, terminal dimensions and shape, terminal orientation, sealed or SLI type, CCA (Cold-cranking amps) and whether or not its DIN or Standard type.&#xA;I'll briefly break the above down for clarity and help you choose one that suits her needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold-cranking amps is the large number you'll often see associated with a battery representing power output. This represents the instantaneous current flow of the battery at -18 degrees C. This number isn't as important as the general structure of the battery, but too much lower than the recommended rating for the vehicle and it may die prematurely or in the case of some diesel vehicles or vehicles requiring a sufficiently high CCA rating such as some models of Mercedes-Benz or BMW, the vehicle may not crank over at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard type batteries are of the most common type, the terminal sits flush on the top surface of the battery and the terminals normally come in JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) or pencil post for small Japanese vehicles, or SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) type for most other vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSMzI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LSMzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note the orientation of the terminals i.e. if the positive or negative is on the left front of the battery. Most batteries that I have sold have the negative terminal on the front left, however this is just by experience. Terminal orientation may not matter if the battery cables can reach in either orientation, but its better to match the original battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for sealed or SLI (Starter, Lighting and Ignition) batteries, you can normally tell just by looking at them. SLI batteries have either flush or protruding filler caps on them for topping up the electrolyte when cell levels drop below the optimal point. It also allows users to check the electrolyte with a hydrometer. SLI batteries are commonly of anti-monial lead construction (approx. 2% antimony), and between 6-11 plates inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WrGLl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WrGLl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealed batteries (or Maintenance-free), are as the name suggests sealed with no filler holes. These batteries cannot be serviced if they go flat and required a special charger to rejuvenate. These chargers can be expensive as they go through 6-8 special stages of charging. These batteries are of the Calcium-Lead type normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIN-type batteries are so aptly named as they were designed originally for luxury European vehicles with a large number of accessories or that required a greater amount of power for starting. These batteries have recessed terminals and are appearing a lot more frequently in other markets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9BSv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9BSv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for battery dimensions, it is important that it can fit within the compartment with which it is designed for and can be braced down. I've seen on occasions customers try to fit taller or wider batteries in their car with dire consequences, such as shorting it out on the bonnet, blowing fuel pump relays by mixing up terminal polarity, and cracking the battery case by bracing it on an angle because it is too long for the tray. In most places, a battery clamp correctly placed is a vehicle certification requirement for road worthiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their are as with all things automotive exceptions to the above and many more categories that could be discussed such as Silver-based batteries or Lithium battery upgrades but they probably won't be relevant in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the vehicle in question runs the HR16DE Nissan Engine, your battery could look something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Qashqai-J10-1-6-115-Car-Battery-HR16DE-SUV-03-07-012-/121448944306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissan Qashqai 1.6 Battery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are no guarantees from my experience that two of the same engine but in different vehicle models will share the same battery spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to make any kind of recommendation on your final choice, go maintenance free, nearly every customer I've ever served with the exception of one man who tried to service his maintenance free, disregard their battery when checking the vehicle over. The battery is one of the most overlooked items by end users, as vehicle fluids and brakes often are the centre focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10834" LastEditorUserId="10834" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T05:35:42.363" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:35:42.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T05:27:34.253" Score="5" ViewCount="6548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Toyota Corolla 141. The petrol consumption is too bad. It does only around &lt;strong&gt;7.5-8 Km/l&lt;/strong&gt;. Could you please let me know the reason behind this ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that the vehicle is too heavy and the engine is not power enough to pickup? Is it true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T11:42:12.523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T05:16:21.067" Title="2008 Toyota Corolla 141 Fuel Consumption Too High" Tags="|toyota|fuel-consumption|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21732" CreationDate="2016-01-26T06:36:58.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Disconnecting the Battery&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing they could try is disconnecting the battery, starting the ignition to remove any current from within the system, reconnecting the battery and testing for the issue again to see if that has resolved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resetting the Immobiliser&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you'll want to tell your friend to look at the cars user manual in order to figure out how to do a proper immobiliser reset on their particular make and model of car. I am pretty sure that from what you've said that the problem lies with the cars immobiliser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T06:36:58.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:47:23.083" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I`m about to get a &lt;strong&gt;BMW 320D E46&lt;/strong&gt; Face lift model &lt;strong&gt;(2000)&lt;/strong&gt; and that is &lt;strong&gt;120K&lt;/strong&gt; driven. I would like to hear whether its worth in terms of repairs, maintenance cost ? Do I need to go each and every garage for its maintenance ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide me common repairs I need to undergo ? In terms of quality of reliability what would be your suggestion ? &lt;strong&gt;Mercedes C180 (2000) **or&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;BMW 320D (2000)&lt;/strong&gt; model** ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T07:47:23.083" Title="BMW 320D E46 Facelift" Tags="|maintenance|bmw|mercedes-benz|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-26T13:27:15.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24846" CreationDate="2016-01-26T10:14:29.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took it to a main dealer who diagnosed that the battery needed a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a quick test with the blowers doesn't seem to show any voltage loss as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T10:14:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24840" CreationDate="2016-01-26T10:16:34.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took it to a main dealer and had the car diagnosed there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They replaced the battery and so far the car seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that battery test equipment can only test it to a certain degree - e.g. it can tell if a battery is definitely gone. In my case it was gone but undetectable by such equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T10:16:34.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25319" CreationDate="2016-01-26T10:56:08.907" Score="6" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;MPG is all very well and good, considering that most people that are concerned about their fuel consumption tend to want to get &lt;em&gt;as many miles as they can&lt;/em&gt; out of it before they need to fill up again. However, I was stuck in traffic recently averaging a rather measly &lt;strong&gt;4.3 MPG&lt;/strong&gt; simply due to the fact that I had the engine on whilst I was scraping the ice off the car before I left as well as being in a lot of stop-start traffic when I did, hence not accumulating many miles for the duration of time that the engine was turning over. That does not necessarily mean that the car was inefficient, just that I wasn't able to complete that many miles &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;per gallon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the best alternative metric that I can use to be able to find or calculate the actual efficiency of the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how can I find out what this metric is on my car? Can I do it through the OBD-II port?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T14:03:28.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T14:03:28.657" Title="Alternative fuel consumption metric to MPG to measure actual engine efficiency?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|car|fuel-tank|efficiency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2016-01-26T11:08:15.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There is Brake-Specific Fuel Consumption&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is a measure of how much fuel is consumed per unit energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to look at it is the rate of fuel flow needed per unit power developed by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information is not something accessible through OBD-II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But it's not very useful in this case&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that MPG remains relevant because it is a measure of how &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; you travel on a unit of fuel. It is a far more practical measure of how efficient a vehicle is in transporting occupants. Of course, if the vehicle is just idling in traffic, this metric will not reflect well on fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't consider BSFC to be a good measure of fuel economy at idle. I'd say something like litres per hour (fuel spent per unit time) is far more representative of the cost of idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a plus, this is something accessible through OBD-II. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mode 01, PID 5E&lt;/a&gt; will give you the current fuel flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T12:32:42.737" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T12:32:42.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24840" CreationDate="2016-01-26T12:09:50.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments, I think what you need to do is verify that you have obtained reliable data about the status of your battery before you come to any rash conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am wondering why the tests came back fine unless there's a fault in my method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there probably is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this indicate that the battery needs replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trickle charger is one of the best ways that you can charge a car battery. It is much better (if you have the time) than the much more common and more convenient jump start. If a trickle charger doesn't charge your battery, likely nothing will. Also, do check the level of your battery acid because it could just be that it is low, hence your problem. Distilled water is good to use to top it up because the charge is neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in an area with a particularly cold climate, the quality of your battery is going to be much more important because a car in a cold environment will put a much larger strain on the battery than it would in a warmer environment. This could be a problem if you can't actually charge your battery fully (only to 50%) and you don't drive your car on a particularly regular basis (every two weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think that you will be leaving the car stationery for long time intervals, or you live in a cold climate, also that you have verified the level of the battery acid and verified that you are testing the battery correctly, then I would definitely suggest that you replace your battery. Get a good quality one too (or wait until you can afford one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your climate if generally fairly hot, you plan to drive your car very regularly or due to further testing you have found that the battery status is actually fine (I suspect you might, as you said you had been to &lt;em&gt;a couple&lt;/em&gt; of garages to get it checked) then I would suggest that you do not need to replace your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Listen Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to tell how healthy your battery is (and this is very easy to do), is just to start your engine and listen. If your engine springs in to life rather quickly - your battery is fine. If it sounds like it is trying to start for a few second and then eventually does, then your battery may need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this sound will become more apparent if it is cold outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Personal Experience&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had my cam belt and water pump done at the VW dealership, they also did a standard check where they identified that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24606/poor-battery-condition-replacement-required-or-is-it&quot;&gt;my battery was in poor condition&lt;/a&gt;. After doing some more work on it myself with the interior lights and boot light on for the majority of the time, my battery became flat enough not to be able to start the car (this was on a really cold day). I just jump started it and so far my car has been fine, although I do still intend to get it replaced as you can hear the poor condition of my battery even in somewhat warmer weather to a lesser extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T12:18:57.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25322" CreationDate="2016-01-26T13:47:03.643" Score="18" ViewCount="36342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a classic car restoration program on YouTube in which they were working on a '50s Cadillac with an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic in the video diagnosed a transmission glitch as a problem with the &quot;governor&quot; that was sticking due to the buildup of crud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see this part mentioned in the context of modern automatic transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the role of the governor in these all-mechanical transmissions and why are they not used in modern transmissions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T10:32:57.687" Title="What is a governor and what is it used for?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25321" CreationDate="2016-01-26T14:43:19.453" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old automatic transmissions were shifted entirely using hydraulics, not electronics. For this operation the transmission would generate 3 pressures; line pressure, throttle pressure and governor pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line pressure is generated with the front pump of the transmission. It is used to actuate clutches and bands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle pressure is a derivative of line pressure. As the name implies throttle pressure is directly related to how far the throttle pedal is pushed. It's a derivative of line pressure because line pressure is tapped to generate it. The tap then goes to a valve which is connected to the throttle pedal. When the pedal is all the way up the valve is open and no pressure is generated. When the pedal is to the metal the valve is closed and the throttle pressure is at it's maximum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Governor pressure is similar to throttle pressure in that it is a derivative of line pressure but it is generated relative to the speed of the vehicle. Normally the governor is in or near the tail shaft of the transmission. The governor has a set of fly weights (like centripetal advance in a distributor). As you drive faster the weights fly out more closing the valve and raising pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mbGU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mbGU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally everything comes together. The transmission uses spool valves to shift. When at rest and not on the throttle the governor and throttle pressures are zero and the transmission is in firs gear. The spool valve is held in the first gear position with a spring. Now you take your foot off the break but don't hit the gas. The car will slowly speed up and the governor pressure will go up. When the governor pressure is high enough it will overcome the spring and slide the spool valve over turning off first gear and turning on second gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now suppose that you are already moving in second gear and want to accelerate rapidly. You lay into the throttle pedal which causes the throttle pressure to climb. The spring pressure plus the throttle pressure is now great enough to overcome the governor pressure and slide the spool valve back to turn off second gear and turn of firs gear. You get a downshift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the engine being computer controlled the first piece of electronics that made it into the transmission is the torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid. The TCC should only come on when the engine is warm and there is no good way to give that input to the transmission. Since the engine computer already knows the engine temperature, vehicle speed and throttle position it can activate the TCC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the engine drivability was constantly improving the transmission lacked something to be desired. The valve body (housing that contains the spool valves) constantly got more complicated with shuttle valves and accumulators and other things to improve the shift quality. Eventually all of the controls of the transmission become electronic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With electronic controls the vehicle speed and throttle position is read into the computer (engine or transmission depending on the vehicle). The computer then decides when to shift. To shift, the computer activates solenoids to turn gears on and off. This greatly improved the quality of the shifts because the computer can keep track of how the transmission is shifting and then compensate for any shortcomings. The computer pulse width modulates the solenoids and by controlling the duty cycle can change the speed of the gear turning on. This can change how soft or stiff the shift is. Also by monitoring how quickly the gears engage the computer can choose when to turn the gear on. Chrysler calls this monitoring clutch volume index (CVI). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T00:49:37.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T00:49:37.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:06:18.477" Score="4" ViewCount="4260" Body="&lt;p&gt;2009 Equinox Sport. The car is warm but, the air blows cold until the car is moving. I am assuming the thermostat is stuck until the flow is increased but, would like to verify or troubleshoot better. Any assistance is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14632" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:40:01.610" Title="Blows cold until the car is moving" Tags="|heat|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25323" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:40:01.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is check the coolant level, low coolant, even slightly low can affect heater performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thermostat stuck open would make the heater air cooler once you started down the road as the increased air flow across the radiator would cool the engine down even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have poor coolant flow through the heater core that gets better when the RPM increases. This could be a partially clogged heater core, or the vanes in the water pump could be deteriorating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:40:01.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:52:15.200" Score="13" ViewCount="5284" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck supports 2 types of engine brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compression release brake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust brake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both can be selectively deactivated using switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the pro's and con's of each type of engine braking system?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(considering various factors like component lifetime, effectiveness of brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14633" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T17:19:01.790" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T17:19:01.790" Title="What are the pro's and con's of compression braking vs. exhaust braking?" Tags="|brakes|clutch|exhaust|diesel|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25310" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:47:38.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EPA (US - Environmental Protection Agency) lists the mileage for this car at 27 &lt;strong&gt;MPG&lt;/strong&gt; City, and 37 &lt;strong&gt;MPG&lt;/strong&gt; highway. That's roughly 11.47 &lt;strong&gt;Km/l&lt;/strong&gt; city and 15.73 &lt;strong&gt;Km/l&lt;/strong&gt; highway. Granted, these ratings are under absolutely perfect conditions so they are a fantasy when it comes to real world combined mileage. So let's call it a combined of roughly 26 &lt;strong&gt;MPG&lt;/strong&gt; which is 11.05 &lt;strong&gt;Km/l&lt;/strong&gt;. Still a good ~40% better than what you're seeing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least you can eliminate the weight of the vehicle and the power of the engine. A more powerful engine would use more fuel not less, so you need not worry about those things you can't change. This looks to be something wrong with the car. And running rich is a very good possibility, and that means the comment suggesting looking at the spark plugs is a very good idea. If they are dark and sooty looking you're probably running rich. Since you just got the car a tune-up would be a good idea. I just recently bought a 2000 Toyota Camry and the first thing was an oil change, spark plug replacement, air filter, fuel filter, and whatever repair items it needed. If yours needs no repairs you would still be served well by doing the maintenance items I listed. Should be fairly inexpensive especially if you do them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T16:47:38.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T17:13:08.430" Score="6" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a prototype autonomous car out of an off–the–shelf car (Toyota Yaris to be exact, but the instructions should be universal). One of the first steps is to get access to the on-board computer in order to control the throttle, brakes, gears, steering wheel and electronics (PCM, ECM, etc.). Are there any standard interfaces? What are the protocols used? Where are the endpoints? Do you know any guides or white papers on how to make an autonomous car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only basic information I found is the Wired article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2014/11/delphi-automated-driving-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A System That Any Automaker Can Use to Build Self-Driving Cars&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.pl/translate?hl=en&amp;amp;sl=pl&amp;amp;u=https://www.assembla.com/spaces/auton/wiki/Home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polish autonomous car based on Toyota Yaris&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14634" LastEditorUserId="14634" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T23:02:41.297" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T23:02:41.297" Title="How to control a car (accelerating, braking, steering) programmatically?" Tags="|toyota|can-bus|computer|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-26T21:27:06.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25332" CreationDate="2016-01-26T18:53:07.633" Score="18" ViewCount="12862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone wants their cars to use less fuel, right? I read the following passage about running the car fuel lean &lt;a href=&quot;http://courses.washington.edu/me341/oct22v2.htm&quot;&gt;from this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Run the engine fuel-lean, that is, use excess air. It is well known that fuel-lean running improves the efficiency. In the old days, under cruising conditions, the engines always ran lean – about 15% excess air -- this was economical. So what happen to change this? The problem is the three-way (CO, UHC, NOx) catalyst used on engine exhausts. This only works if the engine air/fuel ratio (by mass) is stoichiometric (chemically correct). For gasoline this ratio is 14.6:1. The engine computer, acting in concert with the engine air flow sensor, electronic fuel injectors, and exhaust oxygen sensor, maintains the stoichiometric ratio for most of your driving. Only at this ratio can the catalyst both oxidize the CO and UHC (to CO2 and H2O) and chemically reduce the NOx (to N2). (UHC = unburned hydrocarbons.) What humankind needs is a lean-NOx catalyst. Then we could have increased efficiency and continue to be clean!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This passage seems to make total sense. Use more air and increase fuel efficiency. However, I don't understand why the catalytic converter can't handle or be adapted to handle more air in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages to forcing air in to the engine by means of a turbo or supercharger that would justify a car doing or not doing it?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T00:47:57.547" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T06:02:20.693" Title="Why or why not increase engine efficiency by running the car &quot;fuel-lean&quot; (using a turbo or supercharger)?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|air-intake|air-fuel-ratio|forced-induction|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:07:18.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that the catalytic converter can't handle more air per se, it's that running lean increases the temperature of combustion (I actually don't know why, but now I'm curious) and the catalytic converter needs to run inside it's chemical operating range. Something to do with the chemistry that I also don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for advantages for turbo boost and supercharging, it's not just air that being increased, it's the air fuel mixture in correct proportion that's being increased. More air / fuel for every power stroke gives you more power. Disadvantage of turbochargers is that with the wrong design it will provide lots of power, but that power will lag the throttle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of superchargers is that they are driven by the crankshaft through a belt which means they consume some power to do their job. They clearly produce more power than they consume, but it's still reduced by however much it consumes. Because turbochargers are driven by exhaust gases, their only side effect is a slight back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other reason not to do this on your street car is that it will decrease your mileage (faster fuel consumption), and the additional power will put wear and tear on an engine that may or may not have been designed to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T11:51:44.560" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T11:51:44.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25327" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:34:01.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No car has every attribute to be fully autonomous out of the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes: If a vehicle is equipped with dynamic stability control then software control of the brakes is possible. Dynamic stability control incorporates all the needed pieces to operate the brakes without driver input. The base software will not incorporate software brake control and will require hacking to incorporate the feature. If a vehicle does not have dynamic stability control it will need a third party system that can press the brake pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle: With the incorporation of throttle by wire the task has become far easier. There are provisions for accepting commands to control the throttle for diagnostic purposes. The latency can vary among systems. It may be necessary to hack the software to incorporate a direct bridge to the throttle commands. If the vehicle does not have throttle by wire it may be possible to use cruise control to substitute. Cruise controls operation at low speed and low throttle angle tends to be unstable and jittery. I would recommend installing a third party actuator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering: If a vehicle has electric power steering then it may be possible to have software controlled steering. These systems measure the torque from the steering wheel and then apply the same torque but in the opposite direction for a net torque of zero. They incorporate a steering angle sensor. As with just about everything else hacking the software would be required. If the vehicle does not have electric power steering (hydro electric does not count) the a third party actuator would be required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifter: Many cars now incorporate fully electronic transmission controls. These would be totally software controllable. Other transmissions have electronic control but still retain a physical shifter. The physical shifter incorporates a connection to the transmission to operate the parking paw. In this and all other cases a third party actuator would be required to operate the shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:34:01.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:44:28.330" Score="23" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Lean ≠ More Air&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I believe the source of the misunderstanding is in how the term &amp;quot;lean&amp;quot; is being interpreted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lean mixture doesn't indicate the presence of more air. It indicates the presence of a higher proportion of air compared to fuel (air-fuel ratio, or &lt;em&gt;AFR&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixture A has 1,000 g of air, 80 g of fuel. AFR = 1000/80 = 12.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixture B has 100 g of air, 7 g of fuel. AFR = 100/7 = 14.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 14.3 &amp;gt; 12.5, Mixture B is leaner than Mixture A, even though Mixture A has more air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25330/675&quot;&gt;@cdunn is right&lt;/a&gt;; the presence of a turbocharger or supercharger doesn't impact the ability of an appropriately-sized catalytic converter from doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why is it not good for cats to run lean?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A catalytic converter is designed to scrub harmful gases out of exhaust gases. It does this through a chemical reaction that involves the presence of catalyst(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most popular type of cat design today is the three-way catalytic converter, which handles three types of harmful gases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nitrogen oxides (NOx, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; NOS)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon monoxide (CO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unburnt hydrocarbons (HC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is that cats work well in a narrow AFR window, as this image shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w14ss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NOx, CO, HC vs AFR&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run too lean&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and the cat will have a hard time scrubbing NOx out of the exhaust gases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run too rich&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and your tailpipe will have a lot more HC, CO content&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:07:27.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25335" CreationDate="2016-01-26T21:00:47.163" Score="11" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25330/14003&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that a catalytic converter needs to operate within a certain &quot;chemical range&quot; otherwise it will generate unnecessary heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is a catalytic converter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is their purpose on a car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they necessary (i.e. do all cars have them)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why does it need to operate within a certain chemical range?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZpBy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZpBy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Catalytic Converter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a funny looking thing. This is one of those things that I often hear about but still don't really understand what it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T22:13:22.630" Title="What exactly is a catalytic converter and why does it need to operate within a certain range?" Tags="|car|overheating|catalytic-converter|chemicals|thermodynamics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25333" CreationDate="2016-01-26T21:41:34.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A catalytic converter incorporates a structure that is coated in precious metals. When catalytic converters first came out that structure was ceramic balls coated in the metals. This didn't work so well and the structure was changed to either a honey comb or a monolith, both ceramic. The tubes of the honey comb run the length of the converter. A monolith is similar to the honey comb but squares instead of the hexagons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four metals in a catalytic converter are platinum, rhodium, palladium and cerium. These metals react with the four offending pollutants when the temperature of the converter is sufficiently high. The expression &quot;the converter lit off&quot; refers to the temperature reaching sufficiently high to start the chemical reaction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The offending emissions are oxides of nitrogen (NOx), hydrocarbons (HC) and  carbon monoxide (CO). These pollutants are broken down during different conditions. CO and HC are broken down when the fuel mixture is lean. The lean mixture contains more oxygen and that excess oxygen is used to oxidize the CO into CO2 and break the HC into CO2 and H2O. NOx is broken down during a rich mixture when there is very little oxygen. NOx is broken down into N2 and O2 releasing oxygen. These processes in the converter are preformed by the platinum, rhodium and palladium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cerium in the converter is used as an oxygen storage device. When the mixture is lean the cerium stores up oxygen. When the mixture is rich the the cerium releases the oxygen to help convert the pollutants that need oxygen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the conditions that break down the pollutants are opposite of each other the car needs to switch back and forth from lean to rich and back again continuously to properly convert all the emissions. This leads the vehicle to operate in a tight band around stoichiometric or 14.7:1, dashing back and forth across it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These emissions are bad for you (there is lots of info available on google). They are converted to not harmful things by the catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US all highway vehicles require a catalytic converter. The exceptions are very old cars, cars over 10,000 pounds, diesel vehicles (they have something else), there are others but these are most common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T01:31:14.953" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:31:14.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25333" CreationDate="2016-01-26T21:46:30.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of this comes from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter2.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, attacking each of these in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What exactly is a catalytic converter?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULYeL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULYeL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Catalytic converter location&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;It is a device in the exhaust path of your car that scrubs unwanted gases from the exhaust stream.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does it work?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DSW33.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DSW33.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interior of the catalytic converter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In chemistry, a catalyst speeds up a chemical reaction without actually taking part in it. In the case of the one in your car the catalyst is platinum, rhodium, palladium, and today even gold. There are two types of catalyst in your car, reduction and oxidation catalysts. The general idea is that you create a box that is parked in the exhaust stream that exposes as much surface area of the catalyst as possible, while keeping the amount of the catalyst small as they are very expensive. Today they use gold in some because it is less expensive than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Go2i0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Go2i0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Catalyst Cross Section&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the converter and is used to scrub NO or NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; molecules from the gas stream. When those molecules hit the catalyst they are converted into N and O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. N and O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; are benign, NO and NO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second stage is there to reduce the emissions of hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning them on the catalyst honeycomb screen seen above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is their purpose on a car?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See above. They remove unwanted toxic gases from the exhaust stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Are they necessary (i.e. do all cars have them)?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US at least every car after 1975 was required to have one. You cannot register a car here if it has been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why does it need to operate within a certain chemical range?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why does the chemistry only work within a narrow band of fuel air mixture, I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing, and I think you got this idea from me so I apologize for not being clear. It's not a case of the converter causes excess heat when operating outside its chemical design range. If the engine is running too lean, it's the running lean that causes the heat, not the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T15:17:35.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T22:40:33.803" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an problem with the brakes after the ABS has been activated on snowy roads the brake pedal drops about 75% and stays there for quite a while. Eventually it comes back up to a regular pedal again, until the ABS is activated and then the pedal drops again.  The last time I lost the pedal it hasn't come back up to normal for 2 weeks now. The brakes still work fine, just a very low pedal. I have bled the brakes once and the car had new pads and rotors 6 months ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14637" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:21:58.540" Title="2006 Mazda 3 low brake pedal" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T23:41:09.163" Score="2" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '95 Grand Marquis (or as I like to call it, a Grandma Rquis) is suddenly very loud.  There doesn't seem to be any issue with the performance, and when it's idling, it's as quiet as can be. I'm wondering if there is a vacuum or air leak or if it's something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recorded audio of it. I hope links are permitted here. Any help would be great!  I'm hoping to avoid a costly repair, though I'm going to take it in to the mechanic tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://soundcloud.com/kate_sedgwick/what-is-the-issue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's the audio upload&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, the sound is coming directly from under the hood. It's impossible for me to tell where since I don't have anyone to hit the gas for me while I listen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14642" LastEditorUserId="14642" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T23:54:31.530" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T00:55:31.947" Title="1995 Mercury Grand Marquis, loud whine corresponding to engine revving" Tags="|engine|noise|car|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25339" CreationDate="2016-01-27T00:55:31.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the clutch for the fan has gone out and is now stuck, causing the fan to operate &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt; (no slippage occurring). You can check to see if this is the case by opening your hood &lt;strong&gt;without the engine running and cold&lt;/strong&gt;, grab the fan blade, and rotate the fan. If the fan doesn't rotate or rotate easily, this is most likely your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T00:55:31.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-27T01:05:49.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One additional point to touch on is that &lt;em&gt;leaner&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;richer&lt;/em&gt; are relative to what conditions the engine already runs under. In terms of chemical reactions, car engines tend to run a little rich by default -- more fuel than is needed for all of the air -- because it reduces the frequency of detonations in the mixture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you alter things so they run &lt;em&gt;leaner&lt;/em&gt; than the designed operation conditions, you may move into stoichiometric combustion. This means that all the fuel is consumed by all the air and the reactions are exactly balanced. This is also to detonations. This results in pinging (or knocking) and damage to the cylinders and pistons. If you change things to make it more lean by enough to move beyond the stoichiometric ratio, the threat of detonation is reduced but if you move too lean, you will increase the rate of misfires -- more damage to the engine (and the catalytic converter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14645" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:05:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T21:18:28.270" Score="6" ViewCount="4993" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Volvo S80, it's great in ground-level snow. I tried going up an incline in &quot;D&quot; and it wasn't having it, basically just slowed down and stopped dead in its tracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used the 3 - 2 - 1 shift positions before. Don't know If I understand them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they like basically limiting where you shift to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in D, this is fourth gear, so I go from 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 and stay in 4th. But with 3rd it's 1 - 2 - 3 and I stay in 3rd?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why exactly is staying in 3rd a good thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't 4th the most powerful gear to be in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I digress, what automatic gear should I shift to when driving up a snowy incline 1,2,or 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" OwnerDisplayName="AppleFix88" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T01:22:07.227" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:08:14.003" Title="What is the best &quot;automatic&quot; gear to be in when going up a snowy incline?" Tags="|gears|driving|traction-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T01:18:21.540" Score="7" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;My engine stalled and wont restart - All I did was downshift...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2005 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country Limited.  V6 - 3.8 Liter EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some history, a couple days ago I noticed a clicking sound - it sounded like a playing card in spokes - or a helicopter sound... It intensified as I accelerated.  Not sure what that was or whether it is related to what happened today...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I had to use the car to drop kids off at school.  On my way home, it pained me to accelerate because I was concerned that I was harming the engine.  When slowing down, I shifted from &quot;D&quot; to &quot;L&quot; (at around 15 PMH), and the engine just stopped.  The engine won't start at all.  battery is good, won't even turn over.  One strange thing, the power windows won't work, but the power sliding doors open and close fine.  Could I have blown a fuse causing the engine to stop immediately, and then to not start?  Is this a failsafe engineered into the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14643" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T02:24:29.123" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T02:24:29.123" Title="My engine stalled and wont restart - after downshifting - Automatic Trans" Tags="|engine|starting|chrysler|stall|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T08:20:43.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25337" CreationDate="2016-01-27T01:21:58.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine just had his ABS unit replaced for this problem. We therorise that the dump valve is stuck open. Because the valve is open the break pressure is exposed to the accumulator. During an ABS stop the accumulator bleeds access pressure into the accumulator. The accumulator is in essence a piston and spring. When the ABS event is over the dump valve will return fluid back into the system. If the dump valve is stuck open then the breaks won't engage until the accumulator piston bottoms out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try having a shop preform ABS bleeds by activating it with a scan tool. This may help but probably won't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:21:58.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25346" CreationDate="2016-01-27T01:43:10.090" Score="2" ViewCount="2120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 9th Generation Honda Civic (2012). It has wheel buttons which have worn down (actually transparent the cheap paint came off), and one of the sides even chipped. This is on the left side of the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I buy this button? I can't find it in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog.asp?m=2012-civic-4-ex-5at&amp;amp;year=2012&amp;amp;dl=207805&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online catalog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIVbw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIVbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;imid button&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="999" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T17:48:51.107" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:10:10.167" Title="What is the part number for the i-mid source wheel on a 9th generation Civic?" Tags="|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25345" CreationDate="2016-01-27T02:18:45.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it. The part number for the 2012 is &lt;code&gt;35880-TR0-A01&lt;/code&gt;. The part isn't listed on the official Honda Parts site but you can find it on HondaPartsNow. It's called &lt;code&gt;Switch Assy., Audio Remote&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~switch~assy~audio~remote~35880-TR0-A01.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~switch~assy~audio~remote~35880-TR0-A01.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T02:18:45.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:05:08.527" Score="7" ViewCount="3515" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I could not get my keys out of my 2005 Town and Country. Soon after, the battery ran out of juice. If I jump the battery, I can start the car and drive it. But when I park the vehicle I can not remove the keys. After a little while, the battery will die. I do not think any electrical gadgetry is on: no lights, ect. I now hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse &amp;amp; relay box until the car runs out of power, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are possible causes of this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Lynn Crumbling's solutions, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastEditorUserId="14648" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T18:59:36.217" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T23:32:37.540" Title="Key Doesn't come out of Town and Country" Tags="|ignition|chrysler|ignition-key|town-and-country|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:09:07.400" Score="3" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today morning I came across this sad story. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land Rover Defender production to end this Friday (29th Jan 2016).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailypost.co.uk/business/business-news/land-rover-defender-production-end-10790895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dailypost.co.uk/business/business-news/land-rover-defender-production-end-10790895&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will they introduce an upgrade version of &lt;code&gt;Defender&lt;/code&gt; ? At least face version like '&lt;code&gt;Khan&lt;/code&gt;' ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reasons behind its &lt;strong&gt;discontinuation&lt;/strong&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that I used &lt;code&gt;Jaguar&lt;/code&gt; as the Site wont allow me to use either &lt;code&gt;LandRover&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Defender&lt;/code&gt; as tags. Sorry for the inconvenience caused.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T03:09:07.400" Title="LandRover Defender Discontinues" Tags="|jaguar|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-27T06:51:36.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25347" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:20:41.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your shifter may not be seating into park correctly. You may want to try moving it back and forth from gear into park (occasionally, with a slight amount of force; you don't want to break anything). Verify that the key is not in the accessory position, and each time you switch to park, try to remove the key. I've also seen the key release mechanism tied to the brake pedal. When shifting to park, try pushing the brake pedal in at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as DucatiKiller pointed out, turning the steering wheel at the same time might be beneficial. Finally, Jonathan Musso mentioned that he's &quot;heard that sometimes anti-theft can be the culprit --- when the battery dies&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T03:45:06.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T03:45:06.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:32:52.517" Score="4" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the &lt;strong&gt;Nissan Leaf&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if it can travel a maximum &lt;strong&gt;180&lt;/strong&gt; Kms. Is there a portable device that could charge the vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do car experts say it is not good to charge it daily from a &lt;strong&gt;Rapid Charging&lt;/strong&gt; Station? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the brake pads last &lt;strong&gt;90K&lt;/strong&gt; miles ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the &lt;strong&gt;Nissan Leaf&lt;/strong&gt; with solar panel charge the vehicle rapidly or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks In Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T03:47:19.053" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T18:01:28.180" Title="Nissan Leaf 2013 - 2015 Model" Tags="|nissan|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25069" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:09:11.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the care to the a mechanic and they said it was or could be two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the battery dies sometimes the internal computer\memory needs to be reset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car's throttle body needed cleaning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far it has not stalled after having both of these done (5 days now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure which of the above actually of the above fixed the issue ... maybe both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;df&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:09:11.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:09:14.063" Score="1" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have lost my &lt;code&gt;Toyota&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Premio&lt;/code&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Smart Key&lt;/strong&gt;, how do I get a &lt;strong&gt;replacement&lt;/strong&gt;? Is there anything I should do to prevent the old key from being used if it was stolen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T07:02:41.973" Title="Toyota Premio SMART Key" Tags="|toyota|smartkey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25333" CreationDate="2016-01-27T05:46:32.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;• Why does it need to operate within a certain chemical range?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gasoline engine catalyst feedgas (exhaust gasses) must remain in a very small window of fuel mixture because the chemical reactions the that reduce NOx and oxidize hydrocarbons are mixture dependent and mutually exclusive.  NOx can only be reduced in a fuel rich environment and HC can only oxidized in a lean, oxygen available, environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The most important governing equations for HC oxidation are:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H2 + 0.5O2 -&gt; H2O (i) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO + 0.5O2 -&gt; CO2 (ii) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C3H6 + 4.5O2 -&gt; 3CO2 + 3H2O (iii) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C3H8 + 5O2 -&gt; 3CO2 + 4H2O (iv) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The most important governing equations for NOx reduction are:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H2 + NO -&gt; H2O + 0.5N2 (v) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CO + NO -&gt; CO2 + 0.5N2 (vi) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C3H6 + 9NO -&gt; 3CO2 + 3H2O + 4.5N2 (vii) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C3H8 + 10NO -&gt; 3CO2 + 4H2O + 5N2 (viii) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cerium reaction:&#xA;Ce2O3 + 0.5O2 -&gt; 2CeO2 (ix) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fuel mixture that meets the requirements of both set of reactions is mixture very near stoichiometric.  The catalyst will reduce about 80% of the input NOx and HC as long as the mixture is kept within this very small window of fuel mixture, the operating window is AFR’s from 14.55 to 14.69. (Lambda .995 to 1.005). That is a mixture that does stray from stoichiometric by more than ½ of 1 percent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A graphic representing this concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXSsD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXSsD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common misunderstanding is that the mixture is required to cycle from rich to lean for the reactions to complete. This is not true; it needs to stay in the window. In older systems it was required to cycle the mixture to keep it in the window because a narrowband oxygen sensor only reports mixture at stoichiometric. Wide band sensors do not cycle the mixture; they hold steady mixture in an even smaller window which improves pollutant conversion to rates above the 80% that was achievable with the narrowband cycling system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T05:46:32.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25380" CreationDate="2016-01-27T06:02:02.703" Score="10" ViewCount="46740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car that is 7 years old and unfortunately hit a curb which bent the front strut on the drivers side. Do I need to replace both struts? Or just the damaged strut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1464/should-you-replace-shocks-in-pairs&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3110/if-one-coil-spring-needs-replacing-do-i-need-to-replace-both&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but the difference is this was not caused by normal wear-and-tear. The strut on the other side is perfectly fine and shouldn't be in danger of failing anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14244" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T22:53:35.623" Title="Do I need to replace both front struts if one is OK" Tags="|suspension|shock-absorber|damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25369" CreationDate="2016-01-27T06:47:25.180" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking up the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=do+cars+release+much+water%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another question using Google&lt;/a&gt; regarding the water output from a normal internal combusted engine powered car, I noticed that - to my surprise - all the top hits were about &lt;strong&gt;water powered cars&lt;/strong&gt;. Cars that run on water are actually a thing apparently!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are water powered cars?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How exactly do they work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T10:11:52.247" Title="Water Powered Cars - What are these things?" Tags="|fuel-system|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T06:56:11.857" Score="6" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Celica. At first it used to slip gears and then I had a mechanic check it out. He said its a solenoid in the transmission which he changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car sputters sometimes when at top speeds or on the highway.  It acts like it doesn't want to move well or sometimes kicks in. When I buy fuel at the station it just shakes and the engine dies. Please, what could be wrong with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14649" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T14:02:56.677" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:29:14.420" Title="2000 Celica engine dies or shakes when I pump gas" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|automatic-transmission|celica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25375" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:00:14.470" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone please tell me what &lt;code&gt;BlueTEC HYBRID&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Blue Efficiency&lt;/code&gt; mean and the pros and cons of those ? Are those better than BMWs &lt;code&gt;Efficient Dynamics&lt;/code&gt; ? Common faults they undergo ? Maintenance criteria ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T15:11:22.987" Title="Mercedes Benz E300 BlueTEC HYBRID" Tags="|bmw|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25352" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:02:41.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to take it to a Toyota dealership in your local area (if you have one) and see what they have to say. As you don't have the key any more (as opposed to it just being broken) you need to take it to the main dealer as they are likely the only ones that can do anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T07:02:41.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25391" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:42:10.177" Score="9" ViewCount="2037" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 2006 Formula 1 World Championship the rules allowed for pneumatic valvesprings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These engines were required to have a 90° V8 engine with 2.4 liters of displacement, 4-valve-per cylinder layout with two overhead cams per cylinder bank and pneumatic valvesprings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these engines were exceeding 20,000 RPM's at the end of the season.  Driving the reciprocal weight of a poppet valve at 20,000 RPM's is absolutely astonishing and from the outside looking in seems almost impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How did the F1 engineers design these valves to function?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were required to run cams so this wasn't a camless solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How did the cams interact with the pneumatic valve springs?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Did the engine drive a pneumatic pump that provided air pressure or did they need to fill an air tank much as the CART series team had to do with their pneumatic valve solution?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:12:12.367" Title="Pneumatic Valve Spring Operation in Formula 1" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:42:48.143" Score="7" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Vespa PX 150.It is using Contact Point system. The issue is it is consuming fuel more than average and the plug is full of carbon after approx 50 Km.The engine not start unless I clean the carbon from the plug. As I clean the carbon from the plug then my scooter starts . I am using NGK spark plug.There is no extra weight on it that u may say it is the cause of more fuel consumption.The air pressure in the wheel is also ok.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also regularly tune my carburetor after every 400 KM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kindly guide me that that should I change my carburetor or its jets or there is any other problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gardenair&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T19:30:03.813" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:30:03.813" Title="Vespa PX 150 Fuel and Carbon issue" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|scooter|points|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:53:36.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running a lean mixture by itself isn't necessarily going to cause detonation, pinging or knocking. WW2 era old timer piston aircraft pilots used to run seriously lean mixtures on long hauls to increase range and it was safe to do so when they were at cruising altitude and power settings. You'd never consider doing it in a climb or at a high power though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an automotive engine, you'd have to have adaptive programming that would adjust the mixture from rich to lean depending on what level of load the engine was under. On a long haul, level roadway at steady highway speeds, you could probably run lean a good amount of the time, but for your typical city style stop and go, or hilly terrain, you'd probably never be in a power range where it would be safe, efficient or effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for emissions, running lean definitely does create Nitrogen Oxides, so that may be of added concern in smog prone areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14653" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T08:34:18.603" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:34:18.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25360" CreationDate="2016-01-27T07:55:20.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your experiencing fouled plugs.  Fouled plugs have carbon buildup that grounds the electrode of the spark plugs over the ceramic with carbon.  The carbon buildup occurs because the AFR (Air Fuel Ration) is too rich.  This makes the combustion process, when you fuel is burned, too cool.  Since combustion is too cool carbon buildup occurs on your sparkplug and now you can't start your scooter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to check and most of them involve cleaning up your carburetor and your air intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Validate that the NGK sparkplug that your are buying is the correct one for the scooter.  If the plug is too 'cold' because it is incorrect you can experience plug fouling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean your air filter.  Make sure it's not too restrictive.  You best bet is to replace it if yours is dirty and clogged.  Purchase a foam air filter you can clean and re use if they are available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Points are cheap and the condenser can go bad and not provide enough electricity to your coil to have a good spark.  A good way to eyeball if your spark is bad is to remove the sparkplug from the scooter and put it in the end of your sparkplug wire.  Allow the sparkplug to rest against the engine of your scooter so it's grounded and turn it over. If the spark is orange you have an issue.  If it is whiter or blue, it's fine and don't worry about the points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your floatbowl on your carburetor isn't leaking.  If it is, it can fill your crank case with fuel and when you run the bike it's adding additional fuel to your mixture and fouling your plug.  You would need to remove your carburetor and then your floatbowl and clean out the carburetor with carburetor cleaner.  Use the little red tube that's provided with the can of compressed carburetor cleaner to squirt into any brass jets your have as well as your carb needle and seat where the fuel can leak into the system from.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it put back together make sure any vacuum lines are reattached to their proper nipples so you don't develop a lean condition from an unmetered air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have additional questions, please open a new one.  Remember, you are getting too much fuel from either an a restricted air flow or a carburetor issue more than likely.  If you need direction on timing the scooter because you want to replace your points, that's an entirely new question and feel free to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As @sweber states below in his comment.  Check that your choke is not sticking.  Your problem could be as simple as that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T00:08:32.343" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T00:08:32.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25471" CreationDate="2016-01-27T08:21:13.290" Score="5" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many engine designers measure success with &lt;code&gt;Brake Mean Effective Pressure&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the equations used to calculate &lt;code&gt;Brake Mean Effective Pressure&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this a more or less effective measurement than other frameworks of measurement such as BSFC as illiterated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22121/fuel-consumption-at-same-speed-of-different-engine/22159#22159&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does understanding BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) drive engine design and solve performance problems that other equation tools cannot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T19:30:52.673" Title="Brake Mean Effective Pressure, how is this an effective measurement tool for engines?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11956" CreationDate="2016-01-27T08:28:20.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have another issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery doesn't sound like to the core issue that you are experiencing.  I propose that your stator or rectifier have gone bad thus you are experiencing a situation where you have to have your battery serviced.  The motorcycle should be 'servicing your battery' and charging it as you ride the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to test your stator and your rectifier to discover the root cause of the issue rather than treating the symptoms.  This will require a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=multimeter&amp;amp;oq=multimeter&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l4.1915j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multimeter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are special wires and insulated a bit more, these are one of the few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke in-take.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then you must replace it..  If you have infinite in both directions you will need to replace the rectifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this gives you some troubleshooting tools to remediate your issue.  Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T08:35:12.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:35:12.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25386" CreationDate="2016-01-27T09:00:03.140" Score="15" ViewCount="3460" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interesting Configuration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport/models/yzf-r1&quot;&gt;Yamaha R1&lt;/a&gt; has a very strange intake design.  Notice the intake horns in the image below.  They sit above the throttle bodies and are not attached directly to them leaving an air gap between the throttle bodies and these horns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the full assembly were visible this would all be shrouded in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airbox&quot;&gt;airbox&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why are they doing this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the benefits of the intake horns sitting above the throttle bodies with a gap between them?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Could this be a method to reduce &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance&quot;&gt;resonance&lt;/a&gt; within the airbox at high RPM running?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lr82d.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lr82d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T23:38:10.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:47:49.033" Title="Yamaha R1 intake tract configuration" Tags="|motorcycle|engine-theory|air-intake|intake-manifold|throttle-body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25365" CreationDate="2016-01-27T09:15:11.027" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'floating' intake runners are moved by a mechanism, coupling and decoupling them from the main intake runners to increase the overall length for better low RPM performance. This process was recently discussed here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25236/how-does-intake-manifold-runner-length-effect-the-power-curve-of-a-car&quot;&gt;mech.SE on inlet runner length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see that having the extension pieces in the decoupled position would have any effect of the resonant properties of the air box, particularly as they have open ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple of pictures of another, very similar, Yamaha system shown in both states:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byZsz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/byZsz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKcp7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKcp7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamahapart.com/page/yamahaycci&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is an article from Yamaha that explains the system and the purpose of it.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T18:08:27.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-27T09:49:22.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lean operation vs exhaust catalysts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter#Three-way&quot;&gt;three-way catalytic converter&lt;/a&gt; fitted to gasoline vehicles can't operate under lean engine conditions because the reaction of NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; to nitrogen and oxygen is a reduction reaction, and for this to occur there needs to be a corresponding oxidation. In the three-way catalyst that is the oxidation of CO and hydrocarbons to CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. If excess oxygen was present then the oxygen, rather than the NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; would act as the oxidising agent for CO and HCs - because it's a more powerful oxidising agent - and the NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; would remain unreacted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technology for reducing NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; without the presence of corresponding oxidisable gases in the engine exhaust does exist and is increasingly used on diesel engines, which do run lean. However it needs more equipment in the vehicle, adding cost and complexity, and some approaches require an additive which needs to be replenished as it's used up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn&quot;&gt;Lean burn technology&lt;/a&gt; has been used in gasoline engines in the past, but perhaps failed to catch on because of the tightening regulations on NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; emissions - it may make a reappearance as NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; reduction technology becomes more established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages and disadvantages of turbochargers and superchargers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a turbocharger or supercharger allows more power output for the same engine displacement - or, a smaller engine displacement for the same power output. This means the engine can be smaller and lighter, and smaller cylinders have lower friction losses. The latest small gasoline engines such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_EcoBoost_engine&quot;&gt;Ford's Ecoboost range&lt;/a&gt; typically use both supercharging and turbocharging to give high fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of turbocharging or supercharging is the added complexity and cost of the equipment, but this is increasingly seen as worthwhile for the efficiency gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14043" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T09:49:22.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25370" CreationDate="2016-01-27T09:59:04.263" Score="21" ViewCount="3515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that the differential (or &quot;diff&quot;) is the thing that allows the drive shaft to transfer its rotational velocity to the front or rear axle in order to move the car. As far as I know, the diff is the part that also allows each wheel to turn independently of each other, so as not to drag the outside tire going round a corner, which would increase tire wear and decrease fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How exactly does a differential work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How does the diff enable each wheel to turn at different speeds?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How are some cars able to dynamically adjust the amount of power to each wheel (in more high tech systems)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:33:04.097" Title="How exactly does a differential work?" Tags="|car|differential|rear-differential|front-differential|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25355" CreationDate="2016-01-27T10:11:52.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - they are a hoax, and they don't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to power a car with water is to electrolyse the water into Hydrogen and Oxygen using an external power source (and it uses a lot of energy to do this), store the Hydrogen in the car and use that (with oxygen from the atmosphere) to power a Hydrogen fuel cell - the output from which is water and energy. Like every other system, there are losses involved, so you always get less energy out than you put in - that's a fundamental law of physics...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T10:11:52.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25368" CreationDate="2016-01-27T10:59:00.577" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a Differential ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A differential’s job is to compensate for differences. Specifically&#xA;the differences in wheel speed when turning. For instance, imagine&#xA;taking a corner. Your inside wheel has a shorter distance to travel&#xA;than the outside wheel as you go around the corner. That means that&#xA;your outside wheel has to turn faster to keep pace with the inside&#xA;wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The differential allows the wheels to turn at different speeds while&#xA;still providing power. Without a differential, the tires would scrub&#xA;and hop along the pavement during turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working Principle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found an excellent online source &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanicalmania.blogspot.com/2011/07/construction-working-of-differential.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque is supplied from the engine, via the transmission, to a drive&#xA;shaft, which runs to the final drive unit that contains the&#xA;differential.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A spiral bevel pinion gear takes its drive from the end of the&#xA;propeller shaft, and is encased within the housing of the final drive&#xA;unit. This meshes with the large spiral bevel ring gear, known as the&#xA;crown wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The crown wheel and pinion may mesh in hypoid orientation, not shown.&#xA;The crown wheel gear is attached to the differential carrier or cage,&#xA;which contains the 'sun' and 'planet' wheels or gears, which are a&#xA;cluster of four opposed bevel gears in perpendicular plane, so each&#xA;bevel gear meshes with two neighbours, and rotates counter to the&#xA;third, that it faces and does not mesh with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two sun wheel gears are aligned on the same axis as the crown&#xA;wheel gear, and drive the axle half shafts connected to the vehicle's&#xA;driven wheels. The other two planet gears are aligned on a&#xA;perpendicular axis which changes orientation with the ring gear's&#xA;rotation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically no matter which wheel experiences load the planetary gears will corresponding to them will compensate for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability of a diff to send various amounts of power on demand to individual wheel is called a Torque vectoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They generally have a electric actuator attached to the diff assembly to assist with the torque distribution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more advanced info on torque vectoring , &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwwFZAbYGW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; video will be helpful.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqLIi.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqLIi.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info on torque vectoring can be found in this good question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23103/lexus-rcf-torque-vectoring-differential-how-does-it-work&quot;&gt;How does torque diff work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T16:32:43.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T12:42:27.080" Score="6" ViewCount="2187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the wiring diagram for a 2013 Ford Fusion with the SONY system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with my front left woofer, in that it sometimes it cuts out. Sometimes when it does finally cut back in, it is distorted. It does seem that when it is below freezing is when both the cutting out/distortionn occurs. Trying to determine if it's the speaker, wiring, or the amp/dsp. My first order of business will be swapping the front woofers to see if the problem switches sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on the above would be helpful as well :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14660" LastEditorUserId="14660" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T13:23:22.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T19:28:46.777" Title="Looking for 2013 Ford Fusion Stereo wiring diagram - SONY system" Tags="|audio|fusion|diagram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25394" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:12:13.810" Score="15" ViewCount="25992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been removing core plugs from an engine I'm rebuilding with varying levels of violence. The engine block is aluminium and I'd like to reduce the chance of of me damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I remove plugs while minimising the risk of damaging the engine block?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(example of core a plug... not my engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQ5yz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQ5yz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T10:55:48.157" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T10:55:48.157" Title="How to Remove Core Plugs? (aka Freeze Plugs)" Tags="|engine|rebuild|freeze-plug|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2016-01-27T14:37:46.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an additional reason for not running lean, which applies very well to turbocharged engines - the extra fuel creates a 'boundary layer' between the combustion products and the cylinder wall. This absorbs extra heat during combustion to help keep the chamber temperature within tolerance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modded cars that run very high turbo/supercharger boost are frequently on the point of running too lean, in that the injectors cannot supply sufficient fuel to maintain this boundary layer, and the combustion chamber pressure/temperature increases. In extreme cases this results in detonation/knocking, and under high boost can cause physical piston damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:41:59.260" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:41:59.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25357" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:11:22.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BlueEFFICIENCY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mercedes-Benz claims, it reduces fuel consumption by up to &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12551&amp;amp;d=1282863145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;12.1%&lt;/a&gt;, without a performance drop. They also claim that it is environment-friendly (Consume less fuel and emit less CO2) They are achieving these by doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing car's weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower aerodynamic drag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smart dynamo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fraction resisted tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission suggestion monitor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel-save gear ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine start-stop rest state in traffic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BlueTEC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better and newer version of BlueEFFICIENCY again by MB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can see comparison of &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12551&amp;amp;d=1282863145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S350 CDI BlueEFF   vs   S350 BlueTEC&#xA;     2987cc        -       2987cc&#xA;     235hp       +8.50%    255hp&#xA;     540Nm       +7.00%    580Nm&#xA;     37.2 mpg    +13.0%    42.2 mpg&#xA;     199 g/km    -11.0%    178 g/km&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you can see the power &amp;amp; performance increase, fuel economy and reduced CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EfficientDynamics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW version of Mercedes-Benz BlueTEC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't be listing additionally because they are nearly the same but &lt;a href=&quot;http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/an-in-depth-look-at-how-bmw-s-efficientdynamics-works-70177_7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a picture which shows the ED specs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased performance, better fuel economy and less CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a BMW E46 3.20i user, and now I have got a BMW F30 3.20i&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about it and there is too much improvement in technical specs between 2 cars. I believe it will continue to improve drastically with the developing technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very happy with my car so the difference is real :) As for MB, I am not a fan of it, but I am sure (and most people say) BMW and MB are similar and in competition with each other so you can expect the same outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T15:11:22.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25382" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:20:34.723" Score="15" ViewCount="18123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to run cables through my firewall (the wall between the engine bay and the seating area) but I can't seem to find any factory placed holes to pull cables through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a lot of people told me its pretty easy to find a place to drill through safely, drill a hole through the firewall and then seal it off so water can't flow through. I agree with them but is there a good and smart way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specific drill(bit) to use? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of sealant to use? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to apply some anti-rust of any kind? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do I need to pay attention to when drilling through the firewall?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I don't know the proper name of the metal sheet that's between the engine bay and seating area, since its goal is to stop fire from spreading I called it a firewall (feel free to improve if you see fit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T19:53:38.267" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T11:50:55.007" Title="Safe way to drill through the engine bay firewall" Tags="|seal|drillbit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:06:52.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bit of transmissions 101&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First gear makes the most torque / power, but has the lowest top speed and worst fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top gear has the highest top speed and best fuel economy, but the least amount of power and torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an auto, leaving it in D is fine 99% of the time unless you need more power.  Shifting into 3, 2, or 1 typically limits you to that gear and the gears below it.  So 3 will access 1, 2, and 3.  In my truck - 2 will be 2 only, and 1 will shift up into 2 @ 3K RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what gear you should you be in depends on your vehicle.  I would lean toward second gear.  You will need to pay attention to how fast you are going and your RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - in the snow, you will likely have more issues with traction (spinning the tires) than not having enough power.  Momentum is very important when driving in the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:06:52.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25354" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:20:56.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brakes and suspension should always be done in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you REALLY don't care about the car, you could just replace the one, but it could lead to alignment/tire wear/vehicle stability issues down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:20:56.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25356" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:29:14.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stalling at high speed could be a variety and/or combination of things: clogged fuel filter, dying fuel pump, collapsing rubber fuel line.  The need for a high fuel flow (engine demand) can cause old rubber fuel lines to collapse (Bernoulli effect). Fuel pump or fuel filter are self-explanatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Celica is fuel injected.  If you uncap your gas tank with the engine running, that will affect fuel flow and make your engine stall.  That's also an unsafe action: unsafe for you and everybody at the station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:29:14.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25354" CreationDate="2016-01-27T18:07:38.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key assumption in the OP's question was that replacement in pairs was because if one failed then the other must be close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually about making them the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the car has a tiny number of miles on it, the two struts will always be in different parts of their lives. That means the original one will always be more worn than the replacement will be. That leads to all the things the other answer here mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has any value and you want to drive it for a while, you're better off to replace them in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="14244" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T06:53:19.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T06:53:19.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T18:16:35.943" Score="6" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning, I scraped my car against my mom's car by accident. I noticed a white scuff above her rear driver tire as well on the front of my Suzuki xl7 with a dent. Can I get it out without taking it to the shop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14668" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T19:58:44.837" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:40:34.280" Title="I scraped my car against my moms and i need to remove the white scratches" Tags="|paint|suzuki|kia|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25376" CreationDate="2016-01-27T18:47:53.390" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think we have enough to call this an answer now. Here's how to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can't use an existing hole, insure that there is clearance on both &#xA;sides of the firewall before drilling. You can use whatever bit that fits. Although if you have limited space and can't use a prick punch make a dimple so the bit doesn't wander, a step drill might be more stable once you have it started.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have the hole complete, deburr the hole, and hit the edges with a fine sandpaper to remove any remaining rough spots. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To be really thorough, degrease the hole on both sides, and hit both sides with a little primer and paint just to keep the edges from rusting. Should only take two coats and each coat is one quick spritz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the grommet you selected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the wires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the grommet is not the sealing kind and just has a hole, seal it with a silicone sealer. It will be a mess if you ever want to remove this, so if you&#xA;need to get lines in and out easily, select a grommet that won't require any added sealer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This accomplishes the big things on this task:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeps water and gases out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevents rust at the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevents the wires from chaffing which can cause shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="50684" LastEditDate="2019-07-30T11:50:55.007" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T11:50:55.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25407" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:26:11.900" Score="9" ViewCount="2515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Forester with nearly 100k miles, and it just started giving the &quot;emissions&quot; check engine code (P0420, Catalytic Converter Efficiency Below Threshold).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that code is tripped in the system, it responds by flashing 'cruise' and solid light indicating the traction control system is disabled.  These systems &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; disabled - turning at speed is noticeably worse, and cruise certainly doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that?  Is there a reason to disable the traction control system and cruise control when the catalytic converter efficiency is below expected levels?  If it's just a matter of having to do something to show the driver what kind of problem there is, why disable traction control (which is a valuable safety mechanism)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planetsubaru.com/subaru-check-engine-light.htm&quot;&gt;Subaru dealer offers a potential answer&lt;/a&gt;, though it is sufficiently vague to be more like marketing speak:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To work properly, the cruise control system and vehicle dynamics control system require a powertrain operating at peak efficiency.  When the check engine light senses a problem, your Subaru deactivates those other systems to avoid erratic performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, I'd love to know why this is so important - in particular, why vehicle dyanmics control (&quot;traction control&quot; above) is affected here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11431" LastEditorUserId="11431" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T22:33:26.547" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:58:27.720" Title="Why does the Check Engine code for emissions failure disable traction control and cruise?" Tags="|subaru|cel|p0420|traction-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25372" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:28:46.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was able to find a diagram of the 14 Fusion/MKZ and it's for the base system all the up through the SONY in the Titanium and the THX system available in the Lincoln.  Here is the link for anyone who may want it in the future (and hopefully it doesn't die on anyone before they can use it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32767348/2014%20Fusion%20Radio%20wiring.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2014 Fusion Audio Wiring Diagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14660" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T19:28:46.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25430" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:31:47.850" Score="16" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ran across the phrase &quot;heel and toe&quot; shifting from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4971/1743&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've worn through the floor mat in two places trying to become better&#xA;  at heel and toe-ing, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24039/1743&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard much and recently watched a video about performing the&#xA;  heel-and-toe technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it's to allow you to shift without the use of a clutch, but it eludes me how placing a foot on both the brake and gas pedal will cause the synchros to line up. Can someone explain the principle of what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Why does heel and toe shifting line up the synchros?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T16:07:22.603" Title="What mechanical action is heel and toe (clutchless) shifting trying to accomplish?" Tags="|clutch|shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25365" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:35:37.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19608/how-do-variable-length-intake-manifolds-work?rq=1&quot;&gt;variable-length intake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable-length intakes increase the pressure of the air entering the intake manifold thanks to a physical phenomenon called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Helmholtz resonance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also known as &lt;em&gt;dynamic supercharging&lt;/em&gt; since it avoids the use of a mechanical device (compressor/blower) to boost intake air pressure, which means the air enters the cylinders at a higher pressure. Needless to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;▲ Air Pressure → ▲ Bang → ▲ Torque → ▲ Power&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does it increase air pressure?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any air intake geometry has a certain Helmholtz frequency associated with it, just like how blowing over the neck of an open bottle produces a certain note or pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this frequency, the air molecules vibrate more, resulting in higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So why does varying the effective intake geometry help?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine RPM will govern how often the intake valves open and shut. These valves generate pulses that translate to a frequency signature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind varying the effective geometry is to get the Helmholtz frequency of the air intake to sync up with the frequency demanded by the engine over &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a range of RPMs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;This setup alters intake runner length&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Much like how the Le Mans-winning &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Go3Fgd1wgic?t=4m45s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mazda 787B did&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neat thing about this setup is its relative simplicity and robustness. Consider the 787B's trombone-like intake runners. The sliding motion between the two concentric pipes might be good in the short term, but I struggle to see how any mass-produced vehicle would feature this design; the interference between the two parts would require something special to last for an acceptable amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Which is why the setup in this Yamaha is sheer genius&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;; it does away with the interference altogether while maintaining the benefits of the variable-length setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like an invisible, flexible wall. &lt;em&gt;Awesome engineering!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:47:49.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2016-01-27T19:38:39.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if one brake pad wears out, and the other looks new.  When the caliper fails it can sometimes make pressure on only one side.  Also, if the Brake Pads on one SIDE of the car wear out significantly faster than the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T19:38:39.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2016-01-27T20:11:18.067" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heel-Toe shifting and clutchless shifting are 2 different things.  I guess they can be done together....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing both of these techniques have in common is rev matching.  There is the RPM you are at when you come out of a gear, and the RPM you will be at when you go into the next (or previous) gear.  When you rev match, you try and have the engine RPM as close as possible to where it will be after you let the clutch out.  This can help to reduce clutch wear and jerking when you let out the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutchless:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shift gears without touching the clutch.  If you are shifting up, just move the shifter, when the RPM is close enough, you should be able to slide it into the next gear.  When downshifting, you need to rev the engine to match the RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heel-Toe:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The goal is to apply the brakes, and downshift with rev matching.  Place the ball of your foot on the brake pedal, press in the clutch, with the right side of your foot hit the gas, shift, release the clutch.  This is a lot to do all at once and takes a bit of practice.  You might want to try just rev matching first so you get an idea of how much gas you need to give it.  Some cars are easier to heel-toe than others and there are pedals designed for heel-toe shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:11:18.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25368" CreationDate="2016-01-27T20:33:04.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25370/12697&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25370/12697&lt;/a&gt; Covers the physical arrangment of gears in a basic differential. The key to understanding a differential is to understand how these gears behave under different scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearing arrangement means that relative to the crown wheel the two half shafts are constrained to turn by equal and opposite ammounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking from outside the differential this means that the average speed of the two half shafts must be equal to the speed at which the crown wheel turns. So when the engine turns the propshaft at least one of the wheels must turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also see that if the differential is frictionless then the torque delivered to the two wheels must be the same since any difference in torque would cause the gears inside the differential to change speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both the drive wheels have good grip then the basic differential works great at transferring power to the road while allowing the drive wheels to turn at different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same principle can be extended to more wheels, for example a 4 wheel drive vehicle will usually have three differentials, one in the center for differences between front and back and then front and back differentials for differences in speed between left and right of each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one wheel loses grip then the wheel that loses grip will spin freely since the torque delivered to the wheels is the same very little power will be delivered to the wheel(s) that still has grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in performance cars systems are built to detect undesirablly high levels of slip and limit them either through the cars brakes or through extra mechnisms in the differntial. There are also more complex types of differential that have different torque VS speed characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing traction on your 4 wheel drive vehicle when one wheel slips kind of defeats the object of having 4 wheel drive.  Old fasioned off-roaders often used crude mechnisms to lock up the differentials when driving off road. More modern off roaders often have fancier systems similar to those on performance cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:33:04.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2016-01-27T21:08:14.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;stopped dead in its tracks&quot; I assume you mean with the wheels spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this circumstance your choice of gear selection in an automatic is pretty much meaningless.  What you generally want is &lt;strong&gt;less torque&lt;/strong&gt; to avoid wheel slip. In a manual transmission you could use a higher-than-normal gear to some benefit, but such a feature is generally not available in automatics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically one would suspect you need better tires!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14672" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:08:14.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25359" CreationDate="2016-01-27T21:12:12.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Regular valve springs &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24002/what-is-valve-float-and-how-does-it-impact-engines?rq=1&quot;&gt;won't cut the mustard&lt;/a&gt; in F1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That's why pneumatic valve &quot;springs&quot; have no springs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, they use a chamber of pressurized nitrogen to return the valves back into the &quot;closed&quot; position after the cams have run their course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://scarbsf1.com/valves.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this webpage&lt;/a&gt;) shows a comparison of regular valve springs on the left to the pneumatic setup on the right. The pressurized chamber is marked on the third diagram as &quot;121&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkwAS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkwAS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve Spring Comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Operation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Valve Opening&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cams are nothing special; they operate the valve using a bucket-shim or cam-follower design, so the valves would move down just like it would in a road-going passenger vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Valve Closing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In lieu of springs, the valves are pushed into their closed position using nothing but high gas pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webpage also mentions that when F1 engines with pneumatic valvetrains are pulled out of the engine, a remote gas cylinder needs to be connected to prevent the valves from clattering into the pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pressurized reservoir&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reservoir is likely pressurized pre-race and left alone, for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the reservoir is filled with dry nitrogen; if there was a pump that was constantly replenishing lost pressure it would introduce regular air into the system, which is undesirable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;running a pump off the engine is parasitic&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if they can lose weight, F1 teams will most definitely shed it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:12:12.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25393" CreationDate="2016-01-27T21:29:43.283" Score="3" ViewCount="2845" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically if we have two almost identical cars with identical attributes (horse power, engine size, weight, etc.) , but one of them is front wheel drive and the other is rear wheel drive. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which car will accelerate, and ultimately go faster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14674" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T22:04:42.230" Title="Speed difference between rear wheel and front wheel drive" Tags="|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25392" CreationDate="2016-01-27T22:04:42.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So two things to consider, acceleration from stopped, and top end speed. And based on your question, the following are identical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine horsepower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear ratios&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the only difference is one is a transverse mounted front wheel drive, and the other is a rear wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acceleration from a stop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this case I think if the two cars have enough horsepower to break the tires loose so they are slipping rather than driving the car forward (doing a burnout), then the RWD would have some advantage. That's due to the weight transfer mentioned by @DucatiKiller in the above comment allowing more horsepower to be applied to the tires without breaking them loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the top end, it's a question of force applied to drive the car forward vs drag. But, there is one more thing that's different between the two. The transverse mounted FWD has a much shorter drive train than the RWD. Same components ultimately (transmission and a differential) just no long drive shaft. Honestly, the amount of energy lost in heating up the longer drive train when compared to the FWD shorter path is negligible compared to the losses in aerodynamic drag. So if I had to bet, the FWD would technically be faster by an amount to small to be measured or matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T22:04:42.230" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25373" CreationDate="2016-01-27T22:31:27.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Cru1X9hbZ20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video confirmed what I was thinking.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat tip screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Channel locks pliers (or ViceGrips)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your screwdriver and hammer. Place the screwdriver flat along the bottom of the freeze plug. Hit the screwdriver with the hammer until the freeze plug &quot;eye lids&quot; (as the guy called it ... this is where the freeze plug basically &lt;em&gt;tips&lt;/em&gt; over in the freeze plug bore and the top portion will be sticking out). Grab the top part of the freeze plug with the pliers and roll it out of its hole. Here's an image of what the freeze plug looks like when it's in the &quot;eye lid&quot; position and how to grab it with the pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww5K4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww5K4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T22:31:27.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T22:46:09.783" Score="4" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck has the 6.8l V10 Triton engine in it. When I got it there was a lot of oil in the cooling system but no water in the oil.  It ran hot once but didn't do it again. Would it be the head gasket and how should I clean the cooling system out to get all the oil out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:19:34.913" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:19:34.913" Title="1999 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty – Oil in coolant" Tags="|engine|cooling|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25400" CreationDate="2016-01-27T22:58:09.940" Score="7" ViewCount="9166" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the airbag has gone off, you often see a lot of smoke and stuff and there is a load of dust and powder all over the car &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this powder and smoke normally (obviously all air bags are different)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this powder normally dangerous/harmful to humans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any safety precautions I should take if I work with detonated airbags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T20:59:44.407" Title="Is the smoke or powder produced from an airbag detonation dangerous/toxic?" Tags="|safety|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25399" CreationDate="2016-01-27T23:12:54.370" Score="9" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some real challenges disposing of various fluids and consumable objects from working on vehicles at home in my small workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the more common things that I want to be able to dispose of properly include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car Batteries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Automotive Paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil Filters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I clean these parts effectively in such a way that I can minimise my chemical waste?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I dispose of these properly in order to do minimal damage to the environment through land fill and pollution?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T23:37:32.880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T23:42:21.347" Title="How can I dispose of the waste products I get from working on my car more effectively?" Tags="|battery|brake-fluid|carb-cleaner|environment|toxins|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25398" CreationDate="2016-01-27T23:15:43.527" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; You are doing a better job than most, and as a result reducing your chemical footprint further will largely require being more proactive about safe chemical disposal than most people are willing to be. Having said that, there are a few things to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reduce the amount of waste that you generate where possible.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing I can suggest for reducing the amount of waste you need to safely dispose of is simply to reduce the amount of waste that you generate, and plan ahead to minimize the waste - especially from stuff that has a finite shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some good things you can do to improve your mess making methodology &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; (not just including how to clean the cylinder heads, axle bearings, calipers and crankcases that you listed - but also more common thing like your own service, oil change, filters etc. because I think it would be more useful information for more people):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Catch the Excess&lt;/strong&gt; - If you change your own car oil then you probably have something that you use to catch the oil (such as an oil drain pan) as it comes oil of the car. Depending on what you are doing, you might be able to use an old bucket or large container of some sort to catch the chemicals. If you can contain them as you go instead of making a mess to clear up after you've finished working, it will be easier to dispose of them properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old sheet or mat you don't really care about could also work well to avoid quite so many chemicals being deposited straight in to land fill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Disposal&lt;/strong&gt; - You can recycle old oil through local oil distributors and auto-repair stations. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Antifreeze&lt;/strong&gt; - Take antifreeze to a household hazardous waste collection program, or you can check with  local automotive repair shop or garage for advice. If your lucky they might take it off your hands there and then! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car Batteries&lt;/strong&gt; - Recycle car batteries at the stores that sell them. The toxic lead in car batteries can contaminate groundwater. Both the sulfuric acid and the lead plates are reusable with only a modest amount of processing. In most places, when you buy a new battery, the vendor will charge you a small fee that's refunded when you return your old battery. And most of these shops will take in old batteries. The best thing to do would be to call them or visit their website. If not, the city or county you live in should have a place to drop them off, so there's no need to dispose of them illegally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you can properly maintain your charging system, the battery will last longer. This is why trickle chargers are such a good investment because a lot of times they may actually save you money in the long run! They do this by reducing the need for you to replace your car battery at such frequent intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Fluid&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Easy if you have a cat.&lt;/em&gt; Pour brake fluid into a tray of cat litter and leave it in a safe, well-ventilated place. It will evaporate within a few days. Try to place it high if you have a dog as well because it may poison them otherwise. Brake fluid is alcohol-based. It's toxic when ingested. When bleeding brakes, catch the runoff in a jar. Brake fluid from a jar that's been opened for more than a few months probably has absorbed enough water to reduce its boiling point past the point of safety. It is a flammable fluid so &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you must keep it away from any sources of ignition!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Well... unless you are trying to cause a house fire. I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommend that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't think you will need that much brake fluid, you can buy brake fluid in 8-ounce bottles instead of quarts to keep it from going bad so often. All goes towards my main point about only generating waste where &lt;em&gt;absolutely necessary&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/otRL2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/otRL2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cat Litter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drain Your Filter&lt;/strong&gt; - You can leave your oil filter to drain overnight, enabling you to save slightly more which will all add up in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oils and Filters&lt;/strong&gt; - As I mentioned, an oil drain pan is a handy thing to have. They tend to hold about 10 quarts, which is enough for a couple of oil changes. It also has a tight-fitting lid to keep the oil inside until you're ready to deal with it. This means you only have to handle the oil every other oil change, potentially reducing waste. It also has a grate to hold the filter to allow it to drain completely. Let it drain for several hours or overnight (this would be ideal). Commercial shops are required to crush or puncture the used filters to facilitate draining. When it's time, transfer the used oil in to a few clean, dry plastic bottles (empty milk jugs are brilliant for this) and label them as used engine oil. Remember that oil can be purchased in gallon jugs instead of single quarts, making it easy to reuse the jugs. Buy this size if you can find it. They are normally cheaper per unit volume than the smaller ones as well. I know my knowledge of America may be lacking here, but as far as I am aware in most states, any shop that does oil changes is required to take at least a modest quantity of used oil from consumers. The used oil is either recycled back into other petroleum products or burned in special furnaces for heat. &lt;em&gt;Take it to a shop, they will recycle or reuse it better than you can.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do buy your motor oil in quarts, remember to drain the last few drops of oil out of each plastic quart bottle. An hour of draining upside down, multiplied by the residue of four other quarts (one oil change's worth), is often a couple of fingers of oil. Save this for your oil can, for topping off the lawnmower or any other uses you may have for the stuff! Now the empty plastic bottles can be tossed into the recycling with the household plastics, without contaminating the entire recycling infrastructure with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; One thing to note is that if you can keep your air cleaner fresh and well sealed, it will prevent airborne dirt from contaminating your engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coolant&lt;/strong&gt; - Coolant is one thing that you can actually drain in to a pan for use as a weed-killer in your yard, garden and alike. A commercial shop can't dispose of it down the sink or outside drain anymore (by law) and neither should you. Drain the radiator into a pan, with as little spillage as possible. Fill the system with water and run it until the engine warms up enough to open the thermostat, and then for a few minutes longer so as to allow it to mix thoroughly. Drain it, fill it and drain it again. This double flush will purge 99 percent of the old coolant. Now you can refill with the correct amount of fresh coolant and top off with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's all very well and good, but &lt;em&gt;what do you do with the old coolant?&lt;/em&gt; Well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you know that many larger shops have coolant recycling machines? These actually distill the glycol out of the old coolant, and the shop can add an additive package and reuse it as if it were new. The water boils off and all that's left is a few teaspoonfuls of sludge. Call around to find one of these machines, and the shop will probably let you drop off your old coolant. But there's one very important caveat! You must use a clean drain pan and funnel, and clean containers to ferry the coolant. If you use the same drain pan for oil or other solvents and even a few drops of oil wind up in the coolant, it can't be recycled. If you can do this, then using a machine is by far the best way to dispose of your old coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dispose of Paint and Fuel Using Evaporation&lt;/strong&gt; - Most automotive paint used in the aftermarket is solvent-based, either enamel or lacquer. A lot of new cars are painted at the factory with waterborne paint systems. Many rubbish dumps or land fills won't take this type of paint or any of its companion thinners as &lt;em&gt;waste&lt;/em&gt;. If you have a secure, well-ventilated place, one that isn't likely to start a fire or poison children or pets, you can do what you can do for small quantities of leftover or contaminated paint thinner and automotive fuel is just leave the can containing the fluid open in a safe, warm place until it dries completely. Don't try this with coolant unless because it will take way too long, though you could speed up the evaporation process by boiling it. I wouldn't recommend this, especially if you live near a machine that will take it. Larger quantities should go in to the hazardous waste system. The common fuel additive called MTBE is turning into a major issue as a groundwater contaminant. Hopefully, this post will help prevent that from getting too much worse!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt; - Your best option here largely depends on your geographical area. You may need to do your own research as to what is best for you due to this, but here are a few common options to consider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some areas recycle tires by using them as supplementary fuel in cement kilns. The very high temperatures required to drive the water out of limestone and transform it into portland cement also ensure the complete combustion of the rubber and fabric in tires. A side benefit is the molten steel that collects in the bottom of the firebox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not an option for you, most shops that sell tires have a way to dispose of old tires, although they may charge a small fee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some municipalities will take a few tires from a homeowner, either on regular rubbish day or at a special time or place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; One thing a lot of people seem to overlook when it comes to making your tires last longer is alignment. Keep your suspension properly aligned and rotate your tires to reduce tread wear. Some garages might do this for free or for a very reasonable (small) fee if you ask them to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy What You Need&lt;/strong&gt; - Buy only as much paint, solvent and other such items as you need for a project. If you'd done this all along, you wouldn't now need to dispose of a half-empty can for a car you haven't owned for 30 years or more!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the setup of your workshop and how much space you have, you may also find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHnaU8rTB20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt; very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate my initial point, just try to use any harsh chemical solvents and cleaners in moderation - and why buy more than you are going to use anyway, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a non-environmental side note, have you heard of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Butanone (a.k.a.  methyl ethyl ketone)&lt;/a&gt;? Its not very nice to the environment but does a great job cleaning cylinder heads, axle bearings, calipers, crankcases and all that sort of stuff. It is soluble in water and is commonly used as an industrial solvent. It is also used heavily in the aviation industry. Make sure you dispose of it (or anything similar) properly using one of the methods that I have mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see it mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19062/675&quot;&gt;this related post that Zaid pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, so I thought I'd mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun cleaning!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T23:42:21.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25397" CreationDate="2016-01-27T23:41:12.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a couple of sources I read, the substance in the air bags is either cornstarch or talcum powder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/airbag1.htm&quot;&gt;How Stuff Works says:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;powdery substance&lt;/strong&gt; released from the airbag, by the way, is regular cornstarch or talcum powder, which is used by the airbag manufacturers to keep the bags pliable and lubricated while they're in storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The highlight is theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be any danger from either one of these substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T23:41:12.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7084" CreationDate="2016-01-28T00:24:29.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not endorsing anyone, but the Amazon compatibility tool that pops up on their site when you're searching for car parts has never steered me wrong, assuming you can match the exact part number to the one provided by whoever you're buying the parts from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching a Prius specific forum would also be a good place to find specific part numbers and compatibility info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T00:24:29.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25414" CreationDate="2016-01-28T00:25:31.490" Score="6" ViewCount="3311" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes an air filter better or worse than an OEM air filter at removing debris and reducing engine wear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7326" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T05:08:11.400" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T06:24:22.370" Title="Which types of air filters are best at filtering, without causing notable problems?" Tags="|air-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T00:48:36.327" Score="3" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my car the other day and turned the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried starting it back up it wouldn't crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the key out and my dashboard gauges would stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can start it up by the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T08:15:16.467" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T08:15:16.467" Title="My car won't crank" Tags="|ford|ignition|no-crank-no-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T01:41:03.217" Score="9" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Mercedes C240.  Since the weather has been getting cold lately, I have had a problem starting the car. When I try to start the car, it makes no sound. After several attempts, the engine will start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A local mechanic says that the starter is ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T01:21:59.110" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T06:32:48.697" Title="With the weather is getting cold, I have problems starting my 2001 C240 Mercedes" Tags="|starting|mercedes-benz|c240|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T01:58:42.767" Score="1" ViewCount="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001, C240 Mercedes Benz.  Recently i have noticed, when the weather is cold, it is hard to start. I checked the starter of the car and it is working. When i place the electrical key in the ignition, it makes no click or sound. After serval try (7-15) TIME, then it starts. the you help please &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T03:19:35.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:19:35.423" Title="hard to start to start the car when weather is cold" Tags="|starting|mercedes-benz|c240|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-28T13:17:38.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25381" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:40:34.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use this method to pull certain types of dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one method to resolve the dent issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dent Pulling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;glue these plastic ding tabs to the center of the dent.  You can find them by googling &amp;quot;plastic ding tab&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hot%20glue%20gun&amp;amp;oq=hot%20glue%20gun&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2050j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hot glue gun&lt;/a&gt; and hot glue them to your dent.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a dent puller slide hammer.  The tip should screw into the plastic ding pullers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the weight of the slide hammer to the bottom towards the dent and give it a good pull.  When the sliding weight hits the stop at the end of the hammer the transferred energy will pull onto the glued tab and pull the dent out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to repeat the operation a few times to get the way it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scratches&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=buffing%20wheel&amp;amp;oq=buffing%20wheel&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i65j69i59j69i60l2.2004j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=paint%20buffing%20pad&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;buffing pad&lt;/a&gt; to remove very light scratches by applying a very light grit rubbing compound and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_kCZmtZh88&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;using the buffer&lt;/a&gt; to smooth them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=rubbing%20compound&amp;amp;oq=rubbing%20compound&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.4689j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubbing compound&lt;/a&gt; should be available an auto paint store or simply an auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:40:34.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25383" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:58:27.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Because it's dangerous with erroneous data&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually very smart on Subaru's part.  I have to give them credit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have sensors that are faulting you could be giving an ECE false or eroneous information.  The ECU would then take that false data and make adjustments to traction control and engine power.  You could be on a wet or icy surface, step on the gas and spin out of control into a ditch with alligators, witches and zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to prevent that, Subaru deactivates certain systems upon sensor fault to ensure your safety.   This is also a great motivator for the operator of the vehicle to get the car serviced or somehow remediate the issue as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:58:27.720" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25424" CreationDate="2016-01-28T04:17:39.663" Score="6" ViewCount="44426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have some ordinary portable powerbanks I use for my smartphone, I wonder if all of them are able to jump start a car with flat battery as long as I have a correct connector (e.g. clamp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or else, whats the particular requirements for a powerbank to have the ability to jump start a car? Capacity? Must be specially designed for that purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14681" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T07:05:48.567" Title="Can I use any portable powerbank to jump start a car" Tags="|battery|power|jump-start|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:41:37.787" Score="3" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read in various places that one cause of vibrations when shifting from Park to Drive in an ATX is impending torque converter failure.  Another person &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/19050/7132&quot;&gt;asked about the different ways in which a torque converter may fail&lt;/a&gt;, and I was wondering which particular failure mode this symptom would correlate to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:23:54.700" Title="Vibrations and Torque Converter Failure" Tags="|automatic-transmission|torque-converter|failure-modes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29268" CreationDate="2016-01-28T07:56:46.010" Score="4" ViewCount="25228" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the last few months my car developed a not too loud, but annoying noise (squeak) coming from the auxiliary belt area. Sometimes it starts as soon as the car is started, sometimes it seems to do it only at least a few seconds later. I am not sure, but I think it does it more often when it's wet and cold outside (every day is like this recently, so I can't confirm), I remember not having this during dry days. The noise silences when the RPMs rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is related, but I've had some coolant spill near the belt area. I know coolant makes belts squeak, but this happened months ago. I've also heard that coolant evaporates really slowly, but it's still hard to believe that this could be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt is tensioned automatically, as far as I know. So, what could be causing this and similar problems? What can a home mechanic do to fix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T10:07:42.100" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:27:49.180" Title="The causes of a noisy serpentine (auxiliary) belt" Tags="|noise|serpentine-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25403" CreationDate="2016-01-28T08:01:16.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two key observations (no pun intended):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jumping the solenoid starts the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dashboard lights stay on even with the key out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells me that the ignition circuitry is not following the key position in the ignition barrel. This could be due to a bad ignition switch or break in the associated wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T08:01:16.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25402" CreationDate="2016-01-28T08:46:31.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say stick with your OEM air filter if you don't want to think about any possible problem, and you &quot;don't&quot; need performance. Let me explain in details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Performance Air Filters&lt;/strong&gt; (won't be giving brand names):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They increase the air flow to the engine, so the car performance is increased. To increase air flow, they generally use cotton or foam filters, which means more dirt/dust will also come. And for filtration, they use oil to store the dirt/dust, etc. Although they claim that filtration of their systems are better, it is not. I will explain why under OEM Paper Filter Section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantage of cotton filter is, some of them are lifetime guaranteed as they are claimed, so you just wash/clean and reinstall it so in long term you won't be paying more for air filter. Of course don't forget applying filter's oil again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OEM filters and other Paper Filters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to let the air flow, but minimum amount of dirt passed through? Reducing the sizes of the microscopic holes on the filter. OEM/paper filters have a balanced number of holes and proper size of them to ensure the best protection while letting the air flow. That is why paper filters are letting less dirt/dust in them. It is a comparison of cotton and paper with their specific layer properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we are talking about a regular street car, stick with OEM paper filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OEM/Paper Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: reduce engine wear, better filtration &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OEM/Paper Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: regular maintenance, not reusable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just like the sound (of Cold Air Intake), and you really need a performance gain, buy the best brand available to make sure that it will cause the minimal harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cotton/Perf Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: reusable, increase in performance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cotton/Perf Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: worse filtration which means faster engine wear, costly if not planned on long term use because they are reusable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a BMW F30 car and I am currently using stock filter. If I want to increase the performance someday, I would spend a lot of money on advanced filtering techniques to gain the best performance while trying to maintain the protection as much as I can. Worthy or not worthy? It is up your preference. I don't find it to be worthy at the moment since this is not a race car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T08:46:31.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T11:16:47.240" Score="4" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seriously thinking about acquiring a Toyota Corolla from the E20 or 30 series (1970-1973, 1974-1979),but I have some concerns I would like to discuss and clarify if possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car does not have ABS, air-bag, only some have head rest or seat belt. Is there a way to workaround these limitations since they make the car not very safe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the mechanical side, if there is the need to get spare parts, are they easy to find? And what about upgrades? Not engine swap level, but maybe the intake, filters, suspension...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14686" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T22:36:32.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:36:32.590" Title="Toyota Corolla '70-'73" Tags="|toyota|safety|corolla|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25417" CreationDate="2016-01-28T12:18:20.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The car does not have ABS, air-bag, only some have head rest and seatbelt. So, is there a way to workaround these limitations since they make the car not very safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;easiest&lt;/em&gt; thing to do is not buy the car in the first place if you are worried about these items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few aftermarket options for ABS, but most of those do not work very well. Since the vehicle was not equipped with them (with any type of option), retro-fitting them would be very difficult. Most ABS systems today work in conjunction with the PCM to cut engine power and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airbag is about the same, but I don't believe there are &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; aftermarket solutions for this. If the car didn't come with it in some way/shape/form, it is going to be very difficult to get something into your vehicle. I suspect it would be possible, but you'd have to fit the entire airbag system, to include sensors, computer, and most importantly, steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest part of this would be the seats and seat belts ... just go aftermarket with some good Recaro's or other such seats. If money is a concern, you can always pick up a set of high back buckets from a junk yard or from someone with a wrecked vehicle and fit them to your new vehicle. This may take a bit of work, but it is more than doable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat belts are about the same. The only difference is, if the vehicle didn't come with them, you'll probably need to figure out a way to securely bolt them into the vehicle. My suggestion would be to get some seat belts which would work in your situation from a donor car (may take some research), figure out the mounting points, then weld in a plate to the body (at each point) which will act as the base for the belt, drill a hole through the plate, then weld a nut on the back side of the plate which you'll bolt the seat belt to. It would just take some work to make it happen. Another option would be to mount a roll bar within the car and mount a 4- or 5-point harness off of it. Either way will get you what you are seeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the mechanical side, if there is the need to get spare parts, are they easy to find? And what about upgrades? Not engine swap level, but maybe the intake, filters, suspension...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These questions are really relative to where you live in the world and which parts you are talking about. Most wear items (brakes, windshield wipers, etc) are going to be fairly easy to get if you live here in the States. An engine may not be as easy to get. The easiest thing to do here would be to swap in a newer engine and transmission, which would also give you a performance aspect. These cars are rear wheel drive, so finding a small 4-cylinder engine which would work in the vehicle, may be a little tough, considering most engines/trannys are made for front wheel drive setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as upgrades, there are plenty of bolt-ons available, such as cold air intakes (CAI) or modifying the exhaust. You need to face the fact, though, that most of these cars were never meant to be speed demons. They were meant to be budget grocery getters. The only modification which you could do to truly increase performance without changing an engine is to add a turbocharger. While adding this is in no way simple, it would add some go to your little buggy. If you do go this route, you'll want to think about supporting modifications, such as a better carburetor and exhaust to handle the need of getting air in and exhaust out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T12:18:20.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25769" CreationDate="2016-01-28T12:25:02.427" Score="16" ViewCount="4248" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very basic question - what is the difference between torque and horsepower?&#xA;Its all over Google, but I am really confused and can't get any satisfactory answers. I'll tell you my confusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is an indication of acceleration, right? So, to find the pickup of a car from 0-60 mph torque curve should be used. Then why is a horsepower curve used for that. What does horsepower denote?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I say to shift gears (say from 1-2) for best mileage, shift at 10 kmph, while for extracting max power, shift at 22 kmph. Which one should a user use and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really confused at where to use a torque curve and where a power curve? What is their significance? What is their contribution to a car for a user?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T18:41:04.487" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T17:40:42.373" Title="What is the difference between torque and horsepower?" Tags="|power|torque|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:15:09.343" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 4 cylinder Mitsubishi lancer evolution and I CAN get UP TO about 20 mpg on the highways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What determines MPG?   How is it that engines with twice the number of cylinders, and in some cases more power (HP/TQ) get BETTER gas mileage ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T18:30:09.060" Title="Engine MPG / Economy" Tags="|gasoline|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:25:26.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Horsepower is how much power the engine can produce (how much work is done in a given time), wheras torque is the amount of turning force it can make (how much work is done). The two are quite intricately linked, so you can't have one without the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to think of a few physics equations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force = Mass x Acceleration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power = Work Done (Torque) / Time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate one from the other, you can use some substitution with some rotary motion equations: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HP = (2 x pi x Torque x RPM)/33000 = (Torque*RPM)/5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, an engine will be most efficient when it is running at peak torque (hence why industrial diesels run very slowly), and Torque has more of an effect on how quickly the car accelerates, particularly at lower speeds. HP is of more use at higher speeds, where it gives you an indication of how much ability the car has to attain and maintain a higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, compare the engine in a ship, which will generate huge amounts of torque (to move a very heavy thing slowly) at very low RPM (only a few hundred), with that in a racing motorbike, which will generate a lot of power (to move a light thing very quickly) at a high RPM (10-12 thousand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T14:05:19.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T14:05:19.423" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:26:49.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aerodynamic drag&lt;/strong&gt; - The shape of your car has a direct effect on how hard it has to push through the air at a given speed.  The squarer it is the more energy will be required to maintain your speed. The Lancer has large spoilers front and aft which create downforce, plus lots of cooling vents, at the cost of adding drag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire friction&lt;/strong&gt; - Fat tires made with a soft compound (higher grip) will have a higher rolling resistance than skinny tires with a harder compound. Wider tires have more wind resistance too. One is better when you want to be safe and the other is better for economical driving. The Lancer has sticky, wide high-performance tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain friction&lt;/strong&gt; - A 4WD car like the Lancer has a complex drivetrain with lots of rotating mass, gears and couplings. All of these have some rolling resistance/friction, so it's less efficient than a 2WD drivetrain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; - some engines are naturally more efficient than others. The 4G63 engine in the Lancer is an older design with much less regard to efficiency than more recent engines. Power saving items like electric power steering and other ancillaries, low-friction internals etc. were not used in the Evo.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gearing&lt;/strong&gt; - The Lancer has relatively short gearing with the goal of maximizing acceleration. This means the engine runs at relatively high rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle Weight&lt;/strong&gt; - Being a 4WD the car is relatively heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turbocharging&lt;/strong&gt; (especially pertinent to an Evo) - When done for performance this usually ends up with the fuel mixture being run rich to prevent knocking. The engine will generate more power for its displacement but less efficiently. Turbo engines seem to be especially sensitive to the metal content of your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T20:45:51.743" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T20:45:51.743" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-01-28T13:26:49.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:49:39.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;What Determines MPG or miles per gallon?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is pretty wide and has many factors but i will highlight the most important ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy foot:&lt;/strong&gt; A heavy foot is the prime suspect and usually the reason for poor fuel economy and plays a significant if not the primary role in determining the MPG your vehicle returns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air-Conditioner/Electricals:&lt;/strong&gt; Running the Air conditioner will massively tax your MPG especially in older vehicles , also using other electronic gadgets also further contribute to the loss. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wind resistance/aerodynamic drag:&lt;/strong&gt; A boxy shape would obviously have more wind resistance thus reducing MPG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Load:&lt;/strong&gt; The more weight you haul around the more work your engine has to do and thus bad MPG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above 4 are the usual suspects in everyday driving which affect a good share of MPG, there are also other factors such as driving up a hill, driving too fast, engaging 4WD if your car has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why do bigger engines give more MPG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not essentially true at all, bigger engines do not necessarily give out better MPG.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small 1.2 liter engine will almost always dish out much higher MPG figures than say a 5.2 liter v10 , the only situation where the V10 might give higher figures is if both the cars are running at say 110mph, in that scenario the 1.2 engine will be running at its limit and guzzling more fuel than the V10 for which 110mph is nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a common observation missed by many people is that a bigger engine(modern engine) gives out better &quot;RELATIVE&quot; MPG for example the 3.8 V8 gives out almost same MPG as your EVO that is due to them having bigger turbo, lower weight, better transmission, better aerodynamics, so its an illusion that bigger engines give better MPG. Although the truth is that they give Better Relative MPG, Relative to their Engine Sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T13:55:23.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T13:55:23.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25409" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:57:33.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't. A car battery needs a lot of amps at ~12v, and most USB outlets are rated between .5A and 2A at 5v. Car batteries run in the &lt;em&gt;hundreds of amps&lt;/em&gt; at 12v.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water hoses often make a good analogy for electricity. Think of amps as the width of the hose, and volts as the speed that the water is flowing at. Your smartphone powerbank is a hose the size of a straw, with a slight trickle of water. Your car battery needs a sewer main with a heavy flow of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it gets worse: depending on exactly how the charging circuit is designed, you could end up having reverse electrical flow (your car battery will be sending voltage and amps to the powerbank), resulting in a damaged charger or worse! Going back to the sewer analogy... what would happen if you attached the straw to a sewer main, and turned on the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so @JPhi1618 &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ZZKGXEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pointed out this thing.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It's interesting that the reviews are generally positive, but there a few that say either &quot;this didn't work at all&quot; (in cases of a completely dead battery), or &quot;this only worked once or twice&quot;. So, I guess I'm going to slightly change my answer to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Your powerbank almost certainly won't work, unless it was specially designed with jumping a car battery in mind, like the above unit was.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T15:50:15.123" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T15:50:15.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25409" CreationDate="2016-01-28T14:33:18.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need one of 2 things - volts or amps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To jump start the car, you need something with 12-14v and able to crank out 100+ amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can charge your battery with anything with a higher voltage.  There is a video of someone charging his battery with a bunch of AA batteries in series.  You have to let it sit for a bit.  This is only going to work if you battery isn't completely dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T14:33:18.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7084" CreationDate="2016-01-28T14:49:15.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a parts fiche (aka parts diagram) to get the correct part number. However, things like bearings are usually standard metric sizes so there might be a few manufacturers making the right sized bearing and 'Prius front wheelbearing' is probably enough to identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://toyota.epc-data.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://toyota.epc-data.com/&lt;/a&gt; is your friend. The Russian language version of it also has the parts diagrams but may not cover the model you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T14:49:15.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T16:33:02.200" Score="6" ViewCount="4520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. While sitting in idle/at a stop, temperature increases a little to just above 210 and the fan is increasingly loud - sounds like it's going to burst out. It also makes a clicking noise as the speed increases. After shutting off the motor and restarting it seems to be fine until it heats up again while sitting.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14690" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T17:05:09.850" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T17:15:29.840" Title="Fan accelerates increasingly when idle/at a stop" Tags="|overheating|fan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25427" CreationDate="2016-01-28T16:47:07.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a similar problem on our 09 Chevy HHR, it would heat up at long lights and in bad traffic. Sometimes the fan would go into a hi speed mode that was quite loud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest going to a Jiffy Lube or similar type of place to have the cooling system flushed. That solved our problem, now it runs below 200 all the time. You definitly don't want to overheat the engine, that could cause a warped cyl. head or worse, and be very expensive. If the flush doesn't work, you might try replacing the thermostat. The water pump is also suspect, but try the cheaper fixes first. Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastEditorUserId="13711" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T17:15:29.840" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T17:15:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T16:53:41.450" Score="9" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '04 Daewoo Nubira I have been and had new discs and pads all round and now the brakes keep sticking on, I have been advised I now need new calipers all round, how can I tell if its them or that the ABS pump could be the problem as the garage will not say that this will fix my issue . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I can't believe that all the calipers can go at the same time, is there anything I can do to fix this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14691" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T17:08:13.007" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:28:26.307" Title="'04 Daewoo Nubira brakes keep sticking on after disc and pad replacement" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|daewoo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2016-01-28T17:41:38.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;By matching the engine RPM to the revs in the gearbox, the 'synchro rings' that automatically match the gear speeds in the gearbox for you have less to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are clutchless changing all the time these wear out quickly since you are unlikely to match gear speeds well every time. When you din't the synchro rings an gears have to match the speed of the engine and clutch at the same time, normally a function of the clutch when you make a jerky change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn synchro rings need to replaced - an expensive undertaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bits of metal and filings from the gears also result from mismatch and may go on to cause further damage to the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can save a lot of wear and tear and expense on these parts by 'heel and toe'ing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is  one of the reasons formula one cars of the past were completely rebuilt every race (Thanks @ducattikiller) . Components were used near their limits and a bad change or two by a driver often resulted in a breakdown and uncompleted race. Commonplace 20 years ago, less frequent now with new gearbox designs and rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old cars that 'grate' gears when shifting down (it's more noticeable shifting down) have worn out synchro rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to watch for in purchasing second hand car - shift down after pressing the clutch in for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14245" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T14:36:44.137" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T14:36:44.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T19:19:23.310" Score="8" ViewCount="84306" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I put my truck in drive and step on the gas the RPM's go up to 3,000 but my MPH will stay at 10-15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I let go of the gas a little bit I can feel the truck kind of pull and the RPM's will go back to 1000 -2000 and my MPH will start going up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14694" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T20:16:46.223" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T00:18:51.557" Title="My rpms are going high and my mph take a minute to go higher on my GMC Yukon" Tags="|automatic-transmission|gmc|yukon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25436" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:14:25.193" Score="7" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2004 VW Passat B5.5 that I bought used with quite a high mileage so it has therefore had a relatively large amount of usage (at 118k miles). I am curious to know how to tell if the clutch is going bad in older cars because I cannot guarantee that the clutch, a part which would be subject to heavy wear if a previous owner did not know the consequences of riding the clutch, would always have been treated as I try to treat it myself (not riding it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the common signs to look out for to be able to identify a worn out clutch?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will it go suddenly or is it gradually going to get worse?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise this one is probably subjective, but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;roughly how long might you expect one to last?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:20:13.543" Title="How to tell if you have a bad clutch?" Tags="|clutch|car|repair|wear|clutch-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25450" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:23:50.060" Score="5" ViewCount="11573" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, a ram air induction kit performs a similar purpose to a turbo or supercharger in that it is designed to force more air in to the engine, boosting power output of the engine. Fuel consumption is also increased as the air-fuel ratio should not change much if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the difference between ram air induction and a supercharger or turbo?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T06:52:00.307" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T13:30:18.913" Title="What exactly is ram air induction?" Tags="|ram|forced-induction|ram-air-effect|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25444" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:36:45.077" Score="17" ViewCount="55044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25330/14003&quot;&gt;in this question&lt;/a&gt; that running an engine fuel-lean will increase the temperature of ignition, among other things such as causing problems with the catalytic converter. I have no idea how or why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How and why exactly does running fuel lean (or oxygen rich) increase the temperature of ignition?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T03:20:45.740" Title="How exactly does running fuel-lean increase the temperature of ignition?" Tags="|fuel-system|ignition|fuel-injection|temperature|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-01-28T21:59:49.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funny you should ask this Max :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First lets make sure of our definition. Running an engine lean means changing the air / fuel ratio to have more air than is ideal (14.7:1 air to fuel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my reading there are two effects. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; First, the fuel is an atomized liquid which has a cooling effect on the combustion chamber. So less fuel, less cooling effect. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Second, flames burn faster and hotter in the presence of more oxygen. More air relative to fuel than usual, means more oxygen than usual. So the flame burns hotter and faster than it should. Both are going to raise the temperature of the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great question, I was curious about this myself so I started to do some reading up on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T21:01:24.917" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T21:01:24.917" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25432" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:01:36.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are traveling 20-30 mph, shift into high gear (6th IIRC) and push the gas 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down. If you see the RPM rise with no immediate increase in speed, the clutch is worn to the point that it is slipping. The amount of time between slight slippage and total failure is usually not very long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a higher power car, you can expect to replace the clutch between 90-120K miles, my old civic on the other hand still had the original clutch at 180K and was running fine. Searching VW/Passat forums would turn up a more precise answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T22:20:13.543" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:20:13.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:13:48.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically there are a few steps you can go when you want to cram more combustible mass into the combustion chamber. The lowest step is a ram air, or cold air intake. This does not have an active device pumping more air in, it just uses the movement of the car and the pressure wave that it creates to push more air in, which causes the computer to force in more fuel to maintain  the proper air / fuel ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next steps are things like turbochargers and superchargers which are pumps that force more air and fuel into the chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that a ram air doesn't have a pump, just a free flow bigger air cleaner, while turbos and superchargers are pumps..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:13:48.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:18:16.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ram air is simply air that is forced to enter a moving aperture. The 'ram air' at 0mph would effectively be non-existant, and, like aerodynamic drag, would increase exponentially with speed. The faster you are moving, the more air is being forced into your ram air inlet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T06:48:58.123" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T06:48:58.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:20:15.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have ever seen an oxy-acetylene torch being used, you will have noticed that before the oxygen is turned on, the torch has a bright yellow flame. This is the fuel burning in a less than ideal amount of oxygen.  The flame is relatively cool and it produces a lot of soot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the oxygen is turned on, tthe flame turns blue and becomes hot enough to melt steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have also seen when too much oxygen is turned on, the flame goes out with a pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel lean is the same as oxygen rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an engine, the fuel wants to burn efficiently, but not too hot that it starts to melt the pistons, or maybe even violently explode, which will also cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia - &#xA;A stoichiometric mixture unfortunately burns very hot and can damage engine components if the engine is placed under high load at this fuel–air mixture. Due to the high temperatures at this mixture, detonation of the fuel–air mix shortly after maximum cylinder pressure is possible under high load (referred to as knocking or pinging). Detonation can cause serious engine damage as the uncontrolled burning of the fuel air mix can create very high pressures in the cylinder. As a consequence, stoichiometric mixtures are only used under light load conditions. For acceleration and high load conditions, a richer mixture (lower air–fuel ratio) is used to produce cooler combustion products and thereby prevent detonation and overheating of the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air&lt;/a&gt;–fuel_ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I can't get the link to work - copy and paste into browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T23:24:17.840" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T23:24:17.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25431" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:32:07.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the description of the problem, I think the comments are exactly right, this is an issue with your transmission. Now you need to determine if it's just fluid level, or if there is something more serious going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of things you can do, first, follow the instructions in the comment by @DucatiKiller. That will get you into the proper fill level. If the problem does not go away, pull out the transmission dip stick (please tell me you have one) and see if the fluid is a nice bright red. If it's getting dark or if it smells burnt, then you have a bigger problem internal to the transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing you can do, is look at the data from the OBD II port. If you have a scanner, many modern cars include the temperature of the transmission fluid as a data field from the OBD II port. You didn't mention what year your SUV is so I don't know if it will have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another test is to move the gear shift level yourself. Does it shift right away? If it does, then maybe you have bad vacuum lines to your transmission. Basically there's two pieces to this, the transmission needs to know when to shift, and it needs to be able to shift. The vacuum lines are part of how it knows when to shift. If they are cracked, you can get what you are seeing. Sadly the pull might be saying that it's not vacuum lines, but the transmission internals. But, that's not 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What year is your SUV?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the results of getting the fluid level to be correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the operating temperature of your transmission fluid as seen on your OBD II scanner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Btw, if you don't have a scanner, and do have a smart phone, you can buy a $15 or $20 Bluetooth dongle that plugs into your OBD II port and talks to a free app on your cell phone. No need to spend almost $100 on a scanner.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:32:07.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25442" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:35:52.740" Score="6" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How the quoted figures for top speed determined for a car (from 2003)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be specific, my 2003 Opel Agila 1.2i has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/vauxhall/agila/estate-2000/22662/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quoted top speed&lt;/a&gt; of 96mph, but I have exceeded this on several occasions on flat ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it safe to exceed the top speed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I do this on private roads near me, and obviously not public roads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T07:31:04.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:33:05.080" Title="The top speed in the my owner's manual seems to be too low. Is this normal?" Tags="|testing|figures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25441" CreationDate="2016-01-28T22:41:21.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the max speed in the manual is a guide to tell you how fast it's capable of going. It's likely lower than what it's actually capable of since most buyers won't file suit if a maker under rates a car. There is always a little margin in that so I would not be concerned if you drove a bit faster than the max in the manual. I wouldn't make a habit of it, and I would check that your tires are properly inflated, and that they are rated for the speeds your driving, but in general I wouldn't be worried about exceeding the max speed listed in the manual for short periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T22:41:21.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25347" CreationDate="2016-01-28T23:32:37.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted this on Reddit, too and someone suggested just pulling the key out with pliers. I did and now the key goes in and out just fine! Who would've thought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T23:32:37.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:10:39.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a qualitative description of what happens, but let's break it down to a smaller scale. When we talk about &quot;temperature&quot; of something, we are really talking about how fast the molecules are moving around and bouncing off each other. &quot;Temperature&quot; is really &quot;kinetic energy&quot;. And it turns out that there are other types of energy besides moving around in space -- molecules can rotate, they can vibrate, and their electrons can get excited and move around relative to the nucleus. Each of these energies can also be a &quot;temperature&quot;, so you can have translational temperature (what we normally think of), but you can have rotational temperature, vibrational temperature, and electronic temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Molecules exchange energy with one another by colliding into each other. When they do this, they also distribute the energy between them. How often they collide determines how quickly the energy becomes uniform, and this defines how quickly they reach what is called equilibrium. When all of the different temperatures are the same, the state is in equilibrium and we don't need to worry about keeping track of all of the different types of temperature. For most of the processes that would occur in an engine, there is more than enough time to reach equilibrium and so we don't need to worry too much about non-equilibrium effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in chemical reactions, molecules break apart and form new ones. If the new ones have less energy, the difference in energy is released as heat. If the new ones have more energy, the reaction requires adding energy to make it happen. Obviously engines get hot, so the reactions in them release energy and we harness that energy to move the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, molecules break apart. And they break apart when they start vibrating so hard that the bonds between the atoms cannot hold them together anything. The only way to make the molecule vibrate is to have another molecule collide with it, with enough energy and an efficient enough transfer of energy to start the vibrations. And the energy has to be high enough that the vibration makes the molecules fall apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By changing the amount of fuel in the mixture, you are changing the types of collisions that can occur. And it's not exactly straight forward, but some molecules are better at exchanging energy with others. To make the fuel molecule fall apart, they need to collide with other fuel molecules with some energy of with other oxygen molecules with more energy. If you add more than the usual amount of oxygen (run lean), you also need to make that oxygen hotter so the molecules have more energy when they collide and can make the fuel vibrate hard enough to fall apart. Conversely, if you run fuel-rich, you have more fuel molecules that can collide with one another and fall apart, but fewer oxygen molecules for them to combine with and give off heat. This (and some other effects) makes the final flame temperature lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on some extended conversation on the question, let's put this all back into the context of an engine. For a direct-injection gas engine, the air is sucked into the cylinder, the piston compresses it, and then fuel is sprayed into the cylinder. A spark plug then triggers a spark in the chamber. This deposition of electrons gets the fuel-air mixture molecules all excited -- it actually ionizes the air (strips off electrons from the molecules) and this all adds a bunch of energy to the molecules. This energy is the initial energy required to start the combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a fuel-lean condition, I said it takes more energy to start the reaction and I phrased it in terms of a higher ignition temperature. The ignition temperature comes from that spark plug (for a cold engine -- hot engines will also contribute heat from the cylinders themselves). For normal operating conditions, spark plugs provide more than enough energy to ignite. As the operating condition gets leaner, the spark plug provides the same amount of energy -- but it is still enough energy to ignite. Eventually, for lean enough conditions, it won't be enough energy. This is a &lt;strong&gt;lean misfire&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines work differently. For sake of argument, let's stick with a direct injection again. The cylinder fills with air, the piston compresses it, and the fuel is injected. There is no spark to initiate the reaction though. Diesel engines rely solely on creating high enough pressures to ignite the mixture. High pressure means high density and that means more collisions to spread the energy around (molecules don't need to go as far to hit one another). At any rate, the same ideas apply. In lean conditions, it would require a higher pressure to ignite. At ideal conditions, the engine compresses more than is exactly required, so when it runs fuel-lean, it still has enough compression to ignite. If you go so lean that the compression isn't high enough anymore, you will again get a &lt;strong&gt;lean misfire&lt;/strong&gt;. Glow plugs can help all this by heating the cylinders and helping to add heat to the mixture and get the reactions going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either engine, once they have been running for awhile, the cylinder walls heat up and it requires less input (from sparks or from compression) to make the reaction occur. But for cold engines, it needs that initial energy deposition to get the reactions moving along. Many ECU's are set to burn fuel-rich when the engine is just starting because it is easier to ignite; as they heat up, the mixture becomes more lean and reduces emissions and fuel consumption. You may be familiar with manual chokes on things like lawn mowers -- the choke is what changes the fuel-air mixture and to get the motor started, you have to set the choke to be fuel-rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested, based on the discussion we had in the various comment threads, I went ahead and gave a concrete example of how/why temperature can increase when the flame is fuel-lean. The conversation in chat is &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/340/conversation/lean-combustion-clarification&quot;&gt;bookmarked here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14645" LastEditorUserId="14645" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T13:35:01.433" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:35:01.433" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:03:39.567" Score="5" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys ive got one question i was looking over this car i was going to buy and there was engine oil in the radiator i ask the guys why it was in there he said he didnt have enough coolant to fill it so he used engine oil so he topped up the radiator and topped overfill bottle with that do any damage the the motor long term or short term&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking it to this can and really need to know if there will be any major damage to anything if hes put oil in the radiator or even if theres a leak will there be any damage and what will i need to do to fix it thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14569" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T01:49:28.950" Title="Motor and radiator problem will there be and damage to motor or anything" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-29T09:56:48.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25472" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:22:49.790" Score="8" ViewCount="4679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Corolla CE with manual transmission. About one month ago the car would not start, and the battery was discharged to about 8.5V. Car had been not running for a couple of days but nothing was left on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the battery was under warranty, I replaced it. Charging system is OK (about 14V, and this problem only happens when the car sits for a couple of days).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I noticed was that the radio stayed on when the ignition was off (though the clock display did go out), but maybe it is not related. Anyway I turned off the radio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For about 2 weeks all was well, every day or two I checked the battery voltage and it was OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a couple of days ago it was discharged again (about 8.5V). So first I charged the battery and the voltage has remained about 12.7V with nothing connected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like some intermittent electrical drain is happening. A couple of times when I connect an ammeter in line with the battery (with everything off), the current measures about .2 amp. But a couple of other times .7 amp. However I don't know if this kind of checking has any validity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am looking for some way to find out what is happening (since it is intermittent), or if there are any known problems like this. I might pull the audio system fuse in case it is involved (it is a stock system) but that is all I figured so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if checking the current at the battery is valid, can I use this to try to find the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T01:52:16.877" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:49:10.190" Title="2005 Toyota Corolla intermittant battery drain when not running" Tags="|electrical|toyota|troubleshooting|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25445" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:49:28.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NO GO&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to tell if he is being honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil in a radiator is a sign of a blown head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blow head gasket requires the following to repair if the head is ok and not warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove all fuel injection or carburation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove intake manifold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove exhaust and manifold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove valve cover and cam sprockets (if it's an overhead cam)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove various sensors or connecting wires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;remove head&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then do the work to verify the head is good and clean everything up.  Get the head rebuilt or do it yourself.  Hope the head isn't trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay away from it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't go into a morality speech of the seller other than, run from him and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T01:49:28.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18020" CreationDate="2016-01-29T01:52:09.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As posted in the comments, the issue was resolved after replacing the worn out timing belt.&lt;br&gt; The camshafts were centered and adjustments on the timing was also done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slight vibrations maybe a good indicator if your timing belt is due for replacement.&lt;br&gt; This will prevent you from expending a lot of money due to broken timing belt resulting to mis-aligned cam's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T01:52:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2016-01-29T02:08:07.980" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ram Air is actually a type of engine/intake which Pontiac used in the late 60's for their GTO's. Pontiac called it a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_V8_engine#Ram_Air&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ram Air&lt;/a&gt;. These were a series of engines (basically named I, II, III, IV, &amp;amp; V). The most recognizable part of the combination was the hood scoops. You can see them in the following images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9k8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9k8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Oofp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Oofp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the setup actually looked like &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; the hood: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsIsk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsIsk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you can tell or not, but in the image there are two vacuum operated doors which let air in. These would open when vacuum from the engine was right, letting cold air directly in through the air filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest part of the Ram Air inlets is it would be open at speed. The thinking of this was that not only would fresh air from on top of the hood be passed to the engine, but while going at speed, there would be a pressurized effect, giving a boost of power to the engine. How effective this actually was is anybody's business. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea was later reintroduced on the 90's Pontiacs, such as on the Trans Am and Grand Am models. There were no vacuum actuated flappers on these vehicles, though, so the (so called) effect would happen at any speed and any throttle level. It wasn't a special engine, but only the hood and intake. I believe Pontiac rated these vehicles something like 5-15 horsepower over the stock versions. I'm sure this was only seen at peak horsepower levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of a newer Ram Air setup which is under the hood of a Grand Am:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yzsJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yzsJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major difference between these vehicles and super/turbocharging is with the Ram Air, you have to call on physics to do anything for you. It carves the air out from in front of the car. The hood and front end of the car create a small pressure wave in front of it (the base of the windshield is another place for higher pressure air ... which is why Chevrolet created the Cowl Induction hood for the Chevelle) which creates a little bit of positive pressure inside the air intake. This is the &lt;em&gt;Ram Air&lt;/em&gt; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A turbo/supercharger (forced induction or FI) uses energy derived from exhaust (turbo) or from the crankshaft directly to provide a positive pressure imbalance inside of the intake. This provides more air so there can be more fuel, which makes for more power. The difference in power increase between the Ram Air and the FI setups is about 10:1 (or greater) in favor of FI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:08:07.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25447" CreationDate="2016-01-29T04:10:57.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking the Key Off amperage draw is the standard test for this symptom. An ammeter that is very accurate in the Milliamp range is needed. Low quality meters are readily available and can quickly lead one to a false conclusion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test: Remove ignition key, wrap in aluminum foil if Smart Key, Wait at least five minutes, newer smarter cars will need longer to fully turn off all the computers. Some up to 1/2 hour. Note that some vehicles turn back on after 5 hours to test the evaporative system for leaks.&#xA;Most vehicles draw a small amount of power when off. Almost all will draw less than 50 Milliamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools vary from inline types to inductive clamp over the wire models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T04:10:57.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25433" CreationDate="2016-01-29T05:01:02.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ram air induction does not exist in normal vehicles for all intents and purposes. Ram air induction is the forced induction of flow due to air flow being compressed (pressurized) into an inlet from the conversion of kinetic energy (velocity). Air is considered incompressible below speeds of about Mach 0.3 or 230 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A supercharger and turbocharger both perform the same function--to force air into the cylinder above ambient air pressure. More air + more fuel = more power. The difference is that the supercharger is mechanically driven, while the turbocharger harnesses waste energy of the exhaust stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what your intuition might indicate, having a forward facing air inlet to &quot;scoop&quot; air into the engine does not produce any significant pressurization of the inlet air below Mach 0.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the difference is that one is very effective at increasing power (superchargers/turbochargers) and the other is more effective at draining your wallet (aka snake oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUqER.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUqER.png&quot; alt=&quot;Error by Velocity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the picture above, you can see that at Mach 0.3 if you measured the air pressure due to ram air, you would be within 7% of standard air pressure. At Mach 0.1, your error looks to be &amp;lt;1%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/433lx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/433lx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PSI Gain by Velocity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this picture, you see at 200 mph you gain 0.7 psi via ram air effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, a low-boost supercharger will produce 7 psi of boost. And a high-boost turbo could produce upwards of 25 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14698" LastEditorUserId="14698" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T05:16:08.630" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T05:16:08.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25402" CreationDate="2016-01-29T06:24:22.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I'm allowed to give links as answers, but this is the best I've been able to find... although it's a decade old. Anyone have a newer test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k-n-myth-why-oem-is-better-t180100.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k-n-myth-why-oem-is-better-t180100.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7326" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T06:24:22.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T08:23:28.793" Score="8" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced spark plugs but am still getting misfire on cylinder 3 and 4. Sometimes it runs ok. and then other times theres no power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14682" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T08:23:28.793" Title="Mercedes ML350 M272 random misfire on cylinder 3 and 4" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T12:48:27.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T08:54:57.207" Score="4" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;My battery often needs a quick charge – 3 min or so – in the morning, then the car starts all day. Today, the light went on after the quick charge and would not go off after 2 blocks so I returned home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14703" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T18:01:12.470" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T18:01:12.470" Title="Malfunction indicator light after a charge to low battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-01-29T09:19:46.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answers are incorrect. Because the question assumption is incorrect. First we have to decide hotter compared to what? and also we need to know this is a fact, is it really hotter or is it a myth? in addition the amount of the fuel/oxygen ratio is important, is this condition always true for all lean ratios? Perhaps the correct question is why the &quot;slightly&quot; lean mixture is hotter than &quot;slightly&quot; rich mixture perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermal energy output from fuel is simply related to how much of it you burn. You burn less, less heat is generated. You burn more, more heat is generated. As simple as that. Here what creates the heat is the energy stored in the fuel (for our example other factors such as pressures, frictions etc. are not important). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are comparing a rich mixture with lean mixture, of course the lean mixture will have higher energy output because you would convert all the fuel into energy. (more burned fuel = more heat) But it still depends on your mixture ratios, because if you have almost no fuel in your mixture, obviously then it wont generate so much energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are comparing an ideal mixture with lean mixture, then I think it should be even cooler (less thermal energy generated from combustion) since you would be getting less fuel and more oxygen into the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14704" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T09:19:46.413" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T09:59:39.070" Score="4" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my Vespa P150 x I want to know technically regarding to  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Plug&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; What should be the color of a healthy plug spark? Mine is a blue red like color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Contact Points&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  How can I check that the points of scooter are bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Condenser&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; A Condenser is also an important part, so how may I check that it is good or bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please guide me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T13:33:59.517" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T20:45:47.920" Title="Vespa Plug,Contact Point and Condenser" Tags="|sparkplugs|scooter|points|condenser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T10:35:21.317" Score="10" ViewCount="64565" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem is a small one and it can only occur with manual cars, but I have been curious to find out more about it for a while now. Sometimes, when the car is attempting to pull away from a standstill (at traffic lights, for example) the driver will put the clutch down and try to put it in to first gear. They either have to exert more force than most would feel comfortable in doing to force it in to first gear or try again and it will usually go in the second time. A few cars that I have driven or been a passenger in in the past have had this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also happened with the reverse gear (as well as first) on my old car, but I would need to lift the clutch just a little from the pedal down position in order to move the gear stick fully in to the reverse gear. To get it in to first I just had to use a bit more force than the manufacturer intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the problem occurs primarily with first gear because that is the one that is used the most. I have only noticed this issue on older cars (10+ years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the gearbox doing mechanically when the car won't go in to first with the clutch pedal down?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it going to lead to a damaged gearbox or have any other bad knock-on effects?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T07:55:09.087" Title="What does it mean to have a stiff first gear?" Tags="|transmission|car|gears|old-cars|gear-stick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25223" CreationDate="2016-01-29T12:09:30.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question I could do myself would be if that oil on radiator could'nt be the consequence of a damaged head gasket which pours oil from lubrication system to the cooling one (then, the guys could have improvised along the way any bad or worse excuse). Of course, I've purchased 4 2nd hand cars, and I would have rejected any candidate which had oid in the radiator: that means a both deffective lubrication and cooling systems. I will aquire a such car the day I feel I am too much happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14596" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T12:09:30.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8920" CreationDate="2016-01-29T12:59:02.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, easy job third row seats, four torx bolts per seat through the slides.  Tape over the holes so the screws don't bottom out  on the structure below. Lots more useable space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14706" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T12:59:02.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25441" CreationDate="2016-01-29T13:33:05.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The max speed a vehicle is rated for usually depends on the speed rating of the tires equipped by the OEM.  The vehicle can move faster, but the tires are not rated to go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:33:05.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25458" CreationDate="2016-01-29T13:40:37.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the op's question again, following being prompted to by the comment below from @Gargravarr, I realised I needed to update this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the real reason that selecting 1st can be difficult while the car is stationary is due to the way in which the locker ring in the syncromesh operates.  The locker ring is designed to stop a gear being selected until speed of the gears have been fully synchronised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The selector ring is normally rotating at a speed relative to the vehicle speed, which is due to the selector ring being connected to the output shaft.  When the selector ring pushes against the locker ring, the locker ring is able to start rotating and position itself correctly to mesh with the selector ring.  However, when selecting first gear while stationary, the selector ring will not be turning and so if the teeth of the selector ring and the blocker ring do not align sufficiently to allow them to mesh, resistance will be felt in the gear selector.  Pushing harder on the selector will force the blocker ring to move a little and aid alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens, allowing the car to move slightly will usually aid alignment and allow the gear to select easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this resistance to selecting first gear is nothing to do with a worn synchromesh, but is more than likely to do with the design of the locker ring and selector ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Bqs-oHBBQk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to a video that describes how the locker ring operates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---- Original answer below ----&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st and Reverse often don't have syncro clutches on the gears. A lack of these makes it difficult to select the gears while the car is moving. However they shouldn't make a difference when the car is stationary. There again, you probably never select the other gears while the car is stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional by @Paulster2 - If the friction disk is spinning right after clutch release, it might make it harder to get it 1st/Reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T07:55:09.087" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T07:55:09.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25457" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:20:42.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plug&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/649/4152&quot;&gt;an answer concerning spark plugs&lt;/a&gt;. If you cannot place your's against the chart, please post a picture and I can help you further. Make sure the spark plug is gapped correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Points&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; As @DucatiKiller pointed out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25362/4152&quot;&gt;this other question of yours&lt;/a&gt;, check the color of the spark coming from your spark plug when not installed in the engine. If the spark is a dull orange, you probably need to take a look at the points. If the spark is white or blue, they are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing a spark, but &lt;em&gt;just don't know&lt;/em&gt;, you can clean the points by using a bit of emory paper. Make sure that the engine is rotated so the points are fully closed. Open the points with your fingers and place the emory paper between the points. Allow the points to close, then gently rub the emory paper against the points. If you fold the emory paper in half, you'll have surface on both sides and can clean both sides of the contacts at once. After 3 to 4 strokes of the emory paper, your points should be clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timing/points.timing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these extensive directions&lt;/a&gt; for setting the timing and gapping the points on your Vespa. (Shamelessly copying the content here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing a points bike is pretty easy but you'll need a few specialized tools to do the job right. Some of these can be made pretty easily and inexpensively and will save you from a headache later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TDC tool (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timing/timing.tools.html#tdctool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;click here to see how to build one&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plug wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degree disk (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timing/timing.disc.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;click here to download a .pdf of one&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A buzzer or light circuit (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timing/timing.tools.html#conttester&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;click here to see how to build one&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A flathead screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feeler gauges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A magnet or some very sticky tape (to hold the degree disk on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little piece of wire or coat hanger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the pictures in this section are off a various Vespas but the idea should translate into any points Vespa or Lambretta engine. There are three basic things that need to occur to set the timing correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the point at which the spark pug fires - referred to as degrees before top dead center (BTDC).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the points gap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the timing either statically or dynamically and adjust the stator plate placement is necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll start with setting the firing point which is figured out by first locating the point at which the piston has reached the absolute top of its stroke. This can be done with a degree disk or a dial gauge. This method shows the degree disk which involves less specialized tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtY3i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtY3i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to remove the right hand side engine cowl to gain access to the motor. Remove the 4 flathead screws that hold the sheet metal flywheel cover to the main casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iu4aM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iu4aM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the flywheel cover is gone, remove the plastic cap over the central nut. I always use a magnet to hold the degree disk in place, and since aluminum isn't magnetic, I use one on to the end of the crank shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKJE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKJE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the degree disk in place you can now start the process to find top dead center (TDC). You may need to cut some access holes in the degree disk face so that you can reach the inspection hole in the flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkpXD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkpXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you need to make a pointer. An easy way to do this is cut about a 2-3&amp;quot; length of wire or an old coat hanger and bend it a hoop in one end. Bend the other end so that when it is mounted to the casing with a fan cowl screw, it will point accurately to the timing disk (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tK29r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tK29r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the spark plug and fit the TDC tool carefully. Fully torque it down as if it were the actual spark plug. Depending on where your piston is in the bore, the flywheel may move slightly as you install the tool. The idea behind this tool is that as you rotate the flywheel by hand, the piston will not be able to reach TDC because of the bolt in the tool. Once it hits, if you back it off until it hits again you will know the total amount of degrees between the two points which can give you TDC with a simple calculation. See the next image for a better visual guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VDhDn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VDhDn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the TDC tool is in place turn the flywheel by hand clockwise until it stops against the tool. This is the upper &amp;quot;stop&amp;quot; in the picture above. Remove and replace the timing disk so that the pointer is at zero degrees when the piston is against this stop. From this point on if the degree disk slips or moves in any way you will have to start over, It is very important that this procedure starts from zero when the piston is at the stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now slowly turn the flywheel anti-clockwise until it stops again on the lower &amp;quot;stop&amp;quot; in the picture above. Make a note of how many degrees the flywheel has turned between the two stops (represented by the white arc above). Take this number and subtract it from 360 which is the full rotation of the flywheel. This will give you the degrees that the flywheel cannot travel because of the TDC tool (represented with the green arc above). Divide this amount by two (represented by the yellow line above) and the result is the amount of degrees clockwise past the zero on the degree disk to reach TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the TDC tool and turn your flywheel until the zero mark and your wire pointer line up. Now turn the flywheel clockwise by the result of your calculations. When it reaches this point you can do one of the following to mark TDC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very carefully either relocate the pointer or remove and replace the disk so without moving the flywheel so that TDC reads as zero on the degree disk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scribe or mark a line on the casing and a similar line that perfectly lines up on the flywheel. This is more handy than the option above as the scribed lines will remain for the next time you do a rebuild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know TDC you can determine where the bike should fire. All timing points are given by degrees before top dead center or BTDC. Have a look at the model pages (Lambretta)(Vespa) and determine how many degrees BTDC is required for your scooter make and model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the correct timing degrees BTDC (we'll use 18 BTDC for an example), line up your marks so that the motor is at top dead center and place the timing disk and pointer so that they read 0 degrees. All Vespa and all but one Lambretta motors rotate clockwise when looking at the flywheel, so you'll need to rotate the flywheel 18 degrees counterclockwise and this will be the point where the spark should fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSitS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSitS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make another mark on the casing, so that the new mark aligns with the mark you previously scribed on the flywheel. If you can it is also handy to mark &amp;quot;18&amp;quot; on the second mark as timing might need to be changed if you make aftermarket modifications and this way you'll always know that the mark is only for a timing of 18 BTDC. Since the piston and flywheel are always statically connected these lines will always be accurate for when the motor needs to fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setting the points gap:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8WwgR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8WwgR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap is the distance between the faces of the points as they open. If the gap is too large or too small the motor will run badly. The correct gap for most Vespas is 0.30mm to 0.50mm and can only be measured with the flywheel in place. Check the model listings just in case your specific model is different. To start, pull out the rubber bung in the flywheel so that you can see the stator plate. Rotate it around until you see the points as shown in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3kH8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3kH8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the inspection hole you'll see the points (marked with the red arrow above). Look at the points as you move the flywheel back and forth and you will see that they open just slightly. There is also a large screw (blue arrow) which is used to release the points for adjusting. On some models there is either a place where you can use a screwdriver to carefully lever the points apart or an eccentric small screw head which will change the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMYW4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMYW4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a feeler gauge select a 0.35mm thickness and rotate the flywheel. You'll start to see the points open as the window in the flywheel passes over them. At their widest point apart, stick the feeler gauge directly in between them and then loosen the large screw (blue arrow in previous picture) until you feel the points grab the feeler gauge. Then tighten up the large screw and remove the gauge. The points should stay where they are, separated by exactly the width of the feeler gauge. If for any reason this doesn't work or the points have a solid grip on the feeler gauge, you can slide a small screwdriver in between the two notches on the far edge of the points (where they overhang the stator edge) and lever them carefully apart until the feeler gauge is just slightly released. The gap is now set and you can check the timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Checking the timing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary to check the timing of the motor because the points must separate exactly at the BTDC point or the engine will run badly. To do this there are two methods: Statically with use of a small testing circuit or dynamically with a strobe light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Method:&lt;/strong&gt; For years many people used very thin tobacco rolling paper to check when the points opened. The idea is you get the points open and place the paper between them through the inspection hole. Then let them close and put some tension on the paper by pulling it. Slowly rotate the flywheel and the paper will slip out when the points separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can work if it's your only option but a far more accurate way is to make a small testing circuit which will show you when the points open. You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 6V 25W bulb (a headlight bulb off older Vespas is good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A battery holder from Radio Shack that can hold 4 AA batteries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two small alligator clips (insulated are best).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A length of insulated wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3soj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3soj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a small open circuit following the diagram above (or click it for a PDF). Once you have it made up disconnect the one red wire on the HT coil (located outside the engine by the rear shock) and the other contact to the engine casing. If the HT coil is not connected due to a rebuild you can go directly off the red wire coming from the stator. Be warned that there is the possibility of very minor 6V shocks and sparking from doing this - basically it is less voltage than putting a 9V on your tongue and isn't really anything to worry about but it may be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYK5W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYK5W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the flywheel to the TDC line you made and then turn it counter-clockwise until you see the light bulb get brighter (or is it more dim - I can't remember right now). Either way the light bulb will change brightness at the exact moment the points open. If this matches your scribed mark for 18 BTDC then you are done. If it happens before you reach your mark (i.e. closer to TDC) then you will need to remove the flywheel and rotate the stator slightly counter-clockwise. If it happens after your mark then you will need to remove the flywheel and rotate the stator slightly clockwise. Unfortunately to check the timing each time you will need to refit the flywheel until you get it on the mark, however if you are just refitting for testing purposes only the nut can be finger tight. Just remember to torque it down properly before firing up the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dynamically:&lt;/strong&gt; The second way to check the timing is get it close by installing the stator aligned with the casing mark and then fire up the motor and check your flywheel/casing marks with a strobe light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0BoG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0BoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strobe will flash every time the spark fires and will show you exactly where the motor is sparking in relation to your marks. The strobe is such a quick burst of light the flywheel will look as if it is not moving and you can easily see if your flywheel is aligning with your casing mark. If it is off then remove the flywheel and move the stator as explained in the static section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condenser&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; These are relatively cheap. These usually get replaced when you replace the points. If you have any reason to consider these being bad, &lt;em&gt;just replace them&lt;/em&gt;. The points will usually go bad before the condenser. All the condenser does is store energy until the field is broke by the points, the it dumps its load out to the spark plug. A very simple but effective device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T14:20:42.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25466" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:46:31.410" Score="8" ViewCount="13988" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car would not start yesterday.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ignition was turned, all that could be heard was a continuous clicking which then slowed after a while, when I left the key in for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I have changed the battery and the car now starts fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have caused any damage to the starter solenoid by holding the key in place for 1 minute while attempting to start the car.  I tried few times for about 5-10 clicks only, but one time I probably tried for longer than I should and held the key in the ignition for about 1 minute or so, while the solenoid clicked away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to someone who said that the car would be fine, however if anyone could clarify this It would put my mind at rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle info: Vauxhall Astra, (SRI) '07 plate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14708" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T17:23:58.410" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:23:58.410" Title="Starter solenoid clicking continuously" Tags="|battery|starting|starter|vauxhall|astra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17990" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:49:40.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time it may be easy to check it out yourself. There are plenty of free online car databases. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://carspecs360.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carspecs360.com&lt;/a&gt; which gives you all the desired information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14709" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T14:49:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25464" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:55:49.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car will be fine, that's just the noise the starter motor/solenoid makes when the battery is flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solenoid switches on the motor and engages the motor's gear with the flywheel, allowing it to turn the engine. There is a strong spring which pushes the solenoid back to its resting position after use. When the battery is very low it can't supply enough power to the solenoid to overcome the spring and turn the motor at the same time. What you are hearing is the solenoid moving a bit (until it switches power to the motor) then being pushed back by the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows how it works, the solenoid is the top part, the motor is underneath it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mnzfe.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mnzfe.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T15:14:00.340" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:14:00.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2016-01-29T16:32:23.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An MOT in the UK will test &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/449392/mot-inspection-checklist-vt29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these things&lt;/a&gt;. For more details on how they test your car, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/car-parts-checked-at-an-mot/car-parts-checked-at-an-mot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;. Your car will either get a pass or a fail for each one. If get a fail in any one of the categories, that will constitute a fail overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; required to do any work on the car, not even adjust the tire pressure or replace a bulb. Some might be kind to you and do it (to keep you as a customer) and others may not, but that is up to the discretion of each MOT and service place independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is most places, including Halfords I believe, will sell an MOT Service. This allows you to renew your MOT (i.e. no fail in most cases), as well as service your car without duplicating many of the tasks that they would have to do twice if you paid for a service and then an MOT separately. This allows them to be able to pass the savings on to you - the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T17:00:43.863" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:00:43.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T16:44:53.483" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this ticking sound somes when I press on the brake while is not moving and on Parking but the Engine is on.I changed the rear rotors, pads , and the right rear right caliper, but the sound is still there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could that be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14711" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T19:10:39.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:29:33.407" Title="Ticking sound when stepping on Brake" Tags="|brakes|troubleshooting|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T21:37:46.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25470" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:00:12.523" Score="3" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that all headlights do dim briefly when you turn the engine on and that this is normal. I also believe that the headlights will dim more if the car battery is in poor condition. I hope that this question is not too physics related for this Q&amp;amp;A site because I think that electrical circuits may form part of the answer in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand very well how the electrical circuit works in a car to mean that this brief headlight dimming is actually necessary (as all cars that I know of do it by design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why do car headlights dim briefly when you turn the engine on?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can you determine the quality of your car battery by observing this headlight dimming phenomenon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. how do you know what a good car battery would look like for reference)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T00:27:09.593" Title="How can you use the headlights to tell the quality of your battery?" Tags="|electrical|battery|car|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25469" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:09:48.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of times, I use a &quot;water in a pipe&quot; analogy when I think about electricity. In order to explain why the lights dim when you start the car, consider the following: your car, on average, uses a reasonable amount of electricity. This electricity can be considered equivalent to water flowing through a pipe, let's say a 2-inch pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn your headlights on/off, or your radio, or any other accessory, it is as if there is a branch on the 2-inch pipe, let's say with 3/4-inch pipe, that has just been turned on. Like when you turn your faucet on/off. This doesn't really affect the flow in the 2-inch pipe that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you start your car, the starter motor requires a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of electricity. It is as if you had a 4-inch pipe branched off your 2-inch main and turned it on for a few seconds. In other words, if you have your faucet running then flush 3 or 4 toilets all at once. Because you are placing such a high demand on your supply, the supply to all branches diminished briefly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I do not believe that there is a very consistent, accurate way to determine the quality of your battery by observing the lights dimming. The measurement is too subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:09:48.373" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25363" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:23:15.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of research has taught me that &lt;code&gt;Brake Mean Effective Pressure&lt;/code&gt; is the ratio of an engines Torque to it's displacement, whereas the &lt;code&gt;Brake Specific Fuel Consumption&lt;/code&gt; is the ratio of fuel consumption to the power produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, &lt;code&gt;BMEP&lt;/code&gt; will tell you how much power you can get from your engine at a given designed displacement, whereas &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt; will tell you how efficient that engine will be at a given power output. The two measurements are related but compete with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a design environment, especially with modern CAFE standards, I would start with the question of &quot;What is my target fuel efficiency?&quot;. I would then ask myself &quot;What is the minimum acceptable average power that my user expects in order to have a reasonable driving experience?&quot;. The answers to these question will give me a rough target for &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt;. Do note, though, that &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt; will change at different power output - I can design for a specific &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt; at a typical &quot;standard&quot; highway speed, or I can design for a &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt; at a typical 0-60 acceleration rate, or (more likely) try to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have my target &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt;, I can use that to help me design my engine. I'll use other factors (input from management, target demographic, etc) to determine whether I want a four-cylinder, v-6, v-8 etc. Then, I can play with various displacements and use the &lt;code&gt;BMEP&lt;/code&gt; to figure out whether or not the theoretical engine will produce enough torque to meet my power requirements. I'll want to keep the &lt;code&gt;BMEP&lt;/code&gt; high enough to produce enough torque so that the user's driving experience is not muted, but also low enough such that I do not miss the mark on my &lt;code&gt;BSFC&lt;/code&gt; target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to stress that this is a pretty simple overview, but hopefully it does give a bit of insight into how a typical design process may go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:23:15.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25447" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:31:49.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen where mis-adjusted trunk light switches cause the light to stay on with the trunk closed and then the battery drains.  If you have fold-down rear seats this is easy to check.  Otherwise you may need to enlist a small fearless helper or a video camera.  Or just remove the bulb and see if the problem goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14672" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:31:49.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25447" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:49:10.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The classic way to test this is to use the ammeter as you already have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect ammeter and get a base reading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect ammeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the fuse box and remove a fuse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a reading with the ammeter again to see if there was a drop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat 2-4 until you find what is drawing the power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radio staying on is a red flag for me.  Is this the stock radio or an aftermarket?  If it is aftermarket, I believe someone wired it incorrectly.  If it is OEM, I believe it is either failing, or there is a short somewhere, possibly in the ignition switch. Do you have anything connected in your lighter outlet?  If the radio is on, this might be powered also.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to think of what else might be on the accessory circuit that you could test, but nothing is coming to mind other than the radio and cig lighter at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:49:10.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25475" CreationDate="2016-01-29T18:03:27.723" Score="6" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many people who use their car regularly, I like to charge my phone when I'm driving so that it isn't flat with I get to wherever I'm going. I know that some computers have a fast charge port specifically designed to charge such devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am only going a short distance and have forgotten to charge my phone overnight, or it has been subject to heavy usage or whatever else the case may be, I would like to be able to maximise the amount of charge my devices will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I charge my phone using an in-car charger as fast as possible?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do the alternator, transformer and battery each affect the rate of charge respectively (if at all)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have any tips for fast in-car charging (or how to avoid it being unnecessarily slow)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any way to charge a phone or tablet faster through the car than a standard USB port adapter like this one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHnJT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHnJT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Car Charger&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T18:08:39.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T18:33:02.570" Title="How can you optimise the rate at which your electronic devices will charge in the car (fast in-car charging)?" Tags="|car|interior|charging|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2016-01-29T18:19:02.053" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The charging system of a car can deliver TONS of power, so small fluctuations in the alternator or battery are going to be meaningless to the comparatively small amount of power a phone charger needs, so I'm going to say &quot;no effect at all&quot; here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different models of USB chargers will put out a different amount of power, normally labeled in Amps or Milliamps.  The USB specification for a computer says that you must supply 500mA (0.5A) of power.  Laptops that have a special charging port allow up to 2A of power through that one USB port.  Similarly, you can find car chargers that output anywhere from 250mA to 3A.  (To get as low as 250mA, I'm assuming a $2 device labeled as 500mA that performs poorly, but they do exist, and people do expect them to work as well as a nicer model...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the best tip is to get a quality USB charger, and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note about iPhones and iPads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course Apple has to be different...  If the phone or tablet can't &quot;detect&quot; that it is connected to a high-amp charger, it will charge at a very slow rate.  If you have an Apple device, make sure the charger says it's compatible with iPad/iPhone to make sure you get the best charging speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T18:26:21.763" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T18:26:21.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2016-01-29T18:19:24.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car/battery/lighter socket does not matter, it is the lighter socket to USB adapter.  These are typically limited to 5v, 500mA.  You might be able to find one for your phone that allow a higher voltage / amperage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use a power inverter that converts 12v DC to 120V AC and use the AC charger that came with your phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T18:33:02.570" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T18:33:02.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T18:57:53.743" Score="1" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remote will not always lock &amp;amp; unlock car doors + key will not turn in power ignition.&#xA;I did have it changed twice plus replaced remote battery twice&#xA;06&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14713" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:47:05.953" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T16:47:05.953" Title="Remote will not always unlock car plus cannot insert key into ignition?" Tags="|chevrolet|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-30T16:20:35.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T19:22:28.920" Score="7" ViewCount="19747" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time poster trying to get into cars. So my 2007 Toyota Corolla (with around 89k miles) has a Check engine light that reads error code P0171 (System too lean Bank 1). I was looking that up and the few causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake/Vacuum leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malfunctioning O2 sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty/clogged Mass Airflow Sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaking manifold gasket &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MIL turned on after I drove 300 miles from upstate NY to long island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my question is, how do I narrow it down to the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there's listening to the engine idle or something but I'm not sure what I'm listening to and what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14714" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T20:04:17.677" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T00:39:56.993" Title="Diagnosing P0171 2007 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|troubleshooting|corolla|p0171|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T19:51:54.443" Score="4" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Nissan Almera (N15) -99 with a 1.6 L gasoline engine. It has been standing still for over a year and some rust has developed on the brake rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has been standing under a roof but since it wasn't in a completely closed garage the rear of the vehicle might have gotten wet during the rain. That's the only way I can explain why the rear brake rotors have accumulated more rust than the ones in the front. The car does not have drum brakes. I tried driving in and out of the parking space a few times and it seems like the brakes are stuck. Driving back and forth a few times somewhat alleviated the problem but the brakes are still somewhat stuck. I can't drive the car on the road for now since it's not registered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is whether pulling the handbrake while driving would help getting rid of the rust. I'm not sure how exactly the handbrake works - does it simply brake only with the rear tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14715" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:12:37.273" Title="Would Pulling the Handbrake Help Remove Brake Rotor Rust?" Tags="|nissan|rust|almera|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-01-29T20:44:59.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The temperature engine rises because the ignition of the fuel is &lt;strong&gt;slower&lt;/strong&gt;. It takes longer for the fuel to burn because there is less of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel itself has the same amount of BTUs available by burning it whether you use extra oxygen or not. PERIOD. When you blow on the coals in your fire, they get hotter but burn faster. They release the same amount of heat, but in a much shorter period of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine your cylinder as a cabin in the winter. If you took a log and burned it in one minute, the items near the stove where that log was burning would heat up significantly and maybe melt, but most of the heat would go out through the chimney. If you only had one log per hour, the room would be very cold most of the time. Take that same log and burn it slowly for an hour before replacing it with another and less heat goes out through the exhaust and stays in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the engine gets hotter is that the slower burning fuel transfers more heat to the surrounding parts of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T20:44:59.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17437" CreationDate="2016-01-29T21:02:21.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Root Cause: &lt;em&gt;probably a couple of things&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I feel that there isn't enough data here to uncover the smoking gun, but I have realized some things upon reflection that can indicate what is probably wrong with the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Question 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the front lambda sensor voltage is indicating rich, why is the fuel trim positive (indicating that the injector pulse-width is increased because the AFR is deemed too lean by the sensor)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of possibilities spring to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel management has stopped trusting the front lambdas and stays in open-loop mode&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this alone will not explain why the engine misfires only when cold, since the engine should be running in cold-start enrichment mode to avoid that scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing the freeze frame is sorely lacking is fuel flow, which would confirm whether or not cold-start enrichment is taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The fuel management is defaulting to a failsafe map&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was the case though, why would it misfire under light throttle? I highly doubt that Mercedes would release a fuel-mapping which would induce misfires, especially one that is designed to protect the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to believe that there is another issue present, something like unmetered air or partially-clogged injectors which the fuel management cannot accommodate for due to the absence of lambda feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Question 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The misfire happens after a cold start with minimal throttle (note the time since engine start in the freeze frame). I'm not sure I completely understand the interaction here with the faulty lambda sensor, since cold start enrichment is playing a role here. If the system is running slightly richer than stoich, it would it not be less of a reason for the falsely-sensed rich condition to cause a misfire?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmetered air or insufficient fuel delivery + lack of lambda feedback would totally explain this. Cold-start enrichment is there for a reason; cold engines need the extra fuel injected to compensate for the relative lack of fuel vaporization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive long-term fuel trims have me leaning in this direction as well. It could well be that the values shown by the tool are the values from a simulated signal or simply that last values that closed-loop feedback was operating off of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The owner is complaining of poor fuel economy as well. If the front lambda is sensing rich, I would expect the AFR to be leaner than reality, so I would expect fuel economy to be slightly better.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all probability, the fuel management has disavowed the front lambda sensors, so it doesn't matter what they're reporting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here are my top suspects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unmetered air or partially-clogged fuel injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Malfunctioning front lambda sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see how the first problem could lead to the second - if excess fuel is being dumped on the lambda probes via positive fuel trims, it could lead to fouling of the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Recommendations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first step, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;replace the lambda sensors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to let the management go into closed-loop mode so that a clearer picture of AFR correction is obtainable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would then help quantify the extent of the AFR correction. If it is present, it may not be long before my friend needs another pair of front lambdas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Plus, it's helpful to tackle one problem at a time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T21:02:21.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25479" CreationDate="2016-01-29T21:33:18.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the handbrake is doing is using the caliper to bring the pads together on the rear brakes. I don't know if the Nissan Almera is any different than the vast majority of other cars, but most have the emergency brake on the rear brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can see this being helpful is if something is wrong with the brakes besides them being stuck, and the pads are not coming together properly when you press on the pedal. In that case you can't drive it anyway because it's unsafe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, except for the case above, the handbrake isn't really going to be any more helpful than just pressing on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T21:33:18.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25487" CreationDate="2016-01-29T21:43:10.423" Score="4" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking a purchasing a 2006 BMW X5 3.0i and found out that the transmission fluid (by dealer) is not suggested until the vehicle surpasses 100k. They also state that the vehicle will let me know when fluid change is needed by dashboard warning light illumination. That seem quite boastful especially if it includes the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can a transmission survive 100k miles with no filter change and still perform? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can BMW do this while other vehicles must change fluids and filters at preordained intervals? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T23:38:14.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T07:07:11.827" Title="Lifetime transmission fluid" Tags="|bmw|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T21:59:17.403" Score="4" ViewCount="13869" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) is becoming increasingly common in road-going production vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, GDI enables both &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;stratified-charge&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;homogeneous&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; modes of operation, which isn't possible with port injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these terms mean, and how does the engine benefit from using each mode in turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T20:15:08.680" Title="Differences between Homogenous and Stratified-Charge operation" Tags="|engine-theory|gasoline-direct-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25478" CreationDate="2016-01-29T23:13:57.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using your scan tool watch fuel trims at idle, then while still stopped @ 3000 rpm.  Fuel trims going to normal (anything below LTFT 10%) when revving point towards a vacuum leak or faulty MAF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the AFR sensor pull a vacuum line with the engine running and it should go high lean. Then introduce fuel and it should go high rich. Toyota/Denso sensors run 3.33v ideally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To verify MAF condition you do a pull while driving. Recording RPM and MAF g/s and use a volumetric efficiency calculator to verify MAF performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If vacuum leak visually inspect all hoses and the intake tube. Use MAF or brake parts cleaner and spray around the upper intake gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do a fuel pressure test, but Toyota pumps rarely fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you do a repair make sure to clear fuel trim data. Failing to can lead to false positives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T23:13:57.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25484" CreationDate="2016-01-29T23:26:53.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advanced fluids that resist breakdown mostly, and good filters. Old automatics (and I'm assuming the car in question is an auto) usually had service intervals of ~60k, so new technology pushing it out to 100k isn't beyond the realm of possibility. My '02 330i (stick shift) has the same claims, that the fluid is good for the lifetime of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personally, I don't buy it, and changed it this summer after buying the car with 160k on it. Lo and behold, the car shifts a bit smoother. I will continue to change it out at 40k mile intervals as I have done with all my cars. I do all my own work so the cost is minimal, and a fluid change takes all of an hour, including getting the car in the air and on stands.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it, as long as the car shifts smoothly. Most newer cars have longer service intervals. If you're really worried you can have the fluid analysed or just changed out for peace of mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T23:26:53.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T23:58:01.337" Score="2" ViewCount="9842" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so lets start here. First my car started overheating.  We changed the thermostat but it keeps on over heating. Let me explain my problem. I am driving on highways my heaters work perfectly blowing hot air. But as soon as i come into a city where the limit is 50 my car overheats... Okay now motor side, top hose from the rad is smoking hot,bottom hose from the radiator is ice cold, top hose from heater core is hot, bottom heater core hose is cold ... I went to a garage to do a compressor and fluid test, which were all negative .  I have to put Prestone anti-freeze regularly in my car, but it is not a head gaskett as there is no milky oil or any white smoke. Just to make sure I put radiator seal into the head in case there is a small leak ... So, here i am still with my problem..&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I cleaned out the radiator and the heater core by plugging a garden hose into it and cleaned out every thing and then let is sit over night. I put in CLR and let it sit over night and cleaned it out again... So nothing is clogged but i still have my overheating problem... &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I changed my heater valve control and I still have the problem. In addition, my water pump is not noisy or leaking.. The only reason why I'm losing Prestone is because I'm building too much pressure and heat. The Presotone is coming back up and out from my radiator reservoir. Please help me .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14721" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T08:08:24.900" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T05:50:53.423" Title="Mysterious honda civic 2002 overheating some time" Tags="|radiator|overheating|heater|head-gasket|water-pump|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25498" CreationDate="2016-01-30T00:16:37.773" Score="6" ViewCount="3393" Body="&lt;p&gt;So pretty much everyone knows what a speedometer is, the thing on your dash that tells you how fast you are going, whether or not you're speeding, and what speed you have the cruise control set to (assuming you have that feature)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst driving on a long motorway journey with my satnav over the summer I noticed that the speed I was getting on the satnav was &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the same speed that I was getting on the speedometer. They were close, but not the same. I know that the satnav uses the fact that &lt;code&gt;speed = distance/time&lt;/code&gt;. Given that it knows how far you have traveled (according to multiple GPS signals) in a specified time period (I think it updates every 0.5 seconds or so), it can use the information to calculate my current speed. I have always assumed that this is more accurate than the speedometer because I can't see that there would be hardly any error in its method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speedometer in the car on the other hand - I noticed that there was a tag for the wheel speed sensor, but that is about it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How does the speedometer on the dash board actually calculate the speed of the car and why?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Which (of either the speedo of the satnav) is actually a more reliable estimate of the speed of the car?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T09:57:10.853" Title="How does the speedometer on my dash actually work?" Tags="|car|speedometer|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2016-01-30T00:40:33.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this regularly. I have an ordinary secondhand car battery, that I charge through the lighter socket with nothing more than a plug, 2 crocodile clips and a 10A fuse (the car's own lighter socket has a 16A fuse, so the &quot;charger&quot; fuse &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; blow first.) The issues are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I always remove the battery in order to use it, so forgetting to disconnect it is not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you build the adapter, get a plug, a wire (for the negative) an inline fuseholder (for the positive) and 2 crocodile clips. &lt;strong&gt;Make sure the only exposed metal is the crocodile clips.&lt;/strong&gt; Also, get into the habit of connecting the crocodile clips &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; inserting the plug. This will prevent them from accidentally touching. I haven't blown a fuse yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a leisure battery, it may have a much larger capacity than the car battery that I am using, and it may be deep cycled down to a much lower voltage. Both of these will increase the current. A 0.1 ohm resistor in 40W power rating could be useful here: at a 2V difference it would be guaranteed not to exceed 20A. Such a simple solution would of course slow the final part of the charging process. Any electronics store should carry such resistors, but be careful as they can run very hot. Getting a panel mount one and bolting it to a piece of aluminium (not wide enough to bridge the battery contacts) would help with that. I considered such a resistor but in my case it was not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the charging rate is unacceptable for your application, you may need to install a lead under the bonnet. The most important thing is always to make sure it is properly fused (check the current rating of the wire you use.) Car batteries can produce enormous currents if short circuited and can easily start a fire. A resistor of 0.05 or 0.02 ohms will help guarantee the current does not exceed a certain value, though the resistance in the wiring and connections may be comparable to the value of the resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;don't leave your battery on display.&lt;/strong&gt; Someone broke into my car and stole only the battery that was on the floor in front of the passenger seat (and while they were at it, the battery under the bonnet/hood too.) Nothing else was stolen, but my door is now bent out of shape. Now i always stuff some old overalls on top of it whenever the car is parked so that the battery cannot be seen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="11767" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T00:48:40.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T00:48:40.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25489" CreationDate="2016-01-30T01:40:41.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most speedos in the dash for modern electronic based cars, have a sensor in the output shaft of the transmission. It is a simple reluctor wheel and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect#Position_and_motion_sensing&quot;&gt;Hall effect&lt;/a&gt; sensor, or a gear driven motor which can then produce a signal for the PCM to interpret. Cars can also use the same method off of the anti-lock wheel sensor to get a &quot;speed&quot; indication. The more ticks from the sensor, the faster the speedo registers. In this method, the signal is sent to the PCM, which interprets the speed and sends a signal to the speedo. Inside the speedo, there is a motor which spins the needle over to the correct position to indicate the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before electronic gizmos were all the rage, a long piece of spring wire was attached between a gear on the output shaft of the transmission and ran all the way up to the speedometer. This spun a pair of magnets which were close enough at a calibrated distance to move the needle in the speedo. The faster you went, the farther the needle swung over due to the magnet attracting faster and faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which is more accurate, the speedo or satnav, the elusive &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt; answer comes into play. Ultimately the satnav has the greater ability to be more accurate, but it depends on the number of satellites it is receiving from. The more satellites, the better the accuracy. (NOTE: I'm not finding what the accuracy is based on this, but know triangulation works better the more triangles the receiver can make.) I believe that a lot of satnavs will give you the accuracy of their reading if you look into the side menus. The app I use on my Android device (Android-Speedometer) does. Accuracy is also going to be based on which system the satnav system you are using is receiving from. The US launched GPS system is available throughout most of the world (notable exceptions are far Northern and Southern latitudes). It is supposedly good down to 9 meters in the civilian realm, with military usage being better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things regarding the accuracy of an automobile have to do with whether the size of the tires are the size which the manufacturer put on the car in the first place. If the tires are smaller in diameter, the reading on the speedometer is going to be higher than it should; larger diameter = lower reading. This is of course affecting the accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else I've often wondered is whether manufacturers &lt;em&gt;actually calibrate their speedos correctly&lt;/em&gt;. Of all the speedos I've tested utilizing the roadside radar signs which tell you your speed, almost all vehicles have tested slow for what the speedo is telling me. For instance ... I used to own an '04 VW Jetta 1.8T. I noticed the RADAR signs would read out at 22 or 23 mph while my speedo was reading 25mph. You say, 2mph, that's not a big deal, right? Consider this ... If off by 2mph @ 25, extrapolate that out to 50mph and 75mph. You'd have a difference of 4mph and 6mph, respectively. At 100mph you'd actually only be going 92mph. Let's apply this against your &lt;em&gt;odometer reading&lt;/em&gt;. If the car thinks it's going 50mph and only doing 46mph, then your odometer would register 50 miles, when you've only gone 46. Extrapolate that out to 50,000 miles, at which point you've run out of warranty ... yet the vehicle has only traveled 46k. Lets the vehicle manufacturer off the hook early. What about a lease vehicle? This would mean you would run out of miles sooner than you should have, and the lease company can charge you for miles which you've never driven. This could be a big issue. If your vehicle was registering slow in comparison to the satnav, this &lt;em&gt;might be what you're seeing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some anecdotal evidence, I ran a TomTom satnav while driving a Camaro which I had put back on the road. The TomTom has a built-in display showing how fast you are travelling. I wanted to know how accurate the Camaro's speedo was so checked it against it. I was quite surprised to find out my Camaro was &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; within +/- 1mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I'd give almost always give credit to the satnav's speed rendering over the car's speedo due to the above reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T01:40:41.923" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25469" CreationDate="2016-01-30T02:00:12.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wesayner explains how this works, but admits that the measurement is subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a good way to tell the state of your battery, but it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; tell you if a dead battery is the reason your engine won't start (or, more specifically, won't turn over.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter is connected to the battery by a relay: the keyswitch operates an electromagnet, that closes a pair of contacts that handle the much larger current of the starter motor. The starter motor relay is known as the &quot;solenoid&quot; (a word which in more general parlance means simply an electromagnet.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the headlights do not dim when you try to start the car, it means the solenoid is not switching on the starter current. There is a problem with the wiring or the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the headlights do dim when you try to start the car, it means current is reaching the starter motor, but it is failing to deliver sufficient force to turn the engine. Either the battery is flat or the engine is seized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The solenoid is mounted on the starter motor, in order to keep the thick heavy duty wire from the battery as short as possible. This arrangement also means that in some cases the solenoid can also be used to engage the starter pinion and flywheel mechanically.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="11767" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T00:27:09.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T00:27:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T04:11:06.173" Score="3" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of days back I noticed my 2011 Yamaha Scorpio had begun leaking fuel whilst parked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon close inspection it was just a slow drip coming from a tube near the rear of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After searching around it appears that I may have a &quot;stuck float&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried tapping the fuel bowls with the end of a screw driver, but I'm either not rapping them sharply enough or it isn't doing the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very mechanically minded, nor do I have many tools to try taking the carburetor off and fixing it myself - so before I take it in to get a mechanic to take a look, is there a way to stop the leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried turning off my fuel line before, turning the dial from on to off, however after an hour this had little to no effect on the dripping coming from the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can do in the meantime to prevent the leak before getting it looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the pipe that is leaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6As90.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6As90.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leaking Pipe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is where it feeds in to if I trace it back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAZZt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qAZZt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Source it originates from&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14724" LastEditorUserId="14724" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T19:46:35.580" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T06:57:42.383" Title="Temporarily stop fuel going to carburetor" Tags="|carburetor|fuel-tank|scooter|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T05:53:45.590" Score="3" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;i changed the master key for my 2006 chevy malibu because the old key got lost. now i have lost the new key and found the old one. is there a way to reprogram the key to work again? Will the instructions for programming a blank key work for this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14726" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T16:46:41.937" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T09:50:49.077" Title="reprogramming a key for 2006 chevy malibu" Tags="|chevrolet|key|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T09:12:53.123" Score="4" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car had a broken piston, and broke down completely. I bought a new engine, and had it installed. everything seemed to be working aside from a low clicking sound when driving coming from the engine. I was able to drive it great distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day, as I was driving the radio just shut off for no reason. I had my friend who was driving accelerate to see if the car was still driving. The car moved fine. He pulled over anyway. Once he pulled over, he turned it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that day, it has not turned back on. I had the battery replaced, and that did nothing. Jumping it does nothing. It doesn't even make a clicking sound or try to turn over at all. Is it my alternator? Something worse? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having it towed to a mechanic soon, but before I waste the money to have them tell me it will cost more than the cars worth to fix, I thought I'd  ask around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14729" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T11:08:10.477" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T11:08:10.477" Title="What is wrong with my car?" Tags="|engine|car|saturn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25496" CreationDate="2016-01-30T09:44:55.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car was running ok, then the alternator was at least providing charge. The fact you couldn't turn it on again after stopping suggests the battery was not holding any charge. So my initial guess would be battery (after eventually deciphering your question I realise you already tried replacing that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you do also look at the alternator as well - especially with the ticking noise it may be that the alternator is on its last legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, it's very tricky to diagnose over the Internet without more information, so my recommendation is still to get your mechanic to have a good look at it. Maybe it's just a dodgy connection somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T09:44:55.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25489" CreationDate="2016-01-30T09:57:10.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers deliberately calibrate their speedos incorrectly. They make sure the speedo always reads higher than the actual road speed, and there is a very good legal reason for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedometers must never read lower than the actual speed (European law (ECE-R39) says speedometers cannot show speeds less than the actual speed. Other countries have similar) - as then a driver could legitimately argue the case for speeding unknowingly, so in an ideal world speedos would read the exact speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, tyre pressure variations and other effects mean there is a small degree of uncertainty, so in order to make sure the displayed speed is never lower than actual, manufacturers build in a certain amount of leeway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount varies between manufacturers (and models, sometimes) and also depending on what speed. As I mentioned in another answer, at 30 my speedo only reads a couple of mph over actual, but at 90 there is quite a large difference, and then up at 140 the error margin reduces again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T09:57:10.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25496" CreationDate="2016-01-30T10:23:04.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a guess at a faulty ignition switch.  The radio usually comes on with the ignition witch in position 1, but the ignition in position 2.  The radio stopped working, then after turning the switch, the ignition stopped working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T10:23:04.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25494" CreationDate="2016-01-30T11:38:36.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A float gets &quot;waterlogged&quot; (so saturated with fuel that it just won't float anymore.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The float could be bent in position.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn tip on float needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn o-ring in the float seat &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excess dirt and varnish in the carburetor. (Varnish deposits occur when fuel sits too long..)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is remove and examine the carburetor.  Take it apart, clean up all the gunked fuel (varnish), test the float, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/901127/Yamaha-Scorpio.html?page=156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adjust it as required.&lt;/a&gt;  Examine the float needle and seat and rebuild as required. The fuel level should be between 2.7 and 4.7 mm below the float chamber casting split line.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T11:48:16.597" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T11:48:16.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25488" CreationDate="2016-01-30T12:16:04.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in general agreement with Ben.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling fan not working.  The description of high vehicle speed = okay and low speed not means your fan isn't working for you. This could be a problem with fan controller, fan motor or temp sender used to turn on fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note, the fan shrouds matter big! Ensure they are sealed off to radiator correctly.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please check the radiator cap, ensure that BOTH seals are clean and working correctly. My guess is you've got a bad cap, and the small seal isn't working. The small seal has a very light spring on it. The small seal lets coolant back into the engine (from the overflow bottle) after you shut the engine off and the engine cools down.  If that small cap has no spring force on it, that means the water in your coolant system will boil at 212 deg F.  If both seals work correctly the coolant boils at a much higher temperature, in the range of 240 deg F.  This allows for MUCH better heat transfer and allows your car to cool off better.  The other thing that small valve does is help the system purge air bubbles from within the top of the engine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flushing doesn't always clear heat exchanger. Hmm, make that flushing rarely clears a plugged heat exchanger.  Has this car only had distilled water + antifreeze in it? If not, why not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In fact from your description, it definitely sounds like the coolant isn't getting cooled off in the radiator. That could be a plugged heat exchanger or could be a water pump impeller issue.  (If you removed the 'fan' belt can you spin the water pump by hand, does it seem to tighten up with the more fast turns you make, or does it spin way way too freely?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not positive your thermostat is working correctly.  Its a pretty simple test.  Start with cold car.  Place it in Park, start engine. Hold on to the top radiator hose.  It should start cold.  After a few (10? 15?) minutes, the hose should jump from cold to hot.  The thermostat acts like a switch, it either open or its closed.  If the hose goes from cold, to a bit warmer to a bit warmer to a bit warmer than the thermostat isn't working correctly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For your testing focus on the radiator, not the heater core.  The coolant always runs thru the heater core, there is no coolant control system there.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T12:26:53.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T12:26:53.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25488" CreationDate="2016-01-30T12:40:22.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the water pump, it sounds like the blades may have corroded away.  From your description it certainly sounds like the water isn't circulating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T12:40:22.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25494" CreationDate="2016-01-30T15:12:04.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you doubted the trouble was with the float. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like you to remove the bottom cup of the carburettor and remove the fuel and gently blow some air to the float and to the jet. Make sure not to disturb the Air or Fuel Screw. If you disturb it, it will be the difficult task to tune it back to normal by you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now gently tap the float and make it free. Make sure there is a fly needle which will hold the float in its position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix back the bottom cup and wait for a couple of hours for the leak. If you find again then check the gasket of the bottom cup as well as the o-ring overflow screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T06:57:42.383" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T06:57:42.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25469" CreationDate="2016-01-30T15:29:52.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Steverrill but it was partly correct. &#xA;Let me give the clear explanation, why actually the Headlight Dims? In actual the headlight will not dim, it was turned off during the engine cranking. This is because the starter motor is the battery hogger(It will drain out the complete battery in the matter of 15-30 minutes continues run). So the manufacturers designed the starter motor to work in the isolated manner ie the starter motor alone was directly connected to the battery with a solenoid (Bendex or electromagnetic contact). It is also designed in such a way that if the starter motor solenoid was engaged it will disengage all the other electrical / electronic equipments like Headlight, Stereo, AC/Heater Blower,etc. Once the Engine is started then automatically the solenoid will disengage and so all the remaining systems will come back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly I have cleared out your doubts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T15:29:52.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25477" CreationDate="2016-01-30T15:34:24.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the RF receiver of the central locking system is faulty. It was not the problem with the Car Battery or the remote battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to the service station and get it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T15:34:24.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T16:53:47.653" Score="4" ViewCount="2824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used an OBD to get data from one of my friend's car - Volkswagen Polo 1.5L Diesel. But the car was idling at around 900 rpm, while the throttle position I got was around 22%. How is it possible? As I am increasing the throttle its going to 88%, 90%.... But once I leave the throttle pedal, the load drops to 22%, which I think should be around 5%-7%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T17:26:34.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T04:45:25.450" Title="Can the throttle position be high during idle" Tags="|vw|obd-ii|diesel|throttle|polo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25548" CreationDate="2016-01-30T17:10:20.330" Score="8" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2791/how-does-an-automatic-gearbox-know-when-to-change-gear&quot;&gt;similar question here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9957/in-an-automatic-transmission-what-decides-to-change-gears&quot;&gt;another one here&lt;/a&gt; that asks &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; an automatic gearbox knows how to change gear, but I want to know exactly &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; it does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was brought to my attention recently that the gears don't &quot;shift&quot; in an automatic gearbox as one might expect them to. Instead there are a number of gears that at different speeds to somehow create different gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1zbE21Pzl0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; but apparently that is a very simplistic explanation to how it all fits together and doesn't tell me anything about what it actually looks like, only what happens inside to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How exactly does the automatic transmission work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How are all the gears held in place?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What does the transmission system look like in reality?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T01:07:41.773" Title="How come gears don’t normally change in an automatic car?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|car|gears|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27462" CreationDate="2016-01-30T17:52:34.970" Score="20" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I don't want my indicators to self cancel, so I hold the indicator on while turning the wheel, and it makes a cracking/clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I damaging anything if I do this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To clarify, I am holding the indicator in the on position while the wheel is turning so the wheels are straight again. This means the indicator pushes to self-cancel and fails as I'm holding it in position, and I feel some force from the indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE: I would prefer to have an answer from an official source. Thanks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:50:59.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T13:52:03.847" Title="Does (forcefully) overriding the self-canceling damage my indicator levers?" Tags="|lights|indicators|instrument|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T18:05:05.293" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rent in an urban area, so I don't own a shovel - weather almost never requires!  But the East Coast got hit with an unusual storm, and my car is snowed in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to dig out my car without damaging it short of buying a shovel, to be used only once?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas that come to mind: rent a shovel, using some kind of sharing network, ask a neighbor, pour hot water.  I have called a few hardware stores (none rent) , can't find any share economy sites for this, and CL didn't have anything listed.  Suggestions?  Other info: hard snow, heavy, about a foot deep, ambient temp is ~ 40 F.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11980" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T13:10:42.927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T13:10:42.927" Title="One time snow removal" Tags="|troubleshooting|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-01-31T19:44:26.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25509" CreationDate="2016-01-30T19:22:21.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Door Mat Scoop&lt;/strong&gt; - Depending on how compacted the snow is that surrounds your car, you may be able to get away with using a doormat as an improvised snow scoop. This would be a good option (assuming you have one), especially if the snow has not long fallen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car Towing&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have access to another car (preferably four/all wheel drive), and you can access the car tow point you could use a tow rope to be able to apply a force to the car stuck in snow. Hopefully, this force will be enough to pull the car free before the wheels on the towing vehicle lose traction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Winch&lt;/strong&gt; - Along similar lines as the towing situation, but without the need for another car, you can consider using a hand winch. You need a secure anchor point and again the ability to access a secure towing point on the car that is stuck. There is a good post about these &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25251/14003&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I am correct in assuming that none of the above are a viable option for you due to your urban, and hence somewhat unprepared situation - you may also find some of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25246/14003&quot;&gt;these tips&lt;/a&gt; useful. I think that many of the tips I gave about how to get your car out of a snow bank would also apply to your situation because a lot of the points that were made there assumed that you had access to limited tools (though some didn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T19:48:44.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T20:44:24.163" Score="1" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a question earlier about a P0171 MIL in my 2007 toyota corolla. The question is here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25478/diagnosing-p0171-2007-toyota-corolla&quot;&gt;Diagnosing P0171 2007 Toyota Corolla&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I only have a OBD2 reader, I just bought a scanner, which should come on Monday but when I was looking around my engine for leaks and such, I saw a little crack where the PCV pipe connects with the air intake pipe. I've attached a picture with the crack outlined in red. I want to know if that is normal or if it's significant enough to cause the P0171 error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6ULg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6ULg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a response to my earlier post but I'm not quite sure how to ask a question from my original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14714" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T21:29:15.400" Title="Is this PCV hose broken?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|air-intake|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25511" CreationDate="2016-01-30T21:15:34.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly looks cracked.  You could try spraying some EGR cleaner at the crack while the engine is idling. If the EGR cleaner gets sucked in through the cracked pipe, the revs of the engine will change, which will confirm you have an air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T21:29:15.400" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T21:29:15.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-30T21:23:02.247" Score="6" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's engine frequently stops in the middle of a ride. Its an old model of Hyundai Sonata 2004. This happens especially in high gears(3,4) and faster speeds (like 60-70 mph). It has also happened in the lower gears 1,2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when this happens, I slide the car on the side road using emergency lights and halt it. When I am restarting my car, I have to push the brake and gas pedal till the end to get the car starting again. There is nothing wrong with the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T13:44:42.077" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T13:44:42.077" Title="What is the problem if my car's engine stops running in the middle of a ride?" Tags="|engine|gasoline|winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25515" CreationDate="2016-01-30T21:43:14.170" Score="4" ViewCount="2008" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (2012 VW Passat SE) is in its 4th year but only has 10k miles on it. I am wondering if I need to get the 40k/4year service done on the car which is going to cost $700 (I think it includes a head to toe inspection plus oil and spark plug change) or if I could just get an oil change done. I don't know anything about cars so thought could ask here. Does a spark plug need to be replaced with age or miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T11:58:11.860" Title="What kind of service to get done on a car in its 4th year but having only 10k miles?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25514" CreationDate="2016-01-30T22:59:22.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best advice would be that you should get your car serviced regularly as per the manufacturers recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 40k or 4 year service would normally mean that it needs that service at 40k miles or 4 years of age - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;whichever comes first&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. What I mean by this is that if lets say your car had done 40k miles in one year, it would need a service due to the fact that it has traveled the 40k miles specified. Equally, having done only 10k in 4 years, you will still need a service due to the fact that you have reached that 4 year time interval. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to the fact that certain components on your car are going to need replacing after a certain time interval, irrespective of how many miles have been put on the car in that time. Components that may wear out due to time include (but are not limited to) things like the rubber cam and serpentine belts, fuel and oil filters, engine oil and engine coolant. If these things are not replaced as and when they should be, they can lead to other issues with your car later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; I will add that usually cars tend to get a minor service once a year (unless you have a major service), and a major service every other year. You may want to see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/regimes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page on the Volkswagen website&lt;/a&gt; for more information about the different types of service that you may want to consider for your Volkswagen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T11:58:11.860" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T11:58:11.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25521" CreationDate="2016-01-31T00:41:07.023" Score="8" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm toying with turbojet engine ideas, and over the course of my research it occurred to me that the combustion chamber could be more power-efficient and space-efficient if it was aligned in the desired direction of airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if the combustion chamber is 1-2 feet long, and both the intake and exhaust turbo manifolds need to connect directly to opposite ends of the combustion chamber, then the intake and exhaust portions of the turbo would need to be separated from each other and the shaft extended to allow room for the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically something like the picture below, but with the combustion chamber rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise-ish to eliminate the long intake tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shaft were extended, and the compressor further distanced from the turbine, how would this affect the central bits of the turbocharger, and the oil circulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh34A0b8MrE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt; for the photo, and here's what it looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EorMrpM6q9Q&amp;amp;t=1m32s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when operating&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItQnW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItQnW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;colinfurze turbojet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14735" LastEditorUserId="14735" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T22:00:10.393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:00:10.393" Title="Is it possible to extend the length of the shaft on an existing turbocharger, further distancing the compressor from the turbine?" Tags="|exhaust|air-intake|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25210" CreationDate="2016-01-31T02:38:48.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water, Dawn (dishwashing detergent) and rubbing alcohol makes a great solvent, and it's not too hard on the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T02:38:48.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2016-01-31T05:42:13.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know specifically about your car but in general it is possible.  Some cars have a cam that opens the throttle plate when the engine is cold to increase the idle.  My &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24093/why-have-more-than-one-iac-type-device-on-an-engine&quot;&gt;99 Nissan Almera has such a cam&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooling system has two purposes.  The obvious one is to disperse excess heat and prevent the engine from overheating.  The less obvious one is to make sure a cold engine reaches optimum operating temperature as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways this second task are accomplished.  One is by the use of a thermostat.  The thermostat prevent coolant from flowing from the engine to the radiator until the engine has reached a certain temperature ( usually around 85*C) at which point it starts to open and allow the circulation of coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way is artificially increase the idle, which increase heat production, and brings engine up to temperature.  This is usually done in one of two ways.  Some cars use the IAC ( Idle Air Control ) and others use a special CAM connected directly to the throttle plate.  As the engine warms up the amount of extra idle will slowly be backed off by the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment, it sounds like you've got such a CAM on your throttle, and I suspect this may be more common on smaller engines.  Also, if you're seeing that your friend's engine is not getting above a certain temperature, his thermostat might be stuck open, or a previous owner may have even completely removed the thermostat, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/16816/7132&quot;&gt;which happened to me once&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T10:54:34.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25517" CreationDate="2016-01-31T06:02:39.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things to consider if you end up doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A longer shaft will reduce the speed that you can safely spin the turbos up to&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got to do with something engineers call &lt;em&gt;rotordynamics&lt;/em&gt;, although I highly doubt you would need to spin something up to 125,000 RPM for a turbojet application :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find that the existing journal bearings are not adequate for the requirements for the purposes of rotordynamic stability, so choose your turbo wisely&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Consider modifying the oil supply system&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shaft on an automotive turbo is relatively short, so both turbine-side and compressor-side bearings can be fed by a common oil supply. As you want to do away with the turbo housing, you will probably have to make it the oil supply system external to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7kPT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7kPT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Turbo Cutaway&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T06:02:39.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="447" CreationDate="2016-01-31T07:40:09.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually Vespa PX will give approximately 30-35KMPL, since you are getting 25KMPL I recommend you to check the air filter and the spark plug. This particular model is not available in our country, so I may be wrong somewhere. But I am giving you the basic tips which is suitable for all the automotive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the air filter if it is too much dusty or oily(Happens in some vehicles) replace it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the spark plug- if it is highly carbon coated remove the carbon using thin files or sand papers and maintain the spark gap. If possible replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the idle engine beat(rhythm) if it is not even adjust the AFR (Air Fuel Adjustment) till you get the similarly repeated rhythm, in the same time maintain the engine rpm between 650-800.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the clutch if the clutch is too tight or loose adjust the clutch cable to bring it to the regular.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly this will help you to increase the KMPL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T07:40:09.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25514" CreationDate="2016-01-31T07:50:21.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is always recommend to get the vehicle serviced as per manufacturer specification. weather it is less kilometer or less time, It is because of the following reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the vehicle exceed the manufacturer specific distance then automatically the engine oil, coolant, filters need to be monitored, if needed replace or top-up need to be done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the vehicle exceed the manufacturer specific time, then the rubber parts like belts, consumable part like filters, oils, coolant may get spoiled, so it need to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is advisable to take your vehicle to the authorized service station and get the complete check-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="13371" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T11:46:20.113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T11:46:20.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25495" CreationDate="2016-01-31T09:50:49.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this, put the key in and leave it in the run position for half an hour. This should learn the key to the anti theft system. You may also want to hook up a battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails a scan tool will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T09:50:49.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2016-01-31T12:27:25.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not actually. The OBD2 sensors probe the throttle positions in terms of percentage, not the actual mechanical position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idle of the vehicle Volkswagen polo was governed by ECM, and the rpm varies from 550 -900rpm  and most standard is 600-800. It was based on the various factors as below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambient temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine condition which also include the filters like Air,Oil,and Fuel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2 sensors feedback&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ambient temperature is too cold then the oxygen supply to the engine will be too high and if it is hot then too low, to achieve the balanced AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) the idle rpm of the engine will be increased or decreased by adjusting the throttle electronically. During high rpm obviously you will get the rise in the throttle percentage and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can explain for all the remaining conditions too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no need to bother more about the internals (Intelligent) part of the car. If a huge difference was found the system will give the warning. If you are curious you can get the status code on referring the &lt;a href=&quot;http://elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM327DS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ELM DataSheet&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://elmelectronics.com/ELM327/AT_Commands.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Command Set&lt;/a&gt;, or if you have any ready software available you can probe the error code and decode the errors with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T12:27:25.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25513" CreationDate="2016-01-31T12:56:42.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If while trying to start the engine without pressing the brake, the engine turns over but does not start, then I would suspect a fault in the brake booster that is letting unmetered air into the vacuum circuit.  This would cause a very weak mixture while the throttle is closed during starting, which would cause the problem you are having.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you press the brake and open the throttle, this air leak may stop or become insignificant compared to the air flowing through the normal metered air intake path, so allowing the engine to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T12:56:42.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24402" CreationDate="2016-01-31T13:26:28.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possible reasons &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As mentioned by @user5626466.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improper circulation of the coolant in the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the habit of using tap water instead of the coolant, the fine holes in the engine case which circulate the coolant to all the engine parts may got clogged and some parts might be rusted which may affect the flow of coolant. This will considerably increase the engine temperature and so the engine will not start. If this is the case take your vehicle to the appropriate service station and get it ready, Otherwise replace the coolant sensor and keep roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T13:26:28.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T13:47:35.423" Score="6" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some projector headlights with Hi 55 watt bulbs in both the high and low beam modes. The low beam, which is the projector lens, isn't that bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What other bulbs would be recommended for a brighter light with the projector lens without spending a lot of money?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else run across this issue before when replacing the low beam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14741" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T18:28:52.573" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:35:29.543" Title="What are the brightest bulbs for projector headlamps?" Tags="|chevrolet|headlight|silverado|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T14:35:35.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25534" CreationDate="2016-01-31T14:15:04.557" Score="7" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a month and a half of not driving the car, yesterday I tried to turn it on, however the only sound that I heard was the rotation of the starter, which is not engaging the flywheel (the engine is not turning over). Additionally, there is not a clicking sound when I turn the key to ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried multiple times and the result is still the same and I've checked the the battery voltage: 12.2 V, which is not 12.6 V, but there were some large temperature variations that explain possible discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the most probable cause is the starter solenoid or some electrical component related to it, like a relay or fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YuHd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YuHd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What testing procedure could I follow to detect and identify the problem given the above &lt;em&gt;&quot;symptoms&quot;&lt;/em&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, how can I test whether there is a electrical (relay, fuse) or mechanical (solenoid, shift lever) problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not able to find a schematic, but this what the starter looks like externally; above is an old one and below is a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o330J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o330J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 1997 BMW E39 520i&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T19:01:30.587" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:01:30.587" Title="Distinguishing between mechanical and electrical failure in ignition diagnosis" Tags="|battery|troubleshooting|bmw|ignition|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24402" CreationDate="2016-01-31T14:28:46.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible cause might be the 16-year old, slightly mechanically stretched timing chain that gets the &quot;right&quot; amount of additional elongation from the warm engine that puts the engine timing and more specifically the ignition timing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzTAJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzTAJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another component that could lead to problems with the timing chain is a faulty tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T14:28:46.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25531" CreationDate="2016-01-31T14:42:43.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the picture you have attached is similar to the starter on you car, then the power to the starter motor is only delivered if the solenoid operates, so the solenoid must be working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the shift lever labelled in the picture, that pushes the pinion forward to engage with the flywheel may be broken, that would explain your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem could also be explained by the pinion being siezed on the shaft it slides on, where all the motion of the shift lever is being absorbed by the spring behind the pinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the teeth have been stripped off the pinion or the flywheel.  If the flywheel teeth are damaged, you could try nudging the car forward a little with it in gear so that the flywheel moves different teeth next to the starter pinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch would be that the starter pinion has siezed on the shaft, so that it is not being pushed toward the flywheel.  You may be able to tap the rear end of the main starter motor shaft with a hammer to free it off, otherwise you will need to remove the starter and lubricate the shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T14:49:58.623" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T14:49:58.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25531" CreationDate="2016-01-31T14:54:31.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are hearing the starter turn (typical starter &lt;em&gt;whir&lt;/em&gt;), the most probable problem would be the one way clutch has gone out. It's the part of the starter with the teeth on it which engages the starter ring gear. If the solenoid has gone out, the starter motor will not spin, because the solenoid is the part which forces a large copper washer into the posts which transfers electricity to the starter motor. Without it working, there is no connection for the starter motor to be energized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real way to test this is to take the starter off of the engine and check the one way clutch. What you'd be looking for is to just turn the gear on the one way clutch in both directions. If it does spin in both directions (without spinning the motor along with it), then it's bad. If it only spins freely in one direction, that is not your issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the starter is off of the engine, you can bench test it to ensure the starter is working as you'd expect. You just need a pair of jumper cable which are attached to the battery. Attach your negative lead (ground/earth) to the starter housing. The place the positive to the main solenoid stud (labeled battery connection in your illustration). You'll then need to take a screwdriver and jump the connection between the solenoid stud and the &quot;S&quot; connection on the solenoid (this will be the small terminal between and outside of the two larger terminals on the back of the solenoid). If the one way clutch pops out and spins, it should be in good shape (as long as the one way clutch turns out okay). When placing the positive jumper to the post, you don't want to run it for too long ... No more than a few seconds. You only want it there long enough to observe operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T19:36:57.210" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T19:36:57.210" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25571" CreationDate="2016-01-31T15:53:00.057" Score="7" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was with my wife and three children in the car, 300 KM from home just after sunset. I pulled into a gas station and as before all long trips, I dialed 31 PSI on the gas station's air compressor and attached it to the tire. The air compressor was inoperable, and let out enough air to bring the tire down to 26 PSI before I realized which way the air was flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How might I have tested the compressor beforehand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply pushing the &quot;flat inflate&quot; button would not be a good test, as in fact this machine had a few PSI residual and the &quot;flat inflate&quot; button did put out spurts of air. Running &quot;flat inflate&quot; until the compressor comes on won't help as I cannot be certain that 30+ PSI at the sensor translates to 30+ PSI at the outlet (I've had this problem in the past, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T16:09:08.563" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T17:53:02.827" Title="How to test gas station air compressors before use?" Tags="|tires|maintenance|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2016-01-31T19:45:52.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A costly mistake (that I just made) while rotating engine forward to gain access to the rear sparkplugs:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can end up with your keys locked in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sites recommend that you put the car into neutral prior to loosening the &quot;dogbone&quot; which lets you rotate the engine forward more easily.  In order to put the car into neutral the obvious thing is to put the key in the ignition, shift to neutral, get out and go to work.  However, if you close the door, the car will automatically lock the doors because it is in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14744" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T19:45:52.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:14:45.890" Score="6" ViewCount="16772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 GMC Yukon 1500XL. The right rear brake caliper went bad because of a torn rubber boot, which caused the brake pads on that wheel to wear out really quickly. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads on that wheel. The left rear wheel is still in good shape, with a good caliper, a good rotor with plenty of thickness and 9/32&quot; of brake pad lining on both inner and outer brake pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why I would need to replace the pads (and rotor) on left rear wheel just because I replaced the pads on the right rear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to leave the left rear as is just in case that caliper were to go bad 10k miles from now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14745" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T20:18:45.193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T23:47:13.947" Title="Why do you have to replace brake pads on both rear wheels at same time?" Tags="|brakes|gmc|yukon-xl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25538" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:18:03.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So that both sides of the brake equation are equal. This means they are both starting at the same place again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you purchase brake pads, they come in sets for both sides. Since you have to purchase new brake pads anyway, you should put them on there or it's a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T20:18:03.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25538" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:20:27.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason for replacing both at the same time is so that they brake evenly.  This is more essential on the front of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to stamp on the brakes in an emergency, you wouldn't want the car to swerve into oncoming cars because the brake on one side of your car worked better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - make that 3 reasons if you add paulster's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T20:20:27.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T20:40:00.000" Score="7" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is 2006 Toyota Sienna AWD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed struts and sway bar link arms and then got alignment done, shop said steering is &quot;returning from the right too fast.&quot; They said the alignment was all green, but maybe the ball joint castle nut was torqued too tight. I tried loosening the castle nut by one notch but this did not change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I adjust to fix this? Do I need ball joints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2700" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T22:26:30.597" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T17:43:07.033" Title="I changed struts and got alignment done, shop said steering is &quot;returning from the right too fast&quot;" Tags="|toyota|steering|sienna|frontend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:03:53.593" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '98 Mazda 626 LX. About a month ago it suddenly started shaking really badly, so I took it to Midas for them to check the engine. They told me it needed a fuel flush, throttle body cleaning, and fuel system flush. They wanted a lot of money, so I took it to another place. They checked it, cleaned the throttle body and changed a bad fuel injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the car ran great and the acceleration problem went away. But yesterday the check engine came back on (flashing). The car wants to turn off on me again. And it smells like something I can't put my finger on. I checked the fuel injectors they are all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas. It has been idling low since I got the car 6 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14748" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:31:09.363" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:31:09.363" Title="1998 Mazda 626 LX with CEL and rough idle" Tags="|rough-idle|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25544" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:16:45.633" Score="4" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both dim headlights quit working at same time, both brights headlights work fine.&#xA;Fuses are ok and the relays in fuse box control right side and left side. There is no relay for brights and dims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14749" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T22:20:02.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:31:21.053" Title="2002 honda accord dim lights will not work" Tags="|honda|accord|headlight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25543" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:31:21.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked at the lights to make sure the filament is still good? It is feasible you lost both headlights at nearly the same time. It's also possible, you didn't notice one of them had gone out (you mentioned they were dim ... a single bulb would have looked like dim &lt;em&gt;bulbs&lt;/em&gt;) before the second one went out. Look for black spots on the bulb. Also, don't handle bulbs with bare hands, as the oil from your skin will kill them quickly (if the bulbs are still good). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:31:21.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14984" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:48:33.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a AGM  battery in my audi a4 1999 , and the computer got confused enough to throw up annoying symbols on the dash , like bulb out errors and the like , so i changed back to excide premium 90AH , I recon the cars computer just could't figure out what had changed ,with the AGM being able to be recharged 5 times faster than the standard battery , but no damage done , every day is a school day . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:48:33.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25479" CreationDate="2016-01-31T22:49:26.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No;in fact if the hand-emergency-brake hasn't been used regularly you could lock the rear brakes up. Or at least cause them to wear out prematurely from rubbing against the inside of the wheel. This happened to me several years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14734" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T22:49:26.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25583" CreationDate="2016-01-31T23:22:05.627" Score="6" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;My poor Saab 900 is having touble getting going.  I was away for about a month, and got the oil changed before I left.  When I came back, I drove the car to my grandmother's and back, about 15 minutes each way, and it ran fine.  The next day, it stalled right after starting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to start the car, it revs to about 1400rpm as usual, but drops slowly to 0 instead of settling at the standard 800rpm idle.  On subsequent attempts, it stalls out much quicker.  If I let the car sit overnight and try again, the rpms die a little slower on the first try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throttle body is clean and the butterfly valve doesn't stick.  I looked for vacuum leaks but saw nothing obvious.  (Not sure how to check thoroughly without a running engine.)  The air filter is clean too, to be sure.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Idle air control&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned and oiled the IAC valve.  When I turn the assembly quickly in my hand, I can feel the rotor turning easily inside.  That's not supposed to have a return spring, right?  If not, it seems to rotate freely.  Also, the voltage across the contacts jumps when I turn it, so I figure it's working according to Faraday's Law.  It also shows a steady resistance across its contacts.  One wire to the IAC is grounded and another is getting 12v.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle position sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing for the TPS.  The resistance across the TPS changes smoothly when I open and close the valve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mass air flow sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MAF appears clean, but I wiped off the contact anyway.  Not sure how to test this one.  Blow across it and check for a change in resistance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked that the battery (-) was properly grounded to the chassis.  In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t30826_ds576452&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, someone suggests that an improper ground, combined with an older battery (or one that's been sitting for a month?) can cause &quot;a relay to drop out&quot;.  How can I look into this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I also pulled all the ignition wires and cleaned the contacts, both on the distributor and spark plug end.  Some of the spark plug contacts seemed to have a little gunk on them.  I also cleaned the &quot;brushes&quot; inside the distributor cap, which had a bit of build up on them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the contacts, I put everything back together and tried again.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/CxrWSi-C-Fk&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; (sorry for the lighting.)  Surprisingly, on the second try, the car actually idled!  I pushed my luck by touching the gas pedal, and that killed it.  But considering how much better it did today (actually idled for a few seconds), I am considering replacing the ignition wires.  But then what would the pedal have to do with it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen anything like this?  Taking suggestions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9541" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:53:04.800" Title="'96 Saab starts, stalls" Tags="|starting|idle|stall|cold-start|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25507" CreationDate="2016-02-01T00:56:48.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is incredibly board because it can be broken into 5 distinct aspects; planetary gear sets operation, clutch and band operation, torque converter operation, control system operation and the power flow through the transmission. Further complicating the answer is that there are hundreds of different types, kinds and transmission manufacturers. For the rest of the response i will focus on the power flow through the transmission assuming that you already know how everything else works. I gave a description of how the transmission contort system works in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25321/what-is-a-governor-and-what-is-it-used-for/25322#25322&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and how the overrunning or sprag clutch works in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25034/what-is-a-sprag-unit-and-what-does-it-do/25036#25036&quot;&gt;this post.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be describing the Chrysler 3 speed Torqueflite transmission. It is the simplest of the transmissions and in school this transmission was used as an example for basic transmission operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission has these basic components; input shaft, front clutch, reverse clutch, kick down band, low and reverse band, kick down planetary gear set, intermediate shaft, reverse planetary gears set and output shaft. The input shaft turns both clutches. The front clutch is attached to the ring gear of the kick down planetary gear set through the intermediate shaft. The reverse clutch is attached to both the sun gears of the planetary gear sets, the kick down band can also stop the same assembly. The output shaft, kick down planet carrier and reverse ring gear are all tied together. Finally the reverse planet carrier is tied to a overrunning clutch and can be held by the low reverse band. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub95F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub95F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Gear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In firs gear only the front clutch is applied. The front clutch transfers rotation from the input shaft to the intermediate shaft then to the kick down ring gear. From here it gets complicated because there is a double gear reduction that is hard to see. The kick down ring gear turns the kick down planets. The kick down planets drive the out put shaft. The kick down planets also drive the kick down sun which in turn causes the kick down planets to spin slower. The kick down sun then spins the reverse sun. The reverse sun then spins the reverse planets. The reverse planets spin on their own but the reverse planet carrier is held from turning by the overruning clutch. The rotation of the reverse planets is transferred to the reverse ring gear and to the output shaft. As i said this is very confusing because the two planetary gear sets are working together to increase the gear ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEnGI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEnGI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Gear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go from first gear to second gear the kick down band is applied and it stops the kick down sun. This causes two things to happen. First, because the kick down sun is held it is no longer sapping rotational speed from the kick down planets and the gear ratio goes down. Second the reverse sun is also being held. This causes the reverse planet carrier to spin backwards. The spinning backwards is allowed by the overruning clutch which can only hold it going forward. The reverse planet carries now just free wheels and contributes nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtMYf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtMYf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third Gear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go to third gear the kick down band shuts off and the reverse clutch comes on. With both the front clutch and reverse clutch engaged at the same time the kick down ring and the kick down sun are spinning at the same rate. Because they are spinning at the same rate the kick down planets are not turning on their own axis. Instead the kick down planets are turning the kick down planet carrier and the output shaft. This whole assembly is now running at the same rate of 1:1 the lowest gear ratio of this transmission. The reverse planetary gear set free wheels just like in second gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wnO6z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wnO6z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reverse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reverse the reverse clutch and low reverse band are applied. This causes the power to go from the input shaft to the reverse sun. The reverse sun will turn the reverse planets and with the reverse planet carrier being held by the band the planets will spin backwards. The reverse ring now moving backwards turns the output shaft backwards. Because the kick down ring is not held the kick down planetary gear set just free wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jholst.net/60-service-manual/transmission.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Service manual reference.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T01:07:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25552" CreationDate="2016-02-01T01:54:42.140" Score="8" ViewCount="17052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of this component being used on Hot Rods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a blower?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it do?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there specific requirements for utilizing one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any disadvantages of using a blower?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T06:55:17.907" Title="What is a Blower?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|hotrod|custom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T04:12:17.667" Score="9" ViewCount="2147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of buying a used car and I'm having some difficulty estimating the longevity of vehicles I encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can speak of car longevity in different ways, but for this question let's consider only longevity in relation to mileage, and assume no major part replacement (ie. disregard cases like engine replaced after 50k miles, resulting 80k car with a 30k engine). I expect that miles-to-failure for a given model of car will have some sort of distribution with a pronounced mean (the naive expectation would be Poisson distribution). I am interested most in the median of this distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly manufacturers must have extensive data on such distributions for all of their cars. I imagine service professionals will be well acquainted with it as well. However I have not been able to find any standardized (ie. so that I can compare different car models), comprehensive (ie. has most cars, most models, most years, considers various customization options if they make a difference) set of data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanics I spoke to have only been able to give very vague answers (&quot;I've seen that car do 200-300k miles sometimes&quot;). Searching on the internet I've found only similarly unhelpful, anecdotal, imprecise answers. Marketing material from manufacturers doesn't seem to discuss this very much, and it's hard to find marketing material for older models anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a resource I can go to for such longevity statistics for cars by make, year of manufacture, model and trim? Ideally I would like to miles-to-failure by kind of failure (ie. which component breaks) but it would be sufficient if I just knew miles-to-failure until first major (ie. costly to repair) mechanical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is not to estimate how long a given car will last me, but to make an apples to apples comparison between 2 given cars to determine which one is farther along its typical lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T18:07:47.390" Title="Where can I find statistics regarding car life expectancies?" Tags="|maintenance|used|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25549" CreationDate="2016-02-01T08:26:10.290" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'Blower' is another name for a supercharger, particularly 'Roots' type superchargers that use long figure-of-8 shaped vanes to force or 'blow' air into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only 'specific requirements' are that the engine internals are strong enough to cope with the extra power and the fuel system can provide enough fuel to match the extra air from the blower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of performance, the only 'disadvantages' to using a blower is that it is belt driven from the crank. It uses some power from the crank to turn the blower, which is power that could otherwise be driving the wheels. This is, of course, offset by the fact the blower enables the engine to make much more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFyPN.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFyPN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11014/what-is-this-protrusion-on-this-dodge-charger-and-what-is-its-purpose/11015#11015&quot;&gt;Roots blowers are briefly described in this SE question.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T09:10:49.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25554" CreationDate="2016-02-01T08:26:43.167" Score="4" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may very well be just my imagination, but 3 months ago i decided i can do 30 miles per hour on 3rd gear and not shift to 4th. It didn't seam like the engine was under any extra stress or anything, it was doing 2400 rpm (an around 1850 on 4th). I'm driving a 2005 C4 so my on-board PC tells me how many miles more I can do with the fuel in the tank For the month I only ever used 3rd for 30 mph I did 350 miles, but every other month before, and the two after (that I was going all the way up to 4th gear) I've been getting solid 400 miles per full tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the question from the title: Is there correlation between fuel efficiency and preferred gear at 30 miles per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra info: I live in the UK, and always, always, always have my speed limiter ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T09:49:30.940" Title="Is there correlation between fuel efficiency and preferred gear at certain speed?" Tags="|efficiency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25553" CreationDate="2016-02-01T08:47:42.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two schools of though on this subject, at least in the UK. For the sake of fuel efficiency you should drive in the highest gear that your engine sounds happy with. At 30MPH in a 5 or 6 speed manual car that will probably be 4th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other school of thought (for the sake of road safety) is that if you stay in 3rd gear you are more likely to notice when your speed creeps up as the engine will be louder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T08:53:34.343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T08:53:34.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25553" CreationDate="2016-02-01T09:49:30.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by @Sam people have two different driving habits. The important point when the higher gear is required and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are driving in a highway or in the place where there is no need for any frequent change in speed you can go on higher gear with average speed is advisable. Kindly make sure to maintain the RPM not less than 1500 to avoid the damages to the engine /transmission /clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are driving in the city or in the traffic area, you need to drive in low gear in the same time do not exceed 2500rpm. If you exceed 2500rpm the engine will be overheated and consume more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this may help you to save fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T09:49:30.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25550" CreationDate="2016-02-01T10:11:41.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://good-garage-guide.honestjohn.co.uk/mot-results/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; from 'Honest John' shows the MOT pass rates (UK roadworthyness test) for various cars, broken down by make and model, and then by category (i.e. what failed), although they seem to be a couple of years old - 2013 being the most recent results. That's taken from the government database, so is likely to be the most comprehensive, at least from a UK perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of it depends on how well a car has been maintained, and how it's been used, more than what make it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T10:11:41.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25304" CreationDate="2016-02-01T11:20:00.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR : Planetary center differential with viscous coupling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;EDIT : This is wrt center differential transfer case and not traditional 4X4 transfer case , since the question is about torque biasing which precludes the latter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I understand that differentials are a huge topic and there are many clever solutions in the realm of torque biasing. I'l post one such solution more as a seed answer. Please edit and add details.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicyclic_gearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Planetary/epicyclic gearboxes&lt;/a&gt; , with the engine driving the Planet gears, the ring (outer sleeve?) connected to the rear differential and the sun gear connected to the front differential. This configuration allows for -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Our primary requirement of both the differentials needing to rotate at different speeds under normal use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Torque biasing - Depending on the tooth ratio's of the planetary, ring and sun gear, the desired ratio can be designed. (50:50 , 60:40 etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, however would still be limited by the maximum traction available in either of the front/rear differential.  In complete loss of traction, it would function just like an open differential at the center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be solved by having a viscous coupling (Fergusson Viscous Coupling) between the front and rear axles, that would in effect 'limit' the allowable slip between the two. &#xA;Electro-mechanical solutions are also used to control the viscous pressure to adapt the slip ratio (or degree of lock) as per requirement. &#xA;Other solutions use clutches.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Torsen center differentials employ worm gear principle to function as an LSD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T20:22:53.867" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T20:22:53.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:33:57.693" Score="3" ViewCount="14636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a retired 2000 GMC Savanna 250 with 225/75R16 tires that have plenty of tread, no signs of dry rot, and are only 3 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My newer vehicle is a 2009 Ford E350 extended, and it needs at least two new tires, these tires are older and have more wear. It is labeled for 245/75R16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put the 225 tires onto the E350 rims, would it change the safety/traction/reliability of the vehicle, and if so, how much?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the bolt patterns are the same, would using the rims and tires from the GMC change the answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastEditorUserId="3218" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T16:02:16.100" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:06:41.380" Title="Can I put 225/75R16 on a vehicle meant for 245/75R16?" Tags="|ford|tires|gmc|e350|van|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T13:22:36.907" Score="4" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to calculate the stopping distance of a car from an OBD2 device.&#xA;Say, I am driving at 30 kmph and apply my brakes hard. My car will skid and stop at a distance &quot;x&quot; meters from that point. This &quot;x&quot; meters is defined as the stopping distance of the car (@30kmph). But how do I calculate this stopping distance from an OBD device. When I apply the brakes (at max), the car engine stops to rotate and hence the OBD(reading from ECU) will start reading speed = 0. It will not read the speed of the car skidding. Hence I will never know that my car has skid from the OBD device. Any help please on how to calculate the braking distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_n-HIBnfts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; for a demo of braking distance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="13258" LastEditDate="2018-08-08T11:28:24.933" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T11:28:24.933" Title="Stopping distance of a car" Tags="|brakes|obd-ii|braking|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25570" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:01:48.960" Score="32" ViewCount="68969" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&quot;&gt;CAN&lt;/a&gt; (controller area network)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II&quot;&gt;OBD-II&lt;/a&gt; protocol and a CAN setup?`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I use an OBD-II scanner on a vehicle with CAN?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T21:20:17.373" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T04:39:02.100" Title="Difference between OBDII and CAN" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25150" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:24:24.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does the term A/R ratio mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all automotive applications that you are likely to see, turbos are a radial flow, snail shaped turbine section attached to a similar compressor section.  As we see in this illustration from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/air_turbocharger.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Turbocharger Fundamentals&lt;/a&gt;  article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZebX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZebX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of turbocharger from Dieselnet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How is it computed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dGmgz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dGmgz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garrett turbo illustration of A/R ratio&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbine_housing_AR_and_housing_sizing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cross-sectional Area to Radius ratio&lt;/a&gt; is a consequence of our desire to turn linear energy (the exhaust gasses coming out of the manifold) into radial energy (we need to spin those little wheels).  We need something that strongly resembles a funnel that has been stretched and twisted into a spiral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, look at the exhaust inlet: this is a relatively large fitting that accepts &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the exhaust gasses.  As the piping spirals into where the turbine wheel waits, the radius of each turn decreases. In order to preserve smooth flow, the cross-sectional area of that piping also decreases at a rate proportional to the decrease in area. The result is a constant A/R ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it just apply to turbos? If not, what else does it apply to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any radial flow blower, compressor, turbine or pump is likely to show a similar shape and, therefore, will also have a constant A/R ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why is it important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where things get fun: I get to be Mr. Wizard and we can do science. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this experiment, you will need three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thinnest stirring straw that you can still blow through. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A normal drinking straw. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A section of garden hose that you're willing to put your lips on. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, blow through the stirrer. Feel the airflow out the other end. It feels like a laser beam of air pressure, right?  You can focus it right on target, blowing small things around like grains of salt like crazy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now try the drinking straw. This doesn't feel as laser-like. You can still blow salt around but it's not as focused.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try blowing as hard as you can.  Great big poofs of salt flying around without difficulty, right?  Now try the stirrer again. Blow as hard as you can. Notice how the energy coming out seems to peak early even though your eyes are about to pop out of your head?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now try the garden hose. This is boring, right?  It feels like nothing special is coming out the other end. You can blow super hard without difficulty but also without any great rewards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this little experiment, we are using you and your straw of choice to stand in for the turbine section of the turbo and the grains of salt as the turbine itself.  The goals of the turbine side of the turbo are to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get that turbine wheel moving as soon as possible (we want boost at low revs). The small area stirrer illustrates this: it's easy to puff through that almost without effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep spinning that turbine as exhaust gas energy increases. The stirrer shows that a small area runs out of puff quickly. The larger  area straw does better. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid restricting the gas flow, acting as an exhaust bottleneck and restricting overall power. The garden hose is barely any restriction at all. The stirrer made your eyeballs pop out. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of thumb, a small A/R ratio is used to optimize low lag, low end boost while sacrificing high end boost. These are common on street cars today. A larger A/R ratio is used to optimize for peak, high end boost and is great for use at the track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:24:24.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25561" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:40:11.127" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD II is a US government mandated diagnostic interface. This interface is guaranteed to provide a specific set of information including but not limited to engine computer data and engine computer trouble codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When OBD II was rolled out the US government did not force the manufacturers to also standardize the communication interface to the engine computer. Early OBD II had at least a half dozen communication protocols. Later the US government realized their mistake mandated that at least the engine computer must support the CAN communication protocol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CAN communication protocol is one that is supported under the umbrella of OBD II. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your OBD II scanner supports CAN, some older ones that came out between OBD II and the CAN mandate do not support it, then there is no difference in use. The scanner will automatically choose what protocol to use, either by auto detecting the available protocol or when the make model and year is entered the scan tool will use what it knows is available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T21:54:39.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:54:39.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25559" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:27:03.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diameter is 4% smaller&#xA;Width is about 9% smaller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are going to a smaller tire...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The speedometer will read higher than your actual speed by about 4%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will not need to worry about rubbing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Traction may be less, but should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with tire pressure monitoring systems, so I cannot comment on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T15:27:03.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25559" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:06:41.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was pointed out, the outer diameter isn't quite the same, but it's not a major problem. The sole distinction I would be worried about would be load range. For example, an E350 van most likely wants to have a LT, E load rated set of tires installed. However, if the tires on your Savanna are P rated (i.e. not Light Truck), I would not install those on your Ford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:06:41.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25479" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:12:37.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have light surface rust, just driving around and using your brakes normally is a better way to clear it. If however the rust is pitting and flaking the rotors, you should just jump to Step B and replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:12:37.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1264" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:19:43.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can force a reluctant tire on with more pressure, most tires should seat with 15 PSI, and forcing a tire on at a higher PSI has a higher risk of damage and danger to those nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a tire won't seat at 15psi, examine the rim and tire, reapply lubricant liberally on the tire bead and wheel rim, and position the tire so it's as centered as you can get it, then attach to seat it again up to 15psi. You should always use an appropriate lubricant for this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need for a glue or sealant.  If the bead of the tire or the rim is damaged you need to replace the bad item - a sealant or glue is insufficient.  As long as the parts are in good shape, nothing other than a lubricant is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:19:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25561" CreationDate="2016-02-01T17:07:01.947" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, before I will answer your specific questions, let's do some introduction on bus systems. It could be that you know parts of these things, but I will start here as people with little or no IT or electronics knowledge should be able to understand this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bus Systems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In electronic systems signals are sent from one chip to another using wires (let's forget about wireless things for a second). The simplest way of doing so is to use one wire per bit of information you like to transmit. One bit of information is simply an answer to a yes/no question like &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Are the headlights on?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; If the headlights are on, there is a voltage on that wire, say 5 volts. If they are off there are 0 volts on the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that's fine for one bit of information. But more data requires more wires. Unfortunately: More wires means more complexity. &lt;strong&gt;A modern car is just a computer with tires on it&lt;/strong&gt;, so there are a lot of wires (&lt;em&gt;serveral km or miles&lt;/em&gt;) in it. More wires result in more weight and more costs and car manufacturers don't like that. So we need a way to reduce the amount of wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way of doing so is to use a &lt;strong&gt;bus system&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What is a bus system?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of a bus as a way to &lt;strong&gt;transmit more information using fewer wires&lt;/strong&gt;. There are other benefits of bus systems, but I will focus on this aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We want to switch four lamps on or off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Without bus system:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 1: +5 V on Wire1 = Lamp is on; 0 V on Wire1 = Lamp is off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 2: +5 V on Wire2 = Lamp is on; 0 V on Wire2 = Lamp is off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 3: ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 4: ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to see; we need one wire per lamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;With a bus system:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 1: +1 V on Wire1 (Selector), 0 or +5 V on Wire2 for on and off (switch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 2: +2 V on Wire1 (Selector), 0 or +5 V on Wire2 for on and off (switch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 3: +3 V on Wire1 (Selector), 0 or +5 V on Wire2 for on and off (switch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lamp 4: +4 V on Wire1 (Selector), 0 or +5 V on Wire2 for on and off (switch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this primitive kind of bus system we reduced the amount of wires to &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt;. Regardless of the number of lamps we like to control, we only need one wire to tell the other chip which lamp we like to switch and a second wire to tell it wether we like to have the lamp on or off. My example would have limits in the real world as one can't simply raise the voltage to 1000 V on Wire 1 to switch a thousand different lamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example shows, why in electronics in general and in cars in particular bus systems are being used. Cars use a number of bus systems that were made especially for them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LIN&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOST_Bus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOST&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FlexRay&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FlexRay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K-Line&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;K-Line&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is CAN (controller area network)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN is the most important bus system in a car. I won't go into detail on this point, just think of it as a way to transfer big amounts of data using only two wires. You can read more about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CAN on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;OBD-II&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the difference between an OBD-II protocol and a CAN setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD-II is a &lt;strong&gt;higher-level protocol&lt;/strong&gt; used for diagnostic purposes. OBD-II can use one of (many) different bus systems to transfer diagnostic data from and to your car. Think of OBD-II as a &lt;strong&gt;language&lt;/strong&gt; (English) that you speak and of CAN as the &lt;strong&gt;communication device&lt;/strong&gt; (telephone) you use to talk to someone (about your car and its state of health ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people are referring to OBD (short for on-board diagnosis) or OBD-II as &amp;quot;standards&amp;quot;. OBD-II is a standard, but it again consists of so many different standards, protocols and bus systems used to communicate that it's difficult to list all of them. I once made an overview graphic, and I will see if I can add that to my answer later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to use OBD-II scanner on a vehicle with CAN?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just plug it into the OBD-II port of your car. CAN is one of the transport protocols of the OBD-II specification and should be supported by most OBD-II-Scanners The location of the port can be found using a Google (image) search. Usually the port is &lt;strong&gt;located in reach of the driver&lt;/strong&gt;, e.g. &lt;strong&gt;under the dashboard&lt;/strong&gt; or hidden in the &lt;strong&gt;center console&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:33:11.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25536" CreationDate="2016-02-01T17:53:02.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple way to check that the compressor is working would be to try it out on your spare tire first. If you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T17:53:02.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25617" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:00:37.933" Score="5" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new BCM for a 2009 Infiniti FX50S. On installing new BCM, there was total blackout; no more ignition light. How can I programme the new BCM to work with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14762" LastEditorUserId="14762" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T18:46:22.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T22:24:17.017" Title="Installing new Body Control Module" Tags="|bcm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:41:27.703" Score="12" ViewCount="20870" Body="&lt;p&gt;When people talk about changing the shocks or struts, it's usually the front ones due to comfort, handling and safety reasons.  But what about the rear ones?  How much of a problem are worn out rear struts / shocks and what are the implications to comfort, handling and safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 26/4/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this video doesn't specifically answer the question, it's got some great info on the physics of springs / shocks and how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hGZRairqHNI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What's The Best Suspension - Soft or Stiff Springs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T08:03:48.280" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T12:30:43.127" Title="How Important Are the Rear Shocks / Struts" Tags="|suspension|safety|shock-absorber|struts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:56:29.230" Score="8" ViewCount="4588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am shopping for a used car (2006 Volvo XC90) and encountered the following situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car itself has odometer reading 110k miles. I intend to appraise and price at as if a 110k car. The seller claims that the car in fact has about 85k miles on it, but at one point the odometer failed, and was replaced with a used odometer (to save money) which at the time had 105k miles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner seems reasonably trustworthy and provided me with extensive records for the servicing of the car. An independent mechanic I spoke to said that he hadn't heard of such a thing, and they could not verify the &quot;true mileage&quot; of the car (beyond what the odometer says).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation by itself does not bother me. What concerns me is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I should treat this situation as a red flag indicative of other problems with the seller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if I manage to get the odometer fixed and correct the mileage, when I attempt to sell the car down the line, I will have to explain this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lack the expertise to judge this situation. Is it common for an incorrect odometer reading to come about like this? Is it a minor issue, or is it a serious problem? Is the story I was told by the seller plausible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T09:45:35.707" Title="Used odometer supposedly showing incorrect reading" Tags="|used|odometer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2016-02-01T19:43:36.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is, you have to take the seller at his word, and that's just not the way business transactions work.  He has an obvious incentive to sell the car with a lower mileage, and regardless of what a good guy he is, can't be trusted.  If you really like the car, and can't find something comparable from another seller, you might continue to press your luck with this guy, but one &quot;small issue&quot; seems to have a way of multiplying.  I would walk away.  There are too many scams out there to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your second point, there's no way of &quot;getting the mileage fixed&quot; based on what would then be only your word.  That's called fraud, and would be illegal.  If you did it and a buyer didn't notice, you'd be open for criminal charges.  If you tried to explain it, you would just be laughed at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the seller bought himself a very expensive instrument cluster, and that's his problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is all &lt;em&gt;primarily opinion based&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T19:43:36.603" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2016-02-01T19:53:11.263" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story is indeed plausible, and a quick google search indicates instrument clusters failures are not uncommon for that vehicle. As with any used car, I would have your mechanic inspect the car, though since it is a relatively small difference between claimed and displayed mileage, there really isn't a good way to disprove the sellers story. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seller has maintenance records, they should pretty clearly indicate a change in mileage around the time of the swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T19:53:11.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6131" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:03:54.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These are the exact jets and shims that you will need for your 1984 Honda Gold Wing GL1200&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;four Main jets size 118&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;four Pilot jets size 38 and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 shims for each Slide Needle, 2 shims per needle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will also need to the following&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Motion%20Pro%20D-Shaped%20Bit&amp;amp;oq=Motion%20Pro%20D-Shaped%20Bit&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D-Adjuster&lt;/a&gt; for fuel screw adjustment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legend&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;D-Adjuster for air/fuel on idle circuit&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pilot Jet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Main Jet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtnUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtnUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:03:54.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:16:17.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation could be Transmission Flare. The engine control briefly ups the RPM to match the transmission downshifting, to prevent an abrupt downshift feel. If the control or sensing systems are out of whack, it can overdo the RPM adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the items you replaced require adjustment or calibration. For example, the Idle Air Controller (a prime suspect here) requires some settings, just bolting it in might make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:16:17.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:33:10.707" Score="6" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixed a pulley tensioner and belt. Still a loud squeak and sound. Could it be bad pulley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....and 4WD worked when bought the truck. Now the light wont turn on and it seems that it doesn't shift into 4 hi. Checked the transfer case. I'm getting little vacuum. Could it be vacuum or lines? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14767" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T08:18:50.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T08:18:50.763" Title="Persistent squeak and transmission issues" Tags="|noise|dodge|ram|pulley|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2016-02-01T20:46:45.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem, no start but had headlights, wipers, horn, etc.  starter and battery were good. long story short, remove the ground strap/wire between the engine and body and scrape the paint off down to bare metal on the body and make SURE all connections are clean. reinstall and problems solved. Gotta have a GOOD ground between vehicle body and engine. Remember running gear is mounted on rubber mounts. Good luck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14769" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:46:45.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2252" CreationDate="2016-02-01T21:39:26.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case of erratic no start, try this as we had the same problem.  Inside electricals worked, we had horn, headlights, wipers, radio, etc. But starter just clicked as though there was dirty terminal ends or possible dead cell in battery. Jumping with another vehicle did not make any difference. Long story short. Battery was fine and starter bench tested perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine to vehicle body strap/wire/cable looked good but where it attaches to the body is painted from the factory. Scrape the paint and primer off down to bare metal and reinstall, problem solved. Remember the running gear is mounted on rubber mounts and the starter draws many more amps than lights, etc. &lt;strong&gt;Good grounds&lt;/strong&gt; are extremely important to make things work proper especially a starter. Cured our intermittent problem fast and no parts required, just some hard knocks trouble shooting and labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14769" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T22:24:32.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T22:24:32.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25547" CreationDate="2016-02-01T21:47:39.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced the same symptoms on an engine, where the MAF sensor was giving lower than expected readings.  The engine would only run for a few seconds before stalling.  A new MAF sensor fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested my MAF on the bench with a hair dryer and a multimeter.  It wasn't until I got a replacement that I could see how low a reading the faulty one was giving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T21:53:04.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:53:04.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25597" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:28:33.877" Score="14" ViewCount="36917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/25489/14003&quot;&gt;a question about the speedometer&lt;/a&gt;, how it works and how accurate it is. But that got me thinking... how does the rest of the dash actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the RPM measurement is a measure of the rotational speed of a mechanical component (the crankshaft) with respect to time (in minutes), partly thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revolutions_per_minute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this source from Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How does the tachometer actually work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some sort of sensor in the crankcase that can count each rotation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how does that work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the data recorded from whatever it is that records the data get displayed on the dash? Electrical or mechanical signal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the tachometer needle calibrated to move the right amount and point to the correct number (rather than just spin round in a circle or not move at all)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; Answers can exclude fancy dashboards such as the new Audi &quot;cockpit&quot; dashboard because that's clearly just a computer running bespoke software on an unusually shaped computer monitor. I want answers to explain information about the traditional, needle based tachometer found in the majority of cars (as far as I am aware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T16:29:35.157" Title="How does the tachometer on my dashboard actually work?" Tags="|car|engine-theory|sensor|rpm|tachometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:30:03.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many states upon transfer the title is supposed to record the fact that the odometer doesn't show actual mileage. You can expect this will adversely impact the value of the car in the future, regardless of how believable you find the seller's explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, whatever he saved with a used instrument cluster is now offset by the impairment that may be required (depending on the state) on the title. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T22:30:03.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25586" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:58:35.660" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T22:58:35.660" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T22:58:35.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25587" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T22:58:35.660" Score="0" Body="A very rapid moving back and forth of an engine part or piece of vehicle body or chasis." OwnerUserId="22022" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T12:38:11.243" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T12:38:11.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T23:08:41.427" Score="6" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;2010 Jeep Patriot FD2 4x4 38,000 miles &#xA;Well maintained vehicle with low mileage. Excessive vibration noticed beginning 6 months ago. Have changed spark plugs, air filter, Premium gas used with double cans of fuel injector over three tank fill ups, throttle valve inspected and cleaned with Seafoam, motor mounts and transmission mounts inspected: all without improvement. Two separate repair shops have given up on finding the cause. Car runs great on the road but has vibration in idle while at stop in Drive. Vibration worse when sitting on an incline regardless of whether in Drive or Neutral. Great car except for this issue.  Have spent a lot of money chasing this with no results. What next? Compression Test, Coils replaced, ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14770" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T23:08:41.427" Title="Vibration felt, heard and seen when in Drive at stop but disappears when shifted to Neutral" Tags="|idle|vibration|drive-cycle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-09T08:20:46.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2016-02-01T23:18:34.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two answers to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, radiators are completely optional on engines. Air cooled engines have existed for a very long time. The function of the radiator on these engines is replaced by cooling fins to extract the heat and release it into the air, and they also have oil coolers as well to carry out the heat. However, if your car was designed to require a radiator, you really do need one. There is no benefit to removing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you CAN run a water cooled car without a radiator, but it is risky and requires you to shut down the car whenever it gets above normal operating temperature and let it cool off via convection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a big container of water (like a cooler with an electric pump in the trunk or passenger area) you can pump water into the engine and instead of it flowing out into a radiator, you can pump that water back in to the cooler. It will eventually become boiling hot, at which point you must stop operating the car and either wait for it to become cool again or empty out the cooler and refill it from an external source of water like a hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a big enough reservoir of coolant, you can cover pretty significant distances with this approach, but it requires that you keep the engine's water passages  completely filled (so the coolant temperature sensor is covered in circulating water) and you have an accurate temperature sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you just seal off the coolant hoses and only operate the car with the water inside the engine, it will run safely until it becomes hot. At this point, you either shut it off and wait for it to get cold again or you keep driving and kill the engine. If you keep driving, your engine will be in serious trouble. The heads will warp, the head gaskets will blow and the oil will probably lose some of it's lubricating qualities. Whether the bearings coke up or the heads crack first is really dependent on the design of the engine, but you really don't want to drive the car like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the less coolant you have in the engine, the faster it will heat up. The block itself has little thermal inertia compared to the water and the heat output of even small engines is extremely high. Gasoline engines typically generate kilowatts of energy, a significant portion of which (about 2/3rds) is lost as heat. A good portion of that is dumped into the coolant. Also, if you use water instead of anti-freeze mix, the engine will take longer to heat up, as water has much higher specific heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T23:25:30.487" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T23:25:30.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T23:20:41.117" Score="1" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey that only drives in neutral; no reverse or forward. What do you think is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14773" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T18:23:09.977" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T18:23:09.977" Title="Honda oydessy year 2000 does not go in reverse does not go forward but you can drive it in netural" Tags="|automatic-transmission|odyssey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-03T14:18:41.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25605" CreationDate="2016-02-01T23:23:45.640" Score="10" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, is there any reason why some coolant bottles are shaped in this way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eZHM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eZHM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, if this coolant bottle was placed on its side such as in the image below for example would coolant still circulate with the return pipe submerged under water? In other words is there any reason why the coolant return is placed at the top of the bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't panic I’m not getting any wild ideas of placing my expansion bottle on its side it is for a different project I am building to cool a series of GPU's (not related to cars) however the cooling system will be the same to that of a car as the pump will be a centrifugal impeller and the system will be pressurised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRjf8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRjf8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested in all input to this subject thank you all for your time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please excuse the poor drawing in paint but i don't have time to draw something extravigant in CAD. one last thing the cap will be above coolant level to release excess pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T11:47:08.923" Title="Coolant Reservoir" Tags="|engine|coolant|cooling-system|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25594" CreationDate="2016-02-02T00:40:48.317" Score="6" ViewCount="17565" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having one tire replaced, and the tires rotated, drove out of the shop immediately to a grrr (rubbing/grinding) sound momentarily, once per tire rotation.  I noticed the &quot;back&quot; tires have pretty low clearance to their encasing, perhaps there's something wrong there? (the front ones are kind of worn on the inside rim, as well, maybe its just a &quot;normal wear&quot; pattern issue)?  It sounds as if the tread is being worn away but if I get above like 30 it sounds like my tires going to disintegrate ;|&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T11:52:43.090" Title="what could cause a scraping noise after tire rotation" Tags="|tires|wheels|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25593" CreationDate="2016-02-02T00:40:48.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;After taking it back to the shop, the tech. diagnosed it as &quot;the new back tire inside rim wheel weights are rubbing&quot; (apparently they didn't rub when those tires were in the front).  So rebalance the rear wheels (i.e. new wheel weights) and I'm back in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: got this again at a different date, even after doing a balancing.  I just told the guy about it and he &quot;did something&quot; (bent them in more) and it works.  Guess there's not a lot of clearance in my vehicle (Accord) for rear inside wheel weights...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T11:52:43.090" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T11:52:43.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-02-02T00:45:55.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is the amount of force exerted by your engine at a particular RPM. In two cars with equal gearing and in the same gear, a car making twice as much torque will accelerate exactly twice as fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower is calculated from torque and RPM. A given amount of torque at a low RPM equals less horsepower than the same amount of torque at a higher RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower is important because the amount of force that reaches the rear wheels to accelerate the vehicle is a combination of torque and &lt;strong&gt;gearing&lt;/strong&gt;. Generally speaking, the higher a car revs, the more tightly it can be geared. The more tightly you gear a car, the faster it accelerates for a given amount of torque. Since horsepower represents a combination of torque and RPM, it's actually a pretty good indication of how most cars with well chosen transmission ratios will accelerate.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take an extreme example, let's say we have an extremely high revving engine (like a formula 1 engine). It makes 250 ft lbs of torque, but it maintains that torque until a peak horsepower of 20k RPM, making nearly 800 hp. On the other hand, we have an engine with lots of displacement but a relatively low redline. Let's say that this hypothetical torquey car makes peak torque of 600 ft lbs and revs to 6k rpm, making just over 600 hp. Note that the car with more hp is making significantly less torque. In first gear, let's say that the high-revving car is geared three times as tightly as the torquey car- the high revving car will be at 60mph and 18000 rpm while the torquey car will be at 6000 rpms at 60mph. This makes the high revving car actually put down more wheel torque in this gear, so it will accelerate faster. And since it still has another 2000 rpm of engine speed left when the torquey car runs out of rpm, it will continue to accelerate past 60mph in first gear while the other car is shifting. And the same drama will be repeated in the higher gears as well- the higher HP car will generally be accelerating faster because it can afford to stay in lower gears which can afford to be geared more tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing- that's why horsepower is important. Tight gearing means that a car has to rev higher to achieve a given road speed. Long gearing means that the car doesn't have to rev as high to go a certain speed. The tradeoff is acceleration. So first gear in most cars is very tight, ending before 30 mph in many small cars. On the other hand, the overdrive gear is meant to offer very poor acceleration but it allows the car to maintain nearly idle RPM at highway speeds, saving gas. Also, otherwise identical cars can have different final drive ratios, which will affect their overall acceleration and top speed. So a car with a 3.00 rear ratio will accelerate more slowly to a higher top speed than the same car with a 4.10 rear ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T14:58:10.147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T14:58:10.147" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25610" CreationDate="2016-02-02T02:10:14.993" Score="8" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a used Honda Accord with leather seating. I'm not necessarily a car enthusiast, but I would be interested in knowing the minimum I should do to keep the interior in good condition. I have looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4229/recommendations-as-to-how-to-seal-or-protect-brand-new-leather-seats/4231#4231&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; where it mentions cleaning the leather. Is this just with normal soap and water, or is there a particular cleaner I need to use? Also I have heard people mention using leather moisturizer and I was wondering if that is necessary and (if so) how often it should be applied. Mainly I am just interested in any general information necessary for someone who has never had to care for leather seats before. I know there is quite a bit of information on this online, but I am more interested to get true advice and not a sales pitch. Thank you for any advice you can give. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14776" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T17:29:57.427" Title="Minimum Care of Leather Interior" Tags="|honda|maintenance|accord|interior|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25584" CreationDate="2016-02-02T02:10:40.237" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;While i'm not sure if there are mechanical tachometers like speedometers electronic tachometers are quite simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electronic tachometer works like an old analog volt meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OmxP5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OmxP5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed of the engine is converted to a voltage. The voltage is fed to the moving coil. The coil creates a magnetic field. That field of the coil tries to align itself with the magnetic field of the magnets. This causes coil to move against the spring deflecting the needle. By combining input voltage, the number of turns in the moving coil, the strength of the magnet and the strength of the spring a ratio is achieved that the needle will deflect a number of degrees per volt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electronic ignitions turn the ignition coil on and off in pulses to create the spark. These pulses directly correlate to how fast the engine is turning. For example a V8 will have four pulses per revolution. These pulses are converted to a voltage with a frequency to voltage converter. There are discrete circuits or stand alone chips that can preform this action. For example GM HEI ignitions commonly tie into the signal wire to the ignition coil to get the RPM reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pulses were, like in the GM HEI, generated by the ignition module from input of the pick up coil in the distributor. In these systems the timing is controlled an entirely in analog fashion. Fly weights and a vacuum advance control the timing in the distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ignition systems became more complex the pick up coil was replaced by a crankshaft position sensor and the fly weights / vacuum advance were replaced by a computer. Eventually instead of getting the pulses from the coil the signal came directly from the computer. Even to this day the basic structure and operation of the physical needle in the dash has remain effectively the same, the difference being only where the signal comes from and how the signal arrives at the dash board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the engine computer knows the RPM digitally, in digital dashboards the engine computer sends the information to the dashboard over the network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T02:10:40.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2016-02-02T07:25:02.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about Volvos, but speaking as a former Saab Automobile engineer I'd say there's a good chance the correct odometer reading is stored elsewhere in the car (in another ECU). A Volvo technician should be able to figure it out. Also, it's VERY hard to &quot;fix&quot; the odometer. Close to impossible, in fact. You'd most likely have to buy a new one (which is what the current owner should have done, really). I'd keep shopping if I were you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14778" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T07:25:02.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T08:09:11.203" Score="3" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the cooling system hoses, Freon I believe, broke off. I capped both ends. Is it safe to drive? Also, there's a noise near the front driver side tire, like a rubbing sound. The car decelerates rather quickly after releasing gas pedal? What might be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14779" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T11:40:48.160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T18:37:04.407" Title="Late 90 Honda Civic cooling system hose broke off ,is it safe to drive?" Tags="|honda|civic|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4389" CreationDate="2016-02-02T08:53:28.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same symptoms. I fixed it by rotating the front wheel freely by hand and cleaning the brake pads with a jet of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14782" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:29:24.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:29:24.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2016-02-02T09:45:35.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, you can use the registration number of a vehicle along with the manufacturer and obtain a complete MOT history which includes mileage readings.  If you have something similar where you are, try doing this.  You would be looking for consistent mileage increases which approach but do not exceed 80k miles.  Then you would observe a jump.  Possibly accompanied by a previous failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my cars has this same issue.  It's a 1997 Golf which is indicating 95k miles.  When we purchased it, it was indicating 55k miles.  However, the seller explained that at some point in the past, the instrument cluster had failed and replaced.  The history of the car and mileages recorded at each service back this up.  The car is closer to 150k but the clocks obviously would lead you to believe otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T09:45:35.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25600" CreationDate="2016-02-02T10:54:05.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubbing sound is likely a seized brake caliper.  It is highly likely that the cheapest option will be to have the caliper replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car decelerates quickly, like you say, then it is not safe to drive.  The brake and surrounding components will be getting hot.  This could lead to a seized bearing and possible sudden failure.  The heat buildup could also cause the brake fluid to boil, which could then cause a drop in brake performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning leak should not be a problem, if that really is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T18:37:04.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T18:37:04.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25592" CreationDate="2016-02-02T11:47:08.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular bottle is knows as a degas bottle. The reason it has a strange shape is two fold. First, the bottle needs to fit somewhere and the shape helps that. Second and more important is that these degas bottles hold pressure. The shape reinforces the bottle so that it does not explode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cooling systems with degas bottles the coolant does not circulate through the bottle. The engine feed line connects to the lowest part of the engine and the &quot;return&quot; line connects to the highest point in the engine. This helps to fill the engine with coolant. As coolant is added to the bottle it flows to the lowest point in the engine. The air then escapes out the highest point in the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your plan will work with only one stipulation. These degas tanks tend to have separators inside. If the feed and return sides have a separator that is higher than the cap the system may overflow. A practical test may be in order. Here is another crappy picture as an example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJnfA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJnfA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Another crappy picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T11:47:08.923" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25508" CreationDate="2016-02-02T13:03:58.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly used to be possible to damage the mechanism. .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago, on my 1979 Renault 5, I managed to break the self cancellation mechanism just as you describe.  A small nub on the steering column snapped off and the indicators never self cancelled again.  The nub in question released a spring clip on the indicator stalk to enable it to return to the central position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my current 1976 VW something similar happened and the indicators now self cancel if I turn left, but not if I turn right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on all the other cars I have owned, no damage seems to have been inflicted.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is much less, if any, sensation of pressure on my hand from the indicator stalk on modern cars while straightening the wheel.  So I suspect the cancellation is either achieved magnetically or the mechanics are much more robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, I don't often hold the stalk down but there are a couple of odd junctions near home where cancelling can give the wrong impression to oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T13:03:58.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17976" CreationDate="2016-02-02T16:58:14.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue got resolved in next service. The problem was the with the rotor. Front wheel rotor was touching the caliber causing too much resistance. On close observation it seemed that rotor its shape after a bike fall lately. Replaced it with a flat new rotor and was able to drive 420 kms in full tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T16:58:14.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T17:28:11.283" Score="4" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low beam doesn't work. High beam will work, but cuts off and then on again. Also, if related, the switch must be jiggled for the interior dash lights to work. Could all of the problem be in the switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14791" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T17:32:20.413" Title="1994 GMC Rally 3500 Low Beam out, High beam works intermittently" Tags="|troubleshooting|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25596" CreationDate="2016-02-02T17:29:57.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two things you mentioned will help keep your leather looking good for a long time. I had leather seats and never did any maintenance and they began to dry and crack after several years. So the leather moisturizer is a very good idea.You can get several flavors of this from auto parts places. I have no data on which ones are better. Without this you will start to get cracking and once that happens the leather is already dry and it's very hard to bring back. So I would recommend you do this before you start to notice the cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the leather will help avoid grinding dirt and debris (small stones, salt and pepper if you eat in the car, etc) from scarring the leather. The small particles act like sandpaper and score the finish. Keeping them clean prevent this. Any automotive leather cleaner should be fine for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T17:29:57.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25609" CreationDate="2016-02-02T17:32:20.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely two separate circuits, and two separate issues. Your interior lights, as you pointed out, work when you jiggle the switch. So, if you pull the switch out, and connect the wires directly, does the interior light stay on constant? If so, it's the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the headlights: Stupid, obvious, obligatory question: You've tried replacing the bulbs? One of the filaments can completely burn out, leaving the high beams to work fine. And maybe that filament is making a partial connection occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, you've got a power lead with a poor connection, possibly even at the head light fixture (hopefully there, since anything else is going to require a bit of detective work on the wiring harness.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T17:32:20.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25591" CreationDate="2016-02-02T17:48:23.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ᴘᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 said, this appears to be a known issue with Honda Odyssey Model Years 1999-2001. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Odyssey_(North_America)#Transmission_issues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt; for this set of model years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 4-speed automatic transmission in 1999 to 2001 models had serious&#xA;  problems with transmission durability. Honda spokesman Mike Spencer&#xA;  stated that four-speed models were afflicted with a bad bearing that&#xA;  could break apart, scattering fragments of metal that clogged fluid&#xA;  passageways in the transmission, causing it to shift erratically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T17:48:23.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-02-02T19:56:06.463" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Torque is work, horsepower is work &lt;em&gt;rate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of engines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Torque indicates how &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; load an engine can carry for a certain distance in a certain amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Power indicates how &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the engine can move that load over that distance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things that may help to explain the difference between the two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Torque is what accelerates a vehicle from standstill&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;▲ Torque = ▲ Acceleration&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &lt;em&gt;standstill&lt;/em&gt; is very important here, because it is the only time where the aerodynamic drag forces will not limit a vehicle's straight-line acceleration. This is also why torque has a dominant effect at lower speeds - the drag forces are relatively small.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Torque does work; it pulls loads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have two identical vehicles in a tug-of-war competition with two different engines that develop the same maximum horsepower, but at different engine speeds. The vehicle with the lower engine speed will have more torque at the wheels than the other. This will also be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/k62gW3Se5e0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;engine that wins&lt;/a&gt; the tug-of-war competition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Peak horsepower will govern top speed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = Resistive Forces x Vehicle Speed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower is just a unit of measure for power, or work rate, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;▲ Horsepower = ▲ Top Speed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T17:40:42.373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T17:40:42.373" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T20:21:57.173" Score="6" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having an issue where while testing circuits for the offending drain, I will see NO drain for about 30 seconds and then a 6-9 amp drain for about 10; rinse and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anybody have an idea what components could cause such a pattern?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 97 Toyota Camry in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14793" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T23:19:52.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T23:19:52.953" Title="Help with Strange Intermittent yet predictable parasitic battery drain?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|battery|camry|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25614" CreationDate="2016-02-02T21:31:14.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the drain is very repeatable, connecting an ammeter in series with the battery and disconnecting each fuse in turn is a good idea as @jphil1618 suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could find that the problem is associated with multiple fuses, for example it could be the fuel pump that is running (I know you would hear the pump) and while pulling the fuel pump fuse will stop the pump running, it could be the fact that the engine ECU is still powered up and is switching the fuel pump on and off.  The ECU may have its own fused supply that is actually causing the problem.  So don't stop testing at the first fuse you find that stops the drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post details of what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T22:28:42.377" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T22:28:42.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25118" CreationDate="2016-02-02T21:50:26.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the title question, no. I've worked in several automotive retail outlets and have never seen an automotive battery not precharged. They may exist, but it would be an odd sight to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive batteries are very frequently purchased and installed in the same transaction. The batteries in which you need to put in the electrolyte, you also need to charge them for several hours. This would prove very impractical and annoying to the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is due to the rate at which these smaller batteries are sold. Motorcycle and lawn equipment batteries are often sold less frequently, and may end up sitting on a shelf for a very long time. Once the battery is given its first charge, its lifetime begins. If it ends up sitting for too long, the customer will have a battery that may not last as long as if they had bought it and charged it themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may also point out that the &lt;strong&gt;most common&lt;/strong&gt; lawn and garden batteries I've seen are filled and pre-charged, though the warranty is usually only a 3 months (just the summer season), and many customers end up buying a new battery every year. The durability does not seem to be very high compared to their larger cousins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just a side-note, some customers will look through the rack of compatible batteries and pick out the newest manufactured battery (it's usually stamped or stickered onto the case) in order to get the longest lifetime out of their purchase. I've seen similar actions done with tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1412" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:50:26.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25572" CreationDate="2016-02-02T22:01:54.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initializing a BCM for your vehicle requires a special Nissan dealership tool.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a theft prevention measure in order to thwart criminals from plugging in a BCM and stealing the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BCM contains information related to digital key security related to the key fob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BCM has a serial number that would be required to be entered into the initialization device which then issues a PIN you put into a software application that will initialize the BCM for the first time.  Following initialization and installation a new fob would need to be associated with the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You will need to goto an Infiniti or Nissan dealership or a shop that has the appropriate tools to perform this task.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adusa.us/attachments/File/Updated_NISSAN_FOR_WEB-3-1-13.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF explaining the procedure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T22:24:17.017" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T22:24:17.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24402" CreationDate="2016-02-02T23:08:04.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar symptoms in my '97 Civic: ran great when cold, tough to start when engine was hot, engine would stall under load (getting going from a stop), but would also have an intermittent rough idle. After replacing several coolant sensors and a fuel filter, I ended up having to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and coil pack to solve the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason was because, as I'm sure you know, higher heat = higher electrical resistance. The engine would get enough spark to cold-start, and was turning fast enough to keep rotating if it didn't get enough spark to fire, but had too much resistance when the engine was hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T23:08:04.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25644" CreationDate="2016-02-02T23:45:45.700" Score="3" ViewCount="3616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a vvt 1349 code on my 2001 Toyota Carolla. I have noticed a sharp decrease in fuel economy. Some people have reported that the oil control valve may be causing the issue. The oil control valve can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV8aWhHpYEk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;be seen in this video&lt;/a&gt;. Other have suggested that the oil control valve's filter (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnbJ6-nc6Oo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seen in this video&lt;/a&gt;) could be causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my mechanic looked up the code he said this could cost upwards of $2000. I think the best first step here is to examine the oil control valve, the associated filter, and the cam sensor. My mechanic says he needs to plug his computer into my car to do some diagnostics before he moves forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can do to prepare for this visit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, besides the oil control valve, associated filter, and cam sensor, could be causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14796" LastEditorUserId="14796" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T01:51:36.647" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:44:01.733" Title="Response to 2001 Toyota Carolla vvt code 1349: what should I do?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|corolla|electronic-control-module|code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T01:51:47.397" Score="5" ViewCount="2487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what kind of distributor this is? I'm specifically trying to find out what the timing specs are. I was told it is electronic. I had a mechanic a while back tell me it needed to have significantly more advance than the &quot;normal&quot; kind. I currently suspect the shop set the timing for this one to the timing for that on typical air cooled bugs. (mine's a 1968).&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qtWj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qtWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:53:17.647" Title="VW Beetle Distributor Identification/Timing Specs" Tags="|vw|beetle|distributor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T02:40:13.320" Score="7" ViewCount="15310" Body="&lt;p&gt;My neighbor just told me that his mechanic informed him that leaving a car parked long term not only effects the battery, but can also deteriorate the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery having issues makes sense to me, especially in cold weather as they were presumably discussing. But I can't understand the alternator going bad from lack of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that in fact possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7217" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T11:34:51.097" Title="Can long term parking affect alternator?" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25621" CreationDate="2016-02-03T05:56:51.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of as a response is Copper. Copper is used in alternators to house a spinning magnet. This creates electricity to power your car. The only problem I can foresee is how easily copper is affected by weather. &#xA;Copper will oxidize and create a green coat. This oxidation can impede its ability to harness/(assist in creation) electricity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes years thou in normal circumstances; not just a year&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T01:16:10.577" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T01:16:10.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3609" CreationDate="2016-02-03T07:42:42.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two factors to be considered on this matter; chemical aging and mechanical aging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the tires are made chemical compounds, chemical properties of the tires are changing with time. Grip level is decreasing due to the ultraviolet light from the Sun, heat and other environmental factors. For me a brand new tire produced 3 years ago is old enough to not considering it as a &quot;new&quot; tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical factors are well explained by other people here so no need to repeat those wear/tear issues again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A potential mistake could be evaluating tires with just mechanical conditions that you can observe from outside. It is crucial to consider &quot;age&quot; of the tire. Check the manufacturing date, cracks and evidence of chemical wear. Old tires tend to slide easily even though they are looks fine from outside (teeth depth etc.) due to decreased grip level (or stickiness if you prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T07:42:42.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2016-02-03T08:05:12.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends whether you like understeering or oversteering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think understeering is more preferable over the other due to thing needs to be done to gain the steering control is simpler; slow down. Correcting/recovering the oversteer with over 1000 degree turn steering wheels nearly impossible. You need to be quick as a snake :) to introduce correcting maneuver in right time with right amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, more grip on the rear is good idea in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T08:05:12.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16753" CreationDate="2016-02-03T08:47:29.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it is not a general rule that tires are lose some pressure every month. Temperature changes creates pressure difference most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every 5.6 degree Celsius (10 F) equals 1 PSI. &#xA;So, 32 PSI at hot summer day easily becomes 30 PSI when its get colder vice versa..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Consider the temperature of the tire itself, ie. check them when they cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T08:47:29.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25631" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:12:57.873" Score="37" ViewCount="80044" Body="&lt;p&gt;When one wants to park a manual transmission (MTX) vehicle, one puts it in neutral, and engages the emergency / parking brake.  With an ATX vehicle, the practice I've learned is to put it in Park, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; engage the parking brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I need to engage the parking brake, then what exactly is the purpose of selecting Park?  What does selecting Park do and how does it differ from selecting neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T16:33:49.537" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T11:24:47.013" Title="What's the Purpose of Park on an Automatic Transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:29:00.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends vehicle specs, road conditions and driving habits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock absorbers are not carry the weight of the car, they are basically dampers. They restrict the amount of movement. In case of bump they compress and allow certain amount of resistance to slow down the movement. In rebound, basically the same function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, without them, related wheel tend to bounce in case of wheel hit a bump. Some of that movement could be transferred to the chassis dependent to the situation. Tire contact could be problematic on rough surfaces and this tend to lead difficult handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without rear shocks;&#xA;1 - Understeer can occur due to soft rear end. Too soft rear could lead to weight transfer to the rear end (even though roll bar still attached) and could  result decreased grip on front end (inside wheel especially during cornering).&#xA;2 - Abnormal tire wear could be expected in long term use.&#xA;3 - Depend to the road conditions it could be uncomfortable ride for passengers.&#xA;4 - RWD drivers could expect easy corner exit but difficult turn-in. FWD drivers also could experience more frequent power steering during exiting the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In overall, depending to the car, road and driver, handling characteristics of the car will be changed due to the weight transfer issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T13:29:00.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24137" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:07:25.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - Battery voltage is ok&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - ignition voltage comes to the spark plugs (remove one of the s.plug caps and hold it close to a metal surface on the engine and ask your friend to crank the engine to see if spark exist) If there is no spark, refer to the car manual (ignition system wiring drawings) to see related fuse/relay/diodes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - pressurized fuel exists just before the injectors. Normally it needs to be check with pressure indicator but still you can check if fuel exist in the pressure line (there should be a small valve similar to the tire valves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - Remove spark plugs to check their conditions (carbon build, proper gap, wet etc..) Dry and clean them and install back if they are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 - Still no luck, check visually the timing belt if its seems intact/ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 - Still all checks ok and engine is not starting, crank it more while pressing the accelerator (let say 30 seconds). Rest few minutes and try again. Engine may be choked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:07:25.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24785" CreationDate="2016-02-03T14:30:21.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience on similar situation. It was -20 degree Celsius and engine was choked on my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As people indicated your problem could be the fuel pump. Trapped water (ice)  inside the gas tank can cause failure of the pump. You may need to check if fuel pressure is ok on the engine side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may help.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24137/fiat-punto-wont-start-fuel-light-three-warning-lights-flashing/25628#25628&quot;&gt;Fiat Punto Wont Start. Fuel Light &amp;amp; Three warning lights flashing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T14:30:21.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25626" CreationDate="2016-02-03T15:21:31.287" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an automatic transmission there is a ring with teeth on the output shaft of the transmission. When the transmission is shifted into park a lever called the parking pawl is lowered against the ring. If the parking pawl did not land squarely into an opening in the ring the car will roll slightly and there will be a usually an audible click. The parking pawl now holds the output shaft from turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vje40.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vje40.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Automatic transmission showing parking pawl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the engine running an automatic transmission is effectively in neutral in any gear except park. Theoretically with park engaged also applying the parking brake is not necessary unless the car is on a big hill because the parking pawl has more than enough strength to hold the car from rolling. It is a good idea to exercise the parking brake on a car with an automatic so the system does not freeze up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. In a manual it is suggested to place the car in first gear or reverse then engage the parking brake and for good measure curb the wheels. In the event that the parking brake fails (more common than the parking paw) the engine with the sub one gear ratio will hold the car. The good measure of curbing the wheels will roll the car into the curb in the case that the engine can't hold the car from rolling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T10:49:30.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T10:49:30.623" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17059" CreationDate="2016-02-03T15:40:25.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or could be your mass airflow sensor because I have similar issues and that is what's wrong with my car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14805" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T15:40:25.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T15:57:30.087" Score="6" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Peugeot 307 and the passenger side ABS sensor had recorded a fault (after an expensive Diagnostics) so I replaced both rear sensors now there is an ABS fault on both rear wheels communication error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The garage that has done the DIAG for me said it could be the wheel bearings but if there was no fault on the drivers side and there now this would point to a Sensor Fault, would it not?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage wants to charge me £220 to replace bearings.  I'm of the beleif that they don't need to.  Would you all agree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any known problem with spurious ABS sensors on Peugeot 307's?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS Sensor : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/252177475774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/252177475774&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33022" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T00:41:24.087" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:58:18.227" Title="Rear ABS Sensors Peugeot 307" Tags="|sensor|peugeot|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25638" CreationDate="2016-02-03T17:12:58.970" Score="5" ViewCount="1991" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a physics forum, and as such I don't expect answers to explain &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faraday%27s_law_of_induction#Maxwell.E2.80.93Faraday_equation&quot;&gt;Faraday's law of induced emf&lt;/a&gt; (electromotive force), which is the basic physics principle behind how an alternator is able to change mechanical energy (from the cam belt or chain) in to electrical energy that is needed in any modern car for many reasons. This works basically by creating a change in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_flux&quot;&gt;magnetic flux&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiKH48EMgKE&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; has a relatively good explainaton of the alternator and slip rings as I understand them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are slip rings with respect to a cars alternator?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is their purpose in the alternator?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are they able to rotate freely without getting the wires all tangled up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they even rotate or are they fixed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the slip rings will be positively charged and the other will be negative. I assume that they are made of some sort of metal or alloy so as to conduct a current through the alternator (do correct me if I'm wrong here) but bearing this in mind;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are the slip rings insulated or kept separate so as to avoid a short circuit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:46:52.343" Title="What are slip rings with respect to a cars alternator?" Tags="|electrical|car|alternator|belt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25011" CreationDate="2016-02-03T17:36:45.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually with modern engines, they can and do come on after startup. I think the reasons are spelled out fairly well in this article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/01/diesel-engine-glow-plugs-not-just-for-starting-anymore/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engine Builder Magazine&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The government wanted to reduce the amount of diesel hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxide levels being emitted from diesel engines. Now, this is where the importance of the glow plugs comes in. Not only do the glow plugs cycle to aid the engine during cold weather start up, but also after the engine is cranked – they will continue to cycle to reduce the amount of start-up emissions. This helps reduce the smoke that most diesel engines produce when being cranked on cold mornings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate, they come on after engine startup to reduce emissions and smoke. The combustion chamber will not immediately come up to temperature after startup. It takes a while for things to get heated, like the heads, cylinder walls, and most importantly, the cooling system. Once these things are warmed up, emissions are where they should be and the glow plugs don't need to come on anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T17:36:45.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-02-03T17:43:35.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical analogy:&#xA;Potential Energy:Torque::Kinetic Energy:Horse power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque can exist without motion.It is a capacity to do work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Horsepower can exist only in motion. It is rate of doing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power of engine = Torque * Speed;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To refer an engine running at constant load, Power reference is used to extract maximum power.&lt;br&gt;.&#xA;To refer an engine running at variable loads(shift of gears,for eg), Torque is more appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curves:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Torque curve:Torque produced by engine vs engine rpm, at various load on engine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Power curve:Power produced by engine vs engine rpm, at various load on engine. This will be obtained by multiplying torque curve by speed.So this will be a shifted + elongated version on torque curve.&#xA;Refer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epi-eng.com/images/Engine/ET-TqCrv2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power torque curve example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuel economy curve will be overlapped on above curves for better understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are getting confused between power curve/torque curve and fuel economy curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a power curve, we can obtain torque curve and vice-versa.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuel economy curve must be provided explicitly as an overlapping graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it must be obvious when to use what.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To get best mileage,follow mileage curve.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To get max power, refer power curve.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque curve will be generally used as a reference for transmission control systems,to know which is next best gear to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not clear? Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a real-world example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The curves are specified only at certain load conditions.So the actual behavior of engine depends on current load on engine as well as various limitations imposed due to legislative/emission norms/damage protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14633" LastEditorUserId="14633" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T01:31:47.277" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T01:31:47.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25635" CreationDate="2016-02-03T17:46:13.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an alternator there are two major components; the stator and the rotor. The rotor has a coil wound on it. By applying a current to that coil a magnetic field is formed and then spinning the rotor electricity is excited in the stator. Because the rotor needs to spin while mainaining electrical contact for the coil slip rings are used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djRwa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djRwa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are normally two rings made out of copper or some kind of copper alloy. The rings are mounted on some type of plastic or composite material to insulate them from the shaft of the rotor. The wires that come off the slip rings to the coils are attached to the rings on the underside. Then there are channels in the plastic to route the wires keeping the wires away from moving parts. To keep contact with the slip rings there is a pair of carbon brushes. The brushes are made out of carbon so as to be both conductive and not too abrasive for the rings. The brushes are held is place tight against the slip rings with springs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilmhG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilmhG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the electrical load of the vehicle and the RPM of the engine are constantly changing the output of the alternator constantly needs to be adjusted. That adjustment is done by controlling the current in the rotor. Those adjustments are preformed by the voltage regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T21:46:52.343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:46:52.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25620" CreationDate="2016-02-03T18:13:19.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father has a '73 thing and has gone back and forth between electronic and points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It APPEARS to be electronic.  It looks like there is a black box on the back of the dist with a black and red wire coming out.  The basic way to tell is to pop of the dist cap, remove the rotor, remove the disc.  Underneath you will either see the electronic pickup or points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T18:13:19.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T19:05:00.443" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Escort runs great with heater or a/c on. It runs rough and sometimes dies when they're off. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14810" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T14:29:57.653" Title="1997 Escort idles rough when a/c is off" Tags="|ford|idle|escort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25651" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:19:39.673" Score="2" ViewCount="3747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that some people might want to buy an aftermarket throttle body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is the reason for this simply to replace a broken one or are there also other specific advantages (and disadvantages) to them?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T22:00:28.777" Title="Why might you choose to change to using an aftermarket throttle body?" Tags="|engine|car|engine-theory|throttle|throttle-body|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25647" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:25:51.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard from another member of this community that the throttle body, among other things, has the ability to change the power curve of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What exactly is a throttle body?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How might the throttle body effect the power curve of the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:13:15.230" Title="What is the effect of the throttle body on the power curve produced by the engine?" Tags="|engine|car|engine-theory|throttle|throttle-body|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25619" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:44:01.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotapart.com/M.I.L._ON_DTC_P1349_-_VVTi_ACTUATOR_T-EG009-03.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #EG009-03&lt;/a&gt; which talks about this very problem with the VVTi engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulletin gives the following steps to diagnosing/fixing the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Inspect the condition of the valve cover oil baffle as per TSB EG007–02. If camshaft or camshaft position sensor damage resulting from a bent baffle is identified, repair the damage as necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Make sure the vehicle is in “PARK” with the engine idling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Referring to the screen flow below, connect the Toyota Diagnostic Tester to the vehicle and select the VVT Control Bank One Active Test (VVT CTRL B1) from the Active Test Menu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the service bulletin talks about next (step #4) is using their diagnostic tester. I know the average Joe doesn't have one of these, so we have to do the next step in a different way. Basically what they are asking the technician to do is to turn the VVTI actuator on manually. For us to do this, all we have to do is apply power to the actuator and listen to see if there is a change in how the engine runs. I guess the first thing you have to do is figure out where the VVTi actuator is located at. I believe on your car it is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJarE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJarE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test it, unplug the actuator (in the image it's called a Camshaft Timing Oil Control Valve. It's the part which allows the oil pressure to feed to the Controller. After you have it unplugged, have the engine running and up to temp. Then apply power to the actuator. The TSB goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If at this point the vehicle does not run rough and/or stalls when the active test is performed, proceed with Repair Manual P1349 VVTi Fault Isolation Procedure (FIP). If the vehicle does stall and/or runs rough, this indicates the the VVTi control system is operating. Proceed to replace the VVTi actuator following the repair procedures listed on the Technical Information System (TIS): Engine Mechanical Section, Camshaft, Replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the technician attaches his equipment to your car, he'll be looking to see which way he needs to go with the repairs. I'm pretty sure it will be limited to the three things you mentioned above in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T20:44:01.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T20:59:13.080" Score="3" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was just out for a drive down the highway and I went to turn off that highway onto another and I decided I haven't done a burnout in a while so I gave it a shot and shortly after that when I got my truck up to speed at anywhere around 80km/h to 100km/h (highway speed) it started to make a high pitch squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's loud enough that I can't tell if its coming from the front or rear end of the truck.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squeal goes away when I accelerate or decelerate. Its only there when I keep a steady speed. My truck has about 42,000 kms on it so it is not that old at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can anybody tell me what the source of the squeal might be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14813" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T00:34:56.143" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T06:26:52.483" Title="2014 Dodge RAM 1500 Hemi 5.7 Liter 4x4 - Loud Squeal" Tags="|noise|troubleshooting|dodge|ram|hemi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T17:24:05.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25648" CreationDate="2016-02-03T21:00:27.913" Score="9" ViewCount="5099" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changed all the lights on my Girlfriend's Mini Cooper last weekend, since then the indicators have been going crazy (assuming due to power consumption being very low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can replace the relay for the lights so that it works with LED properly. Do you know what I need to do in order to fix this? I've found these plugs but unsure if I need to replace something that's there or add into a blank slot - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Flasher-Unit.html?gclid=CPiKweC03MoCFckaGwodt-8Pow&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Flasher-Unit.html?gclid=CPiKweC03MoCFckaGwodt-8Pow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJ2Tw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJ2Tw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the fuse box and fuse box diagram for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jYVpR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jYVpR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yo0xq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yo0xq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastEditorUserId="14068" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T23:32:03.513" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T00:47:05.410" Title="Mini Cooper 2003 - Changed lights to LED, insanely fast indicator lights now" Tags="|relay|mini-cooper|led|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25643" CreationDate="2016-02-03T21:13:15.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What exactly is a throttle body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a gasoline engine, the throttle body (TB) is the mechanism which controls the flow of air into a fuel injected engine. It is the &quot;front door&quot; if you will. Inside of most TBs you'll find at least one butterfly valve. There will usually be a main rod going through the center of the butterfly valve which allows the butterfly to open and allow air to flow into it. The butterfly can be controlled by a cable (aka: &lt;em&gt;drive by cable&lt;/em&gt; or DBC) or more recently is controlled by wire (aka: &lt;em&gt;drive by wire&lt;/em&gt; or DBW), meaning the computer (ECU). Some TBs have a single butterfly, while others have dual (two butterflies attached and actuated by the same rod). I'm sure they might even be some out there with even more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary purpose of the TB in DBC systems is to monitor the throttle position. There will usually be &lt;em&gt;throttle position sensor&lt;/em&gt; (TPS) to send this information to the computer. DBW systems don't readily need a TPS because the computer is already telling the throttle how far to keep the butterflies open in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of what a TB might look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvjXD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvjXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How might the throttle body effect the power curve of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In very simple terms, the TB is &lt;em&gt;just a restriction in the intake&lt;/em&gt;. Without something like it in the way of air getting into the system, the engine would run up to it's maximum (if it had the fuel as well) and would soon self destruct. It'd be called a &lt;em&gt;runaway&lt;/em&gt; in the diesel engine world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the TB is just a restriction, when we open the butterflies, the TB can allow a certain amount of air in. Usually, the larger the bore (or opening of the TB itself) the more air can pass through. In SAE terms, this is usually measure in &lt;em&gt;cubic feet per minute&lt;/em&gt; (CFM). A larger TB can flow more CFM. How this might affect the power curve of an engine is by allowing the engine to take in a larger amount of air. If an engine can take in more air, it can &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;potentially&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; have a higher RPM and thus a great chance for more power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be wondering why I highlighted &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;potentially&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the above paragraph. The reason is, even with a larger TB, the engine will only be able to use as much air as it can use &lt;em&gt;and no more&lt;/em&gt;. Adding a larger TB is only one small piece in the puzzle for affecting the power curve of the engine. If an engine cannot use more air, buying a new or larger TB isn't going to automatically be granting the engine more power or allow it to change the power curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:13:15.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25646" CreationDate="2016-02-03T21:17:10.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is LEDs don't draw as much power as regular incandescent lights do. By putting the LEDs into the vehicle, you are making the vehicle &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; the lights are out because of the lower draw. The indicators blink faster to indicate to you, the driver, there is a bulb out which needs to be changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to fix this is to put a resistor in between the two wires which deliver power to the LED bulb. The resistor will allow for a little more current to pass through back to the blinker relay without causing a short and blowing a fuse. You'll need to look up exactly what you'll need for your application. You might want to start with the manufacturer and ask them what size of resistor is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relays you have shown in the link are the typical relay plug pattern. If these are the correct pattern for the Cooper (I haven't found the exact one yet), then you can use it without putting a resistor into the wiring at the bulb end. As long as this fits, it's all you'd need to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T21:22:45.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:22:45.757" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-02-03T21:53:17.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the simplest terms possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque = Lbs/Ft. A concrete, real measurement of the &lt;em&gt;twisting force&lt;/em&gt; produced by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower = &lt;strong&gt;An arbitrary, made up unit of &lt;em&gt;work&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; A unit of horsepower is predicated on the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;assumption&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; that a horse can pull with a force of just over 180 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mistake most people make when engaging in this debate is considering horsepower and torque independently. Almost everyone argues as if they are separate, unrelated values. They aren’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower = (Torque x RPMs) / 5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This equation is the second most important thing on this page, and it’s the reason that anyone telling you that horsepower and torque should be considered equally and separately is significantly off-base. The fact of the matter is that horsepower is the product of torque and another value — RPMs (divided by 5252). It’s not unrelated, separate, or different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In fact, there’s not a single machine in existence that measures a car’s horsepower. It’s a man-made number.&lt;/strong&gt; When a car’s performance is tested, it’s torque is measured using a dynamometer. The measure of an engine’s performance is torque. Horsepower is an additional number that’s attained by multiplying the torque by the RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://danielmiessler.com/study/horsepower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Relationship Between Horsepower, Torque, and Acceleration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T22:18:31.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25642" CreationDate="2016-02-03T21:54:47.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the few reasons to change to an aftermarket throttle body is performance. The throttle body is a common bottle neck that may restrict air flow. This restriction comes from one of two places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine has had upgrades or some kind that allow it to &quot;breath&quot; better. While the throttle body was not restrictive before the upgrades, now that the engine thirst for more air the throttle body becomes a bottle neck. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The throttle body was deliberately restricted by the manufacturer. GM is well known for &quot;de-tuning&quot; their engines. The Quad-Four was a well known de-tuned engine. The rumor was that the transmission could not handle the power the engine was putting out. It was then easier to put a smaller throttle body on the engine than upgrade the transmission. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:54:47.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25642" CreationDate="2016-02-03T22:00:28.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your other question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/25643/4152&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the effect of the throttle body on the power curve produced by the engine?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, I answered the question of what a throttle body (TB) is and it's basic operation. In the answer, I talked generally about how the function of the TB. I point others there so they have a basic knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main reasons why someone would want to replace a TB:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Function&lt;/strong&gt; - The current one is broken and needs replaced. A typical scenario I've seen in this situation is the bushings which the throttle plate rod rides on will get worn out. This can allow un-metered air to get into the intake an cause problems with the how the engine runs. Replacement in this case would most likely be back to a stock one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Performance&lt;/strong&gt; - You want more giddyup! If someone wants to improve the performance of their vehicle, a bigger TB would allow more air to be brought into the engine, which could potentially make more power. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine is basically an air pump. You bring air into the engine (through the intake system and throttle body), it get's mixed with fuel, it all gets burned and becomes exhaust, and gets sent out through the exhaust system. As I've stated before, the TB is one part of this air pump system. It is a &lt;em&gt;restriction&lt;/em&gt; in this system. It also regulates the amount of air which can enter. Having a larger TB on there will give the engine the potential to use more air, &lt;em&gt;but only if the engine can use it in the first place&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a larger TB on the engine without making adjustments to the other parts of the engine which also affects air flow, it will only be a waste of money. To properly use the bigger TB, you need to adjust valve events (most likely through changing out the cam shaft), enlarging/smoothing the intake/exhaust ports (through machining and porting), and a hi-flow exhaust system. Only then does the true potential of an aftermarket TB make a real difference. Then again, you'll want to make sure the bottom end of the engine can handle the new found air flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T22:00:28.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17791" CreationDate="2016-02-03T23:25:19.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the fan works fine, just that cold air isn't blowing, there are two things that spring to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're out of refrigerant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your compressor has gone bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerant leaks even if you have a sealed system. This is normal, don't freak out. You should get it refilled with refrigerant if this is the case. You can check this is the case by looking for bubbles in AC system viewing hole (car dependant) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor gone bad is difficult to diagnose yourself, unless the AC belt has just slipped off or broke. To rule it out, refill the system with the correct gas and get the type of gas that has a UV dye. Looks like you are based in the US, where you can buy refill these kits easily in autoparts stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T23:25:19.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25655" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:00:33.543" Score="7" ViewCount="2731" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier today I was driving behind a double-trailer dump truck configured something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucFdV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucFdV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we approached a red light, the driver obviously applied the brakes, and for the last 50 or so feet before coming to a stop, the rear wheels of the rear trailer were all very obviously locked up as evidenced by clouds of smoke and a nice skid mark from all 4 tires on that axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was during normal driving conditions.  I don't think the driver was making any kind of emergency stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the rear wheels locking up due to some malfunction, or is this perhaps happening simply because the rear trailer was possibly unloaded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of an abundance of caution I made sure to leave an extra comfortable distance.  However, other than the spectacular smoke and skidmarks, the vehicle appeared to be under control.  Is there any danger to either the truck or to other vehicles (me) when this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:31:00.250" Title="Cause of double trailer dump truck brake lockup" Tags="|brakes|truck|trailer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25210" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:29:46.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new-ish product on the market called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biocircle.com/en_US/about-parts-washing-systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bio-Circle&lt;/a&gt;. This is about as earth friendly as it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdHxS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdHxS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way this stuff works is there are live micro-organisms which ingest oils and other organic contaminants, turning them into water and carbon dioxide. The great thing about it is there bio-remediating liquids maintain their cleaning power over time (the micro-organisms don't readily die-off). If the solution sits for too long and the stuff does die off, you can easily get a recharge for it and it's back up to where it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the physical footprint of this is probably a bit large for an apartment, but would work well for a small shop. I haven't found &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; like it which helps you stay away from dangerous/toxic chemicals which are normally used to clean parts. Best of all, this stuff works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KM5lM4c81Os&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video of Jay Leno&lt;/a&gt; talking about it in his (in)famous garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I have no connection, nor affiliation with the owners or makers of this product ... Just trying to answer the question honestly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T00:29:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25653" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:39:39.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue most likely is, &lt;strong&gt;the trailer was empty&lt;/strong&gt;. The brakes are designed to work well when the trailer is full. As you can imagine, if the dump was full of loose gravel there'd be quite a load in it. When the trailer is empty, the same amount of force on the brake pedal can cause the brakes to lock up easily. This is something more for the driver to worry about than you ... this gets expensive on tires!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T00:39:39.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T02:03:08.227" Score="6" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Golf. I put the car on the drive on Friday night and tried to use it on Wednesday and it was dead. No lights, no display nothing.&#xA;I came home and jump started and it ran fine. No stalls etc etc. About 2 weeks ago the radio stopped working but as far as I can gather all the additional electrical systems are fine...heated seats etc.&#xA;After the jump the radio was working.&#xA;Does this point to the alternator not charging the battery and thus a dead battery or a bad battery that needs replacing. Incidently it was below 0F last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up to comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough points to comment back sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The radio is factory installed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can i use the voltmeter on the battery charger if its not connected to the mains to see the change in voltage ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/4/2016 I don't have enough points to comment back sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;got a voltmeter. 12.4v when powered off. 14.4 v running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;took car to oreily they tested the battery and alternator said it was behaving perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So was the issue caused by the 3 days of not driving and the cold ?&#xA;Is the radio being off a red herring and has nothing todo with my current issues just an unfortunate coincidence ? Its been working for the first time in 2 weeks today since being charged last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14815" LastEditorUserId="14816" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T13:51:37.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:51:37.443" Title="2002 golf dead battery - Was able to jump - Bad alternator or Battery" Tags="|battery|vw|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25656" CreationDate="2016-02-04T02:29:42.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a volt meter that you can connect to the battery you will be able to check the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before starting the engine, check the battery voltage, it will probably be a little over 12v.  Now start the engine and turn on your headlights to draw some power.  If the alternator is working, the battery voltage should now be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good idea to clean the battery terminals and the connectors to ensure there is a good contact before replacing the battery if everything else seems fine.  Make sure you have your radio security code before disconnecting the battery if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also check that there isn't much current being drawn from the battery while everything is switched off which could have caused a flat battery.  You will need an ammeter for that, which you will need to connect in series with the battery.  It is possible that your radio had somehow gotten into a state where it appeared off, but was drawing power all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't got a voltmeter, you can get an indication of whether the alternator is working by watching to see if your head-lights dim a little when you stop the engine running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after jump starting your engine and driving you were later able to start the engine without jump leads, this pretty much proves your alternator is working, because it must have put the power to restart into the battery.  It doesn't prove that it is providing the correct voltage however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T08:41:58.120" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T08:41:58.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25653" CreationDate="2016-02-04T02:34:59.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that the trailer brakes are correctly adjusted and the trucks are out of adjustment.  Excessive pedal pressure (movement) is required to engage the truck brakes. This over brakes the empty trailer causing the lock-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T02:34:59.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T02:46:08.267" Score="7" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding: &#xA;Engine brake uses engine friction to damp the vehicle momentum.&#xA;If one wishes to apply engine brake to assist manual gearshift,(activate engine brake, rpm dies, shift to lower gear), will this result in engine stall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern day trucks,I understand idle governor takes care if rpm falls.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, in below sequence&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;1)activate engine brake--&gt;Vehicle drives engine--&gt;rpm reduces slowly &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;2)clutch pedal pressed--&gt;nothing drives engine&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;3)gear shift done &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;4)clutch pedal released.Here my guess is, &lt;br&gt; &#xA;based on the various factors such as &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;a)duration of clutch press, &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;b)previous gear and current gear,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;c)based on vehicle momentum,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;d)due to sudden loading,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;engine might stall and this may not be recovered with governor.&#xA;So,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;a)Is there a possibility of engine stall in above scenario?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;b)Is it not safe to have engine brake active during gear shift?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14633" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T06:59:01.970" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:58:50.637" Title="Any possibility of engine stall if engine brake is active during gear shift?" Tags="|brakes|clutch|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17059" CreationDate="2016-02-04T04:11:51.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guessing. May be due to looping of 2 governors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car software tries to maintain the idle rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AC temperature governor tries to maintain temperature, but some clogs in coolant path or issues with compressor leads to variable load on engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure AC system serviced once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14633" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T07:52:52.527" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T07:52:52.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2016-02-04T04:56:22.887" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a somewhat paranoid motorcyclist, I'm a huge fan of remaining in first, with the clutch disengaged until at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; one vehicle has fully stopped behind me, after that if the remaining stop time is long (frequently it isn't) I may switch to neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until that vehicle has completely stopped, you're at risk of being rear ended by someone failing to stop in time. Evasive action is much faster from first than neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cars, there's far less opportunity to take evasive action (A bike can slip between lanes, cars can't), so it may matter much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T04:56:22.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T06:00:04.173" Score="8" ViewCount="3036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1972 Honda CB350F and I got the new tail light from DimeCity. I think it was called the Buffalo style Medium tail light. The tail light turns on and works fine when I switch on the headlight, but whenever I activate the brakes (brake light), the fuse gets fried within a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked it up the exact same way as my stock tail light (which works perfectly fine with no trouble).&#xA;Here are some pictures of the connections with labels on the wires. (Sorry for the jumbled mess)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock Tail light connection: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-G = Ground (Solid Green Wire) &#xA;-P = Power (Solid Brown Wire) &#xA;-L = Switch (Green Wire with Yellow Stripe) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ah52L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old brake light wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Tail light connection: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-Black wire -&amp;gt; Ground &#xA;-Red wire -&amp;gt; Power &#xA;-Yellow wire -&amp;gt; Switch &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zX33.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New brake light wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14820" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T17:46:01.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:24:26.997" Title="Why does my new tail light keep blowing the fuse?" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|tail-lights|cb350-four|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25666" CreationDate="2016-02-04T08:22:21.817" Score="3" ViewCount="1405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3rd gen vios, and most of the time I have full passenger (5 total) and sometimes full load on trunk. Most of the time my bottom part hits speed bumps when I am full, even when entering speed bumps on an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched and searched the internet but can't find what should I change to prevent this. Most of the topics online are for performance with a single person not for everyday family use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using all stock Vios 2015 Base J, 14&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14824" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T06:31:29.897" Title="3rd gen vios hitting speed bumps even on-angle entry" Tags="|toyota|vios|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25664" CreationDate="2016-02-04T09:59:30.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is old, then possibly the shocks/springs/dampers are worn/old so the car is both lower than it should be and not responding to the bump as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the Vios is pretty small, and loaded with 5 people it will sit low to the ground, so you may just have to accept that speed bumps are better avoided. I'd suggest you look under the car to see what is actually hitting the ground. It is often part of the exhaust system hanging lower than it should, so this is easy to fix - simply sort out the hook and rubber support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is part of your chassis or the underside of the sump - your only options are to either raise the car - by replacing shocks, springs and possibly other parts of the suspension - or avoid the speed bumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T09:59:30.933" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25671" CreationDate="2016-02-04T10:01:12.073" Score="4" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 100cc motorcycle which has &lt;em&gt;drum brakes&lt;/em&gt; on both the wheels. I have faced this problem with the rear wheel's brake for the past two years and I adjusted it many times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About an year back, I replaced the rear wheel's drum brake for the first time in 5 years, since the motorcycle was purchased. Even after replacement the same problem occurs and brakes go loose easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14525" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T11:53:14.137" Title="Why does my motorcycle's brake get loose easily?" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T10:47:45.130" Score="3" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've Renault Duster RxZ. I would like to calculate the DTE(Distance till Empty) which is based on the &quot;how much fuel the car has&quot; and the &quot;mileage of the car&quot; ?&#xA;Currently the OBD doesn't return anything when i send the PID &quot;01 2F&quot;, it says &quot;NO DATA&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other way to calculate the DTE ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14829" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T08:01:03.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:44:49.353" Title="How to calculate Car &quot;Distance Till Empty&quot; without knowing the fuel level" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25672" CreationDate="2016-02-04T11:19:36.247" Score="8" ViewCount="7500" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dad gave us a car, but we don't know the exact model of it. We know that it's a BMW 320i imported from Japan. The year is 2006.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a letter &quot;M&quot; on the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;http://marketplace.nzherald.co.nz/listing/1bcjsk3/&quot;&gt;http://marketplace.nzherald.co.nz/listing/1bcjsk3/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14830" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T10:27:55.860" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T10:27:55.860" Title="What's the difference between BMW 320i SE and Non SE?" Tags="|bmw|320i|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25667" CreationDate="2016-02-04T11:53:14.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drum brakes have the tendency of getting loose every couple of months since unlike disc brakes you will need to apply a lot of force to have proper deceleration and this causes the line to get lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even Disc brake lines get loose but the interval is much much greater than drum brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your break gets loose say every hundred kilometres then yo will have to change the brake line and things should be back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also , I am surprised you changed brakes only one time in 5 years! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T11:53:14.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25670" CreationDate="2016-02-04T12:24:20.237" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe SE stands for &quot;Special Equipment&quot; on BMW. Basically individual options. The &quot;M&quot; on the steering wheel means it has an M Sport package, mostly prettier design trim - bodykit, M badges, steering wheel, shift knob, exhaust tips, etc. Possibly a harder suspension as well, not sure if all models get that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the pictures the BMW is an E90. If the car in the link is the one you are talking about - you can find out a lot from the VIN number. VIN number decoders can be found online. Here's what can be known about the car you posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uN3xz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uN3xz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW E90&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T12:29:35.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T12:29:35.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T13:45:06.637" Score="5" ViewCount="28805" Body="&lt;p&gt;2009 Toyota  Camry.&#xA;At first my battery was flat, this has happened 3 times in the past 2 months. The last time this happened, I jump started it and went to take my car for a drive. As I placed my foot on the accelerator nothing happened. There was no rev or anything. The check engine light was on. I checked the water and oil level, everything was fine. The car has been running smoothly prior to this happening. No signs of any problems other than the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to ultra tune and the guy told me that he thinks there is a problem with the compression which means that, there could be problems with the head and will be very expensive... is this right?. Could it be something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14837" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T05:47:13.460" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T06:39:25.880" Title="Problems with the accelerator please help" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25640" CreationDate="2016-02-04T14:29:57.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of a shot in the dark with the information given, but here is where I would start..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have the A/C on, the ECU will typically raise the idle to compensate for the extra load.  I am thinking you have a dirty throttle body, that is not allowing enough air to get through to allow it to idle properly.  When the ECU raises the idle, it is now letting enough air in to idle properly.  I would clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and a toothbrush.  There is likely a ring of carbon around where the butterfly valve closes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T14:29:57.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18024" CreationDate="2016-02-04T14:49:53.720" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two sides to this topic:&#xA;1) As you depress the clutch the input shaft is disconnected from the crank -&gt; Less strain on the starter and the battery/electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all nice and dandy, HOWEVER:&#xA;2) By pressing down the clutch pedal you put an axial load on the crankshaft. This will lead to increased wear on the thrust bearing (The one crank bearing that also limits/sets the axial play of the crankshaft) as there is no or not enough oil pressure yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use the clutch out neutral start. However, I never drive my cars for such short times where an increased strain on the battery can't be recharged. If the starter should at some point fail from the added stress, it is easier and cheaper to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14840" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T14:49:53.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24838" CreationDate="2016-02-04T14:55:43.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To see a real car that has been 'chopped' and 'channeled', check out my custom car:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://lilmerc.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lilmerc.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the answer above, the 30s/40s/50s/60s cars are usually the best candidates as they have a separate chassis and body - after this period (and in modern cars) the chassis and body are merged together (this is referred to as a monocoque).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a chop &amp;amp; channel?  Because it makes the car look cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see with my car, the &quot;before&quot; photo shows it is an eyesore/ an ugly-duckling / just horrid.... the &quot;after&quot; photo shows it is now sooooo much better with a 5&quot; roof chop, channeled to lower it further.  It doesn't look like the same car, but I assure you, it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: a couple of photos as requested&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RN70Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RN70Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FZsN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FZsN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14841" LastEditorUserId="14841" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T12:35:27.003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:35:27.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25412" CreationDate="2016-02-04T15:51:26.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds from the comments that you have eliminated belt slip as the culprit due to the sound of the squeak (and lack of squeal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can pinpoint the squeaking to one specific pulley, it is likely the bearings for that pulley are on their last legs. Bearings perform better under heavier loads, which could explain why the squeak goes away at higher RPMs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T15:51:26.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25693" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:10:21.970" Score="2" ViewCount="7787" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost obviously depends on the mechanic's hourly rate, but I know that the manufacturers provide authorized dealers with a guide of how many hours each service / job should take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can't seem to find this info for the Altima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14844" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T17:30:39.463" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T05:23:52.543" Title="Hours of labor required for 2007 Altima 2.5 engine refresh/rebuild" Tags="|engine|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25742" CreationDate="2016-02-04T17:34:20.713" Score="4" ViewCount="8306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car used to start fine 49 out of 50 times but without obvious reason it sometimes struggled to start (as seen in video). This can be on a cold start or a warm start. Happens in warm, cold, wet and dry weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This morning, the car fails to start at all. Nothing I try will make it start. I took a video last night - this was an example of the starting trouble that I have experienced intermittently for the last few weeks. But this morning the same thing happened but it will not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHrI5fhlNRI&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video of car trouble&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought the car a month ago - full service history - local mechanic gave it the once over (after we noticed this issue) and said that everything looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has had a new battery (installed after the original one failed a week after purchase) so I doubt this is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been plugged into two separate garage's computers for diagnostic with no errors recorded. Two garages could not find a fault (they didn't witness the starting problem - I have only just managed to capture it on video). Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current ideas (based on some online research)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR value not forming a seal prob due to the fact soot is stopping a valve or something to operate correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle body air valve getting stuck closed because of soot in the intake causing to harden when engine is powered off and not releasing when trying to start it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are both points the same? Could this be logical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14845" LastEditorUserId="14845" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T12:30:14.687" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T20:47:57.187" Title="SMAX Zetec 2.0 TDCi 2010 Plate - Why wont my car start ? (see video)" Tags="|ford|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25075" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:09:59.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One likely cause for the brake lights staying on is a brake pedal switch that remains in the closed position, which keeps the brake lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This switch is situated next to the brake pedal and if the brake pedal doesn't make contact with the switch, the switch stays closed, which keeps the lights on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would need to refer to a wiring diagram to confirm whether this also explains why the tail lights stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:09:59.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:33:46.253" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the carbs on my 79 GS1000 Suzuki from 27MM to 36MM&#xA;I modified some old Kawasaki intakes to fit by elongating the 2 mounting screw holes on intakes boots. The Bike runs great! but I'm not happy with what was modified on the boot specificatly the possibility of air leaks. Does anybody know if any Suzuki intakes will fit the 36MM Mikuni carbs without elongating the mountin holes?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14848" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:33:46.253" Title="Intake boots for 79 GS1000" Tags="|suzuki|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-10T10:17:12.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:37:17.117" Score="5" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;my steering wheel is unstable and has tendency to deviate and shakes.&#xA;It's hard to drive and very accident risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic inspected and asked me to replace two wheel Rims.&#xA;He has asked for $275 to get OEM wheel for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced one of the problem wheels with a spare wheel(wheel+tire).&#xA;After that it's not as much unstable (40-50% less unstable), but the steering is still shaking.&#xA;I did not notice any physical deformity on the problem wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if the mechanic is approaching the problem right way.&#xA;He assured me that 80% of my steering unstability will go away with new wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not have time and agreed to have one wheel replaced.(it's not been replaced at the time of this post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, how do I know if the wheel is causing the problem?&#xA;Should I take the bad wheel to tire balancing machine and get it inspected or what other other options ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing front wheel with a new tire and performing alignment the steering unstability was resolved but still shaking even at low speeds. At this point the front left tire is dead. After putting on new tire on left front shaking has gone. The vehicle came with runflat tires the new ones are not left flat, i have noticed difference in steering handling. Previously the steering would resist the change in direction, that means u have to put enough effort to turn the steering but now with relatively less effort i can turn the steering a very wide angle. That makes it difficult to drive any small unintended force can steer the vehicle in wrong direction. Wondering what is causing . i doubt it because runflat vs non runflat. Still thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T16:51:37.273" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T16:51:37.273" Title="2010 mini cooper , Steering wheel unstable and tends to deviate all over. Unable to diagnose the problem" Tags="|mini-cooper|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25621" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:42:49.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do know somebody who left an older car parked for a month outside and the alternator seized, but that could happen to any number of accessories and wouldn't be specific to the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the battery has discharged from lack of use, it will cause a higher load on the alternator while it's charging it back up.  This is probably more of an issue with an old battery and an aging alternator that's looking for an excuse to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it is possible, but there's so many other things that can go wrong while a car is parked (including rodents moving in) that it's really pointless to worry about any single thing in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:42:49.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T19:46:09.563" Score="6" ViewCount="4616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the fuel tank on a 3 year old Honda EU3000is K1 Generator.  Unfortunately gas was left in the fuel tank and the tank is now rusted.  I was able to get the generator working again but believe that replacing the fuel tank will be necessary to avoid future blockage issues in the carburetor. My problem is that in order to remove the fuel tank, the main cover surround must be removed.  Although the side panel of the main cover appears movable, the top of the main cover (particularly around the fuel filler and fuel filler neck seal) seems immovable.  I'm not certain the process for removal and would appreciate any advice to take of the main cover and access the fuel tank below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14851" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T17:31:34.100" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:31:34.100" Title="Honda EU3000is K1 Generator - Replace Gas Tank" Tags="|honda|fuel-tank|generator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T19:48:17.513" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier and I can't seem to get it started. I have replaced spark plugs, wires, core pack, and battery. Once I get it started and then I drive it back home it decides not to start again. Can someone please help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14850" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T19:57:32.877" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:01:49.960" Title="Can't seem to start vehicle" Tags="|chevrolet|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T20:11:36.213" Score="12" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently a friend of mine was driving a VW Fox (not new, I'm not sure what year but it was certainly 5+ years old) home in the dark with the lights on. Strangely, after a minute or two of driving all the interior lights turned off. The headlights, and all exterior lights as far as I can tell, remained on. Turning the lights on and off just turned the working exterior lights on and off (still as intended) but the interior lights on the buttons, dash and alike all remained off. This could be dangerous as it became hard to estimate how fast the car was travelling and other important information like fuel, engine temperature and the infamous check engine light. After another few minutes, the headlights went dim temporarily, the other lights all sprang back in to life started working perfectly! The headlights then resumed their normal brightness and they returned home with a perfectly functioning car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could be the cause of this? Will it happen again if nothing is changed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably not alternator problems as headlights are still working and bright as always&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could be loose wiring or a short circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of electrical fault (though no EPC or check engine light shown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May have poor battery condition so the car is radically trying to reduce consumption so as not to require a jump start on the next drive (though I doubt this somewhat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T21:52:32.703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:54:48.060" Title="Peculiar Interior Lighting Issue" Tags="|electrical|car|lights|electronic-control-module|interior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25696" CreationDate="2016-02-04T20:18:20.947" Score="6" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electric fuel pump manufacturers can provide pump curves like this one below by Pierburg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpBoy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpBoy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel Pump Curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to confirm my understanding of the curves when simulating the effect of worn brushes in the electric motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pump pressure and fuel flow rate corresponding to a power value will be read off the curve vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn brushes will result in a reduction in power available to the pump. This has the effect of the point of operation shifting left on the yellow curve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When shifting the point of operation to the left, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pump pressure decreases&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;volumetric flow increases&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNP7u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNP7u.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel Pump Curve - Annotated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my understanding correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the observations match real-world data, especially that flow &lt;em&gt;increases&lt;/em&gt; as the brushes wear out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T21:41:19.143" LastActivityDate="2023-10-20T10:00:57.853" Title="Do worn brushes in an electric fuel pump increase fuel flow rate?" Tags="|engine-theory|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:17:07.193" Score="0" ViewCount="4158" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm hearing a creepy/whooshing sound coming from the dash board and the sound disappears when I turn off the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time to have the AC system replaced?  Recently had coolant replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone experienced this?  What was your experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14853" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T08:30:05.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T20:43:32.223" Title="Strange noises from AC/Dash board" Tags="|ac|noise|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25684" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:19:28.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front wheels that are out of balance will cause shaking in the steering wheel at certain speeds. Tires that are bad can do this at all speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shaking was partially resolved by putting on a spare, try rotating the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wheel nuts are torqued to spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T21:19:28.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:33:02.700" Score="1" ViewCount="2322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a car. The recommendation is to do the service every 12,000 kms or 6 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the car for about 400 kms per month. I'm far from the next service. But I received a call from the retailer telling me that I have to do the service, otherwise, I'll lose the guarantee of the car. (this isn't the 2 years guarantee) this is an extended guarantee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about the real necessity to do the service if the car isn't used enough. I use the car every week but just a few kilometers, in my idea this will make the fluids to move and aren't enough to desgaste the parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11032" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T12:39:17.500" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:39:17.500" Title="How important is the procedure to service a car every 6 months" Tags="|service|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-04T23:17:32.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25680" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:41:36.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly it would be cheaper to buy a new engine rather than rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your looking at roughly 26.6 hours. This is just labor, this does not include new seals, bearings, gaskets etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R&amp;amp;R on an engine is 11.6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T21:41:36.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:45:43.080" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Volvo XC90. The manual says that the recommended fuel is 91 octane, and the minimum is 87. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?13188-what-type-of-fuel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum thread&lt;/a&gt; with people recommending various things, but the consensus seems to be that while 91 is best, 87 is acceptable (and one person even claims they use 85).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my gas pump I have the choice of 87, 89 and 91 octane fuel, thus running the gamut of possible fuel types I could consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since higher grade fuel is substantially more expensive, I would like to know what benefit I am getting for the higher cost. I was only able to obtain vague suggestions that it leads to &quot;poor performance&quot;. Ideally, I would just try a bunch of them and use what works, but I am inexperienced and so wouldn't know how to judge the performance of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use low grade fuel such as 87 or even 86 or 85 in spite of the recommended 91, what negative consequences will there be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I have lower MPG? How much lower? (here fuel choice comes down to a simple calculation based on expected mileage and gas price)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the car have less power (ie. drive slower or not pull as much weight)? (I don't really care since my needs are well below spec, so I'd use the cheapest fuel if this were the only concern)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the engine accumulate more wear due to lower grade fuel? Will this wear result in inexpensive repairs, costly repairs, or irreparable damage? (unless the former, I would probably go with the premium fuel in this case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there are multiple angles, and each one leads to different conclusions. As such I'm at a loss about how I should approach the decision. How do I know which fuel I am best off using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14753" LastEditorUserId="14753" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T22:19:28.737" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:59:00.460" Title="What grade of fuel should I use for my car?" Tags="|octane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-04T22:58:46.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25692" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:46:29.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bought the car new, I would highly recommend following the service schedule while you are still under warranty.  Furthermore, you will likely void the warranty if you don't have the services performed at the specified intervals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the services are free, you should definitely do them, they will extend the life of your vehicle at no cost to you. If you have to pay for the service, it's basically like an insurance policy. If you pay for the service now, and then goes wrong under warranty you'll be covered. If you skip the service and something goes wrong, your warranty will be void and you'll have to pay to have it fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T21:46:29.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25689" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:55:15.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your basic premise is flawed. Moving left and right on the graph correlates to different flow rates if everything is kept the same while the pressure is changed. The change in power comes from the change in RPM and is unintentional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a vehicle there is generally only one system voltage available. Further fuel pumps are generally run directly from straight system voltage (there are some exceptions, Ford for example sometimes modulates their pumps). DC motors have a curious effect, their rotor winding resistance is dependent on their RPM. When the motor is stalled (zero RPM) only the actual real resistance of the rotor windings dominates. The rotor winding resistance is very very low. As the motor speeds up the resistance also goes up. At full unloaded RPM there is a balance point where because of the high resistance the motor can't spin any faster and the motor consumes the least amount of current. Because the voltage is kept constant the slower the motor spins the more power it consumes due to the increase in current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change in RPM in a motor come from the load on that motor. In a pump load comes form generating high pressure which in turn slows the motor down. Moving high volume still causes a load but substantially less. Because of the lower load the pump spins at a higher RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn brushes would increase the base resistance of the rotor windings. This would have two effects. First, because of the higher resistance at the lower RPM the pump will consume less current which results in less power. This reduction of power will reduce the maximum pressure the pump can achieve. Second, the increased resistance will cause the pump to reach the balance point at a lower RPM, limiting the maximum volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate result is that the yellow line indicating the current will get slid down and as a result the blue line will also get slid down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T13:09:01.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:09:01.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25687" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:01:49.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the car actually cranks over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you throw more parts at your car you need to confirm spark and fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the check engine light on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you already replaced the ignition components you need to confirm spark when cranking. You can use an old spark plug and a lead wire to ground the electrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail test port does fuel come out? A fuel pressure gauge would be preferable but sometimes just making sure fuel is getting to the rail is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about injector signal? If you have one a noid light would be preferable, but you can also backprobe the injector signal wire and check for ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:01:49.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25674" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:15:06.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility, if this is a diesel engined vehicle.  Modern diesels are &quot;fly by wire&quot; for the throttle.  They have an electrical sensor on the throttle that the engine ECU reads.  If this sensor has broken, then the ECU won't know that you are pressing the throttle, therefore the ECU won't speed up the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:15:06.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25704" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:36:41.187" Score="2" ViewCount="4595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a spare wheel off of CL and got a new tire from a store where it was stretched to the wheel and then balanced.&#xA;When I mount this spare , it make pulsating noise and it increases beyond 50 mph and significantly louder beyond 60. That means my foot off the gas pedal and I can hear that cupping noise, wondering how to fix this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:37:03.163" Title="pulsating loud noise from new spare tire, that was already balanced" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:43:38.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, you're best off using the fuel recommended by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Octane rating is a measure of how resistant the fuel is to ignition. The higher the octane, the harder the fuel is to ignite.&#xA;Fuel that is harder to ignite allows higher compression ratios and more agressive engine tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel is too low octane, modern engines will detune themselves to prevent physical damage from preigintion, this affects both engine power and efficiency. How badly fuel efficiency is compromised depends a lot on how bad the fuel is. Often enough to completely wipe out any savings. Too low and the engine simply cannot run at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For very old engines (mostly carburettor designs) there is nothing to actively prevent preignition. Using too low a grade fuel can easily destroy these engines if preignition occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher octane than the minimum necessary to run without detuning is just wasting money, as the engine cannot gain any benefit from the greater preignition resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:43:38.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:44:20.823" Score="5" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My truck started to shake going down the road. I heard a pop unsure if it was metal slapping or a backfire. Had it towed home and hooked it up to a computer. The codes were multiple cylinders misfires, Cylinder 1 misfire, Bank 1 too rich. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changed all spark plugs and oil and the truck began to struggle to start. When it started truck shook bad and rpm jumped up and down. Now the cylinders on the passenger side are firing, but not on the driver side. I pulled off the clip from cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7 while on and it did nothing. Pulled from 2, 4, 6, 8 and the truck was losing power (like gettting ready to cut off). I don't know what to do next as I have been told it could be electrical, and O2 sensor, or possible timing chain jumped (timing chain was replaced 20,000 miles ago). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14856" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T15:25:15.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T21:01:10.873" Title="2004 Dakota problems" Tags="|engine|dodge|misfire|dakota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25700" CreationDate="2016-02-04T23:29:14.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the rim is true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The wheel is a used one bought off of Craigslist. so it's not new, but no visible damages or dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel isn't true, it could be causing the vibration/noise you're talking about. If the wheel is true, it would have to be either the balance job or a bad tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm sorry. does the wheel being true implies it's a good wheel and bad other wise ? The wheel doesn't have any visible damage when it was bought, can it still be a bad wheel. ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My apologies. If the wheel isn't true, that means the wheel is not completely straight. It can be that way due to a dent (as you mention) or the center of it (where you bolt the rim to the car) might not be right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, you can check this a couple of different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive the car and have someone watch the suspect wheel while you drive. It should be fairly obvious if it's out of true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack the car up and spin the tire by hand. It should be readily apparent if the wheel is true that way as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If neither of these pans out (wheel looks good under observation), take it back to where you had the tire mounted at and tell them you believe the job they did sucks ... well, &lt;em&gt;ask them nicely&lt;/em&gt; if they could recheck the balance to ensure it's right. If the balance is good, it can only be a bad tire after that (as long as a known good tire in the same location isn't having any issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T23:29:14.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2016-02-05T02:13:30.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No,engine control unit will prevent engine stall if cluch pedal is pressed during engine brake activation. There is a small switch on top of clutch pedal in modern vehicles.This will be used to sense clutch pedal press. Truck control unit senses clutch pedal press and deactivates engine brake. An example can be seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tC9UY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tC9UY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clutch pedal switch from Askthemechanic.co.uk&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When clutch pedal is pressed, switch opens and engine brake is automatically deactivated by truck electronic control unit. Switch is designed as &quot;normally open,close when pressed&quot;.So,if switch becomes faulty, engine brake doesn't work as Truck control unit senses clutch pedal pressed condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14578" LastEditorUserId="14633" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T19:58:50.637" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:58:50.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T06:30:43.377" Score="4" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago the VW (2006 Jetta) quit warming up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No heat, no defrost, temperature gauge reads cold!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed thermostat and tested both 'stats at the same time. Both opened right at 195 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TDI Forum has not been much help. Only &quot;cure&quot; that they recommended was to stuff the grill with foam pipe insulation or otherwise block the radiator. This helps but is definitely NOT a cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine also runs cold in the summer - it runs fine without blockage, but running cold is not good for any engine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Thank heaven for seat heaters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14858" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T20:08:46.333" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T20:08:46.333" Title="2006 VW Jetta Diesel won't warm up" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|heater|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-03-09T08:22:04.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T08:10:30.833" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok first oil change I've ever done the plug will not come out? I used a bar cheater bar it turns and turns but will not come out. what do i do? I deliver pizza I need this vehicle. Its bad enough I got to weld the frame from rust&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 92 Nissan Hardbody D 21&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14860" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T15:47:06.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T02:10:18.993" Title="Unable to remove oil drain screw" Tags="|nissan|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T11:07:16.137" Score="5" ViewCount="4864" Body="&lt;p&gt;So off the back of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/25646/12030&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I need to install a resister to my cluster in order for the LEDs in the indicators to work properly and not hyper flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the wiring that I found on Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BzlN.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0BzlN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what wires are what? Ideally I just need to know the positive/negative for the indicators but understanding which wire powers the different lights would be beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:17:22.053" Title="Mini Cooper 2003 - Identify rear indicator light wiring to install LED resistor" Tags="|wiring|lights|tail-lights|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20996" CreationDate="2016-02-05T11:37:04.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had very similar symptoms on a BMW, the sensor itself was faulty and the problem was solved by replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways of diagnosing this that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the sensor readings in the live data section of a diagnostics tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have access to such a tool, buy one new sensor and fit it to each position one by one until the problem is resolved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T11:37:04.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9760" CreationDate="2016-02-05T11:48:30.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the system is either working fine or not at all then the likely failure is in the control gear for the system, the AC clutch would be my first port of call, you'll need an assistant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open the engine bay and look for the AC compressor, it is one of the ancillaries at the side of the engine run by a serpentine belts. The compressor pulley has a clutch built in, so that the pulley always spins, but it only drives the compressor when the AC is switched on (activating the clutch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VegGo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AC Clutch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see if the clutch is working by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locating the AC compressor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting the engine, with the AC off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observe that the middle of the pulley is stationary, this means that the clutch is not engaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your assistant to turn the AC on, you should hear a click and observe that the middle of the pulley is now spinning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not spin then you've either got an electrical fault or the clutch has failed. If the middle of the pulley is not spinning you can try to get a multimeter on the electrical connector and read the voltage when the system is turned on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is 0v you have an electrical fault&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is ~12-15v the clutch has failed and the compressor should be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="24939" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T13:25:44.997" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T13:25:44.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25688" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:20:45.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the lights came back on, this is not a fuse issue.  If there was a short, it should had blown the fuse.  Did the radio remain on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is likely a loose wire somewhere, but unfortunately it is almost impossible to test while everything is working unless you can recreate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple things I would try:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get a schematic, look for any junctions, plugs, fuses, switches, etc. on that circuit&lt;br&gt;&#xA;shake wires on the effected circuit to see if they cause the lights to go out&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check grounds - this will typically be a strap cable, or a black wire attached to the body&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The headlight switch is suspect, given that the entire circuit went dead.  If you can test while it is not working, test at the output of the headlight switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:20:45.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25700" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:37:03.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;just adding to @paulster2's answer, when it's jacked up if you spin the wheel and look at the rim on the inside(inner side) you might notice a flatspot(a flat deviation to the wheels circular shape), that could cause the noise/vibration, usually happens when you hit a pothole or mount a kerb at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the wheel is flatspotted it can be heated up and bent back into shape but there is a chance of your wheel cracking, if it's buckled from the center then you would have to either find a new wheel or make do with it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:37:03.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25688" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:54:48.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's one obvious device that controls all the interior lights, and that's the headlight switch/dimmer.  On some VW cars, this is one large switch, and on others there is a separate dimmer.  The dimmer is normally a horizontally mounted roller that you can roll up or down to dim the interior lights, or when rolled all the way to the &quot;up&quot; position it will click and turn on all interior lights at full brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time this happens, try to roll the dimmer up and down to see if it makes a difference.  Even without seeing the problem, you can try to play with it to see if there is a &quot;bad&quot; spot where the lights flicker or go out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course before power even gets to the dimmer switch the headlight switch has to turn it on, so that is suspect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for completeness, I agree with @rpmerf - it can't be a fuse.  It could be a short in the wiring, but I would &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; diagnose the headlight and dimmer switch before even considering the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:54:48.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25709" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:26:02.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer this in a general way because for someone to tell you what the wires mean, they would need to follow this procedure, or have access to detailed wiring diagrams for your car.  You'll need a multimeter for this, and you'll have to take apart the brake light as if you were changing the bulbs so you have access to the bulb sockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you have light bulbs that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAbMA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OAbMA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that type of bulb, the whole metal base is &quot;ground&quot; and the little tips on the end that are typically made of solder are the &quot;positive&quot; contacts.  Looking at the bulb socket, find the contact that touches the ground of the bulb.  Put your meter in continuity mode, touch one probe to that contact and then touch each of the wire contacts where the car's wiring connects.  This will be the ground wire.  ALL of the bulbs in the light will probably connect to the same ground (my guess would be the brown wire which is common in German cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you know what the ground is, you have two options.  You can touch one probe to the contact in the socket that touches the end of the bulb if there is only one contact.  This will allow you to find the positive on a single contact bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that a blinker light may have two contacts, and you don't know which contact is the blinker positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the meter in Voltage DC mode, and turn on the turn signal.  On the wiring connector, hold one probe of your meter (the black one, but it doesn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; matter) to the ground, and probe each of the other wires with the other.  When you find the positive where the voltage is jumping up and down, that's the winner.  Note that some digital meters might not be fast enough to show the voltage going up and down.  In this case, all the other wires will show near-zero voltage, and the meter may just seem confused when probing the blinker wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the blinker wire is found, it's just a matter of cutting the wire in a convenient place and splicing in a &quot;CAN light resistor&quot;.  These are typically large 6 ohm resistors rated at 50W:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjEPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjEPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mounting/hiding the resistor, keep in mind that they can get hot.  They have to dissipate just as much power as a light bulb, so they can get as hot as a bulb.  A blinker is normally only on for a short time, so heat may not be an issue, but if you use the same thing for an LED &quot;running light&quot; that stays on, heat will be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost forgot - what are the 5 wires probably for?  Normally they would be (in no particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running light (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake light (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Signal (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse light (+) or Rear Fog (+)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T14:51:42.977" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T14:51:42.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24467" CreationDate="2016-02-05T15:05:20.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question, assuming by 'taking it apart' you mean removing the IAC. In that case the only option that I can think of is a back-to-back comparison with another car of identical spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that all components on both vehicles were identical spec and condition, and that the operating conditions (temp, engine speed etc) were identical, you could read IAC position for both engines and compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is probably just academic though, since I'm guessing you won't have another identical car to compare against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in the absence of any symptoms of a fault I'd personally assume that it is 46% by design, and leave it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T15:05:20.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T15:13:00.813" Score="-1" ViewCount="2309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I am driving my car (Hyundai i10) at 2nd gear. My clutch is engaged. As I increase my throttle position, rpm will increase and so will speed of the car till a point when the speed wont increase with increase in rpm as I increase my throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now 2nd case, I keep on increasing my throttle with my foot on the clutch pressed halfway. So I have disengaged my clutch half. What will happen in this case? What are the changes I can see in the car/engine? Will load increase? How much? Will the pattern be the same for Speed vs Rpm graph (speed increasing with rpm till a point and then becoming constant)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. plots to explain concepts are most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T15:45:25.907" Title="Driving car with half engaged clutch" Tags="|clutch|rpm|throttle|engine-load|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25717" CreationDate="2016-02-05T15:45:25.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get us on the same footing, I'm going to &lt;em&gt;assume&lt;/em&gt; by saying &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;clutch pressed halfway&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; you are suggesting the clutch be halfway engaged (meaning, you are still getting power from the engine, but it's not fully engaged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are talking about is called &lt;em&gt;slipping the clutch&lt;/em&gt;. It is a process whereby you can get the engine within the power/torque band without the vehicle itself being at the normal speed for the desired gear. By doing this, you get the &lt;em&gt;benefit&lt;/em&gt; of the higher power/torque which allows the vehicle to accelerate quicker without &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9388/4152&quot;&gt;lugging the engine&lt;/a&gt;. Once the vehicle has sped up to the point where it would normally be within the power/torque band, then the clutch would be allowed to be entirely engaged so the vehicle can speed up to the point where it should be upshifted to the next higher gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the clutch is fully engaged (no slippage occurring), in any given gear, the engine RPM to vehicle speed ratio will be constant and very predictable. Here is a chart which &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; describes how it is for a 5-speed Mitsubishi Mirage (other vehicles will be similar, but different):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LG905.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LG905.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are slipping the clutch, engine speed will probably stay relatively constant while the vehicle speeds up. This means it is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;non-linear&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;not predictable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You can again assume the vehicle speed will increase, but by how much and how quickly all depends upon &lt;em&gt;how engaged the clutch is&lt;/em&gt; as well as how much power/torque the vehicle you are testing has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculated engine load will be unchanged, as that is a factor of throttle position and engine speed. External load will be unchanged ... but I don't believe this is the type of load you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is of note it is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; bad to slip the clutch for an extended period of time. This creates a very large amount of frictional heat buildup within the clutch assembly (friction disk, pressure plate, and flywheel). This has a tendency to cause premature clutch failure and heat cracks within the flywheel. It also puts an enormous amount of stress on the throwout bearing as it is being used continuously while the clutch pedal is depressed to any extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T15:45:25.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25720" CreationDate="2016-02-05T16:23:44.833" Score="6" ViewCount="21352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be doing a carb rebuild this weekend on an 84 Ranger. The truck doesn't have a tach, but I'll be needing to read the RPMs to properly adjust the carb once its rebuilt. Is there a way of getting this information without having to install a tach? There is no obd/obd2 port either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9376" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T21:30:37.483" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T21:30:37.483" Title="Checking the motor's RPM without an in-dash tach" Tags="|rpm|tachometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25719" CreationDate="2016-02-05T16:43:34.127" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options out there.  There are meters that clip onto the ignition system that show the engine RPMs that are quite simple and cheap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDOvv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDOvv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00062YUUS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tach meter at Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for example...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also pick up a &quot;timing light&quot; that has a tachometer function.  Either of these tools have other purposes for a shade tree mechanic, so find one that you think you will use the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another option is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001N4QY66&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;digital, optical tachometer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use a laser to bounce off of a reflective object (like the blade of a fan) to measure RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m6U0b.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m6U0b.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All products and images for illustrative purposes only.  I've never used those in particular.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T16:43:34.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25719" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:04:52.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what JPhi1618 said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set any standard tach up with clips.  I did this with a cheap tach when tuning my truck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have 4 wires - positive, ground, signal, light.  &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Positive and light go to the positive side of the battery with a fuse.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ground goes to the negative side of the battery or an unpainted part of the engine/body.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Signal goes to the coil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can't remember off the top of my head which side of the coil the signal goes to.  I think its the positive side.  The tach will work when you connect it to the correct side.  You will not damage it by connecting it to the wrong side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a dwell/tach meter.  These are useful because they typically work in a range of 0-1000, so you can more accurately see the RPM you are trying to achieve.  A dwell/tach is best if you have points and need to set the dwell also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T17:04:52.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25723" CreationDate="2016-02-05T19:37:57.730" Score="6" ViewCount="5413" Body="&lt;p&gt;With (standard) spring shock absorbers like this one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFG8R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFG8R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's inside the body of the piston part? Is there some kind of fluid inside or is it just air and empty space for the piston to thrust into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the spring that bears all of force whilst the piston shaft is merely there to position the spring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14866" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T19:45:47.350" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T01:34:00.110" Title="What's inside a spring shock absorber?" Tags="|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25722" CreationDate="2016-02-05T19:50:30.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shock you have shown is called a &quot;&lt;em&gt;coil over shock absorber&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. The shock which is located in the center of the spring, functions just like any other shock absorber. It will most likely have hydraulic oil with baffles. It may or may not be gas charged. The shock casing is made stronger than a regular shock, mainly to support the spring. You'll also notice the threads on the body, which makes it adjustable. You can vary the ride height of your vehicle by screwing the spring perch up or down on the shock body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real reason for this type of shock is to eliminate the stock spring on a vehicle. This makes for a more compact fit within the footprint of what would normally just be the shock. It might allow the owner to put a different type of axle under the vehicle or allow space for wider tires. It might also just be used for an aesthetic look the owner is going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:50:30.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25709" CreationDate="2016-02-05T20:13:44.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to figure out which wire goes to which, an easy way to figure this out is to have a source which produces 12vdc and has the two leads for (+) and (-) with probes attached, plus a pad and pencil to mark down what is what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have your 12v source and other supplies to get started, take the bulb section out of the housing so it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD27n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD27n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your probes to figure out which is which. While this may not hold true in your case, Start by putting the negative (-) probe on the connection which would match to where the black wire goes to the prong inside the housing (where the connector inserts to the light bar). Black or green are usually universally used as the ground/earth. This may not hold true for the Mini, but it's a good starting point. Next place the positive lead to any other prong inside the housing to see if something lights up. If something does light up, you are in pretty good shape. Write down what you've discovered. If nothing lights up, then your negative probe is probably in the wrong spot. You will need to try a different combination until you get something to light. Use this trial and error method to figure out what connects to what and write it all down. When you've figure out what is what, you'll have created a map for the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same basic method can be used in many different situations. Just know, you aren't going to blow anything up in the process, even if you put the power in the wrong direction. It shouldn't light if it is backwards, but it won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T20:13:44.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25690" CreationDate="2016-02-05T20:43:32.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by being low on refrigerant.  Before the refrigerant enters the expansion valve next to the evaporator, the refrigerant needs to be in liquid form so that it can expand and perform its cooling function.  There needs to be a continuous supply of liquid from the condenser to ensure that refrigerant in gas form does not reach the evaporator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the refrigerant is under charged, the supply of liquid refrigerant can run out and you end up with gas entering the evaporator which you hear in the passenger compartment as a whooshing noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T20:43:32.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25729" CreationDate="2016-02-05T21:24:21.527" Score="3" ViewCount="2459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start off by saying this is NOT the sound of the engine, even though it does sound like a sports car engine, this is how my engine sounds &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/l33msAzBg5k?t=178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/l33msAzBg5k?t=178&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: Citroen C4, Petrol 1.4L 2005, 69k Miles on the clock. Born and raised and still roams the UK roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPP19-lMBZY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video for reference (shot 30 mins ago)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound occurs when I'm doing over 20 mp/h. Bellow 20 mp/h Its either too quiet for me to hear or non existent altogether. Between 20-25 its hearable but still not that bad. Above 25 its quite noisy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's coming from the front wheels or their neighbouring parts. When doing 30-40 and turning left, and having the steering wheel above 30 degrees the sounds muffles quite a bit, to almost gone, but going straight or right, its there and it's very noisy. Having a read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/03/30/quick-guide-to-diagnosing-differential-driveline-noises/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, it seams it's one of these, but I have no idea which one. The car went trough &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfordsautocentres.com/advice/servicing-advice/car-servicing-whats-included&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Major servicing&lt;/a&gt; a month and a half ago. They changed one of the tires as it was very worn. The sound was there before the service, and was still there after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is always correlated with speed - bellow 20 Mph no noise. I can rev the engine at 9000 RPMs standing still in the parking - doesn't matter. It's only there when doing 20 Mph+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'll get a much better answer combined with solution right away at any car servicing, but I'd rather know what I'm getting into, and how much it will cost me in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastEditorUserId="13673" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T21:33:08.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T22:34:10.790" Title="What is this noise from the front (tires or such)" Tags="|noise|citroen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25727" CreationDate="2016-02-05T21:39:08.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sound reminds me of an issue I've had before.  I'm not sure how, but the plastic fender liner on the right front had come loose.  Just looking at it, you couldn't tell there was an issue, but when driving, the force of the wind would pull the fender back and make it rub against the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't figure out what it was until the tire finally wore a hole in the fender and the bottom piece broke off.  I saw it flying off in my rear view mirror after hearing a clunk, and then noticed it missing when I inspected the fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't my fender, but gives you and idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt2Lz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rt2Lz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fender liner had a &quot;duck-bill&quot; type extension like the one on the right of that image.  It had come loose and would flap over and press against the tire at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story:  Look for loose fender parts or covers in the wheel wells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T21:49:22.927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T21:49:22.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25727" CreationDate="2016-02-05T22:34:10.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It kind of sounds like a wheel bearing or something rubbing on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a visual inspection of all fender linings and inspect your tires for uneven wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a wheel jacked up and supported spin the wheel by hand while holding the spring. A bad bearing will transmit vibrations through the spring. Or it will be obviously loose when shaking the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T22:34:10.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25674" CreationDate="2016-02-05T22:45:02.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the ETCS fuse in the underhood fuse box more than likely it's blown. It should be an ATM-10 fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T22:45:02.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25734" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:06:13.940" Score="3" ViewCount="4905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night, the passenger-side tail-light on my step-daughter's 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES went out.  After determining that the bulb was OK, we looked in the fuse box, and saw that one of the two 7.5 amp fuses for the tail lights was blown.  A replacement fuse immediately popped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, we attempted to diagnose it with a VOM, and got some puzzling results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the battery disconnected, both fuses pulled and the head-lamp switch in the off position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I read 0 Ohms across the terminals of the tail-light bulb socket (with bulb removed.) This immediately made me think &quot;the positive side is shorting to ground somewhere between this bulb socket, and the head-lamp switch on the steering column&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, I also read 0 Ohms across the terminals of the (separate) turn signal bulbs, which are working just fine!  They use a different fuse, and turn signals/hazards were not engaged at the time, so that 0 Ohm reading really confused me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At that point my step-daughter drove off to run an errand, and when she came back the other tail-light was out.  By this point that second 7.5 amp fuse was blown.   After disconnecting the battery again, I checked ohmage between the positive terminals of both fuse sockets, and measured 0.  I did the same thing for the negative terminals of both fuse sockets, and also measured 0.  This lead me to believe that the 2 tail-light fuses are wired in parallel together, which IIRC means they effectively act together as a 15 amp fuse? ... That also makes no sense, because if they were co-redundant, I'd have expected both tail-lights to continue shining so long as at least one of those fuses was still good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be approaching this problem in some other way?   (And, for bonus points, can anyone explain the oddities described above?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="12281" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T23:20:00.117" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:48:31.090" Title="How to diagnose blown tail lamp fuse" Tags="|fuse|tail-lights|short|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25722" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:09:28.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand upon Paulsters answer, the middle part is often called a damper in the UK as often as it's called a shock absorber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is a good word as it dampens the springs. Ideally, the weight of the car sits on the spring part, but without the shock you'd be bouncing up and down for the whole journey! So the damper simply dampens the spring back to neutral. A quick test to tell if your shocks are damaged is to push down on the corner of the car and it should just bounce up once, if you get some bobbing then they're probably worn... Or you have a non German spine breaking ride! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T23:09:28.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25709" CreationDate="2016-02-06T00:17:22.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue Green is the indicator wire for the left rear, blue brown for the right rear. Assuming USDM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:17:22.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25731" CreationDate="2016-02-06T00:48:31.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parking lamp/headlight switch applies power or ground so the circuit would be open if you were testing with the switch off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same with the turn signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tail lights are on separate circuits. They don't share a ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car have an aftermarket trailer harness? If not your going to have to remove panels and visually inspect the harness for rub through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car have an aftermarket radio? If so inspect the wiring behind the radio for short to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fair use... right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/chBTx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/chBTx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T00:48:31.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25708" CreationDate="2016-02-06T02:10:18.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That seems like an unlikely scenario. You could try applying pressure against it if you can fit a screwdriver between the pan and plug while loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9705" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T02:10:18.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:18:12.773" Score="4" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is driving me crazy but I do not understand what triggers the headlight washers? Looks like sometimes when I turn on windshield washer, I see mist above my hood and I imagine that it is coming from the headlight washers being engaged. But still cannot seem to figure out how exactly do I trigger them exclusively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="14341" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:06:34.527" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:06:34.527" Title="How to trigger headlight washers on 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5)" Tags="|audi|s4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16596" CreationDate="2016-02-06T04:23:42.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your belief is in alignment with how older vehicles(without engine control units) work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You need to understand &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Overrun&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; condition:A condition in which vehicle drives the engine. Refer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advanced-driving.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=37919#p37919&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr Cholmondeley-Warner's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind,engine movement must not stop. It should be either driven by fuel or by vehicle momentum.Or else we need to crank again to restart the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When gear is engaged in downhill, vehicle drives the engine.So fuel will be cutoff by control unit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When shifted to neutral, fuel must be burnt to keep engine running.So fuel supply will be ensured by engine control unit to maintain idle speed of engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T04:23:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19072" CreationDate="2016-02-06T06:15:48.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;have you checked the Throttle Position Sensor, MAS Air Flow Sensor, have you cleaned your Throttle Body Unit ?, have you checked &amp;amp; cleaned your EGR Valve,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T06:15:48.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T10:36:01.923" Score="5" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend owns a five year old Skoda Fabia, which he uses once in a month or two as he goes out of the town frequently. His car is fully covered while it is parked in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently when he took his car out for a drive, there was no odor but he found a white powder like substance on the steering wheel. Could that be dust or something else ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could this happen when the car is fully covered? How to maintain the car's interior during these times? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14525" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T12:16:02.220" Title="How to maintain a car's interior when left unused?" Tags="|maintenance|car|skoda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2016-02-06T12:21:53.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the way to trigger the headlight washers is to &lt;strong&gt;just hold the main washers longer&lt;/strong&gt;. That would mean to me they cannot be triggered exclusively. If you don't actually &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; the little things, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/573033-Headlight-washers?s=7a3c09a5eb0006aaab4982418b07910d&amp;amp;p=9320708&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post9320708&quot;&gt;way to code them out&lt;/a&gt; from the hidden menu if you have access to VAG COM. Change the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Set Headlight washer - Duration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[09 – Cent. Elect.] &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[Security Access - 16] [Adaptation - 10] -&gt; Channel 6 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;change to e.g. 500 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set Headlight washer - Cycles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[09 – Cent. Elect.] &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[Security Access - 16] [Adaptation - 10] -&gt; Channel 26 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;change to e.g. 10 &#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T12:21:53.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25681" CreationDate="2016-02-06T13:59:08.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;..So it looks like after 4 trips to the garage we do have a solution. It was the inlet manifold butterfly flap. It was getting stuck in the closed position intermittently after the engine was switched off. It's meant to close in order to stop air getting into the engine immediately after switching off the engine, then after a few seconds it opens again. Mine however wasn't aligned properly and was sticking closed. Anyway, valve was replaced and so far the car starts every time. Common problem apparently with the 2.0 tdci smax. Hope this helps others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14845" LastEditorUserId="14845" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T10:51:28.220" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T10:51:28.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24257" CreationDate="2016-02-06T15:00:01.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, in the automotive world, there are two different types of dynamometer (or dyno for short) which might be used: chassis dyno; engine dyno. I'll discuss the &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; procedures for each type of dyno. Every dyno operator has their own procedure and will operate it how they see fit. You have to allow for this mainly because it's their dyno, they paid for it, and they have to pay to have it fixed if something goes wrong. Let them do their thing and you'll be golden. You'll find by reading this answer, though, you may want to &lt;em&gt;ask questions&lt;/em&gt; of how they do operate their dyno to ensure you get the best (and most accurate) results possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chassis Dyno&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I wrote in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24294/4152&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; there are several types of chassis dynos. I won't rehash that here. In general, a chassis dyno is the type where you drive your car onto it to get the readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the most accurate readings from the dyno, you car should be fully warmed up to include the drive train. I've read that there can be as great as 1.5% increase in the power/torque readings between a cold drive train and one that is fully warmed. It's also a good idea as a dyno test is very stressful on an engine and vehicle, so having it warmed up only makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll do (after you've found they dyno you're going to use and have set the appointment) when you get to your dyno appointment is to pull up onto the dyno equipment with your drive wheels on the roller. The operator will either have you do it and guide you where to stop, or they will do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the vehicle has been correctly located onto the roller(s), you should then set the e-brake, turn the ignition off, and pop the hood. The operators will then set to placing tie down straps to hold the vehicle in place as well as placing chocks on both side of the non-driven tires. They will also place their electronic measuring equipment on your vehicle, such as a sensor off of your sparkplug wire to get engine RPM and a ground wire. If you've opted for a wide-band O2 (lambda) measurements for tuning, they'll get that hooked up as well. They'll also place a fan in front of the radiator to ensure a good air flow over the radiator to prevent overheating your vehicle.  If your vehicle has traction control, you'll need to turn that off. More than likely, the ABS light (if your car is equipped) will come on during the run. That will go off when it's back on the road, so should be of no worries to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is tied down, connected, and in place, they are going to have you start your car and get it rolling on the dyno, most likely to 15-20mph. This will center the vehicle on the rollers. Then they'll check all the straps and connections to ensure your vehicle is secure. You wouldn't want your vehicle to go skyrocketing off of the dyno because it isn't! (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/pTV_-jKKTD4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's some dyno failures for you.&lt;/a&gt; There are &lt;em&gt;plenty more&lt;/em&gt; out there to watch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you'll start your dyno runs. It's usually good to get (at least) three runs in to make sure the numbers you are seeing are about the same. This will ensure an accurate reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manual Cars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles will be tested in the 1:1 (direct drive) trans gear ratio as this yields the best results. All dyno pulls (a pull is a single run) are made at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) from any beginning RPM to the redline of the engine. When any single pull is finished, the vehicle should be clutched, put in neutral, and given time for the wheels to spin down. The dyno has it's own braking system so there is no need to apply the vehicle brakes ... just let it do it's thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Automatic Cars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these cars will be tested in 1:1 trans gear ratio. The dyno pull will begin just above the threshold where the vehicle down shifts to 2nd gear at WOT. To start the pull, you find the MPH speed which the vehicle is comfortable at, the operator starts logging data, then the vehicle is brought to WOT and is kept there until the redline. Once at the redline, the gas pedal is released and transmission is put into neutral to prevent engine braking on the dyno. Everything needs to stop spinning and then the vehicle can be put into park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I stated, to ensure you have the best results, there should be three runs made. This determines a good baseline for the vehicle. A typical 3 pull session should take around 15-20 minutes to complete. If you are also getting tuning done on your vehicle, you can expect it to take much longer ... most likely &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; an hour if the tuner is proficient with your type of vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the testing is done, they'll unstrap, detach, and unhook your vehicle and you are back on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Engine Dyno&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are the average Joe-Shmoe, you'll most likely only ever use a chassis dyno. If you are really serious about engine building and getting an engine right before it ever gets into a vehicle, you may want to utilize an engine dyno to measure the power and torque of your engine directly. Strapping it to an engine dyno can also allow you to run-in or break-in an engine prior to it getting into your vehicle. This allows you to do tuning, check general operation, and find any leaks which may be present after rebuild. It is very unusual for a person to pull an engine &lt;em&gt;just to check it on the dyno&lt;/em&gt;. A chassis dyno can do the job with the engine in the vehicle, so it would be an extra effort to do so. Plus it usually costs more to run an engine on a dyno than a vehicle on a chassis dyno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking your engine to be dyno tested, you can just take your engine in to get a baseline power/torque reading, but for the most part you'd take your engine to the dyno to be tuned. I will base the rest of this answer as if the engine was going to be tuned as if you are just going to do break-in and baseline, it will be self-evident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you will want to make sure your engine is ready to go to the dyno for testing. It needs to be complete with everything which it will need in order to run on the dyno. This would include the computer (if so equipped) or carburetor. You'll also need to bring your headers or exhaust manifolds. If you are looking to tune the engine so it will run in the car correctly and at its best, this is important. Engine dyno shops may have exhaust parts which will fit your engine, but their &amp;quot;dyno headers&amp;quot; will most likely not be what you'll be running in your vehicle, so having your own exhaust will give you better results in the end. You'll also want to bring in the type of fuel (make sure to bring more than you'll need) you'll be running in your engine, any nitrous equipment, and whatever spare parts you might have for it. It is a huge waste of time to bring an engine to a dyno just to have your time and money wasted over a $5 part. Also, don't forget your flywheel (or flexplate) and starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the engine is in the dyno facility, they it will usually get set onto some kind of cart which will allow the engine to be easily bolted to the dyno brake. It will also provide a firm foundation so the engine doesn't get loose during the pulls. The engine will then be hooked up so it will be able to run. The power, coolant, fuel, throttle, and exhaust will all get hooked up. They'll also hook up any monitoring equipment which will allow them to see how the engine is doing like a wide band O2 sensor, water temperature, and oil temperature. The fuel you brought will then be put into (most likely) a fuel cell in preparation for the dyno runs. &lt;strong&gt;Double check to make sure there is oil in the crank case!&lt;/strong&gt; Put it in now if you brought the engine completely dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is hooked up and the engine is ready to go, the operator will start the engine and bring it up to operating temperature. Just like with the chassis dyno, the engine is going to run better and be more consistent when it's warmed up. If the engine is brand new, the operator will take the time necessary to break it in. Also if new and after break-in, the engine will be shut down and checked to ensure there's no overt fluid leaking and for general health of the engine. After that, it the engine has cooled down, it will be brought back up to temperature for the dyno session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to tell the operator what the expected redline of your engine is so they can set an upper limit of how high to go with your engine. If you tell them 10k and the engine is only good to 6500, expect to be helping to clean up the dyno room from the shrapnel which was once your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the pulls begin. The operator will monitor how the engine is doing. They will engage the dyno to start recording the pull, then apply throttle smoothly until it get's to WOT, will watch as the RPMs increase to the preset redline, then pull back on the throttle quickly to bring the rpms down. The pull will only take seconds. You can then look at the numbers (ie: power, torque, air/fuel ratios, etc.) to see if things are as they should be. If tuning needs to be done, then now is the time to do it. Depending on how long the tuning takes, you may need to get the engine back up to temperature again before the next pull. You'll continue with the pull and tune until the engine is where it's felt to be running at its best. Then there should be three runs done on the engine to ensure your results are accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much tuning needs to be done, this could be an all day endeavor. It takes a lot of work to get the engine onto the dyno, broke-in, unmounted, and back to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll restate, these are the general procedures for getting your vehicle or engine dyno'd. Every shop can and will do things a little differently. If you are unfamiliar with a shop, call them and ask what their particulars are so you don't get surprises when you get there. Some shops will do the tuning for you, but expect to pay more for those services. The more time you vehicle/engine is strapped to a dyno, the more it's going to cost. Get all of this stuff figured out in advance and you won't be sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T15:00:01.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T15:37:00.560" Score="1" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;my car...UK FORD FUSION 1.6 AUTO.2006.&#xA;  ABS, BRAKE SYSTEM, ENGINE MANAGEMENT warning lights are on, the speedometer is not working and the oddometer is showing dashes.&#xA;Initial checks I have made, including abs sensor checks, fuses, brake fluid level etc, have  been ok.  My research into this problem has highlighted the fact that instrument cluster and  abs module failures are common on ford focus and fusion models. The general opinion seems to be don't go to a ford main dealer to sort the problem out. I have heard of cases where parts have been changed and the fault remains  and customers still expected to pay the bill for the work carried out!&#xA;So, instrument cluster or abs module? how can I be sure. &#xA;I have arranged for a diagnostic check to be carried but I have been advised  it might not highlight which component is faulty.&#xA;Any advice much appreciated.Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14874" LastEditorUserId="14874" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T15:46:37.720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T15:46:37.720" Title="instrument cluster warning lights" Tags="|ford|warning-light|fusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T15:40:36.587" Score="3" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery connection got loose and the radio system got shut off. I fixed the connection by tightening the battery cable (not sure how this happened as my car gets serviced at a honda dealer only). Now everything is good but the radio got locked for this annoying theft protection thingy so I took it to a dealer. They said they couldn't unlock the radio. The radio was working fine until that incident. I came home I tried the radio code on the sticker but it didn't work. When I try to verify the s/n by pressing the preset buttons 1 and 6 at the same time and turning on the audio power but that didn't do the trick. It says &quot;S/N no code&quot;. Am I stuck to replace the unit or what? I heard it's expensive and not fair to spend thousands for this type of software logic errors. I bought a brand new car so hard to imagine the radio code and sn on the sticker being wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14875" LastEditorUserId="14875" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T16:09:28.550" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T23:01:34.667" Title="Honda Odyssey ex-l res anti theft radio code issue" Tags="|honda|audio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T17:13:08.900" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 mini with a r56. the loss of power light comes on when I step on it. I know the PCV valve is bad on it and can set this light. I also have a rear main seal leak so the turbo has to come of, 160k miles on it and has a ticking noise should I while it's off replace it or does the turbo make any noise already? Another route is turbo rebuild and clean. Possibility? And any video of pulling the r56 for reference would be helpful I've been looking online there is not a lot of help in that Era of mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14581" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T17:13:08.900" Title="R56 mini cooper turbo sounds" Tags="|turbocharger|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2017-02-21T01:14:14.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25485" CreationDate="2016-02-06T17:25:05.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Homogeneous Operation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel is injected during the intake stroke&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mode of operation is similar to port-injection in that air and fuel are mixed homogeneously to achieve a stoichiometric ratio, albeit with some important differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is no mixing of air and fuel across the intake valve.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In vanilla GDI setups, the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber. Consequently, the intake valve does not play a role in the mixing of air and fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In fact, some manufacturers have found GDI engines suffering carbon build-up problems on the intake valves due to the lack of fuel hitting the backs of the valves)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is much less time for the mixing to take place.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With port-injection, fuel can be injected throughout 720° crankshaft rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GDI demands a much narrower injection window (180° crankshaft rotation - induction stroke only).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel pressure is much, much higher&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The narrower injection window demands this in order to deliver the required amount of fuel in less time. This brings an additional benefit of increased combustion chamber turbulence, which helps to promote more complete air-fuel mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stratified-Charge Operation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel is injected during the compression stroke&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many ways, this operating mode goes against the grain of common thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than focus on getting a thoroughly-mixed, uniform air-fuel mixture, the idea here is to get just a fraction of the intake air to interact with the fuel around the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By stratifying the charge, the ignition timing can also be delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Less risk of engine knock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The excess air surrounding the air-fuel charge (&quot;stratified&quot; charge) helps to cool down the combustion chamber, reducing the likelihood of knocking, enabling higher compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fuel-savings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mode allows the engine to sip fuel. It allows for delayed spark ignition without the risk of engine knock, which results in higher torque for a given amount of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mode of operation is ideal for part-throttle conditions, such as when cruising at steady-speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T20:15:08.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T20:15:08.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T18:47:31.903" Score="2" ViewCount="7461" Body="&lt;p&gt;What oil should I use for this car?&#xA;How do I know when I should change the oil for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T19:28:28.630" Title="What oil should I use for Hyundai Sonata 2004?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T18:59:24.780" Score="1" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my oil changed on my 2004 Buick Century.&#xA;Does overfilling the oil level harm the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14877" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T19:39:16.313" Title="Overfilling the oil level" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-07T12:18:08.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25748" CreationDate="2016-02-06T19:28:28.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://carmanuals2.com/get/hyundai-sonata-2004-owner-s-manual-33548&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt;, it depends on the climate you live in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+----------------------------------+------------------------------------+&#xA;|             Climate              |             Oil Grade              |&#xA;+----------------------------------+------------------------------------+&#xA;| Hot (ABOVE 32°F OR 0°C)          | SAE 20W-40, SAE 20W-50             |&#xA;| Normal (ABOVE -10°F OR -23°C)    | SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 10W-50 |&#xA;| Cold (BELOW 100°F OR 38°C) [sic] | SAE 5W-30, SAE 5W-40               |&#xA;+----------------------------------+------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the cold climate temperature range should really say &quot;Below -10°F&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quantities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 4-cylinder engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;without filter: 4.0 L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with filter: 4.3 L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 2.7 V6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;without filter: 4.2 L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with filter: 4.5 L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T19:28:28.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40442" CreationDate="2016-02-06T19:52:55.603" Score="7" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z45fM2N-4C4&quot;&gt;learning about the Atkinson cycle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my limited research, it seems that if I have ability to remap variable valve timing and fueling on a gasoline engine running simple Otto-cycle, I can reap the benefits of the modern Atkinson cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my research, it seems like the following things would have to be addressed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the intake valve lift duration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce the amount of fuel injected to maintain AFR's where they should be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else that needs to be accounted for? Would one need to modify spark advance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about impact on emissions control mechanisms like EGR?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any hardware changes necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T02:45:43.310" Title="Could I implement the modern Atkinson cycle on a petrol engine with variable valve timing?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25760" CreationDate="2016-02-06T20:40:36.067" Score="23" ViewCount="7205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z3x_kYq3mHM&quot;&gt;this video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; which basically shows the guy replacing a larger capacitors with some smaller capacitors which he had bought. The larger capacitors were actually in place of a worn out battery. Both capacitor packs were giving him the needed voltage to start his vehicle and appear to be working quite fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can a capacitor work in place of a car battery? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does a capacitor work in the first place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any modifications you have to do in order to use a capacitor instead of a battery?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would there be any benefits to using a capacitor over a battery?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It appears in the video the capacitors are charging right back up to 14.1vdc. How long will a capacitor hold it's charge (in general terms - I know this is dependent upon the parasitic drain put on it from the vehicle in the first place)? I guess the better question is, &lt;em&gt;will the capacitor hold enough charge over time to support starting the vehicle&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T13:27:47.170" LastActivityDate="2024-01-05T17:58:08.477" Title="Replace car batteries with capacitors?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T21:39:42.247" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at buying a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cars-data.com/en/honda-shuttle-2.3i-es-specs/17172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;98 Honda Shuttle&lt;/a&gt; with a broken right side axle, and was wondering what other damage I should keep my eyes open for which might normally be seen together with a broken axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T21:45:13.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T21:45:13.827" Title="What Damage may Accompany a Broken Axle" Tags="|honda|suspension|axle|odyssey|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25749" CreationDate="2016-02-06T23:14:13.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most engines the surface of the oil in the oil pan is close to the crankshaft. If the oil is overfilled to the point that the crankshaft hits the oil, it can cause the oil to form foam. This will in turn decrease the efficiency of the oil pump, which will be pumping a mixture of air and oil. This means that parts that depend on the oil pump for lubrication won't be getting as much oil as they're designed to work with, which will cause premature wear.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; I'm not sure why the downvote, as this is a perfectly valid and accurate description of what happens when the crankshaft hits the surface of the oil and agitates it. For references: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1765/foaming-in-oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article describes oil-lubricated machines in general; &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2148839/overfilling-oil-worst-case-scenario&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is from Car Talk; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=E5q1JsN3xA0C&amp;amp;pg=PA60&amp;amp;lpg=PA60&amp;amp;dq=crankshaft+causing+foam+in+oil&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=baxIZhlRF3&amp;amp;sig=WovnGlsttR5yQFqEEpGIjtJmcoI&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiAzsCUq-bKAhVBFGMKHWmBBT4Q6AEIKTAC#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=crankshaft%20causing%20foam%20in%20oil&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a Google books excerpt describing how the crankshaft can agitate the oil thus causing foaming. It is the paragraph under &lt;b&gt;Oxidation Inhibitors&lt;/b&gt; and describes how foaming can cause tar formation, which I omitted from my original post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T19:39:16.313" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T19:39:16.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:30:36.727" Score="5" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 12 V air compressor at my car for air suspension which I understand is draining around 30-35 A. The problem what I have is overheating and eventually burning the pressure switch and connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I redesign this to avoid burning pressure switch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15137" OwnerDisplayName="Edmond Dragut" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T00:01:36.173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T13:39:31.630" Title="Burning air pressure switch" Tags="|electrical|relay|air-compressor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25755" CreationDate="2016-02-05T18:44:27.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power of your compressor is given by &lt;strong&gt;P = V x I = 12 x 30 = 360 W&lt;/strong&gt;. This sounds about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your compressor is badly made and that the pressure switch is not adequate for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to modify like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4c5M.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Figure 1. Relay control of compressor motor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rewire the unit as shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a 12 V relay rated for &gt; 40 A. Your local car parts shop should have something suitable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the pressure is low the switch will close and energise the relay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relay will power the motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the pressure is high the pressure switch will open and the relay will turn off. This will turn off the motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pressure switch will run cool because there is only the relay coil current passing through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use heavy gauge wire for the motor contacts. The relay coil can be light gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iNAP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iNAP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Figure 2. 12 V relay found by OP. Terminal numbers used on Figure 1.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14479" OwnerDisplayName="transistor" LastEditorUserId="14479" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T13:39:31.630" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T13:39:31.630" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25749" CreationDate="2016-02-07T00:13:07.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can run into a few problems with over-filling your engine oil. It depends on how much you overfilled your oil pan. A half a quart over is ok. If you put an entire quart or more over, this could be a real problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you over-fill to that extent it can cause issues with gaskets being subjected to pressures they were not designed to be subjected to. There could also be various bearings and moving components such as your connecting rods and rod bearings that don't necessarily need to be soaked in oil to function. Over-filling could actually hinder their function.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-filling can also hinder the function of hydraulic components like VTEC on many Hondas. &#xA;You can also Over-Fill the pan until the point of touching the bottom of your pistons. They will burn oil if filled too much. You could end up with sediment and by-product in the cylinders do to this. &#xA;This is just a few examples of what can happen if you over-fill your oil pan. There are many more negative things that could result from this. I hope this helps you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T00:13:07.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23555" CreationDate="2016-02-07T02:59:13.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of inspiration can be had from either the Yamaha or Kawasaki side by sides.  If you have the time and inclination, go to your neighborhood Yamaha or Kawie dealership (they might be the same one), and speak to someone in the service department.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all reality, your coolant system needs to maintain a certain pressure, a pressure tester can be used.  The other consideration is the locations of the 2 radiators: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they getting enough airflow to do their job, are they blocking airflow to the engine itself (passive cooling) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are they trapping heat?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might very well be able to get away with just a single radiator with appropriate air flow.  Since you are, I am guessing, an engineering student, some possible experimental methods can be used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example: aluminum tubing with cooling fins to and from the engine.  If the engine is mid-mounted and the radiator up front, rubber hoses to the tubing.  Beyond all that, the 3 biggest components that absolutely need to function are the radiator cap (regulates system pressure), the water pump, and the thermostat.  The thermostat has responsibilities, speed up warm up, and maintain engine temperature in the optimal range.  If the engine is to be completely enclosed, you might want to consider an oil cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles that use two radiators for the coolant system are slow moving and need more active cooling due to a lack of passive cooling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T12:34:00.320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:34:00.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2016-02-07T03:37:13.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you are at the dealership, invest in an Owner's Manual.  It will outline all the things needed to be done to store it for winter or inclement weather times as well as removing it from storage.  The other thing to invest in is a battery tender.  It will prolong the life of your battery and save you money in the long run.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing that has not been mentioned so far was checking the tires for cracking.  IF they are, they will need to be replaced.  You only have 2, and they are your only contact with the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T03:37:13.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25752" CreationDate="2016-02-07T05:04:13.967" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes its possible to start a car with Ultra capacitors. These caps don't appear to have a cycle life that the traditional lead acid batteries have. The ability of these caps to provide starting current is very good. There are a couple of snags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The caps at present are more pricey than the best lead acid batteries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The caps are strung in series to get the nominal 12V which is fine when you use 6 of them rated at 2.7V each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use them on old cars with a generator and electromechanical regulator because their voltages simply are not accurate by modern standards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would be wise to include some balancing electronics to keep the voltage on any cap below 2.7V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all not too bad so far but this is why I have not done this yet. The ultra cap has brilliant power density but bad energy density compared to the lead acid. It's like comparing strength to endurance. Modern cars that have decent charging systems are likely to have higher sneak currents that occur when the key is off. In other words you would be more likely to find that your car won't start after not being used for a couple of weeks. However charging them fast is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T09:56:14.350" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T09:56:14.350" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2016-02-07T06:29:07.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just removed a very rusted exhaust flange bolt from the bottom of the &quot;Y&quot; section on a Nissan 350Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had already broken the joint with the center section. To do this I cut the nut/bolts  with an angle grinder, which left two useless stubs of a rusted bolts in the &quot;Y&quot; section. I drilled out one of the stubs which took hours of effort using a Cobalt drill bit. When I recovered the offending stub (or what was left of it) I saw that it was located into the flange using a &quot;toothed&quot; taper, which prevents the bolt from turning when tightening the nut on the joint. This is obviously why there's no hex' head on these bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the taper was short and not too shallow, I thought I'd try to press the other stud out, rather than drill it. Most other sites suggest using copious heat / bashing techniques to remove, but the following is THE BEST and QUICKEST METHOD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a long - reach and sturdy Ball Joint splitter, and locate the &quot;forks&quot; either side of the head of the stud. The forks must be clear of the head. Tighten the bolt on the splitter, and put some metal between the actuating arm and the tip of the protruding stud. This ensures all the force is transmitted to the stud. Tighten the splitter bolt and within a few minutes, yes MINUTES, there will be a loud crack, and out from the flange will pop the offending stud !! Clean as a whistle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves a perfect hole ready for a new (this time stainless steel) bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14883" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T08:56:08.517" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T08:56:08.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25745" CreationDate="2016-02-07T06:54:04.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask the dealer if the radio is programmable and if service bulletin 10-081 applies to this model. That is the only thing that has not been tried that I can think of. The serial number is usually on the units label. The unit must be removed to read it. It can be used to obtain the security code, in case the code was incorrect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had these radios take a few tries to accept the security code. I have not had one not have a serial number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T06:54:04.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25765" CreationDate="2016-02-07T07:26:07.920" Score="7" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a show and their project was adding a bolt on turbo kit. In the process they mentioned that they needed a colder spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does a hot or cold spark plug mean? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What changes between a hot or cold plug? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a difference in the spark between a hot and cold plug? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T09:51:16.163" Title="What is spark plug heat range" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T08:26:56.380" Score="6" ViewCount="40216" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a nissan march 2003 (K12). when i turn on the headlights, it loose its engine power. alternator and battery are ok. anybody knows what would be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;additional info (02/09/16):&lt;/strong&gt; lets say i'm running at 100kph on the motorway and when i turn on the headlights, the speed is dropping and i can feel the engine is loosing power. even the accelerator pedal is already floored. this happens even i turn on the park light. if i only use the aircon during daytime, it is running smoothly. i also notice when headlight is on, the gear shifts fast compared if the lights off (headlight or park light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgHMy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgHMy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPR8y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPR8y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyYNZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyYNZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H0WE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H0WE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14885" LastEditorUserId="14885" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T21:22:42.123" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T09:11:07.137" Title="Loss of engine power when using headlights" Tags="|engine|nissan|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25763" CreationDate="2016-02-07T09:51:16.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spark plug heat range refers to how well the center electrode conducts heat to the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cttni.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cttni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hot plug can't conduct the heat very well that is what makes them hot, they can't cool themselves. A cold plug conducts heat well, by moving heat away quickly the spark plug stays cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIo4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIo4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need to control the temperature of the center electrode comes from the need to keep the center electrode clean. There are three general temperature ranges. If the temperature of the center electrode is too cool, deposits will build up on the electrode. If the temperature of the center electrode is too high then there is a chance for igniting the air fuel mixture prematurely. If the temperature is just right then the spark plug cleans off the deposits without preignition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The subject of heat range comes up when performance modifications are made to an engine. It is common for these modifications to increase the combustion temperature. With the increased combustion temperature a colder spark plug is needed to make sure that the center electrode doesn't get too hot and allow preignition does not occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T09:51:16.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:32:34.390" Score="7" ViewCount="2088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24931/14003&quot;&gt;an issue recently&lt;/a&gt; which may or may not be related to this other problem that I have been having regarding the heating element in the left wing mirror on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBTdp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBTdp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have that with the switch in the above position, only the right wing mirror was becoming clearer. Sure enough, when I got out in a car park to have a closer look at them I noticed that the right wing mirror was indeed warm (as it should be) but the left one was still cold and harder to see as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9IfFW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9IfFW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left Wing Mirror&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the heating element in that mirror broken?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, is it an easy fix?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping that this is not the case and that I can kill two birds with one stone by just replacing the switch (which is probably the cause of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24931/14003&quot;&gt;other issue&lt;/a&gt; I was having) but at this point I really don't know if that would fix both of my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:20:02.447" Title="2004 VW Passat B5.5 - Is one of my heated wing mirrors actually broken?" Tags="|vw|door|passat|switches|wing-mirrors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25764" CreationDate="2016-02-07T12:43:35.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;my first guess would be that there is a problem with your idle air control valve. when you turn on extra loads like headlights or the rear defrost it is the IAC which rev up the engine to compensate for the extra load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T12:43:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25419" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:46:52.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Power &amp;lt;-&gt; torque relation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the relation between power an torque is a simple formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power[kW] = Torque[Nm] * RPM * π / 30,000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means that you can always calculate the one curve from the other in torque/power diagrams (That's also what the dynamometer does)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So, why are always both curves plotted, if they are more or less the same?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This diagram shows a few curves of five theoretical motors: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ve10l.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ve10l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each motor has a torque of 350Nm at 8000RPM (and so the same peak power at that RPM), and each motor has a peak torque of 450Nm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal driver uses the range up to 3000RPM on the street, so his best choice is motor #2 followed by #1. Those would give best acceleration at moderate RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a race where the motor runs at very high RPM, you'd better chose #5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This evaluation can be done with both curves - power and torque, because they show more or less the same quantity. &lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt; the torque curves show the differences much clearer than the power curves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the power curves (can) show some interesting details. The power of #4 &lt;em&gt;decreases&lt;/em&gt; between 4000 and 5000RPM. Another point is that usually, max power is not at max RPM, and you want to know at what RPM it is, and how it behaves around that RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why does the power still increase though the torque already decreases with RPM at some point?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you have a 50kg weight which you lift by pulling a rope which runs over a pulley at the ceiling. The force you have to effort is just the gravitational force of the weight when you pull it with constant speed. Since 50kg is quite heavy, you'll lift it very slowly. If the weight is lighter, you need less force, and can lift it faster. Let's say you lift 25kg in 1/3 of the time. This means, in the same time you lift the heavy 50kg weight, you can also lift a total of 3x25kg=75kg.&#xA;Since power is work done per time and you can lift 75kg instead of 50kg in the same time, the power is 50% higher - though you put in only half the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about the same for a motor: At high RPM, it may have less torque (force) during a rev, but since it does more revs in the same time, it can deliver more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What happens in the gear box(es)?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said, power is work done per time. Since power is conserved, the power at the motor shaft equals the power at the wheels. From the formula above one can calculate what happens when the ratio of motor an wheel ratio is different (neglecting any losses):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wheel_torque = Motor_torque * Motor_RPM / Wheel_RPM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my next diagram, I've plotted the wheel torque vs. motor RPM for the six gears of a BMW M3 (365Nm@4900RPM; 252Kw@7900RPM):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKX61.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKX61.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's also possible to draw power and torque vs. speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOR3P.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOR3P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the 365Nm of the motor is transformed to almost 6000Nm (4400lb ft) in first gear. This shows the massive impact of gear ratios as well as wheel dimensions. On the other side, power is always the same at a given RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when you shift into second gear at or around 4900RPM (max torque), you reduce the wheel torque by about 50%. (And when you shift into 3rd later, you loose again about 50%). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, in a race you will shift as late as possible, even if also power already falls, because shifting means a heavy loss in power / torque. (The red area in my plot just marks the RPM range from 4900 to max in first gear to make this clear). However, in an acceleration contest where you start from zero, high torque at low RPM will help, because it's important to get to high speed as fast as possible, and it doesn't matter that much if you still accelerate a little on the last meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in reality there is drag and so which increases with speed, and the only way to overcome it is even more power. Thus, power of course defines top speed, but this example shows that power already plays a role in the range of 50km/h / 30mph, which is not really fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So compare different cars by power or torque?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have seen the massive impact of RPM ratios due to the transmission, and wheel circumference also plays a role. So it's impossible to compare two cars by just looking at their motor torque curve. This only works for a car with several motor options, but same transmission. Power is a little (!) better. Note that the BMW M3 delivers more or less constant max power above 125km/h in 3rd gear, when you shift late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fuel economy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is also a measure of the work the motor does during a single rev. More precisely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Work_per_rev[J]= torque[Nm] * 2π&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we consider that the motor burns always the same amount of fuel per rev (not fully realistic, but OK), i.e. the same chemical energy (work) is released, the ratio of chemical / mechanical work is best when torque is at it's maximum. So, the machine runs most efficient when torque is high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But keep in mind, best fuel efficiency is not equal to best mileage! In case of the BMW M3: Driving at 2000RPM instead of 4000RPM means reducing torque from 340Nm to 290Nm, which is a loss of only 15%, but fuel consumption is reduced by 50%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is why it is recommended to drive at very low RPM for best mileage, though fuel efficiency isn't the best there. However: High torque at lower RPM for sure means better mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, power and torque are two measures of the same thing: The strength of the motor. If you have one curve, you can calculate the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power determines the racing capability and max speed of the car, but also acceleration capability once the motor has reached a higher RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque shows much clearer what acceleration capability the motor has at low RPM, but the torque at the wheel depends on gear ratios and wheel dimension, so it's not that easy to compare. A normal driver would like to have high torque at low RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And please note that I made several assumptions and simplifications here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;About my data&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the motor curves from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/deutschland/photoDetail.html?title=bmw-m3-leistung-und-drehmoment-engine-output-and-torque&amp;amp;docNo=P0003470&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMWs press site&lt;/a&gt;. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.m-forum.de/kalkulator/getriebe/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (unfortunately German) site takes tire dimension, a set of RPM and a BMW model for gear ratios (or custom ratios), and calculates speed at the RPMs in the gears. In my case, the circumference of the wheel is ~2m and the speed is 7.5; 12.9; 19.3; 25.6; 30.1 and 35.1km/h in gears 1-6. This allows to calculate wheel RPM for given motor RPM in a given gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:46:52.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:17:47.827" Score="6" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 Grand Prix is well-maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an oil change it started to consume gas and oil as usual for a week, then started  to shake when idling, and slow and gaging when accelerating and feel like no power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed spark plugs but it's still not working. The tester said misfire on #6, changed all spark plugs but still not working. Please help, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14888" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T18:09:22.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T18:09:22.083" Title="1999 Grand Prix started to consumed gas" Tags="|troubleshooting|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25233" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:35:37.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the cold start portion of the ignition/fuel system is not functioning correctly.  The IACV controls air flow at cold start to give enough air because the engine is not warm enough for optimal combustion, so, you need more fuel and consequently more air to get enough fire to warm up the cold engine components.  That is why it will idle higher on cold starts, somewhere around 1800-2200 RPM.  When things are warmed up enough according to the ECU, it will idle back down.  The IACV may not throw a code, but, the results of it will, like misfires and whatnot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, on startup, hold the throttle open just a hair, like rest your foot on the gas pedal with a slight weight.  If it runs better, it might be the IACV itself or the wiring to/from it.  The colder the air is outside, you may need more air/throttle. Another troubleshooting bit, is to open up everything to get to a point where you can see the IACV, then, have someone turn on and off the ignition from ACC to ON and watch the IACV to see if it moves in and out by a little bit. DO NOT GO BY FEEL as you can DAMAGE the component if it is not already damaged.  You may however be able to feel the little motor from the outside of it move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. The throttle isn't controlling how much fuel you get, it controls the air going in to the engine.  The ECU uses mass air flow, pressure, and temperature to determine the right amount of fuel to use.  If equipped, it will also use a spark knock detector of some sort to adjust ignition timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T17:35:37.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25771" CreationDate="2016-02-07T17:39:55.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may have a coil pack which has gone bad on the #6 cylinder. The easy way to check this is to exchange the coil pack with one of the other two. If the problem follows the coil, then the coil is bad. If the problem stays at the same cylinder, consider your spark plug wire may be at fault. If the coil is what's bad, you'll need a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T17:39:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25764" CreationDate="2016-02-07T18:47:14.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is something to try.  Start the car, then disconnect one of the battery leads.  Should stay running, if it does, turn on the lights.  IF it dies, it is your alternator.  Might have enough strength to keep it running with out too much of a load(without lights, a/c), but not enough with a higher load.  That will also weaken the battery. The cheap way to load test your battery is to hook up a multimeter to it and start your car.  IT shouldn't drop below 9.6vdc.  Check your fluid levels in the battery(can see that it is not a maintenance free/AGM).  IF it is low add only distilled water. Tap water will add minerals that will cause chemical changes inside the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had a similar problem, til one day it barely ran at all and would not charge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T18:47:14.917" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7768" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:00:59.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ferrari V8's have flat-plane crankshafts, which should already give yours a very distinctive exhaust note that I believe is what you're referring to as &quot;rasp&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I don't think a cross-pipe is necessary to improve sound quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your concern pertains to the lack of volume, it can be remedied with use of mufflers that don't suppress sound as much (or no mufflers at all, if you're into that sort of thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to enhance a certain frequency of the exhaust note, the dimensions of the exhaust plumbing and silencer/resonator/muffler placement will influence the end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, you can refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/0837603099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems (Engineering and Performance)&lt;/a&gt;, a well-respected book on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T19:00:59.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T19:39:23.803" Score="5" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attempted to jump my 2000 Dodge Neon off in the dark with a jump pack, and I accidentally reversed the polarity. The tire inflator on the jump pack landed on my positive starter wire and burned it in half. The main fuse was also blown. I have replaced both, but my fuel pump is not turning on, and I am getting no current through the starter wires when I turn the ignition. I have tested the starter, and it is working. The engine will turn over if I run a wire directly from the battery to the starter. What are some places I should start looking to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14889" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:17:09.010" Title="I reversed polarity on a jump pack when attempting to start my 2000 Dodge Neon." Tags="|battery|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25927" CreationDate="2016-02-07T20:41:06.003" Score="10" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I know the order in which the cylinders on a V-engine fire, can I know for sure whether the engine has a cross-plane or flat-plane crankshaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T19:56:55.820" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T00:43:06.437" Title="Is firing order sufficient to tell if a crankshaft is cross-plane or flat-plane?" Tags="|diagnostics|crankshaft|firing-order|cross-plane|flat-plane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T21:24:10.390" Score="11" ViewCount="1096" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2013 Honda Accord EXL the battery died the key fob won't open the door and neither will the manual key what can I do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14892" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T22:06:25.713" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T06:30:52.223" Title="Locked out of my accord" Tags="|honda|electrical|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T21:37:44.067" Score="7" ViewCount="2477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a used 2008 Ford Ranger.  Not long afterwards I began having trouble getting it into gear.  I took it in and the clutch was worn out and needed to be replaced. The slave and master cylinder were replaced as well. I now have a new clutch that works well most of the time but sporadically the clutch stops working and I either have great difficulty shifting gears or cannot get it into gears at all.  This can last for five minutes or a whole day of driving.  Then it goes back to shifting well.  I've brought it back to the mechanic numerous times and he cannot find anything wrong with it.  I am hoping someone may have some insight into this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14893" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T22:38:19.867" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:54:25.470" Title="Manual 2008 Ford Ranger won't go into gear sporadically" Tags="|ford|clutch|shifting|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25780" CreationDate="2016-02-07T21:49:52.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From underneath the car, you may be able to get access to the starter motor.  It is then possible to connect jump leads from a charged battery to the car by connecting the positive lead to the the large connector on the starter motor and the negative lead to a suitable place on the engine.  Once you have power, you may be able to open the car as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T21:49:52.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-07T23:20:39.013" Score="10" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 VW City Jetta. About a month ago, I had a remote car starter installed - big mistake. Upon installation, all passenger automatic windows were no longer responsive from either the driver side control panel or from each of the individual passenger window button. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company who installed the remote starter has gone great lengths to figure out the problem , but to no avail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the things they tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;restarted car controls by disconnecting battery ... This allows all passenger windows to move up and down from each individual bottom... However after about 10 minutes it stops working. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;changed the driver side motor (didn't fix the problem)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;changed the driver side control panel (didn't fix the problem) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;checked the fuse (no issues) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver side control panel works for the driver side window (so the motor is in working order), it can lock all doors, and move all side mirrors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is running off battery and I click the driver side window button, the interior lights will dim (the window will go up / down). When I click the passenger window buttons either from the driver side control panel or each individual button, the interior lights do not dim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's no power to those controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the issue is??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14895" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T07:48:26.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T17:29:03.630" Title="City Jetta Passenger Windows Unresponsive" Tags="|vw|car|power-windows|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T04:45:29.043" Score="5" ViewCount="10997" Body="&lt;p&gt;My radiator got a leakage so I made a direct connection to the fan from the battery i.e. irrespective of the engine temperature the fan would start as soon as you turn on the ignition switch on. It worked fine in summers but in winters the gauge indication barely goes pass the &quot;C&quot; mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think for engine to run smoothly there has to be a normal operating temperature which is usually indicated by the middle point of &quot;C&quot; and &quot;H&quot;. I haven't observed it but I think the fan used to turn on when the needle would go past this middle point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about this or is &quot;the cooler the better&quot;??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: thanks for the responses, but I meant the normal &quot;operating temperature &lt;em&gt;INDICATION&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. Because I cant measure the temperature. Is the operating temperature, people mentioned in the responses, indicated when the needle is exactly in the middle, a lil below that or where?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="10884" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T08:03:26.183" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T08:03:26.183" Title="what is the normal operating temperature indication on the guage?" Tags="|engine|radiator|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T04:49:38.660" Score="12" ViewCount="12706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just got my coolant tank and radiator replaced after a leak in the radiator and a cracked coolant tank. I filled the coolant tank last month and now it is nearly empty. I am just wondering if it is normal to lose a lot (like is it getting into the system) or do I have another leak? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14898" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T04:09:27.677" Title="Losing coolant fast after just fixing radiator" Tags="|coolant|bmw|car|radiator|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26157" CreationDate="2016-02-08T05:02:52.740" Score="5" ViewCount="28976" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car jerks on second gear when I slow down while on second gear and then want to accelerate back. After changing the plugs and air filter it got a bit better but after driving 500+ miles it is back to the same point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a manual transmission carburetor  Suzuki Swift 1996, the saloon model. The idle RPM is set to 0.7 to 0.9k. Got the butterfly valve repaired as well (I think this is responsible for uneven gas intake?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Failing to understand, what could cause this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explaining the jerks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It jerks like sudden continuous thrusts, no knocking sound from engine like when you under gear. The more I press the gas the more jerky it gets, so i release the gas, press the clutch and then time them both to accelerate, as what you do in a pick-up while starting off the car from stop in first gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T23:15:39.953" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:02:44.710" Title="Jerks on 2nd gear at low speed" Tags="|engine|transmission|suzuki|swift|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25829" CreationDate="2016-02-08T05:18:08.143" Score="6" ViewCount="24883" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not like when you try to shift a manual stick without the clutch. But a lot lighter than that varying in amplitude (louder and lower) and probably is only there when the engine is cold (Because I don't seem to observe it after I have driven a few miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How I confirmed?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;On neutral gear, I paddled the gas the sound goes louder but when I press the clutch and then paddle there is no sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does it call for a gear box repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: and yes I could observe this back when I used to turn the A/C on, back then the sound was very low and when I would press the clutch it would disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a gear box repair thing can I delay it? or it would cause nine stitches later on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T23:58:06.757" Title="Weird grinding sound from the gear box" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T09:51:34.080" Score="12" ViewCount="4690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a clutch bleed on my Toyota Corolla e120 2006 because I had some difficulties shifting out of 1st gear, I bled it through the slave cylinder and I noticed the fluid was dark black, I was checking the fluid level of course, after clear fluid was coming without air I closed the valve and now my pedal is soft and doesn't push the slave cylinder at all ... after a lot of searching for the problem I have noticed this on the other side of the master cylinder reservoir&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3BHK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3BHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the fluid doesnt flow into the compartment that goes to the clutch master cylinder (the brake fluid reservoir is common for the brakes and clutch)&#xA;This is how it looks on the left side were I was looking when I was bleeding the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6zziX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6zziX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I have air in the clutch system, and a blocked master cylinder reservoir, what is the best way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14900" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:36:35.557" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T20:45:21.323" Title="Brake fluid doesn't move in the master cylinder container" Tags="|toyota|clutch|corolla|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T09:56:17.807" Score="8" ViewCount="20728" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old starter would click, but not turn the engine over. I got a brand new starter and installed it. The only two wires connected to the starter are completely different and can only be fit in the right spot, so the starter has been installed and wired correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to start: nothing, no click, no noise at all. Battery is good, terminals are good. The solenoid housed inside the starter is good, brand new. Relay: I haven't learned about that yet, but it seems to me the starter is not getting any power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the two connections onto the starter: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are they? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where do they come from? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the path from the battery to the starter? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the starter connections (the clip or plug not the one with the nut) is  connected to something connected to my engine. Is that a ground connection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My starter isn't getting power what causes that not battery, terminals, the devices that the average person doesn't know about, or can anybody tell me where to find any information regarding my problem or where to download the repair manual for a 84 Toyota pickup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey thanks this website is really great with great people.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T15:36:39.923" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:01:00.343" Title="Old starter clicked, wont turn over engine. New starter wont even click - no noise at all" Tags="|electrical|toyota|battery|starting|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:53:09.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend you carry out the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have the starter relay tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the description provided (old starter was clicking) this may actually be fine but it is so easy to verify that it works it would be silly to not rule this out as the source of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After locating the starter relay, have someone turn the key in the ignition to start the car. You should hear the starter relay click. If it doesn't, that would indicate the problem is either with the relay or the ignition switch wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Confirm that you have power to the starter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hook up a multimeter in voltage mode to verify that the solenoid is being powered when the key is turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to verify this is to jump the starter solenoid. If jumping the starter solenoid doesn't crank the starter then there is an issue with power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T12:53:09.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T13:08:49.363" Score="12" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old car and I am wondering about the processes involved in cleaning the leather on it and bringing it back to an almost new looking state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The roof exterior is leather and the whole interior is tufted leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does the process look like for cleaning leather?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After it is cleaned, do I &quot;polish&quot; or &quot;buff&quot; it somehow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of maintenance is required afterwards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T18:16:48.547" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T23:19:14.367" Title="How to restore and care for leather?" Tags="|cleaning|interior|old-cars|exterior|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T13:29:24.363" Score="4" ViewCount="2822" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine Coolant temperature is obtained from OBD. But there is no PID to get engine temperature. Obviously, they are related, rather proportional I guess. But can there be a case where my engine is extremely hot, while my coolant temperature reading is in the normal range (say around 90 C). If so, how can one catch it from OBD parameters? Which parameters will indicate this (show unusual behavior)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, any calculation/method to calculate the engine temperature from OBD data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T01:55:39.523" Title="Engine Temperature from OBD data" Tags="|engine|coolant|obd-ii|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25800" CreationDate="2016-02-08T15:14:34.780" Score="9" ViewCount="10924" Body="&lt;p&gt;@vini_i gave a great answer to my previous question here (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25763/what-is-spark-plug-heat-range&quot;&gt;What is spark plug heat range&lt;/a&gt;)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of that answer is that the reason for spark plugs having different heat ranges is that if it runs to hot you can get pre-ignition, and too cold you get deposits on the plug which are supposed to burn off. So thinking about it, some other questions came up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What symptoms would you see (just driving the car) if you are running to cold a plug?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would the spark plugs look like if you are getting either pre-ignition or deposits?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does a plug running in the butter zone look like for a car engine, and also for a small two stroke engine like a snow blower or lawn mower?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different engines require plugs in different heat ranges. What characteristics of those engines create the need for the different ranges?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any info!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T02:50:28.133" Title="Follow up question on spark plug heat range" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25767" CreationDate="2016-02-08T15:20:02.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heated mirrors have a restive heat strip spiraled around the back of the mirror.  It works much like the defrost &quot;wires&quot; on a rear car window but since its a mirror, you can't see them.  The MkIII Jetta didn't have a control for the heated mirrors - they were always on, and would fail more often than the switched ones on newer cars, but failure does still happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start testing this, you will need to remove the mirror.  I really think it just pops off with some force, but verify that for sure...  Disconnect the two-pin wiring connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verify you are getting voltage from the car side, and check resistance on the mirror side.  Infinite resistance on the mirror indicates a broken heat wire, and &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be repairable with a rear-defrost repair kit, but I've never done it.  No power from the car could be a bad fuse, bad switch, or a bad connection somewhere.  Those possibilities should be checked in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mirrors are pretty easy to find &quot;used&quot; at a junk yard or eBay if the repair kit isn't a workable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:20:02.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T15:42:48.473" Score="6" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited Mom's 1999 car with 47K on it, it was garaged for several years. I've noticed the brakes squeal intermittently dependent on how hard the brake pedal is applied. So I had a brake inspection and was told I need to replace rear pads, rotors and one caliper. The brakes look new on 3 wheels, the pad on 4th wheel is worn more. A visual inspection of all pads if measuring in sixteenth of an inch is about 0.250&quot; thickness on 3, the 4th wheel visually looks to be about 0.1875 less. I was told, I need new rear pads; which I agree; but I was also told I needed to replace 2 rotors and the 1 caliper on the forth wheel. I'm no auto tech but I disagree with needing rotors, the pads are thick, barely worn, they're not cutting into the rotors and are nowhere near doing so, unless something seizes up. the 4th wheel is the concern because it has less meat than the others. My understanding is the piston is at fault on 1 caliper and that's the reason the 4th wheel has less meat on the pad. Do I need to replace the caliper or can it be cleaned up and and possibly lubed if its not releasing properly? The vehicle has good stopping power. Please help, I am so tired of Shops that try to take me to the cleaners.&lt;strong&gt;strong text&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T02:15:33.167" Title="Do I Need to Replace Complete Rear Brake Components" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25796" CreationDate="2016-02-08T16:19:37.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/16&quot; = .0625 inches.  That is what is left on rotor #4.  There are some calipers that take more labor to clean up and rebuild than it is to buy new, labor costs more than the cost of the new.  The condition of the rotors are the determining factor for replacement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Thickness of braking surface(s).  They must not be below a certain amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Grooving: if they are grooved, it is possible to have them turned, only to have them fall out of the spec from #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Color: if they are blued, glazed or have cracking, replace.  A dragging caliper will heat the rotor to the point of bluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Warpage: the disc surfaces are supposed to be flat.  If they are warped, replace. Easy to do with overheated brakes, especially if you have to stop.  The pads will keep the heat in the area that they are contacting and the rest of the rotor will cool at a different pace, and boom warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the procedures and specs on how to do brakes can save you money from less than reputable shops trying to take advantage.  And yes, even reputable shops sometimes take advantage too.  Looking up how to do certain things will also give you an appreciation for what the tech/mech goes through, or having done it yourself.  Search for 99 car model rear brake caliper rebuild.  There will be a forum somewhere where someone has done it and can give pointers, if nothing else, specs on what to look for and how to look for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T02:09:02.123" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T02:09:02.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25794" CreationDate="2016-02-08T17:39:11.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If working on a stock vehicle or small engine just replace the plug with what it calls for. Someone has already done all the testing and research for you for the correct plugs. Your not going to strap a super charger to your lawn mower or string trimmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should only think about changing away from the standard plugs if your car is modified. Also you should mess with the heat range &lt;strong&gt;only after&lt;/strong&gt; the fuel mixture has been figured out. This is because a fuel mixture that is off will make it look like there is a heat range problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTbgW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTbgW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very simply if a plug is too cold it will foul. It will look black with soot. You will notice hard starting or misfires under load. A plug that is fouled from too rich of a mixture will look very similar to a plug that is too cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A plug that is too hot will look white, very white. In very sever cases the preignition will actually damage the plug, melt the center or side electrode, or even shatter the porcelain. The simptoms will sound like ignition knock or pining, what every you want too call it. If the fuel mixture is too lean the plug will also look white because a lean mixture burns hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the heat range is just right the the plug will look mat or tan in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head design is the biggest factor in what the heat range of the plug will be. The thermal design of the head will dictate how quickly it can wick away that pesky heat. For example if two engines are exactly the same with one having a cast iron head and the other with an aluminum head, the aluminum head will need a hotter plug. Aluminum conduct heat faster than cast iron. The coolant flow through the head can also affect the heat range. A head with better flow requires hotter plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T17:39:11.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25805" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:38:22.620" Score="9" ViewCount="33854" Body="&lt;p&gt;This term is confusing me a little and I wanted to make sure I understood it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my understanding of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankshaft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, it looks to me like a &lt;em&gt;crank throw&lt;/em&gt; is what allows the piston to translate (or &quot;throw&quot;) linear motion to rotation of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what I infer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://what-when-how.com/automobile/firing-order-of-cylinders-automobile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article on firing orders&lt;/a&gt; is the number of unique crankpin offsets in a complete cycle will determine the number of crank throws that the engine is characterized by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a flat-plane V8 has two crank throws, while a cross-plane V8 has four crank throws. Have I correctly understood it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat-plane V8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7qFb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7qFb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flat-plane V8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross-plane V8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5b4r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5b4r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T08:21:45.300" Title="What is a &quot;crank throw&quot; and how can I determine the number of crank throws on an engine?" Tags="|engine-theory|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7422" CreationDate="2016-02-08T21:31:53.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After checking the coil, make sure the grounds are good. Sometimes the ground wiring breaks inside and its not noticeable with a visual inspection. A bad ground will create idle issues. This is a common occurrence with Toyotas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T21:31:53.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25802" CreationDate="2016-02-08T21:50:51.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic usages for the term &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://what-when-how.com/crankshaft/crankshaft/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;crank throw&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Both have to do with the crankshaft: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The crank throw is a measure of the distance from the center-line of the main journal to the center-line of the rod journal. This distance could be considered the radius of the crank arm. Twice this measurement should give you the stroke of an engine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Due to the basic nature of the distance described above, the crank throw is also considered the rod end of the crank shaft. In most V-8 engines, two connecting rods share a &quot;crank throw&quot; and there are four throws to a crankshaft. In most inline 4-cylinder engines, a single connecting rod is on it's own throw and there are also four throws on a crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your examples of either cross-plane or flat-plane crankshafts, both of them have four throws each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is such a thing as a &lt;em&gt;split-throw&lt;/em&gt; crankshaft. GM used such a crankshaft in their 90° V6 engine. Here is an image of a split-throw crankshaft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8Mai.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U8Mai.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image you can see how the journal is split. While being on the same crank arm, the journal (also called a &quot;pin&quot;) is split. They will have the same throw (or radius), but are offset from one another slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T23:26:17.913" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:26:17.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25802" CreationDate="2016-02-08T22:30:13.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crank Throw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A synonym to a crank throw is a crank pin.  Which is a an offset journal on the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the offset journal shares a connecting rod with another cylinder you would say the crank-pin has one throw for the two cylinders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The F1 V6 engines are considered 3 throw engines.  The off set journal is shared by two connecting rods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IF the described F1 engine had a unique crank-pin (offset journal) for each connecting rod then it would be a 6 throw engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Yamaha R1 engine from 2009 and the M1 MotoGP ICE are both cross plane crankshafts with 90 degree &quot;throws&quot; or crank-pins.  This is a four throw motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The standard 4 cylinder motorcycle has a 180 degree flat plane crank.  This is a two throw motor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TTBOMK crank throw does not include any measurement of distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an image of various crank throw arrangements*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKM54.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKM54.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;image and citation from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven/MechTech/Automotive01/default.asp?unNum=2&amp;amp;lesNum=3&amp;amp;modNum=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Navy, Sweet Haven Publishing Systems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T01:46:15.367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T01:46:15.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T22:42:09.520" Score="5" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle: 1980 Honda CB900 Custom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After refilling the battery with distilled water, getting it charged and letting the motorcycle sit for a few days... I then went for a ride yesterday. The voltage reading was at 12V+ (no load) and 11V+ (lights on). When I started the engine the voltage slowly started to increase. I assume this indicates that battery was charging fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a 20min ride I took a pit stop and then resumed riding for 20mins. Then took another pit stop and this time the motorcycle wouldn't turn over - I had used the high beam for a few mins. After 15mins+ I tried again and this time it turned over. I drove it for 10mins and then again it wouldn't start - I didn't use the high beam this time. Again after a 15mins+ I tried again and it ran fine. I didn't have my multi-meter at this time to check the battery reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I need guidance on how to further investigate this issue. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I find this behavior very odd.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T06:53:26.003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T06:53:26.003" Title="Motorcycle won't turn over immediately after a pit stop" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|battery|charging|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25807" CreationDate="2016-02-08T22:55:28.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem seems to be with the battery. It probably has a relatively dead cell in it. Old school would say it has a &quot;surface charge&quot; in it, where the cell will transmit enough voltage to get the motor started &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;. When the charge isn't present on the dead cell, there's nothing to start the motor. Over a short period of time, the surface charge will (magically) reappear and you can start the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this all means is, get the battery load tested. I'll bet they will tell you it needs a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T22:55:28.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25864" CreationDate="2016-02-08T22:55:36.623" Score="5" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '05 Sienna.  At 7 this morning, it was making a knocking noise when I went to leave for work. It had been off since about 9:30 last night.  Clicked unlock on the remote and nothing happened.  Had to unlock it with the key.  Internal unlock button does nothing as well.  Turning the key, it acts like the battery is low, i.e. dashboard lights come on but are dim and the car won't crank.  The knocking noise is louder inside the car than it is outside.  Disconnecting the battery stops the noise, but it starts again as soon as I reconnect the battery.  The sound seems to be coming from the back passenger sliding door, but since there is no way to unlock it, I can't even open it to look for any issues there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a (not great quality) video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/kevin.camp.77/videos/10206960190140779/?pnref=story&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/kevin.camp.77/videos/10206960190140779/?pnref=story&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14916" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T23:32:46.300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T21:28:41.760" Title="Van makes knocking noise, even after it has been off for hours" Tags="|electrical|toyota|sienna|knock|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2016-02-08T23:01:00.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the starter there will be two connections. The smaller gauge wire (s terminal - blk/wht) will run from the starter to the neutral safety switch ( A/T only - right side of transmission) and then to the ignition switch.  The larger gauge wire runs directly to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a M/T the wire runs straight to the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger gauge wire will always have battery voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller gauge wire will have ignition voltage when the key is turned to the start position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter check power on the s terminal when the key is in the start position. If you don't have power you will need to gain access to the neutral safety switch (A/T only) and test input and output power. If you have power in, but not out. Confirm the car is in park/neutral before replacing the switch. The power input pin in the ignition switch draws power directly from the battery with no fuse or fusible link seemingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:01:00.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25807" CreationDate="2016-02-08T23:28:09.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may have a bad stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @paulster2 stated, you should have your battery tested.  You could have a lead plate the broke free inside the batter and grounding out that cel to another cel.  Your voltage test could be an indicator that it is not your battery though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a method you can use to test your stator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Stator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three yellow wires that come from your stator.  They come out of the left side crankshaft cover and route into your sprocket cover and out along the cast bottom portion of your frame on their way to your rectifier.  They connect directly to the rectifier.  You can disconnect them from the rectifier and test them with a multimeter.  Your first test will be static.  The engine is not running.  Be sure to disconnect from the rectifier and not just try and pierce the wires with the multimeter end.  They are special wires and insulated a bit more, these are one of the few wires on the motorcycle that carry AC current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set multimeter to ohms and test between all the leads in pairs.  The reading 0.1 to 1.0 max resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Load Test Dynamic Test&lt;/strong&gt; Set your multimeter to AC Volts and start the bike.  It should be cold.  Have a friend hold the RPM's at 5,000.  Test between the leads.  You should see more than 70V.  If it's below that, you may need a new stator.  I would replace, but I'll get to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing Your Rectifier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rectifier has diodes in it.  Diodes are one way valves for electricity, think of a reed valve in a two stroke in-take.  Since this is a three-phase charging system you need diodes to join the AC current into a single output and convert to DC.  I could get more detailed but I want to keep it simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rectifier Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt; Using your multimeter set to ohms connect the multimeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. You should have low resistance in one direction and higher in the opposite direction. Generally, you will want to see 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction, and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the black probe (-) of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier (black wires) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts for the stator. Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the rectifier.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lower resistance in both directions (5+ ohms) then it's shot.  If you have infinite in both directions, then it's shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; you need to replace your stator or your rectifier I would consider going aftermarket.  Your era of motorcycle has a bad track record for stator and rectifier life spans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ebay%20honda%20cb900c%20stator&amp;amp;oq=ebay%20honda%20cb900c%20stator&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64l3.5415j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=ebay%20aftermarket%20honda%20cb900c%20stator&quot;&gt;Link to stator replacement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ebay%20honda%20cb900c%20stator&amp;amp;oq=ebay%20honda%20cb900c%20stator&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64l3.5415j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=ebay%20aftermarket%20honda%20cb900c%20rectifier&quot;&gt;Link to rectifier replacement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aftermarket stator and rectifier replacements I have procured have been far more reliable for Suzuki and Honda motorcycles of the era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.  Hope it's your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:28:09.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T23:51:00.260" Score="7" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured I'd throw this one up here and see if any other mechanics have run into this code before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customer came in with a check engine light complaint. Confirmed codes P1283 and P1800. MAF and B2S1 AFR sensor were replaced by customer. Unknown brand of AFR sensor more than likely Bosch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual inspection showed rotted PCV hose. Replaced PCV hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A/F Alpha on B2 showed roughly 125%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B2S1 Voltage showed sub 1.4v&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rear O2s had good range and responded to changes (creating a vacuum leak/adding fuel).&#xA;Engine vacuum roughly 20inHg&lt;br&gt;&#xA;MAF passed VE check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other sensors ECT, IAT, MAP, BARO looked OK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleared the code and self learn. Within a few drive cycles P1283 came back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoke tested the intake (cold). No visible leak. Sprayed with soapy water confirmed no vacuum leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per TSB  NTB04-019A checked B2 catalytic converter for loose/missing bolts. All bolts secure and present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoke tested the exhaust. No exhaust leaks found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per TSB NTB04-090 ohmed the injectors. All injectors had roughly 14ohms @ 157*F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I opted to replace the AFR sensor with an NTK (OE brand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the AFR sensor, cleared the code and self learn and drove for monitors. The O2 monitor took a few drive cycles to pass so something seemingly was wrong, but scan data showed A/F alpha right around 105% and sensor voltage at around 1.5v. Eventually it passed the monitor and got it's inspection sticker. Mode $6 confirmed test passed with some margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the presence of TSBs I would think that this code (P1283) isn't that uncommon. Though this is the only time I've ever run into the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever ran into this issue before? And if so what was the cause/final solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T08:19:27.810" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T08:19:27.810" Title="05 Nissan Maxima SL 3.5 P1283" Tags="|nissan|maxima|p1283|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25793" CreationDate="2016-02-09T01:55:39.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;PID 05 is Engine coolant temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-40 minimum 215 °C maximum.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula is A-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T01:55:39.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25796" CreationDate="2016-02-09T02:15:33.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/73/should-i-resurface-or-replace-my-rotors-everytime-i-replace-brake-pads&quot;&gt;This Question and Answers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; do an excellent job of explaining the need or not to replace rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotors are relatively inexpensive and if you want to ensure you brakes are effective then resurfacing the rotors or procuring new ones is a good idea.  It's not necessarily about grooves in the rotors or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper rebuild could be a few hours of flat rate labor and it's probably cheaper for you to buy the single caliper than rebuild it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T02:15:33.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25884" CreationDate="2016-02-09T02:32:13.300" Score="16" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multimeters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some responses regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=multimeter&amp;amp;oq=multimeter&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1719j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot;&gt;multimeter&lt;/a&gt; basics for the site tag-wiki to point OP's at when we want them to use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the basic functions of a multimeter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How would I troubleshoot a headlamp failure with a multimeter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I test a fuse with a multimeter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I test a battery with a multimeter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T17:08:55.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:14:13.843" Title="Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|tools|multimeter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T02:40:21.050" Score="16" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tacoma has been making a strange revving and rattling sound when the truck is in motion and the brake or the clutch is pressed and the gas pedal is released. I couldn't reproduce the effect when idling. I first thought it might be the heat shields around the exhaust assembly as it feels that's where the noise is coming from but they are all pretty firm. Doesn't feel like it's coming from the engine itself. The noise is sort of like as though something is stuck in the way of either the fan or the drive belt, which I inspected negatively. It does not happen every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers where to start looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T18:53:08.513" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:08:13.537" Title="Revving and rattling sometimes when braking" Tags="|toyota|brakes|noise|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25794" CreationDate="2016-02-09T02:50:28.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What symptoms would you see (just driving the car) if you are running to cold a plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would begin to get carbon on the insulator of the plug.  Due to plug dispelling heat at a faster rate than a hot plug the insulator would not stay hot enough to keep the carbon from building up.  Eventually the plug might foul if the range was too cold.  Fouling occurs when carbon coats the insulator portion of the sparkplug from the electrode in the insulator down the insulator to the threaded body inside the sparkplug.  When the plug receives power from the coil the electricity runs across the top of the insulator in the carbon which is a conductor.  At this point, there is no visible spark when the plug 'fires'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would the spark plugs look like if you are getting either pre-ignition or deposits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plug could get a buildup of various deposits or have the electrode melted away based upon the cause of the pre-ignition.  Cross-firing through plug wires can cause dramatic after effects on spark plugs after extended use under those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjhJh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjhJh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does a plug running in the butter zone look like for a car engine, and also for a small two stroke engine like a snow blower or lawn mower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should like tan and the electrodes should have an intact look to them.  In other words, physically they should have the same appearance as new but the slight combustion buildup and color are the give away that it's a used plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tnp8b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tnp8b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Different engines require plugs in different heat ranges. What characteristics of those engines create the need for the different ranges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What drives sparkplug heat range selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characteristics of the engine such as cam lobe shape, crank type and amount of cylinders don't typically drive plug heat range selection.  Things that do drive heat range selection are frequently on the list below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forced induction&lt;/strong&gt; engines with a turbo or supercharger will drive a higher volumetric efficiency which can account for a colder plug selection to dispense heat more rapidly from the combustion chamber.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Naturally aspirated&lt;/strong&gt; vehicles with a reduced quantity of fuel and oxygen could justify a cooler plug due the decreased need to dispense with heat due to reduced oxygen and fuel in the overall combustion charge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High RPM&lt;/strong&gt; engines that run in extreme rev ranges will have more combustion cycles per minute than a low RPM engine, due to increased heat a hotter plug would be required to, again, dispense with heat being converted from more air and fuel in a shorter period of time than a low RPM engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;- &#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T02:50:28.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25786" CreationDate="2016-02-09T03:04:39.237" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They may not have bled your cooling system properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a possibility, if you had air trapped in your cooling system it would expand as the engine approached operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would eventually, hopefully, make it's way into your radiator where the air would get released into the overflow tank by a valve that opens with higher pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the engine cools a vacuum from any remaining air would be created in the cooling system as any remaining air pockets contracted.  This negative pressure would draw in coolant from the overflow giving you the appearance that you have a coolant leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not seeing any leaks, ensure your coolant overflow is filled to the appropriate quantity by referencing the fill lines on the side of the reservoir.  Any remaining air should purge itself through the designed process.  So long as your car is not overheating and losing coolant IMO this is more than likely the process that is occurring.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T03:04:39.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T03:37:36.783" Score="7" ViewCount="6380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a 2003 ford explorer sport trac.The backup lights stay on and I have to remove the fuse to turn them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14921" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T12:09:24.693" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:47:24.127" Title="backup lights stay on in park and switch off" Tags="|electrical|ford|lights|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T03:41:05.400" Score="7" ViewCount="8878" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai i30 model 1600 cc Auto. diesel, now done 60,000 miles. &#xA;About 10 months ago, I had difficulty starting the engine from cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature would have been in the 50 to 60 degree Fahrenheit range.The glow plug lights came on several seconds before starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car dealers said that the glow plugs required replacing, and this was done within the 5 year warranty, i.e. no charge.It seemed to cure the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ten months later I am having a similar problem, the engine never starts first time.&#xA;The outdoor temperature range would be about 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, it wouldn't start first time, the second time, I kept the starter on continuously for about 10 seconds, the engine turned over slowly and gradually gained momentum, and eventually started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the engine is started, it starts up, first time during the rest of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car need new glow plugs again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all thank you all for your comments, I have found them interesting to say the least. I tested the car's battery the other day, whilst the engine was not running, the voltage being 12.89 I have booked the car into the dealership in 3 weeks time. It will be left their overnight so they can check the engine form cold. I am not very confident that they will trace the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have forgotten to mention that about 6 months ago my son was driving the car home from his work, when suddenly the car's engine stopped, he managed to pull over to the side of the road. He then started the engine up, and it started. We have had no further incidents regarding this. Again I took it in to the car's Dealership, again they were unable to trace the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will take a copy of the answers you have given, and show them to the service manager. and see what he has to say. Thanks again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14920" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T16:03:52.957" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T21:15:14.077" Title="Hyundai i30, 1600 cc Difficulty starting" Tags="|starting|diesel|hyundai|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25786" CreationDate="2016-02-09T04:09:27.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Ducatikillers answer. But would suggest a pressure test of your cooling system. Check with auto part stores , they may be able to test your system, or possibly loan a pressure tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14858" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T04:09:27.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22421" CreationDate="2016-02-09T05:18:36.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have observed a glow on new spark plug wires. It is called &lt;strong&gt;CORONA&lt;/strong&gt;. It will go to your fingers without shocking you. I would increase the wire diameter if it was wire change time and your application will accept the larger size wire, otherwise I would consider it normal. On a rainey humid night you should see no visable sparks. Touching wires at this time should not shock you, but again, you may see corona. If you are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ever shocked&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, replace the wires ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14922" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T05:18:36.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25816" CreationDate="2016-02-09T05:51:30.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks more like 4 questions lol. But here goes.&#xA;Basic Functions : Multiple Ranges for measuring Volts, Ohms (resistance), and Milliamps.&#xA;Headlamd  failure: Negative or black lead to a good ground (negative battery post,clean spot on the frame etc.) Red or positive lead to the terminals on the headlamp plug (headlight switch on). No voltage? Check for broken wires? Check the switch! Got voltage?? use the Ohms setting, (POWER OFF!!) to check between the terminals.&#xA;Testing fuse: in place, ground the black lead, touch red lead to first one end of fuse, then the other end.Voltage at both ends, good fuse! Testing loose fuses: Ohms setting, leads on opposite ends of fuse.&#xA;Auto batteries: best tested with load type battery tester, or hygrometer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14858" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T05:51:30.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25686" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:00:06.490" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with atraudes. But would add a couple of things. &#xA;Put the biggest filter with the finest filter Media you can get in there.&#xA;ALWAYS add a fuel stabilizer to your small engine fuel. NOT JUST When storing the equipment!!&#xA;In my experience (30years Professional lawn and garden equipment repair!) Honda parts prices rival the National debt!!&#xA;I pray you don&quot;t have to replace the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14858" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T07:00:06.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25686" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:53:51.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/00X31ZT76221.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's the owners manual from the Honda Power Equipment website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It doesn't have what your looking for&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you look on page 51 it shows how to remove fascia related to the front cover.  You will notice you are looking at the side of the gas tank beneath the top cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a bunch of assumption&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a lot of experience with the 80's era of Honda generator and this is obviously newer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may still be the way or similar to what I describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have removed the front fascia there are some fasteners where the top cover is attached to the fuel storage and the far edge is 'flat hook' as we used to call them where a piece of the top cover extends and fits into a slot and uses the bend as one side the mount and M5 or M6 bolts on the other side, mounting to the fuel cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe, using the pdf as the reference, you can just go in on that side and access the fuel tank so you can clean it with some acid or other good stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T07:53:51.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25827" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ43i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ43i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ferrari.com/en_us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25828" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" Score="0" Body="An Italian Automaker" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T07:58:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25788" CreationDate="2016-02-09T08:36:47.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sound goes away when the clutch is depressed then the sound is coming from the rotating internals of the gearbox, depressing the clutch will allow them to come to a stop (bear in mind that it's a constant-mesh box, so if the clutch is up then the internals spin even in neutral when the car is stationary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best diagnosis is to drain the gearbox oil, it should be clear and a light caramel colour, if there is evidence of metal filings then the box is worn or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a good opportunity to refresh the oil and make sure that the oil level is correct, which can both have a positive effect on gearbox performance, life and noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though you're concerned about cost, and oil change is inexpensive compared to the cost of gearbox repair, especially if you can do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:36:47.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T09:58:40.223" Score="12" ViewCount="5784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Indian Make TATA INDICA Ev2 (CR4) Turbo Engine car. I did rebore recently and the mileage was 130,000 KMs. After rebore first service of 3000 km is successfully completed and now I'm facing a problem with sudden stall of the engine while driving. Immediately tried to start the engine but no crank sound or anything (completely dead). Later after some time I tried and the engine cranks and starts successfully! What would be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine oil is on good level, radiator water is on good level, I changed the starter solenoid. Can't identify what causes this problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14925" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T18:57:07.343" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T09:45:16.257" Title="Car stalls/dies suddenly while driving and is not starting again" Tags="|engine|electrical|starting|stall|tata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25916" CreationDate="2016-02-09T10:04:29.187" Score="11" ViewCount="45821" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have come across many bikes which have upside down front forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From browsing around the internet, I was not able to get a concrete answer for why it is preferred over conventional telescopic forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T18:04:36.313" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T07:17:22.337" Title="What are the advantages of upside down forks?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|forks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25816" CreationDate="2016-02-09T10:49:50.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic Functions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A multimeter is an electrical device for measuring electrical Voltages (Volts, V), Currents (Amps, I) and Resistances (Ohms, Ω). Most are also capable of measuring continuity, and many have other functions such as testing diodes and transistors/ It is used by setting it to an appropriate range, and using the attached probes to check the component under test - for example, to test a battery voltage, set it to &quot;20V DC&quot; (I.e. measuring a DC voltage in the range -20 to +20 Volts), and touch the black wire to the negative terminal of the battery and the red wire to the positive terminal - a healthy battery with no load should read around 13.5V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrical Troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18403/how-do-you-test-analogue-electrical-circuits&quot;&gt;This question and answers&lt;/a&gt; that I posted last year...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T10:49:50.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25821" CreationDate="2016-02-09T11:47:24.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glow plugs are not necessarily the problem. You said the engine turned over slowly. If turning was exceedingly slow then the battery would be more likely, not enough juice for the engine to gain momentum. If the engine turns over normally but just won't start, and when it does the start is &quot;dirty&quot;, then the glow plugs are very likely. They aren't difficult to check, you can find the procedure in the answers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/66/10905&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible issues are a faulty high pressure fuel pump, a clogged fuel filter or clogged injectors, though these would probably show up every time you try to start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T12:07:43.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25821" CreationDate="2016-02-09T12:21:25.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the starter picked up speed as you cranked, I would suspect bad connections from the battery down to the starter.  I have seen this before and simply disconnecting the large cable from the battery to the starter and cleaning the terminals with wire wool and reconnecting them totally changed the speed of the starter.  Also clean the battery connectors, battery posts and the earth strap connectors from the battery to the vehicle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While performing this procedure make sure you disconnect the battery negative first and reconnect it last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T12:21:25.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2016-02-09T12:57:47.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greater Torsional Stability.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Why should flipping the orientation cause any difference?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Without getting into a detailed analysis, you can imagine that most of the stresses on the fork can be assumed to be concentrated just below the bottom yoke.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Eg, while braking (front), the wheel slows down- pushing the bike back through the forks causing a bending moment to the fork.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The upside down fork will be stiffer as the slider has a larger diameter (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bending_stiffness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bending stiffness&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/mech325/figures/elastic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) compared to the stanchions. &#xA;So , there you go.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the Rider, this results in a more predictable front end under braking, turning and any other maneuver you might put it through.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's also this matter about reduced unsprung mass, which ducati killer has explained in his answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17393/what-are-the-advantages-of-a-single-side-swingarm-on-motorcycles&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; . Though, in practice, there's very little difference/advantage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With respect to mountain bikes, the vast majority of forks are 'right side up' . &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnCLA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnCLA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right side up vs upside down&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So though the general argument presented above in my answer still holds true about larger diameter cylindrical sections providing more resistance to bending, for the same material use, there's another thing to consider. That is , the number of points where one can introduce lateral braces. Addition of lateral braces serves to only provide additional lateral stiffness and prevent the tendency to 'twist'. On a mountain bike, I guess this design serves to optimize the structural requirements the best. Again, this is a generalization and for XC (cross country) mtb, upside down forks are becoming popular.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For sports bikes, the maximum stress on the fork has to arguably be when it's braking (or braking and turning). This force out measures all the other forces by so much that a fork designed to optimize on that structural requirement would meet lateral stiffness and twist requirements quite conveniently (things are not that simple, but you get the picture) . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T18:42:29.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25838" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25839" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" Score="0" Body="For questions related to cross-plane crankshafts." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:01:10.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25840" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25841" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" Score="0" Body="For questions related to flat-plane crankshafts." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:02:40.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25842" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25843" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for generic questions related to tools, techniques and methodologies for diagnosing problems. Do not use this tag for case-specific problems, the &quot;troubleshooting&quot; tag is better suited for that." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:17:34.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25844" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Definition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firing order refers to the sequence in which cylinders on a multi-cylinder engine will undergo their power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/V-engine-cylnum-1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2 &#xA;&#xA;1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3&#xA;&#xA;1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2&#xA;&#xA;1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4&#xA;&#xA;1-5-6-3-4-2-7-8&#xA;&#xA;1-5-4-8-7-2-6-3&#xA;&#xA;1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2&#xA;&#xA;1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8&#xA;&#xA;1-5-3-7-4-8-2-6&#xA;&#xA;1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8&#xA;&#xA;1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3&#xA;&#xA;1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25845" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" Score="0" Body="Use for questions related to cylinder firing order." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:33:11.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2016-02-09T13:41:59.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your battery completely self-discharges in 4 weeks, you should consider changing it. A good battery stays in shape for at least a couple of months, even with the ground cable connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is good, you should have your car checked. Drawing so much current as to empty the battery in 4 weeks is not normal, and may indicate a serious electrical problem (broken insulation) which will destroy the wiring over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T13:41:59.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22688" CreationDate="2016-02-09T14:03:31.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience it is completely possible since powerful BMW engines consume a lot of engine oil. I have a 2014 X5 50i (4.4 L V8) and every 2000 miles or so I need to add 2 quarts of oil. Dealer told me about this before hand so you shouldn't worry about it. Even they have told me that M series cars require oil top-up every 1000 miles or so. This is due to the reserve requirements of powerful engines, since they want to make sure that you don't face engine problems too quickly. Just remember to use high quality oil and you should be fine. If there were leaks, you would know about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:03:31.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T14:46:55.030" Score="13" ViewCount="148985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I bumped into a curb and my tire has sidewall damage.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMC1p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMC1p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Is this tire safe to drive on? or do I need to replace this tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Yfee.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Yfee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14930" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:18:22.170" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:18:22.170" Title="Tire SideWall Damage. Replace?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22945" CreationDate="2016-02-09T14:54:07.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a carburated engine (not fuel injection) then it's likely that one or more of your carburettor jets is blocked or the diaphragm has a hole in it. Find a service manual for this motorcycle (there's probably a PDF of it somewhere on the internet) and follow the instructions for taking the top off the carb, you will need screwdrivers, small spanners or a socket set and a spray can of carb cleaner that comes with a straw. You'll probably have to take the fuel tank off to get the top off the carb. If you can't find carb cleaner, a spray can of WD40 will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've taken the top off the carb (watch out for the spring and don't lose the little clip on the needle) you need check for pinholes in the diaphragm and clean the jets (all the little holes in the bottom of the carb including the one that the needle goes in and the one with a small pin coming out of it, nearest to the engine) by pressing the straw into the hole (with the other end connected to the spray can, in case you don't realise) and spraying the cleaner into it. Forcing the cleaner into the jets like that helps to blast all the goo out.&#xA;If the diaphragm has a pinhole in it, you can use a tiny blob of glue (or instant gasket) to seal it but the blob must be as small as possible otherwise the diaphragm won't work properly and the engine still won't run properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try Bradshaw's suggestion for adjusting the idle jet aka air screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:54:07.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2016-02-09T15:16:00.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace for sure.  The sidewall is the most vulnerable part of the tire.  The tire might be holding air for now, and you might be able to drive on it for a while, but it could &quot;pop&quot; at any time creating a very dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the spare on immediately - don't risk a blow-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T15:16:00.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T15:29:21.467" Score="4" ViewCount="5019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put new alternator on my 2004 Ford Escape, and now my battery light keeps flashing on and off, and it will sometimes stay on. The battery has been checked and is charging 100 % . The alternator is working properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's wrong ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14931" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T15:53:47.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:31:25.977" Title="Battery light flashing after alternator install on 2004 Ford Escape" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22209" CreationDate="2016-02-09T16:07:49.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Cause&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car (like most cars) saves the milage in a small memory chip inside the instrument cluster. That chip is called an EEPROM. Like most memory units &lt;strong&gt;EEPROMs are subject to wear&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;If you rewrite the data often enough the chip will fail to save the new data or save corrupted data. This could be the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why is the &quot;correct&quot; (i.e. &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt;) value displayed? Because the value is saved somewhere else (in RAM) temporarily before it gets saved to the EEPROM for long-term storage. This temporary value does not survive your &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Process of odometer display / save&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start of car: Read last value from EEPROM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Continuously: Calculate new value (by adding miles to last value). Show current value in display. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every x seconds or miles: Save new value to EEPROM&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Repair&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your can &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;replace the EEPROM in your instrument cluster.&lt;/strong&gt; This is a rather complicated procedure which requires some electronics and computer knowledge. &#xA;You have to desolder the old chip, buy a new, copy data from old to new and solder the new chip in.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;If you haven't done this before chances are you are breaking your instrument cluster.&lt;/strong&gt; Besides you probably have to the buy special tools to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;replace your instrument cluster.&lt;/strong&gt; This is a far more easy way of fixing the problem. Buy a used instrument cluster and swap it with your old. &#xA;The new cluster's odometer will start from a wrong milage, but it will count correctly. If you plan to sell the car you should &lt;strong&gt;inform the buyer of the differing milage.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In order to obtain the offset, maybe you can read the correct milage from the ECU using a OBD2 dongle or someone at a Nissan workshop can tell you using their diagnostic tool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bonus: EEPROM wear&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EEPROMs last many erase and write cycles. The number of life-time cycles are in the 100000s or millions. That sounds much but considering a 20 year usage of a car, it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use your car for 250k km (~150k mi) and the car saves the new value every 0,25 km thats 100000 writes. &#xA;If you drive with an average of 50 km/h (~30 mph), it takes you 5000 hours to drive 250k km. &#xA;If your car is not updating the values by distance but by time and it does that once every 10 seconds, you have 1,8 million writes.&#xA;I don't know which of the two intervals is used to update the storage, but I guess it's a combination of those two: &lt;em&gt;Each x miles, but at least every y seconds&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most chips exceed their life expectancy, some don't. This can be a result of higher operating and storing temperatures or just a random fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:07:49.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25852" CreationDate="2016-02-09T16:31:25.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a &lt;strong&gt;loose connection&lt;/strong&gt; at a specific wire. Car alternators have a &lt;strong&gt;control output&lt;/strong&gt; to tell the instrument cluster or the ecu that the alternator is running and generating power. It there is voltage on that wire, the battery lamp is off and vice versa. In allmost all cars it's as simple as this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the wire on that terminal wasn't properly mounted when installing the new alternator. You can fix this by yourself. To do so, just look for a contact on the alternator labeled &quot;&lt;strong&gt;61&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;strong&gt;D+&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. It is not one of the big ones with thick wires, but a rather small terminal with a thin wire. Tighten the nut or screw holding at that terminal and you should be fine. &lt;strong&gt;Note: Disconnect your battery first, otherwise you could cause a short circuit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible causes are that this &lt;strong&gt;wire is damaged or broken&lt;/strong&gt;. In that case you have to look for the location where it is damaged and repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T16:31:25.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:19:48.810" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;although JPhi is right in what he says, he's also slightly wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have taken a chunk out of your sidewall it's not necessarily dangerous in the slightest, it only becomes dangerous when you can see the cords because that is what can cause the tyre to bulge and blow out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is worth checking for any bulging after a 100 miles or so but if it's a part of the Tyre isn't raised up slightly then you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber on the Tyre isn't what keeps it structurally sound, It's the cords inside that provide the strength/structural integrity to handle 30+ psi, the rubber is just to keep the air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worked in a Tyre/wheel garage for over 10 years and always had people coming in with small gauges where the cords weren't showing and they never had an issue waiting for the Tyre to wear down before replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T17:19:48.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25784" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:29:03.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without pointing out the oblivious the best thing to do would be to start from the battery and work your way to each control with a multi-meter and find out exactly what's causing it, if the controls aren't getting power then chances are it's either a fuse, something wired up wrong or a burnt out wire(less likely because the fuse would just blow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T17:29:03.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17059" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:37:49.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact cause of the issue had been found to be that of a loose alternator belt.&#xA;When the engine was cold, the alternator had a slack in it and if the AC load is added on the engine, the rpm fluctuated.&#xA;Solution was simply to tension the alternator belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, thanks to all for sharing the knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T17:37:49.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2016-02-09T17:41:29.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had  a similar thing on a Suzuki. It turned out in the end the coils had got wet inside, causing a short. It just happened to be coincide with me cleaning carbs and sorting a rocker cover leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brilliant spark with the spark plugs out of the machine; no spark under firing conditions. I used an autotune device to see inside the cylinder whilst running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution: new coils, or could try baking them over night at about 110-120 F to force the moisture out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14933" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T00:04:03.197" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T00:04:03.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T19:27:53.610" Score="8" ViewCount="2078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Toyota tundra that I replaced 1 headlight on thinking it was bad but then replaced it a second time and it worked fine for 1 day and the all of a sudden now I do not have any low beams on either side. I have high beams. I was told that maybe a fuse or a relay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the chances that it is just a fuse? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14935" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T20:08:30.710" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:00:53.880" Title="No low beams but do have high beams" Tags="|electrical|toyota|headlight|tundra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2016-02-09T19:50:30.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same question, lots of answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/137i4f/my_tire_sidewall_is_ripped_can_i_drive_with_it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/137i4f/my_tire_sidewall_is_ripped_can_i_drive_with_it/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the one response which suggests sealing the cut to stop water damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the outer tire rubber doesn't hold the air, the inner liner holds the air in.  Thus a tire puncture means the inner liner gets a hole, and the inner liner must be properly patched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire sidewall slice is quite common for 4x4 off roading trips, which I have done, and not a reason to replace the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a tire damage inspection chart.  Some pretty serious problems that people drive around with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maxxis.com/media/197662/tire_damage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.maxxis.com/media/197662/tire_damage.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14938" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T19:50:30.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:51:05.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me I would replace the tire. I've had a blowout in a sidewall before and it's no fun.  The real question for me is how much I value my life, the lives of passengers, and those around me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11893" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T20:51:05.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25860" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:54:24.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your're checking fuses, don't overlook the connector(s) on the headlights themselves.  Sometimes they fail over time and other times due to people putting higher wattage bulbs than the connectors can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11893" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T20:54:24.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25809" CreationDate="2016-02-09T21:28:41.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the shutting mechanism for the door is not quite getting the door closed, or maybe the switch which tells the door closer to do its thing is broke. As @NateEldredge says, get the battery recharged completely and investigate further. Once it's recharged, try to open and close the door from the side the noise is coming from (assuming it has two passenger doors ... also assuming it has automatic sliding doors). I'm just wondering if that action alone will solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T21:28:41.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25869" CreationDate="2016-02-09T21:39:19.397" Score="5" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/8J9acXhHpqFL3nau5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://goo.gl/photos/8J9acXhHpqFL3nau5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car just started making this noise when I apply the brakes. It persists for a few seconds after but only if the car is moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what is wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: this might be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/Roo6wHBGZa8nB1zG8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Probable wheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/9swb9sWWMcfk9z5Q6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comparison &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4532" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T23:22:03.453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T23:22:03.453" Title="Strange brake noise" Tags="|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25902" CreationDate="2016-02-09T21:42:47.640" Score="14" ViewCount="7047" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In other words, what factors influence an engine designer's decision to go with a certain firing order?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some free time today to investigate what firing orders are possible on a flat-plane 90° V8 and determined that there are 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-5-2-6-4-8-3-7&#xA;1-5-2-7-4-8-3-6&#xA;1-5-3-6-4-8-2-7&#xA;1-5-3-7-4-8-2-6&#xA;1-8-2-6-4-5-3-7&#xA;1-8-2-7-4-5-3-6&#xA;1-8-3-6-4-5-2-7&#xA;1-8-3-7-4-5-2-6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these eight possibilities, Wikipedia documents Ferrari as using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firing_order&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-5-3-7-4-8-2-6&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a V8, evenly-spaced power strokes (at 90° crank intervals) is guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what other factors influence the decision to choose one firing order over another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:54:00.283" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T03:53:58.087" Title="What made Ferrari choose this particular firing order for their flat-plane V8's?" Tags="|engine-theory|firing-order|flat-plane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T21:50:16.270" Score="5" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my friend is interested in this 1995 Dodge Viper he's seen on a pre-owned showroom and I have some questions that I'd like to ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What kind of questions related to that specific car should we be asking the dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What things should I look for when inspecting the car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any question regarding maintenance of that car that I should be asking the dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9971" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T22:02:39.377" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T22:11:32.627" Title="1995 Dodge Viper" Tags="|engine|transmission|maintenance|dodge|viper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25867" CreationDate="2016-02-09T22:11:32.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer all of your questions but I can tell you there are no recalls on OEM parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a single recall on the vehicle related to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=PROD&amp;amp;prodType=V&amp;amp;targetCategory=A&amp;amp;searchCriteria.model=VIPER&amp;amp;cmplCount=3&amp;amp;rclCount=1&amp;amp;invCount=1&amp;amp;tsbCount=19&amp;amp;activeTab=0&amp;amp;stats=63765%2C1%2C1%2C3%2C19%2CVIPER&amp;amp;makeStats=&amp;amp;jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&amp;amp;searchCriteria.model_yr=1995&amp;amp;searchCriteria.make=DODGE&amp;amp;searchCriteria.prod_ids=63765&amp;amp;submit=Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aftermarket brake parts&lt;/a&gt; from several manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24231/in-the-us-how-do-i-tell-if-a-car-is-in-good-condition?answertab=oldest#tab-top&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; has excellent guidance on what to check when procuring a new used vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most dealerships will allow you to take the car to a mechanic in order to get a basic inspection to check for error codes via OBDII and perhaps even do a compression test on the motor.  I would recommend that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T22:11:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25865" CreationDate="2016-02-09T22:39:58.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It sounds as though your brake pads have worn down to the metal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads are considered a consumable in the car industry, much like oil or tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads have material that is bound to a metal backing plate.  When that material is used up the metal backing plate can begin to grind on the disc or rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the metal to metal contact begins a groove is worn into the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am correct with the sound you have worn out the brake pads and are digging into your rotor with the backing plate of the pad and are rapidly destroying the rotor.  If you get past the pad in wear you will begin to wear out the pistons in your caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you replace your rotors and pads quickly if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove a front wheel and look at the pad against the rotor to confirm this theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T22:39:58.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25909" CreationDate="2016-02-09T23:46:01.217" Score="5" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out that one of my actuators is broken. I found this part corresponding to the door that needs to be fixed. It's called 'door latch', so not sure if this contains the actuator. I'd appreciate any explanation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked up 'actuator' for my 2008 VW Jetta S on amazon website, this was the result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the door doesn't lock, so I was told the actuator is broken and the part needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I assumed this is the part needs to be replaced for the lock to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix my door lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be the correct component to repair it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGnN6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;latch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14939" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T09:25:49.537" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T09:25:49.537" Title="What does an actuator part look like?" Tags="|vw|door|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25874" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:14:21.527" Score="6" ViewCount="173292" Body="&lt;p&gt;2013 Chevy Cruze. 86000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our car has been ticking while idling, and the noise gets louder and faster when accelerating. Oil has been changed regularly. Water pump was changed recently due to a leak. Not very car savvy, so I'm not sure what else to say about it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14941" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T00:16:39.640" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T09:20:38.183" Title="Ticking noise while idling that increases with acceleration" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|noise|cruze|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25890" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:20:02.163" Score="8" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question title says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a new driver and I understand that driving at higher RPMs can burn more gas faster. However getting to a destination longer would mean you were spending gas at a longer period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any scientific explanations? Do I save more getting to the destination faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Car is Honda Mobilio (1.5 Gasoline Engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T13:54:33.437" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:51:48.233" Title="Driving slower at low constant rpms or driving fast to get to destination faster, which saves more gas?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|driving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:26:41.803" Score="9" ViewCount="2637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a disconnected wire dangling next to the battery in the trunk of my 2005 BMW 330ci. It was actually a red and blue wire that veered off from the thick red one in the middle of the image. There was a black attachment at the end with 3 prongs inside, you can see the end of it hanging right next to the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled back the carpet wall material to see if it might have gotten pulled out of something and I noticed another wire that was detached. That was a set of 6 black and red wires that fed into an single row, 6-prong connector. You can see it curved upwards and in front of the thick red wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Z3w8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Z3w8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T04:05:58.870" Title="Disconnected wires near battery in BMW e46" Tags="|electrical|battery|bmw|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25871" CreationDate="2016-02-10T00:47:26.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It sounds like a valve adjustment is required&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many items that can make a 'ticking' noise that is tied to the RPM of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the sound match RPM's certainly gives a clue that it is associated with the operation of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times a valve adjustment is required.  This is a component of a regular maintenance schedule for almost all vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A valve adjustment ensures that valve clearance between your camshaft and your valve actuator (there are many different types) is correct.  As normal wear occurs on the motor the gap between the two increases until enough gap is there for you to begin to hear a ticking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;other possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certainly other possibilities regarding the sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a bad pully for a belt&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a failing water pump can sometimes make a ticking sound&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an alternator that is beginning to fail can make a ticking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a way to check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a long screwdriver and place the tip on the valve cover of your engine.  Then press the handle into your ear and push the tragus of your ear over the canal and you will be able to listen to the inside of the engine.  If the valves need to be adjusted you will hear the ticking loud and clear from the valve cover.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF not, use the technique to listen around the engine bay to see if you can identify the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a screwdrivers with 18&quot; shafts that are easy to do this with.  You could also use a steel or aluminum rod or any other long tool that can transfer the sound through it.  It will need to metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T00:47:26.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="862" CreationDate="2016-02-10T01:34:57.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the deal : higher octane means less volatility, and this is meant for engines with higher compression so that the fuel doesn't ignite too early in the cycle  . Lower octane fuel is more volatile and is meant for engines where compression rates are lower, so that the ignition in the cycle not occur too early . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, follow the manufacturer's octane recommendation for better performance . However most cars which use high octane are able to accept regular gas because they are equipped with knock sensors which will automatically adjust the engine cycle timing, thus reducing engine knock or detonation. Engine performance will be diminished however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14942" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T05:34:43.803" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T05:34:43.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25873" CreationDate="2016-02-10T04:05:58.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't remember seeing that harness on my 2001 E46, but all the E90s have them. The general consensus is that it's used in shipping to ensure the battery remains charged. It is perfectly normal to have that harness sitting there unplugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T04:05:58.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:11:01.960" Score="4" ViewCount="9340" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, it started doing this a few months back with no rhyme or reason.  Before this happened, sometimes would start beeping after engine start. A long 18 beep procession.  Don't know if related. When you turn the key, nothing happens.  All the lights in the panel come on, but no noise from the engine.  Then, a few minutes or hours later, it can turn on.  Ignition switch was changed, battery connections tightened, electrical and starter all checked out according to the mechanic.  Still doing it.  Heard a 5 beep &quot;song&quot; on last startup.  Then, next startup didn't happen.  It never tried to start by cranking.  It just dies.&#xA;Found 2 you tube videos that show 2004 GMC Yukons doing exactly what my truck is doing, but no explanations and no fixes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody else seen this and is there a cure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mario&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14944" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T05:34:20.107" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T22:16:06.163" Title="2004 GMC Yukon Denali, intermittent no crank/no start/no noise" Tags="|starting|ignition|gmc|yukon|no-crank-no-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25887" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:19:27.630" Score="5" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brought a new car with leather protection, the brochure only says lifetime protection against&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cracking, splitting and discolouration caused by the harmful effects of ultra violet light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;permanent staining of the treated surface from water, coffee, soda, milk or other commonly consumed food and liquids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats all. Should I also expect (because of the leather protection)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the leather to always be shiny?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spilled liquid on the leather to remain as beads and run off the edges? (similar to water repellent coating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no need to moisturise/rejuvenate the leather forever?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no cracking, splitting and discolouration can occur under normal butt movements?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to answer this based on the common understanding of &quot;leather protection&quot; that you can get from any car dealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14681" LastEditorUserId="14681" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T01:03:05.280" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T08:01:52.473" Title="What can you expect after applying leather protection?" Tags="|seat|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-02-10T16:04:24.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25880" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T07:16:37.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Basic Functionality&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image in order to illustrate a typical Multimeter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBubA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBubA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Multimeter is specifically a multifunction tool. By definition it combines several, well defined instruments and multiplexes the controls for simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Inputs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Majority of Multimeters will have 3 input terminals. Typically you will only use &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;V/mA/Ohm&lt;/code&gt; input (often Black and Red respectively, but not in the sample image). The third input is used for measuring particularly large currents. Some multimeters have 4 inputs for more precise measurements using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kelvin Sensing&lt;/a&gt; . In handheld devices this is typically seen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LCR_meter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LCR meters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltmeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltmeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&quot; alt=&quot;http://sub.allaboutcircuits.com/images/05078.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Voltmeter mode you must always perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;parallel&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit being measured, the circuit is &lt;strong&gt;powered&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic functionality of the voltmeter is to measure voltages, potential differences across two points in the circuit. Virtually all DMMs will have voltmeter functionality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the voltmeter modes are selected between 9:00 and 1:00 on the clock face. The flat bar represents DC mode and the Wiggly Line represents AC current. Either mode can safely be used interchangeably (affecting only reading accuracy) provided the voltage ratings are respected. Some multimeters will offer &lt;strong&gt;autoranging&lt;/strong&gt; feature that does not require you to select the range explicitly on the dial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in voltmeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establishing the presence of a control voltage on a signal line e.g. relay control line, fuel injectors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establishing the presence of a supply voltage on various circuits&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the voltage output of the regulator/alternator or battery&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ammeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In ammeter mode you must always perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;series&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit, the circuit is &lt;strong&gt;powered&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FY2cC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FY2cC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Files/4808/6/fig7_multimeter-series-measure-current.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic functionality of the ammeter is to measure electric current. In ammeter mode it will damage the DMM and possibly blow a fuse on the car if you connect your DMM in parallel to a live circuit, that is - in a way that it would measure a voltage were it in voltmeter mode.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the ammeter modes are selected between 1:00 and 4:00 on the clock face. Note that the highest range setting on this device (and many others) requires you to use the alternate high current input. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an ammeter, when diagnosing a live circuit that should be on (e.g. lamp with switch turned on), the reading you get will inform you of the kind of fault on the circuit, a high current reading means a short circuit, a zero current means an open circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in ammeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing for leakage - battery current when the car is turned off &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohmmeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ohmmeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In ohmmeter mode you should perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;parallel&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit, the circuit  must be &lt;strong&gt;unpowered&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xW6X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xW6X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://image.slidesharecdn.com/howtouseadigitalmultimeter-100726083407-phpapp01/95/how-to-use-a-digital-multimeter-14-728.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ohmmeter measures the resistance between two terminals. The resistance determines the amount of current a device will draw at a fixed supply voltage. Typically &quot;analogue&quot; components on a car like lights, relays, switches, fuses, etc. will have a relatively low resistance, several ohms to 100 or so. Resistance for other components (e.g. sensors, injectors) can be compared against specification to detect failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the ohmmeter modes are selected between 6:00 and 9:00 on the clock face. Note that on this device, the 2,000 (2k) Ohm setting is multiplexed for continuity readings (more on that later), secondary modes is often selected with the ubiquitous &quot;conspicuous unmarked button&quot;. There is no harm (except the risk of getting no reading) in selecting the wrong range on the device&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in ohmmeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify the resistance of electrical components like injectors, lights, relays&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Identify short circuits and open circuits, sometimes you have very low ohm &quot;not-so-short circuits&quot; that will not trip the continuity meter beep&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify the continuity of a fuse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional Modes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitance_meter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Capacitance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely seen on cheap DMMs and never on automotive ones, used to verify the capacitance. Lots of caveats for use and not the most useful feature for automotive repair and diagnostics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_tester&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continuity Tester&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat redundant to the ohmmeter mode in terms of diagnostic capability. The primary benefit is the loud BEEEP, that it emits when there is continuity, allowing you to focus your eyes not on the DMM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diode Testing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often multiplexed with the continuity mode, the reading it gives you while measuring continuity is the voltage required to make the diode conduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duty_cycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duty Cycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful automotive feature, allows diagnosis of electrical engine components that use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pulse Width Modulation&lt;/a&gt; - e.g. injectors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RPM Meter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful automotive feature that detects engine RPM from the noise induced on a supply line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transistor Characterization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funny &quot;hfe&quot; mode and three pin connector is for testing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bipolar_junction_transistor#Transistor_parameters:_alpha_.28.CE.B1.29_and_beta_.28.CE.B2.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;transistor beta&lt;/a&gt; . Somewhat of a gimmick and not useful for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N91c6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N91c6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your DMM has a funny yellow connector with the K symbol, this is for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermocouples&lt;/a&gt;. The DMM should have a &quot;C/F&quot; mode for measuring the temperature. The probe type is important so match the letter type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Digital Multimiter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Voltage, Resistance, continuity settings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Automotive specific DMM's are typically the same device but may have a few extra features (Duty Cycle, RPM)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAUTION&lt;/strong&gt;: Certain modes on the multimeter can cause damage to the device or your car if improperly hooked up. Never connect the DMM to a circuit in parallel when it is on the ampere setting (take caution when changing setting with probes attached), never use continuity testing on a live circuit unless the device specifically is ok with it. Do not measure Resistance on a live circuit. &lt;em&gt;some tests will require you to have battery on  and others will require you to disconnect the battery&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Test Leads and Test Jigs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimum set includes basic contact probes (comes with DMM) and Aligator Clips. First thing to get is 20 ft banana plug extension to extend your probes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A set of automotive connectors with test leads for easy probing would be the next thing to acquire. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Tools that you May Want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OBDII Reader for pulling codes and getting gross sensor data&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CAN sniffer for low level communications testing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oscilloscope for thoroughly verifying electrical signals &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soldering iron to make electrical jigs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all testing, make sure to find, print, and understand the wiring diagram for your car, it will make your life much easier if you can use the diagram to determine the expected connections, voltages, and signals at any node where to find them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Testing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive electrics for Conventional (non hybrid combustion) cars can be broken  down roughly into three domains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Components: Charger, Alternator, Starter, &quot;Power Circuit&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Analog Components: lights, relays, fuses, low current power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer Components: ECU's and advanced sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between Category &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; is that &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; is before the fuse box (directly to battery with fewer protective elements) and &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; is generally fused circuits. Greater precautions need to be taken to avoid crowbarring the battery, whereas a fuse will protect you from mistakes.  Category &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; will require some additional or specialty tools. However, elements of category &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; will have some overlap with &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;, you can verify some very basic functionality without busting out a sniffer (test power supply to components, shorts and breaks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power/Analog Components&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here everything is about long and convoluted harnesses, fuses, relays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the wiring diagram in hand the First stop is to identify the relays and fuses that are controlling or protecting the circuit believed to be at fault. Verify Continuity between connected nodes (e.g. if the fuse for the headlights connects directly to relay, verify - with the battery disconnected - that there is continuity between the fuse panel and relay panel). Verify/replace fuses and relays. Continuity check everything you can to eliminate harness/wiring damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a basic continuity check we can move on to signal verification tests. With the battery connected you can test voltages at key points on the circuit. Relays that are supposed to be on will have 9-12V on the control pin, verify power at the fuse panel by removing fuses and checking the voltages on related pins. Where you expect a voltage make sure you are reading a voltage. You can compare the voltages on every pin of a relay socket with relay installed and relay removed (this is where connector jigs come in handy) , this will help you further narrow the problem search. You can use the wiring diagram to unambiguously determine which circuits should be on/powered with given switch/key positions. Any signal pins that go to the ECU (related to the faulty circuit) should be noted and tested later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functional tests can be performed on most components. Using a 12V supply that is not the car battery you can check relays, pneumatics/valves, lights, fans. etc. by connecting the supply across the relevant pins. Lights will turn on, pneumatics will tick, relays will tock, fans will spin, and pumps will whir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Computer Components&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verifying ECU and sensor functionality can range from easy to complicated. The most basic check you can do is to verify that the power supply lines to these devices have the required voltage (can typically be done right at the connector) and verifying the relevant fuses and relays supplying power to that circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the supply is present then you can dive down the rabbit hole of troubleshooting sensors and computer electronics. The first step is to verify that the device is functioning, this will require looking up the part number determining the signal the device supplies to the ECU. Analog signals can be read using a DMM, digital signals will require a sniffer or oscilloscope. You can also test with a known-good device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sensor appears to be functioning but the relevant system is malfunctioning the best bet is to take a CAN sniffer (the majority of intelligent sensing elements send their data to the ECU with a shared bus called CAN) and capture the communications data. It may be difficult to interpret the communications, but in general I would suspect the following . &lt;strong&gt;no signal&lt;/strong&gt; - Broken connection, dead/damaged device or ecu. &lt;strong&gt;gibberish data&lt;/strong&gt; (Look at the data sheet for the device to see how it formats data)- Damaged device, digital noise/damaged wiring , corrupt ECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More on using a Multimeter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sparkfun have a guide on using meters, with loads of pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guide!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aimed at hobbyist electrical stuff, but the principles are the same here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T23:37:57.183" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T23:37:57.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25881" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T07:16:37.290" Score="0" Body="A multimeter is an electrical troubleshooting tool that typically measures AC and DC volts, amps and ohms. " OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T07:16:37.290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T07:16:37.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T07:36:13.397" Score="5" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Hyundai Elentra. Until yesterday every thing was fine. Yesterday I noticed the car was not accelerating normally.  I also noticed my gas pedal basically had almost no movement. No strange noises, the transmission seems to be shifting correctly.  The problem seems directly linked to the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14945" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T07:48:57.557" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T07:48:57.557" Title="what would cause lack of movement in the gas pedal, causing slow acceleration?" Tags="|fuel-system|automatic-transmission|hyundai|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T12:41:58.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25816" CreationDate="2016-02-10T09:11:00.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Basic Functionality&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image In order to illustrate a typical Multimeter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBubA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rBubA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Multimeter is specifically a multifunction tool. By definition it combines several, well defined instruments and multiplexes the controls for simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Inputs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Majority of Multimeters will have 3 input terminals. Typically you will only use &lt;code&gt;COM&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;V/mA/Ohm&lt;/code&gt; input (often Black and Red respectively, but not in the sample image). The third input is used for measuring particularly large currents. Some multimeters have 4 inputs for more precise measurements using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kelvin Sensing&lt;/a&gt; . In handheld devices this is typically seen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LCR_meter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LCR Meters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltmeter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltmeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA3K9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA3K9.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://sub.allaboutcircuits.com/images/05078.png&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Voltmeter mode you must always perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;parallel&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit being measured, the circuit is &lt;strong&gt;powered&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic functionality of the voltmeter is to measure voltages, potential differences across two points in the circuit. Virtualy all DMM's will have voltmeter functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the voltmeter modes are selected between 9:00 and 1:00 on the clock face. The flat bar represents DC mode and the Wiggly Line represents AC current. Either mode can safely be used interchangeably (affecting only reading accuracy) provided the voltage ratings are respected. Some multimeters will offer &lt;strong&gt;autoranging&lt;/strong&gt; feature that does not require you to select the range explicitly on the dial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in voltmeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establishing the presence of a control voltage on a signal line e.g. relay control line, fuel injectors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establishing the presence of a supply voltage on various circuits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the voltage output of the regulator/alternator or battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammeter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ammeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In ammeter mode you must always perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;series&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit, the circuit is &lt;strong&gt;powered&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FY2cC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FY2cC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.cdn.sciencebuddies.org/Files/4808/6/fig7_multimeter-series-measure-current.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic functionality of the ammeter is to measure electric current. In ammeter mode it will damage the DMM and possibly blow a fuse on the car if you connect your DMM in parallel to a live circuit, that is - in a way that it would measure a voltage were it in voltmeter mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the ammeter modes are selected between 1:00 and 4:00 on the clock face. Note that the highest range setting on this device (and many others) requires you to use the alternate high current input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an ammeter, when diagnosing a live circuit that should be on (e.g. lamp with switch turned on), the reading you get will inform you of the kind of fault on the circuit, a high current reading means a short circuit, a zero current means an open circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in ammeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing for leakage - battery current when the car is turned off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohmmeter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ohmmeter&lt;/a&gt; Mode&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In ohmmeter mode you should perform measurements in &lt;strong&gt;parallel&lt;/strong&gt; with the circuit, the circuit  must be &lt;strong&gt;unpowered&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xW6X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xW6X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://image.slidesharecdn.com/howtouseadigitalmultimeter-100726083407-phpapp01/95/how-to-use-a-digital-multimeter-14-728.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ohmmeter measures the resistance between two terminals. The resistance determines the amount of current a device will draw at a fixed supply voltage. Typically &amp;quot;analogue&amp;quot; components on a car like lights, relays, switches, fuses, etc. will have a relatively low resistance, several ohms to 100 or so. Resistance for other components (e.g. sensors, injectors) can be compared against specification to detect failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the representative device shown in the image, the ohmmeter modes are selected between 6:00 and 9:00 on the clock face. Note that on this device, the 2,000 (2k) Ohm setting is multiplexed for continuity readings (more on that later), secondary modes is often selected with the ubiquitous &amp;quot;conspicuous unmarked button&amp;quot;. There is no harm (except the risk of getting no reading) in selecting the wrong range on the device&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways you can use the DMM in ohmmeter mode for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify the resistance of electrical components like injectors, lights, relays&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Identify short circuits and open circuits, sometimes you have very low ohm &amp;quot;not-so-short circuits&amp;quot; that will not trip the continuity meter beep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verify the continuity of a fuse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional Modes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitance_meter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Capacitance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely seen on cheap DMM's and never on automotive ones, used to verify the capacitance. Lots of caveats for use and not the most useful feature for automotive repair and diagnostics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_tester&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continuity Tester&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat redundant to the ohmmeter mode in terms of diagnostic capability. The primary benefit is the loud BEEEP, that it emits when there is continuity, allowing you to focus your eyes not on the dmm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diode Testing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often multiplexed with the continuity mode, the reading it gives you while measuring continuity is the voltage required to make the diode conduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duty_cycle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duty Cycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful automotive feature, allows diagnosis of electrical engine components that use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pulse Width Modulation&lt;/a&gt; - e.g. injectors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RPM Meter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful automotive feature that detects engine RPM from the noise induced on a supply line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transistor Characterization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funny &amp;quot;hfe&amp;quot; mode and three pin connector is for testing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bipolar_junction_transistor#Transistor_parameters:_alpha_.28.CE.B1.29_and_beta_.28.CE.B2.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;transistor beta&lt;/a&gt; . Somewhat of a gimmick and not useful for automotive purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N91c6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N91c6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your DMM has a funny yelow connector with the K symbol, this is for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thermocouples&lt;/a&gt;. The DMM should have a &amp;quot;C/F&amp;quot; mode for measuring the temperature. The probe type is important so match the letter type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:14:13.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2273" CreationDate="2016-02-10T09:30:48.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unbalance tires maybe one of the reason. You may want to go to the shop and have its alignment checked. If they are new, you may have a free check up where you purchased them which i have done before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14519" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:28:03.790" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:28:03.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T09:34:10.037" Score="3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running low on fuel in a gasoline powered car I guess driving at a constant speed is best and turning off  stuff like the AC would be wise .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose keeping the car in a reasonably high gear would be good too? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what is the best speed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If too fast air drag will suck the gas but if too slow the poor part load efficiency of the Internal combustion  engine  would burn the fuel anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this speed higher for larger cars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this speed quite broad ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it different for a diesel ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the story for an electric car ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would the optimum speed be real slow ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T08:38:25.260" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T08:38:25.260" Title="What driving speed gives the best fuel economy?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-02-10T16:10:20.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25878" CreationDate="2016-02-10T10:22:21.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, this answer will be primarily opinion based, but I would say &quot;general wear and tear&quot; is whatever your butt can do to them. Which is basically anything mentioned except stains. Stains on leather seats is pretty darn rare unless they are not coated or you somehow managed to spill something extremely nasty, so usefulness of this &quot;lifetime protection&quot; is debatable. You can't prove that the seats cracked or discolored because of UV light unless you haven't driven the car at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leather will probably stay shiny, but cracks and tears will form naturally after more or less time (years probably) and seats should discolor eventually as a cause of friction between leather and your clothing. Spilled liquid will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; not bead up, as that requires an expensive hydrophobic surface forming or a hydrophobic coating (which would not last long at all). Liquid will simply not be absorbed and you can wipe it off without damage to seats. As far as I know coated seats do not need to be moisturized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T08:01:52.473" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T08:01:52.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T12:40:59.417" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when i change to Reverse, there is strange noise from inside of the car, whats possible cause?&#xA;the transmission is auto, AL4, and the noise is even if i m not moving(brake pedal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14589" LastEditorUserId="14589" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T13:24:46.333" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T06:37:08.440" Title="citroen c5 2007, AL4, noise when on R" Tags="|transmission|citroen|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T21:57:58.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25872" CreationDate="2016-02-10T13:50:15.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world from a physics textbook, you might be able to ask the question you have, and expect to compare time vs. engine speed, but there are many more factors in the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed-agnostic measure is Miles Per Gallon (or l/km).  Speed doesn't appear in the name, because it doesn't matter.  At higher speeds, things like wind resistance and your tire's rolling resistance have a noticeable effect on fuel consumption.  If a car gets 21 MPG @ 80mph and 28 MPG at 50mph, the implication is clear - higher speed decrease fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US television show Mythbusters did some hypermiling (trying to get the best MPG at all costs) tests as outlined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moneytalksnews.com/mythbusters-use-hypermiling-improve-gas-mileage-70-percent/&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and found that 45mph is generally the best speed for decreasing fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T13:50:15.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25892" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:36:25.390" Score="23" ViewCount="21120" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost every case I can think of, the larger vehicles with four wheel power are 4x4, and the smaller ones AWD. As far as my experience goes, AWD is much more convenient, and also works at least as well on ice as 4x4 (at least 4h), and allows a rotational difference between front and rear axles, which 4x4 doesn't. I'm mainly talking about permanent AWD, but I suppose this question can apply also to driver controlled AWD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the reasoning behind this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T05:10:24.153" Title="Why do pickups and large SUV's use 4x4 and generally not AWD?" Tags="|4wd|awd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:05:46.150" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really think that it's more of a naming convention issue but there is a marked difference between 4x4 and AWD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 4x4 all the wheels are &quot;guaranteed&quot; power. Power is sent from the engine to the transfer case and then the transfer case sends it to the front axle and rear axle. The reason I put guaranteed in quotes is because there is such a thing as full time 4x4 where the transfer case has a differential inside that allows slip between the front and rear. If you were to tie a 4x4 to a stump and pull until the wheels broke loose, then just before the wheel start spinning the front axle takes 50% of the load and the rear takes 50% of the load. When the wheels start spinning, at least one wheel in the front and one wheel in the back will start spinning at the same time. This is due to open differentials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In AWD only one axle is guaranteed power while the wheels are not slipping. These systems tend to have a clutch of some kind that separates the axles. The clutch could be viscus, Subaru tends to use these. When the speed of the front axle does not match the rear the clutch will spin internally and heat up. When it's hot enough it locks the front and rear axles together. When it's cool enough it unlocks again. The clutch could be electromechanical, Mazda uses these. If AWD is allowed then an electromagnetic solenoid turn on half the clutch. When the speed of the axles does not match then second half of the clutch comes on to lock the axles together. The clutch could be built into a differential, Audi uses these. The power is split 60:40 and when a set of wheels starts to slip the clutches redirect power to the other axle. If you were to tie an AWD to a stump and pull until the wheels broke loose, then just before the wheels broke loose one axle will carry 100% of the load. When the wheels start spinning the axle with 100% of the power will spin for a short amount of time until the front and rear axles are tied together. When the axles are tied together the wheels that were spinning will slow down or stop and additional power will be required to break loose all the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trucks need the ability to send power to both axles at the same time. This need comes from the fact that the true purpose of trucks is to do work. To quote a comedian &quot;if you need to haul an airplane up the side of a mountain&quot; you would use a truck. The guaranteed 50:50 split distributes the power evenly at all times and does not need to come on and off. The 50:50 split also makes sure that the strain is distributed, that neither the front nor the rear axle bare more strain than the other. There is a huge downside to 4x4. True 4x4 &lt;strong&gt;can not&lt;/strong&gt; be driven on a dry hard surface for long. When driving there is a small difference in speed between the front and rear axle, especially in turns. This difference in speed builds up and causes the axles to fight each other causing tire scrubbing and jerking the steering wheel. As mentioned above some 4x4 vehicles mimic AWD by also having a differential in the transfer case. This differential can be locked and unlocked to go from part time 4x4 and full time 4x4. A major upside to 4x4 is that it can tolerate a 100% duty cycle. This means that the vehicle can be driven with constantly slipping wheels indefinitely. The transfer case builds no additional heat or bares any additional wear when compared to normal operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some AWD systems can imitate true 4x4 action by positively locking the link between the front and rear axles. If that link is not positively locked then some modicum of slip has to occur before the system reacts. Marketing literature usually says that they react instant. There is no such thing as instantly, only really fast. &quot;Really fast&quot; means that for some time, no matter how small, one axle is favored over the other. Also AWD systems can not tolerate 100% duty cycle. Because the systems almost always employ some type of clutch mechanism, a build up of heat and wear will result from continuous use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T16:47:55.667" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:47:55.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:10:07.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;4WD has the best traction in off road conditions, which is mainly what most larger vehicles are used for. As well as this, 4WD offers better fuel economy which is generally more favorable in a larger vehicle as these will already have a greater fuel consumption due to their added weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct about AWD being at least as good in conditions such as ice. It is actually the best performer of the 2 in all road conditions due to its increased grip and traction. To answer your question about the smaller cars generally having AWD systems. You will find that these are usually sporty versions and an AWD system provides better handling. AWD also has a higher fuel consumption which is not really worried about in a sports car as its main selling point is to be fast, not have the best MPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about the differences here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/whats-the-difference-between-four-wheel-drive-and-all-wheel-drive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/whats-the-difference-between-four-wheel-drive-and-all-wheel-drive/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14924" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:10:07.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25895" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:36:17.623" Score="9" ViewCount="14794" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;Keep Alive Memory&quot; (KAM) and how is it different from RAM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read over the internet, it is kept alive even after the ignition is OFF, but isn't that what a ROM is supposed to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14953" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T16:15:00.017" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T12:48:20.993" Title="Keep Alive Memory (KAM)" Tags="|electronic-control-module|ram|automotive-design|bcm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:46:52.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;KAM remains powered when the ignition is off due to the fact it receives power from the battery. It is the same as RAM in the sense that it is a volatile form of memory and will lose its data if power is lost, this is what makes it different to ROM which is non-volatile and does not require power to store data. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The KAM stores details about vehicle usage such a fuel tables and is reset by disconnecting the battery and allowing them to discharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful example are radio presets, these are lost when the battery is disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it far more convenient over ROM as disconnecting a battery is far simpler than connecting to the ECU and performing a wipe of the ROM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14924" LastEditorUserId="14924" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T09:08:51.567" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T09:08:51.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:48:04.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I have seen, &quot;Keep Alive Memory&quot; can be cleared by removing power from the car by disconnecting the battery. ROM is &quot;Read Only Memory&quot; and is permanent at the chip level. Yes there are various kinds of ROM that can be rewritten but at the highest level the chip itself retains the contents and requires no power to do this. Keep Alive Memory requires power to keep the memory contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:48:04.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6584" CreationDate="2016-02-10T15:55:13.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, turned out to be the green / white wire on the right rear cluster.&#xA;Simple easy fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14954" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:55:13.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22906" CreationDate="2016-02-10T16:11:30.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After referencing the comments above and taking it into a different dealer, I had it confirmed that it was the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;known&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; issue with Audi's electric steering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They fixed it by replacing the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:11:30.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25860" CreationDate="2016-02-10T16:29:48.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern headlight bulbs have two filaments in the same glass enclosure: one for low beams, one for high beams. I imagine that you use low beams most of the time, so the corresponding filament burned out sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have this problem only with one headlight, I believe this is the reason. If you have this issue with both, I'd start with the fuses and relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14343" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T17:00:53.880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:00:53.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25764" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:06:42.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 things I would look for.  Alternator as previously mentioned, and grounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic alternator test is to connect a multimeter to the battery while the engine is running.  The voltage should be about 13.5-14.2v.  Turn on the headlights to see if this value drops.  If it falls out of range, your alternator is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing is bad grounds.  When there isn't a good ground, electrical components will follow any route they can to find ground.  Start with the battery, make sure the connections are tight and clean.  Follow the ground (black) wire, it should go the body or engine.  Make sure this is good and tight.  Look around the engine wiring harness, there should be several places where it connects to the body.  Make sure these are good.  Lastly, check around the ECU and any other body control modules you may have.  You may want to find a schematic for your car to help find the grounds.  You will also be able to see the headlight circuit to see if it interferes with anything else (which it shouldn't).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought.  If you only turn on the tail lights (1 click), does it have the same effect? If you pull the headlight fuses and turn on the headlights, does it have the same effect?  Wondering if there might be something weird going on in the headlight switch or someplace else in the circuit(tail lights, dash lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:06:42.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25866" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:24:15.177" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an easy question to answer, but I will give it a shot. First off, a flat plane crankshaft means all journals are on the same plane, so if you looked at it straight on it would have all journals in a line, straight up and down. A cross plane engine, when looking from the end straight on would look more like an X, evenly spaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons to use one configuration over another. A flat plane design does not require counterbalance weights on the crankshaft. That allows for less inertia, higher possible rpm's, and faster acceleration. Although it is a little less refined as far as vibrations go. This is one reason this engine design is used in most V8 race car engine designs, but not used in most production cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several factors influence firing order, but in a flat plane 90 degree V8 there are only a few choices. First of all, it depends on how the cylinders are numbered by the manufacturer. Some number their engines with number 1 on the right bank (1,3,5,7), number 2 front left (2,4,6,8) and so on, one accross from the other. Some have number 1 on the left front cylinder and number straight down that side to number 4 (1,2,3,4) and the front right cylinder is number 5 going back to number 8 (5,6,7,8) on the right bank. Ferrari numbers theirs starting on the right front with number 4, and continue on that bank 4,3,2,1. The other bank would be 8,7,6,5. In a flat plane V, regardless of the numbering system, the firing order always fires one bank, then the other bank. Notice the firing orders you listed. All have one side firing, then the other. All have numbers 1 and 4, 360 degrees apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of a flat plane V8 as two 4 cylinder engines put together, one on each bank. If you look at the firing order for the Ferrari, and the numbering system they use, every other number is on the same bank. This is the normal firing pattern for a typical 4 cylinder engine (1,3,4,2). The same is true for the other bank using the other bank numbers (5,7,8,6). This is the same pattern. Put the two together and you have their firing order (1,5,3,7,4,8,2,6). Because the V is at 90 degrees, this means each cylinder fires 90 degrees apart, and directly opposite on each bank. If you want to change the firing order, change the camshaft and it changes the order, but always 1 and 4, and 5 and 8 are opposite each other, as are 2 and 3, and 6 and 7. The numbers could swap order, but only in the pairs as shown (2,3 or 3,2 etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason for this configuration, with one cylinder firing one each bank in progression, is that it helps with exhaust scavenging, keeping the exhaust manifold very simple to make, and does not require any crossover pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps with your question. There is more information available here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.projectm71.com/Cross_FlatPlane.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.projectm71.com/Cross_FlatPlane.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:24:15.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25785" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:35:57.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimal engine temperature is about 190-210.  Running cold leads to higher fuel consumption and increased wear.  You want the engine temperature to be at least 165* F (~74* C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than having the fan run 100% of the time, it would be better to have it connected to a switch inside the cabin.  This way you can turn it on once the temperature starts to get high, and switch it off once it drops.  Make sure to put a fuse on there near the battery in case anything shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your coolant level.  If your temperature sender isn't submerged, it will read low (if it reads at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As  &quot;I have no idea what I'm doing&quot; said, check/replace your thermostat if the other 2 solutions do not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note.  Since you have a leak, you may be tempted to add water to your cooling system rather than a proper coolant mix.  This is dangerous for 2 reasons - the freezing point is higher, and the boiling point is lower.  There are 2 ways you increase the boiling point - mix with coolant and build pressure in your cooling system.  Most cooling systems can handle 16psi.  The boiling point is increased 3*F per pound of pressure.  If you have a leak, you will not be able to achieve this and your boiling over point will be lower.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:35:57.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25872" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:51:48.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of that depends on the type of vehicle, and your definition of 'fast'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this with a grain of salt, but a while back BBC's Top Gear did a test involving a V8 powered BMW M3 and a Toyota Prius. The Prius was driven as fast as it could go around their test track, while all the M3 had to do was keep up. After a few laps, the Prius had done ~18 mpg, while the M3 achieved ~20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several factors that could have caused this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the M3 is much faster than the Prius in a straight line, so while the Prius was buzzing it's little 4-banger engine to redline, the M3 could trundle along at half throttle, short-shifting, and never having to use more than a small fraction of its power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Prius approached a corner, it slammed on the brakes, scrubbing all the speed it worked so hard to achieve, so it could round the corner on its tiny, low grip eco-tires. The M3, on the other had, could coast into the corners, and retain much more speed due to its large, grippy, performance oriented rubber. &#xA;The suspension setup also provided the M3 with better cornering performance, while the soft suspension on the Prius was more comfort oriented. Same goes for weight distribution/center of gravity, aerodynamics etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the brakes has a direct, negative effect on MPGs, as you are essentially turning the gas you just used to speed up into heat energy in the brakes. In everyday driving, this generally lends benefit to slower drivers. When that light you were speeding toward turns yellow, you have to slam the middle pedal and waste all that gas you used getting to 50 mph, while grandma back there had only accelerated to 15 before coasting to a stop right next to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:51:48.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25910" CreationDate="2016-02-10T18:51:47.160" Score="4" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1986 for ranger that sounds sluggish on idle not bad just not great. &#xA;If I push a little on the gas the idle sounds perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how I can achieve the same affect automatically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:12:47.987" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:46:00.520" Title="How to increse Idle Air OR Gas - 1986 ford ranger" Tags="|ford|idle|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25907" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:41:01.990" Score="5" ViewCount="11382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start a circuit in my car when I insert my key in car ignition and let it turn off when the key gets removed. I have Honda Civic 2007.&#xA;Can someone just help me out as to from where do I take 12v connection which switches ON when a key gets inserted and switches Off when key gets removed. NOTE that I don't want to wait for a key to turn On the main ignition i.e ACC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I'm not any expert in electronics or electrical system. I'm a professional software developer and this is my hobby project. Actually my car security system doesn't allow the ignition system to On until I press a provided button switch hidden in console below the steering wheel. So I got an idea to replace that switch with an RFID card system. My RFID card system was a success and I tested that and everything works fine. But my system is connected all the time since I connected it with the main 12v line. Which I don't want. I only want it to run when I insert key so I could touch card which will ultimately switches On the main ignition system. And then only turn my system Off when I remove the key from the ignition system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14960" OwnerDisplayName="Humayun" LastEditorUserId="14960" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T19:49:03.280" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T20:29:46.847" Title="Start a circuit or device when you insert key in car ignition" Tags="|electrical|ignition|key|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25906" CreationDate="2016-02-10T18:08:43.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pretty safe fuse protected accessory circuit in your car is the one that powers your audio system. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modifiedlife.com/2007-honda-civic-car-stereo-radio-wiring-diagram/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this information&lt;/a&gt;, you're looking for the following wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Violet&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Car Radio Ground Wire: Black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By tapping into these wires, you can safely add a low power accessory circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you need more power than say, 1A, I usually use a piggyback fuse adapter like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcwPtm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcwPtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Piggyback fuse adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few styles of this kind of adapter available to match the fuse type in your vehicle. These adapter let you remove an existing fuse, insert the adapter and insert the original fuse and a new fuse for the new circuit that can be powered from the new flying lead. Find a fuse that's only live when the ignition is in ACC mode (audio system radio fuse perhaps?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to enable your new accessory circuit only when the key is inserted but not even turned to ACC yet, you will need to sense the &quot;key inserted&quot; signal. This signal is pulled up by the MICU and grounded by the key inserted switch. Here's the schematic:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZWco.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZWco.png&quot; alt=&quot;immobilizer 1 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3KvY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3KvY.png&quot; alt=&quot;immobilizer 2 of 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add a small +12VDC relay that's connected to &quot;always hot&quot; and protected by a fuse and activated by tapping into the Pink &quot;key detect&quot; wire which goes to ground when a key is inserted. This relay could then provide the power to your new accessory circuit. I would avoid adding a new 1A circuit directly grounded by the &quot;key inserted&quot; switch since this tiny microswitch is not designed to carry significant power but rather only as a small signal switch to ground to be detected by the MICU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14959" OwnerDisplayName="BartmanEH" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:10:00.773" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25906" CreationDate="2016-02-10T18:38:00.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To find the correct circuit you could probe the fuses. Check the voltage or insert an ampere meter instead of the fuse while inserting the key. Beware that you might blow the fuse of the ampere meter... My bets are on No 10 or 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIUkh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIUkh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Dejvid_no1" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T18:38:00.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25870" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:42:42.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An actuator is an electo-mechanical part.  If you take apart your door, it will likely be a small plastic box with power supplied to it, and will have a plunger that moves in/out when door is electronically or physically locked/unlocked.  In your image, it looks like that piece may be integrated directly into to the door latch shown (since there is a electical connection shown). Since it might be integrated (if that part is for your car), that could be the correct part. However in other cars it is a separate item and may be found in other locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:42:42.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25905" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:46:00.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on if you are carb or EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure everything is in proper working order - clean the carb/throttle body, no vac leaks, good fuel pressure, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, advance.  Any of these can give you a bad idle that may seem to disappear at higher RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EFI - your IACV controls the idle speed.  If it is not idling correctly, it is likely that either the IACV port is dirty, or malfunctioning.  There may be an idle screw, but this is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carb - there is typically an idle screw you can use to set the idle.  You might want to also consider the choke, fuel mixture and timing.  Make sure these are set/tuned to factory specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T19:46:00.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25911" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:48:04.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions which have no relevant tags&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T20:11:55.390" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T20:11:55.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25912" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:48:04.433" Score="0" Body="Avoid using this tag unless your question does not have any relevant tags." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T20:11:50.667" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T20:11:50.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25981" CreationDate="2016-02-10T19:52:51.193" Score="12" ViewCount="21856" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brake lights do not light up until I have pushed the pedal down by about 1cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I rest my foot on the brake pedal, with the brakes applied a little bit then the brake lights do not light up until I push down further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously a safety issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to fix this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it an easy fix?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: Is there a way to adjust and check the brake light switch?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T22:30:44.393" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T22:33:40.957" Title="Brake lights don't illuminate until pedal is pressed by about 5-10mm" Tags="|brakes|lights|opel|agila|brake-pedal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25921" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:16:10.690" Score="10" ViewCount="2885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand how the engagement of the clutches is varied. I see the power is transmitted through the center input shaft and is transmitted through the four pinion gears, but I don't understand how the engagement of the clutch(s) is controlled based on which axle has more/less traction. Its it a centrifugal mechanism that is not clearly illustrated, or maybe even the shape(conical?) of the pinion gears them selfs? One point I have heard is the front and rear Crown gears are of a different diameters and the diameter determines the torque split(Some what illustrated, larger diameter being the rear axle which statically gets 60% assuming even traction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One question I would like to answer from all this is, what would happen if traveling at a non-insignificant speed (45 Mph +), and the rear axle was stopped momentarily (imagine hitting the Emergency brake), what results could you expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wlpqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wlpqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14965" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:50:29.530" Title="How does Audi Crown Gear Center Differential work?" Tags="|transmission|audi|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:18:44.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are several advantages to upside down forks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rigidity&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Caliper Mounting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stability&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced Unsprung Weight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced Sprung Weight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced Stanchion Friction Levels&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased Stanchion to Slider Overlap&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of the lower portion of a pair of inverted forks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5n9II.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5n9II.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest delta between the legacy standard fork and an inverted fork is in their strength. Bending occurs just below the bottom of the yoke. When brakes are applied you are slowing the front wheel.  This reduced forward motion &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the momentum of the bike acts through the forks, trying to push the front wheel along.  The reduced inertia is felt at the yolk and the upper slider mounted within it.  The larger diameter slider allows for increased rigidity thereby transferring more energy directly to the frame rather than bending the slider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slider is made of lightweight material and it's increased diameter from standard forks does not increase weight significantly.  The stanchion which inserts into the slider is significantly shorter and has thinner walls.  This component is typically made of ferrous material and is significantly heavier than the slider.  Due the construction of the stanchion in an inverted fork, reduced length, this component in an inverted configuration offers great gains in weight and effects the unsprung weight of the front end.  Reduced unsprung weight results in performance gains regarding the wheels contact with the pavement making for a greater 'feel' for the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increased stanchion diameter has an effect on the bushings in the slider which are spaced further apart vertically and have a significant gain in surface area contact with the stanchion.  This allows for greater hydrodynamic lubrication and reduced friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caliper mounting points are also effected and now allow for radial or monoblock style brakes.  The mounting point at the bottom of the fork and the reduced stanchion length create less leverage, the larger bushings and increased surface are in conjunction allow for harder braking into corners.  The legacy standard design had a tendancy of locking the slider and the stanchion together under heavy braking when the stanchion broke through hydrodynamic lubrication and made metal to metal contact with the bushing.  This front end lockup under hard braking in a corner could have catastrophic consequences as the normally absorbed energy through uneven roadway contact was transferred directly to the contact patch of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;USD's have a bit more complexity than standard forks, especially the nitrogen charged versions.  Additional components and bladders for nitrogen retention require professional maintenance with special tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal failure in USD's require a higher level of urgency for maintenance as the oil within the fork is retained above the seal in this design.  Under those circumstances fork oil will be discharged upon the brake disc, brake caliper, wheel and tire.  Due to the retention mechanism for the seal it is rare that a catastrophic seal failure will occur where oil is sprayed upon these components but it has been known to happen under rare circumstances, typically due to the human error in re-assembly of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, due to added complexity of components, cost of USD's over standard forks are significant.  This also applies to the plethora of tools required to rebuild USD's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wet and dry seal replacement&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen recharge&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bushing replacement&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;R&amp;amp;R oil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance tasks are basically the same as standard forks as the list above denotes.  Special tools are required for driving seals, oil level height measurement, fork cap installation and nitrogen charging (if they are nitrogen charged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inverted forks decrease internal friction of components and &quot;add lightness&quot;.  Increased rigidity creates stability and brake mount points increase safety while braking in turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USD or Inverted Fork Cross Section*&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alui9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/alui9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* &lt;em&gt;image from RaceTek&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T20:15:05.233" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:15:05.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:03:26.723" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the things the other answers neglected to mention and is probably the key point between AWD and 4x4 is that AWD transfer cases will almost always be a single speed differential. The 4x4 will almost always have 4-wheel high and 4-wheel low ranges &lt;em&gt;and be selectable&lt;/em&gt;. This provides more torque if the driver deems the situation to need it. 4x4 may also have an &quot;automatic 4wd&quot; feature which ties in the hubs to the differential, but won't apply power to the front unless there is slippage at the rear wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, it is easy to see why there is the difference between the two and how they are applied by the manufacturer. It comes down to &lt;em&gt;usage&lt;/em&gt;. Trucks and larger vehicles are used more towards utility: towing vehicles/trailers; pulling stumps. They sometimes require the extra torque needed to perform these tasks. Smaller vehicles with AWD are almost always used for passenger comfort and safety and don't require the extra torque. &lt;em&gt;They have the AWD mainly for added traction&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; Like most things, please note the above is not an absolute, but general reasoning. Some large vehicles have AWD (ie: Hummer H2). I'm sure there are smaller vehicles with selectable 4WD as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:03:26.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25304" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:15:01.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While researching an answer for another post I came across this. The Audi Crown Gear Central Differential splits power between the front and rear 40/60. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWwf0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWwf0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is accomplished by a quazai differential/planetary gear set. If you know how a differential works the explanation is a little easier. The power comes in through what you could call the spider gears. The trick is that the spider gear pushes on the front side gear in a different place than the rear side gear. This gives a different torque output to the front and rear axles while maintaining the same speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wlpqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wlpqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:15:01.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25953" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:34:25.730" Score="6" ViewCount="4107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about the inner workings of a car. For driving one, I find that having an rough idea about what the gearbox, engine and clutch do and where they are is often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for the life of me I can't figure out one thing. You know when you want to get the car moving again from a complete stop, you raise the clutch to the biting point, release the brake and start to accelerate? As the clutch gets to the biting point yet &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the car is able to move, for the wheels are kept still by the brake, the front of the car lifts up. What is lifting the front of the car up? Surely if the wheels are not actually rotating, inertia isn't the cause. What's at work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you object to the question enough to downvote it, why not explain yourself and suggest ways to improve it?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14971" LastEditorUserId="14971" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T06:15:13.153" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T06:15:13.153" Title="Why is it that the front of the car lifts up when releasing the clutch?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25915" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:50:29.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This set up is a quazai differential/planetary gear set. This can make it difficult to see how it functions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power comes in from the transmission and into the pinon gear carrier and pinon gears. The pinon gears then transfer power to the front and rear crown gears. While the speed of the front and rear axles is the same the pinons do not rotate on their axis. This guarantees that the differential housing is also rotating at the same speed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the front axle, for example, starts to spin faster because it lost traction the front crown will spin faster. Because the speed of the two crowns is not the same the pinon gears start to spin on their axis. The spinning causes the pinon carrier to spin faster which also causes the differential housing to spin faster. Because the differential housing has a set of clutches attaching it to the crown it will drag the slower crown along trying to speed it up. This sends power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit the parking break while driving at high speed and lets say lock up the wheels the front wheels will just roll. Because you shouldn't be hitting the gas pedal in the process the speed difference will get sent into the transmission which will be free wheeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:50:29.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25924" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:51:06.550" Score="7" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the type to read the owners manual of everything I buy. I am a new driver and I have just read my owner's manual. As the questions says, it's telling me not to instantly shift to revers when I have just driven forward. I understand that I have to be at full stop to shift to reverse. (as it also said, and at least that part makes sense) but why wait for a few seconds in neutral to shift into reverse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 5 speed Manual 1.5 Gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="13642" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T00:04:06.927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T00:04:06.927" Title="Car manual says I have to wait a few seconds before shifting to reverse, why?" Tags="|transmission|shifting|parking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:55:11.040" Score="2" ViewCount="2674" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Volvo diesel D13 creates boost at low RPM's at various amounts of level and at any given time; the fuel mileage has gone down by 1.5 miles per gallon. The waste gate was replaced and the computer was reprogrammed twice with no improvement. &#xA;Help please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14973" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T02:23:29.070" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T22:42:28.593" Title="Volvo D13 Boost and fuel mileage problem" Tags="|diesel|volvo|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25922" CreationDate="2016-02-10T23:59:01.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is to protect the transmission. I don't know if your vehicle is automatic or reverse, but in either case it is good practice to completely stop the vehicle before going from one direction to the other. By telling you to stop the vehicle for several seconds, it ensures you are completely stopped. Even rolling a little can cause damage as it puts a high amount of stress on the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T23:59:01.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25928" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:17:10.863" Score="7" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware that a car has to be at full stop in order to shift to reverse. Then I saw a video which was able to do a reverse without even stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Insane parking&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34IptxoHoYo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34IptxoHoYo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As most cars don't allow you to shift to reverse without stopping, is there an exiting transmission technology that can allow this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T01:12:25.227" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T12:40:53.103" Title="Are there cars that can shift to reverse even while moving?" Tags="|transmission|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25914" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:36:42.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is normal. There will be a little free play in the linkages to the master cylinder/ brake fluid compressing in the brake lines so the brakes will not be applying until you push the pedal further any way. It reduces the risk of your brake lights flickering while driving if pedal is bumped. But I am not a mechanic. I've driven truck for many years I do know what your talking about, I've noticed that myself, lights do not come on instantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be interesting to follow up. Good luck. In regards to the earlier answer. I would think you would need to bring the switch contact closer to the pedal to come on sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an adjustment to your brakes be sure to test your brakes many times before heading to the road. If the pedal bottoms out on the switch it may not allow the pedal to reach the vehicles stopping point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14777" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T02:26:41.157" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:26:41.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25779" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:43:06.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the firing order alternates from one bank to the other it could be (and probably is) a flat plane engine. If the firing order has any two cylinders on the same bank fire in succession, it cannot be a flat plane engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T00:43:06.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25925" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:50:41.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a distinction that needs made between an automatic and a manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of automatics will lock out reverse above a particular speed usually several miles an hour. If the car is below that speed reverse will engage while still moving forward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a manual transmission everything depends on if reverse is synchronized. If it's not then you will have a hard time jamming the transmission in gear. If it is synchronized then it's not that hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T00:50:41.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25925" CreationDate="2016-02-11T00:56:19.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 1969 Chevy Malibu and we would do the opposite, back up fast, turn the wheel hard, slide the car so the front end comes around.  While it is in motion, drop it into drive so that when the front end lines up with the direction of travel you straighten the wheel, hit the gas and you never stop. So you go from backing up, spin the car and keep on going!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes older cars would go into reverse at any speed but usually with great damage to the tranny. A friend of mine had a child that shifted his floor shift into reverse on the highway. Lots of smoke from the tires before he could get it back to drive. It didn't damage that one, at least not immediately!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T00:56:19.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25932" CreationDate="2016-02-11T02:20:49.040" Score="10" ViewCount="116485" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title pretty much explains, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change my oil every 4-6k miles depending on how generous I’m feeling, however will the oil dirty oil that’s already in the sump mix with the clean oil when topping up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I just top up but in this case I have had to drain about half a litre out on two occasions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First when I changed the oil as I overfilled  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second when topping up (overfilled again after 3k miles) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it's had quite a bit of new oil mixed with the original stuff, just wondering will the new stuff mix fine with the old, if not I’m going do an early change and try not to be such a dope when topping up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T06:48:16.007" Title="Okay to add new oil to old?" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-change|lubrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25931" CreationDate="2016-02-11T02:39:35.323" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing new with the old will cause you absolutely no issues. As long as you are using the same weight oil, it will mix up and you'd never know it. Continue to change your oil at the specified interval and you should be golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T02:39:35.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25965" CreationDate="2016-02-11T02:59:32.143" Score="4" ViewCount="5505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went up to 6 rpm and then tried to shift to second gear aggressively and unknowingly the clutch was not fully depressed I think and the gear change failed of course I heard the gears grinding but I also felt something stop moving in the gear knob while holding it. The car drove fine after that but how much damage did I do to the transmission? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T02:30:34.323" Title="Tried to shift but failed at very high rpm how much damage did I cause" Tags="|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2016-02-11T03:05:11.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just starting having this trouble with my 2008 Golf 1.9 TDI. Had to call NRMA service but when he arrived checked the battery and all was fine. Couldn't find an ignition fuse to get the ignition up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some stuffing around the car started fine. NRMA said that it can be that the ECU has lost the key encryption and some cars have a port (hidden location) where you insert the key to regain the encryption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have regenerated the problems a few times now and it just seems that the key is a bit loose in the switch. Wriggle it a bit and dash lights come up again. Will advise how it goes when I take it in for service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14950" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T03:05:11.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25933" CreationDate="2016-02-11T03:06:39.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Probably Nothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what your car model and year are but most modern vehicles have what is called a rev limiter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rev limiters are typically electric in nature and cut out the ignition spark on cylinders when the RPM's exceed the manufacturers max limit on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents the engine from getting damage due to excessive RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; (and I know you didn't) you went from 4th gear to 2nd at 70mph, or something like this, the rev limiter would do you know good because you engine RPM's would not be controlled by combustion at that time.  They would be controlled by the rotation of the tires and a direct connection to your engine via the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen young people put their foot on the gas and take it to the floor in neutral and just run their engine against the rev limiter a few times, just to make the noise.  I will say this isn't good for you car and I don't recommend doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a safety mechanism that prevents damage to your vehicle when you encounter a situation like you did.  Missing a shift won't hurt a modern vehicle with a rev limiter.  You should have nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T03:33:42.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T03:33:42.553" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25942" CreationDate="2016-02-11T03:23:17.547" Score="7" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchases a manual transmission 1.5 Honda Mobilio. Which claimed to be a drive by wire vehicle and I assume it really is (don't know how to tell if a car is drive by wire). I am a new driver and on my observation, when I take the key out, the steering is ultra hard to turn at all compared to me turning the key to II or ON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user manual also says, steering may be disabled when car is off or hard to control when the car is off, warning me about free wheeling down a hill with the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is the main reason for the disabled steering the drive-by-wire system or is it because of the power steering system not present when off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T09:18:28.757" Title="Drive by wire disables steering when car is off?" Tags="|power-steering|steering|driving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25940" CreationDate="2016-02-11T03:26:59.153" Score="8" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchases a manual transmission 1.5 Honda Mobilio. Which claimed to be a drive by wire vehicle and I assume it really is (don't know how to tell if a car is drive by wire). I am a new driver and not sure which parts of a drive-by-wire really is &quot;by-wire&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all drive-by-wire cars completely (brakes, clutch, gas, steer) by wire? or does this vary between cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T05:57:44.903" Title="Are all drive-by-wire cars completely (brakes, clutch, gas, steer) by wire?" Tags="|electrical|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T05:35:48.753" Score="5" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to conserve energy and increase brake pad life in the following scenario - Say I need to stop 500 meters from where I am at. &#xA;Assume I am a very aware and an expert driver and that there is no other car behind me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am driving at a speed of 70 kmph, which one of these will be the most effective ways to brake an automatic 2013 Camry : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A) Slow and steady brake (which will include the slight engine brake that engages with constant decelaration) till the stop line. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B) One swift braking action bringing the speed down to 50 and letting the car roll and finally bring it to stop with one swift brake. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C) Applying (sudden and full?)brakes only when near the red light (and legally stopping behind the stop line). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there another way of braking that will do the least wear and tear on the car ? &#xA;Till date I have used A) but I am interested to know of better ways to brake even if it prolongs the life of the brakes even by 1%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T01:31:25.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:55:55.750" Title="How to apply brakes so there is minimal wear and tear?" Tags="|brakes|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25920" CreationDate="2016-02-11T05:37:31.557" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton%27s_laws_of_motion#Newton.27s_third_law&quot;&gt;Newtons Third Law&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. The statement means that in every interaction, there is a pair of forces acting on the two interacting objects. The size of the forces on the first object equals the size of the force on the second object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lateral center of gravity (CG) is above the axle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have two different forces acting upon the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Newtons Third Law&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://Inertia%20is%20the%20resistance%20of%20any%20physical%20object%20to%20any%20change%20in%20its%20state%20of%20motion%20(this%20includes%20changes%20to%20its%20speed,%20direction%20or%20state%20of%20rest).%20It%20is%20the%20tendency%20of%20objects%20to%20keep%20moving%20in%20a%20straight%20line%20at%20constant%20velocity.&quot;&gt;Inertia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the lateral CG is above the axle line for most vehicles inertia takes effect.  The chassis is trying to stay in the same place.  The rear wheels are driving the car forward.  There is more weight above the axle than below it.  Car wants to lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the torque on the rear wheels, Newtons Third Law law takes effect.  When you dump the clutch and accelerate the opposite must occur in an equal way.  Front end lifts and NTL proves itself, again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T05:37:31.557" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25937" CreationDate="2016-02-11T05:57:44.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the car is drive by wire it doesn't mean everything&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cars that are drive by wire where it's the accelerator only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake-by-wire&quot;&gt;Brake by Wire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's an electronic brake system the term EBS or electronic braking system may be thrown around.  As the article states EBS systems are typically found on commercial vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True brake by wire systems are in use in Formula 1 cars under the 2016 regulations.  Honda and Chevrolet have hybrid brake by wire systems where some of the braking is done by electromagnets.  If we are getting critical then we would consider those systems as more regenerative braking.  Currently there are no brakes actuated by electric motors with hydraulics removed from the system but they are in development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steer by Wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only steer by wire system that is not a hybrid is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2014/06/infiniti-q50-steer-by-wire/&quot;&gt;Infiniti Q50&lt;/a&gt;.  There is no mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shift by Wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common.  Think of paddle shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle by Wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very common.  Some motorcycles too.  Your foot depresses the pedal various sensors detect the desired amount of pedal and take into consideration wheel speed, RPM, etc to open a butterfly electronically in your throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the these systems go by the terminology of x-by-wire.  The X being the variable of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://jalopnik.com/how-electronic-throttle-control-works-499966101&quot;&gt;&quot;How Electronic Throttle Control Works&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T05:57:44.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25931" CreationDate="2016-02-11T08:27:01.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when changing the oil you won't be able to fully drain the old oil anyways and the old and new oils will mix, like it or not. Usually this is not a problem even if the weights are different, though it's safer to stick with the same brand, as some argue the components in the oil being incompatible may cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should be wary of is mixing synthetic oil with mineral oil, it i said that this causes problems more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T09:57:45.053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T09:57:45.053" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25936" CreationDate="2016-02-11T09:18:28.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive by wire systems have no mechanical connection between the input decive (like a throttle/gas pedal) and the output device (like the engine). They use only electrical signals. To my knowledge there aren't any cars that use this system for steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your steering wheel is mechanically connected to the front wheels but is assisted by an electric motor. The motor helps you turn the steering left or right and is known as EPAS, or electrical power assisted steering. With the key in the off position, the motor will not be powered and you will have no 'power assistance'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T09:18:28.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25946" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:02:17.597" Score="9" ViewCount="1896" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a separate forum, someone had asked why electric cars do not have transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple answer was that electric cars produce peak torque at any RPM but the gasoline engine needs to rev up to certain RPM to churn out similar power &amp;amp; torque figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain why is it so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:42:19.320" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T21:21:46.340" Title="Why do electric motors produce peak torque instantly vs gasoline engines" Tags="|engine|electrical|engine-theory|electric-vehicle|theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13318" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:08:07.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an alternator that drained the battery .It was fine for years but I had a small Holley       carb fire which was put out with the help of someones disposable fire extinglisher .It made a big mess .The alt leaked a rather unstable 100mA .I cleaned and stripped and cleaned and stripped and cleaned and got it down to 10mA .Put it back in my 1965 Stude which doesnt get used often and no problems for 4 years . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T10:08:07.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25944" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:13:50.010" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque in almost all electric machines is a function of current. For permanent magnet machines, torque is roughly proportional to current and for the series-wound machines, torque is roughly proportional to current squared. So if you can get the current in quickly which is easiest at standstill, you will burn rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="170" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T19:34:53.540" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T19:34:53.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T12:12:13.593" Score="6" ViewCount="14926" Body="&lt;p&gt;In OBD PID wiki page, there are 2 PIDs listed: Fuel pressure and Fuel rail pressure. Are both of them the same? Can someone please give an elaborate explanation of it - What exactly are they signifying? Are they proportional to the Intake manifold pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't get the value of the pressures from the PID (say in Hyundai i10), is there any way to calculate them? Do their values remain the same more or less, or it changes with engine load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;PIDs: 0A and 22 (mode 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="13258" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T07:12:59.527" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T15:20:24.157" Title="Difference between fuel pressure and fuel rail pressure" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-injection|pressure|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25950" CreationDate="2016-02-11T13:08:30.493" Score="0" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford Fiesta 1.4 diesel TDCI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a rattling noise. Checked and found that noise is due to damaged turbo turbine. So turbo replaced. But after replacement with new turbo and 10KMS road test, the noise returned. Checked and found the turbo turbine damaged from same side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T16:48:00.347" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:48:00.347" Title="Turbo shaft broken" Tags="|engine|ford|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-11T18:48:36.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24282" CreationDate="2016-02-11T14:18:15.213" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Race and high performance road car engines often have a higher number of cylinders in relation to overall capacity, compared to engines designed to optimize cost and reliability over ultimate performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons multiple cylinder engines produce more power for the same cubic capacity are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller bore x stroke = smaller pistons + smaller connecting rods + lighter crankshaft = less mass to accelerate on each stroke = quicker revving/higher max R.P.M. = more power = higher top speed + faster acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More cylinders = more valves = higher rate of fuel throughput = greater power output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides to multi-cylinder engines include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater complexity of manufacture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater expense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased difficulty of servicing and shorter intervals between services.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater complexity and difficulty of setting up and tuning engine to optimize performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced reliability and robustness. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays there are fairly stringent reliability regulations in Formula 1 and there are penalties for teams who have to replace too many engines in one season in order to control costs, but as a general principle the ideal racing car engine is one which disintegrates immediately after crossing the finish line!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's impossible to design an engine that precisely, but historically you'll find that racing engines are extremely strong when used within their intended design envelope (eg full rebuild every few dozen miles, scrapped after a few thousand miles) but tend to blow up spectacularly if they exceed the envelope by even a small amount. (eg if under serviced, over-revved etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is a combination of weight saving + trying to extract the absolute maximum power output and also a result of the compromise between those two goals and reliability. Racing car success can depend on the tiniest of margins. If your car is consistently 0.1 of a second faster than its nearest rival on a particular track, then that equates to a 5 second lead at the end of a 50 lap race. That is why racing car designers will attempt to use any possible means available to them in order to make their cars just that little tiny bit faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is also incredibly important on a racing car. You might think that saving 1 gramme of weight on one component wouldn't make any difference, but if you can save 1 gramme on each of a car's 1000 components, then you've saved a total of 1 Kilogram, which on a lightweight racing car, can make a measurable performance increase. On a racing car, a V16 engine, may well be more expensive, more complicated and less reliable than the same capacity V8, but all other things being equal, if it weighs 2% less and produces 2% more power and is still reliable enough to finish races, and the team have the budget to build and run it, then (regulations permitting) they're going to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is not the only component on a racing car, but it's one of the most important for determining the car's ultimate performance. In Formula 1, the added cost and complexity of multiple cylinder engines is far outweighed by their performance advantage over a same capacity straight 4 for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In modern Formula 1 there are many complex regulations, governing engine design, reliability, energy recovery, fuel consumption, overall weight of cars, etc etc. and the number of cylinders and layout allowed may sometimes be defined by regulation rather than performance, but in general, a well designed and built many-cylindered engine will out perform one of the same capacity, but with fewer cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14981" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T14:18:15.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25948" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:48:07.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common problem is that gunk builds up in the oil feed pipes to the turbo which restricts the flow of oil to the turbo bearings. This then causes rapid failure of the new turbo. Some manufactures require that you replace the oil feed pipes when fitting a new turbo for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T15:48:07.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25952" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:58:14.493" Score="4" ViewCount="3973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 nissan sentra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the manual. I looked into it but it doesn't seem to indicate the frequency of which I should change the oil. It does mention that the oil change light indicator should not be the indicator for changing oil. It does mention stop and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I hear, I should change my oil every 5,000 to 15,000 miles. My mechanic gives me the 3,000 mile sticker but I have read that this is not true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usage of my car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive an hour away and back a week.&#xA;Twice a week, I drive 20-30 minutes away and back.&#xA;Daily, I drive about 10-20 minutes and back (going to the gym, grocery store, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14984" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:24:08.993" Title="How often should I change my Nissan Sentra's (2012 model) oil?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25951" CreationDate="2016-02-11T16:24:08.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the recommendations from Nissan, your oil change interval for &quot;less severe&quot; conditions is 7500mi or 6 months.  That comes from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://owners.nissanusa.com/content/techpub/common/2012/2012-nissan-service-maintenance-guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012 Service and Maintenance Guide&lt;/a&gt; that lists all other recommended service as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these &quot;official&quot; guidelines assume that you use the same brand and type of oil that Nissan uses, so this can vary if you use a cheaper or better quality oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:24:08.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25920" CreationDate="2016-02-11T16:27:37.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason why the car lifts even if its stationery is because of the torque produced by the engine and the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is not connected to the wheels with one single shaft, there is the transmission in between which will have a very minute slack in the gearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you let go of the clutch the torque from the engine tries to push the car forward now to things happen here. Assuming the wheels are braked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the minute slack in the various parts of the transmission the engine gets a very small space to move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine tries to move the tyres but it cant since they are braked in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SO obviously the only other thing which can move are the suspension which have a little bit of flex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this combined lifts the car up basically due to the torque of the engine and the flexibility of the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:27:37.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25987" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:35:37.753" Score="5" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard these terms tossed around quite a bit and I understand that fuel injection is needed in order to inject fuel in to the engine (from a fuel rail/injectors?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the difference between multi-port and combined-port fuel injection?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other alternatives to these methods of fuel injection?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why can't people just upgrade fuel pumps and increase fuel line (pipe?) pressures to force fuel to flow in to the engine when the intake valves are open instead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T18:54:06.273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:02:12.007" Title="What is the difference between &quot;multi port&quot; and &quot;combined port&quot; fuel injection?" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|engine-theory|fuel-injection|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25925" CreationDate="2016-02-11T20:47:15.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of the video you posted, I believe that driver just cut the clutch as he made the spin, and used the momentum he already had to back into the space and brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14987" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:47:15.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T21:03:34.067" Score="6" ViewCount="14830" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1215353-6-0-ls-cylinder-numbers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2AzrOPPZFzs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resources&lt;/a&gt;, I was able generate a list of all theoretical firing orders for an LS engine with a cross-plane crankshaft. Here they are (&lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt;,&lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; denote which bank each cylinder in the firing order belongs to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-5-4-2-6-8-7-3 LLRRRRLL&#xA;1-5-4-3-6-8-7-2 LLRLRRLR&#xA;1-5-7-2-6-8-4-3 LLLRRRRL&#xA;1-5-7-3-6-8-4-2 LLLLRRRR&#xA;1-8-4-2-6-5-7-3 LRRRRLLL&#xA;1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 LRRLRLLR&#xA;1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 LRLRRLRL&#xA;1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2 LRLLRLRR&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard LS firing order is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which does a decent job of alternating firing between banks as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A popular modification that recently came to my attention is known as the &quot;4/7 swap&quot;, which switches the firing order of cylinders 4 and 7. What's interesting to note here is that it causes all 4 cylinders on one bank to fire in succession, followed by the other bank's 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have imagined that this firing order should be avoided because it places more load on the crankshaft and rod bearings when all of the cylinders on one bank are fired one after another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So is there any benefit to be reaped from performing this modification?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303857&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forums&lt;/a&gt; appear to indicate a minor improvement in power/torque output, but I fail to see how this would be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the cylinder numbering convention on an LS engine. All cylinders on Bank 1 (&lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt;) are odd, Bank 2 (&lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt;) are even:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15dJi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/15dJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LS Engine Cylinder Numbering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T06:16:46.550" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T13:03:28.480" Title="Is there any benefit in performing a 4/7 swap on an LS engine?" Tags="|firing-order|ls1|modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T21:15:30.053" Score="3" ViewCount="2121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble finding color coding for my Mercury Cougar. I found a diagram but it shows the stereo constant power wire is green and yellow, but there is no green and yellow in my Cougar stereo harness. It also has the cruise control wires tied in to the stereo harness, as well as the cruise constant power and switched power are backwards. Please help. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14988" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T22:07:51.733" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T17:14:05.633" Title="1990 Mercury Cougar LS stereo wire color diagram" Tags="|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T21:42:17.677" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda out of the blue would not go from park and so I had to use shift lock release and I have no power to my windows or dash what would cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14989" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T21:59:06.643" Title="stuck in park no power to dash or windows" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2016-02-11T21:59:06.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a very similar fault on a car.  The ignition switch is often designed to disconnect power to all the ancillaries while the ignition switch is in the start position.  If the ignition switch becomes faulty, it may be providing power to the engine running circuitry, but not the rest.  It may also account for the burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a smell near the ignition switch, it may indicate that the fault is with the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T21:59:06.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26791" CreationDate="2016-02-11T22:15:11.963" Score="7" ViewCount="19833" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is anyone familiar with the process of neo-chrome plating and how it works? It is a different finish than burnt titanium, but seems to involve a heating method in some way to give it the rainbow finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just heat that causes it, is it in every other way identical to traditional chroming? Or is it an entirely different coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5164ac2ce4b046996180602d/t/519726dbe4b0f314fe916aa0/1368860380146/Nebula_Gram_Lights3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;neochromewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14987" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.227" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:44:44.173" Title="What is Neo-Chrome?" Tags="|wheels|paint|aftermarket-upgrade|finish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25947" CreationDate="2016-02-11T22:57:53.227" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a car with fuel injection there can be two fuel pumps, one high-pressure and one low-pressure.  The low-pressure pump moves the gas from the tank up to the high pressure pump.  The high pressure pump then raises the pressure to a level that will be useful to the injectors.  The two PIDs reflect those two different systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PID  Description        Min       Max      Units &#xA;0A   Fuel pressure        0       765      kPa (gauge)&#xA;22   Fuel rail pressure   0     5,177.265  kPa  &#xA;23   Fuel rail pressure   0   655,350      kPa&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see that the range of values returned for each is scaled to be appropriate for the range of pressures to be measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I took those PID values from Wikipedia so trust, but verify.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;  I added an entry for PID 23 as mentioned in comments and adjusted the layout of the max pressure column to highlight the difference in the scales of the data.  In OBDII there is no way to specify the units of measure for a given PID, that is part of the reason there are two PIDs for fuel rail pressure. PID 22 is appropriate to the pressures for injection into the intake manifold, while PID 23 is better matched against the pressures in diesel or direct gas injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the other points in the question.  Only PID 22 specifies that it is measured relative to manifold pressure, I would not expect that the other two would thake manifold pressure into account since they are not really affected by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pressures are all controlled by regulators so that any of these PIDs should be fairly constant and not affected by load in a well running engine.  Low fuel pressure would be the result of failure or clog in the fuel system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="458" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T17:06:39.930" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T17:06:39.930" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25958" CreationDate="2016-02-11T23:50:43.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this for the base stereo system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRVdg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRVdg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:50:43.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25973" CreationDate="2016-02-11T23:54:57.683" Score="4" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car(2008 Volkswagen Jetta) makes high pitched noise like a cricket after I accelerate(to about 35 mph or 3rd gear) independent of braking. The noise continues even if I come to a full stop but the engine is still running. The weird part is it doesn't always make this noise, so I'm not sure if the mechanic will catch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the noise seems to change according to the heater fan level. The noise mostly goes away if I turn off the fan. However, given that it is 13F outside, I couldn't go too long without the fan being on, so I couldn't collect enough data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_cTBf1FLL8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_cTBf1FLL8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14939" LastEditorUserId="14939" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T14:40:24.047" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T14:40:24.047" Title="Car Making Noise After It speeds up" Tags="|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25933" CreationDate="2016-02-12T00:07:59.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By failing to fully disengage the clutch, you mashed the very fast spinning input shaft gears with the not as fast spinning second gear. While the synchro will have helped lessen the difference in speed, there's only so much it can do, and you probably damaged some of the teeth. Considering that the car still shifts and drives fine, I would go ahead and change your transmission fluid, and don't be surprised when you find some metal flakes in there. You should also make sure you have a magnetic drain bolt, which will help collect any metal shavings that break off when miss-shifts occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T00:07:59.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25954" CreationDate="2016-02-12T00:21:02.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In multi port fuel injection the injectors are located near the Intake valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In central port fuel injection there is a single injector with multiple valves that route to their respective cylinders. Think the 90's Chevy Blazer with the 4.3l Vortec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also throttle body fuel injection in which a single injector is located at the throttle plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to upgrading the fuel system while you can upgrade the pump you would also need to increase injector pulse width while watching injector duty cycle. Typically when you upgrade a pump you also replace injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T00:21:02.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25968" CreationDate="2016-02-12T02:32:14.623" Score="12" ViewCount="4022" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the Cigarette lighters in the older cars(like my 1986 ford ranger) have the same functionality as modern cars? For example: Should I be able to use a cigarette-lighter adapted phone charger in my car, or is something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14958" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:24:03.730" Title="Are older cars' cigarette lighters the same as modern" Tags="|ford|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25967" CreationDate="2016-02-12T03:04:29.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cigarette lighters have been standardized for many years now. Even power outlet plugs are pretty much the same in size and shape, though their power throughput may be lower than an actual cigarette lighter outlet. If you are having issues, first thing to do is try a different adapter. If that still fails, check the fuse. If it's beyond that, you'll need to start tracing wires to see where the power interruption lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T15:24:03.730" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:24:03.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25979" CreationDate="2016-02-12T04:47:17.780" Score="14" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a manual transmission 1.5 litre Honda Mobilio. It is claimed to be a drive by wire vehicle and I assume it really is, but I don't know how to tell if a car is drive by wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a new driver and not sure which parts of a drive-by-wire really is &quot;by-wire&quot;. I am aware (from my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/25937/675&quot;&gt;previous questions&lt;/a&gt; here) that when specs say &quot;Drive-by-wire&quot; it does not necessarily mean all (brakes, steering, gas,clutch). My question is, how to identify which ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information like this would be helpful when you decide to resell your brand new car. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:46:54.153" Title="How can I tell which parts of my car are &quot;By Wire&quot;?" Tags="|electrical|honda|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T08:21:50.063" Score="2" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of my hoses in the front are very hard I took out the thermostat and the hoses are still hard and my car is still over heating what can it be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14994" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T15:18:28.703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:18:28.703" Title="2001 honda civic dx over heating problem" Tags="|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2017-07-19T21:48:11.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25996" CreationDate="2016-02-12T10:19:32.413" Score="25" ViewCount="99482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that boxer engines are those which have pistons moving in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the fact that since they sit low, the center of gravity is lower which causes better handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why don't mainstream manufacturers use the Boxer configuration (sans Subaru and the BR-Z cars; also not including the VW Beetle and the Tata Nano)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the disadvantages?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T18:49:32.947" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T21:44:58.613" Title="What are the Advantages &amp; Disadvantages of a Boxer engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25964" CreationDate="2016-02-12T10:28:17.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really hard to hear the noise in the video. The observation that it changes with fan speed is a strong indication that it has something to do with the blower fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not uncommon for broken fan blades to cause rotary imbalance, resulting in the fan sounding very noisy when in operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this explanation would not explain any noises you might be hearing while the fan is off. If this is the case, you need to describe the circumstances in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T10:28:17.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25975" CreationDate="2016-02-12T10:34:42.027" Score="4" ViewCount="9958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Peugeot 107 with 14 inch rims. My tires are bald and require replacing ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who has a Ford Ka with 13&quot; rims. They purchased five new tired (including the spare) less than three months ago and said that It may be possible to swap out my 14&quot; wheels and bald tires for their 13&quot; wheels and new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible, and what are the implications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14996" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:17:25.083" Title="Can I replace my R14 wheels/tyres with R13 wheels/tyres?" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25974" CreationDate="2016-02-12T10:48:50.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the diameter of the wheel and tyre is different, it will cause your speedometer to show an incorrect reading. Smaller wheels will show a higher speed on your speedometer than your are actually doing. It is riskier to put on larger wheels though as you may be on the speed limit at 30 but your actual speed could be 35.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good site calculate your speedo difference when changing tyres:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/speedo-error-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/speedo-error-calculator&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase speedo correctors to adjust the reading your speedometer shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to check that the rims will actually fit. The difference you can find between rims are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bolt Pattern - This defines whether or not your wheel hub will line up with the holes on the rims.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh7Ul.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh7Ul.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bolt size - This defines whether the bolts that fit the rim are the correct size for your hub. This generally goes hand in hand with the bolt pattern. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvb75.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvb75.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Offset of the rim - This can play a part in whether or not your rims will fit over the brakes so that there is enough clearance. A rim with negative offset (usually refereed to as deep dish) will have far less leeway for your brakes. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XVQP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XVQP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14924" LastEditorUserId="14924" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T20:17:25.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:17:25.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25972" CreationDate="2016-02-12T11:15:28.407" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boxer engines are large and complex that is their greatest fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engines have a larger widths when compared to an inline 4 or a V6. If you have ever replaced spark plugs on a Subaru those engines are shoehorned in very tight. Not all manufacturers want to work around that kind of width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engines are also more complex. The cylinder block is split into two halves. This requires the manufacture of two complex items instead of just one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the needed orientation of the engine provides extra problems.  These engines are oriented in a traditional manner. Because the transmission sticks out the back the power flow has to turn 180 degrees to go to the front wheels. Since most vehicles are front wheel drive this makes the transmission more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of a boxer engine is that the engine counter balances itself. The pistons that are across from each other move toward the crank and away from the crank at the same time. This gives smoother operation and a crank shaft that is lighter because no counter balance weights are required. It also reduces vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage is that because the engine is wide and short it lowers the vehicles center of gravity. This reduces body roll and improves handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a complex transmission in concerned, Subaru uses it's complexity to its advantage by the addition of AWD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T13:14:53.230" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:14:53.230" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25974" CreationDate="2016-02-12T12:05:48.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you have to ensure that the tire physically fits to your car. Beneath the diameter of the rim, there are these characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of bolts and diameter of hole circle. The hole circle is the (virtual) circle on which the holes for the bolts are located. This is usually given in the form 4x100 meaning &quot;4 bolts, 100mm diameter&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of the hub / center hole of the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim offset - The offset of the contact surface between car an rim from the center of the wheel (to the outside is positive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                     Peugeot 107  Ka(-2008)  Ka (2009-)&#xA;bolts x center hole   4x100        4x108       4x98&#xA;center hole            54.1         63.4       58.1&#xA;offset                   39           36         35&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these values are correct, rims are &lt;strong&gt;interchangeable between none of these cars&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is more: The lower limit of rim size is defined e.g. by the brakes. If they are too large, they may not fit inside a 13&quot; rim. I haven't found any 13&quot; rims for the peugeot 107 (but didn't search very much), so may be, they don't fit due to this constraint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a rim fits to your car, have a look at the wheel dimension and ensure it has enough clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a different circumference leads do a different speed reading. Make sure your car isn't faster than it displays, and not too much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T12:05:48.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T12:55:16.867" Score="5" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Mercury Grand Marquis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts to make a noise the faster that I go the more high-pitched the noise gets when you slow down the noise gets more low-pitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's coming from the rear of the car it almost sounds like it is not shifting gears but it is shifting could it be as simple as greasing the rear end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14998" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T14:27:37.313" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T14:27:37.313" Title="What is making this noise coming from the rear end of my car?" Tags="|mercury|rear-differential|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25969" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:27:21.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: this answer only addresses drive-by-wire; I don't know if you could tell whether the other systems employ by-wire technologies as readily.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drive-By-Wire : Look at your throttle body&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If it has a throttle plate actuated by cable, you have drive-by-cable, not drive-by-wire&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drive-by-cable examples:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4huZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4huZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda S2000&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uSYS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uSYS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LS1 Throttle Body&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drive-by-wire examples:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Notice the absence of a spring-loaded cable-actuator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w43Jt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w43Jt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Suzuki Swift Supercharged DBW&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpNJi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpNJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW Electronic Throttle Body&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T15:08:01.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:08:01.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25978" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:31:23.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check for evidence of gear oil leakage from the rear differential of the vehicle. It sounds like you are low, causing the noise. If it is low, and you have been driving it for a while like this, you may have caused damage to the ring/pinion gears, or possibly the bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious places to find leakage is at the pinion seal, which where the driveshaft is attached to the yoke of the differential. Look on the body of the vehicle for a dark discoloration. Gear oil will rand to get flung in an ark up into the body (and all around for that matter) leaving a gear oil stain. You can also check the bottom of the flange for wetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't show anything, check the bottom of the differential housing where the rear cover is attached. You may see a drip formed there. Carefully run your fingers there to check for wetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still aren't seeing any leakage, there will be a plug in the rear cover which should be a little less than half-way up the cover. Take the plug out and verify the level of gear oil on level ground. You should be able to feel the gear oil if you stick your finger in to the first knuckle (about 1/2 inch or a little more than a cm from the whole). If it is low (you don't feel you finger sticking into the gear oil), you'll need to add some gear oil. Get some 75W-90 gear oil (80w-90 will work as well, but you might not find it). It is tough to fill the diff, especially in cold weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the diff is low, you need to find the leak. If it isn't low, you have a major problem with your differential, as it should be quiet. The noise is either made from a a lack of gear oil, something is misaligned due to wear, or both (lack of gear oil causing wear). If getting your rear differential back to a proper oil level doesn't solve the noise, you need to start looking at repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:31:23.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25914" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:42:57.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Above the pedal should be a button, with 2 wires coming out of it.  When your pedal is up, the button will be pressed all the way down, as you press the pedal, be button will release.  At some point this button turns on your tail lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the one on my truck is adjustable (because I've had to adjust it).  In this case, you remove the wires from the back and spin it to the proper location.  You will want the sensor further from the pedal to have the lights come on earlier.  Use a mirror or have a friend watch to ensure you have the proper adjustment and they do not stay on when you are not touching the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case the switch is not adjustable, you have 3 options.  Replace the switch with a new one to see if it is any better.  Modify the switch.  This can be done in 2 ways - shave down the top of the button head so the plunger is further out, or open it up and clean/move/change the contacts.  The third option is to modify the pedal or mounting.  You may be able to bend the tab that hit the button's plunger, or the bracket the switch sits in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:42:57.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25914" CreationDate="2016-02-12T14:14:11.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It definitely sounds like your brake light switch isn't activating when it should.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the list of options presented by rpmerf in his answer. It's definitely something you can tackle if you have a couple of hours to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a hands-on approach to figure out what's going on:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Push the driver's seat back as far as it will go and put something like a tablecloth or newspaper in the footwell, since you will probably need to rest your head against it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the key in the ignition to the 'On' state, so the car's electricals power up. There is no need to start the car for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the brake lights might be receiving power regardless of whether the car is on or off, so this step may not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a torch (a head-mounted lamp works great here) to see the business end of the brake pedal. You should see the brake pedal switch as something that interacts with the brake pedal lever, which should look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKjWK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKjWK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake pedal switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pop-button at the end is what controls whether the brake light switch is open or closed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the brake light switch is located, you should be able to ascertain what is wrong with the switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it misaligned?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, the way the switch is mounted may provide the ability to perform some adjustment by either lowering or raising the switch position. You may have to loosen a bolt or two to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is something sticking?&lt;/strong&gt; Maybe the spring inside the switch is to blame. Maybe there is some crud that affects the switch's ability to pop out. Repair/replace as applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T14:14:11.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25468" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:29:33.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this noise occurs only when the vehicle is in Park, you're probably hearing the park lock getting disengaged. This isn't something to be worried about; perfectly normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:29:33.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25703" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:39:10.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the tests performed, the most probable cause is lack of spark to the Bank 1 cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be worried about the lambda sensors or a jumped timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for an open in a wire that is common to the driver side coils, power-side or ground-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T15:39:10.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17999" CreationDate="2016-02-12T16:43:40.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out to be a result of disconnecting the battery from the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, the ECU forgets what it has self learned about when to switch gears, how much to open the throttle valve, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After few days driving, when the ECU re-learned, the problem went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to disconnect the battery again recently, and the problem occurred again. Again after few days driving, it got back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="11037" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T01:18:17.260" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:18:17.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25954" CreationDate="2016-02-12T16:58:36.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Why can't people just upgrade fuel pumps and increase fuel line (pipe?) pressures to force fuel to flow in to the engine when the intake valves are open instead?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the job of the fuel injector/ECU.  It is timed specifically so the proper amount of fuel is injected at the correct time.  The ECU is tuned for a specific fuel pressure and can typically compensate if it changes slightly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking in terms of modifying for more power...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The ECU and typically compensate for small changes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For larger changes, you will want to retune your ECU.  You will not need the same fuel increase throughout the RPM range, and will need to tune increases based on RPM.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typically, you only need to raise the fuel pressure if you are raising the pressure in the intake by way of turbocharger or supercharger, otherwise, you get injectors that flow more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Are there any other alternatives to these methods of fuel injection?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor, Mechanical fuel injection (seen in the 50s and 60s), Throttle body injection, multi port fuel injection, direct injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carburetor is mechanical and injects fuel based on air flowing through, plus precise tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure on mechanical fuel injection, heard of it,  but never looked into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle body injection uses a single fuel injector to inject fuel right before the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multi port injection is the most common since the early/mid 90s.  Each cylinder gets its own fuel injector mounted in the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct injection is not very common on gasoline engines, but is growing in popularity.  Gasoline is injected directly into the cylinder.  Haven't looked much into this either.  I believe it is both the most efficient and the most complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T18:02:12.007" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:02:12.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25958" CreationDate="2016-02-12T17:14:05.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When wiring a stereo, there are typically 3 pieces.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 - the vehicle's wiring harness with a connecter.&#xA;2 - a 'pigtail' that connects to your vehicle's harness and has open wires with standard colors.  You can find these at most auto parts stores or online.&#xA;3 - the radio's wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When wiring up a new radio, you connect the radio's harness to the pigtail (by soldering or using crimp connectors), then plug it in to your vehicle's wiring harness.  This way, your vehicles wiring will not be modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T17:14:05.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:00:56.350" Score="5" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Saab 95 wagon...  For about 6 months at random about once a month my car has been dead. After calling AAA and they told me there is a draw from the battery at apx 3.24 which is should be much lower. 3 weeks ago I took it to the mechanic he kept it for 6 days and played the guess and check game with the wiring and fuses... Eventually he ended up swapping out my battery for a new one... I had AAA come back and re test and the car is still reading 3.24. Any suggestions on what this could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~~I know it is not the alternator or the actual battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next guess is to just unplug the alarm (which I don't use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helppp!!! I love my car and don't want to get rid of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15004" LastActivityDate="2024-04-03T19:05:35.827" Title="Battery Draw while car is off at 3.24" Tags="|electrical|battery|saab|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T19:17:03.397" Score="2" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car heater is blowing only cold air in my Hyundai i20.&#xA;I have run the car over a long distance but the air is still cold.&#xA;Any suggestions please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15006" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:27:25.097" Title="Hyundia i20 heater failure" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25991" CreationDate="2016-02-12T20:27:25.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is typically the result of one of 3 things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low coolant - coolant is low, so it is not circulating through the heater core&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad heater core switch/valve - There is a valve that controls how much coolant flows through the heater core.  You might be able to watch this as someone adjusts the temperature setting in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clogged heater core - The heater core is clogged and not allowing coolant to pass through.  This will require the heater core to be flushed, and possibly cleaned.  Some people will pour in chemicals (like CLR) and let them sit in the heater core for an hour to eat away at any corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:27:25.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25703" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:01:10.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to visually verify no spark on bank 1. If a cylinder is already misfiring disconnecting the coil won't tell you much. Pull out the #1 coil and spark plug, put the spark plug into the coil and ground the electrode with a wire lead. This should tell you if you have spark or not. This is also a good time to do a compression test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no spark on coils 1, 3, 5 and 7 you need to test for power on the dark green/orange stripe wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coils 1, 3 and 5 as well as the corresponding injectors share a splice in the harness. You'd need to cut the tape and visually inspect for broken or corroded wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you heard a noise before this started  as well as the presence of the rich code. I'd be worried about a mechanical issue. Rocker arms on dodge engines are known for coming loose. You may want to attach a vacuum gauge with the car running. It may also be worth while to remove the valve cover from bank 1 if you suspect a rocker arm has come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know someone that has a digital storage oscilloscope you can do a cam crank correlation to verify engine timing without having to disassemble the front of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T21:01:10.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21139" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:23:57.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure as to what you mean by booster valve. Do you mean the charge air bypass valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1110 Charge Air Bypass Valve (CABV) performance fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the diaphragm in the bypass valve is bad.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The vacuum supply line to the bypass valve is bad.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or the bypass valve solenoid/wiring has a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T21:23:57.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25997" CreationDate="2016-02-12T21:46:45.410" Score="9" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my engine ('99, 360 v8 Magnum), I replaced the spark plugs less than 15k miles ago, because of misfires in cylinders 2 and 8. Those two plugs were badly corroded. Today I had to replace them again, and the same 2 were far more corroded than the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I have found evidence of a head gasket leak (burned coolant smell in exhaust and loss of coolant), I was thinking perhaps the coolant was getting into those 2 cylinders and causing faster corrosion. Is that likely? If not, what's causing the rapid deterioration? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylinder 8's plug:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CoRx0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CoRx0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylinder 2's plug:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpgmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpgmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the plugs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffSpW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffSpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T18:57:26.123" Title="Why are the spark plugs from the same 2 cylinders corroding faster than the others?" Tags="|dodge|sparkplugs|truck|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25972" CreationDate="2016-02-12T23:25:19.800" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like V configuration piston engines , &lt;em&gt;boxer&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;flat&lt;/em&gt; configuration engines can be made approximately half the length of a straight configuration engines. Compared to V engines boxers are not as tall, offering the ability to position mass lower in the vehicle's chassis, but are wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All boxer engines feature low primary vibration as pairs of pistons are opposed and move in a way to cancel out each other's momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Vs boxers are more complex that straight engines, having 2 cylinder heads with associated head gaskets, exhaust manifolds etc., and double the number of camshafts, more complex camshaft chains or belts and more complex cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to Vs, boxer engines have a more complex crankshaft as they have a crank throw for each connecting rod. True V's have pairs of rods sharing each crank throw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probable reason boxer or flat configurations are not used very often in modern cars is because a straight or V engines are almost always a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cars are now front wheel drive which work best with a compact, transversely mounted engine. A straight-4 or a V6 are much more suitable that a flat-4 or flat-6 in this configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longitudinal mounted engines are preferred for front-engine, rear wheel drive, the boxer engine's lower mass probably does not provide enough advantage over the simpler straight-4 or V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where boxer's really do seem to work is in air-cooled rear-engined  cars (e.g., the VW Type-1 and Porsche 911) where width is less of a concern, the engine must be a short as possible to avoid a large mass behind the rear axle, and the banks of cylinders are easier to cool as they are more widely spaced from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the modern Subaru layout, which originally featured 4-cylinder engines and all wheel drive, a longitudinal mounted boxer makes sense. To accommodate front wheel drive-shafts the engine must be placed in front of the front axle line, and the short, low boxer engine has advantages. (Compare this with the original all wheel drive Audi 80 Quatro that had a straight-5 hanging way-out ahead of the front axle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point flat-12 engines were used in racing cars such as the Porsche 917, and many Ferrari F-1 cars (although these were technically 180° V-12s, which may have any cylinder bank angle). Flat-12's proved incompatible with ground-effects as the cylinder heads occupied the space where the venturi tunnels needed to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T23:25:19.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25995" CreationDate="2016-02-13T00:14:45.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you see could very well be burned coolant as well as oil.  As the glycerin burns in the combustion process it can take on corrosive properties that degrade the electrodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically with oil in the combustion chamber you don't see as sever of a an electrode degradation as illustrated in your photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your head gasket change is looming and should probably get done sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO this is a combination of both coolant and oil in your combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T00:14:45.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21139" CreationDate="2016-02-13T00:26:19.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually a fault in the connecting control hoses, the solenoid valve or the bypass valve. The bypass valve is a common failure on these vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T00:26:19.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26018" CreationDate="2016-02-13T01:48:02.873" Score="8" ViewCount="6845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some deep scratches on my fender that I filled in with Bondo glazing putty. Feels pretty smooth. I'm planning to spray on a filler primer and sand it down this weekend before spraying the urethane paint I bought to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint supplier said I should apply a sealer after the primer. Is this a necessary step and what exactly is sealer and is there a recommended type for this job? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15013" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T18:01:02.673" Title="What kind of sealer should go over bondo and primer?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|bondo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2016-02-13T02:00:06.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you were thinking of 2-stroke &lt;em&gt;gasoline&lt;/em&gt; engines when asking the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evinrude built a 3.6 liter gasoline 2-stroke for outboard boat motors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/videos/a7300/video-insane-evinrude-johnson-two-stroke-v8-startup/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/videos/a7300/video-insane-evinrude-johnson-two-stroke-v8-startup/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly the exhausts are in the V in this design, which is necessary as the carburetors need to inlet into the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-stroke &lt;em&gt;supercharged diesels&lt;/em&gt; are really a completely different type of engine with different methods of lubrication and scavenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to ram the point home that 2-stroke diesels can really be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; large, try over 1000 liters displacement: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W%C3%A4rtsil%C3%A4-Sulzer_RTA96-C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W%C3%A4rtsil%C3%A4-Sulzer_RTA96-C&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15010" LastEditorUserId="15010" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T17:27:51.147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:27:51.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22526" CreationDate="2016-02-13T04:53:03.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since multiple parts were already replaced I'd be looking at the signal from the crank sensor to the PCM (brown/light blue). As well as signal from PCM to coil 3 (brown/orange) 5v square wave. IIRC coil 3 is the 3/6 pack, this should be a 12v square wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget about the fuel system either. You should test fuel pressure and injector signal/injector function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure the engine is mechanically sound, do a compression test, check engine vacuum etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T04:53:03.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25580" CreationDate="2016-02-13T05:23:21.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check belt tension and visually inspect the pulleys for rubber deposits. You can check pulleys by applying a load to the pulley and spinning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need to include which transfer case you have on the vehicle by looking at the stamped plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much vacuum is &quot;little vacuum&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a NVG231 there should be engine vacuum (roughly 20inHG) at the shift motor. If there isn't you need to check the lines to the vacuum switch and vacuum before/after the switch. Though the way the system is described lack of vacuum to the shift motor would be defaulting to 4WD. When 2WD is selected the valve opens and the motor unlocks the right front axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention lights do you mean a dash light to indicate 4WD or an electronic switch with 2WD, 4 Hi and 4 Lo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an electronic switch you may have the NVG243. In which case you should check fuses first. If fuses are OK you're going to need a scan tool capable of bi directional controls to test the transfer case and front axle locking motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T05:23:21.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25812" CreationDate="2016-02-13T08:13:09.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;That &lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p1800_nissan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P1800&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; may be key&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is an elaboration of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25812/05-nissan-maxima-sl-3-5-p1283#comment40731_25812&quot;&gt;my comment&lt;/a&gt; on how &lt;kbd&gt;P1800&lt;/kbd&gt; can explain your observations.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Code Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1800 Nissan - Variable Intake Air System Control Solenoid Valve Circuit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the engine is running at low or medium speed, the power valve is&#xA;  fully closed. Under this condition, the effective suction port length&#xA;  is equivalent to the total length of the intake manifold collector's&#xA;  suction port including the intake valve. This long suction port&#xA;  provides increased air intake which results in improved suction&#xA;  efficiency and higher torque generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The surge tank and one-way valve are provided. When engine is running&#xA;  at high speed, the Engine Control Module (ECM) sends the signal to the&#xA;  Variable Intake Air System (VIAS) control solenoid valve. This signal&#xA;  introduces the intake manifold vacuum into the power valve actuator&#xA;  and therefore opens the power valve to two suction passages together&#xA;  in the collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under this condition, the effective port length is equivalent to the&#xA;  length of the suction port provided independently for each cylinder.&#xA;  This shortened port length results in enhanced engine output with&#xA;  reduced suction resistance under high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My Interpretation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car has a dual air-intake setup, and the &quot;power valve&quot; is a vacuum-operated means to select which intake tract the air flows through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2WkC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2WkC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Variable Length Intake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the description above, the shorter runner is intended for high RPM conditions, the longer one for low/medium RPM conditions. There is no &quot;in-between&quot; condition where air is being fed in from both runners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lean AFR could be the result of a mismatch between what intake runner the engine management is expecting and what is actually being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also explain why a smoke test returned negative for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T08:13:09.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-13T08:37:03.810" Score="3" ViewCount="19870" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the exact location of the heater blower fan motor resistor on the Ford Fiesta Mk6 (JH1/HHJB1) ? A picture will help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6386" LastEditorUserId="6386" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T08:43:43.790" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T07:08:43.633" Title="Ford Fiesta Mk6 heater blower fan motor resistor location?" Tags="|ford|fiesta|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-13T09:03:53.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Control module voltage is one of the OBD PID. It signifies the car battery voltage. Is there any way to calculate how much current is drawn in a drive (say 7 km from my office to home). The voltage will keep on decreasing, increasing in this drive, but I am interested to calculate how my current (or rate of current) is being drawn during discharging of the car battery. The calculation would involve using OBD PIDs (most preferably the generic Mode 01 PIDs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T00:22:08.010" Title="Calculate current drain from the battery in a drive" Tags="|battery|obd-ii|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26006" CreationDate="2016-02-13T11:13:39.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The notion that battery voltage will reduce while driving is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All modern production vehicles will boast alternator acting as a electrical generator to maintain battery voltage. The battery cannot sustain sufficient charge for even an hour in the absence of a charging issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, control module voltage will remain steady during normal operation and cannot be used to perform any kind of electrical energy consumption calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T11:13:39.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26005" CreationDate="2016-02-13T12:35:34.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully not a bad assumption, but I'm assuming you're vehicle is right hand drive (European). That said, to get to your resistor pack, there is a kick panel which has to be removed which is against the center console in the passenger footwell. The panel should be fairly easy to remove.once removed, locate the blower housing, which is towards the front of the car. It will have a cross hatch looking design on it and is made of dark grey plastic. Reaching your hand around between the blower housing and the firewall, you'll find a plug which has several wires attached to it. The connector should be light grey in color and is fairly square in nature. Attached to that is your resistor pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/5IV_5ipXqHI&quot;&gt;Here is a video of a guy replacing the resistor pack&lt;/a&gt;, so should give you exact location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T12:35:34.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2016-02-13T13:47:09.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of you are misinformed regarding Top Tier.  Top Tier requires that every single location in a company's retail brand portfolio contains additives in sufficient quantities and of a certain chemical makeup to be considered TOP TIER.  This is accomplished usually by an additive injection system at the terminal level that mixes in the requisite amount of additive as the fuel is loaded into the truck.  This works fine for branded sites where the fuel must come from a specific seller - usually a refiner.  However, unbranded sites purchase from several different sources based on price at the wholesale level and not all of those sources are willing to pay for injection systems to bring the base fuel up to TOP TIER standards.  Fuel additives that are used in the Additech system are manufactured by Afton Chemical and can, in the correct dosage, far exceed even TOP TIER standards.  There are also other benefits to the product in terms of lubricity and octane boosters that MIGHT be beneficial to your car or truck.  The fuel system cleaner additive at the highest dosage rate will clean your injectors if they are dirty.  I use it and recommend it at every oil change.  Independent studies, which are cited on Afton Chemical's website, show that deposits are reduced, on average, 69% across a multitude of vehicle types and ages.  It works.  Do you need it?  Maybe, Maybe not.  It depends on the condition of your vehicle.  The real comparison is spending $20 on the fuel injector cleaning or taking it to the garage and spending much more.  It might be worth a try first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15015" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T13:47:09.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26015" CreationDate="2016-02-13T14:21:25.323" Score="7" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars, now have nonlinear speedometers. How can they achieve to get different spacing between some speed ranges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For better understanding, see the image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdyTj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdyTj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of an old Audi A4 speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range from 70 to 100 is not linear, because there are equally spaced marks, as you can see in the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mark        Increment from previous&#xA;  70               5 (was 65, not shown on this table)&#xA;  75               5 &#xA;  80               5 &#xA;  90              10&#xA; 100              10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" LastEditorUserId="9367" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T00:38:05.160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T00:38:05.160" Title="How do nonlinear speedometers work?" Tags="|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25957" CreationDate="2016-02-13T15:48:56.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This modification is intended for Gen I/II Small-Block Chevy engines only.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I failed to realize was that while the cylinder numbering convention stays the same across Gen I/II SBC's, the firing order is quite different: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this firing order, there is no concern about bank imbalance when performing the 4/7 swap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 | 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2&#xA;----------------+----------------&#xA;L-R-R-L-R-L-L-R | L-R-L-L-R-L-R-R&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5Tr8.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5Tr8.gif&quot; alt=&quot;SBC Numbering Convention&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T15:48:56.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27425" CreationDate="2016-02-13T15:53:07.303" Score="2" ViewCount="1480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an USB Adapter which emulates a CD Charger. The port wasn't used yet. When I plugged my battery the Radio worked, but I couldn't find the CD charger /USB in my radio source menu. Do I have to code the Radio? If yes which tool and codes do I need? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13372" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:44:34.490" Title="BMW E90: Professional Radio (Alpine CD73) USB Adapter won't work" Tags="|bmw|obd-ii|code|e90|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26010" CreationDate="2016-02-13T16:41:27.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speedo will be a standard linear voltmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle speed sensors are usually attached to either the gearbox output or the differential and produce a pulsed output at a frequency proportional to the vehicle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 'normal' speedo, the ECU will read the pulses from the speed sensor and produce a linear voltage proportional to the vehicle speed to send to the speedo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this non-linear speedo, the ECU simply creates a non-linear voltage range that fits with the graduations on the speedo.  This is a very simple task to perform in software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:41:27.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22424" CreationDate="2016-02-13T16:47:19.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a car where the battery dies after leaving it, try plugging a solar charger on the dashboard into the cigarette lighter. This has kept me out of trouble for quite a while. Note that the cigarette lighter must be the type that is still connected when the ignition is off. Nick B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15021" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T16:47:19.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19364" CreationDate="2016-02-13T17:00:08.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that 2 hours on charge will not charge the battery sufficiently. Leave it on for 24 hours at least. A 100AH battery will take 10 hours at 10 amps, 20 hours at 5 amps, and my smart charger goes at only 2 amps (initially at least) when the battery is flat, so 50 hours if at 2 amps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15021" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T17:00:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2016-02-13T18:01:02.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional painters prefer to use primers, sealers, color coats and clearcoats all from the same manufacturer and paint family. This ensures compatibility and long paint life. The second layer after the primer is usually an epoxy sealer. This is the layer that is the last defense against corrosion and it is very effective in this roll.&#xA;Since you already have the Rustoleum primer why not use their primer sealer product. If this is a small area the more expensive epoxy type sealer is not likely to provide a high benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T18:01:02.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25995" CreationDate="2016-02-13T18:57:26.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am sure the engine gasket, pistons rings or cylinders are the problem. if you have high mileage are the rings or cylinders,if you run the car without coolant or is running hot is the gasket.&#xA;the worst case scenario is a crack in the engine block&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15022" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T18:57:26.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T02:45:13.127" Score="4" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grand am is over heating while idling, blowing cold air out from heater and bubbling in coolant resevoir. Replaced thermostat and water pump and bled the valves to get air out and still same thing. Any suggestions on what this may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15025" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T12:26:03.357" Title="1995 Pontiac Grand Am Over-Heating and Cold air from heater, why?" Tags="|coolant|pontiac|water-pump|thermostat|grand-am|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T05:14:01.553" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum horsepower figures of most car engines have been high for many decades.How long would an engine last on the dyno when making max HP ?  How would this expected life drop when aftermarket performance mods are added? Would large old V8 motors like stock chev 350 be better in this respect? When I would see Vintage petrol engines used in generator sets     the max cont      KW output of the generater was more than half of the BHP of the engine . These old gensets were setup to make 50Hz running at a governed 3000rpm.The old engines that I have seen ,are Flathead ford V8.Coventry climax in line 4,Austin 36HP OHV inline 4.Would modern car engines have to be derated for such service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="14881" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T10:10:57.453" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T10:10:57.453" Title="How durable are engines at maximum power" Tags="|horsepower|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-15T06:32:36.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T05:25:46.623" Score="9" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compression is good and does not burn excessive oil .Fuel consumption has dropped from 8 kilometers per liter to 5.7 kilometers per liter.Same driving cycle same location. What should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15026" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T15:50:27.247" Title="Lada Niva 1700 Carburetor Model" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T05:33:29.687" Score="7" ViewCount="2601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and OBD II code still shows codes P0053, 54, 59, and 60. What could be causing this and how do I fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O2 sensors have 2 white and 2 black wires. Exactly which red/yellow wire are you referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15027" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T19:38:44.950" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T05:36:16.907" Title="2005 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor showing codes P0053, P0054, P0059 and P0060" Tags="|ford|o2-sensor|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T07:56:22.830" Score="4" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Golf 3 GSX 1995 carburetor. Yesterday it just died after a few attempts cranking the engine. I noticed the ignition lights were not lighting up. I then checked all fuses: all OK as well as the No18 as indicated as engine but not sure of relays. I checked for spark with a spare spark plug I carry, dead. As I do not have the money to take it in, please advise how to eliminate the problem as I can't go replacing all different parts and have to do it myself I have a multimeter, but advice clearly if I would have to use where to set the tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15030" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T13:16:44.433" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:30:27.303" Title="No ignition lights and spark" Tags="|starting|vw|golf|spark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T08:53:00.653" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 Mercury Mountaineer shut off during mid crank. It acted as if it wanted to crank then it shut off. Everything shut down. Outside and inside lights shut off. When I tried to crank it, it didn't say or do anything. So I tried jumping it off and it charged a little bit but not enough for it to crank. It made a ticking sound while I was turning the switch but that's all it did. I waited a little while to see if it would charge but it never charged enough to crank. What could be my problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15031" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T13:33:43.883" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:35:24.390" Title="What would cause my truck to shut off during me cranking it?" Tags="|battery|starting|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T10:24:05.253" Score="5" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 1985 suzuki lt185, the guy said it needs new recoil starter, and I bought a 86 recoil starter (all the other recoil starters I came across said fit 1984-1987 I went to go put it on but the recoil starter hits the cap starter (as in block it from being fully put on.) This is the cap starter I have on my atv at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvXu1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvXu1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recoil starter I bought is this one (not the exact same one)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aFsb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aFsb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ok The problem I am having is where the knot of the string pops out and the plastic around it, that interferes with the cap starter. Now, I am not sure if the recoil starter is compatible or if the cap starter is..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I was thinking of doing is cutting the cap starter to look like pic below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9WpH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9WpH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, would that work or would I have to order new parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13964" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T18:22:37.907" Title="1985 Suzuki lt185 cap starter problem" Tags="|suzuki|atv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26023" CreationDate="2016-02-14T12:21:18.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check fuse 21 in the under hood fuse box. If the fuse is OK at one of the o2 sensors check for power on the red/yellow wire. If you have no power at the o2 sensor I'm afraid your going to be looking for a short to ground. Which would involve tracing the wiring harness and visually inspecting for rub through or broken wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T12:21:18.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26020" CreationDate="2016-02-14T12:26:03.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bubbling in the coolant reservoir indicates a bad head gasket, while it may not explain the no heat it's time to trade your car in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the coolant is full and the engine is up to temp, check your heater hoses if one is cold and the other hot than the heater core is plugged. If both are the same temp than you'll have to look under dash and make sure that the temp blend door functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T12:26:03.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26026" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:07:56.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just spit balling here but it may be possible battery's life has come to an end. Cranking a vehicle draws a lot of current from the battery acting as a big straw that sucks current away from other components (ECU and dashboard). I would first proceed by changing the car battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on if the vehicle failed to start first time ^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is some vehicles have a safety feature that shuts the vehicle down if it has failed to start a number of times. So if the vehicle was repeatedly cranking this may have kicked in. this safety feature disengages after around 10 15 minutes (possibly more depending on vehicle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming after you charged the vehicle the lights came back on (safety feature disengaged) could you have possibly burnt the starter motor out? Or could it possibly be jammed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^ This would depend on the vehicle failing to start Repeatedly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sure some other person with more experience will be along shortly with what could possibly be a common fault of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T13:32:57.747" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:32:57.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26025" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:30:27.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is most likely the battery. Either it is completely dead, or it has lost connection at the terminal (or somewhere in the chain). Check to see if the battery itself has power. Set your multimeter to read voltage. Next, place the red lead to the positive battery terminal (should have a large &lt;strong&gt;+&lt;/strong&gt; sign near it). Place the black lead to the negative battery terminal (should have a large &lt;strong&gt;-&lt;/strong&gt; sign near it). Voltage should read over 12.5vdc if it's in good shape (usually about 13.1vdc if fully charged). The battery would be in a weakened state between 11-12.5vdc, but &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; possibly start the vehicle. Below 11vdc it becomes really dicey and getting your vehicle started without a boost is most likely not going to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does appear to be the issue, try to get a jump (boost) start first and see if it will at least get the vehicle to turn on. If that doesn't work, pull the battery out of the vehicle and charge it to full capacity. While it's out of the car, clean both connections so they are ready to go back onto the battery when it's fully charged. If the battery does not come back up to full charge, it will need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery appears to be in good condition, you'll need to look elsewhere. First place to look is at the terminals, wires, and connections where the wires terminate at the other end (away from the battery). Make sure all of the connections are tight and not corroded. Clean/tighten as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't fix your issue, you'll have to dig deeper, such as the ignition switch as @Zaid suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:30:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26026" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:35:24.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though either its a bad battery or the battery has lost connection. Your best bet is to take the battery out of your vehicle and charge it. If it comes up to full charge, put it back into the vehicle and see if that does the trick. If it won't charge, take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it. They can tell you if it's bad or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T13:35:24.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26013" CreationDate="2016-02-14T16:19:08.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to installation instructions for a cd changer retrofit on an E90 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bavauto.com/Assets/inst_pages/ins375.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;linked here&lt;/a&gt;, yes you will need to code the car for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coding the car will require an INPA OBD2 cable (purchased on Amazon, eBay, etc.) and the appropriate BMW progman software. Some INPA cables will come with software, but it's usually best to get the latest versions. If you have a Windows XP laptop laying around that's the best platform to install the progman/ediabas/INPA software bundle, which also enables fun things like checking trouble codes, inspecting sensor outputs and registering a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING:&lt;/strong&gt; Be extremely careful if you choose to code your car yourself! It is entirely possible to &quot;brick&quot; your car. Find instructions on coding through the E90 forums or &lt;a href=&quot;http://codinge90.com/getting-started/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; and follow them to the letter. If any of this concerns you, please contact your nearest dealer to get the car coded appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:19:08.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T16:33:36.673" Score="3" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious some people say change oil every 3k miles, 6k, 10k and some even every 20k. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seams best for the engine and give the best protection would be the shortest interval 3k however I understand what after an oil and filter change when the vehicle is started it runs without lubrication until oil is sucked up through the new filter passed the anti-drain back valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much damage does this actually cause? it must feel like a mini heart attack on the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really know how wear can be measured in this way so put it this way, by changing the oil and running without lubrication for a brief few seconds how many miles would be taken from the engines life? 10miles 100miles, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your time look forward to seeing your opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T03:23:18.760" Title="Effects of loss of oil pressure after oil change" Tags="|oil|oil-change|lubrication|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-15T15:19:58.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T16:53:26.590" Score="5" ViewCount="14899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey so I have this 2007 civic coupe and when I try to start the car it doesnt click at all.  The dash lights come on and that's about it.  The battery light, oil pressure light, and a small green key light all come on if I try to start the car.  I have no oil leaks, no engine cracks as far as I can tell, the battery is fully charged and I've had the oil changed in the past 2 months.  Like I said I can try to turn the ignition but only the dash lights and the following warning lights appear.  The car doesn't click when I turn the ignition either.  Ive heard it could be the alternator, the starter, or the anti-theft system in the car.  Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15038" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T08:42:25.797" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:10:59.530" Title="2007 Honda Civic Coupe won't crank" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26839" CreationDate="2016-02-14T18:58:39.533" Score="10" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;While no stranger to engine building, I've often wondered what the differences are with valve springs and why you need one over another for different applications. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a correlation between seat pressure and valve lift? (I'm trying to find out if there is a linear chart which could be displayed.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the differences between a spring used with a roller cam and a flat tappet cam?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Besides frictional losses, are there any other down sides to running a valve spring with a higher seat pressure than what you need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T00:40:48.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:44:32.100" Title="Differences in valve springs" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:38:44.560" Score="7" ViewCount="2469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vehicle with a Chrysler 360 industrial application engine made in 1987 with 70k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't driven it before and I don't know the prior history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;recently I did drive it just a few hundred feet, after letting it idle for an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it died and I noticed that it had very low oil and the radiator fans were not running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have changed the oil and the radiator fans run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;What diagnostics or visual inspections can I do to determine if there was any damage done by letting it run with no radiator fan and low oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:22:34.647" Title="Check for overheat damage" Tags="|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26044" CreationDate="2016-02-14T20:39:16.180" Score="5" ViewCount="1316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's butt cold here in Maine &amp;amp; my car wouldn't start. It has a 1/4 tank of gas &amp;amp; I was unable to add 1/2 bottle of dry gas as it comes out very fast. So despite the directions on the bottle saying to add a whole thing of dry gas to AT LEAST a 1/2 tank of gas, I now have most of a bottle in 1/4 tank. What is going to happen now? Anything? What should I do next? Any input is appreciated! Thank you! ~ Mechanically Spastic &amp;amp; Freezing in Maine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15042" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T22:18:33.480" Title="Re: Dry Gas (specifically STP Water Remover)" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26038" CreationDate="2016-02-14T21:06:23.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of no crank on this model is starter failure. When this starter fails it is unlikely to make any noise unlike the older designs that had a different solenoid design. The older types made a loud click from the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dash lights stay on bright during a crank attempt the starter and alternator are OK. The lights should dim a little, but not dim way down or go out, during cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the immobilizer is blocking cranking on a Honda the green key blinks. In normal operation it comes on for a few seconds at key on and then goes off. So this system is not likely to be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T21:06:23.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26041" CreationDate="2016-02-14T22:18:33.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel dryer products usually contain anhydrous (dewatered) ethyl alcohol. This absorbs water from gasoline and the air. No damage will be done as modern fuel systems are designed to handle ethanol. If you are concerned about long term effects of this slight over-concentration make one trip the the filling station and fill the tank. If this was my car would not be concerned and drive as usual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a significant amount of water is suspected to be in the tank several treatments will be needed as each bottle of drier only absorbs a few ounces of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water in fuel is not common any more as the ethanol in E-10 usually holds any water in suspension throughout the delivery system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alcohols can be a problem in fuel systems in cars built before the the 1980's as the elastomers in the fuel delivery system can be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T22:18:33.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T00:55:24.960" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Activa 2007 model. The battery fitted in it is electrolyte topup battery which requires distilled water to be filled up from time to time. My question is can a maintenance free battery be fitted in place of an electrolyte battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15045" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T00:44:16.730" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:40:27.323" Title="Are two-wheeler battery types interchangable" Tags="|honda|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-16T20:42:46.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26023" CreationDate="2016-02-15T01:36:52.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the sensors- did you clear the codes and drive the car on the highway for a while so that the car computer can re-read the cars activity codes?  After finding the codes and performing repair, you should clear codes before trying to get another code reading.  Try clearing your codes first.  No promises here- but this maybe just what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T01:36:52.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4931" CreationDate="2016-02-15T01:49:35.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;carbon build-up (Carbon Soot) in your system will also cause white smoke as the carbon attempts to burn away.  Maybe you should check your easier possibilities first.  MAFS- Mas Air Flow Sensor, EGR- Electronic Gas Re-circulator, Throttle Position Sensor, O 2 Sensor, and you may want to clean out your Throttle body unit.  Videos on these subjects are available on Youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T01:49:35.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26037" CreationDate="2016-02-15T03:23:18.760" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can change your oil every 3 months if you desire.  This will not damage your vehicle system.  It's a good idea to fill your oil filter as completely as possible before installing the new Oil filter.  This could help to avoid air gaps in your oil flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T03:23:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2016-02-15T03:38:25.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i used 35 weight silcone shock fluid from an R/C truck shocks... hope it works  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15048" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T03:38:25.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7113" CreationDate="2016-02-15T04:08:48.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you have power and everything else works fine accept your Acceleration:  I would take this to be a &lt;strong&gt;dirty Throttle Body Unit&lt;/strong&gt; or a failed &lt;strong&gt;Throttle Position Sensor&lt;/strong&gt;  and your &lt;strong&gt;Mas Air Flow Sensor.&lt;/strong&gt;  Now for vibration issues I would check your Fast Idle Air Control Valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T04:08:48.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2016-02-15T04:49:48.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it sounds like a fan that will not turn the blades:  the spindle rotates but it's not fitted tight enough to the blade pulley and causes a loud rubbing humm.  This sound is also typical in &lt;strong&gt;Worn Hub Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;  The sound is almost like the sound of a bad heater blower spindle not making good contact with the blower-fan in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T04:49:48.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T04:51:52.890" Score="3" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car overheats to the max, the heater will not heat even in full blast. When the car overheats there is no steam or boiling coolant. The radiator has antifreeze and the reservoir is overflowing. I don't know what could be causing this problem, please help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15049" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T05:33:39.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T05:46:22.193" Title="2003 Buick Rendezvous overheating without steam, coolant overflow at normal temperature" Tags="|coolant|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-24T02:25:50.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26053" CreationDate="2016-02-15T05:46:22.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be the thermostat stuck closed but that doesn't completely explain the heater not blowing warm air. When it's overheating are the upper and lower radiator hoses hot, how about the radiator itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T05:46:22.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26039" CreationDate="2016-02-15T06:21:16.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly what it will boil down to is homework.  The application you are going after.  Is it horsepower you want or torque?  Is it an overhead cam or rolling rocker?  Do you want them to last or last long enough?  Are you getting quality manufactured springs or cheapest, and are you trying to match them all up? Is your cam a higher duration?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Too weak and the spring won't keep the valve closed.  Engine manu specs will usually only list what the weakest it should be. Other than that someone else will have to enlighten me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Spring compression.  Rockers are usually used for longer stroke motors and lower RPM, they tend to need to compress a longer distance. They also have different designs available like the beehive style.  Flat tappets will usually have 1 spring inside the other for added strength while avoiding coil bind with too much material.  They can also be lighter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If you are running a multi chain valvetrain(V style dohc), it is possible to advance or retard the timing as there is the possibility of slack(physical timing as opposed to ignition timing).  Valve train tension could alter how the side of the v gets and releases its air. One other consideration: valve face, valve seat, and valve head quality.  Are the materials of a high enough quality t that they can withstand the additional pressure?  Enough of a face, or the seat cut right?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were building a Harley engine and went with a very aggressive cam.  I would start looking at what recommended springs would be needed.  Coil bind being the most important if the cam has a very high lift.  Then finding the best spring that I can(best bang for the buck, weight, design and limitations of).  After I order about 30 springs for intake and exhaust each, finding the ones that match.  Meaning all intake springs are the same strength and coil bind, and exhaust are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T06:21:16.897" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26023" CreationDate="2016-02-15T06:21:17.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Red/Yellow wire is in the harness, not on the O2 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's can only be something that effects all 4 sensors. The ground is provided individually for each sensor by the PCM so it can't be on the ground side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is provided by Fuse 21, but that also powers the EVAP canister vent valve so  if that fuse was blown it would also set an EVAP code, but you defiantly have a problem on the power side of the harness. Shortly after the Red/Yellow wire leaves the Fuse block it splits off from the EVAP circuit and runs down near the right side headlamp, along the right inner fender (under the finder skirt if I remember correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trace that wire from the fuse box to the O2 sensors, you will likely find a damaged harness along the lower right fender area. You will have to get to it from the bottom of the car. I have had at least two different Crown Vics with damage in the same area. I believe it's a common failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T06:21:17.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26057" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T07:03:36.083" Score="3" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Peugeot 406, manufacture year 2001, engine 1.8, very recently I had overheating issue due to thermostat valve block. I have replace thermostat valve and now I can see engine oil mix with radiator coolant. When I check radiator I can see milky oil in radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to fix this without replacing cylinder-head-gasket using &quot;steel seal head gasket sealer&quot; but I realize it only seal radiator to engine leaks. (radiator coolant leaks to engine.) but I have engine oil comes to radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there any sealant to stop engine oil leak to radiator or do I need to replace cylinder-head-gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;plz help me.&#xA;Thanks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15051" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T00:15:27.133" Title="Peugeot 406 1.8 engine, oil comes to radiator" Tags="|peugeot|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T08:20:16.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing an analysis project on radiators so I need to know the input temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what average temperature does the coolant enter radiator (not thermostat opening temperature) during normal motion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at what average temperature does the coolant leave the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15050" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T09:27:44.640" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T20:15:56.707" Title="Temperature of coolant before and after radiator" Tags="|coolant|radiator|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-16T12:07:55.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2016-02-15T09:06:57.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it happens do some tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) place the car in neutral if it goes away then it might have some thing to do with your drive shaft of differential&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) try very lightly pressing the brakes if it changes then you might have a loose brake pad or something else wrong with the brakes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) try Turn from side to side (be carefull) if the noise changes then it might be from the wheel hub assembly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T09:06:57.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T09:26:12.867" Score="3" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is commonly used nanofluid coolant for automobile radiator ? And any specific reason for that coolant ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15050" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T10:36:21.203" Title="What is commonly used nanofluid coolant for automobile radiator" Tags="|coolant|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26022" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:06:36.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blocked jets in the carburettor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small particles of grit can block any one of the jets in these carburettors.  The fuel still gets to the engine through the other jets but the efficiency is much degraded.  The number and size of the jets varies by model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this problem on various old Russian and pre-VW Skoda cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the carburettor is easy to work on and you have two approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  On older carburettors there will be a connector where you can connect a tyre pump and give a blast of air to clear the grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  The jets easily unscrew, so you can blow through them individually.  You will have to take the top off the float chamber to access some of them, this is just a matter of half a dozen screws.  The float is connected to the top and will lift out as you remove the top.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While you have the float chamber exposed, it is worth checking if there is grit sitting at the bottom.  If so, wipe it out with a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T10:27:05.890" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T10:27:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:20:20.173" Score="4" ViewCount="6393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing research about the smart junction box of a car but on the Internet there is nothing that shows its functionality. I am looking to do some research about it and try to improve its functionalities (as a project) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are: What is SJB? What is its purpose in a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15055" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T08:14:07.623" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T00:57:37.783" Title="The purpose of Smart Junction Box in a car" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26060" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:36:21.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nanofluid coolant is basically part ethylene-glycol heat transfer agent from regular coolant and part water with suspended sub 100 nanometer-sized particles (CuO, for example) which boasts better heat conductivity than regular coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this is the one you are talking about, as I've never seen it used in cars in practice, only read about them in scientific papers where they are tested as potential replacement for conventional coolant. It is sometimes used in computer water cooling systems by computer building enthusiasts, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T10:36:21.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T10:38:34.160" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to install two LED Auxiliary Fog lamps of 27w each (54 w in total), for my motorbike powered through a 12V Battery. What type (capacity) of relay should be used for this. Kindly let me know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15056" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:31:53.037" Title="Relay for Auxiliary Fog lamps of 54 w (27W x 2 lamps)" Tags="|motorcycle|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26070" CreationDate="2016-02-15T11:17:14.213" Score="10" ViewCount="10045" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a non damaging way to clean my muddy radiator? Preferably without removing it from the bike.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isFAU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/isFAU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;, after cleaning it with sprayed hot water and small brushes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiC04.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiC04.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I only used up-down moves, to prevent bending.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T09:58:07.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T09:58:07.027" Title="Cleaning mud from motorcycle radiator" Tags="|motorcycle|radiator|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T11:21:53.687" Score="22" ViewCount="14217" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can probably tell from the question, I know almost nothing about motor vehicles. So apologies for my ignorance but I wasn't sure where else I might get this question answered impartially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers recommend that cars are serviced at various time/mileage intervals and garages offer various levels of service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, here in the UK at least we have yearly check-ups to ensure the vehicle is safe to run. This is a legal requirement, and should catch any major issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern cars seem to be mechanically extremely sound. The last two cards I've owned - a period of about 15 years - have needed minimal work, except for periodic brake disc replacement, and I have hardly ever had them serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, what's the point of having a car serviced? Is it worthwhile, or is it a bit of a money-spinning scam, like selling extra warranty on products? If it is worthwhile, do I really need to stick to the suggested mileage/timescales and pay for &quot;quality&quot; services or will a more bargain basement approach be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15057" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:10:47.283" Title="What's the point of servicing a car?" Tags="|service|servicing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-15T12:05:22.090" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of servicing any vehicle is to replace consumables that have a limited lifetime:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oils (usually engine oil, but there could be other)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;filters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake pads (very important!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;miscellaneous (depending on vehicle it could be: timing belt, gaskets, hoses, cables)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from these there are other parts that are not necessarily part of the servicing process (because they don't have a predictable lifetime), but you may want to change them at the same time because you're already at the mechanic. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights (very easy to not notice that you have a light off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that you had you &quot;brake disc&quot; replaced periodically. From what I know, you should not replace those &lt;em&gt;periodically&lt;/em&gt;, but rather because of improper usage. If you do that, it's a sign that you did not replace your &lt;strong&gt;brake pads&lt;/strong&gt; during normal servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the UK periodical check-ups, but I would assume that they are similar to the rest of EU. In that case, their purpose it to make sure your vehicle is safe to drive on a road. The servicing is complementary, and its purpose is to make sure your vehicle will stay on the road for a long time, not only until the next year. For example, some very old engine oil will most probably not give you any trouble with the yearly check-up, but it should still be changed because it degrades and, in time, will cause your engine to break down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T09:53:26.300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T09:53:26.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-15T12:11:06.203" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr: To improve the useful life of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While vehicles seem to be lasting longer, there still isn't a perfect machine out there: they all need maintenance of some sort or another if you expect them to live a long and healthy life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three major purposes to having your vehicle serviced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longevity&lt;/strong&gt;: If you want to get the most out of your vehicle, you need to keep up on the maintenance. Not doing the maintenance could mean the difference between the vehicle lasting 50k miles versus one which does get proper maintenance lasting 250k miles (I'm just throwing numbers out there, but this is a reasonable assumption). If a vehicle was to last twice as long with proper maintenance, it will still be cheaper to do the maintenance than it would be to replace the vehicle ... and vehicle prices &lt;em&gt;are not coming down&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Peace of Mind&lt;/strong&gt;: If you get your vehicle serviced regularly, you'll have less of a chance of it leaving you stranded on the road. Even if you do the maintenance yourself, doing the maintenance will give you a chance to check the car over to see if there is anything which requires attention. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warranty&lt;/strong&gt;: Every new car comes with a warranty. If you don't keep up with the maintenance, the vehicle manufacturer will not cover a warranty item. You are paying a lot of money for a new car. Not doing routine service is just a good way of throwing a large chunk of that money right out the window. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you stick to the timetable provided by the manufacturer. The manufacturer has a schedule of services which will help your vehicle last a long time if followed correctly. They hope you'll come into their dealerships to have the vehicle serviced, but there is no guarantee you will. The onus is on the customer to make it happen, but it is a reasonable amount of service in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the bargain basement approach is doing the maintenance yourself. Yes, you need to be environmentally responsible and dispose of waste materials properly, which can be a huge pain, but is usually fairly easy to accomplish if you try. Most of the &lt;em&gt;fast lube joints&lt;/em&gt; will do an acceptable job on your maintenance, but they get paid to do &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; maintenance on your vehicle, meaning they will often tell you the vehicle needs &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; maintenance than what is required. If you ensure you know your maintenance schedule and just go to get what you need done, you can tell them with confidence exactly what needs to be done and you won't have the sky high bill for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T12:11:06.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26066" CreationDate="2016-02-15T12:51:22.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a garden weed sprayer, its less powerful than a high pressure washer yet can have its jet aimed in a small area.  Additionally you can fill it with hot water which will help loosen the mud.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nX6z9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nX6z9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Portable Weed Sprayer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a few applications of something like Muc-off too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally its best to try to remove the gunk as soon as you get home rather than wait till its totally dried in as it should be easier to dislodge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A liberal spray of bike protector (ACF 50, or the like) will help dislodge future build up of mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice any bent fins, you can purchase a fin comb to straighten them again.  Your motor supplies store should have one or know where to get them, alternatively try online.. Just search for Radiator Fin Comb in your favourite search engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T09:32:01.543" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T09:32:01.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:32:03.227" Score="7" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is a Volvo S80, produced in 1998 for the European market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under some non-reproducible condition (it is in fact so non-reproducible that it appears random), emergency lights in the dashboard will suddenly indicate brake failure and the speedometer as well as the RPM gauge will immediately die (as in go to zero as if the engine is not turned on anymore). The backlights also go dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kicker? The brakes still work and the engine is still running (and operates quite fine, at least from the driver's standpoint). It is possible to drive however long and far as needed, and the car does not feel or sound different in any way. However, if you turn off the ignition you won't be able to start the engine again. I assume it is the brake malfunction error that prevents the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugging the battery for 30 seconds and replugging it removes all indicators of error or malfunction and the car starts normally. The error situation as described above may arise again later at some random interval - it may be as little as 2 days later or it may be several months later without any incident inbetween.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been in and out of the shop and no one is any wiser for it. The car has since this problem first arose had several services, so I assume all filters have been changed at least once. To my knowledge, no sensors have been replaced yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on where to look or things to replace? Other troubleshooting tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13799" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:32:31.880" Title="Brake malfunction indicator turns on, all gauges die off, but engine and brakes still work" Tags="|troubleshooting|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:53:28.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly servicing an engine will allow it to do a lot more miles before it wears out.     For example old oil does not protect the engine well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However in the UK the maths get interesting….&lt;/strong&gt;.  As most “basic” cars much over 5 years old has a low replacement cost and very few people drive more than 20K miles a year (most people with older cars drive closer to 10K miles a year.)  Also if an old car gets written off in an accident the insurance company will not pay you more because the car has been well serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in the past chosen to service a car only every other year as it was of the age that we would not get anything for selling it regardless of what happened.   These days we get our cars serviced every year, partly because the garage is so helpful if we get any problems in-between services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T13:53:28.037" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:57:09.000" Score="5" ViewCount="5033" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car handbook lists what should be done at each service, and it does not say “engine flush” should be used.   The main dealers don’t use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet most small garages seem to insist on using it at every oil change…. &lt;strong&gt;Why&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It is not them trying to make more money, as they only charge about £3 for the engine flush.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T14:37:58.180" Title="Why does my garage insist on using an engine flush when changing the oil?" Tags="|oil-change|service|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26038" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:10:59.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If no clicks heard from under the bonnet, it could be easily starter solenoid is stuck. In some cases, it could help if you throw few knocks on the solenoid with a stick like hammer handle, this could free up the solenoid and your car would crank again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:10:59.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26057" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:18:52.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget all the &quot;quick leak fix sealants&quot; because they tend to make more harm than good in long run. If you had recently overheating issues, cylinder head is probably warped and seal is shot. And needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common cause which can leak oil into the coolant is the engine oil cooler, which is located directly before oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:18:52.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:31:53.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;54 watts at 12v equates to 4.5A. That's not a lot. Any 20A automotive relay will the job. You can get both the relay and socket for the relay at almost any parts store. Here's what a 4-post looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXXjW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXXjW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:31:53.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26071" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:32:31.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The S80 from this period had a high failure rate of ABS modules. Your symptoms seem to match this problem. A failing ABS module will show brake errors and corrupt instrument panel data (lights, speed, temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would help if you read the fault codes before disconnecting the battery, as doing so clears them before you can take a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:32:31.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26040" CreationDate="2016-02-15T15:23:35.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to see any sign of Overheating directly. Basically you will only see something if there was damage done.&#xA;One possible consequence could be a warped head. This often leads to bad sealing at the head-gasket, usually leading to water-to-oil and oil-to-water leakage. This can be detected by looking into the oil-filler or taking of the valve cover and checking for a white emulsion, indicating that there is water in the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14840" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T15:23:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T16:26:55.813" Score="20" ViewCount="5088" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to be an expert to notice that over time, the percentage of manual transmission cars has lowered. Automatic cars are not only more popular, but more comfortable, easier to use and actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://energy.gov/eere/vehicles/fact-850-december-8-2014-automatic-transmissions-have-closed-fuel-economy-gap-manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;better in fuel efficiency&lt;/a&gt;. I've searched the Internet for graphs showing the proportion of automatic and manual cars over the years, but I haven't found any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a graph or chart on the Internet showing the production or sales between automatic and manual transmission cars over the years?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: As &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/12030/jphi1618&quot;&gt;JPhi1618&lt;/a&gt; commented, this may vary a lot in different countries. I am more interested in the US, but an answer about another region or the whole world may still be helpful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:42:40.893" Title="Are manual transmission cars disappearing?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-16T17:11:01.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-15T18:33:20.827" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short term answer: No. There are a lot of countries where the price difference between a manual and an automatic will matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term answer: Yes. But because of a different reason, I'd say - electric cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T18:33:20.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-15T19:14:27.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the answer is &quot;Yes&quot;. In the US it might be extinct in a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me back that up, I live in India and and 98% of the cars on the roads are manual. The automatic transmission is a luxury which most buyers just skip on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the only two things which inhibits the population to move towards automatic are price and fuel economy. Modern automatics are actually more fuel efficient so that problem is solved so realistically only price remains the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember when the cellphones came out in 1995 only a select few had them in the US. We in India didn't even know those things existed. Then Nokia came along and made them cheap so by 2005 40% of the population had cell phones. Now its close to 100% so eventually everything will be moved to automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Analysts have predicted that by 2030 we won't have manual transmissions at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T10:12:57.127" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T10:12:57.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26027" CreationDate="2016-02-15T19:38:41.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine Identification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify your engine.  There should be a CC (cubic centimeters) number stamped on the side of the cylinder.  This will be below your head and above your cases.  (sorry of I'm being too elementary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely you will see the numbers stamped into the side of the cylinder towards the bottom of the casting.  The cc number or the c3 number should help you identify the motor you have in your ATV by telling you the volume of the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgdRk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgdRk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parts Identificaiton&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your identification issue is a tough one.  Here are some parts fiche views for you to see if you can identify a delta between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first blush, they appear to look the same between the 125 and the 185 regarding the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LT185&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the pull starter for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d083e9f870022710159b9c/recoil-starter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1985 Suzuki LT185&lt;/a&gt; E,F and G Model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CUP, STARTER MODEL E/F/G Part Number 18411-24401 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H Model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CUP, STARTER MODEL H Part Number 18411-18911&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LT125&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the pull starter for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d082e4f8700227101599ea/recoil-starter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1985 Suzuki LT125&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the part number and description&#xA;CUP, STARTER 18411-18911&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T18:22:37.907" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T18:22:37.907" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26063" CreationDate="2016-02-15T20:10:35.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ford Smart Junction Box&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The features listed below depend on make, model and year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to flash or program the module without the Ford PMI (Programmable Module Installation) Tool.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=404&amp;amp;viewfile=Programmable%20Module%20Installation.pdf&quot;&gt;Here are instructions.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ford%20smart%20junction%20box#seen&quot;&gt;Here's what Googling get's you.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Controls Power Windows&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Controls Power Door Locks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Controls Cruise Control&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Headlights&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Indicators&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Windshield Wipers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Key Fob Remote Unlock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Key Fob programming and fob association with vehicle (security)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air Conditioning&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Temp Display&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Factory Installed Alarm (security)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T20:10:35.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26058" CreationDate="2016-02-15T20:15:56.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too much variance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is too broad.  Different models, engine types, fuel systems, exhaust systems and engine configurations make this impossible to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to know about your car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=infrared%20heat%20detector&amp;amp;oq=infrared%20heat%20detector&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.8439j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can get one of these&lt;/a&gt; and check various temperature ranges under various circumstances like pulling a load up a hill, driving in city traffic, cruising down the freeway and idling by putting your car under the load, driving for a bit and then stopping and checking yourself using the thermometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;if your programming a solution for general use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a template solution and numbers for a particular app you are writing then I think you need to have a different way of looking at it that's threshold driven for alerting or some such solution.  I think a MaxTemp view is more tenable than seeking averages across all of the various platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T20:15:56.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-15T20:16:43.880" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/driving-stick-pros-cons-manual-transmissions-article-1.1247896&quot;&gt;NY Daily News&lt;/a&gt;, only &lt;strong&gt;6.5%&lt;/strong&gt; of cars in the United States were Manual Transmission in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That number may even be an overestimate. More helpful is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fix.com/blog/manual-vs-automatic-transmissions/&quot;&gt;Fix.com&lt;/a&gt;, which actually has a useful chart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fix.com/blog/manual-vs-automatic-transmissions/&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.fix.com/assets/content/15256/manual-vs-auto-embed-large.png&quot; alt=&quot;1987: 29% of new car sales; 2003: 8.2%; 2013: 3.9%. 2014 Ford Focus: 30 MPG for manual, 31 MPG for automatic, 33 MPG for automatic with automatic with Super Fuel Economy option. 2007: 29% of vehicles offered with manual; 2012: 19% offered with manual.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15070" LastEditorUserId="15070" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T02:43:44.020" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T02:43:44.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T20:43:27.907" Score="10" ViewCount="13958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can i use ATF dexron3/mercon in power steering reservoir in my '04 toyota 4runner. owners manual calls for dexron 2 or 3. i don't know what mercon is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15072" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:56:51.960" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:56:51.960" Title="Can i use ATF for power steering?" Tags="|toyota|power-steering|4runner|atf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26087" CreationDate="2016-02-15T20:56:56.020" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a lot of power steering pumps call for automatic transmission fluid (ATF) instead of traditional power steering fluid. The difference between the two fluids will vary between brands, but has to do with a difference in cleaning, lubricating and hydraulic characteristics. Often if the wrong type is used, the fluid will eat the seals in the power steering pump and rack and pinion system. MERCON is Ford's ATF certification program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the owners manual, the power steering reservoir cap will say what type of fluid to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T20:56:56.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26104" CreationDate="2016-02-15T21:23:36.480" Score="7" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;'04 Cavalier, 120K mi.  We've had it for 6 years, driven every winter.  Now, this winter, we occasionally get an ABS fault.  This probably always occurs under slipping conditions.  When it happens, the 'Low Trak' light also comes on.  So, it would be a 'Yeah, so?' thing, except it didn't happen before, and, I don't see this winter's driving as any different than prior years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires are not new, but more than legal; I would say tread is about 'normal' for us - so, again, not markedly different than prior years.  I also swapped them (front &amp;lt;-&gt; rear), which didn't change anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension is OK, AFACT, though the rear struts are old.  In any case, the fault doesn't correlate with bouncing or such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit (OP): The ABS (always, I think) works normally, and doesn't fault, when the brakes are applied.  The fault occurs when there's slip under torque.  Even, pretty minimal torque.  I don't know if it happens every time there's slip.  It seems unlikely, but I can't rule it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Why the change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus Q: Once a fault occurs, ABS is disabled until the car is shut off and restarted.  Why would they design it that way?  If ABS is safer, isn't this unnecessarily less safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastEditorUserId="10471" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T21:35:15.583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T21:35:15.583" Title="Occasional ABS fault" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|abs|warning-light|cavalier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26093" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:28:37.800" Score="10" ViewCount="6703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate it when people slam my car doors shut, as I am convinced that they will bend and will create wind noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it bad to slam car doors?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will it cause the doors to bend?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T06:28:57.567" Title="Will slamming doors shut damage my car?" Tags="|door|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26091" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:36:16.273" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have lived under the impression that they will not bend as the entire surface of the door that touches the body would hit evenly at the same time along the entire surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a bar at a point on the surface near the hinge I imagine that the door would become damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;damage I would worry about&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Door internals&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Window components and arms to raise and lower windows&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Various clips popping off trim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Locking mechanisms, especially the point of contact with the body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Electronic switches&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The window, I've seen windows get cracked from slamming doors and not necessarily the window that's on the door.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T22:36:16.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:37:42.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is that having a car serviced and well maintained regularly will make the car last longer. Also less major things will go wrong if you get the little things done on your car that they recommend. To your question about it being a scam it depends on the person some people will rip you off because they know you don't know about cars the best way to avoid this is get multiple people to inspect the car. Have each person that inspected the car tell you what they think and how much it will be and you can find a average price this way so you wont get scammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15078" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T22:49:36.430" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T22:49:36.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26089" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:46:49.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience intermittent ABS issues are not solely but often caused by a worn wheel bearing. This is speculation but it may be that the spinning wheel is effecting the wheel bearing. The worn bearing allows the hub to move enough to miss a sensor pulse and light the fault light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T22:46:49.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:49:38.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, my wife is disabled and can’t drive a manual car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we try to hire cars on holiday, we never find it easy to hire an automatic anywhere in Europe.  (There was none when we went on holiday to Turkey, a lot of companies claim to have them on their web site, but after you try to book, you get told that they don’t.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When she has brought new cars, the dealer was never able to provide a car for a test drive as an automatic is a special order item in the UK.&#xA;Likewise when her car goes into a dealer to get serviced, they always claim that they will provide a replacement car, until they are told that an automatic is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic cars cost more than manuals in the UK when new, but cost about the same when purchased as 2nd hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So outside of the USA, manual transmissions are still the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T08:56:02.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:56:02.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:54:26.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servicing usually applies to the replacement of items which are consumable or have a limited life and need to be routinely replaced at regular intervals, including things like lubricants and filters there may also be a few parts which might need to be replaced at much longer intervals such as timing belts, oil seals and wheel bearings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a routine service will not be a through inspection of the vehicle but rather a predetermined replacement of item which have a service life which is shorter than that of the vehicle as a whole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly an MOT test is intended to check that the vehicle is in a safe and roadworthy condition and while this may flag up some issues related to reliability many issues won't show up on an MOT until they are very severe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some things that you should check yourself on a regular basis such as condition of tyres and levels of oil, coolant and other fluids.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T23:24:17.567" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T23:24:17.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-15T23:20:04.217" Score="7" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the electronic relays may be cheaper; and having less moving parts they are theoretically less prone to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do cars still use mechanical relays for turning lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:26:23.607" Title="Why do cars still use mechanical blinker relays?" Tags="|wiring|lights|turn-signal|relay|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26098" CreationDate="2016-02-15T23:43:04.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of several reasons straight away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a very distinctive click that makes it obvious when they are on, and when a bulb has failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are very well understood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyone can fit one without needing to understand much about electronics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="9367" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T01:26:23.607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:26:23.607" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26073" CreationDate="2016-02-16T00:10:25.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, money. Even if its $3, that counts as an &lt;em&gt;upsell&lt;/em&gt;. They will probably sell the &quot;engine flush&quot; to most people. Raising the average sale by a fair amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the vehicle's manual. Don't give in to these offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T00:10:25.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26057" CreationDate="2016-02-16T00:15:27.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there any sealant to stop engine oil leak to radiator &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or do I need to replace cylinder-head-gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. But also you need to have the head and the block checked for warping. They head might need to be re-surfaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T00:15:27.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26040" CreationDate="2016-02-16T01:22:34.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low oil will lead to knocking or ticking.  Your main concern are spun rod bearings or main bearing.  You may also have wear on the cam.  Lifter tick will typically clear up on its own.  Listen for knocking, and watch your oil pressure.  Gouges will raise the area oil can pump into, lowering pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overheating - main concern is warping the cylinder head.  Easiest check is to do a compression test.  The cylinders should be within 10% of each other.  Typically 120 minimum.  Also, watch for smoke from the exhaust that smells like coolant.  You could also be coolant and oil mixing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:22:34.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26089" CreationDate="2016-02-16T07:24:18.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that as soon as the vehicle detects a wheel has locked up, the ABS goes into failure mode.  This would suggest to me that you may have a fault in the abs module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a wheel bearing or sensor that was at fault, I would expect occasional false activation of the ABS and also normal activation where the pedal judders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks instead like the ABS ECU is detecting the wheel locking, then it tries to activate the ABS, but either the ABS valve body or the possible the pump mechanism is not working correctly and so the ABS fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T07:24:18.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26045" CreationDate="2016-02-16T08:40:27.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I've made this swap myself on one of my bikes. You just need to make sure that the maximum current (sometimes referred to as 'cold cranking amperage') and Ah ratings are at least as much as the old battery. It doesn't matter if the new battery has higher Ah or current ratings, that won't cause any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:40:27.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-16T09:00:17.897" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK annual vehicle test (the MOT) is purely to verify that the vehicle is safe to run on the roads and is not going to cause an accident or extra damage... so the tyres have tread / the brakes and steering function to an acceptable level / the engine does not produce excessive amounts of emissions / the windows can be seen through / there are no sharp holes or edges and so on. The test doesn't care how many mpg you get (as long as it's not spewing oil or soot out of the exhaust in too great a quantity), doesn't care if your car's gearbox is missing all it's oil, doesn't really care if the car's cooling system is empty, doesn't care if the water pump squeals, doesn't care if the vehicle takes half an hour to start on a cold day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fail to get wear items replaced the consequences tend to be costly. If you don't change the cam belt at the recommended interval, it can fail with very expensive results. If you don't change the air filter, the fuel/air mix can drift from ideal and you waste fuel. If you don't change the oil, the combustion waste products that get into it and the wear products from the engine gradually contaminate it and destroy it's carefully engineered behaviour and the bearing faces wear faster. Some cars deliberately leak gearbox oil to lubricate splines in the power train, so if you don't top up the oil the gear box will run out and then the components will wear out. If you don't change the spark plugs, the spark gaps may get bigger as the plug burns away and the car will get harder to start on cold days. Eventually, bits may fall off the spark plugs and jam in the insides of the engine. Servicing is generally to replace stuff that wears out, leaks out or adjust stuff that wears down. If you don't do it, the car will break down more often, more expensively and will cost more to run before it eventually needs replacing earlier than if you looked after it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the bottom line is money. An un-serviced car will often cost more to run than a serviced one. An un-serviced car will generally be worth less when you come to sell it than one with a service history (assuming the un-serviced one doesn't break down and get sold for scrap). If you drive 1000 miles a year and keep the car until it dies maybe you can get by without servicing. If you drive 2000 miles a month and don't service the car at all, it will go wrong within a few years. Consider this... companies like National Express or London Transport service their vehicles &lt;em&gt;because it's better for their profit&lt;/em&gt;... if they could make more money not bothering with servicing, they would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15085" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T09:00:17.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T10:32:09.847" Score="5" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have engine overheat complaint.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was sufficient engine oil and coolant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pressure also at specified rate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always I am having this issue on first cylinder at maximum time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15090" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T11:35:22.633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T11:35:22.633" Title="Possible cause for piston melt in CNG 6 cylinder?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26108" CreationDate="2016-02-16T10:44:27.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly an air leak on the inlet manifold gasket next to cylinder 1.  Under heavy load, the extra air can cause the fuel to burn hot, which will cause the piston to melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T10:44:27.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-16T11:00:01.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure that in real use an automatic is better than a manual in fuel consumption, rather that they are easier to fiddle the official figures with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example European fuel consumption and emissions testing controls the gear change points which make a massive difference to fuel consumption on the tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an automatic the change point are not controlled by the test, rather by the gearbox. Hence the maker can tailor the gear change points to the test, even if that test is not really representative of real life. By this method they can gain in the test far more than they lose from the less efficient transmission and greater weight (gaining large but unwarranted tax advantages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However many automatics are now really automated manual gearboxes. These are as efficient as manual gearboxes but also have the same testing advantage as a conventional automatic. The down side is they still have is a large weight penalty, along with the potential extra repair costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are changes being carried out to the testing procedure imminently (being made a bit more urgent due to Volkswagon) which should bring in results that are more realistic. I suspect that when the higher fuel consumption for many automatics is officially recognised (with its impact of vehicle taxation) then the popularity of these automatics will decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently in the UK automatics are not uncommon, but not that common or popular. It might be interesting to use Autotrader to compare the number of manual and automatic 2nd hand cars of various models that are for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T11:00:01.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-16T11:01:54.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK at least I can confidently say that we are definitely not seeing a massive shift to automatic transmission on the scale that appears to be happening in the US.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/industry/death-manual-gearbox&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; article quotes a 7.6% shift from manual to automatic in the ten years between 2004 and 2013 (until end October) with just one in four cars sold being an automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This slight increase can probably be explained by the advent of automated manual gearboxes which feature a traditional manual gearbox which is hydraulically operated and computer controlled - systems such as Fiat/Alfa Romeo's TCT or Volkswagen's DSG.  In the UK, any vehicle without a clutch pedal is registered as automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that the average engine size for new vehicles in the UK (source &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/198753/vls-2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) is 1735cc, 1.7 litres or 104 cubic inches.  &quot;Proper&quot; automatic transmissions work very well when attached to a big V6 or V8 engine with lots of power.  Attach them to a 1.0 litre 3-cyl engine with under 60bhp (a typical entry level vehicle in the UK) and they are woefully inadequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd take issue with your statement that the percentage of manual transmission cars has lowered which therefore means production of manual cars will cease soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="15107" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T20:50:30.690" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T20:50:30.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T13:27:59.630" Score="4" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start off with the car specs: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2013 Ford Focus Titanium Navigator 1.6L with about 39k miles on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently checked the oil on the engine and it was on the bottom notch of the dipstick. Therefore I topped it up to pretty much above the middle of the 2 notches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've noticed that it's consuming alot more petrol than it usually does - I'm sure I'll get shot down for this but I'm been gauging it off the &quot;miles to pump&quot; (M2P) reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving to work is 4 miles, usually I'll see the M2P reading go down 5-10 miles for the journey (I understand this goes off of driving style) I put half a tank in on Sunday evening (2 days ago) and it's gone down 70 miles since then. Also usually when I turn the engine on the M2P reading goes up about 10 miles. Now I find it goes down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd issue, I find that in 2nd gear up hill - the car jolts, but it's find in all other gears. Could this be the clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could possibly be the issue? I appreciate its due a service&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15095" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T13:27:59.630" Title="Reason for high petrol useage (Ford Focus Titanium 2013)" Tags="|ford|clutch|focus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26073" CreationDate="2016-02-16T14:07:42.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An additive is added to break up carbon deposits in the engine, the car is driven, the carbon is trapped in the filter and then oil and filter are changed. Unless you gunked up your engine driving in a lot of traffic (for many many km), or skipping oil changes or letting the car sit for months, you could do without.&#xA;The car is yours, you should be able to tell them not to flush and they shouldn’t do it and not charge you for it, although if they are after the money they will get those £3, or more, in another way anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you just bought an old car, a flush is one of the first things you should do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T14:07:42.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26073" CreationDate="2016-02-16T14:37:58.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go somewhere else. It's your car and you shouldn't have to argue over the service you'd like performed. Any place that up-sells products I didn't ask for is always suspect to me. Generally they come off like snake oil salesmen...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T14:37:58.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2016-02-16T15:57:59.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my 2006 Jaguar S-Type.  It turned out to be the bolt that attached the wiper arm to the chassis was very loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15099" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T15:57:59.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26079" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:03:34.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be the case in the US, but in France for example, only a very few minority uses automatic transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually can say I have seen an automatic transmission car only one in my life. And I think in countries like China, India, Russia it may be the same during a long long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15100" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:03:34.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:17:01.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend this solution generally, but I'm providing it here as it's what fixed it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprayed liberal amounts of WD-40 into the area of the mechanism, and eventually the wipers started to move freely.  They've been fine ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is a seemingly obvious solution, but I did try WD-40 initially and it didn't work.  It was only after spraying loads of it in frustration (some time later) that the wipers started to move freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:17:01.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27443" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:53:50.150" Score="5" ViewCount="5387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fiat stilo 1.4(2004) plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had an intermittent issue with the &quot;car security manager loose connection&quot; and the car wouldn't start sometimes, But when shaking the fuse box/power distribution unit just behind the battery the car would start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then got progressively worse up to the point where as if the power distribution unit even gets nudged slightly (like when you set off) the car cuts out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have the AA come out and take a look at it and the fault code they read was &quot;power distribution unit fault&quot;, which leaves me in a bit of a predicament because you can't just buy a spare one as it is programmed to the ecu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means I would have to buy a second hand ecu + power distribution unit off the same car, would there be anything else I would need that is uniquely programmed to the ecu apart from getting the key re-programmed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the power distribution unit in question (ignore the red circles, it's the best picture i could find of it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USwHP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USwHP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;power distribution unit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T16:57:36.117" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T08:16:08.037" Title="Security and engine issues" Tags="|electrical|fiat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:01:59.640" Score="2" ViewCount="2624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 Chevy z71 pickup truck. The engine makes a squealing noise and I noticed the battery gage drops down as well. Replaced the idler pulley already. Battery is new also. The squealing happens when its cold whether accelerating or sitting idle like when you first start it up. Help!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15104" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T23:51:35.247" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T00:07:10.763" Title="Squealing noise and battery gage drops" Tags="|chevrolet|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26127" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:17:55.873" Score="3" ViewCount="11512" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Toyota Tundra v8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This truck overheats with no radiator fluid loss. Also had power loss. Motor shake. Codes came back with a voltage high/low and both oxygen sensors upstream needed replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced O2 sensors precat and now she runs stronger but overheats still. Shake stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now downstream O2 codes triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) can faulty O2 sensors cause overheating by running too lean or rich?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T19:17:39.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T19:49:06.140" Title="Oxygen sensor malfunction" Tags="|engine|toyota|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:18:02.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is perfectly normal and there is nothing wrong with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about what's happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're transitioning the car from an idling engine that's turning with no load on it, to one that's supposed to be turning the wheels. Specifically, it's supposed to be turning the wheels at a rate proportional to the minimum speed of the engine (via whatever gear). It's especially difficult for it to do that when setting off, because the wheels aren't currently turning at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you're adding a lot of resistance to the engine. If you take this to its conclusion, you will stall the engine, which is you reducing the engine speed to below the minimum. As you've no doubt experienced, this makes the car shudder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, you avoid the stall by either adding more fuel to overcome the resistance, or by taking the resistance away, i.e. depressing the clutch. In your case you need to do more of the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, don't try and set off without any throttle. You'll wear the clutch and add load to your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T17:18:02.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26130" CreationDate="2016-02-16T19:22:26.437" Score="17" ViewCount="7803" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of questions on the CAN bus but none (so far as I can tell) that explain why there are several CAN buses in a vehicle. From what I understand many different nodes can be connected to a single CAN bus, so I am not sure why you would need more than one. My only thoughts are that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. there is a fairly small limit to how many nodes can be attached to a single CAN bus. But if that is the case I would imagine there must be some inter-CAN connection so that arbitration and error checking can occur (CAN SPEC 2.0). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- or --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Nodes are prioritized as primary, secondary, and tertiary systems and each level has their own CAN bus and these levels only contain devices that are independent of each other in terms of functionality. I.E. brakes, engine control, exterior lights, locks are on the primary bus. Radio, AC, seat control, are on the secondary bus etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could explain/clarify I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15110" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T19:27:02.270" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:49:40.933" Title="Why are there multiple CAN buses in vehicles?" Tags="|can-bus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T19:32:48.703" Score="6" ViewCount="27543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Toyota Camry SE that has 195,000+ miles that has started to &#xA;develop some serious problems.  Aside from what I believe to be an &#xA;issue with the transmission, the car had been running fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way to the store this morning I had been stuck in traffic.  While idling, I thought I heard a bubbling noise to my right side, and looked in that &#xA;direction to see white smoke seeping out of the hood.  I looked at the dash and observed that the temp was almost all the way to the H. After a few minutes, I took a turn onto open road and I noticed the temperature start to drop again.  I got home, popped the hood in time to see the fluid in the coolant overflow boiling and white smoke (steam?) coming out from the cap thats on the hose running to the reservoir...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling scares me because all my searches have led to a gasket blown...any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - Thanks for all the informative answers in such a short time!  It seems that the problem is a leak somewhere in the cooling system.  I did as you all suggested (checked the electrical fans, coolant level, debris in radiator etc) and ended up seeing a small puddle of fluid underneath the car which wasn't there prior to starting it up...makes sense because the cooling system is pressurized?  But what I don't understand is why the coolant reservoir is still full... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="15111" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T18:55:17.733" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T19:00:48.593" Title="Coolant boiling and smoke coming out of engine bay" Tags="|engine|toyota|cooling-system|camry|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26123" CreationDate="2016-02-16T19:40:41.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad O2 sensors &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; contribute extra heat to the system, but &lt;strong&gt;usually&lt;/strong&gt; they have the opposite effect.  When the ECU detects that the sensors are faulty, the engine will default to open-loop mode, which should cause a properly functioning engine to run a rich A/F ratio.  This actually has the effect of cooling the combustion charge and removing more heat from the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that bank 1's plugs are white confirms your overheat condition and/or indicates a lean A/F ratio.  The fact that you are getting voltage high/low error codes leads me to believe that you may not be able to trust your electronics until the source of that error is corrected, as the ECU may be having problems reading the correct/expected input from the sensors.  I would suspect the alternator's voltage regulator.  If overvoltage is occurring, it may actually be &lt;em&gt;causing&lt;/em&gt; your O2 sensors to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: When an engine is hot, the radiator hoses will always be &quot;hard and hot.&quot;  The system gets pressurized (by design) as water under added pressure boils at a hotter temperature than water at atmospheric pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT #2: Even an engine that &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; running lean will not usually cause the engine to overheat (on the coolant temp. gauge) &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; the cooling system is functioning correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15109" LastEditorUserId="15109" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T19:49:06.140" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T19:49:06.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26131" CreationDate="2016-02-16T19:56:00.557" Score="8" ViewCount="63321" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I recently tried to investigate why his dad's '98 Pajero wasn't starting after heavy rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After establishing that the starter relay was fine, I was hoping that tapping the starter with a hammer would help revive the starter, but it refused to turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His dad ultimately had to call in a mechanic, who used a screwdriver to somehow jolt the starter to life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the screwdriver was used to jump the solenoid, but I want to know what to look out for. There appear to be more than just two terminals on a solenoid. A picture with annotations would be much appreciated here, along with instructions for how to jump a solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T23:22:15.263" Title="How can I jump the solenoid in a starter?" Tags="|starter|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26125" CreationDate="2016-02-16T20:03:00.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When talking specifically about CAN the answer is none of the above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a CAN system the nodes do not talk directly to each other, instead the system is message based. Every message has a priority based on its address and that determines who gets to talk. Who ever has the priority message transmits the message to all and who ever needs it reads it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some limits to how many nodes can be had but that limit is electrical and not a function of the actual bus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that high speed CAN is very complicated electrically due to its speed. (I can go on about transmission lines, signal integrity, stubs and termination but this is way beyond what this answer needs) This makes the design complicated and the modules that use it more expensive. Further not everything needs the break neck speed of high speed CAN. The CAN bus system is usually broken down into three buses, low speed, medium speed and high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High speed CAN connects all the important systems. Engine, ABS, Air Bag, Transmission, Body. The Body computer then serves as the gateway between the other buses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium speed CAN is usually used for car functions like exterior lighting, power locks, power mirrors etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low speed CAN picks up the rest of the non critical systems. These can include interior lighting, entertainment etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned previously the CAN bus uses message addresses instead of node addresses. For example, vehicle speed would be a message. This message gets transmitted by the ABS unit and has a fairly high priority. The Engine, Air Bag, Transmission and Body are all interested in the message and read it in. After receiving the message the Body retransmits the message over the other buses. The lower speed buses usually don't need updates as frequent as the highs speed bus so the Body only updates them occasionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a module needs information that is not commonly transmitted a module can request information. The design of the bus is such that when data is requested the module that has the information only knows that the information is needed and not who needs the information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gateway does not have to be the Body, it could be the Instrument Cluster or some other computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T20:09:16.320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T20:09:16.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26125" CreationDate="2016-02-16T20:15:06.717" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CAN buses are primarily separate to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manage congestion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce regulatory concerns over safety-critical systems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exert more control over who can access the various buses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple vehicles will have two CAN buses, one for the engine and safety systems, and one for body controls (lighting, user experience, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complex vehicles will have a separate bus for systems affecting vehicle motion, for instance radar assisted cruise control, parking systems, lane guidance, etc, as well as additional systems for user features beyond simple body controls, such as in vehicle entertainment systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the buses &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be shared, there are a few reasons not to do so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Congestion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even high speed CAN buses don't have unlimited badnwidth, and in fact compared to modern communications systems they are very slow. However there is still a lot of data they must carry, and most of it is time critical, so maintaining a low utilization allows messages to be delivered more quickly (fewer collisions) which means that real-time messages arrive on time, rather than late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Testing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety critical systems are often separate from other systems so that testing is reduced.  All the devices attached to the safety critical bus must have a higher standard of operation and therefore testing in order to be certain they won't cause a problem on a safety critical bus. With a separate body bus you can have slightly lower standards since an outage won't cause a safety issue, therefore testing is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than combining everything on one bus and making sure everything is up to the higher standards, separate buses allow the designers to segment the bus and reduce costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Industry regulations are difficult, particularly since throttle issues and other drive-by-wire problems the industry has experienced in the past.  By keeping critical systems separate from non critical systems, finding out what went wrong after the fact, and resolving it becomes much easier, as well as less likely since there are fewer devices that could interfere with the correct operation of the safety system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Control&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once modders found that they could alter the engine management and other computers through a single interface, vehicle manufacturers have worked to separate the diagnostic connector and its bus from the rest of the vehicle buses, and use a gateway to pass only those messages that they permit user and garage access to.  They do usually have additional features permitting their own technician access, and many even add another bus to the diagnostic connector, but without publishing message details, so they can have higher speed access while still maintaining backwards compatibility with diagnostic emissions regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separating the buses, however, allows them to exert a little more control over who has easy access to the onboard computers using the simple diagnostics connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional Complexity&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complexity introduced by additional buses is handled by a gateway controller.  In some vehicles this is the body controller, and often has other bus connections, such as LIN.  This passes messages between buses so that when a diagnostic device is connected, for instance, the device can access all the relevant diagnostic information throughout the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T20:15:06.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26128" CreationDate="2016-02-16T20:53:21.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically I've only seen three posts on the starter solenoid. The thickest one is for power from the battery. There is also a much small one which is for ignition switch (S). The last one is for a coil pack (R). Typically the starter solenoid is self grounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When jumping you simply make a connection between the B and S. This activates the solenoid and energizes the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3M38.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3M38.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;starter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14262" LastEditorUserId="14262" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T23:22:15.263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T23:22:15.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6669" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:33:34.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 92 Civic VX fan was intermittently noisy. Removed it and discovered it was 1/3 full of leaves. Cleaned it and works like new. Took 15 minutes (would have been half that time if I was as limber as I was 30 years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15113" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T21:33:34.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26126" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:42:59.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On Symptoms...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boiling and smoke are a result of the high temperature due to a cooling system malfunction. The fact that your temperature dropped again is indicative that the system works &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;. The question is, why didn't it work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Root Cause...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you really want to understand is why the cooling system overheated in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Was the system simply low on coolant? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a problem with the fans, and by moving, you were cooling things off by forcing air to move past the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the water pump failing, and there's no coolant/not enough coolant flowing through the pipes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @JPhi1618 mentioned, you can visually watch to see if the fans come on, once the system gets up to temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the coolant level goes, inspect your reservoir. If low, you should fill it to full. That may not be the actual cause, since as you said, some has boiled off already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the water pump, this is the most difficult to troubleshoot. It would probably present as a lack of heat in the cabin, or very low temperature heat. The coolant isn't flowing, after all, and that's what provides heat. Water pumps are prone to go out periodically, especially factory ones made of plastic: the fins physically dissolve. The other way that water pumps fail is in the seal; this manifests as a whole lot of coolant on the ground under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But why does it sometimes work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there's JUST ENOUGH coolant in there that the increased RPMs of moving cause JUST ENOUGH flow to cool things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the fins are very worn down, to the point of not being effective unless spinning at increased RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why was it coming out of the thermostat?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure has to release somewhere, and usually that's the path of least resistance. I've seen coolant vent at the reservoir before, but it looks like you probably have blown the gasket on the thermostat. That's cheap to replace... and usually pretty easy. A new gasket is usually less than US $10.00. Hopefully that's the limit of the damage, since the car was operating way above nominal temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per @Ben, &quot;When Toyota water pumps go bad they make a lot of noise -&gt; bearing failure. They very rarely have any other causes of failure.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T13:42:25.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:42:25.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2016-02-16T22:14:33.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as damaging the springs by raising the wipers, I think your all wrong. Your not stretching the spring beyond its limit, or you would ruin it the first time you changed blades. It would take years of leaving them up before you would even notice the slightest difference in the pressure of the blade against the windshield,Even when the blades are down, the springs are stretched.maybe we should jack up our vehicles every time we park to take the pressure off the suspension springs,or leave our garage doors open all the time so we don't stretch their springs.springs are made to handle this.&#xA; Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15114" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T22:14:33.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T23:37:18.467" Score="10" ViewCount="4569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does video from the backup camera or side mirror camera travel to the (NAV) display via the CAN bus or some other mechanism?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really curious if you can get access in some way to that video - or replace it.  (E.g., grab it from the bus and put it on your own display with your own overlays.  Or replace it with a stream from a different camera.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I should have made this clear originally:  I'm speaking of video from manufacturer standard equipment (the backup camera and side mirror camera are standard features of the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12921" LastEditorUserId="12921" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T16:45:18.297" LastActivityDate="2020-03-12T22:44:21.073" Title="How is video transmitted in the car? (E.g., from backup camera to NAV display.)" Tags="|can-bus|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26067" CreationDate="2016-02-16T23:59:51.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's pick one example of a component that doesn't feature in the inspection* , but is worth servicing at the recommended intervals. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt_(camshaft)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The timing belt&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the belt which drives the camshaft, which in turn opens the valves on the engine's cylinders at the right time. If this component fails, the pistons will collide with the valves and the entire engine will be wrecked, so it is vitally important that it is changed at the manufacturer's recomended intervals. When buying a used car, one should always check when this component was changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ONLY test for the engine on the British MOT inspection is emissions. A worn timing belt will not affect these in any way, right up until it fails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not changing / topping up the oil probably wouldn't affect the emissions, but it might. Particles in the oil could increase the wear on the piston rings, and eventually the engine will then start burning oil that got past the piston rings (blue smoke in the exhaust.) Failing to change spark plugs probably would affect emissions quicker though (as well as reducing the lifetime of the engine.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remaining tests on the MOT inspection are all to do with safety. The government only cares that your car is safe and has reasonably low emissions. AFAIK there are no tests on the gearbox at all, and I've always thought it would be interesting to present a car without a gearbox for the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For items not in the inspection, deciding to get them serviced or not is entirely up to you. If the car is new, you will want to stick to the recommended service intervals to avoid invalidating the warranty. If it's just out of warranty, you'll probably still want to change the oil at the recommended intervals to conserve engine life. The garage will probably continue to suggest that you keep up the manufacturer's servicing intervals. Although this may be more in their interest than yours in some cases, I don't think it qualifies as a &quot;scam.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the car is 15 years old, its value may be so low that it's only worth servicing the things required by law. It's still worth checking yourself that all the oils and fluids are topped up though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*the inspection is still known colloquially as the &quot;MOT&quot; in the UK, though it is no longer administered by the MOT but rather by the VOSA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="11767" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T01:10:47.283" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:10:47.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26121" CreationDate="2016-02-17T00:07:10.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like others have said, it's your belt which is squealing. There are two possible reasons for this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your belt is worn out and needs to be replaced. The only way you can tell for sure on a serpentine belt is to use a measuring device. I've only &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; seen one once. It measures the depth of the grove for wear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tensioner pulley is worn out ... well, to put it exactly, the spring inside the tensioner pulley housing is worn out. This would require the entire assembly replaced. You could possibly replace just the housing, but most will come with the pulley already attached. There should be a gauge between the swing arm and the mounting location to show you where it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be at if working correctly and providing the right amount of tension. It should be right on top, IIRC. You may also see the tensioner flexing &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; when under load (like when you rev the engine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While putting belt dressing on the belt will help, it is only a stop gap measure. The dressing will wear off after a while and you'll be back to square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T00:07:10.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T00:08:03.257" Score="8" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 1988 foxbody and I'm currently working on restoring it and then maybe in the future do some engine improvements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had many people tell me to avoid this, as my car isn't going to be used for drifting or racing. I feel that there would still be benefits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would a Strut bar in the engine bay be a good investment to improve handling and increase performance?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15117" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T23:21:55.650" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:43:57.200" Title="Does an Engine Strut Bar have any effect on performance?" Tags="|ford|performance|mustang|old-cars|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:06:30.787" Score="6" ViewCount="30702" Body="&lt;p&gt;The windshield fluid stops coming out of the nozzle in cold weather, leading me to suspect the fluid is freezing somewhere. I checked the tank and its full (and liquid). Also, liquid starts coming back out after the temperature warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought having the car running for a while would help heat it up, but I haven't gotten it to work. Are there other ways to unfreeze / unclog the nozzles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T11:53:44.860" Title="How can you unfreeze frozen windshield fluid?" Tags="|honda|civic|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T03:13:30.770" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lifting up your wipers prevent them from sticking to the windshield in freezing weather. However, is it safe to do so? I'm concerned the wipers might get frozen / stuck while they are upright, causing even more problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T03:13:30.770" Title="Is it safe to lift up your wipers in cold weather?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-17T11:29:35.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26150" CreationDate="2016-02-17T05:42:20.673" Score="3" ViewCount="6142" Body="&lt;p&gt;With enough time and skill sets, could a modern car be modded enough to work without microprocessors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having machining skills and a fitted workshop, without buying a new motor block or transmission. Through modding of its parts or machining new ones. Discrete electronics could be used (to build multibrivators and control some logic or power output stages) but no microprocessors or very integrated systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say an EMP destroyed all microelectronics in a community and people have already depleted the stock and spare parts of old cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15121" LastEditorUserId="15121" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T05:57:36.670" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T09:01:36.783" Title="Could a modern car be modded enough to work without ECUs?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|modification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26143" CreationDate="2016-02-17T06:48:04.817" Score="5" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to replace the struts on one of my vehicles using a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amprotools.net/Product_List.aspx?productid=754&amp;amp;partnerid=32&amp;amp;categoryid=5&amp;amp;mode=show&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ampro T70570 coil spring compressors&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKE2J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKE2J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had vaguely remembered reading somewhere that it's a good idea to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atoolshed.com/instruct/1218r.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oil the threads&lt;/a&gt;, and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/9d/9d6be698-cb34-46b6-9b88-4c0e11824b14.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more than one reference&lt;/a&gt; to doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before each use inspect, clean and lubricate threads on threaded shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lubricate threads on spring compressor with engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use any oil, like WD-40 or a moly grease, or does it really need to be specifically engine oil?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why do the threads need to be lubricated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My particular tool did not come with any instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T08:46:22.680" Title="Lubricating Spring Compresor Threads" Tags="|tools|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26142" CreationDate="2016-02-17T08:19:44.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason to lubricate the threads on the coil spring compressor, is to make it a lot easier to turn the screw by hand, since there will be a lot of pressure on the threads.  The lubrication will no doubt stop wear on the threads, but in the end, it makes it easier for you to tighten the tool.  This will also be the reason for ensuring that the threads are clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a thin oil, but not as thin as WD40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try it without lubrication and then add some to see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T08:46:22.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T08:46:22.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26138" CreationDate="2016-02-17T08:21:35.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question and answer from @BobCross is very illuminating and may help you in your decision making process. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/110/does-a-strut-tower-bar-have-any-useful-effect-on-chassis-stiffness-for-a-car-wit&quot;&gt;Have a look.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T08:21:35.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26155" CreationDate="2016-02-17T09:26:17.377" Score="3" ViewCount="2333" Body="&lt;p&gt;So over the weekend when I tried starting my car up with the fuel running from reserve (I know, times are tough), it didn't crank. We tried kick starting it, nothing. My neighbour went to get some fuel, we tried kicking it a couple more times, still nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then my neighbour pumped the fuel pedal a couple times, we tried another time and it started. Since then the car's been idling on a very low rev (just above zero). I did get enough fuel since then to put my tank above Empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways; since that day, every time I started the car it would crank for a  long time before actually starting and then this morning, it just cranked and cranked and cranked... I pumped the fuel pedal as my neighbour did, but nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what could the problem be? it can't be the fuel pump, cos it drives fine when It's on the road. what can I check between the engine cranking over and the fuel going through. what are the points I can check myself to get the car to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Please note my car was originally a D15Z4, but that engine seized and I swapped it out for a lower mileage imported D16A (not using VTEC, cos I kept the original ECU and the PBB ECU it came out with wasn't imported to South Africa, so VTEC never kicks in... I know (_,,) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="4418" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T12:56:57.223" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T12:56:57.223" Title="Honda civic '97 crank, no start. Once started, drives fine" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26139" CreationDate="2016-02-17T09:50:02.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only solution to defrosting the fluid in your washers is temperature. Typically it is easy to warm up the washer bottle and pipes, as they are under the bonnet and the engine provides warmth, but the main problem is the jets (which is why some manufacturers provide heated washer jets as an option)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing as much ice or snow from around them helps, but you really just need to be able to warm them above the freezing point. In my car, the jet for the driver's side is directly above the turbo, so defrosting it is rapid. The one on the other side is trickier - it usually requires quite a few minutes of hard driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should be doing, however, is using winter washer fluid - this has a much lower freezing point so will be fine through the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a quick comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;summer washer fluid is typically good down to around 0C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;winter washer fluids in Canada are rated to -49C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;standard winter washer fluids in Scotland seem to go down to around -15&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T10:20:57.923" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:20:57.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26139" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:00:43.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Screenwash is water based, and it's adding alcohol that stops it freezing - which is something you do need to do, otherwise it'd freeze in the tank and potentially burst it, as well as being no use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when the liquid gets to the jet end of the system, and is exposed to the air, the alcohol evaporates, and the remaining water freezes. Therefore there's little you can do in very cold temperatures other than heat the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try and route the jet hoses around something hot in the engine bay, possibly by buying extended hoses and producing a DIY replacement. Also you could see if heated jets are available for any variant of your car, either higher specification of the same model or another model that uses the same jet part. Then you could potentially retrofit those, depending on the prerequisites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15107" LastEditorUserId="15107" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T10:09:56.050" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:09:56.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26139" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:07:38.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't try to unclog the nozzles with anything solid. This is a sure way to break them - you may end up washing the windshield of the car behind you. Even dislodging ice from around them could be tricky because it could change their alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clog is caused by ice, my suggestion is to find a heated parking place (like in a shopping mall or supermarket) and leave your car in there for a while (driving in the cold doesn't heat up all of your car, just the passenger compartment and the engine). After they start working again, use up all the liquid you already have and fill up with winter washer liquid. Then give it a few more squirts to push the new one into the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clog is just at the outside of the nozzles, either caused by dirt, or ice, you can pour some mildly hot water on them and see if that helps, and again, if it's cold, use up all the remaining liquid and replace it with winter one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T10:17:22.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:17:22.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26141" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:27:03.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes, it is possible&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Albeit with some trade-offs&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern-day road car is an amalgamation of several sub-systems, and electronics usually have an important role to play in them. The nice thing is that many of these sub-systems were present long before modern-day electronics became commonplace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heart of the beast remains mechanical to this day, but supporting systems like fuel delivery and spark may need to be addressed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace electronic fuel injection with carburetor(s) or K-Jetronic fuel injection for a fully mechanical fuel delivery solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace any spark plug coils with a mechanical distributor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that swapping out an EFI setup for a mechanical solution could leave several sensors redundant, such as MAF, MAP, knock sensors, lambda sensors, CPS, CKPS...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Transmission&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manual transmissions should be fine as the shift logic is embedded in the driver's cranium, but even automatic transmissions that rely on mechanical linkages rather than shift solenoids could be deployed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Battery/Alternator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The energy source for alternators will not change (rotating engine). Loss of electronics would imply the loss of voltage regulation, although I imagine that an equivalent voltage regulation function could be enacted with simple electrical components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Throttle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cars today take advantage of electronic throttle control (drive-by-wire), which can be swapped out for a more traditional cable-operated equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Braking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes themselves are mechanical/hydraulic in nature, but you would lose ABS and traction control functionalities if the electronic &quot;brain&quot; behind the ABS module ceases to function.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles make use of electronics to control the amount of torque sent to each wheels via the differential. This could easily be replaced with a mechanical diff.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a few of the key sub-systems involved in a motor vehicle. There are many more ways in which existing electronics could be replaced, each with varying degrees of functionality retention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:27:03.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26141" CreationDate="2016-02-17T11:26:14.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is such a beast known as an analog computer. The computer uses OpAmps to implement complex formulas in an entirely analog fashion. The formulas implemented take input from things like mas air flow, air temperature, coolant temperature, engine rpm and provide output to the fuel injectors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With enough time most if not all systems in a car could be replaced with analog computers without having to resort to converting the systems to all mechanical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kinds of computers are not used in vehicles because they are very temperamental and do not have any kind of redundancy. To change the proverbial program discrete components need replaced in the computer. The computer is temperature sensitive because things like resistors change their value slightly with temperature. If an erroneous reading is taken in by the computer from a malfunctioning sensor it has no way of rationalizing that there is a malfunction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T11:26:14.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26135" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:26:15.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've shopped for a rear-vew camera for my car in the past, and one thing you see time and time-again are standard RCA-style video jacks like the picture below from an AliExpress seller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNbtA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNbtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily find other examples by searching for OEM camera kits for cars that had a camera as an option.  The cameras all have at least a power plug and an RCA video jack.  Many of these cars will already have the wiring in the trunk - they just don't have the actual camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it uses this ubiquitous 2-wire analog video protocol, you can easily intercept, split, or replace the video stream with common, inexpensive video devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, another bit of info you might find interesting - in many of the aftermarket &quot;basic&quot; cameras the parking lines that are displayed are generated in-camera rather than being overlayed by the video display.  Some nicer, OEM units have animated lines that are computer generated in the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:26:15.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26125" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:49:40.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons is nicely summed up in this cartoon from 2003:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijNgp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijNgp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(&quot;New device found: Airbus A310. Start auto configuration? [Start][Cancel]&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar attacks have indeed been reported recently. Having the safety critical components on a separate bus which is only accessible through a well-configured gateway greatly reduces the likelihood of inadvertent problems like the one above, and makes hacking much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15122" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:49:40.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26146" CreationDate="2016-02-17T14:52:28.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An engine only needs a few things to run: fuel, air, compression, and spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the engine runs fine once started, I would guess the engine has enough air and spark. A lack of air would cause rough or erratic idle, and lack of spark would stall the engine, or at least cause it to stumble, shake, and generally sound unhealthy. It would also be unlikely that all of the plugs/wires/distributor contacts would fail at once. If there were no other problems and any of the cylinders were getting spark the engine would at least stutter before dying. If the engine sounds completely normal once started, you could also rule out compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't totally rule out the fuel pump, as it will have to work slightly harder with very little fuel in the tank, on top of already having to work extra hard to build pressure in the fuel lines and supply enough fuel to get the engine started. Running with low fuel would also increase the chances that your fuel pump sucked up debris in the fuel tank that could clog the fuel filter. Kinks/leaks in the fuel lines may also prevent the pump from supplying adequate pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, I would inspect the fuel lines that run under the vehicle from the fuel tank to the engine for any damage. If no damage is found I would replace the fuel filter (fairly cheap and easy if you have a good set of metric wrenches and a breaker bar). If all else fails I would replace the pump as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be replacing the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor (all fairly cheap), and the coil pack (relativly expensive). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T15:59:54.957" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T15:59:54.957" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T15:51:55.600" Score="2" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;If memory serves me correctly, repairs / replacements include: all mounts (engine and transmission), torque converter, entire electrical system, harmonic balancer pulley, various sensors, checked for vacuum leaks, timing, frame was checked, and probably more that I don't remember. I've taken the car to various mechanics to no avail. The car has very good power, so I don't think it's a compression issue. I think I know what the usual suspects feel like (misfires, low compression, bad timing, etc.) and it's none of these. It feels like it's a mechanical issue inside the engine itself (or possibly the transmission). Vibrates at idle and all speeds, although it's not as pronounced at higher RPM's (but the vibration is still there). There is noise also... a loud low frequency &quot;hum&quot; (for lack of a better term) at lower RPM's which attenuates somewhat as the RPM's are increased. The &quot;hum&quot; is loud to the point that I sometimes wear ear protectors while driving. Would very much appreciate your help. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15130" LastEditorUserId="15130" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T19:25:56.593" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:25:56.593" Title="After many repairs engine still vibrates (1995 Ford Probe, 4-cylinder, automatic)" Tags="|engine|vibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25787" CreationDate="2016-02-17T18:23:42.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really understand but the jerking seems to have been fixed up to 90% after I changed the gear oil. For more details, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25788/weird-grinding-sound-from-the-gear-box/25829#25829&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:02:44.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26166" CreationDate="2016-02-17T18:59:34.587" Score="3" ViewCount="3473" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got a 2002 Toyota Camry LE, the trunk won't open. We've tried the key fob button, the release in the front of the car by the driver side seat, the Emergency pull handle inside the trunk itself and still nothing. Also the key has been tried in the lock on the trunk lid, turning it to the right only bends the key, rather then actually turning to unlock the trunk. Now turning it to the left is for the valet lock, because it has no button in the glove box due to it being an older model, therefore the valet lock isn't the problem. We have tried all the options, except climbing into the trunk, taking off the liner from the inside and accessing the latch. Now once we get said liner off, do we unbolt the latch piece from the trunk lid or is there another way to unlock the latch without disassembling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15133" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T22:05:31.223" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:08:00.000" Title="2002 Toyota Camry LE trunk lid will not open" Tags="|toyota|camry|trunk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T19:04:57.527" Score="7" ViewCount="21801" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Toyota Prius is throwing code P0420 and I used a cheap OBD-II reader with Torque App on Android to check if my O2 sensors are working or not. I tried the maintenance mode to just run the engine but it failed to show any reading, so I drove the car on a freeway at constant 65 mph and took screenshots during the drive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rtg4B.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUFW6.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put the other graphs just to make sure that the sensors would not be displayed in another bank. It appears that the sensor closer to the engine (O2 1x1) is showing nothing where it should have had a reading. When I stopped the car it briefly showed some readings but I could no catch them. The sensors after the catalytic converter looks like is varying very swiftly, which could indicate a bad catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those readings reliable enough to decide to replace the upstream sensor? I'm not sure if the lack of reading is because of a problem in the sensor or in the Torque App/Bluetooth reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car for another ride today and the O2 1x1 sensor provided some reading, although it was a constant reading, which is inconsistent with a working upstream O2 sensor (should vary right?). Interestingly the O2 1x4 gauge also provided a reading too, I didn't know I had one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o44bT.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wryv.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:04:00.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:04:00.953" Title="Is Torque App reliable to read O2 sensor data?" Tags="|obd-ii|o2-sensor|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T19:46:34.117" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm driving in cold weather, the headlights (which turn on automatically) go out.  I can turn them on with the manual switch.  Which relay or fuse does controls this? Does anyone have a number or place to look to quicken my search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15134" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T22:02:05.110" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:42:51.517" Title="98 Olds Intrigue headlights turn off when driving turn back on by using switch" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|headlight|oldsmobile|intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T19:48:43.397" Score="6" ViewCount="19415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent, and the check engine light is on. I'm almost 100% sure it's the O2 sensor because it's not as fuel efficient as usual... My work schedule conflicts with mechanics around me, and I do not have time to get a reading on the car. Is there a way I can identify whether it's the upstream or downstream sensor that needs replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15135" LastEditorUserId="15136" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T21:16:51.407" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T16:51:17.043" Title="How to Identify which O2 sensor is faulty WITHOUT readings from the car's system" Tags="|hyundai|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26161" CreationDate="2016-02-17T20:27:55.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This requires a bit of mechanical know-how and some time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An O2 sensor can be tested with a multimeter that measures millivolts.  You'll need to securely attach one lead to the signal wire of the sensor and the other to a good ground on the car.  This all has to stay in place with the car running...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire up the engine and look at the voltage reading of the sensor.  Low (lean) should be around 0.2v and the high side (rich) should be around 0.8v.  Rev the engine repeatedly and see if it fluctuates.  You can also force a lean condition by allowing air past the MAF by unplugging a vacuum hose or just loosening the MAF from its boot or force a rich condition by obstructing the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test both sensors and see if one fails to respond.  If they both stay at the same voltage (report always lean or always rich) then there could be another problem, but if one responds and the other seems out of wack, it's probably the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warning:&lt;/strong&gt;  The exhaust and engine get very hot, very quickly.  Attaching the multimeter to the O2 sensor connector could also be tricky.  If the O2 sensor has 3 wires it's a &quot;heated&quot; O2 sensor, and you need to find which of the three is the signal wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T20:27:55.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26161" CreationDate="2016-02-17T21:15:20.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to review &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/15388/675&quot;&gt;this answer of mine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tests outlined there for heater resistor continuity and response to lean/rich conditions assume a fully functional sensor. If the behavior under testing doesn't match what is outlined there, you know that the sensor has an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T21:15:20.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T21:34:04.790" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I feel some sort of internal feedback coming from gas pedal. It is a really interesting feeling that is hard to explain, almost as if a piece of thick wire is rubbing on the inside of the pedal. It also resembles what those haptic feedback console controllers do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal and what is it anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="14341" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:06:54.437" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:06:54.437" Title="Feedback coming from gas pedal on 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5)" Tags="|audi|pedals|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26158" CreationDate="2016-02-17T23:08:00.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably won't be able to unbolt the latch. But there will be a lever that the release cable connects to as well as a lever that the lock actuator connects to. You're probably going to have to use a flat head screw driver (maybe a hammer) and unjam the lock lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:08:00.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1727" CreationDate="2016-02-17T23:35:27.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owners manual for a 2008 Honda CBR600RR is 1,400 RPM's +/- 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/motorcycle/2009/09_cbr600rr_a.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link to the owners manual.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page number 219&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:35:27.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26160" CreationDate="2016-02-17T23:42:51.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The circuit is fairly complex. But you can probably narrow down your problem to the ambient light sensor on the dash. Or wiring from the body control module to the headlight switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume that the BCM provides 5v to the AL sensor and when it detects light it sends ground to the BCM or vice versa. So when it's cold the contacts in the sensor mistakenly sends a signal to the BCM to kill the lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try checking pins H (yellow/black) and G (light green/black) -AL sensor signal and return- on connector 2 of the BCM. As well as pin D (yellow) -output wire to the BCM- on connector 1 of the BCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:42:51.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26159" CreationDate="2016-02-18T00:13:19.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The upstream o2 on a Prius is an AFR sensor stoich reading at idle is 3.33 volts. The application isn't able to read the correct PID. So of course it would read 0v all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:13:19.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26293" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:13:47.033" Score="5" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out what is the serial protocol that is used in Honda Odyssey 2007  for communication between RES (rear entertainment system) DVD drive and main audio head.&#xA;I was convinced it would be GA-NET (IEBus), but after failing to use a device to decode that bus, I hooked up a scope and was surprised to see that the wires are not differential but rather RX/TX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how they talk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iAQI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exchange&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And this is a closeup of what I believe is somewhat like keep alive response from DVD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7pVt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was really surprised to see this. Baud rate seems to be in between 1200-4800 if my assumption is correct - this lust closeup looks like 3-4 bytes (if this is a 8-bit exchange at all). Or maybe it's LIN and the packet sizes are 11 and 29 bits? I'm very confused, will appreciate help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry about the markup - I'm totally unable to figure it out. When you read help - it looks really simple, but when you try to actually use it - it's total failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15141" LastEditorUserId="15141" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T04:14:43.137" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:28:06.713" Title="Identify serial protocol in Honda Odyssey 2007" Tags="|honda|odyssey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:53:42.550" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's wrong when water doesn't flow from your radiator. I already put a water pump and a thermostat on putits still running hot. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15142" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T09:37:20.377" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T07:45:24.843" Title="No water flow in the radiator - 99 Cadillac STS" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|overheating|cadillac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26176" CreationDate="2016-02-18T05:15:06.667" Score="4" ViewCount="1491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the rear window defogger only work with both side terminals connected? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I observed that one of the terminal of my rear window is broken, so is it that now it wont even defog half of the screen? Or it works only if the other is connected as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T15:19:59.347" Title="Rear Window Defogger with only one terminal" Tags="|defroster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26172" CreationDate="2016-02-18T08:56:08.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no/insufficient coolant flow in the cooling system then there are a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is insufficient coolant in the system (check the coolant level);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's flowing out of the system (probably on the ground);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermostat is stuck closed (it's defective and needs replacement);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump is not doing it's job (it's defective or not connected to a belt);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A part of the cooling system is clogged (radiator or piping);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is air in the cooling system (cause of improper air purging after refilling drained coolant) - thanks to &lt;strong&gt;Tim B&lt;/strong&gt; for reminding about this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T07:45:24.843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T07:45:24.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:21:09.420" Score="16" ViewCount="45122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiberglass is a prominent material for building boats. It's well-tested and durable. Over the years, there have been few attempts to adopt fiberglass as in automotive industry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glasspar_G2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glasspar G2&lt;/a&gt; - a 1950 car with all-fiberglass body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chevrolet Corvette from C1 up to C7&lt;/a&gt; seems to use fiberglass panels in body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple cars from Lotus, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Elite&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elite&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Europa&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Europa&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Elan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Esprit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Espirit&lt;/a&gt; used all-fiberglass bodies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are numerous kit-cars with fiberglass bodies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, while fiberglass body is used in the industry, it isn't widely adopted. &lt;strong&gt;Why? What are the pros and cons and why cons outweight pros?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15148" LastEditorUserId="15148" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T10:18:40.707" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T15:02:12.170" Title="What are the pros and cons of fiberglass body?" Tags="|body|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26173" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:36:13.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear defogger must have two connections. It works off of DC current and needs a positive connection and a negative connection in order for the electrons to flow and create heat. There are some kits out there which might help you to get this fixed, but I've never used them and don't know their voracity. They basically re-link the broken side back into the matrix which provides the continuity for it to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T09:36:13.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26175" CreationDate="2016-02-18T10:34:59.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightweight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not get dents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaks/cracks if bent too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is not as durable as metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can deform with heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T10:34:59.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26175" CreationDate="2016-02-18T10:54:01.870" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main disadvantage of Fibreglass (aka Glass Reinforced Plastic or GRP) is that it cracks and breaks in an impact, rather than deforming and absorbing energy like metal does - so a GRP bodied car would still need an internal crash structure to protect the occupants, removing a lot of the advantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;British Reliant cars (particularly the Scimitar) in the 1970s had GRP bodywork, and many have been scrapped due to rust in the internal roll-over bars - which are bonded into the bodyshell and to very difficult to repair!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most use in more recent times has been for individual panels, particularly non load-bearing ones such as roof panels on vans and trucks - where there is another advantage as an unpainted relatively thin GRP panel is semi-translucent, and so allows light into the load-space, as well as it's light weight lowering the centre of gravity of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T09:47:41.537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T09:47:41.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26126" CreationDate="2016-02-18T11:43:41.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that this happened while sitting in traffic and went away as soon as you got up to speed, I believe the issue is your radiator fan(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you boiled over, check your coolant when the engine has cooled down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the car, let it sit and idle.  Once the temp gauge gets past about 1/2, the fans should kick on.  If it gets up to ~3/4 without the fans kicking on, there is a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible problems:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radiator Fan&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radiator Fan Relay&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Coolant Temperature Sensor&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuse&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wiring &lt;br&gt;&#xA;ECU&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuse is the easiest to check, so start there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the fan by unplugging it and connecting one side to ground, and the other side to the battery with a fusable link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is good, I would look at the relay.  Find the relay.  It should have 4 connections - signal, ground, in (battery voltage) and out (to fan).  Use a test light to verify the 'in' side has voltage, and the 'signal' side gets voltage when the engine gets hot.  If the signal side has voltage, the relay should click when you connect it.  It helps to have a schematic for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the signal is not getting voltage, I would look at the CTS.  You will need to measure the resistance across the pins when the engine is hot to verify it is reading correctly.  If the ECU does not know the engine is hot, it doesn't know to turn on the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T11:43:41.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T12:37:47.443" Score="2" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;driving back from work and this warning light came on.. the car wet into limp mode but then was ok after 1 second. No lights on after that! today the same thing happened driving to work came on for 1 second then went off.. not sure if its a HPFP or turbo issue? anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: BMW 3 series 2011 Efficient Dynamics&#xA;Engine: 2.0 L diesel&#xA;Any behaviors: none car runs smoothly, tested it last night on motorway and had no warnings. Seems to happen on really cold days? and when I dont warm up car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15151" LastEditorUserId="9367" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T12:20:51.813" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T12:20:51.813" Title="BMW 320D 2011 ED - Engine Malfunction Icon" Tags="|engine|bmw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26204" CreationDate="2016-02-18T13:17:04.127" Score="22" ViewCount="7756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would REALLY like to get rid of my spare wheel. The wheel is heavy and I need the spare wheel well for... other purposes. In my history of driving I never had to use the spare wheel, so it cost me a lot over time driving it around as that heavy bugger never gives me any gas money. I would still take it to longer trips, and ones that require a bit of offroading to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed some people leave their spare wheel at home and only hold a tyre repair kit in case of an emergency. And some new cars don't have a spare wheel at all (though I believe that would be for reducing costs rather than convenience). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjPQZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjPQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hl4qN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hl4qN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the repair kits a viable alternative for spare wheels on regular every day driven passenger vehicles? I understand the kits won't help against heavy tyre or any rim damage, but how often does that occur compared to ordinary punctures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All thoughts and experiences are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T15:28:43.693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:09:15.973" Title="Are tyre repair kits a viable alternative for a spare wheel?" Tags="|tires|repair|spare-tire|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26175" CreationDate="2016-02-18T13:29:35.387" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major reason is probably cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel panels need expensive tooling to produce them, but once an investment has been made in that tooling the panels can be produced rapidly and cheaply. Drop in a flat sheet of steel and a few seconds later you have a shaped panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With GRP the tooling is relatively cheap, but it takes a long time to produce a panel from that tooling. The matting needs to be cut to shape then laid out (most likely by hand), with overlapping areas carefully aligned, all of which is a relatively skilled job. Some sections will need the 'grain' of the matting carefully aligning. Resin can then be added. To minimise weight (and keep it fairly consistent) the panel will then needing bagging up to suck out the excess resin while it cures, all of which takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fibre is similar but even more time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are making a few hundred panels then the tooling cost savings of GRP outweigh the high labour costs, but once you get to the thousands the labour costs become uneconomical. Hence GRP bodywork tends to be heavily used for limited production vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect another major consideration now for production vehicles is the ability to recycle GRP panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even in the 1950s Lotus put in to production a car with a GRP monocoque body shell with no separate chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:29:35.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-18T15:13:58.190" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but personally, I wouldn't risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've ever needed my spare was [&lt;em&gt;cue spooky music&lt;/em&gt;] on a dark, stormy night, on a two lane highway through a dense forest. I was doing ~50 mph when I hit a pothole with front passenger tire. The tire didn't go flat immediately, but I could tell something was wrong, and was able to limp another 1/4ish mile to a turnout and swap in my spare. It was miserable, I was soaked to the bone, but I got the tire changed and made it to my destination without significant delay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, I inspected the tire and was unable to find the puncture. Hoping I had just blown out the bead, I began to re-inflate the tire, and got it to ~20 psi when a seam in the sidewall opened up and blew the air back down to ~5 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had I not had been equipped with a spare, I would have been on the side of the highway in a sloped gravel lot, in the freezing rain with my car on scissor jack trying to find that %$&amp;amp;#@#$@ puncture, patch it, only to find that a 3&quot; gash in the sidewall is beyond repair. If it did happen to hold, I'd still be limping down a 50 mph highway with white knuckles waiting for my tire to blow out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T14:09:15.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:09:15.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-18T15:59:06.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having recently had the pleasure of the company of an AA Rescue Patrolman for a couple of hours.  This is after picking up a hole in the sidewall that the can of gloop couldn't seal.  I was on the hard shoulder of the M1 Motorway with 44-tonners hurtling past at 60mph.  I would say keep the spare wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patrolman said that he has to rescue two or three people per day from the motorway who have only the emergency kit and a puncture too severe for it to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, that is a very busy stretch of road, but if that is even close to  the frequency of rescues, then the risk of being stranded is quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:59:06.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26188" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:50:00.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;torque&lt;/strong&gt; is the tendency of a force to rotate an object about an axis, fulcrum, or pivot. Just as a force is a push or a pull, a torque can be thought of as a twist to an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKgBn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKgBn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Relationship between force F, torque τ, linear momentum p, and angular momentum L in a system which has rotation constrained in one plane only (forces and moments due to gravity and friction not considered).&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Relationship between force &lt;em&gt;F&lt;/em&gt;, torque &lt;em&gt;τ&lt;/em&gt;, linear momentum &lt;em&gt;p&lt;/em&gt;, and angular momentum &lt;em&gt;L&lt;/em&gt; in a system which has rotation constrained in one plane only (forces and moments due to gravity and friction not considered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people (e.g. American automotive engineers) use horsepower (imperial mechanical) for power, pound-feet (lbf⋅ft) for torque and RPM for rotational speed. This results in a formula for horsepower:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/92w1Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/92w1Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Horsepower formula.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:33:18.133" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:33:18.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26189" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:50:00.437" Score="0" Body="Measure of the force applied to an object that causes it to rotate." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:33:39.233" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:33:39.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:51:40.643" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they're not. My first flat ever shredded the tire before I could bring the vehicle to a stop. Those things could save you hundreds of dollars but leave you stranded where there is no help when you need it most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15158" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T16:51:40.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26192" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:49:52.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Mustang is an American automobile manufactured by Ford. It was originally based on the platform of the second generation North American Ford Falcon, a compact car. Introduced early on April 17, 1964, and thus dubbed as a &quot;1964½&quot; by Mustang fans, the 1965 Mustang was the automaker's most successful launch since the Model A. The Mustang has undergone several transformations to its current sixth generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mustang created the &quot;pony car&quot; class of American automobiles, sports car like coupes with long hoods and short rear decks, and gave rise to competitors such as the Chevrolet Camaro, Pontiac Firebird, AMC Javelin, Chrysler's revamped Plymouth Barracuda, and the first generation Dodge Challenger. The Mustang is also credited for inspiring the designs of coupés such as the Toyota Celica and Ford Capri, which were imported to the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmi9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmi9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;1964½&amp;quot; Mustang convertible&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;1964½&quot; Mustang convertible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeWqd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeWqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2015 Ford Mustang&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2015 Ford Mustang - Sixth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T17:56:35.723" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:56:35.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26193" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:49:52.530" Score="0" Body="The Mustang is an American automobile manufactured by Ford, which has been in continuous production since march 1964." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:32:11.603" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:32:11.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25938" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:55:55.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend option D) use the brakes as little as possible.  This basically involves getting off the gas as soon as it becomes apparent that you may have to stop (ie, you see brake lights ahead) and letting speed gradually decay due to friction and air resistance.  This might be what you had in mind for option C) if you actually meant taking your foot off the gas at 500m from the stop, coasting for 400m and gradually losing speed so that you would be going much slower when you finally applied the brakes for the final stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sooner you can begin coasting the better.  Said another way, if you know you'll have to stop ahead and you're still holding a steady speed, you're basically wasting gas for the purpose of increasing your brake wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider not using overdrive at lower speeds if your car allows that.  It makes a big difference in my Ford truck, as locking out overdrive also makes the ECU much more aggressive about engine braking and cutting fuel to the injectors (based on looking at throttle position and fuel flow on a ScanGauge), which means less wear on the brakes.  My wife's car (also a Ford) is already pretty aggressive about cutting fuel and downshifting as the car slows, so there's no real benefit to locking out overdrive there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:55:55.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26195" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T18:12:01.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chevrolet Malibu is a mid-size car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet from 1964 to 1983 and since 1997. The Malibu began as a trim level of the Chevrolet Chevelle, becoming its own model line in 1978. Originally a rear wheel drive intermediate, GM revived the Malibu nameplate as a front-wheel-drive car in 1997.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Named after the city of Malibu, California, the Malibu was marketed primarily in North America, with the eighth generation marketed globally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9IXp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9IXp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1965 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu convertible&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1965 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu convertible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr9hx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr9hx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2016 Chevrolet Malibu&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2016 Chevrolet Malibu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:20:29.733" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:20:29.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26196" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T18:12:01.447" Score="0" Body="The Malibu is an American automobile manufactured by Chevrolet from 1964 to 1983 and since 1997." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:31:52.583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:31:52.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6041" CreationDate="2016-02-18T18:29:21.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years back, I saw a show where they installed flame throwers on a car.  They used a system that would kill the spark on the engine (can't remember if they killed spark entirely, switched on/off, half the cylinders, etc.) sending raw air fuel mixture through the exhaust, then ignite it with a coil and spark plug in the exhaust.  Might be able to rig something up with a relay to send the coil signal to the engine coil (normally) or tail pile coil(for flames).  Rev it up and hit the button, when the RPMs drop, release, let it rev up again and hit it again.  This would require the least amount of modification, as you would not need a secondary fuel supply, pump, nozzle, valve.  Running unburnt fuel through your exhaust isn't great, but shouldn't be a big deal overall.  Might want to change the oil a bit more often.  Also, this will not work of you have a cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm writing this, I'm thinking there is going to be a perfect air fuel mixture through your entire exhaust system, so I'm not sure what kept the entire thing from exploding... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:29:21.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:04:17.403" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Subaru Forester 2003 runs fine until I go up steep inclines when it starts to loose power and goes into &quot;limp mode&quot; (ie shut down). I can restart it okay but the same thing happens after a while and especially if I give it too much acceleration up hill. I have had all 4 spark plugs replaced last week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it possibly be please? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot oil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark leads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. I'd really appreciate it&#xA;Helen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:09:56.463" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:09:56.463" Title="&quot;Missing&quot; motor" Tags="|subaru|power|forester|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26199" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:20:22.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, automotive oxygen sensors, colloquially known as O2 sensors, make modern electronic fuel injection and emission control possible. They help determine, in real time, if the air–fuel ratio of a combustion engine is rich or lean. Since oxygen sensors are located in the exhaust stream, they do not directly measure the air or the fuel entering the engine but when information from oxygen sensors is coupled with information from other sources, it can be used to indirectly determine the air-fuel ratio. Closed loop feedback-controlled fuel injection varies the fuel injector output according to real-time sensor data rather than operating with a predetermined (open-loop) fuel map. In addition to enabling electronic fuel injection to work efficiently, this emissions control technique can reduce the amounts of both unburnt fuel and oxides of nitrogen entering the atmosphere. Unburnt fuel is pollution in the form of air-borne hydrocarbons, while oxides of nitrogen (NOx gases) are a result of combustion chamber temperatures exceeding 1,300 kelvin due to excess air in the fuel mixture and contribute to smog and acid rain. Volvo was the first automobile manufacturer to employ this technology in the late 1970s, along with the three-way catalyst used in the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/enBnD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/enBnD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A three-wire oxygen sensor suitable for use in a Volvo 240 or similar vehicle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A three-wire oxygen sensor suitable for use in a Volvo 240 or similar vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor does not actually measure oxygen concentration in the exhaust, It produces a voltage when excess fuel in the exhaust stream requires oxygen to complete the combustion process.A rich mixture causes an oxygen demand as the excess fuel burns on the sensor exhaust side electrode. This demand causes a voltage to build up, due to transportation of oxygen ions through the sensor layer. Lean mixture results in a low voltage, since there is an oxygen excess and none is transported across the sensors solid electrolyte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern spark-ignited combustion engines use oxygen sensors and catalytic converters in order to reduce exhaust emissions. Information on oxygen concentration is sent to the engine management computer or engine control unit (ECU), which adjusts the amount of fuel injected into the engine to compensate for excess air or excess fuel. The ECU attempts to maintain, on average, a certain air–fuel ratio by interpreting the information it gains from the oxygen sensor. The primary goal is a compromise between power, fuel economy, and emissions, and in most cases is achieved by an air-fuel ratio close to stoichiometric. For spark-ignition engines (such as those that burn gasoline or LPG, as opposed to diesel), the three types of emissions modern systems are concerned with are: hydrocarbons (which are released when the fuel is not burnt completely, such as when misfiring or running rich), carbon monoxide (which is the result of running slightly rich) and NOx (which dominate when the mixture is lean). Failure of these sensors, either through normal aging, the use of leaded fuels, or fuel contaminated with silicones or silicates, for example, can lead to damage of an automobile's catalytic converter and expensive repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tampering with or modifying the signal that the oxygen sensor sends to the engine computer can be detrimental to emissions control and can even damage the vehicle. When the engine is under low-load conditions (such as when accelerating very gently, or maintaining a constant speed), it is operating in &quot;closed-loop mode&quot;. This refers to a feedback loop between the ECU and the oxygen sensor(s) in which the ECU adjusts the quantity of fuel and expects to see a resulting change in the response of the oxygen sensor. This loop forces the engine to operate both slightly lean and slightly rich on successive loops, as it attempts to maintain a mostly stoichiometric ratio on average. If modifications cause the engine to run moderately lean, there will be a slight increase in fuel economy, sometimes at the expense of increased NOx emissions, much higher exhaust gas temperatures, and sometimes a slight increase in power that can quickly turn into misfires and a drastic loss of power, as well as potential engine damage, at ultra-lean air-fuel ratios. If modifications cause the engine to run rich, then there will be a slight increase in power to a point (after which the engine starts flooding from too much unburned fuel), but at the cost of decreased fuel economy, and an increase in unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust which causes overheating of the catalytic converter. Prolonged operation at rich mixtures can cause catastrophic failure of the catalytic converter (see backfire). The ECU also controls the spark engine timing along with the fuel injector pulse width, so modifications which alter the engine to operate either too lean or too rich may result in inefficient fuel consumption whenever fuel is ignited too soon or too late in the combustion cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an internal combustion engine is under high load (e.g. wide open throttle), the output of the oxygen sensor is ignored, and the ECU automatically enriches the mixture to protect the engine, as misfires under load are much more likely to cause damage. This is referred to as an engine running in 'open-loop mode'. Any changes in the sensor output will be ignored in this state. In many cars (with the exception of some turbocharged models), inputs from the air flow meter are also ignored, as they might otherwise lower engine performance due to the mixture being too rich or too lean, and increase the risk of engine damage due to detonation if the mixture is too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:51:29.597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:51:29.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26200" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:20:22.597" Score="0" Body="Questions and discussions about oxygen (O2) sensors. Oxygen sensors are used to measure the exhaust gas concentration of oxygen for internal combustion engines in automobiles and other vehicles." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T21:12:36.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:12:36.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26201" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:30:17.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throttle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, in gasoline engines, the throttle is the part of the air intake system that controls the amount of air flowing into the engine – usually in response to driver accelerator pedal input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fuel injected engines the &lt;em&gt;throttle body&lt;/em&gt; is usually located between the air filter box and the intake manifold, and it is usually attached to, or near, the mass airflow sensor. In carbureted engines, the throttle mechanism is usually incorporated into the carburetor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest piece inside the throttle body is the throttle plate, which is a butterfly valve that regulates the airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many cars, the accelerator pedal motion is communicated via the throttle cable, to activate the throttle linkages, which move the throttle plate. In cars with electronic throttle control (also known as &quot;drive-by-wire&quot;), an electric motor controls the throttle linkages and the accelerator pedal connects not to the throttle body, but to a sensor, which sends the pedal position to the Engine Control Unit (ECU). The ECU determines the throttle opening based on accelerator pedal position and inputs from other engine sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wpkrc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wpkrc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle body showing throttle position sensor. The throttle cable attaches to the curved, black portion on the left. The copper-coloured coil visible next to this returns the throttle to its idle (closed) position when the pedal is released.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Throttle body showing throttle position sensor. The throttle cable attaches to the curved, black portion on the left. The copper-coloured coil visible next to this returns the throttle to its idle (closed) position when the pedal is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the driver presses on the accelerator pedal, the throttle plate rotates within the throttle body, opening the throttle passage to allow more air into the intake manifold. Usually an airflow sensor measures this change and communicates with the ECU. The ECU then increases the amount of fuel being sent to the fuel injectors in order to obtain the desired air-fuel ratio. Often a throttle position sensor (TPS) is connected to the shaft of the throttle plate to provide the ECU with information on whether the throttle is in the idle position, wide-open throttle (WOT) position, or somewhere in between these extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T21:59:31.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:59:31.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26202" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T19:30:17.700" Score="0" Body="Questions and discussions about a throttle. The throttle is a valve that controls the amount of air that is allowed to pass into a gasoline engine (diesel engines do not have a throttle in this sense)." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T22:01:00.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T22:01:00.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:03:00.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Mini Cooper S that didn't come with a spare tire, the battery was relocated by the factory to the trunk to make room for the supercharger.  It did originally came with run flat tires, but like many others I choose to run conventional tires.  Hence I carry a homemade kit similar to this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fine for small punctures from a nail, but wouldn't help with blowouts on the highway.  I haven't had any with this car, but have with other cars. I'd prefer a spare wheel, but it's not really an option in my case.  Based on 30+ years of driving, I'd guess that 75% of the time you'd be okay with the patch kit.  It's sort of up to you to weigh the pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T20:03:00.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:12:37.133" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you carry a toolset, lights, spare belts and hoses, and OBD-II decoder and electrical patch cables?  If not, then you're not taking on much more risk by leaving the spare at home, provided&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you keep an eye on tire pressure,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you drive on ordinary roads, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your tires are nowhere near their end of life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spare tires are common because, for most of the 20th century, a flat tire was one of the most likely maintenance issues to arise while on a trip.  Tire technology improved considerably in the 1980s and 1990s, and flat tires became much rarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auto manufacturers realize this.  Customers raised in the 20th century would howl in protest if automakers eliminated spare tires completely, but they have saved weight and space by switching to &quot;limited use&quot; spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, tire problems account for only about &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.selectbenefits.net/AUTOSAVE/Top-Reasons.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;10% of breakdowns&lt;/a&gt;.  Of those, about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aaafoundation.org/sites/default/files/tss.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3/4 are punctures&lt;/a&gt;, many of which a tire repair kit could handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the modern era, especially with the advent of cell phones, neither the absolute nor the relative probability of getting a flat tire warrants devoting all that space and fuel to &lt;em&gt;lugging around&lt;/em&gt; a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15165" LastEditorUserId="15165" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T14:52:34.707" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:52:34.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26208" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:47:04.147" Score="0" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughters 99 Ford Taurus recently started having steering issues. Noticed it on a recent ice covered road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the issue: you go down the road &amp;amp; sometimes the driver side front wheel is pointing to the left while the passenger side front wheel is pointing to the right. Then the next thing you know, the driver side is pointing right &amp;amp; pass side is pointing left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the cv shaft on passenger side was bad so I changed it. The problem still persisted after I changed the shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what the issue could be? I should also add that I believe she may have hit a curb at a pretty good speed (although she denies hitting anything) judging from the big dent in the steel rim on the passenger side front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15166" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T21:49:43.197" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T22:07:35.347" Title="STEERING ISSUE 99 TAURUS" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26205" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:57:35.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steering rack connects to the front wheels through inner and outer tie rods. The inner tie rods thread into the steering rack, and the outer tie rod connects the inner tie rod to the wheel. If one or both of the tie rods are broken or stripped, you will have no control over the steering for that wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the wheel off you should see a threaded rod behind the axle that connects to the wheel carrier on the inside of the brake disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T20:57:35.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26205" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:00:16.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jack up the front end and feel/look for any damaged suspension parts - tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, sway bar linkage.  Turn the wheel and see if the wheels move together.  Verify that rim is straight, I would bet its not.  Replace anything broken, and get an alignment done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:00:16.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26205" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:27:16.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen these symptoms caused by a snapped rack in the steering rack.  if this is the case with your car, it is very dangerous and the car shouldn't be driven until the rack is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your keys in the ignition to turn the steering lock off then jack one wheel up at a time and try to 'steer' that tire with your hands.  You should be able to see the movement of the track rod that comes out of the end of the steering rack.  One wheel will probably steer without the steering wheel moving, whereas the other wheel will move the steering wheel at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't really anything else in the steering components that could be broken and allow the play that you are talking about and yet move both wheels when they are both jacked up and without it being visible from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likely reason that a snapped rack can move both wheels when jacked up is because the rack will be fairly air tight due to the bushes and grease at each end of the rack.  When there is no load on the wheels, when jacked up, the working side of the rack will act like a piston and drag the broken side using air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T22:07:35.347" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T22:07:35.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26205" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:35:30.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a diagram of a rack and pinion steering system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIswM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIswM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Rack and Pinion Steering&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the rack connects the two front wheels. Which means if they are turning independently something in the list from @rpmerf or the rack itself is broken. It's also very clear that the car is not safe to drive since the wheels can go their own independent ways. That's a crash waiting to happen. Highway speeds would be especially dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T21:51:18.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:51:18.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26210" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:57:54.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Expedition is based on the Ford F-150 pickup and shares various components. It comes in a regular-size and in the longer EL/Max version (2007–present) that replaced the Excursion which was discontinued in 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Expedition is the third Ford vehicle to use the &quot;Expedition&quot; name, as it was originally used on a 1992 concept vehicle, the F-150 Eddie Bauer Expedition.&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Expedition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; The name was subsequently and briefly used for one of the Ford Explorer Sport (two door)'s trim levels during the 1995 model year, before applied to this SUV for the 1997 model year. Expeditions were originally built in Wayne, Michigan. In 2009, Ford shifted third generation production to Louisville, Kentucky, and converted the Wayne assembly plant to build the Focus. A refreshed third generation arrived to dealers in July 2014 for the 2015 model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ACmQd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ACmQd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Third Generation Ford Expedition&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Third Generation Ford Expedition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Expedition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T01:43:07.197" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:43:07.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26211" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:57:54.300" Score="0" Body="The Ford Expedition is a full-size SUV built by Ford. Introduced in 1996 for the 1997 model year as a replacement to the Bronco, it was previously slotted above the smaller Explorer. It is Ford's largest and last truck-based, off-road and tow-capable SUV." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T01:43:00.557" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:43:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26212" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:11:19.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Nissan Sentra is a car produced by Nissan since 1982. Originally subcompact in classification, for model year 2000 it was reclassified as a compact car, becoming mid-size for 2007. Until 2006, Sentra was a rebadged export version of the Japanese Nissan Sunny, but since the 2013 model year, Sentra is a rebadged export version of the Nissan Sylphy. The Sentra nameplate is not used in Japan. Many other countries in South America sell their versions of the Sunny as the Sentra. In Mexico, the first three generations of the Sentra were known as the Nissan Tsuru (Japanese for crane), and the B13 model is still sold under that name, alongside the updated models badged as Sentra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In North America, the Sentra currently serves as Nissan's compact car, despite being rated as mid-size due to its interior volume since the 2007 model year. While previous Sentras were subcompacts, the Sentra has grown over the years, with the Nissan Versa having replaced the Sentra in the entry-level area, and the Sentra has now is now rated as a mid-size car due to its interior volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sentra name was created for Nissan by Ira Bachrach of Namelab, and Bachrach describes the origin as &quot;Nissan wanted consumers to understand that it was quite safe even though it was small. The word Sentra sounds like central as well as sentry, which evokes images of safety.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNbxF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNbxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2014 Nissan Sentra S (US)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2014 Nissan Sentra S (US)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Sentra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T01:42:57.227" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:42:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26213" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:11:19.670" Score="0" Body="The Nissan Sentra is a car produced by Nissan since 1982. Originally subcompact in classification, for model year 2000 it was reclassified as a compact car, becoming mid-size for 2007." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T01:43:03.493" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:43:03.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:18:00.380" Score="2" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Tacoma, 4WD. I wanted to perform a driving simulation but with the truck being still in order to troubleshoot a rattling sound I can't reproduce when the engine is idling but the transmission is in neutral. It only happens when the truck is driven at times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to put the transmission in gear while the engine is on and the front of the truck is supported on adequately sized jackstands, while the rear wheels are down? Of course, not putting it in 4WD...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:41:26.377" Title="Driving simulation while on front jackstands" Tags="|troubleshooting|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26217" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:29:54.373" Score="11" ViewCount="3318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have frequently heard people blaming engine problems on letting the fuel in the fuel tank get too low, in so doing allowing sediment to be sucked into the fuel pump, which then causes a blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally find this very hard to believe for a number of reasons, for example -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The fuel will be constantly being &quot;swooshing&quot; around as you drive around corners, so stirring up any sediment, which will then go through the pump and filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) On many cars, the fuel pick-up point is very low in the tank and, if the pump is not inside the tank, the tank outlet may well be on the bottom of the tank, so any sediment would be sucked in no matter how low the fuel is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) When you fill up, the fresh fuel will disturb any sediment and distribute it in the fuel, ready to be sucked into the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I have owned a number of classic cars and have never seen any sediment in their fuel tanks when removing them from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be interested to hear if any one has really seen this and has experience of sediment causing blockages, especially when it only occurred after letting the fuel tank get low on fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - Is it really not advisable to let your fuel tank get low on fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T00:56:21.347" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T00:56:21.347" Title="Is it really not advisable to let your fuel tank get low on fuel?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26216" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:50:19.507" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with running the tank low in older cars is that the fuel cooled the fuel pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKr8h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKr8h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel pump would just hang out in the bottom of the tank with all the fuel and the fuel would wick away heat. When the tank gets low the pump is no longer covered by the fuel. With little fuel covering the pump, the pump gets hot. The pump wears more when its hot and just doesn't like to be hot. There are instances where filling an empty tank with with cold fuel causes the hot pump to contract and the car not to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Hjr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Hjr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most if not all new cars use a fuel pump module where the pump sits in a big plastic cup. That cup is always full of fuel to cool the pump. The cup only runs dry as you completely run out of fuel, but then your only running another minute or two. These vehicles are not affected by low fuel unless you run out completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sediment is not a big problem unless your getting fuel from unrespectable places. As you can see from both pictures, both pumps have a input filter (sometimes called a sock) and both socks sit on the bottom of the tank. If any sediment makes it into the tank it will be picked up if the tank is full or empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="1591" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:13:00.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:13:00.470" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26230" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:28:21.603" Score="4" ViewCount="2625" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm on say 50 Km/h my first gear is not accesible and second gear is too, 3rd gear however is hard to push in but 4th gear is easy to slip in, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:07:11.713" Title="My car locks lower gears when on high speed, why?" Tags="|transmission|shifting|gears|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:31:48.410" Score="1" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Hyundai XG350, and all of the wires from the battery run out of sight before connecting to the chassis. There is only one wire coming off of the negative, and a number of different cables coming off of the positive. I know that it's most likely that my car is a negative ground, but I wanted to check with the community to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use a portable jump starter on my car, and I need to know which side is grounded so that I know which side to connect the jump starter too. In a related question: Where on the chassis should I connect the jump starter? All I see is painted metal around the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5175" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T15:12:29.127" Title="Hyundai XG350 - Positive or Negative Ground Battery?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26296" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:35:09.777" Score="6" ViewCount="10314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike starting the car in the afternoon, after you've already started it at another time of the day. I understand that the higher RPM can be because of the temperature, however on hot days it's still the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other reasons besides temperature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1.5 Manual Honda Mobilio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="13642" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T02:30:31.087" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T17:11:34.670" Title="Higher idle RPM on first start at morning" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|engine-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26227" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:39:40.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my car's specs sheet I noticed:&#xA;Power (BHP@rpm): 117@6600&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does BHP@rpm mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:55:01.897" Title="What does BHP@rpm mean?" Tags="|engine|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26219" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:41:05.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can ground to the engine if the battery terminal isn't accessible. If the battery terminals aren't marked, on (some) Hyundais there will be fusible links on the positive battery terminal. And usually the cable is red and larger gauge than the negative battery cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:41:05.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26214" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:41:26.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The rear wheels are ALWAYS driven in all Toyota Tacoma models. There is no mechanism to disconnect the rear wheels, while there is a transfer case to engage/disengage the front wheels. Most AWD cars that only drive the front wheels until more traction is needed use a transaxle. Toyota also does not sell a FWD only Tacoma, but they do sell RWD only versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:41:26.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26225" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:43:15.213" Score="6" ViewCount="23399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked my car's specs sheet this morning and in it I noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque NM@rpm: 145@4600&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does NM@rpm mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="13642" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T00:02:46.857" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T11:03:06.757" Title="What does NM@rpm mean in car's spec sheet?" Tags="|engine|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26224" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:46:17.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newton meters of torque at 4600 RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NM is the metric way of measuring torque similar to Foot Pounds being the SAE way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine torque output changes with the RPM because the engine breaths differently over the RPM range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:46:17.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26221" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:55:01.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake Horse Power at 6600 RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BHP is measured at the crankshaft. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8057/what-is-the-meaning-of-bhp-and-torque-in-bikes-or-cars&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; post gives a nice description of how the BHP is calculated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T23:55:01.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26233" CreationDate="2016-02-18T23:57:08.197" Score="2" ViewCount="5185" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is fairly new and not that well documented online (it's a new model from late 2015)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For safety, how do I know if my car has a REV-limiter without testing it and letting it go up the red line RPMs? Is there a visible hardware or a sticker somewhere that would denote this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="13642" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T00:06:14.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:00:17.233" Title="How do I know if car ECU has a REV Limiter?" Tags="|rpm|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:10:38.410" Score="4" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that rev matching is acquired skill by practicing and driving more. I'd like to know if there was a device you could attach to your car that would detect and notify you if engine rev is match with your transmission (maybe with an audible beep)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A device like that would be very useful for new drivers trying to practice rev matching, because rev matching is very useful when down shifting without stalling like when your going up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1.5 Manual Honda Mobilio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="13642" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T02:42:55.653" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T21:07:30.920" Title="Is there a rev matching device?" Tags="|rpm|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26218" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:28:42.503" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you have a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop doing that, you will damage your transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your powertrain can be broke down into three sections. The engine, including the fly wheels. The clutch and input to the transmission. Finally the transmission output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you push the clutch the engine is disconnected from the transmission input. When you shift a gear, you change the ratio between the input of the transmission and the out put. Also when you shift gears there are collars called blocking rings that slide over and engage a set of teeth to lock you into gear. The blocking ring and teeth have to be spinning at the same speed for this to happen otherwise they'll just grind. To get them spinning the same speed a synchronize is used. The synchronizer uses friction to get the two part spinning together. As you drive you accelerate the engine to gain more speed. Then you push in the clutch the disengage the transmission. As you shift into the next gear the synchronizer will slow the clutch allowing the next gear to engage. As you shift gears the engine also slows so that when the clutch is let out they are roughly at the same speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lets play a hypothetical game. Lets say you can reach 20Km/h in first gear at 6000 rpm. How fast would the engine have to spin to get the car to 40Hm/h. The answer is 12000 RPM. How fast would the engine have to spin would to get the car up to 60Km/h. the answer is 18000 RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this hypothetical if you're driving at 60Km/h and try to shift the car into 1st gear how fast are you asking clutch to spin. The answer is 18000 RPM. The synchronize just can't handle that. Because there is such a difference in speed the gear just won't engage. It's probably grinding but so fast that you can't tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T00:28:42.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:31:06.567" Score="3" ViewCount="10308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to fix my truck for a while so long story.&#xA;I need help bought a 2004 power stroke with 100k miles. It ran well for 15k miles then started having low power for first few minutes to no power. Regular oil changes and fuel filters every 5k, checked FICM 48v KOEO , 48v cranking, new batteries just in case. Oil pressure when cranking at 50% of gauge. Even crank cycle will jump when trying to fire, no loss of coolant, block heater working. It did start a few a few times and blew white smoke until warm then full power. The last 2 times I did get it to start it ran for less than 1 minute and died could not re start. Fresh fuel, additive in both diesel and oil for stickshion, have read hundreds of posts but not seeing similar problems no codes. With key cycle 120 amp draw on passenger’s battery for approx 25 seconds 48 amps on right battery glow plugs good due to the amp draw?&#xA;So I think my FICM is good, good oil pressure cranking, the oil pump should be good, ICP good? Because of gauge coming up? Everything I read says black smoke for EGR soot issues. I did pull the EGR and it was cleaner than the “how to” video I had watched no carbon in the bottom of the chamber. I did clean EGR reinstalled with new O rings. Fuel flowing will overflow filter housing quickly. Not sure where to look. Any ideas or did I miss something, I live in western Oregon so not really that cold.&#xA;update: Just thought I would drop a note about the KIWI3 odb2 unit I finally received. After my card was charged Jan 15 and 3 shipping dates PLX gave me came and went I tried to cancel my order on Feb 29.&#xA;They then shipped the unit and I got it on march 3rd. The only software that is listed to work with my phone is obdautodoctor, the free version would not connect and after reading it would not reset codes so I purchased the pro version.&#xA;Still had a tough time connecting even after following both the hardware and software instructions but it did connect after several hours of trying.&#xA;STAY AWAY FROM THE KIWI3 if you have a ford 6.0 You cannot view very many sensor parameters at all that the system supports. NO FICM, NO ICP, NO IPR, NO fuel pressure or oil pressure, NO turbo info at all.&#xA;It really has less capability than my friend’s 12.00 made in china model. He can use several software packages. I Do Not recommend and would not buy again. If it would have the values above I would have given it a good score even after 6+ weeks waiting but for 99$ + software it is a ripoff , I have a tach, voltmeter , speedometer, temp, battery voltage &amp;amp;economy gauge on my dash and this is what you can see + barometric pressure . What a waste of $.&#xA;UPDATE!- after reciving the 20$ adapter and using forscan software I was able to find the true problem. My FICM power supply. When first turned it took ~15 seconds  to get to 48v about the time it took me to get there and put my meter on it, then while cranking after 6 seconds the voltage starts to dive all the way down to 21, I had not cranked long with the volt meter because I did not want to short the unit out. The new power supply on line from Amazon was 109 and the truck is running. The first few minutes were a bit rough but it settled down and sounds normal now. Thanks for all the advice and help. Ed Beal&#xA;I thought I would drop a update and say thanks again for all the help. The truck has been running well since the repair with no new problems , thanks again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15169" LastEditorUserId="15169" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T04:24:54.467" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T04:46:13.453" Title="2004 powerstroke white smoke now no start" Tags="|engine|ford|fuel-system|troubleshooting|diesel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:33:49.760" Score="5" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;97 Ford f350 7.3 turbo with duel tank set up ..... I need to know a few things. 1) what can cause no fuel to pump into the fuel bowl, other than the camshaft and the mechanical fuel pump? 2) with a new cam position sensor, I'm not getting any movement on the tachometer. What can cause this? 3) I'm not getting any smoke from the exhaust. but it does come back out of the turbo while trying to start it with WD40 and diesel gas sprayed into the intake through the turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14581" LastEditorUserId="14581" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T00:58:10.590" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T12:00:25.047" Title="No fuel pressure" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26228" CreationDate="2016-02-19T00:41:55.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rev limiter is a bit of a misnomer since maximum engine RPM is a function of airflow. However there are such things as fuel and spark cut off which will disable either injectors or coil packs as a result of going over a predefined RPM (this also happens on deceleration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a little research I found a patent that dates back to 1980 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US4336778&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/patents/US4336778&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all in all it's safe to assume that any fuel injected engine has some kind of &quot;rev limiter&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T03:00:17.233" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:00:17.233" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3078" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:37:24.000" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same problem thought my contacts were dirty. Tried by hand many times many speeds put my 07 in reverse and was able to get right into program mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15171" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T01:37:24.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26237" CreationDate="2016-02-19T02:38:42.930" Score="8" ViewCount="30536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine Control Module&#xA;Powertrain Control Module&#xA;Engine Control Unit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading about them online, they seem to be the same thing, computers.&#xA;So what are the spcific difference between them? Is the other one any better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T19:10:05.653" Title="ECM vs. PCM vs. ECU?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|computer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26235" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:00:35.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience with this particular subject you have many variables that come into play.&#xA;My shop specializes in computer systems on some of the newer vehicles (Mostly Japanese), but we do work on anything given the chance. ECM, PCM, and ECU are generally manufacturer specific. I usually see ECU when referring to Asian vehicle companies. Chrysler likes to use ECM and PCM. Quite a few GM manufacturers use PCM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about it from the engineers standpoint they can mean different things though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Control Module would most likely be your control unit dedicated to all electronics/ Sensors dedicated to your engine only. You would probably have additional computers for things like windows, air conditioning, transmission and they all have their names as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your manufacturer uses the term PCM, it will most likely control multiple aspects of your &quot;Powertrain&quot;. It perhaps could be that it controls the transmission and engine. Maybe even power steering and emissions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that PCM and ECU are the two most used terms for the actual engine computers. ECM is generally a &quot;catch All&quot; term that can mean quite a few things. I have a few friends that are electrical engineers and they use the term ECM for &quot;Electronic control module&quot;. Which could literally mean anything driven by a computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what it boils down to honestly is what the engineers say it is. I could go on and on, but this is just my personal experience with those terms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped you a little!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:00:35.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26175" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:59:10.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that most people neglect to mention is UV stability: even with so-called UV inhibitors, any GRP which is left out in the sunlight will begin to deteriorate: the resins will become brittle and the coloured gel-coat top surface will get spider-web like cracks in it and lose colour. I've seen Lotus Europas that look like they're about ready to disintegrate, just because they've been in the sun for a few decades (and this is much harder to fix than rust)&#xA;GRP has been popular for a number of decades with kit and low-production manufacturers (in the 50's lotus was very much run like a kit-car company in their methodology) so it is good for low production (tooling and setup) costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it's much quicker to have a dedicated steel press hammering out panel after panel, usually at a rate of one or more a second. Glass usually takes a few hours to set or cure before it can be removed from the mould.&#xA;so on one hand, you can produce car bodies with minimal setup costs (quite a lot of the moulds I&quot;ve used over the years have been made of wood with a layer of glass and gelcoat to give a nice surface to then take mouldings from) vs. the cost of making steel dies for pressing, but then on the other hand, the daily production of bodies in steel will be much higher, which is what the major manufacturers want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15177" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T09:48:43.433" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T09:48:43.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-19T04:05:15.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this really depends on your driving habits, location, coverage, and how much you care about being inconvenienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular circumstances, as I'm (perhaps incorrectly) understanding them, you'll probably be fine. Leave the spare at home 99% of the time, but remember to bring it with you if you're going somewhere you might be out of cell range, or the wrecker/cab might not come pick you up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers have pointed out, it's really a bad idea to be stuck 200 miles from anything at 2 AM on the side of a frigid mountain pass with no way to get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you live in a large-ish city, you can call a wrecker and cab at pretty much any time of day, then just deal with the new tire the next day as a worst-case scenario. Depending on the location, you can leave the car where it's at overnight and take the flat tire (still on the wheel) with you. The next morning, take a cab to the shop to replace the tire, then take a cab back to your car where you replace it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many insurance plans will pay your towing and at least one of the cab fees for a small monthly premium in just this scenario. Because flats are so rare, especially if you regularly replace tires that are getting worn, you're unlikely to be inconvenienced very often, and you're always going to be in range of a cell tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheaper way is if you just have friends who are willing to come pick you up at 2 AM when this happens from time to time, but you still need a cell tower so you can call them. Although really, you can just walk a few miles to the nearest fuel station and use the landline so cell towers aren't even needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it's still faster to just change the flat where you're at and drive to the shop tomorrow, than do all of the above and still have to deal with the flat tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate option would be a folding bike instead of a spare. I don't think you'll save any space or weight, but it has the advantage that you can use it to get help in any kind of breakdown situation, not just a blown tire, and it can be useful to get to and around crowded parts of town without paying parking tolls if there's free parking not too far away. Just put airless tubes in it and do regular bike maintenance from time to time so you know it works when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11940" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T04:05:15.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T06:12:09.243" Score="2" ViewCount="2046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started to notice that there's a high pitch hum or ringing (sort of like a high pitch ringing in your ears sometimes) when the engine is running. And when I turn off the engine it's like turning off the vacuum cleaner (don't know if its related to the high pitch sound). Is there something I should be worried about? I've attached a photo of what region the high pitch sound comes from. The car is a 2001 Holden Astra sedan.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KF6ji.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15178" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T21:07:41.887" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:07:41.887" Title="High pitch hum/ringing" Tags="|engine|noise|astra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26220" CreationDate="2016-02-19T08:39:03.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you would be surprised how hot the engine can be and the ECU will still raise the idle.  for example on my 1999 Nissan Almera 1.6 liter the computer will raise the idle until the engine reaches 80 degrees Celsius.  I have verified this with a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T08:39:03.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26235" CreationDate="2016-02-19T09:34:00.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term ECM could (just as @cloudnyn3 says) be used for both Electronic Control Module or Engine Control Module. Different brands has different names for the same stuff, and also same name for different stuff, which can get a little confusing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term ECU is often used for Electronic Control Unit (which could be more or less any electronic unit in the car). For example my -97 Range Rover has several ECU's: ECM (Engine Control Module), BeCM (Body electronic Control Module), ABS (for the brakes), Transmission, EAS and some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the ECU's are connected with one or more of the other ECU's. Often with a bus system (for example CAN, LIN, K-Line, Flexray, MOST etc). Cars of today often have even more ECU's and larger bus networks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One ECU can not be said to be better than another (except maybe some quality issues), they just have different domains that they handle in. And they are very seldom interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases persons that has spoken to me about &quot;the&quot; ECU/ECM don't really know what they were talking about. But quite often they mean the module that controls the engine. Some say this is because I either don't understand colloqialism or maybe because I'm a pedantic twat. Possibly both. And they might be correct. (they still don't know what they talk about though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastEditorUserId="15182" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T08:13:57.483" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T08:13:57.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2016-02-19T09:35:59.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you replace one plug at a time or did you do all at the same time?  It may be that you've accidentally mixed the order of the plug leads.  As there is fuel and a spark, the next step would be to check ignition timing and your first port of call is the firing order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T09:35:59.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26224" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:03:06.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWwJH.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VWwJH.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a typical torque diagram (this appears to be for an LS1 engine), this is in &lt;code&gt;lb-ft&lt;/code&gt; instead of &lt;code&gt;Nm&lt;/code&gt; but the idea is the same. The peak torque seem to be around 350lb-ft @ 4200 RPM. The peak power ~340hp @ 5500 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hp (power) is a function of the torque and the revs per minute and a constant (which comes from pi, and minutes to second etc). &lt;code&gt;power[hp] = torque[lb-ft] x RPM ÷ 5252&lt;/code&gt; So the power at peak torque would be 350*4200/5252 = 280hp which seem to correspond to the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realising that the power of the car is a curve and not just a single figure (like 250hp) will explain why different cars with the same power figures can have very different characteristics. For example an engine with higher low rev torque (and power) than the one in the diagram would be faster even though the peak power was the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T11:03:06.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26219" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:07:11.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that they stopped making positive earth cars in the 1960s.I have never seen a positive earth car with an alternater .All the pos earth stuff I had seen had generators and was generally british .Neg earth corrodes the wiring and pos earth corrodes the body .The choice is obvious .If you are still worried that your car is pos earth you can put a DVM on what you think is the pos battery terminal and the frame of the car and a pos 12V reading tells you that it is neg earth.All standard automotive electronics is set up for neg earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T11:07:11.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:22:40.777" Score="1" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just imported an Isuzu Bighorn (1992 model) from a reseller.&#xA;When I turned the key on the engine only squeaks and squeaks. After several trials the engine struggles and eventually starts.&#xA;I don't have any clue about cars so please tell me what to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers...&#xA;Raymond &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15184" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T14:44:33.847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:03:45.560" Title="Squeaking sound before the engine starts" Tags="|engine|isuzu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19833" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:28:07.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen &quot;jump starters&quot; like this everywhere. I was given one to evaluate by an Autoelectric importer. I thought it was rubbish. I warned him and he didn't import them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How they work is by using a battery that has very good power density, but poor energy density .Its like being very strong but not fit.The batteries that are used are Nicad and its environmentally friendly cousin, the nickel metal hydride. The lithium battery is a good all rounder when it comes to energy density and power density, but it costs much more so you tend not to see them used for jump starting. If you tried to put say a nicad in a normal car the charging system would need to be different and you would find that flat battery syndrome would occur more often. This is because of the increased self discharge rate and the smaller amp hours due to the much smaller size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T12:37:21.110" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T12:37:21.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26250" CreationDate="2016-02-19T11:29:22.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be as simple as the battery connections need tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are at it, you could clean the battery posts and the connectors where they come into contact with the battery posts with some wire wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the negative terminal first and reconnect it last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to check that you have the security code for the stereo before you disconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T12:08:24.603" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T12:08:24.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T12:11:56.720" Score="4" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;It starts every time and the engine shakes badly in higher gears. However, if I turn the engine on and off MANY times it will eventually kick back in and run as it should. So frustrating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on a fix please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15187" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:04:57.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:04:57.193" Title="VW Bora (1.9 L TDI) - Misfire on cylinder 2" Tags="|vw|diesel|misfire|bora|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26255" CreationDate="2016-02-19T12:30:31.803" Score="11" ViewCount="21843" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I tried to start my motorcycle but the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;kick-starter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; failed. It was idle for about a month but it was riding fine before that . My motorcycle doesn't have an electric starter function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel tank has more than a liter of petrol, last I checked. And, the battery is 3 years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With kick-start being the only option , how can I start my motorcycle , so that I can take it to the nearest mechanic for repair ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a BAJAJ CT100, which is a 100cc motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14525" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:16:52.740" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T06:34:02.880" Title="How to start my motorcycle when the kick-starter fails?" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26254" CreationDate="2016-02-19T12:59:51.113" Score="12" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the key in the ignition to 'On'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the clutch lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage first or second gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the motorcycle gain speed (either go downhill or push start)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let go of the clutch lever. The motorcycle should sputter to life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T12:59:51.113" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:01:03.590" Score="3" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please help, earlier this morning while driving from work, an young man was driving crazy on the freeway. He spin out of control hit 2 cars, then hit the semi-truck in front of me. Mind you we are all doing 70mph. I had to slam down on my brakes to stop. Now my brake symbol is on ❕and my brakes are to the floor. Please give me an idea on what may be the problem. I replace my brakes, rotors all around last summer. Please help. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15188" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:57:35.947" Title="Brakes to the floor HELP!" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26256" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:33:54.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you either blew a brake line or possibly a seal on one of your calipers. Regardless, you should NOT drive the car. Have it towed to a reputable service station and have it inspected and fixed. A blown brake line may be inexpensive (a lot of the cost is the labor involved to re-route it through the chassis), a blown caliper seal may require a new (or rebuilt) caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T13:33:54.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26253" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:44:23.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US, the VW diesels are notorious for loading up the intake with soot, which must be cleaned out. I would imagine a repair shop or dealership would be familiar with the procedure. The alternative would be to simply replace the intake, but I would hazard a guess that getting the old one cleaned might be cheaper (new intake manifolds are currently ~USD300). If you want to try to tackle this yourself, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/intake-manifold-removal-cleaning-of-carbon-build-up-mk4-tdi-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there's a guide on-line&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T13:44:23.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26241" CreationDate="2016-02-19T13:55:33.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak. Check all the vacuum lines in the area. Some electronic components can also make a high-pitched whine when they start to fail, but the only ones I'm familiar with that do that are flyback transformers and high-current power converters, and I don't believe a car would have any of those. That said, it might be worthwhile to find out if the vehicle's ECU or other control units are in the area, and check to see if they're making any noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T13:55:33.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:12:33.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has no spare wheel, but has comes with a repair kit and built-in inflation kit. I've decided it's not worth the cost of acquiring a spare wheel, based on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Likelihood of a puncture (at all) is low on decent tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have roadside assistance if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chances are quite high that an unfixable puncture would occur when changing a wheel couldn't happen anyway (motorway hard shoulder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:12:33.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26231" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:29:46.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;White smoke is usually caused by coolant getting into the cylinders. Only doing it for a few minutes sounds like the crack seals up when the engine gets warm. Double-check your coolant (both level and condition) and check the oil too -- if it looks milky or frothy, then that's a further indication of a coolant leak. Usual cause is a cracked head gasket, although I have seen pictures of fractured heads as well. Hope this isn't the case, but it's something to check, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:29:46.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:35:47.370" Score="3" ViewCount="13119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed a problem recently with my Acura Integra's driver side 9006 headlight low-beam bulb.  At first I thought the bulb was burnt out and needed replacement; however upon inspection I noticed that it is not burnt out, just not illuminating for some reason.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply removing then replacing the bulb from the headlight housing socket &lt;em&gt;(still connected to the wiring)&lt;/em&gt; will sometimes illuminate the bulb, and if that doesn't work disconnecting the 9006 bulb and clicking it back in will light it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously not ideal and I believe will cause my bulb to burn out prematurely eventually, What could be the root of this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:42:41.257" Title="Single headlight does not come on but is not burnt out" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26262" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:42:06.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The filament could be broken in one spot, and moving the bulb could be shaking it so the broken section makes contact again and it illuminates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this before with household light bulbs.  I'll go to remove the bulb (with the power on - I know, not a &quot;best practice&quot;) and turning the bulb a little will make it come back on momentarily as the pieces of filament touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you suspect an electrical wiring fault, just replace both of the headlight bulbs - its probably time to replace them and the new bulbs will be brighter just because they are new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:42:06.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26262" CreationDate="2016-02-19T14:42:41.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the bulb socket is corroded. You could try spraying it with contact cleaner, or trim an emery board to fit and giving a couple of passes with that to remove the corrosion. With any cleaning method, I'd recommend putting a little petroleum jelly on the bulb contacts to try to prevent any further corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T14:42:41.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26256" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:18:43.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake symbol usually comes on when the level of fluid in the master cylinder is below a certain level.  Usually from a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brake system works on hydraulic pressure via brake fluid.  When you depress the brake pedal you are increasing the brake pressure through a system of lines and hoses which go to your calipers.  The calipers squeeze the brake pads against your rotors slowing the car.  It is a relatively simple system and a closed system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A closed system means that no fluid is lost unless there is a leak.  When a leak occurs fluid could seep out of several places, generally including the master cylinder, brake lines, brake hoses, or your calipers.  When fluid is able to escape air takes its place, so almost certainly you have air in the lines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the brake pedal will go to the floor with air in the lines, is that air is much less dense than the brake fluid and compresses much easier, which leaves your car with reduced (or nonexistent) braking ability which is very unsafe and should not be driven, because you will continue to lose pressure until this is fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on fixing it yourself you will need to find the leak, which can be done by examining the places mentioned above and look for brake fluid in any of those places.  Try pumping the brakes rapidly and checking around and under your, tracing the lines starting at the master cylinder all the way to the calipers.  Look for puddles or drips of brake fluid under the car in these areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the issue is found you will need to replace the part which has failed (obviously), which requires draining your brake fluid and removing the air from the lines by a process known as bleeding the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar situation happened to me recently where I just barely dodged an accident but had to lock up the brakes, shortly there after I had the same problem because my brake hose had failed due to the stress put on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brake system has low fluid from a leak, find the source of the leak and bleed your brakes or get it towed to a shop and have them fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="2583" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:57:35.947" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:57:35.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:26:42.100" Score="3" ViewCount="12136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota RAV4 2003 and the CEL used to come on and off, but now lately it stay on all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check with OBD reader and the car had a &lt;kbd&gt;P1135&lt;/kbd&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check the voltage on upstream and downstream O2 sensor and it showed 0.9 to 1.2 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to find or identify what could be wrong? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15131" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:32:18.253" LastActivityDate="2023-04-14T22:19:37.980" Title="P1135 code on 2003 Toyota RAV4" Tags="|toyota|o2-sensor|p1135|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26256" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:27:46.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@JohnDream has it right, his picture may help to amplify his answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFXbz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFXbz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Brake system basic function&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As he said this is a closed system with the brake fluid reservoir providing for some small losses, expansion and contracting from temperature, etc. But if the pedal is on the floor, it's very likely there is little to no fluid in the system, or an extreme amount of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be glad this is all you have to deal with. Sounds like a very scary near miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:27:46.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:42:42.563" Score="1" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a flat last night and went to put on the spare and the jack had seized! After a couple of people started working with it, we finally broke it loose, but since the primary screw had rusted I don't feel comfortable using it to support the weight of my car at all. Since I drive in the country pretty regularly, I don't feel comfortable not having a jack. I'm gonna go to the junkyard this weekend to try and find one in decent shape that fits in my spare tire well. I know from my shop days that some scissor jacks have a hex head on them, but can't remember which vehicles those came in. It would prefer this to the &quot;hook through eye&quot; type that my car came with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:58:56.593" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:35:21.757" Title="Which vehicle manufacturer produces scissor jacks that have hex heads?" Tags="|jack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26266" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:43:04.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR: The sensor is difficult to check because the current change it produces is too small for most clamp meters, so you would have to cut the harness to test it. Not recommended. Try checking for bad connections first. If it's not those, and it's likely not the ECM as you would likely have other symptoms than just this, then try replacing the sensor itself. It is recommended you get a profesional diagnosis before parts swapping as the sensor can be very expensive. (as much as $400 USD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is directly from AutoCodes.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p1135_toyota_rav4_2.0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.autocodes.com/p1135_toyota_rav4_2.0.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The code is for an air/fuel ratio sensor heater circuit malfunction. The listed possible causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Faulty Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p1135_toyota_rav4_2.0.html#ixzz40d18jJnm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.autocodes.com/p1135_toyota_rav4_2.0.html#ixzz40d18jJnm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F)sensor need to reach a minimum operating&#xA;  temperature of 1200 degrees F to produce an accurate voltage signal.&#xA;  The faster the air-fuel ratio sensor reaches that temperature the&#xA;  faster the sensor will start sending an accurate signal to the Engine&#xA;  Control Module (ECM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to achieve the require temperature, a heater element is&#xA;  included inside the air-fuel ratio sensor. The ECM controls the&#xA;  air-fuel ratio sensor heater element based on signals from the engine&#xA;  coolant temperature and engine load. The ECM controls the heater&#xA;  element circuit by allowing current flow to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ECM monitors the voltage signal received through the heater&#xA;  element circuit and determines the state of the circuit by comparing&#xA;  the voltage detected with the factory specifications.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This diagram is included to help you identify which bank is at fault:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwDBi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwDBi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Identifying Sensor Bank&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is how to test an AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) sensor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;As the ECM monitors the varying current, a special circuit (also&#xA;  inside the PCM or Power-train Control Module) converts the current&#xA;  into a voltage value and passes it on to the serial data stream as a&#xA;  scanner PID. This is why the best way to test an AFR sensor’s signal&#xA;  is by monitoring the voltage conversion circuitry, which the ECM sends&#xA;  out as an AFR-voltage PID. It is possible to monitor the actual AFR&#xA;  sensor varying current, but the changes are very small (in the low&#xA;  milliamp range) and difficult to monitor. A second drawback to a&#xA;  manual AFR current test is that the signal wire has to be cut or&#xA;  broken to connect the ammeter in series with the pump circuit. Today’s&#xA;  average clamp-on ammeter is not accurate enough at such a small scale.&#xA;  For this reason, the easiest (but not the only) way to test an AFR&#xA;  sensor is with the scanner. By using a scanner to communicate with the&#xA;  ECM, one can view AFR sensor activity. This data is typically&#xA;  displayed as WRAF, A/F, or AFR sensor voltage. However, on some&#xA;  vehicles and scanners it will show up as &quot;lambda&quot; or &quot;equivalence&#xA;  ratio.&quot; If the PID displays a voltage reading, it should be equal to&#xA;  the sensor's reference voltage when the air/fuel mixture is ideal. The&#xA;  reference voltage varies from car to car, but is often &lt;strong&gt;3.3 V or 2.6 V&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  When the fuel mixture becomes richer (on a sudden, quick&#xA;  acceleration), the voltage should decrease. Under lean conditions&#xA;  (such as deceleration) the voltage should increase. If the scanner PID&#xA;  displays a &quot;lambda&quot; or &quot;equivalence ratio,&quot; the reading should be 1.0&#xA;  under stoichiometric conditions. Numbers above 1.0 indicate a lean&#xA;  condition while numbers below 1.0 indicate rich mixtures. The ECM uses&#xA;  the information from the sensors to adjust the amount of fuel being&#xA;  injected into the engine, so corresponding changes in the short-term&#xA;  fuel trim PID(s) should also be seen. Lean mixture readings from the&#xA;  AFR sensor will prompt the ECM to add fuel, which will manifest itself&#xA;  as a positive (or more positive) short-term fuel trim percentage. Some&#xA;  technicians will force the engine to run lean by creating a vacuum&#xA;  leak downstream from the mass airflow sensor, and then watch scanner&#xA;  PIDs for a response. The engine can be forced rich by adding a metered&#xA;  amount of propane to the incoming airflow. In either case, if the&#xA;  sensor does not respond, it likely has a problem. However, these tests&#xA;  do not rule out other circuitry problems or ECM issues. Because an AFR&#xA;  sensor can be relatively expensive (up to $400 U.S dollars), a&#xA;  professional diagnosis is recommended.&quot;&#xA;  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   This is from here: &#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFR_sensor#Testing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFR_sensor#Testing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electrical issues about open harness or poor electrical connection can be checked by using an ohmmeter to &quot;buzz out&quot; (check for conductivity) between the two connectors on the harness. Also look for any corrosion on the connectors themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:51:02.550" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:51:02.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26270" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:43:42.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Fusion is a mid-size car produced by Ford. Introduced in the 2006 model year, it placed second in a Car and Driver ranking of top-selling mid-size cars, which described it as &quot;Not your father's Taurus&quot; The 2010 model was awarded the Motor Trend Car of the Year and its hybrid version won the 2010 North American Car of the Year Award. The Fusion is manufactured at Ford's Hermosillo Stamping &amp;amp; Assembly where the similar (and now discontinued) Mercury Milan and the Lincoln MKZ were also built. All three cars utilize the CD3 platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i6EKf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i6EKf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second Generation Ford Fusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Second Generation Ford Fusion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Production on the first Fusions began on August 1, 2005. The Fusion replaced the Mondeo for the Latin American markets—except in Argentina (where the current European Mondeo is available) and in the United States and Canada (where it superseded the then mid-size Taurus). The Fusion is positioned between the compact Ford Focus and full-size Ford Taurus. In the Middle East, this model is sold alongside the Mondeo. Versions sold there are available only with the 2.5-litre engine. Unlike in the United States, Canada and Latin America, no V6 engine is available in that region. The same is true in South Korea, where only the 2.5-liter engines (including those for the hybrid model) are available as of the 2012 model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second generation line-up includes a gasoline engine option, an EcoBoost engine option, a next-generation hybrid model, and a plug-in hybrid version, the Ford Fusion Energi, making the Ford Fusion the first production sedan to offer these four options. Sales of the gasoline-powered and hybrid versions began in the U.S. in October 2012 under the 2013 model. Sales in Europe and Asia, as Ford Mondeo, are expected to begin in 2015, along with South Africa, where the Fusion name will be used. Deliveries of the Fusion Energi began in the U.S. in February 2013. The entire 2013 Ford Fusion line-up was awarded with the 2013 Green Car of the Year at the 2012 Los Angeles Auto Show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fusion_(Americas)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T16:00:22.507" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:00:22.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26271" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:43:42.750" Score="0" Body="The Ford Fusion is a mid-size car produced by Ford. Introduced in the 2006 model year, the Fusion is manufactured at Ford's Hermosillo Stamping &amp; Assembly." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T15:59:37.753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:59:37.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26254" CreationDate="2016-02-19T15:58:10.480" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a drill to start most pull start or kick start engines. be sure not to let go. It's not the safest idea but for a temporary use it will get you home &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14581" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T15:58:10.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26266" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:01:55.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/26269/675&quot;&gt;@cdunn has all bases covered&lt;/a&gt;, but the intermittency and low voltage tells me that the issue is with the ECU receiving signal from the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some basic circuit continuity testing with a multimeter will help you track down the reason for the lack of signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:01:55.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26268" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:35:21.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I don't have enough reputation to comment, I'll post here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only cars I know that had hex head jacks were the older (2004ish) Dodge Neons, and late 90's-early 2000s Mazda 626s. Other than cars, though, most RVs have hex-head jacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck on your search!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T16:35:21.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T16:38:34.080" Score="4" ViewCount="7150" Body="&lt;p&gt;My E46 BMW 320d was recently driven through some water too deep for it. The engine and rest of the car is fine but the electric levelling feature for the headlights has failed. The headlights were in a state of pointing right down to the ground resulting in a very short throw of light from the car. There is a small dial to the right of the steering wheel (next to the dash lighting adjuster) which is used to adjust the headlight angle. This no longer works - when it is adjusted a whirring motor sound can be heard from the headlights but no adjustment happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights themselves are standard dual halogen units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've temporarily mitigated the problem by adjusting the dial that exists on the top of each headlight accessible from when the bonnet is opened which is a sort of manual override but it would be good to have the automatic adjustment working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the headlight units there's no obvious sign as to the location of the motor that adjusts the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best advice to try and diagnose and fix the problem or should I just take it to a professional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15194" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:17:01.847" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T08:33:45.430" Title="BMW E46 electric headlight leveling" Tags="|headlight|320d|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26253" CreationDate="2016-02-19T17:13:25.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26253/my-vw-bora-has-a-misfire-on-cylinder-2#comment41346_26253&quot;&gt;my comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the issue is with fuel delivery, specifically fuel delivery to Cylinder #2. Here is what I would check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;confirm that the Cyl #2 injector is receiving signal to rule out an electrical issue&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will involve unplugging the injector connector and testing the ECU-side connector for voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is a diesel, it isn't very accessible - the valve cover will have to come off. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/gaOGBPKD2oI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; should help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were a petrol engine, I'd also be worried about a clogged injector. However, it looks like diesel injectors are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racq.com.au/cars-and-driving/cars/owning-and-maintaining-a-car/car-maintenance/diesel-injector-cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not as prone to clogging&lt;/a&gt;, so I'll leave it to someone with diesel experience to chime in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T17:13:25.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T17:47:12.927" Score="9" ViewCount="26661" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 VW Golf 3 is over-consuming fuel, I use 10 liters for 45km,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My mechanic ask me to change the automatic gear-box because it is not selecting gear above gear 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I change the automatic gear-box but the issue is still there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I change the plugs too, they are functioning well now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My car is either carbureted or fuel injected, I don't know, please help me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any need to use car scanner to detect the fault!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15196" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T23:17:33.883" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T12:48:16.807" Title="Higher than normal fuel consumption - What could be the cause?" Tags="|vw|fuel-consumption|golf|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26289" CreationDate="2016-02-19T18:19:33.357" Score="2" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;After parking my car for too long I decided to drive it. I noticed that the dashboard LCD is covered in red.  I don't know how this occurred.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxsf9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxsf9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a possible fix for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a replacement LCD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I even need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15197" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T18:33:32.737" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:56:38.777" Title="BMW E60 530i - Dashboard LCD Issues" Tags="|bmw|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26138" CreationDate="2016-02-19T18:43:57.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: it might be better for noise, vibration and harshness than for handling.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time, I had a Fox body mustang.  I remembered it being chock full of rattles and squeaks. It was definitely a source of sideways looks from the WifeUnit back in the we have no money days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a little research, it appears that the greatest measurable benefit that you might gain from an engine bay strut bar is a reduction in noise, vibration and harshness (also known as NVH).  Apparently, there's real data that indicates that a front bar can change the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1106490-strut-tower-brace-fox-body.html#/forumsite/20549/topics/1106490?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chassis resonant frequency&lt;/a&gt;. Apparently, the increase in frequency is manifested in a reduction in rattles, cowl shake and all kinds of annoyances.  The net result is that the car feels more &quot;tight.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the same poster says that he has tested before and after with his 88 on track and has seen no change in lap times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will it seem nicer?  There's a reasonable chance. Will it make you go faster?  Almost certainly not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:43:57.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:19:23.797" Score="3" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my sled ran out of oil (it started to leak) and it locked up. I managed to get it started again, but barely. I had no thin oil and I had to use some 10w40 heavy oil. I didn't put in too much just a little just to get me to a gas station for some 10w30. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this harm my sled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15200" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T22:20:03.613" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:20:03.613" Title="Running thick oil in a small engine" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26281" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:38:06.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Escape is a compact crossover vehicle sold by Ford since 2000 over three generations. Ford released the original model in 2000 for the 2001 model year—a model jointly developed and released with Mazda of Japan—who took a lead in the engineering of the two models and sold their version as the Mazda Tribute. Although the Escape and Tribute share the same underpinnings constructed from the Ford CD2 platform (based on Mazda GF underpinnings), the only panels common to the two vehicles are the roof and floor pressings. Powertrains were supplied by Mazda with respect to the base inline-four engine, with Ford providing the optional V6. At first, the twinned models were assembled by Ford in the US for North American consumption, with Mazda in Japan supplying cars for other markets. This followed a long history of Mazda-derived Fords, starting with the Ford Courier in the 1970s. Ford also sold the first generation Escape in Europe and China as the Ford Maverick, replacing the previous model. Then in 2004, for the 2005 model year, Ford's luxury Mercury division released a rebadged version called the Mercury Mariner, sold mainly in North America. The first iteration Escape remains notable as the first SUV to offer a hybrid drivetrain option, released in 2004 for the 2005 model year to North American markets only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainstream production of the first generation Escape/Tribute ended in late 2006. For Asia-Pacific markets, both received respective facelifts in 2006 and had production fully transferred to Ford Lio Ho in Taiwan. Extended production of the Mazda lasted until 2010, with the Ford lingering on until 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1Myf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1Myf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Escape, Third Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Escape, Third Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Escape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:08:56.213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:08:56.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26282" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:38:06.797" Score="0" Body="The Ford Escape is a compact crossover vehicle sold by Ford since 2000 over three generations. " OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:09:32.060" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:09:32.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26280" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:38:13.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer:&#xA;It doesn't matter. The recommended engine oil for your engine wouldn't be near the edge of what your bearing clearances could tolerate, so going a little up or down from that isn't going to affect anything. 10W30 and 10w40 are very close to one another in terms of behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation/showing of work:&#xA;The main purpose of oil is to lubricate the metal parts of the engine as they move against one another. The oil is pressurized by a pump and fed through oil passages to spaces between all the moving parts. These spaces are surrounded by bearings that are supposed to ensure an exact spacing between the parts. For example, as your crankshaft rotates and the connecting rods move up and down, there are bearings between the block/main caps and the crankshaft and bearings between the crankshaft and the rods. The purpose of the bearing is to trap a specific amount of oil at a specific temperature and viscosity between the two moving parts so that they don't touch one another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a slightly higher viscosity will actually offer a slightly better protection at the cost of slightly increased pumping and shearing losses (because the oil is thicker and doesn't flow as easily). The risk is that if you go to an extremely high viscosity, the pump won't be able to push the oil through the bearings to lubricate properly. So don't put 120W oil in your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 10W30 vs 10W40 might as well be the same for all intents and purposes here. They behave the same at low temperatures. The only difference between them is that 10W40 is slightly thicker when the engine is warmed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:38:13.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26341" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:39:13.683" Score="3" ViewCount="5422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious as to how useful the engine temperature sensor actually is. It tells you the coolants temperature obviously, but I have read that the engine actually operates hotter than the coolant. For example, oil temperature can vary from 90 degrees Celsius to around 120 depending on engine load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically speaking, if an engine's coolant was replaced with pure or highly concentrated anti-freeze which does not transfer heat as effectively as water, how would this affect the engine's actual temperature? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine it would increase higher than normal but would the sensor show any indication of this, or would the engine be overheating without the user ever knowing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T08:53:50.973" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T06:30:57.073" Title="Effects of anti-freeze concentration on engine temperature" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|temperature|thermostat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26285" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:51:03.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pontiac Grand Am is a mid-size car and later a compact car that was produced by Pontiac. The Grand Am had two separate 3-year runs in the 1970s: from 1973 to 1975, and again from 1978 to 1980. It was based on the GM A platform. Production of the Grand Am was canceled in 1980 when it was replaced by the Pontiac 6000. The Grand Am was reintroduced in 1985 when it replaced the Pontiac Phoenix. It was Pontiac's best selling car and later replaced by the Pontiac G6, so named as it was intended to be the 6th generation of the Grand Am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 1973-75 Grand Ams were built in Pontiac, Michigan at Pontiac's main assembly plant. 1978-1980 Grand Ams were built in Pontiac, Michigan at Pontiac's main assembly plant and in Atlanta, Georgia at GMAD Lakewood. All Grand Ams between 1985 and 2005 were built in Lansing, Michigan at the Lansing Car Assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grand Ams were available with the sub models SE, SE1, GT, and GT1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NUKS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NUKS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pontiac Grand Am Fifth generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pontiac Grand Am Fifth generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Grand_Am&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:09:17.840" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:09:17.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26286" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:51:03.300" Score="0" Body="The Pontiac Grand Am is a mid-size car and later a compact car that was produced by Pontiac. " OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:09:03.933" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:09:03.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26287" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:55:27.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Honda CR-V is a compact SUV, manufactured since 1995 by Honda. It was loosely derived from the Honda Civic. There are discrepancies as to what &quot;CR-V&quot; stands for. Mike Danko states that it stands for &quot;Comfortable Runabout Vehicle&quot;, although sales literature in the UK has reportedly made references to &quot;Compact Recreational Vehicle&quot;. Some also believe it stands for &quot;Civic Recreational Vehicle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda began producing the CR-V in Sayama, Japan, and Swindon, UK, for worldwide markets, adding North American manufacturing sites in East Liberty, Ohio, in 2007; El Salto, Jalisco, Mexico, in late 2007; and Alliston, Ontario, Canada, in 2012. The CR-V also is produced in Wuhan (Hubei province) for the Chinese market by the Dongfeng Honda Automobile Company, a joint venture with Dongfeng Motor Corporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CR-V is Honda's mid-range utility vehicle, slotting between the smaller HR-V and the larger Pilot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Znk3I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Znk3I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda CR-V Fourth generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Honda CR-V Fourth generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CR-V&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:08:51.323" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:08:51.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26288" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:55:27.473" Score="0" Body="The Honda CR-V is a compact SUV, manufactured since 1995 by Honda." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:09:35.983" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:09:35.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26278" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:56:38.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem in my old E39 M5, in that case it was possible to ignore the problem since the display was only informational.  The biggest thing that concerns me with your failure is that you will not be able to check the oil level since if I remember correctly there is no dipstick on that car.  Other issues I can think of would be not being able to reset the service interval for the various systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a replacement display available by itself, you will need to replace the whole cluster which is running $800-900 from BMW and I found one for $200 on ebay.  I am guessing the part number is 62109194887 you should validate that based on the specifics on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:56:38.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26291" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T20:38:44.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Ford Ranger&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ford Ranger is a nameplate that has been used on three distinct model lines of vehicles sold by Ford. Originally, the name was used by the short-lived Edsel Ranger car, then it later referred to a version of the Ford F-Series pickup truck sold in North America between model year 1965 and 1981 that denoted a styling package. Ford repurposed the name &quot;Ranger&quot; in 1982 for the 1983 model year for a compact pickup truck sold in North America and later parts of South America. Since 1998, Ford has offered a separate model of Ranger sold internationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;North America&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ford Ranger is a compact pickup truck that was manufactured and marketed by Ford Motor Company from 1983 to 2012 model years for North America; from 1997 to 2011, a version was also manufactured and sold in South America. Introduced to replace the Ford Courier produced in Japan by Mazda, the Ranger was produced in two distinct generations. While introduced a year after the Chevrolet S-10, the Ranger would go on to become the best-selling compact truck in the United States from 1987 to 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over its production life, the chassis and underpinnings of the Ranger would be used for various compact Ford trucks, most commonly as sport-utility vehicles. During the 1990s and 2000s, Mazda adopted a badge-engineered version of Ranger, taking on the B-Series nameplate (the reverse of the Ford Courier produced by Mazda).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over its 29-year production run, Ford sourced the Ranger from three different assembly plants in North America. The Ranger was produced at the Louisville Assembly Plant in Louisville, Kentucky from 1982 to 1999; from 1993 to 2004, production also was sourced from Edison Assembly in Edison, New Jersey. For its entire production run, the Ranger was produced at Twin Cities Assembly Plant in St. Paul, Minnesota. The final 2012 Ford Ranger produced on December 16, 2011 also ended 86 years of production at Twin Cities Assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnJHw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnJHw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Ranger Second Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Ranger Second Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Ranger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T21:42:23.597" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:42:23.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26292" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T20:38:44.927" Score="0" Body="The Ford Ranger is a nameplate that has been used on three distinct model lines of vehicles. Originally, the name was used by the short-lived Edsel Ranger car, then it later a version of the Ford F-Series pickup truck sold in North America between model year 1965 and 1981 that denoted a styling package. Ford repurposed the name &quot;Ranger&quot; in 1982 for the 1983 model year for a compact pickup truck sold in North America and later parts of South America." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T21:43:50.417" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:43:50.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26171" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:07:52.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is 8e1 9600 b/s inverted UART. The second graph represents 6 byte packet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15141" LastEditorUserId="15141" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T04:28:06.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T04:28:06.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26294" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:21:06.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Taurus is an automobile manufactured by Ford in the United States. Now in its sixth generation, it was originally introduced in the 1986 model year, and has remained in near-continuous production for more than two decades. It has had a Mercury-branded twin the Sable (1986–2005; 2008–2009), as well as a performance variant, the Ford Taurus SHO (1989–1999 and 2010–); in addition, it served as the basis for the first-ever front-wheel drive Lincoln Continental (1988–2002). It was a front-wheel drive mid-size car until 2007, and has been a &quot;global&quot; full-size car (built on the Ford D3 platform) since 2008, and available in front- or all-wheel drive since 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBbD6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oBbD6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Taurus Sixth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Taurus Sixth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Taurus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T22:02:25.773" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:02:25.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26295" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:21:06.607" Score="0" Body="The Ford Taurus is an automobile manufactured by Ford in the United States. Now in its sixth generation, it was originally introduced in the 1986 model year, and has remained in near-continuous production for more than two decades." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T22:02:39.367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:02:39.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26220" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:40:43.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All ambient temperatures are below engine operating temperature, so you'll still get &quot;cold engine&quot; behavior on a hot day unless you drove the car recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every car is different and will have a different cold start process, but coolant temperature is the dominant factor in whether this behavior triggers on the cars I'm familiar with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:40:43.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26355" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:16:40.560" Score="7" ViewCount="3816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car came in with a misfire complaint and check engine light on with code p0300. Looking at misfire history confirms high misfire counts on cylinders 1 and 4 along with lower counts on cylinders 2 &amp;amp; 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trims OK LTFT &amp;lt; 10.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Plugs are fouled.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Compression tests ~200psi on each cylinder.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using a spark tester indicated good spark on each secondary coil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuel pressure KOER ~55psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I forgot to save the capture I did on the fuel injectors but it's what you'd expect. Ramps to 2A with no indication of a shorted primary coil. Secondary looked uniform. So I ruled out injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to the primary ignition side. Fortunately on the 2.2 the ICM sits on top of the coil pack. And the PCM is about 12&quot; away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red = CKP Signal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Blue = ICM 1/4 Trigger&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Green = Coil Pack Primary&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yellow = CMP Signal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pictures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idling&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJFDa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJFDa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Idling&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks OK for a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5zFD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5zFD.png&quot; alt=&quot;wat?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... Why is that coil suddenly drawing fewer amps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the ICM signal delta it's a few milliseconds shorter ~5ms compared to ~3ms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax0Ah.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax0Ah.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this one the deltas is down to 2ms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each case the car has a good cam and crank signal as well as good cam/crank correlation. So you can rule out engine timing as well as ckp/cmp function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... Replace the ICM? At this point I wasn't 100% sure and tried a CKP Variation relearn. To no success, all it did was shift the misfire from cylinder 1 to 4. Luckily the ICM had been replaced a little under a year before and thus was under warranty. R&amp;amp;R'd a new ICM and the misfires disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unfamiliar with how the ICM on a GM 2.2 works and am wondering if anyone with greater electrical experience could shed some light. Obviously in this case something within the ICM was commanding a shorter spark duration and didn't seem to be caused by external factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to keep the ICM to tear it apart and with my limited electrical knowledge I doubt I would learn something unless it was staring me in the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another regret I have is that I don't have an inline kV probe to look at the secondary side. Maybe it would of shed more light on what was happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen? Is it poor engineering? This ICM wasn't original and less than a year old. Inspection of the interconnect between the ICM and coil pack didn't reveal anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Whole Capture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link to the whole capture from idle to 3000 RPM&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55044707/04%20saturn%20ion%202%20p0300.vsm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55044707/04%20saturn%20ion%202%20p0300.vsm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requires Shop Stream Connect to view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="2110" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T20:30:44.840" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T20:30:44.840" Title="2004 Saturn ION with Ecotec 2.2: Engine misfire with code P0300, ICM problem?" Tags="|ignition|saturn|misfire|ecotec|p0300|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2016-02-19T23:11:51.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surging is definitely related to air trapped in the cooling system - what's happening is you have coolant splashing onto the temp sensor but it's not actually submerged in the coolant until the temp increases enough, so in the meantime it's like your idle control (choke) is kicking on and off repeatedly until you hit close to normal operating temp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this particular engine to know where the valves are located to bleed air but know that foreign automaker engines are notorious for this up and down rpm problem when coolant is low.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you could try jacking up the front of the car to elevate the radiator and then run the engine for a good 20 minutes or so (make sure you hit full temp) with the radiator cap off to let all air work out of the system.  If you see coolant level drop, add more coolant with the engine running until it's topped off and staying full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15204" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T23:11:51.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26314" CreationDate="2016-02-20T00:55:18.980" Score="7" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to do a cut and polish on my Australian made Holden Calais VT commodore (98 model). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very new to doing cut and polishes and was hoping someone could point me out to what products what suit my scenario the best keeping in mind that I am a beginner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a fair few scratches/small stone chips on my front bonnet and wheel guards which I think could be cut and polished out. But I am not sure what strength cut and polish I should use and also what finishing sealant (i.e. wax or polish) that I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Raven Pearl color which resembles dark blue. I do have a powered buffer. In Australia where I live Meguiars products are readily available and which i believe are good quality so perhaps it makes sense to recommend products from their range. The only other product I've seen that looked appealing was a t-cut 365 brilliant blue pack which was appealing bc it was specific to blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached some photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXIwr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXIwr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBVzy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBVzy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15205" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:43:38.023" Title="Cut and Polish: Looking for help on how to do my car" Tags="|paint|cleaning|paint-scratches|detailing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T01:42:14.370" Score="6" ViewCount="15119" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a very low/dead battery and it doesn't start. What I did though was, kick the bike for few minutes and later it started, but when I tried to move the vehicle by putting it in first gear it automatically switch off any suggestion on how to start this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS : Mechanic or any help is minimum 20km away so any suggestion on fixing this vehicle on my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15207" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T21:36:13.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T21:45:45.497" Title="Starting Enfield with low/dead battery" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|starting|battery-drain|enfield-bullet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2016-02-20T02:45:07.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It literally just makes it harder to steer. When the car is in motion, steering isn't too hard, just gotta put a little more strength. Parked or moving below 10 mph, it's a pain in the ass to steer, depending what car it is. It's not going to damage the car, the pulley will be fine. I have a 95 GT without PS and it's extremely difficult to drive (only because of the weight) but it's not too bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15209" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T14:48:53.543" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T14:48:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T03:34:37.087" Score="4" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first purchased my Civic in Jan of 2015. My first car had terrible over heating problems so I decided to get rid of it for my civic. Turns out, my Civic has the SAME problem. I decided to take it down to Daytona for a road trip when I bought it and halfway there I saw it was all the way on the H. I stopped at a rest stop (thankfully) and this really nice guy put water in it and told me I had absolutely no coolant. I thought, okay that's fine, I'm an idiot for not checking, it should be fixed. Well, when I got to Daytona I took it to my Uncles house (he's been a mechanic for years) and after a little research we decided that I needed to replace my thermostat and my radiator. we also took out my condenser. but low and behold, that has not fixed the problem. I've had diagnostics run on a lot of things and everything has come back working just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHAT ELSE COULD BE THE PROBLEM!? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put coolant/water in it every single day before I drive it and it's been fine for a while, and there are no leaks, my oil is not milky, and my exhaust is fine. PLEASE HELP! I want to keep my car, thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15210" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T19:46:18.417" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T19:06:06.873" Title="Over heating of my 05 Honda Civic" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26182" CreationDate="2016-02-20T09:14:52.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 45 years I've been driving, most of which were on the poorly maintained streets of Hawaii, I've had only one flat that could not have been fixed by a plug kit (and even that one was my fault). So no, I don't consider a spare an absolute necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in cars that did have a spare, I felt it was easier to use a plug kit than to change a tire (US spelling), so my spares really never got used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those slime/goo sealant kits are even easier to use, but I prefer plugs because if a single plug can seal the leak, it's fixed (and you can use more than one, but it's not considered a permanent repair). With the tire sealant goo you still need to have the tire repaired, and that stuff is nasty so some shops will charge extra when fixing a tire sealed with goo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of plugs is that they won't damage TPMS sensors. Some goo kits claim to be safe for TPMS, but if a sensor does get damaged it will add a lot to the cost of repair. And finally, plugs can fix larger holes than goo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you have driven on the tire while significantly under inflated, it should ALWAYS be inspected by a professional, even if a plug can seal it. Driving on a tire with low pressure can damage it, and it needs to be removed from the wheel and inspected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what about that one time I did need a spare? It was also flat, of course. I'm an &quot;out of sight, out of mind&quot; kinda guy, so while I'm pretty diligent about monitoring the condition of the tires ON my car, I tend to forget about the tire IN my car. Fortunately, since I carry a plug kit, I also carry a compact compressor, which I used to re-inflate the spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest car is a 3rd generation Mazda MX-5, which does not come with a spare (or even have room for one). It comes with Mazda's &quot;Instant Mobility System&quot; (IMS). Basically a can of sealant goo and a compact compressor. Oh, and that reminds me of the other thing I don't like about goo, it has an expiration date. I don't know what Mazda put in their sealant, but they also say that once you've used it, the tire needs to be replaced! WTF?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Dynaplug kit, tested the OEM compressor to make sure it worked, and never looked back. Just remember to also carry some pliers or a multi-tool so that you can remove the offending object before plugging the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for rambling on. So yes, I do consider a tire/tyre repair kit a viable replacement for a spare. No, it will not cover 100% of all situations you may encounter, but it will cover you probably 99% of the time (IMO). And since you have a spare already, you could leave it at home and call a family member or friend to bring it to you if you do get stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me, since I don't have a spare, I just added roadside assistance to my insurance. But with my plug kit (and a portable jump starter) I'm pretty confident I won't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T09:14:52.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26308" CreationDate="2016-02-20T12:19:20.823" Score="3" ViewCount="6332" Body="&lt;p&gt;In April last year I bought a 2008 Ford Focus. The tyres were relatively new, all apart from the front right which was more worn than the rest. I've driven the car roughly 7,000 miles in nearly 11 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the tread depth on each of the tyres and 3 of them have around 4.5mm of tread left but the front right has only about 2mm left (legal limit being 1.6mm). The worn tyre is a different brand to the others which suggests to me the previous owner replaced just that one (maybe after an unrepairable flat or something?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Would it be alright to change just the worn tyre for a new one with the intention of swapping the others to the same tyre make (Pirelli P7) once they need it?&lt;/strong&gt; Would it be better to swap both front ones and just accept I will lose 4.5mm of good tread? (The spare is a space saver). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/920/is-it-okay-to-replace-one-tire-of-four-matched-tires-with-a-completely-differe?rq=1&quot;&gt;a couple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17319/tire-replacement?rq=1&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; questions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7572/replacing-four-tires-or-two-front-tires-on-a-front-wheel-drive-car/7631#7631&quot;&gt;this subject&lt;/a&gt; but none that seem to discuss changing a tyre that is much more worn than its opposite tyre when the other tyre in the pair still has reasonable life in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand there could be differences in the characteristics of tyres so that in heavy breaking it might behave differently. I also read there might be insurance implications due to 'improper maintenance'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not so concerned about the cost of this (if they need replacing, they need replacing...) but I don't necessarily want to throw away a part worn tyre if I don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I'm specifically interested in how this might affect the handling and if the effect would be adverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outcome&lt;/strong&gt;: Based on the comments here I actually ended up changing both front tyres for new Pirelli P7s and moving the less worn tyre from the front to the back where there was evidence of cracking in the side-wall of one of the rear tyres. I disposed of a cracked side-walled tyre that had roughly the same 4mm wear on it as the front one I'd swapped. I guess I lost out a little bit but really the equal front grip is probably worth it in the end!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15193" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T11:50:53.877" Title="Can I change a single worn tyre instead of a pair?" Tags="|ford|tires|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26307" CreationDate="2016-02-20T12:49:56.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do that if you wish, there is no law against miss-matching tyres however some people prefer to have the same brand and tread depth on each axel, which is why they change two at a time so that the front two match and the back two match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for heavy breaking the newer tyre will provide more grip which could cause the back end to crab sideways however this will only be under severer emergency breaking conditions. This is the same for different branded tyres as one brand may offer more grip than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that there are no extreme dangers to this, the choice is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T12:49:56.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26231" CreationDate="2016-02-20T14:03:46.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a diesel mechanic but after a quick search the number one cause of no starts on the 6.0 is lack of oil pressure. The injectors need 500psi minimum to operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This indicates there is not sufficient high pressure oil to properly operate the injectors. There needs to be a minimum of 500 PSI&#xA;  ICP pressure and it should always match the desired pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start by checking the low pressure oil system. Remove the oil filter, push down the valve bottom of the oil filter housing, have&#xA;  someone crank the engine while you watch for oil filling the housing.&#xA;  If oil starts to fill the housing within 5 to 10 seconds, the low&#xA;  pressure oil is fine. On E-series vans, simply remove the oil filter&#xA;  and crank the engine, see if any oil comes through the oil filter&#xA;  port.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the high pressure system will have to be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the ICP sensor located in the right valve cover.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install an adapter so a shop air hose can be attached in place of the ICP sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slowly allow shop air into the system until 100 to 120 PSI is pushed into the system. At this time you should hear air rushing into&#xA;  the crankcase at the rear of the engine, this is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Access the PCM on the left side of the engine compartment. Backprobe a ground wire into pin 2, Yellow and Red wire. This should&#xA;  close the IPR valve and you should hear a noticeable change in the air&#xA;  noise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is no change at all in the sound, either there is a large leak or the injection pressure regulator has failed. The regulator is&#xA;  located on the high pressure pump in rear engine valley.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is a change, but you still hear air leaking, pinpoint to source of air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the air sound is in the engine valley toward the rear of the engine, suspect a pump connector fitting or branch tube concern.&#xA;  Reference the attached TSB 08-18-6 for further information on that&#xA;  repair. Also see the attached high pressure pump illustration for&#xA;  reference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the air sound is coming from either valve cover area, remove the valve cover. Now listen and watch, look for air bubbles, listen&#xA;  for air, in some cases the leak will be between the injector manifold&#xA;  and the injector, injector o-rings, or the injector manifold valves.&#xA;  The injector valves are located one on each end of the manifold and&#xA;  can be removed with a 1/2 ratchet. Both have o-rings that can fail.&#xA;  Repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If grounding the IPR circuit as described in step 7 makes a noticeable change and there are no air leaks heard, there are&#xA;  block-off tools available for each head. These block-off tools go in&#xA;  place of the check valves on each manifold. These are used to block&#xA;  off each head one at a time, then see if the engine will start on the&#xA;  other head, if it will not, and there are no air leaks, suspect a weak&#xA;  high pressure oil pump.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out these TSBs as well&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TSB - 10-12-6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TSB - 08-26-3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TSB - 04-23-3 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one mentions the white smoke symptom you observed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TSB - 06-2-13 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TSB Main Page :: Year 2004 :: Model F-250 :: TSB 06-22-3&#xA;TSB&#xA;06-22-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;WHITE SMOKE, LACKS POWER, EXHAUST ODOR, SURGES, RUNS ROUGH, OR NO START – 6.0L&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Publication Date: October 23, 2006&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FORD:     2003-2005 Excursion 2003-2007 F-Super Duty 2004-2006 E-350,&#xA;  E-450&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This article supersedes TSB 06-2-13 to update the Service Procedure&#xA;  and vehicle model years. ISSUE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some vehicles equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may experience white&#xA;  smoke, lacks power, exhaust odor, surges, runs rough, or no start when&#xA;  cold. These conditions are caused by the injector spool valve sticking&#xA;  internally during cold engine operation engine oil temperature less&#xA;  than 70° F (21° C). The concern is typically evident following a cold&#xA;  start after an overnight soak at ambient temperatures below 70° F (21°&#xA;  C) and may last 3-5 minutes or longer as the vehicle warms up. The&#xA;  concern completely disappears after driving and the engine oil&#xA;  temperature (EOT) is greater than 150° F (66° C). ACTION:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Diagnose and address these driveability concerns using the following&#xA;  Service Procedure. This procedure includes a fuel injection control&#xA;  module (FICM) recalibration that adds an injector cycling sequence&#xA;  after every shutdown. This will prevent cold injector spool valve&#xA;  sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Customers will be able to hear the injectors cycling after shutting&#xA;  off the vehicle, so a customer information sheet has been included&#xA;  with this bulletin. It is important to demonstrate the injector&#xA;  cycling routine, explain the noise as a normal part of the&#xA;  reprogramming, and deliver a copy of the the information sheet to the&#xA;  customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For Econline 6.0L, a wiring harness modification is needed to allow&#xA;  the FICM to power itself down when the vehicle is turned off, instead&#xA;  of being controlled by the key through the powertrain control module&#xA;  (PCM) power relay. SERVICE PROCEDURE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: (SERVICE ADVISOR OR SERVICE MANAGER) IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE&#xA;  SURE THE CUSTOMER KNOWS THE CYCLING SOUND AFTER SHUTDOWN IS CYCLING&#xA;  THE INJECTORS AND IS NORMAL. BE SURE TO DEMONSTRATE THE POST-SHUTDOWN&#xA;  CYCLING SOUND TO THE CUSTOMER AND EXPLAIN THE NOISE IS NORMAL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Reprogram the FICM to the latest calibration using IDS release IDS 45.9 and higher or IDS 46.1 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2006.11 DVD. Calibration files may also be&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;obtained at www.motorcraft.com.&#xA;      E-Series vehicles ONLY, the FICM wiring modification MUST be performed.&#xA;      After reprogramming, start the engine then turn off the key and verify injector cycling for 30 seconds after engine shutdown.&#xA;      Test-drive the vehicle to get the engine up to full operating temperature in order for the new injector shutdown cleaning cycle&#xA;  calibration to be effective. At least 12 AGGRESSIVE ACCELERATIONS from&#xA;  25-50 MPH (32-80 KM/H) should be adequate to get the EOT up to 180° F&#xA;  (82° C). After test drive verify EOT is greater than 180° F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;NOTE: SOME ROUGH IDLE AND HARD INITIAL START IN EXTREME COLD TEMPERATURES (BELOW 20° F OR -7° C) IS ACCEPTABLE AND CAN EVEN BE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EXPERIENCED ON NEW VEHICLES. FURTHER REPAIRS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED&#xA;  IF THE VEHICLE IMPROVES IN ACCELERATION/DRIVE AWAY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Service Advisor Or Service Manager Recommended Steps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Advise and demonstrate to the customer the injector cycling sound when the engine is shut down. It is IMPORTANT to make the customer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;aware that the cycling sound after shutdown is normal.&#xA;      Print a copy of the customer information sheet and give it to the customer for future reference. (Figure 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Econoline Fuel Injection Control Module Wiring Modification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two (2) wiring splices are needed to modify the FICM power path to&#xA;  enable injector post-cycle. Both will be made using the Rotunda&#xA;  164-R5903 Crimp Tool Kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From this kit, we will be using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Four (4) shrink tubes&#xA;Two (2) medium-size crimp barrels&#xA;&#xA;Additional tools are:&#xA;The crimp tool&#xA;The heat gun&#xA;&#xA;Disconnect the negative battery cable.&#xA;The first splice will be under the power distribution box (PDB). To access the wires to be spliced, remove the box and battery cable&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;covers.&#xA;      Remove the B+ cable from the PDB terminal.&#xA;      Uncouple the PDB from the lower half by releasing the four (4) lock tabs with a flat blade screwdriver. Then flip the box over to&#xA;  access the wires to be spliced.&#xA;      Locate Circuit 3049 (black with light green stripe). This is the PCM keep-alive memory wire. We will be tapping into this wire to feed&#xA;  the FICM relay coil, which is circuit 361 (red wire connecting to the&#xA;  FICM relay socket). (Figure 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Figure 1 – Article 06-22-3&#xA;&#xA;Locate an easily-accessible place where the two (2) wires can be spliced together. You may need to gently pull the wires out of the&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;main bundle for access to allow enough slack in the wires to make the&#xA;  splice.&#xA;      Cut through both wires. Cutting the red wire closer to the main harness bundle may help to provide enough slack to make the splice.&#xA;      Strip both cut ends of 3049 (BK/LG) and the relay side of 361 (RD). Do not strip the harness side of 361.&#xA;      Twist Circuit 361 and 3049 together, then insert into one end of a medium crimp barrel.&#xA;      Slide heat shrink tubes onto the harness side of each wire. Make sure to do this before crimping, which is the next step. You may need&#xA;  to shorten the shrink tube to allow exposure of the stripped end of&#xA;  the wire on the main bundle for crimping.&#xA;      Using the middle anvil of the crimp tool, crimp 361/3049.&#xA;      Insert the other end of 3049 into the other side of the crimp barrel.&#xA;      Using the smallest anvil of the crimp tool, crimp 3049.&#xA;      Slide the shrink tubes into place over the crimp barrel and half way over the blunt cut end of the harness side of 361.&#xA;      Heat both the shrink tubes evenly, taking care not to singe any wires. Heat until melted sealant flows out of both ends, this will&#xA;  ensure that a weatherproof seal is achieved. (Figure 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Figure 2 – Article 06-22-3&#xA;&#xA;Reassemble. Torque the PDB cable nut to 80 lb-in (9 N-m).&#xA;The second splice is at the X3 connector on the FICM, located in the rear against the dash. This is the widest of the three (3)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;connectors. (Figure 3) To access this connector, remove the air&#xA;  cleaner lid and move the coolant bottle out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Figure 3 – Article 06-22-3&#xA;&#xA;To start, remove the three (3) bolts attaching the coolant bottle to the fender and cowl.&#xA;Move the coolant bottle over for access.&#xA;Loosen the intake boot hose clamp and unclip the air cleaner lid.&#xA;Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor connector.&#xA;Remove the lid.&#xA;Unclip the X3 FICM connector by squeezing the top and bottom tabs while pulling straight out.&#xA;Remove the tape from the tail of the 90° cover.&#xA;Unclip the cover by prying at the side seams.&#xA;Carefully remove the tape from the first 6 inches (15 cm) of the harness branch leading away from the connector. (Figure 3)&#xA;Locate Circuit 814 (white with black stripe).&#xA;Locate the four (4) circuit 876 wires (green with light green stripe).&#xA;Choose one (1) 876 (GN/LG) wire which runs close to circuit 814 (WH/BK).&#xA;Locate an easily-accessible place where the wires can be spliced together.&#xA;Cut through both wires.&#xA;Strip both cut ends of 876 (GN/LG) and the connector side of 814 (WH/BK). Do not strip the harness side of 814.&#xA;Slide heat shrink tubes onto the harness side of each wire. Make sure to do this before crimping, which is the next step. If you forget&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the heat shrink, cut the splice out and re-crimp. DO NOT disassemble&#xA;  the connector for any reason, as it is very difficult to re-assemble.&#xA;      Twist Circuit 876 (GN/LG) and 814 (WH/BK) together, then insert into one end of a medium crimp barrel. Using the middle anvil of the&#xA;  crimp tool, crimp 876/814.&#xA;      Insert the other end of 876 (GN/LG) into the other side of the crimp barrel.&#xA;      Using the smallest anvil of the crimp tool, crimp 876 (GN/LG).&#xA;      Slide the shrink tubes into place over the crimp barrel and half way over the blunt cut end of the harness side of 814 (WH/BK).&#xA;      Heat both the shrink tubes evenly, taking care not to singe any wires. Heat until melted sealant flows out of both ends, this will&#xA;  assure that a weatherproof seal is achieved. (Figure 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Figure 4 – Article 06-22-3&#xA;&#xA;Tape the branch.&#xA;Reinstall the 90° cover and tape the tail. Reconnect the X3 connector, making sure both top and bottom latches click&#xA;Reposition the coolant bottle and torque the bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N-m).&#xA;Reinstall the air cleaner lid.&#xA;Connect the MAF sensor.&#xA;Tighten the intake boot hose clamp, torque is 35 lb-in (4 N-m).&#xA;Reconnect the negative battery cable, torque is 18 lb-ft (25 N-m).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WARRANTY STATUS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And&#xA;  Emissions Warranty Coverage OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME&#xA;  062203A   2004-2006 Econoline 350/450 6.0L: Perform Fuel Injection&#xA;  Control Module Wiring Modification, Reprogram The FICM, Includes Time&#xA;  To Road Test (Do Not Use With 12650D, 12650D84, 9601A)    1.8 Hrs.&#xA;  062203A   2003-2007 Super Duty, 2003-2005 Excursion 6.0L: Reprogram The&#xA;  FICM, Includes Time To Road Test (Do Not Use With 12650D,&#xA;  12650D84) 1.0 Hr DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 9E527    42&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Figure 5 – Article 06-22-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for&#xA;  use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools,&#xA;  and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these&#xA;  technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides&#xA;  information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The&#xA;  procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not&#xA;  assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a&#xA;  Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin&#xA;  applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan&#xA;  documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage&#xA;  unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this&#xA;  Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing.&#xA;  Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information&#xA;  with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford&#xA;  Motor Company’s on-line technical resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T14:12:28.683" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:12:28.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26307" CreationDate="2016-02-20T14:35:03.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the cause of the wear on that tire, the condition of the rest, and the tread of the new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 3 new tires and one got punctured in the sidewall, many companies have a limited warranty and you can replace the one for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an alignment problem, get an alignment before replacing tires to avoid early wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better tires should be mounted on your drive wheels. FWD in front, RWD in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace one tire and you have any less than 80% of tread on the rest, try buying a used tire with 70-90% tread. &#xA;When buying a single tire, it's always best to get a matching tread pattern to your good set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:35:03.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25669" CreationDate="2016-02-20T14:44:49.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can estimate DTE. Fill your tank. If you know your capacity, you now know how much is there. If you know your fuel economy, multiply capacity by mpg and that's roughly your DTE.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:44:49.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25250" CreationDate="2016-02-20T14:49:02.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe they can be converted without swapping the navigation system. Might as well hire a translator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:49:02.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24774" CreationDate="2016-02-20T14:53:43.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem with my 06 G6. The pins in your calipers are likely seized. Try cleaning or replacing the slide pins. If that doesn't help, it's probably time for calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T14:53:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26299" CreationDate="2016-02-20T16:31:55.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: if you are new to cut and polishes, I would recommend starting with mild cleaner wax by hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at your pictures, you don't have major paint damage. More importantly, I don't think anything in those pictures is something that will polish out as such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation if you are super new to this is to start small and easy. Many vendors make nice cleaner waxes that are useful for exactly this sort of situation. Those incorporate a mild polish with the waxing and, as a result, will smooth out any sharp edges in swirls and chips.  Even better, the wax will fill those small swirls and, optically, will make them disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chips are a different problem. In that case, paint is gone and you probably need to replace it. For those, touch up paint that matches your original color is important. Little dabs only, though. You don't want to overfill the chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my recommended plan is a bottle of cleaner wax and some nice, all cotton cloths. Apply by hand to a small clean area with swirls. Allow to haze and then remove. I think you'll be impressed. Apply touch up paint to those chips that still bother you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you identify some products that you really like, then you can think about the powered buffer. Don't go there first, though. That way ends in tears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:31:55.787" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26299" CreationDate="2016-02-20T16:43:38.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think maguires has a clay bar too.  Wash the car with a little dish soap, to help remove a lot of oil and wax build up, then use the clay bar.  Repair your rock chips first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:43:38.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6445" CreationDate="2016-02-20T16:52:52.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alignment fixed mine. The toe in was several degrees on each side. Had my tie rods replaced but did not get the alignment done because my steering wheel was straight while driving and car went straight but when I got to about 58mph the steering wheel would start shaking. This happened intermittently sometimes it didn't shake. Alignment cured but make sure you don't have loose suspension components or other things of coarse. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:52:52.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T17:11:54.583" Score="11" ViewCount="29550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reverse no longer works...when I shift into Reverse it goes into 1st gear. All other gears work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2002 Jetta TDI 1.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;what could the problem be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15220" LastEditorUserId="11459" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T10:26:24.113" LastActivityDate="2019-10-12T23:59:06.730" Title="Reverse is now 1st gear on manual transmission" Tags="|vw|shifting|jetta|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26347" CreationDate="2016-02-20T19:06:17.920" Score="5" ViewCount="5285" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the ignition fully off, my current draw is pretty much zero, but with the ignition on (to be clear - engine not spinning, starter motor not engaged) it increases to 2.5 amps (at about 11.5v, since I've run the battery a bit flat testing this). I've turned off everything I could find that might be drawing power - now I'm wondering if the ignition coil would perhaps draw that when on? It's a 1982 Ford Capri MK3, so it hasn't exactly got a lot of electrical gizmos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find any information on what I should expect as the base draw in this scenario, and obviously I'm wondering if I've got a partial short circuit somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14662" LastEditorUserId="14662" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T11:28:58.880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:28:58.880" Title="How much current should my car draw with the ignition on?" Tags="|electrical|battery|troubleshooting|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26318" CreationDate="2016-02-20T19:51:21.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2.3A seems a little high?&#xA;However though, you may have a really good battery to compensate for that. My Dodge Magnum with KEY ON draws around 1.9A. It doesn't sound too excessive. If you have a spare battery, grab it, hook it up, and see how long it takes to kill the battery from start to finish. Most cars at KEY OFF draw around 15 - 50mA. I think your car is fairly ok considering that when you actually activate the KEY ON position, you're most likely activating the fuel pump, the A/C, The engine computer, the radio and dash, lights, and any solenoid mechanisms that draw power on at startup (injectors, sensors, etc etc etc...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Dodge uses a HUGE battery, it looks like something that would start an F-250. It's somewhere around 1000CCA, so if your car draws a lot of power, it may just have a beefy battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T19:51:21.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26301" CreationDate="2016-02-20T21:45:45.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Many times you can start a motorcycle with a low battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26254/how-to-start-my-motorcycle-when-the-kick-starter-fails/26255#26255&quot;&gt;This answer has a push start method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can also coast down a hill and let out the clutch with the ignition 'on' and the start switch set to 'on'&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use jumper cables and get a charge from a car battery.  You can use the jumper cables and allow the car to just idle.  You don't want to charge your battery too quickly with a high amperage as you can do damage to the battery.  Check your battery temp by touching it occaisionally to get an idea of temperature.  Do not let the battery get hot to the touch.  If it does, allow it to cool for a bit and stop charging it.  As well, you can charge your battery with the car engine off.  You may want to disconnect the car from time to time and start it to keep the car battery from draining too much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things to check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ignition switch w/ key set to 'on'&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sidestand switch, make sure the sidestand/kickstand is up&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once Started&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have your gear handy once you start it so you can get on the bike and ride it around for a bit to charge the battery.  It's difficult to say how long you would need to ride to charge the batter due to the unknown state of the battery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If push starting your bike works to get it started at least you can now begin to focus on the kick starter issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T21:45:45.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T23:35:55.780" Score="4" ViewCount="3964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the 2 belts on my 2011 Hyundai Elantra.  Now when I put the heat on it makes a weird squealing noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15226" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T00:07:26.683" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T00:07:26.683" Title="Replaced belts and they still squeak" Tags="|hyundai|belt|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11366" CreationDate="2016-02-20T23:56:46.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have a few possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1980%20Suzuki%20GS550L%20exhaust.TRS0&amp;amp;_nkw=1980%20Suzuki%20GS550L%20exhaust&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Get used off Ebay.&lt;/a&gt;  I always see those stock pipes on there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can drill a hole through the side of your current junk pipe and rivet the baffle in place as long or short term temporary solution.  You will need to get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=rivet%20gun%20kit&amp;amp;oq=rivet%20gun%20kit&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3919j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rivet gun and rivets&lt;/a&gt; to get this done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=exhaust%20fiber%20glass&amp;amp;oq=exhaust%20fiber%20glass&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.4519j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=exhaust%20fiberglass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repack your baffles&lt;/a&gt;, as you suggested, and then use the rivet gun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, tin cans are good for gerry rigging exhaust.  They can take heat better than aluminum cans.  You can drill out a tin can and jam into your exhaust and rivet it into place as a temp solution.  If you don't know much about tuning your carburetors, don't do this one as it will mess up your mixture.  You can use pieces of a tin can in riveting your baffle and what not too.  Have one handy if your going to gerry rig it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T23:56:46.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26323" CreationDate="2016-02-21T00:06:04.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;belt tension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that the belt is not tightened enough with the tensioner pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn on your heat on some cars the air conditioner pump button on the dash will default to on.  My son's Hyundai does this.  At that time when the pump engages, even though you have it set to heat, added tension is applied to the pulley that turns the air conditioner compressor.  The added work on the belt overcomes the friction coefficient of the belt on the crank pulley and you hear the loud 'squeal' sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to loosen your tensioner pulley on that belt and add tension to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your belt that run's across the AC compressor pulley also drives your alternator and power steering.  2009 to 2011 model years are all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instructions on replacement and adding tension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwG1ZVXdgYM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; explaining how to change the belt properly and add tension to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T00:06:04.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2857" CreationDate="2016-02-21T01:04:57.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;depends on if you have carburetors or fuel injection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a carburetor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will make the bike have a lean condition&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Backfire on deceleration&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More oxygen will create more engine heat and this will cause additional wear on components&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could burn your exhaust valves&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could buy a jet kit and pipe to go with it and get a few extra HP out the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you have fuel injection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A little more power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your FI will automatically adjust your mixture&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air flow improvement&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possible better particulate removal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't think of any&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:04:57.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1791" CreationDate="2016-02-21T01:31:26.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Galley's in the Carburetors are Clogged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Aprilia Pegaso uses a constant velocity carburetor with many small fuel and air galley's within it for various circuits.  The Pegaso carburetor, as it is a CV carburetor, has diaphragms for the slide operation and automatic AFR adjustment at various altitudes/air pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the carbs assembled, lift the slide in the venturi and let it drop.  It should drop slowly and provide resistance when you push it up.  Do this several times in quick succession.  You should be able to feel vacuum resistance that let's off quickly.  The slide should not just rise up in the venturi without any resistance. If one of the two slides doesn't function as the other does.  You will want to inspect both of them to discover the delta.  Typically a tear in the CV boot OR gummy fuel buildup along the perimeter of the slide or the bore of the slide block can be the cause of this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Number 7 in Image 2 - You will want to inspect your diaphragm for the CV carb for any tears or punctures.  You can roll the rubber across your finger to inspect for a split.  You can also use a liquid to see if you have a hole and allow the slide to sit with the diaphragm upright.  A tear in the CV diaphragm will cause the engine to run very poorly and act as if it is air starved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Number 11 in Image 2 - This is the slide block where your CV slide fits into.  Check the inner portion of this for rough edges and any gummy buildup.  Clean this surface well as well as the slide to ensure smooth operation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soak Your Carbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the CV weren't the issue then disassembe the carbs completely and soak them in carburetor cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=berryman%20parts%20dip&amp;amp;oq=berryman%20parts%20dip&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0.3319j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can use this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak all of the components, not more than 20 minutes.  Turn them over every couple of minutes so air can escape any galley's or jets and get soaked. It will strip paint if you have the black carburetors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a carburetor cleaner with small hose that can get into jets and galleys and squirt out every single one you can find in both directions.  If you discover blockage use a think piece of a copper wire to push the blockage aside.  Look through your jets into a light to ensure the entire diameter of the hole is open.  Follow this up with compressed air and another round of carburetor cleaner with the small tube that can access small holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being extra anal with get out any blockage and get fuel flowing again.  Be patient and take your time.  You can't clean it enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time that the motorcycle sat is the real issue and there is most certainly remnants of bad evaporated fuel in the carburetor.  The remnant is called varnish and can be difficult to dissolve.  Dipping the carburetors in the parts cleaner will really help you in getting to where you need them to be.  Using the carburetor cleaner with the compressed air afterward should get out any unwanted debris from the plethora of galleys and jets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure you use a fuel filter between the tank and the carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are two images of your carbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9qaW.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9qaW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u96Sj.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u96Sj.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:32:08.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:32:08.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="982" CreationDate="2016-02-21T01:39:04.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bottom of the oil pan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the CB series of motorcycles use a wet sump lubrication system and have an oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your model specifically it is in the center of the oil pain and just a bit obstructed by the exhaust pipes.  You will need an extension and a 17mm socket to get to the drain bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drain bolt has a magnet, so you can check to see if there is any metal on magnet when you change the oil.  A sign there may be issues if you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque Speck for Drain Bolt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45Nm, or 33ft-lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:39:04.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2016-02-21T02:04:38.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Valve Seats Are Scarred and Damaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is your biggest issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your valve seals the combustion chamber on the valves face and the valve seat.  The valve seat is in your combustion chamber.  You can see the cleaner line where the valve face hits the seat when the engine is running.  This seat needs to be perfect and the dings in the seat may be too deep to cut away, it's hard to tell in the photo. If you can cut new seats into them you will need some tools and patience and probably a few questions will need to be answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the surface, you can press them out of the head and get new ones inserted or you can cut the current seats back into shape and see if that will 'make it better'.  Getting the old ones pressed out will probably need to be done by a machine shop.  Re-cutting the current seats will require a valve seat cutter and guide pin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would cut in new seats and lap in new valves with valve lapping compound once the seats are re-cut.  The entire process is too much to write here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=valve%20seat%20cutter&amp;amp;oq=valve%20seat%20cutter&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0l6.2655j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See here for various valve seat cutters to get an idea.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combustion Chamber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your engine is a pretty low RPM low compression engine in the grand scheme of things.  This is good as a higher compression engine would need to have this head thrown in the trash.  You need to get any sharp edges sanded down.  You don't use a hone for this kind of work.  A hone is for the ID of a cylinder.  Use 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a wire brush on the end of a drill.  Put an old sparkplug in to protect the threads inside the sparkplug hole.  You'll throw it away when your done so use an old one.  Just ensure there are no sharp edges that can get overly hot during engine operation and start to glow, this will cause predetonation and require you to disassemble and find the 'hot spot' in your combustion chamber if you don't do the job right the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:26:49.637" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:26:49.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T02:45:52.640" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban with a 350 engine it has oil in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has over 200000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15229" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T02:58:45.317" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T02:58:45.317" Title="I have oil in the coolant of my Suburban what is the cause?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|suburban|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-02-21T10:44:35.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T03:46:02.350" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of people who drive our Van Toyota Sienna 2014 has the habit of turning OFF all of the internal controls by counterclockwise turning the ignition key. This is to say, before turning the engine off and getting out of the car, she has the Air Conditioning ON, the CD Player or Radio ON, the windshield wipers ON.. and instead of pressing the Power Buttons for each of these features, she relies on the turning counterclockwise the ignition key. According to my own lights, that's not okay. In fact, I find it annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you tell me what kind of effects(vehicle maintenance or lifespan) should we expect as a result of this habit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the Power Buttons were installed inside the vehicle for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&#xA;Ruy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15230" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T04:30:54.813" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T13:27:48.380" Title="What's the vehicle lifespan effect when turning systems off by using the ignition key?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|sienna|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26331" CreationDate="2016-02-21T03:48:49.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you turn the ignition to the off position the power to your vehicle's accessories is disconnected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T03:48:49.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26335" CreationDate="2016-02-21T04:07:01.460" Score="5" ViewCount="1950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just curious where my engine air filter is taking air from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of my car's (Toyota Vitz 2007) engine (not a picture of my exact engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOcet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOcet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I can see, the air filter should take air from the place I have circled in red. If I block air intake with my hand, engine doesn't even seem to notice it. If it was actually the place the engine takes air from, I would expect the engine to stall when I block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So isn't this the place where the air filter draws air from? If it is, why didn't engine stall when I block it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T13:10:36.437" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T13:10:36.437" Title="Where does the Toyota Vitz air intake take air from?" Tags="|toyota|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26331" CreationDate="2016-02-21T06:19:07.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ignition key is a quite complex switch mechanism and automotive manufactures design it that way to fool proof the system. Switching off the ignition (to the point of taking the key out) will disconnect the battery from all non-essential equipment in the car (essentials being the clock, alarm system etc.). Hence, there is no damage that really occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aspect to keep in mind is that it is possible to accidentally turn off the music system with the volume all the way up. Turning the car on might blast the speakers bringing the life of the speakers down over the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something not relevant but you would like to know is that, when you turn the key (or push a button) to crank the engine, all electronics are generally momentarily turned off to allow the starter motor to use the power of the battery. (This is not the case with some newer cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T06:19:07.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26333" CreationDate="2016-02-21T06:23:41.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Logically, yes. Putting your hand there, should make the engine struggle but because the pressure inside drops so much when you put your hand there, the air is sucked in through gaps in the air filter housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, your engine is probably running better (maybe) because you placing your hand there doesn't entirely kill the engine but simply makes the air-fuel ratio rich (this makes the engine smile). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not feel any suction on your hand at all then you simply have your hand in the wrong place (which, by the looks of it, is not the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T06:23:41.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26284" CreationDate="2016-02-21T07:56:56.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is common to measure engine temperature at the coolant, however newer systems that are more accurate are taking their place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the coolant temperature can vary, the engine is maintained at a constant 93 degrees celsius. This is because, combustion and lubrication is at the most optimum at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect on the engine due to the concentrated anti-freeze depends on two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Type of anti-freeze. High grade anti-freeze will have a specific heat capacity that is close to that of the coolant itself and therefor will not effect your engine temperature much (Just your wallet).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cooling mechanism used by the car. If your cooling mechanism is such that it maintains constant cooling rate, then an anti-freeze that is not of sufficient quality will be ineffective in cooling the engine. If however the cooling rate changes with change in engine load then it should still be fine. &#xA;Cheaper quality anti freeze will make the cooling mechanism to work harder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastEditorUserId="15232" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T06:30:57.073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T06:30:57.073" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26331" CreationDate="2016-02-21T08:38:49.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that it makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No damage will be caused.  No extra maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact you will probably find that the majority of people do exactly what this person does.  Doing it like that ensures that everything comes back on just as you left it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power buttons are there for a reason, to allow you to choose what is on and off individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T08:38:49.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T09:12:13.860" Score="1" ViewCount="11479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Tazz 2e engine that has oil leaking what appears to be I thought was the rear main seal, but now notice form the top below intake and above water pipes above bell housing joining the engine. Could it be the rear main throwing oil up or an engine leak? It seems to happen during driving or gear changing and not noticed when idling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15235" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T10:41:08.827" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T05:46:39.463" Title="Tazz 2e oil leak coming from" Tags="|toyota|oil-leak|corolla|tazz|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26284" CreationDate="2016-02-21T10:59:03.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Orthodox antifreeze is based on ethelyne Glycol. It does depress the freezing point and raise the boiling point of the cooling system. This is desirable and the suggested concentration is roughly proportional to how cold you think it's going to get. As a coolant, water just can't be beaten so that's why it's still used on the internal combustion engine over 100 years later. In other words, a 100% glycol system would be likely to overheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is the water pump's ability to pump glycol when it's designed to pump water. Even on the Nissan Leaf which is fully electric and as a rule of thumb needs a tenth the cooling of an internal combustion car, there is a mixture of glycol and distilled water. The glycol concentration is higher than 'normal&quot;. The design incentive to use pure non conducting glycol for the high voltage power electronics is great but they have added water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T07:17:10.270" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T07:17:10.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26343" CreationDate="2016-02-21T11:29:39.947" Score="6" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was raining yesterday and I noticed the typical rainbow colouring of some of the water around my car. Couldn't tell there and then if it was a car body fluid leak or just the water going trough the engine and getting contaminated. Decided to move it, as I started it and moved it, when I got back to parking spot, rainbow coloured water was left behind, under the exhaust, under the exact middle of the car, and under the engine. Some 12 hours passed, the rain stopped, I went to check it, there was still rainbow colouring, had a drive around the neighbourhood, eventually a shiny trail I  could see in my mirror disappeared (hence if it was accumulated water somewhere, it went away) I popped the hood and this is what's bothering me &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/zCSc1ZGQ35LDjabj6&quot;&gt;(google photos album)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board computer claims &quot;OIL OK&quot; on engine start, and so does visual inspection of the dip stick (plenty of oil . I have a short outing later, and this will give me the perfect opportunity to monitor the oil further, but any advice is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: C4 petrol 2005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T11:43:02.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T11:55:49.873" Title="Oil leakage or normal engine procedures" Tags="|engine|oil|oil-leak|citroen|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26342" CreationDate="2016-02-21T11:55:49.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46723&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, it appears your issue is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; common issue with your engine type. There is a main oil galley which runs right up through that corner of the head. This feeds the various parts in the head which need oil. The head gasket tends to fail right at this corner, so you'll see oil leakage. With that in mind, you'll most likely need to get your head gasket replaced and possibly get your head machined (if needed ... your mechanic/machine shop can tell your for sure) to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be (remote chance) that the front cam seals have gone bad or that the valve cover gasket is leaking. These are highly unlikely, but would be good to check out before you go to the expense of changing the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also of note, if this minor leak doesn't bother you, you won't kill your engine by letting it leak. You'd just have to keep an eye on the oil levels to ensure the engine has enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T11:55:49.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T12:27:18.387" Score="3" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Ford Fiesta 1.6i.  The car heats up and builds pressure in the water bottle that causes the cap to pop open and boiling water to come out.   I have taken it to Rord where they have done a pressure test on the block and there's no problems. They have checked the thermostat and no problem there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could be the cause of the water bottle cap popping off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give me some insight on what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15238" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T18:15:09.663" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:15:09.663" Title="Waterbottle cap still poping off" Tags="|ford|cooling-system|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26331" CreationDate="2016-02-21T13:27:48.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is annoying but generally harmless and won't affect the life of the vehicle or accessories.  However, the one exception to this is the windshield wipers.  If the car is turned off while they are in mid-wipe, they won't be at their &quot;park&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even this is generally harmless, unless you live in an area where the wipers might freeze to the windshield overnight.  Now starting the car, even with the wiper switch in the &quot;off&quot; position, will cause the wipers to attempt to go to the park position.  But they're frozen to the windshield and can't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this happen, and the result was a severely bent wiper blade making the car undriveable on salty-wet roads until a new wiper blade was installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, this could be avoided by putting the wipers up when parking the car in snow and freezing rain, or making sure that the wipers aren't stuck before starting the car.  So it's really a winter weather problem that can be compounded by leaving the wipers on when turning the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T13:27:48.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26307" CreationDate="2016-02-21T13:45:37.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you already have different tread depths on different brand tires on the front axle, replacing the single worn tire with a new tire won't be significantly different than what you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have typically done in such situations is buy a new pair of tires to replace the front tires, and save the better used tire and mount it on a used wheel to make a cheap full-size spare.  The one caveat to this approach is that this will set up a situation where the front axle has more traction than the back axle.  If your car is old enough that it doesn't have ABS, then the rear axle will lock up first and try to pass the front axle under heavy braking.  That can be solved by rotating the new tires to the rear and the used tires to the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, as another answer suggested, you can buy a used tire that's similar to the other front tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T13:45:37.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26318" CreationDate="2016-02-21T16:04:37.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you car has the original distributor with points.  If during your testing of current drain with the ignition on, the points happened to be closed, then the ignition coil will be getting powered from the battery via the ballast resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rough calculation R=V/I would show the resistance of the circuit = 12/2.5 = 4.8 ohms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds a reasonable resistance for the ballast resistor and HT coil, so I would say that the current draw is roughly correct.  You need to try doing your test with the points open to check that the current then drops, to nearly zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T16:04:37.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26344" CreationDate="2016-02-21T17:21:22.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe cap or reservoir  has fractures inside and you don't notice it. When the pressure increases (which is normal) damaged teeth can't withstand that load. Try to change your water reservoir and it's cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15239" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:21:22.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26350" CreationDate="2016-02-21T18:22:46.820" Score="5" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH. I am looking at the coolant reserve tank. There are no min / max fill lines visible, although the manual says there should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just re-adding coolant after fixing a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for rough min / max levels in the reserve tank if there aren't any clear markings? Or does anybody know what it should be specifically for this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really remove the tank easily to look for markings, and I didn't see anything in pictures of the tanks on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T18:39:28.433" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:43:52.013" Title="Min/max fill for coolant reserve/overflow tank in abscence of markings" Tags="|honda|coolant|cooling-system|prelude|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26349" CreationDate="2016-02-21T18:43:52.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of your coolant recovery tank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEEqU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEEqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look on the right side of it, you'll see the two lines there on the outside. Those are your min/max lines. Hopefully you can align this with what is in your vehicle to get a good understanding of where it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:43:52.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26303" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:06:06.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are loosing coolant, it has to be going somewhere.  You are either leaking it or burning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a radiator test kit to help determine where the leak is.  Basically you put a small pump on your radiator, add some air to increase the pressure to about 15 psi, and look/listen for leaks.  Listen in the valve cover and cylinder hole to determine if it is a head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you can start your car and let it heat up.  While it is nice and hot with good pressure in the system, look for a leak.  Since you say you do not see a leak, pay special attention to coolant hoses on the back of the engine.  There should be some coolant lines going to the intake somewhere.  Be sure to look closely at those and any gaskets.  Leaks on the back of the engine may not be obvious if you aren't looking right at them.  You may need a mirror to see everything.  It is also possible is it leaking at your water pump.  I believe this is connected to your timing belt, so this may be difficult to see.  Certainly look around the timing belt area and crank pulley for wetness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check your head gasket is to do a compression test  each cylinder should be within 10% of the others and at least 120psi.  This will not test if you have a break between coolant and oil, but since you do not have milky oil, it is unlikely it has blown in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T19:06:06.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26354" CreationDate="2016-02-21T19:30:10.077" Score="2" ViewCount="972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2008 has 96,000 mile .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive, it doesn't really shake but when I stop at red light and the Geralyn drive it shakes a lot I have checked all the engine mount and the transmission as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything looks good and I did a tuneup for the car and I changed the spark plugs and it's still shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to get rid of this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15240" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T20:07:43.453" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T14:44:36.927" Title="Mitsubishi eclipse convertible 2008 shaking problem" Tags="|rough-idle|mitsubishi|shaking|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26353" CreationDate="2016-02-21T20:11:01.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say that it shakes when you stop at a red light, based on the context, I'm assuming that you mean when the car is fully stopped and the engine is idling.  (If I'm mistaken about that and you mean that it shakes as it comes to a stop, I'd suspect a warped brake rotor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess that the engine is running poorly at idle after the engine is warmed up.  This is a symptom for many kinds of problems, but three that come to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vacuum leak - somewhere, if a vacuum line is cracked or hose disconnected, you will often get poor/rough idle as a result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MAF sensor problem - the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air coming into the engine so that it can be mixed with the right amount of fuel.  If the MAF sensor is not working correctly (for example, if it doesn't move freely due to dust, dirt or oil) the sensor readings won't be accurate and the engine will run poorly, including at idle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked air plenum - if the air plenum is cracked between the MAF sensor and the engine, the symptoms will be similar to the above but for a different reason.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't said if you have tried to use an OBD scanner tool on it.  That would help diagnose this if you have or can borrow one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T20:11:01.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26297" CreationDate="2016-02-21T22:26:53.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am correct, the CMP signal is generated by the ICM, the engine doesn't actually have a cam position sensor.  The ICM monitors the difference in voltages on the HT coils to work out which cylinders are on the compression cycle.  This will explain why the CMP and CKP signals are shifting relative to each other.  The synthesised CMP signal is sent to the PCM to allow the PCM to generate the ignition timing signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably the ICM must have developed a fault in the circuitry that generates the CMP signal which was then confusing the PCM and causing the shortened ignition pulse.  This then led to the misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T22:26:53.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T03:05:21.060" Score="6" ViewCount="9264" Body="&lt;p&gt;1990 Chevrolet 1500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me and my neighbor just put a new clutch and a pressure plate in and about 2 weeks ago I put a bottom slave cylinder on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with my clutch engaging as well as going into gear while running we just replaced clutch and pressure plate. It won't go all the way down to the floor to put in gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's finally down to shift gears it won't to go in gear at all.  Only when the truck is running.  Now when the engine is off it goes into gear just fine but clutch peddle still is hard to press down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15248" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T09:52:43.903" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:51:10.927" Title="My clutch won't engage all the way down" Tags="|chevrolet|clutch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T04:47:24.443" Score="3" ViewCount="1815" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I top off my gas (till the pump shuts off) fuel spurts out. It also wants to stall out when I turn it on. It happens more if I fill it up from empty, but still  happens when I fill it from half a tank, which is what I usually do. I use the same grade every time on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ with 4.0 liter L6 (I6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15249" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T05:10:55.063" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T10:50:20.837" Title="Engine stalls out when I top off my jeep with gas" Tags="|jeep|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26371" CreationDate="2016-02-22T05:05:25.367" Score="6" ViewCount="3777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with the L4 5S-FE engine. The car has 140k miles on it. When I first start it, the alternator whines fairly loudly. I narrowed it down by ear, then used the typical stethoscope and it sounds like a bearing in the alternator. (The whine is audible in the stethoscope when the tip is placed on the housing of the alternator)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspected the alternator was on the way out as coming to lights behind other cars, I noticed that once the car settled down to it's idle RPM the headlights would dim somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: The noise is pretty bad when the car is first started, but gets quieter as the car warms up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking that the alternator could be on the way out I tested the voltage at the battery under various engine RPM as well as when the engine is off. Here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine off: 13.85 VDC (just the battery voltage, so the battery is healthy and charged). The table and chart list a high and low voltage because even without any RPM change, the voltage varied between these values. Probably from various things pulling current on and off. I didn't use an oscilloscope so I did not note any patterns in the variations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/firEk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/firEk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alternator output vs RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the curve a healthy one for an alternator? (Keeping in mind the headlights were on low beam during the test as well as all marker lights)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the whine my early warning that one of the bearings in the alternator is going and I need to be prepared to replace it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I realize no one has a crystal ball, but is there is typical time frame from the time the noise starts until I'm left stranded?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How serious is that 1/2 volt jump between 500 and 1000 RPM?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T05:12:24.323" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:49:35.780" Title="Alternator whines when it's cold, 2000 Toyota Camry (5S-FE engine)" Tags="|noise|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26360" CreationDate="2016-02-22T07:59:29.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have an air lock. (Don't hold me to it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T07:59:29.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26552" CreationDate="2016-02-22T09:05:49.133" Score="14" ViewCount="4072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the step by step troubleshooting procedure for discovering the source of  oil appearing in coolant.  There are several different points of failure that can be the root cause for oil in coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the various points in an engine that could be the source of oil appearing in coolant?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do I rule out various sources of oil in coolant?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What kind of tools do I need to troubleshoot the source of oil in coolant?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do I use those tools to determine the source of oil in coolant?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T20:58:18.340" Title="How do I troubleshoot the source of oil in my coolant?" Tags="|engine|oil|coolant|troubleshooting|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26360" CreationDate="2016-02-22T10:50:20.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the filler neck is a fuel breather pipe which allows the tank to vent air otherwise trapped when the fuel level is topped up.  It may be that a breather pipe has become blocked.  This can mean that fuel in the tank is effectively being held in a slight vacuum making the fuel pumps job harder and starving the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good way to check this is, if the vehicle stalls (or near stalls), quickly remove the fuel cap and listen for a hissing of air rushing across the neck of the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T10:50:20.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22671" CreationDate="2016-02-22T11:02:57.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old alternators on old 1960s cars were great. They were much better than the generators that they replaced. Generators needed current limiting which was generally done with electromechanical regulators made by companies like say Lucas UK or Delco USA. A generator would burn up charging a flat battery if it did not have current limiting or if the often temperamental         regulator malfunctioned. This is because the generator has a very low output impedance meaning that there is not much intrinsic current limiting. Now the old alternator had a higher output impedance meaning that current limiting was not needed. In other words the old alternator was more idiot proof then the generator. Auto sparkie polytech courses stated that &quot;You don't need current limiting with an alternator.&quot; I agreed with the tutors, but that was when I was thin and had thick hair. Many modern alternators especially Japanese get much more power out of a smaller size. They have reduced the output impedance to allow more current to flow when needed.So if you overload your car with accessories you can blow up your alternator these days. If you filled say a 1965 Studebaker with accessories you would just get a flat battery. Also you can blow a modern alternator when charging a flat battery or even when fitting a much larger battery to the car. These things just don't happen with 1960s cars.Some modern alternators have a thermal back off which throttles the current down as the copper gets too hot which gets around the problem without having to go back to the 1960s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T15:37:13.733" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:37:13.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15164" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:04:27.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This just happened to me.  2011 toyota camry.  Installed the pads backwards on one of my tires.  It was easy to make the mistake, also was easy to fix it.  Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15256" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T14:04:27.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26392" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:38:59.667" Score="7" ViewCount="5721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got in a car accident because my brakes failed to work. It felt as if when I pressed them, they had slipped.&#xA;I tested the brakes after-the-fact to see what the problem was, and this problem happened 2/5 times I pressed the brakes. The other 3 times they worked fine. It's not my pads or rotors, because I just changed those.&#xA;What is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 2005 Hyundai Accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15136" LastEditorUserId="15136" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T14:45:46.540" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T15:33:01.933" Title="Brakes Slipping/malfunctioning" Tags="|brakes|braking|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:57:49.333" Score="12" ViewCount="17793" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow up question to my initial question which can be found here : &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24494/ltft-and-stft-values-are-off-and-dont-make-sense&quot;&gt;LTFT and STFT values are off and don&amp;#39;t make sense&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2015 F10 M5&#xA;Mods : Cold air intake, aftermarket rear muffler (just section 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since posting the initial question, I have done a lot of research, learned a lot about the car and figured out what the problem was. The problem is, the conclusion I come to makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let me summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After doing several test drives, I now know that stock M5 from the factory has a 7-10% fuel trim variation between its both banks. I have confirmed this after driving 3 different cars built in different years. All these cars had Bank 1 running up to +10-12% and Bank 2 usually around +2% to 0%. So the issue in my car since day 1 had nothing to do with only one side. Why this is the case, I dont know, but I can speculate. The engine in this car is not symmetrically positioned. In other words, one side is lower than the other side (tilted) and everything is also slightly shifted (probably to make room). Intercoolers, wastegates, etc is all positioned slightly asymmetrical. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel issue I had was, my car was running -4% and -15% in bank 1 and bank 2. So compared to factory, that is 15% rich which is significant. This issue would happen mostly around idle and low rpms (below 4000). Highway mileage on my car (because you always drive on 7th gear and lowest rpm while cruising) was also impacted where I would barely maintain 19 mpg vs now I can easily keep 23. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After removing my cold air intake, fuel trims immediately went back to factory values. Now I am getting 10% bank 1 and 0% bank 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have done multiple factory fuel trim adaptation resets before and after swapping intakes to confirm that none of these values are false positives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With factory software ISTA, I see that with my cold air intake, multiplicative mixture adaptation read 0.96 bank 1 and 0.85 bank 2. With stock intake, it reads 1.0 bank 1 and 1.10 bank 2. So i can confirm that my obdii tool and software I use (kiwi and dashcommand) accurately reports these values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With factory intake I feel the car has more punch in low rpms (higher low end torque) but significantly less power at higher rpms. Car was pulling much stronger with the cold air intake at high rpm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now after all of this, I am puzzled and this is driving me insane. How can a cold air intake cause a rich condition? Arent cold air intakes supposed to cause a lean condition not rich? Is there a plausible explanation to all of this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, is running cold air intake in my case going to have very long term effects? I want to keep this car for another 7-10 years. If the car was running 15% richer compared to stock, isnt that very bad (for injectors, coils, plugs, or just the engine itself) ? Or is this some software hoax somewhere? It is mind boggling to me because a cold air intake should not make a car run 15% rich. That is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T09:45:41.317" Title="Cold air intake causing rich condition" Tags="|engine|bmw|air-intake|fuel-trims|m5|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26254" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:10:40.370" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very likely a battery issue.  Put your battery on a battery tender and trickle charge it back to full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Make sure you remove it from your bike first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15257" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T16:28:26.770" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T16:28:26.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:17:56.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common storage problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dead battery - it should have been on a charger or tender while the bike was in storage.  You're probably going to need a new one.  This is especially the case if it was stored in a cold climate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel is bad.  Drain it and replace.  Should have been stored with a fuel stabilizer added.  Some people will tell you to try and use an additive like Sea Foam if your fuel is bad - but believe me, the best idea is to drain it and use a high-octane tankful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbs are gummed up.  They may need to be cleaned out thoroughly, or even rebuilt/re-jetted.  Simplest thing to try here is to spray their insides with a strong carb cleaner to remove any residue.  If you use cheap ass fuel in your bike, then this will be a likely culprit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A less-likely scenario is an issue with the electrical system outside of the battery being dead.  This can be problems like worn spark plugs (youtube how to check for bad plugs, there are a lot of videos), or even mice eating away at the electrical backbone (true story, I've seen it often in cases where bikes are stored in a shed or a barn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a start at least. Sounds like 1 &amp;amp; 2 are accounted for.  Check the carbs.  That'd be my guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15257" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:17:56.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26361" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:49:35.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the curve a healthy one for an alternator? (Keeping in mind the headlights were on low beam during the test as well as all marker lights)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider this about normal and quite healthy for voltage output. You'd expect the voltage to go up somewhat with the increase in RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the whine my early warning that one of the bearings in the alternator is going and I need to be prepared to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering what you've described, I think this is a good bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I realize no one has a crystal ball, but is there is typical time frame from the time the noise starts until I'm left stranded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could last another 10 miles or another 100k miles. Some alternators become noisy and die. Some become noisy and live forever. I'd suggest you shoot for the early mark and get this thing replaced. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; leave you stranded at the most inopportune time, just plan on it. There is no crystal ball, like you said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, depending on the manufacturer, you may be able to purchase the bushings/bearings for yourself and replace them. In most cases it really isn't a hard job to do and can be accomplished with a decent set of hand tools. Considering how well the alternator is producing the juice, this may be a good alternative to buying a new or reconditioned alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How serious is that 1/2 volt jump between 500 and 1000 RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would seem fairly normal to me. Alternators are designed to run at operating RPM (above 1000 RPM). It seems to be putting out good voltage even at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:49:35.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26368" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:50:55.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @JPhi1618 that it is related to the MAF sensor. From the picture you provided in your comment, it appears your (really good looking) MSR intake comes with its own MAF sensor housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too am unfamiliar with this car, but the MAF housing on your new intake is likely a different diameter than the OEM housing. This causes problems, as your OEM MAF sensor is programmed to read the volumetric flow rate (Q = flow velocity x cross-sectional area) for that specific tube diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the location of the MAF sensor in your new intake has a smaller cross-sectional area than the OEM MAF housing, your MAF sensor would be reading a higher flow velocity for the same amount of air. With the MAF sensor claiming it's getting a high flow rate, the ECU will compensate by dumping more fuel into the engine, causing the rich condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check to see if MSR sells a different set of MAF sensors, or look into getting aftermarket MAFs and have them tuned to match your new intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:50:55.450" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:57:34.240" Score="2" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car keeps over heating when I get on the freeway. It's fine on city streets. I put antifreeze in it.  It seems like it runs out kind of fast but I havent noticed any leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15258" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T21:37:20.437" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:37:20.437" Title="98 Mercedes ML 320 - Overheating Issue" Tags="|mercedes-benz|overheating|ml320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26358" CreationDate="2016-02-22T16:04:41.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you need to bleed the clutch hydraulics. If they are too spongy from having air int he system, it won't allow the clutch to become fully released, which allows the friction disk to drag on the flywheel and pressure plate. This means the front half of the transmission is stills pinning and the rear half is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to bleed the hydraulics. I'd suggest you do both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the unit off as a whole (master/slave/hose) and suspend it from the master. This will allow any air in the line to travel to the top. You'll want to leave it suspended like this for a couple of hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some hydraulic setups will allow you to pump the heck out of them to bleed the air out of the lines. You may also have a bleeder in the slave. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, work on it and see if there is air in the system. If your master ever went dry while putting the slave on, you should probably have bench bled it. Doing the second item above should work the air out of the system while it's on the vehicle. You also want to ensure your master stays up to the top with fluid. Most take just DOT3/4 brake fluid. I'd doubt, considering the year/make of your vehicle it's tied in with the brake reservoir, but that could be a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T16:04:41.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26398" CreationDate="2016-02-22T16:44:45.593" Score="9" ViewCount="32619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting exhausted by the ongoing news that airbag inflators can malfunction and explode, injuring the driver and front passenger. Most worrying is that nothing in the news says that the replacement parts are perfectly safe (or even close).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not that long ago that airbags were a feature reserved for luxury cars. With time airbags became standard on what seems like all cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be quite content to remove this safety feature from my car. There is a recall on my car, but I'm so far ignoring it. Is disabling, or even removing, the two inflators a task that an amateur can tackle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, do you have experience making such a request at a dealership? Is there anything in the books that would make them decline such a request?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some information regarding the last part of the question. Disabling the airbag is legal, at least in some jurisdictions. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehiclesafety/tp-tp13178-page1_e-181.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, from Transport Canada, indicates that they allow drivers to install a switch that turns off airbag inflators. They recommend against such a switch. Installing a switch is a better solution than simply cutting off the power supply and/or control circuity of the airbag inflators, and I suspect it raises the caliber of the technician needed for this task from an amateur to a pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T20:56:59.647" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T18:10:16.313" Title="Is disabling the airbag inflators a task that an amateur can tackle?" Tags="|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26373" CreationDate="2016-02-22T16:54:54.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheating on the highway is likely due to a clog in the system, or a pinhole leak.  Since your adding, I would say there is a leak somewhere.  This leak is either going to be a hole in a hose, cracked radiator or leaking gasket (thermostat gasket, head gasket, etc.).  If it is a head gasket, your exhaust will smoke a bit more than normal and will smell like coolant.  I have had several leaks (radiator hose, crack in radiator) that I was only able to see after the engine was overheating.  You want to look for signs of coolant that has sprayed and dried.  Right when you get home from a drive, pop the hood and look for anything wet where coolant might had recently sprayed.  You can also pressurize the coolant system with a radiator pressure tester and watch for leaks.  Another thing you can try is to feel the radiator to see if there are cold spots.  Cold spots mean there is a clog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T16:54:54.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:01:34.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not suggesting you do this, just giving my experience from replacing airbags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with this vehicle specifically, but I have changed the airbag on a couple older cars (early 90's).  In the cars I worked on, the airbags were plugged into the car's wiring harness, I could simply unplug them.  This will throw the airbag diagnostic light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:01:34.077" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:03:38.783" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all varies on a car by car basis, some cars have wires you can disconnect under the seats/pedals and some you have to take the housing that encloses the wires inside the steering wheel column off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would also be worth mentioning that disabling your airbags is classed as a modification and if you had a crash and your insurers looked into why your airbags didn't go off and discovered you disabled them then your insurance would be null and void&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:03:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26379" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:41:34.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a mid-size SUV produced by the American manufacturer Jeep. While some other SUVs were manufactured with body-on-frame construction, the Jeep Grand Cherokee has always used a unibody chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Grand Cherokee's origins date back to 1983 when American Motors Corporation (AMC) was designing a successor to the smaller Jeep Cherokee (XJ). Three outside (non-AMC) designers—Larry Shinoda, Alain Clenet, and Giorgetto Giugiaro—were also under contract with AMC to create and build a clay model of the Cherokee XJ replacement, then known as the &quot;XJC&quot; project. However, the basic design for the Cherokee's replacement was well under way by AMC's in-house designers and the 1989 Jeep Concept 1 show car foretold the basic design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As AMC began development of the next Jeep in 1985, management created a business process that is now known as product lifecycle management (PLM). According to François Castaing, Vice President for Product Engineering and Development, the smallest U.S. automaker was looking for a way to speed up its product development process to compete better against its larger competitors. The XJC's development was aided by computer-aided design (CAD) software systems making the engineers more productive while new communication systems allowed potential conflicts to be resolved faster, thus reducing costly engineering changes because all drawings and documents were in a central database. The system was so effective that after Chrysler purchased AMC in 1987, it expanded the system throughout its enterprise, thus connecting everyone involved in designing and building products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jnklo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jnklo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jeep Grand Cherokee Fourth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Jeep Grand Cherokee Fourth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:15:19.560" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T19:15:19.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26380" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:41:34.973" Score="0" Body="The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a mid-size SUV produced by the American manufacturer Jeep." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:15:11.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T19:15:11.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26381" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:44:22.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mitsubishi Lancer is a compact car produced by the Japanese manufacturer Mitsubishi since 1973. It has been known as the Colt Lancer, Dodge/Plymouth Colt, Chrysler Valiant Lancer, Chrysler Lancer, Eagle Summit, Hindustan Lancer, Soueast Lioncel, and Mitsubishi Mirage in various countries at different times, and has been sold as the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis in Japan since 2007. It has also been sold as Mitsubishi Lancer Fortis in Taiwan with a different facelift than the Galant Fortis. In Japan, it was sold at a specific retail chain called Car Plaza. The Lancer derives its name from the term given to a soldier of cavalry regiment armed with a lance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between its introduction in 1973 and 2008, over six million units had been sold. According to Mitsubishi, there were nine generations of development before the current model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QhRpb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QhRpb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2007 Mitsubishi Lancer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2007 Mitsubishi Lancer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Lancer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:15:24.717" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T19:15:24.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26382" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:44:22.690" Score="0" Body="The Mitsubishi Lancer is a compact car produced by the Japanese manufacturer Mitsubishi since 1973. It has been known as the Colt Lancer, Dodge/Plymouth Colt, Chrysler Valiant Lancer, Chrysler Lancer, Eagle Summit, Hindustan Lancer, Soueast Lioncel, and Mitsubishi Mirage in various countries at different times, and has been sold as the Mitsubishi Galant Fortis in Japan since 2007." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:14:55.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T19:14:55.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26385" CreationDate="2016-02-22T19:21:09.157" Score="9" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;If aftermarket air filters tend to increase the performance of a vehicle, why don't vehicle  manufacturers install something similar that is manufactured by themselves in order to increase performance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do these 'performance enhancing' air filters do damage in the long run? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the primary purpose and benefit of an air filter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15261" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:37:32.180" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T09:21:06.387" Title="Why go for aftermarket air filters?" Tags="|motorcycle|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26390" CreationDate="2016-02-22T19:50:04.120" Score="18" ViewCount="5278" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few head gasket related questions on the site.  Coolant or water in the oil, oil in the coolant or water in a radiator, etc.  I'm thinking that some instruction on howto use a leak down tester is in order.  With that, I am interested in hearing responses related to the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Questions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How do I operate a leak down tester?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Why is there an air pressure regulator on a leak down tester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.  What are some of the issues I can troubleshoot with a leak down tester?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. If I have a blown head gasket where would on the car would I listen for an air leak in order to determine if my head gasket is blown?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T16:05:27.897" Title="What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26383" CreationDate="2016-02-22T19:52:41.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Performance&quot; at all costs isn't what a manufacturer wants.  They want the best, most efficient performance that will still provide the engine a very long lifetime and keep the cost down as much as possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things an aftermarket filter might change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Requires more maintenance (like an &quot;oiled&quot; K&amp;amp;N Filter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could increase engine noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a filter that deletes the air box, you have a higher chance of sucking in water or dirt, and even more sound increase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I guess increased air flow could change fuel economy (guessing for sure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an air filter for?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To provide clean air to the engine of course.  The air box (filter housing) on most cars also provide some safeguards for sucking in water in the form of large splashes from puddles, but the filters only real job is to keep small particles out of the engine, and to not restrict the air flow too much while doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T19:59:00.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T19:59:00.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-22T19:53:10.063" Score="36" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is a recall on my car, but I'm so far ignoring it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a recall on your car. Do not ignore it. This is not a task an amateur can tackle, but an amateur &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; bring their vehicle to their dealer to have the defective parts professionally replaced and the problem solved without compromising vehicle safety or legality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is disabling, or even removing, the two inflators a task that an amateur can tackle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.caranddriver.com/massive-takata-airbag-recall-everything-you-need-to-know-including-full-list-of-affected-vehicles/&quot;&gt;given the relatively low incidence of defective parts&lt;/a&gt; (see also the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehiclesafety/tp-tp13178-page1_e-181.htm&quot;&gt;airbag-related injury note in the article you linked to&lt;/a&gt;, noting also the seriousness of the &quot;Who should consider...&quot; section), combined with other chances, you are replacing an extremely low, albeit highly sensationalized, safety risk (potentially defective airbag) with an extremely high safety risk (no airbag), a high risk of performing the procedure incorrectly, and an extremely high financial risk of voiding your insurance in certain jurisdictions (which also places other vehicles involved in the collision in high financial risk, as well as presents possible difficulties for injured persons seeking medical care). This is not a sensible trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not to say that the defects should be ignored or are not important. However, the solution is to honor the recall to correct the problem while maintaining safety, not to disable safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the choice is yours as are the potential consequences. If you insist on proceeding with what appears to be an &lt;em&gt;objectively&lt;/em&gt; misguided plan, I would first consult the service manual for your specific make and model of vehicle, which will give you the technical details you need, as it will differ per vehicle. You may at least want to inform your passengers that you have disabled their airbags to allow them to make their own informed choice about whether or not to get in the car with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T20:09:44.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:09:44.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26368" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:19:25.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't as scientific an answer as the other post, anyways, from the death throws of my 2000 SAAB 9-3, it is a lean condition.  Oil from your intake filter got sucked onto the heat elements of the MAF, causing the computer to fail to get an accurate temperature reading.  The car is compensating by adding fuel.  This caused a MAF and Ignition Casette to fail years ago but the memory is still fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15262" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:19:25.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26384" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:21:59.020" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How do I operate a leak down tester?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directions differ depending on whether it's a one gage or two gage system. It basically gets down pulling a spark plug, getting that piston to Top Dead Center (TDC), threading the tester into the spark plug hole, hooking up compressed air (at a minimum pressure), bringing the cylinder pressure up to a set amount, and then watching how quickly it comes down again, and if it settles anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Why is there an air pressure regulator on a leak down tester?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put an upper limit on the cylinder pressure, and to allow calibrated readings. The percentage leakdown is only meaningful for a given pressure- meaning you can't compare one cylinder's reading to another if the peak pressure is different, which (without a regulator) would occur from cylinder to cylinder as the air tank runs down (and then builds up again when the compressor runs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. What are some of the issues I can troubleshoot with a leak down tester?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn rings and valves, bad head gaskets and cracked or warped heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. If I have a blown head gasket where would on the car would I listen for an air leak in order to determine if my head gasket is blown?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant system should be monitored carefully for air bubbles as an indication of a bad head and head gasket seal. Unless it's an unusual system, the excess air should come out of the PCV, intake and exhaust systems, never through the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In extreme cases, air might vent to the outside at the head/block juncture. An ungloved hand, or a visual indicator such as talcum powder can be used to verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T16:05:27.897" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T16:05:27.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26384" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:55:50.190" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many leak down testers on the market. You can actually make your own with some hardware store parts and a fish tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Operation of &quot;most&quot; leak down testers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure of operation depends on whether or not you have the cylinder head attached to the engine block or not. If the head is attached, your leak down tester should have an attachment that screws into the spark plug hole. Once fastened you can use your compressed air (usually around 100psi) to fill the the cylinder with air. It's very important to ensure that you have the cylinder that you are testing at TDCC (Top Dead Center Compression). This means that the cylinder is completely sealed and all valves are closed on that particular cylinder, thus giving you a nice platform for testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing with head off&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When testing with the head off you often use a method similar to this. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A26KfDj6wAM&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A26KfDj6wAM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not swear by this method, and the guy seems to take a while to get to the point. So, you can form your own opinion on this. It's more fit for finding cracks on the head, however though I have found that sometimes my leak down tester finds a fault and it turns out to be a cracked head; That can be difficult to diagnose with the engine assembled; Just food for thought =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Pressure Regulator&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use the air pressure regulator for a couple of reasons. Some cars have a higher compression rating than others, so you need to be able to regulate the pressure accordingly. When you're talking about pressure in the cylinder, we have a constant and combustion pressure. You want to be able to test up to your max combustion pressure, but also test a constant pressure that is a bit lower for fine tuned diagnostics. &#xA;The reason for this is that the cylinder is not under CONSTANT 210psi and the cylinder actually jumps up a little more due to fuel and oil lubrication when running. To perform a good leak down test that yields good results, you need to be able to regulate pressure. The valves may be holding at 100psi, but your compression rings on the piston may only hold to 90psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issues you can trouble shoot with a leak down tester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly when using a leak down tester, you'll be troubleshooting an issue with a head gasket, leaking valve seals, and bad piston rings. Essentially anywhere air could rapidly escape from the combustion chamber that wasn't intended when the engine was engineered and that creates an issue while it's running.&#xA;Cracked heads are a different story, as I have seen some leak oil into antifreeze and you wouldn't have known unless you actually pulled the heads off to see the cracks. Thats a different topic of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where to find the leak&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the leak down tester, you want to listen where your oil goes in and your coolant reservoir or cap comes off. This will allow you to audibly hear where exactly the leak is. You should hear a small bubbling noise, or something like that. If the leak is significant, it will most likely bubble up in the radiator or coolant reservoir. If it's bad enough it will hiss loud enough to hear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing this you want to start out at a lower PSI and gradually increase. You also want to leave it to sit for about 30 minutes and see how much it's decreased in pressure. A few PSI isn't anything to worry about if it's an engine with a lot of miles on it. If all of the pressure is gone within 5 minutes, you may have some additional issues that need to be addressed. &#xA;Mainly you want to pay attention to any noise coming from your coolant reservoir or radiator. If you set your pressure on the leak down tester too high, you can actually move air past the piston rings and give a false diagnosis. Keep that in mind. &#xA;Removing the oil pan or drain bolt and listening for hissing is also an option. Have a rag or towel on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T20:55:50.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26368" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:29:37.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that what @JPhi1618 stated is a major factor in your rich condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the different air flow path cause issues for the &lt;code&gt;MAF&lt;/code&gt; which would have been tuned specifically for the stock intake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that this statement that you made to counter I believe not to be true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; BMW uses the same Bosch `MAF` sensor on all turbo cars. I highly doubt they have a way of tuning the MAF sensor&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that while BMW may use the same &lt;code&gt;MAF&lt;/code&gt; sensor in all turbo cars the ecu for each car is tuned differently on the &lt;code&gt;MAF&lt;/code&gt; table and it is adjusted for each different intake setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the changed intake shape, there could also be some other factors at play here. One would be any change in the actual air temp vs reported air temp used in fueling calculations. Let's say for simplicity sake that with the stock intake on, your air temp was reading exactly the same as the real temperature of the air entering the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new intake the temp reading could be different from the air temperature entering the engine. Let's say your sensor is reading ambient air temp but your engine is sucking in hotter air. Your ecu will think its getting denser cold air and dump in a lot of fuel when in reality the air is not that dense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary the following could be causing your rich condition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the change in intake shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a possible air temperature discrepancy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on to your second question about the risk of running rich for a long period of time. I will give a brief explanation of how the fueling logic works and you can decide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First on cold start your car is probably running in open loop mode&#xA;meaning that it is not using the output from the o2 sensors to do any&#xA;fueling calculations it is just looking up a table which knows how&#xA;much air will fit in the engine at a certain rpm and throttle&#xA;position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second when your car is warmed up then it will start using the &lt;code&gt;STFT&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;and &lt;code&gt;LTFT&lt;/code&gt; to augment the table I previously mentioned. So basically&#xA;lets say your value for 100% throttle at 4000 rpms is 100 if your&#xA;&lt;code&gt;LTFT&lt;/code&gt; value for 100% throttle  4000 rpms is -10% then if you were to&#xA;go into that table and take off 10% to make 90 your tune would be&#xA;correct and next time your &lt;code&gt;LTFT&lt;/code&gt; will be 0%. This is an over&#xA;simplification because you don't really want to tune off &lt;code&gt;LTFT&lt;/code&gt; but it&#xA;is basically what is happening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does this mean for your situation? Your ECU is basically saying &quot;I would be running really rich here but I already know to take out x% of the fuel.&quot; I think where you will really have problems is if your &lt;code&gt;LTFT&lt;/code&gt; numbers are not consistent. You also want &lt;code&gt;STFT&lt;/code&gt; close to 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how a lot of people run &lt;code&gt;CAI's&lt;/code&gt; without ever re-tuning their ecu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15265" LastEditorUserId="15265" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T23:03:04.447" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T23:03:04.447" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26367" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:46:42.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of intermittent brake failure is a faulty master cylinder. The master cylinder is similar to a bicycle pump. It moves brake fluid instead of air. Stepping on the brake pedal moves a rod that pushes brake fluid to the wheels. If a seal is failing it may allow brake fluid to seep by it reducing the fluid pressure to the wheels. As an aside if you have it replaced you may be able shift the blame to mechanical failure instead of operator error. It may help avoid a insurance increase or traffic citation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:46:42.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26438" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:47:00.057" Score="6" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to diagnose a fairly insidious electrical issue in a 2001 Honda Prelude SH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: With the ignition off and the headlights off, but the hazard switch on, what should the behavior of the front side marker lights be? Should they be off, solid, or flashing with the hazards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I have the left side on solid and the right side off, unless I also turn on the parking lights, in which case the left side flashes and the right side turns on solid. So, I'm not really sure what's supposed to be happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;suspect&lt;/em&gt; they should be off; I'm looking at electrical diagrams and the marker lights don't seem to be connected to the flasher relay, and off seems to make more sense to me than on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping somebody with this car could observe. I suspect 97-01 will have similar behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T00:55:09.910" Title="Correct behavior of 2001 Prelude front side markers when hazards on" Tags="|honda|lights|prelude|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:48:57.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to remove an airbag. This is not recommended by any vehicle safety standard. In the event that an airbag is to be removed for an &quot;SRS&quot; light diagnoses, there are &quot;SRS&quot; dummy resisters available. There are different resistance values available. You would have to consult your manufacturer for details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTICE:&lt;/strong&gt; There are very specific procedures for removing and disposing of pyrotechnics. Consult your local vehicle manufacturer for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15266" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T00:34:52.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T00:34:52.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26396" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-22T23:55:10.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mazda6 or Mazda 6 (known as the Mazda Atenza in China and Japan) is a large family car produced by the Japanese car manufacturer Mazda since 2002. It replaced the long-serving Mazda Capella (616, 626) in 2002. The Mazda6 has sold over one million units worldwide since its introduction, hitting this sales milestone faster than all previous Mazdas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mazda6 was the first example of the company's new Stylish, Insightful, and Spirited design philosophy followed by the Mazda2 in December 2002, the RX-8 in August 2003, the Mazda3 in January 2004, the Mazda5 in the summer of 2005, the MX-5 in October 2005, and the Mazda CX-7 in November 2006.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJgSP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJgSP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mazda6 Third Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mazda6 Third Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T10:14:44.650" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T10:14:44.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26397" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-22T23:55:10.760" Score="0" Body="The Mazda6 or Mazda 6 (known as the Mazda Atenza in China and Japan) is a large family car produced by the Japanese car manufacturer Mazda since 2002." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T10:14:48.210" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T10:14:48.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-23T00:50:17.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every vehicle I've worked on has had an airbag fuse you can remove from the fuse panel to fully disable the airbag; the repair manuals recommend pulling this fuse when doing any work in the dash area since there's some risk of triggering the airbags to go off while you're working, which could result in serious injury or at least a significant cost to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T00:50:17.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26402" CreationDate="2016-02-23T01:13:16.820" Score="8" ViewCount="4026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 GSXR 600 I'm getting on the road.  I bought an Ohlins rear shock for it and ordered the spring to match my weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out the low/high speed or the rebound/compression dampening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how I adjust all of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rebuild procedure for these shocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do the baseline setup of the shock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T20:16:26.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T15:35:17.910" Title="Ohlins Rear Motorcycle Shock - How do I setup, care for and tune it?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|suzuki|shock-absorber|gsxr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26404" CreationDate="2016-02-23T01:17:50.977" Score="11" ViewCount="6042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 GSXR 600.  I took it for a test drive and the head shakes around 65mph or so and then goes away when I go past that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worse when I'm slowing down without the front brake.  When I slow down with the front brake it's more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an Ohlins steering dampener that came with it but it doesn't seem to help.  I tried with it on and off the bike and couldn't tell the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do I start to figure out why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some obvious things that I can check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T08:04:50.033" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T03:11:09.000" Title="Motorcycle Speed Wobble - How do I figure out the problem?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|suzuki|gsxr|death-wobble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26399" CreationDate="2016-02-23T07:38:31.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overview&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of rebuilding the shock, there are similarities between models but there are unique differences between them that make it impossible to review all of the nuance. I'll only give a high level response to the rebuilding component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't figure out the low/high speed or the rebound/compression dampening.&#xA;  I'm wondering how I adjust all of the that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a very beautiful and nicely printed booklet providing instructions for the various settings, spring selection, maintenance and installation.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oehlins.ch/data/120833485907241-02AshockR&amp;amp;T.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It would look something like this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the model of shock, you indicated you have a nitrogen shock, the location of the setting dials are on the top, the piggyback or the remote bladder on the end of the steel braided line.  See page 7 of the PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compression Dampening - At the top of the shock, the piggyback or remote unit.  High speed compression dampening is always adjusted by the nut with a 12mm wrench or the dial on the higher end models.  The screw in the middle of the dial or the nut is always for low speed dampening.  Turning the screw or nut clockwise always increases the dampening and counter-clockwise always decreases the level of dampening.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rebound Dampening - This is at the bottom of the shock and should be a dial or a nut.  It's wrapped around the piston shaft which moves in and out of the shock body.  It's mounted on the shock body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shock Length - This can be at the top or bottom of the shock depending on the model.  You will see the lock nut pair on the shaft to adjust length.  In the image below it has a blue anodized nut.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spring Pre-load - Adjusted with the very nice spanner wrench that should have come with the shock.  Decreasing spring length increases pre-load and stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1ckS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1ckS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rebuilding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a rebuild procedure for these shocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is.  You can get kits for your model.  Oil seals, bladder, rubber bumper, oil and ball joints.  I always use the Ohlins recommended and branded oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspection points - From the Ohlins website and linked pdf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check ball joints for excessive play - each end of the shock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the piston shaft/rod for leaks and dings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the external reservoir for damages that can restrict the floating piston from moving freely&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excessive wear of rubber components&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check that the shock absorber is securely fastened to the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the hose equipped models for leaks on the hose and inlet plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in general look for dirt building up on oil that may be emerging from the shock itself.  You can get the shock charged at a shop, buying the nitrogen and the equipment to charge it without blowing out the seals is cost prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.wavenetworks.us/manuals//2006%20Ohlins%20Repair%20Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repair Manual for 2006 Models&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  I included  this because I'm going to make the leap you procured from Ebay.  2006 models are cheaper and they made them for your bike and the 750 and 1000.  The differences are in the shim stack and the spring you would get to go along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I do the baseline setup of the shock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a novel within itself.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video.&lt;/a&gt;  This guy does pretty good.  He shows measuring points, sag setup, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have Ohlins forks and are going to stick with stock, see about a cartridge replacement from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racetech.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racetec.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the diagram in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25832/what-are-the-advantages-of-upside-down-forks/25916#25916&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; regarding the cartridge.  The shim stack in the diagram is what makes these USD's tuneable and rebuildeable.  Don't think about the nitrogen charged forks, they're as much as your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a suspension clinic at a track day, they have them at almost all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Take it easy on your first few rides.  The bike will feel different because it is.  Don't hammer through any high speed corners out of the gate.  Take it easy, get a feel, learn more and tweak on it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil Flow Diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a reference for you to get an idea of what you are dealing with regarding oil flow.  If you understand the oil flow then you can begin to understand what you are actually adjusting, which is essentially a needle inside a shim stack.  Think Needle Jet/Jet Needle, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mOdzD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mOdzD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T15:35:17.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19220" CreationDate="2016-02-23T08:19:52.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necroposting:&#xA;I agree that you should probably used the workshop-recommended method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure each shim (without bucket) with a micrometer. Write down the thickness. (there should be a number on the back, but I don't see that on omst of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Write down the thickness of each, and install the shims in the buckets, then install the cams.  Removing and installing the cams is a difficult practice, and can even damage the head, so that process must be minimized. If the cams are removed and reinstalled, lash can change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to get the special valve adjustment tools Toyota recommends (they're less than $40 on amazon), and use those to pop the shims out of valves that are out of spec. (.007 intake, .011 exhaust - ideal settings for 3SFE engine).  Pop the shim out and swap it with one that fits and takes up the additional gap (if it's too loose), or less of it, if too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10562" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T08:19:52.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26400" CreationDate="2016-02-23T08:25:51.587" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle Speed Wobble Troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting speed wobbles can entail looking at quite a bit.  Here are some bullet points on components you need to check on your bike for integrity and proper assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear Wheel Alignment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust your chain properly and ensure the real wheel is in alignment with your front.  Common Issue, the wheels aren't lined up and you feel stable, then at a certain speed you get that oscillation.  Chain adjustment and rear wheel alignment.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle%20chain%20adjustment%20tool&amp;amp;oq=chain%20adjustment%20tool&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.12331j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can get one of these tools.&lt;/a&gt; that will assist you getting the alignment proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steering Head and Forks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the rear of the bike on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle%20swingarm%20stand&amp;amp;oq=motorcycle%20swingarm%20stand&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.7903j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike stand&lt;/a&gt; that lifts the rear of the bike on either side of the swingarm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get clicking out of this test you will need to determine through feel if it's the fork in the slider or the steering head.  I've never seen a speed wobble source be the slider and stanchion but I've heard of it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab the bottom of the front forks and pull the bike toward you and then push the bike away as quickly as possible.  You are trying to feel for a clicking in the steering head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you feel clicking, tighten the steering head spanner nut to factory specs.  If it still clicks, replace the steering head bearing AND the race.  Don't skimp,  It's difficult to get the race out if you do it wrong.  Tap around the edge from the inside using a long tap. Slowly and gently.  If you have to wack it to get it out you will damage the frame. Gentle and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swingarm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most speed wobbles start here oddly enough.  I've fixed more speed wobble issues at the swingarm than at the steering head.  Typically due to bad needle bearing getting water in them, which makes sense.  They are closer to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have someone hold the front brake or use a zip tie on the brake lever to lock the front wheel.  Grab either side of the swingarm and move it from side to side.  A better method would be to use tie downs off the handlebars and secure the bike to either a bike bench or the ground and tighten them down to about half the travel of the forks.  Jack up the bike under the oil pan so the rear wheel is just off the ground.  Try and move the swing arm laterally by pulling on the left and pushing on the right side of it.  Pull, push, pull, push....   Listen for the click.  Best case scenario you take the shock out and do it.  Then do side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of two things.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;  The swingarm shaft isn't torqued properly which allows the swingarm to move back and forth in the frame on the shaft.  Make sure the end caps are on.  They take up about 3-4mm of play.  If they aren't there, get some and put them on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; Reach forward and grab the point closes to the motor on the swingarm and push pull to check you needle bearings.  If you hear a click, that's it.  Replace the needle bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I recommend removing the swingarm shaft and visually inspecting the bearings.  They are prone to water damage and seeing how your bike is now 10 years old I wouldn't be surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same test different shaft.  Push the forks all the way to the right and grab the wheel while someone holds the forks against the stops.  Try and get a clicking out of them.  You will feel it but most likely not hear it.  Do both wheels.  Ensure you get enough leverage to feel the click.  You can press the front of the wheel at it's furthest point away from the motor into the steering stop and press, let go, press, let go on either stop to detect the click.  If you have a little bit of play, replace the wheel bearings.  In fact, if it's used, replace them anyway.  They are cheap.  However, test them first so you know the state of them and if you are making progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel Play on Axle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test you lateral play.  Put the front wheel in the air and see if you get lateral play, do the same with the rear.  If you get any, then the wheels haven't been secured properly.  You have the axle clamping style so follow the procedure to ge the front wheel centered properly if you encounter this.  It's very common.  Do the same with the rear.  If you have lateral play, go through the adjustment procedure for you chain and test again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have play then you need to measure your bushing lengths and ensure they are the right ones for you bike.  People love to use SV, TL and GSXR 1000 bushing on the 600.  Probably from buying bushings at scrap yards.  Use your &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;shop manual&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that you bought for lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You did buy an official Suzuki shop manual, right?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have flat spots, if they aren't round, especially the rear, you may be prone to speed wobbles.  Don't screw around with old tires.  Get new and have them balanced.  Bubble balancing is fine.  I have one at home and have never had an issue.  If you need tire advice, please ask another question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forks Only&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check torque on the triple clamp pinch bolts for both upper and lower triple tree.  Loose bolts there can cause some horrendous speed wobbles the only thing about these type of speed wobbles is that they typically happen under moderate braking into high speed sweepers.  You don't want that one because recovery from it is often getting thrown off the bike.  Why not swap the seals since this thing is 10 years old.  You can change the fork oil AND inspect the bushings at the same time.  I know, it's a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steering Dampener&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You indicated it didn't change a thing.  That means one thing, the source is elsewhere.  You have an adjustment on the end of it.  It's a dial.  Clockwise is more dampening, counter is less.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it off and push the shaft into the body and pull it out.  If it gives resistance it's fine.  If you feel points of no resistance in it when you pull the shaft in and out then you have air in it.  Order a rebuild kit or better yet, send it out.  They are hard to rebuild if you don't have the tools, you can't get air in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my bike I would tear it down, visually inspect all the bearings, replace bearings and races as necessary, clean and lubricate all of the suspension components.  This is just apart of the process for me.  I suggest you take the weekend and do the same.  It's worth and you get to know your bike more intimately as a result.  It will pay dividends and it's proactive.  Think about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, check torque values on all suspension and wheel components.  Clean, lubricate, replace as necessary all bearing associated with wheels and chassis.  Take your time.  From your other posts, you have another bike that's pretty nice.  This one can set for a bit while you sort it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special Tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a special tool to remove the swingarm bolts.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=2005%20suzuki%20gsxr%20600%20swingarm%20tool&amp;amp;oq=2005%20suzuki%20gsxr%20600%20swingarm%20tool&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.14053j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here it is.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque Specs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjkKy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjkKy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T04:18:37.503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T04:18:37.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26393" CreationDate="2016-02-23T10:20:31.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a classic case of a poor connection at a grounding point - as you note in the comments, almost certainly a shared one between the various left-hand lights. Take it off, clean all the surfaces and reassemble and that ought to clear it - it's probably worth cleaning the other connections to the lights as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T10:20:31.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26410" CreationDate="2016-02-23T11:51:07.290" Score="22" ViewCount="77419" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the advantage that the aluminium engines provide over the cast iron engine apart from the fact of rusting and weight reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers like to boast about their all new aluminium engines does this really mean anything to the customer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should i buy a slightly more powerful cast iron engine or the less powerful aluminium engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T11:28:38.910" Title="Aluminium engine vs Cast Iron engine" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26411" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:27:54.060" Score="5" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a SEAT Leon Refference 5-door hatchback while the order is actually queued for 3 months and so not built yet, I'm assuming it is the the latest variant (if there are subclasses?) of MK3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test drive I made in a SEAT Leon Styl 5-door hatchback if I'm remembering correct. I took this picture of it on that trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://fbcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xlf1/v/t34.0-0/p206x206/12767552_1672390689695693_2088658028_n.jpg?oh=efb93f61f6baddbd78c8a963fabc1d26&amp;amp;oe=56CE7AEC&amp;amp;__gda__=1456360019_6ed401e7528500e76b0a5fa5add20f37&quot; alt=&quot;Valid XHTML&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is what I'm expecting my car will be looking like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the last months, every here and there I noticed different looking SEAT Leons driving around or parking somewhere... with 5 doors and hatchback while by appearance their builddate lets me assume they're MK3 aswell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm in fear of the car I'll get delivered is not the one I optical expected. But I actually had no idea what else could specify the serial of the hull. I got the idea there might be a difference between the look of the refference, styl and other variants of the car. While this sounds not logical to me from the point of a car producer. Googling for images of the car while expecting an precise marking related to it made inconsistent results not bringing this further for me, aswell. So now I'm asking here: What are the specifications for a SEAT Leon that describe what kind of look for the hull it will be?&#xA;And sumarized: Will I get the car as I'm expecting it to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15275" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:34:09.807" Title="What are the specifications that describe a change in look (for SEAT Leon)?" Tags="|seat-cars|vehicle-identification|seat-leon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26408" CreationDate="2016-02-23T12:45:03.240" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already stated the main reason for the aluminum blocks which is the weight reduction. It is the same reasoning which has led Ford to produce their F-Series trucks with an aluminum body: weight reduction equates to better fuel economy. Most manufacturers today are using aluminum in various places to reduce the overall weight of the vehicle. As far as rusting goes, this usually isn't an issue on cast iron blocks as it's life is spent under cover. Only when it is left sitting in the elements does it suffer this fate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are reducing weight in the front end of the vehicle, it can in most instances provide a better weight bias as well. For those vehicles which are concerned with centering the weight of the vehicle (ie: Corvette), taking 110 lbs off the front of the car (when they moved to the LS1 engine and variants) helped a lot in this transition (moving the transmission to the rear of the car helped as well). This can provide better cornering attitude and help with over/under steer mannerisms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main advantages (that I can think of) for a cast iron block over an aluminum one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dimensional Stability: Aluminum grows more during the heating process than does iron. Extra precautions must therefore be built into aluminum blocks so as counteract this condition and prevent issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Cylinder Liners: If you &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; want to rebuild an aluminum block where the cylinder liners are toast, they must be replaced. This is a large machining expense in comparison to having to just bore the cylinders in a cast iron block. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost: Cast iron has been used in industry for many years and is fairly easy to produce. Aluminum, on the other hand, costs a lot more to refine from bauxite ore. Just in materials alone, the cost is greater. Then look at the cost for the cylinder liners and special casting processes which must be employed to get the aluminum block correct and the cost goes even higher. There is some trade-off, however, in the heating process (doesn't take as much energy to melt aluminum v. cast iron), and aluminum is easier to machine (less wear on the machine tooling/fixtures v. cast iron). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you think any given cast iron block is going to be more powerful than any given aluminum one? This is all dependent upon the engine which you are looking at and what the manufacturer has done in the performance realm. If you are just trying to compare the two, this is a decision you'll have to make on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T12:45:03.240" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26409" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:01:19.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I found, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seat.es/coches/leon-5-puertas/caracteristicas/reference.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seat offers&lt;/a&gt; 4 main versions (depending on market) of the 5 doors Leon:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reference  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Style  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FR  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CUPRA (a lot different than the other)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars have several trim levels, which will differ in equipment and look (and sometimes performance), from which you can choose. The Leon is no exception, so expect to be differences in rims, and minor body work (at least) from one trim level to another. It's absolutely normal to see minor differences on the street between the same car model. Seat is also part of the VW group and they have the habit of offering anything as an ad-on and this also leads to a lot of differences between sold cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check online and see what the Reference level should look like and have as features and also ask for a specification sheet from your dealer to make sure you get what you expect. The main things that you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have different from the Style version are the rims (you may get steel instead of aluminium) and the fog lights (you may not get them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I linked the Spanish website, because Seat being a Spanish brand, I would expect them to list all their versions in there and have the most accurate information.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T13:34:09.807" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:34:09.807" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26250" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:03:45.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, this could get a little complicated, and your level of engine hacking skills makes it even harder... I would recommend you to go to a professional mechanic, go back to the dealer, or at least ask someone who knows the basics of how a car engine works (you will surely have some colleague on work who can take a quick look at it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four steps of the ignition key, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 - Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 - Pre ignition (enables some of the electrical system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - Ignition (enables more or less all of the e.system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 - Crank (This is the spring loaded step that makes your starter turnover the engine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say ON do you mean before you hit crank or during crank?&#xA;If it's before you hit the crank it could be some kind of electrical pump or engine that is bad or has run dry or something. My first thought is the fuel pump. In that case it will probably need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's during crank it could either be the starter engine solenoid that doesn't insert the &quot;gear&quot; for the starter engine. This will probably also need replacing but you could try knocking it gently with a rubber hammer to see if that makes any difference (preferably when someone is &quot;cranking&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a belt that is old/dry/loose, which makes the &quot;squeaking&quot; sound, but then the fact that it's hard to start is due to something else, and this squeaking should most likely be there also after the engine has started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus case: are you sure that it's not just the standard sound of an old car cranking/starting? (just as in the previous case this has nothing to do with the fact that the car is hard to start)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:03:45.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:09:06.600" Score="2" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 225 45 r17 winter tyres on my golf that are nearly new. I have just purchased a Peugeot 207 with 205 45 r17 tyres - could I also use my winter tyres on this car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T22:47:13.443" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T08:24:23.493" Title="I have 225 45 r17 winter tyres on golf but peugeot 207 with 205 45 r17 tyres - could I interchange" Tags="|tires|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26413" CreationDate="2016-02-23T13:59:38.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably can't use them. They are too wide for the Peugeot - the max &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheel-size.com/size/peugeot/207/2008/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I could find&lt;/a&gt; was 215, and even that I think is a stretch for a car so small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on what rims you have on the Peugeot they may not fit on them and you'd need different rims (the ones from the Golf will not work because the Golfs usually have 5 bolts and the Peugeot has 4). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:59:38.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-02-23T15:34:54.447" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is not the airbag, it's you.  You aren't taking a rational approach to risk.  This not to insult you, because humans generally are very bad at taking a rational approach to risk - if NASA can screw up risk management (most notably on Challenger) then anyone can. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't find anything in the news to say it's &quot;perfectly safe&quot; or even &quot;close&quot;, because that's not news.  &quot;Safety feature saves thousands of lives a year&quot; is not a news story.  &quot;Safety feature goes wrong once and causes minor injuries&quot; is a news story.  But you're following the perfectly normal human characteristic of assuming visibility equals importance, and that's a bad assumption.  In this case, it could quite literally be a fatal assumption for you and your passengers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid you're describing a classic case of &quot;a little information is a dangerous thing&quot;.  You've absorbed that there's a minuscule risk in one direction, so that a few people a year suffer minor injuries, and you've absorbed the concept of an airbag being &quot;a small bomb&quot;.  But you're missing the concept of what happens to the human body when you crash at speed, and that hundreds of people at day crash at speed, and walk away because of airbags.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also assuming you are capable of &quot;driving more carefully&quot;.  The statistics are pretty good on how nearly everyone thinks they're better than average at driving - and clearly 50% of people saying that are wrong!  Even if you are, being careful doesn't protect you against external problems - what happens when you hit a patch of oil on the corner?  Or what happens if someone else crosses into your lane and wipes you out? Being more careful doesn't provide any protection against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only drive at 20mph then crack on with taking out your airbags.  You're not going fast enough to need them.  If you ever drive at more than 20mph though, you'd better believe they'll save your life.  I'm prepared to bet you do drive at more than 20mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one exception to this is if your passenger is a child.  Airbags are designed to blow out where an adult's head and body would be, but that's not going to work out well for a kid.  It works out even less well if your kid is in a rear-facing seat, when the seat takes the full force in entirely the wrong place.  Most cars do allow you to disable the passenger side airbag, and those that don't, there's some kind of transponder which disables it if there's a child seat fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T16:34:19.523" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T16:34:19.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2016-02-23T15:55:06.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, that sounds exactly like what my car had. Everything in your description matches what I was worrying about and at the shop they told me it was a faulty oxygen sensor. The repair will cost me $300 dollars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15279" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T11:29:13.693" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T11:29:13.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T16:19:29.513" Score="3" ViewCount="4271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Chevy Cobalt bought used a year ago from a dealership near me. It has about 81,000 miles on it and just recently started messing up. My coolant temp will start heating up to about 200F-206F when idle. The normal running coolant temp I had logged before all this was 190F. Then, whenever I start moving from a standstill, my car will lose the ability to accelerate with &lt;strong&gt;ENG PWR REDUCES&lt;/strong&gt; message on readout. I'll park and turn off engine wait a while and turn it back on and I can drive again with coolant temps around 200F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone know what could be causing this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking it to AutoZone tomorrow to get codes. Just thought I'd ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15280" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T16:37:41.703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T21:57:17.397" Title="ENG PWR REDUCED 2009 Chevy Cobalt LS" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|power|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T16:39:37.203" Score="7" ViewCount="11850" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Subaru Forester is overheating with no heat blowing through the vents.  I have had a thermostat put in and a new heater core.  Radiator has been pressure tested with no leaks. Unfortunately it doesn't overheat all the time.  It will go a few weeks and then overheat and no heat blowing.  Could be a bad thermostat.  Can a head gasket be the cause but would a head gasket affect the heat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15283" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:38:23.873" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T23:36:28.807" Title="2006 Subaru Forrester overheating and no heat" Tags="|subaru|overheating|heater|forester|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26408" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:51:38.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum engines also have better heat transfer, which can reduce engine hot spots and tendency to knock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the limit on power is engine knock, which is often the case, aluminum engines with the same specs/dimensions would be more knock resistant and tend to be capable of more power. &#xA;For example, with more knock resistance, one thing commonly done is increasing compression/boost/ignition advance to increase the power output of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the engine settings remain the same, such as when the engine tune is not adjusted for the change in materials, the cast iron would likely make a small amount more horsepower. This happens because the cast iron combustion chamber steals less heat during the combustion event, and more heat would be conserved for actual work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stronger cast iron engine block would be an advantage in some special circumstance where the engine is limited by part strength instead of knock, such as a low compression forced induction methanol engine with large amounts of boost and nitrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastEditorUserId="10234" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T23:20:47.240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T23:20:47.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26419" CreationDate="2016-02-23T17:59:10.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the overflow tank on the radiator when the car is overheated. If that tank is full, you've probably got a blown headgasket - that's how I spotted mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the thermostat; did you buy an OEM one, or after market? Foresters are very particular about the thermostat, and ONLY the OEM ones work reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T17:59:10.437" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23810" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:16:35.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be worried about petroleum companies will suddenly depreciate their products from the marketplace and supplant the current product lines with a fuel that won't be consumable by your Prius.  The global impact and loss of profits would be devastating to the global economy as well as the petroleum product provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think more of a concern is that there won't be a next generation product that will drop-in to the global distribution and end user infrastructure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary issue for the void seems to be the ability of bio-fuel manufacturers to create a product that has the same combustion, oxidation, viscosity and lubrication properties of traditional petrochemical based products that are compatible with the current infrastructure and user base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that are making great inroads in the area and products are being tested.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bioenergyconnection.org/article/drop-fuels-game-changer-biofuels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; enumerates the progress and illiterates the economic issues nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the primary hurdle is creating a drop-in bio-fuel for the gasoline infrastructure that can be produced for less than the cost of current petroleum based products.  The quantities of biomass, land to grow it, infrastructure to convert it and cost of shipping currently need to be brought down to be competitive.  As well, the product needs to meet the ASTM standard ASTM D4814 for fuel in the US and EN 228 in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T19:16:35.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23562" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:26:53.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a two stroke gasoline engine, you can just start it backwards.  Occasionally, two-strokes will start incorectly and run backwards on their own.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8StmcJNirw&quot;&gt;See this video.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-stroke boats will often reverse polarity on the starter to run the engine backwards to reverse the boat then kill the engine and restart to run normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine&quot;&gt;From this Wikipedia article.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regular gasoline two-stroke engines will run backwards for short periods and under light load with little problem, and this has been used to provide a reversing facility in microcars, such as the Messerschmitt KR200, that lacked reverse gearing. Where the vehicle has electric starting, the motor will be turned off and restarted backwards by turning the key in the opposite direction. Two-stroke golf carts have used a similar kind of system. Traditional flywheel magnetos (using contact-breaker points, but no external coil) worked equally well in reverse because the cam controlling the points is symmetrical, breaking contact before top dead center (TDC) equally well whether running forwards or backwards. Reed-valve engines will run backwards just as well as piston-controlled porting, though rotary valve engines have asymmetrical inlet timing and will not run very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T19:26:53.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26425" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:44:44.480" Score="9" ViewCount="2903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ouch, a new turn signal flasher relay is $65 at the local parts shop.&#xA;Is it possible to DIY a repair of such a flasher relay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T00:07:38.090" Title="Is it possible to repair an intermittent or flaky turn signal flasher relay?" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|relay|soldering|flasher|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26424" CreationDate="2016-02-23T19:44:44.480" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can often repair turn signal flashers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variety of things can be wrong: here's one of them. Solder joints on the relay printed circuit boards are especially vulnerable to stress cracks, due to the clicking motion day in and day out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the case off the relay and use a jeweler's loupe to inspect for hairline cracks, especially cracks those that go all the way around a pin that is shaken by the relay clicking.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULQJo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULQJo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad solder joint on car flasher relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6v0Tu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6v0Tu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stress crack in solder on flasher relay pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repair get a soldering iron fairly hot,  melt the existing solder until it is fully wet, release cleanly, and let the solder form a nice shiny fillet.  This is a very easy soldering job even for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastEditorUserId="3679" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T00:07:38.090" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T00:07:38.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26408" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:27:56.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a practical point, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 04 VW GTI has an aluminum block and turbo, and one thing to keep in mind a Aluminum is softer than Cast Iron and is easier to strip, or scar. I have first hand experience striping stud holes going into the turbo to the down pipe. Times you wished it was cast iron. Also I'd imagine it would be more susceptible to compression issues due to breaking down faster than cast iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my points from under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the extra weight in front of the vehicle hear in New England is probably more of a benefit as it should help with traction on the road in slippery conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T20:27:56.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26408" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:31:42.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of material properties an aluminum casting will tend to be lighter for equivalent strength and should be easier to cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the disadvantages of aluminium come down to manufacturing issues. Aluminium castings are potentially prone to defects and although aluminium is soft it is not as easy to machine as cast iron especially to the sorts of tolerances required for an engine. Similarly its softness means that any bearing surfaces need to be formed with inserts (cylinder liners have already been mentioned in another answer) rather than just machined out of the casting. For the same reason mating surfaces like cylinder heads and manifold connections are more prone to damage during assembly and maintenance and the same applied to threads which are prone to stripping and seizing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison cast iron has the particular property that you can create hardened surfaces in a casting by putting chill plates in the mould to create wear resistant bearing surfaces. Cast iron also has excellent dimensional stability and good vibration absorbing properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although we think of aluminium as being 'non-rusting', corrosion can actually be a big problem in aluminium blocks.  One reason for this is that contact between aluminium and steel can cause galvanic corrosion which is a particular problem when you have things like cylinder liners and studs which have to be made from steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T13:59:22.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:59:22.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25663" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:02:23.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the tail light bulb then hit the brake and see if it still blows the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake light works, then the combined bulbs is too much for the fuse. Check the wattages of the new bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still blows remove both bulbs.  If it still blows you could have a short in the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-install the old one to make sure you didn't introduce a short in the bikes wiring while working on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that 0.7 Ohm resistance on your old light odd.  That doesn't seem right.  You're just checking the resistance of the bulbs and they should be about the same.  Was it working ok?  Check those resistances again on both units with the bulbs out.  All should be infinite (open circuits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastEditorUserId="15260" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T21:08:07.577" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T21:08:07.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26408" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:57:09.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also compacted graphite iron, vehicles have been using this new alternative since 2004. It allows the molecules to form a more dense matrix upon cooling, which provides the benefits of iron (much longer lasting) as well as the benefits of aluminum (much lighter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T21:57:09.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26417" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:57:17.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On GMs the only time the engine power reduced message is displayed is when there's a fault with the electric throttle, throttle position sensors or the accelerator pedal position sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on mileage and the code you may need to have a throttle service done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I wouldn't worry about engine temp running around 200*F. if it's a concern you should check the radiator fins and the cooling fan shroud for fit. As well as coolant level and condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be any correlation between coolant temp and your engine reduced power message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T21:57:17.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26419" CreationDate="2016-02-23T22:35:54.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK - I see from your comment above that the overflow tank is still full. In most cases, if you have a blown head gasket, you'll be losing coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In can go into the main crankcase, in which case your engine oil will show the effects of coolant and oil mixing. The oil dipstick will have a mottled, milky appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In can also go into the exhaust system - check the tailpipe for excessive steam and or coolant dripping. Also pop the actual radiator cap (while engine still cold, very dangerous if engine is hot) and rev the engine and see if exhaust fumes are coming out the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The no heat is a sign that hot coolant isn't flowing into the heater core, this could be the thermostat is stuck closed and not allowing the coolant to circulate through the engine. It could also be the water pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully it's not the head gasket, that's usually a sign your cylinder head is warped, and it's fairly expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13711" LastEditorUserId="13711" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T17:10:11.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T17:10:11.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26433" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:18:22.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toyota RAV4 is a sport utility vehicle (SUV) produced by Japanese automobile manufacturer Toyota. It was the first compact crossover SUV, making its debut in Japan and Europe in 1994 and in North America in 1995. The vehicle was designed for consumers wanting a vehicle that had most of the benefits of SUVs, such as increased cargo room, higher visibility and the option of full-time four-wheel drive, along with the maneuverability and fuel economy of a compact car. Although not all RAV4s are four-wheel drive, RAV4 stands for &quot;Recreational Active Vehicle with 4-wheel drive&quot; because the aforementioned equipment is an option in select countries. The early success of the RAV4 paved the way for competitive compact crossover-SUV's such as the Ford Escape and the Subaru Forester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most markets, the RAV4 is the only compact SUV or crossover available from Toyota. In other markets, it is the crossover counterpart of the Toyota FJ Cruiser. Since the 2006 third generation model, Toyota has offered both short- and long-wheelbase versions of the RAV4. Short-wheelbase versions are sold in Japan and Europe, with Australia and North America receiving the long-wheelbase versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFIO6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFIO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota RAV4 Fourth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Toyota RAV4 Fourth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_RAV4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T02:26:14.490" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:26:14.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26434" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:18:22.387" Score="0" Body="The Toyota RAV4 is a sport utility vehicle (SUV) produced by Japanese automobile manufacturer Toyota." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T00:43:48.103" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T00:43:48.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26435" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:20:54.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Subaru Impreza is a compact automobile that has been manufactured since 1992 by Subaru. Subaru introduced the Impreza as a replacement for the Leone, with the Leone's EA series engines replaced by the newer EJ series versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in its fourth generation, Subaru has offered four-door sedan and five-door hatchback body variants since 1992; the firm also offered a coupe from 1995 until 2000. Mainstream versions have received naturally aspirated &quot;boxer&quot; flat-four engines ranging from 1.5- to 2.5-liters, with the performance-oriented Impreza WRX and WRX STI models uprated with the addition of turbochargers. Since the third generation series, some markets have adopted the abbreviated Subaru WRX name for these high-performance variants. The first three generations of Impreza in North America were also available with an off-road appearance package titled Subaru Outback Sport. For the fourth generation, this appearance package became known as the Subaru XV, and is sold internationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3aey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3aey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2015 Subaru WRX&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2015 Subaru WRX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T02:26:18.023" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:26:18.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26436" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-23T23:20:54.120" Score="0" Body="The Subaru Impreza WRX is the performance version of Subaru's Impreza, which is a compact automobile that has been manufactured since 1992 by Subaru. " OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T00:43:56.010" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T00:43:56.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T00:02:46.750" Score="10" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Porsche 918 the first production car with a top mount/exiting exhaust system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flatsixes.com/cars/porsche-918-spyder-cars/porsches-918-spyder-exhaust-exit-top-pipes/&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; points out that by routing the exhaust up, Porsche was able to equip a completely flat underbelly and longer diffuser, which has significant benefits to cooling and aerodynamics. It also says the shorter exhaust tubing will reduce back pressure and weight, but then again that weight is now located above the center of gravity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm most interested in how the hot exhaust gasses effect to the aerodynamics of the car. Does hot air increase/decrease laminar flow? Does it somehow create a barrier and act as a spoiler for the cooler ambient air coming off the roof? Would the varying exhaust temperatures change anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would it benefit FI engines, and does the future hold an MR2 Turbo with a similar system!? (puh-LEASE, Toyota).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I think we can all agree it looks pretty %$&amp;amp;?!#@ cool shooting blue flames over the engine bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:24:44.593" Title="Porsche 918 - benefits of top mounted exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|porsche|aerodynamcs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26393" CreationDate="2016-02-24T00:55:09.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Ben mentioned in a comment, and after further experiments and closer looks at the wiring diagrams, I have found that, for this car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The markers should be on solid when the parking lights or headlights are switched on at the steering wheel (including when the ignition is off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The markers should be off in all other cases, regardless of turn signals or hazards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They should never flash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T00:55:09.910" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-02-24T00:55:09.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3235" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:04:01.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard many such noises caused by &lt;strong&gt;worn bushings&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;missing caliper shims&lt;/strong&gt; or if you have &lt;strong&gt;Drum Brakes&lt;/strong&gt; in the rear; a loose spring - A loose spring could be loose and during slow rotation you will hear it knock as the spring slaps from one side to the other(front to rear) and the other bracket tries to operate but will not, and the bracket that is working will hit against the tip of the other one as you hit the brakes because both brake brackets are not moving at the same time and one of them is raising off / away from the back plate and slams back down on the plate again. or a spring was set in the wrong port on the shoe bracket. As mentioned by Rory Aslop- The shock bushings when worn out will also give you a clunking sound as you move forward or in reverse due to the broken rubber bushing thus allowing the shocks bolt loop to bang on the mount bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T02:13:29.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:13:29.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15634" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:21:57.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have just described the sounds of a failing shock absorber / strut.  The top of your strut / absorber does not force out fast enough and creates the bouncing ball effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:21:57.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:28:32.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same thing happened to me:  left turn, snow, slip, and hit the curb with the back end of the front tire.  This caused the &lt;strong&gt;Lower Tie Rod&lt;/strong&gt; to jump the threaded nuts and threw my alignment off.  I had an alignment done and it was now 95% better.  Bumping a front wheel this way can cause damage to your Inner Tie Rod, Outer Tie rod, Hub Bearing, CV Joint, and CV Boots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastEditorUserId="13316" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T02:40:53.547" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:40:53.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4529" CreationDate="2016-02-24T02:54:32.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds like a power steering pump issue--BUT--  You should know that a bad pulley on an alternator would make a more raspy sound / very similar to the sound you are getting now, but with a louder and more pronounced raspy sound added to it.  From what I heard-- I would suggest the Power steering Pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T02:54:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26437" CreationDate="2016-02-24T03:24:44.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I certainly don't claim to have any special inside knowledge as to why Porsche engineers decided to route the exhaust that way, but I think that we can analyze the possibilities and trade-offs from an engineering view and perhaps see how one might come to such a conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The possible options&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think we can safely eliminate any front-facing exhaust configuration, so that leaves three choices one could imagine for routing the exhaust:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out the sides, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under the car or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each has its costs and benefits, but let's look at the considerations that may have led Porsche engineers to their conclusion.  (Note that I'm lumping &quot;straight out the back&quot; as with the McLaren MP4-12C in with &quot;under the car&quot; in most of the following discussion, since most points would apply to either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Eliminating heat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's both a high horsepower sportscar and a hybrid.  The sportscar part means that the exhaust temperatures tend to the higher end of the spectrum and the hybrid part means that keeping the batteries cool enough is an important consideration.  So getting the heat away from the batteries (and the other electrical systems) is an important goal.  Any of the configurations might be employed successfully in routing heat away from the batteries, and away from the engine, but the entire length of the exhaust pipe will be very hot and radiate heat, so that dictates that the batteries almost have to be forward of the engine.  In fact, the 918's batteries are between the driver's seat and the mid-mounted engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Weight savings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably obvious that making a car lighter is a good way to both make it faster and to make it consume less fuel (both of which were design objectives for this vehicle.)  Generally, weight should be eliminated where practical and even expensive things become &quot;practical&quot; for an $800K sportscar!  Keeping the exhaust pipes shorter saves weight.  This would likely be a point in favor of either top or side exhaust versus bottom exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Weight distribution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to pay attention to where the weight is located in a high performance vehicle.  Weight that can't be eliminated is generally preferred to be closer to the ground to lower the center of gravity of the entire vehicle to allow for better handling characteristics.  Batteries, engine, electric motors and transmission are all heavy and are mounted as low as practical given other considerations.  This makes bottom routed exhaust not impossible but perhaps more difficult to route than side or top exhaust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aerodynamics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of a racecar (and the 918) is smooth to allow for a continuous and unobstructed flow of air beneath it.  Keeping the air flowing smoothly until it's already behind the car helps it go faster by reducing drag.  The entire undertray of the 918 can be smooth all the way back to the diffuser at the rear of the car in part because there are no holes for exhaust ports.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow Formula 1 racing, you may know about the &quot;blown diffuser&quot; used to great effect in the 2011 Red Bull RB7.  The exhaust gasses were used as an aerodynamic element by having the exhaust flow over the rear diffuser.  This was very effective until it was &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2011_British_Grand_Prix#Diffuser_ban_and_controversy&quot;&gt;banned in 2011&lt;/a&gt;.  So in theory, could the 918 have had the exhaust flow beneath the car through the diffuser and have an aerodynamic advantage?  Maybe, but the real magic of the Red Bull car was that air flow &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; an engine mapping allowing the engine to continue to blow air over the diffuser even when the driver lifted off the throttle. Lacking that, as soon as the driver lifts, the aerodynamics of the car would have abruptly changed, which is not good.  It may be that Porsche considered but rejected this because the system would have been more complex as a result and would not have been effective at other-than-racing speeds.  Score another point in favor of either side or top exhaust. Having the exhaust above the engine does indeed mount it above the center of gravity for the vehicle, but the exhaust was also engineered to be as small and light as possible, mitigating the negative effect of mounting it high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Awesome sound effects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Porsche takes some care in ensuring a visceral driving experience which includes the sound of the engine.  Even Porsche models that are a bit more affordable include features such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://articles.sae.org/10374/&quot;&gt;&quot;Sound Symposer&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which is a design feature with the sole purpose of transmitting the right engine sound to the driver's ears.  Definite score for the exhaust out the top on this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Efficient top exhaust&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the points above favor either side or top exhaust.  In fact, most V8 engines have exhaust headers on the side, so the natural shortest path for exhaust would be to the sides.  However, the 918's engine has an unusual (unique?) feature compared to most V8 engines -- the exhaust headers originate within the V instead of outside it.  That makes the &quot;straight up&quot; choice a clear winner in terms of shortest path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:24:44.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23387" CreationDate="2016-02-24T05:43:24.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no search feature on the  2005 BMW 320D Touring OEM stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, when selecting a playlist you cannot browse individual songs as you can if you select songs and browse through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T05:43:24.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21867" CreationDate="2016-02-24T05:52:50.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to remove the airbox and the plastic cover over the valve cover to gain access to the CPS and actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cam position sensor and actuator are located on the top of your valve cover to the left of the number 1 spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can remove the wires to the CPS and the actuator and have access to remove and replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T05:52:50.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6526" CreationDate="2016-02-24T06:38:11.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Corsa has dual overhead cams.  The cam rides directly on a bucket that sites above the valve stem and valve spring.  In order to adjust your valves you have to properly size shims that sit between the bucket and the valve stem.  Over time, the valve face, in the combustion chamber, gets worn into the valve seat.  As valve clearance is taken up by this interaction you need to occasionally have a valve adjustment done.  If you don't, when all the valve clearance is taken up, the valve can leave a tiny crack open in the combustion chamber when the engine heats up.  This can effect your compression reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Causes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust valves to ensure the proper clearance between the bucket and the cam lobe.  This is a normal tune up procedure as called for by the manufacturer at particular mileage points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn rings and cylinder bore - Causes are numerous.  If the engine ever overheated the cylinder bore can become glazed.  If you ever seized the engine from overheating you could have damaged the bore, the rings and the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve Face or Seat Damage - If you have run the car in a lean condition for an extended period of time you could have burned your exhaust valves thereby creating a 'leak' in your combustion chamber that effects your compression numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Head gasket - You could have a blown head gasket that is leaking into your crankcase that has led to your poor compression numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cracked Head - Your head could be cracked thereby effecting your compression figures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warped Head - If you have overheated your vehicle you could have warped your head thereby creating a compression leak to the atmosphere, crankcase or cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are only theories as I am trying to answer this question so it doesn't show up as an answered question anymore.  Seeing that you haven't logged in since July 2013 I doubt you will ever know any of this has ever occurred.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T06:38:11.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26413" CreationDate="2016-02-24T08:24:23.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you planning to use the whole wheel from the Golf, or just the tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the 205 and 225 tyres are that the 225 is two cm wider (that would mean one cm on each side if you change only the tyres), it will also be a little higher (about 157mm instead of 143mm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to take a look on your car and make sure that there is enough clearance between the current wheel and the inner wheel wells and the fenders. Don't forget to account for the movement of the wheel, both up and down, and as you turn the wheel. But just as @alin-purcaru says, it's likely to be too big for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you mean to change the whole wheel, well then first of all the number of bults must fit, then the bult pattern. You will also have to check that the ET number of the rim fits your car. Most likely this option will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T08:24:23.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T08:44:32.920" Score="3" ViewCount="6123" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does working the nuts on the swing-arms actually cause the chain to be tightened or loosened?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know chain adjustment has to do with the rear axle. So how do these chain adjuster nuts affect the rear axle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a diagrammatic representation to show the relationship between the chain and the chain adjustment nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15261" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T07:50:45.390" Title="How do the chain adjustment nuts on the swing-arms of a motorcycle work?" Tags="|motorcycle|chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26452" CreationDate="2016-02-24T09:19:00.997" Score="11" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2003 ('04 Model spec) Right Hand Drive Volkswagen Bora (Jetta) Mk4 PD130 TDI SE (Comfortline) I have wetness both on and under my floor mats and in the carpet.  The damp seems to be concentrated near the drivers door opening and spreads backwards so can be felt in the rear a little and forwards under the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any model specific or general advice on how to establish and rectify where the water is coming in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does anyone have any specific advice regarding tips or techniques I can use to dry the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please remember that I'm in the north of England so nighttime temperatures are typically around -3 degrees celsius, daytime temperatures peak at around +7.  Furthermore, the car does not have a sunroof.  I'm not sure if that's relevant.  Finally, the car is usually parked outside facing downhill on a fairly steep gradient.  I can park it facing uphill overnight but obviously can't park it on the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be really appreciated as I'm currently having to scrape ice from the inside of the windscreen each morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:44:51.153" Title="Damp leaking cabin, tips to trace leak and advice to dry it out" Tags="|vw|leak|jetta|water-leak|bora|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26448" CreationDate="2016-02-24T09:19:15.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjusting the nuts on the swing arms simply changes the position of the rear sprocket, moving it closer or further away from the drive sprocket, and/or changing the alignment of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihw0T.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihw0T.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram above doesn't show it, but the position of the rear sprocket (along with the whole back wheel assembly) is not fixed, but actually can move along the swing arm(s). This picture should show it more clearly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSRfq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSRfq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you push the rear sprocket further away, you increase the distance between the sprockets and consequently reduce the chain slack, making it tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On dual swingarm motorcycles, to help with keeping the back wheel aligned, you will see some equidistant notches put in the area your are adjusting. You must adjust on both sides the same distance to keep your wheel aligned. Or if it's not aligned, to start with, then your can use this mechanism to align it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't forget to check your manual for the amount of slack you need to have (the chain doesn't need to be too loose or too tight). Check for wear of the chain and rear sprocket. And clean and lubricate your chain.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T07:50:45.390" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T07:50:45.390" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26449" CreationDate="2016-02-24T09:56:26.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several places water can get into the cabin of a car, some of the more typical are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through tired door and window seals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through drain holes in the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condensation from your breath and/or the air-conditioning system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brought in on your shoes, clothing etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;through rust holes, missing bungs, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explicit leaks would result in more water when it has been raining, condensation etc would have similar amounts of water all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to test for an explicit leak is to sit in the car and get an assistant to spray it with a hosepipe, paying particular attention to any areas you suspect - such as rear window and door seals if you usually park facing downhill. You then look out for any signs of water coming in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To dry it out, I'd suggest a passive dehumidifier/ moisture trap, such as 'kilrock' or similar - these have crystals that absorb moisture from the air and deposit it in a container - I used one in my old Land-Rover when I had the same problem, and found it to be quite effective. Make sure it's wedged firmly in place so it can't spill however, and take care when emptying/refilling, as the resultant chemical is caustic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T09:56:26.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:22:36.863" Score="8" ViewCount="1668" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electric fans are now common on cars, both aftermarket and stock. The advantages in horsepower, faster warmup, and hence emissions are well documented elsewhere. The same reasoning can be applied to justify an electric water pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there as much to gain as what has been achieved with electric fans?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the water pump start spinning when the thermostat opens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could the thermostat be removed and the shutting down of the pump be relied upon to stop water being cooled by the radiator when the engine has not come up to its recommended operating temp? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must the proposed electric water pump always spin albeit at some slow speed to keep the engine temp even? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would variable speed be good or would a simple on/off thermostatic switch suffice? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the pump be allowed to run after the ign is off to facilitate cool down like some electric fans do when the engine is hot?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T12:45:23.220" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:45:23.220" Title="Electric water pump control" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|engine-theory|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25192" CreationDate="2016-02-24T12:39:08.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;CNG was popular in NZ during the fuel shock of the 1970s .People converted thier big gas guzzlers in a real panic while others went for small 4 cylinder cars .I saw an early conversion that resembled a bunsen burner stuck into the air filter .There was a big loss of range and boot space due to the low calorie value of CNG .There was also a HP loss .Starting was more difficult so they sold &quot;CNG batteries  that were simpley larger heavier more expensive batteries.The way the GOVT mamaged prices was to put the CNG up whenever the petrol went up anyway.There were rumours that engines didnt last as long but that may be an urban myth.The govt removed the subsidies some time in the 1980s and the &quot;industry&quot; fell flat .Nowdays nobody talks about it and the filling stations have become invisible or vanished.The last time I did any electronics work on it was when I had Hair .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:39:08.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26453" CreationDate="2016-02-24T12:39:36.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there as much to gain as what has been achieved with electric fans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember you aren't &lt;em&gt;gaining&lt;/em&gt; anything. Just like a belt run fan, each is a &lt;em&gt;parasitic&lt;/em&gt; loss of power. When you put an electric water pump on the engine, you are &lt;em&gt;regaining&lt;/em&gt; some of the lost power which you didn't have access to in the first place. This will allow for better fuel mileage, etc. You can expect about the same difference as what you'd see from an electric fan, but every engine is different so it would be very hard to put a specific number or percentage associated with the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the water pump start spinning when the thermostat opens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It should run just like a regular pump does, which is all the time. I think you may have a misconception of how any pump works or even how the cooling system operates. There are two sides to the cooling system which is separated by the thermostat. What I'll call the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; includes the engine and water pump. The &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; includes the radiator. The heater core can fall either the inside or the outside depending on how the manufacturer set it up when engineered. On the inside portion, the coolant circulates constantly. On the outside, the coolant flows only when the thermostat is open. Without the circulation on the inside, you'd get hotspots which would produce steam (these still occur even with circulation, but that's another story). The circulation helps keep the engine at a near constant temperature which helps with efficiency and with longevity of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the thermostat be removed and the shutting down of the pump be relied upon to stop water being cooled by the radiator when the engine has not come up to its recommended operating temp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. I believe this is answered above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Must the proposed electric water pump always spin albeit at some slow speed to keep the engine temp even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electric pump flows what it flows. It turns on and circulates the coolant at the speed which it's rated for. This circulation speed is usually much faster than regular water pump at idle and a bit slower at higher engine speeds. They are &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; designed to flow what the engine needs at any given speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would variable speed be good or would a simple on/off thermostatic switch suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither. You want to keep the flow at an even pace. You could possibly create some type of rheostat which would adjust speed of the pump to coincide with engine speed, but why would you when they work perfectly fine without it. By adding something like this you are creating unneeded complexity. With complexity you're adding more chinks in the armor ... one more place for something to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the pump be allowed to run after the ign is off to facilitate cool down like some electric fans do when the engine is hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most electric pumps don't come this way, it can be rigged as such. It's actually not a bad idea, especially if you have water cooled turbos or other parts which can get very hot and are cooled by the coolant system. Hot spots anywhere in the engine can cause issues. By having coolant flow over them you are helping them to cool at an even rate, which will allow for them to last longer and perform better in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:39:36.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26449" CreationDate="2016-02-24T13:08:23.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nick C pointed some good things to look but forgave one important thing in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First let me ask you a question : Do you have many trees near your house/where you park your car or near the parking at work? If so my bet would be clogged drain from the bottom of your windshield. In my short experience with car all the time a car was leaking inside this was the cause (around me there are many trees) and this was on 4 differents cars and 3 differents make (Vw, Pontiac and Ford).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a diyer, you can unscrew the inner fender and the drain should be easy to see. Than see if they are clogged, if so remove all you can and than do the other side. If you are not a diyer just take it to a garage and mention you think this is the cause this should be a quick and easy job for any shop, it should take less than 1 hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastEditorUserId="3725" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T13:49:31.893" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:49:31.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26419" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:31:04.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with one of my cars.  The water pump was bad.  The impeller was plastic and had cracked, so it wasn't spinning (at least not as much as it should be).  Since the water pump is not moving enough coolant, you are not getting enough coolant passing though your heater core to heat the car.  While you are sitting, the coolant is not moving and heating up, when you start moving again, it starts moving the coolant a little and moves the hot coolant reaches the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:31:04.867" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26449" CreationDate="2016-02-24T14:38:16.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another source of leakage that I eventually tracked down (myself, the garage couldn't find it) on a Corsa was the rubber gasket where the heating/aircon pipes come through the firewall.  It no longer made a seal to the pipes.  Eventually the solution was bathroom sealant (as a new gasket would be a major job given the aircon), but I improved matters considerably with cable ties and cut up rubber boots around the pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could feel slack seals from both sides (assuming I took enough interior trim/carpet off of course) but couldn't really see it from any angle, inside or outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, unless I caught it at exactly the right water level, it seemed to be concentrated near the drivers door.  That was just a matter of camber/ the shape of the floor pan.  It could be felt in the back at its worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastEditorUserId="9374" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T14:44:51.153" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T14:44:51.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26460" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:07:08.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Opel Corsa is a supermini car engineered and produced by the German automobile manufacturer Opel since 1982. It has also been sold under a variety of other brands (most notably Vauxhall, Chevrolet, and Holden) and also spawned various derivatives in different markets. Its current fifth generation is built in Spain and in Germany. However, despite its global presence, it has never been sold in the United States or Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhTp9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhTp9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Opel Corsa E&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opel Corsa E&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_Corsa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:10.600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26461" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:07:08.077" Score="0" Body="The Opel Corsa is a supermini car engineered and produced by the German automobile manufacturer Opel since 1982." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:42.210" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:42.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26462" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:20:47.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Escort is a small family car that was manufactured by Ford Europe from 1968 to 2004. The Ford Escort name was also applied to several different small cars produced in North America by Ford between 1981 and 2003. In 2014, Ford revived the Escort name for a car based on the second-generation Ford Focus sold on the Chinese market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The North American variant of the Ford Escort is a compact car introduced by Ford in 1980 for the 1981 model year. Adopting the &quot;Escort&quot; name used by Ford of Europe since 1968 along with the general design and layout of the third-generation European Escort, it was the successor of the Ford Pinto, which had a tarnished reputation for quality and safety after a widely-publicized fuel tank defect. The Escort was one of Ford's most successful models in the 1980s, earning a much better reputation than the Pinto, which faced widely publicized safety issues. In fact, the Escort was the single best-selling car in its second year in the United States and during most of that decade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Escort was Ford's first front-wheel-drive car built in North America, a design popularized by the Volkswagen Rabbit. It also effectively replaced the smaller Ford Fiesta, which was imported from Europe from 1978 to 1980.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1990 (for the 1991 model year), the North American Escort would switch to a Mazda-derived platform and essentially became a twin of the Ford Laser, a compact car sold in Asia and Oceania that has always shared a platform and some powertrain options with the Mazda 323, and whose progenitor was available in North America as the 1988 Mercury Tracer. Redesigned on the same platform for the 1997 model year, the Escort was succeeded by the Ford Focus in 1999 for the 2000 model year in North America, although Escort production continued until 2002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0OHU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0OHU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Escort Sixth Generation - European Market&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Escort Sixth Generation - European Market&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Escort_(Europe)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:17.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:17.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26463" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:20:47.217" Score="0" Body="The Ford Escort is a small family car that was manufactured by Ford Europe from 1968 to 2004. The Ford Escort name was also applied to several different small cars produced in North America by Ford between 1981 and 2003. In 2014, Ford revived the Escort name for a car based on the second-generation Ford Focus sold on the Chinese market." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:56.763" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:56.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26464" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:32:14.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chevrolet Cavalier is a compact automobile produced from 1982 to 2005 by Chevrolet. Built on the company's J platform, the Cavalier produced the highest sales in 1984.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cavalier replaced the Monza in North America. The Monza was available as a 2-door coupe, a 3-door hatchback and a 3-door wagon (using the same body as the discontinued Vega wagon, the model it replaced). The inexpensive Chevette was retained even as sales declined, and was formally replaced by even smaller captive imports. Both previous platforms had rear-drive layouts while the new design followed the front wheel drive trend, as in the Dodge Omni and Honda Civic. Ford and Chrysler also introduced new front drive compacts. The largely successful mission of capturing the bulk of domestic compact sales would fall on the Cavalier's 2-door coupe, 4-door sedan and 4-door station wagon, the relatively short-lived 3-door hatchback (which replaced the Monza 2+2 Sport 2-door hatchback) and, in later years, a 2-door convertible. The small Cavalier even helped fill in lagging sales of the compact Citation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPE3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPE3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2003-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier coupe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2003-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier coupe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Cavalier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:32.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:32.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26465" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:32:14.620" Score="0" Body="The Chevrolet Cavalier is a compact automobile produced from 1982 to 2005 by Chevrolet. Built on the company's J platform, the Cavalier produced the highest sales in 1984." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:29.250" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:29.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26466" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:35:30.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ram pickup (formerly the Dodge Ram pickup) is a full-size pickup truck manufactured by FCA US LLC (formerly Chrysler Group LLC). As of 2010, it has been sold under the Ram Trucks brand. Previously, Ram was part of the Dodge lineup of light trucks. The name Ram was first used in 1981 on the redesigned Ram and Power Ram following the retiring and rebadging of the Dodge D Series pickup trucks as well as B-series vans. The truck is named for the Ram hood ornament that first appeared on Dodge vehicles in 1933. The Ram Truck is in its fourth generation as of the 2009 model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ram trucks have been named Motor Trend magazine's Truck of the Year five times; the second-generation Ram won the award in 1994, the third-generation Ram Heavy Duty won the award in 2003, the fourth-generation Ram Heavy Duty won in 2010 and the current Ram 1500 won in 2013 and 2014. The Ram is currently built at the Saltillo Truck Assembly in Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico and at the Warren Truck Assembly in Warren, Michigan, United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf3h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Paf3h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RAM Truck Fourth generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;RAM Truck Fourth generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Ram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:39.183" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:39.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26467" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:35:30.510" Score="0" Body="The Ram pickup (formerly the Dodge Ram pickup) is a full-size pickup truck manufactured by FCA US LLC (formerly Chrysler Group LLC). As of 2010, it has been sold under the Ram Trucks brand. Previously, Ram was part of the Dodge lineup of light trucks." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:22.320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:22.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26468" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:38:08.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Hyundai Accent (Korean: 현대 엑센트), or Hyundai Verna (현대 베르나) in South Korea, is a subcompact car produced by Hyundai. In Australia, the first generation models carried over the Hyundai Excel name used by the Accent's predecessor. The Accent was replaced in 2000 by the Hyundai Verna in South Korea, although most international markets, including the USA, retained the &quot;Accent&quot; name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Accent is produced for the Chinese market by Beijing Hyundai Co., a joint venture with Beijing Automotive Industry Corp. For Russian market it is assembled by TagAZ plant in Taganrog. In Mexico, the Accent is marketed by Chrysler as the Dodge Attitude, previously Verna by Dodge. In Venezuela, Chrysler marketed them as Dodge Brisa until 2006. The Brisa was assembled by Mitsubishi Motors at its plant in Barcelona, Venezuela. Since 2002, the Accent had been the longest-running small family car sold in North America. In Puerto Rico, it has been sold as the Hyundai Brio. In Russia, it is sold as the Hyundai Solaris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2008, Hyundai Accent was named the most dependable sub-compact car by J.D. Power and Associates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVh5K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVh5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hyundai Accent Fourth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hyundai Accent Fourth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Accent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:48.693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:48.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26469" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:38:08.367" Score="0" Body="The Hyundai Accent, or Hyundai Verna in South Korea, is a subcompact car produced by Hyundai." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:52.650" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:52.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26470" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:40:12.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toyota Tacoma is a pickup truck manufactured in the U.S. by the Japanese automobile manufacturer Toyota since 1995. The first generation Tacoma, model years 1995½ through 2004, was classified as a compact pickup. The second generation was classified as mid-size. The Tacoma was Motor Trend Magazine's Truck of the Year for 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of 2015, the Toyota Tacoma is sold in the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Panama, Bolivia, Chile, and the French territory of New Caledonia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1c47j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1c47j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Tacoma Second Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Toyota Tacoma Second Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Tacoma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:42:36.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:42:36.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26471" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:40:12.360" Score="0" Body="The Toyota Tacoma is a pickup truck manufactured in the U.S. by the Japanese automobile manufacturer Toyota since 1995." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T16:41:59.087" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T16:41:59.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26472" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:45:23.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toyota Sienna is a minivan manufactured by Toyota at the Toyota Motor Manufacturing Indiana facility, in Princeton, Indiana, United States, for the North American market. It replaced the first-generation Previa van in 1997 with a more conventional front wheel drive layout and shares a heavily revised platform with the Camry. Both the Previa and original Sienna were smaller than the other minivans they competed against, but a redesign in 2003 (for the 2004 model year) increased the dimensions to match those of its competitors. The Sienna is currently the only minivan in its class to offer all-wheel-drive. It was redesigned a second time in 2010 (for the 2011 model year). The third generation Sienna was put on sale in the US in February 2010 and is the first Sienna to ever receive a &quot;Top Safety Pick&quot; award from the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Exports from the US to Korea began in November 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyZEl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyZEl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Sienna Third Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Toyota Sienna Third Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Sienna&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:51:20.493" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:51:20.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26473" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:45:23.790" Score="0" Body="The Toyota Sienna is a minivan manufactured by Toyota at the Toyota Motor Manufacturing Indiana facility, in Princeton, Indiana, United States, for the North American market." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:54:06.820" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:54:06.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26474" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:48:17.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Explorer is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the American manufacturer Ford since 1991, but in 2012 it was redesigned as a Crossover SUV'. The Ford Explorer became one of the most popular sport utility vehicles on the road. The model years 1991 through 2010 were traditional body-on-frame, mid-size SUVs. For the 2011 model year, Ford moved the Explorer to a more modern unibody, full-size crossover SUV/ platform, the same Volvo-derived platform the Ford Flex and Ford Taurus use although with significantly greater ground clearance. It is slotted between the traditional body-on-frame, full-size Ford Expedition and the mid-size CUV Ford Edge. Although outwardly similar, the fifth generation Explorer, Ford Edge and Ford Escape do not share platforms. The fifth generation Explorer does, however, share platforms with the Ford Flex and Lincoln MKT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Explorer has also been involved in controversy, after a spate of fatal rollover accidents in the 1990s involving Explorers fitted with Firestone tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both two-door Explorer Sport and four-door models of Explorer have been sold. Part-time four-wheel drive is an available option, and since 1995 this has been a 'shift on the fly' system with full protection against being engaged at high speed. A specially modified Special Service Vehicle version is also available from Ford Fleet for law enforcement agencies, fire departments, and EMS agencies. Explorer was also the name of a trim package offered on the Ford F-Series trucks from 1968 to 1986. The 2011 Ford Explorer was named North American Truck of the Year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsghA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsghA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Explorer Fifth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Explorer Fifth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:51.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:51.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26475" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:48:17.163" Score="0" Body="The Ford Explorer is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the American manufacturer Ford since 1991, but in 2012 it was redesigned as a Crossover SUV." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:49:27.203" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:49:27.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26476" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:54:38.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mazda3 or Mazda 3 (known as the Mazda Axela in Japan) is a compact car manufactured in Japan by Mazda. It was introduced in 2003 as a 2004 model, replacing the Familia/323/Protegé. A performance-oriented version of the Mazda3 is marketed as the Mazdaspeed3 in North America, Mazdaspeed Axela in Japan and the Mazda3 MPS in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second generation Mazda3 for the 2010 model year was unveiled in late 2008, with the sedan premièring at the Los Angeles Auto Show and the hatchback at the Bologna Auto Show. For the 2012 model year, Mazda began offering the Mazda3 with their newly developed SkyActiv technology, including a more rigid body, a new direct injection engine, and a new 6-speed transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current third generation was introduced in mid-2013 as a 2014 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7MK7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7MK7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mazda3 Third Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mazda3 Third Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:02.267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:02.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26477" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T16:54:38.727" Score="0" Body="The Mazda3 or Mazda 3 (known as the Mazda Axela in Japan) is a compact car manufactured in Japan by Mazda. It was introduced in 2003 as a 2004 model, replacing the Familia/323/Protegé. A performance-oriented version of the Mazda3 is marketed as the Mazdaspeed3 in North America, Mazdaspeed Axela in Japan and the Mazda3 MPS in Europe." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:16.377" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:16.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26478" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:02:00.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chevrolet Aveo (/əˈveɪ.oʊ/ ə-vay-oh) is a subcompact car manufactured since 2002, originally by Daewoo—and later by other General Motors-affiliated entities. Marketed worldwide in 120 countries under six brands (Chevrolet, Daewoo, Holden, Pontiac, Suzuki, and ZAZ), the first generation Aveo was originally called Daewoo Kalos in its home market South Korea and many export markets. South Korean models were later rebranded Daewoo Gentra, while in other markets, the first generation model was marketed as the Holden Barina in Australasia, Pontiac G3 in the United States and later Canada, previously in Canada as the Pontiac Wave and then in Canada as the Suzuki Swift+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second generation Aveo debuted in January 2011, marketed globally as the Chevrolet Aveo; in North America, the Middle East, Chile, Israel, Japan, Mexico, and South Africa as the Chevrolet Sonic; and in Australasia as the Holden Barina. As of December, 2012 production was underway at the GAZ plant in Nizhny Novgorod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;aveo&quot; is Latin, which means &quot;desire&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzTHx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzTHx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chevrolet Aveo Second Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chevrolet Aveo Second Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Aveo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:45:44.043" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:45:44.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26479" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:02:00.293" Score="0" Body="The Chevrolet Aveo (/əˈveɪ.oʊ/ ə-vay-oh) is a subcompact car manufactured since 2002, originally by Daewoo—and later by other General Motors-affiliated entities. Marketed worldwide in 120 countries under six brands (Chevrolet, Daewoo, Holden, Pontiac, Suzuki, and ZAZ), the first generation Aveo was originally called Daewoo Kalos in its home market South Korea and many export markets." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:49:02.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:49:02.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26480" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:04:31.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ford Fiesta is a supermini car manufactured by Ford since 1976, lasting seven generations. The Fiesta has been manufactured in Europe, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico, China, India, Taiwan, Thailand, and South Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2010, the sixth generation Fiesta (Mark VI) was introduced worldwide, making it the first Fiesta model to be sold in North America since the Fiesta Mark I was discontinued at the end of 1980.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fiesta has sold over 16 million units since 1976, making it one of the best selling Ford marques behind the Escort and the F-Series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqsJL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqsJL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Fiesta Sixth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ford Fiesta Sixth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fiesta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:50:16.037" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:50:16.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26481" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:04:31.803" Score="0" Body="The Ford Fiesta is a supermini car manufactured by Ford since 1976, lasting seven generations. The Fiesta has been manufactured in Europe, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico, China, India, Taiwan, Thailand, and South Africa." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:23.597" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:23.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26482" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:05:49.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country is a luxury passenger minivan manufactured and marketed by Chrysler, a division of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, introduced in 1989 as a 1990 model, now in its fifth generation and available in long-wheelbase (LWB) (1990–present) and short-wheelbase (SWB) versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrysler group minivans (which include the Dodge Caravan and Plymouth Voyager) have ranked as the 13th bestselling automotive nameplates worldwide, with over 12 million sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Town &amp;amp; Country will be discontinued for the 2017 model year, in favor of the Chrysler Pacifica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzL02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzL02.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country Fifth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country Fifth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Town_%26_Country&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:42.207" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:42.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26483" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:05:49.513" Score="0" Body="The Chrysler Town &amp; Country is a luxury passenger minivan manufactured and marketed by Chrysler, a division of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, introduced in 1989 as a 1990 model, now in its fifth generation and available in long-wheelbase (LWB) (1990–present) and short-wheelbase (SWB) versions." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:31.427" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:31.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26484" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:07:16.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Subaru Impreza is a compact automobile that has been manufactured since 1992 by Subaru. Subaru introduced the Impreza as a replacement for the Leone, with the Leone's EA series engines replaced by the newer EJ series versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in its fourth generation, Subaru has offered four-door sedan and five-door hatchback body variants since 1992; the firm also offered a coupe from 1995 until 2000. Mainstream versions have received naturally aspirated &quot;boxer&quot; flat-four engines ranging from 1.5- to 2.5-liters, with the performance-oriented Impreza WRX and WRX STI models uprated with the addition of turbochargers. Since the third generation series, some markets have adopted the abbreviated Subaru WRX name for these high-performance variants. The first three generations of Impreza in North America were also available with an off-road appearance package titled Subaru Outback Sport. For the fourth generation, this appearance package became known as the Subaru XV, and is sold internationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subaru has offered both front- and all-wheel drive versions of the Impreza. Since the late-1990s, some markets have restricted sales to the all-wheel drive model—therefore granting the Impreza a unique selling proposition in the global compact class characterized by front-wheel drive. However, Japanese models remain available in either configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m844i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m844i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Subaru Impreza Fourth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Subaru Impreza Fourth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:46:02.530" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:46:02.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26485" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:07:16.147" Score="0" Body="The Subaru Impreza is a compact automobile that has been manufactured since 1992 by Subaru. Subaru introduced the Impreza as a replacement for the Leone, with the Leone's EA series engines replaced by the newer EJ series versions." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:53:35.740" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:53:35.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26486" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:10:03.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Plymouth/Dodge Neon, sold in United States, and elsewhere outside Europe, Mexico, Canada, as the Chrysler Neon, is a compact front wheel drive car introduced in January 1994 for the 1995 model year by Chrysler's Dodge and Plymouth brands. It was branded as a Chrysler model in Japan, Europe, and Australia export markets (where it was the first car to be sold as a Chrysler since 1981), as well as in Mexico, Canada, and Egypt. It replaced the Dodge Shadow and Plymouth Sundance models and the Dodge Colt. The two-door model also replaced the Plymouth Laser in Plymouth's lineup. The Neon was offered in multiple versions and configurations over its production life, which ended on September 23, 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRtSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRtSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chrysler Neon Second Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chrysler Neon Second Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Neon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:42:27.600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:42:27.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26487" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:10:03.613" Score="0" Body="The Plymouth/Dodge Neon, sold in United States, and elsewhere outside Europe, Mexico, Canada, as the Chrysler Neon, is a compact front wheel drive car introduced in January 1994 for the 1995 model year by Chrysler's Dodge and Plymouth brands. It was branded as a Chrysler model in Japan, Europe, and Australia export markets (where it was the first car to be sold as a Chrysler since 1981), as well as in Mexico, Canada, and Egypt." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:52:50.860" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:52:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26488" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:12:27.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Honda Odyssey is a minivan manufactured by Japanese automaker Honda since 1994, marketed worldwide, and now in its fourth &amp;amp; fifth generation in North America and Japan, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Odyssey had originally been conceived and engineered in Japan, in the wake of country's economic crisis of the 1990s – which in turn imposed severe constraints on the vehicle's size and overall concept, dictating the minivan's manufacture in an existing facility with minimal modification. The result was a smaller minivan, in the Compact MPV class, that was well received in the Japanese domestic market and less well received in North America. The first generation Odyssey was marketed in Europe as the Honda Shuttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequent generations diverged to reflect market variations, and Honda built a plant in Lincoln, Alabama, incorporating the ability to manufacture larger models. Since model year 1999, Honda has marketed a larger (large MPV-class) Odyssey in North America and a smaller Odyssey in Japan and other markets. Honda also offered the larger North American Odyssey in Japan as Honda LaGreat between 1999 and 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdvC6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AdvC6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda Odyssey Fifth Generation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Honda Odyssey Fifth Generation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Odyssey_(international)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:48:48.013" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:48:48.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26489" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:12:27.280" Score="0" Body="The Honda Odyssey is a minivan manufactured by Japanese automaker Honda since 1994. The Odyssey had originally been conceived and engineered in Japan, in the wake of the country's economic crisis of the 1990s – which in turn imposed severe constraints on the vehicle's size and overall concept, dictating the minivan's manufacture in an existing facility with minimal modification. The result was a smaller minivan, in the Compact MPV class." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:43:32.600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:43:32.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:23:34.550" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tried starting my old 81 ford f350 box truck,but turns over won't start,has gas,tried staring fluid etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed goop on fender well &#xA;from duraspark ignition module.Put new one on,turn ignition on,the seat belt light comes on,turn ignition to start,seat belt light goes almost out and engine will not turn over,starter doesn't click,nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acts as though the battery is practically deas anytime I put a new module.&#xA;Take the new module off,put old one back on and engine turns over as normal,but no fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put 4 different new ignition modules on it,will not turn over,acts as though battery is almost dead.&#xA;NOTE:With old ignition module connected I can turn the headlights on,parking lights,turn signals,etc.&#xA;Engine also turns over normal with old module installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a new module on,the headlights nor any other lights will not come on,turn on the ignition switch turn signals wont work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It acts as though the battery us practically dead everytime I put the new ignition module on.&#xA;Four different new modules,same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put yellow tab modules and blue tab modules,the truck does the same with all of them&#xA;The module that was originally on it,when it ran before has yellow tabs and three plugs,one of which doesn't plug into anything,never did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried same type three plug yello tab modules and two plug blue tab modules(which Orieley's shows is correct)&#xA;Put the old module back on,lights work,engine turns over,but no fire.&#xA;Tried jumping the coil,replaced the coil,still same problem.&#xA;Guessing I'm not getting fire due to bad module,but new module kills all the power.If engine won't turn over with new module,then what?&#xA;Please Help,&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15301" LastEditorUserId="15301" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:30:25.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T21:21:48.687" Title="1981 ford f350 New duraspark kills the power" Tags="|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26491" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:55:33.623" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:55:33.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:55:33.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26492" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:55:33.623" Score="0" Body="Oldsmobile was a brand of American automobiles produced for most of its existence by General Motors. Olds Motor Vehicle Co. was founded by Ransom E. Olds in 1897. In its 107-year history, it produced 35.2 million cars, including at least 14 million built at its Lansing, Michigan factory. When it was phased out in 2004, Oldsmobile was the oldest surviving American automobile marque, and one of the oldest in the world, after Daimler, Peugeot and Tatra." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:47:48.387" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T00:47:48.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26493" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:57:38.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:57:38.227" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:57:38.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26494" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:57:38.227" Score="0" Body="General Motors Company, commonly known as GM, is an American multinational corporation headquartered in Detroit, Michigan, that designs, manufactures, markets and distributes vehicles and vehicle parts and sells financial services. General Motors produces vehicles in 37 countries under thirteen brands: Alpheon, Chevrolet, Buick, GMC, Cadillac, Holden, HSV, Opel, Vauxhall, Wuling, Baojun, Jie Fang, UzDaewoo." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:50:59.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:50:59.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:00:11.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:00:11.207" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:00:11.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:00:11.207" Score="0" Body="Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Limited (KHI) is a Japanese public multinational corporation primarily known as a manufacturer of motorcycles, heavy equipment, aerospace and defense. It has headquarters in both Chūō-ku, Kobe and Minato, Tokyo." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:49:49.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:49:49.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:01:36.573" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:01:36.573" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:01:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:01:36.573" Score="0" Body="Mercury was an American-market division that was marketed and sold by automobile manufacturer Ford Motor Company. Marketed primarily as an entry-level premium brand, Mercury was created in 1938 to fill the price gap between the Ford and Lincoln vehicle lines." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:50:05.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:50:05.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26499" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:11:44.137" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:11:44.137" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:11:44.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26500" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:11:44.137" Score="0" Body="Saab Automobile AB is a currently inactive manufacturer of automobiles that was founded in Sweden in 1945 when its parent company, SAAB AB, began a project to design a small automobile. The first production model, the Saab 92, was launched in 1949. In 1968 the parent company merged with Scania-Vabis, and ten years later the Saab 900 was launched, in time becoming Saab's best-selling model. In the mid-1980s the new Saab 9000 model also appeared." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:47:45.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T00:47:45.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26501" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:13:15.753" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:13:15.753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:13:15.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26502" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:13:15.753" Score="0" Body="The Saturn Corporation is a registered trademark established on January 7, 1985, as a subsidiary of General Motors. The company marketed itself as a &quot;different kind of car company&quot; and operated somewhat independently from its parent company for a time with its own assembly plant in Spring Hill, Tennessee; unique models; and a separate retailer network." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:50:13.857" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:50:13.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26503" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:15:38.717" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:15:38.717" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:15:38.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26504" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:15:38.717" Score="0" Body="Cadillac, formally the Cadillac Motor Car Division, is a division of U.S.-based General Motors (GM) that markets luxury vehicles worldwide. Its primary markets are the United States, Canada, and China, but Cadillac-branded vehicles are distributed in 34 additional markets worldwide. Historically, Cadillac automobiles have always held a place at the top of the luxury field within the United States. In 2014, Cadillac's U.S. sales were 170,750 vehicles." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:54:26.030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:54:26.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26505" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:18:00.277" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:18:00.277" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:18:00.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26506" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:18:00.277" Score="0" Body="Infiniti is the luxury vehicle division of Japanese automaker Nissan. Infiniti officially started selling vehicles on November 8, 1989 in North America. The marketing network for Infiniti-branded vehicles now includes over 230 dealers in over 15 countries." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T22:53:20.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T22:53:20.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:20:38.100" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:20:38.100" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:20:38.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:20:38.100" Score="0" Body="Mini (stylised as MINI) is a British automotive marque owned by BMW which specializes in small cars. The original Mini was a line of iconic British small cars manufactured by the British Motor Corporation from 1959 until 2000. Its models included the Morris Mini-Minor and the Austin Seven, the Countryman, Moke, 1275GT and Clubman. The original two-door Mini continued in production until 2000." OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:47:51.357" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T00:47:51.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26509" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:24:33.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An oil filter is a filter designed to remove contaminants from engine oil, transmission oil, lubricating oil, or hydraulic oil. Oil filters are used in many different types of hydraulic machinery. A chief use of the oil filter is in internal-combustion engines in on- and off-road motor vehicles, light aircraft, and various naval vessels. Other vehicle hydraulic systems, such as those in automatic transmissions and power steering, are often equipped with an oil filter. Gas turbine engines, such as those on jet aircraft, also require the use of oil filters. Aside from these uses, oil production, transport, and recycling facilities also employ filters in the manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0DKYe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0DKYe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spin-on oil filter, showing seal and screw-on thread&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spin-on oil filter, showing seal and screw-on thread&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early automobile engines did not use oil filters. For this reason, along with the generally low quality of oil available, very frequent oil changes were required. The first oil filters were simple, generally consisting of a screen placed at the oil pump intake. On November 27, 1923, American inventors George Greenhalgh and Ernest Sweetland filed U.S. Patent #1721250 for an automotive oil filter and called it the Purolator, a portmanteau of &quot;pure oil later&quot;. The Purolator oil filter was the first oil filter invented for the automobile and revolutionized the filtration industry. The Purolator oil filter is still in production today. This original invention was a bypass filter: most of the oil flowed directly from the oil pan to the engine's working parts, and a smaller proportion of the oil was sent through the filter via a second flow path in parallel with the first. The oil was thus filtered over time. Modern bypass oil filter systems for diesel engines are becoming popular in consumer applications, but have been in commercial use for some time due to potential reduction in maintenance costs. Oil filters are generally located near the middle or bottom of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_filter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T11:02:55.410" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T11:02:55.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26510" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:24:33.007" Score="0" Body="An oil filter is a filter designed to remove contaminants from engine oil, transmission oil, lubricating oil, or hydraulic oil. Oil filters are used in many different types of hydraulic machinery. A chief use of the oil filter is in internal-combustion engines in on- and off-road motor vehicles, light aircraft, and various naval vessels. " OwnerUserId="11426" LastEditorUserId="11426" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:47:39.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T00:47:39.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26490" CreationDate="2016-02-24T20:43:29.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have got a bad connection some where.  The old ignition module is drawing no current, so when you turn on your ignition there is enough voltage to operate any relays you are turning on including the starter relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with the new module connected, it is obviously drawing enough current to cause a large voltage drop across the bad connection which means nothing else will operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the various circuits to try to work out where the bad connection is.  This will need to be done with the new module connected and the ignition on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make a start checking the voltages at each of the fuses.  For it to affect so many circuits, it should be easy enough to find.  It is also possible it is a bad earth connection, but I think more likely on the positive side.  The battery connections are obviously ok because the starter works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the ignition switch is not making a good connection, so you could check the voltage both sides of the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T21:21:48.687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T21:21:48.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26515" CreationDate="2016-02-24T21:58:46.883" Score="15" ViewCount="56899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it's related to their basically running off knocking, but if I were to explain it to someone like this, it wouldn't convince me neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/369700-what-exactly-causes-the-diesel-noise.html&quot;&gt;http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/369700-what-exactly-causes-the-diesel-noise.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Loud knock is caused by the introduction of high pressure cold fuel into very high cylinder pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, who's right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14511" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T00:39:58.653" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T11:02:02.193" Title="What's the cause of Diesels' typical clatter noise?" Tags="|engine|diesel|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26513" CreationDate="2016-02-24T22:44:26.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine operates on high compression to ignite the fuel at very low RPMs which gives it it's distinctive sound. The lower RPM makes the ignition of each cylinder easier to hear and the compression ignition system gives it it's rattle like sound. This is as opposed to gasoline engines that operate by a spark/compression ignition system. The key to understanding this lies in understanding the diesel engine. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wiki page for this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the distinctiveness of your typical diesel sound comes from a combination of it's properties of low RPMs and the high compression ignition system. The actual sounds are generated at combustion and the opening and closing of valves. You really cannot hear the injection of the fluids into the chambers. Also, as another poster first pointed out (DucatiKiller), there is sometimes a piston slap that make a audible sound but not always in newer engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJBEk.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Piston Slap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BADLZ.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BADLZ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Piston Slap2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high pitch hiss noise you hear from some diesels as they accelerate comes from the turbo charger turbine spinning up and sucking in air at a high rate. Don't mistake the hiss I refer to with the air-brake system, as this is altogether something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See:&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqWKNuTppmU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How a Turbo Charger works.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15304" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T20:17:47.350" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T20:17:47.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26527" CreationDate="2016-02-24T23:27:18.097" Score="10" ViewCount="7688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26453/electric-water-pump-control&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; in the cue recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of no cars that are in production that use electric water pumps.  I am assuming that it's continuity issue related to failure rates and engine damage risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this question is directly related to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24942/are-there-any-vehicle-engines-that-dont-have-a-mechanical-oil-pump&quot;&gt;electric oil pump question&lt;/a&gt; but felt the desire to ask to validate any misplaced beliefs I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a production vehicle that uses an electric water pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T19:06:48.473" Title="Do cars ever use electric water pumps?" Tags="|electrical|water-pump|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26513" CreationDate="2016-02-25T00:10:44.693" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two types of sounds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two sound types that emerge from a diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combustion Noise&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical Noise&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combustion noise&lt;/strong&gt; is created by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine#Diesel_cycle&quot;&gt;compression ignition process&lt;/a&gt; which compresses the air fuel mixture of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas&quot;&gt;gas&lt;/a&gt; which creates higher temperatures upon increased compression until combustion occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical noise&lt;/strong&gt; is created primarily by piston slap where the piston rocks back and forth upon the wrist pin in the bore of the cylinder making a tapping noise that transfers through the solid case and emanates from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=_HZwAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA781&amp;amp;lpg=PA781&amp;amp;dq=Separation%20of%20combustion%20noise%20and%20piston-slap%20in%20diesel%20engine&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=6rO0vhyqFI&amp;amp;sig=i8Ln_RYsbzgudV3oc5zOzhRy05s&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjIreDyy5HLAhUH1mMKHfiEDMQQ6AEIOjAE#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=Separation%20of%20combustion%20noise%20and%20piston-slap%20in%20diesel%20engine&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;Diesel Engine System Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjIreDyy5HLAhUH1mMKHfiEDMQQFgg1MAM&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Ftech.jsae.or.jp%2Fijae%2Fdownload_pdf.aspx%3Fpno%3D20124039&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNE0UVxGRUXFNNO2mk0cvryZjtufZg&amp;amp;sig2=BlSq90Rebg3umoklkJuQdw&quot;&gt;Combustion Noise from a Running Diesel Engine Based on Transient Combustion Noise Generation Model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T00:10:44.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T00:49:48.700" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a student for automotive and have a print out of the conversion chart for tires. it says I can go from 215/70r15 to 244/55r16 and only lose 1mph on speedometer, but found some 245/50r16 will that be a too much of a conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15307" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:56:18.497" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T13:13:25.800" Title="Will it hurt to be off 5&quot; on width on tires through conversion" Tags="|tires|conversion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T01:56:51.710" Score="6" ViewCount="17865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Chevrolet Impala. I recently had the water pump, timing belt, radiator, and thermostat replaced because I had a coolant leak/overheating problems. I now don't have a coolant leak, however, while idling in traffic, my engine's temperature starts to creep above 200 degrees F (the half way mark) and reaches 215-230 degrees F if I am idling for awhile (20min). I feel as if my engine shouldn't even creep past 200 after getting everything fixed. My car never went above 200 degree F before I had a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note, sometimes after having my heater on for awhile I smell a very faint hint of something similar to a candle after you blow it out. I also was driving my car today with the heat on and then turned the AC on after my engine warmed up and smelt a weird smell (not quite burning, but something I can't describe. It was not a good smell, something i would associate with heat though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think needs fixing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I have a mechanic check out next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15308" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T03:06:44.830" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T17:48:09.867" Title="Car overheats idling in traffic" Tags="|chevrolet|overheating|heater|impala|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26448" CreationDate="2016-02-25T02:52:04.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slack in chain isn't caused by the rear wheel/sprocket moving closer to the front sprocket. The chain stretches over time during normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To adjust the chain tension you loosen the axle nut and turn the adjuster bolt to allow the rear wheel to move further away from the front sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the bike pictured, but on my (old) bike there's another adjustment bolt on the other side of the wheel. You need to adjust them both equally to make sure the rear wheel is tracking the same as the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between nut #1 and #2 is that #1 is what holds the bolt in position and #2 keeps #1 from vibrating loose. Two nuts tightened together on a thread are locked in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastEditorUserId="15260" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T04:48:56.620" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T04:48:56.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26519" CreationDate="2016-02-25T04:32:16.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my 2000 Ford Focus last year. I can't remember what it was called, but basically it's a thermostat that's sits against your radiator that turns on the radiator fans when not enough air is flowing through the radiator. Like when sitting in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for wires running from the radiator to the fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sit right between the radiator and exhaust header and what typically happens is that something causes you car to overheat and ruins these components. Mine failed right after I busted a hose and lost all my coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T04:32:16.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T05:09:31.780" Score="2" ViewCount="19722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering purchasing a second vehicle and am looking at a 2001 BMW 325i with an automatic transmission; however, I have heard mixed reviews of the automatic transmission in BMWs.  Is there any reason to think that an automatic transmission is less reliable (more likely to break requiring a costly fix) versus a manual transmission in the same vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially so at 100k+ miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, at the risk of asking two questions, it would be nice to know what causes this lack in reliability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="15311" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T08:28:30.210" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:25:22.540" Title="Are BMW automatic transmissions less reliable than manual ones?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-02-26T06:05:08.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26519" CreationDate="2016-02-25T06:06:16.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My top suspect would be a radiator fan that isn't running when it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans assist in transferring heat from the radiator to the surrounding air, and are most needed when the car is stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that the fan is bad. It could be that the relay is malfunctioning or there is a break in the wiring somewhere, so I would try to rule those out before making a call on the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T06:06:16.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T07:04:16.863" Score="3" ViewCount="972" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Acura TL 235k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a while (2-4 sec) for the car to shift from (P)Park to (D)Drive. &#xA;After the initial change of gears the car runs perfectly normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15312" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T12:01:09.460" Title="Shifting Problem" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|acura|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26524" CreationDate="2016-02-25T07:17:01.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in no way an expert on either Acura nor Automatic gearbox service. But in one episode of &lt;em&gt;wheeler dealers&lt;/em&gt; they had a problem with an automatic Porsche Boxster, it was a &quot;tiptronic&quot; gearbox which didn't shift correctly in automatic, but in manual. He changed the gearbox oil, and everything was ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's goes away after the initial change I thought that it might be the same on yours (like once the oil has gotten some temperature or whatever, it just works better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's more of a suggestion than an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T07:17:01.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26522" CreationDate="2016-02-25T08:46:53.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;15 year old car with 100k+ miles will eventually have many problems. I had 2005 Audi A4 2.0 Turbo diesel and when I sold it in 2012, it had 162k miles on it. The reason I sold it was because, it needed the entire cooling system to be replaced as well as automatic windows and many electronic parts. Usually gearbox and engine are the most durable parts of the car if they are regularly serviced and well taken care of. You will have to replace many parts before it's engine's and gearbox's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for manual vs automatic. Manual is low cost maintanence in case of problems compared to automatic. However, if the manual car is badly driven, you will experience a lot of problems with the gears themselves. I would suggest replacing the clutch as soon as possible after you buy the car since it is 15 years old. It will make a smoother drive. Why automatic is more costly to fix than manual is because automatic is a more complicated and closed system compared to the manual. Also, there are more aftermarket parts available for manual transmission than automatic. (Eg. Clutch, lever, gear etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would like to remind you that bimmers are needy cars. You have to take care of the, well. I currently drive a 2014 X5 and I had to get the electronic components of the air suspension replaced due to cold weather. (Below -10F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T08:46:53.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26516" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:46:30.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The W12 engine produced by VW utilizes both mechanical and electric water pumps (underlined with green). According to VW's documentation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The cooling system of the Audi A8 with W12 engine is made up of the&#xA;  following components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Water pump in cylinder block/crankcase driven mechanically by Poly-V belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Map-controlled electrically operated continued coolant circulation pump -V51 as back-up for mechanical water pump and for continued coolant circulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more details provided on the electric pump:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The electrically driven continued coolant circulation pump -V51 is&#xA;  located in parallel in the large cooling circuit in the return from&#xA;  the radiator. The continued coolant circulation pump -V51 has two&#xA;  functions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To provide back-up for the mechanically driven coolant pump at low engine speeds and to ensure adequate coolant circulation. -V51 is&#xA;  actuated via the additional coolant pump relay -J496 by engine control&#xA;  unit 1 -J623. Map control is employed to switch in the continued&#xA;  coolant circulation pump -V51 as required. The parameters used for&#xA;  this are the engine speed and the coolant temperature supplied by the&#xA;  coolant-temperature sender -G62.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Switching levels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cut-in: &amp;lt; 840 rpm and &gt; 108 °C Cut-out: &gt; 3000 rpm or &amp;lt; 106 °C&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To circulate the coolant during &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;continued coolant circulation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continued coolant circulation is described as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Continued coolant circulation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Continued coolant circulation is regulated by engine control unit 1&#xA;  -J623 in line with a map. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Both the activation condition and the continued coolant circulation&#xA;  time are determined from the following parameters on the basis of an&#xA;  arithmetic model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Coolant temperature (from coolant temperature sender -G62)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Engine oil temperature (from oil temperature sender -G8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ambient temperature (from intake-air temperature sender -G42)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The activation condition and continued coolant circulation period are&#xA;  constantly calculated from the time of starting the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For continued coolant circulation, the pump -V51 and radiator fan -V7&#xA;  are actuated in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The maximum continued coolant circulation time is limited to 10&#xA;  minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The map-controlled engine cooling thermostat -F265 is fully actuated&#xA;  during continued coolant circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Examples of activation condition as a function of ambient and coolant&#xA;  temperature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ambient temperature 10 °C, Coolant temperature 110 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ambient temperature -10 °C, Coolant temperature 115 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ambient temperature 40 °C, Coolant temperature 102 °C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkRoU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkRoU.png&quot; alt=&quot;W12 Belt Drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsABy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsABy.png&quot; alt=&quot;W12 Cooling System&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T07:50:51.260" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T07:50:51.260" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26516" CreationDate="2016-02-25T09:50:48.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to the original question you asked, yes, I happen to know for a fact that the Mk3 Volkswagen Golf VR6 uses an electric water pump.  The purpose of this pump is to keep hot coolant circulating after the engine has been shut off to prevent hot spots and heat soak causing damage.  However, this is used in tandem with a mechanical pump which runs all of the time that the engine is in operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for cars which use only an electric water pump, then I can't name any.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mawsolutions.com/html/electric_water_pumps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; websites seems to imply that some modern cars have abandoned the mechanical pump altogether but doesn't name any specifically.  I could quite believe that some competition cars run electric pumps and that it may be a technology we will see in road cars at some point but I don't know what basis the linked website has for claiming that some modern cars have already forgone the mechanical pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/resources/product-brochures/352electric-water-pump_addendum_r2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; link to the Gates electric water pump catalog, it woudl appear that I've stumbled across a number of cars that appear to use solely an electric water pump.  (Most of these are hybrid cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These include; 2013-12 Toyota Avalon, Camry Hybrid; Lexus ES300H 2.5L&#xA;Electric, 2012-10 Lexus HS250H 2.4L Electric; 2011-07 Toyota&#xA;Camry 2.4L Electric, 2014-10 Toyota Prius; Lexus CT200H 1.5L, 1.8L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T12:17:55.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T12:17:55.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26524" CreationDate="2016-02-25T10:16:13.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Markus, I am not an expert but from watching countless hours of automative shows and repair videos, I could say it is probably clogged up and needs and oil change, possible cleaning. While you are at it you are better off cleaning the inside of the engine off the oil gunk build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;235k miles is a lot for any machine, and if it has not regularly maintained and fluids changed on time, it could and possibly would have a lot of wear and tear and lots of gunk build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try adding high quality oil first, and if that does not solve your problem, do a complete fluids change, since it would be time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T10:16:13.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26519" CreationDate="2016-02-25T10:30:34.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with my VW Golf overheating. I also changed various parts, the thermostat being the first as that controls the circulation of the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I found the cause, the system wasn't pressurising as the o-ring on the filler cap had a kink in it and therefore wasn't making a good seal. I straightened it out and then it worked. Lesson of the story is check simple things first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new cap won't cost much, worth a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15313" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T10:30:34.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26524" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:01:09.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first port of call for sluggish automatic gearboxes is to change the ATF, it's the simplest and cheapest task to do and, unless you put the wrong oil in or the wrong amount, you can't make anything worse by doing it. If that doesn't fix the problem, changing the oil filter in the gearbox (if it has one) would be the next thing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the changing the oil and filter doesn't fix the gearbox there's likely to be a hydraulic leak inside it and you're probably best seeking professional help unless you've done a lot of work on cars yourself; there's a reason why automatic transmission repair is a specialism within car repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T12:01:09.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26536" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:45:21.790" Score="3" ViewCount="2502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somebody drove into the back of my 2003 Opel Agila at about 5-10mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no damage to the bumper apart from a large dent but I'm worried there may be hidden internal damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to check the car is still safe and not damaged?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I take it to a garage to check tracking, suspension and things?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The car is completely driveable and there is a tiny chip in the bumper, but I am still worried that there is hidden internal damage. The boot shuts properly and the rear doors seem to be flush with the bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T19:40:29.767" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:37:46.577" Title="I've just been rear ended. How can I check for damage?" Tags="|repair|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26537" CreationDate="2016-02-25T12:54:18.590" Score="4" ViewCount="3360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving the other day - car (1998 Toyota RAV4, FWD) recently serviced, four brand new tires recently fitted - when I heard a loud bang from my front left wheel. I eased to a halt, thinking one of the new tires might have burst: everything looked fine, but one of the five lug nuts for that wheel was missing (the bolt was still there, looking dirty but otherwise fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have happened and how can I prevent it? I'm guessing something to do with metal fatigue? Makes me a little nervous about my other, normal-looking but probably rather elderly and abused lug nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires were fitted by a mechanic at the same time as doing other servicing. I didn't check how tight the lugs were before driving (probably should have) but I checked the others after this happened, and they seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happened, I was driving at a moderate speed (50mph?) along a smooth, straight road, and had been driving for maybe 3 hours on a hot but not unusually hot West African morning (maybe 32°C when this happened? Probably 24°C when I set out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only unusual thing I can think of is I'd underestimated a few pot holes earlier in the journey and hit them faster than I should (25mph-ish), shaking the car but causing no visible damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning that some of the parts sold in car stores here probably wouldn't meet regulatory standards in places like Europe, so poor quality lugs is a possibility (though I have no idea how to check such a thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lug nuts looked a little like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwuzl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwuzl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Ball-Seat-Lug-Nuts-For-Honda-Factory-OEM-Aluminum-Wheels-M12x1-5-/141715239403?nav=SEARCH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from eBay&lt;/a&gt;, note there's no reason to think these are the same brand, they just look similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the missing one, there was nothing left at all, just a bare bolt poking out with nothing on its screw thread. I can't find a suitable image and don't fancy removing a lug just to take one - imagine a bare bolt similar in length to these lugs sticking out from a hole in the wheel where the nut should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was the end sheering off, that'd be easier to understand, but the whole nut disappeared from the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T13:16:49.593" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:16:49.593" Title="Loud bang while driving, then lug nut is missing - what happened?" Tags="|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26516" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:01:38.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW abandoned their mechanical water pump in the 3 series when they moved to the E90 generation in 2006. The electric pump is the only pump. A quick search reveals that all other typical cooling system components (i.e. thermostat) still exist, so even when the engine is warming up the coolant circulates. This is probably to prevent hot spots which could happen if the pump just stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a flow sensor for feedback so if the pump starts to fail the ECU can set a trouble code. E90 owners have reported low flow code as much as a month before total pump failure, but I'm sure reliability and failure rates vary by make/model just like anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems there are two primary benefits to electric pumps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't need a drive belt, so they may be located virtually anywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can run with the engine off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running with the engine off seems trivial for non-turbo and non-hybrid cars until you consider that most European cars turn off their engines if they come to a complete stop for more than a couple seconds to conserve fuel. The ability to circulate warm coolant through the heater core with the engine off becomes critical for driver comfort in cold climates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:01:38.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26533" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:08:58.810" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how things work were you are.  Here if you are rear ended, it is considered to be the fault of the person who hit you, so their insurance will pay for the damage.  If this is the case, you might as well take it to a shop and have them take a look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work on all my own cars, and don't like taking my cars to shops.  I've been in several accidents and have always repaired everything myself.  At that speed, it is unlikely the damage is anything more than cosmetic.  I would check that your truck latch and tail lights are still functioning properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for any damage to the exhaust.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can look for any damage in the following locations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust system (Silencer, pipes, and mountings),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the car,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under/behind the trunk carpet,  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;behind the bumper cover (exposing the metal bumper).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly doubt an impact at that speed would be enough to affect suspension or braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T13:38:06.323" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:38:06.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26534" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:16:38.683" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the rest are tight (and torqued to spec), I would put a new nut on and torque it to spec.  Given that there isn't and left over metal on the stud, like the nut stripped out, I would say it wasn't torqued to spec and worked itself loose.  The bang you heard might had been the wheel flinging the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:16:38.683" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26522" CreationDate="2016-02-25T13:25:22.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, no. There is nothing to suggest that in general BMW automatics are any more or less reliable than their manual transmissions. Just looking at how many used BMWs are for sales with more than 200k miles suggests that major drivetrain problems are not common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Individual cases of transmission reliability depend strongly on that specific generation of transmission. There was a generation of Honda Accords which had major transmission problems, but that really doesn't mean anything regarding the reliability of Honda Accord transmissions of other generations. The same can be said of many different vehicle makes and models, and I'm sure is true of BMW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically regarding the car in question, E46 autos in 99 and 2000 had problems with reverse going out, but that was eventually resolved and no major failure rates were reported in newer E46s. That common failure happened well before 100k miles, so if the car has reverse when you look at it, you're probably in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T13:25:22.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26519" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:21:08.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your radiator fan isn't kicking on. It may be as simple as whomever replaced your radiator forgot to plug it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your water pump is working correctly. Does your heater blow hot air when the engine heats up? If so you are circulating coolant, and the stuff you had replaced was successful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After driving for a bit, once your temperature gauge is at least halfway, park the car but leave it running. Pop the hood and look at the fan behind the radiator, is it blowing? If not you can drive till the temperature gets closer to overheating and check again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fan isn't blowing as I suspect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the wiring for the fan as far as you are able, it should have a connector for removing the fan housing when replacing the radiator, see that it's plugged in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the connector is good and the wiring you can see isn't abraded, it may be your fuse. Look in your owners manual and find where the fuse/relay are for for the engine fan. Check them. Relays are more difficult to check, some auto parts stores will do the test for you though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unfortunately if all the above has failed it's likely wiring somewhere you can't see or your computer :( You can try to run diagnostics on that if you have a tool for it, but this is getting to the edge of what I'd recommend a non-mechanic try to fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like that you are smelling burning smells after replacing most of your cooling system. That usually indicates a cracked hose. Usually hoses crack on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt;, and should be replaced along with the cooling system components they connect to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd inspect the hoses to and from your radiator, and to and from your heater. Do they look new-- as new as the work you had done? If not you may be able to take it back and request that the hoses are replaced tell them that you believe that one of the hoses are leaking. Show them the old hoses. Ensure that you tell them because this should have been done in the first place you'll only pay for parts, &lt;em&gt;not labor&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T14:21:08.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26542" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:02:11.573" Score="4" ViewCount="2957" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience as a consumer, mechanics at dealers typically seem to prefer not to perform quick or partial fixes for certain types of work. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing an entire wiring harness rather than redoing a problematic location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing coolant lines / entire radiator rather than patching a leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing a bumper with damaged clips rather than redrilling mount holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even had one dealer say to me, after a week in a shop, &quot;we're not willing to do a partial fix and cannot fix this problem while keeping the cost reasonable, we want to do the job right, we're refunding you your diagnostics fees and not performing the work&quot; (which I respect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is limited, though, to Honda dealers in New York City, where the mechanics are &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; busy, non-stop. So I'm not sure if this is a general trend, Honda-specific, busy-city-specific, or just not a trend at all (my sample size is small).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be unique to dealers. Non-dealer shops (even corporate, like NTB or Sears) seem more than willing to do whatever is needed to do a quicker, partial repair job, while dealers tend to go more by the book and replace parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a professional mechanic's point of view, why is this? My intent is not to criticize dealers vs. non-dealers. Rather, I am wondering if dealer mechanics are perhaps subject to certain corporate / trade regulations or contracts, or if they can increase profit or customer throughput,  or if it is part of mechanic culture, or if there is some other criteria that guides these decisions. I'm wondering how the system works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the shops (dealers / non-dealers) I'm referring to generally do great work, the approach is just consistently different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T19:20:54.810" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T04:19:14.537" Title="Why do dealers seem to prefer to replace parts instead of repairing?" Tags="|repair|dealer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26540" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:12:24.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's partly a case of covering themselves - if they do a quick fix and it goes wrong (e.g. that patch they put on the coolant line fails and the resulting loss of coolant blows the engine), they'd probably get sued - it might well be that they'd be at risk of losing their franchise as well, which would differentiate them from non-dealers who don't have that second risk. I suspect the type of people who go to back-street mechanics might well be less likely to sue in a similar situation as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T15:12:24.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26540" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:22:26.350" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is typically faster, easier, and more reliable to replace a bad part with a new part.  The dealership wants to the vehicle to leave the shop in the best possible condition that they can guarantee is going to work and last.  The best way to do this is to replace a bad part with a new part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They prefer not to repair parts, because a repaired part will likely not last as long as a new part.  Repairing a part requires extra diagnostic work and additional skilled work.  Repaired parts also carry the liability of not being repaired as well as the original part, leading to more issues, or another failure down the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing old parts with new parts is covered in shop manuals.  The shops can calculate how many man-hours it should take to replace a certain part, and can bill the customer accordingly.  This is difficult to do with repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most customers prefer to see their vehicle fixed properly with OEM parts, rather than hacked together.  Hack jobs usually do not instill much confidence, while new parts do.  It is also seen as more professional to use new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most independent shops will use new parts whenever possible unless they can save time/money by doing a repair that they can &lt;strong&gt;guarantee&lt;/strong&gt; will work.  For example, they would replacing a blown fusable link with a new fuse, since it is an easy cut and crimp.  However, they would likely not patch a radiator since it is hard to guarantee the patch, and it would be more cost effective to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T17:57:58.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:57:58.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26540" CreationDate="2016-02-25T15:41:37.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealer franchise contracts spell out what is allowed for parts replacement and repair standards. In all the cases I am aware of the OEMs insist on use of factory parts for all repairs made.  Most OEMs inspect for compliance regularly. Dealers will at times install non OEM parts but this is rare as the consequences when found out can be severe and include loss for the franchise. Also one stands to make a lower gross profit with lower cost parts and repairs so why take the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T15:41:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26546" CreationDate="2016-02-25T16:14:16.607" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Toyota MK4 NA Supra and it has a problem I don't understand. When I push the throttle gently, whether in park or in drive, it gradually builds revs and moves but when I push it hard i.e flat out, it acts like it's misfiring/backfiring and doesn't move. I have to feather it ever so gently. It's way worse in the mornings when it's cold. Please I need all the help I can get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it my spark plugs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;leaking vacuum? etc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15322" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T16:27:52.913" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T16:55:41.523" Title="My Toyota fails under full throttle but not when feathered" Tags="|toyota|o2-sensor|throttle|acceleration|vacuum|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26544" CreationDate="2016-02-25T16:32:39.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with one of my cars, after poking and prodding it for a couple of days it came down to the butterfly valve in the air intake sticking, if you throw your foot flat to the floor and it can't suck the air in quick enough it won't have the right air to fuel ratio and run awfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remove your air intake and get someone to rev it slightly and make sure the valve is opening and closing easily (Don't do it too much without a filter on or you'll end up sucking in dust and other engine related things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T16:32:39.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26544" CreationDate="2016-02-25T16:55:41.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say with the information given.  Sounds like retarted timing or not enough air or fuel (too rich / lean) .  A repair manual will be infinitely useful in testing/troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;codes, even if the CEL isn't on there might be something stored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs (clean, gapped correctly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rotor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vacuum lines (check engine vacuum)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel pump (check fuel pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sensors - MAF, MAP, o2, cam/crank  would be most likely to cause these issues.  Should be able to read with a multimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle motor - stuck open can be similar to a vacuum leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knock sensor, it might be causing the ECU to pull timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;timing (timing light, base timing, determine if ECU is pulling timing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T16:55:41.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26577" CreationDate="2016-02-25T17:34:15.100" Score="3" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26533/ive-just-been-rear-ended-have-i-done-any-damage&quot;&gt;last question&lt;/a&gt;, where I was rear-ended at about 5mph, I was told to check my exhaust system for damage. However I know nothing about to look out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I look out for?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What common damage occurs to the exhaust after a shunt?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T01:46:01.187" Title="How do I check the exhaust system for damage after being rear ended at about 5mph?" Tags="|exhaust|damage|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26551" CreationDate="2016-02-25T18:11:56.957" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the process of rebuilding a 4l60e which will go into a 4x4 go-kart. I am now in need of a transfer case that will bolt up. Are there any manually shifted (not dash button) transfer cases that will easily bolt up to a 4l60e without an adapter? If not how easy would it be do electronically control an electronic transfer case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:39:41.203" Title="Transfer Case Options 4l60e" Tags="|gm|4l60e|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26548" CreationDate="2016-02-25T18:21:23.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that speed, there really shouldn't be any damage.  Just be sure that:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There isn't anything bent in a way that would restrict flow&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hangers still hold the exhaust solidly in place (not hanging down or dragging)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:21:23.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26549" CreationDate="2016-02-25T18:39:41.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this answer isn't as complete as you want, but hopefully it can point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it appears this transmission was used in most (if not all) Chevy and GM trucks from 92 on.  Most (if not all) of those trucks were available with 4wd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban with 4wd.  It does have the dash button shift, but I've heard it was available with the floor shift.  Look around at mid 90s Chevy trucks for part numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, in looking at aftermarket 4wd stuff, I have seen manual engagement buttons.  Look at &quot;actuator upgrades&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:39:41.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26363" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:27:59.530" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number one answer is always &lt;strong&gt;Head Gasket&lt;/strong&gt;. The reason is that there are oil and water passages in close proximity, being separated by a gasket (which might just be flimsy paper or rubber, but is often steel or copper) sandwiched between two pieces of metal with (usually) different thermal expansion rates. This means that any time your engine gets far enough out of the proper heat range, the seal will fail and oil and water will begin to mix. Other problems will also result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number two answer is &quot;oh, so you decked the block/shaved the head and  replaced the head gasket... did you check the head for cracks?&quot; Again, it comes down to the fact that the head is typically full of oil and water passages and the head will typically be the loser (structurally speaking)  when something bad happens in terms of overheating. The block does have both oil and water passages but they're much farther apart (the block is primarily concerned with oiling the rotating assembly and the piston walls while the coolant passages are on the outsides of the top halves of the cylinders). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third answer is a lot more car specific. Some cars (like the mazda bp) use a little housing that contains both oil and water flow to cool the oil with water. This almost never leaks, but it might be something worth checking out if you recently messed with it. Or maybe your car is equipped with a water cooled turbo... if the seals went bad, you might get oil flowing into the coolant that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't special tools beyond those required to take apart the engine. External oil leaks can be spotted via dye and UV lights but that won't work here. Oil in the coolant is usually a prime diagnostic tool for head gasket woes. If it isn't your head gasket, you'll already have the head off, so you might as well drop it off at a head specialist to have them check it for cracks and warping. The most common causes of bad HG I've seen (other than overheating) were improper torque, improper orientation of HG, use of gasket maker when inappropriate, lack of gasket maker when required and severe uncorrected head or block warpage. If it is your head gasket, you should probably at least check that stuff with a straight edge (check straightness on either side of the cylinder line, across diagonally and across the top and bottom of the line). Also make sure you don't own a mk3 supra or similar car known for improper factory torque specs, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick that might produce results is to remove the radiator cap and thread an air hose into the spark plug hole of each cylinder, one at a time (a compression tester will have the right threads), rotating the crank/cam assembly to close the valves for that cylinder and put it in TDC. Then dump a little oil and then 100 psi of air into the hole and see if it makes bubbles out the radiator hole. If it does, break out the wrenches and get to work on that head gasket. This might not find the problem though... you can get leakage between the oil and coolant passages without the leak intersecting the combustion chambers. You could put air pressure into the oil system, but you have a very high risk of blowing out seals on the engine by doing this. The combustion chamber is at least safe with high pressures (or should be, normally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T20:48:54.643" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T20:48:54.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26724" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:34:52.797" Score="2" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is old, I know, but it only recently started doing that... When it's in park, and the engine is on, there is a non-noticeable shake, but when it's in drive, and I'm stopped at a light the car shakes like crazy. It's so noticeable that people beside me stare at the car.&#xA;My question is: What is causing the car to shake? and why does it only happen when it's stopped in gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15136" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T05:09:17.810" Title="1999 Toyota Tercel shakes when stopped" Tags="|engine|toyota|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T19:52:02.493" Score="3" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 1999 Ford F250SD XLT 4×4 that won't go into 4-wheel drive low. It's a manual shift 4×4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What can cause this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put it in 4-wheel drive high, the 4×4 dash light comes on but it doesn't seem to be working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:30:30.397" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T16:25:53.037" Title="1999 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty won't go into 4-wheel drive low" Tags="|ford|4wd|f-250|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26564" CreationDate="2016-02-25T20:20:34.920" Score="6" ViewCount="13812" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of ours just bought a 1998 Ford Expedition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hazard flashers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn signals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, head and tail lights both work when they're turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tested the brake light switch, there's continuity when the brake is pressed. The plug that plugs into the switch has ~12v current. However, in the fuse box neither the 15A or 5A fuses that are supposed to deal with brake lights/turn signals are getting any kind of voltage. There is also no voltage at the brake lights (which was expected, given that they just changed the bulbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also looked through the fuse boxes in the engine compartment as well as under the dash, nothing was obviously blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The person they bought it from removed the stereo... is it possible that is causing the problem? If not, what are the other possible causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastEditorUserId="10932" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T16:35:23.607" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T18:35:43.177" Title="Brake lights and turn signals don't work (but head and tail lights do) on 1998 Ford Expedition" Tags="|ford|lights|turn-signal|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25781" CreationDate="2016-02-25T20:30:27.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try re-bleeding the clutch system. I had a 1990 ford ranger that I pulled the trans on. When I put it back in and bled the clutch, I tried to put it in gear but wouldn't go, so tried bleeding it again and that fixed it. If it still has air pockets in the line it won't shift well, or may not shift at all. I'm with Dee, I don't like the hydraulic clutch system that Ford has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T14:30:28.493" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T14:30:28.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26540" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:09:43.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason for this is to simplify and standardise maintenance. Replacing a part with like for like can be a known and understood process which also allows traceability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of particular importance to manufacturers who might be have potential legal liability for millions of vehicles (in terms of both warranty and liability for dangerous faults)  looked after by hundreds of dealerships. In this sort of situation the most pragmatic approach is to set out a standardised procedure  for replacing a particular part, rather than leave it to the initiative of individual mechanics to repair it. This also means that you can train service technicians to a manual and given that a modern car might be designed by dozens of specialist engineers it is probably not reasonable to expect a few technicians in a dealership to have a thorough understanding of all of the systems involved.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact manufacturers will have subcontractors whose will go through every possible part replacement and work out how long it takes and what tools are required. This allows a reasonably precise cash value to be placed on any possible repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short this approach means that there is a singe, well documented 'right' way to fix any given problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T21:18:58.220" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T21:18:58.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:12:33.610" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to eliminate odors from the vents? (The odor is noticeable, even though it's been months since I used the A/C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people recommend spraying Lysol Disinfectant Spray into the A/C air intake, while running the air intake for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Lysol Disinfectant Spray is flammable and possibly corrosive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should try doing on my own? If not, who can do it, and what's this type of service called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15334" LastEditorUserId="15334" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T21:35:45.863" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T21:35:45.863" Title="How to eliminate odors from the vents?" Tags="|ac|smell|vents|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-27T13:45:06.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21742" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:16:58.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little water is normal especially in colder weather. It is not likely that it is coolant coming out of the exhust, if it was you'd have a lot of other symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you vehicle is leaving a noticeable black dusty or dark damp patch behind then this may indicate an issue. Along with that if your mileage has taken a slight dip as well as your vehicles power is a definite sign of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen when your engine is running too rich. Most likely causes for this either relate to ignition system issues, like one cylinder not firing correctly, or O2 sensors. If your O2 sensors are providing incorrect information to the ECM your engine will run to rich. This should problem should not go long unchecked as it will cause your catalytic converter, muffler, and other exhaust components to become caked with soot. Also, your O2 sensors will become coated with soot and give off even worse readings further aggravating the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walkerproducts.com/o2-sensor-training-guide/troubleshooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link for troubleshooting 02 sensors.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1403-driveway-diagnostics-bad-oxygen-sensor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link is good too.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time you can verify this with a code-reader. Most of time this will not throw up a engine light, but the ECM will notice inconstant readings. See diagram below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fm2Sf.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fm2Sf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;o2 diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you have it serviced or replace parts check the codes for any indications of it running too rich. If you have the other symptoms and are getting error codes, I would suggest inspect/replace your spark plugs and, depending on the mileage on them, then your O2 sensors. If you are a DIY-er then you may need a special socket to remove the sensor. This is what my socket looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcMzX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcMzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;o2 Socket.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be a real pain to remove. You may have to heat it with a torch and use a breaker bar in conjunction with a cheater pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely it is not more serious than that but sometimes if your exhaust manifold has a hole or crack in it or you have a hole in your exhaust pipe  upstream from the O2 sensor then this can also cause it to run too rich as the sensors report too much air and not enough fuel in the exhaust. You should be able to hear this as well as see the breach. Inspect your pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4mA0Jm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4mA0Jm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracked Manifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15304" LastEditorUserId="15304" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T20:30:17.587" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T20:30:17.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21742" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:38:32.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These systems are setup to operate with a balance of fuel/air to complete the combustion process.  An excess amount of soot would be an indication that excess amounts of carbon have built up creating an irregular combustion or potentially oil is slipping by the piston rings.  Rather than do an expensive repair I would recommend you put a can of BG 44K pn#208 in a full tank of gas.  Run until the tank is near empty to maximize the chemistry.  To find a shop near you go to www.bgfindashop.com.  This is a professional use product offered by majority of repair shops and dealerships.  They offer another product BG EPR pn#109 that can be used to clean the cylinders of any sludge building up over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15335" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T21:38:32.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T21:59:35.850" Score="7" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than normal wear and tear, are there any detrimental effects or added harm done to the engine by going full throttle in 1st and/or 2nd gear, then shifting up well before redline (say 4k rpm on a 7k rpm engine)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it, for example, cause more PCV valve activity, increase carbon deposits, or gum up the inside of the throttle body? Does fuel injection, electronic throttles, or forced induction compound or alleviate any issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better (but slower :c) to not accelerate at wide open throttle, or to taper off slowly instead of instantly releasing the loud pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this falls under 'driving habit' questions as I'm asking what mechanical maladies the habit may cause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T14:19:31.160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T00:25:44.230" Title="Short shifting after full throttle" Tags="|engine|shifting|rpm|redline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26557" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:02:55.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Expedition the hazard, lower brake lights, and turn signals all route through the multi-function switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain access to the multi-function switch connector and back probe the light green wire while pressing the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have power? If it yes back probe the light green/orange and orange/light blue wires while pressing the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have power? If yes there's a continuity issues between the multi function switch and rear lights. If no it needs a new multi-function switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T22:02:55.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26567" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:12:07.703" Score="12" ViewCount="31601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Honda Accord. I am driving today and I know that I need new brakes. They make a metal on metal screeching sound when I brake. Today as I go to brake at an intersection I hear a loud pop and my brakes stop working. I was able to avoid an accident and pulled over. I try driving on the small streets slowing trying my brakes. They seem to be stopping slowly and loudly. I know I can't put off getting new brakes but not sure exactly what I need to replace. I'm thinking at least the front pads, front rotors, maybe driver side calipers, and maybe the brake line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas as to what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to replace and how much longer can I drive like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input is good. If you need more information, let me know. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had it towed to a mechanic shop. Forgot I had roadside assistance from my car insurance, wasn't worth driving like that. Mechanic says I need all 4 rotors, pads, and calipers. That all the brakes are locked (not sure what that means). Cost to replace: front rotors and ceramic pads = $240, rear rotors and ceramic pads = $240, and all 4 calipers, 4 x $150 = $600. For a total of $1080. He said he would throw in replacing my catalytic converter for free  (i knew i had to replace it before). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15337" LastEditorUserId="15337" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T22:50:29.170" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T22:50:29.170" Title="Brakes make a &quot;POP&quot; sound and then I can't brake" Tags="|honda|brakes|noise|accord|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26565" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:21:10.260" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the brake pads have either completely worn through or otherwise failed, your car is not safe to drive at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you will certainly need new pads on both sides and possibly new rotors (disks) if they have been scored by metal/metal contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on exactly what has failed the calipers and pistons may be ok but they need to be checked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no particular reason to suspect that the brake lines themselves have been damaged if they had the brake pedal would just go to the floor with no resistance, but as you will already need some components replaced it makes sense to check them at the same time. Similarly this is a good time to inspect the whole front suspension and steering assembly as well as the inside of the wheel arches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may also be a reminder to do any other checks on oil, fluids etc that you may have been putting off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T10:58:11.393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:58:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26565" CreationDate="2016-02-25T22:24:02.653" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. One of your brake pads on the caliper side of the brakes had been worn so far down it popped out of place. Now you are stopping using the caliper piston against the brake rotor. You will now have to not only get the brake pads and rotors replaced, but the caliper as well. If you cannot fix this yourself, you should get the vehicle towed to a repair shop. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DO NOT DRIVE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; it any more until you do. As others have said, you are risking not only your own life and property, but everyone else's around you as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T02:59:48.093" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T02:59:48.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-25T23:50:35.463" Score="4" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car in November 2014 and from day-one the AC doesn't seem to work very well. In the winter when it's set to defrost the windshield, there is a lot of fog build up on the glass, and the air seems more moist than any air conditioned car I've owned before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first oil change my wife mentioned it to the dealer. The mechanic told her that the AC should be turned off when using defrost. Unfortunately I wasn't there to argue the point, but this is even contradicted in the manual. From what I see with the condenser fan activity, the AC can't even be turned off when defrost is used: it's turned on automatically. They said they did a charge test and found nothing unusual. I was skeptical they did a charge-test though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my most recent oil change I mentioned it again. This time, before the service appointment I ran a short tiny aluminum wire (about 1 cm long) between the AC service port caps and pipes (for both the low and high pressure service port caps) as a sort of tamper-indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time when my wife picked it up, they again said they did a charge test and found nothing wrong. They told her she should make sure the re-circulation button is on, and to dry-out the floor mats, saying they were damp from winter wear. Similar to before, re-circulation should be turned off when defrosting. More importantly, the tell-tale wires were still fixed in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warranty service sheet says they checked the AC charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there any way an AC charge can be tested without using the service ports?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15340" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:27:36.743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:27:36.743" Title="2014 Toyota Matrix: inadequate AC" Tags="|toyota|ac|matrix|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13357" CreationDate="2016-02-26T00:26:43.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually normal.The ECU rises the revs to keep up the temp in the cat.Annoying but becoming more standard, esp on petrol engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15342" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:26:43.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27193" CreationDate="2016-02-26T05:38:54.717" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;My duke generates an odd noise and when I looked under my seat what I saw was an open air filter box because of the broken screws. When I took my bike to the service center what they told was to replace the air box completely which costs 3k. Is it okay that I fix this by applying some glue temporarily ? or how should i solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15345" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T16:36:09.757" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T08:44:30.880" Title="KTM Duke 200, Broken Airbox" Tags="|motorcycle|air-intake|air-filter|ktm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T07:50:14.830" Score="5" ViewCount="5889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 96 Honda Del sol it's got about 200k on the engine. So lately my clutch hasn't been going into first or neutral when I try to start it. There is often very little resistance in the clutch at this stage, and the pedal often stays close to the floor. The engine, even if it's kinda warm (california winters), will read below cold. After waiting about ten mins with the engine running, occasionally revving for a few seconds in neutral, and after having pumped the clutch until resistance starts to come back and the temperature reads about half way, the clutch finally will go into first/reverse. This has been happening for about two weeks now; I've tried refilling the brake fluid, which may or may not have helped. I can't tell, but it's still a ten minute get into gear process. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15348" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T12:22:36.907" Title="Clutch sticking, wait until engine's warm" Tags="|starting|clutch|cold-start|brake-fluid|warmup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26565" CreationDate="2016-02-26T07:54:09.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact situation , in my case the one of the two caliper bolts was missing( or fell out due to not being tightened ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario: As I hit the brakes, the caliper slide round and hit the inside of my wheel rim causing me to lose all braking force and causing a reasonable audible thump (then as soon as i released the brakes the spinning motion on the rotor dragged the caliper back into place you could not see any problems at the road side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my opinion well known loudly at the local dealer who had recently serviced my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check everything is well mounted and the two caliper bolts are correctly installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yes it might sound unlikely but it literately happened to me, so it could defiantly happen to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15349" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T07:54:09.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26548" CreationDate="2016-02-26T08:55:04.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go under the car with a flashlight and check the overall area where you have been rear ended. There is usually a absorbtion plate on the bumpers, so it is highly unlikely that your exhaust is damaged. Just check for dents in the exhaust and the absorbtion plate. Check for visual irregularities. You can shine the flashlight and get an idea of irregularities from the reflections. I highly doubt that there is any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T08:55:04.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26565" CreationDate="2016-02-26T10:07:23.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster is right, it's probably related to your pads popping out of place, doesn't sound like brake hose damage. However it is not necessarily due to them being worn down too much. I've had an extremely similar situation where my brake pad friction material fell apart. Still not sure whether it was because of age, low quality or being overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:07:23.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26574" CreationDate="2016-02-26T10:10:21.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your clutch master cylinder is initially letting fluid past the piston seals. Pumping the clutch pedal sounds like it gets the piston sealing again so that the clutch starts to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am presuming that the clutch and brake both share the same reservoir and that you are not loosing fluid and not having to keep filling it up.  Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is correct, you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder.  It is possible to renew the seals, but often it is not worth the work and is easier and as cheap to replace the whole unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T10:54:02.383" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:54:02.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26533" CreationDate="2016-02-26T10:37:46.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check immediately that is often not visually obvious is whether your trunk opens, closes and locks easily and reliably. Not much can be damaged at that speed, but even slight damage to the trunk can bend it enough to cause locking difficulty. It would really suck if you let go that careless driver after visually inspecting your car to notice that the trunk will no longer close after opening when you come home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:37:46.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T11:06:01.277" Score="6" ViewCount="8111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Focus MKII (British market) with the 1.8 Duratec Engine that is very hesitant starting when warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter cranks powerfully but the car will only come to life when pumping the accelerator, sometimes it'll start but at very low revs (until I pump the accelerator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In about 20% of warm engine scenarios it doesn't need this treatment but it &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; occurs when the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through research I've heard about something called 'vapor lock' which appears to describe this - the remedy (drop the accelerator at the same time of killing the engine) &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;seems to resolve the issue&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for the next startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have vapor lock?  Any pointers of how to prevent this properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T12:59:15.670" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T12:59:15.670" Title="Hesitant starting when engine is warm - possible vapor lock?" Tags="|ford|starting|focus|hot-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26574" CreationDate="2016-02-26T11:09:16.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @HandyHowie in that it sounds like your clutch master cylinder is on the way out. Something to check before you go this route, though, is the hydraulic fluid level for the clutch. Looking at the parts involved, it looks as though while the master cylinder reservoir is remote (not attached directly to the master cylinder), it doesn't pull fluid from the brake reservoir. Due to this, I'd suggest you see if the reservoir needs to have fluid added to it. If the fluid level is low, you'll probably need to bleed the system as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, there's usually only one way a hydraulic system will get low on fluid and that is because of a leak. I'm going to bet hydraulics replacement (both master and slave cylinders) is in your future, so even if this does alleviate the issue, consider it temporary with the need to get them changed out anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T11:09:16.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26581" CreationDate="2016-02-26T12:58:23.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to a few things related to the fuel supply line, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a leaky fuel injector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minute cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bad non-return valve in the fuel line which is allowing pressurized fuel to flow backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T12:58:23.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9413" CreationDate="2016-02-26T19:06:56.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 2004 Civic LX brakes would lock up after driving and braking in traffic for about 3-8 miles but after the car was parked and engine off for about an hour or two the brakes would be all right again until the next trip. It turned out to be the Brake Light Switch. I don't understand why a switch would cause the problem but a guy at a brake shop adjusted the switch while the brakes were locked up and the car rolled free. No more problems with locking brakes since.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for anyone who has had a brake switch repaired or replaced and the brakes lock up your car check out the brake switch adjustment and the plastic stop for the switch.&#xA;Adnoh   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15359" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:39:07.190" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:39:07.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26588" CreationDate="2016-02-26T19:09:17.187" Score="6" ViewCount="21402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reports &lt;a href=&quot;http://nypost.com/2016/01/25/mom-and-son-die-of-carbon-monoxide-poisoning-while-dad-clears-snow-off-car/&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; of people dying from CO poisoning in idling cars due to &quot;clogged tailpipes&quot; are disturbingly frequent.  But how can this happen if the car is &lt;em&gt;outdoors&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, how does a modern engine respond if tailpipes are blocked?  If they are obstructed enough that exhaust can't escape the system why doesn't the engine stall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, since the engine &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; in fact somehow continue to run, how does exhaust end up in the cabin?  I'm guessing that there's an obvious weak point at which the backpressure escapes the exhaust system, and that point must be near the cabin air intake?  (But if that's the case, would setting the cabin airflow to recirculate prevent the intake of exhaust?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T00:13:47.007" Title="How does clogging tailpipes result in carbon monoxide in the cabin?" Tags="|exhaust|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T20:10:32.267" Score="4" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got both of these in the garage. What is the main ingredient in each of these and what is the difference between them? Techron/Chevron goes out of their way to obfuscate the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner (not it doesn't say Pro-Gard):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofI1k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ofI1k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Techron Concentrate Plus:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrUnN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrUnN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15360" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T11:28:08.850" Title="Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner vs Techron Concentrate Plus" Tags="|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26586" CreationDate="2016-02-26T20:41:52.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way I could explain it from that photo, is that there will not have been any snow under the car, so the exhaust fumes will have easily been able to exit from the tail pipe and spread under the car.  The fumes will then have gone into the engine compartment and from there could have been sucked in by the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively the exhaust could have had a hole anywhere along its length which once again would have allowed fumes underneath the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in perfect condition, there should be no where for fumes to exit the exhaust, other than from the tail pipe.  If the tail pipe was totally blocked, the engine would slow down and stop.  However, there is no way snow would be able to block the tail pipe sufficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the heater on recirculate may have limited the intake of fumes, but a car's passenger compartment is not air tight, so the fumes will still find a way in if the car is totally surrounded by fumes as it will have been in that photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T20:46:43.390" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T20:46:43.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17480" CreationDate="2016-02-26T21:03:15.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My BMW 650 has the same problem. I purchased a kit from Rusty at MAX BMW. Kit costs $54.00 plus shipping.  Should not be a problem to install on the exhaust cam area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0UxY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0UxY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this is the kit I was speaking about.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is the kit that MAX BMW sent me. I hope it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15362" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:55:24.310" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:55:24.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26597" CreationDate="2016-02-26T21:06:09.843" Score="2" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;When GM built the 3rd Gen Camaro, they installed T-Tops in some of them. Others they contracted out to another company to have them installed. The problem is, the T-Tops the contracted company installed were a different size than the GM installed ones. This is important if you want to replace the seals around the T-Tops to keep it from leaking. All of the places you turn to tell you the two different sizes and say you need to measure to figure out which ones were installed in your car. They don't really explain very well &lt;em&gt;what exactly to measure&lt;/em&gt;. So, my question is: &lt;strong&gt;What exactly to I need to measure and what measurement am I looking for to confirm one installation or the other?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Bonus points if you can post pictures of exactly what/how to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305cu TPI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T00:59:17.890" Title="How to actually measure a T-Top on an IROC-Z" Tags="|chevrolet|seal|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26602" CreationDate="2016-02-26T22:08:34.983" Score="12" ViewCount="99063" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there optimal RPM ranges for different vehicles? I've been told it's better for the engine to drive at slightly higher RPMs (e.g. 2500-3000 for my Tacoma) than low (1000-1500). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand a lot depends on the gear sizing and ratios for different trannies. E.g. the ratio between my 1st and 2nd gears is quite large so that, the RPM drop between those two speeds is almost 1000. That means, to avoid lugging when shifted into 2nd, I need to rev 1st up to almost 3000 RPM, which results in a less-than-pleasant engine noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an optimal RPM range for all speeds, which improves the engine longevity or is it speed specific? IOW, is it less bad to be lugging in lower speeds than higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus question, can you explain why higher RPMs are better than lower, in terms of engine health, performance and fuel efficiency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T22:13:52.567" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T20:47:02.860" Title="Optimal RPM range for manual transmission" Tags="|transmission|rpm|manual-transmission|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T23:15:43.420" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit a pot-hole the other day, and the bumper on my Yaris lost some of it's snap-on fixtures. I checked with Advanced Auto Parts, and they rudely informed me that they can't possibly stock every little part for every different car. Where should I look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:42:00.727" Title="Where can I find the little snap-on fixtures that hold my Yaris bumper in place?" Tags="|parts|yaris|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26596" CreationDate="2016-02-26T23:36:58.500" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a huge pot-hole near my house and a number of hubcaps had accumulated nearby for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the mathematical chance one of those hubcaps might match a missing hubcap on my Toyota Yaris?  Is it related to wheel / rim size, or the number of attach points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T00:44:31.710" Title="Hubcap question" Tags="|wheels|yaris|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T00:14:04.230" Score="4" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have a more accurate name, or is it just to be referred to as the steering wheel adjustment lever for all time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:32:38.697" Title="What is the technical name for the steering wheel adjustment lever?" Tags="|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26594" CreationDate="2016-02-27T00:44:31.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should honestly post this on a statistics forum, try Cross Validated. The hubcap is dependent on both the rim size AND the position and number of the lug nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T00:44:31.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26590" CreationDate="2016-02-27T00:59:17.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The easiest way to quickly identify which type you have is to measure&#xA;  the t-top glass length where the glass fits under the center t-bar:&#xA;  Factory Installed T-Tops (Fisher) = 30 1/4&quot; &amp;amp; Aftermarket Installed&#xA;  T-Tops (Cars &amp;amp; Concepts) = 28&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both C&amp;amp;C and Fisher T-tops are installed in the same place relative to the rear of the roof. Due to the C&amp;amp;C T-tops being shorter the gap between the T-tops and windshield is larger. There will also be trim hiding the weld marks on the front and rear of the T-tops.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ale9j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ale9j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T00:59:17.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T01:28:48.120" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removed frt pass side window regulator to check for normal operation works fine/up and down. Checked window motor with pwr probe for normal operation works fine/ up and down. Checked window switch with a known good switch/up not down. Checked wire harness driver side door no broken wires. Also checked drivers side rear pwr window all steps above same results/ up not down.            S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15364" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T02:07:21.070" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T03:13:00.657" Title="2004 buick century ft pass / rear driver side pwr window goes up not down" Tags="|electrical|power-windows|buick|century|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T01:38:26.797" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got some new General Tire Altimax tires and they are feeling a bit funny, like there are a thousand micro vibrations --- you can't quite feel them, but I'm worried maybe after a while, it would add up to more of a jarring sensation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some Goodyear tires before (sorry -- didn't get the model number).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15290" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:23:22.593" Title="General Tire Altimax" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T02:24:39.387" Score="7" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U80vP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U80vP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recognise this motorcycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15365" LastEditorUserId="24939" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T13:25:50.913" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T13:56:12.327" Title="Can you recognise this motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26591" CreationDate="2016-02-27T02:28:17.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is in fact true that driving at slightly (key word) higher rpms is much better (for both fuel efficiency and engine life. The rpm range for the two can be different). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 1. Engine life:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every engine has a least resonant rpm. This is when your engine vibrates the least (Think of this as the opposite of that point when your entire car begins to shake violently due to excess load). Since the vibration is minimum at this rpm, the wear and tear in the engine is minimized and so is the friction between engine components. This naturally means you have parts that run smoother and longer. This can also increase your fuel efficiency since frictional power loss is minimized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 2.Optimal fuel efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rpm range need not be the same as that for optimal engine life. Your fuel efficiency is best when you are not over working the car. This has multiple dimensions to it. Ideally, driving the car at a high gear, just shy of the midway mark on your tachometer is when the fuel efficiency is the maximum (i.e. when you are cruising) but if you demand acceleration you will burn a lot of fuel to get very little. This type of driving is best for the highway. In the city limits, it would be best to raise the engine to the sweet-spot (where the resonance is the least) and then shift to drop the rpm back down, all the while not being aggressive with the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low rpms give you better efficiency for two reasons, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynamic friction is proportional to speed. (Higher the speed, greater the friction). This applies everywhere, from the crank shaft to the piston-cylinder to the gearbox. A car can rev only so much because after a certain point, the power generated is  less than that needed to overcome the frictional force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: Lower the speed, better the efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volumetric efficiency. (Higher the speed, lower the volumetric efficiency) At low engine speeds, as the engine goes through the exhaust stroke and the suction stroke, air can easily exit and fill the engine cylinder. As the engine rpm increase it becomes harder and harder for the burnt air fuel mixture to exit the cylinder (in the exhaust stroke) and for the fresh air to enter the cylinder (in the suction stroke). This translates to wastage of power because the engine has to use some of the power generated to push the air out faster and faster. On the suction stroke, the air does not travel fast enough to fill the cylinder in the short duration that the intake valve is open. &#xA;(To make matters worse, the ECU measures the pressure at the inlet and expects a certain amount of air to enter the engine and adjusts the fuel injected accordingly, but when the expected amount of air does not enter the engine, the fuel that would otherwise have been burnt gets wasted.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Line: Lower the speed, better the efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, remember the least resonance rpm? Remember how coming closer and closer to that rpm, reduces frictional loses? This is around half way through your rev range. Hence you will get the best fuel efficiency when you are in the proximity of least resonance but low enough to take advantage of points 1 and 2. &#xA;For easier understanding, look at this graph:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woZuU.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woZuU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;This curve denotes the fuel consumption at different engine speeds&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above graph is for an engine on a test bed. For an engine on a car, the lowest point is a little to the left at around 2500 rpm (just like you stated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Screw the explanation, give me the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best fuel efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving on the highway, drive just shy of the midway mark. In the city, rev all the way up to the sweet-spot and then shift up to comeback to just shy of the mid way mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best engine life:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do what you must to stay at the sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to find the sweet spot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.Park the car (handbrake is engaged)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Start the engine, put it in second or third gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.While keeping the clutch depressed, raise the engine in steps of about 250rpm (Smaller steps if you are really particular). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.At a very exact rpm, the car will feel like it is running smoother than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.Congratulations. You have found the &quot;sweet-spot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(PS. This is harder than it sounds, but I encourage you to do it!)&#xA;&#xA;(Disclaimer: Sweet-spot is not a universally understood term, &#xA;when searching online or talking to your car buddies, use the term &#xA;&quot;Point of least resonance&quot;.)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastEditorUserId="15232" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T10:05:16.700" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T10:05:16.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26598" CreationDate="2016-02-27T03:13:00.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The body control module may regulate current flow. On older systems it was just a straight wire, no computer function. If the BCM is malfunctioning this would explain your issue. A bad ground can cause this as well. If it's a complicated circuit, sometimes you have a ground for up and ground for down. Sounds more like a  BCM issue though. You need to trace from the switch directly ALL of the way through the circuit and see whats not getting juice. &#xA;&quot;www.eautorepair.com&quot; has a plethora of wiring diagrams. Especially for GM vehicles. Since other windows are effected as well, I want to say BCM or ground. Just ran into this problem not too long ago with a dodge charger. The dealership couldn't figure it out, and it took us almost 10 hours to figure out it was the BCM &quot;sigh&quot;. Hope this helps a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T03:13:00.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T06:23:38.807" Score="3" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the exhaust pressure of Bajaj &lt;a href=&quot;http://autos.maxabout.com/bikes/bajaj/pulsar/pulsar-220f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pulsar&lt;/a&gt; 220cc engine 2014 model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the normal idling rpm of Bajaj Pulsar 220cc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a turbocharger be installed on this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15366" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:37:06.757" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T14:09:16.747" Title="what is the exhaust pressure of bajaj pulsar 220cc engine 2014 model?" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|turbocharger|pulsar|bajaj|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2016-02-27T08:32:32.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm a VAG mechanic 20 years experience, all the TDI engines need to be serviced every 30.000 KM if you are using 5w30 iso 500 to 504. DSG every 60.000 KM. Fuel filter, air filter, and cabin filter  also 60.000 KM or 2 years. Its your choice if you want to pay us more. Most of my customers have more of 600.000 KM on tacho. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15367" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:38:15.887" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:38:15.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T12:31:11.367" Score="2" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Ford Fusion (4 cylinder, manual transmission) is using a lot of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 qt every 300 miles.  No smoke, no oil spots under the car on the garage floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where could  the oil be going?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15369" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T08:39:58.860" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T09:10:52.377" Title="2006 Ford Fusion - High Oil Consumption" Tags="|ford|oil|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11701" CreationDate="2016-02-27T14:18:40.620" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the coil keeps burning through check for cracks inside the threads of spark hole. Sometimes it so small it cant be seen an even the Dodge dealer couldn't find it. Need to inspect with bore cams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15371" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T14:41:11.500" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:41:11.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T14:34:20.553" Score="2" ViewCount="6156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Chevrolet K1500 pickup and I have recently had the brake booster replaced and it worked fine for the past year but now my pedal is sticking in the pressed position but only in colder weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a booster problem or maybe the master cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15374" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T17:17:27.663" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:32:13.730" Title="my brake pedal is sticking in the depressed position in cold weather" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T15:06:38.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing symptoms that have led me to track down and diagnose the neutral switch on my 2008 Mazdaspeed3 (6-speed MT/2.3L Turbocharged).  These symptoms include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DTCs of P0507 and P0850&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When starting the car in neutral with foot off clutch, RPMs usually descend from about 1.2k to about 600 over the course of several minutes; currently, it remains high, but drops when the clutch is depressed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coming to a stop in neutral, engine occasionally dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attempted to use online manuals to locate and identify this switch (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E014017640W03.html#wp1025486&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E051501029W06.html#wp1025486&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;), but when I look in the described location (passenger-side behind No.1 engine mount) there are no wires or switches (&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwc_DI4pUjLZa0lISXNqQzdOWEk/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did look around and found some potential candidates, though.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwc_DI4pUjLZY1RoRGQ4UnFvTms/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This image&lt;/a&gt;, toward the top of the image, has wires going to two identical-looking objects that resemble the switch I'm looking for (closer view &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwc_DI4pUjLZVlE5SUpuaWl6S00/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwc_DI4pUjLZZGNTQ3hSZlNFeGM/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), with the major distinguishing characteristic that one's harness comes in from the side and the other from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate anybody who could either confirm/deny one of these switches, or otherwise direct me to the correct location.  Furthermore, since the documentation I was following was wrong to this point, I also question whether I can trust the torque specifications provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tightening torque&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;19.6-29.4 N·m&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{2.0-2.9 kgf·m, 14.5-21.6 ft·lbf}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15372" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T16:21:27.017" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:33:13.817" Title="Identifying neutral switch on 2008 mazdaspeed3 transmission" Tags="|mazda-3|manual-transmission|switches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26591" CreationDate="2016-02-27T16:07:12.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you're trying to optimize.  If you're looking for optimal acceleration, more RPMs are better.  Most engines today produce peak power at redline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for optimal efficiency, there's two parts to that as well: Turning fuel into mechanical energy as efficiently as possible, and using the least amount of fuel to cover a distance.  The engine produces the most mechanical energy per unit of fuel at moderate RPM and moderately high load.  At extremely low RPM efficiency falls off due to heat loss to the cylinder and pressure loss to blowby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're looking for the best miles per gallon and engine life, lower RPM will win every time (assuming the engine isn't lugging, which you'll know because it will sound like a jackhammer).  The engine may not be at its peak efficiency, but you won't be wasting gas making power you don't need.  At a steady speed, a higher gear produces a lower RPM, and spinning the engine slower takes less fuel than spinning the engine faster, simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for lugging, that's really hard to do with a well designed and computer controlled engine.  In a modern car, the computer controls the throttle opening, fuel injection, and spark timing, and so even if you floor the accelerator at 1000 RPM, the computer will make sure the engine isn't over stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to know a guy who had an 80s Honda, and he'd be in 5th gear at about 30 mph with the engine shaking away.  He got 50+ mpg and his car had 250k miles when he gave it to his daughter.  It was uncomfortable as heck but apparently it didn't have any ill effects on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T16:07:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2016-02-27T16:16:19.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2003 2.0 Jetta which has the same issues. Upon further study and inspection I find that when there is moisture in the air, either raining or dense fog, the car either will be hard to start or will not start at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pop the hood I notice that ALL of the electrical components in the car have condensation on them. For example, even though the battery cover is on and completely shelters the battery from any water contacting it condensation forms on both terminal connections - a lot of it, enough so that its almost completely soaked. So, I checked the alternator and starter, and found the same thing. Thus, obviously, the rough idle. I cannot ever tell which one is the culprit so I wipe them all down and wait. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot even use this car if it has been left out overnight in the rain at all. It will take a full day to dry out and operate fine. For some reason, the car collects moisture on all of it's important electrical components and even if they are under cover the evaporation from the ground and subsequent heating and cooling during the night is enough to cause this to happen. I'm not sure how one can correct this. Look and observe for yourself and see if it is doing the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15376" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T13:08:23.877" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:08:23.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6276" CreationDate="2016-02-27T16:20:57.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a revelation after the manual transmission in my '97 Ford was replaced three times under warranty:  Quality is more important than any inherent design advantage of automatic vs manual.  As I see it, manufacturers make a lot of automatic transmissions and they put a lot of effort into making them reliable and durable.   They don't sell many manuals in the US, so they don't put the development effort into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, I got a series of bad transmissions until they finally put a stop ship on them, and a couple months later I finally got one that lasted over 100k miles.  But even though this one has been &quot;trouble free&quot;, it is still somewhat balky and sometimes doesn't want to go into gear on the first try, especially as it gets older.  It's really embarrassing when you roar away from the light in first and then can't find second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a similar thing with crank windows.  Most cars have power windows nowadays, and if you find one that does have manual windows (like my Ford), they're cheaply made and don't wind as smoothly as they used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never worn out an automatic transmission, or a manual for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T16:20:57.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2016-02-27T17:50:23.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cat O2 sensor code 421 and 431 cause no damage to vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cheap fix, buy 18mm spark plug anti-foulers &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill out center with 1/2 drill bit. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw  screw fouler into exaust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Screw O2 sensor into fouler.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost $4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15378" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T00:34:58.897" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:34:58.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11608" CreationDate="2016-02-27T18:36:00.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;after much reserch and am a military vehicle mecanic who runs 2 older peugeot diesels the one to be aware of is C rated oils are very LOW content zddp.. the old school lube booster problem is if ur engin is a bit old as mine are late 90s there metterery isent hard enough to deal with the reduced lubricancy of C rated oils increased wear will result if ure car glove box book dosent say use c rated MODERN oils DONT!!! there are loads of good oils about that are TRADITIONALin formulation  look on e bay -- if its diesel oil you want for an older engin look for a API--CH diesel oil literla search this on e bay oldr formula SHPD oil high in detergent //zddp for the way ur engin was made for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15379" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T18:36:00.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26610" CreationDate="2016-02-27T18:50:49.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brakes are firmly on while the pedal is stuck down, then the fault will be in the booster.  One of the vacuum valves in the booster may be sticking in the cold, or an leak may form in the rear of booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brakes are not on, then it could be the master cylinder if you are not loosing fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T18:50:49.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T19:00:35.127" Score="6" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to get some help diagnosing a kickstarter issue I'm having, so I can figure out what my next steps should be (if any) on the 1981 Yamaha XS400 I'm attempting to rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When attempting to move the kickstarter down (on any gear including neutral), it stops after traveling about 30 degrees, like it's hitting a wall. No amount of pressure makes it budge. If I back up to the very top, and try again, it will still stop at the same point. If, however, I back up only a few degrees and try again, it will pass the point where it first stopped, and hit another block after another 30 degrees or so. There are 3 or 4 of these points in the full travel of the kickstarter down to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that this is a new motor and transmission, I swapped out the last pair because I came to the conclusion that the last engine lacked any sort of compression (could be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried checking the oil for brass shaving, after researching this issue online, but no luck. I've drained and replaced the oil in the engine soon after buying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous owner said engine did turn over before being pulled. If it's the engine/tranny itself that's trashed, are there parts I could swap from the old engine/tranny to make something that worked? Did not have this kickstart issue on last pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14987" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T19:18:23.937" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:48:27.217" Title="Motorcycle kickstarter locks at certain point" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26622" CreationDate="2016-02-27T19:27:09.283" Score="8" ViewCount="2564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading in a few places that air filters get better with age, is this true? And how much better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have any effect on quality of the oil or make oil dirty faster? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there not a great deal of difference between new and used filters? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-08-30T18:59:30.317" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T18:59:30.317" Title="Do air filters purify air better with age?" Tags="|engine|oil|air-intake|air-filter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26601" CreationDate="2016-02-27T19:59:15.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's a '41(?) Harley Flathead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0d1C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;41 flathead&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14987" LastEditorUserId="24939" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T13:56:12.327" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T13:56:12.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26624" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:00:42.930" Score="5" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to magnetize my screwdriver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I magnetize my screwdriver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:21:32.233" Title="Why would I want to magnetize a screwdriver?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26619" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:03:44.103" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any empirical evidence for this, but would say no for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An air filter will collect more dust, dirt, and debris until it gets so full that it starts pushing the older dust, dirt, and debris through the filter, which is what you are trying to prevent in the first place. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the air filter collects more dust, dirt, and debris, the filter element becomes more restricted causing less air to flow into the engine, hurting performance and fuel mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dirty filter will not make oil dirtier faster, but as it gets so full and the dust, dirt, and debris (hereafter called &quot;stuff&quot;) starts pushing its way into the intake tract, it will cause buildup inside the engine. The &quot;stuff&quot; will get into the engine combustion chamber and create excess wear on all the moving parts. There is basically no way for the &quot;stuff&quot; to get into the oil. Oil gets dirty usually from cleaning excess hydrocarbons off of working parts and from the oil itself breaking down due to heat and age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the difference between new and old filter, a new filter will clean the air: an old filter won't do such a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:03:44.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26625" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:04:32.043" Score="7" ViewCount="19548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a tap and die set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I use a tap and a die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T20:25:56.867" Title="What is a tap and die set and how do I use them?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26621" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:21:32.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you dont want the screw to fall off the screwdriver when you are putting a screw into a difficult place the a magnetic screwdriver is useful.I find that it works well on small screws like M3 phillips .If you are undoing a screw then the screw stays attached to the srcewdriver greatly reducing the likelyhood of loosing the screw. I magnetise my screwdrivers when needed by simply rubbing them against a strong permanent magnet .The permanent magnets are from dead loudspeakers and are normally employed as fridge magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:21:32.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26623" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:24:22.913" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tap and die set allows one to create threads for bolts and screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;tap wrench&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is used in conjunction with a tap (that looks like a drillto create &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;internal (female) threads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in metal sheets or blocks, for screws and bolts to fasten onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of tap will govern the diameter and pitch of the resultant internal thread.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;die stock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is used in conjunction with a die to create &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;external (male) threads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, usually on plain rods, for nuts to fasten onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of die will govern the diameter and pitch of the resultant external thread.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tap Wrench&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e17EN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e17EN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tap Wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Taps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFPz5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFPz5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Die Stock&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHaJR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHaJR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Die Stock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQtQJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQtQJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dies&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:24:22.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26623" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:24:40.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tap and die set are tools used to cut (ie: create) threads in metal as well as cleaning up already exiting threads. A typical tap and die set will look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cStwP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cStwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set will come in SAE or Metric, covering both fine and coarse thread pitches. There are three basic items to be found in the set. The tap (long straight pieces) which are used to cut threads on the inside of metal, like in making a bolt hole. The die (round pieces) are used to cut threads on the outside of metal, like for creating threads on bar stock. The two two long  pieces at the top of the set are the handles which allows you to use the tap (top) and die (bottom). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use a tap, you need to have a starter hole of the appropriate size. This is going to be just a bit smaller than final size of the threaded area you are trying to create. Take the tap out of the case and insert the square end into the tap handle. Place the tap square to the drilled area and carefully begin turning the handle. You'll want to use copious amounts of cutting fluid (WD-40 works well for this). You start to feel the teeth on the tap bite into the metal. As soon as you feel an appreciable amount of resistance, you'll want to back the tap off of it some to allow the cutting teeth to clear the debris, then turn the tap back into the cut. Run the tap down the distance needed for threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A die is used much the same way as a tap as far as how to cut the threads. You'll want to make sure the stock you are using is small enough for the die to be able to make the initial cuts. You'll also want to hold the stock in a bench vise so it will stay still while cutting the threads. Sometimes it makes it easier to start the cut if you bevel the leading edge using a bench grinder. To start the cut, keep the die perpendicular to your stock. While starting to turn, press down on the die until you start to feel the teeth bite into the stock. Again, use some type of cutting oil to keep things lubricated. Run the die down some, then back it off to clear the cutting teeth. Continue cutting down the stock for the length of threads needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is of note that cut threads on stock using a die will not create the same strength as rolled threads you'll get from a normal bolt you pick up that the hardware store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also hear the term &quot;chase the threads&quot; or just &quot;chase threads&quot; used in conjunction with taps/dies. This is the process of cleaning up threads which may have been damaged during whatever work may have been going on. It is the same basic process as creating new threads, but you are only trying to get the old threads back to a usable state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:24:40.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26611" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:33:13.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up diagnosing those connectors by disconnecting them from their respective harnesses and doing continuity tests while they were plugged in.  Thankfully, the switch was still working (turns out the problem was a cut harness further up the line, probably the result of a recent trip to the mechanic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The port at the bottom of the transmission is the neutral switch, which is closed when the transmission is in neutral and open when in gear.  The top switch ended up registering as closed when the transmission was shifted into reverse, and open at all other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15372" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:33:13.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25350" CreationDate="2016-02-27T20:40:59.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A portable recharging device would be a generator. Rapid charging will raise battery temperature. It's deemed to be OK to do it sometimes, but not all the time. Remember that the batteries age naturally just like we do. I suppose it's like drinking and/or smoking - you can't do it all the time. Everything in moderation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been theorized that brake pads will last a very long time because of the regenerative braking system doing about 80% of the work. The solar panel on My 2011 Leaf is configured to recharge the accessory battery only. I like my Leaf and run high Kms. The jury is still out on how long the expensive lithium packs will last before replacement is necessary.Some people are saying that the capacity of the battery will slowly degrade which will make the vehicle useless at some application dependent point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="33222" LastEditDate="2020-06-27T18:01:28.180" LastActivityDate="2020-06-27T18:01:28.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26623" CreationDate="2016-02-27T21:01:01.223" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Paulster and Zaid's answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the tool you are using is hard enough for the metal you are trying to work. There are cheap sets out there that will only work on nonferrous metal and will be instantly ruined even by use on mild steel. Don't waste money on such a set. Decide if the hardest material you will cut will be mild steel or stainless steel and buy a decent set accordingly. The dies should last a lifetime. The taps less so (see below) so you should expect to buy individual taps periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate and back off your work regularly to clear out the chips of metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dies are generally no problem, provided you start with a rod of the correct diameter. A high quality die will be split on one side. With the correct die stock, that enables you to spread the die open for an initial cut (hold it using the centre screw in Zaid's image), then start again but close it more for a final cut (hold it using the other two screws in Zaid's image.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taps, however, are much more of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good set of taps will contain three taps of the same thread diameter/pitch. The first will be strongly tapered, enabling an easy first cut. The last will have a square end for bottoming out blind holes. The second will be intermediate between these two in form. If you only intend to make through holes, you can get away with the first one. On the other hand, trying to start a thread with the last one is impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taps are hard and therefore brittle. Small taps break very easily. Larger taps don't break so easily (though I have managed to break an M12 tap on stainless after it got stuck and refused to move forwards or backwards.) Any decent tap is too hard to drill out, so proceed with caution, as a broken tap can be a real problem. Do all of the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mount your work firmly. If you are tapping a blind hole, you should also make sure you can invert your work easily to remove chips. (Yes this may be a major issue with something like an engine block, but tackling anything more than chasing out existing threads without proper access is unwise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill a straight hole in the correct diameter (It's easy to google tables for the correct drill size, and some of them are slightly unusual.) Depending on your application, you may be able to get away with a slightly larger hole diameter. Going even 0.1mm smaller because you don't have the right drill is asking for a broken tap, unless you are using aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you keep the tap straight as you start the cut. Tap wrenches are symmetrical to help you avoid applying sideways force on the tap. When using a small tap, try to obtain and use a correspondingly small wrench (a 3mm tap with a wrench designed for 12mm is a pretty clumsy combination.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back off regularly to release chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proceed slowly and calmly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the tap straight and avoid lateral force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tap breaks go here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZsjj7pqBXc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZsjj7pqBXc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see this question for broken drills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24569/11767&quot;&gt;How do I remove a broken drill bit from metal?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T20:25:56.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26653" CreationDate="2016-02-27T21:02:51.500" Score="5" ViewCount="2326" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the use of left-handed thread is not as uncommon as I once thought. Unfortunately, finding replacement left-handed nuts, bolts and screws isn't easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while back, I damaged the thread on a left-handed nut that was meant to secure a radiator fan on my Chevy. The nut was unusable. No mechanic or dealer had a replacement in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to get creative in order to reinstall the fan, so I cut regular right-handed thread onto the fan motor shaft with a die, dabbed on some red Loctite, secured the fan with a regular nut and called it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a part as simple as a nut, it makes little economic sense to purchase a specialist tap-and-die set designed to cut left-handed thread. It doesn't help that any left-handed fastener is extremely difficult to source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what other tricks or workarounds could a person without access to a specialist tap-and-die set utilize in order to overcome the absence of left-handed fasteners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:30:32.680" Title="Alternatives to left-handed thread without resorting to specialist tools" Tags="|fastener|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26619" CreationDate="2016-02-27T21:05:17.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what you mean by getting better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that, as the very small holes in the filter that let air through start to trap particles, the places where air can get through will get smaller and smaller.  Therefore the filter will start to trap smaller and smaller particles.  The air filter may get more efficient at filtering, but it will also start letting less and less air through for the engine to breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some fine particles that get into the engine may possible get passed the piston rings into the oil and make the oil dirty, but the majority of dirt in the oil will be combustion soot that gets past the piston rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T21:17:33.800" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T21:17:33.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:17:13.190" Score="4" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has not been driven for a while and it is having trouble and sticking when shifting gears. Should I continue to drive it and will this problem fix itself or is there something I can buy like an oil additive or does it need a service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't stick before I stopped driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15382" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:13:23.407" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:13:23.407" Title="Automatic transmission sticking after car has not been driven for 3 months" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|idle|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26639" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:44:51.337" Score="6" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working in my grandson's car.  His idle goes up and down with the A/C off. I can't figure out where the IAC is. He just bought it and we don't have manuals or diagrams yet.  Can someone help me figure out the IAC location? I want to take the old one to our parts store to make sure the replacement is the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14094" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T20:58:21.953" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T20:58:21.953" Title="Where is IAC valve on 2003 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder?" Tags="|ford|ranger|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T22:48:33.717" Score="5" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a valve adjustment on my 50 cc Pantere Fusion moped, and in the process my ground wire to my moped came completely off. I don't know if that's my problem or not though. I adjusted the valves on my moped to .003. That's what my local moped shop (Lesslie Motorsports) told me to set it at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to ground the one negative ground wire to the frame and hooked it to the battery. It cranks just fine if it's on the kick stand and I'm sitting on it. But as soon as I take it off the kick stand it cuts off. The thing is it won't even turn over if it's not up in the kick stand and I have to be sitting on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15384" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T23:56:03.453" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T23:56:03.453" Title="Battery cuts on a moped when off the kick stand" Tags="|starting|moped|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26642" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:20:40.030" Score="4" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Motorcraft 2150 carb which has some pretty bad pitting on the main body. The pitting caused like two small holes and is causing fuel to slowly drip. I can only see the holes from the outside of the body and I'm not sure where it's leaking from on the inside...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a hole on the bottom that looks like it was filled with jbweld or something, but the jbweld must've deteriorated when I rebuilt it (it's the picture with the throttle plates and power valve). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these safe to use jbweld on or something similar? What would be the best option, aside from replacing the entire carb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsWW7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsWW7.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T23:44:03.963" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T16:08:48.643" Title="Bad pitting on carburetor causing small fuel leak" Tags="|ford|carburetor|leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26638" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:35:25.040" Score="6" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a windshield crack on a new vehicle that I originally thought was a stress crack, since it appears to originate at the edge and move toward the center, and I did not ever notice any impacts occur. However, when looking closely I see at one point in the &quot;fault line&quot; a pattern that could maybe be argued is an impact site. I guess the real question is: could something like this develop in the middle of a stress crack, or does the existence of this pattern mean it is undeniably an impact crack? I realize photos can only convey so much, so hopefully they are helpful. I took &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qfW4n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two photos&lt;/a&gt;, in the first one the windshield is still dirty, but I think the crack is focused better there. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZ6go.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZ6go.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15385" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T23:59:43.200" Title="Is this windshield crack definitely caused by impact?" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26635" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:54:31.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to use an epoxy to plug the holes. It wouldn't take much to make it happen. When you are looking for epoxy, you want to ensure it is &lt;em&gt;fuel and solvent resistant&lt;/em&gt;, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/fuel-tank-and-radiator-epoxy/versachem-1-06-oz-plastic-gas-tank-and-radiator-repair-kit/382799_0_0/?checkfit=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VersaChem&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westmarine.com/buy/travaco--marine-tex-repair-kit--P004_120_005_502&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Travaco Marine Tex&lt;/a&gt; ... Mind you, I'm not recommending &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; of those products, just pointing them out so you know what to look for when trying to buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use, make sure it is &lt;em&gt;fully cured&lt;/em&gt; before you reassemble everything. This may or may not work. I would expect whether it works or not, you'll want to get a new carburetor to replace this one anyway. You can go one of two ways: 1) get a completely new carb; 2) purchase a used one and rebuild it (or get it rebuilt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T23:54:31.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26636" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:59:43.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell you with 100% surety this was caused by an impact, but &lt;strong&gt;I'd suggest it probably was&lt;/strong&gt;. Glass is a strange beast. It does have some flexibility to it, but if you get a stress riser in it, a crack can form. A rock impact creates a &lt;em&gt;HUGE&lt;/em&gt; stress riser in the glass and the crack runs from there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to know more about stress risers, you can read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18184/4152&quot;&gt;this Q&amp;amp;A I wrote&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T23:59:43.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26633" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:10:39.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the 2.3L 4cyl, it should be here just behind the throttle body on the passenger side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sx9nN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sx9nN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the V6 (either 3.0 or 4.0), I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it should be right on top of the intake like it is on this V6 Escape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RqOM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RqOM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't there on the V6, you should still be looking for the same shaped part. It should be on the outside of the intake near the front and is usually plainly visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:10:39.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:13:59.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's okay. As long as you are letting go of the clutch by a little bit and at the same time, you give it a little bit of gas. If you just let go of the clutch without giving any gas in first gear, you can go forward/fast then the car will just stall. I'm only 14 and I just know about this because of my brother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15386" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T00:35:34.090" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:35:34.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26634" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:14:43.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked the service manual for your vehicle.  I'm not sure if it's the correct year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most motorcycles have a kickstand ignition cutout.  If you put it in gear with your kickstand down then it kills the ignition so you can't ride the motorcycle with the kickstand down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The service manual does not show this type of a switch on your vehicle.  I also checked the entire wiring diagram for the ignition system and can't find a device on your bike that would explain your condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/PANTERRA%2050cc%20Street%20Scooter%20Service%20Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt;.  Section 15 is where the ignition system starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting on page 21 there are troubleshooting guides that may be of some assistance.  Weird issue, I wish I could contribute more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:14:43.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26635" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:25:38.353" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JB Weld is gasoline resistant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would disassemble the carburetor and inspect suspicious cracked components prior to applying any epoxy to the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure components are absolutely clean&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;inspect gasket surfaces for anomalies and remediate any issues you find&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;validate suspected cracks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I used to do this sort of thing to keep something on the road for the least possible financial investment I focused on cleaning the items thoroughly and visually inspecting them.  A magnifying glass or a loupe will work well for that.  I would also bake the parts at about 225°F after applying epoxy to accelerate the curing.  I've been told not to do that but have never taken the 'advice' and had great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also go air leak hunting by using this test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24712/what-is-the-propane-test-and-how-is-it-carried-out&quot;&gt;Propane Test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Carb Cleaner Test&lt;/a&gt;, there's a troubleshooting lean condition section toward the bottom of the answer.  It was written for motorcycles but applies to your situation where you confounded by unmetered air entering your system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T16:08:48.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26618" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:48:27.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most Kick Starters Have a Relative Position They Need To Be In&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean by this is, you can get your kickstarter into the system and mount it up bet if you do not put the shaft in at the correct degree it won't operate properly.  Think of cam timing.  Perhaps a poor analogy but....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004207bf8700209bc786eb0/kick-starter&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look at this parts diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On shaft 9 and gear 11 you need to have them set up relative to one another.  The spring holder tab at the end of the shaft needs to be pointing at approximately 90 degrees up when the shaft and gear are inserted into the case and gear 11 meshes wit the outer clutch basket idler gear.  When you have the relative position correct you will be able to depress the kick starter all the way down.  If not, the tab will the bottom of the cover when you install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to have good pliers for the springs or spring pullers (much better).  If you don't have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=spring%20puller&amp;amp;oq=spring%20puller&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0l6.1895j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot;&gt;spring puller&lt;/a&gt; and you are a motorcyclist, get one.  It's super handy motorcyclist tool and you will be working with a few quite brutal springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T00:48:27.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26619" CreationDate="2016-02-28T05:33:57.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are discussing paper or cardboard air filters for the engine they degrade overtime and have to be changed. Oil filters are suggested to be changed with every oil change. There are generally two types of air filters a Cabin air filter and a engine air filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is better in the long run to get a reusable air filter that can be washed and re-oiled to trap dirt and dust better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older vehicles like ones with carburetors that had air-filters that were round or oval shaped would get poor fuel economy due to dirty air filters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today dirty air filters do not really disturb fuel economy because of computer components. However, engine performance is changed with a dirty air filter regardless of the autos age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T05:33:57.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26632" CreationDate="2016-02-28T05:43:41.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try Zmax Micro lubricant it's trusted by many automotive television shows. It was used by the late great automotive guru Carroll Shelby. It should work well  since Carroll suggested the brand and put it in his own cars that went off the showroom floor, according to the commercial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video link that explains and demonstrates what Zmax does for transmissions. All credit goes to the people in the video and the Zmax Youtube channel and Zmax itself &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcNs-Fc8V_Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcNs-Fc8V_Y&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastEditorUserId="15391" LastEditDate="2016-03-13T01:16:52.597" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T01:16:52.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26649" CreationDate="2016-02-27T12:04:32.280" Score="0" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify the burned chip on this circuit board?&#xA;It is a Chinese motorcycle dashboard, but the design is probably from Kawasaki Rouser.&#xA;The chip might not be burned, but one pin is broken so I want to try replacing it with a new one, but have no idea what it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPUr8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPUr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4sSa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4sSa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15397" OwnerDisplayName="ajayver" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T08:39:12.377" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T20:53:16.500" Title="Identify partly burned chip on a circuit board" Tags="|motorcycle|part-identification|dashboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26647" CreationDate="2016-02-27T13:49:49.873" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This unit is toast.  Replacing the one obviously burnt chip will not fix the problem, and may just cause the new chip to get blown up too.  Something bad happened to this board, which clearly caused more than one chip to be damaged.  Get a new one and this time don't short the output, hook it up the wrong way to the battery, or whatever caused the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the vaporized trace to the left of the top electrolytic capacitor.  A lot of current went thru there.  A little bit of the copper is still left near the capacitor.  I also don't like the bulging top of the cap, and the fact that this is apparently a no-name type without a vent.  When it goes, it's going to take a lot more stuff with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, the burnt chip is just one symptom of a much larger problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Olin Lathrop" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T13:49:49.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26647" CreationDate="2016-02-27T16:59:46.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a 5V LDO linear regulator, seemingly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=NCV4275ADT50RKG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NCV4275A&lt;/a&gt;. Here is what it should look like if it weren't half burned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sUY0s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of NCV4275A5 regulators&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The burned trace and bulged 50V 220µF capacitor are on the input side; the two 100µF 16V capacitors appear to be on the output. The former will definitely have to be fixed along with the replacement of this regulator, but, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/219694/&quot;&gt;Olin points out&lt;/a&gt;, there may be more extensive damage that isn't visually apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Oleksandr R." LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T20:53:16.500" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T20:53:16.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26619" CreationDate="2016-02-28T06:21:05.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The function any filter is to remove small particals. In an air filter,the air is purified form dust particals before entering in to carburattor for mixing of fuel with air. So if tha filter is already full of dust its efficiency to clean the air us reduced and also there would be a blockage in tha air passage  . Hence aged filter does not leads any betterment to the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T06:21:05.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T12:26:45.930" Score="5" ViewCount="1899" Body="&lt;p&gt;short background, my car battery will often be too flat to start the car if I don't use it for about 48 hours. Worst it happened the other day after leaving it at airport car park for 4 days and come 10pm ready to go home it was flat, AA came and it was reading 7 volts. Took car to Kwik Fit next day for a battery check and came back no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given the battery's health seems to be fine, after doing some reading I thought I would get a multimeter to check how many amps the battery is using when the car isn't running, as my assumption is there must be a drain from somewhere. I managed to use it to check the volts late last night (12.56) and this morning, it was around 12.26. Following some guides (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain&lt;/a&gt;) I tried to check the amps but when I do it, I believe I see a 3.something come up on the multimeter but when putting the test probe on the end of the black cable onto the negative battery post, it creates a spark, and so naturally I just took the probe off it straight away as to not cause any (further) damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the multimeter I bought - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7015603.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7015603.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2004 Subaru Impreza GX Sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When checking the amps I put the black cable in the COM port and the RED cable in the 10A port and set the dial to A_ (DC) 20m/10A (just to the bottom left of the dial)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't know if those settings are right and why there would be sparks? Don't know if it is a problem with the car/battery terminals/posts or just the settings on the multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated as I really want to just be able to measure the amps so I can find a paristic battery drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15395" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T05:21:36.220" Title="Multimeter to check car battery current" Tags="|battery|subaru|car|multimeter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26630" CreationDate="2016-02-28T12:56:39.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tool known as a thread file. While it is a semi specialty tool, it is common for garages to own one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Fbck.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Fbck.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thread file only depends on the thread pitch and independent of both the diameter of the fastener and whether it is left hand or right hand thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBFfg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBFfg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the ends the tool also includes files meant for internal threads. There is a size limit to the diameter of the internal threads that can be repaired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T12:56:39.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26651" CreationDate="2016-02-28T13:24:22.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check the battery voltage a meter is connected in parallel. This involves touching the black lead to the negative battery terminal and the red lead to the positive battery. In this configuration the meter has a very high resistance (usually over 2 million ohms). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking current is done differently, in series. If you did the procedure above you may have damaged your meter or blown the meter fuse. To check current disconnect the negative battery cable. Connect the black lead to the now naked battery post. Connect the red lead to the battery cable. Current will now flow through the meter allowing it to be measured. In this configuration the meter has a very low resistance (usually just a couple of ohms). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the meter to the 10A range. After the battery is disconnected and the meter is connected there will be a sudden inrush. If you use the 20mA setting the meter fuse may be blown during the inrush. After the inrush allow the car to fall asleep. This may take some time, sometimes upwards of an hour. A rough rule of thumb is less than 25mA of draw when the car is fully asleep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvQEE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvQEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute best way to check it is to use a battery disconnect. Install this between the negative terminal and the negative battery post. Drive the car for a day or two. In the morning before going somewhere connect the meter across the green nob. Make sure that the leads are well connected and don't fall off. Now twist the green nob to disconnect the battery and read the current consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T15:25:15.653" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T15:25:15.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26635" CreationDate="2016-02-28T14:05:38.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used some aluminium 'soldering' or 'brazing' rods that you can heat with a propane blow torch to repair aluminium components like this.  The rods are made mainly of zinc and are sold by a number of companies. If done correctly, they will make a permanent fix on aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get some, have a practice on some scrap aluminium first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See, for example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/aluminum-brazing-rods.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/aluminum-brazing-rods.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T14:05:38.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T14:07:22.583" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;After performing tune up to the car due to misfiring replacing&#xA;spark pugs &#xA;new wires&#xA;new gas filter&#xA;When finished and started the car a lot of water came out of the exhaust like never saw it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why this happened?&#xA;is this Normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15396" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T22:22:51.710" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T01:39:05.693" Title="After perfoming tune up to my jetta 2.0" Tags="|vw|exhaust|sparkplugs|jetta|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T16:58:03.837" Score="4" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Civic. Sometimes when pushing on the gas at a slow pace around town the rpm jump up and it's difficult to accelerate. Once doing 60 it doesn't appear to do it. Does the transmission need flushed? I have an automatic transmission with 187,677 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15399" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T17:36:47.917" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T23:01:42.067" Title="2004 Honda Civic ex rpm spike and lose acceleration." Tags="|honda|transmission|civic|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11701" CreationDate="2016-02-28T20:29:08.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Chryslers it's the other way around. When the PCM detects concurrent misfires on a cylinder it'll shutdown injector pulse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check pin 1 on the coil harness tan/orange for signal from the PCM and pin 7 on PCM connector 2. If you're seeing voltage drop on the power side of the coil you're gonna have to unwrap some tape and check your splice and wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T20:29:08.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26669" CreationDate="2016-02-28T22:48:25.023" Score="5" ViewCount="8130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one rear rotor that is partially rusted on the braking surface and the rust won't go away.  I tried scraping down the surface to even it out, and then the entire surface looked rusted. I had hoped that the pads would wear away the rust to expose the braking surface underneath, but only part of the rust wore away.  I took pictures of the right rear pad before and after the scraping down, and also what the left one looks like for comparison.  It seems like there is still a good deal of life left on the left rotor and also the pad, so I don't want to prematurely replace them if I can still get a good amount of use out of them. I am wondering if replacing just the right rotor would be alright, or if it looks like I'll have to replace the left side rotor/pads soon anyway and I should just do both rotors at the same time (and also do the pads while I'm at it).&#xA;I have attached the following photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right rear rotor before scraping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right rear rotor after scraping and driving a few weeks&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiWSC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiWSC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Left rear rotor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left rear pad&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: my car is a 2007 Mazda 3 GT 2.3L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: After I scraped the rotor, I tried using just the hand brake to stop to scrape more of the rust, and the brakes would kind of pulsate, as if the pad was partially catching on some parts of the rotor only. It eventually started doing this when I use all four brakes and get close to stopping, but it's much more pronounced when using just the rear brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15404" LastEditorUserId="15404" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T06:19:16.193" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T18:28:03.420" Title="Do I need to replace just my one rusted rear rotor, or do I need to replace both rear rotors?" Tags="|brake-rotor|rust|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26657" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:01:42.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This symptom suggests a slipping clutch in the transmission. To rule out other problems make sure the fluid is full and no leaks are present. The fluid should be red not brown.  Changing the fluid, even if it is of poor quality, is unlikely to change the felt clutch slip symptom. In almost all cases like this the transmission will need substantial repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T23:01:42.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26659" CreationDate="2016-02-29T01:11:12.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a vehicle that is driven regularly I would check that the rear brakes are working correctly. When things are working correctly the pads should remove the slight rust that forms. That is a lot of rust for a vehicle that is driven frequently. You can do a simple test by raising the rear wheels. While an assistant steps on the brakes see if you can turn the wheels by hand. (they have to be really bad to see this) You can also try a panic stop on a sandy or gravel section of driveway and check for skid marks. I believe either the pads are seized in the mounting brackets or the caliper is not moving on the slides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T01:11:12.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26656" CreationDate="2016-02-29T01:39:05.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the exhaust does not smell sweet, you should be in good shape. With the misfire, you could have been dumping excess amounts of unburnt fuel, which could account for the water. If the engine is now running good and you don't continually see excessive amounts of water sloshing out, the is probably nothing to worry about. If you haven't done so already, run the vehicle long enough to ensure the exhaust system gets completely up to operating temperature for a good period of time ... like about 30 minutes of highway driving. This will ensure any residual water in the system has be evaporated out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T01:39:05.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T05:39:03.263" Score="3" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many a times, the dealer guy says that the unclean air filter consumes more fuel as compared to clean. So, my question is, is this really related to air filter?&#xA;If yes, can we determine the case using OBD2 pid, that the air filter replacement or cleaning required for optimum mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T08:23:15.770" Title="Can we determine the Cleaning Requirement of Air Filter Using OBD" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|air-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26676" CreationDate="2016-02-29T07:36:21.750" Score="3" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I tried doing an &quot; tune up&quot; on my car. It had just a transmission fluid replacement(with synthetic fluid) and had a couple of solenoids replaced. I had an oil change less than a month ago (with synthetic fluids as well).I decided to push the car a little bit to see if it will be ok. I made a wide open throttle on D (My car has the manual shift ability, but I used D for this occassion) on 2nd gear and pushed it to around 5000rpm then shifted automatically to 3rd and did the same thing. I had a mate with me and we were pushing it to just above 100 kph (speed limit) then we would slow down again to around 60 then repeat the process around 6-10 times. After which we had a couple of stoplights where I drove normally again. When we parked the car, I noticed that there slight burnt smell. From experience I do know that it is the transmission fluid. We drove it again after an hour though normally this time but we drove to a mountainous area (with me and 4 passengers).Again after an hour When we climbed down and drove home. I noticed that the smell seemed to be gone except for a few traces. I did not notice any problems with the transmission too, though I haven't checked the trans fluid yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just like to know if the transmission could handle doing 4-5000 rpms (6000 ++ rpm seems to be the limit on my car) It's the standard transmission on my car with just synthetic fluids on. Because if it should then there shouldn't be any problems with my trans running under load(with just 2 people on board). Because if it can't, I'll try to be more careful with the transmission. I am just curious as to why there seems to be a smell to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T08:02:58.503" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T08:59:27.033" Title="Mazda 3 fn4a -el transmission on tune up" Tags="|transmission|mazda|tune-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T08:18:48.903" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have serious problem with the oem tyres supplied 265/40R21 y 105. These tyres are getting damaged on pothole filled roads or on a bad rough road. i was told it happens because these aer low profile tyres. i want to put rugged high profile tyres.will any of these combinations  work  265/60R 18 or 265/70 R 16. how are good year eagle 255/50R 21.106 w. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15411" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T09:22:01.917" Title="can i change oem tyre 256/40R21 105 y to 265/60R 18 or 265/70 R 16 on my mercedes ml 350" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26664" CreationDate="2016-02-29T08:23:15.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern gasoline engines have sensors to measure the amount of air that enters the engine.  The ECU then injects fuel to give the correct mixture to get the most efficient burn.  A dirty air filter will first show itself by limiting the flow of air at high throttle positions.  Rather than causing a rich mixture however, the ECU will see the low air flow and inject fuel as appropriate.  What you may notice, is a lack of power, not an increase in fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A diesel engine is lean burn engine and also has metering.  The throttle determines how much fuel is injected, but once again, the ECU knows how much air has been taken into the engine and will not allow more to be injected than will give an efficient burn.  So a dirty filter will only affect performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could possibly use the OBD2 parameters to monitor the throttle position in a gasoline engine and compare it to air flow and determine over a long period how the dirty air filter is affecting air flow, but I can't imagine it being very accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T08:23:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T09:47:18.087" Score="7" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 51 plate (2001 model for the Americans on the exchange) Clio has started occasionally making a horrible grinding sound instead of starting the car. Alternatively it sometimes just makes a whizzing sound. For example, this morning it made a funny whizz sound (bit like a motor might make when not attached to anything) twice, then a horrible grindy noise once, then finally started the car (after it turned the engine over once or twice - cold day here in sunny England!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is common, and it often struggles a bit when it does make the car start, so I think its a case that the starter needs replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replace the starter with a new one, will I need to replace the starter ring gear too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has occasionally been making the grinding sound for the last month or so, but it's just recently started doing this new whizzing sound.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastEditorUserId="13131" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T10:42:01.530" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T10:42:01.530" Title="Replacing a starter motor: will i need to replace the ring gear?" Tags="|starter|clio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26659" CreationDate="2016-02-29T09:55:26.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided that the other disc is still within acceptable tolerances with regards to width, you can replace a single disc.  I personally prefer to replace discs as a pair on the basis that if one side is worn close to its useful life, the other is likely in a similar state.  You could look at having the discs turned on a brake lathe as an alternative to replacement but I suspect there isn't enough metal on the rusty disc to make this a viable alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly suggest that you check the operation of the caliper, brake slides and ensure that the pads or piston on the rusty sides caliper and not jammed / faulty.  Looking at the wear exhibited, it would suggest that braking effort is not being correctly applied to the rusty disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T09:55:26.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26666" CreationDate="2016-02-29T09:58:16.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't fit any of the alternative sized tyres without additionally changing your wheels.  Furthermore, if you reduce the diameter of your wheels, you may find that they do not fit over the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the year and trim lever of your Mercedes ML-350.  As a rule of thumb, check the alternative trim / spec versions of your particular car to see what the other OEM wheels and tyre combinations are but this won't guarantee that they'll clear your brake discs / calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T09:58:16.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2016-02-29T10:10:28.653" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being as they are a Volkswagen dealer, they should be using oil that conforms to 504.00 or more likely 507.00 standard oil.  The details of this are discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/assets/common/content/owners/Longlife_servicing.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; official Volkswagen document.  Furthermore, your vehicles owners handbook is very clear about the regularity with which the oil should be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have a collection of Volkswagens which include two TDI engined cars; a 1.9 PD and a 1.6 Bluemotion.  Both of which have oil changes around to 10,000 mile mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T10:10:28.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26668" CreationDate="2016-02-29T10:40:53.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not have to replace the ring gear on the flywheel. However though, if this continues after you replace your starter and you are absolutely sure that the starter is not the problem, you may need to replace the flywheel or, shim the flywheel. When resurfacing a flywheel you need to have a shim which is a piece of metal that lies between the crankshaft mounting point and the flywheel that compensates for lost space due to machining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also shims for starter motors as well. I would replace your starter motor first. You would need to pull the whole transmission and flywheel just to get the ring gear off. I think it should be fine. As long as you haven't destroyed the ring gear with excessive grinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T10:40:53.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26630" CreationDate="2016-02-29T11:24:29.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific repair you describe; repairing a radiator fan without the correct fixings, can be done in a number of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most creative ways I've ever encountered was on La Carrera Caledonia Rally of 2006 (in which I competed as navigator in &lt;a href=&quot;http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/album/album.pl?photo=events/lcc2006/PICT0129.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; glorious Lancia Flavia Coupe) one on the competitors encountered a problem out of the road that the radiator fan coupling had failed on his rear engined competition car and he had only limited tools available.  He hunted around the car and managed to find a welding rod.  He then used jump leads in liue of welding gear and managed to get a tack weld which actually held for the remainder of the event.  He did not win the rally but did win a prize at the evening dinner for most ingenious repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are any number of ways to effect a repair when you don't have the correct fixing.  These typically include zip ties, rivets, duck tape, bits of wire, the &quot;wrong&quot; nuts and bolts packed with lots of washers.  It very much depends on the situation you find yourself in and what you have to hand.  Some repairs will be more appropriate (i.e. last longer) than others.  In a fully equipped workshop, I'd have probably opted for something similar to what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:24:29.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26630" CreationDate="2016-02-29T11:30:32.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left handed nuts are typically cut that way so the spinning of the motor/engine will not loosen the nut over time. A right handed nut will likely loosen over time from the torque of the motor starting.  If you use a castle nut with a cotter pin, it should stop the nut from removing itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:30:32.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26665" CreationDate="2016-02-29T12:15:19.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the smell you encountered is just some residual fluid which was spilled during the fluid change. Considering you migrated from (assuming) standard transmission fluid to synthetic, extra steps would have been involved in getting it swapped over. With that in mind, it could very easily have gotten on an exhaust pipe somewhere and was burnt off during your spirited driving event. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your transmission should be able to handle what you are throwing at it. There are situations which will be bad for your transmission, but what you described does not seem like one of them. Two things to look for in your transmission which are tell tale signs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burnt transmission fluid: If there's a transmission dipstick available, pull it out and take a whiff. If the fluid smells like it's burnt, it needs to be changed. If not changed soon enough, there will be other issues to ensue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipping transmission: If the transmission is shifting fine without slippage, there should be no worries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are truly worried about the smell, take the car back to where it was serviced and have them make sure there's no leaks. If they needed to drop the pan in the process (considering the swap from normal to synthetic, this could very well be the case), they are responsible for the sealing of the pan. Meaning, they'd have to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T12:15:19.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T12:21:09.907" Score="5" ViewCount="8212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone know where to start a repair on a 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan that will not shift out of park?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   The “Malfunction Indicator Light” is currently on &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkHQC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkHQC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;•   The “Electronic Stability Control (ESC) light” comes on at the same time as the “Malfunction Indicator Light”. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eoulM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eoulM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;•   When both lights are on, the van will not shift out of park.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15413" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T22:44:31.823" Title="2014 Dodge Grand Caravan will not shift out of park" Tags="|dodge|shifting|caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T14:39:33.083" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy (Automatic &amp;amp; 4x4)and I have been working on it on and off for about a year and a half, i have fixed many things with it but there are couple things that I have not been to identify and fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Engine Knock:&#xA;When the car is first over I can hear a engine knock or more accuratley a &quot;chugging&quot; sound that causes a lot of vibration in the car. The Feeling is felt worse in drive and lesser in the reverse and Park gears. The sound goes away one the car is out of idle as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced all the spark plugs, plug wires, distributer cap. As well as the head and intake gaskets and the fuel injection system. What do you think is causing this? (I will reply if more information is needed) (I have also checked the motor oil levels already)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second issue:&#xA;When first accelerating from stop i hear a shallow grinding type sound coming from my car (that's the best way to describe it), but it quickly goes away once the car gets up to speed around 40 - 50 mph. What do you think this could be? I have not much transmission work on the vehicle so could it be a transmission issue? (yes I have checked the fluid levels as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long post, but thank you for your consideration!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15415" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T16:04:45.633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T16:04:45.633" Title="Possible engine knock in 1995 GMC Jimmy" Tags="|noise|gmc|knock|jimmy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T15:24:25.917" Score="8" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21255/excessive-vibrations-in-drive-when-holding-down-the-brakes&quot;&gt;trying to determine the source of vibrations at idle&lt;/a&gt; in my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L one thing I've found mentioned by many people is a potentially worn out / failing torque converter.  However, when researching the matter in the relevant Mazda workshop manual and in the ATSG manual for this specific transmission, neither one of them mention vibrations as a symptom of torque converter problems.  However, they both mention excessive noise from the transmission while idling as a potential symptom of such problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest conditions mentioned in the ATSG manual are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise severe under acceleration OR deceleration, OK in park, neutral or steady speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise in Park or Neutral - does not stop in Drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's similar in the WSM, but vibrations aren't mentioned anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are vibrations, without noise a potential symptom of torque converter problems and of course, if so why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T21:30:45.307" Title="What is the Connection Between Failing Torque Converters and Vibration?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|vibration|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26651" CreationDate="2016-02-29T15:28:51.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest way to test if you're not SURE of what you're doing (and to avoid other issues like bad lead connections) is to use a clamp meter. These are capable of measuring AC and DC voltage and amperage by simply clamping the wire. You don't have to disconnect anything for this to work. Not to mention that measuring this ONE wire coming right off of the battery probably isn't going to tell you much... even if you do determine that there is a reading of several amps coming off of your battery, you still have to track that down. The clamp meter would be better suited for the needle-in-a-haystack search than your traditional probe meter anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of one such meter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200460552_200460552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200460552_200460552&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route, make sure you buy a clamp meter advertised to measure amperage on both AC AND DC. Some of them are AC only, for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After I answered this I started thinking about why some clamps can't read DC amperage and looked it up. This is somewhat anecdotal as it does not answer the question, but it might be interesting to some people. Apparently, clamp meters use electromagnetic induction to read AC amperage, but this is not possible on DC. The clamps are constructed slightly different to make this possible. See this link for a more in-depth explanation: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kew-ltd.co.jp/en/support/mame_02.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kew-ltd.co.jp/en/support/mame_02.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15417" LastEditorUserId="15417" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T16:30:59.507" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:30:59.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26682" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:24:31.000" Score="5" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought the car and in process of discussing the issue I have with the door keypad panel pulling away. The dealer promised to get a garage(close to my house) to fix it for me but I'd like to know how this can be also fixed. Just for my information so I don't get screwed over or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/119-5th-6th-gen-aesthetics-interior-wheels-tires/278618-2010-sel-driver-s-side-keypad-panel-pulling-away.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; where a person have similar issue and suggestion using glue/adhesives which sounds too easy or kind of unprofessional to me. But I'm not sure since this is a new car to me. Just using glue feels to me not enough but I have no experience with this brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this panel attached to the door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pics of the problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSTV7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSTV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The driver&amp;#39;s side keypad pulling away&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it should be&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULC6p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULC6p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7846" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:53:39.080" Title="2010 Ford Taurus keypad panel pulling away" Tags="|ford|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26681" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:44:52.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If adhesive was used by Ford in the first place, I would say that is fine.  I'm not sure what is original, so this isn't a great answer, but it felt like more than a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a trim piece repaired by a body shop and they used glue, but the OEM solution was plastic clips (that they had broken...).  The glue failed after a year, and I had to go back and make them repair it properly with a new part. The glue might have worked in the short term, but there was a reason that VW (my car) didn't use glue and opted for clips instead.  For that part, it wasn't going to last 10-15 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is, Ford has already researched and developed what should be the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; way to do this, so make sure whatever shop does the work follows their recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T16:44:52.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T16:56:14.570" Score="5" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle, a KTM Duke 200, while riding is producing varying acceleration. This is during a single ride. For about a few minutes, the acceleration is alright, then after a few minutes, the acceleration seems to drop. Once I turn off the bike at traffic, and I start again, the acceleration seems normal. After a few minutes, the problem occurs again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel is not a problem, as I'm refilling high grade fuel, which I've been using from a long time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've checked out the air filter and I clean it thoroughly. In fact, even changed it to just check if that was the issue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what might be a problem? Am I looking at anything major? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15261" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T17:41:41.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T19:51:16.777" Title="Varying acceleration while riding" Tags="|motorcycle|acceleration|ktm|duke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26231" CreationDate="2016-02-29T17:55:26.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're almost definitely describing a fuel delivery issue. However, your fuel pressure test isn't adequate. It's my OPINION that watching fuel flow over the filter housing isn't a good enough test for the same reason that taking a fuel pressure reading at idle (or even KOEO) isn't good enough to prove good fuel pressure. You must, and please forgive the overemphasis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YOU MUST TEST FUEL PRESSURE UNDER A LOAD.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you need to test fuel pressure with an actual gauge. This is annoying because the 6.0 PS has no fuel pressure sensor, but low fuel pressure CAN CAUSE WHITE SMOKE. (Especially if combined with other issues, like bad injectors.) Second annoying overemphasis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PLEASE do not drive your truck until you have verified fuel pressure&lt;/strong&gt;, with a gauge, under load. Low fuel pressure will eventually destroy your injectors. They're $250 a piece, plus core. Ask me how I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel filters - Not every one knows that there are TWO fuel filters on this truck. And those people usually miss the frame rail filter, which is the dirtier of the two. Make sure you're getting both of these filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using bio-diesel, stop it. That crap plugs filters for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the OBD scanner you purchased is one that will connect to your laptop or cell phone. Generic OBD scanners can be genuinely worthless for this kind of diagnosis. Buy a decent (american made) OBDII ELM interface with bluetooth, WiFI, or USB that can be used on your laptop or smart phone. Forscan is an incredible piece of free software that will read the Ford-specific sensor data on your powerstroke. There are some PS-specific tests that you can run as well (from the computer version of the software).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video from DieselTechRon on YouTube for testing fuel pressure, in case you haven't seen it already:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW2mqLL-3YY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW2mqLL-3YY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (Because I was asked by 'anonymous'):&#xA;There SHOULD be fuel pressure just by turning on the key. If the vehicle runs for a minute, there should be fuel pressure there as well. If you have good fuel pressure at idle and it dies before you even have a chance to put a load on it (ie. drive up some hills), then fuel pressure is &lt;strong&gt;probably&lt;/strong&gt; not your problem. However, if you have poor fuel pressure out of the gate (ie. running ~30psi at idle), it's a safe bet that's causing the issue. Start looking at filters, fuel pump, kinked/bent fuel lines, or even wiring issues. One reason it might run for a minute is because the fuel system will pressurize at KOEO, and then start to deplete the pressure as soon as the engine runs. If fuel pressure is good, then it's back to the HPOP system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was writing the edit, I remembered a video I saw a while back that has a great functional explanation of how the fuel injectors work and why low fuel pressure is bad for them. There's a lot of other good information about your PS in there if you have time to watch:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbKZ50x4_go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbKZ50x4_go&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15417" LastEditorUserId="15417" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T20:49:48.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:49:48.707" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26693" CreationDate="2016-02-29T18:38:42.390" Score="1" ViewCount="16642" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having Dodge Charger 2009 - I had the issues lately with a stock fuel pump which stopped working. I've bought a new one, after 5 months, fuel pump start cranking with a strange noise, and sometimes my engine just turns off, like there is an insufficient fuel pumping into the engine - absolutely same engine stalling when you are running out of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealers have no explanations nor private mechanics, so I thought to buy a new Fuel pump but a good one and I was wondering if there is a difference between a High Performance One and a Stock Fuel pump ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am comparing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Arrington High Performance Fuel Pump&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AY8VZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AY8VZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stock Fuel Pump 6.1L&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpGCZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpGCZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any big difference ? Price difference is about twice more for a Arrington (500$)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12366" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T05:59:59.463" Title="Any huge difference between high performance and stock fuel pump?" Tags="|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26683" CreationDate="2016-02-29T18:48:15.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is a fuel-injected bike, this sounds like an air-fuel mixture problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air-fuel mixture problems arise when the mixture is either too lean or too rich. If bad enough, both can result in poor acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;lean&lt;/em&gt; mixtures, there is too much air and/or too little fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical causes for this include an intake leak which is allowing unmetered air, malfunctioning MAF/MAP/lambda sensor and partially-clogged injector.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;rich&lt;/em&gt; mixtures, there is too little air and/or too much fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stuck-open injector, over-pressurized fuel line, under-reading MAF/lambda sensor could cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temporary &quot;restart&quot; fix makes me suspect a bad lambda sensor; it's quite common for vehicles to run in open-loop mode for a couple of minutes. Assuming this is a narrowband sensor, you could confirm that it is working as it should using the test outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/15388/675&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T18:48:15.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14878" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:40:13.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The batteries on the cars will not have good cranking power especially if it is cold outside. My car does that too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually jump it and it starts and runs fine, what I suggest you to do is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Throw a battery tender on it as long as it is parked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the battery load tested, most automotive shops do it for free, if not you can buy one at the HFT for about 20 bucks and have it for you for ever. As said by @GettingNifty car batteries usually last about 3 to 6 years, depending on the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your car doesn't have any shorts or draw of current when not in use. to do this use an ammeter in series to the battery positive, the draw should not be more, I think not more than a couple amps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T22:01:43.850" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:01:43.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16221" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:43:28.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are getting smoke from the exhaust make sure that the positive crank case ventilation valve is not clogged, or short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCV valve is highly essential for the crank case to have ventilation to send the exhaust gases in the crank case out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my friends elantra with a same problem and after the replacement of the pcv valve the smoke is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T19:43:28.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:47:13.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, the accepted answer is not completely true. You do not need a dual cam setup to run vtec.  I believe your civic has a stock d series engine which is a single cam most, likely a d16 (if you have a d15 it is more complicated).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is with SOHC there is a common camshaft for both intake and exhaust valves. where as with DOHC there are separate cams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VTEC is a variable valve timing system which is engaged at higher RMPs so you get better performance when you need it and don't burn extra gas and risk wear on your engine riding around at lower RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Civics are probably the most commonly modified hondas this question has been asked a million times, luckily that means there is a good amount of information on it.  The first google search I found returned this.  but there are many more some write ups even have detailed step by step picture tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/non-vtec-d16y7-convert-vtec-2531918/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/non-vtec-d16y7-convert-vtec-2531918/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum you will need a d series vtec head, a new ecu, and the wiring harness. &lt;em&gt;(and probably need to replace a few more things like gaskets while doing the swap)&lt;/em&gt; also a new timing belt and water pump i believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is a good idea to upgrade many of the parts in your engine to help cope with the higher RPMs theoretically that isn't necessary, but you run a higher risk, especially if you have alot of miles on your car and like to engage vtec alot (kicks in around 5000rpms depending on the system)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic friend is probably just saying cool things you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do.  I believe the civics from that year have the same suspension and braking setups with or without vtec, although there are tons of aftermarket options if you are ambitious and have deep pockets.  Similarly with the DOHC vtec, he was probably saying you should swap a B series motor into the car which is a very popular swap done to civics look (B16, b18, b20, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="2583" LastEditDate="2017-06-11T13:34:24.990" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T13:34:24.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:48:36.903" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Astra H 1.9 150ps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During driving when I press the gas pedal to increase the speed of vehicle it stops in the middle of the road, my auto shuts down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is present just when I push the gas pedal to increase speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem first appeared in high gears(3,4) and faster speeds (like 70-90 mph), now it is happening in the lower gears 2,3 and 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15420" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T20:00:37.923" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:00:37.923" Title="Vaxhall Astra H 1.9 150PS it stops in the middle of the road by pressing the gas pedal" Tags="|troubleshooting|astra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26683" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:51:16.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be something with the ignition system. Check the spark-plugs. This tends to happen if there is dirt or some type of gunk on a spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be worth checking the throttle position sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel system may require cleaning with some Seafoam or some liquid cleaner that works well with cleaning fuel systems.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T19:51:16.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16492" CreationDate="2016-02-29T19:52:20.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The float in the gas tank might be getting stuck and so that could be the reason that the fuel gauge stays high and drops all of a sudden. if possible pull out the fuel pump  wiggle the float a few times spray some pb blaster or WD40 or something wiggle it again in its natural direction of operation and let it dry and install it back and see if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There might be a foreign material in your tank which is making the last two gallons to get filled in short bursts, as long as the level in the tank is low the foreign floating material is floating low and as soon as the level rises I think the stuff is coming up to the surface and making the gas to be pushed back. This is because as you fill the gas the air in the tank finds its way back through the gas filler. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T20:22:38.693" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:22:38.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26685" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:18:59.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely agree with Zaid's answer. The stock fuel pumps should work just fine to start and run your car, because all other dodge chargers are still running on the road with the stock fuel pumps. &#xA;Check these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fuel pressure on the top of the engine ( fuel rail), usually the fuel rail will have a plug to connect your pressure sensor ( which you can get it at any auto store) the pressure should read atleast 40 psi.  if you have more than 40 psi then the fuel pump is perfectly allright, if not the pump could be bad or the filter has debris or the fuel line could be clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make sure your fuel injectors are good, they are really expensive could be any where from 100 to 300 bucks a piece. so this would be your last step, but still one bad injector would not make the car stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;mass air flow sensor which tells the how much fuel to be injected. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the performance fuel pumps does make a difference when compared to the stock ones, but to fix your problem check the above.&#xA;Putting a performance fuel pump might need extra air to be induced as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:18:59.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26677" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:22:47.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;make sure that the cable that goes to the tranny is not jumped out of its slot.&#xA;If the gear stick has no resistance and slides like butter then it is pretty evident that the cable might be jumped off of its slot. I had this happen on an old car, but this is newer one they might not be using a cable at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:22:47.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26632" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:29:27.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is not a newer car and doesnt have a CVT, I would recommend doing an oil change on the tranny and add a new filter throw some lucal tranny fluid in it, then take it for a drive a long one about atleast half an hour, and do city driving for about 15 inutes, this might fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that did not take care of that then you might have some sticky solenoids or some other problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:29:27.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26610" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:32:13.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can try lubing the brake pedal joint as a quick tip and if not follow HandyHowie's solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:32:13.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26606" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:36:38.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have oil in your coolant, the only option for the oil to go would be is through the exhaust and out, make sure the pcv valve is not bad not stuck closed not shorted out, the oil in the exhaust might not be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:36:38.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26593" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:42:00.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ebay is the best place to look for these little parts try different combination of names,try Amazon look up google shopping,if it is an old car, places like AAA salvage yard, u pull r parts and some used parts stores in the city, dealership is last, they charge a lot even for a screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:42:00.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26604" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:48:55.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not completely sure of the exhaust pressure on that bike check you owners manual, &#xA;The normal idling rpm for the bike would be around 900 to 1100. this can be adjusted by adjusting the idle fuel control knob. do this only after the bike is warm enough.&#xA;Regarding the turbo, you can definitely install a turbo on it. I would personally never put a turbo on such engines, there are plenty of chances that you could keep blowing the head gasket, hurt the intake, hurt the carbs. &#xA;Keep in mind that you will have to change a lot of parts like the carbs vacuum lines and a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="15419" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T13:27:10.247" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T13:27:10.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26553" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:55:48.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like this is a faulty MAF sensor, a misfire or a dead cylinder due to poor compression&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T22:02:37.417" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:02:37.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26339" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:00:48.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understood the valve cover gaskets might be leaking, they go bad fro every 120- 170k on most cars, but the main seal(seal btw engine and the tranny) to leak there are 0.01% chances, so I dont think the main seal is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T21:00:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26275" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:07:30.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These have dynamic adaptive control or some sort ( not sure of the terminology) but there is a module or sensor connected to the tie rod near one of the front tire most probably on the left tire. It looks like a little box fixed to some immovable part and has a handle attached to it which moves based on the tie rod and sends a signal back to the module in the headlight. &#xA;Make sure the module at the tie rod is not cooked, has good input voltage and output voltage, if they are cheap replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T21:07:30.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:08:55.187" Score="1" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 03 Pontiac Grand Am. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 9 months ago I had to put in a new motor, I've also put in a new starter and battery. For the last 5 months my car has not been able to go over 50 mph without my rpm going high...it won't shift into 3rd gear either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that when in stopped the rpm is low and it stutters like it's going to die but doesn't. When I put the car in park the engine speed rises to really high levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it won't start...The lights come on, but no noises....I've talked to 3 mechanics and had it tested and still can't figure out what's wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15422" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T22:00:24.140" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:48:07.463" Title="03 Pontiac Grand Am will not start. Transmission problems?" Tags="|engine|starting|automatic-transmission|pontiac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26703" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:44:19.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the 2.2 Litre engine. Or the 3.4L?&#xA;The transmissions they used on those aren't typically known for having a lot of problems. Ofcourse there is always going to be one bad seed, but for the most part they are okay. Are you going to diagnostic shops, or Transmission shops? Your average technician doesn't really know how to diagnose a transmission issue. I've been doing diagnostics for 10 years, and still really don't know as much the transmission shop guys do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This however sounds like, you're having an issue with one the shifting solenoids inside the transmission. They're basically little actuators that block and allow flow of transmission fluid through channels that enable the gears to shift or move. If these channels, the oil pan, or actuators are compromised it will inhibit the transmission's ability to shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately GM has limited transmission support for OBD. You could have the dealership use their in house scan tool to run diagnostics on it. If that fails, you may need to replace the transmission. It's essentially idiopathic at that point unless you remove the transmission and disassemble it to find the reason it malfunctioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T21:44:19.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26708" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:54:30.683" Score="11" ViewCount="34492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering, can I use something like Fairy washing up liquid or dish soap (which is added to hot water in a sink or basin to wash plates, dishes and cutlery etc) in warm water to wash my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use two buckets and two sponges and then apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/shampoo-polish-wax/turtle-wax-color-magic-plus-dark-blue-500ml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wax&lt;/a&gt; afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will this ruin my paintwork if I wax it afterwards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2021-06-22T10:46:29.040" LastActivityDate="2021-06-22T20:53:03.550" Title="Can I use washing up liquid to wash my car?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26705" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:02:25.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with using dish soap on your car is that it tends to wash away any wax that might be on the surface.  Wax not only makes the car shine - it also protects the paint to a degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will it hurt anything?  Not that I'm aware of, but if you wax your car or use any other protectants, it would be best to stick to an actual &quot;car wash&quot; liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:02:25.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26419" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:05:26.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No heat in the cabin and an overheating engine after servicing something in the cooling system... My bet is air trapped in the cooling system as it would account for both of the symptoms and matches the timeline of when the issue started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trapped air would also explain the overheating without coolant loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If needed I could elaborate on what to do to get the air out, but there's already a plethora of information on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:05:26.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26705" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:07:51.197" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using dish washing liquid on your auto paint will strip off any of the good &amp;quot;stuff&amp;quot; which is on there, such as waxes and or oils. This leaves it unprotected. If you use stuff specifically for washing your car, you'll leave the wax in place and it will last much longer between applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inmygarage.com/car-care-myth-dish-soap-makes-a-great-car-wash/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; says it pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the detergents in dish soap do a great job cleaning the car ... they also remove much more than just the dirt from the surface. The detergents break down the wax, stripping it away and leaving your paint dull and unprotected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good car wash soap will not contain any detergents and will be rich in lubricants (which safely lubricate the dirt, allowing it to glide from the vehicles paint). A “feel test” you can use to test your car wash is to put a small amount of it between your finger and thumb and rub it back and forth. You will notice that better car washes will be much more slippery. Lesser ones may contain detergents to “help” clean the car (since the lubricants aren’t there), so make sure you check that before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To answer your real question, though, it won't ruin your paint work, but will leave it dull and lifeless. You will have to rewax &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; if you expect it to look good and stay protected. I'm not sure why you'd want to do this when you can just use car wash instead and not have to worry about the wax every time you wash your vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T13:06:29.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26685" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:14:41.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Performance pumps typically have the ability to &lt;em&gt;flow&lt;/em&gt; more fuel while maintaining the same &lt;em&gt;pressure&lt;/em&gt; since the fuel regulator is what determines this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; using a performance fuel pump unless the extra fuel is needed for changes made to increase power. Otherwise the fuel flows around the system faster than it normally would, running into restrictions, picking up heat along the way. Many older performance vehicles (a Mazda RX7 for example) used fuel pump resistors to reduce the fuel flow for light driving just for this reason. Modern vehicles accomplish this by adjusting the pumps duty cycle (PWM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:14:41.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26685" CreationDate="2016-02-29T22:37:00.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket fuel pumps generally can flow more or tolerate higher pressures depending upon the design of the pump and the flaws in the pump it is replacing. They're intended for aftermarket applications which require higher fuel pressures and flows than stock. The only way to tell how it differs from the stock unit is to find the specs of the stock unit and compare them to the specs for the aftermarket unit. The aftermarket one might flow more or it might flow the same but offer higher pressures or maybe both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pumps do wear out, but I would troubleshoot electrical issues first before I went out and spent 500+ on an aftermarket one. It would feel pretty dumb to replace the pump and then find out that there was a shorted wire or something causing the pump to shut off. Also, make sure your fuel filter and lines are in good shape. It would suck to replace your pump and then have it die because your fuel filter is clogged and it tries to push through the blockage by pushing 200 psi of fuel pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T22:37:00.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24002" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:13:40.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valve float is bad because the valve gets a running start at the valve seat instead of being gently lowered on to the valve seat by the cam lobe. It is this sudden crashing into the valve seat that stresses the valve and leads to damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T23:13:40.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26703" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:18:27.757" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first set of problems you describe sound very much like a disconnected vacuum pipe between the engine and the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T23:18:27.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2016-02-29T23:57:35.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The error code mentioned that heater part of the O2 sensor is bad. So it is easy to just check it with ohm meter before changing it. You should read below 20 Ohms on this element. Two of the wires are for element and another two for sensor. Do not connect Ohmmeter to the sensor because you may damage it depending to your Ohmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15425" LastEditorUserId="1864" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T13:16:37.773" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T13:16:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5847" CreationDate="2016-03-01T00:39:20.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this same problem 1 day ago and realized that the original key which I just found no longer works after having a replacement key made by a locksmith. It unlocks the door by placing it in the keyhole but will start the car but them it shuts down. Great safety mechanism if someone else had of found the key and tried to take the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just remembered that the locksmith told me the key would not work if found. This just saved me hundreds of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15426" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T00:39:20.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26339" CreationDate="2016-03-01T00:59:27.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely a valve cover gasket that is causing this. That's a relatively small engine and should be easy to diagnose if you remove the upper intake cover or assembly. Use some &quot;Purple Power&quot; or engine degreaser of your choice and wait for it to goto work and observe the engine running. You should be able to see what is leaking at that point. I've heard people say a power washer works, but I'm not partial to that. If you do that, be cautious of electrical and plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if it was your rear main seal, you'd most likely only notice oil on the bottom of the bellhousing and engine. Additionally you could have a leak at your oil sending unit. It's usually located on the side of the cylinder block. They can sometimes leak. They screw in, so when the thread sealant stops working it will leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T00:59:27.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T01:40:14.560" Score="0" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jeep the other night had slowed to a stop, the check gauges light came on and my steering wheel took a ton of effort to turn. My lights and my radio were still on. I asked a friend to look at it, but he didn't see anything wrong with it. This was actually the 2nd time it's happened. The other time it was summer outside, and we thought we had fixed it. Obviously not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15428" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T02:23:06.793" Title="1995 jeep grand cherokee stopped working" Tags="|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21047" CreationDate="2016-03-01T02:18:31.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;quick tip if any one is doing their timing chain or belt. make sure you have a picture showing the tdc( top dead center), double check all the marks match exactly no error is tolerated here, the crank, exhaust cams, intake cams etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the tip is first throw the belt on the crank, then align the belt on the cam which ever is far away from the tensioner, then on the cam closer to the tensioner, mae sure you dont have any slack on the belt, have all the slack towards the tensioner this way you will reduce the chance of the belt jumping tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after assembling the belt make sure there is no slack,rotate the crank it should rotate with out too much resitance and the belt should not be jumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T02:18:31.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26716" CreationDate="2016-03-01T02:23:06.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;did you look at the serpentine belt, make sure it is tight enough and check the tensioner on the belt. try and pull the serpentine belt, the belt should be stiff, and if you could pull it without effort, replace the tensioner on the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the belt might be slipping on the accessories like power steering, alternator, compressor etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this should probably be in the comments section.&#xA;Sorry for writing as an answer, do not have enough reputation to comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T02:23:06.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24478" CreationDate="2016-03-01T03:19:00.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks evident that the carb has clogged and the engine might not be warm enough to floor the gas. engine dies as soon as you let go off the throttle, if you have the throttle on the gas flows through the main jet and if you close the throttle the fuel has to go through the some other hole( forgot the name of the jet), that might be clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice is to clean the card, it would do wonders on bikes, over the years no matter what the carbs would clog up due to time and foreign materials entering the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T03:19:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="833" CreationDate="2016-03-01T04:56:02.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cranking the engine with the starter for a bit does your exhaust smell like gas? No? Carbs are gummed up or your vacuum actuated petcock isn't working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you smell gas check for spark at your spark plugs. They make testers you can hold over the wire to see if it's sparking or you can pull a spark plug and hold the tip against the engine case with the plug wire attached. Crank the engine and you should see a fat blue spark. If not check the points/ignition coils, CDI or stator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you pull a spark plug after cranking and see that it's wet with gas that's another indication that it's not firing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to hold the only the spark plug boot and don't touch the spark plug. Maintain constant contact with the engine case or you might damage a good working ignition system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have spark. Check your points/ignition coils, CDI or stator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T21:00:57.073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T21:00:57.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11366" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:03:14.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also keep the headers and add universal slip on mufflers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T05:03:14.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26553" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:09:17.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is the 5E engine, they don't have a MAF. they use a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP). SOME of them actually came with a 7A engine which did use a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). You can do a little research on it, but you'll find that Wikipedia won't tell you that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaking is most likely motor mounts. The rubber in Toyota mounts is known to go bad very quickly (Nothing against Toyota). The easiest test to determine this is to put the car in drive and hold the brake. Lightly tap the gas. The engine should rotate toward the firewall. If it actually makes contact with the firewall or moves more than two inches, the mounts are bad. You also didn't state if it was an automatic or manual. From personal experience, they tend to shake A LOT at idle when the mounts are bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your distributor is off by a little it can cause a misfire. You can rotate the distributor a little bit to adjust timing. This will cause shaking as well. You need to take some time test the compression, timing, and make sure you have no vacuum leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear loud ticking and knocking, you may have a piston ring or piston rod issue. Ticking only, would insinuate you have an upper end issue. A bent valve or collapsed/ clogged lifter would create that noise. You also need to use a feeler gauge to test clearances on that motor. They have hydraulic lifters, so you need to make sure they are within specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly! Believe it or not on those cars bad springs or shocks can cause the car to shake quite a bit. I'm not sure of why this happens, but I'm a Toyota enthusiast and many of my friends agree. When the struts start to decay it can cause that extremely annoying shaking at stop lights. My 91' Corolla started shaking at idle. My buddy told me to check out the struts since my motor mounts looked good. He was spot on, my struts were well overdue for change. He simply told me it was just an old Toyota problem. &quot;The way they design the chassis&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T05:09:17.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26731" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:36:23.767" Score="1" ViewCount="19020" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 XH Ford GLI LONREACH UTE with a 4.0 Tickford motor 5 sp man, had a oil leak (oil leak fixed! and I was quite proud of myself) from the rocker cover gasket, resulting in enough oil that would coat my alternator to the point of where she was getting to unpredictable to drive and lights/power would die at 80 klms in traffic.&#xA;Anyway my mate checked the battery and it was fine after a charge. He also sprayed something onto the alternator (I didn't see what he used) and whatever it was, it cleaned the alternator up enough to drive around again. &#xA;I'm hesitant to take it on a long drive somewhere, get stuck, and find out it's no better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much net research I decided to buy from Bursons auto, a circuit board cleaner that has no chlorides in it to further degrade the thing. I sprayed a fair amount into and on the alternator and could instantly see black oily crap drip from the bottom of it, apparently the best part is that any of this cleaner left on or in places, simply evaporates away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;Did I do the right thing, or did I just completely stuff my alternator????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to anyone that responds and sorry it's so long, but I wanted all to have as much info as I could provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Ryne&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15430" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T14:04:38.183" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T14:04:38.183" Title="OIL ON MY ALTERNATOR" Tags="|engine|electrical|ford|oil|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:37:38.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you check your spark? If you got absolutely nothing with starting fluid your spark plugs probably might not be firing. Pull a spark plug and hold the tip against the engine case with the plug wire attached. Crank the engine and you should see a fat blue spark. If not check the points/ignition coils, CDI or stator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to hold the only the spark plug boot and don't touch the spark plug. Maintain constant contact with the engine case or you might damage a good working ignition system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T05:37:38.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23136" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:48:24.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loss of high end performance can be due to several issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old gas. Old gas doesn't burn as quickly. My bike is always sluggish running through the gas that's been sitting in the tank over the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not enough gas. Check the filter on your petcock. It might be clogged with rust and only letting through enough gas for lower speeds. Disconnect one of the hoses from the carbs, open the petcock and let the gas run into an appropriate container. You should get a good stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the petcock tests ok, maybe your carbs need to be cleaned.  The float pivots or float valve might be sticky with varnish so it can't react quickly or move freely enough to keep the bowls filled during high demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of tune. How long has it been since you performed a tune-up? Get a Haynes manual and do a basic tune-up. Adjust your valves, points/ignition timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weak or failing ignition. @ducatikiller covered most of this but I'll add that your points could be arcing at high RPM due to a bad condenser.  Take the points cover off and rev the engine and see if you can see arcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastEditorUserId="15260" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T22:06:34.467" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:06:34.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2016-03-01T06:03:33.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not even close to being a mechanic but after doing web research for myself, I found out most if not all brake cleaners have chlorides in them, therefore internally can cause rust and then, well you know the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to go to Bursons Auto and ask for a circuit board spray. $22 a can. I sprayed my alternator this afternoon all over and in it and watched the black oily crap drip from the underneath. Apparently, any spray remaining anywhere will evaporate away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ill keep you posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to piss off any mechanics out they're either. I'm not a mechanic and am definitely learning the basics up so only try my options at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15430" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T15:38:18.353" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:38:18.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26601" CreationDate="2016-03-01T07:40:50.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's a Harley WLD from 1941 or '42. It is clearly their 740 cc engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15431" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T07:40:50.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26666" CreationDate="2016-03-01T09:22:01.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So first of all a little theory (you might know this, but if someone else doesn't it can be good to have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with a breakdown of the numbers: &#xA;&lt;code&gt;265/40R21 y 105&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;265 is the width in mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 the height of the tyre, in precentage of the width (so 40% of 265mm = 106mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R21 (or /21 would also be common) is the tyre inner diameter in inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;y should be a speed rating (not important for this question)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 I !Think! that this is a load index (also not important now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first of all, just as Steve says, none of the tiers you have suggested will fit on the rims you have today (16&quot; or 18&quot; vs 21&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, for the tire to fit, it can't be to wide or it will rub against the inside of the wheel wells or inner fenders. (Width also need to somewhat match the width of the rims)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now by Swedish law you have to have a tire that doesn't differ more than 5% from the original circumference. So let's do the math: c_org = 2*106 + 21*2,54*10 * pi = 2342mm, now c_16 = 2*185 + 16+2,54*10 = 2439mm and c_18 = 2435mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both assuming that c_org is the original size, the c_16 and c_18 differs with about 4%. So in legal terms, at least in Sweden (you'll have to check your counties rules) that would be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Remember that a 4% increase of wheel size will reduce the shown speed at your speedo with 4%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Personal note:&lt;/em&gt; of course you should have a high profile tire on a SUV!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T09:22:01.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26725" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:58:03.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cleaner should not have caused an issue for your alternator whatsoever. The insides are clear coated for a long life. I would not have had any issue cleaning the outside of the alternator as was seemed to be done. As @HandyHowie said, you'd only need to worry about the brushes and slip rings, but &lt;em&gt;I think that might not have been your real issue&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have as much oil on the alternator as you are suggesting, I'd bet your serpentine belt is coated to some degree, which is not allowing the alternator to charge at capacity. If there is any signs of oil on the belt, change it out. While you're at it, clean all of the pulleys on the engine (whether it contacts to the ribs or the back of the belt) with carb or brake cleaner (something which will cut the oil/grease/grime). This will ensure your alternator is functioning up to par and ensure you have enough grip on the belt for the rest of your accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T12:58:03.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26739" CreationDate="2016-03-01T13:26:36.947" Score="5" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little under a year ago, I purchased a used 2005 Honda Odyssey. The car only came with one key, and I have constant concerns about losing that key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: &lt;strong&gt;Given the fact that I have a working key, is there anything that I can do to now to make my life easier in the event of losing it?&lt;/strong&gt;  I realize that I would need to purchase a new physical key somewhere, and get it programmed, but what information is necessary to get that new key? Would having the old key in hand benefit me at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T16:19:09.930" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T18:48:00.587" Title="Are there preventative measures I can take in case I lose my Odyssey key?" Tags="|honda|key|odyssey|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26705" CreationDate="2016-03-01T13:51:10.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never do this for a regular wash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is one time when you might want to use dish soap to wash the car: when you're getting ready to do a really good waxing.  While the dish soap will remove all of the wax that you used to have on the car, it will also strip road grime, oils, bird crap and a lot of other nastiness. The surface that remains will simply beg for wax and more wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I don't do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I really want to get everything off, I use a clay bar and wash with car soap a couple of times. However, I have seen this done with a really good waxing afterwards and the car looked very pretty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T13:51:10.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26735" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:03:00.610" Score="3" ViewCount="6907" Body="&lt;p&gt;With motorcycles, what are the parts that most frequently get damaged and therefore have to be exchanged most frequently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this question because I am looking to buy a motorcycle that I would like to maintain and repair myself. One factor for deciding for a specific model will be the availability of spare parts. Therefore it would be good to know which spare parts will be needed most frequently so that I can then do some research on the availabilty of these parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I am going for an older motorcycle, most probably a Japanese one (e.g. Honda CB series from the 1970s or 1980s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15147" LastEditorUserId="15147" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T15:11:22.747" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T19:18:15.120" Title="Motorcycle parts that need to be replaced most frequently" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26734" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:49:16.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @JPhi1618 says &quot;Handlebars, levers, footpegs, and the exhaust are the most commonly damaged parts for a new rider when they lay the bike down&quot;, additionally anything made of plastic is also likely to break in such an event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you mean things that wear out and you can maintain yourself then all bikes will share the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filters - Oil, Air and Fuel: replace as per service intervals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil / Coolant / Fluids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Fluid: Check and Flush every 2-3 yrs (additionally your bike may have hydraulic clutch so also flush that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain Drive: if fitted, check weekly and lubricate and replace as required - this includes front and rear sprockets and chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt Drive: if fitted inspect and replace as required - this is normally quite fiddly and may be better to get a shop to do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaft Drive: maintain as per service manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres: inspect before each ride, look for scores, cuts, cracks, foreign objects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark Plugs: inspect as part of routine maintenance during filter changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a Haynes manual or similar (they exist for most bikes).  Older, un-faired bikes tend to be easier to maintain than more modern fully faired ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T14:49:16.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26737" CreationDate="2016-03-01T15:31:58.173" Score="4" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 VW Dasher. Most of the electric systems perform noticeably weakly, e.g. the A/C fan, interior lamp, dash panel backlighting, windshield wipers, and headlamps. These symptoms have been present for as long as I've owned the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured about &lt;strong&gt;8.5V&lt;/strong&gt; on the headlamps with a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since multiple systems are affected, I'm wondering if it's the entire electrical system, or just some circuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is good, and I have observed the same symptoms with previous batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some things I can do to investigate the root cause further, and what are some common causes of undervolt conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T16:02:10.163" Title="How to diagnose undervolt in electrical system" Tags="|headlight|wiring|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26736" CreationDate="2016-03-01T16:02:10.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things you can look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete paths&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electricity requires a complete path from positive to negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a car with that kind of age, I would be checking that you don't have bad grounds or corroded connections. Especially where the ground straps connect between the body and engine block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slice and dice the problem&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing to figure out is which systems are effected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then go back to the electrical diagram for the car and see whats common to those systems. That's a likely place to find the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To help isolate the problem, remove / turn off everything you can. See if turning something off cures the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the problem seems to be in every subsystem you look at&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This sounds like either the battery is not grounded, or there is a partially bad connection from the battery positive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the current coming out of the alternator. It should be within norms for idle with everything electrical turned off. If it's not, there's a partial short somewhere, or some subsystem is broken and drawing a lot of current.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the current flow in the battery. If there's a lot of drain on the battery then it will drag the voltage low. But the amount of current required to drag it down to 8.5V would mean warm wires coming off the battery.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the voltage at the battery with the cables connected, and again with them connected. Repeat the cables connected test with the engine running, and with the engine stopped. That will tell you if the alternator is charging the battery. Big thing is what's the voltage on that battery when disconnected from the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T16:02:10.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24589" CreationDate="2016-03-01T16:19:33.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The injector seal is most likely torn. I typically see this when the seal is installed dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a new seal and reinstall it with some type of lube like Vaseline or silicone spray so the rubber doesn't stick and tear when being pushed into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil or silicone gasket maker applied after the fact isn't going to work - The o-ring should seal on its own as was designed by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T16:19:33.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26732" CreationDate="2016-03-01T16:56:33.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some information for you. It would appear from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondamallofgeorgia.com/Honda-Transponder-Keys.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this internet article&lt;/a&gt; that your 2005 Odyssey should be using a &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sidewinder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; style key. These are the keys which are cut into the sides and not like what we think of a normal key. They also do not have the fob built into them. Vehicles which use this key are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2005-2012 Odyssey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2005-2011 Element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2003-2005 Accord&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2006-2012 Civic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2007-2012 CRV, Pilots and S2000's&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these keys have to be done at the dealership, but some can be cloned (much cheaper). On the key, there'll be a letter stamped on it. Here is the key:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wA0ph.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wA0ph.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the codes and which can be cloned and which have to be programmed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V - V keys must be programmed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H - H keys must be programmed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S - S keys can be cloned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F - F keys can be cloned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T5 - T5 keys can be cloned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blank - If the key has no markings it can be cloned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the key is one which can be cloned, the parts department can do this for you. This is a lot quicker than getting it programmed into your vehicle. To get it programmed, you'll have to take it to the service department and have &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of your keys programmed. This is added time and expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, if you lose your key, things become tough. If you lose your key you can get a temporary key made which is not programmed. There is a procedure called the &amp;quot;brake code&amp;quot; which can be entered into your vehicle to allow you to start your vehicle and drive it basically once (allows you to get it to the dealership for reprogramming). Here is the procedure for that (also from the above website):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Honda is equipped to accept a procedure which will temporarily by-pass the immobilizer and allow you to start the vehicle temporarily. This will allow you to drive to Honda Mall of Georgia to get a programmed key. Of course to do even this you will still have to get a temporary key cut just to turn the ignition and proceed with the by-pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we have cut the temporary key for you, give us the VIN# for your vehicle. From there we can access Honda's database and obtain a &amp;quot;PCM brake code&amp;quot;. The PCM brake code is a 5 digit code. The procedure for entering the brake code is a series of turning your ignition to the ON position then tapping your brake or pulling your emergency brake handle up and down for a fixed count. For example, if the first digit in the brake code is a 4. Release your parking brake and turn your ignition to the ON position. Now set and release your parking brake 4 times and turn your ignition to the LOCK position. The first digit is now set. Repeat this procedure for the remaining 4 digits. After you enter the 5th digit and turn the ignition to the LOCK position, the immobilizer indicator blinks three times and then goes off. You can now start the engine with the temporary key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This procedure is only a temporary fix. When you start the engine with the temporary key, the immobilizer system indicator comes on and stays on while the engine is running. Also when you turn the ignition to the LOCK (0), the indicator does not blink five times as it normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the engine within 10 minutes...or you must repeat the procedure entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure where you get the brake code from, but would imagine your dealership can give it to you if you have the VIN, registration, and ID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T18:48:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26734" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:10:41.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're asking about parts availability. If you're looking at Honda CBs stick to the more common models that were made for long periods and you won't have trouble finding consumable parts, old spares from parted out bikes and aftermarket new parts. Also there's tons of people out there using these bikes every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More common models: CB350(twin and four) CB550(four) CB750&#xA;Less common models: CB450 CB360 CB650&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T17:10:41.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2016-03-01T17:18:21.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Carbon Monoxide is found in the coolant, it would mean that the gasket blew in such a way that a tiny amount of exhaust gas is leaking into the cooling system, thus heightening the pressure in the pipes and causing the weakest link to burst. this statement is 100% correct I had the same problem with my z20let I took out the cylinder send it for cylinder head service refit the head my problem was solved &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T17:18:21.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:05:42.103" Score="1" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;After changing tires from Dunlop RF to hanook NON-rf,  my steering wheel is loose.&#xA;At this point I'm not suspecting change of tires for change in responsiveness because even when the vehicle is in parking and I move the steer I notice it needs relatively small force to turn it (I could use a finger and with extra pressure can turn the steering wheel).  could it be a problem with power steering ?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3/02/16 .Adding more info .the front axle is non RF (hankook) and rear axle is RF (dunlop.)&#xA;The rear one's have more inside wear due to negative camber alignment for mini coopers and also due to not so often rotated tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastEditorUserId="13168" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T23:05:42.360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T00:00:27.350" Title="2010 mini cooper steering wheel loose after changing tires" Tags="|power-steering|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:06:53.233" Score="2" ViewCount="11791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all new tires. Cannot figure out why but the front tires seem to being having some issue. I've had to replace the front more than the back. Today I was shocked when I inspected the front tires to see metal threadings/pins sticking out only on the inner edge of the tire, or closest to the engine. This was true for both the front tires. Could this be an alignment issue? shocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T09:35:28.777" Title="Steel radial belt showing on front tires only?" Tags="|tires|steel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26363" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:11:34.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this video,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVn-IDi7da8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVn-IDi7da8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this my suggestion would be is to do a hydro carbon test on the car, I think you can get the kit for like 25 dollars.&#xA;Open the radiator cap (only when the car is cool as opening it with a hot radiator can spray scalding liquid all over you and anyone around you), run the car for a while, until the temp gauge rises to centre.&#xA;The radiator is the best place to look for oil.&#xA;Smell the exhaust, it smells kinda sweet if the gasket is blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="25305" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T20:58:18.340" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T20:58:18.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26743" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:19:17.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is definitely an alignment issue, and it is really dangerous to keep driving like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the vehicle is a front wheel drive, it is obvious that the front tires wear out faster than the rear, but having wear on the inner side could be due to alignment and poor tire pressure could also be an issue but might not be in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if they are new tires they should atleast last about 20k miles before the metal starts showing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have the alignment check done asap, in USA most shops do an alignment check for free or for about 10 bucks, do not use cheap Chinese tires(no offense if some one is using them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one simple fix can be done by visually inspecting the alignment from the front and back side of the car, there are vidoes on youtube how to align your car wheels, but i recommend a professional, if you have no past experience in working on cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T19:19:17.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26747" CreationDate="2016-03-01T19:57:54.080" Score="15" ViewCount="15584" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general&lt;/strong&gt;, does air recirculated in the cabin (i.e. when the re-circulate button is engaged on the dash) pass again through the cabin air filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the cabin air filter filters outside air before it enters the passenger space, but is it also used in closed re-circulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specifically&lt;/strong&gt;: I have a 2006 Honda Civic which only has 1 filter. Am I re-filtering the air as I'm running it on re-circulate mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'd like to think the air is getting continually filtered, I also don't think it's a good idea to pass cabin air &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; over all the leaves and pollen and crap the filter took out in the first place, probably makes things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filter I changed was in the glove box and it had leaves and twigs and all kinds of stuff in it, so I know it is filtering outside air.  It seems counter-intuitive to send inside air back over all the garbage in the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10810" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T10:13:51.240" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:13:51.240" Title="Does recirculated cabin air pass through the air filter?" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26746" CreationDate="2016-03-01T20:55:19.970" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cabin air filters will usually filter the air on either setting if located on the cabin side of the firewall.  But even in recirculation mode, outside air will make its way in.  Just be sure to replace it as frequently as your manual suggests.  However, filters located under the hood at the air intake will not filter recirculated air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I decided to look for confirmation and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autos.com/auto-repair/how-does-a-cabin-air-filter-work&quot;&gt;http://www.autos.com/auto-repair/how-does-a-cabin-air-filter-work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also add links to confirm that a little bit of outside air will still make its way in on recirculation mode if it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T02:16:35.693" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T02:16:35.693" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:28:23.430" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered that I had no license plate lights so I immediately went to the auto part store and picked some bulbs up. Only to find that I can only replace one side because one of the screws just spins. The screw goes into a rubber peg that is split at the end - designed to open up once the screw is all the way in (to hold peg &amp;amp; screw in place) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried pliers and we tried prying it out with flat-head screwdrivers but we've pulled down on the carpeting there that now it barely touches the trunk :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15440" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T22:18:09.470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:42:15.670" Title="2007 honda civic trunk screw &amp; peg wont come out" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26756" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:49:01.380" Score="6" ViewCount="6579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen 'the smoke test' referenced several times in answers to OP's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is a smoke test?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What kind of tool(s) do I need to do a smoke test?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper procedure to do a smoke test?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T02:36:18.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T02:36:18.773" Title="What is a smoke test and what kind of tools do I need to do it?" Tags="|tools|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:38:54.617" Score="9" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Want to weld up some titanium tubing for an older motorcycle exhaust header.  I would like the material to be titanium.  I'm considering doing this myself in order to learn.  I understand that getting to a baseline to weld titanium could become expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in understanding the following components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much amperage would be required in order to support titanium welding?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there general welder types that are more effective at accomplishing the task than others?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is welding titanium with some sort of inert gas recommended or can the surface be exposed to oxygen during the welding process?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" OwnerDisplayName="DucatiKiller" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T20:59:43.103" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T13:08:44.667" Title="What type of welder would I need in order to weld titanium?" Tags="|exhaust|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26770" CreationDate="2016-03-01T21:57:19.030" Score="10" ViewCount="6459" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an extremely old vehicle that has limited parts availability for replacement, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how would I fix a rusted gas tank in order to put it back in service in a vehicle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run into this issue a couple of times in my life and would like to hear procedures and effective methods to remediate this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed many motorcycle gas tanks that are rusted, but never on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is a coating recommended for the inside of the tank?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How would I get all of the rust out of it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used electrolysis with sodium carbonate to remove rust from smaller parts in a 65 gallon plastic container but the size of car gas tanks obviously makes this prohibitive.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AakwLO0RqPc&amp;amp;ebc=ANyPxKqWW7pel1j5aQdXc9uUAGgsMw_ynrI-eQC1_cLKY_efJAMVpoECyMllQ3A3owuiZERY3P7-vDH_yNP3vTlUSODiqmIa1A&quot;&gt;Here's the basic procedure&lt;/a&gt; I've used in the past for just parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:54:29.963" Title="Rusted gas tanks, how do you repair them?" Tags="|repair|tools|rust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:14:06.183" Score="3" ViewCount="2683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the process of rebuilding a wrecked truck. I have replaced all of the &#xA;- brake lines &#xA;- calipers&#xA;- wheel cylinders, &#xA;- pads, &#xA;- shoes,&#xA;- brake booster, &#xA;- master cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I start the engine the pedal still goes flat to the floor. I have  bypassed the anti-lock system and still goes to the floor. I have bleed the system both manually and with an vacuum system, still having this problem used  3 boosters and 3 different master cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? How can I fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15443" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T22:54:37.343" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:54:37.343" Title="The brake pedal goes to the floor after starting the engine" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T18:32:17.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21047" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:15:36.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Honda SOHC V6 engine when doing timing the mark on the crank sprocket should line up with a small arrow on the block @ 12 o'clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bank 2 cam gear should have the cylinder 1 TDC mark lining up with the indent on the backing plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bank 1 cam gear is pretty much the same as bank 2. It has an indent and a mark on the cam gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good practice to get into is rotating the crankshaft by hand after you have installed the tensioner and pulled the pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comments though it seems like your gonna need a new set of valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/quTJR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/quTJR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:15:36.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26765" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:41:26.373" Score="7" ViewCount="5980" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila has H4 combined full and dipped beam headlight bulbs which are completely useless in the dark. It is really hard to see anything on the dipped beam. They do not seem to be very bright, but the garage replaced both sides at the MOT in November for £10 in total (about $14). I don't know which brand bulbs they are, they just seem to be generic. I know they are halogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of night-time driving, so I need my headlights to be bright so I can see, but at the moment the dipped lights seem to be very dim and do not light up very far ahead, even the adjustment knob is at 0, which is at their highest position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into Xenon headlights, but as I have no headlight washers these would be illegal. I also do not want to blind other oncoming drivers, as that is incredibly dangerous and selfish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any legal upgrades that I can do to make my headlights brighter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T17:27:40.183" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T18:06:32.490" Title="Are there any (legal) ways to increase halogen headlight brightness?" Tags="|electrical|maintenance|headlight|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:54:12.423" Score="2" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had almost 9 litres over filling oil in engine which after starting the car caused too much smoke and losing power which I'd turning the engine off then I'd pull out dipstick which flown out a lot of excess oil after that I've tried to start the engine but the car wouldn't start.&#xA;What should I do and is this a big problem for me?&#xA;Thanks for any advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15444" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:32:51.740" Title="Over filling oil engine and engine stop starting" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-03-02T15:42:13.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26749" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:32:02.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A smoke test is used to find leaks in any hollow body like the exhaust system, evaporative emission system or intake manifold. The smoke test works like finding a leak in a bucket. Fill the bucket with water and see where it drips out. Similar with the smoke test you fill the hollow body with smoke and see where the smoke comes out. A bright lamp can assist you in finding the source of the smoke. Use the light and scan along the body being tested looking for smoke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UyjBl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UyjBl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smoke testing you need a smoke machine. The machine pictured is a fairly inexpensive one that is commonly used in garages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important features of any smoke machine are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their output pressure NEVER exceed 12 to 14 in o H2O. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a pressure gauge showing the output pressure in in of H2O.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a flow meter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a way to seal the system. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They make smoke!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inducing smoke into a system is the very basic test that can be run. This is a common test for intake manifolds and exhaust systems. When working with an evaporative emissions system the flow meter and pressure gauge become your friend because they are more sensitive to very very small leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test an evaporative emissions system find a place to induce the smoke. The line connected to the vent solenoid or into the filler neck are the most common. The best practice is to Tee into the vent line or purge line and leave the whole system as intact as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If going into the vent solenoid line then there is no need to command the solenoid. If Teed into a line or any where else you will need to command the vent solenoid closed with either a scan tool or by jumping power and ground to the solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now turn on the machine, adjust the flow until the ball is at the top of the flow meter and watch the flow meter. If the meter never drops then there is a large leak. Watch for large quantities of smoke. As the gas tank and all the lines fill with pressure the ball should drop down. If the ball never reaches zero then there is a medium to small leak. The lower the flow meter ball drops the smaller the leak. Look for smoke but much more closely. The leak will be very small. A spray bottle filled with soapy water is your friend. Spry down anything that looks questionable and watch for bubbles. If the ball drops to zero there is one more test to run. Seal the system and let it sit watching the pressure gauge. The gauge should not drop at all. If it does there is a very very small leak. Let the machine induce smoke into the system for a while to maximize how much smoke comes out. The smoke with such a leak may not help. Again, use the soapy water. Also a set of needle nose vise grips or hose pinch off pliers may help. Pinch off the hoses to the vent solenoid, purge solenoid or the filler neck one at a time and see if the leak goes away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some evaporative emissions systems like on select Chryslers and Toyotas is too complex to explain in a simple tutorial. Check the manufacturer service information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. inches of water or in of H2O is a very sensitive way of measuring pressure. One psi is about 27.7 inches of water. Also there is no need to use a nitrogen based system. Use a good dryer on the shop air line to your machine. The gas tank will not explode if filled with air. Everyone who says that is just trying to sell you nitrogen. The gas tank already has air in it and there was no explosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:32:02.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26850" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:34:52.077" Score="7" ViewCount="5352" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual I apologize if this has been asked and answered somewhere. I try to only ask questions if I can't find an answer or a satisfactory answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding the OBD-II port on vehicles is either connected to a dedicated gateway controller, or is directly connected to the primary CAN bus which has as a node an ECU that acts as a gateway. Diagnostic devices connected to the OBD-II can only access nodes on secondary or tertiary CAN buses by sending requests through the gateway. Thus in either case if you wanted to monitor the messages on more than one CAN bus you would HAVE to deal with a gateway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Is it possible to monitor multiple CAN buses via the OBD-II port?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15110" LastActivityDate="2023-05-09T19:28:05.867" Title="Is it possible to access multiple CAN buses through the OBD-II port?" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26759" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:44:29.930" Score="6" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have determined the general source of a brake fluid leak on my 1994 acura integra but am unsure which component has failed causing the leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tracing all of the lines in the car and examining the master cylinder i found the source of the leak to be the driver's side rear brake caliper or brake hose.  Both components are soaking wet with brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to determine which of the two is the causing this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T00:51:01.197" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:51:01.197" Title="Diagnosis of slow brake leak" Tags="|brakes|leak|acura|integra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26758" CreationDate="2016-03-02T00:50:32.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to check is to jack the wheel up (put it on a jackstand), take the wheel off, clean off the affected areas with brake cleaner, then have a second person push on the brake pedal hard to observe where the leak is coming from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fluid is up onto the brake line, I'd suggest this is actually the source of your leak. It could also be where the line attaches to the caliper. There is usually a banjo bolt which has two copper (or brass) washers on them. While not a tendency, these washers have been known to leak. The caliper itself will usually only leak around the piston area, if at all ... that is unless someone left the bleeder screw open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T00:50:32.400" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26757" CreationDate="2016-03-02T01:39:16.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every manufacturer is slightly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With CAN there can be up to 3 different buses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High speed CAN connects things like Engine computer, ABS, air bag computer, Body computer, gauge cluster. This is what is exposed to diagnostic connector under the dash, the DLC. The Body computer or gauge cluster can be used as the gateway between the other buses and the high speed CAN. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium speed CAN usually connects with the body controls and lighting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low speed CAN usually connects the entertainment systems. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are guaranteed to see the high speed CAN in the DLC. Depending on the manufacturer other buses may be exposed as well but there is no guarantee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can request information from the other buses over the high speed bus. As far as i'm aware the information from the slower buses is not broadcast over the faster bus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T01:39:16.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26767" CreationDate="2016-03-02T01:56:13.770" Score="6" ViewCount="1780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to eliminate odors inside HVAC by cooking the mold that is presumably causing them, as suggested in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/146/15334&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/146/15334&lt;/a&gt; (which got 39 upvotes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't understand what the different knobs actually do internally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One knob controls the &quot;temperature&quot;. I set that to max, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other knob controls how quickly air flows into the cabin. Should I set that to max (which heats the cabin the fastest), or should I set it to min, so that the hot air stays in the HVAC system instead of heating the cabin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If I knew how it all works internally, and where the mold likely is, I'd figure it out, but I don't)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: found this illustration on &lt;em&gt;agcoauto.com&lt;/em&gt;, which basically confirms what &lt;em&gt;sweber&lt;/em&gt; wrote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCcZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCcZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15334" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T22:17:48.890" Title="Which knob setting best cooks the mold inside HVAC?" Tags="|honda|ac|hvac|smell|crv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T02:26:35.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd post a warning here. According to Wikipedia,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alcohol has a 2-12% explosive limit, meaning if the concentration of it in the air reaches above 2% (by evaporating from the mixture and concentrating somewhere, as it's heavier than air), it can explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different from trying to set its solution on fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this method should be avoided, depending on your risk tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, isopropyl alcohol attacks some plastics and aluminum, apparently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggested approach is to try to cook the mold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26762/which-knob-setting-best-cooks-the-mold-inside-hvac&quot;&gt;Which knob setting best cooks the mold inside HVAC?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15334" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T02:52:35.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T07:15:22.887" Score="9" ViewCount="28346" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all let me say I apparently have no &lt;em&gt;exhaust leak&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time I've been asking myself how was it possible that the exhaust of my car smells so bad. It does it when in the morning, I start my car, drive out of my garage, and go to close it - and in the evening when I come back home, I drive my car into the garage and then get out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course those are just the 2 moments when I actually &lt;em&gt;get to smell&lt;/em&gt; the stuff, but I am positive that it is always so smelly (otherwise it wouldn't be the same when I start the car as well as when I come back home after a drive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot describe the smell. It is stronger than I thought the exhaust of a car would be and I guess it would be similar to burnt diesel, but I don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do live in Germany, where a percentage of bio-diesel is mandatory in all the diesels and in every gas station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could be the cause of the smell?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Am I too sensitive to the diesel, or am I right to say that the exhaust shouldn't have a strong smell?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is helpful I have a VW Golf VI (2009) 2.0 with more or less 150.000km life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7824" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:23:25.893" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T20:40:24.413" Title="My car's diesel exhaust smells really bad" Tags="|vw|exhaust|diesel|golf|smell|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26754" CreationDate="2016-03-02T09:39:21.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the adjustment is not correct, i.e. the lights are still shining too steep down though the knob is set to 0. Though you can test this on your own, shops will do this with more precision. It doesn't cost much and may be for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DucatiKiller suggests high-power bulbs in his comment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the legal side (they're for sure illegal in the UK, too), I think the bulbs will never be inspected, but you may still get into trouble. Imagine someone says the crash happened because he was dazzled by your lights...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the technical side, make sure relays and cables can handle the higher current, an the headlight can handle the increased heat from this bulbs. 65W instead of 50W may be OK, but 110W instead of 55W is quite much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are also legal brighter bulbs out there like for example Osram Night Breaker. Compared to a generic bulb, they claim to give more than twice the light, 40m wider range and 20% more white light (Now, how to measure that???)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This are of course advertisements, and the numbers are suspicious. But to my experience (and many others on the web), they indeed give brighter and more white light. If it's twice the light? Hmmm, not sure, but definitely more. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fusselblog.de/index.php/der-test-sind-die-osram-night-breaker-wi?blog=14&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a german blog showing pictures with standard and this bright bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bulbs are legal and have no technical issues because they have the same power as generic bulbs. But they also have two disadvantages: They are really expensive, and their life time is typically just about 50% of generic bulbs. The reason is, to get more and more white light out of a bulb with same power, the filament must be hotter. But hotter filament drastically decreases life time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you mentioned Xenon lights. It's not that simple to convert  normal lights to Xenon lights. You do not only need headlight washers, you will also need an &lt;em&gt;automatic&lt;/em&gt; adjustment, and the headlight must be made for Xenons. There are many illegal conversion sets out there. I guess Xenon is usually only an option if the car is available with Xenon from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T09:39:21.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26751" CreationDate="2016-03-02T09:57:30.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not use the same electrolysis technique but use the tank as both container and cathode? or would that not work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel tanks can be welded, as long as proper precautions are taken - fill it to the brim with water beforehand to purge it of all remaining fumes, and rinse it a few times... The water also has the advantage of showing you where the leaks are!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T09:57:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26762" CreationDate="2016-03-02T10:17:35.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for the odor is that water condenses inside the ducts when the AC cools the air. Though there are drains, there will still be enough moisture in the system to allow mold to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heating is usually placed after the AC. This is useful for screen defogging: The air is first dehumidified by the AC and then heated, which gives warm, extremely dry air. The other way, dehumidifying would not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you can't cook your mold, because it's sitting in the AC system, which you can't heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, mold dies when the temperature rises above 70°C for a longer period, may be one or two hours. This heavily depends on the type of the mold. Coolant of a warm motor typically has about 80-90°C, but it's possible that it has already cooled down a little when it flows into the heating part of the HVAC system. And the air may also not be fully heated to the temperature of the coolant. So, it's possible that the hot air is not hot enough to kill the mold. However, the air would be hottest for lowest fan speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, contrary to the answer you linked, I don't see how heating can help to dry the entire system. It only helps to dry the ducts between heater and vents, but not to dry the AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answer is better: Run the system (also at high fan speed) without AC for some  minutes to get as much humidity as possible out of the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind: Once there is dead mold, this is perfect food for the next mold...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T10:17:35.517" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33016" CreationDate="2016-03-02T10:24:01.057" Score="7" ViewCount="1984" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a Honda Africa Twin and my wife rides a stock Virago 535, just like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNS9J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNS9J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will soon sell my Africa Twin and we'll keep only the Virago, but I'm not very familiar with these types of motorbikes (looking forward to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is 1,52m and I'm 1,77m tall. The Virago is just the right size for her but it's too small for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do at home to make the bike more comfortable for me but in a way that my wife can still ride it as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I feel much difference if I change the handlebars? What would be the best for us both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I change the foot controls, would that make any noticeable difference on my riding position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can I do so we can both enjoy our motorbike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T17:23:18.693" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T08:44:14.817" Title="DIY: Prepare Virago for both tall and short riders" Tags="|motorcycle|custom|modification|virago|ride-height|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26751" CreationDate="2016-03-02T11:13:42.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems the rust is inside the tank, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the electrolysis method is the right one for a tank. First, the cathode must be placed inside the tank, because the tank itself forms a Faraday's cage, rendering a cathode outside useless. Of course, cathode must be isolated from the tank. And the cathode must have a reasonable large surface, which could also be difficult to achieve inside a tank. And as you should know, the mud on the cathode is just the minor part. There is even more mud at the bottom of the container. This mud will also build up in your tank, an where it is, it will restrain the process. And because it is partially metallic, it could form a short circuit between cathode an tank... Finally, the surface of the tank after the treatment isn't clean metallic, but you still have to clean it with a wire brush or similar. No idea how to do this inside a tank...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are rust remover products out there, which really dissolve the rust instead of just converting it. I'd use those, though it may be quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever method you chose, they will leave the metal with a sponge-like surface, and you can literally watch it rusting again. Even gas will not protect the metal enough.&#xA;So yes, coating the tank is mandatory, and requires a really clean surface. Zinc would be the best, but this is difficult to do. Maybe an absolutely fuel resistant 2-component paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T11:13:42.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26751" CreationDate="2016-03-02T12:16:33.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a picture of the tank? If you have any holes, obviously you would grind, cut, weld. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White vinegar does wonders. Fill it up to the brim, add some change. Let it sit for days, preferably a week. As you drain the tank, shake it rigorously, the flakes will come off. If you need to do this again, you most certainly can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinegar is a cost effective way to do this. Here are some results of what vinegar can do for you and all your rust removing needs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlTFQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlTFQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zbcq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zbcq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done make sure to seal your tank. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caswell&lt;/a&gt; makes a great product. They also have an epoxy sealer that you can look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxv8v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxv8v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:16:33.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26703" CreationDate="2016-03-02T12:48:07.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of issues here.  I will answer on the starting issue since it doesn't look like that has really been covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main parts of your starter circuit are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Battery&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Battery Connections&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Starter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ignition Switch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fuse&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Relay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the voltage on the battery.  If it is bad, the voltage will drop significantly when you turn the key.  Make sure the connections are clean and tight.  You can test the ignition switch by measuring the voltage at the 'signal' wire to the starter.  this will be the smaller wire.  Turn the key to start and see if you get 12v.  Check the fuse box for possible fuses on the starter circuit.  You can check wiring diagrams to see if there is a relay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:48:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26748" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:42:15.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a knife or an ice pick to get between the body of the plug and the head of the center pin/screw.  You should be able to pry the screw part out.  It is sometimes necessary to cut the entire head off with a knife or wire cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find replacement plugs either in the HELP! section at most auto parts stores or online at a Honda parts site, or amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:42:15.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26751" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:54:29.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some sealants used to reseal the inside of a gas tank.  Here is one that I know of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit_p_62.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit_p_62.html&lt;/a&gt; I'm sure other paint companies have similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:54:29.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26595" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:32:38.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the comment from @Ben, it's called the &quot;steering wheel tilt/telescope adjustment lever&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not trying to steal anyone's thunder, just getting this question off the 'unanswered question' list c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:32:38.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26755" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:32:51.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have oil in the cylinders as well who knows. Drain all the oil, pull out all the spark plugs take the dipstick, dip it in each cylinder and look for oil, if you have oil, then squeeze out all the oil from the cylinders. there is a little tool with a rubber ball on top with a little tube I don't remember the name, use that or a small pump and a pipe to suck all the oil. Let the engine drain oil for about one hour let it sit go have a cup of coffee. Clean and Install the spark plugs back on or use new ones if they don't look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour in fresh oil ( you can use the same oil, as it is new but I would not recommend, but just to make sure use fresh oil). This time make sure you add the required amount of oil only look up in your owners manual or online. Another method is to keep checking the dipstick and add oil accordingly. when you have enough oil in the car put the oil cap back on try starting the car. Let us know what happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:32:51.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26317" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:59:00.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little research leads me to believe (aka I could be wrong) that reverse gear in this car requires you to depress the shift knob and move it far left-forward. It also seems that some, but not all '02 TDi Jetta owners have had complaints that the difference between finding first and reverse gears is vague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as the knob location for the two gears are right next to each other, it is possible that the reverse lockout mechanism under the shift boot is not allowing you to access reverse, funneling you into first instead. This could be due to some kind of interference, so as @rpmerf suggested, you can remove the shift boot and whatever brackets/grommets are necessary to see the mechanism, then see if you can engage reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work (as I suspect it will not), the next step would be to adjust your shift cable linkage. A quick search with that terminology brings up a few TDi forums with DIY walkthroughs and youtube videos for that procedure. If that still doesn't work, you may need to replace the linkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:59:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12703" CreationDate="2016-03-02T16:32:14.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A starter clicking but not turning is a problem of amperage. Too few amps are making it to the actual starting motor. This can be caused by;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An almost dead battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corroded or loose battery cables/ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad windings/brushes in the starter motor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad/worn solenoid (in the starter of most modern vehicles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 years is generally a good life for a starting battery, but you said it tested OK under load. You also said the wiring was ok, so it sounds like you've already narrowed it down to the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Autozone and Orielly will both test starters (off the vehicle), I'm sure other auto parts stores do as well. If it tests bad, replace it. If not recheck the other items on the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T17:00:39.777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:00:39.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26762" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:10:40.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a spray can of deodorizer like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grainger.com/product/40L411?gclid=CPKQ4ei9ossCFVBhfgodOvcOHA&amp;amp;cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehicle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-40L411&amp;amp;AL!2966!3!50916716757!!!g!82495727877!&amp;amp;ef_id=Vtcc7AAABRRDixqM:20160302170340:s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or similar, found at most auto parts stores. It sprays directly into the air inlet below the windshield on the exterior of the vehicle while the fan is on to pull it through the system and out the vents. As sweber stated there's no way the cars heater is going to fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stop the nasty smell from starting by turning off my A/C compressor and leaving the fan on pulling &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; air for the last few minutes or so before reaching my destination. This causes the hot outside air to dry out the evaporator so the moisture doesn't sit in the system inside the hot car after it's off. The last few minutes may get a bit warm, but my car never smells when I get back in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="10395" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T19:01:06.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:01:06.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26750" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:26:28.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amperage will depend on thickness of the material. I can't give you an exact number, but any small TIG machine should do unless you're welding turbo stuff with thick flanges (like 3/8 or 1/2 inch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need a TIG welder for sure. With a TIG you can control exactly how much heat is going into the weld which is even more critical than typical steel welding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Welding titanium is no different in this respect. It still needs an inert gas to shield from oxygen. All titanium tubing I've welded also had gas flowing slowly through the inside of the tube via a separate tank so both sides of the weld are shielded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you find someone or a school that is willing to show you the process before you begin on your own. There's nothing wrong with jumping head-first into learning something, but DANG titanium is expensive to play with. Start with mild steel if you've never welded before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:26:28.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26742" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:01:27.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in the composition of the tire itself is most likely what you're feeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed up my rear tires on my Mazda RX7 once and the new tires felt so squirmy I would have sworn they were flat. Different tires can definitely change the feel of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure can also have an impact. Higher tire pressure usually means less of the tire on the ground and less rolling/turning resistance. This of course comes at the trade-off of less traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T18:01:27.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17364" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:02:15.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just so you guys know I found that the problem was that a fuse in the Engine Under Hood Fuse Box was almost melted due to temperature and rusted, so it wasn't getting proper contact with the slot it was placed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the actual fuse box: &lt;a href=&quot;http://s28.postimg.org/9sjr1w3nx/s_l1600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://s28.postimg.org/9sjr1w3nx/s_l1600.jpg&lt;/a&gt; The fuses I'm talking about are the ones placed in Park LPS and HORN. I have had many problems before with these fuses that made me not be able to see the background lights in the dashboard at night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10693" LastEditorUserId="10693" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T19:28:14.227" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T19:28:14.227" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26790" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:44:26.017" Score="14" ViewCount="7526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question bugging me: &lt;br/&gt; Obviously the car moves forward when neither applying the brake nor the accelerator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this not damage the transmission when the brake is pressed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first thought that perhaps the transmission releases when the brake is applied, but why can I inch forward while applying my brake then? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it would strip the transmission if it were trying to accelerate while braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Mac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 1: Thanks for all your responses, I now understand it! I don't think this is a duplicate, because the question on how a torque converter works doesn't include this question, and as a result I wasn't able to find an answer without asking a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15448" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-06-10T23:59:38.630" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T23:59:38.630" Title="How does the transmission not strip itself when applying the brake?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|idle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26783" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:48:49.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great question, and the answer lies here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/3942/12030&quot;&gt;Why doesn't the engine stall out when you come to a stop with an automatic transmission?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And more information here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19036/how-does-a-torque-converter-work&quot;&gt;How does a torque converter work&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a manual transmission, you push in the clutch to disengage the transmission.  With an automatic, that job is handled by the torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:55:17.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:57:41.287" Score="5" ViewCount="7533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mazda Protege that last had it's spark plugs replaced about 4-6 years ago (about 40k-60k miles).  It's a commuter car, but it's a short commute and mild driving conditions; probably 85% of its total miles are highway.  When I replaced the plugs back then, I used Platinum (or similar) plugs, and replaced the wires at the same time.  Currently I'm not having any noticeable problems (misfires, hesitations, poor MPG, etc).  My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that the car is running fine, is it necessary, or at least still recommended, to change them by now?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I likely to see any improved performance if I do, or would it just be preventative maintenance?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T19:13:55.877" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T02:21:13.730" Title="Is it necessary to replace functioning spark plugs?" Tags="|maintenance|mazda|sparkplugs|replace|protege|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:57:50.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is the first two characters&#xA;3 for 2013 E for May&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a similar battery Exide EA770 (March 16) and it is 5MD16B3 - 5M at the start so mine is made in Dec 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coding would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Year&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0= 2010 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1=2011 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2=2012 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3=2013 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4=2014 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5=2015 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6=2016 etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Month&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A=Jan &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B=Feb &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C=Mar &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D=Apr &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E=May &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F=Jun &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G=Jul &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H=Aug &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I=Sep &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;J=Oct &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K=Nov &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M=DEC&#xA;(L is not used to avoid confusion with the I)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15449" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T19:09:29.227" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:09:29.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26783" CreationDate="2016-03-02T19:10:24.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the torque converter on an auto and the clutch on the manual transmission do allow the engine to disengage the drive. I believe that the real answer to this question is that the gears in the gearbox are designed to be strong enough so that the gears won't be damaged either by the maximum torque of the engine driving it, or the forces on it through engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T19:43:14.737" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:43:14.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26785" CreationDate="2016-03-02T19:25:42.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth removing them, cleaning them and setting the gap if you don't want to replace them and they are still in good condition.  Spark plugs will be a scheduled item to replace, like you said, for preventative maintenance.  Unless the plugs were very dirty, worn or had a larger gap, you shouldn't notice any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T19:25:42.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:16:33.857" Score="2" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;!important&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/closed-cooling-system&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;closed-cooling-system&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;closed-cooling-system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cherokee-89&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cherokee-89&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cherokee-89&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/laredo&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;laredo&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;laredo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/6-cylender&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;6-cylender&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;6-cylender&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/4-liter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;4-liter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;4-liter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/non-start&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;non-start&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;non-start&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/stalling&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;stalling&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;stalling&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm wondering if the vacuum went bad, or if it could be anything else?  !&lt;strong&gt;PULL THE METAL LEVER UNDER THE VACUUM WHILE THE CAR IS ENGAGED [STARTING] TO TEST.&lt;/strong&gt; I think the vacuum doesn't require a fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clearly remember the car overheating, but the owner does not seem to; so, I'm not even sure if it's a heating problem, now.  I just know we're having intermittent non-start and frequent stalling issues: it rarely starts (see update).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to look at.  I replaced the thermostat and gasket, already.  There's a pin-size leak in the radiator-reserve-tank itself/'the coolant reserve bottle itself'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heating problem is causing the car to stall and not start.  Some of the head gaskets must have been broken, by now, because the owner will not stop &quot;risking it&quot; and &quot;taking a quick trip&quot;; so, &lt;strong&gt;!&lt;/strong&gt; I'm afraid the engine will crack if he continues.  Any emergency help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 0&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The spark plugs are burned at the tip;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rotor is burnt up (looks like a serrated knife edge when pulled).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found the reserve-coolant vacuum, I think (if so, it's called an &lt;code&gt;idle air control&lt;/code&gt;).  It has a lever under it, where the power cables come on: pulling the lever does nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car started after pulling a spark plug (&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/rough-idle-start&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;rough-idle-start&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;rough-idle-start&lt;/a&gt;).  I did cranked and released the key several times to get it to start, rather than holding the key down; so, I wonder if it's not getting too much power somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSRgVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSRgVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cherokee &amp;quot;89&amp;quot; firing order&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Found out the timing order is &lt;code&gt;1-5-3-6-2-4&lt;/code&gt; &lt;strong&gt;on 99% of 6-cylnders&lt;/strong&gt;.  There's an extruded cylinder the housing &lt;code&gt;between 1 and 5&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SacuP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SacuP.png&quot; alt=&quot;proof of spark plug gap size&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The spark plug gap is 0.035 (thirty-five thousandths [of an inch]).&#xA;Thank you for reading.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue: it shuts down when it starts to warm up.  No fluid under the thermal sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspected culprits: a !&quot;electronic coil&quot; (the wire on the distributor goes to it; on the passenger side, mounted on the wall of the engine enclosure). &lt;strong&gt;How should the resistance read on the volt meter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;!It's probably the control module&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15450" LastEditorUserId="15450" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T19:35:26.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T19:35:26.843" Title="No fluid under thermal sensor | '89 Jeep Cherokee reserve cooling system won't drain? | Car dies while running? &amp; Car dies without running?" Tags="|cooling-system|idle|stall|vacuum|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26783" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:40:21.313" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The somewhat longer answer is that the device that makes what you're asking possible is the torque converter. This device is a pair of curved blades setup as an impeller, and a turbine. The following cutaway pictures illustrate this setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZlMa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZlMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of torque converter internals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a torque converter split in half for a better view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKRBD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKRBD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque converter impeller side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKhyQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKhyQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque converter turbine side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way this works is explained really well by a You-Tube video here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5G2zQ_3xTc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5G2zQ_3xTc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the gist of it. The turbine is attached to the engine and rotates at the speed the engine does. The pump is the other set of blades, and it is attached to the output shaft which goes to the transmission. The only connection between the two sets of blades is a viscous fluid (transmission fluid). At idle, the converter is in a phase called stall. No power is transmitted because while the turbine is spinning with the engine, which causes fluid to flow into the pump, the pump doesn't move because it is attached to the wheels which are held by the brakes. When you release the brakes, you move forward because the fluid driven by the turbine into the pump causes the pump to move which gets sent to the transmission. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottom line, the reason this works is because there is no solid mechanical connection between the engine and the wheels. One of the links in that chain (the torque converter) only connects the engine to the transmission by two sets of turbine blades that face each other and are only indirectly driven by the force of moving the viscous fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a You-Tube video that demonstrates how the converter works using two fans. It really helps to visualize how the two turbine blade sets work together, and how the system works.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTfipsejqS0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTfipsejqS0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T20:53:37.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:53:37.800" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25961" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:44:44.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally found some information that has helped clarify this process a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Neo-Chrome&quot; (which seems to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://neochromeparts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;NeoChrome Parts&quot;&gt;brand name&lt;/a&gt;) along with the other terms I've come across including &quot;Aurora Electroplating&quot; and &quot;Burnt Titanium&quot;, all describe the process of Physical Vapor Deposition, or PVD. This process involves evaporating metals inside of a vacuum using an electric arc. Objects spinning around this source metal collect the evaporated particles as a coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zirconium, Titanium, and Chromium are the different source metals used in this process, which helps to explain how &quot;burnt titanium&quot; and &quot;neo chrome&quot; differ. I.e., different source metals, coating thickness, and process can all contribute to different thicknesses and colors. In addition, no two parts will have identical finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very curious as to how this process would scale up when coating a wheel, or larger objects than that. The few custom shops that offer this don't seem to show off their process very readily, but hopefully someone who does this for a living stumbles across this question and can expound on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;more info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://westcoastpvd.com/pvd-coating-process.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://westcoastpvd.com/pvd-coating-process.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14987" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:44:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26785" CreationDate="2016-03-02T20:54:37.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a tune up you can change the spark plugs in between 80-100, the ones that come stock are good ones so doesn't need replacement until they go bad or reach 80k, we at our shop replace them every 100k along with the timing chain or belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the car will have a tiny I4 motor so the spark plugs are right on the top, the spark plugs would only cost about 20 bucks for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you said the spark plugs were replaced around 50k, so after 5 years having 10000 miles per year you have put 50000 total. So I would say the spark plug should be fine for another couple years or 20000 miles, but if you have the time and 20 bucks go ahead replace them, it will only make it better, do this along with an oil change or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will be able to see any major change in performance, because your spark plugs seems to be working fine now as there are no warning lights on the dash, and you have used some good spark plugs when you previously changed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips: Don't over tighten the spark plugs, don't use any dropped spark plugs.&#xA;screw them in using a 16 inch socket and and extension with hand all the way in and only turn about quarter to half a turn after they are tight with a ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T20:54:37.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2016-03-02T21:32:51.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never ever do such things as adding dish soap to the coolant system to flush. Any soap in the system may start eating the engine blocks and could cause a catastrophic failure. Just flush the whole system a couple times with distilled water or bottled water if you really want to flush the system and use a 50000 mile warranty coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T21:32:51.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2016-03-02T21:34:22.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mount the engine on an engine stand by the bolts on the side of the engine. This gives you free access to the back of the engine including allowing the transmission to stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T21:34:22.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26821" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:23:15.500" Score="6" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a &quot;black box&quot; referred to by the media in the past and again today in the reporting of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnbc.com/2016/03/02/ex-chesapeake-ceo-mcclendon-dies-in-car-wreck-day-after-indictment.html&quot;&gt;death of Aubrey McClendon&lt;/a&gt;.  The headline on the TV said &quot;Police retrieve the Black Box from vehicle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a real device or do investigators pull data from the ECU and the media just calls it a &quot;black box&quot;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its a discrete device or a part of the ECU, what does it record, and for how long?  Is it hardened or fireproof like on an airplane or do investigators just have to hope that it's not damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read an updated article saying the vehicle in the McClendon case was a 2013 Chevy Tahoe that was almost completely destroyed by fire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T02:24:53.957" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:27:39.583" Title="Where is the &quot;Black Box&quot; in a vehicle and what does it record?" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26798" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:52:57.080" Score="2" ViewCount="40206" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mitsubishi Galant started showing  &quot;Trip [A]&quot; and also shows different miles? What does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15454" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T23:00:56.390" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T23:40:21.210" Title="Why is my car showing &quot;Trip [A]&quot; and some different miles on odometer?" Tags="|car|mitsubishi|odometer|galant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26797" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:58:49.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the part of the odometer called the &lt;em&gt;Trip Odometer&lt;/em&gt;. There should be a button you can push to cycle through the different settings very near the reading, usually in the dash. You can usually press and hold the button to allow for a reset. Since it shows an [A] on it, you can expect there is probably a second one named [B] (at a minimum). If you cycle through far enough, you'll get back to your regular mileage reading. You probably pressed the button accidentally and caused it to get to the trip reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T22:58:49.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26800" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:32:58.653" Score="4" ViewCount="2808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any downsides to early spark plug changes? some say 10k 15k etc and some do it as early as 5k =S but would it be okay to get into the habit of changing them after each oil change (6k) miles or am I going to get any problems doing it this soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about standard plugs, none of that platnium or iridium type stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:35:56.107" Title="any downsides to early spark plug changes?" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|small-engine|spark|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26799" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:49:18.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Other than the hole in your pocketbook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, though ... if you are going out of your way to purchase all of those spark plugs, you'd be better off just getting the platinum or iridium plugs which last much longer. For half as much again, you can get a plug which will last several times longer. Some of them will even boost performance over your stock plug. Considering most newer engines have spark plugs which are good for 100k miles, it makes sense to at least consider this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; One other thing to consider, especially for engines with aluminum heads. Every time you take the spark plug in and out of the threads, you are wearing them out just a little bit more. It is not unheard of for aluminum threads to completely strip out. The usual fix for this is to Heli-Coil the hole, which can be done while the head is on the engine, but a lot of care and time must be given to do it right without getting a lot of debris into the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T00:22:15.237" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T00:22:15.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26789" CreationDate="2016-03-03T02:41:57.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This may assist in diagnosis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May not be an answer for you but you mentioned;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The spark plugs are burned at the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of burned is important to your diagnosis.  If burned means the electrodes are eaten up a beat you could be suffering from a lean condition from a vacuum leak or a sensor not reporting properly to the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; you have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24514/what-possible-causes-for-the-check-engine-light-can-i-check-for-myself&quot;&gt;CEL (check engine light)&lt;/a&gt; on you will want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1460/helping-our-new-users-make-the-transition/1470#1470&quot;&gt;pull the codes&lt;/a&gt; via ODBII to see if you have some system faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a sparkplug chart so you can have some breadcrumbs regarding the issue you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am basing this around the comment regarding your sparkplugs.  You may want start by replacing the sparkplugs, wires and distributor cap, a standard thing to do, then see what issues you have remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful to you in your troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sparkplug Identification Chart&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bKQp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bKQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sparkplug chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T02:41:57.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2016-03-03T02:51:04.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spinning actually puts relatively little stress on your drivetrain. The initial surge of power that breaks the wheels loose is the biggest shock to your drivetrain. Once you're spinning, it's easy to maintain and not very stressful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, wheel hop is the killer. During wheel hop, your wheels break and then regain traction repeatedly, which sends shocks down your drivetrain. This kills transmissions, rear ends, etc. Whatever is weakest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above comes with the caveat that every car is different and some cars will be a lot closer to their limits than others, even at stock power. And some parts of the drivetrain will be weaker than others. So one car might be fine with a thousand burnouts, another car might toast the clutch on the first burnout, another car might blow up the rear end while yet another might rip apart the transmission. Obviously, the stickier your tires, the stickier the road surface and the more power you are sending through the drivetrain, the more stress you will inflict on everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T02:51:04.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26806" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:03:15.263" Score="2" ViewCount="3842" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people recommend spraying Lysol Disinfectant Spray or similar products into the HVAC intake to kill mold and bad odors inside HVAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the AC be on or off for this procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the evaporator coil is the most likely location of mold growth. If the AC is on, the coil will be cool, and stuff will condense on it. So it makes sense to run the AC for a while before you spray Lysol into the HVAC intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I haven't seen this bit being mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15334" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:25:25.323" Title="For cleaning HVAC with Lysol, should the AC be on or off?" Tags="|honda|ac|hvac|smell|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26796" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:15:06.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely that the article refers to a Telematics box which some insurance companies now require to be fitted on certain policies (typically for young drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These boxes are separate from the vehicles inbuilt systems but many of them interface with the OBD II / CAN-BUS system built into most modern cars.  Some new cars come with an inbuilt telematics box.  Typically these are essentially data loggers, many featuring a built-in mobile SIM slot which regularly transmit driving data to the insurer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:15:06.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:16:29.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is definitely a flap which opens downwards and is accessible underneath the knee bar.  You may find it easier to squat down outside the car with the door open wide to access this flap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sincere apologies on this as I'd thought all Mk1 Golfs had the fuse box in the same location but on my 1985 Mk1 Golf Cabriolet, the fuse box is located on the passenger side of the scuttle panel under the bonnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T08:32:58.613" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T08:32:58.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26803" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:25:25.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have to turn the ac on have the fan on full speed, turn off the recirculation, spray the lysol. roll the windows down blah blah.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch this video this has the complete procedure and the answer I just copied it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrVc_FXrbHY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrVc_FXrbHY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:25:25.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26964" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:03:46.110" Score="4" ViewCount="2168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have very little electrical knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have wired electronics (radar detectors, dash cameras, GPS units, etc.) to about a dozen vehicles in the past, but have ran into a strange issue with my 2016 Toyota Tacoma (which, I'm told, uses Can Bus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a switched 12V source (sensor on brake fluid reservoir); verified using a multimeter. 12v when the truck is running, 0 when it's off. I've spliced in a 12V accessory, and at this point the voltage dropped to 5V. If I disconnect my accessory's ground, the voltage goes back up to 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried numerous grounding locations for my accessory - does not seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the only easily-accessible, switched 12V source where I'm looking (engine bay), and I'd rather not run cables through the firewall to an in-cabin source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do in order to have my accessory run off this 12V source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing I could wire my accessory to the truck's battery via a relay, and use the switched 12V to control the relay, but I've never done that, so it's just a guess. I would prefer to avoid such complications, if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15465" OwnerDisplayName="Yuriy Babenko" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T23:05:20.763" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T23:05:20.763" Title="Why does my car's switched 12V drop to 5V when I add an accessory?" Tags="|wiring|voltage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26807" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:26:45.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the comment reveals the problem: you've tapped a sensor wire on the brake fluid reservoir. Could it be that the 12V supply is routed through a red lamp on the dashboard that lights up when the sensor sees low level and connects the wire to ground? If that's the case, it would measure as 12V on the multimeter, via the un-lit bulb (low resistance). Your accessory draws some current (to ground) via the bulb and the voltage drops to 5V. Maybe the bulb glows dimly on the dashboard. The multimeter does not draw enough current (almost none at all) to light the bulb or to drop any voltage across it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll need to find another place to tap off a switched 12V supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="John Honniball" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T23:26:45.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26799" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:35:56.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You dont need to change them that often as 5k that would just be useless. what @ᴘᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 said about the aluminum heads is perfectly right. Change them along with your timing chain or water pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you have to really careful when changing them. &#xA;Don't over tighten the spark plugs, don't use any dropped spark plugs. screw them in using a 16 inch socket and and extension with hand all the way in and only turn about quarter to half a turn after they are tight with a ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motoringabout.com/when-to-change-spark-plugs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.motoringabout.com/when-to-change-spark-plugs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://allaboutautomotive.com/blog/how-often-should-i-have-my-spark-plugs-replaced/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://allaboutautomotive.com/blog/how-often-should-i-have-my-spark-plugs-replaced/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:35:56.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:56:42.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two cases to be considered here both the carb and the clutch could be culprits here. Let me explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine warm and is at the normal operating temp and you floor it and no acceleration that means the culprit could be clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is not warm enough and it has only been about 5-10 minutes then it is the carb, there is a specific term to explain this phenomenon. In this case you floor the throttle and poor response and if you go easy on the throttle and you get the corresponding acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you confirm it is the clutch ride it for about good 30 minutes and then roll the throttle like mad and see which case it falls under. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but don't forget to check the adjustment to the clutch make the cable little tighter and see if it makes any difference, this is a simple thing to do and hurts nothing, you can revert it back real easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T04:56:42.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26339" CreationDate="2016-03-03T05:10:16.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi yes it seems like its leaking from ur tapped cover seal cause when u driving ur fan kick in and out as enging gets hot so the oil get blown to the back off the engine now it runs down the back that means it must be leaking some ware on the side or on the back of the tap pad cover cause oil gets thin if its warm. Best glean the engine then let it run hopefully u will find the leak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T05:10:16.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26816" CreationDate="2016-03-03T05:27:18.400" Score="5" ViewCount="5805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have driven a Skoda Fabia which has turn-key ignition system. When I start the car, there is a whole lot of vibration in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was in the initial stages of learning car driving, the car would stop in the mid of the busy road, as I was not used to changing gears swiftly. I had struggled to start the car by turning the key multiple times. Also, I have not driven any other car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask these questions based on my driving experience,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does start-stop ignition improve engine's life and performance ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it make the car ride, a smoother experience for the driver ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What could be the advantages of start-stop button over turn-key ignition ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14525" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T11:30:30.403" Title="What is the advantage of start-stop button over turn-key igniton in a car?" Tags="|starting|ignition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26275" CreationDate="2016-03-03T05:27:55.177" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh yes those are electric motors which set your light automatically. First check for a blown fuse, if that's ok. You see, each light has an adjustment motor in it. If you can get to it, you can remove it get it checked. That can be damage by the water. If water went in then it's possible that it's water damage. Best take it to an auto-electrical workshop that has experience in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastEditorUserId="12605" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T14:34:17.690" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T14:34:17.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2016-03-03T06:18:38.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it's fungus that's growing in all a/c. You can remove it yourself by using an anti-fungal spray at a fitment centre. Spray it on the outside where the wind gets into the car. When you turn your interior fan on there's a suction entery place where the air goes enters your engine bay, spray it there. It will get sucked into the pipes straight to where the fungus is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T18:02:52.307" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:02:52.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T08:48:10.980" Score="3" ViewCount="4747" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is &amp;lt;12 months old Merc S350 diesel. Suffering constant loss of coolant. Clear signs of 'pink' crystals in area of water filler and associated pipe work. It is as if the coolant is being forced out under pressure. Booked in to local Mercedes garage however have had bad experiences with Mercedes dealership which sold me car (not local). Any comments on possible causes (and what I should be asking Mercedes to check) gratefully received. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sqSm5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sqSm5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15456" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T15:05:35.847" Title="What could be causing loss of coolant - crystals forming around expansion chamber" Tags="|coolant|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26812" CreationDate="2016-03-03T11:27:23.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In no way would a button improve the performance or life-time. Maybe you could possibly argue that it could save the starter engine from running to long (which shouldn't be a problem for most people), but to the engine itself it does no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ride of the car is of course in no way affected. A smoother experience? Maybe, that's a question of preference I guess. For example if you have a &quot;keyless go&quot; (or whatever it's called at the individual brands) (you can have the key in your pocket) you could argue that it would be a smoother experience.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yesteryears (and nowadays on some simpler car models) the key was directly coupled to the ignition and starter engine (via relays etc). So when you turned your key you knew (more or less) what was happening. But (I think) most modern cars have a lot of computers controlling stuff, so for example when you turn to crank your engine, the key (or starter button) will send a command to a computer that in turn will do a bunch of stuff (and one of the things is to turn on the starter engine). On many cars this computer will nowadays run the starter engine for as long time as it takes (or a fail timeout), so you don't have to press the button (or turn the key) until the engine starts, but instead the computer determines when the engine is running. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The message I want to convey is that key or button doesn't matter, it's just a question of style, and convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and the button comes more or less from motorsports where a key isn't as important. It's both quicker to push, and easier to install a simple button. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T11:27:23.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26812" CreationDate="2016-03-03T11:30:30.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason I see for the start/stop button is cars with RFID key fobs.  You do not need to put the key in the ignition, you simply need it inside the vehicle.  Since there isn't a slot to put the key into, it makes more sense to use a button than a standard rotating ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not effect the performance, or longevity of the engine.  It may effect the life of the starter, as the computer will know exactly when to disengage, and not to run it too long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T11:30:30.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26796" CreationDate="2016-03-03T12:08:07.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is maybe more of a comment than an answer, but..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no black box like on a plane (at least not on the brand I know most). &#xA;There are several ECU's and it's possible that they save some data, for diagnostic purposes. If such data is stored, it would probably have to be extracted by the manufacturer, or by a costly police investigation (hacking those ECU's). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if such data is stored I would actually think(!) that (at least in Sweden) it would be illegal for the manufacturer to extract it for the police. When buying the car you are not allowing anyone to log, store or sell (or forward) such data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15182" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T12:08:07.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26815" CreationDate="2016-03-03T13:38:40.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if you have excess coolant in the reservoir, the coolant is oozing out during the expansion, at this point with the data you gave I am not sure if the car is over heating or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the max and min levels on the reservoir and adjust the level of coolant accordingly. when the coolant from the radiator expands upon heating the excess flows into the reservoir and if the reservoir already had excess it would try to ooze out of the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is almost a new car I definitely don't think its about the head gasket. Do check to make sure the cap on the reservoir is tight, there are no cracks in the reservoir, the level of the reservoir fluid, and check if the car is over heating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean of all the residue off the reservoir tank, adjust the level of coolant and take it for a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T15:05:35.847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T15:05:35.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26754" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:08:57.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as you are in the UK - the legal options for aftermarket headlights are given on the Department of Transport website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/aftermarket-hid-headlamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/aftermarket-hid-headlamps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary it states that according to the letter of the law all aftermarket HID upgrades are illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it goes on to admit that the law hasn't caught up with technology.  It states that any system certified compliant to the EU regulation ECE98 is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, to answer your question, are there any legal upgrades - it depends!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as Dickens' Mr.Bumble famously said, &quot;&lt;em&gt;The law is a ass - a idiot&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:08:57.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26796" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:16:19.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on @Ben comment, the air bag controller on GM vehicles does record information prior to, during, and after air bag deployment.  It would include most of the operating parameters of the vehicle that you can find on a diagnostic tool.  This has been true as far back as the early 2000's when I was a ASE Master Tech at a GM dealership.  I can't speak to other makes, but I would assume that all manufacturers are doing this for liability purposes.\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crashforensics.com/automobiledatarecorders.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastEditorUserId="1467" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T14:27:39.583" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:27:39.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26824" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:35:53.517" Score="2" ViewCount="7105" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to find Honda FIT GP5 2014 vin number. I have search it in everywhere. But couldn't get a solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T16:06:11.670" Title="Honda FIT GP5 vin number" Tags="|honda|fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26822" CreationDate="2016-03-03T14:48:35.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To find the VIN number of your car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are standing outside the car, facing it, the VIN number should be on a plate &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; the glass of the windshield near the lower right corner of the windshield.  This is the case for almost every modern car in the US.  I guess the VIN plate might be on the left side (facing the car) on a Right Hand drive model - not sure, but it should be under the windshield on one side or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3tjY.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3tjY.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB6EU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB6EU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another easy trick is to look at your car insurance card.  It will normally have the VIN number as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:48:35.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26822" CreationDate="2016-03-03T15:21:03.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of places where you can find the vin number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the dash board, look through the windshield on the driver side bottom corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the driver side rear door pillar right next to the driver seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the insurance paper. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the title for the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some newer cars on the fenders(on the inside difficult to see without pulling it) , hood, trunk(or bonnet), rear quarter panel where the rear door latches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is an image that can help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDFHq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDFHq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T16:06:11.670" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T16:06:11.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T16:26:49.743" Score="2" ViewCount="3088" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine code led to me to replacing my fuel pressure regulator on my 2004 Ford Freestar. I had the same issue a couple years ago, so I was familiar with the replacement process. After replacing it, the check engine light went off for 5-10 minutes, then came back on and the car continued acting the way it was before. That is, when stopped (and running), it will bounce a little, and after idling for about 20 seconds, it will usually just turn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T22:11:46.420" Title="replaced fuel pressure regulator, still having same issue" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23862" CreationDate="2016-03-03T16:49:26.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @juhist that the nothing in the gearbox or engine can be damaged by holding the clutch (fully) in at lights. The only parts to consider are the clutch's throw-out bearing and maybe the diaphragm spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't think it's a big deal to hold in the clutch at lights. I drive a manual transmission in a major city and spend a decent amount of time sitting in stop-and-go traffic on and off the clutch. Sometimes I hold the clutch in at lights, but mostly I don't because my leg gets tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my transmission rebuilt at 85,000 miles and they replaced the clutch at the same time.  I assume they examined the throw-out bearing and didn't find any issue with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical wear aside, there is one reason to idle in gear with the clutch depressed and that's for safety.  If you suddenly see a another car barreling down on you can get away a second or two faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what's taught in the Motorcycle Safety Foundation riding course. It might be more of a safety issue for motorcycles since you don't have a protective cage around you, but it's something else to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15260" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T21:02:51.933" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T21:02:51.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26754" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:11:44.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of old vehicles, the dim lights might be an outcome of corrosion on the wiring for the lights and wear in the switch contacts. Headlight relay kits are available that use the existing wiring to switch the relays and draw power directly from the car battery or another source. I haven't looked but I expect that there's kits specced to allow you to put higher power bulbs in but that would still be limited by how much heat the headlights can handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits seem to start at about £5 on eBay but I've no idea of the quality of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kits don't require any changes to the headlight or bulbs and the connectors all fit straight onto the existing headlight connectors so there won't be a problem at the MOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T17:11:44.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:21:04.283" Score="7" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving a bit yesterday I came home and noticed that a part seemed to be hanging down from the rear left section of my car. The car is a 99 Subaru Legacy. Can anyone tell me what this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nczeJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nczeJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15471" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:59:01.217" Title="What's this part? Hanging from left rear of Subaru 99 legacy." Tags="|subaru|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T17:29:44.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan with a 2.4L I-4 with California emissions and 250k miles on it. I desperately need to replace my fuel injectors but the price is steep!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain to me what the difference in the fuel injectors is, between the version for standarf/federal emissions, and California emissions vehicles? At this moment, I've been looking for info on them but can't find much... and honestly, they appear to be the same injector, just priced differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the difference between emissions types, but I want to know the difference between the injectors for those types of emissions. Honda gave me two different part numbers for them, but declined to detail what the difference was - other than $100 per injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone shed some light? Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  As far as I can tell, the numbers stamped on the injectors are as follows:&#xA;RH28&#xA;AAZT&#xA;Z&#xA;90 degrees from that, on the side of the injector, is just &quot;T&quot; which I'm assuming means it's a model T injector - the part numbers from Honda are 16450RADL61 for the CA emissions injector, and 16450RAAA01 for the Federal emissions injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda and Rock Auto both list a separate injector for the SULEV CA emissions engine, Autozone and everyone else has only one, the model T. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've replaced the injectors with a standard &quot;T&quot; model, so far no issues that I can tell, and my car has lost 80% of its misfires... I still have an exhaust leak to fix and after that I should be able to tell if the emissions are good or not. Thanks all for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15472" LastEditorUserId="15472" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T17:58:42.397" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T05:04:37.693" Title="Difference between fuel injectors and emissions standards" Tags="|emissions|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2016-03-03T18:23:41.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never experienced any problems with this over many years of turbocharging (all with sleeve-bearing oil-cooled turbos). The bearings should not be any hotter than the oil passing through it. For the most part, the center housing is thermally isolated from the hot turbine side. The turbine blades will dissipate heat much more quickly than they will transmit it up the shaft to the center housing. It's an enormous amount of surface area vs a tiny shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that I get 1400 F turbine inlet temperature cruising on the highway with a peak around 1700 at redline and full boost. Idling, the turbine inlet temps are below 1000. The temperatures change extremely quickly. Even by just lifting my foot off the gas for a couple of seconds, I can lower turbine inlet temperatures by nearly a thousand degrees. The problem with idling is that the turbine inlet temperatures quickly go down but never to any temperature that is remotely safe for oil, even after an hour of idling. By the time you're done parking the car, everything is as cool as it's going to get without shutting off the car. So I shut off the car. Nothing bad has ever happened from this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat, I have only ever run heavy weight, high temperature full synthetic motor oil. If you run crap oil, I'd raise the chances of coking and other misery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="14378" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T18:54:40.863" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T18:54:40.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="50300" CreationDate="2016-03-03T19:44:42.000" Score="11" ViewCount="2772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been tracking down a number of low grade oil smells in the car lately (2004 Subaru WRX).  So far, that has included replacing the left front axle (was losing all kinds of grease through the boot), replacing a power steering hose that had a tiny hole and fixing a slight overfill of transmission oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I still have a slight hot oil smell after driving home from work. After a little bit of under hood detective work, I see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m671Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m671Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil on the throttle body hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the throttle body hose coming out of the front side of the intercooler. This is not a place that I would expect to find oil. For context, here's a larger scale picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Y7xK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Y7xK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The same hose with a little more context.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: what is going on here?  How did oil get on top of that hose (and on the edge of the intercooler)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:32:26.553" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T18:42:31.707" Title="Why is oil on my throttle body hose?" Tags="|subaru|oil-leak|smell|wrx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26837" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:08:19.933" Score="8" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people want the check engine light to go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing some research for school and I want it to come on. Does anyone know some simple problems or faults I can create with a vehicle in order to make the check engine light come on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These would be faults that the car can run with (not necessarily drive with) without causing permanent damage, hopefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to develop software for a school project that can track Error codes going on and off over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that any advice you give is for educational purposes and don't hold anyone here accountable if something goes catastrophically wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15476" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T20:57:54.003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:29:41.330" Title="Looking for easy ways to set error codes" Tags="|dtc|mil|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26834" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:16:03.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start unplugging stuff.  The engine will normally run with a lot of the sensors unplugged, but the check engine light will come on quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some easy to reach ones:  Mass Air Flow (MAF), Oxygen sensors, sometimes the throttle position indicator (on the throttle body).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can unplug the power to the secondary air injection pump, it will cause a fun light that will only come on after driving it for a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugging a fuel injector should lead to a flashing check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (if not all) of what I mentioned should make the light go back off once corrected.  You might have to complete a few drive cycles for some of them to &quot;reset&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:16:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26834" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:20:42.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;@JPhi1618 answer is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just add a few more,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can unplug the EGR Valve electrical connector, no harm to engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull out a coil pack or coil wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:20:42.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26834" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:26:09.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CEL trigger implementation will vary across vehicles, but here are a few for you to try out. They should not have any negative effect in the long-term on the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0102&quot;&gt;P010x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - unplug MAF sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300&quot;&gt;P030x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - unplug a spark plug wire/coil (unplugging the corresponding injector is recommended)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p00420&quot;&gt;P0420&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt;/&lt;kbd&gt;P0430&lt;/kbd&gt; - unplug the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:26:09.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26833" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:37:18.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a small hole or crack in your inter cooler that is letting out oil that has leaked out of your turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or possibly the inter cooler to throttle body joint is leaking the same oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this on a different make/model car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T08:09:07.647" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T08:09:07.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26039" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:58:16.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question. Engine building is a bit over my head (for now), so this may be an incomplete answer, but  I do have some insights that are waaay too long for the comments section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spring Design Stuff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important factors in designing a valve spring are going to be rate, free standing length (FL), coil bind  (solid height), and stress. The amount of wire in the spring determines the rate (less wire = higher rate = higher stress), so wire Ø, coil count, and spring Ø are the dimensional factors that will effect rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rate and FL, when combined with valve stem length, will allow you to calculate seat pressure. To increase seat pressure, you can increase FL or rate, both of which increase stress as the spring approaches solid height. Stress is a critically limiting factor in valve spring design, considering the extreme environment. For the sake of theoretical discussion, however, it does not matter, and will not be mentioned again. I will also ignore float, as that is fairly situational phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum valve lift is advised to be some number (say .050&quot;) over solid height of the spring so as not to break all of the things. Solid height is simply coil count * wire Ø.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Is there a correlation between seat pressure and valve lift?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes and no, depending on your limitations. Given the above information, and keeping all other dimensional factors constant (FL, wireØ, coil count, springØ), there are only two individual dimensional changes to the spring that would effect both seat pressure AND valve lift:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing wire Ø would increase spring rate and therefore seat pressure, but also increase solid height, limiting valve lift. Wire Ø is calculated to the fourth power in the spring rate equation, so seat pressure would increase exponentially as the valve lift decreased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing the coil count would increase the spring rate, and again seat pressure, but would decrease the solid height, allowing more valve lift. Active coil has a linear relationship to rate, so seat pressure increases linearly with valve lift. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: All other individual changes to dimensional variables show no correlation. If you want to know the effect of changing multiple variables, it gets much more complicated, unless you have specific numbers to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT BASED ON COMMENTS&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I wrote this answer from a spring design point of view, as if you were shopping for springs for your engine build. As per Paulster2's comment, a common way to increase seat pressure for the springs you already have is to install a shim between the cam lobe and spring body. Doing so will increase your seat pressure by some number of lbs (spring rate * shim height), and will also DECREASE your valve lift, as your new installed spring height is lower, bringing the spring closer to its solid height. So, to re-answer the question, if you are using a shim to increase seat pressure, valve lift with decrease linearly as seat pressure increases. See example below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theoretical example:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Say you have a 1.000&quot; tall (unloaded FL) spring with a 100 lb/in rate, and your spring coil binds at .300&quot;. Right now, you install your spring at .800&quot;, which travels the spring .200 inches at 100 lbs/inch, for a seat pressure of 20 lbs. That means your remaining travel from installed height to solid height is .500&quot;, so in theory, your maximum valve lift is .499&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now say you wanted to increase your seat pressure to 30 lbs. To do so, you install a .100&quot; shim somewhere between the end of the spring and the cam lobe. This lowers the installed length of the spring to .700&quot;, giving you the 30 lb seat pressure you were looking for, but it also reduces the amount of travel between your installed length and solid height to .400&quot;, leaving you with a theoretical maximum valve lift of .399&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) What are the differences between roller and tappet cam springs?&lt;/strong&gt; I have no idea. I don't see why there would be a difference. I was thinking a roller would allow a higher seat pressure, but ideally you have the lowest seat pressure possible so as to more hastily allow air past the valve, so I don't see why you'd need different springs. Again, I could be wrong, please let me know if you have more specific questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) What are the downsides of using a higher seat pressure than required?&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;As you mentioned, frictional losses, which increase heat in an already toasty environment. As you know, as heat increases (beyond a certain material specific point), the torsional rigidity of the wire will decrease, possibly causing yield, definitely causing a drop in seat pressure/rate. From a spring standpoint, higher than necessary seat pressure has no benefit, and not insignificant detriments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can also get into the discussion of valvetrain weight (and spring material), which, like suspension systems, will effect how quickly the spring can react to changes. Regardless of whether the valve is open or closed, the center coils in a valve springs are constantly moving when the engine is running due to the weight of the material in the spring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this answered some of your question(s). Please let me know if I can clarify, add to, answer additional, or delete this post!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T15:44:32.100" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:44:32.100" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26829" CreationDate="2016-03-03T20:59:01.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the EVAP vent solenoid. And I think you mean right rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6Oyf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6Oyf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T20:59:01.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26834" CreationDate="2016-03-03T21:01:26.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the list, run the engine without the fuel filler cap on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:01:26.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26825" CreationDate="2016-03-03T21:21:54.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the code is P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor Circuit High Input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the fuel rail is a 4 wire pressure transducer - The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. This is a 5v Reference voltage sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backprobe pin 4 gray/red for ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backprobe pin 2 brown/white for 5v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backprobe pin 1 red/pink for output 2.2v @ 30 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see reference voltage on pin 2 test for reference voltage at the throttle position sensor pin 1 same color. If you don't see reference voltage there. Test pin 90 of the PCM connector for reference voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have reference voltage at pin 90 and not at either sensor you likely have a bad splice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically though with this code it's the sensor it self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also going to want to confirm fuel pressure either with a scan tool or with a gauge. If fuel pressure drops off and is causing the stall check the Fuel Pump Driver Module located on the bottom of the left B pillar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 5 white is power feed from the Inertia Switch 12v&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pins 2 &amp;amp; 4, black &amp;amp; pink/black feed voltage and ground to the fuel pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 6 white/red is FPDM control and should be a variable voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T21:36:37.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:36:37.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26834" CreationDate="2016-03-03T21:26:58.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi like on opel astra when ur remove fuse numa 20 in fuse box engine light will come on radiator fan won't come on nd it will only run in low gear thts only on the automatic opel astras&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T21:26:58.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2016-03-03T21:49:37.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can say the easy way for you is to get a low amp tester. Remove the negative cable of your battery, connect the tester to the negative side of the battery and to the negative cable of vehicle. The light will come on if there is a drain somewhere. If there is, remove fuses 1 at a time. Every time you remove a fuse, check the light. If it goes out then you know at least what circuit is draining your battery. Then you know what and where. You can take it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:41:14.870" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:41:14.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3910" CreationDate="2016-03-03T22:00:10.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yea so to respond to Kylee Johnson blog, I agree mostly however, leaving your AC on with newer models will have an adverse effect on your attitude, but only if you leave your AC on while turning your car off more than 72 hours. It will draw negative charge from your muffler causing you to fail your next smog check. So always turn your AC dial off when powering down your vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Former Volvo mechanic Joe Korn          &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15480" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T22:15:44.503" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T22:15:44.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15196" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:42:03.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is recommended that in high heat that you use the max AC and recirc buttions. This will not time out and makes the vehicles AC&#xA;system much more efficient and use less energy and have a smaller chance of overheating the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15482" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T23:42:03.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T23:51:40.587" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some new car models feature this auto engine stop when the car is in complete stop while you foot is on the pedal and auto restart the engine once you release it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this &quot;feature&quot; any good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is good as in it saves fuel. I am not sure if it will cause damage to the engine or any other parts due to frequent start stop in town. At the end, do the goods outweigh the bads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14681" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T00:01:33.943" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T13:55:40.217" Title="How good is auto engine start stop feature?" Tags="|engine|starting|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-04T15:29:04.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26757" CreationDate="2016-03-04T00:41:57.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out. The answer is manufacturer dependent. The OBD-II diagnostic port has a number of pins which are listed as &quot;Vendor Option&quot;. The manufacturer may choose to connect one or more of these pins directly to the Medium Speed CAN Bus or the Low Speed CAN Bus. Doing so will provide direct access to message traffic along those Bus lines in real time. If a gateway is involved there are two basic approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) This is the more popular option. The OBD-II port connects directly to the High speed CAN bus. The port can directly monitor traffic along the High Speed CAN bus. One of the nodes on the HS CAN bus (typically the Body Control Module or something similar) acts as the gateway to the Medium Speed CAN bus. To access data on the MS bus, a diagnostic Remote Frame (IAW CAN Spec 2.0) is transmitted on the HS bus and meant for the gateway node. Upon reception the gateway node then generates an additional Remote Frame on the MS bus meant for whatever the target node on that bus is. Upon reception the target node then transmits the requested data on the MS bus. The gateway node receives it, then when the HS bus is idle it will transmit that data across the HS bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) The OBD-II port may be connected to a dedicated gateway which will only deliver data from a specific Bus if a diagnostic request is sent through the port. If no request is sent there will be no discernible traffic. You must always send a diagnostic remote frame request message if you want to pull data from a particular node on a particular bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15110" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T00:41:57.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T01:54:24.990" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Calgary I shipped a 1998E=Class320 to Nigeria and i lost the key. Am going to Nigeria in June how can I get a replacement without the car here in Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T01:31:36.900" Title="Ignition Key Replacement" Tags="|ignition|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T05:59:30.870" Score="4" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car currently has multiple fault codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0031 - Heater control unit (HO2s)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0037 - Heater control unit &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0403 - Exhaust gas recirculation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0342 - Camshaft sensor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic says we will need to replace the O2 sensor and it will fix it, but reading the various articles online tells me that a bad camshaft sensor is more likely to cause engine stalling during idle. Any idea what's the best way to go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: Chevrolet Spark 2010 Petrol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15488" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T16:02:41.147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T16:02:41.147" Title="Car turning off everytime I idle" Tags="|chevrolet|stall|spark|p0031|p0037|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24746" CreationDate="2016-03-04T10:02:19.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both low beams stop working at the same time, there are a few things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the bulbs still good, it's not unheard of for both to fail at the same time, or close to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the fuses and relays working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the switch working correctly - quite a few cars are known for having weak headlight switches that either wear out or burn out the contacts over time, although this is more prevalent in older cars with un-relayed headlamps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the wiring all good - are there any loose connections, damaged wires or badly corroded earth points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T10:02:19.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26885" CreationDate="2016-03-04T10:49:16.780" Score="6" ViewCount="7162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Mazda 626 GF and I'd like to test the ignition coils with a multimeter to see if any of them are starting to fail.  The car has ECU controlled timing / ignition and there are two coils, each one servicing two cylinders I assume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T23:38:49.623" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:25:29.100" Title="How to Test an Ignition Coil with a Multimeter" Tags="|diagnostics|ignition-coil|multimeter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T10:55:13.607" Score="10" ViewCount="12438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed the struts on my car, and was curious how fast a strut piston should return after being depressed.  In my case the old ones didn't have any return at all almost ( after a few minutes they had returned maybe 4 inches ).  The new ones took maybe a second or two to return to full length. I didn't time it, just seemed quick, but not too quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about depressing the silver piston in the middle of the MacPherson strut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPYKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPYKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT August 4th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/u4ol6U7kqgU?t=2m43s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparing my old strut to my new strut&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T21:03:28.700" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T21:03:28.700" Title="How Fast Should a Depressed Strut Piston Return?" Tags="|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30407" CreationDate="2016-03-04T10:59:24.360" Score="5" ViewCount="19574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed the front struts and strut mounts on my 98 Mazda 626.  The old ones were completely shot.  While I noticed an improvement in the ride, it wasn't nearly as much as I expected, and quite frankly the ride is still quite bouncy.  While I assume a little of that is probably the rear struts being worn out also, it still just seems really quite excessively bouncy.  The tires are properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing the two struts, I push down on the corner, I can barely get it to move ( I'm only 70kg / 155 pounds ) and it comes straight back to the starting position without even one bounce.  This may be just because I'm only able to depress it an inch or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T10:54:31.307" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T16:26:02.877" Title="My Ride is Still Very Bouncy after Changing the Struts and Strut Mounts" Tags="|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T11:05:51.313" Score="4" ViewCount="14649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay I'm driving a 1998 Honda Civic EX and I have an audio system in my car that is about 7-8 years old now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had done some work on one of the terminals on the subwoofers, and melted plastic in between the terminals as an insulator. After about a month, my CD player started flickering on and off again, as it does nearly every winter, which also happens during heavy humidity or rain, because there are some air leaks in my car as I have wrecked it a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have replaced the alternator belt, the battery, and the headlight switch. We fixed the headlights a while back, and I ended up hitting these pot holes strewn across I-40 around Knoxville, TN, jarring something once again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain that the battery drain is directly connected to moisture but even after unplugging my main fuse for my subs coming from the battery, and disconnecting the faceplate (which works on dry days/nights at work). My problem is that my car battery dies while it is turned off for 8+ hours but not while it is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the power is disconnected, power shouldn't be able to drain, unless there is something physically broken and touching in the cd player, however, without the ignition on, there shouldn't be any currents at all. I have a ticket from the city I live in and a city I recently visited and I'm supposed to have it repaired in about 9 days. What could be causing the issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds, the cd player will forget that it was messed up, and turn on again, until I turn the volume up to high, at which point it will flicker to the point of just shutting off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The head lights are not related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastEditorUserId="7819" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T18:37:09.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T18:37:09.357" Title="Amplifier is causing battery drain" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|audio|drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2016-03-04T11:12:42.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three tests that can be preformed using a multi meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A DIS type coil that services two cylinders works like a transformer. The primary windings are controller by the ECU. The secondary windings are the output to the two cylinders. The primary and secondary windings should never touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the ohm function check the primary and secondary sides for opens or very high resistance. It is generally a good idea to compare multiple coils that are on the vehicle. If one of the windings is open the coil is most likely completely dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thirds test requires having a multi meter that supports conductance. Many high end Fluke multi meters support this function. Conductance is the reciprocal of resistance. When using the ohms function and the leads aren't touching the meter reads OL. When using conductance the meter will read OL when the leads touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the insulation between the primary and secondary windings set the meter to conductance. Touch one lead to the primary and one lead to the secondary. The meter should not read OL. If it does then there is a path between the primary and secondary, kind of like touching the leads together. If the meter shows numbers that jump around then the coil is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T11:12:42.943" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26862" CreationDate="2016-03-04T12:26:00.763" Score="4" ViewCount="16688" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm using a known good spark plug to test spark at each wire, do I need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/XcmWa2Bt12U?t=4m16s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ground the threads of the plug to the engine block&lt;/a&gt; like the guy in this video is doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I don't ground the threads and just let it jump through the air to the block?  I'm asking cause that's what I did once; I could see an ark going from roughly the threads of the plug to the engine block and then also the regular spark at the end of the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T01:54:25.327" Title="Do I Need to Ground the Spark Plug When Testing" Tags="|ignition|sparkplugs|ignition-coil|spark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26861" CreationDate="2016-03-04T12:40:47.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should ground the spark plug. In your case the spark plug was close enough to the block to still jump the gap. If the plug was far enough away from metal nothing would have happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When testing for spark it is recommended to use a spark tester. Using a spark plug is a poor test of the ignition system. In free air the spark plug gap poses a very small load to the coil. The spark plug loads the coil when it is in a compressed mixture of air and fuel. The spark tester is either rated for a specific Kv or is adjustable to different Kv. By adjusting the tester to the Kv rating of the coil and then watching the quality of spark the health of the coil can be assessed. The spark should be bright and blue not dim and orange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n8Tjr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n8Tjr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T12:40:47.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:31:44.393" Score="0" ViewCount="11922" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it dangerous to take a nap in a car, while leaving the engine idling? I've heard that parking garages are a bad idea, but I assume that being outside gives it area to dissipate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be sleeping for several hours, so is it bad to let the engine idle for this amount of time, for heating etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about with the engine off, will the humidity increase and cause damp etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15493" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T18:16:42.260" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:16:42.260" Title="Will sleeping in my car damage it in any way?" Tags="|idle|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-12-27T23:55:20.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:51:44.053" Score="9" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the last 3 years I have changed my battery twice, the starter motor, the timing chain, and water pump. Still, it seems that my car doesn't start on cold weather winter days at least 3 times a year. This is especially common if I let the vehicle sit unused for only a single day. The vehicle is not garaged, and I feel that this is certainly a contributing factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any preventative maintenance I should conduct in an effort to avoid this inconvenience? Or, is this an inevitability when vehicles are garaged outdoors overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:48:57.300" Title="Preventative maintenance to avoid winter start difficulties?" Tags="|cold-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26849" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:55:40.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, I would think this would improve the life of the engine as it is running less.  This will cause the starter to work harder and wear out faster.  Since the engine was recently run, all of the parts will have a coating of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think this system would wait until the engine is at operating temperate before starting the start/stop routine.  Otherwise, I would think starting/stopping on a cold engine could lead to more wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T13:55:40.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26869" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:12:45.810" Score="5" ViewCount="6190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had several problems with my car's wiring oxidizing at the exposed ends near and under post clamp and causing electrical connectivity problems. The braided wire is a pain to brush clean and I wanted to solder them to the post clamp to prevent this in the future, to prevent oxidation from coming between the wire and the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any problems with soldering the wire to the post clamp? What should I consider before doing this, or when doing this?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I've read that one should make sure to keep the solder close to the post so that it doesn't stiffen the cables, causing breakage due to vibrations. Are there other problems to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using this style clamp:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB5B7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB5B7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11205" LastEditorUserId="11205" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T14:23:40.090" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T16:36:03.180" Title="Considerations for soldering car battery wires?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:31:12.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would do is clean the terminals with some flux and a brush, or even a really fine grit sandpaper, and then if you need you can tin the clamps. What I've done is place copper foil between the post and the clamp, just to provide a bit of a buffer and give a bit more pressure on the post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is really that corroded, check that your battery isn't leaking.&#xA;In general it's going to be hard to make a good solder joint between oxidized parts, I wouldn't rely on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Ok, if it's a problem between the wire and the clamp, I'd get new clamps, or do what I said with the flux and brush on the clamps where the wire connects. If the copper of the wire is corroded, what I would do is trim the wire and strip a bit of the insulation so that the oxidized part is cut off and an unoxidized bit is exposed, and then crimp/screw that back into the clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15448" LastEditorUserId="15448" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T14:42:45.240" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:42:45.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:45:40.927" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to solder them, clean the terminals really well and apply some dielctric grease or buy some battery terminal protector, this is a spray that you can spray on the terminals and this will keep the battery form corroding.&#xA;I personally use heavy duty bearing grease to apply over and around the terminals, this helps really well keeping the terminals from corroding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dielectric grease can be used with any electrical wires, connectors. This does not hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video that you can watch.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAPsliigtFg&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAPsliigtFg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:45:40.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2016-03-04T14:49:52.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first, most important step is going to be to get the stranded wire as clean as possible.  You won't be able to scrape or scrub it clean - you will need a chemical cleaner.  There are several &quot;how-to&quot; pages online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-perfectly-clean-wires-in-minutes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; that describe a simple solution you can make at home.  The linked page uses a vinegar-salt solution to act as an acid to clean the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wires are shiny and clean, thread a piece of quality heat shrink onto the cable to protect everything once you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp the wire to the terminal tightly and coat the area to be soldered with flux.  Use a torch to heat the wire and the terminal, but focus the heat on the steel strap.  Be very careful to not overheat the terminal.  They are made from a soft metal with a low melting point, so only apply just enough heat to the wire and terminal to melt and flow the solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do this well away from the battery.  It would be best to remove the whole cable for safety, but protect any plastic parts and keep heat away from oil and fuel if you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only use enough solder to fill in the clamped area.  Reducing the flexibility of the wire is a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is cool, slide up the heat shrink and heat it up to tightly seal the end of the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after reading all that, and imagining yourself doing it, consider buying a replacement cable that comes with a pre-attached terminal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GLpY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GLpY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to be cleaner and more durable than what you can do at home, but there is some expense to it (varies from $10 to $90 depending on the car and whether or not its a Volkswagen...  Friggin $80 cables....).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T14:49:52.390" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26863" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:07:46.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is okay to sleep in a car as long as the weather permits, I have done that a couple times myself once in a rest area and other in a Walmart. I was travelling from Minneapolis to Washington DC but the weather was great, I had a comforter and a sleeping bag and slept in the rear seat, but at walmart, you will have to contact the staff and take permission from them (some Walmart's do not allow you to sleep in their parking lots, but there are only 20% that do not allow you to sleep in your car). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precaution to take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At a rest area, you will have to make sure that there are people in trucks and are parking for the night ( Truckers are good guys). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to run your car roll all the windows down a little bit, but what are you gonna get out of it, if you are burning fuel, better find a cheap motel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If at a Walmart make sure you are below a light post or as close as possible to the store's entrance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the space is properly ventilated and lock your car, though your are inside the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay in well lit areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links that might help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walmart parking lots where you cannot park: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allstays.com/c/walmart-locations-noparking.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.allstays.com/c/walmart-locations-noparking.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Another one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmartlocator.com/no-park-walmarts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.walmartlocator.com/no-park-walmarts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Guide to Car-Camping – in Walmart Parking Lots: &lt;a href=&quot;http://themorningfresh.com/2012/06/29/a-guide-to-car-camping-in-walmart-parking-lots/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://themorningfresh.com/2012/06/29/a-guide-to-car-camping-in-walmart-parking-lots/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of people out there who made their car as a home.&#xA;Watch for videos on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck and hope this helps you out and stay safe.&#xA;Don't forget to share your experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="15419" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T15:17:43.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:17:43.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26853" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:16:39.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your codes the only major one is the Camshaft Sensor, replace that and give it a try. Other than that nothing else from the above codes can stall your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR would throw a check engine light but the engine itself would not stop cause of this.&#xA;The heater control units are for the comfort of the passenger but not for the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cam position sensor is not that expensive from what I remember I think it was around 20 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:16:39.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:22:21.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided that the bad connection because of oxidation isn't because the wire wasn't clamped properly, as the mating surfaces would be somehow protected if clamped tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not want to solder to the clamp itself, depending on the clamp material or your ability to solder. If you do do it properly without having solder spreading down the wire (and there are methods for that) might be ok. I wouldn't solder onto the clamp body in the pic, however. If I really had to do it I'd solder the wire to a small plate of copper, with holes for the bolts, that will end being sandwiched between the body and the strap. You would end with the wire both soldered and clamped and the area around the bolts will be covered by the strap protecting it from oxidation.&#xA;Some people will say that car connections are all crimped for a reason but, from what i hear, in some areas they do solder connections that are exposed to elements because of presence of salt etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However soldering seems a bit drastic to me, before going that way you might want to consider other usual manners of protection for the wire where it joins the clamps, a layer of white lithium grease or silicon grease (after having cleaned, clamped the wire and connected to the battery) will protect from oxidation without any other work necessary. A cap would keep most of the dirt out of the way. Other manner of protection like a shrink tube big enough to catch the connection to the wire or stuff like liquid tape might work to protect it but you cant see if there is oxidation on the wire without breaking all apart. Grease instead can be wiped off and reapplied without problem. Some don't like grease saying that it could make its way within the connection and use anti-corrosion products created for that, they are often a paste like product of various compositions, some with metallic particles in it to not give the insulating effect the grease would have if it goes between the connection, and are made to protect terminals and clamps from corrosion. I have heard debates between people about conductive grease vs non conductive with supporting arguments on both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point is: there are products made to protect the wire from oxidation on the market, and that might be simpler than soldering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T15:44:48.040" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:44:48.040" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26858" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:35:53.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;McPherson Strut presumably? What condition is the rest of the suspension in? Bushes etc? How stiff is it supposed to be? Bear in mind that a family car like that will be more wallowy and bouncy than a small sports car or something...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideal would be to compare it to a known-good 626, but I suspect that you don't have another car to compare with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:35:53.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:42:58.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for misfires then you best shot would be is to hook up a scanner tool, start the car and go through the statistics in the scanner which shows you about the misfires and a lot more data, buy a good scanner which costs about $80 but don't go with a cheap $20 one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The misfires should be less than or equal to 5 in every 1000 if not then you might have to change the coil pack or fuel injector in the particular cylinder. most of the times the spark plug or the coil pack would be bad and these are not expensive when compared to a fuel injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:42:58.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2016-03-04T15:58:00.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Subaru, but have worked in the family car sales business and for Ford and Gulf Oil.&#xA;I follow car stuff closely and have friends in the business.&#xA;I can confidently say that just about any engine will go 200,000 miles without difficulty, as long as you warm it up properly and change the oil.&#xA;I keep cars for 15-18 years and it is always the body that goes first.&#xA;Subarus are as close to bulletproof as you can get.&#xA;So just have car checked out, read and do all maintenence in the manual, and you will be good for years.&#xA;My WRX is 2004 and has needed just normal maintenance.&#xA;Enjoy, and with used cars, it is CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION!&#xA;It is worth paying more for a better car, and buy one under 60,000 miles.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15495" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T15:58:00.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T19:04:05.587" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda civic has been having trouble starting. When I turn my key all the way clockwise to start the car, it make a clicking noise near the starter. All the lights come on, but it doesn't start the engine. My battery is brand new and it works when I jump start it. Sounds like the alternator but the battery was all charged up when I checked it. In the past, it wouldn't start for five or ten minutes after turning it off, then it would start. Does anyone know what might be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15499" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:57:38.897" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T22:49:49.410" Title="Honda civic '97 not starting" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26878" CreationDate="2016-03-04T19:18:59.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the click sound you are hearing is the starter solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be a new battery but if it does not have enough power it cannot crank a starter motor. If your car is starting by jump starting it, the battery is the culprit for now. The reasons could be the battery might be weak or bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I would recommend is, jump start the vehicle, check your voltage across the battery terminals it should be about 14 Volts. If it less than 14 volts and does not go up as you rev the engine then the alternator might be bad. If the motor is running, under any case the voltage should not be around 12 volts if it is, then the alternator might be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 14 volts at the battery when the engine is running, then you might have to replace the battery, as it is a new one you can get a replacement or some sort of help if it is under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other stuff you can do to make sure the battery is okay:&#xA;1. Get the battery load tested.&#xA;2. Check if there is any drain on the battery when the car is not running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="15419" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T19:37:58.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T19:37:58.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T19:36:01.690" Score="4" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;1997 Ford F350, 7.3, 2 wheel drive. PCM part number F6TF-12A650-AYG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK the question is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how to diagnose the PCM without codes due to the battery being dead?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it out of the truck and was hoping to see diagrams or schematics for use of a multimeter. I looked at all the fuses, sensors, etc. I need to know how to do this because the PCM is to expensive to get a diagnosis from places and/or I have to R&amp;amp;R the part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That still may not be the issue. If I have to put it back in or anything I will do it. Please help. I did hook it up to a diagnosis reader, and tried a few times to erase codes that where not there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it gave me an error trying to erase the codes. I also tried this test on 4 other vehicles with this computer and it would erase codes even though there weren't any, without error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14581" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T00:20:54.457" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T02:41:35.773" Title="PCM Bench Testing" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|electronic-control-module|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26878" CreationDate="2016-03-04T19:40:28.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brushes in the starter may be worn down.  That may explain why it was getting temperamental starting before it stopped working all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be the worn contacts in the starter solenoid.  There is a question on this site about diagnosing a faulty starter.  I will look for it, unless someone else finds it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T19:40:28.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26878" CreationDate="2016-03-04T19:52:32.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had exactly the same problem on my 2003 car. It was a bad starter, replaced it with a new one and kept the old as spare once I reconditioned it. Do a bit of diagnosing as it could be just the wiring at the starter or bad ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T20:05:35.280" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T20:05:35.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3174" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:04:06.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had same problem with my vauxhall vectra c. 2008 with 1.8 petrol sri engine. always after fueling. no matter what fuel or where it was bought.and it was just after an engine rebuild with faulty camshaft timing oil valves that made her throw and bend a valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i also ended up with 3 engine codes. cruise control. engine trim and enigine misfire code.&#xA;I changed all parts that I could think of. plugs. oil. fuel filter etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i finally cleaned the mass air flow sensor gently with a dry tooth brush. (between the air box and throttle). (do not recommend this, far better to get a new for for £25 from dealers)&#xA;and as if by magic. all codes and fueling problem went away.&#xA;fingers crossed it stays that way :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15501" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T20:04:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:54:38.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest you won't get far with a DVOM. While vini_i's answer is correct you can't do this while the car is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be looking into buying a digital storage oscilloscope if you want to test primary and secondary ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uScope is a good beginners scope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nETtK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nETtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with a low amp probe for testing the primary ignition coil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCahe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCahe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a secondary ignition probe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M1GUb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M1GUb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to set the scope to the scale of the probe most low amp probes are something like 1mV/A or 10mV/A. And clamp around the power wire to the coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a known good primary coil on a 05 VW Touareg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oq7eh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oq7eh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an example of a known good secondary reading off a 05 Ford Taurus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hu4N4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hu4N4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a good article on ignition diagnostics.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92689/Waveform-diagnostics-Ignition-diagnostics-you-will-actually-use?Page=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92689/Waveform-diagnostics-Ignition-diagnostics-you-will-actually-use?Page=5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:18:17.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:18:17.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26887" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:56:20.883" Score="17" ViewCount="34149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do realize that it stands for revolutions per minute, but what are the revolving pieces that are measured?  Assuming it is the crankshaft, is RPM calculated by the crank shaft sensor, or by some other means? Why do some old, carbureted cars not have a tachometer--is it for the lack of the ECU and the sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a scenario:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A 1,000cc 4-stroke engine with 4 cylinders is running at 1k RPM. How many times does each cylinder fire per second?  How can this be calculated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does the piston provide force to the crank shaft with each stroke, even during the exhaust stroke?   Does the engine create equal torque with each stroke of the piston, or do each of the four strokes apply different amounts of power?  If so, why don't the RPMs fluctuate with each different stroke of a cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T23:41:33.603" LastActivityDate="2018-04-25T04:22:44.903" Title="What mechanical revolution is measured in &quot;RPM&quot;?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|rpm|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26886" CreationDate="2016-03-04T21:28:12.703" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's start from the same picture so we're on the same page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQmiP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQmiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simplified Engine layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These engines are four stroke engines, which means the piston goes up and down a total of 4 times, twice up, and twice down for each cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of course I do realize it stands for revolutions per minute, but revolutions of what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you stated later, it's revolutions of the crank shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I assume the crank shaft, how is it calculated, is it by the crank shaft sensor? Why do some old cars that runs with a carburetor don't have the RPM meter is it for the lack of the ECU and the sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how it's measured, there are both mechanical and electrical ways to measure it. Older cars didn't have a tachometer just because they were not popular, and to limit the cost. Many older cars did have tachometers though, just mechanically driven. I'm not 100% sure where the pickoff was for this, but if I had to bet it was just a gear off the crankshaft that gets reduced to a needle movement on the dash. In the same way that the speedometer was usually a gear in the transmission that did the same thing just for wheel speed.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As for the electrical methods, yes, it's just a sensor talking to the ECU which sends the right PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal to a gauge in the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also assuming a 1000 cc big 4 stroke engine with 4 cylinders running at 1k RPM how many times are each cylinder firing per second or how can that be calculated, also does the piston &quot;revolve&quot; the crank shaft with each stroke even at the exhaust stroke with the same torque or is it different at the firing stroke, if so how is the RPM not constantly going up and down with each different stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lay this out, lets look at how many times the shaft rotates with each stroke. From the diagram you can see that a full up and down path of the piston makes for one revolution of the crankshaft. That means in a four stroke engine the shaft rotates twice (two revolutions) for every four stroke cycle, which means one power stoke for every two revolutions of the crank. So, if the crank is turning 1000 times per minute, that would be 500 power strokes (firing of the spark plug) on each cylinder in that one minute. Since there are 4 cylinders, there would be 2000 sparks in that one minute across the whole engine. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And no, the piston does not produce the same torque on every stroke. In fact it only produces torque on the power stroke. The other three it's just along for the ride.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As for why RPM does not vary constantly, the plugs don't all fire at once. The power strokes are spread out so that during the rotation of the crank the power is divided amongst the 4 cylinders so one of them is almost always producing power and turning the crank. In addition, the flywheel has a lot of mass, and tends to smooth out the roughness of each individual cylinder firing during it's power stroke. Otherwise it would be a much rougher cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that covers it all, if anyone finds something I missed, or if I managed to get something wrong, please yell and I'll just edit it so we have this right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T19:18:26.517" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T19:18:26.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T22:35:08.377" Score="5" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a civic from a couple of girls who had previously said that they had a bit of trouble with the car overheating, but it never broke down on them. It had 120k miles on it and they were asking 2k, my mechanic noticed a leak from the radiator and assumed that was the cause of the overheating, so I bought it for 1800 and went to replacing the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant was very gunky in the reservoir and the engine, so we flushed it out, we replaced everything but the water pump, and it started overheating again. The people we bought it from had a piece of copper in the temp sensor so the fan was always running, and when we checked the thermostat the day after the fail safe was triggered and the valve was wide open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't losing any coolant, asides from when we bled it, and there was still air coming out after many attempts to bleed it and it was never a constant stream. I'm looking for some advice on what could be going on here, any replies will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15504" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T16:07:58.117" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T16:07:58.117" Title="1995 Honda Civic lx overheating" Tags="|engine|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26888" CreationDate="2016-03-04T23:30:50.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a guess? From your description I'd bet it has a blown head gasket. The only way to tell if this is so is to do a sniffer test (search for &quot;block tester&quot;) at the radiator. There are testers which, when in contact with hydrocarbons, change color from blue to green to yellow. Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5KRI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5KRI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way the fluid will change color is in the presence of hydrocarbons (like I said), so if it changes at all, you know there is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T23:30:50.633" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26891" CreationDate="2016-03-05T01:32:03.810" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I damaged my Toyota Aygo Spice Edition, on the left rocker panel because I had a flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the 14&amp;quot; alloy wheels (6-spoke) is damaged and needs to be replaced with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be viable to replace these? Any suggestions acceptable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my English (from Cyprus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPQXn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xxaeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15505" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2023-05-13T14:51:13.187" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T14:51:13.187" Title="Toyota aygo damage repair" Tags="|toyota|tires|repair|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26890" CreationDate="2016-03-05T03:13:38.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you can get the rocker panel fixed, if you really worry about the looks of the car, the dent I see is not gonna hurt the performance though, so it is up to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am in your shoes, I would not even worry about it, cause the pinch weld looks great so you can jack the car up without a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T03:13:38.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2016-03-05T07:32:37.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having this issue and spent some time and even blew a fuze trying to rig a solution before I figured out a really stupidly easy one. If you have an inch of electrical tape, that is all you need! The trick is to twist it so that it is firm like a twig. Then use it as a wedge by simply pressing it to your plugin and gently but firmly push into the outlet. You are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15508" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T07:32:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T08:29:01.997" Score="4" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 96 mustang GT with a 4.6 ltr V8, the car has not been severely overheated, but did overheat once a few months prior to this issue when the heater hose fitting popped out of the Carbon Fiber (Plastic) Intake Manifold.  I repaired this issue.  A few months later out of the blue the engine oil light comes on, So I pull over and chk the oil, its way low  &amp;amp; barely showing on the dip stick.  I add 2.5 qrts of oil and bring it up to the full mark and drive home - no problems.  Keep in mind, the engine runs good and strong and no overheating issues.  the very next day - i take the car for a Job interview and on the way there, the oil light comes on again just as I arrive, so I pop the hood and immediately notice the milky oil coming out of my radiator over flow tank, chk the oil and its nearly empty again.  I know what the possible causes are, what is baffling me is that I have never seen a blown HD put oil in the coolant, its always been just opposite with the coolant in the oil.  in this case there is no coolant in the oil and the re is no milky residue in the valve covers. additionally - the engine still runs Tits, no hesitation or misfires, etc.  Are there any other possible reasons for oil to be pumping into my coolant other then Damaged Head or Block &amp;amp;/or Blown Head gasket..??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15509" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T11:15:18.843" Title="Oil in my coolant &amp; no longer in my oil pan?" Tags="|ford|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26912" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:00:22.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to connect OBD2 GPS device in my cars. OBD2 connector support limited OBD protocols. I can't find which protocols present in my cars. So i just want to know what protocol is present in my cars? &#xA;Below are cars i want to connect my OBD2 device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;isuzu Mu7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maruti baleno 2015 model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volkwagen passat 2013 model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toyoto Corola altis 1.8G 2009&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15510" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T23:44:07.973" Title="Car OBD protocol?" Tags="|obd-ii|tracker|gps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:03:05.013" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;306 Vivante turbo diesel won't start. It has new glow plugs and relay, exhaust is leaking badly in first section and the turbo is on the way out, but turns good thought it would at least fire up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things should I be checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15511" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T04:32:40.620" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T04:32:40.620" Title="306 Peugeot Vivante 1.9 diesel won't start – I have changed glow plugs and relay" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|diesel|peugeot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26859" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:20:35.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;are you running an amplifies for the subs?  if yes are you using a capacitor in line with the power to the amp and have you check the voltage to the amps signal on wire?  As the deck also receives power from a direct source of the battery to retain memory. the deck could be damaged (possibly also directly affected by moisture) and unless you are disconnecting one of the battery terminals it is possible that a damaged deck is still providing voltage to the signal wire of the amp hense causing a voltage drain regardless that the face plate of the Deck is attached or not.  just a thought and a possibility to your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15509" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T09:20:35.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26743" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:35:28.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an alignment issue.  The camber is most likely off causing the tires to wear excessively on the inside edge.  Take the car in and have the alignment done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15509" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T09:35:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26893" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:35:31.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has an engine oil cooler that is cooled by the engine coolant, then it's possible that it is leaking there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leak must be after the oil pump for the oil to be at a higher pressure than the coolant, for the oil to be pushed into the coolant and not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably guess at the head gasket leaking following the overheating incident, but it is worth looking for easier fixes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T11:23:29.503" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T11:23:29.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26903" CreationDate="2016-03-05T11:36:50.043" Score="6" ViewCount="43274" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Peugeot Speedfight 2 is having trouble starting when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took down the carburetor and cleaned it. The spark plug is also pretty new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that automatic choke can be faulty but I don't know how would I test that. It is a choke that has an extending needle. I've read up on how choke operates but found only examples of air restricting butterfly valve chokes. So I'm not sure what the needle does in automatic choke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding the needle extends and closes the hole when the engine is warm. So am I right in that I can remove the choke, try to start the scooter without it and it should start cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15513" LastActivityDate="2023-01-04T18:42:50.590" Title="Testing automatic choke on a scooter" Tags="|carburetor|scooter|choke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26901" CreationDate="2016-03-05T13:54:01.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How the choke works&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choke of  a scooter consists of a dedicated choke nozzle in the fuel reservoir and two narrow drillings leading to the venturi (the pipe where the air goes through):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUwIE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUwIE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the motor cranks and the choke is active, the slight underpressure in the venturi sucks in extra fuel through this drillings. When the choke is inactive, a piston (golden) moves down and closes the drillings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, the choke looks like this, and you can easily recognize the piston, which is the brass barrel with the needle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFQOxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFQOxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the black choke body, there is a small cavity filled with a liquid like oil, and an electric heating element. When power is applied, the oil heats up and expands slowly, pushing down the piston. When power is removed, the oil slowly cools down and retracts the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choke is directly connected to the alternator, i.e. it only gets power when the motor is running. It takes &lt;em&gt;several&lt;/em&gt; minutes for the piston to move from the &quot;fully retracted&quot; to the &quot;fully extended&quot; position, and the difference is really small, may be 5mm (1/5&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to test it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be clear now. Simply check if the piston moves out within maybe 10min when power is applied. But since it takes so long and the piston moves a little only, you should definitely &lt;em&gt;measure&lt;/em&gt; the position with a caliper or similar. And also check if the piston is retracted after an hour of cool-down or so.&#xA;Ah, and as first test, check if the choke gets warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply power, either take a ride or connect the choke directly to the battery. But note that the choke draws about 1A, which can drain a small 7 not fully charged / weak scooter battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choke typically fails in two modes: Either the piston does not retract (choke always inactive)  or it does not extend (choke always active).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And of course, it's also possible it doesn't get power...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Further more, it is rarely possible that the piston does move, but not enough. Then you would need to know the positions for a working choke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Driving without choke&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the choke works fine, disconnecting the cable will make it &quot;always active&quot;. The motor will start fine, but consume more gas and build up more soot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the choke is simply removed, the motor will draw additional air from above instead of additional fuel, making the mixture leaner. This makes it even more difficult to start and may cause damage due to the lean combustion. And the additional air didn't go through the filter. Instead, it comes from the dirty, muddy and wet place where the carburetor typically sits...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, if the choke failed in the &quot;inactive&quot;-position, you can remove it, put your finger on the opening, (try to) start, and then quickly plug the choke in again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the scooter should be driven without the choke, not only the opening should be sealed, but also the entire bore in which the piston moves. This disables the choke and makes it harder to start the motor. But the mixture is fine when the motor is warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T15:05:22.240" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T15:05:22.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26853" CreationDate="2016-03-05T13:59:40.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0031 &amp;amp; P0037 are both heater circuit low voltage codes. While the heating elements may be bad, I'd check wiring first. Both sensors should be getting power from a fuse and a control signal from the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the P0342 this is another circuit low voltage code. You should be checking for 5V reference from the PCM, low reference/ground from the PCM and signal to the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the camshaft sensors are used to correlate the camshaft and crankshaft and don't directly affect the ignition system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the EGR valve were stuck open it could cause the car to stall at idle. Though I'm not sure if the car actually has one or not you'd have to visually confirm. I think your car has 2 camshaft sensors and uses valve timing to perform EGR functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T14:08:58.173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T14:08:58.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13008" CreationDate="2016-03-05T14:40:55.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All DOT3 &amp;amp; DOT4 fluid is synthetic...ie it is man made and does not have a petroleum base. DOT3 &amp;amp; 4 can safely be mixed. HOWEVER DOT5 (or 5.1) brake fluid is silicone based and must NEVER be mixed with DOT3 or 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15517" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T14:40:55.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26880" CreationDate="2016-03-05T20:51:52.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very hard to tease out what your actual problem is. Here is what I've figured out. Your truck won't start and you have no communication with the PCM. This makes you think that the PCM is bad. How am i doing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a PCM can't be diagnosed outside the vehicle without a big complex setup that simulates all of the vehicle it should be hooked up to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the list of things that need checked before condemning a PCM is a mile long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the PCM connected to the vehicle every singe power and ground needs verified directly at the PCM (there will be more than one of each). You would be surprised how often a broken wire leaves you walking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the PCM connected to the vehicle every critical signal that the PCM needs to start needs to be verified. I would start by verifying the communication lines from the DLC to the PCM have good continuity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the output signals need verified. Is the PCM trying to control the injectors or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T20:51:52.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26911" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:00:24.830" Score="4" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2000 W202 Mercedes C240. It's got a V-shaped, six cylinder gasoline engine. On the fuel cap, it says RON 95 EN 228. And in the manual also it says &quot;Use only Premium Unleaded petrol&quot;. I sometimes want to try RON 98 as it's imported from Europe and everybody praises it. But I don't know whether it would harm the engine. Does the manual mean at &quot;at least&quot; or it means what it says- &quot;only, no lower, no higher&quot;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4555" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T22:23:26.097" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:23:26.097" Title="Is it fine to use higher octane gasoline than what is recommended on the fuel cap sticker" Tags="|mercedes-benz|gasoline|octane|c240|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27419" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:18:33.853" Score="5" ViewCount="11361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mitsubishi Galant 2003, 2.4L engine with 234k miles on it.  When I drive it the temperature gauge gets up to exactly midway, until exactly 30 minutes.  Then it goes up to about 2/3 or 3/4 of the way up and then fluctuates between that point and midway after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What started all this was that I was seeing the temperature gauge going up and found a small radiator leak and small leaks in my radiator hoses.  So I replaced the radiator, coolant temperature sensor, radiator hoses, and the thermostat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I've had the car (I got it with 48k on it) I've never seen the temperature gauge read over the midway mark, until the leak, so I'm assuming it's not normal, even though it's not overheating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also checked and the coolant level is up all the time and I do hear the radiator fans working.  I also &quot;burped&quot; the system twice to ensure there isn't any air pocket causing this, but like I said, the one odd thing is it starts right at 30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what to check for next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I've run a vacuum gauge test and it was perfect, no fluctuations and it's within the normal range. No coolant leaks whatsoever, but I'm checking it once a week on the coolant level.  No smoke from the tailpipe that I've observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm not saying it's not a blown head gasket, but if it is, it has to be a very small leak.  I'll check more today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is still there, but the temperature gauge range is about half of the fluctuations I had seen and now it's returning back to the normal temperature on the gauge or very close.  When the car is heating up, both fans are running flat out and then the temperature goes down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did basic voltage/resistance tests on the radiator fan controller and everything was within specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T01:06:11.433" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T13:13:15.097" Title="Problem with Temperature rising after 30 minutes of driving?" Tags="|mitsubishi|temperature|cooling|galant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26908" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:23:11.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means &quot;at least&quot;. You will not cause any damage by using the higher octane fuel. The reason for the RON 95 rating in the first place, this is the lowest octane rating you can run before you might start hearing pinging or pre-ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:23:11.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26894" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:38:09.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the answer myself, but I may have a way for you to figure it out. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdtester.com/obd2_protocols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which talks about what is needed for each of the protocols. You may be able to reverse engineer what you have to figure it out. Here's what it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;OBD-II Protocols&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An OBD2 compliant vehicle can use any of the five communication protocols: SAE J1850 PWM, SAE J1850 VPW, ISO9141-2, ISO14230-4 (KWP2000), and since 2003 also ISO 15765-4/SAE J2480. ELM-USB and OBDTester support all of them.&#xA;  Some websites say they support 9 or even more protocols. This is because they mistakenly count protocol variants as separate communication protocols. If you add 4 variants of CAN-BUS to our list, you are on 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please note that some models are equipped with SAE J1962 connector, but these cars are NOT OBD2 compliant. Typical examples of such cars are some early VW/Skoda/Seat models (European versions only), Ford cars with EEC-IV using Ford DCL protocol (e.g. Ford Escort), Nissan EU/Asian models (using Nissan DDL protocol), or some European Hyundai models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;ISO15765-4 (CAN-BUS)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most modern protocol, mandatory for all 2008+ vehicles sold in the US. Uses pins 6 and 14 (referenced to signal gound), communication is differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four variants of ISO15765 exist. They differ only in identifier length and bus speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID,500 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID,500 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID,250 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID,250 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fiat/Alfa/Lancia used also fault-tolerant CAN-BUS at 50 kbaud, not compatible with OBD2 standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;ISO14230-4 (KWP2000)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Very common protocol for 2003+ vehicles using ISO9141 K-Line. Uses pin 7.&#xA;  Two variants of ISO14230-4 exist. They differ only in method of communication initialization. All use 10400 bits per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 14230-4 KWP (5 baud init,10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ISO 14230-4 KWP (fast init,10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;ISO9141-2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Older protocol used mostly on European vehicles between 2000 and 2004. Uses pins 7 and optionally 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;SAE J1850 VPW&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Diagnostic bus used mostly on GM vehicles. Uses pin 1, communication speed is 10.4 kB/sec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;SAE J1850 PWM&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Diagnostic bus/protocol used mostly on Ford. Uses pins 1 and 2, communication signal is differential and it's rate is 41.6kB/sec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determining protocol from OBD-2 pinout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Standard        Pin 2       Pin 6       Pin 7       Pin 10      Pin 14      Pin 15&#xA;J1850 PWM       must have   -           -           must have   -           -&#xA;J1850 VPW       must have   -           -           -           -           -&#xA;ISO9141/14230   -           -           must have   -           -           optional&#xA;ISO15765 (CAN)  -           must have   -           -           must have   -&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0hdx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0hdx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please note that other pins may also be fitted. They usually connecto to other (non-engine) ECUs or provide various signals. Generic OBD2 tools are not capable of &quot;talking&quot; to other ECUs than engine. For diagnosis of other control units such as ABS, airbag, audio or body modules you need vendor-specific software such as FiCOM (Fiat/Alfa/Lancia), FoCOM (Ford/Mazda) or HiCOM (Hyundai/Kia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Other non-OBD2 protocols&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Almost every car uses also vendor-specific diagnostic protocols such as KWP2000, KW1281, VWTP, KW72, KW82, which are used for &quot;native&quot; diagnostics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:38:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36602" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:55:08.100" Score="3" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a 2007 Subaru Outback (with an NA EJ25 motor, 140k miles, automatic) that is making a noise when he eases off the accelerator pedal. It seems to happen when the engine hits over 3k RPM and then releases the pedal. The noise happens when he's both driving and parked. But at idle, the engine sounds just fine. The sound seems to come from the underside of the engine, near the exhaust, but I can't pinpoint it too well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the heat shields around the cat and exhaust manifold and none of them are loose. I gave everything a good shake and it all feels solid. There is minimal to almost no rust around the exhaust too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the noise: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Yd8Qwt7Gqzc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/Yd8Qwt7Gqzc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T02:20:31.923" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:34:25.787" Title="Subaru Outback with EJ25 making noise when easing off the accelerator" Tags="|subaru|rattle|outback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19076" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:56:34.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;GM Provides a flow chart to help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR The car probably doesn't think you're in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ignition Key Cannot Be Inserted, Rotated, or Removed from the Ignition&#xA;  Lock Cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Action    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ensure the transmission shift lever is in the PARK position and the &#xA;  steering column is NOT in the locked position.&#xA;  Verify the ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition lock cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be removed from the ignition lock cylinder?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 4  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Verify the ignition key cannot be turned to the OFF position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be turned to the OFF position?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 3  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Verify the ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition lock&#xA;  cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be removed from the ignition lock cylinder?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 7  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Verify the ignition key cannot be fully inserted and rotated without&#xA;  sticking in any position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be fully inserted into the ignition lock cylinder&#xA;  and be rotated without sticking in any position?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 7  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Inspect for an incorrect, worn, or damaged ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the ignition key incorrect, worn, or damaged?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 10     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Inspect the ignition key. Clean the entire middle groove area of the&#xA;  side milled ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the cleaned key be fully inserted into the ignition lock cylinder&#xA;  and be rotated without sticking in any position?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Verify the adjustment of the shift control cable. Refer to Range&#xA;  Selector Lever Cable Adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be turned to the OFF position and be removed?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attempt to override the ignition lock solenoid on the ignition and&#xA;  start switch housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be turned to the OFF position and be removed?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 9  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Inspect the electrical system for improper operation. Refer to&#xA;  Ignition Can/Cannot Be Turned Off with Transmission in Any Gear and&#xA;  Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the ignition key be turned to the OFF position and be removed?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replace the ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you complete the repair?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;11)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replace the floor shifter. Refer to Gearshift Control Lever&#xA;  Replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you complete the repair?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replace the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Ignition Lock Cylinder&#xA;  Replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you complete the repair?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to Step 13     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;13)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Operate the system in order to verify the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you correct the condition?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;System OK     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:56:34.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30247" CreationDate="2016-03-05T23:17:41.597" Score="3" ViewCount="4596" Body="&lt;p&gt;My aunt has a 2004 Hyundai Sonata. It's been running rough for quite a while (few weeks, months?) now - it seemed to coincide with her daughter hitting a huge pothole/bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She drove about 40 miles with no real problems, then let it run for a few minutes while sitting there. She went back out to the car and started it and it dies almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts right up when you turn the key, runs for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. It feels/sounds like you just turned the key off (i.e. it doesn't stumble and then die, it just dies right out when it dies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, if you hold they key &lt;em&gt;past&lt;/em&gt; the &quot;on&quot; position (it doesn't have to be fully in the start position) it will continue to run. I kept it there for several seconds, could rev the engine, and it all seemed to run. It still ran rough while it was running, but it &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause the problem, and worst case scenario would it damage anything if she drove with the key turned? I'm sure it would be difficult to drive like that, but we're currently at the hospital and she's trying to get home (about 40 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(other information: it does leak/burn some oil, the check engine light is always on and last check over a year ago reported the O2 sensor, and some electronic thing was replace in the engine a couple of years ago. Nobody remembers exactly what that thing was, but it prevented the car from starting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T20:31:06.307" Title="2004 Hyundai Sonata starts and then dies" Tags="|starting|hyundai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T03:17:41.667" Score="5" ViewCount="3005" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 96 Camry started locking and unlocking itself sometimes while driving and sometimes when not driving I will go to get into my unlocked car just to find it lock.  It didn't really bother me til last week when it locked itself and my key would not work.  I don't know how to break in to a car so I was stranded for 4 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally just now, I thought I would go try again, and it was unlocked lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the meantime I've wedged folded up cigarette packaging paper into the lock inside to hopefully prevent it from locking me out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this, I am clueless...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15524" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T16:08:42.043" Title="1996 Toyota Camry unlocks and locks itself" Tags="|electrical|toyota|camry|power-windows|fuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26916" CreationDate="2016-03-06T04:05:16.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try and take the key off any keychain that could be pulling on  it. Heavy keys are the usual culprit here. After that I would check the wiring, but a mechanic may be better suited to that kind of diagnostic. You may need to replace the key and cylinder if they are damaged, though a locksmith may be able to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15526" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T04:05:16.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T04:07:40.363" Score="2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1983 Mazda 323, and it won't start. The battery died from the radiator fan running over night, so I charged the battery all the way and it still won't start up. It sounds like it really wants to start, but it won't even bump start. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15525" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T04:59:28.910" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T04:59:28.910" Title="1983 Mazda 323 won't start" Tags="|starting|mazda|mazda-323f|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T07:18:37.947" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring and when I turn my car off the radio still glows with the time and CD that's playing, is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15527" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T14:01:37.673" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T14:06:19.907" Title="Radio lights are on" Tags="|audio|lights|chrysler|sebring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26916" CreationDate="2016-03-06T08:57:39.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can be pretty confident in saying that it must be worn/dirty ignition switch contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to remove the cowl around the steering column to get access to the rear of the ignition switch barrel.  From there you can usually remove the switch mechanism off the rear of the ignition switch.  There is also usually a connector that allows you to completely remove the switch from the wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here, you could either spray some switch cleaner inside it, disassemble the switch and clean it, or replace the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery negative lead before starting this procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T09:09:55.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T09:09:55.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T10:55:09.953" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed a leaking thermostat housing and thermostat on my 2l petrol 2000 mk2 mondeo. Now I find that at idle it is fine, I can leave it idling and the fan cuts in an out, and the temp stays about the quarter mark where is usually is... all is well. Driving in backstreets at about 50k's it is fine.  However if I'm driving at 80k's or above for any more than a few minutes, it will overheat when I come to a stop. I have bled the air out of the system, and performed an engine leak down test, and a pressure test on the radiator, which showed no leaks to or from the cooling system. Going to flush the radiator tonight, any words of wisdom on other things to check while trying to nut this one out as I've never had a car that only overheats upon stopping after travelling at a high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15528" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T22:19:45.733" Title="2000 mondeo overheating" Tags="|overheating|mondeo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26923" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:24:20.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're confident that the coolant lines are properly bled and the fan is running as it should, overheating under high loads is usually indicative of insufficient coolant flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have the water pump checked out to make sure that it is still capable of delivering the required flow rate at higher loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T11:24:20.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T11:30:49.700" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes they come back on in a few minutes but sometimes it's hours or maybe a day and they will all start working again at same time. Other things like radio, CD player, cruise, horn, wipers, door locks are not affected at all. One mechanic told me it was probably just a fuse or relay. Another said it was the ignition switch and would cost approx. $375 (WOW) Does anyone have any ideas about this? I sure would like it to be the fuse or relay since they said it would be really cheap to fix. Any help appreciated. Kitty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15529" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T13:23:53.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T13:23:53.230" Title="On my '99 Grand Am the electric windows, A/C, dash gauges, speedometer stop working sometimes" Tags="|ac|power|pontiac|gauges|grand-am|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26910" CreationDate="2016-03-06T13:30:13.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope that you have not got a blown head gasket .Bubbling radiator water when cap is off and the engine is supposed to be cold .Odd smelling white smoke coming from the exhaust due to water and antifreeze getting into the cylinder[s] and burning in a very unclean way .Fiat puntos have a reputation for this .I would also check the water pump .Modern water pumps appear to do lower milages than thier 1930s counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T13:30:13.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36586" CreationDate="2016-03-06T13:55:15.743" Score="9" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT March 9, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took the car to a guy who specializes in ATX gears, and he felt that it's not a tranny problem.  Got a second opinion from a Chevy tech who concurred.  So due to that and the negative fuel trim at higher rpm's I'm leaning either toward a bad / plug or maybe an injector that's sticking open.  This &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rsGTeWayqIU?t=7m33s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video from EricTheCarGuy&lt;/a&gt; describes really well what I'm hearing on hard acceleration.  However, as there is no safety issue and no pending issue of catastrophic failure, it seems that my neighbor probably won't pursue this for now, although if the problem gets worse it might get picked up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Post&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a look at a neighbor's car ( 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 4Cyl ATX ) and among other problems, it makes this horrible vibratory kind of noise under hard acceleration from a stop or slow speed.  It's fine under slow steady acceleration and once the car is already moving above maybe 30 kph no matter how hard you accelerate.  I can also induce the noise by lightly accelerating in a traffic circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing coming to my mind is the torque converter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d2Vd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d2Vd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from my ATSG manual for a different trany, but I think it's relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problems I found were a slight wobble when going to WOT in park and then rapidly letting off the gas ( all engine mounts have been replaced recently, more than once ), the thermostat is either stuck open or has been removed as the car never gets above about 60*C, oil leaking from the valve cover gasket has filled up the spark plug holes, and Long Term Fuel Trim goes to about -11% when revving the engine at about 2500 rpm.  There is also a weird PID shown by OBDWiz SEA 0x15 Short Term Fuel Trim stuck at 99.22% which is in addition to the regular STFT PID 0x06 which looks normal staying just slightly negative.  I've seen allot of posts on the net which also have this same 0x15 PID stuck at the exact same value, which is really strange, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/26931/7132&quot;&gt;but that's a different question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;In short, am I in the right direction for this noise?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T06:04:31.490" Title="Severe Noise Under Acceleration from a Stop or Slow Speed" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|noise|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26921" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:06:19.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If when you open the door and the radio shuts off, then this is perfectly normal. Most cars since the early '90 (maybe before that?) have what's called a Body Control Module (BCM - manufacturers may call it something else, but they all serve the same purpose). The BCM will keep some of the accessories on for a period of time after you shut the vehicle off. My Silverado keeps the radio on for about 15 minutes, as an example. When you open the vehicle door, this tells the BCM to shut things down. It is a convenience item for your vehicle. If this is how your vehicle is behaving, then there's no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T14:06:19.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26932" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:15:19.877" Score="7" ViewCount="2164" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought some redex &quot;shots&quot; for my 2003 Opel Agila 1.2 petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just fill the tank and then pour it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How often should I use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T16:46:03.793" Title="How do I use redex? How often should I use it?" Tags="|fuel-additives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26942" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:29:11.853" Score="4" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taking a look at a neighbor's car, and noticed this PID stuck at 99.22% This is in addition to the regular STFT PID 0x06 which is staying fairly close to zero most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this other STFT PID and why do I see it stuck at this 99.22 number on lots of posts all over the internet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle information: 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 4Cyl ATX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBDII Software: OBDWiz SEA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T14:33:17.237" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T15:32:51.643" Title="What is SAE 0x15 Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 Sensor 2?" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26930" CreationDate="2016-03-06T14:30:44.407" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.holtsauto.com/redex/products/petrol-one-shot-boot-pack/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Redex website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply pour Redex directly into the tank in the same way you add fuel. The bottles have been designed with a long neck which inserts like a fuel pump to make pouring easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How often should I use it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redex can be used as often as you like to keep your engine running well. We recommend using a shot in each tank, but you can also use it whenever you notice your MPG dropping or between fill ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T16:46:03.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26918" CreationDate="2016-03-06T15:49:50.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try unplugging each lock switch one at a time(or all at once) and test to see if a switch is shorting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car has an aftermarket security system you could try removing it from the door lock system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire loom that run into the doors can also be suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably have a locksmith look at your key and lock cylinder so that you don't get locked out of your car again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T15:49:50.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T16:30:10.657" Score="11" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Saturn! 06 with a 2.2l engine. Don't remember the mileage but greater than 100k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car came in with a complaint of a P0101. Confirmed code and on the test drive car lacked power like the exhaust was plugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pressure tests OK @ roughly 60psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAF VE around 70%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tune up parts in fair condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All fluids OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine vacuum with B1S1 O2S still in place is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ydm1q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ydm1q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine vacuum with B1S1 O2S removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk3Il.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk3Il.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't get a picture of the exhaust back pressure reading but it was normal @ 3000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second road test with the B1S1 O2S confirmed exhaust back pressure readings and ruled out a plugged converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to have a known good MAF sensor from a parts car so I bolted it up just to see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I recommend removing the valve covers and verifying engine timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it's been a while and I haven't heard back from the customer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point it may just be idle speculation, but... Anyone ever have a similar car roll through? Anything I missed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the lack of a P0068 or a P0106 it's hard to say what the problem is without verifying cam timing. Though at this point I'm fairly certain cam timing is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I wish I had done was to get a running compression test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really wanted to see what was wrong with this piece and it still kind of bugs me. But if you're not getting paid what can you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T11:58:30.350" Title="06 Saturn Ion 2 2.2l P0101" Tags="|saturn|p0101|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T18:22:28.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 95 Ford Windstar just had the radiator replaced. After driving there is bubbling in the overflow res. , engine is not overheating and water seems cool to touch in reservoir. I can smell antifreeze under the hood but do not see any leaks. I have used a block sealer in this motor two years ago. Is it possible that there is another crack in the block or could this be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15535" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T18:38:09.770" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T14:37:44.713" Title="Overflow reservoir bubbles after driving not overheating" Tags="|ford|coolant|radiator|windstar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26939" CreationDate="2016-03-06T18:30:49.413" Score="36" ViewCount="13227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people say they wash the outside car every week as it makes the paint nice etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any benefits of washing the outside of my car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I really need to wash the exterior of my car every week?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does it damage my car if I don't wash it for a month or two?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like a general answer, but the specific car is a 2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I clean the interior ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="44488" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T06:03:11.457" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T06:03:11.457" Title="Do I really need to wash the outside of my car?" Tags="|paint|cleaning|body|detailing|carwash|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:57:48.160" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new thermostat and heat gauge switch, however, my car is overheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I fill it with water, it sucks the water and I have to refill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I switch the car off it over heats but when I drive the water light flicks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15536" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T14:40:52.323" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T14:40:52.323" Title="City golf 1.3 overheating badly" Tags="|engine|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-07-26T15:00:29.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:59:39.257" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: How much did you pay for that shirt?  How often do you wash it?  Why would you bother?  Shirts just get dirty anyway.  Can't you get another shirt?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any benefits of washing the outside of my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you live in an area without salt, birds, tree sap, pollution, abrasive sand or road tar?  Do you also drive around with brake pads that don't emit corrosive dust?  If so, then you might be okay to avoid washing.  If not, then yes, there are plenty of benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to wash the exterior of my car every week?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it damage my car if I don't wash it for a month or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's practical for your situation?  If you can't wash the car for a while because of life circumstances, the point is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in the Northeast USA, car washing is actually seriously important.  For example, salt is a year-round fact of life here in Rhode Island.  In the winter, it's used to treat the roads during snowy weather.  In the summer, it's fun to go to the coast (admittedly, Rhode Island is basically all coast but still...) where the wind is picking up all that salt spray and misting it all over the car.  Even better, seagulls drop blobs of acidic smears of grossness all over that deliciously salted car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will try to argue that clearcoat and paint will protect the metal of the car.  While that is technically true for a while, neither is sorcery.  Any sort of corrosive or abrasive will eventually wear through that protection and start rusting.  As a practical example, that gravel shot into the hood of your car by the truck in front of you may have chipped the hood down to the metal.  It almost certainly took off the clear coat and a layer of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sort of washing will get all that nastiness away from the car with the side benefit of making it look nicer.  And remember, anything is better than nothing: I spray out the underside of my car while I'm washing it.  I'm not using special undercarriage spray or anything like that, just a straight up garden hose.  The startling amount of sand and salt that pours out from under the car could be used to make little castles in my driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a convenient time to just walk around the vehicle and check for any issues.  Is that piece of trim coming loose?  How long has that screw been missing?  Here's a rock chip: I better get some touch-up paint into that right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above is bounded by reality.  In the winters here, sometimes it's just too cold to wash the car for months at a time.  Some of those times, washing the car is effectively moot anyway since all that dirt is getting hidden under layers of snow....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro tip&lt;/strong&gt;: a clean car is much more pleasant to work on. Even if you don't handle your own maintenance, the techs who do will be grateful that they aren't working in a gross muddy rust pit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:24:56.187" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T03:41:52.297" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just picked up my dad's old 1969 yamaha 100 l5t that's been collecting dust for the past 35-40 years. Anyone know much about these bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get this thing running again and most likely swap something a little faster into the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what people have swapped into this frame or what the motor mounts share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15542" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T03:41:52.297" Title="Wealth of info? 69 Yamaha 100 L5T" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|motor-mounts|modification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2016-03-07T21:12:54.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26931" CreationDate="2016-03-07T07:08:00.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generic global OBD2 provided this PID so that the short term fuel mixture percentage that is being corrected by a post catalyst mixture sensor would be presented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OEM's have much proprietary science invested in fuel control strategy. Particularly the use of the post catalyst sensor for controlling average lambda. Every one I have looked at (hundreds) all read 99.x. This I take to mean that they all received an exemption from CARB so that the data is not required to be displayed. If it were displayed, it would help the competition understand when and how much the rear sensor is used thus revealing much about the strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no practical use for this data in everyday testing even if the data was correct. There are at least two other ways to verify sensor operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T15:32:51.643" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T15:32:51.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T07:28:43.307" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason many people wash their car every week is to keep it looking nice and from the good old days of bad paint and no rust protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, paints are significantly better and stand up to some serious abuse, and the cars are much better rust proofed (galvanised etc...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The washing your shirt analogy is a little unfair as with a dirty shirt, you smell. A dirty car is just a fact of life... More like hiking boots, they're gonna get dirty at some point if you use them as intended. And likewise, to keep them in good condition, give them a good scrub every now and then... But like hiking boots, if you're using them every day then it's easier and more practical to just kick the clods of mud off and start walking again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonably modern car will be fine only being washed every month or so, if not longer if you don't mind a dirty car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preference is after the winter months, and there's no more salt on the road, jet wash all the wheel arches, suspension uprights, springs and everywhere you can get to underneath to really get it clean under there, and get all the salt out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two small kids, and being self-employed there's not enough time to wash the car every week (let alone every month!), and the interior gets a beating too... But it's a tool to be used, and hence will be getting dirty whilst being used. I've had nice cars, which are nice to keep clean and tidy but then sometimes you just need a workhorse - if the latter, then clean it as often as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add: I live in the UK where they use tons of salt throughout the winter (we all drive on summer tyres all year round!), so corrosion is a huge problem on older cars - especially 80's and early 90's cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastEditorUserId="3097" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T08:35:30.017" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T08:35:30.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T10:05:14.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wash my car before winter every year before it gets too cold.  I give it a thorough detailing and then I apply 2 coats of hard wax to make sure I did a good job.   This is my idea of giving the body some protection and it seems to work.  After all it is a significant financial investment for most of us.  You'll notice the water not sticking to the paint work at all for some time.&#xA;I don't do it out of aesthetics or anything like that since consuming water for such things bothers me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15547" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T10:05:14.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26893" CreationDate="2016-03-07T11:15:18.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;check if the engine temperature is normal,secondly find out if the vehicle has hard start in the morning, thirdly find out the level of engine oil if is getting low. Automatically the there is a leakage between the water pass-way and oil pas way on the cylinder head . or the cylinder head is warped/ bent you may need new gasket and refacing both cylinder head and engine block.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15549" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T11:15:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26910" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:33:07.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a handful of coolant/overheating related issues here, so you can search around.  Since you've replaced the radiator, it is unlikely there is a clog.  Thermostat replaced, so that should be good also.  Here are a couple things to look at/verify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure you have fixed all leaks.  Clean under the hood with engine degreaser, then after it overheats, look for signs of coolant spraying.  If you can, look under the hood, with the engine running, while it is overheating.  I've had leaks that wouldn't show up until the engine was starting to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water pump could also be the cause of the failure.  I had a similar issue, and the impeller on the water pump had cracked, and was not flowing enough coolant.  It was worse when the engine was idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could also be the sign of a bad head gasket.  A couple other signs are: exhaust smells like coolant, bubbling in the radiator while the engine is running, one spark plug significantly cleaner than the others, and/or low compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions for you.  Are you loosing coolant?  What are your driving habits city or highway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:33:07.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T14:18:03.390" Score="4" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ABS light came on and stays on. The front end only makes a noise when braking for the first time but is fine stopping every other time until I put it in park and shut it off. I will run into a store and when i take off it will do the same thing but only for the first stop. It makes a winding noise with alittle clunking also. I can feel the clunking in the brake petal while i stop for that 1st time. What could that be? Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15554" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T18:58:37.713" Title="ABS light is on" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26947" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:14:45.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time the ABS light came on for me in a car it was caused by one of the ABS sensors failing but I've also had it happen when the voltage regulator on my bike failed and put 15V through all the electrics. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage on the battery when the engine is running, it should be around 14.6V and definitely between 14V and 15V.&#xA;If the battery voltage is normal when the engine is running, you'll need a fault code reader to determine what's wrong, any mechanic that specialises in your car make should have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T15:14:45.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T16:08:37.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the obvious benefit that a clean car looks nicer, washing your car will also remove all sorts of stuff that, on the long run, will harm its exterior: Salt attracts moisture, which speeds up corrosion (which would not be much of an issue with a galvanized body and intact paint and clearcoat, but a 13 year-old car is likely to have some faults in that corrosion protection). Bird excrements, insects, sap from trees and other kinds of dirt may be chemically aggressive and damage your paint – the longer the exposure, the greater the harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no hard-and-fast rule how often you should wash your car – it depends on the kind and quantity of dirt your car is exposed to. A car that is used every day in winter conditions and is usually parked outside next to a busy road will obviously need more care than a car that sits in the garage for most of the time and only ever gets taken out on weekends and only in sunny weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, washing is not the whole story. Exposure to sunlight will eventually render the clearcoat porous (on some older, poorly maintained cars you can actually see it peel off), causing moisture and dirt to &quot;stick&quot;. Waxing your car every now and then will restore the original properties of the clearcoat. It will stay water-repellent and slightly elastic, which prevents it from cracking and peeling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15323" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T16:08:37.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T17:53:18.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that if you ask &quot;Are there any benefits of washing the outside of my car?&quot; you are not referring to the obvious cosmetic benefits. So I assume that the overall question is essentially summed up by the sub-question &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does it damage my car if I don't wash it for a month or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not much fact based evidence for an answer, with one exception: The &lt;strong&gt;corrosive effects of salt&lt;/strong&gt; in combination with moisture on steel.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/031-046.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This pdf&lt;/a&gt; from the Transport Research Board links the combination of road salt and acid rain to vehicle corrosion in the 40 years after WW2. Mostly in the 1960s, road salt usage and acid rain increased to form a corrosive mixture which forced the auto industry to respond by improving body design and materials. In the 1980s this resulted in cars which are far less prone to corrosion than those from the 1960s and 70s, if the paper can be believed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main sources for salt. Obviously in coastal areas sea water spray transports salt, together with moisture, through the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In places with snow and ice deicing salt is an even greater danger. It is picked up from the street surface by tires (your own or others') and transformed into a salt spray around busy streets. The salt concentration is higher than with sea water spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common sense dictates that removing the salt prevents corrosion and that a protective coating keeps the salt from contacting the surface in the first place. Note that the places most in need for cleaning and coating are not the ones with the greatest cosmetic effect, because they mostly face down: The underbody including pipes and mechanical elements, the interior of the fenders, and perhaps the lower door edges and similar painted surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My common sense lets me think that with ongoing salt exposure the washing alone will have little effect on a car which is used often: the next ride will re-salt the clean surfaces, essentially un-doing the effort. It's the &lt;strong&gt;waxing/coating which has the long-lasting effect&lt;/strong&gt;. There is an consensus that waxing should be done at least twice a year. I would think that a seasonal cleaning when the salt period is over is a good idea as well, coating or not. &amp;mdash;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an area without salt plus moisture the benefits of car cleaning are much less clear. Reliable, substantiated information is hard to come by. One of the problems with web sites making recommendations is that most of them fall in one of two categories: Amateurs, often forums; or professionals with an economic interest in attracting customers and selling car care products. Some sound more reasonable than others, but none of them cites any reference; one must suspect it's all anecdotal evidence at best, or hearsay and copying from elsewhere.&amp;mdash;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotal evidence suggests that in a desert car bodies last long no matter what you do to them. (Image: A Mexican pulling you out of the sand with his '72 Chevy.) If you live in Salt Lake City washing may actually add the moisture to the salt which starts the corrosion; who knows. I'd be interested to hear from people living there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have an Opel, I checked their (German) web site for advice about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opel.de/besitzer/checks-inspektionen-reparaturen/inspektionen-wartung/wartung-pflegetipps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;care and maintenance&lt;/a&gt;. They are very brief and just say &quot;a regular car wash protects paint and the car in general from rust damage&quot;. They do not recommend a specific frequency. Interestingly they warn about damage from bad car washes: &quot;Spend a few Euros more and patronize a modern facility; it's worth it.&quot; That is an interesting point: Car washing done wrong can actually &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; your paint. Increasing the frequency will then just damage it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15122" LastEditorUserId="15122" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T08:52:08.127" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T08:52:08.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26947" CreationDate="2016-03-07T18:45:07.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds it could be one of two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easier fix&lt;/strong&gt; - PIT-5171 - Debris is preventing the speed sensors from reporting correctly. To diagnose this problem, remove the fuse for the ABS/TCS system and see if the problem persists. If that eliminates the problem, reconnect the fuse and clean the speed sensors with a toothbrush and an electronics cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harder fix&lt;/strong&gt; - PIC-5428 - If removing the fuse does not solve the problem, it will likely be PIC-5428, a faulty harness that is causing the speed sensors to report different speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chevroletproblems.com/tsbs/Equinox/2010/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TSB References:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PIT-5171: THE BRAKE, TRACTION, OR STABILITY LIGHTS ARE ON BECAUSE OF DEBRIS STUCK ON THE WHEEL SPEED SENSOR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PIC-5428: A COMMUNICATION FAULT, REGARDING SERVICE STABILITY TRACTION AND ABS REAR WHEEL SPEED DTC OR CHASSIS EXPANSION BUS, WHICH IS RELATED TO AN INTERNAL WIRE BREAK INSIDE WIRE HARNESS INSULATION TO X411 CONNECTOR. MODELS 2010-2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T18:58:37.713" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T18:58:37.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26955" CreationDate="2016-03-07T19:15:40.713" Score="1" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to install a pair of snow/winter tires on rear axle(because they are about to wear out). The front axle has new regular tires (not winter/snow).&#xA;Both will be of same spec (205/45R17)&#xA;I'm wondering and want to know the possible handling/other problems I could experience . my car is front wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T23:33:34.053" Title="problems with different pair of tires on front , rear axle for passenger car" Tags="|tires|front-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T19:26:53.657" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave in NJ, and have been driving my volvo for 15 years now. I only wash it once or twice a year when I get free carwash coupons. Not a speck of rust on the exterior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washing it after Noreasters makes little sense since I would have to drive back from a carwash through the same horrendously dirty roads. Washing it after the winter makes even less sense - spring rains do the same job free and without harmful chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I see around me, people have similar attitude, and there are very few rusty cars around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not make a meaningful comparison with modern humans though - they are not exposed to rains as much as the cars do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15560" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:26:53.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26953" CreationDate="2016-03-07T20:30:47.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: Don't do it, but if you do, be vigilant about rotating the tires based on the road conditions. Mechanically it will not cause any problems, as there is nothing linking the front and rear axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always try to run the same tires front and rear. If you only have 2 winter and 2 all season tires, the rear tires should always have more traction. So, if there's snow/ice on the road, put the winter tires on the back. If the roads are clear, or just wet, put the winter tires on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You always want the rear wheels to have more traction because it will decrease your chances of spinning out. If the front tires lose traction before the rear tires, you are in an 'understeer' condition, which is relatively safe as you can still see what you're traveling toward and attempt to avoid any obstacle, straighten the wheels, and stop the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rear wheels lose traction before the front tires, the back end of the car will begin to swing out. This is called an 'oversteer' condition. Depending on the situation, this is much more dangerous, as you may end up traveling backwards with little control of the vehicle, and no idea what you're heading toward (trying to steer becomes frantic and confusing when you're going backwards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance of encountering an 'oversteer' condition can be exacerbated by trying to slow down in the middle of the corner. Letting off the throttle, or tapping the brakes during a turn will shift weight from the rear axle to the front, causing the front tires to gain traction and the rear tires to decrease traction. Again, if you have higher traction tires on the rear axle, the worst that can happen is your low traction front tires begin to slide. If your high traction tires are on the front axle, the loss of traction for the already low traction rear axle could cause sudden, or  'snap oversteer' (aka lift-off oversteer). This problem is EVEN FURTHER exacerbated in FWD (front-wheel drive) vehicles, where most of the weight from the drivetrain is already over the front axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T23:33:34.053" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T23:33:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26923" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:19:45.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I gave it a flush and changed the water pump and thermostat. The old water pump looked fine, but the thermostat (only a few months old) failed at test. Couldn't get it to overheat last night, so it would seem at this point that the problem is solved. Cheers for the advices :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15528" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T22:19:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26971" CreationDate="2016-03-07T22:54:31.787" Score="3" ViewCount="4549" Body="&lt;p&gt;First up the motorcycle in question is a Skyteam V-Retro 250 (V-Raptor in some countries). On the way home last night I noticed that my tail lights weren't working so I bought a new bulb like I had done before and when I opened the tail light housing a few screws fell out and a wire (presumably earth)  and after I changed the light bulb non of the electrics are powering up when I turn the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't sure what to connect the earth wire to and tried a number of places and just from looking at the old light bulb I am thinking that it was not the reason for the rear light not working as it looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I kick start the bike all the lights apart from the tail work but as soon as I kill the engine none of the electrics work, I can't turn on lights or use the electrical starter etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a look at the battery terminals and cleaned them and they look in order but as much as I don't mind tinkering with the bike I don't know anything about wiring or the electrical bits so not even sure where to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be very much appreciated!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT electrical diagram attached&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5f8e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5f8e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ST250 electrical diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15563" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T23:53:10.617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T21:07:35.327" Title="Motorbike has no power, but kick start works" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T23:24:17.223" Score="1" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mercedes e320 has 186,000 miles on it. it is a 1996, I just purchased the vehicle so I do not know the history. every 15 or 20 miles or so, engine coolant level light comes on and I have to put coolant in reservoir. what is this problem due to? how can it be fixed, without incurring a steep cost.. what are the major issues it could cause should it not be fixed immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15565" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T02:33:27.687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:28:38.713" Title="I have a 1996 Mercedes e320 I constantly have to put coolant in the reservoir coolant levels always low" Tags="|coolant|radiator|mercedes-benz|e320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-09T08:19:40.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-07T23:24:54.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Subaru Forester and have had it since it was about a year old. I can probably count the number of times I have washed it on one hand. They wash it when the oil gets changed at the shop but I don't drive much so that isn't very often either. It's pretty dry here but we get lots of snow in winter. They use gravel but not salt on the roads. I just recently had to polish the clear plastic over one headlight because it made the light dim in comparison to the other side that had that piece replaced. &#xA;Other than that it doesn't seem to have mattered. I'm sure I've been judged for it at some point but I don't care. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15564" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T23:24:54.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26962" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flywheel serves four main purposes (in most vehicles): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides mass for rotational inertia to keep the engine in motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is specifically weighted to provide balance for the crankshaft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a means to get the engine started (starter ring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides a connection for power transfer between the engine and transmission (along with the clutch it also provides a means to interrupt the power flow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another such item, like unto a flywheel is a flexplate. This is a thin plate which connects the engine to a torque converter in automatic transmissions. While it provides the starting, connection, and balance of a flywheel, it alone does not have enough mass to provide the rotational inertia. In this case, the torque converter provides this for the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26963" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" Score="0" Body="A **flywheel** provides mass for rotational inertia to keep the engine in motion" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:08:58.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26807" CreationDate="2016-03-08T00:54:05.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did more research on this and the consensus seems to be that Tacoma's electronics detect the additional current (of the accessory), and drop the voltage automatically as some sort of safety/precaution mechanism. No alerts/lights/errors as a result of this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up using an add-a-circuit fuse tap to tap a switched fuse in the engine's fuse block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15465" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T00:54:05.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T01:12:54.330" Score="3" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a used 2007 Infititi G35 with 87K miles on it. I'm determined to take great care of it. I live on a muddy, bumppy road that leads to my house major pot holes. I rent the home and I'm trying to get the landlord to lay down some gravel. Until that happens what's the best way to take care of it, tips for cleaning, any other major concerns I should be aware of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15567" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:52:54.100" Title="New Car - Tips for living on a muddy/bumpy road" Tags="|maintenance|cleaning|rust|infiniti|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26974" CreationDate="2016-03-08T01:58:35.683" Score="9" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do some electrical mods like adding a push/pull switch to my truck' tailgate to wire into my door ajar light to let me know if it is open along with splicing an electrical tailgate lock into the door auto lock mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this I need to test for which wires are active during these certain things. I do not have a lot of experience with electrical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a full multimeter with piercing probes, or is it enough to get a non-contact low voltage test light to test the individual wires in the harness for when the lock is pressed etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15568" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:24:14.410" Title="Testing specific wires in harness cable" Tags="|electrical|wiring|tools|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T03:50:12.090" Score="3" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 ford Taurus.  e brake light on dash stays on.  removed, checked e brake pedal switch with volt / ohm meter and it works.  found and pulled the fluid sensor under master cylinder.  pulled pigtail, light went out.  I ordered the sensor, installed it and light is back on.  I found a very very slight leak in wheel cylinder in right rear drum drum brake.  replaced, bled, light still on.  only symptom is that the brake pedal, while applying constant, medium to heavy pressure, 'creeps down' noticeably but slowly, but doesn't reach the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there are no leaks anywhere and fluid level is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question one: can that sensor sense problems within the master cylinder itself, i.e., some sort of bleeding back when brake is applied?  If so I'll probably just bite the bullet and install a master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question two: is that sensor reading something like a float inside the fluid reservoir?  could the float(s) in there be defective, i.e., sinking causing a false read by the sensor?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question three: can you take the reservoir off of the master cylinder without removing the cylinder itself?  I'd really like to do that to see wtf that sensor is reading.  seems impossible that a plastic stick under a plastic tub can read fluid levels like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question four: one of the rotors has a little scoring but nothing deep; brakes don't pull at all and pads have &gt;&gt; 50% left. can sensor read some sort of differential level in the master cylinder reservoir?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question five: anybody know how to check the sensor - maybe the new one is defective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll check the pads / rotors, bleed everything again, and replace the master cylinder if that doesn't work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or insight in diagnosing this would be appreciated.  thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15571" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T03:50:12.090" Title="2002 Ford Taurus E brake light on dash stays on" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26936" CreationDate="2016-03-08T07:51:49.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work from home, so my car stays in the garage for long periods of time.  It doesn't get much mud or salt spray, and after it's washed, it looks pretty fresh for a month or two.  It's often 6-months to a year between washings, and it never really looks terribly dirty (If it does get really dirty, I will wash it).  However, a couple of years back, when I went to finally wash it, some bird droppings had been there for a few months, and had eaten through the paintwork, leaving whitish patches.  Now, I still don't wash my car a lot, but if I notice any droppings, tree sap, etc on it, I will spot clean them off right away.  Any leaf build up at the windscreen or boot openings should also not be ignored, so it doesn't hold moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you care about long-term damage, even if the car is pretty clean, some things still need attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15577" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T07:51:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26957" CreationDate="2016-03-08T08:14:43.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From looking at your wiring diagram, you have clearly blown your main 15A fuse.  This explains why nothing is working from the battery, but once the engine is running, your magneto is powering all the electrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disconnected wire must have shorted out and blown the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the tail light, the green wire is the 'earth' wire.  The brown wire is the supply to the tail light bulb.  The Green/Yellow is the brake light supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T09:15:03.633" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:15:03.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:18:36.113" Score="6" ViewCount="4627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mazda 3 sport diesel on a 07 plate it has 133000 on clock, I bought this car a couple of months ago and have noticed a lack of power in the lower gears. it struggles to overtake unless I have some momentum going but when I do get some speed up it seems ok. I have had it in a garage who have tried to do a forced re-gen but could not overide the code on the diagnostics machine, there is no dpf light showing and I am now thinking do I get rid. I do a 90 mile roundtrip to work regularly and find it very frustrating when sitting behind a slower vehicled and cant overtake unless I have a very clear road ahead, any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15579" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:43:02.827" Title="lack of acceleration mazda 3 sport" Tags="|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26966" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:24:14.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is quite easy, but you need to do yourself a favor and get a factory wiring diagram. It will save you hours of frustration and confusion. The factory wiring diagrams will tell you exactly when the circuits are active and when they aren't. On top of that they will tell you the colors and sometimes the current flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really don't want to hook up a tail light to a fan circuit (Personal experience) =P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that, you'll need some thin wire probes or insulation piercing probes. They come with the Power Probe 3, and fluke also sells them. A decent multi-meter should help you track down the wires you want to use. If you decide that you want to use your own method to pierce the wires, just remember to wrap them in high temp electrical tape. When insulation gets compromised the entire wire inside it can corrode. It's a real pain to try and figure that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to sort this out the oldschool way you can use the multi-meter, probes, and a test light. Essentially what you would do is attach your test light or multi-meter to to ground, activate the circuit and test each wire individually. &lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt; I don't recommend doing this. As I said before, if you put a lock mechanism on a fan circuit that might intermittently kick on, you'll have some serious issues. You could possibly even put it on an EVAP circuit, which would probably mess with the EVAP without realizing it and every time you put gas in your car, your tailgate would drop. I would get wiring diagrams, there are so many wires in a vehicles it's really hard to do it the oldschool way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eautorepair.net/&quot;&gt;http://www.eautorepair.net/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;That website carries a lot of factory wiring diagrams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I answered your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:24:14.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26965" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:34:13.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Genesis, a Miata and a Tiburon. They all seem to hold up well. We live in a VERY rural area with dirt roads and it rains a lot. What I've found is that you should wash the cars every 2 - 3 days. This keeps the pollen, dirt and mold off of it so you don't prematurely destroy the paintjob. I also have gotten into the habit of hosing down my brakes after I part it at home so that dirt and sediment doesn't stick to the rotors. Don't do that if they are hot, it will warp the rotors. I usually wait an hour and just casually hose them down. I would assume that could cause my pads to wear quicker with rock and debris on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive VERY slowly. I never get passed 5MPH on my dirt road. Some people like to speed through it, but you're going to rattle the car apart eventually. Dirt roads and potholes can cut the life of suspension components in half. I've heard some people say they spray the undercarriage, but I don't do that. When I work on my (If you do too), I always try to wipe down everything that I can to keep it clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just the things I do, but I hope it was helpful! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:34:13.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26973" CreationDate="2016-03-08T10:02:31.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel filter could be dirty, which would be restricting the fuel flow required for acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T10:02:31.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26973" CreationDate="2016-03-08T11:33:21.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DPF is a very likely problem if you lose large amounts of power, though if you do 90 miles daily then DPF should have no problems regenerating without intervention. There are other problems that could cause a significant lack of power on diesels (if there is no check engine light on):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A really dirty air filter that needs replacing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clogged fuel filter (already mentioned);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A blocked EGR valve that needs cleaning;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A turbocharger fault, like a stuck wastegate, faulty boost sensor or mechanical failure;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged exhaust causing backpressure, most likely at the catalytic converter;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faulty/dirty MAP/MAF which fails to calculate required fuel, should be accompanied by poor idle and/or clouds of black smoke out of the exhaust;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faulty temperature sensor that forces the engine to run in &quot;cold&quot; conditions, the gauge should give this away if it does not read a separate sensor;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stuck thermostat that does not allow reaching operating temperature, also should be given away by low temperature;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged injectors, usually accompanied by problems such as poor idle and difficult starting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faulty fuel pump, usually accompanied by difficult starting and stalling;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other symptoms, like black smoke, poor idle, stuck temperature gauge, stalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T08:43:02.827" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:43:02.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26935" CreationDate="2016-03-08T14:22:46.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kindly check out if the your vehicle is using high presser reservoir container or low accumulated pressure,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if your vehicle is using high pressure accumulated container, please check the container breather cup or hose maybe the loading release valve is sucked. &#xA;In this case you have to change the radiator cup and reservoir cup.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle is using low accumulated pressure reservoir container then it has no breather on reservoir cup, or no radiator cup. It means you have a crack on reservoir hose, or on reservoir itself, or the clips are not well tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case replace reservoir container or pipe or tighten the clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMPORTANT INFORMATION,&#xA;We cant suggest on thermostat: if thermostat is faulty we will have engine overheating, and if there is clogging we will still have engine overheating.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15549" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T14:37:44.713" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T14:37:44.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26965" CreationDate="2016-03-08T16:18:37.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congrats on the purchase! I have an '06 6mt sedan :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to frequent rinsing, make sure you still have some kind of plastic/metal shielding under the radiator/engine. My Gs prev owner had oil changes done at a quicky-lube type of place that tore off the OEM plastic undertray and never put it back on. The lack of shielding left my engine bay vulnerable to moisture and road debris, which increased accessory belt wear, mucked up my air filter, coated everything under the hood in a nasty layer of grime, decreased cooling abilities, and increased aerodynamic drag. Debris on the accessory belt also caused embarrassing squeaks and squeals that went away after I installed a replacement panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple vendors sell Al replacements, I recommend the G35driver forums for parts and advice! If you want a little DIY project, and you happen to work or have friends that work in a metal shop you can usually get scrap Al sheeting for pretty cheap. I used .092 (13 gauge) 5052 sheet Al for mine, and crafted it using basic power tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T17:52:54.100" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:52:54.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T16:44:21.183" Score="7" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 05 Equinox, and while idling it sometimes overheats. We have to continously add coolant every week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was the only problem, I'd fix it, but, there's other issues as well, and combined cost of repair is about $3000 (which it is not worth, esp at 150k miles / 250 k km). I'm wondering how long it will take before the Engine goes.  As well, is there anything I can do in the meantime to extend the life of this  vehicle in the meantime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15582" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T00:16:43.060" Title="Coolant in engine... Head gasket going" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|head-gasket|equinox|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26980" CreationDate="2016-03-08T17:05:13.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a confirmation that the head gasket is going bad. There is a product that states that it has the capability to fix head gasket leaks, you can give that a try(I have never used it personally). It is called Steel Seal, there are a lot of videos on the You tube about how to use this product, give it a try and write a followup review so we too will know about it. I am pretty sure that this not going to be a permanent fix but might push the head gasket replacement a little further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T17:05:13.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T18:36:32.473" Score="0" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm probably leaning towards the Dodge Journey. I've test driven a few vehicles and I've noticed a high pitched squeel from the engine when I press the accelerator. I've read online that it might just be a belt issue. Is this a common issue with these vehicles and what else should I be looking for before I buy the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The vehicle range I'm looking at is 2007-2010 Dodge Journeys. The squeeling noise only seems to be happening on acceleration.. what concerns me is that this seems to be happening on a number of Journeys. I looked at YouTube and this seems to be fairly close to the sound I'm hearing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVszZ_7ZIjY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVszZ_7ZIjY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15582" LastEditorUserId="15582" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T01:25:00.577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:15:05.173" Title="Looking at buying a used Dodge Journey or Minivan - squeeling sound while pressing gas?" Tags="|noise|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T19:34:23.813" Score="3" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2009 FJ cruiser and I can see the rear differential lock motor on the rear differential but I don't have any switch inside to activate it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to add a switch to be able to use it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15586" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T19:47:26.150" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:03:29.617" Title="Fj cruiser rear diff lock" Tags="|toyota|differential|fjcruiser|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26958" CreationDate="2016-03-08T20:28:38.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing is to check your oil. If it looks like a latte then you've got a head gasket leak and it may already be too late. If it looks OK then first thing to do is check under the car after it's parked. If it's using coolant that quickly then there should be a puddle. If not, be sure to check the carpet in the passenger seat footwell, it could be a heater core leak. It's also possibly a leaky water pump relief valve. I'd recommend taking it to either a mechanic or a radiator shop and ask them to do a pressure test. This should make it easy to find the leak without overheating the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:28:38.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T20:42:27.857" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Camaro and I would like to know what's going on with my car. It is currently experiencing of loss of water pressure and oil pressure at the same time, and then it starts knocking as if its about to cut off. What are the possible causes of these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15589" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T20:50:56.790" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:50:56.790" Title="Low water pressure and oil pressure at the same time" Tags="|oil|cooling-system|camaro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T14:07:45.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T20:56:37.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Honda Civic ex sedan and recently the power door lock stopped working. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors and when I turn my engine on and start driving I can use the power door lock, although sometimes it only works to unlock the doors. This problem recently popped out of the blue shortly after I developed stereo and amp power failure problems (still not receiving power atm even though i replaced all fuses and checked all the grounds). Is there any correlation between the 2 power failures? Any suggestions for either problem? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15590" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T22:07:19.500" Title="Power door lock failure when engine is off" Tags="|power|locks|door|audio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26992" CreationDate="2016-03-08T21:19:50.310" Score="4" ViewCount="2550" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear headrests can be raised only to a certain point. Pushing in the adjustment button on the driver side rail does not allow for them to be pulled completely out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4389" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T21:45:06.803" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T16:24:02.437" Title="How are the rear headrests in a 2010 Ford Fusion removed?" Tags="|ford|interior|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26993" CreationDate="2016-03-08T21:20:36.700" Score="8" ViewCount="1189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Harbor Freight (I know, I know) air compressor. It's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61454.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;21 gallon, 2 1/2 HP model&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when the tank is empty it starts fine, and pressurizes the tank to where it should be. Once I start to use an air tool and the tank pressure drops below the trip point, the compressor will strain, not move, and then pop the breaker on the outlet strip. There is nothing else on that strip, it's just a way to extend the length of the power cord a short distance. The trip is slow, so the breaker in the strip is being strained, but not badly. If I empty the tank, it will immediately start up when I flip the power switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a valve in the top of the cylinder head, that seems to be there to allow the air trapped in the cylinder head to escape when the compressor first starts up. This allows the motor to get up to speed before trying to make it do any work. This seems to function correctly when the tank is empty. It lets the first 20 seconds of air out, then closes and the tank pressurizes. Can I assume it should do the same thing when the tank is just passed the refill pressure? I have not tested that it has, but I will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing, the freezer in the garage is on the same circuit. I have not tested a correlation between failing to start and the freezer running at the same time. How sensitive to voltage drops is a compressor this size? It's wired for 117AC by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, I thought it might be the compressor, so I returned the original one I had (same make and model) and the new one does it to. It must be something in my environment at home. I figure power, or temperature. It's been cold in the garage this season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I followed the instructions on oiling. I put the right kind of oil in it, ran it through break-in, plus another 30 minutes or so, and then changed the oil again. Nothing suspicious in the oil that I could see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is driving me nuts. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T20:30:58.703" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T20:30:58.703" Title="Why does my air compressor fail to start when the tank is partially full?" Tags="|tools|air-compressor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26679" CreationDate="2016-03-08T21:30:45.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a TC guru, so I'll refer you to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19047/675&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; for the different failure modes. What I can provide is the engineering theory behind vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any rotating mass will suffer from vibration if there is a rotary mass imbalance about the axis of rotation. If you have a table fan, try to tape a coin to one of the blades and you should be able to visibly notice the vibrations when the fan turns on. This is also the reason why wheels have to be balanced with weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a torque converter experiences some type of failure that results in rotary imbalance (a failed weld or chipped blade come to mind), the vibrations in the drivetrain may be bad enough that you can feel them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T21:30:45.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26989" CreationDate="2016-03-08T21:32:00.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out there is a pinhole on the passenger side rail/rod (see photo below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise the headrest as high as it will go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The headrest must then be lowered &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; until it clicks into the topmost groove.  (This step is crucial)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insert a paperclip like object into the passenger side pinhole &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; press in the button on the other rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While holding in both the pinhole and button, raise the headrest up to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CITj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2010 Fusion rear headrest removal pinhole&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:44:39.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26990" CreationDate="2016-03-08T21:44:32.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is you are over taxing the power strip. You need to power your compressor &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; from the wall socket, or on an extension cord which can handle 15A or more (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diybyexample.info/2010/07/what-size-extension-cord-do-i-need/&quot;&gt;12 gauge or better below 50' length&lt;/a&gt;). Your compressor is rated at 14A, which usually means &lt;em&gt;running Amps&lt;/em&gt;. When it first starts it will draw more amperage. When the tank is empty, it draws less Amps right off the bat because the pump is not working against pressure in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to get it off the strip because you are killing your compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T21:44:32.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:23:00.947" Score="5" ViewCount="49065" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year my A/C was fixed. Then winter came. Then I had to buy a new car battery and so I went to a mechanic[1] who I paid to replace the battery with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is: When you replace a car battery, would anything in the A/C system be touched?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because the A/C was working very good before winter and before the car battery replacement and now the A/C does not work at all (air temperature feels the same as the outside air temperature). The car battery is the only work under the hood that has happened in between the A/C working and now the A/C is not working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic was one of those large mega-corp chains of auto-replace/auto-care. They did the repair late in the day after 4pm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T18:26:56.883" Title="When you replace a car battery, would anything in the A/C system be touched?" Tags="|battery|ac|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26994" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:26:59.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing to do with the air conditioning would need to be moved or disconnected etc when replacing the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a refrigerant leak could occur at any time due to a number of reasons, with the most frequent being corrosion of the condenser at the front of the vehicle.  Loss of refrigerant would cause total failure of A/C operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T22:26:59.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T22:45:14.450" Score="6" ViewCount="6146" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 50cc Chinese Scooter GY6 QMB139 hard start when cold, anything below 65 degrees F. &#xA;Last spring when I got it I had nothing but trouble, fixed the following and it ran perfect all summer until it got cold. 4 stroke.&#xA;Cleaned carb (many times)&#xA;bypassed the fuel petcock with a shutoff&#xA;the screws on the top of carb that cover the diaphram were too short that caused air, fixed that with longer screws&#xA;replaced the intake manifold, (had a tear)&#xA;I always use high octane gas with a cap of that blue enzyme stuff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the scooter is warmed up it runs great but I need to stay on the throttle for 20 minutes cause it will stall at idle as well. Today was 55 degrees out, when I got it running good I went to the store, 15 minutes it was not running, started and ran good for 1/2 mile then bogged down and stalled at my 1st light. Takes 20 seconds to start and it takes right off but will do the same until its warm. Usually I drive it 2 miles on back streets until its warm because it will stall 3-5 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15594" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T17:21:56.463" Title="50cc Chinese Scooter GY6 QMB139 hard start when cold" Tags="|scooter|cold-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27003" CreationDate="2016-03-08T23:19:18.497" Score="5" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently had to blast my horn for about 2 minutes while I was driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got me wondering: &lt;strong&gt;Does using the horn for long periods of time damage it/wear it out?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Opel Agila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T03:37:04.753" Title="Do long blasts of the horn damage it?" Tags="|damage|wear|horn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24419" CreationDate="2016-03-09T00:02:56.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Habéis intentado poner las pilas del mando de forma correspondiente  negativo correspondiente con negativo y positivo con positivo? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Translate to English through Google Translate and edited for fluency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you confirmed that the batteries are in the remote correctly (negative to negative and positive to positive)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15595" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T02:21:54.250" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T02:21:54.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T00:40:42.413" Score="8" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Cabrio only idles. I had a mass/air error code, however I changed this and had no luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped one from a running VW, the other VW ran normally, but mine didn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the shop read codes: mass/air and transmission and speed sensor. I changed the transmission and the speed sensor, but it still only idles. Now i get a TPS code. Swapped out TPS with running VW, and it fixed it. I took it to the VW  shop to get ecu flashed/reprogrammed after paying for 1 hr repair. The mechanic said the TPS was bad, so I swapped it with another one, however the other VW is  still running well and mine only idles. I have checked the wires and the ground. I'm out of ideas now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody please suggest what could be wrong? Do I have an ECU problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15596" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T11:41:51.580" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T06:10:37.413" Title="Do I have an ECU problem?" Tags="|vw|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T01:17:00.460" Score="5" ViewCount="19338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the usual cruise control feature include braking on most cars? I mean, if the car goes down the hill and braking by engine is not enough, are the brakes initiated so that the car does not exceed the set speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713514&quot;&gt;This forum post&lt;/a&gt; mentions the BMW X3 having the braking functionality for CC, but I just wonder what the norm is in the industry, whether most cars come with that braking or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further search reveals that BMW calls this feature Dynamic Cruise Control like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-dNIPy9SxE&quot;&gt;this video explains&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T02:55:20.983" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T02:38:16.680" Title="Does cruise control usually involve braking functionality?" Tags="|brakes|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26994" CreationDate="2016-03-09T02:53:03.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you from experience that after losing power, &lt;em&gt;certain vehicles will perform climate control calibrations when you restore power and start the car&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had disconnected the battery on a Ford Fusion to replace it, and after installing the new battery and starting the car, the climate controls were &lt;em&gt;completely useless&lt;/em&gt;. The temperature did not correlate to the settings whatsoever, and passenger side was different from the driver side, even though &quot;dual zones&quot; was turned off. Turning the heat/AC on/off and restarting the car did no good. My solution below worked, and I have to keep it in mind every time I disconnect the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the car off, unplug the climate control or &quot;HVAC&quot; fuse and wait 30 seconds before plugging it back in. Alternatively, you could disconnect the battery (in case you are unsure which fuse to pull or the fuse method doesn't work). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After restoring power, start the car and &lt;em&gt;do not touch any controls&lt;/em&gt;. Let the car calibrate the sensors. The wait period is arbitrary, but three minutes should be plenty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The climate controls should now be calibrated. Test both the heat and AC, and if available, test individual zone temperatures to be sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4389" LastEditorUserId="4389" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T17:38:47.747" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T17:38:47.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26998" CreationDate="2016-03-09T03:37:04.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No not at all, the horn is not gonna get damaged. My old Nissan Maxima once had a faulty hood lock switch and the alarm went off during night. The alarm was on for almost all the night and the horn was honking too, I knew it the next day when there was a notice hanging on my apartment door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T03:37:04.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26997" CreationDate="2016-03-09T03:44:01.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the oil that you use on your scooter, If you are using heavy oil then the cold start is going to be a problem, I have a 150 cc Gy6, I use lighter oil like 5w-40 and I had no problem, but if you are using any other oil that has higher viscosity than 5w-40, you better switch back to the 5w-40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual suggests 75w but most people use 5w-40. I use the same and never had any problem, my scooter has about 5000 miles. So save the heavier oil for summers and lighter oil for the winters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T03:44:01.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27013" CreationDate="2016-03-09T04:08:45.910" Score="3" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2014 Honda NC700x motorbike, and I'd like to install the aftermarket Bikemaster Heated Grips on it. I purchased the 7/8&quot; kit, instead of the 1&quot; kit that is also offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to connecting electrical components to the NC700x, I've been seeing a lot of talk about a &quot;subharness&quot; and a &quot;relay.&quot; Are these components absolutely necessary, to connect external accessories, or can I get away without them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the &quot;subharness&quot; and &quot;relay&quot; designed to ensure that connected accessories are only powered while the ignition is on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help understanding this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T09:48:28.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T09:48:28.730" Title="Key-on electrical for the Honda NC700x" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T04:37:09.410" Score="4" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's 05 civic started to have some strange electrical issues. I'm not sure even where to start troubleshooting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She originally complained that both headlights died simultaneously. I assumed that one was already dead and she only noticed when the second went out. There were no issues with the brights and the fuses were fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then things got stranger ... the SRS light started coming on at random intervals while driving, stay on for a period of time and then go off. Now the battery light started doing the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery itself seems to have plenty of power and it's relatively new (7 months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking back, the civic has been through a lot more headlights and batteries than my Accord (01). I've replaced the battery three times in the last four years and the headlights at least once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be the battery, alternator, computer or ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T06:13:17.953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:28:28.443" Title="2005 Civic - Strange electrical issues" Tags="|electrical|battery|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27008" CreationDate="2016-03-09T04:41:51.370" Score="5" ViewCount="8319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of turning off the ignition with the clutch disengaged, if a person makes a habit of stopping their car by stalling the engine (leaving the transmission in gear and taking their foot off the clutch), will this cause any damage or excessive wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15601" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:23:28.520" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:23:28.520" Title="Turning off a manual transmission car by stalling the engine" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27007" CreationDate="2016-03-09T06:00:17.387" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the clutch engagement to turn the vehicle off can definitely hurt the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially what you're doing is wearing the clutch, bearings that lie within the motor, rings and valve seals. If you can visualize the physics and mechanics of what you're doing, it makes sense. When you let your foot off of the clutch pedal, you're pressing the friction disk to the flywheel. When this occurs the engine with the right amount of torque and RPM, will move the vehicle. If you let your foot off of the gas at idle you're stressing the inner workings of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that enough pre-loaded momentum (Revs) will allow you to move forward without damaging the engine. It's similar to the idea of power lifters when they &quot;YANK&quot; the weights rather than slowly lifting them. They use the momentum and velocity of their own body weight to pull the weight. An engine is very similar. This is why driving with a lightweight flywheel can be a bit tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive wear with occur most likely at the flywheel and friction disk in the clutch assembly. As you let your foot off the clutch it will experience a lot of heat and friction. If this is done everyday, it will wear out very quickly. You can also warp the flywheel if it's already hot. Not likely, but it's a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connecting rod bearings will also have added stress when you do this. When you stall the car, the rod bearings get pushed up against the crank shaft and piston rods. Often times it's a jerking motion which is not healthy movement for a mechanism of that sort. It's very un-chronologically sound movement for a bearing of that type at a low RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piston rings can wear from this is well. The oil for your pan, and any oil squirt pumps that spray at the bottom of the piston will not be pumping sufficiently. This will wear out the cylinder wall and the piston rings over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve seals will be effected as well. When you stall the car like that, for the two or three seconds that it takes the car to die you will not have fuel or spark. You will leave unburnt fuel inside the cylinder. Additionally as the vehicle dies, the added air and fuel that did not combust will cause the cylinder to exceed pressure it wasn't designed to handle. This isn't really a problem if you do it every once in a while, but if you do it constantly problems can arise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T06:00:17.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26973" CreationDate="2016-03-09T08:22:21.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a split in one of your air hoses from the turbo.  This would let out the pressurized air produced by the turbo during boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:22:21.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27006" CreationDate="2016-03-09T08:28:28.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The regulator in your alternator could be faulty.  If it is allowing the alternator to produce too high a voltage, this could cause early failure of you bulbs and your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the engine running you can use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery, it should be between 13.8 and 14.4 volts.  If it is above 14.4 volts, then you have found your fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an OBD2 reader, you will be able to read the battery voltage using that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:28:28.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27001" CreationDate="2016-03-09T08:32:29.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not normal for cruise control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Land Rover Discovery has &quot;Hill Decent&quot; mode which allows you to take your foot off the brake while going down steep hills.  The computer then takes over controlling the speed of the vehicle using the brakes.  This function is mainly for off-roading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T08:32:29.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27005" CreationDate="2016-03-09T09:25:19.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a switch to turn on the heating then you definitely should use a relay, wiring the switch in directly is not a good idea. Usually switches shouldn't ever see high currents that are used in such applications, so switching should be done via relays only. If you don't need an on/off switch for your grips - a relay could allow you to turn the grips on and off together with other devices, for example your headlights (so they wouldn't turn on as soon as the ignition is turned on but rather when the lights are switched on). If you want so simply wire it directly to the ignition then it should be alright without a relay, but it's quite impractical - you have no way of turning the heating off, even in hot summer days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand the subharness is basically wiring for the grips along with the connectors, you could just fabricate your own, but some kind of wiring is obviously necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T13:09:21.937" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T13:09:21.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T09:46:23.547" Score="5" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Chevy Spark 1.2 L 2012 model overheated and blew the head gasket. I replaced the gasket and spark plugs. The engine is turning, but it won't start. Plugs do get petrol. Engine sounds like sewing machine when turning. Any suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15606" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T23:51:01.950" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:51:01.950" Title="Car won't start" Tags="|chevrolet|overheating|head-gasket|spark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27025" CreationDate="2016-03-09T09:57:01.703" Score="7" ViewCount="3796" Body="&lt;p&gt;When choosing spark plugs one has a lot of options. One of the differences is the diameter of the electrode tip - some spark plugs have a large flat tip, and newer models often have a really thin tip. There are many options in between as well, I've seen exact recommendations for certain models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xww4C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xww4C.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fat?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFlN0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFlN0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Or thin?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know the spark usually is emitted from the sharp edges of the tip, as the electrical field is the strongest at those points and discharge happens there. Sometimes grooves are added to the tip to increase the length of these edges. So what is the effect of different diameters, is a thinner tip always better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T20:13:32.780" Title="What is the effect of different spark plug electrode tip diameters?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T10:53:18.370" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what ABS/ESC Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) exactly are being used in Ford cars that feature the Active City Stop? The City Stop needs to be able to initiate brakes electronically and I suspect there may be other pump units used than on models without City Stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am especially interested in smaller Ford models like the Focus Mk3. Is there some online database that could list these parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T22:01:50.713" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T22:01:50.713" Title="ABS/ESC units used for Active City Stop (Ford)" Tags="|ford|part-identification|abs|esp-esc|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27014" CreationDate="2016-03-09T11:31:58.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're lacking compression - I think the sound you're trying to describe is the engine turning much faster than it should be, which would be hte case if there was no resistance. Have you checked that the timing is correct? When you replaced the gasket, did you get the head skimmed? Have you checked the correct torque values for the head bolts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T11:31:58.720" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27019" CreationDate="2016-03-09T11:57:41.547" Score="7" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 weeks ago I changed a 12V battery on my Toyota Prius auto. But after being in for two weeks the battery was discharged again. I tried to recharge it, but it did not work - the charger does not start charging - though the battery voltage was 0.1 V. Now I want somehow to start the car and go to the service and check the electronics. To do this, I have bought a new battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What should I do with the first battery? Is it possible to recover it or not? Has anyone encountered such a strong discharge in a relatively short period of time? Does this mean the battery status?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How should I prepare a new battery: are they sold already charged or is a pre-charge needed before installation?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15607" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T15:01:57.720" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T06:22:35.093" Title="12V Battery change" Tags="|toyota|battery|battery-charger|prius|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27018" CreationDate="2016-03-09T12:06:30.263" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC, the Prius has a step down voltage regulator which charges the 12v battery from the main power. I'd bet this system is having an issue and is not charging the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 12v battery. I'd bet the old battery (the first replacement?) is good, but has dropped in voltage below what the charger can deal with. To overcome this, you need a second 12vdc battery source tied to the first (in parallel) which is used as reference voltage so the charger will pick it up. Once the charger starts charging, it is usually okay. I'm not sure why the chargers do this, but having a second 12v source which the charger can actually read allows it to charge. You need to get the battery charged sooner than later as the longer it sits without a charge, the more sulfation will occur on the battery plates. Sulfation is the process of sulfate crystals forming which occurs as a battery is deeply discharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T12:06:30.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T13:10:26.490" Score="4" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a 2004 VW Polo and this uses a K-Line Bus (I think), how can I retrieve the fuel Level in the tank if the information is not made available as part of one of the standard OBDII PIDs (I think PID 012F is set aside for Fuel Level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some car manufacturers do not make it easy to get the fuel Level but I know the car can measure the remaining fuel level because a signal of some kind is making its way to the instrument cluster which is showing the fuel Level on a gauge.  I am trying to work out is there any way I can issue a query of some kind either using OBD or a more specific query on the K-Line bus to obtain this value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guidance as to what is and isn't possible would be a great help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15609" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T23:50:17.010" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T17:46:00.113" Title="obtaining Remaining Fuel Level from a 2004 VW Polo (Mk4)" Tags="|vw|obd-ii|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27020" CreationDate="2016-03-09T13:19:05.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car does not support the Fuel Level PID (mode 01 PID 2F) then you cannot read it via OBDII. You'll have to figure out how the dashboard instrument panel reads it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the level is measured by a floater connected to a potentiometer - it's quite likely that the panel is reading an analog voltage signal coming from the fuel sender unit. You could splice into it, the wire shouldn't be hard to find, it would be coming from the rear of the car (the sender unit is often screwed into the tank). Then you could simply measure the voltage (probably 0-12V depending on the fuel level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzQJq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzQJq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fuel sender pulled out from the tank. Note the potentiometer on the side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the signal will be PWM, but I've never personally seen the fuel level transmitted this way. In that case you'll need a microcontroller or low pass filter to read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T13:24:15.923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T13:24:15.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27031" CreationDate="2016-03-09T13:30:48.953" Score="4" ViewCount="6021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car with automatic gear (Mitsubishi 1600cc, if it matters) and sometimes when I want to gain speed quickly (e.g. when passing a slower car in a two-way road) I do a kick-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it causes bigger fuel consumption, but I would like to know if it's also harmful to the engine itself, and if so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15611" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T13:34:05.993" Title="Is intentional kick-down bad for the engine?" Tags="|engine|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27001" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:37:14.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two type of cruise control, &lt;strong&gt;passive&lt;/strong&gt; (normal) and &lt;strong&gt;adaptive&lt;/strong&gt; (has other names)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Passive cruise control&lt;/strong&gt; targets a speed, it reduces throttle position to slow down, but if engine braking is less than the effect of a steep downhill, the car will gain speed. This type of cruise control is not integrated with the braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adaptive cruise control&lt;/strong&gt; uses sensor(s) on the front of the car to determine the distance to the next car, generally you set a target speed (and sometimes following distance), and the car will do this speed if there is space ahead, in traffic it will reduce the speed to maintain the gap from the car ahead, and can brake if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:37:14.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27015" CreationDate="2016-03-09T16:25:47.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fine wire plugs are less restrictive of the air fuel mixture getting into the gap and the flame getting out. This allows faster flame initiation. Which in turn improves combustion completion percentage. It reduces misfire both complete and partial.  From a diver/owner point of view this can improve gas mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side of fine wire plugs is that the electrode runs much hotter. Only Iridium has been shown to survive at these increased electrode temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T20:13:32.780" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T20:13:32.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27028" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:02:33.450" Score="10" ViewCount="2653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving my girlfriends Ford Fiesta last week and it started to experience brake fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It always happened after driving the car at higher speeds over 100kmh (60 MPH). The brake pedal became spongy and there was a diminished braking effect. I noticed the left rear wheel heating up, so I guess the left rear brake is not releasing completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reducing traveling speeds, driving at around 70kmh (around 40MPH), brakes become responsive again and sponginess went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to think that the left rear brake is scraping and at higher speeds causing heat to build up which boils the braking fluid. So I scheduled the car for brake fluid replacement and a brake inspection to determine why the brakes are scraping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys at garage saw the rear braking cable was damaged and said that the braking issues came from the brake cable. I am not saying braking cable couldn't cause this problem, but I doubt it, and they haven't opened the drums to see why the shoes don't fully release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked them to just replace the brake fluid and see how that works but they refused. They said that I either replace the brake cable or go elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was I right, or wrong? I think they want to fool me and I don't have money for repairs that are not completely needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still think its suspicious as the high temp was causing the fading and it wasn't something permanent like a broken brake cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15614" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T09:48:29.320" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T09:48:29.320" Title="Brake fade and spongy brakes at high speeds" Tags="|ford|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27027" CreationDate="2016-03-09T17:49:21.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what you have posted, changing the brake fluid is not going to solve the problem. It's just going to provide a clean new fluid to boil when your brakes stick. If I read what you said correctly the guys at the garage are telling you that the brake cable (likely the emergency brake cable) on the rear is what's causing the rear brakes to stick. They may be stuck all the time but you only notice the problem at higher speeds because the effect is too small to notice at low speed. In the end, you need to fix the cable, and then replace the fluid. And while the cable is being fixed, have them check inside the drum to see if there is an additional problem that's making the pads stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, how did you know the drivers side rear wheel was getting hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T18:35:46.390" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T18:35:46.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T18:11:44.677" Score="4" ViewCount="7731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Mazda6, and the headlights in it have not been working since I replaced the alternator.  But the high beams work just fine.  What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15617" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T16:57:23.023" Title="Headlights not working in 2006 Mazda6" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T18:53:07.787" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;My quad was overheating bad and I didn't think about it and opened the oil cap like an idiot and it sprayed oil and smoke everywhere so I hurried up and shut it off and I tried to start it after it cooled and I added some oil. I had to replace the pull string it burned it right off and now it will not fire up no matter how many times I pull the start string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope the oil shooting out didn't ruin it. Spark plug maybe? It was kinda dirty and I cleaned it off but I don't know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15618" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T19:29:45.490" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T19:29:45.490" Title="suzuki 85 lt 185 wont start" Tags="|suzuki|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-22T11:53:53.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27022" CreationDate="2016-03-09T19:26:45.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, unless the engine speed increases excessively (in an emergency you will accept this for braking). Just about any vehicle will deny kickdown if your road speed is too high &quot;at that time&quot;.  It will put stress on your drivetrain, but this should be well within design parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long steep descent in a heavy or overloaded vehicle, there may be issues with richer mixtures but this will depend on the delivery method and the age/condition of the components concerned. Keeping it on or above the redline will shorten the life of the engine, timing chains may stretch, valves may &quot;float&quot;. If you have worn valve stem seals you will suck in some oil which can foul plugs and clog exhaust components (mufflers, ceramics, catalytic converters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in your case, the intent is for the shift down to occur so that the engine is not &quot;lugged&quot; and that more power is available. It is normal, many drivers would even preempt the shift to avoid the delay and perceived &quot;shock&quot;.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T19:26:45.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27029" CreationDate="2016-03-09T19:57:47.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the alternator replacement has introduced an open in the low-beam circuitry, but there are other potential root causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a way to help you rule out other possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;faulty light switch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the relay labelled &quot;HEAD RELAY&quot; in the image below. Without removing it, put your hand on the relay and have someone cycle the low-beam switch on/off from the interior. If you can feel/hear the relay click, you know that the relay is receiving signal from the light switch and can rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKkJF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKkJF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuse box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;blown low-beam fuses&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 15 A fuses right next to the headlamp relay. Test/inspect these to make sure that they are not blown.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above two possibilities are ruled out, you should be able to confirm the open circuit with a multimeter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pull out the headlamp relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;set the multimeter to voltage mode&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;probe the fuse box where relay terminals 30 and 87 are supposed to connect. A zero voltage reading would confirm the circuit open&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;don't forget to reinstall the headlamp relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T22:10:30.463" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T22:10:30.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27037" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:09:27.310" Score="7" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this question is probably more at home on EE.SE, the implications can be quite profound when troubleshooting automotive problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to test for continuity on a 12 V circuit with next to no load, can I safely do so with the multimeter set to resistance mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example use case would be when testing for fuel injector signal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if resistance mode behaves more like current mode (negligible resistance), in the absence of the injector a live circuit can generate excessively high current that could burn the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if resistance mode behaves like voltage mode (very high resistance), there should be no problems with using it for this particular application.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:48:33.067" Title="Can I use a digital multimeter in resistance mode on a &quot;no-load&quot; circuit?" Tags="|diagnostics|multimeter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:12:25.590" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;The emissions light comes on and while driving, it starts to jerk as if driving a standard transmission and not using the clutch properly. Take my foot of the gas pedal &amp;amp; it will stop for a few minutes - then I can accelerate no problem. Also, I could be driving about 90-110 km/hr and it will start to jerk and loose power. It is very frustrating - I changed gas and also put on a new gas cap tightening it as much as possible. I need some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15619" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:42:18.713" Title="2005 PT Cruiser Emissions Light On Periodically" Tags="|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26830" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:41:31.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most reliable way to tell if two injectors are interchangeable is to determine how much fuel they can flow in a given amount of time. The close the two flow rates are, the more compatible they will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world you could bench-test them with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/dp-ECEpN52k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;setup similar to Jafro's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in fuel trims before and after injector replacement is another way to tell if the two models were different or identical - there would be no change in fuel trims if the two models were for functionally-identical injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:41:31.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27034" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:42:18.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, codes would help. That said, to me this sounds like misfire. Usually, in such cases the engine light will actually blink (meaning you should not drive the car prior to repair the issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12144" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:42:18.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27033" CreationDate="2016-03-09T21:48:33.067" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;measure resistance&quot; mode, the DMM (Digital Multi Meter) uses an op-amp (Operational Amplifier) to put a constant current across the probes. It then measures the voltage drop that results, and by Ohms law (V = IR, voltage equals current x resistance) you then know the resistance. This assumes that the voltage present is only that from the DMM. I don't think the DMM is going to handle having a the car put a voltage across the probes. You could conceivably pop the meter if there is enough voltage across the probes. I don't recommend doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the load on the circuit is going to matter, if there is enough potential difference between the two DMM probes, you could put enough current through it to pop the meter. The fact that the in car circuit does not have a lot of current flowing in it is only important as the large current draw could cause a bigger voltage differential across the probes. This just seems like a really dicey thing to do. And I have done some very spectacular meter melting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T21:48:33.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27919" CreationDate="2016-03-09T22:06:39.423" Score="6" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;So before I speak to a garage I thought I would ask your opinions here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Facelift Vauxhall Corsa C. I've had the brakes and shock absorbers replaced - this was done soon after I bought the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I've noticed that if I go full lock when turning I get a knocking sound - putting this down to knackered CV joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving at any speed over 15mph there is quite a loud rumbling/humming sound inside the car, I mean it is really noticeable, what would you say this is? Possible hub issue or perhaps a wheel bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when I go over bumps in the road there is a very loud creaking coming from the front. One idea I had was anti roll bushes needing replacing but not sure, opinions welcomed on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no doubt I'll be going to a garage to sort this soon but having some idea would be really appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Andy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T23:41:59.417" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:25:33.537" Title="2005 Facelift Corsa C - Rumbling/humming sound &amp; others when driving" Tags="|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17647" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:18:22.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check engine fresh air intake hose, look for cracks in the bellows region in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15620" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:18:22.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26980" CreationDate="2016-03-10T00:16:43.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fix this yourself with some sockets, a wrench, a torque wrench and probably about 200-500 dollars in work and a few days wait that most machine shops will charge to restore a busted head. You'll need about a hundred bucks to get a new gasket and you'll probably need a good weekend to take all the manifolds, wires, injectors and hoses off the head and label and bag everything appropriately for later reassembly, but it's not rocket science. With practice you can do it in a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, what shop would charge three grand for a head gasket? Is inflation really that bad? That's like 400-500 dollars in work if I remember right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goop and snake oil won't fix a head gasket. Making the surfaces flat, true, clean and uncracked with a fresh gasket is the only thing that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T00:16:43.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T01:48:22.077" Score="3" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Dodge Charger which is equipped with Excalibur AL-1510-EDP security system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car battery went dead couple of days back and when I jump started it, it stopped working with my regular key. However I am able to start the car with the security remote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any setting in my security system which have caused this failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15624" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T02:34:11.890" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T02:34:11.890" Title="Dodge Charger with Excalibur AL-1510-EDP security not starting with regular key" Tags="|dodge|jump-start|security|ignition-key|remote-start|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T02:00:27.760" Score="6" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1961 Chevy Apache. It has the 4 headlight system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dash lights wouldn't work right unless I wiggled the switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed all new headlights, new bulbs in the dash, and a new headlight switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the dash lights won't come on and one of the low beams won't come on unless the highs are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15623" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T02:47:22.830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T18:06:22.543" Title="1961 Chevy Apache - Low beam headlight won't work unless highs on" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|headlight|switches|apache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27018" CreationDate="2016-03-10T02:06:08.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't leave the proximity key anywhere near the vehicle. It wakes the computer which will slowly drain the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15625" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T16:13:34.657" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T16:13:34.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2016-03-10T02:24:11.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be bearing play, but since you checked that, check the slide pins of the caliper. Maybe even crappy pads or brake hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15625" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T03:13:19.847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T03:13:19.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T07:25:38.670" Score="9" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some of the reasons some engines are more prone to head gasket failure? Is it the way coolant and oil passages are designed and distributed? E.g. Subaru is notorious for head gasket leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T16:02:28.567" Title="What makes some engines more sensitive to head gasket failure?" Tags="|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27053" CreationDate="2016-03-10T08:04:47.440" Score="9" ViewCount="32755" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Mitsubishi Pajero 1994&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Pajero and had a strange problem happen this morning, in the middle of driving the indicators strangely stopped working but when I pulled up the hazard lights where working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15628" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T00:55:37.177" Title="Indicators Not Working But Hazard Lights Working" Tags="|fuse|indicators|fuse-panel|pajero|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27052" CreationDate="2016-03-10T08:04:47.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traced this problem to a fuse under the dashboard, located in the middle horizontal row right most fuse. Turns out this fuse is the indicator fuse and when this fuse is blown the indicators won't work but the hazard lights still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the solution in my specific instance but there are two other possible faults which could be to blame for indicators not working...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indicator Stalk - The switch contacts in the control stalk could be at fault (thanks @alex).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hazard Light Switch - It may seem counter-intuitive that if the hazard lights work then the hazard switch is at fault, however the wiring from the indicator control stalk goers through the hazard control switch as the hazard switch effectively acts as the control stalk but applies power to both indicator light circuits at the same time. Due to the fact that the hazard light switch does not get frequently used the wires can come loose from the back of the switch or the switch can get a fault so if the fuse and the stalk seem in good nick then check the hazard switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15628" LastEditorUserId="15628" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T11:17:43.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T11:17:43.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27056" CreationDate="2016-03-10T11:09:48.483" Score="11" ViewCount="12200" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle (honda CBF150) came with a 12V 3AH battery. I want to change the stock 35w headlight to a higher power one and connect them directly to the battery (the stock ones are not, and they fluctuate). I also want to add fog lights and usb chargers in the future. To do that, I'm thinking maybe I need to increase the battery capacity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will replacing the current battery with a 7AH battery be enough or will I have to change the whole system (rectifier and all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15608" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T01:08:18.700" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T01:08:18.700" Title="How to upgrade a motorcycle battery to a bigger AH battery?" Tags="|honda|electrical|motorcycle|battery|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27054" CreationDate="2016-03-10T11:46:29.700" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you could put a bigger battery in .What may happen is that the total proposed draw is too much for the dynamo and it will go flat.Even if it does not go flat because your appliance usage patterns are intermittent you will get a lower battery life because of the constant cycling .If dealing with the charging system is too hard or too expensive then consider LED lamps which should draw only 20% of the current leaving more headroom for your proposed accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T16:29:57.750" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T16:29:57.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27054" CreationDate="2016-03-10T12:47:44.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Autistic and Chenmunka say, if you want to increase the electrical power you're using (by having a higher-rated headlamp), you'll need to generate more power - by having a bigger alternator or dynamo/generator. Simply fitting a bigger battery won't help, as it'll still discharge all the time you're using more power than you're generating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're already seeing the result of this even with your current lights, if they fluctuate with engine speed - you're only getting the full brightness when the alternator is turning faster and so generating more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T12:47:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27051" CreationDate="2016-03-10T13:48:38.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few of the main things I can think of....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher cylinder pressures put more strain on the combustion ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detonation/pre-ignition/pinging, especially on high compression or forced induction engines, can blow out the combustion ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warped cylinder head, typically due to overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close proximity ports.  There isn't enough gasket material between the ports, making the gasket inherently weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;insufficient clamping force on the head - head bolts/studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T13:48:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-03-10T14:40:34.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that the gears on the gear reduction system, in the starter, have brass bushings in them. The bushings wear out causing the armature to tilt sideways and then bind. Replacement of the complete starter is what I did, as replacing the parts that were worn would have been more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15631" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T09:53:46.693" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T09:53:46.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27063" CreationDate="2016-03-10T15:02:33.440" Score="7" ViewCount="2352" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; sensor data, thermal measurements, and physical resonance tests all point to a failed Catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the back story. MIL illuminated with codes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P0440&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P0420&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;P0404&lt;/a&gt;. Around this time, I noticed a gentle mechanical rattle/plinking on acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I replaced the gas cap, drive cycled, and MIL illuminated with same codes. I visually inspected system (lines, manifold, etc). Nothing obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it into two shops: a dealer and an independent. The dealer's plan was to replace the catalytic converter. The independent's plan was to replace the carbon canister. After some research, agreed that replacing the canister was the best response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the carbon canister, drive cycled, and MIL illuminated with only P0420. Progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0420 code (read 3/3), P0440 (read 3/12), P0446 (read 3/15)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;faint fuel smell while at rest and after driving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gentle rattling/pinging on acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depressed fuel efficiency (two year avg: 32.4mpg, four month avg: 28.2mpg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decreased acceleration power (perception, no hard metrics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am no expert. This is my first experience with the P04xx series codes. I'm reading a bunch online and going into two shops for expert advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer and independent both suggest replacing the cat at this point. That's an expensive operation ($1430 for Toyota part), one that I'm not convinced is the best move. From what I've read, this is not a cut and dried code. From what I understand, if it started with P0420 and gas smell, the culprit probably would be a bad front side O2 sensor. That rich fuel could lead to a failed cat (combustion in the cat). But, because the original code was P0440, I'm dubious about a sensor or cat problem and am leaning toward it being a loose line or a failed gasket somewhere. I think the next step should be a thorough inspection of the evap system. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools needed for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a failed cat? Or does it sound like a leak in the system? Or both? Or neither?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3/14&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've driven this Corolla 14 miles every day: 7 on highway, 7 city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two days ago, I rescanned the fault codes. The reported fault code had changed from P0420 to P0440. See my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27187&quot;&gt;other question&lt;/a&gt; on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed today the fuel smell after the car sat parked for 8 hours. Before, I had only noticed it after driving. Ambient temperature 77 deg F, 55% rel. humidity, no wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3/15&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New engine code today: P0446.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short and long term fuel trim are erratic this morning during city drives:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mErgA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mErgA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuel trim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The over-time O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; graphs shows rear sensor (green) tracking front (red):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEIjS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEIjS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;O2 sensors 1 and 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will drive it some more and confirm these readings, but if my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;understanding&lt;/a&gt; is correct, rear tracking front usually indicates a bad cat. I still need to get under there and take physical measurements (temperature, resonance), but the heat shield looks undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3/16&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used my new laser thermometer to measure the temperature differential after driving for 15 minutes. Average influx temperature measured at 401&lt;sup&gt;&amp;deg;&lt;/sup&gt;F &amp;plusmn; 2&lt;sup&gt;&amp;deg;&lt;/sup&gt;F. Average outflux measured at 439&lt;sup&gt;&amp;deg;&lt;/sup&gt;F &amp;plusmn; 2&lt;sup&gt;&amp;deg;&lt;/sup&gt;F. Very little difference, suggesting there's little or no exothermic reaction in the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used a rubber mallet for some percussive diagnostic. The chamber rattled when I struck it. I've heard this indicates the filament inside is corroded and disintegrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the open question: what would have caused the failure? I don't see how either P0446 failures (evap vent valve or PCM) or P0440 failures (canister, purge solenoid) would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecooptimized.com/index.php/gasoline/80-three-way-catalysts-aging-causes-of-failure-and-deactivation-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poison&lt;/a&gt; the cat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is a tiny oil leak in the timing mechanism, but it's tiny. I can't see this having any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I should mentally accept the &quot;catalytic converter is old&quot; answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:42:30.060" Title="2003 Toyota Corolla, 185k: erratic OBD codes, fuel smell, other symptoms" Tags="|corolla|catalytic-converter|p0420|p0446|p0440|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27051" CreationDate="2016-03-10T16:02:28.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can comment on the subaru part of your question. Subaru stands by their 'boxer' engine type, however one flaw to having pistons firing horizontally is that gravity plays against you in the long run. When you think about pistons firing horizontally and rings wearing down, general wear and tear to intake and exhaust valves, coolant leaks, this puts strain on the now completely vertically mounted head gasket. This is why head gaskets fail with a higher incidence in the subaru boxer engines. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kentbrothersautomotive.com/an-explanation-of-common-subaru-head-gasket-problems/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kentbrothersautomotive.com/an-explanation-of-common-subaru-head-gasket-problems/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15634" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T16:02:28.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27060" CreationDate="2016-03-10T18:08:43.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have rattling on acceleration and the fuel economy is depressed, it is very likely that the catalytic converter core has cracked and it is blocking the exhaust now. You can try to measure its efficiency first by looking if the rear O2 sensor voltage reading after heating is steady (so the catalytic converter is good) or jumping (so it is bad). If it is too much trouble for you to do this test and you can remove the catalytic converter yourself just do it and inspect it to see if it is broken. Mind that some debris may have been flung into the muffler so it may also need to be cleaned or even replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T18:08:43.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27060" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:26:39.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially the technical meaning of a p0420 is that the downstream o2 sensor is detecting an inconsistency with fuel trim. Generally this is code is associated with a bad catalytic converter. Many things can cause this code, but usually the easiest ways to figure it out are testing it with a hydrocarbon analyzer. The dealership usually has one of these. If they don't, all you can really do is test exhaust back pressure which is the pressure created inside the exhaust before the Cat. If you detect that it's too high, this would indicate a blocked or damaged cat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cats have honeycomb filters inside of them, when they break they turn sideways or will even get stuck in the outflow pipe of the Cat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not too savvy with emissions data. However though, I met this guy at SEMA and he knows a lot about emissions systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg9njaj3NgI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg9njaj3NgI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T19:26:39.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:46:15.673" Score="13" ViewCount="24445" Body="&lt;p&gt;A well-known fact when adding forced-induction to an engine originally designed for naturally-aspirated applications, is that it may be necessary to reduce the compression ratio to counter the increased risk of pre-ignition/detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cost-effective way to do this is to use a thicker head gasket. I came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.torquecars.com/tuning/lower-compression-ratio.php&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; which makes a rather interesting claim (emphasis my own):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A thicker gasket will reduce the compression ratio by a small&#xA;  fraction, probably only by .1 or .2. This is by far the easiest method&#xA;  of reducing compression &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;but the risk is gasket failure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and the gains&#xA;  in lower compression are minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physics behind this assertion is not clear to me. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;with all other factors held constant, is it true that a thicker head gasket is likely to fail?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if so, what is it about a thicker head gasket that makes it more prone to failure?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just that there is more surface area for the combustion gases to interact with the gasket, causing the head gasket to erode more quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it that a thicker head gasket will bulge more under compression, creating regions of higher stress concentration in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T04:01:32.020" Title="Does increasing head gasket thickness make it more failure-prone?" Tags="|engine-theory|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27069" CreationDate="2016-03-10T20:09:14.867" Score="11" ViewCount="35774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking into a tapping noise after a cold start on my 2003 Opel Agila, and apparently it is caused by &quot;tappets&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are tappets?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is their purpose?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are the necessary?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will my engine work without them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do they fail?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are they easy to DIY fix/replace?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T20:55:51.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T21:10:42.130" Title="What are Tappets?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2016-03-10T20:37:53.200" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it runs great except sometimes when hot .. and then it stalls and won't restart until cools down... for Datsun or Nissan you probably need a rebuilt ECU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15637" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T21:30:23.643" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T21:30:23.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27060" CreationDate="2016-03-10T20:45:12.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It definitely sounds like you have a serious issue with the catalytic converter and should have it replaced. Replacement with a universal converter should not be expensive. In expensive Silicon Valley (and air conscious CA) I got a replacement for $220 at a specialist shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the failure of your catalyst is a symptom of another issue and not a cause, as something clearly caused the catalyst to overheat, crack and fail. Once your catalyst is replaced, you should waste no time in determining if there are any other codes that persist (or newly appear) that indicate a root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I had a P0171 (System Too Lean) that basically meant that the ECU detected a condition that causes the engine to misfire frequently, which heated up the catalyst beyond specification and caused it to fail. The root cause was an oil-covered Mass Air Flow filter which detected less air than was actually passing through the air intake. The oil came from a &quot;performance&quot; reusable air filter. Never again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the 1ZZ-FE engine is notorious for burning engine oil because of pistons that are too small for the bore but Toyota cheaped out and compensated  by using larger piston rings, which wear down and/or stick. The burnt engine oil further poisons the catalyst leading to a P0420.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15636" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T20:45:12.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27066" CreationDate="2016-03-10T20:48:29.103" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technical definition of a tappet is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A tappet is a projection that imparts a linear motion to some other&#xA;  component within a mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes from here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tappet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tappet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what they do in your engine, let's start with a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LXYSj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LXYSj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve and tappet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the tappet is basically a cup that creates a clean, secure seat for the valve stem and the valve return spring. It also provides a flat plane to smoothly follow the cam lobe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answers the first two questions, what are tappets, and what is their purpose. To answer the rest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why are they necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the tappet the return spring and valve stem would have to follow the cam lobe directly. That would score the cam lobe and not provide a consistent footing for the spring so that the valve would close to a tight fit every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will my engine work without them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a prayer. If your engine is designed to work without them, then yes. But if it is designed to use them then it absolutely will not run without them. There are so many engine designs out there I'm sure there's one somewhere that doesn't use a device like this, but I am not aware of them. This is only one type of tappet by the way, there's a whole array of other types. Perhaps as an answer to another question, this one is getting big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do they fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my knowledge on this gets a little thin. As I understand it, the typical failure for these, causing &quot;noisy tappets&quot;, is that the cam lobe wears over time, and the clearance between the cam and the tappet is no longer in spec. Many times there is a shim sitting in a recess in the top of the tappet that allows you to set the clearance without having to replace the tappet. I did a little digging and came up with this list of possible reasons your tappets / lifters may fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubrication of cam and/or lifters is inadequate before first startup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New engine is turned over excessively before being initially started&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New engine sat too long before starting it for the first time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine is not at a sufficient rpm during camshaft break-in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve train geometry is incorrect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve to piston clearance inadequate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retainer to seal clearance is inadequate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve spring coil bind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve spring pressure is excessive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushrod tip angularity (at rocker adjuster)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tight valve guides – inadequate valve guide clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifter crown radius – improperly ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camshaft lobe rake angle incorrect for application&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reversed camshaft rake profile – rakes on wrong side of lobe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camshaft lobes are cut on too small a base circle – lifters too far down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting rod contacting camshaft – stroker issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushrods rubbing or intermediate contact within the heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect valve lash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker arm drag at shafts or trunions (oiling, clearance, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose cam gear retention bolt(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camshaft end play is excessive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil quality (inadequate zinc / phosphorus content, incorrect application, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contaminated oil (water, gasoline, particulates, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pressure insufficient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifter bore too tight, lifter doesn’t turn or work freely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifter bore alignment (cam blank &amp;amp; block manufacturing issues)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of used lifters on a new camshaft or in a different block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing the used lifters within an engine, not staying on same lobes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive low speed idle time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine sat too long with open valve spring load on the lifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect or inadequate heat treat on lobes and/or lifter faces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve float – bouncing and/or hammering the lifters on the lobes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use of ARP fastener lube on the lifters and/or lobes; simply the wrong lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using high viscosity lube on lifter shanks; keeps lifters from free turning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifters are reground to the point that the original surface hardness has been compromised.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocker assemblies have been installed without backing off the adjusters thus jamming the lifter against the lobe due to coil bind or other interference issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That list comes from here and actually is a list of failure causes for both the camshaft and the tappets. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2012/11/06/camshaft-and-lifter-failure-causes-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2012/11/06/camshaft-and-lifter-failure-causes-2/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are they easy to DIY fix/replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I think that depends on the engine you have, how many cylinders and how complex the cylinder head is. Overall, on straight forward engines, with a fairly easy to obtain set of specialized tools, you should be ok if you research what needs to be done first. I would not recommend just diving in with air tools and a tight schedule. Take your time, do your homework, and with the right engine. You should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a whole other category of tappets called hydraulic tappets, or hydraulic lifters. Lets grab a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMRtB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMRtB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hydraulic Lifter Components&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how they fit in your valve train overall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ok5Fd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ok5Fd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hydraulic Lifter Simple Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, it's the same kind of device, but now hydraulic pressure (oil) is used to take up any slack between the valve stem and the cam lobe face. The noise you hear happens when this mechanism for taking up the slack loses pressure from blocked oil paths, etc. If you have hydraulic lifters (tappets) then your first step is an easy one. Try a can of one of the oil additives that cleans the valve train and allows the lifter to get pressure again. I have no personal experience with any of those products, so I have no idea how well they work. Caveat emptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T21:10:42.130" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T21:10:42.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27349" CreationDate="2016-03-10T21:20:31.747" Score="10" ViewCount="7191" Body="&lt;p&gt;A previous question about tappets found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27066/what-are-tappets&quot;&gt;What are Tappets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;covers the basics of tappets. If we go the next step, here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the various kinds of tappets / lifters?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there in fact engines that still have valves, but don't have lifters? (Some kind of arrangement where the valve step and spring follow the cam another way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are solid tappets, hydraulic lifters, and roller tappets, are there other kinds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T16:28:44.813" Title="What are the various kinds of tappets / lifters and the advantages / disadvantages of each" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|valve|valve-timing|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27078" CreationDate="2016-03-10T22:26:03.650" Score="7" ViewCount="4747" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saw we had a Motor Vehicle Stack and I thought it would be fun asking some hot rod related questions.  One issue I've always faced in building a hot rod truck is determining how the pinion angle should be set up for the rear end.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when building a '57 Chevy how should the pinion angle be set?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the pinion angle, regardless of ride height, be exact to the yoke of the transmission on a single driveshaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you allowed a degree of tolerance if the axle and yoke do not match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="1591" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T14:31:03.350" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T16:02:08.913" Title="When installing air ride suspension how is pinion angle set on the axle?" Tags="|suspension|hotrod|rear-end|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T22:41:33.993" Score="5" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;After researching the topic the closest article I've ever been able to find was written by Ridetech: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridetech.com/info/air4link-tech/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What’s the difference between a triangulated 4 link and a parallel 4 link?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.  However, a concern with running the Parallel 4 link wouldn't it be bad on the truck frame during vehicle articulation?  Most Parallel 4-link kits I've researched use Urethane bushings but wouldn't it ride like a covered wagon, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T22:42:31.500" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T00:02:50.347" Title="Is a parallel 4 link safe compared to a triangulated 4 link?" Tags="|suspension|hotrod|rear-end|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T22:43:09.087" Score="7" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00620PXMW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;car refrigerant gauge online&lt;/a&gt; because my A/C is not cooling the air at all and the first suggestion was to check your refrigerant to see if it is empty or low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out where &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3gC2dzvJi4#t=3m10s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my car's &quot;low side&quot; opening is for a 2008 Mazda 3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started the car first and put the AC on and the hot/cold dial on max cool and the fan on max. &lt;strong&gt;I then attached the gauge to the opening and it reads 96 PSI, is 96 PSI bad?&lt;/strong&gt; Outside temperature was about 75 +/- 5 degrees Fahrenheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was expecting to see 0 or low refrigerant charge. So I'm not sure what to make of the gauge reading 96 PSI and I'm not sure what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11948" LastEditorUserId="11948" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T12:51:22.593" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:38:31.997" Title="Measuring A/C refrigerant I got 96 PSI, is 96 PSI bad?" Tags="|ac|troubleshooting|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27073" CreationDate="2016-03-11T02:12:58.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is with unequal length arms (assuming a 4-link suspension as we were discussing in chat), the pinion angle is going to change as it travels through its arc of motion. You can see it in this graphic what I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MnBg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MnBg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to this you are not going to be able to set it for every ride height. Since your application is not for racing, &lt;strong&gt;you want the difference between the drive train angle (engine/tranny line) and the pinion angle to be zero&lt;/strong&gt;. Since you cannot readily set the drive train angle, it's left up to you to set the pinion angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your links are equal length, the pinion angle is going to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dIHz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dIHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While 2.09° is not a huge amount, you can probably tell from the image that the longer the links, the less the change is going to be in both pinion angle and in wheelbase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Williams'&lt;/a&gt; website, he says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Operating angles in a driveshaft are the angles between the pinion, driveshaft and transmission centerlines. The optimal angle for any driveshaft to run at is 1/2 degree, where many vibrational and frictional problems are non-existent. In order to minimize power loss and vibration in an offset configuration, the pinion centerline and the transmission centerline need to be parallel. In general, the largest angle for racing applications should 2 degrees and the centerlines should be parallel within 1/2 degree. With suspension movement the operating angle will increase, but should not exceed 15 degrees. If the centerlines are off too far, the u-joints travel at uneven operating velocities, causing vibration (this is the same problem induced by poorly phased end yokes). This vibration is hard to distinguish from an unbalanced driveshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to all of this, your best bet is to &lt;strong&gt;set your pinion angle at your driving ride height&lt;/strong&gt;. This will allow you to drive at highway speeds without worry of driveline vibration. It will also still allow you to get around if you want to move your vehicle when the ride height is raised or lowered from driving ride height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T02:12:58.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T06:10:09.493" Score="3" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vacuum membrane of this device in my car is broken, so it does not work and also it leaks vacuum. The problem is that I do not know the proper name for it and also the part number is not written. I have attached a picture, maybe somebody could tell me the part number (for some reason part numbers for car parts are very difficult to find if it is not possible to read it on the part itself)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 1984 VW Jetta MkII, engine code EZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yJFH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yJFH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;airbox vacuum unit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2012" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T06:10:09.493" Title="Part number for intake warm air flap on VW Jetta MkII" Tags="|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T07:35:18.950" Score="5" ViewCount="4163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the clutch in my 2000 E39 M5 with a stage 4 rigid hub 6 puck MIBA disc, high load self adjusting pressure plate (re-used allen bolts, torqued to &quot;feels just slightly tighter than originally did, but can't go tighter for fear of stripping&quot; as my torque wrench would not have faired well using the 4.5mm screwdriver bit placed into a 1/4&quot; 1/4&quot;-drive socket attached to a 1/4&quot; to 3/8&quot; adapter with a 6&quot; extension (used this way with 3/8&quot; ratchet and circle end of box wrench for torque) and then coupled to a 3/8&quot; to 1/2&quot; adapter for the torque wrench all while trying to hold flywheel in place), lightweight flywheel (new bolts, torqued to 110N-m (spec is 105N-m) without additional loctite), and new pilot bearing. Previous release bearing did not have many miles on it, so it was re-greased and put back into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a slight problem with the slave cylinder, which was not aligned properly on the release arm and caused it to blow apart the first time. I managed to re-assemble it and clip the seal cover back into place and installed it and via watching the output shaft I verified the clutch operated correctly, however it begins to disengage about one inch from its resting position at the top of the pedal, I was wondering if possibly the slave pushrod had bent or scraped the bore preventing it from retracting fully, or if this was a possible result of a non-oem clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I proceeded to re-install the rest of the components, when installing the driveshaft for lack of sufficient time and patience the guibo bolts were not torqued very tight, just enough until they no longer slid back and forth in their holes, the rest of the job was done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5-2 weeks afterwards I started hearing a rattling from the transmission-area under the car (really anywhere between the back of the engine and the rear wheels, haven't gotten a chance to get under it yet) when it is in neutral at a standstill, but pressing in the clutch pedal or lightly pushing the gear selector against one of the synchros causes this noise to stop. I was thinking that this could be caused by one of those guibo bolts loosening and rattling around, pressing in the clutch would reduce vibrations through the transmission, and engaging a synchronizer would put a slight amount of torque on the driveshaft that could bind the bolt in place to stop it. I plan to re-torque these very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 3 weeks later, I replaced the completely shot radiator, all went normal. Shortly afterwards I noticed that along with the vibrating, if I come to a stop and release the clutch in neutral, the engine begins to jump up and down rapidly in speed oscillating between 300 and 800rpm. Pressing in the clutch causes this to stabilize, and I can normally release it at that point and it stays stable. Today, however when I released it again it started doing it after about 6 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really at a loss for the rough idle issue, and if it can relate to the rattle noise. Anybody have something similar happen or know of possible causes/solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6877" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T11:41:12.430" Title="Car idles rough and makes rattling sound in neutral" Tags="|clutch|noise|bmw|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T07:57:30.177" Score="1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to know what size bolt for Mazda B3000 lower control arm mount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15647" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T07:57:30.177" Title="Lower control arm mounting bolt replacement size. 2004 Mazda B3000" Tags="|mazda|suspension|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19460" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:25:33.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds very much like a 'dry' solder joint on the battery connector. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, go to and re-solder the battery contacts. If not, go see your local watchmaker or IT hobbyist who should be able to solder for you. If it's just a surface carbon buildup, try a cleaner like 'CO Contact Cleaner'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T09:25:33.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23844" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:29:35.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Classic fuel pump issue. Replace it. &#xA;What's most likely to have happened is one or two of the little vanes in the pump has snapped off on a piece of rust/dirt. This makes that whine, particularly once the pump reaches full pressure and warms up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T09:29:35.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8097" CreationDate="2016-03-11T09:40:39.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to ask the dealer to check: the alternator pulley. These days, they have a one-way clutch in them, that is supposed to reduce belt vibrations and improve smoothness. If it seizes up (or in your case freezes!) it will make the engine shake and sound like a tractor. On the other hand, if the clutch in this pulley fails (not uncommon) it will scream it's little lungs out. A brand new vehicle shouldn't scream, period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T09:40:39.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27089" CreationDate="2016-03-11T12:51:56.313" Score="5" ViewCount="1593" Body="&lt;p&gt;After recently taking my car to have a new rocker cover gasket fitted as it was badly leaking I noticed the guy who did it put a ton of gasket maker on the rocker cover when he sealed it, heavens knows why; I gave him a new gasket so it shouldn’t really be needed. Perhaps he used it to improve the seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am worried about is what if a piece of this gasket maker broke off inside the rocker cover what sort of havoc would it wreak inside my engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastEditorUserId="1591" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T13:56:50.033" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T14:01:47.583" Title="Rubber gasket maker on rocker cover" Tags="|engine|gasket|valve-cover|gasket-maker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27431" CreationDate="2016-03-11T13:56:25.443" Score="2" ViewCount="6430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swift Dzire Battery Sign remains ON in the dashboard lights whenever car is started after 9-10 hrs and &lt;strong&gt;Car doesn't move until the battery sign is gone. Battery Sign usually remains ON for 10-15 seconds.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem doesn't occur with small parking breaks like If I park for 1 hour and start the car again then this problem is not reproduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xm58Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xm58Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battery Sign ON&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to Maruti Workshop to show my car but as I said that it doesn't occur with small parking breaks , so the problem did not occur in front of Maruti engineers and they checked Battery &amp;amp; Current leakage but no problem was found in that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no fixed pattern to reproduce the problem and it is not occurring Daily .Sometimes it happens daily , sometimes on alternative days. &#xA;Is there anyone who can help with this problem. &#xA;What can be the possible Cause ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is purchased in Oct 2014 and only 7577 kms driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13782" LastEditorUserId="13782" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T14:10:17.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:26:05.313" Title="Swift Dzire Battery Sign remains ON whenever car is started after 9-10 hrs" Tags="|battery|starting|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27087" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:01:47.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber gaskets typically seal well.  Cork ones are hit or miss.  If the valve cover is stamped steel, its normal to use gasket maker rather than the gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a piece did fall off inside the engine, the oil would likely flush it down to the oil pan and it would be caught in the oil pickup's screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T14:01:47.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27081" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:23:27.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking you probably lost one of the bolts connecting the pressure plate to the flywheel. Something people don't realize is that the torque on these bolts is &lt;em&gt;very important&lt;/em&gt;. Too tight and the pressure plate won't release the friction disk correctly. Too loose and you lose one (or two or ...) of the bolts out of the pressure plate. If you were to lose one of these bolts, it would cause an imbalance in the clutch assembly which would cause your engine to vibrate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a for instance: The torque for the clutch on my Z28 Camaro with T56 transmission was ~22lb-ft, IIRC ... that really isn't much torque considering. If you got them too tight, the clutch wouldn't disconnect correctly and you'd not be going anywhere.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if your M5 has an inspection access where you can see the pressure plate bolts. If you do, you should rotate your engine and inspect them to see if: 1) they are still in place; 2) they are torqued correctly (even if you have to use a jury rigged socket extension to do it). You may want to pull them out one at a time and get some Locktite on them as well, though they should really be torqued in a criss-cross pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T01:03:58.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T01:03:58.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6007" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:44:30.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nobody even went to this realm, I thought it might be a good idea to answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving the vehicle, the fans only provide as much air flow through the radiator as if you were moving ~35 mph (in most vehicles). Once you get past this speed, the fans are no longer a factor. Infact, in most cases, the &lt;em&gt;air moving through the radiator is actually pushing the fans faster than they'd normally spin&lt;/em&gt;. What does that mean? It means while the fans are engaged (powered on), they then become a small (very slight) generator and are pushing power back through to the electrical system. They are &lt;em&gt;actually providing current&lt;/em&gt;. When this happens, they are creating zero drag on your electrical system and in some small way may be helping reduce drag produced by other electrical systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw how this happens when I installed a set of electric fans (Flex-a-lite Monster Fan 270) on my '04 Suburban which came with a water pump mounted clutch fan. After I got them installed, I was turning one of the fans and the other fan would turn as well (unaided in no other way). The only way this other fan could have been turning is if the first fan were creating an electrical current and providing it to the second fan. While every car is going to be different and every fan setup is going to provide different amounts of generated current, it is a real phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T14:44:30.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27075" CreationDate="2016-03-11T15:01:02.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an A/C system to be functioning correctly, you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the cabin:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something to exchange cold (an evaporator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something to move air over the evaporator (the fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a working blend door that allows the user to select heat or cold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the engine compartment:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something to exchange heat (a radiator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something to move air over the radiator (radiator fan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a closed loop, containing refrigerant, through which refrigerant travels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a compressor, which converts the gas into a liquid for 1/2 of the loop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a filter containing silica desiccant to remove moisture from the loop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pressure switch which acts a safety in case the loop is not pressurized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the loop has pressure, and the switch is working correctly, the compressor activates. You will see the clutch on the compressor engage: this usually looks appears as an inner disc and outer disc. When the compressor is off, only the outer disc spins (the one attached to the serpentine). When the compressor is running, both discs spin as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your lack of A/C could be due to:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no compressor activity (due to insufficient refrigerant in the loop, a bad switch, or a faulty compressor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;intermittent compressor activity, but not enough to cool (due to insufficient refrigerant in the loop or a faulty compressor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a faulty fan in the cabin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a broken blend door in the heater box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start troubleshooting this by observing the compressor. Does it engage when you turn the A/C system on? Ideally, have two people for this -- one watching the compressor, the other turning on the A/C. If it runs at all, does it only run for a few seconds, and then turn off? When the compressor kicks on, you will see the pressure drop substantially. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional checks: Does the heater fan work? When you switch between heat and cold, can you hear doors moving around? Can you turn off heat entirely on a cold day? (not being able to turn off heat indicates a blend door issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last comment, and I'm reluctant to even bring this up: If the issue is your pressure switch, it is possible to &quot;jump&quot; this connection to force the compressor to come on. By closing the circuit that the switch is plugged into, it sends an &quot;all clear&quot; signal that the compressor can start. &lt;strong&gt;You do not want to do this for any significant amount of time.&lt;/strong&gt; A working switch correctly senses low refrigerant levels; running your compressor without refrigerant will destroy it. If you bypass the switch and the compressor comes on, and the air starts to become cold, your switch probably needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T18:38:31.997" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:38:31.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26918" CreationDate="2016-03-11T16:08:42.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to fix this yourself it sounds a lot like either the wiring or switches for the door lock system is at fault. The door lock is just a solenoid (a relay like device except instead of changing electrical contacts it moves a plunger) so it's getting toggled somehow when you don't want it to. So, something is applying power to the solenoid on a random basis. First thing to look at is the switches. There are only two that control all of the locks in the car, and that's the two in the front door pull handles. They are easy to remove. Once removed try putting a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) in resistance mode across the switch and gently push on the switch without actually changing it's on'off state. If the resistance is stable at infinite or zero then the switch is likely good. If it's flaky, and jumping when you touch it (even without actually moving the switch handle) then you likely have a bad switch. You can also try the test listed earlier and just remove one of the switches at a time and see if you can reproduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the switches, you can find the wiring diagram for the car online, or in some of the Chilton manuals. Given that the problem is power being applied randomly, it seems unlikely that something is shorting 12V to that solenoid with a short, but it's possible. Try looking for power at the solenoid (inside the door lock mechanism) when moving the harness. First place to check would be the wires that run between the body and the door, as they take the most abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think it's the switches, and it you test them thoroughly you'll find the problem. And more good news, they shouldn't be expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T16:08:42.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27096" CreationDate="2016-03-11T16:41:21.440" Score="8" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Chevy Cruise that has new brakes changed by the dealership, and they work perfectly in the rain, and dry conditions. But when there's snow on the ground, the brakes often start grinding, and I can feel it in the pedal (I can also hear it). This happens at the end of the stop. I assume it has something to do with the ABS mechanism in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why only when it's snowy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening when this occurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15136" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T16:51:27.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T16:51:27.187" Title="Brakes grinding when roads are snowy" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27095" CreationDate="2016-03-11T16:53:28.817" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal Sounds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound you are hearing is the ABS releasing pressure within the system to allow the wheels to continue to rotate and not lock up when you apply the brakes in low friction conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the snow builds up and you encounter low friction driving conditions due to snow and ice the ABS will kick in more frequently because you are encountering low friction conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'grinding' you hear and feel in your peddle is by design.  You have nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T16:53:28.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27097" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:38:47.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The donut is a small, compact spare tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T20:16:34.390" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T20:16:34.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27098" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-11T17:38:47.860" Score="0" Body="The donut is a small, compact a spare tire." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-06T20:16:34.390" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T20:16:34.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T19:58:58.820" Score="6" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAvKJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAvKJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove dents like this on the right side of the image? I've seen suction tools but the reviews are bad. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15542" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T20:32:20.497" Title="Paintless dent removal for old tank" Tags="|motorcycle|repair|fuel-tank|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27101" CreationDate="2016-03-11T20:02:09.823" Score="10" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Honda Stunner CBF 125 2009 model. I just need to know is it possible to replace the typical air filter with mashroomhead air filter to improve the bike performance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other way that I can use to improve my bike performance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15659" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T23:56:56.557" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T20:26:20.510" Title="Is it possible to fit mashroomhead air filter in Honda Stunner CBF 125?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|carburetor|air-filter|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27100" CreationDate="2016-03-11T20:30:44.490" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I wouldn't&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a carburetor on that bike.  You may need to do some adjustments, if not, you will make the air fuel ratio leaner and that will be really hard on your exhaust valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more oxygen you have in your &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;air fuel ratio&lt;/a&gt; beyond 14.1:1 will increase your combustion temperature.  This, in turn, can damage your exhaust valves due to too much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting a jet kit so you can increase your main jet size and drop your needle into your slide to get the optimum AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can refer to this article for further information about AFR and carburetors on motorcycles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16727/carburettor-jetting-on-installation-of-aftermarket-air-filter/16728#16728&quot;&gt;Carburettor jetting on installation of aftermarket air filter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a response to free flow exhausts creating a lean condition that may be beneficial to your knowledge base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5490/carburetted-motorcycle-stalls-when-accelerator-is-applied/24071#24071&quot;&gt;Carburetted motorcycle stalls when accelerator is applied&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally a response regarding identifying lean or rich conditions on a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.  Consider the jet kit along with a free flow air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2cents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T20:30:44.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27099" CreationDate="2016-03-11T20:32:20.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to resolve this dent issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;glue these plastic ding tabs to the gas tank.  You can find them by googling &amp;quot;plastic ding tab&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your gas tank.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a dent puller slide hammer.  The tip should screw into the plastic ding pullers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAQcA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the weight of the slide hammer to the bottom towards the gas tank and give it a good pull.  When the sliding weight hits the stop at the end of the hammer the transferred energy will pull onto the glued tab and pull the dent out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to repeat the operation a few times to get the way it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't very elegant but I have used compressed air by sealing the top of the gastank, removing the petcock and blocking off any cracks.  I use one of the two screw holes for the petcock to insert a rubber tipped air gun and charge the gas tank up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It CAN ruin the tank if you over fill with air pressure.  You can set the regulator on the compressor to only give you 30psi to start and work your way up in 5psi increments until the dent pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T20:32:20.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T21:08:15.230" Score="5" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Mazda 626, 2.0L, automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission won't shift. It stays in 3rd gear and won't go into any other gear. The car does drive, but won't change gear out of 3rd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car starts in 3rd gear and stops in 3rd. Reverse gear does work properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15660" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:30:55.200" LastActivityDate="2023-12-25T09:04:45.520" Title="Mazda 626 1995 automatic won't shift gears" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27105" CreationDate="2016-03-11T21:15:40.820" Score="8" ViewCount="9112" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 4 brake calipers on most cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a proper order in which to bleed them when bleeding brake lines, or can you bleed them in any order with the same result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T01:56:02.543" Title="Sequence for bleeding brake lines?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27104" CreationDate="2016-03-11T21:19:40.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are replacing the brake fluid for example, bleed the corner farthest from the master cylinder first. Then the next farthest, etc, etc till you have done all four. If you're just bleeding air out of the system, that's the order as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the master cylinder is on the firewall on the drivers side, so the passenger side rear would be first, then the driver side rear, then passenger front, then driver front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T21:22:50.147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T21:22:50.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27104" CreationDate="2016-03-12T01:56:02.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing it right, fluid is only moving downstream so it really doesn't matter what order you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most guides will tell you to go from longest to shortest run of tubing -- this does have the benefit of the job seeming to move along faster as you go.  If you wish to follow this order you should poke around and see for yourself how the system is laid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cars these days have ABS, so on those cars the longest run will be determined by the location of the Hydraulic Control unit, not the master cylinder. (2 lines will go from the master to the HCU, then 1 to each of the wheels).  On cars without ABS, the lines from the master will go through proportioning valve(s) then to each wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also consider buying/borrowing/renting a &quot;power bleeder&quot; that you use to pressurize the master instead pumping the pedal.  They make the job much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15662" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T01:56:02.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27110" CreationDate="2016-03-12T03:23:27.903" Score="3" ViewCount="5454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace some rotted under-body lines.  I'd like to use something easier to bend than old-school steel tubing - in particular, AGS' &lt;a href=&quot;http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nicopp&lt;/a&gt;.  At that link, the blurb for Nicopp line doesn't mention fuel, while the Poly Armour one does.  OTOH, &lt;a href=&quot;http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Nicopp page does include fuel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes me wonder is, (a) all 'headline' references to Nicopp (and Poly Armour, for that matter) call it brake line; (b) for something that seems ideal for the application, I'm not finding references to its use it for fuel line.  It just feels strange to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... And, if it can be used for fuel, can it be used with a compression fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: re compression fittings, I was wondering if the softer tubing might somehow not properly support the compression ring; and, also, if the O.D. of the Nicopp might be different than that of steel, such that it could still work in a flared fitting, but again not support the compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastEditorUserId="10471" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T03:55:55.390" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T14:50:25.573" Title="Fuel lines: is Nicopp OK for gas?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27109" CreationDate="2016-03-12T03:40:22.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second page you provided says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NiCopp® has been used on hydraulic/fluid transfer systems on vehicles where steel lines and tubing are commonly used. &lt;strong&gt;This includes&lt;/strong&gt; brake, &lt;strong&gt;fuel&lt;/strong&gt; and transmission systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be absolutely no issue using the NiCopp lines for fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for compression fittings, remember that the flared fittings shown on the page are for high pressure like you'd need for brake lines. As long as you get the correct size compression fittings it should work just fine for fuel, as long as you aren't using it for direct injection lines. Normal fuel pressure levels should be well under 100 psi. A compression fitting is going to work peachie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T03:40:22.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26895" CreationDate="2016-03-12T03:50:02.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be many things wrong here. I would start with the usual suspects, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you verify that fuel is getting to the injectors? What is the status of the throttle plate while the car is turning over?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you able to read the OBD codes set by the engine to determine failures (this might not be possible depending on the model year of the car - what is it, btw)? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How did you know that the glow plugs needed changing and can you test whether the new ones are indeed good? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While the car turns over, what is going on with the exhaust? Does the car belch out clouds of smoke when being turned over? Is anything visibly coming out of the tail pipe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T03:50:02.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T06:37:09.020" Score="3" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opened the bonnet, looked to LHS beyond screen-wash reservoir, removed cap on (?) hydraulic oil, found it to be RED in colour and below minimum level when engine not running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to shop: insisted I buy hydraulic oil for &lt;em&gt;manual&lt;/em&gt; - GREENish in colour! &#xA;Panicked. Went to another shop: bought hydraulic oil for &lt;em&gt;automatic&lt;/em&gt; - RED in colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confused!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I mix manual and automatic hydraulic oil?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low/dry reservoir - does it greatly damage clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15639" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T20:54:22.320" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T20:54:22.320" Title="Fluids for Citreon Berlingo Diesel With Manual Transmission" Tags="|diesel|manual-transmission|citroen|clutch-hydraulics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T06:51:55.757" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '94 Jeep seems to want to stall out at red lights and stop signs. It runs fine otherwise. However, upon cranking first thing of the day I have to let it idle for maybe five minutes before driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15664" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T19:37:02.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T12:32:47.497" Title="94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo" Tags="|engine|jeep|idle|stall|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27112" CreationDate="2016-03-12T09:29:51.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you opened the power steering reservoir.  If so, these usually use the same red dexron fluid as automatic transmissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually there is a symbol on the cap to identify it.  Quite often the power steering has a steering wheel symbol.  You really need to know exactly what to put in before you add anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T09:29:51.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27121" CreationDate="2016-03-12T13:41:33.190" Score="5" ViewCount="4321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like my Civic burned or lost 2L of oil in the past 6 months, I think that is excessive. At previous oil change garage mechanics advised me to use 5w30 viscosity oil because 0w30 is too thin. I used 5w30 just to see now that consumption is exaggerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always used high quality oil and replaced it often ( twice per year, around 12000km between drains ). I fear bad/warn piston rings, I must admit that I drove the car at the limit sometimes, maybe more than needed, like revving the engine to the redline.  I fear bad rings because enigne always used a bit of oil like 1L per 10000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a chance for worn piston rings on an gasoline engine which has only 130.000km on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12628/what-causes-an-engine-to-burn-oil&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; increasing to a thicker oil might increase oil consumption because of bad rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T18:39:43.860" Title="Civic R18A2 oil consumption" Tags="|engine|honda|oil|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T16:19:00.327" Score="5" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my 05 Hyundai Elantra has the check engine light on. I took it to the store &amp;amp; had them put the code reader on &amp;amp; it comes up with  p0501 vehicle speed sensor performance.  My question. .  is it ok for me to drive it until my husband can fix it?  Will I cause irreversible damage or really expensive damage if I continue to drive it today?   The auto part store said I should be fine driving it but I just wanted to get a second opinion &#xA;  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T16:39:06.020" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:39:06.020" Title="2005 hyundai elantra error code p0501" Tags="|obd-ii|hyundai|elantra|p0501|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27119" CreationDate="2016-03-12T16:25:25.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fine. You probably need a right front wheel speed sensor. At worst the speedometer will stop working until the sensor is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:25:25.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27118" CreationDate="2016-03-12T16:38:13.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many things wrong with what you are doing and what you have self diagnosed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, 0w-30 and 5w-30 are &lt;em&gt;the same weight oil&lt;/em&gt;. Modifiers in the oil cause it to flow easier with the 0w than with the 5w &lt;em&gt;when the engine is cold&lt;/em&gt;. If anything, you are hurting your engine by putting the 5w oil, than by using the 0w, because most engine wear occurs at startup of the engine. Since the 5w won't flow as quickly as the 0w would, you are keeping the engine without oil flow longer, causing more wear. No matter what else you do, go back to using the oil which is recommended for your vehicle. If that means 0w-30, then use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, while you say you are running only 10k per oil change, most vehicles recommend changing oil about every 5,000km or 3 months &lt;em&gt;which ever comes first&lt;/em&gt;. You are basically doubling the oil change interval which adds to oil breakdown and causes more wear on your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, 1L or oil per 10k is not a lot of oil to be using, especially considering what you've suggested in your question. More than likely in your case, your car is leaking more oil than it's consuming. (Check the fifth thing below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, most manufacturers have two different oil change intervals. One being for normal use and the other for severe use. Considering what you've suggested about &quot;... &lt;em&gt;I drove the car at the limit sometimes, maybe more than needed, like revving the engine to the redline&lt;/em&gt; ...&quot; you are definitely using it in the &quot;severe&quot; use range. There is nothing inherently wrong with using your car in any manner you'd like, but if you're going to be taxing your vehicle, make sure you are treating it well in return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth, check the inside of the tail pipe for soot. Take your finger and rub it. If the soot which is there comes back greasy feeling, then your engine is burning oil. &lt;em&gt;This would be an indication of oil going out the tail pipe and bad rings which would be causing it.&lt;/em&gt; If it's just a little black, then it shouldn't be a big deal. The engine may need a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sixth, park your car on a clean piece of concrete (in the driveway works well). In the morning, pull your vehicle back and check for oil spots where it was parked. If you don't find any, that doesn't mean much. If you do find some spots of oil, you know you are leaking a little bit. Lift the hood and check around the engine (on, under, around ... be thorough). You are looking for any dirt buildup on the engine or anything which looks like leaking oil. Look around the valve cover (typical leak spot). Check your accessories for oil or grime buildup. Any of these would indicate you are losing oil through leakage and not through burning the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if you haven't done it yet, &lt;em&gt;get the timing belt changed&lt;/em&gt;. If this has never been done, you are risking having to get a new engine regardless of if it's burning oil. If the belt should break or slip, your engine will encounter piston to valve contact, destroying at the very least the valves, if bad enough, could require an entire engine to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T18:39:43.860" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T18:39:43.860" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27113" CreationDate="2016-03-12T16:59:27.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be something with the idle sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a clogged catalytic converter. The problem can also be caused by a clogged or stuck EGR valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen both clogged catalytic converter and EGR valves as a common thing that causes this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An O2 sensor can be malfunctioning or be broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission fluid level may be low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the vehicle is from 1994 it should be the first standard of On board diagnostics (OBD-I). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OBD-I system should have the engine light or another flashing light tell you info by blinking. The number of times the light flashes should tell you something in the manuals list of codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:59:27.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27145" CreationDate="2016-03-12T17:04:49.190" Score="4" ViewCount="6977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with the 2.2l 4 cylinder, 5S-FE engine. The car has 143k miles on it.  I currently run 0w40 Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil with the Mobil 1 filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was changing the alternator I started the car to see if things were working properly.  That's when I noticed a rhythmic noise that follows engine RPM. It basically sounds like a sewing machine.  But,  rather than try to describe the noise, the following is a link to a recording of the sound.  It's a .WAV file about 90 seconds long.  The second half is better than the first.  I'm doing this on my phone or I would edit out the first half. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/kb5rs7gbvfchy0r/2016-03-11_22-49%20Engine%20at%20idle.wav?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/kb5rs7gbvfchy0r/2016-03-11_22-49%20Engine%20at%20idle.wav?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the recording was made the engined was at normal operating temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a stethoscope to try and narrow this down,  and I think it's coming from the valve train.  Is this the much recently discussed noisy tappet? I would make recordings from the stethoscope but I have to figure out hire to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that makes me think tappet is the frequency of the ticking. It's very low compared to engine RPM. Which if it's one tappet would make sense, it would be 1/2 to 1/4 of the engine RPM. If it's 1/4 that would be roughly 2 per second and that sounds about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts as to what the source of this noise is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T19:29:47.667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T18:34:18.110" Title="Diagnosing a rhythmic engine noise" Tags="|engine|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T17:34:14.130" Score="5" ViewCount="2402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please excuse if posted at wrong place. Does running car on CNG wears out engine? I am planning to buy used CNG car (India) but many mechanic advise against it for any CNG car than has run more than 35000 km but have no problem if it has 100000 km on petrol. I will be travelling 50 km daily, so CNG option seems best suited for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15671" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T00:38:13.970" Title="Petrol to CNG converted cars" Tags="|car|cng|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27132" CreationDate="2016-03-12T22:18:45.600" Score="9" ViewCount="3366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere you need to break in a new catalytic converter. To that end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this accurate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the purpose of breaking one in?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you break it in?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T02:08:26.420" Title="Breaking in a new catlytic converter?" Tags="|engine-theory|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2016-03-12T22:19:31.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;CNG conversions were very popular in New Zealand in the 1970s after the oil shock.As the conversion industry matured during the early 1980s some technical issues were discovered .The conversion people recommended that you recondition the engine before the conversion .This had serious cost ramifications and put many people off.The reasoning at the time was that the CNG does not have the same cylinder lubricating properties as the petrol it replaced .There were issues of engines not lasting as long as they were supposed to when converted to CNG .Many people who were contemplating CNG conversions were running up big miles like taxi drivers .People who did low milages generally did not bother converting because the prospective savings were not there for them.For you it depends on the price of an engine rebuild in India because you may be up for one down the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T22:19:31.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T23:24:35.987" Score="3" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord, 2.3L L4 with a 5-speed manual transmission. Recently, the speedometer has been sporadic- sometimes accurate, sometimes bouncing around, but mostly sitting at 0. I replaced my VSS, which seemed to help, but only a week or so after I installed it. It works more consistently now. There is a noticeable increase in performance when the speedometer engages compared to when it sits at 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15677" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:09:48.387" Title="Sporadic speedometer, and performance lags when speedometer not engaged" Tags="|electrical|repair|sensor|performance|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T00:21:34.713" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW E30 Convertible check light for brake &amp;amp; registration coming on to indicate that the bulbs are blown but all bulbs are correct and not blown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15678" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T00:21:34.713" Title="I have a BMW E30 the check light for brake &amp; registration comes on &amp; bulbs are all OK" Tags="|bmw|lights|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27127" CreationDate="2016-03-13T00:29:47.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This website seems to answer all of the questions you have asked above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/proper-break-in-can-prevent-future-problems/&quot;&gt;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/proper-break-in-can-prevent-future-problems/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website discusses proper procedures to make sure that the catalytic converter is broken in correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the bottom of the article there are steps to break in the catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some other links on the left of the article that involves catalytic converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main information for the website is presented below here. I give all credit to the website with their information below and on their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replacement catalytic converter needs to undergo a proper “break-in” procedure to ensure that it will con­tinue to work the way it is supposed to and deliver the required emissions reliability and long service life. If the converter is not warmed-up properly (broken-in), the substrate inside could be adversely affected and eventually cause the converter to fail down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper break-in period is required for a correct installation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem typically occurs when a shop installs the converter and immediately returns the vehicle to the customer without warming up (breaking-in) the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The customer drives away and runs the car for a long distance or lets the vehicle idle for an extended period of time. Under these conditions, the matting, which is intended to secure the substrate will not expand properly and hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Converter matting is made from a mineral called vermicu­lite, which is held together by a fiber mat and an organic binder. This matting is wrapped around the converter’s ceramic brick (See Figure 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The matting is installed in the converter in an unexpanded state (See Figure 2). During the first heat up, the fiber mat and binder burn off and the mat­ting actually gets looser before it expands to fill the converter cavity and hold the ceramic brick in place (See Figure 3). If that warm up is not done properly, the brick can come loose and get damaged. That rattle you might hear inside the converter shell is a sure telltale for this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm up that cat first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to avoid this service issue and potential war­ranty problems is to include the warm-up period as a key part of your overall converter installation procedure. This heating cycle will allow for correct matting expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are suggested steps for a proper break-in or warm-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start engine but do not touch the accelerator pedal.&#xA;Idle the engine and allow it to warm up slowly.&#xA;After 5 minutes, increase the engine speed to 2500 RPM.&#xA;Hold at 2500 RPM for 2 minutes.&#xA;Allow engine to cool down.&#xA;Road test vehicle to confirm correct installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastEditorUserId="15391" LastEditDate="2016-03-13T01:08:28.190" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T01:08:28.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T02:14:34.783" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to get a larger dent out of my old gas tank for a while now and am having no luck. I've been trying the hot glue method and am having no luck. This tank seems to be too thick for this method to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a dent specialist and was told $300 so I ran from that deal. Does anyone have any tips or ways they have fixed a tank? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know your ideas / tips or if I should give up and just let it add character to the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, from Minneapolis/Saint Paul if anyone knows a guy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iV4Ec.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iV4Ec.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15542" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T03:25:24.857" Title="Tank Dents - 69 Yamaha L5T" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-tank|yamaha|dent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-13T17:42:54.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2016-03-13T03:25:24.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a video with 4 methods to fix dents on motorcycle gas tanks. The hot glue method was mentioned in this video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The person in the video uses a hair drier and a can of compressed air for the first method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank that he is working on has a single wall in the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4th method is pretty interesting and it seems to be the most successful method for the Kawasaki tank he is working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy takes a blood pressure gauge he got off of Ebay and jams it in the hole of the tank. He pumps the gauge and it causes the dent to expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All credit goes to the creator of the video.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkbFhPrJ14w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkbFhPrJ14w&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T03:25:24.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T03:29:38.730" Score="3" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to remove the anti-glare coating on my LCD (using plastic polisher) because the previous owner probably used ammoniac based cleaner on it. After removing it with Novus plastic polisher, I found these micro-scratches / wear on the LCD. Tried to polish it as well, but no dice. I couldn't feel it with my nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, have you seen similar scratches and what could have caused this? Steel wool? Screen burn caused by a buffer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just being curious here, because I've put a plastic anti-glare and it hides the scratches very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdCCi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdCCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtdWJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtdWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SjKMQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SjKMQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T08:44:53.640" Title="What could have cause these scratches on my LCD?" Tags="|interior|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27148" CreationDate="2016-03-13T03:56:21.170" Score="6" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Daewoo car (from 1995) with a non working stock radio unit (a Philips DC508D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a &quot;slightly less old&quot; Pioneer DEH-2000R (from 1998) as a replacement.&#xA;None of them has any kind of ISO connector but I managed to find the wiring (the Pioneer seems like it had one, but the previous owner has cut the cables out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like some advice about three particular points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the &quot;proprietary connector&quot; I salvaged from the old Philips radio unit, the &quot;-&quot; of all 4 speakers are connected to the ground. Should I keep them this way or should I separate them before connecting the Pioneer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the Philips wiring, there was a 3A fuse in the ACC wire. The Pioneer has a 7A on the ACC wire and a 15A one on the &quot;backup&quot; wire (not sure about the name; that's the yellow wire which always provides 12V). I'm pretty sure keeping it in place won't cause any issue, but shouldn't I change it for something smaller? (like the 3A from the Philips unit). 15A seems kind of a lot to me, and regarding the previous cabling work, I suspect the previous owner just put in the first fuse he found that fitted inside... And what about the 7A one? should I also find something more reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a small box between the ground and ACC wires on the connector of the Philips (between the connector and the unit). It contains a small transformer and a capacitor (see picture below). Should I put it back between the Pioneer and the connector? I think I shouldn't but I have no experience with car electronics so any advice is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaYpR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaYpR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connector of the Philips radio unit with the transformer/capacitor unknown board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: if it helps, the Pioneer's service manual is easily available online (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/864371/Pioneer-Deh-2000r.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/864371/Pioneer-Deh-2000r.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15683" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T22:55:01.677" Title="Replacing a very old radio by a slightly less old one" Tags="|audio|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27124" CreationDate="2016-03-13T07:52:34.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Autistic is right. Cars that are retro-fitted with CNG systems tend to wear out the engine. This is because, they do not have the lubricating properties as petrol does. CNG also burns differently from Petrol, in the sense that the flame propogation, fuel burn properties are different. Since, the car was not designed keeping CNG in mind, you are eventually killing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the car came from the factory with a CNG kit installed, then its a different matter, because the manufacturers will account for the difference.&#xA;Your mechanic's suggestion is correct (sort of). Its not that cars that have run a long time on petrol will do better with CNG but that the cars that can run so much tend to be better built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you had one of those Premier Padminis or the really old Maruti 800s then you should still be okay, because those cars used to be &quot;hardier&quot;.&#xA;Be warned though, cars that have a CNG kit fitted on don't run as smoothly. If it came from the factory, that's a different case altogther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T07:52:34.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T10:36:42.157" Score="6" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars these days have a cooling fan that only runs when needed.The advantages in fuel economy ,warmup time ,pollution,HP are well documented elsewhere.The popular methods are the electric fan and the viscous coupled fan.The basic idea is that the fan runs when the engine is hot and does not when the engine is cold .If the car is running at speed the airflow through the radiator grill increases .At a certain road speed the flow may be enough to cool the engine anyway .What would this speed be ? Would it be worth it to shut down the fan at high road speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T12:49:18.387" Title="Thermostatic Cooling Fans" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T14:02:38.980" Score="5" ViewCount="6574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced rear shoes and drums on my 2012 jetta got the shoes on but new drums will not go on is there any kind of adjustment to get the drums to go on freely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15689" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T20:25:34.543" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T23:57:17.900" Title="2012 vw jetta rear brake shoes" Tags="|brakes|vw|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27130" CreationDate="2016-03-13T17:14:32.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Vehicle Speed Sensor sends signal to the Instrument Cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check pin 2 (blue/white) on the B connector for signal from the VSS. If there is signal you need a new cluster. If not you have to check continuity between the cluster and VSS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T20:09:48.387" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:09:48.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27160" CreationDate="2016-03-13T17:20:11.903" Score="6" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had the engine on my VW Golf TDI replaced with a reconditioned engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having start up problems for a while, I asked an independent mechanic to have a look. He found that one of the glow plugs was the wrong type - it was longer than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included an image of it, showing some damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEXKg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEXKg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since replacing with the correct glow plug, the car won't start. I'm worried that using the wrong glow plug for so long may have caused damage to the piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with the damage that can be caused by using a glow plug that is too long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15690" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-13T17:32:17.137" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:53:18.333" Title="Has wrong glow plug damaged piston?" Tags="|vw|diesel|golf|glowplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27123" CreationDate="2016-03-13T18:34:18.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are at the vehicle determining what is causing the sound should be easier. Below are some possible reasons for the noise you are hearing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All credit goes to both websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see the information from the website link below. It is difficult determining what type of problem it is with the recording. The information below should help narrow the problem down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Car Noises Diagnosis credit goes to carproblems.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carsproblems.com/diagnosis-car-problem/car-noises-diagnosis/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carsproblems.com/diagnosis-car-problem/car-noises-diagnosis/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Noises Diagnosis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of you experienced this thing that cars and vehicles create variety of noise that is one of major car problems. When cars and vehicles create noise, it means there is something damage in the components of cars and vehicles. Car maintenance can be expensive for you so you must try to diagnose most of the car problems yourself. You can learn diagnosing noise problem of cars by reviewing the information given below. Here we will discuss some noise problems that most of cars have with possible problems and their solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backfiring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect ignition timing, faulty ignition and leaking valves can be possible problem of this sound of vehicle. Have ignition and check a valve properly is the right way to solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clatter from engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sound problem may be caused by badly adjusted valves and insufficient engine oil. You should add oil to the engine or refer to it towards car mechanic for proper maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whining or chattering from engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sound problem occurs if camshaft drive belt is tensioned badly. To solve this problem, you must refer your vehicle to professional mechanical as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rattle when accelerating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Causes of this sound problem include wrong grade of fuel, engine overheating, incorrect ignition timing or other ignition faults. You should use higher grade of fuel to get rid of this noise problem of your car. Also refer it to mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knocking with engine which increases with engine speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn camshaft can be a major cause of create this noise problem in the vehicle so you must take your vehicle to mechanic to solve this noise problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screech when steering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power steering belt slipping can be a cause of screech when steering. You need to check it properly and go to mechanic for proper maintenance. However adjusting the belt properly can solve this sound problem of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moan from engine when steering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When power steer fluid level is too low, this sound problem usually occurs in the vehicles. So you just need to top up the fluid level for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roar or rasp under acceleration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blown exhausting is the main cause of occurring this noise problem. So keep check on exhaust to reduce this noise problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squeal or groan when braking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake components of car are worn or defective, this sound problem can occur with your vehicle. Referring the vehicle to mechanic is the best option for proper maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hiss from engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another sound problem that vehicle creates often and it caused by leak from coolant, air or vacuum. It is better to go to the mechanic for the solution of this sound problem of car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clicking from wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose hubcap and stone in hubcap can cause this noise problem with your vehicle so you need to tight the hubcap or remove stone from it to get rid of this sound problem of your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above are the most common sound problems of cars that every car owners have to face on and off and most of you may wait for this useful information to solve this ultimate problem of vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartalk.com/content/car-noise-emporium-27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cartalk.com/content/car-noise-emporium-27&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Car Noises Diagnosis credit (below) goes to cartalk.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noises you hear coming from the engine compartment/front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad Bearing in Timing Belt Tensioner: woh woh woh woh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad Turbo: boooOOOOOOooo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling Coolant: bllgh blllgggh blllllgggghh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Booster Failing: hissssssssss ssss ss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch Release Bearing on the Way Out: jee je je jeee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch Screech: screek, screek, screek&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting Rod that went through the Engine Block: clicketta clicketta clicketta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dieseling: blubBLUBblubBLUB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Knock: tuckaTHUCKtuckaTHUCKtucka&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Reving Up and Down: vooRRRR, vooRRR, vooRRR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fly Wheel: gurrEENK, gurrEENK, gurrENK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose Belt: YEEeeEEeeEEeeEEeeEEee!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low Coolant: bwwob bwwwobbubwub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misfire: puhVRooPuhHoo puhVROOpuhHOO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Steering Pump Going: nnnghuh nnnguh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticky Lifters: dicka, dicka, dicka, dicka&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer Case on the Way Out: glaghhghgghhh woongghhh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water Pump: grrgula, grrgul,grrgula, vum wum wum wum wum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weak Battery: wurrrrRRRRrrrrwuRRRrrr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiper Transmission Sound: eee eee eeee eeee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum Leak: vwishhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T18:34:18.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27149" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:06:37.013" Score="6" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on a team and we're working on a car. Our car has a motorcycle engine and its gear-shift mechanism is electronic, controlled by a microcontroller. Now, we are figuring how can we make the microcontroller know which gear the engine is on. We thought about calculating the ratio between engine's rpm and wheel speed, but this method can be imprecise in some situations. Is there any more accurate method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15693" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T00:50:28.073" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T00:50:28.073" Title="How to make an electronic system know which gear the engine is on?" Tags="|engine|honda|shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27146" CreationDate="2016-03-13T19:40:52.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how you will make this work but you could keep track of the shift fork position or you could measure the angle of the shift drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2CybLSrN5Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2CybLSrN5Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could install proximity sensors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T19:40:52.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27137" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:55:01.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It would be best to separate all the negative speaker wires, the circuit diagram doesn't indicate that they are all common inside, so you could possibly cause damage if you connect them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) There should be a 10A fuse on the rear of the stereo.  This is also protecting the backup wire, so leaving the 15A in place will be fine.  7A does appear to be too high a value for the fuse, The 3A would be better, or even 1A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) There is nothing in the Philips manual to suggest you need the coil and capacitor, so I would leave it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T22:55:01.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27146" CreationDate="2016-03-13T23:14:22.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine had a gear position sensor or you were considering installing one, i'd assume you wouldn't be asking this question. Anyhow, still , if you can install one, that'd be your easiest option, - the sensor is a rotary potentiometer. Or you can use any other rotary encoders you please.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The method you mention can be made pretty accurate, though, i'd still like to know your worries. &#xA;Compare the Engine RPM with your front or rear sprocket rotation to estimate the gear. Doing this before the differential removes any iffy conditions. You can use VR sensors or hall effect sensors for the same.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You need to account for clutching transitions in your code. Since it's an electronic system that's changing the gears, you already know when to check (when the ecu initiates a gear change) and which gear to expect. You should be able to get all this to work with rudimentary logic. &#xA;I'l expand on this answer if needed. Please comment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T23:14:22.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:20:28.370" Score="3" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was driving down my block when all my light on my car turned on ( oil , brake , battery, ) and right after that my steering wheel got hard and the car turned off but i turned it back on right after . What could it be ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14398" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T06:43:53.790" Title="My car shut off while driving" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T14:09:55.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27166" CreationDate="2016-03-14T06:24:34.097" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the key to 'ON', the electrics turn on.  Lights, radio, fans, the works.  Everything is normal.  If I turn the key to 'START', then the whole car dies.  Everything goes out, lights, fans, dash lights, everything.  Turning it off then back to 'ON', and I get nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave it for a few hours, I can turn it back to ON and get the electronics will turn on.  I've checked the fuses and they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="692" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:15:19.517" Title="Car dies immediately when started" Tags="|electrical|pontiac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T11:48:34.530" Score="2" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a Citroen C4 1.6 litres petrol engine. I have been experiencing rough idling, engine vibration and also engine stalls when accelerating and it will pick up speed gradually. Does anyone have any idea of where to diagnose and fix the issue in Coventry area without the mechanic requiring my arm and leg? I have checked on the forum and realised it is much more than i can do by myself or ask someone who doesn't have much mechanical knowledge handle for me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T14:00:21.100" Title="Rough Idling in Citroen C4" Tags="|rough-idle|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-15T01:25:26.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27155" CreationDate="2016-03-14T14:00:21.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately we're not able to provide shopping assistance here as it becomes out of date too quickly, and is too localised. Your best bet is to try something like 'checkatrade', or ask around friends/colleagues to see who they recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T14:00:21.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:50:15.190" Score="6" ViewCount="2807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha XJ600 diversion with a sidecar fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently had to fit two new tyres and a new rear sprocket for MOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain seemed fine afterwards for a while but all of a sudden started making a terrible noise. When I stopped and inspected it seemed the chain was really loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is pushed forward in gear(even with clutch pulled in) the chain is tight, but when rolled backwards it is really loose. It's also loose when rolled back or forward in neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thought about just tightening the chain but I'm worried that if I do then it will be too tight when on the go and could snap or cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the wheel alignment?&#xA;Is the chain just loose and tightening up when tension is put on through pushing forward?&#xA;Might the front sprocket be damaged?&#xA;Or something completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the sidecar fitted it's awkward to get in to work on the bike (to check front sprocket etc) so thought I would ask and see if anyone knew what might be the problem first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Steven&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15701" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T23:55:29.137" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T23:55:29.137" Title="Motorbike chain tight when in gear pushed forward but loose when rolled backward" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27144" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:53:18.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was any significant contact between the glow plug and the piston, I think you'd know it right away (horrible noise followed by horrible quiet). I'd double-check the glow plug wiring and electrically check the fuses -- fuses can fail without blowing, and the only way to know for sure is to check for continuity. I'd also suggest you double-check your fuel pump relay, or check your fuel pressure if you can. Can you hook up the glow plug while it's removed and verify that it does glow (or at least heat up)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:53:18.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:32:41.323" Score="3" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking all over trying to see if there is any information but I haven't found it. I'm about to replace the spark plugs, but I need to know the correct gap. I purchased NGK 4696 Iridium spark plugs. I'm not sure if the same gap will give the same amount of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15702" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T07:54:33.280" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T07:54:33.280" Title="How do I determine the spark plug gap for a 1999 Mercedes E320 4matic Sedan?" Tags="|sparkplugs|mercedes-benz|e320|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27159" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:47:36.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High Spot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to guess, you have a 'high spot' in your chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cause&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High spots have occur for a number of a reasons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ongoing poor care&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low quality chain&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'Clutch Dumping' which causes stretching of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water penetration of a few rollers leading to rust and inconsistent where on those rollers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remedy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, adjust your chain to the highest point of tension.  Roll the bike forward or backward in neutral and find where the chain is tightest.  Adjust the rear wheel distance at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Long term&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you will want to always change both of your sprockets and your chain at the same time.  Why, you ask?  Because they wear together as a team, so to speak.  The surfaces of the rollers in the chain and distance of the rollers within the chain change with wear over time.  As your chain wears it mates into the sprocket and they all wear together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only change your sprocket and retain the old chain you can get a condition where the rollers on the chain are only 'loading' the last few teeth of the sprocket before they chain and sprocket separate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If buy a bit of a higher-end chain your chances of getting stretch and having high and low spots on your chain over time will be reduced.  With the most expensive chains that I purchase for my motorcycles I have nixed this issue and it doesn't occur for me.  Typically chains with o-rings between the plates will have a longer life span than non o-ring chains as they will prevent moisture and rust in the roller because they are sealed with grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:47:36.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:04:36.050" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 Citroen C4, 1400cc petrol model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I changed my key FOB's battery, car was running fine. A day later I unlock the car by using the FOB and then try to start the engine.  It turns over fine but the engine won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an explanation as to why and how this occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15704" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T17:34:09.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:34:09.773" Title="Motor has been serviced in time and a day later the car won't start" Tags="|starting|citroen|keyless-entry|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-24T16:35:22.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:07:33.390" Score="3" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '07 Silverado. Both rear wheel brake cylinders blew apart. I fitted new ones along with new shoes. I have bled the brakes but my pedal still goes to floor. What else can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15705" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T18:02:08.923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T13:12:25.120" Title="I have replaced my brake cylinders, but the brake pedal goes to the floor" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:33:22.647" Score="4" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having issues with this car, so I am reaching out to masses out there who could share some of their wisdom to help me understand the actual issue with this car. It has 262K miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue is that The Coolant sprinkles back from Rad cap while I test drive car to work for 20 mins on Highways at 75/80 MPH Speed @ 2500+ RPM. If I am driving it at less than 2500 RPM then there is not much issue but other wise it sprinkles under pressure and then I have to refill the coolant every 7-10 days which should not be the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12272/the-mysterious-overheating-honda-civic&quot;&gt;I looked at this question&lt;/a&gt; to see which symptoms would match in my case. I don't find anything specific there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I showed it to the mechanic &amp;amp; he asked me to replace the radiator and hoses, which I did, expecting that the problem would get resolved. It still remain as it was. So far, I have already spent close to 750 $ on this car and the mechanic keeps on saying to try fixing something else with a &quot;hope&quot; that it might solve the problem. I love the car and want to keep it for another 50K miles at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for the car to behave such a way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any milky solution in the engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any sweet smell in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no chocolate color oil mixing into the reservoir tank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But, when the coolant sprinkles out back from the Rad Cap on to the Hot        Engine and other parts, It generates white fumes/smoke which bothers me because I am loosing coolant, and I have to refill every week or so. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a normal oil leak from the engine as it is a high milage car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me understand the reason of the problem and the possible price range for repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15703" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:07:49.593" Title="Honda Civic 2002 Coolant sprinkles back from Rad cap" Tags="|honda|civic|coolant|cooling-system|pressure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27152" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:15:19.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of your connections at the battery is bad. Your vehicle should most likely be a side post battery. Loosen the battery bolt a little, wiggle the connections, then tighten it back down and see if that helps. Ensure both sides are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:15:19.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27167" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:22:51.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant can occasionally boil under excessive heat. Under those conditions, coolant will flow from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/tags/cooling-system/info&quot;&gt;cooling system&lt;/a&gt; and overflow into the coolant-reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following artist's rendition shows how the reservoir is used as an expansion tank to keep the level of fluid in the system constant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJnfA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJnfA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="10501" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T10:32:27.923" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T10:32:27.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27168" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:22:51.707" Score="0" Body="An overflow container for coolant." OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T18:22:51.707" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T18:22:51.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:57:31.297" Score="6" ViewCount="4431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mercedes B class diesel 2010. I have had it since August 2015 from a dealer who serviced it, and everything is running fine. I have noticed a warning saying drop oil level, so I measured the oil and it's just over the full dipstick mark. I've been getting this warning for 2 weeks now, do have I anything to worry about? Will the problem go away on its own or do I need to do anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the dipstick and the oil is just over the top mark ,the oil looks ok (black) no foam etc and no smoke from exhaust the warning sign comes on when on long drives (on rare occasions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15707" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T21:17:28.317" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T23:51:34.210" Title="High oil warning in Mercedes B class diesel" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:41:23.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too much oil can block flow passages, cause overheating due to foaming, and other problems.  If it's only a little bit high, you probably haven't caused major damage.  But I'd drain a bit out as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:41:23.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27164" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:43:11.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As JPHi1618 said, you'll have to bleed everything, from the master cylinder on down.  And the master cylinder may require &quot;bench bleeding&quot;.  Google it to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:43:11.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19508" CreationDate="2016-03-14T19:48:43.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a guess, but it sounds like heat-induced vapor-lock to me.  You didn't remove any sheet-metal shielding from between the carb and the motor did you?  If so, put it back.  And clean any airflow ports anywhere near the carburetor, to ensure that the airflow from the flywheel blows well over and around the carb.  I'm guessing you're either missing some heat shielding or you have some gunk blocking the airflow and the carb is overheating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:48:43.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:02:09.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the fan is thermostatically controlled, it will automatically shut off when the natural air flow through the radiator is sufficient to keep the engine cool.  The speed at which this occurs will vary based on the car and weather on a given day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never heard of anyone disabling the fan.  I have heard of people partially blocking the radiator opening in sub-freezing weather to prevent over-cooling the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:02:09.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27176" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:02:54.987" Score="5" ViewCount="1468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which oil I should use? I have no reference guide in which I could tell what kind of oil to use. I live in Slovenia where lowest temperature is around -15°C and the highest at around 40°C. The thing I am really wondering about is what viscosity level to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5W-40 be a good choice or should I go with a 5W-30?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; For anyone that's interested in which one I chose, I just went to &lt;a href=&quot;http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Castrol Oil Selector&lt;/a&gt;, selected my vehicle and got &lt;strong&gt;Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL&lt;/strong&gt; as a result, I just went with that one as it was &lt;strong&gt;5W-30&lt;/strong&gt; as stated on my engine, was for all engine types and supports a wide variety of standards: ACEA C3, MB-APPROVAL 229.31, MB-APPROVAL 229.51, PORSCHE C30, &lt;strong&gt;VW 504 00&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;VW 507 00&lt;/strong&gt;, FULFILS THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE FORMER &lt;strong&gt;VW 503 01&lt;/strong&gt; SPECIFICATION.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15708" LastEditorUserId="15708" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T14:54:50.207" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T14:54:50.207" Title="Audi A3 2001 1.9 TDI ASV - which motor oil to use?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27164" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:14:07.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly common on GMs when all fluid leaks from the system that you have to bleed the ABS Bypass Modulator Valve. This requires a scan tool with bi-directional controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:14:07.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27174" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:17:53.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the 5w40 is fine for that car, but more importantly make sure the oil meets the VW 507.00 spec.  These specifications are very important for turbo diesels, so don't use just any oil.  If you have any doubts, I would just go buy some oil from the VW/Audi dealer in your area.  Paying a little more for oil is better than the alternative, but you should be able to find some properly spec'd oil at you local parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the Castrol Edge fits the bill - I just wanted to point out the important part for anyone else reading this in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:17:53.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:41:56.787" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you recently added oil or had it serviced, I would be concerned. I would wonder what is raising the oil level. Do you have any signs of engine oil mixing with coolant? Does the oil have a tan colored foamy appearance? This could be an indication of coolant leaking into the crankcase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T20:41:56.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T20:45:21.793" Score="4" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old drill attachment nibbler that I used 10+ years ago when I did bodywork. But the blade broke &amp;amp; I didn't replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd now like to find a replacement blade, but can't identify the make/model - I've posted some images to see if anyone can help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/70HBH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/70HBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nibbler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15711" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T11:35:28.033" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T11:35:28.033" Title="Nibbler Identification" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12014" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:07:10.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a dual AC 2010 Ford Edge with both thermostats set for AC, the passenger side blew hot air, the driver side cold. I thought at first it may be a faulty blend door actuator on the passenger side. I changed a very dirty cabin filter and started the engine.....immediate cold air blew on the passenger side! Not sure if a dirty cabin filter can confuse the actuator sensor but my system now works perfectly.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15712" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T21:07:10.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T21:51:05.087" Score="3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only drive this car on weekends, and if I have only done short journeys there is a risk of a flat battery.  This happened to me two days ago, and standing on a street in the cold waiting for roadside assistance I resolved to buy a booster pack (A new battery would be a good idea too but this one is not that old, and one of these booster things would be much easier to keep charged than either taking my battery out every few months, or running a charge cable from my house to my car,  which isn't usually possible to park near enough to my house)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the &quot;Sealey RS131 12V 900A Emergency Power Pack&quot; on Amazon,  and at least one of the question answerers said he was able to start a 3 litre merc with it.  But another one said don't trust it for anything over 2.5 litres, and mentioned the &quot;Clarke 4000 Heavy Duty Jump Start Engine Jump Starter&quot; (&quot;1500 amps peak output / 700 amps boost at 12v&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really understand what the numbers mean.  Is there a recommended minimum volts, amps for jump starting this particular 3 litre petrol engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a side note, the roadside assistance guy first tried his booster on my car - didn't work,  ended up having to hook up his van &lt;em&gt;at the same time as the booster&lt;/em&gt; to get the car started,   but to be fair it was probably very flat,  I had in desperation been trying it over and over again before he arrived, which probably drained it further.  Add to that the fact my car is like a human having a stroke - windows wind down, alarm goes off, etc when the battery is low - all contributing to draining it further.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T10:45:38.423" Title="Reccommended booster for 2000 Jaguar S type (3 litre petrol, UK)" Tags="|battery|jaguar|s-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:32:48.663" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2002 VW Polo automatic, and in the last few days it's really been struggling to start when it's cold, and then this morning the car would jolt on acceleration every now and again, when the revs got above 3000 or so, suddenly lurching forward a little, then continuing smoothly. Does anyone know, are these problems likely to be related, and is it something I could fix myself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The car also had the battery replaced about six months ago, and the alternator about three months ago, and just passed its Warrant of Fitness with no issues last month, and no lights are coming on the dashboard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3abOL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3abOL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under the bonnet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15715" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T00:44:33.153" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T00:44:33.153" Title="Engine jolting and struggle starting" Tags="|engine|starting|vw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T00:15:58.017" Score="5" ViewCount="5303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the P0420 code on my 1998 Honda Civic DX (catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1). I want to be able to properly diagnose the problem myself without just throwing new parts at it. A new catalyst is fairly expensive. I used a scan tool to log some data from the O2 sensors as I drove around. My question is how do I interpret this data and can I determined that it is the catalyst and not the O2 sensors that have failed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I let the engine idle for 15 minutes to reach operating temperature. This is the graph of the O2 sensors at idle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtSch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtSch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graph of O2 sensor voltage at idle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research I can say that the upstream O2 sensor (red) look okay. It is fluctuating between lean and rich conditions. The downstream sensor (green) is stuck at around 0.9V. I know that the sensor is supposed to be a flat line around 0.5V so this is a problem. It is not clear to me whether this is due to a failed catalyst of a failed sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a graph of normal driving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHQj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHQj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graph of O2 sensor voltage under normal driving&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a graph of hard acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D69ws.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D69ws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graph of O2 sensor voltage under hard acceleration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, here is a graph of coasting down a hill. You can see where the computer shuts off the fuel injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYn7c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYn7c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graph of O2 sensor voltage while coasting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These graphs make me think that the downstream O2 sensor (green) is not faulty. Especially the graph from coasting. When the computer shuts off the fuel injectors, the intake becomes extremely lean and both sensors respond immediately. If the downstream sensor was faulty, it should stay stuck at a high voltage. Is this interpretation correct? Can I conclude that I need to replace the catalyst?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T04:28:29.383" Title="1998 Honda Civic - O2 sensor or catalyst failure?" Tags="|honda|civic|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|p0420|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2016-03-15T00:37:29.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent graphs.  The after catalyst sensor shows normal mixture readings. The PCM can and will operate the system lean or rich depending on operating conditions. The voltage will rarely be held at any intermediate voltage, such as 0.5 volt. This is an urban legend not based on engineering fact. &#xA;The rear sensor voltage should remain steady at any steady rpm. It can be rich or lean but should be a flat line. The graphs here indicate rapid mixture change variation which strongly suggests catalyst failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several other test need to be completed to make sure that problems in other areas are not present. A more detailed process of catalyst testing follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Verify proper fuel control. This is best done by calculating Lambda from tailpipe gas analyzer readings. Since this is not commonly available most will substitute fuel trim, make sure that the trims are less than 10% when long term is added to the average of short term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Verify that there are no exhaust system leaks anywhere near the mixture (oxygen) sensors or the catalyst. Leaks will cause false readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)Verify that both sensors are in good condition. That they will move quickly from rich to lean when the mixture is changed. Usually this is done with a snap throttle. They should both go below 0.1 volts and above 0.9 volts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Monitor the pre and post catalyst sensors at 2500 rpm with the engine and catalyst fully warmed and held at steady rpm. The rear sensor should stay smooth. It can be at any voltage and can change voltage but should do so very often, more that 30 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T04:28:29.383" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T04:28:29.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T01:06:52.087" Score="5" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a down payment to purchase a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and while viewing the car when the battery was disconnected with the car running the car died. Does that mean it's the alternator? Because if I'm not mistaken that would be the only way that would happen. But the tow yard I'm purchasing it from claims that it's something electronic with the car's computer from the battery being dead. Is that possible or am I being treated as a fool? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15717" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:51:59.330" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:41:16.667" Title="2002 Hyundai Elantra" Tags="|electrical|hyundai|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4859" CreationDate="2016-03-15T01:34:21.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 Corolla had a similar issue with the idle.  Most noticeably when I would come to stop signs or stop lights, the idle would dip way down, it would stutter for a second or two, then raise back up.  I replaced my spark plugs with factory Toyota plugs and it resolved the issue COMPLETELY!  The idle no longer dips, and it stays running smooth every time I come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15718" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:34:21.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27194" CreationDate="2016-03-15T01:48:49.423" Score="7" ViewCount="3317" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working on diagnosing an evap/emission/fuel system problem on my Toyota 2003 Corolla. More on that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27060&quot;&gt;in this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 3/2, I saw a mechanic use his handheld OBD to read a code P0420. On 3/12, without any code resets, I got my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00YY7M4AO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ozzy OBD reader&lt;/a&gt; and read code P0440 using &lt;a href=&quot;http://torque-bhp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Torque&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that sometimes later codes change because of faults in earlier codes, but I don't believe I've ever seen the primary &lt;em&gt;and only&lt;/em&gt; fault change. Is this normal variance that I (because of my inexperience) just haven't seen, or is it indicative of something deeper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3/15&lt;/strong&gt;: After a reset drive cycle, the new code read is P0446.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3/16&lt;/strong&gt;: After a reset drive cycle, the new code read is P0420. Have confirmed cat failure, so this code seems correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T13:57:09.317" Title="Erratic single fault code: P0420, P0440, P0446. Normal variance, or indicative of something deeper?" Tags="|obd-ii|mil|p0420|p0446|p0440|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25620" CreationDate="2016-03-15T01:53:17.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lack of a more informed answer, and after buying my own timing light and fixing what the shop did (timing bolt was completely loose so timing was whatever it wanted to be that day): It is electronic. I ended up setting the timing to 36 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at high RPMs. It makes for a nice, smooth, quite run on the highway at 65 mph. It does run more cold-blooded around town and takes a while to warm up at this setting. But it's sure worth it when commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link was, among the many out there, about the only one that ended up being helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volksworld.com/tech-guides/vw-diy-guides/setting-ignition-timing-with-a-strobe-3584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.volksworld.com/tech-guides/vw-diy-guides/setting-ignition-timing-with-a-strobe-3584&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:53:17.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T03:33:44.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to get my muffler off of my Yamaha L5T but am having no luck. Any tips or tricks to getting this off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15542" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T18:14:31.787" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T18:14:31.787" Title="Motorcycle muffler is stuck" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|yamaha|muffler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T08:09:20.543" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 89 camaro I personally don't think it's a fuel pump issue and I recently changed the relay, but whenever I turn the key over sometimes I hear the fuel pump turn on sometimes I don't. Could it be a bad sensor or possible the fuel pump if I'm wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added from comments/answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 1: The car stalls while driving but usually cranks right back up but now it doesn't at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: If the fuel pump not giving enough pressure do I have to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 3: Yes it's OBD1 it's just been sitting there for so long and I've been trying to solve the problem myself, I'm just gonna take it to a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15724" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:55:04.173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:55:04.173" Title="fuel system problem" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|fuel-system|camaro|pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27189" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:20:25.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhausts can be difficult to remove. In many cases constant heating/cooling has burned off any coatings and the bare metal has corroded or rusted the nuts and studs together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the exhaust has cylinder head studs with exposed nuts you can try several things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start by soaking them with a penetrant oil. Only do this when the exhaust is cool enough to touch. You can then try tapping with a hammer or using an impact driver to free them up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the nuts with a blowtorch and try to undo them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut, chisel or drill the nuts off. This is my preferred method. Nuts are easier to replace than broken studs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A combination of the above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time. The more force you apply the bigger the risk if stripping or snapping a stud. Try not to damage the stud thread as they're harder to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you round off the nuts, they're junk anyway. So it doesnt matter if you destroy them in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do have them off its worth cleaning up the threads with a tap and die set. Replace rusty nuts. And when reassembling use something like a copper thread grease so its easier next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T09:20:25.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26572" CreationDate="2016-03-15T09:47:12.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided it is not a stressed or load bearing member...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be ok glueing or plastic welding it however you like. As long as it is securely attached to the bike. You can probably drill holes in it and use cable ties to hold it in place. Beyond that its really about what it looks like and how much it bothers you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the important part is to ensure that the filter element seals properly with the engine intake so that all air drawn into the engine is filtered. If it isnt then dust and other fine material will be sucked into your engine which will increase wear and reduce the life of your engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T09:47:12.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27187" CreationDate="2016-03-15T11:13:50.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The P0420 and P0440 are completely unrelated (other than both being related to emissions). The P0420 is having to do with catalyst function. The P0440 having to do with EVAP system. There is no way for one code to have morphed into the other code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0420 can appear and disappear over time due to the nature of what is being seen by the computer. If the after cat O2 is out of whack a little bit for a period of time, the code will trip. Once cleared, it might not come back for a long time, or it might come right back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0440 could be as simple as the gas cap not sealing correctly. You car is new enough, I doubt this is an issue, but it's always good to check the easy things first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the P0420 doesn't reappear, I wouldn't worry about it. In the mean time, the following could be at issue due to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P0440&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;The gas cap is not installed or working properly&#xA;The purge solenoid has failed&#xA;The canister is plugged and not working properly&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try the following to see if it will clear permanently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the code, and drive for a day&#xA;    and see if the codes come back.&#xA;Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses&#xA;Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid&#xA;Check and/or replace the sensor&#xA;Check and/or replace the purge valve&#xA;Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T11:13:50.870" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27191" CreationDate="2016-03-15T11:18:28.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most fuel injected cars where you can hear the pump turn on, once the system is up to pressure, the pump won't re-engage until it needs to. One &lt;em&gt;easy&lt;/em&gt; way to test this is to turn the car on, but don't start, first thing in the morning. If you hear the pump, good thus far. Next, tap the key over to just barely engage the starter, but not enough to start the engine. You should hear the pump kick in &lt;em&gt;every time you do this&lt;/em&gt;. If you don't hear it, you have an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to check your fuel pump, put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail (back passenger side). This is really hard to do on the TPI system, because the plenum sits right over the top of the Schraeder valve. You'll need an elbow fitting to attach to the rail. Pressure should be about 43.5psi without the engine started, but key on. It will be about 5-10psi lower while running at idle (IIRC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T11:18:28.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2016-03-15T13:20:17.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 90% sure it's a problem with DPF filter. Problem with increasing oil level is quite common with all modern diesel engines when you rarely drive out of city. Also, after some mileage it simply won't work properly anymore and needs to be changed for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15731" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T13:20:17.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27215" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:04:32.853" Score="8" ViewCount="182803" Body="&lt;p&gt;The plastic mirror surface came free from the side mirror housing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a special type of adhesive that should be used for this?  Or with a good cleaning would most adhesives work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastActivityDate="2021-06-07T14:07:15.130" Title="Side mirror fell off, what adhesive should I use to re-attach it" Tags="|wing-mirrors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:31:28.550" Score="5" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Civic .... In hot weather, right after work, my car won't start. It just makes a click noise by the relay (solenoid?)...  I replaced the battery and it worked fine....  Then, a few weeks later, I got the same problem when as soon as I drive and motor is hot and I switch it off and want to start it again, then it just make a click sound by the relay. If I bridge the selonoid then it starts perfect...  I replaced the ignition and the selonoid but still have the same problem. Please help me solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15735" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T17:13:22.140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:34:01.190" Title="honda civic 2000 model" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:52:36.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use something from the Sikaflex range:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Sikaflex 221&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elise-shop.com/sikaflex221-adhesivesealant-p-506.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.elise-shop.com/sikaflex221-adhesivesealant-p-506.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is used for Lotus Elise repairs and bonding various bodywork. It has some flex but is very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most mirror glasses attach via clips into the housing, so make sure either a clip hasn't broken and requires fixing or it just needs pushing back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T16:52:36.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27209" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:55:53.460" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having difficulty with a stereo cord that I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this might be some kind of USB. Does anyone know what kind of cord/connection this is?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AIML.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AIML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15736" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T17:23:24.713" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T19:51:08.003" Title="What type of Stero Cord / Port do I have here?" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:58:27.520" Score="5" ViewCount="1704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Honda Civic LX. &#xA;I started to feel a vibration when braking, so I bought new rotors and pads from Honda. After installing the rotors and pads, I put the car in reverse and used the brake I heard some loud metal knocking. Then I drove foreword and then when I used the brakes again, the same noise would happen. Every time I changed the wheel direction and pressed the brake I heard the metal noise. But only once until I change the steering wheel direction. &#xA;Then, a few days after driving like that, my car started to vibrate again, plus a continuous metal clicking noise that started after I changed the rotors and pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inspected the pads, rotors, and shims multiple times, but everything looks perfect. Tight and well lubed, but I cant understand the these 2 problems. Does anyone have an idea what the root cause of the noise and vibration might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15737" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T17:21:31.330" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T21:07:01.333" Title="Vibration when braking" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27200" CreationDate="2016-03-15T17:53:28.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If making a bridge across the solenoid always works, then you either need a new starter relay or you have a bad connection in one of the following places -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small connector on the starter solenoid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connections to the fuse in the starter circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connections to the starter relay (on the switched side, not the coil)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible there is a bad connection to the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T19:55:01.027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T19:55:01.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:14:37.157" Score="6" ViewCount="7902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone knows that apparently a bike looses it's power with age.&#xA;But I refuse to agree to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't proper care allow your bike to maintain its pickup over the years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 2014 Pulsar 220 ; been servicing it at legitimate Bajaj service centers. It has run about 19000 km. &#xA;Of late pickup seems choked.&#xA;I had the carburetor washed, but doesn't seem to do any good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply changing the engine oil from bajaj to Motul hasn't done much good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? How do I get back that power pickup which as we all know used to be this bikes specialty ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15740" LastEditorUserId="15740" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T18:50:13.847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T18:50:13.847" Title="Engine weakening and suggested maintenance for Bajaj pulsar 220F" Tags="|motorcycle|power|pulsar|bajaj|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27202" CreationDate="2016-03-15T19:51:08.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to be the connector to the external DSP, pictured below the stereo here. Specifically, the second and fourth ports from the left. The stereo should have included two 20' cables for these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJXIr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJXIr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For posterity, I derived the model to be Kenwood Excelon KVT-915DVD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12438" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T19:51:08.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27203" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:21:35.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the noise, I'd suggest one of your caliper brackets is loose enough it will shift under the torque of the vehicle (making the noise), but not enough when just checking it out. Secondly, I bet your brakes are vibrating again because you didn't bed the new brakes correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T20:21:35.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27054" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:39:06.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, the bigger battery won't cut it.  But you may be able to play the game from the other end: use a headlight bulb with a lower power draw.  Some LED bulbs draw less power than their incandescent counterparts for a given light output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T20:39:06.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27214" CreationDate="2016-03-15T21:07:01.690" Score="3" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;1987 Dodge Dakota power steering fluid type ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15742" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T23:17:04.313" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T23:17:04.313" Title="What type of power steering fluid do I use in my 1987 Dodge Dakota, 3.9 L, 2 wheel drive pickup?" Tags="|dodge|power-steering|dakota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24478" CreationDate="2016-03-15T21:20:03.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like idle jet is clogged. You should pull the carbs and go through them carefully. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them, they are a great indicator as to the condition of the fuel delivery from the carbs.&#xA;Check this page out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15742" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T21:20:03.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27212" CreationDate="2016-03-15T22:04:34.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cardone.com/docs/default-source/product-pgs/psfluidtypes.pdf?sfvrsn=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt;, all pre-1998 Chrysler/Dodge vehicles should be using plain old power steering fluid. Those after 1998 should be using ATF-4 unless specified differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: The Crossfire should use Pentosin CHF 11S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T22:04:34.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:22:17.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gorilla glue or Loctite should work well. Loctite is used on airliners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/did-you-know/about-loctite/airplanes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/did-you-know/about-loctite/airplanes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// Information below from the website link above. \\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Did you know about Loctite and airplanes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From commercial airlines to space shuttles, Loctite’s adhesives are industry leaders in aerospace manufacturing. These toughened, engineering glues are used to join vital parts of the aircraft together such as engine components, wing flaps, landing gear doors and internal fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Loctite is trusted to provide secure and impact resistant bonding in an industry where there can be no margin for error. Metal, plastic, wood, glass and rubber are attached with exceptional strength, providing resistance to corrosion, chemicals, thermal shock and extreme temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some steps from eHow to ensure a side mirror is installed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_6798177_glue-side-mirror.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_6798177_glue-side-mirror.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to Glue a Side View Mirror&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By Brenda Priddy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A side view mirror is a necessary piece of equipment on any car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The side view mirror allows the driver to see behind and to the sides of the car, which prevents accidents while changing lanes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Side view mirrors must be present and complete to pass a car inspection. When a side view mirror becomes damaged, it is important to replace the mirror right away to prevent accidents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replacing a side view mirror is a simple project that anyone can do at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Things You'll Need&#xA;  Non-latex construction silicone adhesive&#xA;  Replacement mirror&#xA;  Large, flat head screwdriver&#xA;  Heat gun&#xA;  Bucket&#xA;  Work gloves&#xA;  Masking tape&#xA;  Safety goggles&#xA;  Extension cord (optional)&#xA;  Shop rags&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the old mirror from the frame. Wear work gloves and safety goggles, when removing the old mirror, for safety. Place a large bucket under the mirror to catch any broken glass pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Connect a heat gun to a nearby electrical outlet. Use an extension cord, if necessary, to reach the outlet and mirror. Heat the surface of the mirror with the heat gun until the surface of the mirror is hot to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scrape away the mirror pieces with a large, flat head screwdriver. Try to remove one piece at a time. If the mirror is still in one or two solid pieces, then hit the mirror with the back of the screwdriver to break it into smaller pieces for easier removal. Scrape the pieces out one by one until they are all removed. If necessary, re-heat the surface of the mirror if the adhesive hardens again before all of the pieces were removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clean away any remaining glue by wiping the surface of the mirror with a wet rag. Do not use chemical products on the mirror housing or the adhesive may not stick when you glue the new mirror. Wipe down both sides of the mirror as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apply five beads of silicone to the back of the mirror. Place one bead on each corner and one in the middle. Use a bead about 3/8 of an inch in diameter and apply it ½ inch from each mirror edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Press the mirror firmly into the mirror housing for about 30 seconds; however, do not apply too much pressure or the mirror may break again. Wrap the entire mirror housing and mirror with masking tape to hold the mirror in place so it does not fall out before the glue dries. Leave the tape over the mirror for 24 hours before removing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;References&#xA;  Auto Glass: Car Mirror Repair&#xA;  Nichols Tip: Side-View Mirror Glass Removal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;// End of eHow article and all credit goes to the eHow author mentioned above \\  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T17:58:28.387" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:58:28.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27217" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:23:21.737" Score="5" ViewCount="6068" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's Mini has a leak in the coolant recovery tank, and she has been told by the dealer that her car is at risk of overheating without the coolant recovery tank.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Frankly, I don't believe it. Cars decades ago didn't have a coolant recovery tank, and there was always some amount of air mixed with the coolant. The coolant recovery tank serves two purposes: it prevents coolant from dripping on the ground (and thus being washed into the environment and eaten by wildlife), and keeps air out of the engine (thus making the cooling system more efficient at absorbing heat), but I don't believe it is absolutely necessary.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, will modern engines overheat if there is no coolant recovery tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T03:12:21.660" Title="Will an engine overheat if it has no coolant recovery tank?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27216" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:30:20.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr;&lt;/strong&gt; Not directly, but yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a recovery or overflow tank is to allow for expansion of the coolant, then to recover it back into the radiator as things cool off. If the tank is not there (or it all leaks out), the radiator is pushing it out onto the ground without the ability to recover any of it. When things cool off, it sucks air back into the system. The air can cause hot spots with in the engine, same as if you haven't completely or properly burped the coolant system after you refill the antifreeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may take some time, but sooner or later you'll have a great enough lack of coolant and your car will overheat. The only way around this is if you are checking and refilling every day before you drive your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you can seal the crack in your recovery tank until you can purchase a new one. There are plenty of sealants on the market which will do the job for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T00:30:20.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:37:23.273" Score="7" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 camry LE (6 cylinder) that has a major overheating problem.  I managed to rule out the thermostat, leaks, radiator, and fans as the cause of the overheating.  But the water pump has me stuck...On my engine, I have to take off the whole front of my engine to get access to it, and it is driven by the timing belt.  The timing belt is fine, old (16 years, I bought new one today) but still doing its job.  Being that the water pump is belt-driven, how could the pump fail to circulate coolant?  If the belt spins the little pulley, the fan inside the pump has to spin too right?  Am I missing something here?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T10:14:09.953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:30:31.257" Title="Belt driven Water pump failure?" Tags="|toyota|overheating|camry|water-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27218" CreationDate="2016-03-16T00:53:23.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I need to do more studying before I post here.  I was under the assumption that the teeth-side of the timing belt was driving the water pump.  In fact, the smooth side of the belt is driving the pump, and especially if the belt or pump is very old like in my case. It is possible that the belt is either not causing enough traction to move the pump or the pump is stuck, and can't be moved by the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T16:30:31.257" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:30:31.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:26:23.093" Score="8" ViewCount="4657" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a Toyota Vitz 2007 and it has 80k KM on it. I usually drive short trips (about 5km) most of the time in a low traffic road. Car drives mostly fine in these short trips. But, if I drive for about 2 hours in a congested road with frequent stops, engine starts to hesitate when idle and even stall sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hesitation is more apparent if I apply breaks suddenly and stopped. Also, when I step on the accelerator when engine hesitates, it doesn't respond correctly, no matter how much I press (it slowly accelerates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I enter a highway when the problem occurred, I can't feel any difference when I drive at higher speeds. Hesitation only occurs when driving in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, even in short trips, car sometimes idles very roughly (sudden heavy vibrations). But it doesn't hesitate or stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in my morning drive to office (short trip), car idles smoothly. But in evening drive to home, idle is much rougher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned throttle body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced ignition coils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me what is wrong with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T16:58:48.003" Title="Engine hesitates and stalls when warm" Tags="|toyota|rough-idle|hesitation|vitz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T01:29:20.403" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my car, coolant dries up fast and after i drive around 400 kms, again I have to feel up at least less than a half litre. Why it is? No leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15743" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T01:56:56.260" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T00:43:38.670" Title="my cars coolant dries up atleast less than a half litre after i drive around 400 km. why?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27262" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:26:55.513" Score="3" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently the fuel injectors of my Mazda 3 SP5 2006 2.3L stop working, they still works, but my mechanic said that are in bad conditions. Anyway, when I search the fuel injectors for my car, I found two of them ( L3G5-13-250 and LF62-13-250). The first is for the federal emission standard and the other for the California emission standard.  I think that my car have the federal emission standard. Can I buy the one with the California emission standard? This one (California) is $66 and the other (federal) in $136.  Is a big difference in the price. &#xA;I read that the California emission standard is more strict than the federal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will either injector work for my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15744" LastEditorUserId="15744" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T01:20:50.553" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T01:20:50.553" Title="What fuel injectors I have to install?" Tags="|emissions|mazda-3|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-17T00:22:22.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27225" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:38:47.353" Score="9" ViewCount="2900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to skip gears when downshifting manually, e.g. from 4th directly down to 2nd etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T13:49:43.077" LastActivityDate="2023-02-22T20:55:49.547" Title="Skipping gears when downshifting" Tags="|transmission|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27223" CreationDate="2016-03-16T03:16:40.757" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car is slowing down, and you are at a &quot;safe&quot; speed for 2nd gear, then its perfectly normal to skip gears.  If you're going the wrong speed and the engine RPMs aren't even close to what they need to be, the syncros might have a hard time lining everything up and you could hear a little grinding, and cause a little wear, but it still shouldn't cause any major damage if you only do it accidentally a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most noticeable in many cars when trying to shift into 1st while the car is still moving because it's expected that you won't need 1st unless you come to a stop. This matches up with what I mentioned about matching speed/RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/21784/12030&quot;&gt;Gearbox impact of skipping gears driving downwards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/974/12030&quot;&gt;Is it OK to skip gears on a motorcycle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T03:16:40.757" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T08:27:05.850" Score="4" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to change the manual locking system into central locking system for all three doors for this model of 1999?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can the manual window  opening closing system be changed into an electric system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done by a handy man or is a garage needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15709" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T19:13:45.040" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T19:13:45.040" Title="Add central locking and electric windows to Land Rover Defender (1999)?" Tags="|electrical|aftermarket-upgrade|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T08:45:16.213" Score="5" ViewCount="20750" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to cover your bike as soon as you shut the enigne after a 20 mile ride?&#xA;I cover 40 miles daily to and fro for work. I reach home around 11 pm and barely have the patience to climb down from my apartment after sometime to cover the bike so as to ensure the engine has cooled down. Can I cover it within a few minutes of my reaching home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13549" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T01:07:47.507" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T11:07:36.813" Title="Putting a cover on the bike while engine is hot" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27252" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:00:06.387" Score="7" ViewCount="4207" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main question is already in the title, but just to make sure it's clear, what I'm asking is, is there any harm done to the bike if you stop it by lowering the side stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if anyone can provide a more elaborate answer, is there any difference between stopping the engine by turning the key, lowering the side stand, or using the kill switch? Or, even better, explain how all three of these actions work technically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case there are differences based on the bike, I'm asking for a Triumph Tiger 800 from 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T16:20:34.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T20:03:20.687" Title="Should you stop a motorcycle's engine with the side stand?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:15:00.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be diesel or coolant if it's not just too much oil in there from the beginning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the other answers about foaming and coolant in the oil, you should also be aware of runaway, which is when a diesel starts running of its crankcase contents or exterior gases instead of diesel from the injectors. This can happen if crankcase oil is pulled into the engine through the crankcase ventilation or a bad turbo. This is more likely to happen if there is a lot of diesel in the oil and if the level is too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the key won't help if this is the case, so I would drain the excess oil ASAP and see if the level continues to rise. That would suggest that further investigation is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty nice summary of the effect: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoevolution.com/news/heres-how-you-quickly-stop-a-runaway-diesel-video-87344.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autoevolution.com/news/heres-how-you-quickly-stop-a-runaway-diesel-video-87344.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:15:00.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28139" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:44:12.723" Score="3" ViewCount="1861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find the typical* cold cranking amps required to start a Jaguar S-type 3 litre v6 petrol engine (UK) so that I can be more informed when I research batteries, boosters, chargers etc. I've tried searching for the answer to this question online to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* I know it might vary, so I am looking to get an approximation, an idea.  Not an exact figure. Some further info to narrow it down...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weather:  Cold but not freezing (let's say 10 °C).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time since last start - typcially 1 week (but sometimes won't start after a short journey has taken place and the car has been parked, then left for half an hour, this after about a week of no driving) - The car gets used on weekends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of charge in battery - Not dead, but not enough to start by itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastEditorUserId="5036" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T10:35:15.743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T13:35:34.227" Title="What are the cold cranking amps required to start Jaguar S type 3l petrol engine" Tags="|battery|cold-start|jaguar|s-type|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27181" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:45:38.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a battery booster pack will work and just about any of them will work to an extent (more expensive, higher CCA will work better/longer), there is a much better solution to your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to purchase a battery tender to attach to your vehicle. This will ensure two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal battery life without sulfation. Over time as a battery is discharged down to nothing, sulfate crystals form on the battery plates. This degrades the reserve capacity of the battery. When the battery is discharged down like that many, many times, you can expected your battery to last a much shorter period. You can expect the battery to have a lifespan of 1/2 to 1/3 of what it should have been.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bigger reason to get the tender is so your car is ready at a moments notice. All you have to do is unplug it and away you go. Motorcycle owners use these all the time to keep the battery in good shape over the winter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different brands available. Look for the type which will float charge and maintain the battery, not just keep it charged. Here in the States you can get them for $20-30, which by all approximation is far cheaper than a new battery or even a jumper box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T10:45:38.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27113" CreationDate="2016-03-16T12:32:47.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you have an automatic transmission.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold idle in park should be about 2K-2.5K, cold idle in drive should be about 1K-1.2K, warm idle in park should be about 900-1.1k, warm idle in drive should be about 600-750.  Your symptoms sound to be either a dirty throttle body, or a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IACV).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clean the throttle body by removing the air cleaner hose so you can see the butterfly valve.  Spray the edge of the valve with carburetor cleaner.  Open the valve by hand, and clean the buildup that has formed around the edge of the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the idle speed is not higher when the engine is cold, then the IACV is likely the cause.  This valve is located on the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hacks/work arounds.  You can 'two foot it' by having one foot on the brake and another on the gas to keep the RPM up.  Your throttle body MIGHT have an minimum idle screw that you can turn to raise the minimum idle RPM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T12:32:47.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2016-03-16T12:49:18.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing something about this for the ECU code for the ~83-95 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler 2.2L/2.5L FWD cars.  The ECUs were engine specific, not vehicle(body) specific.  I believe at 35mph it introduced 'delayed cooling'  where it would not engage the fans until a later temperature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T12:49:18.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27164" CreationDate="2016-03-16T13:12:25.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban.  I've replace just about every piece of hydraulic equipment on the vehicle aside from the hoses on the rear axle and the ABS pump.  Since replacing a broken line 2 years ago, the pedal hasn't been the same.  I probably put about a gallon of brake fluid through the braking system trying to bleed it correctly.  I finally was able to get it bleed completely and I can now lock the wheels on dry pavement.  Here is what finally worked for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the bleeders off, clean them, install Teflon tape so they make a good seal.  Bleed the vehicle with the normal 2 person method, vacuum bleeding, or pressure bleeding.  &lt;strong&gt;If doing the 2 person method, close the bleeders before releasing the pedal&lt;/strong&gt;.  This will get out any bubbles near the calipers/wheel cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a catch, any bubbles near the master cylinder or ABS will want to go up, and there is a good 1 foot drop to the bleeders.  I did a reverse bleed.  This pushes fluid from the bleeders to the master cylinder.  &lt;strong&gt;You want to make sure you have a good bleed on the system first, so you are not pushing dirty fluid back through the system&lt;/strong&gt;.  After doing a reverse bleed, do a normal bleed again to ensure there are not bubbles trapped around the caliper/wheel cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a company that makes a reverse bleeder.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brakebleeder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brakebleeder.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to build my own with a glass jar, some clear hose, and a connection to the air compressor with a regulator.  I took an extra set of bleeders and cut the tip off, so I could screw it in all the way to avoid leaking around the threads.  It seemed to work well, but I got brake fluid everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T13:12:25.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27218" CreationDate="2016-03-16T13:29:34.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue on one of my cars.  The impeller on the water pump was plastic and had cracked.  The timing belt was spinning the pulley, but the impeller was not necessarily spinning.  The new one I put in was metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T13:29:34.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:54:37.587" Score="3" ViewCount="6778" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is something that occurs on every vehicle I've driven in the last 15 years, so it's obviously not a malfunction but a design choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn the selector to blow either on the floor or the defroster there is always some air blowing from the dashboard vents. If you don't want it to blow there you have to close the vents (which in some vehicles you can't really do or it whistles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it annoying to have the heater blowing in my face in the winter. It's my feet that need the heat (I drive 300+ miles a day so it's kind of frustrating). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do the car makers do this? There must be some reason for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13068" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T06:13:54.357" Title="Why does air always blow out of the dash vents?" Tags="|heater|heater-blower|heater-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27222" CreationDate="2016-03-16T15:30:24.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car is either a California car or it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can call the dealer and give them your VIN number and in order to have your vehicle identified.  Once you know what your car is then you can purchase the proper fuel injector that is required for your vehicle rather than hoping that the cheap injector will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T15:30:24.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27245" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:14:13.667" Score="11" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new car and I have heard three things about tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They need to be aligned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They need to be balanced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They need to be rotated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what I do not know is how often each needs to be done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any of these two(or may be all three) be done together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my car not driving properly, how do I know if it is lack of balance, alignment or rotation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9620" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T08:22:39.273" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T08:22:39.273" Title="Tire Maintenance" Tags="|tires|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27216" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:45:46.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;The coolant recovery tank serves two purposes&lt;/code&gt; There is another function on newer cars. They maintain pressure in the system. Back in the day there was a spring-loaded radiator cap and the tank was not under pressure. On newer cars the overflow tank has a pressure cap on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system has to be pressurized because pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. Without the pressure there can be boiling in the system. Although the whole system may not boil over there can be localized boiling in the engine (usually near fast moving parts like the water pump vanes). These tiny steam bubbles cause two problems. First, steam has way less thermal conductance than liquid water so the parts where the bubbles are forming don't get cooled properly. Second, the steam bubbles form then collapse. They collapse with extreme speed and force, This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cavitation&lt;/a&gt; and it causes rapid wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of cavitation on a marine propeller.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzW4q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cavitation damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the kind of damage it causes on moving parts.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsT3v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cavitation damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images from Wikimedia commons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13068" LastEditorUserId="44272" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T03:12:21.660" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T03:12:21.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27243" CreationDate="2016-03-16T17:49:03.183" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They need to be aligned&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, technically the &lt;em&gt;wheels&lt;/em&gt; need to be aligned.  This doesn't have much to do with fitting tires and is more of a mechanical maintenance item on the car.  It's a good idea to have an alignment done when you buy new tires because poor alignment will make your tires wear out very fast.  Since its a new car, if you drive on good roads and don't hit any huge bumps or potholes, you can probably skip getting an alignment on your first tire change.  Most people won't get an alignment unless the tires show obvious tell-tale wear patterns, so this is up to you.  If your car wants to drift to one side of the road, or you notice that you have to hold the steering wheel off center to drive straight, you probably need an alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They need to be balanced&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally tires only need to be balanced when they are installed.  A properly balanced tire will wear evenly and should remain balanced over its lifetime.  The balancing weights can come off, and it is possible for the tire to become unbalanced for other reasons, so its possible to need a re-balance, but this is only done if you feel an obvious vibration.  Some tire shops might sell you a &quot;lifetime balance&quot; and they will check them when you come in for a rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They need to be rotated&lt;/strong&gt;  (assuming this was the third point)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This definitely needs to be done at regular intervals.  Each tire manufacturer will have a recommended interval to do this, and its important to follow their guidelines if you want your &quot;mileage warranty&quot; to mean anything, and to get the most life out of all four tires.  Typical intervals are 4000-6000 miles.  Most tire shops will do this for free if you bought the tires there, but you can also do it yourself with the right tools (Jacks, jack stands, torque wrench).  There's no way to tell if you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to rotate the tires - you just have to do it on a schedule.  If there is an obvious difference between the wear on the front and back tires, you've waited too long to rotate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T17:54:56.977" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T17:54:56.977" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27247" CreationDate="2016-03-16T18:23:28.193" Score="9" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is a simple way of firing a coil on plug outside of the car. The coil in question is just a two wire coil on plug and I don't know if its possible to just hook up a 12V voltage source to it to see if it will fire. Any ideas on how to do this would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14415" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T18:39:16.993" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:32:33.927" Title="Firing a Coil on Plug" Tags="|sparkplugs|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27246" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:27:48.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would follow these simple steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove plug from engine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place plug into coil wire&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure threads of the sparkplug are grounded to a metal surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Validate metal surface goes to ground by using a multimeter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some multimeter basics for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25816/multimeter-basic-functionality-and-howto/25884#25884&quot;&gt;Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the sparkplug is grounded to the chassis of the car you can turn it over and look at the sparkplug to see if you have spark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:27:48.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27246" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:32:33.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a coil that connects directly to a spark plug, then I believe that they need a higher voltage than 12v pulsed into them.  They are not the same as the old fashioned large coils that were found on engines with points, where a large current at 12v was used to fire them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:32:33.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27229" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:56:45.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used bike covers for years.  Both in a garage and outside of a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lived near the ocean with high humidity and in the desert of the US southwest with very low humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not noticed any ill effects to my motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am certainly not saying that you won't have ill effects.  I can see how warm trapped air in a motorcycle cover could possibly lead to condensation.  That being said perhaps an experiment over the weekend is in order where you could get the bike good and hot and put the cover on and periodically check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion, after seeing dew on my bike frequently when I lived by the ocean, dew shouldn't hurt the vehicle.  I'm a bit of a vehicle abuser and have driven dirt bikes into lakes, just cuz, in the past.  Mind you, I'm not proud of that, but so long as I flipped it over and got the water out of the intake they always started up and were able to beaten up further afterward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is very subjective and not founded in facts.  I don't even have citations.  So let the downvoting begin!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, I hope this helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:56:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27230" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:03:20.687" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not for any &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; reason.  It won't hurt your bike, I will say that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My unreal reason revolves around habit and possibly, future risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know riders who did that in the past.  Then, later, as the comfort level increased, they would coast up to a stop in gear, clutch pulled in and drop their kickstand thus killing the ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to turn a bit while coasting up to the parking space and dip in enough to hit that kickstand on ground, it's quite a wakeup call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the kickstand kill switch was implemented on modern bikes I have taken off with the kickstand down.  Several times.  It picked up the back of my bike and destroyed a few kickstands.  One time I was going about 45mph when I leaned into a left hander and it high-sided me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, technically, your good.  You can do that.  It won't hurt your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF, you get comfortable coasting and doing it, then you might have an incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not intended to sound paternal even though it does sound paternal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, be safe fellow two wheeled pilot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T20:03:20.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:11:35.073" Score="9" ViewCount="38808" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds ridiculous but I have to wait until tomorrow for the tool, but I'm sure there is a way to do it?  I haven't even attempted it yet on fear that I mess something up big time.  My 95 Camry needs the puller with the 3 arms on it where you put in two bolts and turn it... Any feedback would be helpful and appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T20:26:02.927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:53:03.400" Title="removing crankshaft pulley without the puller tool?" Tags="|toyota|camry|pulley|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27253" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:24:06.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a way to do it. You put a wrench on the pulley bolt and block the other end against the floor or the frame. Then you use the starter motor to turn the engine (DO NOT START IT, JUST TURN IT) for at most one or two revolutions of the crank. Just enough to break the bolt loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to watch out for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure the wrench is setup properly to remove the bolt, otherwise turning the engine will tighten it, and that could lead to snapping it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT drain the oil before attempting this. The oil must be at normal levels when you do this or you could cause a lot of internal damage as parts will rub together that were never intended to do that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are trying to replace the timing belt, there are many videos on YouTube on how to do this. Just be sure you pick one by someone competent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure to remove the spark plug wires from the plugs, and remove the plugs so the engine won't start, and you don't make the starter motor fight engine compression.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a step by step with pictures, but he does reccomend using the harmonic balancer puller in his tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/149232-my-timing-belt-change-very-detailed-pics-gen-4-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/149232-my-timing-belt-change-very-detailed-pics-gen-4-a.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T18:53:03.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:53:03.400" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27208" CreationDate="2016-03-16T20:35:51.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several components that will get worn and eventually need replacement no matter what kind of oil change regiment or maintenance you perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a short list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rings&lt;/strong&gt; - Your rings are moving up down with the piston as the engine runs.  This will wear them regardless of the lubrication.  You can extend their life by not revving the engine to higher RPM's and mitigate wear with frequent oil changes but at the end of the day it's metal on metal contact therefore they will wear down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder Bore&lt;/strong&gt; - The rings moving in the cylinder bore will wear down the cylinder bore over time.  Exhaust gasses will begin to slip by the rings reducing your power and fouling up your oil quicker over time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission&lt;/strong&gt; - From shifting, your dogs and slots will wear down and become rounded.  This could take decades or months depending on if you are shifting properly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valves and Valve Seats&lt;/strong&gt; - Poppet valves are banging on valve faces on the head at half the rate of RPM's.  That's a lot of banging.  At some point in the engines timeline valves will need replacement and the valve seats will require recutting to mate properly to the new valves.  As well, valve guide seals are rubber and will become hard over time with the many heat cycles an engine will go through over it's lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain&lt;/strong&gt; - Your chain will wear.  It's exposed to the elements.  It transfers all the power to the rear wheel.  It's a consumable and viewed as a component that will require several replacements over the life of the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sprockets&lt;/strong&gt; -  Sprockets get changed and wear with the change.  They are consumable as well.  Like brake pads, they wear out and become 'mated' to the chain.  Always replace chain and both sprockets at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forks and Shocks&lt;/strong&gt; - No matter how nice you are to the bike eventually shock and fork seals will fail.  I've had some last 15 years and other last 6 months.  As well, fork oil requires change and it's recommended to do the fork seals at the same time.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All vehicles experience wear no matter how well you take care of them.  Eventually, given enough time, components will fail.  Coils will wear out and degrade.  Fork tubes will wear down over time.  Brake pads and clutches will be consumed and replaced.  It's an unfortunate reality we must all endure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are experiencing a degradation performance there are few things you can check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Filter&lt;/strong&gt; - Ensure your fuel filter is flowing properly.  If you have good power off idle and then it degrades shortly (within 15 to 30 seconds) it could be your fuel filter is clogged and not feeding the fuel system properly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Filter&lt;/strong&gt; If you air filter is obstructed due to use you can have significant performance issues along the entire RPM range.  Ensure the air filter is changed on a regular basis to prevent debris from inhibiting air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;  On shim and bucket top ends the valves slowly begin to take up clearance between the bucket head and the cam lobe.  I have had motorcycles that are at zero clearance and once you get them hot, they won't run because there is a valve hanging open.  Once the bike cools, then it starts.  Before the issue get's that severe the bike will lose overall power and appear sluggish.  It's a regular maintenance item that should occur according the manufacturer recommendations.  I adjust the valves on all my bikes, once every six months just because I don't mind doing it and I'm usually teaching someone as well.  You don't need that kind of fervent frequency but it is recommended to have this performed as a regular maintenance item.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T22:43:19.543" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T22:43:19.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:01:25.847" Score="4" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Started my FZR600 this morning for work. Normal crank. As I lowered the choke it started to die out so I tried to give it some throttle but it didn't help. The bike cut off completely. Checked all the fuses and they are fine, but NOTHING turns on when I turn the key to on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No gauges, lights, nothing. causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15760" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T19:59:30.340" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T19:59:30.340" Title="My Yamaha cut off while idling and now there is no power" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|ignition|yamaha|fzr600|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27240" CreationDate="2016-03-16T21:25:39.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This hasn't happened with any of the cars I have owned over the last 22 years - which is a pity, because one of the things I would have liked is designed functionality to do what Erik vanDoren mentions - setting the selector between positions to try and get this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my more recent cars (last 10 years or so) it is impossible to get this to happen as the vents/baffles are motor controlled so when I select one all the others close fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm guessing the ones you have had are designed to allow it to happen, because a number of the customer base will be like me and want it to happen. And it's easier (probably) to allow it than prevent it unless you use fully closing vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T21:25:39.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27329" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:30:54.437" Score="7" ViewCount="42819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just broke two 3/8 in. extensions trying to crack an underdrive pulley loose (specs say the pulley is at 130 ft-lbs, but it feels much higher than that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This begs the question: are there standard tolerances for tools of a given thickness (a maximum amount of torque for 1/2 in and 3/8 in tools)? If so, what are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-02-23T04:21:28.593" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T17:22:18.553" Title="What is the maximum torque a 1/2 drive can withstand?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9060" CreationDate="2016-03-16T22:38:11.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That only works if you have a master key,if you dont have a master key you need to flash the computer to register new keys.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15762" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T22:55:56.327" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T22:55:56.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:16:20.867" Score="6" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Help me find out why my wheel on my 2003 Ford Expedition will not turn after I have changed the brake caliper on the front driver side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15763" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T08:41:00.157" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T08:41:00.157" Title="Changed the brake caliper on the driver front side of my 2003 Ford Expedition and the wheel wont turn. What's wrong?" Tags="|ford|brakes|expidition|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-11T08:20:46.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27191" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:25:47.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So first off you need to verify fuel pressure like paulster2 said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have fuel pressure it's time to check the relay wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key On Engine Off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the relay there should be battery voltage (12+V) on pin 5 (orange) If you don't have battery voltage on this wire check the fuses and check the connection to the battery positive terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On pin 3 (dark green/white) there will be 12 volts coming from the PCM to power the relay coil. And pin 2 (black/white) will be the relay coil ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 1 (tan/white) is the wire that sends battery voltage to the fuel pump, MAF relay etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your Camaro if for some reason the fuel pump relay fails oil pressure from cranking closes the oil pressure switch and provides power to the fuel pump circuit as a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the case of no fuel pressure. Either the fuel pump is bad/on it's way out, the wiring to the pump doesn't have continuity, or the wiring to the battery doesn't have continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:25:47.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27222" CreationDate="2016-03-16T23:55:08.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the California emissions injectors flow more fuel and have a higher resistance. The design also looks different this could lead to fuel leaks. If you had a Federal emissions car it could also throw off the engine computer either resulting in running too rich or the car setting a circuit code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T23:55:08.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T00:51:35.197" Score="1" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car recently would heat up extremely quickly and begin smoking, the reservoir for coolant was low so I refilled(was accidentally overfilled). That did not help so I refilled the radiator itself with coolant. That also had no observable effect. I noticed while refilling that it would leak from under the car the color of the coolant. I let it sit for a day to see if it was a continuous leak and if it would be empty the next day. The next day I didn't notice any indication it had leaked (possible since it's been raining)  beneath the car and saw no active leaking. Reservoir was still filled (overfilled). I added some water to the radiator to see what would happen, and it again began leaking coolant (not water) from the bottom of the car again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if the solution requires purchasing something is it safe to use to drive to the store (3 or 4 miles) to get the supplies and just keep dumping water on the engine to make sure it doesn't warm up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15765" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T01:08:34.447" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T13:11:32.617" Title="Hood smoking, coolant leaking. 92 Subaru legacy" Tags="|coolant|subaru|leak|legacy|smoke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27263" CreationDate="2016-03-17T02:07:02.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my 2005 Chevrolet Celta a couple years ago and it was caused by a blown water pump. The car turned off suddenly right as I was pulling into a gas station. The car stated again to drive the next 50 meters to park properly but the coolant warning light turned on. In the occasion the mechanic also changed the thermostat since it could be the culprit (and it was not that expensive anyway). I would not advise to drive the car like that since this is equivalent to drive without coolant. Since the store is 3 or 4 miles away, just take a walk or a cab ride, both will be way cheaper than driving the car like that. While on your case it could be a broken water pump, check what is leaking coolant, it could be just a hose or a clip and this is much easier to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T02:07:02.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T08:39:26.010" Score="5" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my bike (KTM Duke 200) is suffocating to deliver enough power between 2000-3000 RPM. I took the bike to a service station and they told me that its an engine problem, low compression and needs immediate repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the real issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will be just a fuel filter problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why it always happen at 2000-3000 RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After half an hour from engine start or running 6 KM, this issue gets reduced considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPM's hang at higher then idle then fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airbox is broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15345" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T21:38:26.173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:38:26.173" Title="2012 KTM Duke 200 - Low acceleration in low rpm" Tags="|motorcycle|rpm|performance|ktm|duke|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-06-24T10:11:19.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27270" CreationDate="2016-03-17T08:39:51.563" Score="12" ViewCount="36665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a bottle of Castrol Edge oil for topping up. The oil is advertised as being 'Fully synthetic', I don't really know what that means but it was produced sometime in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a while ago, does the oil expire? I am asking because my car is burning it right now and might be that expired oil is the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15614" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T15:12:22.937" Title="Does synthetic oil expire?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T08:55:30.537" Score="3" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Golf 1.9 TDI pd 100 with 120,000 on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have the engine running at idle , after a about 30sec to a minute, it starts to shake a little, like as if an injector is not getting enough fuel. It like runs smooth then after each 30 seconds or so it starts doing it again. If I increase the revs slightly it's ok and the car runs ok. Anyone know what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15772" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T10:36:53.230" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T10:36:53.230" Title="Light shudder on idle speed" Tags="|vw|rough-idle|golf|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28849" CreationDate="2016-03-17T09:11:06.687" Score="5" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on buying a 1989 VW Jetta A2 with a 1.6 carb engine and automatic transmission. The particular car I'm interested in is generally in very good condition, except for being low on power and stuttering while accelerating. The owner says that the carb simply needs adjustment, which would be fine as I have some experience with Pierburg 2E carbs. However what seems a bit strange for me is that the symptoms are identical when running on petrol and LPG (as the car has LPG). Based on my previous experiences with such engines I would assume carb tuning shouldn't affect running on LPG, as the only element used when running on LPG is the throttle valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle is quite smooth, so it appears to run on all cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could of course be a matter of a vaccum leak between the carb and intake manifold, ignition problem or some other minor issue which wouldn't prevent me from buying the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my question is whether it could potentially indicate some major issue with the engine itself or the automatic transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:34:11.280" Title="Jetta mk2 petrol, reasons for loss of power other than fueling &amp; ignition" Tags="|vw|carburetor|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27267" CreationDate="2016-03-17T09:57:17.763" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elf.com/en/advice-corner/engine-oil-faq/does-motor-oil-expire.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elf&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.valvoline.com/auto-resources/motor-oil-faq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valvoline state&lt;/a&gt; that as long as their oil was stored under optimal conditions, unopened containers should be good for a practically unlimited time. However &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our-auto-experts/questions-for-auto-experts/shelf-life-of-unopened-mobil-1-quarts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mobil1 says&lt;/a&gt; that their oil has a shelf life of five years. Many people will tell you that unopened motor oil shouldn't be used after 3-5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I'd say your oil should be fine. You could inspect it for obvious defects to be sure, if it appears to be layered, hazy, oddly coloured or has floating stuff in it - get rid of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car suddenly started burning oil after a change I would check if the oil is the right viscosity and complies to the standards required for your model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T10:02:18.537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T10:02:18.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T12:35:11.797" Score="3" ViewCount="7761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a German ford focus MK3 titanium with key free entry. But I read a article about a security issue with this function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain me how to disable it without losing Keyfree start function? It's not shown in the manual for this vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15777" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T06:56:56.987" Title="Ford Focus MK3 disable key free entry" Tags="|ford|security|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:42:26.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having much experience with this engine, I'd say that the likely cause of the problem is the rubber foot / gasket upon which the carburetor is sitting.  These split and begin to pull in air which can cause lean running.  This would be the very first thing I would check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T13:42:26.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27220" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:49:15.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stalling issues point toward problems with an engine control system (air, fuel, or spark), but again short of replacing the fuel pump, you have already replaced the parts most likely to cause those issues. The idea that the car will act normally on short trips is also strange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that stands out to me is that the car has trouble accelerating, but accelerates normally at highway speeds. This could indicate that there is something wrong one of the solenoids involved in shifting the transmission, or with the torque converter. If the torque converter is not disengaging properly, or the transmission is not properly lubricated, this could also cause your intermittent stall issues. You might not experience the problems on short trips because you never reach high enough speeds for the obstructed solenoid to be activated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first make sure the transmission fluid is at the correct level, and regardless, if the fluid has not been replaced I would do so. Assuming the OBD-II system is not throwing any codes (indicated by the Check Engine Light), the solenoids are probably functioning properly, but the dirty transmission fluid could be limiting their function. If changing the transmission fluid does not solve the problem please add that to your question and see if you get another answer, but you may have to look into replacing the torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T13:49:15.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27281" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:49:16.260" Score="7" ViewCount="10724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a crack in the strut mount rubber of my 1999 Volvo v40. The suspension often creaks when going over speed bumps (and sometimes it doesn't)  though I'm not sure it's the fault of this mount. Everything else looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that a completely broken mount could cause the strut to come out of it's place and cause bigger issues, though how much of a problem is this on a scale of &lt;em&gt;&quot;fix it ASAP and don't drive until you do or you'll die tomorrow&quot;&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;&quot;you're good for another year, keep driving and occasionally take a look if it's getting any worse when you're super bored&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. As I understand this is going to be a tiresome job, so I would prefer to avoid it for as long as I can, there are other problems to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how my mount looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PozKL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PozKL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not cool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how a new mount looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ypqgs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ypqgs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wish it was looking like this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:38:14.787" Title="How bad is this strut mount damage?" Tags="|suspension|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T14:18:29.007" Score="7" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;What causes a grinding or scratching noise when shifting from 2nd to 3rd&#xA;Gear on a 2000 Celica GT? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have my mechanic add some gear oil but was thinking maybe I should have him drain out old fluid and put in new gear oil all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15753" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T16:51:57.773" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T13:51:01.817" Title="Manual transmission noise" Tags="|toyota|transmission|shifting|gears|celica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27280" CreationDate="2016-03-17T15:19:42.460" Score="6" ViewCount="6868" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need advice.  I am replacing brake rotors and pads for all four wheels.  My home 2-car garage only gives me enough room to work on the side facing the other car, the middle of the garage. Is it safe to install the rotors and pads on both the front and rear passenger wheels first - then back the car out of the garage and pull it back in on the other side so that the driver side gets the room to work?  Any problem doing one side and then the other instead of both front and then both rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15780" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T18:01:00.257" Title="Replace driver side first, then passenger side brakes?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27278" CreationDate="2016-03-17T15:46:54.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found two videos that may help to move the car into a better position to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should help with your workspace problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One video uses Gojaks and the other system uses something similar to furniture coasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gojaks are useful for moving cars in and out tight spaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park and Slide (Car coasters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj7TYSBAGpU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj7TYSBAGpU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gojaks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKg6fMIIoX0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKg6fMIIoX0&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your garage is large enough perhaps in the future you can use a system like the one in this video below. It's a car lift that places cars up towards a ceiling. Some are single lifts I think this one has two separate lifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car storage lift&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vHdGshWSE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vHdGshWSE0&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastEditorUserId="15391" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T16:30:16.037" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:30:16.037" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27278" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:09:24.930" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume you have a very good reason for not taking the other car out of the garage to give yourself more room...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People replace either the front or rear brakes together because they are &quot;on the same axle&quot; and replacing one side doesn't make sense because both sides should wear at the same rate.  Replacing one side could make the car pull to one side or other strange behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't see any reason you can't change one side immediately before changing the other side.  I wouldn't drive very much like that because how the brakes might react is hard to predict, but if you're literally just backing out and then back in - go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before backing up, make sure that the brakes have pressure. I'd hate for you to introduce air into the lines then try to back up and keep going because the brakes don't work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:09:24.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27276" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:26:08.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strut mounts that tear a little are safe to drive with. The mounts themselves have metal inside them and are conically shaped at the top so they really won't fail unless you take the vehicle airborne and the mount rips. You should replace it though. That's a pretty good tear, and who knows how soon it could completely rip out. If you put it up on a lift or jackstands, there is a good chance it will break or fall out if you're doing suspension work. I can't count how many times I've done this while removing spindles and well hub assemblies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as it being &quot;Tiresome&quot;. That's dependent on the vehicle and your skill level. Most times, strut removal is a fairly easy thing. You remove the strut from the spindle and or wishbones if you have them, you then remove the top 2 or 3 mounting nuts and it's that simple.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video below shows a &quot;General&quot; method of operation for removing struts. I know in the video he emphasizes how dangerous this is. If you're careful about it, you should be okay. It's the same idea of &quot;Don't stare into the barrel of a gun&quot;. Common sense. Parts stores also rent tools out to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T16:38:14.787" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T16:38:14.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:27:41.453" Score="21" ViewCount="18627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2007 model FIAT Albea 1.3 liter 4-door saloon. I think it might be the &quot;fire&quot; version. Made (assembled) in Turkey. I use it 6 months a year but 4-5 weeks at a time. When it's stored/parked at my friend's place he keeps the engine running but does not drive the car. Invariably he has to replace a wheel, put on spare, take the flat tyre to a repair shop only to be told that there's no puncture! The tire goes flat &quot;for no reason&quot; but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15639" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T18:17:16.777" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T06:18:36.390" Title="Why do tyres go flat after a few weeks of non-usage?" Tags="|tires|fiat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27282" CreationDate="2016-03-17T16:50:53.960" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wheel is obviously leaking somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few places that you can have a leak related to the wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Schrader Valve - The schrader valve within the valve stem where you refill the air can be bad and require replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The valve stem - The valve stem where the schrader valve is in can have a bad a seal on the rim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Pressure Sensor - I didn't look up if you have one but many cars do have a tire pressure sensor.  You can have a bad seal on your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Bead - All around your tire where the inside diameter of it meets your wheel requires a nice smooth surface.  You can have leaks here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any damage to the surface of any of the above points can cause a leak.  It could have been a tire change from a careless tire worker.  A good scratch along the bead, a pair of pliers replacing the valve stem and a nick in the valve stem hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need a new rim but you would have to pull the wheel and remove the tire, valve stem and pressure sensor to give it a good inspection to determine where the leak is and see if you can fix it with some sandpaper if it's a bur on a sealing surface of your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T06:18:36.390" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T06:18:36.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27282" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:33:22.930" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to determine where the tire / wheel is leaking, is to make a solution of soapy water and put it in a spray bottle. Take the wheel off the car, and coat the tire and wheel on every surface with the soapy water. The place where the bubbles are active is your leak. I have no doubt that one of the places @DucatiKiller mentioned will be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:33:22.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27282" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:33:48.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to find a slow leak is to put the tire under water and look for bubbles.  Try to find a tub big enough to cover the sidewall with the tire standing up.  Pump the tire up to about 35 PSI, and put the tire in the water.  rotate it slowly and watch for bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:33:48.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27273" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:40:10.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the key-less entry system operates via wireless signals without physical contact to the ignition system.... You may be able to use tinfoil to cover the key so that the signal that the key puts out may not be boosted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key-less systems seem very similar to RFID cards if not the same. I think that they have RFID technology in Europe for awhile now. They make wallets that have a tinfoil lining that block RFID signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon has Key-fob protectors and this website sells them as well. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fobguard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fobguard.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make your own key-fob signal protector. This article below is more suitable for storage in a house or apartment setting or something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fob-guards are more mobile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://makezine.com/2015/08/14/block-car-door-relay-hack-faraday-cage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://makezine.com/2015/08/14/block-car-door-relay-hack-faraday-cage/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this setup you may not have to disable the key-less entry system. You would have to take the key out of the key-fob guard when you want to use the key-less entry feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest consulting with a Ford dealer if this setup shall work or if they have any recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is talk of a electronic chip that is in the works that will tell how far the key is really from the vehicle to counter the signal boosters. The chip would signal that the key is really this far and would not listen to the signal booster. I think the chip functions like a radar or a Lojack system to tell the distance.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:40:10.867" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27291" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:52:12.480" Score="3" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda has been overheating when it is in idle. The temp gauge will jump to max really fast. After driving it for 5-10 mins a white sweet smelling smoke will come from the coolant reservoir. I checked my coolant after driving around and it was boiling in the reservoir. I flushed my coolant and changed my temp sensor. What could be causing this overheating problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T17:57:44.637" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T18:12:24.400" Title="1999 Honda Civic xD hatch back overheating" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27310" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:56:23.830" Score="16" ViewCount="69828" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's been some security-related questions being asked here and on sister sites concerning keyless ignition automobiles and how to defend against some security risks. This brings up a related question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do cars keep running if the car can no longer detect the keyfob?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T02:11:07.110" Title="Is there a reason keyless ignition cars do not shut off when it can no longer detect the keyfob?" Tags="|key|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27287" CreationDate="2016-03-17T17:59:16.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a Popular Mechanics article that discusses the sweet smell coming from the Civic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a536/2423551/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a536/2423551/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[The sweet smell information is below.] All credit goes to Popular Mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) SMELLS LIKE:&#xA;MAPLE SYRUP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHEN: After the engine has warmed or possibly even after it's shut off for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THE CULPRIT: Coolant containing sweet-smelling (but toxic) ethylene glycol is leaking from somewhere. It could be coming from a radiator or heater hose, a failed intake manifold gasket or cylinder head. It might be coming from a leaky radiator cap or the radiator itself, especially if you smell it outside the car. A strong odor inside the passenger compartment probably means a bad heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T17:59:16.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27288" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:01:13.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be other reasons but without a doubt a big part of it is because it's impossible to predict under what conditions the car no longer detects the key. And as stated in some of the comments, that could be while driving down the highway, or on the street at just the wrong moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T18:01:13.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27287" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:12:24.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is all while you are parked and idling the car, the first place to look is the cooling fans directly behind the radiator. While moving, the motion of the car forces air through the radiator cooling the fluid flowing through it. When stopped, the ECU should be starting one (or two depending on the car) electric fan on the back of the radiator. This pulls cool air across it accomplishing enough cooling to prevent the boil-over you're seeing. If the fans are no longer working, or the sensor that turns them on is bad, then no fans, and the car boils over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check the level of the coolant when the engine is warm, but before it has boiled the coolant. The overflow tank should be marked as to the proper levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what the ratio of coolant to water is in your car right now? It should be 50/50. If there is too much water, it will boil at a lower temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to test this is to start the car, and just let it idle. If you can feel the top radiator hose getting hot, and no fan, then you have narrowed down the problem. If the fans don't come on, try looking for voltage on the connector that runs the fans. If there is a voltage present when the car is warming up, then the fan is bad. If you can feed 12V directly to the fan and they run, then the fans are fine and either the sensor, the ECU, or perhaps a wiring issue is preventing the fans from being told to come on. One additional thing to check is that the ground is good between the fan and the battery. Try checking the resistance between the negative connector on the fan and the battery negative. It should read less than 1 or 2 ohms. If it's more than that, you have a bad ground. I learn this one the hard way. Replaced a perfectly good circulator fan only to find out the new one did the same thing. The problem was a bad ground at a cold solder joint where someone had tried to splice extra length into the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T18:12:24.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27288" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:17:49.650" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that there were reports of cars rolling away due to drivers not  turning the engine off with the car still in drive or reverse.Older ignition systems like in most cars on the roads today require the car to be placed in Park before removing the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer car systems with fobs are supposed to alert when the engine is still on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15391" LastEditorUserId="15391" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T03:31:44.743" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T03:31:44.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27288" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:15:43.583" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked into this, and it turns out that almost all aspects of starting or turning off a car are governed by a federal requirements document called FMVSS 114. Things that are in there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering wheel lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That little button you have to squeeze on the gear shifter to take it out of park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't remove key unless you are in park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle can't roll when key is removed (because it's in park)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your keyless ignition car beeps the horn when you get out but the engine is still running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ETC...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the most recent version of this document, but recent keyless ignition recalls and lawsuits have focused on this document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I say the &lt;em&gt;reason&lt;/em&gt; this happens is because the government has mandated it to happen.  I wish I could provide black and white proof.  If anyone else finds a clear source post it in an answer or let me edit it into mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found what looks like an older version of a compliance &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/staticfiles/nvs/pdf/TP-114-04.pdf&quot;&gt;testing document&lt;/a&gt;, so that's something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:51:20.173" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:51:20.173" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27297" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:46:19.753" Score="6" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this 2000 Toyota Camry from some very nice folks who cannot even spell &quot;maintenance&quot;. So I need to replace the fuel filter as no one knows when it was last done. What I would love to know is how to not be sprayed with fuel when I remove the fuel line from the filter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need to pull the fuse / disconnect the battery, but that only prevents the pump from running again. The fuel line is still pressurized from the last time the pump ran. Will I damage the fuel line if I crimp it flat with a C clamp? I know I can put a bolt in it once it's free, but how do I prevent that initial spray of fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T20:30:58.990" Title="What is a safe procedure for replacing a fuel filter on a 2000 Toyota Camry?" Tags="|toyota|fuel-system|camry|fuel-line|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27295" CreationDate="2016-03-17T19:52:17.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not crimp the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you put a rag under the filter, you won't even notice the spray. While the rail may be held at a fairly high pressure, the line is small, so there isn't much fuel in there to escape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, the fuel line will depressurize into the bottom of the filter and drip down, so you won't have to worry about fuel being sprayed around the engine bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T19:52:17.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27295" CreationDate="2016-03-17T20:30:58.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this with the caveat that I haven't replaced the fuel filter on this specific vehicle before, and my advice is based on experience with other cars. I do think it's good advice regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that you should not crimp the lines, but I strongly disagree that you should just disconnect it without depressurizing the lines. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump, start the car, wait till it stalls, and try starting a few more times. Even after doing that you'll want to wrap the filter in a rag as there will still be residual pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wear eye AND ear protection. Gasoline is extremely painful if it gets in either area. If it does happen, flush with water as long as you can bear. If you get any on your skin, clean it off with soap and water at your earliest convenience. It won't cause immediate pain or discomfort but it is an irritant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12438" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T20:30:58.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:32:21.493" Score="5" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the warning chime tone of a 2007 BMW 525i be changed, or shortened somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chime of this car comes from the computer and is used for most warnings such as seatbelt, temperature, door-open, key-in-ignition, etc.  The problem is that it is very loud and obnoxiously long to the point of interfering with conversation.  Since it is used for multiple purposes it seems that I cannot enter or leave the vehicle without it going off - for a while.  And now that I have become annoyed by it - the annoyance grows each time I hear it and it is too loud to ignore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the chime is generated by the computer and its software I assume it can be changed through programming of some kind.  Is it possible to alter/adjust the warning tone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15787" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T22:08:24.300" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:20:18.003" Title="Can the warning chime tone of a 2007 BMW 525i be changed, or shortened somehow?" Tags="|bmw|computer|warning-light|program|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27277" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:37:59.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the synchromesh has worn on 3rd gear.  The synchro is a clutch that matches the speed of the gears before they mesh together.  If the synchro is worn, then the gears will not match their speed and will likely grind before meshing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T21:37:59.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27299" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:41:18.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about BMW, but this might help.  My VW Jetta had a &quot;La Cucaracha&quot; warning buzzer that was plugged into the fuse box and looked like a relay with a speaker on it.  Rather than unplugging it, I covered the speaker part with several layers of electrical tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tone could still be heard, but it was very quiet and not nearly as annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice would be to find the speaker/buzzer the sound comes from and cover it up with some insulation or tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car plays the tone from the stereo speakers this won't work at all, but maybe it will help out others trying to quiet their less advanced buzzers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T21:41:18.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27278" CreationDate="2016-03-17T21:58:06.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just going to move the car to get into a better position to work on then this is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important thing to be aware of though is that if you have done anything which might allow air into the braking system eg disconnecting pistons or any other part of the brake hydraulics then the hydraulic brakes may not work at all well until you bleed them. So take great care and don't perform any maneuvers which require sharp braking and test that the handbrake/emergency brake works well beforehand and be ready to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T23:40:53.847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T23:40:53.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27299" CreationDate="2016-03-17T22:22:50.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about BMW, but I used to develop these chimes for Ford and Fiat. They were implemented in the vehicle media system, aka radio. So, in order to change the volume or type of chime one must program a new software and download it to the media system. This is not trivial, the system supplier is the owner of these codes and they won't let you touch it unless you are BMW and pays a great deal of money to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other hipothesys is that your cluster (aka panel) produces the chime. But as far as I knew, these were low profile vehicles that need a more affordable solution. So, BMW? I don't think so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, I don't see how you could easily do it using limited tools of a common garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15789" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:22:50.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9060" CreationDate="2016-03-17T22:24:05.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the method if you don't have a scan tool. Note this is for a brand new key &amp;amp; ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Ensure SECURITY indicator light is flashing. SECURITY indicator is located on left side of instrument panel.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Insert ignition key into ignition lock cylinder. Note that SECURITY indicator light should now remain on steady.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Once ignition key registration is under way, SECURITY indicator light should turn off. After ignition key registration is complete, SECURITY indicator light should come on steady. Remove ignition key.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;If the registration was complete and system is operating normally when ignition key was removed from ignition lock cylinder, the SECURITY indicator light should flash. If ignition key registration was not completed with Engine Control Module (ECM) in automatic registration mode, a code 2-1 will be displayed by SECURITY indicator light. When inserting an already registered ignition key, a code 2-2 will be displayed by SECURITY indicator light.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;If programming additional ignition keys, repeat process starting with step 1. If additional ignition keys do not need programming, procedure is complete. SECURITY indicator light should go off once last ignition key (sub-key) is registered.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;To complete automatic registration mode, depress and release brake pedal at least 5 times within 15 seconds, or request automatic registration mode completion by using Toyota scan tool connected to Data Link Connector (DLC) No. 3.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NRO9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NRO9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when you want to add an additional master key&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Insert registered master key into ignition lock cylinder. Within 15 seconds of inserting master key into ignition lock cylinder, depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Within 20 seconds of depressing and releasing accelerator pedal, depress and release brake pedal 6 times. Remove master key from ignition lock cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Within 10 seconds of removing master key from ignition lock cylinder, insert master key to be registered in ignition lock cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Within 10 seconds of inserting master key to be registered in ignition lock cylinder, depress and release accelerator pedal one time. Ensure SECURITY indicator light flashes. SECURITY indicator is located on left side of instrument panel.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;After one minute, additional master key should be registered. SECURITY indicator light should turn off.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;If registering additional master keys, repeat process starting with step 3 within 10 seconds. The registration mode is complete after removing master key from ignition lock cylinder within 10 seconds and brake pedal is depressed or SECURITY indicator has turned off for at least 10 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:24:05.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27229" CreationDate="2016-03-17T23:29:45.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike's engine is not running than i can give you some considerations:&#xA;- For the engine, electronics, mechanical (fuel tank included) parts it's completely safe. These parts are designed to work under high temperature and these limits won't be reached just using a cover, even if the engine is hot after shutdown.&#xA;- For confort parts such as: seat and plastic details, it won't be affected at first, but you might observe a degradation over time, just like a regular vehicle left under the sun.&#xA;- For the cover itself: this is the item which concerns me more. If it's not suitable, the material can create you safety risks. Be sure to use proper cover that withstands such temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15789" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T23:29:45.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-17T23:32:11.337" Score="9" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car that is garaged and not used much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often should I take it out for a drive and for how long each time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently get it serviced every 10,000 KM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15793" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:15:57.860" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:15:57.860" Title="How often do you need to run a car?" Tags="|engine|maintenance|car|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27288" CreationDate="2016-03-18T00:21:00.043" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As JPhi1618 mentioned, this functionality centers around &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?SID=7d443eb75ceba033fed91e90f816b574&amp;amp;node=se49.6.571_1114&amp;amp;rgn=div8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CFR 571.114&lt;/a&gt;, AKA FMVSS 114. Specifically section 5.2.1 which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Except as specified in S5.2.3, the starting system required by S5.1 must prevent key removal when tested according to the procedures in S6, unless the transmission or gear selection control is locked in “park” or becomes locked in “park” as a direct result of key removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important point to understand is that car manufacturers consider the electronic code transmitted from the key-fob to the starting system the digital equivalent of a physical key, so the &quot;removal&quot; of the &quot;key&quot; occurs when the driver presses the button to shut off the car and the code is cleared from the starting system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would make it trivially easy to violate the regulation if the car cleared the start code as soon as the key fob was too far away, as it would allow a situation where the &quot;key&quot; can be &quot;removed&quot; before the car is put into park. So to skirt around that regulation, the car simply remains running so the car makers can argue that the &quot;key&quot; cannot be &quot;removed&quot; before the car is put into park. As an aside here, you could argue that it still violates the regulation, as many cars with push button start/stop will stop without the transmission being set to the &quot;park&quot; position when the start/stop button is pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the last time CFR 571.114 was updated was in 2010, and it hasn't really kept up with this technology. There's a lot of grey area, lawsuits, and it'll probably be a few years before the law and technology fully mature here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited to address @user1663987's comment:&lt;/strong&gt; If the car engine stopped when the key-fob is moved too far away, then the car mfg would have to implement a system that physically prevents the driver from removing the key-fob from the car unless the system is in park to stay in compliance with the regulation. This would pretty much defeat the &quot;key-less&quot; point, as the best way to &quot;lock&quot; the key-fob in the car while it's running would be to just have a key on it and use a traditional key-based ignition. So in a sense, this behavior is a &quot;desired&quot; interpretation of the regs because it the car mfg doesn't have to kill a desirable selling point for their vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a safety aspect that can be considered, in the event that the key-fob is unexpectedly removed from the vehicle while driving (e.g.: child tosses it out the window), however this isn't something that's currently addressed in the regulations. It's possible that auto makers have looked into this already and found that a vehicle with a key-less ignition that continues running regardless of the proximity of the key-fob is safe, though reports of people leaving their vehicles running by mistake would indicate otherwise. At this point I've wandered into the realm of speculation, so I'll stop here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15794" LastEditorUserId="15794" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T20:55:22.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T20:55:22.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27309" CreationDate="2016-03-18T00:21:56.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is quite variable - if you have a highly tuned car, it makes sense to drive it frequently to ensure oil covers all parts, as otherwise those tight tolerances add up to wear and tear, whereas a big engine that isn't tuned may cope just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example: TVR's are an amazing English sports car, but they do have a stereotype which is that they always break down. And they do if only driven occasionally during the summer when the weather is nice. As a regular commute vehicle they last for ages and perform really well. Almost all of this is down to oil remaining on all relevant surfaces, the battery remaining charged, the cat not sitting corroding away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking of the cat, when you do take it out for a drive make sure it is long enough to heat up sufficiently that no moisture can collect in the cat, as that is what causes most corrosion there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr - not knowing your car, a good default is to drive it at least once a week, and go for at least 15 minutes. More is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T00:21:56.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27146" CreationDate="2016-03-18T01:30:39.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles use the gear ratio as an indication of gearshift position. The actual calculation is accomplished by comparing crankshaft speed and vehicle's speed (informed by the ABS control unit). So, for usual purposes this is a valid method and deviations are negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15789" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T01:30:39.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T04:01:54.960" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our company has more than 40 vehicles, comprising lorries, 4-wheel drive vehicles, vans, and a sedan car. Most of those vehicles are shared and are more than 10 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of our lorries and 4-wheel drive vehicles always have high temperatures, sometimes even after an engine overhaul. The user is required to check the water and engine every day, but the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of improvement should I carry out in order to overcome this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15797" LastEditorUserId="10131" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T14:01:07.640" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:01:07.640" Title="Engines in our company's fleet frequently overheat" Tags="|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2016-03-18T04:53:48.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 86 motor in my 94 K75, they are 5hp more than later models. One thing tn that is common on K's is leaking exhaust at header pipes. The bike will backfire when you let off the throttle in gear. The copper gasket rings collapse causing cold air to suck back into exhaust. I found Honda motorcycle exhaust header gaskets exact same size but will have to look it up. They were a lot cheaper. &#xA;I have had K's suddenly backfire &amp;amp; stop when the FI module went defunct. Poor fuel mileage is a sign.  Second thing was the fuel filter hose clamp wasn't tight enough &amp;amp; hose blew off!  And in the middle of really hot desert the fuel pump floated out of the rubber holder inside the tank. By the way those rubber bushing things turn to mush over time &amp;amp; will stop up your fuel pump intake. They are cheap compared to towing your bike home!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15800" LastEditorUserId="15800" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T05:00:06.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T05:00:06.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27282" CreationDate="2016-03-18T10:06:34.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two issues here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wheel rims might be rusted or encrusted with dirt, which prevents a good seal between the wheel and the tire. In that case, the tires should be taken off and the wheel rims carefully cleaned, de-rusted and sanded smooth. The tires should then be mounted and sealed to the rim. There are various techniques for this, each with their own pros and cons. Google. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tires are filled with air under pressure. Air consists of about 78% nitrogen, 20% oxygen and a few other gasses. Oxygen molecules are small enough that they can actually pass through rubber -- slowly, but steadily. In addition, oxygen is very reactive -- it will corrode anything it can. Then there's also the moisture in air, which will hasten any corrosion process.&#xA;Airplanes and racing cars therefor have tires filled with nitrogen. You will need to find a service station that has pressurized nitrogen. The nitrogen molecule-pairs (N2) are too big to pass through the tire walls (unless the rubber is falling apart, of course) and it  does not contain moisture. In addition, pure nitrogen expands and contracts less than air does in the usual temperature ranges of most climates. &#xA;I had my tires deflated and filled with nitrogen at a service shop that does oil changes and the like. It cost only 16 euros (4 euro per tire). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15805" LastEditorUserId="11581" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T18:25:10.047" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:25:10.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27317" CreationDate="2016-03-18T10:23:32.440" Score="4" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came back from a few weeks holiday to find a rim with an old tire on it had completely deflated. The tire was needing replacement anyway so I took it to a tire shop to get a new tire put on. When he saw the tire, the fitter said &lt;em&gt;&quot;Wow. That's old.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and pointed to a code that said 05 on the sidewall. He stated that it was manufactured in 2005 and so (given that it's now 2016) was a very old tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do most/all tyre manufacturers put these dates on the sidewall? It would be very informative when doing a car (or tire) purchase to be able to determine the age of the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T10:43:59.870" Title="Do most tyres have the year of manufacture printed on them?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-18T14:32:34.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27316" CreationDate="2016-03-18T10:35:19.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do. There's a 4 digit code on the side of the tyres, the last 2 digits refer to the year. Here's a good video that explains where to find the year &amp;amp; a few other things about tyres (tyre code bit starts around 1.50): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoIFaPFMmv4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoIFaPFMmv4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastEditorUserId="15806" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T10:43:59.870" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T10:43:59.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12737" CreationDate="2016-03-18T11:30:01.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife recently had a ceaserian section and returning from the hospital was medically exempt from wearing a seat belt as the lap portion of the belt would pass directly across her scar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent the annoying buzzer from sounding we did nothing more complicated than passing the seat belt behind the seat back and plugging it into the clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T11:30:01.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27327" CreationDate="2016-03-18T11:33:05.900" Score="20" ViewCount="2358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I added crash sliders to my aging Honda CBR 600F (1998)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently whilst trying to remove the fairing for other work, I found the nut and bolt were &quot;seized&quot;. Actually, by using a spanner at either end, the nut will turn on the bolt, but it never climbs the screw thread. It's as if there is no thread for the nut to purchase on. The nut just goes around and around forever. (The crash slider on the other side of the bike came off with no problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Access is very restricted. I did manage to get my hand behind the bolt with a small block of wood, in an attempt to push back on the bolt, trying to get the nut to purchase the thread. No avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I am resigned to probably destroying the bolt in order to get the fairing off. (New bolts on order)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if I drill off the head of the bolt (accessible inside the slider) which would allow me to take the slider and fairing off, I still won't be able to slide the bolt out from the nut-end, because there isn't enough room in that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a way to get the nut off. How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4k4wI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt direction&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCmp6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From above&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wEQ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spanner access&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ph2qd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spanner access&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xt8M7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The whole setup&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQoII.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The bolt&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tGP4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spanner access&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzXfG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From underneath&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have marked as correct Nick C's suggestion to use a nut splitter.&#xA;This is an update of how it went when I tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, I got a replacement nut &amp;amp; bolt, and a nut splitter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbZe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbZe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;splitters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitting the splitter onto the nut was pretty fiddly.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uXB9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uXB9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;splitter on nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhBI5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhBI5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spanner reach&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N6SZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N6SZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used another tool through the hole of the spanner to get enough purchase to keep turning the splitter.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFVta.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFVta.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extra purchase&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nut finally off!&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfuV7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfuV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;split nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But the other half of the nut still persisted in clinging to the bolt&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycfAK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycfAK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;half nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7bRrW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7bRrW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;half nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually both halves came off. I have posted a follow-up question to ask what happened to the thread of the bolt: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27846/thread-on-bolt-what-happened&quot;&gt;Thread on bolt - what happened?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWWDs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWWDs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;nut halves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T13:48:34.627" Title="Seized nut &amp; bolt - difficult to access" Tags="|motorcycle|stuck-bolt|nut|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37886" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:12:53.650" Score="4" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen aftermarket &quot;high voltage&quot; coils that output 40kV, but what is the output voltage for the standard OEM coil pack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use a spark tester with an adjustable gap to check the strength of the spark, but I need to know the rated voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT March 19, 2016:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an insert with the spark tester which had voltages for various Ford, GM and Chrysler systems listed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two Ford systems listed were between 28-34kV. I figured since Mazda's and Fords used to use the same ignition systems a lot of the time, I'd set mine to approximately 30kV and see what happened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;At a 30kV gap, I got what looked like weak thin orange sparks.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was doing this at night in the shade of the engine hood.  Of course, I've never done this before and don't know if this is the right voltage or &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27366/what-color-should-the-spark-be-when-using-a-spark-tester&quot;&gt;what a healthy spark should look like&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T13:54:48.767" Title="What Is The Output Voltage For The Mazda 626 GF 2L 98-2002 Coil Pack?" Tags="|ignition|testing|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:25:29.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was poking through the 98 US WSM and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8zVM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8zVM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:25:29.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27313" CreationDate="2016-03-18T12:32:51.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheating is the result of a couple things - a leak, insufficient coolant flow, or insufficient air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are loosing coolant, you have a leak.  Check these areas:&#xA;Hoses&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hose connections&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Water pump (mating to block and shaft seal)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thermostat housing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radiator&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heater Core&lt;br&gt;&#xA;head gasket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;possibly intake manifold gasket depending on engine/coolant routing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tool for testing for a leak is a radiator pressure tester.  This will pressurize the system, to help you find a leak.  Clean everything down first so it will be easier to spot leaks.  Look for oil/coolant mixing, and smoke in the exhaust to indicate a blown head gasket.  Even with a small leak, the system will not be able to build pressure.  The system uses pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blockages can happen at any point in the cooling system, but are most likely in the radiator and heater core.  The best thing to do here is to flush and reverse flush the system.  It may be good to flush the radiator, heater core, and block separately.  A trick for determining if there is a block in the radiator is to feel around the radiator for cold spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad thermostat will not allow coolant through and will cause overheating.  You will see similar results with a bad water pump.  Symptoms are typically overheating with no heat and a cool radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is insufficient flow through the radiator, it will not be able to cool effectively.  At speeds under ~35mph, your cooling fan is responsible for most of the cooling.  This should kick in around 190*-210*.  Past 35 mph, the air flowing past the radiator should keep it cool.  Running the AC makes it work harder.  Make sure there is nothing in the way that could block airflow through the radiator.  Make sure any factory plastic pieces are in place as they help direct air flow.  If you have an issue with the fans, check fuses, relays, sensors, and wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tuning issues that could cause overheating.  Retarted timing and a lean air fuel mixture will cause more heat to be transferred to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be missing a few things, but this should be a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T12:32:51.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:38:50.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couldnt you drill the head off to be able to get some stuff out of the way,  cut the bolt further down, drill a center hole with a small bit and proceed drilling away the remaining stub?... You have to grab the bolt from behind so it wont keep turning but it might work. (hard to say from the pictures but I have the impression that once cut down the bolt flush to the mount you should have enough room to slide the stub off towards the nut side of it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or once most of the stuff is off you might be able to use a small cutting wheel and if not cutting away the whole thing at least be able to grind off one side of the nut, with patience. If the thread got chewed away probably is soft-ish stuff at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bolt turns you might be able to file away/cut the rest of the thread and push the nut away (tool stay put and the bolt turns against it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which tools you have available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T16:29:51.657" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:29:51.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1975" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:46:46.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;looks like they only gave you a 2 wheel alignment. Rear wasnt touched. I'd either go back or go elsewhere. There is too much variation across the rear wheels to run like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15808" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:46:46.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:58:53.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the pictures, I don't see any options besides cutting the bolt in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grinder wheel would make light work of cutting the bolt, but you may have to resort to a more primitive approach, i.e. a hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:58:53.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27288" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:07:54.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is pure and simple a safety thing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The American law given above doesn't spell it out explicitly, but that is the goal of the given regulations - prevent accidental shutoffs while the vehicle is in motion so as to avoid potentially fatal accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Germany, the law is much the same though from what I've heard the phrasing is more explicit - the cars aren't allowed to shutoff unless the operator shuts it off in order to avoid accidents.  That is to say, a car isn't allowed to automatically shut itself off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is quite simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car doesn't know when it is safe to shutoff.  As others have noted, it would be a bad thing to shutdown the motor on a highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same reasoning applies to the keyless ignition system.  If you shut off the car when the keyless fob goes out of range, then there's no telling where the vehicle is.  So, the car must keep running until the operator shuts it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what makes the RSA attack on keyless systems possible.  The thief uses a radio relay to make the car think the fob is close by, then starts the car and drives off.  Once it is running, he can drive it anywhere as long as he doesn't stop the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-theft systems here also have to follow this law.  If the thief can manage to start your car, then the law says he's got to be able to drive off with it and not have the motor shutoff while the car is being driven.  This is not to help the thief, it is to protect other drivers when the thief gets out on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The anti-theft systems thing was bandied around here back in the 1990's.  There were imported systems from the US that would shutoff the fuel pump if the car was hotwired - this is the same as having the motor shutoff.  These imported anti-theft systems were illegal here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15809" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:07:54.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:11:48.677" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have reasonable access to the nut, I'd suggest using a nut splitter to split the nut and open it out, which should then allow you to withdraw the bolt and remove the parts - obviously both nut and bolt will need to be replaced, but you'd already worked that out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:11:48.677" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:24:10.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be 4 degrees ambient, but 0 or less degrees on the road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about the morning when it has been sub-zero overnight, the sun has warmed the air but the ground hasn't caught up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:24:10.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27258" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:33:55.363" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question, while we probably can't just ring up a tool manufacturer and ask, we can derive it with some accuracy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum socket size I can find for 1/2&quot; is 36mm, that translates to an M24 fixing: &lt;a href=&quot;http://stainlessautomotivefastenings.co.uk/pdfs/HEXAGONHEADIDENTIFIER.pdf&quot;&gt;http://stainlessautomotivefastenings.co.uk/pdfs/HEXAGONHEADIDENTIFIER.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard torque figures for an M24 using a 12.9 grade fixing (strongest grade) is &lt;strong&gt;926 lb ft&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm&quot;&gt;http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it would reasonable to say that, even with a tiny factor of safety, a 1/2 drive extension should be able to handle 1000 lb ft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the same logic to 3/8&quot;, that would be a 22mm (M14) fixing, which equates to &lt;strong&gt;177 lb ft&lt;/strong&gt;. So 130 lb ft plus seizure could well exceed the limit for 3/8&quot; hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T14:39:02.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:39:02.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27331" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:50:11.980" Score="5" ViewCount="2359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any carbon steel thread that suffers from prolonged exposure to air, moisture and (sometimes) salt will suffer from rust, sometimes to the point where &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/27319/675&quot;&gt;it creates problems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many fixes exist to remove a seized nut or bolt, I want to know if there are smarter fixes out there to &lt;em&gt;prevent&lt;/em&gt; or at least &lt;em&gt;minimize&lt;/em&gt; corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engineering theory will suggest the following generic strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;physical prevention&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like applying coatings that don't let moisture reach the steel itself&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;chemical inhibition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like sacrificial protection through zinc coatings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;change of material&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like using a brass instead of steel&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to reiterate my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What rust-inhibition strategies exist that are accessible to the average automotive DIY-er?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:52:50.977" Title="What options are there to minimize thread corrosion in rust-prone applications?" Tags="|rust|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27330" CreationDate="2016-03-18T14:52:50.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First one that comes to mind is anti-seize compound. Some are a mix of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricant. I use this all the time on my lugs nuts (2000 Toyota Camry with steel wheels) and it seems to keep the rust monster from seizing the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T14:52:50.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27335" CreationDate="2016-03-18T15:05:46.033" Score="3" ViewCount="2692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 2012 Ford Fiesta S (5-speed manual) a couple days ago. It's running great, but I noticed the speedometer reads about 3 MPH too high at around 55 MPH when comparing to the speed on my phone/GPS. The speed reported by my phone exactly matched the speedometer on my old Cavalier, so I'm assuming the Fiesta is a bit off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fiesta reads 0 MPH while stopped, so the zero point is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some user-servicable way to adjust the calibration? If it involves buying a $100-200 tool to connect to the OBD-II port, it probably wouldn't be too hard to talk me into that, since I'm sure I'd find other useful things to do with it. I have an Actron scanner, but I don't believe it's capable of changing any ECM parameters, apart from clearing trouble codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are 185/60R15, which matches the label inside the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled up the digital speedometer (which is hidden in the instrument panel test mode), and also hooked up the Actron, and those two readings agreed with each other, not surprisingly. Both showed within 1 MPH of the speed displayed on my phone, whereas the analog needle was another 2 - 3 MPH higher than that. So it seems like it's just a needle issue, meaning my odometer and MPG calculations won't be way off at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The needle's zero point is correct, though, so I don't think it's just a matter of ripping the dash apart and repositioning it on the stepper. Is there any way to adjust the scaling of the needle's movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15811" LastEditorUserId="15811" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T13:03:12.753" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T13:03:12.753" Title="2012 Ford Fiesta S speedometer calibration" Tags="|ford|speedometer|fiesta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T15:50:47.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a similar situation (car, not a bike) once and I didn't know about nut splitters (see Nick C answer) at that time.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to get at the nut with a Dremel and a very small (1&quot; diameter) cutting disk with a flexible extension between the Dremel and the disk.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With the disk I was able to slice diagonally across the nut (couldn't get the angle to slice along the length of the bolt).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then I was able to pry the nut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11458" LastEditorUserId="11458" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T16:39:15.793" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:39:15.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27332" CreationDate="2016-03-18T16:01:12.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;UK type approval states that a speedometer may read with upto a 10% error provided that the speed shown is either true or over.  A speedometer may not under read when a car is new.  Most manufacturers therefore calibrate their speedos for a slight overread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must also remember that the difference between tyres with new tread and those worn to the UK legal limit may be as much as 6mm difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the OBD-II spec &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, Mode 01 PID 0D should report vehicle speed in km/h.  It may be worth checking this against the readout your dashboard is giving you as there may be some difference here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that there is any scope for recalibration within standard OBD-II CAB-BUS protocol but am happy to be proved one.  As for Ford specific protocols, I'm afraid I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:01:12.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T16:55:56.217" Score="5" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of rebuilding my first 4L60-E  (I've done a 4L30-E  before) and I had a couple questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st: In terms of the input drum pistons I know there are both aluminum and steel models, and that the new steel models need new return springs to work due to centrifugal forces bending the springs. I do not have the return springs needed for the new overrun clutch piston but I already bought new bonded pistons for each of these. Is there any chance I could interchange these? Meaning could I use new steel bonded 3/4 and forward pistons but use the old aluminium overrun piston, or do I have to use all of the same kind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd: My current understanding is that the pressure manifold switch is used to essentially tell the computer what position the manual valve is in. Save for a lengthy explanation, lets just say I do not need this functionality in terms of electronics. Would it be problematic if I were to not reinstall the pressure manifold switch? Could I simply block off the holes where the fluid would go if it were there or is this something that would cause internal problems in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be more questions in the future but thanks for the help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastEditorUserId="13624" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T22:18:48.660" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T22:18:48.660" Title="GM 4L60-E Rebuild Questions - Part 1" Tags="|automatic-transmission|gm|4l60e|rebuild|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27351" CreationDate="2016-03-18T17:37:36.830" Score="3" ViewCount="6463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used Volvo V40 (2002). It worked great for about two weeks, after which the central locking stopped working. The FOB doesn't do anything, and each door has to be locked and unlocked separately like back in the old days. The worst thing is that the passenger-side doors are completely locked and I can't open them at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I suspect the problem lies either in the relay or the central locking control unit. How would I know which one is it? I already checked the fuses and they're all OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know where the control unit is located (under the CD player) and is seemingly easy to take out and replace, but they're not really available anywhere. I personally suspect the relay more since there's no relay clicking when the locks are used. However, I don't know which relay it is or where it's located. I also couldn't find any &quot;central locking relays&quot; in the local shop's catalog - I hope it's a standard relay you can buy anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15815" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T18:24:28.763" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T21:41:56.503" Title="Volvo V40 - How to locate the fault in central locking?" Tags="|volvo|locks|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T17:45:11.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last picture it looks like damaged threads sticking out, so my guess is that you're correct that it is stripped there. If you can have a helper spin the bolt (ideally with an impact wrench) while you hold the nut with a wrench and pry on the tip of the bolt (toward the bolt axis in the direction to remove it), perhaps the area of intact threads will bite into the nut. Spinning the bolt fast enough with an air or electric driver will help this approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't possible, cutting the nut is your next best option. It looks too tight for a nut splitter, but perhaps a grinder/cutoff wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2609" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T17:45:11.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T18:10:51.360" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a transmission filter kit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, my car has a little over 2k miles on it. I am not sure what kind of maintenance it's had in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT with a manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15753" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T22:32:12.230" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T08:52:23.097" Title="What is a transmission filter kit?" Tags="|toyota|manual-transmission|celica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27299" CreationDate="2016-03-18T18:20:18.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some people had a procedure for changing behavior of the seatbelt chime described right in the manual, cars of various brands and various models not specifically yours. Many require buckling and unbuckling the seatbelt a certain number of times really fast, in some cases the key needed to be also in a certain position etc, you find some odd combinations of various actions but often the procedures are described in some corner of the net. However there is who bothered trying procedures used on different brands on their cars and stumbled onto something that worked. Some dealers have a list of what they can change/disable and contacting yours might be faster. &#xA;I came across people finding &quot;hidden&quot; menus in their BMWs while searching the same things for my other cars... but too long ago to remember the details of each procedure and if they could change something about the chimes beyond just testing them. Places like Bimmerforums and M5board would be the first where to start digging for that stuff (and often they already been the guineapig if tweaking some things could create a mess). FYI some methods span various models it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:20:18.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T18:40:22.967" Score="6" ViewCount="6453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 honda civic ex with 110k miles that over heats after freeway speeds. The water pump and timing belt were replaced at 100k miles.The thermostat was recently replaced as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting thing about this situation is that the car doesn't heat up when just driving around town. It is only noticed after 30 min+ of freeway speeds when the car is promptly stopped at a stop light or in traffic congestion. When I see the temperature gauge shoot up to hot (it moves faster than the second hand of a clock), I speed up if possible and it promptly falls back down to the normal operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also noticed when the car is idling that the hot air blows cold air up until the car is moving again when then it returns to hot air. I have checked the coolant levels multiple times and it is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I have no idea what to do next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15818" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T16:59:43.927" Title="2003 honda civic overheats only after freeway speeds" Tags="|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27339" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:07:36.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that what your asking is what maintenance should you do now that this is your car, I would suggest this list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the oil and oil filter, and use a full synthetic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the air filters for the engine and the cabin filter if it has one. I know the Camry of that year does not, but the Celica might&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the power steering fluid, and replace if it's off color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to a reputable garage and get the transmission fluid changed. DO NOT use a place like Jiffy Lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the rubber under the hood. The car is 16 years old (2000 model year was likely built in 1999) so anything rubber is going to be suspect for becoming brittle. Check every hose, look at every grommet you can without taking things apart. Where you can see the grommet look for cracks or breaks in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the rubber under the car. In the Camry at least many of the rubber suspension bushings get old and either drop or, or loose enough to be noisy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the front and rear suspension, look for movement in the front wheels particularly that shouldn't be there. E.G. if you put the car on jack stands, so there is no weight on the front wheels, grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move it back and forth. It should not move. Feel for slack in the motion as you turn the tires by hand. All could be bad tie rods ends, bad bearings, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the front and rear brakes for wear. If you replace the pads, and the rotors are close to gone anyway, might as well replace both the rotors and pads. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for any codes the car might be throwing, even if the check engine light isn't on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the wheels off all 4 corners and check them for damage you might not see from the outside. When you put them back on, put anti-seize compound on them and torque them to the correct specified value. (Even Chiltons / Haynes has this number for you). Doing this on my 2000 Camry took a vibration out that was there under heavy braking. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm forgetting something, but this should take care of most things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T19:07:36.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27350" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:24:30.267" Score="7" ViewCount="3742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to test a water pump for proper function (ability to move a certain volume of coolant) without disconnecting it from the engine? If so, how would one do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T03:17:47.733" Title="How to test the function of a water pump?" Tags="|cooling-system|water-pump|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:45:02.360" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a pre-owned car.  After the purchase I saw there was engine oil in the coolant reservoir and also the coolant level is going down slightly. Engine is not heating up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15820" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T19:49:16.667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T22:43:18.640" Title="I have engine oil in my coolant. What might be the reason?" Tags="|engine|oil|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27344" CreationDate="2016-03-18T19:58:48.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check for when you have oil and coolant mixing is a blown head gasket. Check compression on all of your cylinders with a compression tester (you can borrow them from AutoZone or similar) and specifically look for one or two cylinders that have significantly lower compression than the others (in the range of 30+ psi difference). Another indicator is if you also have coolant mixing with your oil (run the engine, then pull the dipstick out, if it looks like it's covered in chocolate milk, that means there's water and therefore coolant in your oil). Along with that, I suspect that by &quot;Engine is not heating up&quot; you mean &quot;the temperature gauge doesn't go up&quot;, which means your thermostat is probably defunct, which could have caused the kind of overheating that can damage head gaskets, so look into getting that repaired as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15822" LastEditorUserId="15822" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T22:43:18.640" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T22:43:18.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T20:24:20.357" Score="4" ViewCount="8268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Subaru WRX Limited with the touch screen radio. Recently I realized that my radio lost sound just out of no where one day when my car didn't play music.  The navigation and everything works fine, but no sound. I've had this problem for a week now and I checked the fuse for media and it's fine. What's bugging me is that the speakers work when I'm making a phone call through Bluetooth but when I play a song through it's silent. Nothing from AM/FM radio will work either but it works through AUX input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it very strange and I was wondering what could be causing my speakers to not play music?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15823" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:11:13.497" LastActivityDate="2019-08-03T17:29:51.743" Title="Radio not playing music through speakers" Tags="|subaru|audio|wrx|speakers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27071" CreationDate="2016-03-18T20:30:49.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is what you were asking, but there are several configurations where there are no lifters (or at least, no push-rods) in an engine, where the valves are driven either through rocker arms or directly by the camshaft(s). Such a configuration is an OHC (overhead cam) configuration. SOHC are higher performance and lighter (and so typically have a higher rev range) than underhead cams with lifters. In SOHC (single overhead cam) setups you'll see a single camshaft driving rocker arms that actuate the valves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eQMD.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eQMD.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas in DOHC (dual overhead cam) setups you'll see two cams directly driving the valves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsLbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsLbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOHC valvetrains give the highest performance of conventional setups, and have the lowest inertia and so highest rev range, but they are somewhat more difficult to service due to the fact you need to keep the timing of the two camshafts in sync as well as each camshaft to the crankshaft timing. Not only that, the valve clearances on a SOHC can usually be adjusted by turning adjuster screws on the rocker arms, where on DOHC valvetrains you need to replace shims on the tappets to adjust valve clearance, which usually involves removing the camshaft(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for tappets, you'll see shim-over-bucket, shim-under-bucket, hemispherical, and desmodromic (pretty much Ducati engines only, but very cool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shim-over-bucket has a spacer shim on top of the tappet that is the contact piece for the camshaft or rocker arm, but this picture illustrates one of the downsides of this setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIYhv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIYhv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At high speeds in DOHC configurations, it is possible for the swiping of the cam lobe across the shim to cause it to pop out of its slot and cause damage to the valvetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is solved by shim-under-bucket tappets, which are similar but the shim is under the bucket (hence the name):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUb9n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUb9n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epoP5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epoP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a downside to using these as opposed to shim-over-bucket, except for the fact that shims can sometimes be removed from shim-over-bucket tappets without removing the camshaft, which makes service easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for hemispherical tappets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOHl3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOHl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point is to make service easier, as in these setups there's an arm that's anchored to the cylinder head that has its end between the camshaft and valve, and has a hemispherical shim that sits in a depression in the arm, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzIJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzIJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arm can be removed very quickly by removing a clip and sliding it off to the side, rather than needing to remove the camshaft, but this system still allows for a DOHC valvetrain. Notice the dual valve springs in the picture. This is to reduce the amount of time it takes for the valve to return once opened in order to reduce the possibility of valve float and therefore, again, raise the potential rev limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, Ducati's desmodromic valves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jpRK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jpRK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are about as complicated as they look. This uses three camshafts, where the two on the ends are responsible for directly opening the valves, and the camshaft in the center is responsible for forcing the valves closed again via rocker arms. This (in theory and for the most part in practice) eliminates valve float and removes valvetrain inertia as a rev limiting factor. This means that you may see insane (20k!) redlines on engines with desmodromic valves. However, they are AWFUL to service (in my opinion), due to the number of moving parts and shims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this all helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15822" LastEditorUserId="15822" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T16:28:44.813" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T16:28:44.813" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27343" CreationDate="2016-03-18T21:09:51.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering this too as a lot of overheating related questions come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways water pumps fail - leaks and impeller failure.  Leaks can typically be seen, so they are easier to diagnose.  Impeller failure is difficult to detect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the engine will overheat, but the heater core and radiator will still be cold.  With a thermostat failure, the radiator will be cold, but the heater core should still get hot.  This leads to a possible false positive if the heater core is plugged and the thermostat failed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-23T03:17:47.733" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T03:17:47.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27337" CreationDate="2016-03-18T21:51:55.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a mechanical relay it's all controlled by the Guard Lock and Alarm module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain access to the module and test for power on pins A26 (green/red) B1 (red) and B8 (white). Test for ground on pin A1 (black)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on those pins check fuses 7 &amp;amp; 8 in the under dash fuse box. And fuse 9 in the engine compartment fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ground in the left kick panel there should be a ground splice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have power &amp;amp; ground at the module check pins B2 (gray/white) and B12 (green/gray) for output when pressing a lock switch. I believe gray/white will be power and green/gray will be ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't any output likely the GLA module is bad and needs to be replaced. This may be rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the switches by pulling the driver switch and checking for ground on pin 2 (black) and when pressing a switch ground on either pin 1 (brown/gray) or pin 3 (yellow/gray). And checking pins A16 &amp;amp; A18 at the GLA module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you're going to have a fuse or wiring issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T21:51:55.217" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T21:52:43.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the good vertical access to the bolt, I'd cut it off with a sawzall using a fine hacksaw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T21:52:43.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2016-03-18T22:26:15.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bolt is turning inside of the nut, that would indicate to me the threads are stripped either on the bolt or the nut (duh, right?). If you can get a third hand to help you, you'll need it for what I have proposed. If you can place a flat tip screwdriver on the tip of the bolt and pry it back towards the nut, then hold the nut with your wrench (spanner), then turn the bolt counterclockwise while holding the screwdriver tight, you may be able to get the bolt to nut interface to grab and then allow you to take the bolt out. If this works, once the nut is a little away from the frame, you can place the screwdriver between the frame and nut until it comes apart the rest of the way. (Hopefully this makes sense.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T22:26:15.127" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27356" CreationDate="2016-03-18T22:46:48.800" Score="4" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Civic.  Over the past couple of years I have had to have both front lower ball joints replaced multiple times.  The last time I had these replaced I had used my car less than 4,000 miles.  I don't really drive it anywhere that should cause this kind of wear and tear.  Generally, to and from work on a highway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just wondering if there is something bigger going on here that I am unaware of.  Is the shop raking me over the coals?  Or is it possible that a problem exists further upstream that is causing these constant failures?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7388" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T01:04:58.903" Title="Ball joints and boots are constantly in need of replacement?" Tags="|honda|civic|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T01:02:33.487" Score="16" ViewCount="15734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH with about 180,000 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the past 12-18 months, I've noticed consistent strange behavior:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very prone to skidding when braking on uneven roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much earlier loss of traction when cornering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I hit slightly rough patches of road, especially when braking or cornering, it kind of feels like the car &quot;skips&quot; a little. I can't explain it, but e.g if I'm making a turn on a highway and hit a seam in the road, I get the sensation of bouncing to the outside slightly (it doesn't feel like understeering, it feels... weird and slightly out of control).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very prone to laying tire when getting started or upshifting at slow speeds (&amp;lt; 20 mph). (Highly unusual for this car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I feel smaller bumps in the road a bit more, especially regular ridges from the way the roads are constructed. But I can't tell if this is in my head or not. Also I moved about 2 years ago and regularly drive on a different set of highways now, so it could just be that the roads here are particularly uneven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My steering wheel is about 3-4 degrees right to keep the car straight. It's stable here, it doesn't pull. I don't know if this indicates a problem though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behaviors have slowly been getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I don't keep the car in the greatest shape mostly because I do a lot of city driving and the roads around here are pretty rough, so I can't usually justify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's starting to become a problem. I'm going to take it to a shop. But I don't want to spend money going down the wrong path. So my question is: &lt;strong&gt;What are the most likely causes of this that I can check out first?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research, I have at least a partial list, although I'm not sure which matches the symptoms the closest, or what I'm missing. So far I've got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged suspension linkage components (after writing this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27355/possible-causes-for-poor-traction-and-handling#comment43729_27355&quot;&gt;I discovered&lt;/a&gt; a slightly bent control arm in the front left, which is also throwing out the alignment).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alignment (it's been a while, and the car's been on a lot of rough roads)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn shocks (all the suspension components are still the originals w/ 180k miles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire wear (but I did get a brand new set of tires about a year ago and I don't remember it helping much; right now I have three of those plus one random used one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27355/possible-causes-for-poor-traction-and-handling#comment43809_27355&quot;&gt;Damaged or worn out sway bar&lt;/a&gt; (I'll have to take it apart to check).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27355/possible-causes-for-poor-traction-and-handling#comment43819_27355&quot;&gt;ATTS malfunction&lt;/a&gt; (it would have to be something the computer isn't detecting, I'm not seeing any errors).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27355/possible-causes-for-poor-traction-and-handling#comment43904_27355&quot;&gt;Engine / gearbox mount failure&lt;/a&gt;, causing weight shifts and unpredictable behavior.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something with the brakes? Like pressure or alignment problems? Can that happen? (My pads / rotors / calipers are in good shape) ABS problems? (the skidding isn't only when braking though, and I have no error indicators, and it doesn't feel like ABS issues anyways)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel balance (shouldn't be causing the problems I'm seeing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that there's more than one thing going on at the same time contributing to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra random info in responses to comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not make noise over bumps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No brake wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Skipping&quot; generally settles immediately upon returning to a better road surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No problems with tight U-turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While steering wheel is off by a couple degrees, the steering itself is still super tight, no problems there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no error codes, and no dash warning indicators are lit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still has the original sway bar (all suspension and linkage components are still the originals except the front left half shaft, which is about 2 and a half years old).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T06:43:30.333" Title="Possible causes for poor traction and handling" Tags="|honda|prelude|handling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27354" CreationDate="2016-03-19T01:04:58.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be that the shop is using a product that uses a plastic bushing in the balljoint. Does the balljoint have a grease fitting on it? If so it should be regreased every oil change. Installation error could also cause premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have to cut the balljoint open to see what caused the failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you doubt what the shop is telling you you can always check for yourself or have another shop take a look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T01:04:58.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T02:36:36.903" Score="6" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Buick Century and whenever it is dark out my car turns my lights on automatically upon turning the car on, the right blinker stays solid. This has been going on for a while but now when I signal to turn my left dashboard lights up and my entire car dies. Also, my left turn signal now blinks incredibly fast so I replaced the bulb today and it's doing the same thing and I just put a new battery in my car two days ago. I'm going to replace the combination flasher relay but I'm not sure if that is the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the combination flasher relay today and I'm still having the same problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastEditorUserId="15828" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T21:09:35.147" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T03:06:50.700" Title="2003 Buick Century Right Turn Signal Stuck when dark out, car dies when left gets used" Tags="|lights|buick|century|dashboard|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T14:45:52.007" Score="4" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was sitting at a dead stop at a traffic light when a pickup truck rear-ended me. I drive a Honda Accord and the bumper withstood the impact pretty well but still needs to be replaced. Immediately after the incident I heard rattling from my engine and it's a cracked engine mount. I just had the engine mount fixed a year ago so my question is whether it's typical for them to only last a year and whether an impact like that could have cracked it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15831" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T20:30:41.080" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T22:52:12.000" Title="Can getting rear ended crack your engine mount?" Tags="|engine|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3110" CreationDate="2016-03-19T15:35:30.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just replaced a single coil on my 12 year old car, I can tell you that the handling has been significantly affected.  The car now tends to oversteer and no longer handles bumps as it used to.  I will be replacing the second coil immediately.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15833" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T15:35:30.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27363" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:01:58.323" Score="6" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an answer to another questions @Ceshion introduced a fascinating kind of valve train that I have never heard of, desmodromic valves, as introduced by Ducatti.&#xA;That answer is here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27071/what-are-the-various-kinds-of-tappets-lifters-and-the-advantages-disadvantag&quot;&gt;What are the various kinds of tappets / lifters and the advantages / disadvantages of each&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is the image she provided as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCVSE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCVSE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Desmodromic valves example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these only used in motorcycles, if not, where else is this used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the complete lack of valve float, just how high can these rev? What is the next limiting factor in how high they can rev (ignoring the rest of the engine for now. Unless the only other thing that would rev limit is something in the bottom end.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much more or less reliable are these than the usual modern valve train setups?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these restricted to racing or are there street applications for these?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone but Ducatti use these or are they patented by Ducatti?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the lack of valve float, how much bigger and heavier can the valves get to allow more flow and more power?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the looks of it, the position of the valve is totally dependent on the cam followers for both opening and closing cam shafts putting it exactly where it needs to be. There are no springs or hydraulics to take out any slop in the system. How does a system like this account for wear on the mating surfaces? Is there any adjustment in a system like this? Do they leak more than the usual setup because it's hard to get the closing and opening cams to position the valve for a good seal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does a system like this require higher oil pressure to prevent premature wear as the revs go higher?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high revs means so much more power, there have to be down sides to this for them not to be in use in a lot of places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T01:39:10.250" Title="What are the characteristics and uses for desmodromic valves?" Tags="|engine-theory|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27362" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:12:35.910" Score="21" ViewCount="24226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the specific mechanism used by car ECU's to detect misfires is, or are if there is more than one method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T18:15:01.193" LastActivityDate="2023-01-05T16:43:21.067" Title="How does the car's ECU detect a misfire?" Tags="|ignition|electronic-control-module|misfire|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27361" CreationDate="2016-03-19T17:41:24.647" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;This comes directly from this web site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdii.com/articles/Onboard_Diagnostics_Demystified.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.obdii.com/articles/Onboard_Diagnostics_Demystified.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it says, is that early OBD-II systems could not detect misfires, but since then a few variations on the theme have been implemented. The basic idea is that if a cylinder fires, it gives a kick to the crankshaft causing a slight variation in crank shaft rotation speed. The ECU has sensors that tell it the position of the crank shaft, from which it knows which cylinder should be firing next. When an ignition happens as it should, that's the power stoke and it gives a little kick to the crankshaft causing a slight increase in the RPM. The ECU sensors can tell it the crank position closely enough that it detects that slight increase. If the slight increase doesn't happen, the ECU knows that there was no ignition on that cylinder. Which is also how it knows which cylinder didn't fire, and how it reports which one it was through the code it throws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:00:19.553" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:00:19.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27360" CreationDate="2016-03-19T18:11:04.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can actually answer some of this question as well. There are other companies that use them, while Ducati is the best known. Ducati uses them in their racing as well as streetbike engines. Mercedes Benz is another company that uses them, namely in F1 engines. The theoretical limiting factor, the best I understand it, is heat and friction. There's no practical reason to work the engine so hard as to reach those limits. They are somewhat less reliable, due to the complexity and number of parts that need to stay in sync, and power delivery is similarly less reliable. There are, in fact, springs in most desmodromic valve setups, they just aren't used for cam following. They are, however, used to reduce slack in the system, as can be seen in the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMwmV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMwmV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also shows an alternative setup to what I described in the other post, in that this example uses the same camshaft for both opening and closing the valves. They are adjusted with shims, labelled in the diagram above. This is what makes them such a nightmare to service, since there are two clearances on each valve that interact with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for what I don't know: I'm not sure how the oil pressure needs compare to conventional valves, but keep in mind that in most cases as engine RPMs go up, so does oil pressure. So it may be necessary, yes, but it may also be produced somewhat automatically as a byproduct of such high speed. Also, I'm not really sure how potential valve sizes compare, however I haven't personally seen a huge difference in valve sizes between desmodromic and conventional setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15822" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T18:11:04.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:33:38.827" Score="5" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors on my 2013 VW Jetta TDI and I'm completely baffled by what type of screw this set screw or alignment screw is in the rotor face. It's 6-pointed so im guessing it's a Torx but I have tried T25 which is too small and T27 is too big. There isn't a T26. VW service departments tell me it's a T30 but there is no way. T27 is to big! Any help would keep me from blowing up this stupid car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0NWH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A0NWH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15835" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T22:44:07.663" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T22:44:07.663" Title="Identifying fastener on 2013 VW Jetta TDI brake rotor" Tags="|brakes|vw|tools|jetta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27381" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:41:19.290" Score="4" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torquing to a manufacturer's spec is important when working on an engine but I've wondered how do you properly determine if an adjustable torque wrench has been zeroed out over it's life and is still accurate?  Is there a life to a torque wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:26:40.157" Title="How can you assure a torque wrench is working properly?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T19:46:56.950" Score="14" ViewCount="63013" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900200692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spark tester with an adjustable gap&lt;/a&gt; set to the correct gap for my car's ignition system voltage, what should the spark look like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I've seen conflicting opinions on this matter.  For example, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en/support/faqs/ignition-system-theory-and-testing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brigg's and Stratton site&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bright blue spark is best. A yellow/orange spark signifies weak ignition.  &lt;strong&gt;Not true. Spark color determines virtually nothing.&lt;/strong&gt; The hottest spark is ultraviolet which we can't see. Blue spark is cold in comparison to ultra-violet. Orange and yellow come from particles of sodium in the air ionizing in the high energy of the spark gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they are talking about small air cooled engines, and are using a specific Briggs and Stratton spark tester with a fixed gap for small air cooled engines, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002WO227G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the 19368 model&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426369-A-Better-Spark-Tester&amp;amp;p=512343#post512343&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's another person&lt;/a&gt; saying spark color doesn't matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might note though that the very fast, very high voltage sparks in todays systems usually are not blue. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This poster &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/comment/2978781/#Comment_2978781&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on another site responding to a similar question about the above Briggs and Stratton quote says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an automobile ignition system the spark should be bright blue. That's because the compression ratio is higher than that on an air cooled small engine. An automobile engine operates under a transient condition where the RMP's change so fuel demand changes. Where with most air cooled small engines they operate under a static condition or a steady state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compression ratio of an engine and the amount of fuel being delivered can have an effect on how well the spark plug fires. This is called quenching the spark. A low compression engine running at a steady state with a constant fuel supply won't quench even a spark plug with a yellow spark. But on an automotive engine with a higher compresssion ratio and under transient conditions the yellow spark can get quenched thereby causing a misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another guy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426369-A-Better-Spark-Tester&amp;amp;p=512371#post512371&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;saying basically the same thing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended 7/16&amp;quot; gap has always worked for me on outboard motors. I use mine in line between the spark plug installed normally in the engine and the plug wire. This means that the spark must jump the 7/16&amp;quot; gap and the spark plug gap in the motor while running. You can then also increase engine rpm to verify spark at higher speeds. My experience has shown a strong blue spark with a noticeable popping noise in a healthy ignition. The gap is determined by the amount of voltage generated by the ignition, spark plug gap, and the compression ratio. Most manuals will give an air gap recommendation for a spark test. An air/gas mixture at high pressure creates a much denser gap for the spark to jump then in out in the open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the background to tell who's right and was wondering if someone more knowledgeable could give me some verification here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note 7/16th is about 1.1cm, and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breakdown_voltage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;breakdown voltage&lt;/a&gt; for air at sea level is about 30kv/cm.  Also of note is &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/a/186311/111847&quot;&gt;this answer on the physics stack exchange&lt;/a&gt; which says that the blue color of air sparks comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionized-air_glow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ionization&lt;/a&gt; of nitrogen atoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other point of interest is that the power of light is inversely proportional to it's wavelength, meaning blue light is about 40% more powerful than orange light based on the ratio of their wavelengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, someone else has basically asked a very similar question over on the physics stack exchange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/q/188345/111847&quot;&gt;Is their a visual difference between air-gap sparks of the same voltage but different current?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had personal experience with seeing a yellow/orange spark, doing a repair and then seeing a nice strong blue spark with a disappearance of the performance problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T07:37:53.877" Title="What Color Should the Spark Be When Using a Spark Tester?" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="20" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27378" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:33:24.100" Score="4" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the A/C discharged on an older truck (2001 Grand Cherokee 4.7L v8), and soon I plan to remove the entire A/C system, specifically, the compressor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything that I should be concerned about in doing so (defrost and cabin cooling are not a concern).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After removing it, is there any reason for me not to just use a shorter belt?  It will clear everything without issue.  The alternative being to make a bracket and put a pulley in place of the compressor pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12910" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:05:58.500" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:05:58.500" Title="Should I use a shorter accessory belt?" Tags="|ac|jeep|belt|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:41:29.963" Score="6" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my husband brand new tires about 3 years ago, he never put them on his car. Are they still good to put on a rim, or no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15841" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T03:12:13.693" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T08:05:29.097" Title="Tires for my husband's Mustang" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27361" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:45:35.567" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine misfire can also be detected by looking at the coil voltage just after the plug is fired. When the fuel/air mixture actually ignites there are lots of ions and radicals floating around. This provides an easier path for electricity from the coil. If the mixture does not ignite for any reason the resistance is extremely high. An observant auto tech should be able to see this subtle voltage issue on a coil oscilloscope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change in resistance observation is over 100 years old, and is used in a device called a &lt;strong&gt;FID&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambustion.com/products/hfr500/fast-fid-principles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flame Ionisation  Detector&lt;/a&gt;). This technology is common on gas heaters; in other words you can tell if a flame has gone out. I know that Volkswagen have implemented this in at least one of their cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summing up: you can detect misfire by looking at spark plug voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T12:08:43.787" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T12:08:43.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27361" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:46:38.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Variations in current drawn by the &lt;em&gt;&quot;high-tension&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (HT) coils can also identify misfires to the engine ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one reference that I found to back this up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AutoTap: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/analyzing_ignition_misfires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Analyzing Ignition Misfires&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.fo/qwPhr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;(archive)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T12:07:21.963" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T12:07:21.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27358" CreationDate="2016-03-19T22:52:12.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your engine/motor mount was degraded at the time of impact it could have broken.  By degraded I mean, if it was seriously rusted or on it's way to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A healthy motor mount should take a serious amount of force to break.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A photograph of the point of failure would help to identify if it was on it's way to failure or not.  As well, the failure could have been on the frame, the bolt or the engine.  Determining exactly where the failure occurred should give you the breadcrumbs to truly answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T22:52:12.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27355" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:03:17.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your front tires aren't staying with the road. Without more specific information its hard to give a specific answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you check differential (or transaxle) or components that could affect alignment, such as shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try to pay attention to how it behaves when both tires are being affected or only one side is being affected by road conditions at a time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What happens when you do a U-turn from standstill? How do the tires behave?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RE: u-turns are fine.&lt;/strong&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Make sure u-turns are good in both directions and fine with both situations of no throttle and some throttle. be safe, open lot)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If thats all good then I am going to say your differential is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180k on stock shocks.. they are goners, done-zos, kaput. Without that &quot;fixed&quot;, there is no complete fixing the rest, even if there are any other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly it sounds like something new shocks + alignment would fix. Bushings too probably, if you can (it'll help get rid of the tiny bumps you might be feeling now).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How is the ride height? What is it feel like on the freeway (more rapid bumps?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T01:54:01.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T01:54:01.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27370" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:10:40.973" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The condition of the tires would depend on how the tires were stored&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber can degrade under certain conditions.  If left outside, ultra-violet light can accelerate degradation of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If left on dirt with moisture underneath and in the weather they could also be in a degraded state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tires wrapped and sealed if they are going to be stored for an extended period of time would assist in increasing their potential lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the tires in a cool and dry location is the second best circumstance.  Storing sealed is the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry Rot&lt;/strong&gt; would probably be your primary concern after years of rubber/tire storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can spot dry rot by feeling the surface of the tire.  It will be hard and brittle. The oils in the rubber evaporate and the chemical bonds degrade leaving behind a hard and brittle rubber that's dangerous to use.  Most claims state that 3-5 years without sealing in a tire in optimum conditions could leave a dry rotted tire behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=37&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are some tips from a retailer regarding tire storage.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a tire with mild dry rot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXoH8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXoH8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T08:05:29.097" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T08:05:29.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27364" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:22:10.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use this fancy tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You push and turn the 'screw' at the same time to release the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's in German Brake loaner tool kits from most of the big automotive parts chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Enyn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Enyn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools kits for these brakes look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGF12.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGF12.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T23:22:10.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27364" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:22:11.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input. It ended up being whats called a polydrive tip. Ridiculous how VW goes to such lengths to get you into a service department. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15835" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T23:22:11.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27369" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:25:13.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the routing it may work with a shorter belt. But it may not have enough tension to drive the water pump without slipping. Dorman may make an A/C delete pulley/bracket. Which would keep the original belt routing and length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKiih.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKiih.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T23:25:13.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27360" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:39:10.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are these only used in motorcycles, if not, where else is this used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No other manufacturers of motorcycles currently leverage the desmodromic system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given the complete lack of valve float, just how high can these rev?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ducati_Desmosedici#GP7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ducati GP7&lt;/a&gt; MotoGP platform of 2007 revved to as high as 19,000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the next limiting factor in how high they can rev?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a shorter stroke with larger valves and less reciprocating throw in the valve will allow the next increment in RPM.  Currently the intake tract is reaching the speed of sound which imposes issues of back pressure and stalled air pockets within the intake tract.  The current GP15.X and GP16 RPM's numbers are, as of yet, unpublished by Ducati but speculation has them at 20K + RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much more or less reliable are these than the usual modern valve train setups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The have more moving parts, we can surmise that reliability is tied to simplicity.  My own experience with Ducati Desmodromic valve trains professionally has been very good.  Statistics for failure rates are not available but I believe we would see that they have an overall lower tolerance to long term stress cycles than a standard under the bucket shim valve train that is used in most high performance modern motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are these restricted to racing or are there street applications for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ducati uses this valve train in all of it's production and racing vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given the lack of valve float, how much bigger and heavier can the valves get to allow more flow and more power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would defer a response from a mechanical engineer as the mathamagic get's pretty complex surrounding the stresses at such high RPM's.  Additionally, all of the weight and angle information would need to be published to answer this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone but Ducatti use these or are they patented by Ducatti?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No other manufacturer currently uses this system.  Mercedes used them in F1 in 1954 and 1955.  Ducati has patents on various components but this design goes back to steam engines in late 19th Century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.desmodromology.nl/true-desmodromic-systems-in-internal-combustion-engines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fairly comprehensive list of of true uses of a desmodromic systems&lt;/a&gt; in internal combustion engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How does a system like this account for wear on the mating surfaces? Is there any adjustment in a system like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older two valve Ducati SR2 engines suffered from increased wear with particular poppet valve angles.  Current and legacy platforms use a helical spring on the negative rocker to prevent bounce and seal the valves properly upon closure.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/228945138_Modelling_the_elastodynamic_behaviour_of_a_desmodromic_valve_train&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the modeling on a Ducati design&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does a system like this require higher oil pressure to prevent premature wear as the revs go higher?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil pressure tolerances on modern platforms are within normal smaller rocker arm designs of the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downsides&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More mass&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More moving parts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased inertial mass to the overall ICE&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complexity of maintance/valve adjustment&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturing costs are higher&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More weight above the center of gravity of the motorcycle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T01:39:10.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27365" CreationDate="2016-03-20T02:26:40.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is calibration equipment to zero torque wrenches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snap-On makes this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bI6oW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bI6oW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://buy1.snapon.com/PRODUCTS/TORQUE/pdf/techangle/Internet%20Accessible%20CALIBRATION%20PROCEDURE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a procedure&lt;/a&gt; for calibrating one of their digital torque wrenches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've wondered how do you properly determine if an adjustable torque wrench has been zeroed out over it's life and is still accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various procedures to accomplish this based upon manufacturer.  Many Craftsman outlets will perform the task free of charge as will Snap-On and Matco in their trucks.  If not, there are typically procedures available if you have the measuring equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a life to a torque wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are infinitely rebuildable by replacing failed or out of spec components over time.  I have not seen one that isn't but typically I procuring 'higher end' equipment as was a mechanic in another life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T02:26:40.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28942" CreationDate="2016-03-20T06:01:05.027" Score="4" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have basic understanding of gearboxes and why we use them, but what is baffling me is that after about 4000 RPM (at least in my car) it doesn't accelerate further (or it does slowly)...  This seems to apply to any kind of gearbox. For example in bicycles, when we select a lower gear after a while we feel with no resistance under our feet and the bicycle will not accelerate more. If we add more revs, why don't we get more speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15844" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T18:31:40.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:20:29.943" Title="Why after a certain RPM with the same gear selected the car no longer accelerates?" Tags="|transmission|gears|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T09:03:28.563" Score="9" ViewCount="11430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 Camry LE (v6) and I'm in the process of replacing the water pump.  One of the prerequisites for accessing the pump is crank pulley removal.  User cdunn (thanks a bunch for the suggestions) provided me with info on the starter bump method for crank bolt removal (since I don't have an impact gun) and managed to fail at every attempt.  When filming myself doing this, I would turn over the engine with the camera facing the crank bolt.  I noticed that when the socket was on the bolt (and socket attached to breaker bar which is snug against my control arm) and I bump the starter, the crank doesnt make a full revolution...it seems to either get stuck - like theres not enough torque - or it senses something blocking it and doesnt turn.  After removing the socket, and bumping the starter with nothing on the bolt, the crankshaft turns fine...help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T14:58:18.560" Title="Why won't my crankshaft turn a full rotation?" Tags="|pulley|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15565" CreationDate="2016-03-20T09:36:10.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran across a scientific journal article which provides some statements with some hard data and some additional references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090447912000883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Impact of spark plug number of ground electrodes on engine stability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it was believed that less amount of material near the gap is a major contributing factor for more rapid growth of the flame kernels. This means that larger electrodes increase the heat loss from the initial flame kernel while the rate of initial flame kernel development is adversely affected [2] and [3]. &lt;strong&gt;Herweg and Ziegler [2] found that reducing the contact areas between the flame kernel and the spark plug which can be achieved either by reducing the electrode diameter and/or increasing the gap leads to a faster flame kernel development&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In spite of the reduction of the electrode diameter contradicts to its durability, a fine end design has been adopted by different researchers [2], [3], [4], [5] and [6] to reduce surface interference of the flame contact between the electrode end and flame kernel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was reported by Hori et al. [3] that a fine ground electrode would increase performance but also noted that durability requirements make the construction of a fine-wire ground strap difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The results presented in [3] and [7] showed that a spark plug with fine center and ground electrodes produced lower combustion variation with a reduction of approximately 3.1% in COV and 2.4% in the fuel consumption compared to regular spark plugs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is widely accepted that the early flame development deeply influences the subsequent combustion phase [8]. Accordingly, small differences in the kernel formation rate or location may produce significant in-cylinder pressure variations [9]. Pischinger and Heywood [10] found that the cyclic variation of flame propagation near the spark plug influences the amount of heat release at the spark plug gap and this greatly influences the so-called rapid burn angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further down it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results showed that the amount of crossover of the ground strap, the dimensions of the ground strap &lt;strong&gt;and the gap width are the primary factors affecting the spark onset, flame initiation and kernel growth&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I'm understanding this correctly, combustion efficiency is adversely affected by quenching at the early stages of flame development.  The two main ways to reduce quenching are by reducing the mass of metal around the flame kernel, or widening the gap ( which I guess also effectively reduces the amount of metal in contact with the flame kernel ).  Even though they only give a hard number, 2.4%, in relation to the former, I get the impression you can imply similar results for the later, although it would be nice to have a directly measure hard number for that also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T09:36:10.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27407" CreationDate="2016-03-20T11:42:23.587" Score="6" ViewCount="4164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering replacing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/posts/comments/43630?noredirect=1&quot;&gt;the coil pack on my 98 mazda 626 GF 2L&lt;/a&gt;, and am looking at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-03-Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-Mazda-New-Ignition-Coil-/191774246306?fits=Year%3A1998%7CMake%3AMazda%7CModel%3A626&amp;amp;hash=item2ca6a2c5a2:g:u5YAAOSwmmxW34Gv&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;standard replacement at about $15&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-Pack-for-Ford-Mazda-Lincoln-Mercury-Pickup-Truck-F150-Van-SUV-Car-/130944655897?fits=Year%3A1998%7CMake%3AMazda%7CModel%3A626&amp;amp;hash=item1e7ce8e219:g:qFgAAOSw%7EgRVzabZ&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;standard replacement with 10 year warranty for about $21&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/VMS-RACING-HIGH-OUTPUT-IGNITION-DIS-COIL-PACK-FORD-MUSTANG-ESCORT-CONTOUR-F150-/361458937508?fits=Year%3A1998%7CMake%3AMazda%7CModel%3A626&amp;amp;hash=item5428a1aea4:g:i4YAAOSwk1JWhB-7&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a &amp;quot;high output&amp;quot; VMS for about $50&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first two it's not that big a difference in price, but I'm wondering if there are concrete, measurable benefits to the &amp;quot;high output&amp;quot; coil pack?  It claims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will directly connect to the factory connectors and deliver 15%-20% more spark energy for improved power and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased spark energy and voltage, help improve the combustion process of the fuel mixture to create an efficient burn. The result are quicker starts, improved idle, improved throttle response, cleaner plugs, cleaner emissions plus increased high rpm performance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPECIFICATIONS:&#xA;• Turns Ratio 85:1&#xA;• Primary Resistance 0.55 ohms&#xA;• Secondary Resistance 13.5K ohms&#xA;• Inductance 4.0 mH&#xA;• Spark duration (mS) 1100 uS&#xA;• Peak Current 140 mA&#xA;• Maximum Voltage 40,000 Volts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read annecdotal evidence that such claims are true, but is there a measurable scientific basis to such claims, i.e. hard evidence, not just anecdotal claims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T19:14:51.143" Title="Are There any Benefits to a High Voltage Coil Pack?" Tags="|ignition|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T12:24:32.817" Score="4" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Hyundai Elantra 1.6 GLS and I'm having problems with the central locking. When I lock the car the passengers front door does not lock properly and it only locks half way but does not pull all the way in.&#xA;I have lubricated all the linkages and it seems free and loose but I don't know what else to to do now. Is there something else I can look at to correct this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15846" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:10:58.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:10:58.357" Title="Passanger door central locking not working properly" Tags="|hyundai|locks|door|elantra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27386" CreationDate="2016-03-20T12:46:16.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is compression of air working against you&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the course of two crank revolutions for your Camry you have 4 cylinders compressing air and fuel.  When you see the engine get to a point of rotation and it rotates backward a bit after releasing the starter, that's air acting as a spring and resisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take your sparkplugs out of the engine it will allow the engine to turn over without working against your efforts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is normal behavior, nothing's wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T12:46:16.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27256" CreationDate="2016-03-20T13:33:43.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect one of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your main fuse is blown.&lt;/strong&gt;  This would disable your entire electrical system and prevent the bike from lighting up or starting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your ignition switch has failed.&lt;/strong&gt;  If your ignition switch where you turn your key has failed your electrical system will be dark.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a multimeter you can unplug your ignition switch from the wiring harness.  At the connector for the ignition switch you can check for continuity at the plug.  Check between your power and ground, if you have infinite resistance on your multimeter then the contacts for providing the power could be bad and an ignition switch replacement is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pull your main fuse and inspect visually as well as test it for continuity when it's out of the bike.  I have seen fuses that look fine and fail this test before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a multimeter usage and howto link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25816/multimeter-basic-functionality-and-howto&quot;&gt;Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T13:33:43.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27405" CreationDate="2016-03-20T14:48:25.523" Score="4" ViewCount="1311" Body="&lt;p&gt;How standardized are motorcycle parts? Is every manufacturer doing their own thing or could you take parts such as a crankshaft from a Honda machine and use them in a Yamaha machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there manufacturers who care for this issue and try to use as many generic parts as possible in their machines so that you can use parts across models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15147" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T02:10:13.080" Title="Interchangeability of motorcycle parts" Tags="|motorcycle|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T16:30:56.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee started beeping and telling me to check the battery. So I had the car tested and it said the voltage regulator was bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage regulator on these Jeeps are in the PCM, so I had to bypass it with another external voltage regulator rather than replacing the $200 PCM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I have replaced the regulator, and gotten a new battery, the voltage gauge is going all over the place. But when tested, the battery is being charged by the alternator at a perfect amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now overnight the battery is being drained somewhere and dying. I don't know if it could be the new external voltage regulator or a shortage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15850" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:11:30.327" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T23:20:12.977" Title="External regulator just installed and now there is a battery drain that kills my car" Tags="|electrical|battery|jeep|grand-cherokee|gauges|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27398" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:45:21.967" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T18:45:21.967" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T18:45:21.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27399" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:45:21.967" Score="0" Body="The Ford Expedition is a full-size SUV built by Ford. Introduced in 1996 for the 1997 model year as a replacement to the Bronco, it was previously slotted above the smaller Explorer. It is Ford's largest and last truck-based, off-road and tow-capable SUV. The Expedition is based on the Ford F-150 pickup and shares various components." OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:10:41.043" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:10:41.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27400" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:46:51.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T18:46:51.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T18:46:51.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27401" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:46:51.357" Score="0" Body="The Audi TT is a small two-door sports car marketed by Volkswagen Group subsidiary Audi since 1998, assembled by the Audi subsidiary Audi Hungaria Motor Kft. in Győr, Hungary, using body shells manufactured and painted at Audi's Ingolstadt plant. This changed with the third generation model that uses parts made entirely by the Hungarian factory." OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T19:11:34.670" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:11:34.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27402" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:48:35.107" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T18:48:35.107" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T18:48:35.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27403" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T18:48:35.107" Score="0" Body="This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer functioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage." OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T10:13:13.077" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T10:13:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27406" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:22:33.607" Score="21" ViewCount="3108" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, when looking at building a custom exhaust system I've heard the reference called &lt;strong&gt;pie cut exhaust&lt;/strong&gt; but I was unable to find any definition or terminology so I was curious to know what does it mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T12:32:34.227" Title="What does pie cut exhaust mean?" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27394" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:38:40.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorcycle parts aren't very standardized across manufacturers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think going so far as to make crankshafts interchangeable isn't a sign that a manufacturer cares about standardization though.  A crankshaft is a central component of an engine and can drive rider feel, power delivery and performance of the vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some manufacturers that are very good about standardizing internally though.  Suzuki has been a great example.  Rectifiers, various switches, front ends, controls and even some engine components can be very interchangeable across models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers and are not as thoughtful though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross Brand Standardization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple answer, it doesn't exist.  Other than brake mounts, calipers, sprockets, chains and headlights there really isn't much of this.  I don't see this as an indictment though.  From my perspective the car industry is about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:38:40.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27404" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:46:17.993" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a term used to describe the shapes of the pieces of tubing used to create exhaust pieces with very hard turns. Imagine an apple pie. Now cut it in 8 individual pieces (triangles). You can now make complex shapes by arranging the pieces in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, you can see how each weld marks off each piece of tubing. If you pay attention to the shape of the piece, you can see that it resembles a piece of pie. Thus the term pie cut exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done when bending the tubing is not an option for whatever reason. Sometimes its done because it just looks bitchin'. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Owvqz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Owvqz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pie cut exhaust&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:46:17.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27388" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:56:45.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go with the standard replacement (the warranty choice is left up to you). High output coils are used in modified engines that have higher combustion chamber pressures from either higher compression, boost, or a combination of both. Save your money, unless you plan to turbocharge the 626...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:56:45.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27810" CreationDate="2016-03-20T20:17:34.290" Score="12" ViewCount="24437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just read a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701130839&quot;&gt;really nice write-up on sway bar physics&lt;/a&gt;. I also watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGZRairqHNI&quot;&gt;a video discussing suspension behavior on rough roads&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A front-wheel drive vehicle being driven around a corner at a speed which, on a dry, smooth, level road, would be just about the maximum speed it could take before beginning to understeer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For simplicity, any sway bar changes would be done to the front and rear in such a way that the TLLTD would not be affected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shocks, struts, springs would not be changed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By &quot;rough&quot; roads I mean typical non-perfect driving conditions that you may encounter on a daily basis: Think patches, seams, and potholes on highways, think ripple, ruts, and depressions (e.g. typical road wear near stop signs, on roads frequented by trucks, etc.) on urban roads, post-construction patches, stripped roads being prepped for resurfacing, raised manholes, drain depressions, that kind of thing. It's a wide definition, but I don't mean off-road or post-apocalyptic conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, &lt;strong&gt;how would a stiffer set of sway bars affect vehicle handling on rough, uneven pavement&lt;/strong&gt;? Every discussion of suspension theory and physics I see usually seems to assume good road conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, consider the scenario above, cornering left at speed, then in the turn I hit a fairly large, say 2-3cm deep pot hole with the front left wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my limited understanding the effect of a sway bar that was too stiff would be one of the following, either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left strut would expand into the pothole, exerting downward force on the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Via the sway bar, some of this would also be transferred to the right side, exerting an upward force on the right side of the body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On exiting the pothole, then, something... complicated would happen that I can't figure out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left strut would &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to expand into the pothole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left side expansion would be limited via the swaybar by the downward force present on the right side due to the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left wheel would then take longer to regain contact with the ground, causing the right wheel to experience more lateral force (that was no longer being absorbed by the left wheel), and the car would more readily understeer. And maybe some other complicated thing would happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track with one of those assessments? What would the effect be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as a (perhaps too broad) corollary question: What impact should rough road conditions have when deciding on an ideal sway bar configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:12:31.997" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T23:56:33.290" Title="Effects of sway bar stiffness on rough, uneven roads" Tags="|suspension|handling|swaybar|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27396" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:28:22.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly the issue would probably have to do with the last change made to the system.  I'm sure this doesn't escape you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to test for parasitic drain if you want to nail the issue down.  If you are unfamiliar with using a multimeter, here is a general howto on it's use and various functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25816/multimeter-basic-functionality-and-howto&quot;&gt;Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an QA on tracking down parasitic draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4197/how-to-track-down-an-intermittent-battery-drain&quot;&gt;How to track down an intermittent battery drain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trick I used to use decades ago is mentioned in the article above.  Use a flashlight bulb in between your battery and ground cable.  If it lights up, you have some draw.  A multimeter is much more precise though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This certainly doesn't completely answer your question but I hope it assists you troubleshooting your issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T02:13:32.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27412" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:33:45.443" Score="4" ViewCount="2067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking into building a frame for a hotrod I've seen different sizes used for different size vehicles such as 2&quot; x 2&quot; or 2&quot; x 3&quot; box tubing and circular steel tubing but I am unsure if a .188 wall is the norm.  When building a frame is there a standard wall to use or is a .188 wall enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T21:41:50.740" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T22:01:54.983" Title="Is there a suggested wall thickness for steel tubing when building frames?" Tags="|frame|hotrod|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:48:02.237" Score="3" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title asks when building wheel tubs for a hot rod what sheet metal thickness should you use to build your wheel tubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T23:20:10.797" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T23:20:10.797" Title="How thick should sheet metal be for steel wheel tubs?" Tags="|wheels|hotrod|metal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27410" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:01:54.983" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If building for a street vehicle, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/frame-wall-thickness-63261.html#post459027&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, they say that for 2x3, 2x4, and 2x5, 0.120&quot; wall rectangular tubing is more than adequate for car frames. If you have to go a bit thicker to find what you want, even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are building for competition use, you'll have to look up what their regulations state. Every sanctioning body will have their own rules which must be met to run in their races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T22:01:54.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T22:15:19.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25560" CreationDate="2016-03-20T23:55:21.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot. You can't even do it that well with GPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only relevant OBD2 parameters are speed and RPMs. If the wheels are locked or traction is otherwise lost, neither of these can be used in the calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pedal position is also not a standard PID so you won't always even have a reference point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming you want to log data from within the vehicle then calculate stopping distance later. You need one of the following sets of information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either a complete &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; speed profile, from which you can observe the braking point and full stop point then integrate to estimate distance, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your location at the point where you applied the brake and your location at the point where you stopped,  from which the distance measurement is straightforward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these are available to you via OBD2. With other systems you'll still run into a variety of problems, including but not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed Profile:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only commonly available device that can really measure this is GPS. With GPS you'll have the following problems:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refresh interval will compromise accuracy, both by making the brake / stop point hard to pinpoint, and by introducing inaccuracies in the distance integral.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As of 2014, GPS was accurate to within 4.6m (15 feet), 95% of the time (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nstb.tc.faa.gov/reports/PAN86_0714.pdf#page=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). This will translate to inaccuracies in speed measurement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake and stop locations:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, you'd have to go with GPS here, and you would run into the following difficulties:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying the brake point. Subject to same inaccuracies as above, and hurt by the fact that OBD2 doesn't have to have a brake pedal PID, and synchronization between that and a GPS device would be difficult anyways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying the stop point. GPS accuracy issue as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, in the comments you mentioned an example of capturing GPS data once per second. That's still not good enough. Let's say you are travelling at 30 MPH. Your brake point could be anywhere in that 1 second interval. 30 MPH = 44 ft/sec so you're already introducing +/- 22 feet there. Combine with GPS horizontal accuracy of +/- 15 feet and you've got a 95% chance of getting +/- 37 feet, and a 5% chance of getting worse. Combine it with GPS accuracy for the stop point too, and your final distance measurement is somewhere around +/- 52 feet. That's not nearly good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a less simple solution, which would work in theory but in practice may be subject to all sorts of inaccuracies, is to use your OBD2 device to track your wheel speed in combination with an accelerometer aligned with the road axis (we'll assume your car doesn't spin when you brake):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the accelerometer, observe where braking deceleration (should be pretty sharp, as opposed to deceleration from just letting off the gas) begins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the OBD2 info, make note of your vehicle speed at that point (which you assume to be accurate as you have full traction). This is the speed when you started braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using your speed where you start braking as your initial speed, integrate the accelerometer readings to estimate a speed profile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Integrate the speed profile to estimate a stopping distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main difficulty there being synchronizing OBD2 speed readings with your accelerometer. That won't be trivial although if you can get &lt;em&gt;close&lt;/em&gt; you can at least calculate a lower and upper bound for stop distance (like, if you knew you were somewhere between 29 and 31 mph when you began braking). The other difficulty is there is plenty of opportunity to introduce errors, which will amplify with each integral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you were technically and electronically inclined, and have that DIY spirit, you could rig up something else, e.g. a computer that monitors stopping distance by processing video from a dash cam combined with an accelerometer or something on your brake pedal to identify stopping point. Or some sort of laser/image based actual speed sensor on the bottom of your car. But, you know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this, though, is a ton of trouble. By far the easiest and most reliable way to measure your stopping distance is to drive a constant speed, pick a landmark on the road and hit the brakes there. Then, when you stop, get out and measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T00:00:22.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T00:00:22.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27142" CreationDate="2016-03-20T23:57:17.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need to compress your pistons in the wheel cylinder to make room&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compress your piston back into the clylinder (labeled below as the wheel cylinder) it will make room for the new brake shoes.  When you get new brake shoes they have more material on them than the old shoes which have been worn out and are thinner than when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will then also use the adjuster wedge to decrease the OD (outside diameter) of the shoes so they will fit back into the drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a normal part of the brake job and nothing is wrong with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzyXP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzyXP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Image from photobucket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T23:57:17.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27221" CreationDate="2016-03-21T00:43:38.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You could have a head gasket leak into your cylinders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have that issue you would not see any coolant leaking from the motor.  It would be going into your combustion chamber where the air and fuel are ignited thereby driving your piston down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would troubleshoot this with a leakdown tester or a compression tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leakdown Tester Instructions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26384/what-is-a-leak-down-tester-and-what-can-i-do-with-it&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a similar post that illustrates blown head gasket troubleshooting.  The difference in your case, if you have a blown head gasket would be that you are leaking coolant into your combustion chamber instead of into your oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26363/how-do-i-troubleshoot-the-source-of-oil-in-my-coolant/26552#26552&quot;&gt;How do I troubleshoot the source of oil in my coolant?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;howto perform a compression test.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no coolant leak and you are losing coolant there is a good chance that it's leaking into your combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T00:43:38.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26910" CreationDate="2016-03-21T01:08:31.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After thinking on this one I remembered when I had a Mazda 323 that would just die if I ran it at 60 mph or higher for about 30 minutes.  It was a module in the distributor that was going out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went and bought a new radiator fan with a controller and I thought that it resolved the issue, which was a fan controller that was going bad, but was still showing it was within specs with my limited testing tools. It helped some, but it wasn't the total solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I neglected to change out both radiator fans and the second fan was the intermittant issue.  When the car started to overheat, I pulled over and actually saw the second fan start slowing down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the high mileage and things in pairs seem to go out together on cars, at least in my experience, I should have replaced both fans at the same time.  The new second fan totally fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other item I wanted to add, the quality of thermostats seems to be much less to me over the last 5 years.  I replaced 3 on two different cars from two different local auto parts store chains.  I ended up getting a Stant brand and I've not had problems since.  The Stant brand was the same price as the Murray and Duralast thermostats I had been using that didn't last more than a year at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T19:19:42.890" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T19:19:42.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27423" CreationDate="2016-03-21T06:13:39.123" Score="11" ViewCount="7179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always hold my clutch when braking suddenly in traffic or to move in traffic. I heard that its bad driving. I tried to stop holding clutch and I am unsuccessful in it. How bad is this for motorcycle?. Any tip on not to hold clutch when braking?. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9841" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T16:18:57.117" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:18:57.117" Title="Holding clutch when braking" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2016-03-21T07:03:40.070" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;why using your clutch during braking can be considered unsafe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden motorcycles for years.  Engine braking is a component of safe riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine itself can be ok and not receive any damage from pulling in the clutch while breaking other than it is additional wear on throw out bearing for the pressure plate within the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The throwout bearing is number 6 in the image below.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/179Uo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/179Uo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although pulling in your clutch may not harm your engine it can lead to instability when breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under braking the rotational mass of the engine has a gyroscopic effect and assists in keeping the motorcycle upright.  Pulling in the clutch takes away from the gyroscopic effect and may make the motorcycle feel unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than pulling in the clutch you can downshift immediately while using the front brake and allow the engine to slow the rear wheel and provide additional gyroscopic effect for more stability under panic stops.  The resistance of the road on the rear wheel will assist in providing stability as well and an indication if the rear wheel has lifted off the ground from over braking on the front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to lock up your rear wheel by using your rear brake AND pull in your clutch thereby reducing the gyroscopic effect of one wheel and the motor the bike could become very unstable.  You would only have the gyroscopic effect of the front wheel and it's a very strange feeling as you travel at a high rate of speed yet feel like tipping over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine braking under normal braking helps to provide stability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T07:03:40.070" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27429" CreationDate="2016-03-21T08:26:59.300" Score="4" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but why don't automobiles have some sort of immediate braking mechanism?  Even one that plows into the ground to stop the car faster than if you just slammed on the brakes.&#xA;If we were worried about abuse, it could be one time use before some costly replacement, so it would only be used in emergencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15860" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:36:54.707" Title="Immediate braking mechanism?" Tags="|brakes|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26013" CreationDate="2016-03-21T08:44:34.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that I have a Professional radio with MOST interface. To adapt an USB interface, you have to buy an adapter which also has MOST. Such an adapter is e.g. the Dension Gateway 500, see this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dension.com/de/compatible-products/GW51MO2,DBU3GEN,GW52MO1,GW52MO2,GW53MO1,GW53MO2,DBG1GEN,GW51MBE?startlng=&amp;amp;make=BMW&amp;amp;type=3%20Series%20E90/E91/E92/E93&amp;amp;year=2005-2011&amp;amp;hu=NON%20iDrive%2C%20Professional&amp;amp;img=bmw_professional_non_idrive.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dension E90 Professional (without Navi) pre-facelift&lt;/a&gt;. These devices are much more expensive as the adapters without MOST interface (&gt;300 €)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13372" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:44:34.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27430" CreationDate="2016-03-21T08:59:29.120" Score="3" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;An automotive ignition system &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ch/patents/US5577471&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;needs to provide a specific amount of energy&lt;/a&gt; to properly ignite the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/a/159544/111847&quot;&gt;Energy = voltage * amperage * duration&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific energy must be produced &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q16/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;to overcome the quenching effects&lt;/a&gt; present in the environment of the combustion chamber and produce a viable flame kernel which will develop into a flame front that advances at a sufficient speed to provide efficient and timely combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 2000 edition of &quot;Auto Fundamentals&quot;, chapter 8, Ignition Systems, page 122 it notes that in older ignition systems a resistor is used to lower the input voltage &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;to around 9.5 volts during normal engine operation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further on it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At high speeds, when a hotter spark is needed, the coil receives full battery voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then notes that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The majority of modern electronic ignition systems use full battery voltage at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all brings up a number of questions.  When the book talks about needing a &lt;code&gt;hotter spark&lt;/code&gt; at high speeds, it could be talking about either a spark with higher voltage, higher amperage or longer duration.  It's my understanding that the duration of the spark is usually fixed at about 1/1000th of a second, so they must be talking about either voltage or amperage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know the voltage needed to jump the gap can in general vary depending on both the amount of compression and the composition of the A/F mixture with both leaner mixtures and higher compression requiring more voltage, all this based on the application of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paschen&amp;#39;s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paschen's law&lt;/a&gt; to determine the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breakdown_voltage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;breakdown voltage&lt;/a&gt;.  However, compression is pretty much a fixed value, and under &lt;strong&gt;normal operation&lt;/strong&gt;, even at high speeds, the A/F ratio doesn't vary that much ( excluding wide open throttle or heavy load which are very rich and would require less voltage if I understand correctly ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when they talk about requiring a &lt;code&gt;hotter spark&lt;/code&gt;, I can only think that they mean a more energetic spark with higher amperage, which brings me to my question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the ignition system in a modern vehicle built in the last 20 years control the output wattage of the spark ( voltage * amperage ) and what might effect the wattage negatively other than the ignition coil, wires and plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example ignition system diagram from &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.co.il/books?id=29UFCAAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PA95&amp;amp;ots=jJumy6g9Bo&amp;amp;dq=glow%20discharge%20ignition%20watt&amp;amp;pg=PA93#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=glow%20discharge%20ignition%20watt&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this book on Fuel Efficiency&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm9ge.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm9ge.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:46:40.233" Title="How does the ignition system control the Energy of the spark?" Tags="|electrical|ignition|alternator|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:03:16.417" Score="5" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can somebody explain why my winter set of wheel/tires gets better mileage in almost summer temperatures? At 14-17C+, my winter tires give me 29 avg on a test route, while summer gives a ~24 avg. I expect quite opposite numbers at this temperature. What could be the reason? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Passat with 2 sets of wheels/tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summer 18 inch with Hankook Ventus v12. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winter 16 inch with Michelin Xice3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight difference is #1 20.1kg vs #2 20.0kg. Circumference difference with current thread wear is within 1 inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7407" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T15:26:53.527" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:46:52.203" Title="Why winter tires gives better mileage at 15+C" Tags="|tires|mileage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27427" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:31:23.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume for that same reason as eco tyres.  As winter tyres typically only start giving decent grip at temperatures below 7 degrees Celsius, the lack of grip at the temperatures you are using them is effectively reducing rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you are also subconsciously aware that you'd take longer to stop and have less grip in the bends so have adjusted your driving style to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T10:31:23.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27424" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:36:18.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer - because that would be a very bad thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chenmunka says, look at Newton's Laws of Motion. Or, if you don't believe them, look at videos of crash-testing - you'll see what happens to the occupants of a car in a very rapid deceleration - it isn't nice... The car stops, quite quickly, but you don't, until you hit a solid thing (like the dashboard or steering wheel) - this is why we have airbags. Then your internal organs keep going until they smash into the inside of your ribcage, which also is a bad thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T10:36:18.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2016-03-21T11:08:19.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most electronic ignition systems are INDUCTIVE on cars modern vehicles. The energy available for the spark is stored in the magnetic field of the coil. This energy is released when the coil current is broken.  The old mechanical breaker points have been replaced with a solid state switch.  The energy is proportional to current squared before saturation.  So up to a point, more current means more spark energy. This primary coil current takes time to build up. The build up is exponential limiting out due to the finite DC resistance of the primary coil. So up to a point more time means more primary current which means more spark energy. Dwell time can control spark energy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a capacitive discharge ignition or CDI system the spark energy is stored in a capacitor instead of the coil.  Energy stored in a capacitor is proportional to voltage squared.  The voltage that the cap is charged to before being dumped can be and is varied to change spark energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1970s bad reliability and crossfire and poor lean mixture performance are the main reasons that you don't see CDI on cars. Its great for firing oily plugs so its popular on 2 Strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:46:40.233" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:46:40.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27088" CreationDate="2016-03-21T11:26:05.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Problem got reproduced in front of the mechanic after keeping the car for around 24 hrs, They checked the Alternator and Battery Voltage , Both were absolutely fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then they checked &lt;strong&gt;Throttle Body&lt;/strong&gt; , there was &lt;strong&gt;Carbon&lt;/strong&gt; in it ...so they cleaned the carbon and I got my car back . I haven't faced the problem from that day. I hope I won't face the problem in future&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13782" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:26:05.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T12:29:07.753" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am unable to find that which is most common brakes used as braking system in USA, as i am studying the braking system of vehicles in USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15863" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:29:07.753" Title="which is more popular brake, disc brake or drum brakes in passenger cars in US? can anybody give a rough idea about percentage" Tags="|brakes|braking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-21T15:30:41.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25560" CreationDate="2016-03-21T12:53:28.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not something you can calculate because there are so many factors which not one affect the calculation but will be different every time.  These include;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre condition (i.e. flat spots, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambient air temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road surface temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road surface condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road surface moisture level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Residual temperature in braking system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camber of road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Load in car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distribution of load in car (front to rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distribution of load in car (side to side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle of incline in road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height above sea level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condition of brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Condition of braking hydraulic rubber components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature of brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a very small selection of the amount of things that will determine how long it will take to stop.  The effects of brake fade and brake glazing are probably your biggest determining factor and a data logger won't know anything about how your brakes are &quot;feeling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T12:53:28.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27442" CreationDate="2016-03-21T14:12:01.540" Score="4" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to change the brake fluid in my 2000 Toyota Camry and when I tried to unscrew the bleeder nipple on a front caliper it broke in half rather than unscrewed. So, I need to replace the caliper since I don't want to deal with drilling out the old one in some way that doesn't leave shavings someplace they will do damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the specifics I'm looking for are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What hardware if any should be replaced every time the brake line comes off the caliper? I know there's a brass washer for the banjo bolt, but what is the criteria for replacing it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm going to do pads on both sides of the front since they're getting close anyway. Am I correct that there is no need to replace the other caliper as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I treat the threads on the bleeder nipple with anti-seize or is this just asking for trouble from the anti-seize contaminating the brake fluid?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What generally is the torque spec for the bleeder nipples? The Chilton / Haynes books are mute on the subject.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the bleeder nipple came apart, I had my son press the brakes as far as they would go, and they are firm, and I watched the bleeder and no fluid escaped. Am I correct to conclude that this is safe to drive until I can get the caliper on there?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T09:34:52.947" Title="Specifics about changing a brake caliper on 2000 Toyota Camry" Tags="|toyota|brakes|camry|brake-fluid|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2016-03-21T14:17:10.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holding the clutch while braking can make the rear wheel more likely to lock-up. Also you lose the additional engine braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15866" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T14:17:10.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27440" CreationDate="2016-03-21T14:37:20.007" Score="3" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a Michelin Pilot Super Sport R18 225/40R18 88Y and 245/35R18 92Y for my Mercedes-Benz W208, but this tyres marked on the website as &quot;Designed for BMW&quot;. What does it mean? What are pros and cons of using this tyres on a non BMW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I need exactly this tyres to get a good fit with R18 AMG Monoblock Aero II (8J ET31 front and 9J ET35 rear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15868" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:07:51.130" Title="Can I use &quot;Designed for BMW&quot; Michelin tyres with a non BMW?" Tags="|tires|bmw|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T15:59:35.307" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2009 Saturn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago I took it for a basic oil change at the dealership and requested that it be checked out for any other problems but I have noticed that sometimes at a stop light it will try to stall on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it doesn't do it all the time and sometimes I get a smell but no engine light comes on indicating that there is a problem. Wondering if it might be a sensor, but then wouldn't have the dealership mention this to me when I took it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15871" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T23:09:14.303" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:09:14.303" Title="Vehicle tries to stall when at a stop" Tags="|engine|stall|smell|saturn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27438" CreationDate="2016-03-21T16:07:51.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use them? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you use them? Depends on what you are looking for. Most of the times (not always) these special tires are just a modified version of a regular tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes them special? Here is a list of common modifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A softer compound. This typically increases grip at the expense of longevity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A special size. Sometimes car manufacturers require a tire in a very specific size. This is common for more expensive cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A higher speed rating. This means that the tire will be rated for higher top speeds. Usually carries a list of modifications mostly known to the manufacturer themselves. These are special tires sold under the same brand for marketing purposes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special decoration. Yes, we are that vain. People sometimes just want a tire that elevates their status through branding. Ever wonder why Pirelli PZeros on Ferraris have that unique logo with pink/rose coloring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the tires you mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Michelin Pilot Super Sport R18 225/40R18 88Y and 245/35R18 92Y&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are performance tires with a very low profile. You might want to look at similar tires and compare based purely on specifications (and price). Take into consideration the type of driving that you will be doing. Don't buy performance tires for a car you plan to daily drive in various conditions. Its a recipe for disaster (learn from my mistakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:07:51.130" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27439" CreationDate="2016-03-21T16:12:43.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something along this line would be a diagnostic service fee.  When you take a vehicle in for regular maintenance and ask them to see if they notice anything they do not hook up any computers to pull codes and it's typically a visual check.  Depending on the tech and if they use a lift some will check suspension but if it's a drive through oil drain area they will only look at fluid levels and if any leaks are present.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call the dealer and ask how much would it cost for a diagnostic fee. If the price isn't high or you don't want to deal with it they may be able to figure it out.  One issue, any time some says an issue is &quot;intermittent&quot; I would charge a minimum two-three hours depending on the vehicle.  That is because the dealer will have to re-produce the exact issue you're experiencing to properly determine what is going on.  Before doing that you should ask yourself if you've gone through your basic maintenance, such as cleaned throttle body, fuel filter which I recall is on the firewall.  If this issue is occurring after you filled a tank of gas your gas could be bad or have water.  If this issue occurs after you've filled up several times there is no telling but try to look at what conditions you're in such as AC RPM levels noises etc. etc.  The more descriptive you can be the better you can get the issue corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:12:43.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27436" CreationDate="2016-03-21T16:16:32.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What hardware if any should be replaced every time the brake line comes off the caliper? I know there's a brass washer for the banjo bolt, but what is the criteria for replacing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New/re-furbished calipers should include new washers. Always replace them when changing a caliper or line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm going to do pads on both sides of the front since they're getting close anyway. Am I correct that there is no need to replace the other caliper as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do not need to replace the other caliper. You should inspect and clean it as much as possible (a toothbrush works well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I treat the threads on the bleeder nipple with anti-seize or is this just asking for trouble from the anti-seize contaminating the brake fluid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to because you only tighten these very lightly. You just tighten them until they are snug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What generally is the torque spec for the bleeder nipples? The Chilton / Haynes books are mute on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just enough. Trial and error works here. As a general rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw it in with your fingers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wrench and go until you feel a bit of resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it a light nudge without moving more than a couple of millimeters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pump the brakes. If they don't leak, then you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the bleeder nipple came apart, I had my son press the brakes as far as they would go, and they are firm, and I watched the bleeder and no fluid escaped. Am I correct to conclude that this is safe to drive until I can get the caliper on there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only safe if you are absolutely sure it is not leaking fluid or letting air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T09:34:52.947" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T09:34:52.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26120" CreationDate="2016-03-21T16:37:13.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As requested by @ducatiKiller,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I though the issue was with a loose wire or faulty connection in the fuse relay box (turns out there's no cpu or fuse board of any sort in there) it's just metal plates stacked ontop of eachother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After much poking and prodding(and contact cleaner), it turned out that the case that held the two sides of the fuse box together had become slightly disfigured(i have a habit of hitting speed bumps at 30+mph), after much electrical tape and super glue the box is now fully closed and secured to the car again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;overall it cost £300+ for several diagnostics and many cans of contact cleaner when just inspecting the box and closing it properly would of fixed the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might also be worth mentioning that when the relays where struggling to make contact it was causing the car to misfire and throw all sorts of unspecific fault codes so that might be something for anyone else to check if they have similar issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:37:13.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27355" CreationDate="2016-03-21T17:27:32.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an alignment problem to me. As you stated in the comments, the bent front control arm threw your camber angle off by 3°, which will reduce your tires contact patch, thus decreasing grip making it easier to slide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving with extreme camber angle on rough roads will put undue stress on the suspension components, which may have caused your toe angle (controlled by tie rods) to be effected as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive toe angle would explain why the steering wheel is 3-4° off. It would also explain why the car seems to dart or jump when you go over bumps, as at that moment the axle is unloaded (decreasing grip), and the tire that happens to have more grip is facing a few degrees off of the direction of travel, causing the car to jump in that direction until the axle is loaded again, and the weight of the car overcomes the side load the tire is still experiencing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excessive toe angle would also make it easier to lose grip when stopping and starting at low speeds, as the tires are (again) experiencing load in two directions, significantly decreasing the maximum load it can handle in any one direction. It only happens at low speeds because the momentum of the vehicle has not yet cause enough forward grip to overcome the side loading of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T17:44:47.447" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T17:44:47.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:16:09.053" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have an all-wheel drive Subaru. A few months ago we had one tire blow on a set that was around a year old. We were told (by the tire store) we had to replace all of them. That sounded nuts but I researched it a little and it appears to be true. $870 for 4 high-performance tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, around 4 months later, we have blown another tire. The (same) tire store is telling us it's okay to replace just one tire because of the age of the tires. They are under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds reasonable, but I just want to make sure this isn't a case of the tire company getting out of replacing all of the tires. Are there any guidelines for tread wear where it's not safe to replace a single tire on an all-wheel drive vehicle? In this case we were told there was 11/32 tread depth which I guess is like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4511" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T18:44:55.130" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T18:44:55.130" Title="All-wheel drive single tire placement" Tags="|tires|subaru|replace|awd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-21T18:43:48.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:39:03.953" Score="2" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some protectant formulations are known to damage tire rubber and cause sidewall cracking (which can be very dangerous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of tire protectants are recommended to prevent sidewall cracking?  Bonus if it gives the tires a nice shine too! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T18:39:03.953" Title="Which types of protectants are safe to use on automotive tires?" Tags="|tires|cleaning|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T19:22:02.100" Score="4" ViewCount="20634" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's user manual recommends using 1150ml of &quot;Bajaj 10000&quot; 20W40 1.2 litre engine oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say it results in pathetic performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am thinking of switching to Motul 5100 15W40 ; and this comes in a 1 litre pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this 150ml going to make any difference?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;15W and 20W oils don't alter the performance, do they?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperatures in my place rarely go below 19 degrees celsius&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15740" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T23:04:26.043" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T16:49:15.363" Title="Engine oil refill volume in Bajaj Pulsar 220" Tags="|motorcycle|oil-change|bajaj|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27448" CreationDate="2016-03-21T19:45:43.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I run the manufacturer spec oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because they designed the engine, I didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The performance increase with a thinner oil is negligible. The oil level is associated with the height of the oil pickup in the crankcase so unless you are ok with possibly encountering a situation where your oil pump sucks air once in awhile I would stay with the appropriate quantity of oil no matter what. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12688/how-to-understand-different-engine-oils?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to understand different engine oils?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You want performance?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for performance increases that are meaningful I would consider the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jet Kit&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Free Flow Air Filter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Free Flow Exhaust&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Piggy Back ECU&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that you are looking at engine work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links that might be beneficial for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16727/carburettor-jetting-on-installation-of-aftermarket-air-filter/16728#16728&quot;&gt;Carburettor jetting on installation of aftermarket air filter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17531/do-i-need-to-reprogram-ecu-when-adding-custom-air-filter&quot;&gt;Do I need to reprogram ECU when adding custom Air filter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27100/is-it-possible-to-fit-mashroomhead-air-filter-in-honda-stunner-cbf-125/27101#27101&quot;&gt;Is it possible to fit mashroomhead air filter in Honda Stunner CBF 125?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2857/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-installing-an-filter-on-a-bike/26326#26326&quot;&gt;What are the pros and cons of installing a high-performance air filter on a bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6131/straight-pipes-and-carb-rejetting/25577#25577&quot;&gt;straight pipes and carb rejetting?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all of those links apply to your motorcycle but it should help you with gaining some foundation information on where you might want to go regarding gaining additional performance and some of the challenges you may encounter on your path to MOAR Horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T21:34:49.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T21:00:14.227" Score="3" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1987 GMC Sierra and it has an ECU, I took it to a workshop to see if I've any issues, when they tried to connect a diagnostic reader to the connector (underneath the steering wheel) they couldn't. So they told me to replace the connector as its bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone knows the part number for this connector?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followed comment link and was able to pull an error code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error Code 44&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15878" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T07:56:25.413" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T07:56:25.413" Title="1987 GMC Sierra - Can't connect to OBD diagnostic connector" Tags="|gmc|diagnostics|obd-i|sierra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T21:17:30.013" Score="3" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Buick Century. This car has automatic headlights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Automatic Headlights turn on all lights front and rear and headlamps starting at twilight or on a dark cloudy day and definitely at night.&#xA;When the automatic headlights come on, as I start my car, my right blinker stays solid, and won't flicker if I push my turn signal to the right. It just stays stuck either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem has gotten worse, now when I use the left turn signal, my car loses power. the dashboard lights all the way up then the whole car dies.&#xA;These problems both only occur when it is dark out so it has to be linked to the automatic headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how to fix or determine what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my battery with a new one last week my last battery was &quot;bad&quot; according to autozone although I just got in in November. Something must be killing/vamping my battery and I feel like it is linked to the problems I am having. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I replaced my combination flasher relay thinking it would unstick my blinker, I parked in my garage and once my car detected the lack of light, the right blinker became stuck and I hit my left turn signal and my car died so nothing was solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T23:04:55.437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T00:47:44.867" Title="2003 Buick Century dies when left turn signal is used in the dark/ right blinker stuck" Tags="|buick|turn-signal|century|dashboard|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27453" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:37:35.153" Score="6" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2003 Opel Agila, I rolled forward about 2m with the clutch in while still in reverse gear, and my transmission made a whining sort of noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch was fully in at this point so I have not turned the engine backwards or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I damaged anything by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:53:51.890" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T06:46:13.843" Title="Does rolling forwards while in reverse gear damage my car?" Tags="|clutch|opel|damage|manual-transmission|agila|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27452" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:44:48.103" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not. There's no issue here. The engine/transmission were not coupled. There was no stress on the transmission. It just was running backwards from what it usually would. Really, it's no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T22:44:48.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27451" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:17:01.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to look for a battery drain as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B__DqK90IIc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video by Scotty Kilmer&lt;/a&gt;. If you find any drain in the battery you can fix it and this may solve to whole problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;In the video Scotty uses a test light (that you can buy in AutoZone for about $10) or a 1 Ohm resistor rated at 10 Watts and a voltmeter (In case you have one lying around, otherwise those cost around $20 or more) to check if there is any current passing through the battery when the car is turned off. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and connect it to one end of the test light or the resistor and the other end to the battery. If you are using the resistor, also connect the voltmeter probes in parallel with the resistor. If the test light turns on or the voltmeter is measuring anything above 1 Volt so you probably have a drain.  In this is happening you can proceed to the next part of the diagnosis. Remove one fuse at a time from the fuse box and check if the test light turns off or if the voltmeter shows less than 1 Volt then place it back. If removing one of the fuses can reduce the voltmeter reading significantly, you can check only the system that is protected by this fuse, thus you can find the source of the drain more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T01:44:54.517" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T01:44:54.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T00:15:09.307" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the brakes line brake cylinder brakes caliber and the car still boggs down. what do you think is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15880" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T01:53:33.790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T01:53:33.790" Title="I have a 2006 Ford Explorer that seems to bog down" Tags="|ford|brakes|explorer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-07-26T14:40:45.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27458" CreationDate="2016-03-22T02:28:53.697" Score="2" ViewCount="2801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Honda CRV with a driver's side low beam that does not work, but yet the daytime running and high beam does work.  The passenger side is fine.  I checked the low beam, driver's side, fuse underneath the steering column and it does not seem to be the problem.  Not sure if the filament for DRL/high beam is one and low beam another.  Any suggestions or does it just simply need a new bulb?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15882" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T04:15:14.187" Title="low beam does not work, daytime running and high beam do" Tags="|honda|headlight|crv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27457" CreationDate="2016-03-22T03:52:15.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles not using an LED headlight have multiple filaments in the bulb. These frequently do burn out independently. Low beam is also the most used filament, and likely to burn out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given no fuses are blown or wires loose, it's most likely just a bad bulb.&#xA;Bulbs are generally pretty cheap, a few dollars, so it's worth just replacing it just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blown fuse would more likely take out both headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastEditorUserId="10387" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T04:15:14.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T04:15:14.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:00:11.373" Score="2" ViewCount="5833" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortly after buying my 04 VW Golf, the engine check light came on indicating a fault in the NOx sensor. The engine error code is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;17478 - NOx Sensor (G295) Heater Control &#xA;&#xA;        P1070 - 001 - Short to Plus - MIL ON&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor is actually pretty expensive to replace, around £400. I'm wondering if it's actually necessary to fix immediately. The engine check light came on not long after I bought the car, so I'm guessing I bought it faulty. But since I haven't drove the car pre-fault, I have no idea if it had an effect on the power of the car, or fuel consumption, and whether or not it's an urgency to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice/suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15887" LastEditorUserId="15887" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T12:16:20.300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T14:04:42.687" Title="VW Golf (04, MK5) NOx sensor issue" Tags="|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27459" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:39:44.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor operates at a very high internal temperature (circa 400 degrees C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be either three or four (there were four on my 1997 Golf) wires going into the sensor.  One set of wires are for the actual reading and the other are for the built in heating circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Golf, when I had this exact same code, one of the wires from the heater circuit had frayed and snapped.  I simply re-attached it and all was well.  No needed to change any of the expensive sensors.  The only downside is that access to the wiring harness was poor so a relatively simple job became quite fiddly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I had to fix ours was that the emissions test was high.  After it was fixed, throttle response and fuel consumption both improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T12:39:44.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T12:46:51.087" Score="5" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota owner Jeep.  Had a blown head gasket, most likely cause it got over heated.  I removed the head and had machine shop do a valve job and had the head re-surfaced, put together, set the valves to the spec's called for, no problem till I started the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It made some load clacking noise, so turned it off.  I checked the rockers. I found a bent push rod in number 4 cylinder.  I took the head off again, back to the machine shop and they found a broken valve guide and also put in a new exhaust valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back home, another new gasket set, set the valve adjustments again. All is ok till I started the engine again, then, clack noise was back again, turned it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time it was the push rod in # 3 cylinder bent.  So I have to wait till the 5th of april to get it tore down again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its going to be another broken valve guide and will also need a new exhaust valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could could be the problem?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid to do this again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15884" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T22:52:10.013" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T03:21:49.313" Title="engine push rods" Tags="|engine|toyota|valve-guide|push-rod|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25508" CreationDate="2016-03-22T13:52:03.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rundown on the basic self-cancelling mechanism can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Depending on how modern your car is, the mechanisms will have been engineered with materials that are malleable enough to withstand any treatment the mechanism will encounter in normal service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, it seems this problem has been all but eliminated in modern commercial vehicles. After a little searching around, the most recent cars I could find running into this problem were late 90's to early 00's American vehicles (GM Suburban &amp;amp; Cobalt, Chrysler Grand Caravan/Town&amp;amp;Country, Ford Focus), mid-90's Honda Civics and Alfa 156s, and some late 80's BMWs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T13:52:03.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27464" CreationDate="2016-03-22T15:27:40.157" Score="11" ViewCount="14117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about removing the resonator from my exhaust but I watched a video saying that it will negatively impact the car as naturally aspirated cars need back pressure as it helps get rid of the gasses faster, is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also do mufflers provide back pressure and do sporty mufflers provide less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:43:36.640" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T18:43:36.640" Title="Do naturally aspirated engines need back pressure in the exhaust pipes?" Tags="|engine-theory|exhaust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27463" CreationDate="2016-03-22T16:31:44.127" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Pressure drop is to flow as voltage drop is to current&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all else equal, removing the resonator or muffler will reduce the restrictions in the exhaust pipe. This means that the ability of the exhaust headers to flow gases will increase, not decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this does not necessarily mean that the engine will produce more power, since that is the result of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25172/675&quot;&gt;several subsystems working together&lt;/a&gt;. So if the exhaust is bottlenecking performance, reducing exhaust restriction will improve performance until the point that something else becomes the weakest link. If something else (like air intake) is already the weakest link, a better-flowing exhaust system will have little impact on power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicles that employ &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24564/675&quot;&gt;wideband lambda sensors are sensitive to backpressure&lt;/a&gt;; they can tolerate deviations up to a point, but beyond that the engine may run too rich or too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T20:40:12.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27463" CreationDate="2016-03-22T20:51:07.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While zaid's answer is correct for the OP's 4 stroke engine, the exhaust design for a 2 stroke engine can be more complicated.  Rather than benefitting from a free flowing exhaust, exhausts for 2 strokes are often tuned to create wave fronts that suck exhaust fumes from the cylinder and at the same time stop unburnt fuel being sucked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small 2 stroke motorcycles exhausts are good examples of these, where there is a large expansion area, but then a very small exhaust port at the end.  While the design may appear to be very restrictive, they are in fact tuned to make the engine more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the Wikipedia page - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_chamber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T20:51:07.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27470" CreationDate="2016-03-22T20:56:44.557" Score="10" ViewCount="81302" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I wasn't really sure where to ask this, but since it is about my car I decided this might be the best place.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my Vauxhall Corsa just under a year now, and there have been no official updates for the Intellilink system as was hinted by the salesman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since found out that the Intellilink system runs on Windows CE, which was a pleasant surprise to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any images of Windows CE with the software installed so I can have a tinker with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15894" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T21:48:21.463" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T12:57:35.003" Title="Is there a way to upgrade the GM Intellilink System?" Tags="|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27451" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:00:23.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem sounds more like a bad connection somewhere.  When the lights are turned on, the current drawn by the lights is causing a drop in voltage across a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be the connections to the battery, because you will have been experiencing problems starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start in the fuse box by checking the voltages on the fuses to see if any of them have less than 12v on them when the lights are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try disconnecting the headlight bulbs to help confirm this is the cause. If the problem still persists with the bulbs disconnected, then maybe it is not a bad power connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I would be checking the voltage supply to each of the electronic control modules, especially the body control module and the engine control module while the bulbs are lit.  If the voltage is low to the modules, this would confirm a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T08:23:47.480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T08:23:47.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27468" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:46:04.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can replace the firmware by entering developer mode and then going to the explorer mode in the developer options menu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I have also mirrored the file on my MEGA in case it disappears or is deleted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corsaeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=1691&amp;amp;start=20&quot;&gt;From this forum thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First off, I accept no responsibility if you brick your head unit you&#xA;  are going too need to modify files stored on it to enable Mirrorlink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ok so the file should for all uk cars, even the russian one is&#xA;  incredibly similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recommend you use a stylus for this, (I used a pen with the lid on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Download ClientAppInfo.bin from here&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mega.nz/#!Rs0QiBAD!NWVV3Xy5RJwSomJkwW-ZgIMoWUlzcZZpT2lOjocm4ww&quot;&gt;https://mega.nz/#!Rs0QiBAD!NWVV3Xy5RJwSomJkwW-ZgIMoWUlzcZZpT2lOjocm4ww&lt;/a&gt; This is the one&#xA;  I have modified from my Corsa LE so should work with yours no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check the fil, here &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinemd5.com/&quot;&gt;http://onlinemd5.com/&lt;/a&gt;, the sha and md5 should&#xA;  match &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SHA1 77720003DFD1E9476D8EA84FD892675A198500F2 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MD5 0410F2CA7F0A959E3E39DF604416D5B6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Put it on a pen drive formatted to fat32, most likely what it is&#xA;  already formatted too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Go to your car turn it on and wait for intellilink to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Enable developer mode, &#xA;  -Tap repeatedly in the top left corner unit a window appears asking you to enter a code. &#xA;  -Enter 20110827 and press ok, nothing will happen that you can immediately see but you have turned it on in the settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5) Go to explorer mode&#xA;  - From the main menu go to settings, on page 3 you should have developer menu, if not repeat step 4.&#xA;  - In the developer menu scroll to Explorer Mode, press it and it will launch Windows CE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) Copy the files&#xA;  - Plug in the usb drive&#xA;  - From the desktop press on my device in the top left it looks like a yellow palm pilot &#xA;  - Go into the MD folder, this is your pendrive&#xA;  - Press on the file so it is highlighted, in the toolbar at the top click edit and then copy (you'll understand why I say use a stylus it's small) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6.5) Change folder options&#xA;  - In the toolbar press View and select options&#xA;  - Untick all the options shown and press ok&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7) Replace the original file&#xA;  - At the middle of the toolbar on the top is a yellow folder press it and you should return to the my device screen with all the folders&#xA;  - Navigate to /Storage Card/System&#xA;  - In the top toolbar press Edit and then Paste, It will ask do you want to override the file, press yes.&#xA;  - Wait for it to copy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8) Restart Car&#xA;  - Remove the pen drive&#xA;  - Turn off your car and wait for the handbrake light to turn off, this can take around 30 seconds be patient&#xA;  - Turn it back on and in the apps you should see Mirrorlink&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'll take some pictures soon to show you, but in the meantime watch the&#xA;  video , yes its in russian but the windows CE stuff is all in english&#xA;  so it should give you a good idea of what to do. In the video he also&#xA;  replaces the file in storage card 2, I didn't have the same folder&#xA;  there so just skipped that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0qp2cRK4KQ&amp;amp;list=WL&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0qp2cRK4KQ&amp;amp;list=WL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:46:04.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27472" CreationDate="2016-03-22T23:03:36.110" Score="3" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am driving my Brother's 2002 4.0L gas ford ranger truck 5 speed manual transmission. What RPM should I shift at for best fuel economy. Also what RPM should I not let the truck go below while driving to prevent possible damage. Assuming that I am not carrying or pulling anything with the truck, everything is stock, and flat ground. I am concerned about the oil pump not having enough psi to lube parts correctly when being used, or other things that cause damage that I am unaware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. I am really looking for what should be done and not what people do. So please do not respond to me on what RPM you shift at as reason. Looking for explanations, I would also like rule of thumb based on motor size and fuel type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15897" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T00:09:55.563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T02:03:50.167" Title="No Damage/ top fuel economy rpm shift point" Tags="|ford|shifting|rpm|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27471" CreationDate="2016-03-23T00:19:12.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @racefever states, this is &lt;em&gt;really subjective&lt;/em&gt; and hard to answer. I will try to do my best though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of this is going to be done by feel. Every vehicle, even those of the same make/model, will have a different RPM at which it will get the best gas mileage. What I can tell you about when to shift, though, is keep it in the highest gear without &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/9388/4152&quot;&gt;lugging the engine&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;This will keep the engine at its lowest RPM for whatever speed you are at&lt;/strong&gt;. Drive the engine up to a given RPM and shift. Depending on the vehicle, this could be anywhere from 2500-4500rpm ... it's just something you are going to have to get used to. After a short period of time, you'll get muscle memory as to where to shift and you won't even notice you are doing it ... it will just come natural. Unless you are taking the engine to the redline, you aren't going to cause the engine any damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as oil pressure goes, remember that an engine will run just fine at idle. You will not drive at idle, therefore you should never have to worry about oil pressure as long as the engine is mechanically sound and there is enough oil in the sump. If anything happens where the low oil pressure light comes on, then you need to worry about it. Even engines with an oil pressure gauge will have an idiot light which comes on if the oil pressure is too low. As long as your brother has kept good maintenance on the truck, this really is nothing to even start worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T02:03:50.167" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T00:20:51.670" Score="4" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a great 2002 Mustang automatic 6cyl in great condition, but I am a worrier and want some outside opinions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am the second owner of the vehicle. Have owned it for 1year, 7 months and I get my fluids checked regularly, tire pressure, oil change and top offs done every 3-5k, closer to the 5k mark because I don't do that much driving. New tires were purchased by the previous owner shortly before the sale and I have the paperwork, can't remember the date. I replaced the alternator when first purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My work commute is 26 miles roundtrip, 70-75pmh and around town driving. So far I've had no problems. What should I definitely have a look at before deciding to drive it halfway across the country?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15899" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T20:22:31.983" Title="Will my 2002 Mustang make it from California to Iowa?" Tags="|engine|ford|tires|transmission|coolant|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27473" CreationDate="2016-03-23T00:32:20.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to a mechanic and have him/her do a bumper to bumper check. The mechanic will let you know if there is anything urgent. You can then choose to risk it or fix it. Good luck on your trip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T00:32:20.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27477" CreationDate="2016-03-23T02:07:45.640" Score="5" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower corner of radiator sprung a leak, was curious if self repairs were possible or recommended though my research would indicate it needs to be replaced. If I replace the radiator my self, since it was shortly driven with the radiator liked that and it smoked up twice or so, should I get it inspected for other damage after replacing the radiator? &#xA;Pics of the leak&#xA;it's a 92 subaru legacy&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gyazo.com/62522640e4b700afbdb62f0f8412412e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://gyazo.com/62522640e4b700afbdb62f0f8412412e&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gyazo.com/70bc74e624143d494e3c9ee327f6eb95&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://gyazo.com/70bc74e624143d494e3c9ee327f6eb95&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15765" LastEditorUserId="15765" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T04:47:35.667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:32:00.700" Title="Radiator leak 92 subaru, repairs possible or replace?" Tags="|radiator|leak|replace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T02:33:21.433" Score="0" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 new tyres of size 155/70 R13 75H and 1 tyre of 155/70 R13 75S. Does it make any difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15901" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T19:04:38.417" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T19:23:17.470" Title="Is 155/70 R13 75H suitable for Hyundai Santro?" Tags="|tires|hyundai|santro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27475" CreationDate="2016-03-23T03:54:03.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radiators are pretty simple to replace. If you've never done it before, look at some youtube videos, and set aside about 4 hours for it (90 minutes, if you're handy with a spanner). Repairs on radiators are rarely successful - it's often a plastic sidewall that goes on Subarus. Sticking various concoctions in the radiator (or a raw egg) just causes extra - and more expensive - issues, because the heater matrix gets clogged up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you have done further damage? Unlikely. Contrary to popular belief, a Subaru H4 engine can take a lot of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When refilling the radiator, it's recommended that you use the Subaru Coolant Conditioner. Get it from a local Subaru dealer for about $3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T03:54:03.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27366" CreationDate="2016-03-23T04:01:13.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark testers are used (on cars) to indicate presence of a spark only; there's no other diagnostics you can do at that point. As long as the gap is set correctly (err on the tight side if you have to - it will expand/erode over time), and you have a spark, you're good to go. If the car still won't start, it's something else; fuel and/or air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small engines such as Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton might have a preference for color, but they're a different beast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T04:01:13.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18069" CreationDate="2016-03-23T07:21:57.560" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it may need to replaced if it has cracks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15903" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T07:21:57.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27473" CreationDate="2016-03-23T08:20:10.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your normal journeys get the car up to temperature and you have trusted it so far, then a long journey should make no difference, in fact cruising speeds should be easier on the car than constant stopping and starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you currently don't loose any fluids and there are are no strange noises, then I wouldn't worry.  But if you really need confirmation, then you need someone who knows what they are looking at to check it over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a good idea to change the oil etc just before a long journey, just in case something accidentally does not get tightened up properly and it works loose on your journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After saying all this, don't hold me responsible if you have problems :)&#xA;Have a good journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T08:20:10.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27476" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:23:16.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The letter determines the max payload of the tyre (Amount of max load at specified max speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is recommended that you do not mix tyres with different payloads. Even if you do, it should be done in pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;God forbid, but during accident claims some insurance companies might create a mayhem if manufacture recommended tyres are not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find this helpful: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tyrepower.com.au/tyres/tyre-tips/tyre-loadspeed-rating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tyrepower.com.au/tyres/tyre-tips/tyre-loadspeed-rating/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15740" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T09:23:16.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27487" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:36:21.183" Score="6" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfLyh43iihM&quot;&gt;video on voltage drop&lt;/a&gt;, it makes me feel like testing the resistance of various sensors and accessories with my multi-meter isn't really a reliable test of anything, since I can see correct resistance numbers with the system off, yet under load there can still be a problem with high resistance.  For example, I could see OK numbers testing the primary and secondary coils on my coil pack, yet there could still be a voltage drop due to excess resistance under load.  Same thing with testing the resistance of the plug wires.  I'm exactly in this situation now. I strongly suspect a problem with the coil pack is causing some hesitation and rough idle problems, yet the resistance on the primary and secondary coils show up fine. I suspect this because swapping the standard plugs with fine tip, low voltage ngk g-power plugs caused about an 80% improvement in the problem but didn't make it go away completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:10:38.547" Title="How Common are Voltage Drop Problems?" Tags="|electrical|ignition|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T09:54:50.927" Score="3" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Toyota corolla automatic transmission that have a difficulty in starting when the car has parked for a period of over 4 hours or when kinda cold, the car starter motor cranks well. After several attempts of cranking the car eventully picks up starting at a lower pace and rising after some few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15906" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T20:58:04.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T03:26:59.997" Title="1998 toyota corolla automatic cranks but no start" Tags="|toyota|starting|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27491" CreationDate="2016-03-23T10:36:55.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is still starting flawlessly but some accessories like the radio or the clock don't always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that pushing the key deeper in the ignition would make the radio start, but releasing it will make it stop most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a look at the ignition switch (see pictures bellow) and found out that the electrical switch (the black thing on the left) is loose by more than one millimeter. Sure enough, when I keep it in position, everything is working as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMshL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMshL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ignition switch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7s6dq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7s6dq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ignition switch closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to unplug the electrical connector, but I couldn't find how to remove or re-attach the black part to the main part of the ignition switch (see the third picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT5vl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qT5vl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ignition switch without the plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to disassemble the black part from the ignition switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to reassemble it in place (since it works when I push it in place, if I can just replace it correctly it should work without need to replace it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15683" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T14:02:19.230" Title="Change electrical switch of the ignition switch on a Deawoo Cielo (1995)" Tags="|electrical|ignition-switch|daewoo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27081" CreationDate="2016-03-23T11:41:12.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slave cylinder retainer was slightly bent, allowing the clutch pin to rattle on the fork, some noise was gear rattle, as well as a guibo bolt that was not tightened properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle issue turned out to be a 3cm hole in the intake elbow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still looking into other possible issues, but thats what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6877" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T11:41:12.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27482" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:10:38.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voltage drop problems are very common in multi component, multi interface systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance the starter motor has a cable that runs from the battery to the starter. The cable has ring terminals on the ends and those terminals are bolted to the appropriate component. High resistance at any of the aforementioned connection points is a recipe for voltage drop. Also the very large gauge multi stranded wire can be prone issues as well. Something specific to mention is that the test only checks the supply and return lines of the device and not the device itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside an ignition coil a solid core wire is used to create the windings. The chances of damaging the thin solid core wire in the coil to create a voltage drop is tremendously small. The common failure mode for coils is a fracture of the wire which will cause the resistance to spike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to check the primary side if you so wish. Apply power to the coil and measure it's current consumption. Compare the current consumption of the two coils. Checking the secondaries for anything besides resistance or conductance to the secondaries would be fruitless because they are meant to operate at a high voltage. Trying to check then at operating conditions would be extremely difficult if not outright dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar problem happens with spark plug wires. They are prone to fractures of the conductor. When that fracture happens the resistance shoots up tremendously. There is no good way to check them besides just resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:10:38.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27366" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:26:00.927" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a system that has been available for years that allows you to see the colour of the spark inside the combustion chamber.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?code=G4074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Colortune&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is specifically intended to assist in tuning the engine and, yes, it does help cure tuning problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used one for years but they were &lt;em&gt;de rigeur&lt;/em&gt; in the days before engine management systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T13:59:45.670" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:59:45.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27448" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:30:29.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a lot of Bajaj Pulsars. In my experience i would suggest not to use company specified engine oil. You can switch to motul similar spec fully synthetic engine oil which is way too expensive than Bajaj oils. Buy 2 Oil packs and fill 1.150 Ltr and save the rest for refills. Check oil level once every 1000 Kms and refill as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2647" LastEditorUserId="15740" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T19:04:47.357" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T19:04:47.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:09:33.773" Score="3" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 2007 dodge ram 1500 standard,  when im parked and I accelerate my truck doesnt go over 2500 rpm , reach the 2500 and starts acting like its cutting the gas , but on the freeway I can accelerate ok , I can put it on neutral and accelerate and the rpm can go all the way up , im wonder its that normal or no&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15908" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:36:37.120" Title="dodge ram 1500 RPM's problems" Tags="|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27484" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:53:04.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the front of the aluminium body of the ignition switch, it looks like there is a small screw that will need removing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photo of an ignition switch for your car on amazon - &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B013XF3P1E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Daewoo-Cielo-Part/dp/B013XF3P1E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there will also be a similar screw on the back of the body that will also need removing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant guarantee that this is the correct part for yours, but it looks like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, that if you open it up and clean the contacts your problem will go.  If not, I would replace the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T15:58:27.660" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T15:58:27.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27473" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:05:21.653" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any car in good operating condition should be able to make the trip.  My advice would be to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Fix any known problems with the car.  This includes making sure the spare tire is in good shape and fully inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If your car consumes oil between changes, bring along a spare quart or two.  A long road trip can cause an apparent increase in consumption as the oil will be hotter (and thinner) than usual for longer than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Plan ahead for if a breakdown should occur.  One of the most likely causes of a breakdown is a flat tire due to running over debris in the road.  Or a cracked windshield, or any number of other things that just happen regardless of the condition of the car.  Simply having a charged cell phone and someone to call (even if it's AAA) can be enough of a plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on a long trip, you can usually expect to end up in one exceptionally long traffic jam.  For me, this happens right about the time I've just finished a cup of coffee and can't wait to get to the next rest area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T16:05:21.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27473" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:45:41.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the others.  Every time you stop to gas up or take a break, take a look around the car, check the fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring a decent set of tools in case something happens - sockets, breaker bar, screwdrivers, duct tape, zip ties, WD-40, flash light.  Make sure your jack and spare are good and functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T16:45:41.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27475" CreationDate="2016-03-23T16:47:57.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend replacement, but a possible fix is JB Weld or similar.  Hard to say how long it will hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T16:47:57.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27476" CreationDate="2016-03-23T17:32:52.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically you should be driving for the lowest rating of your tires, your S one is the lowest rating of the ones you have on (S=180kmh H=210kmh). Think about when you put up the spare tire because you have a flat, that one is the one telling you how to drive (obviously a spare is a spare and you are not supposed to keep it on the car forever). Rather than the suitability of the H tires for your car you should pay attention to the safety issue that is mixing tire rated speeds. While one could say to just adapt to the lowest rated speed, the fact is that tires made for different speeds are engineered in different ways, so now you have a tire that does not react to your driving in the same way the other three do and that can be cause of poor handling. That could be minor but there's always the risk that it will catch up on you at the worst moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T19:23:17.470" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T19:23:17.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:10:38.983" Score="2" ViewCount="24585" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key the engine would not start. I wired power to the starter via a cable from the battery and it worked so the starter is ok. When I turn the key no power is going to the starter solenoid, any advice would be appreciated.&#xA;p.s. we already checked starter relay fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15912" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T19:59:52.403" Title="2003 honda accord not starting, starter and battery ok" Tags="|honda|ignition|accord|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:39:51.547" Score="3" ViewCount="10760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Dodge Durango the third light work but the brake lights do not work what can it be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15913" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T11:33:42.523" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T06:29:36.943" Title="2002 Dodge Durango brake lights not working" Tags="|dodge|brake-light|durango|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27496" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:52:50.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely ignition switch.  Check relays and wiring also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T18:52:50.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:01:24.757" Score="11" ViewCount="5370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just curious how much of a pressure drop is usually normal across a fuel filter on a typical consumer passenger car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T20:49:29.253" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T22:27:10.497" Title="How Much Pressure Drop across the fuel filter is normal / acceptable?" Tags="|fuel-filter|fuel-pressure|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18133" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:12:20.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm yaa its wright it increases the volume when we press the break pidle harder and if disk are new some times the disk pads where soo hard metal.it sounds like keeskees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7836" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:12:20.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27448" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:21:46.843" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not a problem. Of course you can change the engine oil.&#xA;But Shell oil is much better than Motul and Castrol. For better performance use this grade oil 20w50 grade oil .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7836" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T09:34:59.383" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T09:34:59.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:36:58.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and found it was a twisted line.  Untwisted it and runs properly again.  Definately do new pads and rotors since the other posts on here are correct.  With the high heat and undue wear you definately don't want to have the whole thing fail after getting it fixed and if the tire is already off might as well just do it all at the same time, just make sure the hose didn't get ruptured or torn in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15918" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T11:23:31.270" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T11:23:31.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27497" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:43:11.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is just the brake lights that are not working, the the following could be faulty -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake switch on the brake pedal - check that it is being actuated by the pedal properly.  You cold also bypass the the switch by connecting the two terminals together and see if the lights then work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuse could be blow - find the fuse and check its condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulbs could have all blown.  It is possible that you never noticed when one was individually blown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:43:11.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27483" CreationDate="2016-03-23T21:02:58.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you may have a leaking injector. If so, it would be flooding the engine after a period of time, causing the hard start and the slow resumption of running well when it does start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check my theory is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail over the same period of time. Check the pressure after attached, then again in the several hours after when you'd normally see the issue. If it has dropped significantly or all the way to zero, there's a problem in this arena. To further diagnose, you'd then pull up the fuel rail with the injectors attached. Turn the ignition to on (do not start), and check to see if any of the injectors are leaking. You'd want to do this into some sort of container so as to not cause a fuel spill and potential fire hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does turn out to be a fuel injector, there are some great videos on YouTube which can show you how to clean them, or take them to a shop and have them do it (at a much greater expense). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if the fuel pressure stays up to where it started (as it should), this is not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T21:02:58.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-23T22:29:18.673" Score="3" ViewCount="2657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 honda Pilot. Ok look carefully it has 510,453 miles on it. It wont start. I had a bad alternator for 2 weeks over charging my battery. I changed it. New spark plugs also. So 2 days ago i started it up drove 2 blocks and all yhe lights came on the then it broke down. I re started it and again it broke down. Now it does nothing but crank like it wants to start but dont. So i took it to a mechanic and they said it seems like the timing. And with the miles on it, it would be useless to pay that much for that repair. Do yall have any other reason why or a solution i have? Please help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15921" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T22:51:02.543" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T22:58:38.470" Title="2004 Honda Pilot wont start" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|pilot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27496" CreationDate="2016-03-23T23:49:10.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pull the starter relay located behind the left kick panel #18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXGH1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXGH1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0YAl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0YAl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 30 and 85 are ignition voltage when the key is in the start position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 86 is ground from either the transmission range switch or clutch interlock switch. Depending on standard or automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 87 runs to the starter solenoid S terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pins 30 and 85 don't have ignition voltage in the start position. Gain access to the ignition switch connector and backprobe for power on the pin 3 (white) and pin 1 (black/white).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have power at pin 3 but not pin 1, you need a new ignition switch. If don't have power at either pin go into the under hood fuse box and check fuses 23 (50A) and fuse 22 (100A). If the fuses are OK you need to do a continuity test from the underhood fuse box to the ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ground on pin 86, (Automatic) gain access to the transmission range switch and check pin 4 (light green or blue) for ground. If you don't have ground on pin 4, check pin 10 (red/white) for ground. If you don't have ground on pin 10 check ground splice G101 for fit. On the 2.4 it's located under the plastic trim on top of the engine. On the 3.0 It's located around the throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While testing on an automatic try shifting through the drive positions to see if it's not registering that the car is in park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still don't see ground at pin 4 replace the range switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the standard transmission check the clutch interlock switch located on the clutch pedal. It'll be a two wire switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything else checks OK try applying power to pin 87. Does it crank? If so the wiring to the starter is OK and you can replace the relay. If it doesn't crank you need to do a continuity test from the start solenoid S terminal to pin 87 of the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T23:59:42.720" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T23:59:42.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T02:02:04.637" Score="11" ViewCount="2296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of restoring an older car (a 1988 BMW M5, in particular) after it sat in a driveway in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seattle#Climate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pacific Northwest&lt;/a&gt; for ten years, waiting on an engine rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My paint restoration process more or less started with rubbing compound. After getting the initial fog off, we noticed these dots underneath it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R77A1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R77A1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't the end of the world, but they're quite visible when light is shining on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They show up in clusters over the roof, and most clusters cover just a few square inches, but they seem pretty evenly distributed across the whole roof. There are probably ten such clusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only checked the roof so far, but it's my assumption that they'll show up all over the body of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume they're caused by weather of one sort or another--it saw rain, sun, snow, you name it--but is there anything I can do to get them to go away? Or at least, anything to make them a bit smaller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd live with them sooner than I'd get it painted, since it still looks good and there are better uses for that money on the car, but I'd like to make it look its best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the idea that it could be rust, that was definitely my initial reaction as well. That said, I thought it was weird that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dots are very hard, and there's no bubbling or paint chipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no bare metal or rust visual anywhere on the car, except some pretty aggressive stuff in the trunk, but that's far from this, and does have paint chipping and all that classic stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The paint is in very good shape, with the exception of these markings. It's still the stock paint job, but it's all very smooth, with no damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all said, I know rust is tricky, so it's 100% possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iHmS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iHmS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBDdq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBDdq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9lnE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9lnE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5z4G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5z4G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFPs1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More pictures on imgur...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, following advice by a couple comments, I popped one of them open with my knife. It was brown inside, which seems very rust-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, I'm still not convinced! The pattern is so strange for rust, and the paint's in such good shape with this exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the idea of sap really compelling--the car has been sitting under a tree for the better part of its time outside, and these &quot;clusters&quot; could have easily been caused by dripping. It also explains why I can't find any such marks on the doors, and potentially why there's only one on the bonnet (over which tree coverage was less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the idea of it being clear-coat coming off, I'd believe that. Although the paint is in really awesome shape everywhere else (sorry to keep saying that--I really like this car), so it seems a bit curious that that would be a problem. Not to mention, it's not bubbling. I don't know if that's what clear-coat would do, but I'd assume so. I can't move the dots at all, and even pressing them with my knife felt like metal-on-(painted)-metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't ignore that what I found in that one was &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; rust. Whether that was a cause or effect, though, I'm still not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for what it's worth, on the matter of it being rust, it can be really difficult to tell, but as far as I can, from getting close and looking, I'd really swear that these are under the paint, not on top. I can't think of how anything could have gotten under, without coming up from below (there's no sign of that from inside, but one never knows).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listed above, but for those following along with edits, I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFPs1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uploaded more photos to an album on imgur.&lt;/a&gt; Please don't hesitate to request more if anything would help! I'm only limited by my own lack of creativity--happy to take as many as might potentially be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastEditorUserId="6381" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T04:15:23.863" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:24:10.803" Title="What are these dots on my roof?" Tags="|paint|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T02:09:16.653" Score="8" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just completed building a little hot rod with four wheel disc (kit-Chev) brakes. All new parts through-out. With rear wheels on stands off ground, pressing brake pedal does not stop wheels when in drive gear at idle. Pumping pedal does not slow wheels (posi-traction) to a stop. Have bled system multiple times, master cyl. full. I also have a adjustable prop. valve but don't know which way to adjust it..in or out. Have not done a run out for fear of not stopping and wrecking the car. HELP PLEASE. I'm a beginner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15922" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T11:07:13.810" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T15:50:15.247" Title="Disc brakes don't stop!" Tags="|brakes|hotrod|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27515" CreationDate="2016-03-24T03:11:32.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you have a brake pedal that does not go together the floor.  With rear wheels on stands the proportioning valve will think the car is in a hard stop situation and not allow the rear wheels to give full braking. Try supporting the same ear at the axle so the wheels are up under the car as they would be while on the he ground.  Then the proportioning valve will allow the rear wheels to get full pressure to stop the wheels. As for the adjustment on the pro portioning valve, when the wheels are in the normal position (supported at the axles), the rear wheels should apply brakes to the rear wheels to stop them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T03:11:32.313" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27497" CreationDate="2016-03-24T03:44:59.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;third&quot; brake light is working the switch is okay. The bulbs have been changed, and I assume with the correct bulbs. Has there been any work done recently? Has a trailer hitch been installed? Often times the trailer people sever the wire going to the brake lights with a &quot;scotch lock&quot; which cuts the wire in two, although not immediately. Also you need to check the ground to the sockets. If the lights are in the rear hatch, the wires between the hatch and the body of the vehicle may have been severed due to the opening and closing of the hatch. Look for the rubber tube the wires go through near the hinges and see if one of the wires inside are broken.  If so, repair the broken wire an that should fix the problem. Good luck, and I look forward to hearing the solution to your problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T03:44:59.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27521" CreationDate="2016-03-24T03:58:53.467" Score="7" ViewCount="1746" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your never-ending support!  The quick and precise answers and suggestions that you all provide is priceless in its worth.  After the timing belt change ( I skipped the water pump, it looked fine during a visual inspection) I drove my toyota camry (v6) up the road to the park to see if the overheating problem once again arises.  Sure enough, after about 10 minutes on the road, my needle starts climbing towards H again, so I pull over and pop the hood.  The first thing I saw was my coolant reservoir laying askew in my engine compartment, then I noticed coolant spewing out of the radiator cap. I disconnected one of the hoses to burp all the steam out, refilled the coolant and started to drive home.  Almost immediately my needle reached for the H, but since home was right down the hill I decided to risk it.  At the top of the hill there is a stop light, at which I was at red and idling, watching the needle touching the H now and going into the red zone.  I could hear a hissing sound from under the hood which sounded like the radiator cap again.  On green I crested the hill and started downwards and almost instantly my needle fell into the normal operating temp.  Once on level ground again and parking my car on my street, the needle again began ascending to the H...so my question is: &#xA;1. My thermostat has been removed, so ruling that out, what could cause this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Is my car cooling on declines because the angle moves the coolant towards my radiator?&#xA;3. Why so much pressure under the radiator cap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:23:47.000" Title="Why does my overheating car cool off on declines?" Tags="|cooling-system|overheating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27520" CreationDate="2016-03-24T04:31:26.187" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have developed an air bubble in the system, probably from the reservoir falling off, or from the mechanics not bleeding the cooling system after emptying it. There'll be a pocket of air in the system that's making the car overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the car lose power when it's overheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T04:31:26.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27528" CreationDate="2016-03-24T12:37:33.860" Score="10" ViewCount="83817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my tires (all four) replaced recently, and had an alignment done at the same time.  Soon after I noticed a slight &quot;warble&quot; coming from one of the rear wheels.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I was in the waiting room while the work was being performed so I'm fairly certain the car didn't fall off the lift or anything like that.  And the mechanic in question was not a new hire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe the tire was misbalanced or the alignment wasn't quite right, so I mentioned it when I next took the vehicle in to have the oil changed.  They're telling me the noise is from a bad bearing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... which I suppose is possible.  But it begs the question, why did the noise start after replacing the tire?  (Put another way, why didn't I hear any noise from the bad bearing before I had the tires replaced?)  And several co-workers have since shared similar experiences (at different shops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering: is it possible for a bearing to be damaged by routine work such as a tire/brake maintenance?  Or is it possible that before the tire replacement the old tire was somehow &quot;masking&quot; the problem (and how)?  Or is this just a coincidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle in question is a 2004 Honda Odyssey if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also note that the shop in question is one which I've used for a number of years.  The owner sold the business 1-2 years ago because he could no longer afford health care for his employees; the staff has mostly remained the same (other than normal turnover), but I don't trust the new management nearly as much as the former owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11226" LastEditorUserId="11226" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T13:23:31.070" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T02:36:58.427" Title="bearing noise soon after tire replacement?" Tags="|bearing|wheel-bearing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:00:56.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a difficult question to answer over the internet because none of us can physically be there to observe the symptoms you're describing. However though, cars are just like any other man made functional device used on a daily basis. You could go in for an oil change and your piston rod bearing could fail. Is this the lube shop's fault? There is no way to tell unless you're a skilled technician that can find scientific evidence. Your statements are anecdotal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you this from personal experience. I've seen guys handle tires rough and sometimes when new management gets involved shops hire people out of desperation and they aren't always skilled. I do know, that van had some wheel bearing issues and a few other problems with CV axles. I worked at Honda for quite some time and wheel bearings were a recurring issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your core question, I've never personally seen a wheel bearing damaged by routine maintenance. That's not to say something couldn't have happened while doing the repair. I've worked in a few places and have seen cars dropped off of lifts, catch on fire, and damaged because of poor workmanship. Don't assume they didn't do something wrong. The last thing a shop will do is own up to their mistakes if they think they can get away with it. Take it somewhere else, don't tell them what the other shop said and let them give you a conclusive answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tell them about your previous experience they may agree just to rope you into a job. That wheel bearing isn't cheap. If you made a video and asked an additional question with good audio, maybe some of could help you more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T13:00:56.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27185" CreationDate="2016-03-24T15:41:16.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cars battery is physically disconnected after the engine is started and it dies then it is definitely the alternator, its job is to provide electrical power to run the engine and recharge the battery. I'd get your down payment back because the tow yard is obviously duping you. Who knows what else they may try and snow you about. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15892" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:41:16.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2016-03-24T15:42:52.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this issue with cars fixed at my past shops. The old tires would mask the sound of the wheel bearing starting to go bad. New tires would suddenly make the sound stand out. Old tires can also affect the wheel bearing if their wear is uneven. They could put uneven pressure on the bearing as the tire rotates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the shop have done it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a slight slight slight chance that they might have warped the hub by over-torquing the wheel nuts. But this is very unlikely and lugs tend to break off before this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go ahead and replace the bearing and move on. This is a safety issue. Afterwards, ask around and find a mechanic you can trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:42:52.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26358" CreationDate="2016-03-24T15:51:10.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, you can adjust clutch pedal from under the dashboard enough to allow the clutch to disengage. In the few clutch problems I've worked on (granted none have been on American cars), the clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder by a fork, which is threaded on to the end of the master cylinder piston, allowing you to (after loosening the lock nut) spin the piston with your fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whpe0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whpe0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to turn the piston clockwise (which would be the same as turning the fork counterclockwise) it would effectively increase your pedal travel, which may give you enough clutch disengagement to get around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If adjusting the pedal does not work, bleeding as paulster2 recommended would be the best bet. It should also be noted that you may need to readjust the pedal to OEM specifications to bleed the system, as it may prevent the master cylinder piston from traveling a full stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:51:10.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:25:53.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might not be the tires so much as the alignment. If the bearing was worn but had &quot;gotten settled&quot; in a particular orientation, it might not have been noisy. Then you changed the alignment and started stressing it slightly differently, and now it's gotten loud. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:25:53.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:36:37.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is completely normal and is a safety feature. When the car is parked, the ECU will limit the rpm. It is so that the engine is not worn out unnecessarily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg4J28pbfvE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg4J28pbfvE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:36:37.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25831" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:44:02.157" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is most definitely electrical. I'd suggest take it to the nearest Tata authorized service centre and get it checked. It is not practical to diagnose electrical issue yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:44:02.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27520" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:48:59.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant temperature decreasing on the incline could well be because the engine generates much less heat going downhill, since it's not working as hard. This would give the cooling system a chance to bring the temperature down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:48:59.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27512" CreationDate="2016-03-24T17:04:49.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that's a lot of miles!  This doesn't sound much like a timing issue to me.  Typically when an engine just cranks and doesn't turn over it's either caused by problems with fuel delivery or ignition.  I would take it to another mechanic and let them take a look at it.  Chances are it's not too big of a repair.  Hopefully, it's only a fuel pump or ignition coil.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15934" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T17:04:49.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T19:02:53.660" Score="8" ViewCount="7761" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do electric motorcycles and cars use the same type of chargers? Can we charge a Zero motorcycle at a Tesla supercharger station? How about at an electric car parking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15948" OwnerDisplayName="nk379" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T21:05:15.257" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T23:20:59.630" Title="Can you charge an electric motorcycle at an electric car charging station?" Tags="|motorcycle|charging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27535" CreationDate="2016-03-24T19:54:58.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2015 and newer Zero Motorcycles have a &quot;Charge Tank&quot; option that allows you to use standard chargers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zeromotorcycles.com/charging/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zero Motorcycles Charging Options.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For fast charging on the go, Zero offers the Charge Tank accessory. It effectively triples on-board charging speed, typically allowing riders to recharge their power pack in as little as 2-3 hours. The Charge Tank works with the rapidly expanding network of Level 2 public and home charging stations using the popular J1772 standard. The Charge Tank is a dealer-installed option available on 2015 and later Zero S, Zero SR, Zero DS and Zero DSR models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://longtailpipe.com/2015/11/09/new-ev-charging-adapter-lets-j1772-car-owners-use-tesla-hpwc-charging-stations-cool-or-theft/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; that states Tesla Superchargers are meant only for Tesla cars and they have a proprietary connector.  However, you might be able to build or purchase an &quot;off brand&quot; adapter that will let you suck some juice from the Tesla pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Correction:&lt;/strong&gt;  The blog post linked above is talking about &quot;Tesla HPWC charging stations&quot; which are different from Superchargers.   The Zero supports the J1772 standard which is fast AC charging.  A Supercharger is a Tesla-only fast DC charger, so the two would never be compatible.  The Tesla HPWC is a fast AC charger which may or may not be able to be converted for J1772 standard usage (The video in the above blog could even be faked...  It's the internet...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T12:53:42.147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T12:53:42.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19437" CreationDate="2016-03-24T19:56:51.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The immobiliser can be disabled on 90% of vehicles by specialist auto electrical companies. The car will start and operate completely as normal just without the chip in the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a major problem with security as most thieves won't attempt to steal a car which they would assume has an immobiliser and there is still the door locks and the steering lock which is very hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this because I was previously in the same situation and used tgautomotives.co.uk based in the UK. The website lets them down but he explained everything to me and disabled my immobiliser with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Im not affiliated with the above company just a very happy customer who wants to help!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T21:18:06.780" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:18:06.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27424" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:30:49.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets ignore the aforementioned pitfalls of an emergency quick-stop system, and instead try to design one. (For realistic answer, see option 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front Mounted&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 1: Pneumatic Piston&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hollywood rollover/flip stunts are usually performed, in the absence of a ramp (though a deploy-able ramp that launches you over the obstacle isn't a bad idea..), by installing a large diameter pneumatic cylinder that fires a heavy steel piston (3-4&quot; Ø) at high speed directly into the ground, which serves to vault the vehicle into the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flipping the vehicle onto its roof in order to stop, while checking the 'one-time use' and 'expensive to repair' boxes, will probably not provide enough friction to stop the car faster than the tires would have, not to mention the air time involved, and reliability issues of takeoff/landing (see aviation.SE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, we would want to install such a devise so as to fire forward into the ground at a shallow angle. Too steep an angle and the rod could penetrate the road surface, leading to what track &amp;amp; field experts refer to as the 'pole vaulting' effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the surface area of the piston in order to spread the force along the road might solve that problem. It may also be a good idea to make the end of the piston deformable, to gradually slow the vehicle before the piston really digs in. This system would also require a high strength yet deformable cage so as to avoid damaging the chassis of the vehicle when it literally stops you on a dime (USD). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 2: Rocket Thrusters&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aviation style engine mounted on the front of the vehicle could effectively increase the wind resistance by providing reverse thrust to the vehicle. The only reverse-propulsion method that could react quick enough for an emergency stop would be a rocket thruster. These thrusters would be lighter than option 1, and would require less body modification to mount securely. Plus it'd look like you have some James Bond type s#it in your grill. Dope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortfalls of this system include the risk of flame grillin' whatever obstacle you didn't want to hit. The systems endless applications would best be utilized by food trucks, as it would allow them to turn what would have been roadkill into a locally sourced roadside barbecue dining experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top Mounted&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 3: The Claw&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ever had to manually thatch your lawn or rake wet leafs, you know exactly how difficult it is to pull a toothed comb over unforgiving ground; that is the basic concept behind The Claw™. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Claw™ is a spring loaded, articulating arm bolted to the (reinforced) roof of your vehicle. In an emergency stop situation, The Claw™ will deploy toward the rear of the vehicle (thus avoiding the 'pole vaulting' problems encountered in the prototype stages) with enough force to penetrate the tarmac. Upon penetration, the tips of the teeth will further dig themselves into the asphalt from the force of the spring loading, as they drag your car to a stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not hugely popular among road repair crews, state budget officials, or any poor sap who happens to travel that stretch of road in the next 10-12 weeks (thanks, government inertia!), you can rest assured that your family will be able to return home safely to recover from their severe neck trauma, together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear Mounted&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 4: Hydraulic Spoiler&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relatively modern &quot;hyper cars&quot; employ the use of hydraulically actuated rear spoilers. Take, for example, the Bugatti Veyron 16.4. In the event of a hard stop, the Bugatti's spoiler will pivot up to a 55° angle (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bugatti_Veyron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wiki source&lt;/a&gt;). Through aerodynamic loading, this action provides down force, allowing greater braking traction for the rear tires, while also creating massive aerodynamic drag such that at speeds over 120 mph, the spoiler alone provides as much braking force as a compact car (roughly .70 G). To maintain such performance, the Veyron has a separate radiator to dissipate the heat created due to the immense pressure on the hydraulic system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While average cars on public roads will (well... should) never (uhh.... rarely) see speeds that would benefit hugely from this type of spoiler, the technology has begun to trickle down into mere super car, and even sports car territory, and there is no question it has a positive effect on braking distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 5: Parachute&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Land speed record and drag racing vehicles have for years used parachutes to slow down after high speed passes. The basic concept, as seen in option 4, is to increase aerodynamic drag, but while the Bugatti is putting along at a mere 260 mph, top fuel drag cars are passing the 1/4 mile marker at 330 mph, and land speed cars are cruising through Nevada's Black Rock Desert at 760 mph. Saucy stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a small, short throw parachute would be terribly effective in preventing that fender bender on your commute home from work, the lack of sight lines for the car behind you might leave you worse off than had you accepted your fate. You might not have hit that car had you put your damn phone down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T21:36:54.707" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:36:54.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2016-03-24T20:45:21.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an internal divider between the clutch side and the brake side, even though that might not be visible from the front. You will have to keep adding fluid after it looks like it's at the MAX mark so fluid can &quot;waterfall&quot; in the clutch side.  If you fill too fast and go way past the max mark, suck out some of the excess fluid and dispose of it - there does need to be some empty space in the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the two chambers is so that a leak in the clutch system won't drain all the fluid out of the reservoir and lead to brake failure.  You can imagine how a small leak in the clutch would empty all the brake fluid if there was just one large chamber.  I think you can even see this division on your top picture.  Notice how the color is different to the right of the &quot;X&quot; in Max?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T20:45:21.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27497" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:15:38.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the high mount light works it's not the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;If the tail lights work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check in the wiring harness in the left rear quarter panel along the frame. More than likely a splice/wire is rotted or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;If they don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a ground point for the two stop/tail lamps either on the left frame or the bumper. If that's OK trace the wiring and repair as necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:15:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32208" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:32:24.977" Score="9" ViewCount="7947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend with a 1989 Toyota Camry Wagon and the idle occasionally gets stuck at 2000RPM. In order to get the idle unstuck, we have to press down the gas, kick up the revs and then it will settle back down to a normal idle around 1000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I might be able to fix this by cleaning the throttle body butterfly valve, but it didn't make a difference -- idle still gets stuck at 2000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; photos of the throttle body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHPJL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHPJL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle body before 1/2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPl8w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPl8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle body before 2/2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the photos &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; I sprayed Seafoam in there and scrubbed it with a toothbrush:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s16.postimg.org/tjm1eqvj9/20160321_223849.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s16.postimg.org/tjm1eqvj9/20160321_223849.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle body after 1/2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s16.postimg.org/8b8cxbh2d/20160321_223855.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://s16.postimg.org/8b8cxbh2d/20160321_223855.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle body after 2/2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not clean enough? Any other ideas for what I might do to troubleshoot this idle sticking at 2000RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15940" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.237" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T05:38:34.187" Title="Idle gets stuck at 2000RPM" Tags="|toyota|idle|throttle|throttle-body|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27547" CreationDate="2016-03-25T03:39:53.067" Score="2" ViewCount="2105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello everyone i have an oldsmobile intrigue 1998 and i was just driving home and the car shutdown while driving so i pulled it over put on the hazards tried to restart it and it just cranked and wouldnt turn over, a minute later same thing, so i waited about 15 minutes then it started up and i drove the rest of the way home fine, the same thing happened about 2 months ago and i got the fuel filter replace so id like to ask, why could it be stalling while driving like that? Id like to have some idea so i can maintenance the car to be safe while driving any further clarification i will try to give you upon request, thank you for reading and thank you for your time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15944" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T18:43:44.120" Title="98 olds intrigue stalls while driving" Tags="|stall|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27535" CreationDate="2016-03-25T03:43:38.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to charge at a Tesla Supercharger, no matter what. Not even all Model Ss can do this. The charger inquires from the car, probably its serial number, and validates it in a database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless someone has reverse engineered the protocol and put in a valid S/N, it isn't going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T03:43:38.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27545" CreationDate="2016-03-25T03:55:44.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go.  The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system.  You are going to want to read the stored codes.  Not sure where you are located, but in my location Autozone offers a free service to read the codes for you.  You can also purchase a code reader for $25 or so.  I'm not positive when your car went from OBD1 --&gt; OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostics) but if you are still at OBD1 adapters are available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the codes, then act accordingly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note, not every failure mode will set a code.  The computer system doesn't really know how to read successful spark.  There are other faults that don't set codes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible Issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.  Something stuck open or closed will affect air / fuel ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon Cannister purge system, again this could affect air/ fuel ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plug wires shorting out.  (Quick test... run car at night in DARK location. Open hood, check the spark plug wire routing carefully, look for visible sparking when the engine is running..Keep hands AWAY from fan belts, alternator fan. Be safe.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignition Coil not functioning correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine control computer not sending out correct signals, particularly spark. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/863298-2001-no-spark-no-start.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Been there, done that and it was quite ugly.&lt;/a&gt;  The CPU chip worked okay, so there were messages, etc, but the IGBT chip inside the module that controlled spark wasn't working.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty fuel filter, not allowing gas to flow easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad electrical sending unit, this affects the decisions that the computer makes about air / fuel ratio.  Generally these do set codes... (EGR pressure / numerous temperature sensors / throttle position sensor / etc...) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad / dirty fuel injector.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For hot engine stall, its possible that the fuel is &quot;boiling&quot; from liquid state to vapor and not flowing correctly.  This would account for why car starts after 30 minutes but not right away.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad / worn fuel pump not getting pressure right. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old vacuum hose cracked / leaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical short causing faulty reading from a sensor somewhere.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step #1: read the codes, report back here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step #2: If you are a do it yourself person, then step #2 is to purchase a repair manual.  This will help huge in troubleshooting.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T18:43:44.120" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T18:43:44.120" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27550" CreationDate="2016-03-25T08:51:00.387" Score="9" ViewCount="52369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you take off the wheel (when replacing the pads, for example) and look at the brake rotor. What are the signs that it's time to replace the disc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's stick to clear visual signs that don't need extra special equipment or driving the car and listening/feeling to notice, such as slight warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of examples that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scoring &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3SQM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x3SQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh6Rd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh6Rd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Very bad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxmMx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxmMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What&amp;#39;s depicted here is not necessarily bad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else? Is rust dangerous? Even if you have a single sign to add, don't hesitate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example pictures along with written signs would be extra helpful!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T14:34:35.023" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:09:44.300" Title="What are the visual signs that brake rotors must be replaced?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|replace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27554" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:32:45.593" Score="8" ViewCount="5125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an old and worn out motorcycle tank pad (protector) and I want to replace it with a new one. It's too late to remove it together with the glue by heating it, so now I need to find a way to remove just the glue that was left behind (quite a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for most motorcycle question, the internet is full of different opinions. Using alcohol, WD40 or gasoline, to name a few. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a minimal damage method of getting rid of that leftover glue? (I'm asking for a metal painted tank.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T06:34:46.120" Title="How to remove tank pad glue?" Tags="|motorcycle|paint|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27548" CreationDate="2016-03-25T13:56:29.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overheated rotors can show some tell-tale signs.  Once the metal has been overheated, it can weaken or warp which are both &lt;em&gt;bad things&lt;/em&gt;.  Some signs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bluing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUDae.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUDae.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8BoCi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8BoCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cracks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These &quot;spider cracks&quot;, &quot;heat cracks&quot;, or &quot;heat checks&quot; are only on the surface of the rotor, but are still bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4EDz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4EDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T13:56:29.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-25T16:26:12.837" Score="4" ViewCount="1284" Body="&lt;p&gt;We got this little KIA for a great deal with only 102k miles on it. Probably put less than 1k miles on it before the radiator split open on top, and it quit. (We were driving on the highway with cruise control on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We replaced the radiator, and we guessed that the head gasket would need replaced also. Took it all apart, and sure enough, there was some rust and gunk in the cylinders, so we bought a gasket kit and replaced all the gaskets. This took place over a couple of months, as we found time to work on it. By now it has been about 6 months since it last ran, and we can't get it to start! It cranks just fine, and fires once in a while, but just can't quite get enough &quot;oomph&quot; to actually run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We theorized that since it's been 6 months, maybe the gas was bad, so we emptied the tank as much as we could, and added 4-5 gallons of high-octane. Checked all the plugs, and we're getting spark... Double-checked the timing belt, it's aligned. Pulled a bunch of fuses and put them back in, and all of a sudden it &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; would start! (Firing somewhat rhythmically) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cranking for a while, now it's basically back to where it was, just cranking and cranking, with a little half-hearted attempt once in a while. Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15952" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T22:01:27.593" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T07:15:33.870" Title="'08 Kia Spectra won't start after head gasket/timing belt replacement" Tags="|starting|timing-belt|kia|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-25T16:37:45.670" Score="5" ViewCount="9901" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1999 V10 Ford chassis on a 2000 Coachman motorhome.  Engine starts great when cold, runs great, idles great, no skipping, missing, etc.  Problem is that after driving more than 30 minutes or so it won't start, cranks but will not start until it has set long enough to get cold again.  Computer code says lean fuel.  Mechanic who ran codes had no idea as he checked and I heard him tell his coworker that it was getting plenty of fuel.  Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15953" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T20:10:30.440" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T09:38:13.230" Title="Lean Fuel Code on V10" Tags="|engine|ford|fuel-system|hot-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27549" CreationDate="2016-03-25T17:03:49.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of putting answers on questions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wd40.com/uses-tips/automotive/all?per_page=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WD-40 Website&lt;/a&gt; lists 100's of uses for the product and one of them is actually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Removes adhesive tape without damaging factory paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it sounds like that advice is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I second &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27549/how-to-remove-tank-pad-glue#comment44215_27549&quot;&gt;DucatiKiller's&lt;/a&gt; comment about Goo Gone or similar &quot;citrus&quot; cleaners.  I've had good luck with them on automotive paint.  They can be harsh to some paints or plastics, so test on any non-paint surfaces first, or just keep it away from your seat or trim to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, for any product to remove the sticky stuff, it has to be able to reach the sticky layer.  Get off as much of the tank pad as you can before using anything.  Plastic scrapers can help peel it off without harming the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T17:03:49.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27557" CreationDate="2016-03-25T18:40:07.057" Score="7" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to remove rusted spinlde cap to change brake drum shoes but it seems to be stuck. Tried to grab eyeglass screw driver flat and oil lubricant spray can to remove the rust but it is pretty stuck. &#xA;here is the picture of the spindle &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fi6SH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fi6SH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is a rare suzuki swift 1.3 L sedan (or junk!!). I have heard that rear brakes can last for more than 100k. Have no clue when was last time it was dissemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick?? The only thing I can think of that might work is to torche it. (bad guess hopefully)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it supposed to be removed according to  a manual &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrQJ2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrQJ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15954" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:19:09.137" Title="removing spindle cap" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17358" CreationDate="2016-03-25T18:54:12.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just repaired the identical car, the ignition does not come on and the wheels are locked and it sets steering column mechanical fault codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the solenoid that locks the column to stop the wheel turning is faulty, after it receives the unlock command from the electronic ignition switch it tells the ignition switch it is unlocked and then the ignition switch enables the ignition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes won't sell these parts to anyone they say they are security items and you have to pay the dealer to install and code the modules.(Completely illegal!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a company that if you send them the column and electronic ignition switch they remove the faulty solenoid and fit an emulator and program everything to work upon installation. You have to clear all the fault codes after. No more lock problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15955" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T21:57:50.103" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:57:50.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27555" CreationDate="2016-03-25T19:25:03.283" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to summarize.  Use the following tools to remove the pressed on cap.  You will want to go slow, take your time.  Get a comfortable stool (or tire!) to sit on.  Don't rush it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a 1&quot; wide, thick blade paint scraper. (Oops.. these are actually called putty knives, not paint scrapers...)  Best are the cheap ones in which the handle is riveted on, and the steel runs the length of the handle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the sharp edge of the paint scraper in the slight gap between the cast iron housing and the cap.  The bevel should be facing you, the flat side against the housing.  Tap straight down into the gap.  Tap, spin the drum a bit, tap again.  repeat.  The goal with this tool is to enlarge the gap between the housing and the cap from zero to 1/16&quot; of an inch or so.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch over to the cold chisel.  Tap again to enlarge the gap from 1/16&quot; until the part comes free.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, be careful, go slow.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CT2u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CT2u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tools to use...&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T19:36:33.410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T19:36:33.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27553" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:09:21.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be due to a few things related to the fuel supply line, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a leaky fuel injector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minute cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bad non-return valve in the fuel line which is allowing pressurized fuel to flow backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are expected to be pressurized during a hot start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:09:21.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27555" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:19:09.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way I've ever done is to use a long handled flat tip screwdriver and a hammer. Lay the screwdriver like is shown in your picture behind the lip of the cap. Using the hammer, tap lightly to get the screwdriver to insert. Once the screwdriver is inserted and can catch without slipping out (cap should have come out a little bit at this point), twist the screwdriver to wedge it out further. Move the screwdriver around to another side of the cap where it is still tight, place the screwdriver in the crack, then twist again. It should be most of the way out at this point. It should have enough movement you can force it out without too much of an issue. You may want to even grab it with a pair of adjustable pliers right on the cap and tweak it out at this point (perpendicular to the vehicle, right on the end). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:19:09.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25373" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:57:24.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes really corroded ones will not remove like that or there is a lip behind the core plug that doesn't allow that to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can drill a hole in it and screw in a bolt with a self tapping thread, eventually the bolt will come up against the inside of the block and the plug will pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can drill a hole in it and insert a self tapping screw attached to a slide hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T21:56:01.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:56:01.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6250" CreationDate="2016-03-25T22:48:21.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be very careful.When you use a 12V    lead acid battery to test your 12V fans.Remember that lead acid batteries have huge fault currents .This is why they were chosen over the edison cell when electric start became the norm for cars.If your fan is a brushless DC type it will fireball if you get your polarity wrong .If it is a brushed PM motor it will just run backwards .Ideally you should do your run up on a variable DC lab type supply but these things generally dont push out enough current for auto sparky work .The key is to start at zero volts and slowly wind up to 14V checking current all the way .If you dont have a grunty variable DC supply or your DC supply is not grunty enough which was my case then place a 12V car light bulb in series with the battery on initial power application .If things are OK then bypass the bulb .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T22:48:21.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:07:48.197" Score="3" ViewCount="2428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission. I don't know much about cars. The car seems to be having problems switching gears, especially in low gear. For example, often when I'm accelerating from a stop, things will go fine at first and then once I've gained a little bit of speed the engine will seem to rev for a while before switching into the next gear. Sometimes taking my foot off the accelerator will help it along, but this doesn't always work, either. It's possible the transmission is slipping into neutral, but I think power is still going to the engine, even when it's rev-ing. The transmission doesn't seem to have the problem at higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already had it checked out by a mechanic and they recommended I repair the transmission, which would cost $4K. They didn't seem too sure about it though and it makes me think the problem may not be so serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do others think? Is this a serious problem? Is there anything I can do to work around it without actually needing to repair the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T01:07:48.197" Title="2008 Honda Accord Automatic Transmission - Transmission seems to be slipping. Is it serious?" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|accord|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27461" CreationDate="2016-03-26T10:43:13.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like there could only be two main causes here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine timing, I would say that it is the most likely cause, have you used the factory timing marks? Always turn the engine over by hand at least twice. The cam could be a complete turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Valve clearance is way to tight, I find this unlikely because something would have to be going majorly wrong to adjust the valves to tight that something bends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T10:43:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21026" CreationDate="2016-03-26T15:03:47.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lived out of my van for six months, I had a relay operating two hundred amp hour deep cycle batteries.  The fridge isn't drawing max load when it's cool, if you're in a hot climate it will draw more. Charging my computer phone, fridge and doing 40 minutes driving a day my batteries will last about 6 days, and I would have to charge up somewhere or go without a fridge for a while. I'm going to be installing solar panels in conjunction with my relay. One is not enough you need a dual charging system, if you're going to be living in it for more than a week at a time, and doing less than 3 hours driving a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15966" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T00:58:26.283" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T00:58:26.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T16:55:56.813" Score="6" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with DT Lanza carburetor and the mechanic said I need to replace all the parts in carburetor. Can I get DT 200r carburetor on the DT Lanza 230, because it is hard to find it's spare parts in carburetor in my country. How would the performance be if I get the DT 200r carburetor on the DT Lanza?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T01:01:11.500" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T01:01:11.500" Title="carburetor failure in yamaha dt lanza" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27565" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:20:03.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The DT 230 Carburetor will fit on some DT200's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1999 model of your bike uses the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mikuni  TM30x1 Flat Slide Carburetor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older models use a different carburetor model.  The slide is round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the flat slide carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g9vl1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g9vl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image of the round slide carburetor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sn4Rk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sn4Rk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these carburetors are readily available on ebay and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=TM30x1&amp;amp;oq=TM30x1&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=mikuni%20carburetor%20TM30x1&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;spd=18017864666151687805&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google shop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:20:03.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T17:26:17.017" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMW 328i Cab - if I get an A2DP adapter to connect audio from iPhone to the car aux, will I still be able to view contacts, receive and make calls on the car's bluetooth hands free system? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:26:17.017" Title="BMW - what happens to car bluetooth phone if I connect audio from iphone via A2DP adaptor?" Tags="|bmw|audio|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T18:36:28.140" Score="3" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the heater / AC control module, but the airflow deflector still doesn't change.  It is stuck on floor.  It sounds like the module is trying to change, but nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15969" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:50:06.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:50:06.483" Title="Unable to redirect airflow from floor to defroster, etc.in 2006 Cobalt" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|hvac|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27577" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:00:16.283" Score="5" ViewCount="1448" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvNlp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvNlp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmCcK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmCcK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6MHJ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6MHJ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDyl6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Find more images here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a Toronto suburb on the East side, and recently the weather has been inconsistent. A few days ago it was sunny above 0, and then on the 24th of this month, there was freezing rain and below 0 degrees Celsius. Yesterday it was kind of the same but there was no rain, just cold and with the freezing rain still everywhere. Today it is above 0 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it possible for this back window to shatter? My first thought was that it was a person who did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also comparing to pictures from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=car+window+breaking&amp;amp;biw=1851&amp;amp;bih=995&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi--7uw-N7LAhXmn4MKHQtjCuAQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Google search&lt;/a&gt; my car window doesn't look like those...but still am wondering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15971" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T01:05:10.753" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T16:50:02.680" Title="My Lexus RX 350 back window shattered. Is this possible by weather or only a person?" Tags="|maintenance|lexus|break-in|window|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27576" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:56:16.773" Score="9" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a chevy 350 manufactured in 2015 for free because of some crank issues. I'm in the process of rebuilding it and have finished the disassembly of the engine. The engine itself only has 200 miles on it would it be necessary to replace the piston rings on the piston heads or can I leave the ones in there? Would that cause any loss of compression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13624" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T00:45:51.720" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T00:15:01.423" Title="Should I replace piston rings on chevy 350?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|rebuild|sbc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27571" CreationDate="2016-03-26T21:59:53.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would replace the piston rings and inspect the pistons for any signs of damage. You are already investing money in repairing the engine. It does not make sense to skip such an important part. Make sure that the cylinder surface is prepared properly. A good machine shop should be able to do the work for not a lot of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If you comment about the &quot;crank issues&quot; we could probably help identify other potential issues that you may not be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T21:59:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27570" CreationDate="2016-03-26T22:04:26.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The window looks smashed, in my opinion[1]. When you smash a window pressure is created and it forces it to bend. Your window seems to have been hit in the middle, which caused the borders to pry themselves against the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] I've smashed a fair amount of windows myself in junkyards and accidents. Most notably the windshield of a BMW with a grapefruit (prank gone wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T22:04:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27570" CreationDate="2016-03-26T23:18:12.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with the bad freeze of a few years ago that wouldn't have happened. The weather is floating above and below zero very randomly but its not like if you were to pour boiling water on the frozen glass. I don't think it was the ice looking at it, then again you can never be sure just from a picture. &#xA;Its not even said it was a person, I had the misfortune of having a sign fly right into one of my cars in the driveway, did quite a bit of damage, if it hit the glass instead of the body it would have shattered it. Always a risk when the car is in the driveway, eh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T23:23:21.210" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T23:23:21.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27568" CreationDate="2016-03-27T00:33:53.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things come to mind,  the blend door motor seized while trying to home (not that uncommon an occurrence after disconnecting the battery or if it dies) or you need to home the controller/motor. The homing /calibration is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the temp controls to a little over 1/2 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set the fan on medium (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the ignition off &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the HVAC fuse or disconnect the battery for 1 minute &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the HVAC fuse or disconnect the battery for 1 minute &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install the fuse or reconnect the battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let it idle for 2 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn off the ignition for at least 10 seconds but no more than 30 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;restart the engine and test the a/c controls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T00:33:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27571" CreationDate="2016-03-27T00:56:55.290" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With only 200 miles on the engine, I'm thinking you could get away with using the same rings on the engine as long as you didn't see any scoring on the cylinder walls or any other obvious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, a stock set of piston rings is dirt cheap for a 350 or a SBC in general ... as long as you are talking about the Gen I SBC and not a Gen III SBC (LS1)(I know, those aren't &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 350ci (only 346ci), but yah, throwing it out there). You can get an entire rebuild set, to include bearings, rings, and gaskets for under $100 from Summit (at least at the time of this post). With only 200 miles on the block, I'd bet you wouldn't even have to bust the glaze on the cylinder walls as it should probably still have a great hone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to buy the gasket set anyway and everything is all opened up to you already, it really doesn't make sense not to put all fresh parts in there. One and done ... do it right the first time and you won't have to worry about it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T00:56:55.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27570" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:17:00.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safety glass will most always look the same no matter how or where it shatters, mainly due to the design of the glass. It's made to break into a thousand little pieces (you'll still find pieces five years from now if you still have the car ... they just get everywhere). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll ever be able to conclusively figure out, with 100% surety whether this was weather or some type of sabotage going on. Here are some things to look at which may help you figure it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a foreign object inside the car, like a rock or brick or something which shouldn't be there? If so, you can almost be sure there was foul play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was there anything missing? If there was stuff missing, this too would lead you to believe there was foul play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was there any other windows in the neighborhood which were broke?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know of anyone who is mad at you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot conclusively link any of the above questions to this incident, you almost have to assume it wasn't foul play, but more than likely some other cause. Remember that safety glass is pretty tough stuff, but as you can tell, it's not unbreakable. Glass is strong, but very susceptible to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/18183/4152&quot;&gt;stress risers&lt;/a&gt;. If pressure were applied in just the right direction at the right time in conjunction with the stress of the recent hot/cold cycles, this may have happened. Safety glass will not crack alone, it will shatter. That's its nature and how it's designed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can never rule out what kids will do, but they will almost invariably leave behind something, be it a rock or something else hard. They won't stick around to pull it out. They will try to be as far away as possible when they do it so as to attain a quick getaway. If it were a thief, stuff would be missing. Take a good look inside your car, I'm betting it will tell you the tale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T01:17:00.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:40:15.470" Score="8" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has a fresh top end.  Carburetor cleaned.  Fresh fuel mix.  Reed valve looks ok.  Air filter and intake, ok.  Has good spark. After it dies, the plug is wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Restarts after cleaning plug?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the stop switch and harness. I inspected wiring and connectors, ignition coil primary and secondary circuits. Checked for intake air leaks. Runs great than just dies and fuel fouls the plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a malfunctioning or maladjusted power valve be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I check and adjust them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, could it be the carburetor power jet solenoid?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I test it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15975" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T05:39:33.810" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:34:14.170" Title="2002 Suzuki RM250 - Dies after warm up, restarts after cleaning wet plug" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|carburetor|fouled-plug|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27578" CreationDate="2016-03-27T02:29:11.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the issue here is with air-fuel metering. A wet plug means unburnt fuel, so you either have too much fuel or not enough air making its way into the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:29:11.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T05:18:43.250" Score="10" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma SLS with a 4.3 l V6 Vortec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to purr, now it growls, sounds like a small diesel engine. Vibration can be felt (mostly in the dead pedal) and also vibrates/growls in park and neutral. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just came back from usual oil change, but has never sounded like that before, usually a nice quiet motor. Also significant vibration at 90 kph, smoothing somewhat at 100 and up..Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15976" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T17:38:41.793" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T17:38:41.793" Title="semi loud growling noise at all speeds" Tags="|engine|noise|exhaust|vibration|gmc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T11:26:47.413" Score="3" ViewCount="3728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put 17 liters of petrol in my Renault kangaroo it already had 8 liters of diesel in it had it drained by mechanic put 12 liters diesel in it took a while but did start and run well until I got 3 miles away there is a lot of air going through the pipes.renault kangoo &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15978" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T12:55:32.983" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T14:39:54.197" Title="keep getting air in the fuel line" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|renault|kangoo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2016-03-27T12:51:23.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tank stores 3.2 litre of fuel for reserve ..but you can use only 2 lt of petrol because its usable capacity is 2 lt only..rest 1.2 lt of petrol are used when the bike runs in reserve for long time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15979" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T15:42:45.313" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T15:42:45.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27548" CreationDate="2016-03-27T13:09:44.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The previous poster have great examples of rotors in need of replacement but I worked as a mechanic for years and rotors have become so cheap for most vehicles the easiest thing to do is replace them as paying someone to resurface often costs more on labor than buying new rotors. The most common symptom is shaking in the steering wheel when braking from high speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:09:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27514" CreationDate="2016-03-27T13:13:38.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like rust that has begun to form under the paint or something failing with the clear coat. You may have to sand it down and refinish to fix this and keep it from getting worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:13:38.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17118" CreationDate="2016-03-27T13:17:28.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many very technical diagnostic methods involving chassis mics etc ... All the years I worked as a mechanic I just took the car to an open lot and made tight circles to the left and right to put a load onto one side at a time, you should hear the difference while under load like this and be able to determine which ones need replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:17:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25634" CreationDate="2016-03-27T13:58:18.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you ever solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just had a customer buy some eBay Peugeot ABS sensors and they were completely faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced with some OE quality (Pagid) sensors and the car was fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest only using OE quality part or at least only buy parts from a decent motor factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T13:58:18.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T14:56:01.093" Score="5" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving on the interstate and I notice a heavy cloud of smoke following me. I pull over to shoulder and see that it is coming from under hood. Being a female, I didn't open hood immediately but, continued to smoke steadily for at least ten minutes, gradually decreasing.  When I did pop the hood, I discovered that oil had been blown all over the left side of engine. There was puddle that had formed  underneath stretching about 2 feet or so from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight as to the cause? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am totally lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15981" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T05:23:49.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T05:23:49.960" Title="Did I blow my 1998 civic up?" Tags="|honda|civic|leak|smoke|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T11:58:58.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18014" CreationDate="2016-03-27T16:37:29.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you have bad rings on your piston, thus letting some oil to get past and into the combustion chamber producing white smoke as oil does when it's burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15984" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T16:37:29.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27966" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:36:59.233" Score="6" ViewCount="2599" Body="&lt;p&gt;My motorcycle (1982 Yamaha Seca 650) has had a strange problem with the idle for a few years now. I have not been able to diagnose it and I'm hoping that someone here might be able to help. It starts fine and will run fine while driving. seems to have lots of power and very responsive. it will idle just great at 2000rpm, but once the revs drop below 1500rpm at some point it's like one cylinder stops firing completely, the engine will drop from 1200rpm to 500 instantly, the sound changes noticeably and if I don't hit the gas it'll stall out after running like that for 5 to 10 seconds. Also while warming the bike up before rides the exhaust pipe on cylinder 4 would take much longer then the others to heat up (even when the bike has been idling at 2000+ rpm the whole time, which makes me wonder if that cylinder is ever getting a proper burn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried cleaning out the carbs a couple times, this winter I went through closely and them made sure to clean every little passage and jet. I've tried switching the ignition coils and spark plugs, same cylinder stayed cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;really starting to run out of things to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15986" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T22:15:17.153" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T05:01:36.473" Title="Yamaha Seca - Motorcycle Idle problems" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|idle|yamaha|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:57:46.533" Score="3" ViewCount="6989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible that's leaking oil in #4 cylinder causing engine light to come on.  Now, I have changed valve cover gasket and tube seals, spark plugs and wires and coil, pcv checked okay, compression test on all cylinder was 120.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still leaks in #4 and light comes on with code 304.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15983" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T18:29:45.453" LastActivityDate="2022-05-11T13:51:01.250" Title="P0304 code on PT Cruiser" Tags="|engine|chrysler|pt-cruiser|p0304|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T18:43:02.690" Score="10" ViewCount="8593" Body="&lt;p&gt;After travelling 7-8km on my Royal Enfield Classic 350, the bike acts as if the fuel is finished &amp;amp; the engine shuts down, but it starts again when I pull the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this behavior?  Could it be the carburetor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15987" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T15:03:46.067" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T10:43:01.640" Title="Why is the engine on my Royal Enfield Classic 350 shutting down?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|enfield-classic|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27593" CreationDate="2016-03-27T19:10:53.877" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO you have a fuel starved vehicle.  Perhaps some blockage in the gas tank at the petcock filter or an inline filter between your gas tank and the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you run the bike the fuel might not be filling the float bowl at the rate that the engine is consuming fuel.  When your bike stalls the fuel is trickling into the float bowl and then you can start it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take your petcock out and thoroughly clean it as well as clean any inline fuel filters you have and see if you can get any silt or debris out the fuel system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have lots of silt or debris you would want to remove the carburetor and  clean it all out with pressurized carburetor cleaner to squirt out the jets, but that's ancillary in my opinion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sounds like fuel starvation from my PoV.  Clean out/replace any/all fuel filters in your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T19:10:53.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27764" CreationDate="2016-03-27T20:47:52.000" Score="15" ViewCount="15397" Body="&lt;p&gt;GM continues to design and produce push rod (Over Head Valve or OHV) engines while most of their competitors have gone to over head cam (OHC) configurations for their performance engines. Is there a known reason for this? Their smaller engines utilize overhead cams, but the larger V8 engines continue to use pushrods (Gen III/VI [LSx] and Gen V [LT1] Small Block).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T01:56:42.417" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:47:20.567" Title="Why does GM still insist on push rod engines?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|gm|push-rod|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27595" CreationDate="2016-03-28T00:09:36.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OHC engine has advantage over the OHV engine at higher revs .The same is true when comparing side valve to OHV .Smaller engines need the revs more and have more to gain by being OHC .The cost penalty of OHC is less on an inline 4 which is the most common small car engine.The OHC engine uses up more space in relation to its cubic capacity .Remember that the Gen 1 smallblock chev is the most transplanted engine .If you are concerned about volume you could argue that if you designed a OHC engine that occupied the same amount of space you would end up with less cubic inches .In fact it could be argued that on a normal heavy street car your overall performance could be worse .It is totally plausible that OHC gives you more power per cubic inch albeit at higher RPM where engine wear and internal friction are big factors But OHV gives more HP per pound .Remember also that many people have big cars for towing where torque is more important.The OHC engine has cambelt[s] and these belts did not last as long as expected so OHV has a definate  maintenance advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="14881" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T00:37:15.340" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T00:37:15.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27571" CreationDate="2016-03-28T00:15:01.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to remove the pistons anyway, in order to fix the crank issue? Sure why not, because you are going to have to put rings in it when you reassemble. But, if they were replaced when it was rebuilt 200 miles ago, and they were installed correctly? There's really no point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the previous owner installed/honed the cylinders properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubts as to workmanship previous? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I think it's a no-brainer to ensure that the whole engine is rebuilt properly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15989" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T00:15:01.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="895" CreationDate="2016-03-28T00:37:47.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I had the same problem with my Polo 1.6 2008 model the HT leads come with a metal surround that arc's against the cylinder head remove the metal surround and it resolved me problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T00:37:47.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24902" CreationDate="2016-03-28T00:54:40.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oversquare and undersquare have been described by others .If your car is heavy in relation to the cubic inches then go for Stroker Undersquare .You need the torque down low .If your car is light then oversquare will make more HP .If you are wanting to hotrod a motor that means more RPM then over       square is less likely to blow up .This is why smallblock chev of all generations is popular .Under square gives better fuel economy so life is a  trade off .In Great Britian they had a RAE horsepower tax that favoured long stroke engines so many cars were not optimum .When Ford came to Britian they made small cars like cortinas and escorts but did not go crazy undersquare like most local manufacturers did .This is why it was much easier to hot up a cortina than a morris.This is also why the chev 305 is not as good to hotrod as a chev 327.Remember that peak piston speed is more likely to blow up a motor than rpm .The short stroke that is expected on an under square engine gives lower piston speeds for the same rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="14881" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T21:16:22.177" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:16:22.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28099" CreationDate="2016-03-28T01:41:51.920" Score="1" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I attempted to park my Mitsubishi Montero 2002, switching the gear stick from D to P did not disengage the transmission.  After running from P to D slowly a couple of times, the car did eventually disengage and I was able to Park. Any idea what went wrong there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15985" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T13:11:50.513" Title="Automatic Transmition shifting gear not changing to anything other than D" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T02:56:44.820" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The previous owner of my Honda Hornet 900 was a brilliant mechanic but a terrible electrician. They added some extra lights that are beautifully fitted but wired illegally. There's a basic switch on the handlebars that turns them on but if you turn them off and immediately on again they switch mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High beam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low beam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it worse they wired them into the headlamp so they're only on when the headlamp is full beam. That means if I ride at night and change the headlamp from full to low to full then they change mode which makes them illegal (in New Zealand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get the lights open to see if the control for the modes is in there but I can't figure out how to get it open. Is this a standard part or has it been specially machined? There's no model or serial number on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More photos &lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/s/aHskxeoRfd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdx1G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="206" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T03:51:09.377" Title="Can't recognise or open these custom motorcycle lights" Tags="|motorcycle|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27601" CreationDate="2016-03-28T03:51:09.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine found them on AliExpress as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sale-Black-Transformers-3000LM-3-Modes-U5-Cree-Led-Motorcycle-Headlight-Waterproof-Lamp-Laser-Light-for/32385774443.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3000LM Black Transformers 3 Modes U5 Led Motorcycle Headlight Waterproof LED&lt;/a&gt;. The 3 mode switching is actually built into the light as a feature. However, I also found this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQIRV1y-Q6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to remove strobe and low beam mode from U5 U3 motorcycle LED fog light&lt;/a&gt; which I will try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="206" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T03:51:09.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T05:50:46.757" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Perodua Viva Elite auto gear car from December 2011. It was manufactured in 2011. The odometer reading the day before yesterday was 72000 but I noticed yesterday morning it reads near 61000. I have not touched the battery or any electrical item so what could be causing my mileage to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15991" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T14:55:45.343" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T09:49:08.907" Title="Sudden change of the odometer reading in Perodua viva elite" Tags="|electrical|gauges|odometer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T06:42:21.957" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem, 2001 Jetta 2.0 GLS, installed entire new system, compressor, clutch, dryer, expansion valve, worked great for about 4 months then nothing. Clutch won't come on. Acted like it was the climate control panel, took dash out, ordered new panel from APW, installed panel, still nothing. I thought it could have been the manual A/C switch,. However, when I pulled the glove box &amp;amp; radio out, now when I push in on the MAX or recirculate switch the parking brake light comes on on the dash &amp;amp; buzzer sounds!!! Go Figure???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14483" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T23:05:52.413" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T23:05:52.413" Title="Jetta 2001 GLS 2.0, AC clutch won't come on" Tags="|ac|jetta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T06:49:48.947" Score="7" ViewCount="3452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ELM327-based OBD2 reader that I can issue commands to when connected to a car. I'm running this on a 2015 Acura RDX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I issue the request &lt;code&gt;0100&lt;/code&gt; to get supported mode 1 PIDs, I get the following two responses back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;41 00 98 3A 80 03&#xA;41 00 BF BF A8 93&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that if there are multiple ECUs that can respond to a request they will both answer, so this may be why there are two responses. Does this mean that if I now issue a request that both support, I should get two answers back? And if I issue a request that only one or the other supports, I should only get back one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15993" LastEditorUserId="19007" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T14:25:13.267" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T14:25:13.267" Title="What does it mean when the ELM327 OBD2-reader gives two lines of info for 0100 request?" Tags="|obd-ii|elm-327|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T08:57:00.070" Score="1" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reconditioning cylinder head and skimming.  Fitting new hydraulic lifters and rockers, find no compression on engine once oil reaches the lifters compression disappears.  Tried reducing length of valves and even using gaskets on cambelt.  Little or no improvement.  Compression on 2 cylinders.  3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15995" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T08:57:00.070" Title="Opel Corsa lite 1.4 2002" Tags="|fuel-consumption|opel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27663" CreationDate="2016-03-28T12:19:21.990" Score="7" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my 2004 VW Passat B5 a new MOT, but they said that an advisory item that would get worse over time were worn outer CV joints. The car creeks when turning on full left lock, though I haven't checked the full right lock recently. There is also grease coming from the nearside CV joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the exact roll of this particular part?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it a fairly straight forward procedure to fit a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/transmission/final-drive/cv-joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kit like this&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What tools might you need (a list of all required would be ideal as I have almost nothing)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anything I should watch out for that could be easily damaged in this process?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never done anything on my car more than replace &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24124/2004-vw-passat-b5-cigarette-lighter-broken-common-problem/24127#24127&quot;&gt;a fuse&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24891/14003&quot;&gt;a door lock&lt;/a&gt; in the past so I'm trying to see if I'm way out of my depth here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:08:59.623" Title="What exactly is an outer CV joint and how can I replace one?" Tags="|vw|drivetrain|passat|cv-joint|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:05:50.727" Score="2" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be replacing front brake pads and rotors on my 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5) @ 40,000km. What I will do is purchase all the parts and bring it to my trustworthy mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please confirm my list of parts. So far I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotors (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen wear sensors, however, I am not sure if those need to be replaced or I could re-use the old ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:30:58.497" Title="Replacing brakes on 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5)" Tags="|brakes|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27609" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:30:58.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On many vehicles there are carrier/caliper bolts that are supposed to be &quot;one time use&quot; and should be replaced every time you take them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear sensors that I have seen are built into the pads, so make sure you bought the pads with sensors if your car requires them.  In some cases there will be a VW version of the same pad that doesn't have sensors, but the Audi pads will (just an example, not sure if that's exactly true).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic does brakes frequently and doesn't mind having the rotors turned (or can even do it in his own shop), then I don't think you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to replace the rotors.  Many DIY people will replace the rotors because it's not worth the time or effort to have them turned, but that' usually less of an issue when a mechanic is doing it.  Of course, I'm speaking generally here, and some cars it is recommended or required to replace the rotors each time -- I'm not sure if the S4 falls into that category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other items I can think of are all &quot;shop items&quot; like caliper grease and brake cleaner...  Stuff you shouldn't have to supply unless you're doing the job yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for other people considering this, make sure the mechanic is OK with installing your parts.  I've heard from some in the past that &quot;if it's not my parts, I can't warranty the work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:30:58.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:41:33.650" Score="3" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 PIDs listed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wiki page&lt;/a&gt;  - Commanded EGR and ethanol%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried getting the values from some cars but have not succeeded. I am curious to know what do these 2 PIDs mean? Can someone please give a sample data set  (if you have) to get a taste of these 2 PIDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does that ethanol% PID tell what is the best ethanol% my fuel should have or what ethanol% is currently in my fuel?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="14525" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T09:28:36.643" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:03:44.797" Title="Need explanation on Commanded EGR and ethanol%" Tags="|fuel-system|obd-ii|egr|ethanol|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27630" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:52:11.990" Score="4" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to drop off my rotors to an auto parts store that does rotor turning in house and I wondered when I pickup my rotors and check it's thicker than the minimum thickness from the manufacture should the rotor thickness measurement be the exact same or can there be a difference in one thousandth?  If I take a set of rotors to be turned should both finished rotors be of equal thickness?  Shouldn't all waves in the rotor be lathed out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T14:07:03.283" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T17:23:53.740" Title="When getting rotors turned should the thickness be exactly the same throughout?" Tags="|brake-rotor|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:00:41.847" Score="4" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 BMW 328xi.  I'm told all BMW's from 2002 on have Bluetooth.  I looked online and found a video from a dealership that showed a person pressing and holding the telephone icon on the steering wheel to activate the radio to search for a Bluetooth device to connect with.  I did this for quite some time (in excess of a minute I'd estimate) but the radio never indicated it was trying to pair with a Bluetooth device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible there is a short somewhere, or a fuse that's burned out, or some other &quot;quick hit&quot; I can perform before I bring this to a shop and spend money to get it fixed?  Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T01:14:54.000" Title="Bluetooth not working - Any ideas?" Tags="|bmw|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27633" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:13:47.900" Score="5" ViewCount="5325" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake cleaner spray I use is relatively cheap and does a great job cleaning my tools. After an oil change, I spray oily stuff and they become clean. The sprayed brake cleaner evaporates and dry fast. I found the approach quite easy and efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to expand the use of the brake cleaner to the actual engine area such as the dirty oil cap and inside the oil filter area. Is there any side effect with that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, what are the side effects when I use brake cleaner spray on stuff other than the actual brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T14:28:44.653" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T18:35:13.460" Title="Is there any side effect with using brake cleaners as a general grease or oil cleaner?" Tags="|brakes|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27624" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:29:36.527" Score="3" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toyota Matrix 2012 Oil Filter Cap becomes extremely tight and hard to open&#xA;I was working on my Friend’s Toyota Matrix 2012 Oil Change and I encountered a situation with its Special Oil Filter Cap. The cap was excessively tight and it was so difficult to open it. I manage to open the cap, but my finger got injured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I used a wrench&lt;/strong&gt; and the tool shown in below pictures. It is quite efficent.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xC3NL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xC3NL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do member I did not over tightened the cap during the last oil change per instruction on the oil filter. Is there any special technique that I was missing? Why the cap became so tight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T14:36:42.797" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T15:14:04.607" Title="Toyota Matrix 2012 Oil Filter Cap becomes extremely tight and hard to open" Tags="|corolla|oil-filter|matrix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:34:19.170" Score="2" ViewCount="2826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5s 5-speed with about 183K miles. I think it still has the factory clutch, and the transmission fluid is at the correct level. The other day I tried to shift into second gear, but when I let off the clutch it began to grind and then threw it out of gear. Since that incident, I have been unable to get it into second gear even if I try to hold the gear stick in, or try it with the engine off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15999" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T22:55:48.017" LastActivityDate="2018-09-30T04:09:10.547" Title="My car won't shift into second its a 5 speed what can it be?" Tags="|nissan|shifting|altima|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38209" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:40:27.643" Score="9" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I changed the oil on a 2007 Toyota Camry I found debris in the bottom of the used oil container. I used a magnet to test and found the debris to be non-metal. Considering the car age is this normal and what could the debris be in the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After more than 6 months, the car is working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RoverDriver's answer is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is few more data about the experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camry 2007 4 cylinder has a known issue with burning oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The oil change was way overdue and there was little oil left in the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T13:39:35.533" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T13:39:35.533" Title="Found small debris in used oil" Tags="|toyota|oil-change|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:41:04.783" Score="24" ViewCount="9852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I was driving home in a storm and I ended up hydroplaning. My car, Hyundai Elantra Coupe 2014, spun a 360 landing me in the dirt on the side of the road. Luckily, no one was driving by me and no curbs were hit. Besides some dirt on the tires, no visible damage was done. Driving to work today, My steering wheel started shaking around 60 MPH. Does anyone know what the problem could be or have some ideas on how much it may cost to fix before I take it to a mechanic today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16002" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T15:54:15.387" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:51:41.373" Title="Why could my vehicle be shaking around 60mph after hydroplaning?" Tags="|hyundai|steering-wheel|elantra|shaking|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:48:05.727" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;You stated you had dirt in your wheels from the incident. Two things could be happening to you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You still have dirt in one or more of your wheels causing an imbalance. A simple scrub will take care of the issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You threw one or more of your wheel weights. These are the things which keep the wheel/tire from vibrating. You'd need to take it to a tire shop to get it rebalanced. Your mechanic should be able to do this for you as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:48:05.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27618" CreationDate="2016-03-28T14:51:35.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not intimately familiar with the Altima's linkage, but I bet something is worn in the shift linkage not allowing it to go into second gear completely, especially since it happens when the vehicle is off. Since it isn't being allowed to go into second gear completely, when torque is applied through the transmission, it is popped out of gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be a relatively easy fix for a mechanic. Cost shouldn't be too extravagant if this truly is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T14:51:35.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:06:59.777" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though you state that no curb was hit, it could be that you still hit something small while sliding and that could have affected the alignment of the wheels. Or if there really was no obstacle hit, simply switching from the road to dirt at an angle could have been a shock to the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened to me once to hydroplane at ~30km/h and hit a side curve and that completely destroyed my wheels' positions (even had to change some parts). The shock felt in the car at that speed was almost nothing, and the visible damage was again very small, but the shock to the wheels was very high, so that is why I would recommend to check your alignment even if you didn't feel anything inside the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, along with this you should have a mechanic take an overall look and also re-balance your wheels as Paulster2 suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately, you should take a moment to consider &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you hydroplaned. Were you speeding, are your tires in good condition, were they properly inflated, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T13:38:07.727" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:38:07.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27617" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:14:04.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run into this a lot its a combination of the o-ring and the filter cap bing plastic/rounding off. If you have someone lightly pry against the cap and tap it with a hammer and chisel it usually breaks free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always replace the o ring and apply some clean oil to it when changing the filter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T15:14:04.607" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1384" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:19:37.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same problem with my 2.0D V50 137000 miles on the clock never had a problem with the immobiliser before.&#xA;Was waiting to pick daughter up from work engine running okay, turned engine off for a few minutes whilst waiting for her. Everything was normal lights, bells and whistles but engine would not even turn over, no matter what I tried nothing. Got out of car and functioned the door lock to see if it would start, nothing!!&#xA;Three hour wait to be recovered home, when I put the car in the drive I tried it again and got a one off message never had again &quot;Immobiliser check manual&quot; message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trawled the Internet for answers, tried the function lock and unlock the door five times nothing. Disconnected the battery overnight still nothing.&#xA;Checked the relay (R13) and starter relay wires all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point was thinking I'm looking at replacing the antenna ring and seeing pound note signs rolling over!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked the passenger fuse box connections all fine and came across this one of &quot;tapping the key&quot; whilst key in position three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So put key in ignition, turned key to position three and tapped it two or three times with back of screwdriver handle and the car burst into life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magical screwdriver now kept in glove box should the need arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T15:19:37.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:45:51.753" Score="3" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to determine safe supercharged pressure and CFM for a motor cycle engine (fuel injected 149cc (9.31 cubic inches) 12.9 bhp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16004" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T15:49:50.290" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T23:50:39.823" Title="Supercharger calculations" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|engine-theory|small-engine|super-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:50:53.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use some copper grease &lt;strong&gt;between brake piston and pad&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Not between pads and disc, or it will just ruin your discs away...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16004" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T15:50:53.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T16:19:23.233" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I determine safe supercharged pressure and cfm for a small engine (149 cc)?&#xA;Yamaha fz 2.0 (India)&#xA;9.31 cubic inches&#xA;13.1 PS (12.9 BHp)&#xA;Fuel injected&#xA;18.4 engine cfm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T16:19:23.233" Title="Supercharging small engine" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|small-engine|super-charger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2016-03-29T01:04:34.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27631" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:00:23.137" Score="7" ViewCount="4696" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I shorten a driveshaft? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any warnings before proceeding?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools are required, and optimal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a &quot;required&quot; way to measure correctly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I keep the metal square?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a preferred area to section out of the driveshaft?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T00:41:34.930" Title="How to shorten a driveshaft?" Tags="|drivetrain|fabrication|welding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27613" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:23:53.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be flat, the grooves and waves taken out.  The thickness is a function of how worn each one was going in so they do not need to be the same, the brake system adjusts to those differences by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I am not sure exactly which type of damage you are talking about related to the &quot;waves&quot;, but if you have a warp in the rotor I would not have it turned even if they claim they can machine the warp out.  It will never really balance and will have more issues related to uneven heating while in use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T17:23:53.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27629" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:42:42.773" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I shorten a drive shaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to shorten a drive shaft is by taking it to the shop and having them do the work for you, to include balancing. I take it this is not what you're asking for though, so here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any warnings before proceeding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three big issues with shortening the drive shaft (DS): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squareness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to do it right, you can do the first two, but leave the balance to a shop (if you could balance the DS, you wouldn't be asking us about it, lol!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What tools are required, and optimal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what exactly is optimal, but things I would use are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tunable MIG welder - This probably wouldn't be your run of the mill welder from Harbor Freight, but a good one which gives you plenty of heat adjustment. A DS usually isn't very thick walled, so welding it is probably like somewhat like welding sheet metal of a body. You don't want a lot of heat build up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle iron - A length of straight angle iron can be used to keep the DS straight while you weld it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutoff saw - Typical friction material cutoff saw will do just fine. The more square you can make the cuts, the more square your finished product is going to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle grinder - To clean up your welds after the fact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other welding accessories as needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;required&quot; way to measure correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Required? Probably not. It's the end product which needs to be right though. To do that you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure when you measure your needed length, the car is flat/level with full weight on the suspension. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the yoke into the transmission to where it will normally be riding, then measure from transmission center yoke to rear diff center yoke. If the yoke is a used one, you'll see where it normally has been riding by a ring around it. Then measure your drive shaft in the same manner to figure out how much to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When welding the DS, ensure the u-joint loops are aligned. If you don't, the u-joints will fight each other and you'll get all kinds of vibration. An easy way to do this is to take a straight edge (or the edge of the angle iron) and run a long line down the DS with a Sharpie marker. This is most easily done when measuring for the cuts. Use the line to align the DS before welding to ensure the loops are exactly in the right place ... no guessing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I keep the metal square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the angle iron to keep the drive shaft straight while welding it. Roll it as you weld. If you are an accomplished welder, cut the portion out of the middle of the DS. At least give yourself some length on either end so it will roll true in the angle iron. You will probably need to tack weld it in several places around the DS as you are welding. Treat it like you would sheet metal. You don't want to over heat any part of it and cause it to warp. When you get the entire circumference welded, grind it down flush to the body of the tube and check to ensure you don't have any holes. Fix them if you need to. Take that into the balance shop to get it balanced. Use the angle iron at first to keep it straight. Obviously once you get enough of it welded you won't need the angle iron to keep it straight. At that point, you can slide the weld so it's over the end, then just use the angle iron as an easy way to hold the DS. I would have the tube spot welded in at least three spots before you go back to do any serious welding on it. Once you have it spot welded, you can hold the weld over the end of the angle iron and roll the DS to ensure it's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's welded up, you'll obviously want to take it to a DS shop to have it balanced (as I stated already). You may want to change out the u-joints while you are busy doing the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20Measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this webpage of a driveline company&lt;/a&gt; which has a ton of information on how to measure (their way), please u-joint identification, and a slew of other stuff. May be of some interest to someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T00:41:34.930" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T00:41:34.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:57:39.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sliding sideways into the dirt on the shoulder could cause a bent rim.  I would have suspected you would be more likely to feel that at about 45mph but if the bend is relatively light, this could be the cause.  Taking the car in for re-balancing would likely find the problem quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15160" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T17:57:39.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27615" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:35:13.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid spraying the carburetor cleaner on plastic or rubber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like carburetor cleaner and want to spray it everything that has oil, dirt or grease on it because it makes it better (cleaner) then I suggest you avoid all contact with plastic or rubber components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wire harness&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;various sensors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rubber mounts &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;windshield wiper blades&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;vacuum lines&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;radiator hoses or any hose for that matter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;plastic covers &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;inside alternator cooling slots&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor cleaner can effect the integrity of plastic and/or rubber components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may want to consider citrus based cleaners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can spray these cleaners everywhere and they are water soluble and can be hosed off once your done scrubbing your engine bay &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; they are more environmentally friendly than your standard petrochemical based carburetor cleaners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T18:35:13.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27639" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:46:16.663" Score="7" ViewCount="85218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my 2006 Prius on a trip and at some point I drove for about 15 miles in unpaved road. The road was not really bumpy but it vibrated the car a little. About 10 miles into the ride in the unpaved road, after I pulled over for a 1 hour stop, I started the car again and all lights and the combination meter (with the speedometer, gas gauge, gear indicator...) were not working. All warning lights were not working also, except the check engine light and the turn lights (other lights like high beam, tire pressure, cruise control would not light up again, even when the car was started when the usually flash for a few seconds). I reversed the car and the rear camera was not working either. The central display was still working though, but the Trip information was not displaying the fuel consumption and the mileage since last refill stayed stuck in 113 miles even though I drove for about 100 miles on the way back from the trip. In the middle of the trip I parked and the car would not power off and the key stayed stuck in the slot. I managed to drive the car back to my house, where it will stay stopped for now, and by chance the power button worked to shut down the Prius this time. I have a few questions related to those events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it all happened at same time, are all those problems related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to force the car to shut down if the power button is not working? Disconnecting the negative terminal the battery will work or this would make any further damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix the combination meter and the power off button?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I used the Torque App with a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter to see the fuel level and mileage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T17:31:15.727" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T13:28:01.753" Title="Prius dash board completely off and engine does not shut down" Tags="|speedometer|ignition-key|prius|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:26:45.683" Score="4" ViewCount="22559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche with a broken brake line. We replaced the broken brake line, added new fluid and bled the brakes for about an hour and there still seems to be air in the lines or something else because the brake pedal still goes to the floor. The brake service engine light comes on every time we release the pressure in the lines.  Is there something else that could be wrong or is this normal to bleed this long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16010" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T21:01:05.953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T21:01:05.953" Title="Replaced busted brake line but the brakes still don't work" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|avalanche|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27635" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:48:51.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are very similar.  I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly.  A couple things that I've learned and have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, install short lines, and have them go back to the reservoir on the master.  Pump until no bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench bleed the ABS. Same as bench bleeding the master.  I didn't try this, but I think it would have really helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close the bleeder, release the pedal.  This will help from air getting trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple methods I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal pump bleeding.  Never quite got it right.  I wasn't closing the bleeders in between pumps though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure bleeding - apply pressure to the master cylinder reservoir to push fluid through.  Might had worked had the top been able to seal well, but it ended up just making a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum bleeding - apply vacuum at the bleeder.  Be sure to use a ton of Teflon tape so you don't suck air from around the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse bleeding - Push fluid from the bleeder back through to the master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up modifying some bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads.  Used a ton of Teflon tape.  Vacuum bleed until I purged the line, reverse bleed, install original bleeder, vacuum bleed until I don't see bubbles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reverse bleeding helps get the bubbles out near the master/abs where there is a long drop.  The bubbles want to go up, and normal methods are trying to push them down.  I might had had good success with bench bleeding the ABS first also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note, at least on my truck, part of the process is to have the dealer run an automated bleed on the ABS system.  This takes a very specific scan tool.  I tried several of my cousin's professional Snap-On scan tools, and they were not able to do the ABS bleed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T20:48:51.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27626" CreationDate="2016-03-28T23:50:39.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no formula or calculations that you could run. Adding an aftermarket supercharger is more of a trial and error versus scientific calculation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason there is no formula or calculation is because there are too many variables to account for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In no particular order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength of the engine including but not limited to crank shaft, connecting rods, piston rings, head gasket, head bolts, intake manifold. Any of these components could be a weak link in the chain and fail. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to add enough fuel. This is generally limited by stock injectors, fuel pressure and fuel volume from pump. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability of the control system to manage the boost. MAF (mass air flow) systems tend to be easier to modify keeping the old computer. Speed density systems require replacing the MAP sensor with one that can sense pressure well. An aftermarket control system may be required. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat of the engine. Adding a supercharger will burn more fuel. More fuel generates more heat. The ability of the engine to reject that heat plays a big role. If the engine is air cooled it may overheat quickly. If it's liquid cooled does it have a water pump and is the radiator large enough. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably other thins that i'm missing and/or forgetting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give is;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a supercharger that fits. This may actually be the biggest challenge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out how your going to control the setup. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly increase the supercharger pulley ratio until you have enough power or something fails. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T23:50:39.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27634" CreationDate="2016-03-29T00:45:20.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms point to a failed Combination Meter. Besides the speedometer, it also controls the power off button and the dashboard lights (except the check engine light). Apparently it can also be rebuilt, but I could not find how is this repair done. There are some eBay ads of people who do it for about $150. It may resume working randomly. To stop the engine, in case it is not stopping properly, holding the power button for 3 seconds may stop it. I just still don't understand on how the backup camera is not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Tried the car this morning and it was working normally, except the fuel gauge that was displaying a level of gas higher than I expect (6 of 8 gallons after driving about 250 miles since last fill). If it keeps failing, I will look more on how to fix the Combination Meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T17:08:56.283" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T17:08:56.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27614" CreationDate="2016-03-29T01:14:54.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There's a procedure to pair your phone&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/OwnersManualVideos.aspx?sort=2&amp;amp;namodelcode=0838&amp;amp;videoguid=9aeda1e8-a3f0-4619-8b21-adc9b8db0ee5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video from BMW&lt;/a&gt; for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cache.bmwusa.com/PDF_97112459-9e53-458e-a82b-24dfa04a2a9e.arox?v=8c4d1799-deca-401e-bcf5-927b076af96e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;owners manual for your vehicle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure involves going to the main menu on your audio device and selecting phone.  The procedure is pretty straightforward from there and detailed in the owners manual starting with pairing your phone on page 187.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PDF is protected so I couldn't copy/paste the list of directions, too much to retype.  I'm sure you have the idea.  Goto page 187 and you should be good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/btw - welcome to the site!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T01:14:54.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27611" CreationDate="2016-03-29T01:28:32.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ethanol % PID is the cars best guess at the ethenol level is in the fuel. This is more common on E85 Vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commanded EGR is what the car wants the EGR valve position to be at, not all cars have electronic EGR valves some are simple vacuum solenoids/diaphragms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happend to run into a truck with an electronic EGR setting a position code.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Xn3J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Xn3J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZcLC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZcLC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T14:03:44.797" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:03:44.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27643" CreationDate="2016-03-29T01:59:40.133" Score="5" ViewCount="20267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to replace my front brake pads within a month. I was told that if my brake wear sensor trips, I will need to buy new sensors as they will get destroyed. So I am trying to save my brake wear sensors by replacing the front brake pads before the sensor actually trips. For that, I am looking for a very rough estimate on how many kilometers I can do before my front brakes wear out by 1mm (this is how much is left before sensor tripping). This is considering mix of city/highway non-aggressive, slow braker style driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car make is a 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:57:49.497" Title="How much distance would 1mm off front brakes translate into?" Tags="|brakes|sensor|audi|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27642" CreationDate="2016-03-29T02:34:38.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's a rough approach that should work regardless of vehicle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;You will need to know&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the current brake pad thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the thickness of a brand new brake pad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much mileage you've put on the car since the last brake pad change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The formula&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mileage per mm = mileage since last brake change&#xA;               / ( brand new thickness - present thickness )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, this formula assumes a linear wear rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;New E39 M5 brake pad thickness = 10 mm&#xA;Old E39 M5 brake pad thickness = 2 mm&#xA;Mileage accrued                = 25,000 km&#xA;&#xA;Mileage per mm = 25,000 km / ( 10 -2 ) mm&#xA;               = 3,125 km per mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can now anticipate roughly when the next brake pad replacement is due before the brake wear sensor trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CS79u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CS79u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E39 M5 Brake Pads - new vs old&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T02:52:51.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T02:52:51.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27648" CreationDate="2016-03-29T03:28:33.083" Score="4" ViewCount="2350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to help out a friend with an intermittent stalling issue, but the OBD Fusion app could not connect to it via my ELM327 Wi-Fi adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The protocol setting was set to &quot;Automatic&quot;, which I believe makes it try the following list of protocols:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1850 PWM (41.6 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1850 VPW (10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 9141-2 (5 baud init, 10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 14320-4 KWP (5 baud init, 10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 14320-4 KWP (fast init, 10.4 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID, 500 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID, 500 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID, 250 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID, 250 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1939 CAN (29 bit ID, 250 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USER1 CAN (11 bit ID, 125 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USER2 CAN (11 bit ID, 50 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what protocol works with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Outlander&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014 Mitsubishi Outlander&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T05:51:56.903" Title="What OBDII protocol does a 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander use?" Tags="|obd-ii|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-29T04:12:30.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is occurring at only a certain speed range it is most likely a wheel out of balance but could also be belt separation.  If you take your vehicle to the location you got the tires many will do balancing for free. If the belts have separated they will know in the spin balance and tell you you need a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16016" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T05:54:35.183" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T05:54:35.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-29T05:30:56.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible underlying problem, i.e, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sloppy rack and pinion. Best to let your mechanic do an inspection for you. Don't agree with dirt or mud if it wasn't vibration before then. Possible weights which was said. At 60mph keep that speed while putting your car into either a higher gear (if available) or a lower gear, keep at 60 mph, if it goes away or changes it will be engine or trans/drivetrain associated problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16019" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T16:22:25.077" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T16:22:25.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27644" CreationDate="2016-03-29T05:51:56.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this is the gas and not the hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine = 2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year = 2014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel = Gas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protocol = CAN 11Bit, 500 baud&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mode 1 = BE3FA813 9017A001 FE108040&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mode 2 = 7E3F8003 00162001 7E108040&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/vehicle-list-compatible-obd2/mitsubishi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's the link&lt;/a&gt; where I retrieved the info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon the link it looks like you would be connecting with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO 15765-4 CAN (11 bit ID, 500 Kbaud)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T05:51:56.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T07:12:07.350" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need your help guys, I bought a brand new Santa Fe 2016 engine 2.4L 4WD Automatic. The problem I am facing is excessive fuel consumption. It is using 15L/100KM of gasoline and it is too much because this size of engine should use only 9.4L/100KM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help guys; I dont know what's going on. Thanks in advance for you responding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16022" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T07:47:47.257" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T08:19:27.513" Title="Brand New Hyundai Santa Fe 2016 2.4 L uses 15 L/100KM" Tags="|hyundai|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27649" CreationDate="2016-03-29T08:19:27.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;15L/100 km is around 15.6 mpg, which is lower than the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/36212.shtml&quot;&gt;19-25 mpg&lt;/a&gt; rating provided by fueleconomy.gov for this Santa Fe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the car is brand new, it should still be under manufacturer warranty. You should have the car inspected by a dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T08:19:27.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27582" CreationDate="2016-03-29T09:51:37.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to have the fuel pump properly bled to get the air out - the three miles you got was probably down to fuel already in the pipes. I would have expected the mechanic who drained the tank to have re-bled the system after refilling...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:51:37.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2016-03-29T12:29:21.657" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Timing belt. My 2002 Honda did same thing. 30$ part bout 2 hours work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16026" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T12:29:21.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18733" CreationDate="2016-03-29T12:40:59.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;have benefitted from the same. for mine I replaced the crankshaft sensor but there has been no change. planning on replacing the rarely faulty camshaft sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T12:40:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25028" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:31:22.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of marking this question answered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sapbucket said &quot;I checked my diagnostic port using Torque and it had only one code: P0868 'low line pressure in the transmission'. I reset the code to see if it would come back again. It hasn't! Nor has my low power issue. So, weirdly enough, this problem solved itself. For example this morning it was 33 degrees F outside (cold), I warmed up my truck for 5 minutes, and at the stop light on the corner I gave it some gas: instant power, no issue at all.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T13:31:22.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:51:20.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steering wheel vibration is caused by many things like brakes, suspension, but i think in your case its certainly your tires. Now 2 things could be happening. &#xA;A)  tires were deformed by the dirt while your car was stopping or B) tires become unbalanced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_balance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia on Tire Balance&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to unbalance, usually increases with speed. Vehicle suspensions can become excited by unbalance forces when the speed of the wheel reaches a point that its rotating frequency equals the suspension’s resonant frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16029" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T16:56:50.493" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:56:50.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27659" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:59:24.077" Score="-1" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had some work done under the hood of a 1999 Toyota Corolla (I believe they did some work trying to repair a gasket leak), and shortly afterward it broke down and would not start. I took it back to them, and they said the camshaft broke on its own and this was not related to the work that they did. I can't trust the mechanic for a whole lot of reasons that would just confuse everyone, so I'm trying to do some research to decide whether I believe him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you assume the mechanic broke your camshaft if your car would not start due to broken camshaft around 30 miles after they repaired a different issue under the hood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16030" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T15:54:26.890" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:54:26.890" Title="Did the mechanic break my camshaft?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|camshaft|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27657" CreationDate="2016-03-29T15:30:08.017" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find the question you are asking here but taking the literal question &quot;Would you assume the mechanic broke your camshaft if your car would not start due to broken camshaft around 30 miles after they repaired a different issue under the hood?&quot; my answer would be &quot;No.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a camshaft were broken by a mechanic or anyone else, the car would not be capable of traveling 30 miles under it's own power.  A camshaft is a piece of cast metal.  I have seen them break where latent casting faults have come to light but the only reason I can think of that could be introduced by a mechanic would be either lack of oil or over tightening of a camshaft bearing cap.  Assuming that the work they did was unrelated to the camshaft, unless they introduced a massive oil leak, I don't see how they could have caused the camshaft to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to remove the rocker box and visually inspect the camshaft to establish the exact point at which it has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of interest, which gasket was it that they were trying to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:30:08.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27642" CreationDate="2016-03-29T15:57:49.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can see, if you opt for the Pagid, Bosch, Brembo or ATE front pads for this vehicle, the wear sensor is included in the box.  It is also available separately with a UK retail price of the equivalent of less than 20 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked with the supplier of your new pads to establish if the sensor is included or not?  Wear sensors are sacrificial components that are both cheap and easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how long your pads will last before you trip the sensor, this is impossible to gauge.  You may, driving gently and allowing the car to coast, get several months use.  You may however find that a single piece of evasive action taken at highway speeds is enough to trip your sensor.  The S4 is a fiercely quick car and relatively heavy too so it would be possible to burn up a brand new set of pads in a single afternoons track use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:57:49.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:00:06.837" Score="2" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on an '05 Honda Civic. I replaced the steering column but now it has a different key. How do I reprogram the immobilizer system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16035" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T21:45:55.537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:45:55.537" Title="How do I reprogram an immobilizer system on a 2005 Honda Civic?" Tags="|honda|civic|immobilizer|reprogram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27670" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:02:28.130" Score="7" ViewCount="18805" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've all seen them, bulbs advertised as brighter than the rest, sold under big names such as &lt;em&gt;Philips&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Osram&lt;/em&gt;. The flag is carried by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osram.com/osram_com/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-performance-lamps-full-power-of-light-for-your-vehicle/night-breaker-unlimited-product-details/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Osram Night Breaker Unlimited&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usa.philips.com/c-m-li/x-tremevision&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Philips X-treme Vision&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Information floating around online tells us these bulbs simply have thinner filaments. They apparently illuminate the road better at the expense of a shorter lifetime (often significantly) and a price a of a few lower end bulb sets. Numbers are usually advertised in percentages - +110%, +130%, etc. more light than some &quot;standard bulb&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a peek at the datasheets of &lt;em&gt;Osram&lt;/em&gt; lights tells us something else - the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osram.com/appsinfo/pdc/pdf.do?cid=GPS01_1090035&amp;amp;mpid=ZMP_1080591&amp;amp;vid=PP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat&amp;amp;lid=EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Osram Night Breaker&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; H7 bulb actually has the same luminous flux (1500lm) as the regular &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osram.com/appsinfo/pdc/pdf.do?cid=GPS01_1057023&amp;amp;mpid=ZMP_61232&amp;amp;vid=PP_EUROPE_Europe_eCat&amp;amp;lid=EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Osram Original&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; H7 bulb. At the same time reviews online state otherwise, most buyers are happy with the extra illumination provided. Couldn't find datasheets for &lt;em&gt;Philips&lt;/em&gt; bulbs, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xtreme-vision-130-h7-twin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of their official retailers&lt;/a&gt; advertise the same information - 1500lm for all &lt;em&gt;Philips&lt;/em&gt; H7 bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what gives, how do manufacturers make their bulbs illuminate the road better if the luminous flux is identical? Are the high brightness money sinks worth buying at all or maybe this is just a huge scam to sell some shorter lifetime bulbs at outrageous prices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight into this topic is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/R037r7e.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ECE Regulation 37&lt;/a&gt; all H7 bulbs should have a luminous flux of ~1500lm. As I understand bulb manufacturers must conform to this standard, so the figures are correct. Then the question is how do they make their bulbs illuminate the road better without increasing the luminous flux? Do they at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T10:30:08.687" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T12:50:37.943" Title="Are expensive high-brightness 55W headlight bulbs worth the investment?" Tags="|headlight|bulbs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27608" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:08:59.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to the first bullet. The roll of the CV or constant velocity joint is to enable movement with independent suspension. As the geometry changes (when you hit a bump), the wheel moves up. If the axle were solid, this would be unable to happen. The CV joint allows for the movement of the suspension. I guess you could think of it like a swivel socket. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   As far as replacement of the joint, if you want to do it yourself Autozone or O'Reilly's (most autoparts houses) loan tools for free, including axle nuts. Obviously, you will need a jack and jack stands. Hopefully you have an impact gun, that would make the job that much quicker. Otherwise, I would plan an afternoon. With pneumatics I can do this job in 20 minutes. Also, I would replace the entire axle as it makes the job much simpler and straight forward. I'm not exactly sure what size sockets you will need, but you will need a breaker bar for the axle nut and a hammer to separate the ball joints. Things to look out for would be damaging the break line or ABS wire if equipped. That could happen if you just let the knuckle dangle after separating the ball joints, so you may want to make sure that doesn't happen. I personally use zip ties and tie the knuckle up to the upper control arm.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All in all it's a very simple job and good one to do as it will give you good experience with hand tools. Difficulty rating from 1 - 10, I would give it a 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15848" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:08:59.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27665" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:18:37.380" Score="1" ViewCount="5247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2014 Kia Rio 1.6l engine with direct injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at 22000km and considering using this intake cleaning product that gets sprayed into the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains high concentrations of the detergent Polyether amine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did a fresh oil change though, and I am curious if this could potentially soil or diminish the quality of my oil to any degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the website directions they mention nothing about doing an oil change after, but I want to be completely sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any potential for this intake cleaning product to contaminate the oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16037" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:25:14.637" Title="GDI intake cleaning before or after oil change?" Tags="|engine|kia|fuel-injection|intake-manifold|gasoline-direct-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27664" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:25:14.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake valves sit in the path of the intake air. The only oil it is supposed to see is whatever is routed back to the intake tract via crankcase ventilation, which will be combusted and sent through the exhaust anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:25:14.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27669" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:32:25.280" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brothers car has had a windshield chip for over a year now, probably closer to a year and half.&#xA;Says it hasn't grown any, so if it's existed this long then is it something to worry about still or should it be fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16038" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T06:36:40.517" Title="Old windshield chip" Tags="|windshield|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27667" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:43:48.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one car with a chip that is pushing 5 or 6 years. Its a risk, the car is not used much, but you can see it going at any time. For the way glass is the &quot;shape&quot; of the chip might have some influence in spreading or not but as a general rule it can develop into a long crack even after years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:43:48.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27667" CreationDate="2016-03-29T16:48:38.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;probably nothing to worry about but....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The integrity of the windshield is compromised.  The chip in the nice smooth surface creates a point of failure.  The chip is the weakest link in the chain, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under these circumstances you could lean against the windshield and the force could start 'that crack' which spreads across it in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower cost solution to replacing the windshield could be a chip repair.  Most windshield retailers have the additional service of placing a vacuum on the chip to suck the air out of the crack and then use a glue or resin to fill the crack.  As the vacuum is removed and the chip area is pulling atmosphere into the crack it, instead, pulls in the resin, filling the tiny cracks and adding integrity to the windshield surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=windshield%20crack%20repair&amp;amp;oq=windshield%20crack%20&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.3775j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=windshield%20chip%20repair%20kit%20diy&quot;&gt;DIY chip repair kits&lt;/a&gt;.  You would want to select one with a hand vacuum tool or pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, you could have a service do the work for additional cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T16:48:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27662" CreationDate="2016-03-29T17:31:45.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, a car headlight will have a certain amount of lumens produced but that's not what you see. What you actually see its the brightness of that light (lux) which basically is the intensity of light relative to the projected area from a surface. Its a bit weird to explain because even if you read the classic definitions they all seem the same thing. To put it in practice lets say you are in a garage with dimmable lights, you turn ambient light down and turn on your headlights, then you slowly raise the room light and the beam that was visible in the dark at one point slowly disappears. The headlight is still producing the same amount of lumens but for your eye it will be harder to perceive its illuminance because its being drowned by the ambient light. Now if you were to fit one headlight with the &lt;em&gt;OsramOriginal&lt;/em&gt; and one with the &lt;em&gt;NightBreaker&lt;/em&gt;, theory says that you should be able to distinguish the latter even when the ambient light has drowned the first because of an higher lux.&#xA;The color has is impact too as a &quot;whiter&quot; bulb will give more lux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left a picture from the net just for some visual comparison between beam of different lights. Another I had in the answer I deleted as it seemed to me just a marketing doctored image, like a lot of the images I considered, others would have been a pain to add here. What I was looking for was an actual controlled test of a few different bulbs with proper measurements, maybe from an automotive magazine, but up to now I have not found it. The closest I found is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.which.co.uk/cars/driving/sat-navs-and-car-accessories/best-car-headlight-bulbs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.which.co.uk/cars/driving/sat-navs-and-car-accessories/best-car-headlight-bulbs/&lt;/a&gt; but while they mention how the test was performed it appears they publish the results but not the measurements proper which would be the actual useful part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DCa2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DCa2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Before deciding to go with a brighter bulb one should first check that the light beam is projected where is useful and that the existing bulb isn't old and tired and that the headlight glass isn't all oxidized and fogged up. So users reviews often are a bit of a hit and miss as indication if you don't know how they were driving before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I always have the impression that with the brighter bulbs I can see less of whats outside the light beam and I don't like them. Others I know instead have as much light as a spaceship in front of them and would still go brighter if they could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word on &lt;strong&gt;regulations&lt;/strong&gt;: if you look at how an headlight is designed not all the light is directed towards the road, the whole beam is designed so a certain percentage of light is thrown higher up. If a light is above limits then even the amount of light high up increases becoming dangerous for the others on the road. Headlights that were designed for Xenon bulbs for example would throw the extra on the road but the amount of light higher up is the same than the conventional lights (legal) they often have an automatic regulation of the tilt depending on the load for the same reason. In some countries you can have a car born with Xenon headlights and they are perfectly legal even if above the general Lumens indication because they are designed to throw the light in the right way and they are self-leveling, while any aftermarket kit is considered illegal. So even there Lumens don't tell the whole story. (And, beside everything, some bulbs rated at very high lumens waste so much heat that can actually damage plastic headlights apparently)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, to try to explain things further:&#xA;When you measure the power of a light source you have various ways to measure the light that is emitted by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to express that is the Candela which basically is the amount of light emitted in a tridimensional area. It doesn't care about distance from the light source or how wide is the area illuminated. The angle used is a steradian which is the way solid angles are measured and in practice covers an area of 1m2 on a sphere of 1metre radius, A full sphere has an angle of 4π steradians (and at the end its just a fancy concept we don't care about since we wont have to do any calculation when buying a lightbulb)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have the Watts that are what people is most familiar with and it was how we expressed the power of the old house light bulbs. Watts in itself mean little as it is the amount of energy required to emit a certain amount of light and now that there are different choices from the old plain household incandescent bulb, efficiency has increased so the energy used is less related to the light produced. That's why now Lumens are something we use more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lumen is the light flux a certain source emits. As such if you take a flood light and you put a reflector that narrows its beam you end bringing (reflecting) more light in a narrower cone increasing its flux instead of wasting it in directions you are not interested in. It does relate to the angle of the beam produced and as so its basically becomes a measurement of how many Candela are thrown within a certain angle and so its measured by multiplying the Candela of a light by the angle in steradians. So 1lumen = 1 candela steradian, it doesnt matter the distance its measured at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you have the Luminance and the Lux, these are the measure of the light emitted, for the former, or reflected, for the latter, by a surface. Since we don't actually perceive the light moving through the air but we are aware of light as a reflection by everything that surrounds us, these are more related to the light brightness we actually see. These measurement actually take distance in account, they don't care of the angle of a cone of light or its intensity per se, If you want you can consider them as a measure of the results of all the defined above as they will indicate how illuminated the target surface is and its what changes when we say that one headlight is brighter than the other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone wants to spend a couple semiboring hours some more in-dept explanation can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intl-lighttech.com/support/measurement-geometries-chapter-7-light-measurement-tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.intl-lighttech.com/support/measurement-geometries-chapter-7-light-measurement-tutorial&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T18:33:57.060" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T18:33:57.060" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27667" CreationDate="2016-03-29T17:36:25.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about other countries, but in the US, windshield replacements are covered by insurance at no cost, and with no increase to your insurance rates. (Note: I have comprehensive coverage, so this may not be true for liability coverage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I though otherwise, until a month after buying my new (used) car, I had two windshields replaced in a two week span, as I happened to get a chip on the freeway that perpetrated into a crack due to the high temperature fluctuations we were experiencing at the time. I asked my agent if my rates would go up and he was happy to dispel the urban myth that windshield replacements will spike your insurance rates.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T17:36:25.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27683" CreationDate="2016-03-29T17:37:43.927" Score="6" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm researching getting a Ford C-Max Energi. It fits well with my commute range (approximately 20 miles a day). I understand that after the battery is depleted, a conventional motor kicks on and drive me the rest of the way. Based on my commute times, The conventional motor will only kick on for about 5-10% of my daily driving. Somehow I doubt this means that I will be able to get away with extending my regular oil change interval by 10-20 times it's regular length, as a 30,000 mile oil change interval seems unrealistic in the best circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can someone who knows how this is calculated explain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:45:48.333" Title="How do hybrid's with all-electric mode typically handle oil changes?" Tags="|oil|oil-change|hybrid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T17:51:58.353" Score="3" ViewCount="6519" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 08 xc70 is showing an image of a steering and pad lock, car won't start, what can I do?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16039" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:46:46.887" LastActivityDate="2019-11-30T18:45:22.967" Title="My 2008 Volvo xc70 dashboard shows steering wheel locked, car will not start, what can I do?" Tags="|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27662" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:03:05.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think there might be a regulatory component that effects stated brightness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.108&quot;&gt;CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) 49&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The maximum wattage at 12.8 volts (design voltage): 65 watts on upper beam, and 55 watts on lower beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT...there are some caveats to this related to headlamp type and additional components to the commercial regulations which takes into account lumens which the non-commercial regulations do not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I believe the stated brightness component of advertising may be a bit misleading as the verbiage could not reflect deviation from regulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Value&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I place a lot of value in creating a bright landscape before me.  Albeit I may be a little bit more concerned as I ride a motorcycle in rural areas frequently and being able to see a deer or other large herbivore ahead of me can have lasting consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically use offroad H7's in my motorcycle that do not need to conform to regulatory standards.  Perhaps I shouldn't admit to breaking Federal law here but consequences be damned, I do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done HID lamps, I'm not happy with the ballast setup and find the whole system klugy, I don't use them anymore.  I found reliability to be a factor.  Perhaps it was my installations that were poor, I have to take that into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu1oD7c3Sus&quot;&gt;video comparison (a little cheesy) between 80w and 65w off road bulbs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=38792&quot;&gt;these offroad bulbs&lt;/a&gt; and have been happy with them on my MC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I know I didn't answer the question really but I liked sharing the info&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helpful in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T18:03:05.643" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:34:43.417" Score="8" ViewCount="12331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a vehicle couple of weeks ago. I checked the transmission fluid today, and noticed it was black. Should I be worried and immediately go change it? Part of me wants to get it changed since I have general rule of thumb to change fluids in vehicle I bought, and I am hoping that changing the fluid it will help with the transmission going into gear. I still need to warm it up, and see where the proper level is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hearing mixed things on why not to change the transmission fluid, and some cases that I should change the transmission fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should I change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 1991 Ford Explorer XLT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13964" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T22:45:39.687" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T03:18:26.970" Title="Should I change transmission fluid if it's black?" Tags="|ford|transmission|explorer|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27675" CreationDate="2016-03-29T19:01:36.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rough or slow gear engagement (as mentioned in the comments) could indicate that the shift solenoids are having trouble actuating due to the dirty fluid. As racefever suggested, you should change the filter, but other than having to buy new fluid, I &lt;em&gt;personally&lt;/em&gt; don't see any reason not to change the fluid at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go ahead and change the transmission fluid &amp;amp; filter, even though it doesn't seem to be posing a problem at the moment. I've heard/read the same things that changing old fluid can dislodge debris and leave you worse off than you previously were. While I have never personally run into that problem when changing fluids for friends/family, it wouldn't have become a common concern if it never happened in the first place. As such, you assume an inherent risk when choosing to replace the fluid on a high mileage vehicle, but I am of the belief that if you do your research, have the right tools, take your time, and get the job done right (or find a shop that cares), it will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attribute 'dislodged gunk' failures to quickly-lube style oil change garages screwing something up in the change/flush process, or using it as an excuse to cover their butts for more obvious oversights (ie replacing with used/improper fluid, filling to wrong level, not removing/cleaning the pan, using old/improper gaskets, forgetting to refill fluid entirely, under/over tightening the drain plug).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T14:23:36.710" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:23:36.710" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T19:35:31.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS, and my check engine light came on because of a failure to purge code. I took off the canister purge valve and immediately thought I had misidentified it, because there was coolant fluid in the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the diagrams and verified I had the correct part.  I put a 9-volt battery on the leads, and sure enough, it would not open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the new valve, which works fine with the 9-volt test, but I'm a little concerned I have a larger problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would there be coolant fluid there? It's not even close to any of the manifold sections through which the coolant runs. Plus, it's on the canister side, not the release side. Could it just be bad gas that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; like coolant fluid (I didn't taste test it, but it is green :)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16041" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T19:35:31.743" Title="Coolant fluid in canister purge valve line" Tags="|hyundai|evap|santa-fe|purge-solenoid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27661" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:37:43.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have the car towed to a dealer or a shop with the Honda HDS software. AFAIK There is no scantool-less method to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:37:43.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27686" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:37:50.597" Score="5" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a driveline component with a rubber shock absorption ring in it.  It sits between the tranny and driveshaft.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot remember the name of this component.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know the name of this device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16043" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T04:33:27.807" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T04:33:27.807" Title="Identify that part of my S56 BMW M Coupe" Tags="|bmw|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27672" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:45:48.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As race fever indicated, many modern cars, and all hybrids, will record how many hours the ICE (internal combustion engine) has been running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the Ford C-max, along with most other hybrids, pass this clock into an 'oil life indicator' (should have called it Oil Indicator of Life, or OIL for short!), which calculates and displays an alert for when you should change the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The indicator is based on factors such as ICE run time, and time since last oil change (meaning it would still recommend oil changes if the ICE is never started, because oil will degrade over time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:45:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27682" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:49:59.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you referring to the Driveshaft FlexDisc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfUQc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfUQc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:49:59.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T23:15:17.510" Score="10" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fear that this question might be bordering on opinion based so sorry about that if it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking for cars one of the primary indicators that people seem to use when trying to determine the condition of the vehicle is the distance it has travelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to me that this only gives limited information about certain components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Revolutions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large amount of the components which wear over time in a car spin, in some cases there is a linear relationship (or near enough) between how many times something has spun and the distance the car has travelled, for example wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are some components where there is not a constant linear relationship between revolutions and distance the car has travelled, the biggest example I can think of here being the engine. Due to gearing the speed of the engine will not maintain a constant linear relationship with the distance the car has travelled. An engine which has done 100k miles of motorway driving is going to have spun a lot less than an engine which has done 100k miles of urban driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Energy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kinetic energy is proportional to the square of the speed, if the engine spins 100 times at 1000rpm the energy involved is less than if it spins 100 times at 2000rpm. High school physics will tell you that the factor here isn't 2 but is in fact 4. So we have identified a flaw with just measuring the number of revolutions, it depends on how quickly something is spinning. Measuring the work done (by effectively integrating the energy usage over time) seems to me like it would be a good indicator of how used a component is. The one advantage I can think of here is that taking a part well outside it's operating range (for example by spinning it much faster than it was designed to be) can significantly decrease it's working life but would not have a significant impact on this metric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Questions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I should probably actually ask some questions as part of this post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why do we use distance as one of the main indicators to signify the condition of a vehicle? Should we be using any other information in conjunction with this when trying to determine the condition of components on the car?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other metrics are commonly used to indicate wear of certain components?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T22:25:48.493" Title="Why use distance to indicate the usage of an engine" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27682" CreationDate="2016-03-30T00:06:47.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most BMW owners call them a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bavauto.com/14113/bmw-how-to-properly-install-driveshaft-flex-disc-giubo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giubo&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. I have no idea where that comes from or why, but you'll find it very easily by Googling it by that name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T00:06:47.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27593" CreationDate="2016-03-30T00:56:58.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's fuel starvation.  Common with carbs and gravity feed.  Your enfield has a vacuum petcock.  If cleaning fuel filters doesn't work try another Percocet setting.  You may have off, on, reserve.   Or you might have a 'prime' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a prime setting try switching to that.  It doesn't use the vacuum to allow fuel to flow.  Try driving on that setting.  If it solves the problem then you either have a bad petcock diaphragm or a vacuum leak on the vacuum line from your manifold to the petcock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16043" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T00:56:58.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T01:03:34.013" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently had a fuel/air control part replaced in my 1998 Mazda Familia. That was done after replacing plugs, etc. The problem it had was it was sacking really hard but going nowhere, once I got past 1st gear it was a bit better. When the part was replaced it was better for about a week. I filled the tank and from then on it started doing the same thing but not as bad. I noticed that as my fuel tank got lower the car started to run better. It is now 1/2 full and only has a little hesitation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can a full tank of gas cause these problems? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16048" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T23:08:40.173" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T23:08:40.173" Title="Mazda Familia - Hesitation with full fuel tank, gets better as fuel level drops" Tags="|fuel-system|mazda|fuel-tank|hesitation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T03:05:28.283" Score="2" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2005 Mercedes benz c320 at an auction and when I went to pick it up, I was informed that it did not come with a FOB due to the fact that the previous owner had not turned it in when the car was appropriated by the insurance. When I got home with it I went to my local dealer and they were asking $460 for a new one which is a bit out of my budget for now, so I went ahead and purchased a brand new aftermarket FOB on eBay and I am now wondering if it can be programmed to the car? Any help will be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16051" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T17:59:49.200" Title="Can I program a new aftermarket FOB for 2005 Mercedes benz c320?" Tags="|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2016-03-30T03:21:17.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't bring a steak to steak house. There are liability laws in California which would kill the small shop that is doing it by the book. After you pay your overhead and technicians and workman comp insurance, and this permit and that permit you have about $ 22.00 remaining. That is why you charge a fair markup for the part...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16050" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T23:56:41.113" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T23:56:41.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37672" CreationDate="2016-03-30T06:00:21.780" Score="8" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Yamaha TRX850.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open the throttle I'm hearing a thud knock sound near the left crankshaft cover. That sound does not always appears and I can't find any correlation between appearances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch and speed of opening the throttle didn't affect that sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, the engine works perfectly well and has never been opened since 1997. I have changed the oil and antifreeze recently and seems like the motorcycle in a very good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that OK for a TRX?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what should I check to get rid of that sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it would be better to not open the engine if it works well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound appears only once in the beginning of a process of opening the throttle. So the flow is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;engine idle working -&amp;gt; beginning of opening the throttle -&amp;gt; BANG -&amp;gt; continue the process of opening the throttle (no thud knocks further)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thud knock sound happens simultaneously with the roar of the engine only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound is very similar to the sound of smashing two heavy steel hammers together except it more thud.&#xA;I discovered it only after the 4 months of owning. It's not so easy to hear because of the engine's roar. Only if trying to hear it specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/55omtvm9bpccy5e/20160419_175448.mp4?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/55omtvm9bpccy5e/20160419_175448.mp4?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sound appears on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0:10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0:40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0:56&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you will recognize it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6916" LastEditorUserId="6916" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T12:33:21.700" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T08:32:51.613" Title="Once-only thud knock when open throttle" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T06:11:17.103" Score="4" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Peugeot 207 convertible from 2007 shows an error when trying to lower the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Impossible to move roof: outside temperature too low&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual it should be functioning down to -15 degrees and when I got the error messsage it was +9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Anyone seen this before?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Know of a simple solution?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZW5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZW5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&#xA;/patrik&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16054" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T06:23:14.203" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T06:23:14.203" Title="Peugeot 207 convertible: &quot;impossible to move roof: outside temperature too low&quot;" Tags="|sensor|peugeot|temperature|sunroof|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27786" CreationDate="2016-03-30T06:16:03.387" Score="7" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyundai Sonata 2000&#xA;150,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started getting a noise in the engine that I would describe as &quot;light&quot;, and &quot;enginey&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video with sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vid.me/9gkr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://vid.me/9gkr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound becomes more frequent as the RPM increases. So it probably has to do with some rotational portion of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I'm not sure if this is relevant, but the airbag light came on a few weeks before this started happening. I think the air escaped probably. Again, not sure if this has anything to do with the engine sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;an interesting post about hydraulic valves, oil changes, low oil or leak, and dirty oil &lt;a href=&quot;http://ask.metafilter.com/248194/Can-I-drive-my-car-if-the-engine-has-Hydraulic-Lifter-Ticking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ask.metafilter.com/248194/Can-I-drive-my-car-if-the-engine-has-Hydraulic-Lifter-Ticking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out my engine oil was super low. The dip stick didn't even read anything. I put half a quart of whatever I had left in, and it still didn't read on the dipstick. I can't recall if the engine temperature reading went significantly above that &quot;50%&quot; mark while I was driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's tapping because the oil is just low? But why would it get so low suddenly? There must be a leak. Hopefully not a head gasket/plenum leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9146" LastEditorUserId="9146" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T06:31:08.173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:48:44.443" Title="Weird &quot;old&quot;-sounding engine noise. What's the problem?" Tags="|engine|noise|hyundai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36658" CreationDate="2016-03-30T08:23:54.760" Score="3" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a 2006 Volvo S60 T5 with 136,xxx miles. Like many mid-2000s Volvo's with the AW-55 transmission, it has succumbed to shift flares at 1-2 and 2-3. It is light but I would like to be control the damage. I have still yet to replace the transmission fluid or check to see if the latest software update has been applied, so these things may alleviate the problem. I have however discovered that the vehicle has a Winter mode option that starts the transmission in 3rd gear, which avoids the shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 and is much smoother. Other than slowing acceleration and hurting fuel economy, can any damage be done by constantly using this Winter mode? (I am still planning on having the other services done)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16056" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T18:14:54.557" Title="Volvo AW55 W mode hard shift avoidance" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27694" CreationDate="2016-03-30T08:32:07.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;it sounds like valves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your valves are at the top of the motor under the black cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are reciprocating devices, they move in and out and are operated by a camshaft that is spinning at half the RPM of the crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your cam rides on top of a tappet or 'bucket' the clearance between the cam and the tappet/bucket can increase or decrease over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clearence increases too much you can here a ticking noise as the cam comes around and slaps the top of the tappet/bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OB2m7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OB2m7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;get your valves adjusted&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clearance increased too much.  The sound is the cam lobe hitting the tappet.  This is normal engine maintenance.  It's called a 'valve adjustment'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T08:32:07.507" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T10:08:08.300" Score="2" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently when I drive I noticed this noise which tends to come around 2000rpm. Going through the gears I can't hear anything through first and second, then it starts in this rev band through 3rd and especially 4th at lower speeds say 35mph-45mph. I looked under the car at the muffler to see if there was a hole under it but it looks sound. Any idea what might be causing the problem? Its not got any worse. I drive about 40 miles in it per day. It is a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13122" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:02:03.930" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:56:53.110" Title="Muted howling noise at about 2000rpm Nissan Micra K12 2005" Tags="|nissan|noise|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27694" CreationDate="2016-03-30T10:32:03.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @DucatiKiller is most likely correct, there is another possible reason for this noise, that being a leaking exhaust manifold. If the exhaust manifold is leaking at the head, it will make an almost indistinguishable noise from that of the tappets. It too rises and falls with engine RPM, just like tappet noise. It comes from the same basic location (head area) as the tappet noise. It is at least something to check out, but looking at your video the Hyundai engine's exhaust manifold looks to be at the back of the engine (well covered up). What you'd be looking for is black soot (carbon tracking) around the exhaust manifold at the head. This condition will also cause the vehicle to attain less fuel mileage due to improper O2 sensor readings (false lean reading due to fresh air being brought in at these leaking areas). Before you tear or have the top end torn apart, you'll want to double check these gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I just realized your Sonata has a V6, which means it has exhaust manifolds on both the front and the back of the engine. I guess I'm just pointing out the obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T11:04:09.617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T11:04:09.617" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27662" CreationDate="2016-03-30T10:41:57.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keeping your headlights clean seems like a better investment. Even a thin layer of dirt (salt spray seems particularly bad) both blocks light and scatters it away from the road (possibly into other drivers' eyes). If you don't wipe the crud off your headlights you're wasting your money of the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an idea of how quickly it builds up: I've got better things to do than clean my car frequently, but winter commuting on damp salted roads meant I was wiping the lenses every couple of &lt;em&gt;days&lt;/em&gt; (~50 miles) on an old commute for a noticeable effect on the light levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T10:41:57.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T11:00:50.960" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to create a few improvements for a FK3 Civic, such as:&#xA;- automatic door locking&#xA;- automatic cornering lights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those, I need to be able to read few parameters from the car's computers:&#xA;- current speed&#xA;- steering wheel angle&#xA;- current gear&#xA;- headlights status&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched quite a bit, but it seems that nobody knows how to interface Civic Mk8 computers (save for OBD-II mandated information, which includes speed, but not steering wheel angle or headlights status).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any information on how to access that available somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16059" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T11:00:50.960" Title="Honda Civic Mk8 FK3 interfacing with ECU/body computer" Tags="|honda|civic|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27703" CreationDate="2016-03-30T11:34:59.210" Score="2" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mazda 323F  (some say it is Protégé but not sure) AT 1.6L (at 128K km).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It runs smooth, accelerates great and shifts nice on most occasions.&lt;Br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are times after running for a while, it stalls at intersections and/or when coming to a stop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I read some forums and also one of our own: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3222/car-stalls-when-coming-to-a-stop&quot;&gt;Car Stalling&lt;/a&gt; (but I think it is not related).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the story short, my research points me to the ATF level, checked it and it is fine. Kinda overfill though based on the markings but not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it points me to checking the EGR (I don't know if my car have that, I will check it tomorrow - I read that some 1.6 AT have no EGR) and more research points me to the Catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go nuts on what to do first, I remembered you guys.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So please, if anyone of you had experienced this in your Mazda's please share your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:10:53.400" Title="Car stalls on intersection or when coming to a stop" Tags="|mazda|catalytic-converter|egr|mazda-323f|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:07:17.310" Score="6" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I accurately measure a vehicles wheel bolt pattern, regardless if it is a car or truck? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are any special tools needed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a certain process to measuring a pattern?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T13:24:56.267" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:57:58.187" Title="How to measure a vehicles wheel bolt pattern?" Tags="|wheels|measurement|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27701" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:10:53.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that this is caused by one of two things although it could be a few more.  It is most likely a sticky ISV.  The ISV or Idle Stabilization Valve is responsible for allowing just enough air through the engine to keep it running when the throttle pedal is being pressed.  If this is faulty, the car will run perfectly until you take your foot off the throttle.  If you can locate it in your engine, you can attempt to clean it with some fuel system cleaning spray available cheaply from most motorfactors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ISV is working fine then my money would be on a failed temperature sensor.  This could be failing to tell the cars ECU (engine control unit) that the engine is hot.  A hot engine requires a difference mixture of fuel to continue to run correctly so if this is getting a false temperature reading, it could have problems determining the right amount of fuel to supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's neither of these things then it could conceivably be a vacuum leak caused by a split pipe or perished rubber seal somewhere on the inlet side of the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cleaning the ISV doesn't have the desired affect, have someone with a fault code reader scan the car for faults.  This will take all of the guesswork out of diagnosing the fault as they ought to tell you exactly where the problem lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:10:53.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27702" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:15:53.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PCD or Pitch Circle Diameter is typically given as a number multiplied by another number.  The first number is the number of bolts, nuts or studs and these can be simply counted.  The second number is the diameter of a circle which has a central point in the centre of the hub and whose outside line goes through the centre of each bolt hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is therefore possible, using a simple ruler, to calculate the PCD using little more than a ruler and the conversion tables shown at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/PCD_Calculation.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; useful link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T13:15:53.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T13:24:19.120" Score="6" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I require to vary the boost pressure with respect to an increase or decrease of throttle (engine rpm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: The supercharger is electrically driven (motor) and not by engine crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16006" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T06:04:19.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:04:19.880" Title="Do I need to worry about varying boost pressure when installing an electric supercharger?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|super-charger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="24" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27690" CreationDate="2016-03-30T14:05:23.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you can not.   It does not work like a lot of vehicles where you leave keys in ignition for x minutes then do the hokey pokey.    If there is any sort of anti theft the key has to be programmed.   Of course it's a blank key so it first had to become the right key.  Programming varies even on the same make and model from year to year.    There are professional locksmiths who can make an auto key for you. It's pricey but when you need it.   The cost is marginal.   On the matter of a Mercedes.   You can have them attempt to use your purchased fob but I don't know if it will work.   But no it takes the dealer to program a Mercedes key  the key and the vin number and anti theft system are intrinsically linked and is only done so by the dealer.    Call again to the Benz dealer. Give them ur vin. Bust out the pocket book and enjoy what is to be a gem of a Benz &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16061" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:05:23.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:50:05.250" Score="13" ViewCount="16105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '05 4.7L Dodge Dakota that has had an issue with rough idle for over a year now. It seems to only happen after coming to a stop at a traffic light. It seems to happen more often after having driven a long distance but occasionally occurs during shorter trips. The behavior is basically that the RPMs drop to around 500 and it acts like it might stall but doesn't. If I put it in neutral or park the idle returns to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had very sporadic behavior where the engine just dies completely. This doesn't seem to coincide with the rough idle but it might be related. I've also had it seem to just lose power while driving slowly after starting up and then behave normally after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've changed the spark plugs, replaced the O2, TPS &amp;amp; MAP sensors and the IAC valve. I finally got the bright idea to get a data logger and see if I can get some better insight into what is going on. It happened today while I was logging and it looks like the voltage on all four O2 sensors goes to zero at the same time that the RPMs dip down to ~500. The only other obvious thing I noticed is a jump in the intake manifold absolute pressure as the rpms drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a google spreadsheet with the sensor data for the trip: &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/2Uuq9u&quot;&gt;https://goo.gl/2Uuq9u&lt;/a&gt;. The data of interest is around row 750 (1226 seconds into the trip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone help on figuring out what might be going on would be awesome. I'm wondering if perhaps the problem is fuel pressure related (the data logger doesn't seem to be able to measure that). On another forum, there were several suggestions that the transmission might be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T16:12:37.323" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T12:34:42.743" Title="Rough idle @ stoplights - O2 sensors reading zero voltage" Tags="|rough-idle|stall|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27716" CreationDate="2016-03-30T17:00:35.010" Score="15" ViewCount="6667" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything functionally equivalent to a turbo for electric motors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I am not asking for something that reuses exhaust gases to force in more air, because there are no exhaust gases nor the need for air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am asking is if there is something that can use &quot;waste energy&quot; to give an &lt;strong&gt;IMMEDIATE POWER BOOST&lt;/strong&gt; to an electric motor, which is what the turbo of combustion engines do, in functional terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9367" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:38:15.173" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:38:15.173" Title="Turbo equivalent on electric motors" Tags="|motors|electric-vehicle|turbocharger|theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-03-30T17:22:05.847" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;regenerative braking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question and answer regarding the subject matter has some very good information in it as well the answer reveals a mathematical paradox with regenerative braking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24499/what-is-regenerative-braking-and-why-dont-we-use-it&quot;&gt;What is regenerative braking and why don&amp;#39;t we use it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Q&amp;amp;A is a bit off your topic but has breadcrumbs regarding recapturing lost energy through a turbo to charge a batter and kinetic energy recovery through braking in Formula 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23859/why-no-exhaust-gas-turbine-generator-in-hybrid-vehicles/23877#23877&quot;&gt;Why no exhaust gas turbine generator in hybrid vehicles?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T18:07:15.397" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19318" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:10:06.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Honda 1994 Accord, and have some vibration in the pedal and some vehicle vibration right at the point the clutch begins to bite. I have never had any issues because of this. I installed the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel myself with the guidance of an ASE certified mechanic. About 5,000+/-1k later and all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16065" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T18:10:06.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T18:39:02.850" Score="2" ViewCount="4414" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Jeep Commander continues to blow hot air even when the switch is turned completely off. Has anyone had this problem before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem description from OPs 'answer' below:&#xA;&quot;If I turn the fan switch on and then set the heat temperature to a warmer or hotter setting, I get warm or hot air as desired. However, when the fan switch is turned off, very warm or hot air continues to blow through all vents even when the heater switch is turned completely off. It feels as though the fan is still running on a very low setting even when the switch is turned off. In order to get the hot air from continuing to flow, I have to turn the fan switch back on AND set the air conditioning switch on to get cooler air to flow through the vents. The fan will still continue to now blow cooler air through even though the fan switch is turned completely off.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the fan switch on and then set the heat temperature to a warmer or hotter setting, I get warm or hot air as desired. However, when the fan switch is turned off, very warm or hot air continues to blow through all vents even when the heater switch is turned completely off. It feels as though the fan is still running on a very low setting even when the switch is turned off. In order to get the hot air from continuing to flow, I have to turn the fan switch back on AND set the air conditioning switch on to get cooler air to flow through the vents. The fan will still continue to now blow cooler air through even though the fan switch is turned completely off. Mark G&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16066" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T15:09:49.253" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T22:48:05.473" Title="2006 Jeep Commander - heater is only blowing hot air" Tags="|jeep|hvac|heater|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27620" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:51:41.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a situation where I intended to turn right but the snow packed road caused my care to continue straight ahead until the tire 'caught' a dry patch, thus causing the car to jerk to the right.  No apparent troubles, but I did hear a 'click' when the tire hit the dry patch.  I was able to complete the turn and proceed along my merry way.  In the succeeding days a low volume rumble grew louder to the point I felt the rubbing in the steering wheel.  I figured i may have broke a wheel bearing, a somewhat expensive fix.  Actually I'd mucked something up inside the transaxle, a very expensive fix!.  I scrapped the car.  Lesson: you don't have to hit anything to seriously destroy a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16070" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:51:41.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:10:56.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could capture the heat from the electric motor, and convert that into more energy using a thermoelectric device.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://phys.org/news/2015-05-device-electricity-industrially-competitive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;University of Florida research&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:10:56.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:25:07.417" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;take some of the output force to reuse it as input&quot; can be interpreted as regenerative braking, but the big differences are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regenerative braking takes power back from the wheels while turbo take power from the engine itself, that would be otherwise wasted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The power of the turbo adds to the normal power of the engine while the power of regenerative braking goes to storage to be used by the engine normally without any performance increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see a turbo as a supplementary power to the max power output of the engine I would see supercapacitors as something close too. Supercapacitors can deliver a high current to the engine (thus high power) that the batteries can not deliver for a short time, thus making the car go faster for a short period (more akin to what a nitrous oxide injection would do) at expense of overheating, decreased efficiency, and otherwise reducing the lifetime of the electric engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T02:32:24.297" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T02:32:24.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T21:07:11.160" Score="4" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I put ether antifreeze or water in my radiator it immediately comes out from beneath the water pump? What could cause that to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16074" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T21:17:56.520" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T21:17:56.520" Title="1994 Dodge Dakota V8, Antifreeze leaking from water pump" Tags="|cooling-system|water-pump|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27717" CreationDate="2016-03-30T21:15:50.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most vehicles the seal on the water pump will fail when the bearings go bad, or something else bad happens to the pump.  Water leaking from the pump is almost always an indication that the pump is shot and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, also check all your hoses for bursts or clamps that have come off.  The water might &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; like its coming from the pump if it's running down from a coincidental hole in a hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T21:15:50.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T21:22:50.333" Score="3" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Chrysler 300 2006. The check engine light is on and an error code U0164 was diagnosed. Does anyone know the problem and how to fix it? I know nothing about cars Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:34:38.183" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:34:38.183" Title="How to fix U0164 error code for Chrysler 300 2006?" Tags="|chrysler-300|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:10:54.933" Score="8" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I approach a stretch of road that has been single-laned due to roadworks, the sign-flipper spins the sign to &lt;strong&gt;STOP&lt;/strong&gt;.  Having been through these roadworks before, I know I'll probably be waiting at least 3 minutes, probably more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave it running, then fuel consumption and engine wear will continue at a constant rate.  If I turn off, then there will be no fuel consumption or engine wear while the engine is off, but there may be greater fuel consumption and wear during restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I leave the engine running, or turn it off?  What is the time threshold whereby it is better to leave the engine idling, vs switching off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking for any specific model, but in general for any reasonably modern (say post 2000) fuel-injected internal combustion-engined car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="11239" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T05:28:16.300" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:28:16.300" Title="For how long should I idle at a stop?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|driving|wear|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27720" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:16:42.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;fuel injected vehicles don't require a crazy amount of fuel to get started, in terms of fuel economy alone anything over 30 seconds should be safe (although we are talking about levels of fuel only eco-modders care about). If you are concerned about wear, there's no good way to tell which is better. If you change oil regularly I wouldn't worry about the wear aspect as long as this isn't multiple times in a driving day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16056" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T22:16:42.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:31:33.930" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there isn't any equivalent. A turbo is used because combustion engines are inherently inefficient: they convert chemical energy into mechanical energy, using an awkward detour via &lt;em&gt;heat&lt;/em&gt;. Unfortunately, heat is pretty much the worst possible way to store energy: by the laws of thermodynamics, you can only convert it to other forms of energy if you also increase entropy. If you do the physics, you find out that the maximum efficiency is the &lt;em&gt;Carnot efficiency&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;eta;&lt;/em&gt; = 1 &amp;minus; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;C&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;H&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;C&lt;/sub&gt; and &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;H&lt;/sub&gt; are the &lt;em&gt;cold&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; temperature points of the engine cycle, i.e. surrounding air vs. combustion temperature. Note that the fraction approaches zero as &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;H&lt;/sub&gt; rises&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;, i.e. the loss can be made quite small by letting the combustion happen at high temperature. But you can't make the temperature &lt;em&gt;infinitely&lt;/em&gt; high, and therefore some energy is inevitably lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consider the turbo as a device that retrieves back some part of the lost energy&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger;&lt;/sup&gt; or, more to the point, you can just see it as a means of increasing the operation pressure and thus temperature, and thereby reducing the loss somewhat. At any rate, a turbo is just a means to &lt;em&gt;adress the problem that a combustion engine is not efficient&lt;/em&gt;. (In practice, you won't find any engine with efficiency better than 30%.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to do that for an electric motor &amp;ndash; because these are efficient! They convert electric energy to mechanical via magnetic fields, and that process is far better controlled. You can approach 100% efficiency without needing to have any temperature or so approach infinity.&lt;br&gt;Sure, there are some small losses in the copper windings' electrical resistivity, in eddy currents and bearing friction, but these can be made very small by precision design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything, it might make sense to search for a turbo-analogue for &lt;em&gt;batteries&lt;/em&gt;, because these are actually the weak part of an electric car, efficiency-wise. Perhaps it would make sense to tack on some kind of waste-heat retrieval to these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;In case you remark that the loss also vanishes if &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;C&lt;/sub&gt; becomes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absolute_zero&quot;&gt;zero&lt;/a&gt;: correct, but there's not much you can do about &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;C&lt;/sub&gt;. Cooling the air below ambient temperature would require a giant fridge, which would of course overall just waste even more energy. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intercooler&quot;&gt;Cooling &lt;em&gt;after a supercharger&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; does make sense though, because the temperature is already higher than ambient here, i.e. this can be done passively.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;In the end, &amp;ldquo;retrieving waste energy&amp;rdquo; is moot: you can always consider the motor and turbo together as one thermodynamic engine, and its total efficiency can not be better than Carnot.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16077" LastEditorUserId="16077" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T22:51:59.813" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T22:51:59.813" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27720" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:31:45.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;wear is increased at engine start&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have no oil pressure and you start the car, that is when the most wear occurs on your bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank bearings in most cars are not roller bearings anymore.  They are called plain bearings and rely on hydro-dynamic lubrication.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is answer related to crank bearings with illustrations so you can understand how these bearing function and how they can suffer from increased wear at engine start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24475/what-are-crankshaft-bearings-and-how-are-they-different-from-camshaft-end-bearin/24477#24477&quot;&gt;What are crankshaft bearings and how are they different from camshaft end bearings?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These fluid bearings are also called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'fluid dynamic bearings' and 'hydrostatic bearings'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They rely upon a thin layer of oil between the crankshaft journal and the hydrostatic bearing.  The crankshaft rides on the oil much as a pane of glass would sit on a layer of water if you poured it on your countertop and sat the glass down on it.  Breaking this fluid barrier wears the bearing surface down.  Once the bearing is worn down too much the integrity of the fluid barrier can get broken due to too much gap between the journal and the bearing.  When that occurs then engine will begin to eat itself up.  A condition called rod knock will begin to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer describes 'rod knock' very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21048/what-is-a-rod-knock/21056#21056&quot;&gt;What is a rod knock?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although saving fuel is important to our wallets as well as the environment you want to be careful with stopping and starting your engine all the time.  Certainly technology has become better and vehicles are less prone to this issue than any other time but there is a balance to doing this too frequently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think your describing a constant start/stop of the engine like a delivery truck but this is something to keep in mind.  I typically leave my engine idling in situations like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T22:31:45.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27713" CreationDate="2016-03-30T22:34:47.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;bad air duct door&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have multiple air duct doors in your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them will control the air from your heater.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have situation where the servo motor is bad in a particular door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can have a situation where hot air comes out of one vent and cold air comes from another and various combinations of the issue that maps back to a bad ducting door which directs or blocks air from a particular place and directs it to globally to your various vents on the dash and floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to tear out your dash, more than likely, to get to the problem door it may bring tears to your eyes due to the intense emotional and intellectual pain it can create within you.  I suggest keeping hammers and other heavy objects that can be thrown out of arms reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;This what your dash will look like when it's torn out&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9gJo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9gJo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest thinking about organization of components, parts, screws at a very high level.  Here's a great link on organization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23596/keeping-track-of-removed-screws&quot;&gt;Keeping track of removed screws?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Word of advice if you do this yourself.  &lt;strong&gt;Plastic baggies and sharpie pens.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T22:34:47.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22315" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:15:44.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would venture to guess that it is a completely random, and in no way threatening plastic trim piece/wiring harness/adjustment lever under the steering column that is rubbing or vibrating against it's fasteners or another trim piece. It is completely intermittent because sometimes it catches itself in such a way that it doesn't vibrate, or it could be activated by a certain frequency of the engine, which can occur at several different speeds depending on the gear you're in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my car, I finally felt around enough to track an annoying rattle to the electric mirror adjustment knob which was located on my steering column. I ended up putting a piece foam tape under the edge, which put just enough force against the knob to keep it from rocking due to engine vibrations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rattle may be that easy to find, or it may be buried under a trim piece. If you have a Chilton/Haynes manual (or some google/forum searching skills), it will tell you what panels can be easily removed, and may also have diagrams to give you a better idea of what could be causing the pesky noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T23:15:44.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:16:53.333" Score="3" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to install these multi-color dome lights, I successfully installed the right side, but when I tried to install on the left side, the left one won't work. The product is not the issue, I tested it and the product works. When I install the original dome light, that works fine. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16080" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T23:54:04.617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T23:54:04.617" Title="Problem switching in new dome lights in the front" Tags="|electrical|lights|installation|modification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:19:30.797" Score="3" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2011 Hyundai Tucson Limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, seemingly randomly, the Electronic Stability Control light will turn yellow, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FMyW.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FMyW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the Downhill Brake Control light will turn red.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szxJV.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szxJV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sometimes causes problems my shifting. When I am in park, I can't shift out of park (I think sometimes depressing the brake pedal harder than normal will solve this). When I am in drive, I can't shift past neutral. I have to resort to the Shift Lock Release button in order to continue shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the OBD II codes while this is happening and nothing shows up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a recommendation for what the problem is and if I can fix this at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16079" LastEditorUserId="16079" LastEditDate="2019-03-24T15:24:49.327" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T15:24:49.327" Title="Hyundai Tucson has trouble shifting when ESC and DBC lights come on" Tags="|hyundai|shifting|warning-light|bcm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26563" CreationDate="2016-03-30T23:26:12.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as it's my question, I've kept it in the back of my mind for a while. Without any hard evidence to back it up, I've come to a general conclusion that makes sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately releasing the gas and putting the clutch in, such that the engine would go from WOT under load to idle without load, could cause unburnt oil, which was vented into the intake chamber via the PCV valve under full throttle, to swirl around and find a nice resting place for itself in the intake plenum/manifold/throttle body. If done frequently, I suppose this could lead to a loss of power when going WOT again, as the extra oil deposits are drawing into the combustion chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowly releasing the throttle would limit the PCV activity towards the end of the go-fast session, allowing more time for the oil to enter the chamber and burn up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, total guess, no data to back it up. Just thinkin' out loud!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T23:26:12.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T00:04:12.497" Score="4" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;2013 Corolla have replaced front pads, rotors, pistons, bled fluid, still rotors overheating causing 'judder' when braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16081" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T00:29:16.447" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T14:25:15.840" Title="Brake judder on new rotors" Tags="|toyota|brakes|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T00:17:26.770" Score="2" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Chevy sonic 2014, purchased from B M W about 2 months ago. My car smelled like it was getting warm. Opened the hood brown sludge. Mechanic says it isn't a head gasket and are unable to detect what is wrong. Any light you can shed would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16082" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T00:28:02.720" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T00:28:02.720" Title="Chevy sonic 2014" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|sonic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T16:35:16.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27705" CreationDate="2016-03-31T00:25:24.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gotta first apologize to user16006. I was looking for ways to stop you from modifying your motorcycle because the idea seemed silly. But who am I to do that? I mean, modding cars is one of my passions. I'm gonna stop being a dumbass and try to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your motorcycle, you want to limit boost pressure to when the throttle is fully open. The reason is that the engine is tuned to provide the most fuel and timing under those conditions. If you are not going full throttle, the engine is tuned to save fuel. When you boost an engine you need more fuel. To limit damaging the engine, just turn on the supercharger during full throttle with a microswitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you are going to be putting more air into the engine. You need to balance out the ratio between air/fuel. A fuel injected engine means you will either need a bigger injector from a bigger CC engine, or put another injector that only works when the supercharger does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are also going to need to tune the engine in order to get the most performance out of it. It depends on how much boost you can get out of it. Get yourself a boost gauge from a diesel vehicle (you can find those in scrap yards) and hook it to the intake manifold. For every .3 bar of boost you are going to want to test removing one degree of timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to directly answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I require to vary boost pressure with respect to increase or decrease of throttle (engine rpm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; case the answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck OP! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T00:25:24.413" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T02:09:31.953" Score="6" ViewCount="6994" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Without keys, how can one access the locked trunk of a 2003 Corolla, from the interior of the vehicle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latches on the back seats are for child seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a video for the 2007 model, but not the 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16085" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T00:36:29.397" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T13:35:16.107" Title="Access locked trunk of Corolla 2003" Tags="|toyota|corolla|locks|trunk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27733" CreationDate="2016-03-31T03:06:57.043" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the 2003 Corolla the release for rear seats is in the trunk.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two knobs close to the hinges of the trunk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the rear seat back releases. If you push them toward the rear of the car they will pop and release the rear seat backs and you can fold them down and access the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes of course that you have access to the inside of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM12744U/pdf/1-3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a PDF of the owners manual&lt;/a&gt; off the Toyota website.  Page 30 has an illustration of the knob locations.  You'll need to pull a top edge of the seat closest to the side of the car back enough to jam your arm into the gap to get access.  If that doesn't work you may want to try the crack between the seats.  The locking mechanism is in the rear of the seat back so either side will probably prove to be as difficult to access as the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add that I have managed to pull this off on a 2001 or '02.  Either way, they are the same as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of knob location&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HRWR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HRWR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T03:21:06.833" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T03:21:06.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:23:19.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good answers here already that pretty much entirely cover the topic. One thing that wasn't mentioned however is KERS - kinetic energy recovery systems.&#xA;Effectively you have a large mass (flywheel) that spins up as the vehicle is in motion. Generally under brakes or vac (no throttle) the driveline feeds energy into this flywheel. When needed, the flywheel then engages via a clutch and can feed that energy back into the driveline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not strictly an EV technology (and, in fact, I'm not sure if &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; EV's use KERS), it's another possible avenue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T05:23:19.423" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27705" CreationDate="2016-03-31T06:00:17.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to say it's not necessary here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &quot;electric supercharger&quot; like a leaf blower is more a pump than a compressor. The amount of extra air that isn't that much; it should be quite readily compensated for by the fuel injection management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:00:17.820" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T08:08:18.417" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have checked the connection on the truck and all are working fine but when the trailer is hooked up I have turn signals and running lights but no brake lights and with the running lights on I press the brake and the lights go out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16089" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T08:37:22.017" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T09:34:32.147" Title="Troubleshooting Trailer Lights" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|lights|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T08:10:56.547" Score="3" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 1.6 HDI Picasso C3.  After driving 1000 km i noticed it consumed about 1/8 of oil on the oil measuring stick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;my question is how much liters does the stick measure?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;is half a stick is half an oil tank or half a liter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and is this oil consumption normal for an engine that has done 110 thousand km?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16090" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T08:36:32.247" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T11:34:45.473" Title="Citroen C3 Picasso HDI 1.6 - Oil Consumption Question" Tags="|engine|oil|citroen|picasso|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27737" CreationDate="2016-03-31T09:34:32.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a ground issue. When the running lights are on they are actually grounding through the brake lights. When you apply the brakes it cuts off the ground and the lights go out. The turn signals only look like their working. They are probably turning on and off when they should be getting brighter and dimmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double check the wiring on the trailer and that the ground line has a good connection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T09:34:32.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:18:13.003" Score="4" ViewCount="5301" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pbxJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pbxJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmoWK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmoWK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InRGU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InRGU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bK3JK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bK3JK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil leak is slow and builds up after time. Seems to get worse if driving over 70mph. Car is ford fiesta 1.4 tdci. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture where i've highlighted red circle - the oil seems to build up here, wells up. Any idea what that part of the engine is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell if there's a loss of power as the car is slow anyway and not had very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14540" LastActivityDate="2023-03-30T22:19:56.913" Title="Oil leak: any idea of the likely source?" Tags="|ford|oil|oil-leak|fiesta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27753" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:23:45.773" Score="6" ViewCount="43328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into general car stuff like storage and lights the general stuff. I ran into a device called a &quot;nitro OBD2&quot; they have one to save fuel one to generate more power and stuff. Looking into them more I see many mixed reviews from general people no big car guru's (that I have found), some fun youtube videos to watch.. But my question is do things like this really do anything or are they a scam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16093" LastEditorUserId="16093" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T13:01:27.433" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T02:29:50.773" Title="Nitro OBD2 SCAM OR WORK?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-10-06T16:13:57.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27738" CreationDate="2016-03-31T11:34:45.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dip stick operating range is typically a liter (or quart).  I would say this level of oil loss is acceptable.  If you can find the source of the leak it would be best to fix it, but it is not going to hurt anything as long as you keep the oil level within the operating range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T11:34:45.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:20:46.460" Score="3" ViewCount="5603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Ford Focus 2008 1.6 TDCI. Recently I filled the DPF Additive tank with EOLYS Fluid but I couldn't regenerate and reset the values that day, so I drove to my home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following day, I went to work at my lunch time. I took my car to the repairman to regenerate and reset the values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem started showing up after it had been completed successfully, the IDS was showing an error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8xA4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8xA4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Error Code&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. forgot to tell that a year ago I had ran out of fluid, I couldn't find any solution and fluid for around 3 or 4 months. When I found the fluid I bought only 1 liter(they said it's enough). For the next 2 months everything was ok, then it started showing me P2584 error code until now that I have filled it full&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16094" LastEditorUserId="16094" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T07:21:20.450" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T15:06:19.087" Title="Ford Focus 2008 Error code: P2585-61" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|focus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27713" CreationDate="2016-03-31T13:30:04.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your update makes it clear to me that your car's external vents simply pull in enough air to give you some airflow even when the fan is completely off.  This isn't really a problem, and doesn't indicate that anything is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an '88 Celica in the past, and even with the fan off, it felt like the fan was on 1 or even 2 when I was on the highway.  The location of the external intake was in such a position that air was just forced into it at speed.  The A/C never worked, so I considered it a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to make air completely stop coming through the vents is to turn on &quot;recirculate&quot; which normally looks like an arrow doing a U-turn or similar.  This will close the opening to the outside vent and stop the residual air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWEkn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWEkn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recirc button&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now with the A/C and fan off, you're going to get cool or warm air depending on if the heat or A/C was on last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T13:30:04.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27729" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:25:15.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you replace the caliper pistons on a 2013MY vehicle?&#xA;In any case, from my experience brake judder usually comes from different brand rotors and pads which may or may not subside as time goes on and the two wear together. Other than that its cheap rotors with too much of a wave cast/ground into the face.&#xA;I also just noticed you say your rotors are overheating, are you racing your Corolla? If not I cant see why your rotors would overheat, unless you drive and brake very aggressively everyday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T14:25:15.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:33:15.530" Score="6" ViewCount="1630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Royal Enfiel Classic 350.  I recently met with an accident and had to replace the tank, handle, light set, metal mount for light and the handle for the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My insurance did not cover for the fork replacement and the disc brake.  The company bent and corrected it and gave back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I replace the disc and the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is just 1 yr old and I intend to use it for at least 8-9 yrs more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16098" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T14:58:42.347" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T14:58:42.347" Title="Fork bent and replacement" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|enfield-classic|forks|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11591" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:35:05.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If indeed it checks out and you need to replace the camshaft oil seals, check the PCV system too. If it gets clogged and stops functioning, excessive crank case pressure can squeeze out camshaft and crank seals which will make for recurring and potentially catastrophic failure. Which engine does your XC90 have? I use my S60R 5cyl as reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T14:35:05.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:35:57.783" Score="3" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I transfer a 2007 factory installed Home-LINK mirror into a 2016 Kia Sportage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16099" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T10:43:37.507" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T02:20:57.773" Title="Can I transfer a 2007 Kia Sportage home-link into a 2016 Kia sportage" Tags="|kia|sportage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:40:27.763" Score="7" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend, I put new Wilwood calipers, pads and stainless brake lines on the rear of my 06 Solstice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Tuesday, I started seeing an intermittent ABS warning light. Yesterday (Wednesday), I started seeing an intermittent battery light. Late yesterday, the DIC flickered on and off a few times within about 30 seconds, then went back to normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car no longer has an e-brake (waiting on the small calipers and brackets for that), so occasionally the parking brake warning light also comes on when the handle moves up or down due to a bump or hard acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine runs great. No problems starting. Battery is about 10 months old, spent a few months disconnected (positive and negative) while I was rebuilding the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I'd think this was a failing alternator or a loose ground, but everything else appears to be working fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put about 600 miles on the car since I put the rebuilt engine in. Problems started a day or two after the new brakes went on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also had a CEL for a day that went away on its own. I have an HP Tuners interface, but haven't yet scanned to see what the cause was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?  Brake fluid looks good, clutch works fine (shared reservoir). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also replaced the Solstice dash with one from a Saturn SKY (much cooler), which involved removing and reinstalling the instrument cluster. In this car, everything - speedo,tach etc.) are electronically connected - no hard cables going anywhere. The speedo and tach work perfectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed instrument backlight slightly pulsing intermittently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love saying &quot;intermittent.&quot; Usually leads to &quot;uhhhhh... Dunno.&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I was in some pretty heavy rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DTCs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0x7E8: P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Pending, Current, History)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0x7E8: P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (Current)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0x7E8: P0563 - System Voltage High (Pending, Current)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0x7E8: P0621 - Generator Lamp Terminal Circuit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeze Frame: 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DTC: P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel System Status: 02 00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculated Engine Load: 13.3333333333333 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Coolant Temp: 90 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -14.84375 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 18.75 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 27 kPa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine RPM: 1653 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle Speed: 0 km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing Advance: 16 °&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intake Air Temp: 21 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mass Air Flow: 4 g/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throttle Position: 21.1764705882353 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run Time Since Engine Start: 749 s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commanded EVAP Purge: 12.9411764705882 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Level Input: 41.5686274509804 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EVAP System Vapor Pressure: 16355 kPa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barometric Pressure: 110 kPa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalyst Temp B1S1: 887 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control Module Voltage: 13 V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolute Load: 10.9803921568627 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commanded EQ Ratio: 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relative Throttle Position: 9.41176470588235 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ambient Air Temp: 21 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolute Throttle Position B: 21.1764705882353 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerator Position D: 18.8235294117647 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerator Position E: 9.41176470588235 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commanded Throttle Actuator: 12.156862745098 %&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T21:48:36.367" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T21:48:36.367" Title="New brakes, intermittent ABS light and battery light" Tags="|battery|brakes|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11247" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:43:02.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My S60R had the same problem on the driver side window. Hold the button fully in order to close the window, but hold it when it gets to the top for 10 seconds. You will hear the window &quot;nudge&quot; from inside the door. Then immediately release and fully press the button again. It should now go up and stay up when using the auto function of the switch.&#xA;It seems though that there are variations of this &quot;programming&quot; depending on BCM version so if this does not work exactly like I said you should just check online for the other (slight) variations of this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately there must be deeper issue as a few months after I corrected mine, it started going down again just as it got to the top. From what I gather on from other sources is that it may or may not be a permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T14:43:02.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27741" CreationDate="2016-03-31T14:43:35.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some just READ data from the OBD2 port. Others like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diablosport.com/products/intune.html&quot;&gt;DiabloSport&lt;/a&gt; handheld tuner can modify the engine tune IF the model supports it. I have no idea if the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xcar360.com/nitrodata-chip-tuning-box-nitroobd2-tuning-tool.html&quot;&gt;NitroOBD2&lt;/a&gt; gadget does anything it claims to do. It makes my spidey sense tingle because the price is too low. Handheld tuners that work are not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T14:43:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27733" CreationDate="2016-03-31T15:41:41.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXKhksv-v5k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows how to get into the trunk from the inside of the car. It works on 2003 Corollas as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull the left back seat so you can insert your arm behind it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;feel for the three holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert a finger into the middle hole and pull left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ4iO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQ4iO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16085" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T15:41:41.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27756" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:03:29.960" Score="10" ViewCount="9236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having a discussion today that turning off the engine while still moving along at about 20mph, while the engine is still revving will do no damage to the car, apart from the obvious safety issues (no brakes, speedo etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is because the oil pump is still turning and the engine is being lubricated so it'll be fine to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will removing the ignition key while the engine is still turning damage my car?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What will happen if this did happen?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I obviously do not want to try it in case I destroy something and ruin my car or crash as I have no brakes in an emergency!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE: I have a manual transmission, fuel injected. I mean just turning the key to ignition, not actually removing it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T19:24:36.857" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T21:06:27.100" Title="Does stopping the engine while it is still moving/turning damage my car?" Tags="|engine-theory|damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27755" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:20:33.793" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will happen is dependent on the configuration of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmission - Due to the torque converter, the engine will just stop.  This is bad for the transmission, because the parts are moving, but the pump is not as the pump is run by the input shaft.  This is similar to towing, where they typically recommend no more than 5 miles at no more than 25mph with the drive wheels on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel injection with manual - If left in gear, engine will continue spin, but the injectors and spark plugs will not fire.  Oil pump will keep everything lubed.  As soon as you turn the key to ON again, it will run like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carb with manual - Similar to FI, except fuel will still be pushed through the engine.  This is not good for wear, but will not cause immediate damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to consider, most vehicles lock the steering when the key is removed.  The brakes usually have 1-2 presses left after the engine is shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T17:20:33.793" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:37:33.743" Score="0" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please explain why Diesel engines (in general):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vibrate more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are louder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand in principal how both engine types work so feel free to go into technical details. My assumption is that it probably has to do with the higher compression ratio of the Diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11440" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T19:13:36.723" Title="Diesel engine vs petrol engine characteristics" Tags="|engine|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-31T22:21:35.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T18:46:45.483" Score="2" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the mistake of buying a BMW when moving to the Caribbean. It ran very well and has had a quarterly service every year. (We basically live on a permanent hill, very steep up and down)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week it was difficult to start the car, with the turnover seeming to take a very long time to be effective. Now the car just makes a whirring sound when trying to start it. Almost like the starter has no teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we have no BMW mechanic on island, I am looking to find out which part (s) I need to ship in to make it work again. Battery is fully charged, and I have tried to jump start with leads and starter pack. Will replacing the starter motor solve the problem, or could it be more simple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16104" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T18:57:37.670" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:20:24.877" Title="2007 BMW X3 3.0Si wont start" Tags="|battery|starting|automatic-transmission|bmw|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27757" CreationDate="2016-03-31T19:13:36.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are absolutely right that the high compression ratio is the cause - you end up with a much greater pressure variation in the combustion chamber. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/12036/37&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for explanation about the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the vibration is also directly related to this. With a bigger pressure differential, everything moves and vibrates more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T19:13:36.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27595" CreationDate="2016-03-31T19:26:14.457" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car and Driver &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/columns/the-pushrod-engine-finally-gets-its-due&quot;&gt;asked this very question&lt;/a&gt; to GM's Sam Winegarden, chief engineer for small-block V8's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of a push-rod valvetrain mentioned in the article can be summarized as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It allows for a more compact engine layout&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camshaft sits in the &quot;valley&quot; of the engine, making use of free space. Because the engine doesn't have to place the camshaft above the cylinder head, the overall dimensions of a push-rod engine are both shorter and narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more compact engine dimension frees up precious space in the engine bay and helps keep the vehicle's center of gravity low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It results in a lighter engine&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All else equal, one camshaft will have less rotating inertia than the two or four camshafts found in OHC designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fewer parts in the valvetrain = less weight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It costs less to build&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fewer parts in the valvetrain = less cost. The article mentions an estimated $400 saving per engine. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T19:26:14.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27770" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:03:23.047" Score="10" ViewCount="24614" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.bosch-automotive.com/en/parts_and_accessories_2/service_parts_1/glow_plugs_3/history_10/history_11&quot;&gt;this Bosch page&lt;/a&gt;, their glow plug was developed in the early 1920's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet the diesel engine was around for at least 20 years prior to that; the French used it in a submarine in 1904, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that diesel technology relies on auto-ignition, how did they get the engine up to temperature without a glow plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T00:13:14.017" Title="How did they start diesel engines before the glow plug was invented?" Tags="|diesel|engine-theory|glowplugs|history|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T20:52:06.343" Score="6" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think someone tried to siphon my gas tank and now it fills super slow. Like ten minutes slow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what part might be damaged and would it be in the fuel tank itself or in the fuel tank neck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16109" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T01:21:12.380" Title="1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - Takes fuel super slow" Tags="|fuel-tank|gasoline|oldsmobile|intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27765" CreationDate="2016-04-01T08:19:12.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glow plug is merely an aid for starting the engine. There are many designs still produced today without any glow plugs (eg military diesels run without any electricity), and even many modern diesel engines can be started if glow plugs fail (unless onboard computer prevents that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel's auto-ignition comes from heat generated by adiabatic compression of air just before injection. Glow plugs just add a little heat so you need less cranking before compression heats the engine up into operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastEditorUserId="16091" LastEditDate="2020-04-12T12:49:53.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T12:49:53.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27765" CreationDate="2016-04-01T08:48:17.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on the answer above, many old vintage diesels ran a 'hot bulb' design. There would be a section of the head where an open flame would be used to heat it, so the engine could ignite the lower grade fuel oils/diesels without the need for extremely high compression. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T08:48:17.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T12:01:00.277" Score="1" ViewCount="4089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used an ELM 327 and Torque app in one of my friend's Toyota Fortuner (2012 model), but didn't get correct data. Rpm was nil, Air intake temperature was negative, Load was constant at 6.66667%. After reading up a bit, it seems that Torque app is not able to detect the correct OBD2 protocol.&#xA;Can someone help me out with the correct protocol used by Fortuner, why is this problem happening, any solution to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: Can someone please link me to a website where I can get OBD2 protocol followed by &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; cars (till 2015 models). I couldn't find Fortuner protocol anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T13:47:23.737" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T20:05:25.260" Title="Toyota Fortuner OBD2 protocol" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T12:23:43.330" Score="4" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that in the US, since 2008 vehicles must have a CAN connection on the OBD-II plug, but what about Europe? &#xA;Do vehicles have to add CAN to the OBD-II plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it possible to directly send CAN messages through the OBD-II plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16120" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T13:14:22.267" Title="(Mandatory in the EU) CAN through OBD-II?" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27765" CreationDate="2016-04-01T14:55:29.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen it done personally but I've been told that some old (WWII) military engines would be warmed up prior to starting in any number of ways which anecdotal included the use of lit marine flares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently some Russian tanks with Diesel engines would be started by cranking them with Petrol engines or even warming them over a fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T14:55:29.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27778" CreationDate="2016-04-01T17:06:08.033" Score="5" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently looking to buy a used motorcycle, and today I was inspecting a 2005 Honda CBF 600, whose VIN was: ZDCPC38B05F065417. (I'm specifying the VIN in case it was stolen; perhaps the owner might google it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike looked fine, but the odometer had no reading. It wasn't zeroed out, but more like &quot;dashed out&quot;, i.e. displaying dashes: -----------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first suspicion was that someone (not necessarily the seller) was trying to manipulate the reading, failed, and left it &quot;dashed out&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps I'm wrong, maybe the on-board computer had crashed? Or there might be some other cause? I was hoping to get some info from CBF owners: have you seen something like this happen? And if so, how can I reboot the computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; it turned out that, as DucatiKiller suggested, the regulator/rectifier was (most probably) not working properly. The seller admitted that he didn't want to get into the problem of buying a new, costly one, because he figured he'll find a buyer, even with no reading on the odometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I found a better deal on a Honda CBF 600, so I can't say for sure that that was indeed the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T00:48:47.430" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T00:48:47.430" Title="Honda CBF 600: odometer has no reading -- what can this mean?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|odometer|cb600|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27781" CreationDate="2016-04-01T17:42:11.123" Score="11" ViewCount="3924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, if fuel gets in the catalytic converter, how does it damage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T06:01:37.223" Title="How does raw fuel damage the catalytic converter?" Tags="|exhaust|engine-theory|emissions|catalytic-converter|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27776" CreationDate="2016-04-01T17:46:44.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this is a possibility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not dealt with your bike in particular but on various CBR versions if the rectifier is bad and dumping a little AC current into the system then you can have the dash do a lot of crazy things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to test the stator, here's a link.  It's for a Suzuki but the 5 wires for the rectifier work the same as your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3534/1999-gsxr-600-what-is-wrong-when-my-regulator-keeps-burning-out/23922#23922&quot;&gt;1999 gsxr 600 - What is wrong when my regulator keeps burning out?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a multimeter you can pick one up for pretty cheap at your local electronics or automotive parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some multimeter instructions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25816/multimeter-basic-functionality-and-howto&quot;&gt;Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be your issue but at least you have the ability to rule it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other thoughts, physical layer inspection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a sub-harness on your bike.  It plugs into the main wire harness.  I've seen that plug go bad on other models.  Check to see where the plug from the dash (big one in back of dash) routes and plugs into the mail.  Wiggle it.  Disconnect it.  Visually inspect it.  See if there are burned up or corroded connectors that may be inhibiting a good connection from the main harness to the sub-harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, check the connector to the dash unit and repeat the above to see if it's a poor connection to that device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T17:46:44.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27595" CreationDate="2016-04-01T18:18:09.147" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a DOHC head next to a pushrod head and the answer is immediately obvious. The heads from pushrod V8s seem impossibly tiny if you've only ever seen DOHC heads before. And since the block doesn't actually take up that much space in the overall size of the engine, shrinking the heads makes an enormous difference in the overall size and weight of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size and weight of a 5-6L pushrod V8 is comparable to the size and weight of a 1.5-2.0L DOHC I4 motor. If you're trying to make a fast sports car and have a choice between two equally heavy engines, one of which makes 200whp (honda F20 for an extremely high power all-motor example) and the other makes 400whp (chevy LS6 for example), which would you choose? Unless gas is extremely expensive or you're being taxed on engine displacement, it's always going to be the more powerful motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda F20c/F22c1 Motor Weight (w/accessories): 326lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GM LS1/2/3/6 Motor Weight (w/accessories): 385lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel efficiency is similar as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T18:18:09.147" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27777" CreationDate="2016-04-01T18:59:01.560" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A catalyst is a chemical that contributes in a chemical reaction but remains unchanged after the whole reaction is complete. In a catalytic converter platinum is the catalyst that converts unburned hydrocarbons into H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O and CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;. If there is too much unburned hydrocarbons going into the catalytic converter, it greatly increases the temperature inside the converter. This increased temperature causes the platinum to be oxidized into platinum oxide, thus eliminating the platinum catalyst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T18:59:01.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24499" CreationDate="2016-04-01T19:00:51.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel-electric railroad locomotives do use regenerative braking, but they call it &quot;dynamic braking&quot;.  Also, they don't store the energy, they blow it off through resistor grids and fans at roof level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full electric locomotives and some streetcars can generally feed the regenerated power back into the wire or third rail; this is much simpler in DC systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the traction motors (generally one per axle) are driven by the train's momentum and so run as generators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16124" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T19:00:51.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27747" CreationDate="2016-04-01T20:55:11.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the '80's, I did motorcycle collision repair professionally in California. I straightened quite a few bent forks, using a hydraulic press. We would straighten the triple clamps along with the fork tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if the bend was severe, there is likely a crease in the fork tube along the lower edge of the lower triple clamp. We would turn the fork tube 90' (so the crease faced to the left or right) and slide the tube up to put the crease inside the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, if the tubes were still unacceptably bent, the front suspension would not move over it's entire travel without binding or sticking. So if it doesn't bind or stick, it's probably good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't straightened the brake discs, that was done by another tech. Disc runout should be measured with a dial indicator and should be within factory specs. If not within specs, or if the surface of the disk is damaged, it should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the time I did this work, we never had a fork tube come back. However, I think in the end whether or not you replace it depends on your budget. This was an acceptable repair in the US in the Eighties, but probably would not be now. It is apparently an acceptable repair where ever you are. But if a straight pair of used fork tubes become available at a price that will not unduly burden you, I see no reason NOT to replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16127" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T20:55:11.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27760" CreationDate="2016-04-01T21:20:24.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;it sounds like your starter motor splined shaft isn't engaging&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter motor has a component called a bendix gear. It engages a pinion gear on the shaft with the ring gear that's on the outer edge of the flywheel.  Once you let off the key in the ignition and it snaps back to 'On' the pinion gear shaft on the starter retracts so the flywheel outer gear doesn't overspin and destroy the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like that pinion gear isn't coming out of the starter to engage the flywheel gear.  In that case, you would need a new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:20:24.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27578" CreationDate="2016-04-01T21:34:14.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much fuel built up in the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be from a petcock leaking and a stuck float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's the theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much fuel in the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It begins to heat up while your blipping the throttle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine cases begin to get hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel thins up with the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start riding and crank spins up and begins to throw the excess fuel around in the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixture get's too rich and your bike dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pull the plug and see that it's wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solutions and things to check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Petcock - is it leaking?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Needle and Seat - is the float sticking open and allowing fuel to drip into the crankcase?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain the crankcase - Was there a bunch of fuel in there?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it's as simple as a stuck float.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:34:14.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27694" CreationDate="2016-04-01T21:48:44.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil was low as fk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No lubrication meant the cam would not glide, but result in more of an impact, resulting in tapping sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9146" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T21:48:44.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T22:02:13.397" Score="7" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern cars have lots of electric stuff like fans etc.The oil pump does not need to much energy to spin so making it electric would not be a nightmare on a car with an orthodox electrical system .The oil pressure could be regulated be PWM comtrol of the electric oil pump motor speed .My question is would it increase engine life if it is primed up before cranking ?Is it true that stop start has a big effect on car engine life ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T02:18:55.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T02:18:55.507" Title="Electric Oil pump" Tags="|oil|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27751" CreationDate="2016-04-01T22:04:06.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There's a specific bleed procedure for the ABS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't follow the procedure, it could be the root cause of your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the procedure, straight from the factory manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure&#xA;  [&#xA;  Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in Cautions and Notices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in Cautions and Notices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: Before performing the ABS Automated Bleed Procedure, first perform a manual or pressure bleed of the base brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding . The automated bleed procedure is recommended when one of the following conditions exist: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Base brake system bleeding does not achieve the desired pedal height or feel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Extreme loss of brake fluid has occurred &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Air ingestion is suspected in the secondary circuits of the brake modulator assembly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ABS Automated Bleed Procedure uses a scan tool to cycle the system solenoid valves and run the pump in order to purge any air from the secondary circuits. These circuits are normally closed off, and are only opened during system initialization at vehicle start up and during ABS operation. The automated bleed procedure opens these secondary circuits and allows any air trapped in these circuits to flow out toward the brake corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Performing the Automated Bleed Procedure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Notice: The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given. After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes . Repair or replace components as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lower the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the battery state of charge. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install a scan tool. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the scan tool, establish communications with the ABS system. Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Following the directions given on the scan tool, pressure bleed the base brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure: &#xA;  • If a DTC is detected, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle , and diagnose the appropriate DTC. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;13&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal to inspect for firmness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lower the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the scan tool. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the brake fluid level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling . &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this beneficial to a solution.  Please let us know what the issue was when you solve it.  Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T22:04:06.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T22:06:40.457" Score="4" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm helping get a '97 Jeep TJ with a third party sailcloth soft top out of retirement. This was a top quality lid in its day but it is showing signs of fatigue and brittleness due to its inactivity and sun/weather exposure for a few years. The only visible damage is some tearing at the rear tailgate hooks (a known stress point) and even that is not through all of the layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I waxed the (plastic) zippers with beeswax and they are working fine. The 'pieces' that make up the full top were under stress (taut) when I started to unzip them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of applying sheep's lanolin much as one would weatherproof a pair of boots in the hope of restoring something resembling its original suppleness and  strength. Is this going to produce restorative properties or just make a slippery mess of disintegrating fabric? It isn't at the 'fall apart' stage yet and I don't want to make it worse. I'm aware that the smell may be strong for a break-in period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may have inferred, I prefer natural products but I am open to commercial alternatives with a proven record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16128" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T02:11:48.017" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T02:11:48.017" Title="Restoring a third party Sailcloth soft top" Tags="|jeep|restoration|soft-top|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27709" CreationDate="2016-04-01T22:44:25.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Electric traction systems Buck down the voltage that goes to the electric motor from the battery .For example a 48V electric cart motor controller will give the motor Up to 48V but no more .Summarising and boiling down           electric motor theory for this stack             voltage is speed and current is torque .The jargon term TURBO is used when the controller is modified to sometimes act as a Voltage Amplifier giving more volts than the battery makes .This gives more speed but not more torque .This is how electric carts can be and are modded to go faster while keeping the same motor and the same battery pack .You have to know what you are doing otherwise you will blow up the motor just like adding turbo to a petrol engine .The degree of boost is the amount of voltage amplification that the controller is set up for .25% is a ball park reasonable figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T22:44:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27408" CreationDate="2016-04-02T00:43:50.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually sway bars are bolted to the chassis at a point somewhere near the lower control arms (in the front, on the subframe). Therefore it essentially makes each corner stiffer, individually. So with that being said, there is a &quot;zero&quot; position (where the suspension is when the car is parked), so the further the suspension travels away from that zero position, either positive or negative, the more resistance there is (I guess you could think of it like a pry bar?). So if you have a small diameter sway bar, it bends easily allowing more suspension travel, where when you get into some of the bigger diameter sway bars, the wheel will just stay in the (essentially in the zero position) air if it is in a hole. The goal here really is to add or take away grip, usually when the suspension is loaded up. The softer the setup, the more grip there is.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15848" LastEditorUserId="15848" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T16:04:00.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T16:04:00.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T00:46:40.947" Score="3" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear fog light in my BMW E46 2001 is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I first tried replacing the bulb itself, but the old bulb was still fine. I tried with a new bulb anyway, but the light didn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I visually checked the wiring in the trunk and especially the connection from the trunk to the car, and everything seemed fine. The housing unit is completely clean, by the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn on the light in the car, the dash indicator does come, but the light itself does not. I'm not sure where to look anymore, since the bulb and the wiring seem to be the two major culprits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked on the internet for answers, but I always come across the same answer: check the wiring. Which I already did. At least visually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I should check? Any particular fuses (I looked on the diagram and I can't find any fuses specifically related to the rear fog light), or other weak spots in the wiring? Any other suggestions are obviously welcome as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T11:14:09.123" Title="Stubborn rear fog light (BMW E46)" Tags="|electrical|bmw|lights|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27787" CreationDate="2016-04-02T00:48:25.503" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It only seems like driving an oil pump is easy, in reality driving an oil pump is very hard. The biggest issue is the viscosity of the oil especially when it's cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue is, the oil pump is the most critical component of the engine. A bad oil pump leads to engine failure 100% of the time. A bad fan or a bad electric water pump or a bad fuel pump don't lead to immediate engine failure. A mechanically driven oil pump is guaranteed to spin when the engine is spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ware effects of dry engine starts are exaggerated for daily drivers. Overnight the critical components retain enough oil to allow the engine to build oil pressure before engine damage occurs. When engines sit for weeks at a time a shortening of life from a dry start may occur but it is hard to quantify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a good compromise might be to have an electric pump for priming but a mechanical pump for general engine operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T00:48:25.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T02:58:42.693" Score="4" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this weird problem today. The engine will turn fine, but won't start with shifter in Park. Once started in Neutral the motor runs fine with no hesitations. Battery is strong. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16136" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T00:22:12.863" Title="1996 Mustang GT won't start with shifter in Park, but will start in Neutral" Tags="|engine|electrical|ford|automatic-transmission|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27605" CreationDate="2016-04-02T05:06:22.440" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;try this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT H1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this will turn on headers, then do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will get something like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8 06 41 00 BE 3E A8 13&#xA;7E9 06 41 00 98 18 80 13&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which says you are getting results from ECUs 7E8 (engine) and 7E9 (transmission)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;if you are running on an 11bit CAN.  If you get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;18 DA F1 18 06 41 00 88 18 00 13&#xA;18 DA F1 10 06 41 00 BE 5F A8 13&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then its results from ECUs 18DAF110 (engine) and 18DAF118 (transmission) from 29 bit CAN.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you just want to hear from the engine only then issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT CRA 7E8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for 11 bit CAN or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT CRA 18DAF110&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for 29 bit CAN&lt;br&gt;&#xA;dont forget to issue &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT H0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to turn headers back off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10365" LastEditorUserId="10365" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T05:59:10.627" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T05:59:10.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8834" CreationDate="2016-04-02T05:57:33.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check, tighten and clean the main ground coming from the battery. It will be attached to the frame somewhere. You should see a spark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7819" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T05:57:33.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19237" CreationDate="2016-04-02T09:09:54.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Moves..&lt;/em&gt; answer is a good one but you asked about advantages/disadvantages of MAF sensors. Disadvantages are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sensor sits in the intake and thus restricts airflow. Airflow restrictions translate to performance restriction, particularly with vane style air flow meters. A simple example of this is the comparison between a Subaru STI MAF sensor and a standard WRX MAF sensor. Third party ECUs (eg. Microsquirt) recommend using manifold pressure although they can accomodate MAFs if they are to be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dajv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dajv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination. They are sensitive and if you are examining your air filter and see oil on it, it's probably time to clean your MAF sensor as it won't be giving correct readings to your car's ECU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T09:09:54.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27797" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:05:07.720" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The range switch doesn't think the car is in park. On Fords theres an adjustable cable if you look on the driver side of the transmission there will be lever with a cable attached. Sometimes the clip on the cable fails. if the cable is OK pull the lever all the way into park and it should start. If it doesn't you probably need a new range switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifd99.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifd99.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T12:42:56.587" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T12:42:56.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27804" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27805" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" Score="0" Body="A vehicle model of Peugeot." OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T12:46:51.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T13:16:59.157" Score="2" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 honda accord 2.0 litre petrol automatic i have recently noticed that my petrol needle light and temp needle does not light up but all other needles and rest are all light up please can any 1 help me as i am totally stuck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16141" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T17:32:53.917" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T18:09:24.417" Title="Honda accord speedometer petrol needle and temp needle not lighting up" Tags="|honda|accord|odometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27772" CreationDate="2016-04-02T13:45:16.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would make sense that the app isn't able to read ECU data correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/vehicle-list-compatible-obd2/toyota&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; seems to do a decent job of identifying which protocol to use in which vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it doesn't list the Fortuner, a bunch of 2012 vehicles including Camry, Land Cruiser and Yaris are listed as using &lt;code&gt;CAN 11-bit 500 KBaud&lt;/code&gt;, which would suggest to me that the Fortuner uses the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T13:45:16.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27807" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:09:24.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the bulbs have gone out (died) which services the needles which has gone dark. To replace these you'll need to dismantle the dash, which really isn't too hard (procedure found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/13MyFjySfVI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;). When you get the speedo cluster out, find the white plastic backing and remove it. Underneath of it, you should find the bulbs which need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4RHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4RHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to replace all of the bulbs. Most bulbs will last about the same amount of time, so even the ones which have not gone out will probably start going out not soon after. Replacing all of them at once makes it so you shouldn't have to do this same job for quite some time, if ever again while you own the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulbs can be found on ebay or at the Honda parts counter. Ebay is going to be much cheaper, though it may take a few days for you to get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T18:09:24.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27408" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:29:58.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: stiffening one of the sway bars on a car will cause that end to be more likely break loose in response to transients.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a high level, the sway bar acts as a spring just like any other.  You can disassemble the sway bar problem by considering a piece at a time.  For example, imagine that one end of the sway bar is attached to the wheel assembly at one end but is fixed to an immovable point on the other.  If you try to move the wheel assembly up or down suddenly (as would happen with transient bumps and dips in your example), the bar would try to rotate on its pivot points.  If the other end weren't affixed to anything, the bar would obviously just freely rotate.  However, since it is bolted down in this example, the bar acts as a torsion spring, resisting the twisting action.  The further the bar tried to twist, the greater the resulting toque that the bar would exert in the opposite direction.  This is translated into a greater spring force on the wheel assembly itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we don't bolt the ends of sway bars to the frame.  We connect them to suspension points at either end.  As such, they're now coupled to the whole damped spring system that was already there.  Again, if we add a force to one wheel, the sway bar will try to rotate on those pivot points.  This will result in an equivalent force being exerted on the other wheel assembly (if you try to raise the right wheel, the sway bar will try to raise the left wheel).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's where we starting getting into the key points of your question: remember that springs only exert forces when they are moved from their rest state.  For the sake of this discussion, let's stick to linear springs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;F = k * d&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where F = Force, k = the spring constant and d = distance or deflection.  The equivalent for torsion springs is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;T = k * theta&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where T = torque, k = a different spring constant and theta = the angle of twist.  In both of these cases, you can see that the more you compress, extend or twist the spring, the greater the resulting force or torque.  What's more important: if you don't move the spring, there's no force at all.  So, for the sway bar to exert &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; force on the wheel that you're considering, it has to have cause the spring on the other wheel to be deflected (compressed or extended).  This is critical: the sway bar doesn't do anything until it has caused something to happen on the other side of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of saying this is that sway bars make your four wheel independent suspension significantly less independent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's restate your original problem in a way that we can break it down.  Imagine a single pair of wheels with their springs and an attached sway bar.  This is a magic sway bar on which we can dial in a variety of torsion constants (ranging from limp spaghetti to rigid steel I beam).  Now we exert a sideways force on this whole contraption that is just slightly less than the limit of a single tire (i.e., if there were only one tire contact patch on the ground, it would &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; slide, but with two it does not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now turn the magic sway bar down to its near-zero rigidity setting and bump one wheel (e.g., lift its contact patch off the ground suddenly) while the sideways force continues.  The opposing wheel is almost completely unaffected by this bump and so its tire contact patch is undisturbed.  Since we carefully selected the sideways force to be just less than that required to push the tire sideways, the system is unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now set the magic sway bar to effectively infinite rigidity.  Now, when we lift one wheel, the other wheel is likewise raised.  Since both tires lose contact, the whole system starts sliding sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reality is, of course, somewhere in between but this sort of thought experiment makes the point: if you lift one wheel, the sway bar is going to try to raise the other as well.  This results in that whole end of the car feeling like it's breaking loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical real life example: when I had a FWD Integra, I tried this exact experiment.  My rear sway bar had three settings that allowed me to control the stiffness (really they affected the leverage that the rest of the suspension had on the sway bar but the result was effectively the same).  This gave me four possible stiffness settings to experiment: no bar + three increasingly stiff bar choices.  There is one particular off ramp nearby that I could use to try tight &lt;strong&gt;legal&lt;/strong&gt; turns.  What I found was that increasing the stiffness would decrease the quality of the ride over bumps and increase the feeling that the back end would hop out (try to oversteer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T18:29:58.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27942" CreationDate="2016-04-02T18:45:33.120" Score="14" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a pair of EBC Red Stuff front brake pads for my Audi S4 from a supplier whose name I will keep anonymous for now. I opened up the box and everything seemed in place except a weird feeling about how the brakes have been packaged and more importantly, how the actual pads looked like. The labels seemed very fragile to touch, and would start fading as soon as I lay my finger on them. I also found minor paint chips, which to be honest didn't bother me too much but I still noticed them. And finally, most important observation, the pads looked a bit different than what I have seen on other web sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I ask for some help from the community to help me identify if this is a counterfeit. I am attaching a few photos below.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X04S5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X04S5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2eFz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2eFz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oEoKg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oEoKg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHaIb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHaIb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hBfe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hBfe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T19:26:46.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:15:21.747" Title="Do these EBC brake pads look like a counterfeit?" Tags="|brakes|audi|s4|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27829" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:01:51.923" Score="6" ViewCount="3677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took my 98 Mazda 626 for it's inspection and they said the carbon monoxide is slightly high.  The test is done using a tail pipe gas analyzer while holding the RPMs between 2500 - 2800 for thirty seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-20.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From what I've read&lt;/a&gt;, this is normally an indication that something is causing the engine to run rich:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carbon monoxide (CO), is incompletely burned fuel or to be more precise are hydrocarbon molecules that split apart but don't burn in the combustion cycle. High (CO) is the result of one problem, a rich air/fuel mixture but may have several causes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My CO reading was 0.6% by volume, with the manufacturer's limit being 0.3%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The was no problem with NOx emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, during this test they also take a Lambda reading.  My reading was slightly lean at 1.021, with the limit being 1.03.  This reading seems reasonable as my fuel trims are close to zero.  According what I've read in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1932494421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engine Management: Advanced Tuning&lt;/a&gt;, this slightly lean lambda is a very reasonable target for steady state cruising conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For best economy we swing to the other side of the stoichiometric balance with a target of about Lambda = 1.05 ( about 15.5:1 A/F ). ... To achieve this, we mix just enough fuel that, if burned completely, makes enough power to maintain current conditions with enough excess oxygen to ensure that no fuel molecules go unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on the objective readings of the gas analyzer I'm running both rich and lean at the same time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for anyone who's been following the adventures of my 626 project, you'll know that I've got a brand new O2 sensor, and that I had been having problems with hesitation, lack of power and rough idle.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23671/7132&quot;&gt;These problems were greatly improved, but not eliminated&lt;/a&gt;, by replacing my standard spark plugs with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark-plugs/g-power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fine tip low voltage NGK g-power plugs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now  I think these things are related.  Having both incompletely burnt fuel and excess oxygen says to me that I'm getting poor / weak ignition of the A/F mixture, causing a slow, incomplete burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a spark tester at night set to a 30kv gap which produced a weak thin looking orange spark, when based on folk wisdom I should be getting a thick bluish / white spark.  I've tested resistance on my wires and they're all in spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that I've got a weak ignition coil. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/27321/7132&quot;&gt;Mazda WSM calls for three tests of the coil pack&lt;/a&gt;.  The primary and secondary resistances are in spec, although it takes a second or two for the reading on the primary coil to settle. It's starts high and then slowly settles to the correct value of between 0.45 to 0.55 ohms. I was unable to do the third test, which is the &quot;Insulation Resistance of Case&quot; test calling to measure resistance between the ground terminal and the case with a &quot;500 v Mega tester&quot;.   I was also unable to do the conductance test &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/26860/7132&quot;&gt;suggested by another user&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The I've checked pretty much everything else under the sun, and this is the only thing that's making sense to me, so I ordered one which should be here in about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to hear what people think about my theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Postscript April 8th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went in to do the test again today, and it passed emissions this time. This time my lambda was 1.009 and the CO was 0.1%.  I'm not completely sure why, so I'll just list everything that was different.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, I had recently installed a fuel pressure gauge and had to remove the air intake hose.  I forgot to tighten down the band where the hose meets the throttle body, so I tightened it down.  It might be that a tiny bit of air was getting in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I did the test I was idling in line for 20 minutes and they read engine temp as 126 C*.  This time I went straight in, it was 96 C*, and they had me rev the engine hard three times before starting the test, and also had me rev up to 3000, although their equipment showed 2770.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post-Post Script March 3rd, 2017&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thought I'd follow up again after this years emissions test.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it failed emissions again when I went for the test last week, but just barely.  Idling at 670 rpm according to their equipment, CO was at 0.51% with a maximum allowed of 0.50%, so it just barely failed there.  Held at 2770 rpm and measuring 80*C both according to their equipment for 30 seconds the lambda read 1.017 which was fine, but the CO read 0.46% with a max allowed of 0.3%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reviewing what @FredWilson wrote here last year, I figured that since 98% of my driving is low speed, low rpm in the city, maybe taking the car for a high rpm drive on the highway for 15 minutes might burn off any carbon or sulfur that was interfering with the cat's performance.  So I did that and went for a retest ( a week after the first test ).  This time it read 0.04% idling at 670 rpm. At 2770 rpm and 91*C according to their equipment they read a 1.014 lamba and 0.18% CO, so it passed this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some side notes;  on the second test I was again very close to 3000 rpm according to my tac, which makes me think there is a problem with their equipment maxing out at 2770 rpm.  Also, the first time I did the test the car was idling pretty rough, while, for no apparent reason the idle was much smoother the second time I did the test.  Not sure if this was a contributing factor, or just coincidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T10:46:03.520" Title="Emissions Problem: Lambda AND CO Slightly High on my 98 Mazda 626" Tags="|ignition|rough-idle|emissions|hesitation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:02:44.203" Score="6" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMW 320i 2008. When I turn on the hot air and Automatic recycle, after a point, it blows cold air for 5-10 mins, then back to hot and so on. &#xA;This doesn't occur when I put the recycle on.&#xA;Any clues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16144" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:15:48.140" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T00:51:23.797" Title="Why does the air conditioning suddenly blow cold air?" Tags="|ac|bmw|hvac|climate-control|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:10:10.143" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see two differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EBC website&lt;/a&gt; shows a 3D view of the brake pads, which show a different shape for the black region. This may be because you have a different brake pad shape from the one in the 3D view.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;brake-in coating&quot; tri-color tone also seems like it's missing from your images.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF6QZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF6QZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;EBC Red Stuff back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEfj5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEfj5.png&quot; alt=&quot;EBC Red Stuff&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's hard to conclude anything based on the images alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would reach out to EBC and have them confirm whether they deem it to be legitimate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T19:27:34.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T19:27:34.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:15:14.097" Score="21" ViewCount="88476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a story that a weak vehicle battery can destroy an alternator or cause an alternator to fail early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true, or is it largely fiction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T00:59:53.037" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T07:54:16.420" Title="Can a weak battery destroy an alternator?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27408" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:54:22.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Adding a sway bar will result in a harsher ride&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've tried to explain the mechanics with this side-by-side graphic&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuYe3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuYe3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graphical Representation of what the sway bar does&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Explanation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When a wheel encounters a ditch, the weight of the vehicle on that wheel will cause it to deflect downwards. This causes the suspension spring to extend, causing a resistive force to act in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding a sway bar introduces an additional resistive force in the mix, which reduces the amount of spring-resistive force. This results in a smaller spring deflection compared to when no sway bar was present.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less spring deflection means that the vehicle body will want to follow the wheel into the pothole more than when the sway bar was not present.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Since a picture's worth a thousand words&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is the effect of the sway bar&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SaDs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SaDs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Escape graphic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's little surprise that sway bars and off-roading rarely go together&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You want the chassis to be a little twistable and flexible.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else parts would break under duress quite readily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvz5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvz5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;By Jon Geddes - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7496907&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T20:02:01.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T20:02:01.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27812" CreationDate="2016-04-02T20:35:33.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The data doesn't support it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You measured your coil resistances to be within spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You measured your wire resistances to be within spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've already replaced the plugs with ones that require less voltage to operate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while the bad-coil theory may explain what's going on, I'm not confident it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible explanations for the readings obtained&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exhaust leak&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fine crack in the exhaust manifold or compromised head gasket could introduce oxygen to the exhaust stream. This could explain why lambda is slightly lean even though there are higher-than-expected levels of CO present.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad cats&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ineffective three-way catalytic converter may not be scrubbing residual CO out of the exhaust. If your emissions report has NOx readings this may help to confirm/rule out this possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Systematic measurement uncertainty&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the emissions analyzer is reporting the CO &amp;amp; lambda values with some systematic error. Let's hope this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T20:35:33.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27820" CreationDate="2016-04-02T20:51:40.967" Score="3" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just through replacing the catalytic converters on an 06 Ford Expedition with about 151k miles on it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/27127/4152&quot;&gt;To break in new cats&lt;/a&gt;, you must run it at idle for about 5 minutes, then increase the engine speed to 2500 for two minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I broke the cats in just fine, then let everything cool down for about 15 minutes. I took it out for a drive of about 5 minutes. Everything seems fine. When I got it back to the house, I parked the truck and while sitting, tried to rev the engine up, but it would only go to 2500 rpm (well maybe just a little over it). It acted like there was a engine rev limiter keeping it at this speed (bounced a little above/below) for about 10 seconds, the settled out to an even 2500 rpm &lt;em&gt;even with the pedal planted on the floor&lt;/em&gt;. I thought there might be an issue with it, so I took it out for a drive again. I nailed the accelerator and it hopped right up past 4500 rpm without an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is this normal behavior for Ford vehicles with drive by wire?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Or maybe just for Expeditions? If it is, has Ford given a reason for programming their vehicles this way? Personally, if I want to rev my engine to the moon, I want the system to allow me to do it. Only allowing the engine to rev to 2500 makes me think there are other issues with the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T21:20:44.063" Title="Engine won't rev past 2500 in Park/Neutral" Tags="|engine|ford|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27819" CreationDate="2016-04-02T21:20:44.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is normal behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've test-driven a 2010 Ford Explorer; when the car is in P it will not allow you to go past 2500 rpm. When in D, no such limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T21:20:44.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27685" CreationDate="2016-04-02T22:25:48.493" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an excellent question, and absolutely correct that there is no linear relationship between the miles driven and the amount of wear on the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For machines which don't move much, or which move forward/reverse/idle in equal amounts, an odometer doesn't offer much additional information about how the machine was used.  Thus these types of machines are fitted with an hour meter which gives a clearer representation of usage (although still not the full picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with a standard passenger automobile, it's assumed that &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of the vehicle's usage involves moving in a forward direction, with negligible reverse and idle states. (Note that some odometers even count up when moving in reverse.) Therefore, an odometer reflects &lt;em&gt;typical&lt;/em&gt; usage of a passenger automobile reasonably well, although extreme cases and usage (cold starts, long idles, many miles driven in reverse, highway vs urban miles) may not be reflected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, an odometer reading is &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the primary factors in deciding a vehicle's condition.  This indicates that the odometer reading becomes more useful when considered &lt;em&gt;in the context&lt;/em&gt; of other primary factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you mentioned that highway miles effect less wear on the engine than urban miles.  Thus, comparing the mileage driven with the &lt;em&gt;year of manufacture&lt;/em&gt; can give a clue whether the vehicle was mainly driven on highways or in an urban setting.  Conversely, hours of operation or total kW output of the engine may fail to yield this clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, odometer readings do give reasonable wear information about the parts which have a linear relationship to motion.  Tires, wheel bearings, drive train, etc share this approximate linear relationship.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, relying solely on odometer readings is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a good indicator of wear for some parts. For example, basing engine maintenance schedules only on odometer readings will yield less accurate results due to the absence of usage context, and for this reason newer ECUs rely less on the odometer and more on driving habits and usage to trigger maintenance reminders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, odometer readings are helpful directly to indicate wear in some areas, and can be used along with other primary factors to yield clues about non-linear wear, thus improving the accuracy of a broad array of wear factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T22:25:48.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2016-04-02T22:37:25.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just by going off the print quality of the silk screens shown in EBC's website images versus the ones on the actual break pads.  I'd conclude they are made in an inferior factory. They are most likely counterfeit parts that were actually made in China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16148" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T03:15:03.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T03:15:03.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2016-04-02T22:54:54.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That 'C' out of line (and the font looks a bit different) is suspicious. Most companies are super-picky about their logos. Quality of printing is terrible, and I would assume a real manufacturer would use printing that would withstand a bit of brake cleaner let alone a bit of finger smooshing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printing looks a bit like it was something like pad printing or screen printing faked to imitate computer printing- the lines are all askew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have good reason for suspicion, IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12112" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T22:54:54.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T02:28:01.890" Score="2" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I was driving, my cars automatic transmission suddenly would not work in drive or reverse but the motor was still running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know what the problem could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16153" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T15:08:13.707" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T15:08:13.707" Title="Auto transmission just stopped working while I was driving" Tags="|automatic-transmission|troubleshooting|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27812" CreationDate="2016-04-03T04:15:17.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The average gas engine exhausts between 1 and 1.5 CO during normal combustion at stoiciometric mixture (lambda 1.00). The catalysts is expected to burn this excess CO. So if there is .6% at the tailpipe then the most likely cause is a catalyst that is either not lit or the mixture is out of the catalysts working mixture range. The farther the mixture gets from lambda 1:000 the harder it gets for the catalyst to clean all the gasses. At 2% lean CO and HC should be easily combusted by a good quality, fully lit, catalyst. NOx would not be reduced very well at all. If the mixture was 2% rich the situation would be reversed. NOx is reduced better but CO and HC would not burn well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the readings obtained are accurate the CO is not an indication of a lean mixture. If there are no exhaust leaks and the lambda reading is correct the engine is running lean. Optimal catalyst efficiency is found between lambda .995 and 1.005. Most systems maintain lambda well inside this range in most driving conditions. Again assuming the stated values are correct the catalyst is either not lit or failing and the system is doing a poor job of fuel control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T04:15:17.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27815" CreationDate="2016-04-03T06:02:32.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A battery that has an internal electrical short, usually one of the plates has come loose and is touching its neighboring plate will cause the alternator to work much harder than normal. This can shorten the life of the alternator. This condition is usually discovered quickly as the battery will not function well in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When alternators or motors work harder they produce more heat. The alternator damage in this scenario is caused by heat. The insulation on the rotor windings can be damaged. The grease in the bearings can be overheated to name a couple of problems. Most alternators are designed to produce the maximum rated power for only short periods. The system design is for the alternator to charge the battery for a less than five minutes and then drop to a charge rate of less than 10% of its maximum rated power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T01:24:27.910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T01:24:27.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2016-04-03T08:42:32.637" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checked EBC website  &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cross-drilled-rotors/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;There was a question on cross drilled rotors, that were represented as genuine EBC brand. Here is the last sentence of their reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have any doubts that you are being supplied genuine EBC Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;products contact EBC Brakes immediately for an opinion on&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;warranty@ebcbrakes.com&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend sending your concerns, along with the photos to them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T08:42:32.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T10:08:34.510" Score="0" ViewCount="2901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in South Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 160E Honda Ballade ABS and a D16A8 motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to go VTEC BT, not sure if I can go F18 SOHC VTEC, replacing the engine and gearbox and management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to put a VTEC system on the D16 DOHC without going to the B-series?  South Africa stock on B-series is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16156" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T16:49:39.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T12:44:17.543" Title="How to go VTEC with a D16A8 DOHC engine" Tags="|engine|honda|vtec|modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-08T15:45:43.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27815" CreationDate="2016-04-03T12:02:06.800" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is difficult to answer without you knowing the inner workings of an alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basics. If you move a magnetic field near a coil of wire the electrons in the wire get excited and electricity will be made. The amount of electricity made depends on the size of the magnetic field and its speed. The bigger the field and the faster it's moving the more electricity is made. Also if you have a coil of wire and you pass a current through it it will create a magnetic field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternator has 4 basic components; rotor, stator, voltage regulator and bridge rectifier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rotor is the part that spins. On the rotor there is a coil of wire. By sending a current down that wire a magnetic field is created. Then by spinning the rotor a moving magnetic field is created. Because the rotor is spinning, devices known as slip rings are needed to send uninterrupted current to the rotor. The slip rings are solid brass or copper rings that have stationary spring-loaded carbon brushes riding on them.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The voltage regulator controls the system voltage. The voltage regulator sends current to the rotor through the carbon brushes and slip rings. They work in tandem. If the system voltage is low the voltage regulator will send more current to the rotor. If the system voltage is too high the voltage regulator will send less current to the rotor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stator is the stationary coil of wire that is excited by the spinning magnetic field of the rotor. In reality there are 3 separate coils of wire in the stator separated by 120 degrees. The output of the stator is alternating current (AC).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bridge rectifier then converts the AC into direct current (DC) that the car can use. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole system is designed to do two things. First, refill the battery after it cranks the engine. Second, supply power to the rest of the car. The way the whole thing works together is that the voltage regulator senses the voltage of the system and adjust the rotor current accordingly. When for example the head lights are flipped on this presents a greater load and lowers the system voltage. The voltage regulator senses this and adjust the rotor current accordingly. Then you go to pass someone on the highway and mash down the gas pedal. This speeds up the engine and the system voltage will go up. The voltage regulator lowers the rotor current to bring the system voltage down. This cat-and-mouse game constantly goes on in the charging system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an alternator is rated for a particular current output, lets say 100 amps, that rating is at 2000 RPM. The alternator can comfortably make 100A at 2000 RPM. It is designed that way because typical cruise is around 2000 RPM. At idle, the rotor is spinning slower and the alternator is incapable of making it's full rated current. At idle, is when a charging system can get into trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A battery is a pig. A battery will take all the current it wants and no less. The current it want is proportional to its state of charge. A discharged or weak battery is very hungry for current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To bring it all together, when a car has a weak battery that battery will want lots of current. The current demand of the battery lowers the system voltage so the voltage regulator compensates by sending more current through the rotor. At idle, the alternator is incapable of making the needed current. Because of this the system voltage drops even more and the voltage regulator sends the maximum current through the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This maximum-load, minimum-speed condition is where the wear happens. At the minimum speed the minimum amount of cooling is available from the built-in fan. At the maximum load the voltage regulator will push the maximum amount of current through the rotor and through the brushes and slip rings. The brushes and slip rings get hot and with no additional cooling available from the fan they will wear faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the RPM is increased to above 2000 the situation gets better because more cooling is available and the current through the rotor decreases. This will unfortunately move the wear point from the brushes to the bridge rectifier because now it has to rectify the maximum current. This is preferable, however, as the bridge rectifier is a solid state component and is much less subject to wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="36991" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T08:36:29.240" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T08:36:29.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T14:33:18.407" Score="5" ViewCount="2051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kindly assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1GFE engine had a rod knock sound and I replaced all the bearings, oil filter, cleaned the sump &amp;amp; strainer and tolled it with brand new fully synthetic oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine ran for about two hours and the rod knock sound came back, what could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16160" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T17:12:30.250" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T19:24:10.537" Title="Rod knock in my engine?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|connecting-rod|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27843" CreationDate="2016-04-03T15:33:41.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1066" Body="&lt;p&gt;One door lock in my Vibe is acting up. This started soon after I activated the child-safety lock for the first time, but I don't know for sure whether that was the trigger for the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zo2Nl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zo2Nl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vibe rear door lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: The lock is no longer affected by the remote. The door otherwise functions almost normally. I can open from the outside. I can open from the inside, but only if the child safety lock is not activated. The remote door lock locks the three other doors (plus hatch) just fine, but does not lock or unlock that rear door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, the lock is sometimes stuck and refuses to be moved manually (I am avoiding forcing it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you fixed something like this on either a Pontiac Vibe or a Toyota Matrix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T10:39:15.610" Title="Vibe: Rear door lock no longer affected by remote" Tags="|locks|door|vibe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27840" CreationDate="2016-04-03T17:13:07.557" Score="7" ViewCount="3071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my struts, strut mounts and tie rod ends, then went and got an alignment before taking my car to it's inspection.  At the inspection, they found that the nuts for the tie rod ends hadn't been tightened after the alignment and that one of my LCA bushings was torn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the guys who did the alignment should have properly tightened those nuts ( not the lock nuts, the one's under the joints ).  However, is it reasonable to expect that they should have noticed the torn LCA bushings and not done the alignment?   Do I need to do a new alignment after replacing the bushing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T02:18:18.657" Title="Alignment and Lower Control Arm Bushings" Tags="|suspension|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T21:11:07.437" Score="6" ViewCount="5668" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2003 Buick Century and it has been leaking for the past few months &lt;strong&gt;(puddles of coolant under the car).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the car begins to have white smoke coming from the engine and it has a sweet smell so I'm sure it is coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I topped off my coolant and filled a little into the reservoir tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The very next day I saw the white smoke and my reservoir tank was empty.&#xA;I removed the upper radiator hose yesterday to see coolant sitting in the radiator, this means it is clogged right?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked both hoses and I see no leaks/holes/ anyware, I still may take it somewhere for a pressure test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a new radiator and I'm going to install it once it arrives. My radiator cap is fine as well and I'm sure my thermostat and water pump are ok but I could of course be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ,the car does not overheat as the white smoke comes out, it hasn't overheated at all in fact. The gauge stay in the middle and gets lower as I drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been driving it sadly because I have to get to work but yesterday and today not as much.  White smoke was coming from the engine as before.  The smoke is coming from the upper radiator hose and that is where it seems to be clogged at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any idea on the the problem?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T00:43:46.257" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T03:02:30.380" Title="Radiator has a leak and the upper hose is clogged, car does not overheat. White smoke from upper hose" Tags="|engine|coolant|cooling-system|radiator|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2016-04-03T22:54:02.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no standard fitting for relay mounts, and so thus the generic hole. Hella makes a 20/40 amp &lt;a href=&quot;http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/relays/mini-iso-relays/work-lamp-category-12/electrics-product-19/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mini SPDT&lt;/a&gt; that has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75605/SKIRTED-MINI-RELAY-20-40A-SPDT/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal bracket&lt;/a&gt; rather than a plastic bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dr4x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dr4x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell connectors with pigtails with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75610/ISO-Mini-Weatherproof-Relay/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;weatherproof&lt;/a&gt; fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OiLUt.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OiLUt.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T22:54:02.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27836" CreationDate="2016-04-03T23:13:49.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it reasonable to expect that they should have noticed the torn LCA bushings and not done the alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is reasonable to expect they should have noticed, but not unreasonable to realize everything will get noticed. I had my 72 Chevelle aligned once. The guy worked and worked on it trying to get the alignment right. Finally he kind of gave up and said it was the best he could do. I found out not long after the lower ball joints were shot, so got them replaced. He had never noticed an issue, which is about as odd as your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is doubly weird in that if shops in Israel are anything like the shops here, the mechanics get a higher percentage from add-on work (work which the car didn't come into the shop for, but was noticed as needing done by the mechanic). It only makes sense they bring this type of work up as they can make more money per hour on it than regular work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to do a new alignment after replacing the bushing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you change suspension parts, you should get your alignment done. If the worn bushings give an extra 3° on either side to make up for it (exaggeration), then when you get the new bushings put in it will throw things way out of whack. Maybe if you talk to the shop where the alignment was done at, you can tell them what the issue is. They may check the alignment or give you a new alignment at a discounted rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T23:13:49.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25257" CreationDate="2016-04-04T09:51:20.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think modifying the OBD-II port is &lt;strong&gt;complete overkill&lt;/strong&gt; to deal with a possible theft issue. In addition to being a tricky issue as to how exactly to modify it, as the other answer points out, it may actually be illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have had to leave cars unattended and I have had some concern about possible theft, I usually unplug a component in the ignition system. My understanding about how cars are stolen (not that I've ever done it!) is that thieves want to spend minimal time making the attempt. No thief is going to sit in the car continually cranking the engine for minutes and then set about troubleshooting an apparent electrical problem. They will simply move on elsewhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastEditorUserId="3138" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:20:11.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:20:11.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25257" CreationDate="2016-04-04T10:37:32.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was as worried as you seem to be about this, which I am not, I'd probably do the following;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to a breakers yard and buy the OBD II port from a similar model.  I'd then unscrew the existing port and push it back into the recess of the dashboard, then fit the new dummy port in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, add an aftermarket security measure such as an alarm, immobilizer or even physical security measure.  Just something which isn't controlled by the OBD II port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T10:37:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27835" CreationDate="2016-04-04T10:39:15.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like either the solenoid that activates the lock has failed, or the linkage connecting them has come adrift, or there is a problem with the wiring going to the solenoid - the solenoid failing is usually the most common of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have to remove the door trim (either get a manual or look on youtube for a guide), in order to get access to the solenoid. Unfortunately they're often still awkward to get to, as the crash structure of the door gets in the way... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a dislodged linkage that should be obvious straight away - a failed solenoid will probably look fine from the outside, but simply not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T10:39:15.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25257" CreationDate="2016-04-04T11:38:35.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need to &quot;Re-Engineer&quot; an adapter once you accomplish &quot;Disabling&quot; your OBD-2 port. How you do that, is honestly up to your judgement. Depending on the vehicle they also have factory ports in very odd locations. Nissan, Toyota and a few European brands are known for this. Vehicle hacking is becoming a real thing that people DO have to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attend Defcon and last year they added their car hacking village. Here are some videos about it. These guys REALLY know how this stuff works. I'm currently working on my own project because of these guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OobLb1McxnI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Car Hacking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also explain a little bit about how to protect yourself correctly from being a victim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as changing your pins to thwart a thief's attempts at getting into a car or to damage their tool. Most of the car hackers out there and things I've seen on darknet websites all use Rasberry Pi type devices WHICH use self correcting signal. It probably wouldn't even work if you did that. You'd essentially just be doing it for no reason or for your own reassurance. As someone who works with security and have been for years; There isn't much you can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would suggest is disable your keyless entry (The other guy mentioned that). You could disable the engine bay factory port. If you have GPS, disable that because COM systems are why Chrysler recalled millions of cars. These are honestly the only options you could within reason, use to secure your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it seems a bit like you don't fully understand how involved this process is and how long it takes to &quot;Hack&quot; a vehicle. They need entry to the vehicle first. They then need to apply their method of &quot;hacking&quot; to the car. Then manage to get away with this. Every make and model is different and there are no universal &quot;tools&quot; for this on the open market, or black market. I do analytics for work and keep up to date with this as much as possible. They would essentially have to research and engineer a tool for a specific Make and model for it to work efficiently. That takes MONTHS. Unless you own a contract with the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To essentially answer what you're asking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will switching the pins damage their tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely no. Especially with today's modern circuit boards and their processors that can route electrical signal if data collision occurs. You'll find this a lot in networking equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else can you suggest&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can suggest is to disable your keyless entry, disable the engine bay factory ECU plug, and any COM systems that can be accessed wirelessly. Quite a few CAN data bus systems are implementing 802.11 into their vehicles and that's just another attack vector. If you have a really nice modern car, you might have something like that in your car. My Hyundai Genesis uses 802.11n and connects directly to the CAN from the radio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, unless you're driving a $250,000 car I don't think you should worry yourself too much unless you just want a project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.defcon.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Defcon Website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the defcon website. I hope I gave something that can help you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:38:35.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27847" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:47:19.423" Score="10" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow-up question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27319/seized-nut-bolt-difficult-to-access&quot;&gt;Seized nut &amp;amp; bolt - difficult to access&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened - or what did I do wrong - for this bolt to lose its thread in this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply doing it up too tightly? Is that all it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWoen.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWoen.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt with worn thread&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:13:38.857" Title="Thread on bolt - what happened?" Tags="|stuck-bolt|stripped-thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27846" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:13:38.857" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like it has been over-tightened, beyond the point of failure of the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T14:13:38.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27849" CreationDate="2016-04-04T14:44:18.327" Score="8" ViewCount="5715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would there be any electrical issues if a grounding point had a bolt welded and powder-coated or is it better to drill a hole, weld a nut to the frame and then powder-coated?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T16:11:21.687" Title="Will a ground to the frame work properly if the bolt is powder-coated?" Tags="|electrical|frame|hotrod|powder-coating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27848" CreationDate="2016-04-04T15:17:01.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no metal to metal contact, there is no ground.  That applies to both of your scenarios.  The powder-coating will act as an insulator.  Personally, I would drill the hole in the frame, install a bolt through the hole.  Powder-coat that so that there is a bare spot under the head of the bolt that doesn't get covered.  Then use that bolt to install your ground so it is pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T15:17:01.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T15:47:37.063" Score="11" ViewCount="3221" Body="&lt;p&gt;While stopped at a railroad crossing in my A/T Honda CRV with my car in Drive and my foot on the brake; does my car eventually go into Neutral on its own if I'm there for while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16172" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T17:12:20.253" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T06:10:58.137" Title="Do cars go from Drive to Neutral on their own?" Tags="|honda|transmission|crv|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27850" CreationDate="2016-04-04T16:06:38.530" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, no. I've never seen this behavior before in any auto I've ever driven or read about. I think it would be a safety issue if it did. If you needed to move suddenly (for whatever reason), pulled your foot off the brake pedal expecting the car to move, and it does nothing but rev the engine at you. This could be extremely dangerous on an incline, as well. You would start rolling back. Your average driver would not know how to react in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T16:06:38.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2016-04-04T16:10:15.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating a bearing beyond 300 degrees Fahrenheit will likely compromise the bearing by changing the metallurgic structure of the component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180* is usually adequate, and 250* is a good max to work with. The important thing is to use a rose-bud with a torch (not a regular tip) or an induction heater and heat the component evenly but focus the heat around the key-way if there is one. Remember that the steel expansion rate is about 6 mils/inch dia/100 degree F&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have everything in place beforehand, as you will only have a few seconds to install the bearing once it reaches the appropriate temperature. An infrared thermometer will aid greatly in this endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T16:10:15.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27848" CreationDate="2016-04-04T16:11:21.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You could run a tap through the bolt after powder coating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add a step to your process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everything is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nut welded to frame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complete Powder coating&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Run a tap through the nut to clear out any powder coating&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in the threads so you have good metal to metal contact with your grounding bolt.  The tap should not have any negative effect on the nut, it should just clear out any powder coating that got powder coating sprayed into the threads and baked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, you will have good metal to metal contact for your new ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image of a tap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEuGP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEuGP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T16:11:21.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27850" CreationDate="2016-04-04T19:33:38.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've driven a few automatic Opel Vectra's (2003 model) and they all had something of what you describe. The transmissions were somehow smartly adaptive to my recent driving style (sporty or cruising).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that, when stopping briefly, they would respond immediately to the gas - but when stopping for more than maybe 20 seconds (and keeping pressure on the brake), they would sort of &quot;open the clutch&quot; and take longer to get going again. I believe that's a feature to protect the automatic clutch from undue wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - it's not really &quot;Neutral&quot; but it seems to be like pressing the clutch in a stick shift, basically achieving the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T19:33:38.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38054" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:01:21.263" Score="8" ViewCount="11870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did search &quot;jack stand&quot; and there are lots of posts that get close, but nothing that really covers the specifics of what I'm looking for here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 143k mile on it. My garage is not terribly wide and I need to jack up just the front to work on the brake calipers and pads. The normal jacking points according to the manual (Chilton's, etc), and according to the Toyota owners manual, is between two notches along the weld on the frame rail just inside of each wheel (just behind the front wheels, and ahead of the rear wheels).&#xA; &lt;strong&gt;This is for a different model Toyota&lt;/strong&gt;, but the jack point positions are essentially the the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DB2du.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DB2du.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Jack Points&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine is also at the pinch weld. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I want to jack the front up all at once. I found a place on the frame and used a scrap 2x4 to cushion the frame from the floor jack. Since I need to hold up the front end, but due to the narrow garage I can't get under the passenger side to place that jack stand I need to find a place under the frame to put both stands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the rubber pads to protect the pinch welds for my stands. Do I need something else / better to protect the frame? I'm nervous about using that 2x4 because that seems very unstable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where on the frame can I place the stands? They have to be far enough apart to evenly support the frame, and that means wide placement. It's a front wheel drive car so things get complicated for finding strong frame points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a practical limit to how high I can jack the car? The stands are on the floor with nothing between them and the concrete garage floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since I'm only using the stands with nothing between them and the frame, can I go high enough that I risk the car rolling backwards off the stands? (Granted, I do chock the rear wheels while doing this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T12:22:14.610" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T12:22:14.610" Title="Jack stand placement on frame rail for 2000 Toyota Camry" Tags="|safety|jack|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27874" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:11:57.317" Score="7" ViewCount="4843" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another recent question got me thinking about this. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27848/will-a-ground-to-the-frame-work-properly-if-the-bolt-is-powder-coated&quot;&gt;Will a ground to the frame work properly if the bolt is powder-coated?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have any skill, tools, or ability to powder coat, whats the best way to make a ground connection to the frame or block in a way that will prevent rust or corrosion from forming? Maybe a different way to ask is this: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there a chemical coating or treatment that can be applied to a clean, metal to metal, soldered and crimped ring lug ground connection that will prevent rust or corrosion from breaking the connection? I'm thinking of the screw holding the ring lug and the bare metal beneath it rusting and how to prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking in general, but the application would be for a 2000 Toyota Camry with 142k miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:26:06.387" Title="Is there something that can be applied to electrical connections to prevent rust and corrosion?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|rust|corrosion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:26:08.407" Score="3" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my car in to have a front bumper repaired on a 2010 Nissan Rogue.  The bodyshop took almost 3 weeks before they actually got it right.  The paint was off and from the original from the beginning.  Afters I took the car in for a buff and hand wax after I got the car back.  I noticed over the weekend there is a crack in the bumper the same side the bodyshop had so much trouble trying to repair. The bodyshop ordered a OEM bumper.  My question is would the bumper still be under warranty and would the bodyshop still be responsible for repairing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T20:26:08.407" Title="Bumper cracked after 6 months being repaired at bodyshop" Tags="|nissan|parts|bumper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T14:12:37.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T21:06:13.240" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's like it floods every time. I have to put the gas to the floor in turn the key in order to get it running. I can let it run for however long and then turn it off. Then when I go to try to start it again it does the same thing it tries to turn over but it won't. Again I have to push the gas to the floor and turn the key to get it started. Any suggestions on what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16176" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T22:35:32.393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T00:58:51.467" Title="1993 Jeep Cherokee tries to turn over but wont" Tags="|starting|jeep|cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2016-04-04T22:05:01.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;last&lt;/strong&gt; thing you want to do is have someone drive  your car every few weeks.  What's important is that the last time you drove your car before putting it to sleep for five months is that you drove at least 15-18 miles on the highway,  long enough to get the oil hot enough to stave off water vapor/condensation,  which forms carbonic acid, sludge, varnish.   An old mechanic's test was to place your hand on the bottom of your oil pan (sump).   If too hot to keep there more'n a fraction of a second,  you're A-OK for the duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While still warm,  put a plastic bag secured by rubber band around the end of your exhaust pipe(s).   Either disconnect your battery,  or better still,  install a good quality battery disconnect switch.   Just make sure it's rated for more amps than your starter draws.   I used &amp;amp; use a Cole Hersee switch,  which i bought from our local NAPA auto parts store in my Packards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Chevron engineer told us any gasoline (any brand,  it's all like aspirin) should be good for at least a year if it is stored where the temperature remains below 80 degrees.  A friend had fully two-year-old gas in one of his Delahayes and it started right up,  ran fine.   I do use Stabil as precaution,  and have heard that marine Stabil even better,  but have read no vetted tech papers on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regular type antifreeze goes bad,  becomes acidic after two or three years,  so if you absolutely must use antifreeze,  make sure your change it no longer than every third year.   You need antifreeze only if your car will suffer a hard freeze,  or if it has air conditioning,  in which case you need 15% antifreeze just to protect the heater core from freeing even in August in LA or Phoenix.    Don't use distilled water,  which is ion hungry and leaches minerals ---like lead, tin,  solder from your radiator.   Just use soft water and a good quality rust and corrosion inhibitor.   I like No-Rosion,  tho'  Red Line's product is also good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A late friend's '54 Ferrari Testarossa sat seven months between vintage races with no ill effects and he didn't jack his car up while in storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nethercutt Collection in California drives each car in their collection just twice a year,  every six months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider DOT-5 silicon brake fluid in any car you really care about,  since this product is non-hydroscopic,  does not absorb moisture from the ambient air,  which is what corrodes master and wheel cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you or someone responsible is around in your absence,  it doesn't hurt to rock the car up and down a few times every few weeks,  perhaps tap the brake pedal a few times,   but these two items are optional,  and we're now getting into &lt;em&gt;&quot;Zen and the Art of Hibernating Car Maintenance.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your car's garaged and covered,  you don't have to worry about UV rays and heat degrading your tires.   Have never understood people extolling  &quot;heated garages.&quot;    Heat exacerbates any chemical reaction,  like rust.  If you're going to drive a nice car in cold, dry weather,   an unheated garage but a block heater for the engine,  or a high temperature lamp(s) under the radiator and sump sound like a better idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16179" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T22:28:43.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T22:28:43.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27864" CreationDate="2016-04-04T22:37:41.670" Score="7" ViewCount="9758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Peugeot 405. At first I was using 20w-50 engine oils but &#xA;The last time I went for changing the engine oil I used 10w-40. After that The engine temperature rises constantly and (even when it's cold outside) and after the second fan starts it'll cool down immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check radiator water constantly and refill it if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the engine oil affect engine temperature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T23:45:07.467" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T08:11:53.243" Title="Can engine oil type cause a car to overheat?" Tags="|engine|oil|engine-theory|oil-change|overheating|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27947" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:06:39.860" Score="16" ViewCount="7900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my windshield replaced last week, and then this week this black rectangular plastic thing dropped in front of me.  Held in place by a wire attached to it going under the headliner - length of wire about 1&quot;.  The thing is about 6-7&quot; long, 3/4&quot; high, 3/8&quot; thick, more or less.  It had been held in place on the inside of the windshield by double stick tape.  This is a 2015 Honda Accord V6 with &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; add-ons (Lojack, etc.).  (It does have standard collision detect and lane departure warnings.  Doesn't have adaptive cruise control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7VyQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7VyQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In the picture above, I've stuck it back on the windshield with the double stick tape.  You can see the wire above it going under the headliner, this wire is about 1/8&quot;-3/16&quot; thick.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly believe I had never seen the thing attached to the inside of the windshield, ever - I've had the car a year.  (But if its original position was shoved a bit higher against the headliner it would have been pretty much out of my sight line, and from the outside it would have been difficult to see behind the tint.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to the Honda dealer and asked &quot;what is that thing?&quot;  Stumped everyone, including the service manager (a long-time Master Technician).  We couldn't find one on the inside of a showroom Honda Accord.  He spent 30 minutes with me looking through (computerized) service manuals at various components - mainly antennas or sensors - and couldn't find it anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on those manuals (and his knowledge) it doesn't appear to have anything to do with XM radio, the collision warning system, the lane departure camera, the nav system's GPS, or anything else we could think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His only suggestion: Whatever it is, it was something that was supposed to be wedged &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; the headliner and windshield, and it dropped out when the old windshield was removed, and the windshield tech didn't know what to do with it after he replaced the windshield so he just taped it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So .. what is this thing?  Is it a Honda component for some purpose or other?  Or did the FBI covertly install it to track me for some reason? (*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) For the record, I know of no such reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S Reason I want to know is: The car is leased.  I want/need to return it the way I got it.  So if the thing &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; supposed to be under the headliner I need to go back to the glass vendor and have them redo it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12921" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T13:40:41.947" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T14:24:30.117" Title="What is this thing hanging from a wire from the front headliner at the top of the windshield?" Tags="|honda|accord|sensor|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27861" CreationDate="2016-04-05T00:39:58.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't think so&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had many experiences with strictly oil cooled engines.  In particular the 1986 Suzuki GSXR 750/1100 platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They went strictly oil cooled with a giant oil cooler and 8 quarts of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8XLa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8XLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, this motor is filled with oil galleys and has no coolant or radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note, I live in the desert of the US Southwest where temperatures exceed 120F in the shade during late June to August.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had an issue running 10w-40, 20w-40, 20w-50....so on.  Although the 10w-40 is 'less dense' than 20w-50, in theory, I have not detected a difference in power, cooling or engine life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, comparing this engine to your liquid cooled modern car platform might seem ludicrous but at the end of the day taking the motor I am talking about to a track and running it a very high RPM's in desert summer heat and not detecting a difference in cooling is pretty meaningful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You mentioned&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I check radiator water constantly and refill it if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are needing to refill your coolant on a semi-regular basis I suggest you focus on your actual cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't added coolant to my 2013 Toyota Truck for at least 6 months and I'm sure I'll be able to get to summer before I add a little to the reserve reservoir.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IMO, focus on the actual cooling system.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T00:39:58.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27858" CreationDate="2016-04-05T00:58:51.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interesting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That vehicle has fuel injection via the throttle body.  It sounds like the engine is getting flooded, just like you said.  With IF (fuel injection) flooding has mostly become a thing of the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this vehicle may not have any interface to it's very rudimentary computer it can be hard to get diagnostic information out of it.  The fact you have to push the accelerator all the way to the floor to start it may be telling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your throttle body position sensor and/or the engine temperature sensors are having issues and the computer is injecting more fuel than you need to get the vehicle started.  It may be thinking the throttle position is not what it actually is or the computer thinks the engine is cold and therefor injecting MORE fuel than you need, which would happen with a choke on a cold morning in a carbureted vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, these are just thoughts a possibilities but I didn't see any answers so I thought that giving you something to think about for a task to test a couple of your sensors would be beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps someone could chime in and tear into my idea and poke some holes in it and offer more concrete thoughts and action items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T00:58:51.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27773" CreationDate="2016-04-05T01:19:24.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in the US, since 2008 vehicles must have a CAN connection on the OBD-II plug, but what about Europe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a special OBD called, wait for it, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#EOBD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EOBD.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe has their own specification. Because why inherit something that already works?  That would make too much sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe uses the OBD-II interface which is the connector type to connect to the vehicles CAN bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do vehicles have to add CAN to the OBD-II plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The CAN is connected to the OBD0II plug.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are already CAN enabled and use various protocols on the wire to communicate with the various components such as the ECU, a BCM and various sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of some of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_signal_protocols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protocols.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great QA regarding CAN and OBDII that might be beneficial in getting you up to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25561/difference-between-obdii-and-can?rq=1&quot;&gt;Difference between OBDII and CAN&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it possible to directly send CAN messages through the OBD-II plug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it is&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some errata on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8549/writing-can-messages&quot;&gt;Writing CAN Messages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://delphi.com/docs/default-source/catalogs/delphi-worldwide-emissions-standards-pc-ldv-15-16.pdf?sfvrsn=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a Delphi document&lt;/a&gt; detailing various global standards from emissions to vehicle interfaces to the CAN, which are almost always an OBD-II physical interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Community, please validate my claims.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T16:35:23.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27766" CreationDate="2016-04-05T01:21:12.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;possible vent hose issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are filling your tank the displaced gasses in the tank need to go somewhere.  If you have a pinched vent hose it could fill slower or be difficult to fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the neck to the tank as well as the ventilation system to ensure there are no obstructions preventing the movement of gasses or liquids entering or exiting the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T01:21:12.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27750" CreationDate="2016-04-05T01:23:26.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nope&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have the wiring in the 2016 to support the old device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power connector is different.  You could take the lead from the 2016 and cut the connector off and put on compatible connectors.  All you need for the old link device is power and a ground, if I am looking at the correct one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to DIY your electrical system and deal with the results you can pull this off but it will not 'plug and play'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T01:23:26.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27740" CreationDate="2016-04-05T01:32:37.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have to clean the engine bay first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When troubleshooting for the source of an oil look you first have to completely clean off all of the old oil, dirt and built up grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a citrus based cleaner for oil at an auto parts store.  Typically you will heat the engine up enough to make it warm but not hot enough that if you sprayed something on the engine that it would evaporate quickly.  Citrus based cleaners are water soluble so you can hose them off.  You may want to brush around the bay, especially underneath the motor where most of the gritty grime will be builtup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once clean, do the following&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the car on, get it good and hot and ensure that all the water is evaporated.  You may want to drive it a short distance but not so far that you will dirty it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place a large piece of cardboard under the engine.  See where drips might be forming and dropping onto the cardboard.  When you have a drip you will want to chase it up to it's source.  The oil might run along a wire and drip.  It may leak down the side of your engine, drop onto a suspension arm, run down it and then finally drop onto the ground.  The source can be difficult to find.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check areas where two engine surfaces meet.  If you have a failing gasket it will be something like this.  A valve cover, an oil pan, something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check oil lines -  You may have an oil line coming loose that is dripping.  Take into account the air movement from a fan or driving down the road at a high rate of speed and oil can get sprayed everywhere.  Which is why it's important to clean EVERYTHING before you start you hunt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can also try throwing talcum/baby powder all over the place and blowing it off with a leaf blower and see where it has built up.  It's a painful way to do it but I've found the leak source doing this before so sometimes it's a good method depending on where the leak is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T01:32:37.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27347" CreationDate="2016-04-05T01:56:25.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Re-pair your phone with your car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goto your phone and delete your car as an audio device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goto your car stereo and delete your phone as a source device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-pair your phone and your car and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to be an effective fix for me when I occasionally encounter this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T01:56:25.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27038" CreationDate="2016-04-05T02:05:14.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OP has indicated that this is a wheel bearing issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Definitely a wheel bearing btw, garage fixing it next week :) – Andy Holmes Mar 19 at 19:41&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Completely forgot to follow this up. I got it fixed and the car no longer sounds like a jet engine – Andy Holmes 1 hour ago&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T07:34:07.923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T07:34:07.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26982" CreationDate="2016-04-05T02:15:05.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Doesn't sound like a belt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sounds in the video you posted don't sound like a squealing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your researched has revealed concerns regarding the vehicle I suggest you abandon your desire to own it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low hum that seems to change frequency without the car changing in speed is concerning.  It makes me think transmission but there is too little information to nail it down as the comments to your question illiterate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a squeaking belt though, IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:15:05.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20875" CreationDate="2016-04-05T02:32:49.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people just clean the EGR port with a small drill and think they are done. Just inside where the throttle body mounts They are 2 side passages that are often overlooked. I had to bend a wire and dig them out.  They were stopped up solid. I also took a pressure washer to the plenum. Lots of gunk and carbon came out. Hope this helps someone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gene&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16181" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T02:32:49.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27856" CreationDate="2016-04-05T03:26:40.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general silicone gease applied to the parts before and after assembly is a good way to go. It will be pushed out of the way where you have tight metal to metal contact so it won't cause electrical connection problems. It won't crack up if things move slightly and it won't stop you dismantling and reassembling things if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T03:26:40.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T05:13:10.510" Score="2" ViewCount="7704" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question might not belong here but I don't know where else to ask a general car question.  I will delete/close if the mods think this question is crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know when the last batch of the current model year's cars usually come out?  I'm just curious about this.  I used logic when thinking about this but I could totally be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use 2010 and 2011 as our example years.  My family bought a 2011 Civic in Nov 2010.  I think when they went in Oct 2010 to look at cars, there were some 2011 models for people to look at, just not to purchase, or at least we didn't purchase in Oct for some reason.  Going by this, I'm estimating the manufacturer must have started building the cars in July 2010 or so, finish by end of Aug or early Sept, and then transport the cars to be in showrooms by Oct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they start building the 2011 models in July 2010, I would assume they would have stopped building the 2010 models in June 2010 since it will take some time for them to reset all the &quot;robots&quot; on the assembly line for the next model, assuming the next model is different compared to the previous model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would mean the last batch of 2010 cars would be shipped to dealerships in July.  Is my logic/guess correct or does someone know the true workflow of the car manufacturers and can enlighten me?  Thanks in advance for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T21:21:07.393" Title="When do car manufacturers stop making the current model year and start the next model year?" Tags="|honda|manufacturer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27895" CreationDate="2016-04-05T06:05:11.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1665" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any way to detect AC(air conditioner) and Window(open/close) using OBD?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am putting links below for the OBD reader but I am unable to find any way to detect the AC(air conditioner) and Window state (open/close).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/pires/obd-java-api&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/pires/obd-java-api&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/pires/android-obd-reader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/pires/android-obd-reader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16185" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:45:45.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:45:45.163" Title="Detect AC(on/off) and Window(open/close) of CAR using OBD" Tags="|ac|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T06:55:06.133" Score="1" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an old mechanical (non fluel injection) gasoline manual transmission car, and my approach to braking is pretty much as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruising&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissengage acceleratior, press clutch 100% in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press break pedal accordingly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now things change depending on if the reason I was breaking still exists (for example, the light change or the car in front accelerates)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In case I need to fully stop I:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue tu break till I come to a stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift to neutral, disengage clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If I need to resume:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Down-Shift in to gear according to my speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rev-match and accelerate, carry on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told many times this is not the correct way to do things because a car coasting in neutral or breaking in neutral isn't a car 100% under control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody please elaborate and state the proper way of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:01:38.067" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:01:38.067" Title="Correct braking technique on a manual transmission" Tags="|manual-transmission|driving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-05T11:36:15.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T07:31:15.167" Score="0" ViewCount="8814" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD-II provide following readings &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass Air Flow (PID 0166)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel–Air commanded equivalence ratio (0144)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can these be used to calculate the actual fuel consumed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the output correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T17:32:04.863" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:33:48.630" Title="How can I calculate MPG using an OBD-II Device" Tags="|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27885" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:16:42.667" Score="9" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a 1991 Citroen BX TGE16 which doesn't use fuel injection and I'm worried it doesn't have any fuel and spark cut off system so I don't over do it when downshifting or engine breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I downshift without panicking every time my car revs up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/16859/what-happens-to-a-car-engine-when-giving-max-throttle-while-not-in-gear?rq=1&quot;&gt;What happens to a car engine when giving max throttle while not in gear&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Older vehicles will not have this self-protection device. I defer to an expert with more information regarding when rev-limiters began to be implemented by the manufacturers to edit this answer with some of that information and remove this paragraph. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T15:35:15.417" Title="How to find out if my non-fuel injected car has a rev limiter?" Tags="|manual-transmission|rev-limiter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27883" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:36:48.427" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure a rev limiter will help protect you if you downshift at a speed higher than the gear you've selected is intended for.  If you manage to lift the clutch, even without any fuel, throttle or spark, you could do some fairly significant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question regarding the rev limiter.  If a carburetor or mechanical fuel injection equipped car has a rev limited, it will take the form of a mechanical mechanism built into the rotor arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically rotor arms are fairly simple and compact in that they'll have a straight copper connector running along a straight arm and little else.  If a rev limiter is built into the rotor arm they'll typically take on a more complex appearance.  You may see springs built into them or they'll look more like a cam or snail shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, advice regarding downshifting.  Take some time to learn the speed readout at the maximum RPM of each gear and simply adapt your driving style so that you don't downshift to a gear when the speed of the vehicle is close to or exceeds the known maximum for this gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my Golf is bouncing off the rev limiter at 30mph in first.  I therefore don't select first unless the speed of the car drops well below 30mph.  With second it's around 55mph and third is approaching 80mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:36:48.427" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27879" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:41:13.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct procedure for braking in a manual transmission car is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving as normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply brakes with a gradual increase in pressure &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the car stalls depress the clutch pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly release pressure before a complete stop to ensure a smooth stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stationary for longer periods shift to neutral and release the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each car is slightly different so you will need to learn with your own car what point to press the clutch in for step 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:41:13.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27892" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:33:23.717" Score="28" ViewCount="11828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine we're going down a hill and we're driving a manual car. There are two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I put my car in neutral it will go downhill without any need for the injector to squirt fuel into the system, just enough fuel for the engine to idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I put the car in the last gear (5th on my car) and let the gravity pull my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which situation will consume less fuel?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the title and the last sentence, &lt;strong&gt;which I have highlighted,&lt;/strong&gt; clearly state that I am asking about fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T05:47:34.630" Title="Do cars consume less fuel when in Neutral?" Tags="|fuel-system|engine-theory|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2016-04-06T21:50:23.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27861" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:44:30.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only place where I expect direct interaction between oil and the cooling system is the oil-water heat exchanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if your 405 has one (some oil-coolers use air instead of water) but if it does have one and the 10W-40 runs hotter than 20W-50 (I don't know how to verify this), this might explain the hotter temperatures seen in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T09:44:30.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:51:48.917" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is equipped with a modern fuel injection system, it will likely use less if left in gear and allowed to run against the transmission with no throttle as modern fuel injection systems can and do shut down the injectors completely thus use no fuel whatsoever.  If the engine is at idle in neutral, the ECU will have to use a small amount of fuel to keep the engine turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T09:51:48.917" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27894" CreationDate="2016-04-05T10:38:06.047" Score="14" ViewCount="104086" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently on a ramp in a parking structure I messed up when trying to accelerate again from a standstill by not letting the clutch out far enough and bringing the engine to way too high rpms (may have been around 4k). Afterwards a burning-kind of smell lingered for a minute or so, which I presume came from the clutch which got hotter than it should normally be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how harmful was this to the clutch? It happened once and I didn't notice any difference in behaviour afterwards. The smell also vanished and didn't persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14449" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T10:54:17.637" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T00:41:44.020" Title="Clutch smell after botched attempt at accelerating on a ramp" Tags="|clutch|smell|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27893" CreationDate="2016-04-05T10:41:20.487" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was just once, I wouldn't be overly worried... particularly as you say the car is driving fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You took a bit of life off your clutch, and I'd keep an eye out for issues in the coming weeks or months with the clutch just to be on the safe side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T10:41:20.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27876" CreationDate="2016-04-05T10:44:41.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those OBD-II PIDS are &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; part of the standard OBD-II spec - they are manufacturer specific and not governed under OBD-II &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I know for a fact that you can get this data if your car is a Daihatsu Copen as I have done it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T10:44:41.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T11:27:11.217" Score="9" ViewCount="5914" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anybody tell me about the merits and demerits of OHV (overhead valve) vs OHC (overhead camshaft)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some experts say that an OHC engine will run faster than OHV engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16195" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T18:34:07.317" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T09:47:33.393" Title="Merits and demerits of OHV vs OHC" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|ohc|ohv|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T11:52:17.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking at just the fuel consumption whilst going downhill, then yes, as Steve Matthews said you'll use less fuel if you're in gear and foot off the throttle - likely no fuel at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you also need to consider after the hill - if you don't brake and allow the car to freely accelerate down the hill, you'll then have considerably more speed than you would if you coasted in-gear. This enables you to use less fuel after the hill levels out. &lt;em&gt;(Safety and speed limits may render this a poor choice!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ultimately a balance between energy loss from being in-gear vs fuel consumption of car &quot;idling&quot; in neutral at speed and energy loss from any braking. If you're not braking with idle coasting and the in-gear energy loss is anything but minimal, then you're likely to be better off neutral coasting. The moment you are braking though, it's likely best to put it in-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &quot;hyper-milers&quot; take this so far as to use &quot;pulse and go&quot; - on a level straight, accelerate in-gear then coast in neutral for a much longer period to minimise the in-gear energy loss. Accelerating and decelerating on a straight sounds like it'd be poor for economy, but apparently it works out in certain scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T11:52:17.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27882" CreationDate="2016-04-05T11:59:30.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I did for my 2003 Opel Agila.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you need an android device. Mine is a Galaxy S4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, go onto eBay and search for an ELM327 reader, it will come up with lots of OBD-II readers for a few pounds/dollars. Make sure you click the &lt;code&gt;UK Only&lt;/code&gt; box, or whatever your country is so you don't have to wait years for shipping. Then choose the &lt;code&gt;price + P&amp;amp;P, lowest first&lt;/code&gt; option. Then go to buy it now, unless you can wait for the auction to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRuPt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRuPt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reader that I purchased. I cannot say if the any other ones are any good from my personal experience, but this one works really well, and I bought it in an eBay auction for like £2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1MvA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1MvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1J6s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1J6s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you've bought one, you need to go onto your android device, and go onto the Google Play store. Search for &lt;code&gt;dashcommand&lt;/code&gt;, and download this app: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYl5F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYl5F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you download this exact one and watch for any other apps with similar names. I have tried several and have found Dashcommand to be the best one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, open dashcommand, and set up your car. Connect your OBDII interface, and set up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose ELM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G68Nj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G68Nj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADFI6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADFI6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter your displacement. You can find this on wikipedia if you search for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nde7J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nde7J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now press the Not Connected button, and wait for it to connect. Then choose dashboards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NdPR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NdPR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now choose the picture of the fuel pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBQEH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uBQEH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am not connected, so nothing shows up. This updates about every second, and tells me my MPG over certain time ranges, and my average over every journey (which is saved by the app, so it remembers every time you open the app)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is quite accurate, but my 2003 Opel Agila does not support range calculations, but it seems to tally up that I get 40mpg, and get about 330 miles per tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T17:33:48.630" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:33:48.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27875" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:12:28.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about all manufacturers but I do specifically know for Volkswagen who'se model year starts in October.  I have a 2003 registered VW Bora, registered on 17th Dec 2003.  However, it build year on the sticker in the boot (trunk) tells me it is a 2004 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:12:28.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26764" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:17:16.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you've already answered your question.  I assume that the garage is largely un-ventilated and that you promptly close the doors upon leaving for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very tempted to, next time the weather is slightly windy, leave the doors open for a few hours to let the garage air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of interest, do you reverse into the garage so the cars exhaust pipe faces the back wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:17:16.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:22:05.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking, coasting in neutral may save you some gas, because mechanical losses in the engine at ~3000RPM are greater than the power needed it run it idle at ~500RPM. Coasting in gear won't consume any gas, but it will slow you down faster, requiring you to reaccelerate earlier than you'd have to when coasting in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're in the US, you may have little choice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Coasting with a vehicle not in gear is prohibited by law in most US states. An example is Maine Revised Statues Title 29-A, Chapter 19, §2064 &quot;An operator, when traveling on a downgrade, &lt;strong&gt;may not coast with the gears of the vehicle in neutral&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy-efficient_driving#Coasting_or_gliding&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to check the laws in your jurisdiction to be sure, but I wouldn't do it anyway. For the fuel economy to become noticeable, you'll have to gain speed while going downhill, which is not a great idea for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T14:32:22.933" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T14:32:22.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27856" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:26:06.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a spray can of undercoating and spray your connection area with that after your connection is made. Paint works too, but undercoating is somewhat flexible and won't crack like paint will if the connection is subject to any flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:26:06.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27897" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:34:24.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;OHC engines tend to be able to rev higher mostly due to the significantly lower valve train weight which makes for greatly improved valve control and higher potential RPM before float occurs. OHV engines have pushrods and relatively heavy rockers as opposed to OHC which does away with that. The inertia on the valve is lower and therefore controlling it becomes easier. This means that a light spring pressure can be used for a given lift and duration before float is encountered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it goes far deeper than simply that, a few other comparisons between the two types reveals the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a DOHC setup you have 4 (or 5 sometimes) valves which does three things to improve efficiency: the total volume of two smaller ports is greater than one big port, smaller ports have greater airflow velocity and can fill cylinder more effectively and coming back to valve train weight; two small valves are lighter and require again lighter springs and hardware.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OHV engines can have long and poorly angled pushrods which can cause valve control problems and even catastrophic failure at high RPMs if not addressed. OHC engines run the camshaft directly on followers which are attached straight to the valve - no possibility of energy loss due to pushrod flex or misalignment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOHC specifically can have lower per valve max lift than an OHV engine but still have more total lift since you have 2 or more valves (5mm x 2 for instance) again this means a lighter valve spring that need not be compressed as much as single spring. You also have more airflow for a given duration since you have two ports working at the same time. Since you have two separate camshafts, true variable valve timing is possible. You can control opening and closing events of both intake and exhaust as well as lobe separation angle and more depending on manufacturer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, this does not explicitly mean that DOCH/SOHC is always better than OHV. If you look at a modern Nascar or Pro Stock OHV motor you will see 10 000 - 12 000 RPM and at the same time see some modern production car DOHC/SOHC motors that can barely muster 5000RPM. As with all things, it depends completely on application, parts used, cost to produce etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally however it is cheaper to build a high revving OHC engine as opposed to OHV as you do not need special tapered/thick wall pushrods, special rocker shafts, exotic material valves and springs in order to cope with extreme valve spring pressures and valve inertia - if you go the exotic route on OHC engines you get the likes of 14 000RPM race engines and even 20 000RPM F1 engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day a given motor will not run faster simply because the way the valves operate changes from OHV to OHC - all factors need to be considered for there to be a true comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:34:24.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27893" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:34:50.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens all the time at autocross events, in extreme cases the clutch will get &quot;glazed&quot; and slip a lot until the burnt material is worn off. Since you aren't having any trouble, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:34:50.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:44:15.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific answer to your question lies in the BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) map for your engine, combined with the desired output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BSFC map shows how efficiently the engine converts chemical energy to mechanical work at any given condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBWi6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBWi6.png&quot; alt=&quot;BSFC Map&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:44:15.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27883" CreationDate="2016-04-05T12:49:15.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated by Steve, downshifting when the vehicle speed is too high for the gear selected will over-rev any engine. The rev limiter only stops the engine going too fast under its own power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-injected engines do sometimes have rev limiters built into the ignition system, you'll have to investigate your own engine specification I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T12:49:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T14:24:45.697" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Steve Matthews noted, modern cars will not use fuel while coasting downhill in gear. This is called Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off and uses various sensors to determine the engine load (i.e. the car is driving the engine) and whether the throttle is at idle (i.e. the driver's foot is off the pedal). The engine computer will then stop injecting fuel. Generally petrol engines continue to spark, but this consumes minimal energy.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not mean the car continues at a steady speed; it will commonly slow down because of mechanical losses in the drive train, and also because work is still being done compressing air on the compression stroke - without combustion, the air acts as a sort of spring, recovering much of this energy, but some heat is lost in the process. Vacuum in the intake manifold (around the throttle plate) of a petrol also causes strong engine braking effect. Diesels do not have throttle plates and their engine braking effect comes mostly from their much higher compression ratios.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coasting along in gear will allow gravity to drive the car's ancillaries (oil pump, alternator). It also provides drastically greater control than neutral due to engine braking. You can also save fuel by using high-drain equipment such as heaters or air conditioning while descending the hill, as gravity will power these components. This does, of course, detract from the energy available to climb the next hill.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be noted that this applies exclusively to fuel-injected cars; carburetted cars will continue to consume fuel. Additionally, 2-stroke vehicles cannot coast in gear without fuel, as this would starve the crankcase of lubricating oil. However, DFCO has been a feature since the early days of fuel injection - I own a fuel-injected car from the 1980s with this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T14:24:45.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:05:11.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: On my experience - Long hills on gear, short slopes in the city - on the neutral (not breaking the limits of speed and sanity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my petrol powered '97 MMC Galant i've got a custom made trip computer for counting fuel consumption, that is hooked up directly to the fuel injector wires. Here's my observations: when coasting downhill at 4-th gear (i've got 5-speed manual transmission) at around 3000RPM (consuming about 3-4L/100km) - the engine stops sending signal to the injectors only after a 4 to 6 seconds of coasting, which in my city is pretty near to the end of any available slope. So i'd say if you really have an ability to drive in such condition for a certain time (mountain roads, or something) - then it will be a good choice (it will also save your brake disks &amp;amp; pads from overheating and wearing down), but in case of not-so-slopy terrain i'd say that neutral gear will be a greater choice.&#xA;My car at ~800RPM and 70km\h takes only 0.9-1.2L\100km at neutral gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: All said above may be different for any other car, i think modern engine ECUs can activate fuel shutdown much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13975" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T15:05:11.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27883" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:35:15.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect a mass market car from the 1990s to have a rev limiter of some sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But...as other posters have stated a rev limiter won't prevent over revving due to downshifting. Having said that it would require very aggressive downshifts to over rev your engine and it is fairly likely that you are going to damage or at least reduce the life of other parts of the transmission (clutch especially) before over revving as such is a big concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you don't want to do a harsh downshift when revs are close to the red line in any case, certainly from a reliability perspective and probably not even for performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal driving you want to try to make all of your actions have  smooth transition as this will maximise reliability, fuel economy and car control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in racing engine braking needs to be used carefully as it can be an abrupt load which risks locking the driving wheels and is best used in conjunction with softer deceleration ie lifting the throttle and progressive braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T15:35:15.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27893" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:41:41.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is technically harmful, but if it only happened one time, and you don't notice any difference now, you're fine. If it happens a lot you can damage your clutch (or other parts) but once in a while is fine (if not exactly desirable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of your clutch like a brake pad, there is a kind of &quot;pad&quot;. What you smelled was a tiny amount of of that pad burning off, like an eraser. Just like an eraser, when you erase a lot, you can smell it, but there is usually plenty of eraser left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't mean you want to go around do this all the time, but it's okay if it happens once in a while. In fact, just like the brakes in your car, you loose a tiny fraction of the &quot;pad&quot; every time you engage and disengage the clutch. And just like the brakes, &quot;heavy use&quot; uses up more, but not all, of that &quot;pad&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY&lt;/a&gt; May have some helpful information. The part you smelled burning was the &quot;friction surface&quot; in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16202" LastEditorUserId="16078" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T18:31:19.897" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:31:19.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2016-04-05T15:56:26.973" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with all other factors held constant, is it true that a thicker head gasket is likely to fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. A thicker head gasket impacts how headbolt torque is distributed between the block and the heads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take two pieces of bread. Squash them with your hand. Now put cheese and ham inside and squash it again. The first thing to move under the pressure is an ingredient and not the bread. Same thing with thicker gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker gaskets will usually call for longer-ish head bolts and higher torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if so, what is it about a thicker head gasket that makes it more prone to failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are adding more space between two parts that need to seal under constant pressure and changes in temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped doing this and went with the water injection route. It works better for less money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T17:11:22.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:11:22.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27949" CreationDate="2016-04-05T17:00:42.003" Score="12" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;A search on detonation produced some of the causes of detonation, but everything I found says there are other causes, but none list them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common listed cause is the air / fuel mixture becoming too hot due to compression by a turbo. When it gets hot enough it spontaneously detonates. Oddly I don't find references to superchargers having this effect. So, a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the other causes of detonation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the various methods of managing detonation? For turbos an intercooler seems to be a common way to cool the air / fuel mixture. What others have been tried?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do superchargers have the same effect of heating the air / fuel mixture? And if not, why not? By ideal gas law (PV = nRT) I thought increasing only the pressure would by necessity increase the temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T16:36:00.627" Title="What are the various causes of preignition / detonation?" Tags="|engine-theory|turbocharger|super-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:10:18.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If nothing else works.... Look into the &quot;Master Cylinder&quot;  I owned an 03 VW Passat... And my brakes would lock up on me and I would continue to drive... Melting all calipers rotors... The computer will not recognize this problem, as I went to 4 different VW certified repair shops... None could find the source of my problem... in fact they replaced all parts... only for them to melt together again. It was the most frustrating auto problem I've ever dealt with. I brought it to 2 over non VW auto shops... They also could not find the source... So It was up to me and my buddy who knew only what he self taught himself ( I didn't know anything about Fixing Cars)  We went to work doing hours of research on the issue... Only to find that no one on the internet reported a similar problem.. then we turned into engineers (even though we are not lol). We looked at blueprints etc and we both came to the conclusion that it seems something is wrong with the &quot;MASTER CYLINDER&quot; So we went to work and removed and lifted what was needed and replaced the Master Cylinder... reattached all parts... and Took it for an hour drive.  The car was finally FIXED!!! One of the joyous moments of my life, as sad as it sounds it felt rewarding fixing something many professionals could not... After 3k in costs total and the car was still broken... It took a total of under $200 to buy the part and me and my buddy installed it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16207" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T18:37:27.207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:37:27.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27834" CreationDate="2016-04-05T19:19:04.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rod Knock Causes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rod knock is when the hydrodynamic layer of oil between a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_bearing#Hydrodynamic_lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydrostatic bearing&lt;/a&gt; and a journal is being broken during the 4 cycle combustion process.  Additionally, rod knock occurs with ball bearings in a connecting rod if there is too much clearance between ball bearings and races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can get rod knock frequently in conjunction with the following issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following answer explains crankshaft bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24475/what-are-crankshaft-bearings-and-how-are-they-different-from-camshaft-end-bearin/24477#24477&quot;&gt;What are crankshaft bearings and how are they different from camshaft end bearings?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another post explaining the results of oil starvation in an ICE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24555/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-not-enough-oil-in-a-car-engine/24563#24563&quot;&gt;What actually happens when there is not enough oil in a car engine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low oil pressure - Oil pressure is key to maintaining the hydrodynamic lubrication of hydrostatic bearing.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Debris - Debris can clog oil galleyways and filters.  As well, a rare filter disintegration can occur which can create an oil starvation scenario by clogging oil feed lines, coolers and oil pickups.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat - Overheating an ICE can result in the integrity of oil being comprimised thereby creating another situation where lubrication is root cause to a bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remediation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You stated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I replaced all the bearings, oil filter, cleaned the sump &amp;amp; strainer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not see a task in your list associated with cleaning up your prior crank journals.  If you were experiencing rod knock prior to rebuild you could have a crank journal that is 'out of round' and allowing oil pressure to escape thereby creating a low lubrication issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The out of round crank journal is just not measured into your bearing with the factory clearances and now you are dealing with the issue again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's concerning that the journal may not have been machined to a round state during your previous remediation effort.  I would see this as a likely cause to what you are experiencing again.  Too much clearance on the journal that is unable to maintain hydrostatic lubrication.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Due to excessive clearance you are getting metal to metal contact between the connecting rod hydrostatic bearing and the crank journal which is the sound of the knocking.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T19:24:10.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T19:57:49.217" Score="7" ViewCount="5611" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably best viewed as a general question, however specifically I'm talking about a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gone from stock 29 inch tires up to 33 inch tires without regearing. The tires are in fact a few pounds lighter than stock, upgraded breaks manage them well, and getting up to and maintaining speed does not seem to be an issue (relative to stock). Other than correcting the speedometer, I don't have any personal reasons why I'd want to regear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this cause significantly reduced life of the drivetrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16208" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T04:31:19.407" Title="What additional wear will occur on the drivetrain from running larger tires and not regearing?" Tags="|tires|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27889" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:07:16.827" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a really easy question.  A vehicle coasting down a hill with with a manual transmission in neutral with the clutch press and held to the floor&#xA;will burn less fuel than coasting in any gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHY:  because an automatic transmission in neutral has a lag on the engine. The Manual transmission in neutral with the clutch press does not have a lag on the transmission cause it it detached from the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16209" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:07:16.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27038" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:25:33.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so DucatiKiller has taken on keeping an eye on this question as I totally forgot to get back to everyone lol. Here's a basic rundown of what's going on with the car and what happened when I took it in for repair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loud humming was indeed caused by a damaged wheel bearing, you could also feel the vibrations in the peddles and in the steering wheel - the vibrations would usually be most obvious between 30mph and 50mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the garage and an hour later the N/S/F (Near Side Front) wheel bearing had been changed and now it sounds and drives so much better. Around £48 for parts and £50 for labour costs + the usual 20% VAT here in the UK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creaking going over bumps is likely to be wearing wishbones/wishbone bushes and the CV joints are definitely wearing but no need to change them anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this info helps anyone in the future :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14068" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T20:25:33.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27850" CreationDate="2016-04-05T20:50:30.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest bmw's, and many cars using the ZF 8 speed gearbox (Jaguar XF, XE, most recent BMW's, and a number more) have an auto neutral feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Automatic idle shift system at vehicle standstill and engaged service break (stand-by control)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zf.com/corporate/en_de/products/product_range/cars/cars_8_speed_automatic_transmission.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zf.com/corporate/en_de/products/product_range/cars/cars_8_speed_automatic_transmission.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, not your Honda, nor many automatic transmissions will shift into neutral on their own, but the ZF and many future ones will due to the need to increase efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you'd ever like to know about the ZF 8 speed gearbox, and what it is used in can be found on Wikipedia, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_8HP_transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_8HP_transmission&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastEditorUserId="3097" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T21:36:56.750" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T21:36:56.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27897" CreationDate="2016-04-05T21:32:10.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OHC vs OHC - Pro's and Con's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overhead valves and a single overhead cam can have very similar results.  If you add in DOHC you will get into another world of comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an excellent post regarding the delta between DOHC and OHC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/8134/what-is-difference-between-dohc-and-sohc&quot;&gt;what is difference between DOHC and SOHC?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the OHC has rocker arms and the DOHC has the cam acting directly on a 'bucket'.  The OHC rocker arm adds weight to the overall reciprocating mass whereas the DOHC is very simply with very little weight.  Overall, the objective for higher RPM is directly tied to reciprocating mass to prevent &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24002/what-is-valve-float-and-how-does-it-impact-engines&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;valve float&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great post related to various valve and tappet designs that is good foundation information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27071/what-are-the-various-kinds-of-tappets-lifters-and-the-advantages-disadvantag/27349#27349&quot;&gt;What are the various kinds of tappets / lifters and the advantages / disadvantages of each&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27066/what-are-tappets&quot;&gt;What are Tappets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a final piece regarding the Chevy OHC engine and why it is desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27595/why-does-gm-still-insist-on-push-rod-engines&quot;&gt;Why does GM still insist on push rod engines?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro's and Con's OHV&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHV Con - In order to keep RPM's higher the valve train from the cam in the crankcase through the pushrods to lifter must be lightened in order to obtain greater efficiency seen at higher RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHV Con - More moving parts = more points of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHV Pro - Simpler design&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHV Pro - Weight distribution and a lower CG.  Since the cam is in the crankcase and many of the components to hold it into place OHV typically has a lower CG&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro's and Con's OHC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Con - More reciprocating weight than DOHC&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Con - Taller engine, more space is required to accommodate for the cam and valvetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Con - Higher CG.  The taller heads make for more weight higher in the engine effecting the overall center of gravity of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Con - Increased production costs due to a more complex cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Pro - Less moving parts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC Pro - Less reciprocating weight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OHC PRO - Higher RPM's due to less reciprocating weight of the valve train.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T21:32:10.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T21:40:03.583" Score="4" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to have the engine replaced in my '05 Toyota 4Runner.  I got it back about 4 weeks ago and about a week ago I discovered a leak at my Power steering pump. When the engine is running the fluid is slinging out around the pulley.  I noticed that the fluid that is in the system is clear.  I also know that the correct fluid that Toyota calls for is Dexron 2 or 3 ATF and the color of it is pink.  I contacted the mechanic that installed the engine and he said that he went back with a clear fluid instead of the Dexron 2 or 3 ATF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;would the use of the incorrect fluid cause the leak?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And if so by flushing and replacing the fluid with the correct Dexron 2 or 3 ATF, could that cause the seals to swell back up and re-seat or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to replace the pump? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to run it too long and cause leaks in the rack and pinion unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike Hammond&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16214" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:49:59.530" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:49:59.530" Title="Power Steering Pump Leak...Wrong Fluid Used" Tags="|toyota|power-steering|4runner|power-steering-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1164" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:06:49.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think everyone is missing the point of the catch can in the first place.  The catch can sole purpose it to keep oil from going into your intake and being burn, which is BAD for the environment. You would put the catch can INLINE with the PVC return line to the Intake.  When installed this way (the proper way), it is still recirculating the fumes, but lowering your emissions out of your exhaust due to you NOT burning oil anymore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what you do with the trapped oil, take it to AutoZone, O'reilly's, Pep Boys, Advanced Auto Parts... etc, they all accept used oil for proper disposal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This simple method took my Gross Polluter, 230k+ mile, 1991 4Runner to passing smog out here in CA.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16216" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:06:49.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23876" CreationDate="2016-04-05T23:14:05.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the sound the car is making is the wheel bearing or the rotor hitting, torque spec for the front axle nut is 158 ft.lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The C1422 probably occurred from a low voltage situation and the sensor needs to be re-calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C1413 is probably due to the axle nut being loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T23:14:05.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T01:36:23.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I learned to drive a manual transmission, I learned by accident that if I started it in gear without engaging the clutch, it would lurch forward, and might even start and drive on. (Usually I was so startled that I let the key go and it didn't actually begin running). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that this trick could get you out of a dangerous situation such as being stalled on a railroad crossing or in a traffic lane: just use the starter to &quot;motor&quot; the car a few feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do manual transmission cars still allow this, or is there now a clutch engaged switch or neutral safety switch or something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that the ability to &quot;motor&quot; in an emergency was one advantage over an automatic. Is it still true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15009" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T05:48:56.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:19:48.670" Title="Can you still &quot;motor&quot; a manual transmission car with the starter motor?" Tags="|starter|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31770" CreationDate="2016-04-06T01:40:56.150" Score="7" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015 Honda Fit EX. On my dashboard, there is a small screen that has been displaying &quot;CHECK CHARGE SYSTEM&quot; and displaying warning lights (TPMS, power steering, and stability control). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it in to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as a bad alternator that isn't charging the battery fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator itself sounds fine (still quiet) and only has 50k miles on it, so I believe the bearings and the internals are still good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just change the regulator in this instance? When should you swap the regulator versus swapping the entire alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T21:04:45.563" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T20:06:23.370" Title="Alternator isn't charging battery properly. Replace or swap regulator only?" Tags="|honda|electrical|alternator|fit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27925" CreationDate="2016-04-06T01:42:07.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still do it in a way. Just press the clutch before engaging the starter and let it go. The car will jump forward and move. Some cars might now allow the starter to continue operating. But you can keep doing the same thing over and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T04:01:52.560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T04:01:52.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27815" CreationDate="2016-04-06T03:03:25.240" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely yes. I sell alternators all day every day - and a poor battery is often the root cause of alternator failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A battery with a short in it will cause the alternator to run at full output for extended periods of time, if not continuously - and they are not built to do this. Alternators the world over are built to supply an initial high current, tapering back as the current used to start the vehicle is replenished. Constant running at full output simply overheats them and the rectifiers fail. *See edit below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is 'Open Circuit' the alternator will either not start charging at all or will erratically bounce from low to high voltage. This causes the regulator to fail prematurely (or immediately!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A battery that simply will not accept charge won't necessarily cause premature failure of the alternator unless it is permanently at a low voltage, in which case see the 'shorted' section above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*EDIT: Some bigger commercial and marine alternators &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; designed to run at full output constantly, but I don't get the feeling you're talking about those :)&#xA;In 16 years of selling parts for alternators I've never heard of the brushes and slipring wearing and the grease in the bearings overheating from high charge current at idle. These issues are caused by other problems not in scope of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2017-11-22T18:55:01.320" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T18:55:01.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4383" CreationDate="2016-04-06T04:48:14.463" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;its easy to test that taking speed bump or curb at angle is better. can do this just in front of your house or neighborhood. need a rolled curb not a flat curb. if you have a low car like my vw golf back out or drive straight  no turning the wheel at all. on my car backing out or taking straight line forward on a curved curb the bumpers both bottomed out and even scrape the oil pan, and has even cracked the oil pan. however putting one wheel at slight angle puts tire out from the bumper. best option the drivers wheel first puts the bumpers and pans at angle. this method is used in off roading or pulling trailers, you never drive straight at raised obstacle this decreases your approach height clearance. again its easy to verify. drive straight at curb stop before going over see less clearance, then do at angle one tire up , tire will be out from bumper and clearance increased. Can also check out youtube vids of stuck trailers taking curbs straight on and the back end bottoms out, or off road diagonal tests of how an angle approach allows the bumper and pans not to bottom out. in cars with low  clearance like vw golfs the oil pans or trans will bottom out causing cracks if you take straight on approach angle. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzzBvWKR5Lg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzzBvWKR5Lg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16219" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T04:48:14.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T05:48:10.973" Score="6" ViewCount="10728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Pulsar 135 motorcycle.  Ove the last few days shifting gears has become difficult.  In 1st gear I have to push very hard.  There is a clacking noise that comes from the side of the engine when I try and put it in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone suggest a solution to this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to perform the work myself in order to avoid the labor expenses of a professional mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16220" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T05:53:22.447" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:28:41.940" Title="Gear Shifting is Very Hard" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|manual-transmission|pulsar|bajaj|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T06:08:36.563" Score="3" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Brio EMT 2015 model is having AC problems. The AC mechanic says the problem is in the ECM. Please enlighten me whether the BCM controls the AC or ECM does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16222" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T15:00:03.307" LastActivityDate="2020-06-11T11:37:21.867" Title="Honda Brio AC Problem" Tags="|honda|ac|bcm|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27922" CreationDate="2016-04-06T08:00:54.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Ben's comment, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's probably just a coincidence that the pump shaft seal started leaking. Universal fluids are used all the time and the Toyota power steering pump isn't anything special. Either way the pump has to be replaced/rebuilt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You either need to replace the pump or rebuild it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you flush the system, or have done prior to the leak (i.e. the leak occurred after the flush) you may have actually flushed away some muck/dirt that was clogging the leak thus you now have the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T08:00:54.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T10:38:53.530" Score="7" ViewCount="1564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a small cut(or crack) on my FRW.Its not deeper than 1mm and I do not see any wires nor I have any pressure leakage.&#xA;Is it ok to keep using them?They are for winter and I am using it only 4-5 months a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2Lju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic with the tyre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16227" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T13:27:41.373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:17:00.967" Title="Tyre with a cut or crack" Tags="|tires|damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T10:55:49.510" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just got done putting motor back in but a ground wire from the head to the fire wall keeps getting hot and smoking (steel braided wire) we've been all over this thing and cant find out our problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16228" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T06:22:48.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T06:22:48.053" Title="Dodge w150 318 727 torqueflite; need help with wiring" Tags="|dodge|wiring|ground|firewall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27937" CreationDate="2016-04-06T11:18:02.377" Score="9" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a Yamaha XJ6N motorcycle: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNPOs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNPOs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was wondering what this component here was??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhdaE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhdaE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk9ZV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk9ZV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T13:45:17.723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:56:18.257" Title="Discerning a component of a motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27933" CreationDate="2016-04-06T12:05:15.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty much up to you. But let me tell you something, in a period of my life I was so busy that I didn't have time to change my tires. It was so cut off that you could easily see the wires and I couldn't go above 70mph! The car was vibrating above that speed! Now I don't encourage you to drive in that condition. Especially if you are living in a country where there are heavy rains. But I think you're good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way if the cut is not asymmetrical (in one part of one tire) it might be an indication of faulty wheels. You might want to check that up. (A picture of the crack would help)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T13:40:08.720" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T13:40:08.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27935" CreationDate="2016-04-06T12:30:44.700" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/13208/8/yamaha%20xj6n/oil%20cleaner?uid=0&quot;&gt;https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/13208/8/yamaha%20xj6n/oil%20cleaner?uid=0&lt;/a&gt; parts manual (image not copied to protect copyright) its the oil cooler assembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also shown on the cooling images but not numbered &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/13208/6/yamaha%20xj6n/radiator%20&amp;amp;%20hose?uID=0&quot;&gt;https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/13208/6/yamaha%20xj6n/radiator%20&amp;amp;%20hose?uID=0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I found this was to search on google (other search engines are available) for &quot;Yamaha XJ6N online parts catalogue&quot;.  Once I had a search result set it was just a case for looking for components in roughly the same area and same shape as the one you are asking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T14:56:18.257" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:56:18.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27832" CreationDate="2016-04-06T12:44:17.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The D16A8 engine is the equivalent to the ZC DOHC engine  (non-vtec). The VTEC head from the D16Y8 &lt;strong&gt;will not&lt;/strong&gt; bolt on. Neither will the head from a B16A1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head on the D16A8 is superior to that of the D16Y8 even without the VTEC. It flows better and really likes to be turbocharged. I suggest you turbocharge the engine instead of an engine swap. Cheaper and more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock D16A8 engine is will stand up to 250whp on stock pistons and rods. You can achieve that with a small turbo at about one bar. Anything else will require changing the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low cost way of improving the internals is to use Suzuki Vitara 1.6 pistons with some aftermarket rods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T12:44:17.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T13:52:58.480" Score="4" ViewCount="2271" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Hyundai Sonata will not start. This has happened a few times now but previously the car would crank, run for a short time and then cut off.  We have had the fuel pump replaced as well as the crank and cam sensors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the sensors were replaced we thought we were in the clear but then the car would not start after my son got gas.  This made me suspect that the purge valve may be the culprit.  After about an hour or so the car started just fine and drove fine for several days.  Yesterday my son started the car and was driving but felt the car lose power and then it cut off.  We checked it about an hour or two later and it would crank but not catch and run.  He had gotten gas earlier in the afternoon and then he drove a few miles and made a stop before this happened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our mechanic has checked everything over and does not see anything else that could be causing the problem.  I have ordered the purge valve but it has not arrived yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be happening mechanically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these symptoms seem inline with a bad purge valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16234" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T14:31:18.490" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T20:12:29.450" Title="2004 Hyundai Sonata GLS won't start" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|sonata|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:08:07.627" Score="7" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just been changing my brake pads for the first time and my mechanic has noticed something unusual. He told me that whenever he brakes at low speed, the car rolls back a bit. According to him, the problem is most likely in the arm bushing (if I heard him right). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed the car from outside and indeed, I did notice that the wheel jerks a bit backwards before stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has gone though 42,000 km and I have not got into large potholes or went over curbs. I drive my car reasonably with thought of keeping it as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is this a known issue, or is this an issue at all and should I be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I had my 40k service just few weeks ago and they haven't spotted anything at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="14341" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T14:40:31.733" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:24:15.960" Title="Car rolls back when braking at low speed on 14 ' Audi S4 (B8.5)" Tags="|audi|braking|bushing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:15:21.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went ahead with Abbottcost's advice and messaged EBC Barkes directly. They replied promptly with a detailed answer to my question. Here is an excerpt for the email:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We only powder coat the rear of the pad so as not to get too much&#xA;  powder coat on the friction surface, this means the rough overspray&#xA;  can look a little untidy. The Brake-In coating is a thick and sticky&#xA;  and applied with a roller system so that can also look a bit untidy.&#xA;  The chip from the corner is nothing to worry about even if a part of&#xA;  the friction material has come away- this will not affect performance.&#xA;  Please see the attached photos which are of a set I took from the&#xA;  shelf in our warehouse which I feel are a match to the ones you have&#xA;  hence I’m happy they are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2bHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2bHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAQG2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAQG2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is: &lt;strong&gt;YES they are very likely GENUINE.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone for your input. I guess its better to double check than fall victim of counterfeit brake pads and learn it the hard way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great support from EBC Brakes team too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:15:21.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27925" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:19:48.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most of the comments and 'race fever' stated in his answer, most vehicles will prevent you front running the starter motor without engaging the clutch safety switch. If you know where the switch is (usually behind the clutch pedal) you may be able to stick your foot back there and press the switch without disengaging the clutch. You could also rig up an electronic switch defeat, or a little lever to press the button for you. These modifications are only suggested assuming you live in a train-dense neighborhood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles with remote start capabilities have clutch safety override switches on the dashboard, so that you don't have to press the clutch to start the motor. Those vehicles, alternatively, are equipped with neutral safety switches, so that the remote start will not work if the vehicle was left in gear. If you live in a train yard, it wouldn't be too hard to rig up a neutral safety switch override as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T14:19:48.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28113" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:26:19.070" Score="10" ViewCount="2428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I noticed a change in the sound my exhaust is making when decelerating from ~4000+ revs while in gear with the clutch not squeezed (that would be engine breaking probably). I'm unsure how to describe the sound with a word, but it fits with what these guys are reporting on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,1910.0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model forum&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;em&gt;popping&lt;/em&gt; maybe would be a good word (like popcorn in the microwave, but a bit more metalic). Also according to the explanations on the forum it is behaving as expected (because of mechanical reasons I don't fully understand, but I would trust them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the question, why did it start making this sound just lately? I have this bike since autumn and I didn't notice it until this week. Could it be related to weather? The temperatures only recently started going over 20° C (28° even, today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking for: Triumph Tiger 800, from 2011, with stock exhaust (fuel injected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I took out the spark plugs and the air filter. Cleaned them a bit with a wire brush for the former and compressed air for the later. Retightened and checked all the parts I could get at following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBsuUqPoF2M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guy's excellent instructions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air filter, before and after:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lynxi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lynxi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs, before and after (all of them looked almost the same, the picture has the one that was blackest):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgJ6I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgJ6I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throttle body plates I didn't touch, but they didn't look too dirty to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbu4j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbu4j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process of dismantling and remounting I managed to not connect the fuel level sensor correctly and this (probably) triggered a check engine error. I reconnected it and fixed the fuel level indicator, but the error is still showing on the dashboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of this work: nothing changed, the bike runs identical to before messing with it. But now I need to see what that check engine is on for - probably just need to erase the error, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="15058" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T09:49:53.113" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T15:10:50.843" Title="Motorcycle exhaust rattling / clunking / popping / burbling on deceleration" Tags="|motorcycle|exhaust|triumph|tiger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27944" CreationDate="2016-04-06T14:48:16.700" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sounds like a lean condition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's something to chew on regarding identifying a lean or rich condition on a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I believe you are hearing is backfiring.  It isn't loud because the baffling systems on modern motorcycles are so effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lean condition that suddenly appears out of nowhere I would check these basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum lines.  If you have a vacuum line come off, it will add more air to the system and create that lean condition.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manifolds - Perhaps one of your manifolds has a crack in it.  Also, check the metal bands that wrap around the manifold and tighten down to hold your throttle bodies into place and ensure they are not loose allowing air to slip by.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manifold plugs - I'm not sure if your model has these but there are stand pipes on many rubber manifolds that are brass.  They will be capped off with a little rubber cap.  They are taken off for maintenance and used to measure manifold pressure and synchronize the throttle bodies.  Make sure the plugs are capping the stand pipes off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air filter - This one is a reach.  See if your air filter is properly placed in the airbox and hasn't come free allowing more air into the system and effecting your AFR.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I've missed regarding air leaks is what you will want to inspect.  Vacuum lines for the emissions system, a fuel diaphragm, etc.  Perhaps a torn air filter (reaching again, I've only seen that once in my life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose sparkplug - A loose sparkplug could be backing it's way out of the threads.  You can have a lean condition as it begins this process.  Double check that your sparkplugs are nice and secure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:09:33.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27930" CreationDate="2016-04-06T15:28:41.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seems like the clutch is out of adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am not mistaken your bike has a clutch cable and does not have a hydraulic self adjusting clutch mechanism.  I've included some clutch maintenance tasks for you regarding adjustment and lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your clutch is out of adjustment you get the symptoms you describe.  Also, you may want to check your idle and make sure it's set at the proper RPM.  When your idle is high AND your clutch is dragging a bit you can loud 'CLANK' when you push it into gear with your foot lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pressure plate where the throw out bearing washer goes, is made of aluminum.  If you don't have the washer and the throw out bearing operates against that aluminum it will eat into the pressure plate quickly and ruin it.  If that has happened, get a new one.  It's done.  If it hasn't happened, make sure you assemble in the right order and have that nice steel washer against it to protect it.  This has been the source of a grinding sound when I have seen a failed throw out bearing on this model.  Of course, I can't be sure if that's the case with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Lubrication&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the handle for the clutch on the handlebar always squeaks.  He bought two&#xA;lever landings before he finally took my advice and used a graphite dry lubricant on it.  It comes in a spray can and has a liquid carrier that evaporates rather quickly leaving behind the graphite.  Any excess can wiped off afterward.  Apply liberally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, use the graphite to lubricate the cable inside the housing.  It's super messy if you do it wrong.  It's super messy if you do it right.  Take the cable off the lever before doing this so you can get the lubricant inside of the cable housing.   DO NOT ever use an oil based product to lubricate your cables.  It will get stiff over time, especially in cold weather as the hydrocarbons evaporate slowly from the oil.  It will get gummier and stiffer until it's unbearable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adjustment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the handlebar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting a clutch cable on a motorcycle is an art form.  You need to take your time and move the handlebars to the far right and left stops and check your adjustment each time.  You want to have a little play in the lever.  When you turn your handlebars far right on that model it WILL take up some of the play.  You will need to adjust accordingly.  When the handlebars are pointed straight there should be play in the clutch lever.  It might seem a bit wonky but it's correct.  Of course, you will want to keep the play to a minimum.  Hence the art form.  Find balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the clutch cover&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Perhaps I should have put this above but what are doing is adjusting the clutch at the point where it joins your clutch cover with the adjustment and locking bolt.  Be sure you have the second bolt to lock down the primary in order to keep your adjustment from changing.  You will want to adjust here and at the handlebar.  You want the clutch adjustment screw at the handlebar to be about halfway in the landing, you find the point by adjusting at the clutch cover, then you fine tune the adjustment up top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a big mess of graphite down here because you did such a great job of getting the liquid graphite into the cable.  If you don't have a big mess, you did it wrong.  Wash, rinse, repeat.  You cannot have enough dry graphite in the cable housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you lubricate properly and then take your time adjusting the clutch with a warm motor, I believe your drag issue will go away.  It's painful and manual but it's a beautiful analogue motorcycle that requires you to love on it.  It's analogue and cool.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T15:28:41.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27862" CreationDate="2016-04-06T15:34:33.463" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured out it (thanks to a shove in the right direction by @mikes): It's the remote engine start accessory's antenna. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't think of it when I was asked if I had &quot;add-ons&quot; because it's an official Honda accessory (that I can't do without!) installed by the dealer before taking delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://myhondapartsstore.com/myhonda/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=ACCORD&amp;amp;catcgry2=2015&amp;amp;catcgry3=4DR+EXL-V6+%28NAVI%29&amp;amp;catcgry4=KA6AT&amp;amp;catcgry5=REMOTE+ENGINE+START+SYSTEM&amp;amp;ListAll=All&amp;amp;vinsrch=no&amp;amp;systemcomp=List+All&amp;amp;prdrefno=&amp;amp;quantity=0&amp;amp;act=&amp;amp;hidSwitch=Switch&amp;amp;hidIrno=%7C004&amp;amp;vinnoT=&amp;amp;trans=&amp;amp;trim=&amp;amp;view=diagram&amp;amp;count=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this exploded diagram&lt;/a&gt; part #4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jgaer.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jgaer.gif&quot; alt=&quot;exploded diagram of parts of the official Honda remote start accessory&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the Honda dealer and got a copy of the installation instructions.  (32 pages.  To install the thing you first remove the roof console/sunglass holder, the sunvisors, the driver's door opening seal and driver's A-pillar trim, the driver's dashboard under cover and lower cover, a self-tapping screw from the rear trunk lid and fuel fill door opener cover, the driver's door sill trim, the driver's kick panel, the (steering wheel) column band, the upper column cover, a self-tapping screw on the lower column cover, and finally the lower column cover.  &lt;em&gt;Now&lt;/em&gt; you can install the f-ing antenna and you're only on page 13 of the instructions!  You've still got the control units and wiring harness to go... No wonder this accessory, with installation, was so surprisingly expensive!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's actually supposed to be installed on the windshield up flush against the headliner - but not under it.  That's out of my sightline as a driver for sure - and probably any reasonably sized driver at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I ever get the energy I'll peel it off and reattach it (with new tape!) in the proper place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12921" LastEditorUserId="12921" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T22:49:58.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T22:49:58.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27951" CreationDate="2016-04-06T16:19:44.623" Score="7" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;My love-to-hate-it relationship with the Solstice continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having some issues with apparently-random warnings (ABS light, weird DTC, gas cap warning when the gas cap was not loose). The issues temporarily (for a few days) disappeared. Since an autocross last Sunday, I hadn't seen any weird behavior. (However, even though the ABS light was not on at the autocross, the brakes locked up a few times.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, my CEL came back on. I hooked up the scanner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0x7E8: P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Pending, Current, History)&#xA;&#xA;0x7E8: P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) (Pending, Current)&#xA;&#xA;0x7E8: P0455 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow) (Pending, Current, History)&#xA;&#xA;0x7E8: P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (Current)&#xA;&#xA;0x7E8: P0563 - System Voltage High (Pending, Current)&#xA;&#xA;0x7E8: P0621 - Generator Lamp Terminal Circuit&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a bad ECU. Even the alternator warning (P0563, P0621) appear to be harmless, since the battery is definitely getting charged. The car starts right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I noticed yesterday that the tach doesn't really work for about the first 10 seconds after start. The needle just sort of bobs up and down about 5ish degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely some sort of electrical gremlin. :/ All the grounds I've checked have been fine, but there are a lot of them so it's possible I've missed one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the alternator yesterday, and saw this. Not sure how I missed this when I pulled it off of the old engine. It's worth noting that the previous motor threw a rod from the #1 cylinder. I think the rod grazed the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YS7HV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YS7HV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like there's a short in the coil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:53:06.117" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:53:06.117" Title="06 Solstice LE5 DTCs" Tags="|pontiac|dtc|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27913" CreationDate="2016-04-06T16:36:00.627" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my knowledge comes from turbo engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detonation or preignition is caused by the air/fuel mixture igniting before the spark plug fires.  The mixture is typically ignited by a hot spot either in the head, or on some carbon deposits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turbo and superchargers are more likely to detonate, because of the higher pressure.  There is more volume of air/fuel mixture in the cylinder, which when ignited, causes more pressure and heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ways to avoid detonation:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Turbo/supercharged engines run rich when in boost, around 11:1.  The unburnt fuel help absorb some of the heat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Higher octane fuel is more detonation resistant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alcohol injection - basically raises the octane.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Water injection - the water helps absorb heat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cool the intake charge - cold air intake, intercooler, nitrous.  These will give you a denser air charge, and will require more fuel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Colder spark plugs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Reshape combustion chamber - make sure everything is smooth. Small parts (corners, edges)heat easier.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turbo/supercharged engines, you typically watch 2 things to determine if you are in danger of detonation - A/F ratio, and exhaust gas temperature (EGT).  EGT is more accurate, but requires a sensor in the exhaust manifold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T16:36:00.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27934" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:02:23.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a bad ground.  I would install new ground wires.  Get some heavy cable (like 2-6 gauge multi strand) and solder some lugs onto it.  Wire the battery to body, then that same point on the body to the block.  Make sure all spots are nice and clean.  Be sure to give yourself some slack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:02:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27948" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:09:35.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh wow, there's definitely something funky going on with the electrical system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the &lt;code&gt;P0563&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;P0621&lt;/code&gt;, have you tried getting a live reading of the voltage from your scan tool or a multimeter when the car is running? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice - get a decent automotive electrician on the case. Your run of the mill mechanic isn't the right person for the job&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:09:35.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27933" CreationDate="2016-04-06T17:17:00.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long do you think the thread will last on this axle? If your answer is &quot;not a whole lot&quot; or &quot;less than a year&quot; then replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a fair bit of thread left, seeing as you've not cut any wires, just keep an eye on it. Keep in mind that the wires are now exposed to the elements so the lifespan of your tyre will be reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:17:00.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12737" CreationDate="2016-04-06T18:05:12.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm late to the game, but maybe it helps others as well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description should work, but there's one catch: &lt;strong&gt;make sure you follow the steps on the passenger seat not the driver seat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to press the knob once to toggle it from &lt;code&gt;b_on&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;b_off&lt;/code&gt; as HasH_BrowN wrote in his answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16240" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T18:05:12.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T18:34:39.267" Score="7" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to control an auxiliary fan on my 1969 Mercedes which is currently wired to run until the temperature drops below the sensor level. Sometimes this takes quite a long time even after the car has been switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do want the fan to run, but for only a couple of minutes after I switch the car off, so I installed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aeicomp.com/image2/BUA508TDspecsheet.pdf&quot;&gt;Beuler Time Delay relay&lt;/a&gt;. However, it fails to function as designed when I use the car's switch to open the trigger connection. When I disengage the trigger manually by unhooking the wire from the relay, the timed circuit stays closed for 2 minutes before opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told to put a diode between 85 and 86. Not being an electronics expert, I would like to get your opinion on what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16256" OwnerDisplayName="6.3Nut" LastEditorUserId="12317" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T20:59:53.447" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T03:21:58.120" Title="Time Delay Relay and Flyback Diode" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|rectifier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19150" CreationDate="2016-04-06T19:39:31.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding aerodynamics, the back of the car is just as important as the front. While the front of the car is responsible for cutting though the air ahead of it, the rear is responsible for returning the air to the void that the front created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc0Nx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nc0Nx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the above picture, when the air flowing over and around vehicle reaches the rear edge, it creates a light vacuum behind the vehicle, along with an abundance of turbulence and swirling air. This vacuum increases the aerodynamic drag on the vehicle. This is why airplanes taper to a point at the back, so as to decrease the drag on the rear of the plane. I don't have a source, but I believe the highest angle air can adhere to before separating and creating turbulence is 15°. While it would decrease the aerodynamic drag, it would be impracticable and perhaps a little dangerous for cars to taper to a point at the back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is exacerbated in a convertible, as the last edge for the air to conform is near the front/middle of the car, creating turbulence and causing drag along the entire back half of the car. The last point the air touches, the top of the windshield, creates an even larger vacuum from which to cause drag, as opposed to the sedan pictured, which tapers down to the height of the trunk before significant drag begins to occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Which factors have the greatest effect on mileage?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other answers/comments have stated, convertibles will usually be heavier than their coupe counterparts. The weight can be attributed to the extra strength required to raise the chassis rigidity that was lost when the rigid roof was removed, as well as extra weight from the motors and hydraulic systems needed to raise and lower the roof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As user 'Imre' mentioned in a comment, the drag coefficient (Cd, stated as a ratio therefore has no units) of a convertible can vary significantly if the roof is in the up or down position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's continue with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2011-mercedes-benz-e-class-e350-e550-cabriolet-official-photos-and-info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imre's example car&lt;/a&gt;: the 2011 Mercedes-Benz E550. The E550 coupe weights 3720 lbs (1690 kg) has a Cd of 0.24, and is rated at 15 / 23 mpg (city / highway). while The E550 cabrio weights 4160 lbs (1890 kg) has a Cd range from 0.28 to 0.38, and is rated at 15 / 19 mpg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EPA&lt;/a&gt;), increasing the vehicle weight by 100 lbs (45 kg) will reduce fuel efficiency by 1-2%. In theory, the ~400 lb weight difference will only account for a loss of 1-2 mpg. Additionally, as Force = Mass x Acceleration, the excess weight should have a greater effect on city driving, as that is when the most acceleration occurs (as opposed to the constant velocity experience in highway driving), though the EPA numbers do no reflect this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paraphrasing Max Schenkel, General Motors Technical Fellow in Aerodynamics (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/improving-aerodynamics-to-boost-fuel-economy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), &quot;a change in drag coefficient of 0.01 is approximately equal to an improvement in fuel economy of .... approximately 0.2 mpg&quot; .... &quot;on the combined city/highway driving cycle&quot;. If you took the extreme example of the E550 Cabrio with the AirCap activated, the difference in Cd between the coupe and cabrio cars is .14, which could very much account for the difference in highway fuel economy between the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T20:24:19.180" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T20:24:19.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2016-04-06T20:16:18.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dual mass flywheels are susceptible to high energy loads, heavy acceleration and deceleration , towing does not help either, smooth driving and avoid towing where possible , this driving style will add considerably to life of the dual mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real reason for dual mass is simply to add additional revenue to manufacturer supported workshops, since the introduction, gearboxes have become lighter, with lighter components such as synchromesh hub assembly's and more important carrier bearings, gearboxes are now manufactured significantly weaker taking advantage of the torque and vibration damping effects of dual mass flywheels . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It IS POSSIBLE WITH SOME VEHICLES TO SWAP OUT THE DUAL MASS FOR A SINGLE FIXED MASS FLYWHEEL&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the gearbox strength in the main.  Audi, VW, Nissan ,Volvo, BMW, Land Rover Alfa Romeo and maybe some others have strong gearboxes and are fine with single mass conversions. Vauxhall, Renault Peugeot Ford and perhaps others are not well made gearboxes and can suffer problems running single mass flywheels.  Some dual mass flywheels can cost up to £1000 on their own, outrageous really. The biggest manufacturer of dual mass flywheels are LUK and are fitted to many new vehicles as original equipment. LUK advertise 5 year warranty on replacement dual mass flywheels yet they are fitted to many new vehicles which only have 3 year warranties, work that out!. Forgot to mention starting the vehicle is a big issue to dual mass flywheels under cranking as a engine is all out of balance until it starts, avoid laboring the engine at low idle speeds trying to save fuel as that,s a big no no too, if you have a stop start vehicle turn it off, it will cause substantial wear to not only the dual mass but also the battery,the starter motor and the alternator and gearbox first motion shaft bearings on manual gearboxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16241" LastEditorUserId="16241" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T20:33:11.020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T20:33:11.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27940" CreationDate="2016-04-06T21:40:22.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go. The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system. You are going to want to read the stored codes. (On Board Diagnostics, for your car should be OBDII)  Not sure where you are located, but in my location Autozone offers a free service to read the codes for you. You can also purchase a code reader for $25 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not every single aspect of fuel, air and spark are captured by the engine control computer.  Generally codes are set when a sensor goes awry, or the fuel system isn't working correctly.  Again, not every failure mode will set a code. The computer system doesn't really know how to read successful spark. There are other faults that don't set codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many possible issues that make your car not start.  The starting place for this journey is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) You should purchase a paper repair manual for your vehicle. All of this stuff is explained quite well in there. Cost is around $30. Chiltons / Haynes are fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Obtain the codes from the memory of your engine control computer.  Report those exact codes from the OBDII reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what the codes are.  If, after running the car for ten or 15 minutes there are no codes set in OBDII memory, don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a whole lot of things that could be awry, including things like faulty spark plugs, faulty spark plug wires, faulty ignition module and faulty engine control computer, that DONT set a code in OBDII.  (Engine computer has a memory module with a central processor unit AND it has a whole bunch of electronic gates that control things.. It's quite possible the CPU is good, but an output electronic gate is awry. Been there done that...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't assume that your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. A competent mechanic can certainly troubleshoot items with OBDII feedback.  Other stuff is more difficult, but not impossible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally your car is more than ten years old.  Its quite easy for a wire to become worn and frayed, or a rubber hose to become brittle and cracked.  Have you at least done a careful visual inspection of EVERY hose and wire visible in the engine compartment?  How are your spark plug wires?  Are all of the electrical grounds in place and tight?  Its possible you've got a partially connected wire or loose ground somewhere.  That could affect a sensor, or a control module or even engine spark  etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T21:40:22.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27931" CreationDate="2016-04-06T22:19:00.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about this car specifically but I've had a whole lot of time working as an air conditioning (AC) engineer at a Detroit based Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body control module (BCM) provides an interface for relays in the system, generally for things inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle.  The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls how the engine is controlled, including air, fuel and spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, its not clear to me on what you mean by &quot;AC problems&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system has a few systems that control things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have ventilation mode control (which controls which vents the hot or cold air comes from.)  Generally in hot weather most folks want cold air to come out to them from panel vents so the air is pointed at their face.  Your car uses either cables and cams or small electric motors to control these doors.  The power for the electric motors is routed thru the Body Control Module.  Additionally there is a recirculation door... this shuts off outside air to the interior of the car.  In hot weather you want this door to be shut, other wise it should remain open.  This door is also controlled by cable or motor.  If its stuck open to outside air, it will adversely affect air conditioning cooling in hot weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a fan / blower control.  This allows you to change the air speed of the cooling air.  This is a pretty large current draw, and this is definitely controlled via the Body Control Module.  You didn't say if you have automatic / infinitely variable or multi-stop fan control.  If automatic or infinitely variable your car will be using some sort of Pulsed Width Module (PWM) control circuit.  If its a three or four discrete step fan they could be using a resistor block WITH thermal fuse.  (When that fuse goes the HVAC fan will NOT spin, you have to replace the resistor block.)  That resistor block should be mounted somewhere on the HVAC air duct area inside the car behind the instrument panel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've talked about modes (where the air comes from), about fan speed, now lets talk about refrigeration stuff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning refrigerant gets pumped by an engine driven compressor, cooled off from hot compressed gas to a liquid in front of the radiator in the condenser, forced thru a control valve system, expanded from liquid to gas in the Evaporator core (where it gets cold) and then cycled to the compressor again.  The compressor is a very large load on the engine.  In fact the engine control computer is very much a part of that system.  The compressor is controlled with a magnetic clutch / pulley system.  You can turn it on / off with an electrical relay.  But... because the load is so high, the computer bumps up the engine speed a bit BEFORE engaging the compressor.  If they didn't do that the car would die when at idle.  With that in mind, can you see why the circuitry is routed thru the Engine control module?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the engine control module also controls the engine cooling fan, some thing very critical to the refrigerant system.  It bumps up the fan speed when the A/C is running.  In fact, if the car sees a near overheat condition, then it will shut off the air conditioning so there is no damage to the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with that said... you've not provided any real details on what's not working with your air conditioning system...  We don't know if it's a mode issue, a blower fan issue, or a refrigerant related cooling issue.  There could be any one of fifty defects (I've probably seen most of them...) that could be wrong.  I wouldn't assume it was an expensive control module.  It's possible, but frankly I doubt it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a burnt thermal fuse on the blower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a crossed or frayed wire or pinout (Pin not seated within an electrical connector)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a sending unit issue related to the engine cooling system.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a refrigerant leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T22:19:00.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27954" CreationDate="2016-04-06T22:22:10.653" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few questions in there, so I will try to address them all. The Bueler Time Delay relays are unlike the vast majority of other relays you will find. The difference is that these relays are so-called &quot;smart&quot; relays. They have embedded circuitry that handles the triggering as well as the timing functions of the timed relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most relays (i.e. &quot;dumb relays&quot;), the internal construction consists of a solenoid coil that actuates an armature which connects and disconnects a circuit (based on the type of relay). There is a standardized pinout configuration for automotive relays, and pins 85 and 86 are the &quot;control pins&quot;. When you pass a DC current from pin 86 to pin 85, a magnetic field is created within the relay coil causing it to switch. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAeKTlieYhw&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; for a more in-depth explanation of how this works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you were probably told to use a Flyback Diode on pins 85 and 86 is because that is the proper way of protecting the relay coil circuit of a run of the mill relay. However, these timed relays are designed with a circuit that handles all of this for you. It has a logic component that is capable of timing events, and it is constantly monitoring the &quot;trigger&quot; pin (pin 86). Using a Flyback Diode on this type of relay is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the reason why the relay works as expected while manually unhooking the wire is because these relays trigger on a &quot;pulse&quot;. From the information I was able to gather on these relays (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYw8nsU_YX0&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;), the relay actuates for 2 minutes when the trigger pin is tied to 12V, not when it is disconnected. It's possible that you are causing a pulse on the trigger pin with the wire that you do not notice because it is happening on a millisecond scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test this by manually triggering the relay with a piece of wire. Does the relay switch immediately as soon as you touch 12V to pin 86, or does it wait until you remove it? If the relay switches immediately, the easiest way to trigger this relay would be to install a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01C7CQHAK&quot;&gt;momentary switch&lt;/a&gt; (or hijacking an existing one) somewhere in the car. Just press the switch before you exit the car and the fan will continue to run for the predetermined time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is undesirable, you can look into creating a single-shot circuit that fires each time you turn off the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T22:22:10.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27967" CreationDate="2016-04-06T23:21:17.077" Score="13" ViewCount="40818" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one came in today with a check engine light on and a complaint of running rough and won't accelerate past 30MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked the codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQQ14.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQQ14.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some misfire freeze frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAJSE.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAJSE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reset and went for a test drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Codes P0300, P0302 and P0303 come back right away. scan data shows a constant misfire on cylinders 2 &amp;amp; 3. Engine doesn't actually run rough I think the customer confused the limp mode rev limiter with rough running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looking at Stuff&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coil #2 primary side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKE4g.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKE4g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coil #3 shows the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark? looks good enough to me. Jumps a 30kV gap looks blue enough to rule out a secondary issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has around a 100k on it so maybe a valve is sticking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAP sensor voltage looks OK &amp;lt; .90v with the engine hot @ idle. Pretty much rules out a sticking valve or the valves being out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trims look OK live readings weren't far off from the freeze frame. No vacuum leaks, all hoses secure and accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about engine compression?  &gt; 150psi on each cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugs? Not exactly new but looked OK. Some minor oil varnish around the ceramic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about bad injectors? To be honest I didn't even bother checking. Injectors on these motors rarely fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pressure? Around 50psi, good enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how about that Crank Position Sensor code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5IXt.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5IXt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks OK to me. No drop outs. Signal looks clean. Connector is secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about water intrusion? Seems to be the most likely. And it did snow a few days back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately by the time the car came in the connector was dry. Pins looked pretty clean hit it with some dielectric grease and plugged it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the deal?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before anyone says check the injectors, it's not the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this would be a good problem for someone to think on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of just posting the solution I'll give someone else a chance to respond and be a hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T23:38:00.780" Title="2009 Honda Accord 2.4l P0300 P0302 P0303 P0339" Tags="|honda|accord|p0300|p0339|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T23:44:36.280" Score="5" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 ignition key. One key will start the car no problem. Most recently, however, the other key will turn and the engine just grinds but won't start. Put the other key in, and the engine starts!  Volvo whats $149 to check my system out before they will acknowledge that it's the key. How do I do this more cheaply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16246" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T20:53:43.373" Title="volvo ignition key" Tags="|ignition|volvo|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T01:49:26.433" Score="10" ViewCount="12411" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently purchased this motorcycle from a third party. 2 days ago it would start up fine and you could ride it. The guy I brought it from said the battery was acting cranky so you should change it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same day I had the bike on the kickstand and it dropped on its left side and I also believe I had the switch on (the red button on the right side of the bike) but ignition off. When I picked the bike up I didn't think about starting it I just put it away. The next day I changed the battery and my bike would not start. It would make a few noises, nothing from the exhaust pipes though. After a couple times I would get no noise when I tried starting the bike and eventually the lights dimmed on the bike and the back lights wouldn't be lit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a plug to something on the right side of the bike in between  the oil tank and the battery that was not connected. I couldn't find no place that the plug could possibly go to. Even with the plug as it is the bike would make the noise but eventually I would get nothing. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rekVg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rekVg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;left side of bike is picture 1 &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJx9V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJx9V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;right side of bike is picture 2 &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZzHp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZzHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gzdKN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;][&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiDCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiDCl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJCkf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJCkf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IY3FA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IY3FA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16247" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T17:43:53.710" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T04:05:06.693" Title="2003 Suzuki Katana GSX600F - No Start Issue" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starter|suzuki|katana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27963" CreationDate="2016-04-07T02:24:58.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should place the old battery back in and check if it starts there.. If it does, then there could possible be something faulty about the battery you replaced it with (Try getting a brand new battery instead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the bike fell to the side, was there any damage? Check if anything was broken (e.g. power cables etc.). That could be one thing to do, just give the bike a general check over making sure everything is connected correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the plug, it is likely its a testing plug used when doing maintenance on the bike, and should sit in a little slot made it for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: This is just general knowledge of a everyday person, I do not own said bike, this is just what I would do if I was in the same situation as yourself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T02:24:58.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22982" CreationDate="2016-04-07T04:44:48.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle is 2008 or newer it is using the can protocol, you can use the &#xA;AT CR command to select which ECU you want to hear from.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's how:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;send&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT H1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this will turn on headers to see the addresses of the ECU's.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;send&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is an OBD command to show which of the pids from 1-20 are supported.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;your response should be like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8064100BE3EA813&#xA;7E906410098188013&#xA;&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this shows that you have 2 ECUs  7E8 (engine) 7E9 (transmission),&lt;br&gt;I have seen 5 ECUs returned: 7E8,7E9,7EA,7EB,7EC.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In order to hear from just one ECU you issue AT CRA xxx where xxx is ECU address.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;send the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT CRA 7E8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will return:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8064100BE3EA813&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;send &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT H0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to turn off headers then send:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and you will get back just &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4100BE3EA813&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle is a 29 bit can then the 0100 resonse will look something like:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;18DAF11806410088180013&#xA;18DAF110064100BE5FA813&#xA;&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this shows 2 ECUs  18DAF118 (transmission) and 18DAF110 (engine).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;send &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AT CRA 18DAF110&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to hear just from the engine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10365" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T04:44:48.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27591" CreationDate="2016-04-07T05:01:36.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More than likely, you have an air leak&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't cleaned out and rebuilt a bunch of 4 carburetor banks in your life there is a good chance you have accidentally created an air leak in the system.  Unmetered air will create the symptoms you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The giveaway on most lean conditions is the falling idle.  It idles high and is getting enough fuel but the cylinders with the lean condition begin to misfire, the idle rapidly drops and eventually the engine stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Places to check&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manifolds - you have four rubber manifolds that are 34 years old.  The manifolds get dry rotted.  The rubber goes through too many heat cycles and too much UV light exposure over that period of time and the manifolds can easily crack and allow unmetered air into the system.  Unmetered air enters the engine between the head and the slide or butterfly of the carburetor or throttle body.  This changes the anticipated Air Fuel Ratio and creates a lean condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some information regarding dry rot of a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21113/can-dry-rot-be-prevented-for-long-term-storage/21147#21147&quot;&gt;Can dry rot be prevented for long term storage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a QA on identifying lean or rich conditions on a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshooting Techniques&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some methods to troubleshoot and discover if you really do have a lean condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24712/what-is-the-propane-test-and-how-is-it-carried-out&quot;&gt;What is the &amp;quot;propane test&amp;quot; and how is it carried out?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have completed your troubleshooting and resolved the issue, you will want to balance your carburetors.  Here is some instruction on that procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3676/motorcycle-four-body-carburetor-synchronization-balancing/24312#24312&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Four Body Carburetor Synchronization Balancing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's frustrating issue to troubleshoot, patience is the key as well as tenacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking this may be a valve adjustment issue but your post doesn't have all the symptoms.  If your clearance is too tight and you need to put in thinner shims you will get similar symptoms but the bike won't start when it gets hot after a ride.  You would need to wait for it to cool, the valve stems shrink just enough to allow the valve to close all the way and then you can start and it acts normal until it gets warm/hot.  So I believe that focusing on a lean condition, checking all of the vacuum lines and ensuring they are connected to your vacuum petcock, your vacuum fuel pump (yes, you have one of those on that model) as well as the YICS bolts on the sides of your cylinder head along with the manifolds is going to be key to success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check those links in this post.  The information you need is in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good measure, here's a link to instruction on adjusting the valves on a very similar bike to yours.  In fact, it's the same exact cylinder head.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3484/xj600-1994-seca-2/24316#24316&quot;&gt;XJ600 1994 Seca 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T05:01:36.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27960" CreationDate="2016-04-07T06:06:16.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spark? looks good enough to me. Jumps a 30kV gap looks blue enough to rule out a secondary issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAP sensor voltage looks OK &amp;lt; .90v with the engine hot @ idle. Pretty much rules out a sticking valve or the valves being out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concur, and just about rules out engine pumping problems. That and the&#xA;good compression test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel trims look OK live readings weren't far off from the freeze frame. No vacuum leaks, all hoses secure and accounted for.&#xA;How about engine compression? &amp;gt; 150psi on each cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good result if it was closed throttle.  I like to check&#xA;compression WOT, if possible, which would give numbers more like 180+&#xA;psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugs? Not exactly new but looked OK. Some minor oil varnish around the ceramic.&#xA;Cool.&#xA;How about bad injectors? To be honest I didn't even bother checking. Injectors on these motors rarely fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concur, we have never had a problem with any of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pressure? Around 50psi, good enough for me.  Great.&#xA;So how about that Crank Position Sensor code?&#xA;Looks OK to me. No drop outs. Signal looks clean. Connector is secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice graph, looks normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about water intrusion? Seems to be the most likely. And it did snow a few days back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible, but you saw none and it usually does not dry out on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ruled out actual misfire and seeing no current failure of the crank sensor a different approach is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next move is to check and replace battery, repair any voltage loss to&#xA;starter as needed to resolve the slow cranking problem. Then reflash per TSB 09-050.  Perform crank relearn. Then retest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose this route because you stated the engine was not&#xA;running rough which I take to mean there is no actual misfire felt or&#xA;seen in scan data while running.  And the codes set immediately after&#xA;the start. which is the condition covered by the reflash. I see&#xA;nothing particularly unusual in the freeze frame data. Looks like most&#xA;Hondas of this era 8 seconds after start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T06:15:25.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T07:46:04.147" Score="5" ViewCount="4665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have started to notice that there's coolant (presumably) leaking from the engine. There's no obvious leak when you look at the engine from below right after you have driven it, but it leaves a puddle on the ground after it's been parked for several hours. The engine seems to be working fine, haven't had overheating issues, but I'm losing coolant and I'm afraid if I don't do something it will lead to bigger issues. Any ideas what could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 5 speed Holden Astra 2001 sedan&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://design.imago.ee/test/auto2.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The puddle on the ground http://design.imago.ee/test/auto2.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://design.imago.ee/test/auto3.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The place where it seems to be dripping from http://design.imago.ee/test/auto3.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15178" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T08:50:45.290" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T23:16:43.743" Title="Mysterious coolant leak HOLDEN ASTRA" Tags="|coolant|leak|astra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21267" CreationDate="2016-04-07T10:11:40.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you may have damaged your throttle position sensor.  However, the first thing I would do is to reset all of the electrical systems in the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to do this and be sure it's done is to remove both battery clamps and attach them to each other (without the battery present in the circuit).  This will drain any capacitors and reset all systems in the car.  It's equivalent of switching your PC off and back on again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find after this that everything starts working again.  I don't know if your throttle position sensor has a calibration mode but doing this should force a recalibration of everything on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be quite surprised if the alternator has failed.  If it has, it's likely to only be the control module which in most cases can be replaced separately to the entire alternator.  I'd reasonably suggest that you may want to search out an Auto-Electrician (there is such a thing) rather than using a general Mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T10:11:40.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T10:58:52.080" Score="3" ViewCount="3896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Buick Reale and it jumps and jerks when I stop at light or stop sign, and it also flutters doing take off or acceleration. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16249" LastEditorUserId="1591" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T11:06:12.783" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T00:25:49.547" Title="Why does my car jerk and jump when I stop?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T12:20:30.310" Score="4" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 2016 Dodge Caravan that has the DVD entertainment system in it.  It comes with 2 headsets to start with but I'm wanting to get a few more.  It uses a IR interface.  What is the standard that this works on?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for a product req (but feel free to comment some), just trying to get a feel for what I need to look for, what options there are out there, and compatibility issues I'll come across.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6799" LastEditorUserId="6799" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T12:29:25.700" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T13:30:15.377" Title="Wireless headset standard for Dodge Van" Tags="|audio|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27971" CreationDate="2016-04-07T13:30:15.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really the only thing you need to know is what you've figured out already - the headsets work with IR emmiters built into the entertainment system of the van.  There appears to only be one &quot;standard&quot; and searching for &quot;Dodge Caravan IR headset&quot; will give you tons of choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would look at is to make sure the headsets are &quot;dual channel&quot; capable.  My van has a dual DVD player so the second row can watch a different movie than the third row.  The headsets must be able to handle and separate the two signals for this setup to work.  Maybe &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the IR headsets are capable of this and some vendors advertise it heavily while others don't.  The aftermarket headphones I bought have a simple 1/2 switch to pick a channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the same headphones will also work in a VW Routan since it's just a re-badged Dodge Caravan, complete with the same DVD entertainment system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T13:30:15.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27997" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:18:00.180" Score="5" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off I have a 2009 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with just over 120k miles on it. A couple weeks ago I began having some issues starting the car. The car would try to turn over once or twice then stop. Once I would wait a second and try again it would go. This issue happened most often when I would try to restart my car within 15 or 20 minutes of shutting it off. In these instances I would turn the key and the lights would turn on but nothing else would happen until the second or third time trying to start the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week I took it to the garage and they tested the old battery and checked the starter and they said everything was fine including the cables. Although the battery was technically good, it was a couple years old and to rule that out I replaced the battery anyway. However a week later the issue has started to come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help in figuring this out would be much appreciated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS&#xA;Since I got close to 120k miles I have started having phantom issues. A month and a half ago my check engine light started flashing and I lost virtually all engine power but once I parked it at the garage and they started it up the issue was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16250" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:33:28.733" Title="Hard time starting car, Tried New Battery but issue has returned" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:20:08.687" Score="-1" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had recently started learning a four wheeler (Maruti ALTO) from driving school. Its some week course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that should i buy a new car (New ALTO K10 or say SWIFT) or buy a old one as i might be learning and might end up ruining new car, its clutch plates etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a plan to buy a new car as its financing is easier and less chance of breaking down unlike old car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16251" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T15:45:56.000" Title="Buy a new car or old car" Tags="|car|old-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-04-07T16:43:22.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23716" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:33:28.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sumps on most if not all Volkswagen watercooled engines can be changed with the engine still in the car including the Bora V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:33:28.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="645" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:40:36.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Vibe and I followed the directions &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=14893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to disable both driver and passenger side seat belt alarms (I don't know of a way to just do passenger side):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the key to on (don't start the car,) then change the odometer to display &quot;odo&quot; and not trip A or B.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the key off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn the key back to on. Within six seconds of doing this, press and hold the odometer button. Do so for 10 seconds. Then, while still holding the button, buckle up, then unbuckle. The &quot;odo&quot; display should then change to say &quot;b-on.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let go of the odo button to get it to read &quot;b-off.&quot; Then wait for the display to change back to the odometer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you don't have a seatbelt buckled when the car is running, the belt warning dash light will continue flashing, but it won't beep at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16252" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:40:36.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27962" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:55:16.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a method by which you can diagnose the problem to confirm your suspicions that one of your keys has failed I can suggest the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In close proximity to the ignition barrel, literally around the outer radius, is an RFID reader.  When you place the key in the ignition, this energies and attempts to rear the transponder code from the ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Embedded within the plastic part of the key is an RFID chip which responds with a unique code.  If the car either does not receive this code or receives a code which it does not recognize, it will either not start the engine or the engine will start and them immediately shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm that this is happening you could hold the key which you know does work against the transponder ring whilst trying to start the car with the key which does not work.  If the car starts, you know that one of two things has happened.  Either;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The transponder in the bad key has failed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The transponder code is no longer recognized by the car which it is attempting to start&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either circumstance, what you do if you prove this is entirely up to you.  From what I've read online, Volvo keys can only be added by a main dealer as you need to purchase a new (not used) key.  New Volvo keys include a slip of paper which features a security code which the main dealer needs to give the car in order for the car to start accepting the new transponder code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be one option but obviously it would be costly and if the car isn't work much, is probably not economically viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to only use the know good key with the car.  Place the other key somewhere safe and accept that all it will let you do is unlock the car should the known good key become locked in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final option, which I've seen done a few times, is to extract the transponder chip from the key and secure it to the transponder ring.  This will therefore mean both keys will start the car but will effectively disable to engine immobilization built into the car.  If the car isn't worth much and isn't likely to be stolen but you do need two working keys, perhaps this would be a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure you don't loose the known good transponder once it's been extracted from the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight alternative to this, which again, I've seen.  Keep the transponder hidden somewhere securely in the car and hold it against the transponder ring only to start the car.  This brings back an element of the security but still would allow both keys to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:55:16.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27974" CreationDate="2016-04-07T15:45:56.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How used are we talking here? For me, I always take the price and divide by miles available. I like to always make that number 100,000 miles before major maintenance is required. For instance, if I bought a $20,000 car new, I would divide $ into miles. Therefore, it would be $0.20/mile at 100,000 miles. So if a car has 70,000 miles and costs $10,000, it would be $0.33/mile for 30,000 miles. Usually at 100,000 you will be looking at timing belt, water pump, tensioner, tune up, suspension, etc, etc. That is why I use that mile number. I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15848" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T15:45:56.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27850" CreationDate="2016-04-07T19:07:10.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://certified-transmission.blogspot.com/2011/12/understanding-aw-55-50-neutral-control.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://certified-transmission.blogspot.com/2011/12/understanding-aw-55-50-neutral-control.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very similar to others manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The AW 55-50 transmission has a feature that Volvo calls “Neutral&#xA;  Control”. What it “Neutral Control” and what is its function? To tell&#xA;  you the truth, I wasn’t really sure, but below is what I was able to&#xA;  both find and figure out about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When coming to a complete stop in drive with your foot on the brake,&#xA;  the TCM waits 2 seconds before disengaging drive or shifting the&#xA;  transmission into neutral. This feature is designed to reduce&#xA;  emissions and to minimize any idle vibrations. When the brake pedal is&#xA;  released, this re-engages drive. This is a very smooth and seamless&#xA;  process that is never felt by the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can google this &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted.google.com/#q=automatic+transmission+neutral+control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://encrypted.google.com/#q=automatic+transmission+neutral+control&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T19:07:10.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27995" CreationDate="2016-04-07T20:56:31.653" Score="5" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Mercury Sable 4D Premium LS (Duratec 24V DOHC 3.0L engine) smells like a musty swamp.  The door seals leaked a couple years ago, letting in water.  Since then it has smelled awful.  I'm gotten rid of some of it by cleaning the carpets with TuffStuff, but it still smells bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get rid of that swampy smell?  I don't want any gators moving into it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14355" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T01:01:21.017" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T10:59:24.650" Title="How to get the swamp smell out of my car?" Tags="|smell|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28041" CreationDate="2016-04-08T02:30:47.070" Score="4" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jelME.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jelME.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I have a 1995 Mercury Tracer Trio that needs new tires. I do not have the wheel lock key/tool to remove them though. Is there an alternate way to remove them without having to take it to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastEditorUserId="4512" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T18:19:24.927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T08:46:59.383" Title="How do you take wheel locks off a '95 Mercury Tracer?" Tags="|wheels|locks|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T04:15:57.130" Score="4" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jeep check engine light came on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My volt meter went to 0.1. I changed the alternator and it worked for about 10 seconds and it went out. I installed another one and it did the same thing!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the issue?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16264" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T04:26:15.643" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T04:15:33.657" Title="98 jeep wrangler 4- cylinder charging problems" Tags="|jeep|alternator|charging|wrangler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27963" CreationDate="2016-04-08T05:25:07.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I believe your clutch safety switch has been damaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a switch underneath your clutch lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It forces you to pull the clutch in to start the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small phillips head #2 screw that holds in place.  It can be adjusted and slid back and forth to engage properly with the clutch lever.  You can see where the switch hits the lever if you look at the underside of the clutch lever.  As well, the wire to the switch may have fallen off.  It plugs back in easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another post where this is listed as a possible issue after an owner dropped their Katana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6486/suzuku-katana-does-not-start-after-an-accident/24640#24640&quot;&gt;Suzuku Katana does not start after an accident&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the part on parts explosion of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/2000-suzuki-katana-gsx750f-handle-switch-assembly.html?partnum=37560-38A00&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clutch switch&lt;/a&gt;.  It's #8.  The image is for a 2000 750 but it's the same as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You also have a side stand switch that your kickstand hits when it is up.  Make sure that is in place and the kickstand can hit it properly. It's a grounding switch and your bike can't run unless the switch is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;depressed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have a tip over sensor attached to your battery box.  That's the plastic shell your batter rests in. The tip over sensor has a black rubber encasement that wraps around 4 sides of it. The tip over sensor is black. It has an arrow stamped on it, not the rubber but the plastic. You want that arrow pointed up to the sky. If it's not pointed in that direction, the bike won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, you have to know it's something simple.  The bike fell over, now it doesn't start. Chances are the two events are related. I'm just saying, don't overthink it, it's probably something not complicated. Good luck troubleshooting. It's the stuff of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T10:23:43.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28006" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:07:53.353" Score="11" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;What car do you think this is? My guess is new 2017 VW Tiguan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken 8 April 2016 in Brisbane , Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shuSh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shuSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUdRK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUdRK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16265" LastEditorUserId="16265" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T21:35:48.850" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T21:35:48.850" Title="Anyone know what car this is?" Tags="|vw|car|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27987" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:45:38.897" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the lights and body shapes I would say it looks like a 2015 Volkswagen Touareg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0LeaH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0LeaH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Touareg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T07:45:38.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27992" CreationDate="2016-04-08T08:25:37.917" Score="8" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing emissions testing, they connect to the battery, either directly, or using the cigarette lighter socket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that this is to measure the RPMs, as the only other thing connected to the car is a gas analyzer in the tail pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering exactly the method by which this gives an RPM reading, and if problems with the charging system, like for example low voltage, can change the results of the emissions test and how?  This question came up because I noticed that the RPM reading they were getting was 2700 while on my tach it says 3000, and my voltage is weak at 13.75v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T09:31:17.933" Title="Connecting to the Battery During Emissions Testing to Measure RPMs?" Tags="|alternator|emissions|charging|tachometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T09:09:47.537" Score="8" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 89 camaro with a 350 engine, where can I find the fuel valve where I connect the fuel pressure tester? I looked up videos on where it's located but mine doesn't seem to have it, is there another way to test it like removing a line and connecting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15724" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T22:27:14.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:14:14.403" Title="Can't find schrader valve" Tags="|engine|camaro|fuel-pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28000" CreationDate="2016-04-08T09:12:52.437" Score="15" ViewCount="8614" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 10 year old Litchfield Forester STi needs a bit of maintenance to sort a minor oil leak but other than that has been behaving well for the past year with regular oil top ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This week on the drive home I first noticed there was no heating in the car, and then the engine temperature started to spike up towards the red line. So I pulled over, let the engine cool and did some basic checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top of the radiator was cool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil was low, so I topped it up as normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water level in radiator overflow bottle was fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carefully opening the radiator cap, no steam came out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continued on slowly but was only getting about 400 yards before the temperature would get towards the red line again. Very occasionally I'd get a burst of warm air through the heating in the car, but then it would run cold again. Running the interior heating fans did help to cool the car faster, but again, on checking the radiator and all exposed bits of the engine block, nothing felt very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T14:44:00.917" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T07:58:30.527" Title="Strange overheating behaviour" Tags="|subaru|overheating|forester|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27989" CreationDate="2016-04-08T09:31:17.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The voltage being a little low (13.75 is not low enough to be considered a problem in any case) is not going to affect their RPM reading - as it's the frequency of voltage variations that is measured to get your RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to say your tach is out slightly. You could ask them about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a smartphone app that you can use to gauge RPMs - it does it by sound (you have to input number of cylinders and some other info and it works out RPMs) - I'm trying to find a link to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T09:31:17.933" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2016-04-08T09:49:57.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it sounds like your thermostat may be stuck in closed position.&#xA;Hints that point to this are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;no heating in the car&#xA;  top of the radiator was cool&#xA;  radiator cap, no steam came out&#xA;  ,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple test is to remove it and put it in boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this solves your problem since thermostats are relativley cheap and easy to replace at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link with aditional methods of testing a thermostat: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-Your-Car&amp;#39;s-Thermostat-Is-Stuck-Closed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WikiHow Termostat Testing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T11:26:25.460" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:26:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27981" CreationDate="2016-04-08T10:59:24.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I need to really clean carpet (in the car or in the house), I fill up a pump sprayer with assorted cleaning products (including dish soap, oxyclean, simple green degreaser, odoban disinfectant, carpet stain remover) and mostly water.  Test your mixture under the seats first to make sure it doesn't change the color of the carpet. Soak the area down good, and suck it up with a wet/dry vac.  Let the car air out, as you just introduced a lot of liquid to the car, and want it to all evaporate away ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not work, you will need to remove the carpet to determine the extent of the damage.  The mold may be in the insulation.  It is also possible the water will pool under the back seats.  Don't forget the trunk, this is a popular place for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T10:59:24.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2016-04-08T11:31:26.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am leaning toward the water pump.  The cool radiator and heater core are a sign that the hot coolant is not being moved around.  Coolant should always flow through the heater core while the temperature is turned to hot, regardless of the thermostat.  It could also be the heater core is clogged ( or heater core valve not working) and the thermostat is stuck.  It is unlikely both of these things would happen at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by flushing the coolant system.  Be sure to remove the heater core lines from the block and flush the heater core separate.  Make sure water can flow through freely.  Same with the radiator.  When you are done, install a new thermostat (they are cheap) and gasket.  Top off the system.  See if this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not help, replace the water pump.  This is a big job, which is why I suggest flushing the system first.  I believe the water pump is run by the timing belt on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:31:26.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27973" CreationDate="2016-04-08T11:33:28.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it needs a new starter Honda OE starters do the slow crank then click thing when they start to go. Next time it acts up see if you can smack it with something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your phantom issue sounds like the ECM Lost it's crankshaft variation pattern and regained it. You would need to get codes pulled to verify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:33:28.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28005" CreationDate="2016-04-08T11:49:38.470" Score="15" ViewCount="54086" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've all heard this tip - &lt;em&gt;&quot;start with the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder and finish with the closest one&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Does the sequence really matter? What exactly happens if we don't keep this sequence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this tip even apply with modern systems, such as double circuit diagonally split brake systems? ABS systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T06:56:43.727" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T08:41:04.137" Title="Does the brake bleeding sequence really matter?" Tags="|brakes|bleeding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T11:50:51.750" Score="4" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new Mahindra Scorpio S10 and have been trying to read the CAN bus using ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD and Putty.&#xA;Configurations in Putty: Baud Rate 9600 (tried 115200 also), Data bits: 10, Stop bits: 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been getting data for mode 01 and PIDs like 0c (RPM), 0d (Speed) but I am not able to get data like distance travelled since fault code cleared (which I guess is locked by the manufacturer). I am sending the command 010c and getting the response 7E8 04 41 0c 0c 84&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover when I send 2132 command I get the VIN number (compared with 0902 command which gives the VIN). I started sending 2110,2111,2112,.....2199 and received data for a few commands (out of which 2130 and 2133 gave a bigger number of 34 and 36 bytes, seems to be some identification number).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me how can I decode the values I am getting. Is there any manual/website for Mahindra CAN data and its custom PIDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T11:50:51.750" Title="CAN data for Mahindra" Tags="|obd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2016-04-08T12:10:04.537" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the other two answers were ones that were going through my head while I was waiting for the service truck to arrive, the actual problem was much simpler (although much more expensive to fix)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engineer initially looked in the radiator coolant overflow bottle and saw it was at a sensible level, but after having a quick look at the oil dipstick he also opened up the &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; radiator coolant caps (one is at the radiator and one is further back towards the turbo) and the coolant level in the overflow bottle dropped, instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He couldn't see any liquid in them so started pouring coolant into the radiator...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and it took an entire bottle! The radiator and cooling system was almost empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my quick look at the coolant bottle threw me off track - the entire problem was low coolant, which is why only occasionaly would I get heat, as what little coolant there was got pumped round, and an airlock prevented me seeing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sign of a good mechanic - he then followed me in his truck to the next service station, where he checked the fluids again - including dipping a finger into the coolant and tasting it, and he mentioned the taste of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Root cause diagnosis - cylinder head gasket has a leak (hence my oil consumption) finally leading to water escaping from the engine block into the engine and eventually ending up empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T12:10:04.537" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27987" CreationDate="2016-04-08T14:23:18.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a Mitsubishi Outlander ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=mitsubishi+outlander&amp;amp;view=detailv2&amp;amp;&amp;amp;id=AED0F3383168D8DB27732CFFD0B797F121B3A2EE&amp;amp;selectedIndex=46&amp;amp;ccid=qolfl%2bUA&amp;amp;simid=608055567763571954&amp;amp;thid=OIP.Maa895f97e50061959c0f136e5abd79e7o0&amp;amp;ajaxhist=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bing Image Search Results&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16270" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T17:26:09.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T17:26:09.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2016-04-08T14:32:10.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermostat stuck closed sounds most likely to me.  Although...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this happen to me on an old Peugeot.  I checked the thermostat, and it was open, so I went looking for other causes.  Still couldn't figure it.  Then I found bits of plastic in the coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out the thermostat housing on that Peugeotwas badly designed.  The thermostat pin was pushing on a thin plastic strut, and that strut had simply snapped off.  Result was that the valve didn't open and the car overheated.  Peugeotclearly knew about this as a design fault, because the new thermostat housing had a much chunkier strut for the thermostat pin to push against!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Ah, just seen you've answered it yourself.  Never mind. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T14:32:10.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28018" CreationDate="2016-04-08T14:43:08.577" Score="9" ViewCount="5909" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the vents start putting out hot air when accelerating or driving up hills but are ice cold when idling, is that a sign of a failing blower pump or leak? I am dealing with a Ford Econoline E350. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerant is obviously not the problem because the air is cold when idling. The air usually stays cold in the front but the back half of the vehicle's vents are blowing out hot air.Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11084" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:34:29.907" Title="Ford Econoline Van AC Failing" Tags="|ford|ac|troubleshooting|e350|econoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27990" CreationDate="2016-04-08T14:56:40.387" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have Tuned Port Injection (TPI), the Schrader valve is located at the back of the fuel rail on the passenger side (near the distributor). You have to use a 90° elbow in order to attach it, because the upper plenum sits right over the top of it. If your engine is carb'd, you'll not have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here is a little broader picture of my own personal 86 Camaro IROC-Z with the TPI. In the picture you can see the distributor at the back center, with the intake manifold ahead of it. The two intake runners for cylinders 5 &amp;amp; 7 are plainly visible. The injectors for 6 &amp;amp; 8 have green arrows pointing to them. The rail is sitting right on top of these two injectors. The Schrader valve has the red box around it. The cap is present on this, yours may not have it there or it might. If the top of your engine does lot look like this, you do not have a TPI system in your vehicle. We'd need a picture of your intake and engine to decipher exactly what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmvaU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmvaU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T21:14:14.403" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:14:14.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27998" CreationDate="2016-04-08T15:21:12.277" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sequence matters. If you have a lot of air right after your master cylinder for whatever reason, that air can travel to any point in the system. At some point, the hydraulic line attached to the master cylinder will branch to each of the four wheels. As you pump the brakes, the air will propagate down the hydraulic line, and randomly go down one of the branches towards one of the four wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and bleed it until there is no air, and then move on to the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (just as an example), as you're pumping the air out of that longest branch you could realistically get more air bubbles in the shortest branch. You wouldn't even get that air out, because you've already bled that wheel and you think you're done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start with the furthest wheel, though, you minimize the possibility that you miss air bubbles. This is because when you move from the furthest wheel to the second furthest wheel, you now only have fluid flowing past three of the four branches. There is no fluid that is passing that fourth branch, so there's less chance of air getting in there. Here is a rough illustration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# Rough Image&#xA;                        -------&#xA;                       |       |&#xA;                       |       | &amp;lt;- Master Cylinder&#xA;                        -------&#xA;                           |&#xA;     Closest Wheel  -&amp;gt; ----|&#xA;                           |&#xA;                           |------- &amp;lt;- Second Closest Wheel&#xA;                           |&#xA;                           |&#xA;3rd Closest Wheel -&amp;gt; ----- |&#xA;                           |&#xA;                           |&#xA;                           |--------- &amp;lt;- 4th Closest Wheel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, hopefully you can see via this illustration that if you are bleeding the 3rd closest wheel, there isn't any fluid flowing past the branch to the Fourth closest. However, when you are bleeding the 3rd closest, there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; fluid flowing past the Second and 1st closest, meaning that you still need to bleed those when you're done with the third closest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As pointed out in the comments, you should always refer to your manufacturer's instructions for the correct maintenance procedure for this and any other maintenance you perform on your vehicle. What I've provided here is just an explanation as to why the rule of thumb exists regarding a standard order for bleeding brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T12:31:28.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T12:31:28.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27987" CreationDate="2016-04-08T16:09:40.067" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a custom-wrapped VW Touareg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it belongs to an employee at Vehicle Wraps, a custom-wrap shop in Brisbane. There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1624431417821849.1073741894.1411370919127901&amp;amp;type=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a gallery on their Facebook page&lt;/a&gt; documenting the process and the gallery description reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bape no more we have wrapped the Touareg to match my Moth Sailing Boat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/27988/16272&quot;&gt;what year the model is&lt;/a&gt;, but the pictures were uploaded in November, and have a lot of good detail. So, someone else may be able to identify the year based on the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T16:09:40.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27503" CreationDate="2016-04-08T19:03:50.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will all depend on the type of fuel pump that your vehicle uses. The stronger the pump, the larger the pressure difference it can manage. If you wanted to calculate a theoretical limit, I guess you could estimate it by calculating the fluid power based on the flow rate your engine requires and the pressure upstream of the fuel filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = Pressure * volumetric flow rate&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're careful with the units in your equation, but this will tell you the maximum pressure you can have upstream of your fuel filter before your fuel pump craps out. As an example, if you have a 0.05 watt fuel pump and your engine uses 0.1 gal/hr of fuel, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pressure = Power / volumetric flow rate &#xA;         = 0.05 watt / 0.1 gal/hr &#xA;         = (0.05 watt * 0.73756 ft-lb/s * 1/watt) * (1 hr / 0.1 gal * 3600 sec/hr * 1 gal / 0.133681 ft^3 * 1 ft^2 / 144 in^2)&#xA;         = 68.9 PSI&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dunno if 0.05 Watts is typical for a fuel pump. I do think 0.1 gal/hr is realistic for fuel rate at idle. So, based on this analysis, our pump can handle 68 PSI. If the fuel line pressure is 60 PSI, then that means we can handle an 8 PSI increase in pressure due to a restriction in the fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that this analysis is very very basic, and does not take into account pump efficiency or pressure drop due to the pipe length and other obstructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T19:03:50.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28009" CreationDate="2016-04-08T19:17:57.670" Score="8" ViewCount="4290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 litre bottle of oil out back that I was going to top my car up with when I realised it's been out on the sun for about a month, the bottle is opaque and does not let sunlight through (apart from a slit in the front to show the remaining oil level) I’m just curious to know if the sun damages engine oil in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13651" LastActivityDate="2021-09-04T12:56:58.107" Title="Effects of sunlight on engine oil" Tags="|oil|lubrication|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28008" CreationDate="2016-04-08T19:32:09.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine oil is normally kept inside a light-proof steel box (your engine), so you might not find much information on how it's affected by sunlight.  However, other industries use lubricating oil that can be exposed to the sun, and I found this report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/789/sunlight-lubricant-degradation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunlight Degradation of Lubricants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV light is the enemy, and it can affect oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On a molecular level, the long chain lubricant hydrocarbon reacts with oxygen in the presence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows some oil before and after being exposed to the sun for 5 days:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncYKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ncYKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the opaque bottle your oil is in (and even the clear-ish strip on the side) will block most, if not all, of the UV light.  If you're really worried, you can buy a 1L bottle of the same oil and compare it with whats in your 5L jug, but I don't think there's going to be an issue.  My main worry would be if the jug wasn't properly sealed it would get water or bugs or something in it, but that doesn't sound like the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T19:32:09.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T20:20:30.657" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a bad idle when the engine aforementioned is warm.&#xA;Can somebody please help me troubleshoot this problem ?&#xA;Here are the parameters when the engine is idling rough &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Af05C.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Af05C.png&quot; alt=&quot;Alfa 164 3.0 v6 parameters when hot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16277" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T23:23:07.913" Title="'90 alfa 164 V6 3.0 12v bad idle when hot / hard to start / bad rev under 2000 rpm" Tags="|rough-idle|idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T21:18:47.683" Score="3" ViewCount="1176" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend just bought a manual 2012 Ford Focus and I tried it first because she didn't know how to drive with a stick yet (only auto). However, I was a bit struggling when shifting between first and second gear (it wasn't super smooth) because I am used to my car. My car is a 2004 Toyota Matrix and the clutch has a really high engagement point, compared to the Focus where it is much closer to the floor (lower). Also, the Focus clutch is really soft and light (more reactive and nervous), while mine is much stiffer and heavy (takes some time to come back to initial position if dropped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I decided to rev it up a bit to try it. I went to about 5-6k on first gear and that was fine, but when I shifted to second and released the clutch (too quickly I think), it did a big and loud &quot;TOCK!&quot;, just about the same sound as when your suspension hit a big hole on the road. She was like &quot;what the heck&quot; and me too, so I didn't tried it again. After this moment, I noticed nothing wrong and everything was going just like before it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what did this sound? Are there some parts that could have been damaged? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastEditorUserId="16281" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T22:15:21.323" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T09:57:23.317" Title="Worrying sound while shifting : released the clutch too quickly?" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2016-04-08T22:54:33.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That shouldn't be happening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a fan on the back of the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think @paulster2 has two very salient points he stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wetter water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;possible bad thermostat&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to reiterate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a fan.  It has a cowling and everything.  If your bike is overheating in slow traffic there is an issue.  No if, ands or buts.  You need to figure that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your low hanging fruit possibilities are really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the fan coming.  If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is your thermostat opening up when it's hot.  If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you using the appropriate coolant or just straight water?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to idle in traffic for hours and not have your bike overheat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this test to see if your thermostat is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23767/how-can-i-test-my-thermostat&quot;&gt;How can I test my thermostat?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your running water for coolant, dump it and use what KTM recommends.  Check your owners manual for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fan isn't coming on, that's more than likely the issue.  You can test it by starting your bike and seeing if it eventually comes on.  Just let it idle and watch the temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need help troubleshooting a fan that isn't coming on, come back and ask that question.  Someone will help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T22:54:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7032" CreationDate="2016-04-08T23:34:31.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's almost a bit normal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brake pads aren't lined up on the wear grooves of your disc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is very common on dirtbikes is to get a few grooves, not necessarily deep, cut into the discs/rotors.  When you put the wheel back onto the bike the pads on your front caliper were just a little bit off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't any tool or special alignment you can do to remedy the issue.  It's almost a &quot;well, this is the way it is&quot; thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is get your pads retracted back just a little bit so you can move the brake pad up and down just a bit.  You try and feel where the pad best hits the disc and see if you can feel the pad fitting into the grooves.  When you feel it fit in, you know it.  Once your there, pump your front brake lever a couple times to get your cylinder pushing out against the pad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find the 'spot' then you'll have to ride the bike and get the pads worn back into the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't bleeding or anything like that.  You took your wheel off.  When you put it back on the brakes are lame.  If you overthink it your will end up doing a brake job to resolve something you won't resolve by doing all that activity.  Try it the next time you swap a tire or tube.  It usually lines up and everything is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T23:34:31.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5461" CreationDate="2016-04-09T00:21:35.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've never done any replacement of black plastic on my motorcycles.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a BMW mechanic show me a trick on an early 80's BMW he was restoring.  He sprayed all the plastic with WD-40.  Just saturated it.  He then wrapped all of it in plastic or sealed the smaller pieces in sandwich bags.  A week later we powerwashed all of it and let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was three years ago and all of his black plastic looks fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T23:29:55.643" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T23:29:55.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T00:57:03.767" Score="0" ViewCount="2014" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of today's date, which oil filter has the highest debris capacity? I usually get a K&amp;amp;N filter but I was curious if anyone here has statistics pertaining to this. I know single pass through efficiency is usually what consumers go by, but I like the idea of having a higher debris capacity with my thinking being that if that should fill, it would not recycle through the system until the next change. The engine that my specific instance is a K20Z3 from a 2007 Honda Civic Si.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15848" LastActivityDate="2017-08-05T13:39:17.440" Title="Which oil filter has the highest debris capacity?" Tags="|maintenance|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28003" CreationDate="2016-04-09T04:26:40.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air conditioner on this vehicle uses a vacuum powered HVAC controls. A leak anywhere in the vacuum system can cause this symptom. One way to test for leaks is to apply low pressure air (10psi) into the system and listen for leaks. Leaks at the vacuum reservoir are common. So is the line to the air recirculation valve because it is close to the passengers right foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11084" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T14:34:29.907" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:34:29.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28017" CreationDate="2016-04-09T09:42:38.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Information provided courtesy of Purolator Filters via &lt;a href=&quot;https://theshopmag.com/features/oil-filters-exposed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;theSHOP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let’s face it. While performance engines represent the most fun in our businesses, it’s the everyday engines we build that pay the rent for most of us. That’s just a fact of life. We can all put valve guides in small-block Chevy heads pretty much blindfolded, and we all know how easily a Honda Accord crank should turn once all the main bearings are torqued up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what do we do when it’s time to spin an oil filter onto a newly assembled stock engine? In most cases, it’s probably the equivalent of asking our helper to pick up an oil filter and quickly put it on so we can send the finished job out to the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are we really doing justice to the customer and, in fact, to our careful work? After all, does it really matter which filter we screw onto a fresh everyday motor? Well, sure it does. That first filter must protect our fresh engine from whatever chips and machining debris might linger in the recesses of the oil galleries and crankcase. And, probably more importantly, the filter we install is likely to establish the precedent for the brand of filter that the car owner will continue to use. So our choice is more long-lived than we might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all filters the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so we come to the next question: Aren’t all oil filters pretty much the same?  As it turns out, they’re not.  For the straight skinny on oil filters for everyday engines we went to the experts at Purolator, since they’re the ones who invented the first automotive oil filter (in 1923!), and also the ones who invented the spin-on oil filter in 1955, as well as a highly respected supplier of OEM filters. Ramon Nuñez, Director of Filtration for Bosch, joint venture owner of Purolator told us that oil filters are deceptively simple and yet deceptively complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s the deceptively simple thing about oil filters: the two most important aspects of oil filters are: What size particles can they filter out? How much debris can a filter hold before the bypass valve quietly directs unfiltered oil to your new bearings, lifters, and cam lobes? Sure there are other features to consider, like the integrity of the housing and crimping, the design and reliability of the bypass valve, and the durability of the filtering media itself. But if the filter isn’t safely capturing and storing debris, then the other features don’t matter much. Purolator’s Nuñez suggests that we first consider particle size. After all, it’s the big chunks we’re worried about, right? Well that’s true if all you’re worried about is the first few hours of operation. But if you’re interested in the longevity of the engine, then size really does matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the filtering media works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s a surprise: the filtering media does not actually filter. Yup, that’s right. The filtering media does not actually filter. Remember the oil bath air cleaners of the ’40s and ’50s? If you’re old enough to remember them, you may or may not be aware that they worked by forcing incoming air to follow an “S”-shaped route past a trough of engine oil. The concept was, the air could easily follow the turns, while the heavier particles of dirt and debris couldn’t make the turn, and momentum would carry the grit straight into the oil, where it was held hostage until someone dumped the dirty oil and replenished it. Believe it or not, that’s actually how modern oil filters work. The filtering media does not act like a screen, but rather traps contaminants that cannot change direction easily. Of course, explains Purolator’s Nuñez, today’s oil filter media is very sophisticated, and much science has gone into its design and construction. The design of the media determines how small a particle can be held, and how much capacity the filter has for holding debris. By the way, Nuñez also notes that the configuration of the size, shape, and number of pleats in a given oil filter are actually mathematically calculated to allow for the maximum amount of media to be exposed to the oil flow. So back to particle size and filter capacity. Let’s deal with particle size first. Here’s the short answer: if you can see it, it’s too big, it’ll damage the engine, and it needs to be filtered out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, OK, here’s the long answer. The term “efficiency” is used in the filtration world to describe the amount or percentage of contaminants that are caught and held as oil passes through the filter. There are SAE standards for “test debris” and for testing procedures. Purolator Classic oil filters are 97.5 percent efficient, and Purolator PureONE filters are 99.9 percent% efficient - the highest efficiency ratings on the market. Both filters will essentially remove their respective percentages of particles 20 microns or larger in diameter -- including virtually all particles large enough to be visible to the naked eye. Picture this: a human hair can measure as little as 30 microns (one micron is a millionths of a meter) in diameter (don’t forget we’re talking an end view here…). A human bacteria can measure 20 microns. And the soot found floating around in cigarette smoke can measure nearly one micron. So a filter that removes virtually all particles 20 microns or larger is offering phenomenal protection to your engine. Here’s more food for thought. A single chip from your rotary broach or milling machine often runs around 0.007”, which translates into about 175 microns. And a stray piece of casting flash is certainly much larger. You can well imagine, and have probably seen, the devastating effects of having a 0.007” piece of debris trying to squeeze itself into the 0.002-0.003” clearance between a rod or main bearing shell and a crankshaft journal. And who among us can claim with certainty that they’ve never left a single, or modest collection of, machining chips hidden away in an engine block or cylinder head? There are two ways to measure filter efficiency – single-pass and multi-pass. Which test do you think better represents real-world oil filtration – a single-pass test that runs just 45 gallons of oil through a test filter, or a multi-pass test that passes more than 2,500 gallons through the filter? Why it’s the multi-pass test of course. But won’t a filter that’s more efficient get clogged sooner, causing the bypass valve (if the filter has one…) to open and direct unfiltered oil to the crankshaft, bearings, and other critical components? Ah, that brings us to what the filter engineers refer to as capacity. Capacity represents the amount of contaminants a filter can remove and hold before flow is restricted. Capacity is usually measured in grams. Some filter makers don’t advertise capacity if it’s not a favorable number for them. In the case of Purolator PureONE oil filters, they have a capacity of at least 13 grams. In real-world terms that means that a PureONE filter will hold the equivalent of 31 standard-size paper clips before it becomes blocked. And that’s a whole lot of debris. Beyond efficiency and capacity, there are other features you should look for in your choice of an oil filter – things like a steel center tube for reliable support of the media, a one-piece anti-drainback valve (less likely to leak than a multi-piece design), and a flat sealing ring, shown by SAE tests to provide greater sealing surface area, higher blowout resistance, and longer life than O-ring or P-ring designs. Purolator oil filters provide all this and more. Some filter companies use paper or felt end caps versus the steel end caps used by Purolator.  In cold climates where cold start-ups can cause huge momentary spikes in oil pressure, you should look for a filter design that’s been tested for burst strength. Our Purolator expert tells us that Purolator Classic and PureONE oil filters, for example, are tested 25,000 cycles at pressure pulses of 0-100-0 psi to validate filter housings’ mechanical strength. If you ever wondered about how an oil filter does it’s job, now you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T10:43:56.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27897" CreationDate="2016-04-09T09:47:33.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One advantage of OHC is that the valves can work much faster therefore you can get higher RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think harley, that has a redline of 5,000 rpms, vs a ducati V-twin that revs over 10,000 RPMS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are v-twins but the limiting factor is how fast the valves can open and close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I think racing harleys can redline a little higher maybe 7500 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15091" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T09:47:33.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="46155" CreationDate="2016-04-09T09:56:44.010" Score="11" ViewCount="6387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue with a 2010 Opel / Vauxhall Insignia 2.0 CDTI Sports Tourer (aka Buick Regal in the States if I'm not mistaken) and I'm having difficulties pinning it down. It's going to be a lengthy read so I appreciate your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a strange clunky sound coming either from the engine or gearbox whenever I'm decelerating with the clutch engaged (engine breaking) or when I'm stationary with the clutch engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stationary, the sound doesn't always occur, however, if I repeatedly tap the accelerator pedal, it starts to make a rattling noise. This rattling noise only occurs if the clutch is engaged. Also, when engine breaking, if I disengage the clutch, the noise stops. Also, when pulling away in first gear from a stop, engaging the clutch also produces this noise. After the clutch fully engages, the sound seems to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating, the sound either doesn't occur or is overpowered by the sound of the engine. I was never able to hear it when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been having this issue since 2013 and at first it seemed this was only happening when the engine was cold but now it doesn't seem to make a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since been to the dealership twice. The first time, they couldn't hear the sound (or probably just ignored my issue altogether), and the second time I took one of the mechanics with me on a drive to demonstrate my issue and at first they thought it was coming from the dual mass flywheel. They took it into the shop and then they said it was coming from the gearbox. They said they can't be sure what the issue is unless they take the gearbox apart. Since the car is second-hand and I'm not fully aware if the warranty still applied, I didn't go through with it since I didn't want to have to wrestle with them to do it under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also reluctant to take it to the dealership again because, even though they are the least shady mechanics I can find, I once changed my brake pads myself in the driveway and a month later I went to the dealership to replace a torn hose from the intercooler to the intake and they claimed my one month old pads need replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have the time, I'll try and see if I can record the sound and post it here for you guys to hear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also mention that I do not have any difficulty engaging any gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, what are your thoughts on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Here is the sound produced when tapping the accelerator pedal in neutral with the clutch engaged:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/dmeuntqhvj0jl4f/CarNoise.mp3?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engine_Neutral_Noise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this noise is really harsh and loud. The noise being generated while decelerating on the other hand, isn't as loud, it isn't as crunchy and its frequency is constant throughout the engine breaking period. Unfortunately, the mic was not able to pick up the noise while decelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16285" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T21:03:27.453" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T11:39:00.330" Title="Clunking sounds when decelerating or idle with clutch engaged" Tags="|engine|clutch|noise|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28027" CreationDate="2016-04-09T10:18:55.957" Score="6" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this topic is too open ended I'm new to this site. I am studying engines and how they work and I keep wondering, how do cars with no gas still manage to run for a few extra miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need fuel for the combustion process to happen, and have no fuel coming through your fuel injectors how can the cylinder combustion chamber still work? I have heard the fumes left over is the cause of this but this make no sense to a novice learning about engines as the reason I explained above. How is this possible how much fuel is need to keep the vehicle moving? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S again if this is off topic or been done before I am sorry as I am new to this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T13:27:14.587" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T13:49:54.167" Title="How can vehicles run on E?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|fuel-tank|fuel-injection|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28026" CreationDate="2016-04-09T10:34:55.527" Score="2" ViewCount="2948" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-9dFdGq-vI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-9dFdGq-vI&lt;/a&gt; I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as I torque everything down correctly and put it back together correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T13:23:46.680" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T13:35:57.830" Title="Replace lifter without removing heads or engine in 2000 Mustang?" Tags="|engine|ford|mustang|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T11:24:50.810" Score="5" ViewCount="3125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my English,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with my power steering rack that had some fluid leaks and some noise when the fluid level was down. I never used the car without fluid.&#xA;Except the steering noise and the oil leak, the steering wheel was easy to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the car to the mechanic yesterday and he changed the &lt;strong&gt;steering rack&lt;/strong&gt;, but now the steering wheel is very hard to move mostly when the car is stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic told me that maybe the new rack needs 2 - 3 days and it will be better. If it doesn't improve then it will be necessary to change the &lt;strong&gt;Power Steering Pump&lt;/strong&gt; but he doesn't look so sure that it will fix the problem and I was thinking that with the old rack the power steering pump was OK. This is my first car and I am already hating it because I spent a lot of money repairing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for burning this car, does somebody have an idea or suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16287" LastEditorUserId="13824" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T21:03:26.967" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T08:01:25.143" Title="VW Golf MK4 1.4 16v 1998 - Steering wheel hard to turn after Power Steering Rack change" Tags="|vw|power-steering|golf|steering-wheel|pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28024" CreationDate="2016-04-09T13:23:31.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a generic sense, yes, you can remove the lifters without removing the heads or engine from the vehicle. I'm assuming your engine is the 3.8L V6. There were two other engines available, the 4.6L V8 and 5.4L V8. Both of these are overhead cam engines which used rocker on lifter arrangements. I'll assume you don't have these because most owners of these engines because these would be in the GT (4.6L 3 valve per cylinder head) and Cobra SVT (5.4L 4 valve per cylinder head) would speak up about their particular vehicle type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 3.8L, you'd need to pull the intake manifold from the engine, then remove the rockers and the lifters should be right there for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T13:35:57.830" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T13:35:57.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28023" CreationDate="2016-04-09T13:49:47.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas gauge is just an indicator and each vehicle is going to be different. I know the older Datsun Z cars had &lt;em&gt;two gas gauges&lt;/em&gt;, one was the main one which showed the volume of gas down to 1/4 tank, while the secondary one showed from 1/4 down to empty. The secondary gas gauge was very accurate to give the driver a true indication of how much fuel was in the tank. With today's gas gauges, like I said, it's just an indicator. &lt;strong&gt;You as the driver need to be aware of how much fuel is left in the vehicle&lt;/strong&gt; and understand when you need to put more fuel in. &lt;strong&gt;This is a practical knowledge which comes from experience.&lt;/strong&gt; Just because the fuel gauge is pointed at &quot;E&quot; does not mean the fuel tank is empty, just that the quantity is getting very low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even vehicle with a &quot;Distance to Empty&quot; reading are not that accurate. You have to know, when you are below a certain threshold, there isn't much fuel left and you need to start looking for a filling station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vehicle &lt;em&gt;cannot run&lt;/em&gt; without fuel. When someone says &quot;it's running on fumes&quot;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;this is just a saying&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. They are just stating there is very little fuel left in the tank. A vehicle cannot run on fumes. If there isn't any liquid gas in the tank (compressed natural gas - CNG - excluded), the fuel pump cannot create fuel pressure which is needed to run the engine. Fuel injected vehicles are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; dependent upon the fuel pressure being correct in order to inject the correct amount of fuel per injection cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T13:49:47.573" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2016-04-09T14:19:51.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, unless the engine is completely flushed, there will be some residual dirty oil still inside. Then there are the normal by-products of an internal combustion engine: soot, metal wear particles, old oil residue breaking down, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil filter elements are designed to collect as much of this detritus as possible without hindering free oil circulation through the engine (dirt = bad, low oil flow = worse bad). Perform regular oil &amp;amp; filter changes as per mfr mileage recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coworker who was a car fanatic changed his oil &amp;amp; filter every 3,000 miles. BUT he changed his oil filter EVERY MONTH. His rationale was that he was throwing away the dirt the filter collected on a regular basis. He had 375,000 on his Eddie Bauer edition truck, still going strong. Tough to argue that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side point: on our rotary screw air compressor (not internal combustion, I get that) the recommendation was to replace the oil filter monthly for regular PM and submit oil samples for analysis. SO regularly 'taking out the trash' seems like a reasonable thing to do. Pretty cheap, too, more hassle than cost for the backyard mechanic. Worth trying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16288" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T15:46:48.750" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T15:46:48.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5485" CreationDate="2016-04-09T15:20:02.850" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This works for me great. Easy to follow.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part One&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I49uU65HMmM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I49uU65HMmM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part Two&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzHiuWpYb0M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzHiuWpYb0M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16289" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T15:20:02.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T15:39:45.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's peugeot 207 cc is showing &quot;depollution system faulty&quot; and the engine management light comes on but this only when the roof down,  also seems to be missing on a cylinder ????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also borrowed a code reader from a work mate after the first time this happened (by this time the engine management light had gone off) and it gave a P1337 as the fault code when the roof is down.  There is a noticeable loss of power which makes me think there is a misfire &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 2009 16 16v 120bhp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16290" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T18:23:46.143" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T18:23:46.143" Title="peugeot 207 cc depollution system faulty when roof down" Tags="|cel|peugeot|misfire|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25325" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:16:09.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Attributes of Exhaust (Jake brake) and Compression Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression (Jake) Brake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes slow a vehicle by releasing pressure&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes are operated at the valve train.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes open the exhaust valve at the top of the compression stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes use the compression of the compression stroke to provide gas compression resistance to slow the rear wheels of a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes are more efficient than exhaust brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes have mechanisms to disable the braking upon use of the clutch or throttle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes release exhaust pressure after TDC to prevent compressed gas expansion from acting upon the piston on the downstroke&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression Brake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust brakes increase pressure to slow a vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust brakes attach to the exhaust system at the manifold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust brakes block the exhaust gasses from escaping the exhaust manifold to slow a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust brakes have mechanisms to disable them upon use of the clutch or throttle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes are considered to be up to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.differencebetween.net/technology/difference-between-jake-brake-and-exhaust-brake/&quot;&gt;80% more effective&lt;/a&gt; than exhaust brakes in creating resistance to slow a vehicle.  In many communities in the US &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_release_engine_brake#Legislation&quot;&gt;Jake brakes are illegal&lt;/a&gt; due to the high sound levels that are associated with their use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reliability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are not reliable citations regarding the reliability of the two systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effectiveness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jake brakes are considered considerably more effective than exhaust brakes.  Exhaust brakes have come into popularity as a fall back mechanism as the communities banned jake brakes due high levels of sound associated with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T17:16:09.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27917" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:44:57.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your automatic transmission is your weakest link&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wear will primarily be in your automatic transmission.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting from a stop your first gear is now considerably taller.  When you first start to roll it takes the rear wheels longer to get the inner hub to the RPM's that full 1st gear engagement occurs because of the larger diameter of the rear wheels.  This additional time to fully engage is like fanning a clutch on a manual transmission for a longer period of time.  Due to the longer engagement and the transmission 'slipping' for a longer period of time the components associated with that act wear at an accelerated rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can compensate for this situation a bit with a manual be allowing the clutch to fully engage a bit earlier but it's still not good for a manual clutch to have to endure the increased slipping and will, as well, experience accelerated wear due to the larger diameter tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, the additional wear is on your automatic transmission.  Re-gearing your rear end to match so the automatic transmission can fully engage earlier is the proactive solution to prevent the destruction of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T17:44:57.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27341" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:51:51.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMO this classic low coolant level&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your coolant looks fine in your overflow tank it doesn't mean your cooling system is at appropriate levels or that there is not air in your cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a perfect example of a similar situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27991/strange-overheating-behaviour&quot;&gt;Strange overheating behaviour&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your car is cool, remove the radiator cap and check your fluid level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fluid level is ok, start the car with the cap off.  Have a friend rev your engine a bit and see if the fluid level drops and air bleeds out of the system.  Fill the radiator accordingly.  Wash, rinse and repeat this procedure until you can't add more fluid to the radiator and replace the cap.  Once complete make sure your overflow tank is filled appropriately to the marks indicated on the overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T17:51:51.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24813" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:57:37.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vent Doors in your HVAC system are not working properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have various doors in your system to direct air to appropriate places as you change the settings on your dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want air to come out at the floor and you change the setting, a door closes off or opens up appropriately in your system to direct the air to the correct location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internal door to your defrost is not working properly.  In your car there is a manual system that opens and closes the doors.  You will need to find the door that is not working properly and troubleshoot the little arms and what not the operate it from dial on your dash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases, and probably yours too, you will need to disassemble part of your dash to gain access to the mechanisms to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T17:57:37.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25776" CreationDate="2016-04-09T18:17:09.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starter Solenoid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can turn the starter over when your skip the solenoid then I the logical next step would be to replace your solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a very simple procedure and the solenoid is a relatively inexpensive component&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you swap out your solenoid and see if that resolves your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:17:09.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25820" CreationDate="2016-04-09T18:47:24.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The backup lights stay on and I have to remove the fuse to turn them&#xA;  off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the headlamps stay on as well, the daytime running lamp circuit is back feeding into the backup lamp circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since nothing about the headlamps is mentioned, that can be ruled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple way to test would be to unplug the range switch with the key off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the lights go out?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the connector and repair as necessary or replace the range switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the lights stay on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goto step 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The anti-theft module and auto lamp sensor splice into the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplug both the anti-theft module and the auto lamp sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the lights go out?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the connector and repair as necessary or replace the module/sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the lights stay on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the harness between the range switch and the bulbs for short to power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:47:24.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2016-04-09T18:49:21.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You change the whole wiper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody makes just the rubber and sells it.  They fit it to various wiper frame components that fit different models and sell the to the owners of the vehicle the wiper frame was designed to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the package states it's for a particular vehicle, it's for that vehicle.  I haven't known Bosche to sell a wiper for a VW Rabbit when it's really for a Chevy Pickup Truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not want to buy an OEM wiper you can goto an auto parts store and buy a aftermarket one.  They will have all kinds of them for you to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking about the variance in windshield wiper design from 2002 to the current date for a particular model of vehicle would require hours of research.  If you see a wiper and want to know if it fits your car you are doing your research in reverse.  You could lookup thousands of wipers and never find one that fits your car.  The appropriate way is to enter your car make/model/year regarding a manufacturer and see if they make one for your car.  You will reduce your workload a thousand fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T18:49:21.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27983" CreationDate="2016-04-09T19:02:53.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a wheel lock removing set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PtSh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PtSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe most automotive stores will sell them. They can also easily be  found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can drill the nut and stud. Which takes a long time. It would be faster &amp;amp; cheaper to pay a mechanic for a half hour labor to remove your wheel locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T19:02:53.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25277" CreationDate="2016-04-09T19:15:39.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been a while since I've seen one of these engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC There's a water pipe that runs through the engine V and connects to the heater hose at the rear of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pipe is rotted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hose clamp failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hose failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A freeze plug failed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T19:15:39.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T19:46:37.133" Score="10" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Nissan 350Z and there is a trim bar inside of my car that feels electrified.  I even touched my tongue to it (please, I know) and I can feel electricity.  It's similar to if you have ever taken a 9volt battery and touched it to your tongue (older brothers).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some parameters.  If the ignition is off and the doors are open with I can feel it.  If the ignition is off and the doors are closed, I don't feel it.  If the ignition is on I feel it with doors open or closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trim piece is fake chromed.  I thought plastic underneath the fake chrome look but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've asked just stares at me and shakes their head.  They usually follow it up with something like, 'that's weird'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my battery ground checked and made sure there's no buildup on the batter terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tests I can do or have done with a multimeter to figure it out would be awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the trim.  It isn't my pic but this is it.  Got it off the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNb1k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNb1k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T01:47:30.417" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T01:47:30.417" Title="Why is one of my interior components electrified?" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|nissan|350z|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20914" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:17:18.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this, key on engine off unplug the alternator connector. If the battery light goes off that tells you if the battery light circuit is OK and that the problem exists with the alternator or the circuit on the S terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:17:18.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14807" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:42:47.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, run the engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you do any work involved with draining the coolant you will either have an exact process to remove air from the cooling system or you will simply run the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't the gasses (air) will expand at a greater rate than liquid when the engine get's hot.  This pressure of expanding gasses can blow out hoses or weak radiators.  Running the engine helps to get any air bubbles out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to run the engine with the radiator cap off whenever I add coolant to the radiator or only when I drain/flush the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You do it whenever you drain coolant out of the system unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.  On your model, you run the engine to get out the air bubbles from all of the various water galleys in your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, can I take off the cap to the coolant overflow container and fill that without needing to run the engine with the cap off the radiator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.  You don't need to remove the radiator cap to fill the overflow.  Just fill it to the appropriate marks on the side of the overflow container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:42:47.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12493" CreationDate="2016-04-09T20:54:03.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OP Resolved the Issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;flow direction was not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP reconnected hoses and stated the issue is now closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T20:54:03.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T22:00:06.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started hearing really loud noises coming from my engine. When I turn the engine on the noise is much louder then normal. When I open the hood to look at the engine I can see it is shaking slightly.  I have no engine lights coming up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please advise me regarding what the problem could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16295" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T22:28:27.343" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T16:50:49.807" Title="Audi A1 makes a loud engine sound" Tags="|engine|noise|audi|a1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28053" CreationDate="2016-04-09T22:19:08.880" Score="10" ViewCount="41445" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Gen 1 Small Block Chev gradually grew to 400cid. To achieve this massive volume the bores were siamesed and the conrods were shortened.The engine when produced in passenger car form had the same HP rating as the popular 350 but it made more torque making it better for the      heavy cars  it was used in .I would like answers to clarify or dispell all the rumours .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T22:32:12.917" LastActivityDate="2019-02-17T22:25:11.833" Title="Is the unreliability of the 400 Small Block Chev an Urban Myth?" Tags="|engine|sbc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38568" CreationDate="2016-04-09T22:23:25.340" Score="10" ViewCount="2404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mode 06 in OBD2 is good to get an insight of what faults the car might encounter in the future.&#xA;But I am unable to find out what command should I send to get Mode 06 data. It has TID$01 CID$01, so how do I send the command? 060101 or 0601?&#xA;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how do I decode the information? It is not fixed for all manufacturers, then how does Torque Pro app say MID$01 TID$01 is O2 Bank1 Sensor1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2010 Hyundai i10 Era (Petrol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sending 0600 command, I received: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8 06 46 00 80 00 00 01&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sending 0601 command, I received: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8 10 37 46 01 01 0A 0E 66 &#xA;7E8 21 0E 66 0E 66 01 02 0A &#xA;7E8 22 0E 66 0E 66 0E 66 01 &#xA;7E8 23 07 0A 00 00 00 00 0C &#xA;7E8 24 D8 01 08 0A 1D 70 13 &#xA;7E8 25 18 22 90 01 09 10 00 &#xA;7E8 26 78 00 78 05 F0 01 0A &#xA;7E8 27 10 00 00 00 00 00 00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sending 0605 command, I received: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;7E8 10 0B 46 00 80 00 00 01 &#xA;7E8 21 00 80 00 00 01 00 00 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any other 06xx command (including 060101, i.e. Mode 06 TID 01 CID 01), I get &quot;NO DATA&quot;.&#xA;Please help me decode the above data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T19:09:53.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T09:54:45.270" Title="How do I get to see my Mode 06 in OBDii" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28088" CreationDate="2016-04-09T23:35:41.063" Score="5" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;A part of the tire broke off but I'm not sure if it's significant. How can I tell if the tire is losing air? Tire pressure seems to be OK for now. It's a Volkswagen Jetta 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpCAv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpCAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14939" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T16:01:16.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T16:01:16.280" Title="Should I get the tire checked?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28050" CreationDate="2016-04-09T23:42:13.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general thought with the 400ci SBC is, when they are overbored by more than .030&quot;, you start running into overheating issues due to the Siamesed bores. This is not true. The overheating issue usually lies in the coolant passages (sometimes considered steam holes) which allow flow from the block to the head. These are very small holes which tend to get plugged up. Cleaning these holes out usually helps with overall coolant flow and help prevents overheating issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue which may come into play with boring these blocks past .040&quot; is wall thickness. Many of these blocks can accept an overbore of .060&quot;, but must be completely sonic checked before hand. There are reports of boring right through into water jackets with thin walls. A good wall thickness is said to be in the .150&quot;+ range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third issue which needs to be addressed with these engines is to ensure they are honed with a torque plate installed and properly torqued (with all fasteners). When this is done incorrectly or not done at all, these blocks are known to have oil control issues. By placing the torque plates prior to honing (after being bored over), you are ensuring the cylinders are completely round. This &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; applies to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; block which you are having bored over. If a machine shop tells you not to worry about it or it doesn't really matter, take your business elsewhere, because this shop is lazy or doesn't know what they are talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the 400 SBC is a really good block. They do come with a bit shorter connecting rods (5.565&quot; compared to 5.700&quot; for the 350) than do most of the other SBC engines out there. I'm not too sure why GM built them this way, but it's okay. You can use the 5.7&quot; rods (way more plentiful and cheap), but you have to ensure the piston pin boss is offset or you'll run the piston through the head (think irresistible force meets immovable object). Other than that, live long and prosper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T16:55:47.047" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T16:55:47.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28055" CreationDate="2016-04-10T01:12:56.103" Score="5" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2010 Nissan Altima and I'm trying to figure out if the TPMS gasket is part of the tire itself or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Story: got front tires replaced at Midas. The one that needed replacing was leaking and unrepairable, according to them. Drove away, TPMS sensor was still on. Thought it needed time to reset (I'm a moron). Saw the tire was low, refilled it, few days later was low again. Refilled it, took it back to the shop, they showed me the TPMS gasket was leaking (bubbling soap solution). They replaced the TPMS for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the TPMS is part of the tire, I'm concerned they didn't replace the tire and instead lied to me about the tire being unfixable, got me to pay for new ones, fixed the old one and never put new ones on. The likelihood of a new tire having a bad TPMS gasket is lower than the odds of someone trying to pull a fast one on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16296" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:05:47.430" Title="TPMS sensor on tires for 2010 Nissan Altima" Tags="|tires|nissan|altima|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28054" CreationDate="2016-04-10T03:05:47.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TPMS sensor in each wheel does not come with new tires, it a separate part. There are TPMS reseal kits that are available separately, see picture below. The TPMS sensor is to be resealed each time a new tire is installed. This is industry best practice. It is not always done. It appears this was not done when your tires were installed or the new seals leaked. Either way it was repaired for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPMS rebuild kits are equivalent to the valve stem in pre-TPMS tires. These stems are almost always replaced when new tires are installed. This has been standard practice for decades. The industry has not fully adjusted to the kits yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MANr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MANr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TPMS rebuild kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible for a tire to have damage that is unrepairable. There are a set of industry standards for this. &#xA;Also if only two new tires were purchased they should be installed on the rear not the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:05:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T03:08:25.597" Score="4" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I just bought it two weeks ago so I don't know much about it. They guy I got it off of said it has brand new brakes, rotors, and calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I apply the brakes it makes a squeaky noise and sounds like it is only coming from the front drivers side. On that same side when I drive slowly, it makes a clicking/clunking noise. Does anyone know what this could be considering it has brand new brakes, rotors, and calipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I apply the brakes it doesn't feel like it is stopping as fast as it should, but like I said I just got it two weeks ago so I'm not really familiar how the Grand Cherokee works. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16297" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T03:21:29.603" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T05:31:30.043" Title="My Jeep is making a squeaky noise when I apply the brakes and when I drive slowly it makes a clunking noise" Tags="|brakes|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2016-04-10T03:23:49.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda Coil Over Plug setups have three wires. As mentioned they have an internal Ignition Control Module. Pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 are power and ground while pin 3 is the control signal from the Electronic Control Module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test coil resistance with a multimeter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26856/how-to-test-an-ignition-coil-with-a-multimeter&quot;&gt;How to Test an Ignition Coil with a Multimeter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also check the primary coil with a digital storage oscilloscope and a low amp inductance probe by observing the primary coil waveform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is known good ignition coil waveform from an 09 Accord 2.4 that uses the same style ignition coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKE4g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKE4g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally when observing waveforms problems on the primary coil will affect the secondary coil and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As paulster2 mentioned you could also check ignition coil performance with a misfire code by swapping the suspect ignition coil, resetting codes and waiting for another code to show up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or by again swapping the suspect ignition coil and observing misfire counters with a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:23:49.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T04:54:08.703" Score="6" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '99 Chevy Blazer. It never wants to get moving right away. It takes 30 seconds to a minute before I can get fully going. It also shakes when I am at a red light or stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed today that the transmission fluid smelled bad. I am going to get it flushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel injector cleaner?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque converter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the above?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16298" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T23:49:20.613" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T04:53:30.177" Title="Is my 1999 blazer having transmission problems?" Tags="|transmission|sparkplugs|fuel-injection|torque-converter|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28063" CreationDate="2016-04-10T07:19:59.880" Score="4" ViewCount="1912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some questions regarding the alternator testing procedure outlined in the 98 US work shop manual ( this is related to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20914/battery-light-wont-go-off-since-changing-battery&quot;&gt;battery warning light question&lt;/a&gt; ), my car has the FS engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paV10.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paV10.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7O6T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7O6T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it says to test voltage at terminals S and L, is it correct to assume it means to disconnect &quot;Connector 2&quot; and  then test between those pins on the alternator side and the negative battery terminal?  But if they're disconnected there won't be any current flow because voltage is tested in parallel to the circuit, so that doesn't seem like it'll work.  So maybe I need to probe where the wires insert at the back of the connector and the negative battery terminal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that the 97 European WSM lists different voltages on these pins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vo2I8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vo2I8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that my car is a 98 GF, which is the European / International model, so I'm not sure which voltages to go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 3, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The European GF models ( or at least mine ) use a Mitsubishi alternator FP34 A2TB0191 and voltage regulation is done by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/32340/7132&quot;&gt;ECU via the two pin DP connector&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:30:42.980" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:30:42.980" Title="The Testing Procedure for the Mazda 626 Alternator in the WSM is Unclear" Tags="|alternator|testing|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:33:18.683" Score="18" ViewCount="18260" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1494&quot;&gt;Will higher octane fuel improve gas mileage?&lt;/a&gt; higher octane fuel does NOT notably improve fuel efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will higher octane fuel, increase power while towing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked online and found two different answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will using a higher octane fuel than required improve fuel economy or performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends. For most vehicles, higher octane fuel &lt;strong&gt;may improve performance&lt;/strong&gt; and gas mileage and reduce carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions by a few percent during severe duty operation, such as &lt;strong&gt;towing a trailer&lt;/strong&gt; or carrying heavy loads, especially in hot weather. However, under normal driving conditions, you may get little to no benefit.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/octane.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid Premium Fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One secret to lowering your overall fuel cost is to just use regular gas, unless your owner’s manual specifies a higher octane gas. Most RV's don't benefit from burning high octane fuel, and therefore you will pay at least $20 more per tank for &lt;strong&gt;no additional performance&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icondirect.com/pages/RV-Fuel-Savings-Guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top answer by Brian Knoblauch in the gas mileage question says, it might have less power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;higher octane fuels actually contain slightly &lt;strong&gt;less energy&lt;/strong&gt; (they just offer a more controlled burn that higher compression engines can take advantage of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=7360-en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014 Honda Pilot&lt;/a&gt; to tow a 4,000 pound trailer over the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocky_Mountains&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rocky Mountains&lt;/a&gt;, a couple of percentage points in power increase (or decrease) could make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will higher octane fuel impact the available power in common v-6 regular gas burning engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-09-11T17:20:31.620" Title="Will higher octane fuel improve towing power?" Tags="|engine-theory|fuel-consumption|power|towing|rv|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11968" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:34:31.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use aluminum foil and Turtle Wax chrome polish on my Harley. The aluminum foil is softer than the steel wool and will not scratch the chrome and at the same time adds a aluminum coating to the rust spots making it have a sealed finish. I also apply the Turtle Wax chrome polish to the aluminum foil so it polishes as it cleans the rust off. Make sure you let the polish dry and wipe to a new looking finish. I live in Florida and the moisture in the air of the garage has cause all my chrome to rust and this method has restored it to like new condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use my method make sure you crumple up the aluminum foil giving it a scratchy effect. I used this method on all chrome now that I've found something that works great&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16301" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T10:34:31.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28059" CreationDate="2016-04-10T12:07:44.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd backprobe the S and L terminals with the connector plugged in. So attach one end to a ground point and the other to the S or L terminal. Basically the S terminal is the Field terminal. The S wire gets power from the eng inj fuse and should have 14+V while the engine is running. The alternator grounds the L terminal when voltage is below threshold and turns on the battery light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the Euro voltage chart I'm unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T12:07:44.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T12:14:12.337" Score="5" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Civic LX 1.7 Engine. It won't turn over, the battery is new and all indicator lights work. It starts with Bum start but not on its own.Any sugestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks; Carl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16231" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T16:55:08.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T16:55:08.920" Title="Starting Problem" Tags="|honda|civic|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28064" CreationDate="2016-04-10T12:59:18.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvS6d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvS6d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the car is in park or neutral with the parking brake on and apply power to the S terminal on the starter. This will tell you if it's the starter or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine turns over the fault is either in the transmission range switch/clutch safety switch, the starter relay, fuse or ignition switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T12:59:18.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:08:50.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2005 subaru 2.5rs with 330k on it. I have abused the car since i bought it. I maintained it myself throughout its life, the only engine issues I've had are the following: oil pressure switch was replaced twice and a spark plug was shot out of the cylinder head. The spark plug issue was due to the spark plug wire at the head not being properly sealed on the head. This caused water to accumulate and cause galvanic corrosion and eventual failure between the steel helicoil and the aluminum head. The engine is incredibly durable, I drive it hard daily through back country mountainous  dirt roads and it has been a truly incredible engine. Other than that, the timing belt is an annoyance but its worth the extra expense. At 330k the engine knocks when cold due to piston slap, it burns a little oil and the valves are noisy. It sounds tired but still runs great and puts down power when I need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chassis is also very tough. The roads I drive on are not easy on a car. It has required significant maintenance on the chassis components at around 250k including: struts, strut mounts, outer toe rods, lower ball joints. On normal roads I doubt any of those components would have required any maintenance at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands down the toughest car I have ever owed and i've driven many cars into the ground. I have more fun driving my subaru in the winter than my 300hp summer car. The fun to cost ratio is very high in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16304" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T17:01:50.433" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T17:01:50.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:49:19.060" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a great question. I believe the true answer here is &quot;it depends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so many other things you can do with your vehicle, if your vehicle cannot use the higher octane fuel, it won't benefit from it. Something to remember about octane ratings is, the higher number does not mean it is more energy dense. The higher number indicates the fuel is actually &lt;em&gt;harder to burn&lt;/em&gt;. This seems counter intuitive, but it makes sense if you think about it. Higher octane fuel is used to counteract pre-ignition  or knocking. This condition occurs when the fuel spontaneously ignites due to any of several reasons before the spark occurs. This gives the noise which we commonly call &quot;pinging&quot; or &quot;knocking&quot; and can cause damage to an engine if it happens too often and too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the advent of electronic fuel injection, pre-ignition happens a lot less often. Knock sensors which detect the knock, will pull timing from the ignition. When this happens, the power output is brought down as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your engine experiences pre-ignition while towing up over the Rockies, it will definitely have more power from higher octane fuel than if the ignition is pulling timing. While the higher octane fuel is not giving it more power directly. If the engine needs it, the higher octane fuel will provide the means for which the engine can maintain the power it should normally have. Pre-ignition can occur due to greater stress on the engine, towing is a prime example of greater stress, especially when doing so up an incline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T16:10:39.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T16:10:39.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21208" CreationDate="2016-04-10T14:05:04.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother said that it ended up being the timing belt; he assumes it was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/problem-diagnosis/synchronous-drive-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;broken teeth&lt;/a&gt;.  He didn't really care why because he only needed it fixed enough to pass a &quot;cash for clunkers&quot; program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4719" LastEditorUserId="4719" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T20:08:48.000" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T20:08:48.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28076" CreationDate="2016-04-10T14:16:17.617" Score="11" ViewCount="1876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not having a good weekend - car wouldn't start, even when jump started using a conveniently placed 12v generator battery (almost &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12939/the-car-makes-clicking-noise-when-i-try-to-turn-on-the-engine-what-could-be-the&quot;&gt;identical to this question&lt;/a&gt;, I suspect dodgy cabling to the starter). The battery was fine at first, but various failed attempts to start the car and diagnose the problem and various other things have run it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to recharge the battery to properly test my theory that it's a problem with the wiring. I don't have access to a car battery charger and won't have access for several days, at least. As mentioned jumpstart didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do have is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BB5VQCE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;li-po battery pack&lt;/a&gt; designed for laptops, appliances etc that outputs at 12v, 16v and 18v (3.5 amps), which I can connect to crocodile clips and to the accessory socket. I double-checked with a multi-meter that the output was right and that the polarity was as expected before connecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't go as expected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connecting to the battery while connected to the car, set to 12v, connecting positive to positive then negative to ground, the battery pack instantly switched off. This is the same behaviour as if it detects a short circuit. (same thing happened at 16V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying again connecting straight to the terminals of the battery while disconnected from the car, the same thing happened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying again via the accessory socket (with the battery reconnected to the car), the battery didn't react but instead I think the fuse blew out inside the plug I was using to connect to the accessory socket. Testing the accessory socket cable and plug I used with a multimeter, it now seems to be dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing the above with a low-power solar battery maintainer (2.4 watt), the accessory socket works fine (charges very very very slowly but observably while the panel is plugged in) and has no problems connected direct to the battery using the same crocodile clips that I used with the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be going on here? Why might what seems like perfectly normal charging circuits for a 2.4 watt solar panel be treated like a short circuit that blows an accessory plug's fuse and trips a battery pack's electronic protection? What's special about a car battery and 12v / 3.5a from a lithium polymer battery that would make it behave this way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can think is that a lead-acid battery probably draws current differently to an electronic appliance, but I can't think why it would result in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T16:08:36.813" Title="Why do attempts to charge a flat car battery with an electronic battery pack give results as if there's a short circuit?" Tags="|battery|electrical|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28146" CreationDate="2016-04-10T14:47:12.330" Score="9" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new BMW 1 Series 116D (2016) on a 4 year PCP deal. A week in, I've managed to scratch the bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7SjX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7SjX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW 1 Series 116 D (2016) bumper scratch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's a minor dink, I don't want there to be any risk of it devaluing the car for when I eventually trade it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend repairing this myself or should I go back to the BMW dealership? What would be the price difference in the two and how would I go about doing a DIY job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10408" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T15:38:10.583" Title="BMW 1 Series (2016) Bumper Repair" Tags="|bmw|repair|paint-scratches|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28073" CreationDate="2016-04-10T16:42:08.537" Score="4" ViewCount="2842" Body="&lt;p&gt;tried searching all over the Web to solve this problem without luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2012 Ninja 250 keeps making a clicking noise coming from under the seat when I press the starter switch.  I have a brand new battery, new spark plugs, fresh gas, and clean oil in the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the seat off and the noise is coming from a round part that is mounted under the gas tank almost.(I have no clue what this part is... Maybe the starter solenoid????)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r2nqF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of clicking part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have little experience working on bikes, but would love to fix this myself if possible. Any idea if replacing this part will fix the issue? What could be some other causes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="16308" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T16:47:26.730" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T16:52:22.730" Title="2012 Ninja 250 Clicks When Trying To Start" Tags="|motorcycle|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28072" CreationDate="2016-04-10T16:52:22.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the main starter relay. It can very well be the issue to your problem. A relay provides a way to get a higher amperage circuit through to things like the starter solenoid without having all that amperage go through the starter switch itself. I would bet replacing this part would fix your issue. You can try giving it a good rap with the butt of a screwdriver on the silver portion. This may temporarily fix it and allow you to get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T16:52:22.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28069" CreationDate="2016-04-10T17:32:03.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the car is charging the 12V battery with over 14V to get it up to something over 13V, so a charger with 12V will do no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should work while the battery is lower, but it won't get you anywhere where you can use the battery to start a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next problem might be the way the charger detects a short circuit, probably by measuring the flow. The battery is probably very large compared to what is charged usually, so there will be a huge flow and the charger will shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to put in resistors, but they need to be large enough to reduce the flow and strong enough to hold it, so I wouldn't play around if you can't check the numbers. Or try, but keep a fire extinguisher close! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would recommend getting someone over with a car and jump start the battery. Use the recommended way to reduce risk for the other car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16309" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T17:32:03.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-10T18:00:54.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine control systems in typical cars do not generally change the spark advance to add more than expected, the engine is designed to run at a particular efficiency for a given octane, so changing it from whats specified by the manufacturer isn't a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is sub optimal conditions and the engine management detects a problem, fuel mix or knock detection etc, it'll retard the timing and/or switch to a second fuel and timing map that is designed for safety while the problem exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if there is a problem and its being caused by pre-ignition ( before the spark, after the down cycle) a higher octane which is slower to burn might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its detonation, a few things can happen, the piston can pop out the side of the engine, break seals,  etc, different engines handle detonation in different ways, and some detonation is more severe than others. There are engines that cannot take any detonation, and there are some that can for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detonation is bad, if its happening then something more severe is happening and a slightly higher octane probably isn't going to do much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pre-ignition can be cured with a higher octane, and it'd be ok if it was only caused by severe load outside of the normally expected running of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without reprogramming the ECU for a different air/ful mix and spark advance you won't get benefits from a higher octane than spec'd unless you're in a sub optimal burn cycle, which either means excessive load or a problem, and you're unlikely to see much there, slightly smoother running perhaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The injectors are programmed to spit out a fixed amount of fuel when you're in open loop which is where you'll likely spend most of the time running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if per cycle the same amount of fuel is being injected into the cylinders, the amount of fuel being used would remain the same, regardless of the type of fuel. This table is fixed in the ECU and usually the only feedback there is the knock detection, have to generalise here because there are some engines that don't follow that convention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're not putting more or less fuel into the cylinder because its a different octane, the fuel pressure is the same, the time the injectors are open, is the same. The ECU in open loop is using the same timing/mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cars do have wide band and can run closed loop upto WOT, but they're less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16310" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T18:00:54.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28069" CreationDate="2016-04-10T18:26:40.440" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This battery pack is rated for 4A at 12V. But a really empty car battery can easily draw much more that 5A when connected to 12V, which is definitely too much for your battery pack. The LiPo battery itself can deliver lots of, but not unlimited current. At high currents, it can get really hot and even start a fire. The battery pack contains a protection circuit, which trips if the current exceeds a threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The mains power cable of your house can deliver some 100A, but the cabeling in your house can not handle this - To prevent fires you have circuit breakers tripping at too high currents. The breaker doesn't care whether there's a short circuit or just too many devices connected!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple solar panel doesn't have this problem. You can easily short-circuit it, and it will just deliver its maximum current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little confusing that the fuse of your accessory socket blows up. The original use of the socket is a cigarette lighter, and this is typically fused with 10, 15 or sometimes 20A. Either your LiPo pack is capable of delivering extreme currents for a while, or these sockets are not designed for cigarette lighters any more and are fused for lower current.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And again, your solar panel does not deliver more that 0.2A at 12V (0.2A*12V=2.4W), and the fuse doesn't blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T18:26:40.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T19:53:01.997" Score="8" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;So...I was taking a Facebook quiz sponsored by &quot;How Stuff Works&quot; about engine technology. One question asked, during what stroke did the spark plug fire. Knowing that the spark fires a few degrees before top dead center, I answered the compression stroke. Well, the quiz considered that wrong and said the correct answer was the combustion stroke (which, frankly, I've always seen and heard referred to as the power stroke). If you consider the four strokes as occurring between top dead center and bottom dead center (or vice versa), then the answer the quiz considered as correct was actually incorrect.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;But this got me thinking: do the strokes, in fact, overlap? For instance, when the piston comes up for the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is actually held open for a few degrees after top dead center, since the exhaust gasses have enough momentum to &quot;pull&quot; more exhaust out of the combustion chamber even after the intake valve has opened. And at the end of the intake stroke the intake valve is usually held open a few degrees after bottom dead center, because the momentum of the incoming air or air-fuel mixture will continue drawing in more air. And if we consider the power stroke as occurring when the spark plug fires or gasoline is injected into the combustion chamber, then the power stroke overlaps with the compression stroke.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So...between dead centers or overlap?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt;My vote goes for between dead centers; otherwise, it's just too dang ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T23:51:06.407" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T15:00:07.237" Title="How clearly dilineated are the four strokes of a four-stroke engine?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T21:29:14.590" Score="6" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any particular reason (relating to the sprung mass) for having this kind of setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am yet to see a wishbone suspension with the shocks on the UCA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16313" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T09:02:36.933" Title="Why are shock absorbers in wishbone suspension systems mounted on the lower control arm?" Tags="|suspension|shock-absorber|springs|handling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28086" CreationDate="2016-04-10T22:57:52.077" Score="5" ViewCount="5670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS, 2.7 L V6, 2WD, 5-speed manual, 113,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the Canister Purge Valve, because the solenoid was burned up and check engine light was on for that code. I noticed when I was replacing it that it must have been replaced once before because it was not the OEM part (my new one &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the OEM part.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purge valve has not worked for probably 20,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;: Since installation, while the engine is running, I hear the purge valve start opening in rapid succession (5 times a second) for about 2 minutes, then a 30 second break, and repeating this all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how the purge system determines when to open, how often to open, or how long it should take to relieve 20k miles of vapor storage.... but it seems like removing the valve should have released the vapor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've unplugged the solenoid for now, because that constant pumping seems like it would just burn the coil up again! Am I wrong for thinking something is wrong with the evap system? Or is this normal behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16041" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T12:28:00.480" Title="Canister purge valve constantly opening" Tags="|hyundai|evap|santa-fe|purge-solenoid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28069" CreationDate="2016-04-10T23:01:19.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lead acid battery, as used in motor vehicles has a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; low internal resistance, this means that when directly connected across the terminals of the li-po battery pack, it does act very similarly to a dead short. Most li-po packs are not designed for very high current draws, and have short circuit protection built in. This is likely tripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, the only thing readily available for the task at hand is a proper car battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T23:01:19.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-10T23:57:06.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two great comments already; couple of things to add. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why we have Octane types is because the lower-octane fuels tend to ignite at lower temperatures (ie. hot metal parts inside the combustion chamber, rather than the spark plug firing) or lower compression pressures (ie. the compression fires the engine like a diesel engine works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The octane itself historically was a measure of how much of the chemical &quot;octane&quot; was in the fuel; octane is a relatively long-chain hydrocarbon for gasoline. The longer the H-C chain, the harder it is to ignite. (Which lights easier? Propane or candle wax?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detonation is a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; power waster, besides being destructive. Think about it: the piston is trying to compress the air fuel mixture, and before the spark plug fires, the fuel/air mixture starts to burn, trying to pound the piston back down before it gets to Top Dead Center. Combustion pressures exceed the engine's design and blow holes in pistons, pop cylinder head gaskets, break connecting rods, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T23:57:06.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-11T00:00:06.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;...&#xA;As the air gets thinner at higher altitudes, your air/fuel ratio is going try to stay the same (emissions, performance, fuel efficency) if you're under the control of the ECU in closed loop mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the Mass Airflow Sensor, which detects the total mass (not volume!) of air entering the engine by a hot wire resistance sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I have no experience with Honda EFI systems, but I used to work on engine management systems on ships. (Of course, on ships, altitude was rarely an issue...) And I've got lots of experience towing cars and trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the engine's under a huge load &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it's less powerful (less air = less fuel = less power...). Supercharging was invented for piston-engine airplanes, just to keep the power up at altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to be pushing the engine very hard doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising your engine temperature (hot weather, heavy loads: towing, aerodynamics, hills) exacerbates the pre-ignition of the fuel. If your temperature gauge is higher than normal non-towing driving, you're making pinging more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running thinner air, the A/F ratio should adjust... until you hit open-loop mode (basically some part of the map is outside of parameters). The &quot;CHECK ENGINE&quot; light will come on. And the ECU will probably dump fuel into the engine to avoid detonation... do that for too long and your exhaust system (catalytic converters especially) will be overheating. More subtle but possibly more damaging than a glowing red hot exhaust system would be pinging for a long time because the fuel delivery and timing can't be optimized to avoid it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern engines have a compression ratio over about 9.0:1, certainly at the point where Mid/High Octane can make a difference. But in normal operation (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; your case here), the ECU can probably compensate enough and avoid detonation, allowing most cars to &quot;get away with&quot; running 87 Octane. Charliex noted the excessive load problem. View the altitude power reduction as an excessive load, view hill-climbing as an excessive load, view overheating as an excessive load, view the trailer as an excessive load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if the engine's compression ratio is low enough, and it's not at risk of overheating, pouring Mid/Premium gasoline into it a waste of money. My favorite engine is the Chrysler Slant-6; there's an example of a low-tech stout-as-nails old engine that only pings on 87 Octane regular unleaded if there's a timing or overheating problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're likely to heat up the engine a lot. Harder-to-IGNITE high octane fuel is your asset. Remember, as I noted, detonation wastes a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; amount of power, so even if there were a minor tradeoff in the number of Joules/L of fuel, you're still going to benefit - power is nothing without control. (Think hydrogen bomb vs. Mr. Fusion on Doc Brown's Delorean.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the owner's manual recommends higher octane fuel (especially in this circumstance) use it. If the temperature gauge moves at all above what's normal to your vehicle, use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a full tuneup; I'd recommend your brand's dealership. Tell them what you're planning to do and that you want a checkup. Go over the cooling system and the fuel system with a fine-toothed comb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while you're at it, make sure the transmission, steering, brakes, and tires are in impeccable shape. And the brakes and tires on your trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at a turbodiesel pickup truck with a 5th wheel trailer for this task. If that's not practical, take your time, leave the air conditioning off, and have a contingency plan. The premium fuel feels like cheap insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lawrence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T00:00:06.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28080" CreationDate="2016-04-11T01:00:02.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Purge is controlled by the PCM with a pulse width modulated switch signal. It is normal for it to cycle rapidly. This allows small amounts of the fuel vapor to be metered into the cylinders. This method allows the system maintain fuel control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main jobs of the evaporative control system purge valve is to maintain a slight negative pressure in the fuel tank so that fuel vapor is not pushed out thought the carbon canister and into the atmosphere.This flow direction draws fresh air through the activated charcoal in the carbon canister. This then removes the fuel from the carbon getting it ready to capture the outward flow that happens when the engine is off and during refueling.  So the purge will be on much of the time that the engine is running. It is usually turned off during deceleration and other times briefly to test mixture and run other tests. Fuel tank level has little affect on the amount of time the purge in on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T06:18:45.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T06:18:45.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T01:05:44.247" Score="5" ViewCount="7599" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2012 Chevrolet Equinox.  We cant turn off the interior heat even when we turn the temp all the way down.   Even when we turn off the heater it keeps blowing hot air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16319" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T01:46:16.193" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T16:46:53.643" Title="2012 chevy equinox blows hot air even shut off" Tags="|chevrolet|heater|temperature|equinox|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28052" CreationDate="2016-04-11T01:15:22.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how deep that tear/slit is, you may have to either get it checked or patched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a note of the pressure in the tire as it sits currently, then in a few days check if it has any loss (significant loss) of pressure, if so, then may have breached the cavity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tear/slit is not so deep, you could possibly pick up a tire repair kit from your local service station or auto store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: If it at all becomes or starts feeling weird or strange to drive on, and you feel unsafe, get it looked at immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, this is my general knowledge of what I would do if I were in the same position)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T01:15:22.377" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27983" CreationDate="2016-04-11T08:46:59.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you'll have to take that to a shop - I had a very similar set of locks on a car before, I tried using a remover set like the one in Ben's answer, but it didn't get anywhere - the outer chromed ring split in two circumferentially and just span - the tyre shop used a special single-use tool that was hammered into the keyhole and deformed to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T08:46:59.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28078" CreationDate="2016-04-11T09:02:36.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The late 60s to early 70s mustangs has shocks and springs on the upper control arms. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcbQp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcbQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally They are installed on the lower control arm to save space. By fitting them between the control arms the towers don't have to be as tall or the shock/spring could be mounted directly to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T09:02:36.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28106" CreationDate="2016-04-11T09:49:33.457" Score="9" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1990's Citroen BX TGE16 with no o2 sensors or anyhing fancy on the exhaust as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My exhaust is all rattly most surely from rust and age so I'm planning on changing soon. Thing is, with such a simple exhaust... Could I comission a local metal working buissness to make a 'tube' that would fit my exhaust system?&#xA;I'm basically looking for a build that will let my engine breathe better and will sound nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I take into account when doing so?&#xA;The law in my country doesn't take emissions or noise into account on cars classified as classics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aproach to this would be removing the exhaust and taking it in to the buisness, would driving without an exhaust be sensible in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T09:54:51.473" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:19:09.713" Title="Making a custom exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|custom|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2016-04-11T10:35:40.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not advise running with open headers or decatted exhausts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOx and CO emissions are not a nice thing to breathe in. Plus the stench will make for an uncomfortable driving experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T10:55:55.640" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T10:55:55.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-11T10:41:07.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people get confused with octane ratings. The octane rating is the fuels resistance to detonation, ie, the fuel / air mix igniting just due to pressure. When this happens the resulting burn is very violent and can easily cause major engine damage. When the fuel / air mix burns normally it pushes down progressively on the piston; when detonation occurs it is an explosion which is more akin to hitting the piston with a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On their own a higher octane fuel will give no more power in general. Higher octane fuels tend to have a very marginally lower energy content (after all, the additives used to increase the octane rating are themselves not good fuels). Further one way to increase the octane rating of a fuel is to just make it burn a bit more slowly (so cylinder pressures increase more slowly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a high enough octane fuel to avoid detonation then you get no benefit from a higher octane fuel on a basic engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are edge situations where the octane rating is borderline and high load situations can trigger detonation (eg, climbing very steep hills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle has a knock sensor and the ECU can adjust the ignition timing based on the feedback from this then it is possible that it can take advantage of higher octane fuel to an extent to get more power (and possibly better fuel consumption from using less fuel to get the same power). The difference is likely to be fairly minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More common (but probably not on an RV) is a vehicle with a turbo and a knock sensor, allowing boost to be increased to take advantage of the higher octane fuel. The difference here can be significant (one vehicle we have you can readily feel the difference in power between European 95 RON and 98 RON fuels as boost is increased).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the other option is that you manually advance the ignition timing (either remapping, or on older vehicles just turning the distributor a touch) and / or increase the boost to take advantage of the higher octane fuel. But doing this and then being forced to refuel with lower octane fuel puts you at risk of serious engine damage unless you readjust it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So overall, it depends. On a basic engine in a low state of tune there will be zero benefit. On a modern normally aspirated engine there is the possibility of a tiny benefit (but I doubt it is enough to compensate for the higher cost of high octane fuels). On a turbocharged engine there is a good chance of improved power and probably higher fuel economy (if you can resist making use of the higher power available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T10:41:07.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29639" CreationDate="2016-04-11T10:53:18.903" Score="8" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/05/motorcycle-reliability-and-owner-satisfaction/index.htm&quot;&gt;this survey&lt;/a&gt;, electrical parts in motorcycles are the most probable to fail. Which of the electrical parts in modern motorcycles are necessary for maintaining basic driving capacity? In order to make the question more clear, I would like to make an analogy from a motor cycle to a computer program (since this is my area of expertise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that we are dealing with a program that can be operated via a graphical user interface (GUI) as well as a text-based command-line interface (CLI). In modern software engineering, programs tend to be very modularized with the separate modules ideally being as independent as possible from each other. In the case of this example this would mean that the GUI and CLI are separate modules that don't depend on each other (i.e. if one fails, the other one will still work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now consider that to operate the program we normally use the GUI, but one day the GUI stops working. Since the error cannot be fixed easily we resort to the CLI for now. The CLI might not be as comfortable to operate but the basic functionality of the program can still be accessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to my question: Which electrical parts in modern motorcycles are obligatory for maintaining the basic functionality of the motorcycle (which is the ability to drive with a reasonable degree of safety) and which parts are more like the GUI in the above example, i.e. they might make the driving experience more comfortable and (at least a bit) safer but are optional in terms of basic driving capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:12:05.647" Title="Which electrical parts in motorcycles are obligatory for basic driving capacity?" Tags="|motorcycle|electronics|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28017" CreationDate="2016-04-11T11:02:58.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I've heard of is to measure the weight of the filter. A better filter has more filter material and heavier stronger components. I'll have to look up the source when I get home , but I've actually taken a digital scale with me and weighed oil filters and found significant differences in weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T11:02:58.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25049" CreationDate="2016-04-11T12:09:06.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very much depends on the particular 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. But a major advantage of a 2 stroke is that they can be produced incredibly simply and so cheaply. An engine with 3 moving components (crankshaft, con rod and piston) is probably not tweaked for fuel consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue is probably that the exhaust port is open while the intake mixture is being taken in. Hence a potentially large amount of unburnt fuel disappears straight down the exhaust having performed no useful function (beyond maybe cooling the engine a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further fuel atomisation is likely not helped by feeding the intake mixture through the crankcases and ports, giving the fuel more chance to form larger droplets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a performance 2 stroke the exhaust will be designed to draw mixture through the engine, both burnt exhaust gas out and fresh mixture in. Likely more fresh mixture will be drawn through to the exhaust , before pressure waves push this mixture back in to the engine. This works well for getting extra fuel (and hence power), but is not so good for economy. Further it only works at certain rpm ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these issues can be fixed with direct fuel injection (and there have been production 2 stroke motorcycles with direct fuel injection engines, and Ford produced a batch of Fiestas in the 1990s with 2 stroke engines for evaluation purposes). But direct fuel injection is an expensive and complex addition to a simple engine. With such a system air can be taken in to the engine with the fuel only injected once the exhaust port is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 stroke engine does have a major advantage over the conventional 4 stroke engine. Without needing to contain valves the combustion chamber can be far more easily shaped to suit the purposes of that particular engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T12:09:06.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28103" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:47:45.083" Score="7" ViewCount="4246" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to connect &lt;code&gt;CANBUS sniffer device&lt;/code&gt; to a PC (computer) with &lt;code&gt;CAN-H&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;CAN-L&lt;/code&gt; pairs and test the sniffer device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to convert my &lt;em&gt;PC&lt;/em&gt; to an &lt;code&gt;ECU emulator&lt;/code&gt;, connect a CANBUS sniffer device's &lt;code&gt;CAN-H&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;CAN-L&lt;/code&gt; cable pair directly to a PC's &lt;code&gt;COM port&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Virtual COM over USB&lt;/code&gt;, and send data to the CANBUS sniffer device from my PC, to test that the CANBUS sniffer device is working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16324" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T15:07:34.867" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T15:07:34.867" Title="Is there a way to use a PC as an ECU for testing CANBUS Sniffer devices?" Tags="|electronic-control-module|can-bus|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:33:45.980" Score="12" ViewCount="5547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do we mostly use fossil fuel instead of something like... Alcohol? We used it in a portion of our gas, so why don't we use it in greater quantities? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there's a reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is alcohol does not contain enough oxygen to allow for a smooth combustion. Does fossil fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T17:33:40.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T07:19:13.450" Title="Why do we mostly use fossil fuel instead of a more reliable and larger sum fuel?" Tags="|engine-theory|gasoline|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27600" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:35:18.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the plastic end of the cable that connects the gear stick to the transmission broke, so the cable was loose.  I had to unmount the plastic covers around the gear shift to find the problem.  Our mechanic friend suggested a home built solution instead of having to replace the full cable, which would have required a lot more involvement.  The car now shifts correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15985" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:35:18.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28111" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:51:26.303" Score="6" ViewCount="9379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2008 Silverado 5.3 with 77k on it. After a couple weeks I noticed that at idle the engine would stumble and my rpms would drop slightly. It eventually set off the check engine light with cylinder 1 misfire and random cylinder misfire. A couple days later the light went off but the issues remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner spray, cleaned the throttle body, and run a couple bottles of techron through to clean up the injectors, but no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont know if it's related, but I also get a lot of dark blue/black (hard to say) smoke from the tailpipe on cold starts for a few seconds before clearing up. This led me to thinking I was getting oil in the cylinders when the rings cool and contract, which I tracked to known oil burning issues with these AFM engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm not sure what else to try before spending a fortune at the shop. My only remaining thought is to replace the plugs and coils. But even if that fixes the misfire I'm not sure what to do about the cold start smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I had been keeping a casual eye on my oil levels since my last change and did notice a pretty drastic decrease in just a couple thousand miles. I'll just changed it again this past weekend and will keep a close eye on it. Would this affect engine misfires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I pulled the #1 cylinder spark plug since I had a misfire code for that cylinder and it was fouled up with oil and deposits in the threads and at the firing end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastEditorUserId="16329" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T12:29:53.417" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T12:42:28.550" Title="08 Silverado 5.3 rough idle and dark cold start exhaust" Tags="|engine|exhaust|rough-idle|misfire|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28098" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:51:48.433" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you really want to look into is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_density&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Energy Density&lt;/a&gt;.  So called &quot;Fossil Fuels&quot; have a very high energy density, which is very important for a vehicle fuel since you have to load it and carry it around with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart shows fuels listed in order of their energy density:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plESf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/plESf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the main reason we don't use X for fuel and everyone seems to be so in love with gasoline and diesel is because for our current technology, they are just really, really efficient and packing a lot of power in a small space.  Combine that with the fact that it's easy to store and distribute, and you've got a combo that's very hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:51:48.433" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:53:02.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could easily commission someone to make a &quot;tube&quot; to replace your exhaust, baring in mind if you replace the whole thing you will need to take various things into consideration such as exhaust hangers, flexi-pipe to handle engine flex (when the engine moves it will pull the exhaust away), etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore what Zaid said about decatted exhausts, If you make an almost airtight exhaust system you won't run into any issues with CO or &quot;stench&quot; + probably gain a few BHP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:53:02.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28097" CreationDate="2016-04-11T15:05:02.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly you are not going to be able to do what you want simply connecting CAN-H and CAN-L to a serial port. Here is a pointer to the physical interface layer for CANBUS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slla270/slla270.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CANBUS Physical layer ISO 11898&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will find is that while CAN is a &quot;serial bus&quot; that just means that the data is transmitted one bit at a time. It does not mean that it can be connected to a serial port. The serial port on your PC or the one on a USB to serial adapter require RS-232 input levels. CAN is roughly 2 or 3 volts and not the +3 to +15 or -3 to -15 required by RS-232. In addition the serial ports require a start and stop bit with 8 bits of data between them. That's not at all how data is transmitted on CANBUS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is a evaluation board for a CANBUS transceiver which will likely have an output you can connect to a PC via serial or USB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help describe this, here is a diagram of the standard architecture for these kinds of system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOt3x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOt3x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Standard CAN bus architecture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your PC would have to be at the other end of one of these connections on the &quot;CAN BusLine&quot; and hence would need an embedded CAN controller to talk to. The device you're trying to test will have a matching stack inside it, and you need one connected to your PC in order to talk to it. It's all possible by finding an evaluation board for an embedded CAN controller who's interface is serial or USB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T15:05:02.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2016-04-11T15:17:50.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't drive around for very long without an exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, we have a number of exhaust fabrication specialists who are able to build exhaust on the car for you.  Typically these utilize stainless steel and come with a lifetime warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, Bosul exhausts do manufacture a replacement system for your vehicle but it might take some effort to track one down that's for sale and at a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T15:17:50.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3520" CreationDate="2016-04-11T16:55:35.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the alternator or you might have to change the battery, I notice that I had that problem. And once I changed my battery the problem went away. I believe it is a voltage drop which causes the volume to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16332" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T16:55:35.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2016-04-11T17:00:21.180" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes!  Absolutely you can have this done.  The quality of work may vary depending on the level of experience of the shop you commission to do the work but you could end up with something like this, if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0cjD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g0cjD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not remove the entire exhaust and take it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How are they going to know where the exhaust should run without having the engine bay and frame available to measure everything up to ensure it fits into the engine bay correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Running the engine with no exhaust is not good for your exhaust valves.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust fumes from your engine bay will get into the cabin and you will be breathing in some very noxious fumes that kill living organisms, that being you and whomever else get's in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep the header/manifold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use your current exhaust manifold that comes off your cylinder head, that's the most cost effective and reliable way.  You don't want anyone fabricating that piece.  You would then cut off the beginning of your exhaust pipe that bolts up to the manifold to use that.  Your fabricator can then weld tubing that is the same as the current diameter of your exhaust pipe to that connector piece so it can bolt up to your manifold with the right connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add in a muffler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then weld a muffler into the system.  It's level of restriction may force you to tune your carburetor to match the restriction in the muffler.  More backpressure will richen your system.  Less will lean it out.  You don't want to run rich or lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rich wastes fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lean runs hot, more oxygen, and can damage your exhaust valves and 'burn' them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a QA on burnt valves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17944/what-exactly-is-a-burnt-valve-and-what-causes-it&quot;&gt;What exactly is a &amp;quot;burnt valve&amp;quot; and what causes it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a muffler in it too, you need the restriction and the back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you love the planet, put a catalytic converter in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably have to tune your air fuel ratio to get things proper after you install your exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the whole car in when you do it so they can fabricate it properly and run the exhaust to match the current fitment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:19:09.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28058" CreationDate="2016-04-11T17:23:15.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How was the fluid level, do you have the proper amount of fluid in it? If so, then it sounds like it could be the torque converter, but I'd have a mechanic or transmission shop take a look and get their recommendation. Could be all you need is a drain and a refill with the proper fluid. Shaking at a red light could be worn or dirty plugs, the transmission, or something like an engine mount. A good first step would be to pull a couple of the plugs and take a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T17:23:15.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T17:52:27.813" Score="3" ViewCount="3325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the safety concerns leading to grounding to the frame or engine for the car with a dead battery. From what I've read the dead battery is the one with a chance of venting hydrogen, but every source I've seen says to make the ground connection there last. If sparking at the last connection is the  concern then why not ground the good battery last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16335" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:11:42.560" Title="When jump starting a car why not hook up the negative on the donor car last?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-13T20:19:45.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28077" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:01:33.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, they are all distinct stages. However in reality, varying engine speeds need the valve timing and the ignition timing to change. That is why variable valve timings exist (&quot;VTEC just kicked in yo!&quot;) and variable ignition timing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quiz is in a way correct because, it is the most general form of the 4 stroke engine. How many degrees after the BDC the intake valve remains open or how many degrees after the  TDC the exhaust valve closes, and even how many degrees before or after the TDC the spark plugs fires depend on the engine speed. This changes from manufacturer to manufacturer, engine to engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, it is not correct to say that the spark plug fires a certain number before or after the TDC but it is correct to say that the spark plug fires in the combustion/power stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, the combustion stroke, is whichever stroke the chemical energy of the fuel is converted to mechanical energy of the engine (Irrespective of when the spark plug fires. The spark may fire before or after TDC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:01:33.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28108" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:11:42.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fair warning, this is a guess.  Vote appropriately...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General accepted order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dead +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good +&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good - (directly to the terminal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad - (to a good engine ground, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the terminal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoiding the last connection directly to the dead negative is to avoid sparks near the dead battery, but this also avoids sparks near &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; batteries since the good one is securely connected at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connecting Positive first is good because doing it the other way makes it easier to accidentally short out the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, why not start with the Good battery positive?  I think the reasoning is that you want the best possible connection to the Good battery, so you really want the alligator clips of the cables connected directly to the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To connect the positives first and end with a negative connection &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the battery, the &quot;recommended&quot; method is the only order that satisfies everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:11:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28100" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:15:57.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, the 5.3l engine (could be all of the Vortec LS engines, don't know) is thirsty. It drinks a bit of oil. Be aware you could be looking at up to 2 quarts between oil changes. I don't know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what the issue is, but it does have a bit of an oil control issue whether it has to do with leakage or burning. My '06 is this way. It has never ran bad due to its use of oil (though obviously too much oil would cause issues for the cylinders as well as the cats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your issue with running is most likely a bad coil. The easiest way to test this theory is to change the single coil out with a different one and see if the problem follows the coil change. You may also try to push in both the connector at the top, as well as both ends of the spark plug wire. You may consider changing out the plugs with new ones to see if this helps your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be the spark plug on the No. 1 cylinder as well. If the spark plug is bad, it would give you the misfire, but spark plugs in these are supposed to be good to around 100k miles. You can pull the #1 plug and see what's going on with it. You'd be looking for a tan colored plug if it was running good. Obviously since you've already been getting a misfire code on #1, this may be moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing it might be is a stuck/leaking injector. I'm doubting this. You would need to pull the fuel rail, leaving the injector on the rail, then pressurize the system looking at whether it dumps fuel without the engine running to tell if this is an issue. This might account for the bit of black/gray/bluish smoke on startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:15:57.330" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28098" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:36:47.607" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;While energy density is a rather nice property of gasoline and diesel, it's not the primary driver of their use. Instead, the primary driver is a rather practical one: &lt;strong&gt;they're cheaper&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the consumer side of things, we don't tend to notice this, as most places price things volumetricly &amp;mdash; so much per gallon. In order to see the &quot;true&quot; price, you have to account for things like energy density and engine efficiency. In the end the price which matters is dollars per &lt;em&gt;mile&lt;/em&gt;, not dollars per gallon. If you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/prices.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;do the conversion&lt;/a&gt;, you see that ethanol (E85) is consistently around 20% more expensive (on a per mile basis) in the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the lower energy density of ethanol doesn't automatically kill the calculation. You can see this in places like Brazil. Brazil has a substantial number of ethanol-powered vehicles. There isn't anything special about the ethanol in Brazil which increases its energy density. The main thing that's changed is that due to the large number of sugarcane plantations in Brazil, ethanol is much, much cheaper than elsewhere. Price of a fuel is a complex mix of the cost of production, the cost of transportation, and the local tax policy. What's the cheapest option in one place is not the cheapest in another, and people will gravitate towards whatever is cheapest locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cost per mile of ethanol were to become cheaper in the United States or Europe, then you'd see people switch over there too &amp;mdash; even if that means they have to increase the size of their fuel tanks or fill up more often. (As evidenced by people switching over to electric cars, despite the comparatively horrible energy density of batteries. Electricity is much less expensive per mile than gasoline and diesel, so it can make sense to switch over if you can bear the more frequent re-fueling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16336" LastEditorUserId="16380" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T07:19:13.450" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T07:19:13.450" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27944" CreationDate="2016-04-11T20:12:06.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Popping&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too have a Tiger 800xc (2013) and have noticed it popping when downshifting and revs are too high for that gear. I did notice a significant difference in this behavior after 12,000 mile service, and using 91 RON fuel (not all brands and outlets are same... for me ARCO has worked best). At this point, I consider &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of it as normal behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your update, considering the mechanics are OK, then a map update might help as it will also address fuel mix being too lean or too rich. That can be done using TuneECU. Tutorial and resources to work with TuneECU can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tuning-help-tips-and-tricks/218346-tuneecu-for-dummies-installation-guide-and-questions-pertaining-to-installation.html#post2353942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tuning-help-tips-and-tricks/218346-tuneecu-for-dummies-installation-guide-and-questions-pertaining-to-installation.html#post2353942&lt;/a&gt; . It is too long to be copied here, and I strongly recommend reading the &lt;em&gt;whole&lt;/em&gt; post before beginning work with TuneECU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TuneECU will also tell you the reason for Check Engine light being lit, however you will not be able to clear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check Engine Light&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, check engine light signifies that an error has been detected by the system and is stored in the ECU. Those errors can be manually cleared using software like DealerTool or similar. I suggest you get that kit (proprietary cable and accompanying software for Windows) if you want to stick with European brands and see yourself working with engine lights and flushing ABS brakes. It will also help you align your throttle bodies if they are not properly aligned. The check engine light will go away on itself after about 500 km or miles if the problematic condition is no longer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check if you are dealing with one off issue, address/understand the error stored in the ECU and clear them to fix the Check Engine light. Diagnosis and resolution can be found in forums and Triumph's service manual - &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/tonymorris/800xc/blob/master/manuals.md&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/tonymorris/800xc/blob/master/manuals.md&lt;/a&gt;. If the same error reappears after being cleared, then you might need more work and service manual should still be able to help you with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16341" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T15:10:50.843" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T15:10:50.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T21:46:06.727" Score="5" ViewCount="5239" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 1986 Ford F-150 (carbureted) when I go left around a corner, the engine sputters. Feels very similar to running out of gas, but it picks back up once I stop turning. Only happens in a sharp corner, and only left, not right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've experienced this before in a 1995 VW Golf. In that case the engine only cut out when turning right. I had it serviced at a shop back then, and as I recall it was something in or near the gas tank along the fuel line that had cracked and was letting air into the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common problem? Any highly suspect parts I should be checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastEditorUserId="2168" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T23:00:19.320" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T01:46:27.627" Title="Engine sputters when turning left corner" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|troubleshooting|fuel-tank|fuel-line|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T21:47:22.163" Score="5" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come home at 2:30 today.  Two hours later, I go out to the garage to find my car clicking repeatedly while the parking lights flicker in unison with the clicks.  I hadn't even gotten into my car yet.  It was doing this all by itself.  The sound appears to be coming from a fuse box beneath the hood.  I have keyless entry and cannot start my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note that my oil light came on last week and also, at around the same time, the battery light for my fob.  This seems battery-related, but I can't imagine either of those would make my car come alive on its own like this.  A couple times in the past, I have pressed the ignition button to have it turn over and grind a few times before it actually started (akin to turning the key and having to hold it for a few seconds before the car starts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16344" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T21:51:52.490" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T14:14:18.247" Title="2013 Honda Accord clicking repeatedly on its own?" Tags="|honda|battery|starting|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T21:53:03.990" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 VW BEETLE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to change my clutch all the way from the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Still have no clutch. Then when I tried to start my car all the lights come on even radio but wont even turn over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the lights maybe on but no-one is home kinda thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried resetting the comp but still no cranking. What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16345" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T22:37:34.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T05:23:58.677" Title="1998 VW Beetle - Clutch and Electrical Issues" Tags="|electrical|vw|clutch|clutch-cylinder|beetle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28114" CreationDate="2016-04-11T21:55:01.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My theory is you have a stuck float in your carburetor. This is causing the fuel bowl not to fill completely. When you go around the corner, the main jets are without fuel (sucking air) and this kills engine power. Getting the carb rebuilt (or at least looked at) will probably solve the issue. You may also try using a plastic handled screwdriver and using the handle, thump on the fuel bowls a few times (don't do this &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hard). This may release the float and allow it to run right temporarily. Usually, this isn't going to cure itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T21:55:01.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28119" CreationDate="2016-04-11T22:50:09.863" Score="9" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit of intensive study I've learned the ins and outs of how a car works, the majority of it. Not well enough to stop needing a mechanic, but well enough to understand what every component does, the basics of how it works, and how it relates to the other components. Which is a great start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd like to be able to really start fixing thing myself, and despite all this new knowledge, when I lift the hood of the car, it still looks like a massive horrifying tangle among which I can only visually identify a portion of the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like from one car to another the arrangement and shape of the components varies so much that when you're a beginner it's very easy to get lost, even if it's obvious what's what later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere online where I can find labeled charts telling me which component is which? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1631" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T09:11:30.117" Title="Where can I get help finding my way around the engine of my specific model of car?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28118" CreationDate="2016-04-11T22:58:23.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recommend going to your nearest auto parts store and picking up a Chilton manual for your make/model. There are a few other publishers you may like better. From what I can tell they're all about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These manuals aren't perfect, and don't always have as much detail as you'd want, but they do have a lot of diagrams and are a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2168" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T22:58:23.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T23:08:54.933" Score="6" ViewCount="5442" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Infiniti G35, 155k KMs (~97k miles), totally stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittently, after cold starts on cold mornings, I hear a &quot;soft metal screeching&quot; oscillating roughly twice a second.  The sound disappears after about a minute.  It only happens occasionally and I haven't yet heard it when the engine is warm or the outside temperature is above 0 degrees Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vid.me/LpDG&quot;&gt;I managed to get a recording of it this morning&lt;/a&gt;.  It's best heard from 6-10 seconds in.  The video actually makes it sounds quite a bit worse than it is (crappy phone camera/mic).  It's not nearly that loud in person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly pulleys and/or their bearings?  The belts look pretty new, no cracking.  Not sure what to look for with pulleys, they all seem pretty tight when I press against them with my hand while the engine is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a telltale sign of something that a mechanic will be able to diagnose?  If I take it into a garage, they most likely won't be able to reproduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16346" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T06:11:50.627" Title="Rhythmic &quot;soft screeching&quot; noise for a minute after cold starts on cold days ... sometimes" Tags="|engine|starting|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28098" CreationDate="2016-04-11T23:10:02.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can use ethanol instead of gasoline and disregarding some fairly minor technical issues they are more or less interchangeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is one of supply. We have the capacity to produce a reliable supply of gasoline from petroleum extraction which has a well established infrastructure for production and processing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a fuel context 'alcohol' generally means 'bioethanol' produced by the fermentation (or an equivalent industrial process) of plant products. The problem is that this puts fuel production potentially in direct competition with food production and the same applies to 'bio diesel' from vegetable oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an energy requirement in turning the low concentration alcohol produced by fermentation (equivalent to beer) into a useful fuel by distillation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T23:10:02.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-11T23:35:22.307" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;07 Town &amp;amp; Country - The a/c compressor only kicks on when I have the it set on defrost. When I move the setting to vent or anything else it blows cold for about 3-5 mins then it gradually gets warmer and humid. Also, when it's on defrost blowing cold air, it feels like heat is blowing on the driver floor! HELP &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16347" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T00:17:34.227" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T00:17:34.227" Title="A/C only kicks on when set to defrost" Tags="|ac|chrysler|town-and-country|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28114" CreationDate="2016-04-12T01:46:27.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of a long shot, but I had this problem with an old Nova, turning right.  That was due to loose screws in the carb.  It might have been the mounts to the intake manifold; but, my vague memory is of tightening screws on the topside.  It was a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T01:46:27.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28116" CreationDate="2016-04-12T05:23:58.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These could be seperate issues all together perhaps, the clutch does sound interesting, you might have missed something in the process of changing you're clutch? Also don't forget (I think) about the clutch slave (Not sure if VW beetles have one.. but I'd assume most if not all manual cars do).. Just check it over, making sure that everything is in its correct place/position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the lights/turning over.. make sure all items that use power to start are turned off (e.g. headlights, interior lights, radio, etc..) If the problem persists, check (maybe, but unlikely) your ground? As well as remembering to check the charge of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I do not own a VW, this is my knowledge of what I would do in the same situation. I do not hold responsibility for damage or harm that happens to the vehicle or yourself, this is just what I would do in the same position)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T05:23:58.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28056" CreationDate="2016-04-12T05:31:30.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going only from the information here, I'd say there were two issues going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I'd say that the brake job was done incorrectly/badly. A squeaky noise when you apply the brakes is often because the mechanic didn't put any copperslip or similar hi temperature grease on the back of the brake pads (not the bit touching the caliper!). The 'not stopping as fast as it should' could also be related, if the brake system was not bled correctly - if there is air in the brake lines, you're not going to stop quickly, because you need to compress the air before the hydraulic fluid can do anything on the pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the clicking/clunking; does it get worse when you turn corners? Find a car park, and drive around in circles. If it gets worse when you're turning to the right, it's the left-hand side CV joint; if worse when you're turning to the left, it's the right-hand side CV joint. In either case, the cheapest/best/quickest solution is to replace the driveshaft on the affected side (or both sides if you wish - they're pretty cheap, and the one that hasn't gone yet is the same age as the one that &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; gone)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quick confirmation of this, take the car to a reputable garage and ask them to check it out. May cost you 30 minutes of their time, but if you give them the job to fix it, the diagnosis should be free. All of these issues are doable by someone with a few basic tools, but a garage should set your mind at rest. Do NOT take the car back to whoever did the original brake job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T05:31:30.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11163" CreationDate="2016-04-12T06:48:39.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the alternator fails, the copper windings melt and become shorted. This will cause an electrical fire smell and will cause several indicators to come on. As others have stated, burnt fuses and failed regulators can cause the same smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a regulator stops... regulating, your voltage can spike to excessive levels causing equipment to burn out and fuses to blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you mentioned that the wipers quit working, I'm assuming it was raining when this happened. If you live in a place that salts the roads in winter, rain water can become highly conductive, and hitting a deep puddle can send this water up into the engine compartment. Most of the electrical equipment is protected in sealed cases, unless these seals have worn. But the alternator and, consequently, the regulator are not protected. My first inclination is that the regulator failed or was temporarily shorted and caused the alternator to continue charging above 14 volts. At night, the driver might have noticed headlights and interior or indicator lights becoming excessively bright just before the problem occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation is rare and circumstantial, but possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd like to reiterate,&lt;/strong&gt; though, that it's normal for a simple alternator failure to cause an electrical fire smell, and for things like wiper motors to stop running, and also for several indicator lights to come on, chiefly the Battery Charging System light. When an alternator fails, you'll see black soot all over the vent holes where you can normally see the copper windings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16041" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T06:48:39.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28118" CreationDate="2016-04-12T08:24:06.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Troy says, you want a workshop manual - as well as the Chilton ones he mentions, there are also Haynes (the dominant publisher in the UK) and other publishers - plus the 'official' ones for your particular car - the latter can often be found on well-known online auction sites, particularly for older cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T08:24:06.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28134" CreationDate="2016-04-12T08:34:42.830" Score="6" ViewCount="45095" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know brake pads are supposed to maintain &lt;em&gt;slight&lt;/em&gt; contact with the rotor at all times. As usually the only thing pushing the piston back after braking is flex of the square cut seal around the piston (which has quite a short travel path), eliminating drag completely is difficult (and probably pointless). However:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is it safe to say that brakes are dragging too much? For example, should the wheel be spinning freely when you turn it by hand (jacked up, of course) even if there is a slight dragging noise? Should the discs be cool after a calm drive? Should only the wheels be cool?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a seized piston the only reason for brakes dragging (if properly sized pads and rotors are installed)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T17:03:48.203" Title="How much disc brake drag is acceptable?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|brake-calipers|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28129" CreationDate="2016-04-12T09:06:31.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my mind, a wheel should spin freely when spun on the jack.  A little noise is acceptable but if the wheel is clearly being slowed down excessively or is particularly hot after use, something is not right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards causes for brake drag, there do indeed include seized or sticking pistons but could also include sticky or corroded caliper slides (the pins, sleeved or shims that the yolk of the caliper moves on), corrosion of the pad backing plate of the pad itself or even anti-squeal shim can cause pads to stick in the caliper.  Corrosion in the caliper itself along the aspect which the pads are moving.  A pad that's worn down to the metal may cause a brake to drag or bind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen debris such as stones entering the caliper causing problems as well as misshapen backing plates rubbing on discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T09:06:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28118" CreationDate="2016-04-12T09:11:30.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way I've found which will give you a very in depth insight into a particular make or model is to attend a car show.  Either a vehicle specific meeting or club or a show where many owners clubs are invited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enthusiastic owners displaying their cars are always very keen to talk about them, the common pitfalls, the specific items to check, the nuances of the layout of the components plus you can get far more specific detail by quizzing an enthusiastic owner that you'll find in a book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T09:11:30.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2016-04-12T09:16:40.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check whether there actually is a cat in there or not, and exactly what the rules are.  Most countries by the 90s had started enforcing emissions rules, and most countries' rules for classics are that they must meet emissions regs at the time the car was built.  Clearly for an E-type Jag, the world wants them around as a moving work of art, and emissions are an accepted cost for their beauty.  For a boring rustbucket Citroen, not so much. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine will still run without a working cat, but it will probably run more rich than it should, which won't do your fuel consumption any good.  You'll also get a big red light on your dash to tell you it's not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cost goes, the main cost on anything is manpower.  A mass-produced off-the-shelf exhaust will certainly be cheaper than a custom job.  If you want to save money, why even consider custom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T09:16:40.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28149" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:39:38.213" Score="7" ViewCount="96029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I flushed my transmission recently, and I overfilled it slightly, maybe by a 1/2 liter on a transmission that takes about 8 liters.  When cold, the fluid is a little over the cold mark, but not up to the hot mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this harm the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T10:11:06.837" Title="Will a Slight Overfill Harm an Automatic Transmission" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28129" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:45:15.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a freely spinning wheel?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course, you should be able to spin the wheel by hand, but beneath the brake, bearing and transmission can apply lots of drag. My rear wheels do about 1.5 to 2 turns, my front wheels not more than half a turn when I put them in rotation by hand. &#xA;While it's the same for the front wheel of my mother's car, its rear wheels seem to spin forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to compare the left and right wheel to get an idea about the expected drag, furthermore, one can compare the drag before and after removing the caliper as well as after removing the pads. (Pads alone can be seized due to dirt / corrosion, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature also gives a good hint on whether a brake is seized or not. Highly seized brakes produce lots of heat, slightly seized ones still a little.&#xA;But again, it is not easy to judge if a wheel is slightly seized, as the temperature depends on drive behavior, weather and the car itself. And the bearings and tires also produce some heat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is again best to compare right and left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I once had a highly seized brake in the rear which still wasn't noticeable while driving. But after, I could feel the heat on my skin when standing away one meter from the wheel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a infrared thermometer and measure temperature of wheels and discs from time to time. &#xA;The second time I had a highly seized brake (front), the wheel had a temperature of 100°C (210°F), and the disk of nearly 300°C (570°F) after driving 120-140km/h (75-85mph) for 30min plus driving home at low speed for 5min. The seizes brake was only noticeable while driving at that high speed, as it started to make noise and the car pulled to the side when braking. It was not noticeable when driving in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't be too paranoid. When my rear discs and pads had been replaced, the temperature difference between the discs was 20-30°C, but as the brakes broke in, the temperature difference decreased and now is in the order of 5-10°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My left/right discs now differ about 5-10°C in temperature, but when I had my rear discs and pads replaced, both sides differed by about 20-30°C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T10:45:15.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24733" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:45:43.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To summarize the various comments into an answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can connect an ammeter (or a voltmeter in current mode) in series between the charger and the battery - this will tell you if a current is flowing through the circuit - and so whether the charger is at least attempting to charge the battery. Make sure that the meter you are using can take the maximum current that the charger can emit, and never connect the meter across the battery terminals in current mode - you'll probably destroy the meter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't, however, tell you if the battery is actually holding a charge - for that you'll have to measure the voltage across the batter terminals after disconnecting the charger, and again a few hours later, to see if it has dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T10:45:43.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28137" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:50:32.047" Score="7" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being used to driving manual transmissions, I occasionally forget to put my ATX in park when I shut off the vehicle ( I'm getting better ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I did that without realizing it, and when I went to start the car it wouldn't turn over.  I got out my multimeter, checked the battery voltage, then pulled the ignition fuse and checked if current was flowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I saw was that I was getting about 164 amps over the ignition fuse when I would try to crank the engine, but it wasn't turning over at all, it didn't even seem like the starter was engaging, as I didn't feel any buck or movement of any kind.  The very high current ( the fuse is only 40 amps ) makes me think the starter is engaging in a futile, energy intense struggle to turn the engine over, yet the total lack of any buck or other movement makes me think the opposite, that the starter isn't engaging at all.  For example, if I put my manual transmission car in first with the parking break on and turn it over the whole car will buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on a 98 Mazda 626.  So what's going on here exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T10:58:55.097" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T10:25:23.193" Title="How Does Being in Drive Disable the Starter on an ATX Vehicle?" Tags="|starting|automatic-transmission|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28136" CreationDate="2016-04-12T10:57:47.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's usually an inhibitor switch that stops the current going to the starter unless the transmission is in park - on older vehicles, a mechanical switch activated by the linkage from the gear selector, but on newer stuff I'd assume it is inside one of the many computers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T10:57:47.623" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T11:13:05.657" Score="9" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD ex-cab 2wheel drive with a 6.0 gas engine and a six speed 6L90 automatic transmission. I have started noticing what I believe is called &quot;shudder&quot; from my tranny under fairly heavy acceleration or going uphill. Its just like the noise you hear when you accidently get across the white line on the passenger side while on the freeway and hit the &quot;rumble strip&quot;. How can I be sure thats the problem and is there an easy fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13279" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T14:47:10.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T14:47:10.427" Title="Torque convertor shudder?" Tags="|transmission|gmc|torque-converter|sierra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-10T23:53:28.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27232" CreationDate="2016-04-12T13:35:34.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommended battery for a 2000* Jaguar S-type 3.0 is a 019, which has 800CCA and a capacity of 100Ah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Randomly chosen as you didn't specify a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T13:35:34.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28115" CreationDate="2016-04-12T14:14:18.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen electronic toys with very weak batteries do what you're describing.  They try to come on, but as everything starts to power up, the little remaining battery current can't keep up, and the toy goes dark, just to start the process over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your battery is very weak, I could see how the key less entry system might be starting to &quot;boot up&quot; and blink the lights, but the current draw from all the lights (which is significant) is too much for the battery, so it dies.  The low power electronics then try to start again only to be starved when the lights try to fire, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery voltage now.  It should be close to 12v, but I suspect it will be much lower.  Then try to get a jump start.  If the car starts, check the voltage when the car is running.  It should be closer to 14v if the alternator is charging properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as far as the oil light - you checked the oil level right?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T14:14:18.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28147" CreationDate="2016-04-12T14:19:00.437" Score="10" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;When getting new tires and a seller refers to a tire with a 60,000 mileage life does that mean that the actual tire is expected to reach a full wear pattern by a certain thickness or is that from a tested failure rate around that mileage?  Though, Ive never been able to actually get the full mileage life of a tire even rotating and balancing during the suggestive intervals I've always wondered what the milage life meant when considering new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T03:12:32.593" Title="Is tire life by mileage a failure point or wear point?" Tags="|tires|mileage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T14:36:21.520" Score="4" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;2004 Crown Vic had right rear door replaced, they didn't hang hinges carefully and door wouldn't open easily.  I unbolted the front seat belt pretensioner from the door post to access the lower hinge bolts and when I put everything back together the seat belt won't extend.  Unbolting the pretensioner again allows it to retract even further but it won't extend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a quick fix or do I have to buy another pretensioner?  And what to I do to keep from causing the same problem on the replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T16:05:30.817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T11:14:03.307" Title="2004 Crown Vic seat belt tensioner won't extend" Tags="|ford|belt|seat|crown-victoria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28141" CreationDate="2016-04-12T14:51:34.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume it's a calculated estimate, based on an &quot;average&quot; wear rate for the compound used - I'd expect that they would run the tyre in controlled conditions for a certain mileage, measure the wear, and extrapolate out to give a full wear life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all these things, the controlled conditions of the test means it's unlikely that many people would achieve it in real life...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T14:51:34.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28160" CreationDate="2016-04-12T15:29:40.643" Score="7" ViewCount="11902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to see if someone can confirm that changing the oil on my car will not void the warranty (I'm in Canada). Links for proof would be nice or get an idea where to look for such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4841/do-i-need-to-go-to-a-dealer-for-a-simple-maintenance&quot;&gt;This post talks about the United States&lt;/a&gt;, and I assume that it should be the same as in Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done it in the past with our older car, but I started when the warranty had expired. I feel comfortable doing it on the new car, however, don't want to run the risk of voiding the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7544" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T21:26:00.943" Title="In Canada, would doing my own oil change void the warranty?" Tags="|oil-change|warranty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28070" CreationDate="2016-04-12T15:38:10.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will most certainly be more expensive if you get a professional to repair this bumper for you. However, it will be a safe investment on your trade-in if it is restored professionally. We cannot discuss price on this platform, but, the cost to do this yourself versus taking it to reputable shop will be substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to do this on your own, it is optimal to remove the bumper from the vehicle. I do not know how far the damage travels, I would suggest repainting the full bumper. Blending is not easily accomplished for someone with no experience. Add incorrect paint to the equation, the wrong amount of coats, etc, it will never look the same as a factory job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to acquire the paint code, which is located in your door jam, or sometimes in the glove box on newer vehicles. Take this to your local body shop supplier and get the matching OEM paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no experience sanding, I would recommend block sanding the bumper instead of using air tools.. You could start with something like 500 grit sandpaper. The areas with the dents or major gouges, cleanup with 80-120 grit.   Once sanded, wipe the bumper down with a cleaning solvent such as Final Wipe. Cleanliness and temperature is key with bodywork. You want to paint in at least 20'C temperatures without high humidity. If it is too cold, the paint will sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply Bondo to the scarred areas. When applying Bondo, or any material for the matter, ensure that your trowel is clean and has no damage. If it does, this will leave streaks, pits, etc, all things you do not want. If there are any streaks you can use a cheese style grader on them once the material has tacked up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand it down once again, this time you could use 220 or something similar. Once it is to your liking you can prime the areas in question, or the whole bumper. Before doing so, make sure you clean the bumper with the correct solvent and then a tack cloth before shooting any material out of your gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once primed, you need to sand again before your paint goes on. Sand it with 500-600 until everything looks dull. Clean it once again and you are ready to shoot your paint. Read the instructions carefully, flash times are different depending on the materials you get. You can ask the dealer how many coats of paint and clear was used on this vehicle. Try to match it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoot your paint and the required amount of coats, and then your clear. It should dry at least for 24 hours. You can look at cutting and buffing the bumper once completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T15:38:10.583" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28141" CreationDate="2016-04-12T16:03:52.527" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shopping for tires, &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of them will have a mileage warranty, normally in the range of 40,000-70,000 miles.  When a mileage number is listed, it is a pro-rated tread life warranty.  When the tires are kept properly inflated, and rotated on a strict, verifiable schedule, they should give you the listed number of miles before the tread reaches the minimum safe tread depth (typically 2/32&quot;.. Which of course is 1/16&quot;, but everyone insists on calling it 2/32&quot; for some unknown reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvBIN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvBIN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Typical tire mileage warranty advertisement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tires fail to last that long, and you can verify the rotations, and the tread wear pattern doesn't show any problems with inflation or alignment, then you will be entitled to a warranty claim based on the difference between miles traveled and the miles promised.  As you can imagine, meeting all the requirements is a challenge, and in the end you're probably only going to get &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; 20% of the purchase price of &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the tires, so most people don't bother unless the tires really under-performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sport or specialty tires rarely have a mileage rating, but all tires should have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UTQG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG)&lt;/a&gt; rating (in the US).  This value is a non-milage based number that ranges in the typical range of 400s-700s.  This is a good number to keep an eye on rather than miles because it attempts to be standardized across brands.  A manufacturer can put whatever mileage warranty they want, but the UTQG must be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3hpN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3hpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UTQG stamp on sidewall of a tire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T17:29:04.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T17:29:04.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28141" CreationDate="2016-04-12T16:20:07.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The testing for tires has components in them which I find nefarious and not realistic.  I've never had a 60,000 mile tire last the anticipated distances.  My driving 'style' is most probably the delta between the testing regiment and what I actually get out of a 60,000 mile tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T16:20:07.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28133" CreationDate="2016-04-12T16:42:14.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmissions are very susceptible to damage from overfill. This occurs because auto transmission fluid expands a lot (well, a lot more than engine oil, for instance). The problem it can create is blowing the seals, like where the torque converter rides. The seal itself is not expensive in and of itself, but &lt;em&gt;getting to the seal&lt;/em&gt; can cost a lot. It would also affect your output shaft seals. The interior seals/and such may suffer damage as well, but hard parts, bands, and clutches should not suffer any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, running around with too much transmission fluid is not a good thing. My suggestion is to get it down to level as soon as possible. As per the 1/2 liter, who knows how much is too much. You may get by with it ... but why chance it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T16:42:14.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28159" CreationDate="2016-04-12T17:11:34.750" Score="7" ViewCount="2178" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why no intercooler when it has a blower?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is compressed air fuel mixtures have an increase in heat and are therefore prone to detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this episode of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Lytyt8Qmo&amp;amp;nohtml5=False&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jay Leno's Garage&lt;/a&gt; at about 11:02 in the video they begin to discuss the new blown H2R.  They mention how it does not have an intercooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do they get away with putting a blower on this motorcycle and not having an intercooler to reduce heat for intake charge?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESObT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESObT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T20:53:51.470" LastActivityDate="2022-07-30T00:55:21.890" Title="The Kawasaki H2R Motorcycle has a blower, why doesn't it have an intercooler?" Tags="|motorcycle|engine-theory|kawasaki|forced-induction|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28133" CreationDate="2016-04-12T17:19:51.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the worst thing that can happen when overfilling an auto transmission is that the fluid in the pan will be whipped into foam by contact with the rotating parts.  It will be evident by checking the fluid while running, it'll look like strawberry milkshake from the myriad air bubbles.  These bubbles will compress and cause problems when the pressurized fluid tries to actuate the various components, similar to air in the brake lines, leading to slippage, excessive wear and improper shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T17:19:51.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:07:21.760" Score="2" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess this would be an ideal place to ask this question! If not, please direct me to a suitable forum. :) So my question is, I'm going to buy my first car and, ever since I was a kid I fell in love with the 1980 Mitsubishi lancer Ex ( Models go as A172A, A173A, A175A ). The A175A is a turbo and that model is not available where I live. We only have A172/3 models. So I'm finally able to buy one of these beauties. I would like to know answers to the following questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. what would it take to maintain such a car. &#xA;2. what should I have to check before buying it&#xA;3. What thoughts you car experts have to say&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please guide me so that I could get my dream car.... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16367" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T18:07:21.760" Title="Opinion on buying a Lancer A17++ vehicle" Tags="|maintenance|old-cars|lancer|rebuild|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-12T20:59:16.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28164" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:32:09.927" Score="10" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an engine/cabin heater installed into my car right before winter, which was great for driving comfort this winter. One of its &quot;side-effect&quot; features is that it charges and keeps your battery at 14.1 volts while it's connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this have any effect on the battery's lifespan or is it just going to hide issues with a failing battery? Does it really influence anything at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14827" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T23:13:32.350" Title="Is there any advantage to keeping the battery &quot;topped up&quot;?" Tags="|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:37:37.380" Score="7" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &quot;sounds like driving on a rumble strip when I hit a bump&quot; problem. I've read through the many threads about it on other sites and I'm trying to narrow down the cause for mine. There are many, many suggested causes and no one seems to come back to declare what it actually was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got under the truck to try to check for play in the front end assemblies and found something weird. It's a seal between the front, passenger side wheel knuckle and the hub and it's just hanging loose. Also when I push on the knuckle, there is a lot of play. Here is a video that can show this better: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGsCZ8gluJI&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGsCZ8gluJI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important thing: I just had the front wheel hub assemblies replaced 3k miles ago. Here's a copy of my receipt for the work: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnatecha.com/_media/20160412010058.png&quot;&gt;http://magnatecha.com/_media/20160412010058.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any thoughts on how to describe and fix the seal issue and if it could be causing the noise when I hit a bump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Info about my truck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1999 Ford F250&#xA;extended cab&#xA;5 spd manual transmission&#xA;Gas V10&#xA;4x4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration and breaking do not cause or stop it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pitch of the noise changes as I slow down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I stop completely, the noise does not occur when I start moving again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16369" LastEditorUserId="16369" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T18:46:18.163" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T02:39:19.340" Title="Rumble strip noise on 1999 F250" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28720" CreationDate="2016-04-12T19:03:15.710" Score="11" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I bought a modified camshaft for his ninja 300/EX 300.&#xA;After installing and checking/adjusting valve clearance everything seemed ok.&#xA;After a few laps on our local track the bike started making a noise similar to when the valves are a bit lose, so we went back and opened her up.&#xA;Measured everything and everything is good so it's not the valves, closed her and there was no noise again.&#xA;After an other run on the track the noise came back. &#xA;So it seems like something that occurs when the engine is hot &#xA;My theories are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive chain too tight (I observed this but do not know what the correct tension is) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixture of hot engine and poor lubrication when hot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend already ordered a manual chain tensioner to see if it helps, so I will come back and update the thread if something changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick update, the manual timing chain tensioner should be coming in on Monday so we will be installing it Monday night and checking again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We put the manual tensioner in, and until now that seemed to be the problem, we still have to test this and make sure it doesn't happen after some laps on the track. But we let the bike run for a few minutes and it was all Ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a full race weekend and a full track day the bike is great and no further weird noises where found, so &lt;strong&gt;it was definitely the chain tensioner&lt;/strong&gt;. Seems like after modifying the camshaft it puts more stress on the chain and the stock tensioner is not good enough. Thanks to all for pointing us in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHPtg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHPtg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Manual chain tensioner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14852" LastEditorUserId="14852" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T13:44:27.477" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:44:27.477" Title="&quot;Valve like&quot; noise after modifying camshaft ninja 300" Tags="|motorcycle|valve|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28087" CreationDate="2016-04-12T19:14:26.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a stuck or faulty heater circuit valve. There's a pipeline from the engine coolant system that goes up to a heat exchanger in the air conditioning duct. There's a valve that regulates how much hot coolant flows in this circuit, and if that valve sticks open or its actuating linkage is broken, the system will be on hot, hot or hot - No matter what you do with the controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T19:14:26.863" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28087" CreationDate="2016-04-12T19:50:09.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This feels like a broken blend door. A blend door controls how much air is allowed to flow past the heater core, or past the a/c evaporator. A broken door means that air physically stuck going past the heater core, thereby heating it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, those doors live inside of the heater box, which usually requires you to rip apart the dash (and then remove the box and take it apart), which requires discharging and then disconnecting the A/C lines. Quite a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T19:50:09.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28098" CreationDate="2016-04-12T19:53:38.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that has not been mentioned here is not only the density but also how efficient the combustion engine is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance--why do we not use electric heaters for entire homes?  Because it's 4 to 10 times as expensive as using some form of gas.&#xA;Electricity is 'cheap' for appliances like a computer--but it's very inefficient in terms of cost when it comes to cooling/heating.  Hence why we usually only use electricity to cool, since combustion doesn't exactly cool off things :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part the main driver of why we use a certain type of energy source for any application is it's a) cheap based on cost + efficiency of engine involved b) convenient and safe given the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's really important to consider the engine.  Efficiency is a measure of say you put in 1.00 units of fuel in, and you get only .80 or so units of work worth of that fuel out of the engine.  And nobody's really come up with anything that beats the combustion engine for small-scale applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T19:53:38.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28150" CreationDate="2016-04-12T20:52:05.103" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17490/675&quot;&gt;So why are intercoolers used?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the air through a supercharger is going to make it hot and detonation-prone. The primary benefit of an intercooler is that it reduces the temperature of the boosted intake air. This helps keep &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/22374/675&quot;&gt;detonation&lt;/a&gt; in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra density is an added bonus because you can squeeze in more air to make Moar Power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Does this mean Kawasaki defied physics with this bike?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. They're just using other means to ensure that the risk of detonation is mitigated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kawasaki.com/press/download/2015-kawasaki-ninja-h2-built-beyond-belief&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the press release&lt;/a&gt; which explains what they've done with the H2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;design the engine with a moderate compression ratio&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.5:1 is conservative, even for a forced-induction engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since auto-ignition temperature increases as pressures decrease, Kawasaki are designing the engine to be such that the auto-ignition temperatures are far away from the engine's regular operating range.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;rely on the fuel for charge-cooling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaporative cooling isn't new. It's useful to have liquid fuel absorb some of the heat in order to turn into fuel vapor. Given the elevated temperatures expected after running the air through the supercharger, there will be plenty of heat to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vaporized fuel which is ready for combustion, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooler air-fuel charge temperatures, which helps the engine operate away from the detonation-prone region&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;keep the engine cool&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea here is to keep engine temperatures down. A liquid-cooled oil-cooler and high-cooling-capacity radiator help in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's the benefit of avoiding an intercooler here?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kawasaki may have gone down this road for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight savings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;space savings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost reduction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two are mentioned in the press release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is implied: no intercooler → no need to design → no need to buy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T20:52:05.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28145" CreationDate="2016-04-12T21:26:00.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could call your dealership and ask them. They may try to talk you out of it and get you to come in, don't get suck into that. I have warranty at a Subaru dealership here and they said it's all good if I do my own oil changes, but I have to keep the receipts/records of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case something does go wrong with your motor, at least you will have proof of all your oil changes. Certain dealerships may have different policies though so it wouldn't hurt calling them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10702" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T21:26:00.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T22:00:12.627" Score="9" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Pontiac G5 with a 5-speed manual (Getrag F23 if you're curious) and about 145k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem has been ongoing for a couple years now but is progressively getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I shift into first while stopped, like at a traffic signal or stop sign, the gearbox will make a horrible grinding noise. About 50% of the time I encounter the grinding, the car's electronics also freak out - the speedometer shoots up to 70mph or so (mind you, I'm stopped), the stereo will momentarily become louder, and the engine speed will drop then go back to idle. In rare occasions, the car will stall when this happens, though it doesn't lurch forward like it would if I hadn't let off the clutch properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a video I captured with my dashcam of it happening:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7-3PYX9f66U&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/7-3PYX9f66U&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can clearly hear the grinding, followed by me having to start the car after it stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried researching this online but have not have not found any solutions. I have also ensured that I am fully depressing the clutch and waiting a couple seconds after doing so to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not occur in any other gear, especially while moving (though I have experienced the electrical phenomenon a couple times when shifting into reverse). The clutch and throwout bearing were both replaced about 18k miles ago, but the problem occurred before then and persisted afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16377" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:26:33.173" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T15:55:20.750" Title="Pontiac G5 transmission sometimes grinds when shifting into first while stopped, occasionally stalls car" Tags="|pontiac|shifting|gears|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T22:33:05.883" Score="8" ViewCount="12522" Body="&lt;p&gt;The little ball that's attached to the fuel gauge sender in my car has a hole in it meaning that the fuel gauge isn't working. It is not possible to buy a replacement float - the whole sender unit must be purchased, which is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would something like a fishing float or cork or even a table tennis ball survive being inside a fuel tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T22:38:05.800" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T18:27:13.523" Title="Is there something I can use to replace a fuel gauge sender float?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17808" CreationDate="2016-04-12T22:50:52.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paulster2 is right, varying the injection timing with respect to the engine crank angle timing is the main way to control the combustion process in a diesel engine. In a conventional gasoline engine (PFI or SIDI) fuel and air are largely pre-mixed before the spark event (which controls the start of the combustion process) which then leads to a fast propagating flame front that consumes the compressed fuel/air mixture in its path, even for SIDI the fuel injection timing is usually very early with respect to the engine top dead center (TDC). All these would result in a relatively quicker combustion process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In diesel engines, fuel is injected into hot air (the result of compression) near the TDC, which would take awhile (ignition delay) before the fuel-air mixture auto-ignites. Until this point, the fuel injection is still happening (for conventional diesel combustion) which then leads to a diesel-engine-specific combustion model: mixing controlled combustion. In this model, the rate of combustion is determined by the rate of fuel/air mixing. The unique model of diesel combustion basically determined that the process of combustion has included mixing and combustion, unlike gasoline engines which allocates the mixing process in the intake or compression stroke, leading to an overall faster process. Other factors also contributes like the heavier build of diesel engine (larger momentum), higher compression ratio (longer stroke). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the diesel engine just cannot/does not require high rev to obtain sufficient torque/power output.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16378" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T03:31:43.703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T03:31:43.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28153" CreationDate="2016-04-12T23:13:32.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it is not overcharging your battery, it will increase the useful life of the battery. The reason behind this is, as a battery sits, it loses power. Some of the electrolysis which goes on to make a battery work, also breaks down the battery. During this period, the battery goes through a sulfating period, where sulfur crystals grow on the lead plates. This only happens during discharge. The better charge which is on the battery, the less sulfation occurs. As your charger is keeping the battery topped off, it is also slowing the sulfation condition, which prolongs the life. Please realize a battery is not going to last forever, but a well maintained battery is going to last much longer than a battery which just sits. Maintaining the battery in this sense helps keep the battery in good shape, which is never a bad thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T23:13:32.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28169" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:24:06.457" Score="6" ViewCount="2947" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 'new' ('07) Cobalt has a digital temp readout.  Temperature varies substantially, depending on driving conditions - I've seen it as high as 210(F) on city streets, on a not-very-warm day.  Our old Cavalier, and every other car I've owned, just went to 195(F) and stayed there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was that the fan wasn't coming on.  But, googling, I get the idea that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/problems-service/42818-cooling-fan-not-working-ac.html&quot;&gt;the fan doesn't even start until 223F&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is my question: just to be sure we're not frying the engine ... is that really true?  And, not that I can do anything about it, but are they sure it's a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T15:27:00.293" Title="Engine temperature range?" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|temperature|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28166" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:35:32.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what temperature the thermostat is designed to regulate the coolant at, which usually depends on what pressure the cooling system is designed to operate at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water boils at 212 deg F at atmospheric pressure but will boil at higher temperatures under pressure. This is why it can make sense for the fan to turn on at 223 deg F; the coolant would still be liquid at that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:35:32.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28120" CreationDate="2016-04-13T05:30:55.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a drag in the front end accessory drive (FEAD) system.  Generally screeching noises occur when the FEAD belt slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Could be a dirty or worn belt.  You said the car has 97K miles on it, you said &quot;The belts look pretty new, no cracking.&quot;  Is that a new belt or is that the original belt with 97K miles on it?  If the belt is dirty or worn, it will slip when cold (or when wet, like during a rainstorm).  After it slips for awhile, the belt gets hot, and when its hot it gets softer and doesn't slip anymore.  The thing to do is to remove the belt, turn in inside out and inspect everything for cleanliness, embedded metal chips, micro-cracks and embedded oil.  Clean the belt, and re-install it.  Its pretty easy to remove, you may need a breaker bar to back off the spring on the tensioner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--It could be an unusually large load at startup.  This could be the A/C compressor.  The way to tell if the compressor is engaged is to take a flashlite, focus it on the front plate of the compressor and see it it spins when the engine is running.  That plate should have an air gap between it and the pulley. Measure the gap with feeler gauges (or sheets of paper) when the ENGINE IS OFF.  If that air gap is too small, the plate will drag on the pulley and cause a screech noise.  If the air gap is too big and the compressor clutch magnet is engaged, the plate will slip, also causing a screech noise. The test for A/C is not to sit in the drivers seat, its to stand to the side of the engine compartment with a flashlite carefully looking at the A/C clutch drive plate at the front of engine (and yes that test is run in park, engine running.. BE SAFE, don't put your hands or body anywhere near that running belt or cooling fan.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--It could be a large startup load to the alternator.  How are the batteries in this car doing?  If the batteries are nearly dead, the alternator will be pumping lots of power to recharge them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--It could be a large startup load to the water pump.  When you have removed the belt for cleaning (engine off!), I'd spin the water pump by hand see if the pulley feels firm, no wobble, and just a small load during hand spin.  If something feels amiss, that could be an issue (wobble = loose bearings... excess play = impeller hitting the block, etc...)  (Note: I doubt its this, but you should check...  generally if a water pump goes bad, the noise doesn't get better after a few minutes... it just stays consistent...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--finally, it could be bad bearings on one of the pulleys.. while the belt is removed (engine off), spin all the pulleys by hand, looking for any unusual free play or pulley/ bearing drag (particularly the idler pulley and the A/C compressor pulley.. with the A/C disengaged, the pulley should spin freely without wobble.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suggestion: the purchase of a $30 USD Chilton / Haynes paper manual might be a good investment in the car.  It will definitely show you how to remove and re-install the FEAD belt.  Removal of the belt should be VERY easy to do.  Use of the manual will help you reduce the cost of future expensive repairs if you are remotely do-it-yourself inclined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T05:30:55.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28166" CreationDate="2016-04-13T05:44:51.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you've got a 13 psi radiator / cooling system cap.  The 13 PSI number is pretty standard for GM cars.  At that pressure, water doesn't boil (from liquid to vapor) until 245 deg F or so.  What you are seeing is totally normal. The manufacturer uses those pressures to improve radiator vehicle cooling performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If while driving on a hot day the gauge never gets above 212 Deg F, that would be a big problem (indicating the radiator cap wasn't controlling pressure correctly.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess the range of your temp would be between 195 F and  235 deg F or so during normal operations.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one suggestion... for a good investment in your vehicle, consider a Chilton / Haynes $30 paper repair manual.  This stuff will be explained in there, and help you maintain your car as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T06:40:11.653" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T06:40:11.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28120" CreationDate="2016-04-13T06:11:50.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;QUICK quick non-professional way to help distinguish the problem. Belt spray ! if you use Belt spray and it does not help. Look deeper. If it does stop . Replace the belts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16384" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T06:11:50.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28166" CreationDate="2016-04-13T06:29:12.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thermostat opens at 180 degrees F, this sets the lower limit. The fans come on in low speed mode at 223 degrees F. The fans come on in high speed mode at 230 degrees F. So temperature can and will vary between these values.  In cool weather when driving at higher speeds the temperature should be in the lower end of the range. On hot days with the A/C on at idle it might move toward the upper, high speed fan, range. If it consistently runs in the upper end of the range testing may be needed. If it drops below 180 replace the thermostat and retest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In recent designs there has been a move toward higher maximum temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T06:29:12.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28143" CreationDate="2016-04-13T09:31:18.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's not quite at the correct angle, so as you try to pull out the belt, you're not pulling it square, which is causing the pretensioner to latch and stop you pulling it at all - IIRC it doesn't need to be far off square for this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T09:31:18.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:26:51.743" Score="5" ViewCount="2518" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so the car is a Nissan 200SX S15 and as i'm relatively new to the &#xA;manual transmission I wanted to practice hill starting (which is where I screwed&#xA;up). I pretty much let go of the clutch way too quick and it immediately stalled the car and shut it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I got it up over the hill the second time the car and gear knob started to shake and i felt the car was making less power and couldn't reach higher rpms even at low gear. As i parked the car the exhaust smelt like fuel. So i'd like to know what happened and how I can fix it if possible. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16389" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:27:43.083" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:27:43.083" Title="Car is shaking, feels like the car doesn't have as much power, gear knob also shaking and exhaust smells of fuel (and was louder than usual)" Tags="|engine|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:32:14.137" Score="7" ViewCount="21974" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I take off the gas cap, there is noise from the tank like pressure is released every time.  Is this supposed to happen?  Would this also affect the gas&#xA;gauge reading full all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T12:54:43.440" Title="is there always pressure when taking off the gas cap? Does it relate to a full reading on gas guage?" Tags="|fuel-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:39:25.530" Score="7" ViewCount="3815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Honda Concerto 1.5l gasoline car, fuel injected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold there are no accleration problems.  But once it warms up it stutters if I step hard on the gas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it does this is only stutters until it reaches a certain RPM (around 2500-3000), then it abruptly stops stuttering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuttering happens only when the car is moving.  It does not happen when the car is parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not stutter if I accelerate slowly, but over time it's been getting worse.  It's getting harder and hard to climb a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuttering is even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stuttering happens in all speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time X was repaced: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plugs: 2 years (20000km) ago, and the old plugs looked fine. Current plugs look good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wires: never&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cap: five years ago, it had a crack in it which led to starting problems when it was humid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wires: never, but I did the check-the-wire-is-sparking test when I was troubleshooting the problem  that led to the cap replacement and the wires behaved normally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rotor: never&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil: never&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emissions testing (in France, which is C02 at least): recently passed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O2 sensor, recently replaced.  I was getting a vague code and the mechanic's guide's troubleshooting said to try replacing the O2 sensor.  This made the codes go away and abated the problem somewhat, but not entirely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filter, replaced one year ago.  Previous filter did not seem particularly dirty and it was there for several years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List item&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13611" LastEditorUserId="13611" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:42:50.720" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T20:17:59.577" Title="Warm fuel injected engine stutters when accelerating" Tags="|engine|honda|fuel-injection|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28175" CreationDate="2016-04-13T12:53:22.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first part of your question has already been asked here - &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21469/why-is-there-a-hissing-noise-when-i-open-my-petrol-cap/21470#21470&quot;&gt;Why is there a hissing noise when I open my petrol cap?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal for a fuel tank to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not cause your fuel gauge to show full all the time.  Your fuel level sensor is probably faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T12:53:22.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28175" CreationDate="2016-04-13T12:54:43.440" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gas gauge measures the level in the tank by a float lever, not by pressure. So this doesn't affect your gas gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overpressure in your tank is completely normal. Gas has a relatively high vapor pressure, which means it tends to vaporize easily and even builds up a pressure when enclosed in a tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars have to avoid the emission of fuel vapor into the environment. They allow some overpressure in the tank which also reduces the rate of evaporation. If the pressure is too high, it is released through a active carbon filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T12:54:43.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27503" CreationDate="2016-04-13T14:04:25.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to buy a new fuel filter, and measure after the old filter, and before and after the new filter.  I let it idle two minutes before taking each reading.  After the old filter, which had been in there for ages, it read 35 psi.  Before and after the new filter were both also 35 psi, although the needle on the prefilter reading was jittering a little bit.  I think when I installed the new filter a little bit of filter material might have gotten blown out and stuck in the fuel regulator or return line ( or something ) cause I was getting 43 psi for a little while right after installing the new filter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, this seems to validate what JPhil1618 and X-tech2 were saying, that there should be zero measurable pressure drop across the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this doesn't answer the general question, it does give one point of empirical data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T14:04:25.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28203" CreationDate="2016-04-13T14:06:18.213" Score="2" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I have noticed, just after switching on the A/c, I smell some sort of a vinegar/mayonnaise mixed smell for about 5 mins, post which it disappears automatically.What could be the possible cause, is it something to do with the cabin air filters? Few friends suggested to check the A/c water drain system, is it got to do with water not coming out during A/c operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion would be of great help. Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:13:40.943" Title="Mazda 3, temporary acidic vinegar/mayonnaise smell" Tags="|ac|smell|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28186" CreationDate="2016-04-13T14:23:24.707" Score="6" ViewCount="5085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a C1500 (2wd, 1/2 ton frame) 1999 Suburban with 4 in spindles installed, but now the camber is much to negative and it's going to cause wear on my tires, and I can't seem to adjust the camber on this car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the recommended way to correct the camber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T00:21:04.900" Title="How to Adjust Camber on a 1999 Chevy Suburban" Tags="|chevrolet|suburban|lift-kit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T15:23:16.910" Score="3" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have snow tires/alloy rims for our 2013 Toyota Highlander. We're thinking of upgrading to the 2016 XLE Highlander and am wondering if we can use the same snow tires/wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4127" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T18:39:32.403" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T18:33:11.513" Title="2013 Toyota Highlander Snow Tires/wheels work on 2016 XLE?" Tags="|toyota|tires|highlander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31670" CreationDate="2016-04-13T17:07:55.860" Score="5" ViewCount="2014" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car ac works very fine in normal conditions. But when I drive it for awhile longer, and often at high speed, it stops cooling. I can still hear the fan sound loud and clear but air flow decreases a lot even at full speed of blower.&#xA;My car is Chevrolet beat diesel 2011 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T17:38:25.790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T08:14:30.473" Title="AC Cooling stops at high speed" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|cooling-system|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T19:10:29.230" Score="10" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;My coolant tank is filled up to the correct level before driving off but I've taken a half an hour drive and it is very low and warning light comes on. Once stopped it cools down and the level rises. I've had it checked and theres no leak. Any ideas why it goes low very quickly and how I can sort this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Anthony &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16399" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T19:37:40.807" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:40:32.160" Title="Coolant expansion tank issue" Tags="|vw|cooling-system|golf|coolant-reservoir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28182" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:19:07.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the upper control arms are two eccentric bolts for adjusting caster and camber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U2sSb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U2sSb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image the knockouts for camber/caster adjustment haven't been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw2ER.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw2ER.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would need to be either cut out or use a special tool made by OTC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wx4AO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wx4AO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a camber gauge and plates or an alignment machine to set camber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the camber on the bolts are maxed you can use offset balljoints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y41QF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y41QF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T00:21:04.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T00:21:04.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28206" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:32:13.630" Score="10" ViewCount="9485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila steering wheel shakes and the car vibrates from 65-80mph, and I think it's because my wheels aren't balanced as I have had new tyres, tracking and wheel balancing about two months ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on the motorway today, and the car shakes and vibrates really badly at high speeds. I am convinced the garage didn't balance the wheels as they gave me a tracking printout, which shows the tracking is fine. I cannot take it back to the garage as I do not trust them after this is happening. I have not been doing any excessive driving, and my tyres were GoodYear Duragrips, which weren't exactly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't afford to go to a garage as the original one charged me £60 extra for wheel balancing and tracking (or wheel alignment), on top of the tyre price, as it doesn't come as standard when fitting new tyres - they also charged me £10 for 2 plastic valve caps, so go figure - I do not want to have to shell out another £60 for this repair. I need my car at the moment for work and things, so I cannot really go without my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I balance my wheels at home? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T20:52:44.830" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T06:57:34.737" Title="Can I balance my wheels at home?" Tags="|wheels|alignment|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28189" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:32:46.963" Score="47" ViewCount="11928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every year in Arizona there are monsoon storms and somebody inevitably get's killed in a car that is sinking in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the primary issue is getting free from the vehicle.  After that, there's an entire set of other issues.  Aside from that, how can I free myself from a sinking vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there anything I can do that's pro-active in case it happens?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the problems that need to be solved quickly in order to be successful in extricating myself from a car that is stuck in water and rapidly sinking?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T05:49:04.940" Title="How do I save myself from a sinking vehicle?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:41:17.350" Score="46" Body="&lt;h2&gt;If you can open the door, do it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Then unbuckle, and bail out.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If your car has sunroof and it works, open it and exit from it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your car electrics need to be functioning for this to work though. On some cars like VW's you can pop off an inner roof panel to reveal a hand crank to open the sunroof.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Detach the headrest, use it to shatter the window glass¹&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you can't roll down the windows&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take headrest off the back of the seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push one of the pegs from the headrest attachment in between the window and door card, just where the seal is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jam it down in there a few inches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the headrest towards you to shatter the glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear away shattered glass remnants and exit from window&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tZTa8Nh0VlE&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrating how to shatter the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is one very good reason for manufacturers to keep car seat headrests detachable.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is to wedge the peg into the gap between the door card and the window and use a lever action to shatter the glass. Hitting it isn't as reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps someone. Maybe even save a life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:39:30.333" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:39:30.333" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28190" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:42:11.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A five-door version, called Sportback, was launched in November 2011, with sales starting in export markets during Spring 2012&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:18:47.203" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:18:47.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28191" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:42:11.143" Score="0" Body="The Audi A1 is a supermini launched by Audi in 2010" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:04:03.830" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:04:03.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28192" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:48:22.847" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T20:48:22.847" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:48:22.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28193" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:48:22.847" Score="0" Body="The amount of distance a car has travelled. Use this tag when distance travelled is core to the question." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:05:53.573" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:05:53.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28194" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:49:57.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car isn't receiving proper or &quot;rational&quot; signal from the Vehicle Speed Sensor. The speedo may not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:19:15.177" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:19:15.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28195" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:49:57.833" Score="0" Body="Fault code for Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:07:00.797" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:07:00.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28196" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:51:01.427" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T20:51:01.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:51:01.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28197" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:51:01.427" Score="0" Body="The pressure of fuel supplied to the fuel injectors." OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:19:04.533" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:19:04.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28198" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:52:16.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T20:52:16.207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:52:16.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28199" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:52:16.207" Score="0" Body="The Chevrolet Apache model is a truck which was released in 1958" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T22:18:54.143" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T22:18:54.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:53:16.730" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends how proactive you want to be. A really sensible preparation is to have a window shattering tool in your glove box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you have &quot;finished&quot; ending up in the water, get your seatbelt off and retrieve that tool, and pop your side window. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really want to exit the vehicle before it takes on enough water to sink - and firstly get onto the roof, as you can use it as a platform to jump towards whatever land is nearest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:53:16.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28187" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:55:28.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you need a machine to balance wheels. If a wheel weight is off even a fraction of an inch it can throw off wheel balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is rotate the tires and see if your problem moves to the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T20:55:28.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:55:38.100" Score="9" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Freestar with 240000 kilometers on it. I have had problem with the engine surging at about 1100 rpm or high idle. No check engine code is logged, I put it on a Ford computer and there were no results. After I cleaned the MAFS and IAC valve the vehicle ran good for a week or two. I found a loose wire on the IAC valve and fixed that, the engine ran well again for a while but then the IAC Valve would start cycling when the engine was hot. I thought I had it so I changed the IAC valve. Started the car, idles perfectly and revs up but as soon as I put it in gear the IAC valve starts to cycle much worse than the old one so the valve itself is working fine and I don't think that is the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know which sensors are feeding the computer so that it is sending a message to the IAC to make it cycle like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16400" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T21:07:56.817" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T21:07:56.817" Title="IAC valve cycling eratically" Tags="|troubleshooting|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28181" CreationDate="2016-04-13T21:13:40.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have mold in the A/C system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, do the following;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the cabin air filters. Buy new ones - they're pretty cheap. Even if you don't want to buy new ones, however, still remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open all the car windows. Turn the engine on, and put your A/C on at full speed, with fresh air selected (not recirculation)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a can of Lysol or Ozium. Spray it into the passenger air intake (the grill part at the rear of the hood, before the windscreen). Spray both sides, and use the entire can.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leave the engine running for about 20 minutes, with the windows down. Consider leaving the windows down overnight, if the car is in a garage. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your cabin filters back in (preferably new).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should sort it, but if you're in a humid area, you may need to do this every other month or so, as those bacteria just keep coming back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:13:40.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-13T21:19:00.253" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking from @roryalsop's response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once free of the vehicle, especially in a flash flood, a flotation device can be a real life saver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many vehicles have rear seats that you can pull out very quickly that are made of styrofoam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, a head rest could prove to be enough floatation to eas3 the burden of staying afloat or getting ashore for the physically challenged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ultimately two issues here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;getting free of the vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;getting to land&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both goals should be thought of in advance to ensure a positive outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T05:49:04.940" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T05:49:04.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-13T21:19:44.697" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get an emergency escape tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For being proactive, the best option is a emergency glass breaking device with a seatbelt cutter like this model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Click image to enlarge)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laZKg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/laZKg.jpg&quot; width=&quot;190&quot; height=&quot;150&quot; alt=&quot;IMG: seatbelt cutter&quot; title=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mythbusters have done two episodes on escaping a vehicle in water, and in the second episode, one of the camera men had to have his belt cut off him because he became suck when the car flipped and was not able to release the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emergency hammer should be secured in a location that you can reach while the seatbelt is tight.  Also note that the hammer can't be used on the windshield.  Only the side windows and possibly the rear window will break.  If your windows are tinted it might make getting through the broken window harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't Panic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have time to think.  The car will not sink immediately, but you do need to act quickly.  Also as shown on Mythbusters, the car's electrical system will not immediately quit working.  Try to roll down the windows and unlock the doors.  That might just work.  Get out of your seatbelt and be ready for the car to roll as it sinks.  If you have time, try to control your breathing and take a deep breath before you get out or the remaining air leaks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equalize pressure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been tested over and over - you can't open the doors until the car is filled with water and the pressure equalizes.  If you can't break the window, stay calm and wait to open the door.  Be prepared to try another door because the impact of the crash may have bent the body of the car making some doors impossible to open.  Again, expect this and don't panic.  Try the other doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="11865" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T09:29:36.753" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T09:29:36.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28187" CreationDate="2016-04-13T21:35:41.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One &quot;at home&quot; option is to use a manual wheel balancer like this model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCR9A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCR9A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are normally used for people that want to balance their own trailer tires or for off-road vehicles, but in many cases you can do a good enough job to balance a car tire with one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, once you pay $70-$90 USD for the device and buy a set of wheel weights and take the time to remove the wheel, balance it and reinstall it on the car, you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; have to want to do it yourself for this to make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire shop should re-balance the tire if it hasn't been long since the tires were purchased.  Aside from purposely taking off a wheel weight, there's nothing you can do to make the tire unbalanced. It almost has to be the shop's fault for not balancing it correctly, or not installing the weight properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:35:41.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2016-04-13T23:07:11.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mystery was finally solved after taking in my vehicle due to a check engine light before a smog test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor needed to be replaced as they were giving faulty readings which caused high idling on top of the cold start problems. I did clean the mass airflow sensor, but apparently this wasn't good enough since it was faulty. Thanks for all your guys help - I'm glad it wasnt the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Turns out that the problem is still happening even after replacing both the mass airflow and throttle sensors. The issues were just exacerbated by the fact that not enough oxygen was getting into the mix. My mechanic and I are very confident that the issue is the fuel pump, whether it due to be the check valve or some other aspect is unsure. I'm going to ride it out until its a real problem, the issue hasn't been getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14054" LastEditorUserId="14054" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T02:57:42.403" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T02:57:42.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:19:33.173" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the car goes into water, the best thing you can do for yourself is to &lt;em&gt;stay calm&lt;/em&gt;. Your instinct is for flight, obviously, but getting yourself worked up is not going to do you any good. You have to think clearly. Going into the deep-end (sorry, had to) will most likely cause your demise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proactively, you need to know your car. It's strange, but even when submerged in water, the electrics will still have a chance to work. They won't short out automatically, so use them to roll the window down ... or at least try. You aren't hurting anything by doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you'll most likely need to bust a window out. Don't even try to bust the front window out (at least for US cars), as this is laminated glass (glass/laminate/glass), which is very tough stuff. You'll wear yourself out in most cases before you'll break it out. The side windows are going to be your best bet, but you must get a stress riser formed, or you'll not get anywhere. Someone else mentioned using a headrest post ... this is an awesome idea, but you still have to hit the window hard enough for it to shatter. The back window is safety glass as well, but it is going to be much harder to get to than will the side windows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of the back window, if you can get there on a car with a hatch, you can most likely get it to pop. The back end of the vehicle is usually the last to go down, as the engine will tip it forward. If you can pop the back hatch through the use of a manual popping mechanism, this will lead you to safety as well. It will also ensure the car doesn't take you down with it as you'll be escaping the back as it's going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T18:03:36.727" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:03:36.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:54:46.213" Score="6" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently got me a new scooter, Honda Forza if that matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the grips are made from some unfortunate material and after a short ride the palms get sweaty and the grips becoming slippery after even a short ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the handles are quite thin by themselves and it's gets harder to use the throttle. I tried to wipe them off with alcohol, hoping it's some manufacturing residue but that did not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess replacing the grips could fix it, but after checking out on the internet I think this is too much hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't really want to mess with it, is there a simple solution like sandpaper them or something? Apart from gloves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16407" LastEditorUserId="16407" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:07:12.037" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T04:18:55.730" Title="Slippery handlebar grip handles" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|scooter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28211" CreationDate="2016-04-14T01:42:50.540" Score="7" ViewCount="3412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car comes in with a P1390 Cam/Crank Correlation code and note about adding coolant recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Neon 2.0 doesn't have timing marks on the front cover. You guess at cylinder 1 TDC using a rod through the spark plug hole. Then look through a small hole to line up the marks on the camshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to take a few minutes and scope the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I pull connector 1 on the PCM. I'm greeted with what looks like coolant in the plug cavity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0DCY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0DCY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not good, at least the PCM didn't short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the cam crank correlation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUIVp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUIVp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;It looks... OK? No signal dropouts or weird glitches.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Fred Wilson. Cam signal is shifted to the right and cam gear was off one tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect the cam signal (green) to be shifted more to the right or left if it were off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble finding a known good pattern to compare to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide a known good cam/crank correlation pattern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pattern is good and effectively rules out timing, what are some other causes of a P1390 code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant in the PCM plug cavity could definitely be a contributing factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was doing the correlation I noticed coolant leaking from the timing cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I get confirmation I'll be tearing apart the front of the engine and will be able to confirm the correlation. As well as the source of the leak, most likely a water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tore apart the front of the engine today. Forgot to get a picture of the cam gear, the locator pin was fine and the cam gear was off one tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To bad the front cover is hidden behind the front mount/power steering/tensioner plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HsNqo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HsNqo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbrCX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbrCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRKJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRKJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car now has a new water pump, tensioner belt and cam gear locator pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T00:11:59.643" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T00:11:59.643" Title="2000 Dodge Neon P1390 Cam/Crank Correlation" Tags="|dodge|neon|coolant-leak|cmp-ckp-correlation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28210" CreationDate="2016-04-14T02:38:06.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked a known good waveform (cannot copy here, copyrighted). Yours is shifted just a bit to the right. Around your frame 95 that cam sensor vertical line should exactly bisect the horizontal line on the crank signal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common failure for a small shift is bending of the locator roll pin on the cam pulley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T02:38:06.237" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T03:09:41.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend avoiding places where your vehicle might sink. For example, don't use Apple GPS. Also consider riding a bike. This might make it easier to detect the problem before you have gotten too deep. Next, make sure you drive a vehicle with a sunroof. And finally, always make your friend get out of the car first. That way, if they sink, you can use them as a stepping stone. I know it's morbid, but if you want to survive a zombie apocalypse, you are going to have to improvise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16414" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T03:09:41.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2016-04-14T03:47:47.597" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 04 legacy 2.5 gt 220,000 miles bought it with 30,000 I have driven this car hard never had any engine issues at all didn't replace original clutch until 175,000 just regular maintenance as close as possible to time supposed to be done I love the car I'm absolutely sure it's got another 80,000 in it no leaks at all burns little oil and only problem I've had is burns through breaks front hubs n bearings have had to replace both sides struts n mounts and an issue with cruise control replaced same sensor or something 3 times but I love my suby&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16417" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T03:47:47.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28215" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28216" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" Score="0" Body="The study of how air moves around objects. Usually in reference to minimizing the drag produced on the object in question." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:11:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28209" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:49:27.080" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its really simple. Gloves for both active protection - they stop you getting slippery hands and crashing. And in the end of a crash they stop your hands being smeared on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative grips will also be available such as these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renthal.com/shop/mx-products/grips/mx-enduro-grips/tapered-series-mx&quot;&gt;Renthal grips&lt;/a&gt;, with a coarser grip pattern they should stop being so slippery even with sweaty hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I wouldn't ride without gloves but I live in the UK where it never really gets too hot for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note: I do not endorse the product just showing what is available in terms of better grips than the standard smooth ones.  I don't work for Renthal nor do I specifically endorse them over any other brand. I just did a quick google search for motocross grips.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T08:53:48.030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T08:53:48.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28218" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is tested with an oscilloscope reading of both the camshaft and crankshaft sensor waveforms. This is compared to a known good waveform for a particular engine. These waveforms vary greatly across engine makes and models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28219" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" Score="0" Body="Term reference to the relationship of the engine crankshaft to the camshaft. Usually in reference to ensuring that the relationship is correct so that the engine valves open at the correct time in the engine rotation. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:54:59.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28220" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28221" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" Score="0" Body="Acronym used to define the crankshaft position sensor." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:56:46.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28222" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:58:53.310" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T04:58:53.310" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T04:58:53.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28223" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T04:58:53.310" Score="0" Body="Acronym used to describe an engine with a camshaft located in the cylinder head. OHC = Overhead Cam" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T13:07:57.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T13:07:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28224" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28225" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" Score="0" Body="Used to describe installing an updated software program in one or more of the onboard computers. The jargon term reflash is also used." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:25:07.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28226" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28227" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" Score="0" Body="Failure code indicating cylinder four misfire." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:26:56.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28228" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28229" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" Score="0" Body="Process for fusing metals." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:28:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28230" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28231" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" Score="0" Body="Metal made by adding small amounts of carbon to iron." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:32:52.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28232" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28233" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" Score="0" Body="Sports car model made by Nissan Motor Company." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:34:20.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28234" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28235" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" Score="0" Body="Acronym used to describe an engine with valves in the cylinder head. Over Head Valve" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:36:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28236" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28237" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" Score="0" Body="Part of an engine that connects the piston to the crankshaft." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:37:33.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28238" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28239" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" Score="0" Body="The opening in the roof of a car. Usually a glass panel that opens by sliding down and back." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:39:53.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28240" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28241" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" Score="0" Body="A model made under the Acura brand name which a name used by the Honda Motor Co for its luxury car division in the United States. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:48:52.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28242" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28243" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" Score="0" Body="A long used model designation of the Porsche company." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:51:08.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28244" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28245" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" Score="0" Body="A transmission fluid used by Chrysler in its newer vehicles." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:56:11.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28246" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:58:34.123" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T05:58:34.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T05:58:34.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28247" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T05:58:34.123" Score="0" Body="Any light that illuminates when a problem is sensed by a vehicle onboard system." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T13:33:30.210" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T13:33:30.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28248" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28249" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" Score="0" Body="Mirrors mounted on the side of a vehicle that allow a view to the rear on one side of the vehicle. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:01:11.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28250" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28251" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" Score="0" Body="Sensor used to indicate to the engine control computer the opening angle of the throttle blade.  The associated acronym is TPS." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:09:13.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28252" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28253" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" Score="0" Body="Suspension part that dampens the vertical motion of the tire, wheel, and hub assembly. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:12:14.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28254" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28255" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" Score="0" Body="A term used to indicate that the engine control computer is currently actively controlling the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T06:17:05.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28187" CreationDate="2016-04-14T09:42:24.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd take it to a different garage if you don't trust the first one - and I wouldn't pay more than ~£5/wheel for balancing - but then I'd also never go to a garage that charged extra for it, the vast majority include it in the cost of fitting the new tyres. (I also refuse to go anywhere near one garage local to me after they charged me £2 extra for Nitrogen filling after I had a puncture repaired - not because of the cost, but because they didn't ask me first)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracking/Alignment is different, £60 sounds about normal for a full 4-wheel alignment, and extortionate if they just did the fronts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T09:42:24.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T09:51:06.330" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible, roll one of the windows down before the electrics fail, then you can get out of it - but beware that the car will fill up and sink quicker with a window open...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, a window-breaking tool is useful if you can't open one - but not kept in the glove compartment, you need it somewhere you can reach it with your seatbelt on, so that if the belt jams, you can use the tool's blade to cut your belt and get free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing such a tool, you could also break the window with your key, or something else with a point that puts a stress fracture into the glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T09:51:06.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28439" CreationDate="2016-04-14T12:13:03.010" Score="4" ViewCount="14210" Body="&lt;p&gt;2009 BMW 328i (N91 Fuel pump) cranks but wont start, what I have checked thus far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed starter fuel inside the throttle body and it starts up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verified proper voltage is being sent to the pump from the pump's control module.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verified that the pump is working (bought and installed a new pump as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be preventing the pump from pumping fuel to the car ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas tank is shaped like a saddle, if something goes bad on the other side, could that stop the distribution of fuel to the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am almost sure that the pump is not pushing fuel to the line that distributes fuel to the car engine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel Pump:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91bED.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91bED.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16423" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T12:14:04.973" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T21:25:28.143" Title="2009 BMW 328i Crank but Won't Start" Tags="|bmw|cranks-wont-run|fuel-pump|318i|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T12:19:29.893" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not have to panic if you can not open or break the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a big breath and when the interior fills up, the pressure difference disappears and you can open the door and swim out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard this as advice for people falling into the Danube but have not tried it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16424" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T12:19:29.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T12:41:01.533" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing a TV show in which two people in full scuba gear were placed in a car which was then pushed into a lake, and tried different ways of escaping. The experiment was repeated multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Takeaways were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once a door is partially below the water line, the pressure difference makes it impossible for a human to open until the interior has filled with water to the same level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes some time for the interior to fill with water, hence you'd have to hold your breath for &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; long if you wanted to wait for that to happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical systems will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; fail immediately as the car hits the water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening a front door turned out to be impossible. In one instance the occupants were able to open a rear door before it got submerged, but one would need to act fast. Windows could still be rolled down (as this doesn't require pushing against the pressure difference), and the same would presumably apply to a sunroof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can open a rear door, do so – but you have only a few seconds to do this. Same probably goes for the hatch of a station wagon, if you can open it from the inside, though this was not tried (the car used was a sedan).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing that, open all windows (and sunroof, if any) as quickly as you can. You'd probably have a few minutes to do that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing the above, breaking a window might work as well. If it's partially below the water line, though, I'd be worried about the risk of injury from shards of glass getting pushed inside by the water entering through the broken window. On the other hand, that might be an acceptable risk when your other option is drowning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15323" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T12:41:01.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:20:49.887" Score="-2" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum &quot;payload&quot; (read: the weight the atv can carry besides itself) of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.razor.com/products/dirt/dirt-quad/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Razor Dirt Quad kids ATV&lt;/a&gt;? The specs say product weight is 89 lbs and something called &quot;Max&quot; is 120 lbs. The question is whether this &quot;Max&quot; is a total limit including product weight or if it is a payload number. In case of total that would leave only some 30 lbs for the kid/payload. While a kid may weight less than 30 lbs I ask myself whether this isn't a bit small number (given the construction of the ATV). But probably isn't, since the electric motor is quite weak... Can anyone confirm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://razor-elektric.cz/image/data/manual/dirtquad_manual_v1_04-11.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ATV's manual&lt;/a&gt; states directly on page #1 &quot;DO NOT EXCEED THE WEIGHT LIMIT OF 120 pounds.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:39:43.400" Title="Razor Dirt Quad kids ATV payload limit" Tags="|atv|weight|payload|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-14T16:35:49.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28263" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:39:43.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The electric, toy quad is made for kids &quot;ages 8+&quot;.  The average weight for an 8 year old is 50 lbs, so the 30lb number is obviously not the rider weight limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty clear that the rider weight limit is 120 lbs.  It's a toy, so you can't expect nice detailed specifications of &quot;payload capacity&quot; or &quot;towing capacity&quot; or anything else that would be standard for a &quot;vehicle&quot;.  I think a number labeled &quot;MAX&quot; is about as much as you could hope for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:39:43.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="61011" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:39:55.637" Score="3" ViewCount="6845" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mini Cooper S (2003)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been noticing recently that it's been taking two attempts to get my car to turn over. I twist the key to the third position and nothing. I then try again and it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, however, it took about 20 attempts. I got out, locked it, unlocked it etc, all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no clicking at the third stage, it's as if the immobiliser is kicking in and stopping the car from turning over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery has been checked (and was fine) and the usual lights etc on the dash are displayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note I have tried both keys that came with the car too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it's either the immobiliser or starter motor? Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2748" LastEditorUserId="2748" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T13:44:58.087" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T15:39:20.787" Title="MINI R53 won't turn over - immobiliser problem?" Tags="|starting|starter|immobilizer|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28296" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:41:11.230" Score="21" ViewCount="2877" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a question that is pretty similar to this one except the existing question satisfies EFI engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6612/does-the-a-gasoline-or-diesel-engine-appy-fuel-at-high-speeds-when-not-pressing/28258?noredirect=1#comment45878_28258&quot;&gt;EFI question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I roll down a hill at a considerable speed I let go of the gas. Say my revs are 3000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While going down the hill my revs will remain at 3000 but I'm confused on whether or not the carburetor  keeps on sending gasoline to the engine cylinders for combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My uninformed guess is that it sends a minimum to avoid the car from slowing down and losing momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T07:43:25.820" Title="Does a carburettor engine apply fuel at high speeds when the pedal is no longer depressed?" Tags="|fuel-system|engine-theory|carburetor|motors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28265" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:47:32.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't get a click at all, then I'd think that the signal isn't getting to the starter motor, so either an immobiliser problem as you suggest, or a problem with the switch as per JPhi's comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get at the starter, you might be able to attach a multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see if it gets any volts - be careful, make sure you don't have any hands/clothing/extremities anywhere near any spinny bits when trying to start it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also test the switch, if you can find a wiring diagram, to see if it is making the correct connections when turned. They can often be a pig to get to though, for security reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, if it is the immobiliser, you'll probably have to take it to a specialist...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:47:32.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28266" CreationDate="2016-04-14T13:53:32.307" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carburettors are very crude in comparison to EFI systems, and so the amount of fuel entering the engine is simply a factor of the amount of air going in, which is controlled by the position of the butterfly (and hence by the throttle position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a completely closed throttle, there will therefore still be some fuel getting in, enough to keep the engine running without any load, as the system has no way of knowing that the car is going at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controlling the air/fuel mixture in a carb is a real 'dark art', and the experts can spend huge amount of time tinkering with tiny adjustments, often filing tiny amounts from the needles to tweak the mixture at a certain range...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:53:32.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:34:52.703" Score="7" ViewCount="2173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the 2 brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the ABS control box. I bled all 4 brakes in the proper order, (RR,LR,RF,LF) but the brakes are minimal and the pedal goes to the floor. The master cylinder is full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I could not get the rear bleeder bolts loose and did not want to twist them off, thus I bled the rear brakes at the brake hose going into the caliper....Is this acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should I have attempted to bleed these lines at the control box?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16430" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T13:52:18.153" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T13:52:18.153" Title="Bleeding Brakes 2002 Bonneville with ABS" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|bonneville|bleeding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28209" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:40:10.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm making my former comment an answer so that I can put pictures to explain better.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, don't mess with the grips. If they work fine with your hands dry then they don't need anything. If they don't work with dry hands, then do something to them, because using gloves shouldn't help much in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, going to the gloves subject. Even if you ride a bike and fall down at &amp;lt;10km/h you can scrape your palms really bad, so a scooter will be way worse. In my opinion you shouldn't even consider riding anything without a basic pair of gloves - because you can choose gloves with &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; discomfort and extra sweating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The palm of your hand is anyway always in contact with the handles, you can't count on that part to cool your hands, so it would be the same thing if you have it covered with something protective and with better grip. For the back there are synthetic materials with huge breathability that won't bring any discomfort, even if you're not moving fast. Get something that has this structure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mtpY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mtpY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I'm not endorsing that company. Any other brand will work the same, as long as it has a hard palm and a breathable mesh back.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, these give you just basic protection in case of a crash, but I think that they are the best compromise for a scooter in warm climates and that basic protection is way better than bare hands and you also get your grip problem fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T14:40:10.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28259" CreationDate="2016-04-14T14:42:20.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with some pictures to try and clear up the function of the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIhG2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIhG2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Return type EFI system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EbVg.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EbVg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Returnless EFI system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both images and a lot of the information comes from here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/returnless_efi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.aa1car.com/library/returnless_efi.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main types of Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems. The return type, and the returnless type. In the return type, excess fuel is pumped to the fuel rail, and intake vacuum is used to regulate the pressure, and excess fuel is returned to the tank. In a returnless system the filter and regulator are often part of the pump assembly and are either inline, or submersed in the fuel. Sounds like yours is submersed in the fuel. The article talks about most modern cars, and your's would be included, are returnless systems. You would need to check the book on yours to find out for sure which your car uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in both systems, the tank is not something in two halves, it's one large tank. There is no movement of fuel from one side of the tank to the other. Fuel tanks on street cars are generally one large tank. There may be systems (like baffles) that help prevent sloshing of the fuel, but there is one fuel pickup near the bottom of the tank, and if it's a return system, a single return. Nothing to move it back and forth across two halves of the tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things that may help you in finding the problem. First is that while research may show the common failures if your testing shows those systems to work well, then your cars fault lies elsewhere. Second, the other big difference between carbureted fuel systems and fuel injected systems is the fuel pressure. An injected car typically runs between 30 to 60 psi, much higher than the 6 to 8 psi for a carbureted car. You need to check the book on your car to see what the normal pressure should be. Your pump may move fuel, but if the pressure is way below where it should be, the car may not start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, don't focus entirely on fuel. If your testing shows that the fuel system is delivering the right pressure, and the injectors are not clogged (which seems likely since they should generally not all fail at once) your problem is not fuel. Check for spark on each cylinder, and see if you are getting any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest using a scanner to see if the ECU is throwing any fault codes. If the check engine light is on, you will certainly find codes when you scan for them. That will also help diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:10:05.847" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:10:05.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:25:19.297" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried getting mode 03 (fault code) for Volkswagen Polo and Toyota Innova. I am unable to find how to decode it. Can someone please help me decode it (the method to decode the hex response)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volvo:  7E8 10 0C 43 05 00 73 26 1A &#xA;        7E8 21 01 03 01 04 01 13 AA (This AA byte at the end is causing the problem to understand how to decode)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Innova: 7E8 06 43 02 06 07 12 64&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T06:19:07.197" Title="Fault code decoding" Tags="|obd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28273" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher Octane numbers ignite at higher temperatures. Engines and fuel control systems are designed for a specific Octane number. These engine manufactures recommended Octane rating should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using fuel with a higher Octane number will not result in better power or fuel mileage in engines that were not designed for that Octane number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28274" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" Score="0" Body="A number relating to the ignition temperature of gasoline in a combustion chamber." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:35:50.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28275" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28276" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" Score="0" Body="An alcohol often used as a gasoline additive. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:38:38.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28277" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28278" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" Score="0" Body="Parts that used to attach the engine and transmission to the frame of a vehicle. Usually made from rubber that acts as a vibration dampener." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:40:52.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:51:05.717" Score="6" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also with regard to my 2002 Bonneville brake bleeding question, I could  not get the rear bleeder bolts loose and did not want to twist them off, thus I bled the rear brakes at the brake hose going into the caliper....Is this acceptable? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16430" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T13:53:18.417" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T13:53:18.417" Title="Bleeding Brakes" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|bonneville|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28259" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:51:42.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after the edits to the original question, the tenor of the question changed, and a new key piece of information has emerged. Spraying starter fluid into the throttle body gets the engine to turn over. So, clearly you have a fuel issue. It's an Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system, and I suspect it's a non-return EFI system. So for the fuel to get from the tank to the cylinder, several things must work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump must pull fuel and get it through the regulator, and the filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The regulator must allow the proper pressure get to the filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The filter must pass the fuel to the fuel rail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The injectors must spray a reasonable enough pattern to get the fuel to ignite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems unlikely that all the injectors failed at once, so start by looking for proper fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Your pump may move fuel, but without the proper pressure the engine may not start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have good pressure in the rail then it is likely the injectors. I suspect you will find that the pressure in the rail is not up to spec. The book on your car will tell you what that pressure should be. The pressure should be very close to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pressure is not what it should be, check your fuel filter. The regulator is probably part of the fuel pump assembly, so that's likely good, which means if pressure is bad at the rail, that the filter is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:51:42.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28279" CreationDate="2016-04-14T15:52:52.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can still have air trapped in the rear caliper/wheel cylinder.  Removing the line could introduce air to the caliper or wheel cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this means you might end up replacing your rear calipers / wheel cylinders also.  It has happened to me a number of times.  Be sure to spray it with some good penetrating oil and use a 6 point socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T15:52:52.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T16:39:47.920" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car will not idle after re-installing stock air box from previous cold air intake. I replaced idle control valve also replaced intake boot as well as valve cover gasket along with spark plugs, BMW 325i 1994.added information, the car starts up but in order for it to keep running the accelerator has to be pushed over and over,the maf sensor was replaced and installed in correct direction,I also tried searching for vacuum leaks but there was no change in rpm,could the hoses to the intake boot be in wrong position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16432" LastEditorUserId="16432" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T14:44:08.607" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T18:53:15.617" Title="after replacing icv,intake boot,valve cover gasket and return to stock air box from CAI,car will not hold idle 325i 1994" Tags="|car|idle|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:24:11.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, stay calm. Try to control your breathing. You may have a few moments to roll your windows down before the electronics fail. If you are in an older vehicle, wind it down. You will not be able to open the door until there is buildup inside the cabin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep an emergency tool within reach and not inside the glovebox. If you do not have one, and for some reason you cannot bring your windows down, you can attempt to smash them with your seat belt buckle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:24:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:37:32.147" Score="4" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. Once in a while the engine will rev and then kick into first gear. If I slowly press down onto gas petal it will not do this. If I start slow no problems, but if I put foot down on pedal hard it does sometimes. Can anyone tell me why this is happening?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16435" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T18:43:05.910" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T02:51:39.200" Title="Transmission slip" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1238" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:50:57.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just resolved a similar problem on '03 Forester 2.0 turbo. Car would not respond for 2 to 3 seconds when the accelerator pedal is pushed. Also, when it finally kicked in it lacked power. I did not take it in until check engine light came on for O2 sensor...p0171... After explaining problem to mech he said it was either the &lt;em&gt;fuel pressure regulator&lt;/em&gt; or the &lt;em&gt;fuel filter&lt;/em&gt;, I took the opportunity to replace spark plugs, air filter, oil, oil filter, and a very dirty fuel filter(which I believe was the culprit in my case), and of course a very expensive O2 sensor. Car drives like new again...response is super! Since the initial problem of slow acceleration did not produce a check engine light I was reluctant to mess with any of the other sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16436" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:50:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:58:39.713" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fascinating to watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3_HEKMgqbE&quot;&gt;this Mythbusters episode&lt;/a&gt;, which takes your question one step farther: the car has turned upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try as he might, Adam can't escape until pressure equalizes. And even then,  he needs to use some of the canned air. This really drives home the point that the window is your first, best way out. Either in the 3-5 seconds before the window is covered, or with the help of a window breaker, you need to get a window open, or things become substantially more grave in very little time. Your seat belt is also a complication, as well as one for anyone else in the car. Toddlers in car seats are a major issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd make my top three concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting my seat belt off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a window open before electronics&#xA;fail. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting passengers out of their car seats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, and only then, can you start fighting the current of water rushing in, in the opposite direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T18:58:39.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28290" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:59:43.280" Score="9" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see this question asked after searching through the tag &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuel-filter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fuel-filter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuel-filter&lt;/a&gt; but I was curious is it ok or would it even work on a Silverado if you remove the fuse for the fuel pump when it is running and let the engine lines run dry before changing the fuel filter?  I'm trying to prevent excess of fuel loss after unscrewing the fuel filter since it is at the lowest point of the fuel line.  I do not want to run the tank dry because I've always been taught that it's bad on your fuel pump to let your gas get below a certain depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T19:18:53.070" Title="Before changing a fuel filter is it ok to let the line run dry?" Tags="|chevrolet|silverado|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28288" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:11:54.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in how to do this. I was just watching an episode of &quot;Tech Garage&quot; and they were talking about this very topic. Their suggested methodology was to pull the fuel pump fuse, and run the engine till it stopped on it's own. You can now change out the fuel filter. You will still get some fuel out of the line, but nothing like having 30-60 psi of fuel spit at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T19:11:54.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28288" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:18:53.070" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While disconnecting the fuel pump relay and running the engine will work, there are other alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can access the Schräder valve, depress it to release the pressurized fuel before disconnecting the fuel lines. This will have the effect of reducing fuel line pressure. It helps to have the vehicle cool down and not running for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a Silverado, but my BMW has a similar arrangement with the fuel filter strapped onto the driver-side underbelly. What I can say is that the amount of fuel that pours out upon disconnecting the fuel line is not that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T19:18:53.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T19:31:57.657" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every year hundreds die in submerged cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Getting out of a sinking car is very difficult. The reason for this is that the car will list to the driver's side due to the weight of the steering column and the driver's weight. That means you will be located on side of the car tilted downward. It also means the driver's side will fill up first with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Don't put too much faith in window breakers. They tend to get lost. I keep a heavy utility knife in the glove compartment. Since I use this knife to open packages all the time, I &lt;strong&gt;KNOW&lt;/strong&gt; it is there and it never gets lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) The buoyancy of the car makes a big difference. If the water is not at window level, break the glass and exit out the passenger window or sun roof. In some situations the car will pivot up like the Titanic because of the weight of the engine. In this case your best move is to go into the back seat and break a rear passenger window, assuming you have a window breaker (like my knife which has a heavy metallic handle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Once water is all around you are in a very dangerous situation. You will not be able to see and will not be able to tell up from down. Also the car may be upside down or at a weird angle, even backwards and upside down. In this situation your best shot is to equalize a rear door but this is highly risky because the door has to &lt;strong&gt;FULLY UNDERWATER FOR 10 SECONDS&lt;/strong&gt; before it equalizes--so that means you are holding your breath for 10 seconds before you can even open the door.. Climb into the back seat, roll down the passenger-side window, grab the rear passenger-side seat belt shoulder harness with the right hand, the door handle with the left hand, and wait for the water to fill over the door completely, then push it open with your feet and exit. Good luck, you'll need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video showing men getting out of a sinking car in a test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fymjbkGSta8&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fymjbkGSta8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically from this video you can see you have about 10 seconds max to get out of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastEditorUserId="10873" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T19:44:34.817" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T19:44:34.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:14:20.377" Score="7" ViewCount="6530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 ford fusion and lately it works fine if I lightly press on the gas. If I press on the gas with full force though it will rev up the RPM's but there will be no power and my car won't speed up. There is no engine light on or any lights on when I look at the dash. It will only speed up if I'm lightly pressing on the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(automatic Transmission)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16439" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T22:30:52.353" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T22:30:52.353" Title="What could cause high RPMs but no power?" Tags="|ford|automatic-transmission|troubleshooting|fusion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28292" CreationDate="2016-04-14T20:24:17.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is capable of breathing mixture and spinning at the higher RPM, it should be producing more power than at lower RPM. Means it's likely getting eaten up somewhere in the drive train before it gets to the wheels, and the most likely candidate for that would be the torque converter as @Zaid suggested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a scanner for your car? Does the '06 Fusion have a sensor for transmission fluid temperature? If it does, see if it's above normal. If so, that is probably you're issue. You can also check the color and smell of the fluid. If it's dark red or black and smells burnt, that's bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T20:24:17.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:09:49.497" Score="4" ViewCount="13731" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 2005 BMW 320D, I recently (200 miles/1 month ago) noticed a rubbing noise coming from the front passenger side wheel. It is only really noticeable on smooth tarmac at slow speeds, but I did notice some slight &quot;rubbing&quot; noise on the motorway also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I jacked up the car and spun the wheel, where I could hear the rubbing at a certain point each time the wheel spun. I could only manage about 2 revolutions of the wheel because of how tight it is at that point.&#xA;I checked the other side and it spins much more freely.&#xA;Then I removed the wheel and rotated the disc by hand and same as above it is tight at one certain point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of what I think is the most logical reason for this given the symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The disc is warped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The caliper &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pads were replaced about 3000 miles ago and look to have plenty left on them. I haven't noticed any judder when braking.&#xA;Nothing has been altered on the car in the lead up to when I noticed this noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone shed some light on the cause of this?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some further info I just thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is noticeable in any direction the wheels are pointing when moving(IE not just when turning left etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are now squealing, but only seems to happen when braking lightly at slow speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at/listening to some youtube videos of wheel bearings gone bad, I'm pretty sure that it's not that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I noticed when reversing the other day without any braking, the brakes(or something?) were squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pad is definitely tight to the disc at one point, maybe for about 1/8th of the circumference of the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16438" LastEditorUserId="16438" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T19:16:53.260" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:57:16.067" Title="Wheel rubbing/tight at one point per wheel revolution" Tags="|brakes|bmw|brake-rotor|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28266" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:28:25.057" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a base level, carburetors meter the amount of fuel they let into the engine by the amount of air that is moving through them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum is created by the piston moving in the engine and creating an open space. As the piston moves down, it creates an empty volume which pulls in air through the only opening it can find, which is the passageway through the carburetor.  So, for example, a 25 cubic inch cylinder is going to try to pull in 25 cubic inches of air in through the carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the throttle plate is partially or fully closed, it's not going to be able to get that much air in since there's a restriction (much like trying to take a full breath of air through a straw).  The more the restriction, the higher the vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the more throttle you give it, the more the throttle plates open, and the more air it can get in, so the less vacuum there is.  Designers quickly realized that the higher the engine vacuum, the less fuel should go into the engine (since more vacuum means less throttle is being applied).  And visa versa the lower the vacuum, the more fuel should go in.  From there, they set up all sorts of metering tools in the carburetor to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that being said, when you let off the gas and coast downhill, the throttle plates are fully closed and your engine has a LOT of vacuum, especially at high RPMs.  Since that's the case, even though the engine is spinning very fast, there's very little air moving through the carburetor since the plates are closed.  In this condition, the carburetor will go into idle mode and release as little fuel into the engine as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue with this is that when you're going downhill in the condition you described, there is a lot more vacuum than there normally would be at idle due to the high RPMs.  At idle, a healthy engine creates around 18 to 20hg of vacuum.  When you're coasting downhill with the throttle closed, it can get as high as 25hg or more.  So, even though the carburetor isn't designed to release a lot of  fuel into the air stream, the extreme vacuum can actually &lt;em&gt;pull&lt;/em&gt; fuel out of places it's not supposed to normally come from under those conditions, which can make the engine run rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the carburetor doesn't care if your engine dies or loses momentum.  It just meters fuel into the air passing through it.  That's all it does and nothing more.  If you're coasting down a hill at 3000 RPMs, your carburetor only meters fuel into the engine because air is passing through it.  The only thing keeping your engine speed or momentum up is the spinning of the tires, the momentum of the vehicle, and gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16442" LastEditorUserId="16442" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T14:51:56.570" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:51:56.570" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28585" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:33:25.587" Score="12" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know narrowbands can go lazy with time, but what about widebands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a sequel to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17437/675&quot;&gt;cold-start misfire mystery&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that we were looking at the wrong PID's for the front O2 sensor voltages, assuming they were narrowbands. Probing the wideband sensor PID's for Bank 1, Sensor 1 and Bank 2, Sensor 1 lambdas yielded a proper signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 2009 Mercedes GLK 280 had an intake leak that was fixed by a mechanic. The LTFT's are now very close to zero (-0.8 %). The STFT's, however, are all over the jungle, cycling between -15 % and +20 % every 15-30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have noticed is that the STFT's are following the wideband lambdas at idle, which cycle very slowly between 0.8 and 1.2 (11.76:1 - 17.64:1 AFR). Post-cat O2 sensor voltages are around 0.75 V, so rich as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I'm seeing this car again is because of a CEL that manifests itself intermittently when coming to a stop at a traffic light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0171&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt;, &lt;kbd&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0174&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/kbd&gt; - System too lean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;My hypothesis&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LTFT's are showing the system is airtight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STFT's are cycling wildly because of the front wideband O2 signals cycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Widebands need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Screenshots&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are the DTC's and freeze frames&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeFbe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeFbe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here are the DTC&amp;#39;s recorded&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qF07U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qF07U.png&quot; alt=&quot;Freeze frame for P0171 - 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wUFe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wUFe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Freeze frame for P0171 - 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STFT's and Wideband lambdas at idle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is before clearing the DTC's, but the behavior here didn't seem to change much after clearing them&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo1V1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo1V1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vehicle speed, wideband lambda bank 1, STFT&amp;#39;s&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWNeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWNeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Both bank&amp;#39;s STFT &amp;amp; Lambda&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is the throttle blip test (if I remember correctly)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the green line because it isn't Vehicle Speed and smoothing was turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ll35g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ll35g.png&quot; alt=&quot;Throttle blip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:52:58.497" Title="Are widebands known to go lazy over time?" Tags="|o2-sensor|dtc|p0171|wideband|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28266" CreationDate="2016-04-14T22:29:09.883" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carburetor Circuits Will Still Pull Fuel from the System&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is running on a carbureted vehicle, off throttle or not, it will consume fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle Settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three basic circuits in a most carburetors that provide fuel to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/tags/engine/info&quot;&gt;ICE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Idle Circuit&lt;/strong&gt; - effects fuel metering at low RPM conditions where the throttle plate is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary or Mid-range Circuit&lt;/strong&gt; - effects fuel from off throttle (throttle plate closed) to wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primary or Main Circuit&lt;/strong&gt; - Feeds and rises in fuel delivery output as the throttle transitions from partially open to wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other circuits include accelerator pump circuits as well as choke circuits that aren't pertinent to this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Operation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are going downhill and in gear your engine pulling air threw it.   Which is it's purpose.  It's simply a big air pump.  Since air is flowing into the system and it is getting pulled through the carburetor with a closed throttle it will be receiving fuel into the system through the idle circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not be consuming the same amount of fuel per RPM that it would receive if the the throttle was wide open but it will still receive fuel, unlike an EFI system that could cut out fuel completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your engine will still consume fuel under the conditions you alliterated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not providing fuel to maintain your downhill speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not providing fuel for the vehicle to maintain momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;IS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; providing fuel because it cannot do anything other than provide fuel at the throttle position that it is at, in this case it's the idle circuit.   So deceleration is done at the idle circuit, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have popping on deceleration it's usually the idle circuit.  I've fixed a lot of gas high speed backfiring and i've always adjusted the air/fuel screw on the idle circuit to get rid of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My 2 cents.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T07:43:25.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28301" CreationDate="2016-04-14T22:36:33.023" Score="9" ViewCount="6498" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive always been taught it was bad on your fuel pump to run your vehicle tank close to dry as it would damage the fuel pump but Ive never seen any validation to support this statement.  So will running a tank dry before fill up damage your fuel pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:13:49.237" Title="Is it bad on your fuel pump to have your tank run low?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T15:34:53.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28299" CreationDate="2016-04-14T22:48:02.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is because the fuel lubricates and cools the pump.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave the tank run dry, the fuel pump will turn dry, which will overheat it and may cause the electric motor to fail or otherwise to reduce its service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same principle applies to the water pump when it is electrically driven, like in the Toyota Prius. When burping those kind of systems, care should be taken of not allowing the water pump also to turn dry for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T23:09:44.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T23:09:44.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28299" CreationDate="2016-04-14T22:48:10.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2011/05/running-on-empty-low-gas-in-the-tank-can-be-costly/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yes, running low on fuel can damage your fuel pump&lt;/a&gt;, but as IHaveNoIdeaWhatImDoing mentioned in the comments below, modern fuel tanks are sophisticated enough to prevent fuel pump starvation until the tank is almost complete empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, damage to the pump can occur because fuel acts as a coolant for the electric motor. When there is no more fuel the pump will suck up air, causing it to overheat, thus increasing the potential for damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T15:13:49.237" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:13:49.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-14T23:22:37.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't open the door once the water level gets above the bottom of your doors. Don't even try. You're just wasting your precious energy. What you must do, is wind the windows down before the water shorts out the electrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people drown in cars, its often because they couldn't wind down the electric windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important thing to note. It is extremely difficult to break car windows, unless you have the right type of tool. Kicking the windows usually won't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15866" LastEditorUserId="15866" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T23:40:09.440" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T23:40:09.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9685" CreationDate="2016-04-15T00:45:35.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be cause by loose belts. I had some squealing when I started my car, used belt conditioner, replaced the belt, and it still squealed. So I retightened it twice until finally it stopped squealing the third time I tightened it. I had been afraid of over-tightening it, but had under-tightened it repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16446" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T13:28:52.737" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T13:28:52.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28305" CreationDate="2016-04-15T01:19:57.997" Score="9" ViewCount="2824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left a 2001 V6 Honda Accord unrun for ~4 months (I don't have a license). Naturally, the battery is dead. I have heard that letting the alternator charge the battery from empty like this puts unnecessary wear on the alternator, so it is best to get a shop charge. Since I don't have a license I can't get it to a shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it work to fully charge the battery off of a jumper battery (specifically I have access to a jump-n-charge 660, which has 1700 peak amps and 425 cranking amps. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cloreautomotive.com/sku.php?id=244&quot;&gt;http://www.cloreautomotive.com/sku.php?id=244&lt;/a&gt;). About how long would it take to charge the engine battery (approximately of course. An hour? 6 hours? 12 hours?). Is there risk of overcharging the engine battery like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16448" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:01:04.707" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T08:59:33.507" Title="Is charging my engine battery like this bad?" Tags="|honda|battery|accord|battery-charger|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28304" CreationDate="2016-04-15T01:34:19.750" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never had that issue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it this way won't damage anything, and if the car is not on a road, you can't be done for being in charge of a car while unlicensed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those jump batteries are generally intended for getting the car started; if you want to keep the battery in the car charged, look for a 'trickle charger'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T01:34:19.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28306" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28307" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" Score="0" Body="A device to strain out contaminates from fuel" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:09:29.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28308" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28309" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" Score="0" Body="A divider between the engine and the people. Usually made of sheet metal, its function is to keep fire and hot fluids from reaching the driver and passengers." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:19:24.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28310" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28311" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" Score="0" Body="An acronym; On Board Diagnostics. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T03:24:34.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28359" CreationDate="2016-04-15T03:34:39.343" Score="7" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the community here I have successfully fixed my overheat problem, so I'm moving on to another problem...lowering the 95 camry.  The method I'm planning on using to lower it is by adjusting the torsion key.  Any pros or cons to this method?  And would like to know how the handling will be affected.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  The 1995 Toyota Camry does NOT have the torsion bar that are found on most pickups and SUVs.  Sadly, I had misread a tutorial in a Camry forum on different ways you can drop your car, as this method only pertained to mentioned automobiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="15111" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:18:18.300" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:36:50.140" Title="Pros and cons lowering sedan?" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T04:00:33.160" Score="5" ViewCount="6532" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is my 2009 chevy malibu doing this click before i start it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16449" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T13:46:06.320" Title="I hear a click when i go to start my car... But starts up on second attempt" Tags="|engine|electrical|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28312" CreationDate="2016-04-15T05:33:11.777" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For God's sake don't&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still to see a car that was lowered properly. From what I can remember now you will have these issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car will jump at every small irregularity in the asphalt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels will scratch against the body when steered or when suspension works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a collision, the car will damage more for being in a lower position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More maintenance caused by the intense rattling that the car will suffer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be much better off trading your Camry for a Celica or an Integra, if you really mind about driving a sportier car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T05:33:11.777" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28304" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:04:45.287" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid corrodes the plates and does irreparable damage. Best to install a battery maintainer and leave it on all the time the battery is in storage. The maintainer is the difference between 1 year or 4 years of life on my boat battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical alternator can handle the high rate charge OK most of the time. Heat is the problem here also. But the slow rate charge with a charger is the preferred solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:04:45.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28316" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28317" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" Score="0" Body="Grease consists of oil suspended in a viscous thickening material to hold it in place." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:09:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28318" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28319" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" Score="0" Body="A drivetrain type that includes both a petroleum fueled engine and electric drive motors." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:17:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28320" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28321" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" Score="0" Body="A term describing the ratio of air (available oxygen) to fuel (available hydrogen and carbon) in the combustion process.  It is said to be rich when more fuel is available than air and lean when there is more air than fuel. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:24:04.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:27:29.990" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are a group of bike rider; whenever we go on a trip its been a little difficult to manage the location of all riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like If somebody left behind how can we find exact location of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we have any &lt;strong&gt;Device/Software&lt;/strong&gt; by which we can continues track each others location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; If any external device is available let us know we are ready to buy this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location:&lt;/strong&gt; if I have to be precise - &lt;strong&gt;India&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12730" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T15:49:04.013" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:49:04.013" Title="Looking for software/device to track members of a riding group" Tags="|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T16:33:28.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28323" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28324" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" Score="0" Body="PCV is and acronym for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It is part of a system that helps control air pollution by burning fumes that collect in the engine crankcase instead of venting them to the atmosphere. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:28:47.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28322" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:37:01.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google latitude provided you all have compatible mobile phones, wich nowerdays who doesn't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.google.com/gmm/?rd=2#topic=3495970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://support.google.com/gmm/?rd=2#topic=3495970&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will track in realtime the position of all the people you accept from your google account. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnGTl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnGTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I must point out this will only point out riders on a map, not rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:48:20.377" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:48:20.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28312" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:43:51.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pros: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks (arguable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower center of gravity, more stability, less chance of rolling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower gas consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/28314/15726&quot;&gt;Stated above by @gabrieldiego&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T08:37:53.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28327" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28328" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" Score="0" Body="Fault code for air fuel ratio sensor lean shift in the B1S2 location" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:57:33.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28329" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28330" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" Score="0" Body="Fault code for Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Intermittent" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:59:33.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28331" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28332" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" Score="0" Body="A bolt that has a hollow passage in the middle that allows fluid to flow through. On vehicles these are commonly found in fuel and transmission fluid pipe connections." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T07:04:37.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T07:34:47.570" Score="7" ViewCount="48637" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please guide me. I went for a regular check up of my new Celerio gasoline driven car. The Maruti Workshop mechanic made a mistake. He left the dipstick out after he checked my oil.  I figured it out after 200km driving. I did not get the engine washed after I drove it.   Afterword, I went the mechanic. They said it would be ok. I asked him to change the filter as a precaution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could this have damaged my engine in the long run?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics have assured me that there is currently no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or guidance is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16452" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:24:29.850" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T23:04:01.490" Title="I drove my car with the dipstick left out, did I do any damage?" Tags="|engine|oil|maintenance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28304" CreationDate="2016-04-15T08:44:57.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust and getting them to drive the car around a bit - not only does this help to charge the batter as per @Pete's answer, but it also gets all the fluids moving and keeps the rest of the running gear working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T08:44:57.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4816" CreationDate="2016-04-15T09:05:51.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gomme-auto.it/blog/dot-pneumatici&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; gives an answer to your question with great details, unfortunately it is in italian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary is tires do get old through time even if not installed under a car for few different reasons, oxidation, sunlight exposition, loss of volatile oils, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The swiss touring club (TCS) and the german automobil club (ADAC) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.presseportal.ch/fr/pm/100000091/100621338/test-del-tcs-pneumatici-vecchi-un-pericolo-per-la-sicurezza&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;performed tests&lt;/a&gt; and verified tyres older than 2 years are starting to show aging signals, they do recommend to install tires newer than two years and to avoid tires older than 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16454" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:05:51.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28336" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For various reasons, vehicles may be left for a long time (ranging from weeks to years). This tag is for questions about how to best prepare a vehicle for planned storage, and how to recommission a vehicle that has not been used for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28337" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" Score="0" Body="Questions about storing vehicles for a long time (more than two weeks), and recommissioning them afterwards." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T09:12:01.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22121" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:02:45.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors, and some are already covered well above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However on a typical &lt;em&gt;petrol&lt;/em&gt; engine the amount of power required is controlled by the throttle. This strangles the flow of air into the engine, and this results in pumping losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a car requires (say) 20hp for a constant speed then that is 20% of the available power of a 100hp car while only ~7% of the power of a 300hp car. Hence the more powerful engine needs throttling more with resulting greater pumping losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things are not quite that simple as fuel mapping will vary with many factor, for example the mixture being richened up when accelerating. How much will vary greatly depending on the design requirements of that engine. 2 similar engines might richen the mixture up at different points in the throttle / rev range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also weight issues. While weight has very little effect on the thrust needed to maintain a speed (it affects rolling resistance - a rule of thumb is that a car will require 1% of the weight in pounds as pounds of thrust to keep rolling) and essentially it doesn't change with speed (unlike thrust required to overcome aerodynamic drag which increases greatly as speed increases). Hence at a constant speed weight is of no great importance. However it makes a massive difference to the thrust required to accelerate at a reasonable rate. Double the weight and you need about double the thrust to accelerate at the same rate, let alone to accelerate more quickly (and after all, if you are choosing to buy a 300hp car rather than a 100hp car you probably do want to accelerate more quickly). In theory you will get back this loss by being able to coast for further, but in practice it is probably more likely the driver will brake and just lose the momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger engined cars are often physically larger which can affect aerodynamics (which is frontal area x drag factor). A larger frontal area will increase the drag, but this might be countered to an extent if the larger car is longer giving more scope to design a more aerodynamic shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastEditorUserId="12760" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T11:59:11.257" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T11:59:11.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28333" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:10:55.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, its hard to say without actually seeing the engine internals, however as a precaution you can get a oil change done, this will remove (or nearly remove) all the debris which might have gotten in, you could also use an Engine Flush as well, if you are unsure of how to use an Engine flush properly then take a can to your mechanic with new oil and filter, and have him/her do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T10:10:55.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28333" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:56:47.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see no cause for concern here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if debris makes its way into the oil sump and contaminates the engine oil, your oil filter should be able to capture it and remove it from the oil to prevent extended wear and tear on any bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T10:56:47.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T12:12:01.957" Score="7" ViewCount="6543" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister has a nice first generation Nissan Micra 4-speed automatic (I think it's the naturally aspirated, non-electronic carburetor version) . However, when starting it from a cold start (not necessarily cold weather, just when it's not used for a couple of hours), it has a problem with keeping the engine running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sometimes does not start until you 'pump' the accelerator before ignition. Whether that's necessary or not, it will have a very low RPM after ignition, and will cut out the moment you touch the accelerator, also in neutral. This problem will go away after maybe a minute, after which the car will function as normal, and it's genuinely fun to drive (don't judge...). What could be the cause? Is there an economical fix available for possible causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Perhaps related or unrelated: when filling it up, you can only do so very gently, for else it will 'block' just like when the tank would be full - reportedly it's due to a blocked air tube.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16456" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T18:48:57.920" Title="Startup problems: low idle RPM and stall on pressing the accelerator" Tags="|starting|nissan|rough-idle|cold-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T12:29:06.383" Score="11" ViewCount="6073" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 scion tc 5 speed. 106xxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday driving home car stalls out on the highway and power steering goes with it.  Battery and oil light come on and won't restart immediately.  Dash lights still work, headlights etc  all work. Cranks over like it wants to start, but just won't fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After disconnecting the battery terminals and cleaning them, which were pretty dirty, fires right up and I drive it home.  Today the same thing happens except this time when I try to restart the car rev's itself up to ~5000 rpm and dies.  Again disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery intermittently fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car runs strong through all gears up to redline even at WOT.  I'm going to have the codes pulled this afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16458" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T11:11:18.427" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T05:45:07.237" Title="Car stalls and won't restart, but disconnecting the battery fixes it?" Tags="|stall|electronic-control-module|scion|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28313" CreationDate="2016-04-15T13:15:23.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your starting system is typically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(-&gt; represents wires)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Battery -&gt; fuse -&gt; ignition switch -&gt; relay -&gt; starter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter also has a direct connection to the battery (big red wire)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it works the second time means there is likely a loose connection down the line somewhere.  The click you hear is either the relay or the starter solenoid.  Either way, it sounds like you are getting good power to the relay, so your issue lies at the starter.  First is to check for loose connections.  If your connections to the starter are good and tight, then the issue is likely inside the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T13:15:23.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28341" CreationDate="2016-04-15T13:24:32.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with your vehicle/engine specifically, but familiar with carbed engines in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think the #1 thing to look at would be the choke.  Pumping before starting a carb vehicle is normal.  It gives it a squirt of fuel and sets the choke.  The low RPM indicates that the high idle is not set, which likely means the choke is not set also.  There should be a spring on the side of the carb that sets the fast idle and choke when cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T13:24:32.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28333" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:46:00.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way this &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have damaged your engine is if oil flowed out the tube and left the engine dry. I'd suggest since no oil light came on, suggesting a lack of oil, you never had this issue. (There would be a large oil slick inside the engine bay as well.) Some vehicles have the tube stuck down into the oil. If there is excess pressure in the crankcase, oil can flow from the dipstick tube if the dipstick isn't securely fastened in the tube; the pressure will cause oil to flow out of the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube itself is so small, even if some dirt got into the tube, the amount would be &lt;em&gt;very minimal&lt;/em&gt;. There just isn't enough of a cross section for any amount of dirt to travel into. As has been stated, there is no real need for concern here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-18T02:29:46.547" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:29:46.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28346" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28347" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" Score="0" Body="Tool used to interface with onboard computers in a vehicle." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T14:51:01.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28483" CreationDate="2016-04-15T15:05:14.260" Score="6" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '06 Volvo V70 that I use mainly for commuting to and from work (about 10 km each way), with the occasional longer trip of up to several hundred km every few months or so. I drive maybe 7000-8000 km/year and the car has gone a total of approximately 155,000 km so far (I bought it from the dealership four years ago). I don't have access to a parking garage so the car stays outside nearly 100% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car currently gets a routine service once a year according to Volvo's general recommendations based on mileage and age (the next being due in a few months), as well as attention when the car systems indicate that something is wrong, but not really much else in terms of specific servicing. Things like that I recently replaced the battery because it was nearing the end of its servicable life (which didn't surprise me much, given my driving pattern) and before that had the cam belt replaced due to age when the car was approaching the ten year mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given that I drive mostly &lt;em&gt;short distances often,&lt;/em&gt; are there any particular additional steps I could or should be taking that will help keep the car in good condition for as long as possible?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7356" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T13:37:08.320" Title="What steps can I take to keep my car (V70, driven primarily for short commuting) in good condition?" Tags="|maintenance|volvo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T15:35:44.787" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got my first car, a 14' Audi S4 that is equipped with an electronic parking brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My common sense told me to park as following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come to a complete stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage electronic parking brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put car in Parking gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing this, I believed I could ensure that if there is any slope, the car weight pressure will be on the parking brake and not on my transmission/gears (please excuse my illiteracy in terms of car functioning as this is purely based on what I believe is happening)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what I see 10/10 times when I have my car serviced with my local Audi dealer, not a single time was it parked with use of the parking brake. I can imagine that the common assumption is &quot;use parking brake only when parking on steep hills&quot;. So, when I pick up my car and try putting it into drive, many times I hear a hard clunk sound when I move the shifter. I imagine this cannot be good for the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finally, my question: is my procedure preferred/required? Or I am I just thinking too much and it is unnecessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="14341" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T15:47:44.600" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T15:47:44.600" Title="Proper parking technique for a car with electronic parking brake" Tags="|parking|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T18:03:07.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28350" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28351" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" Score="0" Body="An acronym that stands for horse power. Which is a measure of power." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:29:51.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36401" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:31:38.100" Score="8" ViewCount="6702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the newer Audi A3's with either type of transmission (auto or DSG) has a really weird way to check (to normal pull the dipstick type checking) the transmission fluid. Can someone please describe how this is done and what tools/things might be needed to do it correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T00:02:01.957" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T19:50:51.967" Title="How to measure transmission fluid levels?" Tags="|transmission|audi|transmission-fluid|a3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28353" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28354" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" Score="0" Body="A term meaning that a spark plug is contaminated. It is usually used to mean that the spark plug is contaminated to the point that the misfire is present." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T16:32:54.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:01:32.913" Score="-2" ViewCount="5005" Body="&lt;p&gt;On average, most people have a 40-60 gallon fuel tank and with that full can travel 200 - 300 miles. My question is, how much gas do your vehicle use per mile? What are some of the factors that dictate this and can they be altered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:15:00.837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:16:32.570" Title="How much gas does a car use per-mile?" Tags="|gasoline|mileage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T20:31:18.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28355" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:10:36.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to calculate the gallons per mile is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill your tank to full and note the mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive till the tank is down to about 1/3&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the driving to the kind you would normally do, or you will effect the results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back and fill the car up to full again, and note the mileage and how many gallons were put into the tank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make your final calculation take the number of gallons you put into the tank and divide by the number of miles you drive since the first fill up. This your gallons per mile number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that can effect this number are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The overall health of your engine. An engine in bad need of a tune up will get worse results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The kind of driving you do. Accelerating and coasting use radically different amounts of gasoline, so avoiding the acceleration gets you better mileage. Driving around town will be worse than driving on the highway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't know of any street car that had a 60 gallon tank short of an SUV like the old Ford Excursion. I'm not even sure if something that huge had a fuel tank that big. Using the mid-range of your numbers, 250 miles and 50 gallons, that gives an average of 5 miles to the gallon. Unless you are driving an M1 Abrams tank, your mileage is way better than this. Even my old monster SUV got 3 times better than that. Sadly, your base assumptions are really way off the mark, I would try for more real world numbers in researching this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not really a topic for this forum, but I hope this gets you the info you need before we close it. We do appreciate your coming to the site and asking an honest question, but it's not really about mechanics for cars or motorcycles, so the likelihood is it will get closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:16:32.570" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:16:32.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28357" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US a website is available to check to see if a particular vehicle has un-completed recall repairs.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safercar.gov/CheckForRecalls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NHTSA recall website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28358" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" Score="0" Body="A term meaning the vehicle is in need of repairs deemed important enough that the safety could be in doubt and government action is taken to ensure that the manufacturer performs these repairs." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:18:44.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28312" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:31:15.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Camry uses a coil over strut type suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLSIb.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YLSIb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper method of lowering a vehicle like this involves replacing, &lt;strong&gt;at a minimum&lt;/strong&gt;, the entire coil/strut assembly with springs designed to lower the car (which are both shorter and stiffer), and uprated struts that will handle the increased forces imparted by the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, especially on higher mileage vehicles, it is a good idea to replace suspension components directly affected by the lowering, as the new suspension geometry and increased forces will wear out already worn parts even faster. Examples of these include upper and lower control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings, tie rod bushings, sway bar bushings/endlinks etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car came with various trims levels that offered a sport suspension package, you may be able to simply swap those parts over. This has the benefit of being able to use OEM components, which are guaranteed to fit and may be cheaper than aftermarket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, after any suspension modification, &lt;strong&gt;the car must be aligned!&lt;/strong&gt; This is the step that many people skip and the cure for almost all of the negative handling characteristics people associate with lowering a car, like a steering wheel that tries to dive into ruts in the road. A proper alignment will put your steering geometry back (or at least much nearer) to factory settings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Looks, improved handling, marginal improvement in fuel consumption&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: Ride quality will suffer in a direct relationship to how aggressive a drop/performance increase you want. Car may scrape over speed bumps/steep driveways. Increased crash damage, as bumper may be too low to be effective (Personally rear ended a car in a lowered Integra. The other car had almost entirely superficial damage, whereas the mine was totaled, with catastrophic damage to the radiator support and surrounding areas)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastEditorUserId="14216" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:36:50.140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:36:50.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28188" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:34:01.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no doubt that panic must be avoided. Just having the confidence that you will get out, knowing what to do in advance, and having the right tool prepared and you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Mythbusters episode the keys are a glas break, and a seat belt cutter. Whatever tool you choose, testing it both gives you confidence in the tool and your ability to use them. Your local junk yard (breaker yard depending on which continent you call home) should have something cheap you can break up for testing / training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:34:01.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28369" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:36:32.987" Score="9" ViewCount="170122" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have had this issue for the last couple months where when I first start the car, shifting to Drive (automatic transmission) doesn't do anything. Pressing the gas only revs the engine, as if in neutral.  Shifting down to low gears (1 and 2) has the same outcome.  Reverse performs as expected, I can back up with no problem.  Only after a few minutes of idling does the car slowly, almost grudgingly, pull away.  I checked trans fluid and I'm good, and I don't see any leaks.  Since I have been coping with this problem for a while, I did notice a few things.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. The car will only move once my rpms (while in Drive) drop below 1000.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Upon first starting the car and shifting to Drive, I originally idle at about 1500, then as the engine warms I steadily drop until I start to move (below 1000).&#xA;3. Revving up to about 4000 rpms decreases the time it takes to &quot;warm up&quot; and drop the needle below 1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are (a)what could be the cause? My gears obviously aren't connecting until a certain rpm. Why?&#xA;(b) why do I originally idle high, then steadily drop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T02:21:30.047" Title="Why am I not moving after starting car and shifting to Drive?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|gears|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28282" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:41:42.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you install the CAI, or did you buy it from someone else? If it was someone else, they may have installed a chip or had the ECU re-flashed to take advantage of the increased airflow. If so, then you'll need to re-flash the ECU with a stock tune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you gap the plugs properly before you installed them? That's an easy step to forget, especially when you're replacing several things at the same time. And have friends helping you. Friends with beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:41:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28363" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28364" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" Score="0" Body="The driving pattern on which the engine control computer (PCM) will run its tests of sensors and systems. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:50:31.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28365" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28366" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" Score="0" Body="A term used to describe an engine that continues to run after it has been turned off." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:52:10.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28367" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28368" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" Score="0" Body="A part on an engine that directs spark ignition power from a central ignition coil to the various cylinders at the correct times." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:55:23.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28361" CreationDate="2016-04-15T17:59:25.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no feeling of moving at all, not even that little lurch forward when things are working correctly, it sounds like your transmission is having a serious issue. Nothing says it's dead, too early for that yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you look at the transmission fluid, what color is it? Does it smell burnt? It should be a nice bright red, and not have the burnt smell. If this is true, you may have a problem with the transmission solenoids, bad vacuum lines, or some other things. That would be good news ans these fixes are relatively inexpensive compared to a transmission rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the solenoids, or vacuum lines, you should probably take it in and have it looked at. Find a reputable local shop that specializes in transmissions. This is not something you want the dealer to handle, and if it needs a rebuild, you don't want just any old shop doing it. I had a Cadillac where the transmission was just another consumable. Take it to a pro, it's worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:25:47.647" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:25:47.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28370" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additives for diesel fuel can be needed for such problems as ice and bacterial growth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28371" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" Score="0" Body="Liquid products added to fuel in an effort to solve a problem." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:03:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28389" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:03:51.667" Score="5" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 scion xB and am needing to replace the headlights and one of the wiring harnesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen on places like amazon and other sites for OE head lights, but I cannot seem to find anything relating to the wiring harness needed for those lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My driver side headlight wire is snapped and needs to be replaced. I am no expert, but I figured I could just splice a new wire connector on the existing one without having to replace the entire wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is completely stock, but I don't have an owners manual. How can I determine what type of connector/wire I need to replace the damaged one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link for the headlights that I am going to purchase.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008G34RIY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Headlights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16463" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T19:26:22.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:35:05.063" Title="Replacement: How do I determine what wiring harness goes with my headlight?" Tags="|headlight|wiring|replace|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28373" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28374" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" Score="0" Body="A device that meters the proper amount of fuel into an engine cylinder. It is controller by the engine control computer. " OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:06:47.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28375" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28376" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" Score="0" Body="The part of an electrical circuit after the load device and continuing back to the voltage source." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:10:53.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28377" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28378" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" Score="0" Body="A vehicle anti-theft system that inhibits engine run unless certain requirements are met before a start attempt. The most common is an RFID chip in the ignition key." OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:14:05.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28379" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:15:28.193" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:15:28.193" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:15:28.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28380" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:15:28.193" Score="0" Body="Questions related to frozen water" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T10:14:27.153" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T10:14:27.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28445" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:38:27.723" Score="5" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;In looking at the new motorcycle designs that are coming out in roughly the last decade or so, there seems to be a trend towards the cantilevered rear wheel. My question is what are the advantages to this design? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of an older, traditional design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLtP6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLtP6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honda CB750&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a modern cantilevered rear wheel design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3IpV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3IpV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern rear wheel design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on the older design there is a shock mounted on a rear suspension arm to a point just below the rider. On the modern design that shock or support are not there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:55:17.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T04:34:33.573" Title="Why is there a trend towards cantilevered rear wheels in recent motorcycle designs?" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21881" CreationDate="2016-04-15T18:56:35.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you purchase a lighter plug extension that adds three extra plugs, you're not changing the voltage because the plugs are in parallel with each other so that each plug can deliver 12V to the accessory connected. How much current each accessory draws, however will be added together, and can't exceed the current capacity, usually dictated by the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the lighter jack in your dash is protected by a 15A (amp) fuse. You plug in your extension and plug three accessories into the plug. You connect your cell phone charger to one plug. If you have a recent phone, it probably draws about 2A at 5V (your adapter reduces the voltage from 12V to 5V) which is just under 1A at 12 volts. You connect a GPS to the second plug and it draws probably half an amp. In the last plug, you connect an electric cooler which draws about 7.5A. In total, you're drawing (1A + 0.5A + 7.5A) 9A of current, so you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you try to power three coolers, each pulling 7.5A, you're going to blow your fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:56:35.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:17:24.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have most of the information you need with what was quoted from Jeepz.com, however I just wanted to add a few points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When death wobble occurs on a vehicle, the original cause is often difficult to find because the violent shaking it causes will often damage other components in the steering. So even if you find one item in the checklist, continue checking the rest. On a TJ specifically, the most common cause is the trackbar mount at the axle end where the hole tends to get elongated (oval) over time, especially if the vehicle was out of alignment. I would start there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that can cause death wobble is worn steering ball joints (top and bottom of your steering knuckle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a TJ, I would check the following in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Bar (axle end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Bar frame end (is the bolt loose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel Bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering Rod Ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stabilizer won't cause death wobble. If it's worn, it will make it more obvious, and a good stabilizer can mask a problem, but it doesn't fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:17:24.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1261" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:25:33.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to determine the root cause of a death wobble from the behaviour alone, but there are some clues. They're just not fool proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find your death wobble is related to speed, and stops when you lower your speed (instead of having to come to a full stop), then it's probably an issue with tire balance or possibly wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you have to completely stop the vehicle (or close to it) to stop the shaking, it's probably related to your steering, and most often it's the trackbar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue, however, is that usually death wobble starts with one root cause, but through violent shaking causes damage to other components so you will likely find you have multiple issues compounding the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your tires are balanced, and your steering aligned, I would check the rest in the following order for a TJ, start with the trackbar, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, control arms then your steering ball joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a JK or JKU, the list would be different similar, but in a different order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:25:33.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28386" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:29:32.307" Score="23" ViewCount="83223" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it's time to raise the car onto jack stands, but for whatever reason it needs to go higher than the stand height allows. How can I safely raise the height of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done in the past is put a 2in concrete pave stone under the stand. It's much bigger than the base of the stand, and is flat against the ground and the top surface is flat for the stand to sit on. Is that too much weight for the stand? i would hate for it to crack and drop the stand to the ground with me under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the safe way to do this? I mean besides buying a lift.. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T20:50:16.243" Title="How to raise the car higher than the jack stands will allow?" Tags="|safety|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28385" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:37:19.567" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always look into jack stands that are typically used for heavy duty trucks and semis.  One time I had a lifted truck I had to go to Northern Tool and purchase high reaction jack stands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LitiH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LitiH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200479001_200479001&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I wouldn't recommend using anything other than the jack stand.  Even if you are using a block that block could still break from the pressure being applied and you would be crushed.  Safety should always be top priority.  You just need bigger stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T19:37:19.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28385" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:51:07.407" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hydraulic car ramps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; are a great option if you can source them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8ZNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8ZNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Four ramps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They give oodles of clearance by lifting the wheels themselves. You have to drive the wheels into them before using the hydraulic pump to lift the ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6nND.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6nND.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Montage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drive-on ramps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; operate on a similar principle - just drive onto them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IvG6P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IvG6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rhino ramps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T20:22:45.660" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:22:45.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28385" CreationDate="2016-04-15T19:56:02.113" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding this as an additional answer since I was reminded of it after seeing Zaid's answer.  Hydraulic lift jacks are fairly pricey so I always wondered of an alternative and there is an item that has come out that is on my wish list called &lt;a href=&quot;http://myliftstand.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My Lift Stand&lt;/a&gt;.  It is great if you do not need to access the brakes or require a wheel to be off and it adds additional lift beyond a typical jack stand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pic from site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BiQTS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BiQTS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since some recommended in comments a pic without the jack here is another reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3b9lc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3b9lc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did look on the site for a pic if just the stand itself but I have only found pics of the jack in use.  If someone can find a pic or take a pic of the stand please feel free to edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screen grab from the demonstration video on the seller's site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jx6qr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jx6qr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T20:50:14.710" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:50:14.710" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28372" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:07:21.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can repin the connector or most auto parts stores will sell a replacement harness connector that you can crimp or solder on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDsTp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDsTp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ECH LS6235&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The xB takes a 9003 bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T20:35:05.063" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:35:05.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28385" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:16:13.267" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood. It's plenty strong. Cut some 2x6 or 2x8 and stack them accordingly. This is the most cost effective way to solve your problem. The only danger you will encounter is if you used rotten wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the picture is not 2x6's, etc, but, it displays the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcLtI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcLtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T00:38:22.787" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T00:38:22.787" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28394" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:55:59.620" Score="4" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure where to ask this, so feel free to move it if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I want to buy a car from my friend for $8,000. To avoid registration costs, I pay him a measly $500 for the car and $7,500 for helping me brush my dogs (or something else insignificant... you get the idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this minimize the cost of registration/sales tax? Is there anything that prevents me from doing this (i.e. legally)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16468" LastEditorUserId="1546" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T22:14:27.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T22:14:27.893" Title="Buy a car for cheap to avoid registration costs?" Tags="|subaru|used|registration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T23:04:49.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28295" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:57:16.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first guess would be a warped or marred rotor. By &quot;marred&quot; I mean a section of the surface has been corrupted by a corrosive or partly glazed, so that it is smoother or rougher than the rest of the rotor. Both of these can be diagnosed by the same treatment. Have the rotor &quot;turned&quot; (almost any auto parts or machine shop should do it for less than $30). If it's warped, it should become obvious while they're turning it, and a competent shop will tell you about it. If the surface was corrupted, it'll get scraped off, but you might never know what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you'll be good to go, at least for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, something caused the problem. Hopefully, it was a one-time deal that won't happen again. In my case, it was an improperly installed brake caliper, so even when I got the rotor straightened out, the caliper just warped it again. It'd be good to check it out and see if you can figure out what caused the problem in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to check if it's the brakes or the bearing is to take the rotor off and try spinning the wheel hub. Even a good bearing will have a slight resistance, but if it sticks or rattles in and out, then it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:57:16.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-04-15T20:59:07.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules depend on the state, but if you're telling the state you paid less than you did, that's Tax Fraud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Texas, they don't even let you do this, however.  The state maintains what is basically a &quot;Blue Book&quot; database of car prices, and you have to pay tax on whatever they value the car at for a minimum.  I'm sure other states have done similar.  Saying you bought the car from your buddy for $300 was never really believable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T20:59:07.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:00:20.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It entirely depends on your jurisdiction, and possibly on the vehicle itself. In my county in Texas, they recently changed the law to put a stop to just the kind of thing you're talking about. Instead of charging sales tax or registration as a percentage of the price (which someone might report as being $100, even though they paid $10,000), they charge based on their evaluation of what that year, make and model is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it's a motorcycle... that's even more differenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that IS the same in all jurisdictions is that this kind of thing (tax fraud) is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastEditorUserId="4551" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T21:10:51.167" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:10:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15875" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:03:53.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car drives for about half an hour and switches off or parked off and within 10mins or so of trying to restart the vehicle, suspect the crank sensor.  The reason is that the crank sensor is impaired by dust or dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove, clean and replace.  It controls timing (spark) so if the tank is full and you hear the engine fuel pump buzzing sound in the engine compartment it means that it is supplying fuel.  Suspect the pencil coils too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16470" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T23:31:41.120" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T23:31:41.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:06:46.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this has been debated as possibly a legal or illegal question if this were a relative some states do allow a transfer of title ownership as a gift without the need to pay a fee.  However, your question still is entirely based on your region.  You should contact your local registration area to see what the rules are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, fair warning.  If you do plan to manipulate the system and declare that you purchased the vehicle for X amount and the seller files their taxes as an expense written off for a different amount they are required to provide your information from the sale to use it on their taxes.  If the amounts are different there will be an investigation if you try to write off your sales expense for the vehicle.  Also, that depend on your area when it comes to taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T21:12:05.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:12:05.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:09:17.770" Score="4" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '66 T-Bird I'm rejuvenating. I'm not as much interested in authenticity as I am in getting it to run. I like the idea of having the same car, but with better built components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I need to replace the distributor. I can get a $95 one, or I can get a $500 one. I don't want to get into brands or reviews. Rather, what can be better about a more expensive distributor? Could an expensive one do something that a cheaper one doesn't, will it operate more precisely, or is it probably just a better warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T14:46:03.127" Title="What's better about an expensive distributor?" Tags="|distributor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:27:48.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there is nothing preventing you from doing this other than your own integrity. You can, in fact, walk right into the registration office and sign the papers that your new ride cost you $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like others have stated, depending on your location there may be programs in place to prevent this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chances of you getting caught are in the eyes of the beholder, and said programs your local government has put in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;strong&gt;illegal&lt;/strong&gt;, though. Punishment will vary depending on location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:27:48.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28381" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:30:41.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'd be difficult to identify a trend without some heavy-duty statistical analysis, but the &quot;cantilevered&quot; rear wheel is all about suspension travel. This design is for off-road bikes, BMX bikes, etc. that need a lot of vertical travel in the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason for the need for lots of travel is the need for softer springs. There's an interesting video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGZRairqHNI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, about why softer is better, but the idea is that a softer spring can keep the wheel in contact with the ground much longer than a stiffer spring. More contact with the ground is obviously better, but the softer spring requires more vertical travel distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &quot;why is there a trend,&quot; I'm not sure there's an answer. It may be that there's a manufacturing or engineering reason that they are preferable, but I doubt it. It may just be that's the kind of bike you like to look for ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:30:41.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:57:44.867" Score="5" ViewCount="1925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a brand new Hyundai Santafe a week ago.&#xA;I started feeling a small bump (that also allow the rear (right) second row seats to vibrate). The small bumps start at very low speeds (20km/h)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first thought the problem had to do with the tire pressure, so I had them checked but nothing changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I took it for both wheel balancing and alignment. The mechanic told me everything is perfect with the car (I was like... it's a brand new car). He also told me that the shock showas and the brake pads/disks were fine too. The problem is that I can still feel it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried everything in my knowledge but now i'm completely clueless.&#xA;Can you guys help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bumps can only felt from the right side of the car (i'm assuming the rear right back side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total mileage of the car is 300.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16472" LastEditorUserId="16472" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T22:02:55.163" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T19:32:07.470" Title="I feel small bumps while driving" Tags="|hyundai|alignment|wheel-balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:58:32.650" Score="3" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the crankshaft sensor failing, No CEL.  My car did this last night. Ishut it off gave it dry gas topped off tranny fluid about 2ounces.  Ran it and it was smooth, shifted normally no irratic accelerations.  What is wrong with this car it was like it couldn't keep proper timing, everything was off a beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16473" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T12:48:19.473" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T12:48:19.473" Title="2002 Sonata that accelerates on its own and with braking seems like shift lockup. Also at a complete stop the car is still reving" Tags="|transmission|hyundai|sonata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28398" CreationDate="2016-04-15T22:13:00.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a huge collector interest in 1960s American stuff. Hence there are lots of aftermarket parts available of variable quality. Most people don't drive their classic everyday for reasons like fuel cost and wanting to keep mileage low. In the case of GM and its Australian cousin Holden there are cheap and expensive distributors to choose from. The cheap Chinese one has a short life bearing. The old stock one has a long life bearing. The cheap one may be valid for drag strip use but they wear out real fast so don't do this if you want to do Route 66. I would get the expensive one or stick to the stock one. Why spend any money on something that is less robust than the stock one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastEditorUserId="4551" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T14:46:03.127" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T14:46:03.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T22:15:22.840" Score="4" ViewCount="8132" Body="&lt;p&gt;It cannot be jump started and the battery is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you help?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Renault Clio 2003 1.2 I have checked the battery, it's is ok. There is a clicking sound coming from the fuse box I think it is the starter relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you give me your opinion and let me know which relay it may be or if you know what the problem may be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16475" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T09:58:04.057" Title="Renault Clio 1.2 2003 all the car does is clicks - Starting Issue" Tags="|troubleshooting|starter|renault|clio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28402" CreationDate="2016-04-15T22:19:32.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to diagnose without more information, but it could be that your throttle plate was stuck open. This &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the engine revving even after the engine coming to a stop (fuel injection management compensates for more air by adding more fuel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the feeling that the engine is running rough (misfiring in the event of a lean condition, while the fuel injection management is still in the process of correcting the lean condition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What could cause the throttle plate to get stuck like that?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;carbon build-up on the back of the throttle plate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix will involve just cleaning off the carbon build-up after gaining access to the back of the plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SckT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SckT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CBU on Throttle body&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if cable-operated, maybe the cable or spring has snagged on something&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T22:19:32.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T22:36:20.083" Score="5" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru Forester (manual transmission). Stupidly restarted car after a stall but before engine stopped turning. Now there is a noise like a broken part inside the engine. Must be piece of starter pinion or ring gear tooth. Any idea which is more likely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondary question: Is it tricky to replace starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16477" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T00:11:06.240" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T06:12:22.943" Title="Subaru - seem to have broken a tooth in starter pinion or ring gear" Tags="|subaru|starter|forester|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28411" CreationDate="2016-04-15T22:39:51.413" Score="5" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to start my car today but after a few splutters, the ignition quit (&lt;em&gt;i.e.&lt;/em&gt; turning it does nothing now). The inside lights / brake lights don't go on anymore, so I assume the battery's dead. But when I opened the hood, I saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lZOtO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lZOtO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally my roommate maintains this vehicle, but he's out of town. He's a pretty knowledgeable mechanic by hobby, so I wouldn't be surprised if he saw this and just ignored it, if he saw no serious issues with it. But, maybe it's a really old cord and just now finally severed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to jump this battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3549" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T03:03:39.917" Title="Car battery ground appears to have severed, is it safe to jump?" Tags="|battery|safety|battery-cable|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28468" CreationDate="2016-04-15T23:22:55.757" Score="9" ViewCount="13053" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a car's onboard diagnostic port to toggle the headlights, interior lights, or parking lights? If not through the OBD-II port, how would I go about remotely toggling the lights on a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16479" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T08:41:10.433" Title="Is it Possible to Control Lights through OBD-II Port?" Tags="|obd-ii|lights|remote-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28408" CreationDate="2016-04-16T00:17:29.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a body ground. This is not the main ground, but will affect how anything attached to the ground will work. This might mean your radio or your lights might not work. It might mean the computer in your car (if it has one) won't work. There are any of a hundred things which could go wrong, but you should still be able to jump your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, get this fixed before you try to get it jumped. Your car will be in much better shape for doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T03:03:39.917" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T03:03:39.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28405" CreationDate="2016-04-16T00:27:48.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without access to a wiring diagram you'll have to look at your owners manual or see if they put a diagram on the fuse/relay box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, if the starter relay is clicking you can rule out anti theft. The starter relay generally draws power from the ignition and passes power to the starter S terminal. If you're getting power at the S terminal the relay is OK and the starter is bad. If you're not getting power on the S terminal try switching the starter relay with another relay and or inspect the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely, you need a new starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:27:48.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T00:35:09.863" Score="3" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;F350 2002 wiring problems. Electric mirrors were fixed and then problems with power windows, air conditioner and  radio arise. The windows, radio and air conditioner stop working after started and going down the road then start working again after about 20 minutes. The dealership says it's the ignition switch causing it and wants to charge us $500 to fix. Where is the ignition switch in this truck anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16480" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T03:00:08.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T03:43:02.473" Title="F350 2002 wiring problems" Tags="|electrical|ford|f-350|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12036" CreationDate="2016-04-16T01:38:05.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clatter usually associated with diesel motors is a result of the much higher forces of combustion in a diesel motor which at or about TDC (top dead center) &quot;slaps&quot; the moving assembly. Some of the newer motors are much quieter by virtue of having a pilot injection as well as (in the case of piezo injectors) up to 7 injection events per combustion cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16484" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T01:38:05.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2016-04-16T03:45:09.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have received some good answers here, but none appear to be specific to the Wrangler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wrangler uses a standard 7&quot; round headlight housing with H13 bulbs, and there are several HID kits that will work very well in these housings that will plug right into your stock wiring harness. The HID bulbs will fit right into the housing the same way as the standard H13 bulb. Since both sides use the same bulb, there's no problem swapping them left to right, but there's no point, as the bulbs are identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to what mike stated above, once you've installed your new HID kit, you can re-aim the headlights, as there are adjustment screws to allow this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note, in order to remove and replace the bulbs you have to remove the grille (simple enough, there are six plastic clips on the top to remove, then you can pull the grill right off) and remove the housings. There's no room behind them to access them otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As was already mentioned, HID bulbs do require a ballast, but a good kit will come with those ballasts pre-wired to plug into the standard H13 wiring and the bulb will be shaped to fit directly into the housing. You will have to firmly attach the ballast to the chassis, usually with a couple of screws. Since you'll have the grille off, You'll probably find a spot without too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T03:45:09.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19273" CreationDate="2016-04-16T03:47:39.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with your local off-road or Jeep club, if there's one in your area, chances are someone has some sitting in the garage. Many people who off-road remove the rear sway bar completely. If you're driving on the road, and haven't made any other provisions, I wouldn't recommend doing this, but you might find someone willing to give you a sway bar link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T03:47:39.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27917" CreationDate="2016-04-16T04:31:19.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what your stock gear ratio is. You mentioned you have a 2004 LJ (Wrangler Unlimited), which means it probably came with a 3.73 axle ratio unless you have the Rubicon, in which case it came with 4.10 gears. There should be a small metal tag on the rear differential that's stamped with your gear ratio, but it's not uncommon for that to be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your Jeep is not a Rubicon, and is running 3.73 gears, then you will be putting some additional strain your automatic transmission, but it won't be significant. That transmission (42rle) was offered in TJ models with gears as low as 3.07 in both 4 and 6 cylinder models, which has the same &quot;tall&quot; first gear effect. Running 33&quot; tires will increase the wear on your automatic transmission, but you're not pushing it outside of it's design specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably consider getting a tuner to correct the speedometer/odometer readings and adjust the shift patterns for your tire size/gear ratio combination. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://superchips.com/products/f5-jeep-flashpaq-3874-3874/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://superchips.com/products/f5-jeep-flashpaq-3874-3874/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the Rubicon, which came stock with 4.10 axle ratio, then you're in even better shape. The Rubicon came equipped with that axle ratio specifically to handle larger tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T04:31:19.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28407" CreationDate="2016-04-16T06:12:22.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ring gear is more likely than the starter. Remove the starter, inspect its gear and then rotate the engine one full revolution while looking at the ring gear teeth. This is not a common problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter is an easy part to change as long as the battery is disconnected as the first step. Replacing the ring gear is much more work as the transmission must be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T06:12:22.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24909" CreationDate="2016-04-16T09:34:07.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing is the use of fit type to form a positive seal. Older vehicles used harder materials (not to be mistaken for toughness or strength) for most parts. As a result it was possible to use an interference fit or a transition fit to form a seal. Attached is an image explaining this.  Essentially, the fit is literally to tight for any fluid to flow through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZanp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZanp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T09:34:07.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28012" CreationDate="2016-04-16T09:57:23.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you released your clutch too quickly, that is almost definitely the dog teeth in the transmission hitting each other while engaging. This happens and is clearly heard in smaller front wheel drives. (I first noticed it on a VW Polo).It is not a pleasant sound to hear. If your car is working fine with no noises, then there is nothing to worry about but I'd suggest not doing that again (obviously). The problem is not because the engine rpm was raised but that you released the clutch too quickly. There was not enough time for the clutch or the synchro to match speeds before the gears engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T09:57:23.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28405" CreationDate="2016-04-16T09:58:04.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some possible causes for your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Damaged wiring from starter relay to starter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Damaged wiring from battery to starter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Damaged wiring from ignition lock to starter relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken starter relay&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 and 4 could be possible because the relay click you are hearing could come from a different relay. There is a relay in some cars to turn off other power loads like the radio to reduce the load at the battery during engine start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken Starter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dead battery&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said you checked the battery, so this is just for completeness. If the clicking sound you are hearing is a &lt;strong&gt;continuos repeating clicking&lt;/strong&gt; while holding the key in 'start' position, it could come from a dead/weak battery. Some modern cars (mostly VAG but maybe also others) refuse to start when the battery is to weak. Instead you hear a repeating clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some problem with the anti-theft system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually some light in the dashboard should light up in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T09:58:04.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28425" CreationDate="2016-04-16T10:56:57.113" Score="9" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I see pictures of trucks made by Volvo, Scania or Daimler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder what are the highlighted mirrors in the picture used for? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctfQo.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctfQo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see those mirrors in most trucks made by Indian Commercial Vehicle makers like Tata Motors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16487" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:08:17.993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:08:17.993" Title="Purpose of highlighted mirrors in trucks" Tags="|part-identification|truck|mirrors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T11:40:42.560" Score="12" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you apply a paint used for the exterior of car to the body and wings of a passenger airplane? If no, please explain why? How do the paints used differ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15948" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T12:31:00.453" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:21:26.577" Title="Do cars and passenger airplanes use the same type of exterior paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28426" CreationDate="2016-04-16T11:51:00.487" Score="5" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to start my car less than a minute after turning it off last night and it wouldn't turn over... it wouldn't even click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a few times and then let it rest.  After a 30 minute phone call I opened the car door and the interior lights came on but attempts to start the car shut all electrical down (even the headlights won't work) and there is no apparent signs of it trying to start when turning the key (no clicking, etc.)  everything just goes dead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is, if I give it a good 10 minutes or so all the lights will work but the car still won't turn over or even seem like it is even trying to do so and future attempts to start the car will cause the electrical to go dead temporarily all over again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16488" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T16:19:34.213" Title="2000 Honda Accord - Attempts to start cause lights to go out with no clicking and fails to start" Tags="|honda|starting|ignition|accord|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28422" CreationDate="2016-04-16T11:52:41.440" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They provide the driver with coverage of two significant blind spots. Especially in cities, there are numerous accidents with cyclists, pedestrians or even small cars being in that blind spot and being hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These mirrors allow the driver to cover those blind spots and be sure no one is there before he begins a manoeuvre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety legislation in Europe may be the reason they are fitted on these ones, but not on Indian made ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T12:16:22.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T12:16:22.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28424" CreationDate="2016-04-16T12:18:17.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is more demand than the connection can take and then nothing works ... wash, rinse, repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you need to figure out where the connection is getting lost. It may just take tightening a post on the battery. If the battery has a lot of corrosion at the posts, this could cause the condition. You'd need to clean the posts off and get a good connection again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @FredWilson suggests, the problem is most likely in the terminal where the cable attaches to the clamp. Loosen (but don't remove all the way) the bolts which holds the cable to the clamp, doing the negative first, then before reconnecting, work on the positive. Once done, reconnect the positive first then the negative last. This should prevent arcing. When the wire is out of it's holder, ensure the area of the clamp is clean to include any paint (specifically the red positive terminal). Then clean the cable, knocking any debris or corrosion out of the cable to get it as clean as possible. Once clean, coat the cable wires in dielectric grease and reattach firmly into the clamp. This procedure should most likely solve your issue. You can get dielectric grease at almost any parts store or I'd imagine Walmart as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T16:19:34.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T16:19:34.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28401" CreationDate="2016-04-16T12:47:11.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be you have a bad tire. If the belts are not put onto the tire correctly, the tire comes out malformed and can cause vibrations. The easiest way to tell this is by rotating your tire front to rear on the problem side to see if the vibration changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, &lt;em&gt;this is a dealer issue&lt;/em&gt;. All new vehicles come with what is called an &quot;adjustment period&quot; (at least in the States). This adjustment period is 12 months in most cases (at least at the dealerships I worked at it was this length). If you find an issue with your brand new vehicle during this time, you take it back and they make it right. The dealership themselves don't have to pay for this as it is covered under warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it back to the dealership and tell them to fix it. Tell them what was already done (if they don't know already) and tell them you suspect there is a bad tire. Take the service manager for a ride and show them &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what you are seeing/feeling so there is no doubt in their minds there is an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T12:47:11.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28424" CreationDate="2016-04-16T16:08:06.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture in your comment suggests the following course of action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolted type of battery terminal shown can cause this symptom and still look OK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test it with a voltmeter. Put one probe on the lead of the battery and the other on the copper of the cable and then read the meter while trying to crank the engine. Do this for both connections. If the volt reading is more than 0.2 volts that connection needs repair. Most likely one of them will read 8 or more volts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That type of terminal is considered temporary by many in the repair industry. The crimp type terminal type shown below is the preferred type and the type car came with. These remain tight over time; the bolted type used on your car tend to loosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ftuj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ftuj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crimp type battery terminal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is possible the loss of voltage is elsewhere in the wiring it is not likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T16:08:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28385" CreationDate="2016-04-16T18:18:48.757" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The safest method to increase the jack height without purchasing more equipment is to work in a level surface that provides a natural &quot;grease pit&quot; environment.&lt;/strong&gt; Assuming you only need more room to maneuver yourself under the car: parking LEVEL/FLAT over a steep curb, gutter, sidewalk, gulley, etc. will give you that extra room to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90yxL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/90yxL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can jack up the car, but always use jackstands as a backup support. I've seen cars fall off of jacks. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've seen a jackstand save my brother-in-law's life.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; For this reason, I personally will do no more than reach under a car until I have jackstands in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I highly recommend that you instead use ramps or wheel stands (buy, rent or borrow) as suggested above. A car on ramps/wheel stands, over a deep gutter can be a comfortable working enviroment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a wood block to get an extra 1 1/2&quot;, but will not use multiple wood blocks (as suggested by others) because they become too unstable. A better choice is concrete blocks or large concrete pavers. Or perhaps building wooden wheel stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;wooden wheel stands &amp;amp; wooden jack stands:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MhEje.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MhEje.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16495" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T18:18:48.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T18:44:51.587" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drove kids to school , stop to get ha and made it home then was about to leave back out and the car started to drive sluggish as if it didn't want to do . I proceeded to pull over at a gas station and once I stop I turned the car off . I tried cranking it back up and it would crank but die right back out !  Left it at the store for 2 days because had no other way to move it . And when I went back it wouldn't even crank up it sounded Like it was just trying to turn over ! And now I have a red coolant symbol under where my temperature hand is and my temperature  hand has dropped all the way down ! I also looked under the hood and where my anti freeze or water go was completely empty and there was a yellow looking goop under the top ! ?? what is wrong with my car? Is it something major like fuel pump ?  Or does it need water &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16496" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T20:41:27.543" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T20:41:27.543" Title="2006 Mercedes E350 4matic , v6 engine" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|coolant|mercedes-benz|pump|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T20:43:03.363" Score="9" ViewCount="25137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2014 Honda Civic; couple of months ago, my car's brakes started making a weird 'Clicking' sound when I would apply brakes first time after my car is parked for say around 30 mins or so. Once made the sound, it won't make that sound again while my driving until the car is again parked for some decent amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got my Civic serviced for code B1 and I told dealer about this sound but on getting the delivery, they told they didn't do anything about that sound since they couldn't reproduce it. Funny part is, the moment I started pulling my car out of their parking, it made that sound :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could be causing this sound? I'm worried that brakes shouldn't fail while I'm with my family on a highway. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16498" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T17:41:16.280" Title="'Click' Sound on Applying Brake" Tags="|honda|brakes|civic|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:26:28.027" Score="6" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experiencing exhaust fumes in the car.  It's causing eyes burning and headaches after driving the car for 30 minutes. The Dealer checked and found nothing wrong but every time after driving the car for about 30 minutes, I have head ache and my eyes burn from the air coming through the vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I troubleshoot where the exhaust leak is?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could be the source if the exhaust gasses are getting into the cars cabin?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16500" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T23:13:35.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T05:26:19.693" Title="2002 Mercedes E320 - Exhaust getting into the cabin of the vehicle and causing headaches" Tags="|exhaust|mercedes-benz|leak|smell|e320|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:26:30.767" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this indicator controlled by a fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16499" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T21:27:35.023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T21:27:35.023" Title="Oil level indicator on my 2005 Caddy CTS message center does not indicate problem, even though oil level is dangerously low." Tags="|oil|cadillac|cts|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T21:31:52.013" Score="4" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a 2005 Grand Prix V6 non supercharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It overheats at idle and in park. I have had my head gasket and head resurfaced at Pepboys and replaced my radiator with a larger 1 inch thick radiator. The thermostat was also with a new OEM one.  Bled and burped my cooling system.  No leaks anywhere.  Bypassed the heater and capped the hosses.  The car still wants to climb to the red.  It has Dextron 50/50 and has been flushed.  Both fans kick on with a good amount of breeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I troubleshoot my cooling system to discover what the issue might be with the continued overheating?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16501" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T23:11:33.577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T23:11:33.577" Title="2005 Pontiac Grand Prix overheating" Tags="|cooling-system|pontiac|overheating|cooling|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2016-04-16T22:20:37.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that putting cotton socks - yes gym socks - over my foot pedals and secure them in place with tight rubber band or string works perfectly!!!! &#xA;Use black socks so they don't look took so dirty. Its a temporary fix of course - but it will get you to your destination and back safely, and can tide you over until you find your permanent solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16502" LastEditorUserId="16502" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T15:09:15.763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T15:09:15.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28259" CreationDate="2016-04-16T23:17:28.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long wait fellas, but after banging my head for a few days,  I finally figured out what was the issue. It wasn't injector problem nor the fuel pump. It turned out to be a BMW clamp that got loose and pressure popped off the hose it held down inside the gas tank. Look at photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7jiP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7jiP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T23:17:28.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2016-04-16T23:19:26.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get some grip tape and put it on your pedals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=grip%20tape&amp;amp;oq=grip%20tape&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1471j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grip tape&lt;/a&gt; will allow you to use your pedals even if your shoes and wear we and give the traction you need to prevent your feet from slipping off of them when you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip tape is used on the decks of watercraft and boats as well as the tops of skateboards to accomplish the same goals you have, more friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a pair of scissors and apply a few strips of the tape to each pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip tape is often used on pedals in racing vehicles to accomplish the same task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find this to be VERY effective.  I do this on all my vehicles and have been very satisfied with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSGJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSGJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T23:19:26.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2016-04-17T02:53:04.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three Wranglers, and there are plenty of places on them to squeak, and not all of them have grease nipples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common places that will cause a squeak on the Wrangler, in order of likeliness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track Bar bushings (rubber bushings, no grease point) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie rod ends at the axle (usually grease points at both ends)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag Link (usually greasable at both ends)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower Control arm mounts (rubber bushings at both ends, not greasable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upper Control arm mounts (rubber bushings at both ends, not greasable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sway bar links (rubber bushings at both ends, not greasable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sway bar bushings (located on the frame, not greasable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower Shock mounts (rubber busings, not greasable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shocks (Could be dirt behind the boot, or your shocks are shot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Springs can sometimes rub against the spring perch causing a squeak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive shaft boot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The track bar, drag link, control arms, shocks, springs and sway bar all move when your suspension travels, so they're all suspect. Check the axle ends first, as they are most exposed to water that can wash away grease. For the greasable ones, use your grease gone and grease them, for the others, you'll have to remove the bolt, apply grease to the rubber bushing and reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U-joints can squeak when they get older, but that usually causes a rotational sound, as will a bad wheel bearing or brake issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's none of those things, it could also be a simple as a loose bolts in your bumper or somewhere else that's allowing to parts that shouldn't move to rub against with heavy movement, but given it's happening at slow speeds, I'd check those tie rod ends and bushings first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T02:53:04.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17480" CreationDate="2016-04-17T03:07:28.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a similar problem with my 2007 xcountry. Thought it was a couple of accessories that I put on the bike. So many issues with starting when I travelled a short distance, then stopped the bike. Put in new battery, didn't fix the problem. Changed to a lithium battery on the bike which fixed the problem or at least I am not having that issue any more. It usually occurred if I was going for a ride, decided to stop at shops, get petrol nearby, it wouldn't start. Felt like there wasn't enough charge left in the battery to start until I'd ride awhile. Lithium battery works a treat for me and my G650&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16506" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:07:28.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5781" CreationDate="2016-04-17T03:30:28.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like one of the spark plug wires isn't fully seated. I would check both ends of each cable and make sure they're fully seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine code it produced should give you some idea where to start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0300 - Random or multiple misfires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0301 - Misfire on cylinder 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0302 - Misfire on cylinder 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0303 - Misfire on cylinder 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0304 - Misfire on cylinder 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0305 - Misfire on cylinder 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0306 - Misfire on cylinder 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the code is P0300, it could be many things, but usually indicates a compound problem such as improper firing order or multiple unseated plug wires among others. If the error is cylinder specific, check that spark plug (the plug wires are usually numbered if you don't know which is which). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Facing the engine from the front:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1, 3, 5, are on the left, front to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2, 4, 6, are on the right, front to back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find one that's improperly seated, check them all, just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:30:28.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28043" CreationDate="2016-04-17T03:44:35.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest test to perform, as Ben pointed out is to use a multimeter to measure the voltage to ground. In case you're not familiar with automotive electric systems, most metal on a car is grounded, but even that can be tricky because sometimes the metal is attached to plastic or painted, especially in the interior. I would recommend using the outer edge of your lighter plug. That usually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the voltage is 12V, or close to it the trim is electrified to the car electrical system. Since you say it happens when the door is open, or when the vehicle is running, then my guess would be the trim has been shorted to some interior lighting circuit, possibly some accent lighting underneath or near the trim bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T03:44:35.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28381" CreationDate="2016-04-17T04:34:33.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The design nomenclature in the motorcycling community is called '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle%20mono%20shocks&amp;amp;biw=1344&amp;amp;bih=740&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi19M6-qJTMAhUB_WMKHYaaBtIQsAQIIw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mono-shocks&lt;/a&gt;'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mono-shocks are essentially a design extension of the desire to reduce unsprung weight.  Unsprung weight is merely the weight of the suspension that IS NOT carried by the springs.  In other words, it's the weight the springs need to get back on the ground when and undulation compresses the system while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different configurations of this feature over time.  Various manufacturers named their suspension solutions.  For example, Suzuki during the 80's and early 90's called their mono-shock system the &lt;em&gt;Full Floater&lt;/em&gt; suspension.  The first road example in their line-up with this configuration was the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=1983%20suzuki%20gs750es&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjLjI2_rJTMAhVJ-2MKHWy5DEgQsAQIHA&amp;amp;biw=1344&amp;amp;bih=740&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1983 GS750E and ES&lt;/a&gt; models.  This design was further popularized by it's use in Grand Prix Motorcycle Road Racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notice how the lower shock eye 'floats' in the linkage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/batjB.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/batjB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other manufacturers have various configurations, the &lt;em&gt;Full Floater&lt;/em&gt; is simply an example of one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Benefits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple benefits to the mono-shock configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame Reduction - The rear frame component beneath the rider can become a bolt on component and only needs to support the riders weight.  It no long requires the strength and rigidity required to deal with the forces traveling through the swingarm from the road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced Sprung Weight - The reduction in frame components due to the differences in shock location and mounting can greatly reduce chassis sprung weight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tuning Flexibility - The shock compression ratio can be tuned on floating configurations with various linkage lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uniformity of Compression - A single shock is in charge of the rate of compression using various dampening and spring rate configurations.  There is a school of thought in the MC world that believed the dual rear shocks were required to match one another in order to prevent the rear wheel from canting in the swingarm under hard cornering.  If this issue existed, I believe it does, it's no longer a point of contention in the newer configuration of a monoshock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced unsprung weight.  A single shock of unsprung weight as opposed to two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trend&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not statistical analysis on the subject that I can find but of the entire 2016 Suzuki Motorcycle model lineup of 51 vehicles there are two models that have the legacy dual shock system.  Of the entire 1982 lineup of Suzuki street motorcycles, none of the models had a mono-shock.  So it is a trend with almost all manufacturers that tout modern technology in their model lines.  The dual shock configuration is considered legacy technology and is usually only seen on very low cost, low power models in a manufacturer's lineup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T04:34:33.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28269" CreationDate="2016-04-17T04:59:06.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your procedure for bleeding is fine, except for the banjo bolt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bleed a line at the banjo bolt but you can't bleed a caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get your stuck nipple off if you break the head by using a bolt extractor.  If you use a bolt extractor and have to drill it out in any way you will NEED to disassemble the caliper to ensure it does not have any metal shavings in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two effective brake bleeding tools are speedbleeders or vacuum evacuation tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*Here is a speedybleeder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCPtp.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCPtp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is handheld vacuum pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPfje.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPfje.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T04:59:06.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28542" CreationDate="2016-04-17T07:37:04.333" Score="8" ViewCount="4548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Already having replaced 2 fuel pumps, both died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to have a problem in somewhere (alternator, battery, electricity) or I have no luck for fuel pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last one, last 6 months, before died completely, it start making a loud noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Dodge Charger SRT8 2009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On both fuel pump connectors there is a burned corner pin. No one in garage can tell me what is wrong with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRC5E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRC5E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuel pump connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got an idea what can it be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**** &lt;strong&gt;UPDATED QUESTION&lt;/strong&gt; ****&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after having tested an electricity, everything was fine, except that battery is about to die, but that's not a case. Alternator works fine, relay is fine, cable management should be fixed for the fuel pump, but that's just for a better future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was: Somehow the fuel tank was extremely dirty, fuel pump engine died completely and the whole left part of fuel pump assembly was dirty, fuel pump filter was almost totally black from that dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUWWR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUWWR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUjSI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUjSI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think to go back to the garage where they previously cleaned my fuel tank, to do it in a proper way. In a meanwhile I have to order a new fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: is that possible that a dirt could make a pin to be burned ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12366" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:06:45.823" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T12:34:52.613" Title="Two Fuel Pumps died" Tags="|electrical|starting|fuel-system|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T10:07:14.610" Score="9" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Hyundai CRETA/ ix25 model... clocked 1800kms on the odometer, diesel spec engine 1.6 crdi unit, manual transmission! It has redline at about 4800rpm in the tachometer. When i took it for service! the idiotic mechanic FREE REVVED the engine upto 4000rpm for 2-3 times:@ both in neutral and in running the vehicle with clutch in ... i've heard that free revving an engine damages it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt really annoyed.  Does it eat up engines life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried!...Please help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16509" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T16:04:15.143" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:37:18.927" Title="Does free revving a diesel engine to 4000 rpm (1.6 crdi- hyundai) cause any damage?" Tags="|engine|diesel|hyundai|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T10:30:49.387" Score="6" ViewCount="2160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm more specifically interested in performance vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current car has gauges for coolant temperature, oil temperature and oil pressure. The coolant temperature gauge is there so you can tell whether coolant temperature is too high so you know whether you should cease driving. In some modern cars, this is simply replaced with a warning message when the temperature gets too high telling you to pull over. This makes sense for regular vehicles, and also performance derivations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a performance vehicle oil temperature is a better guide for deciding whether the car is ready to be driven enthusiastically. Even without the oil temperature display, this can be estimated by waiting for the coolant to reach normal level and then leaving it a few more minutes, the amount of time depending on current weather conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some modern performance vehicles have neither a coolant display nor an oil temperature display. This is obviously a deliberate design decision. Are manufacturers of performance vehicles confident that their engines will not suffer permanent damage being driven on cold oil? What is the rationale behind this decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that modern engines and modern oils can much better cope with cold conditions, that this is no longer an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T12:50:56.127" Title="Why do modern vehicles omit a temperature gauge?" Tags="|oil|coolant|performance|gauges|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28467" CreationDate="2016-04-17T10:34:16.697" Score="6" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Citroën BX has various ride heights since it works on hydropneumatic suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How safe / smart would it be to drive using the lowest height VS the medium ride height? pics for comparison &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Io1XI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Io1XI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:56:35.260" Title="Hydropneumatic suspension ride height" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28453" CreationDate="2016-04-17T11:27:37.743" Score="8" ViewCount="3996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck between choosing a car available in both automatic transmission (CVT) and Manual transmission (6 speed). I wanted to know which one will perform better in the following aspects (considering the fact that all the other factors are the same only the transmission system is different):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel economy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I know the difference between normal AT and CVT my question is about CVT and MT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS2. The cars I want to buy is Renault Fluence 2.0 CVT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:46:14.830" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T22:46:14.830" Title="Do Manual transmission cars perform better than Automatic transmission?" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28449" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:50:56.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your sample may just be non-representative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the ones I know (I'm mostly into Japanese performance cars) have oil temps. Even many non-performance cars have an indicator that goes out once the engine is up to temperature (such as my wife's Honda Jazz)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think cars like the M135i have some cost based design decisions in order to meet their price point - it's only an entry level performance car. But for a car like that it doesn't really matter - the ECU will control attempts to push too far out of standard envelope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T12:50:56.127" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:56:56.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference comes down to the driver. While automatic racing gearboxes can beat a driver when it comes to performance, for the type of vehicle you describe, a manual can perform significantly higher than an automatic &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; the driver knows how to use it. But then if you really wanted high acceleration you would choose a different car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance is much cheaper on manual gearboxes as they are much less complex, but if the driver doesn't know what they are doing then they can chew up clutches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel economy is close between the two - am automatic can be consistent at saving fuel by short shifting in situations where acceleration is not needed, but again, a good driver can always change at the most appropriate point for what is coming, so can be in the correct great at all times - which can save mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL/DR&lt;/strong&gt; it depends. If you are experienced with a manual, get a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T14:23:19.220" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T14:23:19.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28447" CreationDate="2016-04-17T13:04:01.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voltage drop the ground side pin 4 with the car running. I'd suspect a poor ground is the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also scope the power side by removing the fuse and putting a wire loop in place. Connect a low amp probe. Since the fuse is rated @ 20A you should expect to see 8-10A if it's drawing more amps than that suspect a short to ground or a bad ground or corrosion in a connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T13:04:01.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28530" CreationDate="2016-04-17T13:17:29.220" Score="6" ViewCount="3564" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all sorry for my english. &#xA;I have a Golf mk4 1.4 16v 2 doors&#xA;There are about two weeks that it started to make this click when i try to open the window and it just wont open.&#xA;I tryed to contact some store that have used parts and i asked for the window motor. They asked me if my car have 2 or 4 doors, and when I told them that have 2 doors they said no we dont have. Now im looking for the part on ebay but i dont know whats the difference between. The windows motor looks the same. This is the part i found on ebay but im not sure if it gonna work with my car.&#xA;Does anyone know if there are differences between a front left motor for a 4-door golf or a front left motor for a 2-door golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLnxo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLnxo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1J2959801D FRONT LEFT WINDOW GOLF MK4 MOTOR VW&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16287" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T07:37:09.093" Title="Golf MK4 Window Motor Click and Window wont open" Tags="|vw|golf|power-windows|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1566" CreationDate="2016-04-17T19:16:31.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 97 Mercury Tracer doesn't use a Fuel Rail Pressure sensor and any reading you're getting from your OBD2 application is false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you believe that the fuel pressure is low, hook up a fuel pressure gauge and verify before replacing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to Brian Knoblauch's answer for potential causes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T19:16:31.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T00:37:24.337" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently crashed my Lexus ls400 and damaged the ac condenser, I don't really want to waste cash on it what can I do to cancel AC system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16523" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T00:43:17.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T15:14:50.787" Title="1991 lexus ls400 v8 AC condenser removal" Tags="|ac|lexus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28461" CreationDate="2016-04-18T00:43:01.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't need the A/C, just leave everything where it's at. You may want to fix it in the future, so if everything is there, all you have to do is fix what's wrong and there you are. The pulley will spin freely, so no big deal there. If the refrigerant is all out of the system, it won't attempt to turn on. It's just a little bit of unused weight in the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T00:43:01.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24719" CreationDate="2016-04-18T03:28:09.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was doing drag racing, one guy on our bulletin board died because his jack failed.&#xA;This stuff does happen and the risk is real. As everyone said before: Use jack stands, and if you don't have any: go buy some. They're cheap and your life is worth a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16525" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T03:28:09.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T03:45:11.703" Score="4" ViewCount="2828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just this morning I drove the car for about 50 miles with no problems at all.  At around 6pm, I entered and tried to start the car, but it wouldn't start: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were &lt;strong&gt;loud, weird clicking noises while I tried to start the engine&lt;/strong&gt;, and the odometer seemed to be reset (trip A, trip B, not the total one). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;the speedometer and the oil gauge oscillated&lt;/strong&gt;. (Please see video.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;the car seemed to stop being responsive to my power keys&lt;/strong&gt;, which definitely still have battery (judged by the small signal light on the key ring).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ttcblhk4d97trs5/AABfgaMa8hJyWAyAyK3muWgpa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ttcblhk4d97trs5/AABfgaMa8hJyWAyAyK3muWgpa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problems?  I have little to no experience fixing cars; how should I get someone to help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car is 2002 Honda Civic.  ~120k miles.&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm the second owner, owned it for about three years now, never seen this problem.  Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16526" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T05:09:24.413" Title="2002 Honda Civic suddenly not starting (with clicking noises) &amp; not responsive to power keys" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28464" CreationDate="2016-04-18T05:09:24.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle battery is not supplying enough power to run the starter. Test the battery and the connections and cables. The video is most helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clicking is caused by the starter trying to turn and then shutting off due to lack of volatage and this process repeats over and over as long as the key is held in the start position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T05:09:24.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28450" CreationDate="2016-04-18T06:23:28.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go ahead and answer my own question since I recieved some help from a Xantia driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest syspension setting turns off the system and leaves your car with 0 suspension wich is highly unrecommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's inteded for servicing and liquid flushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand higher ride heights can be used to drive although the highest setting is exclusively for low speeds and clearing obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T06:56:35.260" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:56:35.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28410" CreationDate="2016-04-18T06:40:07.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: no - not without the manufacturer's diagnostic tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is: maybe.  Modern cars have most (if not all) exterior and interior lights controlled by the body control module (BCM).  Most (if not all) switches are connected to the BCM as well.  This provides a lot of flexibility.  A prime example is if you leave your headlights or interior lights on, the BCM can override and turn them off after a timeout to prevent a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting example is the way turn signals operate.  In older cars, switching the turn signal on would close a circuit from the battery to a component with a spring in the path.  This spring would expand from the heat as current passed through it. Once it expanded enough, it would open the circuit, and as it cooled down, it would shrink and close the circuit again. This in operation generated a clicking sound that we're all too familiar with.  Software in the BCM of modern vehicle's control the turn signals, and the &quot;clicking&quot; sound is simulated (usually by a transducer in the instrument cluster). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to control (or actuate) the lights via the OBDII port by issuing an &quot;input/output control&quot; diagnostic command (as defined in ISO-14229 Unified Diagnostic Services) with the ID of the light you want to control.  The problem is finding this ID, as they are vehicle manufacturer specific. Only the official diagnostic software/hardware from the manufacturer contains this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible to brute force the IDs by sending the IO control command for every possible ID in the system supplier specific range (which is around 500 IDs). This would take a lot of knowledge, time, and effort - but is not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16528" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T06:40:07.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29808" CreationDate="2016-04-18T07:19:28.157" Score="8" ViewCount="2390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm riding a Honda CB600F Hornet built 2006 (last model with carbs). I put it away for the fall/winter about 6 months ago. This week I was doing the maintenance, cleaned the brakes, lubed cables, synchronized carbs, changed the oil etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed accidently I could put it into gear (first, second etc.), &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; using the clutch, &lt;strong&gt;while running.&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously this isn't right, so I checked cable freeplay, tried readjusting, didn't really make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some fiddling around (possibly due to cable adjustment?) I can't put it into first gear at all anymore (not even with clutch), but I goes up to 4th &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; the cluth again. 5th and 6th won't work at all. If it shifts, it will stay in gear though, so the clutch isn't slipping. Is it sticking? I'm thinking of opening the transmission and checking the plates etc. but I'd rather avoid this if another option is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very strange situation, I'm not sure what can be causing this, especially because I didn't have this problem when I put it away for the winter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be the transmission plates that need replacing? I'm sure I put in the correct amount and type of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:  To clarify, this behavior occurs while the engine is running&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16529" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T17:15:24.600" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:09:39.900" Title="What can cause my motorcycle to shift into gear (but not all of them) without using the clutch?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|clutch|shifting|cb600|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T08:50:11.313" Score="8" ViewCount="2192" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 02 Buick LeSabre has oil coming from the radiator into the coolant reservoir. Just recently I had a new motor put in to fix the issue. What would be the best/proper way to flush the radiator? It has a new water pump and thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16524" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T11:10:29.957" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T17:54:14.393" Title="How to flush engine coolant system after oil intrusion" Tags="|engine|coolant|buick|lesabre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-04-18T09:51:08.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will answer the question in simple terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acceleration:&lt;/strong&gt; CVT Does not have a gears and are usually single speed, so if you want to abruptly accelerate the CVT will not be as efficient as a manual transmission, the most common problem of CVT is the rubber-band effect where you push the accelerator and after a pause and acceleration increases suddenly. Ergo, a CVT will not outrun a manual transmission at all. Manual is by far a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Economy:&lt;/strong&gt; In the hands of 90% of the public the CVT will generally be more efficient than the manual transmission , this is the reason we are seeing a lot of CVTs now a days, they offer better gas mileage and hassle free driving with the disadvantage in acceleration and performance which is just about the normal requirements of a daily commuter. Now in the hands of a seasoned manual driver, he can extract as much or even more gas mileage than the CVT but its generally not worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance:&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously the manual will be the best , fewer parts fewer wear and tear and fewer maintenance. Plus any wear on a manual gearbox will cost very less when compared to repairs on a CVT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CVT only provides really two things: Good Economy and the joy of a automatic transmission in bumper to bumper traffic, so if the purpose of the car is strictly going to be commute in the city then the CVT is the better option but in every other aspect the manual is the best also the manual gearbox weighs a little bit less reducing the overall weight of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: IF most of your driving is going to be on the express way/highway then save yourself some money and get a manual because in the express way manual can give equal or even better gas mileage and you wont have to worry about constantly shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, A CVT variant of the car will also cost more upfront. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T09:51:08.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28475" CreationDate="2016-04-18T11:49:47.837" Score="9" ViewCount="6226" Body="&lt;p&gt;In traditional halogen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/H4-Bulbs-Diagram.jpg&quot;&gt;H4 bulbs&lt;/a&gt; the low beam filament (the one with the reflector/shield) point in a 180 degree field and the high beam has no shield and has a full 360 degree coverage. This is how all H4 light assemblies are designed to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why then are there no H4 LED bulbs which use this layout?&lt;/em&gt; They all have terrible design or are only designed for low beams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually that's not being fair, Phillips have a product that does this, but they are quite pricey. &lt;strong&gt;400AUD&lt;/strong&gt; pricey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16512" LastEditorUserId="16512" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T12:46:13.730" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T02:52:49.483" Title="Why are H4 LED headlights not designed correctly?" Tags="|headlight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28470" CreationDate="2016-04-18T12:30:02.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flush it out with a hose (ordinary garden hose will do fine), backwards - so that the water flows though in the opposite direction to which it would do in normal operation. Generally they flow from top to bottom, so you want to flush it from bottom to top - it's often easiest to take the rad out and turn it upside-down for this. Keep going until the water comes out clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T12:30:02.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22798" CreationDate="2016-04-18T12:38:42.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely causes of a problem like this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A failed bulb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A poor or failed earth (this often results in the wrong lamp lighting up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A broken wire in the harness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the bulb should always be your first task, as these are cheap and (usually) easy to replace. Tracking down poor earths or broken wires requires a bit of work, a multimeter and some spare lengths of wire can help to narrow down the culprit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T12:38:42.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28472" CreationDate="2016-04-18T12:41:44.480" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you hit it. Cost, most of the LED headlights are made to just pack as many LED as possible into the H4 package as possible, but a small percentage of them are actually designed to mimic the H4 fillament. Most of the cheap LED bulbs aren't DOT certified, so look for the certified ones, they give you better performance. I'd recommend a brand, but you're already aware of the Phillips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T12:41:44.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28485" CreationDate="2016-04-18T12:59:48.363" Score="12" ViewCount="4405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a little dent pulling kit that uses glue on tabs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q3zNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q3zNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As can be seen, the tabs come in many shapes and sizes, and different surface textures; some have a ribbed surface, while others of a dimple in center or a canal like thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I choose the right shape, size and texture?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use regular, hobby store hot glue with this, or do I need special hot glue sticks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T13:24:03.997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T22:57:27.907" Title="How to Use Glue on Dent Puller Tabs" Tags="|body-work|dent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28489" CreationDate="2016-04-18T13:09:04.183" Score="12" ViewCount="2842" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right after fixing another problem with one of my cars ( 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L ), I revved the engine and all of a sudden heard the tell tale hiss of a coolant leak:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZB5fk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZB5fk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, this hose just sprang a leak.  Not a big deal, it's probably the original hose, and almost 18 years old.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,  I've had &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/19536/7132&quot;&gt;three different hoses&lt;/a&gt; go like this in a short period of time, just a few hundred kilometers of driving ( all on the hot side between the heater core and radiator ).  Now, I've already replaced the thermostat, which was stuck shut and to which I attributed the previous two hose leaks, but this new leak has got me worried that maybe something else is causing pressure build up in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no noticeable overheating, and I'm using a 1.1 radiator cap ( WSM calls for between 0.95 - 1.25 ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reasonably attribute this to old hoses and coincidence, or should I be looking for some other problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T02:28:57.287" Title="Should Multiple Coolant Hose Leaks in a Short Time Worry Me?" Tags="|cooling-system|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26518" CreationDate="2016-04-18T13:13:25.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;245/50r16 tyres are 30mm (just over 1&quot;) wider than 215/70r15. More of a difference is the diameter - 215/70r15 gives 26.85&quot; or 682 mm, 245/50r16 is 25.65&quot; or 651mm - just over 1&quot;, or 4.5% smaller - your speedometer will over-read by nearly 5%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also bear in mind that you'll need new wheels for the 16&quot; tyres (though that might be the whole reason you're asking?), so make sure they will fit correctly - check the offset and PCD (bolt pattern) of the new wheels before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T13:13:25.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28479" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-18T13:28:40.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T13:28:40.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T13:28:40.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28480" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-18T13:28:40.263" Score="0" Body="Dents are places on the body where the material has been physically deformed, usually due to impact from another hard material. Many times, the dent can be pulled back out without doing any damage to the body, and restoring the surface to the original look." OwnerUserId="1743" LastEditorUserId="1743" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T14:07:57.983" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T14:07:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2016-04-18T13:59:34.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe (and this is a gut check) you can chalk this up to deteriorated hoses which all have gone bad in the same period of time (coincidence). Each has probably served a long fruitful life and now it's time for replacement. Especially considering where you live and overheating as well, this does not seem unreasonable to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest if you have any other hoses which have yet to be replaced, you take care of it. I don't think there is a systemic issue which is going to cause new hoses to rupture again (considering your description). There is no way I could guarantee this behavior (obviously), but considering the history, I'd say after new hoses the vehicle should be in pretty good shape from this aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T15:58:02.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T15:58:02.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T14:02:45.000" Score="7" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly an OEM kinda guy. But the original hubcaps on my Citroen BX are horrible from any point of view. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fgWy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fgWy.png&quot; alt=&quot;hubcaps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I was thinking of replacing them with rims but I have no idea what I should be looking for.&#xA;I was told all I need to take into account was the diameter and I think mine are 14&quot;.&#xA;But I'm trying to gather info and it looks like I should take into account Pitch Circle Diameter too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case how should I start looking for rims or is searching on any online shop for &quot;14 inch rims&quot; sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how can I measure or find in a manual or online my measurements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T20:04:32.733" Title="What to take into account when looking for rims" Tags="|wheels|replacements|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28348" CreationDate="2016-04-18T14:06:17.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular service and fixing what's broken will keep just about any car running for a long time. The main difference with driving short distances, is that your engine spends more time at less than optimal temperature.  This is not as big a deal with modern fuel injection engines, but parts may still wear out faster than vehicles with mostly 'highway miles.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Things to check every couple weeks&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire tread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Signs of obvious damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any abnormalities here, take your car to the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Things to be done at regular intervals as indicated by your owner's manual&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter changes (fuel, air, cabin, transmission)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs, wires, cap rotor (if applicable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt/chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel injector cleaner (at least once a year)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more, but these are most important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Things to be done 'when necessary'&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be checked every time it is at the mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires - tread too shallow, or unrepairable leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension - shocks, bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, cv joints, driveshaft, wheel bearings, engine mounts, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes - a good indicator is a squeal when breaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sensors - should throw a check engine light if anything is wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine seals - usually results in oil loss&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling system - usually results in coolant loss or overheating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust - cat, muffler, resonator, pipes.  Usually gets louder if anything fails.  Will throw a check engine light if the cat is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights - head lights, tail lights, indicators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a list of the primary things to look for, but basically, replace anything that breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;As a side note&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easier you drive your car, the less stress you put on the parts, and the longer the parts will last.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The main difference between a POS and a decent car that just seems to run forever is the maintenance.  Most times a POS is a dirty car with broken parts that the owner doesn't care to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="7356" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T13:37:08.320" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T13:37:08.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2016-04-18T14:13:07.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to know the diameter (in inches) and width (also in inches, often written with a J - so 4J x 14 would be a 4&quot; x 14&quot; wheel), the PCD (pitch circle diameter, or bolt pattern), which is stated as NxM, where N is the number of bolts and M is the diameter in mm of a circle going through them all, e.g. 4x100, the centre bore (the size of the hole in the middle, in mm), and the offset (how far in/out the wheel sits relative to the hub, again in mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to go is to find wheels sold to fit your particular car, or one known to be the same (owners club forums often have threads devoted to &quot;what wheels will fit&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PCD and bore have to match, the others can often vary slightly, for example some 15&quot; wheels will probably fit your car, and slight differences in offset may not matter, as long as they don't cause the tyres to rub on the suspension or the inside of the arches. It's worth trying one of the wheels (with a suitable size tyre fitted) on the car before committing to buy, to make sure it fits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T14:13:07.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28476" CreationDate="2016-04-18T14:44:08.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of dent-pulling like sculpting. Examine the area you need to work on. The wide creased pads will create a pinched like pull, while others will create rounder or more narrow pulls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How do I choose the right shape, size and texture?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Study the surface around the dent. Make sure you understand the panels geometry. For body lines you will want to use your creased pullers, and orbitals for your rounded sections. It's all situational depending on the panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal moves in certain ways. If you have a considerable sized dent, you may need to use a wider pad to do the initial pulls and then move onto smaller ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;dimples&quot; you speak of are so that area does not get pulled. It allows you to touch that surface with a smaller pad to further shape the panel. Similarly, the &quot;textures&quot; allow the metal to move in a way displayed by the pad and can aid in smoothing out ripples in the metal where further planishing will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Can I use regular, hobby store hot glue with this, or do I need special hot glue sticks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use glue that is recommended by the kits manufacturer or at the very least the correct glue for the material it is being applied to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T14:44:08.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28461" CreationDate="2016-04-18T15:14:50.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things in addition to Paulster's answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to completely remove the A/C compressor, go to a shop first and have them drain the refrigerant.  Do not let it vent into the atmosphere.  Even if the system is not working, there is likely a little bit left.  You do not need to remove the compressor, leaving it will not hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the belt configuration, you may be able to either run without the A/C belt, or get a shorter belt that does not wrap around the A/C pulley.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T15:14:50.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T16:10:41.003" Score="3" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After braking car at a stop light, or any where else, it &quot;faints&quot;, does not die, since it re-starts by itself after a few seconds. But until it re-starts, it does not respond when stepping on the gas. Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16533" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T16:26:32.503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T16:26:32.503" Title="Engine stops and re-starts by itself" Tags="|toyota|sequoia|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T17:20:02.370" Score="6" ViewCount="4417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Ford Focus ZX4 LE&#xA;2.0 engine. &#xA;This is on my Android so bullet points are not available. &#xA;But I would explain as good as I can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The problem I have is when I drive anywhere either on the highway or regular road.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The brakes would get tight and make my speed diminish quickly. It doesn't happen often. Once in a while usually happens in the heat during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that the brakes get tight like it doesn't know my foot is off the pedal and still brakes slowly &#xA;When it hits 40 it would advance more than that. If it does I would be forcing the transmission but when it goes over 50 then when I let go of the accelerator goes back down quick (could cause an accident if someone is tailgating me )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brake pedal is hard when this happens &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-doesn't go more than 40 if I let go of the accelerator it would slow down quick like if I were braking &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-this happened recently my mechanic said the wheel baring or &quot;arm&quot; he called it is loose making a click sound when I hit a pothole I'm not sure if that could be the cause &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-smoke comes out of the brakes when I'm driving I'm guessing because of the friction &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-my mechanic gave up on me and my car xD &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've changed the caliper , breaks and even the brake disk two times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;could it be the brake line ? Or the caliper isn't on correctly ? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16535" LastEditorUserId="16538" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T19:10:28.603" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T12:03:29.720" Title="Brakes getting tight on their own" Tags="|ford|brakes|maintenance|focus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2016-04-18T17:46:57.860" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Remember that the reliability of any system of components will only be as strong as the weakest link.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coolant lines are pressurized under regular operation and the walls of the hoses will weaken with many, many heat cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is expected that a coolant leak will spring at the weakest point of the system. The moment you replace this hose, the weakest point will shift to some other location (likely another hose). This is why it seems like one hose fails after another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T17:46:57.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28470" CreationDate="2016-04-18T17:54:14.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=coolant%20flush%20kit&amp;amp;oq=coolant%20flush%20kit&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0l6.2847j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;coolant flush kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add a 'T' to one of your radiator hoses that allow you attach a garden hose to your cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have added the 'T' to your system you can run your car and the garden hose simultaneously in order to fully circulate the fluid in your cooling system as well as flush out all of the contents of the system to ensure that any oil in it is completely removed from the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T17:54:14.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2016-04-18T18:24:30.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A leaking head gasket can lead to exhaust pressurizing the cooling system. This will generally fail the current weakest link in your cooling system. As you replace one component, the next weakest component will fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16537" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T18:24:30.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19712" CreationDate="2016-04-18T18:43:06.533" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.. Max torque is not the max force you will have available to accelerate your vehicle at any vehicle speed. that point happens at max HP.&#xA;Efficiency means how much you got out for how much you put in.. For most high performance engines, that points to the high HP levels, again, not max torque.&#xA;At the point of max HP you are burning the most amount of air and fuel possible, the most potential energy consumption is at that point and the greatest rate of doing work (HP) happens at peak HP, not at max torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16539" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T19:01:57.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T19:01:57.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28472" CreationDate="2016-04-18T19:43:22.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue with high-intensity LED's is heat dissipation. Heat is an LED's #1 enemy, regardless of the LED package.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; High-powered LED's that put out about 2 to 5 watts of light each (9 times more than the power they consume) need be be epoxied to an aluminum or copper heat sink, maybe even fan cooled.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; But I see many LED street-lights with LED's burned out, probably due to a poor heat-sink procedures. They did not even last the 5 years expected of them.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; High intensity lights for cars have the problem of &lt;em&gt;no space to dissipate the heat&lt;/em&gt;. I do not think they will compete with quartz-halogen lights until the reflector itself is an array of LED's epoxied to a metal plate. LED's for brake and turn signals will become more common as they can be mounted flat on a metal plate to absorb the heat.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; They have already done this with some high-intensity flashlights, getting the basic engineering right first. LED's can last for 20 to 200 years continuously, if you can keep them cool and not run them at full power.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; ( Based on 100,000 hour MTBF at nominal drive current and temp ambient of 25deg Celsius )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T19:43:22.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2016-04-18T19:53:40.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the correct metrics pointed out by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/28484/12030&quot;&gt;Nick C&lt;/a&gt;, also consider that 14&quot; rims are not your only choice.  Many people choose aftermarket wheels because they want the look of a bigger rim, like a 15&quot; or 16&quot; and lower profile tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking to people in a tire shop, these are known as +1 and +2 sizes.  The rim diameter goes up, and the sidewall of the tire goes down the same amount so the final, total diameter is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the way this set-up looks, consider it, but also consider the price of the new tire size.  Some people jump into a larger rim not realizing that the new tire size they need is more rare or is considered a &quot;sport&quot; tire and is much more expensive.  I've done a +1 on two cars, but in my opinion, +2, +3, or more looks too extreme and the tires get expensive quickly (on my two cars anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T19:53:40.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2016-04-18T20:04:32.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another factor is that if you go for wheels which are significantly larger than stock and use low profile tyres to keep the overall tyre diameter the same this can have an adverse effect on ride and handling as the flex of the sidewall can be an important contribution to the dynamic characteristic of the suspension. Similarly retail cas alloy wheels are often heavier than their steel equivalents and may add to the vehicle's unsprung weight. Note that while high performance magnesium alloy wheels are lighter than steel wheels this is not automatically true of all retail 'alloy' wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T20:04:32.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T20:12:04.333" Score="7" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not if someone here has any experience with car radios or if I can even ask diagnosis questions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a dual din DVD player. It's an Absolute DD-3000ADT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem it's having is the display sometimes doesn't turn on when powering the unit up. The button LEDs however do and I get sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll have to keep turning it off and back on again for the display to come on and once it does it works fine as long as it doesn't turn off again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's something internal. It's almost like the power_on command isn't being sent every time or something because everything else works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the display is on it stays on and functions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16330" OwnerDisplayName="ohmmy" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T20:38:28.187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T12:03:50.397" Title="Power on issues - Car radio" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28497" CreationDate="2016-04-18T20:23:12.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to test with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) because there is no way we can help you diagnose an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the dash and test at the harness (picture below of a headunit disconnected from a dash).  Also, when the headunit is removed look for any burns or if the headunit has a blown fuse.  If the back of the headunit has a burn mark it can indicate that you have a short or open wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJNYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJNYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure it has a well rounded connection with no cuts, kinks, pinches.  If you have any open wires it can effect the headunit coming on or short something out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The aftermarket wire harness and your aftermarket vehicle harness does better if it's soldiered and not crimped connections.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRxjX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRxjX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you have crimped connections I would go to radio shack and get head shrink tubing and redo the harness:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePOr8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePOr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Example item on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008WWC6FU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt; for the extreme enthusiast. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the harness to the back of the head unit and test the voltage levels to make sure you don't have a short.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4lvN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4lvN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wire harness colors per Crutchfield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY0F1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY0F1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all fails testing with a DMM then you might have to get a new head unit.  Based on the Absolute Model brand it would appear the reviews indicate it to be not well made but for a price point around 140 usd for the Absolute DD-1000 7-Inch I don't think you could expect much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T12:03:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T12:03:50.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T20:40:53.167" Score="5" ViewCount="4817" Body="&lt;p&gt;2006 Ford Fusion SE Auto. I have it jacked up now ready to do a drain and fill of the ATF fluid but I'm not 100% sure about the drain plug. If you know this car please confirm, is this it in the pic? The plug faces to the rear not down.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOFqG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOFqG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ATF drain plug?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16542" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T19:05:51.820" Title="Is this the ATF drain plug on 06 Ford Fusion (please confirm)?" Tags="|ford|transmission|fusion|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T20:49:09.563" Score="7" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 94 Honda Civic..which is a 5 speed manual..will crank but not start..It will clutch off and runs and drives well after that. I have to pump the clutch several times before it will even start to crank.  I have changed out both of the switches on the clutch housing and even joined the wires together of the lowest switch together. I have changed the battery, fuel pump, fuel relay(the one that mounts near the hood latch), spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor button, and the electronic portion of the ignition switch. Once it jumps off it runs well despite a little surging when it idles( I'll ask for help with the idling problem after I get passed this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16541" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T22:22:48.100" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T04:15:45.323" Title="My 94 Honda Civic..which is a manual..will crank but not start... but it will clutch off" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|civic|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:01:56.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pressure relief valve was (or still is) stuck, as well as the thermostat, quite likely you have weakened all the hoses. Or, they are all dying of old age, though three in quick succession seems an unlikely coincidence. Pragmatically, after 3 failures I would replace all the hoses and clips, plus I would test the relief valve is opening at the correct pressure. If you get more failures after that, then keep looking until you find the root cause of all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T21:01:56.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:15:22.883" Score="77" ViewCount="82389" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a lot of stray cats in my neighborhood and they possess an uncanny ability to know when a car has been cleaned for them to sit on and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, the dirty, dusty paw marks they leave behind is a hassle to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal solution would be to use a car cover, but to use it on a daily driver is highly impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any proven cat-repellent products that are specifically designed for cars? The last thing I want to do is apply some generic household product and damage the paintwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search reveals that some products and techniques do exist, but they are either impractical, provide limited protection or difficult to get hold of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to humane suggestions. No ethylene glycol. No spiked tuna, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T04:42:48.737" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T13:40:35.900" Title="How can I keep stray cats off my car?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="21" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28500" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:16:13.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drain plug will be part of the housing of the transmission. This is the closest image I could find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4V9x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4V9x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;07 Ford Fusion 6 speed auto&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this is not exactly for your car, it's for an '07 Fusion 6 speed auto transmission. So it's not exactly correct, but I'm hoping that the '06 and '07 are close enough that this gets you into the right area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pic and any other info you might want to gain is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2542869/Ford_Fusion_6_speed_auto_drain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2542869/Ford_Fusion_6_speed_auto_drain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is generally a reliable site for information, but it's a forum for that site, so your mileage may vary.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is front wheel drive, so you're going to be looking for the plug on the very bottom of a casing that's going to have the half shafts coming out of it. Look carefully, and you can always post an edit with pics of what you find for confirmation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T05:14:45.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T05:14:45.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8783" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:17:04.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a 2007 hyundai accent that is having the same problem and it would stall all the time and i had to let it sit for a while before it would start. i ask around and a friend told me to check the map sensor. so i got a new one and put it in and had no more problems with the car stalling. so check that and see if that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T21:17:04.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:26:10.370" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as it is common for people to hang plastic owls in trees to scare off birds, you must scare away the cats with a natural fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a popular YouTube video illustrates, cats have a very real fear of Cucumbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRbnr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRbnr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not suggesting that Cucumbers are a natural enemy of cats, or that you place cucumbers all over your car.  Extrapolating the color and shape of the cucumber to a real animal seems to point to a snake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber snakes are cheap and easy to keep in your car.  Placing rubber snakes on the hood and trunk of your car should scare away cats.  They can't see the snake from the ground, so they don't have time to decide it is fake.  As soon as they jump and see it, they will quickly run away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10If4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/10If4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T21:26:10.370" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:39:00.073" Score="8" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent SE with a 1.6 liter engine in it. It was stalling often so I hooked up a code reader and it said the MAP sensor was bad. I tried to check it to see if it might just be dirty, and when I pulled the map sensor out it was wet. When I smelled it, the wet part was gas. I can't figure out how gas could get on my MAP sensor. I have a new MAP sensor but i don't want to put it in until I can figure out why gas is on the old one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T22:23:57.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T10:26:57.950" Title="MAP sensor covered with gasoline" Tags="|troubleshooting|sensor|manifold-absolute-pressure-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-18T21:39:03.970" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put catnip on the hood of a neighboring car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T21:39:03.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28509" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag shows the post relates to a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28510" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" Score="0" Body="Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T22:19:12.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-18T22:31:15.097" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think the real problem is them getting in it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have left your windows open at night and have the joy of cat urine in your car you will understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have heard of story of a cat climbing into an engine compartment at night to stay warm, you will understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat Repellent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cat%20repellent&amp;amp;oq=cat%20repellent&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0l6.2075j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot;&gt;quite a few products&lt;/a&gt; that can repel cats, natural and synthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use these in your wheel wells to prevent them from climbing into the engine compartment and you can roll up your windows at night to keep them out of your car.  If your windows are broken, you have bigger problems to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T22:31:15.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28515" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:02:04.103" Score="16" ViewCount="46371" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some other threads on other websites about cleaning up brake fluid. But I just wanted to get a more organized, concise answer here on SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wanted to confirm that cleaning up brake fluid just requires water and the same detergent you would use to wash clothes. Because brake fluid is water soluble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter the type of brake fluid, does it? (mine is Honda DOT 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the material that the brake fluid is spilled on?  My mess is on some cotton clothes, polyester clothes, and the plastic/vinyl/rubber synthetic material of the cargo tray in Honda cars. (mine was the cargo tray for an Acura RSX)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda cargo tray examples:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/HON-08U45-S6M-200.html&quot;&gt;https://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/HON-08U45-S6M-200.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0096BH8NQ&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-Accessories-08U45-T2A-100-Trunk/dp/B0096BH8NQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16481" LastEditorUserId="16481" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T01:25:06.767" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T15:36:14.037" Title="Cleaning brake fluid (general tips)" Tags="|cleaning|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28507" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:04:10.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I looked online, here's what I found about the location of the MAP sensor in your car. As always, a picture is worth a thousand words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwFcl.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwFcl.gif&quot; alt=&quot;MAP sensor location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at other info about that car it's port injected, not throttle body injected (individual injectors on each cylinder, not just one on the throttle body). As far as I know there should never be fuel in that throttle body. There is one exception that I've been able to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car has a fuel pressure regulator mounted near the fuel rail, it generally activated by vacuum pulled potentially from the throttle body. If the diaphragm in that regulator has a small tear in it, that could cause this issue. But, all of the reading I have been able to find says that your car has a return-less system (no return, no diaphragm driven FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)) and the pressure regulator is in the tank with the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I did find some reference to a fuel injection pressure damper and your car has one of these. These are mounted on the fuel rail, but don't seem to be vacuum operated devices. They simply smooth out the pressure waves that can exist in your fuel delivery system. I may be wrong about that and maybe they are vacuum operated, but nothing I have found says they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, it seems there is fuel being introduced to the interior of the throttle body, and the most likely cause is a broken barrier that is supposed to keep fuel out of it. Search along the intake path, and see where the fuel starts. Pull the intake hoses from the filter, and see where in the path the wetness from gasoline begins. That should give you a good idea of where the leak is coming from. The path is short, so it should be a short search. You would be looking for something that is connected to both your vacuum and fuel systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. At least some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T23:04:10.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:09:17.857" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes cats will seek out the highest vantage point, so you could try providing a higher perch in the near vicinity (but make sure your car isn't a direct spring-board to the new perch). Perhaps wrap the perch with twine/rope, newspaper, paper bags, cardboard boxes, computer keyboards with fake hands on them, catnip, or other stuff cats like to trample. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'd avoid any tactics that 'scare' the cat away, or risk trading paw prints for claw marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T15:43:58.400" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:43:58.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28512" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:21:56.363" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard automotive brake fluid (DOT 3,4 and 5.1) are made from polyethylene glycol (PEG). PEG is soluble in water, methanol, ethanol, acetonitrile, benzene, and dichloromethane, and is insoluble in diethyl ether and hexane. A long way of saying it will clean up with soap and water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT 5 brake fluid is diorgano polysiloxane (Silicone). It is not soluble in water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be challenging to clean from vehicle interior. Laundry detergent will work fine on the clothes. I prefer something a little more gentle on interiors, such as Dawn brand dish soap.  Brake fluid is so water soluble that not a lot of soap is needed. But a whole lot of water is required to get it all out of porous items such as carpet. On items like carpet we remove it from the vehicle and slowly, gently use a pressure washer.  You might even see the brake fluid take stains out of some fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T23:57:53.593" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T23:57:53.593" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:27:40.250" Score="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place a cardboard box next to your car. If science has told us anything, it is &quot;if they fits, then they sits&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POO9O.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POO9O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cats in a box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16547" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T23:27:40.250" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28518" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:44:57.790" Score="11" ViewCount="14024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a lightly used VW GTI last year, and it has alloy rims&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pD6Q7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pD6Q7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in SoCal, so the weather is pretty fine, but we're moving to the midwest :(.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I plan on buying steel crappy-ugly-only-for-winter wheels and tires?  I know many people in snowy/salty climates swap out wheels in spring and fall, but is it necessary?  Will it drastically (adversely) change the handling of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:41:04.850" Title="What are the pros and cons of having &quot;summer wheels&quot; and &quot;winter wheels&quot;?" Tags="|winter|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28517" CreationDate="2016-04-19T00:24:42.483" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pros and cons of running dedicated summer and winter sets of wheels/tires will depend on individual situations. For what it's worth, I advocate having dedicated summer and winter tires available if the different seasons of your area makes sense to do so. The alternative would be to run all-season tires year round, which I don't recommend, but opinions on that differ from person to person (a rally school I took a winter driving class at continually referred to them as no-season tires since there are no seasons where they are optimal in traction). My experience with running separate winter and summer sets is from the perspective of a (former) New England resident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Benefits of a dual set-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having dedicated summer and winter tires means you maximize your traction during the different seasons. No need to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/features/tire-test-all-season-vs-snow-vs-summer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compromise on traction and conditions with all-season tires&lt;/a&gt;. This is easily the most important factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows you to use the wheels you favor during the summer where the conditions are less harsh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel and tire fitments that better target winter conditions. Typically, narrowing your winter tires will improve traction. Going with a smaller diameter wheel and increasing the sidewall of your tire will also improve ride quality as your tire is now a larger cushion from pothole-filled roads and the extra sidewall height provides more protection to the rim from pothole strikes that you may inadvertently hit. Most who go with a smaller/narrower wheel usually just step down 1 inch in diameter and 10mm in width. Just make sure that going with smaller diameter wheels will still clear your brakes!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both sets of tires will last longer since tread wear is split across both sets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winter traction on the winter tires will last for more miles than all-season tires, which must compromise on winter traction to also allow for decent wet/dry traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawbacks of a dual set-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up-front price.* You need to buy a second set of rims and a second set of tires for the conditions you are targeting (presumably, that would be winter tires). You'll also need a jack** to lift the car so you can swap the wheels, or pay someone to do it for you. This tends to be the primary reason people often stick with running just all-season tires year round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage. You need to store the wheel set you aren't currently using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indecision on matching the tires and conditions. Summer and winter tires have recommended operating ranges for temperatures and conditions. Particular seasonal conditions can put you in a tough spot on which set you should use. What do you do if it's been 50 degrees and sunny and then the forecast calls for 3 days of low 30's and a little snow? At what point in the year do you decide to make the change?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traveling from a location with ideal conditions to another location with potentially inclement weather. For example, if you live in an area that generally sees nice weather and you wish to travel into some mountains where snow is likely, which set do you utilize?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it should be noted some of the cons can be mitigated simply through experience, so the impact of some of them can range from fairly minor to non-existent. Again, that depends on your situation and your location/climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It is up-front because once you've purchased the wheels, they should last until you decide you don't need them anymore. Purchasing the winter tires will, eventually, even out long-term since you are now splitting tire wear across two different sets of tires over the course of a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**I do not recommend using the emergency jack. It is not intended to be used regularly. Getting a proper floor jack with a lift capacity that comfortably covers your needs is highly recommended. For example, I tend to lift the entire front or entire rear of my Subaru Legacy at one time, so my jack's capacity covers more than 50% of my car's total weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T17:41:04.850" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:41:04.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T00:40:45.667" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aim a light sprinkler on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cats don't like slippery surfaces and most dislike water (especially when they are trying to relax)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4325" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:40:45.667" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28522" CreationDate="2016-04-19T01:39:13.410" Score="13" ViewCount="48645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm contemplating whether or not to retrofit my car with a cold-air intake and performance air filter. Will doing so lower the lifespan of my engine? That is to say, increase likelihood of engine repair, relating to the aforementioned alterations, in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16550" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T00:48:42.377" Title="Cold Air Intake and Engine Wear" Tags="|air-intake|air-filter|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-04-19T01:51:25.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will have no affect on the longevity of the engine or components as long as you get one with a decent filter on it. You'll have to check reviews on different elements to ensure you are getting one which is good. We'll not mention which ones &lt;em&gt;I think are better&lt;/em&gt;, as that gets into the realm of both shopping and opinion. In and of themselves, CAI's will not cause any harm to the vehicle's engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T01:51:25.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-04-19T01:54:28.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people think that a cold air intake will generally improve engine performance, allowing fuel to combust at lower temperatures, increasing fuel efficiency. They believe the lower temperature is actually better for the engine. Performance air filters, if you get a good quality one, might typically allow more air flow while reducing foreign particulate that can enter the engine, so might also help improve engine life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that increase in air flow and lower ignition temperature could potentially provide improved performance, and if you take advantage of that performance by driving more aggressively, then you will negate those benefits and shorten engine life. If you maintain a similar driving style, then the engine will benefit from the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T21:40:22.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T21:40:22.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T01:56:44.963" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not want cats (whether stray or otherwise) on your vehicle, conceal it either in a garage or car cover. They can get the car cover as dirty as they want to, but they will not get it onto the vehicle itself. While you say it is impractical, what's more impractical, washing your car every other day or taking two minutes to take the cover off and put it on. To me the choice is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T01:56:44.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2016-04-19T02:28:57.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a stuck or blocked radiator cap. Did you change the cap at any stage?  If the level in the coolant reservoir fails to rise and fall with engine temperature that could be a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16553" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T02:28:57.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28497" CreationDate="2016-04-19T02:33:12.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disregard, I just realized you meant an LCD screen for viewing video, not just a small display showing track/time. The comment below probably doesnt apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments and answers you've received so far are accurate, and it's probably an internal issue, however, some aftermarket decks have an input for dash lighting that controls the brightness of the display along with your dash lighting (dimmer when headlights are on, brighter when they're off). If your deck has this wire,  and you didn't connect it to anything, it could impact the screen brightness unpredictably, especially in more modern decks, where it would be a logical input left floating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions should have told you what to do with it if your vehicle didn't have a matching signal. Usually, you would wire it high, to 12V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T02:33:12.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T02:33:22.843" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are devices on the market that emit ultrasonic waves that drive cats away. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat_repeller#Ultrasonic_devices&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat_repeller#Ultrasonic_devices&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many retailers sell devices which exploit the discomforting effects of&#xA;  in-air ultrasound. These devices are usually combined with a motion&#xA;  sensor which is triggered by movement within the sensors range. This&#xA;  causes the device to emit high frequency noise which is uncomfortable&#xA;  to the cats, and inaudible to most humans (although they can still&#xA;  experience unpleasant subjective effects and, potentially, shifts in&#xA;  the hearing threshold[1]).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These devices work effectively as long as the cat is able to hear. Obviously, older cats with hearing loss may be immune to its effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T02:33:22.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T05:20:01.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tie a Dog next to your car ! (if you have one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16555" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T05:20:01.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T05:55:00.437" Score="7" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have 2 different rims in the back. One is wide and the other is thinner, along with two different size tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It pulls hard to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a way to fix this without having to get matching tires?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've heard as long as the 2 in the back are exactly the same it should drive fine. Is this true?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16556" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T06:25:11.013" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T12:02:19.070" Title="93 325i E36 - help with tires" Tags="|tires|bmw|alignment|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28455" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:37:09.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the central locking.&#xA;I found the parts in very good conditions at a used spare parts store for just 12$ each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys,&#xA;Have a nice day&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I upvoted every comment :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16287" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T07:37:09.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:42:23.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cats like sunshine and warm surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinse the car with cold water to keep the temperature down, make sure you park in the shade and then hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me, I just live with the paw prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15356" LastEditorUserId="15356" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T08:52:25.490" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T08:52:25.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28529" CreationDate="2016-04-19T08:09:25.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the only way to resolve this is to get matching width wheels plus matching sized tyres across the back axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the same sized tyres on different width wheels, the effective surface and sidewall profile shown to the road will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have success trying to find a second hand set of wheels cheaply or even buy an incomplete set that match one of the wheels you already have fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T08:09:25.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28535" CreationDate="2016-04-19T08:31:39.827" Score="7" ViewCount="2073" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car's headlight and dome light flickers when the car is started, but when the car is already moving light is working fine. Other lights works fine, though I wasn't able to check the tail lights and the light in the trunk. Before I start my car, I ensure all lights and A/C are turned-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T08:44:54.157" Title="Headlight and dome light flickers" Tags="|electrical|car|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T08:41:06.390" Score="11" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various black plastic and rubber parts under my hood I would try to make look nice such as my cold air intake box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4X3Ru.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4X3Ru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cleaning it with water that had a little vinegar added to it, which pretty much didn't do anything.  I bought a bottle of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/STP-97211EN-300ml-Son-Protectant/dp/B0046BZ79I/275-3246163-9560237?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;*Version*=1&amp;amp;*entries*=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Son of a Gun Protectant&lt;/a&gt;, but thought I'd ask a little advice before I used it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns are that the product won't cause damage, and won't get me into a never ending cycle of having to apply it every few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT May 5th 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I washed it with regular dish soap, and it seemed pretty dirty still, so then I sprayed and scrubbed it with some purple bottle heavy duty degreaser and scrubbed and rinsed it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZJHx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZJHx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still not perfectly beautiful, but it's pretty decent.  I'm not sure, maybe I'll try the polish stuff on the underside, and then check it after a few weeks to see what it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT March 21st, 2017&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of forgot about this post.  I did in fact use the STP on this part, but I only have a picture of the underside from when I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpBL2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpBL2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do have a picture of it installed probably not too long after I polished it. Don't know that the STP made that noticeable of an additional difference after cleaning it with the degreaser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdwjd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdwjd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'll try and update with a current picture to see what it looks like after almost a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2017-03-21T17:50:09.963" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T17:50:09.963" Title="Cleaning and Shining Black, Under Hood Rubber and Plastic Parts" Tags="|cleaning|detailing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28533" CreationDate="2016-04-19T08:44:54.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very common, and not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are starting your car, the load on the battery is huge compared to when the engine is running, as the starter motor is having to turn the crankshaft and push the pistons while the oil is cold and thick, and additionally compressing air into the cylinders, pumping fuel and causing a spark, while also driving belts, fans, alternator etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the engine is running, the alternator begins to top the battery back up, but to give an indication of how much the battery is loaded during start up, if your alternator fails, you can drain your battery in only a few attempts, especially in cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good practice to have aircon, lights etc. Turned off while starting the car, for this very reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T08:44:54.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28534" CreationDate="2016-04-19T08:53:16.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this easily applied Silicone Lubricant for rubber parts both inside and outside the hood.&#xA;I also squirt it down the slit for the windows to keep my electric windows running smooth.&#xA;It keeps all rubber lubricated, less prone to craks and shiny. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MeKwG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MeKwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lubricant&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T08:53:16.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28507" CreationDate="2016-04-19T10:26:57.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small portion of exhaust gas is sent back to the intake to improve emissions via the EGR hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vehicle is running rich, some fuel will be left unburnt in the exhaust gases. This can explain the wet fuel that you are seeing on the MAP sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this is an indication of bigger engine operability problems. It doesn't surprise me that you're suffering from drivability problems as a consequence. You may want to have the fuel trims inspected. If you share the data on this site we would be happy to help you troubleshoot the problem as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T10:26:57.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28534" CreationDate="2016-04-19T10:56:26.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your climate is anything like where I'm based, the picture shown is a part that is dirty mainly due to fine dust. I would advise against using any sort of chemical product without removing that dust first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the dust, in my experience, there is no decent substitute for the soapy water, toothbrush and elbow grease genre. The end result is usually clean enough for me (this is an engine bay after all!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV protectant never really worked for me. It goes from black to gray very quickly and makes it even more difficult to clean out embedded dirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T10:56:26.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T11:04:01.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy some products intended to stop cats weeing in the house, for example lion urine. Like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.predatorpeestore.com/cat-repellent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wolf Urine liquid and granules from PredatorPee.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silent-Roar-Lion-Manure-Repellant/dp/B0002B7OT2/276-3200873-8172166?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;*Version*=1&amp;amp;*entries*=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silent Roar Lion Manure - Cat Repellant&lt;/a&gt; - It claims &quot;&lt;em&gt;The pellets are soaked in real essence of lion dung, dried and sterilised.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&#xA;As cats are territorial, even the bravest will retreat with they smell a lion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or search for topics entitled: &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&amp;amp;q=How+to+stop+my+cats+urinating+on+the+skirting+boards+of+my+house&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to stop my cats urinating on the skirting boards of my house&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cats compete for territory by group weeing on things they think is theirs, so you may find you are in the same topic as cats weeing on walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14239" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T01:39:15.043" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T01:39:15.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28447" CreationDate="2016-04-19T11:09:10.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirt in the tank could definitely be the cause of the burned pin because the burned pin suggests that the pump was drawing a larger than normal current from that wire.  The pump having to contend with dirt in the tank could mean it was having to work significantly harder than when pumping clean fuel which would be a very good reason for it to draw excessive amounts of electrical current.  This additional current manifest in a significantly hotter temperature in the wiring and connectors and would explain the visual charring on the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T11:09:10.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28529" CreationDate="2016-04-19T12:02:19.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have to replace one or both wheels to make sure you have matching sizes on both sides. Note that in many jurisdictions having non-matching tyres on an axle will fail safety/roadworthyness inspections (or side-of-the-road checks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T12:02:19.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T12:33:34.380" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you a software guy?  Check out the Kurt Grandis video below.  Kurt built a Robotic Squirt Gun to keep Squirrels out of his Bird Feeder.  Its a way cool project.  I think that would work even better for cats on the car.  I'm wondering if you can squirt the cats before they get to the car, but that depends on where its parked, etc... I guess you could also use a large puff of air instead of water.  I think that would do the trick, if your neighbors could stand the weird noises from an air cannon at 2AM... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPgqfnKG_T4&quot;&gt;Video here.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T12:40:20.520" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T12:40:20.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28554" CreationDate="2016-04-19T12:54:52.803" Score="21" ViewCount="2312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently rebuilding a car as a hobby.  As a part of it I am planning on building in a car PC with custom software for some multimedia usage, navigation and some diagnose usage. I know there are pre-built systems to buy and install in the car but thats not what my question is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the PC itself I am planning on using a Raspberry Pi(2) with either Debian or Arch Linux. I will create the software for the audio player, navigation and diagnose by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago a friend of mine told me that a car PC isn't &quot;allowed&quot; to have a visible boot or loading screen. He said that the system has to be available as soon as the car is started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this true?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any requirements for car PCs and the software running on it? And if so, where can I find these requirements?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already tried searching for it but couldn't find anything.&#xA;I am from Germany so i'm primarily interested in answers fitting the german law but i'm open for any information about this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is my first question on SE so please tell me if I did something wrong so I can improve my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16565" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T16:11:57.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T21:11:58.753" Title="Are there requirements for building a car-PC and it's software?" Tags="|diy|computer|navigation|software|electrical|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T13:58:32.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old fashioned stimulus response might do the trick. The cat probably won't like the clunky noise your auto-unlock makes (if your car has this feature). If you wait until the cat is on your car then unlock the doors and repeat this over a few days, then the cats might not like your car so much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16571" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T13:58:32.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28517" CreationDate="2016-04-19T14:03:21.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the answer of Ellesedil. I just want to add some information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you want to look at is the legal requirement in your country. I am from germany. We have the 'optional rule': &quot;O bis O&quot; which means &quot;Oktober bis Ostern&quot; (October till Easter) for the &quot;winter wheels&quot;. By 'optional' i mean that there is no one who will enforce the use of the specific wheels for the season. So you can use the &quot;summer wheels&quot; the whole year. The downside is if you use &quot;summer wheels&quot; in winter and you get in an accident you can additionally get in trouble with your insurance which can get pretty expensive (yes more expensive than an extra set of wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my environment it is common practice to use the expensive good-looking alloy rims in summer and in winter, most people have cheap and ugly steel rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another pro is that you can differ in size of the wheels. I learned from my father, my driving school and my personal experience that thinner wheels work better in winter. So you can use beautiful broad wheels in summer (205-255) which will fit the GTI well and on the other side you can use thinner wheels in winter for a better handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &#xA;Answer to the questions from @nexus_2006 in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The snow and salt should not be too big of a problem if you clean the rims regularly and correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remounting the tires for each season is not a good idea. The increasing cost and the risk of damaging the rims is not worth the price for cheap steel rims. If the cost for the extra set of rims is a real problem you can still use second-hand rims as long as they are not damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ultimate question of cost it is even possible to buy second-hand wheels/tires. But i &lt;strong&gt;strictly do not&lt;/strong&gt; recommend this for safety reasons.&#xA;Buying new tires is cheaper then losing your health/life because of broken tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16565" LastEditorUserId="16565" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T14:48:09.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:48:09.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-04-19T14:10:52.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2012 Volkswagen Golf has an RCD510 multimedia unit which features a touch screen, card slot, USB connector, bluetooth and six disc drive, integrated front and rear parking sensors.  I know that upgrades to this unit are available which include the ability to add integrated video for a rearward facing camera plus there is a version in inbuilt NAV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most likely a close approximation of what you intend to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can personally assure you that it doesn't power up instantly but takes a few seconds to boot up.  During this time a &quot;Welcome to Volkswagen&quot; splash screen is displayed which is presumably covering some kind of console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the UK, the only requirement I can think of is that they do not distract the driver.  To this end, any units which play films will not show them on a screen visible to the driver whilst the handbrake is not engaged.  Also, in the UK it is an offence to operate any handheld, wirelessly connected device such as a mobile telephone whilst driving.  To this end, I guess you need to mount your unit physically on the dashboard and in a way that does not obscure the drivers view of the road or access to other controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably local legislation is slightly different but I would have thought it will be loosely based on the same principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:10:52.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:04:58.487" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is legislation known as &amp;quot;E-Mark&amp;quot; that pertains to electronic devices that are permanently installed in a vehicle.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.in-carpc.co.uk/legislation.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;car PC manufacturer&lt;/a&gt; is UK based and has a great description of the requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to March 2009 the regulations were extremely clear - all equipment installed into a vehicle on a permanent basis was required to be E-mark certified, and it was illegal to drive a vehicle that was fitted with non-compliant equipment.  The regulations were changed in March 2009 and now require only devices related to safety-relevant functionality to be E-mark certified.  Importantly, devices that have the potential to distract the driver are included in the safety-relevant category.  Vehicle computers, which are capable of producing both audible and visual signals, clearly fall under this category and therefore still require E-mark certification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I also stated in my comments, I think that many of these rules and regulations are meant for manufacturers and businesses.  If you want to make &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; computer and install it in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; car, I'm not sure if any of this applies.  You probably need to worry about anything that a police officer would see as an obvious distraction or safety issue like playing movies for the driver or hiding your view of the road or instruments on the dash, but I don't what other technicalities apply to an individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious so I emailed the company quoted above to see what they had to say about someone building a one-off car computer.  They didn't seem to have a definitive answer but this is what they said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your email.  It's my understanding that if a person drives a vehicle with non-approved equipment fitted then they are potentially committing an offense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't comment on how likely you are to run into trouble if it's your own personal vehicle and the equipment was fitted by you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T21:11:58.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:46:43.780" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see this suggested so I thought it would be interesting.  If you have keyless entry you could always look into wiring a train horn to your car.  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-46138?seid=srese1&amp;amp;gclid=CMqNuOqEm8wCFYU2aQodpK0J0w&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;United Pacific Economy Horns&lt;/a&gt; on Summit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/px8F0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/px8F0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;anytime you saw a cat near or around your car you could hit lock and it would fire the horn and send them through the sky.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an alarm system you could always look into purchasing one like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.viper.com/car/keylessentry/product/211hv/viper-1-way-keyless-entry-system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Viper's 1-Way Keyless Entry System&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R56zg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R56zg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and connect the train horn to the aux side.  Positive note, if you ever had someone try to break into your car at night you would surely be awaken by the horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:46:43.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:52:15.407" Score="3" ViewCount="2977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that a flywheel is used to provide inertia. Do motorcycles have them? If not, why don't they have it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="4192" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T19:08:50.373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:08:50.373" Title="Why is a flywheel important to a car?" Tags="|engine-theory|flywheel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-19T16:21:47.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:54:15.950" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little easier to do than building your own. This should keep them away, just remember not to set it off yourself when you leave for work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009F1R0GC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion Activated Sprinkler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcPqE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcPqE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000071NUS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ScareCrow Motion Activated Animal Repellent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G11bC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G11bC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xF4sW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xF4sW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helpfeedthetroll.com/random/15-reasons-you-need-a-scarecrow-motion-activated-sprinkler/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;15 Reasons You Need A Scarecrow Motion-Activated Sprinkler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put a few of these in a safe (dry) location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4wyH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4wyH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:54:15.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28557" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:59:05.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression the purpose of the flywheel was to assist the starter pinion gear to start your motor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lidZr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lidZr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So every time you turn your vehicle the starter motor would rotate the gear which would rotate the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:59:05.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28557" CreationDate="2016-04-19T16:08:48.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flywheel is used to even out impulse, and to store energy (these are both the same thing in reality)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An engine, especially when running slowly (such as when starting) has relatively large impulses from each cylinder firing, but without a flywheel there is very little to keep the crankshaft turning once the sparkplug had fitted and expanded the mixture in a cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the flywheel does is store up the energy of that explosion in rotational energy, driving the crankshaft round to the position for the next explosion, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a heavier mass flywheel takes more energy to move, but it also keeps moving longer so there are pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dual mass flywheel typically has two flywheels, one of which can be declutched and disconnected when not needed (ie when under light load, moving at speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T16:08:48.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28566" CreationDate="2016-04-19T16:35:45.820" Score="37" ViewCount="97703" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24566/what-does-a-flywheel-do-and-what-is-it-connected-to&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; explains what a flywheel does and why it is needed.  That explanation means that the flywheel needs a certain amount of mass to do its job.  However, an &quot;upgrade&quot; for many cars (when looking at performance enhancements) is a &quot;lightweight&quot; flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing weight from a performance car is a normal thing to do, so a lightweight flywheel seems like a good choice, but doesn't it need that mass?  What are the advantages other than sheer weight loss to the upgraded flywheel?  If it was &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; a good thing than the OEM flywheel would be lightweight already, so what are the cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a heavyweight flywheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru2Nv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ru2Nv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultralight flywheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultralight Flywheel for Honda Civic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T08:09:54.233" Title="What are the benefits of a lightweight flywheel and why aren't they lightweight already?" Tags="|engine-theory|performance|flywheel|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:11:38.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenbot.com/article/2914832/11-things-you-need-to-know-about-android-auto.html&quot;&gt;article speaks&lt;/a&gt; to how Android Auto complies with regulations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Google built Android Auto so that it complies with recognized&#xA;  automobile safety standards, including the National Highway Traffic&#xA;  Safety Administration's (NHTSA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems like they've already figured out what needs to be done to conform with existing NHTSA rules. The full Android auto website is at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://developer.android.com/auto/index.html&quot;&gt;http://developer.android.com/auto/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, they have an SDK available for download:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://developer.android.com/training/auto/start/index.html&quot;&gt;http://developer.android.com/training/auto/start/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:11:38.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:36:17.750" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage to a lower flywheel mass on race cars is that the reduced mass allows the engine to rev more freely. The overall weight loss to the car is really not the key thing, it's letting the engine vary RPM really quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to change RPM quickly can mean faster shifts, getting to a power band more quickly, etc, etc. It also makes the car much more twitchy to drive since it doesn't like low RPM very much. At low RPM the lower mass of the flywheel means you need to use the throttle to keep the RPM above where the flywheel isn't going to carry things around as well. For a race car that's not a big deal. For the family driver with the manual transmission, it's a big problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="23588" LastEditDate="2017-08-31T11:47:04.827" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T11:47:04.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28570" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:37:57.333" Score="6" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've referenced several manufacture sites (such as Firestone &amp;amp; Slam Specialties) to find any verbiage on their site's but I was unable to find if air bags for a hot rod should be changed after so many miles? My understanding is airbags are somewhat similar to tires, they can dry rot, bulge or blow over time. But, like tires, there is a determined life expectancy, but I am unable to find what is the typical life of an airbag and at what mileage are they typically changed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T18:40:23.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T04:49:01.033" Title="Should a suspension air bag be changed after so many miles?" Tags="|suspension|supplemental-restraint-system|hotrod|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:59:42.070" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The flywheel keeps your engine spinning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inertia of a flywheel is in direct proportion to the mass of the flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newton's first law of motion states, &quot;An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, motorcycle engines typically have less resistance to inertia to overcome than most car engines because they have fewer cylinders compressing air due to fewer cylinders and (in many cases) lower compression.  As well, there are fewer resistant forces related to air conditioners and the various accessories associated with a car engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great post related to flywheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24566/what-does-a-flywheel-do-and-what-is-it-connected-to&quot;&gt;What does a flywheel do and what is it connected to?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flywheels on motorcycles will frequently be used in a dual-homed role, taking on the role of an alternator as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eBwJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6eBwJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Image from KTM and MotoUSA&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attributes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower weight flywheel will allow for a faster response to fuel input from the rider due to it's lower weight and Newton's First Law of Motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attributes include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faster shifting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Longevity of transmission&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Higher RPM's needed engaging first gear for more HP due to lower inertial mass&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveats&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single and two cylinder motorcycles will frequently have a counterbalancer in order to reduce the vibration and imbalances inherent to fewer cylinders in an ICE.  These additional components help to bring up the inertial mass and thus reducing the need for a heavier flywheel as the sum of the additional components will total the overall inertial mass of the ICE.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T18:22:58.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:16:31.983" Score="6" ViewCount="1859" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a car with automatic transmission, what's the best way to accelerate so as to minimize fuel consumption? Assume I'm not going to change the gears manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm also considering non-flat scenarios, such as going over a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, should I keep speed constant, or minimize the braking time, or keep the RPM at a constant value, or minimize the RPM, or accelerate as quickly as possible...?  Is there a general rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2115" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:48:38.210" Title="Optimal acceleration for automatic transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|fuel-consumption|acceleration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-20T21:29:38.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28567" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:19:05.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treat them like other suspension components (and with a similar lifespan). The reason it's so hard to get an answer on lifespan is that it's very dependent on the installation and the other components. If it's installed incorrectly - which happens a lot - then the bag can rub against other parts of the car, and won't last as long. Use cheap hoses, or a dodgy compressor, and again the system won't be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, replace them when they break (or when the rubber looks in bad condition). No need to throw away money until that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T04:49:01.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T04:49:01.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:20:15.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Physics dictates that rotational inertia impedes acceleration...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;which is why a lighter flywheel is considered to be a performance mod&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less rotating mass = more acceleration, if all else is equal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But rotational inertia helps an engine idle stably&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;which explains why manufacturers don't go for lighter flywheels from the get-go&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they opt for a lighter flywheel, the idle RPM will have to be higher in order to maintain engine stability, which translates to more fuel consumption and lower fuel economy. For an average vehicle where performance isn't a priority, it makes little business sense to go down this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More often than not, folks who install a lighter flywheel in the name of performance have to raise their idle speed in order to keep the engine running. This is especially true for engines with fewer cylinders and smaller displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T18:20:15.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28569" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:34:04.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more throttle you apply the worse your gas mileage is going to be. If you want to absolutely maximize your gas mileage, use the minimum throttle possible. So accelerate only enough to just barely creep the speed upwards. On a hill, you would want a constant velocity and use terrain to your advantage. Basically put the car in neutral when going down a hill and gain all the speed you can. This will help you coast over whatever terrain comes after the downhill. On uphills, don't accelerate. Run a high gear and keep the RPM as low as possible to climb the hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can't do these things and stay within the law, safety, and other factors, it's not clear the savings on gas is worth the hassle of driving this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing these things might change your miles per gallon by 2 or 3. Call it 2 MPG, and assume your tank has a 15 gallon capacity. You would increase your trip tank by 30 miles, and that's only for highway miles. For the city you would probably not see a 2 MPG difference. If gas costs $2.50 US per gallon, and your mileage is roughly 25 MPG, your savings is about $2.25 US per tank. Given the pain of driving like this, might not be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T18:34:04.427" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:46:22.910" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hearing rattling noise when the transmission is engaged (drive) and it get's louder at higher rpm. previously I did not hear this. There is no noise when I rev engine in park mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear in normal case would shift as RPM exceeds 1500rpm, but now the gear shifts at 2.5k rpm when it's in constant acceleration, if I speed up and expect sooner gear shift , it does at 3.5k to 5k RPM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;could it be &#xA;drive belt that is rattling?&#xA;any transmission digital adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if you need any other information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13168" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T18:46:22.910" Title="2010 mini cooper transmission noise and gear shift at RPM higher than normal" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29329" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:50:26.993" Score="10" ViewCount="6498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Torque Pro App for sometime in my Hyundai i10 Era (2011 model) and it gives me Horsepower at wheels. But the values seems to be much less.&#xA;To find out the problem, I logged the car OBD speed using Torque Pro app, calculated the Hp at wheels myself and the numbers don't match with the ones that Torque Pro shows me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am little curious how does Torque Pro calculate the Horsepower at wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the weight of the car as 1050 kgs. Formulas I am using to calculate HP at wheels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HP = KE of car at that instant / time diff between the current reading and the previous reading, where KE = 1/2 * m * ((current speed) ^ 2 - (previous reading speed) ^2)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HP =  mass * acceleration of car * current speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to understand why is there a mismatch? How do I calculate Hp at wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please find the link to the data logged using torque pro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eZxozvG0V3nrKHPZKqIkYovqNh_lM4PNuZLkozNVVoo/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eZxozvG0V3nrKHPZKqIkYovqNh_lM4PNuZLkozNVVoo/edit?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="13258" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T10:38:55.843" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T16:20:04.967" Title="Horsepower at wheels calculation" Tags="|torque|horsepower|obd|vehicle-dynamics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2016-04-19T19:02:27.643" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;cdunn's answer is spot on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a bit (especially for cars), in a race car you often want to be dropping from something like 7000 rpm to maybe 5500 rpm (or an even higher band, depending on the engine) in a split second to make an upshift.  Especially at higher engine speed, that's a lot of energy to bleed (and goes as a function of the weight of the flywheel).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lighter the flywheel, as soon as you hit the clutch, the faster the engine speed will drop.  This is a double-edged sword.  Not only does it &lt;strong&gt;let&lt;/strong&gt; you shift faster, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; shift faster - and more precisely.  The time between clutch and shift (at ideal rev-match) is reduced, and the &lt;em&gt;window of opportunity&lt;/em&gt; to make a perfect shift is also reduced.  Your revs won't just hang around, slowly bobbling down (giving you lots of time to fuss with the shift lever) - they sink like a stone and you must make the shift before they drop too low (or else you get a rude shock when you let the clutch out again).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same deal for downshifts - a heel-toe gives you a very fast RPM bump but, again, you have to make the shift in the brief window that presents itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutch springs are usually stiffer on racing clutches as well, so badly timed shifts are even harder on your vehicle - not only will a sloppy shift kill your race time, it will hurt your car as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low weight of a racing flywheel also makes moving off (from a stop) harder.  When you're racing, you only do this once per race - sometimes not at all if it's a rolling start.  When you're commuting you do this all day long.  A heavier flywheel carries much more momentum - when you feather out the clutch from a stop, this momentum helps to keep the engine running at a steady RPM as you add load and gives you more latitude in your throttle control to keep the car going and setting off smoothly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a racing flywheel, you get no help here - as you feather out the clutch from a stop the engine will bog down rapidly (and stall) if you don't add fuel to keep the revs up.  But because the flywheel is so light, adding just a bit of fuel sends the engine racing off to high RPM if you jump the gun before the clutch starts to engage.  This whole procedure is much more sensitive with a light flywheel (and a stiff, grabby clutch).  Daily driving like this would be a nightmare - stop-and-go traffic would be a full body workout and mental exercise in concentration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14445" LastEditorUserId="14445" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T19:35:40.983" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T19:35:40.983" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28569" CreationDate="2016-04-19T19:45:58.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each car is a bit different but the highest efficiency for automatic transmission acceleration is usually at the point before the the transmission decides to automatically downshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data you should look for is called &quot;brake specific fuel consumption&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be a broad generalization, but your highest efficiency for normal gasoline cars with throttle plates would be at the highest throttle opening in the highest gear possible, and in some cars with fuel enrichment, below the engine load that would require fuel enrichment to prevent engine detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Hypermilers they do something called &quot;pulse and glide&quot; to take advantage of this engine attribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words... &quot;Maximize Throttle!!&quot; ... but dont let the automatic transmission shift to a lower gear. You are basically borderline lugging the engine. And if you feel adventurous turn off the engine when acceleration is no longer needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&amp;amp;title=Brake-Specific-Fuel-Consumption&amp;amp;A=112611&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article on brake specific fuel consumption&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia entry on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy-efficient_driving#Causes_of_pulse-and-glide_energy_saving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pulse and Glide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastEditorUserId="10234" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T19:58:33.173" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T19:58:33.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:00:32.570" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mp3car.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mp3car.com/&lt;/a&gt;. The site has been around since c. 1999, and the forums include comprehensive discussion threads, on a variety of topics, among international &quot;carputer&quot; enthusiasts. A quick search for &quot;germany law&quot; yielded this result among others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I got pulled several times in Germany and the Netherlands because the cops or customs officers wanted to have a look at the car and there was never any problem with the screen, although a movie was playing once or twice. My cars have also been passing the regular technical checks in the Czech republic and the Netherlands for 5 years without any issues related to the computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In CZ, there is no law, that would explicitly prohibit watching movies whilst driving. It falls under and could be prosecuted on basis of the general &quot;the driver must fully focus on driving&quot; rule. I think the situation is similar in the Netherlands, but I am not 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mp3car.com/forum/mp3car-technical-hardware/general-mp3car-discussion/109606-monitors-illegal-in-cars?p=1738750#post1738750&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mp3car.com/forum/mp3car-technical-hardware/general-mp3car-discussion/109606-monitors-illegal-in-cars?p=1738750#post1738750&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For photos of installs, which may reveal some display options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.mp3car.com/forum/general/show-off-your-project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16585" LastEditorUserId="16585" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T12:35:48.930" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:35:48.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:03:44.680" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try putting cayenne pepper on &amp;amp; around your car, maybe mixed with a little water so it doesn't blow away. That's supposed to work well to keep animals out of a garden or flowerbed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are motion activated air sprayers like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000RIA95G&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PetSafe Ssscat Cat Spray Control System&lt;/a&gt; that should be great to put by your wipers or wherever area  of the car that's visited most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There used to be a model that would beep first, and then spray air, so you could &amp;quot;train&amp;quot; them to avoid just the beep &amp;amp; use less or no air (no refills to buy). And it should be possible to attach an air compressor (set very low, maybe 10psi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEG4O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEG4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ssscat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ssscat’s automatic spray system combines spray technology with a motion detector to protect indoor areas and objects within a one meter radius. When your pet is within the one meter radius, the system will detect their movement and send out a burst of spray in their direction. Since the spray is harmless, odorless, and stainless, you won’t have to worry about damaging either your pet or your home. Because the spray catches your cat off guard, he will turn away and learn to avoid that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable motion detector angles between the detection of the motion and spray from side-to-side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also adjust the direction of the spray up and down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ssscat repels cats and other small animals &lt;strong&gt;up to one meter away&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The scentless spray is enough to annoy him, but your nose won’t notice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ssscat can also be used for other small animals such as rabbits, dogs, and ferrets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uses 4 AAA batteries (not included).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taping it to a weighted bag should keep it from blowing away outside, something like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=beanbag+gps+holder&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bean bag gps mount&lt;/a&gt; would be an expensive alternative to a soft bag with something in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried this indoors and it did work well, too well in that it would go off whenever &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; walked too close to the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, just use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003TS4T16&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glade Sense &amp;amp; Spray air freshener&lt;/a&gt;. It has a motion detector &amp;amp; should only spray once every 30min &lt;em&gt;if it detects motion&lt;/em&gt;. The scent will probably keep cats &amp;amp; other animals away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can &lt;strong&gt;make&lt;/strong&gt; a motion activated water sprayer from existing relatively cheap products, like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00345B6XI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raid Auto-Trigger sprayer&lt;/a&gt; and the above mentioned Glade sprayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7zxvW7MZac&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7zxvW7MZac&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or use an Arduino based more versatile one (for maybe ~$45 US according to the parts page)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parts list &amp;amp; code here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tinkernut.com/2014/03/arduino-motion-detecting-squirt-gun/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tinkernut.com/2014/03/arduino-motion-detecting-squirt-gun/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/this-auto-trigger-spray-bottle-pranks-friends-keeps-ca-1555621712&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This LifeHacker link&lt;/a&gt; has a good overview &amp;amp; links to both Youtube videos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Arduino video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSz4FQPsir8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QMFk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vid image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:11:49.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28737" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:20:35.040" Score="11" ViewCount="5377" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Specific Fuel Consumption or BSFC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring various attributes of an ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) and how it performs certainly gives a greater understanding of how a particular ICE performs at various RPM's as well as give the ability to understand economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Specific Fuel Consumption is one of those measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for answer that illustrates the math behind BSFC and assists a novice in understanding why BSFC matters to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the various metrics and attributes used to come up with a BSFC number?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why does BSFC matter?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can BSFC be changed on an ICE related to intake, ignition timing, exhaust and cam timing?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T10:10:50.577" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T13:06:37.347" Title="BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) - How is this a beneficial measurement?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28575" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:31:40.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Two things to watch out for when using these equations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Consistency of units&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mass is in kg, speed in km/h and acceleration in furlongs per week², you're not going to get power in horsepower. Your safest bet is to convert all units to SI metric and convert to hp as a final step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1000 hp = 746 kW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Factor in rotational inertia&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb is to include an additional 20-30 % on top of the static mass of the car. The fact that there are rotating engine and drivetrain components means that the car will &quot;feel&quot; a little heavier and more difficult to move.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Both equations have their merits and limitations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Power = change in KE / change in time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This equation is useful when acceleration is not measured but velocity is. This is usually the case with OBD-II devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This equation doesn't hold true if the vehicle is traveling on an incline (results in a change in potential energy).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Power = mass x acceleration x speed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This equation works regardless of incline, but depends on acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that neither of these equations have taken the effect of aerodynamic drag into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="13825" LastEditDate="2018-06-14T16:20:04.967" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T16:20:04.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-19T20:49:14.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint your car a color cats don't like or park it in your garage. Alternatively you could call animal control and tell them stray animals keep loitering on your property &quot;don't mention cats&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16588" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T20:49:14.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:04:43.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing which hasn't been mentioned here about why a lightweight flywheel may not necessarily be a good thing for the street is, just like brakes, the rotational mass of a regular weight flywheel will allow for better heat control which is caused by engaging/disengaging the clutch during normal operation. The mass of a regular flywheel will be more thermally stable than would a lightweight one. This provides for more longevity of the flywheel. The lightweight one will have more problems with overheating and losing grip after such events. With race teams, this is usually not an issue as this would be a planned replacement item and will get replaced much sooner than would a street flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:04:43.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28297" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:22:41.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;We found at least two issues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The air filter housing wasn't forming a proper seal with the MAF sensor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This engine boasts a quirky design where the MAF sensor sits at the back of the engine. The air filter housing seal is in the middle of this first picture, MAF sensor in the second picture (stills were taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Kd5d-nBlULU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/19LhR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/19LhR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Air filter housing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oGaPW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oGaPW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MAF location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever had installed it didn't install the air filter housing correctly, so unfiltered air was making its way into the MAF sensor and causing all manners of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After seating the housing in the MAF properly, the STFT fluctuations vanished. Curiously, this vacuum leak was actually metered by the MAF sensor. Notice the slightly postitive LTFT's, which weren't registered by the app before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6Q5s.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6Q5s.png&quot; alt=&quot;No more STFT fluctuations&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The brake booster line jiggles a little&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We monitored STFT's upon pressing the brake line and it looks to confirm that the brake booster/line is suspect. I think I can make out a hissing sound near the brake booster vacuum port but didn't have carb/brake cleaner handy to confirm it. Here is the trace when my friend tapped on the brakes three times in quick succession (car was stationary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eVjD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eVjD.png&quot; alt=&quot;STFT response to pressing brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CEL still returns upon braking. At this stage we feel it necessary to repair the brake line vacuum leak before proceeding with declaring this problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will update this answer with details as an when they become available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update : Found the smoking gun&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it wasn't the brake booster line. It was this: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a crack in the part-load breather hose&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PK1Mf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PK1Mf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part load breather hose closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbcFx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbcFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part load breather&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we discovered it was by blocking the air intake and realizing that there was barely any suction. Because this hose was buried deep under the air filter housing, it wasn't visible but some brake cleaner made light work of uncovering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like someone tried to repair it with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a temporary fix crack was sealed up with duct tape and the car taken for a spin. Although I didn't get the chance to log the fuel trims, the car felt much crisper in response to throttle changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no need to replace the wideband sensors after all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T20:33:37.303" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:33:37.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29090" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:44:58.357" Score="10" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;In another post (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17437/a-most-intriguing-cold-start-misfire-mystery&quot;&gt;A most intriguing cold-start misfire mystery&lt;/a&gt;) I found this quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mass air flow = 3.66 g/s Fuel flow = 1.27 l/h, Fuel rail pressure =&#xA;  380 kPa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This indicates to me that AFR is around 14.88, close to stoich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is AFR calculated from these numbers? I know it's the ratio of air mass to fuel mass, but it's making the units work that I'm getting a little lost. In this case the air mass flow rate is in grams per second, and the fuel flow rate is liters per hour. Grams is a measure of mass, and liters a measure of liquid volume. Does this require knowing the density of the fuel to make the calculation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always thank you to @Zaid for getting me thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:09:23.500" Title="How is AFR calculated from ODBII readings" Tags="|engine-theory|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28581" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:53:25.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BSFC number is usually calculated by the fuel consumption divided by power output of the engine.&#xA;The BSFC rating for a specific engine will also vary depending on the rpm and load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 dimensional(BSFC/rpm/load) map of the BSFC numbers is useful for finding the most fuel efficient operating conditions for a specific engine. Peak efficiency commonly around full load(throttle) at peak torque. It is can be used to tune a transmission shift point for better mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most things used by engine manufacturers to increase MPG/Effiency would also be beneficial to BSFC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples that I know of, that can significantly increase BSFC in existing engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Converting engines to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atkinson_cycle&quot;&gt;atkinson cycle&lt;/a&gt; with cam tuning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation&quot;&gt;Exhaust Gas Recirculation&lt;/a&gt; in the intake air to increase partial load efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:53:25.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:59:40.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all else fails use an impact wrench.  The vibration will normally break it loose.  If the head is stripped force an smaller socket onto the plug.  On 14mm, 9/16 works fine.  Next get rid of the stupid metal washer Toyota puts on some units and replace it with an approved substitute. The metal washer is abrasive therefore causing the sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16590" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:59:40.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:29:19.930" Score="6" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My SX75 was moving when it stopped. It does not move forward or backwards. The clutch pedal feels fine. If i put it in gear with the tractor off it cannot be pushed forward or backwards (trans engaged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the power transferred from the engine through the rear wheels? Is there a belt in the drive train? How do I gain access to this area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could not find a service manual or a diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16595" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T19:46:04.297" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T19:46:04.297" Title="john deere sx75" Tags="|troubleshooting|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28589" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:40:48.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mower has a transaxle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's belt driven and has a primary belt that resembles a fan belt for a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM133763_F7/Output/OMM133763_F712.html&quot;&gt;Here is an online resource.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search the URL with &quot;Removing Primary Drive Belt (SX85)&quot; and it will give a diagram and instructions on removing and replacing the drive belt, if that's the issue.  The manual covers many other areas as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T00:40:48.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28488" CreationDate="2016-04-20T01:30:01.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've checked the brake fluid frequently and also yes I've tried a couple different brands. &#xA;Even dot 4 when in the manual it says dot 3. Only thing that seems to help is letting the car sit and press on the brakes while the car is off so loosen them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16538" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T01:30:01.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28488" CreationDate="2016-04-20T01:50:20.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some places to start: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You car has a wheel bearing inside a wheel hub assembly (the part you bolt the tire to), there are also one or two control arms that are part of your suspension. Normally the bushings inside these control arms tear or disintegrate (they are usually a rubber compound) and the mounting components (a pin and clevis system) will bang against each other when you drive over something hard, causing the banging sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smoke from the breaks sounds like oil. Unless you used a lot of brake grease when you installed the new parts I would check to see if there is oil on the calipers in the morning before you drive it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the car seems to decelerate abnormally quickly and there may be oil on one of the rotors you should inspect and replace the brake lines. Like rpmerf mentioned in his comment if your brake line is swelling the pressure could be causing your brakes to stick. When the brakes cool down the swelling decreases and the brakes will operate normally until they warm up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things that can cause brakes to stick are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;misaligned caliper (one loose bolt?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;misaligned pads (something lodged between pad and caliper?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inteference - something simple like a rock stuck in between your pad a caliper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally you could have a bad wheel bearing. Does the wheel spin okay with the caliper off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T01:50:20.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22490" CreationDate="2016-04-20T01:50:38.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake hard on smoother pavement or cement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smoother roadbed will have a better surface for you tires to slide across and in order to grab and release repeatedly to make the sound you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires squeal when they are grabbing the road surface and letting go thousands, if not more, times a second.  The vibrating tire emits the sound as it goes through the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, you might have anti-lock brakes which prevent a good squeal from occurring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smoother surfaces&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disabling your anti-lock brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Softer tire compound for more friction&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making sure there's no gravel or dirt on the road you want to squeal on&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, you can &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;carry a broom with you&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to clean road surfaces before you drive on them to make sure you can get a good screach when you lock up your brakes.  I think a great surface would be large cement slabs joined together with smooth concrete, just like a gas station or even the inside of a shopping mall (you'll want to get permission from the property owner I would think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck making noise with your tires and may they be as obnoxious and loud as you hope for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T06:20:49.777" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T06:20:49.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28606" CreationDate="2016-04-20T02:06:37.567" Score="8" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this because if I have a small portion of fossil fuel and light it, the fuel will only burn. But inside a combustion chamber of a vehicle this same combustion will propel the piston downward keeping the vehicle moving; why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T02:59:22.040" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T08:03:30.500" Title="Why do combustion chamber combustion gasses turn the engine when it only burns?" Tags="|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1948" CreationDate="2016-04-20T02:11:08.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time (many years ago) I changed out a turn signal switch it was a PITA because of all the anti-theft devices wrapped around the steering column. By the time I got to the switch I was cursing up a streak and I never did get the thing back together right. Never again. With airbag systems on the steering wheel it can only have gotten worse. My advice is to take the thing to a garage and open up your wallet. If you really want to do it yourself, for God's sake don't pinch pennies and put in a junk part that might go bad in a month. Those plastic parts in the switch from the junkyard are about the same age and just as brittle as the one you are replacing. You will be doing it all over again way too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T02:11:08.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30289" CreationDate="2016-04-20T02:42:12.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a project in my '06 Ridgeline where I am taking out the iPod / Aux add-on and putting in a Bluetooth / Aux add-on at the back of the radio. In the process I will be removing the left cigarette lighter and replacing it was a USB and Aux port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been thinking about putting in some USB ports for charging and data transfer in the car and I figured that since I'll be taking the dash apart anyway, this is the perfect time to put those USB ports in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have chosen to put in a powered USB 3.0 hub which requires 12v. Therefore, I found an automotive DC to DC buck-boost regulator which is rated to output 12v at the appropriate wattage over the expected operating range of the vehicle's battery. Also, the input to the DC to DC buck-boost is appropriately fused. My idea was to take the now unused 12v outlet and wire it to my DC to DC regulator which ultimately powers my USB hub for glorious charging and data transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is this&lt;/strong&gt;: What is the connector at the back of the cigarette lighter and where can I buy a mating connector to make my own wiring harness that plugs into my DC to DC regulator? Alternatively what resources should I go to to find the information myself preferably without taking apart the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pardon me if this is the wrong forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;I have found a cigarette lighter replacement at the following link. I'm assuming I'm looking for the mating connector that fits the wiring shown on the left. It's unnumbered so I'm stuck again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aplNl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aplNl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cigarette Lighter Assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://parts.sonshonda.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1470290&amp;amp;ukey_assembly=275911&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://parts.sonshonda.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1470290&amp;amp;ukey_assembly=275911&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16600" LastEditorUserId="16600" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T06:31:32.867" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T04:24:32.340" Title="Modding Honda Ridgeline cigarette lighter to power USB ports" Tags="|honda|wiring|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T03:26:29.007" Score="5" ViewCount="2914" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water in my radiator keeps depleting &#xA;I've checked for leaks but I can't seem to find any. Every morning when I check the radiator I have to fill it up for about a litre. Yesterday I didn't use the car much so I topped the radiator water at night to see if it stays the same in the morning. And no, it didn't. I still had to top it up half a litre of water even though the car was idle the entire night. I still couldn't see any leak. What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2001 Honda Civic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9971" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:33:49.400" Title="Radiator Water Issue" Tags="|honda|civic|radiator|water-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28595" CreationDate="2016-04-20T03:47:03.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK the way this works when you burn the fuel,  you have it in liquid state at atmospheric pressure. In actuality you're not burning the liquid, you're burning the vapors that form over the liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in the engine, fuel is disbursed into droplets which creates a lot of surface area for the fuel to expel vapor. What the ECU does is create a very specific mixture of this fuel, vapor, and air that is needed to create the high energy burn that makes the engine turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without that very specific ratio you don't get the more energetic burn.  The chemistry behind why that is I don't know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T04:19:26.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T04:19:26.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28598" CreationDate="2016-04-20T03:53:23.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure you &lt;strong&gt;do not put tap water&lt;/strong&gt; into the cooling system on your vehicle. The cooling system has a leak, which is why you need to refill it periodically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on the ground where you park and note any wet spots. Check all the hoses to and from your radiator for any signs of a leak such as wet fluid or runny looking patches of evaporated fluid (can have many appearances). Check around the radiator itself, and around the reservoir. Look for steam or &quot;white smoke&quot; from the engine bay and exhaust pipe while the car is warm (not when you first start it!!!!) and running. If you don't see any at idle have a buddy pull  on the throttle. You can pull the spark plugs out and make sure they all look the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing else, you can buy a tool and pressure test the cooling system. Sometimes the system will hold at idle but not on the road. Beyond that it may be time to take your vehicle to a mechanic for diagnosis. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T03:53:23.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T04:41:48.393" Score="6" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw a 2007 GLI with 120,000 kms that I was interested in purchasing today. There were 3 issues that I need help with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upon launching the car (gas pedal floored) I could hear some kind of grinding noise from the mid-rear section. I could not hear it anymore after trying a few times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car made a very brief rattling noise every time it started moving (gas pedal pressed normally). The owner said it might be because of the DSG transmission which mimics the behaviour of a stick shifter during depression of the clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a kick every time I backed up (gas pedal pressed normally)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mainly concerned about the intermittent noise, but thought to throw in the rest just in case. According to the owner the car was parked for a couple of days, so I'm guessing maybe it needed to warm up first but I can't convince myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible causes of the intermittent noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16602" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T04:54:41.347" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T23:01:00.147" Title="VW Jetta GLI making intermittent grinding noise on launch" Tags="|vw|noise|jetta|rattle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28597" CreationDate="2016-04-20T04:55:07.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just strip, solder and heatshrink the relevant cables together - should just be two, I'd guess. Quicker, easier, and less likely to break than trying to match the plug on the back of the 12v outlet. If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, an autoelectrician wouldn't take longer than 15minutes if the cables were all accessible and you drove the car to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T04:55:07.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28597" CreationDate="2016-04-20T05:19:10.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power socket has a simple two cavity connector. It will most likely have #2 female spade connectors. Connect a new device with male spade connectors after first verifying polarity. I would not look for a matching connector, finding one is unlikely. I just take them apart and make a plan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing of power connector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQkCM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQkCM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Honda power socket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not matter to your plans but note that this circuit is powered through a relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T05:19:10.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T06:35:43.873" Score="2" ViewCount="8026" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which coolant I can use in my Chevrolet spark and how much coolant and water required &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16605" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T10:17:57.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T10:43:22.627" Title="how much coolant required in chevrolet spark" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|spark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2016-04-20T06:56:55.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of good answers, but will clarify something for what it is worth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All hybrid cars do have a 12V and a high voltage system. In my Prius (2009, 2003-2009 model), the 12v battery is in the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard car electrics like computers (all 13 of them) and screens and headlight and indicators and everything runs off the 12v battery. The 12v battery is often a sealed lead-acid battery, to prevent risk of hydrogen gas explosions. SLA batteries have a long lifespan but tend to have lower maximum output currents. All they need to do is provide enough power to boot up the computer, which then activates relays that connect the (220-250v ish) high voltage battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high voltage battery then powers a 2000w DC-DC convertor that charges up the 12v battery, and also provides power to all the electronics of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this complex isolation of the high voltage battery is due to risk-aversion; in some ways it is like fast food coffee saying 'warning, contents hot'; or peanut butter saying 'allergy advice, contains peanuts'.... However in other ways it makes sense. The HV battery is usually near the rear of the hybrid, so power cables run to the motors at the front. Both batteries are DC, and 42v DC can kill a person, whereas many of us have had 240v AC mains shocks with no harm. In a car crash, or anything that disables the computers, the relays disconnect and the high voltage battery is isolated, so you don't die if you touch the car (hopefully!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical alternator is 500-700 watts, so the 2000 watt 12v DC convertor is very good, and can provide very good quality power for audio installs among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the battery in my 80s Nissan says 320CCA - cold cranking amps - which at 12 volts is around 3500 watts. Normal car starter motors can draw well over 2000 watts, putting strain on the 12v battery (much more expensive than normal car battery) and the DC DC convertor (extremely expensive, $1000s)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to jump start a normal car, it could destroy very expensive electronics, even if you do it right. Repair costs could be $1000s. If you connect it backwards it could write off a Prius, replacing 13 computers etc!...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to help someone with a jump start, the best way is to connect your 12v battery in your hybrid to theirs, only when your car is fully switched on. Leave it for 5-20 minutes. Disconnect before they try to crank their engine and reconnect for more charging if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, I jump started a friend's 2.5 diesel truck off my Prius. The 12v battery took damage, so if the fans are on, the voltage is too low to fully start the car's high voltage relays, and I get a 'red triangle' on the dash, so I have to switch off fans etc before I start my car! I was lucky only the 12v battery got damaged, and it hasn't got worse and it is 2 years later!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful if helping others; whatever you do, don't let someone try to crank their engine while your car is still connected!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16608" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T06:56:55.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28595" CreationDate="2016-04-20T08:03:30.500" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;During combustion, the pressure in the combustion chamber is increased, and this pressure pushes down the piston. There are two reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Increase of the amount of gas molecules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we use hexane as fuel. To burn one hexane molecule consisting of 6 carbon and 14 hydrogen atoms, we need 13 oxygen atoms (6.5 oxygen molecules) and get 7 water and 6 carbondioxide molecules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 1* Hexan           + 6.5* oxygen -&amp;gt; 7* water  + 6* carbondioxide&#xA;&#xA;     H H H H H H&#xA;     | | | | | |&#xA;1* H-C-C-C-C-C-C-H  + 6.5* O-O    -&amp;gt;  7* H-O-H + 6* O-C-O&#xA;     | | | | | |&#xA;     H H H H H H&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because air consists of just 20% oxygen and 80% nitrogen, there are four nitrogen molecules for each oxygen molecule in the chamber. They &lt;s&gt;do&lt;/s&gt; should not react during combustion, so you simply add 26 molecules nitrogen on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before combustion, there are 1+6.5+26=33.5 molecules and after, there are 7+6+26=39 molecules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting fact about (ideal) gases is that a certain volume at certain temperature and pressure always contains the same amount of molecules, regardless which kind or mixture of molecules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we still have the same volume in the combustion chamber and neglect the increase in temperature, the increase of number of molecules by a factor of 39/33.5=1.16 results in an increase of pressure by a factor of 1.16, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heat expansion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you increase the temperature of a gas, it would expand. If it can't because it's enclosed in the combustion chamber, the pressure rises instead. For example any (constant) volume of ideal gas at room temperature (20°C) increases its pressure by a factor fo 4.3 when heated to  1000°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All together&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During combustion, the pressure increases by a factor of 1.16 as the number of molecules rises, and another factor of 4.3 due to the temperature, leading to a total factor of 5 in pressure increase.&#xA;Let's say the combustion chamber has a piston of 8cm diameter (typical bore), which corresponds to a surface of 50cm². A pressure of 5000hPa (difference to environmental pressure of 1013 hPa) will apply a force of 2500N (or 560lbf) onto the piston and push it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I didn't say here is that a real motor first compresses the air/fuel mixture by a factor of about 14, which increases temperature and pressure in the cylinder. (It invests energy here, but it gets it back after combustion) Also, I don't know which temperature is reached during combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is a very basic calculation neglecting some effects, but I think it clearly shows how the force on the piston is created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and if you ignite a little fuel in an enclosed bin, you will also notice an increase in pressure. But since the process is quite slow, most of the heat leaves the bin, it doesn't become that hot, and the pressure isn't that high. (But be careful: Fuel vapors can explode, and then you have the high pressure...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T08:03:30.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28162" CreationDate="2016-04-20T08:46:29.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably allready thought of this but have you concidered getting one from a scrapped car? i use parts from the car dump all the time and i rarely have issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you might even get it for free concidering the guys working at the scrapyard are usually nice guys :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16612" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T08:46:29.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28162" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:03:40.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cork will be porous so probably not a wise choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a rare car and can't find an appropriate scrap vehicle (which would be my first choice) then a ping pong ball firmly secured to the sender are will be very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:03:40.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28597" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:25:04.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated before by Pete, I'd also recommend cutting or splicing the existing wires and adding your connections there. It'd be a lot easier and at times cheaper to do this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done multiple mods on many cars, and have done this method and not one has failed. As long as you do your testing in Phases, e.g. connect two wires, test all is working then carry on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned &lt;em&gt;&quot;Data Transfer&quot;&lt;/em&gt; ? I'm not sure what data transfer you would get from USB charging other than perhaps the voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also quite a few USB 12v DC chargers available which you can wire in directly to your 12V Cigarette lighter wiring, without having to add any DC to DC buck converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:25:04.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28598" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:33:49.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You also need to check the coolant tank if it has one, it may have a leak or the connecting hose has a leak, and when the water in the radiator expands, it's lost to the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:33:49.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28569" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:48:38.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if they still have them, but back in the '60's they'd hold &quot;economy contests&quot; where the contestants would try to maximize economy on an oval track.  The preferred method was to get a manual transmission car and lug it in high gear from 10 mph or so up to 25, then they'd push in the clutch and shut off the engine and coast back down to 10 mph, turn on the ignition and dump the clutch to start the car again.  The gas pedal was held to the floor the entire time.  The economy savings came from lack of engine vacuum fighting the pistons on the intake stroke, and since the gas pedal was held steady, no accelerator pump action to squirt extra gas in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to accelerate normally up to just before the point where the transmission shifts, then let up on the gas a bit to &quot;help&quot; the transmission shift, then resume acceleration.  Accelerating too slowly obviously keeps you in the lower gears longer than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:48:38.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28434" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:54:09.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next time you hear it click, come to a full stop, back up a bit, apply the brakes again to come to a stop, and try it forward again, listening for another click.  If it clicks again, I'd say either the pads are loose enough to slide a bit or possibly the caliper slide pins. I wouldn't worry about safety in either case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T09:54:09.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28616" CreationDate="2016-04-20T10:04:29.217" Score="12" ViewCount="1708" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some of you may know from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28547/requirements-for-a-car-pc-and-its-software&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; i am currently rebuilding my car. The plan is to rebuild it from scratch. An important part is the engine. At the moment there is a 1.4l 8V petrol engine with 60HP(44KW?). This is, of course, a bit too little for the effort this project is going to have (IMHO). So i plan on getting a bigger engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest engine in this model is a 2.0l 16V petrol engine with ~150HP. But i think this will also be too little. Unfortunately i have no specific plan on which engine(power) to use. I could think of about 400-500HP at the end. The normal weight of the car (from the papers) is about 980kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There wasn't an official 4x4 version of this model, only a few (1-5 maximum) self-made versions. So i can't simply get the base of a 4x4 one. But from this i know it is possible to build it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that i have little to no experience with AWD or 4x4, but i would like to learn more about this in general. I already learned a bit about the differences between 4x4 and AWD from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25891/why-do-pickups-and-large-suvs-use-4x4-and-generally-not-awd&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. I am primarily interested in the use of 4x4 or AWD on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for this is, if there will be traction problems because of the power/weight ratio. There is no use for a 500HP engine if the car can't go forward anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when will the car benefit from a 4x4/AWD modification? What aspects do i have to take in consideration (for example HP, Weight, nm, cost...)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the 'best' behaviour for street use? full/part 4x4 or AWD or...?&#xA;The car won't be used off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addition to make the Q less broad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What specific parts do i need to change in order to build AWD in a car whose series never had a performance version with built-in AWD? Apart from the AWD system and the modifications on the bottom of the car to install the AWD system properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the fact that for this increase in power, there are many more things to do (improving the brakes, chassis, &lt;del&gt;landing gear&lt;/del&gt; and some things more) but that is not the question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the cost is an essential part of this project, but the cost is not the problem here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is need for more informations please tell me. I will then add this as soon and good as i can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As i expected the question. The car i'm talking about is an Opel Astra F CC from 1995.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By landing gear i mean the summary of parts for the connection between the vehicle and the undergrounde. I don't know the exact english term. The german term is &quot;Fahrwerk&quot;. Here a &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fahrwerk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki link&lt;/a&gt;. I hope thats helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16565" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T16:06:03.420" Title="4x4 for sports cars (street use)" Tags="|4wd|awd|traction-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28488" CreationDate="2016-04-20T10:05:16.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with Ford Focus, but I used to have a '77 Plymouth Fury that had this problem, it was a valve in the master cylinder not allowing the front brakes to release, and any dragging would cause expansion to cause the brakes to apply, aggravating the condition to the point where it wouldn't move, even though I was spinning the back wheels on dry pavement.  Cracking the brake bleeders would &quot;fix&quot; it during any particular instance by releasing the pressure.  The final fix was a new master cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16361" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T10:05:16.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28604" CreationDate="2016-04-20T10:22:21.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocats.ws/manual/chevrolet/tis0409/EN/documents_2007/Matiz/sm-m/7m2_0B0.en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, the coolant capacity for the 2007 Chevrolet Spark is 4.2L (4.4 qts) for the 1.0L engine. If your vehicle differs from this, you can cross reference on that page to get your specific vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use whatever type of coolant you desire (red, green, yellow, orange, etc.), but realize each has its own change interval. It will also have its own mix ratio, but most require a 50/50 mix with water. Purchasing premixed coolant (50/50) will save a lot of time/hassle, plus you'll know the ratio is exactly what you need. Brand of coolant is fairly irrelevant as they are nearly the same between types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T10:43:22.627" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T10:43:22.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28613" CreationDate="2016-04-20T11:02:28.977" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thoughts, given the car is question, would be to check to see if there is a performance version of the car which features four wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road use, if you have over 300bhp going through the front wheels, things can get difficult.  A friend of mind had a 320bhp Seat Leon Cupra (Front wheel drive) and sold it to buy an Audi S3 (same basic chassis setup but four wheel drive) as he was struggling to get the power down in the Leon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in the UK your car was sold as the Mk3 Astra and was out at around the same time as the Calibra which was a sports coupe based on the slightly bigger Cavalier chassis.  It appears that the front suspension from a Calibra can be fitted to your car very easily.  You simply need to change the top mounts and enlarge the holes the strut tops sit in very slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rear is a more complex proposition.  You can fit the entire Calibra 4x4 system but you need to cut out the boot floor and centre tunnel of your car and weld in place the Calibra items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is therefore to try and locate a scrap / crashed / damaged Calibra Turbo 4x4 which will give you everything you need for the conversion (including the all important brakes).  Apparently the engines in these cars are good for around 420bhp with serious modification.  On the plus side, I'd assume once you've found a suitable Calibra to use for parts for the conversion , it wouldn't be particularly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing I would say though is, try and find a GSI 2.0 16V version of your car in standard form and drive it.  You may find that this provides enough power to make you smile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T11:02:28.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28162" CreationDate="2016-04-20T11:32:03.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully used ping-pong balls in the past, on gasoline and diesel vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T11:32:03.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28613" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:11:57.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you start, I'd have a good read of the rules applying to it - I seem to remember that Germany is very strict on heavily modified cars, so you might well find there are restrictions on what you can do to it - modifying the monocoque (chassis/bodyshell) to allow the fitment of a propshaft and rear drive axle might well be restricted, or involve huge amount of tedious and expensive paperwork to get TUV approval...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:11:57.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28501" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:15:09.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the schematics for your car and trace out the starting circuit with a test light. Wondering in the clutch is 'false positive' and the issue is actually somewhere else, or if the clutch is moving a wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your clutch switch will not allow the starter to turn, so if the starter is turning, it is not related to the clutch switch.  Your issue sounds to be related to spark or fuel.  This sounds like bad grounds to me, but it is hard to be sure without poking around with a test light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:15:09.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28162" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:15:58.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You could use a float from a motorcycle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get these used from various motorcycles for very cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can use a propane torch to unweld them from their hangar and braze them onto your float arm. The fuel will never degrade one and there are plenty of them around for a very low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4etX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4etX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:15:58.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9368" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:45:42.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove my 2001 Bonneville 437,000 miles over the course of 10 years and NEVER changed the brake fluid. Take it for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16430" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:45:42.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28448" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:37:18.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer - no. It's perfectly okay. And , it's also perfectly okay to be annoyed. It's one of those things mechanics like to do (no offence to anyone). Similar to endlessly hitting refresh on a windows machine. &#xA;Your car, as do most modern cars, has a rev-limiter and unless you've crossed that by downshifting, there's no need to be worried.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please comment if there's anything you'd like me to elaborate on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:37:18.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-04-20T14:07:49.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important to get a good cold air intake that actually takes in cold air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kits that call themselves cold air intakes, are actually just exposed underhood pod air filters taking in hot air next to the headers. In a high compression engine that already operates near the detonation(knock) threshold, taking in this heated air can sometimes cause engine damage from detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T14:07:49.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-04-20T14:53:37.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This very much depends on the type of engine you have.  For naturally aspirated engines, these filters should have no effect on longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a word of caution, if your car is forced induction (i.e. Turbocharged or Supercharged) not only will the modification have little effect but I have seen instances where the size of particles allowed to pass through the filter can damage the charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly susceptible to damage are the G-ladder Supercharger seals fitted to Volkswagen G40 and G60 engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a forced induction car, an Intercooler (or larger Intercooler) would be a more suitable modification and yield the kind of returns you would expect from a performance filter on a naturally aspirated car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, anecdotal evidence gathered on the rolling road by the likes of tuners such as Guy Croft suggests a 1bhp gain for every 2 degrees Celsius lower the intake temperature is (down to about 40 degrees C).  Don't do too cold or fuel can start to drop out and ice up in the inlet tract.  This is less on an issue for fuel injected cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T14:53:37.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28629" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanical/engine related questions about boats are considered on-topic. Non-mechanical questions, such as fixing sails, aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28630" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" Score="0" Body="Questions about boats, boat engines, and other relevant (mechanical) questions about watercraft" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T15:32:03.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2016-04-20T16:07:22.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to expand on rpmerf's answer, where he has disambiguated between Heel and toe and clutchless shifting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'l briefly explain the driving technique only to better illustrate what it hopes to mechanically achieve. And so, please excuse me if get the nuance of the technique wrong.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of a gearbox. I couldn't find a one with synchromesh, just assume that it goes where the DOG GEARS are. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFkDb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFkDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CONSTANT MESH GEARBOX&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HEEL AND TOE&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a driving technique for DOWNSHIFTING while BRAKING.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The point of doing this is REV-MATCHING the engine with the new transmission speed after engaging a lower gear and doesn't help the synchromesh unless you're DOUBLE CLUTCHING as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique :   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You press down on the brake (right foot), modulating it as per requirement &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You press down on the clutch (left foot) and shift to a lower gear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pivot your braking foot (toe still on the brake), such that you have your heel to press down on the accelerator (clutch is still disengaged/disconnected). You press it enough to roughly bring it to the rev's required for the lower gear.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You let go of the clutch  (modulate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You still continue to brake as per requirement  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically - &#xA;point 2 . While downshifting, let's assume that the time spent on moving the gear lever is negligible, the engine needs to pick up speed to match the rotational speed of the gear shaft, which is , for the same road speed, now higher than the previous gear. Slowly engaging the clutch would have done the same thing. By applying a commensurate throttle, you've aided this rev-matching process which was left to the clutch alone, and completed the shift in an admitidly shorter time. -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Benefits-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Faster shift - lesser time spent in between gears is good for all sorts of reasons, one of which is having consistent engine braking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alleviate clutch abuse - Apart from wear, you significantly reduce driveline shock that can result from quickly releasing the clutch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Everything above apply's when you just want to shift down and don't have a need to brake. All you do is omit the braking part, and keep the rev matching part i.e clutch , rev-match and shift, release clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DOUBLE CLUTCHING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is what you want to do if -&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 1. you want to reduce your synchro wear&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 2. your synchro's are already worn&#xA; 3. your vehicle doesn't have synchro's (old vehicles, and some between the 1st and 2nd gear) . No synchros on reverse gear either. but since one is stationary while engaging reverse, you're already rev-matched. Try reving in neutral and quickly engaging reverse and you'l hear a grinding noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By double clutching, you're trying to REV MATCH the lay shaft/neutral shaft, which on a constant mesh gear box is constantly meshed with all your gears, to the OUTPUT SHAFT , which is connected to the synchromesh and mates to the selected gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPSHIFTING  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press clutch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drop to neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the clutch while modulating the accelerator (reducing it, though not all the way) such that the new (lower rev) of the gearbox neutral shaft is the rev matched to the higher gear, connected to the driveshaft.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press clutch and shift to the new gear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Release clutch.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, this process can be made faster (driving technique nuances) , taking into account that simply by lifting off the throttle you're allowing the engine rpm to fall, and hence, double clutching while lifting off the throttle and getting a hang of timing can expedite the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOWNSHIFTING&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If performed while braking, it'l be DOUBLE CLUTCHING WITH HEEL AND TOE. i'm only going illustrate the double clutching process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop to neutral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modulate throttle - Increase rev to match the lower gear you want to shift down to . You're bringing up the neutral shaft to the RPM expected by the new gear hence doing the job of the synchro. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press clutch - so as to disconnect the engine again and have the impending shift occur without the additional engine inertia to deal with , as rev- matching can never be truly perfect. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release clutch - Re- Engage the engine to the transmission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again , in practice, it's easier to blip the throttle than to hold a constant rpm when the engine is free- revving. Hence, depending on the speed of the shift, one may   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blip once - at point 3. and finish the rest of the steps quicky before the engine drops in RPM . &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blip twice - at point 3 and point 5 if the shift is slow . - long gear levers in trucks, or just a lazy shift.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clutchless shift isn't commonly done on a transmission with synchro's. It can lead to premature synchro wear even if the shift feels smooth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clutchless shifting can be done in CONSTANT MESH GEARBOX with dog gears both up and down. It helps if the shifting mechanism is SEQUENTIAL and the rotational inertia of the transmission is low. Though, all that's another topic.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T16:07:22.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28636" CreationDate="2016-04-20T19:58:08.603" Score="5" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a city car Chevrolet Spark 2016. When going up a steep hill say in 4th gear, having the throttle down at 60% or WOT is practically the same. There's a minimal increase in RPM and power. Will the vehicle consume the same amount of gas if at 60% rather than WOT? Is going WOT in this case harmful for the engine? Is it better to shift to 3rd and slowly gain speed or to 2nd and go faster, quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16634" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:25:33.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:25:33.343" Title="WOT uphill, no increase in RPM, consuming more gas?" Tags="|chevrolet|manual-transmission|throttle|spark|mileage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28635" CreationDate="2016-04-20T20:26:10.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet the engine in your car is drive-by-wire, which means the computer is controlling the throttle, not you. In doing so, it is going to look at the load put on the engine and a bunch of other factors and give it only the throttle it can use as well as the gas ... at least in high gear. By going WOT in this instance, you'll not be causing your engine any damage beyond the normal wear/tare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as mileage goes, you will get worse gas mileage by downshifting than you will by keeping it in the high gear. This is because the engine will be revving to a higher level. More RPMs = more gas used. The difference is, you'll most likely be able to obtain a higher speed with the vehicle because you'll have more available hp/torque to the ground. It's the age old trade off of get there faster or get better fuel mileage ... take your pick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T20:26:10.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-04-20T20:56:00.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put the tire in upside down and bolted it, measured how much higher it sat than the base, cut some 2x4s to support the panel and voila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16635" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T20:56:00.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28709" CreationDate="2016-04-21T00:03:40.683" Score="8" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to cleanup the EGR pipe in my VW Jetta TDI. Are there any special considerations on how to remove the carbon which might be blocking the flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16639" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T18:06:15.357" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:06:15.357" Title="2006 VW Jetta TDI EGR cleanup" Tags="|engine|vw|jetta|tdi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-21T01:17:59.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cheap $60 (over the internet) ultrasound emitter that triggers on motion, and shuts off within 15 seconds of no motion. I have one in the front yard and one in the backyard. Works on dogs, cats, squirrels and some birds. &lt;br /&gt;One negative thing is they cannot tolerate the rain and humidity of central Florida at all. I have to bring them inside if it is rainy or foggy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T01:17:59.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T02:33:56.957" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Mercury Sable Premium LS (3.0L 24V Duratec V6) has an electrical issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I remove the key from the ignition, the instrument cluster and headlights do not run off.  I can reach in at any time, regardless of key presence, and turn on the headlights or check the instrument cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I manually turn off my headlights using the switch, but I fear the instrument cluster is draining my battery.  It was hard starting one morning, so I threw the charger on it when I got home and found that it was down to 60-70% capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this, or is this not a bug but instead a feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14355" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T02:33:56.957" Title="2000 Mercury Sable instrument cluster and headlights do not turn off" Tags="|electrical|instrument-cluster|sable|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28501" CreationDate="2016-04-21T04:15:45.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@paulster.. Yes.. The start sounds normal and yes jump off refers to getting a rolling start and Poppin the clutch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do still have to pump the clutch several times before it will turn over.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16541" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T04:15:45.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T06:29:14.657" Score="7" ViewCount="6370" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eureka! After replacing the starter relay purchased on eBay with the original Honda one the engine starts and runs perfectly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;''''''2'''''&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: installed a new fully charged battery = still no life to the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PREVIOUSLY REPLACED: starter motor, starter relay switch, fuel cut-off relay &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REVIEW:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R1. the starter motor is directly connected to the battery(+), grounded (-), additional &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R2. the 4P* starter switch works = starter relay switch clicks only (noticed a tiny connection spark)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R3. no dimming of lights in the process (no clutch switch, kill switch, stand switch active)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R4. 30A fuse in starter switch is good (connects to ignition switch (R), to regulator rectifier (R/W), and to starter relay switch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4P*: G/R to clutch switch and clutch diode, Y/R to starter switch, R/W to fuse and regulator rectifier, R to ignition switch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the wiring diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W1. the starter relay switch has wire G/R connecting to clutch switch (inactive) and to clutch diode (inactive)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W2. the starter relay switch has wire Y/R connecting to MINI 9P to starter switch (the kicker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these work fine (by deduction)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter motor receives no power, not turning/cranking to initiate the firing cycle in the chambers/spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefor suspect a possible failure in the starter switch in its primary action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am excluding failures of other secondary parts/connections since the primary cycle seems not requiring them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDITIONAL INSPECTION/TEST: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. The continuity in the starter relay switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. Direct connection battery-starter motor (bypassing starter relay switch**) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** un/checked the voltage at the starter motor &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opinion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;......1.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All lights work at the turn of the ignition key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter switch produces a single &quot;click&quot; in the starter relay (just replaced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new starter motor has been installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery shows 12.+ Vlt. and was tested as &quot;good&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New spark plugs. Carbs are clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can be the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The well maintained/serviced motorcycle had zero problems up to this one.&#xA;(1998 Honda Pacific Coast 800)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16644" LastEditorUserId="16644" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T00:29:15.040" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T07:42:41.593" Title="Motorcycle Starting Motor does not crank, WHY?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T07:39:02.197" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;My carb Citroën BX interior rattles on idle.&#xA;This mostly happens before the engine warms up, as soon as I apply the smallest amount of throttle this disappears, which leads me to apply throttle when stopped at lights or keep my choke activated  for nllonger than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video reference &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ry84LsLrOuA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ry84LsLrOuA&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The sound is louder on the recording &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T11:19:59.837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:39:11.620" Title="Car interior rattles on idle" Tags="|engine|maintenance|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T07:57:47.267" Score="4" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to buy a car (a Mercedes c240 4matic from 2003) with AWD. I heard, all-wheel drive is really good in winter, and maybe on the mountains. But in sommer it's only a waste of gas. The engine has 170HP. Is it possible do deactivate the rear-wheel drive of 4matic? Could this lead to the damage of the engine or any other parts of the car?&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;Does somebody has experience with 4matic? Somwhere i read, that (at least in the models before 2000) the 4matic has a &quot;supporting&quot; function: the front tires are driven, if the rear ones begins to spin. But in the service center, they told me, that 4matic is a permanent AWD (maybe in the brand new models?).&#xA;Here is an interesting post:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/86/difference-between-fwd-rwd-4wd-part-time-4wd-awd&quot;&gt;Difference between FWD/RWD/4WD/Part-Time 4WD/AWD?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure, what exactly 4matic is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanx in advance, Daniel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16624" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T05:29:28.457" Title="Mercedes c240 4matic: permanent AWD?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|c240|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28645" CreationDate="2016-04-21T08:56:12.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There can be a couple of reasons..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Is the fuel pump working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Is the electronic circuit OK ? e.g. Ground wires.. positives.. negatives.. A good way to check could be when you try to crank, do the lights fade? flicker?  anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Checking that voltage is coming through to the starter motor as well will tell you if it is actually getting there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: An often overlooked thing could be is your kill switch working ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: Some bikes wont start if the clutch is not pulled in, try checking the relay switch if this is required for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T08:56:12.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28647" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:10:58.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think in the C240 it is a permanent 4Matic system. As you can buy the C class without 4Matic as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clever systems of 4Matic wont effect fuel consumption so much so that its a deal breaker in my opinion. You could have this in the earlier (1995-1999) to turn them off but again this would have left a warning light on your dash. Which would indicate that even then it was not recommended by Mercedes, otherwise they would simply have added in a button to switch it off..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4X4 systems differ a lot from brands as well as models, so if you want accurate information on how good it is, then you should look specifically at the 4Matic posts.. Here is an excellent review of a newer version but can still be compared to your model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoguide.com/manufacturer/mercedes-benz/mercedes-4matic-awd-system-review-1888.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercedes 4MATIC AWD System Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T09:10:58.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28662" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:20:33.223" Score="6" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing the top mounts on a 1997 Mk3 Golf 1.6 GLI (101HP) at the moment.  The car is equipped with Koni sport suspension and is using Mk2 spring caps.  I'm replacing the Mk3 top mounts with Mk2 items as these sit slightly lower and are more snug against the spring caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that, the threads have been very slightly worn by where the spring cap was sitting against the damper spindle which makes the nut tighten up before it's in contact with the top mount bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is specific to this problem, as the nut is M14 x 1.5 and therefore beyond the scope of most tap and die sets.  Before I go ahead and order a specific die, I was wondering if I attacked it with a thread file if that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some research into various thread pitches I was surprised to discover that all metric threads appear to have an internal angle within the groves of the thread of 60 degrees.  Therefore I wondered if it would be possible to devise a tool that simply cut a 60 degree grove to the required depth, if that would be a more effective universal thread repair tool?  Perhaps use threads further up the bar as a datum point to keep the tool cutting blade in the correct place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:30:35.947" Title="As all metric threads appear to have the same angle, is a metric thread file universal?" Tags="|thread|tap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28652" CreationDate="2016-04-21T09:40:22.260" Score="21" ViewCount="124097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2013 Mazda 3, in case that makes any difference to the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5739/use-of-neutral-gear-in-automatic-transmission&quot;&gt;few&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/Should-I-put-my-car-in-neutral-when-stopping-at-a-red-light&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussions&lt;/a&gt; on the web which indicate that putting an automatic car into neutral does not significantly improve fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I developed this habit of putting the car into neutral at stop lights, and have been told by a few friends that this is bad for my car's transmission. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/16087/16646&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; seems to agree with that assessment, but does not provide any convincing evidence that the wear on the transmission is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does putting my car into neutral at stop lights significantly damage the transmission?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, assuming that I maintain all parts of my vehicle as recommended by the manufacturer, will this habit significantly increase the likelihood that my tramission will fail before other parts of my car do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16646" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T12:50:01.853" Title="Does putting an automatic car into neutral at stop lights significantly harm the transmission?" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|mazda|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28651" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:01:04.827" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Not by any significant or even measurable amount. Constantly using the shifter may, over time, wear the bushes and linkages prematurely but these parts are usually inexpensive and simple to replace. The transmission itself will be unaffected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:01:04.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:01:08.097" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shift lever is stuck in reverse and will not come out. I took out the shift tower to check the cable, and nothing appears to be missing or stuck. What could be causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16647" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T13:24:05.707" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:24:05.707" Title="2003 Ford Focus 5 speed Stuck in Reverse" Tags="|ford|focus|gears|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T23:04:43.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9499" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:24:12.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  had the same problem with my car and finally it was the Thermostat who was the culprit, it was not working properly and due to that even when the engine was heating up it did't start the Cooling fan and then ended up with the lots of heat and pressure and due to that coolalnt fluid overflows. &#xA;Now I got the Thermostat replaced and its first day and i did't experience the same problem again and hoping it should run successfully now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16649" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:24:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:28:31.560" Score="6" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Mercedes e-350 2006 sedan whose ignition box was vandalized and taken away by vandals. I could not start this car since then and I thought of buying a used ignition box to use on the car with the original key but will this work? If not what other options can I explore to get this car started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16648" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T16:10:38.067" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T16:10:38.067" Title="Mercedes E-350, 2006 sedan ignition problem" Tags="|starting|ignition|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:29:08.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short of chopping and welding the boot floor, you could possibly create an artificial boot floor that sits higher than the existing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some outside the box alternatives are;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hi9q4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hi9q4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spare on Rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cab5k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cab5k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spare on Bonnet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfGcu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfGcu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spare on Roof&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:29:08.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17350" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:33:38.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I  had the same problem with my car and finally it was the Thermostat who was the culprit, it was not working properly and due to that even when the engine was heating up it did't start the Cooling fan and then ended up with the lots of heat and pressure and due to that coolalnt fluid overflows. &#xA;Now I got the Thermostat replaced and its first day and i did't experience the same problem again and hoping it should run successfully now. &#xA;~Sanjiv&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16649" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:33:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28655" CreationDate="2016-04-21T10:36:57.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it's a security-specific component on a relatively new high-end car, I suspect you won't be able to use a second-hand part - You will probably have to get a new one from Mercedes. Even if you could use a second-hand one, you'll almost certainly have to take it to Mercedes to get them to reprogram it to your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T10:36:57.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28646" CreationDate="2016-04-21T11:39:11.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may indicate that either you need to wait a while to put the choke in or that you need the idle screw adjusted on your carburetor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T11:39:11.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T12:57:13.173" Score="10" ViewCount="2838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas to get into a locked, jammed trunk of a 2000 mercury marquis?&#xA;They key, the remote, and the button on the door all do not work, although a clicking sound is produced.  You can't access through back seat.&#xA;I think its because some unnamed unsmart person jammed a ton of stuff in there (strollers, spare tire, tote box, chair)  and its somehow interfering with the mechanism.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16650" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T15:56:41.573" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T15:21:54.707" Title="Can't get into trunk of 2000 mercury marquis" Tags="|repair|mercury|grand-marquis|trunk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28660" CreationDate="2016-04-21T13:05:08.730" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the trunk was overfilled and had to be pushed closed, you might have success with pushing down on the trunk (with as much force as you safely can) while trying to operate the mechanism.  If a force inside the trunk is pushing up, the mechanism could be in a bind.  You pushing down will hopefully counteract that force enough to free up the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:05:08.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28650" CreationDate="2016-04-21T13:30:35.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thread file should be fine to use for larger threads on the outside of an item (such as a large thread on coil overs or adjustable suspension) for bolts and bolt holes you should use the correct size die and taps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most Thread Files have a range of pitches, and it is these that you need to concern yourself as they will directly impact the depth and angle of the thread itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:30:35.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2016-04-21T13:51:51.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had new rims and performance tires installed on a 2001 CLK430.  Same vibration through the steering wheel at 100 kph (ish).....regardless of road surface.....going to get the fronts rebalanced first as they did an alignment and checked the suspension during the install.  I'll post the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16652" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:51:51.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28674" CreationDate="2016-04-21T13:56:42.097" Score="12" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28561/what-are-the-benefits-of-a-lightweight-flywheel-and-why-arent-they-lightweight&quot;&gt;This great question&lt;/a&gt; discusses the disadvantages of a lighter flywheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More twitchy to drive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorter window of opportunity to complete gear changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible stalling at low RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the disadvantages could all be resolved in modern engine control systems by modulating the fuel and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fly-by-wire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FBW&lt;/a&gt; throttle positions. &lt;strong&gt;Why isn't this done?&lt;/strong&gt; The lighter fly wheel would lead to increased engine performance and fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:54:49.973" Title="Software solutions to lighter flywheel issues" Tags="|engine-theory|flywheel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28651" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:00:51.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't as stated above, but there are bushings and bearings that will get worn out, its probably better to just leave it in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engineering Explained did a good review on this, so I recommend checking this out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zzEtxJkC7Y&amp;amp;t=7m15s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Engineering Explained Automatic Transmission&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastEditorUserId="11239" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T17:46:18.450" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:46:18.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28645" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:02:02.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check the neutral switch in the transmission. If it's not reporting that the transmission's in neutral, then you'll have to replace or adjust it. Also check to see if there's a switch on the clutch lever to indicate that the clutch is pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:02:02.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28669" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:42:51.553" Score="12" ViewCount="10543" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building a frame I've heard people refer to adding a fish plate.  What does fish plating a frame do and what exactly is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T16:05:29.903" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T16:05:29.903" Title="What is fish plating a frame?" Tags="|hotrod|frame|welding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28668" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:42:51.553" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fish plating a frame is typically used when someone is building a custom frame and two pieces of steel are met and a plate is created to overlap both pieces to add structure support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Eypi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Eypi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:42:51.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28664" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:46:02.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well for one thing the mass of the flywheel is what it is because manufacturers have to strike a balance between performance and drive-ability and emissions figures. A lighter flywheel would require the car to idle at higher RPM's to keep from stalling because the inertia of the flywheel is what keeps the engine firing when you're not on the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it can fairly easily be done, but the reason it's not is because most consumers will not be happy with a car that idles at 1000RPM and the relevant country's ministry of transport/EPA/whatever won't like all the polarbears you're killing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for dual-mass flywheels. They're great and all, but they're hellishly expensive to replace WHEN (not if) they go bad. E.g. my Subaru is pretty old school with its single mass flywheel, but it would cost a third to replace it compared to the dual-mass setup in the equivalent Mazda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:46:02.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28660" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:48:32.963" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the seat does not fold down, you can unbolt it.  Remove the bottom part first, then the back.  This happened in my mother's Camry several times(bad latch mechanism) and I had to remove the seat each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:48:32.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:48:33.260" Score="4" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this issue with my CX7, when I drive at a regular speed, the car performs very well. Now when I release the gas pedal and brake the car makes no sound until it goes below 20 MPH, then I can hear a metallic pulsating sound coming from the front left side (driver side). I changed the sway bar links and the tie rod ends. I checked the brakes and they seem perfect (shoes are not worn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any ideas of what this might be?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case it's not the timing chain, I already changed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16655" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T04:45:48.103" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T04:45:48.103" Title="Mazda CX7 metallic pulsating sound when driving below 20 MPH" Tags="|brakes|noise|mazda|driving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28719" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:49:03.607" Score="10" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used vehicle which has some aftermarket rims on it. For whatever reason the previous owner failed to take good care of them and there are areas of them (some are 2 or 3 inches) that look like the chrome plating or finish has been chipped or corroded off. Is there any DIY product or method I could use to repair the chrome finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: here's a picture of what I'm talking about&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZREz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ZREz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T18:07:23.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T19:43:24.983" Title="Wheel rim chrome repair" Tags="|repair|wheels|finish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28664" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:03:27.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hardest part of a lightweight flywheel is getting used to taking off.  Its like learning to drive a stick again.  You need to rev it a bit more, or you will stall.  There may be some 'Anti stall technology' you can use, especially with drive by wire.  The shorter shift window pairs nicely with a short throw shifter.  Again, takes a bit of getting used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU should be able to compensate some of the 'jerkiness.' When going on/off the gas, there is less momentum, so the RPM changes more rapidly and causes a jerk.  The ECU could open the throttle a little when coming off the gas, or open it slower when getting on the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:03:27.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28676" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:20:38.903" Score="10" ViewCount="2947" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when someone builds a custom frame they are typically Mig welded and &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28668/what-is-fish-plating-a-frame&quot;&gt;fish plated&lt;/a&gt; but if a frame is Tig welded does that generate better penetration when welding pieces together so you don't have to fish plate?  My understanding is limited in regards to Tig welding but what I've been taught Tig welding generates the best welds but I'm unsure if that better weld is enough penetration to circumvent fish plating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T16:31:13.797" Title="Does Tig welding a frame add more strength where fish plating isn't required?" Tags="|hotrod|frame|welding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28675" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:34:45.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend checking the regulations of an appropriate race series, as anything that meets or exceeds these specifications should also be suitable for road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the UK MSA regulations on Roll-over protection state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;K1.3.8. Guidance on Welding. All welding should be of&#xA;the highest possible quality with full penetration and&#xA;preferably using a gas shielded arc. Although good&#xA;external appearance of a weld does not necessarily&#xA;guarantee its quality, poor looking welds are never a sign&#xA;of good workmanship. When using heat-treated steel the&#xA;instructions of the manufacturer must be followed&#xA;(special electrodes, gas protected welding). It is to be&#xA;emphasised that the use of heat-treated or medium&#xA;carbon steels may cause problems and that bad&#xA;fabrication may result in a decrease in strength (caused&#xA;by brittle heat-affected zones) or inadequate ductility.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a fishplate used on a roll-cage in a UK rally car. I'd also avoid end-on butt-joints like the one shown in your other question - far better to use a single length of metal for each member of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:34:45.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28675" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:35:50.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) is used generally on thinner metals and or aluminum. It would have less penetration than MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welding. I would not recommend TIG welding the Frame on any vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:35:50.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28683" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:02:01.073" Score="8" ViewCount="8862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which advantages or disadvantages would I obtain by changing the rim size while keeping the overall diameter of the wheel and the thread width constant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; I input 155/65 R13 and I see I could use a 155/55 R14. Let's ignore the change of 2.4% in circumference, that has easily foreseeable effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only test I found is the one by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested&quot;&gt;Car and Driver&lt;/a&gt; where they used the same car and changed the rim size from 15&quot; to 19&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They noticed worse fuel economy, worse 0-60 acceleration, better max side acceleration with bigger tyres. However, the thread width is not constant, the went from 195 mm to 235 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would explain at least the max side acceleration and probably the worse fuel consumption. I guess the 0-60 acceleration depends on the overall weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideas right now with bigger rims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worse shock absorption (the rubber is thinner and softer than metal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;greater risk of damage to the rim with potholes (clearly not with 155/65 R13, but it happens with those ultra thin, almost &quot;spray-on&quot; tyres)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better handling in corners due to lower deformation of the tyre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more sudden loss of control: thick tyres deform and then loose grip, the thinner ones sharply go from grip to skid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else? What about when the car is stressed, like in track days? and emergency braking/steering in everyday driving? and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12109" LastEditorUserId="12109" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T16:11:54.487" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T14:59:25.937" Title="What is the effect of changing rim diameter while keeping wheel width constant?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28686" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:15:11.247" Score="7" ViewCount="2859" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building a frame is there a way to join the sections together without having to fish plate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T16:29:03.437" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T01:37:35.443" Title="Is there a way to section a frame without fish plating?" Tags="|hotrod|frame|welding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:28:57.607" Score="6" ViewCount="5161" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make&lt;/strong&gt;: Honda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model&lt;/strong&gt;: Accord LX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Year&lt;/strong&gt;: 2004&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Error codes&lt;/strong&gt;: P2195, P1172, P1174 and P219&#xA;Mile: The vehicle was driving for over 6 months&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptom&lt;/strong&gt;: there was a missing fuse for the A/F ratio sensor heaters. After the fuse was replaced, the PCM sets P2195, P1172, P1174 and P2197.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things that I have tried&lt;/strong&gt;: replaced a fuse for the A/F ratio sensor heater&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knowledge level&lt;/strong&gt;: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of my issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16660" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T17:56:35.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T01:11:56.523" Title="How to fix P2195, P1172, P1174 and P2197 error code for Honda Accord LX 2004?" Tags="|honda|accord|air-fuel-ratio|code|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:35:03.023" Score="13" ViewCount="41595" Body="&lt;p&gt;A popular explanation of how a four stroke engine works is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine &lt;em&gt;sucks&lt;/em&gt; in a mixture of fuel and air, then &lt;em&gt;squeezes&lt;/em&gt; it together (compresses it), then it burns / explodes that with a &lt;em&gt;bang&lt;/em&gt;, and finally it &lt;em&gt;blows&lt;/em&gt; out the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But who came up with this very simple explanation first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14105" LastEditorUserId="14105" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T18:24:21.137" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T15:44:05.863" Title="Who came up with &quot;suck, squeeze, bang, blow&quot;?" Tags="|engine|four-stroke|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28678" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:40:51.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rims are heavier than tires.  The heaviest part of the rim is the part directly under the tire that stretches the entire width.  By having a larger rim, this is moved further out, so it has to move faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger rims typically provide worse straight acceleration and braking due to the increased weight.  If you are changing steel rims to aluminum, you might be able to keep the weight about the same.  Handling will be increased due to a shorter sidewall, but is more dependent upon the type of tire (how soft the rubber is, tread pattern).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in thinking 'ultra thin' tires will give you a rougher ride and a higher potential of damage to your rims.  Also be aware, you are more likely to scrape curbs.  It is really dependent on height of the sidewall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a more direct answer to your question of 13&quot; to 14&quot;, I do not think it would be a huge change.  You will lose a good bit of sidewall, but you will still have about 3.5&quot; per side.  This will be enough that you shouldn't be concerned with damage from pot holes.  I would be surprised if you would really notice a difference in ride stiffness, acceleration, braking, or handling.  Any difference you did notice would more likely be from having new tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T16:40:51.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28680" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:41:49.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching the show called &lt;em&gt;Stacey David's Gearz&lt;/em&gt; ... it's one of those Saturday morning vehicle shows (at least that's the time I see it). He's been around the block a couple of times and his shows are a little cheezy, but he seems very knowledgeable. This one episode I saw, he was shortening the frame of a C10 to take it from a long bed to a short bed truck. He notched a section out of the C-channel frame to shorten it the length he needed. The picture below shows how he did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XY7eF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XY7eF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice, the cut the section sort of &quot;stepped&quot; (best way I can describe it). The idea is to configure it in such a way as there isn't a single weld straight across, but rather, spread the load of the weld through a long portion of frame, making it much stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is what you had in mind, but he didn't use fish plates to strengthen the weld after he had put the two halves together. He just relied on the weld itself to create the strength. Personally, I think I would have put a smaller section of C-channel inside the frame to provide stability, but that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T16:41:49.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28651" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:25:56.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be argued that by putting the car in Park or Neutral, you are saving wear on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/torque-converter1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;torque converter&lt;/a&gt;, which can be an expensive piece of equipment to replace. But I can't site any first-hand examples where that needed to be done, so again, the wear is likely negligible. :) I'd worry more about flushing your fluids and providing other regular maintenance more than whether you wear out your torque converter or your linkage, brushes and bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16663" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:25:56.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28680" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:35:50.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open butt joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butt joint with backing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lap Joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Offset joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Open Butt Joint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I64Zi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I64Zi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14250/css/14250_51.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend this for joining frame rails, even though some manufactures (Toyota for example) recommend this type joint for sectioning procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Butt joint with a backing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can be made from a piece of one of the frame rails, or other scrap metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAvzU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sAvzU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1N5C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1N5C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tech-cor.com/AutoResBulletin/1990-6/1990-6.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of joint will add some strength to the weld and is a little more forgiving to less experience welders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lap Joint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flanged lap joint uses one piece to great a flange for the other to be slid over and welded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3UJk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3UJk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tapered lap joint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cut the corners out on the end of the rail, bend the flange down giving you a backing to weld too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ducX9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ducX9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Offset Joint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Involves making a Z cut in each frame rail giving you more of a surface area to weld too. Can't find a good picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add strength to the joint without using a fishplate I would recommend making an insert 4 - 6 inches long. Plug weld it on both frame rails as well as a butt joint where they touch. After dressing the weld properly it will be very strong and look like one piece of steal. Again can't find a good picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:35:50.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28681" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:40:31.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get a bunch of codes on a car, the best way to work through is to fix only the first code - in this case the P2195. The easiest check is to look for a disconnected cable - Rear A/F Sensor Sensor 1 Bank 1 (which is also a cause of P1172). If everything checks out good, the other cause of a P2195 points towards the MAF having some debris in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p2195_honda.html&quot;&gt;http://www.autocodes.com/p2195_honda.html&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Debris in the MAF sensor can also set this P2195 code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the MAF sensor, and check for debris (lint, bugs, foreign objects, etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the air cleaner housing cover, remove the air cleaner element, and check it for damage.&#xA;A damaged air cleaner element lets debris get into the MAF sensor. Replace the air cleaner element if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean out the air cleaner housing. To keep from contaminating the MAF sensor, don’t use compressed air; use a vacuum instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall the air cleaner element, the housing cover, and the MAF sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear the DTC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've checked this, clear all codes (using a cheap OBDII reader) and go through a drive cycle; see what codes come back, and tackle the first one in the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:40:31.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24812" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:54:28.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following instructions here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://freeremoteinstructions.com/toyota/toyota-camry-2002-2006/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://freeremoteinstructions.com/toyota/toyota-camry-2002-2006/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform these steps within 5 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform these steps within 40 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A. Close then open the drivers door.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B. Close then open the drivers door.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform these steps within 40 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A. Close then open the drivers door.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B. Close then open the drivers door.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D. Close the drivers door.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;E. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;F. Remove the key from the ignition.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically&#xA;indicating successful entry into programming mode.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform these steps within 40 seconds.&#xA;A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons,&#xA;Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was&#xA;not accepted.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Open drivers door.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that works for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:54:28.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28664" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:54:49.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the real approach to this is not adjusting the throttle, it's by changing the valve timing to synthetically lower the compression ratio. This will decrease the opposition to the crankshaft turning, conserving its momentum just like the flywheel does. Leaving the intake valve open during the first part of the compression stroke should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T17:54:49.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28682" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:28:42.130" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This phrase has been around very long and has been used in the aviation industry as well as automobile.  This is a very good, and more importantly, very easy for anyone to understand way of describing the four cycles of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an excerpt from an &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=lqDVAAAAMAAJ&amp;amp;q=suck+squeeze+bang+blow&amp;amp;dq=suck+squeeze+bang+blow&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjowKzbqKDMAhXHSyYKHSNpBWk4FBDoAQgkMAA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aviation safety report&lt;/a&gt; from 1958:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqEP7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nqEP7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Air Safety Forum: Reports Presented at the Annual Air Safety Forum of the Air Line Pilots Association&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was so widely used as to make it into a safety report for the Airline Association in 1958, it must have been in common usage well before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would venture to say the phrase or a similar phrase probably appeared as cars were becoming a household item and mechanics had a need to start explaining how things worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I wouldn't be surprised if the great &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikolaus_Otto&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nikolaus August Otto&lt;/a&gt;, inventor of the four-cycle engine had a similar saying to explain his engine: &lt;em&gt;Saugen,  Drücken, Knall, Schlag&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T18:32:10.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:32:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28675" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:46:32.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tig welding should be fine as long as your machine is designed for welding at that thickness. For example if your frame rails are formed from 1/4&quot; thick steel, you should be using something like a 300 amp tig setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:46:32.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28651" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:25:03.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breaking it down,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does sitting in Neutral put less wear on the transmission than Drive? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the act of moving from D to N and then back to D put wear on the trans?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And... (OP's overall question) do either of these &quot;significantly&quot; damage&#xA;(i.e., cause to fail sooner than other parts) the transmission?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps surprisingly, putting it in N wears the clutches (and leaving it in D does not); see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18561/16546&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, moving the shifter causes stuff to move around -- linkages and mechanisms -- so of course there's wear on those moving parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it enough to matter?  That's the $100,000 question, and will depend on the particular transmission and car.  I think it's safe to say the engineers know most people will leave it in D at stops.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayManualsByModelAndYearHome.action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; doesn't mention anything.  On the other hand, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; say things like &quot;Don't shift from D to R while moving!&quot; so that's the sort of thing that will do the kind of &quot;significant&quot; damage you are asking about.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16546" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T19:25:03.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28694" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:28:32.880" Score="4" ViewCount="2327" Body="&lt;p&gt;2007 Mercury Milan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first the key was stuck in the ignition. Now it wont shift out of park. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these 2 issues related? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will installing a new shifter kit fix both issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T19:51:27.817" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T02:20:41.017" Title="mercury milan key stuck in ignition, shifter will not come out of park" Tags="|ignition|shifting|mercury|milan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:37:46.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two could be related.  In the US, the key can't be removed from the ignition unless the car is in Park as a safety requirement and most cars won't let you take it out of park until the key is inserted and turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is normally accomplished with a few switches and actuators in the ignition cylinder and the shift mechanism.  This could be as simple as a bad wiring connection, but it could also be a broken switch in the ignition or a broken actuator in the shift mechanism.  Another possibility is that the actuator is in a bind.  You might try wiggling the shift lever or pressing the button on the shift knob while turning the car key on and off to see if you can jostle it loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can partially disassemble the shifter or get access to the electrical connector you should be able to check for the proper voltage signals when the key is in the ignition.  This will require some basic mechanical knowledge and possibly a wiring diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T19:37:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:41:19.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is an interlock between the ignition and the shifter, as well as an interlock between the shifter and the brake pedal.  Something could have gotten messed up somewhere.  There is a procedure to move the shifter, if stepping on the brake and the key system don't allow it.  Check your owners guide. Generally there is a small removable plastic cover near the shift lever on the floor.  Normally that is used to aid in getting the car moved for repair as necessary (its not use daily type of procedure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would NOT think installing a new shifter kit will fix this.  Much better off to find the specific root cause for the defect and fix that.   I'm thinking the interlock is based on electrical signals. Perhaps you've got a frayed wire, bad sensor or small bits of metal or other contamination in the wrong place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd pick up the Chilton or Haynes $30 manual, start the troubleshooting procedure there, check ALL the connections between brake, ignition and shifter system to ensure everything is working as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was the cause of the key getting stuck?  Sometimes if you park on a slight hill, with the wheels at an angle, there is a pressure from the car on the steering wheel that creates a lockup condition when you go to remove the key.  The fix is to gently turn the wheel in both directions when trying to insert and turn (or remove) the key.  What caused the key to get stuck and what did you do to fix that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note, that the brake pedal may have one or two switches on it.  The brake lights, cruise control and shifter interlock systems all need to know if the brake pedal is pushed in. I'm not positive about your car (I think it only has one switch) but Ford has used both one and two switch designs in the past.  I've seen intermittent Ford brake switches. They are doggone difficult to troubleshoot.  The good news is they are pretty inexpensive parts to replace.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T21:01:08.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T21:01:08.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T19:47:04.280" Score="3" ViewCount="4057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue and after about 20 minutes of driving the temperature gauge is between one half and 3 quarters. I was wondering if is this a problem? The coolant is at the right level, and it looks brown. The car has almost 170k+ miles on it. Thank you for your time and any maintenance tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15944" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T19:58:00.017" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:26:29.590" Title="Temperature gauge between half and 3 quarters?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|temperature|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:06:57.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best to check the intake valve seals. If the shim is too large it won't allow the valve to seat properly, allowing pressure to be pushed back into the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16667" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T20:35:51.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:35:51.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28696" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:19:44.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What stands out the most is that the coolant is brown. I have never heard of a coolant that is supposed to be brown. They are generally a yellowish green. It sounds like you need to replace the coolant, and then see where your gauge goes. For a specific car, without a specific temperature label, it's hard to know if that reading is too high or not. Perhaps if there is a red band on the gauge, if you're getting close, then it is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to change the fluid, first thing, look up what kind of coolant your car calls for. The Chilton's, or Hayne's manual will have that, as well as your owners manual. Get the right kind of coolant your car was designed for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about your car in particular, but generally speaking, older cars have a drain valve / petcock on the bottom of the radiator. Put the car front end on jack stands (NOT just a floor jack, jack stands) and put a large bucket under the drain. With the engine cold, open the valve and let the coolant drain into the bucket. After it slows, remove the lower radiator hose to drain the remainder of the fluid. Once it stops, replace the hose, close the valve, and fill the radiator with the new fluid. Your manuals will tell you how much coolant your car needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing about about this. Your coolant is really dirty, and there will still be pockets of that nasty fluid inside the engine after you drain it this way. Hopefully one of our experts here can suggest a way to cycle that nasty fluid out so you only have to do this replacement once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: That bad coolant is very poisonous to pets and animals. It's also very sweet so it tends to be irresistible to them. It should be bottled and taken to a recycling facility for proper disposal. You can even pour it into the jug you bought the new fluid in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T20:26:29.590" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:26:29.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25277" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:44:16.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Circling back to post the resolution.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was afraid that the block was cracked, but was hoping that it was the freeze plugs. A quick survey of mechanics that have worked on Nissans suggested there was about a 50/50 chance. Had to take it to 3 different shops, but finally got the tranny out and it was the freeze plugs after all. But once they fixed that and pressurized the system, there was enough other damage that showed up that it wasn't worth fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I won and I lost. I won the bet that it was the freeze plugs. I lost the $450 for removing the tranny and lost the truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 wins the prize for the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14605" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:44:16.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28704" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:55:21.997" Score="6" ViewCount="5572" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2003 Opel Agila 1.2, I try to save fuel and stop the engine manually (by turning the key) when in traffic or waiting at traffic lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when in traffic I can stop and start my engine up to 5-10 times in 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody told me this can destroy my starter motor, but my engine starts up in under a second, so there is not much cranking happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wearing things out by stopping and starting the engine multiple times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that my car does not have Start-Stop technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T21:32:51.953" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:04:12.533" Title="Does starting and stopping the engine lots over a short period of time in a non start-stop car damage anything?" Tags="|starting|engine-theory|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-24T20:08:02.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2016-04-21T21:03:32.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, it depends on a vehicle and driving conditions:&#xA;- Toyota Corolla, driving for 8 years and never had a problem with tranny when shifting D-N-D often. Need to be careful when RPM doesn't match speed: for example N-D shift at 0 with high RPM (when need to move, switch to Drive is forgotten and gas is pressed), it may jolt or even break, or when speed is high and engines RPM is below 1000, idle, neutral - this can be easily coordinated by adding RPM above 2k and then switching to D.&#xA;- Honda Pilot, I never do it because a. steering wheel switch is inconvenient b. Honda tranny's are not very good, fail a lot per stats, and jolt sometimes even from normal use.&#xA;- Driving in mountains: neutral is never recommended. Even more, stay at lower gear or lowest gear when going long downhill&#xA;- Driving in winter conditions: could be good idea to stay on D as much as possible, however Canadian winter driving instructors officially recommend switching to N and breaking when emergency breaking is needed - they explain it, and I tested it, by shorter breaking distance when engine is not engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way gas saving on N are not significant, zero when N on stop lights, and a little bit like 1-2 miles per gallon when going non-steep downhills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16668" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T21:03:32.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28700" CreationDate="2016-04-21T21:14:01.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suspect that it is causing extra wear on the starter motor and flywheel (where the starter motor engages).  Considering the start isn't in motion at any point other than starting the car, and there's no contact between it and the flywheel unless you are running the starter, you are causing more wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the cost of replacing those parts, it may or may not be cost effective to start/stop your car.  Not sure how accurate it is, but a study mentioned here (&lt;a href=&quot;http://greenactioncentre.ca/living-green-living-well/myth-2-its-better-to-idle-your-car-than-shut-it-off/&quot;&gt;http://greenactioncentre.ca/living-green-living-well/myth-2-its-better-to-idle-your-car-than-shut-it-off/&lt;/a&gt;) says that the break-even point is somewhere between 30 to 60 seconds.  If you are idling for more than 30-60 seconds, it'll be more cost effective to turn the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind local laws.  I'm not sure about your neck of the woods, but there may be laws that state you have to have your vehicle running while in a driving lane.  I've never heard of such a law being enforced, but it should be considered.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16669" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T21:14:01.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28700" CreationDate="2016-04-21T22:05:41.637" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind is that the time an engine takes a great deal of its wear is cold starts. The oil isn't up to temperature yet, so parts are not separated as they should be and you get more wear. If you do this very frequently, like going from red light to red light, you're probably doing more harm than good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if your car does not start as you would hope, now you're holding up traffic while you get it started. If the car had been designed for this, I.E. start/stop technology, then you would be fine. But I would not suggest it for a car that wasn't designed for this. Especially before it's completely up to operating temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T20:04:12.533" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:04:12.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28706" CreationDate="2016-04-21T22:27:26.153" Score="10" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I imagine a direct injection injector as a fuel injector squirting fuel directly into the combustion chamber.  The amount of pressure in the combustion chamber would seem to be enough to push the fuel back into the injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously that is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a direct injection injector any different than a port injection injector in terms of how it works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they keep the pressure of combustion from escaping into the injector itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a diagram?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell me like I'm 5.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T12:36:39.900" Title="Direct Injection Injectors - How do they prevent blow back into the fuel system?" Tags="|fuel-system|engine-theory|fuel-injection|pressure|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2016-04-22T00:12:28.707" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will try to answer this as best as possible. There are a few factors that come into play here (Mainly the manufacturer of said engine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct injection petrol engines work much like a diesel. You have a low pressure fuel pump that resides in the fuel tank itself, and a super high pressure pump that sits near the fuel rail that delivers fuel to the injectors. The high pressure pump is the first way fuel &quot;Blow back&quot; is avoided. It sits at a constant high pressure, which is MUCH MUCH greater than that of the combustion chamber. We know that if pressure of one atmosphere meets another and it is greater; Any fluid substance will not be able to pressurize. SO, being that the pump is pumping faster, and greater pressure that fuel should not be able to back wash into the injector theoretically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second step in this &quot;Sealing&quot; process is the injector itself. The injector has massive solenoids that allow it to open and close with great force. There should be several high strength rubber seals and a giant magnet. Unlike a normal solenoid these types of injectors can actuate both ways. Typically a standard fuel injector can only receive power to OPEN it. In a direct injection engine, they can be both opened and forced closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of hard to answer the question VERY thoroughly because it's not really that complicated, but if you want to ask this on an engineering forum that would probably be good too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it all boils down to, is that all of the seals and systems were engineered to handle it. There are MANY different types of these injectors as well, so it might be specific to that car. I hope I gave you a little insight at the very least. Check this video out too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjJSbHxIvnM&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjJSbHxIvnM&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T00:12:28.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28681" CreationDate="2016-04-22T01:02:58.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest you need to be able to view live data using a scan tool. If you don't have access to these it may be cheaper to take it to a shop that specializes in Hondas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not inconceivable that both AFR sensors failed at the same time, but unlikely. Don't replace potentially expensive AFR sensors without doing basic checks first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXx77.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXx77.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for vacuum leaks (using something like starting fluid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check signal return voltage at the AFR sensor connector while introducing a vacuum leak or adding propane. If the sensor is&#xA;functioning correctly and all wiring is OK the sensor should quickly&#xA;respond to changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check sensor heater resistance (0.8Ω - 2.0Ω) at operating temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the wiring harness for damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T01:11:56.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T01:11:56.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28640" CreationDate="2016-04-22T01:15:37.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get a bunch of carburetor cleaner and some oil picks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, it's not a big job but it's a little nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having some metal mixing bowls to put the EGR into when you spray it down will help to contain the mess into a nice consolidated little package.  Using some glovers as well is not a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I've done it and I've only done one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Visually inspect it.  Look for buildup that may block the operation of the vacuum valve.  Ensure the vacuum diaphragm functions and the piston can retract.  If it cannot, carbon buildup may be preventing it.  Ensure the diaphragm is not compromised and can retain a vacuum.  No splits, cracks or holes in the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spray a bunch of carburetor cleaner into it.  Pick away the chunks with the oil pick.  Let the carb cleaner soak in.  Wash, rinse, repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When your done, you'll know it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use a mityvac to test the operation of the vacuum piston&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools you'll need&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10mm socket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ratchet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extension for socket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=oil%20picks&amp;amp;oq=oil%20picks&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1557j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=automotive%20tools%20oil%20picks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oil Picks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shop Rags&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old tooth brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor Cleaner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=stainless%20steel%20mixing%20bowls&amp;amp;oq=stainless%20steel%20mixing%20bowls&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.4989j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stainless Steel Mixing Bowls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=rubber%20mechanics%20gloves&amp;amp;oq=rubber%20mechanics%20gloves&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.8946j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=disposable%20rubber%20mechanics%20gloves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disposable Rubber Mechanics Gloves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T07:29:16.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T07:29:16.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26851" CreationDate="2016-04-22T01:31:36.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goto the dealership&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you goto the dealership for the manufacturer of your car you can bring some things with you to get a key, possibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drivers license, passport&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;VIN Number of your vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Title of the car - with your name on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership can cut you key.  IF your key needs to be programmed into your cars system you will need to get an authorized dealership to associate your key with the car.  You'll need your ID and the title again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T01:31:36.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T01:52:52.747" Score="4" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Subaru with All Wheel Drive. I can feel in some circumstances the larger and more complex drivetrain &quot;winding and unwinding&quot; all those differentials and CV joints. It feels unpleasant, so I pause for a moment in Neutral before going to Park or Reverse, and then I do not feel the jerking and thumping that would otherwise happen. &lt;strong&gt;Is this a useful improvement?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that shifting from Neutral to Park goes through Reverse, but if I do it reasonably fast, Reverse does not engage. (In case it was not clear, this is an automatic transmission car. I just added the tag days after asking.) I also do this on other cars, not just the Subaru, and it similarly helps with the thumps and jerks of changing direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15009" LastEditorDisplayName="user15009" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T14:01:56.530" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:01:56.530" Title="Does it save wear on AWD drivetrain to shift to Neutral before going into Park or Reverse?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|drivetrain|awd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26833" CreationDate="2016-04-22T02:41:09.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start off by saying that this may not be an answer, but rather a methodology for diagnosis. On that Subaru, the turbo should be to the right hand side of the engine. You have oil pick up and return lines for the turbo. By design the serpentine belt can swing oil up onto the ceiling of the hood if they leak. The easiest way to troubleshoot this issue would be to clean the engine bay as much as possible. Once clean, apply this dye &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/TRC6/TP30900601/N2323.oap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/TRC6/TP30900601/N2323.oap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't have to be that brand, but I've found when phantom oil leaks occur; This is a life saver. The problem with troubleshooting oil leaks is that they make a huge mess and it's impossible to actually determine where the oil is leaking from. I usually wait until it's dark, get a black light and let the car run. Once the leak occurs it's very obvious. I hope this was a little helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T02:41:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2016-04-22T02:52:24.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;best&quot; process is subjective, but most professional welders can weld almost anything almost anywhere with almost any process.  That said, the ones I work with clearly prefer TIG over MIG, and MIG over stick, and stick over torches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you find someone to teach you whose equipment you can also borrow, and follow their guidance - there are enough variables left unmentioned in your question that it's not something we can answer objectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Ford publishes the Ford Truck Body Builder Advisory Service, which provides their body builders book and specific information on each vehicle regarding portions of the frame you shouldn't weld, how to attach certain items, and some dimensions, wiring, and other information vehicle modification businesses need as they modify their vehicles.  Included are the econoline vans, so you should find a great deal of information there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I now notice that they don't have information on your older vehicle.  There is still some general recommendations, and you'll find the dimensions and many other aspects of the van are very similar, if not unchanged, for later models, so it may still be a good use of time to visit that site and see what is applicable to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can call Ford and request the earlier manuals, but they apparently don't have them digitized and online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T02:52:24.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28711" CreationDate="2016-04-22T04:19:23.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jerking and thumping when shifting through gears is an indication that you have bad either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad engine mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad transmission mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad differential mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad axles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a combination or all of the above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting into neutral does relieve the &quot;tension&quot;, as you put it, but you need to care care of these issues. They can end up being costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T04:19:23.047" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2016-04-22T06:13:11.073" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cylinder pressure is in the 200 psi range. GDI fuel pressure is varied from 500 up to around 3000 psi. This alone is enough to keep fuel blow-back to a minimum. Carefully engineered injector pintle shape also helps. This is no different than port injectors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is unusual is how the pintle is moved in a GDI injector. In the most successful designs the motion of the pintle is performed by a long stack of many piezoelectric crystals. As each crystal is energized it vibrates, effectively making it larger. Add several hundred of these in a stack and you can get enough motion to move a pintle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/tech-department-piezo-fuel-injectors-explained&quot;&gt;Article with picture of piezoelectric actuated injector&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T06:13:11.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T06:17:56.057" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought my car, 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix and 30 minute it started to over heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealership had no water or transmission fluid so I put both. All of a sudden I turn the car to start makes a screeching noise but I turn it off it stays on. OK, so I drive home. Alarm start going off and locks going crazy. Now it won't start at all please help me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is good but it just won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16678" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T06:25:29.093" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T06:25:29.093" Title="04 Pontiac grand Prix fail" Tags="|pontiac|overheating|alarm|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T23:03:50.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T06:19:09.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't modern engines use a thermocouple (electronic temperature sensor) instead of a (wax element) thermostat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T09:13:33.230" Title="Thermocouple vs Thermostat" Tags="|cooling-system|heat|temperature|thermostat|thermodynamics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28673" CreationDate="2016-04-22T06:49:16.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We see this hard chrome chipping and often. It is caused by the materials; specifically the large hardness difference between the chrome plating and the aluminum wheel material. The more flexible wheel changes shape as it is stressed by road bumps and the hard chrome cannot flex so it breaks away. Then corrosion gets going under the cracked away flakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After attempts to salvage several sets of wheels with this disease with no success... I would replace the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T06:49:16.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28673" CreationDate="2016-04-22T07:11:13.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That's not steel and chrome, that's aluminum.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a coating over the rim.  It's some sort of epoxy.  It seals the oxygen from touching the aluminium so aluminium oxides aren't created.  What you see there is aluminium oxide on the rim.  I will slowly eat the rim and 2000 years from now it will be a small piece of aluminium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stop the creep of oxides you are experiencing you have to burn many calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get a buffing wheel and any kind of gritty polish.  Chrome, rubbing compound, even wax, if that's all you have.  Squirt a bunch of it every where and use the buffing wheel and start focusing on the worst areas. You will see it get nicer and nicer. You can also use 1000 grit sand paper to make it better.  If you are getting pitting then it will take considerably longer.  You will know what pitting is when you get there.  Small intrusions into the aluminium that looks as if a small stone were there, spinning. You can be glad if you have no pitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a lot of work if you want to fix it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do fix it, be prepared to feel really good and have a sense of accomplishment because you worked so hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buffing is an art.  It's not next level but it requires patience.  Sometimes you might want to squirt just a bit of water on the spot you are buffing.  Get the cotton cloth type of wheel to put on a drill or other similar device that is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloth with a bit of moisture and rubbing compound, 600 grit or higher, will begin to get a hard flat surface on it.  That's exactly what you want.  When you get it there, just keep adding little swipes of rubbing compound, chrome polish...to it as you go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will make your rims shine, especially if you penetrate the clear coat layer that protects the aluminum from the elements (oxygen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make them shine like chrome.  It just takes awhile and A LOT OF CALORIES.  If you don't have a drill at a minimum you will kill yourself doing it by hand, so don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;work ethic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will look as good as you make them look.  As time goes by you will want to buff them for maybe 30 minutes every month.  If you like shiny, they will be good.  If you don't like shiny, takes these down to a local aluminium recycling plant and get some beer money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a set of these over Christmas that were much worse for it.  I got hit by a car and polished rims.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could end up looking like this if you dig deep and do it all weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTpFh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTpFh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would give it a shot, but that's me.  Be prepared to do it for half the weekend, this includes sleeping in on day two because you drank 5 beers and polished on day one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get to done, you will be happy.  Just go for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T19:43:24.983" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T19:43:24.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28155" CreationDate="2016-04-22T07:21:57.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;since your getting your tensioner in, I'll throw in&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm rollin with the tensioner.  ALL IN!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve ticking can sometimes sound like a tenionser.  Your description of valve lash setting makes feel good about it, I can see hours of double checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The stock tensioner is admittedly a POS.  A manual one can make things better or it can make them worse, it's up to you&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend not over tightening the cam chain.  Sometimes it sounds better but only because you can make the so tight they sound like a jet but that's not what we're trying to do here.  we want an nice even flow, even just a hair loos, if the manual can push it rod further in against the tensioner without intervention.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND THIS IS THE KEY...non intervention.  Let it idle and run it and turn the manual scew in a 1/4 turn at a time.  Be patient and you will find your mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual is they way to go.   Please let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T07:21:57.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28717" CreationDate="2016-04-22T07:27:09.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thermocouple merely generates voltage according to the temperature, while an automotive thermostat is basically an autonomous temperature sensitive coolant valve. You can't replace a thermostat with a thermocouple because their functions are completely different. You could replace a coolant sensor with a thermocouple, but resistive sensors are more convenient to use in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T09:13:33.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T09:13:33.230" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28660" CreationDate="2016-04-22T07:34:08.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jam your hand up in there&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move crap around.  push on it really hard, various things and keep hitting the remote while you do it.  Eventually you will get into the trunk with brute force....but damage anything on you path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reach in there and do it.  My kid did it for a Malibu so you should be able to with the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one here, 2003, if you want me try anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T07:34:08.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T11:13:50.193" Score="3" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got the p0420 code and narrowed the issue down to needing a new cat. Thought i'd be smart and went to Walker identify the exhaust for a basic '04 Nissan Xterra XE, 4WD, 3.3L. Found the parts for the manifold cat, boom, purchased from Amazon. Thought I was on the road to repairing this, part comes in, take it out to the garage to drop off the cat and low and behold they don't match! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased this puppy:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00C564QWA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Walker 16500&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;But when I went to match it up. It looks like the manifold cat and the manifold are a single unit. They certainly don't have the triangular flange as indicated.   See picture: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0bO9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0bO9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then decided to search for the exhaust manifold, assuming that the vehiclle/model had a singular exhaust manifold/cat and only found an exhaust manifold that appears to match the cat manifold that I purchased (and was incompatible with the installed exhaust manifold). What have I missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T11:56:24.993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T11:56:24.993" Title="Oddball Cat and Exhaust Manifold 04 Nissan Xterra" Tags="|nissan|exhaust|xterra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28727" CreationDate="2016-04-22T11:19:51.680" Score="17" ViewCount="62692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come across this term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it mean to retard an engine? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When would you typically have to do such a thing? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can happen if you don't or incorrectly retard the engine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of vehicle or machine require engine retarding?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:15:05.477" Title="What does it mean to retard an engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28724" CreationDate="2016-04-22T11:53:59.557" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advancing or retarding an engine is the term used to describe adjusting the timing slightly to make the spark occur slightly earlier (Advanced) or later (retarded). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the timing is set so that the spark occurs slightly before (in advance of) top dead centre (TDC), because it takes time for the air-fuel mixture to burn and expand - you ideally want the mixture to fully burn by just after TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spark occurs too early, you can get the expansion happening before the piston begins to move down, which will cause knocking, and possibly engine damage. If it occurs too late, you lose power as the piston has already moved some way back down the piston - you'll also lose fuel economy and could get overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact timing needed depends on a lot of factors, such as the engine speed, load, fuel octane rating and temperature - for example, as the engine gets faster, the timing will need to be advanced further, so that the fuel still has time to burn - the cycle is shorter but the fuel still needs the same amount of time. Equally, as load increases, you need to advance less, as a larger air/fuel ratio burns quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the manufacturer will specify the amount of advance needed (e.g. 10 degrees before TDC), and adjustments are noted relative to that (so 9 degrees would be referred to as &quot;retarded by one degree&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most adjustment is done automatically, either be a mechanical or vacuum system in older cars, or by the ECU in modern vehicles. You'd only typically have to adjust it manually if you have changed something, e.g. tuning up the engine or running on a different fuel to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page on Ignition timing&lt;/a&gt; for more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T14:33:48.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:33:48.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28724" CreationDate="2016-04-22T12:25:04.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does retarding an engine mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retarding an engine is essentially a vague, but blunt term. It just means that in one way or another, you are hindering the engines ability to provide driving force, and in some applications you are actually using a device to work against the engine and vehicle.. There are several ways to do this and several reasons for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most famous engine retarder is the &lt;em&gt;Jake Brake&lt;/em&gt;. It was designed to open and close the exhaust valves very late to use the pressure from the engine in an attempt to retard the engine. This was done so that large machinery and semi trucks could come to a more quick and even stop. Rather than having to use and heat up their brakes while stopping or traveling downhill, this could be used instead.&#xA;Here is a video of what it sounds like and a video demonstrating it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qocMoTOVn6Q&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qocMoTOVn6Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kl3NLWrj_sA&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kl3NLWrj_sA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retarding the ignition timing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retarding the ignition timing can be useful for a few things, but is generally left untouched. Reasons for doing this would be for non-computer managed fuel economy, a car that has minor forced induction and non-computer management, if the vehicle isn't performing as desired, and some engines will actually benefit and gain horsepower from retarded timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydraulic retarders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic retarders are essentially the same design as a torque converter in the sense that they have small veins that hydraulic fluid passes through. HOWEVER they do the opposite, they help slow down the motion of the drive-train. The reason for these can vary greatly. I've seen small cars with them, and typically you see large machinery with them. They serve the same purpose, but are more robust and can do a much quieter and smoother job of slowing things down. These are usually switched on and there are secondary pumps that help assist the hydraulic fluid in stopping what ever it is that you're trying to stop. Generally you would find it just after your drive shaft, because it is usually a stand-alone unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can happen if you don't correctly retard the engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your method of retarding the engine, generally nothing catastrophic. Just lack of power and poor gas mileage. I'm saying this assuming you're not adjusting engine cams and things of that nature. Cylinders do not like flame. When you retard the timing without compensating for it, the combustion chamber will ignite late. This actually causes a &quot;fire&quot; inside the cylinder and probably lots of misfires. This will eventually eat away at your valves and cylinder walls. It can also cause the exhaust manifold to heat WAY up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as for the other methods mentioned, those systems typically come on larger machinery and are installed by the factory. IF you tinker with it, it could actually be a huge problem. I've seen Caterpillar do testing on their engines and JUST the right amount will destroy the engine. Trust me, it's way worse than blowing up your Honda at the drag strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I covered most of what you wanted to know. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T12:25:04.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2016-04-22T12:36:39.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely there is a far simpler answer to this.  Fuel in injected on the &quot;suck&quot; stroke, when the piston crown is traveling down the bore, thus effectively creating negative pressure in the combustion chamber.  There is therefore no pressure to be pushed back into the injector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the fuel is at a serious pressure, yes the injector is effectively a one-way valve but the main reason it doesn't blow back is the same reason that fuel isn't pushed back into a carburetor on an older engine.  When the valve is open, the piston is traveling down the bore, it is sucking air and fuel into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T12:36:39.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:30:17.670" Score="7" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently just started to notice that my car is slightly pulling to the left right after I took my winter tires off. It's not much. If i let go it will go straight for a few meters before pulling. Is it worth getting it realigned ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an AWD car as well and I checked the tire pressure and made sure the brakes were not sticking. I also checked the wheel and rim to make sure it was not warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16685" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T14:00:41.157" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:08:39.010" Title="Should I get a wheel alignment?" Tags="|alignment|awd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8550" CreationDate="2016-04-22T13:57:22.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing - a broken spring at a rear wheel. I did drive it a few months till I got to fix it (I was a student and I didn't have enough money at the time) but I did go slower and been more careful and things worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go slower, be more careful and repair it as fast as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T13:57:22.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28729" CreationDate="2016-04-22T14:08:39.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer. Yes. Your vehicle could be pulling to the right for several reasons. It could be uneven tire wear (which would likely have been caused by an alignment issue), tire pressure (which you've checked), wheel damage (which you've checked) or misalignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might try before going for an alignment is making sure that all four of your wheels are seated flat against the hub. If any debris made its way between the wheel and the hub while you were swapping your tires, it could cause some drift. Also, just make sure all of your lug nuts are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:08:39.010" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28724" CreationDate="2016-04-22T14:34:15.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Retarding an engine is usually done on industrial or fixed installation engines that do things like run conveyor belts or other pieces of equipment at a fixed speed. Retarding the engine simply means to slow down the operating speed of the engine, usually to control the equipment or process they are driving. For example, if you had an engine that was running a beer bottling line, and for some reason the pallets of bottled beer couldn't be moved to the warehouse quickly enough, you would retard the engine to slow the line down so that the warehouse drivers could keep up with production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:34:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28748" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:08:38.997" Score="3" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to estimate the feasibility of installing an after market pneumatic suspension (called sometimes air bags suspension?) for a VW Tiguan. The Touareg, for example, has a factory optional equipment of this kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose for this project would be not to lower the car in order to improve high speed maneuverability but to be able to raise the car when going through tough roads and then getting back to a given height. Optionally lower the car a bit as a default position so high speed maneuverability would be improved a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not even informed enough to conduct searches on the internet, what keywords to look for and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would find a kit.  In order to better understand a pneumatic suspension I would like to know the benefits of using this type of a system in my vehicle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will installing a pneumatic suspension damage my vehicle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the pro's and con's to pneumatic suspensions?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Could people point me to a resource where I can find out more on this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T15:49:24.720" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:37:57.307" Title="Aftermarket Pneumatic Suspension - Pro's and Con's" Tags="|vw|suspension|aftermarket-upgrade|chassis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29443" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:12:22.720" Score="16" ViewCount="3470" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know sometimes you read something and think &quot;What?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, would you be happy to drive a 900 BHP car in a competition with lug nuts missing?  Apparently NASCAR has introduced a rule change so that teams no longer have to fit all of the lug nuts after a tyre change.  This may see some cars on the track with just three of five lug nuts fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, one of the drivers for next season, Tony Stewart, has just been handed down a $35,000 fine for expressing that opinion that this may be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apparent reason for the rule change is that they hope to reduce the number of mechanics in the box during a pit stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my own opinion on why this is the wrong thing to do.  In the early 1980's, Lancia engineers, working as service crew on the Lancia 037 Group B car, devised a wrench which was essentially multiple equal length extension bars with magnetic sockets on the end.  The &quot;drive&quot; wrench would run in the opposite direction to what was required and turn a central cog to drive each socket at the same time.  This meant all lug nuts could be removed and refitted by a single mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMkqr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMkqr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Multiple lug nut wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious alternative to this is an F1 style single centre nut on a large spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASCAR appear to have ignored this technical solution and have simply changed the rules to allow what I would personally call incorrectly fitted wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've personally used a car with one nut removed from each wheel after someone tried to steal my wheels, removed all but the locking nut from one wheel and obviously took the nuts with them.  This was only done to get the car home where the missing nuts were replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen the damage that can be done to a wheel with an incorrectly fitted retaining nut as the Viper did one complete lap of Silverstone with an incorrectly fitted front wheel.  When it returned to the pits, the wheel was full of swarf and significantly damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is this; would you consider it safe to use a car with missing wheel nuts / lug nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Anyone involved in NASCAR professionally probably shouldn't answer this question for fear they receive a fine too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested, to clarify what I mean by &quot;is it safe?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if there are any engineering calculations that can be applied to different nut configurations?  Is there likely to be increased failures running in the reduced lug nut configuration?  Have there been any case studies into this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't just want an opinion of &quot;Oh, I think it'll be fine.&quot; or &quot;Oh, I don't think it's a good idea.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T15:28:21.363" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T14:00:53.433" Title="Is it safe to drive in race conditions with missing lug nuts?" Tags="|safety|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28822" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:15:35.477" Score="3" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I have a 2005 Honda Civic DX 4dr Sedan with a 5 speed manual Transmission, Standard everything, no power windows, A/C, plain basic setup.&#xA;So the other day suddenly my Gauge cluster stops working, it still lights up and all other lights work as well like the turn signal indicators, but the gauges themselves are dead and parked in the &quot;zero&quot; position, also my intermittent wipers don't work, but the regular speed and fast speed work. This all happened a few days ago. My question is this ... is there a controller unit that operates these functions? That maybe could be &quot;flashed&quot;, or does the gauge cluster unit have control of this? I tried to check for a ground wire or something loose, but couldn't see anything. Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16688" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T13:55:24.373" Title="2005 Honda DX 4dr 5spd - Gauge Cluster and Int Wipers not working, why?" Tags="|honda|electrical|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:25:22.613" Score="5" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom's Toyota Camry revs as high as 4500rpms in both park and neutral and stays that high until put in a different gear any ideas would be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16690" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T19:36:04.553" Title="1989 toyota camry revving to 4-5k in park and neutral" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28581" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:30:08.637" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going to take a stab at this...  I am not an expert, just what I've put together in my head.  A lot of this gets into more general engine tuning/building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BSFC is basically how much power you output for a given amount of fuel. For a given engine, this is dependent on load and RPM.  Your lowest BSFC is around your maximum torque at part-throttle.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOgSj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOgSj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all has to do with how efficiently your fuel is being burned and turned into rotating force. Most of how efficiently your fuel burns comes from how well atomized the fuel is.  This depends on air velocity and temperature of your air/fuel mixture.  Gasoline vaporizes at 196*F, so anything above that should be good.  Air velocity is said to be best around the speed of sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not 100% sure on how this is exactly calculated, but I would image it would require a dynamometer to measure power output and some way of measuring fuel consumption, possible calculated through fuel pressure, flow rate, and pulse width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BSFC shows how efficiently the fuel is being burned.  This is important for engine efficiency and getting good power and gas mileage out of your engine.  When manufacturers determine the gearing of the transmission, they want the vehicle to be at peak efficiency around 60mph (since most highways have a speed limit of 55 or 65).  This means the final drive (through the transmission top gear, differential, and tire size) will be set so the RPM is around the lowest BSFC while on the highway.  Your torque converter will likely be set at a similar RPM, but this is partially because of it being near max torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPM matters for 2 reason - air velocity and heat absorption.  At lower RPM, the air velocity is not moving fast enough to properly atomize the fuel.  At higher RPM, the fuel is not soaking up much heat before being ignited, and does not burn as efficiently.  Your sweet spot is in the middle somewhere.  This is dependent upon a lot of things I will get into later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Load is similar.  When the throttle is closed, the air velocity is slow.  At higher throttle, you need to run the engine a bit rich to absorb some of the heat generated.  This is a big deal on forced induction engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO as to how to change the BSFC on an engine...  basically EVERYTHING matters, but I will get into some of the more key points.  All of your parts need to work together, so aim for the same RPM range of power on all parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher &lt;strong&gt;compressions ratio&lt;/strong&gt; means more power is generated from every combustion.  This causes BFSC to go down.  The main limitation here is how far you can go before you start generating too much heat for it to be efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer &lt;strong&gt;stroke&lt;/strong&gt; means you have more mechanical advantage when the piston is pushed down.  This should give you a lower BSFC.  Longer stroke lowers the RPM of the lowest BSFC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camshafts&lt;/strong&gt; - the main specs here are lift, duration, and overlap. These factors work together to determine where your engine produces the most power.  In relating this to BSFC, it will be lowest when your air velocity is most optimal.  Camshafts alone are worth of a long discussion.  Typically, for a given cam shaft, advance to move power up, retard to move power down.  For the lowest BSFC, aim for power around max torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake Manifold&lt;/strong&gt; - Again, air velocity.  Long narrow ports for low RPM, short wide ports for high RPM.  Tune it for max torque for lowest BSFC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust&lt;/strong&gt; - Not sure exactly how exhaust is tuned, but I believe it again deals with the velocity of the exhaust gases.  A little bit of back pressure is said to help torque.  Likely to help heat incoming air/fuel.  Air should flow efficiently.  Pipes should be an appropriate size, if they are too large, you will loose velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignition timing&lt;/strong&gt; - Everything ignition related basically just needs to work correctly.  The timing should be set as advanced as possible without causing pinging.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel tuning&lt;/strong&gt; - you want it to run as close to stoichiometric (14.7:1) as possible.  You might be able to go a little lean.  This is a constant battle between efficiency and heat.  Fuel helps remove heat from the cylinder, but unburned fuel is inefficient.  Too little fuel causes too much heat and you get detonation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air intake&lt;/strong&gt; - Warm air provides better BSFC as it atomizes the fuel better.  Most engines have an EGR valve to help heat the air in the intake at part throttle and idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water Injection&lt;/strong&gt; - I've mentioned the battle between heat and efficiency and using fuel to keep the cylinders cool.  It is possible to use water injection to keep the cylinders cool while using less fuel.  You will still need to stay near stoichiometric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these items are very dynamic and vary based on load and RPM.  This is why cars have electronic ignition, fuel injection, variable valve timing and variable intake manifolds to make engines run efficiently as possible at all RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we are on the subject.  I know a 'mad scientist' of sorts that has designed some interesting things.  He goes by MPGMike on several forums.  He has done a lot of really interesting stuff.  I've met him and talked to him several times at car club meetings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Lynz - Tap the intake ports.  This swirls that air fuel mixture to better atomize the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Singh Groves - patterns cut into the combustion chamber to help turbulence and flame front&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Groove the back of the intake valves for more turbulence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Omni valves -  the outside of the intake valve moves to create a 1 way check valve.  Normally when the intake valve opens, there is positive pressure in the combustion chamber, this makes air in the intake manifold move back a bit before moving into the combustion chamber.  This valve allows super low idle speeds and more torque at lower RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cylinder head modified by him sitting on the shelf with the Lynz, and goves on the CC and intake valves.  Google them for pictures and info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T13:06:37.347" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T13:06:37.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28736" CreationDate="2016-04-22T15:59:10.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a severe vacuum leak.  You are going to be looking at either a bad intake manifold gasket, bad throttle body gasket, or cracked intake manifold.  A brake booster hose MIGHT be able to move that much air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple things to check first.  Vacuum hoses, including the brake booster hose.  Pull off the intake hose and look in the throttle body to see that it is closing all the way.    Clean the EGR valve (if you have one) and verify it is closing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T15:59:10.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:16:26.097" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed my Toyota Camry shimming a bit when coming to stop when braking hard.My husband seems to think it's an alignment issue .Could it be the brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16696" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T17:47:15.963" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:47:15.963" Title="Needs alignment or brakes?" Tags="|toyota|camry|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-23T12:28:02.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:17:42.947" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to replace Headlight Assembly on 1996 Ford Explorer.  I have been able to get 2 of the 3 pins loosened so I can completely pull out the assembly.  The one I am stuck on is (using left side as an example) the pin on the bottom left that the long &quot;rod&quot; is attached to.  I have fat hands and can not maneuver them down to grip with my hand the circular &quot;teeth&quot; that need to be loosed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to get that last clip removed so I can replace my headlight assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16695" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:41:58.187" Title="Replacing Headlight Assembly On Vehicle" Tags="|ford|headlight|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28744" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:18:43.233" Score="12" ViewCount="44570" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be a silly question but I was wondering if a car AC unit be run off entirely on battery or alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this could help in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preventing power loss during important times such as overtaking and climbing     on slopes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing fuel efficiency as the fuel wont be wasted for running the AC.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason that I could think of is for those people who might want to take a short nap and want to use AC without the car running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastEditorUserId="14656" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T09:57:43.543" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T17:27:28.997" Title="Can a car AC unit be run on just the car battery?" Tags="|battery|ac|fuel-consumption|alternator|hvac|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:22:58.800" Score="25" ViewCount="12004" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a friend of mine sent me this picture of a &quot;blow out&quot; that happened on his wife's car (some Infinity coupe).  She said that it just happened all of a sudden with no warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She says she pulled over as soon as possible, but from that severe damage, it seems like something else must have happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4NRj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4NRj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause the entire sidewall of the tire to disintegrate like that?  I'm not sure, but these &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be run flat tires since its a newer, nice car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:27:14.487" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T19:15:15.880" Title="What is my friend's wife not telling him (about this tire)?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:30:34.850" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This tire was driven on long after the blowout&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is sidewall separation from tread carcass like this it had to have been driven on longer than claimed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a tire suffers pressure loss and the car compresses what's left of the tire there's a fold along the sidewall that, if driven on, heats up due to the bending and associated friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the carcass gets hot enough the tread portion will separate from the sidewall, which is what happened here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what actually punctured the tire but it's clearly been driven on for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A word in defense of the driver&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a rear tire failure is not really evident and if you're driving in a straight line you may not know the rear tire is flat if you don't pay attention to such things. Granted, that's bad but, it's the way it is too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driven on long after pressure loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Open Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unable to determine root cause of pressure failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="16846" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T23:02:19.207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:02:19.207" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:36:48.313" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't give you numbers or calculations without some work, but I can tell you than energy is never free.  Cars have an A/C compressor that is mechanically driven by the engine because this is the easiest way to get the job done in a typical consumer car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An A/C compressor actually takes a huge amount of energy to operate.  In fact a central A/C unit for a house uses more electricity than anything else (in a hot climate).  If you want to electrically power the A/C that power needs to come from somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to generate enough power to drive an electric compressor, the required alternator would take even more engine power than the mechanical compressor because of inefficiencies and losses.  If you wanted to use battery power, you would need very large batteries and a more powerful charging system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The electric system would allow you to run soley from batteries in &lt;em&gt;important times&lt;/em&gt;, but the engine management could just as easily turn off the mechanical A/C compressor at those times as well.  Normally people won't melt if they have to do without it for the 20 seconds it takes to pass someone on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T17:53:55.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:53:55.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28739" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:43:03.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a Camry, mine is a 2000 LE, 4 cylinder. It has the shimmy issue when stopping. There are several possible causes for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front brake rotors have more run-out than they should. I don't remember what the spec is, but if this is the problem, they should be replaced rather than machined. If I had to guess it's 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch is the run-out spec. Run-out is just warping of the rotor btw. A situation like braking hard for a very long time, like descending a mountain road for 45 minutes or more, could heat the brakes to the point that they deform some.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front lug nuts are over tight. Sometimes the tire guy at the local shop will push the wheel on and tighten down the lugs with a monster air impact wrench. They will tend to be way over the specified 79 ft-lb torque spec. If they are too tight, they can warp the rotor, and again you have a shimmy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The alignment could be off. If you look at the tires and they are not wearing evenly, then this is likely your candidate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it is actually better than 50/50 odds that it is your brakes, and not the alignment. Or, it could be both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:43:03.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-04-22T17:54:00.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is no. As @JPhi1618 noted, the compressor is mechanically driven. Without the compressor you don't have any cooling. The AC runs by changing the state and pressure of a liquid, and compressing the liquid is a big part of that cycle. If you bolted an electric compressor onto the car you would have to find a way to switch between the mechanical and the electric compressor, and that no one makes. You would have to design and machine it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you will spend far less time and money by just parking in the shade and letting the AC run while the car idles to take your nap. (How do I know this, lol) Not a perfect solution, but much cheaper and easier than trying to compress the AC coolant electrically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:54:00.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-22T18:32:24.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only thing I can think of is that the sidewall was destroyed by a curb at just the wrong height, or something similar. You would have to be fairly oblivious to not notice that the drivers side rear of the car was no longer on a tire, but rater on the sidewall. I would guess it was something faster, like a sewer drain lip, curb, something that dug into the sidewall and nothing else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's really hard to tell what really happened as the damage hides the root cause pretty well. It could be that it was driven on for a long time after the blowout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:32:24.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28733" CreationDate="2016-04-22T18:37:57.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will installing a pneumatic suspension damage my vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessary depending on the kit.  Per your vehicle a company called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.airliftperformance.com/blog/plush-automotive-project-soccer-mom-vw-tiguan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Air Lift&lt;/a&gt; does make an air ride lowering kit for your vehicle that has air bags for the rear that would simply replace the spring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60IK8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60IK8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and air struts for the front that will replace the coilovers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uX1ub.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uX1ub.png&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you would face is if you were to install an air strut, would you need to trim the spring pocket to allow the bag to sit in because you cannot have it rub.  Sometimes it is a simply swap and replace so if you were to ever sell your vehicle you could remove the air system if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the pro's and con's to pneumatic suspensions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PROS:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better ride quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better handling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CONS:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional maintenance will be required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility of blown air bag/strut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lines will have to be checked at scheduled intervals &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically good practice to oil the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased noise (compressor &amp;amp; valves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will have to find a speciality shop that can align your vehicle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could people point me to a resource where I can find out more on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per your question I am unfamiliar of a lifted air suspension for your vehicle.  I've seen a lowered air suspension but that isn't what you're after.  You could always look at purchasing a totaled Touareg suspension or purchasing the struts and air bags for the rear and building your own air management system.  As far as the fabrication goes you could consult with an off road company or consult your local Volkswagen dealer for the air struts/bags.  You could always reference online auction stores like ebay for the struts/bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabrication of a system can be extremely costly if you're not capable of doing it yourself.  Even the air ride lowering system alone starts off around two thousand US dollars and that's not including install time.  That type of system will set you back so I would encourage possibly looking into a mild lift kit by replacing the springs that will assist in adding around 1&quot; more lift for around two hundred US dollars plus whatever the install would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecstuning.com/ES248705/?gclid=CLe7reHwoswCFdcYgQodqfsCJQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;springs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJR6o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJR6o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:37:57.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-22T18:50:48.607" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the look of the rim, it seems it may have been in contact with something ... that something may have been a curb or two. If so, this could have weakened the side wall, which caused catastrophic failure. Given other factors, like if the tire was low on pressure and was continued to be driven on, then this to could have exacerbated the situation. Hot road/area conditions may be of some consequence as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, while I'm sure this appeared to have happened spontaneously to your friend's wife, there were probably a plethora of other circumstances which have caused the tire to become a molten mass of rubber. Rather than allow your friend to beat his wife up (figuratively) over the blown tire, tell him to get it replaced and thank heaven there was no loss of life. Having a blow out like that at highway speeds leaves the driver with just about zero control. Looks like she did a good job of getting the vehicle to the side of the road without loss of life or limb. Have your friend congratulate her on her great control and get some brownie points for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T19:02:18.023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T19:02:18.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28736" CreationDate="2016-04-22T19:36:04.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check for vacuum leaks, you can use something like carb and choke cleaner and spray the hoses that should be sealed. If your idle varies, then you have found the leak. Just be sure that the spray you use wont degrade the hoses and is ok to be consumed by the engine. I believe carb and choke cleaner will not eat the hoses, but double check before using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest checking for codes, but an '89 likely doesn't have an OBDII port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if a Camry that old has an idle air controller, but if it does, I'm wondering if it's stuck open. Only thing is I'm not sure the IAC can get that much air into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps at least some. Nice to know they last that long, I have a 2000 Camry LE..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T19:36:04.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:15:34.467" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't your friend believe his wife? The tire probably blew up when it hit a pothole or curb. She drove without noticing until it started to pull to the side. Probably a little while until she found a safe place to park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's so unbelievable about the above scenario? You and your friend should chill out and be happy that she is OK. Blow outs can kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="13641" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T20:31:00.817" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:31:00.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28771" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:20:18.087" Score="16" ViewCount="24860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very smooth garage floor. When I try to use my wheel ramps for the quick and easy way to raise a vehicle, they will often slide, sometimes just one, but other times both. They will sometimes even continue to slide as the tire pushes them forward. What is an easy/safe way to keep them from sliding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZpgY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZpgY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T22:35:50.517" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T16:57:02.343" Title="How to keep wheel ramps from sliding?" Tags="|tools|safety|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:21:30.690" Score="8" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to get a car tire replaced today, because it was punctured by a rock.  Not a particularly sharp rock either, just your average, everyday rock.  It went straight through a rain groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the car two days ago--it doesn't even have 400 miles on it.  I am either astronomically unlucky (which might be possible, I'll grant) or there is something not right about that tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have the shop dispose of the tire yet, because I want to know if there's some way I can get it tested to see if the tire is defective somehow.  Can I send it someplace?  What sort of defects could the tire have had?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T06:25:48.823" Title="Is there a way to test a failed tire to make sure it meets specs?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:22:55.300" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way would be to use the non-slip padding they make for kitchen shelves. Put a square of that down, and put a slightly smaller 3/4in plywood square on top of it. Then the ramp on top of the plywood. The rubber sheet prevents the slide, and the feet of the ramp dig just enough in the wood to prevent it from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:22:55.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:26:49.477" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Threaded Inserts in your concrete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have placed various &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cement%20threaded%20insert&amp;amp;oq=cement%20threaded%20insert&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0.4730j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot;&gt;threaded interference inserts&lt;/a&gt; in my garage/shop floor.  I've put them in locations where they will be useful to tie down a motorcycle or to have a bolt just sticking out of the cement to prevent something like this from sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used various diameters of insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can use them for a variety of situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle Tie Down&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolt down a ramp&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bench Mount&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hold a transmission jack into place&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;insert task here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've proven to one of the most useful things in my little shop.  I can just move a device and if it requires a little better of a mounting solution, I have it already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you have to be OK with drilling holes in your slab, which I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:26:49.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:31:42.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fasten wooden stoppers to the floor with concrete bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could notch your floor in a specific area for where you would use your stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get a friend to hold the stands in place with a piece of wood as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these are an option for you, as long as you have a steady wall or object in front of the stands, you can create a &quot;deadman&quot;. Obtain sturdy pieces of wood and run it from the wall/object to the stands to prevent them from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:31:42.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28760" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:42:10.060" Score="13" ViewCount="1826" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Moar Horsepower?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The 1979 Mazda RX7 - Desireable Track Car&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems this platform is very popular in club racing today.  You see them as prized possessions at SCCA gatherings to simple track days.  The Wankel engine can be punished time and time again and doesn't suffer from the same weaknesses as the standard reciprocating internal combustion engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, this car is light compared to it's brethren and when given upgrades it's power to weight ratio is hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I make the internal combustion engine better?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*What are some of the performance upgrades that really bring everything together?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR, simply put&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do I get more overall horsepower out of this fantastic platform?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:52:13.457" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:52:13.457" Title="How do you get more horsepower out of a 1979 Mazda RX7?" Tags="|engine|mazda|engine-theory|wankel-engine|rx7|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:47:06.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, Teslas (and presumably other all-electric cars) have A/C so it's not impossible, but A/C takes a fair amount of power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Teslas store a lot of energy. The A/C is something like 2.4kW which is about 8,000 BTU/h or about 3HP. So using an electric motor on a conventional car might give you a few more HP briefly, but the alternator has to eventually make up the deficit, and a bit more for its own inefficiencies.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easier approach would be to drop the A/C clutch out when you tromp on the accelerator. That might allow you to use a smaller engine for the same performance (passing especially) with a simple software change. Probably cars already do that. The A/C would run a bit more after you do that, to keep the cabin air temperature down. No free lunch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always do it with a window air conditioner and a huge inverter, but the efficiency would be pretty bad I bet. The aerodynamics in the below example are also a bit dubious. In a pickup it might actually make sense=- put it in the bed- since a cheap Chinese window A/C is almost free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AfGF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AfGF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12112" LastEditorUserId="12112" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T20:53:09.057" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:53:09.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:55:10.080" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use an old towel underneath the ramp, such that your vehicle runs onto the towel first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ramp&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;|¯¯¯\&lt;br&gt;&#xA;|____\  &lt;code&gt;towel&lt;/code&gt; O&lt;code&gt;wheel&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is possibly the cheapest, simplest &amp;amp; least destructive method (as long as you don't mind your towel maybe getting small holes in it.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Old towels make the best general purpose rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; if the towel still slips once the front wheel leaves the ground, you need more length, you could use a cargo strap (if you have one) instead of a towel - hook it around the ramp, then lay the strap down and drive onto it fully so it's pinched under the back wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16705" LastEditorUserId="16705" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T21:55:22.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T21:55:22.330" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28757" CreationDate="2016-04-22T20:58:47.080" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your praise for this car, I had one back in the day and I have never loved a car as much since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get more from this Wankel powered beauty, it's all about two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting it to breath better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing parts that won't take the higher RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the only part that needs to be replaced, is the RPM gauge sender on the face plate of one of the rotors. It's plastic and won't take the additional rev's well. But, at the time anyway, there was a brass one available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, getting it to breath better, there are a couple things here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting at the intake track, the stock air cleaner and carb need to go. there were downdraft kits available from Weber that really opened up the first part of the intake. There are also air cleaner kits available that have 360 degree openings that allow lots of air to get in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to get the air into the engine, you have to open up both the intake and exhaust ports. I'm not 100% on what the shape needed to be, I think it was just the same shape just make wider, but I don't remember at that level of detail. I do know that you needed to open up both the intake and exhaust ports.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speaking of the exhaust ports, the first thing the exhaust runs into here is a reburn chamber. The Wankel does not burn fuel terribly efficiently and this big bag filled with hot platinum was there to convert the raw unburnt hydrocarbons into something more emissions friendly. Unbolt it from the engine, and throw it away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace that burn chamber with straight pipe. There were several kits available from Rotary Engineering, but that was decades ago, and I don't know if they are even still in business. But what you need is an exhaust header that collects from the two rotors and brings hem to a collector, just as they would for a reciprocating engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a more open exhaust on it next. From the collector to the tailpipe it was pretty easy to go straight from the collector to the muffler. There was not a lot under the car that got in your way. Because you will be running with a lot more unburned fuel coming out your tailpipe, you need to put tips on the muffler that extend it beyond the end of the car. Otherwise you build up a black coating on the bumper and back corner. This can also mean it's running to rich and may need to readjust the carb to lean it out some. There's no ECU in this car to do that for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you had added the horsepower, you can now use the over rev buzzer as a shift light. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the '79 in particular, watch for rust on the rocker panels. Having added that horsepower, you don't want the body rotting out from under you. They were known for that. It was the one big issue with them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T20:58:47.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28757" CreationDate="2016-04-22T21:00:20.833" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like with any other internal combustion engine, there are two ways to increase power output: add more cubic inches of displacement; make the motor &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it has a larger displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More Displacement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotary engine (Wankel) is a different breed. You cannot just bore/stroke the engine like with other piston based engines, so you have to go a different route. The easiest way with these is to &lt;em&gt;add more rotor lobes&lt;/em&gt;. There are kits you can purchase which will allow you to easily do this, though it does take some expertise. Each rotor of a Wankel engine should roughly be considered a 3-cylinder engine if it had pistons. By adding another rotor, you are making a 6-cylinder engine into a 9-cylinder engine (going from two to three rotors). This should have an effect of adding upwards of 50% more power to the engine combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pseudo Larger Displacement&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean by this is to turbocharge your engine. When you turbocharge an engine, you are pushing more air/fuel into the engine, which can allow it to create more power. Due to the way the Wankel engine is designed, there are diminishing returns for this, though. Since there aren't any valves or camshafts, there is no way to control timing events to optimize how the engine will run with the turbo installed. Some of the air/fuel mixture ends up being burnt in the exhaust manifolds. This is a loss of power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other items in this same vane would be to look at other power adders, such as nitrous oxide, which throws a denser air/fuel mixture into the engine, causing more power to be created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, this list is not all inclusive. As evidenced from the @cdunn and @racefever answers, there are other ways to increase power, just not as drastically as what I've talked about here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T02:33:22.117" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T02:33:22.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T22:42:59.590" Score="8" ViewCount="34539" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Scenario&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm changing my left headlight bulb and it says it is a H7U one. What does the U marks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible solutions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched a bit and found two possible solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marks the shape of the bulb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bulb is not ultra violet sensitive, therefore it is suitable for use in Parabollic Plastic Reflectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw the first one mentioned on multiple sites, the second one was told by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corsa-c.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?372790-H7U-vs-H7&amp;amp;s=d5f5d5f284634b7114ee8d24dde57556&amp;amp;p=7497448&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post7497448&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H7U means the bulb is &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; ultra violet sensitive, therefore it is suitable for use in Parabollic Plastic Reflectors as fitted to the later Astra's&#xA;Ordinary H7 halogen bulbs can cause yellowing to some plastic reflectors as experienced in Ford Mondeos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the truth? Does it really indicates shape? What does the shape influence then? Why would there be different type of shapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16711" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T17:52:19.673" Title="What is the difference between H7 and H7U bulbs?" Tags="|headlight|bulbs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28757" CreationDate="2016-04-22T22:53:06.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mow much money do you have? :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all seriousness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap in a later 13B engine and give it a fresh rebuild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a Racing Beat header and exhaust system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Racing Beat intake is also pretty good. Mind you, this is setup for the upper rev range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a good carburetor on it, like a Holley 600 (mechanical secondaries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not remove the belt driven fan! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some gear in it, I don't know if the R200 gear and pinion will fit that year. Look into those. When I say put some gear, I really mean it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tune it like you hate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a really big radiator and a set of twin electric fans. You'll need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you have a lot of money and enjoy blowing seals with boost?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a later 13B-REW and swap it in. Remove the crappy twin setup and put a single turbo with a smallish head unit (like a GT28 sized with ball bearings). Get the 6 speed transmission too while you are at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, learn how to drive it first. Rotaries are hard to drive at speed because everything you know about keeping the engine on its sweet spot is different. Rev the hell out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy some AAA roadside support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. You can do like us knuckleheads and swap in a 3T Toyota engine and tranny and feed it nitrous. It was a fun car while it lasted. D:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T23:05:04.107" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:05:04.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28724" CreationDate="2016-04-22T23:15:05.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some industries at least, like aviation, we often retard the throttle (i.e. reduce engine output), not just the timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:15:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T23:32:21.490" Score="10" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Port Tuning Wankel Engines&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many ways, a wankel engine is like a two-stroke engine.  You can open up the ports to change the timing regarding exhaust and intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ground many an intake, exhaust and transfer port.  In some cases, high performance pistons would come with stencils to place on the cylinder wall to grind the ports the way the piston manufacturer recommended for peak power at higher RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that wankel engines would have the same type of tunability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My Questions:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you port tune a wankel engine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:52:23.770" Title="Wankel Engines - Port Tuning" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|wankel-engine|porting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28770" CreationDate="2016-04-23T00:00:28.523" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 08 Silverado, that has a &quot;click&quot; coming from the engine when it first starts. Once it reaches normal temperature it seems to go away. All the belts look good but beyond that I'm not sure what to look for. Running on recently changed 5w30 oil, upper Midwest, but temps are moderate right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything obvious this might be or anything I can do to further diagnose what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastEditorUserId="16329" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T00:08:25.767" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T00:12:05.910" Title="08 Silverado 5.3 engine &quot;click&quot;" Tags="|engine|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28763" CreationDate="2016-04-23T00:08:52.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an ad by Sylvania:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;100% NEW Genuine Osram / Sylvania H7 Halogen Headlight Bulb.&lt;br /&gt; &#xA;Osram / Sylvania #: 64210 / H7&#xA;12V / 55W / PX26d / UV Filter&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Acura Honda Hyundai Infiniti Porsche Toyota Mini Land Rover&#xA;Mercedes Benz BMW Volvo Volkswagen Audi VW&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Quartz-halogen lamps put out a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of UV as a side effect of how they work and the bands of light they emit.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This ad implies that H7U bulbs have no UV filter, which is bad for the eyes and some plastics.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The LED versions are H7 only, but would put out a small amount of UV light by design.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;After scanning many internet pages, the H7 (including LED versions) seem to dominate the ads.&lt;br /&gt;It would seem the H7U is being phased out due to high UV emissions.&lt;br /&gt;I found this snippet of text in Wikipedia on Halogen lamps:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main article: Automotive lamp types:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Tungsten-halogen lamps have been commonly used as the light sources in automobile headlamps, but are increasing being replaced by Xenon and LED lights.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16540" LastEditorDisplayName="user16540" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T00:47:02.237" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T00:47:02.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-23T00:11:25.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a long enough 2X4 behind both ramps and then two to three cinder blocks behind the wood to keep it from moving. You can substitute the cinder blocks for anything else that's heavy (but don't have your mother in law stand in because then she won't shut up about it). ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|block|       |block|        |block|&#xA;---------------2X4------------------&#xA; |ramp|                      |ramp|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T00:11:25.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28767" CreationDate="2016-04-23T00:12:05.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more than likely one of two things going on here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sticking/Stuck Lifter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a lifter going bad. These tend to make a lot of noise up top, then can quiet down after the oil starts flowing and the engine warms up. This isn't an easy thing to fix, but the lifter quite readily could live the rest of the vehicles life like this without any real issues other than the noise. In order to change out the lifters in your truck, you have to have the heads pulled which is a lot of work. This is something most people could not tackle without some experience and knowledge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try an engine flush to see if it might unstick the lifter, which would be the &quot;easy fix&quot; for this problem. Put a can of SeaFoam into your oil just prior to your next oil change. Run this for no more than 100 miles, then change (or have it changed) the oil and filter. This will get out any gum or varnish which may be causing the lifter to stick. This is well worth a try before you have lifters changed and will not hurt anything in your engine as long as you do not run it longer than the 100 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Exhaust Leak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing it could be is an exhaust leak. These sound a lot like a lifter tap or even sometimes like a rod knock. This happens if an exhaust gasket starts to leak, then as the exhaust manifolds heat up the gap is closed and the noise disappears. To figure out if this might be the issue, look for black suit traces around the exhaust manifolds where they attach to the heads. You may not be able to see it though, if the leaks are on the bottom part underneath where the exhaust ports are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T00:12:05.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28752" CreationDate="2016-04-23T01:01:15.417" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duct Tape. Of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of duct tape and tape it to the lip of the ramp. Run it out 12 inches/30cm and then fold it over and run it back to the ramp. Stick this on the backside of the ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you roll up on the ramp, the tape will be trapped underneath your tire and the ramp will be unable to slide away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SLyx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SLyx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hastily drawn illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16715" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T01:01:15.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T01:22:07.073" Score="1" ViewCount="5002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Changed the coils less than a year ago. My car is sputtering when idling and when driving. Started using premium gas at Chevron---thought it was the gasoline. Mileage is 11600. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can it be the spark plugs?&lt;/strong&gt;   --changed them about one year ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16717" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T01:59:27.647" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:54:31.517" Title="My car is sputtering" Tags="|troubleshooting|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28776" CreationDate="2016-04-23T02:29:56.870" Score="6" ViewCount="4570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my valve cover gasket and the spark plug well sealer gaskets on my 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer recently because of an oil leak. The previous owner (or his mechanic) had over-tightened the bolts on the valve cover and which has resulted in some deformation of the cover around the bolts. I also noticed some marks on the inside of the cover indicating that two of the valves have been touching the valve cover at the top of their stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I'm now facing is that when I tighten the bolts on the new gasket to the specified torque I get oil leaking into the spark plug wells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried tightening the bolts a bit more and that causes all the valves to knock on the cover. I loosen them and I get the leak in the spark plug wells again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do you guys think of using some RTV to fill the gap between the spark plug well gaskets and the cover?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are the risks?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16718" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T02:35:28.450" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T17:03:11.340" Title="Oil leaking into spark plug well despite new gaskets -- is RTV a solution?" Tags="|oil-leak|mitsubishi|gasket|lancer|valve-cover|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T02:33:05.693" Score="4" ViewCount="1665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a one wire alternator on 350 Chevy V8 in a 57 Belair.  After charging the battery and running the car for about an hour the battery will run down.  Changed the alternator but no difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any clue on what is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16719" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T02:44:53.203" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T09:54:20.673" Title="one wire alternator" Tags="|chevrolet|alternator|charging|belair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28778" CreationDate="2016-04-23T02:37:51.140" Score="36" ViewCount="15232" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since fuel is made up of different molecule chains, my question is what is the reason we cannot create the same molecule structure and be able to reproduce the same structure in a lab so we don't have to run out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there's way more to this and it's not as simple as I make it seem but that's why I am asking: what are the challenges in doing something like this? Can we not make the same structure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as a side note, do fuels have oxygen molecules already inside the chain or do they not receive these molecules until the mixing of the oxygen using valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T10:51:57.677" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T14:03:01.490" Title="What is in fossil fuels that we can't mass produce?" Tags="|fuel-system|alternative-fuels|environment|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28773" CreationDate="2016-04-23T02:43:38.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm not a fan of RTV&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others that are professional and hobbyists don't agree with me but, some do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't use RTV, it's like duct tape to me.  I get a physiological reaction to the acronym.  I feel it has it's uses in very rare cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why don't I like RTV?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because if use too much it can create a bead inside of the motor and then eventually break free and clog up the oil pickup or an oil galley of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have argued, &quot;it will never get past the oil pickup and then it has to get past the filter, it's not going to happen.&quot;  Yes, I agree with that.  It won't get past a filter and probably won't get past a screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to clog a screen in an oil pickup there would have to be a lot of it in the oil system getting picked up but.....I had a boss once that would call me a junk mechanic in a super thick Korean accent all the time and if ever saw a tube of RTV in my hand he would scream it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this could be built around my own psychological damage.  Regardless, there is logic here.  It CAN clog your oil pickup screen and if it doesn't it's litter in your engine.  Basically trash floating around in there.  I'm not a fan of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that's why I won't use it.  The circumstances have to meet a criteria for me and this doesn't meet them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you flatten out the bent in valve cover bolt holes?  I haven't seen a pic but I would argue yes.  If it's a sheet metal valve cover, can't be alumunium if its bent, you can flatten out those bends carefully with a hammer and a flat surface.  That's what I would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T02:43:38.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-23T03:00:34.177" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have strung together various polymer chains in the lab and their even hydrocarbons.  The University of California Berkeley is doing it now.  It's not really a question of it being done.  It's the cost of doing it.  Right now, it's not financially feasible to be competitive in the current market.  The other methods of pulling dead dinosaurs out of the ground is just cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link where UC Berkeley used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://newscenter.lbl.gov/2011/11/29/e-coli-make-three-fuels/&quot;&gt;E. Coli bacteria to help produce a gasoline replacement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being excited about biofuels might be misplaced though.  The Nobel Prize winning chemist &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_J._Crutzen&quot;&gt;Paul Crutzen&lt;/a&gt; published finding that stated nitrous oxide emissions created during the production of biofuels made them contribute more to global warming than current fuel solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before we get all excited about lab produced fuels from biological waste we're going to have to find a better process to convert the biological matter or look elsewhere for the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, there are biofuels that are making it into the market and getting mixed in with our standard fuel. One of them, ethanol, is derived from corn.  The unintended consequence with that one is that corn growers in central and South America are selling their corn to fuel producers and have driven up the price of corn so much that people are actually starving because their carbohydrate base they rely upon as a food source is more valuable in the gas tank of a car.  So, there's that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T12:06:21.113" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T12:06:21.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-23T03:30:21.993" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil as it comes out of the ground is a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds that are the remains of deposits of algae and microscopic animals, also called phytoplankton and zooplankton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scientists have already created synthetic fossil fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The efforts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;. There is currently a $300 million dollar (actually much larger) effort in San Diego, California by a company called Synthetic Genomics and Exxon Mobil to use algae to make oil. The lipids, a form of fat, in the algae are a major component of crude oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/news/2009/jul/15/1n15algae001356-deal-blooms-algae-biofuel-research/?uniontrib&quot;&gt;http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/news/2009/jul/15/1n15algae001356-deal-blooms-algae-biofuel-research/?uniontrib&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A San Diego biotechnology company led by genomics pioneer J. Craig&#xA;  Venter has landed a deal with Exxon Mobil that could include more than&#xA;  $300 million in funding to develop biofuels from algae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Venter, best known for his role in sequencing the human genome, said&#xA;  yesterday that his company Synthetic Genomics is planning a local&#xA;  greenhouse and test facility to study thousands of strains of algae&#xA;  from around the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The eventual aim is to engineer algae that would use energy from the&#xA;  sun to convert carbon dioxide into oils and hydrocarbons in large&#xA;  quantities – a feat that would be prohibitively expensive with&#xA;  naturally occurring algae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of now the above project has failed and is back to the drawing board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.technologyreview.com/s/515041/exxon-takes-algae-fuel-back-to-the-drawing-board/&quot;&gt;https://www.technologyreview.com/s/515041/exxon-takes-algae-fuel-back-to-the-drawing-board/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those efforts don’t seem to have cracked the code for cheap algae&#xA;  fuels. In a new agreement between the companies, Exxon is sending&#xA;  Synthetic Genomics back to the lab to do more basic science. It will&#xA;  focus now on its namesake technology–synthetic genomics, a relatively&#xA;  new science that involves making large changes to genomes, even to the&#xA;  point of building whole new ones. The goal remains the same: “to&#xA;  develop strains which reproduce quickly, produce a high proportion of&#xA;  lipids and effectively withstand environmental and operational&#xA;  conditions.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;. Chevron has a joint effort with a company called Catchlight Energy to use algae as a raw material for making petroleum. Chevron has also partnered with Weyerhaueser Co, one of the worlds largest forest-products companies to begin using wood waste. Ligno-cellulose found in wood is also a component of petroleum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://investor.chevron.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=130102&amp;amp;p=irol-newsArticle&amp;amp;ID=984280&amp;amp;highlight=&quot;&gt;http://investor.chevron.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=130102&amp;amp;p=irol-newsArticle&amp;amp;ID=984280&amp;amp;highlight=&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chevron Corporation (NYSE: CVX) and Weyerhaeuser Company (NYSE: WY)&#xA;  today announced a letter of intent (LOI) to jointly assess the&#xA;  feasibility of commercializing the production of biofuels from&#xA;  cellulose-based sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The companies will focus on researching and developing technology that&#xA;  can transform wood fiber and other nonfood sources of cellulose into&#xA;  economical, clean-burning biofuels for cars and trucks. Feedstock&#xA;  options include a wide range of materials from Weyerhaeuser's existing&#xA;  forest and mill system and cellulosic crops planted on Weyerhaeuser's&#xA;  managed forest plantations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In nature, the only reason it takes millions of years for these organic materials to change to oil and natural gas is that it takes that long for it to be buried to a depth where the temperature and pressure are high enough to convert these materials to petroleum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, the time it takes to convert these from algae to oil may be less than a few hundred years, and that again is because of the slow change in temperature and pressure in a geologic setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil has been generated and found in sedimentary deposits as young as 1000 years old, so it does not require millions of years. In an industrial setting this all can be done in a matter of hours or days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Challenge&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the lab, organic material can be heated (~320C) up in an inert atmosphere with water under pressure (~150 atm) to simulate the natural processes that take millions of years but take only a matter of days in the lab. This is due to simple thermodynamics, thousands of years at 100 C or a few days at 320C give similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is used to analyse whether immature rocks, if they had been buried more deeply, could produce crude oil. So it can be used as a tool to search for oil reservoirs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not economically viable to do it on a large scale since so much energy has to be put into the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side thing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for this point,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical composition of gasoline does have oxygen in it such as ethanol blended gasoline or methanol blended gasoline but it can't behave as oxygen. So it needs oxygen from outside, namely air. When these two components are ignited it combusts and releases energy. Basic chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the reaction happening inside a cylinder during the combustion stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2C&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;18&lt;/sub&gt; + 25O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; → 16CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; + 18H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T11:11:54.950" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T11:11:54.950" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-23T03:35:09.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the wall separate like that after a blow-out, just in the time needed to stop.  My impression is that the rim sliced it as it drove flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it doesn't take a &quot;long time&quot;. Just going from freeway speed to stopping at the roadside is time and distance enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16380" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T03:35:09.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27815" CreationDate="2016-04-23T04:12:24.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order for an an alternator to function it requires a functional battery. The battery current is required to required to energize the field coil which produces the magnetic field required for the alternator to produce energy. The alternator sends 5 amp-hours at about 3000 RPM to the battery and the balance of its output goes all the other systems in the automobile. The primary function of a car battery is to start the vehicle. Once started then the alternator takes over completely. Inside the alternator there are a series of diodes which convert the AC current into rectified DC current. Sometimes these diodes fail and pass AC current into the regulator and subsequently destroying the regulator. The Battery acts like a very large capacity capacitor. If DC is applied then it stores energy. When AC is applied to a capacitor in parallel it acts like a short circuit destroying the regulator further and cooking the alternator coil winding. The also has the effect of potential seriously destroying the battery as well if left unrepaired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16722" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T04:12:24.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-23T04:27:11.297" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's in fossil fuel that we can't reproduce is energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been making synthetic fossil fuels in one form or another for about two centuries: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coal_gasification&quot;&gt;town gas&lt;/a&gt; (a methane substitute), &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bergius_process&quot;&gt;synthetic gasoline&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodiesel&quot;&gt;biodiesel&lt;/a&gt;, and so on.  With the exception of biodiesel, however, all of these take considerable energy to produce, whereas fossil fuels can simply be pumped out of the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, synthetics have only been used when natural fossil fuels were unavailable.  Town gas was used prior to the discovery of the North Sea oil fields and the development of techniques for transporting natural gas, while synthetic gasoline was used by Germany during World War II, when it didn't have access to the natural version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current efforts to make synthetic fuels are centered around using plants or algae, so that free energy from the sun can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11935" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T04:27:11.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28774" CreationDate="2016-04-23T04:36:57.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one tool you will need to purchase / borrow is a Volt Ohm Meter (sometimes called a Multimeter).  Then you need to use it to read voltage AT THE BATTERY, before the car is started and after the car is started.  My guess is you won't see any voltage difference.  Before the car is started, I would guess you'd see voltages like 12.6v or so.  After the car is started you SHOULD see 13.7v or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see no difference in voltage between car off and car running, that means the alternator isn't working to put out a charge (or its working great, but you've got a short in wiring external to the alternator somewhere.)  Don't forget that with a one wire alternator, the ground circuit is made through the alternator's mounting bosses to the engine block.  Do you have any pretty components in that chain that have powder coated paint?  Ouch.  That won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you installed the engine where did you place the engine block ground strap?    Usually its a large braided and flattened copper wire, attached to the engine block (on an unpainted boss) and to the frame of the vehicle somewhere.  If its bolted to the frame of the car, there should also be another ground strap that goes from the frame to the body.  That's pretty important, and its easily overlooked.  That provides the electrical current a return path from the alternator to the battery.  Check that ground strap carefully.  Is it secure at both ends?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another item that may come into play is the voltage regulator.  Newer cars have an internal regulator inside the alternator.  The regulator controls how much voltage the alternator puts out.  If you are putting out 18 volts DC (Direct Current) that's too much.  If you are putting out 11 volts, that's not enough.  Must cars today put out 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts. The fact that you have a one wire alternator indicates you've got an internal regulator.  You're not routing the current to an older external regulator are you?  You don't need to do that.  You can safely route the single output wire from the alternator directly to the battery positive terminal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thought.  Do you know the history of ALL the pulleys on this vehicle?  Its possible that somehow pulleys got changed around, and your pulley drive ratio is no longer appropriate to put out enough electrical voltage.  (I'm guessing you would be aware of other drive related issues, like slipping fan belts.. If that were the case you'd hear the belts making a terrible screech noise.)  Can you measure the RPM of the alternator pulley?  Tools for this include a variable strobe light setup or an optical tachometer or a temporary hall effect sensor pickup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T09:54:20.673" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T09:54:20.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-23T05:07:35.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;EZ-PZ gang! MOTH BALLS are your answer! Cheap, easy and they work.&#xA;A neighborhood cat was using my side yard as a litter box, so I sprinkled a few moth balls on the grass and voila, no more cat waste. Apparently, they just hate the smell. You could leave a few in a tupperware container and then close the container when you go to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T05:07:35.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28772" CreationDate="2016-04-23T06:04:24.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sputtering could be fuel, air, or spark.  But yes, spark sounds like a likely culprit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally fuel related items will generate a check engine light and codes. (You've not mentioned check engine light or codes, so I'm assuming there are none.  If there are Onboard Diagnostics (OBD2) codes you should get those items fixed first.)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged air filter is not all that likely, you'd have other problems besides sputtering at idle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark related items are a whole other story. My guess here is bad spark plug wires.  You will have to check each wire from the distributor / ignition system ALL the way to the sparkplugs.  Please pull the wires OFF at both ends and check that nothing is burnt or worn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One fun test is to look for spark plug wires shorting out...  You open the hood at night in a dark place, keep all the lights off.  Place the car in park, and start it up.  Then carefully inspect under the hood looking for stray sparks.  Please be careful around moving parts (fan belts, cooling fans, moving alternator.  I got my hand caught in an alternator pulley with cooling blades, at night Twack! and it wasn't a pleasant experience and visit to the emergency room.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another thing to look at is the distributor cap and rotor (Not sure if your car has this or distributorless ignition coils)  I've seen cars with loose caps lately.  The bolts were tight, but the plastic inside had cracked and the cap was loose.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I really doubt you've got spark plug issues.  Again, my guess is a bad / burnt adapter on one spark plug wire where it is attached to the top of the spark plug. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One way cool test is to remove the wiring from each spark plug, one at a time and read the tachometer.  If the engine is idling rough, and you remove one spark plug's wiring, and nothing changes, that circuit is suspect.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somebody suggested that you've got a Coil on Plug distribution system.  Way cool.  They still need to be checked between the coil and the top of the spark plug.  If memory serves correctly, Coil On Plug (COP) systems DO indeed set an engine code if the coil itself fails. The code will even tell you which cylinder is not firing.  An great test of the individual coil is to clear the codes swap the coils between different cylinders and retest again.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what you find.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T22:54:31.517" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:54:31.517" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28753" CreationDate="2016-04-23T06:19:47.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires have a warranty on them from the factory. Its quite possible the rock went thru the tire, because of a defective steel belt underneath. And the tire company would be responsible for that manufacturing defect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember the warranty on the tires is not covered by the car company, it's covered by the tire manufacturer.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normally rocks just don't go through tires like that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your tire warranty papers that come with the new car, in the glove box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd let the tire rep look at it. You want the regional service rep for that company, not a person who just works at your local tire shop.   Ask politely at your local shop, but insist on the tire being reviewed by the regional rep.   The regional rep will be a direct employee of Goodyear, Firestone or one of the other tire companies. Frankly those guys are happy to correct issues with real customers and find ways to improve their own manufacturing processes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a procedure, and that procedure is written down.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your tire warranty pamphlet. Just follow the instructions inside. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T06:25:48.823" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T06:25:48.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-23T07:50:16.093" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at more than just the sidewall, you'll notice the tread shoulder is heavily worn. This tire is well beyond 3/32 and verging on bald in most of the tread pattern. There is slight cupping that indicates habitual under inflation by 3-6 pounds. Another factor is that it looks like a lower profile tire (though hard to tell for sure from this angle), which is affected by under inflation even more.  There less sidewall support. In turn that causes more flexing and increased heat when under inflated. I bet if you were to ask the wife or the friend, how it felt while corning, they would use the word spongy as the tire slightly rolls side to side under load. They would, if checked, see lots of microcracks about 2&quot; out from the rim on the other tires. They should replace all 4 tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at some other clues. They are in the Desert SouthWest where running bald is done more often because people stupidly think that tread is only for moisture control. I'm betting they have to drive several miles to reach a filling station and that the tires are well hot at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a better understanding of the inflation, they should get a dial tire pressure gauge, spend a couple of extra bucks for the one that holds its pressure until released so they can write down the numbers. Then measure all 4 tires right around sunrise. Drive to the filling station and add extra air to each tire based on the cold pressure measured at/before sunrise. They may need to check on multiple days, based on how low the cold tires are. Also I'd be willing to put $5 on that they are slowly loosing air though the hammered sidewalls. Example: cold temp is 29, vehicle placard says 35 for that tire. that tire gets 6 lbs on top of what it reads at the station. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your other question, I don't think it was driven on long, but the tire is so hammered as a unit that once the sidewall failed it was a like a zipper ripping open all the way around the tire. You can see that by the jagged edges on the tear. There is splaying where the laminate separated but the edges are still crisp and there are thin fibers which would have been worn off if there was any appreciable distance on the rim. I bet the inside is beat up if not partially separatated as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16731" LastEditorUserId="16731" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T20:16:18.310" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:16:18.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-04-23T07:58:35.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is possible. Several companies (VAG, BMW) have switched to AC units that are driven by electric motors. For BMW, this is part of their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/united-kingdom/article/detail/T0124998EN_GB/new-automatic-climate-control-in-the-bmw-3-series-operates-using-advanced-thermal-management&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Efficient Dynamics&lt;/a&gt; strategy, where they'll switch the compressor on/off depending on engine load to optimize fuel consumption.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the weather's not too hot, you can run the compressor intermittently without the passengers noticing anything, so they run the compressor when you're slowing down and switch it off when you're accelerating. &#xA;Other companies use similar strategies, BMW is just the first I could find that offered some explanation of why they switched to electric AC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric AC has another advantage. On smaller engines, you can feel when an engine-driven compressor engages. That hiccup in the drivetrain can get annoying. An electric AC is unnoticable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the compressor while the engine is off is another matter. The compressor draws several kW. At 5 kW you'd drain a (really big) 100 Ah battery in 12 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how feasible it is to retrofit an existing AC system to electric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T09:18:12.153" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T09:18:12.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T09:52:09.277" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front door of our Jetta is stuck and cannot be unlocked. Has Anybody had a similar experience and does anyone know how can I get it unlocked please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16733" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T09:59:06.843" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T09:59:06.843" Title="Problem with locked door" Tags="|locks|door|jetta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-07-26T14:59:47.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28816" CreationDate="2016-04-23T12:10:08.450" Score="5" ViewCount="42890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 E39 BMW. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car gives a rattling noise when &lt;strong&gt;rolling&lt;/strong&gt; at low rpm with the clutch engaged in any gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise goes away if I &lt;strong&gt;add a little gas&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;depress the clutch&lt;/strong&gt; any idea what could&#xA;be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16734" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T17:10:10.113" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T13:32:48.453" Title="Car rattles at low RPM" Tags="|clutch|bmw|rattle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T13:57:34.837" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2011 Toyota tundra loses power while under load it doesn't completely shut off but does not respond when pressing gas pedel. This is an occasional thing not constant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16735" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T14:35:26.143" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T14:35:26.143" Title="2011 toyota tundras loses power under load" Tags="|engine|toyota|power|tundra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22841" CreationDate="2016-04-23T14:22:08.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only place where I'd expect such a wire is the one between the ignition lock and the starter relay (i.e. the one that tells the starter to crank).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do they expect you to splice your starter button into this lead? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T14:22:08.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-04-23T15:40:47.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is NO free lunch, you will need many batteries and a much better alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could in fact attach a window mounted air conditioner like @Spehro Pefhany suggests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TEC Thermo Electric Cooling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are peltier elements that also generate a cooling effect compressor free.  They are essentially a plate of ceramic postively charged, and one negatively charged.  This creates a heat flow where one side is incredible hot and the conversely the other side is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could mount these either inside your door, or perhaps behind the backseat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you would need to transfer the resulting heat outside of the cabin.  If you don't mind an inferno in your trunk, behind the back seat. You could attach the cold side to the back seat and put giant set of heat sink fins in the trunk, with 12v fan to keep it cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were mechanically inclined you could also use water cooling.  Install a second radiator under the hood and 12v pump and fan.  Then the heat would get exhausted that way.  &lt;strong&gt;If you don't have enough cooling you will break your peltier element.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is an example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002UQQ3Q2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Peltier-Cooler-Volt/dp/B002UQQ3Q2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger ones exist.  However, if you purchased a bunch, say 20 you could have a setup where you control how cool it gets by turning some off.  I have no idea how many you would need, but give these are 1.5 inches many would be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to attach the hot side to a large copper plate, aluminum also could work, and cool the back side.  The down side to aluminum is it can't store any heat, and having used these to cool CPU on a computer I have come to the conclusion copper is better.  On the cold side copper or aluminum would work, but make sure the 2 sides don't touch.  The peltiers are less than 4mm in many cases so you will need something thin to keep them apart, depending on the total size of your device.  Also a thermal paste will increase conductivity and heat/cold transference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will then need a large array of heat sink fins and several 12v fan to cool the back side.  Either that or a water cooling loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is all of this can be done with 12v-15v.  The bad news is even 1 peltier element requires 7 amps at 12v.  The fans and pump (if you go that way) will use very little compared to this.  You can buy 12v 120mm computer fans cheap that use very little power.  Even 10 of these is probably 90A with the pumps and fans.  Your battery will die quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In electricity, the smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need extremely thick wire to handle this many amps maybe 1 awg (gauge).  For simplicity you can connect up to 20A on 12 gauge wire so 3 of the listed peltiers.  Then you will have to connect those wire bundles to even thicker wires and so on.  Finally to a car battery, hopefully a 2nd car battery.  In fact you will need many car batteries to keep this array powered for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16739" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T15:40:47.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T15:42:12.520" Score="7" ViewCount="4735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently swapped my Kenwood stereo for a new one, also Kenwood. As the adapter was the same it was relatively easy to swap them over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything was fine for a day. However, the unit always asks to choose a language and whether to stay in demo mode. Saved radio stations remain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then took the unit out again to disconnect and reconnect to see if any issues could be resolved. But now there is no power. I have checked the cables and it looks fine. I  have also changed the relevant fuse (42) but still nothing. I tried my old stereo and that doesn't work either. I know nothing is wrong with the new stereo as I have had it checked in a shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been advised that changing round the red and yellow cables on the stereo may fix the resets but I still have the issue of no power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16737" LastEditorUserId="16737" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T15:49:27.823" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T12:43:22.137" Title="VW Golf mk4 stereo no longer has power" Tags="|vw|golf|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T19:57:19.747" Score="4" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad has an old Volvo V70 from 2001. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the blinkers (that yellow light that you turn on if you go left or right) is not working properly. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. We opened the hood and touched some wires etc etc we came to the conclusion that once we tighten the light it starts blinking and when we let go of it, it stops working. Or if we loosen the light as much as possible it starts blinking and once changed it stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering what could be the issue here and how can we fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B753o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B753o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blinker1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1R9O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1R9O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blinker2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16752" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T20:08:22.360" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:16:55.727" Title="Volvo Turn Signal Light Problem" Tags="|electrical|volvo|lights|turn-signal|v70|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-23T20:25:23.260" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are right, technically. As they say, what's in it is &lt;strong&gt;energy&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;hydrocarbons&lt;/strong&gt;, or whatever you want to call them. Burnable stuff. Unfortunately, the first two laws of thermodynamics tell us that &lt;em&gt;artificially&lt;/em&gt; putting energy into a substance would take more energy than you'd get out, so it couldn't possibly be profitable [which, as an aside, is why hydrogen fuel cells are just batteries, not power sources].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But plants put energy into things for us, from the sun, for free, &lt;em&gt;naturally&lt;/em&gt;. So people have made them into biofuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of us don't run our cars on biofuels. So that doesn't really answer the &lt;em&gt;implied&lt;/em&gt; question, does it? Which is, why are we still getting it from the ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's missing is &lt;strong&gt;volume&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hundred years ago, there was enough molasses being manufactured in one vat of one factory in Boston to create a tidal wave large enough to kill 21 people: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liIxU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/liIxU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Boston Molasses Disaster&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine how incredibly much more corn syrup there must be nowadays, now that it's in &lt;em&gt;freaking everything&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar happened at around the same time, with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/London_Beer_Flood&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;London Beer Flood&lt;/a&gt; drowning eight people, and destroying two homes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine how much more we must drink nowadays! Unimaginable amounts. Add to that beer, all the tea, soda, bottled water, milk, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine for a moment that these substances were not made almost entirely of water. That they were made only of their concentrated syrup, but in the same volume. Would it be possible to produce &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of these artificially, in that volume? No. We're at about our production limits already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with watering down, let's look at the prices. March 2016, average US prices for a gallon of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$1.96 Unleaded regular.&#xA;$2.20 Kool-Aid, Lemonade from concentrate:&#xA;$2.37 Soda (2l/$1.25 budget deal)&#xA;$3.16 Milk&#xA;$3.60 Hot Chocolate from powder (am drinking this now!)&#xA;$10.50 Homebrew beer from a kit.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these things, even watered down about 90%, even with me cherry-picking the cheapest prices I could find in a quick search, are more expensive than our fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet, gasoline production &lt;em&gt;utterly dwarfs them&lt;/em&gt;, even all added together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obligatory XKCD image:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KDvKP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KDvKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gasoline volumes are insane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[[Side note: a puddle the size of these pipes, about 1mm deep, is how much each person uses up each day on average.]]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Volume&lt;/strong&gt; is the secret sauce. Volume is why petroleum/gasoline is the only liquid other than water that gets piped around the country rather than trucked. And volume is why we cannot produce car fuel artificially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while efforts are being made, these will mostly end up being used in power stations, generators, airline fuel, and home heating, as electric cars will make the internal combustion engine obsolete in a few years anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15398" LastEditorUserId="15398" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:57:59.430" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T12:57:59.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2016-04-23T21:02:35.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had alloy wheels in extreme cold time of winter, and the ice build up causes the wheels to become unbalanced. I don't know if this is because of the type of metal the wheel is, or the light weight of alloy. I now have steel wheels for my winter tires and alloy for summer. I suspect the unbalance comes from the light weight of alloy, but maybe alloy causes water to freeze quicker, anybody know? Also, when I had the problem, it was on another vehicle I don't have anymore. I don't have any problem on current vehicle, but never ran the winter tires on alloy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16754" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T21:02:35.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T21:15:21.733" Score="7" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;This car was running fine and then one day it wouldn't start. I let it set for a couple days and then it started right up. I drove it around for about 12 miles and then parked it. When I went to start it I ran into the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the fuel regulator an that didn't fix anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone have any ideas regarding what the issue might be or a way to troubleshoot the problem?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16755" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T21:51:38.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T02:58:02.810" Title="1994 Toyota Celica - Possibly getting too much fuel and causing a flooding condition" Tags="|toyota|starting|celica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28796" CreationDate="2016-04-23T22:16:55.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly a poor connection within the bulb holder. You might be able to clean up the connections within the holder with a fine bit of sandpaper or &quot;wet and dry&quot;, then adjust them with a tiny screwdriver to improve the contact, but it's probably easier to get a new unit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:16:55.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28821" CreationDate="2016-04-23T22:29:32.967" Score="5" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my 1996 Ford Explorer when I turn the knob for my headlights (3 positions, 1 for off, 2 for parking lights, 3 for headlights) to position 2 it turns on my headlights, when I turn to position 3 it also activates the headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does position 2 engage the head lights instead of the parking lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16759" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T15:12:09.143" Title="Parking Light Switch Engages Head Lights" Tags="|ford|headlight|lights|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T22:35:00.760" Score="8" ViewCount="2963" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to start my BMW it runs rough and smells like raw gas from the exhaust pipe. My check engine light is on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had the engine replaced I am over 8,000 dollars into this car! There is about 89,000 miles on this engine. Please help! Don't know what to do, at this point I'm feeling like junking it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diane&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16757" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T10:46:47.487" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T00:28:38.050" Title="My BMW 325xi smells like gas" Tags="|engine|cel|rough-idle|gasoline|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:23:12.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a possible evaporative system issue involving the purge valves that vent fuel vapor from the gas tank. If the OBDII -on board diagnostic code that triggers the check engine light is P0440 then that is the issue. If the purge valve remains open for too long it will eventually damage the catalytic converters by sending too much unburnt fuel directly onto the catalytic elements overheating and melting them and eventually blocking the exhaust. This issue would cause rough idling, difficulty starting when hot or stalling etc. The purge valves normally vent the vapor when accelerating and would be closed normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaporative systems can be triggered by a loose or missing gas cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T01:36:40.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T01:36:40.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T01:48:22.767" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2006 Durango runs hot after a while . It's not losing much coolant. Also if the cap is off and you start it, Iit will blow back water out the opening.&#xA;I thought it may have a head gasket crack or even a cracked block. Because it had a miss. &#xA;I put some K&amp;amp;W nanotechnology head gasket and block seal. I followed the instructions except I didn't pull the plugs to check for coolant remnance. I FLUSHED the radiator with water 4 times. &#xA;(Still  running hot and I believe the water pump is pumping)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16767" LastEditorUserId="16464" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T03:56:45.427" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T16:29:32.627" Title="2006 Dodge Durango 4.7 L V-8 running hot" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T03:24:34.547" Score="4" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drove it - reached destination and started knocking - NO oil on dipstick. Put in 5 quarts of oil - ran fine until reached next destination - started knocking again - oil was present this time - drove one more time and again started knocking at destination and oil present on dipstick. Knocking does not sound while driving - just when slowing down. No warning lights came on at all. No sign of leaks or burnt oil on tail pipe - any idea what needs fixing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16769" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T14:44:42.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T14:44:42.623" Title="My 05 F150 engine knocking" Tags="|engine|ford|oil|f-150|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28805" CreationDate="2016-04-24T08:12:02.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head/ Block seal doesn't always work. It's also pretty controversial about what happens when you put it in. I've used it a few times and it only worked once. There is also no real scientific evidence that it works, it's more of &quot;Theoretically&quot; it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, don't automatically assume you have a head leak or block leak. Running hot can also cause misfires. Especially with that truck. Chrysler computers are super finicky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blowing water out of the cap, can be normal. This also could be an indication of a thermostat issue or a clogged heater core. The first and easiest thing you could do, Is grab one of those master cooling system testing kits from an auto-store. Make sure everything is sealed up and pressurize the system. See if it holds pressure. If it doesn't hold pressure, then you know you definitely have a leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've determined whether or not, you can begin further diagnosis. There is a lack of information here unfortunately, so it's a bit difficult to tell you the proper diagnostic path you should take. You can always come back and update your question so we can edit answers to properly guide you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T08:12:02.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-24T08:22:53.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are some great answers, the simplest chemistry-based answer is that it is almost impossible to efficiently form carbon-carbon bonds other than with biological systems. We can make H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; by electrolysis of water, and we can break down (crack) biological hydrocarbons or polymeric carbon (coal) to make pre-existing biofuels more useful, but as yet, photosynthesis can't be beat for moving carbon from CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; to fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16774" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T11:11:46.217" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T11:11:46.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-24T08:32:10.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once stopped to help a couple of fellow motorists who had that kind of damage to their tire. In their case they had a small object (like a screw) stuck in the tire. So it seems they had gotten a slow leak which caused the tire to depressurize until the walls of the tire gave out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim looks fine from what I can see in the picture so I find no reason to believe that someone has driven on the rim for an extended period of time after the failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my guess is small damage led to a leak that led to a rapid failure when the walls gave out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16775" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T08:32:10.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-24T09:22:21.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Petroleum from the ground is a mix of different molecules, but have in common the fact that they were created with energy from the sun. So, knowing what the molecule(s) looks like, we can assemble the ingredients in the proper lab equipment, add heat (energy) and outcomes our gasoline. However, the energy cost of doing this (because of the laws of thermodynamics) exceeds the energy contained in the product, thereby making the process a net loss of energy. That's why we do not make our own fossil fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's exactly the same reason that the &quot;hydrogen generators&quot; marketed as an add-on to automobiles years ago to improve mileage, cannot do that. The energy required from the cars electrical system, however small, always exceeds the energy produced, even smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to add insult to injury, the energy released when we combine oxygen with our petroleum results in a re-arrangement of the different elements in the molecules. One of the byproducts is carbon dioxide. We are not fond of that either even though plants will eventually, with sunlight, turn it back into a carbon based product which we can then burn again, if we choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quest for &quot;renewable&quot; energy is then a search to find some thing which will capture the sun's energy quickly (in a single day) and store it in a way that allows it to be extracted in a controlled way. We are asking for &quot;overnight&quot; oil. Photocells and turbines work well - when they work--not always when we need the energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you get the picture. We cannot make fuel - even the coveted Hydrogen - without expending more energy than we will produce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16778" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T09:22:21.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2016-04-24T10:34:36.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that you can smell fuel in the exhaust is a strong indication that the engine is running rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that there is more fuel than required by the engine. There are many things which could cause this and the sensible course of action would involve hooking the engine computer to a scan tool to retrieve data about fuel trims, and O2 sensor health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T10:34:36.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28060" CreationDate="2016-04-24T10:50:26.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been a lot of good information shared here, especially by Lawrence Wade (from my perspective).  But we're slightly left hanging about the two closely-related fundamental questions from the OP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will higher octane fuel, increase power while towing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will higher octane fuel impact the available power in common v-6 regular gas burning engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, higher octane fuel will not &lt;em&gt;increase&lt;/em&gt; power while towing, compared to &quot;regular&quot; octane levels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if we assume the engine is operating as intended, in good tune, and not overheating, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, higher octane fuel will not impact available power in a normally-aspirated engine such as your Honda V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However... &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;That's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to say that premium high-octane fuel isn't &lt;em&gt;recommended&lt;/em&gt;.  Since loss of power and possible mechanical damage may occur if the engine isn't running within spec, high octane fuel is cheap insurance to make sure that the adverse operating conditions - like a heavy towing load, and climbing mountains - don't lead to pre-ignition or detonation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers here have already established that pre-ignition and detonation are bad for your engine, and why, and the aggravating factors that can lead to those states.  (They're distinct conditions, but not mutually-exclusive ones.)  But as long as those conditions are not happening, then premium fuel will do nothing for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relates to how your other two example answers from the question about economy are not in fact opposite responses - they're both correct, with importantly nuanced differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For most vehicles, higher octane fuel &lt;strong&gt;may improve performance&lt;/strong&gt; and gas mileage and reduce carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions by a few percent during severe duty operation, such as &lt;strong&gt;towing a trailer&lt;/strong&gt; or carrying heavy loads, especially in hot weather. However, under normal driving conditions, you may get little to no benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct because the author is describing conditions that push the operating parameters of your engine toward the edges of its envelope, and a little pre-ignition may occur as you're hauling that trailer up Pike's Peak.  Having high-octane fuel will &lt;em&gt;preserve&lt;/em&gt; your power output (such as it is - high altitude will still have reduced it a lot) by preventing pre-ignition.  Thus, it may &quot;improve performance&quot; compared to regular gas &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you usually lose power and performance while using regular gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it doesn't inherently &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; energy or power over regular fuel.  And as they say, &lt;strong&gt;under normal driving conditions&lt;/strong&gt;, there's pretty much no benefit of any kind.  I take this to simultaneously imply that the engine fuel mapping and ignition (and general state of &quot;tune&quot;) is all well within normal limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One secret to lowering your overall fuel cost is to just use regular gas, unless your owner’s manual specifies a higher octane gas. Most RV's don't benefit from burning high octane fuel, and therefore you will pay at least $20 more per tank for &lt;strong&gt;no additional performance&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This statement is making no reference to marginal driving conditions, and so is implicitly assuming &quot;normal operating conditions&quot; for the vehicle, and comes to the same conclusion as the other answer: no benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while we're at it, this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;higher octane fuels actually contain slightly less energy (they just offer a more controlled burn that higher compression engines can take advantage of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...is also correct, although the energy margin is very small; less than 1%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the deep engine theory, and organic chemistry, and physical chemistry, and thermodynamics of it all is a fascinating topic, and I would gladly add to it if there seemed to be a need, in the end our result is the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Under the specified conditions, assuming a properly-running, naturally-aspirated engine system, higher-octane gasoline does not improve towing power.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you add turbocharging, overheating, dirty injectors, fouled plugs, or other conditions adverse to properly controlled ignition, then you've changed the equation, and you might need to step up the octane rating to prevent problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, there's a fair chance you'll encounter pinging/knocking conditions during your trip.  I recommend using high-octane gas as insurance during the mountain legs.  If you really prefer to stick to regular gas, take a bottle of octane booster as a backup option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My background: FAA certified Airframe and Powerplant mechanic. &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Also, I love my turbo-charged Subaru in the mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe travels!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16728" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T10:50:26.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28789" CreationDate="2016-04-24T12:01:56.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it's possibly involved with the transmission and/or clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first, I would check all the heat shielding on the car to make sure that's not a factor. When the transmission is engaged (when the clutch is not depressed) it can cause some NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) that will cause nearby heat shields to rattle and make it sound like a transmission problem. Once you've confirmed your Catalytic converter or exhaust heat shields are secured and/or not rattling, there are a few things that could be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throwout Bearing Failure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch release fork is loose/worn out/misadjusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch diaphragm springs damaged/worn/bent/loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch hub springs loose/worn/damaged/broken (I don't think the E39 has these but I wanted to cover this for other readers who may have the same question)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to isolate the sound to exactly your transmission. Loose heatshields and other motive parts can cause sounds and NVH can make it sound like it's coming from a different location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T12:01:56.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13099" CreationDate="2016-04-24T12:36:40.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power door lock circuit includes the Body Control Module, Door Lock Switches, and Door Lock Actuators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper plug has no relevance in the circuit and is used partly as the door ajar circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower plug with the tan and gray wires are for the door lock actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The door lock switches are 3 wire. Black is ground, red/black is output signal to the BCM and gray is for the switch light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BCM provides constant power on both wires to the lock actuator and will ground one wire or the other to lock or unlock the latch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on either lock actuator wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the harness where it feeds through the rubber boot into the&#xA;car body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the BCM backprobe pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 on the A connector, pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 on the B connector and pin 1 on the C connector for power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see ground on the lock actuator wires while pressing a switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the switch for ground on the black wire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for switch output on the red/black wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the BCM backprobe pin 4 on the B connector for ground while pressing a switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the BCM backprobe pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 on the A connector, pins 1 &amp;amp; 2 on the B connector and pin 1 on the C connector for ground while pressing a lock switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ground from the switch to the BCM is ok and the BCM doesn't ground the lock actuator pins replace the BCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all wiring &amp;amp; BCM output is OK replace the lock actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T12:36:40.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T13:19:17.717" Score="6" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 2003 Tibaron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU fuse blows only when driving. It can idle for hours. What runs off the ecu fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the ECU, didn't help. Checked power and grounds, no problem found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find out what the ECU fuse powers so I can isolate the circuit. Also, this problem started about 1 month after they replaced the clutch cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no codes !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16781" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T16:28:52.870" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T12:48:12.470" Title="2003 Tibaron ECU fuse blows while driving, not when idling" Tags="|electrical|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28789" CreationDate="2016-04-24T14:17:23.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The noise goes away if I add a little gas or depress the clutch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a classic symptom of a bad throwout bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T15:39:56.583" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T15:39:56.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28801" CreationDate="2016-04-24T15:12:09.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the contacts in the light switch are shorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a correctly working switch,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the off position you wouldn't have power on white/light blue or&#xA;red/yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the park lamp position it would only have power on the white/light&#xA;blue wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the Head lamp position it sends power to the red/and white/light&#xA;blue wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these are true than the switch is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also disconnect the switch connector and jump power from tan/white to white/light blue and if the headlights come on than the problem isn't in the switch but in the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T15:12:09.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28735" CreationDate="2016-04-24T16:32:53.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, So Thank you to those that tried to answer my question.&#xA;I did find the problem, I've had this car for only 1 year and&#xA;never had any issues so when this came up I was forced to look at&#xA;the systems etc, thanks to Ben's answer I didn't even know that&#xA;this car had 2 separate fuse panels one under the hood and one&#xA;hidden nicely under the front dash, under the steering wheel, behind&#xA;a wiring harness. But there it is. A simple fuse. It controls the&#xA;Gauges on the cluster but not the lights on the cluster, it is also&#xA;for the intermittent wiper timer, but not for the wipers themselves.&#xA;Whew, some intense wiring going on in this vehicle. But it appears that&#xA;Honda has a fuse for almost EVERYTHING. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROBLEM SOLVED !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16688" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T16:32:53.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13285" CreationDate="2016-04-24T16:42:28.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had issues with my Honda as well. Maybe you should try replacing all the engine management, ignition, starter switch fuses. I thought my issue was&#xA;more serious and ended up being a fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16688" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T16:42:28.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25225" CreationDate="2016-04-24T17:13:09.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3 wire CKP sensor would produce a 5v square wave. A 2 wire CKP sensor produces a AC sine wave. Even if you managed to wire the 2 wire sensor to the 3 wire harness the car wouldn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to swap the tone wheel if they're different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:13:09.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28835" CreationDate="2016-04-24T17:18:00.757" Score="3" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to install a ball mount on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee but I'm not sure how high the bottom of the ball should be from ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen different drop and rise numbers on the ball mount so i was wondering if there was some kind average or standard that would be recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16788" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T17:40:38.777" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:14:08.290" Title="Ball mount ground clearance" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2016-04-24T17:18:16.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything to do with FUEL, especially if the smell is strong should be dealt with immediately. I would suggest to just bring the car to the dealership and let them run a diagnostic on the car. Then you will know for sure if the problem is a easy fix or something worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16688" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:18:16.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28832" CreationDate="2016-04-24T18:13:19.730" Score="5" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to crack one of the carbon fibre fork protectors on my motorbike. From the damage it looks like this was due to an impact with a solid object. Below are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrfIdl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrfIdl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracked carbon 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Snq0Ul.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Snq0Ul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracked carbon 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that the carbon parts are hanging next to the crack. This makes me think that I might be able to glue everything back together. Can this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going for aesthetics here. I need a quick robust fix before my next trackday. For completeness sake note that this OEM part costs the best part of 130EUR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T09:50:58.693" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:50:58.693" Title="How can I repair cracked/broken non-structural carbon fibre parts?" Tags="|motorcycle|repair|forks|carbon-fiber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-24T18:22:42.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything in fossil fuels currently in use can be mass produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would simply cost more than pumping it out of the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fossil fuels are merely a cheap, but inefficient, way to store energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the world had cheap, efficient sources of energy, it would not likely waste any effort on &lt;em&gt;storing&lt;/em&gt; that energy as petrochemicals. We'd have directly electrically powered vehicles, or something more efficient like hydrogen fuel cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the end, the answer to your question is.. Money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16791" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T18:22:42.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:11:50.197" Score="2" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can bad gas or clogged air filter cause loss of power on take off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was running fine then I fueled up and checked air filter immediately after it lost power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16793" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T19:42:35.447" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:41:45.750" Title="1998 Ford Explorer loss of power on take off" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:46:37.240" Score="5" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Monster S4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel level sensor hasn't worked since I bought the bike. This is mostly an inconvenience, but as there is no reserve facility it means I need to keep a close eye on my mileage or risk running out of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I've had issues with the indicators not working while the bike is in motion. On testing when stationary all lights and switches seem functional, but later when riding the indicators failed to work. It was daytime so I'm not sure what else was/was not working. Testing later on the driveway the indicators did not work, but on turning it off and on again, they worked fine. I rode it again a few days later and the same thing happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I start for troubleshooting this intermittent electrical fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is replacing the fuel sensor something I can do at home or will I need workshop facilities? I have a fairly comprehensive set of hand tools, but limited power tools and no welding or other specialist tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16215" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T19:53:27.293" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:29:57.050" Title="Ducati Monster S4 electrical problems" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|ducati|monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28828" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:48:11.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=fiberglass%20cloth&amp;amp;bih=568&amp;amp;biw=1097&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiJ7cnRhajMAhVO3mMKHZXfANIQ_AUIBSgA&amp;amp;dpr=1.75#q=fiberglass%20cloth%20and%20resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fiber glass cloth and fiber glass resin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will hold everything together nicely.  It won't separate from the part later if you clean all of the surfaces enthusiastically.  It's easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=rubber%20disposable%20mechanics%20gloves&amp;amp;oq=rubber%20disposable%20mechanics%20gloves&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0.8423j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disposable gloves&lt;/a&gt; to use while you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the bits in pieces in place properly you can line the inside with some fiber glass cloth that has been completely immersed in fiber glass resin.  Push it up into the inside portion of the cracked carbon fiber component.  You can also wipe some of the resin into the outside crack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically dry my parts in an oven I have in the garage.  Don't do it in your house, the vapors that come off the resin as it dries are harmful.  The heat accelerates the hardening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the resin is dry and hard you can sand it down and buff it up a bit to make it look a little better.  Since it's a track bike it might not matter or be worth the time since it might get broken again soon anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this many, many times on CF parts for play bikes.  It's strong, easy, simple, fast (once you've done it a couple of times) and CHEAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T19:48:11.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-24T21:11:55.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that we use petrochemicals (carbon compounds extracted or released from the ground) for two distinctly different purposes: fuel and raw material for manufacture of all sorts of things. To remove our dependence on petrochemicals, we would have to address both uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace petrochemicals as an energy source, in some cases it would be better to find other ways to store and release energy - batteries recharged by wind turbines or solar arrays, for example. But most fossil fuel alternatives have issues with convenience, capacity (specific energy by weight or volume), power density (again by weight or volume), safety of handling/storage (think hydrogen), &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NIMBY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NIMBY&lt;/a&gt; (think wind farms), etc.. It's just so easy to fill a tank with gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, etc., fire up an engine and go.. not to mention relatively light weight and compact. So maybe for some applications like aircraft, it may be more feasible to continue powering them in the current manner (accepting all the drawbacks), but consider alternative sources than petroleum - hence biofuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace petrochemicals as a manufacturing raw material, you'd have to consider all the things our modern world derives from them. Plastics, solvents, dyes, lubricants, adhesives, and so on. All of the interesting molecules extracted from crude oil (and it can be a long list) would have to be produced by some other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, these petrochemical equivalents would each have to be produced on a vast scale. We as a global community burn a lot of fuel just getting around, and we make all sorts of things (also on a vast scale) from petroleum. It comes down to three big things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Figure out how to make our substitute (say, octane or some other hydrocarbon) by chemical and/or biological processes from something we didn't extract from the ground (e.g. carbon dioxide and water). There is ongoing research into this with interesting results emerging all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scale up the processes to a level which meets the demand. For one thing, it will take massive investment; who will put up the money? For another: if you're going to put carbon dioxide and water into a process and get hydrocarbons out, you're going to have to add energy, which has to come from somewhere. This may be a major sticking point for synthesizing petrochemical equivalents on any worthwhile scale. Do we build vast solar/wind farms? What will that do to the global landscape? Do we build more nuclear?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make it economically viable. People may be persuaded to pay a small premium for a non-petro-sourced fuel or consumer product, but there will be a limit. Can a non-petro process even come close to the economics of today's wells and refineries?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:11:55.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28826" CreationDate="2016-04-24T21:14:08.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The height from the ground to the bottom of the ball will be determined by the trailer you're pulling, not the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height of the trailer is such that the trailers hitch is horizontal with the ground, while the hitch receiver on all vehicles is attached to two points on the frame of the car, so the receiver height is fixed for the car - e.g my Subaru Forester has a lower hitch receiver height than a friends F150 by about 6 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in height is accommodated by the ball mount, which positions the ball such that you're pulling in a straight line horizontally through the trailer; you don't want a large upwards or downwards angle, as it will make reversing a lot harder. You can commonly get a drop of between 3/4&quot; and 8&quot; (and they are usually reversible, to get a rise); there are calculators on the internet if you want to work it out by math. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're doing a lot of towing of disparate trailers, you'll find that one ball mount and a couple of balls will be all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T21:14:08.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T21:52:41.470" Score="3" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this point I am positive it has something to do with the exhaust system but I am hoping to narrow down whether its a bad sensor or a gasket issue. I will replace them all but kind of enjoying the testing to get a pinpoint answer, that is the reason I am posting here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have so far: codes p0300 and p0304 and a knock when first starting the car that goes away at higher rpms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will lose power very briefly while keeping gas steady and driving around 45mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has almost no power on steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The will perform and accelerate quite well if I more pump the gas pedal instead of just give it steady gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most likely culprit or can anybody recommend some other tests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16800" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T15:58:42.573" Title="Car loses power while driving very briefly and on hills?" Tags="|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T23:05:44.747" Score="3" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light came on very recently with two error codes being thrown. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p0507_honda.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this source&lt;/a&gt;, the following will cause 0507&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0507 HONDA - Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A vacuum leak &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking air intake after the throttle body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR valve leaking vacuum &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed EVAP system &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p0011_honda.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This source&lt;/a&gt; says the following will cause 0011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0011 HONDA - Variable Control Timing System Malfunction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty Oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low engine oil level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve Timing Control (VTC) open or shorted circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve Timing Control (VTC) electrical connector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty Valve Timing Control (VTC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged ECM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to further identify the source of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16802" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T23:48:02.740" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:02:33.713" Title="My 2005 Honda Accord with OBD codes: 0507 and 0011. Howto Troubleshoot" Tags="|honda|troubleshooting|obd-ii|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T23:12:31.550" Score="4" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought the car a few days ago, now I'm noticing something that I'm betting may have been done on purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My power locks do not work at all, have to manually lock each door. Not the worst thing but annoying. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half my dash warning lights do not light upon engine start-up, which has my wondering if this was intentional as the engine light is one of them that isn't lighting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My cruise does not work at all - no light on the button, does not engage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oddly my interior light does not shut off even though all doors are closed- but again my gate light is not illuminating on the dash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My fog lights and my wiper de-icer both work, which are the two switches next to the cruise button on the dash. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked and replaced fuses. It appears all connections out of the fuse box are connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if someone disabled the CEL on purpose somehow to sell it, but I have no idea what to look for to confirm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any suggestions regarding how I can confirm my suspicions or not regarding the issues I've described?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16804" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T09:02:25.627" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:53:07.453" Title="2002 Subaru Forester S - Multiple Non-functional Electrical Components" Tags="|electrical|subaru|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28837" CreationDate="2016-04-25T00:36:10.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The two faults may or may not be related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the idle speed code:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Clean the throttle valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Relearn the idle speed. To do this remove both battery cables and connect them together for 10 minutes. While they are apart take the opportunity to clean off any the acid. After 10 minutes connect them back together, start then engine and let it run at idle for at least time minutes with no loads such as lights or A/C. &#xA;Clear the fault codes, drive the car to see if it returns. This idle speed should stay near 700 rpm when then the engine is warmed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If this does not work have it checked to see if Honda TSB # 06-040 applies. This TSB suggests a computer software update may be needed for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the P0011 code&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the engine oil; if dirty change it, if just low fill it. Low engine oil can cuase this code. Repair any oil leaks.  Note a poor oil change history could cause timing chain wear which can also cause this code.&#xA;The idle control problem above can cause this code so as long as the oil level is good fix the idle problem first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T03:02:33.713" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:02:33.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:09:13.687" Score="9" ViewCount="1371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left the pedicure salon, started my car and drove less than 3 miles to pick up something from the store, when I stepped out of my car my feet were black... and I don't meant just from dirt, It looked like someone dumped a bucket of black paint on me from shins down. I had my AC blowing on my feet but I didn't recognize and smells that were different than before. My neighbor said it Looks like I stood behind and exhaust pipe. My car is a 2011 Scion TC and about 65,000 miles. Any ideas of what it may be? I recently got my air filter changed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNYr8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNYr8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16807" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T05:51:36.927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T08:57:44.810" Title="My feet turn black" Tags="|engine|maintenance|ac|exhaust|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28799" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:58:02.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of flooding on start in this era Toyota is a failure of the coolant temperature sensor. When it fails the ECM thinks the engine is -40 deg F. The ECM therefore adds much extra fuel to help with this false arctic weather start. The warmer the actual temperature the harder it is to get it started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test for this check the voltage on the sensor of the light green wire. About .5 volts is normal for a fully warm engine. Failed will read over 4 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T02:58:02.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2016-04-25T04:37:22.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BCM (Body Control Module) is the electronic control unit that monitors and controls all of the systems in the car body. Electric windows,A/C functions, electric mirrors,electric locks,security systems, etc. It communicates with all the other modules via the cars vehicle bus. It drives all the relays the control all the nice gadgets. As with all the vehicular modules it generates fault codes for problem diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T04:37:22.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T05:08:05.687" Score="5" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car&lt;/strong&gt;: Audi S5 2008 V8 4.2L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transmission:&lt;/strong&gt; Manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt; There is a quiet (but noticable) ticking noise which can be heard from inside the cabin when the car starts. It starts of slow (maybe 10 clicks/sec) and starts getting faster and faster (maybe 100 clicks / sec) and remains. It's sort of like a positive feedback loop. When I blip the throttle and let it idle again (to around 2k - 3k rpm), the clicking speed resets itself, and starts slow and speeds up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not the direct injection solenoid valves&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise cannot be heard above idle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise can only be heard from inside the cabin (too loud outside)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The noise remains after the car has warmed up&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16810" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T12:48:50.253" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T15:49:07.337" Title="Ticking noise which gets faster at idle and slows after blipping" Tags="|engine|noise|audi|s5|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28836" CreationDate="2016-04-25T07:37:58.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD II P0300- Random, Multiple Misfire Detected (Generic Code)&#xA;    Causes:&lt;strong&gt;Worn out&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;spark plugs, ignition wires, coi&lt;/strong&gt;l(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable)&#xA;Incorrect ignition timing&#xA;Vacuum leak(s)&#xA;Low or weak fuel pressure&#xA;Improperly functioning EGR system&#xA;Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor&#xA;Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor&#xA;Defective Throttle Position Sensor&#xA;Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0304 Cylinder #4 Misfire Detected (4th digit indicates cylinder)&#xA;   &lt;strong&gt;Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack)&lt;/strong&gt; Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue involves cylinder # 4(the one nearest the firewall. It could be something as silly as a cracked spark plug causing loss of compression and poor spark. Try with plug first, then spark wires if applicable to your vehicle . The newer vehicles are distributor less and have individual coils for each cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms:the engine may be harder to start the engine may stumble and/or hesitate other symptoms may also be present.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would as a rule explore the cheapest options first. Spark plugs and wires are inexpensive. &#xA;   Ignition timing, EGR,MAF and those other sensors would affect all the cylinders and generate more codes. Defective Cats or computer would not allow the vehicle to start in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T15:58:42.573" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T15:58:42.573" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28838" CreationDate="2016-04-25T08:17:11.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were these faults visible when you test-drove the car? If not, check the consumer rights in your jurisdiction, you may well be entitled to a refund if the car was not fit for purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T08:17:11.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28841" CreationDate="2016-04-25T08:57:44.810" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cabin filters on modern cars use something called activated carbon (or at least some of them do) which is basically two paper / cotton sheets either side of a fine layer of carbon particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as though your cabin filter has a hole in it and therefore is blowing carbon all over the inside of the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd take it back to wherever installed the new filtration and have them change it out under warranty as it looks as though it's been faulty when they've installed it and they've not noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be tempted, once it's been changed, to vacuum the carpets in your footwells as they're probably thick with this fine black dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T08:57:44.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2016-04-25T09:34:11.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually bought the car. After a bit of searching it turned out the issue was caused  by wrong choke plate setting - the bimetallic spring tension was to low and sometimes the choke was kept open too much when cold and sometimes it didn't fully open after warming up. Simply turning the autochoke mechanism by a couple of degrees solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:34:11.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28855" CreationDate="2016-04-25T09:38:25.023" Score="6" ViewCount="5091" Body="&lt;p&gt;As user  Steve Matthews pointed out on my last question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28646/car-interior-rattles-on-idle&quot;&gt;Car interior rattles on idle&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The ideal use of a coke is &quot;Use the choke until the car warms up properly. You can reduce the amount of choke gradually until it's fully off and keep the car running smooth.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this brings up further questions that after an hour of searching I found no info on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the optimal use of a choke? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the cons of using it incorrecly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What consecuences does wrong use of choke have on the long run?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important is it to gradually ease off the choke as the car&#xA;starts warming up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important is it to not push the engine too far while choke is engaged?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference the car is a 1985 Citroen BX, the choke is manual (maybe autochokes weren't popular in Spain) and the engine is a carb. Sorry I don't have a pic at hand but I'll definetly add one once I'm home!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:08:19.593" Title="Basic operation of a choke valve" Tags="|engine|carburetor|choke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28838" CreationDate="2016-04-25T09:46:59.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be just about anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To start with, I'd get way organized.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I recommend strongly you purchase a paper copy of the service manual (Either Haynes or Chilton.  They cost $30 new at your local autoparts store.)  Inside they have a few pages in the back of the wiring diagrams for your car.  These manuals are awesome for teaching you how your car works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a photocopy made of each wiring diagram page.  (You will be writing on these, and we don't want to mess up your new manual.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start a list on a separate piece of paper. Carefully write down each and everything electrical that is wrong with the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note: when you first start up the car each and every light bulb in the cluster should light up.  This it to tell you if a bulb is burnt out.  Do this a few times to ensure that each and every indicator in there lights up.  If an indicator stays dark, then add that detail to your list of electrical problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want you to get the engine codes stored in the Engine Computer.  Not sure where you live, but in many places your local autoparts stores will read the codes from your On Board Diagnostics (OBD) port for you for free. Note: this is not true in California.  If you want to purchase a code reader they will run from around $30 and up.  If there are codes listed, then there should be a check engine light.  If there are no codes found, the check engine light should be off.  Note: In many cars of your vintage, the manufacturers include a method for reading the codes using either no tools or a simple Volt Ohm Meter (Multimeter)  It may be a series of special button pushes or whatever, and then you read a flashing light code.  The details of this are included in the service manual you just bought.  I'm not positive for your vehicle, but generally all manufacturers do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next step is to look at your list of issues, and match it up to the wiring diagram.  Take a red pencil and draw a line on top of all wires that feed the things that aren't working correctly.  You are going to generate a colored fault inspection map.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What I'm hoping is that all those red lines will cross at the same place.  If I had to guess that would be a junction box located under the dash panel on the drivers side of the car.  Its very possible that box is generating the errors.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other things that can cause a bunch of electrical faults include loose grounding wires.  Generally you will be able to see that from the wiring diagram with red lines on it.  Loose grounds are easy to fix, once you find them.  I'd guess there are probably 10-12 ground points through out the car.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you checked the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) history on this car?  Did it come from a location that recently has seen heavy flooding?  Water can do lots of crazy things to electrical systems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its also possible that a wiring harness has become frayed and cut somewhere.  A wire can hit a moving fan, abraid against a sharp edge of metal, or get cut by repeated motion of the brake pedal under the instrument panel (if the wires aren't routed correctly.)  Wires can also get burnt if too near to the hot engine exhaust system.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One thing I really, really doubt someone disconnected the Check Engine light.   I've worked a whole lot on clusters of your vintage car and frankly it's WAY easier to fix the defect on the car than it is to remove the cluster, isolate the correct light and disconnect it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it.. and let us know what the red line wiring diagram looks like.  Also let us know if there are any codes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T09:53:07.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T09:53:07.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28503" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:09:18.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have similar problem as yours. My solution is : put several dolls (animal shaped, e.g. dog, should be scary enough) on the car's area where they usually come and sit (on my case, it's on the front part, above the machine's cap, I'm not sure what it's called in English).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far it's effective to keep the cats away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. the drawback is, my neighbor usually laugh when passing and seeing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16815" LastEditorUserId="16815" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T10:16:53.607" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T10:16:53.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:17:49.360" Score="4" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I was watching a video of a guy changing brake pads, and the first thing he suggested was opening the brake fluid container to remove some fluid with a syringe. This is to avoid spillover when one pushes the pistons back in place, provided one topped-up the oil as pads were wearing down. This got me wondering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always used the brake fluid level as a first-inspection indicator of the wear of my brake pads. As the level drops I take a closer look at the pads to see how much &quot;meat&quot; is left on them. For this reason I rarely top-up the brake fluid. I always assumed that given a new disk and new pads, filling up the container to the required level ensures that there is the enough fluid for correct operation of the brakes. As the fluid goes down, the brake lever gains a bit of play, which I usually counteract by using the appropriate lever regulation system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this bad practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T11:35:27.457" Title="Does brake fluid require topping-up as brake pads wear out?" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|brake-fluid|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28853" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:42:04.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Er, not so much.  I'm assuming we're talking Motorcycle here, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if there is a slight leak in the brake lines somewhere?  You'd be losing fluid and that would NOT be a good indicator of brake pad wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different vehicles have different size brake actuators, with accompanying different volumes of fluid to account for as the brake pads wear down over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would certainly be possible to have to add brake fluid to a master cylinder to accommodate brake pad wear, while there is still a whole lot of brake pad life remaining.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You really don't want to let the fluid in the reservoir run low. That would introduce an air bubble into the system, and that's just bad. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;A bit of play&quot; er... no.  A bit of play indicates worn master cylinder or worn wheel cylinders that don't operate at full potential (or you've got an air bubble in the line).   Your brakes should operate with the same throw when new as when the brake pads are worn 50% (although in reality, my bike is the same way... I'm just too lazy to rebuild all the cylinders in the system.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you replace brake pads with new pads, you've got slight wear in the system, you will continue to see &quot;a bit of play&quot;. The way to get rid of the play is to rebuild the cylinders and bleed all the air out of the system.  Note: I can see a degradation in my brake system, as observed as extra lever travel, after 10K miles or so.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know that? I've got two identical bikes... mine has lots more miles than the wife's...  Her brakes are awesome, mine, not so much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will say, I don't really understand why the master cylinder and wheel cylinders on the motorcycle wear out so quickly. Insert break here... I just ran out to the garage with a magnet.  Both the master cylinders and the wheel cylinders on my bikes are made of cast aluminum, not steel.  Well no wonder they wear faster.  Duh. The same parts on my car are made from  steel or cast iron. Ouch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T11:35:27.457" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T11:35:27.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28850" CreationDate="2016-04-25T10:55:05.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should avoid over-use of the choke if possible, as over-fuelling the engine will cause more carbon build up, shortening the life of the plugs and reducing the time before the engine needs a &quot;decoke&quot; to get rid of the build-up. Plus it wastes fuel! Of course, too little is just as bad...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always gone for the following, though I don't know if it's optimal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the choke out fully&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately push the choke in until the engine just starts to struggle, then pull it back out a little bit so the engine is happy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start driving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradually push it in, a bit at a time, over the next few minutes - the time needed will depend on the ambient temperature, and how quickly your engine warms up. From a warn start you might be able to push it fully in straight away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be running with just enough choke that the engine is running smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't push the engine too far until it's fully warmed up, regardless of whether you're using the choke or not. If you do a lot of short journeys, make sure to regularly take it for a long journey to get it properly warmed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T10:55:05.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28773" CreationDate="2016-04-25T11:43:31.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, there are 2 types of valve cover gaskets - rubber and cork.  RTV should not be used with rubber gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cork ones, I will sometimes cover the gasket in RTV.  Put the gasket on a box, put some RTV on your finger and wipe a thin layer on each side.  This will allow it to bond to the cylinder head and valve cover, but will not be thick enough to squeeze out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, it sounds like the root of the problem is the valve cover.  If you can, the cheapest solution would be to get one from a junkyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T11:43:31.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28861" CreationDate="2016-04-25T12:00:44.607" Score="10" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought wire wheels was a British thing but recently I saw a very neat looking Classic Ferrari with wire wheels. Was this odd for an Italian car? Did they come stock with these or was it just an after market fitting some owners did?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16823" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T12:31:11.720" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:10:33.843" Title="What type of Ferrari's came with wire wheels?" Tags="|wheels|ferrari|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T12:11:41.417" Score="5" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst driving, when I take my foot off the accelerator in 5th gear, the stick/vehicle goes into neutral. It's doing this more and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16824" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:27:19.327" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:27:19.327" Title="5th Gear slipping out when letting off gas pedal in Toyota Landcruiser HJ75 - 1990)" Tags="|toyota|manual-transmission|land-cruiser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28859" CreationDate="2016-04-25T12:33:41.470" Score="8" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Ferrari and Borrani&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borrani&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Borrani Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Between 1946 and 1966, all Ferrari cars were equipped with Borrani wheels as original equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for Ferrari cars built during these years should be a good starting point to answer your question. Moreover, Borrani also supplied wire wheels to Lamborghini, Maserati and Alfa Rome, hence hinting at the fact that wire wheels were indeed a common feature of Italian cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Which Ferrari's Have Wire Wheels?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of Ferrari coming with wire wheels is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_250_GTO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ferrari 250 GTO&lt;/a&gt; which came with Borrani wire wheels OEM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7HXnw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7HXnw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FErrari 250 GTO&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy of Wikipedia&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T14:10:33.843" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:10:33.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28830" CreationDate="2016-04-25T12:38:45.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say with the information given. Could be a lot of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• codes, even if the CEL isn't on there might be something stored.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• sensors - MAF, MAP, o2 would be most likely to cause these issues. Should be able to read with a multimeter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• air filter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• spark plugs (clean, gapped correctly), wires, cap, rotor, coil&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• vacuum lines (check engine vacuum)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• Idle motor - stuck open can be similar to a vacuum leak&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• fuel filter, fuel pump (check fuel pressure)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• Clogged EGR valve&lt;br&gt;&#xA;• Plugged cat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were really low on gas, you might has stirred up water or sediment in the bottom of the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you say you checked the air filter, make sure you didn't knock something loose and the air filter hoses are installed nice and tight.  Air getting past the MAF would cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T12:38:45.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28818" CreationDate="2016-04-25T12:48:12.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to do a wiggle test. The clutch cables on that particular car is a real pain, and for someone who hasn't done it before, it's really easy to screw up wiring. My friend is a Hyundai Master Tech and hates working on them because of routing and space. It's sounding like a short somewhere, but you need to determine where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a new fuse, put it in. Start the car and find any and all harnesses you can near the vicinity of the fusebox and under the dash. It comes in under the brake master cylinder, and travels all the way to the ECU on the right passenger side. Gently wiggle on the harness until you can blow the fuse or get the ECU to stop working. There are much more expensive ways to do this professionally, but the tools are pretty expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link if you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000P6UO2I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-ECT2000-Circuit-Detector/dp/B000P6UO2I&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's never failed me and cheaper now. I paid $500 for mine. That's a steal for something like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T12:48:12.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28831" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:14:25.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to be an easy job.  Check out panel #18 and parts list for panel #18.  You are going to want to see if part #5, (PN: 592.1.010.1A) Low Fuel Sensor is available before you start the job.  I found the &lt;a href=&quot;https://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/s4_usa-02?e=1222863/10927571&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parts manual here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to have to drain the tank completely first.  Note: its not clear on if your sender is broken, has a cut wire or is simply not connected.  If it were me, I'd talk to your parts guys, understand their return policy.  Best deal is to ensure the part is in a sealed package, and then return it with seal NOT broken, if that works for them.  If the part is cheap enough, just replace it.  You should get a new gasket / seal as well as the sending unit.  (PN: 789.1.001.1A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like only simple tools are necessary for this repair.  I would guess an open end wrench for the sender, and whatever tools are required to remove the fuel tank from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holy Cow Batman... I just did a quick search online to check out the price of that sending unit.  Ouch.  Big Ouch. (&gt;$200)  At that price I'd definitely remove the existing sender and see EXACTLY what's wrong with it, before ordering the replacement part. I'm pretty sure the sender is a float with a magnet in it and a hall effect sensor, but it could also be a variable resistor device with sliding fingers on the contacts.  Sliding fingers on resistive elements definitely go bad with time.  The float goes up and down inside a tube (unless its water logged or broken inside)  If that's the case you must replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also possible that you can use a volt ohm meter to verify the electrical functioning of the sender (given that you have a detailed service manual that provides the specifications.)  I'm going to let you chase that one down.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it, its a nice bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T13:29:57.050" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:29:57.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28869" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:20:16.530" Score="6" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a tried and tested method for refinishing suspension springs.  The springs I have at the moment have shed their protective coating which I assume was some sort of powder coating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a finish I can apply that will be durable enough but also flexible enough as I know the springs constantly expand and contract whilst driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd considered straight auto body paint, a plasticoat style plastic based paint, threading &quot;heat shrink&quot; over the length of the spring and heating it to the required temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if anyone had actually refinished their springs and what level of finish and longevity they've had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T15:47:20.610" Title="Suggestions for refinishing suspension springs" Tags="|suspension|paint|underbody|chassis-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12981" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:20:53.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have personally used brake parts cleaner. It shouldn't harm dried clear coat factory paint. Any other paint will be annihilated, though. Alternatives are acetone, paint thinner, gasoline. I'd use extra care with those 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(some other people with personal experience using these)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/off-topic/2132418-will-carb-cleaner-or-brake-cleaner-hurt-paint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/off-topic/2132418-will-carb-cleaner-or-brake-cleaner-hurt-paint.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/1dbx41/lpt_removing_spraypaint_from_your_car_applied_and/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/1dbx41/lpt_removing_spraypaint_from_your_car_applied_and/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16827" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:20:53.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12981" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:31:46.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with a light application of T-Cut or cutting paste.  Be very careful just to take the new paint off.  It should make fairly light work of new spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:31:46.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28866" CreationDate="2016-04-25T14:23:48.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very best solution is to powder-coat them - but you need to get them to a paint-ready condition before you take them to the powder-coating company; otherwise, it could cost quite a bit. Harbor Freight sell powder-coating kits, but I've never tried them, and if this is a one-off job, sending it to a company will be the most cost-effective solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is caliper paint. You won't need to work as hard to clean the springs as you would for powder-coating, but the better the surface preparation, the better the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:23:48.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28866" CreationDate="2016-04-25T15:47:20.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aerospace landing gear applications usually require springs to be coated in Duralon (name brand), which is a Nylon compound that is applied much like a powder coat. It is used for its flexibility, impact and corrosion resistance, and it provides a smooth, clean finish so damage and defects are easier to visibly identify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T15:47:20.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28878" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:00:24.697" Score="9" ViewCount="3759" Body="&lt;p&gt;My timing belt broke on a 2008 Hyundai Accent and due to being broke I decided to try and fix it myself. I managed to get everything off, two slightly bent valves on the head which I took to a shop etc. While trying to prep the engine block for a new gasket I had to turn the crankshaft bolt. It would move about 30 degrees in either direction and then felt like an elastic was pulling it back. I was only using a short ratchet without a breaker bar or anything but it finally released and now spins freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized afterwards though the car had been put into 1st gear prior to this. The crank now turns freely whether in neutral or first gear. Is this normal or did I damage something in the clutch/gears trying to turn it over in gear? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*yes, I know very very little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*all belts were disconnected during this, head was off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16830" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T17:28:13.503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T17:34:12.693" Title="Hand turned the crankshaft while in gear. Clutch damage?" Tags="|clutch|hyundai|timing-belt|cylinder-head|crankshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:12:30.663" Score="4" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a seat cover that was installed by someone who didn't do a very good job. The result is what we have in the picture below. Is there any way of fixing the wrinkle without removing the whole thing and reinstalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, would heating with a hair dryer/hot towel work because that seems to work on small wrinkles as shown here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXEL4qqzuUo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXEL4qqzuUo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeyzE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeyzE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastEditorUserId="13798" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T16:22:44.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T16:22:44.280" Title="Wrinkled seat cover. Solution?" Tags="|seat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28875" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:20:05.213" Score="10" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a sand blasted cab and bed I am looking for a solution to protect the metal body of a C10 hot rod on air ride.  I have looked into possibly rhino lining the under side of the bed and cab but I wanted to know if there is another solution since I am not a paint and body expert.  I would prefer a paintable solution but since the stance is low I do not mind leaving it alone as long as it's black to match the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:32:26.477" Title="What can be used to protect the under-carriage of a hot rod?" Tags="|chevrolet|body|body-work|hotrod|c10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28874" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:26:46.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use epoxy primer to start. You can then spray paintable undercoat on your frame, underbody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in various forms as depicted in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEer3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jEer3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also use a rocker guard type product as shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my personal taste, I would seal with epoxy primer, rubberized undercoat, and then oil undercoating to protect even further. Application is very straight forward if you are working with clean metal. If not, make sure you are not applying the products over unprepared surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWF8s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWF8s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil undercoating is the process of spraying oil on your vehicles underbelly to aid in rust prevention. Most vehicles will have plugs in their doors which can be removed so they can be blasted as well. For optimal results in climates like Canada, you can do this at least once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7FJyH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7FJyH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCxls.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCxls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T23:32:26.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:32:26.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:41:46.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds a bit like alternator whine. A noise suppression filter capacitor may be bad. A unfiltered alternator would send pulsating DC ripple into the radio creating a whine that varies in frequency. It is usually located on the back of the alternator(or at least it used to be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternators generate AC (Alternating Current) which is then converted into pulsating DC(Direct Current). This then has to be filtered in order to become pure DC. This capacitor shorts out any residual AC and passes pure DC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T08:12:32.727" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T08:12:32.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T17:03:06.700" Score="6" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced all four corners pads and rotors with the Power Stop Economy kit off Rock Auto and I'm having horrible shaking while braking at highway speeds. All slide pins have been re-greased and appear to have been in good order. On a hunch I replaced the front slide pin boots and it's still shaking. I'm contemplating re-jacking the car and replacing the slide pin boots on the rears, but I'm just not sure that the issue is the slide pins. Any idea on further troubleshooting before I just drop it off at the local mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12806" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:17:29.940" Title="2010 Toyota Matrix - Brake Shake Highway Speeds" Tags="|toyota|brakes|matrix|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28872" CreationDate="2016-04-25T17:34:12.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's fine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a similar job on a 2003 model recently.  I kid car.  Luckily, I didn't have any bent valves to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the engine over with the head off and the car in gear won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the exact feeling of elasticity you are talking about if you have the car in gear.  I am assuming you had the front wheels on the ground when you did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't damage anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T17:34:12.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12011" CreationDate="2016-04-25T17:47:52.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be the Body Control Module.. Erica drove the vehicle home- logically then engine and transmission are ok. The BCM controls the operation of the power windows as well the security system and I would hazard a guess the functions of the instrument cluster as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T17:47:52.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-25T18:20:38.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking the &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; question to be 'Why don't we make fuel from scratch instead of pumping it out of the ground?', I'd have to say the core issue is energy - more specifically, &lt;em&gt;conservation of energy&lt;/em&gt;.  Fuels are NOT energy sources - they are energy storage mechanisms (like batteries).  Whatever energy one gets out of fuel combustion, one must first gather to create the fuel in the first place.  It is a zero-sum game.  What makes fossil fuels different is that Nature spent &lt;em&gt;hundreds of millions of years&lt;/em&gt; collecting solar energy into organic storage (i.e plants) and sequestering it in the ground for us to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now we're consuming that resource &lt;em&gt;a million times faster&lt;/em&gt; than it took to accumulate.  We're living on borrowed time, people!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16835" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T18:20:38.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T19:10:50.823" Score="2" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a problem with a Ford Focus MK2 and looking for advice as I don't want to run into mad costs, here's a quick introduction on what happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery went flat - as radio and lights were turn on for too long without engine turned on. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Car was jump started - it gained electric power back again, however it didn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On ignition the lights on dashboard light up and it says 'Engine systems fault' and there's no error codes on OBD reader. Immobilizer is also rapidly flashing in red, then it starts giving a PATS code.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a note on ignition something in the engine makes noise - but it doesn't sound like any mechanical component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any next steps I can take to solve the problem myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward hearing from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&#xA;Adam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16257" LastEditorUserId="16257" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T20:51:47.993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:51:47.993" Title="Ford Focus 1.4 ZETEC - possibly ECU problem?" Tags="|focus|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:26:03.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am surprised this hasn't been suggested yet - use simple piece of carpet - easy to pack in the car, Easy to use :) Or, use your floor mats if you have no carpet at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4k60Ebgqi0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4k60Ebgqi0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:26:03.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28881" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:26:14.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own a car with an immobilizer in it, but as I understand how they work, there is a code that must be entered, somewhere, to get the car to start if the battery was disconnected or gone flat. They even sell a device that holds up the radio and the immobilizer while the car is being worked on. It's basically a power source that plugs into the cigarette lighter and puts voltage into the system and allows just enough current to hold things up but not create a problem if shorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vehicle manual should have a section about the immobilizer and what to do if it is preventing your car from starting. I hope you have the code for the car, as otherwise a trip to the dealer may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:26:14.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28877" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:32:23.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When putting the tires back onto the car after replacing the rotors and pads, you need to torque the nuts to the proper specification. If you don't, and or if you don't use a star pattern to torque down the lug nuts, you can warp the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have, or can you borrow a dial indicator? With that and a magnetic base you can measure the run out on your brand new rotors. If they are out of spec, you may have damaged them by over torquing the lug nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, was there any debris on the hub that got between the rotor hat and the face of the hub? If anything is trapped in there it will push the rotor off axis and that can cause a shimmy as well. To find any of these problems you need to measure the run out with a dial indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at the end of the day, always torque your lug nuts to spec. Over torquing can and does cause exactly this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:32:23.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28830" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:41:45.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tracy,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen bad gasoline contaminate a Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor. Fill up with gas, five miles later check engine lamp comes on (i.e. a code is set. )  This causes permanent damage to the sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again these failures WILL set a code and turn on the Check Engine light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you've not mentioned the light coming on. Where are you located?  In many places your local auto parts dealer will read the codes for free. Gratis. At no cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:41:45.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:07:04.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait what? Let's look at some physics here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have less grip in the front, your car understeers, you hit the tree and you die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have less grip in the rear, you ovesteer, you hit the tree and die again, not seeing what killed you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Rear end Grip&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Shocks are important to maintain the balance of the vehicle in a turn and ensure contact of the tire with the surface as much as possible. When shocks are no longer performing as expected, wheels would bounce, reducing the time of contact and thus available grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. More rear end grip&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Once wheels are bouncing, the tires would ge tout of round pretty quickly causing even more bouncing, road noise, grip issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Chassis balance&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you would hit a pothhole or a bump in a turn, your car chassis would bounce uncontrollably for some time causing all kinds of unusual forces on your chassis. You are risking spinning off into a ditch and potentially rolling your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastEditorUserId="16836" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T21:12:49.713" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T21:12:49.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:31:12.630" Score="1" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read a lot of articles online, but still don't understand.  Is RAV4 SE higher trim than RAV4 XLE ? I asked two different dealers and got two different answers . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand SE is the sport version . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So which one is higher level?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16842" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T20:30:42.393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:22:53.860" Title="Is RAV4 SE higher trim than RAV4 XLE?" Tags="|toyota|rav4|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28887" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:44:08.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to Toyota's website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyota.com/configurator/#!/build/step/model/year/2016/series/rav4&quot;&gt;http://www.toyota.com/configurator/#!/build/step/model/year/2016/series/rav4&lt;/a&gt;. There is an option to compare all available trim levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not interested in the larger 18&quot; wheels and certain sport features than the comparison should be between the Limited and XLE editions. The Limited edition comes with more standard features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are comparing just the SE and XLE editions than the SE comes with more standard features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T21:44:08.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:53:05.450" Score="4" ViewCount="3282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Grand Caravan which eats brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 75.000 Kms they have been done three times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if slotted and cross drilled discs may be better than OEM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mostly city driving  problem was so severe dodge doubled the initial warranty on brakes  figured problem may be heat generated ???   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16844" LastEditorUserId="16844" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T23:22:37.673" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T07:31:15.267" Title="Rotors - Slotted and cross drilled, are they better than OEM rotors?" Tags="|brakes|dodge|grand-caravan|oem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28877" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:03:29.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake shake has to be from either warped rotors or irregular grabbing of the pads on the rotors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You said you just put on new rotors, right? Really new ones? Its possible that one of the new rotors isn't square to its mounting.  I would think you'd be able to see this with a dial indicator. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the flat inner surface of the rotors is smooth to the wheel hub? A small rock stuck in there could be the culprit.  Alternatively, if the inner diameter of the new rotors was too small to the hub, then there would be an interference, and the rotor wouldn't seat home.  You would not really know.  If its close you can try the play-doh test.  Take a small ball of Playdoh modeling clay ($0.50 at Walmart) place it in a location where the rotor should touch the hub, push the hub on, remove it and see how flat the playdoh got squeezed?  Playdoh is awesome for testing clearances between parts you can't normally see.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Differential Braking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's possible the shake comes from grossly differential braking at each of the corners.  I thought for your car the cross corners are linked (one brake circuit for Left Front, Right Rear, the other for Right Front, Left Rear)  Possible to bleed the brakes at each of the corners again? Start with the furthest wheel cylinder and bleed it. Then the next closest, etc.  If you had an air bubble in the wrong place that wouldn't be good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the shoes are free to move in their holders?  A stuck disk shoe wouldn't be good.  Possible you got one wonky to its retaining spring?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, how did you compress the wheel cylinders before you installed the new shoes?  Did you use an unbalanced C-Clamp to a zillion foot pounds of torque?  Its possible you scored or jammed the piston inside the wheel cylinder, so that wheel doesn't get appropriate braking force.  (You can use a C-clamp and scrap wood to balance the loads but you have to go way slow and gentle.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, depending on the design, rear wheel discs can be problematic depending on the how they interface to the parking brake.  I remember older Nissan's having a terrible time with this.  The parking brake self adjuster would get jammed up and create terrible havoc in the brake system.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One other thought.  If you somehow spilled excess lubricant on one of the brake pads that might make things go wonko.  Generally this will burn off after a while, but not necessarily.  I don't know how this would propagate to the car during braking but it wouldn't be good.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idea for a quick test... find a quiet street with no traffic.  Drive the car with long slow apply of brakes.  You want to generate a little bit of heat.  Then stop the car, turn it off, jump out and test the temperature of all eight surfaces of the brake rotors (carefully) with your fingers.  Do they all feel equally warm?  If one surface feels cold I'd start the investigation there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T22:17:29.940" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:17:29.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21187" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:17:13.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although, your point about cold engine mounts applies, I would doubt they heat up enough to significantly affect vibration transfer to the interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, what you might look at is increasing your idle speed a bit if that's easily doable. Every engine has a range of natural resonance, the range where the engine simply vibrates more than in other ranges. Below certain threshold, engine would vibrate no matter what. Quality of fuel and age of the engine would also matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason why you experience it less when cold, is because cars add more fuel mixture and increase RPM when cold to warm up quicker. Once it settles at the normal idle mark at 690 RPM, it starts to vibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check your engine mounts to see if they are still intact. Sometimes mounts might deteriorate and engine would be resting on metal frame incresing any kind of vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:17:13.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25429" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:28:26.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First drive a bit and measure the temperature of the wheels with a&#xA;gauge or even by touch. Whichever are hotter, that side is jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then based on that, remove the wheel, and remove the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical caliper consists of 2 pins that it moves on and one piston that pushes against the inner pad. The pins is what you are after. They should be easily movable in and out by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pins are ok, have a look at the piston and confirm that it's not rusted our and can move with some force if it's not a screw-in type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:28:26.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24527" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:32:03.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rubber is grinding against the front wheel well liner - there is a plastic area there your tire grinds against on full lock because you upsized your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution - take a heat gun and warm up the area where the tire grinds, then push it out a bit. Don't overheat as it easily melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lnchi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lnchi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:32:03.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28154" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:47:35.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if your shock is still in  a good condition. Push or jump on each side of the vehicle whichever way you can do it and see how long it takes for car to stop moving. Good shocks would stop the movement in one 1.5 compressions. Bad shocks 2 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be the wheel bouncing because of bad shock and with that all other issues with your suspension getting destroyed because of un-absorbed energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:47:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:55:12.640" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed out my alternator and got a battery last week. We can jump the car and the car will drive.  While I was letting it just sit to run to charge more the car cut off and nothing happens.  When the key is turned, no lights no nothing.&#xA;Its like the bad alternator drained my battery to nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could it be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just hooked battery up a charger to see if new battery is culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16849" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T04:29:53.940" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:37:48.343" Title="2004 mustang v6 new altenator and battery" Tags="|ford|battery|starting|alternator|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28860" CreationDate="2016-04-25T23:17:40.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem occasionally on my old Subaru Forester as well. My research indicates that it's essentially just down to wear in the transmission or connected parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular for my car &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/5th-gear-pops-out-43519/#post490733&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a backed-off nut on the rear of the transmission's input shaft&lt;/a&gt; is often implicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the specific makeup of yours, but easy-ish stuff to check would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slop and wear in the linkage between the shifter lever and the transmission (including any stabilizer bar or mounts that may be present)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the transmission and possibly engine mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slop and wear in the driveshaft, any of its u-joints, and its connection to the transmission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, I think you'll be opening the tranny case to look at bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:17:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T23:47:17.890" Score="2" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key to start my car it cranks but wont start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter still turns when I take my hand off the key.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key again it starts up perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas regarding what this issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16850" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T00:07:32.603" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:07:32.603" Title="Pontiac Solstice - Starter Issue" Tags="|starter|pontiac|ignition-key|solstice|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28889" CreationDate="2016-04-25T23:52:24.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you are best off with blank rotors(no slots, no holes) just like stock.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slotted rotors are more aggressive on the pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drilled rotors are plain dangerous unless they are a good quality(read expensive) that were cast with holes in place not drilled after the casting. generally, cheap drilled rotors are for looks only. They are also less efficient in general as contact surface is less and heat dissipation suffers as well. They are also more aggressive on the pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is what you can do:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up good quality Ceramic pads - they will last longer compared to the low quality organic or semi-metallic pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;turn&quot; your rotors at the brake shop of there is thickness left to do so safely( shop will know if it's a good shop ), or get new ones - don't need any fancy ones - rockauto.com has great prices and that's where I get most of my parts. Brands like Centric or PowerStop are more then enough for daily driving. But do get blank without any slots or holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your braking habits - this will just improve life of your pads proportionally to the quality of your pads :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential reason your pads are eaten away so quickly:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are cheap organic pads that shops sells you and don't last long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rotor surface is in bad condition and that affects the pad life as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are hard on your brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You drive down a long hill every single day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T23:52:24.963" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16517" CreationDate="2016-04-26T00:01:41.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting rotors is required when the surface is not uniform - has grooves from old pads. If your surface is smooth, you don't need to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it can be the case that you need to cut only front or rear rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vibration will go away on it's own, but you need to adjust your braking habits - if you are braking hard, try not to stop and keep holding your brakes - better roll a couple feet very slowly to not let the pads glue themselves to hot rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:01:41.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T01:21:25.220" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i bought my BRAND NEW Corolla 6 months ago. Recently i started smelling a musky smell coimg out of the AC. The smell is especially persistent when the AC is off (yes OFF, not ON) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went to the dealership, and they told me that was okay blah blah . There is nothing they could do. They told this was because the AC leaves some water residue in the pipes, and later that water gets mildew . Crazy  ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched youtube videos on how to fix this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYKN3bypcT0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;There was a guy explaining how to apply Lysol right into the outside AC intake.&lt;/a&gt; So I did, and the smell went away temporarily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a week. Then the smell started all over again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the dealership again, and they asked me if I wanted to change the cabin filter, so I did (spend $100) . But the smell did not go away .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I did wrong ? Maybe I should have applied Lysol from the very beginning as a preventative measure . What should I do, when I get my second car ? Are there any specific maintanence tricks I should know about &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16843" LastEditorUserId="16843" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T01:38:44.633" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:38:44.633" Title="Is Lysol a good treatment for the musky AC smell?" Tags="|ac|corolla|smell|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-26T04:10:51.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28908" CreationDate="2016-04-26T01:25:18.813" Score="13" ViewCount="8720" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I am talking about manual cars and I know this is considered impossible because of the synchronized gears, but lets suppose that you can manage to shift gears (For example you could shift into reverse when stopped and then pull the car forward with another car, or even better, roll down a hill, always with the clutch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you are moving forward at a reasonable speed, for example 100 km/h, and then you release the clutch with the reverse gear engaged, what would happen then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the engine would be forced to rotate the other way around, wouldn't it? Then, because of that, the engine would stop, and therefore it will &quot;generate&quot; a lot of force to the transmission and cause the car to reduce speed (all of this, if nothing breaks, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this assumption correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hakNxO5pME4&quot;&gt;Myth Buster's chapter&lt;/a&gt; that tries this but with no luck on shifting the gear. Please try to avoid answers telling that it is impossible to shift into reverse when moving forward, as I stated before, I am supposing it can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12321" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:18:50.733" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T16:41:42.350" Title="What would happen if you shifted into reverse while you are going forward?" Tags="|transmission|clutch|engine-theory|gears|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28907" CreationDate="2016-04-26T02:37:46.607" Score="5" ViewCount="11177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have 14/180/65 installed, if I were to install a 15 inch rim with the factory specified tire size for the 15 inch rim would it raise my car height ? I also have 30mm lowering springs installed would it cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:26:48.053" Title="Will bigger rims raise my car height" Tags="|wheels|ride-height|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T02:54:29.110" Score="5" ViewCount="49252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Triton v10 engine in my vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have oil in my coolant but no coolant in the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16854" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T03:37:12.610" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T18:55:59.797" Title="I've got oil in my coolant but no coolant in the oil - Ford Triton V10 Motorhome" Tags="|ford|oil|coolant|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28904" CreationDate="2016-04-26T04:21:28.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you increase the rim size, you get a lower profile tire so that the overall outside diameter doesn't change.  At the tire store and some websites this is known as your car's +1 (or +2, +3) tire size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't change the tire size you'll run into several issues from minor annoyances like the speedometer being wrong to major issues like rubbing (and subsequent blow-outs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T04:21:28.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28902" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:06:44.873" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My theory is that the engine would be forced to rotate the other way around, wouldn't it? Then, because of that, the engine would stop, and therefore it will &quot;generate&quot; a lot of force to the transmission and cause the car to reduce speed (all of this, if nothing breaks, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put simply, in most cases, the motor will stall and the tires will lock. In some cases (enough speed or weight), you may force the motor to turn the opposite direction because reverse gearing is so low it would impart a high amount of torque to the input shaft, enough to rotate the motor in the opposite direction. This can happen with heavy trucks and vehicles pulling trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By putting so much torque in such a small amount of time (what is called &quot;Clutch Dumping&quot;), provided the clutch doesn't slip, you will destroy the transmission. The reverse gear was never intended to handle that much torque. However, (not recommending this in ANY way) if you were to put the vehicle in reverse gear with enough weight pulling it forward, or if you were to slowly release the clutch on a lower compression motor (most modern motors are very difficult to rotate due to their compression ratio) you could theoretically manage to rotate the motor in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this cause damage? Perhaps not immediately except for the case of sudden shock to the internals. During extended operation, in engines with mechanical oil pumps, you would starve the bearings and motor of oil because the oil pump is now also rotating in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastEditorUserId="16773" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T09:57:38.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T09:57:38.687" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28910" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:17:27.207" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title is pretty self descriptive.&#xA;It's common practice to equip your vehicle with bigger rims simply to achieve aesthetically pleasing looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm against modifications exclusively for the way they look it's getting harder to find rims for wehicles with rims smaller that 15&quot; so I was contemplating fitting wider rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect do +1,+2 or +3 inch tires have on your vehicle when installing bigger diameter rims?&#xA;Do they influence negatively on suspension and handling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T07:23:46.303" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T08:15:51.807" Title="How does mounting +1,+2 and +3 affect your vehicle?" Tags="|tires|suspension|wheels|handling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-04-26T20:27:03.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28909" CreationDate="2016-04-26T07:47:50.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you get the least trouble when the circumference of the new tire is close to the old tire. So when you move to bigger rims, you also need lower-section tires. &#xA;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire size calculator&lt;/a&gt; to find a combination that works well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the circumference of the new tire is much larger than the old one, your speed will be higher at the same rpm, your speedometer reading will be incorrect (too low), and acceleration will suffer. &#xA;You can also get problems with the wheel hitting the bodywork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to a lower-section tire, the ride gets a bit less comfortable (the tire can't absorb bumps as well because it's stiffer), but handling improves (a stiffer tire means it allows less sideways movement of the rim relative to the contact patch). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger rims can also increase unsprung weight, which may mean the ride over short bumps gets less comfortable. &#xA;This could stress the shock absorbers a bit more, but I don't think this is significant. They're rated for the maximum weight of the car, which is a lot more than the few kg you can add in unsprung weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsprung weight doesn't change the ride height. The tire diameter can change the ride height, but you need to go to a much bigger tire size to make a visible difference in ride height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T08:15:51.807" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T08:15:51.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:11:03.163" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Ranger. I thought I lost my keys and ended up destroying my pat system, then I found my keys but now I can't get it to start. what are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16862" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:13:02.773" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T09:53:21.833" Title="2000 ford ranger won't start" Tags="|ford|starting|ranger|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28911" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:15:45.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it looks like once the Ford PAT system has tripped, it needs a dealer to fix it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T12:15:45.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28914" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:34:07.733" Score="9" ViewCount="39345" Body="&lt;p&gt;On many engines I've seen coolant is circulated through the Idle Air Control valve and the throttle body. One such example is the Mazda 2L 4 cylinder FS used in the 626.  The IAC is ECU controlled, and there is a coolant temperature sensor, so what would be the purpose of running coolant through the IAC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in this diagram for example that it flows in the IAC then out through the Throttle Body ( or maybe the opposite direction, I'm not sure ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVg0O.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVg0O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mazda626.net/topic/39618-iac-idle-air-control-throttle-body-cleaning-1993-2002-i4/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=318756&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a great picture here&lt;/a&gt; which shows exactly how the coolant flows through the IAC to the TB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:56:17.243" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T13:22:12.863" Title="Why Does Coolant Flow Through the IAC and Throttle Body" Tags="|engine-theory|iac-valve|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28913" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:46:37.057" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely it's not flowing through the IAC, but rather around the throttle body. In most cases this is done to keep the throttle plates from freezing when it's cold outside. The coolant running through there can provide a lot more heat than is normally available without it, even with a cold vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had the same type thing on the 4th Gen Camaro. Owners would typically bypass this as when the coolant is hot, it actually provides heat to the intake system, which brings down HP somewhat. In most cases you'd want to bypass this instead of blocking off both ends so the coolant continues to flow correctly. If you chose to plug this up, coolant isn't going the directions it normally would and might cause cooling issues or coolant backups. While this isn't likely to happen, there is the possibility of it happening, especially for weaker cooling systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you live, I'd suspect freezing throttle plates are not a worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T13:22:22.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T13:22:22.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28974" CreationDate="2016-04-25T20:24:26.703" Score="9" ViewCount="4414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2008 Tohatsu 9.8 HP four stroke outboard.  My low speed jet keeps getting fouled and on several occasions, I've found yellow almost crystalline &quot;growths&quot; for lack of a better word inside the carburetor.  They look like tiny sulfur crystals, and crumble into incredibly fine powder if you touch them.  Since everything's been soaked in gasoline, there's no way to smell the powder to see if it is indeed sulfur or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIFly.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIFly.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tohatsu Carburetor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use alcohol free gasoline (now, but there's still a mixture of gas with ethanol and mostly ethanol free) in the tank.  I use both Marine Sta-Bil &amp;amp; Startron in my fuel.  The fuel runs through several filters including a Racor Fuel/Water separator and there's nothing evident in the fuel if I run it into a clear glass jar right at the carburetor inlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boat sits in a marina in brackish water, fairly close to the river inlet into the bay, so it's mostly salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the carburetor soaking in dip right now, and new jets and gaskets on order.  I've gotten so good at removing and cleaning my carburetor I can do it in about 40 minutes now.  I almost always find the low speed jet plugged with something.  I can't blow whatever it is out, I have to  use a fine piece of wire to dislodge whatever it is (I'd assume a glob of the yellow stuff, but can't really tell, it's so small).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  Any ideas on how I can prevent it in the future? This isn't the first time this has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Yesterday &lt;em&gt;30 April 2016&lt;/em&gt; I reinstalled the carburetor and the engine ran just fine, although it didn't seem to want to settle down to an even idle, but it only died once while it was still cold.  I applied a little choke to make the mixture a bit more rich until it warmed up a bit, then ran it at idle for about 20 minutes or so.  After that, I pulled the fuel connector and ran the carburetor dry.  I probably won't be back for a weekend or two which is about how long it's taken in the past for the crystals to show up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experiment begins, cross your fingers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:  06 Jun 2017&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It's been a long time getting back to this, we didn't take the boat out for a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; long time due to various medical problems my wife &amp;amp; I experienced in the interim.  That said, the last time I was at the boat (and ran the engine), I ran the fuel out of it as suggested.  Several weeks ago we took it out for a short sail and had absolutely zero problems with the outboard.  We ran the carburetor dry on that occasion as well and I hope to continue with this new behavior.  I'd like to unlearn how to clean the carburetor so quickly in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the suggestions and help, my wife &amp;amp; I appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16865" OwnerDisplayName="delliottg" LastEditorUserId="16865" LastEditDate="2017-06-06T20:40:21.867" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T20:40:21.867" Title="What is the yellow precipitate in my outboard's carburetor?" Tags="|fuel-system|carburetor|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28918" CreationDate="2016-04-26T13:50:19.993" Score="70" ViewCount="35930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are classic cars safe? I am interested to know the differences between modern vehicles and vehicles of old from the 1960s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the event of an accident, how does a classic vehicle compare to a modern machine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are safety features on new vehicles really a life saver?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anything be done to improve the safety of classic vehicles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are classics safe enough to be used as a daily driver?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T14:42:49.597" Title="Are classic cars safe?" Tags="|car|safety|old-cars|classic|" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T13:50:22.877" Score="6" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this mower is only 5 years younger than I am... I was having problems with it last weekend when I was trying to get it out. Charged the battery, checked the carb and checked the starter. Everything looked fine. I bypassed the seat safety cause I thought that was the culprit. Put everything back together and it started and purred like a kitten. It was to late to start mowing so I put her up. Yesterday I was going to mow so I started it up and went to engage the blades and it died. I think there is a safety switch of some sort at the end of the engage/disengage lever under the dash. That is a whole other problem cause I can't figure out how to take the dash off... please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16863" LastActivityDate="2022-12-18T22:08:21.030" Title="1993 Model Craftsman (917.257560) dies when blades are engaged" Tags="|lawnmower|craftsman|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:03:28.657" Score="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physical safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars are amazingly more safe than classic cars.  Guys that are into classic cars frequently throw around phrases like &quot;They don't make them like they used to!&quot; or &quot;This is built like a tank with real American Steel!&quot;, but when you look at a classic car in an accident, the results are pretty obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2009 this crash test was done between a 1959 &lt;em&gt;Chevy Bel Air&lt;/em&gt; and a 2009 &lt;em&gt;Chevy Malibu&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPF4fBGNK0U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/J8YXyV1.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Click for video&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPST.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aftermath of crash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iihs.org/iihs/sr/statusreport/article/44/9/2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.iihs.org/iihs/sr/statusreport/article/44/9/2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aftermath of the crash shows how the modern &quot;crumple zones&quot; almost completely protect the driver's area in the 2009 whereas the 1959 driver would certainly be badly crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to crumple zones built into the frame, there are other thoughtful features like collapsible steering columns and as a high tech option the car will call and report the accident to emergency responders for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the comments (thanks tallpaul):&lt;/em&gt; here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HCecdOBCFjI?t=326&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another video&lt;/a&gt; of a 1980 Volvo and a 2000 Renault.  Not classic per se but it does show a marked difference in technology even in that 20 year span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti-lock Braking Systems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars also come with ABS which reduces stopping distances while maintaining a level of steering control.  The difference between the car sliding to an uncontrolled stop and quickly slowing down while being able to steer around obstacles or even to just stay on the road is huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Restraint Systems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars from the 60s and earlier don't even have a 3-point seatbelt (shoulder belts), but modern cars are required to have them, and many also have seatbelt tensioning systems that tighten the belt and hold you in the seat in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to better belts modern cars also have several airbags to cushion the occupants in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T12:55:09.453" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T12:55:09.453" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28997" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:54:48.743" Score="8" ViewCount="23690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this weird issue that has started happening since I switched back to summer tires this weekend that wasn't there last summer/winter. My car fights back when braking, but appears to pick a random side. I drove on the same road and braked at the same-ish spot and my car decided to tug in both directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I thought this would be tire pressure, but when it happened to tug on the other side, I was convinced it wasn't. (After checking pressure, it wasn't)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be my alignment or balancing? These are brand new tires on brand new wheels. It's also the transition between seasons which means there's a bit of sand on the road from the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I believe this leaves the brakes/calipers malfunctioning but I'm at a loss on how to diagnose this. Especially since the only variable changed are my wheels and tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T14:02:25.693" Title="Car randomly pulls left or right when braking" Tags="|steering|braking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28920" CreationDate="2016-04-26T15:11:19.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree that this is a wheel alignment issue, as the car is pulling randomly to either side - I'd expect alignment to either show no pulling, just tire wear, or to pull consistently to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you take the car to a mechanic you trust, and get them to check out the calipers - sounds like they may be sticking randomly. You don't say how old the car is, but this is more likely on older cars where the brakes have been worked on and the mechanic hasn't been greasing the slidepins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T15:11:19.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T15:18:53.467" Score="8" ViewCount="3909" Body="&lt;p&gt;When purchasing new tires, the salesman is quick to recommend getting an alignment as well to prevent premature tire wear.  I've even been told that you have to get the alignment done when the tires are new so they will allow the wheels to sit evenly and that worn tires will invalidate the alignment process since the wheels would then be &quot;aligned&quot; to the wear pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my head this seems to make sense because the wheels need to be aligned with the cars weight on the wheels to &quot;set&quot; the suspension, right?  And if the wheels are resting on the ground (or the machine, whatever) wouldn't a very-unevenly-worn tire make the wheel crooked?  Is this a real concern or is it a logical fallacy that the salesman is relying on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, is it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; recommended that I get an alignment &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; I get new tires?  I've seen what a bad alignment can do to tires, so if the old ones are worn evenly, should I even bother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T06:22:08.983" Title="Can I only get an alignment on new tires or is the salesman just being pushy?" Tags="|tires|maintenance|alignment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28775" CreationDate="2016-04-26T15:20:46.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good answers here to the off-topic question. Some people refer to problems of &quot;cost&quot;, some to problems of &quot;energy&quot;. Pay attention though: these are the same thing really. You have to do some basic accounting to determine if the business is viable. The most basic accounting is the &quot;energy-in&quot; - &quot;energy-out&quot; balance. If you are making a hydrocarbon in the lab, there will always be a loss, due to the principle of conservation of energy, and the unfortunate fact that we can't make a device that is 100% efficient. You will never break even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might well be more efficient ways of storing and delivering your lab's energy source than in a hydrocarbon chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16869" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T15:20:46.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28927" CreationDate="2016-04-26T15:30:21.967" Score="10" ViewCount="3274" Body="&lt;p&gt;When someone looks at a classic car for a project how can you check for rust during the purchase process?  I've heard of horror stories when someone sends a vehicle off to be sand blasted to only find that it is riddled with rust.  Do large patches of surface rust indicate deeper issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T09:01:17.280" Title="Is there a way to check for rust on a classic car before purchase?" Tags="|rust|hotrod|classic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-26T15:30:37.840" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking two different questions - are they safe, and are they as safe as a modern car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question - No. An older car without all the modern safety features will not protect you, your passengers, or pedestrians as well as a modern car will in the event of a crash - You don't have airbags, crumple zones, ABS, NCAP ratings and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first though, it really depends on what you mean by safe - If you're driving a classic car, you won't generally be driving as fast, and you'll be more in tune with your surroundings - you have fewer driver aids, forcing you to concentrate more than the 'average' driver. This hopefully makes you less likely to cause an accident - but of course doesn't insulate you from other people! Whether that makes it safe to drive a classic as your daily driver depends on many factors - I would never do so in a heavy city commute, but would happily do so if I were just pottering around country lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, other opinions may vary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T15:30:37.840" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:16:07.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When purchasing any vehicle, new or old, you will have to inspect it for rust damage. Certain vehicles are known to rust in specific areas due to the nature of their design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surface rust may just be that, surface rust. Flash rusting does not necessarily mean that the metal is rotten right through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of flash rust. Most of the time, you can hit this with a wire wheel or flap disc and you will still have structural integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VkOL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VkOL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a frame rail with severe rust issues. In the event of purchasing a vehicle with significant damage such as below, you would have to replace the rail completely with new metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMD5Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMD5Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you test areas? Bring a magnet and a body hammer. A magnet will let you know how strong the metal is, and if there is any there. It's also a great way to tell if a car has body fill in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the narrow end of the body hammer to tap areas in question. You will immediately be able to tell the difference between healthy metal and garbage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hh3f6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hh3f6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T16:16:07.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28930" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:23:34.490" Score="14" ViewCount="40076" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, when restoring a classic car I've been typically taught it was proper to get the entire vehicle sand blasted to see any issues and make any needed repairs them move to paint.  However, is sand blasting safe or does it do more damage then good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T06:46:29.530" Title="Is sand blasting safe on old cars?" Tags="|body-work|hotrod|classic|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:39:17.890" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the assertion that &lt;a href=&quot;http://orangecaraccident.mobi/the-truth-about-low-speed-auto-accidents&quot;&gt;most car accidents occur at speeds of 12MPH or less&lt;/a&gt;, most classic cars should be considered safe. Your odds of surviving a crash at parking-lot speeds are very good. However, your chances of walking away with only some bruises are much lower than with a modern car. In even a walking-speed collision, a classic car is going to transfer much of the impact energy to you, due to the rigid frame and body construction. Couple that with a simple lap belt and full metal dashboards and you can see where morbid comments like &quot;just replace the radiator and hose off the dash and sell it again&quot; came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T16:39:17.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28928" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:46:31.883" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandblasting your frame is fine. Sandblasting your body or any panel can be debated until the pigs fly home. People have been doing it for decades, and get by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you sandblast your body/panels, you run the risk of creating more metal/bodywork for you to do in your restoration. This is because the heat from the sandblaster can warp the panels. If you are not able to repair metal the primitive way, then you are looking at adding body fill to compensate for the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Dustless&quot;, Water Based Blasting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of blasting can also be called slurry blasting. The unit holds water, your abrasive of choice, (preferably glass), and a rust inhibitor. You can thoroughly clean any surface, and not have to worry about the metal warping, or rusting. The water cools the metal, and the rust inhibitor will prevent it from flash rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done, you then spray down the vehicle with an attachment such as the Chameleon. The rust inhibitor is inside the canister to prevent flash rusting while you rinse the abrasive off the panel. You can then dry it with a leaf blower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that work, you are ready to paint immediately if there is no welding/bodywork to be done. The cleaning process is done within the blast. This is the only method which is endorsed by the major paint companies like Sherwin Williams and PPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5xbl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5xbl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0jVPZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0jVPZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soda Blasting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soda blasting will create comparable results to water based blasting, with one minor downfall. The cleaning process. If you do not thoroughly clean the sprayed application, you can welcome the possibility of severe issues in your paint process. Horror stories of high end paint jobs where the paint flakes off is not uncommon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acid Dipping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get your metal dipped acid. This can be cost effective or not depending on your location. Some cities may not even offer this alternative. Size is generally the biggest issue you may encounter with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grinding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you can use a wire brush. It's very time consuming, and physically exhausting. It can be done, and is an age old method that many people take. You will need a high amp grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T16:46:31.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28928" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:46:35.653" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sand blasting is perfectly safe for the metal, especially considering the heavier panels used in classic cars. However, it's less safe for the person doing the sandblasting, due to the higher levels of lead paint and bodywork used in old cars. Pure lead was often used to fill dents and body seams in older cars, and you can imagine what breathing a cloud of that in will do to your lungs. There's also a danger of silicosis from the high-silica sand that is often used. So sand blasting is probably safer for the car than it is for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T16:46:35.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28174" CreationDate="2016-04-26T16:50:45.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that you stalled the car uphill and that it is acting that have most likely nothing in common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear knob vibration is quite normal on older cars. Also, when car is on low RPM under load, vibrations tend to be more prominent in manual transmission cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with driving the car on the flat surface to see if it's accelerating as expected. If the exhaust smells with fuel, it is most likely running rich, whcih can be caused by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fueling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Injectors might be leaking flooding one of the cylinders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs are old, improperly gaped, soaked with fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coils are old, damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sensors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;primary O2 sensor is faulty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to join car-specific forum like one below and those guys might have a common problem/solution for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiTgOGL4azMAhUL3WMKHSlCCO0QFggbMAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.s15oc.com%2F&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNG9pwc3UIf0G4RqDfVJRSz5NCs8Mg&amp;amp;sig2=uEsNMbHqvkKB9E8UX2kTZA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;s15 Club&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T16:50:45.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28922" CreationDate="2016-04-26T17:04:49.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get an alignment at any time. It's often a good idea to get one when you get new tires, just so you don't mess them up if you have any alignment issues. However, you should also get one done if you have any kind of suspension work done (new shock absorbers, new tie rods, etc.) While you probably don't need to have one done if your tire wear is even, it's probably a good idea, since I assume you only buy new tires every four or five years, and it's reasonable to have a new alignment done that often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:04:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27383" CreationDate="2016-04-26T17:05:16.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First the bicycle example:&lt;/strong&gt; resistance is acceleration essentially. If you feel it, you accelerate. You can spin your pedal only so fast, so after some time, you can no longer increase the speed of your pedals, and thus the speed of the bike, that's the time when your efficiency dropped, and you need to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now the cars:&lt;/strong&gt; Similar concept applies to car engines. Each engine type has it's own efficiency range. If you noticed, car manufacturers would specify peak torque and HP readings at a certain RPM. For some engines it's at 4k RPM, for some at 6.5k RPM. It depends on the engine design, displacement, type, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, efficiency range can be adjust with different profile camshafts for different engines types, it's usually diled specifically for the vehicle needs - if it's a city vehicle, it would be making power rather early and feel snappy of the lights, but will run out of steam in the higher RPM. On the other side, sport vehicles would have peak power available rather late in the RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are out of the efficiency range, the forces acting on the engine components like friction and inertia increase, efficiency decreases and you feel loss of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very expensive to make an engine that is efficient in most of the RPM range, but many companies actually have variable timing like V-TEK for Honda, VVTI for Toyota, MIVEC for mitsubishi. This feature adjusts the cam-shaft profiles based on pre-programmed tune and helps to increase the range in which engine makes the power most efficiently. Alternatively, Constant Variable Transmission are also there to always keep you in the most efficient range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:05:16.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T17:17:57.397" Score="6" ViewCount="1640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the compressor and dryer at the suggestion of a nearby shop. I've charged the system and the high side reads a solid 100psi the low side cycles between 70 - 110. Cycle time is about 2-3 seconds. As some of you may know this car does not have a clutch it is a variable displacement compressor. &#xA;Strange thing is that this is what it was doing before too. Anyone know anything about how to test the PAG or the pressure sensors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reasonable suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&#xA;LibertysChild&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16873" LastActivityDate="2019-06-30T23:08:22.760" Title="2010 TDI Jetta Strange A/C Pressure Readings" Tags="|vw|ac|jetta|pressure|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27514" CreationDate="2016-04-26T17:24:10.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more than likely the clear coat, and not rust. Here's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature change is one factor. The clear coat can sometimes expand differently than the base coat. Areas where snow get piled on can be a factor, as well as sections that get heated frequently, ie. hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid rain can breakdown the chemical bonds, and the above separation can occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Solvent popping&quot;, this typically does not happen on OEM paint jobs, but on repaints. When there is not enough dry time on base coats, or flash time on clear coats, this can occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing chemicals. If you use materials that are not compatible with one another, this can happen as well. This is a primary reason why people suggest to purchase from the same family of products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are probably more causes, your best solution is to sand it down and prepare the surface to finishing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:24:10.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19487" CreationDate="2016-04-26T17:25:55.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's put it this way. You burned your clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your clutch got stuck, you could just take it back and may be get it fixed under warranty, because it would be engagement mechanism, not the clutch disk. But by doing this: &quot;Rev counter maxes out and car goes no where until pedal comes back up!&quot; you burned your clutch, and most likely flywheel as well, so you are in for an expensive, out of warranty job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really takes one bad time to burn a clutch, and if you feel it's slipping, the worst you can do is keep holding the accelerator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will get it replaced under warranty, so be ready to pay a a bit, and next time, remember that regardless of miles or age of the car, you can burn the clutch in one bad launch or engagement of you are doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I have a car with 139k kms on thesame stock clutch with a number of launches, track days and aggressive driving. Friend of mine with the same car destroyed his clutch at 2700 kms one day. It really takes little effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:25:55.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:34:04.443" Score="7" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 2006 wrx heats up into the red going slow on back roads but is fine and shows no signs of any issue going fast.  what is the deal?  blown head gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16875" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T20:50:08.173" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T04:15:21.623" Title="2006 wrx overheats going slow but not at speed" Tags="|subaru|overheating|head-gasket|wrx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28938" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:40:43.820" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any reason to suspect a head gasket right off the bat like that.  The first thing that comes to mind is the electric cooling fans.  They are on the car specifically to keep it cool at slow speeds since you don't have natural air flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the car up to temperature, open the hood and wait for the fans to come on.  If they come on you can start looking for other issues, but I suspect this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't come on, you'll have to check fuses first, then check the temperature sensor that makes them come on.  If all of that is fine, you can check the fan connector for voltage.  If everything is OK, but the fan still doesn't come on, you could have a bad fan motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the simple stuff first.  I would probably even check fuses before even looking at the fans because sometimes it is that easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T18:40:43.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T18:49:25.703" Score="5" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no mechanic and do not have any mechanic knowledge etc and would like to hear from experts here regarding an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My query ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a Mercedes CL500 (2002 model) the water pump, idler pulley &amp;amp; tensioner was replaced by a garage. The car was taken by the car owner after the repair works and was driven around. The following day, according to the car owner, after driving around, the car had to be recovered and was taken to another garage. Also, the check engine light was 'on'. The second garage upon inspection gave the following explanation to the car owner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon inspection they found a poorly fitted water pump and so due to this the check engine light was on, whilst at the same time this restricted engine performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the poorly fitted and damaged water pump components the vehicles air conditioning had three times more pressure than required and therefore they had to do some repair work on the AC side of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They further explained that the water pump plays an integral role in the fully functioning of the entire engine system pumping water the to the coolant radiator as well as assisting the air conditioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my first question to experts here is that can a failed/poorly fitted water pump affect the AC system and as the second garage explained - make the AC system work under three times more pressure than usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the possible things that could happen due to a poorly fitted water pump and related components (i.e. idler pulley &amp;amp; tensioner)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first that did the repair work did, according to them, do all necessary post work checks, also left the engine running for a while, taken for test drive and was fine before releasing the to the car owner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mention of what the check engine code(s) were&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mention of coolant sign being on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bare in mind that the driver was able to drive car until the following day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No explanation given why the car was recovered, or whether it was 'driveable' but still recovered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is mention of the coolant temperature display sensor being replaced by the second garage but that was 2 weeks after the AC related repair works were carried out by the second garage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your input will be much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16838" LastEditorUserId="16838" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T19:09:16.480" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T00:06:32.593" Title="Mercedes CL500 Water pump &amp; AC" Tags="|ac|mercedes-benz|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:14:14.777" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already seen the safety comparisons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, classic cars are for fun. If you're looking for safety, a classic car isn't for you. If you're looking to have fun, go for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most things in life, there's a balance that you have to evaluate. No one can answer that for you. You have to do it for yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you willing to take the gamble because you really love the car? If so, go for it. But if you value safety over having a fun daily driver, go with a new car. You have to decide where your priorities lie. Personally, I drive a 2006 Nissan Frontier, mainly because I can't afford a '65 Ford Falcon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At almost 40 years old, I still ride motorcycles and want a classic car. That's where my heart lies. No one can tell you where your heart lies. That's up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16879" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:14:14.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27383" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:20:29.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of acceleration you feel depends on the amount of power the engine can deliver, and the speed you're driving at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Power&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal combustion engines are more efficient at some speeds than others. &#xA;To illustrate, here's a random power and torque curve: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eSupJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eSupJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque (which is the property you feel when you accelerate) peaks around 3000 rpm, and then starts to drop: the engine gets less efficient at higher rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag increases with the cube of speed, so it rises quickly when you accelerate. The faster you go, the more difficult it becomes to accelerate (the more torque you need). At some point, all of the engine's torque is spent counteracting drag (and other losses), and none is available anymore to accelerate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bikes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike, when you select a low gear and start pedaling as fast as you can, you run into the rev limit of your legs: the point where you can't pedal any faster because your nerves and muscles can't expand/contract any faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car something similar happens when you accelerate in low gear. Usually, the engine has a rev limiter to prevent damage. 4000 rpm is a very low limit for a petrol engine, but diesels can have limits in that region. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:20:29.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:43:08.157" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they are not safe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety standards dating back to before now were not as stringent as they are now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The further in time you go back the less safe they become.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety has been driven by governments and as regulations have become more stringent over time car manufacturers have had the responsibility to conform to the compliance stack of the time.  Whether it was driven by regulation or legislative action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 'classic' car from the 50's won't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;break away motor mounts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;break away stearing column&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;air bags from front impact to passenger curtain&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;seat belt impact tensioners&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reinforced side bars in the doors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;anti-lock brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, proactive crash prevention measures and technologies have been developed to create awareness into a critical situation before it becomes a disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tire pressure monitoring&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;blind spot detection&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;adaptive cruise control&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lane-departure warning/wake-you-up safety&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Emergency brake assist/collision mitigation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rearview camera's&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these technologies as well as many not listed have contributed to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.statisticbrain.com/car-crash-fatality-statistics-2/&quot;&gt;higher survival rates&lt;/a&gt; in accidents over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern cars are more safe.  Classic cars are less safe than modern cars.  Be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:43:08.157" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28928" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:51:50.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, sand blasting is safe if you're safe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety is variable.  What is safe?  Almost anything can be safe.  Exploding bombs can be safe, it just depends on the process you implement for your safety and the safety of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is sand blasting safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not if you sand blast with dioxin laced sand, but even then, you can wear a pressure suit and possibly make it safe for yourself, while your doing it.  Don't ever take the suite off and don't ever let your kids within a 1/4 mile of the site though, unless they're downwind, then extend it to a couple of miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, it's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now to answer your question in the correct context&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's safe for the steel.  It may put little tiny dimples into the steel if you hold it over a point for an extended period of time but in the end when you hit it with primer you will need to sand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding the primer prior to paint will take out any tiny imperfections in the steel.  If you strip the steel down completely you will see that it already had some imperfections.  The primer has a couple of purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;flatten things out so you can clean up imperfections&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;put something on the steel the paint will stick to&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand blast away, wear eye protection, send a picture of the completed work, have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T23:45:04.587" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:45:04.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28905" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:19:23.810" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has an engine oil cooler, that is most likely the problem, a faulty oil cooler, some are made into the radiator, others have heater hoses running to a remote oil cooler, and a few I have seen are where the oil filter screws on, the oil cooler has a leak into the coolant side. The reason no coolant is in the oil is because it is a high pressure leak, oil pressure is always higher than coolant pressure when running, so if the leak only happens at 20-25psi or above, coolant will never get into the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that it could be a head gasket as suggested but is rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the oil cooler is in the Radiator, obvious because it has big oil lines running into one of the end tanks, pull it and have it leak tested at a radiator shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:19:23.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:44:06.710" Score="2" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to drive across Morocco over the Atlas Mountains and into the Sahara desert with a hire car ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the hire car process I have no guarantees on the make/model of the car I will get but suspect given the road conditions and distances I will be driving it is a matter of when, not if I get a brake down (I'll get road-side assistance with the hire but it could be over 24hours away). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such I'm keen to lean how to undertake basic roadside repairs before I get into trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a UK based crash course where I can learn elementary roadside repairs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16883" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T14:28:17.897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T14:28:17.897" Title="Basic Roadside repairs courses" Tags="|maintenance|repair|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28920" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:46:43.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have worn out steering parts, these can cause your issue, worn parts cause slack in the steering, when you brake it will pull to the side which has the most slack at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test for steering slack by starting the car, leave it park, set the brake and roll down the drivers window, get out and reach inside the window and rock the steering wheel left and right about 3&quot; each direction while watching the front wheel, if there is slack you will see the wheel does not move at some point and the steering wheel is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause is front suspension problems, wheel bearings, ball joints or bushings have severe wear, take it to an alignment shop for a full diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not safe to operate the car in this condition, get it to a shop soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:46:43.050" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:51:37.477" Score="4" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intermittently, when it's cold out and I'm starting starting the vehicle and then shutting it off the vehicle will start to crank while the key is in the off position. With the vehicle in the off position the starter should not crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am lost as to what it could be. Seems like it might be the starter or ignition switch? How can I proceed with finding the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16884" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T04:28:17.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T04:28:17.857" Title="Starting issue with 2007 F350 6.0 diesel" Tags="|ford|starting|troubleshooting|ignition|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:53:06.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clear water is not a sign of requiring a flush. It might be a sign that you need some anti-freeze...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brownish water or any other color that is not the normal color of your coolant could potentially benefit from a flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain water in our engine could potentially cause problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water will boil over and not cool the engine sufficiently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Danger of rust if in contact with iron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot &quot;flush it yourself&quot; because they use a machine to power flush your system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Although you cannot power flush it yourself, you can use some other methods to flush it. Power flushes are actually potentially damaging to your coolant system, especially if your car or cooling system components are old.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drain and fill are safest, but sometimes you need to flush a bunch of crap out of the system (if you see a bunch of crap in the coolant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you dead-sure that the dealer service included coolant and they put mixed/colored coolant in? If they didn't put coolant, then are you sure you had mixed/colored coolant in there already?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is clear coolant in the overflow tank but colored fluid mixes in after it starts circulating, then it is very clear that the shop added in clear water to the overflow (whether they took some out or not) and you should never go there again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there is only clear coolant in your entire coolant system, then someone before them probably put a lot of plain water in your coolant system, whether the dealer or someone else before that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T17:17:05.413" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:17:05.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:56:27.123" Score="1" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intermittently, my brake pedal will drop slightly, and there will be a loud clunking noise, metal on metal sounding.  Normally happens at slow speeds, weather conditions don't seem to be a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16885" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T21:02:56.830" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:31:10.823" Title="Brake issues 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix" Tags="|brakes|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28951" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:20:28.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds like something to do with the brake hydraulics. possibly brake booster?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Need to state more information like HOW &amp;amp; WHEN things happen... What CAR? etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The noise is very odd, but MIGHT be attributable to sticking brake components that suddenly come loose. &#xA;Possible that some other kind of electronic control on your brakes is acting up as well, whether in reaction to sticking calipers or not. (Traction Control, Electronic Stability, etc.). Not sure if your car has these slightly more techy features.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless you work on cars, take it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed and fixed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brakes are safety critical so you dont want to leave it alone or do shoddy work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want, u can get it diagnosed and come back here to help you not get swindled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How hard are you braking when you experience this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do you know what the feeling of ABS turning on feels like? The pedal moves a little back and forth and you will feel the movement when braking, sound similar?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am pretty sure there is some procedure to test the ABS. If anything, you most likely can at least do a resistance check on the electronic components, which takes like 10 minutes and no $$$ at all. Have someone do some sort of REAL diagnostics before simply replacing parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T22:31:10.823" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:31:10.823" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28938" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:41:41.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cools at speed, but not at slow vehicle speed. Definitely an engine cooling fan issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's either the fan itself or the sending units that tell the fan when to come on.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best bet is to pick up a Multimeter and a manual that tells you the right signals from all the sending units involved (normally an engine temp sender.)  I'd recommend either a Haynes or a Chilton (New $30, from your local autoparts store.)  When you look at that manual, it will tell you where all the correct sending units are located, and what values they should read (engine off).  Normally these units offer a variable resistance based on temperature.  You can read that resistance with the Multimeter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously it could also be a wiring issue (power to the fan, or a signal input wire from a sending unit.)  Wiring could be cut or worn (on sharp sheet metal) or burnt (by engine exhaust).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may be a separate fan controller module somewhere, something that takes a low current signal from the Engine control computer and converts that to a high amperage Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal to drive the engine cooling fan. A PWM system allows for your electric fan to spin at different speeds. This acts like a relay.. cooling fans take a whole lot of electrical current. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additionally you should ensure your cooling system is sound.  Right amount of coolant, correctly operating fill cap (with an internal spring that controls the pressure of the cooling system.)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should ensure that there is no air blockage in front of the radiator / air conditioning condenser.  You need all the air you can get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please verify that the cooling fan shrouds are sealed very carefully around the radiator such that air is force thru the radiator when pulled by the cooling fan.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:41:41.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28956" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:51:07.680" Score="8" ViewCount="5684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do I have an &quot;Activated Carbon Cannister&quot; in my unleaded/petrol car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it's purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to do anything to maintain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would like a general answer, but my car is a 2003 Opel Agila if you want to be specific!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T22:38:31.750" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:38:31.750" Title="What is the &quot;Activated Carbon Cannister&quot;?" Tags="|fuel-system|engine-theory|emissions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28928" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:10:27.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Must be a location based thing, but in the UK sand hasn't been used for many years due to the very real dangers of inhaling even small amounts of silica from the bashed up sand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although folks still call it 'sandblasting', in reality it's 'media blasting' and the media varies from tiny plastic or glass beads to ground up walnut shells (believe it or not!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoiding damage to panels is down to the skill of the operator, period. A skilled operator will know what media to use, what pressure, the optimum distance from the metalwork and of course the speed of each pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the joy of working on a vehicle that has been properly stripped shouldn't be underestimated. Bliss when compared to working on a rusty paint covered bucket. At least with a stripped vehicle, you know what you're getting into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16888" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:10:27.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28954" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:30:52.463" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasoline is a pretty toxic liquid.  And it evaporates pretty easily. The Carbon Cannister is a system to help keep toxic fumes from gasoline out of the environment.  So here's how it works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fill your car up with gasoline at the gas station.  You add a gas cap to seal off the tank. Cool, no evil fumes can evaporate from your gas tank and contaminate the atmosphere.   But... have you ever seen the science experiment in elementary school where they suck a vacuum on a Cola can?  And the can goes totally flat because of the vacuum?  Well imagine your gas tank as the soda can.  As you drive, the gasoline gets consumed by the engine.  If you had a tight seal on the tank (remember we don't want to vent gasoline fumes) then your gas tank would squish flat.  And that's no fun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon canister is a tool that allows us to vent clean air into the gas tank to prevent the tank from going flat. Clean air comes in to replace the gasoline. Gas vapors that evaporate inside your gas tank get trapped by the carbon canister.  These vapors accumulate in the carbon canister and eventually get consumed by the engine.  I'm not sure of the exact drive cycle, but the engine computer, at periodic intervals, opens up the valving to the carbon canister and sucks the extra gasoline fumes stored there to the engine.  I thought this happens four or five times per hour but don't quote me on that.  A lot depends on your drive cycle, speed, etc...  Generally they want the gas tank at a very slight vacuum to atmospheric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make more sense?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note:  Because the carbon canister is design to accommodate gasoline fumes and not liquid gasoline, you never ever ever want to go to the gas station, fill up the tank, then fill to click, fill to click, fill to click, fill to click.  That is a bad thing to do. Just let it click once (and twice if you must) but never more than that.  If you overfill the tank, the liquid gasoline goes into the carbon canister and messes with it bad.  The only fix is to replace the carbon canister.  $$ ouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:30:52.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:50:25.003" Score="5" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;My teenage son bought himself a D105 tractor several years ago. After the winter, he pushed it onto our driveway, and we completed an oil change and lube.  Afterwards, he started up the tractor, drove it for about 15 feet, and a loud boom followed and the tractor stopped.  After about 3 weeks of sitting in our garage not knowing what to do, it was picked up by an authorized dealer for the Home Depot extended warranty he took out on the tractor.  It sat another 2+ weeks before the dealer could look at it, and said it was low on oil, and that's what caused the engine to blow.  Of course, the insurance plan will not cover it now since they stated it was low on oil, when in fact it was filled with a full tank of oil before the engine blew.  Can anyone please give this lost mom some advice on what could have been the cause of the engine to blow after an oil change/full tank of oil?  Thank you soooo much!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16890" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T06:27:18.513" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T06:27:18.513" Title="Motor blown after first oil change of the season after sitting all winter" Tags="|oil|motors|john-deere|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:51:38.267" Score="4" ViewCount="1285" Body="&lt;p&gt;In December 2015, my 2004 C-class wagon overheated (temp light came on, nothing dramatic) for the very first time while stuck in traffic for 30 minutes.  I had it towed to a nearby MB dealership (not my regular shop) where they were unable to replicate the problem.  For them the electric fan kicked on at 110 degrees C.  They threw their hands up in the air, but replaced the thermostat and did a cooling-system flush. For $1200.   Car running fine since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, last week I was stuck in traffic again (for the first time since the December repair) and again it overheated.  I had a bad feeling that it might, and it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop that did the &quot;repair&quot; in December maintains I must have some new problem, which I don't believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not losing coolant, there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, or white smoke out the tail pipe.  Water pump is new as of 4/15, radiator new as of 7/2011.  Original reservoir cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT (Additional information):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question about small-claims court, I am in NY and the shop is in NJ. I am seriously considering taking them to court, depending upon what my garage discovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know for a fact that they did not check the temperature gauge for accuracy, nor did they use an IR thermometer to evaluate the radiator. They did not replace the cap on the radiator or the cap on the overflow tank. Simple things that were not done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I evaluated the fan myself today. With the A/C on, the fan kicks on at a high speed shortly after I turn on the A/C (within seconds). When I turn off the A/C, the fan stops. When I let the car idle w/o the A/C on, the fan will kick on at ~100 degrees C, and run until the temp goes goes back down to ~90 degrees C. It will repeat this cycle as the car idles. I could not get the car to heat up to the red zone while running, so it has to be an intermittent problem that exists only under extreme conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did seem that the fan ran at a higher speed when the A/C was on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16889" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T11:26:52.237" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T17:51:43.787" Title="MB 2004 C320 wagon overheating at idle" Tags="|mercedes-benz|overheating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28850" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:08:19.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the optimal use of a choke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing how to use it as explained by Nic C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the cons of using it incorrecly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fouling spark plugs which will cause a misfire even after it warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gasoline getting in the oil past the piston rings due to being over rich too long and and causing pre-mature engine wear and lower compression due to the rings being washed out from raw unburnt gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What consequences does wrong use of choke have on the long run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same as last question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How important is it to gradually ease off the choke as the car starts warming up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very important&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How important is it to not push the engine too far while choke is engaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the choke it is hard on an engine to put too much load on it when it is cold. When oil is cold it does not flow well and this can cause pre-mature engine wear if you do not let the engine warm up all they way before romping on the gas pedal or pulling a heavy load (trailer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:08:19.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28957" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:28:37.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know there's low oil, and then there's low oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gotta tell you a story, its how I got started in automotive stuff.  So I was living in Germany as an American G.I.  I got interested in cars as a hobby.  A friend of mine had crashed his car into a curb at high speed, and the insurance company called it a total loss.  He wanted $300 for it.  I wanted the engine for a possible project.  Well it turns out the insurance estimator goofed and it wasn't a bent frame / broken transmission.  I was able to fix the car for the price of one new wheel, and $25 in parts and some work.  I sold the car for $1800 to somebody else in my unit.  The next day I see the guy on the side of the road with the car.  I told the guy to let me look at it and if it wasn't easily and immediately fixable, I'd give him a full refund of his money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it turned out the car I bought for its engine had spun the bearings for one of the connecting rods right out.  When I dissembled the engine that was quite clear.  It was equally clear that failure had absolutely nothing to do with the curb accident. I bought the car for the engine, and thought I was selling a car with a sound engine. My point here, is that things wear (when maintained poorly) and we have little control when they finally let go. I ended up rebuilding the engine from the bottom up and selling the car again for $1800.  I took this hobby to the max, for when I left the Army I went to work for an automotive company as a design engineer.  Way fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to your tractor.. what makes an engine have excessive wear... is low oil. The bearings need lubrication and from year #1 to the period before you changed the oil you may have been low (and / or using really dirty oil...)  Bearings wear. And when they wear out bad things happen.  (You did say the tractor was purchased several years before.  I'm guessing that it had in fact been run before, right?) The fact that it was full of clean oil when it finally let go won't hide the fact that the bearings, crankshaft, connecting rods and camshaft need oil. I'm guessing those parts were heavily scored, a sure sign of low (and/ or heavily) contaminated oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you asked the dealer to see the parts in question?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also possible the new oil caused a problem (perhaps a grossly wrong grade?) but I really doubt that.  Stuff happens.  Just never at the right time, sigh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:28:37.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:00:15.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important thing here. What exactly do you mean by &quot;the engine overheated&quot;? How do you know that? Did a light come on?  Did the gauge go into a warning zone?  Did the A/C quit working altogether (that's by design.. )  Did you see steam coming out from under the hood? How do you know its overheating?  I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just asking.  Note: if we're talking temperature here, normal coolant temperature for your car should be between 180 deg F and 235 deg F or so.  Just because the temperature is greater than 212 def F doesn't mean a thing.  Thats totally normal.   Remember the coolant system is under pressure @13 psi and water at that pressure won't boil until 245 Deg F or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the air conditioning running when you were stuck in traffic?  How hot was it outside?  What are the results of the idle / wall test?  the idle wall test, is you park your car 18&quot; from a brick wall / garage door, turn on the A/C, leave the car in idle. (If you were a mechanic hobbyist, I'd ask you to read the refrigerant head pressure at the inlet to the Condenser in front of the radiator while doing this test.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So, there are a few different things that turn on the engine cooling fan.  Its quite possible that something is askew here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The set points for the engine cooling fan are totally different if the air conditioning is engaged.  The air conditioning is set to run in automatic mode (when asked by the user) or automatically in Defrost or defog mode (often without the user's knowledge.)  In some cases the A/C system will turn on the engine cooling fan without any input from any other temperature related sensor.  So its possible that one of the sensors is not working or has a bad wire to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its also possible that you've got poor sealing between the radiator and the fan shroud that surrounds the cooling fan.  Those seals are WAY important when the vehicle is at slow speed (like being stuck in traffic jam.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not a do-it-yourself person, have your mechanic do the idle / wall test.  I'm quite sure the defect will repeat.  Note: normally that test takes 30 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's also possible your radiator isn't cooling as well as it should.  It could be clogged internally.  One key here is when you add coolant it should be a 50% / 50% mix of antifreeze and store bought distilled water.  You should never use water from the tap.  That's just bad, way bad.  Did the guys inspect the core inside the radiator for contamination and blockage (I'm assuming with a camera endoscope.  I gotta believe the Mercedes dealership has one.  They're not crazy expensive.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again to summarize: Low vehicle speed cooling is totally controlled by the fan pulling air thru the radiator.  That fan could be awry (coming on too late, or too slow, because of bad controller, or a faulty temperature sensor reading incorrectly).  You may not be getting the outside air from in front of the radiator to flow thru the radiator (which is why the seals around and in front of the radiator are so important. You could have blockage, A/C condenser in front of the radiator full of dead bugs, or aftermarket fog lamps in the way or a missing ground effects shield below the engine.)  And finally your radiator may not be cooling things off well (plugged radiator, coolant flow issues in engine or hoses, bubble in system not bled off correctly, etc..)  I will say for $1200 I'd expect a better analysis from the Mercedes Dealer.  And with the wall idle test ANYBODY can easily and quickly repeat the failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where are you located?  Is small claims court an option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit #2, Apologies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NY, huh.  I figured when you mentioned degrees in C that you were in Europe or Canada.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bunch of research and there is a whole lot of youtube postings and more on this topic. You've definitely got an electric fan and it definitely has a variable speed, pulsed width modulated (PWM) fan controller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems there is a high temperature warning light and a temperature gauge in your instrument panel cluster.  You gave me numbers of the fan coming on at 110 deg C for when the fan came on (that's 230F and a bit high for my liking...)  I would have thought it would come on at least at slower speeds at temperatures below that.  I'm thinking you've got a faulty temperature sender in the engine somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the A/C on = fast fan speed makes sense.  I know the guys in my design group did things that way.  High speed fan regardless of engine temperature. They're trading off great air conditioning performance at the risk of a little bit of fuel economy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it sure looks like the engine temp sensor is putting out the wrong temp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know this is something you could totally test for yourself without a whole lot of effort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need to spend $30 or less on a service manual for your car.  You want to buy a paper copy, not an online subscription.  I'd recommend Chiltons or Haynes or a factory service manual if you can find one used on Ebay or something.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think they may be big $$ if you order an official Mercedes manual from the dealer.  You might check on that cost. $300 wouldn't surprise me if they even offer it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are also going to need a Volt Ohm Meter (also called a multimeter)  You can &quot;borrow&quot; one for Free at Autozone (they come with the fuel injection repair kit) or purchase one nearly anywhere. Cost between $15 and $50, useful for testing dead flashlight and remote control batteries when you get home.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basically you are going to read the service book on cooling fan for your car and how it works. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will tell you which sending units measure temperature and where those little senders are located on the engine.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the engine off you can go to that sensor, and use the volt ohm meter to read the resistance.  The book will tell you the correct value.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the value is right it's good.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the value you read doesn't match the range in the book for that given temperature that sensor will need to be replaced. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need a couple of large towels to lay on the fender on both side of the engine.  No need to scratch up that beautiful car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now here's the bad news.  I don't know where the sensor on you car is located. It's possible that you have to remove a few parts just to get to it.  And removing parts often requires tools.  I wouldn't expect anything crazy, normally wrenches, metric sockets and a screwdriver or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additionally you are going to have to remove the wiring electrical connector from the sensor, and they normally snap into place.  There should be a release lever molded into the plastic. The connector is just made of plastic and it's going be way fragile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT JUST PULL ON THE WIRE HARNESS to remove the connector.  You DO NOT want to break the retainer system on the plastic electrical connector. You are going to have to figure out which tiny part to push to release the connector. Its going to be a tiny fragile plastic lever molded into the connector.  With any luck 'push' will be molded on it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the temp sensor is bad a new one should cost around $20 or so. (I just checked at Autozone)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note: taking them out could be tricky, and messy so you may not want to do that yourself.  You have to drain the engine coolant so when you remove the sensor coolant doesn't go all over the place. And you are going to need tools for that.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But at least you'll know, exactly how much the repair should cost. I doubt this would take a shop more then 35 to 40 minutes from start to finish, if even that.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, yeah, and I'm still waiting for you to tell me that the under engine air shroud is in place and that you've checked all the rubber seals and plastic and foam seals around the radiator and air conditioning condenser (in front of the radiator) and that nothing is blocking air flow.  Yes you will have to kneel on the ground and look with a flashlight.  It should take around 7 minutes max.  Do this with the engine off (for safety).  Remember we up against a $1200 repair bill so 7 minutes of work is a lot cheaper than that.  Add 15 minutes to test the temp sensor = 22 minutes of work to save you money and hassle later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge is power.  And on that note, if you decide to do nothing else, please do buy the service manual / book.  It's a great way to understand how your car works.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a long posting.  But hey, good thing I'm getting paid by the word count here. Awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T09:56:02.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T09:56:02.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:35:33.777" Score="10" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord. When I trigger the windshield wiper fluid onto the front windshield, the right sprayer works fine but the left one seems clogged and it sprays very minimally. Because of this, I cannot clean my windshield fully and it usually streaks. Is there any way to repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:35:53.487" Title="How would you repair a clogged windshield wiper sprayer?" Tags="|honda|accord|windshield-wipers|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-28T14:33:23.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28964" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:44:43.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High Pressure Air&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would disconnect the hose from that sprayer from the motor that gives it the pressure to spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go where there is high pressure air.  In my case that would be my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have an air gun with a rubber tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take that air gun with a rubber tip and push it tightly against the sprayer nozzle and use the high pressure air to blow the offending particle backwards through it's windshield wiper fluid delivery hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-attach hose to wiper fluid delivery pump and spray away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the air pressure blow gun with a rubber tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oDBX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oDBX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T00:44:43.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8520" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:11:29.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second answer here worked for my 2005 Kia Rio. Pop the bracket off by placing a screwdriver as shown and punch it with the palm of your hand. Punch towards the front of the car.  Thanks Rich Yahtzee!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16895" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:11:29.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29093" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:38:48.330" Score="7" ViewCount="10386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see this question asked after a search so I thought why not.  I have a 97 GMC Sonoma with 90k miles that I barely drive.  Since the hot summer is coming fast I went to use the AC and I am only blowing warm air from the defrost and floor vents.  After searching the site I did run across a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21495/hvac-blowing-out-of-defroster-and-floor&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; regarding the Sonoma's brother, the s10, that mentioned to test the vacuum lines.  I was curious to know if checking vacuum lines can be done by spraying a soapy solution with a spray bottle while the truck was running do the trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments, the doors were working intermittently at times when it would blow through the dash and cycle to only the defrost and floor.  First step from past experience I did examine the vacuum lines such as next the canister.  I did notice they appeared to by dry rotten so I went to O'reily's and purchased new vacuum lines for the location for the top right driver side where a T is located.  After replacing some of the vacuum lines the issue proceeded to be less then a month later completely went out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interest is trying to figure out where to test the vacuum lines properly.  Sometimes, as it could be a related issue, there is a bubbling noise coming from the passenger side dash which I believe may be the heater core but I am unable to determine if the heater core goes through the vacuum system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic of location:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RcIJa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RcIJa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per request, the controls are electrical.  Here is a pic of the controls.  I do plan this weekend to further test the system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2eFg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2eFg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that no matter what position the AC controls are in they will blow out through the defrost and floor vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:49:50.007" Title="How do I fix my Heater &amp; A/C in my car, suspect vacuum problem?" Tags="|ac|gmc|vacuum|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9172" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:40:18.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been an auto technician for 28 years. I am factory trained by several manufactures and am ASE certified and I own my own auto repair business. My professional advise is this: Your automotive air conditioning system is a sealed system just like your homes refrigerator.It should only be repaired if it malfunctions.Just I tell my own wonderful customers, &quot;save your money&quot;! If it's blowing nice and cold, there's not much that can be done.I have a 1994 Saturn, It's A/C blows 42 degrees and has never been serviced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16897" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:40:18.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-27T02:44:52.753" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Classic cars are significantly less safe than modern cars. In a classic car, it is both &lt;strong&gt;harder to avoid a crash&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;more likely that you will sustain serious or fatal injuries in the event of a crash&lt;/strong&gt;. It's the former point I'd like to emphasize in this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a classic car will not have features like ABS, traction control, or stability control. This means that it is significantly more difficult to maintain control of the vehicle under adverse conditions, making a crash much more likely to happen. Even if you're an experienced and very safe driver, conditions beyond your control, like a deer running across the road with limited visibility or an out-of-control vehicle veering into your path, can force you to make evasive maneuvers that are much more difficult to succeed on without these safety features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, as others have mentioned, modern vehicles are designed to absorb and divert crash forces away from occupants; classic cars are typically not designed to do this and will transfer much more of the impact to the driver and passengers. @JPhi1618's answer demonstrates this well so I will leave it at that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T02:44:52.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-27T03:55:24.090" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the event of an accident, how does a classic vehicle compare to a modern machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are safety features on new vehicles really a life saver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can anything be done to improve the safety of classic vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certainly safety improvements that can be made. You can fit better brakes and tyres. You can sometimes retrofit collapsible steering colums. You can fit better seat/restraint systems to better secure the occupants during a crash (it's geneally better in terms of peak decelleration experienced by your body during a crash to be tightly strapped in than to fly forward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can't really do much about is the behaviour of the body/chassis during a crash with a hard object. Modern cars are designed so that the area in front of the people crumples while the area the people are enclosed in remains solid reducing the peak decelleration experienced by the occupants and making sure they don't get crushed by the collapsing car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racing style roll cages work for racers who are securely belted and helmeted but are not a great idea for road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are classics safe enough to be used as a daily driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That really depends on your risk tolerance. People used to drive those cars all the time when they were new. Most of them survived but a significantly larger proportion than today got killed or seriously injured in accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastEditorUserId="12697" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T17:30:27.003" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T17:30:27.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:27:27.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to concern myself with being shocked while trying to change the battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12V is too low to present any significant electric shock hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest hazard when working on batteries is shorting the thing out. This leads to a massive release of energy which can lead to severe burns. Some precautions that can be taken to reduce the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have any metal rings (or other jewlery) either remove them or cover them with something insulating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the terminal that connects to the cars chassis (usually the negative) first and reconnect it last. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think about what tools you use. Try to avoid using any tool that could short the batter terminals if dropped in the wrong place. If all your tools are bare metal preffer a short tool over a long one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastEditorUserId="12697" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:58:21.910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:58:21.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28915" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:37:34.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Those are the remnants of gasoline&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you let gasoline evaporate it leaves behind various elements within the gas that can't dissipate through evaporation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These remnants can clog various galley's in your carburetor as well as clog jets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are soaking your carburetor you will still want to physically clean out the jets and use compressed air to ensure there is no buildup plugging the various circuits within the carburetor body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use thin copper wire strands to poke through jets.  Hold them up in the light and look through them to ensure you have removed any debris that may be blocking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, as @moab states in his comment, you will want to run the carburetor float bowl dry after use to prevent this from occurring again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T04:37:34.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29018" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:02:39.887" Score="7" ViewCount="1074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard someone mention they were considering &quot;mini-tubbing&quot; their restoration project car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you just &quot;tub&quot; a car, or can only &quot;mini tub&quot; one? Can you &quot;maxi tub&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16903" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:58:31.367" Title="What is the process of &quot;mini-tubbing&quot;?" Tags="|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28742" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:13:59.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar experience of the rear off side tyre disintegrating on the highway. The car was mainly used for short distance city travel only. First noticed a vibration from the rear of the car and by the time got to the shoulder to check the tyre was heated up and shredded. Maybe about half a km. I guess even a few rotations with the edge of the rim digging into the soft rubber can cause it to separate.&#xA;The other important thing is to check the manufacture date of the other tyres which is embossed on the side wall (maybe only on one side) It gives the week and year of manufacture. If more than 5 years better replace all as if it happens on the front it can be very dangerous due to loss of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T05:13:59.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:44:27.530" Score="4" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car began to lose speed and I immediately got to the side of the road.The car was losing power. I noticed smoke from the wheel while still in the car once I stopped. in reverse and drive the car wouldn't move in. Neutral the car wouldn't move even while attempting to push it from the back. The front wheels seem to be locked. Pedal high wait 10 mins he was fine pedal soft and drove fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stepdad who is an older man mechanic said buy both calipers but he only checked the left side the one that i seen smoking. The right side just today started screeching with or without the brake applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16905" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T06:23:06.530" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T03:08:03.513" Title="03 Honda Civic Serious Brake Caliper Question" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28922" CreationDate="2016-04-27T06:22:08.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've even been told that you have to get the alignment done when the&#xA;  tires are new so they will allow the wheels to sit evenly and that&#xA;  worn tires will invalidate the alignment process since the wheels&#xA;  would then be &quot;aligned&quot; to the wear pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not true; the tire wear pattern has no affect on the measurements or adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the wheels are resting on the ground (or the machine, whatever)&#xA;  wouldn't a very-unevenly-worn tire make the wheel crooked?&#xA;  is a real concern or is it a logical fallacy that the salesman is&#xA;  relying on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again not true. On an alignment machine the wheels sit on &quot;turn tables&quot;. These allow the wheels to freely move anywhere in ground plane. This negates the forces that a worn or misshapen tire might try to exert on the suspension members that support it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furthermore, is it really recommended that I get an alignment every&#xA;  time I get new tires? I've seen what a bad alignment can do to tires,&#xA;  so if the old ones are worn evenly, should I even bother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the old tires are evenly worn then there is no dire need to check the alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When to check wheel alignment.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) An incident has occurred that could move the alignment angles. Such as one or more wheels hitting an object with sufficient force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) A crash that has damaged the body or suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A part has been replaced that could change one or more suspension angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) A period of time has past during which the rubber parts of the suspension have relaxed with age allowing the suspension to sag and move. This process takes years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that tires are not specifically mentioned in the above list. #4 is best taken care of on about the same time interval as tire replacement. So this is reason enough to get an alignment done with new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T06:22:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28896" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:37:48.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the field coil connection connected? If not the alternator will not produce any output at all. The field coil supplies the magnetic field needed to induce current in the alternator coil winding. There are 2 connections on a alternator.&#xA;     &lt;strong&gt;B+ Output of regulator&#xA;       Field   Field coil connection&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;The ground is the casing of the alternator.&#xA;The plug for the connection is white with 2 wires, one black,one red. The plug is polarized if I remember correctly so it only goes one way. When you were driving your battery was powering everything.... Once the battery voltage drops below about 9-10V it will not engage the starter. If you keep driving the battery keeps draining past 7.5V everything related to the engine like the ECM starts shutting down. Even further the lights quit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:37:48.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-04-27T08:07:13.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the tools you use are exposed metal, wrap some tape around the handle to insulate it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After you've removed one battery cable, cover the exposed terminal. This prevents the cable end from contacting the terminal again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T08:07:13.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27708" CreationDate="2016-04-27T08:12:03.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;O2 sensors are interesting critters to diagnose. The ones at the upstream side of the Cats are the ones that send data to the ECM module continuously for keeping the air/fuel ratios optimum. The downstream O2 sensors for the most part do absolutely nothing throughout their service life. Their purpose is to monitor the condition of the Cats. If the Cats are defective the downstream O2 sensor detects O2 and a check engine light lights up. O2 sensors have heating elements in them that are activated by a relay. The elements are activated to ensure that the O2 sensor elements work properly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is sufficiently warm the heaters are deactivated. Maybe it the O2 sensor relay-you mention that voltage on all 4 O2 sensors went to 0 ......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just had a another thought on the rough idle and stalling: Possible EVAP system issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T08:12:03.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-04-27T08:47:29.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When disconnecting a battery always remove the negative terminal first&lt;/strong&gt;. This breaks the circuit and neutralizes the possibility of a short circuit. &lt;strong&gt;When reconnecting the battery always connect positive terminal first.&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Never underestimate 12 volts : Under normal conditions the outer skin resistance is high enough not be an issue. However if you have open cuts the resistance of the exposed flesh underneath is highly conductive and could result in serious injury even with 12 volts. Gloves and safety glasses are a good idea when exposed to sulfuric acid and lead exposure from the battery terminals.&#xA;FYI:The car body is connected to the negative terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T08:53:27.437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T08:53:27.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2016-04-27T09:01:17.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Jonathan Musso's answer - Do your homework. For most older cars, rust patterns are well known, so a bit of time spent perusing owner's club forums etc will enable you to get a good list of places to check for rot (for example, for a Series Land Rover, it's the bulkhead and the chassis outriggers). You'll also be able to get a list of other things to check, such as the mechanical state of the car - many cars will have a particular thing where the marque experts will say &quot;this might only sound like a little rattle, but beware, it's really difficult/expensive to fix, walk away unless you know what you're doing&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've looked at a few, you'll also get to know the obvious places, such as rear wheelarches, where mud and spray from the road accumulate and trap moisture against the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly you'll be looking underneath the car, so take something to lie on (an old coat for example), and a torch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T09:01:17.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28947" CreationDate="2016-04-27T09:13:11.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect this will get closed soon as 'too localised' and 'shopping'...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any such courses, but I'd suggest getting in touch with a local community/sixth form college - find one that offers a car mechanics course/BTEC etc and talk to the teacher in charge of that course - they might be able to arrange something or put you in touch with someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, talk to local car clubs or motor clubs and see if they can suggest anything. Most are populated with enthusiasts, so they may well be happy to impart some wisdom if you appear keen and genuine to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a decent basic toolkit with you, don't expect there to be anything in the car. As Zipzit says, read the hire agreement too, you don't want to get stung  for breach of contract...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T09:13:11.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-27T09:40:18.780" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you're asking different questions so I will address them separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Classic cars are safe to drive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic cars are simply older cars. They were driven successful by people of the time who didn't die in them and nothing has fundamentally altered the safety of the car since that time provided they have been properly maintained. If you drive a classic in the same way as you drive a modern car in daily use you still have a low lifetime chance of dying or injury. As always, you can decrease - but not eliminate - your risk by sensible, defensive, driving techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern cars are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; safer to drive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this graph showing deaths per 100,000 people in the US (black line, right axis) and note the dramatic fall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0lGq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0lGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deaths on the road&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then consider that this has come despite a large rise in the number of miles driven per person and the number of cars on the road. The major contributing factor to this is the many improvements to car safety: better brakes, crumple zones, air bags, anti-lock braking systems, lane warnings and so forth. So although classic cars are safe to drive, they are much less so than modern cars; it is - as always - up to you to assess the relative value that you put on the pleasure of driving a classic and the higher risk to your physical safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16907" LastEditorUserId="16907" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T08:31:50.657" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T08:31:50.657" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28964" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:27:25.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to repair these jets (and re-align them) by using a dress pin pushed down the nozzle.  Typically either dirt or polish (depending on how you maintain your car) accumulates at the exit point of the nozzle and a pin is enough to clear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T10:27:25.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28904" CreationDate="2016-04-27T11:26:48.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building off of JPhi's answer, a few tire options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180/55R15 - same width, 1.7% smaller diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;180/60R15 - same width, 1.3% larger diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;185/55R15 - wider, 0.9% smaller diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;190/55R15 - wider, exact same diameter&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tiresize.com/calculator/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these sizes may be more common than others.  All of these sizes exist theoretically, but if it is not a common size, it is unlikely you will be able to find it anywhere, or you will have limited options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:26:48.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28964" CreationDate="2016-04-27T11:35:53.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many manufacturers will recommend insertion of a pin to unclog a windshield sprayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't always work but is definitely worth trying before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:35:53.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-27T11:36:34.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can anything be done to improve the safety of classic vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can attach &amp;amp; use safety equipment like a racing seat &amp;amp; harness, helmet, even a roll cage: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejp5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejp5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/additional-tech/1309-racing-safety-equipment/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racing Safety Equipment&lt;/a&gt; has lots of info, including a warning about roll cages and &lt;strong&gt;helmets&lt;/strong&gt; (especially when putting steel bars near your head):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;An accident involving a roll cage and a driver without a helmet will never end well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cuscousainc.com/products/roll-cage.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cuscousainc.com/products/roll-cage.html&lt;/a&gt;) sells roll cages (apparently pre-fabricated) for several models, including it looks like 5 passenger vehicles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R49m2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R49m2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are classics safe enough to be used as a daily driver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive a short distance at low speeds on generally safe streets, and look both ways before crossing a street (even when you have a green light), then you're &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;safe enough&lt;/em&gt;.  Compared to a bicycle / motorbike, almost anything that puts a door between you and other vehicles is probably an improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may depend more on your idea of &quot;safe enough.&quot; I've read that the &lt;em&gt;European&lt;/em&gt; idea of a safe car is one that's fast and nimble enough to avoid an accident, while the &lt;em&gt;American&lt;/em&gt; idea is to wrap yourself in as much steel &amp;amp; mass as possible, and let the laws of physics do their job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:36:34.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28913" CreationDate="2016-04-27T11:41:53.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 94 Acura Integra (should be the same on most Hondas of the time) has a Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) and an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV).  The FITV has coolant flowing through it and opens/closes an air valve based on coolant temperature.  It is completely mechanical. As the name implies, the FITV sets the high idle when the engine is cold, similar to the choke on carbureted vehicles.  The IACV could handle the job of the FITV, so it is redundant to have both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a hot intake allows fuel to vaporize better, which allows fuel to burn more efficiently.  Most intakes have coolant running through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:41:53.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28999" CreationDate="2016-04-27T12:14:51.377" Score="2" ViewCount="3328" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 days ago when I would crank up my 1996 Explorer and cut the lights on my dash lights and AC lights would flicker then come on, well this morning when I cut on my vehicle the lights did not come on, no flicker, just nothing!  Now when I say lights, I mean the light that illuminates the speedometer and gas gauge, and the lights that illuminate the AC Controls.  The &quot;warning&quot; lights as I will call them still come on, such as gas light, air bag light etc when the car is cranked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to to do to get those lights to come on, so I can see how fast I am driving while dark out ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16909" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:26:23.710" Title="Interior Dash Lights &amp; AC Control Lights Are Out" Tags="|ford|fuse|explorer|lights|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28993" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:16:10.033" Score="3" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at two different conversion vans.  The first is a 99 with 40k miles and the second a 89 with 20k miles. Both vehicles check out on Carfax. The 99 is a Dodge Ram and the other is a 89 is a Ford Econoline. I like the looks of the 89 much better, and it's been garage kept so the paint is like new but not so much for the 99. My question is, what factor is more important? the age, or the mileage of of the vehicle (all other things being equal ..).      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15494" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:54:41.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T07:24:58.720" Title="What is more important the age or the mileage of a vehicle" Tags="|wear|van|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T15:54:04.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28992" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:22:17.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're asking specifically about a conversion van, and the mileage on both is relatively low, I'd say in this case age is going to be the most important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are not enough miles on either van to cause any significant mechanical issues.  Age on the other hand will &quot;wear out&quot; rubber components, electronics, and most importantly for a van it will have an affect on the interior.  Cushioning will break down, there are 10 more years for moisture to be an issue or bugs, or mold, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it really comes down to inspecting each carefully.  Pay attention to the rubber on the 89 and the interior.  Just because they tried to keep it pristine, there are just some things you can stop from deteriorating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:22:17.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28992" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:39:24.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I base my decisions on several factors when purchasing used vehicles.  I research the history of the vehicle to see if at any mileage interval the vehicle has reported issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue would be if you can even get parts at the parts store or would you have to go to a junk yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, what are the insurance premiums on either vehicle based on the mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you look at it the answers you will get will be personal preference.  There are however other factors to keep in mind that you do not mention such as body.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is more important the age or the mileage of a vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on what the research for the vehicle determines.  Some vehicles at certain mileage intervals may have reported mechanical issues.  If the vehicle was garage kept the chances of rust should be slimmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:39:24.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28992" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:54:45.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never known all other things be equal in two vehicles of such disparate ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such cases I'd normally look at secondary matters like the features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they both have ABS/disc brakes all round.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is one of them a better spec than the other. &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What is the fuel consumption of each vehicle. &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do they both have full airbags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll almost certainly be better off with the more modern vehicle unless you're a real fan of the older one. Most vehicles were still quite primitive in '89.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the things that's more considered in Europe than the US but there are a few reasons not to buy a vehicle from before the 90s.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Leaded fuel:&lt;/strong&gt; This was not actually phased out until 1992 for new vehicles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Emissions regulations:&lt;/strong&gt; Especially as this is a van, you wouldn't be allowed to take it into a lot of cities. To put that in context, standard is currently the Euro5 diesel engine, by 2020 this will not be allowed into some low emissions zones.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Safety:&lt;/strong&gt; ABS has been required since 2007 but was standard on most vehicles since about the mid-90s. Airbags were also introduced as standard sometime in the mid to late 90s. Side impact protection is later but also standard on all modern vehicles. General impact protect also massively improved in this period.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Security:&lt;/strong&gt; If you lost your key to a car from before the mid-90s you could walk into a dealership and ask for a new one which they'd give you off the shelf. If you had a Vauxhall (Opel) Cavalier, it didn't matter, any key for that model would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15356" LastEditorUserId="15356" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T07:24:58.720" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T07:24:58.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:51:13.647" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cranking, the engine turns and there is a spark....not strong.  I can't find the timing mark through the circulled(rubber) hole, but the arrow shows on the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I freely turn (by hand) the pulley?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely STIFF, the fan is slipping.  I think I must have messed around with the timing totally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New breaker points and distributor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advice ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16913" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T17:07:17.877" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T22:07:54.333" Title="Rover Mini Mayfair Auto 1990/H" Tags="|ignition|timing|distributor|rover|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28920" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:11:12.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are most likely experiencing is the pull from tires when breaking on uneven surface or road with grooves from heavy vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have rather wide, sticky, square tires, this is what it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how water stands in sort of lines, that's where the grooves are formed from vehicles. Depending on if you are closer to the right side of the grooves or left side, your direction of pull will be different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boZxr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boZxr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastEditorUserId="16836" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T17:25:55.687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:25:55.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28991" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:26:23.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 possible causes I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dimmer switch had been turned all the way down or the dimmer part of the switch is bad. You can still turn on the dome light even when the dimmer part is inoperative.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuse for instrument Cluster is bad, I think it is Fuse #15 (7.5amp) on that model. Interior fuse panel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:26:23.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29003" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:34:59.490" Score="0" ViewCount="3264" Body="&lt;p&gt;As physics suggests it's more convenient, and thus less energy consuming, to pull a load than to push it. Having said that in a similar situation when two cars are the same in terms of weight, engine, etc. Do cars with Rear-Wheel Drive consume more fuel than cars that are Front-Wheel Drive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Some RWD cars are rear engined as well in this situation, I presume, the position of engine does not affect fuel consumption (as long as the weight and HP and other factors are the same.) If the position of engine does make a difference please explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14127" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:54:26.330" Title="Do Front-Wheel Drive cars consume less fuel than Rear-Wheel Drive cars?" Tags="|engine|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T22:58:46.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29000" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:46:07.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine Position does play a part but its not what you think, RWD cars have the power transmitted to the rear wheels and has to make a 90 degree turn in the differential, resulting some power loss (fuel efficiency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWD cars beat this by turning the engine sideways, now the axles turn parallel to the engine, no redirection of power is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net result of designing FWD cars is they can be engineered to be smaller and lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its hard to compare fuel mileage FWD vs RWD because there may be to many other differences that come into play, but I can safely say all things being equal FWD is more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:46:07.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:14:43.677" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 ford taurus se. When i start my car up there is a raddle. On a scale from 1-10 the raddle is a 6 deep but not alarming. Well as soon as I start my vehicle the raddle quiets. Has anyone ran into this problem? Or may have a solution please comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16916" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:14:43.677" Title="2004 ford taurus motor knocking when car starting" Tags="|ford|noise|taurus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29000" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:17:23.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Physics suggests that its easier to pull vs push, but based on specific conditions and assumptions. Depends on the vector of the external force of the push / pull and where and how it acts on an object.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe in a motorized wheeled vehicle, its not nearly as significant, especially since the rotational torques are being transferred to the ground at around ground level with mostly tangential forces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming we are comparing as much apples-to-apples as possible (same weight, power, etc.)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will play a significant part in this will be the engine/drivetrain layout.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anytime you have gears, coupling, or joints, you will likely be losing efficiency.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A Front Engine FWD car will have a transaxle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A Rear Engine RWD car will have a transaxle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A Front Engine RWD car will have a transmission, driveshaft, differential, and axles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engines laid out on the same side as the driven axle can reduce the number of couplings and joints like the driveshaft+universal joint and will use a transaxle which is basically a transmission and differential in one. This reduction helps eliminates some of the potential mechanical waste and makes it more efficient.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Manual vs automatic transmission matters as well as the specific design and how each is operated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;AWD or 4x4 drivetrain layout inherently suffers even more mechanical losses due to the extra transfer case/differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the mechanical losses in the powertrain, losses to efficiency will occur from not being able to put power to the ground = tire slip.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again, cars with engines laid out on the same side as the driven axle will potentially benefit more because having the engine on top of the driven axle results in more weight on those axles, which means increased potential grip for those tires, effectively reducing the chances of tire slip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the engine on the same side as the driven axle can increase gas efficiency and help increase grip to those wheels under &quot;normal&quot; circumstances but it also biases a lot of weight onto one side of the car. In more dynamic situations closer to the extreme limits of the car's ability to perform, having too much weight on one side can drastically affect the car's behavior (whether considered safer (for streets) or not depends on the behavior and perspective). On the streets, it won't matter nearly as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T18:54:26.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:54:26.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:23:56.263" Score="14" ViewCount="125393" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the course of helping my friend sort out a lean condition with his Mercedes GLK280 we have to pinpoint the source of a vacuum leak in the intake plumbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interwebz tend to recommend having the car taken to a mechanic so that they can perform a smoke test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of anyone in my city who owns a smoke machine, individuals or garages alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely, there must be alternative means to determine the exact source of a vacuum leak? I'm open to all suggestions that are readily available to a home mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T20:28:40.827" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T07:56:02.933" Title="How can I detect vacuum leaks without access to a smoke machine?" Tags="|diagnostics|vacuum|smoke|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:51:00.347" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people have stated listening for a vacuum leak noise and if located within a vicinity disconnect and add a new line of the same diameter and get a cigar and blow smoke from the cigar in the line.  After blowing smoke in the new line cork the end and look around to see if any smoke is coming through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't smoke you could always look into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00K572J8O&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;food smoker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wy5Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wy5Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:51:00.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28996" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:55:12.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can turn the crankshaft via its pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is probably easier. If you want to turn the crankshaft by hand you can use a socket with a long handle / breaker bar on it to &quot;Tighten&quot; the bolt on the end of the engine crankshaft. Usually that bolt holds the harmonic dampener.  Be careful here as if the crankshaft gets stiff you might exceed install torque for that bolt. Go SLOW.  When you go slow, a bit of the compression will leak around the piston rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget you will be fighting cylinder compression when you do this, so go slow.  If you need to do this on a repeated basis, you could remove the spark plugs, the force will got to nearly nothing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:55:12.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:13:41.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly, there is an issue with heat rejection when the car is stationary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several possibilities that could be contributing to this. Here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lack of air flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fan that doesn't turn on when it should is the obvious go-to reason. Run the car up to temperature at idle with the AC running to replicate the overheating scenario and make sure that the fan(s) is/are running by seeing/hearing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it runs, I would want to rule out a fan relay that stops working when hot. If that checks out OK, I'd say that the fan is doing what it's supposed to do and the problem lies elsewhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lack of coolant flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your water pump is new and the radiator is slightly old. It may be that you have a collapsed radiator hose that is restricting coolant flow. A clogged radiator is also possible, but not probable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:13:41.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:20:50.797" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are several methods to detect vacuum leaks of unmetered air into the fuel delivery system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method is to use soapy water in a spray gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue here is how are you going to detect a vacuum leak and how do you know you've found it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a vacuum leak in this context related to a fuel delivery system?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmetered air in a fuel system is considered to be between the butterfly in a throttle body or a carburetor and the cylinder head.  The components involved are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Throttle body or carburetor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gasket between the throttle body and carburetor and the intake manifold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake manifold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake manifold gasket between the intake manifold and the cylinder head&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum lines to operate various components that require vacuum such as the brake booster&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty big list and finding an efficient method to test all of the joining points plus the accessories that may require a vacuum can be daunting.  Efficiency in troubleshooting this issue is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms of a Vacuum Leak&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High Idle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rough Idle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High Idle dropping rapidly to a stall&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stalling without driver intervention.  (Difficulty Idling)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issues with Air/Vacuum Leaks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmetered air in a fuel system adds oxygen to the mix.  This changes the air fuel ratio the components are trying to control after the control mechanism, the throttle body or carburetor.  The additional oxygen changes the air fuel ratio making the car run poorly.  The damage that unmetered air can do to the overall system includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased combustion temperature due to more oxygen&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increased temperature of an exhaust valve due to more oxygen&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Burned valves due to overheating&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In rare cases, points in the combustion chamber and piston that become molten during high temperatures leading to complete failure of the engine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soapy Water Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Soapy Water Test has you putting water in a spray gun with a bit of soap on areas of the intake system that are suspected air leak points.  You may need to occasionally rev the motor a bit to keep it idling or increase the idle RPM while troubleshooting to prevent stalling if that is one of the problems you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you spray the soapy water on suspect points the idle with flatten out and become normal as the soapy water blocks the air leak or crack temporarily.  Continued spraying on the suspect points to temporarily block the unmetered air will ultimately reveal the culprit of the air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the failing component or vacuum leak is discovered you would fix it accordingly and then repeat the tests to ensure success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools Necessary to Complete Troubleshooting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dish Soap&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=water%20sparyer%20handheld&amp;amp;oq=water%20sparyer%20handheld&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.6552j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=water%20spray%20bottle&quot;&gt;Water Spraying Bottle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:20:50.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:48:51.893" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tool overlooked here is an ultrasonic leak detector.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work by listening to the noise of a leak.   Obviously they would be better used in a totally quiet environment, but it's a possibility.  I've used them to determine automotive refrigerant leaks, and for water leaks from outside to inside the passenger compartment of a car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For vacuum, dunno how well they'd work, but it may be worth a shot. Basically you hold a microphone device to suspect areas and the system listens for the &quot;micro&quot; noise (like escaping air)  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://superiorsignal.com/resources/useful-articles/104-successful-leak-detection-using-ultrasonics&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the body water leak issue, we used a ultrasonic sound source inside the car, closed all the windows and doors and checked the entire car for sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously that isn't optimal for engine vacuum, but you get the idea.  In the alternative you could hook up a vacuum source to the intake manifold with the car totally off and then do a totally safe and sane vacuum leak test.  (I still shudder when I thing about getting my hand caught in an alternator cooling fan on a vehicle I was working on.. Thwack!)  Please be careful out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:48:51.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29061" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:57:54.210" Score="7" ViewCount="6910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car dash cam on my car and I think it does not really integrate well to the car.  It blocks some of the view and may attract thieves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any car that as an integrated dashcam from the factory? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How/where could I integrate a traditional dash cam into my car in such a way that it looks like an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T22:59:16.207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:33:26.530" Title="Is there any car that comes from factory with a integrated dashcam?" Tags="|diy|oem|dashcam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:12:21.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other way to look at this, sort of from a different direction. As I get older I really like being able to do more with less and do so safely. I think its sometimes awesome that an old guy with barely any tools can out perform the young guys with an expensive tool box. (And yeah, I used to have many of those tools... now I'm trying to downsize a bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to design vacuum parts for Detroit based OEM. My take was it was much easier to just do a really good physical inspection on all the parts involved then it was trying to use fancy tools to find the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And because you can do the inspection with the vehicle off, its much safer.  You need to physically look at each and every vacuum component in the entire system from engine back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where every there was a soft joint in the vacuum system you verify that the rubber is soft and pliable and that the connection is solid.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will say the rigid nylon vacuum lines rarely have issues.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One problem area to inspect is the brake booster, because the vacuum stuff is hidden.  Best test there is to use a portable hand held pump and test that independently (again with engine off.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And then there are the Heating Ventilation Air conditioning (HVAC) automotive systems from Mid 1970's till 2000 or so. Those are definitely different beasts, but generally a hand held pump would go a long way for troubleshooting those parts.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there was one part that always made me laugh. One part I was responsible for was a vacuum reservoir. What was funny was that the bigger it was the less it held.  (Yeah, I know, it sucks.  Stupid engineer joke. ha!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:12:21.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29015" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:17:48.053" Score="7" ViewCount="3492" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the preferred, non-chemical/non-additive method for removing oil sludge from an engine that's still installed in the vehicle?  I'll have the head and oil pan removed.  How do I clean out the oil galleries and other passages in the block without damaging the surface finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16919" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T03:11:59.277" Title="How do I remove oil sludge from an installed engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:21:37.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;@DucatiKiller gives a very good assessment of how to look for leaks. Using these same efforts, you can also use gas from a propane torch around the same areas described. When the gas finds a vacuum leak, you'll find a definite change in engine RPM due to the fuel which is found. Mind you, you are opening the valve and using the gas itself, unlit. You don't even have to use enough, as the vacuum will find the gas and make it known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, along the lines of what @DucatiKiller is stating ... you don't even have to use soapy water, just water in a spray bottle. This may actually be a better alternative because plain old water does not leave a soapy residue behind when it dries. Also, you can test the same area several times. When the water dries out, it goes back to the way it was running, then throw another dose onto the affected area to recheck your findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:21:37.057" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29013" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:26:26.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of elbow grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, if you don't want to use chemicals, you are stuck with using cleaning utensils like putty knife, toothbrush, rags, and whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, there really isn't a problem with running the engine with a can of SeaFoam (or the like) in it for a period of time (under 100 miles), then dumping it out with the oil. Most of the sludge would be removed in one fell swoop. Then when you have the heads and oil pan off, inspect and clean as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:26:26.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28967" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:33:48.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;with the car running, use an aerosol can of carb cleaner with the straw in it to spray around the vacuum lines and fittings. When you get to the leak point you will hear the rpm change. move slowly and use spurts.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:33:48.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28967" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:36:29.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heck yeah!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer:  Replace the check valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:  There is a check valve between the vacuum reservoir and the rest of the system. What that does is help the vacuum reservoir hold more vacuum.  Your engine won't have enough vacuum &quot;force&quot; to move the heating ventilation doors without the reservoir. The check valve is that little black and white thing about 9&quot; below the round ball vacuum reservoir.  It allows air to move in one direction but not the other.  One thing to note:  When the parts are in good working order, and with the engine shut off you should be able to change HVAC modes two or three times using the residual vacuum in the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's more in play here. The &quot;warm air&quot; comment throws me.  I'd like to see a photo of the controls on the inside of the car.  I believe that on that vehicle vacuum is only used for the recirculation door and for the mode doors inside the heating / ventilation / air conditioning (HVAC) system.  I thought that car uses a metal cable to control temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you describe exactly what is happening inside the car?  When you move the temperature lever from left to right (engine off)  rapidly do you hear a thump thump noise at both ends of travel?  If not that's bad.  So here's how that works.  Your engine flows hot coolant to the heater core all the time winter and summer.  They use a small plastic door to control air flow thru that heater core to control the temperature of the output air.  In the winter you want all the air to flow thru that heater core.  In the summer you want no air to flow thru that heater core.  Remember in your vehicle ALL the air always flows thru the air conditioning evaporator core.  If you want cold air conditioning its critical that the heater vent door stays closed. Hot air will totally negate any air conditioning cooling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there were some cars that had a vacuum controlled temperature doors but I don't think your was one of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to see a photo of your HVAC controls and the results of the full heat / full cold temperature lever thump thump test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T20:53:19.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:53:19.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28975" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:58:31.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Hot Rod magazine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mini-tubbing is the act of widening a car's rear wheelwells, moving the inner halves inboard to the location of the stock frame-rails to achieve maximum tire clearance without major frame hacking. It's a mod that dates back to the early '60s and has mostly been used for drag racing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-0903-diy-mini-tubbing-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-0903-diy-mini-tubbing-guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16919" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T20:58:31.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:12:34.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a stick of burning incense.  Cheap and simple!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:12:34.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:46:55.370" Score="10" ViewCount="4691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that has a 2003 F150 V8 3 valve V8 motor, when he went to change the spark plugs some of them broke off. How do you remove the part that is still in the head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcUz4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcUz4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what a new one looks like, so that extended part is stuck in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2Cgv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2Cgv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:13:55.973" Title="Ford F150 broken spark plug removal" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29051" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:50:24.000" Score="8" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like a towbar for my 2003 Opel Agila (I am not joking!) and I have seen an Opel Agila advertised at a nearby scrapyard with a towbar. The towbar was an optional factory extra according to the service manual from 2003. I can legally tow with it as towing weights are listed in the Manual, and online in many places. I was considering a new eBay DIY kit, but I am worried that they are firstly poor quality, and apparently the instructions are crap, and I do not want to fit it wrong for obvious reasons!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think removing the towbar myself would be a good idea as then I can see how it is fitted back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any (mainly safety) problems with using a second hand towbar and mountings from an identical donor car (2003 Opel Agila) from the local Scrapyard/Breakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Because almost every single one of my recent questions seems to have a British/American English language problem, this is a towbar!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WoyoY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WoyoY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would preferably not want to buy one online unless there is no other choice, as I want to check the quality, and I have had several bad experience with online car parts from eBay and Amazon that either do not fit or work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T09:10:42.340" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T09:10:42.340" Title="Can I salvage a towbar from an identical donor car?" Tags="|vauxhall|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:23:10.383" Score="6" ViewCount="2185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Lincoln Continental. It has 124k miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history of the transmission maintenance are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluid and filter was changed at 29k miles&#xA;Fluid was flushed at 86k miles&#xA;Fluid was changed at 115k miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All with Mercon V Motorcraft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All old fluid was in normal red color shape. Not brown, black, or burnt odors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 122k, I started experiencing delayed engagement from park to drive during cold weather starts. Letting engine idle for about 7 minutes stopped this from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;123k, while on hwy, &quot;check transmission&quot; warning light popped up. But vehicle drove normally. After I exited hwy, I went to autozone and had them pull malfunction code. It was p1744. TCC Stuck in Off. They reset code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next day, had pan dropped. Filter changed. Fluid changed again. &#xA;Magnet had average wear. No abnormal stuff in pan, on filter, or on magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drove car for 14 days and on hwy, on several occasions. Warning never popped up during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;124k, while on hwy. &quot;check transmission&quot; warning light popped up again. Got off hwy. Had code reset. Got back on hwy. Warning returned again. 200 mile trip. After I exited fwy, vehicle was shifting a little rough. Car temp gage did not overheat. No fluid leakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulled code. Same p1744. Checked fluid. Fluid was red like new fluid. No burnt smell. Fluid level was checked in park and right after I exited hwy. It was in hatched area like manual suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drove home later that day with same warning lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked transmission (solenoid valves/temp) connector that is on top of transmission. Inside pins, it was full of tranny fluid. Cleaned it out with electrical cleaner. Added di-electrcal grease to connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started car. Ran normal. Shifted into drive or reverse, the rpm fluctuated consistently from normal idle to halfway below idle. It does this for about 3 or 4 mins. Sometimes longer. Other times it stall engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I just accelerate pass the normal idle RPM, it drives normal. However, once I come to a stop and it goes down to normal idle, it does the whole up/down/up/down/up/down idling fluctuation, consistently from normal idle to 1/2 way below normal. It never goes about normal idle and it never goes below hallway normal idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took vehicle to first repair shop I saw. They said it was Idle Control Motor. I told them that car idles fine in park and neutral. They claimed that if it didn't fix problem, they will refund money. They replaced idle motor. It did same thing in drive and reverse. I made them remove their idle motor and replace my old idle motor. They did and returned my money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I went to autozone and disconnected transmission (solenoid valves/temp) connector that is on top of transmission. It had atrace of tranny fluid in there. But you would have to look close to actually see it. I started car. it idled normally. I shifted it into reverse and drive, Codes p0755, p0743, and p0750. I had a autozone guy pull the codes. Those codes were expected since I disconnected transmission harness connection. I shifted into drive and reverse. It shifted normally into those gears and idle was normal. Codes were erased. I then turned off car and reconnected transmission connector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I restarted car. Put in drive and reverse. It did the same up/down/up/down rpm fluctuation. I drove car home. It drove normally. But does the same thing when at a stand still while in reverse and drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque Convertor Clutch? TCC solenoid? Anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair places keep saying idle speed motor. But that was already checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16925" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T22:33:08.370" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T13:28:26.037" Title="1998 lincoln continental with fluctuating idle when put in gear only (drive/reverse)" Tags="|automatic-transmission|lincoln|continental|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:26:24.117" Score="1" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Volkswagen Passat I'm trying to figure out if my rotors needs to be changed out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16926" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T22:36:20.170" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:59:25.463" Title="Trying to figure out if my rotors are bad?" Tags="|brakes|vw|brake-rotor|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-04-28T07:24:17.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29023" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:29:23.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford uses idle strategy in their software, to reset this disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, connect back and start the car in park, do not touch anything but the key when starting, let idle for 20 minutes on its own and do not touch brake pedal or anything else during this idle re-learn period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not work or works for a short while, your throttle body and IAC (air idle control valve) needs cleaning, clean them thoroughly with approved throttle body cleaner (parts store) and reset idle strategy again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum leaks can cause problems with idle strategy also, you might check for those before a re-learn procedure. But what you describe is a classic symptom of a dirty throttle body and IAC valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:29:23.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29021" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:41:42.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this all the time unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need this tool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUzni.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUzni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LIS65600&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need a long 8mm drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need something to knock the porcelain that's stuck in the ground strap out. Most of the time when the plug breaks like that you have to chip away at it with a long punch and use compressed air to blow it out of the plug well or long needle nose pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the porcelain is out you need to tap the group strap with a 9mmx1.0 tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it's time to use the tool. This is basically a puller. You insert the tube into the plug well and then thread the pulling tool into the ground strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you tighten the top nut by hand and the ground strap comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to install the new plugs coat the ground strap with silver anti-sieze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on which plug broke this can take anywhere from a few minutes to hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ford TSB.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phila.gov/fleet/Warranty%20Recalls/tsb08-07-06%20FORD.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.phila.gov/fleet/Warranty%20Recalls/tsb08-07-06%20FORD.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:41:42.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:58:19.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've blown three on my 99 Tacoma.  A tech told me my Verizon charger was the culprit, as its ground contacts on the side are &quot;longer than most.&quot;  Everyone I've heard of with this problem is using a Verizon charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:58:19.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:13:32.253" Score="8" ViewCount="27196" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does manually hand-testing shock absorbers have any validity for checking if a shock is good or bad?&lt;/strong&gt;  Does hand-priming shock absorbers help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually hand-prime shock absorbers that I feel are acting inconsistently or behaving not as it should. Usually they are shocks that have been sitting on the shelf for a long time, usually sideways, so it causes issues with the fluids in the shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock manufacturer I contacted states that it does not have any validity as to the status of the shock, nor does it help the shock in any way (i.e. for &quot;priming&quot; before installation) due to the forces it sees (or doesnt see) when hand-priming.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically was told that the only way to see if a shock is good or bad is to check for any leaks or to install the shocks on the vehicle and check for noise during operation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see installers have videos showing how to manually cycle or prime the shock absorbers before installation. I assume this means that they can see a benefit of some kind.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also lots of people on forums and whatnot have posted about priming the shocks and reasons as to why and how it helps the shock absorber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Experiences:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally tried hand-priming shocks absorbers and: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noticed significant changes to behavior in my hand-tests among most of the shocks I hand-primed. Most of the time, they become much more firm and consistent.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal or no changes in ones I suspect were faulty. They had &quot;dead zones&quot; and behaved inconsistently before installation and even after riding on them for a while.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; I take off a pair of shocks that are the same product/model from a vehicle that has been riding on them for a while and hand-test them. The 1st is extremely firm and very consistent/smooth while the 2nd doesn't provide nearly as much resistance, is very inconsistent, is not smooth (has dead-zones).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ignoring how it performed on the vehicle for this example, &lt;strong&gt;does the hand-test have any validity here?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that hand-testing is not nearly as effective as a test on the vehicle or a shock dyno. But that is not what I am asking. I am only asking about the validity of hand-tests on its own merits, and not about hand-tests in relation to other tests or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to edit my question to make it better or make suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastEditorUserId="4212" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:27:50.113" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:47:51.770" Title="Hand-testing Shock Absorbers" Tags="|shock-absorber|testing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:23:47.170" Score="14" ViewCount="9142" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are driving and stop at a light, do the pistons still move up and down due to combustion? If not how will the engine know when to combust the fuel to keep it moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16945" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T15:04:26.810" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:03:24.160" Title="Do pistons keep moving when the car stops?" Tags="|engine|piston|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29024" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:36:49.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive the vehicle and do both light braking from 25mph then hard braking from 55mph, if the brake pedal pulses up and down or the steering wheel shakes or vibrates, then you have at least one warped rotor. If stops are smooth and relatively noise free then go to #2 below.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the rotors and do a visual inspection, look for cracks (even small ones) and grooves, the rotor face should be smooth and flat. If there are cracks discard it. If there are small grooves or slight warping you can take them to a automotive machine shop or parts store and have them measured and resurfaced on a brake rotor machine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skip 1 and 2, just pull rotors off and take them to a professional with a brake machine, they can measure them for minimum thickness with a rotor micrometer, then spin them on the brake lathe to check for warp, then they can advise you if they are serviceable or not. &lt;strong&gt;*1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brake rotors are disposable, these are usually non vented (solid) rotors, they should Not be resurfaced and put back in service, if they are not warped or cracked and only have superficial grooves, you can just do what is call a pad slap.&lt;strong&gt;*2&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*1 Not everyone that has a brake lathe or operates one is competent in measuring or making the decision on safe serviceability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*2 Pad slap means just replace the brake pads and light sand the rotor surfaces to break the glaze. Pad slap method applies to vented rotors also..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfsFo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfsFo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, I personally do not re-use any rotors on passenger cars or light trucks, they are too cheap here in the USA to mess with machining them, and depending on who machines them (&lt;strong&gt;*1&lt;/strong&gt;) what the results will be on your brake job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T23:59:25.463" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:59:25.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:56:34.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cars, yes the engine continues to rotate and the pistons go up and down in the cylinder bore due to combustion and the engine continuing to run. Some vehicles have an &quot;auto stop&quot; feature which kills the engine when it's not needed, but that's usually after several seconds of sitting still, as long as other parameters are met as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most vehicles today have a tachometer. This is usually one of the two large gauges in the dash. The other tells vehicle speed. If you look at it when stopped, you'll notice the needle will most likely be pointing at ~600 rpm, meaning the engine is still rotating ~600 rpm even when the vehicle is stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle you ride in must be one smooth running vehicle, as most vehicles have at least enough vibration to easily tell the engine is running. Good on yah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:56:34.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:24:48.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a vacuum leak, it will be sucking in air, and you'll probably be able to hear it. With the rest of the engine making noise, using something to pinpoint the sound would help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a piece of rubber hose and hold one end up against your ear, moving the other end around the engine listening for the hissing/sucking sound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of like using a doctor's stethoscope or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002SQYSM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mechanic's stethoscope&lt;/a&gt; if you could take off the &quot;end&quot; piece and just have an open hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two mechanics have decent YouTube videos on finding vacuum leaks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoZamqAArME&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finding an automotive vacuum leak - different techniques&lt;/a&gt; - Use a party/halloween smoke machine, listen for it, your finger to plug the hole, flammable liquid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy&lt;/a&gt; - Use a little Propane torch (unlit) &amp;amp; rubber hose (like Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2's answer), or carb cleaner - keep a fire extinguisher handy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T01:47:18.070" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T01:47:18.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28977" CreationDate="2016-04-28T02:47:17.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three common ways for disc brakes to stick, and what you were experiencing is definitely symptomatic of stuck brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The caliper slides might be rusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The piston in the caliper is getting crooked in the bore and not retracting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake hose has collapsed internally and is not releasing pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to inspect is the pins, but stuck pins usually just lead to uneven or crooked wear on brake pads. Still if the caliper frame does not slide on the pins they should be replaced (provided they are replaceable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time I have a problem with a stuck caliper and the pins are ruled out I first disconnect the hose from the caliper and try to retract the piston with a C-clamp. There should be little to no resistance, and if there is then the caliper piston is sticking. It's best to replace the caliper if this is the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piston retracts easily, then the brake hose should be replaced. With the symptoms you're describing this is my first suspicion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squealing could be a symptom of your stuck brakes, but could also be the wear tab on your pads. After smoking as much as you described I would be surprised if the pads had any material left on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, with what happened to your brakes, it is probably a good idea to replace the brake pads. Because the rotor was probably overheated and then clamped in a single spot with the pads, there's a good chance that a hard spot developed, which will lead to surface runout which you will feel as a pulsing when braking. Because of this, if you're going to have everything apart anyway you should probably replace the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T02:47:17.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29013" CreationDate="2016-04-28T03:11:59.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use a pressure washer for this job. We remove the oil pan and valve covers. We then pressure wash from every angle we can reach. It makes a big mess, cover up everything you do not want to clean up later. We then reinstall the oil pan an valve covers, fill with oil, add a new oil filter. Then the engine is started and run at idle only for about 20 minutes. Then the oil and filter are changed again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only done on engines that are severely sludged and would otherwise be overhauled. It can extend useful life for a short time. There is no guarantee given because this process could cause or reveal damage. We have a better than 90% success rate with the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T03:11:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-28T04:01:11.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety in crashes (protecting you):&lt;/strong&gt; Improvements are visible on a decadal scale and the tend to aggregate over time. (this is somewhat backed up by the plot with the dips discussed above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2016: Cars commonly come with lane centering, adaptive cruise control, devices to keep the driver awake, and automatic stop features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2010: Pretty much every car comes with ABS and ESC/Traction control. Cars have airbags all over the place and advanced collision cells and crumple zones&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2000: ABS and Dual airbags are standard in many new cars. Middle passengers likely have a 3 point restraint. Child seat anchors. Passenger head restraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1990: Airbags become available. All cars have crumple zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1980: Fuel tanks have to be inside the car's frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1970: 3 Point seatbelts are starting to be commmon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1965: Unsafe at Any Speed Published (from here you can add things like &quot;roofs that don't collapse when the car rolls)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things that help the driver be safe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2016: Rear back up cameras are ubiquitous&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2010: Rear warning systems common. SUVs built on car platforms handle well and resist rolling. ESC and traction control are ubiquitous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2000: Passenger cars commonly come with 4 wheel disc brakes, wide tires, and abs: better handling and shorter stopping distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1990: Cars come with both driver and passenger side mirrors. Finding a car with rear wheel drive is rare: average new car has superior cold-weather road handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1980: Finding a car without power steering is rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1970: Cars commonly come with front disc brakes, stopping distance decreases dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few areas where safety has decreased over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The loss of visibility as belt lines have come up, A-pillars have thickened, and rear windows have shrunk and been crowded with passenger neck restraints. The driver's situational awareness in a modern car is far less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The advent of the 175 horsepower commuter car lets people get into trouble before they can react. (Easy fix: go light on the gas)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The big tires tend do worse in the snowy weather than the skinny tires did in the 1980's and 1990s since they don't punch through to the ground. (Just buy chains)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New cars have many controls and entertainment systems to fiddle with. (Eyes on the road!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16932" LastEditorUserId="16932" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T12:39:34.317" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T12:39:34.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27985" CreationDate="2016-04-28T04:15:33.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is relatively vague, however there are a few things that could be at issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have a short circuit in your system that is draining the battery, which could also overload the alternator, causing it to fail. Since most of the circuits in a car are behind fuses, a short causing the problem you describe would have to be before the power distribution module (fuse panel), which means it's most likely something directly connected to the battery check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connection from battery to starter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connection from battery to fuse panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connection from battery to alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the Alternator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a bad battery. If the battery was allowed to discharge to low, it won't take a charge anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T04:15:33.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22191" CreationDate="2016-04-28T04:29:30.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the moderate amount of lift you've described (1&quot; to 1.5&quot;), you shouldn't need a to drop your transfer case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dropping the transfer case is done to straighten the angles on the front and rear drive shafts. In your case, consider the length of the drive shafts and the amount of lift. I don't know the dimensions of the XJ, but consider the length of the drive shaft, the angle is only slightly affected by a 1&quot; lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear drive shaft is quite a bit shorter, so the change in angle is more pronounced and more susceptible to drive line vibe, but still shouldn't be enough to cause a drive line vibe. So a vibe related to transfer case position would manifest in the rear first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic checked the U-joints on your driveshaft, but did he check the state of the centering ball on the double-cardan? Did he check if there was any slop in the slip joint in the front drive shaft (rear slip is with the yoke in the transfer case, so not likely coming from there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T04:29:30.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28202" CreationDate="2016-04-28T04:58:00.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my research on surging idle..A possible solution-TPS(Throttle Position Sensor) connector. I read on a diagnostic webpage that this guy disconnected and then reconnected it and the problem was solved for 3 weeks. In theory it makes sense when the ECM loses the input from the TPS sensor it falls back on a default setting until the TPS is reacquired. Maybe the ECM takes data from other sensors. If I were to speculate that the throttle position sensor is a variable resistor  with a speck of dirt on the resistive element that would cause a lack of signal intermittently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T05:04:50.310" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T05:04:50.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28935" CreationDate="2016-04-28T05:44:17.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The values seem awfully high on the low side. The high side is the output of the compressor to the condenser coil where the refrigerant is in liquid form. The low side pressures should be about a third of the high value. The low side is the line to the evaporator coil (inside the vehicle) which is vapor form. When the system is being charged it is from the low side line. Furthermore all air conditioning units require specific quantities and type of refrigerant. &#xA;Most car compressors are 1 ton units (12000 Btu) with .75kg of refrigerant.&#xA;Usually the cycle times are in the order of about 10-20 seconds. I recommend  that you have the pressures checked by a qualified technician. Based on the pressures you might have too much refrigerant in the system which could damage your compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T05:44:17.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-04-28T05:58:16.377" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is both yes and no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes in majority of the conventional vehicles, the pistons keeps moving even when the vehicles is at a stop light. The idle RPM, which is usually between 600RPM to 1000RPM, signifies the speed of the crankshaft. The fuel is calculated by the ECU (or ECM or PCM) depending upon the load, which is a calculated based on readings from Mass Air Flow sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, Intake Air Temperature sensor and Throttle Position Sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays there is start-stop technology implemented in vehicles (commonly found in hybrid technology) and I have also heard of conventional vehicles having this feature. Basically engine shuts off when the vehicle is not moving to save fuel and as soon as the driver touches the throttle pedal, depending upon the load demand (aka throttle position etc.) fuel and spark timing is calculated by the computer and combustion begins to keep the vehicle transition smooth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastEditorUserId="16952" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:03:24.160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:03:24.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-28T06:08:04.913" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I diagnosed a vacuum leak in my car. I removed the air filter from the intake pipe (mine was a turbocharged lancer evolution with an after market intake pipe) started the car. (Make sure your surroundings is not dirty and is very quiet). After starting the vehicle, I placed a book to block the air being sucked into the intake pipe (do not place a plastic bag as it might get sucked it) and obviously the vehicle died in few seconds. I could hear a buzzing noise which was the vacuum leak (as there will be vacuum inside the system) and I just tried to pin point the source of the leak (which was the brake master cylinder O-ring). There are many ways to check for a leak and this is one of the cheapest ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastEditorUserId="16936" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T06:11:36.557" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T06:11:36.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29028" CreationDate="2016-04-28T06:08:58.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hand priming&quot; or actuation is effectively worthless as a gauge on the performance of a Shock/Strut Assy. Only when severely damaged or out of service will the activity show any truly noticeable difference. And by priming the shock, you're effectively wasting your time. It will do so on its own. The reason why this &quot;works&quot; is occasionally air or gas may slip into the hydraulic stage of the shock. When you actuate the shock, you move those bubbles that can occur during shipping back into the air/gas stage. The vehicle is perfectly capable of doing this on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shocks can be bad and still pass a hand test. What is important is the shock's performance on the vehicle. There are various methods to test shocks, however the best method is thorough road test. Take careful consideration to notice any noises, or nuances in the vehicle's performance on different road surfaces. A &quot;bounce and jounce&quot; test (where you bounce the vehicle's corners while stationary) works to some extent, but will not test the fast stage valving in the shock and you may miss road handling characteristics that may be unfavorable/noisy or otherwise undetectable except during normal operation. Experience with vehicle mechanics, particularly suspension, is certainly worthwhile when it comes to determining if a suspension component is bad or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T06:08:58.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28272" CreationDate="2016-04-28T06:19:07.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mode 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mode gives the results of self-diagnostics done on systems not subject to constant surveillance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AA      Misfire data cylinder 9&#xA;The Volvo-a lot those codes are exhaust gas sensors etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mode 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mode shows the stored diagnostic trouble codes. These fault codes are standard for all makes of vehicle and are divided into 4 categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0xxx: for standard faults linked to the powertrain (engine and transmission)&#xA;C0xxx: for standard faults on the chassis&#xA;B0xxx: for standard faults on the body&#xA;U0xxx: for standard faults on the communications network&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T06:19:07.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:00:02.480" Score="4" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my America 800 it's running lean on the right  cylinder and when I adjust the mixture screw it makes no difference. The mixture was checked using an AFR meter. The rubbers between the carbs and manifolds have been replaced today still running lean on right cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike sat for 4 years and when I brought it out to get it going again I found the carburetors full of gunk and it would not run so the carburetors were pulled down and cleaned, and while they were apart I put bigger main jets in and blocked the air recycle system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone has told me that the coil is faulty on the side that is running lean but that doesn't make sense. I have check there are no air leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the idle mixture circuit ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16937" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2017-01-08T17:34:26.223" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T17:34:26.223" Title="Triumph America 2002 running lean on one cylinder" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|fuel-system|triumph|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:32:47.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the other answers, in a manual vehicle, the road wheels are usually disconnected from the engine when at a stop either by putting the transmission in Neutral, or by depressing the clutch pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an automatic vehicle, a torque converter essentially does the same thing as a clutch, but does not require manual intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These mechanisms prevent the engine from stalling when the vehicle comes to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIobzoSGhy4&quot;&gt;video by Engineering Explained&lt;/a&gt; to see how a torque converter works, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ld6xhJuGBk&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; to see the differences between an Automatic and Manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7368" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T07:32:47.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:24:22.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way that has not yet been mentioned is artificially creating a vacuum or pressure in the intake. Vacuum is naturally there when the engine is working, but often the iconic hissing sound a leak makes is overwhelmed by the natural sounds of a working engine in the case of tiny leaks. If you reproduce the vacuum or create pressure with the engine off - you will have a much easier time locating the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be done by either pumping or sucking the air out of the intake, for example by mounting a foot pump, compressor, vacuum cleaner (has to be far enough to not overwhelm the hissing, obviously) to the air pickup by the use of homemade adapters or simply tape. However do note that pressure/vacuum that is too high can damage other parts of your intake tract, so take extreme care not to use more pressure/vacuum than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with the cigar, soapy water, hose stethoscope and a mirror this can be an extremely effective method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T10:36:20.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:36:20.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29004" CreationDate="2016-04-28T08:36:41.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are usually two parts to this diagnosis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Establish that you have a vacuum leak&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If confirmed, find out the source of the malaise&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Confirming the presence of a leak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite trick to establish the presence of a vacuum leak involves physically blocking the air intake(s) using your hands or something suitable. It usually helps to remove the air filter(s) as it reduces the cross-sectional area that needs to be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine continues to run after blocking the intake, this is a clear indication that the engine is drawing air from an alternative source, i.e. a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pinpointing the leak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have outlined several different techniques in their answers. Here is one more that is useful for someone who has access to an air compressor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;block off the air intake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;introduce pressurized air into the intake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spritz soapy water from a spray bottle on suspect areas. The presence of bubbles will signify air escaping from the intake system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach is aptly demonstrated by Jafro in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/fdjadhUP1u4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T10:53:56.300" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T10:53:56.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29022" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:09:44.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can - but make sure you get all the bits that are needed to attach it to the car. Assuming it's an OEM towbar, the mounting points on the chassis should already be present, but you'll probably need bolts, brackets etc from the donor car. You'll also need the full wiring harness including any internal plugs etc that attach it to the car's wiring loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check it all thoroughly to make sure it's in good condition before fitting it to your car, and if any bolts are too badly corroded, replace them with suitable specification replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth taking photos as you remove it, that way you can check how it all goes back together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T09:09:44.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:56:10.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Integrating a dash cam into your car is doable. I used to have a GPS antenna at the top of my windscreen, wedged between the roof lining and the mirror mount. The wire ran along the edge of the roof lining, inside the A-pillar trim and through the dashboard to a power supply I'd placed in the center console behind the stereo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could attach the camera to the rear-view mirror (fabricate a bracket that attaches to the mirror mount). Check if you can wedge the cable between the roof lining and the window. &#xA;If you want to run the cable behind the A-pillar trim, check if there's an airbag in there first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires a bit of work and some tools (removing trim panels becomes a lot easier if you have the right tools), but an amateur like me can do it in a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T20:33:26.530" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:33:26.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29059" CreationDate="2016-04-28T09:56:22.510" Score="5" ViewCount="10610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask because I've always thought it peculiar that the OEM LS1 throttle body has provision for both MAP sensor and TPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since intake manifold pressure depends on how open the throttle plate is, I would imagine that throttle position can be inferred from the MAP reading (assuming an airtight intake - let's keep failure modes like vacuum leaks out of this discussion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't it redundant to have both MAP and TPS on an engine management system? If so, why do some manufacturers like Chevrolet have both on their engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:05:18.243" Title="Why do some engines use both TPS and MAP sensors?" Tags="|engine-theory|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29053" CreationDate="2016-04-28T11:09:07.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While these two sensors are related to how the engine runs, their function and what they provide for engine management are completely different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;MAP (or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MAP provides the computer with information as far as the density of the air. This &lt;strong&gt;tells the engine how much air is actually getting into the engine&lt;/strong&gt;. This, along with the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor (if so equipped) and O2 sensors, tells engine management how much fuel to disperse into each cylinder to keep the air/fuel ratio somewhere near stoich so the engine will run at its best with fewer emissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;TPS (or Throttle Position sensor)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TPS is basically there to &lt;strong&gt;provide the computer with the driver's input&lt;/strong&gt;. What does the driver want to do? Larger TPS reading provides for more load to be put upon the engine and for the vehicle to go faster. It can also indicate to the management system if the need to downshift the transmission is needed to provide the vehicle response the driver is wanting. Of note, with most vehicle manufacturers moving towards &quot;drive by wire&quot; (no direct connection between the throttle pedal and the throttle body), there is no need for a TPS. Since the computer controls the throttle, it &lt;em&gt;knows already&lt;/em&gt; where the throttle position is at, because it is directing the show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, these are the general reasons for having each of these sensors. While you could possibly infer throttle position due to manifold pressure, having both sensors allows the engine to be more responsive. If running just off of the MAP sensor to determine these things, the computer would always be reactive and trying to keep up with the demand. There would have to be large assumptions built into the programming and I'd assume a larger more powerful engine management system would have to be applied to compensate. Having both sensors there gives the computer the exact want of the driver as well as the amount of air flow going into the engine to provide the driver with a much better driving experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be of note, there is also the same argument made for having both a MAF and a MAP sensor installed on the vehicle. These two share a lot of the duties to help with engine management. Many GM vehicles were produced with both sensors (and still are). Without a MAF, the engine management can run in what is known as &lt;em&gt;speed density mode&lt;/em&gt;. While this mode works, having the MAF in place provides a more precise measurement of incoming air for the computer, and thus better fuel management, economy, and lower emissions. It does provide a restriction in the intake tract, though, which is the tradeoff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T11:30:58.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T11:30:58.350" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T11:50:12.543" Score="4" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2009 Pulsar 220 FI. When the engine is cold, the sound of the engine is pleasant. But when I run a few kilometers, the sound becomes harsh. I read that when engine oil gets hot the oil flows through the oil cooler and hence I think the oil level in the crankcase decreases which leads to increasing the harshness of the engine sound. The company specified quantity for engine oil is 1150ml and I have filled the same amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen if I fill a few more 100ml of engine oil in it? What will happen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it make the sound nice or will it damage my motor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16941" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:54:58.147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T00:57:40.123" Title="Does the oil level in my Pulsar 220 FI change the engine sound?" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|pulsar|bajaj|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29053" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:23:30.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the reason is for vehicles which operate &quot;fly-by-wire&quot; throttle pedals.  Without a TPS, you'd have no idea how much throttle angle the drivers foot was asking for so the engine wouldn't know how far to open it's throttle flap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T12:23:30.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29060" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:52:57.357" Score="11" ViewCount="27858" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I have to purchase a torque wrench which I will use to torque things like brake calipers, wheels and the like. To make things interesting, I will have to buy it a different size ratchet than all of the sockets I already own. I am therefore thinking of getting a ratchet adapter so that I can avoid purchasing more sockets and accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of a 1/2&quot; ratchet torque wrench next to a 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot; step-down adapter as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRgyGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRgyGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1/2 torque wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cV7SAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cV7SAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1/2 to 3/8 adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does using a ratchet adaptor (say 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot;) on a wrench reduce the applied torque? How about using 2 adapters in series (say 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot; to 1/4&quot;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T12:58:28.667" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:06:14.663" Title="Does using a ratchet size adaptor on a click-type ratchet wrench reduce the applied torque?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29053" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:05:18.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_pfi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_pfi.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 84-95 Dodge FWD cars (2.2/2.5/3.0) use a speed density system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;MAP&lt;/strong&gt; MAP sensor is the primary sensor in determining how much fuel the engine needs.  This is the second most important sensor to the ECU after the distributor's HEP(Hall Effect Pickup) sensor.  Basically, the engine can flow a given amount of air, so this value is hard coded in the ECU.  The ECU can calculate how much fuel is needed based on the hard coded flow rate, manifold pressure, and RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;TPS&lt;/strong&gt; serves 2 purposes - identify quick changes and WOT(wide open throttle).  When the throttle is opened or closed quickly, it can a couple engine revolutions for the manifold pressure to reflect the throttle position.  The ECU will adjust accordingly by giving more or less fuel until the MAP sensor readings catch up with the TPS readings.  This is similar to the accelerator pump on a carburetor.   When the ECU senses WOT, it will turn off the A/C, turn on the cooling fans, and use a different fueling and timing table.  In most vehicles, the WOT flag could be set by the MAP reading sensor reading near barometric pressure, but these ECUs were also used on turbocharged vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:05:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29058" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:07:15.073" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't reduce the torque. Torque is equivalent to &lt;code&gt;radius&lt;/code&gt; x &lt;code&gt;force&lt;/code&gt;. As long as &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt;, the force is applied at the same distance from the nut/bolt that you're tightening and &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;, it's applied in the same direction then you'll be applying the same torque. An adapter (especially so short) shouldn't have a noticeable effect on the direction that you're applying the force. Luckily, you don't have to measure your &lt;code&gt;radius&lt;/code&gt;(&lt;em&gt;foot&lt;/em&gt;) x &lt;code&gt;force&lt;/code&gt;(&lt;em&gt;lbs&lt;/em&gt;) because the torque wrench will do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one concern with using more than a couple of adapters is that the possibility of introducing a significant change in the angle between the torque wrench and bolt/nut face becomes more plausible. The torque wrench should be parallel to the face of whatever you're torquing for the measurement to be accurate. See the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Z8Oem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Z8Oem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4543" LastEditorUserId="4543" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T13:37:14.353" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:37:14.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:25:18.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One notable option for an integrated dash cam is the new C7 Corvette.  As a dealer installed option, you can get a complete Performance Data Recorder (PDR) that includes a dash cam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xZKT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xZKT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PDR records GPS data, car performance information such as G-Force and steering angle and overlays everything on the through-the-windsheild POV video to give you something resembling a real-life video game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This goes beyond a simple dash cam to record accidents or strange things crossing the street, but I think it meets the criteria of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:25:18.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29058" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:35:23.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is twisting force, if the adapter has some flex to it then torque would be reduced, similar to the torque you loose on a long ratchet extension bar. A short adapter like in your question would have little or no twist or reduce the torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:35:23.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29083" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:25:38.377" Score="5" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Servicing intervals are usually specified using kilometrage, years, or a combination of both. For example my motorbike has servicing intervals every 1000/12000/24000/36000/48000/etc. months xor 6/12/24/36/48/etc. months, where xor means either one or the other measurement is to be used depending on which falls earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have more than one vehicle, I am having a hard time tracking down when I did what servicing on my vehicles. I am having an even more hard time remembering when I should service them next. The issue here is that not all manufacturers use similar servicing intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is the question. &lt;strong&gt;Is there an efficient way to keep track of what was done on each vehicle, and when the next servicing interval falls?&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally I am looking for a smart solution that is easy to upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T13:50:34.773" Title="How can I remember when to service my vehicle?" Tags="|maintenance|scheduled-maintenance|tips-and-tricks|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:36:36.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough reputation to comment, but the small economy cars (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kei_car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;K-car at wikipedia&quot;&gt;K or Kei cars&lt;/a&gt;) in Japan also have this StopStart feature, as Mauro commented (for European cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this feature is now common, say the last 3-5 years, across all K-cars (multiple manufacturers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On these cars, this StopStart feature is also available on automatic cars, so the implementation is slightly different than explained by Mauro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, the StopStart feature increases fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16946" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:36:36.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:41:11.223" Score="7" ViewCount="4368" Body="&lt;p&gt;So last night me and a friend changed the oil on my 2005 Chevy aveo. The only problem was that what we were draining was the transmission fluid and long story short we ended up adding about 6 litres of oil without draining out the oil that was already in the vehicle. As I was leaving my friends place I drove for about 10 feet when what looked like white smoke started coming out (although we decided it could have been a light blue but it was dark out.) and the whole vehicle started to rumble. now the vehicle won't even start. We figured out what we had done and drained the oil to an acceptable level but my car still won't start. I'm wondering if there is an issue that  caused by this that is fixable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16948" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T15:44:39.937" Title="Excessively over filled motor oil. Ran for a few seconds until smoke came out. Now my car won't start" Tags="|oil|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:41:45.397" Score="5" ViewCount="2833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an ELM 327 with Bluetooth from my brother in law. We have tested it in his Chevrolet Aveo with several apps and it works like a charm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried it on my Fiat Panda 2012, the apps couldn't connect and some apps notify me that no compatible obd2 protocol is detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdtester.com/ficom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; site that says Fiat, amongst others, use something called FicCom. It doesn't clearly state that it should be used with dedicated hardware, only that the FiCom hardware has some extra special features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/299463-FiCOM-Fiat-Alfa-Lancia-diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; I came across, which has no regard for the English language or Internet Internet etiquette, has some posts that states that you do need dedicated hardware for that, though I learned to not always trust a sparsely moderated forum as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I out of luck to try and communicate with my Panda through the generic ELM 327 interface, or do I just need special software that can understand the FiCom language of Fiat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16939" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:16:36.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T15:59:11.823" Title="Does Fiat need dedicated FiCom OBD hardware and software for diagnostics?" Tags="|diagnostics|fiat|software|elm-327|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29066" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:59:47.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.multiecuscan.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Multi ECU Scan&lt;/a&gt;. It's a free/non-free software suite that works with most, if not all, FIAT's. Most of the diagnostic tools can be accessed for free. Other tools require a licence. The licence is not that expensive so it could be worth the investment. In no way is this my software nor my company. I know about the software because I used it to diagnose my 2002 Panda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Panda will most likely have &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OBD connectors&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsKE2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsKE2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you'll need the appropriate cable and adaptor. For completeness sake, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Fiat-Panda-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a link with pictures showing where to find the connector&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T15:59:11.823" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T15:59:11.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29065" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:06:07.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see in your question where you refilled the ATF for the transmission. It's possible at least part of the grumbling you heard was the transmission complaining about being about 1/3 to 1/2 low on fluid. Be sure the use the right fluid as shown in your owners or repair manual for the car. Fill it back to the cold mark on the stick. I think an '05 Chevy will still have a dip stick for the transmission. Many newer cars don't, depending on the model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, roughly half the volume of your oil is still dirty. Do the oil change again, but this time check what drains out to look for bits of metal in the oil. If you put a large, strong magnet in the pan that you're draining into, and make sure the oil drains onto / over the magnet, you can collect any ferrous metals in the oil. If you do find metal in the oil, do not attempt to start it again, take it to a professional for evaluation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that much oil in the crank case, cross your fingers your haven't destroyed the bottom end of your engine. If after filling the transmission, and making sure the oil level is ok, if you still hear horrible noises when you crank it, stop trying to start it. At that point you would be well advised to take it to a professional for evaluation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T15:11:11.660" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:11:11.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29058" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:06:14.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly advise against using a 1/2&quot; torque wrench with 1/2-&gt;3/8 and 3/8-&gt;1/4 adaptors, particularly in the range you are suggesting. 1/4&quot; drive adaptors are weak, and I think you'll struggle to find any that can take 200NM of torque without twisting (or failing completely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend picking up a rail of 1/2&quot; drive sockets when you get the Torque wrench - in my local store they are about 1/4 the price of the wrench, so it won't add too much to your outlay, and will be much more accurate, and stronger!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:06:14.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:47:43.620" Score="8" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and then I come across a car that has parts of its front covered in a leather-like tissue. Finally, I have learned that these things are called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front-end_bra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;front-end bra&lt;/a&gt; or front-end cover. The linked Wikipedia article also has some discussion about the rationale behind this cover and how useful or not it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most of the covers I see also have two protrusions consisting of the same material basically folded up to a triangular shaped bar, as can be seen in the image below (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:1991_BMW_318i_with_hood_bra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2AYz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2AYz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW with bra&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the Wikipedia article does not explain what those protrusions are for. The only thing I could imagine is that they are thought as some kind of wind deflector to keep the wind shield cleaner and/or provide better functionality of the wipers at higher speeds. Am I right with this idea or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9607" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:01:00.657" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:01:00.657" Title="What are the protrusions on a front-end bra for?" Tags="|body|frontend|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:48:05.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would try it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming there was a built in safety factor, I loaded 100 lbs of mountain bike/rack onto the 75 lb limited factory roof rails/cross bars on an '04 Toyota RAV4, and other than a little bit of flexing in the cross bars, there were zero issues after an hour of 70+ mph highway cruising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make sure, I would strap them on and go for a test run up to 30 mph. After that, pull over and check everything is still tight, then try 40, wash rinse and repeat at 50, 60 mph. Also check relatively hard braking and side loading that you may encounter in an emergency situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would of course advise you to find an empty parking lot to try this, just in case your little boats turn into little planes. Obviously you are assuming some risk of damage, but you already knew that when you asked the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy paddlin'!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:48:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29071" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:50:18.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to refer to those as eyebrows, and in the specific image you posted, they are to add some stiffening and down force to the center of the bra so the flat edge against the hood doesn't flap around in the wind.  Since there is nothing to fasten the center of the bra to, the designers had to resort to aerodynamic forces to keep it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T15:56:24.680" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:56:24.680" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29063" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:51:25.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to the local parts store. They have small plastic stickers which remind you when to change the oil; in the USA, they're usually free, as long as you don't take hundreds. Get one for each vehicle, and put it on the windscreen - 'next service at 315,000 or August 2017' (OK, you can see how old my cars are!). To remember, just drive the vehicle and look up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a solution for fleets where you don't drive the cars, but if they're yours, you'll probably drive them enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:51:25.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:15:05.007" Score="9" ViewCount="5124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to fit a variable geometry turbo to my car. Its vanes are usually controlled an electrical actuator (otherwise sometimes it's on vacuum). What information is used to to inform the state of the turbo vanes, though - throttle position, intake air mass, engine speed, or what? Is there a canonical formula I can use to build a circuit that gives the correct response for given conditions? No problem fitting trimming potentiometers to tune it on the fly, but I need to know what information is suited, so that I can get whatever sensors are called for in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:42:01.167" Title="what sensors and formula are used to control VGT/VNT turbos?" Tags="|sensor|turbocharger|electronics|throttle-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:26:46.977" Score="6" ViewCount="1033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Used tires, how can I be sure that they are roadworthy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from looking at the general appearance, how do I properly inspect the tire(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any scenarios, (damage has occurred), where I should absolutely avoid using the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make no assumptions about the tire(s). They could be on a vehicle or laying on the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:48:34.183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:48:34.183" Title="How do I inspect a used tire?" Tags="|tires|safety|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29076" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:45:01.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the tire is used, having a way to check the tread depth is going to be important, and if you are buying a set of two for a single axle, make sure you can get two that have the same amount of tread so you don't put extra strain on your differential (assuming driven wheels).  If you're getting one tire, try and match the remaining tread on your existing tire.  Note that 2/32&quot; is considered a totally worn tire, and many tires will start in the 12/32&quot;-10/32&quot; range when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as damage goes, pay attention to any repairs that have been done, and if any, make sure it was a proper repair, and not some roadside plug.  Look for cuts along the tire that may not have lead to a flat, and look at &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sidewalls of the tire for abrasion or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the tire bead (inside edge) to make sure it's in good condition since a used tire has, by definition, been on and off of a rim.  Any time the tire is put on a mounting machine is a chance for damage by an inexperienced operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire is free of damage, we also need to see when the tire was made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8q7W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8q7W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire should have a stamp like the one in the bottom right of this image.  The tire in the image was made in the 51st week of 2007.  The last for digits have been standardized, so you can rely on the date code.  If the tire is older, look for signs of the rubber hardening or cracking.  If the code is not present, the tire may have been made before 2000, and you don't want that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:45:01.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29076" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:46:24.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Used tires, how can I be sure that they are roadworthy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asked what vehicle they came from if possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aside from looking at the general appearance, how do I properly&#xA;  inspect the tire(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure no bulges exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8srp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8srp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the tire's are not dry rotted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCevF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCevF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look to see if any metal is showing on the inside or surrounding of the tire or if it has several patches as that would indicate it's had a flat before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWOWw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWOWw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the tread is in good shape and not showing wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9F23.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9F23.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If replacing tires ask if they have a pair of them as it does help prevent damage your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any scenarios, (damage has occurred), where I should&#xA;  absolutely avoid using the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always looked at used tires as a temporary solution if Im running low on cash and I need something better than I have or for a rim that I plan to use if I run into a flat as I hate the donut and prefer a full size tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:46:24.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29087" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:58:08.230" Score="11" ViewCount="10272" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the titles says I've seen several shops indicate that if you can only replace two tires that they should go on the rear, example Firestone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cg7V5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cg7V5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So shouldn't tires be placed on the front?  I was under the impression that if your older tires were on your front you would loose traction if trying to turn in a rain storm.  Another issue I would imagine is braking would be effected since you have greater of percentage power in the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also referenced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15152/replacing-new-tires-on-front-because-rear-ones-are-a-different-size&quot;&gt;Replacing new tires on front because rear ones are a different size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6916/should-one-fit-the-least-worn-tires-to-the-rear-wheels&quot;&gt;Should one fit the least-worn tires to the rear wheels?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this Q&amp;amp;A compares to the above two was to get a better answer on why the rear is preferred to the front.  The voted question that is being considered as the duplicate of doesn't mention oversteer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T04:44:12.697" Title="If only replacing two tires should they go on the front or back?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-29T13:34:48.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29063" CreationDate="2016-04-28T18:00:28.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make my own little paper tag.  It has three things on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Date of last oil change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage at last oil change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage at next oil change.  (generally I use 5000 mile increments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I write real small. the tag is 1&quot; x 1.5&quot; or so.  Then I use scotch tape to tape this tag to the upper left hand corner of the windshield on the inside of the car.  The ones the oil change place gives out never ever have those three pieces of information on them, bastards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, I haven't figured out what to do for the motorcycle. Perhaps a paper tag under the seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T18:00:28.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29075" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:13:25.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dodge installed VNT Turbochargers on cars in 89 and 90.  The most well known of which is the 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT.  The vanes were controlled by a dual port vacuum actuator. There was nothing electronic on the turbo itself, but there were vacuum solenoids (for boost control) on the lines going to the actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The VNT Turbo has movable vanes on the exhaust turbine.  When they are in the 'closed' position, they are more restrictive.  This causes the turbo to spool much faster.  When they are open, they create less backpressure.  This means the turbo handles higher boost better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the position of the vanes is dependent upon how much boost the turbo is pushing.  The more boost is being generated, the more exhaust gas is flowing, the less restrictive the exhaust side needs to be.  This means the vanes open more and more as boost gets higher.  When you get near your maximum boost, the vanes start to close to stop the turbo pushing more boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 port canister works by having one side open the vanes for less restriction, then the second side close the vanes for maximum boost.  The side to open the vanes is connected to the manifold, the side to close the vanes is connected to a boost controller.  The spring inside will close the vanes when the pressure is equal on both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, when dodge installed these turbos, they used a turbo that was too small.  It would spool super quick (almost no turbo lag), but suffered on the top end.  Normally, a VNT turbo is larger than a standard turbo, as the variable vanes help it to spool faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_vnt_pictures.html&quot;&gt;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_vnt_pictures.html&lt;/a&gt; - pictures of the VNT Turbo&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_vnt.html&quot;&gt;http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_vnt.html&lt;/a&gt; - Technical information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T19:20:32.967" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:20:32.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29079" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:26:21.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends. If the car is front wheel drive, then you are expecting your front wheels to do all of the following well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply power to the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the bulk of the stopping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you would want the newest and best tires on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a rear wheel drive car, if the front lose traction you're going to under steer in a wet corner. (If you're not familiar with it, under steer means the driver turns but the car just goes pretty much straight.) If the rear tires let loose in a corner you will over steer. (The driver turns and the back end comes out making the car steer more than the driver intended). If I had to chose, I would take over steer over under steer any day. With over steer in a rear wheel drive you can control the amount of turn in with the throttle. With under steer, once you are in this state, you can't really slow down because the front wheels are already sliding so you can't expect them to provide good braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, maybe it doesn't matter, I would suggest you put the good tires on the front. Which is exactly what I believe long haul truckers do. They may have retreads on the rear wheels of the tractor, but the fronts are always nice new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:26:21.437" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29063" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:27:48.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Use a dry erase board (whiteboard)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a whiteboard in the garage. Low tech, but very effective. I track not only necessary service date/mileage, but also when they're due for government inspection and also any other minor items I notice but don't want to fix right then.  So for me, it looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; vehicle      next svc date/mi   inspection   TP front/rear   maint&#xA; -------      ----------------   ----------   -------------   ------&#xA;2000 car A      N/A                  N/A         30/30        reinstall engine&#xA;1982 car B     June   272500        May          29/30        fix heater relay&#xA;2013 car C     May     44000        Oct          35/35        &#xA;2006 car D     April, 107500        Nov          30/30        chk RR susp bushing&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is physically mounted above my air compressor, at the back of the garage and very visible when I pull in.  My father, from whom I borrowed the system, also put engine oil weight and capacities, but I leave that on the computer so I can automatically send myself a &quot;shopping list&quot; for oil/filter/air filter/etc. for regular service, so it's on my phone when I get to the auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:27:48.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29105" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:27:58.380" Score="12" ViewCount="112325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put metal valve caps on my tires a year or so ago, because I'm an idiot. When I went to add some air to my tires one day, I found that the caps were seized up. Now I am unable to get them off. This is a sensitive part, so I can't just muscle them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Liquid wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding the stem with pliers and turning the cap with another pair of pliers. I used as much pressure as I was comfortable with and no joy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm out of ideas, because brute force methods will lead to much bigger problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of how I can get these off without causing further damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are rubber stems, and luckily they don't have a pressure sensor (i hear that makes them extra fragile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;now I know why valve caps are plastic&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16961" LastEditorUserId="16961" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:33:38.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T13:45:36.063" Title="How to remove metal valve caps?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29079" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:31:19.270" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you may well know: when you're turning, an under-steer condition is when the front tires lose grip and start to slide, and an over-steer condition is when the back tires loose grip and start to slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the inexperienced driver, under-steer conditions are much easier to control, as you can still see where you are heading, and can simply straighten the wheel to regain traction and attempt to control the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-steer conditions are much more dangerous, because the yaw rate of the car when the back tires lose grip will cause the car to spin. This not only makes the car &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more difficult to control (attempting to steer becomes frantic and confusing when you suddenly find yourself traveling backwards), but also makes it hard to see what potential obstacles you are heading toward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-steer conditions will be exacerbated if the front tires have significantly more grip than the rear, as they will allow faster corner entry than the low grip rear tires can't handle: resulting in a spin. Hitting the brakes will also shift the weight of the car onto the front axle, increasing their potential for grip while simultaneously decreasing the load and grip on the rear axle, meaning any movement of the steering wheel will have a higher chance of causing the rear tires to lose grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Moab is probably correct in assuming lawsuits against tire shops for outfitting new tires on the front forced this rule, despite the fault likely being the drivers for traveling too fast for conditions. Either way, if you feel strongly otherwise you are always free to rotate your own tires when you get home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:31:19.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:34:18.653" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that it sounds like they have rusted to the valve stems, you could try soaking the threads and the whole area with PB Blaster specifically. I have seen it work really well, and could be better than Liquid Wrench. Although that does work well too. And when I say soak I mean overnight. It's not like you can use heat to loosen them up, you'll melt the valve stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they still won't come lose, you can always take it to a tire shop and replace the valve stems with nice plastic caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trust me, if this is the worst thing you ever do to your car, you're doing just fine. Lesson learned, we've all done worse I have no doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:34:18.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29079" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:38:31.560" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Officially, the better tires go on the rear to help prevent oversteer.  If you front tires loose traction (understeer), you are going to go straight until you catch traction, or hit something.  Its safest to hit something with the front of your car.  If you oversteer, it is much more difficult to recover.  You are more likely to hit things with the side or back of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a bit more experienced, and your tires aren't bald to begin with, having the better tires up front isn't too big a deal.  The rear typically has more negative camber to give it better traction.  You typically will not have issues as long as you aren't pushing your tires to the limit.  However, you will be more likely to loose control in an emergency braking/avoidance situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I run the better tires on the drive wheels.  I drove a FWD car for years with sporty 225s up front and all season 195s on the back and never had an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:38:31.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:50:09.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No car is safe!&lt;/strong&gt;  It can (and does) hurt and kill much more than anything most of us do frequently.  Best safety equipment is the operator of the vehicle....&lt;strong&gt;NOTHING can replace an alert, smart, and knowledgeable driver!&lt;/strong&gt;  Anyone with knowledge of their vehicle and its limitations can be a safe and courteous fellow driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that stated, the advancements in newer cars are quite astounding.  They have many technologies that will help protect the occupants.  However, a loose 2x4 can slam through a modern windshield/window as effectively as it can in classics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with each item that a modern car will now 'do for you', most drivers become dependent upon the equipment and do not know what to do if a real road emergency arises.&#xA;Anti-lock brakes are a great example.  They are wonderful and will help in emergency braking.  However, this gain has also almost eliminated the casual driver from having the experience on how to handle a skidding car!  I have gotten myself out of several troubles by simply never getting my car into a bad situation in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I gladly put my family in a safer, newer vehicle every chance I get!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know the risks...know the vehicle...be smart...happy motoring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16963" LastEditorUserId="16963" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T19:56:29.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:56:29.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29075" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:52:41.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I've never done this practically. This answer is based on my somewhat limited exposure to turbomachinery theory in automotive applications.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's all about the flow&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike fixed-geometry turbos, in which the vanes provide optimal efficiency for a single flow, vane angles are adjusted in variable-geometry turbos to enhance efficiency across a broad flow range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cue the obligatory images and &lt;a href=&quot;http://paultan.org/2006/08/16/how-does-variable-turbine-geometry-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Low Flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJ5Rm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJ5Rm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VGT Low Flow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;High Flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu8Vo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu8Vo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VGT High Flow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What factors can be used to control vane angle?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect engine load is going to be key here. Although I have no references to back up this statement, it makes sense since that will directly impact how much exhaust flows over the turbine blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this effect, you may find the following relationships as useful inputs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass air flow - ↑ flow = ↑ angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle position - ↑ throttle position change rate = ↑ angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that relationships are not expected to be linear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what will the function mapping look like?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will heavily depend on your turbo and engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was my project, I'd follow an experimental procedure similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a given engine speed and throttle position, command several vane angles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each angle&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;record the mass air flow and boost level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should give you a very good baseline for steady-state running, since the data can be used to perform a regression that maps mass air flow and throttle position to the vane angle that provides the targeted boost level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vane Angle = f( Mass air flow, throttle position, target boost )&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for transients, where rate of change of throttle will feature more prominently, I imagine this will be much more difficult to gather field data for. Maybe someone else can chime in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In any case, this is an awesome undertaking. I wish you the best in this endeavour.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T11:42:01.167" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:42:01.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28586" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:10:30.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that liquid fuel is incompressible, the missing piece of the puzzle here is fuel density, which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=density+octane&amp;amp;ie=&amp;amp;oe=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;around 700 kg/m³&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the fuel mass flow rate is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mass flow rate = Density * Volumetric flow rate&#xA;               = 700 kg/m³ * 1.27 l/h&#xA;               = 0.2469 g/s ¹&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dividing the air mass flow rate by mass flow rate yields the AFR number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AFR = air mass flow rate / fuel mass flow rate&#xA;    = 3.66 g/s / 0.2469 g/s&#xA;    = 14.82&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I may have mistyped 0.2469 as 0.2459 when performing the original calculation, hence the discrepancy in the result)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ - Calculated&lt;a href=&quot;http://wolfr.am/cjolDXA6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T10:09:23.500" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:09:23.500" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:54:40.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using some sort of penetrant doesn't help loosen up the caps, you can cut them down the side with a Dremel tool.  You will mess up the threads on the valve stem a little, but they will replace the stems when you get new tires anyway, so its not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would cut down one side, being careful not to go too deep, then try to pry the cap open by twisting a flathead screwdriver in the new channel that you just cut.  The cap should be brass or aluminum, so it will cut quick and easy.  Note that the valve stem is also brass and will cut easily, so be careful and don't try this if it's your first foray into dremeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:54:40.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40621" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:26:01.167" Score="6" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking forward to more sports car racing this year (alas, just as a participant) and so I thought I'd look over the rules in detail.  Specifically, I was reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imsa.com/sites/default/files/uploads/2016%20IMSA%20Technical%20Regulations%20GTLM%2020160406%20Blackline.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2016 IMSA Technical Regulations&lt;/a&gt; for the GTLM class in the IMSA Weathertech Sportscar Championship. For the crankshaft, and mostly consistent with last year's rules, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Free design. &#xA;  Its weight must not be more than 10% lower than the original (titanium-based alloy forbidden). &#xA;  The firing order is free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obvious to me why they'd restrict the material and weight (since lighter is often faster in a racecar), but I was curious about the possible ramifications of the firing order being free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my reading of the rules, the engine control unit is also free, which suggests that a non-fixed firing order might be employed.  I know that in the current F1 cars, it's allowed to have the engine control unit &quot;skip&quot; cylinders (e.g. at idle to avoid overheating the engine on the grid).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question: is a dynamic firing order ever used in racing?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not currently, it seems likely that &lt;em&gt;somebody&lt;/em&gt; must at least have consider using it in the history of racing, but I can't find much to indicate one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear when I say &lt;em&gt;dynamic firing order&lt;/em&gt;, the simplest case would be to simply skip cylinders as the old Northstar engine did to save fuel when cruising.  My understanding of the rules (which may be flawed) is that variable cam timing is allowed if the original engine had it, so I'm imagining a scenario in which cam timing, injector and spark plug firing might all be controlled (as it is in some production engines) to the extreme that the firing order might be changed as the engine is running.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even Koenigsegg, doesn't quite yet have an entirely cam-less engine (yet), but I was wondering if a more conventional cam-based engine might still be able to employ such tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-11-06T22:41:13.267" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T09:06:40.633" Title="Can a modified or non-fixed firing order yield a racing advantage?" Tags="|engine-theory|firing-order|racing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28967" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:36:13.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the 97 Sonoma the controls are electronic and send a signal to a vacuum switch block which will send vacuum to various valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CXYx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CXYx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from a corvette but is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dhKqp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dhKqp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the switches on the control panel can fail more commonly the vacuum lines, check valve or vacuum reservoir will fail first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locate the vacuum source line and measure engine vacuum. If vacuum is low or non existent check the check valve for sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the vacuum reservoir using a vacuum pump. Leaking on the seams of the reservoir is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So funny enough a Buick with the same problem rolled in today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gi5P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gi5P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIUjP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIUjP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVYo1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gVYo1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum line was burnt looks like the engine caught on fire and this wasn't fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything working OK now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6yt0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q6yt0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T14:49:50.007" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:49:50.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28051" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:27:16.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking out mode 6. Here is a link that might help.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.counterman.com/unlock-the-mysteries-of-mode-06/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.counterman.com/unlock-the-mysteries-of-mode-06/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It is extremely difficult to find exact info on mode 6 data as the manufacturers seem to be secretive about it. The closest I got for Hyundai was this link where you ask technicians questions (and probably pay through the nose for it). &lt;strong&gt;www.justanswer.com › Car Questions › Hyundai Repair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T22:27:16.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:44:20.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill a hole in the top of the cap and squirt your favorite rust eater in there, this way you can soak it from both sides of the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some gentle heat will draw the lube into the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T22:44:20.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2442" CreationDate="2016-04-28T23:12:09.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds more like a transmission issue than a engine issue. It sounds like it not going to first gear but when you rev the engine it upshifts  into second and drive normally. I could be a slipping clutch. In automatics there are pairs of clutches for each gear. When changing gears one clutch applies and other partially applies until it moves fast enough to engage then the other clutch releases. Can it go in reverse? If memory serves first and reverse share the same shaft. It has quite a few years since I have had deal with automatics. I drive manual..less complicated only one clutch. All I can really is that a major overhaul or transmission replacement is in order and either option is expensive. &#xA;The mere statement about going like a bat out of Hades....definitely rules out engine issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T23:19:22.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T23:19:22.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29056" CreationDate="2016-04-29T00:57:40.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;50 to 100ml should be OK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That small of an amount won't hurt anything in overall scheme of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to put too much in though because you can do engine damage if you put in a large extra quantity.  You will want to ensure you do not overfill your bike beyond the high oil mark in your oil window on the side of your clutch cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article talks about too much engine oil in a car and what the damage could potentially be but many of the principles also apply universally among all engines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24679/what-actually-happens-when-there-is-way-too-much-oil-in-a-car-engine&quot;&gt;What actually happens when there is way too much oil in a car engine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sound Suppression&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that you indicated you have a friend that has experienced engine noise suppression by adding in an extra 50ml to 100ml of oil.  This will only increase the height of the oil by a millimeter or two in the crankcase, I do not see how this could increase sound suppression by 10%.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have sounds emerging from your engine that are of concern perhaps you have an issue that require addressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T00:57:40.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T01:12:58.220" Score="4" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, horrific squealing comes out from the engine compartment. Horrific squealing remains when the transmission is in park and reverse position. It disappears after driving forward for about 5 to 10 seconds. After this, the engine runs perfectly until next time when it is cold and restarted. However, there is no squealing sound in raining days or when the air is wet (regardless the engine is cold or hot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer was not able to help because they cannot hear the horrific squealing (because the engine is hot every time I visited the shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would I do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16975" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T02:50:32.223" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:50:32.223" Title="Horrific Squealing on Start - 2002 Pathfinder" Tags="|nissan|troubleshooting|noise|pathfinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29099" CreationDate="2016-04-29T01:43:21.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the tension on the serpentine belts at the front of the engine - sounds like they're a tad loose. It may be something else, but start there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T01:43:21.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:12:36.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This symptom is a classic for lug nuts coming lose while you are driving.  When lug nuts come lose the wheel will vibrate and after a time, as other lugs on that wheel come lose, it will scare you to death.  Check all the wheels for lose lugs as it is hard to identify the correct rim with the lose lugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I know this by experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16978" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:12:36.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="73" CreationDate="2016-04-29T03:26:25.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I change the rotors and pads at the same time. I like the knowledge that my brake parts have the same service life. I live in a harsh climate that takes a toll on all parts that are close to the ground (snow, ice, salt, sand, rain and Lord knows what) attacking them. Safety is always worth a few extra bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:51:56.217" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:51:56.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-04-29T03:43:44.693" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow idiot here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penetrants won't work. Get a hacksaw with a very fine metal blade and saw away. Use a screw driver to pry open both sides when you have enough clearance. You need to cut the top and one of the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMNHA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMNHA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9mpy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9mpy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16981" LastEditorUserId="16981" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T14:34:06.207" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T14:34:06.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29079" CreationDate="2016-04-29T04:44:12.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that you do want them on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one of the reasons is probably not what you would expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that it's important that the front tires lock up first when braking hard, for example, in wet weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds backwards, I know. You might think, &lt;em&gt;I want the rear's to lock up so they hold the rear end back and keep me from spinning.&lt;/em&gt;   Except, that's not how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that static friction is stronger than sliding friction. Meaning, normal rolling tires can brake harder than skidding tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And more braking in the rear keeps you from spinning, unless you just completely blow it and lock up all four tires. But a lockup is a warning. With better tires in front, say, in the rain, it would be easy to brake harder, a little harder, then a bit harder, and then with no warning lock up the rears and start a spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so, the older tires that will skid first should be in front so they don't hold as well in bad weather, where normal drivers are most likely to brake too hard for the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16980" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T04:44:12.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:19:21.030" Score="5" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that requires me to design an overload control centre where overloaded trucks are allowed to redistribute or shed some of it's cargo in order to continue to travel on the highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we are pressed for space I would like to make the design as economical as possible and maybe force the vehicles in a certain flow direction in order to ensure the longevity of the driving surface. But before I can do this I need to understand what kind of maneuvers are possible for the vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of sources that that has done that, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://design.transportation.org/Documents/TurnRadii,GreenBook2004.pdf&quot;&gt;AASHTO&lt;/a&gt;. There are also various plugins that exist for different CAD applications, some of which are free as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this myriad of information, I still cannot find any information on how to determine this myself. It is trivial to do this for a car, but the moment the vehicle is articulated my attempts don't match what the sources tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain to me how to determine the turning profile&#xA;  of any vehicle, given that I have the necessary information? My main concern is: How does the trailer react when a force is applied that is not perpendicular to its axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I need certain information such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The maximum angle that the front wheels can turn,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distances of the axles from each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where the trailer pivot is in relation to the truck and trailer, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16939" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:41:42.103" Title="How can I determine the turning profile of an articulated vehicle?" Tags="|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29110" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:24:14.837" Score="7" ViewCount="1936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing a head gasket replacement onnmy 86 Kawasaki ninja gpz1000 and I while cleaning the gunk off the top of the block I noticed a small gap/crack in between two cylinders (Pictures are linked below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSjXz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSjXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/Z1jSV&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't go deep, and I don't think it would have an effect in performance or anything since it isn't near any place where fluid could get in, but it wasn't like this between any other cylindera ans I wanted another opinion. Thanks for any help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T07:45:50.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T07:45:50.427" Title="Small crack/gap between cylinders on block" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|cylinder-head|cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29108" CreationDate="2016-04-29T06:03:41.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's completely normal, nothing to worry about&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simply the gap between the sleeves.  If you look from above, straight down, you will see a straight edge cut into the outside diameter of the metal sleeves that are pressed into the aluminum cylinder block.  The straight edge is there so the sleeves can co-exist in close proximity without encroaching into the other sleeves diameter.  They are rarely perfectly aligned because it's not important that they are.  The goal is that they can just sit next to each other after being pressed into the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is case on Kawasaki's, Honda's, Suzuki's and Yamaha's going back to their first inline fours in the late 60's and 70's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will have no effect on your performance.  It's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T06:03:41.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29065" CreationDate="2016-04-29T07:20:18.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't spend any more money replacing oil until you have got the engine running again.  Take the plugs out and check if they are covered in oil.  Make a note of which plug came out of which cylinder so you know which cylinder had the oily plug if there is one.  With all the plugs out, turn the engine over with the starter to blow any oil out of the cylinder.  I would then check the compression of each cylinder using a compression tester. If you have damaged one or more pistons, this should identify which ones. If everything looks OK, clean the plugs and put them back in and try to start the engine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T07:20:18.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29107" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:23:43.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a very easy topic.  You are going to want to figure this stuff out for yourself and then do some testing to verify your design assumptions work the way you think they will.    For the max steering angle you should be able to get that from different tractor manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly if it were me, I'd be grabbing a tape measure, a set of old skool trammel points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HH2Cf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HH2Cf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trammel points&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a digital camera, a pair of coveralls, a bright safety vest and a pair of safety glasses and a clipboard and head over to your favorite fleet or construction truck yard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety gear says you're serious and professional about your business.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trammel points make it MUCH easier to determine distance between two points in 3D. I use them a lot to create after the fact accurate 3D CAD models of car and motorcycle layouts for custom parts. They would be invaluable for modeling a truck 3D steering geometry.  Generally I use Solidworks for the CAD modeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell the manager what you want to do, ask permission.  It really HELPS to bring along a dozen donuts and coffee before you arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily measure most geometry on a stationary truck (engine off) and recalculate everything you will need to know.  The only thing that might be tough is to figure out maximum steering motion.  On many trucks you can figure that out from grease tracks &amp;amp; wear marks, but not always.  Often the steering on large trucks has physical stops that mark the ends of steering travel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say (and you're going to laugh at this) a nice piece of analysis on steering systems is something I found by Peter Verdone on skateboard truck analysis.  His explanation of different steering axes really helped me understand how this stuff works.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_skateboards_turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link.&lt;/a&gt;   When you get into the details, its not as easy as you think it's going to be.  And a tractor trailer will have even more complications.  Excel spreadsheets are your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note too, there are a whole bunch of different configurations out there.  Probably best to grab two or three and use them as examples.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T08:23:43.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:41:23.260" Score="16" ViewCount="3926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently run in to trouble with my Vauxhall Corsa 1.2 2013. I broke down the other day after a huge cloud of white smoke out the exhaust followed by a severe loss of power. The AA came had a look and said that the smoke I saw was the oil burning out, this must have been all of it as I topped it up 2-3 weeks prior. They towed me to a garage and they tried replacing the ignition coil and the spark plugs as they believed this to be the solution, it wasn't as the car still had no power and went through the oil again. The mechanics said they didn't know what could be causing it and suggested a new engine to be the solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is has anyone come across this sort of issue before and/or does anyone know what the issue/resolution would be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16987" LastEditorUserId="14606" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:33:55.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:33:55.330" Title="Why has my car burnt through all the oil?" Tags="|engine|oil|vauxhall|smoke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T10:57:15.847" Score="6" ViewCount="3986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently a first year apprentice and building my tool kit as I go. I see often larger socket sets include 1/2&quot; drive sockets ranging from 8 or 10mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that 1/2&quot; drive sockets of that size would be useful? I understand that larger drive ratchets are stronger and can withstand more torque force, as well as allow for more torque due to longer handles, but wouldn't using such a large drive on fasteners that are that small be inappropriate and possibly detrimental if 1/4&quot; or 3/8&quot; are available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another reason I am missing? Any answer is appreciated, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T13:16:40.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T20:49:29.137" Title="Uses of small sized 1/2&quot; drive sockets" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:14:22.607" Score="5" ViewCount="6877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some data on sending 0202 command (Mode $02, PID 02). It is the freeze frame data. I don't understand why does anyone need the data? Do anyone (including mechanics) ever open Freeze frame data? What will one do knowing that when MIL appeared, the car speed was 0 kmph, rpm was 1200 rpm, AFR was 14.7 etc.&#xA;Can I conclude anything from the freeze frame data that I get that would help me diagnosing the fault code that appears?&#xA;I am really unable to understand the importance of the data.&#xA;Can someone please help me understand if the data is at all useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T03:18:36.760" Title="Mode 02 - Freeze frame data use" Tags="|obd-ii|mil|obd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29114" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:45:42.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Convenience, mainly! Lots of small parts such as covers are held on with small bolts, and it means you can cover the full range of useful sizes with just one set, should you so wish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:45:42.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:49:50.917" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is burning it's oil, the oil is getting somewhere it shouldn't do - and changing the plugs and coil will make no difference to that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the oil smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that suggests to me that the oil is getting into the cylinders - the most likely causes for this are a blown headgasket, failed valve stem seals, or failed piston rings. A compression test should tell you which cylinders have failed, but it's probably an engine-apart job to fix it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:49:50.917" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29115" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:50:15.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the fault code that popped the MIL is tremendously useful by itself, freeze frame data offers huge help, as it allows you to see the exact conditions under which the engine decided that there is a fault. You will know at what RPM the code was popped, what the engine load was, whether the engine was warm and in closed loop mode, if it was overheating, whether the air pressure/volume was normal, what the fuel trims were, etc. All of this can save a lot of headache to the mechanic who is diagnosing a fault that isn't obvious or is intermittent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a cylinder misfire code. Well, the engine misfires, not very helpful, is it? However freeze frame data will help you determine what exactly was going on when this happened - for example if it only happens under maximum throttle and load then the reason for it could be completely different than would be at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T14:58:50.550" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:58:50.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:59:18.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd combine the answers from @Jphi1618 and @Jsn - use a Dremel or similar to cut almost all the way through - up one side, across the top and back down the other side. You can then use a screwdriver or a nut splitter to split the cap in half - hopefully without having to cut far enough to ruin the threads on the stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some damage to the threads will be fine, and most of the time you don't really need caps anyway, unless you're driving through mud or in a really dusty environment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:59:18.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-29T12:48:24.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;in response to the original question: &quot;are modern cars safer then classic cars&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;firefighter here&lt;/em&gt;) simple answer: Yes. A lot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;structure&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;em&gt;much more stable&lt;/em&gt; and deforms pretty much less in an accident (for example, cutting the struts of an old car takes 2-3 secs, a modern BMW about 15 secs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airbags. A lot more, also on the side etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt-release system that doesn't block completely and therefore decelerates you slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience as a firefighter (in the road rescue squad), this seems to be the main differences. Accidents still happen and car crumbles, but there is a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; difference between old and new cars (as well as cheap and &quot;expensive&quot; ones).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This were only the &quot;damage-reduction&quot; systems. I have not mentioned all the automatic brake systems, ABS etc which help to prevent accidents&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just watch some videos of car-crash tests. You will see the difference;)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;If you are after more detailed answers, please read the other answers or ask in the comment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16990" LastEditorUserId="16990" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T20:59:45.160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T20:59:45.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29114" CreationDate="2016-04-29T13:24:09.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have to start somewhere and need a complete set to do your job, having the 1/2&quot; drive go down to the 8mm size helps you to do this without having to buy the smaller set. If you can get the complete job done with a single set of sockets, you won't need to get the 3/8&quot; and 1/4&quot; drive sets &lt;em&gt;yet&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working professionally, having the different sized sets makes a lot of sense. Sometimes it allows you to get to the smaller fasteners which may be in smaller areas, but for the most part, the 1/2&quot; will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting out, you'll need a set, as I stated. You can range down using a 1/2&quot; drive to get something small, but try loosening a fastener with a 7/8&quot; head using a 1/4&quot; drive ... it's not going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T13:24:09.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T13:55:26.220" Score="4" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car dies while driving and won't start back up - turn key no clicking no nothing - all gauges and lights light up - battery charged . Can jump across starter and it starts and dies. One mechanic says bad starter - auto parts store says starter passes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16993" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T13:55:26.220" Title="06 Cobalt - Car dies while driving and won't start back up" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-05-05T15:02:59.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-04-29T13:59:01.487" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's not the oil my friend. I had the same problem with my diesel 2008 fiesta. A huge white smoke comes from the exhaust and when you see it first, you think that the car is burning! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is with the gas injector in the engine. It costs about 400$ in Turkey, but in your region it depends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should immediately bring it to the service otherwise your engines pistons may be damaged and it will cost much more than the injector problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16994" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T13:59:01.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29115" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:02:46.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;They help us home in on what might be the root cause&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maybe an example would help explain why freeze frames are so useful&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;code&gt;P0300&lt;/code&gt; freeze frame from that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/17437/675&quot;&gt;infamous Merc GLK280&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+-----------------------------------------+-------------+&#xA;| Fuel System 1 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 2 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 1 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Fuel System 2 status                    |           1 |&#xA;| Calculated load value                   |      23.14% |&#xA;| Engine coolant temperature              |        49 C |&#xA;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1          |      11.72% |&#xA;| Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2         |          0% |&#xA;| Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2          |       7.03% |&#xA;| Intake manifold absolute pressure       |      28 kPa |&#xA;| Engine RPM                              | 1293.75 RPM |&#xA;| Vehicle speed                           |     17 km/h |&#xA;| Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder |    42.5 deg |&#xA;| Intake air temperature                  |        46 C |&#xA;| Mass air flow rate                      |    5.63 g/s |&#xA;| Absolute throttle position              |      13.33% |&#xA;| Time since engine start                 |      26 sec |&#xA;| Fuel rail pressure                      |     380 kPa |&#xA;| Commanded evaporative purge             |          0% |&#xA;| Fuel level input                        |      45.49% |&#xA;| Barometric pressure                     |      99 kPa |&#xA;| Control module voltage                  |     13.29 V |&#xA;| Absolute load value                     |      17.25% |&#xA;| Fuel/Air commanded equivalence ratio    |        1.54 |&#xA;| Relative throttle position              |       1.96% |&#xA;| Ambient air temperature                 |        36 C |&#xA;| Absolute throttle position B            |      12.94% |&#xA;| Accelerator pedal postion D             |       6.27% |&#xA;| Accelerator pedal postion E             |       6.27% |&#xA;| Commanded throttle actuator control     |       2.75% |&#xA;+-----------------------------------------+-------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are a few of the questions that I was trying to answer when digesting the freeze frame data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Hmmm, the car's misfiring. That usually means a lean mixture, which could be caused by a whole bunch of things&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under what circumstances did the CEL get triggered? The engine was running for just 26 seconds, so is there a cold-start issue going on here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a lack of signal from a vital sensor like MAF/MAP?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was the car in open-loop mode or closed-loop mode when the CEL appeared?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was there a real lean condition, or does the engine management &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that there is a lean condition?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How was fuel pressure? Is it lower than expected? That could indicate a possible fuel starvation issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why are those fuel trims so high? Is there a vacuum leak that we need to hunt down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The calculated load value is low, so the leak should be relatively easy to uncover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freeze frame data by itself won't be of much use without someone interpreting the data. As with all tools, its usefulness will be determined by how it is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T15:46:16.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:51:30.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's a 1.2 I'm betting it's petrol, so you don't have some of the issues that diesels suffer from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White smoke is often water.  Grey/black smoke will be oil.  Either way, something is getting into the combustion chambers which really shouldn't be there.  My money is on the head gasket, because that can fail in a fairly on/off kind of way, but as other posts have said, there are other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you want to find a better garage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:51:30.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T15:23:19.763" Score="11" ViewCount="10902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one very interesting question. I would like to purchase new Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.6 2015-2016. I found new car in official dealer store. But there is one problem - These cars were constructed in Mexico for Turkey. For some reason they were denied in Turkey and moved for selling to Ukraine. This car is cheaper than cars constructed for Ukraine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard that there is some difference between cars for hot countries and European countries. I mean special features like seat heater and engine coolant, etc. And here is the question. Is that true? Will this car's engine work fine in Ukraine climate at winter (may be -20 C degrees)? Will it be warm inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there Volkswagen support to answer this question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16995" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T18:05:55.107" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T19:05:31.213" Title="Is there a difference in cars manufactured for hot or cold climates?" Tags="|engine|vw|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29114" CreationDate="2016-04-29T15:27:27.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Having a 1/2&quot; drive 8mm socket will get in your way more than it will prove useful.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim of the socket that fits on the bolt will be too think for you to fit onto an 8mm bolt head time and time again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you don't wrench on smaller engines very much, then you won't run into issues as often.  If you encountered this clutch cover that size socket will not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtkyX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtkyX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a 1/4&quot; or 3/8&quot; drive socket from time to time with smaller and tighter components that you need to remove and having a giant 1/2&quot; drive socket will hinder you from being successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stop 12mm 1/2&quot; sockets.  Any smaller an your potentially wasting your money and buttonholing yourself into 1/2&quot; ratchets that won't work for you in tighter circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a reason that 1/2&quot; drive sockets of that size would be useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely.  They will be frequently burdensome and prevent you from accomplishing your goal in tight places.  As well, the giant 1/2&quot; will also prevent removal of small bolts in tight places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T20:49:29.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T20:49:29.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2016-04-29T15:39:15.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that just swapping the coolant and potentially installing a block heater would be good enough, even if there were differences.  Like purchasing any other vehicle, though, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have it inspected, and make sure that it runs without issue prior to purchasing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16669" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T15:39:15.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2016-04-29T15:42:13.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine will be fine - cars are designed to work in all conditions anywhere in the world. VW has a testing center that can theoretically test their cars and engines to work from -40 to 150C (saves on flying development cars to Finland and the Sahara)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be some differences in the car trim levels; for example, cars in hot countries probably wouldn't come with block heaters, while cars destined for cold countries wouldn't come with air conditioning (don't fact-check this, it's just an example!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with a car from a different area could be lights - e.g if I was in the UK and purchased a car in France, all the lights would be biased to the wrong side, because the UK drives on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, I'd talk to the dealer, and make sure that the car has a full warranty. Ask them about a block heater if you feel you need one - and negotiate for it if one is not already fitted. I think with full dealer support, you have little to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T15:42:13.413" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29133" CreationDate="2016-04-29T16:24:53.120" Score="9" ViewCount="4098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a huge dent in my front passenger door from where I was attacked by an elk.  This dent has been in the door for probably 12 months as I previously did not care that it was there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would like the dent removed, what is the most effective home remedy for dent removal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16999" LastEditorUserId="11892" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T01:18:19.973" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T19:43:46.460" Title="Dent removal from passenger door" Tags="|car|door|dent|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29132" CreationDate="2016-04-29T16:58:15.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roll the window up and pull the door panel, using various sized wood sticks (long ones for leverage) attempt to push or massage out as much of the dent as possible. You can gently use a hammer on the end of the wood stick to help with the stubborn parts, once you have done all you can do from inside pull the rest of the dent as best you can using a &lt;strong&gt;Dent puller&lt;/strong&gt;. It's up to you how far you want to go and make it look good with body filler and paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes working the dent from inside the door is good enough for most people on a budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARYtu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARYtu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T05:56:45.907" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T05:56:45.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:11:21.303" Score="4" ViewCount="28677" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Mercury Grand Marquis ....... My car sounds and feels like wants to shut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started yesterday - I was leaving a friends house and was about 2 lights away from home when i felt this weird jerk and then i heard a clink and something fell from the car. I drove slowly the rest of the way home with no over heating or nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I popped my hood and one of my heater hoses was bad. Well, not the hose but the PVC valve from filter hole was melted from inside. I had duck taped it and it's been fine for the last 6 months, but that had now come off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an aftermarket intake from K&amp;amp;N, so I took all of it off, checked the hoses, and put it back in. I used the same old melted PVC valve but no tape - instead used a grommet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned the car on and it kinda sounds like battery is dead but I put in reverse and it sounds and feels like it wants to shut off.  I put it in drive and same thing so I turn it off quick. I don't want to do anymore damage than there is already...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and I almost forgot right before the jerk and the thing that fell from car I put gas in the car then this happened 20 minutes later. I use a lot of gas booster(?) bottles you find at gas station. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps diagnose my problem. Please someone help, this car is all I have. I love my car. Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16998" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T22:22:43.153" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T02:59:45.490" Title="Car sounds and feels like wants to shut off" Tags="|fuel-system|rough-idle|mercury|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:46:37.993" Score="4" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2003 Chevy Impala 3.4L, with just over 200,000mi on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the oil, it hadn't been on the road in about a month. My wife and I had a race a few days ago with her in the Impala and I was in my Golf. She was driving it hard and this morning when I started the Impala I hear a very loud ticking sound, and the engine shakes.  It bogs out when I give it gas and runs terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I check or what could we have damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17002" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:55:13.710" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:55:13.710" Title="Engine running rough after spirited driving" Tags="|engine|noise|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T17:25:14.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:15:37.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire that &lt;strong&gt;HAD&lt;/strong&gt; a similar issue. After having been looked at by far too many people, one mechanic figured out how to recreate the issue by pouring water on a certain part of the engine while running (sorry I'm not sure where exactly), but even that didn't shed much light on the issue since it was supposed to be acceptable to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually all they could come up with was that the fuel injectors needed cleaning. Even though this seemed unlikely, I went with it because nobody else could come up with anything and they needed it anyways. It fixed the issue!!! Perhaps they bumped something doing it. It seems like complete voodoo to me, but it did in fact fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16642" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T19:15:37.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29132" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:27:41.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/27102/12030&quot;&gt;another recent answer&lt;/a&gt; one good method for paint-less dent repair (which is really the only DIY type of dent repair) is to use glue on plastic dent tabs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZOaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These come in different &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/28476/12030&quot;&gt;shapes and size&lt;/a&gt; for differently shaped dents and are applied to the dented area with non-maring hot glue.  They are pulled with a handle or &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/29133/12030&quot;&gt;slide hammer&lt;/a&gt; and can be peeled off once the pulling is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T19:27:41.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:38:00.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been involved in several aspects of the old car world since the early 70's. This subject has come up more and more in the last maybe, ten years and I have spent alot of time pondering it and my involvement in historic racing has given me additional perspective on the subject I think. The basic answer is no, older cars are not safe as newer stuff for a few really important reasons. 1st, older cars (pre 69 ) are full of sharp edges in the interior - a death trap in an accident if you are thrown around inside. The use, in period, of lap belts cause their own problems. the seat can fold forward in certain kinds of impacts and serious injuries - spinal or simply face into steering wheel can result. The installation of fixed or locking seat backs with shoulder harnesses can help but not easily engineered on most older cars. Braking distance can be significantly longer in old cars. here in LA where folks drive inches from the car in front doesn't help much. You might say &quot;leave more room in front&quot; ...I have done this and other drivers just nip into the big space that you have left for them. Another issue that I have noticed as a racer is that the curb weight of modern cars is in some cases 50% more than old ones (no, not Lincolns and Cadillacs but smaller sporty cars) a modern Mazda Miata weights more than a Ford Falcon. This changes your bargaining power in just about any collision if you are the person in the old car. Well, that's my short list!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17006" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T19:38:00.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29144" CreationDate="2016-04-29T20:37:08.773" Score="19" ViewCount="147282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu and have replaced the engine coolant in it twice in the last six months after the low coolant warning light came on, and the light has recently come on again.  The climate is mild here so there's no risk of freezing, and I do keep an eye on the temperature gauge - it doesn't seem to go very far above 180 degrees F in steady-state, which is about 10 degrees above where it sits with full coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to continue driving with low coolant as long as I continue to watch the temperature gauge?  If not, what are the potential risks involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a week or so after my original post, I decided to refill the coolant reservoir yet again and hope for the best.  Not 48 hours later, I was on my way up a hill and suddenly the temperature gauge spiked up to the red line.  I immediately stopped driving and had my car towed to the nearest repair shop.  Turns out the intake manifold gasket had failed which was causing the leak. Fortunately there was no damage to the engine, but unfortunately the manifold is apparently very inaccessible in the 2001 Malibu, requiring more time to replace it.  $1600 and 24 hours later (which included a coolant flush and two oil changes, the first of which was to clear out coolant contamination), my car was running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17008" LastEditorUserId="17008" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T06:37:30.970" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T06:37:30.970" Title="Is it Safe to Drive With Low Engine Coolant?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:00:35.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you do need to find out where the coolant is going.  There is UV dye that can help with this, and if your car is smoking, that could be a sign that the coolant is leaking &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the engine rather than on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the main question, &quot;Is it safe&quot;, as long as you keep an eye on the temperature and it's not getting too high, you should be OK in the short term.  The problem is that as you loose coolant, you also loose the ability to cool (sounds obvious, but worth saying).  Then what happens when you get stuck in traffic on a hot day?  Also, there will come a point when the coolant gets too low to properly circulate.  Getting air into the system could severely affect the water pump's ability to circulate, then things heat up quickly.  This could leave you stranded, and could also lead to engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend adding coolant as soon as the light comes on.  The warning light is there just for that purpose - to let you know you really should add some coolant before it starts to get &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; low.  Keeping a jug of coolant in the trunk doesn't seem like a insurmountable issue, so do that and add a little when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T21:00:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7617" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:10:51.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The car usually has trouble starting on the first try. It'll start and&#xA;  immediately stall. If it's warm out, I can pump the gas pedal once and&#xA;  it starts up fine. Otherwise, it might take a couple more tries and I&#xA;  have to let it warm up for 30 sec. to a minute before I can drive off&#xA;  (otherwise it stalls as soon as I put it in gear and push on the gas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is probably running a bit lean on cold days due to the intake manifold being ice cold. As it heats up, the intake air thins out and the car is back to normal again. This doesn't happen with fuel injected cars because they adjust the fuel to compensate for temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't agree that you would hear arcing at all. I had a piece of metal in my trunk that was hitting the battery and it arced so much that it it actually plasma cut into the piece of metal. Despite this, all I got was some sporadic ignition failure. No sounds. Which leads me to the actual answer, which I have experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did these bangs happen at mid-high vacuum? My hunch is that the crack sound is just a misfire out the back. The fuel/air mixture gets sucked through the engine like normal but fails to combust due to being too thin. It absorbs heat as it passes through the head and exhaust tubing and then BANG it hits the air and combusts sometimes. The black smoke is when it doesn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my car, I know that below a certain amount of manifold pressure (30kpa on my car, 100kpa being atmospheric pressure) the fuel/air mixture can't reliably combust. There is an option in my ecu to disable all fuel injection below a certain manifold pressure but if you set the threshold too high, it will cause continuous misfiring when you lift off the throttle. A carburetor-equipped car won't ever disable the fuel flow like this because it's just a simple mechanical device for metering fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T21:10:51.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:12:48.680" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you do not have any leaks&lt;/strong&gt;, then your coolant is most likely getting burned and/or going into your oil. My guess is going to be a problem with your head gasket or some crack or warping in the head.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe coolant in oil used to turn oil more brown and make it more foamy or milky. These days, the detergents and dispersants in modern oil can reduce those appearance effects and can be harder to spot visually. You might be able to smell the sweet antifreeze smell in the oil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Water in oil usually will end up evaporating out of the pcv. Glycol in oil will not boil away like water and will form acids and affect your oil. This wears out your oil and can cause sludge buildup and corrosion in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low coolant will cause overheating and can cause stress on the water pump. Low coolant that is topped off can cause overheating due to trapped air in the system. Any overheating can cause cracks or warping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would probably just keep driving it until it dies completely, as long as I dont really care about the engine that much and plan on buying another car afterwards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would also be doing the following:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of relying on the low coolant warning or the temperature gauge to see how your coolant level is doing, &quot;proactively&quot; check your coolant at least once a month (or like every week) and top it off. Of course still keep an eye on the temperature gauge in case of any issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also change your oil more often. If your normal usage of the vehicle is full of very short trips, then you need to change the oil &lt;em&gt;even more&lt;/em&gt; often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this ignores the source of your problems (whatever is allowing the coolant to leak), you can mitigate damages and prolong useful life of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4212" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T21:12:48.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29134" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:14:45.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel, Air and spark in the right amounts and at the right times are what makes an engine purr. In your car there is an engine computer that controls these things (unless you are talking pre 1983 or so...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally problems involving fuel will set an OnBoard Diagnostics (OBD) code.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air issues are not all that common, and generally come from a totally blocked air filter.  Not all that likely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark issues won't always set a code.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, when I hear your words &quot;it sounds and feels like it wants to shut off&quot; as the engine is idling too low.  My guess is one of the cylinders isn't getting enough spark.  (bad plug or bad spark plug wires..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But.. with your description of things falling off, things repaired six months ago with duct tape and hose issues, etc, there may well be other items in need of repair.  I'm thinking this car should probably be evaluated by a repair facility / mechanic to get a comprehensive list of things that may need fixing or preventative maintenance.  It would also be nice to see what engine codes are stored in the engine control computer.  Any mechanic can read these codes and in some places the autoparts stores will read the codes for you for free.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn how to do this stuff yourself, first stop should be to an autoparts store to pick up a service manual. Look at the books from either Chiltons or Haynes. New = $30  (You might also check places like ebay of $$$ is tight.)  You will want to buy the manual for your car model and year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual will tell you how your car works, and what to do if something goes wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it.  You might report back here after a mechanic makes an assessment of things to fix.  Folks here are happy to offer advice on actually making repairs (and saving $$)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T21:14:45.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-04-29T22:45:45.840" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Is it safe to continue driving with low coolant as long as I continue to watch the temperature gauge? &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the temp sensor reads coolant temperature, if the coolant gets low enough to be below the temp sensor, now the sensor is reading metal temperature of the area it is screwed into (usually cylinder head), by the time it reads too hot on the gauge the motor is toast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made lots of money off of people doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T22:45:45.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2016-04-29T22:47:25.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New cars are good in hot or cold like others have said .Most old american stuff is good because the USA has big temperature extremes .Car manufacturers wanted the cars to go to Texas or Canada .Old British cars were primarilary designed for the British Isles .When they went to warmer climates like NZ and Australia there were overheating problems .Some British engines had smaller cooling passages which might have been fine in liverpool but not in Darwin .Such engines have been shown to be good in boats .Early BMC front wheel drive stuff had the rediators pointing at the front wheel which made overheating bad .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T22:47:25.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-04-30T00:49:38.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't see any obvious signs of leaks, or steam coming from anywhere if you run the engine, a likely cause is a cracked cylinder head gasket, which is letting the coolant into the cylinders and out of the tail pipe as steam. That could soon cause a lot more damage than the hassle carrying a water container in the car to top up the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal story to back up what @Moab said: I once had a radiator blow while driving. The coolant temperature sensor didn't move. (The car didn't have a coolant level sensor). The first I knew of the problem was when I put the car out of gear to stop at a crossroads, and the engine immediately stopped and seized solid. Fixing that meant a complete new set of conrods and pistons, as well as a new radiator!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T00:49:38.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29149" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:16:03.540" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;My check engine light was on, so I went to an O'Reiley's to buy a diagnostic tool. Basically, they had two versions of the same brand: one that just checked the engine codes and gave you the translation, and one that could read codes and also delete them that cost almost $30 more. After asking a friend, he confirmed that the same basic pricing structure exists across most diagnostic tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this the case? Is there a specific reason that erasing codes has to cost so much extra money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17016" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T02:55:04.497" Title="Why does a diagnostic tool that can erase messages cost so much more?" Tags="|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29148" CreationDate="2016-04-30T02:55:04.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A read command is the same for all OEM's. The clear command is not. It is supposed to be but there are differences particularly in the early years of OBD11. It has to be tweaked and checked for many different models.  Also any command that asks the PCM change its state requires much more care than a read only request. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used cheap scanners that did some really weird things when the clear code command was sent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T02:55:04.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29115" CreationDate="2016-04-30T03:18:36.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We find FF so useful that we retain it on the customers invoice in case the same code sets later.  It is also very helpful when used in conjunction with a test drive on intermittent faults. It tells exactly how to duplicate the conditions under which the fault set. There are times when its limit of setting on only one code is frustrating because it is not always available on the code that is of the most interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example: It makes all the difference on Honda V-tec codes. If the code set at an rpm below normal on command we know the problem is with the fault feedback system not the system itself. If the code sets above normal actuation rpm we know to test the v-tec actuation system. FF is often the way we know what part to replace because these faults are so intermittent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 80% of the time it is not needed. But when it is needed it can make all the difference between a happy customer and a comeback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T03:18:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29132" CreationDate="2016-04-30T03:53:26.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes an unopened can of beans wrapped around a tshirt works wonders. Just roll it slowly and softly over the dent for a little bit. It should start to com out slowly. If you feel lucky, you can use a heat gun to heat the sheetmetal from the inside out (the inside of the door with no paint) and then roll the can. It works, but you need to be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if the dent has any sharp creases you are SOL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T03:53:26.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T05:12:30.187" Score="3" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Needed to get a smog check so I went to Auto Zone to find out why the check engine light was on. The code indicated that the MAP sensor needed to be replaced. So I replaced it and reset the computer by disconnecting the negative from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started the car it sputtered and shut off when I turned the air conditioner on. The check engine light also flashes as I drive and I believe that indicates a misfire. Before replacing the sensor the car ran fine. I replaced the new sensor with the old one and still the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of loss as to what to do next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17019" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-20T17:47:15.693" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:47:15.693" Title="2004 Isuzu Ascender Sputtering and Possibly Misfiring" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|isuzu|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28051" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:07:17.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mode 6 decode algorithms and databases, to the best of my knowledge, are only available to those scan tool makers who subscribe to the NASTF system.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nastf.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NASTF.org&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; This is an industry organization that acts a go between the OEM's and the tool makers. Many tool makers are not members and those who make clones are not accepted into the group. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mode 6 data is not standardized in any way, every OEM reports the data differently. Some report lots of data for every model, others, very little. As with everything scan data it changes, and gets better as OBD11 matured. It was not required to be accurate until 2006. Before that it is very spotty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OEM tech websites that I have access to do not have Mode 6 decode data.&#xA;Some scanners are much better than others at decoding and presenting the data. The best generic I have seen is the scanner made by Automotive Test Solutions. I have not found a cheap scanner that does this well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ford does a great job with Mode 6 and even adds some neat features like a misfire graph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T20:44:49.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T20:44:49.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:19:43.007" Score="3" ViewCount="3609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a broken outer door handle for the driver door of my Nissan Teana 2007 model. I replaced it but the mechanic who was working on it broke another thing and he didnt seem to know how to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for the driver door (right side in NZ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, when I am inside the car and open the door using the inside door handle, it opens normally, but, when I lock the car using the remote and unlock it, it doesnt open from the outside anymore, although the lock button is on the &quot;unlocked&quot; position from the inside. If I open the inside door handle, even if I dont go all the way to open the door from the inside, just half way through, I can hear a click in the door near the locking mechanisim and then I can open it using the outer door handle. Afterwards, unless I lock the door again, I can use the outer door handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what might be the issue here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17024" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T01:49:45.660" Title="Nissan door does not open from outside" Tags="|nissan|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29167" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:27:44.170" Score="3" ViewCount="6184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015 Civic EX (6000 miles). It's revving 2000/2500/3000RPM at 70/80/90MPH on flat ground. However, it's having 3000RPM at 60MPH when going uphill and EVERYONE was passing me by (Except for the trucks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the engine is making noisy sound at 3000RPM already, is it good for my car to go over 3000RPM if I want it to last longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17023" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T09:44:10.200" Title="Why does my car engine rev so fast when running uphill" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T10:01:36.913" Score="4" ViewCount="4494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with the use of air intercoolers/charge air coolers to cool the intake charge (usually on turbocharged engines). But this BMW engine seems to use liquid to cool the intake charge. Which liquid is used (water?) and how exactly is it managed? Certainly looks pretty nifty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sl6qV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sl6qV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T16:10:10.270" Title="What is the liquid used in the 2014 M3 charge air cooler?" Tags="|bmw|intercooler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-04-30T10:09:58.213" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Its not good to run with low coolant, even worse to run with no coolant.&lt;/strong&gt;  Actually it can be quite disastrous (possibilities include blown head gaskets, seized pistons and a number of expensive repairs), but many times this is a result of a leaky radiator cap which is easy (and cheap) to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone already mentioned the &lt;strong&gt;dyes for detecting leaks&lt;/strong&gt;, but you can usually tell if it is the radiator cap just by opening the hood after a long drive (if you can't see it, you can feel it - just be careful not to burn your self)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try replacing the radiator cap&lt;/strong&gt; and just in case &lt;strong&gt;keep a gallon of distilled water to top it off as needed&lt;/strong&gt; (add corresponding amount of antifreeze when you get home).  As a bonus, you'll have a source of water in case something does happen and you need to take a long walk :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't just monitor the temperature gauge, &lt;strong&gt;check the coolant level when possible until you figure out the approximate leak rate&lt;/strong&gt;.  Do you need to top it off daily, weekly or monthly?  If it gets to daily and replacing the cap doesn't fix it, you'll have to look for a leak (to weld, patch or otherwise repair) or replace the radiator (typically &amp;lt; $100 at various online shops)  Fortunately since it is imperative that the radiator gets good air flow, it is one of the easiest parts to get to and usually relatively simple to replace (If you can change your own oil, you can probably replace the radiator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't jump the gun and put leak repair in the coolant&lt;/strong&gt;, it may fix the leak, but its repeated use can build up and reduce the cooling capacity of the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13804" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T10:09:58.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29155" CreationDate="2016-04-30T12:56:04.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a broken or dislodged linkage in the lock mechanism. If you remove the door card (the interior door trim), you should be able to get at it, and reconnect or replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T12:56:04.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T13:45:28.140" Score="5" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2012 Honda Accord that I would like to install a radio transceiver in. At peak, its current draw is 22A @ 13.8VDC. Generally, the wisdom is that it should be connected directly to the battery (e.g., from the radio's manual). I generally know my way around electronics, but I don't know a lot about cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some looking under the hood, and I noticed that the negative terminal is connected directly and exclusively to the chassis, so I think that connecting the negative lead of my radio to a good chassis ground in the trunk (where I plan to mount it) should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive lead is a bit trickier, and I've come up with 3 options of where to connect it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Directly to the positive terminal of the battery.&lt;/strong&gt; My gut feeling is that this is no good; for starters it has the protective cap and is covered in grease, and all of the vehicle wiring goes out via a single line to the engine compartment fuse box/directly to the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminals in the fuse box.&lt;/strong&gt; I opened up the fuse box and noticed two terminals that I could attach to. These would certainly be easier to access (not covered in grease + protective cap), and they're closer to the grommet in the firewall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Somewhere completely different.&lt;/strong&gt; :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that my car has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civicforums.com/forums/21-i-c-e-electrical/159859-meet-your-eld-electrical-load-detector.html&quot;&gt;ELD device&lt;/a&gt; that helps control the battery, so I want to make sure I'm not doing anything bad in that regard, and also make sure the radio is getting the appropriate voltage. The leads already have an inline fuse box, so I'm not to worried about that aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary: &lt;strong&gt;where is the appropriate place to connect the leads of this device?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T14:12:53.697" Title="How should I properly connect a high-current accessory?" Tags="|honda|electrical|battery|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29165" CreationDate="2016-04-30T13:57:24.660" Score="3" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Toyota Vitz 2007 (automatic transmission), I have facing a problem for about a week now. The problem is, sometimes when I press the accelerator, engine revs up but car does not accelerate much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I release the accelerator and pressed again, the vehicle catches up and accelerates. The problem is more apparent when I am going up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there had been another problem for some time now, that is, when I accelerate from a complete stop, car sometimes accelerates with 2 or 3 quick jerks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed transmission fluid about 20,000 km (about 2 years) ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to check transmission fluid level in my car? I can't see any dipstick similar to the one for checking engine oil level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my engine wiring harness has some problems and I have soldered several broken wires. Mostly due to this, the car idles roughly. I am looking for a new aftermarket wiring harness these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the wiring harness problem have a relation to the acceleration problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T12:30:52.157" Title="Engine revs without much acceleration" Tags="|toyota|transmission|vitz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29164" CreationDate="2016-04-30T14:09:06.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the wiring harness problem have a relation to the acceleration problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, if it is an electronic transmission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to check transmission fluid level in my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with that model but some can only be checked if the vehicle is on a lift, manufacturers have started removing the usual transmission dip sticks and replacing them with really short ones than can only be accessed while on a lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slipping of an automatic transmission is not good and will do further damage if you keep driving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T14:09:06.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29163" CreationDate="2016-04-30T14:12:53.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuse box is good on a Honda, choose the terminal where the source cable is connected directly to the battery, be sure to use an in line fuse (30A) on your wire. Use #10 wire to connect your accessory to the terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T14:12:53.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29156" CreationDate="2016-04-30T14:25:21.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely your Honda has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotrader.com/car-info/definitions-continuously-variable-transmission-cvt-211130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CVT transmission&lt;/a&gt; and this is normal behavior for a computer controlled CVT, to let it rev higher when under a load such as driving up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T14:25:21.967" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T16:56:32.607" Score="9" ViewCount="22254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car stereo head unit that I'd like to repurpose as a radio for my garage. Given that, I'm looking for some kind of power adapter / transformer that I can plug into a wall outlet and splice into the stereo harness. Presumably this would need to convert from 120VAC to 12VDC, but I'm not sure what I'd need as far as amperage goes. If it's relevant, the stereo was on a 10 amp fuse when it was in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use computer power supply units, the big 350 W guys, but that seems like major overkill here especially since I'm only looking for the 12v and wouldn't need the other wires from a PSU like the 3.3v and 5v lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10092" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T21:41:24.717" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T21:41:24.717" Title="Where can I find a power adapter to run a car stereo from a wall outlet?" Tags="|electrical|power|wiring|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T18:13:19.240" Score="4" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Taurus started to make a grinding noise in the front. When I looked at it I could see the ABS reluctor ring was grinding on the lower ball joint. My plan is to replace the axles/reluctor rings, but I was wondering if this may be from the struts weakening or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17035" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T19:36:15.327" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T19:36:15.327" Title="2000 Ford Taurus ABS reluctor ring grinding on lower ball joint" Tags="|ford|suspension|abs|taurus|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20874" CreationDate="2016-04-30T18:13:56.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be it known that I, Joseph A. Williams, a citizen of the United States, residing in Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Ignition Apparaatus….&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US1092417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. Patent #1,092,417&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That coil was used on model T Fords here are a little bits of info you might like complete with a link for you to further read up on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1907 the K-W Ignition Company of Cleveland, Ohio had attempted to persuade the Ford Motor Company to adopt their magneto for the Ford Models N, R and S. Although K-W’s attempt was unsuccessful, it appears that Joseph A. Williams, president of K-W, continued to look for opportunities to hitch K-W Ignition Company's wagon to Ford Motor’s rising star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the adoption of ignition coils manufactured by the K-W Ignition Company in late 1912 or early 1913 the Ford Motor Company began a business relationship with K-W that would last almost fifteen years. While both companies prospered during the tenure of the relationship, there were times when difficulties arose between them. The most serious difficulty arose over Joseph Williams’ patent on the design of the K-W coil. Here is what is known of the story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtfca.com/coils/Coils.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mtfca.com/coils/Coils.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:30:43.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T20:55:01.157" Score="5" ViewCount="3598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no mechanic and I'm stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1996 2.3L Ford Ranger.  I replaced The clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing.  I then got the transmission put back into place.  Once I attached the shifter knob I noticed that I can't put the transmission into any gear with the engine off.  I then attached the slave cylinder and attempted to engage the clutch and shift.  Still no avail.  If I depress the clutch it is firm and if and look through the dust cover underneath I can see that the bearing is moving about an inch or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17036" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T21:10:09.590" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T06:22:55.630" Title="96 Ranger. I replaced the clutch. Now it won't go into gear" Tags="|ford|clutch|manual-transmission|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29212" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:21:08.103" Score="13" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short: I managed to break the spider spring inside my slipper clutch. Apparently these things happen. Below are two pictures of this work of art:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ub3cN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ub3cN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken spider spring 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qhreG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qhreG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken spider spring 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have some 300km separating me from home. Obviously precaution dictates that I leave the motorbike where it is and find a way to transport it home without actually driving it. This is a Ducati performance dry clutch mounted on a 2008 Hypermotard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless this incident got me wondering. Will driving with a broken / without the spring damage my clutch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T08:16:00.063" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T09:40:37.147" Title="Can I drive with a broken/without the spider spring in my clutch?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31532" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:25:25.977" Score="10" ViewCount="14131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously an anti-hopping clutch won't make the motorbike hop. How is this achieved? What are the mechanical and  functional differences between a normal and an anti-hopping/slipper clutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T13:21:40.263" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T20:04:09.070" Title="What are the differences between a normal and an anti-hopping/slipper clutch?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|technology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29192" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:28:57.953" Score="11" ViewCount="39471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a cheap and safe homebrew engine degreaser that can be used in a spray bottle.  When I say safe, I mean both for the engine and me.  I would be rinsing with either another spray bottle or a water hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to every hardware and auto parts store in my city, and literally at the last one I checked I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abro.com/pd-320.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;abro purple power degreaser&lt;/a&gt; which I'm going to try.  However, I think this is still an interesting question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T07:40:23.430" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T10:31:42.163" Title="How to Make a Homebrew Engine Degreaser Spray?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:48:10.750" Score="4" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Subaru Baja 2005 and decided I needed to change the oil. I got the right oil and filter and got my mom and younger brother to help me. We drained the oil and tried to take off the filter but couldn't get it. So we left the old one on and put the plug back in and I put in about 4 quarts of oil. The oil line is quite a bit over the mark and not much oil is draining out from the bottom. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17038" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T02:39:29.760" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:20:02.373" Title="I changed the oil and might have put too much in. What do I do?" Tags="|subaru|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29168" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:52:03.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car Audio should work well in your garage .Mine has been running for 17 years now .The 12 V  DC    power supply needs to be rated for the job as others have commented .If you use a switchmode power supply which is more common these days you may get noisey radio reception due to the crud that these supplies put out .Placing the Antenna on the roof will minimise this potential problem .If you use an old school linear power supply your ability to get distant stations should be excellent.The old school linear power supplies that are designed for radio telephone equipment would perform well.I used a transformer and bridge rectifier and filter capacitor for one of my installs .I used much     more filter capacitance than usual because car equipment is designed to filter alternator whine and does not filter power hum very well .A lot of modern car audio equipment wants to be connected to 12V all the time .You will notice that when you change your car battery the radio forgets its stations.If your 12V is going to be on all the time then your power supply should have a low standby current or you can use two supplies .Small one for the memory and large for the radio .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14881" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T22:52:03.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29182" CreationDate="2016-05-01T00:34:30.900" Score="6" ViewCount="3910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my new 2016 mazda3 today from the dealer and tossed the second key fob right in my backpack without taking a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I found there was this weird looking thing attached to it. It has &quot;&lt;strong&gt;iButton.com&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; engraved on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is it?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What does it do to my car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoTo9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoTo9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;weird looking key fob&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17039" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T20:10:26.867" Title="What is the funny looking thing attached to my new mazda3 key fob?" Tags="|mazda|key|keyless-entry|mazda-3|fob|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:22:06.347" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a 1991 Celica with a 3SGTE motor swapped in, and it's been sitting for a year. The ad says it runs, but are there things I should do immediately upon buying the car? I was planning on changing tires, adding fuel treatment, and doing an oil change immediately, but is there anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17041" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:55:04.333" Title="1991 Celica with 3SGTE motor been sitting for a year- what can I expect?" Tags="|toyota|long-term-storage|celica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-01T16:50:01.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29180" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:26:08.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change every liquid - oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential fluid, washer fluid, blinker fluid (in Utah, this often runs out on cars I see on the road). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drain the fuel tank, and put decent gas in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full service - spark plugs, air filters, belts, check the brake pads, disks and drums. Check all hoses under the hood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And put a new radio in - the old one will probably still be playing early '90's music, and nobody wants that....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T02:26:08.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29178" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:37:43.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a dealer ID tag. The salesman and managers use it to check keys in and out. They should have taken it off of the key before they handed it to you. If you don't want it, just take it off and throw it away (if the dealership sucked) or take it off and return it if you feel extra nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/digital/memory-products/DS1990R-F3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the webpage for them.&lt;/a&gt; Their claim is &lt;em&gt;inventory control&lt;/em&gt;, which is what is happening with the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T10:51:32.440" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:51:32.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:38:02.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I wouldn't bother. I picked up some excellent purple degreaser at the local dollar store for (I seem to recall) $1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T02:38:02.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:41:21.047" Score="7" ViewCount="27878" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a 2000 f350 7.3 super duty. The starter stayed engaged and I was unable to turn off the motor, although turning the ignition back to off, the starter stayed on.  Ultimately the starter burned out and was shot. I replaced the starter and the ignition tumbler in the steering wheel.  Work for a day then the starter again stayed engaged and did the same thing.  I disconnected the batteries to shut the truck off, yes I know its bad but didn't want to burn up another starter.  What is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17042" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T02:46:31.747" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T18:16:24.707" Title="Starter stays engaged" Tags="|ford|starter|f-350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29176" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:45:37.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can drain some oil by just pulling the plug again, then replacing it rather quickly. Take out the amount you think you'll need. It's going to make a bit of a mess, so wear nitrile gloves and eye protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the filter goes, there are two things you can do without the tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get an old leather belt. I'm talking the kind which is &lt;em&gt;well worn&lt;/em&gt; and not the type which you wear with your Sunday best (real leather). Wrap the belt around the filter and through the loop, then bring the belt back on itself. Wrap this around the filter another complete turn. While holding the belt tight on the filter, tug on the loose end. This will usually cause the filter to turn. Ensure you are turning it the correct way (lefty loosey). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second method you can use is to just take a long shanked screwdriver and stick it through the middle of the filter, then pry it in the correct direction. This is a bit more messy than the belt method, but will work. Once you've committed to this method, you have to follow through, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When putting the new filter on, make sure you put FRESH oil on the new gasket, then once the gasket touches the filter boss, only turn it one more full turn. This will ensure it will seal and you should be able to take the filter off by hand afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T02:45:37.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T03:10:26.543" Score="4" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Royal Enfield Classic 350 (2014 model). After completing 10000 km, I started hearing an irritating sound from the tappet (service guys says so). At that time it didn't last long, so I thought it will end soon. After completing 15000 km it increased and now I am facing a nonstop horrible sound from the tappet. I just lost the belief in my bull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any way that I can end this sound?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does changing the tappet will end this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17043" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T15:03:30.803" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T15:03:30.803" Title="Heavy noise from the tappet of my RE Classic 350" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|noise|enfield-classic|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29172" CreationDate="2016-05-01T03:14:58.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out.  I had has taken the shifter out while it was in gear.  I took a flat head and put the transmission into neutral.  Problem shoved.  Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17036" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T03:14:58.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2016-05-01T10:23:50.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will generally want to look for something that is a solvent, or is solvent-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good homebrew 'degreaser' would be using washing soda (sodium carbonate) diluted in water. You can make washing soda from baking soda by heating it (baking soda) up on a stove. There are plenty of videos and guides on how to safely to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in terms of effectivity, you are better off buying citrus cleaner concentrate and diluting it in water or buying degreaser bottles. Heavy-duty degreaser on store shelves often contain alkaline washing agents and a few other chemicals that make them much, much more effective than anything you could easily make at home. If you are having unsatisfactory results with degreaser that you have bought before, you may have unrealistic expectations of what degreaser can do. It does not completely dissolve heavy dirt and grime build-up, you generally need to scrub down and/or use a pressure washer afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding safety, solvents that are strong enough to aid in cleaning engines will always be mildly or considerably toxic to humans. Although many people will not wear mouth/nose protection when using degreasers or solvents, it is generally a good idea as prolonged exposure and inhalation of them can be detrimental to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, look up how to make washing soda, dilute it in water and use that. Have low expectations of how well it will clean compared to store-bought degreasers and solvents, and possibly go through a more involved process of cleaning out your engine. Wear mouth/nose protection if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:23:50.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3018" CreationDate="2016-05-01T10:28:45.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are physical repair manuals you can buy from a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://haynes.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haynes.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manuals are based on tearing down and rebuilding whatever car is in question and can be useful references if you are unsure the car you are working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:28:45.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29180" CreationDate="2016-05-01T10:55:04.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a plethora of things you should check prior to buying the vehicle, assuming you haven't already had a mechanic inspect the vehicle beforehand. Even if a vehicle is 'running', it does not always mean it is running well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension, steering and braking component wear and tear is something you should always look out for, e.g. sway bar link knocking, control arm play or steering rack and cv joint boot cracks/leaks are examples of things to check for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much brake material is left on the current pads? What is the condition of the rotors? Are there any heat marks, cracks, lips? How thick are they compared to manufacturer's minimum specifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seals around doors, windows and boots are also something you should consider. Do they leak? Are they desolating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaks around the engine bay are a definite must-look-out-for. Sometimes sellers will clean up any sweating/weeping prior to you coming to personally inspect or buy. If they haven't, what is leaking, where from, and why? This can bite you in the ass in the future if you overlook it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is so much more to check for prior to buying a car. You do not have to necessarily fix it all, but it gives you perspective as to how much you may need to invest in the near future and what you must invest now to ensure the car does not undergo further damage as you drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking it to a mechanic that is experienced in inspections may be a pain in the ass, but it can definitely save you from any nasty surprises or headaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of what you can do immediately, as Pete recommends, change all fluids in the vehicle. Don't forget the washer reservoir, water does get stale over time. Drain the fuel tank of the dirty fuel and add new one in. Do a major service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean out the interior of the vehicle. Even if it looks clean, mildew, mould or dust would may have built up over time and you do not want to be a in the car with those things present. Give the upholstery a good scrubbing down with diluted citrus cleaner and steam it as well if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the windscreen wipers. Over time they will have carbonized and if you ever use them, they will streak and make awful noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can find any insects living in the nooks and crannies of the car. Probably want to kill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you care for the exterior of the vehicle, give the paint a proper wash, clay the surface and apply a new coat of wax or sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T10:55:04.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2016-05-01T11:03:45.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't answering your question but may answer your need (removing stubborn engine grime).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soften the grime by rubbing engine oil into it. The engine oil doesn't have to be new; used oil works just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the grime is softened, it becomes much easier to pull it off with a less intense solvent like brake cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T11:03:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T13:00:26.587" Score="5" ViewCount="8050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Sierra Leone where mechanics have an impressive flair for improvising with limited resources, but a lack of formal training and a cavalier attitude to long term safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a transmission fluid leak from my gasket for a while, and have reason to believe the garage I was trying to fix it with were deliberately applying temporary fixes to give me a reason to keep coming back (a common trick here). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got another mechanic to look at it, who isolated the cause to a screw with worn-down threads and a worn gap, that can't make a seal and can't be replaced without cutting then welding the metal. His proposed solution was to seal it with an epoxy glue, reasoning that I'd need to cut it out if it needed removing anyway, and this way at least it's sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was insistent that this is safe and that they've done this many times before, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's safe... So I insisted on testing the (dried) glue with transmission fluid anyway. There didn't seem to be any reaction (the glue is &quot;Teson Quick Steel&quot;, two-part, no clues as to ingredients on the packaging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this isn't the best solution, but is it safe, or might there be something like a slow reaction that's not immediately visible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T14:37:10.990" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T05:30:33.440" Title="Fixing a gasket oil/transmission fluid leak with epoxy glue - possible reaction with oil?" Tags="|oil|oil-leak|gasket|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29196" CreationDate="2016-05-01T16:03:25.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really think it depends on how they are using the glue. If they are using it to fill in a void, then it might work. You &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;WOULD NOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; however, want to use it to seal the leak directly. For instance, you don't want to glue or bond the two metal parts together in lieu of a gasket or gasket material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They (or you) need to figure out &lt;em&gt;where the gasket is leaking at&lt;/em&gt; and fix the issue, not just cover the symptom. The problem may be because a part is warped and leaves a gap where liquid can seep through. It may also be due to having it too tight (which can also damage the piece permanently). A good way to fix this is by using gasket maker such as Permatex (self vulcanizing sealant). If that isn't available, you may want to see if you can replace the part altogether. You can also use a substitute for the gasket. There is gasket material with which you can make your own gaskets. I've even used stiff card stock to make gaskets with in the past. Yes, you have to cut them out, but it works like a charm in some situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps with your endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T16:03:25.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29139" CreationDate="2016-05-01T16:18:36.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to get this car to a Mechanic ASAP. Even though you keep an eye on the gauge. By the time the gauge is in the danger zone the damage has already been done. Spent the bucks now to fix it and save a bundle on the chance that thing Blows a gasket..........&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17048" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T16:18:36.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29184" CreationDate="2016-05-01T16:35:59.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starter circuit is typically quite simple. The high current wire goes from the battery to the starter motor. The ignition sends a signal to a relay so it closes and allows current to flow to the starter solenoid. The solenoid engages the starter motor teeth with the flywheel teeth, and simultaneously connects the high current power to the starter motor. On some Fords, like yours (from what I've read), the relay portion of the solenoid is separate from the starter. It is a small part on the passenger side of the car, and it gets the signal from the ignition instead of a smaller relay activating the solenoid on the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've already replaced your starter and the ignition switch, you have one likely problem left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter relay is dealing with significant current, so that's what you should test. You should not see any continuity between the battery terminal and the starter terminal (the two big terminals) with the battery disconnected, so if there is then that's your problem. On newer Ford trucks, there are two relays that look similar along the passenger side fender. You'll need the one further back from the front of the truck. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNqWT.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNqWT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford starter relay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T16:35:59.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3018" CreationDate="2016-05-01T17:21:24.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most manufactures have a website where repair data can be viewed and printed, some are easy to use some are almost impossible but the the info is in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW: oss.bmw.de&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peugeot: serivebox.peugeot.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VW: erwin.volkswagen.de&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Audi: erwin.audi.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have an account set up you can pay for access in what ever time amount you want, normally 1 hour, 24hours, 1 week, 1 month and 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been law for many years now for any manufacture in the EU to allow 3rd parties to access repair info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15957" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T17:21:24.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29203" CreationDate="2016-05-01T17:29:57.620" Score="9" ViewCount="21534" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I test whether oil is leaking into cylinder combustion chambers and getting burnt in case of oil level loss? As opposed to, for example, leaking through the oil pan or the timing chain cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T18:45:02.990" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T16:59:40.800" Title="How to test if oil is leaking into combustion chambers?" Tags="|engine|oil|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29202" CreationDate="2016-05-01T18:01:28.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the spark plugs and inspect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil-fouled spark plugs will look wet and black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zlfzq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spark Plug Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-13T16:59:40.800" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T16:59:40.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29196" CreationDate="2016-05-01T18:40:49.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is the oil pan bolt holes that are stripped out, using a Heli-Coil thread insert is the professional permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kgxfc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kgxfc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heli-Coil is the inventor of this repair method, but there are other brands now available that do the same thing, they are sold in most Auto parts stores here in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Epoxy to do this type of repair is similar to using bailing wire to hold the exhaust pipe up off the ground, a temporary fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sell Kits for every thread size, the Kit includes the inserts, insert tool, and the correct tap to tap out the hole for the insert to screw into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to know what the thread size is to order the correct kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T23:12:00.717" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T23:12:00.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17610" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:33:54.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the answer. I just did mine - looks like the highlighted dogbone in the picture above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use 18MM socket, preferable deep well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rearmost end has a stud and a nut, the front end has a long bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove them both - and lift the torque strut off of the stud, and the whole thing easily lifts out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the new one in position and replace the nut and the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over torque the bolt or the rubber bushing will be distorted.&#xA;You are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17052" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T19:33:54.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29207" CreationDate="2016-05-01T20:11:49.960" Score="6" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Suzuki Swift 01 is leaking coolant. I'm trying to change the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gotten as far as taking the camshaft cover off. See this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwkvG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwkvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what Step 11, &quot;Back off all valve lash adjusters until valves are closed if applicable&quot; means on the head removal procedure by Chilton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jB63M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jB63M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why the Chilton book is asking to close off the valves to begin. What happens if the head is taken off without closing the valves? Also, the Chilton book is implying the cylinder head bolts will come right off, but the camshaft is in the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14pHe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14pHe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides changing the head gasket, is there anything else that should be done? I appreciate helpful feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15954" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T23:27:29.887" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T23:27:29.887" Title="Why should I back off all valve lash adjusters until valves are closed when changing a head gasket?" Tags="|suzuki|head-gasket|motors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29206" CreationDate="2016-05-01T21:11:41.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to back off the valves so you don't damage the head when you pull the head bolts. If you have tension on the valves, you run the risk of warping the head. Likewise, when you put the head on, you want to ensure there aren't any valves which will be causing interference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is interference from the valves, this will affect the torque values for the head bolts, giving you a false reading. When you torque them down, then the pressure from the valves is relieved, some head bolts will not have as much as others, then when first start up occurs and heat is applied, warpage of the head will occur, then you will incur a &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; machining bill to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do as the instructions state and ensure all of the tension is off of the valves prior to removing the head bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T21:11:41.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5900" CreationDate="2016-05-01T23:56:00.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;spark plug wires should last a very long time, so just check them when you get the plugs done, and replace if they're worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wires don't really wear with distance, it's time and heat cycles that cause the insulation to eventually degrade. usually there good for several years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;look for cracking of insulation, particularly at joints.&#xA;check for corrosion of terminals&#xA;and if you're really motivated, check resistance (lower is better)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T23:56:00.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29206" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:53:23.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They want you to back of the lash so you don't ruin your rocker arms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system in which this head depresses the valves is the reverse of many heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cams (the shaft at the top of the photo) is spinning with the lobe coming up beneath the rocker arm foot to act as a lever against the rocker shafts (short shafts between the cam and the valves) to depress the valves.  Because of this reverse method and how you will need to pull the cam out the manufacturers order of disassembly, they want you to loosen the lock nuts and back out the center pin of the valve lash adjustment all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a standard procedure for this type of overhead cam and will allow you to you to remove the cam and replace it without binding the rocker arm and bending it or snapping it on reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plenty of Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best practice is to simply have plenty of play in the lash.  I back them almost all the way out when I do it so that even if the lobe is on the rocker and depressing the valve I still have play in the lash.  That means the ones that aren't on the lob can be backet out with even more play or lash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The looser everything is upon reassembly the easier and simpler everything will go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T00:53:23.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29173" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:28:16.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can ride it up but not hard at all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That spider spring works in conjunction with the ramps in the rear to all the clutch to slip under engine breaking that exceeds the redline of the bike.  So you won't want to be downshifting from 5th redline to 2nd gear until you get this fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are very lucky the spring losing it's two arms didn't do more damage.  Inspect the back of your pressure plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nicks and burs inside the inner basket don't look too bad but the photo may not show all the damage.  Your primary concern is the threaded pins emerging from the back of the inner basket from the out basket to secure your pressure plate and springs to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spider spring is a 'secondary' spring to the 6 primary springs so you can get slip in both directions, on and off power, potentially.  Hence the recommendation to just ride it easy home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No OEM&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can recall you can't get replacement components from Ducati for this basket but you may be able to get a new spider spring from &lt;em&gt;STM&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an adjustable STM replacement slipper clutch but they (as you probably know) are expensive.  If you've found yourself wanting the clutch the start bleeding off energy earlier or later than your current clutch then you will be much happier with an adjustable slipper than this one.  You can get the ball bearing type with various degrees of ramp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFIK it's the  only non-adjustable slipper that STM has ever made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:28:16.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29202" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:57:40.623" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can test your rings and head gasket with a leak down tester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking your spark plugs as shown in @Zaid's post is the first order of business.  You will see it on the plugs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you do see an oil fouled plug, you will need to identify the source of the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Sources of Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake valve guide seal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Head gasket&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PCV valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the above can be a source of oil into your engine where it can be burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the integrity of the combustion chamber you can use a leak down tester.  A leak down tester will pressurize your combustion chambers and allow you to listen at your intake and exhaust valves for leaks as well as your crankcase ventilation for head gasket and ring leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is post regarding how to use a leak down tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26384/what-is-a-leak-down-tester-and-what-can-i-do-with-it&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:57:40.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2016-05-02T03:50:18.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safe and Cheap?  Wow, you aren't asking for much. This question got me looking at different Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) and I was surprised nothing is safe anymore, sigh.  Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pg.com/productsafety/msds/fabric_and_homecare/detergents/Liq_2X_Gain-_all_Feb_2014.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSDS sheet for Procter and Gamble laundry soap&lt;/a&gt; for goodness sake.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.malcoautomotive.com/images/MediaGallery/SDS%20US%20-1203-%20Potent%20Purple%20Cleaner_2015-05-22_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;random purple degreaser.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that nothing that will cut oil residue is totally safe.   I guess there are different ways to look at that. Things that are flammable or evaporate easily or go thru skin are way bad (i.e. anything solvent based.)  So where are you drawing the line on safety? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc... I was going to suggest laundry soap, slightly cut.  But as I look at the MSDS and at JaceAce's recommendation, his vote trumps mine. He's got this one exactly correct.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I would have deleted this answer, but I thought the MSDS on laundry soap and purple degreaser really supported JaceAce's answer.  Consider this a lengthy comment in support of his answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T03:50:18.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3018" CreationDate="2016-05-02T06:56:29.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alldatadiy is similar to Mitchell on Demand; some find the interface easier to use.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alldatadiy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alldata&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sites that are not necessarily DIY, not free but can be most helpful if one can qualify for membership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I-atn.com:  lots of threads on theory and technical discussions. Lots of help requests on specific problems. Membership has some restrictions. Moderate monthly fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Identifix.com:  Excellent fix database and OEM service data. Expensive monthly cost. This is the &quot;go to&quot; place for most professional automotive diagnosticians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T06:56:29.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26275" CreationDate="2016-05-02T08:56:09.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kaseys answer sounds right to me. There is a sensor, that indicates the vehicles inclination relative to the road (I don't know how to call it either, in Germany we simply call it &quot;&lt;em&gt;headlight leveling sensor&lt;/em&gt;&quot;). That sensor needs to be replaced probably. I'd just like to add two pictures, so you can see how the sensor looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEwNt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEwNt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E46 front axle sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCjQe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCjQe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;E46 front axle sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e46-forum.de/e46-elektrik-beleuchtung/35397-expertenfrage-leuchtweitenregulierung-vfl-xenon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e46-forum.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T08:56:09.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:13:29.963" Score="10" ViewCount="3187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle in question: 2004 Subaru WRX wagon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend, I replaced the intercooler hose (y-shaped upset the intercooler), the throttle body hose and the blowoff valve hose (routes the over boost back to the intake when the throttle closes suddenly).  New hoses are silicone, thicker than stock and have significantly smoother curves. Plus, they're red so that should add 0hp per hose, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install went pretty well: old hoses are tired, have plenty of grease and oil accumulated after 12 years and are ugly. The new hoses are thicker and come with super robust clamps. One of the clamps was a bit too small (blow off valve end of the route-back hose) so I had to reuse one of the old clamps. (Pro tip from future me: think harder about the clamp rotation next time!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem that I'm left with is a high pitched tone that triggers at nearly peak boost. It sounds much like a balloon with a hole in it and only manifests under load and under a lot of boost (e.g., going up a bridge in high gear at full throttle). It isn't subtle which implies that something is venting to atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does this sound like?  If it were a bad gasket, I'd expect to hear a rising tone over time. Same if it were a hose clamp or a loose hose. It could be a blow off valve noise but I'm super surprised to hear this much racket: the stock blow off valve has always been very subtle (no big whoosh on drop throttles for instance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T22:31:51.270" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T22:31:51.270" Title="Minor boost leak and shrill tone at peak boost: hose clamp, gasket or blow off valve?" Tags="|noise|turbocharger|hose|intercooler|hose-clamp|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:29:18.907" Score="7" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire (tyre) brands come in three categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Major brands that advertise extensively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively unknown brands that are actually made by the major brands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively unknown brands that are manufactured in their own factories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires in categories 2 and 3 are usually much less expensive than tires in category 1, since you don't have to pay for all that advertising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: &lt;em&gt;Do tires in categories 2 and 3 go through as much (or even more) rigorous testing as tires in category 1?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T12:41:33.787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T11:58:55.580" Title="Do no-name tires go through thorough testing?" Tags="|tires|safety|testing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29224" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:33:44.150" Score="6" ViewCount="2691" Body="&lt;p&gt;This order of events makes no sense to me, I'm hoping someone here can see some possible link between them that I can't. Car is a 1998 Toyota RAV4 automatic, FWD:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a car-not-starting problem (clicking, no starter) which I fixed which turned out to be electrical, I recharged the battery, changed fuses and taped over a section of wire that had become exposed, and the car started fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mechanic I'd booked to look at the electrics before I realised I'd fixed it myself did some work on a leak in the transmission fluid gasket, which involved replacing the pan and emptying then refilling the transmission fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car started fine after this, and we kept it running to check for problems. There weren't any, the engine ran happily, and I checked the voltage which was over 14V which I believe means the alternator was happily charging the battery as normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ten minutes later, after the mechanic had gone, I started the car again and drove it a few meters, to reposition it in the driveway. Everything still worked perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 minutes later, with the car having done nothing but sat parked for those 30 minutes, I tried to start the car to go somewhere, but while the starter motor and fan start fine (so the electrics seem good still unlike the previous problem), the engine doesn't join in - the starter cranks and makes the normal whup-whup-whup sound, the fan whirs until I release the ignition, but no gas ignition. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I'd suspect low fuel or bad spark plugs based on those symptoms, but the spark plugs are new changed just a few weeks ago, and the tank has plenty of fuel. The battery is fine and near fully charged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand what could have happened in those 30 minutes to cause the engine to fail. The only think I can think of that could have happened in that time is the recently re-poured transmission fluid settling and any spillage dripping, which seems unrelated to the fuel and spark plugs which appears to be where the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best idea was spilt transmission fluid getting between two electrical connections. I found a plug that had got dripped on a little, cleaned it up until all the metal was shiny, but it made no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could this problem follow from these events? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs themselves are deep set and difficult to reach, taking them out to inspect would be a tricky job requiring tools I don't have access to currently. They're less than a couple of months old and weren't touched as part of this work, and I checked that no fluids of any kind had got near them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other possible link between transmission fluid and engine firing I can think of is safety switches preventing starting the engine when in the wrong gear, but I think those work in this car by preventing the key physically turning to the start position, which isn't what's happening here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T09:23:14.553" LastActivityDate="2021-11-20T18:03:36.027" Title="Main engine not firing after non-engine-related fixes (replacing fuses and transmission fluid), starter/fan fine" Tags="|toyota|starting|rav4|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29217" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:37:18.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite likely the work performed has introduced a subtle air leak that only manifests itself under high boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressurizing the intake tract with the car off will help you identify the source of the leak. A hose fitting that isn't honked down all the way will exhibit this kind of behavior under boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like how Jafro figured out the source of his car's  leaks in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/fdjadhUP1u4&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T12:37:18.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29221" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:51:48.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hints for solving a variety of motor vehicle maintenance and repair issues, especially problems that require experiential knowledge to solve or are not covered by traditional books or other resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:49:09.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:49:09.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29222" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-02T12:51:48.510" Score="0" Body="Hints for solving a variety of motor vehicle maintenance and repair issues, especially problems that require experiential knowledge to solve or are not covered by traditional books or other resources." OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:49:02.460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:49:02.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29226" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:02:18.347" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this question which really puzzles me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm from Europe and used to drive manual. I used to shift to neutral going down the hill to save on gas. Now I moved to the USA and I have cars that use automatic transmission but I was still thinking that I can use Neutral when going down the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Honda Odyssey(05) and Ford Taurus(10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving down the hill Honda I tend to use neutral. The idles go down as it should. No problem here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving Ford in neutral the idle speed tends to go into higher cycles based on how fast the car is moving down the hill. This confuses me as it makes the meaning of using natural pointless. This was also happening with my old Ford. I thought it was a defect and thought when I buy a new Ford it will be OK. Any idea why Ford accelerates idle speed in neutral based on how fast the car is moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7846" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:22:17.650" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:32:03.847" Title="2010 Ford Taurus in neutral has higher idle speed" Tags="|ford|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29219" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:05:56.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is rather specific to the hazards of car ownership in West Africa, so I'm not surprised no-one has suggested this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29240/how-to-check-if-spark-plugs-are-firing-coil-on-plugs&quot;&gt;improvised variant of this method&lt;/a&gt; to confirm that it was indeed an electrical problem with no power reaching the spark plug wires, I had a closer look at my fuse box, and specifically the &quot;EFI&quot; (fuel injection sytem) fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts are hard to find here and mechanics here have a terrible habit of working around the difficulty in finding new fuses by, instead of replacing blown fuses, &quot;fixing&quot; them by wrapping the connections with copper wire. Discovering that they'd done this with literally half the fuses in the fuse box and replacing all these bodged fuses with real, fresh fuses was part of the job I'd done with the previous non-starting problem, before the engine stopped starting in this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bodging fuses with wire like this obviously risks excessive current, and looking closely at my EFI fuse socket, which was one of the fuses that had been previously bodged, there were indeed slight scorch marks and areas where the plastic had melted slightly. Looking closer still, I discovered pieces of very thin scorched broken copper wire, stuck deep in the fuse socket. Clearly this had been used to bodge a fuse previously, hadn't been up to the currents passing through it, and had degraded, and rather than fixing it properly, whoever this was years ago had just wrapped more copper wire around the fuse until it worked again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After spending a few minutes carefully pulling the rogue copper out with a pair of pliers, and checking that the original connections were still present and undamaged, I replaced the (real, fresh, unbodged!) fuse, and the car started normally, two attempts in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably, while changing and checking the fuses repeatedly, plus other work around the fuse box, and random shaking from the engine and work on the oil pan, these rogue bits of wire had moved and connected to something they shouldn't have, taking the current away from where it was supposed to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are some earlier steps I did, which got the engine to start once, but only once. I'm not sure if it actually helped, or if it was co-incidental to the bits of broken wire randomly shaking in the socket. I'll leave it how I wrote it when I thought it had worked, in case there was anything in it and it might it help someone else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making sure the relays were fitted properly.&lt;/strong&gt; I suspect they'd been knocked slightly when I was packing everything up after sorting out the other problems and the relay controlling the fuel pump had lost a good connection. Apparently in old RAV4s they're quite sensitive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Letting the car sit for about a minute with the power on&lt;/strong&gt; (key in the 3/4 position, power on but no ignition) before turning to ignition. I suspect this allowed the previously power-starved fuel pump to get the pressure in the fuel line back up to where it should be before trying to ignite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it was nothing to do with the transmission fluid, but wasn't complete co-incidence either: it appears it was caused by some tiny moment of clumsiness &lt;em&gt;while packing away&lt;/em&gt; after fixing a completely unrelated problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c3602_ds602701&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; the RAV4 check engine light should show while starting the engine. If it doesn't, that means the ECM (Engine Control Module) isn't getting power for some reason. I hadn't realised this was something to look for but after trying again, I can confirm that the check engine light &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; light up while attempting to start the car - suggesting it's not getting power while everything else is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread also mentions that the relays for the ECM are quite sensitive, and that an accidentally knocked relay is a common cause of starting problems for RAV4s with symptoms similar to mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that happened between the car working and failing was me packing everything away, which included putting spare fuses away in the fuse and relay box. I thought this wasn't even worth thinking about, let alone mentioning, but one possibility is that while doing this I accidentally knocked a relay causing the ECM to lose power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this seems to make sense, on inspecting the relays, they seemed fine, and re-inserting them &lt;em&gt;alone&lt;/em&gt; didn't solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good people on &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/340/the-pitstop&quot;&gt;the chatroom attached to this site&lt;/a&gt; suggested I put the power on without ignition and listen near the fuel tank to see if I could hear the fuel pump working (electric motor low buzzing sound from near the tank). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did sound like it was working. Exasperated because no power to the fuel pump was the only explanation that seemed to make sense and I felt like I was out of things to try, I tried starting the car one last time in desperation... and it worked! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only guess that there &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; been problems with the power to the fuel pump, which my checking of the fuses and relays had fixed, but that the pressure in the fuel line had gone down to an extent where it needed more time with the pump on to get back to a level that could start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Huge thanks to all the people who helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T11:36:06.833" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29219" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:39:43.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try starting the vehicle in neutral. It might an issue with the electrical connection in the Neutral Start Switch located in transmission console where the gear shift is. If memory serves me correctly there is a device called a parking pawl-sort of a safety locking mechanism. Sometimes this affect the start switch which affects the ability to start Park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility: intermittent ignition switch....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I think about it the ignition switch failing becomes more plausible as a cause. This car is 18 years and switch has had a lot of usage. Consider the lowly ignition switch what it does. It activates the ECM, ignition system,electric fuel pump, starter solenoid, the accessories etc....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T03:00:10.173" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T03:00:10.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29223" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:32:03.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford may be trying to match the engine speed to the transmission shaft speed. This would tend to reduce wear on the clutches.  When the transmission is shifted back into gear after a down hill run in neutral the transmission has to match the engine to the wheel speed. Depending how different these are clutch wear can be significant. Note that modern fuel control strategies often can turn off fuel supply to the engine in coast mode as long as the transmission is left in gear. In neutral it must supply fuel to keep the engine turning. So the neutral downhill strategy can, in some cases, use more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:32:03.847" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29186" CreationDate="2016-05-02T16:35:40.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can adjust your valve lash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have nothing to worry about.  Adjusting valve lash is a standard maintenance item and should be done upon any maintenance or tune up's of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, getting to the adjustment is quite simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, follow your factory manual regarding reducing the amount of valve lash clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your motorcycle will be and is fine.  The sounds are normal and can be reduced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUyOT.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUyOT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T16:35:40.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T16:40:53.657" Score="3" ViewCount="36302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1.2l Vauxhall Corsa D (62 plate) that has done 63K miles. A problem has developed over the last day or two that is becoming a concern, and has got worse over the last 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst accelerating in 2nd and 3rd, the car stutters and judders, losing revs and slowing slightly. This goes on for the whole journey. When it happens badly, the malfunction light flashes, and if i ease off the accelerator, it stops, but there is still a slight hesitation in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, the coil pack was changed, the symptoms at the time were similar but nowhere near as bad, and the light never came on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I've read it could be a faulty lambda sensor, or MAF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17074" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T17:31:35.520" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T20:01:38.867" Title="Corsa D Stuttering Accelaration with Malfunction Light flashing" Tags="|engine|vauxhall|acceleration|misfire|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15878" CreationDate="2016-05-02T17:28:27.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue could be a camshaft position sensor going bad.  My G35 wouldnt start right away unless I gave it some gas. After 8 months..car stop accelerating while driving.  Issue was camshaft position sensor bank 2.  It was an easy fix, I just youtubed it.  Part was $100 at AutoParts store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17075" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T17:28:27.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29228" CreationDate="2016-05-02T17:28:56.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire.  Driving your car while misfiring for an extended period of time can cause damage to your catalytic converter, so try not do do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studdering/juddering or however you want to describe it is also a definite sign of a misfire.  Suspecting the coil(s) or wires is good, and that should be your first area to troubleshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T17:28:56.197" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29233" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:28:44.110" Score="11" ViewCount="12216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to check the fuses at the positive battery connection of my 1998 (first generation) Toyota RAV4. Visually, the 80a and 100a look fine, but the 50a has blue deposits and I can't tell if it's broken or not. No power is reaching my engine controller, and I've checked every other fuse and the relays, so I'd like to rule out a blown 50 amp fuse as a possible cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, I can't find how to remove them. Simply pulling with pliers doesn't work - first the clear plastic cover pops off, then the rest won't budge at all. It feels like I'll snap the fuses' plastic casing before they'll actually move. Curiously, wiggling it wiggles the plastic casing, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the metal components inside the fuse. I can't find anything online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a liftable panel on the terminal. Behind it are the connections for the three heavy duty wires. These don't seem to be related to the fuses and I can't see anything that looks like a clip (but I could be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the three fuses in question. The 50A is the red one on the left. It looks like it should just pull out, but it won't budge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzF6F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzF6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:37:34.783" Title="How to remove the 50 amp, 80 amp and 100 amp fuses from the positive terminal of a RAV4?" Tags="|toyota|fuse|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29218" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:32:09.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US, the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) is the governing body that controls testing and specifications of motor vehicles.  They mandate that a certain  set of standardized tests are carried out on &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; tires sold for highway use.  Tires that are made for off-road equipment and possibly some trailers might not have to undergo the same testing, but, in general, all tires sold for cars and trucks in the US must meet the testing standards.  I can only assume that other major world markets have a similar governing body and required tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this is a partial answer to your question.  All tires sold must meet some &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; testing, but I'm not sure if &quot;brand name&quot; tires are subjected to &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per my comment on the question, I assume that the bigger companies do more exhaustive testing to put out the best quality tire possible, and they more than likely have more advanced, specialized tests for their performance, wet weather, and winter tires.  But again, this is only speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:32:09.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29231" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:37:34.783" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuse connection legs are through bolted on many of these higher amp rated fuses. To find out remove the black plastic cover below the fuses. If you find small nuts then they are the bolted in type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW if the fuse links under the clear plastic windows look OK then they do not need to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:37:34.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29235" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:59:49.930" Score="13" ViewCount="12893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to check if this particular 50 amp fuse on a RAV4 (1998 first generation) is blown or not. Just looking, it's hard to tell because of what I assume are blue-green deposits on copper (this is the view inside it with the cover removed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vO7B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vO7B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I'd remove a fuse and test the two connections with a multimeter set to measure Ohms / resistance, but removing this is a non-trivial task - not only is the bolt holding it in place incredibly stiff, it's also holding the wiring together and I don't like the risk of re-assembling the wiring incorrectly or losing one of the many small parts like washers held with this bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, it looks like I could (after disconnecting the battery!) just use the multimeter's prongs to touch the copper visible on the left and right sides of the bottom of the fuse, and if it gives any reading, in theory that would mean the fuse hasn't blown. Some instinct however tells me that poking inside this fuse like this is a bad idea, or that it might not be as simple as it looks and those might not be points that are connected only by the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I worrying too much? Can I test this fuse without removing it as described? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:29:11.793" Title="How to test a bolted-in heavy duty 50a / 80a / 100a fuse with a multimeter without removing it?" Tags="|toyota|fuse|rav4|multimeter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:11:20.017" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of Ohms checks of fuses I check for voltage with power on. Set your voltmeter to DC volts with the negative lead on the battery negative connector. With the positive lead test both sides of the fuse. If good it will read battery voltage on both sides.  Most fuses have exposed metal tabs on both sides of the actual fuse section for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the fuses shown check for voltage at the small legs near the side of the case in the lower section of the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:11:20.017" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:15:37.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get to both sides of the fuse, see if you have power on each side.  If you want to make sure, remove the battery terminal, and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the battery terminal and the other side of the fuse.  Should be zero or close to it. If so, it is good.  With this type of fuse, when it blows, there is usually a large gap due to the amperage it takes to &quot;blow&quot; it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:15:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:40:02.373" Score="7" ViewCount="5533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so I have a 2000 Ford Focus 5 speed. I was coming off the interstate and hit a bump and the car shut off. All the light on dash come on even the radio but it won't crank. Not even clicking. I've changed the starter relay and tried crossing over the neutral lock switch but still nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17077" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T19:52:16.313" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:58:25.737" Title="Ford Focus won't crank no clicking light on dash come on." Tags="|ford|focus|no-crank-no-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:49:57.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that multi-layer head gaskets can be OEM as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/XIqF9LKbxk8?t=4m9s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hot Rod Garage video&lt;/a&gt; the presenter makes mention of the LS9 head gasket, which consists of 5 layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would seem to indicate that it is possible to have a reliable multi-layer head gasket, so thicker doesn't necessarily mean more failure-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:49:57.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:52:18.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the wiring on the starter the S terminal wire may have come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the starter relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal 30 is fused battery power.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Terminal 87 is output to the starter S terminal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Terminal 85 is power from the ignition switch in the start position.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Terminal 86 is PCM controlled ground with the neutral switch in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power at terminal 30 check fuse 8 in the under hood fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is unlikely but when the key is in the start position check for ground at the neutral safety switch. This should tell you if the anti theft system is working properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also regarding the engine stall check the inertia fuel switch it's probably located in the passenger kick panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T19:58:25.737" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:58:25.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29248" CreationDate="2016-05-02T20:52:50.413" Score="8" ViewCount="8309" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29219/main-engine-not-firing-after-replacing-fuses-and-transmission-fluid-starter-fan&quot;&gt;diagnose a tricky car not starting problem&lt;/a&gt; I was asked to check if the spark plugs were firing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found plenty of resources on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17802/how-to-diagnose-a-bad-spark-plug/17804#17804&quot;&gt;inspecting the condition of spark plugs&lt;/a&gt; after removing them, and to do with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9438/how-can-i-identify-which-cylinder-is-responsible-for-a-petrol-engine-misfire/9439#9439&quot;&gt;diagnosing misfiring spark plugs&lt;/a&gt;, but not a test for a simple yes-no, are they firing at all or aren't they.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a first generation (1998) Toyota RAV4, which I believe means they are the coil-on type (could be wrong). They're deep set in a straight cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I'd like to test if they're firing without removing them, which would require specialist tools I don't have easy access to and might result in me damaging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T18:50:57.077" Title="How to check if spark plugs are firing? Coil-on plugs" Tags="|toyota|ignition|sparkplugs|diagnostics|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29218" CreationDate="2016-05-02T21:54:14.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fun fact: the average mid-sized car tire sees ~800 revolutions per mile, so every component of a 50k mile tire must endure more than 40 million loading/unloading cycles! (note: some tires are not guaranteed for 50k miles). Source + testing information can be found in the PDF titled 'The Pneumatic Tire' on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/Vehicle+Safety/Tires&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of mileage rating, all tires that can be legally fitted to commercially sold vehicles (in the US, including farm, low load, and low speed tires) are required to meet minimum standards prescribed by the Department of Transportation's (DOT) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhtsa.gov/DOT/NHTSA/Vehicle%20Safety/Test%20Procedures/Associated%20Files/TP-139-02.pdf&quot;&gt;Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 139&lt;/a&gt;. For most tires, the requirements include: high speed endurance, mileage endurance, low inflation pressure performance, tire strength (road hazard), &amp;amp; bead unseating resistance testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, major tire companies definitely hold their tires to internal standards that meet &amp;amp; exceed those prescribed by FMVSS 139, while cheaper brands will likely only meet the minimum requirements (no source). While the amount by which major brands exceed the standards will vary, and is not readily available so far as I can tell, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/20081121/NEWS/311219996&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; indicates that Toyo recalled 585 of their Proxes 4, Proxes F24, and Nitto NT555 brand tires because, despite meeting federal regulations, they did not meet Toyo's internal dimensional tolerances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on FMVSS 139:&#xA;From what I understand, each test is conducted at 100°F, is repeated several times at several psi ratings up to the max pressure, and at several loads up to max load (except low inflation performance test). Each new test is conducted on a brand new tire. All testing is done in a controlled lab on a drum with a 17.6' circumference, such that 300 revolutions = 1 mile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High speed testing lasts 90 minutes, and is based on the tires speed rating.  The tests consist of 20-30 minute cycles that increment from 20 mph below speed rating up to the  maximum speed rating of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endurance testing takes place over 36 hours through a variety of different acceleration, speed, pressure, and load conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low pressure testing is similar to high speed testing, but done at highway speeds 50, 65, 75 mph with the tire at or near maximum load inflated to 20 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire strength is tested by loading the tires contact patch onto a plunger with a set surface area. The test ends when the tire fails, or plunger forces the tire to touch the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bead unseating is done by pushing a solid block of some surface area into the sidewall of the tire up to a minimum load. Surface area and load vary depending on tire size, psi, etc. Results are Pass/Fail only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T22:49:54.093" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:49:54.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T22:19:02.547" Score="4" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I overfilled my B&amp;amp;S 725ex self propelled lawnmower. I cut front yard no problem. Yesterday I went to cut back yard. I realized I had overfilled it with oil. I drained oil refilled to proper level changed spark plug. Pulled cord it just won't start. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17080" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T22:51:46.277" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:51:46.277" Title="Overfilled my B&amp;S 725ex self propelled lawmower" Tags="|small-engine|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29242" CreationDate="2016-05-02T22:38:27.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the spark and make sure it's not wet with oil.  If it is, clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Validate there's not oil in the cylinder.  If there is, you can squirt carb cleaner into it and pull the string a few times real hard to clear it out.  Wash, rinse, repeat a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your air filter and ensure it's not saturated with oil.  If it is, clean and/or replace it as necessary to make sure it's not wet or oil soaked.  If you do clean it, make sure it's not moist from water or a solvent before you put it back into service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the three top items I would check.  You should be good.  Of course, make sure your oil is at the correct level again.  It never hurts to double check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:38:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5903" CreationDate="2016-05-02T22:59:06.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be 3 grounds from the battery negative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to Engine &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to Frame &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to Body&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I build or restore a car, I run a heavy ground cable from the battery negative to the engine block, from that ground point on the engine I run the other 2 smaller grounds to the Body and then the frame, this way I only have one connection to the battery negative. I call it daisy chaining and cuts down on the amount of wire used and makes for clean looking battery terminals. I spray all the ground points with spray grease to prevent corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:59:06.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2016-05-02T23:05:31.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the quality of the gasket and installation, I have done this and had no failures, I do suggest re-torquing the head bolts after a few hundred miles and a some heat cycles of the engine, then do it again in a year or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also make head gasket spacers, they are solid metal and do the same thing, you can use a stock head gasket with these spacers, they do not make them for all engines though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T23:05:31.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29028" CreationDate="2016-05-02T23:35:09.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Priming Shocks of Various Dampeners/Struts is Urban Legend&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This myth has been perpetuated over time and has gained legs and therefore credibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's true that the gas and oil separate on the shelf lying horizontally. It's also true that they separate on the shelf if stored vertically, piston rod up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it doesn't matter.  These shocks are twin tube shocks.  The oil and gas are separated.  If you have some gas below the piston it will work it's way to the top upon operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's an image of a 'twin tube' shock&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZUoc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZUoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'dead spot' on first operation after a period of time not in operation is normal.  You can feel it in steering dampeners, struts, shocks and motorcycle forks.  It's just more prominent in feel when there isn't a spring as a component due to the lack of resistance to operate it off the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/TECH-_01_10-Priming.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a write-up from Gabriel&lt;/a&gt; (shock manufacturer) declaring that their shocks do not require priming.  Which is true, they just fail to state that the competition does not require priming either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/07/02/tech-101-the-hows-and-whys-of-priming-your-shocks/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article from Onallcylinders.com&lt;/a&gt; that says, &quot;you can do it but it's not necessary.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as my knowledge is concerned and based upon some of the citations I've provided I would call this a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_herring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Red Herring&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm sure there are plenty of others who will disagree.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T02:44:20.750" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T02:44:20.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29240" CreationDate="2016-05-02T23:36:17.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have 2 coil packs on the back side of the engine near the throttle body. Wires run to individual cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how easy it would be to find locally but you can use an inductance spark tester. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZNSh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ZNSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002STS3U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another  way to see if the coil pack is firing would be to pull a wire out and use either an adjustable spark tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGwRX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGwRX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or take an old plug/pull one from a cylinder insert it into a plug wire and ground the electrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7GvP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7GvP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coiltest-manual.htm#step2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coiltest-manual.htm#step2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T23:36:17.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T00:00:50.733" Score="7" ViewCount="6351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having this issue that started recently. Hearing and feeling in the steering wheel and pedals crunch/pop sound when rolling slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On/off brakes doesn't seem to matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In gear/off gear doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idling or fully turned off doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Happens only when driving slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried removing wheels, tightened the lugnuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forward or backwards doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seems to happen when rolling downhill more often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked all wheel bearing - seems to be in good shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifted front wheels and with handbrake spun the front today by hands, no sound, but they were spinning in opposite direction, so I suspect only transfer case was involved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car details:&#xA;- Stock rotors at 86k miles, so replacing soon because there is quite a lip there.&#xA;- Pads at 60% just cleaned all of them today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially suspected brakes, but that should go away when you get on/off brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am not even sure - is it diff pins? Transfer case? I can't make a video at the moment because I can feel it more than hear, so cellphone doesn't pick it up along with other noises in car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was to describe, feels like when you drive over gravel and some rocks shoot out from under your wheel under the weight of the car... not rhythmic sound, more of random number of beats per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I diagnose what is aside from what I tried already?&#xA;What can it be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2012 Mitsubish Evolution X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video shows the noise in the last 7 seconds. You will hear a few distinct POPs, similar to when you drive over snow and it compacts. USE GOOD SPEAKERS OR HEADPHONE, otherwise they are hard to hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nkmJ1KgnpQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nkmJ1KgnpQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastEditorUserId="16836" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T17:50:13.643" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:17:28.750" Title="Slow speed crunch/pop sound?" Tags="|brakes|noise|suspension|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29251" CreationDate="2016-05-03T00:52:05.653" Score="4" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this post here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20874/what-vehicle-does-this-ancient-ignition-coil-fit/20876#20876&quot;&gt;What vehicle does this ancient ignition coil fit?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is a device that is cited in @paulster2's response that is called a 'vibrator'.  Here's the diagram from his answer where it illustrates it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XLqu.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0XLqu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an adjustment nut, contact spring and apparently a gap that's created as it 'vibrates'.  Is this some sort of bi-metal strip that makes contact for a spark when electricity is run through it, like a turn signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the use of a vibrator and what does it do on old ignition coils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:20:26.083" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:20:26.083" Title="What is a vibrator on a Model T ignition coil for?" Tags="|electrical|ford|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29250" CreationDate="2016-05-03T00:58:09.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;AKA Trembler Coil&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trembler coil was a device called a Ruhmkorff or induction coil, widely used in the 19th century.[3] It combines two magnetic devices on the same iron-cored solenoid. The first is a transformer, used to transform low voltage electricity to a high voltage, suitable for an engine's spark plug. Two coils of wire are wound around an iron core. The primary winding carries the low voltage battery current, and the secondary winding generates the high voltage for the spark plug. Attached to the end of the coil is an interrupter or trembler, a magnetically operated switch or relay, &lt;strong&gt;which repeatedly breaks the primary current to create flux (changes) in the transformer needed to produce high voltage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch contacts are on a springy iron arm, which holds them closed. The arm is mounted near the iron core. When battery power is applied, the coil acts as an electromagnet; the magnetic field from the core pulls the iron arm, opening the switch contacts, interrupting the primary current. The magnetic field of the core is switched off, allowing the arm to spring back, closing the contacts again. Then the primary current is turned on again, and the magnetic field opens the contacts again. This cycle repeats many times per second, while power is applied to the coil. A similar mechanism is used in the electric bell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the circuit opens each time, the energy stored in the solenoid's magnetic field is released and by electromagnetic induction produces a pulse of high voltage in the secondary coil winding. This voltage is sufficient to fire a spark plug located in the engine's cylinder, igniting the petrol mixture.&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trembler_coil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between a trembler coil and a modern ignition coil is that in a modern coil the primary current is broken only once by the contact breaker for each cycle of the piston, creating a single spark. In the trembler coil, in contrast, each &amp;quot;break&amp;quot; of the trembler contact produces a pulse of high voltage from the coil. &lt;strong&gt;During the time the points in the timer are closed, the vibrating trembler arm produces a series of high voltage pulses, producing multiple sparks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where MSD got the idea for Multiple Spark Discharge, only they use electronics and modern capacitors to get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trembler_coil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T01:17:37.367" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:27:31.180" Score="5" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the understanding that most all vehicles have at least 2 grounds wires, what items would add to the list of minimum requirements for a safe grounding system.&lt;br /&gt; An 'item' is defined as an object needing a dedicated ground.&lt;br /&gt; I have seen as many as 3 - 5 ground wires in one vehicle.&lt;br /&gt; ALL of these ground wires return to the main battery negative (-) post.&lt;br /&gt; Please do not answer with something only 'James Bond' would use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16540" LastEditorDisplayName="user16540" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T01:35:59.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T01:50:36.387" Title="What would be the need for more than 2 ground wires in any car, truck, suv, van?" Tags="|safety|ground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29252" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:50:36.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sensitive electronic devices need a dedicated ground directly to the battery to cut down on DC line noise, in other words they need a clean as possible DC voltage supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles do not have easily accessible good grounds, so its an installers choice just to go to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times the installer is not smart enough to find/determine a good ground close to the device, so they run a wire to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have installed quite a few of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-systemshtml&quot;&gt;FAST fuel injection systems&lt;/a&gt; on hot rods, and they require both power leads to be connected directly to the battery terminals, and yes it matters if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T01:50:36.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T02:12:44.293" Score="4" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered LED tail lights for my Jeep (made by KC, not something super sketchy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have LED turn signals up front (before I realized they looked aweful).  I remember that the LED turn signal unit made them blink at a decent speed, but the turn signal arrows on my Jeep's instrument cluster were always dimly illuminated which is what happens when it thinks your running lights are out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there's a way to use the new tail light units without load resisters and have both the blink rate and the cluster indicators normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T14:28:34.263" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:28:34.263" Title="Help installing LED tail lights" Tags="|jeep|turn-signal|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-03T14:59:52.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27483" CreationDate="2016-05-03T03:26:59.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 2001 corolla with similar symptoms. It turned out being a evap issue. &#xA;A real pain in the butt to diagnose. The thing you have to watch with corolla is when you fuel it. Make sure you stop at the first click. Accidentally  overfilling can mess up the charcoal canister can make your life living hell. &#xA;A stuck purge valve can cause flooding issues when hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved my problem by trading it and buying a 2012 Honda....I didn't have the patience for a extensive and expensive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T03:26:59.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25478" CreationDate="2016-05-03T03:36:45.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0171:  oxygen sensor in bank 1 has detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust).  the side of the engine that has P0171 is one of the more common trouble codes. This code is triggered by the first downstream (front) O2 sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bank #1 refers to the side which has cylinder #1, In a 4 cylinder it is the cylinder in the front of the engine. The downstream O2 sensor monitors the condition of the catalytic convertor. If it senses O2-Houston we have a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF (Mass Air Flow)sensor.&#xA;The MAF sensor is essentially is a sensor with a hot platinum wire and a thermistor. The idea is to maintain the same temperature in the wire. When the air flows over the wire cooling it. The current required to maintain the temperature is proportional to the air flow. Very accurate and responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible cracked vacuum or PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation line/connection)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) The up stream sensor tell the ECM how to keep the air fuel mixture&#xA;optimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor. The leak fools the sensor triggering the lean condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Can be cleaned with disc brake cleaner or anything that doesn't leave a residue. Ordinary throttle cleaners will leave a residue and render the sensor useless. Be very careful when handling a MAF sensor they are fragile and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T04:05:29.830" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T04:05:29.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T04:13:49.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this car about a month ago with an overheating problem it couldn't travel for 3 miles without overheating after replacing the thermostat and gasket.  The previous owners cut away the thermostat and left the ring for the gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After flushing the system completely and getting all kinds of junk/gunk out of it until it ran clear.  I put the old piece and new gasket back in and it will run fine until it gets to a hill.  Found out the water pump needed changed.  Just got done changing it and switched to the new thermostat and it is back to overheating again after 3 miles.  The system has been bled of air every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what I should do now I have found no signs of a head gasket leak or water leaking anywhere.  What should I do now?  My mechanic and I are thinking two different things.  They think a plugged radiator while I'm thinking the Temperature sensor switch.  I'm about to go back to the cut up thermostat.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17088" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T21:20:28.130" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T21:20:28.130" Title="Overheating '98 Subaru Legacy Outback EJ 25" Tags="|subaru|cooling-system|overheating|outback|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29274" CreationDate="2016-05-03T04:18:46.760" Score="0" ViewCount="3939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this depends on a lot of factors but I heard a revolution can happen in&#xA;0.02 second is this the case? I can't even stop my stop watch that fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:04:33.933" Title="How fast is one RPM on average?" Tags="|rpm|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29257" CreationDate="2016-05-03T04:37:38.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lack of system flow or a radiator that cannot transfer heat are the only real options remaining. But since the water pump and thermostat are new and there are no air bubbles in the system the system should be able to flow freely as long a the radiator is not plugged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause the overheating is a plugged radiator. A nearly 20 year old radiator is always suspect. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why the fans are an unlikely cause. The radiator sees more than enough air flow while driving; the fans are not needed and in fact should not come on. Cooling fans should only come on when the vehicle is not moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T04:37:38.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29258" CreationDate="2016-05-03T05:20:09.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a car rpm are very often shown. From experience you might know that for a normal car it varies between 1000 and 3000 rpm for normal use cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3000 rpm = 50 rotations per second = 1 rotation per 0.02 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17091" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T05:20:09.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29359" CreationDate="2016-05-03T05:23:50.470" Score="5" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of getting my 1982 Honda Magna back in running condition. I've cleaned out the carb and put in a new battery. It now runs, but dumps a TON of coolant out the tailpipe. Almost a constant stream. It blows a bit of white smoke, has trouble idling, and overheats rather quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps should I take to diagnose and fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17090" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2023-11-29T11:33:47.003" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T11:33:47.003" Title="Motorcycle dumping coolant from tailpipe" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-system|troubleshooting|mc-magna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29258" CreationDate="2016-05-03T05:24:22.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Divide the measured RPM by 60 gives the number of revolutions per second. For an engine at idle that would be about 12 revs per second. At a 7500 rpm redline it is 116 revolutions per second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combustion engineering is done in degrees of crankshaft rotation and milliseconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T05:24:22.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29266" CreationDate="2016-05-03T05:56:02.660" Score="20" ViewCount="36085" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of the Haynes manuals for my cars list refilling the refrigerant in your car as a do it yourself procedure.  Both vehicles use R-134a refrigerant and the manual shows them being recharged with a simple hose without a pressure gauge on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also watched the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHg2xRMnM38&quot;&gt;ChrisFix video&lt;/a&gt; on recharging your A/C refrigerant, which makes it look simple, safe and easy.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007USCM7E&quot;&gt;product he uses in the video&lt;/a&gt; comes with a pressure gauge and contains sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I started reading the many &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007USCM7E&quot;&gt;one star reviews&lt;/a&gt;, things didn't look so simple or safe.  Many people destroyed their compressors, by either overfilling or by the sealant clogging their compressors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting one reviewer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have spoken to a couple of different shops and both have said they see person after person come in with issues from these home kits. They don't show the amount that goes in, just the pressure in the system. Well that isn't nearly enough information since &lt;strong&gt;the weight is what is important&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and another one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't use this unless you have professional gauges. You can likely borrow them (appropriate gauges) from Auto Zone or equivalent. Or, just do what I eventually did, take it to Jiffy Lube (or equivalent) and let them remove all the refrigerant and refill to factory specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is not about this specific product, I'm just using it and the reviews as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What issues can I run into trying to recharge my A/C refrigerant myself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What equipment do I need to do it safely ( for me and the A/C system) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What issues are there with sealants?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I get a refill that contains compressor oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would I be better off just paying a shop to do it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T09:23:25.823" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:53:10.913" Title="What are the dangers of refilling your air conditioner yourself?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:10:49.720" Score="6" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like my car disengage itself from drive to neutral while in motion. I drive a 2004 Honda Accord. When in drive and in motion, the car starts slowing down even with my foot on accelerator.  It seems like it shifts  into neutral itself. After about 10 seconds it seems to reconnect and starts moving again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, what is the explanation for these symptoms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17092" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T07:21:20.933" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T05:30:05.737" Title="Transmission disengages itself" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29271" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:14:24.750" Score="5" ViewCount="5038" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad is convinced someone slashed his tire at work, but I think this could be a blowout.  Is there any way to tell the difference from looking at the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this look like a slash or a blowout, or something else possibly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbQA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbQA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17093" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T10:48:06.233" Title="Tire slash or blowout on 2005 Corvette" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29263" CreationDate="2016-05-03T06:45:17.903" Score="15" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What issues can I run into trying to recharge my A/C refrigerant&#xA;  myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common DIY problem is overfilling oil, under or overcharging refrigerant and installing the virus that are sealants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What equipment do I need to do it safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloves and safety glasses. The PAG oil used is not good for humans and the gas can cause frostbite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What issues are there with sealants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealants rarely work well if at all. They can plug critical parts such as expansion devices or heat exchangers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I get a refill that contains compressor oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the oil amount is set during build and it impossible to know how much is might have been lost. Overfilling reduces system performance and under filling will destroy the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would I be better off just paying a shop to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two key issues that make this a non-DIY job. A high vacuum must be pulled on the system to ensure that every last bit of air is out. And the refrigerant must be carefully weighed during installation. A few ounces over or under can significantly affect system performance. The DIY install systems only show one of the available pressure readings and in any case charge amount cannot be determined from pressure readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T06:45:17.903" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29276" CreationDate="2016-05-03T09:02:20.343" Score="11" ViewCount="84527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get to know my fuse and relay boxes better. They're labelled, but the labels are mostly acronyms and shorthand, and googling any particular acronym gives a lot of mentions of common tasks on forums but not any definitions or explanations (at least not that I can find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's probably easier to ask them all together and create a definitive go-to guide than have over a dozen questions which for an expert are absurdly easy with potentially one word answers. Maybe a great answer could help a novice like me understand how the different items interrelate. Note that StackExchange policy on &quot;list questions&quot; are that they're okay if they're clearly bounded and finite, like this, it's never-ending lists with an unlimited number of possibilities that are &quot;too broad&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are specific to my 1998 Toyota RAV4, but it'd be good to have a definitive universal resource, so please comment and/or feel free to include in answers any common ones for other makes that are missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Relays&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E/G Main &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H-LP &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ST (I suspect this controls the starter motor but could be wrong)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EFI (95% sure this is &quot;Engine Fuel Injection&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MG/C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DIM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuse acronyms are all detailed in the owner's guide, which for this model is available online, but &lt;strong&gt;relays are not detailed in the owner's guide at all&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T03:10:08.067" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T03:10:08.067" Title="Meaning of relay acronyms: H-LP, E/G, DIM etc" Tags="|toyota|relay|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25412" CreationDate="2016-05-03T09:15:10.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The culprit in this specific case was the steering pump pulley - it developed a slight play along the axis and the auxiliary belt started rubbing the sides of the pulley ridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since no one has a more comprehensive answer for similar issues I can try answering it myself now that I am more knowledgeable in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Causes of the noise&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The auxiliary belt can produce an annoying squeaky noise for two main reasons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slipping on the pulleys;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubbing a misaligned pulley.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one it is can be determined from the noise it makes. If it is a constant &quot;squeal&quot; that occurs or increases in volume when the RPM is increased (especially when the engine is cold), the belt is likely to be slipping on the pulleys, making a god-awful noise. If the noise is a more subtle periodic &quot;chirp&quot; - the culprit is probably the belt ridges/sides excessively rubbing the groove sides of the pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure there is one easy test that can be done. Take a spray bottle of water and lightly spray some on the belt and on the pulleys while the noise is occurring. If it suddenly goes silent - it indeed is a misaligned pulley. You just lubricated the part that was rubbing and the noise went away, unfortunately it will come back soon. If the noise suddenly got louder - your belt is slipping and it temporarily started slipping even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also inspect the belt itself if you're still not sure, but it usually requires the belt to be removed. If you see fraying on the edge of a belt this usually indicates rubbing a misaligned pulley, if it was happening for long enough. Glazed grooves or edges of the belt indicate that the belt was overheating from excessive slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Causes of slipping&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic cause for slipping would be a simply worn belt. It usually shouldn't cause the belt to slip, but it might it if wasn't replaced after previous repairs. The only way here is to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another simple cause is fluid contamination. Coolant, oil, power steering fluid and brake fluid can seep into the ridges, attracting dirt and causing slippage. Cleaning the belt and pulleys off with a rubber friendly degreaser should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt is in pristine condition and dry, yet still slips - the reason is most likely insufficient tension provided by the belt tensioner. Usually on newer cars the tensioner is spring loaded and retains tension automatically. If the tensioner does not do its job - it needs to be replaced. I believe manual tensioners exist as well, which means they might need to be adjusted as the belt ages and stretches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A temporary fix for a slipping belt could be belt dressing, as suggested in the comments. It's a sticky substance that basically increases the friction between the belt and the pulleys, reducing slippage. However it also attracts dirt, which will need cleaning off the pulleys when the belt will finally be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Causes of rubbing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the belt is rubbing a misaligned pulley, then one of the pulleys has a different offset (&lt;em&gt;parallel misalignment&lt;/em&gt;) or a different angle (&lt;em&gt;angular misalignment&lt;/em&gt;) than the rest. Parallel misalignment occurs when the pulley is not pressed onto the shaft far enough or pressed too far. This can be checked by placing a straight ruler across adjacent pulleys - they should be perfectly parallel. There might also be lateral looseness in the pulley because of a failing bearing, which would not be shown by this test. If the misalignment is angular, it is likely caused by a worn bearing as well. In either case a bearing problem can be found by taking off the belt and grabbing each of the pulleys, giving them a few tugs and shakes - there should be practically no wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV9rU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV9rU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pulley misalignment types&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(borrowed from &lt;em&gt;flowcontrolnetwork.com&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there are any inaccuracies in this text - please feel free to edit, my knowledge might be flawed here.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T13:27:49.180" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:27:49.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29269" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-03T09:20:03.260" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T09:20:03.260" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T09:20:03.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29270" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-03T09:20:03.260" Score="0" Body="A serpentine belt is a belt used to drive peripheral devices in an automotive engine. Devices may include an alternator, power steering pump, water pump, air conditioning compressor, air pump, etc." OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T15:35:31.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:35:31.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29265" CreationDate="2016-05-03T10:48:06.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like stone damage to me - I think if it was deliberate it'd be a much cleaner cut, and wouldn't have the scuffs and marks around - I'd say it has done a fair few miles between the initial damage and it finally failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T10:48:06.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29310" CreationDate="2016-05-03T13:43:08.673" Score="5" ViewCount="2113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few different questions that popped into my head after reading about preloading the shifter in motorbikes, here's one of three:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting between 1st and 2nd on a motorbike - will the bike auto-shift into neutral because of preloading and that being in neutral doesn't require any kind of &quot;engage&quot; to happen? If not, could someone help me clear up the specific mechanism going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I didn't realise you can only post one question every 40 minutes, so I'll integrate the other two questions into this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shifting between 1st and 2nd - as there is a greater gap to kick up from 1st to 2nd, do you need to do anything differently to allow for a smooth transition?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shifting with preload: how much pressure should you put on the shifter? i.e. Should you apply light pressure until you feel it go and then harder pressure to then getting it into gear? Does this differ depending on gear? ...I'd like to know as much as possible before potentially damaging my transmission!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastEditorUserId="15806" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T13:49:28.723" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T21:59:56.387" Title="Shifting on a motorbike by preloading" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29263" CreationDate="2016-05-03T13:53:10.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I recommend option #5.Refrigerant will cause frostbite in sufficient quantity. If you are unfamiliar with the principles of A/c you could damage the compressor. If you accidentally inhale you can be poisoned by it. You have to know which line to charge the system the vapor line or liquid line . If you do not know -Do not attempt it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refrigerant poisoning happens when someone is exposed to the chemicals used to cool appliances. Refrigerant is a tasteless, mostly odorless gas. When it is deeply inhaled, it can cut off vital oxygen to your cells and lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limited exposure — for example, a spill on your skin or breathing near an open container — is only mildly harmful. However, you should try to avoid all contact with these types of chemicals. Even small amounts can cause symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inhaling these fumes on purpose to “get high” can be very dangerous. It can be fatal even the very first time you do it. Regularly inhaling high concentrations of refrigerant can cause issues such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;breathing problems&#xA;fluid buildup in the lungs&#xA;organ damage&#xA;sudden death&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go Option #5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:53:10.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29258" CreationDate="2016-05-03T13:56:13.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a math-only question, and no one has explained the formulas.  Also I like the idea of this simple question having multiple answers so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RPM is Revolutions Per Minute, but we want a time in seconds.  When you hear that word &quot;per&quot; it means division.  So, what we have is &lt;em&gt;4000 revolutions / 1 minute&lt;/em&gt; (where / is the division symbol).  This easily converts to &lt;em&gt;4000 revolutions / 60 seconds&lt;/em&gt;.  The result of that (4000/60=) is &lt;em&gt;66.66 revolutions / 1 second&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have revolutions per second, but you want seconds per revolution (what we have, flipped upside down).  So, simply enough, we flip the whole thing upside down to get &lt;em&gt;1 second / 66.66 revolutions&lt;/em&gt;, and the result is (1/66.66=) &lt;em&gt;0.015 seconds / 1 revolution&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, flip that around grammatically and we get &quot;1 revolution takes 0.015 seconds&quot;.  Which is 15 milliseconds, but I'll leave that conversion as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T13:56:13.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29267" CreationDate="2016-05-03T14:11:45.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legend to Codes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E/G - Main is the relay for the Radiator fans.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EFI - Is the electronic fuel injection relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIM - is the headlight dimmer relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H-LP - is the headlamp relay.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MG/C - is the air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch relay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ST - is the starter relay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T22:10:11.230" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T22:10:11.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29272" CreationDate="2016-05-03T14:38:32.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience on as many different bikes as some people, but here's what I have found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &quot;preloading&quot; the shifter, were talking about pressing on it just a little before you are ready to shift.  The force needed from bike to bike will vary, so it's something you will just have to try and figure out.  A motorcycle transmission is not like a car's, and you won't get &quot;stuck between gears&quot; or cause any catastrophic damage from practicing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would start the learning process after second gear.  Apply a light amount of force to the shifter and slightly drop the throttle.  The transmission should just &quot;fall&quot; into gear.  It happens quickly and smoothly, so you don't need extra force per se - you just need to make sure you follow through with the shift.  In other words, you're not going to have to force it into gear, but you can't just leave your foot in the same position.  Follow through with the shift like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've applied more than a little force to the shifter, and in my experience, it just won't shift until you feather the clutch or drop the throttle a little.  Now, I didn't stand on the shifter - I'm just saying there is a definite margin of error in your preloading force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, back to 1st, 2nd, and the gap in between... I never noticed a major issue here, but the follow through is very important (why we practiced it already).  Be deliberate about the shift to make sure you don't get stuck in neutral.  Also, don't try to go from 2nd to 1st without the clutch.  That's normally a pretty rough shift anyway unless the bike is moving very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:38:32.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29258" CreationDate="2016-05-03T15:04:33.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;60 seconds. RPM stands for Revolutions Per Minute. if you have one RPM then it takes 60 seconds to do a complete revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there are ways to convert from RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) to seconds per revolution or other such measurements as mentioned in other answers however they do not answer the actual question asked of how fast &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; RPM is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:04:33.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T15:09:18.910" Score="4" ViewCount="9009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is true but I've heard that in order to fix my ABS light, they have to remove the module and send it out to reprogram.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17103" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T15:54:16.057" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:29:07.113" Title="Do I have to reprogram the ABS module to fix the ABS light on 528i BMW?" Tags="|bmw|repair|abs|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2016-05-03T15:53:45.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ABS light is an indicator of an error caught by the ECU. It usually is an error for a defective ABS sensor or a related brake issue. It's difficult to tell what exactly it is without reading the error code. Some specific problem might be fixed by reprogramming the ABS module, others won't. Depends on the issue and the year of your 528i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the issue fixed the light will either go off by itself, or will go off when the related error will be cleared from the ECU memory with a dedicated scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:53:45.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:17:01.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is an E39 or E60 chassis, you should be able to use GT1/DIS or INPA to probe the computer and figure out what is setting the ABS light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of possibilities that might cause this, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lack of wheel speed sensor signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;failed seals in the ABS unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;failed solders (usually microscopic cracks) that prevent the solenoids from actuating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T16:17:01.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T17:01:29.403" Score="3" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Mazda Protege with a 5-speed manual transmission.  In recent months, I have noticed something that I believe is the clutch slipping.  Sometimes when I am accelerating to highway speeds, one of the gears will not want to &quot;seat&quot; so the RPMs stay kind of high unless I back off the gas for a bit.  More recently, when accelerating up a hill, the car will occasionally try to come out of gear (RPMs go from ~3000 up to over 3500 and the cruise will usually shut off).  Am I correct that this means the clutch is wearing out?  I have not noticed any of these symptoms when not going highway speeds.  There are no weird noises (besides high RPM), no bad smells from driving, and it shifts into all gears just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that these are symptoms of clutch failure, how likely is it that I could fix this on my own?  I have a decent amount of mechanical experience, but I've never done any transmission work besides a flush and filter on automatics.  By experience, I mean I have repaired or replaced most external components on the engine, and done brake, axle, and steering repairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me an idea of what parts would need to be replaced for these symptoms and how hard it is to do?  Are there any other diagnostics I can do to further tell what parts need to be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T17:54:45.037" Title="I think my clutch is failing, how can I tell what needs to be replaced?" Tags="|clutch|mazda|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29284" CreationDate="2016-05-03T17:54:45.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a slipping clutch it will get worse soon, and you will know for sure, from your description, yes it is slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours is a FWD car, they are a bit more difficult than a RWD most of the time, you will need an engine support bar to hold the engine while you remove the transmission, after the trans is out this support bar will suspend the engine so it does not hang on the motor mounts or even fall out on the ground. This is the most important tool you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmSBZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmSBZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as parts, clutches are sold in Kits here in the USA, it has everything you need including the disc alignment pilot tool. Kits I buy come with a Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Throw Out Bearing (when applicable), and a clutch pilot tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the trans is out and the pressure plate and disc are removed, you will see the flywheel, it has a surface that the clutch disc wears down, to do a first rate job, pull the flywheel and take to an Automotive machine shop to have it resurfaced. Careful when removing it is heavier than it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a difficult job if you have never done one before, but if you have the time I am sure you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T17:54:45.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2016-05-03T18:41:45.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine turned out to be missing clips on the pads almost look like a spacer of sorts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17105" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T18:41:45.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:17:14.920" Score="4" ViewCount="6490" Body="&lt;p&gt;If lightning strikes a tree in your yard and your car is close by, can this cause your car to not work properly?  I had an employee call in stating that lightning struck a tree beside their mobile home and now her car will not go into reverse or drive, sounded like it was running, so I'm a little baffled at this.  Can any one shed a little &quot;light&quot; , please. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jackie G" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T23:06:51.207" LastActivityDate="2022-08-20T20:22:24.497" Title="Can a lightning strike cause your car to not run?" Tags="|electrical|theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29287" CreationDate="2016-05-03T12:23:12.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. A sufficiently large EMP will wipe out or damage the engine control computer or other electronics. However, bear in mind that the electronics most likely to be damaged will be the car radio because of its connection to an antenna and the fact that radios are far less robust than electronics designed to work in the engine area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Dirk Bruere" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T15:21:43.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29290" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:20:41.353" Score="7" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving soon and will be towing my car (2003 Honda Civic EX w/ automatic transmission) about 1,600 miles. The car will be towed behind a box truck on a trailer, i.e. the wheels will not be on the ground. Do I need to do anything special to prepare the car for the trip? Like make sure my gas tank is full/empty? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:28:35.640" Title="Prepare car for long distance towing" Tags="|towing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29289" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:28:35.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the car will be on a trailer there's not much that you need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the tire pressure, and fix any tires that have a leak.  If the car is strapped down, depending on how you strap it, a tire loosing air could make the strap loose.  This isn't likely to be catastrophic, but it's something that will be nice to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't live in an area with a lot of rain, you might want to make sure all the windows are tight and leak free by running through a car wash a few times.  In 1600 miles you're likely to see &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; rain.  Close the sun roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, make sure the car is in good running condition so it's not a stranded lump on the trailer when you get to the destination, and remember to lock the car while it's on the trailer just like you would anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy trails!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:28:35.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:45:41.963" Score="13" ViewCount="112794" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a car with an automatic transmission, we are normally greeted by the acronym PRNDL, or in some cases (older cars) PRND21.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the L, 1, or 2 will cause the transmission to stay in a (L)ow gear and not upshift, but I've heard various explanations of what the low gears are for.  I've only used them to play around with, and never felt like I had a &lt;em&gt;reason&lt;/em&gt; to use them.  It's the automatic's job to pick the correct gear, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="44515" LastEditDate="2024-01-15T19:10:42.453" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T19:10:42.453" Title="What are the &quot;1&quot; and &quot;2&quot; or &quot;L&quot; gears used for on an automatic?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|terminology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:51:52.523" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;To go down hill&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By setting L (or 1 or 2), the gear will stay low and you will be able to use engine brake, instead of using brakes all the way down the hill and suffering from fading. The transmission will not necessarily pick a lower gear when going downhill, although they will pick a low gear if you are going uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never brake the car for an extended time when going downhill.&lt;/strong&gt; This can be a life or death decision, specially if you are crossing a mountain pass. If you use the brakes for a extended time, besides needing to maintain them more often, you may risk having no brakes after a while. Truck drivers should always do that and often there are sign on the side of the highways remembering to do that. Usually those signs read &quot;Use low gear&quot;. For trucks that don't do that or that suffered a brake failure for other reasons, there are escape ramps filled with sand or other material to reduce the speed of runaway trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally always use L whenever is safe to do so in order to save fuel and the brake pads. It is a habit that I kept since I started driving (in a stick shift).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="10131" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T11:54:47.647" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T11:54:47.647" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:57:16.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I've ever felt the &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to use anything other than 'D' in an automatic is when towing or climbing a steep grade. That's not to say I don't play around like it's a stick shift sometimes, but as you said, it's not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day, I had to pull a damaged car (one wheel was locked up) across an apt complex. I put the tow car in 1 in order to keep the torque and speed up, instead of allowing it to shift into second and dropping the engine out of the power band. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when climbing a steep highway grade in an under-powered 4 cylinder car, I left it in 3, because it kept wanting to shift into 4th, then it wouldn't have enough torque to hold 70 mph, so I'd have my foot to the floor and it would downshift into 3rd to get the speed back, and so on and so forth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: gabrieldiego's answer reminded me I do that too, having gotten so used to driving manual transmissions. Because the torque converter is not a direct link to the engine, however, it doesn't slow you down nearly as much as engine braking with a manual transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:57:16.990" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2016-05-03T21:22:33.180" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two additional uses alongside engine braking controlling downhill descents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Low gear, high revs uphill on loose ground like sand&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to go up a steep hill on loose terrain like a sandy dirty track, dune or fine gravel, you need to build up momentum before hitting the incline and you need to put your foot down and get high revs for the speed you're travelling at. Leaving an automatic on D risks it going up a gear too quickly,  having insufficient power and losing momentum on encountering the incline leaving you in stuck with wheel spin. Fixing the gear in 1 or L lets you put your foot down and get the high revs necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lost a tire in a remote African village attempting a dusty sandy hill in D then losing momentum like this. After changing wheel with some help from the villagers, then rolling all the way down to flat ground, I hit it in L with foot firmly down and cruised over the hill like it wasn't there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/guides-and-manuals/off-road-driving.html&quot;&gt;Land Rover's off road driving guide&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deep mud or sand needs a steady momentum to carry you through ... in sand, the lower gear the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Higher gear, low revs on ice and mud&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much power when driving in icy conditions or wet mud will simply cause the wheels to slip, so you might want to put the gear in to 2nd and then drive with low revs. In D, it might drop down a gear and you'd have too much power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Land Rover again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In mud, too low a gear causes wheel spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/8443690.stm&quot;&gt;More from the BBC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stay in a higher gear for better control, and if it is slippery, in a manual car move off in a higher gear, rather than just using first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In very bad conditions, crawling along in 2nd (and possibly even starting in second, depending on how the particular automatic transmission adapts) might be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T21:35:30.703" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T21:35:30.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T22:05:41.683" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LED bulb unit that sits between the headlamp assembly and the rad has gone. I have bought a new complete unit (two led strips inside) but cannot see how to unplug the old one and plug in the new one. It looks like I have to take the bumper off to access the connection which is a big job. Is that right or am I missing something?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17100" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T22:05:41.683" Title="Volvo V60/S60 &lt;2012 LED bulb replacement" Tags="|volvo|led|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2016-05-03T23:41:55.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the others has stated &lt;em&gt;why you might want to use&lt;/em&gt; one of the lower gears, they aren't explaining what happens when you actually use the lower gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, when you put the vehicle into &quot;2&quot;, the transmission goes into second gear. You don't start in first gear, then shift up to second, &lt;em&gt;it starts in 2nd gear&lt;/em&gt;. This reduces the amount of torque going to the wheels, which may help in situations where you want to reduce wheel spin, such as when stuck in the mud/snow. Having the wheels turn slower actually helps in this situation, as spinning most of the times will just get you &lt;em&gt;stuck worse&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T23:41:55.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29298" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:14:55.650" Score="11" ViewCount="39012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw another thread that was similar, but it didn't a definitive or clear answer on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be brief. I want to install a Nexus 7 (2012) tablet in the dash of my car. I want it to be able to display video from a backup camera that I will mount in the trunk of the car. The camera will just be a Logitech webcam that I already have, but it uses USB. This is fine, because I'll just use a USB OTG Y cable with the tablet so that I can charge it and send the video data to it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I want the camera to automatically display the video on the tablet when I go in reverse, but I need a way to detect this. After some research, I've concluded that I should splice in the power cable from the USB directly to the wire to the reverse lights, connect the ground cable to the car chassis, and then just send the data wires up front to the tablet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;is it okay if I just splice the power wire from the USB directly into the reverse lights?&lt;/strong&gt; That way, when the reverse lights go on, the camera goes on, and the video app launches. &lt;strong&gt;My concern is that I could either be drawing too much power from the reverse lights, or the reverse lights provide too much power to the camera, which takes 500mA, per the USB 2.0 specification.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I were to do this, would I have to watch out whether I spliced the wire into a positive or negative wire for the reverse lights? Do those play some part in the switch that determines whether the lights are on or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17110" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T05:33:12.327" Title="Is it okay to splice a backup camera into the reverse lights?" Tags="|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2016-05-04T00:34:35.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that you can splice the camera into the reverse lights, as the current draw is minor. However, since the camera is USB, it is expecting 5V, and your reverse lights operate at 12V, so you will need to regulate the voltage. What you're looking for is a DC-DC converter, and if you look around eBay, you can find one that has USB connector at the output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify the current draw, the camera draws 500mA at 5V, but since your source is 12V, and accounting for some inefficiency in the conversion, your camera will draw closer to 250mA. Also, as this is often  misunderstood, even if you find a DC-DC converter rated for 3A, the camera will only draw what it needs. You just need to make sure the voltage output is 5V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T00:34:35.083" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2016-05-04T01:17:29.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If I understand your intent correctly. The backup light is activated by a  12 volt source. USB is a 5 volt source. You would cook your camera and Nexus 7 unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;USB plug pins:(If I remember correctly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;       1: +5 V @ .5A (500mA)&#xA;&#xA;       2:  DATA+&#xA;&#xA;       3:  DATA-&#xA;&#xA;       4:  GROUND(0 V)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a alternative 5 V source like another USB feed that came with the car. Then use a 12V  relay to act as the triggering mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+12V-----from lightbulb------to relay coil----to ground 0V&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+5V----from alternate USB plug----relay contact with spring on it. This will power the camera and the Nexus 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+5V USB from Camera and Nexus USB to relay contact marked N.O.-(Normally Open)- When coil is energized it will close and activate the units. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connect all the USB grounds together to complete the circuit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relay doesn't have to large one. Just a 12V coil with the contact rated about 2A - a solid state one would be OK. Just read up on USB plugs on how to wire up and on relays. Wikipedia would probably have this info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are small devices that plug into your 12V power socket that have a USB source. Available near the counter at corner stores, truck stops also sells them as well for about $5 a pop.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DC to DC converter not required.....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with a another brilliant idea using a 7805 voltage regulator chip. Regulated 5V source straight from the backup light 12V source &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12v from backlight or reverse switch connection by shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12v-----7805 regulator----5V out direct to usb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5V feeding usb cabling in a T configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side of the T goes to camera ,other side goes to Nexus 7 unit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggering is done by the swich itself..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/GSzVs7_aW-Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/GSzVs7_aW-Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T19:52:35.573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T19:52:35.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T02:13:37.793" Score="2" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project with a group of friends. We have built a vehicle using a hydraulic orbital steering valve from an old ditch witch. The vehicle goes left but not right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 5 ports on the valve. Every valve is plumbed the way it is labeled except one. Left and right are plumbed in. Aux,out, and an unlabeled port. The in port is plugged because it came off the ditch witch that way. The inlet is in the port labeled out and everything else except the inlet port plumbed the way it is labeled. The steer goes easy left but will not go right. What would cause the steering to go left but not right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8Zdw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8Zdw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;orbital valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="13092" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T02:35:54.027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T02:35:54.027" Title="Hydraulic steering goes left but not right" Tags="|steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:12:28.623" Score="3" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty sure my evaporator core has a leak, super expensive to fix. Can I just charge it 3 times a year or so? Is this going to damage my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17112" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:41:58.147" Title="Will I damage my car if I don't fix evaporator core leak?" Tags="|ford|ac|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29264" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:14:59.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These Honda transmissions are prone to failure. Which is unfortunate. I have the same car and the transmission failed at about 130,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the transmission fluid. With the engine off and the car on a level surface remove the transmission dipstick, clean and put it back in and then pull it out. Now you should see the level at the upper mark. The fluid color should be that of red tinted tea. This fluid is a not a generic type, it is particular to Honda. If the fluid is full and not to dirty the failure is most likely a failure of one or more of the clutches. This would require the unit be removed and repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your symptoms suggest that a clutch has failed and that the material from that clutch is filling the filter thus blocking oil supply to rest of the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:14:59.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29301" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:41:58.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A/C systems that are run low on refrigerant fail faster than those that are kept full. This is because the refrigerant circulates to oil that lubricates the compressor. An un-lubricated compressor will wear out. So just after filling the oil will circulate normally but as the refrigerant level drops so will compressor lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it is less than ideal to leak R134a refrigerant into the atmosphere; it is a greenhouse gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:41:58.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:50:13.260" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kindly, I am facing a problem in my gear, when I am shifting the Gear from Neutral to Drive. When I am shifting from N to D ( meaning the Status now &quot; Drive &quot;) the car Screen show that the Gear is &lt;strong&gt;Neutral&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Drive&lt;/strong&gt; at the Same Time and the car can't drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem &quot;it may be the inhibitor switch&quot; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17113" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T06:14:59.070" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:42:37.477" Title="Gear Shifting from Neutral to Drive" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29309" CreationDate="2016-05-04T05:51:20.493" Score="7" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I daydream quite a bit about owning a Tesla Roadster, then it hit me. What happens when it's icy and I need to go get groceries? Well, in my Lotus Elise, I could easily just pop the thing in second gear, maybe even third, and feather the clutch. To the same effect on an automatic, I could put my '97 automatic Saturn in &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; (if I wanted to drive a &lt;em&gt;poor-person&lt;/em&gt; car). Unfortunately I don't know if my Tesla would understand that this is one of the few times in life where I don't need &lt;strong&gt;MAXIMUM POWER&lt;/strong&gt;. I can see myself fishtailing it right into the ditch pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That scenario set up, how do Electric cars deal with icy conditions? Their ridiculous low end torque sounds like they'd be a bad fit anywhere outside of say California and Florida. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To Clarify, this question is not about something the car does automatically, but the driver intentionally chooses to do, Ex: Explicitly putting a manual in 2nd or 3rd, or putting an automatic in 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastEditorUserId="7087" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T14:12:56.493" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:12:56.493" Title="Have any systems been created for electric cars to intentionally reduce torque in icy conditions?" Tags="|electric-vehicle|traction-control|ice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28902" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:06:51.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A High School auto shop teacher about 35 years as an experiment on a old shop car managed to do precisely that. Got the old car to 60+ MPH and slammed into reverse--suffice it to say it was not pretty. Idler shaft milled like a lathe, the gears....you don't wanna know...LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T06:06:51.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29217" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:33:09.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I Believe It's a Hose Connection Point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmetered air whether it's a negative pressure or positive pressure is bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I find it interesting that losing some of the boost isn't detected and triggering a CEL.  So that maps to your idea of a smaller leak along with the not subtle high pitched sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it were a bad gasket, I'd expect to hear a rising tone over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I completely agree.  It wouldn't suddenly release the pressure.  It would always be leaking and would therefore rise in tone over time with RPM increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Same if it were a hose clamp or a loose hose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not in agreement with this assumption.  I can see a clamped hose holding back pressure to a point and then releasing the pressure when the pressure overcomes a weakness in the hose mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hose clamps have a way of grabbing a surface in an inconsistent fashion across the entire length of their band.  They will tend to pull an area of the hose and bunch it up a bit in other areas.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=worm%20screw%20hose%20clamp&amp;amp;oq=worm%20screw%20hose%20clamp&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.4668j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worm screw type hose clamps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; are notorious for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose could be bunched up a bit or pulled together to create a small wave in the rubber to nozzle mating creating a tiny area that allows pressure out under the extreme circumstances as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remediation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try some of the following if your willing to take the hoses off and put them back on.  It was the only real change to the system so logic would dictate that this has something to do with the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lubricate the hose&lt;/strong&gt; Lubricate the hose to nozzle mating surface a bit with a light compatible oil that will not degrade the hose integrity.  I use spit to get handlebar grips onto handlebars, hoses onto sensors or air boxes, anything that is pushing rubber onto a fitting.  It doesn't harm the component and it's a good temporary lubricant.  I also never have to worry about if a particular lubricant will degrade my hose or fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean and Double Check&lt;/strong&gt;  Clean all of your surfaces well when you have the hoses off.  I'm sure you already did but having a little 300 grit sand paper in your hand or a brillo pad will be handy if you have to knock off any type of buildup or just smooth up a surface a bit.  Visual inspection solves most issues IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hose Clamps&lt;/strong&gt;  Procure a higher quality hose clamp. I usually use Oetiker type hose clamps.  They apply pressure evenly across the entire surface better than the worm screw hose clamp.  They tend not to grab the hose in one area and not another area.  They accept lubrication, spit, to allow the clamp to more evenly grab across the surface of the hose.  They're reliable, and they look quality.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=spring%20hose%20clamp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiW2d3X5b_MAhUB62MKHaINAxcQsAQISw&amp;amp;biw=1344&amp;amp;bih=740#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=spring%20action%20metal%20hose%20clamp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;spring action metal hose clamps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; are also very good at grabbing a hose across its entire surface well but the diameters you are dealing with may preclude them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here is an image of oetiker style hose clamps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIcQJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wIcQJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T06:33:09.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:43:59.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a 12v relay connected to the lights so then when the light comes on the relay will activate the camera running of a steady 5v input provided by the same USB cable you will use for data connected to your tablet's OTG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to not dim the light when powering the camera.&#xA;And you won't require a DC-DC converter appart from the one you use to power the tablet already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T08:20:17.947" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:20:17.947" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29305" CreationDate="2016-05-04T07:38:26.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The anti-lock system already monitors the individual speed of all wheels and reduces braking power of individual wheels when it detects it locking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, it is just a small step to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traction_control_system&quot;&gt;traction control systems&lt;/a&gt;, which applies the brake to individual wheels when they start to slip. In addition, motor power can be reduced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teslarati.com/how-tesla-model-s-traction-control-system-works/&quot;&gt;The Tesla has this system, too&lt;/a&gt;, and I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrI5hhSKzAQ&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; showing Model S on snow/ice. (The show starts at 1:30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T07:38:26.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29272" CreationDate="2016-05-04T07:45:00.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It won't damage your transmission unless it damages your transmission&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mtorcycle%20shift%20drum&amp;amp;oq=mtorcycle%20shift%20drum&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0.3418j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;shift drum&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  It has grooves in it around the outside diameter that the shift forks follow to slide gears into gear as the drum turns. This is the basis for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=constant%20mesh%20transmission&amp;amp;oq=constant%20mesh%20trans&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.5997j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=motorcycle%20constant%20mesh%20transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;constant mesh transmission&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It's the reason (other than regulatory) that motorcycles gears are shifted in numerical order.  The shift drum rotates to have the proper groove placement that the shift forks will follow sliding in the appropriate gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the outer edge of the end of the shift drum cylinder there are detentes with a spring loaded pin that fits into them.  The detente for neutral sits between 1st and 2nd gear and isn't as deeply set into the detente as the gears are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an answer explaining these transmissions.  Some more knowledge regarding how they work can help you understand the damage that you can do and how to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2411/what-is-the-technical-reason-the-engineer-decided-the-motorcycle-gear-pattern-as/23065#23065&quot;&gt;What is the technical reason the engineer decided the motorcycle gear pattern as follows?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We call what you are describing as speed shifting or shifting without the clutch.  The easiest way to start if you are good at downshift quickly is to speed shift while slowing down.  I recommend not speed shifting into 1st gear, if you over rev your engine you could destroy it and there's really not a need unless you are panic stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are slowing in third gear and the revs are about 6,000 RPM, apply pressure to the shift lever with your foot, not much at all.  The gears are locked into place by the back torque of the rear wheel.  Blip your throttle, it will unload the transmission from the back torque to temporarily unload your gear stack from any power input, at that moment your foot pressure should just slip the bike into 2nd gear, the revs will increase to mach the road speed and your done.  Once you have that principle down you can apply to upshifting and any other gear you want that's next in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for as 2nd to 1st and 1st to 2nd, allow yourself to go from 2nd to 3rd and on up as well as down the stack.  Once you have it nailed you'll be able to get through the 'neutral hole' easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T07:45:00.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T07:55:55.983" Score="6" ViewCount="3249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having this issue for a while on my 1999 &lt;em&gt;Volvo V40 T4&lt;/em&gt; manual. Whenever I shift and release the clutch quickly, the car often does a nasty bounce. Let me try to describe it with much detail as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I start going calmly in 1st, rev up to ~6000rpm, push in the clutch and switch to 2nd. Now if I release the clutch quickly, instead of shooting straight forward the car hesitates a bit for a split second, then shoots forward, then hesitates again less and shoots forward again. All of this happens in one fluid &quot;bouncing motion&quot;, as if the car was made of jello (the engine sound slightly accompanies it as well, as if a little bit of load is removed during the bounce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's softer, sometimes harder, I think it depends on how well the revs are matched. Problem is much more prominent in low gears, especially first to second. To avoid this shifts from lower gears must be done extra gently, to allow more clutch slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car feels a bit &quot;loose&quot; in general when driving. For example even if you take off from a dead stop, the start is never smooth - you can clearly feel the moment when the clutch stops slipping. Feels like as if at that exact moment torque is lost and then appears again some milliseconds later, also a sort of &quot;bounce&quot;. If I take off my foot off the accelerator while in a low gear and then step on it again, the car jerks rather aggressively, resembling the bounce a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bouncing feels fully mechanical, though. I don't think it's the engine misfiring, but rather some kind of looseness in the drivetrain. I always thought the reason for this was torn upper engine mounts (the car has 4: two upper, fixing the top sides to the chassis and two lower, fixing the center to the crossmember), however replacing them made things better only slightly, so I'm quite stumped here. The lower mounts are looking good. If one puts the car in gear and pushes it back and forth a little with the hood open some clearly noticeable engine movement can be seen, as if the top mounts are a too soft. Not sure if this is the cause, could make a video if that might be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This model has a dual mass flywheel, but it emits no classic rattling noise on idle that indicates spring defects. Could a worn DMF cause this? Any ideas what else it could be are truly appreciated, don't hesitate even if you're not sure, I'm running out of ideas here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; got a second pair of eyes to check the suspension for me. Everything seems in order as expected, was suggested that this may be caused by a worn DMF, gearbox or differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T08:47:46.333" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T18:28:03.377" Title="Car bounces back and forth after shifting" Tags="|volvo|manual-transmission|motor-mounts|dual-mass-flywheel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29312" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:03:49.710" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T08:03:49.710" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:03:49.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29313" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:03:49.710" Score="0" Body="Engine mount is a support that attaches the engine to the frame and dampens it's vibrations." OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T09:57:55.727" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:57:55.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29314" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:09:48.993" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T08:09:48.993" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:09:48.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29315" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:09:48.993" Score="0" Body="Dual mass flywheel is a type of flywheel that reduces vibrations because of it's special design, that incorporates two concentric flywheels connected by springs." OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T09:57:47.057" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:57:47.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28902" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:31:07.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no. Yes the engine would in theory be forced to rotate in reverse. No in practice because the extreme torque shock would simply strip the clutch shaft splines or even completely screw the shaft in two.&#xA;Please don't try this at home...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:31:07.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29304" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:42:37.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the shifter hasn't brought the transmission completely into drive. It is physically between the neutral and drive positions. I've seen this happen in my vehicle and it will not engage the gear. A simple remedy of shifting the lever back up fully into neutral, then back down into drive usually brings it fully into gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not work, you may have a linkage issue, where the connection between the shift lever and cable and/or the cable to transmission is worn, causing the transmission to not fully engage in the gear. If this were the case, you'd probably see the same issue going into reverse. The grommets between the cable/shifter and/or cable/transmission may need to be replaced to solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:42:37.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28902" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:51:43.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be made to work. As a teenager I tried the technique seen from Mad Max, with an old rear wheel drive car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While travelling forward at speed, press the clutch fully in, allow the engine revs to drop so no load on gears. Pop the brakes to briefly lock up the wheels. Then change into reverse, raise the revs to a high level (thinking nearly red-line) and dump the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep the revs high, what happens is the tyres immediately spin so you have very low torque. This is twitchy, but manageable. You must not let the revs drop until the car is stationary, as you don't want the engine to be driven backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer - the second time I tried this I killed the engine/transmission...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T16:41:42.350" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T16:41:42.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29176" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:12:58.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, drive about for a bit. This flushes all the oil through the system and sometimes this will drop the level back to where it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 'not much oil comes out the bottom' I'd guess you have an air bubble preventing proper draining. A short drive or a minute or two's idling will clear that out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a Subaru slightly over full is cheap insurance anyway :D (I'm a hater!! Tin can car!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T09:20:02.373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:20:02.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29132" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:33:05.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a simple household drain unblocking plunger. Simply suck it back out. Works 90% of the time :)&#xA;Edit from @Paulster: Ensure the plunger is wet - it seals properly then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T08:55:05.187" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T08:55:05.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:35:02.093" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have a 2000 Buick park ave v6 3800 series and the problem started as a small leak in the radiator from the little drain plug so I righted that and the leak moved to the whole opposite side of the radiator then I put stop leak in it (Polly my first n worst mistake) and it ran fine for like two hours then overheated and started making noise as if there was no oil in it and shut off while drivimg on freeway so i I checked oil let it cool down. Oil was low,  I put some in then started driving home which was only like 4 miles and as I got about 300 yards from my driveway it stop as engine light came on and now it Bailey wants to run as over flow bottle boils with engine light on and slowly  but surely gets hot. Can u help and please diagnose this problem and give me a rough estimate of labor costs and labor it will take to fix am I better off replacing motor as this one has 265,000 miles or should I buy new car. Thanks  ' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:13:46.230" Title="Overheating and more" Tags="|engine|overheating|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29218" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:38:33.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Europe, only tires with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodyear.eu/home_en/goodyear-quality/eu-tire-label/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EU Tire Label&lt;/a&gt; are allowed to be sold. Big brands were initially happy for the introduction of this label, but were disappointed about the results. Those &quot;crap&quot; Chinese tires were performing almost equal with the big brand tires, but cost half as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot people say &quot;it's your safety don't do it&quot;. The companies would be very happy if we would listen to those scary advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my own car, I needed a set of 225/40/18.&#xA;I did some research on the internet and looked for reviews, tests, and experiences. All those tests are sponsored by the big brands. Or the tires were not tested equally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people also do want to believe that their #1 brand tire is performing the best because of the marketing and the price they have paid for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to buy a set of Fortuna F2000 for less than half the cost of a set of Dunlop/Bridgestone tires, and they perform great, even in the Netherlands where it rains often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people tend to make pronouncements without substantiation or repeat each other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard these comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;There should be a reason why the tires are expensive.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;yeah the cheap tires are ok but it certain situations they require a longer brake distance&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Chinese tires are bad&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are tires that perform badly, but the big brand tires also have them. There aren't many manufacturers. If you research about it you will find out that there are huge companies selling different brands.&#xA;The #1 brands are paying alot for marketing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too much variables for testing a tire properly. For example look at Youtube for some tire tests and make a conclusion for yourself. Some tests with the same brands could have contrary results.&#xA;There is no 'best' tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires should also match your requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft rubber: extremely good grip, wears alot, higher fuel consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard rubber: less grip but lasts long, lower fuel consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And so on...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17116" LastEditorUserId="17116" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T11:58:55.580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T11:58:55.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29107" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:41:42.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take the length of the semi trailer from rear axle to towing pivot, that's technically your minimum turning radius. A driver who can get his tractor unit 90degrees to his trailer could make the turn. But it would be hard on the surface and his equipment. Why not design a straight through layout? Truckers hate tight maneuvers in big rigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:41:42.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29065" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:53:59.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methinks this sounds like a hydraulicked engine, boys... mechanic time! &#xA;Ouch. Expensive learning experience. &#xA;Too much oil in the crankcase can cause piston and conrod damage, ruptured oil seals and all sorts of of other mischief.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:53:59.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29321" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:54:02.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit difficult to diagnose over the internet, but it sounds like you have a coolant circulation problem as well as a pretty bad oil leak. I would take it to GMC or Chevrolet and pay them to diagnose it. It only costs $100.00. A skilled tech can tell you exactly whats wrong with it and how to go about fixing it. If it's a head gasket (Which it sounds like it might be), get rid of it and buy a new car. There are many things that can cause a car to overheat and leak oil. The 3800 in that car is very resilient, however one of the most common problems with them is head-gasket failure. I've changed many in my career, and it costs a lot of money for the costumer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still take it to someone to be looked at professionally. It could be as simple as a coolant leak, and your oil was conveniently low at the same time. I hope you get it figured out! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T09:54:02.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29218" CreationDate="2016-05-04T09:55:02.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by the results of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anwb.nl/auto/tests/bandentests/zomerbandentest/185-65-R15H&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tests carried out by consumer organizations&lt;/a&gt;: no-name/unknown-brand tires often don't perform as well as the well-known brands. Worse: performance tended to be uneven. Cheap tires that worked well in the dry would have 2x the stopping distance of all the others in the wet, for example. &#xA;There are outliers, both positive and negative of course. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anwb.nl/auto/tests/bandentests/zomerbandentest/225-45-R17Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;latest ANWB/ADAC test&lt;/a&gt;, an unknown brand was one of the top scorers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A-brands do spend more effort on research and production. They use more accurate machines for tire assembly, and they add steps to the production process to ensure quality and reduce the chance of failure. The price difference isn't just a matter of marketing. (source: conversations at a company that builds machines used in tire production. Tire companies are secretive about the details, so no link to corroborate this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T10:19:55.240" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T10:19:55.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28949" CreationDate="2016-05-04T10:27:38.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the start relay. I've seen other f-series owners complaining about this exact issue on this forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T10:27:38.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2016-05-04T11:37:19.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'd be better off trying to tap into the reverse switch on the shifter. This is the switch that turns the reverse lights on and off. You'll be running a lot less wire around and will wind up with a neater install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not work with higher-end cars with electronic everything, but for most cars (especially those older than five years or so) the switch should be easy to find and work with. On a higher-end car I'm sure you could tap into the CAN bus and watch for &quot;shift to reverse&quot; events, but that's a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T11:37:19.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28575" CreationDate="2016-05-04T11:49:40.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you are encountering is the limited resolution of your speed plus fluctuation plus slightly different approaches to calculate power. And finally, you have to think about the term &lt;em&gt;power at wheels&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What exactly is power at wheels?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, this is the tangential force applied by the wheels onto the street (i.e. the force that's pushing you forward) times speed. But this is not the power delivered by your motor nor the power that accelerates you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motor power vs. power at wheels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the power from your motor is already eaten up by friction in the transmission train and by aggregates like air-condition. It's even worse when accelerating: The motor has to spin up all the rotating parts like shafts, gear wheels and wheels, which also takes some power. It's as Zaid wrote, the car feels heavier to the motor than it is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So the power at the wheels is always lower than the power of the motor. But we can neglect it here, since you are not trying to calculate power at the wheels from motor power. The only point is that the power at the wheels has to spin up the undriven wheels, but let's neglect this, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friction and Drag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires experience some friction while rolling on the street, and with higher speed, drag becomes more important. I have no idea about friction, but the power loss due to drag can be calculated by this formula&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmpH3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmpH3.gif&quot; alt=&quot;P&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which takes density of air (1.2kg/m³), speed, drag coefficent (0.32 for your car) and cross section area (2.1m² for your car). To get an idea about this, here is a diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60Fzs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60Fzs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At about 100km/h, roughly 10kW of the power at the wheels is already consumed just to maintain speed. &lt;strong&gt;Only the excess of power at the wheels is put into acceleration!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inclines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on if you're driving down- or uphill, the car gains or has to invest energy, which can be calculated via &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHUAm.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHUAm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The formulas&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have given two formulas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5asf.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5asf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gives the &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; power needed to change kinetic energy within a given period. This does not reflect that power may vary over time. The &lt;em&gt;instantaneous&lt;/em&gt; power can be obtained by choosing shorter and shorter periods. I don't want to bother you with what Mathematicians call  &lt;em&gt;deviation&lt;/em&gt;, just the result is your second formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vo7do.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vo7do.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the averaging effect of the first formula can be beneficial if precision of your values is not so good. And since your data was taken once per second, it shouldn't make a big difference which formula you use. BUT the second formula needs acceleration, which is not available in your data and needs to be calculated from subsequent speed values. This also means that both formulas don't give the exactly same result (btw: there are better methods to calculate acceleration):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFC3r.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFC3r.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used both formulas for your data, and they give quite consistent results for the same source of speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Data&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK... Soooo much text, but no look at the data yet, so let's do it. &#xA;I've prepared two pictures, each showing speed, acceleration and power. The first showing the entire tour, zooms to time range 25-100s. Click to enlarge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5m4jFm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5m4jFm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNxO3m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNxO3m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happily, GPS and OBD speed are mostly consistent, but there's always a small difference as expected, and sometimes, your GPS signal was lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you'll also notice fluctuations, e.g. at 75s and 125s. These jumps up and down are more prominent in the calculated acceleration than the slow trend, which is the real acceleration. So it's clear that the calculated power is a total mess, though the real data seems to be inside there. (It doesn't matter which formula you use to calculate power, the result is the same.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Improvement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second image contains a violet curve, which is a polynom of 4th grade fittet into the OBD speed data to get a really smooth curve, which yet describes the speed well. The deviation of this curve fits really good into the acceleration data. The power data reveals that the acceleration of your car was caused by just about 12kW in the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this feasible? Your motor has about 64kW@6000RPM, if it's the stronger one. But at that time, it was running at about 3400RPM, and could deliver roughly 36kW. I just assumed that power increased linearly with RPM, which is more or less true. You can easily subtract 10-15% due to friction in the drive chain and 10kW due to drag. Subtract 30% of 12kW (=3.6kW) for inertia, as Zaid wrote, and you get 17kW. This is still more than 12kW, but air-condition, inclines and other effects could easily explain this. (Did you kick the pedal down to the floor?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you can do&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know how to fit functions into data (EXCEL doesn't really know), you could try different approaches to smooth your speed values. For example, make a new column and in each row calculate the average of the speed of this row, the row before and after. Maybe, repeat this several times or extend it to the last two to the next two rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Torque app&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have noticed that even the power calculated by Torque shows some fluctuation, though it seems to be a little smoother. Though I don't know how exactly Torque calculates power, it seems to apply some low level smoothing. Also keep in mind that your smartphone has many more data sources than just speed, it also has a  accelerometer and knows its GPS position. It's possible that Torque uses this data too. And finally, GPS data is usually only available once per seconds, the other data more often. My mobile can read out the other sensors 15 times per seconds. The resolution is also higher than what you have in your data. So it's no wonder its calculated power differs from yours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And: At 58:03.7 Torque claims a power of 60.88kW at 3349RPM, this is impossible for your motor and definitely shows that Torque doesn't give precise data, too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T11:49:40.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:01:17.287" Score="10" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of getting my 1986 Kawasaki GPX 750 back in running condition. The bike was sitting in the garage for two years. In this period it wasn't started even once. Two years ago the engine ran perfectly and I haven't tuned anything since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I did:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced all 4 sparkplugs with news ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the battery with a new one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the symptoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't start the engine if the choke is not fully on. When I start the engine the revs jump to 2000 rpm and engine stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't make the engine run more then a minute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I try to turn the gas bar engine also stops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After I try starting bike for some time gas starts leaking trough gas drain hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be the issue ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17121" LastEditorUserId="14742" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T18:24:29.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T01:51:18.027" Title="Can't start a Kawasaki GPX 750" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|fuel-system|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29321" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:13:46.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of tests you can do to help determine what is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Head gasket:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Compression test.  minimum 120 psi, should all be within ~10%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oil and coolant are mixed.  Check oil and coolant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Exhaust smells like coolant or burning oil.  Might smoke excessively&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bubbling in the radiator while running.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check plugs for oil/coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling System:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First, fix all leaks.  it will never be right if there is a visible leak&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radiator pressure test to determine if the system can hold pressure.  If not, should help to point out the leak.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternately, let the engine get hot and feel the upper radiator hose, it should be stiff with pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cold spots on the radiator - the 'stop leak' could had caused a clog&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stuck thermostat - heat, radiator hoses cold&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bad water pump - no heat, radiator hoses cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a clogged rad, or stuck thermostat, running the heat full blast should help keep the engine cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are a few things I missed, but that should give you a good idea.  At least look into it a bit before you trash it.  No sense buying a new car/engine if you can fix what you have for cheaper/less work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:13:46.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:29:07.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to read out the ECM/ECU for the trouble codes from the OBD interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ABS light will go on for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defective ABS module&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defective ABS sensor on a wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low battery power(this will cause the weirdest error codes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pad sensors defective or worn brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring harness problem. Corroded plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read error(probably fixable by resetting the fault codes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17116" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:29:07.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:31:49.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also note that some vehicles use PWM (pulse width modulation) to maintain the same brightness of lights when the engine is running (14.2v) as when it is not (12v)&#xA;BMW is one I know from the top of my head that does this. Meaning that your circuit needs to be able to handle a PWM signal (it will be at roughly 85% duty cycle, so normally DC DC converters can cope with the signal, but be aware that if you connect for instance a 12v camera to your reverse lights, there is a chance you will get a distorted image or no image at all.&#xA;Safest, as suggested, is to tap into the reverse switch as a signal to a relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17122" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:31:49.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29330" CreationDate="2016-05-04T13:48:16.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your carb(s) are plugged and need cleaned. If the fuel in the carbs has ethanol in it, the carbs are going to be caked with crap. The floats could be ruined. There are a lot of things going on. Getting the carbs rebuilt or at the &lt;em&gt;very least&lt;/em&gt; cleaned up, is going to be a must. All of the symptoms you saying are pointing to carb issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T13:48:16.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:26:36.007" Score="4" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra. Its inside temp is reading 58 degrees when it is actually 71 degrees outside. What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I just changed the thermostat today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17124" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T16:56:43.217" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:56:43.217" Title="Inside temperature reading 13 degrees lower than actual outside temperature - what could be the problem?" Tags="|nissan|temperature|sentra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29335" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:12:05.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm. Either temp sender calibration is off a little bit or it's colder inside the car than it is outside the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember when you are in Defrost or Defog modes on your Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning (HVAC) the Air Conditioning is turned on automatically to help remove water vapor from the air, and keep the Windows clear. This will cool the car's interior too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have to ask. I didn't know the Sentra included an inside temperature read out. I believe the automatic HVAC option lets you set your desired inside temperature to set your comfort levels. Is that what you are talking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for you to take a photo of the display inside you car and then edit your question to add a link to the image?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T15:26:11.500" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:26:11.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29339" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:45:48.470" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The CEL (check-engine light) is on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel cap is subsequently replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel tank is half full.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it advantageous to fill the tank to the top to speed up the time it will take the CEL to go off? (we assume here that the fuel cap is the culprit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether the answer to (1) is yes/no, after how many miles does the CEL typically go off? Or does the air vaccuum mechanism on the fuel tank operate every so many minutes, and so it's the driving time, not distance, that matters?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the CEL is no longer on, does the mechanic disadvantage the vehicle on the bi-annual report? In other words, is one better off reading the old codes with an OBDII reader and clearing them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:17:26.130" Title="Does a full fuel tank speed up the CEL turning off after changing the fuel cap?" Tags="|cel|fuel-cap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41201" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:11:02.067" Score="14" ViewCount="35384" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is a variation on these two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4340/17126&quot;&gt;Engine braking with an automatic transmission&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/29291/17126&quot;&gt;What are the “1” and “2” or “L” gears used for on an automatic?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an automatic transmission 2012 Mazda 3 after driving a manual for a number of years. As was my habit with the manual, rather than braking on a highway off-ramp, I downshift all the way to 1 to use engine braking (applying brakes right at the end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When downshifting from 2 to 1 around 30 - 40 km/h the car has a jerk of deceleration and revs to about 4k rpm. I assume this is because a large amount of momentum is transferred through the transmission to the engine block while the clutch is engaging. Is this putting strain or wear on the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I saving wear-and-tear on my brakes at the cost of an eventual transmission replacement?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T01:59:49.667" Title="Does engine braking an automatic wear out the transmission?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|braking|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29337" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:17:26.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is know way to know how the software was programmed for any given car, from that I know most systems will not do a fuel tank integrity vacuum check when the tank is either past 3/4 or below 1/4, so filling the tank will extend the time before it re-runs the test and turns off the CEL if the test passes. The test will only run when the tank is between 1/4 and 3/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:17:26.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29330" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:43:33.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your carbs are clogged with varnish and bad gas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remnants of gas that has evaporated are a gummy hard varnish inside of your carburetors.  You have a bit of work to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; disassemble the carburetors and thoroughly clean all of the nooks, crannies, jets, fuel galley's and air galley's in order to get your bike back in working order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire bank of 4 carbs requires removal and cleaning.  You can dunk the entire set in a 'bath' of solvent to eat away the dried up gas or 'varnish' and to soften it up.  Afterword you will need to take carb cleaner and 'blow out' all of the fuel galley's.  Additionally you will need to unplug your jets with a small wire and/or compressed air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This varnish is preventing fuel from getting into your motor.  You will need to clean the entire fuel system, especially the gas tank.  You may have some rust in your gas tank as well.  The petcock is probably clogged and may need a rebuild kit for it to replace the plastic screen.  You will need to determine that upon disassembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some similar questions and answers that may assist you in your endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a carburetor removal process on a similar bike. It applies to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/244/how-do-you-get-the-carburetors-out-of-a-1983-kawasaki-kz1000-p&quot;&gt;How do you get the carburetors out of a 1983 Kawasaki KZ1000 P?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the process to clean a set of carbs with bad gas in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1791/aprillia-pegaso-650-wont-start-after-cleaning-carbs-what-might-be-wrong/26327#26327&quot;&gt;Aprillia Pegaso 650 won&amp;#39;t start after cleaning carbs, what might be wrong?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are troubleshooting the carbs after you clean them, you may need to identify issues to get the bike to where it is.  Here is a post related to troubleshooting rich and lean conditions with your carburetor set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle/23937#23937&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you are all done and the bike is running somewhat normal, you will need to balance your carburetors as the final step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3676/motorcycle-four-body-carburetor-synchronization-balancing/24312#24312&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Four Body Carburetor Synchronization Balancing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any further questions about the issues you are experience please ask follow ups!  Best of luck to you, you'll get it running again.  Keep the battery on a trickle charger as you are troubleshooting so you don't take it all the way down as you are attempting to get it running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:19:17.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29338" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:51:11.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, yes. Automatics don't have a clutch per se, but you're causing additional wear and tear on the internals. Basically you're reversing the power flow -- instead of the engine driving the wheels, you're driving the engine with the wheels. Obviously this occurs normally when you decelerate, but by downshifting you're increasing the amount of force that normally goes through the transmission in that way. There's no way to accurately predict how much additional wear you're putting on your drivetrain, but doesn't it make more sense to put the wear on an easily-accessible part that's designed to be replaced than on an expensive one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:51:11.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29346" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:03:50.223" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been working on writing software for some very small tracking devices. I decided to take on an electronics engineer and start building some boards myself using a GPS/GPRS module. I ended up making a USB tracking device that streams the users' location back to our servers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now want to take this a step further and look at interfacing my electronics project with the car so that I can obtain more information, such as speed, RPM, throttle position etc. I'm currently conducting some basic research and am reading a lot about interfacing with the vehicle's OBD. This seems sensible as there is a lot of data available here and would allow for a simple quick installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to drive a Peugeot 206 which had an insurance telematics unit to reduce the monthly payments. Fortunately I still have the car and just nipped out to see if this is where the installed unit was taking information from. Initially, to my surprise, I couldn't see anything plugged into the OBD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand why the telematics box my insurance company installed did not use the OBD. Is it because the OBD is too easy to access and can be tampered with? Or more importantly, is there a better interface within the car dashboard that I could use with my electronics project? I'm asking this question from a commercial perspective so I can understand the best option for building a telematics device and then selling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make it clear, I have no interest in touching or tampering with the insurance telematics unit, I would just like to know for the sake of my electronics project the best place in the car to interface with in order for my device to read more data about the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17129" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:50:10.373" Title="Interface tracking device with OBD II (or alternative sources of data)" Tags="|obd-ii|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11451" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:30:11.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three different tests you can do to check your charging system and battery (there are others, but I'll just talk about the big three):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Voltage with engine off&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter, select volts-dc on the selector switch, then put the red lead to the positive and black to the negative. For a fully charged battery the reading should be in the 12.5-13.1vdc. If it is much lower than this, the battery is most likely bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Voltage with engine running&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a multimeter, select volts-dc on the selector switch, then put the red lead to the positive and the black to the negative. The reading should be around 14.1-14.5vdc. If it is lower than this, observe what the voltage reads over time. If the voltage drops a little at a time and doesn't regain anything, the alternator is not charging and will need to be replaced. If the reading is over 15vdc (even up into the 16vdc range) the alternator is overcharging. Take it into the parts store and have them bench test it to see what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cranking Amps (CA) and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) testing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because the voltage looks good, doesn't mean there isn't something amis with the battery. One other test you can do is to test the CA and CCA the battery should be rated at. Using a tester like this SOLAR BA5 Cold Cranking Amps Electronic Battery Tester, you can tell what's going on inside the battery if you know what it's rated at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oOAtd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oOAtd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking on the battery labeling should tell you what the CA/CCA are for the battery. Plug the battery tester with red on positive, black on negative. Input which test you want to perform (CA or CCA), then input the rated amperage for the test you've chosen. Click the test button and it will spit out what the actual amount of CA/CCA the battery has. If there is a large difference between what it's rated and what the actual is, the battery will need replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:30:11.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15796" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:37:22.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to post the OP's answer to get this closed out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I just got a new battery a few months ago took the jeep up to napa they tested it n its a bad alternator.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:37:22.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29342" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:50:10.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OBD-II port is going to be the best place to interface with the vehicle. This is where you'd pull the information you are talking about. Your Telematics unit is probably just tying in directly to the wiring instead of the port to leave it open for smog testing or other maintenance testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it going to be a problem if we start occupying the OBD port? Take taxis for example. If we want to install our unit into a small fleet of 10 taxis, do you think there are any potential hiccups when it comes to having them installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No issues. It would just have to be unplugged before you could use the diagnostic port for troubleshooting the vehicle if a problem arises. The OBD-II ports are used all the time for insurance plug-ins (like from Progressive). I'm quite surprised the Telematics one isn't the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:50:10.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22006" CreationDate="2016-05-04T19:57:30.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the OP's &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22006/engine-noise-rattle-when-clutch-is-fully-pressed-bmw-320d-e46-manual#comment44630_22006&quot;&gt;last comment&lt;/a&gt;, the rattle was due to a broken crankshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will add one thing though. When I was a kid, my father had a '91 Mitsubishi Pajero that suddenly had its crankshaft snap in two. He was able to drive it to the dealership with a rattling noise that was present regardless of clutch position or RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the OP's case, I am quite frankly surprised that the rattling noise was present only with the clutch pressed in. Not saying that it isn't possible, just unusual that the OP was able to drive &quot;normally&quot; otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T19:57:30.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T20:50:26.200" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tmech 50QT-2 scooter (Chinese type). The scooter revs when using the electronic start button and or the kick start but it will not actually start. just bought a new battery for it and the problem is still there. I am by no means a mechanic but I don't have the money to take it to a shop. If anyone has any ideas please let me know thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S it has gas and I bought it brand new in 2013&#xA;Also a few times it did turn over but then a few seconds later it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17133" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T23:00:23.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T23:00:23.780" Title="Tmec 50QT-2 scooter wont start" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|scooter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:12:18.530" Score="5" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is, have ever heard of it making engine oil gel, or turn sludgy if you can call that a word? I haven't, but 05 Chevy Equinox I'm servicing had this happen. Not sure if it started before or after the use of sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17134" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T21:27:13.160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:04:45.577" Title="Engine oil sludge" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29354" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:41:14.653" Score="2" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I apply the brakes at high speeds, not lightly but not enough for them to lock up, my tires squeal.&#xA;I believe the sound is coming from the tires and not the brakes at all.&#xA;One thing to note is the tires age is almost over and should be changed soon. Could worn out tires cause that squealing? Also I just did an alignment job on my car but I don't particularly remember it being apparent by the the alignment job directly after. Also my tires have been squealing when taking turns with the steering wheel fully locked at speed not sure if related but has been doing that for a long time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:05:37.507" Title="Tires squealing when braking" Tags="|tires|alignment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29349" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:44:12.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually sludge and gelling is caused by infrequent oil changes or no changes at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a few motor jobs that had oil gelling and assumed it was the original oil that came in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I call most Oil additives &quot;mechanic in a can&quot;, and most do more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular oil changes prevent sludging and gelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T21:44:12.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:48:26.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally ran the smart key for my '09 Jaguar XF supercharged sedan through the washing machine once. It was submerged in water for about 10 minutes until I found it. I was able to fix it by opening the shell and removing all the contents. A ran a blow dryer over all the pieces until they were completely dry (at least they appeared to be) before putting them back together, and it worked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17135" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T23:09:24.063" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:09:24.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29350" CreationDate="2016-05-04T21:49:03.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, tire squealing under high brake loads is usually worn out tires, but may also have something to do with the tire compound, tire inflation and road temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T23:05:37.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:05:37.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29046" CreationDate="2016-05-04T22:25:57.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You might have a tear in your CV carburetor diaphragm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the tops of your carburetors there is a cover with 4 screws that gives access to your CV diaphragm and slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CV (constant velocity) carbs adjust for barometric pressure automatically.  The difference in pressure from your intake tract and the atmosphere raises and lowers you slide that has the jet needle in it which meters fuel from you main jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An unmetered air issue can cause all of the symptoms you are describing and if you have inspected and tested all of the other areas of the carb between the throttle butterfly and the head perhaps this is the area that is giving you issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tear in the diaphragm would cause what you are illiterating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;here is an image of a slide, jet needle and diaphragm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNHZd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNHZd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inspect the Diaphragm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull on it a bit, put your finger behind an area and stretch it across you other finger and look for holes and cracks.  Also, ensure that when you put it in the carb you put the ring around the outer edge back in it's groove properly in the top of the carb body.  It's very easy to pinch it and damage in when you put the tops back on it.  You will want to press the cover on and feel that the diaphragm is proper inside the carb body groove before you screw it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T08:09:46.907" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T08:09:46.907" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:19:44.680" Score="8" ViewCount="5254" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Tacoma loses about 3.5 qt of oil out of 5 every about 1500 mi. I know it's low because the engine starts periodically rattling, I don't know which part but it's 100% correlated to the low oil level. I know the measure because I drained the existing oil in a bucket to see how much was gone. When I add oil, the rattling stops. The remaining oil didn't look particularly dirty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rG0bb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rG0bb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the second time this has happened since I replaced my head gaskets last September so I'm worried if I didn't seal it right (as there might have been minor warpage on one of the V6 deck sides but very minimal just outside the factory advised threshold, which I guess is conservative) so I may be leaking oil into one or more combustion chambers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I thought it may be a leaky oil pan gasket so I replaced it (without much analysis because it was easy and the part was cheap). But it happened again. What I'm hoping is that the oil pan may be warped so it still leaks even with the new gasket. Because, in both cases, the amount of oil that was left corresponded roughly to the size of the oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check around the engine and everything looks pristine, no visible leaks on around the timing chain cover or cylinder head covers. Also no signs of leakage around the oil pan but then again it may have dried after it leaked down to where the joint is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the above symptoms and metrics, should I start suspecting the I'm losing it due to a cylinder leak and should I perform a cylinder leak down test, for which I have all the tools (though have never done before)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RELATED:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29202/how-to-test-if-oil-is-leaking-into-combustion-chambers&quot;&gt;How to test if oil is leaking into combustion chambers?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 1: Every single spark plug looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzh2i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzh2i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE 2: I just did cylind er leak down tests on all 6. Pumped the left gauge to 90 psi on each cylinder, before making sure it was in TDC. The right one was between 75 and 80 psi on 5/6 and only one cylinder wouldn't go past about 65 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these test results indicate a problem? Should the right gauge always be the same as the left one on every cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T02:51:27.480" Title="Cylinder leak down test to detect oil leakage" Tags="|toyota|oil-leak|tacoma|cylinder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29338" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:40:15.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should leave the downshifting to the transmission. Sounds like you're doing it wrong anyway. The abrupt &quot;jerk&quot; that you speak of means you're going Too Fast for the gear you've selected. Of course if you're towing a heavily loaded trailer, you could manually downshift to assist the cars brakes to avoid the possibility of overheating them. But the engine revving to 4k on the 2-1 downshift is really being abusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are clutches in an automatic transmission, but for this discussion, you have no direct control over their operation, and should realize instead, that you're no doubt over-revving your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;1&quot;-&quot;2&quot; &amp;amp; &quot;L&quot; mean that you're selecting that gear manually, and the transmission will only shift automatically between &quot;1&quot; and &quot;2&quot; if you select &quot;2&quot; on start-up. &quot;L&quot; means Lo/Low gear and there won't be an upshift at all. Same is true when you select&quot;1&quot;. The transmission will remain in &quot;1&quot; or &quot;Lo&quot;. This manual selection is useful for towing at low speed for short distances, and can help when braking on super slippery surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are always exceptions. A rear wheel drive vehicle will realize theoretically, an advantage when braking on ICE over a front wheel drive vehicle because the proportioning valve sends as much as 67%-70% of the braking force to the front wheels anyway. Yet, a too high Idle speed will have the rear wheels pushing while the fronts are forced to lock-up in their effort to stop the car. A.B.S. does NOT stay with you until you come to a complete stop. On top of all this, braking forces applied to each front (or rear) wheel are not guaranteed to be equal, so from a moderate speed on ICE , engine braking can conceivably help, but you MUST have a good &quot;seat of the pants&quot; feel for what's going on under you as conditions vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:40:15.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:41:47.817" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can do a leak down test but look at your spark plugs first&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your burning oil you will see it on your spark plugs.  They will be black and have buildup on them.  If you find one or two that look that way and all the others are very light in color to tan then you probably have oil getting into the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some nice responses regarding performing a leak down test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26384/what-is-a-leak-down-tester-and-what-can-i-do-with-it&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do a compression test that's a little faster and may just tell you that one cylinder is considerably lower on compression than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have to remove the head, take it down to a local machine shop and have them make it flat while removing as little material as possible.  If the head was torqued unevenly or was overheated prior to your ownership it could be slightly warped and creating  recurring head gasket failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your definitely thinking along the right line, I would just check your spark plugs first.  Physical inspection yields good data.  Have a look at them for your first run on data collection then move onto harder things to do to gather more data to come up with a conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:41:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29261" CreationDate="2016-05-04T23:56:26.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can spend time identifying which cylinder is bad but in the end you need to replace both head gaskets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both head gaskets aren't failing the other one will fail soon. You may not know it yet but you don't want to replace just the single head gasket.  You want to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in your position I'd just order two new head gaskets and get on with it but I've worked on a ton of these things so I have a different outlook on getting from point A to point B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identifying the bad head gasket&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could do a leak down test to identify the bad cylinder(s).   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could perform a compression test to see what cylinders have poor compression and which do not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could turn the engine over a few times with the starter and pull out your spark plugs to see which ones are wet and which are dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of links that may be helpful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26384/what-is-a-leak-down-tester-and-what-can-i-do-with-it&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22558/how-many-times-to-crank-during-a-compression-test&quot;&gt;How Many Times to Crank During a Compression Test&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly you have a bad head gasket if you have coolant coming out of your exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO consider replacing both head gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a factory manual for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spec&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;184 +- 28 PSI with a maximum difference between any two cylinders of 57 PSI.  This from the Honda factory shop manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T23:56:26.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5280" CreationDate="2016-05-05T00:20:14.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shifting into neutral CANNOT, and DOES NOT allow for more controllable nor more efficient braking.&#xA;Torque converters &quot;Lock-Up&quot; when the car is being Driven by the engine. NOT upon deceleration. When the brake pedal is depressed enough to cause the &quot;Brake-Lights&quot; to  illuminate, the torque converter is taken OUT of the equation.&#xA;Also, if operating properly, the torque converter will, in most applications, ONLY &quot;Lock-Up&quot; when the transmission is in Top Gear, and you are no longer accelerating, or barely accelerating when your vehicle speed is around 38-42 mph, and the reduced &quot;Load&quot; on the drivetrain, determined by measuring (engine vacuum, throttle position, current gear, and vehicle speed), then the &quot;Lock-up&quot; occurs. If you continue accelerating moderately to hard, you may find that you're up to 125 mph or so, and the torque converter still will not have &quot;Locked-Up&quot;.&#xA;So.....having to make an emergency stop from this speed, you'd be wise to leave the shifter completely alone. Engine braking will automatically take place and greatly improve your stability during the stopping process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Locking-up&quot; of the torque converter is equivalent to having a taller Top Gear, or another speed. (I won't use the term &quot;Overdrive&quot; because there&quot;s a too universal mis-understanding as to just what overdrive actually is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, there's exceptions.. My old van was equipped with a 4 spd automatic, but the torque converter would frequently &quot;Lock-up&quot; while in 3rd. gear causing the engine to lug. I had the wrong size tires on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T00:20:14.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T00:27:47.317" Score="2" ViewCount="6578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combustion from fuel and air is used to push a piston down. When they combustion it creates a lot of force, my question is how much force is needed to push the piston all the way down when the vehicle is turned on and moving in many different surfaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much force will then be needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it relatively easy to push down or do it require a great deal of force?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16286" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T00:34:56.040" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T23:35:53.920" Title="How much force is needed to push a piston down?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|piston|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2016-05-05T13:15:24.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2016-05-05T01:16:25.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if you are having an issue with oil bypass, as in going through the breather/PCV and ending up getting burned through the intake. A simple catch can would prove this out for you. This happens quite a bit and is easily solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leakdown test will not tell you anything about your oil loss. Its not what a leakdown test if for (check the link in the @DucatiKiller answer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the oil has to be going somewhere. I'll guarantee you if it was leaking in the amount you're talking about, you'd see puddles and/or oil on the engine itself where its leaking. That's a significant amount of oil to be leaking or for the engine to be swallowing, for that matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't noticing either puddles or smoke from the engine bay (not tail pipe), you aren't leaking it. Check the inside of the tail pipe(s) for oily soot. That may be an indication. It may be smoking from the tail pipe, but you may not notice it (people behind you while you are driving probably would though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T00:39:13.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T00:39:13.940" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:49:27.980" Score="2" ViewCount="1257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting these kind of noise &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QhmK7oDX1tE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/QhmK7oDX1tE&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car details&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Year : 2010&#xA;Model : Lexus hs250h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its happening when I switch AC/Fan on and it last for 30 sec and then goes away. of course it also go away if I switch off the AC/Fan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17138" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T05:38:03.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:38:03.890" Title="Lexus HS 250h car; a/c noise from inside the car" Tags="|ac|noise|car|fan|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:54:15.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After driving, place your hand on your rims. If any of them feel hot to the touch then you most likely have a seized brake cylinder or caliper. Once you have your rim off, look at the brake drum or rotor and look for discoloration other than the rusty color. If it looks almost purple like where the brake shoes or pads come into contact, then you have had some serious heat there from the seized caliper/brake cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it so bad that pouring water on the rim causes it to sizzle from the intense heat. The drum or rotor will actually glow red while you're driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17143" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T03:19:40.060" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T03:19:40.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2016-05-05T03:52:23.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air conditioning cooling is calculated on the volume of air that needs cooling-A car interior is roughly about the size of an apartment bathroom . Most cars are about 1ton (12000Btu). SUV can range upwards of 20000 to 40000 Btu (1.5-3.0 ton). If you were have a 5 ton unit in your vehicle as one person claimed..passengers would have frostbite or be extremely cold as they scraped the frost of the inside of the vehicle. A 5 ton compressor would be used in heat pump applications where the area to be cooled is the size of a 2 story house. Automotive compressors don't run continuously like they did in the old days. As a matter of fact in cars they cycle on and off depending on the system pressure. They even cycle on/off even in the winter to keep the system pressurized, lubricated and sealed.In the old days compressors wouldn't be operated  in winter and a result the refrigerant would pool at the lowest point in the system the condenser coils, the seals would dry out and admit water vapor into system. As water vapor entered the system it would react with the refrigerant turning it acidic destroying the system as a result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic differences between refrigerators and air conditioning is duty cycle, type of compressors used, as well as refrigerant used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T05:00:25.833" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:00:25.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29363" CreationDate="2016-05-05T04:24:46.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a plenum (ventilation duct) fan bearing is slowly going bad based on the sound from underneath and behind the glove box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T04:24:46.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29349" CreationDate="2016-05-05T05:04:45.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common cause of engine sludge is failure of, or lack of a PCV heater. Shown in the picture is the PCV crankcase breather hose. The hose attached to valve cover. Notice the small black tube below the breather hose, blue arrow, in a U shape. Notice also that it is attached to the breahter tube. This tube carries engine coolant. It purpose is to heat the incoming air before it gets into the crankcase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the incoming air is needed because it helps to evaporate water in the crankcase. Water that remains in the crankcase forms acids that then react with oil to form thick gel like deposits. These acids are the cause of sludging that is caused by excessively long oil change intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines used for short trips are particularly prone to sludging because of the engine does not get hot enough to evaporate the water in the crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imhZT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imhZT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PCV heater&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:04:45.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13483" CreationDate="2016-05-05T05:25:14.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternator charges the battery at a regulated 5 A. It charges at a much lower rate than specified on the batteries usually 1/10 of their capacity. This is because charging at full pin would overheat the battery, generate high levels of hydrogen gas and dramatically reduce the longevity of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;61 A/h battery at 5A charge rate would fully charge from dead in 12.2 hours. The alternator is capable of generating 1.96 KW. If it did all day both the alternator and regulator would probably self destruct.&#xA;The battery only purpose is to start the car and run accessories when the engine is not running. Once started the alternator runs the whole show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="54721" LastEditDate="2021-10-15T15:37:56.190" LastActivityDate="2021-10-15T15:37:56.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2016-05-05T05:36:06.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a &lt;em&gt;desired&lt;/em&gt; answer, but with no leaks (to ground or into coolant) it's possible that your engine is just using/burning what some manufacturers would consider a &lt;em&gt;normal amount of oil&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;How much is too much?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Audi, BMW, and Subaru stick firmly to the statement that oil consumption is a normal part of a car’s operation. Subaru considers &lt;strong&gt;a quart burned every &lt;em&gt;1,000 to 1,200 miles&lt;/em&gt; to be acceptable&lt;/strong&gt;. Certain Audi and BMW cars’ standards state that &lt;strong&gt;a quart burned every &lt;em&gt;600 to 700 miles&lt;/em&gt; is reasonable&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a driver has to add a quart of oil once per month, that can mean adding up to 7 to 9 quarts of oil between oil changes. Those costs due to excessive oil consumption can add up because automakers more frequently require synthetic oils that can cost upwards of $9 per quart—in addition to the expense of the routine oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2015/07/02/consumer-reports-finds-new-cars-burn-too-much-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Consumer Reports &quot;Excessive oil consumption isn't normal - Automakers say adding oil between scheduled changes is acceptable. It's not.&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Published: June 30, 2015 06:00 AM&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Also interesting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2015/07/02/consumer-reports-finds-new-cars-burn-too-much-oil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;news video here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's for new engines, yours is about 9 years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cylinder leak down test would be a good idea, especially if you've already got all the stuff to do one, and should confirm some causes of oil consumption. A quick search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=how+to+stop+engine+oil+consumption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to stop engine oil consumption&lt;/a&gt; found some advice from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_consumption.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_consumption.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;CAUSES OF HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oil consumption depends primarily on two things: &lt;strong&gt;the valve guides and piston rings&lt;/strong&gt;. If the valve guides are worn, or if there's too much clearance between the valve stems and guides, or if the valve guide seals are worn, cracked, missing, broken or improperly installed, the engine will suck oil down the guides and into the cylinders. The engine may still have good compression, but will use a lot of oil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBhrI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBhrI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine valve deposits&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Heavy carbon deposits on the valves are caused by worn valve guides and seals.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Worn valve guides can usually be restored a number of different ways. One popular method machine shops use is to ream out the guides and install thin bronze or cast iron guide liners. Knurling is another procedure that can reduce valve guide clearances. With aluminum heads, the original guides can be driven out and replaced with new ones. With cast iron heads, the guides can be reamed out to accept new valves with oversized stems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the oil burning is due to &lt;strong&gt;worn or broken rings, or wear in the cylinders&lt;/strong&gt;, the engine will have low compression. The only cure here is to bore or hone the cylinders and replace the worn or broken piston rings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Correct oil?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;, are you using the correct (viscosity) oil? There may be a thicker &quot;summer&quot; oil you could be using, or a &quot;High Mileage&quot; oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just trying a slightly thicker oil, even if it's not mentioned in the owner's manual (that &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be a &lt;strong&gt;bad idea&lt;/strong&gt;, that &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have worked better with much older engines). (These are mentioned in the above &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_consumption.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Engine Oil Consumption&quot;&lt;/a&gt; linked page too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably a wall full of oil additives in an auto parts store to try too (most of which may just &quot;thicken up&quot; the oil anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;please&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; check your oil more often! Leaving just 1.5 quarts in a 5 quart engine sounds like it could be doing damage, that's probably what the &quot;rattling&quot; you're hearing actually is. The oil dipstick should indicate when it's about 1 quart low, &lt;em&gt;use it&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T05:57:48.823" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:57:48.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13172" CreationDate="2016-05-05T05:55:27.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your battery has the ability to add water to it. Do it &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the battery has been charged overnight. &lt;strong&gt;Never add water to a dead battery prior to charging&lt;/strong&gt;. When a battery charges the plates thicken and as a result the water level rises in the cell. Filling a dead battery results in leaking electrolyte (water and acid mixture) which would have to neutralized. Adding water to batteries is sometimes needed in hot climates due to evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very carefully in doing so, use protective equipment  -safety glasses and mask. Sulfuric Acid fumes attack the moist mucous membranes in the eyes, mouth, lungs, and digestive tract causing severe irritation potentially resulting in hospitalization or death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When manufactures initially fill the  batteries with electrolyte they start with adding the acid first then very slowly add the water. This is done this due to an thermochemical reaction. The water helps absorb the heat from the reaction. It is also mixed in precise proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If water is put in first then the acid, a very violent and potentially explosive reaction occurs. Translation: Don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T05:55:27.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T06:16:27.620" Score="3" ViewCount="5451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I most likely have a messed up front differential on my 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I can just take my drive shaft off and run it on RWD only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just remove the universal joint pin and retain the rest inside the front diff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17146" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T07:04:22.597" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T03:05:50.963" Title="2003 Dodge Durango - Can I take the front drive shaft off and drive the vehicle?" Tags="|dodge|drivetrain|4wd|differential|durango|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29361" CreationDate="2016-05-05T06:43:49.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I apologize if my question wasn't as technical as you want. I would&#xA;  like to add I have no knowledge of cars and I'm just learning. I&#xA;  thought it was common sense to ask questions if you didn't know&#xA;  something. I am sure at one point you had no knowledge either. Its not&#xA;  a hard understand that no one knows anything until they sit down and&#xA;  learn. So do you understand? Good ;) – LostPecti&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No problem. I'm all for it. But the question really isn't that simple. Its not just a simple push, its a push over a particular time, When your piston is at perfect top dead center or at perfect bottom center, no amount of pushing move the piston. You could add tons of force, but the piston just won't move. To begin to understand the details, and the why questions, you will have to invest some time in your own education starting at the basics. I didn't know a thing about cars till I started reading a Haynes type service manuals and car magazines. 3 years later I was an automotive engineer in Detroit. I get it. I really do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all is not lost. There are tools available to help you understand some of this stuff better. I'd start at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.khanacademy.org/science/physics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kahn Academy&lt;/a&gt;, and sign up for the physics classes. The Kahn Academy classes are totally free.  You'll want &quot;Work and Energy&quot;, &quot;Thermodynamics&quot;, &quot;Impacts and Linear Momentum&quot;, &quot;Newtons laws of motion&quot; and &quot;Moments / torque&quot; That should get you the ability to accurately answer your own question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm saying here, is its not really productive to attempt to summarize a whole lot of information on how something works in a simple internet forum question. There is no right answer to your question in the way its asked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing to remember is that the &quot;push&quot; isn't really a simple push.  Its a controlled chemical reaction (explosion) inside a chamber timed to go off with maximum force at a particular time in the crankshaft rotation cycle. And that force isn't just felt at a single piston position.  It varies as the crankshaft turns. The explosion START is controlled via spark plug timing. Fuel / air mix and exhaust timing is based on the camshaft which opens and closes valves.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to accurately answer your question. If you want to know more, folks here will happily guide you in your education.  I'm certainly available (my email is available via a simple click on my ID)   Not trying to make you feel bad.  Again, no offense is intended.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to know the answer to your question (and how to make your car go faster :^) you will have to invest a bit of time in your own education on the topic.  I'm a strong believer in making your hobby your career.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a diagram that showed gasoline engine pressure vs. crank rotation angle.  I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=https://docslide.net/google-reader?url=c742a2a8db85b4e835b90f67b5249b8d166580dce7b157caf24aa3c4dd5e68203d41d7b391e6f962ca7d521384d9ac38e9383a56310aae18804004d6f6004d80YiTGEkXytI2Lbm+GG6hsP4vdx2P8UIM0TKJjDyqte0Ugo0/5iScCluoIWK6A/KS9TcF8GcPpsaWt04KDH4b28kt/eWLHf5HlI8UdTXwUw2M=&amp;amp;embedded=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;powerpoint presentation&lt;/a&gt;.  I thought it pretty sound.  The question about pressure to push a piston down is only part of the conversation.  Don't forget you have to use that push to get the piston to make one more spin so it will exhaust the burnt air/fuel out of the cylinder.  The pressure chart is on slide #18, and you can see that the max PRESSURE is around 20 degrees after Top Dead Center (TDC). In that chart the ignition spark starts before TDC (funny I knew that but never really thought about it till today...) It takes a bit of time for the air/fuel/spark explosion to propagate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the force on the piston (at a particular engine speed and load) you'd have to integrate the pressure from TDC to Bottom Dead Center AND account for the crankshaft angle (via sine/cosine relationship) in your integral.  Its not a simple problem...   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, link to powerpoint presentation &lt;code&gt;Internal Combustion Engines, Valve Timing Diagrams, Ujjwal K. Saha, Phd&lt;/code&gt;, updated. Ouch.  Apparently that link has a short lived authentication token attached to it. Do a search look for the paper &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Internal%20Combustion%20Engines%2C%20Valve%20Timing%20Diagrams%2C%20Ujjwal%20K.%20Saha%2C%20Phd&amp;amp;oq=Internal%20Combustion%20Engines%2C%20Valve%20Timing%20Diagrams%2C%20Ujjwal%20K.%20Saha%2C%20Phd&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.479175j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2019-04-27T23:35:53.920" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T23:35:53.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5566" CreationDate="2016-05-05T07:23:08.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced my timing belt, which is the serpentine belt, at 80k miles. That's all you need to do, the timing chain is designed to last the life of your vehicle as long as you keep up with your routine tune up. The only time I've ever come across a tundra 5.7 that needed a new chain, was when someone neglected oil changes for 2yrs, and drove it until the oil caked up and sludge had built up so bad, which snapped the cam chain, but even then the timing chain was still in tact.  Considering this is a rare cases of neglect, you shouldn't have to worry about your timing chain if you keep up with routine maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T07:23:08.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T09:02:18.533" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Jazz is in for 195,000 km service, Bosch service centre contacted me and said that my &lt;em&gt;Control Arm Bushings&lt;/em&gt; are worn, but they need to replace the entire control arm as the bushings are not available for my Jazz. Can that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Stefan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17149" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T09:09:12.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:22:55.313" Title="Honda Jazz 2007 1.4 Dsi CVT" Tags="|honda|suspension|bushing|jazz|control-arm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29384" CreationDate="2016-05-05T10:13:07.963" Score="8" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realise this is a strange looking question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in a country where many local mechanics unfortunately have a bad reputation for creating small problems while fixing other problems in order to get repeat custom. There's no real system of regulation, accreditation or formal training here. I'm pretty sure I had this problem with one garage, who I no longer use, and I'm currently working with a new mechanic who's prepared to come out to me rather than taking a car to a garage, which reduces the risks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29219/main-engine-not-firing-after-non-engine-related-fixes-replacing-fuses-and-trans&quot;&gt;a strange problem&lt;/a&gt; where about an hour after he left, having done a rudimentary fix on a transmission fluid pan leak, the car stopped starting (but did run fine 10 minutes after he left). I suspect one part of the problem might be small amounts of oil I've found in the spark plug wells, something I've not seen in this car before. This could be from an innocent small leak, or, it's the sort of thing a rogue could do quietly when I wasn't looking. He sounded less than surprised when I mentioned the problem to him just now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose someone unscrupulous did pour small amounts of oil into spark plug wells. Is this something that would typically cause car-non-starting problems &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;, or might it in stop the spark plugs operating only after a certain amount of time (e.g. for the oil to seep in), or perhaps only after the engine has run a few times (e.g. needing the motion of the engine to foul the spark plug gap)? Or maybe I'm wrong in thinking that oil in the spark plug wells is something that could stop an engine firing on its own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T13:55:45.390" Title="How long would pouring a little oil into a spark plug well take to stop a car starting?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T10:59:25.670" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I sit in my car with it idling the heat goes cold, but if I press the gas or drive off it heats back up. Can anyone help pinpoint this problem? Also, with engine running I can clearly hear fluid of some type circulating. What could this be and is it ok? Please help...08 Saturn aura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17150" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T11:23:41.143" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T16:18:56.470" Title="08 Saturn Aura needs help" Tags="|hvac|saturn|heat|aura|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29374" CreationDate="2016-05-05T11:22:55.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the way Honda does a lot of their suspension parts. Take for instance, the part below. It isn't sold with bushings, but rather as a complete unit. This is the complete A-Arm from the front end kit for your Jazz (called a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Jazz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fit&lt;/a&gt;&quot; here in the US). With this in mind, I don't think they are telling you anything out of the ordinary, though it does sound like it from the outside. This is what I'd expect to change if I were doing the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0Kjf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o0Kjf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:22:55.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21586" CreationDate="2016-05-05T11:37:28.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light comes on for issues that the ECU can detect from its many sensors.  The ECU controls fuel and spark.  This means the ECU will not come on for mechanical issues that cannot be detected by a sensor.  However, some of these items can cause a misfire code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some Examples:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Air filter clogged&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Exhaust leak&lt;br&gt;&#xA;plugged cat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;clogged fuel injector &lt;br&gt;&#xA;malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator&lt;br&gt;&#xA;clogged fuel filter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;malfunctioning fuel pump&lt;br&gt;&#xA;spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Vacuum leak&lt;br&gt;&#xA;dirty throttle body&lt;br&gt;&#xA;malfunctioning fast idle thermo valve (similar to vacuum leak)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;low oil (unless there is an oil level sensor)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;belts&lt;br&gt;&#xA;gaskets&lt;br&gt;&#xA;seals&lt;br&gt;&#xA;rings&lt;br&gt;&#xA;low compression&lt;br&gt;&#xA;bearing damage (rod knock)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Broken cam &lt;br&gt;&#xA;rocker fell/broke off &lt;br&gt;&#xA;broken valve spring &lt;br&gt;&#xA;stuck valve &lt;br&gt;&#xA;critical engine damage (windowed the block)&#xA;wiring, fuses, relays&lt;br&gt;&#xA;starting system - ignition switch, starter, relay&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cooling system - clogs, leaks, flow (may throw a code if you overheat)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;transmission clutch(es)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;driveshaft, differential, axles&lt;br&gt;&#xA;brakes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;suspension&lt;br&gt;&#xA;tires&lt;br&gt;&#xA;hvac&lt;br&gt;&#xA;lights&lt;br&gt;&#xA;gauges&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T11:37:28.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29383" CreationDate="2016-05-05T12:12:22.937" Score="1" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my truck picked up a new quirk. When I start or stop the engine there is a static scratching noise that comes from the dash. I also tried turning the key just far enough to get power and gauges and that produced the noise as well. My best guess at this point is that it happens when the gas gauge goes from  empty to actual level when power comes on, and then again when it goes to empty when power is cut. Radio and climate controls are both off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't exactly tell if the noise is mechanical or electrical. It sounds a lot like crackling static or sand paper across a hard surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T13:46:43.797" Title="08 Silverado static/scratching noise from dashboard" Tags="|noise|ignition|silverado|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29768" CreationDate="2016-05-05T12:20:57.490" Score="7" ViewCount="10858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced myself or had replaced all pads, all rotors, front calipers, rear guide pins and brackets, rear brake shoes, and rear e-brake hardware, as well as the e-brake cable on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD (4.8L). After the front work, I noticed a smell and found that the front passenger rotor was getting hot and would eventually start having a bad brake smell if I drove long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some research, it looked like the primary culprit was thought to be the brake hose (due to possible internal collapse). So I replaced it as well. Still dragging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had it brought in for part of the work because I wasn't having any luck removing some seized parts, and I had them look into it, and they said when they drove it, they couldn't get it hotter than the rest. I drove it home last night and it seemed fine, but towards the end of the drive, the pedal seemed to be getting harder. So this morning, I mashed on the pedal a few times before getting too far from home, and by the time I got to work, the pedal was fairly stiff (noticed braking action within about 1/2&quot; - 1&quot; of movement tops, which it's &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; been that tight before) and the front passenger rotor smelled. I grabbed our heat gun and recorded the following temps (They were probably hotter, but I spent a few minutes after arriving looking for our heat gun before I could measure them):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Passenger: 220 F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Driver: 165 F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Passenger: 135 F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Driver: 165 F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This truck has a split front-to-rear hydraulic system. So I have a few ideas and was looking for validation (or dismissal) of these ideas, other ideas, other ways to troubleshoot this, and what I should try first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Driver brake hose. Due to the split front-to-rear configuration, if a faulty brake hose can act like a check valve, could it be stopping fluid backflow for this entire line?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Driver caliper. I can't imagine this would cause the Front Passenger to stick, it would just cause the Rear Driver to not retract and burn up the pads and rotors, but I thought I'd put it down since I haven't replaced it ;-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Master Brake Cylinder. Could it be something (debris, faulty check valve) at the master cylinder that is causing this portion of the line not to back-flow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU). Same reasons as Master Brake Cylinder, clogging on one line but not on another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any thoughts on this one? This brake work has reminded me that I &lt;strong&gt;hate&lt;/strong&gt; brake work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I also replaced the front passenger side caliper on warranty from AutoZone where I bought it because I thought it was defective (due to the dragging). Same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastEditorUserId="7859" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T13:17:46.927" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T14:40:28.020" Title="2000 Chevrolet Silverado brakes dragging, 4 new rotors, 4 sets of pads, new e-brake shoes, new front calipers" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|brake-rotor|silverado|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29386" CreationDate="2016-05-05T12:56:40.597" Score="5" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;The left stick behind the steering wheel is missing a piece as you can see here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0wTUc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0wTUc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Kuhl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Kuhl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;and in this one.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if this is replaceable and if so what the part number would be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16752" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:14:14.193" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:14:14.193" Title="Volvo V70 turn light activator" Tags="|volvo|part-identification|parts|v70|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29379" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:23:11.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gauges in the dash are actuated by motors. When you turn the vehicle on, they do their &quot;power on self test&quot; and start doing their thing getting the gauges set correctly. If one of them is having an issue, you could be hearing the scratching noise because of this. I had an '04 Suburban which had the speedo go bad and this is exactly what it sounds like. It was fixed under warranty, but sounds like you are well out of it. If this sounds like what you are hearing, you may try getting a replacement (used) cluster for it as a fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T13:46:43.797" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T13:46:43.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29375" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:36:50.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the plug wire was old and not sealing around the plug then you cold experience misfires not necessarily a no start. A lot of cars run fine with oil in the plug well from bad tube seals. Subarus are notorious for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T13:36:50.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33143" CreationDate="2016-05-05T13:45:49.610" Score="6" ViewCount="11486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota vitz 2007 and I am facing a problem for about 2 weeks now. Sometimes when I press the accelerator, the engine revs up but I hardly see any acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is severe when I am going uphill. If I stopped midway on the slope and then tried to accelerate, the vehicle almost doesn't move. If I press the accelerator harder, the vehicle starts to jerk, but still hardly moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my wiring harness too, and I have soldered several broken wires. Mostly due to the harness, vehicle idles roughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29164/engine-revs-without-much-acceleration&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question few days back, but I wrongly mentioned that my transmission is automatic, but only today I found that it is CVT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car to a mechanic and he is going to disassemble the gear box and check tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to first change the wiring harness and see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can CVT transmission slip? Could this be a problem with the torque converter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T06:37:17.883" Title="CVT transmission slipping" Tags="|toyota|vitz|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29382" CreationDate="2016-05-05T14:30:12.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find the parts list for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volvo online here.&lt;/a&gt;  The link of interest will be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=242169&amp;amp;ukey_make=865&amp;amp;ukey_model=12011&amp;amp;modelYear=2001&amp;amp;ukey_category=7858&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Home&gt; Volvo&gt; V70&gt; 2001&gt; Electrical system&gt; Switches, turn indicators, main and dipped beams, WIPER/WASHER&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it looks like the smallest part they sell is the entire turn signal switch. It looks like they run between $67 and $148.. Hmm.. not cheap.  The price depends on the options, and as I suspect your luck is just like mine, yours is closer to the $148 number.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to check the parts window at your local Volvo dealership, but I suspect they will have similar results and prices as shown above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you still have the broken parts from the original one? This might be a fun and rewarding 3D plastic printed part exercise.  You'd have to &quot;design it&quot; with a CAD system (I use SolidWorks) but there are other options available.  You need a complete 3D digital model of the part.  Then you could just print out a new one.  I would recommend black ABS for the material. I'm pretty sure the broken part is ABS, so that's a match.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, wow.  I just checked.  You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://gizmodorks.com/abs-3d-printer-filament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy grey ABS as well&lt;/a&gt;.  A roll is around $25 depending where you look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T14:30:12.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29380" CreationDate="2016-05-05T15:48:19.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this behavior with a bad ehcu but is rare, they have an internal valve for each wheel, but it does happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal collapsed brake hose I have seen many times, also sticking calipers use to be common but I hardly see that anymore since they went back to steel pistons. Steel piston calipers can do this but requires a lot of internal corrosion on the piston to make it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a test drive and you suspect wheel drag, open the caliper bleeder screw on the wheel that is dragging, if fluid squirts out (back pressure), then you have a blockage upstream from the caliper, if no fluid back pressure is present then suspect a bad caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get a squirt (back pressure) at the caliper, repeat this process, test drive etc, each time moving upstream toward the master cylinder, by loosening a fitting  to see if you get back pressure. When you find a place where no back pressure is found then it is between there and the last place you got back pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is rare a Master Cylinder is the cause, but I have seen this a few times myself, some brake boosters have adjustable push pins, if they are adjusted too far out they will hold the master cylinder piston in just enough to block the return port, and it does not take much inward piston travel to do this. You don't usually see these adjustable pins on American trucks, I only remember this being the cause on foreign cars. If it is the master cylinder it will cause all wheels to drag, so I don't think the M/C is the cause in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T15:55:34.893" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T15:55:34.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29376" CreationDate="2016-05-05T16:18:56.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is typical of coolant being low in the radiator-engine. Let the engine cool overnight, then remove the radiator cap to see if you need to add some coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of radiator overflow system, checking the overflow bottle will not always reflect if the radiator is full, especially if there is a slow coolant leak somewhere. Check it at the radiator cap when the engine is COLD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T16:18:56.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T17:18:17.623" Score="6" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 96 Ford Taurus and the shifter is giving me issues. For some reason it won't move out of park and I do not want to try to force it to shift and cause further damage. I'm aware that I need to press the brake pedal in order to shift into gear but I always do and the problem still occurs. What is the problem? What is the range for repair costs? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17154" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T21:03:01.507" Title="Broken shifter? My 96 Ford Taurus won't shift out of park, and I don't know why! Help?" Tags="|ford|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T17:57:25.080" Score="18" ViewCount="25063" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had an oil change done at a quick lube type shop. After nearly 3 months and 3,000 miles driven, the oil drain plug fell out, resulting in blowing up the entire engine. There was no oil leakage or any sign of trouble up to the point where the plug came out; no oil in the driveway, or parking spot at place of employment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have gone through the process of filing a complaint with the oil change shop, and both their owner and insurance company have denied liability, even though they were the last to have touched the oil drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause the oil plug to just come out, if not for that company's possible negligence or shoddy workmanship? Have we just driven the car too many miles to assign blame to any party?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17156" LastEditorUserId="17156" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T18:03:22.640" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T15:04:56.113" Title="How can an oil plug just fall out after three months and 3,000 miles and the car has just 35,000 miles on it, 2014 Ford Escape" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29392" CreationDate="2016-05-05T18:10:44.910" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It definitely could have worked it's way (the drain bolt) over the three month period from the previous change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause would be an improperly torqued oil drain bolt.  It wouldn't be the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting together evidence that it IS their fault is impossible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to clearly answer this question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What could cause the oil plug to just come out, if not for that company's possible negligence or shoddy workmanship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil drain plug was not tightened properly upon its last placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the negligence.  It's impossible to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have we just driven the car too many miles to assign blame to any party?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't be answered.  This seems more legal.  You can probably read some legal verbiage associated with your work order, if you still have it, and determine the answer to that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T07:28:35.907" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T07:28:35.907" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29392" CreationDate="2016-05-05T20:50:29.883" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same experience with a chain oil change shop. It's one of the reasons I stopped using any outside mechanic for anything short of things I can't handle due to specialized tools or time required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case it was also thousands of miles before the problem showed up. I did have droplets of oil on the driveway, but I can easily imagine scenarios where you wouldn't see any drops depending on how the oil pan is placed, and how loose the screw was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, I found it before the drain plug fell out and dropped all the oil on the road. The cause in my case was that the shop did not bother to torque it properly when they put it on. It's unknown if they even put a wrench on it, or just hand tightened it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot address the legal aspects of your questions, but, I can confirm that it will go thousands of miles driven before that bolt works itself out enough to release the oil. With a car as young as yours I can't think of any other cause for that bolt to just drop out. In an older car with some kind of crush washer behind the drain bolt, perhaps it was too old and needed replacement. For a car that new, I am stumped as to what else it could be besides the incompetence of the shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T20:57:23.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T20:57:23.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29390" CreationDate="2016-05-05T21:03:01.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First have someone check to see if your brake lights work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't check fuse 28 in the underdash fuse panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fuse 28 is OK locate the stoplight switch on the brake pedal. Key on engine off, use a paper clip and jump the 2 terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can shift out of park and the brake lights come on replace the stoplight switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake lights come on and it still won't come out of park.Check fuse 5 in the underdash fuse panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fuse 5 is OK, locate the shiftlock actuator on the bottom on the steering column. Check for power on the grey/yellow and red/light green wires, check for ground on the black wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If power and ground are OK, replace the shiftlock actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T21:03:01.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2016-05-06T00:26:48.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Paulster2. Leak down test is about compression rings, not oil control rings. You can have good compression/leak down and consume oil. I would look at the pcv system. If there is too much &quot;blow by&quot; the pcv cannot keep up. Make sure there is vacuum to the pcv, and enough vacuum. A stopped up pcv vacuum port/line will cause excessive oil consumption and can cause leaks and/or oil consumption as pressure builds inside the engine. Fuel injected engines do not smoke like carbureted engines did. Looking at he plugs will help in figuring out where the oil is going. Dark, sooted plugs are oil burners. Whitish plugs are normal. PCV valves are cheap.  I would change it and make sure all breather tubes are clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T00:26:48.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29371" CreationDate="2016-05-06T02:04:00.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 4x4 vehicles (as opposed to all wheel drive) do not have a differential in the transfer case. The Dodge Durango, has a non-differential transfer case, meaning that the front and rear drive shafts will spin at the same speed all the time in 4 wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be any problem with removing your front drive shaft and driving your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, if you can switch the vehicle between 2wd and 4wd, there is no differential in the transfer case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastEditorUserId="16464" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T12:27:23.380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T12:27:23.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26297" CreationDate="2016-05-06T03:25:01.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a crack in the ceramic at the top of the coil causing momentary flash over to the engine block. I had that once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T03:25:01.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30023" CreationDate="2016-05-06T08:26:19.543" Score="4" ViewCount="62998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone else was in the driver seat and they were trying to drive. At one point I took out the key and when he put it back in the car wouldn't start. This was yesterday and it still won't start. The brake pedal is stiff and won't move and I can't get the gear down from park. The steering wheel won't move either. If I insert the key it clicks and if I turn it it clicks as well. The display does turn on and so does the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Mercedes Benz E-200 from 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the result from the multimeter test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDOb8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDOb8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also bought this kit to jump-start the car:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/jump-leads/phaze-4-in-1-jump-starter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/jump-leads/phaze-4-in-1-jump-starter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17166" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T20:22:16.133" Title="Automatic car won't start, steering wheel won't turn, key just makes car click etc - but radio works?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mercedes-benz|steering-lock|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29401" CreationDate="2016-05-06T09:12:35.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the problem relates to a low battery.  Actually turning the start motor is the most intensive process that the battery does.  If it's low on change you can get the situation where other things will work but the starter won't turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best course of action is to use a set of jump leads or use a charger to top up the battery and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, it could be that the exciter cable that &quot;switches on&quot; your starter has become dislodged or snapped.  The problem could also be in your ignition switch or with the cars immobilizer but I'd rule out a low battery first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T09:12:35.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:28:31.327" Score="10" ViewCount="60801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to get my long-suffering Toyota RAV4 first generation (1998) to start &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29219/main-engine-not-firing-after-non-engine-related-fixes-replacing-fuses-and-trans&quot;&gt;after numerous different problems&lt;/a&gt;, the latest of which I've narrowed to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29240/how-to-check-if-spark-plugs-are-firing-coil-on-plugs?lq=1&quot;&gt;the spark plugs not firing&lt;/a&gt; seemingly due to no power reaching the spark plug wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my next problem is figuring out why no power is reaching the spark plug wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've checked all the fuses (even ones unrelated to the problem), and tested them all with a multimeter even when they look fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've checked and tested the main relay out of the car (though I guess it's possible there's a problem with the connection to and from the relay?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery, starter motor, dashboard, fan and fuel pump all appear to be working fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spark plugs themselves are new, don't appear to be damaged (though I'm not exactly qualified to judge). A little bit grimey, maybe, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29375/how-long-would-pouring-a-little-oil-into-a-spark-plug-well-take-to-stop-a-car-st&quot;&gt;doesn't appear to be enough to cause a problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;check engine&quot; light &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; come on while I'm trying to start the car. I know in some models, this indicates no power to the ECU, I can't find confirmation whether that's also true for old RAV4s (and I can't remember if it came on when starting the car before). Nothing in the owner's guide or that I can find online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got an electrician coming to look at it, but I've been warned by many car owners who've been in this country (Sierra Leone) longer than I have that car electrics is the biggest skills gap the largely self-taught local mechanics have, something I've seen evidence of already, e.g. none have been able to make any progress at all with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/22690/rav4-speedometer-sometimes-stops-at-0-sometimes-less-often-works-perfectly&quot;&gt;this dashboard problem&lt;/a&gt;, and I've found many worrying things like blown fuses &quot;fixed&quot; by wrapping copper wire around the connections (I replaced all these immediately!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to at least be able to do some investigation of the problem myself and if I can't solve it myself at least be in a better position to supervise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I think I've fixed the original problem that was causing me to check the power to the spark plugs, but it's absurdly specific to the hazards of car ownership in a  3rd-world country, so it's not likely to be much help to most people interested in this sort of diagnosis! The &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/29224/13299&quot;&gt;details are here on my answer to my original &quot;car won't start under strange circumstances&quot; problem&lt;/a&gt; (basically, the fuse socket's connection to the ignition system was lost due to bits of broken copper wire stuck deep in the socket, from an earlier broken fuse having been &quot;fixed&quot; with wire under a previous owner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T04:22:35.753" Title="How to diagnose the cause of no power reaching the spark plugs when power reaches everything else, after checking fuses?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|ignition|sparkplugs|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29403" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:59:27.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've established that you're not getting a spark at the plugs, the next thing to do would be to work back - so test the coil packs. Pull out the plug from one of the coil packs and see if it is getting power, has a good ground, and has some kind of signal coming from the ECU. If it does, chances are it's the coil pack itself that's failed (though both failing at the same time seems unusual). You'll need to find a pinout of the coil or a wiring diagram for the car to work out which pin is which. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one or more of those are missing, at least you'll have a better idea of where to look...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T10:59:27.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29401" CreationDate="2016-05-06T12:30:31.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is a battery problem, given the circumstances and the fact the radio and everything else still work - but it's possible repeated failed attempts to start the car while diagnosing the real problem might &lt;em&gt;flatten&lt;/em&gt; the battery, &lt;em&gt;giving&lt;/em&gt; you a battery problem on top of the original problem... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest getting a couple of things as a precaution, which are both useful things to have anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A multimeter that can measure DC volts up to at least one, preferably two decimal places (a &quot;20&quot; option in the DC volts area of the dial is a good sign), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/rolson-digital-multimeter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some way to charge the battery. Jump leads might not help if you can't start the engine... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/pocket-sized-jump-starters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lithium ion battery packs designed for car batteries aka &quot;pocket jumpstarters&quot;&lt;/a&gt; seem to be gaining in popularity, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/jump-leads/ring-lithium-powerpack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure which brands you can use them without being able to start the engine. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Simple-Start-Lithium-Ion-Jump-Starter-amp-Battery-Charger/46007586&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's one&lt;/a&gt; that advertises itself as a &quot;charger&quot; as well as jump starter and describes being able to connect it and let it run without starting the engine. If the car's at home and there's an electric outlet nearby, a plug-in charger will be the cheapest and simplest option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the actual problem. Cheapest and easiest thing to rule out is a problem with the &lt;strong&gt;fuses and connections leading to the starter motor&lt;/strong&gt;, which can also result in the same combination of clicking noises while failing to start with power working for the rest of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses. Fuse box locations and descriptions should be in the owner's manual. There might be a fuse removal tool, or if not, you should be able to pull all &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29231/how-to-remove-the-50-amp-80-amp-and-100-amp-fuses-from-the-positive-terminal-of&quot;&gt;except 50a+ monsters&lt;/a&gt; out by simply pulling with pliers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any specific fuses where you're not sure whether the filament is blown from looking, if you got that multimeter recommended above, you can test them by setting the multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) and touching one connector to one end of the fuse and looking for a change in reading when you connect the other. If the meter reading doesn't change when there's contact on both sides, the fuse is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're all fine, look for loose cables or connections leading to the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[edit - after realising I misread the question slightly, I think this is less likely than a fuse problem]&lt;/em&gt; Given that you mention the steering wheel being locked, and the key having been pulled out in an unusual way, &lt;strong&gt;it sounds like some kind of anti-theft system has kicked in&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mercedesmedic.com/my-key-wont-turn-ignition-mercedes-benz-problem/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mercedes Mechanic&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the key does not turn in the ignition, try moving the steering wheel as you try to turn the key. The steering wheel will feel completely solid if you try to move it in one direction and may move slightly in the opposite direction. Push the steering wheel in the direction that allows a little movement and then insert the key and try to turn the key again. You can put pressure on the steering wheel and also try shaking the steering wheel. As you do this insert the key into the ignition and try to turn the key. DO NOT TRY TO FORCE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. The steering column lock is a security feature which all car manufacturers incorporate in the cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have and can't get a spare key, it seems that official roadside assistance companies (your local equivalent of the AA or RAC in the UK) can bypass such locks in manufacturer approved ways. You might also be able to buy an additional key from your dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, there are a number of claimed fixes and locksmith companies who claim to be able to bypass such systems. I can't vouch for any, but do some research on your specific model and area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before committing to anything, find out what you can about what steering wheel lock related security figures your model has. Hopefully the owner's manual will tell you something useful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T13:50:26.733" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7429" CreationDate="2016-05-06T12:49:17.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure the oil reaches its operating temperature (80°C+) from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant temp. indicator is not too helpful with that. You may have to do 15km or more of normal driving for the oil to be at 80°, probably more when hyper-miling due to less heat produced/wasted in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water (from combustion/condensation) and unburned fuel continuously get into the oil and degrade its quality. Temperatures of 80-110°C are needed to remove these components from the oil through evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the color/transparency of the lubricant, many say that too clean an oil is an indicator of not-so-good oil. Rationale: Every engine produces soot and other residues, and the oil is supposed to wash them away and keep the particles in suspension until they're drained with the oil at the next oil change. Hence, clean oil = dirty engine, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastEditorUserId="6794" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T13:36:04.607" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T13:36:04.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29409" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;LPG or Liquefied Petroleum Gas is also referred to propane or butane and is used as an alternative fuel in some vehicles.  Vehicles from small passenger to heavy trucks can use this fuel and conversion kits are available for many gasoline engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29410" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" Score="0" Body="Liquefied Petroleum Gas powered engine.  Also referred to propane or butane." OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T13:57:47.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29419" CreationDate="2016-05-06T14:39:57.443" Score="11" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parents in law gave me a jet boat, it hasn't been started in 5 years. The boat  resided in NH on a trailer on their yard for 5 years, so it  has seen freezing temperatures frequently. From what I understand, 6 years ago the boat ran fine at the end of the season it was winterize. At the beginning of the following season, the owner was unable to start it and just gave up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is specifically a 1991 or 1992 Boston Whaler Rage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.channelblade.com/EProWebsiteMedia/2904/Owner&amp;#39;s%20Manual%20early%2090&amp;#39;s%20Rage.pdf&quot;&gt;Boston Whaler Rage Manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boat has a Yamaha two stroke engine in it ( model number : j650c ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine has been submerged in water up to the drive train. When I went to change the spark plugs and found that one of them was loose. There was about 3oz of water out of the chamber under the spark plug that I sucked out. I tried moving the driveshaft with my hands but I am unable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next plans are to spray 'PB Blaster' in the spark plug holes, probably a couple times over the course of a week, and then use a wrench to try and get the driveshaft spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable thing to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I should lube to try and get the driveshaft spinning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be more concerned with other aspects of the boat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driveshaft should be able to move by hand, correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the impeller may be frozen as well, should I detach that from the engine before trying to spin the driveshaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These motors want the oil mixed right into the gasoline for the engine, is there any other place where I should be changing oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips or advice will be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:36:09.537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:32:00.130" Title="Starting a 2 stroke jet boat after several years" Tags="|two-stroke|boat|seized-engine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29414" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:06:42.543" Score="7" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of purchacing a Citroen BX dashboard from a superior model than my BX 14 wich currently only features a Velocimeter, fault lights and an analog clock, for one with various analog indicators including temp sensors and tachometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically this one.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6tkjD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6tkjD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sorry for the pic quality&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the connections are identical I'm worried in case my car doesn't feature the specific components to &quot;read&quot; these inputs, in wich case it'd be silly for me to fit an instrument wich displays this reading.&#xA;For example, my car has lights that display overheating in a boolean way (on oveheat, off regular temperature) and since it doesn't include a tachometer I don't know if it has the means of reading RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be safe to assume all displays will work?&#xA;Could I install aftermarket components to provide the readings if it doesnt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a gasoline carburettor BX 14 from 1990.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T16:02:02.223" Title="Replacing a dashboard for another one with more indicators" Tags="|sensor|aftermarket-upgrade|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29392" CreationDate="2016-05-06T15:48:29.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough reputation to comment, so I will post here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the low oil pressure light, or similar indicator, did not light up, or was not noticed, it could be that the oil pan plug or bolt fell out during a longer trip and prior to the 3000 miles when the condition was noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plug did not leak (much) before falling out, the small amount of oil could be trapped by the plastic shroud, as mentioned by race fever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plug finally fell out on a longer trip (rough guess based on my oil changes: maybe as little as 20-30 minutes), almost all of the oil could drain out on the road before parking it at home or work, where you would have the possibility of noticing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, if the indicator still is not enabled or noticed, it is possible to drive around for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long? It depends on many factors, but maybe as much 50-100+ miles (80-160km) before the engine &quot;blows up.&quot; Note that shorter trips, where the engine does not get too hot for too long, could delay the &quot;blow up.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a co-worker experience this a few months ago on a much older car (13 years old, &gt;200k miles). The co-worker's lack of awareness and automobile experience resulted in at least 3-4 trips of about 5-10 miles (8-16 km) &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the no oil (and no oil plug) condition was noticed. The engine never seized and fortunately the quickie lube business (a large national US chain) paid out the claim. In this case, the condition occurred only 2-3 weeks after the oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16946" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T15:48:29.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29412" CreationDate="2016-05-06T16:02:02.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer to your question is: &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific, I &lt;em&gt;cannot tell you if it will work or not&lt;/em&gt;. It appears you already have the specific dash version you want. What you can do is &lt;em&gt;install it and see if it will work&lt;/em&gt;. What is the worst which can happen? If you are not modifying anything to fit the different gauge cluster, all you have to do is reinstall the old one and you are back where you started. No harm; no foul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm not sure about your exact model and manufacturer, but most vehicle manufacturers (excluding super cars and low volume vehicle producers) create a single wiring harness which will work across different models and sometimes even different platforms. This means most likely all of the wiring is in place to provide you with the connections you need as well as the input to the gauges. They do this for two simple reasons: 1) reduced engineering costs; 2) economy of numbers. Yes, both of those are related to saving money, but it's provided two different ways, which equates to even more savings and therefore more potential earnings. If the connectors are exactly the same, more than likely it will plug in and work for your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the gauges don't work, you can always go the aftermarket route to get what you want. There are plenty of gauge companies which will provide you with what you need. The main factor here is the outlay of money which you will incur in order to fulfill your needs/wants/desires. Companies such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autometer.com/&quot;&gt;Autometer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classicinstruments.com/&quot;&gt;Classic Instruments&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dakotadigital.com/&quot;&gt;Dakota Digital&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vdo-gauges.com/&quot;&gt;VDO&lt;/a&gt; are just a few brands which can provide gauges for you. They can provide different sizes of different gauges for just about anything your heart desires. Going this route would require some fabrication, but if you are willing to put in the work, it really isn't too difficult. I've seen some really nicely done home installs. It just takes some research to figure out what you want and how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T16:02:02.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-05-06T16:47:49.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water in the cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is in bad shape from improper storage. Even if you get it freed up there will be rust on the cylinder walls and piston rings, which will cause more damage if you manage to get it running or spinning over with the starter. The best solution is removal and complete disassembly and inspection of the engine. Make a decision to rebuild or replace after tear down of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:54:32.063" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T23:54:32.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29420" CreationDate="2016-05-06T16:56:32.480" Score="8" ViewCount="44286" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tires need to be replaced, but the tires I want need to be ordered and could take up to a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my car to the shop 2 weeks ago and I was told that my tires need replacing. I checked them myself and indeed they need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then however I haven't replaced my tires and it could be another 2 weeks before replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive my car about 40 miles a day commuting to and from work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry about driving my tires during these 2 weeks or are they still safe to drive on? Note that during these 2 weeks it is possible that I will be driving in rainy weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17174" LastEditorUserId="17174" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T17:06:36.157" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T00:39:25.877" Title="How long before replacing tires that are already at 2/32?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29392" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:18:46.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an oil squirter come loose inside my engine and destroy a piston about 10 years after a rebuild. Sometimes stuff just comes loose and it's no one's fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that it it was probably an improperly torqued plug, but it wasn't so far out of spec that it would count as negligence in the minds of most judges or juries. It held in there for 3 months and 3k miles so it was at least somewhat tight. (I'm a lawyer and I wouldn't feel like this is anything like a slam dunk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't notice any leak before it came out. Once it came loose enough to leak, the plug would soon fall out and all the oil would very quickly leave out the bottom of the engine. Some time shortly after that your oil pressure would bottom out, warning lights would come on and shortly thereafter you will suffer bearing and cam journal damage. You can rebuild an engine after this sort of mishap, but it basically means taking the whole thing apart so you can replace or machine all the lubricated moving parts (bearings, cams, anything touching the cam journals). It's a huge pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T16:55:07.530" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T16:55:07.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:26:19.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;How Long? No time left, 2/32 is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=157&quot;&gt;recommended depth they should be replaced&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain? You have a good chance of losing control of the vehicle if it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=16&quot;&gt;hydroplanes&lt;/a&gt; on the water, and 2/32 does not leave much room for the tires to not hydroplane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T17:47:47.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T17:47:47.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:38:06.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water in the cylinder usually means water in the crankcase on a two stroke&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling water out of the cylinder doesn't mean you pulled out all the water.  Two stroke engines use ports on the side of the cylinder rather than valves at the top of a cylinder (4-Stroke).  The ports run down the outside of the cylinder wall into the crankcase which means there is a high probability that there is water in your crankcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Results of Water in Crankcase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rusted main crankshaft bearings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rusted connecting rod bearings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rusted rings seized to the cylinder wall&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remediation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take the cylinder head off of the top of the motor.  There is nothing technically difficult regarding removal and re-assembly.  There are no valves or machinery in it, just take off the bolts and remove the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now will be able to see the top of the piston.  You can knock the top of the piston with a hammer and screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Put the handle side of the screwdriver against the top of the piston and hit the screwdriver shaft with the hammer.  If you can't get the piston to move, it's probably seized.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@moab has good advice.  Disassemble the motor and inspect it for rust/debris.  I suspect bad news and a complete seizure at the crank as well as the pistons being seized to the cylinder wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  You have quite a project on your hands if you've never rebuilt a two stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is animation to give you a visual of how water can get into the crankcase of a two-stroke engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMZNn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMZNn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T02:32:00.130" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:32:00.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:40:54.893" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't have &quot;threads&quot; showing through the rubber, you should be OK.  Be aware that you do have less traction, and need more time for braking, but you're not on borrowed time until the belts show.  Rain will be an issue, but if you know your car is under-performing a lot of the danger is taken away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, drive defensively.  Leave yourself an out in case a tire does loose pressure rapidly, drive slower, and just be careful in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you know your tires are bad, and you have some on order is a lot better than many people that drive until the tire is completely bald and they either notice when it's time for an inspection or the tire stops holding air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On re-reading this, it may come across as &quot;don't worry about replacing the tires until the belts are showing&quot;...  I'm not saying that.  For sure, replace your tires when they are under 2/32&quot; as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T17:54:24.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T17:54:24.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29401" CreationDate="2016-05-06T17:50:41.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of good answers and discussion about electrical issues and other complicated things, but to me it sounds like the steering lock is under tension and not allowing the key to turn all the way and start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sit in almost any car, turn it off, remove the key, and then turn the steering wheel until it clicks into the locked state.  The rubber tires and steering system will provide a spring-like force that holds the steering wheel tight against the steering lock.  The tension is very strong, and turning a tiny key is going to be impossible with the forces involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab the steering wheel and turn it away from the lock (just a little is ok) to relieve the pressure and try to turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only thing I can think of that would stop a car from starting by just playing with the key and steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T13:36:25.787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T13:36:25.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29403" CreationDate="2016-05-06T19:21:04.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of thumb: 1. always check fuses first.  If fuses are okay, then check relays [those are the silver 'fuses' in the fuse harness. 2. all okay?  3. check major relays under the hood.  These are generally box-shaped black plastic with larger wires coming out of them.  These are major problems in older cars because of the heat and moisture generated over time.  4.  relays okay?  Finally, check the distributor...even fuel injected cars have a distributor system to send power to the plugs correctly. Distributor okay? 5.  take this beast to the mechanic.  Make sure he/she is someone used to tracking down electronic problems in automobiles.  You say it's a Rav 4 so it really is not that complicated, but when dealing with electronics it is very difficult some times to track down the problem let alone fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17127" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T19:21:04.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2016-05-06T20:21:28.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends...how much is your life worth? If you're going to be driving in rainy weather and just cannot replace your tires, I strongly suggest renting a car. As @Moab indicates, it takes little water on the road to cause tires with a mere &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;32&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;nds&lt;/sup&gt; of an inch of tread to hydroplane. I seem to recall a Mythbuster episode where they showed that such a tire would hydroplane to the point of complete loss of control at just 35 mph. There are some things worth risking one's life over; this is not one of them.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt;At the very least I would watch your local weather reports, and if there's a good possibility of rain, I would work from home, take public transportation, or rent a car whichever was more reasonable, and continue doing so until the tires are replaced.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;What are the odds that you could get away with driving on those tires unscathed? Probably pretty good. But I assume there are hundreds of others reading this same post, and I'd hate for anyone to assume that that implying they're safe driving on unsafe tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:51:06.130" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:51:06.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-05-06T21:30:32.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At best, &quot;persuading&quot; the engine to turn over will result in damage when it is started (because of rusty bearings, etc.). You might not even get that far, and you'll damage a piston or twist the crank while trying to free it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dismantling a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two-stroke engine&lt;/a&gt; is very simple. Then inspect everything. With luck, you can put it back together with new bearings, seals and piston rings, and you'll have a reliable engine. And if you're not lucky, at least you haven't bodged it, gone to sea and then broken down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17176" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T02:22:16.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T02:22:16.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10978" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:04:56.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent 25 years as a Helicopter technician, and from year one i was Ordered NEVER EVER to double click a torque wrench.  This double clicking that i see mechanics do drives me nuts.  You are &quot;overtorquing&quot; if you do it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17177" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:04:56.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:07:21.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gravel would be better than parking on dirt, mud, straight grass, or anything with a lot of water in it.   However its not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is exactly as you state - water rises and slowly damages your price-and-joy.  This may not be an issue if you trade up yearly, but personally my two cars are 26 and 42 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of best to worst&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside a garage, dry stored, with concrete or wooden floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside a garage, dry stored, with dry dirt floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under a carport, with concrete/wood floor &gt; dry dirt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside, on concrete or tarmac &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside, &lt;strong&gt;on gravel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside on dry dirt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside on grass - better in summer than winter, can get stuck in winter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside on sand &amp;lt;-- parked vehicles can sink into sand, especially at the beach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside on mud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside on water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car covers will help but are only a minor improvement.&#xA;Secure locked garages are perfect.&#xA;Parking up a dirty (muddy) vehicle also contributes to moisture problems.  4WD should be washed off underneath to remove moisture-holding mud from all chassis nooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off street parking is preferred over on-street parking because of insurance and vulnerability - your car parked on your property is better than out on the roadway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt; If you care about your car, a garage is best.  Can you rent garage space nearby?   Can you build a garage on your property?  Can you lease/buy a shipping container as a car garage?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do make a parking platform, do use marine-grade timber else it will rot or mush out quickly.  Use galvanised nails/screws, and consider where the tyres/tires will be, to reduce puncture risks.  Also consider drainage direction, and where water will go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on budget, I'd go with laying a concrete platform instead of building a wooden one.  As money permits you can erect a roof and walls on the weather side/s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:07:21.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29509" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:08:23.663" Score="6" ViewCount="1862" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Short Story&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a friend asked me to look at a 3.0 L Taurus at his shop. The car originally came in for a P0420 code and they put an anti-fouler on the rear o2 sensor. Whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the road test the car developed a high idle and idle surge. They replaced the Idle Air Control Valve twice hoping to fix the issue. It didn't. So the upper intake manifold and gasket were replaced along with some vacuum hoses. Still the same symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get called to look at it. Hook up the scan tool observe high positive fuel trims and the idle complaint. No codes, they were probably reset. Maybe it was a false positive, maybe not. Reset the Keep Alive Memory and go for a test drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Idle seems to settle around 700 rpm except that it jumps about 50 rpm every second. Fuel trims on the other hand are still high. They go normal around 3000 rpm, spraying around the lower intake shows a vacuum leak on the lower intake gasket. Decide to smoke test the intake, smoke is pouring out of the valve covers and lower intake area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I recommend they do a gasket job first and get back to me if the car is still acting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around a week later I get the call asking me to look at the car again. Not only did they replace the lower intake manifold gasket. They also replaced the upper intake manifold again for whatever reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I hook up the scan tool. Fuel trims look OK in the single digits, idle is stable around 700 rpm except for that slight increase every second. Interesting. Disconnecting the IACV confirms base idle is OK and the jump disappears. So plug it back in and try commanding a percentage. Seems like it's working fine, idle is stable no jumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm, weird... I start looking at other PIDs and notice ignition voltage is a little low. Around 13.5v +- .1v, I've seen worse but it's not great either. try revving the engine to 2000 RPM. It doesn't seem to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's time to look at what's going on in the charging system. The GENFDC PID is going to 50% duty cycle every second and correlates to the idle jump... Disconnect the 3 wire connector at the alternator. GENFDC PID goes to a 100% and the idle smooths out. Ignition voltage stays at 13.5v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So surely the alternator is working in default mode? Trace the wiring back to the PCM and everything looks OK... Plug the 3 wire connector back in. GENFDC goes back to doing what it was doing before cycling to 50% every second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backprobing pin 1 the GENMON side of things looks normal, switching&#xA;from 0-10v.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backprobing pin 2 shows what you would expect considering what I was&#xA;seeing on the GENCOM PID.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backprobing pin 3 shows ignition voltage with no real voltage drop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'm leaning towards replacing the alternator, and I tell my friend as much. But a it bugs me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wiring to the PCM is OK (I have no reason at this moment to think that the PCM is the cause) and the alternator is in default charging mode. &lt;strong&gt;Why would it not be able to respond to changes in RPM and load? Maybe the regulator is stuck in default mode?&lt;/strong&gt; It's a possibility and testing thus far is making me lean towards this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the system sees a low ignition voltage and is attempting to raise it by commanding the 50% DC. Idle is then jumping accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything else I should be looking at?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the oddities with the charging system and idle almost everything else seemed fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I wasn't sure of is that the DPFE sensor stayed at around 1.01v, I thought this should be around .5v. I didn't have any access to a known good reading at idle. I unplugged the sensor just to check and the 5v reference and low ref is OK. The DPFE tubes were cold and the EGR solenoid was closed. So I figured I could rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:21:20.463" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T13:21:20.463" Title="2005 Ford Taurus U Vin Unstable Idle, Charging System Problem?" Tags="|idle|charging|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23028" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:10:22.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another point noone's raised - one could assume the wheels are straight normally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're over at lock already, a driver might get a surprise when they get in and drive off, especially if they're in hurry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't take very long at all to strike something/one nearby, like walls, kerb/curbs, people or other parked cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:10:22.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:29:01.590" Score="8" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting cylinder misfire OBDII error codes after performing a cylinder leakdown test. During the test, I was turning the crankshaft to reach TDC for each cylinder and I'm now thinking whether it needed to be readjusted again (to a startup position) in order for the firing to run. The engine is on and running but slightly shaking and the check engine light is on (which is why I got the code readings). Or could moisture (it was mildly raining) have affected the connection between the ignition coils and the spark plugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota Tacoma V6 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T01:46:11.513" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T13:28:51.290" Title="Cylinder misfire after leak down test" Tags="|misfire|tacoma|cylinder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:58:00.417" Score="2" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hesitating between the RAV4 XLE and the RAV4 SE. The RAV4 SE has really cool 18'' wheels and the RAV4 XLE has normal 17'' wheels. I want to get the SE (because of aesthetics), however, I'm afraid the bigger wheels can make my driving experience less pleasant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rav4world.com/forums/123-4-4-general/93344-tire-size.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;the ride becomes terrible due to the 18-inch wheels with aggressive low profile tires. The XLE with 17-inch is much smoother&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? I test drove both, but can't see the difference. Especially with the dealer sitting next to me, I can't focus to try to listen to the extra noises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really like to hear the experts opinion on this. The dealer says there is no difference. I understand he doesn't care which one I buy. I want to know the experts opinion   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17179" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:21:43.290" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:17:04.607" Title="2016 RAV4. 18'' vs. 17'' wheels?" Tags="|toyota|wheels|rav4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29431" CreationDate="2016-05-06T23:29:05.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live in a place where the roads are smooth, you are less likely to ever feel the difference. On the other hand, lower profile improves handling, so if you like a more sporty drive (which I highly disrecommend in an SUV) you will find yourself better in the SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T21:40:27.683" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T21:40:27.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2016-05-07T03:09:33.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem for years on my 2001 Grand Am. We have replaced fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, head gasket (since it redlined after thermostat change) and nothing worked. Same thing, I was fine as long as I wasn't idling places. But, I live in Wisconsin and really all fall and winter it is fine, but once it gets above 80, I have to watch it. My husband has really thought for years that the fan is just not kicking in like it should when it gets hot. He was going to configure the fan to always run on high or use a toggle switch but I have just gotten used to it so I continue to deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17181" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T03:09:33.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2016-05-07T03:37:26.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rain or shine, I would never drive on tires with &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;32&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;nds&lt;/sup&gt; of an inch of tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are just some of the problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your emergency stopping distance is &lt;strong&gt;greatly&lt;/strong&gt; increased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your risk of out-of-control hydroplaning is greatly increased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are much more susceptible to road hazards going through the tread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your traction is reduced on all surfaces.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your ability to maintain control to avoid an obstacle is reduced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the above bullet points, the odds of getting in an accident are significantly increased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In many places, you are subject to getting a ticket and getting fined.  In some places, your drivers license can be suspended or revoked.  Also, in some places, your vehicle can be impounded for being unsafe to operate.  (This is especially true if your physical appearance does not match that of the law enforcement officer.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get in an accident, your insurance company may try to not cover you, because you did not properly maintain your vehicle.  To make matters worse, sometimes insurance companies will take &quot;measurements&quot; of your tires and claim they have even less tread.  (A friend recently got in an accident, and the insurance company's &quot;measurements&quot; were &lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;32&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;nds&lt;/sup&gt; of an inch less than the actual tread depth... lucky for my friend, I know how to measure tire tread depth and had access to their vehicle at the junkyard.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, in your case, it would be better to rent a vehicle or buy your second choice in tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will disagree with the answer that advises just to &quot;drive defensively&quot;.  Although driving defensively is always a good idea, &lt;strong&gt;you can never account for all the idiots on the road&lt;/strong&gt; with you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;(or the fact that all of us are likely one of those many idiots at one time or another...&lt;/strong&gt; I know... &quot;not me!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's easy to check tire depth.  Every tire shop will do it for free, or you can buy a tool to check it yourself.  If you buy the tool, make sure to learn how to properly use it.  There is also the &quot;penny trick&quot;, but the tool is so inexpensive and much more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice is to check your tires frequently for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tread depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sidewall wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sidewall cracking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embedded items (rocks/nails/screws/glass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uneven wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discoloration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged tire valves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missing valve caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper inflation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, you can check your wheels for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missing balancing weights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose balancing weights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missing lug nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose lug nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks or other damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During your routine inspections, you will then notice the tires are getting down to &lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;32&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;nds&lt;/sup&gt; of an inch of tread (or more tread, if the conditions warrant it).  At that time, replace them promptly**.  If you do this, you, and everyone else on the road with you, will be safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* &lt;em&gt;Note that the TireRack article linked to by Moab (but not written by him, so it's not his fault!) is exceptionally misleading when it states: &quot;A practical example of this is the racing slicks used on stock cars and open-wheel racers that provide traction at over 200 mph.&quot;  Those racing slicks use different compounds and completely different ratios than your tires... In my opinion, TireRack's example is nonsensical, thoroughly misleading, and potentially dangerous.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;em&gt;When you replace your tires, check the dates on each tire (embossed on the sidewalls) to make sure none of them are old stock.  Also make sure the model number and size on each tire matches all the other ones.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T03:46:14.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T03:46:14.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28435" CreationDate="2016-05-07T05:26:19.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago when I used to inspect vehicles for a living. There was one thing that would cause such nasty fumes after 30 minutes or so. It was over spray from the anti-rust coating that sometimes would end up on exhaust parts and cause pungent sulfurous stench when hot. If it were an exhaust leak it would noticed  a lot sooner and have a noise as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T05:26:19.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19267" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:10:06.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ECO mode is engaged on a Honda Civic the A/C won't be seriously cold. The Eco mode adjusts the A/C, the engine and transmission for maximum fuel economy. Disengage the ECO mode and A/C gets nice and chilly even at city speed. I own a 2012 Civic LX with 140,000km (87,000 miles) with no A/C issues whatsoever. The A/C system on a Honda Civic uses only .75Kg(1.65 lbs) of refrigerant. Overcharging the system will damage the compressor. A/C systems specify not only what type of refrigerant and how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T06:10:06.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:13:31.760" Score="12" ViewCount="104271" Body="&lt;p&gt;The corner of my rear bumper is chipped and cracked. I sanded it down, applied filler, undercoat and paint. It looks fine but I can see a little line where I masked off the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips for avoiding this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T04:20:30.960" Title="When spraying a part of a car, how do you avoid 'cut off lines'?" Tags="|paint|body-filler|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:26:43.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iridium is extremely hard. Plugs with Iridium last for a 120,000 miles with no loss in performance. I read somewhere that they can ignite lean mixtures when copper based plugs can't. Result better fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T06:26:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7417" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:56:58.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel rims are cheaper to replace than alloy wheels. Alloy wheels tend get damaged by the salt and can develop air leaks around the tire beads. Steel rims you can paint with tremclad type of paint to deal with the rust prior to mounting tires. Steel rims are also full rims which help protect the brakes from ice,snow and salt. Alloy rims don't offer the same level of protection to the brakes. Montreal potholes are more likely to damage the tires before the rim. I have bent the steel belt in 4 tires just from potholes. I have driven in Montreal for 4 decades and have seen it all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter below +7C, all season tires lose the ability for gripping on dry pavement. Winter tires above +7C will have same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T07:02:12.490" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T07:02:12.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2016-05-07T09:38:46.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work at Sears Automotive Center and the answer about aspect ratio was spot on. I had customers coming in all the time wanting to deviate from manufacturer specs, and they really didn't want to hear that improper tires size can damage their cars. When they would get an $1800.00 repair bill for differential damage. ...I would be forced to remind them that they didn't listen when we tried to warn them of what would happen. That's why they are called manufacturers specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17183" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T09:38:46.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2016-05-07T09:47:56.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for further elaboration, do you mean a line between your new coat of paint and the previous coat of paint? Is it possible you supply a picture please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the original paint of a vehicle fades and oxidises. Barring extreme cases, this process is usually not noticeable unless there is a new coat of paint to compare it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut-off lines you describe could possibly be due to the contrast between the fresh coat against the faded original coat. This effect may be emphasized if your original coat of paint uses a clear top-coat and you did not apply a new top-coat to your working area. If your vehicle is of earlier make and model, it is possible that your vehicle does not have a clear top-coat at all, but rather just a very thick base coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To diminish (or completely remove) the contrasting effect, you will need to cut and polish the working area and the area surrounding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, I recommend using a separate cutting and polishing compound as opposed to a mixture of the two, often seen in auto stores as 'cut 'n' polish'. New layers of paint and clear top-coat tend to be quite thick, and thus require a more abrasive compound to even out the differences between it and the original surrounding coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting compound leaves behind a dulling or hazing effect on a coat of paint, which pure polishing compound (NOT a glaze) repairs, glossing it along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can polish either by hand or by machine. Hand polishing can be time-consuming and can often lead to defects such as holograms on your working surface. DA (Dual Action) polishers are quite paint-safe and do not carry the risk of damaging the working surface or burning through it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I recommend hand-polishing. It may not be sensible to buy a machine polisher for just a spot-fix, as they do carry a &gt;$100 price-tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastEditorUserId="16988" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T11:30:50.563" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T11:30:50.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28734" CreationDate="2016-05-07T11:39:29.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite simply, no it is not safe. If a car manufacturers specifications say 5 studs, that's because they've done their homework on the forces involved. Think of the worst case: braking hard while turning sharply on a rough surface. The mass of the car, acting at an acute angle to the rim, comes down on the wheel lugs with a g-force proportional to the deceleration x mass. If the wheel is at the point where the two missing studs are aligned vertically, all this force is borne by the single lug left that side of the wheel's axle - a recipe for stripped threads, wobbling wheels and in a race: injuries or worse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 'decision' is lethal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In mathematical terms, the wheel now has 3/5 of the strength, with 5/3 of the load applied to each stud. Not safe at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T11:39:29.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29446" CreationDate="2016-05-07T11:57:04.527" Score="9" ViewCount="10973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mazda 3 sedan which I bought about a year ago.  Everything on the car was great, until the weather started to get hotter when the windows would sometimes take a moment to &quot;unstick&quot; if you tried to lower them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the car has after-market tinting on the windows (it was fitted prior to my purchasing the vehicle), and on a particularly hot day about three months ago, both of the rear windows just wouldn't go down any more.  I didn't have time to bother with it, but when idly pressing the button one cooler day, one of the rear windows gave a bit of a &lt;em&gt;&quot;pop!&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and let go.  It's been working just fine ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hear the electric motor &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to work when you press the button, and at night you can see that it's drawing power because the headlights dim slightly if you happen to be waiting at traffic lights.  I never hold the button down for more than a few seconds for fear of burning out the electric motor.  I've had a pretty concerted effort at trying to pull down on the window with my palms while pressing the button but to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain that the issue is that the heat has just caused the tinting to stick to the window seal.  Can anyone think of how I could get the window seal to &quot;unstick&quot; from the tinting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17185" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:44:24.863" Title="Unsticking a stuck rear electric window" Tags="|power-windows|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2016-05-07T12:08:28.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep my cars (Toyotas) for way over 10 years and over 100,000 miles, so my answer does not pertain to relatively new autos with low mileage.  With such  older vehicles, I take care with preventive maintenance.  With 50 years and millions of miles of driving, I have had 3 times when my travel has been stopped dead.  Two of those three were due to sticking calipers.  At first, my solution was to change the brake fluid every 7 - 8 years, minimizing water buildup that could contribute to rust in the calipers.  That was not good enough to keep me from having it happen again in another car.  So, now every 10 years I replace my calipers.  End of problem.  Good insurance to keep me from being stopped on the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17186" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T12:08:28.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29444" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:54:07.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the problem is the window motors are going bad. Most have a thermal switch in them (sort of like a resettable fuse) which will stop the motor from working when a heat threshold has been reached. There are several factors which cause this, including the grease thickening in the gears as it gets older. I've seen this in many different vehicles. During the cooler times, the thermal switch is not tripped so the window will still roll up and down. I realize replacement of the window motors is not a cheap thing, but would bet this will solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T22:44:24.863" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:44:24.863" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29444" CreationDate="2016-05-07T15:45:01.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull down on the window with open hands or a big suction cup while someone operates the window switch, once it unsticks roll the window down all the way, then liberally spray the window channel rubbers with a high quality Silicone Spray. Let the spray dry then roll the window up and down several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending how dry the channel rubbers are how many times you will have to repeat this process to keep the windows from sticking. Also this should become part of your annual car maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is tint glue oozing out from the edges of the tint, you will need to remove and replace the tint before you roll the window up tight again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T17:19:35.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:19:35.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T16:01:21.727" Score="7" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a fuse in my 2015 Honda Odyssey that is 0v when ignition is off. I thought the passenger side seat heater should be the one but I tested 12 V when ignition is off. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17188" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T21:39:30.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T21:39:30.227" Title="Seat heater fuse at 12V even when ignition is off?" Tags="|honda|fuse|odyssey|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29448" CreationDate="2016-05-07T16:29:42.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three fuses for the seat heater system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Passenger fuse box:  Fuse 20, 7.5 amp. Supplies Seat heater control unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Passenger fuse box:  Fuse 5, 15 amp. Supplies relay power pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Driver side fuse box: Fuse 26, 7.5 amp. Supplies to relay control coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have power key off, some do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:29:42.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:03:53.110" Score="4" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently performed a cylinder leakdown test searching for a cause for oil loss. On 5/6 cylinders, I pumped it up to 90 psi on the left gauge and the right gauge was between 75-80. Only 1/6 wouldn't go past 65. I put my hand on the intake for that cylinder on the plenum and didn't notice and leaks, then put my hand on the exhaust pipe and there was maybe a very low flow. The air may have been going past the cylinder rings and into the crankcase but I'm not sure how to check that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How bad is a 30% leak, especially if it's on the exhaust side ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastEditorUserId="2618" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T17:21:25.810" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T23:01:58.977" Title="How bad is 30% cylinder leak?" Tags="|leak|cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T18:02:06.213" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the process of buying a used car, I feel I need to know what kind of service a car should have had prior to the purchase and will have to have after the purchase. I'm looking for a VW Touran, Opel Zafira or Ford S-Max&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding information about when what needs to be checked and/or replaced on cars is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about finding out when these cars (VW Touran, Opel Zafira and Ford S-Max) should have received what service and what replacements in order to spot previous owners whom have neglected their cars and thus, avoid buying their car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T23:37:19.070" Title="Service intervals of different cars" Tags="|ford|vw|opel|service|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T19:58:33.030" Score="5" ViewCount="3341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Transporter T5 2007 with 2.5 TDi BNZ engine. I have the following fault code (among many):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;p1503 Generator Terminal DF (Load signal) Signal Improbable&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fault code gets repeated logged after about 5 minutes of driving at the same time as the ASR light comes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On SEATS (Also VAG group), apparently this is often a broken wire in the alternator loom, but I cannot find any information for VW T5s for this fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please can any one advise what might cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17192" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T19:58:33.030" Title="VW Transporter T5 - p1503 Generator Terminal DF (Load signal) Signal Improbable" Tags="|vw|alternator|wiring|generator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-10-22T02:19:38.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T22:46:05.303" Score="7" ViewCount="7221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I filled my radiator with water and it is pouring right back out of the rear of engine as fast as i fill. It seems to be near or behind the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/27qV-ufMsQc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/27qV-ufMsQc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find the source of the leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17193" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T11:12:45.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T11:12:45.987" Title="Coolant pouring out from under 1998 GMC Yukon as fast as i put in" Tags="|coolant|leak|gmc|yukon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29451" CreationDate="2016-05-07T23:01:58.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;put my hand on the exhaust pipe and there was maybe a very low flow.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have found your problem, there should be 0 flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T23:01:58.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29454" CreationDate="2016-05-07T23:43:04.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three places I can think the water would be flowing out of from the back area of the engine. The engine in your Yukon should be the GenI Small Block Chevrolet (SBC) engine (I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; they started putting LSx motors in them in 1999). The SBC has water passages through the intake manifold at the front and back of the engine. If one of these passages had an issue with the intake manifold gasket, it would leak off the back of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMVEC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMVEC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second place to look for is in the side of the block where the freeze plugs are at. If one of these has corroded through, it would be dumping coolant like nobody's business. (The block in the picture doesn't have plugs in it yet, but there'll be some there before it gets used!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4iat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4iat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last place, and most likely is another freeze plug, but at the back of the engine. This would be inside of the bell housing of the transmission. You'd see it coming out the bottom of the torque converter dust cover. (The plug in the center of the picture is there to plug up the hole where the cam goes; no coolant there.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LbOWN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LbOWN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T23:43:04.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29458" CreationDate="2016-05-08T00:51:07.350" Score="4" ViewCount="2052" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1983 Mercedes 380SL seems to be running hotter than I like. It settles down at right at 100 C by the instrument panel temp gauge after running at highway speed for 10 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first got the car, it had a bum O2 sensor that made it run rich, but on the highway it'd run about 90 C. After I fixed the O2 sensor, it started running hotter. I replaced the thermostat (and the water pump, as a result), with the one called out in the factory service manual. That specification is for a thermostat that starts opening at 84 C and is fully open at 99 C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the cooling system power-flushed and refilled a few days ago. Aside from that, about the only thing left to try is servicing the radiator. That'll be all kinds of no fun, since when I tried removing it last year while I had the water pump out, it wouldn't budge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no oil in the coolant, or vice versa, and no white smoke out the tailpipe. I'm pretty sure everything's intact. It's just running hot. The question is: is that too hot? Or just right? Or hot but acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17194" LastActivityDate="2020-02-29T00:13:33.723" Title="Proper operating temp for a 1983 Mercedes 380SL?" Tags="|cooling-system|mercedes-benz|temperature|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29457" CreationDate="2016-05-08T00:59:16.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope that sounds about perfect. Remember there is a spring on the radiator cap that keeps the engine coolant pressure to around 13 PSI for most manufacturers.  Water doesn't boil until around 242°F (117° C) at that pressure.  The manufacturers want the water to stay as a liquid because that helps the radiator work better.  (Liquid to vapor transfers heat MUCH better than vapor to vapor in a heat exchanger.)   I wouldn't worry until the heat got up to 112 to 115°C numbers..  I would think for your car, 84°C to 107°C pretty normal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing if you see that the temperature NEVER EVER gets above 100°C that could be a big problem.  It means your radiator cap is probably not sealing well, and should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a safety reminder, because the coolant cap is pressurized you never want to open the cap when the engine is hot.  If the temperature of the coolant is greater than 100°C (212°F) and you open the cap, all the coolant in the car will immediately flash from liquid to steam. That is very very dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T00:59:16.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T02:33:26.213" Score="5" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;91 Caprice - l am having problems on acceleration, loss of power, backfiring, check engine light, stalling. Had to repair shop three times and they have not fixed it. Is there a scanner that can diagnose the problem? It is 8 cylinder, 5.0 engine 305.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17195" LastEditorUserId="17195" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T12:03:41.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T18:12:42.707" Title="No Acceleration, loss of power, backfiring, CEL, stalling" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|cel|stall|caprice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29461" CreationDate="2016-05-08T07:11:45.137" Score="13" ViewCount="34864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cleaned much of my engine compartment with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abro.com/pd-320.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abro Heavy Duty Degreaser&lt;/a&gt;, and I noticed that on certain metal parts like the valve cover, thermostat housing and transmission housing a white powder has formed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcAqv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcAqv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the degreaser on for maybe 30 seconds to a minute, and in some cases agitated it with a brush, then pretty thouroghly rinsed it with a water hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This powder won't blow off, but it rubs off pretty easily with my finger as can be seen in the picture.  This did not occur with other metal parts such as the engine block, and various metal pipes and connectors, nor did it happen on hoses or painted parts.  I think the parts it did happen on may all be made of aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why did this happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I easily clean this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I prevent this from happening in the future when I clean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T06:03:41.277" Title="Why has white powder formed on metal parts after cleaning with degreaser and what can I do about it?" Tags="|cleaning|degreaser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29460" CreationDate="2016-05-08T10:32:28.347" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, that is corrosion. You are correct in your assumption that the Valve Cover is certainly cast aluminum. Aluminum can be damaged by many de-greasers that are too aggressive. This happens due to a chemical reaction by the cleaner with aluminum parts. Steel or painted parts will not have this oxidation occur. Usually you can avoid this by thoroughly rising or washing the parts provided that the cleaner is not so aggressive that it is etching the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most notably, oven cleaners/degreasers contain Sodium Hydroxide which actively eats aluminum surfaces unless deactivated relatively quickly by a thorough washing or rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure to do so results in this oxidation occurring once it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to clean this is with a light dishwashing detergent and a stiff nylon bristle brush. More stubborn areas may need a more aggressive cleaner, however since you mentioned it comes off with a touch, it's likely easily removed with just some mild agitation and elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preventing it from happening going forward, avoid using harsh chemicals on your Aluminum. Find Aluminum safe degreasers, or just thoroughly rinse them before they dry out. Never bake out degreaser on aluminum parts. Many degreasers instruct you to work on a warm motor, this is fine for steel parts, but with Aluminum, you should only clean it when it's cool and make sure to rinse it thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastEditorUserId="16773" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T13:02:30.417" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T13:02:30.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29459" CreationDate="2016-05-08T10:37:41.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are scanners that will talk to OBD1 computers, but most shops (I would guess) don't have the equipment anymore. I got rid of my OBD1 equipment last year. I've seen ≤ 2 cars that required me to use it in the past 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a GM dealer would still have the equipment. You would have to call around and ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By jumping pin A to pin B on the ALDL the check engine light will flash codes for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vzre.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vzre.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A list of codes for an F Vin 5.0 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/90-91_50f/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/90-91_50f/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13  Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 60 seconds. Engine was at normal operating temperature and had been running for at least 2 minutes after start with a throttle angle above 5%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;14  Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 266° F for 3 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;15  Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -38° F for 3 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;21  TPS voltage was above 2.5 volts for 3 seconds when the MAP sensor signal showed manifold vacuum to be 15 pounds or more, or TPS was above 4.8 volts at anytime.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22  TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 2 seconds when the engine was running.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;23  Manifold air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature below 22° F after the engine has been running for 5 minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;24  When engine speed was between 1400 and 3600 RPM and throttle position angle was less than 2% for at least 4 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;25  Manifold air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature over 302° F for 2 seconds after the engine has been running for 2 minutes and vehicle speed was greater than 5 MPH.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;32  EGR open command did not change the fuel mixture when the command was given during off idle operation. EGR opening should cause the mixture to be slightly richer because of the low oxygen content of exhaust gas.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;33  MAP sensor signal voltage was too high (low vacuum) for 5 seconds when throttle opening was under 4%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;34  MAP sensor voltage was too low (high vacuum) when engine speed was over 1200 RPM, or when TPS was over 21% when engine speed was over 1200 RPM.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;41  Faulty or incorrect MEM-CAL.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;42  The EST signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;43  Knock sensor signal was above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for 0.5 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;44  Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.2 volts for 50 seconds of closed loop operation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;45  Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.7 volts for 50 seconds with a throttle angle above 2%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;51  MEM-CAL error.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;52  CALPAK error.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;53  ECM sees a battery voltage of more than 17.1 volts for 2 seconds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;54  Fuel pump voltage was less than 2 volts for 1.5 seconds since the last reference pulse was received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T18:12:42.707" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T18:12:42.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29465" CreationDate="2016-05-08T15:36:31.853" Score="4" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29460/why-has-white-powder-formed-on-metal-parts-after-cleaning-with-degreaser-and-wha#comment48664_29461&quot;&gt;comment to my question regarding white powder&lt;/a&gt; which had formed on aluminum parts after cleaning them with heavy duty degreaser, @Paulster2 mentioned a process called powder coating which would prevent future corrosion and make future cleaning easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this powder coating, and how may it be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T17:34:15.777" Title="What is powder coating and how do you do it?" Tags="|maintenance|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29471" CreationDate="2016-05-08T16:37:23.137" Score="4" ViewCount="10364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started smelling ammonia when a drive.  What can be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did recently changed the exhaust pipe.  I drive infinity G35. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17202" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T17:40:28.720" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T20:15:20.737" Title="Smell of Ammonia when driving. What can be the reason?" Tags="|exhaust|smell|infiniti|g35|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29463" CreationDate="2016-05-08T17:34:15.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply speaking, a colored plastic powder is applied to the parts with an airgun. The parts are then heated until the powder melts and forms a smooth (up to high glossy) surface. Once cooled down, you have a nice, hard coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The powder may also be a thermosetting polymer, i.e. it does not only melt above a certain temperature, but also cures. When heating the parts again, the coating doesn't melt any more and stays solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The powder is electrically charged by the airgun, and a high voltage is applied between airgun and parts. This makes most of the powder fly to the parts and stick at their surface, and only little waste on the floor. Even the wasted powder can be recycled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only metal can be coated by powder coating, and the preparation includes careful removal of any corrosion by sand blasting. For aluminum / alloy,  glass bead blasting is better since sand give a too rough surface. Sometimes, chemical treatment is used to increase corrosion protection and / or adhesion of the coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of powder coating is that it's really fast and cheap, needs just one layer (no primer, filler, color, finish), builds rather thick layers (&gt;100µm), can fill small scratchs, withstands most chemicals and is mechanically more resistant than most other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since powder coating is really, really cheap, while the equipment is expensive, I would recommend to find a company to do this for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I got both alloy rims of my scooter coated for 10-20€, when I brought them blasted, which cost another 10-20€. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; also has a large article about powder coating!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T17:34:15.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T17:56:37.123" Score="8" ViewCount="49428" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems I have to replace the  oil seal at the pulley-side of my crankshaft. &#xA;According to the technical manual of my car, the central screw should be torqued with 120-145Nm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much torque is needed to crank my motor, but I guess that 120-145Nm is enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, how do I prevent it from cranking?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technical manual recommends several special tools for many different tasks, but there is no tool for this purpose. I don't have an impact wrench, and this should usually not be used to torque a screw to a given value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T23:47:17.917" Title="How to lock crank shaft while torquing central screw?" Tags="|torque|crankshaft|screw|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29466" CreationDate="2016-05-08T18:07:18.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different ways I can think of to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the vehicle has a manual shift transmission, put the transmission into the highest gear, then set the parking brake. The torque provided through the drivetrain will be more than enough to counteract the torque put on the crank hub bolt. If it's a front wheel drive, have someone stand on the brake pedal, or wedge something onto the brake pedal to hold the front rotors still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way, if it's not a manual shift tranny, is to take the starter out. Then using a long, stout, flat tip screwdriver, find purchase against the starter ring teeth. This obviously requires a friend to hold it in place, but I've found works rather well if you can find purchase. If you cannot find purchase, you may be able to wedge something into the teeth to do the same ... just remember, you have to take it out after you get through torquing the bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old serpentine belt, you can wrap it around the crank shaft pulley, grabbing it tight with a pair of Vise-Grips right at the pulley. Then string the other end over another pulley (not the tensioner pulley), grasping that side with another pair of Vise-Grips. As long as the belt isn't completely worn out and you can get a good enough grip with the Vise-Grips, this will hold it for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I came up with this diagram to help you with understanding the above reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXKOr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXKOr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue arrows are the pinch points with the red line being the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these don't work or you cannot get them to work, maybe they will lead you to another way you can get it to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T19:17:52.703" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T19:17:52.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T18:22:32.587" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be a metallic water-based paint with color code ESB-MOSB, Mayerling green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am trying to find out is if I can find the same color tone but just not as water-based, what would the color code then be called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not something I know, but assume that the difference between water-based and not water-based automatic gives a shade color difference, so if that's the case, what color code is the closest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhYAO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhYAO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17203" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T18:22:32.587" Title="Paint color code between metallic water based and not water-based (Mayerling Green)" Tags="|old-cars|chassis-paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29466" CreationDate="2016-05-08T20:07:58.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I have used for years, Snap-On (Blue-Point) adjustable joint pliers, the large variety. Pn HL120P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually leave the crank pulley on and use that to grip with pliers, most crank pulleys neck down to a smaller diameter than the harmonic balancer, since the pliers only go to about 8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is hard to hold the pliers on bolts torqued over 175 ftlbs, so i let the pliers turn with the crank and let them hit the frame or steering to help hold the pliers, this way I can get more muscle on the bolt with my break over bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method to remove the bolt, that works on any engine that turns clockwise (looking at it from the front) (not some Honda's) is to use a long breaker bar, put it on the bolt and rotate the crank clockwise to the left side of the engine and let the beaker bar hit the frame or steering, hold it there while some one taps the starter, this will break it loose. I know it sounds scary but I have done it for years without anything bad happening, just have someone you trust on the ignition key that knows how to tap the starter in short bursts, best to disconnect the ignition system before tapping the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HDZkL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HDZkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best solution &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/piston-stops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is a Piston stop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q46Pa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q46Pa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T23:47:17.917" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T23:47:17.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29464" CreationDate="2016-05-08T20:15:20.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you changed the cabin filters lately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black mold can smell like Urine-Ammonia, this mold can also grow on the ac evaporator coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the cabin filters and check for mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this it could be a rich running engine that causes the catalytic converter to put out strong odors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T20:15:20.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29466" CreationDate="2016-05-08T20:38:03.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old trick for this is to remove a spark plug, then feed a length of string into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, leaving enough string hanging out to pull it all out when done.  The string won't compress, so stops the motor from turning, allowing you to tighten the crankshaft bolt.  When you're done, remove the string by pulling it back out the hole, and re-install the spark plug.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/wgl8OSG2WX4&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. (Not my video)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T21:21:45.553" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T21:21:45.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29475" CreationDate="2016-05-08T20:39:41.580" Score="8" ViewCount="4551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on replacing a leaky section of brake line for the rear driver side wheel on my 2004 Hyundai Getz 1.3 Gsi. The section of brake hose is relatively short, with one end connected to the wheel and the other connected to a fitting that then connects to some flexible hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on replacing the line with the equivalent sized copper pipe. However, I'm unsure how the brake line is connected to the fittings on either end. What type of fitting is this? Can it be reused? What tools/replacement parts are needed to make the connections? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of photos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avokx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avokx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;connection to flexible hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6OKe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6OKe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;connection to wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3k92d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3k92d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leaky section at the clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3072" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T21:10:53.113" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T20:51:26.717" Title="How do brake lines connect to their respective fittings?" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|leak|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T23:35:00.257" Score="6" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2013 VW Jetta SE with a 5-speed manual trans. I'm new to Volkswagen, and I found this part in my glovebox. Does anyone know what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e61kB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e61kB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T23:57:24.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T15:11:14.087" Title="Jetta Part Identification" Tags="|vw|part-identification|parts|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29473" CreationDate="2016-05-09T00:03:45.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting them to break loose is the biggest challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a good penetrate, soak them several times over 3-4 days, use high quality brake line wrenches to turn the nuts to prevent rounding the brake line nuts, as they are soft steel. Cheap brake line wrenches will round the nuts, &lt;strong&gt;buy good quality wrenches&lt;/strong&gt; of the proper size, metric or american.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a wrench on the other side to help hold the line from twisting when using the brake line wrench on the nut side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nut does not turn before they round, you will have to use a propane or oxy-acetelene torch to heat the nut very hot, let it cool and heat it again, do this several times to heat cycle the nut then re soak with penetrate in between cylces, then it should turn without rounding the nut. Heat may damage the flex line but may be the only way to break the nut loose, in this case replace the flex line, a casualty of war. Once the old line is off determine which flare type you have, nut type and line diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you remove it you will have to buy some &lt;strong&gt;steel&lt;/strong&gt; (not copper) brake line of proper diameter and cut to length with a steel tubing cutter, then slide the new nuts on first, then do a proper flare on both ends of the line, you will need to buy a brake line flaring tool, &lt;strong&gt;follow the instructions that come with the tool carefully&lt;/strong&gt;. Steel brake line is fairly flexible but will kink if not careful when bending,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts stores here in the usa sell variable lengths of different diameter brake lines that are pre-flared with nuts included, just cut the length you need and reuse the nuts and re-flare as needed. You need to determine the diameter of the old line and type of flare nut needed. Sometimes the pre flared lengths have the correct nuts, sometimes they don't, nuts may have different thread pitches-diameters for the same line size, if you do not damage the old nuts they can be re-used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of brake flares, inverted double flare (most common) and bubble flare.&#xA;To do a bubble flare you use the double flare tool but skip the last procedure that inverts the flare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake line flaring tool kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rY34.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rY34.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubble flare, which can be done during the second step of double falring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/56osM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/56osM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the three steps of the double flare, to bubble flare you skip step three, it takes some practice to do either flare correctly, buy extra line to practice until you are confident you have a good flare quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOMoS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOMoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High Quality Brake line wrenches for best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6iAL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6iAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T23:59:53.773" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T23:59:53.773" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29473" CreationDate="2016-05-09T00:08:53.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is just as @Ben stated ... it will have a double inverted flare with metric threads. Look it up online and find the exact part (brake line) to match. It will save you a bunch of time and a whole lot of agony. I'd look it up for you, but the Getz was not marketed in the US as any model. Most manufacturers sell the individual, pre-bent brake lines. You can probably find one at your Hyundai dealership fairly easily. If you don't have any tube bending experience, I highly recommend you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll have to do, though, is clean off all of the undercoating which is on the connections prior to trying to disconnect anything. It &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; come off with a stiff wire brush. It looks as though it was thrown on there on both ends of the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking the lines apart, &lt;em&gt;always use two wrenches&lt;/em&gt; or you'll never get it apart. You may need a line wrench on both sides, as usually a regular open end of a combination (spanner) wrench has has too much give in it and will strip off the points on the connector. Use the same two wrenches to put it back together. If you don't use two wrenches, you'll end up twisting the tubing instead of breaking it free. At the other end where it enters the wheel cylinder, you'll only need one wrench, but probably still will need a line wrench to get it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When putting it back together, ensure the lines are square (or in line) with each other, or you run the risk of cross-threading the connection, then it will never seal. If it doesn't go together easily, you need to back it out and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T00:08:53.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29452" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:30:19.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding information on the service required: call a dealer and ask them. Look online at forums. Etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to tell if it's been neglected, that's the more important part of your question IMO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell a lot from the car physically, more so in my experience than from service records.  Service records are only as useful as the record keeper, and in my experience, more often than not they just don't exist.  You'll preclude a lot of good cars (and could possibly be misled into a bad car) by relying service records alone.  A lot of good, well-maintained cars might not have paperwork - some owners just don't keep it.  Also, it's easy to &quot;loose&quot; records too, and presenting just the ones that make the car look good can be misleading.  (What do you mean I forgot to include the records for the three separate head gasket replacement jobs?...I mean no, I never had a problem with head gaskets before...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you learn to look the car over physically, you'll be able to tell pretty quickly whether or not the car was well generally well maintained or neglected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars are going to require the same basic service at similar intervals.  Oil, air filters, spark plugs, timing belt, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, etc.  Specialty vehicles, rare or exotic vehicles, etc. may have different needs - see if you can find a forum with specifics on what to look for in those cases. But generally you can tell pretty quickly whether or not it's been well maintained just by looking at the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check fluid levels: brake fluid, oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, etc -  are they all at the proper level? If no, that's a bad sign - most shops top fluids up whenever you bring in for service, and DIY owners should be on top of this stuff as well. Being one of the simplest things to do, if fluids are not filled to the right level, that's generally a bad sign.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check dip-sticks:  wipe on a clean white cloth or paper towel and look at color.  Motor oil should be gold to brown in color, transmission fluid should be red to brown (neither should be jet black!).  They should be clean and translucent, and there shouldn't be metal particles in either.  Smell it!! A burnt smell or smell of gasoline or antifreeze could indicate internal engine problems.  If these fluids are clean, smell okay, and are at the proper level, that's a good sign.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant:  comes in a variety of colors, from green to orange to red.  It should be translucent, and have a sweetish aroma.  There should not be any particles.  If you see metallic particles or thick sludgy stuff that's a bad sign - probably had a leak and some previous owner used a stop-leak product. That stuff is bad news and just masks a bigger problem.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes: look at the rotors and feel them by running up/down them with a fingernail - there shouldn't be heavy scoring or deep gouges.  Look at the pads (as best you can) - they should have 2-3mm or more material thickness and should be worn evenly (e.g. Not heavily tapered in one direction or another).  Surface rust is common, especially if the car is not being driven daily, so don't worry about rust too much.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air filters:  a big indicator for me usually. Many dealers and curb-stoners are smart enough to change oil and tranni fluid if its dirty, but many overlook these elements.  Look at the engine air filter; if its filthy and totally clogged, that's a bad sign.  Some dirt is normal - the filters job is to trap dirt - but if it looks like an old dirty bird's nest and has a thick layer of dirt like a 1/4&quot; thick - that's a very bad sign.  If you can get to it easily, and the owner will let you, check the cabin air filter.  This is a regular maintenance item, but one often overlooked, and this can say a lot about general maintenance of the vehicle. Check YouTube for how to change cabin air filter for the make/model/year of the car and you should find a video on how to replace it - look that up before you go check the car out so you know how to get to it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaks:  look for leaks. Power steering hoses, valve covers, head gaskets, etc.  are common places for leaks.  After test driving, park the car on clean concrete and do a thorough walk around.  Take 10-15 minutes to look the car over in and out, and during this time look for any leaks and any new spots forming on the concrete after sitting for 10 minutes or so.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires:  bring an air pressure gage - are the tires all inflated properly? Are they at similar pressures?  Are they all matching brands with similar wear? Is the wear pattern fairly consistent, or is it concentrated on one area of the tires. Proper tire maintenance including air pressure and rotation is a good indicator of general maintenance habits. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;timing belt sticker:  on higher mileage cars (e.g. 100k or more miles) they should have had the timing belt changed (if equipped - timing chains are different story, you can google this info for a car). This is typically done by a shop and there should be a sticker somewhere in the engine bay that has date and mileage it was done at.  If there is no sticker, ask the owner about it. On many cars it's not a hard DIY thing to do, so if the owner says he did it personally, ask a few questions and try feel out whether he knows what he's talking about or not and if he's telling the truth. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;serpentine belts: AKA accessory belt.  These are the visible belts that run around all the pumps and doodads in the front of the engine.  Look at them. Touch them.  They should be clean and black in color, they should have some flex if you try to twist them about their own axis, and they should not have any cracks or missing teeth.      If they are old, discolored and dry-rotted, or have many cracks or missing teeth, that is a bad sign.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;joints:  ball joints, cv's, tie-rod ends, steering knuckles, etc.  anywhere you see a zirk fitting! Is there grease all over these things, or are they dry as a bone?  Nobody likes a dry socket - especially not your car.  Greasy joints are happy joints and a dry joint is usually an indicator of poor general maintenance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always test-drive the car, and feel it out.  Does it run smooth and ride nice? Do you notice any problems and strange sounds or vibrations? If so, ask the owner about them and how long they've been like that and why they haven't been fixed prior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, be prepared to walk away.  Always. &#xA;I remember going to look at a car and when I looked at the brake fluid reservoir it was empty. Like totally empty. Bone dry. And for how long? Who knows.  So I looked under the car and found a very obvious slow brake fluid leak almost immediately.  I let the owner know about it; he was a younger guy and after informing him and talking to him for five minutes I could tell he was totally clueless about maintenance. It was obvious he didn't know anything about the car and equally obvious he wasn't taking the car in for service, yet he said he had owned it for many years, meaning it was probably pretty well neglected.  I walked away from that one, but it was a little scary; had I not told him about the leak, who knows how long he would have kept driving it obliviously, until one day he went to hit the brakes and didn't have any!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: this answer was an attempt to provide some guidance on what to look for in determining a vehicle's general maintenance history without records, not an attempt to document everything to look for or how to perform a thorough mechanical inspection.  Service records can be nice to have, but papers are just papers - they are nothing more.  The car itself will usually tell you everything you need to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T13:57:31.240" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:57:31.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29927" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:56:32.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a Toyota Camry 2007 and one of the front brake bleeder screws is rusted and stuck badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many videos on YouTube that suggest the use of torch and apply excess heat to the caliper area around the bleeder screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this car model the the bleeder screw is close to the brake fluid hose I am I am concerned about possible damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poGfc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poGfc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to consult here see if the torch technique is too extreme?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any spray better that WD40 for this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T05:34:35.407" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T10:15:43.327" Title="Toyota Camry 2007: The Brake Bleeder Screw is rusted and stuck" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29478" CreationDate="2016-05-09T04:01:01.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem on a 2006 Toyota Camry. In my particular case, the problem was made worse because the last person to have bled the brakes over-tightened the valve so far that he or she rounded the nut portion of the bleeder valve.  I couldn't get a wrench on it reliably as a result.  &lt;strong&gt;Never&lt;/strong&gt; use a 12-sided box wrench or gear wrench or open wrench on a brake valve.  I use a good quality 6-sided box wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I first made sure I purchased replacement bleeder valves and then used a locking wrench (Vice-grip) and used brute force to completely remove the bleeder valve and replace it with a new one.  Fortunately, the caliper itself was not damaged by the previous gorilla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, heat was not necessary, but if it had been, I'd have placed a heat shield between the brake line and valve and aimed the flame away from the brake line and toward the brake valve to the extent possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubt about being able to do so successfully, I'd recommend simply removing the line and removing the whole brake assembly from the wheel until you can loosen the valve.  This will, of course, introduce air into the system, but you were going to bleed the brakes anyway, and it's preferable to having to &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; replace a singed brake line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T04:01:01.460" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29484" CreationDate="2016-05-09T04:08:56.853" Score="6" ViewCount="16248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/5261/12321&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; I know that the consequences are less security and low performance. But I would like to know if there is anything else and also explain those two issues and why do they happen more precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this affect the way the car reacts when braking? Does an older tire take longer distance to brake? Do the wheels block &quot;easily&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T21:34:18.573" Title="What are the consequences of using an expired tire?" Tags="|tires|performance|security|replacements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2016-05-09T06:30:20.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valves rotate slowly to scrape off the unburnt fuel particles settled on the valve seat. This is very much necessary when engine uses heavy fuel oil. Moreover rotating  ensures that valves have uniform wear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17210" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T06:30:20.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29483" CreationDate="2016-05-09T06:41:47.383" Score="0" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to understand both of these for a while. While I kind of understand them for some reason I feel like I'm missing the point. Simple explanations leave me confused and longer explanation leave me feeling dumb, as I don't study physic or calculus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can you give a decently vast but at the same time simple explanation? My understand standing is horsepower ( which is 33,000 ft-lb ) is the amount of work your car can do in a minute so if my car have a max of 690 horsepower, that's how much force my car can lift and keep moving, and torque is the same but with how much force is needed to get all the compounds moving inside the engine so if its 400 torque then that's how much force is needed to get the vehicle moving and after it moves the horsepower pick up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I explained it right or not but either way I'm still not fully understand, I have done research for a few day but still not understand.I know they may be simple and I should get it but I don't know if my idea is right or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17211" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:41:52.370" Title="Please explain Horsepower and Torque" Tags="|torque|horsepower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-09T12:58:08.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29482" CreationDate="2016-05-09T09:23:55.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are missing is the concept of rotational speed. This is required to fully understand the relationship between horsepower and torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll start with the concept of torque. &lt;strong&gt;Torque&lt;/strong&gt; is simply defined as the &lt;strong&gt;rotational force&lt;/strong&gt; of an object on an &lt;strong&gt;axis&lt;/strong&gt;. This is easily calculated as T = R x F, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; = Torque&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt; = Position Vector (Essentially the distance from origin point to where force is being applied)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F&lt;/strong&gt; = Force Vector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Angular velocity&lt;/strong&gt; is simply the rotational speed of of an object on its axis and is measured by rotational distance over time, such as radians or degrees per second. &lt;strong&gt;RPM (Revolutions per minute)&lt;/strong&gt; is a unit of measurement of how many &lt;strong&gt;full revolutions&lt;/strong&gt; (360 degrees) an object makes over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Horsepower&lt;/strong&gt; is an imperial unit of measurement regarding &lt;strong&gt;power&lt;/strong&gt;. It is described as 550 ft-lbs per second, or 33,000 per minute to equal 1 horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's talk about horsepower and it's relationship to torque and angular velocity(in the form of revolutions per minute), relative to automotives. &lt;strong&gt;Given that power is constant, torque and revolutions per minute will always be inversely proportional.&lt;/strong&gt; You either have high torque and low RPMs, or low torque and high RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be defined as P = (T * RPM) / 5252, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; = Power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; = Torque&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RPM&lt;/strong&gt; = Revolutions per minute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's test this out with a few examples. Say your car outputs &lt;strong&gt;100 horsepower&lt;/strong&gt; at &lt;strong&gt;4000 rpm&lt;/strong&gt;. Let's to a little bit of basic algebra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 = (T * 4000) / 5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 * 5252 = T * 4000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(100 * 5252) / 4000 = T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque = 131.3ft-lbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's say that the vehicle is creating &lt;strong&gt;100 horsepower&lt;/strong&gt; at &lt;strong&gt;200 rpm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 = (T * 200) / 5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 * 5252 - T * 200&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(100 * 5252) / 200 = T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque = 2,626ft-lbs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how between both equations, when the RPM figure is low, the torque figure is quite large, while when the RPM figure is high, the torque is quite low, even though both instances, 100 horsepower is produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason we divide by 5252 in this equation is because at 5252 RPM, 1ft-lb of torque is equal to 1 HP. In a more technical term, it is the rounded value of 33,000ft-lb/min divided by 2π rad/rev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With all this in mind, let's talk about the real world, where power is not a constant value in a vehicle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a standstill, your vehicle requires relatively massive amounts of torque to get it moving. This is due to your RPM being at idle-speed (roughly 600-1000, depending on the car) and requiring more turning force to begin moving the wheels. &lt;strong&gt;Remember, low RPM means proportionately high torque.&lt;/strong&gt; The more torque your vehicle can produce, the faster you will start accelerating. if you look over the previous equations, you will understand why this is the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As vehicle speed picks up and so does rotational speed, &lt;strong&gt;torque gains become proportionately low&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;This does not mean that as you go faster, your torque figure drops or that once you produce more torque, you move slower. Both these figures will rise higher and higher until max output is reached. It just means that when looking at torque, RPMs and horsepower, &lt;strong&gt;more effort is required to move from standstill than to maintain a high vehicle speed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16988" LastEditorUserId="16988" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T10:41:52.370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T10:41:52.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29480" CreationDate="2016-05-09T09:33:30.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes, yes and yes. BUT: A tire doesn't have an expiry date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for all three points is that the rubber gets harder over time and looses its grip / traction, especially on wet ground.&#xA;Keep in mind grip is not only important for acceleration and braking, but it also keeps the car on the street in curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber not only gets harder, but also more brittle, and get this little cracks, which indicate an old tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRVmu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRVmu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these cracks are usually only at the surface and don't build an additional risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other question, it is stated that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tires have expiry dates&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but this &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; doesn't mean there's a fixed date after which they are not allowed to be used any more. It merely means that life time of a tire is limited and there will be a time when you better change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, there are laws limiting the maximum age of tires. In Germany, there is a single case: A trailer usually has a general speed limit of 80km/h, but some have 100km/h. Those need tires younger than 6 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.continental-tires.com/car/technology/tire-knowledge/lex-1-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manufacturers&lt;/a&gt; say tires should be replaced latest after 10 years, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=138&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other recommendations start at 6 years&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's quite interesting is that a tire doesn't start to age at its production day. Aging happens when a tire is inflated,  exposed chemicals (petrol puddle at the gas station, ozone, oxygen, ...), sunlight and heat and when the tire is mechanically stressed. Or in short: When it's used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new tire stored uninflated, cool, dry and dark can remain as good as new for up to five years. &#xA;(But which tires are stored for 5 years before first use?)&#xA;I didn't find an english reference for this claim, but my last link at least supports this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T09:33:30.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T11:37:58.543" Score="6" ViewCount="12581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a car (2008 Honda CR-V w/ 90k miles) that had a medium amount of vibration in the car (the vibrations are usually felt in the steering wheel as well). The tires that were on it were worn and out of balance and I thought that getting new tires would solve the vibrations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got new tires, and the vibration is still there. I think I narrowed the problem down to the CV joints, but I want to see if everyone agrees. The car starts vibrating around 50 mph and it gets worse the faster you go. The steering wheel vibrates back and forth very bad at 70+.  I noticed that when I had the car in cruise at 75 and let off the gas, the vibration would mostly go away which is why I am thinking the CV joints. There is no squeaking, and the vibration will intermittently stop for 30 seconds every once in a while, so I ruled the wheel bearings out. I also pushed and pulled the top and bottom of the tire and did not feel any loose play which leads me to believe the wheel bearings are fine. I pushed and pulled the sides of the tires to feel for loose play on the tie rods, but I don't think I felt anything (it was hard to distinguish loose play from moving the steering wheel back and forth). I know there are a few other things that could cause the problem, but I can't imagine the the other ball joints could cause this much vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not an obvious tear or leak on the boots of the CV joints, but I noticed the inner joint boots were much more greasy than the outer joint boots (this may have been cause by other oils in the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recap, the vibration is felt in the entire car, and it is the worst on the steering wheel (back and forth vibration). It is usually while &quot;cruising&quot; at higher speeds or accelerating to that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17214" LastEditorUserId="17214" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T11:52:02.203" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T13:27:23.780" Title="There is vibration in car (2008 Honda CR-V). Getting new tires did not solve the problem" Tags="|vibration|cv-joint|wheel-bearing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29485" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:27:23.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father had the exact same problem that you describe on his 2007 Honda CR-V and it turned out to be a drive shaft.  Apparently they fail quite regularly on this model.  Replacing the shaft resolved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T13:27:23.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:54:14.717" Score="5" ViewCount="2091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Citroen C3 and all passenger doors will not open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reset the immobolizer, pressed the lock buttons inside the car including child locks button, replaced the driver door central locking motor, but still no response. The lights flash when the fob buttons are pressed to open and lock as they should and I can hear the noise as if the central locking is working but they still will not open from inside or outside. I can only open the drivers door with the key&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can anyone explain howto fix this issue?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17217" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T20:02:04.543" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:02:04.543" Title="Citroen C3 - Passenger Doors Fail to Open" Tags="|troubleshooting|citroen|central-locking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T14:33:20.763" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not strictly the gas cap...mechanic cannot diagnose the problem.  I am the original owner, vehicle has 100 K in excellent condition except for this and the air conditioning also just went out (mechanic doesn't want to fix this either)..Denver area.  Help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17219" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T14:33:20.763" Title="Strong gas odor 1997 VW Eurovan" Tags="|vw|gasoline|smell|euro-van|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-09T18:31:46.480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21004" CreationDate="2016-05-09T14:37:00.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer large wooden blocks to jack stands, A safety issue. the alignment is solved by the use of a bull prick or a large phillips screwdriver for bolts installment. the rubber mounts wear out and shear. change all of them. lube the bolts with small amount of grease, the mounts wd-40. wire brush all mounting points. davez&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17178" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T14:37:00.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:09:07.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert in this field, but when I have undertaken similar small DIY projects I tend to apply masking tape further out on the panel than I need to. I then stick newspaper to the tape and fold it to fit closer to the size of the repair. So long as you don't go mad with the paint this leaves a softer feathery edge as the paint will overspray a short way under the folded edge of the paper, leaving a gradient rather than a hard edge. This can then be wet &amp;amp; dried and polished smooth a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:09:07.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29431" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:17:04.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you prefer the bigger wheels and you cannot feel a negative difference I'd plump for them otherwise I'd probably regret it every time I saw the car (except when purchasing new tyres!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to be into customised cars a lot when I was younger and used to put big wheels on all my cars, I felt at the time that the styling and cornering grip outweighed any detrimental ride or tramlining. That said I have driven my father's Vauxhall (Opel) Cascada that has standard 20&quot; wheels and rubber band tyres, I don't think the bigger wheels affect the drive at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:17:04.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:59:39.510" Score="1" ViewCount="10255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 ford explorer Eddie Bauer SOHC 4.0L and it is pouring water from a hole in the engine. I'm not sure where or what goes in the but it is running out fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17221" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T02:31:11.463" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T20:06:34.947" Title="Leaking water under bottom left of the engine block" Tags="|ford|coolant|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:59:49.670" Score="17" ViewCount="12229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently renting an garage in an underground parking lot. The garage has no light inside nor electric plugs. The only form of illumination available comes from the few neon lights in the corridor/driveway of the underground parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did so far was to install a motion-activated, battery-operated, LED light that is as bright as a candle in the wind. Nevertheless this works well enough since it allows me to see what I'm doing as I back my vehicles in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am looking for solutions on how to bring enough light down there so that I can work on the vehicles. A fuel-powered generator is a no-no since we are talking about an underground parking lot. As an added bonus I'd like to be able to use power tools, but that's not my priority as of now. Lighting is. &lt;strong&gt;Are there any smart and effective ways to light up a garage without relying on power outlets?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:26:26.783" Title="Smart and effective ways to light up a garage without relying on power outlets?" Tags="|maintenance|lights|parking|tips-and-tricks|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:13:10.580" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to do this, but the two that come immediately to mind are battery-powered LED work lights.  (A quick internet search will turn up many).  Two varieties might be of use/interest to you.  Some can be powered by the vehicle's battery which is convenient unless you're doing something like replacing a flat battery.  Others have their own rechargeable battery pack inside and can be recharged elsewhere (via connection to an outlet) and then brought to the site.  In your situation, I think I'd recommend the vehicle battery powered work light.  I have one that looks like this and works pretty well.  I leave it in the vehicle just in case.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZSDT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZSDT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="14098" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T18:59:30.123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T18:59:30.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:17:34.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;dead&quot; car battery can still have more than enough juice to run things like LED lights, phone chargers, etc. - and lots of us have one kicking round the workshop we haven't got round to disposing of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking one in your boot (sorry, trunk) to take with you is easy enough, and then charge it as far as possible when you get back to civilisation. If you're feeling flush, 12v jump-start packs are a versatile thing to have round and can usually be charged from mains or in a car, and many also have a (tiny, asthmatic) air compressor in them which could be handy in an off-grid workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for lighting - take your pick, loads of assorted low-voltage lighting stuff out there these days. A 25m reel of white flexi LED strip will set you back very little from eBay and you can just hook it up &amp;amp; hang it around the place. 12v work lights are available, and lots of camping gear is 12v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a push you could run lighting from your vehicle battery, assuming it's being run from time to time to recharge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9394" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T16:17:34.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29492" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:24:40.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to post this answer as preliminary and will update when more information is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is water visibly leaking from an engine, there are a few major culprits: hose connections, the water pump, and freeze plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the water is coming from a &quot;hole in the engine&quot;, I think we can cross off water hose connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the water is leaking from a small hole (small like a pencil) near one of the pulleys, your water pump could be worn out.  When the bearings and/or seals on the water pump fail, water will start to obvious leak out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you said the water was &quot;pouring&quot;, maybe it is a larger hole.  Freeze plugs are about the size of a US half-dollar (little over an 1&quot;), and can come loose over time.  They can start to leak a little, but its possible for them to really loosen up an leave a big gap for water to pour out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T16:24:40.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29502" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:34:12.050" Score="3" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;My gas gauge does not work at all. How do i diagnose the problem, to find out if this needs a new sending unit or if there are other issues?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T21:22:56.540" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T21:22:56.540" Title="2001 pontiac montana minivan- gas gauge does not work" Tags="|pontiac|gauges|montana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:55:29.597" Score="6" ViewCount="9940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a brand new Royal Enfield Classic 350 yesterday. This morning I rode it to my office (around 20 Km), parked in the basement, and in the evening I started to ride home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 10 Km the engine stopped while running, so I pulled over and checked the fuel. I had filled the 2.5 litre tank this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to start again using the self start switch. It was turning over but would not start. The Amp Meter needle was touching the left side of the green area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure what happened to this new bike, so after noticing the engine was very hot I waited for 5-10 minutes and started again. It started, but after 5 km it stopped again. It did the same again after waiting for it to cool. And by repeating this process I got home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening to my brand new bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17223" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T17:38:34.433" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T17:44:13.790" Title="My brand new bike stopped while running - why?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|enfield-bullet|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-10T11:50:28.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:01:59.093" Score="6" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey with leather seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to keep them from drying out and cracking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17224" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T23:57:49.957" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T23:57:49.957" Title="What should I use to maintain leather seats?" Tags="|honda|interior|odyssey|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29499" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:44:13.790" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Royal Enfeild is a very old design.  The motorcycle is based upon an old British design from World War II and has changed very little over the years.  I do not know what type of quality control process the Indian manufacturing of the vehicle has implemented so that is very difficult to asses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It sounds like your gas cap vent or your fuel tank vent is clogged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is making me think that your fuel tank is not allowing atmospheric pressure into the fuel system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your gas tank has a vent that allows the negative or positive pressure out of the system.  You may have a kink in your ventilation hose.  If the gas tank ventilates to the atmosphere it may have blockage there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a vent hose that is routed all the way down to the bottom of the motorcycle. It would route behind the engine.  This tube cannot be kinked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms of kinked fuel line will be stalling after the engine runs for a period of time and consumes fuel in the gas tank.  As the fuel is consumed the fuel level will drop in the gas tank.  The dropping fuel level would create a negative pressure inside the gas tank.  The vacuum would prevent fuel from flowing into the carburetors making the engine stall from being fuel starved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the vent hose, you may need to take the gas tank off the bike, and ensure it is properly routed.  If you find a kink in the vent hose, un-kink it and make sure that when the fuel tank goes on the vent hose doesn't get folded in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not have anything to do with manufacturing quality.  It may have something to do with how the bike was assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T17:44:13.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29498" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:10:04.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the fuel gauge sending wire from the fuel tank sending unit, with key on the fuel gauge will either go to Full or empty, now ground the fuel sender wire to a good ground, the gauge should do a full sweep to the opposite end of the gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get no change on the gauge during this test you either have a bad gauge or a break in the sender wire to the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time it is the sender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T18:10:04.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32281" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:29:38.650" Score="4" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma that has stalled 3 times in the past 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine will turn off while exiting the freeway, admittedly at a faster pace than normal, and following the off-ramp as it cloverleafs to the right. After it stalls, I am able to start it back up, but the engine wont maintain an idle. If i want to slow down AND keep my engine running, I am required to shift the automatic transmission to neutral and use the brake with my left as i keep the engine running with my right. So far I have been lucky and havent need to travel further than a stop sign in this condition, but i dont want to rely on luck to get where i am going. &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;This weekend I cleaned the Idle Air Control valve of all the soot that has built up over the 260k mile lifetime of the vehicle and am hoping that will fix this issue. The current malady reminds me of a previous issue where the engine would stutter when I started it up hot (fix: replacing 2/3 ignition coils).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it strange that I can start my car the next day and the issue is gone. It only seems to happen when slowing on an off-ramp after an extended time on the freeway with no traffic. If i start it up before it has cooled completely, it wont idle, it just dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has a repair suggestion or another symptom to be aware of, please let me know what to look for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12521" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T16:37:11.553" Title="2000 Tacoma Stalls then Wont Idle" Tags="|engine|toyota|stall|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:55:26.390" Score="6" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an '87 Ninja 600R (ZX600b) and can't figure out whats missing that goes in or over this hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it missing a plug, a hose, or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzP8l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzP8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17225" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T19:17:28.717" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:26:00.850" Title="Missing part on '87 Ninja 600R" Tags="|motorcycle|part-identification|kawasaki|ninja|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:06:51.753" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery operated flashlights or worklights which share batteries with your cordless tools would be a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will allow you to work on the car even with a dead or disconnected battery. Choosing the right tool will give you either an area light or a focused light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples from one manufacturer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0GCi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0GCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ryobi area light (I own this one, it has a provision for battery or mains operation)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uRukk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uRukk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ryobi lantern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJVQQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJVQQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ryobi flashlight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other major makers such as DeWalt and Milwaukee have similar options. These tools share batteries with other cordless tools like drills, impact drivers, and saws. This battery sharing allows you to charge up several of the same battery pack and get use from different tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These options should also be augmented with a good pocket flashlight (Surefire, Streamlight, or similar brands) and a handful of cheap pocket flashlights (Harbor Freight) for tight, dark corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2677" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T19:06:51.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29504" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:20:15.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Breather fitting is missing according to the diagram, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1987-kawasaki-ninja-600r-zx600a-ca/o/m150351#sch55436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can buy one on Bike bandit.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original OEM Part number was 92005-1129&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it looks like 92005-1017 may be a tube that attaches to  it, but not sure, schematics are not that good. You could call BikeBandit on the phone to figure out what is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEOfO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEOfO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T19:31:47.030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T19:31:47.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29504" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:26:19.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is a hose that connects your air box to this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in comments, this is connection point for a PCV hose.  The hose connects to the bottom of your air box that attaches to your carburetors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hole allows for crankcase ventilation.  Any gasses that should not be released into the atmosphere can be vented here.  It should get pulled back into your motor and burnt, which is why it's connected to you air box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are additional emissions related components that are related to this ventilation system including a vacuum diaphragm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/139859/1987/ZX600-A3&quot;&gt;Link to parts diagram.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See part number 90259D (Breather) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the hose is attached to the bottom of the air box you removed to get that photo.  The connection point is very clean and the cases aren't covered in fresh oil.  Just old stuff.  Look on your air box and I think you may discover the hose that attaches to crank vent is attached to the air box and that you aren't missing any parts after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T20:26:00.850" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:26:00.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29427" CreationDate="2016-05-09T20:46:45.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a call back from my friend, they replaced the alternator and confirmed a good idle on the road test. Charging voltage is back in the 14+v range and the idle jump is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:46:45.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-05-09T21:56:43.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My take is slightly different, though related to what has been said. Obviously, LED lighting is the way to go. The reason for this is because the for the amount of light, it uses very little battery to operate (very low power consumption). The problem lies in the fact you need a few LED lights to make enough light to see anything with any real clarity. My suggestion to you is to get 12v rope LED lights which can be hung up via double stick tape. This will provide plenty of overhead light and give you illumination around the work area. Something &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightingever.com/12v-waterproof-led-strip-4100066-blue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TMHMk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TMHMk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a pain the butt, you'll need to connect these to a 12vdc power source large enough to run it for a good long time. With that in mind, you'll want to get a marine battery. These batteries are used to power trolling motors for a long time. It will provide the low amperage draw of the LED lights for a long period of time without the need to worry about running out. When you are done for the day, take the battery home with you and charge it. The best part about this type of solution is, once you are done and you turn the area you are renting back over to the owner, the lights can go with you. You can also use as many as you need to give as much light as you need for the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These alone will not be enough to provide enough light to illuminate your work area so you can actually work (not like fluorescent bulbs might). You'll need another form of light to provide you with enough light right where you are working at to give you directed light to get your work done. These will be the battery powered lights like you've seen in the rest of the answers. You'll need to find one (or more) which fits your needs and can easily be taken home with you to be charged for the next time you go to your &quot;shop&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T21:56:43.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29500" CreationDate="2016-05-09T22:03:02.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean leather seats with a good leather cleaner and follow up with a good leather conditioner.  I personally like the leather honey series of products, but that's just my opinion and a little off-topic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on topic is how often this should be done.  A good rule of thumb is every three months, but your exact needs may vary based on many factors regarding how rough you are on the leather, including sun exposure, transporting pets, etc.   If you live in Texas or Arizona, or somewhere like that with lots of sun exposure, and you're taking your German shepards with you everywhere,  you may need to clean and condition every month. Or if you're talking about a car that is parked in a garage at home and at work, and you're very gentle on the leather, wear only the softest cashmere pants, and never allow animals with sharp claws to even drool around your car, then maybe you could get away with conditioning only once a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, three months is a good baseline to start out with and then adjust from there if you feel you need to.  Once you start using a quality conditioner, you'll feel the difference in the leather, and you'll be able to start to tell when it needs reapplied because the leather will start to stiffen up and feel dryer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T22:14:41.967" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T22:14:41.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2016-05-09T22:45:12.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already got some good advice on buffing and polishing.  Here are some tips to hiding paint lines and minimizing their noticeability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always provide the paint code &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the VIN when you have paint mixed.  There are almost always variations in batch and manufacturers make slight changes to color formulas over the years, so paint code is not always enough by itself. This can make a &lt;em&gt;HUGE&lt;/em&gt; difference. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blend panels on the same plane; don't end at body gaps. Any change in color is more noticeable when it's on the same plane - e.g. a fender and a door are on the same plane (while a hood, trunk, or bumper are typically on perpendicular planes from a fender).  When you paint a fender, it's often necessary to blend into the door, so the panel-gap does not contrast and exasperate the slight color variation. Shoot a little color (base coat) 6-12&quot; past the panel gap and then clear another 12&quot; or so beyond that (so clear would go 18-24&quot; into door in that example). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint up to body-lines/features and use &quot;soft&quot; line taping techniques.  Use the car's natural lines to your advantage for hiding a paint line; the natural shifts in light will make the paint line much less obvious.  A good technique for softening paint lines is to take your tape and put it down so that its over (covering) the feature line and then roll the tape back to make a tube (like a curling wave that a surfer would ride inside) which the bottom of the tube (sticky part of tape) is tangent the feature line. This will soften the edge of your paint line and will help it to be less noticeable.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &quot;soft&quot; tape lines and an &quot;expanding over-lapping area&quot; technique for spot painting.   While it's better to take the paint up to a feature line if you can, sometimes that's just not practical. The best way I've found to minimize a tape line is to combine soft taping with a technique of limiting and expanding the area at each stage (primer, color, clear). Staring with primer, you want to soft-tape off an area that is 1-2&quot; larger than your bodywork area (it can be a square, doesn't have to follow bodywork shape - just has to be larger than the largest area of  bodywork).  After primer drys, block your primer out with tape in place, then remove that tape and soft tape off a slightly larger area (offset the line so it's 3-6&quot; larger all the way around).  Shoot your color (base coat) within this area and then remove tape.   Now once again you will soft-tape off an expanded area, 6-12&quot; larger than the color area, and this is where you'll spray clear.  Finally, once dry, remove tape and then wet-sand and buff to blend.  This technique helps to limit overspray and contain the blend to a smaller area.  The technique of overlapping areas helps to mask color variations from base over primer vs base over color, and helps blend old and new clears to make all the transitions less noticeable.  This also will help you avoid paint building up too thick and having a hard raised edge from the tape line (like you described in the comments on another answer to this question). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to match factory orange peel as best you can!  Avoid wet-sanding and buffing by shooting paint that matches the factory finish :)  A tip that seems to help a lot here is to add just a tiny bit of base-maker to your clear.  It helps thin the clear just enough to sag and spread a little more, so you get that larger orange peel typical of the factory finish, as opposed to that real tight orange-peel indicative of most re-sprayed panels.  If you get a bad match in finish textures, you may have to do a lot of sanding and buffing to make the repair work blend with the rest of the car. If you can match the factory finish, you're done.  Maybe you might run over the area with a polisher for good measure, but that's about it.  No need to sand or cut. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T23:16:53.510" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T23:16:53.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28734" CreationDate="2016-05-10T01:05:49.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engineers typically design parts to withstand a greater load than they are actually expected to see.  This is known as a &quot;factor of safety&quot; and assures the parts won't fail when extenuating circumstances are encountered where the product is stressed beyond the design calculations considered.  Given that NASCAR is a very specific type of racing with (assumingly) well understood load cases and tons of telemetry data, it's reasonable to assume they can run a lower FOS than you (the amateur without millions to spend on R&amp;amp;D and without hundred of engineers and data analysts on staff) or the typical manufacturers (who must account for conditions of use by all sorts of people, for all sorts of purposes, in all sorts of environments, all over the world) would normally allow.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say a single stud has a shear strength rating of 160ksi.  If we have five studs, and we assume a perfectly even distribution of load (for simplicity's sake we will consider only the studs and only the torque of wheels, which we will again simply assume applies only shear load) than our five stud pattern can handle up to 800ksi total load before failing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if we knew the designer targeted an FOS of 4, then that means the design is capable of handling 4 times the normal expected load, so if we divide 800ksi by 4, we can determine the expected total normal load is 200ksi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically then, we should, under normal expected conditions, be able to &quot;safely&quot; handle that load with only 2 studs (200/2 is 100 which is less than 160).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a few things to consider before you throw away half your lug nuts :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, we (you and I) don't know what the original loads are or what the designed FOS number is  - it's not something in the spec sheets, and you don't know if it was 1.5, 2, 4, or 6  - so without doing all the calculations ourselves to determine the normal loads, and knowing all about the design, we can't objectively say whether or not 1 or 5 studs is &quot;safe.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, race cars quite often run at a much MUCH lower FOS than production cars.  This is what you call &quot;pushing the limits&quot; and part of the reason why stuff breaks on race cars a lot more frequently and a lot differently than on production cars.   So where a normal production car might run an FOS of 5, a race car might run at 1.5 - allowing them to remove more material and save weight (or in this case time) with the trade-off  being less margin of error and more risk of breaking something.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-04-07T14:00:53.433" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T14:00:53.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="742" CreationDate="2016-05-10T04:30:44.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The component on the cluster board could be defective. I had something similar years ago (decades actually). It turned out to cold solder joint on a 5 volt regulator as well as a nearby capacitor. Also checking for bad grounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:30:44.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29658" CreationDate="2016-05-10T08:10:43.863" Score="6" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stock Citroen BX is equipped with hydropneumatic suspension.&#xA;    I have a ser of xantia suspension spheres mounted which brings the pressure up to 70bar vs the standard 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how does hydropneumatic suspension perform in contrast of conventional suspension or sports suspension?&#xA;    Now don't get me wrong, it's a fabulous sensation and I've ridden few cars as comfortable as this, but does comfort come in exchange for performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T00:32:33.880" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T09:42:40.443" Title="How does hydropneumatic suspension perform vs conventional suspension?" Tags="|suspension|citroen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2016-05-10T08:20:31.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The black plastic part you see surrounding the dust cap in the centre is simply a &lt;strong&gt;spigot ring&lt;/strong&gt; that is used to finely adjust the centre bore of the alloy wheel. If you measure the diameter of the lip that the spigot ring is sat on and the diameter of the centre hole in your wheel there will likely be a small difference that is taken up by the ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your new wheels require spigot rings, I'm assuming that the gap yous see is caused by either this ring being too thick for the wheel, or that there are now two rings (old and new), one attached to the hub and one to the wheel. The old one will pop off with a wide screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the shop that fitted the wheels should not have left your car like that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, in my experience (in the UK, your definition may be different), &lt;em&gt;hubcentric adapters&lt;/em&gt; are used to change the pitch circle diameter (bolt spacing) and/or the offset (distance between edge of rim and face that attaches to the car). They are metal and considerably more heavyweight than what you have there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T08:20:31.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T08:38:41.823" Score="6" ViewCount="137716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 BMW E39, the car gives a knocking noise when braking, which can be felt and heard from the front. Outside it is much louder than inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be caused by a rotten brake dust shield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16734" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T11:49:03.180" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T17:53:34.250" Title="Car gives knocking noise from front during braking" Tags="|brakes|bmw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:06:44.223" Score="5" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished a body off restoration of my 1989 Chevrolet Scottsdale 2500 HD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is there an OBDI or OBDII or do I need a adapter to scan it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I rebuilt the engine and transmission it has 90 thousand original miles on it before the restoration.  Please let me know if there is a way to use my scan tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17235" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T09:42:09.127" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:30:59.083" Title="1989 Chevy Scottsdale 2500 HD 5.7 liter 350" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29480" CreationDate="2016-05-10T09:23:50.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the worst case, using an expired tyre can be fatal - as the rubber ages, it perishes (dries out), and becomes weaker and brittle. At speed, it heats up and the pressure increases (as the air inside also heats up). This can lead to a blowout - there is a well known case in the UK where a classic car owner had 25 year old 'new' (i.e. previously unused) tyres on his car, had a blowout at speed on the motorway, and was killed in the resultant crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in a less drastic case, the harder, drier rubber will have significantly less grip, and so stopping distances will increase, as will the risk of skidding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never fit a tyre older than 6 years, and replace any older than 10. It's not worth the risk...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T09:23:50.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T10:41:41.307" Score="4" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Holden Barlina 2004 VY model v6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it for at least 2 years now, but this issue only started to happen two months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I turn it on, it goes smooth and quietly, but as I drive, approximately 5 to 7 minutes down the road, when the RPM is down, it would then shuts off without notice, or even when I accelerate when lights turn green, it shuts off midway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTED: this only happens during early morning or at night when it's cold, and once it did that, it would not happen again during the ride. According to one of a mechanic, he claimed that it might be an electrical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is&#xA;How likely that it is an electrical problem?&#xA;if it's not&#xA;What else could it be and what could I do to resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17238" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T20:58:08.240" Title="Car Shuts Off during low RPM and only happens at night or early morning" Tags="|electrical|holden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T10:49:33.137" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2000 GMC Jimmy with 170,012 miles on it. Is it normal that it is reading hot on the dip stick of the tranny fluid? yes this is after its been running for awhile.Also the previous owner replaced breaks both pads and calipers and the ABS light is on,however she says she doesn't recall if it was on prior to changing them (it was her sons car) could the change have triggered the light to come on due to the sensors? or is this evidence of further problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17239" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T11:45:39.130" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T12:54:40.633" Title="Transmission Dip stick reading at Hot level" Tags="|brakes|transmission|gmc|abs|jimmy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-10T16:45:13.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29521" CreationDate="2016-05-10T11:26:54.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading hot on the transmission dipstick after driving is normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the ABS light they could of damaged wiring while doing the brakes but it's unlikely. Reading ABS codes requires a scantool capable of talking to the ABS computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T11:47:57.540" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T11:47:57.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2016-05-10T11:30:40.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;89 is OBD1 and requires specific connectors and a OBD1 scantool. You can jump pins A &amp;amp; B on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vzre.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ALDL&lt;/a&gt; (Assembly Line Datalink Connector located under the driver side dash) to make the MIL flash out codes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T14:59:18.253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:59:18.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29527" CreationDate="2016-05-10T11:51:23.227" Score="17" ViewCount="6638" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1410/jump-starting-a-dead-battery-connect-black-wire-to-negative-pole-of-battery-or&quot;&gt;Jump starting a dead battery: Connect black wire to negative pole of battery or grounded metal?&lt;/a&gt;, you connect the black jumper cable to the dead car's chassis to avoid sparks made during the connection near the battery, which could be surrounded by hydrogen gas. As Paul points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15546/why-should-i-connect-the-red-positive-terminal-first-when-jump-starting#comment20921_15548&quot;&gt;Why should I connect the red/positive terminal first when jump starting?&lt;/a&gt;, this seems extremely unlikely, but okay, safety first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the advice is to attach the black cable to exposed metal on the chassis or engine block. The engine block on the average car is not that huge. I'm wondering, if the battery is surrounded by a cloud of hydrogen gas, and I connect the black terminal somewhere on the opposite end of the engine block, would it not still ignite the cloud of gas? Is the cloud of gas that tightly focused around the battery? Also, what about when you actually manage to start the car? Why is there no risk of igniting the gas cloud from the various heat- and spark sources when a car is started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17240" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T07:02:40.253" Title="Why is gas around a car battery only at risk of ignition from jumper cables?" Tags="|battery|jump-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29517" CreationDate="2016-05-10T12:04:49.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely to be caused by a rotten brake dust shield, if the knocking is repetitive with a frequency that alters with speed, that would suggest that it's source is something that is rotating. Perhaps a badly warped brake disk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastEditorUserId="16908" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T13:36:28.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:36:28.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29515" CreationDate="2016-05-10T12:17:28.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In normal road situations I have never driven a car as smooth as a hydropneumatic Citroen. I have regularly driven a BX and several Xantias and have never thought that they handled any better or worse than a 'conventional' car in normal road situations. I suspect that they are inferior on the track or if pushed really hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One to research is the &lt;strong&gt;Xantia Activa&lt;/strong&gt; as it uses a far more advanced system that is supposed to be brilliant and handle great, albeit at the expense of patchy electronics. IIRC an Activa has a higher cornering speed in the swedish Elk test than a lot of properly fast cars (inc the 911, R8, NSX, M3 etc etc)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastEditorUserId="16908" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T09:52:50.310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T09:52:50.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29524" CreationDate="2016-05-10T12:20:34.147" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no expert in this topic, but I don't think a &quot;cloud of gas&quot; forms around the battery. Hydrogen gas is the lightest gas of them all (0.089 g/l) and won't pool up if leaked. It will simply rise as long as the bonnet is open because it is less dense than air, which is mostly much heavier nitrogen (1.25 g/l) and oxygen (1.4285 g/l). My guess is that the practice of connecting recipient's ground to the chassis rather than the negative battery post simply protects from igniting some minute leakage from the battery itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be any open spark sources when the car is started. Alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor and alternator shouldn't openly spark if they're in good condition, and they're usually far enough from the battery anyways. The heat shouldn't be nearly enough even if for some reason the engine you're jump starting is hot. Hydrogen spontaneously ignites in the atmosphere at ~500 °C, under hood temperatures shouldn't go much above ~100 °C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T07:02:40.253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T07:02:40.253" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29534" CreationDate="2016-05-10T12:31:40.083" Score="4" ViewCount="187583" Body="&lt;p&gt;The remote central locking thing on my car key does not alway lock or unlock the car. Sometimes it works right away, sometimes I have to press it dozens of times before it works, sometimes it never works at all. I've tried it at various distances and this does not seem to make a difference. I've replaced (and measured) the battery inside the remote but it's brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is something is up with the RF receiver. However, how does one go about diagnosing this? Any tell-tale signs worth looking for during a visual inspection? Is there a way of using a multimeter to measure wether or not the receiver is actually receiving the signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17240" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T16:14:33.773" Title="Remote does not always lock/unlock the car: diagnosing RF receiver issues" Tags="|key|locks|fob|central-locking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29521" CreationDate="2016-05-10T12:54:40.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are misunderstanding the reading on the stick.  The Hot mark doesn't mean the fluid is overly hot...  That is the &lt;em&gt;full&lt;/em&gt; mark when the fluid is hot (which is normal).  Transmissions are supposed to be checked after the engine is up to temperature and has been driving a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T12:54:40.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29517" CreationDate="2016-05-10T13:06:40.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A knocking noise when braking (or during less noticeable maneuvers) can be attributed to worn front suspension parts - especially control arm bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is from some random heavily worn lower control arm bushings.  As you can see, the rubber wears out and the connector in the middle is free to wiggle and &lt;em&gt;knock&lt;/em&gt; around.  Using your brakes puts a lot of stress on these bushings so it's more likely to be heard at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other symptoms, which may or may not be present, are a noisy clattering on a bumpy road, odd steering feel/behavior at low speeds, and pulling to one side when braking.  Also, your alignment would normally be out of wack so tire wear may be uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get you car up on jackstands, a worn bushing is sometimes easy to see (depends on the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgMgU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgMgUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;control arm bushing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Click for larger image&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T13:06:40.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29524" CreationDate="2016-05-10T13:28:25.193" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to get a bit technical but should still be understandable even if you slept through chemistry classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When is hydrogen dangerous?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as with the fuel-air mixture in an engine, hydrogen is combustible only when it's within a range of concentrations.  We use what are called the &lt;em&gt;Lower Explosive Limit&lt;/em&gt; (LEL) and the &lt;em&gt;Upper Explosive Limit&lt;/em&gt; (UEL) which are the concentrations of gas (in air) that will ignite.  For hydrogen gas, the LEL is 4% and the UEL is more than 75%, meaning that if the concentration of hydrogen gas reaches 4%, it is at the level that could ignite with a spark.  For comparison, the natural concentration of H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; in the atmosphere is about 0.01%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How does a car battery produce hydrogen gas?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car's battery is filled with a mixture of 36% sulphuric acid (SO&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt;) and 64% water (H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;O).  Hydrogen gas is released when the battery is charging due to a process called &lt;em&gt;electrolysis&lt;/em&gt; in which water decomposes into its constituent hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) in the presence of a voltage that is greater than the decomposition voltage equilibrium.  That voltage is 1.227V for water.  The normal voltage for a single lead-acid battery cell is 2.1V and there are six of them in series in a car battery (6 x 2.1 = 12.6V).  Because the cell voltage is higher than the decomposition voltage for water, very small amounts of gas are almost always being produced.  However, the worst case (most hydrogen) is produced when forcing maximum current into an already fully charged cell.  It's also a temperature-sensitive reaction, so higher temperatures will tend to produce more gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How much hydrogen is produced?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reaction we're interested in is the one for hydrogen ions (H&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt;) becoming hydrogen gas (H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;).  Chemists would write it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2H&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt; + 2e&lt;sup&gt;-&lt;/sup&gt; --&gt; H&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just means that two hydrogen ions plus two electrons yields one molecule of hydrogen gas. (It also implies that the the gas comes from the negative electrode, but remember this is per cell.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping much of the mathematics and chemistry details, we can calculate that at a temperature of 25C (77F), we produce about 0.45 liter of hydrogen gas per cell per 1 Ah (amp-hour) overcharge.  So pushing 10A through a fully charged standard 6-cell battery for one hour would produce 0.45 l/Ah x 6 x 10A x 1 h = 27 l of hydrogen gas at 25C.  For that to be dangerous, we'd need at least a 4% concentration, so we'd need a total volume of air + hydrogen to be 675 liters or less.  Jump starting doesn't usually occupy a whole hour and usually doesn't involve overcharging an already charged battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where does the hydrogen go?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As anyone who has ever heard of the Hindenburg disaster knows, hydrogen is both lighter than air and also combustible.  Because it's lighter than air, any hydrogen gas released from the battery will tend to rise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The bottom line&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the typical under hood placement of a car battery, most of the hydrogen will rise harmlessly into the atmosphere as soon as the hood is opened, but more may be produced as the car is being jumpstarted.  That's why the hoods should stay open and why it's also good practice to first connect (and first disconnect) the negative connection as far from the battery as practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automotive designers have already gone through these calculations and the concentrations under the hood are much much lower than 4% even in extreme situations of charging system malfunction.  For instance, standards such as IEEE 484 describe a design target of no more than 2%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="14956" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T19:03:18.137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T19:03:18.137" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-05-10T14:26:26.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a harbor freight solar security light the biggest one they sell. It has a remote solar collector you can put outside and they produce reasonable amounts of light with a motion detector to turn on when you need it. I don't think you can make one as inexpensive as they sell one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17244" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:26:26.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:01:55.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1989 is OBD1, my favorite scanner for this vintage GM product is a Snap-On MT2500, you can find them on eBay fairly reasonable. Be sure the scanner comes with the GM1 aldl adapter, a Primary cartridge and a Troubleshooter cartridge and cables for your model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can short the proper pins (image below) to get the check engine light to flash any codes stored, do this with Key on, Engine off (KOEO). You will get long flashes and short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code 12 means there are no codes stored, One long flash followed by 2 short flashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long flashes are the first digit in the number code, followed by short flashes for the second digit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2tm5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2tm5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;code - code definition &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12- diagnostic mode or no codes present&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13- 02 sensor or circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14- coolant sensor or circuit/ high temp indicated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15- coolant sensor or circuit/ low temp indicated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16- system voltage out of range &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19- crankshaft position sensor or circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage high &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage low &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit (1990 and earlier models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23- intake air temperature (iat) sensor circuit (fuel-injected models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24- vehicle speed sensor (vss) or circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1990 and earlier models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25- intake air temperature (iat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1991 and later models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26- quad driver module circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27- quad driver module circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;28- quad driver module circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29- quad driver module circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;31- park/neutral position (pnp) switch circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32- baro sensor or circuit (carbureted models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32- egr circuit (fuel-injected models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;33- manifold absolute pressure (map sensor signal voltage high &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;33- mass air flow (maf) sensor or circuit - excessive airflow indicated 34- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor signal voltage low &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34- mass air flow (maf) sensor signal - low airflow indicated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;35- idle speed control (isc) switch or circuit (shorted) (carbureted models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;35- idle air control (iac) valve/ circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;38- brake switch circuit 39- torque converter clutch (tcc) circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;41- no distributor signals to ecm, or faulty ignition module ( carbed models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;41- cylinders select error- mem-cal or ecm problem ( fuel-injected models 41- cam sensor circuit (3.8 engine) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;42- bypass or electronic spark timing (est) circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;43- low voltage at ecm terminal l (carbureted models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;43- knock sensor circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;44- oxygen sensor or circuit - lean exhaust detected &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45- oxygen sensor or circuit - rich exhaust detected &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;46- power steering pressure switch circuit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;48- misfire diagnosis &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;51- prom, mem-cal or ecm problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;52- calpak or ecm problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;53- egr fault (carbureted models only) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;53- system over-voltage (ecm over 17.7 volts) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;54- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;54- fuel pump circuit (1986 and later models) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;55- oxygen sensor circuit or ecm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;55- fuel lean monitor (2.2l engine) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;61- oxygen sensor signal faulty (possible contaminated sensor) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;62- transaxle gear switch signal circuits &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;63- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage high (low vacuum detected) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;64- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage low (high vacuum detected) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;66- pressure sensor or circuit air conditioning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T17:30:59.083" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:30:59.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29528" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:37:21.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar issue with remote controls before. Just for completeness, I've already listed two things you've already tried -- they're primarily for anyone who reads this some time in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replace the battery&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already know this one, but it's the easiest and most typical fix.  It's also pretty inexpensive, so a good thing to try. If you get the same symptom with a fresh battery, verify that the battery really is fresh by measuring the voltage if you have a voltmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make sure you're on the driver's side of the car&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cars have the receiver mounted to optimize reception from approaching the driver's side door.  There's often a big difference in performance (distance between you and the vehicle) depending on which side of the vehicle you approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check the locking mechanisms in the doors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, if you're close enough to the vehicle, you can hear the &quot;click&quot; of the lock solenoid.  If you hear that but the door doesn't reliably unlock, the problem is much more likely to be the locking mechanism in the door rather than either the transmitter or receiver.  Verify by using the electronic locking buttons within the car to see if they reliably lock and unlock the doors.  If not, sometimes all that's required is a little lithium grease on the locking mechanism ... after you've spent an hour or so taking the door apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clean the contacts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many remotes use a carbon &quot;button&quot; embedded into a flexible membrane. It is intended to contact a small matching interlocking comb pattern of copper (or sometimes carbon on copper) on the circuit board.  Sometimes these carbon buttons will fail due to dirt or moisture or corrosion so gently cleaning them (and any other contacts, such as the battery) with a pencil eraser will fix the problem.  (BTW, this same trick works on many TV remote controls.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Touch up solder joints&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a soldering iron and know how to use it, you might try touching up the soldered joints in the remote, especially the ones for the battery and for the antenna (if the antenna isn't part of the circuit board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tune the transmitter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is somewhat advanced, but with a garage door opener I once had, one of the remotes worked well and the other didn't.  I opened up the poorly performing one (after doing all of the above steps) and adjusted a trim capacitor on the board for maximum output signal from the RF oscillator as measured with an oscilloscope with built-in frequency counter.  If you don't have access to such equipment, you'd be ill advised to try this.  Twiddling adjustments manually without instrumentation is only likely to make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replace the remote&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a dealer to verify that there is a performance problem with the remote, they might be willing to replace it, depending on the warranty status of the vehicle.  Otherwise, be prepared to pay what seems to me to be a lot of money for a replacement.  A recent replacement keyfob for my daughter's 2013 Fiat cost $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replace the receiver&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is almost always difficult and expensive and is listed last for those reasons.  On modern cars with security features tied to the particular car, this will likely require dealer tools that you don't have and can't easily buy.  If none of the steps above worked, I'd probably report it to the dealer and hope that either it's a known and covered defect that the dealer will replace for free &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; that my wallet survives the beating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T15:37:21.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9651" CreationDate="2016-05-10T16:04:25.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That ring is a spigot ring used when the center bore of your wheel is greater than the size of the hub wheel mounting, spacers are usually metal and either have holes with bolts that screw into the hub or holes that line up with your stud pattern to go through the wheels, then through the spacers and then into the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for the &quot;wobbly steering wheel&quot; that could be any number of things such as - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bolts/nuts not tightened up enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel wasn't sat on the hub properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deteriorated wheel bearings, bottom arm, drop link, trackrod end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel(s) not balanced properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;out of shape tyre(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buckled wheel(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell if you need a spigot ring on by taking it off the hub, putting your wheel onto the hub (without any nuts/bolts in) and then try shaking the wheel side to side and up and down, if there is movement/ a gap between your wheels center bore and the hubs mount then you need the spigot ring, if not then you dont. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14086" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T16:04:25.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29520" CreationDate="2016-05-10T18:19:21.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the symptoms, I'm going to guess that it might be a problem with the &lt;strong&gt;temperature sensor&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is supposed to happen is that the engine control unit (ECU) gets a signal from the engine coolant temperature sensor to tell when the engine is warm.  When it's warm, the ECU knows to lean out the fuel mixture.  What I suspect might be happening is that the sensor is bad and the ECU &quot;thinks&quot; the engine is warm before it is and when you ask for acceleration (as when pulling away when the light turns green), the engine isn't getting enough fuel and stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the temp sensor is pretty cheap (around AUS$5) and relatively easily replaced.  On your model car, I believe it's just in front of the inlet manifold toward the top of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T18:19:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="52772" CreationDate="2016-05-10T19:00:00.067" Score="9" ViewCount="9457" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have my AC running, and I turn down the fan speed, does this also change the load the AC puts on the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the compressor puts load on the engine, and reduces fuel economy, I am wondering if this varies with fan speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not, and I only require modest cooling, it would make sense to blow it at full fan speed, and then toggle it completely off, rather than blow it constant at low fan speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16037" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T12:32:54.170" Title="Does turning fan speed down affect AC compressor load" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29542" CreationDate="2016-05-10T19:00:09.393" Score="5" ViewCount="90880" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car that I am working on displayed below is a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier 2.2 DOHC. I would like to admit that my knowledge of cars is little to none. I decided to start tinkering around with it because for whatever reason the car would not start one day. I replaced the battery but while doing so I needed to remove &lt;code&gt;the part labeled '2'&lt;/code&gt; in order to get a socket wrench to remove the bolts going into the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I removed &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; black engine oil started pouring out of the part labeled &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;. I know that 2 goes to the air filter but I have no clue why &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; are filling with oil nor do I know what they are called. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me identify the 2 parts and additionally why they are filling with oil if possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have added the image below&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/feSRc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/feSRc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I have added the image below&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17250" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:21:09.173" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T04:37:19.630" Title="Why is oil filling up in my air intake system?" Tags="|chevrolet|repair|oil-leak|cavalier|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29538" CreationDate="2016-05-10T19:05:19.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C compressor in your car is like most (not all) A/C compressors every where else - they are single speed and don't have any adjustments.  They are on or off.  Changing the temperature knob or the fan speed will not decrease the load.  The compressor is doing the same amount of work - you're just pushing less cool air around the cabin.  At some point, the system might get too cold and the compressor could cycle on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might notice that when your fan speed is low, the air coming out of the vents will actually be colder.  The same cooling is happening on less air, so you get a bigger temperature drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T19:05:19.917" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4514" CreationDate="2016-05-10T19:33:00.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dumb question time: Is it a 4Matic? If so, you really need to use the same tire size on front and back in order to not cause excessive wear in the transfer case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17194" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T19:33:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29539" CreationDate="2016-05-10T19:38:42.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number 1 looks like your intake manifold and number 2 is your intake hose leading to the throttle body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 2-3 ounces of oil come out of #1 when #2 is removed, that's ok. It's most likely oil that's been pushed up by the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose. (Your motor doesn't have a PCV valve, just the hose with a filter on it. Ahhh, Chevy...). If it's more than 2-3 ounces (1-2 shot glasses) then you most likely have either a failed PCV hose or a vacuum leak that causes oil to be sucked into the intake. It might also come from some combination of too much oil, extended high RPMs or aggressive cornering pushing oil into the intake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to drain the oil out, measure the amount. If it's not too much, try to keep your oil level below full (about 2/3 to 3/4 is best) and check it again in a week. If it's full again you need that looked at, it will eat O2 sensors and clog your catalytic converters if you don't take care of it. If it's just a little bit, don't worry about it, that's kind of natural with the Chevy &quot;Bent Hose&quot; solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1612" LastEditorUserId="1612" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T18:32:31.373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:32:31.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29520" CreationDate="2016-05-10T20:58:08.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely sounds like a sensor problem. ~Random stalling is often caused by a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensor as the ECU thinks there is a mechanical problem and puts the engine into a safe mode or loses track doesn't have enough information to properly control functions like automatic choke or anti-stall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned this could also be a temperature or lambda (air/fuel ratio) sensor problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first course of action is to get an electronic diagnostic check an independent dealer can usually do this pretty cheaply and replacing a bad sensor in not usually expensive unless it is in an awkward place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not unusual for this sort of problem to be intermittent so it will help if you take detailed notes about the exact symptoms and the conditions in which they occur to help diagnosis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also not unusual for certain makes and models to have specific sensor problems so a good mechanic familiar with your vehicle may be able to diagnose it just from a description of the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T20:58:08.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29524" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:07:13.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the reason for connecting the positive jumplead before the negative jumplead is that so that if it slips off, you will notice this before connecting the negative one. If you connected the negative one first and then the positive one, one of the positive crocodile clips could slip off, make contact with the chassis of one of the vehicles, thus shortcircuiting the battery and causing an immense current to flow, resulting in a fire. With modern shrouded jumpleads this is less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the most important reason for connecting the negative jumplead to the dead vehicle's engine block is for a better connection to the starter motor. The starter motor's ground is connected via its chassis to the engine block, therefore most effective starting occurs when the jumplead is connected there. Connecting to the battery terminal introduces a longer path from the jumplead to the starter motor, so is to be avoided as it makes starting less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, connecting the negative lead to the engine block increases the resistance to the dead vehicle's battery, avoiding excessive charging current. Connecting the negative lead to the battery of the dead vehicle would give a higher charging current (but as explained above, a lower starting current.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T21:07:13.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:12:47.147" Score="10" ViewCount="208189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Ford Escape 2.3 L engine, there is a knocking type sound as soon as the engine is started and the speed of the &quot;knocking&quot; follows the RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I be sure that it is in fact a rod knocking and not something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T21:57:35.193" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T12:40:28.307" Title="How can I be sure that a rod knock is actually a rod knocking?" Tags="|engine|ford|noise|escape|knock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29547" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:16:01.400" Score="5" ViewCount="3947" Body="&lt;p&gt;My truck has been making a knocking noise upon acceleration. Today the knocking is constant and louder. What could this be?  Pistons? Oil sludge?  New motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T21:57:06.130" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T16:20:38.060" Title="2003 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 engine knock" Tags="|engine|dodge|truck|ram|knock|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29546" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:35:04.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3.7 is notorious for having a rocker arm fall off and or lifters collapsing. This is usually accompanied by a check engine light being illuminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a stethoscope or a long screw driver and try to isolate where the knock is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's coming from a valve cover, remove the valve cover and you're likely to find a rocker laying around. If this is true you need to thoroughly inspect the valve train components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T21:42:38.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T21:42:38.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29545" CreationDate="2016-05-10T21:56:04.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;When you start the engine and you hear the sound, does it sound better after the vehicle is warmed up?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rod knock will only sound worse (louder) as the engine heats up. It will not go away as the engine gets warmer. If it does, it is probably something like an exhaust leak which closes itself as the engine manifolds get warm. The opposite could be true as well, where the noise comes on after it gets warmed up, but usually when it happens like this, it is pretty evident where an exhaust leak is at due to excessive soot buildup (black marking) at the leak on the exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Has the noise stayed the same over time?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rod knock will only get worse over time. If the noise is a light tap which has only stayed the same, it may be lifter/tappet/cam noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If there is an oil pressure gauge, did the pressure go up when you first heard the noise, then become much lower than it should be?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause of a rod knock is usually due to a spun rod bearing (could also just be a worn out bearing over time, but much less common). If the bearing spins inside its home in the large end of the connecting rod, oil pressure will first go up, due to less flow of oil where there normally would be. Then as the bearing quickly wears down, the oil flow will be much more due to there being a much larger clearance and an easy path for the oil to follow. The pressure going up at first may not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; hold true, but you will see a large loss of oil pressure in a short period of time. How much? It depends on the engine and the amount of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What were you doing at the time of the start of the noise?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, a spun bearing happens because either you were doing something stupid with an old engine (revving an engine with 200k miles on it up to redline) or you ran it dry of oil. They can spontaneously spin the bearing, but that is not very common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rod knocks are very uncommon in engines where there is low mileage. Also, consider the maintenance history of the engine. If the oil was changed every 3k miles with a new filter, it's a lot less likely to happen. Newer engines are designed to last a long time and usually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these are common items to consider with a rod knock, there is only one sure way to tell for sure and that is to tear the engine down. If you drive the engine long enough with a spun bearing, you can expect sooner or later to cause catastrophic damage to the engine with a rod being thrown through the side of the block, at which point you'll be in for much worse than a rebuild, but a replacement (plus, there'll be a huge mess to clean up). More than likely if you consider it is to be a rebuild, you should probably just look for a decent used motor to replace it. The cost will be much cheaper in the long run. You'll need to know the service history of an engine prior to purchase, but it will probably outlast the vehicle at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T21:56:04.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2016-05-10T22:02:09.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the shifter assembly and that fixed both issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:02:09.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29545" CreationDate="2016-05-10T23:48:57.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference between a rod knock, wrist pin or piston slap in the early stages even when using a mechanics stethoscope. A main knock is a deeper sound that is more pronounced at the bottom of the block as apposed to the top when using a stethoscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard knocks that happen at startup and don't go away are a sure sign it is an early failure and oil related to a rod or main bearing. Piston slap against the cylinder wall and wrist pin knocks will often improve after warm up and get worse with engine rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a trained ear with a stethoscope to diagnose this problem with any accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rod or main knocks will get more pronounced with increased miles on the engine, they will get much louder sooner than piston slap or wrist pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pre-ignition or Detonation&lt;/a&gt; can mimic these knock sounds, and is a subject by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2022-07-29T12:40:28.307" LastActivityDate="2022-07-29T12:40:28.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2016-05-11T00:49:19.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from a country that does not have regulations on the minimum tire tread needed for a vehicle to be on the road and we routinely drive well past the wear indicators until they resemble slicks. On dry roads there is no issues except for slight risk of blow out at highway speeds. On wet roads quite dangerous. Deadly at highway speeds. Drive on those tires in dry weather but find alternative transport in wet unless you are driving at around 40-50 km/h and dont take bends fast &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9178" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T00:49:19.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T01:31:17.387" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first car, a Chevy Cavalier 2000 base, and I would like to put in a new radio, a decent amp and sub to drive the speakers and sub. I am right now looking at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KMBT315/Kenwood-KMM-BT315U.html?tp=5684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;radio&lt;/a&gt;. I would like to have a LOT of power and bass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a 6 channel amp because the radio is 6 channel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I connect the stock speakers to the amp, or can I connect them to the radio directly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do hook everything up, can I find a wiring diagram somewhere for what I am trying to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new and have absolutely no idea and am looking for guidance for how to have an awesome sound system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:14:42.343" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:14:42.343" Title="Best way to add amp and sub to car" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|audio|cavalier|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-12T02:56:06.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T03:22:03.600" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolant is hot and bubbling.  The car is not overheating. I changed the water pump, the thermo sensor, thermostat and intake gaskets.  Not sure if it sealed completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering, is it the head gasket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to do the test but it doesn't work because there's no cap on the radiator. The only cap to to check it is on the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17260" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T04:52:34.020" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T07:25:42.813" Title="2006 Chevy impla 3.5" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|cooling-system|overheating|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29560" CreationDate="2016-05-11T03:39:28.523" Score="4" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the wiring harness on my jet boat. It has a Ford 460 in it. The boat has five gauges on it. A tachometer, oil pressure, amperage, fuel gauge, and water temp. There is also a toggle switch which powers the ignition and a push button used to crank over the motor. Lastly there are two toggles. One for the bilge pump and one for the fuel pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all pretty straight forward from what I can tell. I would basically simply replace the wire there with new stuff and call it done. But there are a couple things I wanted to be clear on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the boat had a fiberglass hull, I must run my ground back to the negative of the battery. All my gauges have a signal stud, power stud, and ground stud. Power because they're illuminated. &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Can I daisy chain my power wires, and daisy chain my ground wires on each gauge?&lt;/strong&gt; Meaning can I daisy the ground from gauge 1 to gauge 2, then gauge 2 to gauge 3 and so on? Then do the same for my power wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T08:11:57.297" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T08:11:57.297" Title="Re-wiring Harness in Jet Boat w/ Ford 460" Tags="|power|wiring|gauges|boat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29564" CreationDate="2016-05-11T03:50:13.263" Score="7" ViewCount="2296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to get a cam gear cap/bolt thing off a 2000 Volvo S80 2.9l and stripped the torx pattern out of a bolt. I'd guess it's around 1-1/2&quot; in diameter, and this is what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAdyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAdyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;volvo cam gear cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried other things like using JB Weld to hold a torx bit in and cutting a slot in the cap and trying to use a hammer and screwdriver to turn it but nothing has worked so far. Besides drilling it out, the only other thing I can think of is welding a nut to it (don't have enough room to fit a normal sized drill and bit in there anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever tack welded for a job I had and they set everything up for me. I'm not sure what amperage or the kind of sticks I need. I definitely don't want to blow through the cap, or weld it to what's behind it. It needs a strong weld, because it doesn't want to come loose for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What kind of amperage and sticks needed to weld a nut to a stripped cap/bolt?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can someone provide me with some direction on how to get this done successfully?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17259" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T05:01:28.533" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:06:30.623" Title="What kind of amperage and sticks needed to weld a nut to a stripped cap/bolt?" Tags="|tools|stuck-bolt|welding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29553" CreationDate="2016-05-11T05:37:43.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The head unit will supply enough power to the stock speakers. You will not need to amplify the signal. Doing so will likely blow the speakers. If you replace your stock speakers with higher wattage speakers, you may need an amp with the channels to power these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A one or two channel (bridgeable) amp is sufficient for the subwoofer(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had a system, 2-500w 12 inch subs with a 1000w single-channel amp, and 4-100w 6x9s with a 400w 4-channel amp was much more than enough for me. But, I guess this can be subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a cheaper line of Rockford Fosgates for the 6x9s. They sounded a little tinny, but were loud. I used 2 Jenson 12s in a bandpass box, also very loud (turning system up was like getting a message), but not as deep as a 15&quot; could have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just going to add the head-unit, subwoofer(s), and leave the stock speakers in, you need a wiring harness to hook up the head-unit to the stock speaker wires. The wiring harness should come with a diagram. Then you will want to run one or two RCA cables from head unit to the trunk into the amp. Then run a large amp power cable from the battery to the trunk somehow. Depending on the car, running the cables to the trunk can be a little complicated, with plenty of opportunities to mess stuff up, so you may want to have a professional installation from a place that has a good reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17259" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T05:37:43.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T06:07:58.633" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a BMW 525i, recently hasn't been starting up, I drove to see my friends once and was fine, when I left them I try to start and would not dare to start, so checked on the radiator, the was no water. But it never showed any signs of heating up, I put water on, tried and never moved, I tried taking a metal stick and hitting the starter and it now clicking and I can see the engine wanting to turn but won't, can anyone help me please, I replace a battery, and my car is automatic. What could the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17262" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:25:13.667" Title="My car wouldn't start" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29556" CreationDate="2016-05-11T06:09:05.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know what each gauge is rated at for current carrying capacity?  I would think a daisy chain is fine as long as the wire gauge is large enough. Don't neglect to use the same gauge of wire for both power(DC+) and ground.   I'd look at the specs for each display gauge, add a bit of safety margin, then add the current up and calculate the wire gauge based on current carrying capacity.  Shouldn't be a problem at all for those signals (Note in high tech digital communications devices I'd have separate grounds.. Not a big deal here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6sPP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6sPP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Daisy Chain wiring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty common.  There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/257756-daisy-chain-question.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some who argue against it&lt;/a&gt;, but I think its fine in your case.  If you want you could add a junction box (terminal blocks) near the displays, then route one black and one red from the battery to the Junction box, and then separate wires to each gauge, but I don't think that really matters much. Generally access to the back of the panels in a boat is pretty easy (as compared to working in a car's instrument panel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5y0wF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5y0wF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;terminal block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, if you did add terminal blocks near the gauges, that would enable you to do almost all the wiring (and solder and heat shrink) work comfortably at your work bench instead of working in the boat in an uncomfortable position.  In this case you'd have two terminal blocks, one for 12V+ and one for Ground.  Then you'd have individual wires from the gauges to the terminal blocks. You would do the daisy chain at the terminal blocks, with only one wire each running back to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T06:36:39.497" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T06:36:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29555" CreationDate="2016-05-11T07:06:34.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you've replace a bunch of coolant related components and you want to know if anything leaks? You can borrow a coolant pressure tester from you local autoparts store in many locations (leave a deposit).  You will place the tester on the fill cap (no matter where it is), pump up the pressure and then note the pressure on the gauge.  Give it a few hours, come back and check the pressure.  Is it lower than when you filled it?  If so, that means a leak.  Hopefully you can see the leak from one of the hoses, from a hose joint, from the radiator.  If you have a leaky heater core you will see coolant coming out of the heating ventilation Air conditioning (HVAC) drain down low on the engine side of steel dash panel (right in front of the front seat passenger).  Do check under the car carefully for bleed down leaks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pressure at the tester decays, and you can't find the leak, check for coolant in the oil.  This is bad, as it means either a head gasket / sealing issue or a crack in the engine block is allowing coolant to leak inside the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mentioned that the coolant is hot and bubbling.  I presume you mean that when the coolant temperature gets to 212F (100°C) that the coolant boils.  Yes that is normal.  Put the cap on the coolant system!  That cap has a spring in it, that keeps the system pressurized to 13 psi or so.  At that pressure water doesn't boil until 242°F.   If you see (or test) that the temperature never gets above 212°F, then you will need a new coolant cap.  That seal / spring pressure thing is a big deal. I would expect a normal operating temperature for your coolant system to be from 180°F to 230°F or so (with a good radiator cap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I got that coolant bubbling thing wrong, and its bubbling at temperatures below 212°F that would be bad.  It would likely mean you have a crack in the engine or head gasket issue, and high pressure exhaust from the cylinder's combustion process is entering the engine coolant system, somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear on exactly what you are trying to communicate here.  You just said &quot;hot and bubbling&quot;.  One awesome tool to have is a thermometer.  I've used many different types (dial indicator, electronic) and broken each and every one of them.  They just don't last.  Best thermometer I ever had &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006T5AT88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;was this one.&lt;/a&gt;  It comes in this double aluminum container, such that the glass doesn't break if you drop it accidentally on pavement.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOnDl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOnDl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pocket Glass Thermometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use one of these to accurately communicate &quot;hot&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T07:25:42.813" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T07:25:42.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T14:01:59.823" Score="0" ViewCount="3018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one damaged tire that needs to be replaced on my BMW 320i year 2014. Can I buy only one new and expect no annoyances from RDC? The point being the old tire has a worn a couple of millimeters - and paired with a new (same make &amp;amp; model) one on the same axle, the circumference will be different on the two wheels. Any thoughts or ever better; hands on experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17265" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T07:34:24.873" Title="BMW Tyre pressure control system (RDC) - tire replacement" Tags="|tires|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29566" CreationDate="2016-05-11T14:39:49.850" Score="4" ViewCount="3541" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CEL is on and the code reads P0420 on a 2003 Vibe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are apparently three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-cat O2 sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-cat O2 sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAT model 51274&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most likely beyond my mechanical abilities (been bitten), but I'd like to get the part from a reputed maker (been bitten there too), and take it to my mechanic. Candidate parts appear to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AB Catalytic 51274.5 Catalytic Converter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BOSCH O2 Oxygen Sensor Pontiac Vibe GT 1.8L w/ UNIVERSAL WIRING to 1-4-wire sensor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track? How can I determine whether it's the pre- or the post- O2 sensor? Does it make sense to replace one of the O2 sensors first, and replace the cat if that doesn't turn the CEL off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:24:11.793" Title="Does P0420 on a Vibe result from a pre- or a post- O2 sensor?" Tags="|cel|p0420|vibe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29557" CreationDate="2016-05-11T17:06:30.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mig welder is what I use for welding nuts to broken fasteners, 100-120 amps or better should do it on that size bolt. Stick welder about the same amps, use a 6013 rod, 6011 for better penetration if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My amp recommendations are general in nature, you want the most heat and penetration you can get quickly without melting the nut completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:06:30.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29559" CreationDate="2016-05-11T17:25:13.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either the starter is bad, or the engine overheated severely and has galded the pistons causing it to resist being turned by the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a new starter, if symptoms are the same, see how hard it is to turn the engine over using a breaker bar and socket, use the front crankshaft damper bolt to turn the engine clockwise, can you turn it fairly easily? If not the engine has seized due to severe overheating, time for a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what happens when a piston gets too hot and galling happens, metal from the piston is transferred to the cylinder walls and seizes the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bc7wl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bc7wl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:25:13.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29563" CreationDate="2016-05-11T17:56:56.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Dealing with mechanics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to take it to a mechanic anyway, you are probably better off letting that same mechanic do the diagnosis and obtaining the correct part(s). Bringing parts and a diagnosis to a mechanic is likely to get as warm a reception as bringing your own eggs and raw bacon to a restaurant and asking them to cook you breakfast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Doing it yourself&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, replacing an O2 sensor isn't usually that difficult.  The first thing to check for is actually leaks in the catalytic converter or the exhaust pipes and headers. A leak ahead of both O2 sensors will &quot;look&quot; to the computer like this problem and replacing the cat or sensors will just waste money on the wrong fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can look at the voltage levels on both the front sensor (pre-cat) and the rear sensor (post-cat).  The front one should vary quite a bit and the rear one much less so.  If you only have a voltmeter, you might be able to check the voltage while the engine is running.  It should go from about 0.1V (lean) to about 0.9V (rich).  You can &#xA;usually force the mixture to go lean by removing a vacuum line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also visually check the O2 sensors.  If either one has got dirt or oil on it, it's probably due for replacement anyway.  I've read some that say that they should be replaced every 100K miles anyway, but I'm not sure if that's really necessary on a well-maintained vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a 'scope and you're willing to take a (possibly wrong) guess, I'd start with the post-cat O2 sensor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:56:56.383" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29563" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:24:11.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four things can throw this P0420 code, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad catalytic converter &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bad upstream O2, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bad downstream O2, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fuel ratio problem, rich or lean, which can be even more complicated to sort out as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suggested in the article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:24:11.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:33:51.693" Score="4" ViewCount="3913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vexing problem and so far two mechanics and the dealer haven't been able to solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will crank and crank and crank but will not start. On the initial crank the fuel pump will come on, the injectors will fire &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt; and then nothing. No check engine light or other indictors of a problem. It's as if the PCM is seeing (or not seeing) something it doesn't like and shutting down the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I (and various mechanics) have done. Tested and replaced the CKP and CMP sensors and tested continuity from the various plugs to the ECU pins. Hooking up a scanner yields the not-very-helpful P0340 code which another dealer says can occur if you continue to crank while it doesn't start. Timing was inspected and adjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have led to this was removal of the valve cover to replace a leaking gasket. My instinct says this probably caused a short or open wire but I haven't found that to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on the next steps to take here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17271" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T05:31:38.187" Title="2006 Mazda 5 2.3L cranks but no start" Tags="|mazda|electronic-control-module|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:53:20.473" Score="5" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Ford Taurus its been good, only needed a new starter and new brakes besides the standard service in the 6-7 yrs since I got it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High RPM in idle, need to ride brake to keep speed under control (anything I can do 'bout that?).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dying&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At least one bad spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With all these problems and lots of trips to the mechanic but still acting up would it make sense to get a &quot;new used&quot; car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 7 Jan 2016 hit. Since then it has been in the shop 5 times. Once towed and once it died on top of the hill and I managed to coast in. The others I drove in. Fixed everytime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then 2 weeks ago it died when I shifted into park. Took it in they said it was the idler however its spelled. $93.04 dollars ok good. Ever since then its had power I mean like 2000 RPM in park, 2800-3000 RPM when in drive ok so not that high but remember this is a stock Taurus with no mods. When I come to a stop sign/light and put my foot on the brake I can feel it pulling well not moving but its like I have to push down hard just to keep it from moving. Once I let up I am gone. Also its quickly accelerates to about 50 mph and then slowly climbs that is if its going uphill, downhill is another story all without my foot on the gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like that much power due to me living in Arkansas which has some sorry excuses for roads that have 90 degree curves on CLIFFS. Oh and I have to pass though a 25 mph school zone coming from work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it died on me in drive luckily I was in a parking lot with my foot on the brake for about 3 minutes. Then a few days later I tried to start it and it would not start. The next day I tried it again and it started no problem. Took it to the shop they looked it for about 35 mins and said they didn't know what was wrong with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today i looked at it and found a spark plug burned out. So i am thinking thats one problem but I don't know. I am thinking about getting another cause one problem after the other but it will have to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17272" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-20T17:41:41.843" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:41:41.843" Title="High acceleration and dying when brake is pressed" Tags="|rpm|acceleration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-09-21T11:33:25.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T20:44:45.863" Score="6" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;What spark plug should I be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my own tune up and the guy at auto advance told me to get some Bosch spark plugs for my car but then I notice less power. A mechanic told me I shouldn't have bought them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can you please help me please? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T23:41:16.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T23:41:16.003" Title="2008 Grand Prix GPX" Tags="|ignition|sparkplugs|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:05:34.517" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just that the engine struggles to put out more power, with a lot of roughness in the engine sound post 50 kmph - What might be the problem? The recommended engine oil is 10w30 for this, but i've been running it on a 10w40 and 20w40 of late due to lack of good quality oils in 10w30 grade. Using semi-synthetics so far. Regularly serviced for the past half year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The period before that, the engine had an oil leakage problem from the oil gauge (oil pouring opening) and it seemed like the engine isn't maintained that well prior to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think the piston rings are worn out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this bike bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More Info : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indiancarsbikes.in/motorcycles/honda-twister-cb-110-specifications-price-colors-423/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2010 Model CB Twister&lt;/a&gt; - This is a carburetor model&#xA;with 4 gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This happens when i seek to hit the higher rev ranges&#xA;of the bike.  When i shift from 2nd to 3rd gear, i can tell that the 3rd gear seems a bit worn out, since it is very rough in the 3rd, but smooth in the fourth until we reach say, the 4th gear's upper range and it gets really rough then. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike doesn't have a RPM meter so tough to say exact numbers - but safe to say that this roughness gets encountered in the mid-higher rev ranges, especially in the upper range of the final gear (4th) when it does seem like the bike can deliver more, it gets really rough, and contrived, as if the engine has to do a lot of work to put out power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17276" LastEditorUserId="17276" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T07:02:33.813" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T17:39:14.363" Title="6 YO Honda CB Twister 100 cc bike delivers rough (struggles to keep pulling) power output post 40-50 kmph" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|engine-load|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20839" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:20:43.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of searching - I've found that nowhere in the manuals of warranty the engine oil grade is mentioned, i've also looked thru several forums where 10w40 to 20w40 grade of oil is recommended for TVS APACHE RTR 160 bikes by expert bikers and mechanics alike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the manual - which seems to be a recent upload by TVS motor. Their collaboration with BMW seems to be bringing a lot of improvement and best practices, both to bikes, service and sales, as well as customer relations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil you are supposed to use for the Apache series is TVS TRU4 Synthetic or TVS TRU4 premium SAE 10w30 API-SL JASO MA2 standard oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zgidw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zgidw.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Page of the Owners manual with a footnote on the ideal engine oil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find it on page 01 of this document : &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tvsmotor.com/pdf/Manuals-Apache-RTR-160-NEW.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apache 160 Hyper Edge Owners Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do let me know if you have any questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17276" LastEditorUserId="17276" LastEditDate="2018-06-28T00:34:06.227" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T00:34:06.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29576" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:01:14.813" Score="4" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a service call for a 2003 Vibe, the underbelly of the glove compartment looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXqtv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXqtv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underbelly of glove compartment&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see in bottom left of the image, one plug is missing. Also the white mechanical part seems too delicate to have been left exposed at the factory. Did a cover for this section just go missing? If you have an '03 Vibe, could you share a photograph of what you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T23:37:48.427" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:02:01.833" Title="Am I missing a cover in the underbelly of the glove compartment?" Tags="|pontiac|vibe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29570" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:35:22.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mitchell shows original equipment plugs are ACDelco 41-962 for the 5.3, which are double platinum plugs. Plug gap is 0.040&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used nor sold Bosch plugs before. From talking to people, I've never heard anything good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the plug gap is correct and that the wires are fully seated. If you still feel that the car is not performing as well as it was. Try buying different plugs. It may also be a good time to change the spark plug wires if you haven't yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T22:35:22.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29573" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:46:23.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks normal for a Vibe the only cover should be over the blower motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the missing plug I believe it's a white or black plastic retainer with a large flange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vThlN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vThlN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20478294&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T00:02:01.833" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:02:01.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29578" CreationDate="2016-05-11T23:22:27.570" Score="7" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gather that the &lt;strong&gt;upstream&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor is the one right in the center of this picture. I also gather that the catalytic converter (the &quot;cat&quot;) is the bulbous part of the exhaust right behind this sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUuSZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUuSZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;upstream&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Does the cat consist of just this one part or does it include the second 'bulb' in the exhaust that appears in this second picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXeVC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXeVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;midstream&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: This third picture shows the section closest to the tail pipe. I can't spot the &lt;strong&gt;downstream&lt;/strong&gt; O2 sensor. Can you suggest where I should be looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kq3yq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kq3yq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;downstream&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:00:02.460" Title="Locating the O2 sensors and the cat along the exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29577" CreationDate="2016-05-11T23:31:50.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picture 1 is the downstream 02 sensor. Upstream is located on the exhaust manifold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Picture 1 contains both convertors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture 2 is the exhaust resonator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T00:00:02.460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:00:02.460" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:24:00.870" Score="4" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just back from GM Goodwrench for an airbag recall. The part in question is as you see in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13D3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13D3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like a fresh break, and the repair required pealing the carpet partly back, but I cannot &lt;em&gt;prove&lt;/em&gt; that they did this break during this repair. My near certainty only comes from having rarely needed any maintenance on the car, and, aside from another factory recall (about ten years ago, for unsecured side windows), I always went to a mechanic who let me hang around and watch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it particularly nasty that the mechanic at Goodwrench wouldn't tell me that it's broken (I noticed it later). I went back to talk to him because he had left another plug nearby unattached with the carpet loose. If he just handed me the plug and the broken plastic part, I could use some glue and put it back together. I like to treat my car nicely, and, even if it advances in age, would like to keep it intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering. Is this sort of thing normal at a mechanic (and the official one no less) and I should just keep my fingers crossed that replacing the airbag ECM and inflator (the subjects of the recall) have actually been completed properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:14:05.603" Title="What action to take when GM Goodwrench breaks something?" Tags="|gm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-05-15T12:38:59.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29582" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:29:29.317" Score="7" ViewCount="5856" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone suggest me how to remove the clips/pins behind the emblem of the front grille of a Honda Civic 2014 EX Sedan. I wanna replace the grille because it's cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw many tutorials in youtube where people break these pins to replace it by a red limited edition emblem, but this new one is glued and not hooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this emblem be removed safely to put it in another grille?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips, links or videos please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EY4j0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EY4j0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:34:12.860" Title="How to remove the clips of the Honda Emblem. Safely" Tags="|honda|civic|parts|body|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29581" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:34:12.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a flat thin small screwdriver, you should be able to wiggle under it and pry up a little bit, then move to the opposite side of the same fastener and do the same thing. Working back and forth should bring it off of the pin without issue. The fastener thing may end up a little bent, but as long as the pin is okay, I'd suggest you'd be in good shape. This may be a little bit harder considering the fasteners are recessed, but you should still be able to get at it in this method without too much of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T00:34:12.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29585" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:42:22.530" Score="7" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace a front grille of Honda Civic 2014 EX Sedan (4 doors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been suggested to buy it from this auto part dealer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4893525&amp;amp;cc=3306145&amp;amp;jsn=403&amp;amp;jsn=403&quot;&gt;RockAuto&lt;/a&gt; which has a great catalog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the part in &quot;CAPA&quot; and &quot;Economy line&quot; in stock. I would really like to buy an OEM but they don't have it and other websites including ebay sell the OEM for 300$. So expensive. So, I'm pretty close to buy the grille in the CAPA version, but how close/far it is from the OEM version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a feedback of this kind of quality levels? Real pros and cons. Suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part number 71121 TR3 A010 M1, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastEditorUserId="11353" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T00:48:40.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T01:10:53.307" Title="Benchmark about quality levels in car parts" Tags="|honda|civic|parts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16703" CreationDate="2016-05-12T01:07:48.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are they directional tires? The one with arrow on the sidewall indicating the direction of rotation like with some brands of snow tires. If they are not installed with the arrows facing toward the front they would act as you describe. At slow speeds they would throw you side to side and be very hard to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T01:07:48.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29583" CreationDate="2016-05-12T01:10:53.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the part you are buying is CAPA Certified, you can be guaranteed it will have the same level of fit and finish as an OEM part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.capacertified.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Certified Auto Parts Association (CAPA)&lt;/a&gt; is an independent testing organization which does just that for vehicle parts. As long as it is certified, you are guaranteed the part will work just like the original. All you have to do is look for the CAPA seal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHNw5.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KHNw5.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T01:10:53.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29594" CreationDate="2016-05-12T02:17:44.667" Score="9" ViewCount="7651" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2014 Toyota Corolla with a little under 30,000 miles. A few months ago some road debris resulted in a punctured tire (rear passenger side). We had the tire fixed, but found out that they plugged it and didn't actually patch it like we thought. Since it leaks air when it gets really cold, we went to another shop to see if they could replace the plug with a patch, and said we should replace the entire tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic insists that we only need to replace the one tire, saying its only the rear and that the other tire has minimal wear. I know you should normally change tires in 4s or at least in 2s on the same axle. The tires are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/tires/products/primacy-mxv4.html&quot;&gt;primacy MXV4&lt;/a&gt;, which has a 60k miles warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 30k miles, I assume that the tires cannot really be like new, even though the car is just for commuting. I am also concerned about how this impacts syncing up with future tires changes for the other tires. I would rather change both and keep the rear driver side as a full spare rather then rely on the donut. I was willing to pay for more tires+service, so I assume if the mechanic is trying to talk me out of it, he has a good reason (why would he not want to make more money?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any validity to his point of view? Or should I insist on giving him more money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The replacement tire is the same type/size as the stock tires on the other 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17279" LastEditorUserId="17279" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T02:28:13.380" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T01:04:05.543" Title="Tire Replacement - 30k mile, mechanic says its okay to only replace one?" Tags="|tires|replacements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21982" CreationDate="2016-05-12T02:36:14.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left it for another couple of months in a well ventilated area without riding, and lo and behold, it stopped leaking. Turned out that it may have been high fume/pressure in the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T02:36:14.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29589" CreationDate="2016-05-12T03:31:58.593" Score="5" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front brake lever on my 1998 Honda VFR is coming back way too close to the grip. This is since it came out of winter storage in April. It's an adjustable lever and I've changed it from 3 or so to the maximum. The brake fluid isn't low and the pads are meaty enough. The brakes feel fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just need to bleed it or replace the fluid, or could there be something else going on here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16338" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T03:54:37.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T04:19:18.080" Title="Motorcycle front brake lever too close to grip" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|brakes|brake-fluid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29588" CreationDate="2016-05-12T04:19:18.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It seems as though the plunger in the master cylinder isn't retracting after use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally when motorcycles are stored you can run into this problem.  Older brake fluid along with a bit of moisture and oxygen can contribute to a buildup of material inside the master cylinder bore where the plunger goes.  After pulling the brake once the plunger sticks and doesn't retract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove the plunger from the master cylinder by removing a circlip that retains the plunger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the plunger and clean the master cylinder.  Use water and no petroleum based cleaners.  The seals are designed for DOT 4 which will mix with water, petroleum products create a high risk of damage to some of the rubber seals and o-rings.  You can use a que tip to get in there a bit more or just a paper towel wrapped around a chopstick.  Once you have cleaned everything.  Reassemble with a bit of DOT 4 brake fluid as a lubricant for the plunger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will obviously need to bleed your breaks upon completion.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mityvac&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=663&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjRg8751tPMAhVJxGMKHbejA6YQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;dpr=1.5&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These little vacuum pumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; are cheap and make the job considerably easier rather than sitting and pulling that lever hoping your going to get that initial air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2ad7f870023420a30ef3/front-brake-master-cylinder&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a parts explosion of the master cylinder.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  You didn't indicate 750 or 800 or a particular version so I just used the 750 for this example.  They are all the same master cylinder essentially.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T04:19:18.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29562" CreationDate="2016-05-12T07:34:24.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two types of tire pressure control systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The simpler and cheaper one compares the average rotational speed of all four wheels, which is already measured by the  anti-lock system. If pressure is low on one tire, the tire will bulge and sit a bit deeper on the road. The effective radius / circumference is smaller, and so the average rotational speed is higher compared to the others. This system advises you to check the tire pressure, but doesn't know it. Also, it doesn't notice if all tires are on the same, too low pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A completely worn tire can have 7-8mm less radius than a new tire (for normal cars), and the pressure control system will for sure trigger. However, nobody knows where the exact threshold is. A small difference may not trigger the system, but reduces the sensitivity to real pressure loss on the bigger wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;better&quot; one has a pressure sensors in each wheel, and transmits the data wireless. While this is quite expensive, it gives exact pressure values and does not rely on rotational speed. You could mount completely different tires and won't get a pressure warning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmw.com/com/en/owners/accessories/tyre_pressure_control_system/?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Since March 2014, all new BMWs are equipped with the second system&lt;/a&gt;, so you won't get pressure warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, wheels with different tread depth on one axle can be dangerous in extreme situations, as they can have different traction. Depending on how much the old tires have worn, I would buy one or two tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T07:34:24.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6515" CreationDate="2016-05-12T12:48:12.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both VIN numbers relate to 2005 vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bear in mind that FIAT group manufacture Iveco vehicles (although in the UK at least they are sold through the Ford dealer network), you can simply apply a FIAT VIN decode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I used specifically was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Fiat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T12:48:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29586" CreationDate="2016-05-12T13:02:14.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: As this is a front wheel drive car and you're taking about replacing one of the rear tires, it sounds like you'll be fine replacing a single tire.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key facts of your situation are that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're driving a front wheel drive car without a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_(mechanical_device)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;differential&lt;/a&gt; to worry about in the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your tires are long-lived commute-only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given those two points, I'd expect that you're installer is correct that you only need the one tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important reason is the fact you don't have a differential to worry about in the rear. If your tires have slightly different circumferences due to uneven wear, it might cause a slightly different track down the road but it won't break anything mechanical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in contrast with AWD cars like mine, for example, where all the wheels are connected at some level. On my car, I car hear mechanical complaining if I over inflate the rear tires by a few psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about the uneven wear, you can easily check it yourself. Take an American penny (or the local equivalent) to the good rear tire and stick the penny in between the tread blocks at the outer edge, the middle and the inner edge of the traction surface. Make a note of what you see: can you see all of Abe's hair?  None?  Compare each of those measurements with the new tire. Are there blatant differences?  Can you see Abe's while head on one tire but his nose is hidden in the other?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't easily see significant wear differences, you are probably fine replacing just the one tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you were feeling fancy, it isn't the worst idea to replace both of those rear tires and save the worn one as a garage spare for the next time you have one go bad on you. That is, of course, dependent on your garage situation. I currently have four winter tires on wheels in my garage and I've reached the limits of spouse tolerance. Your mileage may vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T01:04:05.543" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T01:04:05.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29596" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:36:29.160" Score="20" ViewCount="14493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a few problems that might be electrical in my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as mechanics always want to replace parts first, I'm having to diagnose this problem myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like replacing all the fuses would be cheap and preventative, and more effective than a voltmeter with my limited knowledge of electrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2004 1.7L Honda Civic Si, the US version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this cause problems for my car? Would it help with the diagnosis? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16874" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:48:30.930" Title="Should I replace fuses as a part of regular maintenance?" Tags="|honda|electrical|fuse|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29595" CreationDate="2016-05-12T14:47:37.867" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuses do not need to be replaced unless they have blown, so it's not a regular maintenance thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of checking them, depending on your vehicle, many only require a visual check to see if the metal is present or missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have fuses where their status is not obvious, a good multimeter is only a few dollars (probably cheaper than replacing all the fuses, anyway) - and you will find it useful round the house, and for other small jobs once you have one. Make sure you get a reputable brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing all the fuses should not &lt;strong&gt;cause&lt;/strong&gt; any problems with your car, unless you get the fuses wrong, or don't fully seat them etc. On balance, much better off just testing them all with a meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T13:48:30.930" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:48:30.930" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29474" CreationDate="2016-05-12T15:11:14.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to own a VW and it looks like a switch cover like for flashers,heater, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T15:11:14.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2016-05-12T15:39:53.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1166 indicates a blown or malfunctioning heater core fuse. I know that O2 sensors have resistive elements inside that are activated when the engine is cold. O2 sensors operate more efficiently when they are hot. The heater element is on until the engine is at normal operating temp then it switched off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1167 is the upstream O2 sensor just before the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is anything like a evap code where the computer has to relearn the sensors parameters under varying load conditions by doing tests etc. Then after 3-5 hours down time depending on ambient temp it resets itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T15:39:53.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29595" CreationDate="2016-05-12T16:12:43.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general maintenance practice or a troubleshooting method without having a particular reasoned approach, no.  If it's troubleshooting, testing the fuses on their exposed blade tips is equivalent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, replacing the fuses shouldn't create any risks so long as you're replacing them with the appropriate values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be pointed out that fuses can exhibit cumulative degradation due to short-term overcurrents which were insufficient to open the fuse. This can reduce the fusing current, but until the fuse actually opens, it's not going to be producing any problem symptoms itself. Even if this were a concern, replacing the fuse wouldn't fix the source of underlying periodic overcurrents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other contexts, (e.g. large mains cartridge fuses), the fuse body is filled with an arc suppression filler such as calcium carbonate.  In damp environments, this can absorb moisture and cause corrosion of the fuse elements.  In these cases, maintenance fuse replacement might be a valid stop-gap approach to avoid replacement of the protection equipment.  There aren't any filled fuses in typical automotive applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17291" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T16:12:43.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29616" CreationDate="2016-05-12T16:47:55.730" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to rebuild the jet pump on a 1992 boston whaler rage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a putty like substance on the hardware I removed directly from the hull, I assume it is used to waterproof the bolt holes in the hull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please confirm what this substance is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T02:20:04.910" Title="Hardware Installation on Fiberglass boat" Tags="|boat|fibreglass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29602" CreationDate="2016-05-12T16:57:22.017" Score="16" ViewCount="5369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this question for a long time, can I assume that a 1000 CC engine is able to hold a liter (1L) of water content?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if my understanding is correct, so I can understand more....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T04:23:17.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T12:19:57.713" Title="What does a liter class engine mean?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29601" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:09:34.267" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1000cc is the displacement of the engine. That means the total volume of all combustion chambers which is the area of all the cylinders times the length of the piston travel in the cylinder. Here is a picture of what that means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2Oer.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2Oer.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Displacement example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image comes directly from Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image the orange region shows the volume measured by the displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine displacement may be measured in cubic centimeters (cc) or liters (L),  but it has nothing to do with how much liquid the engine can hold. I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T12:08:10.927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T12:08:10.927" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:37:27.670" Score="5" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having this question from long back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using N2 for my tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few KM (say some 3-4 KMs), measuring the PSI, shows a less pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether, due to the increase in the temperature in the tyre, the density or the pressure is decreased?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is so, will it escape from the tyre, I mean the tyre pressure will be reduced easily??&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The same thing will happen for the tyre with the normal air&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having a tyre with tube when compared to tubeless, will resolve this problem.&#xA;(I am not going to change it from tubeless to tube)..&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The loss of air is directly proportional to heat of the tyre, or it will lose it molecule after some days/months..&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got hanged up with this questions. Please help me to understand the things better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS:-&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Hi I am measuring the pressure in the hot tire (I mean, I am doing it immediately after the ride in the fuel station). But I have noticed as, Lets take the following case :- 1. Before 1 Month I have checked the PSI for the tyre and it says, some 28 PSI and 17 PSI (for rear and front) and I will fill it up to 35PSI and 25PSI respectively. After some 20-25 days or even a month ride, I have checked that it is saying close to 27-28 for rear and some 15-17 for the front. All I am doing in the hot tyre. This makes me little confused. Why it is showing less PSI in hot tyre.? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance friends...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="17293" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T13:15:50.223" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:15:50.223" Title="Tire showing low pressure after few KMs of ride" Tags="|tires|temperature|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29615" CreationDate="2016-05-12T19:27:49.330" Score="9" ViewCount="3603" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really a maintenance question, but I figured this would be a good place to ask. I have a life hammer in the glove compartment, but I'm having doubts about where to store it. I figure that if I'm ever in a situation where I need the hammer to cut my seatbelt, I won't be able to reach inside the glove box to get it. I am, however, reluctant to keep it out in the open, because it's exactly the sort of heavy pointy thing you don't want to have flying around in your car during a crash. I thought about securing it with Velcro straps somehow, but I'm not sure if they'll hold or be a pain to loosen in an emergency situation. What's the best place to store it, and how does one secure it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17240" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T14:28:27.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T14:28:27.837" Title="What's the best place to safely store a life hammer?" Tags="|safety|tips-and-tricks|accident|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29600" CreationDate="2016-05-12T19:52:15.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably Marine Sealant, eg. &lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3293241623&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3293241623&amp;amp;rt=rud&lt;/a&gt; - Available at any DIY store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub1Rv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub1Rv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T19:52:15.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4208" CreationDate="2016-05-12T20:33:51.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is running, not only is this unsafe (front axles can spin, hitting your hands if the front is in the air or moving off the stands if the rear is up), but it drastically changes the pressure at which the fluid will shoot out of the calipers and shrink the time to close the bleeder screw before the pedal hits the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17298" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T20:49:50.563" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T20:49:50.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2016-05-12T22:27:52.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you don't have access to a scantool that can communicate with a Honda ECM and without bidirectional controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key On Engine Running (this may work Key On Engine off) disconnect the Air Fuel Ratio sensor connector. On the harness side connector Check for power on pin 4 (white). Check for ground on pin 3 (white/black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on pin 4. Locate the Primary Heater Control Relay in the passenger under dash fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fB6uN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fB6uN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull or backprobe the relay/connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pin 30 (red/blue) - pulls power from fuse 6 of the passenger under dash fuse box.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pin 87 (white) - is relay output to the ECM and AFR sensor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pin 86 (green/red) - is the relay coil control wire from the ECM.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pin 87a - is unused and may be blank.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pin 85 (black/yellow) - is the relay coil power, fuse 6 in the under hood fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pins 30 or 85 don't have power check their respective fuses. If the fuses are OK, check continuity between the fuse terminals and the relay pins. Repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ground on pin 86 backprobe pin 16 on the B connector at the ECM. If ground exists, check continuity on the circuit. Repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on pin 87 with the relay plugged in. Replace the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on pin 4 of the AFR sensor connector, but have power on pin 87 of the relay. Check continuity between relay pin 87 and AFR sensor connector pin 4. Repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pin 87 on the relay has power and pin 4 of the AFR sensor connector has power check for power at the ECM connector C pin 13 (white). If power exists and you have ground on pin 3 of the AFR sensor connector. Replace the AFR sensor first. If the code comes back replace the ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T22:27:52.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29603" CreationDate="2016-05-12T22:33:46.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think you have pressure loss on your bead, pressure sensor or Schrader valve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the tire holding N2 or straight atmospheric gasses, all of the same principles apply to pressure loss.  You need to have a good seal on all of the components of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bead of tire on rim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seal of any pressure sensors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seal of the Schrader valve &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seal of the valve stem on the Schrader valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have slow leaks in any of these places you can experience pressure reduction over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving on the tire will only heat it up and heat on any gas causes expansion.  N2 will have a lower expansion rate but expansion nonetheless.  You have a leak somewhere and that's what you need to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another post related to pressure loss of a tire over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27282/why-do-tyres-go-flat-after-a-few-weeks-of-non-usage/27283#27283&quot;&gt;Why do tyres go flat after a few weeks of non-usage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T22:33:46.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29595" CreationDate="2016-05-12T22:35:49.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace them all?  No.  As others have mentioned, they're either working or they're not.  Test them with a multimeter or fuse tester.  Be sure to look for &quot;fusible links&quot; in the wiring on a newer car, not all fuses are in the fuse box anymore for some unfathomable reason...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take them all out, one at a time, and clean them?  I've had that help on some vehicles.  It's especially worth the effort if your problems are intermittent.  Between vibration and corrosion it's quite possible for the connection between fuse and socket to become unreliable.  Pull it out, clean off the corrosion, coat the contacts with anti-oxidation grease like is commonly used in electrical panels, and put it back.  Should last quite nicely after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14342" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T22:35:49.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29612" CreationDate="2016-05-13T00:34:05.733" Score="5" ViewCount="7633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get really good deal on brake rotors and brake pads in a local auto part store. This type of 50% deal won't happen quite often on good brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I won't need a to change my brakes until 1-2 years from now. I am thinking to buy the parts with the good price available now, store them and use the parts in two years. Can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I stock brake rotors or brake pads for more than a year? Can I just store them in my garage or they need to be stored in a specific condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:17:46.357" Title="Can I stock brake rotors or brake pads for more than a year?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29611" CreationDate="2016-05-13T01:07:25.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I see no problem with this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads won't degrade with exposure to oxygen like steel with though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake discs have a lot of iron in them and have a tendency to rust.  There is coating on them that prevents rust.  You could wipe them down with a bit oil and wrap them to prevent oxidation but in the end, even some rust on brake rotors is not terrible.   Cars sitting in rain get their rotors rusty all the time and the rust comes off on the first use of the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I don't see an issue with this and now that you mention it, when I find a good deal, I'll probably do the same thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T08:35:05.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T08:35:05.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29601" CreationDate="2016-05-13T02:16:44.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three common units used when measuring engine displacement. The two you've found are cubic centimeters (cc) and liters (L). There are 1000cc in a L so conversion between the two is fairly straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller engines are often measured in cc because it is awkward to talk about your .205L engine - instead you would refer to it as a 205cc engine. Once you have more than 1000cc it is often customary to switch to L as the unit of measure so my Volkswagen Jetta has a 2.0L TDI rather than a 2000cc and my sister's Mitsubishi Mirage has a 1.2L 3 cylinder engine rather than a 1200cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US automakers tend to use a combination of cubic inches and liters as a measure of displacement. The Ford Mustang sports a 302cid V8 engine which was also denoted as a 5.0L engine. The Chrysler 440cid V8 engine found in the 1970 Plymouth Barracuda displaced 7.2L. There are approximately 61 cubic inches in a liter so were my Mazda 2.3L (which is actually 2261cc - rounding!) engine found in a Ford Escort it might be denoted as having 138cid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you ask about is the configuration of the engine. V6 refers to an engine where there are 6 cylinders arranged with three on each side, forming a V shape as you look front to back. V8, V10, and V12 are similar, only the number of cylinders differ. This is contrasted with an inline cylinder arrangement such as the Mazda L4 engine which has 4 cylinders arranged vertically in a row, or the Chrysler slant 6 engine which has 6 cylinders arranged in a row but slanted at a 30° angle from vertical. There are other engine arrangements such as the flat 6 where cylinders are arranged opposite each other (see the boxer engine) and the wankel rotary engine (which doesn't even have cylinders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17271" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T02:16:44.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29604" CreationDate="2016-05-13T02:21:41.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you posted another question about an Aveo/Kalos i guess you are talking about that car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some come with the holder, with the possibility to attach it to the door or somewhere close to the knee but it can end being in the way and usually is too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a couple of bad accidents where the seatbelt locked and didn't slide anymore and I wouldn't have been able to reach too far if I wasn't able to just unbuckle it. Also don't plan on raising your arms over the head or bending sideways to grab it, after some accidents you wont be able to move like that (personal experience).&#xA;For these reasons its better to be a place you can reach sitting straight and with your back against the seat. You are right to think that close to the seatbelt buckle is a good spot: it is in reach, I think theres room in the Aveo, by just letting your arm fall at your side. The area is also reachable by a passenger and, if those are able to move, by the backseat passengers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiOqz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiOqz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that area some car seats have a small pocket, low on the side of the seat back towards the middle of the car, right above the plastic trim of the back adjustment knob... I don't think yours does but its easy to add one or sew in velcro loops using a curved needle. Eventually you can fashion something to attach it to that same seat plastic trim cover, or even between the cover and the seat padding (not completely tucked in there obviously), you might have to make a couple holes in the plastic to fix a pocket or loop but that's easy, if within reach you can directly use the same screws that keep the plastic trim attached to the seat.&#xA;Exactly how you make the holder depends on where you place the tool (and what kind it is) but I guess it could be even just a pocket or a pair of double  velcro loops held right against the side of the seatbelt buckle (made like an 8 one side holds the hammer and the loop on the other side grabs around the buckle).&#xA;As for holding, can be hit and miss, if the accident is bad everything that isn't directly bolted to the car just gets thrown around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way could be attach a fastex clip on the side of the seat (sewing one with a bit of webbing or using the surface mount kind that require no sewing, and there are the fast release &quot;one button&quot; fastex too) the other side of the clip is permanently attached to the hammer, you just unclip and use it as needed, that would hold it there... There are tons of ways, just maintain it practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about pockets: there are the kinds with a flap that hold things like multitools or even the old cellphone pouches to somebody's belt, in some of those the belt loop is big enough (or it opens with some kind of fastener) that you can slide it around the belt buckle arm, in orizontal, or tie to it with a few loops of string, in vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T13:41:32.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:41:32.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29600" CreationDate="2016-05-13T03:16:16.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its bedding compound, there are many kinds on the market and which kind works best depends from the kind of hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are strong adhesives, consider them pretty much permanent, will work well on things that are put in place once and rarely or never removed, 3M 5200 is a polyurethane adhesive of this kind. Many hate it but it has its uses. It cures hard, tire rubber like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some others will adhere and seal any space between the hardware and the structure its attached to but the adhesion is not strong, these are designed so that the hardware can be removed for maintenance or repairs while still performing all the duties of a bedding compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common one is Dolfinite, which is a class of its own, old tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polysulfide bedding compounds are often used but they attack some plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just some, there are many others, the brands are many too, everyone seems to have their own line that goes from adhesives to sealants and everything in between. (And of course there are the homemade formulas)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To re-fit you could even check out butyl tape (not the plain hardware store stuff as its quality is not the best), it needs to squeeze out when you fix the hardware, this stays pliable forever, it will seal even if there's some movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15096" LastEditorUserId="15096" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T02:20:04.910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T02:20:04.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29601" CreationDate="2016-05-13T04:23:21.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liter Class is a Reference from the FIM and AMA Superbike Series&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term liter class was popularized in 1976 with the inception of the AMA Superbike Championship.  The class has a 1000cc displacement limit and the term 'liter class' as slang for the 1000cc Superbike championship was born.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, the class was reduced in displacement for safety reasons and was later changed back to four cylinder 1000cc displacement engines in 2005 along with the FIM Supberbike Championship during the same era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term 'liter class' has stuck in motorcycling and has become synonymous with inline four cylinder 1000cc motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does a liter class engine mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's etymological roots begin in motorcycling in reference to 1000cc displacement four cylinder motorcycle engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=liter%20class&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T04:23:21.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T04:26:28.170" Score="6" ViewCount="4462" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very, very new to this community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to customize my old bike with a self start along with user authentication via Bluetooth using a smart phone.  I can make the electronics part (Means Software and small work on hardware) only. I have no idea where to place the device on the motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions to help me solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17308" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T04:47:42.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T18:53:41.910" Title="How do I make a self start bike using a Hero Honda CD 100?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|electronics|custom|hero-honda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29634" CreationDate="2016-05-13T04:39:42.717" Score="4" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been asked to find parts for a Farmall H Tractor carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the searches I try identify the Make and Model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the engine is an IH C152. I can see that the same carb is used on an H, HV &amp;amp; W4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did Farmall make their own? or are they OEM Holley/Zenith etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't inspect it myself but have been told the main jet has been damaged and repaired in the past. Im trying to find out what it is do i can make enquiries about parts before i get there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T06:44:47.817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T06:44:47.817" Title="What make and model carburetor does a Farmall H tractor have?" Tags="|carburetor|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T04:45:40.257" Score="7" ViewCount="13221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spare six-point 3/4&quot; flank drive socket I'd like to keep in the trunk with a breaker bar. (From recent experience, the little collapsing wrench that comes with the seventh-gen Chevy Malibu doesn't provide enough torque to loosen the lug nuts, when changing a flat tire. It's possible they were over-tightened.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lug nuts are presumably 19 millimetre. Is this an acceptable idea, or is there a real chance I'll be abusing the lug nuts by using a socket 0.26 % (a quarter of one percent) too big?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15074" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T04:21:34.387" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T04:21:34.387" Title="Is it acceptable to use a 3/4 inch socket to loosen what are presumably 19mm lug nuts?" Tags="|tools|malibu|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:08:48.167" Score="3" ViewCount="2048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just driving my car in a parking lot.  After driving for about 15-20 minutes my gas pedal stops working! This has happened once before, I wasn't &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; surprised. I waited for about 3 minutes and started it up again. The pedal worked for about 10 seconds. Then it died again. Luckily I was able to get into a spot, and I walked to the mall. An hour later, it started fine and I drove it home. Last time this happened, I waited 10 minutes and started it, and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Power steering and power brakes stopped working at the same time as the pedal did. Also, the idling speed of the engine still worked and I could slowly inch into a safe spot. Very strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that is possible related: if I idle too long, the engine will die. The lights will stay on of course, but the engine just... turns off. If you try to start it, it doesn't start - instead it makes that noise right before the engine starts (sorry, I don't know the term! You know, that healthy &quot;che-che-che-che&quot; right before the &quot;vroooom&quot;? It doesn't sound like a dead battery, just a constant checheche). After trying to start it for like 5 minutes, sometimes it starts... but every time I've managed this (twice) the gas pedal phenomenon occurs merely minutes later. If I wait 10-20 minutes, it'll always start up, and I'll be fine! Sometimes the car isn't in idle when this happens, but after leaving my car idling for like 10 minutes as a test, it does, so I know idling can cause it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Summary:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Car&lt;/strong&gt;: 90 Celica&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recently replaced parts:&lt;/strong&gt; fuel pump, distributor, ignition, regulator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stuff that seems to cause it:&lt;/strong&gt; Longer drives (30 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stuff that happens:&lt;/strong&gt; No gas pedal, no power breaks and steering, and won't start for a while after stopping car. Engine still runs and goes that default idling speed thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other problems:&lt;/strong&gt; When idling a long time, engine can die, which makes this problem likely to occur if I can get engine to start after 5 minutes. Wait 15-20 and it'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The car hasn't started around 4 times in the past week or so, (and worked after 10-20 minutes) and the gas has died while driving twice, as well as the engine dying while idle once in a test I did at home.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17310" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T05:37:05.487" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T05:37:05.487" Title="Gas Pedal, Power breaks/Steering stops working... for a while?" Tags="|toyota|starting|stall|celica|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29620" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:27:50.537" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being as it's only 0.05mm larger in diameter, you shouldn't have a problem unless you're using that socket on a rattle-gun every day. If it's a 6-point socket, the wear on the nut should be minimal (12-point sockets have more of a chance at 'rounding' the nut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, however, you should go down to the shop and spend two dollars on the correct sized socket. Yours will still get you out of a pinch if needs be however, and using it once or twice shouldn't be too bad for the nut depending on how tight it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T06:27:50.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3553" CreationDate="2016-05-13T06:39:08.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a Valley brand 2&quot; receiver onto my 1997 escort. I had to buy longer bolts and will need a wiring harness. Used the two factory bolt holes, one on each side. And had to drill 1 additional hole on each side. But basically a direct fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17313" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T07:12:47.250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T07:12:47.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T09:10:54.580" Score="5" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to update my ECU mapping on my motorcycle to the latest one supplied by the manufacturer, but I'd also like to see what changed before doing so. I downloaded what was on the bike ECU and also got the latest release from the TuneECU website. I opened both with TuneECU individually and also in compare mode, but I can't see any difference, yet they have different versions in the meta-information and different file sizes. I'm not experienced with the TuneECU software, so it's also possible I'm using it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The F1 Table in both of them looks like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwtcY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwtcY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please explain how to read a map and which of the tables are used when? And is there any difference between the two maps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On board - map version 20630&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Latest - map version 20654&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Triumph Tiger 800, standard exhaust, no ABS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tuneecu.com/Tune_List.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Latest Triumph Maps.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also put both the maps I'm trying to compare in Dropbox:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/r0pmhwz4c0a6vhe/Tiger-OnBoard-Map-20630Map.hex?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/r0pmhwz4c0a6vhe/Tiger-OnBoard-Map-20630Map.hex?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/yg9yr6pyiz9p7ja/20654Map.hex?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/yg9yr6pyiz9p7ja/20654Map.hex?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T00:47:51.960" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T20:36:38.637" Title="How do you compare two ECU maps" Tags="|motorcycle|electronic-control-module|triumph|tiger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29604" CreationDate="2016-05-13T12:14:52.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could attach a visor panel on your sun shade and place the life hammer there. Something like this MOLLE-compatible visor could work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8H3Kl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8H3Kl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;molle visor panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MOLLE attachments give you plenty of versatility, and its size allows you to attach more than just the hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T12:14:52.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29611" CreationDate="2016-05-13T12:47:36.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd want to store pads and rotors packed up and in a dry place. Moreover you'd want to avoid stacking heavy stuff on rotors. In general I would keep them flat. This is to avoid warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when mounted pads and rotors are exposed to atmospheric agents, cold, extremely hot temperatures when braking, salt, grit, rust, etc. It is therefore safe to assume that they are built to resist and shouldn't be faded (pun intended) by being stored away for a couple of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T12:47:36.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29630" CreationDate="2016-05-13T13:41:55.137" Score="3" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: 2004 Mini Cooper (1598cc Petrol, 3-door hatchback) (United Kingdom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knowledge-level: Low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: My oil level is below 'minimum'. I suspect a leak and have booked it into the mechanics next week - the leak is not the concern of this question. In the meantime I need to top the oil up. The previous owner (I've had the car for 4 months) had been using PART-SYNTHETIC 10W/40 (I know this because they gave me their spare oil when I bought the car). My research today has found that the correct oil for the car is FULLY-SYNTHETIC 5W/30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Should I stick with the 'wrong' oil and top up with part-synthetic 10W/40, or should I add the correct oil (thus mixing two different oils)? Note that it is below minimum so it needs to be topped up with a decent amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit: my question is slightly different to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/2891/is-it-ok-to-mix-oil-of-different-viscosity-in-a-wankel-engine&quot;&gt;is-it-ok-to-mix-oil-of-different-viscosity-in-a-wankel-engine&lt;/a&gt; as I'm also asking about mixing partly-synthetic with fully-synthetic, not just different weights)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17318" LastEditorUserId="17318" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T17:50:10.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T17:50:10.003" Title="Oil low - incorrect oil already in. Stick with the wrong type or add correct type?" Tags="|oil|lubrication|mini-cooper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-05-14T19:57:07.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29755" CreationDate="2016-05-13T14:25:46.130" Score="5" ViewCount="4978" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front door electrical connector on the Astra Mk5 H,  is a rectangular multiplug. Is there a special technique for pulling it off. Are there clips which must be released first? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I haven't uploaded a picture as I'd like a reply from someone who has experience of this connector, rather than people just guessing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit... picture added. I figured it out, though guesses are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLHAa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLHAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Astra H Door Multiplug&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13223" LastEditorUserId="13223" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T09:03:00.830" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T00:34:07.370" Title="Vauxhall/Opel Astra H How to remove front door electrical connector" Tags="|electrical|vauxhall|opel|astra|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29643" CreationDate="2016-05-13T15:16:27.237" Score="5" ViewCount="5290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MV Agusta Brutale 675 with a GPR Carbonox slip on installed. The air filter is stock and no work has been done on the ECU. My problem is: at this state it's running rich as one can smell un burnt gasoline in the exhasut fumes. It's also got poor mileage as well. I'm thinking about installing an aftermarket air filter i.e DNA, BMC, etc which would hopefully remedy this, however plan on doing so without installing an aftermarket feul controller (i.e Power Commander, Bazzazz). Will this fix my problem or worsen it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T20:56:21.063" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T09:13:11.967" Title="Bike currently running rich due to aftermarket exhaust, will adding an aftermarket air filter without any ecu work fix it" Tags="|motorcycle|electronic-control-module|air-filter|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29627" CreationDate="2016-05-13T16:45:02.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to run Synthetic Oil with crushed Dinosaurs, which is exactly what 'part-synthetic' oils are - but because the chemistry of the two oils you have is unknown, I wouldn't do it for too long (the TBN - Total Base Number - of the mixture may change in unexpected ways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By running the 'wrong' oil, you're better off than running it with no (or low) oil! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tldr; You're OK to add the gunk you have, and let the garage sort everything next week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T16:45:02.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:01:00.363" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Pontiac Montana SW. I assume the SW means short wheelbase. Is the wheelbase 112 or 120 inches in length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T20:00:51.400" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T20:00:51.400" Title="2001 pontiac montana sw- what is the wheelbase length?" Tags="|pontiac|montana|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29627" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:43:33.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than mixing I would purge the wrong oil out of the system and fill up with the correct oil. Since you say it's below minimum you won't be draining out too much of it. If your skill level doesn't make you feel confident with this operation then you could fill up with the oil you have at hand and try not abusing (or using) the car too much before your trip to the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T17:43:33.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29631" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:45:33.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheelbase is the distance from center of front wheel to center of rear wheel.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H3bu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H3bu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tape measure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T17:45:33.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29619" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:12:24.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They used different manufacturers and models of carburetors through the years, or it could have been replaced with a different kind. You are best to pull the carb and gently clean it to find mfg or model numbers stamped into the throttle base or on a tag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steinertractor.tv/Wrenching-with-Rachel/How-to-identify-your-carburetor/189272--3848536&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.steinertractor.tv/Wrenching-with-Rachel/How-to-identify-your-carburetor/189272--3848536&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:12:24.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29611" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:17:46.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see absolutely no shelf life issue here.  But with that said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a thought.  Storage costs money.  You need garage and shelves and boxes and marking of boxes and ladders to get to the boxes in the back, and remembering what you did buy (out of sight is out of mind.)  Place a dollar value on the storage and compare that to the potential cost savings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, what happens when that car get stolen or wrecked in an accident next month.  You are now the proud owner of brake parts you can't use.  Yes you could sell those on Craigslist or Ebay or wherever, but I'm guessing you will only be getting 50% of your original purchase price.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really believe the price of the parts will go up, then take your money and purchase some financial stock in automotive parts companies. &lt;a href=&quot;http://finance.yahoo.com/echarts?s=AZO+Interactive#%7B&amp;quot;range&amp;quot;:&amp;quot;5y&amp;quot;,&amp;quot;allowChartStacking&amp;quot;:true%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(My vote here.)&lt;/a&gt; Online trading is very cheap.  And if you really want to make that money move, I'd buy a call option spread. You can easily take $100 and move it to bigger numbers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cash is good.  Storage is a hassle.  There is risk to buying something with the intent of using it later (like the car is no longer there...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:17:46.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29631" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:45:03.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SWB wheelbase is 112&quot;, the LWB is 120&quot;. The total vehicle length for the SW is 187.3&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Montana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Montana&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:45:03.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29638" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:05:42.590" Score="11" ViewCount="13706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new (to me) car that it appears hasn't had a coolant fluid change ever, now with 120k miles. It is an 04 Corolla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on flushing the system with distilled water a few times. But it seems to me that if I add a 50/50 mix of fluid back after the last drain, all the water left in the heater core will dilute the 50/50 mixture even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So since they say about half the liquid remains in the heater core after a drain, that I should add undiluted pure antifreeze to the system. That way it will mix with roughly half the water in the engine with the pure coolant I put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound correct? Am I right to add 100% coolant to my system after a 3 or 4 flushes with distilled water? Which would leave me with about a 50/50 mix (after driving a while and everything mixes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17324" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T21:06:18.393" LastActivityDate="2021-12-12T06:06:53.443" Title="50/50 Coolant Dilution after distilled water flush?" Tags="|toyota|coolant|cooling-system|corolla|cooling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:08:43.617" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes what you presume is correct.  Depending on total volume of coolant (different for each vehicle) how much pure AF I put in, anywhere from 1/2 to 1 gallon, then top off with 50/50 mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is better to be over the 50% mix than under, you can go as high as 70%, so don't worry about putting a little too much pure AF after flushing the cooling system with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:08:43.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28094" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:12:05.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally manufacturers aren't going to waste money on unnecessary components.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got electrical components to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provide spark to the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an on/ off / kill switch to control engine on or off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power the fuel pump (on a modern fuel injected bike).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power to the engine control computer, and its sensors and subsequently the fuel injectors (on a modern fuel injected bike.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power headlamp for night time driving. (so you can see the road.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power tail lamp for night time illumination (legal requirement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power turn signals, front and rear (legal requirement for mfgr.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power rear brake lamp (legal requirement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power horn (legal requirement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power gauges as appropriate (speed? warning lights, odometer,etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power for the starter motor. (have you ever tried kick starting a big engine?  its hard work.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;power for license plate illumination (legal requirement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternator / regulator / battery (provide electricity and storage of same)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to the Walking Dead apocalypse, all you really need is the stuff that provides spark to the engine, and power for the fuel pump and the engine control computer.  You will need a kill switch, alternator, battery.&#xA;If you want to drive at night, add the headlamp. &#xA;Electric Starter is optional, but highly recommended.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could go old skool (bikes built before 2003 or so...) you could go carbureted bikes (in lieu of fuel injection) and kick start.  That would save on electrons.  If you did old skool daytime walking dead only, you just need ignition coil and spark wiring.. things that generate spark. Add a kill switch, alternator, small battery and that's minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a modern fuel injected bike that is safe and legal, then that is exactly what the manufacturer is currently providing (less an extra kill switch or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:12:05.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:23:32.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a coolant mixture tester to test the coolant to water ratio.  Any auto parts store should carry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjSL0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjSL0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prestone Antifreeze/coolant tester&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:23:32.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:35:49.327" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolant capacity of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=2004+TOYOTA+COROLLA+3&quot;&gt;2004 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L 4-cyl Engine Code [R] 1ZZ-FE is 6.9 quarts&lt;/a&gt;. To accurately ensure you have a 50/50 mix in your system after a flush (assuming you actually flush it until you have clear liquid draining out), is to add 1/2 of the coolant as straight coolant (not 50/50 mix), then fill the rest as distilled water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, let's say you need to fill/run/drain the vehicle 4 times to get to where the coolant is clean on the last go around. Yet, when you drain the cooling system, you only get 5.5 quarts out. That means you have 1.4 quarts of water left in the system. You'd then proceed to add 3.45 quarts (let's just call it 3.5 quarts to make it easy) into the radiator and then fill the rest with distilled water. At first you will be just a bit high on antifreeze, but a 50/50 mix is optimal for the system. Having just a touch more is not a bad thing. As you burp the system, it will get closer to a 50/50 mix overall because you'll be adding more water. When you've completely burped the system, then mix what antifreeze you have left with distilled water to make a 50/50 mix external of your system and fill the overflow reservoir. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have added everything back in and it is well mixed, you can utilize the hydrometer to ensure what you've done is correct, but I'll assure you, if you follow these simple steps, your system will be spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T19:54:33.597" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:54:33.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41307" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:04:31.433" Score="21" ViewCount="5815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go 4-Wheeling A LOT with groups in Arizona.  A slow speed rollover is a relatively frequent event. You just get a bit to much lean on the vehicle trying to navigate a difficult section of a trail and then the truck or jeep slowly rolls over onto its side or back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it happen dozens of times throughout my life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result I've witnessed all manner of thoughtful solutions to get the vehicle upright all way, to the other extreme of some of the most thoughtless acts to get things right. I think I've witnessed more damage in uprighting a vehicle than I have in actual rollovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like have a better methodology to get a vehicle back on its wheels that does the least amount of damage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can someone suggest a way to upright a vehicle back to four wheels that doesn't ruin the vehicle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are some good tools to have handy to do this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any advice on what NOT to do is also welcome.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T16:23:29.967" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T21:05:52.760" Title="How do I roll my 4x4 vehicle back onto its wheels?" Tags="|4wd|accident|recovery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29629" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:09:48.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If anything, your bike should be running lean&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put an aftermarket non-restrictive exhaust on your MV, that increases the flow of gasses which requires more fuel to compensate for the additional flow.  So, the idea that your bike is running rich doesn't really resonate.  It certainly can be and if it is it could be indicative of another issue within your fuel delivery system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Filter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A free flow air filter will give you a higher flow rate through your intake than an OEM filter typically.  This will add the ability for your engine to consume more gasses, in this case, air.  Which in theory would reduce richness, but wait....there's more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have an ECU, it monitors your intake and exhaust.  It should be providing the correct richness without a Power Commander.  Why would it be rich?  It shouldn't be rich.  It should be leaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have something else wrong with your system.  You should clean all your sensors.  MAF, oxygen....all of them.  Once they have been cleaned, go for a ride and get everything good and hot and then see if it still smells rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The K&amp;amp;N and Power Commander are great low cost HP upgrades but I believe you need to understand what is happening with your bike in it's current state, fix it, then add those pieces in.  Your bike should not be running rich or lean, it should have perfect AFR and there is a reason it doesn't.  You just need to find it.  Also, clean your plugs and check your wires and ensure you don't have a misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T09:13:11.967" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T09:13:11.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29642" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:40:29.873" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tool list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several large/long tow straps (30ft each or longer recommended)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tX5kL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tX5kL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portable electric winch and battery, in case your buddy is not there to use his winch mounted on the front bumper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7cTh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7cTh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some 4&quot;x4&quot; wood posts from the lumber store, different lengths up to 8 feet, they make good prying instruments, longer the better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large Come along or two if you dont have a portable electric winch&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0h4O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0h4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some 3/8 tow chains, use these to attach the portable winch or come along to a tree or other vehicle, can also be used where a strap might be cut if used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPZ4i.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPZ4i.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T20:40:29.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29642" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:57:03.827" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, anyone who is off-roading knows the inevitability of a roll over. It happens; you deal with it. If you have an expectation of never rolling over or never scratching the paint, then keep your vehicle &lt;em&gt;on-road&lt;/em&gt; with the rest of the highway queens. Once any trail damage occurs, you'll have dents. Rolling a vehicle over may just cause your rig to be totaled, depending on the speed at which you are going and other factors involved. What I'm trying to say is, if you roll over, you'll have damage, &lt;em&gt;there's no two ways about it&lt;/em&gt;. Righting your vehicle will cause more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a few tools you can use to upright your vehicle, which a lot of off-roaders use for just such occasions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FRIENDS&lt;/strong&gt; - Never go wheelin' alone. You can never replace having a second vehicle around to help you out. They can provide any amount of help which man power alone cannot, though manpower (womanpower is awesome as well) is a great thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WINCH&lt;/strong&gt; - While not always going to be able to help, it is a great stand by to help you &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; get rolled over in the first place. It might help you get up an otherwise impassable embankment, which may cause the rollover. Get the highest capacity winch you can afford. Get a kevlar rope to go onto it as they are much lighter than steel and just as strong if not stronger. Plus they are a lot easier to wind back onto the drum and they don't rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;JACK&lt;/strong&gt; - Something like the image below is what I'm talking about. The great things about these jacks is they can be used for &lt;em&gt;a lot more than&lt;/em&gt; just jacking up the vehicle. They can be arranged to allow the ends to be jacked together, making a makeshift come-a-long. They reconfigure several different ways, are compact for what they do, and can be stored on the outside of the vehicle to not interfere with valuable inside space. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSeYh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSeYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GLOVES&lt;/strong&gt; - Never leave home without them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHAINS&lt;/strong&gt; - I'm talking the link type chains which hooks on the end. Get one which is fairly long and has a loop hook on one end and a grab hook on the other. You'll never go wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TOW STRAPS&lt;/strong&gt; - Use these to loop around trees so you don't tear them up when you need to right your rig. You know the other uses, so get them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;COME-A-LONG&lt;/strong&gt; - Another way to winch, when you cannot use the winch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BLOCKS&lt;/strong&gt; - Used to change the direction of the winch cable. Gets you out of tight situations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is not all inclusive. Get what you need, but these are some essentials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as righting the rig itself ... &lt;em&gt;there is no way to tell you how to do this&lt;/em&gt;. Every situation is going to be different. You need to prepare mentally for the eventuality and don't freak out. In the event of a roll over, shut the vehicle off. In most cases if you are upside down, the engine oil will travel to the top of the engine. Your engine will soon be running dry. This can cause serious damage to it, so shutting it down is what you need to do, especially if you want to drive it out when you get it righted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll bars can help dramatically reduce the amount of damage which happens to the vehicle, as well as help keep you from being dead under a squashed cab. Also, brush guards which are higher than the hood along with roll bars can help protect the vehicle even more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of things you can do to help prevent rollovers. The best thing to do is know your vehicle's limits and your driving skills. Keep yourself out of situations where you know you are going to be in trouble and it will go a long way to keeping yourself upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T13:07:25.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T13:07:25.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29647" CreationDate="2016-05-13T21:50:54.463" Score="10" ViewCount="27957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 2LS Camaro and I am looking to change the rear differential fluid and need to jack up the rear end of my vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on videos and enthusiast forums, people achieve this by putting a block of wood between the jack stand and the car along the side of the vehicle. For example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdEFH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdEFH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the wood could shift or split with the jack stand digging into it. Is this considered safe, or is this an indication that your jack stands aren't where they should be (if you need a piece of wood to distribute the load)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6771" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T21:57:44.550" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T14:06:09.323" Title="Is it safe to place wood between a car and a jack stand?" Tags="|tools|safety|jack-stand|rear-end|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29646" CreationDate="2016-05-13T21:57:29.487" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a good recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood will compress a bit when you lower your car down onto it.  The jack stand will dig into the wood as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits related to this related to the vehicle slipping on the jack stands.  I've never had a piece of wood fail doing this, although soft white pine sometimes comes out looking pretty beat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it safe to place wood between a car and a jack stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YES, absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T22:03:56.473" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:03:56.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29646" CreationDate="2016-05-13T21:58:21.980" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is ABSOLUTELY safe. I do this all the time. Mind you I usually use a piece of 2x4, though. It spreads the load over more of the frame or body and keeps the jack stand from doing any damage. The jack stand &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; dig into the wood, which is much better than digging into your vehicle. The wood can crack. The wood can do a lot of things. But once the wood is settled, which is before you ever crawl under the car, it's good to go. If something should happen, it's before you ever get under the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I wanted to add a picture of just what I've done in the past. I will almost always use a piece of 2x4 between jackstand and the vehicle. Waste 2x4 is cheap ... getting dents in the bottom of cars is not so cheap. This is the bottom of my previous Camaro Z28. If I didn't trust it, it wouldn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/futv7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/futv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T00:42:32.553" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T00:42:32.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29580" CreationDate="2016-05-13T22:14:05.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the damage was intentional, I see pliers marks on the plastic, have seen this type of marking many times. They are the parallel lines in the image below, made by the plier jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if they had to do it or were taking a shortcut at your expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talk to the service manager about it, if they blow you off or don't get a satisfactory answer, move up the chain to the General Manager, then the Owner if needed, lastly contact GM corporate offices, yes Corporate does care what people think about their warranty service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5v3S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5v3S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:14:05.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29452" CreationDate="2016-05-13T23:37:19.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the other brands, but VAG cars have two different oil and filter intervals: &lt;strong&gt;15.000 km&lt;/strong&gt; (~ 10 k mi) and &lt;strong&gt;30.000 km&lt;/strong&gt; ( ~ 20 k mi, called &quot;&lt;strong&gt;LongLife&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; service).&#xA;Which interval is required for a (VAG) car depends on year, engine type and oil (a  LongLife compatible oil is required). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the &lt;strong&gt;timing belt&lt;/strong&gt; needs to be changed after 120.000 km (~ 80 k mi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T23:37:19.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29646" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:25:03.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a different approach to this.  As pictured, it's perfectly safe, and sometimes recommended to spread out the pressure to avoid damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've also seen a &lt;em&gt;pile&lt;/em&gt; of wood used to extend a jack's height...and then fall over.  Don't do that!  (The car in question landed on the freshly-unpadded jack with the oil pan...messy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10721" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T00:25:03.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:43:41.683" Score="6" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having trouble with my ac blowing hot air at low speeds, and found my fans on the front grille are blowing air outwards instead of into the engine compartment.  Im hoping its an easy fix, but any information on fixing this sort of issue would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17329" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T00:46:55.717" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T13:01:20.137" Title="2009 prius front grill fans blowing air out" Tags="|toyota|fan|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29662" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:06:42.140" Score="6" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;To test whether either or both O2 sensors are damaged, one hooks the (black, following Bosch's convention) wire on each sensor and tracks the signal against the ground using an oscilloscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is idling at 3000rpm, the upstream sensor will show a wave with an amplitude in the range between 0.2 V and 0.8 V, and a frequency between 1 Hz and 2 Hz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYMGnvtgi8w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;signal&lt;/a&gt; looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPD2j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPD2j.png&quot; alt=&quot;pre-cat signal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downstream sensor should have a much more constant signal. This stable signal indicates that the catalytic converter is doing its job and there is no fluctuation in the level of O2, or not as much, past the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can an engine revving at 3000 rpm produce a variation in O2 of frequency 1-2 Hz rather than 50 Hz? I'd have been surprised if the O2 variation was anywhere near 3000 Hz; there surely must be enough turbulence in the engine outflow for any variation to vanish, but I'm still surprised that there is a variation at this low frequency. What causes it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="5109" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T18:32:33.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:32:33.807" Title="Why does an engine revving at 3000 rpm produce O2 variations of 1-2 Hz?" Tags="|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29657" CreationDate="2016-05-14T04:07:04.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Vitz 2007 has some trouble with its engine wiring harness. Engine idles roughly and wire harness damaged in several places and I had to solder wires several times. I suspect the rough idling is also probably due to the problems in the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find an an aftermarket wiring harness but the best one I could find has its wires that are going to the fuse box cut. I found the fuse box and could buy the socket that connects to the fuse box too. Now I am going to solder the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are about 20 wires I have to solder. My question is, would it be appropriate to solder wires? Would it make the resistance of the wires different and cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T15:54:26.670" Title="Soldering wires in a wiring harness" Tags="|toyota|vitz|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T04:12:30.557" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Hundai Accent 2011 model with Automatic transmission,after traveling 10-20 kms when I change gear to neutral or park, the RPM rises to 3000 and doesn't come down. I took the car to the Hyundai service centre, they cleaned the carburetor with Delco spray and it was OK for few minutes, but after traveling 5 kms the RPM came back up to 3000 in neutral and park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please suggest  what could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17333" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T13:34:54.130" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T10:13:31.830" Title="RPM rising to 3000 in neutral and Parking gear this happen after travelling 10 to 20 kms" Tags="|hyundai|accent|fast-idle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29655" CreationDate="2016-05-14T05:39:50.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soldering wires in a particularly old harness will actually reduce resistance in that portion of the wire. It won't be noticeable except for allowing for greater signal/line integrity. I.e. In a wire with failing spots (where conductor has been damaged or has broken) or exposed conductors, rejoining via soldering will restore the reliability of that particular wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soldering broken wires, extending stretched wires to reduce stress, etc. are very common processes. When done correctly, you will not affect the performance of the conductor. What actually will affect your harness more is the age and growing parasitic resistance of the harness itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally however, best practice dictates that whenever replacing the harness, it's best to replace it connector to connector instead of splicing wherever possible. This is because for every solder joint, you theoretically introduce a possible failure point. Is that of major concern? Not particularly if you are skilled enough to produce good solder joints without cold jointing, insufficient wetting, and the numerous problems that can plague a solder joint. This will affect reliability, as well as introduce interesting anomalies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summation, provided you can terminate solder joints effectively, and protect them adequately (please don't use electrical tape to cover your solder joints - heatshrink is certainly a worthy investment for the longevity of your harness to prevent moisture and corrosion from penetrating the insulation) you should have absolutely no issues. Ideally you should just replace the harness from one major connector to another if possible, however in some cases this is not possible, and soldering wires is the only remaining option. This isn't to say soldering can't be as effective or durable, there are just many variables that can make it particularly difficult for novices or the inexperienced to maintain quality, repeatable, and effective solder joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T05:39:50.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29515" CreationDate="2016-05-14T09:42:40.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the suspension setup. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydropneumatic_suspension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hydropneumatic suspension&lt;/a&gt; (in implementations slightly different to Citroën's) has been used on various sports cars including the MG F and McLaren's current range including the P1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Citroën's original implementation was biased for comfort, at the expense of body control: after a bump, the system takes longer to settle than most cars. Citroëns also tended to roll quite a bit, although that didn't impair cornering as much as you'd expect.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Citroën later developed hydractive variants (with variable spring rates to improve body control) and ultimately the Activa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any time, Xantia Activa rolls at most half a degree. This make it not only spectacular to look at, but also improve cornering speed. French magazine L’Automobile tested a Xantia Activa on skidpad and measured an amazing 0.94 g lateral acceleration. This compares competitively with many supercars - NSX managed 0.93 g, Ferrari 512TR 0.92 g, Toyota Supra 0.95 g and Ferrari F40’s 1.01 g. This is even more impressive if you consider the Xantia wears just 205/55R15 tyres ! Most cars in its class manage around 0.8 g only ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T09:42:40.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T11:42:51.317" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Toyota Tazz and very occasionally the engine won't start. It'll turn over and sound like it's starting, but won't start. Then I'll try again and it will start fine. This has probably happened twice in the past 6 months. I always just took for granted that sometimes starting doesn't work and never really thought otherwise, but today it happened again and I realized that what I was taking as normal may be an actual problem. My car gets serviced regularly and doesn't have any other major issues. Apart from being 12 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it reasonable for a (old!) car to not start the first try on occasion and still be considered fine? Or is there something wrong with my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17335" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T12:57:00.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:53:18.300" Title="Very occasionally, my old car doesn't start. Is that normal?" Tags="|toyota|starting|tazz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T13:28:41.090" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Silverado 2500 with 150000 miles, about 5 miles after an oil change I noticed two hard shifts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I drove 1/2 mile, the trans slipped and is now disabled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had mechanic look at it and suggested it might be engine oil in the transmission. They suggested I drain the  transmission fluid  and change filter.  Less than 10 miles  since oil changed mechanics said that the oil looked brown not red, which is consistent with transmission fluid. They suggested it may be engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your opinion ?  Is there a recourse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17340" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T14:00:53.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:03:30.250" Title="Wrong oil in trans" Tags="|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29660" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:03:30.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brown fluid is common in higher mileage automatic transmissions, especially if they do not get regular fluid changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red ATF turns brown when it is worn out and the clutches in the transmission start slipping, creating friction and burning the fluid, turning it from red to brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is anyone's fault, its just time for a transmission rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:03:30.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29654" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:10:30.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upstream Variation (Hz) is also called O2 crosscounts, this normal fuel mixture control, the fuel computer changes mixture ever so slightly so it crosses the stoichiometric boundary (.45v), back and forth from lean to rich. The more crosscounts the better fuel control is and indication of a healthy O2 sensor, high crosscounts is also an indication the fuel computer is in closed loop mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/feature/o2-sensor-testing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More reading on this subject&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:10:30.630" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:20:30.837" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mode 06 (OBD), one gets a current value, max value and a min value for every MID, TID supported. If the current value is out of the max/min range, that MID, TID is considered a 'Fail'. But there may be a case where the current value is within max limits, but very close to it. Though a scan tool will identify it as a 'Pass' , but its almost about to fail.&#xA;Say, Cat monitor switch ratio (Bank1) has a max 48, min 0 and current 47. So it passes. But the catalyst is about to fail. What will be a range (call it 'Yellow Zone') where I can say that though the Cat monitor switch ratio test passes, yet it is about to fail? Is there any scan-tool which gives this yellow/warning zone signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:26:31.177" Title="Mode 06 approaching failure limit" Tags="|obd-ii|catalytic-converter|failure-modes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:23:13.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually just bit the bullet and let the dealership replace the SRS unit for several hundred dollars.  Light hasn't come back on since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:23:13.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1981" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:25:02.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up just using some thick solid wire.  Strung it through the holes in the floor, and through the holes in the mat and twisted it to make it secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:25:02.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29667" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:38:50.660" Score="6" ViewCount="5905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly wondering about different brands of refrigerants. In other words, mixing one brand of R134a with another brand, not mixing R12 and R134a (or anything like that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="11339" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T14:49:09.067" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:49:09.067" Title="Is it bad to mix different refrigerants?" Tags="|ac|r134a|r12|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29666" CreationDate="2016-05-14T14:57:29.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no difference between brands of R134A, unless there is some additive in it which will be stated on the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some include leak sealer, never use this, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://refrigeranthq.com/brand-important/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The only real difference is Price.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T15:17:57.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T15:17:57.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29670" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:30:49.340" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Accord with about 122k miles. I have always used conventional oil but recently I had the car to the dealer for a recall that involved replacing engine parts and oil change. However they used synthetic. Do I need to always use synthetic oil for all future changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:26:54.733" Title="Mixing Oil Types" Tags="|honda|accord|oil-change|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29655" CreationDate="2016-05-14T15:54:26.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A word of caution: soldering creates a stiff section in an otherwise flexible wire.  If the wire flexes, the soldered/un-soldered transition is a stress point, where the wire can break.  This is one reason that crimping is (usually) preferred (&lt;a href=&quot;http://customcable.ca/crimping-vs-soldering/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eg&lt;/a&gt;).  Which is not to say, never solder; just, think about the mechanical support/strain relief.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, clean off the flux; it's corrosive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10471" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T15:54:26.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:00:51.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can go back to regular oil next oil change. Its only bad to go back to non-synthetic if the car has been on a steady diet of Synthetic for a long time or is designed to use synthetic oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:00:51.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:26:54.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spec for a 2009 Honda Accord is plain old oil; no specific need for synthetic. As long as you get your oil changed regularly, it won't be breaking down to the point where the difference is measurable (except in your wallet). You won't have any problems switching between synthetic and non-synthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:26:54.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:28:41.733" Score="5" ViewCount="15959" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 Durango 2 wheel drive front tire is seized to the rotor, I tried the heating method and hitting but still seized, how can I get it off without damaging the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17342" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T17:43:10.277" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T21:11:16.313" Title="Wheel stuck to Rotor" Tags="|brakes|dodge|brake-rotor|durango|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29672" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:48:29.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I can suggest it to soak the rim with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quality Rust Penetrate&lt;/a&gt;, squirt it into the lug nut holes with the lug nuts removed, do this several times a day over a few days, rotate the wheel 180 degrees each time right before you soak it, let the penetrate do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it has soaked a couple of days, get someone with a big foot and large leg to kick the side of the tire near the edge to break it loose from the rotor. If there is a safe place to use a long pry bar on the wheel you can get some leverage that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a length of 2x6 lumber, rest it against the side of the tire near the outer edge and have someone swing a 15lb sledge hammer hitting the board hard. Use a long board (6ft or longer) so the one holding it is clear of the swinging hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:48:29.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29659" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:53:18.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say that the car is &lt;em&gt;fine&lt;/em&gt; but I wouldn't say that it has something &lt;em&gt;horribly wrong.&lt;/em&gt; It could be the signs of a part of the fuel system failing. This could be anything from the pump, filter, pressure relief valve, or injectors. Maybe check your owner's manual to see when they recommend you swapping any of these parts out. If you are past due on any of those parts I would include that in your next service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17343" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:53:18.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29672" CreationDate="2016-05-14T18:44:33.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to take care of this which I've found is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack up and secure the vehicle (or wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take all lug nuts off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit on your butt in front of the offending wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With your feet, pound alternately from one side to the other until the wheel comes loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a process, which can take some time. I've found this works the fastest in getting a wheel free. You can also use a heavy hammer, ensuring you are only hitting rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:44:33.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29681" CreationDate="2016-05-14T19:12:05.643" Score="5" ViewCount="7501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Saab 9-3 (98-02 version) as a learning project. I have no experience maintaining cars. While entirely rebuilding the front suspension, I forgot to fit the circlip on the outside of one wheel bearing. I pressed in the wheel hub, and the whole strut is now complete, on the car, with bolts and hub screw hand tight for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled around, and apparently this is a common newbie mistake. Everyone seems to recommend putting the circlip even if it means replacing the bearing, but nobody seems to have any reason for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saab's workshop manual usually has some technical overview of their cars' systems, but the front wheel hub is an exception. I can only see the bearing referenced as &quot;angular contact ball bearing&quot; in the Saab parts catalog. Still, the inner races seem pressed between the axle's outer joint and the hub once the nut is tightened, and I expect the bearing to not be able to slide away once that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it imperative for my security to to get a bearing with &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; circlips in there? If my mistake just shortens the lifespan of the bearing, I'm tempted to let it live however long it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17345" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T21:40:47.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T04:41:09.087" Title="Forgot outer retaining circlip on front wheel bearing, what do I do?" Tags="|saab|wheel-bearing|9-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29672" CreationDate="2016-05-14T21:11:16.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my method of last resort when lube, heat, brute force failed. Loosen all the lug nuts 2-3 turns, alternate between forward and reverse while accelerating 2 or 3 feet in each direction. Hit the brakes hard between each direction change. Have an observer watch for the wheel to move. Jack up the vehicle remove the lug nuts and try the methods that didn't work the first time. For safety sake I leave one lug nut on but very loose. That way the wheel can't fly off and roll down the driveway, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T21:11:16.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29677" CreationDate="2016-05-14T21:48:09.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Moab stated, if it wasn't needed, it wouldn't be there. In most cases, the clip is there to maintain bearing position. Without it, the bearing walks and it drastically shortens the life of not only the bearing, but anything which the bearing comes into contact, mainly the CV joint. When the bearing walks, this puts pressure the CVJ every time you turn a corner. I'm sure there are other parts which will be affected as well, but needless to say, you really need to put the clip in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my father always told me, if you are going to do something, never do it half a$$ed. Take care of business and do it right. As you stated, this is a learning experience ... chalk this up to your education and get it done right. Pull it apart and put the clip in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T21:48:09.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2016-05-15T01:26:31.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;None that I can think of off hand. I know for sure my Verus doesn't or any Snap-On scanner for that matter. Toyota Tech Stream doesn't offer this. GM Tech2 doesn't, and I'm pretty sure the Ford IDS doesn't either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mode 6 decoding is spotty at best even in the professional world, and requires a list of TIDs to even decode what test is what most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:26:31.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29707" CreationDate="2016-05-15T03:12:10.490" Score="11" ViewCount="19257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2006-mazda-6-luxury-sports-manual/SPOT-ITM-249820&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006 Mazda 6 Luxury Sport&lt;/a&gt; in Australia, and the front headlights have 4 lights on them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7bhK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7bhK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front headlight, all lights off&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a fog light, which is not featured in this photo (but will be visible in later photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot work out what one of the lights does (second from the left). The following 4 photos show the car with various lights on, explained below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBYdU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBYdU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front headlights, lights on&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parking lights on: you can kinda see the small light on the big globe on, as well as the fog light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headlights on: you can see all of the above lights on, plus the full headlight on the right-hand side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High beams: you can see all of the above, plus the large globe on (well, admittedly you can't really see the small light on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High beams + indicator: you can see all of the above, plus the indicator on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In none of the above can you see the second light from the left on. It is also possible to turn the fog light off (it's worth noting that in the picture shown, I have the fog light on, but that can be switched off which results in the light being off, as shown):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CcjMV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CcjMV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fog light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mazda.ca/globalassets/en/pdf/manuals/mazda6/2006mazda6_ownersmanual_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Owners manual&lt;/a&gt; (pdf link) section 8-43, there is no light shed on the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4eGq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E4eGq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Owners manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the light, second from the left, for? I have tried Googling results, but all I can find is about purchasing after-market headlights for the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to determine if there is even a light there, but I'm not that mechanically skilled. To the best of my knowledge, the luxury sport model is the top-model Mazda6 (although arguably the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/2006-mazda-6-mps-manual-4wd/SPOT-ITM-249816&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MPS&lt;/a&gt; is) so should contain all the bells and whistles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17351" LastEditorUserId="17351" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T11:25:21.157" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T14:49:16.813" Title="What is this extra light on my headlights?" Tags="|electrical|mazda|headlight|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T09:25:10.587" Score="6" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2005 Honda CBF 600S, rode it for about a week, and then asked my mechanic to check if everything is OK, and to replace the clutch cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic also replaced all the fluids, including oil. I took the motorcycle back to my garage, and on the next morning, I started the bike on neutral, gave it some time (a minute or two) to warm up, pulled the clutch lever, shifted into first gear -- and the engine stopped. I then started the engine again, and this time there was no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation occurred again and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, EVERY MORNING, after the warm up I turn the engine off, shift into first, give the bike a wobble while pulling the clutch, and after the clutch plates disengage, I start the engine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked my mechanic what might be the cause, but his only idea was that the previous owner might have used some gasoline additives, which are known to interfere with the oil's quality. But that doesn't make sense, the bike had no such problems prior to my visit to the mechanic's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that my mechanic might have replaced the oil with a lower-viscosity one, but both SAE 10W-40 and SAE 10W-30 are fine for Honda CBF 600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What might be the cause? I should add that, other than the problems in the morning, the clutch works fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my wobbling the bike in first gear somehow foolish? I've heard that the cam chain tensioner may become mis-adjusted if the bike is pulled backwards while in gear, but I couldn't confirm that using google.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T10:06:56.393" Title="2005 Honda CBF 600 -- clutch plates get stuck overnight" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|clutch|oil-change|clutch-plate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29901" CreationDate="2016-05-15T10:42:29.137" Score="2" ViewCount="15493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I changed air filters in my car (Nissan supper saloon N16 - model year 2000). After installation the check engine light came on when I started the engine and the engine seemed to be running with less power. Then I thought it could be a problem with new air filter so I replaced it with old one. I started and stopped engine few times and check engine lights went off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After check engine light went off I drove few miles with less power and it recovered as I drove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today morning lights came back on.  The engine seems to be producing less power.&#xA;I suspected that oil or something from the new filter might stick on the MAF Sensor rods. I cleaned it too by blowing air but I am still having the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have not checked for OBD readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything to do with MAF sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When I open the fuel tank lid it depressurized giving a vacuum sound? Does this indicate some EVAP system error? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have an OBD reader and have to travel long distances to reach a automotive shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can try at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Error code (update)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;i got code &lt;em&gt;p0100&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;so i replaced the MAF sensor but still check engine lights are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="17352" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T16:47:51.943" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T22:10:39.233" Title="Check engine lights came up after Air filter change?" Tags="|engine|nissan|o2-sensor|misfire|maf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T12:16:19.893" Score="5" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda Ridgeline was recalled for airbags.  It has been sitting on a lot in oh-so-hot South Carolina now for a month.  They say it could be August till I get my truck back. (shortage of parts)  Now - after a month of sitting on black-top at 80+ degree what could go wrong and what if it is till August?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know in the past if it is a month or more without rain in the hot summer my wiper blades dry-rot from non-use/water so you see my concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to everyone in advance!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17354" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T17:52:57.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:34:26.117" Title="Honda truck waiting recall parts/sitting @ dealer lot....good or bad?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|ridgeline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29691" CreationDate="2016-05-15T15:56:48.563" Score="4" ViewCount="3900" Body="&lt;p&gt;More and more trucks in the UK seem to have these yellow triangles on the wheel nuts. Usually in pairs pointing at each other, but I have seen one truck that had them all facing the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:54:30.307" Title="What are the yellow triangles on truck wheels for?" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29690" CreationDate="2016-05-15T16:32:48.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXDhC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXDhC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IagfG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IagfG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about these, they are there to indicate the torque or the bolt has not loosened any. They are just an easy visual sign the lugs have not loosened any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the way down on this page which &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.truck-drivers-money-saving-tips.com/lug-nut-torque.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reviews lug nut torque indicators&lt;/a&gt;, it says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To assist with making sure that there are no loose lug nuts on a truck which can give rise to &quot;wheel separation accidents,&quot; there is an invention that we call &quot;lug nut torque indicators&quot; that we have seen installed (mostly on the steer tires) of some trucks. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheel-check.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheel-Check.com&lt;/a&gt; website refers to these as &quot;loose wheel nut indicators.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just so you know, they are becoming prevalent here in the US as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: For better understanding, these are put on &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the lugs are torqued, in a recognizable pattern. If a lug should turn (and thus have lost torque), it would immediately be visually recognizable as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T19:54:30.307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:54:30.307" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29689" CreationDate="2016-05-15T16:47:22.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can go wrong, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your battery will go dead, then you will need a new one, full discharge of the battery for any length of time ruins a lead acid battery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possible vandalism or theft of the vehicle (yes cars get stolen off of dealership lots all the time)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Severe weather damage, tornado, hail, flood, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No good reason to store it at the dealership for that long, take it home until they have the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T16:47:22.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T17:32:22.177" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I unpacked my mower after moving across the country and noticed an issue when trying to run it.  It seems to run ok but idles with a wavering sound and eventually shuts down, I then need to give it some time before I can start it again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/JfqRL3jn5sTmzVw16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video of the the issue.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4532" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T19:06:06.427" Title="Wavering sound on mower" Tags="|husqvarna|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29686" CreationDate="2016-05-15T17:58:19.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the whooshing sound when you remove the gas cap. This could be a defective gas cap check valve. The check valve performs 2 functions. When the fuel pump takes fuel from the tank the fuel volume decreases creating a partial vacuum inside the tank causing the fuel pump to work harder. The check valve injects  outside air in to equalize the pressure in the tank while the fuel pump is is in operation. When the fuel pump stops the check valve closes. A normally conditions a functioning fuel cap shouldn't make any noise at all , the exception being on very hot days -fuel vapor escaping. &#xA;Change the gas cap with an OEM one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T17:58:19.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29693" CreationDate="2016-05-15T18:01:57.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the carburetor and disassemble carefully, clean it and the main and idle jet passages with carb cleaner in a spray can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely bowl sediment go knocked loose in the move and is now partially clogging the idle jet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think is  happening, the engine tries to idle on the idle jet but it is not getting enough fuel to maintain the idle, when the rpm drops too low the rpm governor opens the throttle a bit, then rpm rises and the governor backs off to let it idle again, then the cycle continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T19:06:06.427" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T19:06:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7564" CreationDate="2016-05-15T18:15:42.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not have to remove the battery you may remove the driver side wheel well housing and access it from there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17356" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T18:15:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T18:44:28.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to fix some small scratches on my car can you give me some guidance on how I should proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear bumper&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GO3fR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GO3fR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear bumper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Door handle&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFeEz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFeEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front bumper. Here the plastic has a deep scratch also.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kulHz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kulHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frontal bumper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11353" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T21:07:20.193" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T23:14:32.523" Title="What's the best body filler to paint a car" Tags="|honda|paint|body|paint-scratches|body-filler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29693" CreationDate="2016-05-15T19:10:58.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't disagree with @Moab. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add, that sure sounds like a positive feedback on the air vane that controls the idle speed.  The air vane is driven by the flywheel vanes.  If the vane gets bent, or a spring gets disconnected, the whole thing goes in this fast slow oscillating control loop.  If you remove the cover you should be able to see the control vane.  Look for a spring attached to that large metal plate that is only connected at one end (etc...)  Basically the throttle plate at the carburetor is opening and closing way too fast on its own, without control from the operator speed cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while you are cleaning up the carburetor (per the excellent Moab answer) do check the inlet screen at the bottom of the fuel pick up.  You should easily be able to blow air thru the pickup tube. I've seen those screens getting clogged easily... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:10:58.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29689" CreationDate="2016-05-15T19:34:26.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah.  Gotta be way careful with Air Conditioning (A/C) system as well. If the car is facing a particular direction when parked, the sunlight can heat up the Air Conditioning condenser in front of the radiator.  Hot in the day, cool at night. With this hot / cold cycle the refrigerant slowly migrates around the system.  Unfortunately, your automotive air conditioner requires oil be cycled throughout the system to provide lubrication for the A/C compressor. If this goes on for a long time, all the oil in the system migrates to a single place, and the compressor will be absolutely dry of oil.  If somebody starts up the air conditioning at high engine rpm, wham.  Good-bye A/C. Have a nice day.   I know Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM) have seen this problem in the past for cars parked for an extended period of time (generally around 60 days or more.)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't really know the best fix.. I'd request the dealer to start the car up once a week and run the A/C at vehicle idle speed for a few minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ask the dealer for a copy of their written procedure for storage of a customer's vehicle on the premises for a period of more than two weeks.  I'd be willing to bet a steak dinner they have a written procedure. The dealer may not have one, but Honda OEM certainly should.  If the dealer says they don't have a procedure, immediately ask for the name and telephone number of the regional Honda service rep who monitors that dealership.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And hey, for my steak, is Outback Steakhouse okay with you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:34:26.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29686" CreationDate="2016-05-15T19:49:42.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Milan, I recommend that you purchase a paper Chilton's or Haynes repair manual for your car.  They cost around $30 at your local autoparts store.  Many manufacturers have provided a 'secret' code that you can use to turn your check engine light into a blinking code reader. The instructions for that tend to be written in the repair manual (not all manufacturers do that but many do... for some you may need a light bulb tester or a multimeter.)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that in many locations, your local autoparts store will read the codes for you for free.  (Oops. not offered in California, not sure why...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for @resident_heretic and the vacuum sound, er.. yeah, kinda, sorta. But not really.  Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28954/what-is-the-activated-carbon-cannister/28956#28956&quot;&gt;my complete answer&lt;/a&gt; from another posting...  Its a lengthy answer.  And no matter how hot the days, nobody wants fuel vapor escaping.. that's a major no-no for an automotive manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2002-2006-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/263453-how-check-codes-without-code-reader-clear-them.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;secret code to read the engine computer for a Nissan Maxima&lt;/a&gt; (not sure if that's the same for you, but you get the idea...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T19:49:42.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29685" CreationDate="2016-05-15T19:59:54.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the kickstand safety switch has gone astray.  Almost like the switch gets stuck and the bike thinks the kickstand is still down when its not.  After 'wobbling' the bike, the switch gets unstuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T21:38:30.177" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T21:38:30.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:10:22.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Genuine Buddy yesterday on craigslist rode it home and of course it won't start this morning.  The battery works(the turning signals and hazard lights work), and the gas tank is full.  It barely wants to begin to turn over, sometimes, but mostly makes a clicking noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I tried using the kickstarter to no avail as well &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the problem might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be truly helpful.one thing to note i tried using the kick starter to no avail as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17360" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T00:09:13.157" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T00:09:13.157" Title="2008 Genuine Buddy 125cc - Starting Problem" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29703" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:25:50.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A battery can run lights but not have enough energy to run a starter, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery connections, be sure they are clean and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check water levels in the battery, fill if needed, then put a 1amp charger on it for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get it running again check the voltage at the battery while running with a DC voltmeter, it should be 13.5 volts or more at high idle, if not the charging system may not be working,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those small batteries do not last long if not properly maintained (which most people do not), it may need a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T20:25:50.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29703" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:54:39.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes three things to make an engine go.  Spark, fuel and air.  So perhaps something controlling each of those three things isn't working well.  No way to guess here. Just start checking each of those.  If you are mechanically inclined, I'd start the search by troubleshooting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernbuddy.com/pdf/buddy125_service_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;with the service manual.&lt;/a&gt; Page 13 of that manual is a very detail troubleshooting chart showing 27 repairs tied to  &quot;hard starting or can't start&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print out that page on paper, take your time and go through each of the root causes.  This is a great way to discover how things work, and the pride in fixing it yourself (Many of us have done this very thing... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your vehicle fuel injected or does it have a carburetor?  I see from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernbuddy.com/pdf/buddy_50_125_150_170-owners-2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the owner's manual for your scooter&lt;/a&gt; that both options have been produced.  Look at page 15 of that manual.  Is the Engine Management System (EMS) lamp present on your speedometer / cluster area?  If so, you've got a fuel injected model. If not, then you have a carburetor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that light on?  If so, is it possible for you to get your hands on a code reader?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On other resource you might consider for this issue is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernbuddy.com/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.modernbuddy.com/forum/&lt;/a&gt;   It's very possible the folks there may know quite a bit about your vehicle.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it, stay safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T21:02:52.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T21:02:52.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29686" CreationDate="2016-05-15T21:33:30.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bq3Zs.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bq3Zs.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is gas cap check valve. I tried to edit my post but It would let me. So here is a follow up for clarification. The check valve in the gas cap helps to regulate the pressure in the EVAP system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T21:33:30.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29683" CreationDate="2016-05-16T01:28:10.013" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?22197-The-Official-6Crew-HID-Information-Thread-ALL-YOU-NEED-TO-KNOW&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; that extra space is for the integrated fog light, which is probably where the fog light would be if you didn't have the separate fog light.&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNODX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNODX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T22:49:00.433" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:49:00.433" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T03:57:38.350" Score="5" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took possession of a 2004 Volvo S60. I knew it had a welded engine mount, but that it was in otherwise good working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been the case until a couple of weeks ago when I noticed a ?whine? only when turning left around ~45degree+ corners, and only at more than ~10mph. Further, if I try and turn particularly fast, I feel the wheel provide &quot;kick back&quot; (basically an ease up of resistance, then a strongish pulling feeling, then back to normal). The thing is this whine doesn't go away once I have straightened out (seems to continue for upwards of many minutes more), and seems to be variable tone from that point it starts, based on engine speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked things that my slightly mechanical mind thought might be a cause (Power steering fluid, obvious signs of wear/damage to the tire &quot;linkages&quot; (in the wheel well)) all without a clue of what is going on. I mentioned the engine mount because it seem conceivable to me that this is related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what system needs attention, and in what way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T15:08:25.500" Title="Noises &amp; &quot;Feedback&quot; while cornering" Tags="|noise|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29712" CreationDate="2016-05-16T08:21:10.310" Score="8" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to prevent my air conditioner from smelling moldy as the temperatures begin to rise?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every year someone I know or myself begins to get an odor from their air conditioner that's musty or moldy when the weather begins to get warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried preventive measures to ensure this does not occur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked through the questions on this site and cannot find a duplicate.  I can only find questions related to how to respond once you have the odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can someone share some ideas regarding this potential problem?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are there any methods I can employ that are effective at preventing this from occurring this year?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T07:58:38.200" Title="What can I do to prevent my air conditioner from smelling moldy as the temperatures begin to rise?" Tags="|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T09:13:19.917" Score="23" ViewCount="11176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now this has started to &quot;interfere with concentration&quot;. It is happening when i am getting out and trying to close the door. I feel a static shock as i touch the metal part of the door as my foot touches the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I faced it in my last car as well, in that car the seat covers were of velvet cloth. But in this one they are plain (don't know the exact material). Do others face it as well and how do you avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it has any relation to weather, I think it happens in cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T14:00:48.373" Title="Static electric shock as I leave the car" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-05-16T09:59:06.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to prevent the buildup of mildew in the system during the colder months, as that's what causes the smell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I've heard is to make sure you run the A/C regularly (at least once every couple of weeks) during the cooler period, so that any spores get blown out of the ducts before they get a chance to settle and grow - a useful side effect is that this also keeps the seals lubricated and so increases their lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://honestjohn.co.uk/faq/air-conditioning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://honestjohn.co.uk/faq/air-conditioning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T07:58:38.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T07:58:38.200" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T10:07:53.547" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the others face it as well. It depends on the pants and shoes you wear, as well as the material of your seats - static charge builds up between the different fabrics when you stand up because of the &lt;strong&gt;triboelectric effect&lt;/strong&gt;. When you first touch a large metal body (such as the car frame), it immediately discharges, giving you the unpleasant sensation. Weather conditions matter as well, this phenomenon is more common in dry air conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick you can try is to get out of the car &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; touching the metal frame of the car. This guarantees the charge will pass to the car before building up. This trick works in other situations when you get shocked by static as well: touching a metal table leg while standing up off a chair will prevent static discharge at home or office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="17381" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T22:23:03.773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:23:03.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T10:08:47.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced it as well, in some vehicles more than others. Typically, the days I get hit with it the most is, as you stated, on cold days. I don't think it's necessarily the cold day which does it, but rather the amount of humidity which is in the air. When the air is dry it tends to allow more static electricity buildup. The humidity is usually lower on colder days due to the fact there isn't as much evaporation going on around you to create the humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/Why-does-static-electricity-occur-more-in-dry-than-humid-weather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this web page&lt;/a&gt;, they talk about this effect a little bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These static charges build up normally by rubbing 2 materials together (an effect known as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triboelectric_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triboelectric effect&lt;/a&gt; due to the friction of rubbing), for example while walking on carpet while wearing shoes (rubber soles vs carpet material). When the charge builds to a high enough level and you touch an electrically conductive part like a metal door handle, the static charge is suddenly released all at once and you notice the effect. At low enough levels, you do not actually perceive it even though it actually occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When it's humid, it's much easier (as you correctly mentioned) for the static charges that is being generated to dissipate before you touch a door handle. They dissipate away to the environment via the surrounding air &amp;amp; also back to the 'damp due to humidity' carpet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So when it's humid, less static charges build up to a level required to zap you and when it's dry you get zapped more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T10:08:47.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T12:34:09.423" Score="2" ViewCount="4881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corsa, it's very slow and sluggish. It's my first car and feel like it could do with something to give it a kick. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/vauxhall/corsa/hatchback-2006/48109/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; my specs any reccomendations what I can do with it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13339" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T08:40:24.743" Title="Increase my cars BHP?" Tags="|performance|vauxhall|corsa|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T12:40:31.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, that happens a lot.  I hold my key with my fingers touching the metal, and tap the edge of the door after I turn.  I suspect that the turn-while-seated is when the static charge is generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16124" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T12:40:31.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29642" CreationDate="2016-05-16T12:48:05.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number one rule, as always, is safety - and this means keeping people out of the way. Firstly make sure you have everyone out of, and clear of, the vehicle, especially anyone not directly involved in the recovery. Switch off the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure all the kit you intend to use is in good condition, and rated for well over the vehicle's weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the area, and make a plan - which direction did the car go in? Can it come back out the same way, or are there obstacles which will make it harder? Is there room to tip it straight back over? Ideally you don't want to have to move it while it's not on it's wheels, as that will cause more damage. If it's on it's roof, you'll probably want to do the recovery in two stages - first back onto it's side, then onto it's wheels. If you're tipping it onto it's side, try to arrange a 'cushion' for it to fall on (branches, scrub, soft sand etc) to reduce the risk of further damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out what attachment points you can use on the car (nice solid things, ideally the chassis or fixed towing points, but optionally axles, suspension mounts or similar - never bodywork). As you need to be pulling the car sideways, try to locate a suitable place to pull from - a big, solid tree is ideal, or somewhere you can fix a ground anchor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any risk of the recoveree sliding into a worse position, secure it with one or more lines to suitable solid objects away from the possible direction of slide. If needed, wedge some big bits of wood underneath to support the vehicle. Never get under the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the next vehicle (you weren't on your own, were you?) to a close-ish but safe distance back on the track. If you're using a tree, wrap a strop or tow-strap around the tree to protect it - then attach a big D-shackle to this to feed the tow-line through. If the going is soft or slippery, also secure the recovery vehicle to a solid object or another vehicle, so it can't slide towards the recoveree. If you're using a winch, also chock the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have another vehicle, a hand winch / come-a-long like that shown in @Moab's answer should work, but is more dangerous as you have to be close to the tensioned cable - go diagonally across the track to another tree or ground anchor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the tow line (ideally a winch cable, otherwise a strong rope or tow strap - never use a kinetic rope for this) from the recovery vehicle, through the D shackle, to the attachment point on the recoveree - this point should be as high as possible, for example, if the car is on it's right-hand side, the attachment point should be on the left-hand side of the vehicle - which is now the top. Try to make sure the car is being pulled as close to right-angles as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure all people are well away from the tow-line before taking up the slack - a broken cable will whip around, and can easily kill. Don't let anyone get below the vehicle either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gradually take up the slack, and begin to tip the vehicle back onto it's wheels. Remember that once it passes the balance point, it will drop suddenly, and will bounce on it's suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a hand winch, go bit by bit - lift the vehicle a few inches with the winch, tighten the additional securing lines and/or add more bracing under the car, repeat until a few degrees short of the tipping point - this means if the winch fails, the car will only drop a few inches. Don't go anywhere near it as it gets near the tipping point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detach the ropes, and assess the damage...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T12:48:05.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29720" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:08:40.870" Score="3" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone has crashed with my wife's Micra while she was at work, and we have just noticed that the vent is missing, I'm unable to find a replacement online, do I have to get a new bumper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hY2Cd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hY2Cd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17367" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:28:07.707" Title="Nissan Micra 2015 (K13) - Missing front bumper vent" Tags="|nissan|parts|bumper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:10:33.983" Score="3" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 02 impala is either maintaining or picks up speed after I let off the gas pedal. It's almost acting like the cruise control in on, so I pulled the fuse to the cruise. The problem stopped for a week or so, then started doing it again,and it does it randomly,  .. any ideas on why it's doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17368" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T13:57:10.147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:57:10.147" Title="Maintains speed when I let off the gas" Tags="|acceleration|cruise-control|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29718" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:28:07.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the only two places you'll be able to get one of those is either the Nissan Main Dealer or a local breakers yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest giving your local main dealer a call as you may be surprised by the price.  I personally always try the main dealer first and quite frequently find their prices are competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:28:07.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29715" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:36:54.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing engine performance is going to fall into a couple different categories - tuning, increase air flow, reduce losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you do anything, make sure your engine is in good working order.  Change the fluids, change the spark plugs, make sure brakes and suspension are in good order.  You may be able to look around online and find a performance ecu chip that will give more aggressive fuel and spark curve.  Beware of what you are getting though, a lot of them are fake/junk.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing air flow is typically the first thing you do to increase engine performance.  A couple of quick/easy/cheap bolt on mods are a cold air intake, and less restrictive exhaust.  Here are a list of the common parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;easy / cheap:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cold air intake - pipes and cone filter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;exhaust headers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;low restriction exhaust - cat, muffler, pipes&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;little big harder and more expensive:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;larger throttle body&lt;br&gt;&#xA;intake manifold&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sportier cam shaft&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum power:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Increase bore and/or stroke for more displacement&lt;br&gt;&#xA;higher compression&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ported head&lt;br&gt;&#xA;larger valves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;turbo, supercharger, and/or nitrous&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make significant changes, you may need to upgrade other parts to keep up and supply enough fuel.  I don't know enough about the specifics of your vehicle to say exactly needs to be done.  Likely an ECU tuned to deliver sufficient fuel, and possibly a MAF that can keep up with increased air flow.  Your stock ECU should be able to keep up with smaller changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another place you can look is reducing losses.  A few things that come to mind are a lightweight under drive pulley, and a lightweight flywheel.  Also, any weight you can remove from the car will aid acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall drive ratio is important for acceleration also.  You would want to increase this ratio for more acceleration.  You would either need to find a transmission with closer gearing, or a higher final drive ratio.  You can also decrease your tire size.  Both of these changes will sacrifice MPG for power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing any mods, I always like to find a forum for people with the same vehicle to see what changes they have made, what worked, and what didn't.  You can sometimes find cheap parts for sale, and its a good way to find vehicle specific vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T13:48:33.943" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:48:33.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29719" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:51:46.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Honda did this, I found it was the floor mat getting jammed against the gas pedal. Other than this it could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Worn out gas pedal cable, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extremely dirty throttle body that is sticking, in this case clean the throttle body with approved throttle body spray cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:51:46.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29724" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:58:54.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new 2016 RAV4. I'm thinking about getting a body side molding to protect it from door dings. They will install it right in the Toyota dealership  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have three questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. In general:&lt;/strong&gt; Is &lt;code&gt;bsm&lt;/code&gt; a good protection against door dings?&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;strong&gt;2. When installing it:&lt;/strong&gt; Can&lt;code&gt;bsm&lt;/code&gt;damage the paint? They will only glue it, no screws or nails, right?&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;strong&gt;3. When removing it:&lt;/strong&gt; If I want to remove it later, will this damage the door paint? I know it will be slightly off color since there was no exposure to sunlight. But everything will eventually even out I hope&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read Toyota &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/toyota-camry/T7KNSSJUAKT2TPCN4/p16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt;. So paint is one of the weak spots for Toyota. So I'm worried about it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16843" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T15:35:28.743" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:35:28.743" Title="Does body side molding damage the paint?" Tags="|toyota|body-work|rav4|trim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29723" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:04:56.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depends on how long it is on there, when the glue dries out it can be hard to remove without damaging the paint (if you need to do remove them for some reason), also the paint will not match anymore as the rest of the car will fade slightly, the paint under the molding will not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See 2&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:04:56.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:19:53.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick that has worked well for me in preventing the musty smell is to turn the A/C off but leave the blower on about a minute or so before reaching your destination (if you are going to be parked for a while). It seems this allows accumulated moisture in the system to be removed before shutting the blower down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16950" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:19:53.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:24:06.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this with a relatively modern car (2008 Honda Civic) a couple of years ago, and it was getting progressively worse. In the end I found that there was a small crack in the battery casing. When I replaced the battery the problem disappeared and never came back, so that might be worth investigating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2387" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:24:06.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:30:19.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest using DampRid or similar desiccant. You essentially put a container, (usually supplied with the product) in the car in a inconspicuous spot. It pulls quite a bit of moisture from the air. This dries out the ducts and vents and will reduce mold build up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put it in the vents. You put it under a seat, or in the truck depending on how your car is. It can pull an amazing amount of moisture out of the air, and even a minor change can totally eliminate mold buildup. Do keep it in the jar/jug/container, don't spread it around. It won't hurt much if a little is spills, but a lot of it will ruin your carpets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16202" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T14:30:19.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29715" CreationDate="2016-05-16T14:34:17.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the only realistic option with a 1.3 liter turbodiesel besides an engine swap is chiptuning/remapping. And even then I'd research the potential of this engine, you'll be shortening it's life considerably. Many performance oriented modifications will work, but in my opinion are simply not worth the investment with this engine, as the gains will be minimal. It's just not the right engine for &quot;a kick&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T15:35:36.417" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:35:36.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29715" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:33:00.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot you can do with a 1.3CDTi - as the others have said, make sure it's in the best condition you can, but you're not going to get the 'kick' you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're fairly young, and in the UK (as you link to a UK site for the specs) - you'll almost certainly find that any modification will cause your insurance to rocket far more than the car's performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:33:00.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:25:15.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you open the door, but BEFORE you put your foot on the ground, grab a metal part of the car with your hand. Step out of the vehicle, and then release your hand.  Your body will still discharge the static electricity to ground, but because you are holding firmly to the car, there is no air gap for a spark to occur, and the larger surface area that you are touching with means that you won't feel the charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15191" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T16:25:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T17:04:27.210" Score="7" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I painted my house last year and got some water base Latex paint over spray on my 89 Honda, any ideas how to soften and remove it other than a polisher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint on this Honda does not have a clear coat and is the original White paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:09:32.697" Title="How to remove latex over spray from my 89 Honda" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29739" CreationDate="2016-05-16T17:16:06.237" Score="8" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I tried to open the passenger-side door (of my 2001 VW Eurovan) but it appears to be stuck.  The door is unlocked.  I can pull the handle, but apparently not far enough to operate the door mechanism.  Same for both interior and exterior door handles.  The other doors appear to be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock/unlock with the remote keyfob appears OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried lock/unlock with the actual physical key, but it seems that I can only push the key about 2/3rds of the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it appears that some numskull joker tried to jimmy my door yesterday evening, failed, but left something (part of a key, perhaps) in the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips/advice for removing whatever object is stuck in the lock myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this something I'll need a mechanic or a locksmith to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Update:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the door was not openable at all, but I fiddled with it a bit more and it turns out I can open it with the interior door handle.  I'll take the door cover off later to see what I can find - I know how to do this from when I fixed the powerwindows :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T19:04:52.147" Title="How can I fix a key broken off in a door lock?" Tags="|vw|key|locks|door|euro-van|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29733" CreationDate="2016-05-16T17:24:26.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to find a way to open the door, slim jim or other tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the door is open you need to remove the lock cylinder to get the broken key out. Depending on the vehicle how hard or easy this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder may have been damaged and would need replaced and re-pinned to your key, this would require a locksmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can remove the lock cylinder yourself this will save money when you take it to a locksmith shop for repair or replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fastest way to repair this is to call a locksmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T17:24:26.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29732" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:04:32.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I soften the paint with brake cleaner. Dampen a rag with brake clean and then rub gently for 60 seconds or less. Then use a medium cutting compound on a random orbit polisher. For thick deposits several applications may be needed. Wait a few minutes between tries to let the solvent flash off. Test the brake clean on a out of the way spot first to see if the paint will tolerate the process. The older the latex paint the harder it gets and therefore it takes longer to soften.&#xA; It is usually required to polish the whole car due to the difference in luster of the cleaned area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:04:32.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29732" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:09:32.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are products which can remove it for you. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parish-supply.com/latex-paint-remover.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example&lt;/a&gt;, though I don't know if it will &lt;em&gt;specifically not damage&lt;/em&gt; painted surfaces, as it states it is for hard surfaces. I know there are also some wipes out there which will do the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmBcL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmBcL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, once the latex is dried, it becomes much harder to remove. You'll also need to consider replenishing the wax coating onto the surface of the paint, as whatever you use will be sure to strip all of it off, leaving the surface unprotected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:09:32.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:41:05.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can add a strap that rubs on the road. It bleeds off static charge continuously. It is easy to install but has somewhat limited life. They do work, we have installed several over the years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMy7n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMy7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vehicle to ground strap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that it is important to bleed off the charge before removing the fuel cap. There are stories of fires being ignited by the spark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:41:05.677" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29709" CreationDate="2016-05-16T18:59:41.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like one of the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low Power Steering fluid, add fluid&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faulty Power Steering Pump, replace pump&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loose or worn Power Steering belt, adjust or replace belt&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steering Rack issue, replace rack assembly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:59:41.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29733" CreationDate="2016-05-16T19:04:22.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if this would be the best way to attack the problem, but here's what I would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the interior door handle and fiddle with the linkage trying to get the door to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work, remove that passenger's seat so you have room to work.  Remove the door cover.  Hopefully this can be done with the door closed.  Even if you can't get it all the way off, hopefully you can remove it enough to get your hand in there and move the linkage manually.  Try to move the linkage as close to the lock as possible.  You might even be able to remove the lock.  Try to find diagrams of the door beforehand so you know how the linkage is setup and where everything is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T19:04:22.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29751" CreationDate="2016-05-16T19:14:25.163" Score="2" ViewCount="3466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain to me what the purpose of bushing is in a motor and what would happen if it was not present? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17376" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T23:44:27.307" Title="Bushing in a motor?" Tags="|motors|bushing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-05-17T07:54:24.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29740" CreationDate="2016-05-16T19:19:33.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bushings are used to hold the ends of the motor shaft aligned. The motor shaft goes into the bushing and spins inside of it. You can see the bushing and the shaft in this image and get a good idea of how it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXlAw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXlAw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;motor bushing assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T19:19:33.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29715" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:02:39.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a cheap non-permanent modification with enough HP that you can feel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution would be a propane and nitrous spray before the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The propane acts as extra fuel to burn, which will increase power up to the point that all oxygen gets consumed. Past that point the exhaust will start getting really smoky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you add nitrous to burn off all the extra fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T21:02:39.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:30:47.433" Score="6" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my cars is a 1987 Chrysler LeBaron GTS, which originally belonged to my mother, and has only 30,000 miles on it. Occasionally, the accelerator pedal will go to the floor. (My mother took excellent care of the car - garaged -so much so that it looks factory new.)  The first time this happened to me was last winter when I was coming off the exit ramp of the interstate. It was a long downhill ride to the light.  I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to keep at the 30 mph exit speed, and suddenly the pad went right to the floor. As soon as I applied the break the car slowed down.  It freaked me out but I chalked it up as an anomaly due to icy roads even though the car had studded snow tires (2 years old).  Then, a few months later it happened again while on the highway. I immediately took it to my mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Even the floor mats were not in the way. Despite all that this still happens, and has been increasing in frequency to the point where I no longer drive the car. Today, my sister went on line and read at the Car Guy that the first sign of a transmission going is when the accelerator pedal goes straight to the floor.  Is this true and if so can anything be done short of replacing the transmission?  Quite honestly, I don't want to waste money on a car this old and will sell it to a collector instead.  But, I happen to like the car and the way it handles, so would prefer to keep it if it doesn't cost me an arm and leg to do so. Any ideas besides this that can help me figure this out?  Thanks for any advice and ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17378" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T22:16:31.750" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:18:59.423" Title="Accelerator pedal goes to the floor sporadically while driving" Tags="|chrysler|acceleration|lebaron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:45:21.720" Score="2" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my clutch repaired almost a year ago. But I have not been the regular driver of the truck. As I went to drive it a week ago I noticed that the clutch is staying engaged while the pedal is being pressed, causing the truck to stall. I checked the fluid and it is full. Why is this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17379" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T21:52:36.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T21:56:00.750" Title="95 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Clutch Staying Engaged" Tags="|toyota|clutch|tacoma|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-17T11:47:48.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14845" CreationDate="2016-05-16T21:52:25.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-solenoid/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-solenoid/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 6 solenoids in a automatic transmission  (from the transmission guy repair website)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque convertor clutch solenoid, 2-3 upshift,3-2 downshift, &lt;strong&gt;1-2 upshift&lt;/strong&gt;, pressure control, Torque convertor clutch pulse width modulation solenoid valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission Solenoid: Function &amp;amp; Common Problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While manual transmissions make use of the clutch to change gears, automatic transmissions rely on a complicated hydraulic system for shifting, and the transmission solenoid is especially important for this process. Transmission fluid is directed throughout the valve body by various transmission solenoids–such as the transmission shift solenoid, lockup solenoid, or transmission control solenoid (there’s also a torque converter clutch solenoid)–that either open or close hydraulic valves to regulate fluid flow. Speed sensors around the engine are responsible for activating the solenoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can guess, the transmission solenoid is a required component of a functioning transmission, and any solenoid that starts malfunctioning only spells trouble. So today we’ll explain its function, common problems that can occur, and everything you need to know about replacement here.&#xA;What Does a Transmission Solenoid Do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The automatic transmission relies on bands and clutches to change gears, and the only way they can be applied is by fluid pressure. The transmission solenoid is responsible for opening or closing valves in the valve body to allow transmission fluid to enter, at which point the fluid can do its thing and pressurize the clutches and bands. Solenoids consist of a spring loaded plunger wrapped with a coil of wire, and communicates with the car’s engine sensors or the transmission control module (TCM) via electronic signals to either open or close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensors determine when it’s time to shift gears depending on vehicle and engine speed. If the transmission solenoid is energized, the plunger opens and allows fluid to pass while a solenoid that is not receiving power is closed in its normal position. So while the various engine sensors determine when the gears should shift, it is the job of the transmission solenoid to act out the actual shifting. transmission solenoid locations - transmission repair guy&#xA;Common Transmission Solenoid Problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably guess already that a lot of shifting problems can be attributed to a malfunctioning shift solenoid since they are responsible for regulating fluid pressure. A transmission that receives too much fluid pressure will have rough shifting, while not enough can cause clutch plates to overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electrical malfunction will cause the solenoid to act erratically and when the check engine light comes on, a quick scan of the car’s computer should tell you what’s wrong. If you do receive an OBD code, you can bring your transmission to a certified mechanic to have it diagnosed and fixed. If the check engine light doesn’t appear but you are experiencing shifting problems, the problem with the solenoid is most likely a mechanical issue which replacement of the part should solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are typical signs of a malfunctioning transmission solenoid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delay in shifting – A delay in shifting can last as little as a few seconds or even longer, possibly a minute or longer. During this period your car will act as if it’s in neutral and you won’t be able to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission does not downshift – A functioning transmission automatically downshifts as it slows down and changes to first gear once you reach a complete stop. However, a bad shift solenoid will cause your transmission to downshift uncontrollably or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission does not shift into the right gear – A defective solenoid can also cause your transmission to shift to the wrong gear, skip a gear, or shift back and forth unpredictably. Take notice of these changes as you attempt to shift as any of these reasons warrants a look at the solenoid.&#xA;Transmission Solenoid Replacement and Cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’ve scanned the computer and have an OBD code relating to the solenoid, or you’ve isolated the problem to a mechanical issue with it, then transmission solenoid replacement might be necessary. Oftentimes, replacing a transmission solenoid will take no more than 2 hours, and repair shops on average charge $60 to $100 per hour for labor, not including cost of parts (a replacement solenoid should cost you no more than $200) or shop fees. However, costs can vary depending on what specific transmission solenoid you’re looking to replace. Some solenoids can only be replaced by removing the complete valve body, which can take a significant amount of time and therefore can be expensive because of shop fees per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T21:52:25.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6477" CreationDate="2016-05-16T22:14:38.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be the 3-4 upshift solenoid as well as the torque convertor clutch solenoid is bad? The upshift solenoid failing would explain why 4th doesn't stay engaged and if the torque  remains engaged when downshifting could explain the low rpm. I would be interested about the 7 major problems -sounds like major money for mechanic... I would take it to a transmission specialist first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:14:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29743" CreationDate="2016-05-16T22:18:59.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, it sounds like there is an issue with the cruise control. If the cruise control &quot;thought&quot; you wanted to accelerate for whatever reason, it would do exactly as you stated and peg the gas to the floor. Then, when you apply the brakes, it would tell the cruise to shut down. I don't remember how the cruise is actuated on the LeBaron, but IIRC, it's on the turn signal. I wouldn't know if it would be the control or the unit which would be causing the issue, but needless to say, I think I'd unplug it (in the engine bay) until you can have a mechanic look at it. The last thing you need is for uncontrolled acceleration to be going on when you are just trying to tool down the lane. Could get ugly really quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:18:59.423" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-16T22:38:13.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try spraying the upholstery with an anti-static spray, like what is used on the carpet in computer rooms and offices with computer equipment. Perhaps the spray used on clothing to prevent static cling would work also?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15009" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:38:13.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-16T23:25:28.743" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;While pressing on the clutch pedal, the clutch plate is staying engaged. I have watched the slave cylinder and it is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17380" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T00:57:17.460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T21:39:19.847" Title="95 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 clutch plate staying engaged" Tags="|toyota|tacoma|clutch-plate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29740" CreationDate="2016-05-16T23:44:27.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some people call plain bearings bushings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The etymology can be different based upon geography.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 'bushing' in your engine it can commonly refer to a crankshaft plain bearing or a connecting rod plan bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the wiki on '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_bearing#Bushing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;bushing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plain bearing that is missing out of an engine would be unusual.  To remove a crankshaft plain bearing an engine would have to be torn down, the same goes for connecting rods.  Sometimes these bearing can be accessed from the bottom of the motor via removal of the oil pan at the bottom of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a plain bearing is to reduce space between the crankshaft and the engine crankcase so that lubrication can be delivered to this area and the crankshaft.  The crankshaft would float on a cushion of oil between the crankshaft and the plain bearing.  If there is metal to metal contact the engine will destroy itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this provides a viable explanation to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T23:44:27.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29750" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:57:04.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the clutch slave cylinder moves, it doesn't mean &lt;em&gt;it's moving enough&lt;/em&gt;. If the hydraulics need to be bled, the clutch won't disengage and the friction disk will be dragging on the pressure plate and flywheel. What you are describing is indicative of the clutch needing bled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Considering what you said in your comment, it means you need either a new master or slave (or both). One of the two is leaking back after the pedal is depressed. One of them is worn out. When pressure is applied, the fluid leaks past it and the slave goes back into position. If I were you, I'd replace them both and call it a day. Remember, you'll have to bleed them once they are changed out. I bet you are a pro at that by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T21:39:19.847" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T21:39:19.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T02:08:03.607" Score="4" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has an '01 Accord, light grey interior.  Her leather wrapped steering wheel was gunky and sticky and probably has never been cleaned, so I bought some leather cleaner, conditioner (both chemical guys), and some microfiber cloths and went to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel was light grey to match the interior, but now its mostly black.  My research leads me to believe the UV light, sweat, body oil, and time eroded the color/coating on the leather and now we're left with just &quot;leather&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way to dye, or refinish, the wheel leather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking something along these lines: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leatherworldtech.com/Acura-Honda-Leather-Dye-Colors-s/1844.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.leatherworldtech.com/Acura-Honda-Leather-Dye-Colors-s/1844.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5066" LastEditorUserId="5066" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T13:32:20.183" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:32:20.183" Title="How can I restore leather color?" Tags="|cleaning|interior|leather|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29249" CreationDate="2016-05-17T02:56:24.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Empty and change your diff fluid, gearbox fluid and transfer case fluid.&#xA;When the fluids are out and in the pan, run a magnet through each to see if you can collect any metal pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being an evo, I'd be suspecting either diff or transfer case as the first thing to look at. When the teeth in the gears and clutch packs inside the diffs start to fail, they can roll around in there making all sorts of noises. As the rpm's increase, these pieces can end up more towards the outside of the case so it's less noticeable (until the moment of total failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it where wheel bearings, you'd likely notice the noise at all rpm's I would have imagined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T02:56:24.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29628" CreationDate="2016-05-17T10:34:05.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pry up on top the center portion of the plug with a small screw driver and it will slide up and release the latch on the connector. Then the plug slides off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T10:39:56.487" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T10:39:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T11:02:09.083" Score="4" ViewCount="11056" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ford forgo 2012 diesel refuses to start after driving long distances, but it usually starts well when it is cold. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17388" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T04:20:58.747" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T05:43:02.617" Title="Diesel engine won't start when hot" Tags="|ford|starting|troubleshooting|diesel|hot-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29759" CreationDate="2016-05-17T12:23:29.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Mazda 6 to 6 who's paint is in pretty decent condition.  however there is a little bit I've transferred paint and a few small scratches here and there that I'm planning on dealing with.  obviously I have to wash it prior to doing touch up polishing and waxing.  however I can't find a car soap here that is just soap, all have silicone or wax in them. I'm not worried about using wax remover because I don't think this car has never been waxed.  could I just wash it this one time with liquid dish soap in preparation for my touch up work?  I've heard people say never to use dish soap and I wanted to find out what the issues are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:11:42.153" Title="can I use Liquid dish soap to wash a car prior to polishing" Tags="|cleaning|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-17T13:20:19.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29757" CreationDate="2016-05-17T13:11:42.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be potentially controversial here and say yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason people say never to use washing up liquid is because it strips all of the waxes from the car.  If you intend to subsequently apply wax, there is an argument to say that this is actually the best soap to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally used washing up liquid followed by a thorough rinse and chamois to prepare a car for paint renovation (i.e. abrasive &quot;cutting&quot;), polishing and waxing and have to say that it works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:11:42.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29711" CreationDate="2016-05-17T13:21:50.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or does it has any relation to weather, I think it happens in cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two aspects that may make the effect larger on colder days. The main factor is that the air is dryer, so the charge the car develops as it moves through the air can be larger, and takes longer to discharge.  The second factor is that people usually wear warmer clothing, and often this type of clothing creates and retains a greater static charge that warmer weather clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do others face it as well and how do you avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, as long as the car is insulated from the ground then you will experience this.  What's happening is actually two discharges.  When you start to get out you are charged to the potential of the car.  Then your foot touches the ground and you discharge to the ground.  Then you touch the car door and you become the path for all of the car's charge to discharge to ground.  It's this second discharge that you feel - the first one happens through footwear and often is unnoticed, also your body doesn't carry as much charge as the vehicle, so the first discharge is relatively small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conductive strap hanging below the car works to eliminate this problem entirely.  When travelling quickly, the air pushes the strap up so it doesn't wear on the road all the time, but they do have to be replaced periodically. These disallow high charges to develop on the car, and don't themselves create sparks because the potential is simply never allowed to get that high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I touch the door with the back of my hand or fingers after I get out, so the discharge occurs on the back of my hand or fingers.  This is much less sensitive than my fingertips where I'd usually contact the car to close the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you can weld small needles to the metal frame of the car pointing toward the ground.  When the car is at a high potential, these will &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/35614/is-lightning-attracted-to-pointy-objects&quot;&gt;emit electrons and discharge the potential&lt;/a&gt; more quickly than the rounded, painted edges of the car. I don't know if this discharge would be fast enough to eliminate the shocks you feel, though, since you stop the car and immediately exit, but it should reduce them without the ground contact of a strap.  You'll need to choose a metal, alloy, or conductive covering that won't rust, or you'll be replacing them frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a part of the car you hold onto as you exit, attaching a wire from that part to the frame will also work.  So on my van I hold onto the door handle as I exit the vehicle.  It's plastic, though, so it doesn't conduct the vehicle's charge to me until I touch the outer edge of the door frame.  There are screws in the handle, so if I touched the screws, or attached copper tape along the inside edge of the handle to the screws then the discharge would happen at my feet as I left the vehicle, rather than between the door and my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you can get some plastic edge guards for the door frame.  If you install one and train yourself to only ever touch that as you close the door you should find the discharges go away.  If your trip away from the car was short, though, you'll get a shock as you touch the door handle or door when you return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conductive strap, however, is a cheap simple solution, available for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0057UNFDW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$10 including shipping&lt;/a&gt; from some online stores, and can probably be found or ordered at your local auto parts stores. Hang it well under the vehicle where it won't be easily seen if you don't want well meaning people to constantly notify you that you've got something hanging under your car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T13:21:50.523" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20839" CreationDate="2016-05-17T14:36:05.307" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;15w50 you can use for Apache rtr 160.&#xA;It's recommended and bike is very smooth with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17395" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T14:36:05.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29709" CreationDate="2016-05-17T15:08:25.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@user66001 Apparently you can... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/steering_rack~pop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/steering_rack~pop.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering Rack Products&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving down the street you notice a certain stiffness with the steering. Not the usual play that you expect, it almost seems that a bit of resistance is taking place. No matter, you continue down the road and forget about it as the problem has seemed to have gone away. The next day you start your car up and as you back out of the driveway it happens again. This time, you do everything in your power to avoid hitting your neighbor's lawn statue. There is little give in your steering. A check under your hood may reveal that your car's steering rack is the culprit. If so, you need to get it replaced before serious trouble sets in. You see, when your car is cold that is when steering rack problems are most noticeable. Eventually, as the part continues to wear your steering problem will worsen. Can you imagine being on the freeway and not being able to steer clear of something in the road. That can be dangerous, even deadly. Yes, we stock steering racks and we have one for your car. Check our online catalog and order your part today. Our web store never closes.&#xA;Buying Guides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tweet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date Published : July 30,2014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing the Right Steering Rack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is separated from your entire steering system, the steering rack might look like a worthless metal rod. But without the steering rack, your car would not be able to maneuver through the streets. So if your steering wheel starts feeling a little loose or you suddenly notice your tires are misaligned, it's about time you replace your steering rack.&#xA;Know your steering system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your steering rack is part of bigger system-the rack-and-pinion assembly-the type of steering rack you need would depend on the steering system you have on your car. Most cars are powered by normal rack-and-pinion steering. The steering rack for this kind of rack-and-pinion gear set is relatively easy to spot. It's a simple, lightweight rack with differently sized metal teeth. Unlike a simple steering system, a power steering system's rack has a slightly different design and contains more parts. On the middle of the steering rack, you'll find a cylinder with a piston. This piston is designed with two fluid ports to direct higher-pressure fluid to one of its side and eventually provide the power needed to steer your car. So if your car has a power steering system installed, finding the right steering rack can be more tedious. Aside from looking at the quality and fit of the rack for a power steering system, you should also inspect the fluid ports and their compatibility with your steering system's fluid lines.&#xA;Purchase the entire assembly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you have a normal rack-and-pinion system or a power-assisted one, be sure that your steering rack includes fittings for inner tie rods. This ensures that everything will fit perfectly with the entire system. This will also help you prevent leaks. Another advantage of purchasing the entire assembly instead of just one part is that there are no core changes made on the assembly. This eliminates the hassle of returning your old part for a core refund. So remember, when buying a new steering rack, don't just buy the rack-buy the complete assembly for a more direct fit and increased life span.&#xA;Check the warranty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any part of your car, never purchase without a warranty. This saves you time, effort, and money if the serviced part is not functioning as expected. The standard warranty for steering racks is for one year. The mileage terms will vary according to the type of steering system you have. Since a normal rack-and-pinion steering has less moveable parts (add to this the fact that it's usually used for smaller loads), it is usually covered by an unlimited mileage warranty. On the other hand, the more complicated system, like a power steering system, is more susceptible to wear. Therefore, it does not have the same warranty terms as a normal system. Distributors and sellers usually cover 15,000 to 18,000 miles.&#xA;Repair Guides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tweet&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date Published : July 30,2014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing a New Steering Rack on Your Power Steering System&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your wheel feel a little loose? Do you hear thudding and clunking sounds when you drive? Are your tires more worn than they should be? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then there might be something wrong with your steering rack. Before your whole steering system gets worse, replace your steering rack with these easy steps:&#xA;Difficulty level: Easy&#xA;Things you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Jack&#xA;Jack stands&#xA;Brake line wrench set&#xA;Power steering fluid&#xA;Ratchet and socket set&#xA;New steering rack&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Lift and secure your car using a jack and jack stands. You will be crawling underneath your vehicle to work on your steering rack, so be sure that your car is properly secured. Also see to it that your wheels are straight and the steering wheel is locked before working on the rack itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: Once you've got a good view of your steering rack, remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: Now that you've loosen all the bolts and attachments, locate your power steering lines. It is usually connected to the rack with the brake line wrenches. Since these lines carry a lot of pressure, crack them first before loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: Remove the bolts from the steering rack and pull this off from the column. Remember that before unbolting the rack from the frame, it should be properly supported with either your hand or a spare set of jack stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 5: Put your new steering rack in place. Center it before completely installing the rack. Reassemble all the other parts that were removed in steps 2 to 4 in reverse order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 6: Properly secure all bolts and make sure everything is in place before testing your installation job. To test your new steering rack, unlock your steering wheel (while your car is still lifted) and turn the wheels from side to side 10 times. Aside from knowing if you've installed the rack correctly, testing your steering rack will also help work the air out of the power steering system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T15:08:25.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29628" CreationDate="2016-05-17T15:41:28.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ben is correct, although I'd already figured it out by this point.&#xA;This connector contains a weatherproof seal, which combined with the 34 pins would make it difficult to remove. So this plug cleverly has a clip whose main purpose is to evenly prise the plug out of it's socket as you slide it upwards. A very clever design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is released&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lf329.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lf329.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Astra H Door connector (released)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the red-herring is the clip which keeps the rubber boot in place. Shown here unclipped&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KrNcX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KrNcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I doubt there is anyone quite as stupid as me... but when you have to leave the car to go  and get your multimeter - don't slam the door shut with the connector dangling loose. It won't end well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13223" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T15:41:28.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29733" CreationDate="2016-05-17T15:53:06.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the door open you'll see a screw, usually with a splined bit head, which goes into the handle.  Simply remove this screw then grasp the handle, slide it towards the front of the vehicle and gently pull the rear of the handle towards you.  Once this piece is clear slide the handle back towards the rear of the vehicle and it will come away from the door complete with lock barrel and the operating paddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can this strip the paddle mechanism from the back side of the lock barrel, release the retaining clip and the whole lock barrel will slide out of the handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T15:53:06.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29770" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:53:46.543" Score="16" ViewCount="4233" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know if the airbags have expired? Is it the same years for every airbag? Maybe they can be checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if I have the airbags expired, what would be the consequences of using the car? Would the airbags get activated without a crash? Or if I have a crash, would they still protect me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that replacing the airbags is something expensive and I want to know what the risks are. I am about to buy a Golf GTI '99 so that means that the airbags are 17 years old (if never changed, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12321" LastEditorUserId="12321" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:46:07.773" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T17:27:56.087" Title="How can I know if the airbags have expired and what are the consequences?" Tags="|replace|supplemental-restraint-system|security|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29756" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:54:12.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely you have injector(s) leaking down when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not that it can be a fuel pump or fuel pump pressure control, newer diesels can be complicated to diagnose here due to computer controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:54:12.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29765" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:58:26.113" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safercar.gov/rs/takata/takatalist.html&quot;&gt;check to see if your car is under the current Takata Air Bag recall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does an Airbag Expire?&#xA;  While some automakers have set time limits on when to replace an airbag, the actual components are extremely durable. The key difference is the type of seal used to house the airbag igniter, also known as the squib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Almost all squibs since Day One have used what is called 'glass-to-metal' sealing, which is the best for moisture protection,&quot; says Douglas Campbell, who is president of the Automotive Safety Council and has worked in the airbag industry for more than 25 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Some earlier non-North American models may have used 'plastic-to-metal' seals, which would have passed the vehicle life tests, but are considered to be potentially not as robust in extreme testing,&quot; Campbell says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leo Knowlden, a field performance assessment engineer for General Motors, said that GM has used glass-to-metal seals on all its airbags since the very beginning. A plastic-to-metal seal is more likely to accumulate moisture over the years, Knowlden says. This can lead to corrosion of the electrical pins in the igniter and potentially lead to a less responsive airbag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As proof of the lifetime durability of GM airbags, Knowlden pointed to a 1992 Insurance Institute for Highway Safety study, where a rusty 1972 Chevrolet Impala was crash-tested and both the driver's airbag and passenger airbag successfully deployed. That Impala was one of the first 1,000 airbag-equipped cars made by GM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And similarly, &quot;airbags from 1990s vehicles are operating correctly in today's accidents,&quot; says Campbell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) knows of successful deployments of airbags more than 30 years after production, says Jose Ucles, a NHTSA spokesperson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/car-safety/do-car-airbags-expire.html&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:58:26.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29380" CreationDate="2016-05-17T17:57:04.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: While I do believe I still had bad calipers as it did make a noticeable difference in performance, a few weeks later I ended up seeing the same issue AGAIN. This time I took it to my trusted brake shop, and they ended up diagnosing a bad ABS unit. Could this have been the problem all along and just changing the calipers released enough pressure that I got along with softer-than-necessary brakes for a few weeks? Possibly. Hard to say. Just wanted to add more info here in case anyone discovers this in the future with the same issue. Check (or have your shop check) your ABS unit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Answer: Well, @paulster2 gets it right again. 2 bad calipers in a row. Got a different caliper from another parts store and put it on and it is working great today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ultimate diagnostic test in determining that it had to be a faulty caliper was this: Once I drove the truck around and got the brake nice and tight, I jacked it up, pulled the wheel off, and opened the bleeder valve. a small amount of fluid came up but not very much and the caliper was still tight. I had read about this troubleshooting technique but I kept trying to figure out things further up in the brake system. But ultimately I realized that &lt;strong&gt;any pressure further up in the line, no matter the source, could be relieved at the bleeder&lt;/strong&gt;. So I did the bleeder test and even pulled the caliper back and forth with the rotor loose and it never released (but the new slide pins allowed the caliper to move beautifully). I even took off the supply line with the intention of replacing the caliper and then tried it again (so nothing was connected to it) and still frozen. Bad caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lesson 1: Buy RockAuto or Napa. Lesson 2: Don't trust the probabilities. Trust the facts :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastEditorUserId="7859" LastEditDate="2022-03-25T14:40:28.020" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T14:40:28.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T19:33:35.293" Score="5" ViewCount="9491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I was finally able to bleed my clutch system. I even put a vacuum pump on it to try and get the air out. But no air. After trying that I had someone pumping on the clutch and then releasing the valve. But when the clutch is pressed in the slave cylinder goes back in. Does this mean the the slave cylinder is bad?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKLsb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKLsb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17380" LastEditorUserId="17380" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T20:36:52.087" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T13:11:11.407" Title="Trying to bleed clutch system" Tags="|toyota|clutch-cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29765" CreationDate="2016-05-17T19:42:01.810" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general airbags don't have an expiration date.  The airbags in a modern vehicle are designed to last for life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers have service intervals for the airbags, but it's normally a visual check and making sure the SRS (airbag) diagnostic systems is functioning correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes put expiration date stickers on the door sill with an expiration date of 10 years out, but even then they retroactively decided that all air bags installed after 1992 did not have a meaningful expiration date so most of those stickers are meaningless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If airbags &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; expire I think most people would just disable/uninstall them because for a 15 year old car, replacing all the airbags can potentially cost more than the vehicle is worth.  I'm not &lt;em&gt;suggesting&lt;/em&gt; this, I'm just pointing it out as a logic exercise.  If there was a 15yr time-bomb on the value of the vehicle, you'd hear about it a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T19:42:01.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:13:58.150" Score="7" ViewCount="5935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had to do some fixes on my 1993 Kawasaki ZR750. I had some rust in the tank so I got it cleaned and sealed. To be thorough I also checked the rest of the system. Here's what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble the carburetor, clean the housing in an ultrasonic bath, replace valves, needle, etc. and perform the basic setup by the books. After the bike was running again I synchronized them, which was barely necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the petcock in an ultrasonic bath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performing an oil and filter change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing the oil pan, cleaning the oil screen and sealing it again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To be able to remove the oil pan I had to remove the whole exhaust with manifolds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing the spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also installed a new chain kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I did this it first seemed to work like a charm. Then I got to a road with higher speed limit. The engine just cuts of power at about 6000 rpm in neutral. In the 5th gear this is about 95 km/h at 5500 rpm. This doesn't seem to be a gradual loss of power. Until that rpm value it runs better than before but then it just stops.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I then pull the clutch and completely stay of the gas, the rpm stays at 6000 and doesn't drop (at least not in the first few seconds). I have to pull it down with the engine break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue here? I'm suspecting a problem with the carburetor setup. I already checked the throttle cables. Also the fuel flow from tank to carburetor seems to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took her for another test drive today. It was like 10°C colder than last time. I needed full choke for a long time or she stalled in idle. I think it took about 15-20 minutes until idle rpm was reliable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can also confirm the behavior in neutral without load. I can spin her to 6000 rpm without any problems, then she cuts of and stays there until I engage a gear and apply some load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the cold behavior I guess DucatiKiller is right and she is running way too lean. But even if so I do not understand why the rpm doesn't drop and need some aid regarding the setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Managed to do another test drive. First I adjusted the idle mixture a good bit richer and turned up the idling supply a little. Still needed choke for a few minutes but was running smoothly at 1500 rpm idle real quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I took care of the non dropping rpm. If I do it without load, it now stays at 6500-7000 rpm. If I give the damper flaps a little nudge directly at the lever, it comes down. So I think the throttle reset cable has a little too much clearance. Should be easy to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the missing power is no problem with the throttle cable. But I got a little further as well. I noticed that this is not depended on rpm but on the amount of throttle. At high throttle she has no power. But when I release the throttle to a certain point, the power is back. It's not the full power but I managed to get her to a 115 now. Also I noticed a faint &quot;rattling&quot; in the no power zone. Like a cellphone vibrating on a table maybe, but continuous.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm guess now that the low load valve in the carburetor works fine and the high load valve doesn't open up for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17387" LastEditorUserId="17387" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T17:39:03.270" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T13:16:43.637" Title="No power at higher RPM" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29772" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:21:49.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I then pull the clutch and completely stay of the gas, the rpm stays at 6000 and doesn't drop &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you did something wrong during the rebuild, all you can do is pull the carbs and check your work, also check throttle cables for proper routing and adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you clean the fuel tank valve and screen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T20:21:49.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29769" CreationDate="2016-05-17T20:42:11.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I do when having a stubborn clutch slave bleeding problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attach some tubing to an Oil can full of brake fluid, pump the oil can to purge air, then attach the end of the hose to the bleeder valve on the &lt;strong&gt;slave cylinder&lt;/strong&gt;, open the bleeder and pump the oil can to force any air trapped up and into the master reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure the oil can is thoroughly clean as you do not want any contamination of the brake fluid, also use new tubing or vacuum line of the appropriate size that will fit the bleeder tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can self bleed it by full stroking the clutch pedal a few hundred times but is hard on the leg, but sometimes this is the only thing that works, occasionally let the clutch pedal snap up (side step it at the bottom) from the depressed position during this routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRxYr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRxYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not solve it I suspect you have a Clutch Master cylinder that is bypassing, this will reduce the volume of fluid it can push, causing the slave to not extend as far as it needs to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T20:48:10.970" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T20:48:10.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29790" CreationDate="2016-05-17T22:02:19.443" Score="11" ViewCount="2516" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've been looking into buying a higher PSI pressure transducer to do in cylinder pressure testing. I've encountered vehicles which would of benefited from this approach and wish I had thought to try this in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been watching videos on the subject and have a general idea of how in cylinder pressure diagnostics works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples I've seen so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Known good waveforms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged exhaust waveforms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waveforms that show issues with valve sealing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I'd be willing to look at the same waveforms in different engines/conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in learning about how cam timing effects the waveform. Say a chain is stretching and/or a cam gear is one tooth off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just as a broader question, what can an in cylinder pressure test tell me and how can I interpret the waveform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T03:11:20.640" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T12:36:51.357" Title="In Cylinder Pressure Testing With a Pressure Transducer and a Oscilliscope" Tags="|tools|diagnostics|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T23:56:13.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure the problem with my 2004 Nissan Skyline I purchased about a year ago. Every time I start my car it cuts right off and for it to stay on I have to press the gas pedal in order to keep the RPM up to 1,000. I had it on the computer recently and everything seems to be in order, it didn't say if my sensor had gone which is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will start early in the morning and if I do not drive often it will start. For example, I leave home at 8 am and it will start. I then arrive at work at 8:30 am and when I leave work at around 10 am it will not start unless I press the gas pedal to keep the RPM up to 1,000. Another instance, I leave home at 8 am to go to work and it will start. Then I leave work at around 8 pm and it will start. My observation is that it will start according to the temperature whether its cool or warm and not hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give me a few ideas as to what it is causing this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17404" LastEditorUserId="6771" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T16:32:01.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T16:32:01.687" Title="Why does my car cut off the first time I try to start it?" Tags="|engine|nissan|skyline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T02:08:52.497" Score="6" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it OK to leave your vehicle running to charge the battery. It was pretty flat but jumped immediately which tells me the battery is not bad. And how long is it safe to keep it running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17405" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T06:21:03.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T02:44:38.350" Title="Charging Battery" Tags="|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29780" CreationDate="2016-05-18T02:38:24.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charging a dead battery &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/power-source/fact-alternators-are-not-designed-to-charge-dead-batteries/&quot;&gt;using the alternator&lt;/a&gt; is hard on the alternator, it is best to use a Battery charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alternator manufacturers know the same things about alternators that we do- they are designed to maintain batteries that are near a full state of charge, not recharge deeply-discharged batteries.  We post this on message boards all the time, but there are still folks who are convinced their alternators are designed to recharge deeply-discharged batteries.  We know this, because they call our tech support lines on a regular basis, because their battery keeps getting deeply-discharged (it is actually just staying deeply-discharged).  The alternator manufacturers also get calls from these folks, because they've burned up their alternators, trying to recharge deeply-discharged batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T02:38:24.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29777" CreationDate="2016-05-18T02:46:10.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most accurate way to diagnose plugged exhaust (not severe) or chain stretch is to compare to known good waveforms on same engine and year. Like any other diagnostic tool of this type it takes time and experience to do it without comparing to good waveforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good tool in conjunction with compression tool you describe is looking at oscilloscope secondary ignition waveforms, which is harder to connect on cars without plug wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T02:46:10.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29779" CreationDate="2016-05-18T02:52:22.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most common cause is the ECM Coolant temp sensor may be bad or out of range, replace it. If you have a scanner that can display live data this would help diagnose this as you can see the coolant temp the ecm is receiving from the sensor. Read the temp live data when it has starting issues. The temp when cold should be very close to outside air temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T02:52:22.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29777" CreationDate="2016-05-18T05:25:09.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use pressure transducers to test for cam sync problems. And other problems. Cam sync problems are seen on the waveform in a section called the exhaust ramp. The middle of the ramp moves back and forth as the valve timing changes. It is easy to see if you know where to look. Training in what to look for is required. It is a bit like interpreting ignition waveforms. One supplier of these tools provides a real time interpretive program that can help, but will not negate the need for proper training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cylinder pressure readings can be used to see: Compression, cranking and running , VVT activation, cam timing, valve opening failures, exhaust restrictions and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:25:09.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26375" CreationDate="2016-05-18T08:02:04.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many other answers give tips like pulling the fuse or cutting wires.&#xA;Please note that if your question is about the defective &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takata_Corporation#Defective_airbag_recalls_.282013.E2.80.93present.29&quot;&gt;Takata airbags&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;this won't help&lt;/strong&gt;!&#xA;The problem is, that this airbags propellants are not properly sealed. &quot;Moisture and humidity could be seeping inside inflators, destabilizing the volatile propellant inside.&quot; This means, in the worst case the airbag could explode without an electric ignition, because of the chemical reaction of the water and the propellant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep that in mind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should never ignore a recall on your car. Let a professional repair it. This could save your live, so it should be worth it for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T08:02:04.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T08:47:30.343" Score="1" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a classic 350 which has done 5000 Kms. Recently my clutch cable broke and I tried replacing it with a new one (which I had done once before), but now the clutch lever seems stuck and it's not getting pulled back completely in order to be hooked to the cable. Also when I put the bike in gear and I pull the lever the clutch is not disengaging.&#xA;Has anyone experienced this issue? Is it a serious one? Please advise, I'm worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S: I contacted the service. They told me they will be coming to check the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17410" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T15:03:14.340" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T14:38:42.117" Title="Royal Enfield Classic 350, Clutch is not disengaging" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|enfield-classic|royal-enfield|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:42:23.380" Score="1" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban. I changed the brake calipers because they were leaking. I think the brake system is working in the front but not in the back. Does anybody have a way to troubleshoot or solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17412" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:12:19.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T19:12:19.687" Title="Brake pedal bottoms out" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|troubleshooting|suburban|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-23T13:06:16.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29780" CreationDate="2016-05-18T12:17:28.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Moab's answer said, the best option is to use a battery charger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you don't have time to wait for the battery to recharge: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could leave your engine running stationary to charge your battery, but that's really inefficient and takes forever (see below). &#xA;You're better off taking a long drive. It will take a while to recharge the battery; I had to do this recently, after 70 km of highway driving my battery was at 70% charge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting your car takes a large amount of power, so if you only make short trips, your battery never gets fully charged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following section contains some average numbers, but there's a lot of variation between cars (+100%, -50%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alternators supply&lt;/a&gt; about 20 A when idle. Some of that is consumed by the car's electronics, so let's say you're supplying 10 A to the battery. An average battery (60 Ah) would then take 6 hours to charge while idling.&#xA;At highway speeds, alternators can supply around 150 A, so charging is done in a more reasonable time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T20:00:01.087" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:00:01.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29787" CreationDate="2016-05-18T12:32:26.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've changed the calipers and the pedal now goes all the way to the floor, chances are that you've introduced air into the system whilst you had the calipers off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix this, you need to &quot;bleed&quot; the braking system.  At each brake caliper / wheel cylinder there is a bleed nipple or bleed screw.  The basic procedure is to start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, fit a tight fitting capillary tube over the nipple and placing the other end in a container.  Loosen the screw and have someone pump the brake pedal until the fluid runs clear with no bubbles.  Repeat for each wheel and your pedal should firm up nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to keep topping up the brake fluid reservoir with new fluid as if the level drops too low, you'll have to start all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note, when you have the new bottle of brake fluid, DO NOT SHAKE IT.  Shaking it can introduce bubbles into the fluid which you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T12:32:26.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29777" CreationDate="2016-05-18T12:36:51.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Analysing in cylinder pressure waveform is extremely useful in developing combustion strategies in OEM R&amp;amp;D environments and also for diagnosing lots of issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken picture and its explanation from a Snap on product catalogue which I thought was well explained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q50vS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q50vS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A—Ready Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has stopped at TDC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Cylinder contents are compressed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Both valves are closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— The spark pulse usually happens 7 to 10 degrees before the peak pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B—Power Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Both valves remain closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has rapidly resumed movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston reaches top speed at the halfway point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston quickly decreases in speed and stop at the end of&#xA;the stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C—Vacuum 1 Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has stopped at BDC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Both valves remain closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Cylinder pressure has dissipated, and the rapid downstroke&#xA;of the piston has drawn a vacuum in the cylinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Exhaust valve is ready to open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D—Exhaust Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Exhaust valve has opened&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has rapidly resumed movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston expels cylinder contents through the open&#xA;exhaust valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston reaches top speed at the halfway point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston quickly decreases in speed and stop at the end of&#xA;the stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E—Zero Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has stopped at TDC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Exhaust valve has closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Intake valve is ready to open&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F—Intake Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Intake valve has opened&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has rapidly resumed movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Down-stroke of the piston draws air into the cylinder&#xA;through the open intake valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston reaches top speed at the halfway point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston quickly decreases in speed and stop at the end of&#xA;the stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;G—Vacuum 2 Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Intake valve has closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston down-stroke has drawn a slight, non-detectable&#xA;vacuum in the cylinder. (A closed throttle registers a&#xA;detectable vacuum.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has stopped at BDC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;H—Compression Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Both valves are closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston has rapidly resumed movement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Cylinder contents are compressed on the piston upstroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston reaches top speed at the halfway point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Piston quickly decreases in speed and stop at the end of&#xA;the stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now onto the diagnostics. Measuring in cylinder pressure will show up lots of problems if analysed correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the piston rings are damaged ( loss of compression will result in lower than normal peak pressure reading). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is restriction in Intake or exhaust and it will show up in C (exhaust) and D (intake) area in the waveform.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the head gasket is damaged, the peak pressure will be lower than normal reading. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve timing failure will show up in the readings. If there is an open valve, the compression pressure (A) will be lower and there will not be any vaccuum created in the intake stroke. Camshaft timing problem will have a different compression and vaccuum pressure reading. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cylinder pressure sensors are useful in finding knocking or detonation accurately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z27kI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z27kI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detonation is unwanted combustion which happens when hot air pockets with fuel are auto ignited and the yellow pressure curve with jagged ends at the top explains it clearly.But capturing this requires some high speed data acquisition hardware modules which are very expensive, which is why only well funded companies like OEM or F-1 teams have access to such sophisticated piece of equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T12:36:51.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29787" CreationDate="2016-05-18T13:55:43.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban.  I am not sure how similar things are. I have replaced lines/hoses/calipers/wheel cylinders on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the master ran dry, be sure to bench bleed the master and ABS. Remove the lines, install short lines, and have them go back to the reservoir on the master. Pump until no bubbles. Reinstall the lines that go from the master to the ABS.  Individually bleed the lines that come out of the ABS pump.  I didn't try bleeding the ABS, but I think it would had helped as I am almost positive my issues were at the ABS pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple methods I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal pump bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, &lt;strong&gt;close the bleeder&lt;/strong&gt;, release the pedal. This will help from air getting trapped. I never quite got it right with this method.  I was using the old hose in a bottle method and not closing the bleeders in between pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure bleeding - apply pressure to the master cylinder reservoir to push fluid through. Might had worked had the top been able to seal well, but it ended up just making a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum bleeding - apply vacuum at the bleeder. I've used a hand pump and a large vacuum pump.  Be sure to use a ton of Teflon tape so you don't suck air from around the threads.  If your line doesn't fit tight around the bleeder, you will get tons of bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse bleeding - Push fluid from the bleeder back through to the master.  I build a 'tool' to do this.  A sauce jar with one line that I could connect to the air compressor, and one submerged line that would push fluid through.  I used a regular to limit the pressure to about 3 PSI.  Again, use tons of Teflon tape as to not suck air around the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up modifying some bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads. Used a ton of Teflon tape. Vacuum bleed until I purged the line, reverse bleed, install original bleeder with a ton of Teflon tape, vacuum bleed until I don't see bubbles. Keep a good eye on the reservoir, you don't not want to run it dry or you will have to start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reverse bleeding helps get the bubbles out near the master/abs where there is a long drop. The bubbles want to go up, and normal methods are trying to push them down. I might had had good success with bench bleeding the ABS first also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note, at least on my truck, part of the process is to have the dealer run an automated bleed on the ABS system. This takes a very specific scan tool. I tried several of my cousin's professional Snap-On scan tools, and they were not able to do the ABS bleed.  Since your vehicle is newer, there may be more scan tools that can bleed your ABS pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T13:55:43.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12459" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:57:27.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister has a  2000 Cadillac DeVille And it's doing the same thing. A car has two lines that that the radiator cools the motor oil and the transmission fluid her car has oil in the radiator but not in the engine the line for oil has a Crack in it and that's what's causing the oil to get in the radiator fluid. So the line has to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17414" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T14:57:27.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29828" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:33:12.133" Score="6" ViewCount="9471" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a thread on the chemical composition of PTFE tape (Teflon tape) here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17075/master-cylinder-leak&quot;&gt;Master cylinder leak&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;but my question is, will PTFE tape stand up to the heat generated by front disc brakes? Or, will the heat generated melt it and just make a messy goop that no longer really seals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Applying a little Google-foo to the problem turned up this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[PTFE is a white solid at room temperature, with a density of about 2.2 g/cm³. According to DuPont its melting point is 327 °C (620.6 °F), but its properties degrade above 260 °C (500 °F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question can be refined to is that high enough to avoid problems with front disc brakes? Since the tire begins to soften to the point of not working well at roughly 160 to 170 deg C (320 to 338 deg F) it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this match what folks have seen or tested in the real world? Is there a downside to using PTFE tape on brake bleeders, like bits of the tape getting into the brake line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The quote comes from here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070824070354AAUaCbi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070824070354AAUaCbi&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T10:35:03.950" Title="Is PTFE (Teflon) tape safe to use on brake bleeder valves?" Tags="|brakes|heat|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29793" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:04:51.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two points;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Teflon tape is not a sealant. It lubricates the threads, so that you can insert the threaded part deeper, and as a side-effect it fills small gaps - but it was never designed as a sealant. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid dissolves/degrades PTFE. Try Permatex instead, if you want to go this route.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you think you need a seal, you should fix the problem rather than putting a band-aid on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to use PTFE still, then buy the good stuff (it's usually grey in color), rather than the 50c white stuff at the big box hardware store - a tip for plumbing as well as car repairs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T16:04:51.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:38:26.840" Score="20" ViewCount="5845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that headlight bulbs are very sensitive (reduced lifespan) if you touch them with bare hands during install.  Does the same apply to lower wattage bulbs like turn signals (and dome lights)?  Some of those are ridiculously hard to get even without the encumbrance of gloves (or tissue/paper towel as some recommend in place of gloves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastEditorUserId="644" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T18:40:28.723" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:20:29.903" Title="Are oils from the skin a problem with turn signal bulbs?" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29795" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:39:41.853" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason headlight bulbs are so sensitive is their high wattage, halogen design and therefore high heat.  Almost all other bulbs in the car are low-wattage incandescent which makes them easier to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your house you can screw in a normal light bulb by hand, but the thin halogen tubes that go in some lamps should also be handled with gloves.  Same principle - the halogen tubes, and your halogen headlights operate at a much higher temperature.  The oils on your fingers can cause uneven heating of the glass which can lead to premature failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T17:47:15.860" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T17:47:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:53:44.223" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '01 Montero that has been making a creaking/squeaky type of noise that comes from the rear of vehicle. I have lubed everything there is and have installed new shocks and air bags. Doesn't seem to be stemming from there. NOW, I did have a towing hitch installed and after inspection the &quot;dude&quot; didn't have enough of the proper bolts and two of those are longer and really tight against the underside body. Would these bolts possibly be the culprit of this annoying noise? I imagine I can take them out and see but... Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17416" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T17:52:17.117" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:52:17.117" Title="Tracking down non-engine sounds" Tags="|suspension|mitsubishi|noise|montero|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-12-21T22:10:39.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T18:07:33.787" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: the ever-present 2006 Solstice with aftermarket turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lift after hard acceleration, I can smell what I think is gas for a few seconds. It dissipates quickly, but is disturbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, I popped the hood and noticed one of the 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail down had worked it's way loose by about 1cm. I &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; I tightened that bugger when I put the engine in (about 2000 miles  ago). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I put gas in the car. While the pump was running,  I opened the passenger door to clean out some trash from the floorboard, and noticed the gas smell inside the cab. I had not noticed this before I started filling the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During an apocalyptic hail storm a few weeks ago, the driver's quarter panel was hit by a softball sized chunk of ice moving at terminal velocity, just to the left of the gas cap. (Close enough so that the gas cap door doesn't close.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've  seen a &quot;check gas cap&quot; warning a few times on the  DIC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when coming to a stop, frequently the engine will rev up to 2000-2500 rpm for a few seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed my BOV sticking open. Car off, BOV shut. Car on, BOV slightly open. Rev engine, get out of car, BOV open about an inch.) Thinking of putting a heavier spring in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? I'm not even sure where to start. Despite the damage near the gas cap, I don't see any cracks. The fuel rail and line look fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really in line with the QA stuff, but since it was requested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://davidlively.com/its-alive-again/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Gallery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdBXZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ouch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O6jbV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;autocross fun&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track video (after our Camaro's runs) &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/7fupmZstk8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/7fupmZstk8E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:53:39.807" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:53:39.807" Title="06 Solstice (Yay) Fuel smell after hard acceleration" Tags="|fuel-system|pontiac|smell|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29780" CreationDate="2016-05-18T18:12:25.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The others have stated great facts however, if you needed a jump and it fired right up, I wouldn't leave the cables hooked up for more than a few minutes. You need to check to insure that your cables are clean and tight and that the ground is good wherever it leads to the frame or engine. Also check to see that your alternator is putting out/charging. You may need to run some current draw checks with your multi meter to determine if you have unnecessary current draw...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17416" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T02:44:38.350" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T02:44:38.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T18:40:10.103" Score="0" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I turn my car on the air bag light blinks about 7 times and it stays on. Not sure how to handle this or determine the problem. I hear it can be 400 -1000 to get this fixed and handled I'd like to avoid that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a 2003 buick century '&#xA;where should I take it I don't have my own mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastEditorUserId="15828" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T21:35:08.653" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:35:08.653" Title="air bag light stuck on" Tags="|buick|supplemental-restraint-system|warning-light|century|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-19T08:21:00.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29801" CreationDate="2016-05-18T19:03:45.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To handle this I would advise you to take it to have the airbag system scanned to see if a trouble code exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For us to simply just tell you what the issue is we are going to need more information, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you experienced a wreck recently? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you done any adjustments to the steering wheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you spun the steering wheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you examined the fuse to check to see if it ok?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you removed the dash or do anything within the dash?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The airbag system is not something you want to go around guessing on what may be an issue or what is the matter.  If your light is on then you could face an inoperable air bag system and if you were to experience a wreck it could lead to someone loosing their life.  If you go around and start messing with an air bag system without knowledge you could accidentally deploy an air bag and that could result in hurting someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:08:48.833" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T19:08:48.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T19:15:01.747" Score="8" ViewCount="6925" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2015 Nissan Pathfinder has a switch for 2WD, AWD (auto), and 4WD Lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I save gas by keeping it in 2WD? Or it doesn't matter because it's still the same drivetrain and it simply doesn't apply power to the rear wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:56:29.107" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T12:13:21.980" Title="Does 2WD mode save me gas over AWD(auto) mode?" Tags="|nissan|drivetrain|4wd|awd|pathfinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17075" CreationDate="2016-05-18T20:12:06.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the correct Master Cylinder, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=1340000&amp;amp;p=rock&amp;amp;jsn=420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they sill make them for your model&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not really a 2 line (dual line MC), it is manufactured to fit different models, use the correct line out for your model so you do not have to bend stock the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is what you have tighten the plug more using a 6 point socket to stop the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJzaf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJzaf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can buy one at this site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T20:17:38.197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:17:38.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29756" CreationDate="2016-05-18T20:23:13.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably an engine temperature sensor. I had a similar issue with a '89 VW Fox.&#xA;Cold temp would start fine and the moment it got warm.....died. Wait 10 minutes good to go until it got warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good thing I had a service manual in the car and a calculator. I was near a Radio Shack and picked up 2 thermistors  put them together plugged them in and tie wrapped it the engine block. Drove to the mechanic who replaced the sensor. BTW I impressed the mechanic...never seen that done before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor had something to with the injection system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:23:13.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29799" CreationDate="2016-05-18T20:32:29.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the design of the turbo kit and installation, it could be due to the turbo blow off valve, if it is vented externally and not back into the intake upstream, you could smell gas briefly when it discharges turbo pressure on a hard deceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:32:29.130" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T20:55:43.573" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the O2 sensor due to fault codes 1166 and 1167, I still get 1167-Heater circuit error. I check resistance through O2 sensor heat, about 17 Ohms. Plug has 14 volts feeding heater. I read somewhere that computer has to re learn parameters to get CEL to go out, after running several hours/cycles. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17418" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T21:24:56.620" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:13:07.113" Title="2000 Honda Accord O2 Heater error" Tags="|honda|accord|cel|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28469" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:09:39.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In any motorcyle you CAN shift into gear without using the clutch, you have to match the engine speed with the output speed, many people use it for racing, and if done correctly does not cause excesive wear, but for normal use, it is not recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now when you say it wont shift into gear, do you mean the shifter just come to a halt before the shift engages? or does it go all the way through but you dont feel the thump of it shifting? Does your motorcycle have a gear indicator? does it indicate the upshift?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I guess is the problem, you either have the clutch badly adjusted, if it is partially clutched you may burn the pads and have trouble shifting and low speed output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is too loose, then the lever does not engage the clutch completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do an engine oil change, make sure it is the correct and the correct amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all fails, then an inspection of the clutch may be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17419" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:09:39.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:30:00.603" Score="8" ViewCount="2406" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2003 Camry, there are two plastic/fiber material panels that are mounted long-wise on the left and right side from the front under the bumper. They appear to be dirt/rock shields under the engine. Photos are below.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The panels came loose on the rear parts toward the center of the car and hung down to about 2 inches from the pavement. Only one of the original screws on the rear parts is still attached to the panel (the others seem to be gone).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since I can't easily skinny under the car, I would like to ask the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do these panels have any functional purpose? Or are they just protecting the bottom of the car from water, dirt and rocks?  Other than that, can the car operate safely without them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) For the missing (toward the back of the car) screws, is there a possibility that new screws could not be affixed due to some other missing parts? I can't see where they are mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Do these panels need to be loosened or removed for regular maintenance? I wonder if some service in the past could have caused this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This car is 13 years old and runs fine, but the body is in average shape so I am not concerned of the cosmetic condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usxgh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usxgh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hurcm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hurcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T23:56:17.143" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T21:33:10.790" Title="2003 Toyota Camry dirt guard panels under car front, are they really necessary?" Tags="|toyota|camry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:41:12.957" Score="5" ViewCount="5622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my rear brakes on a 09 mustang ,and only one brake started smoking and had a bad smell. The smoking stopped but the smell is still there. Now the smell isnt to bad . I just need to know if there is anything wrong or will it go away? The brakes i put on are ceramic brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17422" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:42:58.913" Title="Newly replaced brakes smoking" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29810" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:41:15.987" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shields have multiple purposes. What you stated about rocks and debris is very true. They do protect the engine bay from stuff getting kicked up into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing they are designed to do is to allow proper cooling and airflow. On some vehicles, without these in place, the engine can overheat due to the air not flowing through the right parts of the vehicle at speed, namely the radiator. I don't know if this is true here, but worth consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing they help with is aerodynamics and fuel economy. Once again allowing air to flow easily over the under parts of the car and not catch on the bits and pieces. Not having them in place will probably lower your fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:41:15.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29811" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:42:58.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these are ceramic brakes, it's completely normal. I'm not sure why it happens, but I've seen it happen on almost every set of ceramic brakes which I've installed. The smoking will usually only happen once when they get hot enough, then they are basically &quot;cured&quot; and will be golden for the life of them. In other words, this should be nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:42:58.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29807" CreationDate="2016-05-18T22:26:10.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @FredWilson pointed out, there is no relearn for a heater circuit code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 2.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for power at the ECM connector C pin 13 (white). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 3.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for power at the ECM connector C pin 1 (black/white). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the o2 heater wire may have power there may be a break in the wire that goes to the ECM. This wire tells the ECM that the heater relay is working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T23:13:07.113" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:13:07.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T23:11:19.327" Score="3" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just purchased a 2016 VW Golf Sportwagen. Since I drove it off the lot I've noticed a slight burning smell coming from the wheels (assumed this was brakes), and this evening I noticed a lot of soot/fine black dust on the rims.  The car has about 200 km on it now. Is this normal? The internet gives me conflicting opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17424" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T01:44:30.340" Title="New car - soot on rims and slight burny smell" Tags="|brakes|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29816" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:44:30.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smell is certainly the brake pads bedding in, it's pretty normal. As is the brake dust - you can upgrade to lower dust pads, but you'll find that it's a common thing amongst nose-heavy cars with disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T01:44:30.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30362" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:47:02.093" Score="7" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some trouble with my lifter pump and so I removed the back seat of my Mk1 Golf/Rabbit to access the pump and fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was removing the 'lid' to access the tank the aged seal/gasket thing around this lid disintegrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've noticed a kind of briny, almost salty smell emanating from within the car at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this due to fuel going bad from being exposed to air now that there is no gasket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T03:07:45.693" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:35:23.987" Title="Briny/salty smell from fuel tank?" Tags="|fuel-system|golf|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T03:11:16.680" Score="4" ViewCount="5270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to this and in need of some advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L, with 211,000 miles and have some electrical problems. I noticed that one of the two green wires on the back of the alternator had been cut and ran to the negative side of the battery. I fixed it and spliced the wire back together so its like it was from the factory. When you start the Jeep it runs really rough and stalls sometimes. The check engine light comes on as well as the check gauges light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the codes with my scan tool and it is throwing a &lt;strong&gt;P0123 TPS sensor high input code&lt;/strong&gt;, and  a &lt;strong&gt;P1698 No CCD Messages Received From The TCM code.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a new battery and replaced the terminals. I did a complete tune up (Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil, etc.) Changed the TPS sensor and still the same thing. I'm not sure where to turn next and don't want to start throwing money at different things and hoping for the best. Any ideas on what I should try next? Also I tested my charging system and the new battery shows 0 volts. I'm testing the alternator tomorrow, but don't think that would cause all my problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17430" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T05:40:38.770" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T23:45:37.783" Title="1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L electrical problems" Tags="|electrical|jeep|dtc|cherokee|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T04:26:15.707" Score="15" ViewCount="9056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying a car that is only 2 years old, has good miles, a price about a third lower than I would expect...but it had an accident listed on the CarFax. The previous owner hit a deer and the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt by the insurance. It was not completely salvaged. The car looks fine, and I've taken for a short test drive and seems okay.  I don't know what to look out for or pay attention to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of mechanical things should I investigate or ask about that could be serious (hidden) problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17433" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T20:12:48.270" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T04:50:58.857" Title="What to look out for when buying a car that hit a deer?" Tags="|mazda|body-work|used|accident|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2016-05-19T06:10:42.777" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be asking if the car was put on a chassis rig when it was repaired. If it's even had just one day on a rig, it was clearly enough of an impact that made the assessor/repairer think it might be a write-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't put on a chassis rig, the next thing to look at are signs of welding along the forward chassis, particularly radiator support and crash beams. Some modern cars have the radiator support made from plastic though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the alignment of the headlamps if you can, and check that there's no rust around the bolts that hold the fenders to the side of the engine bay. Also open and close the hood, to make sure it's not catching anywhere and operates smoothly. Same goes for the doors, check the gaps between the door jams are even, and that they dont make noises or rub when opening (this can be a sign of a warped shell, or poorly fitted panels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without an inspection report from the repairer/assessor, it'll be hard to know exactly to what extent it was repaired. Here in Australia, we have the RAC that can perform safety inspections on pre-purchased cars. You might have a similar service there? AAA or something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third party inspection before buying might cost you a hundred dollars, but might save you thousands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T06:10:42.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29840" CreationDate="2016-05-19T08:42:31.123" Score="5" ViewCount="9086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect I have an EFI common rail injector that fails to hold pressure and slowly leaks petrol into the manifold when the engine is shut down (and possibly while running). I am interested in why this happens and whether it is fixable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do injectors tend to leak because of debris buildup around the pin or mechanical wear can also make it happen? Is it something a good ultrasound clean should fix, or is replacement my only option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T08:45:01.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T08:45:01.003" Title="How to fix an injector leaking into the manifold?" Tags="|leak|fuel-injectors|intake-manifold|cylinder|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29826" CreationDate="2016-05-19T10:09:38.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is completely shut down, then the injector should be closed and there will not be any pressure in the system as the fuel pressure regulator and the pump would be off (although I am assuming there would be some residual pressure in the system). You can check the said injector by taking it out, putting few drops of fuel inside the injector and blowing air through it ( I just used my mouth, was very careful not to swallow the fuel and cleaned my mouth immediately after I was done). A good, working injector should not let fuel out of the nozzle. If you see fuel from the nozzle I guess your only option would be to replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experts, please correct me if I am wrong here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T10:09:38.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29793" CreationDate="2016-05-19T10:35:03.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;TBH I've never seen teflon tape on brake bleeder screws or any brake line fittings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems kind of stupid to try especially in a professional environment where you're open to litigation and possibly criminal charges if the tape fails and someone dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T10:35:03.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29803" CreationDate="2016-05-19T12:13:21.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that 2WD will save you a lot more fuel than AWD but it will save you more than zero. 2WD will definitely save you fuel over the 4WD Lock setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is that, no matter what setting you use, the engine still has to move the same mass of metal down the road. I.e., maximum efficiency is bounded. That said, in 2WD mode, you are avoiding some parasitic drag that would be caused by the  differential and other mechanicals associated with the other pair of wheels in AWD mode. It's hard to say exactly how much additional drag will be induced by the AWD implementation since it will be situation dependent but it is more than zero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these are much more fuel efficient than 4WD Lock mode. Most owners manuals that I've seen also recommends the lock mode for low speeds as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all that, it is easy to measure the instantaneous fuel usage in a modern car. A decent OBD reader (it plugs into the OBD port under your steering wheel) will allow you to display the fuel injected per second. If you really want to know specifics for your vehicle, try a stretch of road where you do repeated test runs in the different modes. Bonus points if you bring a data recording co-driver with you rather than having to grope for the reader while bombing down the back roads....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T12:13:21.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T12:14:15.617" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pre-cat O2 sensor fails, the ECM is no longer able to determine whether the mixture is rich or lean. A pre-cat O2 sensor cannot fail silently, the CEL (check-engine light) will switch on. I am wondering whether the ECM has any other way for continuing to even try to hit the stoichiometric point, or will the engine be just running on either a rich or a lean mixture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mixture remains always lean, the engine will overheat, then it's a matter of where one is: in cold weather the cooling system may be able to catch up; in hot weather it may not be able to keep up, and the cat may be damaged. Or the mixture will become rich and the driver may notice reduced mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="5109" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T15:42:24.467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:42:24.467" Title="Is it possible for the ECM to even attempt hitting the stoichiometric point if the pre-cat O2 sensor has failed?" Tags="|o2-sensor|temperature|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29826" CreationDate="2016-05-19T12:18:23.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by running though a tank of injector cleaner or seafoam and see if it cleans itself out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you can pull it out and try to clean it with carb cleaner and an air compressor.  I THINK you can open an injector with a 9V battery.  If not, you may need to rig up something.  12v 1A power brick with a fuse should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T12:18:23.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T12:27:02.450" Score="0" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a F-350 Dually that is capable of towing 16,000lbs.  I regularly pull 14-15K lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a programmer that gives me a digital display of both my EOT and my ECT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you say is the maximum safe range for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17442" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T13:39:34.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:35:16.287" Title="Safe Vehicle Operating Temperature while towing" Tags="|engine|oil|temperature|towing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T13:35:06.460" Score="2" ViewCount="2054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased honda activa before 2 days in andhra pradesh, 1 day after faced starting problem. and after applying choke it started. My worry is is the bike having any problem? was dealer delivered repaired bike to me? or is it general issue which will happen to any other very new bikes also? Honda executive at the time of delivery told me that please start bike after applying choke, so engine life will be good. Is that true? after facing starting issue, i'm doubting honda executive words. Can you also, explain me what are the check should be taken place while buying new bike in andhra pradesh? It is really appreciate if you provide answers to my queries. Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17444" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T14:09:41.943" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T05:22:10.410" Title="Honda Activa purchased 2 days back.. morning faced starting issue" Tags="|starting|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2016-05-19T13:38:46.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said &quot;the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt.&quot; The dealer should know for a fact that the car was rebuilt and issued a salvaged title, if not, walk away. On top of that, if the seller is slow, hesitant, or unwilling to comply with &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; of your requests for information about, or access to the vehicle, walk away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carstar.com/about-us-quality-auto-body-repair/news/press-releases/avoid_deer_damage_and_save_your_dough&quot;&gt;most common damage&lt;/a&gt; in deer related accidents is to the front bumper, fenders, and headlights, but in smaller cars the damage can easily extend to the hood, windshield, and roof. If the deer ended up on the windshield or roof, there can also be extensive interior damage. You should check under the carpets for stains or smells that the seller tried to mask or extinguish before your test drive. Be sure to check the trunk too... It's not unheard of for people to try to take the animal to the vet after the accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also ask the seller if they have any pictures of the damage. As they say, pictures are worth 1000 words, and pictures of the wreck can tell you where to look for damage or shoddy repair work. It may also show that the damage was limited to the hood, bumper, fenders, and headlights, but the body/paint work was enough to write the car off as a total loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the car on a longer test drive, being sure to include all road conditions and high/low speeds to make sure everything seems normal, and there are no excessive rattles or squeaks (2 year old cars should not have any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, have the car inspected by a certified mechanic (usually 60-100 USD). If you're in the states, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww1.aaa.com/services/automotive/shopLocator/shopLocatorSearch.xhtml&quot;&gt;Automotive Association of America&lt;/a&gt; (AAA) has list of mechanics that have met their standards of service. Quality mechanics will be able to tell what mechanical parts have been damaged or replaced, and auto body shops can tell you if the frame was damaged, and how well it was repaired. They will also tell you if there is unusual tire wear (indicative of misalignment, which could be caused by residual frame damage), and the remaining life of most wear components (brakes, fluids, windshield wipers, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T13:38:46.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T13:48:08.950" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Apache RTR 180 (Carbureted)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when I downshift, and when shifting down to 1st gear (to stand still), the RPM shows somewhere around 2000. The normal idle is around 1200 - 1400 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must release the clutch a little bit to slow the engine back to 1200 - 1400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens regardless of the temperature and even if I have only driven a few kilometers..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the cause for a high idle?  What can I check and how can I fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T14:23:12.840" LastActivityDate="2024-04-05T08:08:06.073" Title="Idle RPM is not setting properly sometimes" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|idle|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29832" CreationDate="2016-05-19T14:01:37.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cooling system is working properly, the coolant temperature shouldn't be any higher than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on whether the engine has an oil cooler, and what type it is, the oil temperature may rise. The safe limit for this is subjective, depending mainly on oil type, but as a ballpark figure a synth oil shouldn't have a problem going as high as 140c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T14:01:37.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29826" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:13:41.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace it, too may things can go wrong with an injector, weak spring, pitted pintle seat, shorted solenoid winding's, etc. Its not worth the time to try cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:13:41.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29830" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:14:24.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both pre and post catalyst &quot;Oxygen&quot; Sensors report exhaust fuel mixture to the PCM. So the PCM can and does use both to sense and adjust mixture. The rear sensor gives a better average mixture because the catalyst is a mixing chamber. In newer designs the rear sensor is used more for mixture sensing than the pre-cat sensor. In these designs a pre-cat Air Fuel Ratio sensor is used to sense individual cylinder mixture and misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:14:24.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29832" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:26:51.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the coolant does not boil (and your cooling system is in good shape) it is safe to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a 50-50 mix of Anti Freeze and water and a 15lb radiator cap it will boil at 265 degrees F. I doubt you will ever see this max temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mobile One synthetic Motor Oil &lt;a href=&quot;https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-mobil-advantage/mobil-1-performance/mobil-1-high-temperature-motor-oil-protection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;says it protects up to 500 F&lt;/a&gt;, so it would vary depending on brand and type of Oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has an automatic Transmission, trans fluid temp should no be allowed to go over 200 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtfjH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtfjH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrEUk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrEUk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T15:35:16.287" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:35:16.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29830" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:37:00.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it very much depends on the ECU you are using.  On early Volkswagen systems, they feature a pre and post cat lambda probe in the US as this is mandated but only set mixture based on the pre cat probe.  Makes sense I guess as the post cat probe won't tell you much if the cat is working correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK we don't have check engine lights so a probe can fail silently but I can tell you from personal experience that the failed state is for the engine to run rich.  Fuel consumption drops considerably and emissions typically rocket to ten times over the prescribes limit by UK vehicle inspection standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, a rich mixture is considered a safe mixture for engine components when compared to a lean mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:37:00.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:47:41.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other fine answers, you should inspect the crumple zones, which are most easily inspected by looking between the fender bolts under the hood. On most vehicles, you should see the factory ripples in the sheet metal. If that metal looks like it was ever deformed, painted, or replaced, then &lt;strong&gt;walk away from the car&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgSUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgSUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:47:41.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2016-05-19T16:01:11.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uneven bonnet gaps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a dead giveaway of a bad repair job - also, check if the gap is too large or small for the car - try and get a photo from a similar angle to one existing  to check. Also check door gaps, boot gaps, panel gaps for any misalignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check underneath&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and get under the car if you can - if you're mechanically minded you should be able to see things like welds or bodge-job &quot;good enough&quot; repair work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test Drive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, test drive the car for a long period of time, in various different conditions (I.E. Motorway, A-Road, Country Lanes, Duel Carriageways, single carriage ways, villages, towns. If you're US this equates to Freeways, Suburbia and inner city driving and everything in between.) . Keep an eye out for poor steering response, rattles, squeaks any anything else you'd not expect from a 2y/o car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other items of note&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and get photos of the damage. The damage may have been confined to bonnet and windscreen damage, but if the vehicle was nearly written off, that suggests something major&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to quickly check is the roof - does it look aligned correctly? Severe damage to a roof is a sure path to a write off, due to the size of the panel and structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get It Checked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall though, nothing quite approaches a seasoned eye. If you have a mechanically minded friend, bring him or her along for the ride and get their &lt;em&gt;honest&lt;/em&gt; opinion. Even better, see if you can get an independent mech to give their honest review of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13131" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T16:01:11.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T16:25:32.783" Score="5" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Corolla 2013. I know you can probably blow air or use a pen to clean the end of the A/C drain hose from underneath the car, but how can you clean the hose of the mold? Is there a safe chemical and entry point for the drain hose I can pour it through? Or do I have to replace the hose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17425" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T18:45:37.883" Title="How to clean the mold inside the A/C drain hose?" Tags="|toyota|ac|corolla|hose|drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-19T08:02:44.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29834" CreationDate="2016-05-19T17:21:34.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an engine has a manual choke it will need to be used for starting in most cases.  You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; get it to start with no choke sometimes, but needing to use it doesn't indicate a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors such as temperature, how long since it was last started, and even humidity can affect starting.  After a while you will get to know when your bike needs the choke and when it doesn't, but never hesitate to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T17:21:34.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:14:58.107" Score="0" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 BMW with a N52B30 motor. My CAS (Control module Car Access) was bricked and I brought another one for $700. The problem is that this new CAS has another VIN written to it. My question is how can I easily synchronize the CAS with the DME (Digital Motor Electronics) module? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17448" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:00:08.107" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:00:08.107" Title="Bmw E65 CAS/DME SYNC" Tags="|electronics|flash-programing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29871" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:25:28.317" Score="3" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EP1L7QG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;propane carburetor&lt;/a&gt; for a chevy small block engine to be used on a rock crawler so the engine wouldn't stall during inclines but I haven't seen any recommendation on what should be used for the fuel lines from the tank to the carb.  Besides rubber hoses that can break if a vehicle roles what can be used to deliver propane gas to a propane carburetor?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastEditorUserId="15071" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T18:31:16.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T07:31:23.327" Title="What fuel lines are recommended for a propane carburetor?" Tags="|carburetor|propane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:48:34.123" Score="9" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to convert over my 350 small block to a propane carb setup but I am unsure if there needs to be any modification to the motor itself.  When converting over to a propane solution do you need to make any changes to 350 crate motor to make sure it runs correctly?  If a motor originally had an octane 87 fuel delivered through the carb is a motor rebuild in order or can you simply just replace the carb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T17:10:32.237" Title="Do any internal modifications need to be completed if switching over to a non-standard fuel delivery carb?" Tags="|carburetor|small-engine|propane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28434" CreationDate="2016-05-19T19:00:00.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Click sound on first stop could be floating calipers, which are probably operating as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you back up they move back into position and click when driven. Again, this is normal behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17450" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T10:06:33.460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T10:06:33.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29846" CreationDate="2016-05-19T19:02:58.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called BG Frig Fresh. It's made to eliminate mold and mildew from an AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a drain under the car, spray in from there, or go backwards and tap a hole in the box under the dash. Then spray into the hole (where the heater core and evap hose meet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17450" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T16:46:24.943" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:46:24.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:58:52.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check at least for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint color match and alignment of panels.  Stand a short distance in front of the vehicle and look for uniformity between the left and right sides.  Check for overspray (repainting) under the hood/fenders.  If any overspray is visible, repairs were likely shoddy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On later model cars, look for a small VIN decal - under hood, on hood, fenders, and other major body panels.  If the stickers are missing or the numbers don't match, odds are the parts were replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the radiator and cooling system hardware - I once saw a deer buried so deep in the grill, it pushed the radiator and cooling fan completely against the block.  Also check all reservoirs - coolant overflow, washer fluid, brake master cylinder: and especially any other piece of plastic under the hood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check all lighting and signal lamps and be attentive to the trim/fit around them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask the dealer if the airbag was deployed and/or look for visible signs of replacement on the dashboard and steering wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look closely under the seats and along the seat rails for broken glass - usually unless the vehicle had an expert detail job, if glass was broken, there will be remnants/shards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that, decide your level of comfort with the vehicle (how much is enough to just walk away and keep looking) OR if signs are visible, use cosmetic problems to bargain for a lower price or some kind of warranty from the dealer.  More often than you might expect, these types of cars are liquidated by insurance companies at commercial auctions and dealers snatch them up, perform minimal repairs, and reap a generous profit.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17452" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T20:58:52.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29856" CreationDate="2016-05-19T21:06:05.517" Score="4" ViewCount="12997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that the voltage on the pre-cat O2 sensor must cross 0.5V (by a 0.3V margin). Is it also the case that the voltage on the post-cat sensor must cross 0.5V? The following image clarifies my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyFbe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyFbe.png&quot; alt=&quot;pre/post O2 sensors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these two graphs show, the post-cat barely crosses 0.6V; it doesn't cross 0.5V. Is this an indication of a faulty post-cat O2 sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T21:45:03.103" Title="Must the voltage of the post-cat O2 sensor cross 0.5V?" Tags="|o2-sensor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29855" CreationDate="2016-05-19T21:45:03.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your graphs look very normal.&#xA;No, the post cat sensor will remain a nearly flat line when the engine is a steady speed, if the catalyst is good. It can and likely will lean or rich as the PCM chooses its fuel control strategy. So steady voltages of .2 to .8 are normal. The catalyst acts as a homogenizer of fuel mixture so the rich to lean cycling seen pre-cat gets averaged out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T21:45:03.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29848" CreationDate="2016-05-19T21:55:20.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have a dealer or someone with access to equivalent software rewrite the VIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to do this otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T21:55:20.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T22:10:02.850" Score="1" ViewCount="3449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to recharge my AC system on a 2000 Acura TL, the pressure gauge showed the pressure being on the line of &quot;empty&quot; and &quot;filled&quot;, put some refrigerant in and the gauge didn't move at all put more in and it still didn't move. Eventually the entire can was emptied and the gauge was still in the same position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car ran for about a half hour, air was cold. All of a sudden the engine started smoking in what appeared to be a coolant leak near the AC compressor. Gauge now shows the pressure in the system at empty, and the AC compressor doesn't appear to kick on. But there's no more coolant leaking from the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me insight into what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17454" LastEditorUserId="17454" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:15:18.553" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T11:21:17.857" Title="Coolant leak after AC recharge" Tags="|ac|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29821" CreationDate="2016-05-19T22:20:52.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the TPS codes, it's probably a ground issue. Check for ground on the orange/dark blue wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ground on that wire disconnect and examine the connector for damage or a pin that's come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ground you're going to have to examine the wiring harness especially around the rear of the valve cover. There is a splice in the harness that sends TPS signal to both the transmission computer and the engine computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the alternator. The wire that was cut, the only one makes sense would be the computer controlled ground wire (dark green/orange) on the alternator plug. Disconnect the plug and with the engine running there should be a pulsed ground signal or constant ground with the plug unplugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't inspect the wiring. If the wiring is OK replace the engine computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:20:52.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29881" CreationDate="2016-05-19T22:45:42.107" Score="8" ViewCount="8804" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;94 Z28 LT1 Camaro. Intermittent stalling/starting problem. Been haunting me forever.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically my car will start fine when it's been sitting overnight. Then I'll drive to the gym which is 2 miles away. The car will sit for the time I'm in the gym maybe an hour and then won't restart. I'll let it sit some more, crank it and eventually I'll get it started. Then it will stall at idle. I'll let it sit, get it started again and this time it will drive a short distance before sputtering on acceleration and cutting out. Sometimes it won't sputter, and instead will just instantly cut out and I'll coast over to the side of the road. I'll let it sit for 10 minutes, start it up and move a half mile down the road before it cuts out again. This cycle repeats itself. If I can't get it restarted which sometimes happens I'll let it sit overnight come back in the morning and drive her home. The car is not throwing any error codes. The problem seems to be getting worse as time goes on. My ignition switch is getting bad as in it's becoming hard to turn and I have to play with it, but I don't think that would be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done to fix the issue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced the ICM. The Optispark is new and god forbid not failing me. The starter is new. Battery is new and charged. Spark plugs were changed with the new optispark. I had it in a shop for 6 weeks and they couldn't replicate the issue. (Of course.) They informed me the fuel pressure was good but the car has a small misfire and doesn't seem to be getting the horsepower it should. The engine has a slight shake to it, I assume that's the misfire they were talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I am going to do next:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace and test some cheap parts like the fuel pump relay and ignition coil, return the ICM I just bought, and hold off on taking it to another shop. This is personal. Besides anytime I mention the problem is intermittent to a mechanic over the phone I can hear an instant tremble in their voice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So good people of SE, any idea what is going on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought for sure it was the ICM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17456" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T17:15:51.477" Title="94 Z28 LT1 Camaro. Intermittent stalling/starting problem. Been haunting me forever" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|ignition|camaro|stall|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T01:35:04.160" Score="2" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer and everything seems to ride fine, except when I get around 60-70 mph on the highway the steering wheel starts to shake noticeably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only noticeable when I'm accelerating though. When I let off the gas and coast, it's fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a shop and after looking at it they said I just needed to balance the wheels, they didn't have the equipment to do it so I wasn't able to get it done today, but that brings up my question: if they're right and all I need is a balance, why does it only happen when I'm accelerating? Should I get a second opinion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17459" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:41:58.100" Title="2002 Lancer - Shaking when accelerating at higher speeds" Tags="|wheels|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29863" CreationDate="2016-05-20T02:03:07.093" Score="4" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say an automatic transmission vehicle is going downhill and stopped in traffic. And suddenly engine died. Is it possible for the wheels to turn (turning the transmission, torque converter) and vehicle to go forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:30:19.207" Title="Can wheels turn if the engine died when in gear (automatic transmission)" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29862" CreationDate="2016-05-20T03:04:29.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine stops while in gear (and brakes not pressed) it IS still possible for the vehicle to roll or continue rolling. Brakes will require additional foot pressure to maintain the same amount of braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If moving: The wheels will continue to rotate, however on some vehicles it will create an 'engine braking' effect and the resistance of the engine will slow your car down. This &quot;engine brake&quot; effect does not apply to modern automatic transmission vehicles. They will continue to roll without resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note: You'll also lose power steering and 'powered' braking. If key is turned to full &quot;off&quot;, the steering column will lock too. However, you cant turn key to full &quot;off&quot; while in-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="10790" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T15:30:19.207" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:30:19.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29878" CreationDate="2016-05-20T04:05:16.237" Score="5" ViewCount="15003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '94 BMW 318is manual transmission. I hear a grinding/whirring noise while driving that sounds to me like a bad bearing. I typically hear it when&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I engage the clutch. The sounds is more pronounced if I don't give it quite enough gas as I start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I accelerate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When downshifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is typically worse when the engine is in between 2000 and 3000 rpms. I would like to diagnose this problem, but more generally, what are some guidelines for diagnosing bearing problems in the clutch or drivetrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:31:40.837" Title="Throw out bearing, input shaft bearing, or drive shaft support bearing?" Tags="|clutch|drivetrain|bearing|throw-out-bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29861" CreationDate="2016-05-20T04:31:46.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the wheels balanced won't hurt. They are the typical culprit of a shaking steering wheel. Many tire places will even balance them for free. It would also be worthwhile to jack up the front of your car and check to see if you have any play in your control arms or in the tie rods, or if the boots are badly worn. I had a problem with a shaking steering wheel that went away after replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T06:23:41.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T06:23:41.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15489" CreationDate="2016-05-20T05:49:30.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that I would check for is a vacuum leak. Vacuum hoses rot over time making this is a common cause of engine speed problems at idle. Carefully examine all of the boots and hoses connected to your intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~~~ to locate an air leak in or around engine, listen for hissing sound when throttle is applied a little. Air sucking into a cut or broken orifice will cause the fuel/air mixture to get too lean...or not enough gas mixed with available air coming in. Using an accelerant like starting fluid (ether) to find the leaks is a handy and fast route to use. With engine idling, spray the ether around air tube junctions, hose ends, intake manifold joints, throttle body/carburetor flange gaskets and conne tions...if the engine suddenly revs up or increases idle speed/RPM, you have found the leak and can then begin to resolve/repair it. Use caution if using the ether method as unintentional ignition of the spray can burn you and damage parts under hood if a fire breaks out and burns for any amount of time. &#xA;Sometimes if ether is not available, you can use brake cleaner spray, water in a squirt bottle, or a wide variety of sprays that won't act as an accelerant to the engine... Instead these materials when sucked into the engine via the problem air leak, will actually cause a decrease in engine idle speed/RPM, or stall the engine altogether. The same value in finding problem is realized with this approach as well. If you find a place where you hear engine slow down or sputter or stall, you have likewise found a problem spot where air should not be getting into intake tract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastEditorUserId="38656" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T23:35:05.583" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T23:35:05.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29872" CreationDate="2016-05-20T05:52:33.383" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current I am working on OBDII. While in bluetooth discovery to connect obd, How I determine which device is obd and which device is normal bluetooth device.Because I want auto connect my app with obd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any common characteristic of obd device which help me to determine this is OBD device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16185" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T08:49:24.033" Title="Auto determine the bluetooth device is OBD or not?" Tags="|obd-ii|bluetooth|obd|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29860" CreationDate="2016-05-20T05:59:56.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the fuel pressure is good you may also want to check for a vacuum leak. Sometimes a vacuum leak can cause intermittent problems such as this because it may be partially sealed at times. I would carefully check all of the vacuum hoses and the intake boot for cracks or holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T05:59:56.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T07:01:40.150" Score="4" ViewCount="3029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this question for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the percent will differ based upon the throttle position and &#xA;will be either by stoichiometric ratio or rich mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stoichiometric ratio (AFR) for petrol  (gasoline) is 14.7 : 1 right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it is, when 1ml of petrol is used, then 14.7ml of air is used, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I open the throttle more and more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air part will be reduced more and more?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up to which point can the air be reduced. (I mean in the AFR ratio like 10: 1 , 8: 1) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So, in the carbureted engine, the butterfly valve will do this and in a fuel injected engine, ECU will determine this one right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any visuals or videos for these points, so I can understand it more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T13:54:33.153" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:54:33.153" Title="Percent of Air and Fuel used for Combustion" Tags="|fuel-consumption|carburetor|fuel-injection|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2016-05-20T07:27:29.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the throwout bearing if you're hearing it mainly when you're operating the clutch pedal. Some vehicles do have an inspection port on the gearboxes bell housing, however in a lot of cases, removal of the gearbox and/or bell housing is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T07:27:29.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29849" CreationDate="2016-05-20T07:31:23.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia, our Automotive LPG hose standard is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• AS/NZS 1869 class D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the following document, it appears that in the US propane hoses for automotive use needs to meet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• NFPA 58, Liquefied Petroleum Gas Code, 11.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Referenced ASTM Piping and Tubing Standards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.afdc.energy.gov/pdfs/48612.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.afdc.energy.gov/pdfs/48612.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: When searching for lines, make sure they meet these standards. You can get good steel braid rubber hoses all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T07:31:23.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29867" CreationDate="2016-05-20T08:34:35.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each bluetooth device has a unique 48 bit address and a device name (up to 248 bytes). The name is usually shown when doing a bluetooth scan with a mobile device. The only way you can tell the bluetooth device is an OBD scanner is by checking it's name or address, the fact that it's an OBD scanner does not give it any special properties from the point of view of a mobile device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it simply, you do a bluetooth scan and check the found device names. The name usually reveals that it's an OBD scanner, but it may differ depending on the manufacturer. If you want to use it with one specific OBD scanner that you have - just find and store it's name or address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T08:34:35.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29869" CreationDate="2016-05-20T10:26:26.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ratio is typically maintained.  About 14:7 for idle, cruise, part throttle, and a bit richer (12-13:1) for WOT .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The butterfly valve controls how much air goes into the engine.  The carburetor or fuel injection system's job is to match the amount of fuel going into the engine to the amount of air going in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T10:26:26.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29858" CreationDate="2016-05-20T11:21:17.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that you've filled the system correctly but that the additional stress places on the seals which were perhaps old, perished and slightly seeping have now, with the added pressure, failed completely and that the cloud you saw was the gas escaping at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T11:21:17.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29869" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:12:49.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me see if I can clear some of this up for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The stoichiometric ratio (AFR) for the petrol is 14.7 : 1 right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct, and it's important to understand the concept of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoichiometry#Definition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stoichiometric ratio&lt;/a&gt;.  It means that when the fuel and air are burned, they must be in this ratio if you want them to combine completely, with nothing left over (well, none of the original compounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So it is, If 1ML of petrol is used,then 14.7ML of air is used, right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this is not correct.  The ratio is concerned with the amount of compounds on a molecular level.  Since the liquid fuel is much, much more dense than air, you can't use a measurement of volume like milliliter (ml).  If you want to imagine the quantities side by side, you have to atomize the fuel into a gas, then combine the 1ml of fuel-gas with the 14.7ml of air.  Or you could weigh the fuel and air and combine them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, if I have given the throttle more and more, the air part will be reduced much and much?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia article has a good explanation of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;air-fuel&lt;/a&gt; ratio and how it changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A stoichiometric mixture unfortunately burns very hot and can damage engine components if the engine is placed under high load at this fuel–air mixture. Due to the high temperatures at this mixture, detonation of the fuel–air mix shortly after maximum cylinder pressure is possible under high load (referred to as knocking or pinging). Detonation can cause serious engine damage as the uncontrolled burning of the fuel air mix can create very high pressures in the cylinder. &lt;strong&gt;As a consequence, stoichiometric mixtures are only used under light load conditions.&lt;/strong&gt; For acceleration and high load conditions, a richer mixture (lower air–fuel ratio) is used to produce cooler combustion products and thereby prevent detonation and overheating of the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to your question is, yes the air part of the &lt;em&gt;ratio&lt;/em&gt; is reduced.  You could also say that the fuel is increased, but the result is a ratio with too much fuel.  The extra fuel is not burned, but has a needed cooling effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case I misunderstood your statement, when you step on the throttle the overall amount of air increases.  The throttle is basically an air control - more throttle, more air (and more fuel).  The &lt;em&gt;ratio&lt;/em&gt; is decreased as explained above, but to overall quantities of each go up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Up to which point this air can be reduced?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could use some help on these numbers, but I believe that an AFR range of 12:1 (rich) - 16:1 (lean) can be found in an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the mixture is way to rich or lean, getting the mixture to ignite will be a problem, and even if combustion happens, it won't be very powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, in the Carburetor, the butterfly valve will do this and in the FI, ECU will determine this one right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a carbureted engine, the carburetor is responsible for mixing the right amount of fuel with air.  The butterfly valve allows more air in, and more air flowing through the carb causes it to use more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection), the computer (ECU) uses an air flow meter (MAF) to determine the amount of air going in to the engine, and then calculates how long each fuel injector should be fired to give the correct ratio.  There is still a butterfly valve that controls the amount of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:12:49.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29869" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:17:37.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Upto to which point this air can be reduced. (I mean in the AFR ratio like 10: 1 , 8: 1) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realize, if you were to open the butterflies and &lt;em&gt;nothing else were to occur&lt;/em&gt; (no additional fuel), you'd be going lean (higher air to fuel ratio ... 16:1, 18:1, and much higher). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer or carburetor in most vehicles will control the amount of fuel going in to keep it at the specific ratio which is actually a bit below stoich, in the 13:1 range. It will hardly ever be perfectly stoich. The reason it is run a little bit rich is two reasons. First, it controls detonation. Detonation or pre-ignition happens much easier when the air/fuel (A/F) ratio is lean. Detonation is the bane of the gas engine and causes damage. Secondly, it also helps reduce emissions, most notably Nitrogen Oxides (NOx), which is the nastiest of the three most civilized nations try to control. It is one of the contributors to acid rain, is the brown hazy crap you see in polluted cities, and burns the lung tissues in us humans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the A/F ratio close to stoich, a carburetor relies on air flow to draw fuel in. The greater the air flow, the more fuel is drawn in. The ports for this are just above the butterflies. This means, when you open the butterflies, it increases air flows through the venturis, which then increases fuel flow. If the butterflies are opened too fast, the ports in the venturis will find it hard to match the air flow at first. Most carburetors have an acceleration circuit which pumps extra fuel into the venturis to compensate, keeping the A/F ratio closer to the desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fuel injection (FI), the butterflies themselves &lt;em&gt;just control the air flow&lt;/em&gt;. Depending on the FI design, the incoming air can be measured in several different ways. It can be measured with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manifold Absolutely Pressure (MAP) sensor&lt;/strong&gt;: Provides pressure difference between inside the intake manifold as compared to outside the intake manifold. This difference can be related to intake vacuum reading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor&lt;/strong&gt;: Provides the computer with how much air is coming into the intake manifold directly. This is used with the MAP sensor to get a more accurate reading and thus a better response.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)&lt;/strong&gt;: Directly connected to the butterflies (throttle plates), tells the computer the driver's intention. Open further, go faster: open less, slow down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;O2 Sensor (or Lambda sensor)&lt;/strong&gt;: Provides the computer with how well the air fuel mixture is burning, thus allows micro-adjustments of the fuel to get closer to the desired air fuel mixture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Intake Sensor&lt;/strong&gt;: Measures air temperature in the intake tract before the air gets inside the engine. Cooler air will mean denser air, which means more oxygen, which will affect the A/F ratio if not accounted for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other sensors which play a roll. Basically what happens inside the engine computer (and this is in a very basic sense), is the computer gets input from each of these devices. Inside the computer there are &quot;lookup tables&quot; which tells it, under &quot;these circumstances&quot; allow the fuel injectors to stay open xx amount of time. This is usually measured in milliseconds. The input is used to cross-reference the amount of fuel which it should be allowing to be input into the engine by each fuel injector. As the computer gets new information and the conditions are noted as changing, the computer adjusts accordingly. The computer also &quot;learns&quot; over time, knowing via the O2 sensor what is working and what isn't. It will put small modifiers onto the reference tables to fine tune it. This allows for variation over time and for subtle differences each vehicle (even ones which are otherwise identical) will have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:17:37.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29879" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:22:12.523" Score="6" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Dodge Charger SRT8 6.1l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is, that I need a fuel pump replacement for that vehicle and I can't find the appropriate part.&#xA;Fuel tank capacity is 72 liters (22 gallons)... On the market, there are only 18 gal and 19 gal versions and most of the time it's for 5.7l engine and not indicated for 6.1l which I found strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone explain me how to properly find a correct fuel pump, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a dealer here in Europe cost me a little more than $600 (US) compared to prices on the web (from $100 to $300).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;==== UPDATED ====&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a fuel pump before, which also died (had dirt inside the tank). That fuel pump was actually for 5.7L (18 gallons), and whenever my fuel drops lower than 1/4 tank, the fuel level on the dashboard stops moving. So, I ran out of gas couple times before I figured it out... (it's just information for 18 and 19 gal versions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17466" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T16:58:26.007" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:58:26.007" Title="Can't find out a correct fuel pump for my vehicle" Tags="|dodge|fuel-pump|charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:31:40.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throw out bearings (TOB) &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; make noise when &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; when you press the clutch pedal. The reason for this is, it is the only time it is engaged and actually &lt;em&gt;can make a noise&lt;/em&gt;. If you are hearing this particular noise at 2000-3000 rpm when you aren't actuating the clutch, this can be ruled out almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Input shaft bearing will make noise most of the time at any engine speed, though can be more pronounced at a given engine speed. It can also make more noise under a given load. A noise from the input shaft bearing will raise and lower with engine speed, and not with vehicle speed. You'll most likely hear it no matter what gear you are in. From your description, this seems most likely your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive shaft support bearing will make noises which will raise and fall with vehicle speed. It will make the noise regardless of engine speed. You can be in 3rd gear going 40 mph or 4th gear at 40 mph and should still be able to hear the same noise (it's just an example ... throwing numbers out there). Considering what you've said, I doubt this is your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be one of the carrier bearings within the transmission. The thing is, though, whether a carrier bearing or an input shaft bearing, you'll need to have the transmission pulled to fix it. A good transmission shop should be able to give you the proper diagnosis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:31:40.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29877" CreationDate="2016-05-20T13:38:18.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears there are two pumps which it could actually be. One each for the left and right sides of the vehicle. The part numbers I can find are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spectra Premium - SP7050M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bosch - 67774&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mopar - RL161808AE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spectra Premium - SP7051M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are for the SRT8 6.1L Hemi. These models are for exact fit with housing. You can get a cheaper generic pump which you'd have to fit into the current housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:38:18.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29882" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:08:04.813" Score="7" ViewCount="5173" Body="&lt;p&gt;slight rust on the side of the links of my bike chain. I'm runing with dry lube which is teflon based I think. The rust isn't deep. Can I go at it with a brass bristle brush, or will that damage it and the orings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T14:28:04.123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:42:19.943" Title="how to clean rust on chain (motorbike)?" Tags="|motorcycle|rust|chain|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29860" CreationDate="2016-05-20T14:27:21.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two places this could be: ICM or Optispark. The intermittent nature of it leads me to believe it is ignition related. On your year of LT1, ignition issues can pretty much be boiled down to these two things (as you are describing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you've replaced the ICM, does not mean it isn't at fault. Usually the way the engine dies with an ICM fault is it ... well ... just dies. The ICM, since it sits directly on the head (in stock fashion) absorbs more heat than the little cooling fins can dissipate. The easiest way to cure this is to do the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ICM Mod&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This entails getting the ICM off of the head. There are two ways I've done this in the past, that being using three 3/8&quot; flat washers under the bolt/stud. This raises it off of the head and allows it to cool better. I've also found the small spacers which are used on the exhaust are perfect for this. The spacers are found on stock exhaust manifold bolts. Usually, if you put headers on there, these will not be used. Since I personally keep everything (car related - you just never know when you'll be able to use stuff), I had a few I found in the parts bin. If you haven't done this mod, I would &lt;em&gt;highly recommend it&lt;/em&gt; even if it isn't the issue. It's very easy to do and will save you money/headaches down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here is a pic of how the ICM mod is commonly approached. Normally, the ICM goes behind the studs against the head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJvi5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wJvi5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second area to look at is the Optispark. I don't know how long you've had your Z28, but you'll need to know &lt;em&gt;most Optisparks produced today are pieces of junk&lt;/em&gt;. Just because you put a new one (or seemingly new one) does not mean it's not at fault. Considering you are seeing your intermittent issues recur and are not exactly the same, this is where I'd look for your issue. Most of the rebuilt Optisparks have cheap Chinese sensors in them. You can find them on eBay for cheaper. In this case, you get what you pay for ... crap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought a replacement Opti from one of the chain stores (Advance Auto, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Checker, etc), at least you'll have a warranty. You and I both know these things are a PITB to replace, seeing as how they are under the water pump. At least with the warranty, you'll sooner or later get a good one which will last 100k miles or longer. I've actually had pretty good luck with the purchasing them at the chains. I've also purchased them from eBay (bad choice) and used. Used ones are a complete crapshoot. The sensor is the true part which is the most important. Getting one with a Mitsubishi optical sensor is key. Most anything else is crap (this is on the regular Opti, see below for other options). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate future issues with the Opti, there are several things you can do. The 93-95 came with the non-vented type with the spline gear. Converting this over to the vented type helps in the long run remove ozone which builds up inside the unit. Venting the gas will prolong the Opti's life. There is an MSD kit which allows you to do this by changing out to their cap/rotor. This is a lot more cost effective than purchasing the timing chain cover and different Opti and other things needed to convert it over. It used to be the MSD Optispark was a piece of junk (I don't know if that is still true). It would be just as bad as any of the cheap aftermarket ones purchased. There are also other ways of fixing it with replacing the stock unit with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynaspark.net/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dynaspark&lt;/a&gt;, though they can be cost prohibitive. There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LTCC&lt;/a&gt; setup which eliminates the sparking going on inside of the distributor by making it a coil per cylinder (like an LS engine setup). It does, however use the optical setup inside the Opti, so if the one you have is bad, you still need a good one in order for this to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T21:38:04.000" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T21:38:04.000" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29880" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:03:38.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use something like WD40, and a soft cloth to rub the rust away. Then apply the right amount of chain lubricant and you will be good to go. You can use a brass bristle brush, provided you do it gently like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qff_9ie3pnE&quot;&gt;this guy in the video&lt;/a&gt;. A toothbrush will also work. This is light surface rust and IMHO nothing to worry about too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T15:21:08.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:21:08.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9474" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:28:38.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to check the fuse first...it's fuse #14 for low beams. If it &quot;pops&quot; out then you will have no low beams. Same for high beams. The two have two different fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:28:38.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29880" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:38:14.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a special tool to clean the chain, it is normally circular/spiral shaped and you twist the brush as it runs along the length of the chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAea7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAea7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ36383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ36383&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can purchase a special chain lube tool, that basically hugs the chain and has a hole to insert a straw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17468" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T21:28:44.093" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T21:28:44.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:38:30.443" Score="1" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the Torque Pro app and in the section where there is a list of custom PIDs that can be used, one is a Transmission Temperature PID. But it is exactly same as Engine Coolant Temperature PID (Mode 01 PID 05). How can both be the same?&#xA;Is there any source where these custom PIDs have been listed? Torque Pro app lists some like Ford, Toyota Prius, but not all.&#xA;I have a Hyundai i10 Era 2010, and would like to start using custom PIDs from Hyundai.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:38:30.443" Title="OBD-II Enhanced PIDs" Tags="|ford|transmission|obd-ii|hyundai|torque|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29861" CreationDate="2016-05-20T15:41:58.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire balance is a good place to start.  Also, the U-joints may need to be lubricated or replaced.  Slide underneath the car and check for loose driveline components.  Usually a vibration upon acceleration indicates a driveline issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a FWD lancer, you may need to check or replace the differential fluid, and visually inspect the front driveshafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17468" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T15:41:58.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T16:23:08.050" Score="3" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I repaired one of the holes for a head bolt on my 97 Honda Accord using a time sert insert.  When I put the head back on I was only able to tighten it to 63 ft-lbs.  I could tell it wasn't going to tighten an more at that point and I stopped.  Anyone know what is the chance it will hold like that, without torquing it down all the way to 72? Since it's aluminium, I've read that they can't be repaired reliably.  Should I just try to find another engine block?  There might have been some cutting oil left in the new hole since I didn't clean it out all the way.  Which may be why I'm not able to torque it down all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13558" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:23:08.050" Title="Honda Accord Head Bolt" Tags="|repair|thread|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29810" CreationDate="2016-05-20T16:38:03.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Do these panels have any functional purpose? Or are they just protecting the bottom of the car from water, dirt and rocks? &quot; That is a functional purpose :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come loose all the time on older cars due to the plastic push fasteners failing and falling out, that and techs that damage them when removing the cover for service and do not replace them with new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push fasteners come in different diameters and styles, diameter is important, most imports are 10mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should keep it attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lqhf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lqhf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:38:03.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29894" CreationDate="2016-05-20T17:51:31.740" Score="2" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does the OBD error code P0100 mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an engine misfire with the check engine light on in my Nissan N16 Supper Saloon -1300cc - 2000 model year. The engine started to produce less power.&#xA;An OBD scan gave the error code &lt;strong&gt;P0100&lt;/strong&gt; (referred to MAF sensor error).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I replaced the sensor, but am still getting the check engine light with engine misfire. What could be the problem?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I check?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T21:58:01.583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T18:17:57.827" Title="What does the OBD error code P0100 mean?" Tags="|electrical|nissan|misfire|maf|obd|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T18:11:34.470" Score="3" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Fusion. I am looking at the sensor on top of the exhaust with a collar, and I cannot see how to undo it.  I put the image in to show what I'm dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a way to fit a socket onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I remove this lambda sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8AKUy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8AKUy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17469" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T07:35:07.030" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T07:35:07.030" Title="My lambda sensor has a collar around it, I can not see how to unscrew it. (2009 Ford Fusion)" Tags="|ford|o2-sensor|fusion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29890" CreationDate="2016-05-20T19:35:53.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should look something like the following picture. The flats for the wrench are at the bottom so you may not be able to see them depending on the location. They also might be covered by a heat shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmPHV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmPHV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use something like the tools pictured below to get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/toZYf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/toZYf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMKC1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMKC1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T19:35:53.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:08:59.050" Score="0" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me when my battery was manufactured.  It is an Exide 124R-60&#xA;Serial #2029261&#xA;The date is not punched out.  Help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17473" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T02:49:10.877" Title="Excide Battery manufacture date" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-21T10:59:57.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29889" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:38:54.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vacuum leaks can cause a bad MAF reading and result in a fault code. I would check The intake boot connected to the MAF sensor for any cracks or holes. I had this code show up on my '94 BMW. I spent the money on a new MAF sensor only to find out that I could have fixed the problem with a $20 intake boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T18:17:57.827" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T18:17:57.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:51:15.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not correct to assume that the problem is the blower motor before first checking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blower motor relay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blower motor resistor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of these components are in working order then the next thing I would try would be the blower motor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T00:51:15.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29893" CreationDate="2016-05-21T02:33:37.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what country you buy it in what type of date code they use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date code is engraved or hot stamped into the battery case somewhere&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart is for Automotive, Marine and Motorcycle batteries, but may apply to other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they made a mistake on the chart, &quot;explanation&quot; section for Philippines and Korea are swapped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdurb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdurb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exidebatteries.com.au/battery-faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T02:49:10.877" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T02:49:10.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T02:45:57.300" Score="2" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Toyota Camry dies out while driving. 76000 mi well kept. New battery sensors and coils. No pattern. Stops   I turn it off and in a few minutes it goes again. All dash warning lights come on. Toyota cannot figure it out. It's been on two computers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17474" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T04:06:18.803" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T04:06:18.803" Title="Car dies while driving" Tags="|toyota|repair|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21882" CreationDate="2016-05-21T02:53:02.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white substance which you see around battery terminals is either lead sulphate or anhydrous copper sulphate . Anhydrous copper sulphate changes to blue colour when water is added to it. The bluish substance which you see around corroded copper terminals or copper clamps is hydrated copper sulphate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning Corroded Battery Terminals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean lead sulphate or copper sulphate from terminals, first disconnect terminals from battery. Make sure, you are wearing gloves as these chemicals can affect the skin. Now, wash terminals with clean water. If rust washes away, then no more hassles. Otherwise, wash them with the solution of any of these bases caustic soda, washing soda or baking soda made by dissolving base into water. Simply dipping battery terminals or clamps for few minutes into solutions of these bases also works. After cleaning with base solution, wash terminals again with clean water to clear away the remnants of base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advised not to pour the solution of any of these bases over battery posts to clean them as it might gain access to battery interiors through vents, joints or leaks. If entered, it can badly affect the performance of battery. Instead, use a cloth dipped in base solution to clean them or use a brush to rub the rust off. Take extra precautions while cleaning hydrated copper sulphate which is bluish in colour because it is poisonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepared solutions are also available in markets to clean the corrosion. You can also use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention from Corrosion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Corrosion can occur in dry environment but it is boosted by moisture and salts present in water. Therefore, keep the batteries away from moisture and damp places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Do not wash interior of car engine bay with water. Water increases speed of rusting metallic parts of engine bay which are not covered with paint and also joints of power cables and battery terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Always keep the battery top dry and free from dust and other pollutants. After pouring water into flooded lead acid battery, never forget to dry the surface of battery. Close the caps of individual cells tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4- Apply Petroleum jelly or grease to battery terminals to protect them from corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5- Use clamps and battery terminals made from good quality copper which are also alloy plated. Layer of alloy prevents terminals from corroding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T02:53:02.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29897" CreationDate="2016-05-21T03:10:17.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crank sensor is failing- test and replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel filter clogged- replace it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel pump- test and replace &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many possibilities though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent die outs can very difficult to diagnose by anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T03:10:17.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29686" CreationDate="2016-05-21T03:12:38.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A code P0100 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad The MAF sensor may be faulty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the MAF sensor element is dirty use disc brake cleaner. Do not use Throttle body cleaner because it will leave a residue that will muck up the sensor. A residue on the hot wire element will render it useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the connection as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T03:12:38.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29890" CreationDate="2016-05-21T10:32:19.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/29891/675&quot;&gt;Bob's sock puppet's&lt;/a&gt; O2 socket and crow's foot suggestion, I'd like to add that O2 sensors are usually size 22 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, a 22 mm spanner/wrench with enough leverage will also do the job. It helps to soak the threads in rust solvent prior to removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T10:32:19.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T11:23:59.720" Score="0" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cars rely on pressure caused by heated atoms then why do the fuel mixture need to be high energy? If I heated any gas up wouldn't they no also cause extreme pressure inside the combustion chamber? Would there need to be more gas in order to pull this off? What's the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T12:50:42.170" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:50:42.170" Title="Why do fuel need to be high energy to work inside a vehicle?" Tags="|gasoline|alternative-fuels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T11:48:59.950" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/xgauges-for-cansf-vehicles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/xgauges-for-cansf-vehicles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website lists data reported by certain sensors.&#xA;Lets take an example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gauge = Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TXD = 07E00106&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RXF = 044105060000 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RXD = 2808 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTH = 00C80100FF9C &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Name = SF1 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes = +/- 0 to 99&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing with the Wiki page for OBD PIDs (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&lt;/a&gt;), Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 is Mode 01 PID 06.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I relate the data of Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 from XGauge website with the Wiki page. I mean how will be the formula, PID, max and min values, units be derived from the XGauge data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T15:14:17.923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T15:14:17.923" Title="Translating raw CAN responses into meaningful min/max/value" Tags="|fuel-system|obd-ii|sensor|o2-sensor|gauges|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:03:41.767" Score="2" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange behaviour of my car. Engine starts well at any weather condition but after driving and switched off engine cannot start again for 20 - 40 minutes. After this time it starts like nothing happened. This is happening a few times in the 3 month. The battery is full, the lights on panel is on but no any sound of starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please your advise would be very appreciate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Today after some time of driving engine won't start again. Later on I have scanned for OBD faulty codes and appeared P14A3 - Powertrain . After my research  found very close and similar issue &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmwenthusiasts.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=109&amp;amp;t=13228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Might helps to someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17480" LastEditorUserId="17824" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T12:27:20.550" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T12:26:01.720" Title="BMW 520d e60 2008 diesel engine won't start after switching off" Tags="|engine|starting|bmw|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:38:59.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes its normal. Saw this bundle of water under the car. Frightened me initially. Its water due to condensation. Its nothing to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17483" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T12:59:04.010" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:59:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29905" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:50:18.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's as simple as economy of space. The higher the density of fuel, the farther you can go on a tank of gas. Sure you could use lower energy fuel, but then you'd be filling up more often, or your vehicle would require a larger fuel tank to go the same distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, ethanol (E100) fuel only has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;73-85% of the energy density of gasoline&lt;/a&gt;. As a liquid, it still takes up the same amount of space as gasoline (petrol), but won't get you as far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second thing why other fuels aren't used, like hydrogen, are four fold: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The infrastructure isn't setup to use it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The auto industry isn't equipped to deal with it (large cost to change)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder to contain hydrogen (need special tanks to hold it which are bulky)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrogen is more expensive to produce in quantity than is gasoline (you have to put more energy into producing hydrogen than you get out of it when used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use hydrogen as a good example, because 1kg (or 2.2lbs) of hydrogen has the same energy density as a gallon of gasoline. The thing is, though, a gallon of gasoline weighs about 6.9lbs per gallon. If the industry were able to make the switch and do it economically, it would be a great alternative to gasoline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:50:18.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T14:02:19.520" Score="1" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car starts rough but runs fine ,no loss of power. check engine light on and depollution system faulty on dash. Local garage scanned car and came up with camshaft sensor fault but they think timing chain . This was changed in 2011 so has it gone again ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17484" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T11:38:40.117" Title="Peugeot 207 gti depollution fault" Tags="|engine|peugeot|timing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T14:30:40.887" Score="4" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to determine if it is possible to chain together smaller household batteries to produce the equivalent output of a 12V car battery (temporarily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a practical reason for this bizarre query ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has an electric latch for the bonnet/hood. The issue is that the battery is flat and does not have enough power to pop the hood to get the battery out and recharge it (chicken and egg, I know!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer has provided a workaround, in that a spare car battery can be used with a set of jump leads to attach to a special fuse that will pop the hood. The problem is that I don't have a second battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically, the only thing that is needed is to send some power through this fuse for a short enough time to active the hood latch (negative on the door handle, positive on the fuse). My question is, can I achieve this with a combination of all the batteries I am surrounded by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, I should be able to take 8 AA (1.5V) batteries and chain them together to get the 12V the car hood latch circuitry is expecting. But I'm also aware life is never that simple and I that know little more about electricity than a child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is enough for someone to inspire a DIY solution to this simple problem. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Peter" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T14:49:35.013" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T03:38:37.410" Title="Create Car Battery Load from Smaller Batteries" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29912" CreationDate="2016-05-21T14:49:17.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely! In fact, you don't even need the amount of power which would come out of a standard battery to accomplish your needs. You just need enough power to get the hood to pop! Really, all you need is a 12vdc power source. A truly easy source of this would be to get one out of a battery backup system from a garage door opener. Another way to do it is to connect two 6vdc lantern batteries in series. You will need some amount of amperage to make this happen. I'm not sure if eight (8) 1.5vdc batteries would be enough, but it might be. Secondarily, you'll need to ensure you are hooking it up correctly, but running it through the fuse panel is not a bad idea. Another way to hook it up would be through the cigarette lighter port (or in-dash 12vdc power plug). It will get you directly into/onto the power without too much of a problem, plus the wiring would be enough to handle the amount of amperage needed to run the hood latch. Ensure you don't have any other power on when you do this (leave the key off and door shut). Having such a low amperage source of battery on the car may cause electrical issues with the computer or other sensitive electronic devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T14:49:17.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2016-05-21T15:31:48.613" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have 4 old ski's, ranging from a 1980 Kawasaki 550 stand up to a 93 Sea Doo xp, that I purchased from a woman that never rode it. It's like brand new,my pride and joy,looking thru her receipts. I found she had some motor work done to increase compression. This ski is faster than 90% of them out there.and the hull design makes it a blast to ride.  Its like riding an old husky 450 two stroke.  Anyhow, I've done dirt bikes, snow mobiles, and now ski's. I don't care what any one says 2-strokes are temperamental bitch's. The oil you use, the mix, the richness or leaning of carbs are more important than the rest. 2-strokes run with low tolerances cold, let alone hot. The micro amount of time that your motor let's you know its not getting enough oil, your brain still thinks nothing's wrong yet.THAT FAST !!! YOUR ENGINES JUNK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on the web...any question you have will be be answered. Just remember, when your motor runs like it's not getting enough fuel it also isn't getting enough oil. Also too much oil will make your motor run lean, this is cause there is oil taking place of gas volume...But I will always rather have 2 much than 2 little. Jet ski's are a pain to work on, so I spend the cash to protect my assets. Get yourself a compression tester to start off with. This will let you know what you got under the hood,so to speak. You want your compression to match on cylinders, or you already have issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google dude, Google. Good luck. TSKI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17487" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T17:50:06.397" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T17:50:06.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29919" CreationDate="2016-05-21T16:55:39.257" Score="4" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota vitz 2007 burns engine oil. I replaced the PCV valve but there is no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually have to add about 1 or 2 liters of oil for 5000km (between two oil refills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends told me to use a thicker oil next time I refill and it will reduce the oil burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would it be OK to use a thicker oil next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T02:27:21.723" Title="Engine burning oil" Tags="|toyota|vitz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18188" CreationDate="2016-05-21T17:38:09.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what country you buy it in what type of date code they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date code is engraved or hot stamped into the battery case somewhere&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart is for Automotive, Marine and Motorcycle batteries, but may apply to other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they made a mistake on the chart, &quot;explanation&quot; section for Philippines and Korea are swapped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35qin.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35qin.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exidebatteries.com.au/battery-faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.exidebatteries.com.au/battery-faq/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Asia/Asia Pacific could it be just the last 2 alphanumeric characters in code? K5 meaning 2010 May?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T17:40:18.517" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T17:40:18.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T19:07:05.630" Score="5" ViewCount="10355" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AC clutch on my Jeep Liberty 2006 won't engage.  Here is what I have checked so far.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuse 14 in the passenger cabin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;21 in the engine compartment are ok&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;AC relay ok&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I jump the AC relay I am able to engage the compressor and get cold air, pressure at rest is about 105 pounds at 60 degree F.  When the compressor is running it drops to 35 psi. I can't check the high pressure side because I don't have a gauge for it.  If I jump the low pressure switch nothing happens.  Not sure where to go from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone have an idea of what could be wrong?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What could be the root cause of this behavior?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17489" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T21:16:03.697" LastActivityDate="2023-12-24T19:04:15.510" Title="2006 Jeep Liberty - AC clutch won't engage" Tags="|ac|jeep|hvac|liberty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29915" CreationDate="2016-05-21T21:25:56.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 places where oil gets into the combustion chamber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PCV system- you ruled this out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piston rings- engine rebuild time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve stem seals- these can be replaced without cylinder head removal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker oil will not solve the problem. There is no easy solution to 2 and 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T21:25:56.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T21:29:50.677" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;So last night my car wouldn't start . Everything in the car worked like the lights and radio but it just wouldn't start . I had my friend give me a jump and it started up no problem . So is this just a battery problem ..? Also I've been started three times today and nothing seems wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17491" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:06:25.223" Title="is it just the battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29912" CreationDate="2016-05-22T01:55:04.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it, as long as it does not take huge amounts of current. Make sure you ground the batteries' ground to an UNPAINTED screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17498" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T01:55:04.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T01:55:23.663" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the following brake pad kit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B002WB0M8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1293 Ceramic Disc Pad Set With Installation Hardware&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRIXn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRIXn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the kit comes with all the hardware,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the kit is missing the highlighted part in the following diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPu2j.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPu2j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found about the missing part at the middle of the installtion. The older part was so badly rusted and damaged so I just put everything together without the highlighted part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Is that part actually important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: If it is important &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; it is missing from such premium kit? If it comes with many pad related installation hardware, why the highlighted part should be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 3: Is it so important that I need to buy one and install it? The installed pads seem to be working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T02:23:47.123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T02:23:47.123" Title="Missing part from a brake pad kit" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T01:57:43.763" Score="1" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;When examining my engine bay earlier, I noticed a large amount of black gunk built up on the bottom part of the engine under the exhaust headers.  I removed the exhaust header heat shield and found the engine block covered in this slimey black residue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There did not appear to be any oil leaking from the valve cover, but this residue has been there for thousands of miles I just never realized the extent of it.  At one point I have had the head gasket changed so it may have fixed it or made it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this? Is there any way to check to make sure I'm not leaking oil and contributing to this accumulation of black gunk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="2583" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T13:57:15.850" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:57:15.850" Title="Cause of greasy gunk accumulation under exhaust headers" Tags="|engine|leak|acura|integra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29924" CreationDate="2016-05-22T02:17:26.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These appear to be anti-squeal/anti-rattle shims. These are now built into the brake pads instead of coming separately. Don't worry about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T02:17:26.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29478" CreationDate="2016-05-22T02:21:54.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I managed to open the Brake Bleeder Screw and replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to try the penetrating oils before the heat option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the following data from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/discussions/around-the-coffee-pot/58446-useful-info-on-penetrating-oils&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Penetrating oil ..... Average load&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None ..................... 516 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 .................. 238 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All over the internet are referring to above data. Still not sure it myth or fact? Regardless, I decided to give &amp;quot;Liquid Wrench&amp;quot; a  try since it is available everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprayed, waited 20 min - and retried 3 times. After the 3rd time, I managed to open the Brake Bleeder Screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I should share the experience here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should thank @Pete since his &amp;quot;PB Blaster&amp;quot; suggestion gave me the idea that I should research penetrating oils other than W40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T02:21:54.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29931" CreationDate="2016-05-22T02:49:15.320" Score="4" ViewCount="5779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed new rotors and serviced my front brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprayed both sides of the new rotors with brake cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lubricated the caliper pins with &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B005RNEH5O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this brake lubricant&lt;/a&gt;. I added the lubricant to the back of the pads as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a street test, I tested the new brake service in a highway - 70 mph, and keep using brakes. The new front brake setup works well, smooth and quite. However, I noticed below problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I tested the new rotor installation in the highway, I noticed white smoke comes out of the front wheels. The brake system works great and quite. Just white smoke. I waited for rotors to cool down. Then I did another highway test. I got less white smoke at the second test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the smoke is due to rotors are getting very hot and rust protective chemicals in them start to burn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is white smoke, did I use the right lubricant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="12877" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T21:00:57.773" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T12:36:44.547" Title="After new brake rotor installation, white smoke come out of brake system" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29929" CreationDate="2016-05-22T08:50:08.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its all down to the silicone paste. For brakes you would normally used copperslip. A copper based anti seize paste. It has a much higher tolerance for heat. I would remove the pads and use the correct compound rather than the silicone stuff. Inspect the pads for damage or the silicone getting on to the friction material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HBM8HU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1464075230&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=copper+anti+seize&lt;/a&gt; is what I have always used on the backs of pads and the mating surface between the wheel and hub.  Be careful to not get it on braking surfaces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="831" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T07:35:07.560" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T07:35:07.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T09:16:24.190" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to read steering angle from a car for research purposes. My question is - can I fit a steering wheel angle/torque sensor to a particular car that itself has no ESP/ESC (Electronic Stability Program/Control) built in but where ESP was sold as an option for that model? I mean, there should be space to accommodate such sensor even without the car needing to have ESP, right? I don't need the ESP functionality, I just need to fit the sensor and read values from it. It is cheaper for me to get a car without ESP and add the sensor to it only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cars of interest are following (both had optional ESP):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Opel/Vauxhall Corsa C&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fiat Punto Mk2 (model 188)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be this should be possible (since in factory all chassis are same and they either mount the SAS sensor or not), but I would rather have something confirming this. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:54:30.597" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:54:30.597" Title="Can steering wheel angle/torque sensor fit to a car that had it optional?" Tags="|sensor|steering-wheel|corsa|esp-esc|punto|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T10:12:54.983" Score="2" ViewCount="1009" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current springs have a rate of 360lbf/in and unfitted 420cm in length. Fitted to the car they are 350cm in length. What lbf/in do i need so that the car sits 3&quot; lower ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering a spring at 413cm in length rated at 225lbf/in but not sure what the height difference will be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17501" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T22:06:46.893" Title="What Springs do i need to drop 3&quot;" Tags="|suspension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T06:39:24.113" Score="6" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new float needle that fits and it still seem like the tang is not even touching the needle when I press the floater all way in.I have a PJ carb,maybe the floaters are to a pwk carb,maybe not the right size.Can anyone help me out here gas shoots straight out the overflow hose when I cut the fuel on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mike G" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T22:09:34.880" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T22:35:37.700" Title="Dirt bike carburetor problems" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29912" CreationDate="2016-05-22T13:56:40.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends how much power the &quot;popper&quot; needs to pop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8AAs might be enough,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 or 10 might work better (15V isn't going to damage anything) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or you might need fatter batteries, C or D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on the other hand it may be that your charger can be connected to the fuse &#xA;and have enough power to work the latch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastEditorUserId="9754" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T03:38:37.410" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T03:38:37.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:33:11.930" Score="6" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;PepBoys replaced my radiator a week ago exactly, because it blew a hose a week before. It also had the following symptoms:. &#xA;*spewing white smoke and fluid out the tail pipe. &#xA;*radiator losing all its water or coolant way quicker than normal. &#xA;*turning on the AC makes the needle move rapidly past the middle line,forcing me to stop and let it cool or turn off the engine at stop lights and such. &#xA;*gurgling sound with billowing white smoke coming from under the hood where the reservoir is locate anytime I have to idle for more than a couple of minutes, like at a long light or a fast food line. &#xA;* Main top radiator hose bursting suddenly spewing coolant all over the windshield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am beginning to think they may have known about the blown gasket at some point in the radiator replacement that cost me $400 last week. It took over an hour longer or more than estimated (3hrs) The manager explained that the mechanic working on my car ran into problems, but ignored my questions as to what the problems were. When I asked if that was what all the yelled I heard in the bays was about. He replied no ... just how children react - or something to that effect. He made himself busy when I tried to ask more questions, walking away to his office. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind they have several opportunities to figure this out seeing my car was in their shop at two locations 5 times. I did my research and found this great video that tests 12 ways to detect a blown gasket; The sizzle test by dropping oil on the engine block or radiator cap when it's running hot. If it sizzles then there is water/coolant present. I learned this from a &#xA;2 part video testing on ways to test for a gasket problem ....it's kinda like the myth busters for car repair! :) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwiIpTIrBaE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwiIpTIrBaE&lt;/a&gt; at about 8 minutes in. The story on how he heard about the sizzle test is pretty kewl too and he's pretty surprised it worked even! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've spent $800 dollars at PepBoys on my car. I would have never put in a new radiator if I'd known the real problem was the head gasket. They could have suggested a special radiator that cooled the engine better. I know there are ones like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just feels like this info was not revealed in a timely manner and that the result is they have gotten a good amount of money out of me and I still have the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not asking for my $400 back for the radiator. Just asking them to do the required prep work to use Blue Devil on the system and see if it seals up the blown gasket. It can't be that major as I can drive long distances all day without any problems except running out of coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd need an oil change to get the water/coolant/oil mixture out of the system, the radiator flushed and replaced with just plain water per the Blue Devil instructions. I'd do the pouring cause they service guy there seemed to imply that Blue Devil could damage my radiator ... clog it up. My reasoning is, it's new, so why would that happen? If my old rusty radiation was still in here I could understand this worry. Just need time .. a few months to save up enough to repair my van. It needs a catalytic converter and muffler. Then I'd eventually get the gasket fixed on this old beater car. I can't afford a car note and keeps my insurance down to less than $100 a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like my solution is reasonable and fair and they might get my van repair too. But not if they keep talking to me like the PepBoys guy did last night! He was down right ughly with me, getting in my face and sneering, yell-talking at me and couldn't hear a word I said. Otherwise I will drive 30 miles one way to Spring Grove PA where there is mechanic there I know is honest and trusted. He only works three days a week and is always busy. That's the sign of a man who knows what he's doing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I being unreasonable to suggest that since 4 different mechanics have worked on my car, that one of them should have seen the empty radiator the excessive pressure on the top hose that caused it to split, the tail pipe slewing and the white smoke billowing out of my reservoir and asked why? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this e a reasonable assumption for them to look at all those signs and say the radiator needs replaced and that it' fixed, even though they had a problem when they tested for leaks by doing a leak down compression test?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my request for them to prep my car for Blue Devil per the products instructions for free unreasonable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you whomever answers. I do appreciate your opinion(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17505" LastEditorUserId="17505" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T14:56:25.090" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T16:53:55.903" Title="Is it unreasonable to expect nation chain mechanics to recognize a blown head gasket from a radiator problem before installing new radiator?" Tags="|radiator|overheating|gasket|smoke|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:25:03.247" Score="8" ViewCount="5889" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decided to spend time w/my newly-met dad and do an oil change together on my 2014 Impreza Sport. I told him i want to do the work, myself, with his support. I'm fairly confident and have watched some youtube videos, but the manual does not specify steps (only to take to an authorized service center, which I did before and didn't like doing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's what I've gathered - did I miss anything?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, do I need to &quot;prime&quot; the new filter&lt;/strong&gt;, in any way (fill w/oil, smear oil on rim, something about a filter gasket...)?&#xA;One video said yes (WRX); another didn't mention it ('15 impreza). EDIT: the filter instructs to wipe film of oil on filter gasket, says nothing of filling w/oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loosen oil filter (under hood, at top), keep in place&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove oil fill spout cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jack up (or low-profile ramps), and safety jack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;underneath: 17mm wrench, remove pan plug &amp;amp; washer, have low-profile oil catchment ready, drain oil, wipe plug, change washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;release jacks, drains further, clean dipstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove filter, carefully wipe filter landing pad (so nothing drops in), (EDIT: wipe film of oil onto new filter gasket), replace filter (etc?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jack up, safety jack, replace oil pan plug &amp;amp; washer (not too tight!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fill w/ 0w-20 synth oil, exact am't (5.1qts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait 10 mins, check level w/dipstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if ok, replace oil fill plug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run engine a few mins before driving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a frequent web user and have worked on past (very old) cars; however, new to asking on stackexchange and working on this car. Pls excuse noob missteps. (Like how the first LI is not aligned properly - was either that or no &quot;listing format&quot; at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~maria&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17506" LastEditorUserId="17506" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T18:28:18.487" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T18:28:18.487" Title="Oil Change Steps? (check my list) 2014 Impreza" Tags="|maintenance|subaru|oil-change|oil-filter|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:48:29.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2004 Ford Explorer. It has a brand new battery, but when you turn the key in the ignition nothing happens. The lights comes on and the radio works but nothing else happens. All the dash board lights comes on. When my husband gets underneath and touch the starter it turns over but still won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17507" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T16:37:13.843" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T12:44:42.147" Title="car won't start when putting the key in the ignition" Tags="|ford|starting|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29938" CreationDate="2016-05-22T16:22:51.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you got most of the steps there but not all in the right order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow car to cool sufficiently so that the oil is not hot. This will make the rest of the job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive car onto low profile ramps and then block the rear tires so that it does not roll back. Put the car in park or in gear and apply the parking brake. Turn the car off. If you choose to jack up the car instead, first block the rear wheels, put the car in park, and apply the parking brake. Then jack up the front of the car from a safe location, Then use jack stands to secure the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove drain plug and washer and allow oil to drain into a catch pan. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow the oil to drain until it slows to a trickle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the oil catch pan below the filter and remove the filter. Allow the oil from the filter to fall into the catch pan.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When most of the oil has stopped draining, replace the drain plug. Use a new crush washer. Torque the drain plug to specification.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put oil on the rim of the gasket on the new filter. This will help to keep it from leaking. Tighten the filter as tight as you can get it with your hand, but don't use the oil filter wrench to tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the fill cap and use a funnel to pour in the new oil. Use the oil weight that is recommended in your owners manual. Your car should take   5 quarts of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace the cap and check for any leaks under the car. Use the dipstick to check the oil level. Wipe off the oil the first time you remove it, then insert it back in and pull it out again. Check that the oil level is close to the fill level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the car is on jack stands, then raise the car slightly with the jack again, remove the stands, then lower the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go into the car and start it up. Watch the oil light (it typically looks like an old fashioned oil can) If the oil light doesn't turn off within the first 5 seconds after you start the car then turn the car off, go check for leaks and check the oil level again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After starting the car, allow it to run for several minutes, check for leaks and check the oil level using the dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean up. Put the oil in a container that you can seal up, and take it  to a local parts store to recycle it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I would recommend this video on how to properly jack up a vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OyzbGDn6xg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OyzbGDn6xg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this video on how to properly do an oil change&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1hF25Cowv8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1hF25Cowv8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T16:22:51.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29939" CreationDate="2016-05-22T16:58:38.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a whole lot of things. I'm going to guess that the check engine light is on (and / or On and blinking...)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, we're going to need to see the stored OnBoard Diagnostics version 2 (OBDII) codes.  The only way to get those on your car is with an OBDII reader.  (either via a purchase at your local autoparts store, or online somewhere, or borrow one from a mechanic friend.)  In some areas your local autoparts store will read the code for you for free, but obviously that won't work if your car doesn't start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no check engine light, this sounds like an electrical issue.  I'm guessing you've likely got a fuse or solenoid out somewhere.  My recommendation there is to check all fuses in the vehicle, both underneath the drivers area of the instrument panel and under the hood...  You can find a directory to all fuses in your owners guide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another recommendation: Purchase a Haynes or Chilton's service manual for your vehicle.  They cost around $30 for your vehicle and its money well spent.  In this case they provide a complete wiring diagram, so you can determine which relay or other area of the car could cause this fault.  They have a decent 'fault' tree so you can troubleshoot the now start defect in a systemic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what lead you to replace the battery in this car in the first place?  Has the car been started even once since the battery has been replaced?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T16:58:38.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:02:33.967" Score="0" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to maintain a Ford Fiesta diesel car's engine which has lot of noise with no pick up and power steering oil leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has lot of problems like pick up, speed, mileage, rattling noise, power steering oil leakage problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17510" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T17:47:49.523" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T18:01:33.287" Title="very low speed in fact no pick up at all and lot of vibration of my ford fiesta diesel" Tags="|engine|power|steering|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29938" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:15:03.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joomag.com/magazine/subaru-impreza-manuals-2014-impreza-owners-manual/0536821001392410405?page=398&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions per your owners manual&lt;/a&gt;. If all else fails, go back to the manual ... you can almost &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; go wrong by doing so, especially if you still have warranty left on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I'll throw some descriptive stuff in along the way to clarify things a little. What @rviertel has written is fairly good, but I have some contention with a few finer points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Warm up the engine by letting the engine idle for approximately 10 minutes to ease draining the engine oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Park the vehicle on a level surface and turn the ignition switch to the &quot;LOCK&quot; (off) position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the oil filler cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drain out the engine oil by removing the drain plug while the engine is still warm. The used oil should be drained into an appropriate container and disposed of properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready to drain the oil, jack the vehicle up and support it, using a jack stand if you have it. For safety reasons, it's not prudent to go under the car with just a hydraulic jack holding it up as it can fail at any time. If you don't have your car slammed to the ground, there may be enough ground clearance to drain the oil without jacking it up. If so, this would be far easier than any other method I can mention (I can do this with my truck). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wipe the seating surface of the drain plug with a clean cloth and tighten it securely with a new sealing washer after the oil has completely drained out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Before installing a new oil filter, apply a thin coat of engine oil to the seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applying a thin film of oil on the filter seal, ensure you use &lt;em&gt;clean oil&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;8&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Clean the rubber seal seating area of the engine and install the oil filter by hand turning. Be careful not to twist or damage the seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it doesn't happen very often, make sure the old seal came away with the old filter. If the old seal stays in place, there will be a huge oil spill and it will not seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;9&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Tighten the oil filter by the amount indicated in the following table after the seal makes contact with the seating surface (The table states &lt;strong&gt;1 rotation&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC, the Subaru oil filter sticks out sideways from the engine (at least in the ones I've seen), which means there's no logical way to put oil into the filter during the oil change. Just one of those things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not over tighten your filter. The reasons are plentiful, but mainly so the next time you pull the filter off, you can actually get it off without destroying the filter. Secondly, if you over tighten the filter, you can crush the washer and cause it to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;10&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pour engine oil through the filler neck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your choice of oil is correct. I was surprised to find Subaru specifically states &quot;&lt;em&gt;0W-20 synthetic oil is the &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; oil for optimum engine performance and protection.&lt;/em&gt; Convention oil may be used if synthetic oil is unavailable.&quot; If the engine is completely drained, use 5.1 quarts of oil to refill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;11&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Start the engine and make sure that no oil leaks appear around the filter's rubber seal and drain plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Run the engine until it reaches the normal operating temperature. Then turn the ignition switch to the &quot;LOCK&quot; (off) position and wait a few minutes to allow the oil drain back. Check the oil level again and if necessary, add more engine oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T17:15:03.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29937" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:34:54.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not immediately assume the repair shop was out to get you.  Its possible, but not likely.  PepBoys is a national chain, and their best most profitable behavior is to quickly and efficiently repair customer's cars.  Any national chain will also spot check the reliability of their individual repair centers.  I'm not saying its impossible, it just doesn't make much sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a whole lot of radiator / cooling related topics on mechanics.stackexchange.com, so I'll let you read up on some of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for your head gasket thing.  I would expect that as a result of poor engine cooling not something that caused the radiator hose to blow off in the first place. And mixing of coolant and oil is bad, but it's possible there is a crack in either the head or block.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation to you. If you seriously want to understand more about your vehicle, consider the purchase of a Haynes or Chilton's service manual. $30 at your local auto parts store. They have detailed troubleshooting guides.  You can tell exactly how your car works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for the Blue Devil thing.  Er, yeah.  I'm not really impressed with those sort of products.  Yes, they are supposed to clean the interior of your coolant system.  In my experience what messes up the interior of the coolant system is the use of tap water (and not distilled water) when adding coolant.  That creates hard deposits on the inside of the radiator tubes.  And no amount of Blue Devil will remove that stuff very well.  It tends to be money wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be more inclined to look closely at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your cooling fan, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the control system that drives the fan, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sealing between the radiator and the front end of the vehicle, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the air flow into the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the functioning of the overflow bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the functioning of the radiator cap two way seals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From where I'm sitting, this could have been a $15 radiator cap gone astray months ago causing all of these problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I would like to know make model and year of vehicle.  On later year vehicles, the manufacturers added overheat protections into the engine control computer (shut down X cylinders, limp home mode, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T17:34:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:55:55.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 4 cyl. It has a replaced engine from a Galant. The car has started dying on me seemingly randomly - I haven't seen a pattern in the fuel level, time of day, speed or anything else. When it dies, the engine will completely shut off (no gas, no power steering) and all the dash lights will come on, but I have all the electrical functions working (lights, radio, AC, windows, etc). It has done this while I'm driving down the road, when I'm just sitting at a red light braked, and when I'm parked in a parking lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it dies, I turn it completely off and then immediately crank it back up. It cranks fine, the engine does roar up, but it immediately dies again (RPMs fall to 0). Giving it gas upon cranking won't prevent this - it will stay on only as long as I give it gas, then it will die. If the car does happen to stay on, the RPMs seem very low -- sitting around or below 500 RPMs (under the 1 marker). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I let it sit off for a while, it will usually drive fine for a while longer before the same problems comes up again. If it stays on long enough to drive, pressing the gas will make the car &quot;jump&quot; - it will go, but it seems like it has to get over some hump. Usually it will die again shortly after driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it doesn't sound like an electrical problem, but I do have electrical problems with the car (very dim headlights, have already replaced the bulbs, the battery, and the alternator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other internet sites and my boyfriend's dad suggested it could be due to a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter but I was hoping for maybe a more definitive answer to avoid a large cost of finding the problem with only a possibility of fixing it. It won't drive very far without dying anymore, so I will have to get it towed to a shop once I have a good idea of what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all in advance!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17512" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T15:28:32.043" Title="Mitsubishi Eclipse dies while driving, then won't stay on after cranking back up" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|eclipse|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29943" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:01:33.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are starting the journey investigating how your car works and how to maintain it properly.  Awesome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you start the trip with the purchase of a service manual (either Haynes or Chiltons) They run about $30 USD.  That book will help you understand how things work.  They provide troubleshooting guides for repairing issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'd skim thru the book, take a complete inventory of your cars performance state for each of chapters of the book.  You are going to prepare a &quot;things to do&quot; list for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other alternative is to take the car to a mechanic and have them perform an assessment survey on your car. They will provide you with a comprehensive list of things that need service or repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That list will have to be prioritized.  Obviously safety related items need to get fixed immediately.  Work down the list one item at a time.  Go slow, accumulate tools as you need them.  You don't need to complete every repair at once.  Spend some time understanding what can go wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My three rules for working on cars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never work on the car that you have to drive to work tomorrow.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus on your safety.  Always ask the question, what could possibly happen here?  ... will I get hurt? (ask me about my cutting a fuel line with welding torch while laying underneath a car experience...) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get tired and pissed off and things aren't going smoothly, take a real hard look at the wrench in your hand.  Stare at it for a moment.  Then throw the wrench as hard as you can at the back wall of the garage, close the garage door and go home.  You are done for the day.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T18:01:33.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29949" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:50:28.377" Score="5" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased late 2012 new from dealer. My son reported &quot;hot oily amber drips&quot; on his bare rt. foot while driving home from the beach. I investigated and it very much appeared to be coolant leaking from heater core area just above gas pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed and coupled together the heater hoses on the firewall in the engine compartment and it appears to have stopped (confirming, in my mind, that the heater core is ca-putz). Incidentally, my daughter (primary vehicle driver) reported that the heater/defrost had not been working (blower works, AC works, no heat) for last 6 months (naturally, she did not tell me this until the activity surrounding the coolant leak commenced). My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Jeep is only 3 1/2 yrs. old, 33,000 miles. This seems &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; too soon for the heater core to fail. It is out of warranty but shouldn't the dealer make it right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone else have experience with heater core failure on late model Jeeps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my heater core bypass job going to cause any problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:06:16.323" Title="2012 Jeep Patriot Heater Core Leak" Tags="|jeep|hvac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29948" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:06:16.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory your fix should not harm anything. You won't have any heat in the vehicle, but basic mechanical principle should lead to &lt;em&gt;No it won't hurt anything&lt;/em&gt;. Jeep and just Chrysler in general have issues with HVAC quite frequently. As far as how quickly it failed, 4 years isn't unreasonable, but does seem odd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrysler ordered a change out of coolant types in their vehicles because the engineers deemed it the reason for all the issues with HVAC on their cars. If you Google &lt;em&gt;chrysler switches to OAT&lt;/em&gt; It will show you the details. They claim longer service intervals, but any seasoned tech can tell you that was just to cover their butts. As far as the dealership goes. I would just pursue it and see if you can get anywhere. You can't really lose anything by at least trying to argue with them. These are known issues especially in Jeeps. If they've been putting their standard synthetic coolant in it this whole time. It's their fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:06:16.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T20:33:44.960" Score="3" ViewCount="1728" Body="&lt;p&gt;This truck is a nightmare. Every time we drive it, something breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had it in the shop about a month ago because all of the gas lines were rusted out and leaking. While it was there, they also took care of the transmission cooler lines because they were leaking too. We have driven it only a handful of times since then for fear of something else breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife drove it on Thursday to a few different stores and when she got home we had to take our dogs to the vet so we piled them in the back and took off. On the way there, when we were stopped at a red light, we could smell something like burning rubber/plastic (I couldn't pinpoint the smell exactly). I said &quot;I hope that's not us&quot;. So we get to the vet, which is only a couple miles from our house, and the smell is overwhelming...it &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; us because of course it was. When we got out of the car, there was smoke coming from the front-left wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we went in to the vet appointment and while my wife was taking care of the payment I went out to the truck to do some inspection. I checked all of the tires and didn't see any noticeable burning anywhere, which is frustrating. So when my wife came out, I went to back out of our parking spot and everything was cool until I turned the wheel. As soon as I turned the wheel, the entire truck grinded to a stop and I had to give it major gas to get it to move. Once I straightened the wheel back out everything appeared normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I got it home, I jacked it up and took the front wheels off. Both of the calipers on the front were rusted very badly and the bottom slider bolts on both of them were missing the boot and were obviously seized. There wasn't any significant damage to the rotors, but I didn't want to take any chances so I did a full brake job on both sides (calipers, rotors, pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I finished that up yesterday, I went to back out of the driveway and &lt;strong&gt;same thing&lt;/strong&gt;. The truck seized up on me when I started to turn the wheel. It was getting late so I let it sit until today. This morning I took off the rear wheels and checked out the back brakes and everything seems fine there. Plenty of pad left, caliper boots are flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I put them back on and hopped in the truck to think. I looked down and saw the 4WD knob. The options are 2WD, Auto, 4WD-High, and 4WD-Low. It was on Auto because it was just winter and I've never had an issue being on Auto before. So I grabbed the knob and switched it from &quot;Auto&quot; to &quot;2WD&quot; and the whole truck &lt;strong&gt;LUNGED&lt;/strong&gt; forward. Like, I thought I was gonna go through the garage door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after that, I turned the truck back on, backed out of the driveway with no problems at all, and drove it around the block. None of the symptoms I was experiencing are present in 2WD mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No check engine light, however, when I was driving home from the vet the other day I was getting the &quot;service stabilitrak&quot; and &quot;service traction control&quot; messages on the DIC. I don't even know where to start looking and I seriously can't afford to keep taking it to a mechanic every time I drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17513" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T13:36:18.533" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:36:18.533" Title="2007 Yukon XL issues in four wheel drive" Tags="|gmc|yukon-xl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29950" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:21:00.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the 4wd thing goes, this is normal operation when on dry pavement. You are actually causing the transfer case to bind. This happens when the steering is hard over. The bind comes from the difference while you are turning from the front wheels to the back wheels. The transfer case is designed for the vehicle to go straight. You shouldn't notice it as bad in Auto4WD, but it can happen. You will &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; notice it when you have it in 4WD-HI or 4WD-LO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you switched it from Auto to 2WD, you released the bind which was in the transfer case, which caused the vehicle to lunge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, if you don't need the 4wd (whether auto or full time), leave it in 2wd. You'll get much better gas mileage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T21:21:00.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29970" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:34:48.647" Score="5" ViewCount="6149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just rebuilt most of a 2 stroke jet boat. ( if you need want any boat details, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29411/starting-a-2-stroke-jet-boat-after-several-years/29424&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I purchased the boat, the thickest negative battery terminal wire was not connected to anything. This is literally the last connection I have to make before trying to turn over the new engine I just installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what this wire is supposed to be connected too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T17:07:26.220" Title="Where Does My Boats Main Negative Battery Terminal Wire Go?" Tags="|battery|boat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29954" CreationDate="2016-05-22T21:57:18.167" Score="14" ViewCount="63659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read many articles online and people have different opinions about this issue.  Some say 89 is the best for acceleration.  Others say 87 is just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried only about the health of my car.  So I read my user manual. Here are the screenshots.  I'm not sure, but SE probably stands for sport edition.  So should I use better than 87? I just want to use whatever is best for my RAV4's health.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnAYi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnAYi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzsah.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzsah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16843" LastEditorUserId="11892" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T11:49:25.897" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T16:18:53.713" Title="Should I use gasoline 87, 89 or 93 on 2016 RAV4 SE" Tags="|toyota|gasoline|octane|rav4|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:07:29.667" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically, if the manual and the manufacturer are stating you should use 87 octane, &lt;em&gt;that's really what you should use&lt;/em&gt;. If you purchase more expensive 89, 91, or 93, you are just wasting money. The higher the octane rating, the harder it is for fuel to burn (or ignite). If the vehicle was specified to use 93, then that's what you should buy or you risk engine damage. You run no risk to the engine by running what the manufacturer says. You'll also gain no performance advantage from running the higher octane, mainly because the engine (and computer tune) are not designed to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T22:07:29.667" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:54:23.487" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend using &lt;code&gt;89&lt;/code&gt; . I have 2015 RAV4 . 89 does  give  you a better acceleration, you are right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go with 89 . This is the golden average .  Your manual says 87 or higher . So anything above 87 is okay. However, i wouldn't go with 93 . Be cautious 93 may result in unburnt fuel that is not very good &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17179" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T22:54:23.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-23T00:32:58.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The acid test is if you try a lower octane fuel, if you hear any &quot;knocking&quot; sounds under hard acceleration (perhaps up a hill), then you definitely need a higher octane rating.  As Paulster2 mentions, there will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be any performance improvement, in spite of what a lot of people say.  The octane rating is just a measure of resistance to knocking.  I have a 2003 Toyota Celica GT-S that recommends premium and it runs fine on mid-grade, saving me $2.00 or more on every tank of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T00:32:58.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29972" CreationDate="2016-05-23T01:32:43.927" Score="0" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there is a clog in the oil pan that is preventing me from fully draining it.  I'm too cheap to buy a copy of the Hayne's manual for the 2006 Toyota Corolla.  The specific information I am missing is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sequence for removing and replacing the oil pan bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;proper torque for said bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do I use sealant or a gasket?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if using a gasket, does it need to be lubricated (as one would lubricate an oil filter's gasket)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10829" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T06:53:28.383" Title="What is the correct procedure for removing and replacing the oil pan on a 2006 Corolla?" Tags="|toyota|oil-change|corolla|torque|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29973" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:00:29.770" Score="6" ViewCount="34476" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Vitz 2007 burns engine oil. I replaced the PCV valve but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the answer to my previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29915/engine-burning-oil&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;, this could be either due to bad piston rings or bad valve seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to differentiate between these two causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T22:06:52.423" Title="Oil burning: differenciate between bad valve seals or piston rings" Tags="|toyota|oil|vitz|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:22:37.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;87 will work, 89 is optimal, 93 will also work but uses a bit more (will start to run leaner but the computer easily compensates but using more fuel) 87 better for winter (no difference over 89), 89 better for summer (helps when underhood is HOT when you have the A/C running AND trying to keep the engine around operating temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would maybe avoid the absolute cheapest/oldest gas stations as there might be water/rust contamination issues. That would pose a greater threat to your engines health than just running 87 all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17520" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T02:22:37.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29960" CreationDate="2016-05-23T03:12:08.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A compression test will show whether its the seals or the rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the engine is warm and perform a compression test (dry) and take a note of the readings. Then pour a couple of teaspoons of engine oil and pour it inside the chamber through spark plug hole and re do the test again. If the readings are higher, then the rings are bad as the oil will cover the rings and will lead to a higher reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T03:12:08.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T03:16:30.197" Score="5" ViewCount="8399" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a poorly marked speed bump on the way into the mall and I hit it going probably 15mph over the rated speed. It was a small speed bump (not those humps that induces rocking, ~1 feet in diameter) and I do believe that the car bottomed out however none of the underside seems to be damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It did sound like the front suspension was completely bottomed out but there was absolutely no damage to the undercarriage/skid plate. The rear ones did not seem to have bottomed out but I was accelerating and my trunk had a lot of boxes so I would assume that the rear wheels would have been more compacted at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What damage could this have incurred? (Model: Acura TSX 2012).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, where can we find information about the Acura TSX suspension travel distance etc (google is failing me right now and the manual does not contain this info)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17522" LastEditorUserId="17522" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T16:03:30.580" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T04:52:51.040" Title="Damage to shocks over speed bump" Tags="|suspension|acura|tsx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T03:18:03.823" Score="3" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX. The radio works but the tape deck does not. I'm thinking about replacing it myself. I'm not looking to spend much on it overall so please let me know if this is something you've been able to do yourself and how long would something like this take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T11:39:36.317" Title="How difficult is it to replace a car radio on a 2000 Honda Accord?" Tags="|honda|accord|audio|replace|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29965" CreationDate="2016-05-23T03:37:15.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not difficult really, if you're handy with a screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hondas are usually pretty easy to pull the dash apart on, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+1998+1999+2000+2001+2002+Honda+Accord+Stereo+Head+Unit/2440&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt; will help you with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, it's just a case of installing your new stereo. Most &quot;good&quot; brands (like Alpine and so forth) will have adaptor plugs that can make it easy to go from your cars original stereo plug to the new one... So you won't even need to solder anything. Just plug and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can generally swap a car stereo in and out within an hour, depending on how fiddly the car is. But it's not a hard job and one pretty much anyone can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T03:37:15.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29964" CreationDate="2016-05-23T04:16:34.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At most, you may have knocked the alignment out, however you probably didn't damage the suspension otherwise. If the shocks are really old, they can start to leak if you hit the bumpstops hard, however you probably didn't do much to the car if you didn't notice the suspension instantly collapse downwards or make noises/knocks/etc after you went over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, it's probably not wise to do it again. hahah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T04:16:34.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29952" CreationDate="2016-05-23T06:16:15.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connect it to the engine block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bolt on the engine end of one of the engine mounts, or&#xA;one of the bolts that hold the starter, but not a hot spot &#xA;like one of the exhaust manifold bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anywhere on the engine block is pretty-much equivalent so connect it to the most convenient place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9754" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T06:16:15.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29964" CreationDate="2016-05-23T06:29:50.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very possible to damage the struts and shocks on a small vehicle hitting a speed bump. It is more a vehicle weight, speed of impact issue and reaction time of the shock to absorb that energy rather than size of speed bump. I blew 4 MacPherson struts on a Toyota Corolla and the struts were after market replacements (Munroes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt very much that alignment would affected in any way. In order to affect alignment the lower control arm and or ball joint would have to have subjected to an impact. If she nailed the curbed at the same time she nailed the speed bump..then definitely...otherwise not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; One the reasons that the front end bottomed out was because of the weight of the engine, transmission, and related components was close to about 400 Lbs plus about half of the weight of the car body. The poor struts and springs are saying &quot;I'm dying over here&quot; as they are trying to compensate for a rapid up and down motion in response to the speed bump. &#xA;How heavy were the boxes in the trunk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T17:19:19.520" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T17:19:19.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29958" CreationDate="2016-05-23T06:53:28.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on ToyoNation explaining what you need to do: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-2003-2008/1128857-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-oil-pan-replacement-pics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, removing the bolts you don't need a sequence. When torquing them back up, you want to do them up in a diagonal star pattern, as you would with your wheel lugs etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guide recommends using a toyota sealant, which is probably about right. Any RTV sealant that's at the right spec (heat and oil resistant) will do the trick. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RTV Grey&lt;/a&gt; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily on a lot of FWD cars, the pan/sump is pretty easily accessible... It's not a terrible job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: If you get a magnetic poking stick (they are like a dollar at most car parts stores) you should poke that into the oil drain hole before pulling the car apart. You might dislodge the sludge, making your job easier. Or you might pull out the remains of your big ends, so you won't need to worry about pulling the oil pan off anyway ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T06:53:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29960" CreationDate="2016-05-23T07:24:58.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can perform a Leak Down Test to pinpoint what's going wrong. You'll obviously need a leakdown tester kit, you'll need an air compressor, and some hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull out spark plugs and either by hand or using a bar, rotate the&#xA;engine so that the first cylinder you're testing is at top dead&#xA;centre. You can put a screwdriver in the hole and watch it move up&#xA;and down as you rotate the crank. DONT turn the engine backwards if&#xA;you miss TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the car into gear and set the hand brake to prevent the engine&#xA;from turning when you pump air into the cylinder. Start with the&#xA;regulator turned counterclockwise so you zero the pressure coming in.&#xA;Connect your air compressor, and turn the regulator clockwise to pressurise the cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Write down what the leakage percentage is on the gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then, open the radiator cap, the oil cap, pull the dipstick, and take off the air cleaner. You can now listen from all these points and see if you can hear air escaping. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air whistling out of the intake probably means a leak around the intake valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air coming out of the exhaust or exhaust mani indicates an exhaust valve leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear it whistle out of the PCV valve, oil pour hole or dipstick is a sign of that air getting past the piston rings - i.e. cooked rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if any air bubbles out through the coolant, it indicates a head gasket leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T07:24:58.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-23T09:10:01.547" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every modern (fuel injected) car will run fine on any type of gasoline you can get on a decent gas station. The car has an engine computer that adjusts many parameters multiple times per second to get optimal performance no matter the temperature, air pressure, octane rating, throttle position, hill slope etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different octane rating may make a very small difference in mileage or peak performance. I personally tank the cheapest. Never experienced any measurable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer probably has to put octane rating in the manual to get certification right (otherwise someone would tank 50% water and sue, claiming that is runs sluggish...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17529" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T09:10:01.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29965" CreationDate="2016-05-23T11:39:36.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that particular make of car, but in the UK &quot;standard size&quot; radios are often held in the dash by a spring-clip device, not by screws. You need a pair of extractor tools like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-car-audio-release-tool-pc5-83&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-car-audio-release-tool-pc5-83&lt;/a&gt;. Some cars require special tools for that particular design of radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You push the extractors into holes near the corners of the radio front panel (the holes may be covered by small blanking plugs or screws). When they are pushed fully in, the extractors unlock the retaining spring and latch themselves firmly the radio, so you can use the extractors to pull the radio out of the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fiddly part is dealing with the connectors at the back of the radio, if you need to use an adaptor between the new radio and the original car wiring. Otherwise on modern cars you just push the radio back into place, and the connectors will line up automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T11:39:36.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T11:54:49.637" Score="1" ViewCount="4197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently run a 2012 Ford Focus Zetec which has a radio system built into the console as shown in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The version I have does not have built in navigation, and I would like to replace it if possible with a system that supports Android Auto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how easy it would be to replace the radio. Are there hidden DIN slots behind the fascia - if so is there a replacement fascia to support that? I'm also guessing that the steering wheel controls would perhaps not be compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZhof.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZhof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Focus Console&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7368" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:02:07.383" Title="How difficult is it to replace a car radio on a Ford Focus 2012?" Tags="|ford|audio|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:24:49.133" Score="1" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Honda S2000 2002,137000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, while running on the Track I lost the two spring bolts on the header/tespipe... so the car started shaking badling and caused my aem v2 intake to loose from the engine but I didn't notice right away so I did another session. I then put two brand new bolts and fit the intake right back into it's place but the car is now only shaking when the RPM is dipping under 1000... it used to idle at 1000-1200 but now it goes as low as 500 and that's when the vibration is making the whole car shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I pushed the car really hard on the track while the intake was off the engine I assume the problem comes from a dirty intake, IACV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s: the engine mounts look bad but since it only shaking when it goes under 1000 rpm I don't think it's that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All inputs are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17531" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T13:20:11.307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T21:40:57.677" Title="Hard vibration when idle under 1000 rpm" Tags="|honda|exhaust|vibration|track|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:28:26.393" Score="0" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while my truck's ignition has been acting up and I would have to roll the ignition. back and fourth several times before it would start but one day I went to crank it and the truck acted like it had no battery at all in it. No warning lights/lamps would come on, horn wont work, and the usually open door buzz wasn’t there. any reasons to why it may have done this and are there any parts I should replace that might help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17532" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T05:29:56.483" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T05:29:56.483" Title="'86 Ford Ranger won't start" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|starting|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29980" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:25:03.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the battery condition? Your local motor parts supplier should be able to test it for you, and replace it if it's failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guide, batteries usually last 5-8 years, so if it's in that range or older, you'll probably need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the condition of the connections to the battery terminals, and the condition of the grounding straps to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:25:03.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:50:06.637" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a 2001 Ford Fiesta Flight 1.3 Petrol, having learnt to drive in a Diesel Corsa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that in order not to stall, I have to give it a lot of gas.  Whilst I know that petrols require more gas than diesels to get going, the amount I have to give it in order not to stall seems a bit excessive.  As such, I've accidentally span the wheels on a few occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's a more 'basic' model, I have no RPM gauge so can't accurately judge what I'm doing each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that there may be something wrong, or something that needs adjusting?  Someone suggested that a mixture adjustment might need to be made?  Alternatively, is it more likely that I'm simply getting used to an older Petrol rather than a newish Diesel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17533" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T19:16:36.330" Title="2001 Ford Fiesta Stalling" Tags="|ford|fiesta|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29977" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:02:07.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy complete replacement kits, including the Android device; e.g see &lt;a href=&quot;https://radio-upgrade.com/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;amp;p=86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://radio-upgrade.com/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;amp;p=86&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just buy the trim - e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008MQEMJE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5827B-Double-Installation-2012-Up/dp/B008MQEMJE&lt;/a&gt; (note the comments on the button color, however)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle display at the top is retained, and the CD is replaced by a DoubleDIN unit (or your Android device)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:02:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29933" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:21:34.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing lowering springs that reduce the ride height of a car by more than ~1 inch, you'll want to increase the spring rate to avoid bottoming out (body scraping the ground or shocks reaching maximum stroke). You'll also need to replace your shocks if you change the spring rate more than ~10%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to lower the car by using a lighter spring, you'll need to know the corner weights of the car, but for a rough estimation you can take the GVW (gross vehicle weight) and divide it by 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the information you provided, your car has an approximate weight of 3200 lbs, so the weight on each spring is ~800 lbs (assuming 50/50 front/rear weight distribution) To lower the car by 3&quot;, you'd need a spring rate of 154 lb/in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the calculated 3200lb GVW, a spring rate of 225 lb/in will cause the car to sit 1.3&quot; lower than stock, but since the springs are (assuming you meant mm instead of cm) 7mm shorter (unloaded free length), the overall drop will be roughly 1.6&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I advise against using lower rate springs to lower the car. Good lowering springs will be shorter in free length and higher in rate, so that the shocks do not bottom out when you go over bumps etc. I would search some internet forums for your specific car and ask around about lowering springs, in the US you can usually find a set for ~350USD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:21:34.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:40:36.183" Score="3" ViewCount="3213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new clutch kit along with the cam belt changed in my 2007 Opel Corsa as  routine maintainance. The car was driving well all along... even did 160kmh while driving to the mechanics workshop.&#xA;After the new clutch was fitted and service done on the vehicle it started to have a serious vibration when I drove passed 80kmh.&#xA;The mechanics inspected it and then changed the front Engine mount.&#xA;The problem was slightly better since the vibrations now started at 100kmh.&#xA;The following day we had the ball-joints replaced after going to check at alignment and they advised that they are the culprits of the vibration, everything else was okay.&#xA;After replacing the ball-joints the vibration now starts at 120kmh.&#xA;Can you please give an educated guess as to what may be the cause of the vibration since the vehicle was fine all along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17536" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T16:22:05.877" Title="Vehicle vibrates when driving past 120kmh, this is after doing a routine clutch change on a Opel Corsa 1.4i" Tags="|clutch|timing-belt|vibration|manual-transmission|ball-joint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29987" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:57:24.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parts removed and replaced as part of the service work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;parts that may have been close to worn out that may have been stressed past their limits by the work&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or it could even be coincidental - your car is reasonably old and things can just fail.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this is just too broad. Sounds like the mechanics are going through diagnostics to figure out where the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T14:57:24.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T16:46:38.913" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Suburban started doing something odd on starting before, but I'm not completely sure how to describe its behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It get's past the battery part fine when it's starting, and the starter motor is new, so that part sounds perfect and is always quick, but what happens is right when the motor is starting every once in a while it has a very slow and sluggish sounding start, like once the motor is on it takes a few seconds to get back to sounding correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does this seemingly randomly, in any weather condition (wet, hot, cold, etc.) and it's got about 216,000 miles on it. What could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T17:02:23.540" Title="1999 Chevy Suburban Sluggish Start" Tags="|engine|starting|chevrolet|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29990" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:02:23.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goodness, this could be just about anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What setting is the heater, ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) set at? I'd expect this as normal if the A/C compressor is engaged (which it is in normal A/C modes, plus defrost and defog modes...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't necessarily expect fuel related issues with this description, but it would be nice to see if there are any engine diagnostic codes stored in the engine management computer.  The one area of concern is how this engine manages cold start functions.  You could have a slow idle bypass function control system.  Its also possible that area of the intake system is dirty and gummed up.   Normally I'd expect to see diagnostic codes, but dirt and grime causing a slow controller might not set a code.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark is a possible issue.  If you've got old spark plug wires, and they are grounding out, who knows how that will look.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to know if there is a vacuum leak from old split hoses anywhere on the top of the engine.  I'm particularly interested in the lines that run to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.  Its best to take a while and physically examine each and every rubber line in the engine compartment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its possible you've got a problem in either the EGR or the Carbon Cannister bypass system, but problems there should set a code.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd sure like to see the results of a code test (free at many autoparts stores) and the results of a vacuum hose cracked or broken review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T17:02:23.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2016-05-23T18:16:26.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I know that this is an old question, but I want to provide a brief answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amount of work that is necessary to fix anything inside the transmission is very close to the amount of work that is necessary to do the rebuild&lt;/strong&gt; (on average).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your average Rebuild = replace friction plates, and replace rubber seals (sometimes they come &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; in a kit) + replace and damaged larger parts (rarely happens). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of saying &quot;we will try to fix it, but depending on what we find it will cost you $1600-$3600 and your car will be here from 1 to 30 days&quot; they say &quot;we will put in a rebuilt transmission for $2500 and you will have your car tomorrow&quot;. On average, putting in a rebuilt transmission generates the least amount of complains from the customers. &lt;em&gt;I can say this, I am just one of the customers who opted for doing the rebuild on his own and gained quite a lot of &quot;inside knowledge&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17544" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T18:16:26.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T12:31:09.447" Score="3" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of automotive connector is on the images below? The last image (from device docs) says &quot;pa66-gf35&quot; which leads me to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.cz/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=11&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjgi7j_l_DMAhUiEJoKHaGqCKQQFghTMAo&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.te.com%2Fcommerce%2FDocumentDelivery%2FDDEController%3FAction%3Dshowdoc%26DocId%3DCatalog%2BSection%257F1307992-2_GET_64_Interconnection_System%257F1209%257Fpdf%257FEnglish%257FENG_CS_1307992-2_GET_64_Interconnection_System_1209.pdf%257F1393366-1&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGtiT7Y4X70C_7jYGIMazPqSlh3CA&amp;amp;sig2=UmtNOHru4aXpfADzduDVtA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.122448493,d.bGs&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tyco Electronics connector catalogue&lt;/a&gt; where this &quot;housing material&quot; is listed about 60 times - I have no idea if one of the connectors is the one I need though. The connector has 2x9 pins. The dimensions below are in mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the connector on device - I need the female part for the cable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dncwb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dncwb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7o33R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7o33R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ohidc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ohidc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" OwnerDisplayName="Kozuch" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T18:59:09.510" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T05:42:38.120" Title="Which 18-pin automotive connector is this?" Tags="|part-identification|connector|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29993" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:17:28.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess when it comes to your contact is that it is a standard 2x9 (2.54 mm/ 0.1 in) pin connector housed inside some company's exotic socket. My suggestion to you would be to get a IDC Socket 2x9 pin 0.1 in Female with ribbon cable. &#xA;This seems to be supported by page 6-46 in the PDF that you linked. It seems that their 2x9 connector could also fit you system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the exact connector type and name I'd suggest to start with looking at the device where the connector is located and looks at the vendor's website. If they have tech support you could mail them and ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17559" OwnerDisplayName="NoobPointerException" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:17:28.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29993" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:44:35.470" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that this is one of Delphi's own proprietary connectors - it's not a Tyco one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a cursory search, the mating connector appears to be &quot;Delphi 13658062&quot;. However there is no datasheet for that one for some reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is information on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/connection-systems/catalog/feature?search=13658063&quot;&gt;Delphi 13658063&lt;/a&gt; which is the same except for the locating notch position. In fact if you look at the images (they supply images not a pdf just to be awkward), you will see that the 13658062 is listed there and has the correct alignment notches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing some further looking, it seems to also be equivalent (perhaps a new number) to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/connection-systems/catalog/feature?search=13658063#&quot;&gt;Delphi 13699658&lt;/a&gt; which does have the alignment notches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I also found the &lt;a href=&quot;https://fccid.io/pdf.php?id=1084989&quot;&gt;pin-out&lt;/a&gt; in case you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56907" OwnerDisplayName="Tom Carpenter" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:44:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4393" CreationDate="2016-05-23T19:42:18.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEVER use anti-seize on spark plugs.&lt;/strong&gt; Anti-seize has a metal base to it and not used sparingly, can short the electrode and cause a misfire. Also, if you have any questions, look up specs on all spark plug manufacturers about using anti-seize. ALL say not to in their spec sheets. Google &quot;Should I use anti seize on spark plugs&quot; and you will get your answer. I Googled it for the same reason as this article and had to remove the head to get the plug shell out. The spark plug bore had been filled with water for years and simply rusted the plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, anti-seize acts as a lubricant and a &quot;torque multiplier&quot; and can lead to over-torqueing of the plug and stripped threads in the aluminum head. The torque spec for plugs in aluminum heads is typically 7 to 12 ft/lbs. I install at 10 ft/lbs. I thought the same as what was recommended in another reply prior until I looked it up. With mine, I have to be careful. The threads were saved but not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17546" LastEditorUserId="17546" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T19:49:20.670" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T19:49:20.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T19:51:08.030" Score="9" ViewCount="10959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually keep a speed of 150-160 km/h (93-99mph) on the highway without any problems whatsoever. However, yesterday I decided to go up to 170 km/h (106mph) and the engine doing around 4600 rpm, when the engine suddenly turned off. The engine was not close to being overheated in the slightest, and I was not out of fuel. I did a full stop and started the engine again and continued driving with a speed of 140-150 km/h (87-93mph) without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it does not &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; that the car turned off as a direct cause of too much strain on the engine (or anything else) since there was no overheating, no smell, and the car had no problems after starting the engine again (however, I did not try to drive 170 km/h (106mph) again to see what would happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most probable causes of this? Is there a possibility that the car manufacturer has programmed this as a &quot;safety&quot; feature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a Nissan Primera from 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; After further testing I have noticed that the engine does not turn off if I accelerate &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; slowly. Furthermore, the engine doesn't always turn off and seems to have a lower probability of turning off if this hasn't happened for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Things have gotten a lot worse. The car turns off at high rpm (~3000) even when stationary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17545" LastEditorUserId="17545" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T17:24:26.003" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T11:46:30.983" Title="Car turns off when travelling at high speed" Tags="|engine|nissan|primera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30002" CreationDate="2016-05-23T20:28:01.993" Score="3" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is an old (2001) Volvo V70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I experienced intermittent failures of the brake lights, and it led my mechanic to exchange the break pedal switch. This seemed to work fine for some months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, now my brake lights have completely failed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously we checked all the involved fuses and the issue is not here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my mechanic suspects it might (or &quot;should&quot;, he says) come from the big black box located in the trunk, near the rear left wheel. It contains a number of fuses, but also a lot of electronic components (relays?) which are not described at all in the vehicle documentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way to identify which of these components might be responsible for the brake lights failing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10754" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T20:59:26.783" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T21:00:30.150" Title="Brake lights no longer work on a Volvo V70" Tags="|brakes|lights|volvo|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T20:31:57.213" Score="9" ViewCount="18297" Body="&lt;p&gt;This involves a company truck, 08 Chevy Silverado. I am not a mechanic or DIY nor do I play one on TV. The problem I am having is that every 2 or 3 months this truck will not start and completely looses power until it sits for several hours then will crank as if there was not a problem. We replaced the battery after the first time thinking this was the issue and worked fine for about 3 months then the problem occurred again. We tested the new battery (meter test and cell test) which tested like a new battery should. The alternator also showed that it was charging the battery. All of the connections are clean of corrosion and tight. All of the fuses are good. This has been on going for about 10 months now and with the latest episode, we brought it to the local dealership service department. They were able to repeat the problem but unable to determine what is causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are signs that this is about happen such as a couple of days before the truck may hesitate just slightly before cranking. Next sign is as soon as someone turns the key off the radio and lights that usually stay on until you open the door goes off and the truck may not crank on the first try after this incident. This last one usually means that a few cranks later that it will not start and has totally lost power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal culprits for power issues seem to be working properly. Any suggestions on what the problem could be? Could this be a computer or sensor problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17549" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T04:53:39.903" Title="No power but battery, alternator, and connection are good" Tags="|electrical|starting|chevrolet|power|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29999" CreationDate="2016-05-23T20:58:53.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to chase the wiring directly rather than trying to identify all the parts of a system your mechanic did not even identify for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, find an electrical diagram for the car online. A Google search for 2001 volvo v70 wiring diagram turned up many images of wiring diagrams that should be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To trace this back, start at the lights themselves. I suspect the bulbs are fine, but best to be thorough and methodical, you never know. With a rod pressed against the seat and the brake pedal to keep it depressed, see if there is voltage at the bulb bases. (You will probably want to protect the seat with a wood 2x4 or something similar to spread the load rather than press it directly into the seat)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't any voltage present, use the diagram to tell you where to look next. I'm guessing here but I suspect the fuse for this circuit is as close to the battery as they designers could make it, so it's probably the foot switch. The idea is to divide and conquer. The flow of power to the brake lights is a chain, and any break in the chain will cause them to fail. You are looking for that break. The diagram is your map to the entire chain, from the battery to the brake lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If perhaps this box in the trunk is actually in that chain somewhere, the diagram will tell you where power comes into that box, and where it comes out to go to the brake lights. Check the input and output to see if it is the box. If it is, then you will need to identify what it is so you can determine how it works. There is almost certainly a part number molded into the plastic case that can be Googled, or, your local Volvo dealer may be able to identify it for you from the part number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T20:58:53.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29979" CreationDate="2016-05-23T21:27:37.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you are getting the vibration is, the engine should idle at around 800rpm. Down at 500rpm vibration will be a lot more pronounced. You shouldn't get any vibration up at 1000+rpm. I've read reports on other sites people feel it clears up around there. Even at 800rpm there will be a slight vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking you &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; had a vacuum leak at the intake before it popped off, which allowed your idle level to drop drastically after you did your fix. Due to this, you need to probably do an idle relearn, plus clean the IAC and MAP sensor. Here are some procedures from what I've learned today (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/924567-idle-relearn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from this site&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Map sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplugged battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnected the map sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whacked on the plug outlet to clear out any debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed with compressed air to clean out any debris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plugged back sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensured there was a good connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zip tied it around the plug horizontally and vertically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IAC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplugged the sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unscrewed bolts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tilted over the IAC to get a good view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sprayed carb cleaned into the IAC liberally (unfortunately I was not able to get out all of the black build up) the canal on the side looked cleaned but in the middle chamber there was still some black markings along the side walls, I was afraid of using a Q-tip or brush because it might of left some bristles in there causing more troubles reinstalled IAC with a thin layer of oil reconnected the sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reconnected the battery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let it idle for about 15 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Took it for a drive and NEVER COASTED only downshifted through all the gears until 2nd where I preceded to wait till 1k before I clutched in and braked completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, this was copied directly from the forum, the advice appears sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T21:40:57.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29980" CreationDate="2016-05-23T22:02:02.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely a Bad ignition switch (lower steering column), replace it, sometimes it burns the big 12v wires at the switch and you have to repair the wire ends with new ones or get a ignition switch repair pigtail and splice it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2d5qy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2d5qy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T22:02:02.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29960" CreationDate="2016-05-23T22:06:52.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One sure way to test if it is the piston oil control rings is to put the vehicle in low gear and accelerate to 4,000 rpm, let off the gas quick and look in the rear view, when you decelerate with bad oil rings it will smoke much worse than on acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T22:06:52.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29929" CreationDate="2016-05-23T22:10:59.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That'll work metal to metal - but be careful that you don't get it on any rubber, as the rubber may swell (depends on the type of rubber, of course, but I'd play safe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T22:10:59.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27503" CreationDate="2016-05-23T22:18:54.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is about ~1,5 to max. 3 kPA (0,2-0,45 PSI) for a new filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17552" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T22:18:54.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T00:09:35.707" Score="3" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just rebuilt most of a 2 stroke jet boat. (if you need / want any boat details, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29411/starting-a-2-stroke-jet-boat-after-several-years?lq=1&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, she fired right up no problem, today she won't even turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some basic troubleshooting, I determined that I blew the fuse in the CDI box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irpv4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irpv4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pacific 10AMP&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to 5 stores trying to find this fuse without any luck, also searched for a similar looking one online for quite some time. The only markings on the fuse is, &quot;Pacific 10A&quot;. I bought some generic 10 amp fuses in case I get desperate, but I don't want to put these in and cause more problems. If someone could help me determine what type of fuse this is, I would feel much more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me locate this fuse, or a comparable one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping that the fuse just blew because it was so old, but I know that is pretty unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a loose connection to the boats horn, could this have caused my issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T03:08:30.370" Title="Replacing a boat's blown CDI fuse" Tags="|electrical|fuse|boat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T03:22:27.883" Score="2" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Chevy Blazer 4.3 liter I was driving down the road coming home when I went to apply the brakes the pedal went to the floor but I did not slow down nor stop I had to use a hill in order to stop and it wasn't 5 mins ago when they worked just fine. the next day I checked brake fluid and it was full and I have plenty of brake pads not crystallized what would cause my vehicle not to be able to stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17555" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T02:18:47.500" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T17:21:43.150" Title="Brakes don't work" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|brake-fluid|master-cylinder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30010" CreationDate="2016-05-24T04:17:39.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to bleed the brakes, you will have an air pocket in the system.&#xA;As you stand on the pedal, the system is compressing the air pocket instead of the fluid, hence the brakes won't actuate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1495/how-to-bleed-brakes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;popular mechanics article&lt;/a&gt; on how you can do this yourself, or you can take it to a mechanic and they can do it pretty quickly and cheaply for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should also make you want to check the condition of the brake lines and master cylinder. If you haven't changed the brake fluid in a while, it might mean that there is a leak somewhere that is letting air in to the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T04:17:39.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30010" CreationDate="2016-05-24T04:17:48.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your brake pedal went to the floor it means that there was not enough hydraulic pressure to apply the brake. If they were working fine before and never felt squishy then your master cylinder has probably gone out and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you may have a lot of air in the lines, enough that the pressure applied by the brake was not enough to stop the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it isn't safe to drive until you know that the brakes are functioning properly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T04:27:48.230" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T04:27:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30017" CreationDate="2016-05-24T04:19:38.717" Score="8" ViewCount="4893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen many used Nissan Leafs being offered for a very low cost (as little as $6000 as of 2016), but I'm concerned about the lifetime left in the batteries of those cars. Nissan says that they will replace the whole set for $5499, but I don't trust that they will always do that, so I would rather be able to do this by myself using commodity parts, just in case Nissan change their mind. I know that this is possible on the Toyota Prius. Is there any resource on how to replace/rebuild the batteries in the Nissan Leaf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T12:21:19.637" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T06:16:11.193" Title="Is it possible to rebuild the batteries of the Nissan Leaf?" Tags="|battery|nissan|electric-vehicle|leaf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T04:41:45.720" Score="2" ViewCount="3519" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problems started when we found out that my car had no dim lights even though the bulbs and fuses seemed to be perfectly fine, and so were my brights. So the mechanic somehow &quot;jumped&quot; my dim lights through my brights and managed to get both working. We discovered a few days ago that my passenger light was out, and upon looking at it found that the wiring shorted and actually melted parts of my headlight assembly. The lights on the driver side (dim and bright) both still work fine. From what I'm reading online it sounds like it could be an issue with a relay, but my knowledge of cars is extremely basic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Could someone please tell me if this sounds like a relay or if it is more likely to be something else?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17557" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T06:18:01.297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T20:55:14.510" Title="Issues with 2003 Ford Focus headlights" Tags="|ford|headlight|focus|relay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30013" CreationDate="2016-05-24T06:36:10.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can be. You'll probably need to find a company that refurbishes batteries, there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hybridbatteryrebuild.com.au/contact-us/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one that I know of in Australia&lt;/a&gt; so I'd say (i.e. assume) that there would be services in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a bit handy with electrical work, I've seen some people set up arrays of smaller lithiums to achieve the desired outputs for EV applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not going to be &quot;cheap cheap&quot; regardless of what you do, but it can save you some money to fix up an older EV as opposed to buy new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T06:36:10.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2016-05-24T07:27:56.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuel Injection might be faulty check Air Filter element also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17560" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T07:27:56.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T07:37:34.870" Score="2" ViewCount="5009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it mentioned that some people should port their wastegate on their turbocharged vehicles. Usually, this seems to be recommended in some situations where the car is overboosting past the boost limit, but it is unclear to me if careful tuning or other solutions could also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does porting the wastegate entail and what conditions would I want to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2017-02-28T06:58:30.527" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T06:58:30.527" Title="What exactly is porting a wastegate and what situations would I want to do it in?" Tags="|turbocharger|porting|waste-gate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30019" CreationDate="2016-05-24T08:32:07.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Porting your wastegate allows increased flow rates through the gate itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gate is a little metal flap (operated by a vacuum operated actuator) that covers a small hole in the rear of the turbo housing hot-side (exhaust side).. The flap usually extends past the diameter of the gate port/hole so that no air can leak. When the flap opens, it allows boost pressure to escape, and the turbo doesn't over-boost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Porting the wastegate entails using a dremel (or similar) to increase the diameter of that port. Usually, you mill enough material out so that the stock flapper still can cover the hole completely. Sometimes, people upgrade that also when going larger (although at this stage you'd be looking at an external gate - this means that the internal gate hole is sealed shut, and a separate wastegate is attached to the exhaust manifold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you'd be wanting to port the gate out when you're experiencing 'wastegate creep'. This means that the exhaust flow is exceeding the flow capacity of the wastegate, allowing for an uncontrolled rise in boost pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you won't experience this on a stock turbo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T08:32:07.757" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29401" CreationDate="2016-05-24T11:15:35.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mechanic looked at it and determined the steering lock was the problem. He replaced it and it works now. I don't know what exactly was wrong and how a bad steering lock caused all that. I don't know what caused it. I remember the driver was fidgeting trying to get it started. Could trying to turn the key in a certain way do it? I remember this happened before but it didn't stay like that (started it up after waiting a while) and both times the same person was in the driver seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17166" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T11:15:35.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T11:41:31.963" Score="4" ViewCount="10241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have water coming out of a pipe under my 2010 Renault Grand Scenic.  There is not a smell to it. The water is coming from the passenger side and it is dripping from a wee rubber pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17564" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T13:28:11.357" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T13:28:11.357" Title="What is this odorless water dripping from passenger side of car?" Tags="|ac|water-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-24T17:12:04.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30008" CreationDate="2016-05-24T12:27:45.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's what's known as a 'barrel fuse' or 'cartridge fuse' - You should be able to get them at any decent electrical supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuse will have blown because it was overloaded - and the most likely cause of this is a short circuit. Before replacing the fuse, try to identify the source of the short. The loose connection you mention is a good place to start, fix that first, and check as many of the other circuits run off the same fuse as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, when you see cartridge fuses in an automotive application, it's an older vehicle, and you often see a lot of stuff running off the same fuse - if this is the case with your boat, it might be worth splitting some of the circuits off to new fuses - this is safer, and makes troubleshooting much easier. You can get aftermarket fuseboxes that take modern blade-type fuses, including waterproof ones for damp environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T12:27:45.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30008" CreationDate="2016-05-24T12:31:02.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuses have 3 different parameters; current rating, voltage rating and physical size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physical size is self explanatory, it just has to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current rating is also rather self explanatory. The fuse protects the circuit against high current. If the current rating is exceeded the fuse blows. A fuse should always be replaced with another fuse with the same rating, never bigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voltage rating is the most confusing one and commonly overlooked. When the fuse blows it has to isolate some voltage. That isolation guarantees that the fuse won't arc over after the fuse is blown. The voltage rating of the fuse just has to exceed the voltage rating system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as all 3 parameters are met, any fuse can be installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose connections don't blow fuses. Shorted connections do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T12:31:02.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:09:51.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the manual says 87 octane (or higher), that is all you need to run, 87 octane gas. The engine is designed to run at that octane rating optimally. You can run higher octane gasoline, but all you are doing is spending money you don't need to spend. My daughters Acura TL requires 93 octane fuel and running less impacts performance and can ping. My Ecoboost twin turbo is designed for 87 octane fuel and runs perfect all day long as it was designed to run on 87 Octane. Towing a camper makes no difference as the computer compensates. Higher octane for towing would help but isn't necessary ass the computer compensates for the octane fuel used. You can go higher, but shouldn't go lower than the minimum required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunoco used to have a pump with five grades of fuel years ago all the way down to 85 octane (could blend 85, 87, 89, 91 and 93 at the pump). Sunoco 85 Octane would be used only for low compression engines or at the time, people trying to save some money as it was the least expensive fuel then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a good grade 87 octane fuel and save your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17566" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T13:09:51.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30024" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:24:39.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of having answers for questions, I agree with the comments, and believe this is just condensation coming from the air conditioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know how water collects on the outside of a cold glass when its warm outside?  The same thing happens on the cold coil inside your AC system.  Some cars just have a hole in the firewall that the water drains out of, and others, like your car, have a little rubber drain tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Critical fluids in the car have a color and normally have some smell.  A clear, odorless liquid can really only be water and is of no concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T13:24:39.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30033" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:25:53.203" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an european Audi 80 B2 with the following parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Type: Audi 80 B2 1.6 GL Diesel&#xA;Capacity: 1588cc&#xA;Performance: 40kw&#xA;Year: 1982&#xA;Motor code: CR&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a new set of shock absorbers for the car. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gabriel.com/product-search/light-vehicle/?yr=1982&amp;amp;make=Audi&amp;amp;model=4000&amp;amp;engine=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; USA made absorbers will fit Audi 4000 from 1982 (the american export of the Audi 80). Are they fit on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a good quality shock absorber for the car which not breaking the bank (eg. set of 4 will be no more than the price of the car...) and giving me good stability on rough roads and in turns for maximum comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17567" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:31:46.233" Title="Can I fit Audi 4000 compatible shock absorbers onto my Audi 80 B2 1.6D?" Tags="|audi|shock-absorber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30010" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:33:40.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have fluid in the brake reservoir, and have no pedal, you have a failed master cylinder. The piston that moves when you step on the brake pedal has o-ring seals that if they fail, can allow fluid to pass by them and not apply pressure to the brakes. All brake systems today have a dual circuit system where if you loss pressure to a wheel (caliper, wheel cylinder, etc), you will still have brakes in the other circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds from your description that you had no brakes and after pumping it, they came back. That is classic master cylinder failure where the o-ring seals are failing and fluid moves past them and pumping brings back pressure. Take it to a competent service station and have the master cylinder checked or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17566" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T13:33:40.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21242" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:46:54.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated prior, if the rotors weren't machined or lightly surfaced when the pads were changed, that will give you a spongy feel as you are not stopping as effectively and takes more effort to slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With new rotors and pads, the machine marks on the rotors help to break in the rotors and pads together. Once broken in, they will work well as they wear together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my rotors have no runout (warping) when I change pads, I will use an abrasive disk on the rotor to scuff and break the shine on both sides. Do not take any material off. The rough surface will help mate and break in the pads. After changing them, I take the car out on a short run and run it hard, then stop fully hard at least a half dozen or more times. This helps the break in... while you may initially smell the pads when heated, that will go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17566" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T13:46:54.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30029" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:31:46.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool car! The shock absorbers for an 1982 &lt;em&gt;Audi 4000&lt;/em&gt; should fit an 1982 &lt;em&gt;Audi 80&lt;/em&gt; - the 4000 is pretty much an 80 with some slight body changes for the US market (I believe bumpers, trims and lights). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However do take a look at the year closely, if I remember correctly there was an updated model in production between 1984 and 1986. The platform is still considered B2, but there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be some slight suspension differences, not entirely sure about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:31:46.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30015" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:11:06.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might not be an answer but rather a suggestion. I'll explain a few things since you say you have limited knowledge of vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jumping a circuit is never something you should do. Dims and High beams are two different amperages. They both run on 12v, but the actual amount of power is different. When you &quot;Jump&quot; a circuit and combine them  like that, you're not only mixing amperage, but you're also doubling the load of that circuit. Eventually the wires, relays, or fuses will be overloaded and something is going to break. If you're mechanic doesn't have a wiring diagram in front of him, he has no idea how the circuit works and what he should be fixing. If they are computer controlled you run the risk of damaging the ECU/ECM. To me this sounds like you you have a short in the circuit somewhere. The easiest way you could track this down would be to get a multimeter and test for continuity between the lights and steering column. You'll have to then find out WHAT exactly is causing the issue. Those relays aren't cheap and unless you have a good deal of electrical knowledge they're difficult to test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iwould highly suggest taking it to a electrical shop or the dealership, because they'll charge you $90 for diagnosis and you can fix it yourself once they tell you what it is. If you want to be adventerous you can try and track it down yourself. www.eautorepair.com has wiring diagrams and it dosen't take too long to figure out how to read them. Lots of hardware stores sell test lights and multimeters as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:11:06.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30068" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:16:10.730" Score="2" ViewCount="6327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem in My Car (Opel Corsa-c 2006), The Ventilation fan (Blower fan) stopped working, What was happen the fan was working fine, I turned on the car while the fan was on the last speed, it works fine and stopped after 2 seconds&#xA;I checked the fuse box, there is no problem found&#xA;Thanks and sorry for my English&#xA;please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11855" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:08:38.433" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:31:06.747" Title="Ventilation fan (blower fan) stopped working" Tags="|opel|fan|corsa|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:47:52.937" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in buying a 2004 Volvo S60. The guy selling the car says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;It won't start. When you try to start it. its as if the battery was bad, but it's not&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what that means? What could be the problem? He's selling it for $750 but am trying to get it for less than $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17569" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:15:04.747" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T20:53:04.173" Title="2004 Volvo S60 starting issue" Tags="|engine|battery|starting|car|volvo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30042" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:10:13.533" Score="20" ViewCount="7218" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;I was watching a show on the Velocity network about truck modifications, and I saw the following closeup of the trucks master cylinder and booster.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PmtX6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PmtX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Truck Master Cylinder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is why the designers put the loops in the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder? Everything on a car is there for a reason. I thought this might be for vibration, to give the lines some flex, but both ends of the line are secured to the same rigid body, so how much flex would you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are these loops in the brake lines coming from the master cylinder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T18:15:03.590" Title="What are these loops in the brake line for?" Tags="|brakes|truck|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:19:18.393" Score="2" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a higher cc (displacement) bike with 5 speed transmission or a lower cc (displacement) bike with 6 speed transmission have higher top speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Yamaha R15 (150cc, 6-speed transmission) v/s TVS Apache RTR 200(200cc, 5-speed transmission)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which one would be have a higher top speed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17570" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:27:51.340" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:43:02.163" Title="Which motorcycle engine and transmission configuration would have a higher top speed?" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|power|yamaha|tvr|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-24T23:30:00.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:26:35.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too many other variables such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wind resistance at top speed of the vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loss of power through the various components from the engine to the rear wheel&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gear ratios&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can get some of this information, such as gear ratios, but the other components necessary are beyond our reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe your question can truly be answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T17:26:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:30:20.967" Score="2" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have minor scratching and smearing on the front skirt of my car which is the plastic part below the bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to repair this without replacing the whole skirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows the location:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIjmA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIjmA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastEditorUserId="10873" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:34:26.537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:38:19.580" Title="Minor scratching on plastic fender/skirt" Tags="|paint-scratches|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30138" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:30:47.530" Score="3" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I got a new motorcycle the truck has been sitting around, to the point that it has become alive with moss (we get a lot of rain and flexible temps, the truck is usually moist inside).  I fired her up one day to do something and noticed that the brakes were extremely hard to push, so I just parked her and did whatever.  The next day I noticed the battery was dead because the pedal had stuck in a position which engaged the brake lights.  Just to note I've done no mechanical work other than an oil change in the last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a few tests and noticed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake stays down after being pressed.  The brakes themselves are still engaged at this point and the lights are on.  It's not a strong braking, but enough to know that you are indeed braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I push in the clutch and it returns up, the brake pedal returns with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brake pedal itself is very hard to push, as though it engages a bit then hits a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the brake pedal is pushed a loud air noise can be heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the engine on for a while does not help this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the engine off and my foot on the brake pedal, it will go down a slight bit when the engine is turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's it.  According to the internet it's either a vacuum leak or my brake booster is borked.  I'm guessing the latter since the hose going to the booster looks great and the air sound coming from around the pedal is new, I think.  However what I think is irrelevant since I'm not actually a mechanic, so I'm asking the internet.  God have mercy on my soul...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Results of tests in comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The engine does not do anything different when pressing or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I clamped the airhose and found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I pressed, no air noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the parking brake was off, the pedal would fully return, it would not when the parking brake was on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pedal would not depress very far, and was very hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I removed the clamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pedal went all the way down like normal for a few pumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same behavior as previously found, air noise came back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will go with Bens analysis and get a new booster in a week unless I hear otherwise.  If you want to make it official I'll accept your answer as the correct one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Ben was correct, it was a failing brake booster.  I replaced the booster with a new one and it solved the issue.  I'm not sure what internally was failing in the booster and no longer have it so I can't check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16694" LastEditorUserId="16694" LastEditDate="2020-10-09T19:13:37.050" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T19:13:37.050" Title="1997 Ford Ranger brake pedal hard, air noise, not returning" Tags="|ford|brakes|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30037" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:50:25.897" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is about vibration. The master cylinder and brake booster are mounted to the firewall; the firewall flexes. They move up and down significantly as the body jerks up and down when driven over bumps. This solution is cheaper to implement than changes to the firewall. It would be challenging to build a firewall rigid enough to support that weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:39:29.660" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:39:29.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29880" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:42:19.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a brass brush and kerosene on my chains (both bicycle and motorcycle). it works great and i have never had a problem. i have read that WD40 is inadvisable on o-ring chains, as it can displace the lubrication behind the o-rings. not sure how accurate that is. My neighbor cleans his chain with WD40, and it hasn't flown off the bike while running yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17571" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:42:19.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:51:02.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question as asked has no real answer, so let me explain a few topics that will point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of gears has no effect on top speed.  The ratio of each gear is the important part.  You could conceivably have a 3-speed transmission with a higher top speed (for a given RPM) than a 7-speed transmission.  Having more gears can give you better acceleration and handling because you can keep the engine in the &quot;power band&quot; more easily.  Engines can have a narrow range (power band) where they make the most efficient power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger engine could produce more power, and should have a higher top speed with all else being equal - however the gear ratios of their transmissions are almost certainly not going to be equal, so again, that's what we &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are asking about two motorcycles with small engines, wind resistance will probably be the biggest factor in top speed.  You're not going to make it to either vehicle's theoretical top speed (redline RPM * final gear ratio).  The larger engine &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be more powerful, and &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; allow you to eke out a higher speed, but this is just a guess.  There's also many cases of a smaller engine having more power than a larger one, so that adds another wrinkle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T22:43:02.163" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:43:02.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:56:47.117" Score="0" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a quart to much oil in my Toyota 4 runner 2001. Then I went for a road trip! I noticed oil coming out the back of my car! And now I am hearing a noise! Ut oh!! Did I ruin my engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:33:14.753" Title="A quart to much oil in my Toyota 4 runner 2001" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-24T20:00:14.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30062" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:13:46.870" Score="7" ViewCount="20285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started wondering today, how does one calculate the moving velocity of a vehicle if they change their tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are a lot of companies that make the gauges for tuners that change wheels, but what is the math involved in this? If for instance I wanted to manually set my speedometer or tune the speedometer myself, what exactly what you have to take into account and how would you calculate everything correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find this appropriate for the mathematics SE, so I posted it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T16:04:36.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:04:36.267" Title="Calculating actual speed of vehicle based on wheel size?" Tags="|tires|speedometer|wheel-speed-sensor|mathematics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30045" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:33:14.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual Oil, out of the exhaust pipe ?  If the oil has gone though the intake manifold (re-breather route) you run the risk of seizing or stalling as the piston tries to compress it, but before that it will run very smoky and rough.&#xA;The overfill risk is normally from whipping the oil, so that it foams and even possibly emulsifies, rendering it hard to pump and effectively deliver.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out where the oil is coming from first. Then work out where the noise is coming from, and the nature of the noise. If the engine seized, even momentarily you have possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've pulled a big end and it is stretched, you may &quot;throw a rod&quot; soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have piston/connecting rod damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get someone to listen to it, and drain some oil if you have not already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be that bad, Toyotas will take a bit of abuse, but it sounds like you put in &quot;a lot&quot; of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:33:14.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:46:46.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the other answers, it does happen that transmissions are not fully rebuilt. There are degrees of cost/effort. It is very common for parts to be re-used. Planetary gears, solenoids are often re-used. &quot;Steels&quot;/clutch pack discs are replaced. The &quot;hard parts&quot; (gears) may add thousands to the cost but will reduce noise considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9678" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:46:46.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:13:22.390" Score="3" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a GSXR 600, and the live side of a circuit touched the frame and blew a 30A fuse. I changed the fuse and now I have no power. Does any one now why? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17574" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T21:46:35.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T21:46:35.817" Title="Blown fuse on K1 GSXR 600. Fuse replaced, but still no power" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|fuse|gsxr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30037" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:21:04.993" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are often times referred to as service loops. Their purpose is to allow some flexibility in the event the master cylinder has to be replaced, or a fitting needs to be repaired. It makes it easier to align the fittings without crossthreading them. AS @Fred Wilson has stated there is flexing. The brakelines will typically be anchored to the frame. The master cylinder is mounted to the body. The body is mounted to the frame via rubber body bushings. The bushings isolate the body from engine and road vibration. This allows the whole body to move, which could stress the lines if they where run straight to the mastercylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:21:04.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30053" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:22:08.467" Score="4" ViewCount="67747" Body="&lt;p&gt;While prepping for a drive tomorrow I noticed the far side front wheel of my car has one stud out of five that is somehow loose. All other four studs are secured and tightened. By &quot;somehow&quot; I mean that the stud seems to be turning along with its lug nut, although it requires some force to be turned (can't turn it with fingers, but with a cross it does turns easily). I'm not trying to tighten it more as I don't want the thread to possibly give in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2007 Civic Type-R Euro (FN2) with stock alloys (5x114.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'll have to drive a couple thousand kms tomorrow at highway speeds, I'd like to know if I'll be safe driving at 110~130kph for an extended duration. Additionally, is there any precaution I should take to be more safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T20:28:39.843" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:17:03.490" Title="Driving a car with four out of five studs tight on one wheel" Tags="|wheels|safety|damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:26:11.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're only considering top speed and not acceleration then the number of gears don't matter. The only thing that matters for top speed is aerodynamics and the power to overcome wind resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17576" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:26:11.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:28:43.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one is going to tell that driving with a missing lug nut for huge distances at highway speeds is a good idea.  If the question was &quot;can I drive to the shop like this&quot;, you might get some people to capitulate, but you're talking about a cross-country journey.  I doubt you car would pass a safety inspection without all the lugs, so you shouldn't take a huge trip like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:28:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18706" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:29:36.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely just steam cleaned the internals for a brief stint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for good measure, here's what happens when you run the full output of your garden hose through a small car engine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSSSosql1zc#t=1m5s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSSSosql1zc#t=1m5s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:29:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:34:29.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll be good enough to drive to the nearest tire shop, and ask them to sort it. Shouldn't be expensive/time consuming&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:34:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30056" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Made from 1977 to 1994, this was a mid-size and compact car with many variations over it's life. Originally a luxury car in the 1930's the name became synonymous with affordable cars. The LeBaron was the least expensive model made by Chrysler for many years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All information was found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LeBaron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LeBaron&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30057" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" Score="0" Body="A Chrysler product from 1977 to 1994.  Apply this tag to any question or answer about this Chrysler model. " OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:39:12.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:45:54.353" Score="4" ViewCount="9979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1999 F250-SD XLT 4×4 that the coil just popped out of the head what would cause that? I've not done anything to it yet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T18:21:04.793" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:21:04.793" Title="Coil popped out of head" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|ignition-coil|f-250|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2016-05-24T20:50:18.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit this puddle at 60+ MPH. I have the intake above the roof now, as well as some plastic sleds screwed underneath, but I didn't at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initally the distributor got wet which caused some misfiring until I took it off and dried it out; now I've coated it with silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No permanent damage has resulted; though I know what this looks like when it's dry so I can verify there aren't any rocks or potholes in it. Those are more likely to do damage to your car than the water will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA7DF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA7DF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mazda in Puddle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:50:18.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:03:26.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The thirty amp fuse is your main fuse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure we are speaking using the same nomenclature, K1 is referring to model year 2001 in my verbiage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 30 amp fuse supplies all the power to your fuse block with various 5, 10 and 20 amp fuses populated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quite a few hours on this bike and have seen a scenario that you are describing.  Here are some recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your 30 amp fuse for continuity with a multimeter.  Sometimes they come out of the box bad.  Rare but possible&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your starter circuit fuse under the seat.  When you say 'no power' does that mean headlights and everything or no power to turn the starter.  Is it a global 'lights out' across the board?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check all of your lower amperage fuses.  Some of them might have been taking out when the incident occurred.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:03:26.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21791" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:08:31.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puddles may hide potholes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my main concern when I drive over a puddle. You will never know before you hit a puddle if it has a huge hole. I bent a rim like that doing 50Km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may hydroplane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you can predict by the speed you are doing. Mind that the deeper is the puddle the lower the hydroplaning speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, there is little damage that you may expect to ever happen to you car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:08:31.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30046" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:10:19.127" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing your car can sense is the number of turns of some part of the drive train. In the old days it was a gear right off the transmission, and today it's an electronic sensor in the transmission or somewhere in the drive train near the wheels. It's going to be a sensor that can determine how quickly the wheels are rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to calculate  speed is the distance traveled divided by the time it took to travel that distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeF8K.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeF8K.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Table of calculating speed as a function of time and distance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that changes when you change the tire size is the distance traveled. So, for every revolution of the tire, you travel a distance equal to the circumference of the circle that is the tread of the tire. (Assuming the tire is not slipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circumference (C) of the tire is calculated by C=2πr (2 times pi times the radius of the tire). So the distance from the center of the wheel to the outside edge of the tire, times 2, times pi (3.14159). Do this calculation for both the old and the new tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the percentage change in the speedometer, take the difference between the old and new distance, divide by the original distance, and multiply the result by 100. This will give you the percentage speed change from one tire to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:10:19.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:28:57.477" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem it was not getting gas to the carb there is no fuel pump it is gravity fed. mt trouble was a bad after fire selenoid this blocks gas to the carb until the key is on.  mine was stuck closed fixed that  ( look on u tube) and it started ok&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:28:57.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30069" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:38:32.033" Score="2" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know diagnostics can be prone to failure, but I want to know if this failure is correctly diagnosed, not if the diagnosis is in fact correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier my starter motor emitted a higher pitched noise than usual as my car started from cold, the sound was louder and sounded faster than usual, as if it was spinning freely, still my car started no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next 4 or 5 starts took longer than usual, the sound was also usual so it didn't call my attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the 6th start I heard a click sound (probably a relay) and absolutely no sound is heard from the starter motor. The car didn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is fine and so are all other electrical components, so is it safe to assume that the issue is coming from the starter motor and replacement of that single part is probably the best route of action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a sound diagnosis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T02:12:56.840" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:12:56.840" Title="Is this diagnostic correct?" Tags="|starting|starter|gasoline|cold-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:55:13.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you bring your vehicle to your local garage to double check your torque specs for your wheel lugs. They probably will not charge you for this; since it takes only five minutes.  It is especially important to get this checked if your driving the car on a road trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17578" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T05:25:08.120" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T05:25:08.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30035" CreationDate="2016-05-24T22:03:16.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to call local auto parts to see if they sell a resistor block for your vehicle. Many cars will run on high speed only with a blown resistor block for the fan speed control...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17578" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:03:16.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30064" CreationDate="2016-05-24T22:13:09.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like starter gear windingout and then overheating, I would replace the starter. These sound like typical symptoms...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17578" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:13:09.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30035" CreationDate="2016-05-24T22:31:06.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blower motor should have two wires, one is a ground fed by a mechanical or solid state resister/HVAC computer. The other is fused power, this may or may not have a relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for power on one wire and variable ground on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're missing power check your fuses again you may have missed one. If it has a relay try swapping it with another relay in the fuse block. If the fuses are OK you're going to have to inspect the wiring harness from the blower motor to whichever fuse block it pulls power from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're missing ground, the resister is usually the first place to look. You may have to find wiring diagrams for this part, but it should be pretty straight forward. The switch or control unit supplies ground to the resister and then from the resister to the blower motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have both power and ground at the blower motor connector replace the blower motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:31:06.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30064" CreationDate="2016-05-24T22:46:15.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be the starter but you'd want to check for battery voltage at the B terminal on the starter and check that the circuit on the S terminal is OK first. When checking the S terminal have someone turn the key to the crank position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it would be a good idea to check that the starter is grounded properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XM7Lg.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XM7Lg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have power on both terminals and the starter does nothing then you can replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:46:15.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25653" CreationDate="2016-05-25T00:31:00.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With trucks whether they are tandem trailer (A or B trains depending on the size of trailers) or not have air brakes. Sometimes they develop leaks in the air lines. When the pressure drops below a certain value the trailer brakes lock up suddenly. I notice you didn't mention smoke from the front trailer. I suspect it was normal stop but the rear trailer had catastrophic air pressure loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air brakes have 2 air line each- one to apply the brakes one to release. The air pressure works against a spring in the brake cylinder so when the air pressure dumps the the brakes lock up. If massive air loss happens at highway speed the brakes lock up and the brake lights do not activate. Anybody who tailgates at this moment is seriously injured or dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is strong possibility of tire failure where the tire explodes violently&#xA;because unlike car tires which are inflated to 32 psi-Truck tires 120 psi and are more numerous. This is one reason why cars should keep a respectable distance from trucks. In most jurisdictions it is illegal to follow a commercial vehicle closer than 30 meters (approx 100 ft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When empty a truck can stop a lot faster than car can. Basically truck brakes are much bigger and more numerous and a designed to stop a helluva lot of weight. In this scenario it is braking overkill and then some. Cars have smaller brakes and only 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:31:00.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T00:43:39.990" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boy, what a day I had. Roads were real slippery today in Texas and I skidded and lost control. Next thing you know, I'm in a ditch full of grass, dirt and rocks. I'm still amazed at how little damage the car sustained. Two tires busted and my exhust system was clogged with dirt and grass (cleaned it out) Now I have a problem with my radiator hoses and it's stumped me. No over heating, temp stays in the middle, fans kick on, etc...Only issue is that the hoses are not pressurized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper hose is hot but the lower one is cold. water pump works as I am getting heat, AC compressor works, everything is functioning but I'm just afraid that when I hit the highway it overheats! Are these cars normally like this...?? I have 3.9L IP edition &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17579" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:43:39.990" Title="Why is there no pressure in my 06 Chevy Impala...?" Tags="|coolant|radiator|overheating|pressure|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T00:54:26.837" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a golf 4 gti engine 2.0 for the year 2002,the problem is when i pour water in the container it does not hold water,instead it leaks i can't see where the water is leaking,all the pipes connected to the container do not show where exactly water comes from,i only find the water coming out at the bottom near the the belts,im very sory i dont know what these parts are called,please help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17580" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T05:25:12.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T05:25:12.200" Title="cooling system vw" Tags="|vw|coolant|cooling-system|water-leak|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T01:34:55.573" Score="2" ViewCount="18552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a fair bit of work done to my 1999 Subaru Legacy last week with the main fix/problem being a timing belt replacement. Additionally they replaced oil seals, 2 hose clamps, the radiator cap, the water pump and the thermostat. They also topped up my coolant, bleed the system and checked for any leaks at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I drove the car for the first time today after getting it fixed for around 6-7 minutes with the temperature gauge remaining normal but when I arrived home I noticed a constant stream of clear/light grey smoke coming from the hood. I then opened it and found the engine smoking at a moderate level predominantly from under where the cylinders are, this lasted around 4-5 minutes. My coolant levels have not dropped but there was a slight hissing coming from some of the hoses, leaving a minuscule amount of coolant (a few drops) on one of them which has still never happened to my car before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanics are very trustworthy and I was told to 'keep an eye on the water levels'. If anyone could help me diagnose the problem or come up with a solution that would be very much appreciated as I am currently too scared to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17581" LastEditorUserId="17581" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T01:49:24.043" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T19:37:50.173" Title="Engine smoking with normal temperature gauge" Tags="|coolant|overheating|leak|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2016-05-25T01:38:03.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally put my bf car krys into washing machine and washed it. We open it and used blower to dry it up and it works again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T01:38:03.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:13:27.013" Score="2" ViewCount="22623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just having my first auto transmission car, with press to start button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I start the car&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &quot;press to start&quot; button to turn on engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move gear from &quot;P&quot; to &quot;R&quot; (Or &quot;D&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push down hand brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, is this the correct way to stop the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I stop the car (1)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move gear from &quot;D&quot; (or &quot;R&quot;) to &quot;P&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &quot;press to start&quot; button to stop the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull up hand brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, should I stop the car in the following way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I stop the car (2)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &quot;press to start&quot; button to stop the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move gear from &quot;D&quot; (or &quot;R&quot;) to &quot;P&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull up hand brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My confusion is on step 2 &amp;amp; 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move gear from &quot;D&quot; (or &quot;R&quot;) to &quot;P&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &quot;press to start&quot; button to stop the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure which is the correct order. Does it matter, or do any of these methods cause mechanical damage or excessive wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6484" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T16:05:01.303" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:56:39.480" Title="Proper way to stop auto transmission car" Tags="|brakes|automatic-transmission|parking|stopping|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30037" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:21:44.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it is a modified truck, obviously new brake lines and an old Master Cylinder, the answer is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truck modifier purchased standard-length brake lines, and used the loops to take up excess length, rather than cut off the flared ends and re-flare them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know this? I've done it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:21:44.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21242" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:24:05.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brakes are always spongy, it is air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brakes are only spongy when hot, it is moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:24:05.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28342" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:37:21.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor, or another sensor (or the connection to that sensor), something that tells the controls what RPM the engine is running at. I'm not familiar with this engine to advise any further, but pulling codes might point you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:37:21.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:42:13.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not have a choice. On many &quot;button cars&quot; you cannot just kill the engine while the transmission is still in gear. This is a safety feature to prevent you from bumping it and turning off the engine on the highway by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really don't need to change how you stopped the car from when you had keys, just push the button instead of turning the key. Hence, your sequence could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the transmission in &quot;P&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the parking brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the button to stop the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the steps are not critical as far as when you apply the parking brake, etc, but the keys are you want to stop the car with the brake, then put it park to prevent anything from rolling, apply the extra safety of the parking brake, then kill the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:42:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:43:21.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is fully stopped then either way is fine. Neither will cause damage to your car. I however would recommend getting into the habit putting it into park first then cutting the engine because if you cut the engine first you may forget to put it in park later. If it is still in drive the car could potentially roll away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:43:21.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30075" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:56:17.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not have a leak in your cooling system, period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to get the car back to the mechanic if you have a coolant leak (albeit a small one). Over time you'll continue to lose coolant when the system pressurises and this is unacceptable as the car won't be reliable. Eventually the coolant will boil and the engine overheat when enough coolant has escaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be some oil from the repairs dropped on some hot parts of the engine and are contributing to the smoke or steam you are seeing. This would not be a problem if there is no slow leak, and the oil droplets will eventually burn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant is leaking onto hot parts of the engine then it will evaporate as steam and leave some residue behind. Coolant is mostly water, but also contains chemicals and dyes and over time you'll get a good idea if this is occurring by a visual inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be OK to drive, as long as you first check the engine oil level and make sure the coolant level is adequate before setting off and keep an eye on the gauges (as people should do all trips anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be driving to your mechanic though first thing, and explain your situation and have them address it. Keep in mind, it is absolutely not OK to have any leak in the coolant, no matter how small. You mechanic must address this if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T19:37:50.173" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T19:37:50.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:57:24.157" Score="4" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new Kymco 50cc scooter and all of a sudden it won't stay running. I found 3 hoses that go nowhere, is this normal? I think my ex cut the hoses...hope I'm wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KqsV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KqsV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17587" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T00:58:58.640" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T00:58:58.640" Title="Why did my Kymko 50cc Agility Scooter suddenly stop running?" Tags="|rough-idle|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30073" CreationDate="2016-05-25T03:03:28.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a first step to helping you answer your question it will be helpful to familiarize yourself with the cooling system. I would recommend this video as a short introduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J48JLu_L5cY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J48JLu_L5cY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several components that may fail in the cooling system. Here is a list of places where leaks can typically occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cracked radiator or reservoir&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad hose, or a loose connection between a hose and another component&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The radiator cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thermostat housing (if the gasket goes bad)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump (again if the gasket goes bad)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect each part thoroughly. Look for buildup of coolant as an indicator. Leaks will be worse when the engine gets warm because this causes the coolant to expand.  If you are having trouble finding the leak, I would recommend filling up the system, then warming the engine to make it easier to spot. You can also purchase fluorescent coolant dye to help you spot the leak easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, since you mention that you poured in water, I should mention that it is not good to run straight water in your cooling system.  It should be a 50/50 mix of water and coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:03:28.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T03:18:12.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not need do it one way or another, but the correct habit would be to stop and then Park the vehicle before turning it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Well, you're not doing any damage making the selection on the gearbox if the engine is running. You set the vehicle's controls appropraitely and the last thing you do is turn it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the opposite, do you put the car in drive, and then start it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars for decades have prevented the key being removed before Park is selected, again suggesting the first thing is to set the vehicle stationary before anything is done with turning off the engine/removing the key. This is somewhat lost in cars with remote keys, but the habits should be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:18:12.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30119" CreationDate="2016-05-25T04:23:58.633" Score="6" ViewCount="61817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a head gasket repair on my 1986 Kawasaki GPZ1000RX and now that everything is back together it starts up fine, idles fine, and revs high without a problem while in neutral, but when I put it into gear and started driving it it'll drive fine when giving it slight throttle, but when I get to the higher revs, or when I open the throttle too quickly it bogs down badly, and starts stuttering, but eventually starts revving higher and leveling out. It sounds as if my carbs were dirty or clogged but they were literally cleaned a day prior to me test driving the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I previously cleaned the carbs thoroughly before the second time cleaning it and it had sat for a while after that so I cleaned them again and found a little bit of dirt and stuff, and after trying it out after I cleaned it the bike bogs down a little less, but it's still noticeable, especially around the 6k range. The bike also dies whenever I press the choke in while it's warmed up, even slightly. I tried starting the bike with the choke and it'll work until it warms up a little bit, then anything after that kills it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This never happened before, only just now. Bike used to have perfect throttle response before taking everything apart, and now it just seems to be bogging down more. I'm sure I got the timing right, and everything is in order, just not sure on what could be causing the bogging down, unless a carb passage is blocked by a foreign particle or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side note:&lt;/strong&gt; the air box fittings are also a little warped and they don't fit completely over the carbs, this didn't affect the carbs much before but I'm.not sure if it could be affecting it now along with other things maybe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be great, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T10:36:38.847" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T22:45:53.123" Title="Motorcycle bogs down under load" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30036" CreationDate="2016-05-25T05:24:43.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like he bought a new battery to try to fix the issue but it did not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other causes (like fuses, wiring, a non-genuine immobilizer) but the next logical assumption is that the starter and/or starter solenoid have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T05:24:43.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30144" CreationDate="2016-05-25T10:24:26.373" Score="2" ViewCount="2355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to noticed fresh oil on the backside of my engine ( 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L ), right under the oil filter cooler recently, right after starting up the vehicle after not driving it for a few weeks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yVZFN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yVZFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking around, I saw what looks like oil leaking from inside the knock sensor, which is above and left of center to the oil filter / cooler assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BArCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BArCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if that fresh oil below the filter is attributable to the knock sensor leak, and how exactly could the knock sensor be leaking, and lastly how to fix the leak.  I assume that screw on the sensor is unscrewed to release the connector wire, and then the whole sensor is removed with a socket and ratchet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I fix this, or do I have to just replace the sensor?  How is the sensor built that it would leak like that from it's center?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen oil on the ground below the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a link provided by @HandyHowie it doesn't seem like it's the knock sensor.  If I zoom in on the OPSU in the first picture, it looks like oil is leaking from it also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lsafy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lsafy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think that would account for fresh oil to the bottom right of the oil filter cooler, since the OPSU is to it's left.  There had previously been a serious leak from the valve cover gasket, which had turned to stone and was basically almost not sealing at all, but I replaced that a few months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that leaves me with the possibility that the oil is actually coming from the base of the oil filter cooler it self?  Has anyone ever heard of something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT May 26th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take FredWilson's advice and just replace the oil cooler seal as it looks pretty simple.  Here's the instructions from the WSM, maybe it'll help someone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rprNv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rprNv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T17:19:31.653" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T17:19:31.653" Title="Oil Leaking in Back of Engine: Fresh oil under the oil filter cooler" Tags="|oil-leak|oil-pressure-sensor|knock-sensor|oil-cooler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30088" CreationDate="2016-05-25T10:58:32.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds a lot like a fuelling issue to me, I'd suggest a systematic approach to the carbs. Get the workshop manual for the bike and try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check fuel supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check float level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check idle mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that jets are clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that all vacuum hoses are routed and connected correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that carb diaphragms are intact and needles slide easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that air filter is clear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T10:58:32.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21242" CreationDate="2016-05-25T11:01:53.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedal feel is always softer until the pads have bedded into the rotors properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you follow a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;proper bed-in procedure&lt;/a&gt; before deciding that you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T11:01:53.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T11:18:27.677" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would stop at traffic lights? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the parking brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you're doing when stopping &quot;completely&quot; is adding to the end of this sequence: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the transmission in &quot;P&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the button to stop the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17592" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T11:18:27.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T11:49:00.450" Score="1" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignition port for key fob, insert key, press brake, press start button and nothing.  It worked just a few hours before.  Flip key fob and no difference.  Tried different key fob this morning and no difference.  You can hear the fuel pump turn on, the lights on the dash come on, head lights come on just as normal, just will not initiate/engage the starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17593" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T21:06:37.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:06:37.700" Title="Volvo S80 (2008) Ignition - Car Not Starting" Tags="|starting|volvo|keyless-entry|s80|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30096" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Nissan Leaf is an all-electric car produced by Nissan of Japan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30097" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" Score="0" Body="The Nissan Leaf is an all-electric car produced by Nissan of Japan" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:21:48.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mid-range family saloon produced by the GM group and badges as a Vauxhall, Opel, Holden or Chevrolet depending on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" Score="0" Body="A mid-range family saloon produced by the GM group and badges as a Vauxhall, Opel, Holden or Chevrolet depending on the market." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:25:21.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30046" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:51:11.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To calculate the actual speed you need:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Transmission gear ratios&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Final drive ratio&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tire diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engine RPM&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[tire diameter (in inches)] * [pi] * [1/(gear ratio * final drive ratio)] / [in/ft] / [ft/mi] * [RPM] * [min/hr] = MPH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constants:&#xA; pi = 3.14159&lt;br&gt;&#xA; in/ft = 12&lt;br&gt;&#xA; ft/mi = 5280&lt;br&gt;&#xA; min/hr = 60&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I could simplify this equation, but this is good for seeing all the necessary parts and conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I watch the tach and speedo to determine MPH per 1000 RPM in higher gears (3rd,4th,5th). On my car its about 11, 15, 19.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;calculated:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;tire diameter - used an online calculator - 195/55R15 = 23.4in&lt;br&gt;&#xA;gear ratio (3, 4, 5)- 1.360, 1.034, 0.787&lt;br&gt;&#xA;FD ratio - 4.40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;RPM - 1000&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd: 23.4 * 3.14 * ( 1 / ( 1.360 * 4.40 ) ) / 12 / 5280 * 1000 * 60 = 11.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4th: 23.4 * 3.14 * ( 1 / ( 1.034 * 4.40 ) ) / 12 / 5280 * 1000 * 60 = 15.29&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5th: 23.4 * 3.14 * ( 1 / ( 0.787 * 4.40 ) ) / 12 / 5280 * 1000 * 60 = 20.1&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be about correct.  There are a couple things that will throw this off such as tire diameter not being exactly as advertised, tire wear, and the tach and speedo not being 100% accurate. Doing this as one equation and using a calculator's pi gives more accurate results due to significant digits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a GPS (or a speedometer app on your phone) to view your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:51:11.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:52:27.133" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a combustion happens inside the chamber how much pressure is the moles exerting inside the close container? How could one figure this out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:01:43.730" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T23:53:41.260" Title="How much pressure in ATMs is acting when a combustion happen?" Tags="|pressure|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:36:32.157" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake light just started showing up on the dashboard. First item I will be checking is the Master Fluid Level . . . the manual says DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid . . . How do I determine which one is already in the cylinder ?  I can only hope the techs in the past (when they had to replace) used DOT4 due to the higher boiling point, but have no way of verifying. Please advise - thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17596" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T16:04:56.130" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T16:09:13.847" Title="2005 Montero LTD — Brake Warning Light - Intermittent" Tags="|brake-fluid|dot4|montero|dot3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30091" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:53:49.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually had an oil pressure sender leak in a similar fashion. Not from a leak around the sensor thread, but actually through the sensor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question has a simple answer, replace the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internals of the sensor has degraded due to pressure/temperature/age or whatever enough so that the sensor is no longer sealing the inside of the engine from the outside. The sensor is not a solid lump of metal, it contains components housed inside some other material, possibly ceramic and that has failed. It's really that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just replace the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T13:53:49.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30102" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:01:47.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dot 4 supercedes Dot 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put Dot 4 in, no problem. Basically, Dot 4 can go in and replace Dot 3, chances are you already have Dot 3 in anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia, Dot 4: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a vehicle that uses DOT 3 may also use DOT 4 or 5.1 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Dot 5 is not compatible with either, it is a different chemical makeup based on silcon. Putting Dot 5 in a Dot 3/4 system is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T14:01:47.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36787" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:12:13.827" Score="7" ViewCount="4198" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfsBs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Awful jumble of poorly shot pictures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/20/16 EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/XwyWYwAK9NU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sunroof on my 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan will not retract (open) into the roof. It will tilt up and down without issue, and it will begin to retract, only to hit the physical limiter switch almost immediately. The motor seems to be running fine, and the clutch seems to engage without issue. I could not find similar symptoms on any of the Nissan/Infinti forums I frequent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the glass and interior sunroof cover/shade, and was able to see that the limiter switch is not moving back when the 'open' button is pressed. I am able to move the limiter switches (and the rest of the mechanism) by hand, but I have to pry a piece of the switch out of a groove in the tracks before they will budge. There does not appear to be any mechanism that should be doing that prying during normal operation, so I'm confident that is not the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to turn the motor using an allen/hex key, even with the motor removed from the assembly (I put as much pressure on the 4mm key as I am willing to risk, to no avail.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the 'reset sunroof limit' procedure from Nissan/Infiniti, but it encountered the same limit switch problem. I also tried lubricating all visible tracks, pivots, and joints with silicone grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be preventing the limit switch from moving? Can anyone find detailed drawings of a Nissan sunroof system to aid in my troubleshooting? I have read there is a cable that pulls the limit switches back, but the motor is in the front, and there doesn't seem to be anything other than rails at the rear of the assembly. Pictures of the sunroof mechanism tell the same tale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I'm not great with wiring diagrams, could whatever leads to the 'comfort stop' on the diagram below be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT AGAIN: I checked all 3 fuse boxes and couldn't find anything that said sunroof, and none of the fuse boxes seemed to correlate to the fuse diagram shown below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/20/16 EDIT: Finally got my roof rack off and dug into this problem again, tried a new motor from the junk yard and it hit the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mh6x.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mh6x.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Does this show what could be the problem?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't important enough to sink serious money into, but it's summertime, and I want a working sunroof dammit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfsBs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Awful jumble of poorly shot pictures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:13:35.497" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:13:35.497" Title="Sunroof motor working, but will not retract" Tags="|sunroof|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T14:57:38.740" Score="7" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a diesel tractor with a generator. After sitting for a long period the battery was low so I used a portable jumper battery but mistakenly hooked up the cables in reverse. This caused smoke to come from the positive terminal hookup and fried the jumper battery which I replaced. I recharged the battery on the tractor and it turns over very well but the engine won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have damaged the electrical system in the tractor? If so what would be the fix? Could the electrical system be reversed polarity. This tractor always started up when battery was charged. The fuse on the dash appears to be OK The tractor is a 1955 INTERNATIONAL 504 DIESEL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17599" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T08:24:03.680" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T11:02:27.320" Title="Starting a diesel tractor" Tags="|electrical|starting|diesel|jump-start|tractor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:33:33.023" Score="4" ViewCount="22813" Body="&lt;p&gt;All car's I've had (second hand and between 15-30 years old) have always had a greasy veil over engine components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand moving components need to be lubricated but this gives off the impression the components are &quot;sweating&quot; oil, even though no oil leak is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what extent is this normal in a vehicle?&#xA;Is it recommended or safe to clean this thin layer of oil off the engine?&#xA;I can't say I'm 100% sure of the origin of the liquid but if does give the impression it's gunk with an oily touch, it's mostly accumulated on metallic components, mainly the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16187" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T15:47:22.480" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T20:48:30.200" Title="Is a greasy exterior a sign of bad maintenance?" Tags="|engine|oil|maintenance|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30107" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:57:38.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple fact is that there are tons of ways for cars to get oil &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; the engine rather than in the engine.  There is engine oil, AC compressor oil, and power steering fluid.  Over time, most engines will have some kind of leak.  Maybe its a small leak from the head cover gasket or even a cracked PCV valve.  It could also be spilled when filling the oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most car engines are open to the road on the underside so dirty, oily water and dust will splash and blow up from underneath.  Over the years very small amounts of oil and dirt just build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, combine all that with the fact that most people will never clean their engine.  Unless you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; care about your car, you're not going to open the hood on car wash day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all a long winded way to say that its perfectly normal on an older car.  However, its not ever &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to happen.  On a perfect engine, there should never be an oil leak or oil getting onto the engine (unless splashed up from the road).  An oily engine means there was an oil leak or spill, and it was never cleaned.  Maybe it was fixed, and maybe its a current leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's totally safe to clean the oil off of the engine.  &quot;Engine De-greasers&quot; are commonly sold at auto parts stores, and you can even find places that will do steam cleaning of the cars nether-regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T15:57:38.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:01:48.377" Score="7" ViewCount="8120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told that by setting the parking brake each time the truck is parked, the shoe-brakes would self adjust. Is this true? There are no access holes on the back plate for manual adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17394" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T16:25:55.687" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T10:56:23.423" Title="How do the rear brakes on a 1995 Chevy 1500 self-adjust?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:17:03.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's tight'ish it'll probably be fine.. However make sure the other four nuts are torqued up properly! Also make sure that the looser nut &amp;amp;stud can NOT be undone, as you don't want one of those things flying through somebody else's windscreen&#xA;I would advise that you get it replaced as soon as you can. If the nut just spins it's likely the splines that lock the stud into the hub have stripped. This is not dangerous or anything like that it will just give you the spinning wheel nut symptoms you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a five minute job to replace the stud if it's in stock and the nut will come off, however it's NOT a five minute job to replace it if the nut has been cross-threaded onto the stud.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:17:03.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:24:40.423" Score="2" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all the airbag squibs on an Opel/Vauxhall Corsa C include steering angle sensor? I mean is the steering angle sensor included in the part even on cars that do not have ESP/ESC (Electronic Stability Probram/Control)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common part nr. I found is 24459850 1610662 although I think this part has multiple types (saw other nr. on same part too). The airbag squib looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top view&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsqSS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsqSS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom view&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLdmY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLdmY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:24:40.423" Title="Do all airbag squibs on Opel Corsa C include steering angle sensor?" Tags="|parts|vauxhall|opel|steering-wheel|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30112" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:30:57.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A compact five-door hatchback electric car manufactured by Nissan and introduced in Japan and the United States in December 2010, followed by various European countries and Canada in 2011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Leaf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Leaf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:13:42.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:13:42.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30113" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:30:57.297" Score="0" Body="Electric vehicle produced by Nissan" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:13:29.753" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:13:29.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:41:39.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Jeep Liberty and the oil pan rusted out and it was driven for a while without oil. The oil pan was fixed a couple days later. This happened in April 2014, in Oct 2014 the engine started to rap (knock). I brought it to the shop and it was fixed. In March 2015 it started to knock again, brought it back to the shop and I was told it was tappet wear, in July 2015 it started to knock again, so I brought it back to the shop and I was told it might be a lifter causing the noise because one might be bleeding down, in May 2016 the engine started to knock so bad I couldn't drive it. I had it towed to the shop and they told me I need a new engine, and now my warranty is over by 3000 miles and I will have to pay over $5000 for a new engine. My question, was this all caused by the oil pan rusting out and it running out of oil? It only has 78,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17603" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T17:03:56.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T04:02:08.013" Title="2011 Jeep Liberty ran without oil, did this cause my engine to blow?" Tags="|engine|oil|jeep|liberty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30109" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:44:26.497" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure on your particular vehicle, but most auto-adjusting drum brakes work when applying the foot brake (not parking brake) while the vehicle is in reverse, so whenever you back out of a parking space and hit the foot brake, the brakes adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a device within the braking assembly which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmkdM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmkdM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lever arm attached to the brake shoes, which when in reverse and the brake shoes move due to the stopping action, turns the small studded dial on this device which spreads apart on a screw action, causing the brake shoes to move further apart and adjust to fit. It will only adjust this as far as the shoes can moves (meaning there is a correlation between movement and the amount of adjustment), so over adjustment is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you may have looked for a slot to adjust, it should be there at the bottom of the backing plate. It may have a rubber plug in place to keep debris from entering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T20:52:47.587" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:52:47.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T17:01:32.720" Score="4" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the transmission in my 93 Dakota. To get it to drop I had to cut the metal coolant lines that lead to/from the radiator. The stock lines are .315 ID.  My question is, can I use a rubber hose instead? I know they make ATF strength hoses. I've even heard that upping the size to .5 ID would actually help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17604" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T21:04:39.933" Title="93 Dodge Dakota ATF cooler line" Tags="|automatic-transmission|dodge|transmission-fluid|dakota|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30114" CreationDate="2016-05-25T17:09:29.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your oil pan didn't rust&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just like to point out that your oil pan can't just rust out.  It is made of material that doesn't rust.  So when you had a hole in your oil pan it more than likely hit a rock or curb or something that penetrated it.  Perhaps the other driver of the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if your oil pan was replaced with something that does rust then it could have rusted but I doubt you replaced it with one made of iron or steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question, was this all caused by the oil pan rusting out and it running out of oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely running your engine without oil has contributed to an early failure of your engine.  Bearings require lubrication and your crankshaft 'floats' on a thin layer of oil in your crank case.  Loss of oil pressure can quickly degrade these types of bearings and increase wear on them dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a safe assumption to say that a loss of oil pressure to your engine has contributed to it's early demise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T04:02:08.013" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T04:02:08.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22188" CreationDate="2016-05-25T17:43:47.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Camry, and if I'm not mistaken the drivers window control setup is very much the same as on your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things you can rule out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not the window or the wiring to the window because the old switch still works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not just the aftermarket part because the new OEM part does it too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is something you can try. The difference is clearly in one of the switches, and not the wiring. But, you might be able to fix it by modifying the wiring to match the new switch. To figure out what you would need to change, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) and put it into the &quot;Measure resistance&quot; mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the plate from the door handle that contains the switch pack, which if you have replaced it you must have already done. Otherwise I would suggest looking on YouTube as there are lots of videos on how to remove Camry interior trim parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, compare the old and new switches to see if there are any differences between them. What you are looking for is which contacts are connected when the switch is closed. You need to map this out for both the new and old switches, and then compare the maps. Don't forget to create the map for both directions of the switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the two map out the same, then I have no idea why the new one wouldn't work. But I'm betting that they are different somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:43:47.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30088" CreationDate="2016-05-25T18:02:39.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are describing a lean condition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold.  When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air leaks into your system can become more obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered.  If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifolds that you mount the carburetors to are made of rubber.  Since your MC is 30 years old now if none of those components have been changed out they are more than likely highly degraded and possibly cracked in places.  When you disassembled the engine and removed the head you must have removed the rubber intake manifolds.  After 30 years of being in the same position it's very possible that they cracked a bit while pulling them off. As well, you could have missed some vacuum lines when you reassembled the fuel delivery system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a QA regarding lean and rich setting of MC carburetors.  About halfway into the response there is relevent information regarding how to test for air leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23937/9164&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23937/9164&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action Items&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization.  the vacuum plugs are on the head just after the rubber intake manifolds.  The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the manifolds for cracks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the carburetor are secure and have not bound up the manifolds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fix your airbox mounting to the carburetors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the air box fittings are also a little warped and they don't fit completely over the carbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel.  The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to 'suck' the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;venturi effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounting of the airbox issue you have will create a small lean effect.  This might be a game of inches for you so just get that one out of the way.  It's not correct, you are getting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment.  Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue.  Pick the low hanging fruit first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One last thing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point.  It ran fine before.  There is something wrong with the assembly or a component.  Do not adjust your floats.  Get it back to where it was.  The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose the state of the vehicle.  Move onto that activity as a last resort.  Troubleshoot, gather data, draw a conclusion, remediate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:02:39.583" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T18:22:14.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to Stop a Car (Correct Way)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.Press the brake pedal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.Pull up hand brake&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3.Move gear from &quot;D&quot; (or &quot;R&quot;) to &quot;P&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4.Release the brake pedal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5.Press the &quot;press to start&quot; button to stop the engine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? You want the handbrake to hold the car stationary. You don't want to stress the Parking gear, it can fail without warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in a while you'll want to test your car's handbrake by going on a hill, putting the gear in neutral (N) and see if the handbrake holds the car stationary. If it moves then they require adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17576" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:22:14.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5773" CreationDate="2016-05-25T18:56:03.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, yes. OIL fouling of the spark would be the correct assumption. However in this particular motor, which is notorius for blown head gaskets and lower intake manifold gasket leaks, allowing coolant into the combustion chamber I would take a look at these first, and in order.&#xA;1.  fuel pressure, this all started after you ran out of gas correct?&#xA;    you should have a vavle on the fuel rail, to hook up a pressure gage to.&#xA;    30-40psi with regulator vacuum hose attached. 45-55psi with hose &#xA;    disconnected.&#xA;2. #1 fuel injector pulse, is it actually spaying fuel into the cylinder? &#xA;    causing no combustion. or is it leaking after shut down and fouling?&#xA;?&#xA;    is the connector loose?&#xA;3.  COILPACK..... do you ever get PO305 code along with your PO301 code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in general there are &quot;oil Rings&quot;, to clarify these &quot;rings&quot;  actually control the amount of oil they let by them to coat the cylinder wall for lubrication to reduce friction and heat. They dont seal. The cylinder wall wears to the point were they cant control the amount of oil anymore. The fix is the same tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17606" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:56:03.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30078" CreationDate="2016-05-25T18:56:39.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct terminology is &quot;to park the car&quot;. This is what I've been taught on an automatic transmission:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come to a complete stop in &quot;D&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put shifter into &quot;N&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply parking brake, release service brake to let the car rest completely on the parking brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put shifter into &quot;P&quot; (most cars do not need the service brake to be applied when going up into &quot;P&quot;, but your mileage may vary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off ignition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2 and 3 is there to prevent the car's weight from resting on the parking pawl in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3415" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:56:39.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30116" CreationDate="2016-05-25T20:44:41.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to fix this is to use flared butt ended fittings, or to replace the line whole. The rubber, while it will hold, is still the weak link in the chain. Over time it will weaken and wear, and ultimately fail. Using the dual ended but joint like I have pictured below (or something like this), if installed correctly, will not fail any sooner than the metal line itself will. On the ends of this will be brass nuts which will slip over the line, then you'll need to flare the ends. This is called a &lt;em&gt;Brass Flare Fitting&lt;/em&gt;. They make all different sizes, but you'll need it to be a butt connector type to work properly and have the least amount of resistance to transmission fluid flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wh0jF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wh0jF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:44:41.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30128" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:06:32.427" Score="1" ViewCount="6657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've changed my car (Brazilian GM Classic) oil and after the change the A/C stoped working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked for the car dealearship I've changed the oil to check it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagnostic was that the A/C compressor was damaged, the solution was to change it. They explained to me that this damage may happened in some flood I've passed by. &#xA;The explanation was that with the A/C turned on while passing through the flood, the water may be pulled inside and damaged it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make any sense? Or its just cheap talk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17595" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T11:48:40.150" Title="Failure in A/C compressor due to flood?" Tags="|ac|gm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30124" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:14:56.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It sounds a little odd but....it's possible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil change has nothing to do with the AC compressor.  So rule that out as a cause in your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor could get damaged if underwater, it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say I've driven my 4x4 truck through rivers where the water was going over the hood and my engine was almost completely submerged and did not experience any issues.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:14:56.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30102" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:23:34.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things here. First, when I find the brake reservoir low, I will look at my disk brakes to ensure the pads aren't shot (or nearly worn out). Usually, if worn enough, the fluid level will drop to a point where the brake light will come on as you described (most notably so if both back and front are worn out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, consider just flushing your fluid completely using the fluid of your choice (DOT3/4/5.1) and you'll be fine. 5.1 is a bit harder to find, but can be had on the internet fairly easy. Most people do not flush the fluid in their brake system often enough anyway (should be done around a 2-3 year interval on most vehicles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you just added clean/new fluid to the reservoir to top it off to get you by, you'd be fine. If the brake fluid in the system is DOT4 and you put DOT3 in, not only is it compatible, but will work together. You'd just consider the brake fluid to perform at the DOT3 level instead of the DOT4 level of performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as DOT5, the main reason you can not use it is because of anti-lock brakes (ABS). The ABS will not function correctly with the DOT5 silicon based brake fluid. It is used by the US Military in their vehicles and in vehicles which are used exclusively in extremely cold climates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing to consider. If the fluid is low and the brakes are in good shape, keep an eye on it, as you are probably losing fluid somewhere. Leaking brake fluid can sometimes be hard to spot, and usually only happens during braking, so you wouldn't necessarily see it as a spot in the driveway. Just something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:23:34.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31648" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:34:28.003" Score="6" ViewCount="5074" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just rebuilt most of a 2 stroke jet boat. ( if you need / want any boat details, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29411/starting-a-2-stroke-jet-boat-after-several-years?lq=1&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First day the boat started fine, no problems, next day I tried again and the CDI fuse had blown ( see this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/30008/replacing-a-boats-blown-cdi-fuse/30026#30026&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; for details )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, day two, I replace the fuse with the same rating. She fired up nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, day three, The new fuse is blown again.. I go thru, very carefully, and check for any visible wire, I found a few, wrapped wrap them in electrical tape and cleaned all the major terminals. I installed a new fuse and now I don't even get any power to the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I check next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A similar wire diagram can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.channelblade.com/EProWebsiteMedia/2904/Owner&amp;#39;s%20Manual%20early%2090&amp;#39;s%20Rage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, on page 26 if it will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened up the CDI box and determined that the starter relay never powers the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a brown wire that comes from the ignition, when the key is in the &quot;on&quot; position this brown wire gives 12.6v to the starter relay, when I try to start the engine, the brown wire only supplies ~8ish volts to the starter relay, there is also a black wire the goes to the starter relay...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can some one let me know how / what to test next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be safe to detach the signal wire and connect that terminal to the input terminal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no power goes to the starter would this confirm that the relay is bad? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE 3&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have confirmed that the starter relay and starter motor are working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I have narrowed down my possibilities to either the ignition itself or the safety laynard. As mentioned turning the key is to &quot;on&quot; is only putting out 8ish volt ( via the brown wire ), maybe the safety laynard is what is causing this drop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white wire comes from the safety laynard, connects to the ignition and then goes directly to the CDI Unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black wire comes from the safety laynard, connects to the ignition and then goes to the CDI box ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I test my safety laynard to determine if it is the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T18:00:41.450" Title="Boat Not Getting Power to the Starter Motor" Tags="|electrical|boat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30124" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:42:09.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;AC systems are hermetically sealed, no way for water to intrude the system especially if the system has any charge at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could however damage the electrical part of the compressor (clutch magnet) or other parts of the AC electrical system like relays, wiring or switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:42:09.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30127" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:50:26.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a voltmeter and trace the circuit for 12v from the battery to the starter, you will find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/diagnosevoltdrop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;where the voltage drops off&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also trace it to and from the starter switch/button to the starter relay, check all circuits involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:50:26.197" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:15:21.067" Score="0" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought 02 upstream air fuel for 04 Honda Civic it came with a male connector while the old has a female connector the connector on the car is male so  I  cut the connector off the new sensor how do  I  join the wires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New 02 colors: black, black, blue, white &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old 02 colors: black, black, green, white&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17612" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T12:08:37.147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T12:08:37.147" Title="Honda Civic O2 Sensor" Tags="|honda|sensor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-05-26T02:19:47.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30132" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:46:43.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will not likely work. If the sensor is not the correct part number for the specific vehicle it is unlikely that it will match the exacting electrical specifications needed for the PCM to control and read the sensor. AFR sensors are matched to the PCM. Unlike so called &quot;oxygen sensor&quot; which can more often be interchanged across different engines and control systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T23:46:43.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30101" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:53:41.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no fixed pressure.. However it is not uncommon for ordinary petrol production engines to have an initial post spark pressure at peak power of around 68Atm's. &#xA;Race petrol engines can be higher at more than 105Atm's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T23:53:41.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30132" CreationDate="2016-05-26T00:29:35.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @fredwilson on this one you probably just screwed your self by cutting the connector off. You should of taken the sensor back and gotten the one appropriate for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case your going to have to cut the connector off the old sensor as well. Keep track of where the wires go into the connector and solder or crimp the connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:29:35.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T00:34:26.087" Score="1" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys I went to the dealership and they told me that my oil pan threads are worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Is this major thing? And is it safe to drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I told them I'm gonna travel to Florida by my car. I live in Mississippi. They told me nothing is wrong with the car, you're good to go!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17614" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T01:07:40.147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T06:55:56.827" Title="Oil pan worn/ mazda6" Tags="|mazda|oil-change|mazda-6|stripped-thread|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30041" CreationDate="2016-05-26T00:45:20.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like the brake booster is leaking. Clamp off the brake booster line and if the air sound goes away replace the brake booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect for there to be a check valve on the brake booster line and it would explain why the engine doesn't lean out when pressing on the brake pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:45:20.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30137" CreationDate="2016-05-26T01:02:30.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the threads in the drain are worn (i.e. the threads where you screw in the drain plug) then the risk is that you will be leaking oil. If you are only leaking a small amount of oil then this is not a serious problem as long as you don't let the oil level get too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a serious leak then you should get it fixed before taking a long trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T01:02:30.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2016-05-26T02:27:10.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating the stud up with an acetylene torch worked great for me. Worked for days and days with breaker bars up to 8 feet long and nothing worked. Even broke 3 heavy duty 1/2&quot; drive impact sockets. Took me a few try's to remove the nuts with the torch and then the tire iron but the heat definitely works. I wouldn't try unless it's a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17615" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T04:00:09.033" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T04:00:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T04:22:10.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just know the plain definition of the Torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque: Definied as the force applied to the object to rotate on its axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The torque will be increased only upto a certain RPM and it will gradually reduce.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For initial pickup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: So, is this because, after a cetain RPM, the movement of the piston is very fast and so,it struggles to breathe the air from the environment, &#xA;so in the power stroke, it is producing very less power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2. If so, the engine with RAM intake, will assist the engine to breathe, also at the higher RPM.? &lt;br/&gt;&#xA; Q2.1 So, this results in producing the torque even at higher RPM.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3. Also, this torque will depends on the quality of the air ( I mean the less denser,more denser with the oxygen molecules)...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that right, or some other reasons are there..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kindly help me, by providing some inputs for better understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:25:30.870" Title="Torque reduces gradually after certain RPM" Tags="|rpm|performance|torque|ram-air-effect|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30091" CreationDate="2016-05-26T04:37:06.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil cooler design usually has an O ring seal at its base and leaks are common. That seal is likely as hardened as the valve cover gasket was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil pressure sensor (OPSU) leaking through the sensor is also common. This one can get quite large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leak at the Knock Sensor is odd. Never seen that before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know for sure what is leaking and what is not. Clean the area thoroughly. Then spay some powder on it; I have used foot powder. Then run the engine for as long as it takes for the leaks to return. The powder will show the leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T04:37:06.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2016-05-26T05:48:27.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is mainly a question of engine balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good video to understand engine balance is done by the Engineering Explained YouTube channel &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aonbwOxooGA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have an understanding of engine balance you can then understand why, for example, a 5 cylinder engine is more challenging to introduce in a production vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia, Concerning a straight 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Balance&#xA;  A disadvantage of a straight-five over a straight-six engine is that a straight-five engine is not inherently balanced. Any even-firing straight-five design has free moments (vibrations) of the first and second order, while a straight-six has zero free moments. This means that no additional balance shafts are needed in a straight-six. By comparison an inline-four engine has no free moments of the first or second order, but it does have a large free force of the second order which contributes to the vibration found in unbalanced straight-four designs.[9]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And under the wikipedia page for a V6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Straight engines with an odd number of cylinders are inherently unbalanced because there are always an odd number of pistons moving in one direction while a different number move the opposite direction. This causes an end-to-end rocking motion at crankshaft speed in a straight-three engine. V6 designs will behave like two unbalanced three-cylinder engines running on the same crankshaft unless steps are taken to mitigate it, for instance by using offset journals or flying arms on the crankshaft or a counter-rotating balance shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, there is a disadvantage to these designs with respect to the harmonic balance of the engine. It is not impossible to overcome these issues however VW/Audi had a lot of success with their 5 cylinders but it would become a specific reason for the design decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other reasons too though as Anarach has pointed out. You can imagine that 4,6,8 designs became 'standard' and anything outside of that unusual. In the case of an i3 engine, would 3 cylinder engines have had good sales figures in previous decades? It's more likely now with hybrid enignes (BMW i8 uses an i3 petrol to charge batteries) and direct injection improving the power from smaller engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T05:48:27.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2016-05-26T06:22:10.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dual Mass Flywheels absorb the harmonic torsional vibration caused by low rpm in few cylinder engines ie 4 cyl at under 1500 rpm, worst under load.  That is when the DMF will be working and wearing most and at a time that you can reduce wear, but low rpm is where the economy is and this is why the DMF is used, to take advantage of the low rpm economy without the shudder or chatter (petrol motors have the harmonic vibration also) most v8s are smooth right from the idle petrol or diesel it is the length of the crank coupled to the amount of cyls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nailing it at the lights and walking off the clutch has to work it hard, also burnouts with axle tramp, I think would top the list for life reduction in the DMF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best mileage from the DMF will be achieved while in top gear cruising over 1500rpm.  If you are in town, you are in town, maybe use 1 gear lower during low RPM and less peddle at low RPM being the only things I can suggest, it may be better for you to consider auto.  These diesels are good, add up the $ in fuel saving for 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pig 307 with the 6sp, I run start it regularly, I have done 200k+ and the DMF is buggered (clangs at the idle and shudders during take of) but I am still driving.  Towing with the 307 is good, pulls like a train.  I am told? that the starter drives to the trany end of the DMF, if so starting alone will work the DMF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LuK have a good article on DMF.&#xA;youtube. LuK Dual-Mass Flywheel - design and function.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZpTQW21_yc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZpTQW21_yc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On torsional vibration have a look at this and imagine it to be your crankshaft.&#xA;youtube.  Torsional Vibration&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FH4i360esn8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FH4i360esn8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I watched a good article on fluid harmonic balancers (HB), same deal but at the front of the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect is like an impact wrench driving your car, the vibrational torque peaks are high and are hard on the trany and the crank.  Smoothing this is the job of the DMF and HB.  In a non DMF 4 cyl vehicle, you will know when these forces are active as the vibration comes through the whole vehicle even a 6cyl truck, but I have used vehicles for long durations while under severe torsional vibration and have never had a broken crank or trany as a result, it was the shudder that is most irritating and what often forces one to down change a gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say &quot;she'll be right&quot; and &quot;don't you worry about that&quot; well too much anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17619" LastEditorUserId="17619" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T03:05:44.877" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T03:05:44.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:21:43.353" Score="1" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is impossible to shift into lo range when the vehicle is cold. I have changed the oil with no improvement. When the drive is warm there is not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17621" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T10:35:21.107" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T10:35:21.107" Title="Unable to shift into low range when cold on my 100 series Toyota Landcruiser" Tags="|toyota|transmission|land-cruiser|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30142" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:49:41.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque is a rotational force. It is a measurement of how hard it is applying force that causes the crankshaft to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is not a very good unit of measurement for an engine because it does not take into consideration how fast the output shaft rotates. For example, given an engine with 100 lb-ft. of torque, if you put that output through a 10:1 gearbox, the gearbox output has 10x the torque (1000 lb-ft), but rotates 1/10th the speed it did without the gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines operate at very low engine speeds (compared to a gasoline engine), so to make power, they need very high torque. Diesel engines benefit from lower wear from lower engine speeds, but they have very high compression, offsetting that benefit somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Power&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take both the output shaft rotation speed &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the torque into consideration, you end up measuring power. Power is measured in horsepower (in metric, watts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horsepower = torque (ft-lb) * RPM / 5252&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watts = N/m * rads/sec&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are the same, the latter being metric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Volumetric efficiency&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine &amp;quot;struggling&amp;quot; to intake air at high engine speed is measured as &amp;quot;volumetric efficiency&amp;quot;. It is the ratio of how much air actually fills the cylinder, to, how much air could fill the cylinder, at a given engine speed. It is usually expressed as a percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher engine speeds &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; give you more power, automatically, because more fuel is burnt and more power strokes occur. This is true, but it is largely offset by significantly increased internal engine drag at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Gearing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a racing engine. If it can operate up to very high engine speed, it can stay in a lower gear longer. The lower gear gives them additional torque at the output of the gearbox, in exchange for spinning slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, a transport truck engine can hardly operate very far above 3000 RPM, it would need to up-shift much sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Let's make a hypothetical comparison&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 lb-ft @ 8000 rpm   vs   400 lb-ft @ 2000 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the above engines make exactly the same amount of power. In fact, you could make two identically powered output shafts, rotating at the same RPM, if you put the 8000 rpm engine through a 4:1 gear reduction, giving 400 lb-ft on both outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also put the 2000 rpm engine's output through a 1:4 ratio. In this case, you would have 100 lb-ft on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Air Density&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, low air density (usually caused by high altitudes) will reduce engine output significantly. For this reason, aircraft engines are often fitted with turbochargers, to offset the lack of atmospheric pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ram air intake&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ram air intakes do have a small effect, but they are often there for psychological reasons. It doesn't have to &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; help, it has to look cool, and it has to seem like it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T09:13:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T10:49:14.300" Score="5" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most countries have some kind of official or well know appraisal organizations which give official book values for vehicles which are used by the general public as a guideline for buying and selling, and by insurance companies for calculating payouts when cars are wrecked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I want to sell a older car ( say 15 to 20 years old ) according to it's book value.  What kind of assumptions go into that book value?  Does it assume that everything in the car is basically in perfect condition, just old, or does it assume the normal kind of wear and tear a well maintained car of that age would have, like small oil leaks, worn out shocks, minor dings and dent or slightly faded or oxidized paint, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm trying to sell such a car according to book value, what are my obligations as far as pointing out what I would consider normal wear and tear in my region?  I say in my region, because the typical practice here is that people do the absolute minimum as cheaply as possible to keep the vehicle street legal.  This goes back of course to what assumptions go into the book value.  Do I need to point out every little problem or potential problem I'm aware of, or can I ethically simply say that the car is in good condition for it's age and list the specific repairs I've done to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do you draw the line between trying to be a salesman, since of course you want to sell your car for as much as you can get, and making sure you are not being dishonest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:01:38.370" Title="Car Ethics, Book Value and Disclosure when selling older cars" Tags="|buying|selling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30142" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:25:30.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my answer will be closely related to this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28581/bsfc-brake-specific-fuel-consumption-how-is-this-a-beneficial-measurement/28737#28737&quot;&gt;BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) - How is this a beneficial measurement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1. The force in each stroke is directly related to the torque.  There is less &lt;strong&gt;force&lt;/strong&gt; in each stroke as the torque is decreasing.  &lt;strong&gt;Power&lt;/strong&gt; will increase with RPM to a certain point as power is a function of force over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2a.  If your limitation is air, a RAM intake will help minimally.  The RAM air's main advantage is getting cool air from outside the vehicle, instead of hot air from under the hood.  The RAM intake does not force much air (if any at all) when compared to a turbo or supercharger.  You can look at the dyno graphs for a naturally aspirated and turbocharged engine (on the same bore, stroke, cam) and they will peak and drop around the same area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3. Higher air density (colder air, close to sea level) produces more torque.  Less dense air (hotter, higher altitude) produces less torque.  This is because of the number of molecules or air being sucked into the cylinder.  Its easy to match fuel on an electronic fuel injection engine, the hard parts is getting the air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where your engine makes the most torque, and how wide the torque curve is depends on the design of the engine.  I will touch on some main points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stroke&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the most important to determining your power band.  Longer stroke means more low end power.  Shorter stroke means more high end power.  Longer stroke gives more mechanical advantage (leverage) between the piston and the crank, so your torque peak will be higher.  With a longer stroke, the piston has to more further and therefor faster for each stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cam&lt;/strong&gt; - higher lift and more duration for higher torque curve.  Most cars nowadays have some sort of variable cam that allows different profiles for low and high RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intake&lt;/strong&gt; - long thin runners for low RPM, short fat for high RPM.  Some cars have a variable intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder head&lt;/strong&gt; - basically a match of the cam and intake.  Larger valves for higher RPM.  DOHC favors higher RPM.  Larger port size for higher RPM, smaller port size for lower RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:25:30.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:41:26.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the book value is actually a range of values, and your car will fall somewhere within that range depending on it's condition, mileage and extras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's only a single value, then I'd expect that to be a mid-range value, so a car in average condition with average mileage and the expected wear and tear for it's age. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of it depends on the laws and customs in your region, but here I'd expect the seller to declare anything that is broken or non-working, but wouldn't expect to hear much about the wear and tear aspects, as that's taken as given. I'd also take anything I see with a fairly large pinch of salt, as 'minor' problems often turn out to the symptoms of major ones the seller doesn't want to mention. I'd also take the price into consideration when viewing - if the car is at the top of the range I'd expect to pay for it's age, I'd expect it to be in really good condition, whereas a cheaper car I'd expect to see more wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at other adverts for similar cars in similar condition, and base your price on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, never lie about something - if you get a direct question from a potential buyer, don't try to cover it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I hate selling cars, and I tend to be very honest about them, which probably means I get less for them than someone less ethical, but at least it means I can sleep at night...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:41:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:43:48.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around here we have Kelly Blue Book.  It will list values in perfect, good, fair, or poor condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;perfect - low mileage, minimal wear and tear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;good - this is the category most well cared for vehicles will fall into&lt;br&gt;&#xA;fair - runs and drives, has some cosmetic of mechanical issues&lt;br&gt;&#xA;poor - unreliable, major issues&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selling, you don't need to point out everything, just hit on the main points that are outside of the norm.  Anything broken or changed from the factory configuration should be mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:43:48.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15665" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:57:09.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did this last weekend. It is an easy job!&#xA;The consensus on must of the Vauxhall/Opel forums is not to try and poke anything into the hole, you'll just ram the blockage further inside the nozzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unclip the &quot;strings&quot; which hold the parcelshelf in place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the plastic ball joints which those string were clipped to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unclip the trim. Just the left hand one behind the nozzle/brake light. Removing the right hand one isn't required but does let a bit more light in. Start in the middle, get your fingers behind it and give it a sharp tug. Work your way along until all the clips are released. Note that the clips are nice sprung metal ones, so you don't need to worry too much about breaking them... unlike the single-use plastic ones which manufacturers like to use on door cards (I hate those ones!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the trim is removed , the nozzle is removed from the inside, but it is clipped in. A torch and a thin flat bladed screwdriver should do the job. As it is clipped in at both sides, the technique I used was to pull gentle on the wire, so that when one side is unclipped, it doesn't pop back in while you try to unclip the other side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When unclipped, the nozzle can pulled off the rubber hose. I had to trim a little off the rubber hose, as it had perished where it was stretched over the nozzle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the nozzle removed (and preferably with someone to hold the rubber pipe away from the car, activate the rear window washer. On mine, this dislodged a load of gunge in the pipe. If this doesn't result in a high speed jet of water, then you have other problems.. maybe a split pipe, or a faulty one-way valve near the washer bottle pump (behind the front bumper, apparently)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the removed nozzle in a cup of boiling water with a little washing up liquid to soak. Blow throw it, or use an airline to dislodge the loosened gunk. Alternately, buy a new one on ebay. They are around £5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As they say in the Haynes manuals, refit is the reverse of removal!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On mine, it still took a few good squirts to free it up completely, but at least I have a spare now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13223" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:57:09.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30157" CreationDate="2016-05-26T12:12:46.573" Score="11" ViewCount="40114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;b&gt;2008 Subaru Outback (160K miles) with an automatic transmission&lt;/b&gt; and have been curious about the Sport Mode that can be shifted into. I read in the car's manual that it increases pickup and is preferable for driving up-hill. I was curious how it accomplishes this, and if it has other consequences as well. (I have googled this, but have found a lot of different and unsatisfactory explanations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;b&gt;As a bonus component to this question,&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/i&gt; I have a bit of a wonky transmission that tends to &quot;catch&quot; or &quot;lurch forward&quot; when I attempt to accelerate too fast directly after breaking. When I drive with Sport Mode activated it seems to reduce the frequency of this quite dramatically. Why would this be the case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17624" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T03:56:08.663" Title="How exactly does Sport Mode work in an automatic Subaru Outback?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|subaru|outback|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30154" CreationDate="2016-05-26T12:28:52.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, a spirited driving style involves staying in gears until the higher RPMs to make most out of each gear. This generally provide mode torque and more enjoyment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, it's easy to understand that a &quot;Sport Mode&quot; would allow you to use the lower gears for longer as they provide more power, which makes it more &quot;sporty&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the contrary, when driving in &quot;normal&quot; mode or &quot;eco&quot; mode, you car will attempt to maximize fuel efficiency, which is accomplished by reving the engine as low as possible. Sometimes it can be achieved by skipping gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bonus question, the car is trying to select the perfect gear for the way you drive. Unlike a manual, the car doesn't have the luxury if getting your direct input. The only way it knows what to do is by reading your throttle. When you attempt to accelerate too fast, since you're not in sport mode, your car might try to down shift to let you accelerate faster hence getting up to speed quicker (Accelerations are not fuel efficient, unlike holding a constant speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T12:28:52.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30160" CreationDate="2016-05-26T12:36:17.787" Score="6" ViewCount="3754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some help identifying the Lug Nuts that came with the wheels I recently ordered and had installed on my car.  The purpose of identifying them is to be able to go get the proper tool(s) to be able to remove them in the event of a flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I'll be able to go pick up said tool(s) at a local Auto shop or if I'll have to order them specifically from somewhere.  Hopefully the picture below will be sufficient to identify them.  The wheels are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&amp;amp;wheelMake=MOTEGI+RACING&amp;amp;wheelModel=MR119&amp;amp;wheelFinish=Black+Painted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motegi MR119&lt;/a&gt; ordered from TireRack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BP4x0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BP4x0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motegi MR119 Lugs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  As per a comment below, I counted 8 &quot;valleys&quot; which I believe would make 9 &quot;teeth&quot; on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17625" LastEditorUserId="17625" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T14:03:34.327" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T20:26:50.380" Title="Identifying Lug Nuts that came with Motegi Wheels" Tags="|wheels|lug-nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30154" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:18:58.807" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sport mode will &quot;increase pickup&quot; by providing a more instantaneous response to throttle inputs. As akadian mentioned, the car will stay in lower gears as you accelerate, allowing the engine to stay in the optimal rev-range for higher torque output. The computer, by activating sport mode, will also not have to 'think' about what gear you should be in for optimal efficiency when you press the throttle, so the electronic throttle and transmission are able to more quickly react to throttle inputs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the wonky transmission: If you haven't changed your transmission fluid/filter in a while, the solenoids that facilitate gears shifts can get 'gummed up,' preventing them from reacting quickly to shift requests from the ECU (engine control unit). This can cause the jerkiness you described, as it is allowing the engine to rev up before the car is ready to accelerate in the desired gear. When the transmission finally shifts, the engine is already accelerating causing it to &quot;catch&quot; and &quot;lurch forward&quot; as you described. The wonkyness is not as pronounced in sport mode because the transmission will have already shifted down during braking to keep the engine in the optimal power band. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The ECU will also learn what kind of inputs to expect from its driver over time. If someone else had been driving the car for a while, or multiple people drive the same car, the ECU will expect certain patterns and agressiveness, which can lead to a jerky experience if it assumes incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T18:30:01.060" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:30:01.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30169" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:27:11.810" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Toyota Vitz 2007, whenever a wheel is removed and fixed again, I cannot easily turn the key and start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I turn the steering wheel a little bit, then I can turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause for this? Is this something intentional? How does turning the steering wheel unlock the key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T20:05:43.633" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:34:08.560" Title="Ignition key gets blocked when wheels are removed and fixed again" Tags="|toyota|ignition-key|steering-lock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30158" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:34:41.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/29421/12030&quot;&gt;answer to another question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure or movement on the wheels of the car can cause the steering wheel lock to bind up and prevent the key from turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems totally normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T13:34:41.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30156" CreationDate="2016-05-26T14:23:27.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These would appear to be &quot;McGard 8-spline&quot; lugs.  I don't have direct experience with them, but they appear to come in two sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2Aqs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2Aqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brandsport.com/mgrd-8-spline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrandSport Auto Accessories&lt;/a&gt;.  Never used them, but they had a good diagram.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These lugs are commonly called &quot;spline&quot; or &quot;tuner&quot; lugs.  They are sold to look sporty (because they are different and cool), provide better torque without damage, and for additional security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a specialty car shop that sells custom wheels and accessories they &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; stock something like this, but I'm not sure you would find it at a national parts store.  Of course now that you know what it's called you can figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think that Tire Rack sells these...  I was going to get them on some wheels I bought and I really thought I saw an option to buy the tool, but that was years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T14:23:27.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2016-05-26T14:56:11.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far as the UK is concerned, I would say you definitely need to declare anything which makes the car illegal - but most sensible buyers who want a car to use (rather than one to break up for spare parts) would not consider buying an old used car without a recent MOT (safety) test certificate in any case. In the UK, the MOT certificate may list items that &quot;require attention, in the opinion of the inspector&quot; (e.g. tires close to the legal wear limit) even though the car actually passed the test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for anything else, so long as you answer the buyer's questions honestly, it is legally the buyer's responsibility to check the condition of the car. Unless you are a dealer and offering a formal guarantee, you are selling it &quot;as seen&quot;. Telling lies about its condition is illegal, but you don't have to say anything at all unless you are asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A record of the car's service history will add value. In the UK, if you have been a regular customer of a &quot;large&quot; car repairer business, they will often print you a complete copy of all the work they have done on the car in the past for free (or at a nominal cost), if you have lost the original paperwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something happens (e.g. an accident or a new mechanical defect) that changes the condition of the car after the seller agreed to buy it but before the ownership is transferred, you should certainly tell the seller about that, and either let the seller walk away, re-negotiate the price, or pay for repairs to restore the car to the &quot;as seen&quot; condition yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastEditorUserId="11923" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T15:01:38.370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:01:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T17:48:48.307" Score="3" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friends 89 Trans Am with a 5.7 (L98) PFI stalls and will crank, but not restart until the car sits for a few minutes. I haven't actually looked at it yet. I'm guessing something is getting heat soaked and cutting out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that fuel injectors when hot can go out of resistance and cause no starts. But do they also cause stalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ran into a no-start L98 in a Corvette before but it never stalled. I forget the numbers but the injectors ohmed all over the place. I believe that when a injector shorts or is open the engine computer will shutdown the injector driver. The way the wiring diagram shows it there are only 2 injector drivers, one for each bank. In the case of the Corvette it had multiple injector failures on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also was thinking about a fuel pump relay but I remember that if for some reason the fuel pump relay fails it uses the oil pressure switch circuit to power the pump. I suppose the oil pressure switch could be bad as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure of the failure rate of ignition coils/control modules on these. Is the Ignition Control Module mounted on the head like a LT1? Or is it built into the distributor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't gotten any useful information over the phone and plan on looking at it during the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out the fuel pump, filter and regulator diaphragm were swapped out already. Fuel pressure is at a pretty steady 40psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had good spark and fuel pressure after the stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ohm'd the injectors some were as low as 0.2Ω and some close to spec in the 15.xΩ range. Looks like it's time for 8 new injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T14:36:53.023" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T14:36:53.023" Title="89 Pontiac Trans Am GTA Stalls No Start" Tags="|engine|starting|pontiac|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30163" CreationDate="2016-05-26T18:28:56.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is fuel pressure, a bad pump or clogged fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure is next time it stalls and you try to restart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T18:28:56.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30182" CreationDate="2016-05-26T18:41:50.890" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at a 1990 conversion van with low miles ( 63,000 ). According to the owner ( who seems like honest dude ) He bought the vehicle from a collage, who uses it for one of the sports teams. According to the carfax, between 1990 and 2001 53,000 miles were put on it. Then between 2001 and 2010 only 7000 miles were put on it. There are no records in that period of time ... until it was purchased in 2010 .... everything seems legit after that. As it was serviced regularly. The owner claims his brother is a mechanic, and that it has been serviced regularly ... is there anyway i can make sure that the odometer has not been rolled? unfortunately, these fords only have an odometer that goes up to 99k so there is no way to tell if it has rolled over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15494" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T11:20:48.517" Title="How can I tell the approximate real milage of this vehicle?" Tags="|car|odometer|mileage|van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T20:37:41.100" Score="9" ViewCount="4545" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have a 1999 Subaru Forester with an automatic transmission and a 2.5 Liter Motor.  It has poor acceleration and rough shifting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started to notice 'hesitation' on take off.  It just slowly appeared. Then I realized if I was trying to pass someone at speed,  40 to 60 mph, it would actually slow down when I pressed the gas pedal harder. I increase speed by backing off the throttle. It had an 02 code that didn't affect the driving for a couple years now. I thought it might be a TPS issue so I changed that out and still the same issue persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to swap the throttle body out and had an issue with the old gasket.  So I replaced that gasket and installed the old throttle body back on just to see.  My 02 code went away but it still runs like crap. its not possible to do any fast accelerating at all. It needs to slowly reach speed and if you try to go too hard on the gas pedal it will just bog down and semi stall until you back off the throttle and find its 'sweet spot' where  it will start to accelerate again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my Snap-On scan tool plugged in I am getting an STFT of about 22% to 37% when engine is good and warmed up.  The LTFT is between 25% to 30% at an easy cruising speed around 2600 RPM. When I push the throttle to the floor at speed STFT will go to a -10% area and the LTFT will go to around -5%. As soon as I let off the throttle it finds its 'sweet spot' again so it can accelerate. They both go back to what they were prior.  Ignition advance is around 15 degrees and will climb to around 30 or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;New NGK plugs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;New fuel filter with 28 to 33 pounds of fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any ideas before I start pulling injectors and checking and cleaning each of those today?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17634" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T21:14:50.933" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T05:16:44.467" Title="1999 Subaru Forester - bad acceleration, rough shifting" Tags="|fuel-system|subaru|fuel-injection|forester|dtc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2016-05-26T21:06:42.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I thought that I would give everyone an update, in case you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the past month, I've been driving the car around town w/o incident; the temp always at ~85 degrees C.  But I don't have NYC traffic where I live, which means that the car would be forced to idle for no more than three minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today it went into the shop.  For them, the fan did not kick on as the car was idled.  The SDS did not throw a code of any sort.  They decided to replace the coolant temp sensor (before the fan) given that I have seen the fan working under operation.  This is the cheapest/simplest repair to do at this time, given everything else that has already been done (much cheaper than replacing the fan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll keep you all posted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16889" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T21:06:42.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2016-05-26T21:29:03.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your safety and others .  &lt;strong&gt;Please change the tire.&lt;/strong&gt;  I had the same size bump on my run flats .  Tires with less than 1k .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't risk the lives of others to save a few bucks.&lt;/strong&gt;  It will cost you more down the road ... No pun intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17636" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T22:41:17.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:41:17.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30158" CreationDate="2016-05-26T22:34:08.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are are referring to the steering/ignition lock. Once a vehicle is jacked-up off the ground, the suspension hangs lower &amp;amp; sags down slightly. Once the vehicle is let down onto the ground again the wheels grip the ground before the suspension has fully settled, this creates opposing forces between the tyres, wheels &amp;amp; steering mechanism. These forces are normal, but they do have the effect you describe on the steering/ignition locking mechanism which cause it to bind slighlty, this is the resistance in the lock you are feeling. Basically the ignition locking pin is binding against the steering column lock which makes it feel tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving the steering wheel a little wiggle from side to side as you try to turn the key releases the tension on the locking pin and allows easier turning of the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:34:08.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2016-05-27T01:24:43.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it does not go so deep as to get into the sidewall plies stuff like that is usually OK stick it back on there with some super glue and drive on it for a while then check it look at it spray soapy water on it if nothing's wrong she's good to drive on till the tire is rotted our worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17638" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T01:24:43.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30176" CreationDate="2016-05-27T02:36:48.700" Score="2" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have an &lt;strong&gt;EFI engine&lt;/strong&gt; car (Nissan N16 Super Saloon - &lt;strong&gt;2000yr&lt;/strong&gt;) i bought it 6monthes ago as an used car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After i bought it, i had &lt;strong&gt;check engine lights on&lt;/strong&gt;, then i drove it to a mechanical shop few times and then they discovered that &lt;strong&gt;MAF sensor wiring has disconnected&lt;/strong&gt; and they reconnected it. and light went off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but i &lt;strong&gt;replaced both AirFilter and MAF sensor&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(original sensor was 4pin but replaced one is a 5pin)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;and i asked mechanic to tune the engine, as there is nothing to tun in EFI... he cleaned the engine. and &lt;strong&gt;found spark plugs are covered with black smock&lt;/strong&gt; due to driving with disconnected MAF sensor. and those were cleaned as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;yersterday i brought car to &lt;strong&gt;Emission test and it failed&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;this is the report i got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTvbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTvbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but previous report is ok, which have been taken one year ago by the first owner. bellow is it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/20q9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/20q9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i have red circled the issue. &lt;strong&gt;CO emission is higer when engine is in IDLE,&lt;/strong&gt; except it other things are ok.&#xA;What could be the possible reasons ? How to pass from the test ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(does my car model have O2 sensor?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="17352" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T04:01:12.247" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T12:55:44.437" Title="EFI engine car failed Emission test?" Tags="|engine|o2-sensor|emissions|tune-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30171" CreationDate="2016-05-27T03:16:34.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to your last question, yes your car does have an o2 sensor, all modern cars do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few tips to pass an emissions test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive the car on the freeway for at least 20 minutes before taking it in to get the emissions tested. If the engine is cool when you bring it in it won't burn as clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a tune up. Replace the spark plugs, wires, and possibly the coils. Especially in your case since the spark plugs were dirty, you'd probably be better off replacing them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change your oil. Old oil can burn and cause the emissions to be worse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a fuel additive. There are several additives on the market that can help clean up your emissions. Since your cylinders may be especially dirty from running without the MAF sensor, I'd recommend using seafoam to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition you should pull the codes to see if there are any faults with the fuel delivery, o2 sensors, air flow etc. Typically bad emissions are due to an incorrect mixture of air and fuel. As @Fred Wilson mentioned in his comment, if the MAF sensor that you replaced isn't the one made specifically for your car, then it won't be able to correctly control the air fuel mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T03:16:34.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30171" CreationDate="2016-05-27T03:48:47.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds a lot to me like it could be your car's O2 (lambda) sensor in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MuIH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MuIH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor#Function_of_a_lambda_probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oxygen sensor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Function of a lambda probe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lambda probes are used to reduce vehicle emissions by ensuring that engines burn their fuel efficiently and cleanly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sensor failures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles (50,000 to 80,000 km). Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the fuel economy worsens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It follows on perfectly, that with the MAF disconnected, the car has been running excessively rich (causing the deposits on the spark plugs) and also further downstream the lambda probe in the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia even states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lambda probe is used by the ECU (along with other data) to provide adjustment to the fuel mixture. If your lamda probe is covered with sooty deposits it could be fooling the ECU to think the car is running lean. The ECU then (incorrectly) compensates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an experience myself with a '96 Nissan Skyline GTS-t where the car was running very rich at idle and consuming noticeably more fuel than normal, it was resolved with a new sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be lucky to find a replacement lambda sensor for $40ish.. on Ebay, you just need to know the exact Bosch part number that matches the genuine manufacturer OEM part. This can save you a lot, as O2 sensors from the dealer can be $200+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure how long the lambda probe has been in the vehicle, it's a good idea to replace it regardless. It would probably end up saving you that in fuel even if it were not the reason for the excessive emissions. So at the very least, I think it's a great first place to start in resolving your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also am worried about the MAF having different # of wires. Messing around with the MAF or installing one with different behaviour could dramatically alter the information being provided to the ECU.. Was there a problem with the old one? It might be useful to keep the old one in case changing the MAF has had an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T03:54:54.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T04:57:52.497" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of increasing horsepower with more boost in my turbo. What's the max boost I can do if I did the k&amp;amp;n air filter upgrade and put a 2.5 down pipe and 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17640" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T05:15:35.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:33:06.323" Title="2006 Audi A4 2.0" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25745" CreationDate="2016-05-27T06:06:02.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my radio unlocked finally, thank you!! You were right about the 10-081. The symptoms match precisely so I took my car to the dealer. They said they already applied the update back in 2011 and I might have to replace the unit. Of course, I didn't believe them because my radio was working fine until that morning. I was able to check the software update version and it clearly shows that the update was not done. So I tried a different dealer and I begged them to apply the 10-081 update but after several hours they gave up and charged $130; and then told me that I need to replace the unit. Later I found out that they didn't even apply the update.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to do this myself and did online shopping.. bought the update CD from discoundhondaparts.com. Instruction is simple but I had to turn on the radio first. To turn on the radio for 3 minutes, I could do this 1, 6, power button, then 2 trick and inserted the CD. It started making musical sounds and showed a status bar at the bottom; upon completion, a man voice said &quot;eject&quot; and I did. Finished the update by pressing 1, 2, 3, 5 preset buttons and then pressing and holding the tune button at the bottom until it turns off the radio. I restarted my car and it asked the radio code; instead inserting the radio code, I pressed the power button and held for a few seconds and walla.. it all started working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am so happy as I am going camping this weekend and music is a big part of all the fun.. thank you. i will probably complain and try to get my refund on the money I spend for this nonsense.. haha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14875" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T09:37:29.450" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T09:37:29.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30137" CreationDate="2016-05-27T06:47:54.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Huh?  Worn?  I seriously doubt that.  I would think you could remove and install a drain bolt 100 times without wear.  (Note: I'm assuming steel oil pan here.. I guess it's possible for an aluminum oil pan to get stripped out after repeated insertions.  What is your oil pan made of, aluminum or steel?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off the primary seal for and oil drain bolt is the copper (and sometimes plastic) washer between the oil pan and the bolt head.  It's not the threads of the bolt. Generally you use a new copper washer with each oil change.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely scenario:&#xA;    Some mechanic dropped the oil drain bolt at your fast lube station, and grabbed some other bolt, with different threads. They forced that in, perhaps used a tap to recut threads to match, and now that's just a very loose fit.  Its also possible that your oil pan drain plug area hit a rock in the road, and this is causing problems.  This is bad, as it is possible for a drain bolt to just fall out, later. If that happens when you are on the road, you've got mere seconds to stop the engine.   Remember when the oil light comes on, that doesn't indicate a low oil condition, it indicates there is zero oil in that engine.  My belief is that if you run that engine even 60 seconds without oil, the engine is destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sure would be nice to have the correct drain plug with correct threads in there.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best thing to do is remove the oil pan and get this carefully fixed.  If it were me, I'd fill threaded hole in the oil pan with TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding and recut the threads. I'm decent at TIG in both aluminum and steel.  But to have that done would be expensive.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another choice is to just buy a new oil pan.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sure would be nice to know exactly how loose that drain bolt is.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I guess you could purchase a new drain bolt, go to a quickie oil change place have them drain the oil.  When the oil is drained, test the current drain bolt to the new one you've just bought to see how &quot;loose&quot; it is. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piece of mind is certainly worth the price of an oil change and a new bolt.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's crazy loose with both bolts, do the drain pan removal and repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T06:55:56.827" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T06:55:56.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30171" CreationDate="2016-05-27T10:42:26.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Before suspecting a bad O2 sensor...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to be sure that the replacement MAF is suitable for your car.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention the replacement MAF is a 5-pin and not a 4-pin like the one originally on the car. If the new sensor has a different flow-voltage calibration this would go a long way to explain what you are seeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the onboard fuel management is designed around a certain MAF sensor mapping, so it interprets a certain voltage as a certain air flow (e.g. 2.0 V = 50 kg/h). If the flow-voltage characteristic of the sensor changes, you would have to update the maps inside the ECU to maintain fuel control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example map:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qMTm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8qMTm.png&quot; alt=&quot;BMW E39 M5 MAF map&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T12:55:44.437" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T12:55:44.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30165" CreationDate="2016-05-27T11:20:48.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its almost Impossible to determine the mileage of a pre digital era vehicle. There is No way you can ascertain that the odo has not been tampered with, for instance the local mechanics in our suburbs have dedicated machines that will tamper with your odo for a given price, for example to go back 15,000 miles you have to pay around $100(converting , I am not from the USA)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to this question on guidelines on purchasing a used vehicle &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18503/second-hand-car-engine-tyres-etc&quot;&gt;Buying a second hand vehicle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T11:20:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30187" CreationDate="2016-05-27T14:51:20.507" Score="7" ViewCount="4845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just got a few dents repaired using paintless dent removal services. While observing the procedure, I've noticed that the repair guy used a plastic rod-like tool to fix some imperfections by hitting it gently with the wooden grip of the hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This banging on the painted surface, will it cause paint damage in long term? He assured me that since he has not used any chemicals and that the plastic rod is relatively soft there will be no problem. However I have some doubts in my mind in regard of paint acquiring micro cracks from those hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T10:21:58.173" Title="Paintless dent removal long term side effects?" Tags="|paint|dent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T15:05:52.470" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Chevrolet Impala LT. When I drive in D it won't go past a certain speed but when I drive in 3 it sounds faster than what it's going. It will be at 60mph and the reader will say at 6 when it should be between 2 and 3 on the meter. Then as soon as I do a sharp turn it will jerk and go back to normal, it drives normal and the reader is normal. And it will stay normal for the rest of the time I'm driving until I turn my car off and back on I will have to make a sharp turn for it to stop. What can it be??!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17646" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T18:53:18.353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T18:53:18.353" Title="Don't know if its my transmission, or gears" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|automatic-transmission|impala|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30185" CreationDate="2016-05-27T15:43:42.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paintless dent removal will not cause any long term side effects to your paint. The only effects to the paint would be if whatever caused the original dent caused damage to the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paintless dent repair relies on metal memory and the ability of metal to hold a position. Metal panels can usually take a certain amount of deformity and will reform without any visible damage. When you get past the point of elastic deformation, you get into plastic deformation, where the part will not rebound. The paintless dent repair person reverses the effect of this by pushing the dent from the backside and pressing it past the point where the panel is flat, so it will once again form back (rebound back) somewhat to where it should be in the first place. Most of the guys I've seen do this make it look so easy, yet come out with awesome results. First time I saw it in action I was truly amazed. They'll usually go through existing holes in the door or panel to make this happen. Sometimes drilling is required, but it will be in a not so obvious place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, as far as the surface of your paint goes, there shouldn't be any worry about chipping or flaking if the process was done right. It should look good as new. At least that has been my experience with the guys who come to the car lots to fix the minor dings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T15:43:42.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30177" CreationDate="2016-05-27T16:03:46.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just so happens I wrote a How-To article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.audiworld.com/how-tos/a/audi-a4-b7-engine-tune-reviews-421234&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AudiWorld.com&lt;/a&gt; about tune reviews for the A4 B7 platform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, you can purchase a Stage 3 remap of your computer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giacusa.com/products/software/stage_info.php?engine=2.0%20Turbo%20-%20200%20BHP%20&amp;amp;stage=X3T04&amp;amp;make=Audi_%AE&amp;amp;model=A4%20/%20S4%20/%20RS4%20%AE%20%20&amp;amp;submodel=A4%20%AE%20(%20B7%202006%20-%202008%20)&amp;amp;chassis=A4%20%AE&amp;amp;dynoplot=&amp;amp;hp=100-130&amp;amp;torque=75-145%20&amp;amp;chassis=A4%20%AE%20&amp;amp;id=17%20&amp;amp;rec_hw=updated%20intake,%20front%20crank%20case%20breather%20Patch%20kit!%20&amp;amp;req_hw=DSG%20Requires%20GIAC%20or%20other%20DSG%20flash%20removing%20Torque%20limitersS3%20K04%20w/%20properly%20set%20up%20wastegateS3%20injectors%20FMIC%20(S3%20or%20bigger)TBE%20(catless%20ok)%20HPFP%209.5-9.8mm%20pistonRS4%20FPR%20140bar%20partIntake%2070mmFront%20Crankcase%20breather%20fix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GIAC&lt;/a&gt; (assuming a 2.0 TFSI engine) and have the car produce an extra 100-130hp with 75-145 lb-ft gained in torque. Not only will you want your cold air intake, but you'll need some other mods as well (read their page). For a 2.0 liter engine, that is some serious power gains. The engine itself stays stock. The mods they talk about are all supporting, to ensure your engine is compatible with the remap of your computer. You can purchase their Stage 1 remap, which will give you an extra 30-60hp ... which is still a serious kick in the pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench racing your engine (ie: &lt;em&gt;How much will my engine make if I ...&lt;/em&gt;) is not anywhere close to an exact science. One of the reasons is, I can tell you to throw a tank of nitrous onto your car, let you blow as much laughing gas into the intake as you want, and the engine will produce 1000+hp ... the real question to ask here is: &lt;em&gt;How long is my engine going to last?&lt;/em&gt; ... the answer to that question is: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not very long.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Consider that when combining to make horsepower in any situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T16:03:46.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T16:46:01.873" Score="2" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently every time I brake for a long period of time, for instance at a red light, the brake goes all the way down to the floor. Then when I go to accelerate after, I barely touch the gas pedal and the car starts to quickly boost in speed, then goes back down to the speed where it should have been. Also the car's RPM gauge goes up even when I'm not touching the gas pedal. What's wrong? :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17647" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T21:16:07.590" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T21:16:07.590" Title="2001 Chevy Cavilier brake issue" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|braking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30189" CreationDate="2016-05-27T16:49:05.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have 2 problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake pedal that goes down to the floor at a red light is a bad Master Cylinder, replace it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Common issue as cars get higher mileage is the Thottle Body and throttle plate get gunked up, use an approved throttle body cleaner in a spray can to thoroughly clean the TB and idle air control valve and passage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T20:03:46.833" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T20:03:46.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30189" CreationDate="2016-05-27T17:37:51.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 on @Moab's answer about the master cylinder, that is a classic symptom of a bad master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the revving when not on the gas, it sounds like your ECU is getting confused by something. If you have a check engine light on pull the codes and see if there is a component failing.  Another thing to check for is a vacuum leak. If air is bypassing the MAF sensor at idle it could cause the engine speed to increase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T17:37:51.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T19:49:29.033" Score="4" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 BMW 325ci.  There are 2 faults, one is life threatening.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) Driving on freeway if I attempt to pass and engine reaches 4500 rpm it suddenly stalls, and I coast to the side and survive one more time.  If I am stationary in my yard it will not stall at 4500 rpm.  I get error codes of P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and bank 2).  I cleaned MAF and changed fuel filter, but no change.  I found no air leak using propane gas blow torch as leak detector.&#xA;2)  Second problem (maybe related).  Engine idles and runs very rough on cool mornings, the cooler the rougher.  After warming the engine 1 minute, it runs and idles fine the rest of the day. From this I get error codes P0303, P0304, and P0306 (cyl 3, 4, and 6 missfire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help before the engine stall kills me on the interslam.&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17648" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T20:14:14.170" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T20:14:14.170" Title="Engine stalls when RPMs reach 4500 under load, but not when vehicle stationary" Tags="|bmw|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30192" CreationDate="2016-05-27T19:54:42.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like fuel pressure drops off, fuel pump is weak, you would need a fuel pressure gauge connected when it stalls to check this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T19:54:42.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30166" CreationDate="2016-05-27T20:37:57.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards the throttle position sensor being out of adjustment/bad or a bad mass airflow sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perform a volumetric efficiency test, record your IAT in °F, RPM and MAF in g/s. Use an online calculator like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.otctools.com/ve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.otctools.com/ve&lt;/a&gt;. You may want to do multiple pulls to get an average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TPS voltage at idle should be around .5v and at wide open throttle should be around 4.5v. Key on engine off should be 5v. Perform a sweep test on the TPS to verify there aren't any drop outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other PIDs you should look at are MAP and BARO make sure BARO is correct for your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T20:37:57.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T21:35:48.880" Score="10" ViewCount="7728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the electric charge coming from and does it have a large amount of electric charge to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T21:05:21.087" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T21:49:01.647" Title="Where do spark plugs get their electricity?" Tags="|engine-theory|sparkplugs|spark-plug-wires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30195" CreationDate="2016-05-27T22:12:16.673" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a device called a &lt;em&gt;coil&lt;/em&gt;. The coil is basically a transformer which takes in the 12vdc voltage from the battery and upconverts it to around 40k vdc (depending on the ignition system). Here is a breakdown of what a basic coil looks like from the inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgp6L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgp6L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery input feeds the primary coil. This is a thicker wire with a number of windings. The secondary coil is where the magic happens. There are a larger quantity of windings within it. Basic electrical theory shows us as we transfer power from the fewer windings of the primary coil and the secondary coil picks it up with the huge number of thinner windings, this will increase the voltage of the electricity. While this increases the voltage, the amperage is decreased at the same time. You can read more about how it works &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this How Stuff Works article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T22:12:16.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T22:15:26.940" Score="6" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the bulbs in the interior dome lights in my jeep with LED's.&#xA;In front, there are two lights - driver and passenger. In back, there is one.&#xA;The old lights were too dim, the new LED's are great - much brighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are supposed to turn on when you open the door and you can also push on the light itself to turn it on / off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With LED's though, when the lights are supposed to be off they are on, but dim.&#xA;Its not enough to see in daylight, but just enough to be a little distracting at night. (Basically, if the key is in the ignition, the LED's are always on dimly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this means that there is always some voltage running thru these even when supposedly off. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why wouldn't they switch off completely?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Nothing seems to stop working when any of the bulbs are completely removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I fix this - so they switch off completely, and without reducing the brightness when turned on?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17650" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T06:15:39.510" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T05:08:35.387" Title="Replacing interior lights with LEDs (2003 Jeep Liberty)" Tags="|electrical|jeep|interior|led|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30199" CreationDate="2016-05-27T22:34:37.867" Score="7" ViewCount="3587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying used slick tyres. When buying normal street tyres I'd normally look at the depth of the tread to know how many kilometers I can still do on them. However tread is non existent on slicks.  How can I know how much rubber is left on used slicks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T08:52:31.853" Title="How do I know how much tread I have left on slick tyres?" Tags="|tires|maintenance|track|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30198" CreationDate="2016-05-27T22:55:16.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are wear indicators on the surface of the tire, they look similar to a drill hole, when it is to the bottom or non existent, the slick is worn out, also check for even wear across the surface from side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUtUA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUtUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T22:55:16.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30197" CreationDate="2016-05-27T23:06:31.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars have timers that keep the lights on for so many seconds after you close the door, this is done with an electronic timer and the timer may not be compatible with led's, leaking voltage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only solution is to locate the timer and wiring diagram for it and bypass the timer, this would require some skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T23:06:31.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1290" CreationDate="2016-05-28T01:01:58.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahh yes, STOP thinking!!!, I have the answer!!!  This is a trick question.  &quot;while in town use public transport&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that gearboxes for DMF will work fine with SMF, the gearbox failures maybe more likely due to design and after x Km they are failing or failure caused from the replaced worn DMF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an exchange DMF to SMF is not available, it is an option to adapt similar alternative SMF even from petrol eng or wrecker or fix/lock your old DMF to achieve the SMF, changing cars is always a good option though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17619" LastEditorUserId="17619" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T03:10:54.377" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T03:10:54.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29964" CreationDate="2016-05-28T03:33:42.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There probably isn't a lot to worry about from hitting a speed bump at 15mph over the recommended speed. The shocks are designed to take a beating. Over time they do wear out but since they are still relatively new I would doubt you'd see much damage from a single incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that anything and everything on the car &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; sustain damage from a serious impact. Frames can bend, bolts can break, steel rods can bend etc. To remove all doubt, take a look underneath the car and check for damage, but if you don't spot anything, and the car seems to be driving fine, and you know you didn't scrape the bottom of your car, and the of course if the shocks are still responding well while driving and when you push down on the vehicle, then there is probably nothing to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to get the specs about the shock travel, your best bet would probably be to call the dealership&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastEditorUserId="17460" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T14:06:34.017" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T14:06:34.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T03:57:50.797" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tried burping radiator with no success. Water boils out but temp gauge reads normal??? 2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 H6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17652" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T03:57:50.797" Title="2005 Subaru Legacy Outback 3LR g H6" Tags="|subaru|cooling-system|water-pump|dashboard|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14878" CreationDate="2016-05-28T06:12:55.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lead-acid batteries contain a solution of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and water -- the solution is referred to as the battery's electrolyte. Adding a solute (in this case, H2SO4) to a solvent (in this case, H2O) will lower the freezing point of a solution. A fully charged battery has more H2SO4 than a discharged battery. The additional H2SO4 depresses the freezing point of the batteries electrolyte to around -70 °C&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, a discharged battery's freezing point rises to ~-10 °C. A discharged battery will freeze -- a charged battery will not freeze. A battery that has been frozen is very likely a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mathscinotes.com/2013/02/battery-freezing-math/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mathscinotes.com/2013/02/battery-freezing-math/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T06:12:55.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T08:34:38.810" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in the process of doing my best to overhaul an 88 Chevy Silverado Pickup 2500 V8 5.7L. I do not know much about cars, but am learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, long story short, the engine hoist I have (borrowed) does not lift the engine enough to remove it from the truck. I removed the hood, grill, and bumper (among many other things). Now I would like to remove the radiator support as well, in order to make removing the engine more possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drained the coolant and removed the radiator. I seemed to have to have already had a discharged A/C system, so I was also able to move the A/C condenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am almost ready to removed the radiator support, but the wiring harness is fed through the radiator support and I cannot seem to figure out how to get it through the driver side hole in the support. I managed to disconnect the ground and clips on the passenger side and feed it through the passenger hole, but am getting stuck on the driver side. The bulb housing from the headlights and parking lights are too big to fit through the hole in the radiator support as far as I can tell, especially with the other wires and hoses. There also does not appear to be a simple way to unplug the bulb housing from the wiring without potentially have to re-wire, which I am not sure I can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a small mini radiator looking device next to where the A/C condenser was that is connected to the power steering pump. I am not sure how to get this through the radiator support, and there is no way to disconnect one of the two hoses that are attached to it from either the pump or the item itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the mini radiator looking device and the bulb housing could fit through the hole if the other was not in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is much appreciated. I understand photos will prove helpful, however it is dark now here and I cannot get a good picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more than happy to provide any other information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17654" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T08:34:38.810" Title="Getting Wiring Harness through Radiator Support?" Tags="|radiator|power-steering|wiring|frame|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T14:59:14.360" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Edit] Assume all the latch linkages are broken. I've removed some of the inner door panel, but there is not much room to work, as I have to keep my wrist bent. Is there a technique for opening or even removing the door if the linkage is somehow broken &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; at the lock itself?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get this sucker open? The handle/latch assembly has been dented in by a minor accident, and the door is stuck shut. The handle has full range of motion, but the internals are jammed somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an exterior look at the dented-in handle assembly..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNJCO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNJCO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to remove the interior handle/lock, exposing the rod. Lifting up on the rod does nothing, even with aggressive force. I think I get resistance in the last %15 of the range of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opKNK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opKNK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately I can still get the window down. I managed to lasso the lever arm and pull up, hard, but it's useless. I don't feel any resistance either, which makes me think the metal linkage arm is just flexing, but not actuating the lock for some reason..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJPD2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJPD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter preformatted text here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and it's difficult to photograph, but I have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the interior door panel pulled away. It's enough to see more of the linkages. I'm &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt; I'm teasing the linkages in the proper direction, but no amount of strength on the linkage rods nor any amount of pushing I can muster is opening this door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the linkages are broken &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; where they meet the locking mechanism on the frame? If so, and realizing I can't contort my wrist or elbow enough to feel around near the frame, is there any other way to get this door open at this point? Any ideas what a body shop might try in the even of a T-boned door, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4509" LastEditorUserId="4509" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T20:33:45.737" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T20:33:45.737" Title="1996 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight: door handle/lock dented in, stuck shut" Tags="|locks|door|oldsmobile|dent|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T15:13:25.597" Score="6" ViewCount="3806" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are going to be out of town for 2 months, and one of our cars will be staying home and not getting much driving.  We have a Black and Decker Battery Maintainer that we were considering using to keep the battery fully charged.  Unfortunately, we don't have an enclosed garage: we can park our car under our back porch, so it won't be fully exposed to the elements, but it's not hermetically sealed either (and this is Virginia during the summer, so some heavy rains are unavoidable).  We don't have an actual all-weather cover for the car, but could cover the charger with a tarp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How seriously do we need to take the warnings in the manual to not use the charger in the rain?  How bad would it be to have the charger on the ground?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option would be just letting the battery sit, and hooking up the charger when we get back, which I have to admit sounds more reasonable to me, but I know could lead to some battery damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17656" LastEditorUserId="17656" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T19:01:37.210" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:20:13.540" Title="Is it better to hook up a Battery Maintainer for 2 months outside, or take our chances with the battery?" Tags="|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30210" CreationDate="2016-05-28T16:00:08.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the exact model of the trickle charger, but would suggest against using it and getting an actual battery tender instead. The difference is, the trickle charger will continue to charge, but at a really slow rate. This means, you can over charge the battery and cause damage to the battery with it. A battery tender will keep the battery in tip top shape, only charging it as is needed to keep the full charge. Using the tender will prevent boiling your battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you go this route, the tender is small enough you can enclose it under the hood of your vehicle, with just the extension cord sticking out from under the vehicle or wherever. You can usually completely shut your hood without issue. This allows everything to be completely contained without fear of someone coming along and messing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being here in VA myself, you can pick up a cheap tender at many places (Sears, AutoZone, Advance Auto, Harbor Freight, Walmart) for around $20. It's a cheap investment for any battery you are going to leave sitting for a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the warnings on your current charger, if it won't fit under the hood as suggested, I'd highly recommend not using it at any rate. Running it on the ground is not going to be a good thing either, due to the possibility of rain as suggested. If it fries, it could cause serious problems on your property. With you begin gone, you may come back to a house which isn't there anymore (extreme example, yes, but entirely possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T16:00:08.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T17:31:27.737" Score="5" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner where my low beams don't work but my high beams do work.  I've replaced the headlight bulbs and relay switch, and still the low beams don't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17660" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T21:05:10.180" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T00:17:47.400" Title="Low beams don't work but the high beams work in a 2002 Toyota Tacoma" Tags="|electrical|toyota|troubleshooting|headlight|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T18:10:02.060" Score="3" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do some Hawk engines have red letters on the case and some don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 of them that were purchased at the same time at the same dealer. One has the name Hawk on the case in red and the other is all black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17661" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T18:53:28.043" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T21:01:14.720" Title="New 2015 Hawk 250 Enduro" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30085" CreationDate="2016-05-28T19:04:58.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Those hoses are supposed to be that way&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most scooters and motorcycles have a few hoses for venting of various gasses coming out the bottom of the motorcycle/scooter behind the motor.  Possible uses for these hoses include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gas Tank Ventilation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carbon Filter emissions control ventilation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Float bowl overflow for carbureted vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Airbox water drain hose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those hoses weren't sabotaged by someone.  You have another issue with your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask another question and state all of your symptoms someone can hopefully assist you diagnosing and troubleshooting your vehicle to get it running again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T23:47:18.333" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:47:18.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30058" CreationDate="2016-05-28T19:07:48.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your spark plug was loose&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spark plug was loose and gone, based upon your comments, the coil did not pop out of your head, the sparkplug popped out of your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last change of the sparkplugs may have been the cause where this particular plug was not properly torqued down in your head.  If your threads are stripped in the head, which I doubt, then you have much bigger issues and will need to remove the head to repair the spark plug threads and then re-install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly torque a new spark plug into the head and put the end of wire coil back on it, go for a test drive.  I'm sure it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T19:07:48.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2016-05-28T21:01:14.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sometimes dealers do that&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked at a few MC dealerships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the dealership with work with a contract painter who would do things like add accents to the gas tank or paint a caliper on a bike to differentiate it.  This was pretty common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally they would do a custom pain job for the whole bike and of course sell it for a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is possibility in your case.  I can't think of another scenario.  I can't see them doing this and having two colors during the manufacturing process.  Honda doesn't work that way.  It's same, same as much as possible and cost reductions during manufacturing rather than cost additions.  Especially post financial collapse from 2008 and on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T21:01:14.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29934" CreationDate="2016-05-28T22:13:16.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Needle and seat issue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your needle isn't hitting the seat in the float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check for physical obstruction of the floats&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;always replace the needle and seat as a pair.  They fit together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ensure your floats actually float and do not have any holes in them&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you provide more information like the model of the bike we can provide a less generic answer perhaps.  Please include model number of the carb as well as information about the needle you purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T08:08:55.573" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T08:08:55.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36682" CreationDate="2016-05-28T23:33:39.030" Score="8" ViewCount="1630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, I had a big stone chip with growing rust. I thoroughly sanded it,  applied primer, and painted it. It wasn't meant to look good as I just wanted to prevent the rust expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after a year, the rust bubbled up again as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xL4Xq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xL4Xq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rust bubbling up through repair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I eliminate the persistent rust? Should I use either of the following products before painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rust converter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rust remover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if they are good with car body paint or which one is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12877" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T15:21:44.220" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T15:21:44.220" Title="Rust From Repaired Chip in Paint Didn't Go Away" Tags="|paint|rust|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-28T23:59:30.600" Score="0" ViewCount="2716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that when the gas combust it do so in millisecond. But I find it very hard to believe it goes though that entire process that fast. The piston is still a mechanical part and will add a lot of friction. So how long to it take to usually for a piston to go down and back up? I know this maybe hard so can you also give certain conditions as well or at least some type of guide to help figure this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T01:54:18.103" Title="How long do the entire combusting cycle take?" Tags="|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="54808" CreationDate="2016-05-29T00:15:31.140" Score="5" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago, I saw a documentary about engine efficiency where people were testing a pivoted, curved-path piston engine. The claim is that the standard piston engine, with straight up-and-down path, causes lots of friction with the walls while the piston travels through the chamber. This friction forces use of expensive rings, and ultimately reduce life span of engine block itself. It also limits linear speed of piston in order to prevent melting and engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative was to attach the piston to an axle in the top and make it follow an angular path through the chamber. They even displayed a prototype. But I can't find that on the web. If you know about it and can send references, I would greatly appreciate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, the engine was being tested for a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Added the sketch below to help. While sketching, I found that it requires a sliding window around the rod connecting to the axle, to prevent leaking of gas/liquid. That's probably the biggest weakness. Still I wish to find the team and prototype to confirm that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXh2f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXh2f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17664" LastEditorUserId="17664" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T19:45:19.717" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T08:51:40.443" Title="Pivoted curved-path piston engine" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|crankshaft|engine-load|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30221" CreationDate="2016-05-29T01:54:18.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;math it out.  we will use 3 RPM readings that will math out easily, and give a good idea of how fast things are happening at different engine speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;600 RPM&lt;/strong&gt; - This is about idle speed.  600 revolutions per minute (RPM) = 10 revolutions per second (RPS). Assuming this is a 4 cycle engine, so 2 revolutions per cycle, so 5 complete cycles per second.  Each cycle is 4 strokes, so 20 strokes per second.  The combustion stroke takes 1/20th of a second or 50 milliseconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3000 RPM&lt;/strong&gt; - This is about cruise speed.  50 RPS, 25 cycles, 100 strokes.  combustion stroke takes 1/100 seconds or 10 milliseconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6000 RPM&lt;/strong&gt; - This engine speed will be reached at wide open throttle.  100 RPS, 50 cycles, 200 strokes. combustion stroke takes 1/200 seconds or 5 milliseconds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T01:54:18.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-29T02:16:39.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small crack in the plastic part of a radiator. I first applied JB Waterweld, and that didn't work because it didn't bond to the plastic very well. So, I removed the Waterweld by scraping it off with a screwdriver and applied JB Plasticweld. I am going to let it cure overnight. The package doesn't list operating temperatures though. Think this will work well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17259" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T02:16:39.003" Title="Would JB Plasticweld work well for radiator repair?" Tags="|radiator|repair|plastic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30166" CreationDate="2016-05-29T03:44:25.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;so after pulling and checking each injector and reading all i could about this kinda thing, i found a few brief reference about the vehicle going into a 'safe mode', well that made me curious, because it sounded like what i had going on. so i just decided to unhook the battery for a awhile then try it. well it was running even rougher at start up after that, just struggling to stay running going from a real low idle to a very high one and really 'chuggin' as i am trying to keep it running by 'feathering' the throttle.   then it came to me,   i unhooked battery again   and later when i restarted it, it was running rough, exactly the same, really. but this time i did not touch the throttle i just let it keepo corrrecting itself, then after a few minutes it actualy started to smooth out  a few minutes later i was pulling out on a test drive. was it 65 mph in a blink of a eye, and i realized at that moment i had found the CURE.   all it needed was a chance to fix itself     lmao   ya right i dont buy that crap either   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17634" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T01:58:19.733" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T01:58:19.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30213" CreationDate="2016-05-29T05:26:53.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the wiring diagram the power is supplied to the bulbs through the relay and then one fuse for each bulb. If the high beams work then the relay and fuses are working. The lights are controlled by the light switch by switching the ground side of the circuit. The high and low beam filaments are selected by this switch. If one set of the filaments is inoperative look at the ground circuit and the switch in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T05:26:53.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30228" CreationDate="2016-05-29T08:29:03.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1290" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of DLC did Toyota's have before switching to OBDII?  What year did they switch to OBDII outside the United States?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T15:04:36.250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T17:05:33.660" Title="What kind of DLC did Toyota's have before switching to OBDII?" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30227" CreationDate="2016-05-29T17:05:33.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the two different types of connectors Toyota used for their DLC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrAS9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrAS9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The square one is marked DLC-1 and the round one is DLC-2. I believe DLC-1 was accessed under the hood. You can see the connection end in this picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ1X8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ1X8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector in this picture is connected to the left side strut tower. The round connector was (I believe) accessed from the driver's compartment. I'm not sure when companies switched over to OBD-II outside of the US, but believe it was for the most part around the same time as it occurred in the US (1996 is the start for OBD-II in the US). I would bet this was highly dependent upon if the particular vehicle model was exported to the US or not. Common sense would dictate a company would not engineer two solutions when one would do, but that is speculation on my part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T17:05:33.660" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2016-05-29T17:41:12.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you can do it with a traditional torque converter.  I've done it.  It's not smart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push by your buddy, no.  Push with another vehicle, yes - but as the other Steve M suggests you'll need the high side of 25-35mph to maybe make this happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the tranny fluid pump driven, you won't get TC proper fill, BUT there's usually enough residual fluid left in the TC to attempt this unwise stunt.  It;s the difference between a really good transmission fluid service and the ones we all actually did...  How many of us oldtimers removed the shield (back when you could) and rotated the TC,  pulled the plug, and drained the converter?  No flame here;  I'm as guilty as any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On edit:  I should qualify that as I'm talking old-school.  C5 or 727 era, early totally hydraulic systems, where you will always have some reverse power path back to the TC.  Modern TCM solenoid valve systems I doubt it, and I simply don't even know.  I think I remember working on something that was stuck in an &quot;emergency tow mode&quot; that purposely uncoupled the power flow path to prevent damage (likely dry pump burnout) during flat towing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T17:53:40.820" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T17:53:40.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30058" CreationDate="2016-05-29T18:16:27.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I'll bet you've suffered what most every Ford Triton engine owner has.  These engines blow plugs quite easily.  There was even a class-action suit(s) at one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to just &quot;rethread&quot;.  You have 3 options (but really only 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;buy as many different spark plug brands as you can, and carefully torque until you find one that grabs some.  Don't overtighten.  I've even had some luck in crushing the threads slightly oval in a vice.  This is totally shadetree, and only for the folks that can't possibly afford the $400 fix before due at work in the morning. Probably won't last, but gives you some time until #3.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy the taper thread repair kit and the special very long-nose plug that comes with it.   This may or may not last, depending how much original thread is left, but all the ones I have repaired had already attempted this fix and maybe got 2 months to a year.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have it properly rethreaded, and &quot;helicoiled&quot; (thread insert) for the original style and size plug.  This is an expensive kit, and not an average DIY job.  Check ALL the plugs, and replace them once a year regardless of mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want try try #2 or #3 on your own, here's a tip from an oldtimer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the piston to BDC, and fill the cylinder with foamy shaving cream (not gel) until it squirts out the plug hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THEN do all your tapping, thread inserting seating, test fit plug, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THEN remove the plug, put a shop vac over the open hole (might have to put a hose reduction on the nozzle, and suck out the shaving foam (and little bits of aluminum) while a helper SLOWLY hand cranks the cylinder back to TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean off the plug, away you go.  Good luck.  Sorry that happened but you are certainly not alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:16:27.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30210" CreationDate="2016-05-29T18:20:13.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the battery negative.  You'll lose radio presets and ECU learning, but nothing else.  I don't know what vehicle you have so it's hard to judge how difficult this will be, but I doubt much.  10mm wrench and 5 minutes.  A one-beer job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:20:13.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30177" CreationDate="2016-05-29T18:33:06.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can boost away almost indefinitely until the AFR goes lean or you start pre-detinating (knock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At which point you'll need a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once you get outside your turbo's compressor efficiency map, more heat, less VE, and a whole bunch of other concerns.  Time for a bigger turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going to run 93 pump, E85, meth/water spray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First post is spot-on; you need a good ECU tune (and great tuner) to realize any benefits from bolt-on mods.  Otherwise any power you perceive gained will just be a result of leaning out your AFRs, and eventually causing stress and damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just changing the CAI is likely to need a MAF remap.  Otherwise, lean and possibly boom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an expensive slippery slope (but fun).  Just ask me-I can barely afford to type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, please, please get a proper ECU flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T18:33:06.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36687" CreationDate="2016-05-29T19:45:59.433" Score="6" ViewCount="3341" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just never ends.  98 Mazda 626 GF 2L.  It cranks great, but there's no spark at any of the plugs and I can't connect to the ECU.  Coil pack is new, I've driven it maybe five times since I replaced it.  I've also been having a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20914/battery-light-wont-go-off-since-changing-battery&quot;&gt;low voltage from the alternator for a while&lt;/a&gt;, about 13.75v, but can't so far find any problem with the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kinda freakin out, thinking maybe the ECU has given up the ghost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is somewhere between a rant and wanting to have someone tell me that's it's likely &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an ECU problem... arg!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I need to check the pins coming into the coil from the ecu to see if a signal is coming in or not... just afraid of what the results will be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT May 31st, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I go out today to try and make some progress on this problem, and what happens?  The car starts right up and I am able to connect to the ECU / PCM with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I connected I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;0113 DTC&lt;/a&gt;.  I had this error a few months ago, but I cleared it and it didn't come back.  This time I cleared it, ran a KOEO test and it came back.  Cleared it and ran a KOER test and it came back.  This is the list of causes ( also for a few other DTCs ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Scvoa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Scvoa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went to look at the IAT connector and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmHHA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmHHA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire seems to be made of four strands, two of which are broken and probably making intermittent contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go look for a good connector from a junk yard and splice it in, &lt;strong&gt;however, I'm not sure this is really the source of the problem&lt;/strong&gt; for a few reasons.  If I completely disconnect the IAT sensor the car starts up just fine, so I don't think that frayed wire would cause an intermittent ECU problem, would it?  Looking at &quot;Cranks Normally But Will Not Start&quot; in the troubleshooting section of the WSM it does mention a few problems where a short to ground can be a cause, like with VREF and an &quot;IG&quot; line from the DLC, but I don't have a short to ground here, I've got a partial open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that's making me suspicious is an aftermarket keypad immobilizer that's been installed in addition to the factory key chip immobilizer.  I remember the previous owner saying he had disabled it because it had been causing him problems, however it is still physically wired into the system under the dash ( it's a nasty rat's nest of spliced wires under there ) and I'm wondering if maybe it's haunting me from the grave so to speak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still feeling like this might be related to the alternator problem since I think the voltage regulation on this model is done by the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT June 2nd, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I spliced in the new IAT connector, cleared the codes, ran the KOEO and KOER self tests, and so far so good.  Not sure what to make of it.  I was thinking of pulling the ECU out to visually inspect it, but maybe I'll just keep an eye on things in the mean time and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T16:03:46.910" Title="Cranks, but No Spark and Can't Connect to the ECU" Tags="|starting|mazda|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30156" CreationDate="2016-05-29T20:26:50.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm not understanding, but if you had the wheels &quot;installed&quot; then the person/shop that did that must have used some sort of tool, and if you paid for the lugnuts they should have given you this tool as it usually comes with a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it's not in the glovebox?  That's where I always threw the special socket when I did these kinds of installs.  But sometimes you forget to tell the customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do very little for security, as you can easily hammer on a cheap 3/4&quot; socket for thieving purposes.  That's how I get them off when the customer has lost the special tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you like the way they look with your wheels (nice, BTW) get the tool, but you might consider a hexagonal alternative, perhaps anozized in black, chromed, or whatever you like.  These will cause far less maintenance headaches in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T20:26:50.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30116" CreationDate="2016-05-29T21:04:39.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use proper hose without a problem.  Just make sure it's SAE J1532 or J1019 hose - it should be stenciled on the sides - most auto parts stores sell this &quot;transmission cooler line hose&quot; by the foot.  You'll likely need 3/8 or .325 ID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure there's 2-3 inches of overlap on each end of the cut metal.  Double clamp each end with quality clamps spaced about a half inch apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, done properly, will not &quot;blow tranny fluid all over the road&quot;.  It's far more likely the original pipes will rust out, and THAT will be the weak link fail.  In fact, Dorman makes replacements because this is a very common problem on that age of Dakotas.  And the parts are cheap, too - probably less than $75 for the pair.  Installation is not a breeze, however.  But it avoids the rust problem that might be headed your way as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I agree a perfectly proper job should be complete replacement, the cost-effective and &quot;just fine&quot; approach for that age of vehicle suggests patching using quality rated hose and clamps.  Note that the OEM arrangement has a rubber section (with crimps that often fail), since hard-mounted lines between the moving elastomer-mounted transmission to the chassis-fixed radiator would fatigue and fail metal lines in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T21:04:39.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-29T21:22:12.873" Score="5" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have been dealing with. Posted over on my vehicle specific board, but no one seems to have any idea. Instead of reposting everything hashed over there, I will post the original question and maybe someone can jump over and read my follow up. Any help appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking perhaps the relay is momentarily pulling too much from the ign circuit? Thanks again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/very-strange-electrical-issue.128887/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/very-strange-electrical-issue.128887/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;On my 74 SII rebuild. Still doing body work, and run it every time I work on it for a few minutes. Both batteries are charged, tested, and basically brand new. Anyways, I replaced ALL the gauges with after market, tying them all in to the original sending units, if required. The issue I am having is between the horn and the fuel gauge. Since I have a detachable steering wheel, I mounted the horn on the dash via a push button. I have four buss bars tucked behind the dash on the inside firewall- one is solely ground for all gauges and components, the other is solely batt 12 volt for radio, acc, etc. The third is solely ign on. The fourth is solely lights activated on - coming off the light switch - powering gauges/radio that have dim feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The push button goes from the 12v batt to the horn relay to the horn and grounds at the horn. The fuel gauge is connected to the original sending unit wire and is working, 12v goes to ign only buss bar, ground buss bar, and light (dim) buss bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never noticing it before today, if you turn the ign key all gauges come on - as supposed to. The fuel gauge reads how much I have, which I believe to be accurate since the percentage has been dropping between filling up, breaking in new engine and running periodically at shop. When I hit the horn button I notice that the fuel gauge (reading the correct amount) &quot;trips&quot; showing zero, then goes back to showing the correct amount. It seems that the action is in conjunction with the horn relay in the engine compartment. It seems to also happen when you let your finger off the push button, especially if you hit the button really quick (before horn can sound)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot figure out what is happening. Not worth pulling the entire dash - I can live with it, but was wondering what might be going on? No shorts, nothing, everything was meticulously wired, and double checked. Disconnected the ground from the horn, still happens, disconnected the hot going to the horn, still happens, the only thing being actuated is the relay which seems to be &quot;tripping&quot; the gauge momentarily before showing the correct amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts? Thanks.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the electrical schematic for those interested. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MA/MasterTechLee/2014-12-31_031614_2014-12-30_211152.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MA/MasterTechLee/2014-12-31_031614_2014-12-30_211152.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17676" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T19:42:41.567" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T19:42:41.567" Title="Electrical issue in vehicle - fuel gauge drops to zero when horn is activated" Tags="|electrical|fuel-system|horn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30239" CreationDate="2016-05-29T23:19:50.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theory 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your wiring diagram the horn relay has only 3 contacts; 12v, horn, button. This layout dictates that the horn button should ground the horn relay and not send it 12v. This is because the horn relay does not have it's own ground. Sending the relay power may cause things to behave strangely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theory 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sending unit is a very old style. There is only a sing wire. The sending unit is then grounded to something else, the tank, the body, something else. The ground between the horn and the tank may be shared. When the initial inrush of the horn happens the ground may develop a voltage drop. This voltage drop can cause the gauge to freak out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T23:19:50.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17053" CreationDate="2016-05-29T23:43:57.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a splined coupler where the steering shaft attaches to a u-joint prior to exiting the firewall (you should be able to see this under the steering wheel/firewall area) and going into the rack and pinion or steering box. Normally, to align the wheel to the tires you point the tires straight a head, loosen the coupler, pull the coupler off the splined shaft and re-orient the steering wheel, re-tighten, etc. If you are not familiar with this, or feel comfortable, I suggest you take it back. Plus you paid for a service, they should make it right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if this is steer by electric, I have no idea, I have not messed with those before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17676" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T23:43:57.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30244" CreationDate="2016-05-30T00:08:58.303" Score="12" ViewCount="2401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a second hand Toyota Sienna 4 months ago. Even though it is a 2009 with  100,000km on it, the interior had that &quot;new car&quot; smell to it, and held it for several weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four months later, the smell is gone, so I'm assuming that they sprayed something before the sell. Anyone knows what that could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12373" LastEditorUserId="12373" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T06:56:24.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T06:56:24.480" Title="Recreate new car smell" Tags="|toyota|smell|interior|used|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30243" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:08:21.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several products that claim to install a new car smell. Meguiar's G4216 New Car Scent Protectant is one of many that are available. Smell is a very subjective so reviews vary on these products. &#xA;Automotive detailers use products not available on the retail market; one of these is likely what you smelled in your used car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article on the subject.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caranddriver.com/features/secrets-of-that-new-car-smell&quot;&gt;Car and Driver on new car smell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T01:08:21.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:20:23.837" Score="3" ViewCount="3466" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Chevy Impala has no brake lights. Checked all the fuses, checked the brake switch and bulbs. I do have my 3rd brake light on the top of my trunk and I have all my other lights but no brake lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17679" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T02:39:47.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:36:57.560" Title="2003 Impala no brake lights" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30250" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:22:23.543" Score="4" ViewCount="11887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to remove the Alternator on my Nissan Sentra 2001. I believe I need to take the alternator belt off. It's tightly on the pulley - see picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQvCD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQvCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make the belt loose? I am told that there should be a tensioner bolt head and it has a very long thread which screws into the backside of the center bolt/nut that is 90 degrees of the center bolt/nut but I cannot find it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it in this picture? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O56jg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O56jg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17680" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:59:18.043" Title="How to replace Alternator out (2001 Nissan Sentra) [pictures inside]" Tags="|nissan|alternator|belt|serpentine-belt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26916" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:34:56.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;She had a mechanic take a look at it - the problem ended out being the camshaft sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T01:34:56.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30246" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:38:41.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the tensioner is to the left of the alternator - in the pictures above. Slightly loosen the main bolt on the tensioner - not too much. This will allow you to loosen the adjustment rod BEHIND the tensioner, which creates slack and loosens the belt. You should be able to see it - it will look like a threaded rod. Probably a good time to replace the belt and the tensioner, while you are in there... I know that is normal procedure on most vehicles... and the oil leak if possible. Oil will degrade the belt over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Adjusting-Nissan-Sentra-Serpentine-Belts-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Adjusting-Nissan-Sentra-Serpentine-Belts-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17676" LastEditorUserId="17676" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T01:46:36.840" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T01:46:36.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30252" CreationDate="2016-05-30T01:51:02.743" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 1997 Chevy Suburban, 4WD. &lt;em&gt;Occasionally&lt;/em&gt;, when turning right (usually from a dead stop) there is a distinct &quot;clunk&quot; sound that comes from below the drivers side floorboard (with an equally distinct &quot;clunk&quot; feel in the floorboard). I used to have a Nissan Maxima that had some bad control arm bushings, and it feels pretty similar to the Maxima when I'd go over bumps and the control arm would bang around in the stiff bushings. Recently there's been a similar (but different) sound that happens when turning left - especially if it's a hard left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure this is the part that's causing at least one of those noises, and I looked on AutoZone's website/repair guides, but I couldn't find something definitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this part called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Up close - the bushing is pretty much gone)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hEVC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hEVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what is this part?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little farther out. I have the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and took this from the rear of the drivers-side front wheel-well.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fc0wU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fc0wU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what is this part?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T02:20:41.867" Title="What is this part on a 1997 Chevy Suburban (4WD) [picture inside]?" Tags="|suspension|part-identification|suburban|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30246" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:00:51.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based off &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/2wqbs-change-belt-nissan-sentra-2001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this diagram&lt;/a&gt;, the adjusting bolt is not present in the pictures you provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/FixUrNissan/2009-12-21_005147_drive_Belts_1.8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nissan Sentra 2001 Belt Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like your Sentra has air-conditioning, which means that your belt tensioning mechanism sits above the power steering pump (leftmost belt-driven component).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:41.257" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T02:00:51.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:20:05.107" Score="12" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the flow-voltage mapping for the Bosch sensor utilized by my E39 M5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it curious that readings below 0.9 V correspond to negative flows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z6cyG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z6cyG.png&quot; alt=&quot;BMW E39 M5 MAF map&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that air can flow the other way (maybe through some sort of pressure wave that results from sudden throttle plate closure)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Given that this is a hot-film MAF sensor (essentially a hot-wire anemometer), how does it detect change in flow direction?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why should fuel management care about negative mass air flow? Assuming sudden throttle plate closure results in back flow, I would imagine that the throttle position sensor can be used to detect this scenario as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T09:42:47.803" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:42:47.803" Title="How is it advantageous for fuel management to detect negative mass air flow?" Tags="|engine-theory|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30249" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:20:41.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a sway bar link.  The usual symptoms related to this wear are a medium pitch clunk when going over small bumps and lessened body roll control on cornering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T02:20:41.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30246" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:33:12.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to get hold of a workshop manual; failing that, a Chiltons or Haynes manual for that car. I've just checked the Haynes, and it does show the Alternator replacement in some detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of major hints; firstly, you get much better access going in through the passenger wheel-well. Take the wheel off, and the plastic shield between the wheel-well and the engine compartment, and the alternator will be staring you in the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the alternator sits on top of the A/C Compressor. You'll &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you can work around it, but you can't. It has to be moved, so you can get to the alternator bolt correctly. Undo the four compressor bolts, and &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt; the compressor out of the way - do NOT disconnect any lines to the compressor, or you'll lose all refrigerant, the ozone layer will shrink a little, and somewhere, a small kitten will die (OK, not sure about the kitten).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T02:33:12.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:45:02.217" Score="2" ViewCount="1446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried everything got a new radiator, thermostat, put blocked seal permanent head gasket fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I started my car and let it run for 15 minutes, after that I see no antifreeze in the reservoir.. So I added some... I'm thinking everything is good, started it up let it run for some minutes,  but as soon I turn the car off all of the antifreeze is coming out of a hose that was not connected to anything. Just standing there watching all the antifreeze coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell if this hose is supposed to be connected to something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do I have to put antifreeze in the reservoir?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17681" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T02:57:29.663" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T10:20:22.343" Title="My 2004 PT Cruiser is overheating" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|overheating|pt-cruiser|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30254" CreationDate="2016-05-30T03:11:23.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is some air in the system that is caused by a leak. Or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take the radiator cap off, run at idle and watch the level there.  Add coolant at the proper mix so that the top of the core is always covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while the air should be removed.  But if there is a leak, you must fix this. Watch for bubbles.  When the bubbles stop, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run for 20 minutes and the top of the core is still covered with cooolant, than put the cap on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T03:11:23.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T03:48:50.303" Score="1" ViewCount="19225" Body="&lt;p&gt;98 gmc jimmy 4.3 liter. brake pedal to floor after ok previous day. eventually stops me although don't stop on dime. hubby replaced lines from mc back (rubber and metal) part of line. Tried to bleed after replacing and it wont, none of them. I know he had fitting all way open to bleed. He has been extremely busy and I cant get him to explain any more on what needs to be checked now or what else could be. I just cant drive like this anymore. He said tues cant wit 2 days. anybody please???? Need help so I can possibly get said part for him. Hopefully not MC as I know its a pain in the ass to replace. Anybody had this issue or any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17683" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T12:38:52.320" Title="brakes wont bleed after replacing lines from mc back 98 gmc jimmy" Tags="|brakes|gmc|jimmy|master-cylinder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2891" CreationDate="2016-05-30T03:50:01.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned rotaries and oil. 5w20 conventional is recommened most likely for fuel economy benefits but this is not the issue with durability. Rotary engines do infact use oil. Typically 1 quart every 3000 miles is normal. This is because the engine has a metering oil pump that directly injects oil into the rotor housings to lubricate the apex seals. The apex seals on the older rotaries were a different material than the RX-8 sintered seals. These sintered seals are what cause the problems with engine failures in RX-8's. Carbon (a natural by-product of combustion) hardens on the rotor housings and the seals can no longer 'seal' the combustion process. Before engine replacement on an engine with low compression Mazda recommends a de-carb procedure that helps remove the carbon build-up to restore compression. I've found that on an engine with marginally low compression this de-carb does sometimes work and can extend the life of a rotary. Also note that starting a rotary cold and shutting it off before it reaches operating temperature is a slow death to a rotary as flooding (raw fuel being dumped into the rotor housing) will cause excessive wear as the fuel washes away the oil it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the oil front, synthetics are not recommended by Mazda in rotaries as they were never extensively tested during development and the long term effects of apex seal durability is not known. Race teams do in-fact use synthetic oil but they also rebuild their engines regularly. Clean oil is the life blood of an engine and is especially important in a rotary, 3000 mile changes should be followed. The previous comment of running a rotary hard is correct. A good old fashioned highway tune-up, not lugging the engine in city traffic and allowing the engine to reach operating temperature before running it hard or shutting it off are your best defence against rotary engine failure. Contrary to popular belief rotaries can live a long life, 100,000 miles is not uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For someone not willing to live with the idiocyncracies and maintenance a rotary requires stay away. For those who know about and love rotaries nothing else will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 year Mazda Master Technician :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17684" LastEditorUserId="17684" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T04:04:03.280" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T04:04:03.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2016-05-30T04:23:14.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as detectable &quot;reversion&quot; airflow to a MAF.  Especially on a non turbocharged car.  The MAF has no clue about the direction of flow, only how much energy it takes to keep the wire or film heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that the &quot;negative&quot; aspect of your graph is ever seen.  Even at idle, you shoud see 2-5 g/s.  I wonder why the graph is kg/h... that seems like ugly units for a MAF that needs to respond instantly (hopefully). Potatos, Apples. Too lazy to convert. My pedantry, not yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, if your car is at idle, it must be using air.  Snap closure of a throttle butterfly at speed might cause some backflow, but again a MAF has no idea about the direction.  So this is meaningless.  Without knowing the BMW E39 Engine Control Unit (ECU) maps, I am certain 0% Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a cell (or cells) on the ECU map.  Cells which ignore all MAF information, &amp;lt;1.7v or not.  Your IDC (injector duty cycle) should go to zero (no fuel injection).  No air, no fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph implies a scaling, but you should not assume that every point on the graph is obtainable in running conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And everything I just typed is meaningless without tacit understanding of what the ECU does with this information.  So to answer &quot;why should fuel management care&quot; I would say it probably doesn't.  I would also say (again) that there is no such thing... google how hot film or hot wire works... there is no element of any type MAF (wire/film) that I am familiar with that senses direction of airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And actually, this is the crux of the problem.  MAFs are awesome, but limited.  In a turbo application, even more so.  The ultimate goal is to find the proper Air Fuel Ratio.  But even that is wrong...  we imagine a utopian sensor that would count free oxygen molecules (O2), not NOx or water, that we can use for go-fast combustion.  It should be termed Oxygen/Fuel Ratio.(Even &quot;fuel&quot; isn't right; are we talking 91 or 93 pump, E85 (flexfuel/alchol)?? Gotta count every oxygen and every carbon)  On a nice fast ride (actually anything), such a sensor doesn't exist--especially at 300-500 cfm.  So whatever MAF technology the Bavarians in Munich decided to use, it's probably top-notch.  I don't know where the graph came from, but &quot;negative&quot; airflow areas are not plausible.  Show me a below 1.7v reading on your working MAF on your running E39 and I'll eat my hat.  Yours too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not something to be concerned about.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On edit:   Forget every single thing you just read.  I am totally, utterly, completely wrong.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eine elektronische Hybridschaltung wertet diese Messdaten aus und ermöglicht     so die genaue Erfassung der durchströmten Luftmenge &lt;strong&gt;einschließlich der Strömungsrichtung.&lt;/strong&gt; ...  &lt;em&gt;A hybrid electronic circuit evaluates the measurement data and enables the accurate detection of the air volume, &lt;strong&gt;including the direction of flow.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from &lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&amp;amp;sl=de&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Frb-aa.bosch.com%2Fboaasocs%2F%3Bjsessionid%3D841BDF86E827B730FEFEB176C201459B.sundoro2%3Fccat_id%3D72&amp;amp;anno=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bosch MAF HFM5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the schematic you can see that the output signal operational amplifier is biased by &lt;em&gt;multiple&lt;/em&gt; temperature-sensing resistors, in different places on the film.  So it knows which part of the film cools first, in a way.  It can sense the direction of slightly reversed airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've got hat sauce to pick out.&lt;/strong&gt;   As far as the &quot;why&quot;, I can only speculate (&lt;em&gt;gee, great track record so far Steve&lt;/em&gt;) that this MAF behavior might be useful in a turbocharged application.  After eating much crow, I still stand by my assertion that there will be little to no reversion airflow on a Normally Aspirated engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On edit edit:  A better [speculation] might be now you have capability for a closed loop electronic Idle Air Controller, able to deal with a wide range of operating conditions, yielding potentially lower idle emissions, even on an Open Loop cold start--which has traditionally been a very difficult task to do well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T18:02:02.490" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T18:02:02.490" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30257" CreationDate="2016-05-30T04:41:25.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With that much line replaced, it's going to take some effort to bleed.  Somebody has to sit and pump the brake, while somebody else works each bleeder nipple starting  at the furthest from the MC (probably right rear) to the nearest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to slightly crack all nipples on all calipers (rear cylinders probably on a 98 Jimmy) and just let them drip.  Can't let the MC reservoir go dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the master cylinder went dry, the best bet is clean tubing from the left front nipple dumping back into the reservoir.  Pump your heart out until there are no more bubbles.  Then bleed as normal, all four wheels.  Twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a scan tool with ABS bleed capability, then take the vehicle to someplace safe and slippery (wet grass, slick road, mud) and do some extreme panic stops where you can feel the ABS engaging (pulsing in the brake pedal) a half dozen times.  Then bleed all four again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last part is because I'm anal... honestly you just need a proper bleed and all will be well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T04:41:25.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30254" CreationDate="2016-05-30T10:20:22.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cars of this vintage, there were two different coolant overflow designs in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One design used a simple system, with an overflow bottle. There was a single hose that ran from the top of the radiator to a catch bottle.  For this system the radiator cap has a fancy double seal system.  One seal holds pressure to 13psi.  Above that anything else goes into the catch / overflow bottle.  The other seal in that cap uses a very light spring.  This seal functions after your car is shut off about 8 hours or so, and has time to cool down.  This seal allows coolant to return from the overflow bottle back into the radiator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other design uses a coolant bottle as in process reservoir.  Generally this bottle is mounted high in the engine compartment.  It will have a high pressure sealing cap.  Generally in this system there will not be a cap on the radiator.  In this system coolant flows thru the bottle all the time.  Its pretty easy to see the coolant level, and this design precludes air bubbles from forming inside the engine from poor fill procedure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which system is in your car.  Note: One thing that would help here is for you to edit your question to add a photo of your engine compartment and a photo of the hose you are looking at.  Possible that you can get access to a cell phone with a camera?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendation: Purchase a $30 Chilton or Haynes Paper Repair Manual.  From your description you've easily spend more than that on parts you probably didn't need. That manual will show you in pictures what parts go where.  There shouldn't be an unattached hose for your 2004 coolant system.  (A 1960 system, yes, but not 2004)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand your comment about &lt;code&gt;put blocked seal permanent head gasket fix.&lt;/code&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What keeps a system cool is good airflow thru the radiator, and a completely filled coolant system with the proper hoses and pressures.  I'd check that the coolant pressure cap is functioning correctly.  (The cap maintains a 13 psi pressure inside the system.  @ 13psi water boils around 241 degrees F or so... and this helps the car engine stay cooler.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The service manual will tell you how to test the coolant pressure cap, and how to test that the cooling fan is working correctly.  It will also tell you how to fill the coolant system to bleed off the internal air pockets in the head of the engine.  Its not as simple as opening up the fill port and pouring in distilled water.  Oops, you are using 50/50 antifreeze an distilled water aren't you?  If not, that would be bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a whole lot of questions in this group on generally good coolant practices. Do a search for &lt;code&gt;[coolant]&lt;/code&gt;,  &lt;code&gt;[overheating]&lt;/code&gt;, or  &lt;code&gt;[cooling-system]&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T10:20:22.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30245" CreationDate="2016-05-30T11:36:57.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On that year Impala the lower stop lights pull power from the hazard switch and from there to the multi-function switch. You'll need to pull steering column covers and check for power out of the multi-function switch on the yellow and dark green wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power on either wire, check the turn signal fuse.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the fuse is OK check for power from the hazard switch to the multi-function switch on the purple wire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have power to the multi-function switch but nothing out, replace the multi-function switch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have power to the hazard switch but nothing out, replace the hazard switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the power side is OK check the ground side at the bulb connector. Pull the bulb and check for ground on the black wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have ground, inspect the harness and repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:36:57.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30246" CreationDate="2016-05-30T11:53:49.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different year same engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F05ve.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F05ve.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBdBn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBdBn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the idler pulley nut. And per the posted image loosen the adjuster to remove the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to remove the AC compressor to R&amp;amp;R the alternator on the 1.8. You can remove the fan shroud to access the lower bolt on the alternator and pull the alternator through the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T11:59:18.043" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:59:18.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:15:58.403" Score="1" ViewCount="1921" Body="&lt;p&gt;*****update*****&#xA;We have checked timing, grounds, sensors, everything suggested. New idle control valve, and reset computer. Truck turns over- wont start. Seems like our only option is to replace the PCM? any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a used engine in my 03 dodge ram 1500 (3.7). Before putting it in I changed the oil pick up tube, oil pump, belts and all the seals. It started up right away, drove it down the rode and it ran fine for about a mile then died. Towed it back home and now it is backfiring and will not stay running. Any ideas what the problem could be? it sounds like the timing is off but I'm not sure if there are other problems that should be checked out first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="16666" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T14:09:31.017" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:20:06.587" Title="2003 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 backfires and won't stay running" Tags="|engine|dodge|misfire|ram|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:27:12.630" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 sebring is over heating , there is no sign of water in oil,but a little milky film in the coolant reservoir . What are the possible causes. we let the car run at idle about 15 min to get the cooling fans to kick on , the engine is one of the quietest I've heard &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17690" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:54:17.887" Title="2005 sebring overheating" Tags="|overheating|sebring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30267" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:54:17.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The milky film is likely to be oil in the water. I'd say Head Gasket - a recognized problem on Sebrings, usually at around the 100,000 mile mark. On a Sebring, that's quite an expensive little job unless you can do the work yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:54:17.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:54:46.597" Score="4" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a Maruti Esteem engine with a dual carburetor on an engine dyno and everything was already installed when I joined this lab. We seem to have a problem when trying to fire the engine. 1st and 2nd cylinder are not combusting at low loads and 3rd and 4th are. I know this by looking at the temperature readings at individual cylinders(have installed individual temperature probes in every runner in the exhaust manifold, lambda sensors are not available at the moment). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When running the engine at high loads, all the cylinders are firing (again, I know this by checking the temperatures at the exhaust manifold). I am confused on why certain cylinders in a carbed engine would not run at low loads and then would run at high loads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am a newbie in carburetors and this might be my chance to learn. I can post pictures of the setup tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be deeply appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: Here are the pictures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uxn6P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uxn6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pHsh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pHsh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastEditorUserId="16936" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T04:18:26.250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T04:18:26.250" Title="1st and 2nd cylinder not combusting in dual carburetor'red setup" Tags="|engine|carburetor|misfire|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T18:42:21.707" Score="7" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1988 Suzuki LS650 Savage from someone who jumped it off with running car. Put a new battery in it and now I can't get any power. No lights or anything.  What do I need to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17695" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T22:00:03.950" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T22:00:03.950" Title="No power to my 1988 LS650 Suzuki with new charged battery" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|suzuki|ls650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30273" CreationDate="2016-05-30T19:04:51.503" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't be too crazy.  You will probably need a multimeter to test things.  (If you watch the specials carefully, there is at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GvAju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one tool outlet that gives these away as special coupon deals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start the journey with the service manual.  It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://suzukservicemanuals.com/suzuki-ls650-savage-boulevard-s40-service-repair-manuals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out section #6, electrical.  Your system is pretty simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJOsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJOsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LS650 electrical schematic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of switches, a fuse, a module or two and you've got it...  Use the volt meter to read DC voltage at each point along the way (black lead clipped to ground, probe each touch point with the red lead...)  I see a fuse, an ignition switch, a kill switch, a starter button and a clutch switch in the circuit.  I'd start with testing those.  And it looks like no kick stand switch on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical troubleshooting for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a volt ohm meter (also called a multimeter)  With this tool you can test voltage, test resistance, test batteries (including all the batteries in your tv remotes in the house!)  You don't need to spend a whole lot of money here.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the multimeter on DC (Direct Current) Voltage setting. You will want 20 volts (or what ever makes sense for your multimeter. You want the next higher value than 14 volts DC.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the black lead in the ground / COM port. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the read lead in the V / OHM / mA port.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clip the black lead securely to the negative terminal on your battery.  Use an ACCO clip to hold it secure.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the red probe. Touch both sides of each of the fuses in your system. If both sides read 12 - 13 volts you are good, and the fuses are good.  If one side is 12v and the other side = 0 volts, that means the fuse is dead and should be replaced.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now move up to the ignition switch. Can you touch both input and output to that switch? Same test. With the key turned on, do you see 12 volts on both sides of the switch?  If so, it's good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you see the pattern here?  Rinse and repeat.  Move along each step of the way testing things.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all you have is a test light, that will work, kinda sorta.  You clip one lead to battery ground the other is same as your red probe. The problem is, you won't be able to do any next steps testing if that is required  (like reading resistance over a particular element when it is removed from the circuit.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The one thing about a test light that is pretty cool.  I've got one with a really sharp dart point on the end. I can easily pierce wiring cover to do a quick test without having to disconnect anything.  Handy for things like that ignition switch, or the kill switch. You can pierce the wire five inches in front of the switch.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know your results by editing your original question.  Photos will help others with the same problem in the future.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@DanielRaines  Edit #2:  Followup.  I'm looking at that diagram, and my own experience. If not the switches and fuses on that diagram then it must be something else on that diagram.  I will say, I remember all the troubles I had with an old Suzuki RF900R.  I had to pull the spark plugs, clean and dry them frequently as fix for my own no start. Possible that is an issue for you as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T18:20:59.073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T18:20:59.073" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30332" CreationDate="2016-05-30T19:06:31.573" Score="8" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to install a semi-permanent 500 watt inverter connected to the car battery for greater power delivery. The battery is in the passenger area, so there's no need to run wiring through the firewall. I plan to connect the inverter's ground to the body and the positive directly to the battery with a fuse inline. Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm concerned about leaving the inverter on when the car is parked and draining the battery. How hard would it be to wire the inverter so that it is only enabled when the engine is running, or at least when the accessories are on? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the inline fuse rating match the inverter rating, or are there other factors to consider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of connector should I use to allow quick (safe) disconnect of the inverter leads so I don't have to take the ring terminals off the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I find out the car's alternator rating to ensure I don't overload it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17696" LastEditorUserId="17696" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T21:27:55.260" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:09:58.140" Title="Semi-permanent power inverter" Tags="|electrical|alternator|power-outlet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30280" CreationDate="2016-05-30T19:43:22.257" Score="1" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might have bent the front axle of my motorbike. How can i check if a wheel axle is straight? I'm looking for tips on how to do this in case i don't have dedicated tools available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:23:54.103" Title="How can I check if a wheel axle is straight?" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|alignment|axle|tips-and-tricks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30279" CreationDate="2016-05-30T19:45:53.507" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to remove the alternator from my 2001 Nissan Sentra. I have taken the belt off, have taken a screw out of each the left and right side (looking from the front of the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like at least one more screw probably needs to come out... I cannot tell where it is. Here is visual of what I am talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Gu5IC0Mg9bU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/Gu5IC0Mg9bU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17680" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T20:43:01.853" Title="Missing a bolt to take out to remove alternator 2001 Nissan sentra" Tags="|nissan|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3110" CreationDate="2016-05-30T20:13:29.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is Renault Clio Campus 1.5 dci 2007, front Left Coil spring is broken. I bought 2 and changed the broken one today. it seems ok but I am going to change the other tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not get any help it took 2-3 hours to remove and replace the spring because the I had to compress it manually. with hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is only 3 bolts (nuts) need to be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am changing both because the NCT (MOT) might fail for headlamp alignment; the height may slightly vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cost of Spring varies, €21.00 to €67.00 + each (2 x 67 = €134). I bought a pair (2) in ebay for £26.00 (€35.00) delivery Free to UK; £12 to Dublin Ireland.&#xA;£26.00 in UK the same brand name in Ireland cost €67.00 each i.e €134.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17697" LastEditorUserId="17697" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T21:25:42.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:25:42.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30277" CreationDate="2016-05-30T20:43:01.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a long bolt underneath that the alternator pivots on to adjust drive belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sure you have this out, the alternator is simply cocked on the mounting ears and jammed.  It may take some wiggling and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gentle persuasion&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T20:43:01.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30276" CreationDate="2016-05-30T21:23:54.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You would want to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicator_(distance_amplifying_instrument)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dial indicator&lt;/a&gt; and a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=vblock%20precision%20tool&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=663&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi4obC63YLNAhUJ22MKHfsoD28Q_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vblocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to understand the amount of run-out you may have on your axle you will want to be able to measure the amount of run-out and you have on the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could roll it back and forth on a flat surface to get a general idea if the axle is bent but ultimately, to fully understand the issue empirically, you will need to measure the run-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool pair will allow you to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tgEcW.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tgEcW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer of your bike will have the service limits of runout listed in the shop manual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:23:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30290" CreationDate="2016-05-30T21:44:46.007" Score="5" ViewCount="2883" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's '04 Acura TSX began having issues starting towards the end of last summer. It would turn over just fine, but took 5-10 seconds to actually start running. The problem was intermittent - some days, it would start fine, other days were problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem went away for the winter, and came roaring back this week in the returning summer heat, leading us to conclude that the problem was heat-related. Several folks online suggested that Hondas and Acuras often have trouble with their fuel pump relays in the heat, and suggested that replacing the fuel pump relay might be a good start to diagnosing the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After finding this, I've taken some diagnostic steps that have resulted in the car not starting at all. I'm wondering if anybody can shed some light. Here's what I've done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the fuel pump relay, hooked it up to a 12V power source, and checked that the circuit was completed as it should have been. (This was the suggested method for checking that a relay was working.) The relay closed once, but I could not get it to close again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the original fuel pump relay back in (after testing). The car did not start at all at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchased an aftermarket relay, which turned out to be incorrect (auto parts store had wrong part in the box). I inserted this, and the car did not start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discovered that the part was boxed improperly, went back to the parts store, and had them change it out for the correct part. Popped it in. Still no dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Following this document from Acura &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/content/manual_gen1/Engine/Fuel%20Supply%20System.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/content/manual_gen1/Engine/Fuel%20Supply%20System.pdf&lt;/a&gt; I measured voltage between pin 3 of the fuel pump relay socket and ground. Did the same for pin 1. Got a solid 12v both times, suggesting there is no problem with the main relay, or the fuel pump fuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I'm struggling to think what might be going on. Perhaps I somehow burned out the original relay when testing it (not really sure how that's possible, but seems to fit what's going on). Perhaps the aftermarket fuel pump relay is not a good match and doesn't work well (I've got a used OEM on the way now). Perhaps inserting the incorrect relay that was boxed improperly fried something? Perhaps the fuel pump was the problem all along, was already on its last legs and just happened to die right as I was swapping out the relays (seems awfully coincidental...)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. I'm at a loss for how unplugging a relay and plugging in an aftermarket replacement would leave my car failing to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T05:38:01.810" Title="Diagnosing fuel pump relay on 2004 Acura TSX" Tags="|electrical|relay|acura|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28766" CreationDate="2016-05-30T21:52:23.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you port tune a Mazda 13B on your kitchen table with a dremel tool?  Yes.  I've done it.  Better said, I &lt;em&gt;tried&lt;/em&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you expect the apex seals to last any time at all using &quot;free&quot; instructions from the internet?  Not a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's plenty to be gained, but I doubt nearly as much as an Otto cycle due to the speed and efficiency of uncovering a port rather than opening a valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T21:52:23.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T22:50:42.033" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 heritage has over 48,000 miles on it and is making a lot of noise so I would like to replace it with a 2003 road king motor. Would it line up and bolt in without any trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17699" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T22:57:13.673" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:47:26.250" Title="I need to replace an engine in my heritage" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2016-05-30T23:12:11.827" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On older cars i strip and clean off all parts replace all seals and gaskets and replace damaged / worn parts as not everyone finds it economically viable on older cars depending on its value. &#xA;Also its possible the fault may be electrical on vehicles fitted with shift soloniods  / speed sensors (4HP22EH/4L30E etc.        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17701" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T23:12:11.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30291" CreationDate="2016-05-31T00:18:11.097" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that it may be easier/cheaper to us fossil fuel but  hypothetically could hydrogen gas be effective as a fossil fuel replacement for internal Combustion Engines? Would we need to care more of it and or use more of it during the combustion stage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S I'm not using hydrogen gas as a fuel just wanted to know if its possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T21:37:57.347" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:22:52.213" Title="Could Hydrogen Be Used as a Fuel?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-tank|combustion-cycle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-31T02:13:39.160" Score="4" ViewCount="7157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions and they may be related, but I'll pose the most important question first. A friend owns a 2006 Chevy Malibu. Recently the running lights began randomly turning on when the car was off. Sometimes they would turn off, otherwise they would stay on and drain the battery. The lights switch is in the off position, and the interior lights are off. Why are they turning on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question, which may be connected. When driving and attempting to turn on the left (I think only left) blinker, the blinker stick (sorry, I'm not sure of the correct name) will not stay in the on position, and needs to be held in the on position for the blinker to work. Why is the blinker stick not staying in the on position? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my questions are clear. I have done some research and found that this year Malibu is within the year groups that have electrical issues causing things like the running lights issue to happen. These issues seem to be traced back to the BCM. With that being said, are there other options for why the lights would turn on other than a faulty BCM? Or are these issues possibly due to poor connection issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the BCM is the cause of the running lights issue, could it also be the cause of the blinker issue as well? I have done some research and it seems that the blinker issue could be caused by a separate issue, a faulty blinker switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this makes sense and is the correct thought process to begin diagnosing the issue(s). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17702" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T16:10:01.700" Title="Why do the running lights turn on when the car is off?" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28597" CreationDate="2016-05-31T04:24:32.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally finished the project. I made a power cable using this part from Digikey and its working great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/42474-3/A27885CT-ND/456871?WT.v_sub=1717195&amp;amp;WT.mc_id=em_TEA1605A.US.Send&amp;amp;WT.z_email=7020_TEA1605A00US_tepurchasedpart&amp;amp;mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWlROa05EYzRZVGMyTmpabSIsInQiOiJmUkFZeTlhTkcxRDA1ZXdvd1k0em9NRlEwdkR2TCs3NXFOaElRRU5naDlQdngwRzNlSlJUeVRiNHdjcDhaUWswczFRT2J1ZWt3Y0MxeDRJWXh3ZFlNZk11R0VTcytGT3N2Tk5OakgycTQ5OD0ifQ%3D%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/42474-3/A27885CT-ND/456871?WT.v_sub=1717195&amp;amp;WT.mc_id=em_TEA1605A.US.Send&amp;amp;WT.z_email=7020_TEA1605A00US_tepurchasedpart&amp;amp;mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWlROa05EYzRZVGMyTmpabSIsInQiOiJmUkFZeTlhTkcxRDA1ZXdvd1k0em9NRlEwdkR2TCs3NXFOaElRRU5naDlQdngwRzNlSlJUeVRiNHdjcDhaUWswczFRT2J1ZWt3Y0MxeDRJWXh3ZFlNZk11R0VTcytGT3N2Tk5OakgycTQ5OD0ifQ%3D%3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16600" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T04:24:32.340" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-05-31T04:24:32.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30281" CreationDate="2016-05-31T05:38:01.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power in the in pins 1 and 3 proves that fuse 19 is OK and that the PCM will turn on PGMFI relay #1 and further that said relay will supply power to the fuel pump relay (PGMFI relay #2). It does not prove that the relay is good. &#xA;My next tests would be apply power to Pin #2 and see if the fuel pump activates. If not repair the pump. If the pump works check to see if the PCM connects pin 4 to ground for two seconds at key on and all the time during cranking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel pump failures are very rare in this model but anything is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link you provided is the OEM service manual test series for the fuel pump and its circuit. It goes the long way around to find the fault. But it will get you there if you follow all the steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T05:38:01.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2016-05-31T07:53:12.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use hydrogen gas, yes. The main problem is that it is not easy to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hydrogen (about 95% of all hydrogen used today) is produced by partial oxidation of methane and coal gasification, with some from biomass gasification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tiny amount is produced by electrolysis of water (but it uses a lot of power to do so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can use anything that combusts to drive a combustion engine (although it would need to be re-engineered to fit the combustion profile of hydrogen - speed of combustion, temperatures etc are different) but you wouldn't do it this way as it is less efficient than hydrogen fuel cells, and too expensive/difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T07:53:12.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:12:50.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen is an ideal gas to be used for combustion, as there are no harmful emissions byproducts if the combustion (combination of hydrogen and oxygen) is at the proper ratio.  You just make pure water, which is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several vehicles and several vehicle companies which have explored the concept of pure hydrogen as a combustible fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engineering challenge consists of how to transport, refuel, and safely carry large amounts of compressed hydrogen in the vehicle &quot;fuel&quot; tank.  Someday this may be possible, but it is quite difficult.  The Hindenburg disaster has forever made clear the hazards of large amounts of highly flammable hydrogen in a vehicle. (Although that hydrogen was used to create a lighter-than-air vehicle, not INTENDED for combustion.) That was in 1937, and almost 80 years later hydrogen is still just as flammable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T08:12:50.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:17:06.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the switches in your &quot;turn signal stalk&quot;  (the lever on the side of the steering wheel you describe with the &quot;blinker stick&quot; problem) are damaged.  This may cause all sorts of lights on/off issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Body Control Module &quot;BCM&quot; on GM cars like your Malibu control every single thing from security, radio codes, cluster (gauges), and ashtray contents.  There could be a contribution to your problems by the BCM, but I would fix the turn signal stalk first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T08:17:06.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30300" CreationDate="2016-05-31T09:14:26.280" Score="1" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to boost 1.2 litre petrol engine of my hatchback.&#xA;What are possible ways for it except adding a supercharger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17706" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:10:20.830" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:10:20.830" Title="how to boost petrol engine of a small hatchback" Tags="|engine-theory|small-engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29964" CreationDate="2016-05-31T09:47:19.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relax!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car is designed to take MUCH MUCH more substantial punishment than what you have explained here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very difficult to determine the suspension travel distance of a particular car but be rest assured, since you have a fairly new car this small incident should not be something you should be worried about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have almost done a rally car type jump on one of the monstrous speed humps with 5 passengers on my 2002 small cheap hatchback with everything bottoming out, I pulled aside and checked, everything was good, no damage done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6cGRA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6cGRA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;I don't own this image, it's a Google search&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2023-02-21T04:52:51.040" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T04:52:51.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2016-05-31T10:46:57.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen has been used as a fuel in various experiments. The largest-scale experiment I'm aware of is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_Hydrogen_7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMW Hydrogen 7&lt;/a&gt;, a 7-series V12 produced from 2005-2007. About 100 were built.&#xA;This engine could be switched from gasoline to hydrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in fuel consumption is largely due to the different energy density with gasoline (petrol) yielding 34.6 MJ/L and liquid hydrogen yielding 10.1 MJ/L. Based on these energy density figures, one would expect 47.6 L/100 km for hydrogen based on 13.9 L/100 km for gasoline (petrol); which is very close to the stated 50.0 L/100 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big challenge with hydrogen is storing it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrogen fuel is stored in a large, nearly 170 litre (45 gallon),[6] bi-layered and highly insulated tank that stores the fuel as liquid rather than as compressed gas, which BMW says offers 75% more energy per volume as a liquid than compressed gas at 700 bars of pressure.[7] The hydrogen tank’s insulation is under high vacuum in order to keep heat transfer to the hydrogen to a bare minimum, and is purportedly equivalent to a 17-metre (56 ft) thick wall of polystyrene Styrofoam.[8]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stay a liquid, hydrogen must be super-cooled and maintained at cryogenic temperatures of, at warmest, −253 °C (−423.4 °F). When not using fuel, the Hydrogen 7’s hydrogen tank starts to warm and the hydrogen starts to vaporize. Once the tank’s internal pressure reaches 87 psi, at roughly 17 hours of non-use, the tank will safely vent the building pressure. Over 10–12 days, it will completely lose the contents of the tank because of this.[9]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tank is large and heavy, and only a tiny fraction of its weight is fuel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrogen fuel tank holds roughly 8 kg (18 lb) of hydrogen, enough to travel 201 kilometres (125 mi). The curb weight of the Hydrogen 7 is roughly 250 kilograms (550 lb) heavier than the 760Li...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third method is storage in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal hydride&lt;/a&gt;. IIRC Mercedes experimented with that in the 1980s, but their fuel tank reportedly cost over $100,000 making it unpractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performance also suffers when running on hydrogen. The conventional BMW V12 develops 327 kW. The hydrogen car was limited to 191 kW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is powered by a 6.0 litre V12 engine capable of running on both premium gasoline and hydrogen fuel. It is rated at 191-kilowatt (260 PS; 256 hp) and 390 N·m (290 lb·ft) of torque using either fuel.[4]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T10:46:57.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30304" CreationDate="2016-05-31T13:00:15.417" Score="119" ViewCount="67259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in 2014 someone broke the right side window of my VW Golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in a hurry and short on cash so I &quot;temporarily&quot; cut a 4 or 5mm thick piece of plexiglass ($8), bent it with hot air and placed it in my car thinking that a few weeks later when it will be worn out I would replace it with a proper window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been closing in two years and it is still crystal clear (which is why I kinda forgot about it), though with microscratches if you look really close. Still transparent as ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm bringing this up because yesterday two guys on a bike attempted to steal my briefcase. Stopped right next to me on a red light and one of them tried to smash through the glass with a hammer. The tool bounced right off the window and hit the driver of the bike on the helmet. They almost fell and fled ungracefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a very long time I thought that plexiglass is not fit for automotive purposes but now I am reconsidering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the windshield (which would degrade faster due to direct impact of microparticles), what do you think are the reasons that plexiglass is not considered for car windows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastEditorUserId="16521" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T11:42:55.207" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T08:06:47.830" Title="Why is plexiglass not used for car windows?" Tags="|windshield|window|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30294" CreationDate="2016-05-31T13:10:58.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the volume of your engine is fixed and your air pressure is fixed as well your only way of getting more power output is by playing with air temperature, fuel type and controller.&#xA;Cold air intake would increase the mass of air that enters the engine and thus produce more pressure during combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high flow catalyst and exhaust would allow the gases to exit the engine with less resistance (also contributing to the overall power output). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your engines controller, you could reprogram it for performance though that would require a significant level of experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally burning a gas with a higher energy density would achieve an increase of power output. Burning methane for example at the &lt;strong&gt;same rate&lt;/strong&gt; as petrol should &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt;  give you more power as methane has 55,5Mj/Kg while petrol is at 46,4Mj/kg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastEditorUserId="13150" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T13:31:48.567" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T13:31:48.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-31T13:41:05.870" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Honda accord. The other day I had it started and turned it off went to start it up again and nothing just a click. When I go to start it the battery indicator light comes on and will not try to turn over.my shifter is locked in park, my windows will not roll down, sun roof will not open.but on the other hand the a/c comes on, the lights work,and the radio works.I know its not the starter,I checked all my fuses in and out the car. I need help can some one tell me what's wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T20:26:44.623" Title="1997 Honda accord will not start" Tags="|honda|starting|shifting|power-windows|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2016-05-31T13:54:10.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes but it would be impractical for Internal combustion engines. Though hydrogen has a very high energy density per kg, producing it, compressing it and storing it just to lose 70% of it's potential energy as heat losses makes little sense. This is why most hydrogen vehicles use fuel cells. Their higher efficiency (up to 60%) combined with the high efficiency of electric motors (up to 92%) is more viable. Even at this point however a diesel engine is still a more competitive option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T13:54:10.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-05-31T13:54:30.830" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of how it reacts in a collision. Auto glass is designed to shatter into small bits that are fairly dull, as opposed to large, sharp daggers. In the US, your car must be outfitted with glazing material that meets certain specs, and material type is not specified. If anyone could get plexiglass to satisfy those specs, I am sure it would be lower cost and popular. So I assume plexiglass cant meet the specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, might have to do with the gasses released if it is melted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, over time plastic fogs from UV. Most headlights these days are plastic. One of the first things some enthusiasts do is replace them with glass. When you look at cars barely 10 years old with fogged and pitted headlights, that is exactly what plexiglass would look like it it was used on the windows.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastEditorUserId="12320" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T16:27:07.150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T16:27:07.150" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-05-31T16:04:28.887" Score="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass is flammable. While it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plexiglas.net/product/plexiglas/en/about/faq/Pages/fire-behavior.aspx#faq_0_0&quot;&gt;doesn't release&lt;/a&gt; toxic gases or excessive amounts of smoke, it is still rated B2 (normally flammable) and thus forbidden as interior material in motor vehicles, including windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.302&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a relevant US standard if you're interested in details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collision behaviour mentioned by Thomas is also a crucial property, especially for bigger pieces like windows. If that guy on a bike had a bigger hammer, he could have popped your window inside the vehicle, where its shards would have released their kinetic energy by hurting the driver and the passengers. The same thing could have happened on a side collision with another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T17:29:52.580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T17:29:52.580" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-31T17:04:08.503" Score="4" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know almost nothing about cars, I have an 05 Vauxhall Corsa 1.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I had to brake hard, like the hardest I've ever braked, but it wasn't full foot down. As I stopped, I noticed a large puff of smoke from my front right tyre and an instant burning smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It dissipated after a while and has been fine for two days, the car handling and breaking feels normal. I assumed that I just made the breaks worked hard during the fast stop, maybe worn/burnt something on on my break pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way back from work after driving for 20mins I started smelling a burning smell and I think I could see smoke (it was raining super hard) and as I stopped the car (and turned it off) there was a noisy vent sound that continued for a minute and then turned itself down to less of a noise and then stopped, I opened the bonnet and the smell of burning wasn't strong, I couldn't see any smoke, leaks or anything obvious - I couldn't really isolate where the noise was coming from either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned the car back on and there were 0 warning lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the car out again 3-4 hours later and it didn't happen again and it was an even longer drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me isolate the problem? I had a full MOT &lt;em&gt;(I know MOT's are just to check car is legal)&lt;/em&gt; 4 months ago and there were no faults, however I have yet to have my full service (almost a year since the last one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17717" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T17:55:32.977" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T21:18:40.887" Title="Burning Smell and smoke" Tags="|engine|smell|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29952" CreationDate="2016-05-31T17:07:26.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After referring to page 26 of the owners manual &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.channelblade.com/EProWebsiteMedia/2904/Owner&amp;#39;s%20Manual%20early%2090&amp;#39;s%20Rage.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I have confirmed that the large black wire coming from the negative black terminal should be grounded to one of the bolts that mount the starter motor to the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T17:07:26.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-31T17:24:36.493" Score="2" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rode it today ran fine. Come back home and I stalled it. 20 minutes later I turn the key to ride it again and nothing. I have no lights of any sort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did check the fuses and they seem ok. What else should I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17720" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T12:05:00.020" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:50:07.547" Title="1999 Katana 750 will not start" Tags="|electrical|starting|katana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30315" CreationDate="2016-05-31T20:06:43.137" Score="4" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive 2010 Hyundia i30. I recently had my battery flat out after I did not use it for 3 months. The mechanic who helped with the battery situation suggested that I can keep one of the battery leads disconnected if I am not planning to drive the vehicle for more than a week. There is generally nothing unsafe in this IMO but last time my batter was disconnected, the dashboard started showing &quot;ESP OFF&quot; (Electronic Stability Programme) sign. I am not sure what harm that does but car drove ok with that sign on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in keeping one lead of batter disconnected? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17723" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T21:30:16.793" Title="2010 Hyundia i30 - Should I keep the batter lead removed in order to prevent the battery from flattening out?" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30305" CreationDate="2016-05-31T20:22:36.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoke coming from brakes isn't very common.  I would monitor your oil level to make sure that you are not burning or leaking oil somewhere from the engine.  When you start your car, walk around it and see if you see smoke coming from the exhaust or engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17725" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T20:22:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30331" CreationDate="2016-05-31T20:22:50.057" Score="4" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a 2016 Toyota Corolla LE come with liners for their rear wheel wells? Does it need them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel wells have plastic liners but the rear wheel wells do not;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a visible cable, more exposed than I would have expected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a little shelf which looks ideal for water/snow/salt to gather in this winter. (You can partially see this shelf at the very bottom in &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ca0OJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this picture of the rear wheel well&lt;/a&gt;, where some pebbles have gathered.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should my car have come (as standard) with a liner/shield like in &lt;a href=&quot;http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b603/camrydaddy/re_cardboard_zps41c47172.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this linked picture&lt;/a&gt; (apparently of a 2012 Toyota Camry)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am missing this liner, is it putting my car at risk of damage from stones or rust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17722" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T20:30:42.747" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:52:19.050" Title="Does a Toyota Corolla need liners for their rear wheel wells?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30307" CreationDate="2016-05-31T20:24:42.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure to check all of the safety features that were included on the bike.  Kickstand up, in neutral, clutch in, kill switch set to run, and key on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17725" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T21:33:15.417" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T21:33:15.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-31T21:02:03.770" Score="6" ViewCount="2138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently this question has been bugging me, and while it might seem simple, I was not able to find a satisfactory answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose we have a cardan coupling like in the following picture, where the ingoing and outgoing shafts both are provided with a &lt;em&gt;U-shaped&lt;/em&gt; end. The U-shaped ends point to one another, are rotated an angle of 90 degrees with respect to each other, and are connected with a cruciform intermediate peace that allows the shafts to revolve about their own axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAWrS.png&quot; alt=&quot;cardan shaft&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the blue ingoing and the green outgoing shafts make an angle of 30 degrees in the plane of the paper (screen). The angular velocity of the ingoing shaft is ωin and the angular velocity of the outgoing shaft is ωuit.&#xA;See the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00NgT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Question&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I calculate the ratio of the angular velocities ωuit / ωin given that the U-shaped end of the ingoing shaft lies in the plane of the screen (left), and perpendicular to the plane of the screen (right)? Is there a systematic way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The corresponding answers are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;left: ωuit / ωin = 1/cos(30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;right: ωuit / ωin = cos(30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17724" LastEditorUserId="17724" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T21:12:23.313" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:12:50.220" Title="How to calculate the angular velocity ratio of a cardan shaft?" Tags="|transmission|car|axle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30308" CreationDate="2016-05-31T21:30:16.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably better off starting and driving the car everyday or leaving a battery tender on the car. Some cars learn and store values like idle, etc... When the battery is disconnected it loses these values. There's no real harm in disconnecting the battery, just some inconveniences that may or may not require scantools to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T21:30:16.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T00:22:20.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ryobi Cs30 Weedeater and the muffler glows red after a minute or two of use at full throttle. I took the muffler off and air blows through freely with no resistance. I have checked spark plug for correct gap and it is fine. Air filter is brand new. I don't know what else to check, can someone please help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17730" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T04:55:04.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T04:55:04.587" Title="Why does my Weedeater muffler glow red?" Tags="|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T01:50:23.523" Score="4" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put E85 in my Ford F150 xlt lariat 302 2wd truck for the first time I think it's ever been used, an now there is a slight shake in the engine when I accelerate also it's difficult to get my truck to start an once started I have to rev the engine to keep it on. When I slow down or shift to reverse or when reach an incline my truck shuts off. If there is anyone out there willing to offer any bit of information or advice I would be much obliged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17731" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:21:23.440" Title="E85 in my 1988 ford F-150 XLT Lariat" Tags="|ford|truck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-01T03:38:40.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from collision/fire behavior, automotive glazing has to resist damage from road debris - stones and such. It also has to resist abrasion from dusty/dirty windshield wipers. That requires a hard material which plexiglass is not. As well, you need an undistorted view of the road ahead, which requires that the windshield be of uniform thickness and free of ripples. That can be hard to do with plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T03:38:40.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30317" CreationDate="2016-06-01T03:44:06.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason the muffler is glowing red is because the exhaust temperature is off the chart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This (highly likely) means that the ignition timing is out, or the fuel mixture is too lean. One possibility on small engines that run a flywheel magneto is that the keyway/key may have damaged itself or sheared off, allowing the timing to go out. Or, the carby is gammed up, not allowing full flow of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean? Well aside from the engine going outside of it's safe operating temperature (wearing out components faster), it can also lead to detonation, which is where the fuel is igniting before the end of the compression stroke. This can result in breaking the connecting rod and lunching the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably a good idea to get it checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T03:44:06.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30319" CreationDate="2016-06-01T03:46:21.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is the fuel filter. The ethanol can dislodge dirt etc in the tank that's been sitting there, and will go into the filter. I've often found that when running e85 the first few weeks/months you need to change the filter a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But beyond that, is the engine tuned to run e85? It has very different combustion properties to regular unleaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T03:46:21.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30330" CreationDate="2016-06-01T04:54:58.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;My civic is still overheating even after replacing the ect switch and thermostat (the fan never comes on). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shorting the ect switch by putting a paper clip in the connector causes the fan to come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other troubleshooting steps can I take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17734" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:49:38.533" Title="1998 civic lx overheating" Tags="|honda|civic|radiator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30324" CreationDate="2016-06-01T05:11:58.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best recommendation:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase a $30 Haynes or Chilton repair manual from your local autoparts store. Best money spent ever.  Then follow the troubleshooting guide in your book for &quot;poor cooling&quot;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If indeed shorting out that Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) switch starts the fan and it never works otherwise, then the switch probably needs replacing.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For general troubleshooting, a multimeter comes in very handy for all things electrical.  You don't have to spend a lot of money on one.  You will need this to properly test all things electrical (generally by unplugging a sending unit, and testing for a particular resistance.)  The book will tell you how. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a whole lot of other ideas on troubleshooting engine cooling systems in this forum.  Search for &lt;code&gt;[overheating]&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;[coolant]&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;[cooling-system]&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit / Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that sending unit isn't an on / off switch, it should be a variable resistance device.  Here's an overview. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gl8DL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gl8DL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine coolant temperature sender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you read the resistance across the unit, what do you see (in Ohms?)  Does that match the chart (in YOUR new service manual) for the current temperature?  There are more things than just that sender in the system. When you short it, you are telling the coolant fan control system that the engine coolant is at extremely high temperature, so that really is a lousy test.  Its possible the old sender was good, but the control device has problems.  (And that would mean, you just wasted good money for nothing.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step #1.  Buy the manual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step #2. Do a methodical test of everything in the system according to the manual.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I will say, its not clear from your comment. Do you already have the service manual for your car: Make, Model and Year?  Do you have a multimeter? If so, apologies from me for assuming that you did not. The service manual will tell you how to accurately verify the correct reading from a temp sensor. Generally you will measure resistance across the terminals when the unit is disconnected from the wiring harness, but follow the instructions in your manual.  These all vary a little bit.  )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T05:58:50.047" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T05:58:50.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T05:35:55.207" Score="4" ViewCount="6872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Toyota highlander and the tires are making a loud noise as I hit 60 mph but after a few minutes it goes away and doesn't come back until I hit the highway again and get up to 60 mph. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I have brand new tires on it and alignment as well. I have no vibration in the car at all just loud noise for a few minutes then gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17735" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T07:14:09.660" LastActivityDate="2021-10-14T08:00:10.223" Title="loud noise in front end tires at 60 mph" Tags="|tires|noise|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30314" CreationDate="2016-06-01T05:42:26.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced it's as simple as that formula. I think you've got three solid bodies involved in the conversation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd design the system in SolidWorks, then put the pieces together with centerlines and contact surfaces mating. Part of the issue here is ID/OD and axial clearance / slop.  Its not much in real life, but enough to be a factor in input vs output curve, particularly when non-zero torque loads are involved.   I'd spin the input shaft 2.5 degrees of arc, and measure the output rotation.  Add 2.5 more degrees of twist and measure output again.  Repeat so you have a complete map (I would think 90 degrees of arc total should suffice...)  I doubt the input to output is a pure linear relationship.  Or you could do it with 3D angular relationships, and a really good appreciation for Descriptive Geometry.  Although two of the parts involved are the same design, you've still got to manage three bodies in the analysis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How good are you at calculating steradians?  Me, not so much.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a good grasp of Descriptive Geometry, but I think this is a hard problem to do in the purely theoretical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to use matrix calculations with a 3d rotational operator.  I think you'll find more on the transformations matrices in the field of robotic arm design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit / Update:&#xA;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.klein-gelenkwellen.de/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=66&amp;amp;Itemid=116&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference.&lt;/a&gt;  It has a nice output graph showing the speed variations.  It shows formulas similiar to yours but again without explanation on how those formulas were identified.  What is pretty bizzare is the peak off standard doesn't always occur at 45 degrees... it gets offset a degree or more, depending on how far the u-joint is 'bent'.  That makes me suspect this data is obtained thru experimentation rather than calculation but what do I know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update #2:&#xA;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://engineering-sciences.uniroma2.it/MENU/DOWNLOAD/TESI/2013/2013_Tesi_GovernatoriDario_TheInertiaTorqueoftheHookeJoint.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pretty detailed reference, from Dario Governatori University of Rome Tor Vergata.&lt;/a&gt;  Look at slide #13, Kinematics.  The author creates a relationship for each half of the u-joint cross, based on the angles of the input/output.  He takes dot product = 0 as they are perpendicular to each other. Substitute angle inputs, and then differentiate the relationship of the input and output angles with respect to time.  That makes sense but certainly is not intuitive.  I think the overview illustrations here are excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fW4yo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fW4yo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cardan joint analysis&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, I found the &quot;Equation of Motion&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;description in wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; much more complete and easier to understand (even if the wiki illustrations are a bit weak.)   Using both references together makes things much clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, er, yeah.  Scratch the SolidWorks stuff from my answer.  What the heck was I thinking?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T16:12:50.220" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:12:50.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30319" CreationDate="2016-06-01T06:04:36.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 1988 F150 is TOTALLY NOT set up to run &quot;flex fuel&quot; E85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, don't do that.  Just don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you are suggesting running your vehicle on 85% moonshine.  Truth is, due to some hygroscopic stuff and regulatory nonsense,  it might only be 75% alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETOH, ethyl alcohol, ethanol, moonshine, flex fuel, corn fuel, boogie juice.  Whatever you call it, whether you drink it or race with it, it's a totally different animal than gasoline.  (but please don't drink the stuff from Home Depot, that's been &quot;denatured&quot; probably with toluene or methanol and that really tastes extra bad plus death is a really bad weekend.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoses that will last forever on gasoline will dry out and leak on E85.  Vehicles that are tolerant of E85 will have badges all over the place telling you so.  But the fuel system hoses use different elasotomers that are compatible with alcohol. And the computer that regulates fuel management knows about that, but only a few vehicles after 1996 or so. For an FoMoCo F150, it takes you all the way to 2007 before Ford felt the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E85 is awesome.  I'm a turbo kind of guy, so E85 is a godsend.  It has special properties which cool intake charge, enabling high boost levels, burns clean, and has some truly magic properties at the dragstrip.  (On a special vehicle that you have prepared for such a fuel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT... that's not where we be.  The number of carbon molecules that must be oxidized with oxygen molecules is different with E85 than pump gasoline.  Your 1988 engine isn't smart enough to deal with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, I don't know where you live, but E85 has less BTU content (ultimate energy) than gasoline, and is typically quite expensive, gallon vs. gallon compared to gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I should ask &quot;why&quot; ... what are you trying to accomplish with E85?  I doubt your truck is capable of using it to your advantage.  Save the corn for popcorn and Jack Daniels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T06:21:23.440" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:21:23.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30324" CreationDate="2016-06-01T06:49:38.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the fan comes on when the switch is jumped is very useful since this tests the power source, relays and fan motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans can be activated by either the switch in the water passage near the thermostat housing or the coolant temperature sensor via the PCM (powertrain control module) located in the cylinder head below the distributor. So testing of both sensor and switch may be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switch should close and turn on the fans at about 199 deg F. Regardless of what the sensor is telling the PCM about the engine temperature. A simple scan tool would be helpful; it would display engine temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the new switch is bad or the coolant around it is not getting to 200 degrees. A low temperature in this area could be caused by poor flow in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:49:38.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30310" CreationDate="2016-06-01T06:52:19.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To liner or not to liner, ahhh.  That is the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit of a crapshoot.  A well-designed liner will keep the debris off the important bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A not-well-designed liner will accumulate the nasties at an alarming rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a Subaru geek, I can tell you that Fuji Heavy Industries (Subaru) tried really hard to protect the fuel filler neck with some plastic shielding &quot;liners&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which ultimately made a nice cubby for all kinds of salt and dirt to rot out the filler neck.  It was a minor problem... only a few million cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly wouldn't worry about it.  If you live in a salt-the-roads-during winter-area, get some extra car washes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T06:52:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30275" CreationDate="2016-06-01T06:57:50.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With inverters you also have to take into consideration the efficiency of the inverter itself  when calculating power requirement. For example: 12V outlet is rated at about 10A or 120W. Inverter is 87% efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120W * .87 = 104.4 W =Max size of inverter to use is 100W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a battery isolator -check at places that sell equipment for RV's. A battery isolator is a device with 2 diodes inside. The center connection is for the output of the alternator, the one on the left goes to the car's starting battery, the one on the right goes to your inverter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;battery. Since diodes conduct in one direction both batteries don't discharge and only function when charging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your inverter is 500W @ 87% = 500/.87 = 574W used at 12V @ 48A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator rating should be listed in owner's manual or written on the back of your alternators casing somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bonus feature of a battery isolator is in winter if you a little juice to crank over- just use a single battery cable short the right and left terminal and jump start your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check out these links:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/Battery-Isolators&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/Battery-Isolators&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluewatermarinesvc.com/html/bat_isolator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bluewatermarinesvc.com/html/bat_isolator.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No Switches or relays required...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T16:09:58.140" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:09:58.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30326" CreationDate="2016-06-01T07:13:07.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires heat up quickly during the first bit of driving. The heating tends to soften the rubber which changes how it contacts the road surface. How the tread blocks contact the road changes the sounds produced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires vary greatly in design and materials which both affect the noise produced. Name brand expensive tires are carefully engineered to make a &quot;white noise&quot; type sound. Low end inexpensive tires are rarely so carefully designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air pressure is correct; the alignment and suspension are all OK; the rotation is up to date then replacement could the only recourse available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T07:13:07.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30326" CreationDate="2016-06-01T07:19:07.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you check your brakes first. This is usually a main suspect in loud noises if all other aspects are fine. &#xA;Then it would also benefit you get a suspension check done at a tire fitment centre. They would be able to tell you if it something more complex such as ball joints, CV's, steering rack bushes giving in or any other part behaving strangely. &#xA;Most tire fitment centres wont charge you anything for this unless they find the flaw that is causing the noise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17739" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T07:19:07.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T09:31:37.770" Score="1" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 hyundai ix35 2.0 petrol. When i start it in the morning it struggles to shift from 1st to 2nd and should you want to gear down from 3rd back to 2nd it is also very sticky. Clutch kit has been replaced as well as the gearbox oil. After it is warmed up the gears are shifting fine. Did anyone had a similar problem and what cou&#xA;ld be done to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17741" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T09:31:37.770" Title="2011 hyundai ix35 2.0 petrol trouble shifting from 1st to 2nd when its still cold" Tags="|manual-transmission|transmission-fluid|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30349" CreationDate="2016-06-01T09:39:38.957" Score="12" ViewCount="87493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought that even if you go the large wheel + low profile tire route one should keep the pressure to what's recommended by the manufacturer. However I noticed that some people swear by increasing the pressure significantly when they switch to low profiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if the manufacturer recommended pressure shown in the owner's manual or on the car body is 2 bar - they'll pump up 3 or even 4 bar for every day driving. The reasoning behind is that in poor road conditions there is a lesser chance of damaging the wheel upon hitting a pothole. Which makes sense, as the wheel is closer to the ground with low profile tires. Higher pressure will make the tires compress less and give the wheels a bit more clearance. I've also heard claims that that the recommended pressure values are for maximum comfort, and higher pressure will improve steering response and cornering stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to be fair, for many cars large wheels and low profile tires aren't among recommended dimensions anyways. It might not make sense to cling to their pressure recommendation when the largest wheel the manufacturer recommends is R16 with 215/45 tires and the owner fit some R18s with 215/30s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, should one keep the pressure to what's recommended by the manufacturer regardless of the tire dimensions? Is it beneficial in any situation to increase the pressure of low profile tires? How much is alright without wearing down the tread unevenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T09:55:30.080" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T19:00:26.730" Title="Should the inflation pressure for low profile tires be the same as for regular tires?" Tags="|tires|wheels|pressure|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T02:59:41.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some ideas. My 2009 Ford F150 pickup uses the same wire for daytime running lights (DRL) and &quot;full&quot; headlights. The stock setup was halogen bulbs with full brightness receiving 12 V and the DRL receiving 7 V. Now I have HID headlights wired through a relay. The relay closes at 7 volts so the headlights are on full power during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to convert to LEDs for the DRLs hooked up to a 12 V. I just need to drop the 7 V on the main headlight wire so the HIDs are not on at all during day. I'm looking for advice on how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29408" OwnerDisplayName="Tim W" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T19:29:02.760" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T22:10:52.607" Title="Ideas for rewiring headlights – convert from halogen with DRL to HID + LED DRL" Tags="|electrical|ford|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30360" CreationDate="2016-06-01T11:11:16.223" Score="7" ViewCount="1974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015-Ducati Monster 821 that have started to argue with me. &#xA;When i turn the key to on - i see the panel light up and the fuel pump etc starts. But when i klick the ignition button, nothing happens. engine starter dont turn, nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried taking the key out and in again a couple of times and suddenly it will start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has been in neutral and the kickstand up. I have checked for loose wiring but all seems good. &#xA;Could it be a problem with the imobalizer in the key? Any other ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17743" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T14:07:45.293" Title="Ducati Monster 821 - Ignition problems" Tags="|motorcycle|immobilizer|ducati|monster|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30336" CreationDate="2016-06-01T11:25:03.270" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost all circumstances you should use the manufacturer's numbers as your guide. They are aware of the requirements of their wheels, and they do understand that a low profile requires a certain pressure to resist damage. This doesn't necessarily need to be a higher pressure (although it sometimes is) because the wheel construction also needs to be factored in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons you should adjust from the manufacturer's guidance include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle weight requirements - a heavy vehicle requires more tyre pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handling characteristics - all cars are different, and some require different pressures. Usually this info can be found from enthusiast forums&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving style - I like my Subaru a couple of psi over recommendations, with the fronts a little higher than the rears, as this fits my cornering style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road conditions - going more off road is safer with more air in, and wet roads may be safer with higher pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do plan on changing the pressure, try only a few psi at a time. In my example, I run my fronts at 36psi, and my rears at 34 - against a manufacturer recommendation of 32psi all round - with my 18&quot; low profile tyres, against the stock 16&quot; or 17&quot; tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T11:25:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30275" CreationDate="2016-06-01T11:42:12.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm concerned about leaving the inverter on when the car is parked and draining the battery. How hard would it be to wire the inverter so that it is only enabled when the engine is running, or at least when the accessories are on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 500 W inverter you should use a relay rated at 50A minimum (see resident_heretic's calculations). The schematic should be pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbipG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbipG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the inline fuse rating match the inverter rating, or are there other factors to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuse rating should be lower than that of the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What type of connector should I use to allow quick (safe) disconnect of the inverter leads so I don't have to take the ring terminals off the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welding tools use these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdmwG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DdmwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in different sizes. The smallest will do just fine for 50-100A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I find out the car's alternator rating to ensure I don't overload it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical alternators are in the 100-150A range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17744" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T11:42:12.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:09:40.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer this old question with very recent experience, as in still in the process of fixing a transmission to broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the transmission on my one and only car fail catastrophically. The differential broke and took out the ring gear it sits inside of. Aside from that and a couple minor things I found during the rebuild it was still a very healthy transmission worth rebuilding. The donor was a transmission I found at a local scrapyard for $225, it was the third in a set of transmissions I had attempted to drop in and drive on. Originally I was going to rebuild purely with new parts and drive on the scrapyard one in the meantime but the problems on the scrapyard ones were advanced enough that they were all on the verge of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I studied for a couple days to learn how this thing works inside-out. I had experience in the past with classic GM transmissions but never a front wheel drive, electronically controlled modern transmission. They are very different monsters. Older transmissions you can screw up and still get 100k miles out of them. These newer ones if you make mistakes you might get 100 miles or you might get 100k miles, calling them sensitive is an understatement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began my rebuild at around 9PM one night. I knew I would be up all night long, was well rested, had loads of bookmarks with information and a lot of caffeine ready for consumption. I had to stop at around 6AM, not for lack of stuff to get it done but I lad lost so much energy that I could no longer lift parts into place without scraping into the aluminum casing. Got some sleep, ate some food, played a game for a half hour and jumped back into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire next night was spent building it up and tearing it down, over and over again to get everything lined up just right so that the final piece would clear the case to within 0.006 and 0.012 of an inch. That's some amazing precision that can only be achieved by sheer trial and error. Very little skill factors in here, sure skill will make it go faster but your still looking at a lot of repeat work to work out all the play. This night I had spent from 4PM until 3AM getting the gear pack back in place and bolted up. The rest was fairly easy, only took an hour counting the time it took to clean the parts up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it was back on the road. Acted better than ever but eventually a new problem developed which I'm still working on solving. It works great when it's below 160F but once it passes 160F I lose all gears. It'll be driving along fine and then fall out of gear. There are three possible causes for this: the PCS has failed and shorting out at temperature, the clutch packs are burned out or the torque converter has burned out. It's not likely the clutch packs have burned out this quickly - they all looked very healthy. The torque converter might have failed, one of its bushings has some gouging in it but the gouging isn't in any spot that would impact its function. The PCS on the other hand is known to fail after servicing this transmission and it's advised to only be reused after testing well within spec. I didn't test the one in it but I do have one out of the donor that test as if it's brand new. I suspect the donor had it swapped since it's cheap to replace, seen no improvement because the clutch packs were burned beyond hope and then got taken in for scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, if I had to rebuild one for someone I would quote at least $600 for labor and probably throw an additional $200 onto labor depending on the results of an initial in-car inspection. For that price one could buy a re-manufactured transmission and have one of any very capable backyard mechanics put it on. They are relatively easy to remove and replace but extremely difficult to rebuild. The only reason I'm putting up with it is because I have no money left, not even enough for food and what money will be coming in is completely tied up by rent and bills. In other words I have no choice but to work through the problems. On the up side if I do actually manage to get it working, I found a transmission repair shop that I'm going to inquire about working at. You kind of have to become an expert to work on these things, they are very unforgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17748" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T20:42:56.053" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T20:42:56.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30257" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:38:52.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban, so the braking system should be very similar. I have replaced lines/hoses/calipers/wheel cylinders on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the master ran dry, be sure to bench bleed the master and ABS. Remove the lines, install short lines, and have them go back to the reservoir on the master. Pump until no bubbles. Reinstall the lines that go from the master to the ABS. Individually bleed the lines that come out of the ABS pump. I didn't try bleeding the ABS, but I think it would had helped as I am almost positive my issues were at the ABS pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple methods I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal pump bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, &lt;strong&gt;close the bleeder&lt;/strong&gt;, release the pedal. This will help from air getting trapped. I never quite got it right with this method, but I was using the old hose in a bottle method and not closing the bleeders in between pumps.  Leaving the bleeders open while pumping can allow air to get sucked in past the bleeder threads, or can allow a bubble to get pushed back and forth, but stay in the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure bleeding - apply pressure to the master cylinder reservoir to push fluid through. Might had worked had the top been able to seal well, but it ended up just making a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum bleeding - apply vacuum at the bleeder. I've used a hand pump and a large vacuum pump. Be sure to use a ton of Teflon tape so you don't suck air from around the threads. If your hose doesn't fit tight around the bleeder, you will get tons of bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse bleeding - Push fluid from the bleeder back through to the master. I build a tool to do this. A sauce jar with one line that I could connect to the air compressor, and one submerged line that would push fluid through. I used a regulator to limit the pressure to about 3 PSI. Again, use tons of Teflon tape as to not suck air around the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up modifying some bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads. Used a ton of Teflon tape. Vacuum bleed until I purged the line, reverse bleed, install original bleeder with a ton of Teflon tape, vacuum bleed until I don't see bubbles. Keep a good eye on the reservoir, you don't not want to run it dry or you will have to start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reverse bleeding helps get the bubbles out near the master/ABS where there is a long drop. The bubbles want to go up, and normal methods are trying to push them down. I might had had good success with bleeding the ABS first also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note, part of the official bleeding process is to have the dealer run an automated bleed on the ABS system. This takes a very specific scan tool. I tried several of my cousin's professional Snap-On scan tools, and they were not able to do the ABS bleed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note on the ABS.  If your standing at the drivers side fender looking at the ABS pump, near the back is a rubber cap.  Remove this cap and underneath is a valve you can press in with an ice pick.  I have somehow used this to bleed the ABS before.  I believe I would press down the valve, have someone press the pedal, and release before they stopped pressing.  Beware that this will spray fluid everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T12:38:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:46:06.180" Score="5" ViewCount="5056" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car will start OK when cold, on the first or second attempt.    It will start on the 1st attempt if the engine has been running, and the engine has only been shopped for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the engine has got hot, and then have been stopped for say 15 minutes, it can be very hard to start.   Sometimes I even have to leave it for half an hour, and then it will start 1st time….&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? What is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of googling....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say it may be due to the ECS wanting the engine to be turning over fast before turning the diesel ejector on when the engine is hot.   But it mostly seems to be lots of parts being replaced until the right part is replaced to fix the problem, but it is a different part that solved it in each thread I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=116576&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=116576&lt;/a&gt; for example, but these seem to be a lot older then may, so the software may have been changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However these all see to be people having problems with hot restart, rather then when the engine has cooled a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastEditorUserId="1201" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T16:22:45.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:22:45.480" Title="VW Passat diesel fails to start when the engine is warm" Tags="|starting|vw|diesel|passat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-15T14:38:51.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-01T14:11:05.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;it scratches too easily. thus, it cannot be used in a road environment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17750" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T14:11:05.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T15:00:49.640" Score="5" ViewCount="4975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Sonata and the display switched off. I am unable to use the rearview camera, the radio and the bluetooth connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had called the dealer who asked me to reset the display using a ballpoint pen or a pin. I could only find 1 point where the pin goes in. I have tried to reset, but I haven't had any luck. I wasn't able to find any info in the user manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the right place, I am targeting?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qEntr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qEntr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T11:46:50.543" Title="How do I reset my display on the 2014 Sonata?" Tags="|troubleshooting|sonata|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-01T15:26:11.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think you will need schematics and a test light for this one.  Basically, it is either going to be the BCM or the switch.  If the switch is reading 'on' when it shouldn't, then its the switch.  If the switch is reading 'off' and the lights are on, its the BCM.  If these are daytime running lights, you will need to determine the logic, but it should be checking the 'keyed power' pin also. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This usually has to do with the springs behind the steering wheel.  You will need to remove the airbag also.  Start by removing the housing around the steering column to see if you can access it from there.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T15:26:11.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30336" CreationDate="2016-06-01T15:32:38.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: it depends. Usually bigger wheels + thinner tires = higher pressure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, should one keep the pressure to what's recommended by the manufacturer regardless of the tire dimensions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of. If the manufacturer has a recommendation for your wheel and tire dimensions, you should definitely start with those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your new wheels are bigger (and the tires are even thinner) than the manufacturer's recommended sizes, you're going to have to start tuning them be feel, research and some math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the pneumatic tires are one of the primary undamped springs in the whole suspension system. The air volume in the tire is the first place that feels and absorbs the impact of transients like rocks, bumps and potholes.  The air pressure in the tire is the only defense your expensive new wheels have in this case. Too low and that pothole could bend your new rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pressures are too high, though, you begin to lose the whole benefit of pneumatic tires. The wheel + tire subsystem begins approaching the behavior of a solid wheel. This is, of course, the standard noise, vibration and harshness trade off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it beneficial in any situation to increase the pressure of low profile tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course. Lower pressures will have a larger contact area on each tire. This means that they feel more sluggish on steering input. However, they will also have more grip (higher contact patch area = more grip). Higher pressures will also stiffen the sidewalls. You'll be less likely to roll over the sidewall in a steady state turn. Rolling the sidewall feels terrible, isn't great for the tire and can, in severe cases, pull the tire bead right out of the wheel. However, your wear pattern will begin to accentuate the center of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much is alright without wearing down the tread unevenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends. What trade offs are you willing to make?  Do you have two driven wheels or four?  AWD cars often need the front and rear tires to maintain an expected rolling circumference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car, for example, fusses at me when coasting down from speed in second gear if my rear pressures are too high relative to the fronts.  My 16 inch wheel pressure recommendations have the fronts about three psi higher than the rears. The 17 inch wheel pressure recommendations are higher for both and are actually equal. I suspect that that is a consequence of the fact that the higher front end weight causes a more significant impact on the rolling circumference on the smaller wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, this is your car. You have to make appropriate choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T15:32:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T17:23:25.270" Score="2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Nissan Quest 3.5S. I notice that exactly at 20mph the rpm will be at a specific rpm then fluctuate to a higher rpm then come back down to normal rpm. Is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17753" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T17:23:25.270" Title="2007 Nissan Quest RPM issues" Tags="|engine|transmission|nissan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T17:24:23.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30347" CreationDate="2016-06-01T17:51:43.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something similar happened to my 2006 Toyota Prius and I solved by pushing the &quot;Display&quot; button. Maybe the pushing the &quot;DISP&quot; button may do this job for you too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T17:51:43.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30266" CreationDate="2016-06-01T18:08:54.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this engine specifically, but here are the areas I would be looking in.  Remember, you need 4 things to run - Spark, Fuel, Air, Compression.  Feel free to comment with your findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since this engine was recently reassembled, I would be looking at timing marks to make sure the timing belt didn't jump.  I've had a timing belt jump when I didn't put enough tension on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check compression, might give you a clue as to a cylinder having an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the valve cover and rotate the crank by hand to make sure all the valves are opening/closing properly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check fuel pressure at the rail.  If this is low, it could be the fuel pump, filter, or Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can pull the rail and crank it to see if the injectors are all firing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad gas.  Assuming the truck sat for a while, did you drain the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check base ignition timing (not sure if you can even do this)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pull the plug wires one by one to see if one makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pull the plugs, make sure they are clean.  They should be tan, if not, that might point to an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an inline spark plug tester to verify plugs are firing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum lines&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Idle Valve &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;EGR&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plugged cat&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ECU:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CODES!  I'd be surprised if there aren't any.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The best thing, would be if you can get your hands on a scanner that can give you a live output of the sensors to see what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ensure all wires are connected to the correct sensor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may need to start back probing sensors, but I would think anything too far out of the norm would cause a code.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check grounds.  Bad grounds can cause weird issues, I normally install some heavy gauge cables directly from the battery to the body and the block.  Ensure all wiring harness grounds are connected.  Follow the harness with a fine tooth comb.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T18:14:36.413" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T18:14:36.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30361" CreationDate="2016-06-01T18:26:13.670" Score="2" ViewCount="2955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of you may recall &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29297/is-it-okay-to-splice-a-backup-camera-into-the-reverse-lights&quot;&gt;my previous thread&lt;/a&gt; where I asked what the best way to splice a webcam into the reverse wire of a car. While these questions are similar in topic, this one focuses in on the specific use of the relay, and the problem I have encountered while wiring it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I spliced a 12v relay with a maximum current of &quot;30/40A&quot; into the reverse wire of my 2005 Jeep Liberty. What this means is that I cut the wire in half and connected each loose end to its correct terminal on the relay (I believe they are the 86 and 85 terminals, if those are standard labels). I turned on the car and put it in reverse, and the relay switched. But, when I went to the back, the reverse lights where not on. Here's a picture to model this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGF5I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut Relay Diagram&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGF5I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGF5I.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't the interior of the relay on the coil side just be a continuation of the circuit? Why would it interrupt the power so as to prevent the lights from turning on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I decided to take out the relay and just connect the loose wires with solder to make sure that it wasn't my soldering causing the problem. This indeed turned the lights on - not a solder problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following that, I soldered the two loose reverse wires together like the last step, and then just soldered two new 19AWG wires (the same if not thicker than the reverse wire) to the reverse wire, then connected those to terminals 86 and 85 on the relay. This turned the lights on, but the relay did not switch, as modeled here:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm2SY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spliced Relay Diagram&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm2SY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sm2SY.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: &lt;strong&gt;Is there some electrical step that I am overlooking, or is there something wrong with my methodology here?&lt;/strong&gt; What would cause this split in results between the two tests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17110" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:46:53.200" Title="Correct Relay Splicing Methodology (Backup Camera &amp; Reverse Wire)?" Tags="|jeep|relay|backup-camera|liberty|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30354" CreationDate="2016-06-01T19:00:27.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do that either way you tried.  You need power +86 from the reverse wire, and a suitable ground path +85 for the other side of the coil.  You'll have to add wire and find bare metal or another ground wire somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coil provides a resistance, such that very little current flows through it.  This is why the reverse lights didn't come on in the first case, but the reverse light bulb filaments provided enough of a ground path to close the relay contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Relay Basics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T19:00:27.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30338" CreationDate="2016-06-01T19:27:50.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to check your battery first , mostly with your issue most of the sources are with the batteries , kindly check also your ignition coil or do a jumpstart just to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17756" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T19:27:50.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30336" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:08:02.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the original question, there is no value in an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) tire pressure recommendation, if you are not using OEM recommended wheels and tire sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ONE really important &quot;recommendation&quot; is that you should never exceed the maximum rated sidewall pressure cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T20:08:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28176" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:17:59.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encountered a similar problem with my Honda D15 engine. The car would start fine when it was cold, but have trouble starting warm, stumble under acceleration and sputter/die at idle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had also tried replacing the fuel filter, plugs, wires, and an o2 sensor to no avail. I then purchased a coil pack and distributor rotor/cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had just enough time to replace the rotor/cap before having to pick a friend up at the airport. The engine seemed to be running better than ever, so I did not miss the opportunity to brag about my mechanical prowess on the way home. After stopping/starting the car a few times, both to display my excellence, and to pick up pizza and beer, I pulled onto the main highway a few miles from my house, got up to 30 mph, and the engine died. I tried cranking and roll-starting the engine while we still had momentum, but it didn't even hint that it was trying fire up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were able to push the car into a nearby gas station, and I was lucky/lazy enough to still have my tools and the new coil pack in the back of the car. We swapped out the bad coil pack, crossed our fingers, and the little engine sprung back to life. I never had a problem with warm starting/idle again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The End!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T20:17:59.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30337" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:26:07.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easist thing would be to remove the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) resistor and leave that connection open.  Most F150s this simply unplugs as a module.  If you ever change your mind you simply plug it back in.  But I would be very hesitant to run my HID ignitor modules on 7v all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what year of truck, I can't tell you where exactly this resistor is located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T20:26:07.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30338" CreationDate="2016-06-01T20:38:15.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You stated that you can get it to start&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to fuss with the ignition switch and move the key in and out in order to get it to start.  More than likely something to do with the physical interface between the switch and the contacts within it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only say this is more likely because it is physical and things that are physical/analogue have a higher tendency of failure than an RFID inside a key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have a 2015 model year, perhaps you can take it to Ducati and have them do some warranty work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you choose to mess with it and make the issue worse  and they can detect you did the work, you may void your warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T20:38:15.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30354" CreationDate="2016-06-01T22:29:35.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of those diagrams would work the way you want them to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In diagram one power never reaches the lights as up to pin 86 is grounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In diagram two power reaches the lights, but pin 86 is never grounded so the coil never closes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTNoK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTNoK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;85 and 86 are dependent on how the reverse light circuit works. If the circuit is normally grounded this diagram is fine. If it's normally powered 85 and 86 would be reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you tap into the reverse circuit you can either use a tap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2rAV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J2rAV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or strip back a portion of wire and solder the wire in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27BsN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27BsN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T22:46:53.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:46:53.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29819" CreationDate="2016-06-01T22:35:23.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so the problem was that, due to a faulty fuel gauge sender, I over filled the tank. And since the seal around the top of the 'hatch' had partially disintegrated, well this happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Qrhe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Qrhe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When parked on an angle, fuel was just flowing from the top of the tank :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:35:23.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30372" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:14:00.770" Score="9" ViewCount="49367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of these for years and not fully understood the benefits, can someone elaborate? Frequently the vehicles with forged internals have serious boost pressures, but I've also heard of naturally aspirated and / or carbureted engines that have been upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17760" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T19:19:51.477" Title="What is the benefit of Forged Internals in an engine? Pistons, etc" Tags="|engine-theory|performance|tuning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30367" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:19:33.360" Score="3" ViewCount="5564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Ford Focus SES with a 2.0 liter I4 Duratec PZEV (California edition) engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My repair manual suggests replacing the PCV valve every 60k miles (I am currently at 75k). I am trying to find the PCV valve but am not sure where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube videos suggest it should be at the top driver's side, but the Hanes repair manual says I'll need to remove the intake manifold to access it. The Hanes repair manual is also not terribly accurate for the 2011 model year. It contains no information about the Duratec engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go through all that effort to find it, I'd like to know if anyone knows for sure where it is, and if it even is really necessary to replace at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a couple photos of my engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuBKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuBKK.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T23:26:11.707" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T23:38:06.927" Title="Where is the PCV valve on my 2011 Ford Focus SES (Duratec engine)?" Tags="|scheduled-maintenance|pcv-valve|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30368" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:21:56.120" Score="9" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of selling my used car to a private buyer.  The buyer asked to have the car inspected at a local mechanic.  After picking the car up from the shop, I asked for the results of the inspection.  The mechanic informed me that the potential buyer asked to not share the results of the inspection with me.  The buyer won't buy the car until everything has been fixed, but won't disclose what needs to be fixed.  The buyer paid for the inspection.  The mechanic said they are hipaa compliant and their clients information is private.  Is this a normal practice to keep inspection results hidden from the buyer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17759" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T22:56:40.937" Title="Can a mechanic not share inspection results to the the seller?" Tags="|used|inspection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30365" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:38:06.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Haynes manual is correct you need to remove the intake to access the PCV valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hose from the valve cover to the intake tube is a breather hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJJbU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJJbU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Mob0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Mob0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T23:38:06.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30366" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:52:39.787" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is customary for the inspecting agent to hold the results from the seller. It is a matter of the buyer of a service retaining exclusive rights to the purchased product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes up fairly often at our shop. We only give the seller the results of inspection if we have written permission from the buyer. Only a few buyers are willing to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure HIPPA has anything to do with this as it applies to health care law in the US. That said most repair shops keep client information private as a matter of courtesy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T14:32:31.830" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:32:31.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-02T02:20:37.303" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to to the other factors mentioned. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plasticgenius.com/2011/05/infrared-and-ultraviolet-transmission.html&quot;&gt;Plexiglass is not opaque to UV radition&lt;/a&gt; like silica glass. Passengers would get sunburned driving around exposed to sunlight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used to be, when not all cars in hot climes had air conditioners, you could tell those drivers who did not because they'd roll down the driver's side window and sometimes put their elbow on the door. The left arm would tan while the right arm, under the UV blocking glass would not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the third world, they're taking advantage of most plastics UV transparent to sterilize water. They just fill up an old hand-sized water bottle and toss it it up on a corrugated tin roof for a week or so and when they take it down, all the microbes have been fried. Somebody should have gotten the nobel prize for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17761" LastEditorUserId="15551" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T13:45:41.493" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T13:45:41.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-02T02:38:02.863" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastics are awesome.  One of their characteristics is that they easily degrade in UV / sunlight. In my experience that is the weakest link in its usage.  With that said, there are a whole lot of plastics used on modern cars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally headlamp lenses are made of polycarbonate.  The polycarbonate material has a thin coating sprayed on top of the lens to help provide extra UV protection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red tail lamps lenses are virtually all acrylic.  It's got decent properties, molds well and passes light consistently.  And plexiglas is basically Acrylic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why plexiglass is not used in cars?  My guess is you really need to follow the dollar bill $$$$$$$$. Glass forming dies aren't nearly as expensive as molds necessary for things like headlamp lenses. The molds (Dies) for these products is crazy expensive.  You can't imagine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a whole lot of engineering for a US based Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) for both exterior glass and exterior lighting products.  I will say the molds for polycarbonate headlamp lenses were some of the most highly engineered (and super expensive) tooling we had to deal with.  Because of the size of the molds you really can only have one person working on a mold at a time.  Its not possible to put ten people on the job and have it go ten times faster.  That steel is super expensive grade, super hard.  If you do something wrong or try to go too fast you can crack a mold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of those tools can take up to year to produce from start of design till first parts come out of the press. From my experience, headlamp design and tooling is on the critical path for a vehicle's development cycle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No way you'd want that hassle or tooling investment cost for door glass or windshields or rear window.  Float glass is still expensive if you had to build up a glass factory from scratch, but once the factory is built glass is very  reasonably priced. Heck, the raw material for glass is essentially sand. Float glass has been  around for a long time.  True you can only shape glass as a ruled surface but designers have worked with that for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And glass doesn't degrade in UV light.  Not one bit.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the question &quot;Why did the manufacturer do that?&quot; the answer is often.. because its cheaper that way.  (Follow the money!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T02:38:02.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30337" CreationDate="2016-06-02T04:23:37.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks all. The daytime running light at 7v and fulllow beam headlight at 12v is run on the same wire. The high beam is a second wire. If I cut the wire I would have no headlights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be using LEDs for the daytime running lights hooked up to a 12v ignition source. I just need to drop tge 7v on the main headlight wire so the HIDs are not on at all during daylight. The truck is a 2009 F150. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17762" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T04:23:37.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30364" CreationDate="2016-06-02T05:15:57.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forging is a process where hot metal of the rough shape is then very forcibly squished by exact shape dies, severely compressing the metal or alloy molecules.  There are internal tensions created within the structure, which ultimately resist sheer and tension stresses by having a reserve of counterbalanced &quot;forces&quot; due to the myriad of tiny forge-created stress nodes inside.  Dies are not necessary for forging, as any blacksmith or swordsmith is creating similar stresses when beating hot metal with a hammer as it cools.  However, if the part (or sword) is reheated again, much of the gain can be lost as the molecules relax their cramped positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also quenching, which is taking a metal part that is very near a eutectic (phase change) point and suddenly cooling it in an oil or water bath, perhaps even liquefied gas.  This creates similar strength properties, but should not be considered forging as the gain is shallow and typically does not extend through the part. This typically followed by &quot;annealing&quot;, which is a very controlled heating and slow cooling process which relieves SOME of the surface stresses that might lead to cracks or shattering. If the part is irregular in size (like a connecting rod with a big end and small end) the quenching process is also likely to cause warping which must be removed, typically mechanically by bending.  I'm not aware of this being used much at all for engine parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mass-production of engine parts are done with casting, which is unlike forging in that molten metal is &quot;simply&quot; poured into a near-shape mold and allowed to cool.  Molecules of the alloy are allowed to move around as they need to, and the part has little internal stress.  This is a less-costly process than forging, as molds are much cheaper to make than forging dies--as well as many other reasons.  Forged parts often start out as castings.  In high-horsepower applications and other cases where RPM and/or cylinder pressures (BMEP) are very high, the added expense of forgings is well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, etc. will use forgings where cost is less of a concern vs. performance and perception.  Another cruical bonus, is that parts can be forged with less material for a lower weight, while still being stronger than an apples-to-oranges casting.  This is HUGE in something like a connecting rod (plus a piston), where most failures are NOT due to compression from boost, but from tension stresses fatigue from changing direction after Top Dead Center.  Each entire reciprocating assembly might only weigh a few pounds, but image the stress if you had to throw that away from you and instantly jerk it back to you -- 15000 times a minute, 250 times a SECOND on a literbike or modern F1 engine.  THIS is why high compression, high RPM, high boost engines use forged internals... not so much because of the pressure, but because of the higher tension forces created by higher-weight castings -- forces that are (I think I recall) CUBED with respect to RPM, and squared with respect to weight.  [that recollection might not be exact] ... Going any further in weight reduction suggests materials like titanium or exotic nanoparticle carbon metal composites yadayada, which are far beyond answering your question or my wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALL of these processes require exact machining afterwords to achieve the proper exact dimensions for bearing fitment and threads for assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metallurgy is incredibly interesting.  6000 years ago artisans were making swords that still have not been fully recreated to this day. Despite incredible gains in alloy and metal working technology, I still feel the only huge difference between the art of alchemy and the science of metallurgy, is that metallurgy actually works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love a set of forged Manly or Crower rods for my Saabaru EJ205 project, but $1000-$1400 is likely 4 or 5 times the cost of perfecly serviceable stock parts for a stock vehicle.  I won't even mention the cost of a forged crankshaft.  And then there are these piston things...  [sigh]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T05:15:57.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T05:21:31.200" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicle: Toyota Corolla 2003 1.8E petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Issue: the vehicle is consuming a great deal of water and requires topping up every day. There does not appear to be any leakage from the coolant system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone suggest what might be the problem causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17763" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T07:40:51.927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T07:40:51.927" Title="2003 Toyota Corolla 1.8 petrol, using coolant but not leaking" Tags="|toyota|radiator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30373" CreationDate="2016-06-02T05:55:17.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a problem with coolant getting past the head gasket into the combustion cylinder. Try taking out all of the spark plugs and unplugging the fuel pump relay. Then crank the engine over and see if any liquid is coming out of the plugholes; you can hold up a sheet of cardboard to the holes to see if anything is coming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is coolant getting into the combustion chamber, then the cylinder head will need to be removed and the head gasket replaced. Depending on whether or not there has been any overheating, the cylinder head may need to be machined to ensure a flat sealing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14578" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T05:55:17.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-02T10:42:02.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think in answering this question you need to answer the initial question which is fundamentally, is plexiglass used for glazing in road cars.  The answer to this question is that it is a very definite yes, it is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of a production vehicle that uses plastic windows is the Porsche 911 GT3 (991 GT3 R).  Taken from wiki information about the car available &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_911_GT3&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All windows – and for the first time ever, the windscreen – are made from polycarbonate to cut weight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local legislation may prevent the use of plexiglass for road car windows, which is reflected in the same article which states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The American version ... has a standard rear window (not plexiglas) ... to comply with rules of SCCA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ths 911 GT3 was the first example I thought of but some further research reveals that more humble road cars, such as the Smart Fortwo roadster uses plastic windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T10:42:02.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T11:08:28.907" Score="9" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading an old article about the use of TEGs (thermoelectric generators) in place of alternators in cars to improve efficiency. The main problems that engineers face with this technology is the horrid efficiency of peltier elements (5-9%), their low operating temperature (not suited for direct exposure to the heat of the exhaust), and cost. So I was thinking... why not use a Stirling engine? It can withstand a lot higher amount of heat and has an efficiency up to 50%. Considering that a car running on a freeway consumes about 10kwh per 100km to move and 35kwh goes out of the exhaust, the potential of recapturing some of this energy seems very appealing to me. Is it because of the weight? Is it the cost? Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T23:06:43.173" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T23:06:43.173" Title="Use of a stirling engine to generate electric current from exhaust heat in an automobile" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T12:55:33.953" Score="4" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;I CAN NOT KNOCK THE BOLT itsself out from the lower end of strut mount. i got the nut off butt am unable to hammer the bolt out. front strut passenger side 2000 taurus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17766" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:53:18.233" Title="front struts 2000 taurus can not knock out lower mounting bolt. nut is off" Tags="|struts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30386" CreationDate="2016-06-02T13:36:21.767" Score="9" ViewCount="20060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching Toyota diagnostic connectors, and ran across something called a Mini VCI adaptor meant for use with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toyota-tech.eu/GTS/Wizard/Step5-Software.aspx&quot;&gt;Toyota's TechStream software&lt;/a&gt;.  The physical interface looks like a standard OBDII and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-Latest-version-V8-30-021-MINI-VCI-Interface-FOR-TOYOTA-TIS-Techstream-V8-30-021/672381461.html&quot;&gt;according to this advertisement&lt;/a&gt; it supports the following protocols:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K-Line ISO 9141&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KWP 2000 ISO 14230-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1850 PWM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SAE J1850 VPW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAN 2.0B ISO 11898&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CAN ISO 15765-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the face, this just looks like a standard OBDII adapter.  Am I missing something?  Couldn't I just use a standard OBDII adapter with the TechStream software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T02:26:31.693" Title="What's the Difference Between OBDII adapters and Toyota Mini VCI?" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30364" CreationDate="2016-06-02T13:55:19.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of experience from the turbo dodge world (84-93 2.2/2.5l turbo engines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were cast and forged connecting rods.  Cast were said to hold about 200hp, where forged would hold about 400hp without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were cast and forged cranks, but I don't remember of ever hearing about crank issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engines all came with cast pistons.  If you got into high boost and had detonation, you could easily crack a ring landing.  Forged pistons could stand up to a bit more abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:55:19.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:17:22.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could Hydrogen [gas] Be Used as a Fuel [for motor vehicles]?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically - yes. Practically - no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;François Isaac de Rivaz ... invented a hydrogen-powered internal combustion engine with electric ignition and described it in a French patent published in 1807&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Isaac_de_Rivaz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People continued to invent gas powered vehicles, in the second world war there was a brief revival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzJ7i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzJ7i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2011/11/gas-bag-vehicles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pictured&lt;/a&gt; is using some gas other than hydrogen gas, but you can see the point I'm making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastEditorUserId="1751" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T14:22:52.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:22:52.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30366" CreationDate="2016-06-02T15:13:55.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is not unusual for the shop not to show you, they buyer should be willing to give you a copy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to sound sleazy, but seeing as this buyer has already spent money on an inspection, you have them on the hook. I would see no problem with you refusing to negotiate price until he has disclosed the shops findings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has to be a certain amount of respect between buyer and seller, so if you ask to see the report, and the buyer refuses to show it, you have every right to walk away from the sale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T22:56:40.937" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T22:56:40.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9232" CreationDate="2016-06-02T15:27:02.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My insurance company (and others, perhaps almost all) want a window to be repaired if the pit/crack is small enough to fit under a dollar bill.  So when I had a rock thrown up at my windshield and it resulted in a crack growing 4 inches later that day, they insisted upon having a repair instead of replacing the entire window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very skeptical of such a crack being successfully repaired, but I assume that their policy has some kind of success rate that makes it worthwhile.  The cost of repair is about $60 (completely covered by insurance) and the cost to replace would be several hundred dollars (my glass deductible is $50; this varies &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; widely by company and policy).  If repairing such a large crack did not work, then their policy would simply be adding $60 to their payout for the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to say of the repair would have worked, because by the time it was inspected by the glass company, the crack had extended another several inches, well outside the &quot;dollar&quot; limit, so the windshield was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12178" LastEditorUserId="12178" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T12:22:57.203" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T12:22:57.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30379" CreationDate="2016-06-02T18:03:02.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boschdiagnostics.com/pro/j2534-faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;J2534 device&lt;/a&gt;. These support reflashing with the proper software. I've used the OpenPort 2.0 another J2534 device with the TechStream software before I assume this is the same just made in China. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generic OBD2 cables don't support reflashing as they're missing the necessary chip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T19:16:34.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:16:34.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30376" CreationDate="2016-06-02T18:46:58.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is virtually the same for &quot;Why don't we use Stirling cycle [instead of Otto] engines? &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost (especially adding an entire auxillary system), weight (or power/weight ratio), complexity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is virtually the same for &quot;Why don't we use steam turbines to power our cars?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately Internal Combustion engines are here to stay.  Consumerism is driven mostly by fuel cost, less by pure &quot;efficiency&quot; or environmental concerns.  And now with high Air Fuel Ratio &quot;lean-burn&quot; technologies like Ecoboost, SkyActive, etc, more hyper efficient diesels like the VW/Audi TDI, use of once &quot;exotic&quot; materials involving composites, laminates, nanoparticles... we are seeing dinosaur burning IC monsters that are more efficient than hybrids, while still maintaining emissions readings lower at the tailpipe than the intake air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This response is certainly just my opinion, and doesn't address the technical aspect -- but @ihniwid's comment certainly does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T18:59:50.060" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T18:59:50.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32343" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:50:12.933" Score="6" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was messing around with electrical loads on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L today and noticed that the voltage I was reading at the battery with my multimeter, didn't match the voltage the ECU was report via my scan tool.  I'm sure the multimeter was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took measurements at idle, with no load and with all the electrical loads turned on ( high beams, radio, blower, defroster ) and the difference between the multimeter and ECU readers varied between 0.25 to 0.5 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might cause this discrepancy?  Might I have a voltage drop problem somewhere on the path to the ECU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T05:31:30.483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T08:47:48.477" Title="Multimeter Voltage doesn't match ECU Voltage" Tags="|alternator|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30377" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:53:18.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Jeep Wrangler like that once.  Heap'o'rust.  Get yourself one of these.  Works awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aH5kk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aH5kk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pneumatic Air Hammer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hammered on bolts for a few hours on that fricking jeep.  With this, it took just minutes.  And of course the safety warning.  You will need ear and eye protection.  Stay safe out there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:53:18.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30337" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:59:57.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest cutting the low beam headlight wire and intercepting the ground signal wire at the switch. So as to bypass the body control module altogether, unless you want to retain autolamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:59:57.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36743" CreationDate="2016-06-02T20:01:27.143" Score="2" ViewCount="1513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having some strange &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20914/battery-light-wont-go-off-since-changing-battery&quot;&gt;low voltage problems lately&lt;/a&gt;.  I was messing around, and decided to turn on as many electrical loads as I could, which meant the radio, high beam headlights, defroster, and fan blower.  Before doing that my check battery light was on and I was reading about 13.75 volts on my multi-meter.  Turning all these loads on caused my voltage to drop to about 11.8 volts, however, after turning all the loads off I noticed that my check battery light was off and that my base voltage had jumped to about 14.05 volts at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what just happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T15:00:12.327" Title="Turning on Loads caused an Increase in Alternator Base Voltage" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T20:39:12.850" Score="5" ViewCount="2520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use oven cleaner (composition: 5-15% aliphatic compounds, 2-aminoethanol, butane and propane...) to clean the carbon off the cylinders and pistons of my BMW R80GS 1991 Motorbike (without damaging it)?&#xA;I believe they are Nikasil coated, the rest aluminium?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what other household utensils can be used? Brass brush too hard? Toothbrush, steel wool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T21:33:24.657" Title="Cleaning pistons and cylinders with oven cleaner" Tags="|cylinder|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30392" CreationDate="2016-06-02T21:13:36.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why chance it when some carb cleaner will do the trick for you. It should take carbon off of the piston without any worry of damage to the piston. Use an old, broken piston ring to clean out the ring lands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T21:13:36.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T22:33:44.167" Score="3" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's got really crappy video quality. So blurry and useless. Plus the backup camera does not come with guide lines so you cannot distance to object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone upgraded it themselves with a new camera lens or new kit off eBay or other ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like to get some step-by-step photos of how to disassemble and assemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3659" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T11:12:57.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:12:57.587" Title="Anyone know how to upgrade rear backup camera on VW Routan or Chrysler Town &amp; Country minivan (2009 model)?" Tags="|chrysler|town-and-country|backup-camera|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4575" CreationDate="2016-06-02T22:55:23.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am glad you got a good outcome, but would like to answer because I have a fair amount of experience with difficult cooling system issues, and the most recent one occurred while I was over 1,000 miles from home. Had I been close to my home it would have not been very inconveniencing. On top of that, it was the hottest time of the year and I had traveled 1,000 miles south into hotter territory. The issues began about 40 miles from home and I made the very bad decision to top off the coolant and proceed rather than turn around back home and choose a different car. Below is my advice based on a lot of experience with managing a vehicle that is overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First rule is simple -- if the temperature is above the normal (usually half-way, or in some cars just a hair above half-way on the gauge), pull over and stop the engine. That is your safest bet to avoid damage and turning a minor problem into a major one. Most cooling issues are solved by replacing a hose, an $8 thermostat, a $50 radiator fan motor, or a $200 radiator. Water pumps are cheap, but not easy to change on a lot of modern cars, so I don't consider that a &amp;quot;minor&amp;quot; fix because of the high labor costs. Driving the car after it crosses the normal temperature for any amount of time increases the chances that a cheap problem will turn into a $1,00 head gasket or $2,000 engine rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason you cannot do that, your first order of business is to turn off the air conditioner, roll down the windows, and turn the heat onto the hottest and the blower to full blast. This will increase the cooling system capacity by allowing the heater core to dissipate engine heat -- obviously at the expense of cabin comfort. Also, by killing the AC, the AC condenser is no longer dumping an additional heat load onto the cooling system. If you do this and the temperature stays within normal range (which is often the case) pull over when you can and check the coolant level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant level is down, fill it. If you cannot get proper coolant and have to use water from a jug or a hose, that is better than low coolant. Keep in mind that you should circle back after the repair and drain/flush and refill the system (if it was not required for the fix) so that you have the proper proportion of anti-freeze to water. Also keep in mind that distilled water is best for your cooling system, and if you ended up getting it from a hose that might introduce contaminants that over time will cause problems, like corrosion or mineral buildup that clogs the radiator, etc. But, dirty water is better than no water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant level was low, the question becomes &amp;quot;how fast is the leak&amp;quot;? If you can't see it, like gushing out of a broken hose or oozing from the radiator, then all you can really do is fill it and then proceed (AC off, heat on, driving very delicately) and see how far you get before the temp breaks the normal reading. Obviously, you carry extra water/coolant with you when you go down this path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coolant level wasn't low, then proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you drive with a cooling issue you want to avoid stopped traffic and keep the car moving 20mph or better. The reason is the movement creates airflow over your radiator. When you are stopped in traffic, there is no airflow, and the only thing keeping you from overheating is the radiator fan -- and it is very possible that has failed and is the reason you overheated to begin with. If temps stay normal while moving but creeps up over normal while stopped, it is probably the fan. Avoid stopped traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also want to avoid heavy loads. You may be able to drive with a compromised cooling system at 55mph without overheating, but at 65mph it overheats. This is because engine load is higher, and if you are on the highway driving a long time with a compromised cooling system, the load is higher than the cooling system can dissipate the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hills are not your friend when driving with a compromised cooling system. If you can't get up the hill without loading the engine to the point it overheats, there isn't much you can do about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worthwhile to also check the auto transmission fluid, because if that is low the tranny is running hotter than normal and most radiators have a section that is your transmission fluid cooler which is mounted to the radiator putting additional heat on the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these techniques you might be able to get a car where you need it to be with a compromised cooling system. It is impossible to guarantee results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the question becomes &amp;quot;how hot can I run it without doing major damage&amp;quot;, the answer to that question depends on the specific engine. Some cars, such as those with steel block and aluminum head, any overheating runs the risk of warping the head (because steel and aluminum expand at different rates). If you can manage to get home or to a shop by using the above techniques, there really isn't too much to worry about. But if you can't do that and must press on with the temp over normal, you are running a serious risk of making a bigger problem. Whether damage is done depends on how hot it got and for how long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T18:35:25.433" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T18:35:25.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29685" CreationDate="2016-06-02T23:11:22.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorcycle clutch plates sticking together in the morning is a fairly common complaint. The oil squeezes out from between the plates overnight, and they don't want to separate when you first pull in the clutch lever. One could conjecture that this is a sign the clutch is getting old and tired, but I had this problem with a brand new factory clutch in a Kawasaki KZ1000. So I don't think it's just age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if this wasn't a problem before the oil change, then it's a pretty good bet that the oil just isn't right for your clutch. It would be great if you knew what was in it before so you could use it again, (perhaps you could contact the previous owner and ask?) Honda specifies a JASO (japanese automotive standards organization) &quot;MA&quot; certified oil. JASO MA includes some multi-plate wet clutch specific tests, as well as standards for ash, etc, so it's worth giving it a try. A surprising number of motorcycle-specific oils sold are NOT MA certified. On the other hand, Shell Rotella-T diesel truck oil IS MA certified, so go figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, yes, turning the engine backwards puts unusual forces on the cam chain guide and tensioner, so best to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides pushing it in gear before starting (and you aren't the only person I've known to do that,) you could also try pulling in the leaver and blipping the throttle a few times before dropping it in gear. That often is enough to free the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, this isn't some sign that your clutch is about to come apart, it's just something that motorcycle clutches do. And if you find an oil that cures it, please post a follow-up so we can all benefit. Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16127" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:11:22.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T23:39:32.717" Score="6" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;So that I don't keep dinging or putting scratches my front bumper, what is the best way to gauge tight parking spaces ? &#xA;Say, if a parking spot is walled in three directions and you are pulling in your car, other than counting on experience how does one gauge if the front bumper will rub against (or not) the wall ? Are there any reference points ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T11:12:17.550" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:51:37.067" Title="Gauging tight parking spots" Tags="|toyota|camry|parking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T01:03:10.030" Score="0" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the lifters might be timing chain but don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17778" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T03:17:52.090" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T03:17:52.090" Title="My motor in my 2003 Honda 400EX Four Wheeler is making a ticking noise" Tags="|engine|honda|noise|atv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30000" CreationDate="2016-06-03T01:06:18.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the grounds and fuses battery could be junk jump the starter from the battery to the starter and if it works change the fuse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17778" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T01:06:18.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30397" CreationDate="2016-06-03T01:48:08.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I found with myself, after learning to drive on farms at a very young age, is that I seem to naturally &quot;know&quot; or &quot;feel&quot; where the outer limits of my car is. It's strange and I can't fully explain it, but I've personally never had this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people do, you're definitely not alone, and there are a few solutions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, if it's your house/carport, I have seen people hang a tennis ball from a string, attached to the ceiling. It'll be put in just the right place, so that when your car is close enough to the wall ahead, the tennis ball is just touching your windshield. That's really helpful if you have a big 4x4 and a little parking space in your house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, is an ultrasonic beeper. Some cars will have these already installed from the factory, but you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/111255649424?lpid=107&amp;amp;chn=ps&quot;&gt;get kits off ebay&lt;/a&gt; that have sensors and indicators, and are fairly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option I can think of quickly, is a tried-and-tested method seen on many Japanese cars... &lt;a href=&quot;https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/15241530952_676bb5298f_b.jpg&quot;&gt;Little parking wands&lt;/a&gt;. They're just a stick that attaches to the front bumper, and you can easily see where the extremity of the car's nose is. I guess ebay would have them, but I've only ever pulled them off imported cars, never put them on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T01:48:08.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30398" CreationDate="2016-06-03T03:17:33.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's your valves or the cam chain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a ticking sound, those are your two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't provided much data or info at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjust your valves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.004 inch clearance for your intake valves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.005 inch clearance for you exhaust valves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your cam chain tensioner to ensure it's putting the proper tension on your cam chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T03:17:33.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T04:04:32.120" Score="4" ViewCount="4889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bajaj Discover 135 with dual suspension.  I have seen some photos on Google of some people who have successfully done this conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Now my question is, what would be the steps to do this?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i found is that it could be adapted to the fork it currently has but I wanted to find out how the process would be.  I have done some research into the matter and not many mechanics around here seem to have the knowledge to do such a thing. I have tried looking into a more recent model that has the mono-shock but to buy the mono-shock and fork goes over budget.  I opted into looking for other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can someone give a summary of what I would need to do to accomplish my goal of putting a mono-shock rear end on my motorcycle?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17781" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T08:01:28.973" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T06:06:38.277" Title="Dual suspension to monoshock" Tags="|motorcycle|suspension|bajaj|custom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30388" CreationDate="2016-06-03T06:35:02.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I commented in your &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similar question about alternator voltage, where you are measuring voltage and where the ECU does are two different locations.  Voltage drop test all the main battery cables and wiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T06:35:02.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T06:52:04.460" Score="2" ViewCount="2834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a light bar that pulls close to 22 amps how long can I have it on and my jeep off without hurting my battery? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17783" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T07:43:25.680" Title="Light bar vs Car battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|car|jeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30404" CreationDate="2016-06-03T07:43:25.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculate it yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a full 66Ah battery, it will be drained within 66Ah/22A=3h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BUT&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A battery degrades over time, after a few years, the capacity isn't 66Ah any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An almost empty battery isn't capable to deliver the same max. current as a full battery. If it's almost empty, you could have problems staring your motor. This is even more important in cold conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes quite a while for the car to charge a fully discharged battery. May be an hour or two?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deeply discharging a battery damages it. A 12V is considered empty when it gives about 11.5V. But you can still draw current, which will then damage the battery and reduce it's full capacity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say depending on the age and condition of the battery, when math says 3h, don't use it for more than 2h, better less. You never REALLY know how much capacity your battery has, and how full it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: 22A*12V=264W. Are you lighting a sports field? Maybe, LEDs are an alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T07:43:25.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30402" CreationDate="2016-06-03T07:57:03.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will need to make several changes to the frame&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently your rear subframe is bossed and strengthened considerably as all of the absorbed energy from road undulations is transferred from your swingarm to the rear subframe, underneath your seat and tail section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a cantilever swingarm you will need a rear single shock mount point.  You would need to build this and weld up your frame.  If you are not well versed in frame technology and physics I would suggest you have this component created and installed by a professional frame craftsman.  It would more than likely need to go where your current battery and air box are located.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Migration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to migrate the location of your battery and perhaps even remove your airbox.  If you remove your airbox you will need individual air cleaners for your carburetors.  A re-jetting of your carburetors will also be in order if you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a small racing battery and put it in your tail section.  You will be very unhappy with this small battery the first time you try and start your motorcycle more than a few times and it doesn't work.  Get used to push starting your bike from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swingarm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a cantilever swingarm.  If you do this, you may as well get a Honda SuperHawk single sided swingarm because, why not?  Your biggest issue is going to be the mount point on the frame though, followed by aligning your chain properly and shimming your front sprocket appropriately and possibly cutting the downtube on the left side of the bike so the chain has clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big Project&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a summary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the airbox&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get individual filters for carbs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-jet carbs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Migrate battery to tail section in order to have an open frame triangle without obstructions below the rider (it's cafe style)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure battery that fits into the tail section behind the brake/tail light&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rewire for new battery location&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modify frame for single shock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new swing arm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new shock to match&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-valve shock for weight of rider and bike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure appropriate spring for shock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modify sprocket alignment&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possibly cut downtube of left side of frame for chain clearance&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new rim to match swingarm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new rear brake that will mount to swing arm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new axle for new rim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new rim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make alignment spacers for proper rim fitment on axle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new tire for new rim size&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure new chain alignment adjusters to match swingarm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Procure or make new swingarm shaft to go through frame&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put appropriate bearings in swingarm to match new swingarm shaft&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There you have it.  That's a short list off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a monoshock solution for your bike where you can take all the pieces off a different model and modify the frame it will make it much easier.  You will still need to go through everything I've listed but if someone has done it before it certainly makes it quite a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T06:06:38.277" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T06:06:38.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26858" CreationDate="2016-06-03T11:33:41.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so if you've got four worn out struts / shocks, and you only replace the front two your car's gonna ride like a camel with a python latched onto it's nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's pretty much how my 626 rode after replacing just the front struts.  I just changed the rear struts and it's like a whole new car. I can't believe the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:33:41.793" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T13:23:13.107" Score="3" ViewCount="4422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Honda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Accord&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 3.0L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: P0301,P0302,P0303,P0304,P0306,P1399&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T06:05:39.563" Title="How to fix P0301,P0302,P0303,P0304,P0306,P1399 error codes for Honda Accord 2000?" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30236" CreationDate="2016-06-03T14:55:01.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The break in the wire could have possibly been causing a spike which was scrambling the ECU.  I suspect that the problem won't occur anymore since you've changed that bit of loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:55:01.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30411" CreationDate="2016-06-03T16:22:38.887" Score="2" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sure I read, or was told, that completely removing a battery from a car is bad because it resets things in the car's computer or it dumps some sort of acquired tuning data, or something along those approximate lines.    I cannot recall or find the information again though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car (Jaguar S-type Petrol 3 litre, 2000) has been sat unused for about 3 weeks, and today I discovered that it will be another 3 weeks before it can go in for some much needed work.   I don't want to drive it with work needed (some of it mildly safety related) until the short journey to the mechanics garage,  so I am thinking a few days before I will take the battery out and charge it overnight (the battery in my car does not respond well to being left for long periods without being driven)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering if there will be any issues with the battery not being in the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5036" LastEditorUserId="5036" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T22:21:22.237" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T22:21:22.237" Title="Are there potential issues with leaving a car without a battery for a few days?" Tags="|battery|jaguar|s-type|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30410" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:03:10.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be fine.  It will reset the ECU after a couple minutes (when the capacitors loose their charge).  The shop will likely disconnect the battery while working on the car.  Leaving the battery sit for a couple months should be fine as long as it was good to begin with.  A weak battery may not last that long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:03:10.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30397" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:19:46.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit of a parking elitist, so let me tell you what you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; do if you want to be cool, like me :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pulling or backing into a spot, I've made a habit of pulling in the minimum distance, just enough that my car is in line (also centered and parallel, because parking snob) with the parking spot paint, which is enough to guarantee you aren't hanging out into the flow of traffic.You can use your mirrors to see when the lines for the packing spot are about equal with the back of your car, or equal to the car next to you, then you don't have to worry about hitting your front bumper unless it's an EXTREMELY tight spot, which is pretty rare, in my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began parking like this when I drove a little Civic hatchback. I always hated looking for a parking spot in a busy lot, seeing one, pulling up, only to find the spot was occupied by a little car or motorcycle, amd I didn't want to be that guy. It also prevents people from impeding the flow of a busy lot, as they will glace right over my car instead speeding up, slowing down, starting to turn, fist fighting other motorists for the spot etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For gauging parallel parking, go practice one day, get yourself parked an acceptable distance from the curb (&amp;lt;6&quot;), then get in the drivers seat and sit in a natural position that you know you can repeat. Find a reference point on your car that lines up well with where the curb meets the ground. I find one of the many ridges/holes in the windshield wipers works the best. You can even put a small notch or mark the spot with a pen. This way, next time you pull up, you can sit in your natural position, look at where your reference point lines up with the ground, and gauge how far you are from the curb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:19:46.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:26:09.360" Score="11" ViewCount="5069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke 2 spark plugs in my Buick lesabre 3800. The plug is broken at the top of the nut. The porcelain is all broken off in the socket. Took it to a mechanic and was told he would have to take the entire engine out in order to extract them. Right or wrong? Btw it's plug number 2 and 4 on the back end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17797" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T17:37:24.107" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T20:54:12.917" Title="Do I really have to pull the engine to remove broken spark plugs?" Tags="|sparkplugs|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30410" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:39:09.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other user stated, the only thing it'll affect is the ECU, stuff like Idle speed, or different settings will be reconfigured, my only word of caution is when you put the battery back in and turn the car on, let it idle for a while so it can reconfigure everything such as idle speed so it doesn't run as rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:39:09.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30397" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:51:37.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice in a store carpark with some cones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I'm in a tight spot, I find it easier to reverse in; I can then see all the way down each side of the car using the mirrors (and new cars now generally come with reversing cameras).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say &quot;other than counting experience&quot; - you can't. You need the experience, so you need to practice where you won't damage your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:51:37.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30105" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:55:16.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For starters, here is a link with all the OEM sunroof info: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc61wghrpg4425w/06_g35_sunroof.pdf?dl=0&quot;&gt;sunroof&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend doing the dis/re-assembly again. This time, following every instruction to the tee. Then, do the reset again following it to the tee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done that, test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still doesn't work it would point a big finger toward the motor being bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the diagram and instructions there doesn't seem to be a physical limiter at all. I did double check this with a buddy of mine (who is a certified master mechanic with ~20 years experience) and he mentioned that these types of systems usually use motor feedback for controlling &quot;stop&quot; functions. Additionally, the info in the link: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The CPU of sunroof motor monitors the sunroof motor operation and the sunroof position (fully-closed or other) by the signals from the sunroof motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if going through the entire reset and ensuring that the tracks are functioning properly (meaning the rails guide slide smoothly the bit that they &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; move) doesn't fix the problem, then there has to be something wrong with the motor. Also, if the motor immediately stops trying to push, then it's even more likely a motor issue because if it was mechanical blockage, the motor would still try to push a little (even for 1/2 second or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, 18 pages of manufacturer data should be able to help I'd think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T18:23:57.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T18:23:57.443" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30413" CreationDate="2016-06-03T17:57:33.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the electrode pulled out of the plug you may be able to use an epoxy to pull out the rest of the porcelain. If not you'd have to smash it and get it out of the ground strap. Then you may be able to use an extractor kit on the ground strap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure you don't have to pull the engine to remove the head. But the lower intake etc... would have to come off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way it's time consuming and all straight up labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:57:33.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21048" CreationDate="2016-06-03T18:20:38.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only heard a rod knock, or spun bearing, once when I was asked to diagnose a friends car and although I had never heard one before I diagnosed it and it was in fact a spun rod bearing -- which was confirmed upon removal and disassembly and rebuild. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve tick and rod knock are often confused. Neither is a particularly good situation, but rod knock is much worse as Paulster2's response explains. Valve tick can be just because of low oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valve tick  is a lighter more tinny sound at a higher pitch than the lower pitched and more subdued rod knock. Rod knock will come from the low end, versus valve tick from the top end. You can use a piece of vacuum tubing as a makeshift stethoscope with one end near (no in) your ear and the other end moving towards the sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you open the oil fill cap on the cylinder head and the noise gets louder/clearer, it is valve tick. Is you take the engine oil dipstick out and listen there and the sound gets louder/clearer, it is a knock from the lower end and most likely a rod bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that running the car with the dipstick removed will create a vacuum leak and the idle will be poor and you might throw a check engine code. But if troubleshooting a potential spun bearing, a CE code is not really your main concern. The engine will idle correctly once the dipstick is put back in, and if a code was thrown it will clear over time or with a code clearing tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piston slap could also be confused with valve tick and rod knock. It would be tough to explain how the sound would be different between rod knock and piston slap, but the general rule is if you have a knock from the engine -- and especially the low end -- it isn't good and the engine won't be running long and repairs will be costly and become more costly if you continue running the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the engine in hopes it will go away on its own will lead to a seized engine, piston through the hood, rod through the block etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is there are a lot of knocking sounds that originate external to the engine, and if that is the case the problem isn't necessarily severe. Worn engine mounts, bad belt, pulley, etc. are examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is misdiagnosis does happen and results in a good engine being torn down and a lot of costs sunk. That can happen either by honest mistake, or a shady shop milking a customer for unnecessary repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that you can send an engine oil sample for analysis to confirm. A severe problem with the low end will have high metallic content in the oil. If you aren't sure and want to be sure, get an oil analysis done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have an engine problem in the internals which is making audible noise, don't waste your time or money on the various products sold as &quot;engine repair&quot;. While it is possible adding product might reduce the sound or make it go away, the damage is not reversed. People do this to sell a car to an unsuspecting buyer and mask the engine knock. People don't do this as a permanent fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T18:20:38.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30425" CreationDate="2016-06-03T18:27:53.547" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any information about a motorcycle tire warranty for Pirelli. Does anyone know if Pirelli offers a warranty on their motorcycle tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T02:58:34.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T02:58:34.083" Title="Does Pirelli have a motorcycle tire warranty?" Tags="|motorcycle|tires|warranty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T18:43:34.997" Score="5" ViewCount="23268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've have a 2006 Renault Scenic 1.6 Liter.  I can't seem to find where the fuse box is located as it's not where it says it is in the handbook. The cigarette lighter fuse has blown but cant find the fuse box to change it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please can you help you help me to locate fuse box?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17799" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T02:48:44.993" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T12:28:19.647" Title="Fuse box location for 2006 Renault Scenic" Tags="|fuse|renault|scenic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2766" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:36:20.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Tire has suffered internal failure of the layers that make up your tire. Replace immediately. Can you drive it to your Tire store? Yes. But maintain low speed and avoid potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T20:36:20.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30413" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:54:12.917" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the plug is still in the head as normal, just with the porcelain and electrode snapped on the top end (where the ignition line attaches). If that's the case, it should be really easy to handle, you just need the exact right tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to take the manifold off to open up your workspace, but you should be able to access it with a proper spark plug socket or if the nut's damaged (stripped) you could use an easy-out type socket (Irwin makes some). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the case, it's extremely unlikely that you ever need to pull a motor to get the plug out. If you could post a pic it'd be much easier to give a perfect answer, but I'd never pay a mechanic that wants to pull the motor for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T20:54:12.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30426" CreationDate="2016-06-03T20:58:57.283" Score="5" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4cyl with 202,000.  The engine has been running rough and will occasionally sputter and die when I let off the gas pedal.  I had it diagnosed and they think it's a stuck valve.  One of the cylinders had less than 50% compression.  I was quoted a minimum of $750 in labor for a machinist to take it apart and any parts will be extra.  I have been driving the truck in this condition for several hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I risking further major damage or am I just getting diminished performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17802" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T21:37:13.907" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T21:59:51.837" Title="Stuck valve, loss of pressure. Risky or only poor performance?" Tags="|engine|toyota|valve|tacoma|cylinder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30392" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:33:24.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dude spend the extra 3 bucks and buy a proper engine cleaner. Spraying sodium hydroxide on aluminum is a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a nylon brush drill bit to clean off carbon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's technically not an automotive product, I use CLP to clean gunk and carbon off automotive parts. It's great stuff IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T21:33:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30419" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:42:38.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copy paste from the Pirelli USA website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PIRELLI ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT &amp;amp; REPLACEMENT LIMITED WARRANTY MOTORCYCLE&#xA;  TIRES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What Is Warranted and Who Is Eligible Under the Warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pirelli Tire LLC (Pirelli), 100 Pirelli Drive, PO Box 700, Rome, GA&#xA;  30161-7000, warrants to the original purchaser that all Pirelli&#xA;  Original Equipment and Replacement Motorcycle tires with a complete&#xA;  D.O.T. identification number and branded Pirelli, which are supplied&#xA;  by Pirelli, either directly or through an authorized Dealer, and which&#xA;  are mounted on motorcycles within the U.S.A. and Canada will be free&#xA;  from defects in workmanship and materials. The Pirelli Original&#xA;  Equipment &amp;amp; Replacement Limited Warranty is subject to periodic&#xA;  revision; see the Warranty section at www.us.pirelli.com for the&#xA;  latest version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If further assistance or information is needed regarding Pirelli tires&#xA;  please contact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pirelli Tire LLC  Consumer Affairs Group  Monday through Friday  8:00&#xA;  AM to 6:00 PM Eastern Standard Time  1-800-747-3554, option 2 Warranty&#xA;  Basics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tire Registration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please request your dealer to register your replacement tires, provide&#xA;  you with a registration card, or go to www.us.Pirelli.com to register&#xA;  your tires on line. In case of a tire recall, we can reach you only if&#xA;  we have your name and address. You must register your tires to be on&#xA;  our list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What Is the Adjustment Policy and For How Long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pirelli motorcycle tires are covered by this warranty for the duration&#xA;  of the tire life as defined below. For street tires, the tire life is&#xA;  defined by the tread area of the tire having a tread depth of 1/32” (1&#xA;  mm) or more.  For Off road and Motocross, the tire life is defined by&#xA;  the tread area of the tire having a remaining tread depth of at least&#xA;  20% of the original new tread depth. This warranty is extended to the&#xA;  first retail purchaser of the tire(s) in the U.S.A and Canada with the&#xA;  original purchase invoice or to the original owner of the motorcycle&#xA;  on which Pirelli tires came mounted as Original Equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Pirelli tire becomes unserviceable due to workmanship or material&#xA;  anomalies during its normal service life and within the first 50% of&#xA;  tread life, the tire will be replaced with the same or comparable tire&#xA;  at no charge to the owner*. If a Pirelli tire becomes unserviceable&#xA;  due to workmanship or material anomalies after the first 50% of tread&#xA;  life, the owner must pay the cost for a comparable new Pirelli brand&#xA;  tire at a value of 50% of the dealer selling price*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ride related warranty claims must be submitted within the first 2/32”&#xA;  (1.6 mm) of wear or the first 1000 miles to be considered.  If&#xA;  accepted they will be paid at 100% of the dealer selling price*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Note: This Limited Warranty does not cover any associated service charges, including costs associated with mounting and balancing of the&#xA;  tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A tire has delivered its original usable tread life and is considered&#xA;  to be 100% worn when the treadwear indicators (1/32” tread remaining)&#xA;  become visible, regardless of age or mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What Is Not Covered by the Limited Warranty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tires on any motorcycle registered and normally operated outside the United States of America or Canada&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which are misapplied due to insufficient Speed Rating, or Load Index, or undersized or oversized tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which are misapplied due to improper mixing of radial and bias tires&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires damaged from improper mounting/demounting practices, abuse, misuse, or neglect&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tire dealer / retailer services: mounting, dismounting, and balancing costs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires in which anything other than air or nitrogen has been used as the support medium&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires injected with liquid balancer or sealant or any other balancing material.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which have been modified by the addition or removal of material or any tire intentionally altered to change its appearance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which have been retreaded or regrooved&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires used in any form of racing or any high performance riding events including high performance riding schools/instruction and track day events&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires removed as a pair when only one tire can be claimed, or is suspect of a claim&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Ride related anomalies after the first 2/32” (1.6 mm) of treadwear &#xA;  Tires which become unserviceable because of tire operation in excess of tire/wheel manufacturers’ specifications and recommendations, including spinning&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which become unserviceable because of a mechanical irregularity in the motorcycle such as misalignment, defective brakes, defective suspension parts or improper rims&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires damaged by fire, chemical corrosion, vandalism, wrecks, theft, run while flat, underinflated, overinflated or abused during servicing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires affected by flat spotting caused by improper transport or storage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which become unserviceable because of road hazard injuries (e.g., nails, glass, metal objects) or other penetrations or snags, bruises or impact damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which have been run on a dynamometer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires worn 100%, which is when any treadwear indicator (1/32” tread remaining) become visible regardless of age or mileage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires which develop surface cracks due to use in low ambient temperatures, except for race tires &#xA;  Labor to install a replacement tire&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Claims for irregular wear or fast wear&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tires used on a vehicle towing a trailer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Owner’s Responsibilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The owner/rider is responsible for proper tire care and maintenance.&#xA;  Maintain the correct tire pressure recommended by frequently checking&#xA;  the tire pressure with an accurate pressure gauge.  Using Pirelli’s&#xA;  pressure suggestions based on load will improve tire life and your&#xA;  satisfaction with the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAUTION:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please be aware that it is important to ensure that, before fitting&#xA;  the suggested tires, the fitting is allowed by the technical&#xA;  specifications of the motorcycle, the motorcycle manufacturer and the&#xA;  relevant homologations. Pirelli does not express any view as to the&#xA;  compatibility of the wheel/tire combination with the technical&#xA;  specifications for the chassis and motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;​TO MAINTAIN MOTORCYCLE DYNAMICS AND LOAD CARRYING CAPACITY,&#xA;  REPLACEMENT TIRES MUST ALWAYS HAVE A LOAD INDEX AND SPEED RATING THAT&#xA;  EQUALS OR EXCEEDS THAT OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIRES OF THE&#xA;  MOTORCYCLE. How to Make a Claim under This Warranty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Owner: To receive consideration for warranty coverage, tire(s) must be&#xA;  returned to any Pirelli authorized dealer. Tire Inspection Personnel&#xA;  designated by Pirelli make the final determination regarding&#xA;  qualification for Workmanship and Materials coverage on tires&#xA;  submitted to Pirelli via an authorized Pirelli dealer.Pirelli’s Tire&#xA;  Inspection Personnel will then make a determination regarding&#xA;  qualification for Workmanship and Materials coverage on tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;​When making a claim under the terms of this warranty, you must&#xA;  present the tire along with the proof of purchase to any authorized&#xA;  Pirelli Dealer. Once tires are returned to Pirelli by an authorized&#xA;  Pirelli dealer and credit has been issued, submitted tires become the&#xA;  property of Pirelli. To locate an authorized Pirelli Dealer in your&#xA;  area, refer to the Dealer Locator at www.us.Pirelli.com. Replacement&#xA;  Costs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Pirelli tire is found to have a warrantable condition, and has&#xA;  50% or more of its original tread depth remaining, the consumer will&#xA;  be eligible for a 100% credit toward the purchase of a new Pirelli&#xA;  tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Pirelli tire is found to have a warrantable condition, and has&#xA;  less than 50% of its original tread depth remaining, but has not reach&#xA;  the treadwear indicators, the consumer will be eligible for a 50%&#xA;  credit toward the purchase of a new Pirelli tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;THIS LIMITED WARRANTY IS THE ONLY EXPRESS WARRANTY GIVEN BY PIRELLI. &#xA;  PIRELLI DOES NOT MAKE ANY OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY, INCLUDING WITHOUT&#xA;  LIMITATION THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A&#xA;  PARTICULAR PURPOSE (WHICH ARE EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED).  PIRELLI DOES NOT&#xA;  AUTHORIZE ANY OTHER PERSON, INCLUDING AUTHORIZED PIRELLI DEALERS OR&#xA;  MOTORCYCLE MANUFACTURERS, OR MOTOCYCLE DEALERS, TO CHANGE THIS&#xA;  WARRANTY OR CREATE ANY OTHER OBLIGATION IN CONNECTION WITH PIRELLI&#xA;  TIRES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;THE RIGHTS AND REMEDIES AVAILABLE ARE LIMITED TO THOSE RIGHTS AND&#xA;  REMEDIES STATED IN THIS LIMITED WARRANTY.  ALL OTHER REMEDIES ARE&#xA;  EXCLUDED.  IN NO EVENT SHALL PIRELLI BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY&#xA;  CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL OR SPECIAL DAMAGE(S) IN CONNECTION WITH A&#xA;  PIRELLI TIRE, WHETHER FOR BREACH OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY, OTHER&#xA;  CONTRACT BREACH, NEGLIGENCE OR OTHER TORT, OR STRICT LIABILITY THEORY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;​Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or&#xA;  consequential damages, so the above exclusion may not apply to you.&#xA;  This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have&#xA;  other rights which vary from state to state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T21:42:38.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30423" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:59:51.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The longer you run it, the more damage you are going to cause. This will incur more cost when you do go to get it fixed due to the parts involved. Depending on which valve(s) is (are) sticking, you could be doing damage every time you start it up. I'm talking about the exhaust valve, as if one is open during the combustion cycle, you've damaged a valve and the seat most likely. This could also be damaging your cam shaft(s) and all other valve train related parts as well. I'd suspect, though, you've already done enough damage to need replacement of these parts. When things aren't working right, they tend to wear fast. Only getting the engine apart at this point will truly tell you the extent of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, though, you can probably get a rebuilt head off of eBay and have it installed for cheaper than what it would cost to get the work done at this point. That wouldn't take a machinist, just a mechanic with some knowledge. There'd be a few parts to be purchased to make it happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T21:59:51.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29934" CreationDate="2016-06-03T22:35:37.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the float as well. Sometimes depending upon what material it's made the float can be somewhat soaked with fuel changing the weight of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15910" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T22:35:37.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30420" CreationDate="2016-06-03T22:44:52.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found manual &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manuals365.com/download/renault/renault_scenic_owners_manual_2006.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuse box information is on pages 5.18 and 5.19, if you download the PDF:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1YCP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1YCP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StZ2N.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/StZ2N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like it depends on whether your Scenic is a UK? model (steering wheel on the right) or a rest-of-Europe? model (steering wheel on the left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For right-side steering wheel, the fuse box is in the left-hand side of the glove compartment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For left-side steering wheel, the fuse box is to the left of the steering column, underneath some controls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do either of these match the model of Scenic you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T22:44:52.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T22:51:03.447" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a circuit to disengage power to the start switch which is separate from key switch when engine has started so there is no chance of accidentally engaging the starter with the already operating engine.&#xA;I have the separate start switch and know how to wire it with a relay. You turn on the key then use to start button. But then the button must electrically disconnect so there is no chance of accidentally pressing it and engaging the starter when the motor is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have repeated myself as I seem to get the same answers in how to wire up the start button! That I know how to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18834" OwnerDisplayName="LibranRabbit" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T23:58:58.247" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T23:58:58.247" Title="Power to separate starter switch only when motor isn't running" Tags="|electrical|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T23:28:13.090" Score="10" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was looking at a 06 Pontiac G6 2.4l with a complaint of low power on hills. Had been at another shop to have the transmission checked and they referred the customer to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road test confirms car doesn't go anywhere fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't really think this through when I was taking captures and failed to get a longer zoomed out view on cylinder 1, the ignition timing mark, was short on time etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All captures are in Park. Using a Snap-on EEPV302AT 500 PSI pressure transducer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylinder 1 running compression idle to WOT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9HCuu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9HCuu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of the exhaust valve event where the intake valve opens looks weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlK0r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlK0r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look right but what do I know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So onto cylinder two...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranking compression @ WOT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pFk0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pFk0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK... how about running compression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylinder 2 idle to 3000 RPM to WOT zoomed out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OifWA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OifWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's zoom in a little...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntOvj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntOvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still seeing a pressure spike at the end of the exhaust stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in on the WOT portion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLc6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLc6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in at idle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iu70P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iu70P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I ran out of time and had to pack up. I plan on taking more captures on Monday with the B1S1 O2S removed. And confirming exhaust backpressure with a transducer in the o2 bung.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in pictures 1, 2, 5, and 7 what exactly is happening when the intake valve is opening and the exhaust valve is closing? Is this because since both valves are open and the piston is at TDC, it's sucking more air out of the intake manifold and results in the pressure spike due to the exhaust being potentially plugged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In picture 6 this is kind of what I expected to see with a plugged exhaust. Would there be another explanation for the pressure spike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In pictures 3 and 7 why are the exhaust and intake events almost the same? It looks like it's slowly building pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confirmed exhaust backpressure with a gauge, around 3 PSI @ idle and 8 PSI @ 3000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did another in cylinder capture on cylinder 2. Even with the o2 sensor removed the waveform was similar to picture 6. Very puzzling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After repair @ 3000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwmQy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwmQy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus picture off a Mini&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTSR8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTSR8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:37:51.730" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:37:51.730" Title="More In Cylinder Pressure Testing Questions" Tags="|diagnostics|compression|combustion-cycle|four-stroke|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T23:37:18.637" Score="4" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience trying to fasten/connect a small diameter steel tube to a cast iron exhaust manifold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a 1979 Ford F-100 with a 300 CID/4.9L inline 6 engine.  Part of the emissions system includes a steel tube that fits into a small, drilled hole on the exhaust manifold.  The other end of that tube hooks up to a vacuum hose that then connects to a temperature sensor inside the air cleaner assembly.  This is part of the control system for the flapper valve located in the air intake throat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I can't get the tube to stay in the hole in the exhaust manifold.  As best as I can tell it is a press fit only - no threads, no fittings or clamping mechanism, etc.  But while I can push the tube into the hole, it always falls out very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at high temperature JB Weld, but I don't think it will last on the high temperatures, an exhaust manifold can get to (500-1000 deg. F., as I understand).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are there any better ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17803" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T23:48:14.180" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T06:18:19.747" Title="Trying to fasten a steel tube to an exhaust manifold" Tags="|ford|exhaust|f100|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30431" CreationDate="2016-06-03T23:58:55.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get rid of that flapper air cleaner system, unless you live somewhere with a winter that insists you have it.  Plug the manifold hole.  OR...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a pro to braze the riser tube, most likely done while still on the truck.  OR...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a calm and mellow person to &lt;em&gt;carefully&lt;/em&gt; drill/tap the exhaust manifold, to install a compression to male NPT adapter fitting with a metal ferrule.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those things were always a disaster.  And that accordion hoses always popped off and rotted away.  Emissions really wasn't an issue, so if you can get it started cold and allow a bit extra warm_up, you should be fine with a &quot;scorched earth&quot; #1 type of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T23:58:55.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T01:33:01.800" Score="5" ViewCount="24466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mazda 323 Astina (called something else outside of Australia), 1997 model. When the weather is cold the car sometimes slips out of 5th gear into neutral. It only ever does it once a day, except for really cold days when it might do it twice. After the car has been running continuously for 30 minutes it doesn't do it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time it has done this I have been either accelerating or coasting with a light pressure on the accelerator. The gear stick jumps into the neutral position and the car instantly revs up as there is no longer any resistance by being in gear. It has never done this in any gear expect 5th, but I don't spend a lot of time driving in any other gear. The point of 1st to 4th gears is to get you to 5th gear! What could cause this to happen only when the car itself is cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16725" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:25:03.197" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T07:14:30.043" Title="Why does my manual gear sometimes slip into neutral?" Tags="|transmission|mazda|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30442" CreationDate="2016-06-04T03:07:56.983" Score="2" ViewCount="3554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need of U-Joints for my 06 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext Cab Short Bed Z71 LT3 L33 4L60e pickup truck. The issue I'm having is, when I looked it up on RockAuto.com (my go to site), I found there are about 80-90 different U-Joints they have listed. There is a huge overlap of what &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be right and I don't have clue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have a good reference or a good way to tell how to which U-Joint is needed for any given application? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a specific way to measure them which allows a person to find them easily or to match them to what is needed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do auto makers tend to stay with one size across their product lines? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other pertinent information you might have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T11:40:29.170" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T12:36:01.267" Title="U-Joints for a Pickup" Tags="|chevrolet|silverado|u-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2016-06-04T05:11:14.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of short runs will degrade oil faster, but fully synthetic will be fine once a year. Even 12,000 miles is fine.  Change it at the end of summer.   People waste money changing their oil every 3000 miles/3 months.   That's when the oil was not as good and they used to strip engines to decoke on dyno mineral oil without much detergents in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17812" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T08:37:46.763" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T08:37:46.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30435" CreationDate="2016-06-04T07:51:28.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely to be a worn 5th gear synchronizer.  Replacement can be quite expensive as the gearbox will need to be removed,  then stripped for the synchronizer to be replaced. Normally as the gearbox will be removed its a good time to replace the clutch too if its not been replaced already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T07:51:28.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29174" CreationDate="2016-06-04T08:24:32.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a normal clutch the plate or plates are either locked or separated  depending on whether the pedal/lever is engaged or not. The clutch pedal/lever also controls how much the clutch will slip at various pedal/lever positions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slipper clutch is locked when forward drive is required. However when off throttle the clutch friction plates are allowed to slip as spring pressure separates them and allows an adjustable amount of drag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T08:24:32.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30445" CreationDate="2016-06-04T12:18:19.300" Score="5" ViewCount="3383" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a four stroke gasoline engine (inline-four, digital fuel injection) starts with starting fluid (but not without it, and stops firing when the spray is removed), is this an indication that the spark plugs are working and that the timing of the sparks is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, is it possible that the starting fluid is simply auto igniting due to compression alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see on the Wikipedia article: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starting_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starting_fluid&lt;/a&gt; that the autoignition temperature is low, at only 160 degrees C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this would depend on the particular starting fluid. But even if it does depend on the particular starting fluid, can some statistical answer be given? E.g. that &quot;in most cases the starting fluid will start the engine even when all the spark plugs are non-functional&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17815" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T14:56:17.143" Title="Starting fluid, does it require a spark or autoignite?" Tags="|starting|gasoline|fuel-injection|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30436" CreationDate="2016-06-04T12:28:09.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK so this is pretty specific and I had to look through 4 pages of u-joints after narrowing down by engine/transmission and body style. Yet there were even more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making assumptions at this point, as quadrasteer isn't that common and since you said you have a short bed, you should have a 1 piece aluminum drive shaft. This would probably be easier by VIN but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this it's a NAPA part number, SKF brand. Should be easy to do an interchange on the number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UJS UJ534G This looks like it's used for the front and rear my vision got blurry around page 3 so you're probably going to have to measure the outer diameter of the bearing cap on the u-joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;w/ Extended Cab;w/ Automatic Transmission;w/ Regular Cab;w/ Standard&#xA;  Bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bearing Cap O.D. 1 : 1.125&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Construction : ISR (Inside Retained)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Inside Lock Up 1 : 2.557&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Lube Fitting Location : In Cross&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Series : Mechanics 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Style : 4 Grooved Round Bearings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one from a different manufacturer with a nifty measuring diagram&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwy3h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwy3h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TWD 5795X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Body Styles : Pickup (Ext'd Cab 4 Dr.) Comments: Front Shaft Front And&#xA;  Rear Joint;w/ Standard Bed;Non-Greasable Per Car Qty: 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bearing Cap Diameter : 1.125&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bearing Plate Diameter : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bolt Hole Circle Diameter : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Cross Dimensions : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Fits Driveline Series : SPL25 / S44&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Greasable : No&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Outside Snap Ring U-Joint Cross Trunnion Diameter : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Outside Snap Ring U-Joint Overall Cross Length : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Snap Ring Dimension : 2.556&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Snap Ring Inside&#xA;  U-Joint Cross Trunnion Diameter : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  U-Joint Bearing Type : Inside Snap Ring&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  U-Joint End Yoke Dimensions : N/A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Contents : U-Joint, Caps &amp;amp; Snap Rings&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  UNSPSC : 25173810&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the other questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good reference or a good way to tell how to which&#xA;  U-Joint is needed for any given application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe something exists to make this easier but I'm still stuck in the past when it comes to looking up parts. Most trucks have far too many options for this to ever be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example on this truck you need to know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The size of the bed standard/long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The size of the cab&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;standard/crew/extended&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which transmission style automatic/manual?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which Transmission 4l60e/5lm60?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4WD or 2WD?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1500/2500/3500/HD/etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the truck have Quadrasteer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the driveshaft aluminum or steel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many sections on the driveshaft? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on previous configurations which u-joint front, rear or&#xA;possibly center?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I missed an option or two here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a specific way to measure them which allows a person to find&#xA;  them easily or to match them to what is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See attached diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do auto makers tend to stay with one size across their product lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience... No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T12:36:01.267" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T12:36:01.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31626" CreationDate="2016-06-04T14:38:38.320" Score="7" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving this car around yesterday quite a bit with no problems, when I stopped to go into a store for a few minutes. After I came out, I started the car, and the brakes went right to the floor with no resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes were working fine before, no sponginess. After restarting the car several times, and pumping the brakes, I couldn't get any pressure at all in the brakes, they just go right to the floor. I couldn't find any fluid leaking around the tires or the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove around the corner to where I was going with the e-brake, and parked it. The car sat for maybe a half an hour. When I came out to start it and try it again, everything worked fine. I have been trying to see if I can get them to fail for the last couple days and everything seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake fluid was at an acceptable level as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might have happened? I was thinking it was maybe just something electrical that failed to start the brake pump up when I started it. Is my master cylinder going bad? It sure seems OK now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17818" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T17:06:13.073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T00:51:11.700" Title="Oldsmobile Alero (2004) brake issue" Tags="|brakes|oldsmobile|alero|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30441" CreationDate="2016-06-04T14:56:17.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is cold, there is no way the combustion chamber is going to get up to 160 degrees C. even when the air is compressed.  So your problem is with the fuel system; either the fuel pump, or something in the fuel injection system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T14:56:17.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30447" CreationDate="2016-06-04T17:54:57.633" Score="9" ViewCount="27892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a couple of videos on how to change tires and I keep hearing that it is recommended to loosen the lug nuts while tires are touching the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed this advice when I changed the first 3 tires, but then I decided to remove the 4th tire while it is still up air (loosen lug nuts star shaped method with impact wrench) and it looked fine to me (I'm not a mechanic so anything would be OK/fine) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was speculating it was because of the manual wrench that you need to have the tire be touching the ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17819" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T18:45:25.053" LastActivityDate="2019-08-11T02:55:22.020" Title="Are there any risks if I use impact wrench to loosen lug nuts while the tire not touching ground?" Tags="|tires|tools|lug-nut|impact-wrench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30446" CreationDate="2016-06-04T18:41:51.493" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be correct. There should be no issue of using the impact with the wheel off the ground. You are exactly right in that the tire should be on the ground when using a breaker bar or tire iron. The reason for this, besides the wheel spinning and you never getting the lug loosened, is because you could torque the car over and cause it to fall off of the jack or jack stand. When on the ground, there is no worry about this. With an impact gun, you aren't applying any torque to the wheel, either. You are applying shock and inertia to the lug to get it to come off. Do not use the impact to tighten the lug nuts, though. It is &lt;em&gt;very easy&lt;/em&gt; to over torque them. Use a ratchet and finish up with a torque wrench for accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T18:41:51.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T19:43:13.773" Score="1" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Mercury Sable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating from stop sign, red light, attempting to get on the highway the car has no power when applying pressure to the gas pedal.  Struggling to get past 20-25 mph. Once I release pressure on the gas pedal the car will get up to 35 mph and will run fine gaining speed and going 60 mph with no problem. When I come upon a red light or stop sign again it does the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17822" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T19:50:27.263" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T19:50:27.263" Title="2003 Mercury Sable - lack of power and hesitation when accelerating" Tags="|troubleshooting|power|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30446" CreationDate="2016-06-04T21:23:20.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree wholeheartedly with both Ben and Paulster.  However, I use a high-power air impact for to tighten, on it's lowest setting, and also have a selection of color &quot;torque stix&quot; with a minimum of three passes (snug, torque, final) while in the air.  While not perfect, I think this is a reasonable compromise between my efficiency needs and returning a safe proper job to the customer.  The torque stix are not perfect, but neither is a non-calibrated click or beam wrench (which can be abused just as much as any other torquing method).  My only real problem with dropping the car on the ground to torque, is I work on a lot of lug-centric old stuff... I'd rather let the lug cone do its centering work in the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loosen, run what you got.  Bigger is better in this case.  Especially when dealing with VW/Volvo/MB-Sprinter type fasteners that are special cap bolts rather than nuts.  These can get horribly corrosion welded to a different-metal wheel.  Getting the hub/rotor/wheel holes aligned at the same time is always an adventure.  I made some alignment studs on a lathe to simplify this for the cars that use it.  And I clean and &lt;em&gt;sparingly&lt;/em&gt; use anti-seize, even though I know that's a never-ending debate outside of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would say your focus should be about putting the wheels back on properly, with less regard on how one takes them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T21:23:20.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30452" CreationDate="2016-06-04T22:04:41.143" Score="25" ViewCount="69739" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father (an engineer, but not an auto mechanic) taught me to use a tiny dab of machine grease on the thread (not the rim) of each wheel bolt. This would help against corrosion, and help when loosening the bolt. We've traditionally always switched summer/winter wheels ourselves, on the premise of time and money saved for a simple operation. (Yes, we do use a torque wrench and check the bolts after 100km.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online and offline, there seems to be a great deal of argument &lt;strong&gt;whether or not to lubricate wheel bolt threads...&lt;/strong&gt; has this site been able to find a canonical answer? I searched through the tagged questions but didn't find it even mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to make an informed decision myself, what sorts of pro or contra arguments should I consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T13:20:56.300" Title="Grease on wheel bolts or not?" Tags="|wheels|lug-nut|wheel-lugs|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31452" CreationDate="2016-06-04T23:36:34.110" Score="3" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla. I took it to AutoZone because my check engine light was on, and they plugged in some electronic thing that read the problems. What computer / electronic system is keeping track of those problems? I'd like to understand it better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus that check engine light has been reset like 50 times, and it just stays on for no reason. It's been on since I was in high school (like 8 years). If I could learn enough about the computer, maybe I can write some code to keep it from coming on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17827" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T15:52:27.620" Title="What computer does a Toyota Corolla use?" Tags="|cel|computer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2016-06-04T23:50:24.650" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do exactly what the manufacturer of the vehicle states in service information. Why do I say this?  The nut rotational friction and bolt clamping force are both affected by the choice of lubricant used or lack thereof. Almost all OEM's specify no lube. This is done for several reasons. Dry results in the most thread rotational friction, a most desirable attribute, this significantly reduces the chances of the lugs backing off and the wheel coming off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest concern is a wheel coming off at high speed. This is a highly dangerous event because the wheel accelerates ahead of the vehicle as it comes off at great speed and can and has caused deaths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of slightly less importance, but still relevant, is that lubricated threads create a higher clamping force for a given torque than specified. This can stretch the studs or bolts, warp the hub flange and/or brake rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an Mechanical Engineer and work in the vehicle repair industry. This topic has been a topic of some debate on professional industry forums. Much to the concern of the informed on said forums is that a significant portion of professional technicians refuse to heed the OEM specifications for both lubricants and torque specifications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T23:50:24.650" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:55:46.197" Score="4" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving I activated the high beam (headlights) and the rpm-meter started flickering for a moment and then dropped down to 0. Stopped the car and shut off the engine for 10 min for other reasons. Then the engine wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. No starter cables were available but managed to tow it to start. Drove 10km to where I'm staying and left the car running for a while in case the battery was just low (both battery and alternator are 14 months old). The brake and ABS lights were lit while not revving the engine but while revving a lot of lights went on and off. I started to hear a fast clicking sound from the floor area. I located the sound to a box marked &quot;UNIT ASSY-DRL&quot;. The sound stopped when I unplugged the box, and started again when connected again. No other changes noticed. I made a quick Google search and not much info but I saw something about headlights so I turned on the high beams again. The engine stopped the same  second. After that it won't start (no starter sound). Still no starter cables. I'm on holiday right now and far away from home and my tools and meters. There are no workshops open until after the weekend and then I was hoping to be on my way home :-/ :-/ Do you have any idea what the problem could be or what I could do to maybe locate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17828" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T00:23:11.947" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T00:23:36.877" Title="Terracan 2.9 crdi 2004 won't start" Tags="|engine|electrical|starting|headlight|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2016-06-05T01:27:16.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Golf MKIV and it did this also. Lost a/c, fans, overheated. The B+ wire from the alternator to the battery appears to be too small a gauge. I went to a larger gauge wire and replaced the fuse block on top of the battery. It also appears that the contacts for the three green fuses are not to tight fitting. My wife's a/c went out again last week. I moved the fuse around in it's socket and the fans and a/c clutch would then go on and off. I pulled out the fuse to slightly warp the contacts for better contact and I got the ends of my finger blistered for my effort. There was also a black arc literally burnt into the fuse contact. So when you see a company marketing their fuse block as good as the original, you might want to question that. A very shabby condition for such a technologically advanced company. Just no conscience...ergo the TDIs of late, and this too. Very disappointing. This is the only problem we have had with this car in 11 years and 112,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17829" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T01:27:16.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30451" CreationDate="2016-06-05T03:45:05.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The controller is called the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). On this model it will be located near the glove box. It is made by Denso Corp. These units and the software that control the system are proprietary and tampering with any of the components or parts or software is against the law in most countries. In the US tampering with any part of the system is a federal crime with a stated fine of $25,000 per occurrence.  Changes to the software can be made; the software then is to be re-certified to ensure that it meets tailpipe emission limits. That said there are many who have figured out how to get around the regulators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to repair whatever has failed that is causing the trouble codes to set.  The CEL does not set for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T15:52:27.620" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T15:52:27.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3213" CreationDate="2016-06-05T04:54:20.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I shaved .060&quot; off the head gasket surface using a 8&quot; wide belt sander at work. This increases the compression and REALLY provides more torque when the grass gets thick. I use 93 octane gas and have no heating problems. It really works great! I even installed this modified head on the brand new lawnmower I bought. Of course a clean filter and sharp blade are a MUST on any lawn mower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18832" LastEditorUserId="31850" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T17:49:48.737" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T17:49:48.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22006" CreationDate="2016-06-05T07:02:40.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They could have left a loose bolt on the preasure plate for the clutch and when you disengage the clutch, the bolt might hit the shell of the trany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T07:02:40.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T12:48:09.463" Score="5" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5163/solution-against-motorcycle-gasoline-theft&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, and I believe the answer there is excellent. But what I'm asking for is the list below and what to make of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people in my neighbourhood have been stealing gasoline from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewale.com/honda-bikes/cbtwister/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my motorcycle.&lt;/a&gt; (One of my friends caught them red handed the other day, and they fled.) They did it by switching a lever and disconnecting this hose so that they could drain it out into a container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVYoz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVYoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I figure I need some sort of lock. But none of the local shops have this type of lock for my particular model of motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I searched for it online, and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicky.in/accessories/honda-cb-twister-bike-accessories/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; in an online store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Body Cover&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Buzzer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Craush (sic) Guard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Engine Guard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Front Guard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Front Inner Box&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Gear Lever&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Hand Grip&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Pillion Holder&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Scooter Body Cover&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Tank Cover   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will any of these parts protect my bike from such theft? I have searched everywhere for a petrol lock for my particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any other suggestions for how to prevent this, that's welcome too. Feel free to ping me in chat also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16833" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T16:39:30.057" Title="Which of these parts can protect my gasoline from theft?" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|locks|fuel-tank|theft-prevention|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28423" CreationDate="2016-06-05T14:51:46.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paints that are used for aircraft are different as they need to sustain changing temperature etc. Also it is very thick, usually 12 mm (.5 inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:21:26.577" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:21:26.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T17:40:11.870" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 1998 Infinity, and it has been running poorly, with a poor gas usage. I went and had a parts store run the computer, It gave me the code Multiple miss fire, along with Knock sensor, Evap canister purge ,and both oxy sensors. Can one problem make all the others go away, or can it all be these parts. I am not that good with the newer cars and all these sensors. Also, how can I check the plugs with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18838" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T18:05:19.750" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T18:05:19.750" Title="Multiple misfire on a 1998 Infinity Code" Tags="|engine|misfire|infiniti|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31458" CreationDate="2016-06-05T17:42:03.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take the screw out of the center of the knob. Remove it, then put it on only to shut off or turn on the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T17:42:03.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30453" CreationDate="2016-06-05T17:57:23.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume that the drl is either a relay or a circuit breaker for the running lights. You may have either a short circuit (which would cause a circuit breaker to open) or a broken or loose cable or wire. Check your battery connections and cables to make sure everything is clean and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T00:23:36.877" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T00:23:36.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2016-06-05T18:07:48.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be more likely to use an anti-sieze type of grease on studs or bolts that are more prone to rust.  I think that the conical mating surfaces of the nut / wheel provide the friction to keep the nuts tight, so lubricated threads helps to preserve the threads with repeated removal, installation and re-torque of the nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T18:07:48.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12534" CreationDate="2016-06-05T18:12:51.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it turns over but doesn't start change the spark plugs if it's been sitting for a couple months&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18841" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T18:12:51.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T18:15:04.300" Score="5" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/30436/4152&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about finding the proper U-Joint for my truck (Chevrolet Silverado EC/SB 1500 4x4 Z71 LT3 L33). I'm planning on purchasing U-Joints which have zerks in them, so I can keep them greased on a regular basis. I know that the zerk should be placed on the compression side (on the clockwise from the input shaft as you'd be looking from the front of the vehicle back) to prevent problems with stress risers. My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it matter whether the zerk is facing towards the front or the back of the vehicle? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If changing multiple U-Joints, should they all be facing the same way, or does it matter?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T20:11:18.630" Title="Proper way to install a U-Joint" Tags="|u-joint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2016-06-05T18:19:59.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a seperate fuse or relay for the compressor, then you could remove either.  There should be an electrical connector near the compressor that could be unplugged, or you could cut the belt if there is nothing else driven by that belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T18:19:59.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="677" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:32:47.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it would be best to replace it, they are not expensive for aftermarket parts. A good used one would be better than patching it. For best results, you will need to pull a good vacuum on the system to eliminate any air or moisture in the system before charging.  It would be best to have it done professionally to minimize release of refrigerant into the atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:32:47.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31466" CreationDate="2016-06-05T20:11:18.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually install the zerks so they are accessible first, then lined up where they can be greased at the same time (at the same angle).  I think most u-joints have two zerks at 180 degrees so they should be easy to get without rotating the driveshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T20:11:18.630" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T20:36:35.133" Score="3" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has an '05 Honda Element and when we turn the A/C on there is a very faint whining sound. The sound is not constant, it goes on and off and you have to listen closely to hear it. The A/C is working fine, but does anyone know what might be causing the noise and if there is anything that needs to be done to prevent a future failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17460" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T23:28:05.963" Title="faint whining sound coming from air conditioner" Tags="|honda|maintenance|ac|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-05T20:37:44.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One insight I got in a similar question about house windows on a different SE site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assumption that you want unbreakable windows in a car might be wrong. If you crash your car in a way that jams your doors - e.g. someone rams you against a wall from the side - the side and rear windows provide a quick method of escape if you have an emergency hammer designed to break through the tempered glass used in side windows. (Which is designed to shatter into small, blunt shards.) The windshield is made out of laminated glass which won't break anyway, precisely so road debris doesn't destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18844" LastEditorUserId="18844" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T20:57:26.797" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T20:57:26.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T21:05:29.073" Score="4" ViewCount="1844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 Honda Civic DX Hatchback.  I tried to start the vehicle after running it for some time.  It did not start.  When I turn the ignition switch, the battery light comes on (normal) and brake light comes on (normal) and the check engine light comes on momentarily and then goes out.  There is no start and no crank.  I checked the operation of the solenoid and starter by - bypassing the ignition circuit - and the car starts and runs normally.  I checked the ignition switch in accordance with the shop manual and it is operating properly. I checked the starter relay and the clutch interlock relay (it is a manual transmission) and they are operating normally.  I do not have any indication on the ECU with the exception of one momentarily blip when turning the ignition switch to the starting position. I checked the wiring for the starting circuit and found no problems.  I am looking for ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18846" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T22:00:34.613" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T22:00:34.613" Title="Honda Civic- no start-no crank" Tags="|honda|starting|civic|ignition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T21:27:50.167" Score="4" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;My abs light comes on but then it goes away my problem is when im coming to a complete stop you hear a noise a little motor sound and then the left side driver side like it pulls to the right side it does it repeatedly when im coming to a complete stop. On the same side.I change front pads still the sameand then i had some fluid on the drive way.maybe it's not getting fluid in the right side i seen some fluid uder the plastic container that holds the brake fluid like a aluminum peace holding plastic container,maybe master cylinder please help with your opinions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18847" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T22:11:35.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T23:11:33.387" Title="2003 chchevorlet S-10 pickup truck" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|s10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31472" CreationDate="2016-06-05T21:55:44.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check everything. If you can power the S terminal on the starter and get the car to start than it's on the other side of the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the relay again and make sure when someone presses the clutch the relay coil is grounded.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses, the relay should have power on two pins, one that powers the relay coil while cranking and one that passes power to the starter S terminal when the relay closes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for ground on the pin that goes from the relay to the S terminal on the starter. If you don't have ground on the pin there is issue with the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T21:55:44.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2016-06-05T23:11:33.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to jack it up and check the brakes and look to see if the fluid is coming from the brakes. It would be on the tire or the wheel on the inside.  Look it over and try to pinpoint the origin of the fluid leak first. While it is up, check for any looseness by moving the tire left - right and up-down. You could have a bad caliper, bad wheel bearing or something broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T23:11:33.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31470" CreationDate="2016-06-05T23:16:52.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like normal operation of the compressor for the a/c.  It is run by a belt from the engine. It is normal for it to cycle on and off while the a/c is on or while the defrost is on.  As long as it doesn't sound harsh or like it is switching off and on very frequently (every 3-5 seconds), then it is probably ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T23:16:52.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31480" CreationDate="2016-06-06T00:24:18.517" Score="4" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of replacing a leaking water pump on our 2002 ALH TDI and have finally gotten to the point where I'm trying to remove the old pump. So far no joy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the new pump from DieselGeek and it came with a set of studs that are supposed to act as extractors (you pull the three bolts holding the pump in and replace them with the studs which have a section that is supposed to cut threads in the pump to push it out against the bottom of the bolt holes) unfortunately they don't seem to be developing any &quot;push&quot; – I'm thinking the holes in the current pump may be too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas for what to try? I've tried prying, but it is hard to get enough room to develop any force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T01:06:51.853" Title="VW Mk4 TDI (ALH) – Suggestions for Removing Stuck Water Pump" Tags="|vw|jetta|water-pump|tdi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3072" CreationDate="2016-06-06T00:52:04.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. I have used some of your troubleshooting issues to direct my issue. As I found out similar questionable possibilities to resolve my issue I, went to look at my left tail light assembly again. Utilizing some of the resolved scenario's, in exorcising an issue, I resolved ﻿the problem and is now fixed as I was pulled over this morning. My concern was a major.electrical problem. Well. Here is what noticed and how I fixed it. I bought ﻿the vehicle with ﻿the light out. Fixed it with another light assembly purchased at Cagles in Muskogee County,OK. It worked. After about 4 mo. It went out again. Switched ﻿the lights and worked again. About 3 weeks later. Pulled over. No ticket, but a concern. I pryed ﻿the silver prongs toward ﻿the light at all three areas at both lights, used a sharp knife . In addition , I used plyers to pull down ﻿the three brass looking prongs. Did this at six areas. I noticed one silver prong to ﻿the light assembly was seated a little from a heat issue. Pulled it out of the melted area a little to increase contact per continuity. Long story short. It works. But a noticeable area of heat is there concern. Works for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18848" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T00:52:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31478" CreationDate="2016-06-06T01:06:51.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what ended up working for me was to cut a piece of 1x2 lumber (I couldn't fit a bigger piece from above) about 24&quot; long and I braced it against the pump drive cog and pounded on it with a five pound sledge. Once I saw it start to move a bit I crawled under the car (which was up on jack stands with the front wheels, fender skirts, skid plate and side panels removed) and hit the cog again going up using a piece of 2x4 about 12&quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did that a couple of times and it dropped right out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T01:06:51.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31484" CreationDate="2016-06-06T01:14:15.030" Score="7" ViewCount="1871" Body="&lt;p&gt;so, when I turn the key to start position on the Accord (EX) no sound is made.  You can push start it, and the battery is fine - lights, horn, everything.  But there is absolutely no noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it's either the solenoid or the starter.  Leaning toward the solenoid, as I think if it was the starter you'd at least hear a click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALSO: you can push start the car and run it fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: How can I trouble-shoot which it is?  I see the cable coming from the (+) on the battery to the starter, and also a wire going to a wiring block above it.  I'm thinking the solenoid is built on to the side of the starter, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18849" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T08:20:14.993" Title="Starter problem with 1994 Honda Accord" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T02:25:08.347" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 L Vin C. DTC P0171 when I went to change 02 Sensor. I saw that my upstream 02 sensor connector harness side got melted, was to close the the exhaust. Don't know how to find which wire goes where, how do I figure this out. Your help will be so much appreciated. I have a wire diagram, still need help please. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18850" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T02:25:08.347" Title="02 upstream wire harness diagram" Tags="|p0171|code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31481" CreationDate="2016-06-06T08:20:14.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, yes the starter solenoid is attached to the starter motor. And yes from your description it sure sounds like a problem starter.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you doing this work yourself, or having it done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First have you checked ALL fuses and relays in the system? Do that first. There is likely two different fuse boxes to contend with, one inside the passenger compartment and one inside the engine compartment. Check your owners manual for the location of the fuses &amp;amp; relays for the starter system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those are okay, removing the starter is as easy as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove ground strap at the battery (ENSURE IT WON'T FALL BACK ON BATTERY!) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnect electrical leads from the starter &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnect three bolts that hold starter to bell housing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the starter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty easy job depending on your ground clearance. Test the starter on the bench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T08:20:14.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30435" CreationDate="2016-06-06T11:15:35.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even Before we begin I would assert that you immedieatly address the issue , its extremely &lt;strong&gt;Dangerous&lt;/strong&gt; to drive a transmission that has the slippage issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Causes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Low Transmission Fluid:&lt;/strong&gt; While this cannot be 100% attributed to the issue , this can also be a factor for a high mileage vehicle, normally manuals dont need as much maintainence for upto like 50,000 miles but after that its advisory to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Broken Gear Linkage:&lt;/strong&gt; There are nylon linkages used in the gear leaver where its attached to the transmission, over time these things wear out causing the gear to slip into neutral automatically( I personally think this might be your issue , but get it checked with a mechanic nevertheless). The bushes look like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQmbQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQmbQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other causes which can cause the slipping like broken or worn out synchros which will definitely require you to open the unit and inspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said previously, unless you know what exactly to do , I would Highly advise you to take your car to a mechanic since there can be scenarios where you might be trying to overtake a vehicle and your 5th might slip and it can be disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T11:15:35.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T12:13:51.477" Score="3" ViewCount="2439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hero Passion Pro Motorcycle.  It does not get started when the choke is on.  It does start when the choke is turned off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine produces a disturbing noise and smoke goes out when the choke is on when it's been started for the first time. Once it is off then wont get start when choke is on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18855" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T16:36:32.353" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T16:36:32.353" Title="Hero Passion Pro - Choke Issues" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|carburetor|hero-honda|choke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31486" CreationDate="2016-06-06T12:31:48.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean that when the engine is cold, it requires the choke, but then if you stop and try to restart, then you have to turn off the choke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is by design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choke is a tool to allow a cold engine to run by enriching the fuel/air mix through restricting (or choking) the air supply - once the engine is warmed up, this is not needed any more. When you stop the engine, and try to restart again before it has cooled down, using the choke forces the wrong fuel/air mix so it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, using the choke on a warmed up engine just makes the engine run inefficiently (with lots of smoke) so there is something not quite tuned right on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T12:31:48.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31489" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:49:49.670" Score="4" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was refitting repaired door lock and accidentally the wire that is used to push down the lever on the actuator (?) fell inside the door. I can hear it rattling somewhere in the corner but I have no idea how to get it out. My car is Peugeot 607. I just didn't think this could happen since doors are hollow but apparently not?.. Is there someway I can get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastEditorUserId="1100" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T20:53:52.260" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T20:53:52.260" Title="I lost a door lock wire inside the door" Tags="|locks|door|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31488" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:57:00.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With difficulty ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the door card (interior trim) if it's not off already - this should reveal a number of holes in the inner skin of the door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a small mirror and a torch, try to work out where the wire has gone - it'll probably be in the most inconvenient place possible! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll then need to use something to try and grab it - I'd recommend a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/600mm-FLEXIBLE-CLAW-LIFTING/dp/B00439FN06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flexible claw&lt;/a&gt; as that should enable you to get some kind of grip on it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="15419" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T19:02:42.520" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T19:02:42.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31492" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:59:17.477" Score="3" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I hit a stump with my lawnmower and bent the crankshaft in my lawnmower.  I could only pull the bottom of the crankcase off partway, so I had to cut the crankshaft in half.  When I was doing that I accidentally scraped up the mating surfaces a bit, and of course the replacement paper gasket only works if the surfaces are perfectly smooth, and now it spits oil on either side when it runs.  My question is if I can use RTV sealant or some similar method to completely seal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18856" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T14:25:43.230" Title="RTV Sealant or similar for replacement of lawnmower crankcase gasket" Tags="|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31490" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:25:43.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use RTV sealant, it is not suitable and you will end up at best with a leaking engine, at worst if it gets the internals, another repair job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get proper gasket sealants that are oil and petrol resistant e.g &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=hematite%20gasket%20sealant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hermatite Gasket Sealant&lt;/a&gt;. Any decent mechanic will frown upon it's use, but for a lawn mower it should be fine. Just be sparing in it's use, if you have wodges of it oozing out from the joint, you have over-applied it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may still need the paper gasket in there too to maintain the correct clearances and use the gasket gunk to stop the scraped up bits leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T14:25:43.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31504" CreationDate="2016-06-06T14:42:04.400" Score="4" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some time now I've been getting a considerable amount of dark smoke from my tailpipe on cold starts which I believe to be an oil burning issue. I have an oil consumption test in progress, so far it seems to be about a quart every 1k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically in the morning the engine starts fine, but then immediately sounds like it is struggling to stay running. This is when the smoke starts coming out of the tailpipe. Usually the engine and smoke clear up after 10 seconds or so. This morning, however, the engine completely stalled during this ignition phase. This has never happened before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no engine light and everything runs fine otherwise. I have a clean MAF, clean throttle body, brand new spark plugs and cables, and several bottles of techron through the tank for the injectors within the past few months. Mileage is about 81k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:05:13.230" Title="08 Silverado 5.3 cold start exhaust smoke and engine stall" Tags="|engine|exhaust|silverado|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31497" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:31:52.020" Score="6" ViewCount="7100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent all weekend trying to fix why the lawnmower would sometimes not start/stay started. It needed maintenance anyway so I changed the spark plug, changed the oil and even rebuilt all the o-rings on the carberator (it leaked). It still wont start/stay started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I found the issue: the safety stop cable (attached to safety handle) has some play on it. If I give the exposed cable a pull while pulling on the pull cord it will always start. And when it starts to die if I tug on the exposed metal of the safety stop cable it will not stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure how to adjust it. The mower is a Troy-Bilt 675 ez start mower with a 190cc Briggs and stratton engine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VnGKyjN8GiE/maxresdefault.jpg&quot;&gt;this is someone elses image that looks 99% identical to mine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18860" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:01:25.080" Title="Lawn mower safety cable issues" Tags="|starting|lawnmower|briggs-stratton|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31496" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:01:25.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try unhooking the cable at the handle and then tie a loose knot in it.  This may make the cable too short.  In that case you could drill a hole in the safety handle bail a little further up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly certain it's not adjustable at either end.  The proper repair requires replacing the cable.  Believe it or not, sears.com has an incredible range of replacement parts, even for brands they do not sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always defeated those things permanently.  Yes, it may be unsafe so I'm not suggesting you do.   But I live in a wooded area, and refuse to have to restart my mower everytime I need to remove sticks from the mowing path,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:01:25.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31501" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:04:24.927" Score="8" ViewCount="15391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched this but no luck finding an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently did a disk brake rotor and pad replacement on a friends car. One of the pads would not fit in the allocated space in the caliper frame. The mounting hardware was seated properly (removed the rust that had formed), there was nothing else in the way, but the pad was just too long for the space in the caliper mounting frame. So, I ground off what was probably one thousandth of an inch, maybe two thousanths, bottom line, very, very little material came off. Just enough to take a tiny bit off, try the fit, repeat till it seated in the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this the correct procedure when this happens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is, should I have painted the now bare metal &quot;ear&quot; to prevent it from rusting? (I did use a high temperature silicone lubricant to keep it moving against the new stainless mounting hardware)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else I should have done to the ground down &quot;ear&quot; to insure a long serivce life?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The car was a 2004 Kia Optima, with 160k miles. Since the replacement the brakes are much improved. They are a floating caliper design, and the caliper guide pins were cleaned and lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T16:54:19.033" Title="Is grinding the &quot;ear&quot; of a disc brake pad ok to make it fit?" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:19:18.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about you're particular model, but on my John Deere riding mower, the fuel pump is driven by vaccuum and the pickup is just above the oil sump. If there is too much oil in the pan it covers the pickup and it does not pump fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous answer suggests that there is no fuel pump for your model, so a good place to start is to follow the steps in @Nick C answer, and if fuel is the issue, verify whether you have a fuel pump, or it's gravity fed. In any case the check for this problem is easy, just pull the dip stick, and if the oil level is correct, this isn't the problem. If it's high, you should drain some until its correct anyway. Excessive oil in a 4 stroke engine is a very bad idea as several posts in here have shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:19:18.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31498" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:01:57.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is acceptable practice.  Low quality brake pad backing plate edges can be very rough and the dimensions are often off spec. Higher quality pads usually have a better formed edge that fits correctly. As long as there are not rust flakes causing &quot;rust jacking&quot; under the pad end shims and the end shims are in good shape it is OK to file off the high spots on the pad tabs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pads must move freely in the channels but not have enough end play that they create a click sound on braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T18:01:57.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T19:04:59.000" Score="2" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It starts fine when the engine is cold, however, after driving for a while then stopping it, it won't start.  One day I drove it 25 km, stopped it, then tried to start it again, but when I applied the throttle the engine chokes and dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only guess is the fuel system somewhere - maybe the fuel pump?  Do you have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T03:28:06.310" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T03:28:06.310" Title="Car not starting after few kilometers of driving (Chevy Cruze 1.8L 2011)" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|fuel-system|fuel-pump|cruze|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T20:44:37.087" Score="4" ViewCount="7428" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car leaks when it rains.  Rain drips from the visor area. I suspect an area outside and above the windshield that is showing some rust.  I also suspect that my windshield was not replaced (long ago) properly - which resulted in the nicked area, which resulted in rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is bad enough that during a good rain, not only will the edge of the seats get damp, the floor mats get soaked, and worse, the car floor itself collects &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; of the rain that has leaked, and pools so the heel of my foot and the hem of my pants get wet when I'm driving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 19 years old ('97 Toyota RAV4), I am it's only owner, and even if I had the $$ to buy new (which I don't) I would rather reinvest in what some would consider a clunker, but I see as a car having served with honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I forget to mention that I live in Florida, where 6 months out of the year is considered &quot;the rainy season&quot;?!  There are some weeks it rains almost consistently every day, so the car never really gets a chance to dry out before the rain comes again.  You can imagine that this will sometimes result in an unpleasant damp smell in my car.  As rain is an unpredictable, though always probable and likely event (living in Florida), leaving the windows open so the car can air out is not often an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cleaning the car interior, I routinely take the mats out and scrub them, and will use upholstery foam cleaners to clean the car floor and seats - basically anywhere there is upholstery or carpeting - to mitigate the smell and resulting mildew ... but during the rainy season this is a never-ending battle that is unrealistic to keep up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a quick, easy (I know zero/zip/nada about car repair/diy) and - most important - inexpensive repair for this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18869" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T22:12:38.693" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T22:12:38.693" Title="Water leaking through visor area into interior" Tags="|toyota|car|leak|rust|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31493" CreationDate="2016-06-06T21:05:13.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil consumption in the LM7 engines is pretty common. The L33 in my '06 Silverado is around the same amount, maybe a little less. What you are talking about sounds more like a stuck/leaky injector. Oil smoke will usually last longer than 10 seconds, if that were the issue. And it would be distinctly blue, not black/dark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you could tell if this was the issue is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Ensure the fuel pressure is good (I don't remember off the top of my head, but believe it should be in the 53-60psi range). Then, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to sit overnight with the fuel gauge on it. If there's no leak, you should get a minimal amount of fuel pressure loss ... maybe 10-15psi, but if there is a leak, you'll get a much more dramatic drop or all of it for that matter. This doesn't mean it is &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; a fuel injector leak. It could also mean that the fuel pump anti-drain back isn't working right, but if the anti-drain back weren't working right, it wouldn't start up as easily as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:05:13.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31503" CreationDate="2016-06-06T21:10:30.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This solution applied to my '82 Oldsmobile back in the day.  I suspect you might have a similar situation.  The windshield on that car was actually glued onto the front of the frame with a black urethane glue, it also rests on a couple of metal tabs that keep the windshield from sliding down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they replaced my windshield the put too much glue on the bottom of the glass and on one side it did not rest on the little tab.  That was fine for a couple of years but in the heat the window slowly slid down in front of the tab until there was a little crack on the top where water could get in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right solution would have been to cut out the glass and reinstall it correctly.  That can be pricey since the glass can be broken in the process.  As a cheep college student I just bought a tube of that black urethane goo and filled in along the gap at the top of the glass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be pretty cheap, likely less than $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:10:30.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31507" CreationDate="2016-06-06T21:17:02.807" Score="8" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my daughter told me the tire pressure monitor (TPM) light had come on in our 2005 Toyota Corolla (USA model). We checked the tires and found that one was indeed a bit low, and we brought it up to pressure. The TPM light remained on, so I assumed there must be a defective sending unit, but when I picked up the car, the guy at the shop said there was nothing wrong, and that the TPM light just needed to be reset. (Our 2010 Toyota RAV4 doesn't behave this way.) Does anyone know the procedure for resetting the light after correcting the tire pressure problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18870" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:28:05.220" Title="Reset TPM system on 2005 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|corolla|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31506" CreationDate="2016-06-06T21:28:05.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure all tires are at the specified pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locate the tire pressure monitor reset button&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4VpI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4VpI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch the key to the off position, turn the key to the on position and hold the TPMS reset button until the light shuts off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:28:05.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16966" CreationDate="2016-06-06T22:00:15.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just returned from an 1100 mile round trip from Rochester NY to Dayton and back. Our 2013 Subaru outback limited (4 cylinder) towed an Aliner. Trailer weight without gear is 1525 lbs. There were 2 passengers (me and wife) and I estimate we carried approx. 500 lbs of camping stuff. Rochester to Dayton does not have any severe hills. Camper is equipped with electric brakes. Subaru performed very well. Running on level road at 70 mph, engine ran at 2100 rpm and the temp gauge never went above normal (non towing) value. Most driving was done in 80-85 deg. F weather. I plan to ask subaru reps. if I am doing some &quot;hidden&quot; damage to drivetrain as things seem to be going too good! Average fuel usage was 23.7 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18872" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T22:00:15.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30266" CreationDate="2016-06-07T00:20:06.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to verify spark and fuel injector operation. Use a scope and backprobe the signal wires for any cylinder. You should also look at the cam and crank signals for irregularities or drop outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a multimeter or noid light to test the injector signal. Don't use a test light on the signal driver circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the PCM may or may not fix your problem, don't throw away money unless you can verify the PCM is the problem. If you don't have access to a scope you may need to take the truck to a garage and pay some money for a diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:20:06.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30239" CreationDate="2016-06-07T01:35:01.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a quick check on the schematic and it appears that the two circuits are completely separated from each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noted that the fuel sender circuit number is 36 and the horn is 63. You might want to carefully review the schematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T01:35:01.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16159" CreationDate="2016-06-07T06:22:03.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Invert plugs and fill cavity with oven cleaner. Let soak overnight. Clean exposed areas with wite brush. Rinse with solvent and blow dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18879" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T06:22:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16966" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:08:19.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mazda3 is an odd case. Apparently the US specification says 'no towing', but the EU spec has these towing capacities for the same car:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braked trailer kg 900  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unbraked trailer kg 550  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is 1984 lbs braked and 1212 lbs unbraked, not too far off from the Outback, and about what I'd expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Outback weighs about 300 kg more than the Mazda3, the extra weight helps stability when towing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T08:08:19.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12494" CreationDate="2016-06-07T14:19:28.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up with the resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was right about the diagnosis.  The rubber hose joining the filler neck to the fuel tank was deteriorated and cracked.  The same was true of the vapor return hose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was wrong about the cost of repair.  I was charged about $375 in labor and $335 in parts, for a total of $810 (USD).  The main labor cost was for removing the fuel tank.  The parts were expensive (said my mechanic) because the hose is a custom shape and has to be obtained from the manufacturer; generic rubber hose is not suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safety: Undetermined.  The truck didn't catch fire, but that isn't really evidence of anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T14:19:28.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31519" CreationDate="2016-06-07T14:54:21.073" Score="4" ViewCount="4213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased tires in the size 205/55r16 for my 2005 Volkswagen Passat Sedan GLX 4-motion based on the sizing suggested by nearly every major tire seller online. Well, today I noticed that her current (old) tires are 225/45r17, upon noticing this I looked and the door sticker verifies this (the spare however is a different size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the new tires work on the old rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18888" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T15:07:31.303" Title="Will a 205/55r16 replace a 225/45r17 tire?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31518" CreationDate="2016-06-07T14:59:19.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 205/55/R16 tire is a 16 inch inner diameter tire intended for 16 inch wheels. If the current tires on your car are 225/45/R17 that means you have 17 inch wheels fitted and you cannot fit the new tires on smaller wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire websites cannot tell the size of wheels you are currently using, as the manufacturer usually lists at least a couple of different supported sizes of wheels for each car model and a few sizes of tires for each of the wheel sizes. The website probably has a database of fitting wheel/tire combinations for most popular cars, but it's up to you to check if the tires you are buying will fit the wheels you currently own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire size is supported, you'll need new wheels to use these tires. You can always check the owner's manual to know what fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T15:07:31.303" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T15:07:31.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31525" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:10:05.000" Score="4" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1965 full-size Buick with front and rear drum brakes which has been in storage for several years.  I never used the parking brake even when I used it as a daily driver so it's been engaged maybe twice since 1991.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've moved from a non-inspection state (Illinois) to an inspection state (Delaware) and intend to have the car shipped out and re-registered/titled in my new location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the guidelines on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dmv.de.gov/services/vehicle_services/other/ve_other_general.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delaware DMV Website&lt;/a&gt; my car is old enough that it is exempt from the emissions and fuel pressure tests but there is mention of a brake test.  When I have tested my newer vehicles (2005+) this has been as straightforward as stopping the car when/where the tech tells me to but given how much the testing seems to vary based on vehicle age the requirements in practice may be different.  I would hate to be asked to apply the parking brake and have it catch but not release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without implications from the inspection, it would be good to know that the parking brake does, in fact, work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I have some questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I look for before I even try applying the parking brake?  Are there parts I should lubricate, or indicators that I should pull the drums right away?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a good initial way to test the effectiveness of the parking brake other than putting the car in neutral and giving it a push?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible for the parking brake to engage and not release?  If this happens, what can I do to get it unstuck?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some experience wrenching on the car and generally enjoy it (I swapped the single master cylinder with a dual and replaced the brake lines and replaced the heater core) so I'd like to do the work myself if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18887" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:33:38.530" Title="The Parking Brake on my 1965 Buick hasn't been used in 20 years, what maintenance should be done before use?" Tags="|buick|parking-brake|emergency-brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:16:07.973" Score="15" ViewCount="16693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does stopping and starting a car in heavy traffic burn more fuel than simply coasting on a highway at 55 mph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T23:32:59.680" Title="Why does stopping and starting a car in heavy traffic burn more fuel?" Tags="|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:31:58.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your engine is always burning gas when the car is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're stationary, you are burning gas to keep your engine running, without actually moving the car, so you're actual miles per gallon (MPG) at that moment is 0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you begin to accelerate, you are using more gas than when the car was idling, but then you have to press the brakes, essentially wasting the extra gas you just used to get up to speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're up to speed and no longer accelerating on the highway, the engine is only using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-power-required-to-keep-Prius-rolling-at-60MPH-on-level-road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;20-40 horsepower&lt;/a&gt; to maintain that speed. When you're cruising at 60 mph you're covering mile a minute, so depending on the car, your relative fuel consumption is much higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph below displays the Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC - brake specific meaning the engine was mounted on a certain style of engine dyno, rather than in a car). The fuel consumption is measured in grams per kilowatt-hour (1 KWH = 1.34 horsepower). The maximum torque vs RPM (engine Revolutions Per Minute) is displayed at the top of the graph (black line w/ black dots). As you can see, least amount of fuel per KWH is used when THIS engine is running at 2-3k RPM, and outputting 80% of max torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, when cruising, you only need a fraction of your total horsepower. The engine rpm for most cars in top gear at highway speeds is usually 2500-3500 RPM, so even as your torque requirement goes down and you fall out of the optimum fuel efficiency range, when the value of the denominator (power needed to cruise at 60) decreases, as does the numerator (amount of fuel used). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqX2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqX2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T20:40:34.710" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:40:34.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-07T15:35:58.820" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think about what the car is doing in both cases you'll see why you burn more fuel when accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General theory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F = mA (Force is equal to mass times acceleration), and in this case the force is applied by the engine. The more force, the more fuel is burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acceleration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In stop and go traffic, you are making frequent stops, and accelerating from zero to some relativly low speed, like 30 MPH. Per the above equation, (F=mA) you must have a force in the direction you want to accelerate the mass of your car. But that's a net force. You have the force of the engine moving you forward, but you are being resisted by inertia, friction, and at some point even the air resists your attempt to accelerate. The engine must overcome all of these forces by applying a bigger one. More force is more gas burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Highway coasting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While coasting on the highway you are maintaining an acceleration of zero. So the net force applied is zero. So, you only have to match, not exceed like when accelerating, the forces of friction and aerodynamic drag. Less force, means less gas burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T15:35:58.820" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:32:49.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a defective fuel cap.  This is a problem with the LX288 / 277 the vent hole clogs and you get a vacuum lock situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace that cap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, less likely is sticking valves, which occur when the engine gets hot.  Again a known problem with the FH500V engine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18892" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:32:49.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31520" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:33:38.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.de.gov/services/driver_services/drivers_license/dr_lic_equipment.shtml&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Delaware DMV page, the parking brake must stop a vehicle in 54 feet from 20 mph. For reference, the foot brake has to stop the car in 20' from the same speed. It doesn't sound like you're registering the car as an antique/collector, but if you do, you only have to pass the inspection once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for checking the function of the brake, I think the best way to find out is to get the car situated in a garage, or somewhere you can jack it up if necessary, and apply the brake. To test it without having to move, simply put the car in gear and see if the brake holds it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake does not hold the car, jack up the rear of the vehicle, remove the wheels, and adjust the parking brake. There should be a small window in the drum through which you can access and tighten the cable. Do so until you cannot spin the drum, then back off slightly until you can. Slight rubbing will go away in time but is not desirable. A quick search for 'parking brake adjustment' should provide a few videos that will give you a general idea of what to look for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake does not release, you can try pulling and releasing the lever repeatedly, bouncing your weight on the stuck corner of the vehicle, putting the vehicle in drive/reverse, or taking the wheel off and hitting the drum with a rubber mallet. If the brake still will not release, you may have to manually loosen the cable as described earlier, and bust out the anti-seize/rust spray (I prefer PB Blaster) and trace the line from the lever to the drums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario, you'll need to replace the cable all-together, but it sounds like your combination of rarely using the brake, and generally taking care of this old beast shouldn't have worn the cable beyond the point of no return. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T16:33:38.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:42:11.750" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time you brake, the energy is wasted. Brakes convert mechanical energy of a moving car into heat via friction (they heat up). This is where the energy is ultimately &quot;lost&quot;. Then, when the traffic moves forward a bit, you of course need to accelerate - and this is where you actually use gas from your tank to put this energy into getting your car to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you coast at constant speed, the only big energy losses come from air resistance. This resistance depends on speed and shape of your car, so with moderate speed (like 55mph) and modern, aerodynamic car you actually lose less energy than from repeated braking in a traffic jam. Of course, if your car is less aerodynamic (eg. carries big baggage on the roof) or you drive it very fast, you will eventually reach a point when you'll burn more fuel coasting than in traffic jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I skipped energy losses in rubber tires, because they remain mostly the same. Also, if you can coast in 10 min but spend full hour in a jam, that's lots of idling - but idling is not as important as all that braking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also explains why vehicles with electric motors are much more efficient at such start-stop traffic - instead of regular (friction) braking they do &quot;regenerative braking&quot; instead and get some of the energy back into the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T17:53:10.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T17:53:10.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:39:41.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1510" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 Kia Sedona has a weird start and not start issue about every couple of weeks. It is currently doing it more often.  It also does this weird thing when I am trying to start it, it seems almost like it is seizing up.  As if it stops the turning of the starter.  OMG I have no idea how to say what it sounds like ahhhhh.  I just don't want to buy a new starter if it is something else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else have this problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is fully charged and the alternator is working so what could be the cause??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help ahead of time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18894" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T20:16:13.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:35:10.647" Title="Weird starting and not starting for my 2005 Kia Sedona" Tags="|starting|starter|kia|sedona|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1140" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:46:50.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the car you're considering, there may be one or more enthusiast forums which discuss that make and/or model.  From there you should be able to look through the topics and get a feel for common issues, or start a new thread which should draw out advice fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I owned a '97 Volvo 850 for many years and ultimately sold it due to the same A/C issue you experienced.  Using that car as an example, even a simple search for &quot;Volvo 850 problems&quot; brings up threads from six different Volvo-specific message boards as well as hits from Edmunds and some other aggregator sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts costs have been mentioned but one thing to be aware of is whether the specific model and body style is unusual, as that can impact availability and price.  My wife owned a 2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring -- a compact wagon variant with almost nothing in common with the rest of the Elantra family.  The result is that even typical items like the battery are more expensive and when we take it for service multiple shops have ordered the wrong parts the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try and gauge this, go to eBay and search for parts/assemblies for the year/make/model that one might need to replace: headlight, mirror, wheel, etc.  The results will include a lot of aftermarket/upgrade and knockoff/non-OEM parts but the number of hits and general price range will give you a feel for what you're up against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, take it all with a grain of salt based on your needs and use case.  I swapped my 850 for a Honda Accord and while it's been cheap to maintain it's also ridiculously boring and I would go back to the 850 if I could afford the repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18887" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T18:46:50.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29618" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:53:41.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start with the bad news - if it's the CD100 model without electric start then it's a no-go unless you replace the engine (I'm inferring this from your statement &quot;customize my old bike with a self start&quot;). You won't be able to retro fit a starter to it as the cases and internals will not be configured for one. However, if the engine does have electric start, read on. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At it's simplest, your circuit should be made to activate a low current relay that can itself be tapped into the feed to the starter relay (in parallel with the starter button wiring) so it can energise it and turn the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then need to consider safety aspects - has the bike got any safety interlocks in the starter wiring? Look for clutch switches (clutch must be pulled in to start the bike) and side stand switches (side stand must be up to put it in gear). These are there to prevent starting the bike in dangerous circumstances (in gear or about to ride off with the side stand down). Don't try and work around these, work with them and fit them if they are not already on the bike. You don't want to try and impress your friends by remote starting the bike when it is accidentally in gear and it goes tumbling off the stand onto the floor!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T18:53:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T19:49:39.447" Score="1" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;If hydrocarbons (HC) are nil and Carbon Monoxide (CO) is 0.33% and Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is 14% &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the HC show up as nil? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a problem with having no HC readings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T01:49:54.067" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:49:54.067" Title="Nil HydroCarbon in the exaust" Tags="|engine|exhaust|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:05:37.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to view this is to visualise throttle opening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're cruising, the pedal is held down to some position more than idle, but less than maximum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're taking off and accelerating, the pedal is pressed down further, which opens the butterfly valve allowing more fuel/air mixture into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence more fuel is used to accelerate than to cruise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yes I realise answer is fudging, modern cars, computers, injection etc - handwave and simply&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately, idling uses fuel for no progress, which is why some cars shut off their engine at a dead stop.  As a cyclist it sounds so strange at the green light, to hear three or four cars all turn over their engines at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:05:37.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29174" CreationDate="2016-06-07T20:33:22.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a regular clutch, the inner hub that drives the gearbox is a single casting. Clutch plate pressure is solely applied via the outer pressure plate and springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a slipper clutch, the inner hub is composed of two pieces that engage via dogs (the same way a bike gearbox/transmission works). The dogs have a flat driving face and a ramped face. Under normal driving conditions (engine driving the rear wheel) the two-piece hub acts like a normal clutch. However when you back the throttle off and you get back torque on the rear wheel, the slipper comes into play. This causes the ramped faces of the dogs to push the two pieces apart and reduce the pressure on the plates allowing some slippage and stopping any rear wheel lock-ups or hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture speaks a thousand words (courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/designcafe/en/about-design/technology/index.aspx?segment=About%20Design%20-%20Technology&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=442633&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yamaha&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gPo6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gPo6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side note, do not take any notice of the Wiki definition. It is a complete mish-mash of information and confuses terms between a slipper clutch as on road bikes and drag racing slider clutches that are sometimes also referred to as slipper clutches. They work in &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T20:33:22.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T21:02:23.163" Score="4" ViewCount="1605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering in what ways could an alternator partially fail such that it would create excess drag on the engine ( enough to cause some shaking / lugging ) but not make any immediately apparent noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T03:26:04.447" Title="What alternator failure modes create excess drag without making allot of noise?" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31542" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:36:14.110" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard of jeantaud mechanism of steering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does it accomplish the right steering everytime? aren't tyres slipping in any situation? I mean, is it the definitive solution to the Ackerman steering or just a good approximation? in case the jeantaud mechanism isn't, there exist a definitive solution to this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this solution work even if the vehicle has got suspension? I mean, if suspensions are present, do they create problems with this hypothetical steering? &#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17482" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:40:00.307" Title="Is Ackerman steering solved?" Tags="|suspension|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1140" CreationDate="2016-06-07T23:12:31.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Popularity of the manufacturer and your location will also play a large roll in the price and availability of parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those who frequent this site may know I own, adore, and profess the excellence of my 2006 6-speed Infinti G35 Sedan. Every day in my 45-60 minute commute to and from work in the Seattle area, I see at least 10 cars that share the same chassis, drivetrain, or other parts (exhaust, auxiliary pumps, interior, etc) as my car (Nissan 350z, 370z, Maxima, Murano, Quest; Infiniti G35 coupe, FX35, G37 to name a few). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to repair replace and upgrade my suspension, intake, exhaust, and interior for 'relatively' cheap because there are so many of these cars around. Last week I bought an entire OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, AKA stock) cat-back exhaust system with 30k miles off craigslist for $80. The same parts new cost over $500.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my second G35 a few months ago (after the first was totalled), I flew to Nebraska and drove it back, because the price in Nebraska was 30% cheaper (flight, gas, and lodging included) than the same car in the Seattle area. For the first 1400 miles of driving, I saw EXACTLY two G35s, and one 350z. Yes I was counting. The majority of the cars I saw were American SUVs, trucks, sedans, and a few Honda and Toyota SUV &amp;amp; sedans. Upon returning to the NorthWest, I saw 5 G35's in the last 50 miles of my journey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story, buy a G35 :P &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T23:12:31.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-07T23:46:09.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important aspect of the answer to this question is found in Newton's first law of motion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same reason that space shuttle use something like 90% of their fuel on take-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As cdunn went into, it's all about force (F). More fuel/s = more force/s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to understanding it is that little snippet &quot;&lt;em&gt;unless acted upon by an unbalanced force.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your example of a highway with ups and downs, gravity comes greatly into play. On the decline g becomes a positive force. To illustrate clearly I'll use extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say your decline is 90 degrees, or vertical. That means that g (10m/s^2) is added &lt;strong&gt;to&lt;/strong&gt; the power of your engine. This is why vehicles have intentional methods of engine breaking and drag in various parts - so you don't just blast down hills.&#xA;Conversely, when traveling back up this Gravity is now a negative force on your engine. So you either need to produce more force from the engine, or produce more force via inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extreme Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Say the following is true:&#xA;&#xA;    motor output (Mo)= 250 HP or ~ 19,020 kg-m/s^2&#xA;&#xA;    curb weight (cw)= ~1800 kg&#xA;&#xA;    g = 10m/s^2 • cw = ~18,000 kg-m/s^2&#xA;&#xA;    friction = 0&#xA;&#xA;    surface resistance = 0&#xA;&#xA;Using -- t=(v-v0)/a -- we get the following.&#xA;&#xA;In this case nothing is in play except&#xA;gravity and motor output. Which&#xA;means that in a dead fall you have &#xA;~37,020 m/s^2 for and in a vertical &#xA;incline only ~1,020 m/s^2. &#xA;&#xA;So on the decline it only takes &#xA;0.00075 seconds for the car to reach&#xA;100 km/h. &#xA;&#xA;Whereas on the incline, it takes &#xA;0.0272 seconds to reach the same &#xA;speed.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;While this may not look like much, you can see it's a huge difference.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True that attempting to maintain a constant speed where there are hills is not the most efficient (I cut how most cruise controls systems handle hills). But on flats it is. The trick with hills is to equalize your forces. Getting to a proper speed on a down hill will allow your inertia to carry your farther up hill without massive input from your motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But hills aside - you initial question is &quot;why does stopping and starting in traffic burn more fuel.&quot; The answer to that is simply because of inertia. But! There are additional actors as well. For example, sitting stopped. Your motor is burning fuel and you are not traveling. So your not really getting 0 MPG, but more like -x MPG because it brings the overall MPG of your trip or count down to eventual 0 or even a negative ratio (e.g. 15 Gal./1 Mile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variables like wind resistance, drag, inefficiencies and gravity don't even really come into play until there flowing traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T23:46:09.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31527" CreationDate="2016-06-07T23:54:06.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by checking ground terminals coming off your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this may not be the issue I can't tell you how many times I've found bad connection to be an issue with starters on my cars and for years it was something I consistently overlooked. If the connections are too loose or really corroded that can cause a huge resistance spike which will cut the amperage to the starter way down. That of course leads to insufficient cranking of the motor or sometimes even just a small click when it's just enough to push the starter into contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, just figured I'd throw that in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T23:54:06.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T23:54:48.603" Score="4" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's currently with me in the mountains where it gets very cold, is there any chance of me damaging it by starting it? I started it 3 days ago and let it run for like 15 mins, but haven't since. It's currently covered in frost. If you need more information in order to help me answer the question please just ask, I'm only just starting to learn about the whole science of it, so I don't know a whole lot. &#xA;SO GRATEFUL for any information I could get. Thanks heaps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18899" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T03:23:39.677" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T03:23:39.677" Title="I have a 2002 Mitsubishi L300 SWB Van - Can it get too cold to start it without damaging it?" Tags="|engine|mitsubishi|van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31538" CreationDate="2016-06-08T01:30:52.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How cold is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cold?  The outside temperature when you go to start it is key.  But in general, unless you are more than twenty or thirty degrees F below zero, I would say the answer is &quot;no damage&quot;... provided you have used an engine oil and an antifreeze mix that is appropriate for your climate.  Your owner's manual should contain the information you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery must be in top shape as well, not to prevent damage, but to achieve proper cranking speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:30:52.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31534" CreationDate="2016-06-08T01:40:00.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some reading, it appears Jeantaud's mechanism uses shorter lever arms to acheive a more accurate &lt;em&gt;effect&lt;/em&gt;.  However, both mechanisms (Ackerman and Jeantaud) are sensitive to a number of things, wheelbase, speed, and body roll from suspension travel - namely toe changes (and to a lesser extent camber changes).  Mechanically these mechanisms are quite the same, with some argument about which &quot;inventor&quot; had a better implementation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider the problem &quot;solved&quot; from a theory standpoint, but these mecahnisms are widely used and probably good enough for a practical manufacturing and a cost/benefit standpoint.  What's reasonable on a Ford Sierra is not what you find on a Ferrari or F1 car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:40:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31502" CreationDate="2016-06-08T01:53:45.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a clogged fuel filter, or a temperature sensor that has failed making the Air/Fuel Ratio too lean for restart on a &quot;hot&quot; engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T01:53:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T04:12:38.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer: fuel burn at cruising (at a steady 55 mph) is proportional to the friction (aerodynamic \ tire \ mechanical bearings).  High transient driving (stop-and-go with conventional friction braking) energy consumption is significantly higher than energy burn due to steady-state friction.  Hybrid electric braking is energy conservative and should be thought of as a special case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear and tear on the engine / tires / brakes are also pronounced in cars that are driven in stop-and-go roads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18905" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T04:12:38.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31605" CreationDate="2016-06-08T06:05:57.367" Score="2" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to clean my piston in a small ultrasonic cleaner (with distilled water). Do I need to remove the piston rings to do so, or can I leave them on and make sure it dries completely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I replace them, do I need to hone the cylinder? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston has small scratches on it (can feel them with a finger nail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motorcycle is a BMW R80GS Bike with 60,000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T20:21:51.470" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T00:14:48.823" Title="Should I remove the rings when cleaning a piston?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|bmw|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30127" CreationDate="2016-06-08T06:19:48.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your problem is the lanyard, you should be able to disconnect the wires from it to test. It looks like it is in parrallel to the stop switch and should function the same electrically as the stop switch. Though you mention it going to the ignition switch or do you just mean the panel? The voltage to the key switch and start button should be 12 and the voltage out should be 12 as long as they are simple switch with 2 connections on either(one in, one out).  --if that is the case you could simply jump a wire across the connections on each switch, in turn, to bypass the switch and confirm whether it is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:. It the schematic linked is correct, it doesn't look like the black wire from the lanyard should connect directly to the ignition switch.  Confirm whether your switch has only 2 connections like the one in the schematic. One should be power in and one signal out, which should connect 12v to the relay and to the start button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastEditorUserId="18839" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T06:30:48.487" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:30:48.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31527" CreationDate="2016-06-08T06:35:10.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would clean and tighten starter and battery connections. A load test of the starter would be the next thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:35:10.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31533" CreationDate="2016-06-08T06:40:35.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bearings inside could be going bad and cause some load,but normally there would be some squeaking or grinding sounds. There could be some mechanical load produced by a large electrical load on the alternator too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:40:35.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31546" CreationDate="2016-06-08T07:08:45.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I replace the rings every time a piston goes back in the cylinder. While I can't speak for motorbikes (*I know they get dismantled a lot more often than a typical car engine) I would assume like with most wear items, you'd want to remove it, then put new ones on after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T07:08:45.813" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T09:43:07.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any engine can not have 100% efficiency; there are always energy losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cruising on highway you generally use the top gear and many cars are tuned to have peak efficiency there. In that case your energy losses are due to aerodynamic drag, tire rolling and engine and transmission friction. Note that first two ways are proportional to squared veocity, transmission losses are proportional to velocity and engine friction is proportional to the actual RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stuck in traffic jam you usually go on first two gears only leading to lower drag but higher engine friction and the engine operates in wide range of RPMs. When you brake to stop, all the kinetic energy, you got from the fuel, is wasted; when you stay with engine on you waste the fuel just to keep the engine on. If you accelerate you burn more fuel to raise the kinetic energy, if you shift too early or too late you burn extra fuel just because the engine is out of its optimal RPM range. When starting from halt you have to slip the clutch for a while; another waste of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though you do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; brake to stop at all (wasting your kinetic energy), you do use engine braking, you do use start-stop, you shift at right times; you cannot reach the fuel economy when cruising &lt;em&gt;smart way&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17392" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T09:43:07.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T10:02:25.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To cut it very simple: acceleration costs energy. Braking does not win you any energy (in your average car at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, if scenario 1 involves accelerating and braking, and scenario 2 involves a steady cruise at constant speed, then scenario 1 will cost more energy (fuel), simply because you spend the fuel for acceleration. It's not the braking that is inherently bad, but having to brake is telling you that you could have avoided the acceleration in the first place and thus saved the acceleration fuel usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum: there is a scenario 3: accelerate to your target speed as quickly as possible in the appropriate gears, then disengage the clutch and roll with the motor at idle. This uses even less fuel than scenario 2 because the average motor will be more efficient at higher RPMs (up to a point, don't press the gas pedal all the way to the floor since modern motors will then pump additional fuel in to give you kind of an &quot;afterburner&quot; effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This needs some practice to get right, i.e. you have to accelerate up to a high enough speed that you get a meaningful amount of rolling time, while not breaking speed limits and not hindering other cars; also it does not really benefit you if you then still have to brake at the end of the roll. So, I'd not advise newbies to do that, but experienced drivers can get a few percent of fuel savings out of it. Google &quot;hypermiling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in general, try to brake with the motor instead of the brakes (if safety allows it), obviously, hence the motor will use 0 fuel (instead of the miniscule idle fuel) when you do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18909" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T10:02:25.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31561" CreationDate="2016-06-08T14:06:25.553" Score="7" ViewCount="2928" Body="&lt;p&gt;My situation can be described with a photo:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToH1B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ToH1B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my starter motor, which doesn't appear to be in a healthy condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is, can I avoid spending over $500 on a new one in any reasonable way? Getting a used one on ebay or any other online shopping place is not an option, as I need it fixed in one week max and getting an used item is slow and risky. Delivery is slow to Romania and I get the risk of getting a defective one, or one that will break down soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be rebuilt with commonly available components? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I adapt another starter from a different motorcycle model? This particular model is known to break down easily, so it would be great to adapt a more reliable model if it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technical details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motorcycle: Triumph Tiger 800 from 2011&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starter: Denso 428000-5540&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T19:32:38.667" Title="Can I avoid buying a ridiculously expensive replacement starter motor?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|triumph|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31558" CreationDate="2016-06-08T14:36:54.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are companies that can recondition these, at least here in the UK. I have had one of mine done before in a couple of days. I assume they must use common components due to the fast turn around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T14:36:54.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31558" CreationDate="2016-06-08T16:15:57.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture it looks as if your brushes are completely worn out. If there's no other fault, that is (theoretically) an easy and cheap fix. It appears however that getting brushes for this particular starter isn't as easy as it normally should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information have a look at this thread:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,11947.0.html&quot;&gt;http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,11947.0.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as this (in German), which is referenced in the previous one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tigerhome.de/index.php?/topic/28918-anlasserb%C3%BCrsten/&quot;&gt;http://www.tigerhome.de/index.php?/topic/28918-anlasserbürsten/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask a local automotive electrician/mechanic, with a bit of luck they'll be able to sort you out quickly and for a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T16:15:57.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T16:43:47.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason is that fossil fuel engines are tuned to run most efficiently around 50-60mph, so any other speed will not deliver as much torque for the fuel being burned - that's why cruising speed is where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, which I will focus on, is that regardless of what speed you travel at, every time you brake, you waste energy. Here's what it looks like if you accelerate and then take your foot off the accelerator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DzKMy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DzKMy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Coasting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what it looks like if you hit the brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdgB4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdgB4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Braking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JSJh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JSJh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison between coasting and braking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus any time you brake, you haven't gone as far as you could've - you've spent fuel up front in accelerating that could've taken you further. You now have to spend energy again to cover that distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what that looks like in traffic - notice the accumulation of wasted energy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgVsu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OgVsu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Multiple braking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verses the waste if you just brake once at the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VC7w4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VC7w4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Brake once&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, this is one problem hybrid cars address: when you hit the brakes, they use induction to recharge the battery, and there's less waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11335" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T16:43:47.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31569" CreationDate="2016-06-08T17:54:22.360" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just purchased a 90s ford van, have some issue with the drivers side window ( wont go down ), actually, it will go down if you help it along. Former owner said that the passenger side window had similar problem and he fixed it, mentioned something about the &quot;track&quot; or &quot;gear&quot; he also said it's a common issue on 90s ford vans with power windows. Has anyone else had this issue? Any idea what this part is called? I tried google already but could not find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15494" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T20:39:40.750" Title="What is the part on older van power windows that typically fails and how do I replace it" Tags="|ford|power-windows|van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:15:08.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would argue driving in stop and go traffic uses &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; fuel than driving at freeway speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following scenario using typical highway and stop-and-go speeds, and realistic MPG at those speeds.  You can see the car burns fuel at a quicker rate on the highway than in stop-and-go traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSNlY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSNlY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T18:15:08.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31588" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:27:06.767" Score="8" ViewCount="42775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed today's trucks have this 3-4&quot; plastic guard that runs along the bottom of the front bumper.  It strikes me as something that would hinder ground clearance or otherwise brush into things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What purpose do these serve?  Why have they gotten so much bigger recently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see how pronounced it is in the following trucks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/le38j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/le38j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2015 Chevy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoM5u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoM5u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2016 Ford&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on these older trucks it is less noticeable, or seemingly even a natural extension of the bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hka3C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hka3C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1997 Chevy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALG7O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALG7O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1996 Ford&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T19:09:13.047" Title="Why do trucks have a plastic flap under the front bumper?" Tags="|truck|bumper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31576" CreationDate="2016-06-08T19:23:52.357" Score="4" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1994 Suzuki Swift Sedan 1.3L  with 280,0000 miles has been running cold for a while now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't get my self warm with the heater in the mornings when there is frost. It surges climbing up a mountain. The most annoying thing is that the indicator for the temperature needle will go up and down as the car accelerates and decelerates from middle to low in steps. I thought the old thermostat would be stuck open but it was not. I am unsure if there is some small problem that is creating this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a solution to this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=46446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to install and remove the thermostat from the chilton book&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pic of old thermostat&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7rtv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7rtv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is after getting answer. So found the sensor near/at thrermostat housing. one wire comes of it. grounded the sensor to the chasis with alligotor clips. Flip the key swittch on/off and it did climb the temp coolang gauge to hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;actually after just messing with the connection it started to work alone. It was just corroded! :) the outside sensor's  connnection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15954" LastEditorUserId="15954" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T17:02:45.553" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T17:02:45.553" Title="Suzuki Swift running cold - replaced thermostat and the issue persists" Tags="|suzuki|temperature|thermostat|surging|swift|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-08T19:53:10.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heat blend door actuator burned out.  I bought a new one. I installed it but the blend door only moved a fraction of what it is supposed to so I disconnect the actuator to not burn it.  My question is;  It seems that it might be something that is preventing the blend door from working properly but I don't know what it could be.  I am suspecting that the door can either be damaged or there is a foreign object that is preventing it from moving properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of you how to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18920" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:55:46.553" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T00:47:50.513" Title="2009 Ford Ranger heater Blend Door" Tags="|ford|ac|hvac|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31563" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:39:40.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple common parts&#xA;Switches - supplies power to the motor&#xA;Regulator - gears and tracks&#xA;motor (or crank) - moves the regulator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can take the door panel off and grease the channels up a bit and it will help.  I will use WD-40, silicon spray, white lithium grease, garage door lube, etc.  and it has helped with some of my windows that were slow/needed help.  This may be covering up an issue of the motor going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T20:39:40.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31671" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:52:42.580" Score="9" ViewCount="308599" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I fixed up some rust spots on stone kicks on my hood, and ended up repainting my whole hood to cover them up after grinding/puttying/priming.  I got custom matching spray paint made and used that to paint to hood, and then covered it with two coats of clear coat (I used two since the first coat wasn't glossy and thought maybe the second would be).  The guy at the auto store told me to use the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPSKK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPSKK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it was all done, it looked like a matte finish rather than the glossy coat on the rest of my car.  Since the can said &quot;high gloss finish&quot;, you'd expect it to be glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got another can from the same company that says &quot;Acrylic Enamel&quot; instead of &quot;Automotive Paint&quot;, since that's what the person at a different auto store said to get (she said to just sand it a bit and spray the enamel right on top).  It also says &quot;high gloss&quot; on it. I've become a bit skeptical of the advice of auto store people, so before I spray that on top of the previous coat, I just wanted to check with the friendly folks on the internet to see if this will actually fix my problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are two pictures of what my hood looks like now, compared to the rest of the car.  You can see that the reflective gloss is absent on the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjIBy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjIBy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIGPA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIGPA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here's a photo of the new stuff I want to use:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDuVC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDuVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15404" LastEditorUserId="15404" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T19:48:30.270" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T16:51:38.290" Title="Why did my clear coat turn out matte instead of glossy, and how can I fix it?" Tags="|paint|body|body-work|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31572" CreationDate="2016-06-08T20:54:45.663" Score="14" ViewCount="6452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question is pretty well summarized in the title. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we were to order gears in terms of power provided, where would reverse fall between gears 1-5 on a manual transmission vehicle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it vary by vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18922" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T23:54:00.550" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:23:25.753" Title="Is reverse gear in a manual transmission equivalent to any other gear?" Tags="|shifting|gears|manual-transmission|gear-ratio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31571" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:06:25.220" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reverse is pretty equivalent to first gear, for a ratio of around 3.2ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were any lower, it would be difficult to get started from a stop since the torque just won't be there. If you've ever driven a stick-shift, try starting from a stop in 2nd or 3rd gear and you'll see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - ratios for my manual 5-speed 2007 Mazda6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st: 3.307&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd: 1.842&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd: 1.233&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4th: 0.914&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5th: 0.717&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse: 3.166&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear ratios vary somewhat widely from vehicle to vehicle, especially between vehicles with different numbers of speeds, but the reverse gear is always going to be pretty close to 1st for the reasons mentioned above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12612" LastEditorUserId="12612" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:23:25.753" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:23:25.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31596" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:24:52.010" Score="14" ViewCount="4675" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to remove a rotor from my Suzuki DL 1000  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXvwL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXvwL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding that some of the hex bolts are stripped. Attempting to use SpeedOut does not appear to be producing the desired result. Any tips on what I might be doing wrong?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iu9DQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iu9DQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stripped hex bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using the rough edge to drill forward and the smooth edge to drill in reverse. That bolt just stares back in defiance. I was able to remove two of the bolts using a hex socket head and a torque socket wrench. I also tried an air impact wrench without success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the suggestions were useful.I tried everything and eventually pulled the rotor off the crank and found a nearby shop to put it in the vise bench. The guy then went through each of the suggestions (except for the welding, we got the bolts free). The last bolt only came out after using an impact chisel to inch it CCW. I've up-voted the suggestions and picked the answer that helped me the most. Just wanted to say thanks to all the posters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastEditorUserId="4124" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T01:35:29.197" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T01:35:29.197" Title="How to Remove Stripped Hex Bolts" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|stuck-bolt|dl1000|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:40:45.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy recommends using Irwin Easy Outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/hex-head-multi-spline-screw-extractors-532-series-plastic-case-sets&quot;&gt;these to remove from inside the hex&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/9-pc-metric-bolt-extractor-set&quot;&gt;these to remove from the outside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impact drivers are always recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't do it, vise grips could, but could also cause more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also getting some penetrating lube on them will help if you haven't already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T21:40:45.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30429" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:45:03.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only issue I found is the Oil Pressure switch must be changed for an adjustable one of around 30-50psi as a normal 5psi will not allow proper starting when engine is warm.&#xA;I used the ground from the oil pressure switch for a relay to operate the starter through the push button.&#xA;The light on the start button comes on once the key is turned to on. Once you press the start button and the engine fires, then the light in the start button goes out and there is no chance of accidentally engaging the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18834" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T21:45:03.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31566" CreationDate="2016-06-08T22:48:42.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heater core may be plugged, if fluid is full and there aren't any leaks. Check this when the engine is hot, if one hose is cold or warm and the other is hot the heater core is plugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temp gauge fluctuations may be an electrical issue or there's air in the system. If you backprobe the temperature sensor have someone rev the engine and look for fluctuations in voltage. You should also do this at the cluster to confirm wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the surging going up a mountain, it may be a bad BARO/MAP sensor. Just idle speculation as you'd have to look at voltages/scantool data to confirm this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T22:48:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:15:04.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the picture, but if the bolt heads are accessable, you could grab them with a good set of vise grips and get them loose.  Easy outs may be tough his situation because the hole in the head of the bolts not deep enough to allow easy outs to get a good bite into the bolt.  It may be easiest to drill a bit deeper with a slightly larger drill bit until the head comes off of the bolt.  Then pull the rotor off and spin out the bolt remnants with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T23:15:04.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:27:04.280" Score="4" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any alternatives for scoping the primary coil on a COP system other than using a low amp probe? I'm guessing backprobing doesn't work since the ignition control module is built into the coil and it receives a digital signal. Am I stuck looking at secondary or current ramp on the primary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T03:26:48.553" Title="Coil On Plug, Testing The Primary Coil" Tags="|diagnostics|ignition-coil|coil-on-plug|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31521" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:32:59.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think we can simply refer to Newton's first law of motion in Physics to answer this question in the most simplest way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Newton's First Law of Motion: I. Every object in a state of uniform motion tends to remain in that state of motion unless an external force is applied to it. This we recognize as essentially Galileo's concept of inertia, and this is often termed simply the &quot;Law of Inertia&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we consider how this applies to a car, a car coasting along a flat surface will continue at the same speed unless some force acts upon it. (Ignoring drag and friction of rolling along the road for this example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a stationary vehicle, you need to burn fuel to create the force that acts upon the car and its components (engine components, driveshaft, road wheels and the like) to speed their rotation up and accelerate the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the brakes applies a strong frictional force on the car, converting the inertia (kinetic energy) of the car into heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car that is stopping and starting, you are burning more fuel because you lose kinetic energy stopping as waste heat, and then have to spend energy from fuel to increase the inertia of the vehicle and its components again when you accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore a car that is stopping and starting uses more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T23:32:59.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31570" CreationDate="2016-06-08T23:51:00.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The likely cause is that the paint was applied too thin per coat or the nozzle was too far away. A coat thick enough to get a glossy sheen is seen but not too thick that runs develop is the proper technique. Practice on a similar surface is suggested. To fix it, sand the surface back to smooth with 600 grit sandpaper and then re-spray with three coats about 15 minutes apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T23:51:00.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T00:33:50.790" Score="2" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will an exhaust baffle have any bad effects on a 2 stroke engine if it's used all of the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18929" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:35:53.160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:35:53.160" Title="Is an exhaust mute bad for 2 stroke engines?" Tags="|engine|exhaust|two-stroke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-06-09T23:09:50.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T01:03:53.493" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car seems to wobble when I accelerate and continues at slow speeds. It seems to go away at greater speeds. I have also noticed that it veers right when I let the steering wheel go. Wobbling is not that bad, but I know my car well. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bernie!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18932" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:03:53.493" Title="2007 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition" Tags="|vibration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31578" CreationDate="2016-06-09T03:26:48.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the General Technologies TA500.  This tool is quite inexpensive (for its incredible capabilities) and very flexible.  Perhaps not for the DIY set, but there's no probing involved and it allows you to do coil-to-coil comparisons in seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gtc.ca/Products/TA500.html&quot;&gt;TA500&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T03:26:48.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T03:33:59.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut a small slot in one edge of the periphery (muffler abrasive whizzer tool), and hammer a chisel in that slot to move the socket head capscrew in the loosening (CCW) direction.  You needed to replace it anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you CANNOT use too much PB blaster, Kroil, or whatever your favorite liquid penetrating oil is.  Rap the head lightly with a hammer a few million times to set up vibrations that allow the oil to get in deeper.  More oil, more rapping, more oil.  Patience will have its own reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Be sure to wear safety glasses during all phases.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T21:55:16.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T21:55:16.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31567" CreationDate="2016-06-09T03:50:11.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a classic Ford problem.  I doubt it's an &lt;em&gt;object&lt;/em&gt;, but perhaps dirt, leaves, or deteriorating foam surround door seals.  Try and twist the fluted knob with the actuator off.  If the blend door resists, you are going to have to isolate the restriction in travel.  People have soaked the area with WD-40 or similar with some success, but I don't recommend that as it just attracts more grit later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T03:50:11.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31565" CreationDate="2016-06-09T04:56:43.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @MooseLucifer said in the comment, these deflector strips are generally there for air deflection. They do two things - one, they change the air pressure under the car helping stability at speed, and two, they (sometimes) help divert airflow up to the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, you always end up leaving it somewhere in the woods by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T04:56:43.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31595" CreationDate="2016-06-09T05:13:39.897" Score="1" ViewCount="3841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have trouble code information as below for &lt;strong&gt;B00D1 OBD Trouble Code&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;which use to detect &lt;strong&gt;Passenger Seatbelt Indication&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am referring below links to get trouble code information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtcsearch.com/B00D1/Generic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dtcsearch.com/B00D1/Generic/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obd-codes.com/b00d1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.obd-codes.com/b00d1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://upkeep.us/OBDII/OBD2/Honda/piart.php?art=2607&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://upkeep.us/OBDII/OBD2/Honda/piart.php?art=2607&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any one help to how to detect &lt;strong&gt;Passenger Seatbelt Indication&lt;/strong&gt; using obd2. Any thoughts on how to achieve this and is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16185" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T11:34:56.310" Title="How to detect Passenger Seatbelt Indicator using OBD2" Tags="|obd-ii|elm-327|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31565" CreationDate="2016-06-09T06:09:37.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more air allowed under a vehicle the greater affect this air will have on fuel economy. The lowered front air deflector will reduce the amount of air and thereby improve fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large over the road trucks have several new air types added in recent years for the same reason. The most noticeable has been the long skirts under the trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T06:09:37.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T09:31:44.533" Score="3" ViewCount="3548" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the recommended interval for the oil change in the CVT transmission for Mazda 2 2007, Chassis DE3FS &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I'm asking this questions is I don't have the user manual and local dealerships are not willing to help as my car is Japanise import and Mazda 2 for the local market (New Zealand) comes with 'normal' AT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18937" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T22:45:23.453" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T22:45:23.453" Title="How often should I change oil in the CVT transmission" Tags="|mazda|cvt-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9569" CreationDate="2016-06-09T09:50:59.773" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you need to change your engine seat, I had same issue with my 1999 Rav4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18938" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T09:50:59.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T10:23:54.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use my mig welder to weld a steel rod onto the head.  You could weld a T shape on the end of the rod for something to hold.  After removing each one, just cut the bolt off the end and repeat. The heat usually helps to free the bolt too.  Make sure you protect anything nearby that could be damaged by sparks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T11:08:47.583" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T11:08:47.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31589" CreationDate="2016-06-09T11:34:56.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OBD II only guarantees communication and specific PID availability with the engine computer. For effect I repeat, ONLY the engine computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The passenger seat belt indicator would be either part of the body control system or the restraint/airbag system. These are manufacturer specific and will change depending on the make, model and year of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no single PID or code that covers every car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T11:34:56.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T11:42:54.577" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat is the key to loosen the bolts off - I use a butane torch, if you have access to oxy torch, they can be carefully used too. Keep it local to the bolt as it can affect the rotor magnets which may or may not be an issue for you if you are replacing the actual rotor). Then for the knackered bolt heads, find a sacrificial Torx bit or the right size to jam in and hammer it in to the where the hex socket used to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you just need an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html&quot;&gt;Impact screwdriver&lt;/a&gt; and whack away until the bolt frees off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question implies that you are still in the process of removing the rotor from the bike, I can see the rotor removal tool is still wound into the centre. If you are finding it is stuck on the crank, you need wind the bolt in tight, hit the end of the bolt with a hammer to shock it, wind it in a bit more, hit it again, repeat until it goes. It's a tapered fit onto the end of the crank and will pop off suddenly when it's ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The six hex bolts are not required to be removed to get the rotor assembly off the crank, they just affix the rotor to the starter gear. I'm just mentioning this as it's not clear as to the purpose of you removing the rotor at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T11:42:54.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:20:47.643" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great success in the past selecting a 12 sided socket that almost just say fits over the head of these types of bolts.  Hammer it on so it's fully covering the head and sitting squarely then attach a ratchet and turn it out.  This method has never once failed me.  You do have to select an old socket however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:20:47.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31583" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:40:54.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exhaust system. If it is a road bike with an exhaust system designed for the road, you need to keep the silencer/muffler/mute on it for optimum performance. Only a full race system, designed to run without a silencer (pretty rare these days with all the noise restrictions even on races) might suffer by having a silencer attached, but that would all depend on the overall design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the silencer off will affect performance, usually for the worse, as the exhaust will have been made to allow for the resistance to gas flow that the silencer gives. More noise does not necessarily mean better performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:40:54.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31602" CreationDate="2016-06-09T14:46:20.057" Score="5" ViewCount="7095" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to get some mid range and torque gains, I've decided to replace my rear sprocket with a bigger one. I asked a friend of mine (experienced motorcyclist, been riding for decades) and he said I will have to get the bike dyno tuned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this true? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And if so what needs to be tuned?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I need to change my chain as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my bike: MV Agusta Brutale 675 ,MY: 2014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T16:03:12.513" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:33:27.017" Title="Increasing rear sprocket size for torque gains, will a dyno tune be required?" Tags="|motorcycle|torque|sprocket|mv-agusta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31592" CreationDate="2016-06-09T14:47:33.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering how finicky CVT's can be, and how expensive they are to replaced, I would follow the manufacturer recommended service intervals and fluid types. From what I've read, most manufacturers recommend changing CVT fluid every 30k miles or 24 months. You should double check with your owners manual or dealership service department for the correct fluid type and service interval. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend having it done at an independent mechanic who is experience with CVT transmissions, rather than the dealership (expensive) or a quick-lube type shop (incompetent, in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of time I have spent searching for this information would be described by the guy that signs by paychecks as &quot;clear out your desk, and don't bother coming in on Monday.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; information by searching for the Mazda Demio, which is the 2's JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) model name. Even then, I was only able to find the recommended fluid is &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/cvt_fluid.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CVTF 3320&lt;/a&gt;, which is produced my multiple companies (Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that the dealership is not willing to help, I would call the Mazda corporate office, who should be able to look it up, or connect you with someone who will be able to answer your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T23:13:05.900" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:13:05.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31600" CreationDate="2016-06-09T15:38:38.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing your rear sprocket won't give you more mid range or change the engine power curve in any way. It will alter the torque at the rear wheel at &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; RPMs. The bike should accelerate faster through the gears but you will also loose out on top speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You don't need to get dyno tuned just for changing a sprocket&lt;/strong&gt;. He may however have been implying that to get proper midrange gains, you need some tuning done, altering the fuel map to try up pump up the midrange. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mvagusta.com/en-gb/motorcycles/brutale-675/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MV website&lt;/a&gt;, the Brutale has 4 engine maps already and one spare for your own customisation. This would probably be your best bet for increasing your midrange torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible you could keep the same chain on. If it is relatively new and unworn and you only alter 1-2 teeth on the rear and still have enough adjustment left on the swingarm. Otherwise, you will need a new chain with a couple of extra links. If the chain is worn, it's best to replace it as it will accelerate wear of the new sprocket. Might be worth replacing the front sprocket too in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastEditorUserId="9351" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T08:57:15.210" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T08:57:15.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:06:19.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy outs?  No... get reverse drill bits and proper extractors like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000EEX644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18949" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T14:48:12.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T14:48:12.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31573" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:20:26.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure by looking at the pictures if you could reach far enough in, but can't you just get a pair of vise grips / locking pliers on the heads? If you tighten it down really well, you should be able to get enough grip to rotate the bolts by the looks of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13363" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T16:20:26.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31546" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:32:07.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nikasil&lt;/a&gt; coating on your cylinder walls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't just bore, hone and assemble.  You have to have a nikasil coating applied to the cylinder walls before reassembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_R80G/S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Your model year of BMW&lt;/a&gt; has the nikasil coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not simply hone your cylinders, attempt to the coating, it may be required to put then next overbore size of piston in.  If you did require an overbore the piston sizes come in .25mm step increases in bore diameter.  You would also, of course, get new rings with the pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have two paths&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the piston and rings.  Take the rings off when you do this.  Make sure they go back into the same landing of the same piston upon reassembly, the rings wear into the piston and match.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the next size overbore piston and rings and send out your cylinders and new pistons for the machine work.  If you take it to an independent shop they will have a relationship with a firm that does the coating and will usually be cheaper than going to the dealer.  From there, reassemble and smile.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your decision by measuring the bore of your cylinder at the top, middle and bottom of the piston stroke.  If the diameter exceeds service limits in any of the locations then that can drive your decision to bore and rebuild or not.  Hope this helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagram of Components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the lower image, the rings go in particular grooves on the piston.  These grooves are called landings.  You will want to ensure that you put the ring in the landing it came from.  All of the components are wore into one another and as a result have matching wear patterns.  Placing the rings on the incorrect ring or landing could accelerate the wear of the particular component and lead to an early failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftKPq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftKPq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T00:14:48.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T00:14:48.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31600" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:39:06.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you do not need to remap your ECU&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't have anything to do with your air fuel ration and ignition timing.  You are simply changing the gear ratio for your final drive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the sprocket larger will make all of your gears a bit shorter and reduce your top end speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically do this on most of my motorcycles as it makes for better city driving.  As well, a couple of my bikes have a first gear that is over 80mph at redline.  It will make your bike feel a bit more responsive and help you with acceleration a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always change chain and sprockets in pairs, they wear in together even if you cannot visually perceive it.  If you change out just your rear sprocket on a chain with a thousand plus miles on it, you can expect to wear your chain and sprockets at a very accelerated rate.  If you change everything together you will get good wear and life out of the overall set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="12030" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:33:27.017" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:33:27.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31636" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:19:03.263" Score="5" ViewCount="25035" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference I'm working on a 1986 Corvette at about 5,000 feet above sea level (I'm in Colorado). The outside temperature is about 80 degrees, and humidity is relatively low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old R12 system had supposedly sprung a leak and the system had emptied, so I decided to convert it over to R-134. I flushed the evaporator, condenser, and all of the hoses separately, and installed a new compressor and orifice tube that came with the conversion kit I ordered. I also replaced a couple of the O-rings that were warped on the hoses. I now have everything hooked back up with the new R-134 valves on and a new accumulator in place, and am in the process of pulling a vacuum on the system before I recharge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vacuum only gets down to about -21 in/Hg, and won't go any further even though I let it run for at least 2 hours. The thing is, when I close the valves on the gauge the vacuum will hold in the system at that point when I let it sit for an hour and a half, which leads me to believe there aren't any major leaks in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some possible reasons the vacuum wouldn't pull close to -30 in/HG like it should, and is absolutely necessary the vacuum gets this low to remove all the moisture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18952" LastActivityDate="2021-07-01T20:06:42.537" Title="Cannot pull a &quot;deep&quot; vacuum on AC system" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:30:30.140" Score="1" ViewCount="2741" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car in question is a 2012 VW Polo. I had last driven it 4 days earlier on country A-roads for about 75 miles there and 75 miles back. Then today after I left the house and had driven about 100m on the lane at about 20-25mph, I suddenly started hearing a high-pitched scraping noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got out and determined there was nothing hanging off the bottom, and nothing I could see in the wheels. The scraping sounded very similar to the noise in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsS0ksJ6bvA&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;noredirect=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove less than 100m more and the noise disappeared, then came back after another ~100m when I got to the end of the lane. As I joined the slightly faster main road, the noise disappeared again, this time for the whole of my 12 mile round trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise only occurred when the car was moving, and did not intensify when I braked. I couldn't tell which wheel it was coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it might be due to a stone that got temporarily lodged somewhere, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HR8UbHpBfmU?t=58s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this YouTube video explains&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16217" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T19:49:16.283" Title="Temporary scraping noise coming from wheels" Tags="|noise|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:45:42.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider before you go too deeply into this resurection effort. You can buy replacements on eBay for very little money (I got mine for $20 US) and the steps to marry it to your car are available online. The Toyota dealer wanted $80 just to program it. There are options to just replace it that are cheap enough that it's not worth the effort to resurrect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T17:45:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31608" CreationDate="2016-06-09T18:01:46.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a small leak at a hose fitting or something similar.  I think the easiest way to check would be to fill with nitrogen and check for leaks with soapy water sprayed on all joints and connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T18:01:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T18:08:52.537" Score="7" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to source a new part for my cost but have no idea what it's called. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbkJ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbkJ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell what the broken part is. &#xA;It is a BMW series 1 57 plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend thinks it is an exhaust bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15894" LastEditorUserId="15894" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T18:17:38.307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T22:12:38.380" Title="What is this part?" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31620" CreationDate="2016-06-09T18:47:36.713" Score="6" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and then when I get home after a long day, I pull into my driveway and while the car is stopped (foot on the brake), I turn the vehicle off without putting the vehicle in &quot;Park&quot;. Car is still in &quot;Drive&quot; or &quot;Reverse&quot; when the vehicle is turned off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the negative effects (or are there any?) from shutting off a vehicle while it is in &quot;Drive&quot; or &quot;Reverse&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle is 2005 Nissan Altima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18953" LastEditorUserId="18953" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T16:36:09.437" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T16:36:09.437" Title="Effects of shutting off Nissan altima (or any car) while in drive" Tags="|electrical|transmission|nissan|ignition|key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30444" CreationDate="2016-06-09T18:51:24.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something similar happen in a 2000 Saturn LS2 (or L200) and it was a problem with the brakes and struts. Certainly a General Motors problem and not the first time I have heard of this. If the car is in the USA, check the VIN number with safercar.gov to see if its in a recall, or find an independent mechanic too check it over. I hope it helps. I am not a mechanic, but its a GM thing maybe. Check all of the fluids too. Have them check rotors and calipers too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18954" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T18:51:24.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30444" CreationDate="2016-06-09T19:42:49.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like a master cylinder, but hard to say with total certainty. Honestly though, it's worth it to swap you MC rather than getting in a wreck. The part is less than $100 (in my area). Just my 2 cents. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T19:42:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31615" CreationDate="2016-06-09T19:46:30.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position before attempting to start the engine so that the park lock will engage during engine start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T19:46:30.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31609" CreationDate="2016-06-09T19:49:16.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me like something is scraping or rubbing on the brake disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any chance the emergency brake is slightly engaged? I would suggest jacking the wheels of the ground and spinning them to see if you can pinpoint the sound. It may be something stuck next to the brake pad (which wouldn't necessarily get louder when the brakes are applied), or it could be a sticky brake pad that is near the end of its life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0054IQB8S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;infrared digital thermometer&lt;/a&gt;, you could go for a  drive and wait for the sound to occur for a few minutes, then get out and check the temperatures of the brake discs. If one of the discs is significantly hotter than the rest, then you likely have a sticking brake pad on that wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T19:49:16.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31613" CreationDate="2016-06-09T22:12:38.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd need &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; details to confirm, but this should put you on the right track:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Stopper, rear&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This genuine part fits your 2007 BMW 1 Series (E82,E88) 135i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock Code  33316794866 ; 33316763411&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer    BMW&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Categories  Suspension - Rear &gt; Rear axle with suspension&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Assemblies  Rear axle carrier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=258073&amp;amp;ukey_make=972&amp;amp;ukey_model=13423&amp;amp;modelYear=2007&amp;amp;ukey_category=17342&quot;&gt;BMW of South Atlanta Parts 2007 E82,E88&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;    &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really curious how the ear got broken off that...  did you attempt the Rubicon?  8-&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T22:12:38.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T22:19:54.550" Score="4" ViewCount="2613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new solenoid in and went to start the motor. The starter ran continuously with the key off. I overrode the solenoid and tried hooking the ground to the engine, and I touching the positive cable to the positive terminal cable to the start, and it acted like it was reverse polarity, with no batteries hooked up, or even in the vehicle. It arced really bad. If batteries are in the vehicle and I go to hook cables, it arcs really bad. I double-checked to make sure they weren't backwards, which they were not. What could be causing my arcing problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18959" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T23:06:56.057" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T08:08:09.433" Title="What is causing my starter to arc?" Tags="|engine|battery|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30444" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:45:57.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was driving this car around yesterday quite a bit with no problems,&#xA;  when I stopped to go into a store for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to try to reproduce it, you could try doing that again. but I would suggest doing it in a safe place, like driving around a parking lot for a whiiilee....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I drove around the corner to where I was going with the e-brake, and&#xA;  parked it. The car sat for maybe a half an hour. When I came out to&#xA;  start it and try it again, everything worked fine. I have been trying&#xA;  to see if I can get them to fail for the last couple days and&#xA;  everything seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a heat-related issue... or at least affected by it. If it is, then driving it a lot and braking more &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; cause it to happen again, although I don't recommend you driving it around much at all in this condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The brake fluid was at an acceptable level as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What color is the fluid? How old?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Could be that the fluid is so old and full of contaminants that when heated, it became very very compressible. although probably not that likely to be or behave THAT bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much braking did you do during that driving around before the problem occurred? Were you braking hard at any point?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How much time lapsed since going into the store and getting out to start to car with everything working again?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How are the pads, rotors, etc.? When was the last time you had them serviced?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How was the fluid level while the problem was occurring?&#xA;When did you last change fluids?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling gung-ho about it then I would suggest starting by changing fluids; and if you really want to start replacing parts, replace the brake cylinders, unless those parts are relatively new.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do not normally work on cars or are not comfortable with working on the brake system, I strongly suggest taking it to a mechanic for proper diagnosis and repair. Brakes are super safety critical for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABS system is a good thing to check, as mentioned by someone.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Calipers too, as mentioned by someone, although I feel like it wouldnt be this bad.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;it could be anything at this point, you gotta start diagnosis somewhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need moar info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastEditorUserId="9314" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T00:51:11.700" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T00:51:11.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31640" CreationDate="2016-06-10T01:05:00.493" Score="3" ViewCount="9610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find the MAF sensor on my 96 Ford E350.  (Been googling for hours :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case a picture helps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Cx9D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Cx9D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Intake manifold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I've been looking for quite a while, and I can't find anything. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:56:22.030" Title="1996 Ford E350 (5.8L) Mass Air Flow Sensor - where is it?" Tags="|ford|maf|econoline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T03:09:58.970" Score="1" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have a 84 Honda XL350R.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know redlining a dirt bike is not good, but what about lugging in a high gear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say lugging I mean lugging.(no throttle whatsoever, can say the 4 stroke cycle suck,squeeze,bang,blow, as the engine runs.)  I was just doing this to see if the bike would stall and I was impressed, also when I do this (which I do rarely so) I go from 1st gear to 4th with no throttle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this cant be good but will it hurt my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18964" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T19:26:28.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:29:56.893" Title="dirt bike low rpm lugging" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31623" CreationDate="2016-06-10T03:43:21.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like either the solenoid or the starter are wired up incorrectly. If the signal wire to the starter is connected to 12v, then the starter will turn.  Double check your solenoid wiring to be sure that it is correct.  The solenoid probably has 3 or four connections- one for incoming cable from battery, one for outgoing power to starter, one connection for a signal wire from the ignition or start switch, and sometimes there is a ground connection as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastEditorUserId="18839" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T06:15:49.437" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T06:15:49.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31533" CreationDate="2016-06-10T04:27:19.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have bent the shaft. That would cause it to shake and add drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T04:27:19.930" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-06-10T04:46:19.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be on or near the air cleaner assembly. It looks like a square thing with a 60 pin connector on it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-f250-how-to-clean-a-faulty-mass-airflow-sensor-361730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-f250-how-to-clean-a-faulty-mass-airflow-sensor-361730&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T04:46:19.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:12:31.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your manual. Pages 40 to 46. There is a page that refer to diagnosis of starting issues. There is also a schematic. It mentions loose connections etc. &#xA;Check all your connections and examine all the wiring for signs of corrosion and arcing (melted insulation etc). It also mentions what to do about induced water damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this could be a duplicate post concerning the same boat regarding an electrical issue....then I've answered both questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T05:18:07.050" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T05:18:07.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:40:35.717" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the AC compressor, what wire is hot?  Black with white stripe or solid black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18966" LastEditorUserId="12612" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T18:18:37.913" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T18:18:37.913" Title="Troubleshooting wires and fusable links in '96 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl. 5 speed manual" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31658" CreationDate="2016-06-10T06:08:10.700" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should I warm up the engine before starting casually riding it in the city for keeping the engine as healthy as possible? Not at all, 30sec, 5 min or longer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how long NOT to warm up please? In case it is not advised to keep the engine idle for a period of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is specifically for the R1200GS LC if that makes a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18967" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T17:16:44.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:48:26.260" Title="BMW R1200GS LC Warm Up" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|bmw|warmup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31608" CreationDate="2016-06-10T08:37:35.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the devices used for this job, but due to the negative sign, the pressure seems to be relative, i.e. difference to ambient pressure. (When the device is disconnected and doesn't run, the gauge should show a pressure of zero, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute air pressure at altitude is shown in this plot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOsTs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOsTs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for the odd values, but I'm used to SI units...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30inHg is the absolute air pressure at sealevel at standard conditions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;At your altitude, the absolute pressure is 25inHg.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Sanity check: Denver Airport (1656m) currently has 832hPa, which fits really good into the curve.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can't pull 30inHg, since then you would have a negative amount of gas molecules inside the system. The highest value you can get is 25inHg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get 21inHg which corresponds to an altitude of about 11,000ft, so this can't be explained by you being at not exactly 5,000ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the system holds the vacuum, I'd say there's a problem with the device. Either the pump itself or the pipes between pump and valve has a small leak. The pump may be defect, or the oil also used as sealant is low, old or contaminated. (Though it looks and sometimes smells like motor oil, it isn't, and using the wrong oil can heavily affect the performance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating a vacuum is not only done to remove water (seriously, how much water could be in there, plus there's a dry cartridge), it's more because it's important to have no other gases except the R-134 inside system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From that point of view, if you can't create a good vacuum, it may be possible to flush the system by adding a little R-134 and removing it again a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I really wonder why the pressure is measured relative to ambient pressure, since this leads to exactly the problem occurring here, too: Not knowing what max. value should be achieved at your location...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Since people seems to have interest in this graph, here's the formula you can use for excel etc.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pressure = 1013hPa * exp (- altitude / 8400m)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1013hPa&lt;/code&gt; is the normalized air pressure at sea level in hecto-pascal. You can replace it by &lt;code&gt;760 Torr&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;1.013bar&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;14.7psi&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;29.9inHg&lt;/code&gt; or whatever the pressure is in your favorite unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;8400m&lt;/code&gt; is a constant in meters, you can replace it by &lt;code&gt;27559ft&lt;/code&gt; or whatever to match your unit of altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T09:09:48.760" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T09:09:48.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T09:41:11.040" Score="0" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ve rim of r13.&#xA;Is it possible for wheel size r14 to fit into this ..I don't Want to change the wheels &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18970" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T10:39:00.563" Title="Can a tyre of r14 fir into a wheel of r14" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-11T12:10:01.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31637" CreationDate="2016-06-10T10:39:00.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number immediately following the R in tyre size information denotes the diameter of the wheel which that tyre is designed to be mounted upon.  This is quotes in inches and the beads of the tyres (i.e. the bits that seal against the rim) are made to be the appropriate diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must ensure that your wheel diameter and tyre diameter number match exactly or the tyre will not mount upon the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T10:39:00.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31634" CreationDate="2016-06-10T13:17:30.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solid black is your ground. That's standard on most vehicles, and certainly on Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:17:30.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-06-10T13:31:17.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it turns out that the 1996 Ford E350 doesn't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; a Mass Air Flow sensor - hence the trouble finding it :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGmdU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGmdU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MAP sensor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3EZdt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3EZdt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Where the MAP sensor is&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help with this! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:56:22.030" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:56:22.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2016-06-10T14:27:56.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vanugard off-road products (&lt;a href=&quot;http://vanguardoffroad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://vanguardoffroad.com/&lt;/a&gt;), are bumper guards and nerf bards mounted to the steel frame of the vehicle. The company is also referred to as auto-beauty. However, I have vanguard bumper guards (chrome) mounted tot he front and rear of my SUV, and I know they are frame mounted because I looked. The rear bumper guard is mounted where a tow hitch wound be mounted, so that is frame mounted. The front bumper guard is frame mounted because I looked underneath the plastic covers while my car had some maintenance work done on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The empirical evidence aside from what I see is that my car was hit from the rear and the front on two different occasions. A young woman in a compact car hit my car from the rear while I was stopped in traffic about a mile from my home, heading home. She did not get out of her car to assess the damage or anything. I got out, looked at my rear bumper and saw that the bumper guard prevented my rear bumper from taking any damage. Granted, it was a low speed collision and she actually pushed the bumper guard about a half inch closer to my rear bumper, but no damage nonetheless. The front of my car was hit while it was parked by a older man parking his mazda 6. He was backing up, rather fast, and didn't bother to hit the brake. He used my car to stop his. I felt that was a rather disgusting move. Careless and disrespectful. Nontheless, my front bumper was saved from impact by the bumper guard, which again was moved towards the bumper a bit less than half an inch. In both cases, collissions slower than 10mpg, and in both cases, the frame mounted vanguard bumper guards prevented my bumpers from getting hit. Car bumpers have very soft attachments meant to bend and break on most impacts, so even low speed collisions can require hundreds of dollars in labor and materials. Most car bumpers are close to 1k new, plus paint to match the car, labor to remove the old, and attach the new bumper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen bumper guards (I love in NY) that I suspected of not being frame mounted. I honestly don't see if vehicles have any body parts that allow bumper guard mounting other than the frame itself, which has holes in it (front the factory) for accessories like winches and tow hitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18975" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T14:27:56.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31645" CreationDate="2016-06-10T14:57:11.197" Score="4" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1999 ML430 is on its last legs, and one of the issues is that the power driver's seat is stuck in one position, all the way at the back and partially reclined (my husband can drive it now, but nobody else can). My husband and I both have some electronics experience, and I've done minor repairs on other vehicles before. Is this a problem we can repair ourselves? How would we go about doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T16:16:21.127" Title="Can I fix the power seat in my ML430 myself?" Tags="|repair|mercedes-benz|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T15:08:50.027" Score="4" ViewCount="21637" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car:2007 Chrysler 300 2.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to start my car this morning, put it in drive, but it wouldn't go. Then I put it in reverse and it would drive back as well as neutral. So then I turned the car engine off and tried again - I put it in drive and it went in reverse. When I put in reverse it won't move. I went from low gear to drive and it went into drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18976" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T13:31:17.233" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T02:31:31.990" Title="Car goes in reverse when put in drive" Tags="|transmission|chrysler-300|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31643" CreationDate="2016-06-10T15:50:10.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the shift linkage is loose or partially broken. Lift the car up and look at where the linkage connects to the transmission. I've seen where the brackets rot causing similar complaints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T15:50:10.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31642" CreationDate="2016-06-10T16:16:21.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your airbag warning light on?  Especially if it is, you should check under the seat to see if any cables are unplugged - it could be as simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also two 30amp fuses UNDER the fuse box in the engine compartment. If the seat just stopped working completely it could be one of those. You have to unbolt the fuse box cover and look down by the ebox fan and you'll see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T16:16:21.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31653" CreationDate="2016-06-10T17:04:39.700" Score="16" ViewCount="1764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque wrenches, while straightforward in concept, require much different use and care compared to a regular ratchet. This can be confusing to someone who has never used one before. There are several answers to be found on SE but it requires a lot of searching for specific queries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is focused on mechanical &quot;click-type&quot; torque wrenches as they seem the most likely type to be used by a home mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for standard practices on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proper use&lt;/strong&gt; of a torque wrench which prevents damage to both the wrench and the object being wrenched upon;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proper care&lt;/strong&gt; of a torque wrench which will ensure a long usable life (including maintenance and storage procedures, e.g., storing at lowest setting).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12612" LastEditorUserId="12612" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T20:40:01.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T15:51:11.427" Title="Standard Practices for Use and Care of Click-Type Torque Wrenches" Tags="|maintenance|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T17:25:38.743" Score="3" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was no indication of a problem last time the vehicle was driven. This morning when starting there was immediate clang/grind sound and rocking of the vehicle. Motor oil began leaking below the vehicle. I have photos of the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would first appreciate it if you can confirm the location. I believe this is the engine block, being the lowest portion of the engine, just above the transmission case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the below photo, the break is near the top edge, to the right of the bolt head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTnKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;upper left engine block break 2003 Suburban&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this break on the engine block?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What would be the likely causes? (It does seem like this was caused by impact of a broken moving part, and not the usual combustion?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting to know how often this might happen. Seems like a really rare problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0meLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine block break 2003 Suburban&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcWJY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcWJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine block break 2003 Suburban&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPzR3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPzR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine block break 2003 Suburban&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastEditorUserId="2571" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T15:50:29.337" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T15:50:29.337" Title="Engine block (?) break, please confirm and suggest causes - 2003 Suburban" Tags="|engine|suburban|breakdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30127" CreationDate="2016-06-10T17:29:26.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at the circuit diagram, I will try and clarify what wires should go where. The ignition/starter circuit (key and Start button) should not be connected in any way to the Stop button and Lanyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Testing the Start circuit&lt;/strong&gt;. With the key turned to the ON position, you should get ~12v on one side only of the start button (can't tell what colour wire from the diagram, but the short one that runs from the key switch, probably brown or red). When you press the Start button, you should then get 12v appearing on the brown wire that runs down to the starter relay. Disconnect the relay when trying this just to make sure all is ok with the wiring up to there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that... You mention turning the key to Start position? It sounds like the circuit has been modified or is a different version to the one in the diagram. Do you have the Start button? There should not be any voltage going to the starter relay from the key when in the On position. It should only put 12v to the starter relay when turned to the Start position. Thinking of your wiring description, it is also possible the key switch is double pole, not single pole as in the circuit diagram, hence the black/white wires going to it. Is it possible to get a picture of the back of the panel with all the switch wiring showing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ok, next to test the kill circuit&lt;/strong&gt;. It looks like it uses the standard method of cutting the CDI - a kill wire (white) runs from CDI to the Stop switch and in parallel to the Lanyard. The black wire is connected to ground/0V in the electrics box and when connected via either switch to the white wire, kills the CDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Stop switch will be Normally Open. The Lanyard switch will be Normally Closed. When you attach the lanyard itself, it opens the switch allowing the engine to run. If you pull the lanyard out, it reverts to it's normally closed state and kill the CDI. So to test, put your meter into continuity mode and check that the Stop button is open circuit when not depressed and that the lanyard switch is also open circuit when the lanyard is attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Thermo switch is still in the circuit, you will want to check this in the same way as the Stop/Lanyard switches. It appears from the diagram to operate in the same way, Normally Open, when connected to ground will kill the CDI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of more concern is why the fuse is blowing. It appears the only power going through it is from the battery to the starter circuit and from the reg/rec unit to the battery once the engine is running. However, if as you say the lanyard and Stop are somehow connected to the ignition switch, as soon as you stop the engine, you will create a short and blow the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastEditorUserId="9351" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T18:00:41.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T18:00:41.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2016-06-10T17:52:08.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car has a hidden hitch, you could put a step or carrier back there.  May not help much, but would at least give them something to hit before they hit your bumper.  A hitch will also put a nice hole through their radiator...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T17:52:08.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32168" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:32:28.890" Score="3" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a squeak when I turn my steering wheel for about 6 months now, and it's driving my insane.  The squeak shows up after a day in the rain, and lasts about a week after the last time driving in wet conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked all the standard places for a squeak such as the steering stabilizer and trackbar joints by removing them one at a time turning the wheel.  Neither of them were the culprit, so I assumed it was my tie-rod.  I ordered a new tie rod online and installed it yesterday.  To my dismay the squeak is still there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really hard to pinpoint, but it seems to be coming from the passenger wheel area.  What other parts involved with steering could be causing the squeak? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put some poly bushings in my control arms 18months ago, but I don't see how those (which are just supposed to move up and down) could be causing a squeak while steering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no noise when it's dry, but after a day of driving in the rain, or four wheeling in mud/water it tends to squeak for a few days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This noise is annoying and embarrassing, any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2274" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T21:03:17.333" Title="Solid front axle squeak while steering in wet conditions" Tags="|jeep|steering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:40:46.140" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my brake pad,caliper and rotor for all 4. its a 2004 Nissan Murano. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, when I am driving inside the city for an hour or so and perform frequent braking, the front right side brake will heat up.  When I stop at a signal and then accelerate, it will make noise as if its stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18979" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T18:50:09.980" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T18:50:09.980" Title="Brake pad and caliper seizing" Tags="|brakes|nissan|murano|seizing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31570" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:57:18.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sandpaper and Rubbing Compound&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once clear coat is applied you need to sand it with low grit wet and dry sand paper and then rub it out with low grit rubbing compound.  This is how you will get it to shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to get some of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=wet%20and%20dry%20sandpaper&amp;amp;oq=wet%20and%20dry%20sandpaper&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5279j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this sandpaper in 1000 to 3000&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; grit levels as well as some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=car%20paint%20rubbing%20compound&amp;amp;oq=car%20paint%20rubbing%20compound&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.7031j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rubbing and polishing compound.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with 1000 grit sandpaper, you can use this with water to carry away the fine debris.  Work your way to a finer and finer grit with the sandpaper.  Follow this up with low grit rubbing compound.  You can use moist towels and rags wit the rubbing compound to make a hard surface on the rag after repeatedly buffing.  If you have a buffing wheel, this will go much faster.  You will see the surface of the paint improve over time begin to shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T18:57:18.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31646" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:02:08.590" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main things I've always heard/done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always unwind before storing.  This helps to keep stress off the springs.  If you leave it wound up, the springs can get weak and give inaccurate torque readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go past the click.  Once it clicks, don't turn it further.  Can't remember why you shouldn't do this (aside from over-torquing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to use as few extensions as possible.  Not sure if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always use the right torque wrench for the job.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;25ft/lb - 1/4&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;25-75 ft/lb - 3/8&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;75 - 150ft/lb - 1/2&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;150lb+ - 3/4&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:02:08.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31629" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:29:56.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your oil pressure is lower&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the big issue with lugging is a considerably lower oil pressure along with high load.  You don't want your connecting rod breaking the hydrodynamic lubrication layer of oil between your connecting rod and crank pin thereby causing damage to the bearing and the pin.  This could cause permanent engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this at idle could be just fine as the load is relatively low but as @rpmperf indicated in the comments, if you give the bike gas and open the throttle and the engine is unable to pull you forward and accelerate then you are getting into dangerous territory of high load and low oil pressure which can cause the damage you are concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:29:56.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31647" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:49:28.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the pictures, that does appear to be the block.  As for what would cause this damage, I'm not sure, but it doesn't look good.  Usually damage in this area means a new engine is in order.  If you really want to know what happened, pull the oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:49:28.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31646" CreationDate="2016-06-10T21:43:10.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a &quot;Deflecting Beam&quot; torque wrench, they are designed to be uses only for tightening. DO NOT use it to undo a thread. Otherwise the wrench will need to be re-calibrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgdoL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgdoL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T22:23:01.567" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T22:23:01.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31635" CreationDate="2016-06-10T22:27:17.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A minute or so is usually fine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your riding in sub-freezing temperatures of course, then you'll want to let it warm up a bit, but if not.  I wouldn't worry much about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LC version of your BMW boxer motor has considerably tighter tolerances than the air cooled version as it does not have the temp/heat variance as much as an air cooled engine has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means, it's more modern and less prone to piston rattle and what not and can be run much sooner than an air cooled engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When warming up an engine I'm typically touching the cylinder and ensuring that it's getting hot.  After a minute or so of running on LC engines, I feel comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, I'll just start them up, do a few short rev's and take off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T23:48:26.260" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:48:26.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31666" CreationDate="2016-06-10T22:29:07.190" Score="5" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having low oil pressure issues on my 2007 VW Jetta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil pump filter was dirty because the previous owner didn't did the minimum oil changes.  I took it to a mechanic and he did an oil change and cleaned the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that he told me was that this cleaning and oil change must be done &lt;strong&gt;at least two more times&lt;/strong&gt; in order for the cleaning to be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18984" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T22:47:59.857" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T04:42:31.010" Title="Are mutliple oil and filter changes necessary to 'clean' an engine?" Tags="|vw|oil-change|jetta|oil-filter|oil-pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T22:32:46.723" Score="5" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a longer drive (45 minutes on highway) my turbo is spooling but not putting power to the tires. The revs just kinda bounce there like it's hitting a limiter but it's only around 5k rpm. This then goes away once the car sits (overnight or after a couple hours) but comes back again after another highway drive.  No check engine light or other dash lights are lit up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1997 Subaru WRX STI Type R&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18985" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T19:31:58.057" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:31:58.057" Title="1997 Subaru WRX STI Type R - Strange and occasional turbo lag" Tags="|engine|subaru|turbocharger|wrx|turbo-lag|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31663" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:37:28.290" Score="6" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son took my wife's all-wheel CR-V down a rough road and bent one of the suspension brackets for the central drive shaft. The car was still movable, but made grinding noises as he drove the last few miles to his destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of the bent bracket (ignore the dented muffler; we'll deal with that later):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ck7z3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ck7z3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of drive shaft bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aXuB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aXuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of drive shaft bracket from below&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not there, and he's about 80 miles from home. I'm considering driving there tomorrow in my own car, bending the bracket back into place, and then having him drive the CR-V home to be serviced next week. I figure the bracket, seal and bearing are toast, and driving it won't break anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem like a good plan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: I'm told he drove it about five miles between prang and destination. It made nasty sounds, and when he checked underneath he found it was hot (probably the bracket rubbing against the driveshaft). They tried to bend it back with the lug wrench to no avail, but I have some serious persuaders I could bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final info: I did decide to get it flat-bedded to a local shop. My thinking was that a quick fix could probably let me drive the 80 miles home, but if something happened it would be seriously bad news. So, the shop will be replacing the whole driveshaft, as it doesn't come in separate parts. They also recommended replacing the muffler, but was fine with not doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastEditorUserId="7354" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T21:49:24.790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T21:49:24.790" Title="Pranged bearing bracket on main driveshaft: can I drive the car?" Tags="|drivetrain|bearing|seal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31661" CreationDate="2016-06-11T01:52:28.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's safe/wise to drive 80 miles on that. It needs to be put on a trailer and dragged home at son's expense (some insurances cover towing also, but 80 miles is a bit far. If you have a truck, maybe rent a trailer for the day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T01:52:28.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31668" CreationDate="2016-06-11T04:18:48.210" Score="8" ViewCount="36625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed my engine's piston rings and do not know how long I should let the engine break in. The engine is an '06 Chevrolet 1.5L SOHC. And how is the procedure done just by letting it sit idly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastEditorUserId="13160" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T05:13:49.977" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T19:11:11.567" Title="How do I properly break in an engine after a rebuild" Tags="|break-in|rebuild|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31659" CreationDate="2016-06-11T04:42:31.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of times the oil and filter are changed in the process of cleaning out an engine is not a fixed number. We keep changing it until it stays clean. Two changes is a common average. The change interval also matters; we use an interval of 200 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are too many variables to establish a set cleaning routine. The amount and type of internal engine deposits vary, some shops will use cleaning agents added to the oil, engine oil varies in the cleaning agents they contain. All of these change the cleaning time. We stop the changes when the oil remains light brown and somewhat transparent. For gasoline engines dark brown or black oil that is blocks light transfer needs to be changed. Diesel engines accumulate carbon in the oil at too fast a rate to use this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other way to clean the engine is to take it apart and clean it manually. We always suggest that the valve cover be remove and cleaned when engine deposits are suspected. This allows a much better view of the inside of the engine thereby allowing a more accurate plan to be formulated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And ,as always, a reminder that an engine should not be run at all if the low oil pressure light is on. Damage happens very rapidly when oil pressure is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T04:42:31.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31685" CreationDate="2016-06-11T05:36:13.323" Score="4" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently obtained an RX7 and was told it worked fine but would not start due to the clutch going out while it was sitting some wires near the alternator were chewed by rats too, so after the wires and the clutch were all fixed I went to try to start it it won't turn over. When I connect the battery to it and turn the key I hear a loud buzzing sound coming from the engine bay, somewhere near the alternator, all the error and warning lights up on the dashboard also light up and a shift up light comes on the dash. If I turn the heater on the buzz goes away, but when I go to turn the key nothing turns over at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The engine does turn over freely, I tried by hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be checking for fuses/power tomorrow, and may be able to read an ecu error code if there are any, but I as wondering if anybody knew what could be causing this problem, thank you for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T01:59:34.757" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T19:06:03.723" Title="1988 RX7 not starting, buzzing" Tags="|electrical|starting|mazda|rx7|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31665" CreationDate="2016-06-11T05:51:57.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Piston ring breaking standard procedure involves how the engine is used for the first 500 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No extended idle time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy low power driving with lots of changes of rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No high power accelleration or high load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No steady speed driving as in long trips with steady cruise speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some oil burn is not uncommon in the first few thousand miles.&#xA;An oil change at the 500 mile mark is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T05:51:57.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31661" CreationDate="2016-06-11T06:01:39.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My options would be to replace the shaft were it sits now. No fun as a &quot;flat back&quot; job but it is not very hard. Or tow it to a repair site. It does not look like it should be driven. A driveshaft that gets loose can cause lots of damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the shaft and driving without one in place is not an option as this would likely damage the dual pump drive system in the rear differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T06:01:39.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28184" CreationDate="2016-06-11T08:14:30.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem. Apparently it was a long piece of paper carried into fan assembly by a mouse. After running for a while paper must be choking the fan and thus stopping the air flow. Thanks everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T08:14:30.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31570" CreationDate="2016-06-11T09:47:22.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;@IHNIWID ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the &quot;color&quot; coat(s) need to be wet-sanded aka &quot;color sanded&quot;. And then thoroughly cleaned of sanding dust. This needs to be perfectly smooth before clear, even if it appears dull. The quality of a mirror, for instance, is not as dependent on the glass as much as the overall flatness of the silvering reflective coating or layer. I'm not a body guy, and I learned that expensive and laborious lesson too late from a real pro -- after experiencing much poorer results than the OP. I vowed not to attempt such foolishness again without guidance. Art and experience, not so much science. I was sure clear would make it perfect. It was worse. And black, the trickiest of all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver is also finicky.  One reason is the metal flake to make it silver will lay differently depending on the state of electrostatic charge.  OEMs paint cars with all panels completely electrically grounded to minimize variation.  But there still is some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is just no way a Duplicolor rattle can is going to perfectly color match an expensive PPG or BASF (is that a VW?) factory formula at $300 a quart. UV ages paint as well, the color shifts, and the spray can has no way of knowing.   Plus, no OEM uses enamel much anymore... they are much more sophisticated urthethanes and other polymers, which can't be shot out of a rattle can nozzle easily, and also contain isocyanates and other super-nasty solvents too toxic to be deemed available to public retail -- that might spray in their driveway next to the kids and dog without a respirator and a downdraft booth.  (no offense to the OP intended-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also also, the OP set himself up with a difficult challenge.  By painting only the hood, his paint job is laid directly adjacent to OEM paint on the flat top part of the fenders.  That makes a very easy instant visual comparison, making the slight difference very obvious.  Even a pro would probably not attempt that... while much more expensive, the fender tops would also be stripped, and the color coat blended to the outside fender edge where it rolls over to vertical.  Any color difference or gloss difference would be obscured as the light angle is different.  To the eyes and brain it would just seem like a shadow and dismissed. Take a look at the two OP results pictures and you'll see instantly what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, I honestly think it turned out very well.  My attempt was in a clean, temperature controlled shop environment, with expensive paint, cleaners, and a huge amount of prep work.  And it looked awful.  Because I didn't color sand before clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T12:25:31.037" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T12:25:31.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8514" CreationDate="2016-06-11T11:06:19.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you're now transferring impact to the frame.  While that sounds good in that the soft parts of the car won't get damaged in a low speed collision, it has downsides.  At some point the frame is going to bend, and it's likely to happen at a lower impact than you would expect.  I'd rather replace body panels than have to do a frame pull (nowadays a car is usually totaled rather than even attempting a frame pull).  You're also giving up the spreading of impact over time as the frame does not give so gently as the other parts.  This could lead to increased chance of occupant injury and death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great for off-road vehicles where you might need to limp back to civilization after having &quot;too much fun&quot;.  In a normal street going car, well, maybe not so much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T11:06:19.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T11:10:06.660" Score="2" ViewCount="10187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of purchasing a 2001 Honda Civic that has v-tec on the side panel of the drivers side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are V-TEC engines reliable, and are they well known for performance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car I'm thinking of has 300,000 kms on it. Will it be worn out by this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T22:32:03.950" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T21:21:02.387" Title="Is V-TEC Reliable?" Tags="|engine|honda|vtec|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T11:16:44.330" Score="5" ViewCount="4183" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch on the AC compressor and radiator fan seem to kick on and off at same time with a 2 to 3 second delay. I suggested maybe a relay fault or a faulty connector. Please help, mom has dialysis in the AM and she needs her vehicle this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1996 dodge Dakota 4 cylinder, 5 speed, Manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18966" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T02:47:54.390" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T02:47:54.390" Title="The ac clutch kicks on and off in sync with the radiator fan. This is definitely not right. Whats wrong?" Tags="|ac|dodge|fan|dakota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31660" CreationDate="2016-06-11T11:40:57.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too long for comment, but I &lt;em&gt;suspect&lt;/em&gt; wastegate linkage or door not closing fully due to distortion from heat  (it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hot around there).  You could try and get it hot enough to duplicate the problem, park, and attempt operate the wastegate manually with pliers or gloves... but it's tricky to get to without removing the turbo heatshield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the boost control solenoid is working, because if it isn't you will be limited to raw wastegate (around 7psi I think) with a 0% effective duty cycle. Which will be crappy choppy (bouncy revs) boost in the heart of the boosting range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And get a boost gauge - easy install and you should have one anyway.  That will tell you a lot. I suppose it could be a &quot;boost leak&quot;, like a cracked inlet hose or loose intercooler connection, but the &quot;bouncy rev limiter&quot; symptom suggests a turbine leak more than the compressor side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the actual wastegate door, you will have to drop the downpipe to even get an inspection mirror look.  And while it's rebuildable, maybe it's time for a TD05, VF24 or VF30?  Because I'm certain you're rich like I am... or &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'm a Scooby Geek, but not &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; Subaru Geek.   &lt;em&gt;(He taught me everything I know... but I found out later he didn't teach me everything he knew...)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T11:51:17.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T11:51:17.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31679" CreationDate="2016-06-11T15:58:16.717" Score="3" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are already a number of &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/6037/18995&quot;&gt;answers regarding ways to fix small scratches in bodywork&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure of the exact &quot;nature&quot; of the damage to the fairing of my motorbike: It's not my bike, though I am considering it to buy because it is otherwise in good condition and has a good price:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAqss.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAqss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged fairing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZ01y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZ01y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of entire motorcycle with scratch highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The discolored bits are noticeable by touch, and so it does seem to be some sort of scratch, but they are not deep (or at least not deep to a layperson like myself-- perhaps they really are &quot;deep&quot; scratches in terms of bodywork?); What are my options for fixing this as cheaply as possible?-- would getting matching paint from Honda themselves not be ridiculously expensive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18995" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T23:48:20.107" Title="Cheap diagnosis/repair of damaged fairing" Tags="|motorcycle|repair|body-work|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31677" CreationDate="2016-06-11T19:15:42.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it certainly looks like that is an injection molded plastic piece. Its probably ABS, but it could be anything.  The good news is that it doesn't look like it will get much movement in that area.  You could do sheet metal style bondo (polyester resin) fix, sand and repaint repair.  This isn't always wise on parts that have to remain flexible (e.g. a front or rear fascia on a car.. too much flexibility there, the bondo will crack right off.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Brian Knoblach mentions, its VERY difficult to do this sort of repair and make things look mint perfect. Injection molded plastic has this weird characteristic.  The outer skin of plastic is smooth and hard. Once you break thru a thin layer of the outer skin, the inner material is not so dense.  It doesn't sand well at all.  Makes a mess. I have seen some high tech tooling guys use palm sander tools that keep the area being sanded frozen (so its very hard and rigid, but I always that was crazy for most of us.) You can fill with bondo, sand, fill with bondo sand and eventually make it look nice but you need to be way patient.  Generally you will want to repaint the entire part.  Its hard to blend unless you have a distinctive character line in the shape to handle tape off.  In this case that deep valley that runs left to right above the amber marker lamp offers a great opportunity (the one that just touches the lower left of your red box in the photo above).  You will also have to account for clear coat paint in your repair, including decals under clear coat.  (Using that valley above should preclude a decal issue here... I'm quite sure that Honda decal is under clear coat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That really is a nice bike; I really like the rear storage bins.  Good luck with it. Stay safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, in response to the comment &lt;code&gt;I suppose this means the answer to my question is &quot;No, there's not a cheap way to fix it&quot;.&lt;/code&gt; Oh, no, not necessarily for repairing damage on a vehicle.  The equation for you is Time + Energy + a little bit of money will start to get this totally done.  Money necessary for sandpaper, bondo.  The real problem is matching the paint.  That looks like a metal flake plus clear coat.  Which means it has to be sprayed.  No way around that. And the paint store has $$ minimums for custom matched paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were a flat color you'd have a shot at doing the thin and foam roll it on a la $50 paint job.  I really hate spraying paint.  The overspray goes everywhere. You really have to wear a mask, and not a cheap mask at that. You need a clean place to work... I just hate that hassle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Er.. wait just a minute. What's the $50 paint job? you ask.  Good question!  This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the $50 car paint job.&lt;/a&gt;  I love that posting.  Basically you use commonly available enamel paint, thin it way thin, and roll it on with a small foam roller.  Apply 10 or 12 coats, and it looks awesome.  The real problem with paint is getting the stuff to dry through and through. Putting in on in super thin coats helps with that.  The issue is, this technique really only works with solid colors, no metal flake allowed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could redo the entire bike in a totally different color cheaper then you could spray the small portion you need in metal flake.  But such is life.  And in fact, it is often the case that when somebody takes a hard spill on a full faired bike, it re-emerges in a new solid enamel color. All black seems to be popular.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T23:48:20.107" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T23:48:20.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T20:27:37.010" Score="1" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a new battery it would start. But auto zone told me alternator was bad. Changed it now i have nothing no crank or start. Hooked it all back up like it was &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18997" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T22:37:57.750" Title="Changed alternator bought new battery will not start" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T21:48:40.193" Score="9" ViewCount="5485" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clear coat on my car's finish is getting kind of tired, dull and scratchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to recondition and renew it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume I will need to polish the existing clear coat somehow and then apply additional new clear coat with an air brush or something like that. What is the procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T22:36:31.867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T19:29:12.903" Title="Recondition clear coat?" Tags="|paint|finish|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31680" CreationDate="2016-06-11T22:37:57.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recheck the wires that connect the battery and the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you get power anywhere else in the car? Lights? When you turn the key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your new battery could be bad. If so, you could try jumping the car, and it should keep running if the alternator is good. If it starts but doesnt keep running when you disconnect everything, then alternator is bad. If it doesnt start with jump, then ur jumping it wrong or maybe ur starter is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9314" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T22:37:57.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31682" CreationDate="2016-06-12T00:15:47.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearcoat that is dull can be polished back to a nice shine in most cases. A polish of the correct grit and type is needed. This one works well for us, others are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVf0B.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVf0B.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Polish&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;dual Action&quot; polisher is the easiest tool to use. Polishing can be done by hand with much time and effort. A single action rotary buffer tool can be used but needs an experienced hand to avoid damaging the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MolS4.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MolS4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Polisher&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First clean the whole vehicle to remove all contaminates. High pressure water is used to clear all grit from crevices. &#xA;Then as an optional step would be to use a clay bar to remove stuck on contaminates. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQvQB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQvQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paint contaminates&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMbvE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMbvE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clay bar kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions for the chosen polish; usually this involves polishing one small area at a time. Clean off all the dried polish.  As long as the paint is intact this is all that will be needed. Applying new clearcoat by itself is not a common repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T19:29:12.903" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T19:29:12.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31667" CreationDate="2016-06-12T01:12:35.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a lead plate weld broken inside the battery.  I would try a new battery, or at least determine if the battery is taking a charge before trying anything else.  You can measure the OCV &quot;open circuit voltage&quot; of the battery by connecting a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery with the the car completely off.  And NO chargers of any type connected now or recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything below 11 volts warrants a new battery.  Really, anything below 12 volts is marginal.  My guess is yours will read 0-5 volts.  Dead.  Cannot be resurrected by any means other than replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T19:06:03.723" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T19:06:03.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31688" CreationDate="2016-06-12T01:17:45.323" Score="8" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 2012 Ford Escape 3.0 L with about 85,000 miles on it and brake pads have about 4 months on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive on the expressway and I get to about 70+ mph the steering wheel shakes like I'm riding over rocks. This last the entire time I'm over the speed limit, I mean over 70 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could this shaking come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17797" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-09-16T16:18:00.800" LastActivityDate="2018-09-16T16:18:00.800" Title="Steering wheel vibrations at highway speeds" Tags="|ford|vibration|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31674" CreationDate="2016-06-12T02:36:50.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked ALLDATA.  The A/C switch grounds the AC SELECT input at the Powertarain Control Module (PCM).   The high (normally closed) and low (normally open) pressure switches in series (may be the same housing) ground the AC REQUEST input at the PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those two inputs, the PCM sinks the AC RELAY output.  This should engage the AC compressor clutch.  I am also &lt;em&gt;assuming&lt;/em&gt; that it sinks the FAN RELAY output for the radiator fan relay, unless it's already on based on the ECT (engine coolant temperature) input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(The single fan only has one relay and one speed, near as I can tell.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So cold, fresh start, the A/C is off, and the high and low side A/C pressures are equal... enough pressure to close the &quot;low&quot; switch and provide the AC REQUEST signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as soon as the AC compressor clutch engages, the compressor &quot;pump&quot; tries to move low side refrigerant to the high side, raising the high side pressure and &lt;em&gt;lowering&lt;/em&gt; the low side pressure.  That's the way it's supposed to work.  But if the system is lacking refrigerant, the low side pressure becomes TOO low, and opens the low pressure switch, defeating the PCM AC REQUEST signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCM rightfully determines this is a problem, and disables the compressor clutch and fan relay.  Then, the low and high side pressures equalize, the low pressure switch closes, and the PCM tries again to engage the AC compressor clutch and radiator/condenser fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCM doesn't know the actual pressures, or the state of refrigerant charge, so the whole cycle wickedly repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Monie, you need not be concerned about any of this technobabble.  Get your AC refrigerant charge checked by a professional with the proper manifold gauge set.  It is quite possible a 20-year-old vehicle has developed a small leak, perhaps at the compressor shaft seal, and is missing some needed refrigerant.  Your system can be leak tested and recharged for a complete and proper repair.  I would not suggest simply adding a can of refrigerant from the auto parts store without thorough knowledge, a leak test, and the proper gauge set and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T02:36:50.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31686" CreationDate="2016-06-12T02:46:32.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires, or a front wheel has thrown a balancing weight would be my first assumption.  Examine both front tires for uneven wear, &quot;cupping&quot; (scalloped depressions where tread gets shallow in evenly spaced pockets around the circumference).  If the tires appear fine everywhere, it may simply be that a balancing weight has come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, there might be a tie rod going bad.  But the specific speed occurrence you describe is likely a tire issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local tire shop should be able to provide an &lt;em&gt;evaluation&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;em&gt;free&lt;/em&gt;.  If not, find one that does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T03:03:35.633" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T03:03:35.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T05:39:27.983" Score="4" ViewCount="8052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer CE, unfortunately both low beam headlights don't work. However, high beams and parking lights both work. I've checked the fuse, relay and bulb, all appear to be working. You can also hear the relay clicking when the low beam is turned on, so I don't believe it's the stalk switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference on the 3 terminals to the headlights I get +12V on all terminals while low beam is on, and one terminal drops to 0V while high beam is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run out of ideas on what to test, any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I believe it is indeed the switch, as the high beam toggle no longer works, it will only stay on while it is held on. Also after turning the high beam on and off repeatedly the low beam now works again :D, and of course turning the high beam on again may stop the low beam from working again :(. So looks like I'll be heading to the wreckers for a new switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastEditorUserId="19004" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T11:33:34.187" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T00:00:26.670" Title="Electrical - Low beams out, high beams still work" Tags="|electrical|lights|mitsubishi|lancer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2016-06-12T05:57:06.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say power to all terminals, do you mean all three? You need a ground connection to complete the circuit so the light will turn on. You should have two filaments in each bulb. Both filaments should share a ground connection and have a connection for high and one for low.  You should have power to one when on low and the other on high, then ground on the last.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T05:57:06.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T06:37:01.120" Score="4" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda CBF125 Stunner. Sometimes when I increases the throttle the bike cannot attain the real speed that matches the RPM and the engine sound changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike takes more time to attain about 90kmph than earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18993" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T07:56:28.943" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T08:01:57.663" Title="my motorcycle take more time to accelerate" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|clutch|cbf125|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2016-06-12T06:45:40.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lancer's headlights are H11 type bulbs which are single filament. Perhaps the bulb is merely burnt out. Since low beams usually get more use than high beams they tend to burn out first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T06:45:40.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31692" CreationDate="2016-06-12T08:01:57.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your clutch might be bad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your clutch is slipping then the RPM's of the bike can go up but the bike doesn't accelerate as the clutch slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times a clutch will start slipping when the engine is at a higher power output.  If you are operating under higher RPM's in higher gears, this is when the greatest load is on the clutch, chances are you are experiencing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try and adjust your clutch cable and make sure there is enough play in it.  There is a writeup in this answer about clutches regarding howto adjust one.  Give that a try first, although you may have already caused damage to your it's best to ensure yours is adjusted properly, regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5713/clutch-dragging-and-making-squeaking-grinding-noise/23100#23100&quot;&gt;Clutch dragging and making squeaking/grinding noise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T08:01:57.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:21:10.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@resident_heretic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure my Lancer uses H4 bulbs, I can see the two filaments within the bulb. Regardless I tested the bulb on another vehicle and it worked fine, both high and low beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it is indeed the switch, as the high beam toggle no longer works, it will only stay on while it is held on. Also after turning the high beam on and off repeatedly the low beam now works again :D, and of course turning the high beam on again may stop the low beam from working again :(. So looks like I'll be heading to the wreckers for a new switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19004" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T09:21:10.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31697" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:27:17.030" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that a performance increasing remap is likely to increase the rate of wear and tear on certain components inside an engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is remapping an engine that already has 50k miles on the clock going to have any additional impact that needs to be considered over remapping an engine which has &amp;lt; 1k miles on the clock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is different across different engine types, let's consider a 2L turbo petrol engine that you get in the VAG S/R line models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T10:06:03.230" Title="Remapping a used engine" Tags="|performance|wear|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31696" CreationDate="2016-06-12T10:00:09.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a broad question, and I'm a Subaru geek, not a VAG geek, but I'll share my never-humble opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any flash that increases performance obviously increases stresses.  A &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; remap with careful logs and monitoring might &lt;em&gt;improve&lt;/em&gt; the longevity of any performance enhancement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, you never get something for nothing (despite the billion-dollar bolt-on industry claims) and the harder you push, the less time you will enjoy the pushing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the &quot;wear&quot; factor is fairly linear, assuming the internals and bearings are solid.  You can drink a fresh pint of beer quickly, or drink a half pint slowly.  It's a matter of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you have a rod main that's marginal, a performance reflash might be catastrophic.  The engine line and mileage are only rough guestimates...  There's no knowing how a 1K motor was treated, or how the 50K motor was treated.  If I was starting from absolute scratch and &lt;em&gt;building&lt;/em&gt; the motor, I would probably choose the 1K block.  If I'm swapping in a 50K long block, I'd leave the flash stock and log and monitor a while to get a feel of how old she feels, before I start adding boost or changing AFR tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, bottom line is that apples-apples a seasoned block and internals will be fine if they were treated properly to begin with.  Younger components &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have more wear margin (more beer to drink) but it's all a guess unless you are willing to do a complete teardown and rebuild.  What is absolutely certain is that NO motor will withstand a tune that goes lean and hot to gain performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T10:06:03.230" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T10:06:03.230" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31701" CreationDate="2016-06-12T13:10:37.653" Score="4" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't exactly a &lt;em&gt;Motor Vehicle Maintenance &amp;amp; Repair&lt;/em&gt; related question but this seems the most appropriate StackExchange community to ask it. I apologize if I am being wrong in my assumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given 2 cars that are identical in every aspect except torque produced by the engine ( identical amount of power, regardless of the unit of measurement - HP, kW, etc. - , identical weight, identical weight distribution, identical number of driven wheels, same final drive and identical aerodynamic characteristics)   and both cars are equipped with a &lt;em&gt;Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)&lt;/em&gt;, which of these 2 cars would have a greater acceleration and a greater top speed if one car is to be equipped with a diesel engine (more torque but the same HP) and the other  with a petrol engine (less torque but the same HP)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the fact that both cars use a CVT, eliminating gear numbers, gearing ratios and other aspects pertaining to a traditional gearbox. Furthermore, whether or not it is possible for such 2 vehicles to exist is not up for debate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16285" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:08:52.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:08:52.393" Title="Given the following scenario, what type of engine (diesel or petrol) allows for greater acceleration and/or top speed?" Tags="|engine-theory|torque|acceleration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:15:17.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing because my key fob stopped working, &lt;strong&gt;this is distressing&lt;/strong&gt; because the last time my fob stopped working and I opened my door with my key alone, the alarm went off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire time this last thing happened, my alarm was &lt;em&gt;loud as hell&lt;/em&gt; and going off for about &lt;em&gt;40 minutes&lt;/em&gt; because I had no way to disarm it or no knowledge to do so. I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning on the car (but it killed the engine because the alarm was still triggered, I assume)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the dead fob. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticking the key into the ignition and turning it to position 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, It got towed to my preferred mechanic where the problem eventually stopped, we reconnected the battery and my mechanic said I could just stick my key in the trunk lock and turn it once or twice and that would disarm the alarm via key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;is this true&lt;/em&gt;? or am I just crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping it's true, because that'd solve the problem of me avoiding my car like the plague and hopefully being able to drive it again. I just don't want another 40 minutes of alarm hell going off in my neighborhood. &gt;.&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any people knowledge about German alarm systems in automobiles would be helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19006" LastEditorUserId="19006" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T17:00:38.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T17:00:38.587" Title="(2003 Mercedes SLK230 Kompressor) Disarm the Alarm without Key Fob" Tags="|mercedes-benz|alarm|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31698" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:19:48.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gas engines are capable of much higher rpm than diesels, so your top speed with gas would be higher. I don't think if it is possible to build equivalent gas and diesel engines that have similar weight and HP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T14:19:48.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31698" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:43:47.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torque doesn't matter. It's power. The difference is that diesel engines have their peak power at lower RPM compared to petrol engines. Same power at lower RPM means more torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Think about: The motor of my car has max. torque of 95Nm. I torque the wheel lugs with 110Nm by hand. So why can the motor accelerate my car to 150km/h, while I can push it to walking speed only, though I can apply more torque?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The capability to accelerate seems to be higher for a diesel, because people tend to not accelerate  near the max. RPM, where a petrol engine has max. power. They mostly accelerate with moderately high RPM, where a diesel engine has its max. power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gearbox is a torque converter. If the first gear has a ratio of 1:4 and the last of 1:1, the output shaft will rev with 1/4 of the RPM, but 4 times the torque of the input shaft. In contrast, power is conserved (minus some losses). And power is energy per time - transformed into the kinetic energy of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: Since your cars have a CVT where motor RPM is kept constant, the CVT will be set to the individual RPM of max. power for max. acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The car with more power will accelerate faster!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T14:43:47.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31706" CreationDate="2016-06-12T15:19:41.023" Score="4" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for someone to validate or disprove my opinion.  Here is a video of the issue.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjs8xtu0v9ikuov/IMG_3947.MOV?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjs8xtu0v9ikuov/IMG_3947.MOV?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prior owner was a smoker and used in-vent air freshers.  The blower motor was not making this sound until after I had the car for some time.  I think I went over a bump one day and it started making noise.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cdna.4imprint.com/prod/extras/100300/330264/700/1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://cdna.4imprint.com/prod/extras/100300/330264/700/1.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is one of these had fallen into the vent and the bump jostled it into the blower motor.  Does this sound probable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12567" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T18:53:43.473" Title="99 Corolla blower motor noise - possible cause?" Tags="|toyota|ac|fan|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31704" CreationDate="2016-06-12T16:00:38.060" Score="10" ViewCount="9087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of torque wrenches and a torque screwdriver that I've had for some years.  None has ever been recalibrated and although they haven't been abused and they seem to have good agreement among them, I read recently that one should check/recalibrate torque wrenches every couple of years.  These wrenches are fairly old (the youngest is at least 20 years old) and I'm not even sure I can locate the manuals for all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Where would one go to get a torque wrench calibrated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T15:42:16.230" Title="Where can I get my torque wrench calibrated?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31703" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:29:08.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any MAC or Snap-On truck/dealer has a universal &lt;em&gt;calibration&lt;/em&gt; tool that will check the calibration.  The issue is that if they are &quot;off&quot;, they will probably not have parts if needed, or perhaps the ability to adjust if the tool is not their brand or a similar popular style tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://anglerepair.com/calibration/&quot;&gt;AngleRepair&lt;/a&gt; will do it for $25 and some shipping if you can part with it for a while.  UPS it to them, they UPS it back with a sticker you can write on and impose your next scheduled cal date.  I'm not sponsoring them here; there are many others.  Google &quot;torque wrench calibration service&quot; and you will likely find an local industrial instrument shop that can do any number of recerts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm such a SnapOn junkie, my dealer sends me Xmas cards.  I never have a problem finding him for recals.  And to be honest, I can't remember when an adjustment was needed... although I treat my tools pretty carefully. (Better than I treat my girlfriend!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T18:34:43.807" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T18:34:43.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31665" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:35:13.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll stick my neck out and fly against convention. There's a great article here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've verified this method with a number of motorcycle and race engine tuners who all agree and it pretty much sums up what they do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tldr; warm up the engine gently, then give it a very thorough workout! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point is that you need the combustion pressure to push the piston rings to sit into the bore perfectly, then you get excellent, even compression, minimal blow by and a good engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T18:35:13.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31702" CreationDate="2016-06-12T18:47:00.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The squirrel cage has broken fin(s), or the motor bearing has gone (most likely on a '99), or the case has distorted -- all of which allow the unit to vibrate or slightly rub on a part of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the glovebox and plastic the kick panel underneath it, you can press various places on the housing and case to see if the noise changes... if it does, it's a good indication you need a new blower motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not an expensive or technically hard job, but hopefully you're young and agile, or have had some contortionist training.  I haven't, and I'm old...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other possibility is something loose, or the Cabin Air Filter is shot and loose (you may not have that option), but I strongly suspect you need a new blower.  They come with the motor and squirrel cage fan as an assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it's a broken air-freshener bit, because that noise wouldn't persist long... although it could break the plastic fan.  Whatever the case, the repair is identical, and you'll know if you need a new blower assembly when you take it apart.  I can't validate or disprove your opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T18:53:43.473" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T18:53:43.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31720" CreationDate="2016-06-12T19:52:56.003" Score="6" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please see the video of the problem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHJPoHPamjg&amp;amp;feature=em-upload_owner&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHJPoHPamjg&amp;amp;feature=em-upload_owner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very stumped to why this is like this all of a sudden&#xA;Ford Focus MK2.5 Strange Misfire Engine Light, ESP Light, Battery Light&#xA;Turn up sound to max to hear the misfire&#xA;ODB readout code P0336 - “A” circuit of the crankshaft position sensor has a range/performance error.&#xA;Self diagnostic read out: E196 - Invalid data for engine RP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery seems to operate at 14.1v when running and 12v not running&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misfires and other stuff ( Speedometer stops working) seem to happen after 5k revs. Not exclusive to that though as car will sometime shut off when driving very slowly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video you can see the speed counter dies first and then the battery and other lights come on temporarily but ESP stays on for some reason. Engine continues to drive(struggles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 23 seconds in the car nearly completely stops but my foot was completely down and it kept it going only just&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how to fix, if an exhaust clip would help you listen to the engine then I will post if you request&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19009" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T20:14:11.223" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:05:19.453" Title="What is wrong with my Ford Focus? Missfires and more!" Tags="|ford|focus|misfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T19:54:34.723" Score="3" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched my Turbo from the T25 Garrett to a 16g TDO5.  I have been having to get my car beyond 3500 RPM before boost actually begins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem or is this normal before boost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it kick in a lot sooner or am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I am doing incorrectly or do I need different sensors and other components to go along with the turbo swap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19010" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T21:30:46.277" LastActivityDate="2019-12-30T16:58:54.683" Title="97 Eclipse GST Turbo" Tags="|mitsubishi|turbocharger|eclipse|turbo-lag|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31710" CreationDate="2016-06-12T20:47:59.543" Score="10" ViewCount="10169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a car battery that I am trying to recharge. It measures 3.28v, and my charger is a Selmar Turbo 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the charger I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLAEg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLAEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the ammeter gauge that I found&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8GOu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8GOu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all I tried to charge the battery overnight and the current was about 0A. I left it overnight and came back the next afternoon, and the battery was hot to the touch, and the charger was cycling on and off, with the current about 4A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned off the charger and the battery was making a quiet hissing noise, like water in a pipe, and it made this noise for about 10 minutes, so I levered off a cover and there were some holes. The voltage was about 6v at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These holes were completely empty, and the battery had a strong smell, like sulfuric acid with these holes open. The battery must have been empty as it did not slosh about at all when I moved it. I filled the battery with deionised water and tried to charge it again after leaving it to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left it to charge for 3 hours, and the voltage is back down to 3v. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The charger goes up to about 12A on the ammeter gauge, which is the maximum, and then trips if I try to charge the battery on the High or Low setting at 12v, and High at 6v. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current at 6V on the low setting is about 6A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I completely destroyed the battery? Should I just buy a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about the battery, the label is filthy, but it's a 12V car battery and its sat for about 8 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T15:08:45.033" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T05:25:41.377" Title="I charged my car battery with no water in it" Tags="|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31709" CreationDate="2016-06-12T21:23:15.840" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is toast. Save yourself potential serious injury. Buy a new one. If the battery has been dead for eight months...it is pretty much a goner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T21:23:15.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-12T21:40:56.047" Score="6" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had spongy brakes and they replaced the master cylinder.  Now I have a soft brake pedal,  meaning they worked but the pedal goes down farther than it ever has.  What could be causing this, air in the line?  another leak?  didn't see a leak.  This is on a 06 chevy silverado crew cab 1500 2wd&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19012" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T11:16:00.250" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T11:16:00.250" Title="Brakes are soft" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31732" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:23:15.013" Score="1" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;While trying to start my RX7 all I hear is a click coming from the dash when I turn the key.  When I stop turning the key to start it I hear another click coming from a relay above the visor located near the moon roof controls (see picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is good and the engine does turn over freely by hand.  The car was broken into a couple times previously and I am wondering if maybe this could be some sort of theft lock prevention? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ideas out there whey I am unable to start my RX7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be nice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4jzB.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastEditorUserId="9982" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T15:19:28.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T16:00:17.347" Title="1988 RX7 not turning over" Tags="|electrical|starting|mazda|rx7|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31740" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:32:03.760" Score="4" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to reinstall a new Rotor and Stator onto my DL1000. I uninstalled the old parts over a year ago and haven't gotten around to the rebuild until this summer. I have some components that I do not recognize and need a bit of help identifying. I do have a PDF manual for the bike with over 500 pages so, if anyone can point me in the right direction I certainly would appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've done is to put the primary gears back in place along with the rotor and stator but I have not tightened up the parts because I'm not sure of the correct placement. I also noted that the starter module that is attached to the rotor is not flush in the back and there seems to be a bigger gap than I remember when taking the rotor assembly off of the crank. (any tips on the proper re-install of this assembly?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the rotor and stator, I've cleaned the plates and area. Should I be adding any lubricants to anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CddAD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CddAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following a basic rule of thumb I just put the two primary gears back in place from where I took them. Are there any special concerns that I should perform at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLY3f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLY3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to lube up these components before reinstalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qdSzx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qdSzx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed there is quite a gap between the rotor assembly and the back plate. From the back of the rotor, the starter component is not flush with the rotor. Should it be? Anyone able to point me to an image of the back of the rotor assembly? In fact, I seem to recall that the rotor assembly was very tightly attached to the back plate but now when reinstalling; the rotor assembly does not seem to be sticking to the back plate in the same way. I'd like to know what I am doing wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCXyH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCXyH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recognize this component. I can see an [-] (i-bar) - in step 10, which I believe goes in between the space but I would really like a reference to this part if there is one in the manual or if someone has an picture of it installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PFAk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PFAk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-5&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am putting in the replacement stator. I cannot seem to find a description of the type of bolts one should use in this component. I have my old picture but I am considering using new bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWEps.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWEps.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 7&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find information on the assembly of this component. Any pointers would be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiaFg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiaFg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-7&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recognize where the tube goes, any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NC6Fh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NC6Fh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 9&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another unrecognized component. If there is a part name or location in the manual please point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyWmx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyWmx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-9&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 10&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a number of assorted bolts and haven't been able to identify where everything goes. I haven't been able to spot these in the manual and would appreciate any pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOU8H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOU8H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;step-10&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastEditorUserId="4124" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T12:49:56.817" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:19:03.930" Title="How to Properly Reinstall Rotor and Stator on Suzuki DL1000" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|installation|stator|dl1000|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:38:12.867" Score="7" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Ford F250 and I have an extremely difficult time filling the tanks at gas stations with the newer rubber boots on the gas nozzles. The physical shape of the older pickup truck gas filler opening is just not designed to work well with the newer gas pump nozzles. I have to pull back the boot with my hand and hold the lever at about 30% of full-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any products that I can use to make filling up easier? The only idea I've got is to buy a large external gas tank and fill up from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the truck in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kyh8K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kyh8K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gas filler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T11:14:53.940" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T23:21:41.520" Title="How can I fill the tank on my older pickup truck?" Tags="|ford|fuel-tank|f-250|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:42:04.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question, though it is probably way too broad. Honda claims that there has never been a warranty claim against their VTEC systems - as in, the solenoids and variable valve/timing system is quite reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't at all to say that these engines don't fail - of course they do - however they have a very good track record for reliability &lt;em&gt;if maintained correctly&lt;/em&gt;. However gaskets, rings, bearings etc can all still fail as with any other engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any car with 300,000kms on it is going to be due for repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, however. An awful lot of civics get given VTEC badges when they don't have variable timing. You should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; look beyond the sticker on the outside of the car. Look under the hood, look at the engine, do some research on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T00:42:04.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31711" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:52:40.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's air in the lines from the sounds of it, likely from them not correctly bleeding the system. An air bubble in the system will compress before the rest of the fluid in the lines, thus not actuating the brake callipers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the tools to bleed your brakes at home, you should take it back to the workshop and get them to asap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T00:52:40.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31707" CreationDate="2016-06-13T04:05:19.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first questions for you?  Isn't that a new car, still under factory warranty? What did the dealership tell you?  (What year is the car?  what is the mileage?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, that sure looks like a wiring issue to me, based on that tachometer dropout.  Loose ground? Intermittent short or disconnect to the crank (and / or cam) position sensor?  Note the crank (and / or camshaft) position sensors are way easy to troubleshoot.  You take a screwdriver and move it near the sensor back and forth and read ohm / resistance at the input to the engine control computer.  Its quite easy to see when something is amiss.  My guess is there is a loose wire somewhere, that is impacted by drive cycle (and G force...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible you have a bad sensor, but those things are crazy reliable. There really isn't much to go wrong with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sure start with the wire directly to the position sensor, but it would also be a good thing to check all grounds in the system, particularly those that feed the instrument cluster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another defect observed (in my experience) is a &quot;pinout&quot;.  A pinout happens when the electrical pin (or socket) isn't fully seated in the plastic hardshell connector and only makes intermittent connection. A plastic hardshell connection is used to join wire harness pieces together, or to join a harness to sender or other electrical unit. Remember each of those is wires is hand placed when the wiring harness is being built, and although extremely rare, this sometimes can happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a wiring diagram for the vehicle. Examine every connection, open it, use a flashlight and examine each and every pin and socket contained within. You will be able to see a pin or socket not fully seated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you'll want to use that wiring diagram to examine each and every ground in the car.  I suspect there are 8 or 10 of them on this car.  Pay particular attention to the two ground screws for the instrument panel inside the car.  I'm guessing somewhere on both left and right A Pillar sheet metal, just inside the lower door hinge area.   Ensure the ground screw is tight and that nothing seems amiss.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:05:19.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T06:45:32.683" Score="2" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace my 100 amp hour lead acid battery electrolyte, but i'm not sure the amount required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make it right the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if someone could please tell me how much apprx electrolyte  required for the common 100 amp hour 12v lead acid starter battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19018" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T06:45:32.683" Title="how much electrolyte is usually used on a regular 100 amp lead acid battery" Tags="|battery|starter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T08:46:21.987" Score="3" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a used VW Golf IV, 98, 1.4. I am facing a really strange issue the last few days. When I turn my hazzards on, every bulb works well and on time. When I signal left it works too. The problem is when I try to signal right. None of the right blinkers light up, my dashboard right blinker indicator stays off and the flashing sound is faster than normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19021" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T11:19:51.367" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T11:21:01.547" Title="WV Golf IV '98 - Right side blinkers not working on signal" Tags="|electrical|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:35:08.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honda used VTEC for two applications:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel economy. For example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F_engine#F18B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;F18B engine&lt;/a&gt; with peak power of 136 shp. Rev limit of about 6000 rpm. Sometimes called i-VTEC.&#xA;Performance is decent but not spectacular (many have low torque at low rpm so you need to shift down for overtaking). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Performance. For example the F20C engine from the S2000, with ~230 shp. Rev limit 9000 rpm. Cars using performance VTEC are often called Type-R. &#xA;Rocketships, again with power concentrated at high rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either application could be in the Honda you're looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda has a good reputation for reliability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:35:08.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31711" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:42:06.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;went back and they bled the brakes again after telling me they were good twice and now they work like they did before the master cylinder went bad.  Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19022" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:42:06.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31665" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:42:14.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is similar to RemarkLima's answer.  Figured I'd list the steps I follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start the engine. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;As it is heating up, rev it through the entire rev range a couple times.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep an eye on coolant, temperature, oil pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;set timing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go out for a drive. Get it into top gear and go WOT a bit.  Do this about 5 times for couple seconds each.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go home and change the oil. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Afterwards, take it easy on the engine for the next 1000 miles.  no WOT.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As was mentioned in Fred's answer, always use non-synthetic oil for the break-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:42:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:51:54.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Acura Integra with the DOHC VTEC engine (B18C1).  Just passed 350,000 miles.  Still runs good, I take it to the red line at least once a week when its nice out.  If you maintain it, it will run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:51:54.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31722" CreationDate="2016-06-13T11:21:01.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though the turn signal switch has gone bad. The contacts inside the switch are probably just worn out. Not sure on your Golf, but I believe these are pretty easy to purchase and to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T11:21:01.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2016-06-13T12:29:37.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a about a 1/2&quot; tear on the outer wall of a brand new tire.The rim had a scratch, thinking a a curb cut the flap of rubber. Used Gorilla super glue, using latex gloves, squirted a dab of glue into cut, pressed the rubber together. Excess glue created a seal around the cut. Tire looks new, flap is secure. Got lucky the tire wasn't cut deeper so no air leak. I'm sure rubber cement would also do the trick or any rubber sealant. The super glue is very quick. I'll keep an eye on it, but appears to be a solid fix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19026" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T12:29:37.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T12:29:46.087" Score="3" ViewCount="11788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need of some assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a coolant pressure on my 1.8 16v clio. (Renault), coolant, cooling-system, overheating  (car maintenance)&#xA;In that when left to idle and engine gets up to temp and when revved the car will hold a lot of pressure in the main rad pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the thermostat, new rad, new header tank cap, new water pump, re-bleed numerous times the coolant system, bypassed the turbo and heater matrix. I have no mixing of water in the oil and no mixing of oil in the coolant, I have not lost any coolant other than when I open the cap to relieve some pressure I loose a little. I have also replaced the head gasket and had the head skimmed. And torqued all down in accordance with the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still having the same coolant pressure issue  and am rather stumped as to what the cause could be as clearly combustion gases are getting into the coolant system somehow.  I have done a compression test also on all 4 cylinders  and have a range of 148-150psi across all 4 which again I am happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now from cold the car is fine the pressure seems to only build up once warm?  If I was to leave the car running for an hour or the fan will kick in and out nicely but the top rad hose is overly hard. If I was to hold the revs say at 2500 rpm for a few minutes the top rad pipe looks like it will explode and thus unable to use the car until sorted.&#xA;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19027" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T13:46:21.837" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T10:09:33.170" Title="Coolant pressure issue" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|car|overheating|renault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:12:57.733" Score="2" ViewCount="5697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Tahoe with 150,000 miles. When I accelerate from a dead stop I hear a ticking noise from under the vehicle. It is not present when idling or deccelerating. If I accelerate slowly the ticking is not present. Only when I give it a little more gas. Any insight would be most appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19029" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T17:11:35.947" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T19:51:09.330" Title="Ticking noise during acceleration" Tags="|noise|acceleration|tahoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31729" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:24:44.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have replaced the radiator cap, then there should not be excessive pressure in the cooling system.  The system is designed to hold 16PSI.  If it does exceed this pressure, it will release pressure into the overflow tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed, not allowing coolant to flow through the upper radiator hose.  Once the engine warms up, the thermostat opens, allowing coolant to pass through the hose at a high rate.  The coolant also expands causing higher pressure in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for combustion gases getting into your cooling system.  If there is a passage between your coolant and the combustion chamber, your exhaust would be smoky, smell like coolant, and you would have bubbles in your coolant.  It would be hard to check the coolant since it only happens hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this hose is deforming (expanding like a balloon), then you should replace the hose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the car overheating?  Has the coolant boiled over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:24:44.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31712" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:00:17.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the reason why it wouldn't turn over, it turns out the clutch safety switch was not being fully depressed when I pressed the pedal down and that was stopping power from getting to the starter. I pressed the switch down manually and it was able to turn over no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being my first time working on an Rx-7 when i found out about the clutch cutoff switch I looked under the pedal and tinkered with what i found out to be the cruise control cutoff switch, botch switches look very much alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So For any future reference, there are two switches that are triggered when you press the clutch pedal, one switch closes up, and when you press the pedal, and one switch gets pressed and opens up allowing the power to go to the starter. That switch is located more towards the firewall by the upper part of the clutch pedal near the master cylinder, that switch is the clutch safety switch which looks very similar to, but is not to be confused with the cruise control cutoff switch (correct me if I'm wrong) which is located towards the font/upper part of the clutch pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9982" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T16:00:17.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:35:18.433" Score="4" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhaust , intake &amp;amp; the other one at the bottom are lined up when I start after a full rotation they are not, what am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19031" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T16:35:18.433" Title="Timing chain for a sunfire" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-06-17T07:46:35.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32052" CreationDate="2016-06-13T16:44:17.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Ford F250 and the tire size for this truck has been dead for a while (31x10.50R16.5LT). Is it completely necessary to replace the wheels to get new tires for my truck? I'd like to keep the truck as close to original as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T22:10:02.697" Title="Can I use a different diameter tire size on my current wheels?" Tags="|ford|tires|wheels|f-250|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31738" CreationDate="2016-06-13T17:38:45.433" Score="4" ViewCount="11850" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister has a 2009 Honda Pilot that's got some issues with the electrical system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery frequently drains overnight (every other day or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; (several hours or more) the car will start the next morning. When driving not much (like yesterday about 10 miles) the next day the battery was so dead it couldn't even unlock the car doors. Medium timed drives may or may not start the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They took it to an Autozone and the guy plugged in some type of computer that said it was the alternator. However, we just started it this morning and my voltmeter read 13.5-13.7 volts. It was reading about 13.7 volts for about 10 minutes and then it dropped to about 13.5. Though running the engine steady at 2,000 rpms made the volts stay at a steady 13.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've been having intermittent problems with the air conditioning. At lower speeds it seems to work fine, but at higher speeds it stops blowing cold air. Occasionally when they turn off the AC condenser it will actually sometimes blow colder air. They took it to someone who pulled the dash off and found that the expansion valve(?) was stuck and was causing freezing (literally, ice inside the dash) to occur. They think that problem has kind of gone away since coming to much warmer climate (Arkansas, we've been in the 90ºF mostly), but they weren't sure if that was related to the electric. They were told that alternator problems could cause issues with AC &amp;amp; other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that the alternator is causing the battery drain? If not, what other things could we check? The battery is 2-3 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No lights are left on at night :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10932" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T00:42:54.600" Title="What could be causing battery drain on a 2009 Honda Pilot?" Tags="|honda|electrical|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31734" CreationDate="2016-06-13T17:39:25.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;looking at tire rack.  Searched by rim (wheel) size.  Came up with 3 results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.75R16.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;9.5R16.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;37x12.5R16.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 9.5R16.5 looks somewhat close in size at 30.6x9.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&amp;amp;tireModel=Transforce+HT&amp;amp;partnum=950R65THT&amp;amp;vehicleSearch=false&amp;amp;fromCompare1=yes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&amp;amp;tireModel=Transforce+HT&amp;amp;partnum=950R65THT&amp;amp;vehicleSearch=false&amp;amp;fromCompare1=yes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T17:39:25.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31736" CreationDate="2016-06-13T18:12:11.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are too many possibilities when it comes to draw. The compressor clutch could be staying on, alternator voltage regulator, a glovebox light, radio, computer etc...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to need to use an inductive amp probe and a multimeter to voltage drop the fuses. I'd avoid disconnecting battery terminals to hook an ammeter inline with the battery ground. This can sometimes cause the draw to disappear while testing. Make sure the battery is fully charged 12.5v or better, before testing for draw or it can lead to false positives.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13.5-7v on the alternator is kind of weak I'd expect 14v or better. You may want to have the charging system load tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T20:48:45.883" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T20:48:45.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T18:28:28.513" Score="1" ViewCount="2116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the timing belt replaced on my 2005 Chrysler. I drove for a week, and it appears the battery died. I used jumper cables to start the car, but as soon as  I took the cables off the engine died. Anyone know what could cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19033" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T18:45:07.253" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T06:50:43.137" Title="Timing belt replaced, engine dies after jump starting" Tags="|battery|alternator|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31713" CreationDate="2016-06-13T19:46:52.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a lot of questions.  I won't be able to answer them all.  I will say I have this motor sitting in my shop and have owned a few of these,  TL/SV based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I be adding any lubricants to anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, use assembly lube.  It's not a disaster if you don't.  Assembly lube would typically apply connecting rod and main bearings but it won't hurt you to use it when you put your clutch basket on your primary shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Following a basic rule of thumb I just put the two primary gears back in place from where I took them. Are there any special concerns that I should perform at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Validate that they don't bind during operation and that they are bottomed on their respective shafts.  As well, make sure you get ALL thrust washers in their appropriate locations and order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to lube up these components before reinstalling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lube the shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I noticed there is quite a gap between the rotor assembly and the back plate. From the back of the rotor, the starter component is not flush with the rotor. Should it be? Anyone able to point me to an image of the back of the rotor assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not recognize this component. I can see an [-] (i-bar) - in step 10, which I believe goes in between the space but I would really like a reference to this part if there is one in the manual or if someone has an picture of it installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those components are related to your hydraulic clutch.  The rod goes through the primary shaft and pushes the pressure plate away from the clutch basket.  The component with three mounting bolts is the hydraulic clutch housing and piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am putting in the replacement stator. I cannot seem to find a description of the type of bolts one should use in this component. I have my old picture but I am considering using new bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get OEM bolts.  They are case hardened M4's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am trying to find information on the assembly of this component. Any pointers would be welcome?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's your master cylinder again.  The line attached is for the brake fluid.  Ensure all the surfaces are clean.  The master cylinder will fit into the case. If you clean all the chain lube gunk around it you will see the mount bolt holes better, perhaps, and see how the device lines up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't recognize where the tube goes, any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not a tube.  It's a bushing.  It could go inside the inner clutch basket and ride on your primary shaft but the outside of it doesn't seem worn so that may be a red herring.  I don't know how much you have disassembled so it's difficult to determine where the component may have originated from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another unrecognized component. If there is a part name or location in the manual please point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is an external component.  You can tell from the bolt heads.  Those are Suzuki external case cover bolts used on the outside of their engines.  The mount you have there may hold another component into place.  I would hazard a guess this piece mounts to the outside of your clutch cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a number of assorted bolts and haven't been able to identify where everything goes. I haven't been able to spot these in the manual and would appreciate any pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impossible to say.  Need to see the state of reassembly.  I do recognize some gas tank mount bolts, internal allen head (case hardened)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you get an official Suzuki Shop manual for the DL1000.  As well, if you are having trouble finding a manual for the DL1000 you can use a manual for a 1997-2003 TL1000 or the 2003-current SV1000 manual.  The components within those engines are exactly the same as yours.  You will be quite happy you procured an official shop manual if you do.  Hope this was helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T19:19:03.930" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T19:19:03.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31739" CreationDate="2016-06-13T19:56:59.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the car sat for a year, it is likely the battery is dead. If the battery terminals are corroded, they could also be preventing the alternator from charging the battery. I would try starting the car with a known good battery, and/or taking the dead battery to a parts store to be tested, as you may still be able to recharge and use it. Next time you park the car for an extended period of time, consider using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00068XCQU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;battery tender&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery does not fix it, it is probably the alternator as you first suspected. Check all fuses and connections between the battery, alternator, and ground points. If there are no problems, take the alternator to the parts store to be tested. It is not unheard of for 'new' alternators to be bad as well, so if you need a new one, have it tested before installing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T22:12:16.847" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:12:16.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T19:58:41.503" Score="1" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;2014 Renault. I bought it almost new and didn't have this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the heat is Off I can hear a rattling/vibration noise that comes from the inside of the driver side's air vent. It doesn't happen when heat is On.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea of what the cause of this is. It only appears when I'm driving, and it intensifies on rugged asphalt and streets that are on bad conditions. I don't hear this noise from the other vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to know what this issue could be?, should I fix it by myself or take the car to the workshop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19034" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T20:25:16.477" Title="Rattling noise inside driver side air vent" Tags="|noise|heater|vibration|vents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:09:56.300" Score="3" ViewCount="2141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Polo Playa 1.4. I have replaced the pressure plate, flywheel, clutch cable of the car but unable to get clutch. The cable is pulling up the lever attached on the gearbox in order to shift gears but it does not shift, only when the car is switched off it does change gears. The pedal is connected to the cable so its not that, so what can be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19035" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T20:22:34.790" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T14:08:39.793" Title="Car won't shift after clutch replacement" Tags="|vw|clutch|car|polo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31743" CreationDate="2016-06-13T20:20:30.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the cable is out of adjustment, preventing the clutch pedal from disengaging the clutch plate from the flywheel. This would allow you to shift when the engine is off, but make it difficult to shift when the engine is running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check to see if the cable is broken or binding anywhere. If not, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wcAn-BcBfY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;follow these procedures&lt;/a&gt; (youtube link) for readjusting the clutch cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T21:16:17.140" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T21:16:17.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31743" CreationDate="2016-06-13T21:14:30.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;as this is a mechanical linkage and not hydraulic it is likely that the cable (being new) needs to be adjusted up. Try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19025" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T21:14:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31748" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:28:39.233" Score="8" ViewCount="14427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand battery maintainers, like those offered under the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00068XCQU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battery Tender&lt;/a&gt;® brand, are used to keep batteries charged for long term storage, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000H94F7S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trickle chargers&lt;/a&gt; are.... also used to charge batteries? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between these two devices, how do they work, what are their applications, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;How does each device effect the long term life of a battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T21:36:47.570" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T21:36:47.570" Title="Battery maintainer vs trickle charger" Tags="|electrical|battery|long-term-storage|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31747" CreationDate="2016-06-14T00:15:26.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is smarts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs charged. After it's done charging it will shut off and monitor the battery state. When it sees the battery get to something like 80% (depends on the tender model) it will charge the battery back up to full and wait again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tenders are better but more expensive. Tenders charge the battery only when needed; this reduces the wear and tear on the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trickle chargers wear on the battery more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flooded lead acid batteries are strange creatures. They have a fairly high self discharge rate compared to other chemistries. This means that even sitting on a shelf these will die in 6 months to a year depending on size. They are also filled with water which gives them some strange properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An automotive flooded lead acid battery (12v) has 6 separate cells inside. Nominally each cell is 2.1V giving a total nominal battery voltage of 12.6v. These cells can and do fall out of balance meaning that one cell could be lower or higher than the rest. As a unbalanced battery charges, some cells will fully charge before others. The battery has an interesting mechanism to keep the fully charged cells from overcharging: it boils off the water. This isn't like a tea kettle whistling but an accelerated evaporation. When the battery is fully charged then all the cell begin to boil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These properties allows the battery to work relatively well in an automotive charging system environment. Because vehicle have a relatively unmanaged charging system the battery holds up well only requiring occasional water top offs. Also batteries like sealed lead acid, absorbed glass mat and gel cell make bad batteries for vehicles because it is bad to take them to 100% charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the discharge rate of the battery a trickle charger is meant to off set the discharge rate plus some. If that plus some is large enough the battery will sit in that boil state indefinitely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tender will bring the battery up to full and stop charging, minimizing the time the battery spends in the boil state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both chargers wear on the battery by eating up charge/discharge cycles. Even though the trickle charges always keeps the battery full, the fact that it always charges wears on the battery just as much as charging and discharging the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T09:37:10.513" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T09:37:10.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:30:08.803" Score="3" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to supplement the inadequate-by-design alternator BIT circuits in my 98 Avalon (alternator failures have stranded us; no instrument panel warnings of charging failure), I'd like to either monitor the battery bus at the cigarette lighter (possibly a homegrown device to activate a piezo or flash an LED) or monitor via the OBD2 port with smartphone app alarms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at a list of obd2 fault codes and didn't see one for battery bus voltage. I found the list via a google search and it was on toyotanation.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bluetooth and an app where you could set alarm for a voltage threshold is the general idea (say 13V or less for 5 or more seconds while the engine is running). The obd2 scanner would have to go to sleep and not drain the battery as I'd like to leave it plugged in 24/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is battery bus voltage available via OBD2 scanners for the 98 Avalon? Has anybody had success using an obd2 scanner for full-time engine performance monitoring of an old Toyota, including battery bus voltage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18988" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T17:09:55.297" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T17:09:55.297" Title="Is battery bus voltage available via OBD2 scanners for 98 Avalon?" Tags="|toyota|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:49:10.177" Score="4" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched around and found questions that may be related but aren't quite the same problem as what I have, so I'm hoping you can give me some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex with 185k miles. Within the past year, the A/C cycles on and off. I turn it and the fan on and it works for a few minutes blowing cold air, then it starts blowing hot air. If I shut the A/C off for a few minutes then turn it back on, it usually blows cold air again for a few minutes before blowing hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken it to two separate places, and each of them flushed the system and refilled the refrigerant and claimed that it worked again, but this has not been true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have expertise enough to change my own oil and whatnot, but probably not enough to fix this problem on my own unless the solution was simple. Is there any advice you can give me that I could take to a mechanic to get them looking in the right place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18999" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T15:48:55.410" Title="A/C Cycles On and Off in '02 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T03:10:07.233" Score="5" ViewCount="6628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realized I had no brake pads. I was grinding metal on metal so I changed the rotors and put new brake pads on but still when I drive it for a little ways you can see black powder on the rims from the brakes. When you stop to look there is smoke coming from the front brake area. The brake lines are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 1995 Yukon 1500 GMC with a lift and 33 inch tires on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to replace to stop the brake pads from rubbing constantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19041" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T13:32:44.990" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T17:54:00.637" Title="Brakes Smoking After Driving" Tags="|brakes|heat|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31739" CreationDate="2016-06-14T06:50:43.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience batteries that are not regularly charged will be dead after about 3 months. A car battery after sitting idle for a year most likely not accept a charge. Time to replace the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T06:50:43.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31836" CreationDate="2016-06-14T07:02:56.033" Score="7" ViewCount="111599" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of lately my car started to make thumping/knocking sounds whilst driving over speed bumps (at regular speed)&#xA;I drive a 2001 renault laguna 1.8 16v with about 218,000km (about 135500 miles) on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't happen while driving on flat road, i can only hear it when driving over speed bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it kind of sounds like someone is giving a mean knock on a door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does this mean that my rear suspension is bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I took a look at the back of my car (even removed the wheels) And couldnt really pull a conclusion myself. I took it to my local garage and they told me the shockbreakers(absorbers) were busted. They have been fixed and the sound is now gone. Thanks for all the suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16193" LastEditorUserId="16193" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T07:01:34.153" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T00:51:27.923" Title="Thumping/Knocking noise coming from the rear (suspension?)" Tags="|noise|suspension|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T07:53:01.833" Score="7" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a clicking / tapping noise coming from the inlet manifold on my 2002 Citroen Saxo VTR (1.6 8v)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have manually adjusted the valve clearances (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL2wWCB-6mQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; to hear what the engine sounded like before the valve clearance adjustment) however there is a clicking noise which seems to be coming from the inlet manifold from behind the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hear the clicking noise in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLU6CcvD7a4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. When holding the idle actuator valve I believe I can feel it moving/vibrating at the same speed as the clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unplugged the idle actuator valve and ran the car for a few seconds however there was still the clicking noise. I have read some posts on Saxo forums which mention a similar sound, saying it could be the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19042" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T00:26:24.490" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T15:08:40.993" Title="2002 Citroen Saxo - Clicking / tapping noise from inlet manifold" Tags="|fuel-system|noise|citroen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T08:06:57.643" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a problem with my cooling water leaking out through but there's no external leakage could it be that there air in the system because I try to replace the thermostat but still leaking through the radiator cap if it get hot what could it be or what must I do again. its Chevrolet cruise 1.8 2011 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T19:22:24.447" Title="cooling system problem throwing water out when its hot" Tags="|coolant-reservoir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2016-06-14T08:16:51.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you decide to keep driving on this tire, don't use superglue on that rubber flap. When superglue sets it becomes rigid and brittle. The tire will flex a bit when you drive, and break the glue bond in a short time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, use the rubber glue from a bike tire puncture repair kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T08:16:51.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="920" CreationDate="2016-06-14T09:31:49.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;DT ik....NO..And always rotate your tires and never put a donut tire on the front if its a front wheel drive or back of its rear wheel drive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19043" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T09:31:49.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31760" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:29:15.370" Score="11" ViewCount="27274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short my front wheel took a hit and the rim is now slightly bent. Now, since this is a forged aluminium wheel, replacing it costs the best part of 1500EUR. Being on a budget I thought of having it fixed, by bending it back in shape. There are people out there who do these types of jobs regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I asked around I got controversial replies. Some say it should be fine to bend it back. Other say that the material is now compresssed and that bending it back into shape will leave microscopic gaps of air between the aluminium molecules, i.e. microfissures, causing the rim to bend, crack, break, or explode if stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to fix a bent motorbike wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T14:21:22.923" Title="Is it safe to fix a bent motorbike wheel?" Tags="|motorcycle|wheels|repair|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:37:19.210" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixing a bent motorcycle wheel is situational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on a 125 to 200cc motorcycle using it for commuting purpose and will be driving under the speed limit, I would not be worried and its absolutely fine to reuse a bent wheel. provided the bend was minimal , if its extensive then changing would be a wiser option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on a 600 to 1000cc super sports(anything capable of going more than 100mph) , I would not recommend you fixing it and it will be safer to replace it since you do not know what can happen at high speeds. You might hit another pot hole at the same spot , it can be extremely dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T10:37:19.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31751" CreationDate="2016-06-14T11:16:19.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;could be the high pressure sensor of your a/c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when turned on the pressure in your a/c system builds up towards a couple of bar and then the sensor kicks in, because the pressure is too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is your airco fan spinning? when stationary the fan should be starting after a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;had the same problem on my golf mk4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19044" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T11:16:19.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31709" CreationDate="2016-06-14T11:18:49.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there truly is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; liquid in it, you cannot charge it.  Attempting to will have no effect.  But if there is some, and you try to charge too fast, heat and explosion hazards are produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19045" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T11:18:49.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31709" CreationDate="2016-06-14T15:39:48.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;strong smell, like sulfuric acid&quot; &lt;em&gt;is in fact sulfuric acid,&lt;/em&gt; which is the acid component in a lead-acid battery.  If it's coming out strongly enough for you to smell, the battery is dangerous.  Recycle it and get a new one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12299" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T15:39:48.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31751" CreationDate="2016-06-14T15:48:55.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C compressor has a clutch that engages when the A/C needs to run. It could be that the clutch/compressor is bad. You can verify this by looking at the end of the A/C compressor: within the pully wheel there is a disc that moves independently of the pully. I believe it should rotate most of the time when the system is cooling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T15:48:55.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31752" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:19:33.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake dust on the rims is normal, although not usually after a short trip. It sounds like you probably have a stuck caliper. Did you replace the pads and rotors yourself? If so, did you lubricate the caliper pins? If not, get some caliper lube (the pads I usually buy come with a foil pouch of it, not sure if all do) and use it liberally on the pins. Remove the pads and slide the caliper back and forth to distribute the lube. Then re-install the pads and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:19:33.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14821" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:34:00.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this doesn't relate to the reassembly process, that's been covered in the other answer by Paul. However most of the time, the rear sprocket is not physically attached to the wheel. They are two separate pieces which have rubber inserts between the metal &quot;teeth&quot;. The rubber inserts are there for dampening torque from the motor if you let the clutch out too fast or drop the throttle quickly. If the sprocket were bolted directly to the wheel, anytime you applied or removed power, the difference in torque load being applied could be great enough to cause the tire to break free from the the riding surface unexpectedly, which depending in when it happens, could be catastrophic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as those rubber inserts are still pliable and not degrading, they should be fine. They are a consumable part and relatively inexpensive to replace. You will get a smoother power delivery to the rear wheel with new inserts if the old ones are getting hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more concerned about the condition of your rear sprocket. The valleys between the teeth should be circular and the angles of the side of the teeth should be the same on both sides. Based on the picture you posted, your sprocket looks rather worn; I would recommend replacing the front and rear sprockets and the chain. Here's what a new front/rear sprocket should look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3zeBl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3zeBl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19049" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:34:00.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31708" CreationDate="2016-06-14T16:52:01.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TDO5 16g flows a lot more air than a T25 (520cfm vs. 405, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Turbo%20Chart%20Mitsubishi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; ), so you should expect it to be laggy. On the plus side, once you get higher in the power band, you should be making more power. If you haven't upgraded your fuel injectors (and possibly your fuel pump) you should keep a close watch on your A/F ratio, as if you exceed your injectors' flow rate you'll run lean and that's not a good thing. You can probably find some good advice on some Eclipse-specific forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T16:52:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31754" CreationDate="2016-06-14T17:07:43.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that could be causing the knocking sound from the rear suspension. My first guess was worn out bushings allowing metal-to-metal contact, broken sway bar end-links, or worn out shock mounts (top or bottom). If you can, pop the rear tire off and inspect the suspension mounts for cracked rubber or worn out parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are multiple knocks accompanied by excessive bouncing from the rear of the vehicle, then I would agree with user3188168's comment that the shocks are likely blown out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T17:07:43.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31756" CreationDate="2016-06-14T19:22:24.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the time to fill it up with coolant, turn the heat on max, and bleed the air out of the system. A spill free funnel makes it easier.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://revlimiter.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSC_1249.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://revlimiter.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSC_1249.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radiator cap could be bad.  The cap is probably rated for 15 psi and if that went bad water could leak out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12567" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T19:22:24.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27926" CreationDate="2016-06-14T19:59:11.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a regulator fault. I sell these alternators daily, and we cannot get the regulator as a spare part (well, not here in NZ, anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator has a feedback terminal to the ECU. If it does it again, give the alternator connector a clean and see if it goes away. If it does, the issue is a loose connection. If it doesn't, then the issue is internal and you're up for a new unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the other lights come on, is that the ECU recognizes that these items may fail if the battery is not fully charged. As the report is not coming back from the alternator to say that it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; charged, the ECU flags a fault on those items as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the above assumes that the battery is in good condition. As the car is less than a year old, it would be pretty odd if the battery is faulty. &#xA;A proper load test and off-vehicle charge should clear the battery of guilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When should you swap the regulator versus swapping the entire alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know what has damaged the regulator in the first place and it has been fixed. If, for instance, the rotor has a short circuit and is drawing too high a current, the new regulator will fail also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is a major job to extract the alternator for repair. If it's a 3 hour workshop job to get the unit out, you don't want to do that twice. I believe the Honda is not that hard, so it's really a call to be made from your wallet ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T20:06:23.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T20:06:23.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T20:13:11.320" Score="6" ViewCount="2863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a VW Golf 1.9 TDi 55 plate MK VI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the door is CLOSED (with the ignition on) :&#xA;The mirrors do not adjust,&#xA;the windows do not open,&#xA;the fuel flap does not open and&#xA;the child door lock does not activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the door is OPEN (with the ignition on) :&#xA;The mirrors adjust,&#xA;the windows open,&#xA;the fuel flap opens and&#xA;the child door lock activates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when locking the car with the fob&#xA;it locks three doors and the boot then 2 seconds later the alarm goes off.&#xA;Disarming the alarm with the fob switches off the alarm&#xA;The drivers door can then be locked with the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It means the car can be locked but not alarmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These issues may not be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas please ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19051" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T08:12:22.773" Title="VW Golf electrics problem with door closed" Tags="|electrical|power-windows|alarm|mirrors|central-locking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31742" CreationDate="2016-06-14T20:25:16.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in the comments, you can try looking down the vent with a flashlight to see if the object is visible. On the off chance the object is made of ferrous material, you can get a telescoping magnetic grabber tool for fairly cheap at a hardware store and try sticking it down the vent. There are also small claw style grabbers if the magnet doesn't work. Otherwise, you will likely need to remove some trim to access the inside of the vent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get to it from above, there is a chance the debris is lodged in or near the cabin air filter housing, which would make it much easier to get to. I'm not sure your specific model, but I'm sure you can find procedures to access (and replace since you're in there, they cost ~12 USD) the filter by entering 'cabin air filter renault blahblah turbo' into your favorite search engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T20:25:16.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-06-14T20:42:59.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds a lot like the door switch on the drivers door is broken in a way that it gives the reverse indication of what's actually true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things you can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perform the same tests that you have listed, but open and close the passenger or one of the rear doors instead of the drivers door. I have a feeling they will work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you have the Haynes or Chilton manuals for your car? If you do, check the wiring diagram, and see where the door switch wiring terminates. Check what the passenger door sensor reports when open and closed, then see what the drivers door reports when open and closed. I have a feeling they will be different. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the reason the alarm goes off is that it thinks that driver door is open when it's actually closed. Try setting the alarm with the drivers door open, and see if it sets properly without the false alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair would be to find out why they are different. How old is the car? How many miles on it? If it's very old, perhaps the wiring had insulation crumble on it and it's shorting somewhere. If it's a newer car I'm thinking the door switch itself is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case you have a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T20:48:09.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T20:48:09.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31714" CreationDate="2016-06-14T23:07:45.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/filler-neck-seal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; are the correct items, but you could find/make some kind of insert to hold the nozzle in place? I supposed you could also cut the filler neck from a car in the scrap yard and adapt it to your truck, but I imagine you don't want to stray too far from the OEM setup (or if it is even legal to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T23:21:41.520" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T23:21:41.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31570" CreationDate="2016-06-14T23:28:49.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what Ben said (in a comment to my original question), I wet sanded it with 1500 grit, and then used a buffing/cutting compound (Meguiar's ultimate compound) and a LOT of elbow grease to buff it smooth.  It still doesn't quite have the gloss of the original paint job, but definitely an improvement from before.  It's noticeably less matte, and actually has some gloss to it now. It would have probably looked a little better (and more even) if I used an orbital buffer, but I didn't have one available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As SteveRacer mentioned, it may also have looked better had I wet sanded it to smooth it out right after painting, but I didn't want to paint it all over again to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows my newer results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcpM7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mcpM7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15404" LastEditorUserId="15404" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T23:38:27.367" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T23:38:27.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2016-06-15T00:08:37.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked at a shop that repaired fuel tanks and this is what we did.  No cutting corners, each step depends on the last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop had a fancy caustic soda tub and some of the techs would call that an acid bath, but we used this on very few tanks.  Mostly small, well constructed, steel motorcycle tanks.  This is what we did for the other tanks that were not aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emptied and pressure washed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried with a large butane torch on low setting, wire brush  mounting areas, around seams or other likely areas.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By now you should have an idea if the tank is repairable.  If it is, blast with glass beads.  Make sure the tank can withstand the glass beads - a healthy tank can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We repaired pinhole leaks, pitting from rust, reinforced seams, etc.. with a lead solder.  Max size of a single hole... about a penny or dime in diameter. Use some small pieces of metal for reinforcing, if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean flux off and prep for liner by sealing any vents or tubes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place tank in the water test tub.  Pressure test with just a pound or two of air, any more than that could misshape the tank.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start liner process.  We used Red Kote and air dried... sometimes it would take 3-5 days per tank.  Very simple process, pour just enough liner in, to coat the side of the tank and let dry.  Turn and repeat every few hours and take your time - Red Kote is thick and slow moving. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guys would thin the liner for the first coat, but that was not how I was taught.  I think the results from chains and rocks would be too inconsistent.  About once a year we would get a tank from some guy who put rocks in it and it takes extra labor to get that stuff out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12567" LastEditorUserId="12567" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T04:14:38.897" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T04:14:38.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31736" CreationDate="2016-06-15T00:22:48.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;an easy way to check current draw without an amp meter or any tools:  go to the car after dark. pull and replace each of the fuses, 1 at a time.  Watch for any kind of spark.  If there is a spark then that circuit is drawing power.  It could be one thing or a combination of multiple things.  Another possibility could be bad diodes in the alternator, which would not show up this way, but may spark if the alternator wire is disconnected.  The battery could be bad also. To check it, you could disconnect the ground connection as soon as you shut the vehicle off, then reconnect in the morning and see if it starts - that may confirm whether the issue is a current draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T00:22:48.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2016-06-15T00:23:24.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMO, it is not&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering 3 types of rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carbon Fiber&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Billet Forged Aluminum Alloy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast Aluminum Alloy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three material types do not lend themselves to flexibility.  The brittle nature of the material would crack, perhaps not even visibly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But, I have to be honest here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have straightened cast motorcycle wheels using a small jack and a propane torch to heat it up. I also had a truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure looks like this and that's about how bad my rim was when I did this.  I will add, I was VERY young and very broke and didn't consider consequences to actions.  That being said.  The wheel lasted another two years, when I sold the bike I told the new owner, &quot;get a new rim because this is what I did.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That rim was unpainted and I inspected it with a jewelers loop to look for cracks, did not find any before or after but I have always believed that were microscopic fissures in the rim.  I have no proof if that belief is truly a fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply heated up the area around the bend with the propane torch making sure I didn't linger too much in any one area.  I was not trying to melt anything or pool up any of the, in my case, cast rim.   I was simply making it more pliable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim can soak up a lot of heat and distribute it quickly around the rim as it's aluminium so I set it in the sun for a bit to get up to around 130 degrees F first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the jack to slowly push out the bend and would then put it on my truing stand to check for fault.  I did a wash, rinse, repeat of this quite a few times before I got it right.  I used blocks of wood to prevent scarring of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looked like.  I don't recommend this.  I never felt good about it.  I have had peers validate the solution but at the end of the day, none of us are metallurgists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hu0mL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hu0mL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here was my tool list&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Portable Telescoping Car Jack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Propane Torch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle%20wheel%20truing%20stand&amp;amp;biw=1745&amp;amp;bih=863&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwikwPvU4ajNAhUPxmMKHZtCAz4Q_AUIBygA&amp;amp;dpr=1.1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Wheel Truing Stand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T00:28:46.843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T00:28:46.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30222" CreationDate="2016-06-15T01:00:50.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The only curved bore designs I am aware of are toroidal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been unable to find a match to the drawing, not even close.  I took a hard look at steam engines as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a toroidal design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvRFz.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hvRFz.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a modern mock up of a similar design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34b5Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34b5Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T01:00:50.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2016-06-15T01:57:54.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend may also be referring to the tire being too wide for the wheel. In this case the normally flat surface is forced to curve in order for the side walls to fit into a narrower space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paulster stated, there are a great many variables that come into play, but the basic idea is that a larger contact patch with the same tire compound and the same load and weather variables will have better &lt;em&gt;lateral&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;traction&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T01:57:54.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13424" CreationDate="2016-06-15T03:16:54.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;had same problem on Polo 2008. Found leaking expansion tank: when is full and hot it starts leaking slightly through the middle joint. I noticed it only when topped up right to the MAX line. need to look carefully to see it. hoe it helps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19055" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T03:16:54.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3572" CreationDate="2016-06-15T05:44:23.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to coolant. It is not recommended to run with either 100% water or ethylene glycol. Manufacturers (Ford in this case) recommend the that the coolant concentration not go below 40% or exceed 60%.  Doing so will do damage parts and they won't function properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50/50 mixture provides protection from -37C(-34F) to +129C(265F).&#xA;Well within safe operating limits &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare  to properties of the components separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% H2O-water: Freeze point 0C(32F) Boiling Point: 100C(212F)&#xA;Note: As air pressure increases or decreases the boiling point also changes. For example, changing altitudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% Antifreeze: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         Melting Point: -12.9C(8.8F)&#xA;&#xA;         Flash Point: 111C(232F)-closed cap&#xA;&#xA;         Boiling Point: 197.3C(387.1F)&#xA;&#xA;         Auto ignition point: 410C (770F)  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T05:44:23.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T07:00:09.553" Score="2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda CBF600NA (A = ABS variant) PC43 (second generation) and my battery probably went dead recently. I'd like to buy a new one. My dead battery I've found inside the motorcycle is &lt;code&gt;GS-Yuasa YTZ10S&lt;/code&gt;. I've found one replacement, &lt;code&gt;Varta TTZ10S&lt;/code&gt; with very similar parameters as this GS-Yuasa, but instead of 190CCA it has 150CCA (it's the only difference). Do you think it would make sense to buy this 150CCA battery into my CBF600NA? Would 150CCA be enough to properly start the engine so that it won't result in future damages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm asking is that Yuasa is ~3x more expensive than other batteries, and it has a high &quot;premium tax&quot;, which I would like to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19057" LastEditorUserId="19057" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T13:46:27.140" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T13:46:27.140" Title="Honda CBF600NA with 150 CCA Battery?" Tags="|honda|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T07:38:07.400" Score="3" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed my radiator was dry after three weeks of driving my car after i got it back from the dealer, they replaced my water pump. I just discovered this tonight after my check engine light came on. Do I have them come pick up my car or should I pay for the tow myself? I am wondering how much damage may and could happen due to their mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19060" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T08:27:59.380" Title="My Toyota dealer replaced my water pump and failed to replace my coolant" Tags="|toyota|coolant|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31787" CreationDate="2016-06-15T08:27:59.380" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that you would be able to drive a car without coolant for three weeks.  I suspect what actually happened is that there was a coolant leak, possibly (probably) as a result of the work carried out to your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely to have been a small leak and it's taken three weeks for what remained of the coolant to seep away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would say is to stop driving the car immediately.  I'd contact the Toyota dealer straight away.  If they don't instantly cover the cost of recovery plus any repairs, contact Toyota head office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T08:27:59.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-06-15T11:58:00.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a 55 plate I assume it's either a very late Mk IV or most likely a Mk V.  The Mk VI didn't start until 08.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it's most likely to be a wiring issue with the module in the drivers door.  This could be caused by a trapped wire within the wiring that goes through the A-post or (more likely) moisture / water ingress which is usually caused when water breaches the foam rubber seal behind the door card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to VAG-COM / VCDS / OBD II, check for fault codes.  I know for definite that wiring faults with things such as the mirror modules are definitely logged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best course of action is to remove the door card and physically check everything.  A multimeter may help you here.  It is known for the solder to break down on some of the circuit boards on modules within the door but the fact that the car behaves differently with the door shut leads me to thing it's probably wiring (or possibly earth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you probably want to do as a matter of urgency is to stick a screw driver or stiff piece of wire up each of the drain holes along the bottom edge of the door and make sure they're not blocked.  The Mk V had issues with the rubber door seals which were remedied on the Mk VI.  I would not be surprised if a certain amount of water is sloshing around inside your door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:27:11.857" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:27:11.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T12:58:37.260" Score="7" ViewCount="7573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my sportbike in storage for at least 3 years.  It is Electronic Fuel Injected.  It had a full tank of Premium Gas (Shell or Mobil).  I put in STA-BIL to preserve the gasoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the gas beyond saving?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it cause harm if I try to start it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001B0TCN4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STA-BIL has a product called &quot;Start Your Engine&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which gives back the combustibility of the gas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this help?  Has anyone used this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19061" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:00:53.700" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:12:58.060" Title="How long can &quot;Stabil&quot;ized gas stay fresh? and can it be improved?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|gasoline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31786" CreationDate="2016-06-15T13:44:57.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CCA on a battery indicates the Cold-Crank-Amps of the battery.&#xA;It means the amount of amps the battery is able to deliver in 0 degree Celsius .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher CCA means better starting ability of the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research online and I found out that you can use anything more than 130CCA on your motorcycle without any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/productprofile.asp?ProductGroupID=1402&amp;amp;model=CBF600&amp;amp;brand=HONDA&amp;amp;departmentName=Motorcycle%20Batteries&amp;amp;departmentID=155&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Click for more info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T13:44:57.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30338" CreationDate="2016-06-15T14:27:52.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i followed DucatiKiller's answer and sent it in to the dealership. They have no clue to what the problem can be - but are changing the starter. We will see how it will work out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New update ! ! Edit ;&#xA;So they changed the starter and it worked about 1 month, and then it just went complete dead.. So it went back in, and now they have changed the ignition button. Time will show if this works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17743" LastEditorUserId="17743" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T11:31:06.353" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T11:31:06.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32515" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:02:24.393" Score="9" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Added info from comments to bottom of question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend recently imported a right-hand drive 1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R (R32) with the RB26TT motor into the states. It's beautiful, and I'm extremely jealous. The car is mostly stock except for NISMO aero parts, an auxiliary oil cooler (in addition to the OEM cooler, which has a small leak), and an aftermarket boost controller (unknown brand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was driving &quot;fine&quot; for the first couple weeks before it lost power. Essentially, the car feels like it's only making ~150 hp at anything more than half throttle, or any speeds above ~60 mph. At half throttle, everything seems normal, and it is pushing a few PSI of boost. The car idles fine before and after the symptoms occur, but will spit and backfire as the revs drop after. The engine does not want to rev from idle when you give it full throttle (in neutral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What has been replaced or verified to be working (using multi-meter or known good parts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing verified before and after the problem occurs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant (flushed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant temp sensor (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel filter (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pump (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass AirFlow sensors (MAF)(both test with known good parts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (checked with multimeter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Control Unit (ECU) (tested with known good part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbo system gaskets (replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boost controller (swapped back to OEM, verified)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wastegate (verified via pressure test)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow-off valve (inspected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intercooler (verified via pressure test)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 6 plugs look the same after ~150 miles of driving since this problem began, which should rule out injector related problems. He also removed the injectors and ran Seafoam through them, which all seemed similar. He unplugged both the o2 sensors, which made no difference. While there is a very small oil leak, the engine has hardly any lost oil in the 600 miles/4ish months he has had the car, which had been running ~10 lbs boost with the aftermarket controller (before the problem began). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has not yet removed the aftermarket boost controller, but he has rerouted the system back to the OEM controller. After replacing the gaskets he has tested the turbo system and it is able to hold at least 5lbs boost (previous time the pressure tester shot off at ~6 psi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been discussing possible problems, and plan on checking the fuel pressure next, thinking it might be the fuel pressure regulator. He has also ordered an OBD-I diagnostic tool/Nissan software that should be in before this weekend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of what else could be causing this condition? Could the small oil leak be dropping oil pressure enough to throw a red flag at the ECU, cutting power (despite the minimal oil loss)? Would a clogged cat/exhaust cause this problem without overheating the cat and making things smell? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FROM COMMENTS:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;OEM boost controller opens wastegate at 9lb boost, current pressure checker blows off at 6lb, but car builds boost until problem occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SteveRacer suggested it could be a communication problem between the TPS and ECU, though both are individually reading nominal (AKA could be a wire gremlin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per Paulster2's suggestion we checked the pre-post cat temps, but the thermometer range was too low. It is worth noting that while the car was warming up the pre-cat temp was 150°F higher than post cat, possibly indicating a clog cat. Exhaust is completely welded so we have not tested that theory. Interesting read on exhaust temps vis-a-vi catalytic converter can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23503/how-can-i-tell-if-i-have-bad-cats&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AaronLavers suggested we try to get our hands on a wideband o2 sensor for a better idea of what AFR the engine is seeing. He also suggested bad coil packs. We are holding off on replacing those, as a full set is ~600 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD/CAN network diagnostic tool is unable to read data from ECU, multiple computers and phones were tried. All failed. Still trying to figure that one out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for taking the time to read this and think about it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:17:13.080" Title="R32 Skyline GT-R low power" Tags="|engine|nissan|troubleshooting|skyline|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:22:29.620" Score="7" ViewCount="47391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check engine light been on.  I checked gas cap the other day and it stayed on. I will put premium fuel in next time i fill up.  It's been on for about a week.  Any ideas to cause or solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19064" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T02:15:41.267" Title="my 2011 Chevy Equinox check engine light on, reads code P0420" Tags="|chevrolet|p0420|equinox|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31794" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:51:03.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0420 is probably the most common code seen.  It refers to &quot;Catalytic Converter Efficiency&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it Engine Control Module (ECU) monitors the chemical constituents of the exhaust, both before and after the catalytic converter.  The Catalyst is really a small furnace that reburns the exhaust and adds more oxygen where necessary, to eliminate harmful emissions and convert them into [hopefully] mere carbon dioxide and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ECU doesn't see the proper changes in the exhaust, eventually it will set the Check Engine Light with a code of P0420.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While being one of the most common codes, it can also be one of the most inaccurate.  Perhaps your catalytic converter is failing, or &quot;poisoned&quot; from chemicals that were not supposed to be in the exhaust. More likely is the the rear oxygen sensor is failing or contaminated, giving false reports to the ECU about the catalyst health. However, unless your 2011 Equinox has a great deal of mileage, I doubt either of these explantions. The code can be cleared for free by a local auto parts store, or you can purchase or borrow a scan tool very inexpensively that will allow you to clear this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also complete several so-called &quot;drive cycles&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GM Example&lt;/a&gt; in an attempt to clear the code, but this can be a considerable time and effort sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also purchase one of several &quot;magic juice&quot; solutions at the auto parts store, which can clean and improve, to a limited extent, a tired catalytic converter.  But a long steady highway drive should do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Check Engine Light goes away but later returns, further diagnostics will be necssary due to the ubiquitous nature of this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other posters are correct:  if the catalyst needs to be replaced, it&#xA;  may be covered under the 8 year / 80,000 mile extended emissions&#xA;  warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T21:55:12.610" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T21:55:12.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T16:44:11.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2015 Sentra SV stops taking gas before it's full.  I know for sure it's not a problem with the gauge as I ran the car almost empty and could only fill up a little over 7 gallons, whereas the tank can take a little over 13 gallons.  I tried to fill up slowly but could only add another 1/2 a gallon or so before gas started overflowing from the tank.  I would appreciate if someone could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19066" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T01:28:43.637" Title="2015 Sentra tank does not fill up completely" Tags="|sentra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31800" CreationDate="2016-06-15T18:48:40.747" Score="32" ViewCount="11744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking today, what is the actual point of an exhaust? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't we just have a pipe going out the front of a car instead of taking all the gases to the back of the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only see disadvantages of the current design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The expense of manufacturing a long metal pipe, which has to be the length of the car. It would be a lot cheaper to make it come out at the front or the side&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More to repair. Loads of old cars have leaking exhausts, and are always a nightmare to find and are expensive to fix. It would be easier to move the exhaust to the side or front and shorten it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Added weight means more fuel consumption&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repairing damage from going over speed humps at speed, loads of them round here have scrapes from exhausts on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As everyone always asks what things are, here is a speed hump (shamelessly stolen from Wikipedia):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTdlc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTdlc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the points of exhausts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't we just let the gases out into the engine compartment, or out the front or side of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we can't let them into the engine compartment, why can't we just let it out at the side of the car, instead of at the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T06:07:16.630" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T06:07:16.630" Title="What is the point of the exhaust?" Tags="|engine-theory|exhaust|emissions|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31794" CreationDate="2016-06-15T18:52:55.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It can be many things&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, way many things, as SteveRacer has already cited. The most common (but not unique) is a failing catalytic converter. Please note that often a bad catalytic converter usually is a symptom of a problem, not a cause. If you replace it without solving the source problem, it will fail again in very short time. If this is the case and this came on recently you can try to use a fluid to clean the emissions system to solve this problem, at least for some time to buy you time (or to do smog, if it is required in your jurisdiction). I used Seafoam once and it solved for a few dozen miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using premium fuel will do nothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only use the specified fuel grade for your car. Higher octane level in the gas is to prevent it to flashing prematurely in a high compression engine. If your car uses 87 gas and you put 91, you will just be wasting money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check if the warranty is still valid for the catalytic converter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the United States (should be your case, right?), the catalytic converter is warranted by law for 8 years or 80000 miles (whichever first occurs) and if your car is within this warranty it is illegal to remove the catalytic converter yourself. You have to bring to the dealer and they should do it for free. I think that in some states (like California) the warranty is even longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:10:22.303" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:10:22.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:09:44.477" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several things;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust coming out the front is dangerous. If the fumes are ingested into the cab the driver may be harmed. Normally a car is driven forward. If the exhaust is coming out the back this gives the least chance of the fumes making it inside the cab. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mufflers are large components. Often there is not enough room inside the engine compartment to house them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust comes out screaming hot. The long trip to the back allows it to cool off some. No one would want a car that if you walk by you run the rick of being burned. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T19:09:44.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-15T19:12:16.160" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safety, comfort, noise and space are the things that come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Safety&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust gasses are hot as hell.  Hot enough that we put heat shields all over the exhaust line.  In engines, we are actively trying to remove heat.  Adding more from the exhaust goes completely against that and would increase overheating.  Also, would you want a hot exhaust pipe near your door, nicely exposed for you to brush a leg against when getting out?  I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Comfort&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the exhaust came out the front or the side, you would be far more likely to breathe in your own exhaust, either through an open window or the ventilation system.  No thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Noise&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to put a muffler somewhere.  The space near the engine is already being used pretty heavily.  So you would either have to design something smaller or live without one.  Since there are laws some places regarding having a muffler and creating excess noise, car manufacturers are going to put them on there so they can sell cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Space&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As alluded to above, there are large components (muffler, catalytic converter) that need to go somewhere.  And they don't fit up by the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4088" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T19:12:16.160" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:10:11.957" Score="3" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Corolla's check engine light will come on then turn off  after a day or two. This has happened every few weeks for the past several months. In the oil change before last I had the mechanic use MOA oil to flush the system, but the problem is still happening. What could be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14796" LastEditorUserId="14796" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T23:11:28.130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T23:11:28.130" Title="2001 Toyota Corolla vvt code 1349 turns check engine light on and off" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:11:29.930" Score="3" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this car for three days.  On the first day it was perfect and then the second day it just stopped out of no where. I started it up and it kept doing it every now and then until it never started up any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have no spark and no fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19070" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:25:17.527" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T20:46:14.083" Title="1993 Ford Probe GT that has no spark and can't hear fuel pump kick in?" Tags="|ford|starting|fuel-system|spark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31790" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:12:58.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STA-BIL advertises gasoline integrity for 24 months&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems you have exceeded the advertised lifetime of 24 months by 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action Items&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drain all fuel from the gas tank, fuel lines and fuel pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect inside of fuel tank for rust and/or varnish from evaporated fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may need to clean your fuel injectors, you may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean various components with carburetor cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble and fill with completely fresh fuel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the gas beyond saving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, throw it out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it cause harm if I try to start it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not but you could clog your fuel injectors if the gas is in bad shape and create more work for yourself than simply draining everything out and starting with completely fresh fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STA-BIL has a product called &amp;quot;Start Your Engine&amp;quot; which gives back the combustibility of the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might.  I wouldn't use it though.  I would just drain out the 36 month old gas start fresh.  You might have water accumulation in the bottom of the tank as well, as before, I would drain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not, I typically don't use these types of products.  I prefer to completely drain fuel systems for storage and start fresh so I don't have any experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to try and simply drain the fuel system, add fresh gas and start the bike.  I would also change the oil, filter and coolant as well.  You might find that the bike just starts up.  I would not use the old fuel or try and save it under any circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:12:58.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:28:32.137" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, we &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; have a pipe going out the front of a car as in this design here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhXBO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhXBO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or its heavier predecessor:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67x7R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67x7R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Arguably, the aerodynamic properties are not optimal in both, but here is a similar approach where aerodynamics have been considered for sure:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0sWf8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0sWf8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;piston engine plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;other designs (like trucks) do account for aerodynamics by putting the exhaust tubing behind the relevant frontal surfaces and letting the exhaust stream exit sideways or upwards. You might even see this in a passenger car, although I'd doubt its usefulness:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbGnK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbGnK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mazda 3 tuned with truck exhausts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's common to all of these cases is that designers had plenty of room to work with to direct the gases away from the drivers'/pilots' noses. Specific properties of the respective vessels were serving the same purpose, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not have this in most standard factory model passenger car designs, so the problem had to be solved differently. As an exacerbation from the engineer's point of view, you will have to accomodate exhaust gas treatment facilites and silencers &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; and something like a DPF/SCR system (Diesel exhaust cleaning) will take up plenty of space on its own:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LjAz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LjAz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SCR catalyst&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19069" LastEditorUserId="19069" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:41:31.427" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:41:31.427" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31801" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:43:21.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three common problems with the variable valve control system; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low oil level resulting in low oil pressure. Looks like this has been covered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failure of the VVT control solenoid. Test the solenoid to rule it out as the cause.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failure of the cam adjuster gears. See Toyota TSB #EG009-03 for the updated intake camshaft VVT assembly to repair the problem if everything tests good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found oil additives and cleaners to be of no help with these problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T22:58:10.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:58:10.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T01:27:44.190" Score="5" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put hydrogen gas in any internal combustible engine that use normal fuel or even a diesel engine, would that mess up the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T03:48:59.650" Title="Can hydrogen gas work in all ICEs?" Tags="|alternative-fuels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12120" CreationDate="2016-06-16T01:32:32.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Total and complete snake oil. As @AllanOsborne said, there has been many conclusive tests done on these &quot;theories&quot;. It's complete bunkum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, driving the same route and achieving a negligible difference in economy - without accurately measuring throttle position, engine load, etc - is just going to leave you with a biased placebo effect. You would need to have the vehicle on a dynamometer and having the engine in as controlled an environment as possible, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGtImIP6j3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGtImIP6j3A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Driver mods&quot; are the only way to improve your fuel economy, realistically speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T01:32:32.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31806" CreationDate="2016-06-16T01:53:11.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you obtain, store, and deliver hydrogen to an engine? I think BMW and a few other automakers tested Hydrogen as an alternative fuel in the mid 2000s and killed the project because the infrastructure to support a hydrogen vehicle does not exist in scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I was looking at purchasing a CNG car.  At the time people told me it would be too expensive to retrofit a vehicle but you can find CNG cars at municipality auctions and Honda made a CNG civic.  Also chances are good you can find at least one CNG station in a mid-sized city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if a CNG car could be converted to hydrogen, but they do have high pressure tank and are tuned to burn a fuel that is more similar to hydrogen than gasoline ( my guess, I am not a chemist or engineer) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12567" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T01:53:11.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31806" CreationDate="2016-06-16T02:42:54.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional combustion engines can run on numerous fuels, and gases work very well. Hydrogen is being tested by a number of manufacturers on fairly traditional engines. &#xA;The engines are usually 'built' however - harder valves/stems/springs, uprated conrods, pistons, bore sleeves etc. Also obviously the injection system is different (I believe they use a gas mixer, or others use adapted DISI systems). You end up with lower emissions, lower burn temperatures, and higher power outputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now how to store such an energetic element as hydrogen... that's the $150-billion question. The atoms pass straight through most storage containers we have currently, that aren't supercooled with liquid nitrogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_internal_combustion_engine_vehicle&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_internal_combustion_engine_vehicle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Also Mythbusters once tested this on a completely bog-standard chev (I think?) v8, by spraying hydrogen straight into the carburettor. They nearly exploded themselves, but the car did run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastEditorUserId="15923" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T03:48:59.650" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T03:48:59.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="63978" CreationDate="2016-06-16T03:15:25.443" Score="6" ViewCount="5614" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those plastic parts are so weak. They get broken all the time. I specifically saw this problem in My Renault Twingo 1995 and VW Beetle 2001. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cars that use metal instead of plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19072" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T03:18:34.263" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T21:43:42.753" Title="Why do car manufacturers use plastic parts in the car?" Tags="|parts|plastic|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31810" CreationDate="2016-06-16T03:33:13.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight Reduction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using metal components within a car to replace all of the plastic components would increase the weight and reduce the overall efficiency and gas mileage of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall energy consumption globally by replacing plastic parts with metal parts would have to be astronomical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T03:33:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31810" CreationDate="2016-06-16T03:42:29.287" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @DucatiKiller said, weight is a major factor. With ever-increasing safety standards that need to be met, car weights are constantly increasing. Making as many weight savings in as many areas as possible is a major reason here. Cars are getting more efficient, with smaller engines, so the cars need to be as light as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's &lt;strong&gt;cost&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturing cast alloy products, or steel products, just isn't as cost effective as it used to be. Injection moulded parts can be made en-masse and they are cheap to produce, cheap to ship, and cheap to eventually recycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;advancements in polymers&lt;/strong&gt; that actually make some plastics &lt;em&gt;stronger&lt;/em&gt; than metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might seem like these plastics break easily, but in a lot of cases they can perform better than their metal counterparts. They might snap if you lean on them but so might an equivalent metal part. Remember, in a modern car, it's designed to crumple like a beanie-baby on impact. Metal parts don't crush as easily in a lot of cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: And then there's the cynical, yet very strong case of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Return customers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh dear, that part has broken three days outside of warranty. Isn't that conven... I mean... a pity. You best buy that &lt;em&gt;bespoke, dealership-only plastic part&lt;/em&gt; again. See you again in a year or so!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastEditorUserId="15923" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T03:47:34.767" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T03:47:34.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T06:04:30.620" Score="6" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata and am switching over my brand new radio from my old car. The radio I have is a Pioneer AVH-2800BS. According to Crutchfield (which I know and trust by heart!), it says &quot;The wiring harness does not have a power antenna connection, so you'll need to connect your new stereo's power antenna wire directly to your vehicle's power antenna connection.&quot; I need help with what to do there. I don't understand how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it says &quot;When installing this adapter, you'll need to adjust four level controls to match the output of your new stereo to the input of the factory amp(s).&quot; What does that even mean, and how do I do that???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19075" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T13:39:49.380" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T06:08:43.777" Title="Need help installing Pioneer car stereo in 2006 Hyundai Sonata (power antenna)" Tags="|electrical|wiring|audio|sonata|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T06:23:46.470" Score="4" ViewCount="4185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to clean the cylinder fins of my BMW R80GS 1991 with brake cleaner and a brush. If I am careful to not get it on any rubber parts or gaskets is it generally safe to use on the aluminum parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Garage door will be open because of fumes.&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T11:16:44.333" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:32:08.037" Title="Can I use modern brake cleaner on exterior engine parts?" Tags="|engine|brake-cleaner|aluminum|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-16T07:33:02.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exhaust also creates a pressure differential, which can help scavenge exhaust gases from the chamber.  So a properly tuned exhaust will therefore increase the fuel efficiency of the engine. Whilst an engine without an exhaust would make more power, it would also consume more fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19077" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T07:33:02.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31815" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:14:49.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use brake part cleaner on lots of things. It should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note- this is just personal experience. If someone pops up and says it's detrimental, I'll certainly listen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:14:49.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:31:24.330" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the excellent answers already given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An important point to note is that we need to have a catalytic converter somewhere in the exhaust a short exhaust will not have room to fit it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are a host of other things car manufacturers determine while designing an exhaust system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an engine to have optimum efficiency, the intake , combustion and exhaust systems have to be tuned together as a single entity. The exhaust is more than a stupid long steel pipe at the end of the exhaust manifold. It CONTRIBUTES to the performance of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the exhaust itself there are various parameters like the length, the width or the diameter etc which determine a host of factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want a setup with low end power and good efficiency , you will have to go for a traditional long exhaust, if you want a race setup a short exhaust is preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for any car you drive , the exhaust pipe characteristics are carefully adjusted and tuned according to the purpose of the car , now in 90% of the commuter cars , the performance factor takes a back seat and economy and comfort come in first , thus the long exhaust till the tail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now , one can argue that if length of the exhaust affects the performance then why do super cars have long exhausts? Reason? to stick to Sound and emissions standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:31:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:50:22.900" Score="7" ViewCount="3434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was doing a vacuum test on my 99 Nissam Almera 1.6 ( GA16DE engine ) to kind of get an idea how the engine is doing after I homebrew seafoamed it, and when I blipped the throttle the vacuum reading dropped to -5 in.Hg before jumping to 23 and settling back to it usual slightly jittery reading of 20 in.Hg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The -5 basically means higher than than atmospheric pressure, and I was wondering if anyone might have some clue what's going on?  I have not been suffering any noticeable performance problems.  The only thing that's stood out to me is a bit of what I assume to be valve rattle if I try to accelerate up a hill in too high a gear at less than say 2500 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason I'm asking this question is because I've never seen a negative reading before, and I've never read about a negative reading in any of the automotive books I've read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:03:07.780" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:22:30.970" Title="What problem does a negative vacuum reading indicate when blipping the throttle?" Tags="|vacuum|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31821" CreationDate="2016-06-16T10:22:08.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine gauge vacuum is the difference between manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure. When you snap the throttle pressure builds in the manifold. Then settles back down to whatever it was at before. If you look at a MAP pid it correlates with engine gauge vacuum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shakey needle on a gauge would suggest a problem with the valve train. Either they need to be adjusted or there's something else going on. If I had to guess the valve train noise and shakey needle are probably why the gauge reads -5inHg on snap throttle and pressure in the manifold isn't equal to atmospheric pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:22:30.970" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:22:30.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31821" CreationDate="2016-06-16T11:04:03.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vacuum is the opposite of atmospheric pressure. The atmosphere at sea level holds at about ~14.7psi. This is considered &quot;1 atmosphere&quot; or &quot;1 bar&quot;. The engine is an air pump. It draws air in and pushes exhaust out. More accurately, it doesn't &quot;draw&quot; air in, but rather, creates a vacuum and the atmosphere pushes air into the space with vacuum in an attempt to equalize the two pressures. When the throttle is closed, not much air can get through into those spaces where vacuum exists. This is considered a &lt;em&gt;high vacuum state&lt;/em&gt; inside the engine. When you blip the throttle, the inside of the engine where the vacuum exists and the atmosphere do their dance while trying to equalize. Inside the intake the vacuum area, if enough air can come in, will become a pressurized area (greater than zero, but not quite at atmospheric pressure). If you look at the vacuum reading as a positive number and as the vacuum moves towards pressure, the number will decrease. When vacuum decreases past zero, it becomes &lt;em&gt;negative vacuum&lt;/em&gt; or pressure. Thus the negative number when you blip the throttle. If you were measuring pressure during this time, you'd have a negative pressure reading while the intake was in a vacuum state, then move into positive pressure as you blip the throttle. But since you are measuring vacuum, this is the reading you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T11:33:55.283" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T11:33:55.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31829" CreationDate="2016-06-16T11:38:56.310" Score="5" ViewCount="34022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an opel/vauxhall insignia. Often when i come to check the oil i find the oil level is above the max rating, I believe the oil level is also somehow raising (possible diesel slipping past the rings?) between oil changes, as I doubt the three garages it has been to have all been as incompetent as to not put the correct amount of oil in. Should i be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12324" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T08:27:35.203" Title="Is it safe to run a car with the oil level above max?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25740" CreationDate="2016-06-16T12:10:03.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is to ensure the inside of the car does not get damp - even in a garage, condensation can cause mildew or mould to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to keep it dry is to use a passive dehumifier - basically a material (commonly crystals) that absorbs moisture from the air, in the same way as the silica gel sachets you get in boxes of electrical appliances. For a cheap solution, you can even use cat litter for this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T12:10:03.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:05:25.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take that airplane with the short, up-front, direct exhaust pipes. Start it up in your driveway early on a Saturday morning. See how popular you are with your neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19081" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:05:25.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:28:31.613" Score="6" ViewCount="6190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have thought about this question, a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The main shaft sprocket (Output shaft from the engine) (for two wheeler,i.e, the bikes) is having the less number of the teeth, while the rear wheel sprocket is having large number of teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While, I have seen a bit different structure in the bicycle, where the rear wheel sprocket's teeth will be less in number (Even in gear cycles) than the main sprocket (which is attached to the pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just curious and interested to learn, why the things are having different structure and the reason behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T16:19:49.397" Title="Which factor determines the number of teeth in a sprocket" Tags="|sprocket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31827" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:42:59.070" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all to do with gearing and matching the optimum rotational speed of the engine with the wheels (put simply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you have an engine which develops it's peak power between 3500RPM and 5000RPM.  Now imagine that vehicle isn't equipped with any gears.  At 60mph, a roadwheel and tyre that is around 2ft in diameter is rotating at around 840RPM.  Increase the speed to 80mph and that wheel is still only rotating at around 1120RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see how peak power of the engine is not reached at anything like road legal speeds.  Combine that with the fact that below say 600 RPM, most car engines will stall, the engine would never be able to get the car moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason, ratios are picked that optimise peak power at speeds commonly required for road use with respect to accelerating, cruising, climbing hills and towing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual decisions also involve factors such as engine peak economy, noise and comfort, use of the vehicle (i.e. &quot;sports&quot; cars typically have &quot;close ratio&quot; gearing), the number of gears and any number of other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T14:19:58.940" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T14:19:58.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31824" CreationDate="2016-06-16T14:31:49.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much above max. You can read what happens when the oil level is excessive &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/1125/10905&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the oil level is actually increasing. Hot oil expands and will show you a higher reading, which is why usually oil level is checked when the engine is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really is increasing, on diesels this is usually caused by fuel getting into the oil, as you suspected. A common culprit is unsuccessful active DPF regeneration - if you fail to complete the cycle the extra fuel injected to increase exhaust temperature will not burn and drain to the sump. Doing this constantly by driving only short distances will accumulate diesel in your oil. A slight increase might be more or less normal, but if it is increasing so much that the level goes above max - you might have more serious issues going on, like a leaking injector. Either way, you probably have diesel getting in your oil somehow and you don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel is a poor lubricant compared to motor oil and diluting the oil too much might kill your engine due to poor lubrication or even an engine runaway in the long term. Get this fixed as soon as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be coolant, however this is usually obvious and less likely. Coolant in your oil will cause it to develop brownish milky sludge when checked on the dipstick or under the oil cap. In this case you would have even more serious problems, such as a blown head gasket or a cracked/warped head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oil analysis will tell you what's in your oil if you're not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T08:27:35.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32028" CreationDate="2016-06-16T14:50:00.753" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if my bike is left 4-5 hours during heavy rains 5 days a week for 12 weeks?&#xA;This type of weather is common in India during monsoon. I drive to work where there is open parking leaving my bike unprotected from rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? Is it harmful for the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13549" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T16:15:54.730" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T05:13:41.480" Title="Parking in the open in heavy rains" Tags="|motorcycle|maintenance|environment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31830" CreationDate="2016-06-16T15:05:32.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sort of scenario is not good for any automobile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially when you include &quot;Monsoon&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you will be driving it everyday your only real problem will be way of dealing with rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use WD - 40 (will cost you around INR 300) to combat corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T15:05:32.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31827" CreationDate="2016-06-16T15:08:01.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all has to do with the distance traveled for 1 input revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike, there are 3 factors.  The front gear, the back gear, and the tire diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratio of teeth on the rear gear to the number of teeth on the front gear is the gear ratio.  If the front gear is larger, the wheel will spin more than 1 revolution per input revolution.  If the front gear is smaller than the rear gear, the wheel will spin less than once per revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque is multiplied by the gear ratio.  Gears are a balance between torque output and RPM required to move a given speed.  This is why most vehicles have a transmission with multiple gears for better acceleration in lower gears and lower RPM (therefore better gas mileage and higher top speed) in higher gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher ratios:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  smaller front, larger back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Higher torque&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Higher RPM required for the same speed&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower ratios:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  larger front, smaller back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Loss torque&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  lower RPM required for the same speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  can achieve a higher speed at maximum RPM&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire diameter plays a role also as the overall ratio is how far you move per input revolution.  A larger diameter tire will be like having a lower gear ratio, while a smaller diameter tire will be similar to a higher gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets throw around some numbers.  nothing real word, just pulling numbers out of the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 up front, 40 in the back, 22&quot; tire:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(15/40) = 25.9&quot; per input revolution&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(15/40)/12/5280*1000*60 = 24.5 MPH / 1000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lets change it to 20 teeth up front:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(20/40) = 34.5&quot; per input revolution&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(20/40)/12/5280*1000*60 = 32.7 MPH / 1000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lets change it to 35 teeth out back:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(15/35) = 29.6&quot; per input revolution&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(15/35)/12/5280*1000*60 = 28.0 MPH / 1000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lets change the tire size to 24&quot;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;24*pi*(15/40) = 28.2&quot; per input revolution&lt;br&gt;&#xA;22*pi*(15/40)/12/5280*1000*60 = 26.822 MPH / 1000 RPM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think of it, this is completely ignoring the transmission.  You have the engine through the transmission gear ratios, then the chain/belt gears/sprockets acting as a final drive ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T12:48:12.003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T12:48:12.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31837" CreationDate="2016-06-16T15:48:28.197" Score="7" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;1970 Chevrolet C20 Custom Camper Pickup&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SBC 350, Quadrajet carburetor&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been having some issues I believe are float related.  Wanted to see if my thinking is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #1&lt;/strong&gt; - takes a bit of cranking to get it started after it's been sitting.  I do have check valve in the fuel filter.  This has been going on for a while now.  Fires right up when warm.  I've also heard this might be the fuel evaporating off.  I typically only drive the truck on weekends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #2&lt;/strong&gt; - The other weekend I was driving the truck.  Twice, I was pulling out on a road with a 50mph speed limit and a bit of an incline so I was on the throttle about 25-75% for 20 seconds or so when it started stumbling.  I let off for a couple seconds and it recovered.  I believe it emptied the bowl.  That same day I had it out on the highway and it did fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I changed the fuel filter.  I had also changed out my secondary rods.  Took it for a drive and it drove great.  Good power, good A/F verified with an A/F gauge hooked to a cheap o2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue #3&lt;/strong&gt; - This was last weekend.  It was about 90* F (32* C) out.  Went WOT from ~30mph and it started to stumble almost as soon as the secondaries opened.  Later that day, twice, I was pulling away from a light at about 50-75% throttle and when I crossed the street, it started stumbling.  Let off and it recovered after a few seconds.  Staying less than ~50% throttle, it drove great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking it is a fueling issue, not an ignition issue, since when it happens, the engine stumbles for a few seconds, then recovers.  I would think if it was ignition related, I would see the issue more regularly and come/go 'right away' rather than having a couple second delay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference:  Points ignition, 16* base, 18* mech, 12* vac, all in around 2400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking the float might be stuck partially open.  I am planning on pulling the air horn off and see what is going on in there, and cleaning it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I should be on the lookout for that would cause these issues?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T16:06:56.940" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T07:46:41.757" Title="Quadrajet issues" Tags="|chevrolet|carburetor|sbc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31815" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:06:29.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be fine. But don't use carburetor cleaner - similar packaging, but it leaves deposits around that you don't necessarily want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let either of them sit on rubber or painted surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T17:06:29.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31815" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:14:15.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake clean works fine but evaporates quickly (the whole point of it), Varsol (Solvent) or something similar works better for cleaning and then wash it off with brake-clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T17:14:15.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31754" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:20:06.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily a bad suspension. I am not going to claim it is one specific thing because there are so many things it could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few things to check in the rear of the car to find out what is going in; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the obvious suspension parts as best you can while it is on&#xA;the ground and while jacked up. Could be shocks, sway bar components, bushings etc. Worn shocks can allow the suspension to come all the way up and bottom out. This would make a loud thump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the exhaust. If a hanger has come loose or broken it will&#xA;allow the exhaust to move excessively and strike the under-body of the car when big bumps are hit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that loose items are secured. Items in the trunk (boot) can cause all kinds of noise. A spare tire, a jack or tools, etc. will bounce around if not secured properly. I have actually found a loose spare tire was making a tremendous racket in the back of a car when on bumpy roads. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. I hope it is just a simple thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="4939" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T20:34:49.680" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T20:34:49.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31833" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:32:09.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the float was sticking you would see black smoke when it stumbles and would clear up when its pinned.You're right with the acc. pump, would be a consistent flat-spot, but check for a steady stream anyway.All little things add up, so if points, plugs and ignition leads are not 100%, start there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T17:32:09.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:41:24.890" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope someone can give me some insight on what is going on with my car. 2002 Pontiac Sunfire two door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time I have heard a very very faint ticking sound which never really concerned me car ran perfect otherwise and the sound was so faint. I have had the car for a year 156,000 miles when I bought it.I put roughly 2,250 miles on it and have not changed oil yet. oil is not black, still caramel color. I don't drive but just around town. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard this ticking sound noticeably louder the other day. I went to switch lanes while driving I didn't have the zippy power normally due. (5 speed) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday on my drive home I could hear the louder tapping noise. But now with a weird flapping noise going on and the car cut out briefly but did not stall. Then it was fine (but still heard the noise tapping) within 5 minutes it did it again, that flapping noise and the car cut out just for a split second. I got it home and looked to see if something was broken that was flapping around under the hood and there was nothing. I went out today and started the engine letting it idle. The tapping ticking noise is coming from the left side of the motor but I discovered it is coming right from the spark plug. The spark plug wire was wiggling around bouncing up and down (the part that covers the spark plug) it acts as if it is loose. I can spin it all around and it kinda feels like the spark plug is moving. I can't get the plug off. I tried pulling and pulling but it wont come off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Thanks for your help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a woman and before I take it to a mechanic I would like a little insight on what it could be. I don't want to be told I need a whole new motor if I really don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19089" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T18:11:42.733" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:11:42.733" Title="2002 Pontiac Sunfire" Tags="|noise|troubleshooting|pontiac|sunfire|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T17:45:47.427" Score="5" ViewCount="7363" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an '05 A3 with a 2.0 TDI BKD engine, about 120k miles on it. The sound starts when I move the key to the ON position, without starting the engine. But even with the engine on, it's still there, and it stops about 10-20 seconds after I remove the key. What could cause this? Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://streamable.com/s49p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video of the sound&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19088" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:43:27.320" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T16:11:53.360" Title="Buzzing sound coming from Audi A3 2.0 TDI engine" Tags="|noise|diesel|audi|a3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31844" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:12:51.620" Score="4" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never applied grease to my trailer hook. As a result, it looks like this : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckeqQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckeqQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A rather rusty trailer hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told that I should not grease it (something to do with the friction being important for... something?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that many people do grease theirs, and then cover it with a cap, or tennis ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google search reveals a wide variety of fairly strong opinions on this apparently innocuous subject. What is the correct treatment, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19086" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T15:44:59.603" Title="Should I apply grease to my trailer hook?" Tags="|trailer|grease|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31815" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:32:08.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you should be fine with brake cleaner, but I'd recommend trying Simple Green or some other less-toxic degreaser first. I've had good luck with Oil-Flo Safety Solvent on aluminum rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:32:08.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31842" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:37:32.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;besides the fact that the grease will be messy and get all over everything, the only reason I have seen is that sometimes grease or anti-seize can interfere with a ground connection if there isn't a good ground wire to the trailer lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:37:32.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31851" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:39:19.787" Score="2" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to install clip on bars on my bike, however I have encountered a problem. If I install them in the traditional under the triple clamps position, they may lack clearance from the tank and headlight bracket. Another option would be to install them above the triple clamp as there is part of the fork sticking out &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would this be viable? (the protrusion is approximately 1cm high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so would and adhesive (i.e Loctite) be necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike in question: MV Agusta Brutale 675, MY 2014. Forks diameter: 50mm. Clip ons: Tomaselli, 50mm (subject to change)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T02:19:53.010" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T02:19:53.010" Title="Installing clip on bars, limited space available. Will an adhesive be neccesary?" Tags="|motorcycle|steering|parts|installation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31827" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:50:10.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of teeth in a sprocket is constrained by the radius of the sprocket.  Assuming a standard link distance (for bicycle chain) of 1/2 inch, the radius is some number based on n where n is an integer multiple of 1/2 inch lengths. Since circumference is 2*pi*r, the relationship 1/2*n = 2*pi*r must hold.  Solving for r, r = 1/4 * n / pi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus for the series n = 18,19,20...,43,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;inches           n&#xA;1.432394488      18&#xA;1.511971959      19&#xA;1.591549431      20&#xA;1.671126902      21&#xA;1.750704374      22&#xA;1.830281846      23&#xA;1.909859317      24&#xA;1.989436789      25&#xA;2.06901426       26&#xA;2.148591732      27&#xA;2.228169203      28&#xA;2.307746675      29&#xA;2.387324146      30&#xA;2.466901618      31&#xA;2.546479089      32&#xA;2.626056561      33&#xA;2.705634033      34&#xA;2.785211504      35&#xA;2.86478897       36&#xA;2.944366447      37&#xA;3.023943919      38&#xA;3.10352139       39&#xA;3.183098862      40&#xA;3.262676333      41&#xA;3.342253805      42&#xA;3.421831276      43&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T13:47:14.803" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T13:47:14.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31802" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:01:22.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the Probe in particular, but I know some cars have a crankshaft position sensor that tells the ECU that the engine is turning over, and they won't turn on the fuel pump if they aren't getting a signal from that sensor. I'd also recommend checking your relays. Since it was an intermittent fault I'd suspect relays before fuses, but fuses can become cracked and intermittent too, especially if they're old. You might want to try swapping any fuses related to the fuel pump or ECU if there are any other fuses in the block that have the same rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T19:01:22.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31796" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:17:07.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've picked up a pretty massive dent in your tank. Can you see underneath it well enough to determine if this is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T19:17:07.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31730" CreationDate="2016-06-16T19:51:09.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pre-ignition , maybe. What octane gasoline is it supposed to take, and what are you putting in it? Pre-ignition generally ticks when you put the engine under load, especially going up a hill, or &quot;putting your foot&quot; in the gas pedal. If the car is supposed to be run with 91 or 93 octane fuel, and you're using 87 that could cause pre-ignition and a ticking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6787" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T19:51:09.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:53:55.000" Score="5" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a Pontiac LeMans 1988, and I want repaint my car.&#xA;I have looked all over my car and I can't find the lower color code for my car. On the label of the service parts identification is only inscription: BASE/CLEAR COAT ENAMEL U9511.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfddn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfddn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the lower color code on my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any info on this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T15:13:46.370" Title="Paint Code - LeMans 1988" Tags="|paint|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31845" CreationDate="2016-06-16T22:00:03.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's possibly viable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 1cm of fork that is available to mount a clip-on to is a concern&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Locktite will not make it any safer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how invested you are in clip-on's you could use standard cafe bike handlebars and mount them to your risers just like current handlebars are mounted.  Back in the 80's we used to just flip handlebars over in many cases to turn our bikes into cafe style rides.  This would obviously not work on your motorcycle because of the shape of your handlebars but you could procure some cafe style handlebars and attempt to use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to get clip-on handlebars and modify the mount that attaches to the fork in order to get the clearance required between the headlight mount and the fork.  You could have the bracket machined to slip in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clip on manufacturers use double sided pinch components that do not require you to slide the fork out of the top triple clamp.  Basically they are NOT clam-shell style and have the pinch bolts on either side of the bracket rather than on one side.  Woodcraft comes to mind as a manufacturer that accommodates this configuration.  Most racing clip-on's conform to this style as it is much quicker to replace broken clip-on's if you don't have to slide the fork down in the triple tree to mount them onto the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image of Woodcraft clip-on's&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTph6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTph6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how you can split the mount in two.  As well, the Woodcraft have a very thin gap and may just slide between the headlight mount and the fork on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Opinion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO you will want to find a way to mount clip-on's below the top triple clamp.  This will be a much safer configuration.  The last thing you need under heavy braking is the mount spinning on the fork creating a potentially unsafe situation for yourself.  You will want the entire clip-on mount grabbing the fork to prevent slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T22:00:03.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T22:05:49.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;1999 nissan altima.  Battery and brake light came , had it tested at o'riley alternator tested bad voltage regulator. Replaced with rebuilt alternator. Cranked car, lights are off everything is good till I crank car again, lights are back on. Went back to o'Riley and rebuilt alternator tested bad 12.4 volt output.  They gave me another alternator but my question is did I just get a bad alternator or is there something frying them? Does anybody have any ideas of what I could check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19098" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T22:18:19.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T22:19:52.297" Title="Bad voltage regulator?" Tags="|nissan|alternator|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31852" CreationDate="2016-06-16T22:19:52.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There'd be no way to tell for sure if something was frying them, but would suggest to you this would be highly unlikely. &lt;strong&gt;It is completely within reason for the rebuilt alternator to have gone bad&lt;/strong&gt; ... that's why they have a warranty. Yes, it's a PITB to take on and off, but at least it didn't cost you anymore than an extra trip to the store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T22:19:52.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2016-06-16T22:36:06.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first number represents the viscosity at low temperature. The second number represents the viscosity at 100C(212F). The W represents winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The API service classes have two general classifications: S for &quot;service/spark ignition&quot; (typical passenger cars and light trucks using gasoline engines), and C for &quot;commercial/compression ignition&quot; (typical diesel equipment)-Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T22:36:06.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T22:38:17.393" Score="6" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of swapping out the rear driver side quarter window regulator on my 2003 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. I've removed the glass and the regulator. I've purchased the new regulator and am ready to put it in. However, I just realized I am somehow missing one of the little plastic &lt;strong&gt;threaded&lt;/strong&gt; washers that goes against the glass. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XSmaz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XSmaz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Little plastic washer that goes against the glass window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m34JM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m34JM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture found online showing the glass window with washers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I get a replacement? I don't even know what the part is actually called in order to buy one online if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to be called a &quot;glass to lift plate bushing&quot;, it's a 2-part bushing. I do have the other part. Looks like a black plastic t-nut that screws into the middle of this white plastic piece. Then the screw from the window regulator screws into the black t-nut to hold everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=571830&amp;amp;ukey_model=15475&amp;amp;ukey_modelrange=0&amp;amp;ukey_make=1061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Factory Chrysler Parts&quot;&gt;Factory Chrysler Parts&lt;/a&gt; and I think it might be piece 12 or 13, but I can't tell for sure. Don't really want to pay for the part and $10 for shipping just for it to be the wrong piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comment below. I will provide an answer to my question once the parts come in, and I verify exactly what it is. (Assuming I ordered the correct part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11003" LastEditorUserId="11003" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T16:06:03.347" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T21:48:43.113" Title="What is this quarter window part called, and how can I get a replacement?" Tags="|chrysler|window|sebring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T23:55:30.613" Score="4" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just noticed a bulge in the tire on the driver side of my car. It is a 2015 model and it has less than 10,000 miles on it. I am wondering if I need to change this ASAP or I can drive (about a 100-120 miles) to get home and do it there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d892E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d892E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19101" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T12:25:36.010" Title="Bulge in infiniti q50 driver's side bridge stone" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31858" CreationDate="2016-06-17T01:11:31.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a run-flat tire, so not as bad as a normal tire, but I'd drive to nearest dealership to get their advice. I wouldn't try 100 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:11:31.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31858" CreationDate="2016-06-17T01:30:07.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will run into these risks if you decide to take the car on a trip like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire may burst at highway speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It may deflate over the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steering may become shaky, if it is the front tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still want to take the risk, I would recommend you take the following precautions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive slowly, no more than 50 mph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check pressure a few times during the trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you can go to the dealer now, just do it. It does not take that much time and you will not save too much going to another dealership and the service may still be covered under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T02:18:21.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T02:18:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T05:47:34.563" Score="-1" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Went to mechanic a month ago and need sway bars and new brakes. The last two days it's been very difficult to steer when turning but my tires are fine and I just replace power steering fluid but I'm still having difficulties. Any ideas what could be wrong?&#xA;2001 Lexus es300&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19109" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T09:39:12.913" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T12:17:50.967" Title="Hard steering on 2001 Lexus ES300" Tags="|steering|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31865" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:37:36.647" Score="15" ViewCount="9842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking about this, from quite long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is speed always calculated from the front wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's just consider the following situation:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in a race, and you have given full throttle in 1st gear and you have ended up in a wheelie and for 2nd gear too. Let's assume your front wheel is in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, if you want to measure speed, then the rear wheel should be the correct one, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know, is there a specific reason why vehicle manufacturers measure speed from the front wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T15:27:20.683" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:27:20.683" Title="Why is the speed of a motorcycle measured at the front wheel?" Tags="|motorcycle|speedometer|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:54:10.463" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are pros and cons of each, remember you can easily spin or lock up the rear wheel, and in fact the rear wheel may be far less often at the correct speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the decision on this stems from physical connectivity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's much easier to connect from the front wheel to the odometer which is on the handlebars than to route from the rear wheel, up under the fuel tank, coping with handlebar movement etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is really that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T07:54:10.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:29:35.150" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not a rule of thumb that the Speedometer is connected to the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many Suzukies and hondas in my country that have the speedometer connected to the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Rory stated, the only reason I guess is due to the convenience factor since the front wheel is closer to the cockpit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T08:29:35.150" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:44:36.723" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front wheel is used in most cases with mechanical speedometers (though there are exceptions) because it's just easier (and probably cheaper) to couple the front wheel to the mechanism.&#xA;Additionally, a mechanical speedometer uses a cable. The longer it is, the less reliable and accurate it becomes, thus the speedometer takes the speed from the nearest wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more modern motorcycles with electronic speedometers the speed is taken from either front wheel, rear wheel, or the gearbox (which causes a bit of a problem when you use aftermarket parts to change ratios).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19112" LastEditorUserId="14491" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T12:03:57.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T12:03:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:47:17.393" Score="3" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citroen C4 2005, Petrol, UK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I managed to overwhelm my car (for the second time I've been having it, first time was about half an year go). What happened was I was at a rather busy stop traffic, trying to make a right. I did at least 30 KMh on first gear, maybe even more, with quite the steep acceleration (pretty much the same thing I did the first time). What was the outcome (apart from making the right as desired) was I overwhelmed my Engine Management System, and having the SERVICE light come on, as well as &quot;Engine management system faulty&quot; board computer warning. This then led to my speed limiter disabling as well (I use it more often than my head lights). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I know that I shouldn't have let this happen in the first place, but &lt;strong&gt;is there something I can do, after the fault occurred to help the system recover faster ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the car overnight helped my speed limiter come back online, and as far as I can remember, the entire thing cleared in few days, when it first happened, but for the now I still get the warning and the SERVICE light is still on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T09:21:01.650" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T09:21:01.650" Title="Overwhelming the Eng. management system, is there specific course of action to recover faster" Tags="|engine|cel|electronic-control-module|citroen|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31869" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:55:01.440" Score="9" ViewCount="1855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citroen C4 2005, Petrol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very rarely I happen to turn without braking properly and my forward momentum is quite high. In these situations I can feel the strain on my front wheels being very high. What happens occasionally is, my SERVICE light comes on for just a second, while the turning lasts and then when normal operations resume, the light goes off as if nothing happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions is, what exactly is being triggered here?  What system gets overwhelmed, and why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastEditorUserId="12299" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T17:03:54.963" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T17:03:54.963" Title="Sharp cornering is turning my Service light on for a second" Tags="|cel|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31868" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:26:17.947" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you are cornering so hard that you're pushing the oil in the sump to one side, away from the pickup pipe.  This temporarily means you're oil pump is sucking up air and you are starving your engine of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Competition cars are equipped with with baffled sumps or dry sump systems to prevent this happening.  In a standard road car, this type of cornering is best avoided if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T09:26:17.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:33:03.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my competition cars have had speedos, some of which didn't work at all.  I have never once been in a race and had time to take my eyes off what was happening around me to look at the dials.  This is why competition cars tend to equip their dashboards with bright lights which come on when attention is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The times a speedo is useful is during road use when speed limits must be observed.  If you are racing on the public road you are probably committing an offence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say, when I've got the wheels off the ground, I'm usually looking for where to land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T09:33:03.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31862" CreationDate="2016-06-17T12:17:50.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the belts on the front of the engine. It's likely you have a slipping power steering or accessory belt. The belt could have stretched, or the tensioner could have failed. Replacing a belt is usually pretty straightforward, replacing the tensioner is a little more involved. If the belt seems loose, you may be able to tighten it using a tensioner (possibly part of the power steering pump assembly, or a simple external pulley). I'd check YouTube for videos first, then possibly see if you can find a repair manual for your car if the videos don't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T12:17:50.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31877" CreationDate="2016-06-17T13:13:14.400" Score="12" ViewCount="140513" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C output temperature on my 2012 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country feels diminished, especially in the rear seats' A/C vents. So, I had the refrigerant drained, measured, and topped off (dealership did the work, free of charge), but I'm still unconvinced the A/C is cooling to spec. I have not yet measured the output temperature, but I'd like to know what to expect in a &quot;well-functioning&quot; system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research, it appears that a vent output temperature of 40°F to 45°F (4°C to 7°C) measured after driving for 10 minutes at 45+ mph would be reasonable on a 85°F (29.4°C) day with 70% relative humidity. Measurement would be taken from a console vent using a precise stick &amp;amp; dial thermometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this so? Are there tables that would provide better diagnostic guidance? Is there a particular thermometer known to be good at measuring vent outputs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T15:01:51.427" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T22:05:21.793" Title="What temperature should the A/C blow?" Tags="|ac|chrysler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31874" CreationDate="2016-06-17T15:13:11.563" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set these test conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine set to 1800 rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recirulation air direction on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan speed on low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windows up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temp set to max cold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air outlet to dash vents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle in the shade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run for at least ten minutes, longer on a hot day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take much longer on in hot weather or if the vehicle is parked in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure at least 3 inches into the center dash vent.&#xA;Temperature should be 40 to 42 deg F.&#xA;Higher fan speeds, resulting in high air volume, will result in higher vent temps.&#xA;Rear cabin systems are normally 10 degrees warmer because they have a larger volume of space to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system is limited on low side temp by a thermo-switch that turns the system off at 34 degrees F. This is located in the evaporator. Given less than perfect heat transfer to the air about 40 degrees at the vents is the best it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T05:47:44.123" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T05:47:44.123" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31850" CreationDate="2016-06-17T15:13:46.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take this with a grain of salt because I am nowhere near an expert on car color matching, but I'm not sure if that portion of your car will have a color code. That's more a kind of body moulding piece (door skirt? typically plastic) that would have been added on after the painting of the car. My suggestion would be to see if a local paint shop could match the color for you and mix up a spray paint to match. Nowadays, some shops have tools that pretty accurately match a paint just by scanning the existing color with a little computer device. Best of luck to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T15:13:46.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:13:39.107" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevrolet Impala (Base trim, 3.4L) and I recently purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00SM8R04Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap OBD2 Bluetooth reader.&lt;/a&gt; Unfortunately, Torque (Android app) isn't able to read data from this transmitter when connected to my Impala.  I tried it on my 2006 Ford Freestlye and it works very well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmitter lights up and looks like it is functioning properly, but I'm not able to read with the Torque app.  I tried another app and it gave a message saying &quot;Cannot query engine rpm.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really appreciate anyone who can tell me some troubleshooting steps.  Perhaps GM has a different sub-protocol or something that I don't know about.  I'm happy to add information if I left something out.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19008" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T17:45:51.820" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T17:45:51.820" Title="2005 Impala OBD2 not working right" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|impala|obd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:40:20.503" Score="3" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used car with 4 winters still on it, the two in the front are not going to work for winter, but the two at back have 90% of the tread left. Can I take the good ones off and replace them with good used all seasons and leave the toast winters in the front, until winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19124" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T14:48:43.090" Title="unmatching tire sets" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32215" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:45:07.923" Score="3" ViewCount="2258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just broken down. I am safe. My car has suddenly cut out and my instruments are frozen. The car will turn over but it refuses to start. My fuel gauge is stuck as well. My engine is cold so I do not know about the temperature gauge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/316A1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/316A1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is with the key removed from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn to run, with the warning light test I get NO emissions lamp or engine warning light. My odometer does not work either. I get a blank screen. I get the EPS lamp, the airbag light, the oil and battery lamp (when the keys are in the engine run position). The airbag lamp goes out after a while as in this photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23PUW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/23PUW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2003 Opel Agila 1.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. I do not have breakdown cover and I am miles from home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My clock and temperature display in the centre console does not turn on at all either and neither does the radio. It appears that no power is getting to them. My battery is fine I think as the car turns over. This happens no matter if the key is in or out of the ignition or what position the key is in the ignition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T19:53:33.080" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T19:53:33.080" Title="Need urgent help - car cut out and instruments frozen and will not start" Tags="|electronic-control-module|fuse|instrument|instrument-cluster|breakdown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31880" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:58:25.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think the winter tires won't last the following winter, then you should change them immediately. Winter tires will get decimated during summer conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also much less effective in warmer condition compared to all seasons, so if you would not run on a tire for its intended purpose, you should not drive on it when it is in sub-optimal conditions. Braking distance is affected by the type of tires and braking is one of the best safety features on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/driving-winter-tires-year-round&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article from Bridgestone, they describe it in a little bit more detail. There's more information if you follow the link, but this is the important bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WHY YOU SHOULDN'T USE WINTER TIRES YEAR-ROUND&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Winter tires are specially designed for cold temperatures and winter &#xA;  precipitation. Once it gets warm, you won't need deep tread depths to handle snow or biting edges for traction on ice. Here are some specific reasons why using winter tires year round is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Faster wear on warm, dry pavement&lt;/strong&gt; - the tread rubber of winter tires is considerably more flexible than that of all season and summer tires. That same pliable tread rubber that adds traction in winter will wear down quickly in warm temperatures. Summer and all-season tires are built to withstand warm temperatures, providing long wear life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decreased performance&lt;/strong&gt; - In warm weather, winter tires won't provide the same handling capabilities as summer or all-season tires. Imagine if you needed to make a quick maneuver and your tires were soft and squishy. You won't get the crisp response from a winter tire in warm weather. Winter tires need that flexibilitity to handle ice and snow, but it's not as useful in warm weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=52&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Put the best tires in the rear axel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When tires are replaced in pairs in situations like these, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the partially worn tires moved to the front. New tires on the rear axle help the driver more easily maintain control on wet roads since deeper treaded tires are better at resisting hydroplaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastEditorUserId="16358" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T17:44:39.017" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T17:44:39.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17415" CreationDate="2016-06-17T17:55:49.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the issue was that I had disconnected the battery while working on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer had apparently reset and I hadn't driven it long enough for it to reset/configure/whatevs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I drove it for half an hour straight, the engine started running normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10719" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T17:55:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T18:15:43.723" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Opel Meriva 2009 model. It produces clicking noise while accelerating above 100km/hr. When I drive in lesser speed no noise. Also, no noise while accelerating in idle or braking. Could you please help on what could be the potential problem here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19126" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T18:15:43.723" Title="Opel Meriva 2009 - Clicking noise" Tags="|acceleration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T18:53:24.050" Score="4" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an 05 Kia Spectra EX for my daughter. The engine is throwing a P0507 code which is Idle Air RPM greater than expected. I did some research and apparently this is a pretty generic code that can be caused by a variety of issues. Is there a best order to step through the various things that could be causing? I fear it is a vacuum leak which I'm not keen on chasing because I am not that experienced (but I am willing to learn) and it sounds like it can get really tricky trying to diagnose that particular cause. I do have the Haynes manual and I am comfortable underneath the hood even if I am not that experienced. As far as the engine behavior goes it definitely seems to be erratic, sometimes it idles high (even when having been operated for a while) and sometimes it idles at what seems to be a more appropriate RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19127" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T20:31:32.717" Title="Troubleshooting P0507 code on 05 KIA Spectra?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T19:27:48.243" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just changed my blend door actuator because my car would continuously blow really hot air and my boss said that could be the problem. After I changed it, put everything back together I added one can of a/c pro because I had no Freon in it at all. After I added the Freon it was still just hot air. So I cut my car off and started looking around and seen that the front of the clutch was leaking gas not oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can help me that would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s.  The air conditioning hasn't ran in a good while. At least 6+ months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19128" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T19:58:22.173" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T20:31:49.523" Title="A/C clutch 2000 grand marquis is leaking" Tags="|ac|pontiac|leak|grand-marquis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31885" CreationDate="2016-06-17T19:42:18.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely start with cleaning things before attempting to replace them. A simple solution may be to just clean your throttle body and idle air control valve (iac). Look at the air filter for large blockages just as an extra precaution. Take an overall glance at each intake piece to make sure nothing is disconnected, cracked, or broken and go from there. Hopefully you can find something simple before replacing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T19:42:18.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31886" CreationDate="2016-06-17T20:25:16.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description, its the front seal of the Air Conditioning (AC) compressor that is leaking.  And its not really clear on what causes that to leak, except excess shaft / internal bearing wear.  With that said, you could evacuate the system, pull the compressor, remove the A/C clutch, remove the seal and re-install a new one, but my guess it would be much less hassle (and likely cost) to just replace the entire A/C compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The A/C clutch has nothing to do with sealing refrigerant at all.  It only controls the ability to spin the compressor shaft or not, via a simple electro-magnetic pressure plate clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for the temperature blend door inside the passenger compartment, a simple test to verify it is shut is to measure the temperature of vent air (A/C off) at full cool setting, while car is moving, and after the car is warmed up for a few minutes.  Generally you would see a temperature of 5 to 7 degrees F over outside temperature, depending on your vehicle speed.  The extra heat comes from the engine compartment heating things up a bit. Best tool for that job is one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsieY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsieY.png&quot; alt=&quot;glass thermometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That tool is also handy for solving arguments about thermostat settings in the house.  Pays for itself in days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T20:31:49.523" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T20:31:49.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31885" CreationDate="2016-06-17T20:31:32.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that its intermittent does not rule out a vacuum leak but makes it less likely.&#xA;A common cause is failure of the idle air control valve (IAC). It can be tested by applying 12 volts to the center terminal #2 and then applying a ground to the outer terminals. It should open when #1 is grounded and close when #3 is grounded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T20:31:32.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:01:49.263" Score="4" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some preliminary information on the car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chevrolet Cobalt 2005&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;260k km milage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supposedly the engine was 'rebuilt' after 160k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rumbling noise (rough noise, much like an motorcycle sound) eminates from the car [generally] when stopped. It vibrates the car as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs in several different ways, usually depending on what you do first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the car is already running and you have been in motion, it almost always makes the sound when sitting idle in drive with the foot on the brake. If the brake is released and the car is allowed to roll forward, it disappears slightly, and if the gas is pressed it disappears similarly. If the car is put into neutral in this case, it completely stops as well, with a abrupt 'kachunk' sound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes, when slowing down the car from a fast speed, it makes the noise, though it is not known to have any correlation with the brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the car was parked, if the car is shifted into drive, it sometimes makes the sound then as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any clue what this might be? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19129" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T21:01:49.263" Title="Rumbling noise when going slow or stopped" Tags="|chevrolet|noise|cobalt|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:21:39.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speedometer is placed in the location that performs adequately well and that costs the manufacturer the least amount of money, and therefore generates the most profit.  Period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="11892" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T10:32:09.440" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T10:32:09.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T22:29:20.983" Score="4" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my '09 Nissan Titan I get a rough rumbling ride/sound from undercarriage when I get to 40 mph. I have lots of rust issues underneath and lots around the rear drive shaft. Worried that the drive shaft isn't rotating smoothly....what do you think might be giving off this grinding sound &amp;amp; feel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also hear a sound when I slowly make a left turn as though something is loose or going to fall off the front suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19131" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T22:45:01.450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T22:45:01.450" Title="Rough Undercarriage Ride" Tags="|nissan|suspension|titan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28141" CreationDate="2016-06-18T03:12:32.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 4 years ago, I bought a set of General Altimax RTs for my 2007 Camry. On a dangerous driving scale of 10=highest, I'd say I drive around a 7. Almost always 10-15MPH over the speed limit on freeway and aggressive starts. My Camry has a V6 which has more than enough power to spin the wheels if I try hard enough. With this said, 4 years later, those Generals have gotten a lot louder, but their tread (UTQG ~700) is hovering at about 5/32 which puts them at about 50% used up. Over 50K on the set with rotations about once every two years and a lifetime alignment check every year, these tires have far exceeded what I was expecting from a General Tire. The downside is they don't like it when it's raining out. Rain traction is nearly non-existent- have to granny throttle it. But on dry days - look out! 50K miles and likely will get 70K before finally going after another set - probably the newer RT43!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19136" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T03:12:32.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31797" CreationDate="2016-06-18T13:15:01.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because, as has been pointed out, the infernal combustion engine has dangerous byproducts - heat and poisonous gases, as well as noise - which need to be carried away from the persons using the vehicle. Society made a bad choice a century ago, and we live with the consequences to this day. Get an electric car and you won't have to replace your exhaust/tailpipe, ever. You'll still have to watch the speed-bumps, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19139" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T13:15:01.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31935" CreationDate="2016-06-18T13:20:29.457" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a used motorbike and am unsure of how to gauge the age/condition of its oil: Neither did I fill the oil in the first place (so I don't know what colour it used to be) nor have I got much experience in what motorcycle oil &quot;usually&quot; looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jAFps.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jAFps.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dipstick&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the photo above, the dipstick is wet up to the first &quot;ridge&quot;, and it is a dark albeit transparent caramel (but not black or opaque brown). Does the oil look to be in &quot;maintained&quot; condition?-- Should I simply wait until the next scheduled check-up to replace it (which is in about 500km anyway)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18995" LastEditorUserId="18995" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T13:44:20.597" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T17:52:57.963" Title="Checking oil on a newly-aquired used motorbike" Tags="|motorcycle|oil|maintenance|oil-change|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31880" CreationDate="2016-06-18T14:48:43.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will it work? Yeah... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that you'll cook the winter tires in the summer, and destroy them. I'd recommend getting some 3-season tires (4 of them) for the Summer, and when winter comes buy two new winter tires. You'll then have two complete sets of tires which are ideal for the uses you'll put them to, and you'll get a much longer life out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T14:48:43.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T14:53:36.497" Score="4" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently had the timing belt, water pump, all valves and rocker arms, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter changed on my 2006 Audi A3 8P 2.0 TDI 140.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had it back for two days now and it struggles to start when cold. Splutters a little when started warm but generally starts pretty quick. Any idea why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts are glow plugs or starter motor…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19141" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T19:45:20.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:45:20.857" Title="Diesel car struggles to start when cold" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|diesel|glowplugs|starter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5048" CreationDate="2016-06-18T14:53:52.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it's not painted – it gets too hot for paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other surfaces that can rust are usually covered in paint, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.com/Chrome_plating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chrome&lt;/a&gt; or other coating (even the car's underside) to seal the iron from the corrosive environment of this planet – rust will also develop if you scratch the paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBoPy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBoPy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratched paint with rust&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;em&gt;stainless steel&lt;/em&gt; doesn't need paint. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DeLorean_DMC-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeLorean DMC-12&lt;/a&gt; had unpainted stainless steel body panels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXLc7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXLc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why stainless steel exhaust pipes don't seem to make economical sense, I don't know, but there are aftermarket parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19140" LastEditorUserId="19140" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T18:04:54.990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T18:04:54.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T16:00:27.067" Score="3" ViewCount="6696" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today while adding coolant to my car, I noticed that once the car reached running temperature only the fan on the passenger side had turned on. I checked the connection and that was fine, the fuses were also fine. Is this normal or should I look at replacing the fan motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Infinity I35 V6 3.5L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6493" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T16:08:44.437" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T17:33:20.360" Title="Only one radiator fan running" Tags="|cooling-system|fan|infiniti|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T17:33:11.453" Score="8" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased the Zubie Car Hotspot from Verizon that connects to the OBD port on a car. I have mine connected to the Tesla Model X, unfortunately I need the connection to remain always on but the Zubie shuts off after 15 minutes when the car turns off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my testing, the Zubie will remain powered when the car is charging so perhaps it shuts off based on voltage? Such as when the Tesla DC to DC converter turns on/off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if it is possible to keep it always powered? Can I power it externally? If so, which pins? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19144" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T04:05:37.247" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T09:02:25.393" Title="OBD Accessory External Power Supply" Tags="|obd-ii|electronics|tesla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31902" CreationDate="2016-06-18T17:33:20.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Engine Control Module has multiple outputs to control at least 3 different relays that control the two fans on the radiator/condenser area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each fan has 4 wires, and a HI and LO speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact control strategy I could not discover, but the ECU uses a variety of input signals and internal variables to determine how much &quot;fan&quot; should be turned on for each occasion.  Speed, coolant temperature, air temperature, and air conditioning inputs are used to operate the fans in a thermal control strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T17:33:20.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2016-06-18T17:43:34.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pump runs dry and will burn up if still turning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt then tries to seize and will also burn up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get about 2 qts of fluid and keep refilling it..$6 for fluid is way better than $200 for parts. Safety aspect also..huge consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19145" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T12:03:30.840" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T12:03:30.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T18:26:43.530" Score="6" ViewCount="3032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering, whenever I visit any site it says pump the brake pedal three times then keep pressing it, what is the actual benefit of pumping it? And why not just press down the brake pedal and then open the bleeder screw without pumping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11366" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T20:29:56.827" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T15:06:49.187" Title="Why is it necessary to pump the brakes while bleeding them?" Tags="|brakes|bleeding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T19:51:18.207" Score="2" ViewCount="2882" Body="&lt;p&gt;So recently my brake( rear driver side) has been making a really loud Clicking/Groaning sound, sorry that is the best I can explain the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens after driving for a while and the sound appears when I apply a certain amount of pressure on the brakes if I apply a little or a lot it doesn't make the noise. Also like I said in the title it makes the sound only when the car is below 20kmh or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to see if this was a easy fix before I go to get it checked and throw away more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and my cars a 2013 hyundai accent with ~58000km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Oh i noticed that the applying pressure part might be confusing what i mean is, If i step really hard on the pedal it won't make it and if it is just lightly it also won't make it, but at a normal braking speed it is really loud&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19147" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T20:49:08.847" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T18:43:26.287" Title="Loud Clicking/Groaning sound when braking at low speed" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|noise|accent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:10:15.863" Score="1" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my Nissan pick-up truck to the smog station, and this code appeared. This made it fail the smog test. What can I do to fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19149" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T20:10:15.863" Title="Troubleshooting PO705 code on 1996 Nissan pick-up truck 2.4 liter engine" Tags="|engine|nissan|truck|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:21:29.043" Score="8" ViewCount="3233" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took my 02 Honda Accord in for its last service (not Honda) I had a very bad vibration in the steering wheel when braking which was obviously brake related. The shop told me that the front rotors were warped and when they checked their records they saw that these rotors had previously been replaced by them and were still under warranty.  Thus no charge for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast forward to now, and about ready to go in for the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; regular service and in the last month I have noticed that the car is developing a similar vibration as per before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned that the same symptoms are coming back so soon&#xA;(after less than 4000 miles with around 140k on the clock)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there other explanations to a vibration in the steering wheel&#xA;    that changes proportionally with speed (and &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; occurs when braking)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I approach my repair shop with other than &quot;There is vibration&#xA;    in the steering wheel when braking, again&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW my car is driven occasionally around town, but mainly I tend to use it a lot more for 200 mile trips of continuous freeway driving at 70+ mph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19148" LastEditorUserId="19148" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T20:51:42.400" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T16:53:14.150" Title="Warped disc rotors again?" Tags="|honda|brake-rotor|vibration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31863" CreationDate="2016-06-19T02:24:09.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a thought: Most cars have rear-wheel drive.  Therefore, in most cars, measuring speed from rotation of the front wheel(s) is more reliable because the front wheels should only be able to spin if the car is in forward motion.  In contrast, the rotation of the rear wheels is driven by the engine and need not reflect the actual motion of the car - they could be 'just spinning' [examples: stuck in mud; skidding on ice].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19154" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T02:24:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31916" CreationDate="2016-06-19T02:44:44.110" Score="4" ViewCount="3345" Body="&lt;p&gt;By watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/lnhPx6FhyR0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the video I've taken&lt;/a&gt;, can you tell what component is causing this grinding noise? Someone suggested it might be the harmonic stabilizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Known issues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discovered low power steering reservoir, haven't noticed level go down since filling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering fluid found under car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recharged AC after the winter, isn't as cold as it used to be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing RPM will increase pitch of grinding noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ticking noise is probably a timing chain tensor I have to replace. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tested good&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning wheel, to test power steering, doesn't change the sound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not over heating, indicating good water pump?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car voltage tested good, indicating good alternator and battery &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pulley diagram&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDklL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDklL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19153" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T05:18:40.830" Title="Identifying sound from pulleys to replace appropriate part - 2006 Altima 3.5" Tags="|nissan|troubleshooting|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31917" CreationDate="2016-06-19T03:14:30.763" Score="3" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while when I would first turn on the car and the AC, the wheel on the compressor did not start spinning immediately. The air is blowing in the car, but it is hotter than the ambient temperature. The wheel would only start spinning after about 10 minutes after the AC and engine was turned on, at which point it would work fine and produce cold air. Once it started, it wouldn't stop. However, now it's even worse. It still takes about 10 minutes for the wheel to start spinning, but now it only stays on as long as I'm pressing the gas pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added refrigerant so that is not the cause. Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19155" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T05:59:36.203" Title="2002 Mazda B2300 compressor trouble" Tags="|ac|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31906" CreationDate="2016-06-19T04:51:53.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have positive pressure in the brake lines to get rid of any air; the pumping ensures you've built up enough pressure.  And if the other sites you've read didn't mention it, you repeat the process (pump, hold, loosen bleeder valve while maintaining pressure on the pedal, close bleeder valve) until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out; that is the sign all the air is gone.  And you can definitely tell the difference by the sound of the fluid coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T04:51:53.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31912" CreationDate="2016-06-19T05:18:40.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a stethoscope or a screw driver or similar that you can use as one. Pull the belt off, put some tension on one pulley at a time and spin them by hand any roughness indicates bearing/bushing failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably rule out the compressor pulley as the noise doesn't change as the clutch engages. Idler pulleys are the most likely to fail first. A water pump has a deeper sound when they go bad and usually leak. It doesn't really sound like a harmonic balancer either, usually when they go bad the rubber will separate and cause a screeching sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably end up being the alternator or idler pulley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T05:18:40.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31914" CreationDate="2016-06-19T05:30:10.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two areas of concern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1). It's possible you've got too much refrigerant in there and it's messing up the pressure bad. What makes me think that is the ten minute delay. I believe that as air passes through the condenser the refrigant cools down and the pressure reduces enough to allow clutch engagement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know for sure is to conduct a performance test.  You need stopwatch for clutch on off times, pressure gauges on both sides of compressor (suction and discharge hoses) and a thermometer.   You will run the car at a given rpm. Max A/C mode full blower.  Match your output against test standard for you make / model of vehicle at given ambient temperature. You will need the service manual for your car to know the right pressures for both suction and discharge gauges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2). It's also possible the air conditioning clutch is not working correctly. That plate sits on three flat springs and an electromagnet coil pulls plate to spinning pulley to start the compressor spinning. It's possible one or two of those springs is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another critical component of the clutch is the air gap between the plate and the pulley. That characteristic is critical. If the gap is too big the plate slips (and gets way hot). If the gap is too small the plate sometimes gets stuck on the spinning pulley and won't disengage.   With car off and keys safely in your pocket take feeler gauges and measure that gap. I think the spec is 0.7 to 1mm but I'm not positive. Check your service manual for the right specification for your vehicle.   Apparently there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cpsproducts.com/site/elements/download/pdfs/%2373-007%20ac10868a.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;many different air gaps used depending on A/C compressor.&lt;/a&gt;  The air gap is set with a stack of shims / washers under the clutch plate mounting hub at the compressor main shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong recommendation for you is to buy the Chilton or Haynes service manual for your vehicle. $30 well spent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T05:59:36.203" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T05:59:36.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36239" CreationDate="2016-06-19T11:20:24.097" Score="4" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought some new fairing from China. When trying to fit the headlight to the front centre cowl, it appears that the holes for the screws are too small by a fraction. Also, in the old cowl, they have a metal fitting into which the screws are seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my new fairing a dud, or am I expected to cut my own thread into the molding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I buy some new of these metal fittings, and when they arrive, they'll actually fit and make it work by magic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Old Cowl&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notice the metal inner to where the screws are seated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXGkk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXGkk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jd8c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jd8c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Headlight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyCbk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyCbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headlight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdOdS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdOdS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headlight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The New Cowl&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No metal inner, and a fraction too small&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7PHy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7PHy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvbEg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvbEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w1eDb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w1eDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Onmll.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Onmll.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new cowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T11:15:21.937" Title="New fairing from China - front centre cowl - screws don't fit" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8760" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:20:00.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never have drained the gas out of mine,i have always exercised them at least twice a year once in the spring then once when the cold weather starts coming in the bowls on the carb are still clean,then top the oil off and gas too add some stabilizer and wait for the next outage so far so good,and they have always started when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19162" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T13:20:00.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24547" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:34:19.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Locally worse, globally better&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel exhaust versus gasoline:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;about 15-20 % less CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;about 4-100 times the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOx&quot;&gt;NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (highly temperature dependent, mitigated by proper use of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_exhaust_fluid&quot;&gt;diesel exhaust fluid&lt;/a&gt;, ref the VW scandal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and a fair amount of soot (esp. before common rail, mitigated by a particle filter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means for the &lt;strong&gt;local environment&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Local CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; is the least of problems, just good for the plants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; is the primary concern for lung illness in smoggy areas. It also creates acid rain (which can be a bit less local).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People don't like to inhale soot either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means for the &lt;strong&gt;global environment&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; = save the climate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NO&lt;sub&gt;x&lt;/sub&gt; breaks down methane, a strong greenhouse gas. So much so that &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOx&quot;&gt;ship emissions are estimated to have a net global cooling effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soot is probably not such a problem on the global scale yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19140" LastEditorUserId="19140" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T14:41:46.560" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T14:41:46.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T15:51:54.587" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so im having a problem that been happening for about 3 weeks. At one time we were at the movie drive in and my car died after 10min. Lights were all coming on and it would make several clicking sounds when you tried to turn it over. Did it again an hour later. Had to get a jump by movie workers (twice). Then it happened a few days later. We thought it was my alternator. Switched it out since i had warranty. Still the same. Thought it was my battery but it had 100% charge. Changed the terminals and it seemed to be the problem. Til yesterday... It was dying on us just sitting at pizza hut waiting for our food. We got it home as soon as we did it died and didnt turn on. We got a jump several hours later.. On our way to my moms it died at a stop light. Tried turning it over but the lights were dimmed out almost completely and it wasnt even making that clicking noise. Got a jump and as soon as i put it in R it died again. Got a jump let it sit n charge a bit and gt the car home. Now it turns on like nothing happened. &lt;strong&gt;while at pizza hut.. Stepping on the gas and lettin it go the battery light would come on but if we didnt the light didnt show&lt;/strong&gt; SOMEONE please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T16:53:47.920" Title="LEXUS ES300 '99" Tags="|battery|ignition|alternator|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31929" CreationDate="2016-06-19T16:53:47.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there may be one or two things happening here (but this is more of a gut check than anything):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The serpentine belt is worn out, causing the battery not to charge the battery correctly. Usually if the belt is getting worn out, it will cause a chirping sound when it slips, but if the belt is worn and glazed, it could be slipping without you even knowing it, causing a loss in electrical charging ability, and thus allowing your battery to go flat. The jump and subsequent running at a normal level allows it to recharge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The spring in the tensioner may be weak, causing the same issue as described above. I'm not sure on your specific vehicle, but there could be a tension gauge consisting of an arrow which will point inside a range. This will show if the belt has stretched, but will also show if the spring is weak. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering what you said about the dash lights coming on after a rev, I'm thinking scenario #2 is the most likely. This indicates to me the belt may be slipping across the alternator after a rev, which does not allow for proper charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T16:53:47.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2016-06-19T17:24:05.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duct tape worked for me for about 45 minutes on the highway... and I duct taped inside bottom and top. To the actually car itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going with the suction cups idea. Seems to last longer. Someone has been using it for 2 years! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19167" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T17:24:05.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33394" CreationDate="2016-06-19T17:42:17.657" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2007 Escalade with 160k miles. The car runs great normally, but when the weather gets hot, an array of warning lights will come on from time to time, the power will drop for a moment (radio stops, etc. for less than 1 second) and we resume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally however, when I get home, I'll get back in and no electric - can't turn it over, no interior lights, running boards stay down (they are electric). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, if I move the battery terminals around and climb back in the car, things start back up no problem. Mechanic says the terminals look fine and the battery checked out. Is there anything else it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19168" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:31:22.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:36:07.800" Title="Intermittent power failure in hot weather 2007 Escalade" Tags="|electrical|starting|troubleshooting|cadillac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T17:50:31.077" Score="4" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '05 Santa Fe with the 2.7L engine that won't start. I bought it this way. Was told that car died and was towed home. Found that alternator was bad. While they were replacing alternator they sparked the ratchet against the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms: cranks but no start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checked fuel pressure. Good. (Also tried a little starting fluid still no go)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noid light tested injectors: good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark tested the coil pack. Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested all relays and fuses. Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulled ECU to check for moistened or shorts. No noticeable signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulled the top cover of timing belt loose to verify belt didn't snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next thinking about pulling all covers to check timing marks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19169" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:41:48.270" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:41:48.270" Title="2005 Hyundai Santa Fe Won't Start" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|hyundai|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31898" CreationDate="2016-06-19T17:52:57.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just do the maintenance 500km early. it doesn't have to be all that precisely on the intervals. it's s good way to get more familiar with the new bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always do a full oil change I'm taking possession of s new bike, since there is no economic way to know when it was last changed, or with what. getting the oil tested can be done, but it costs as much as an oil change anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T17:52:57.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31856" CreationDate="2016-06-19T21:48:43.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in my update to my question, I'm fairly certain it is a &quot;glass to lift plate bushing&quot;, it's a 2-part bushing. Looks like a black plastic t-nut that screws into the middle of this white plastic piece. Then the screw from the window regulator screws into the black t-nut to hold everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned I was going to purchase one from Factory Chrysler Parts, but I have cancelled that order. So I won't be able to find out exactly the name from that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I found 2 nylon washers of about the same size, that when placed together have about the same thickness. I have placed this against the window and put everything back together. Everything seems to be working great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T21:48:43.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T21:50:40.547" Score="4" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;the wind is blowing another way but there is a fire near house. cleared all cars in the driveway but there is an abodoned semi parking near the house wondering how to start it. It should be like a car but im just making sure. I am not sure how the parking brake works either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9A3uE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9A3uE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2bLK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2bLK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lld9W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lld9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15954" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:58:00.060" Title="how to start a semi?" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T22:38:26.983" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a 2005 Wrangler with 35x12.5r16 tires, need to get new tires and can't seem to find the size (all say r15 or r17) - so what do I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19173" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:50:32.773" Title="Current mud tires 35x12.5r15 - can't seem to find the size (all say r15 or r17) - so what do I do now?" Tags="|tires|jeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T23:19:41.587" Score="-2" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's is oil appearing in the engine coolant,  does this mean i have to buy a  new engine? The car is a 2003 Ford Focus with 180k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19175" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T13:20:59.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T13:20:59.823" Title="Engine oil in coolant" Tags="|engine|ford|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31941" CreationDate="2016-06-19T23:38:50.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the cause of the fluids mixing: buying a new engine would be the most extreme of the possible repairs. The simplest repair for this would likely be a gasket replacement, which may still be quite costly, since (for example) head gaskets require taking apart most of the engine to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:38:50.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31938" CreationDate="2016-06-19T23:58:00.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should start similar to a car.  There may be a push button to start, but most trucks don't have that anymore.   The knob marked tractor will release the brakes as soon as their pressure builds up to around 90.  Drives similar to manual car. Leave the small lever on the shifter in the downward position.  Reverse is towards the steering wheel and then straight back for 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:58:00.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:06:45.443" Score="7" ViewCount="19380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon [legally] releasing some pressure from a car's (model year 2000) over-charged AC refrigerant loop that uses R-134A refrigerant, some of the released fluid surprisingly stayed liquid at room temperature. It is indeed some sort of clear oil, although it smells odd, like it could contain fluorine. Is it normal for air conditioning loops to contain oil in them? Does R-134A nominally contain some sort of oil required by the compressor or other component, or something to enhance condensation? Or does this indicate failure of a component? I would think that a refrigerant loop should only contain things that are gaseous at room temperature and pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19177" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T18:58:46.780" Title="Does R-134A refrigerant normally have oil (liquid at room temperature) in it?" Tags="|oil|ac|r134a|condenser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31944" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:17:10.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is oil in the system to keep the compressor lubricated.  It is carried throughout the system in the refrigerant.  It is usually added in when the system is charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:17:10.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31941" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:32:09.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't necessarily mean you need to buy a new engine. Although if you don't get it seen to, you will be in the market for one soon enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, as @user3188168 said, it's quite likely that it's the head gasket that's split, allowing some oil into the cooling system. The head gasket will need changing, and your radiator will need a flush out as well as the rest of the coolant galleries in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more severe scenario, your head itself may be split (I have seen a few duratech 2.0's do this). In that case, you'll need a new head. More expensive for sure, but still repairable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But basically, a new engine is only needed in the event of catastrophic failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:32:09.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2016-06-20T02:30:47.693" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason that I use D3 is to hold the car in a lower gear while I squeal the tires taking some corners at 9/10s.  D3 is also for when you want your car to remain 'on boil' while you wring its neck. For those who enjoy a car that handles well, Hondas are a great choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19178" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:30:38.247" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:30:38.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T04:35:15.880" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a honda civic 2005, is getting overheat, the radiator is almost empty, but the reservoir container is over the top; when I stop on a traffic light the temperature gauge is slowly goes up, but when I move, it goes down. the radiator is getting empty but the it doesn't go anywhere but the reservoir. how can I fix this???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19180" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T06:57:54.970" Title="honda civic 2005 overheating" Tags="|radiator|overheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T04:36:47.063" Score="6" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at upgrading the brakes on my vehicle with a larger set. As such, I'm looking at calipers and came across a set that were rebuilt. Specifically, the calipers have had helicoils installed on some mount holes, and some bleed screws were drilled out and replaced with repair kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really know what this means other than it indicates that the calipers were in rough shape at some point. Are there any concerns or compromises in performance that would be evident from calipers that had undergone repairs like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T13:08:23.427" Title="What is compromised with rebuilt calipers?" Tags="|brakes|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31949" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:55:49.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because the callipers have had a rebuild does not necessarily mean that they were abused previously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes as a component are prone to some of the worst wear of any component in the car. Not only do they go through tremendous heat cycles, the various chemicals in the brake pads can eventually eat at the aluminium that many callipers are made from. They get hit by debris from the road, often submerge in water, get coated in mud... etc etc. Over time they deteriorate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a few hassles so far with the bleed nipples on my track car breaking... They do that when they're old. Getting them out usually requires a lot of hassle, as they are a much stronger material than the calliper, so you usually end up having to tap them with new threads.&#xA;Same with the mounting holes, though that does sound more like someone cross-threaded them when installing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, if they've been repaired it should be OK. I would possibly see if you could find out &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; the work was done, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem on a road car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though to be fair, I wouldn't run brake parts held on with helicoils on my racecar, as the forces involved are much higher than in a normal road application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastEditorUserId="15923" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T13:08:23.427" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T13:08:23.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31948" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:57:54.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This era of Honda Civics are commonly reported to blow their head gaskets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your radiator is getting empty, it's likely all going into the cylinders. Check your oil immediately, and see if it's milky/muddy. If so, get the car booked in for repairs, driving it with a blown head gasket can lead to catastrophic failure of the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T06:57:54.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T07:16:10.867" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good day,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please assist with my car, when driving gear 1 and 2 does not have power. I have change the plucks and the ring gears two months ago and it was fine. Now gear 1 and 2 does not have power again, what might be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19181" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T08:37:45.100" Title="Golf 3 1992 Model" Tags="|vw|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31952" CreationDate="2016-06-20T08:37:45.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 1997 Golf 3 exhibited very poor running and lack of power.  Changing the plugs temporarily fixed the running but then poor running returned.  We tracked this back to the rotor arm which had become brittle and actually broke off in my hand.  A few months later still, poor running returned and this was rectified by replacing the HT (ignition) leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the problem was the same as ours. If you replace the rotor arm, distributor cap and ignition leads this should solve the issue.  These cars can have problems with their coil packs but typically this stops the car from running at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T08:37:45.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31958" CreationDate="2016-06-20T08:58:33.177" Score="5" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at buying a manual 2000 Honda Civic SR 1.6L for cheap.  The seller says a mechanic told them that one cylinder isn't working, but the car still drives.  I haven't seen the car yet, but I &lt;strong&gt;assume&lt;/strong&gt; this means some kind of severe compression problem in that single cylinder, and not something catastrophic like a broken rod since it's still drivable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what could cause a single cylinder to be &quot;not working&quot; but the car is still drivable.  The things I can think of are a blown head gasket or a severely burnt valve.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure if it's worth me going to see.  From the pictures the car looks to be in mint condition from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T09:44:45.293" Title="What are the potential causes of a single cylinder loosing compression?" Tags="|buying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T09:20:05.770" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I mix Dexron 2 &amp;amp; 3 Power steering fluids in the system? on my 1959 Mk 9 Jaguar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19183" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:52:08.177" Title="Jaguar Mk 9,Power steering" Tags="|maintenance|jaguar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31956" CreationDate="2016-06-20T09:44:45.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides compression it could be fuel supply (clogged or failed injector), a bad spark plug or cable, a problem with the ignition system, a loose cam cover, and other things. As you say if it was a bad rod or cam it would probably not run at all, although you never know. If you assume that the mechanic would have checked the basics like spark then what's left is expensive and/or time consuming to fix, however it may be the seller has not spent money on getting it looked at so it could be something simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is there's no way to really know without doing some diagnostics, like a compression check and plugging into the ECU. If it's close then have a look, you aren't under any obligation to buy it if you see it. If it's far away then you need to make a judgement based on the information you have. For me buying a car is as much an assessment of the owner as the car itself. If the owner is a yahoo or nutcase it puts me off the car no matter its apparent condition, so your communications with the owner could be used as a guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not ask the seller to put you in contact with the mechanic? It's a slim chance but you'd get useful information. If the seller refuses that tells you all you need to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T09:44:45.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31940" CreationDate="2016-06-20T10:02:10.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search states that Maxxis manufacture a type known as the Creepy Crawler M8090 in 35x12.5 R16.  I would assume other manufacturers produce similar tyres in the same size.  Within the UK, there are a number of these available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching Amazon just for the tyre size (search criteria &quot;35/12.50R16&quot;) turned up an alternative compatible product, a &quot;Super Swamper&quot; as it's very first result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confident that you should be able to locate a supplier for this size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your alternative is probably to change the wheels and tyres at the same time to an alternative size (that maintains an equivalent rolling radius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T10:02:10.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T10:16:16.700" Score="3" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota Corolla 2014 Altis auto door lock has not been worked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3438/electric-central-door-lock-does-not-work-with-automatic-transmission-shifting-to&quot;&gt;Electric central door lock does not work with automatic transmission shifting to and from “Park”&lt;/a&gt; and also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tcorolla.net/automatic_door_locking_and_unlocking_systems-60.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota Corolla Owners Manual: Automatic door locking and unlocking systems&lt;/a&gt;. I follow the instruction in the user manual, However, I couldn't set this option on my cars anyways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Automatic-Door-Lock-Closing-CANBUS-OBD-system-For-TOYOTA-New-Vios-Corolla-RAV4-Car-speed-lock/701329_607485835.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Automatic Door Lock Closing CANBUS OBD system suitable For New Vios Corolla&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pakwheels.com/accessories/toyota-auto-door-lock-obd-2-priusaquavitz-grandealtis-1490296&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota Auto Door Lock OBD&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not sure that is compatible with my car and it's very hard to buy those &lt;code&gt;OBD&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The central door lock works correctly with remote key and also with driver's door lock switch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My car's gearbox is &lt;code&gt;AT&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, according to @Ben Answer I research for configuring the &lt;code&gt;Auto Door Lock&lt;/code&gt; on the ECU. So after I googled I found these videos:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbFo04_67pQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Use Toyota Techstream Part 1&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDpldAv0uQE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toyota Techstream Software Demonstration&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I understand that I can do this with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toyota-tech.eu/GTS/Wizard/Step5-Software.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Global Tech Stream (GTS) software&lt;/a&gt; and the cable that named &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D6BA082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MINI-VCI J2534&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; I'd like to modify the ECU settings. Is it a risky work? What's the difference between the original and fake MINI-VCI J2534 (I saw this video too &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E7tBXDkexY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disassembly of the fake mini VCI cable&lt;/a&gt;, however, I didn't understand what's its means)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19185" LastEditorUserId="19185" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T12:16:59.983" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T12:16:59.983" Title="Auto door lock does not work with automatic transmission shifting to and from “Park”" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|corolla|door|central-locking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2016-06-20T10:34:45.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread, but Elon Musk tweeted &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/744549842496655360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video of some people in Kazakhstan driving their Tesla through deep water&lt;/a&gt;. He then &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/744552907563991040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;told that the Tesla can indeed operate as a boat, as the drive units and battery are sealed.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course, you could still get water in the AC and into the cabin. Then you would probably have to change all air filters, fans, etc. The AC intake is, as far as I know, located right below the windshield. The internal, low voltage, electronics are probably not sealed up, so there's lots of stuff that could take damage from standing water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you plan turning your electric car into a boat, just remember to turn it back into a land vehicle as quickly as possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19186" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T10:34:45.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31965" CreationDate="2016-06-20T12:27:48.597" Score="22" ViewCount="2328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the guidance from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/31874/what-temperature-should-the-a-c-blow&quot;&gt;this Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;, I measured the output temperature of my 2012 Town and Country A/C. Under the test conditions proscribed, with outside temperature of 87°F and 55% relative humidity, the following observations were made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When temperature set to maximum cold (&quot;LO&quot;) and blower set to &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; speed (&quot;1&quot; bar), the output air flow is 42°F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When temperature set to maximum cold (&quot;LO&quot;) and blower set to &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; speed (&quot;6&quot; bars), the output air flow is 60°F.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not expecting a nearly 20°F rise in temperature with the blower going. This explains why the A/C feels &quot;cool&quot; to me under normal operating conditions (which is some where in the middle of my experimental range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T23:33:01.450" Title="A/C loses chill when turning on blower. Why?" Tags="|ac|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41693" CreationDate="2016-06-20T12:53:36.177" Score="4" ViewCount="11831" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does OBD II pin 16 output is always 12 Volt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to the voltage is altering when ignition on, like rising from 12 to 14 Volt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or Voltage output of the buses, trailers, heavy duty vehicles OBD pin 16 is different than cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16324" LastEditorUserId="16324" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T13:49:04.983" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T10:43:40.897" Title="Does OBD II pin 16 output is always 12 Volt?" Tags="|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31963" CreationDate="2016-06-20T13:30:20.267" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the wonderful and wacky world of thermodynamics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A volume of air has heat. For example a gallon of air needs a certain amount of cooling to drop from 87 degrees to 42 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An AC evaporator can absorb heat at a constant maximum rate. When the blower is on low and lets say flowing one gallon of air a second, the evaporator is able to drop its temperature from 87 to 42 degrees. Now you turn the blower to high and the flow rate goes up to six gallons a second. The cooling rate of the evaporator has not changed, it is still pulling in a fixed amount of heat. So when the evaporator could cool one gallon to 42 degrees, it now cools six gallons to 60 degrees in the same amount of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T13:30:20.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31940" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:50:32.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Jeep is equipped with aftermarket tires, not stock tires. If  you search for tires based on the vehicle type, you won't find anything, and the 2005 Wrangler (TJ) was never offered with 16&quot; rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't search by vehicle type, search by tire size. There are several manufacturers that sell tires in this size. I run Yokohamas and Mickey Thompsons, both in that size, and there are dozens of other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sites will default to searching by vehicle type, but you can search by size. Since most manufacturers use metric sizing, try the metric equivalent 315/75R16 or look at off-road specialty sites like quadratec.com or 4wheelparts.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:50:32.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31957" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:52:08.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, you'll be fine. The Dexron 3 fluids came along after the Dexron 2 as a more refined formula, so it is backwards compatible with the Dexron 2 fluids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:52:08.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14682" CreationDate="2016-06-20T16:21:37.323" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my son's 2005 Altima he was having to jump start it frequently. The battery tested good. The local mechanic said the alternator was bad so I replaced it with a rebuilt from AutoZone. Charge light never came on.Same problem, every day or so a jump start was required. Thinking the battery may be testing good but actually be bad I replaced it with the maximum amps battery that fit in the slot. When I was replacing it I stuck a test light im between the ground on the battery and the the ground wire. I glows brightly (like a full twelve volt draw) for about 10 minutes and then goes into a blinking mode. Currently I am having him disconnect the battery at night. I guess the dealer is the next step.&#xA;Jake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19190" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T16:21:37.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31973" CreationDate="2016-06-20T21:51:23.077" Score="8" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/31797/what-is-the-point-of-the-exhaust&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, lots of people said that having pipes coming through the bonnet/under the car etc would bypass the muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the muffler though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People said this wouldn't be able to fit in the engine bay. Why is it so large?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T22:06:39.827" Title="What is the muffler? How does it work?" Tags="|engine-theory|exhaust|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31972" CreationDate="2016-06-20T22:06:39.827" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A muffler is a harmonically tuned chamber that is designed to reduce the noise created by the combustion process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mufflers are usually designed with specific sound frequencies in mind. When a vehicle is being designed, the engineers will measure the sound frequencies emitted by the engine, and using harmonic tuning, create mufflers that specifically cancel certain frequencies, and amplify others (ie in a sports sedan, you want quite exhaust at low throttle/low RPM, but louder exhaust at high throttle or high RPM). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is a cutout of a typical muffler. You can see the exhaust gasses and sound waves will enter (on the left) and exit (out the top).  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipVcF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ipVcF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The baffling allows the exhaust to travel the path of least resistance (once pressure has built), while forcing the sound waves to bounce around through the various tubes and chambers, thus canceling the desired frequencies. The volume of the sound baffling chambers is why mufflers are as large as they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to drill a hole in your muffler, the sound waves would be allowed to escape before the baffling has taken full effect, making your exhaust louder. The sound of your drilled exhaust would change based on where you drilled the hole, drilling in one spot might effect the entire rev range, while other spots might only effect the sound at high RPM. Tuners will design mufflers with different baffling/chamber designs to amplify the sound and volume of certain frequencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T22:06:39.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31975" CreationDate="2016-06-20T22:15:50.273" Score="14" ViewCount="6074" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sunroof&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sunroof&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sunroof&lt;/a&gt; tag here states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The opening in the roof of a car. Usually a glass panel that opens by sliding down and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mazda.ca/globalassets/en/pdf/manuals/mazda6/2006mazda6_ownersmanual_en.pdf&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; of my 2006 Mazda 6 refers to the opening only as a moonroof, and never mentions a sunroof. I've never heard the term moonroof before. To the best of my knowledge, everyone here in Australia refers to it as a sunroof. Are they synonyms, or is there some difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, the opening in my Mazda is electronic, and both slides and tilts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between a sunroof and a moonroof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17351" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:09:46.743" Title="Is there a difference between a sunroof and a moonroof?" Tags="|terminology|sunroof|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31974" CreationDate="2016-06-20T22:30:27.640" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a little digging, I have found pretty much what Ben said in the comments above: A moonroof is a sunroof, but a sunroof is not a moonroof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is not in how the mechanism moves, but what it holds. A sunroof consists of a metal panel that can either tilt up, and/or slide back into or above the roof of the car. A moonroof, on the other hand, consists of a glass panel with the same movement functions, The difference being that a moonroof can be closed while still permitting light to come through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;assume&lt;/em&gt; they were named this way because a sunroof was a logical name for the device when it was first invented in  1937 (according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunroof&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;). The moonroof, invented in 1973 ('37 and '73 - coincidence!?!?), was named as a play on the word 'sun'roof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T23:21:43.957" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T23:21:43.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T23:30:03.180" Score="6" ViewCount="30963" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question is pretty straightforward: I have a cheap project and a large SUV, and I'd rather not drive the price of the project up by paying $20 to rent a pickup from the local home improvement store to haul a $20 piece of plywood home, and I'm building a large table so cutting it up into pieces is not currently an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T19:33:12.640" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T13:57:11.873" Title="Will a 4x8 sheet of plywood fit inside a Suburban/Yukon XL (2007-2014)?" Tags="|chevrolet|suburban|fitment|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31976" CreationDate="2016-06-20T23:30:03.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact, yes, it can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4SGH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4SGH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yes, it fits!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bit the bullet and tried it out, and as you can see there's some room to spare. You can see the back 2 rows fold flat, and my front seats are back pretty far (I'm 5'9&quot; but I keep my seats far back 'cause I'm cool), I had to scoot them up about 2&quot; to close the hatch but it was nothing near uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing this again I'd change the following: The seat backs of the rear 2 rows are carpet - presumably so that people can do this kind of thing. However, there were plenty splinters left on the carpet backs. Nothing a shop vac can't take care of, but an ounce of prevention (in this case some cheap bath towels that I already keep in the truck 'cause, kids) over the seat backs is worth a pound of shop vac'ing. Happy haulin'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T23:30:03.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T07:31:42.903" Score="8" ViewCount="4276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can't the sunshine (that turns a car into an oven) be used to run the aircon? Or at the very least, a fan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - a long thin fan that fits into the top of the window - preventing it from  closing all the way. Surely a solar panel the size fo your back window should be able to power the fan (or even 2 fans - one on each side) which would help cool down the car down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't this being done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19208" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:20:43.497" Title="Using sunshine to cool down the car" Tags="|ac|fan|cooling|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-21T08:06:47.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Israel people who live in dangerous areas can have their car windows replaced for free. They replace the front windshield with bullet proof glass. The side windows are replaced with some type of plastic to protect from rock throwing. The side windows do scratch and turn a yellowish color after a few years and then they can be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19210" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T08:06:47.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-21T08:31:48.623" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would like to do that by the use of solar panels, the problem is power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical car AC probably uses somewhere between 1000 and 3000 watts. A square meter of typical photovoltaic cells generates roughly 150W of power. Even if you covered the entire car with solar panels, they wouldn't be sufficient to power the AC completely under perfect conditions. And they would be very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans are much less power hungry, a couple hundred watts at most. You could technically run them off a solar panel alone if you don't need maximum power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some car manufacturers do it already. For example some &lt;em&gt;Audi&lt;/em&gt; models have a solar panel sunroof as an option. It keeps the blower fan running at low speed even when the car is off to keep the air circulating and fresh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anything else, the solar panels simply do not generate enough power to produce a significant impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T13:24:37.863" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T13:24:37.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-21T09:36:06.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you have is efficiency. Solar panel efficiency runs about 10-20%, depending on the type used. Air conditioners range in efficiency, about 30% efficiency is a good working figure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that it takes 3.3 times the energy to cool your car for every unit of heat you remove. Solar panel efficiency means you need about 6.6 times the surface area of your car to generate the equivalent electricity as the sunlight hitting the car. So as a rough figure to run the AC you would need solar panels covering 22 times the surface area of your car (3.3 * 6.6 = 21.78 rounded up to 22). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit more complex than this as the solar panels would reflect a significant amount of heat, reducing the number of panels you need, but you'd still need many times more area than the car to run the AC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fans are much more workable than AC as you don't need the compressor or pumps, you would still need to cover your entire car to get enough electricity to run a decent sized fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T09:36:06.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-21T11:26:43.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a great idea!  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;And it IS being done.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain models of the &lt;strong&gt;Toyota Prius&lt;/strong&gt; feature an optional solar roof that powers interior fans that automatically engage when the interior gets too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hybrid batteries are not even used at all: the fans run strictly on solar power!  Cool (literally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQl4y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQl4y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Prius Solar Roof&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Image Source: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.resilience.org/stories/2011-11-23/solar-powered-car&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;resilience.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:26:43.737" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-21T11:41:51.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lancia Thesis, introduced back in 2001, had this system.  Basically the glass in the sunroof was actually a solar panel which was used to power the A/C fan when the car was parked in direct sunlight.  The more intense the sunshine, the more power for the fans, the cooler the cabin would become.  This system was one of a number of things on the Lancia Thesis which was genuinely brilliant but didn't seem to catch on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.italiaspeed.com/newmodels_thesis.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:41:51.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32001" CreationDate="2016-06-21T11:50:27.220" Score="5" ViewCount="3679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find the fuse box on a TGB Urban 125cc scooter. I looked under the seat and under the foot rest. All i could find is the main fuse wired in the battery cable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNUV3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNUV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tgb urban main fuse&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the only fuse? Is there a fuse box with more? Where is it located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T21:53:47.993" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T14:18:48.420" Title="Where is the fuse box on a TGB Urban 125cc scooter?" Tags="|scooter|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31974" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:09:46.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In UK usage, an opening glass panel over the front seats is a sunroof whether it tilts, slides or both.  A second such opening over the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; seats was sometimes called a moonroof (this was common when the Espace first came out, so late 80s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:09:46.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:32:13.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the limited amount of power obtainable from a panel being less than that required to operate anything more than a fan, there are perhaps two other reasons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Current solar panels are flat and rigid. Fitting one into the roof of a car may spoil its styling, or its aerodynamics, or both. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By adding a panel you are increasing the weight of the car, which hurts its fuel economy figures (on top of any aerodynamic penalty), and this in turn will increase the running cost, and also the road taxes payable by the owner (at least in many EU states, don't know about USA). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray-on solar PV coatings are working in R&amp;amp;D labs. This technology might be coming to cars in the near-ish future. It would have no aerodynamic or styling penalty and a much smaller weight penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19214" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:32:13.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:46:55.063" Score="6" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado and I went out to start it so I could go to work this morning and it sounds like it's not getting any spark. it turns over and the solenoid turns on so its not the fuel pump. I've never had any real ignition problems so it makes me believe that this might be a really simple disconnection of a wire or something to the coils. I checked the fuses (inside and out) and nothing is blown. Any idea what this could be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="D. Purchae" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T21:11:21.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T23:10:42.590" Title="2001 Chevrolet Silverado Ignition" Tags="|starting|chevrolet|sensor|silverado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31988" CreationDate="2016-06-21T13:25:46.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try looking in the battery compartment area? Sometimes those fuses will be directly wired into the positive battery cable (those smaller scooters typically have a single fuse I think, don't quote me though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T13:25:46.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31996" CreationDate="2016-06-21T13:26:15.993" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have subaru impreza 1998 with manual transmission.  When I push the clutch I hear a noise like the noise of the power steering belt when its over tightened.  The mechanic replaced the clutch bearing [ throw out bearing] . But the noise didn't go. Today he told me that the transmission needs replacement!  I dont hear any noise while driving except something like wennnnnn when am on fist and second gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What to do ! &#xA;Thanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19216" LastEditorUserId="19216" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T13:35:31.533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T17:19:49.870" Title="subaru impreza 1998 clutch noise" Tags="|transmission|clutch|noise|subaru|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T14:18:10.137" Score="5" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Mahindra Scorpio S10 (2015 model) and want to find out what modules are there in my car (ECM, TCM, Body Control Module, Suspension control module etc.) using an ELM 327 Bluetooth device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a method of how I can discover the various modules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What commands should I send and what reply shall I receive in return?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T17:30:04.220" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:19:13.310" Title="Find all modules supported in my car" Tags="|obd-ii|elm-327|bcm|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31991" CreationDate="2016-06-21T16:04:15.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to check is the ignition coil: disconnect it and measure its resistance with a multimeter. You'll want to check your car's manual for exact values, but in general dead coils will have infinite resistance on the secondary winding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coil is OK, you'll have to do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Test-an-Ignition-Coil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full-blown spark test&lt;/a&gt;. Note that having a spark plug tester or a set of spare spark plugs will greatly reduce the amount of work required and the chances of doing something wrong and damaging the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T16:04:15.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31993" CreationDate="2016-06-21T17:19:49.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms of a bad throwout bearing are (usually) noise with the clutch disengaged, which goes away when the clutch is pressed in. You were getting the exact opposite, which indicates that you're suffering input shaft wear, which is common on 5MT Subaru transmissions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With input shaft wear, the shaft gets a little bit smaller over time, but the throw-out bearings remain the same size. That gives more (too much) wiggle room, so that you're now pressing slightly off-centre on the pressure plate diaphragm. Eventually this will start giving you transmission shuddering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming (because I'm making a lot of assumptions based on little information) that the above is true, you're looking at a new transmission (which will fix the whine, at a cost of more than the car is worth), or you may try a PDM Snout Repair kit; it's an oversized throwout bearing, plus a sleeve to fit on the input shaft. Cost is about $150, plus installation. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pdmusa.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pdmusa.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T17:19:49.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T17:42:02.290" Score="5" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to reprogram they intelligent key (i-key) for my 2014 Nissan Maxima to do more stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I press and hold the unlock button on the i-key, the two front windows open. I want to make all 4 windows open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I want to make the car lights turn on when the key is close to the car &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I have a horn button in my i-key. When I press and hold on it, I want the engine to turn on rather than the horn if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because I am not sure if that can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T03:59:14.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T03:59:14.013" Title="How can expand the functions of my key fob?" Tags="|nissan|electronics|maxima|fob|reprogram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T17:55:06.890" Score="3" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is overheating while idling at light. I have been driving it without a thermostat for about 6 months. I have had the water pump replaced and the reservoir. I have also replaced the reservoir cap. I have driven it for 3 days with engine/ radiator cleaner in it to make sure there is no clog but the car is still running hot. Any ideas where to go next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19221" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T18:06:08.737" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T18:06:08.737" Title="1996 Mercury Sable overheating while idling" Tags="|troubleshooting|coolant|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31997" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:00:08.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to do it yourself, but companies such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kptechnologies.com/products.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KP Technologies&lt;/a&gt; make modules to do almost all of the functions you would like to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am in no way affiliated with this company, nor have I ever tried their product, but I have seen them mentioned on various forums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:00:08.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31998" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:02:47.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check to make sure that the fan in front of the radiator is operational and not missing any fins or the shroud.  And it would be best to install a thermostat, since your cooling system probably isn't pressurizing without one, which means it can absorb less heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not check with your hand!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18980" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:02:47.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31988" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:07:28.310" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I can't find the fuse location for the 125cc&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loation of the fuse on the 49cc version is in the battery compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;BATTERY AND FUSE.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;THE BATTERY HAVE TWO TYPE ：REFILL WATER TYPE AND SEALED TYPE.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;REPLACE THE BATTERY, PLEASE TAKE OFF LEG SHIELD CUSHION, UNSCREW THE TAPPING SCREW AND REMOVE THE BATTERY BOX LID, YOU CAN TAKE OFF THE BATTERY AND CABLE.&#xA;  SEALED TYPE REQUIRING NO MAINTENANCE OF FLUID LEVER, DO NOT REMOVE SEALING CAPS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;THE FUSE IS NEAR THE BATTERY, ITS FUNCTIONS IS TO PROTECT THE ELECTRIC PARTS AND AVOID DAMAGES CAUSED BY SHORT-CIRCUIT OR POWER OVER-LOAD, IF THE FUSE MELTS OFTEN, THEN THERE MAY BE SOME THING WRONG IN THE ELECTRIC WIRES OR THE ELECTRIC PARTS DO NOT WORK CORRECTLY. PLEASE GO TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER TO EXAMINE IT IMMEDIATELY.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IF REPLACING THE FUSE, PLEASE ALWAYS USE A 7A TYPE. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tgb-france.com/common/upload_fichier/servicemanual125250xmotion.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a link to a manual for the 125cc version.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  This manual is a over 200 pages but leaves something to be desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T14:18:48.420" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T14:18:48.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:24:43.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a comment on running straight coolant vs straight water, like Lex said, water has the best cooling capacity, while the antifreeze does not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that some race teams will run a mix of 8:2 or 9:1 water to antifreeze.   The corrosion inhibition properties are not needed for a race engine that is rebuilt each time, and the higher ratio of water allows for better cooling, which allows for better aero capabilities.  They also run the systems at much higher pressures than a passenger car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19222" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T18:55:41.930" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:55:41.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:49:32.563" Score="5" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping this was my mistake. My apartment has a steep hill to go down for the garage. I went to turn the corner and noticed the garage was opening. I pressed on the break, put my car in reverse. When I went to hit the accelerator, my car started rolling down the hill. I panicked and put my car into drive immediately. The person in the garage waited until I got in to move. When my car started to slow down, I hit the gas and my car locked up and stalled. I was able to get it into my parking space. I turned off my car and restarted it. I was able to back up and drive forward again. I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with 131,000 miles on it. I fixed the alternator about 2 months ago, new battery about 6 months old, and an oil change was done today. I am hoping I just mistreated my car, and put it from reverse to drive too soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19224" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:06:14.233" Title="Car lost power. New alternator, new battery, and just had an oil change" Tags="|toyota|yaris|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32069" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:06:09.170" Score="7" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my handbrake (bear with me now). So I went to the service to have them check it out. The mechanic took a 10 second look at my car and told me I needed to change both of my brake discs along with everything related to the handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let me be clear. I've never had any problems with my brakes. They work surprisingly well for my 15 year old car. I don't know when the brake discs were last changed but I've never had any issues with braking. But I do have issues with my handbrake and I'm prepared to pay for the fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't see how it is necessary to change the brake discs on the front wheels (which I assume are only used for normal braking). It seems like overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the two braking systems mechanically dependent on each other so much that it would require me to completely revamp both of them or is the mechanic just padding the bill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can assess the brake discs myself to make sure I'm not being conned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a Fiat Punto 2001 Sporting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19225" LastEditorUserId="19225" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T21:09:10.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T08:58:11.137" Title="Any way to assess my brake disc condition?" Tags="|brakes|handbrake|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:06:14.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;I am hoping I just mistreated my car, and put it from reverse to drive too soon.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely. Modern transmissions have safety features that don't allow you to actually engage into reverse without reaching a desired slowed speed. If you panicked and threw it into reverse without actually coming to a complete stop, the transmission would basically ignore your request for it to go into reverse until you had slowed down enough for it to catch. There is a certain &quot;pin&quot; present in modern transmissions that attempt to catch the gears before moving them. With your car rolling down the hill, the pin wouldn't be able to catch and you would probably hearing a ratcheting noise as you rolled. You probably didn't do any damage this time, but it's not advisable to attempt again in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:06:14.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25817" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:08:13.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From HandyHowie's comment above, it could be the start pinion rattling against the flywheel under certain conditions (deceleration as you described). This interference could be cause by improperly placed starter mounting bolts/brackets, or bolts that were not fully torqued, allowing the starter to move. Drivelines have small tolerances of flexibility, which would be causing the noise during the deceleration condition, but obviously this was not intended from the factory, and nothing described would indicate problems with the driveline, so a loose starter is the likely culprit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:08:13.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32004" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:14:11.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind as I answer here that I have no idea how Fiats are set up as far as brakes go, but I wouldn't think that front brake disc replacement would be necessary in your situation. However, this is based on the assumption that your front brake discs are actually in good working order. On most cars that I have worked on, the hand brake is implemented into the rear brake system which would mean that messing with the front brakes seems unnecessary. BUT this is all going off of the assumption that your Fiat is set up in the same way with the hand brake based in the rear brake system of the car. In order to determine if your front discs need replacement, you'd have to look at them with the wheels off and make sure that they're still thick enough for everyday stress due to braking. If the disc is too thin, your brakes can actually snap pieces of it and cause brake failure. Good luck with your repairs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:14:11.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26599" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:23:22.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking the car back to the shop that did the tire change. They will be able to check the tire balance. If you are still not happy with the tire, most tire shops will allow you to exchange them within X number of days if you have not put more than ~100 miles on them (varies by shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:23:22.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32019" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:34:37.177" Score="3" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;My airbag unit isn't working and needs to be replaced. The car is Audi A3 8L ('97) 1.9 TDI, 110hp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using VCDS, I found that serial number of that part is: 1J0 909 603&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, in аutomorgue, I found a part &lt;strong&gt;with the same serial number&lt;/strong&gt;, but it says that part is from Audi A3 8L ('97) 1.9 TDI, &lt;strong&gt;but 90hp.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, can I use that part for replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5123" LastEditorUserId="5123" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T20:02:20.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T00:23:14.493" Title="Replace Airbag Unit on Audi A3 8L?" Tags="|audi|supplemental-restraint-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32011" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:37:38.873" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Context: Replaced the front disc brakes and back drums for a Nissan Altima 2001 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem: The brakes don't have any pressure while applied, or in other words the pedal sinks to the floor. Their seem to be a lot of troubleshooting options, the most useful seem to be ensuring movement in the calipers, and ensuring a tight fit for all of the brake fluid connections. A similar post seems to suggest there might be additional tools &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27164/i-have-replaced-my-brake-cylinders-but-the-brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor&quot;&gt;required&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or suggestions will help. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10756" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:51:50.123" Title="Testing after complete brake job, no pressure while applying brakes" Tags="|brakes|nissan|altima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32010" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:51:50.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will want to use a vacuum pump to remove any remaining air in your system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hand%20vacuum%20pump&amp;amp;oq=hand%20vacuum%20pump&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3359j0j9&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=brake%20vacuum%20pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using a hand vacuum pump&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, you can get a low end one, will remove the frustration of bleeding brakes with two people.  One to pump the brake one to open the bleeding nipple on the calipers and master cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pedal is going to the floor after servicing your hydraulic brake system you more than likely have air in your system.  The tool referenced above should allow you suck a high volume of brake fluid through your system to evacuate any remaining air in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anti-lock brakes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various manufacturers of brake systems, such as Siemans, will have procedures specific to the component to remove air.  Air can get trapped in a series of valves that are necessary to bleed off hydraulic pressure to prevent locking.  Some will call for you to turn the key all the way on and bleed the brakes with the power enables at the ignition.  I have encountered a system that required the car actually be turned on and then off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have researched your vehicle for an anti-lock bleeding procedure and have been unable to find anything special about your system that requires anything OoB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some additional info on using a hand vacuum pump to evacuate air from your system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24195/9164&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24195/9164&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:51:50.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T20:08:07.447" Score="7" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is maxima 2014. Where is the part that receives the signals from the intelligent key?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastEditorUserId="19227" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T20:50:20.963" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:50:20.963" Title="Where is the part of the car that senses the i-key?" Tags="|nissan|car|turn-signal|keyless-entry|maxima|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32012" CreationDate="2016-06-21T20:23:12.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the remote entry receiver see number 11 in the diagram below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interior key antenna is located under the center console number 13 and inputs to the body control module seen in number 1 of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BE2Xq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BE2Xq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:23:12.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32012" CreationDate="2016-06-21T20:24:54.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your BCM receives the signal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nissan uses what is called a BCM or body control module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BCM on your car controls the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Security (key fob synchronization, door locks)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn signals&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Audio System&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lights (internal/external)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anti-lock brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other attributes as well not on my list but to answer your question, it's the BCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:24:54.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:16:48.633" Score="6" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the car to my local mechanic two weeks ago with the problems described above. He replaced the air filter, spark plugs, and did an oil change, saying those were likely the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After these repairs, I tried to start the car in front of him 5 times, finally succeeding. He tried too and said it must be the fuel pressure, but that I should drive it for a few days to see if the problem continues and if the check engine light stays lit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still lit and the car still takes 2 to 4 crank attempts, failing to accelerate beyond 80 mph. At 80mph the engine makes some stalling-like noises, but continues running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know very little about cars, but don't want to just throw money at someone who gave mine back without knowing it still wasn't working properly. The mechanic thinks it's a fuel hose issue. Does his assessment seem likely, or are there more probable repairs I should request from them or another store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19229" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T21:42:12.297" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T14:48:49.810" Title="2007 Chevy HHR, check Engline light ON, 2 to 4 cranks to start, won't accelerate beyond 80 mph" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|fuel-injection|hhr|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:29:03.057" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;2016 Subaru Outback won't shut off audio book when answering the phone.  Tech at Subaru dealership said it was because I was using one click digital and I needed to switch to audible.  I don't believe that .  And I won't take that for an answer, I think he just wanted to get me out of the lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19231" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T21:36:01.227" LastActivityDate="2022-03-05T09:32:35.117" Title="bluetooth not shutting off audio when answering the phone" Tags="|subaru|audio|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32016" CreationDate="2016-06-21T21:58:37.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds more like a problem with the app then the Subaru audio system. I would try playing music or a different app and taking a call. If that works fine, you know it's a problem with the app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A OneClickdigital Version 2.1 release document available &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjl-tiZjbrNAhUN82MKHUCaDjUQFgg2MAQ&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.swkls.org%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F08%2FOneClickdigital-Android-App.docx&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHRnnIPExS7LEpDzTG30UjxPBHdOw&amp;amp;sig2=S-I7_Yf8JN5B9f1iVjMHIA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.125221236,d.cGc&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; addresses problems people were experiencing during phone calls on Android devises. If you can update your app, that may solve the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not solve the problem, you may be left contacting the app developers, or finding an alternative like the Subaru tech suggested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T22:04:34.893" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T22:04:34.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T23:52:42.753" Score="7" ViewCount="7535" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Details&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chevy Malibu 09&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low on coolant (still visible in the tank so not entirely out) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Belts are fine-Never overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Timeline&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day it didn't start (don't remember it cranking) but then it started right after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second day, it happened a couple of times and had a harder time but yet started and worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third day, it would not start and hasn't started since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought new battery terminals, had a used battery that had 56% so I took it back and got another used one. Nothing happened. (The radio also was able to stay on for a few days when it wasn't running and now it doesn't turn on at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can it be the key as well?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Owners Manual said that it may have a feature named &quot;PASS-Key+ Electronic immobilizer&quot;. It uses a radio frequency transponder in the key that matches a decoder in the vehicle. The cover of my key broke off so I was scared the chip would fall and needed something to hold my other keys so I wrap Electrical Tape around it so the chip wouldn't fall out. That's around the time I started encountering the problems. Maybe the black electric tape messed up the radio frequency somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also reconnected the back speakers (that came with the car, no subs) prior to any of this. Owner Manuel also mentions &quot;The engine is designed to work with the electronics in the vehicle. If you add electrical parts or accessories you could change the way the engine operates&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or how do I know if the key is just too worn out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it may be the starter but I want that to be my last option since I'm a broke college student.  It also can't be jump started. Tried with the old battery and new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19232" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T19:58:50.377" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T04:19:11.193" Title="Won't Start, No Crank, Lights Inside Work, Key Issue, Electric?" Tags="|electrical|starting|chevrolet|malibu|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32009" CreationDate="2016-06-22T00:23:14.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would not ever mess with airbags. This is not a project for a weekend driveway mechanic. Accidental activation can be fatal if you happen to be the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong body part (i.e skull for example). Factory trained qualified mechanics know how to do it safely. Using parts designed exclusively for safety from vehicles that have accidents  is never a good idea. A tail light assembly or a bumper is one thing- Airbags absolutely not. It is not worth the risk. If you do not know the history of the part or if is compatible with your vehicle-Don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who was almost killed by an well functioning airbag deploying during a accident - a head on collision with a drunk driver at 110 km/h. I can tell it hurts like hell for months afterwards. To save a few hundred dollars is not worth it. Not for you or your family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T00:23:14.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32022" CreationDate="2016-06-22T01:31:35.897" Score="19" ViewCount="13574" Body="&lt;p&gt;So today was that epic event of walking out into the parking lot at high noon, sun blazing, and finding out you have a completely flat tire.  Skipping over the usual details about changing out a tire with insufficient equipment on scorching hot pavement, I changed out the tire for the spare and dropped the flat tire off at a tire shop for repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got my vehicle home and was putting away the spare, I noticed that the nail was still in the tire itself.  The nail appeared to be a roofing nail based upon the size of the head.  There also appeared to be some sort of sealant surrounding the nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if it's normal to leave the nail in the tire or not.  With previous leaks, other repair shops have removed the nail or screw.  I haven't been to this tire shop before so I don't know if what they did was standard practice or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2776" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T17:47:22.823" Title="Normal to leave nail in tire after a flat?" Tags="|tires|fix-a-flat|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T01:40:51.203" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that is not normal.  It needs to be removed and the hole should be patched from the inside. Sealants or plugs are not usually a recommended fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T01:40:51.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T01:42:21.393" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nope, not normal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not leave a foreign object in a tire under any circumstances.  The object can dislodge itself during higher speeds and lead to deflation creating a very high risk event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they plugged the tire there will be a rubber plug with vulcanizing glue but not a nail or other related object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Validate that it's not a rubber plug, if it's not, go back to the shop.  This is not normal in my experience and IMO very dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T01:42:21.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:23:48.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to lubricate the door lock mechanism and linkages.  You probably have to remove the inner door panel to get to it all. Also, lube the actual lock with tri flow or a dry ptfe type lube.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T02:23:48.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:55:20.610" Score="4" ViewCount="6518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; like the A/C in my 2012 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country is under-performing. So, I measured the A/C temperature output on it and my 2003 Toyota Corolla, and I'm having trouble reconciling the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the experimental results, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/31874/10832&quot;&gt;this setup&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vehicle        | Outside Condition | Temp Setting   | Fan Setting    | Measured Output Temp&#xA;===============|===================|================|================|=====================&#xA;Town &amp;amp; Country | 85°F / 55% rh     | Coldest - &quot;LO&quot; | Min (&quot;1&quot; bar)  | 42°F&#xA;                                   | Coldest - &quot;LO&quot; | Max (&quot;6&quot; bar)  | 60°F&#xA;---------------|-------------------|----------------|----------------|---------------------&#xA;Corolla        | 94°F / 35% rh     | Coldest        | Min (&quot;1&quot;)      | 45°F&#xA;                                   | Coldest        | Max (&quot;4&quot;)      | 49°F&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(These results show that as the blower speed increases so does the output temperature. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/31963/10832&quot;&gt;This Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; explains why in lay terms, or see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gunt.de/download/thermodynamics%20of%20refrigeration_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this technical summary&lt;/a&gt;. For a general guide on auto A/C implementation, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=365596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why does the Toyota increase 4°F, while the Town &amp;amp; Country increases 18°F? I'd expect a significantly newer vehicle to have the same or better A/C output performance. But no: in the Toyota, one tick more on the blower is one degree up in temperature. In the Chrysler, one blower tick up is &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; degrees up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't make sense to me. Is the A/C on the Chrysler under-performing, and I should spend the cash to have a pro look at it: or is this all just about perception, and I should be happy with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Indeed, the A/C was under-performing. The low pressure side was at 20 psi, where nominally it should be around 30 psi. I took it to a pro, who found a failed thermal exhaust valve. Replaced the valve and recharge recycled the refrigerant. Now it blows 48°F at coldest with the blower on maximum. This is inline with the performance from the Corolla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T16:12:03.440" Title="Seemingly poor A/C efficiency in Chrysler Town &amp; Country" Tags="|ac|chrysler|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31830" CreationDate="2016-06-22T05:13:41.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about a motorcycle, i would recomend you to invest in a motorcycle cover that you could pull over your bike when it's parked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17743" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T05:13:41.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T05:16:40.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put freon in it using one of those el cheapo guage from walmart. After having a mechanic recover what little bit of freon was left, I hooked up to the low side port and immediately the guage went into the red indicating a &quot;mechanical issue&quot;. So I put freon in it anyways. After a can and a half, the compressor would kick on and run but the lines never cooled and neither did the air. Is there something I'm missing? A buddy has a legit ac machine. He hooked it up and said something about no vacuum and that my compressor is bad. But the clutch kicks in like it should when it's turned on..any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19236" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T03:18:44.753" Title="ac issues with 2005 pontiac g6 3.5L" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32061" CreationDate="2016-06-22T09:17:25.063" Score="5" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a problem for a while on my MTX Nissan Almera with only being able to engage fifth gear at specific speeds, around 68-72 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed while changing an inner tie rod dust boot that it looks like I've got oil leaking from one of my axle oil seals.  It's not a huge leak, but it's likely that it's been there for a long time, like maybe more than a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if my gear oil is low ( probably ) and if that could cause the above mentioned problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a general question, here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helicalgearboxes.com/nissan-almera-gearbox/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a picture of my particular model of gear box&lt;/a&gt; ( but not mine from my car ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5Plk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5Plk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:26:59.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:26:59.480" Title="Can low gear oil cause a syncronizer not to work?" Tags="|oil|nissan|manual-transmission|almera|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32024" CreationDate="2016-06-22T11:31:28.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already commented on an answer to your other question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/31965/6794&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/31965/6794&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottomline is: There's no sense in trying to compare A/C systems in different vehicle types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a workshop is out for a quick buck, they will happily evacuate and refill your A/C refrigerant, whether it's needed or not. (I regularly hear the sales persons bluntly lying to customers stating that &quot;the manufacturer recommends this procedure once every two years&quot;, while I &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; that (most?) manufacturers explicitly claim their systems are &quot;maintenance-free&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers define the A/C as fully functional as long as it maintains low temperatures (&amp;lt;10°C) at the vents on low fan and something like 1500-2000rpm. And it also makes sense this way: A/Cs are controlled via a kind of thermostat which maintains about 0-5°C at the evaporator. If small amounts of refrigerant are lost the thermostat will compensate for that. Only when the refrigerant level is so low that the thermostat cannot maintain those temperatures action is needed; and that's exactly when the air at the vent does not reach those low temperatures mentioned above anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have an A/C service done as @vini_i suggested for your peace of mind if you want. You may or may not notice an increase in cooling-power afterwards.&#xA;Judging from your measurements, service is not necessary yet though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe also note that the A/C system is automatically turned off if a dangerously low level (pressure) of refrigerant is sensed, so that no permanent damage will occur. If that ever happens, you will have &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; cooling effect anymore and should definitely have the A/C serviced soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T11:43:13.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32029" CreationDate="2016-06-22T12:26:01.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AC system is separated into two halves, High side and Low side. When the engine is running and the AC compressor is engaged, the compressor pulls refrigerant (not Freon) from the low side and pushes it into the high side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, the system is separated into high side and low side by either the orifice tube or thermal expansion valve (TXV) at the evaporator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When everything is working well the low side should go to something around 30psi or less. The high side would then get up to 200psi or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your seeing 100psi or more on the low side, two things could be wrong. Bad compressor, because it's not moving anything from low to high side. Bad TXV that is stuck open. Orifice tubes plug up but because they are just a hole they can't stick open.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T12:26:01.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T14:29:46.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely not normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely agree with DucatiKiller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time it is best to leave a nail in is BEFORE the tyre has gone flat and you intend to drive somewhere, immediately, to get it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tyre still holds air, it might just get you there. Pull it out and it will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please come back and tell us all that it is a plug that you can see. If not, that company really, really, should not be trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19248" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T14:29:46.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:20:43.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;A simple solution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve similar results by opening all doors for about ~1 minute before entering your car. All hot air inside the car will be replaced with probably still warm air from the outside. If there's no wind, you can turn on the ventilation addtionally. One minute of ventilation usually won't hurt the car battery too much. Plus, it get's the heat out of the ventilation system as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem isn't as much the inside air as the car itself&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car's roof and seats will still be heated up. The warm air from the outside will do little to actually cool them down. Air is a bad thermal conductor. It is thus not good at cooling things down. For reference feel how hot the street gets on a summers day. And the street is outside all day with warm air replacing heated air, which rises up. You can actually see how the air rises. It's the haze on hot days.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In conclusion, the incoming heat from the sun is just too much to dissipate via environmental air cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For better results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put reflecting foil in all of your car's windows. Stow it away in the ~1 minute you have all doors open. The foil will keep the heat out of the car in the first place. So the interior won't be heated up that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still better results can be achieved in the same ~1 minute time frame: Pour water over the roof. The water will evaporate and cool the roof a bit. You should do that before stowing the reflective foil, so the evaporative water cooling has some time to take effect. This easily takes the roof from &quot;don't touch&quot; to &quot;still warm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Everything is about money&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the above options, how many people do you think would pay $$$ for a technical solution that will probably mitigate the problem worse than above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If $$$ doesn't matter for your technical solution, have a look at how absorption refrigerators work:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorption_refrigerator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorption_refrigerator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could basically use incoming heat (e.g. from a black panel on your car's roof) to turn your car into (sort of) a fridge. It will most surely not get as cold as a real fridge but the principle is sound. I'd assume that the overall efficiency might suffice. This assumption is based on eliminating the need to convert energy from the sun to electricity and use that to transfer heat energy. Instead you'd use sun energy quite directly to power the process.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However the amount of plumbing and the simple fact that the heat should best be applied from below, while coming in from above, makes this system &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; troublesome to implement for mobile applications like cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple concepts, none of which is too few a hassle in terms of price, efficiency and usability to be widely implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19252" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:20:43.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:26:34.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you got the flat tire by driving over several nails? There may have been multiple nails in the tire and the repair shop only removed/repaired one. The fact that they may have missed one is in itself inexcusable but this could explain the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many shops repair a nail by not demounting the tire from the rim/wheel. They simply remove the nail and then use a special tool to buff the hole and than another tool to insert a rubber plug. When this process is done it would be easy to think that there was a single nail that caused the flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14743" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T16:50:22.103" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:50:22.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:30:42.347" Score="1" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently bought a Husqvarna M ZT-52 zero-turn lawn mower.&#xA;It's been working wonderfully, except yesterday, the center blade and retaining bolt &lt;strike&gt;fell&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;em&gt;shot&lt;/em&gt; off while I was mowing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We flipped the deck, and removed the two remaining blades and bolts, and reattached them all, torquing to what was listed in the manual (55 Ft-lbs). Thinking all was well, I started mowing again today, and the left-hand blade shot off after about six hundred feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not opposed to getting my hands dirty, but this is a new machine (13 engine hours clocked), and having to halt everything to reattach these stupid blades is getting old pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to keep these dang blades and retaining bolts under the cutting deck where they belong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19253" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:55:50.130" Title="Husqvarna zero-turn mower keeps throwing blades" Tags="|repair|lawnmower|husqvarna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:35:38.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to leave the nail in the tire when you take it for repair as it shows the shop where the damage is, or at least some of it, and what caused it. This helps get a faster and more certain repair on the tire. However, during the repair they should remove the nail - they should never, ever leave the nail in after they have fixed the tire! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still a nail in the tire either they didn't remove the nail during the fix, or they didn't notice another nail in the tire. Either way they didn't do the job right and you should get your money back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:35:38.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32037" CreationDate="2016-06-22T16:55:50.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the blade is balanced you probably don't want to use lock washers, but you can get away with LockTite or some othe thread lockers. Just be sure that the one you use is reversible. Some will make it so the blade never comes off, even when you want it too. Generally speaking LockTite Red is the permanent kind. You want blue, or purple LockTite. There are other brands as well but that's the one I'm familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking more about it, putting lock washers on the bolts would probably work as well since the weight you're adding is evenly distributed around the rotation of the blade (both retaining bolts are the same distance from the hub). Not to mention they are likely close to the hub, and the weight of the washers is really small. So they should work, but the thread locker will certainly keep the bolts from separating from the nut or whatever they are threaded into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:55:50.130" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T17:21:59.977" Score="7" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Honda Stunner 125 CC motorcycle. I bought it in 2009. Since last year I have observed that it is emitting white smoke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic recommends that I  purchase new pistons or after some time engine would seize and then I would be paying for entire engine and not just pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is making smoke white in color? Is this really ripped piston or something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I am out to purchase new set of pistons how to verify this piston is good this is not? I mean brass coated, copper coated, rings, two rings etc .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it decrease the consumption of engine oil and petrol (gas)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4166" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T18:57:58.877" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T13:03:55.800" Title="Safe to buy new piston for your two wheeler engine" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|smoke|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32020" CreationDate="2016-06-22T17:47:22.823" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires are one of those things that you don't repair. If it's damaged/compromised, just buy a new one. Tires are cheaper than back in the past, and speeds higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4966" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T17:47:22.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32041" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:28:24.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) I'd guess that the smoke is oil that is burning. If the piston/ring is bad, it could be allowing oil to be burned with the fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Just make sure you buy a good quality part that fits your exact engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If the piston/ring is your problem, then oil consumption should decrease once fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T19:53:31.647" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T19:53:31.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T19:03:48.630" Score="6" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the proper term to indicate how much force the driver needs to exert to steer the wheels of a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1623" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T18:42:13.020" Title="Term to indicate how much force one needs to exert to steer the wheels of a car" Tags="|steering|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32045" CreationDate="2016-06-22T19:29:48.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The force required for the driver to turn the steering wheel would be a torque measured in foot-pounds (or Newton-meters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Credit: &#xA;The actual force required for the rack in a rack and pinion style steering system to push/pull the tie-rods to turn the wheels would be a simple load measured in pounds or kilograms. The actual load the tires experience when trying to turn would again be a torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T19:37:01.403" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T19:37:01.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32029" CreationDate="2016-06-22T19:49:33.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the clutch engages as it should, does not mean your compressor is working properly. All the clutch does is apply torque from the belt to the shaft of the compressor. For the compressor to work the rest of it must be functioning and actually increasing the pressure of the refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, Freon is R12, which has been illegal to make in the US since the 60's. Today's refrigerant is usually R134a (generally speaking, there are other types as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T19:49:33.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32041" CreationDate="2016-06-22T20:07:54.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the smoke being emitted from the exhaust is white with a hint of blue, it is oil. If the smoke is white with a sweet smell, it is antifreeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Anarach pointed out in the comments below, yours is an air cooled engine so there is no antifreeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're burning oil, it definitely could be leaking past the piston rings, which would likely be fixed if you replaced them, though the problem could also be with the cylinder walls, so you should inspect that they are smooth before reassembling the engine. I quick search indicates the engine in the 2008 Honda Stunner 125 is the Honda JC40E, so that is indeed your bike, make sure the pistons you buy are for that engine. I would stick with whatever material and number of rings that the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) pistons and piston rings were made of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the piston rings are in fact the problem, replacing them will likely reduce or eliminate your oil consumption, and increase your fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T13:03:55.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T13:03:55.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T20:29:01.317" Score="6" ViewCount="3146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this looks like cosmetic damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage to the sidewall near rim happened about a year and a half ago at around 20 mph. Tire has been holding air as well as the others over the last 4k miles since damage -- total mileage on tire is 7k and it is 3 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scrape is not very deep but it is long (see second shot with finger pushed against deepest part). Dealer thought it was cosmetic. Its been fine for the last 1+years but not sure how it will fare with 5 hours of driving for two weeks straight on an upcoming road trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxjoP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxjoP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFXIt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFXIt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19260" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T01:19:33.050" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T01:19:33.050" Title="Tire sidewall damage near rim cosmetic?" Tags="|tires|sidewall-damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32056" CreationDate="2016-06-22T21:25:00.237" Score="6" ViewCount="10079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 2000 Civic 1.6L ( d16y8 ) with no compression in one cylinder.  Four years ago, the engine overheated, and was completely rebuilt by the Honda dealership.  One of the things on the invoice was &quot;cylinder head resurfacing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that there is some warping and the head requires resurfacing again, but that the resurfacing would take the head past it's minimum height limit, why couldn't a thicker head gasket be used to compensate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because both the WSM seems to imply there is a hard limit, and I asked the mechanic I'm working with and he said it's not a good idea, but didn't really have time to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T05:42:42.087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:18:27.360" Title="Using a thicker head gasket when the cylinder head resurface limit is reached" Tags="|honda|civic|head-gasket|cylinder-head|rebuild|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32049" CreationDate="2016-06-22T21:29:55.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks cosmetic to me especially since the gash isn't very deep. The length of the gash doesn't look very concerning since there appears to be plenty of material left underneath the gash. You also stated that it has held air fine over the past year plus, so I would think you'd be fine. If it really bothers you, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace the tire though. I often find myself replacing small things like that just so I don't think about them the entire time I'm driving on a road trip. No sense in stressing if you don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T21:29:55.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31734" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:10:02.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 16.5&quot; diameter rims, and wish to retain them, then you must match the exact inner rim diameter with replacement tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never attempt to &quot;get by&quot; with a 16&quot; or 17&quot; tire on a 16.5 rims.  Similar things were attempted for a very short while when &lt;em&gt;metric&lt;/em&gt; diameter wheels were brought briefly to the US, and then stocks of tires vanished with the ill-conceived idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is no, heck no, bloody heck no. Sorry. Super nasty results await anything but the correctly matched inner tire diameter. Completely unsafe! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as the above posters mentioned, there's still availability of the old-school size scheme, albeit terribly limited. 16.5 was an almost-medium truck size in that era that never really caught on. [sigh] It's either new rims (but you could do some nice aluminum mags from Tire Rack with tires quite reasonable, and keep the stock steels... or it's the dwindling choices in 16.5&quot; tires, Sorry the news isn't better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T22:10:02.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:17:38.040" Score="6" ViewCount="2364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 VW Jetta GLI VR6 6 speed manual is &quot;stuck&quot; in gear. ATM stuck in 2nd gear as i was about to back into my driveway and as i went to shift into reverse it wouldn't shift and basically is stuck in 2nd gear. clutch engages and disengages fine. The stick will only move forwards and backwards but with no resistance, like just flops to and fro. Would like to know possible cauces and fixes please. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19265" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T19:37:31.103" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:37:31.103" Title="VW Jetta 2003 GLI 6 Speed manual stuck in gear." Tags="|vw|manual-transmission|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:33:55.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm betting that the cable responsible for front-back shifting has either come loose at a mounting point (transmission or shift lever) or has broken completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to have someone operate the lever while you observe the heavy cables on the top of the transmission bell housing.  It's also possible that a bracket that holds one of the two cables is broken or loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=740739&amp;amp;ukey_make=1066&amp;amp;ukey_model=15561&amp;amp;modelYear=2003&amp;amp;ukey_category=21730&amp;amp;ukey_trimLevel=18960&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a diagram that shows the key parts at the shift lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not really &lt;em&gt;stuck&lt;/em&gt; in gear, it's just that you can't change it with busted linkage.  Hopefully an easy and reasonably inexpensive fix.  If forks inside the transmission are broken, this will be very serious and expensive.  But I sincerely doubt the latter is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T22:33:55.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32050" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:48:40.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure generated at Top Dead Center on the Power stroke is very high.  A &quot;taller&quot; gasket will have a larger cross-sectional area exposed to this pressure, so high &quot;pounds/sq inch&quot; grows proportionately as the area increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the best Multi Layer Steel head gaskets are not designed to be part of the cylinder, just to seal the head to the block.  It's a gasket, not a spacer.  In addition, it will be impossible to achieve proper head-bolt torque with a tall &quot;squishy&quot; gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a pure copper gasket, you might be able to approach 100 thousandths of an inch total gasket thickness without failure, and proper head bolt torque.  Such a gasket would likely be custom and cost more than a new set of heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mechanic was right to advise against it.  (Although many have tried... even such folly as using TWO gaskets to double the height.  This doesn't end well in any story where one admits the truth...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On edit:   Also keep in mind that you can't just &quot;resurface&quot; the warp out of an Overhead Cam head.   The &lt;em&gt;entire&lt;/em&gt; head is warped, not just the surface that interfaces the block.  A proper head restoration will need a cam line bore and bearings.  I've had some luck with aluminum heads, carefully measured and shimmed between clamped steel jig plates, in my kitchen oven as high as it would go for five hours.  Cam bore alignment was restored, and only a .010 cut was required.  My wife (now ex), however, was NOT amused...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:18:27.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:18:27.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24546" CreationDate="2016-06-22T22:53:28.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To unlock the stereo, the 4-digit reset code is required. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7543138_reset-code-toyota-factory-stereo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the procedure to access the code entry screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the code, you have 3 attempts to guess it (.33% chance, good luck). After the 3 attempts, the owner of the car will have to take it to a Toyota dealership with proof of ownership and valid identification to gain access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T22:53:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T23:35:38.873" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove my 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 on the highway at 120 kph (65 mph) in second gear, and the engine died. Is it seized or can I repair it? The transmission fluid is still the proper color and doesn't look burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19267" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T00:17:26.390" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T18:11:55.707" Title="Engine died after driving fast on highway" Tags="|engine|ford|ranger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32058" CreationDate="2016-06-23T00:23:10.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can turn the engine over using the starter, the engine is not seized. Just because it died after such an event, doesn't mean it is going to do that. Definitely not good for the engine, but it doesn't mean it's seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how the engine died to tell you what exactly happened. If it just quit without any loud bang or loss of engine fluids, then it could possibly have seized, but still not a high probability of this. If there was a loud bang with loss of oil all over the road, that could be a thrown rod. I doubt this happened, otherwise you'd have mentioned it (kinda hard to miss an oil spill the size of what the Exxon Valdez left behind). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if an engine seizes, it doesn't mean you've killed the engine. When an engine seizes, what happens most of the time is the rings grow in size until the point where the end gap is gone, then they grow a little more and stick in the bore. When they cool down, they release and the engine will run fine again. This doesn't mean it doesn't cause damage or wear and tear, because it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of this pans out, I'd suggest you have a different problem. You may be able to put a code reader on the OBD-II port (DLC) and get a read on what's going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, leave it in drive ... makes for a much happier engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T00:23:10.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T01:01:46.243" Score="1" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2007 Matrix idles between 1000 and 2,500 rpm and while driving there are times when the engine &quot;stutters&quot; almost like it's missing a plug... I checked the coolant level while the engine was cold and the level was exactly on the LOW mark... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the temperature gauge needle goes up and down...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what maybe the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T01:01:46.243" Title="Engine Service Light - Erratic Idling 2007 Toyota Matrix" Tags="|toyota|matrix|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2016-06-23T03:26:38.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Synchronizers are friction devices. They are most commonly made out of brass although other materials may be used. Brass is a soft metal and as it wears down the power it produces would not damage other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The synchronizer resembles two cones that fit one inside the other. One cone is attached to the blocking ring and the other to the gear train. In neutral none of the synchronizers are touching. As you begin to shift and the blocking ring moves toward a gear the first thing to make contact is the synchronizer. The synchronizer inside the blocking ring is spring loaded and as more pressure is applied to the shift more pressure is applied to the synchronizer. When enough pressure is applied the synchronizers stop slipping and start rotating as a single unit matching the speed of the great train and blocking ring. Finally the blocking ring engages the dog teeth of the gear train and the transmission is in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal chosen for the synchronizer, the surface area that touches inside the synchronizer, and the pressure of the springs are all factors that are chosen keeping in mind that everything will be swimming in gear lube. Not only does the gear lube provide lubrication it also provides cooling by transferring heat from inside the gear train to the transmission outer case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 5th gear was at the top of the transmission then it would go dry first if the transmission has a slow leak. At first the increase in friction from lack of gear oil inside the synchronizer would improve performance but at the cost of increased wear. Also with a lack of oil inside the synchronizer cooling would be diminished further speeding up the wear process. If 5th gear is at the top of the transmission it may have failed by now and refilling the transmission with oil may not bring it back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further illustrate the importance of the correct friction inside the synchronizers. I worked on the manual transmission where the customer added Slick 50 oil additive. The transmission began grinding in every gear. The synchronizers could not do their job because the friction inside them was reduced to such a low level. Several drain and fill of carb cleaner and a refill of clean gear lube fixed the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific to the transmission of the original poster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the parts explosion that was provided the transmission has two shafts, input shaft and main shaft. The main shaft has two blocking rings. One of the blocking rings serves 1-2 and reverse (how it also serves reverse i don't know but i'm willing to bet that it has something to do with the gear that's built into it). The other blocking ring serves 3-4. The final blocking ring is on the input shaft and is labeled OD (overdrive) this is 5th gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the picture provided in the post, the shaft in the foreground the main shaft as indicated by the two blocking rings. The shaft that's peeking out from behind the main shaft is the input shaft. The shift fork can be seen on the left. Extrapolating the orientation of the transmission the input shaft is the highest shaft in the transmission. This makes it plausible that 5th gear would go dry first damaging the synchronizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="11911" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T23:17:09.757" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T23:17:09.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32063" CreationDate="2016-06-23T03:36:32.423" Score="7" ViewCount="4548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compression stroke at TDC or Exhaust at TDC or somewhere else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this position fixed or does it depend on other conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19273" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T18:41:07.983" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T07:44:22.210" Title="Where does the piston stop after the ignition is turned off?" Tags="|engine|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32062" CreationDate="2016-06-23T03:53:13.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's random.  Usually won't come to a stop at top or bottom dead center because theres nothing to drive it to that point, and one of the pistons will be building compression at any given time of the engine cycle. So without some powering source to force it to a high compression location, it'll stop somewhere mid-stroke. Plus the crank wants to roll off from top dead naturally, so chances are that even if it came to rest right on the, it woukd go ahead and rotate to mid-stroke.  Of course, that doesn't mean it cant or never happens, but chances are slim.  Plus the rotating assembly should be pretty much balanced, so if all other factors are removed, it woukd tend to set at a mid-stroke where all of the components are balanced with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T03:53:13.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32058" CreationDate="2016-06-23T04:03:38.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it just died without any loud noises or the wheels locking up, and still cranks by key or by hand, then it's almost definitely not seized.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of things, like timing belt, lack of fuel/spark, or sensor failure. As suggested, connecting it to diagnostic computer may be helpful to point you in the right direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T18:11:55.707" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T18:11:55.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32050" CreationDate="2016-06-23T04:14:35.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can compensate for decking loss with a thicker gasket, and there are many on the market for Honda engines (esp the b Series).  I can't say how well they hold up tho, but I know people who have successfully used them in Frankenstein builds (b18b bottom with bseries vtec head) with a fair amount of boost, and they seem to do fine, and they are also commonly used when a stock head is milled due to warpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Id say it's worth a shot if you want to try, knowing that its a 50/50 chance and that you may end up having to buy a new head regardless. But if you are going to have to replace the head anyway, and are willing to experiment, I say go for it if you can find one that's the thickness you would need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T04:14:35.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31793" CreationDate="2016-06-23T04:22:25.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Id be leaning toward an ignition problem. If theres an ignition control module, or something similar that controls the spark by taking readouts on various ignition and engine sensors, that's where I'd start.  If the problem gets worse as engine warms, but seems fine when cold,  that also indicates an electronic problem. As the part fails further, it will go from period symptoms, to more regular occurance when warm, but eventually happen worse and more frequently without heat until (possibly) the car won't even start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with testing parts like this, or coil packs (as previously mentioned), is that it's often the case that they'll read out fine until they get hot. So to get a proper test result, you need to take the car for a spin, tools in hand, and test during the time when the symptoms are occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T04:22:25.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2016-06-23T06:04:52.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common 2005-2009 Prius problem. Prius Chat gives a good explanation on how to change them. I recommend you don't get replacement parts from salvage yard. I did this and the door stops again wore out in a few months. It's a pain when the door keeps shutting on you while you unload groceries. I wish there was an affordable aftermarket solution because it's an easy DIY change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19277" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T06:04:52.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32004" CreationDate="2016-06-23T08:58:11.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here's what I've learned in the past couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is a simple way of assessing the condition of brake discs/rotors. For every car there is a minimum thickness for the brake discs. Once they get below that thickness it's safe to say that they're past their lifetime. For my specific model (Fiat Punto 2001 Sporting) that thickness is 10.2mm. I found this info in a Haynes manual for the vehicle. It's not too hard to find the same info for any other car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car braking fine is not a good indicator of the condition of the brake discs since it's quite possible to use them and the brake pads until their very physical end without noticeable issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmcY9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmcY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn discs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=check+brake+discs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many&lt;/a&gt; videos on YouTube that explain how one can accurately measure the thickness of their brake discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the thickness is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27548/what-are-the-visual-signs-that-brake-rotors-must-be-replaced&quot;&gt;not the only way to assess the condition of a brake disc&lt;/a&gt; but it is the easiest and most indicative assessment approach for a rookie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine were indeed below their minimum thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19225" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T08:58:11.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T13:26:35.647" Score="1" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tear about 3-4 inches long on my canvas rag top. The cost of a new one is 700 bucks and I rather not pay that if I can get away with a patch for now. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17250" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T13:26:35.647" Title="What is a good solution for patching a tear in a canvas rag top?" Tags="|repair|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-23T17:09:59.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:08:53.243" Score="2" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;6.6 duramax diesel engine cranks good cold but periodically won't crank hot unless I use starting fluid. This usually happens after engine has been turned off about 30 minutes. Also if idles for several minutes accelerator is very slow to react sometimes have to push it several times before it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19281" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:50:37.100" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:50:37.100" Title="Hot cranking problem on 6.6 duramax" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32062" CreationDate="2016-06-23T15:03:07.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; random, as there will always be one piston that is approaching TDC, and the compression building in that cylinder will ultimately cause the engine to stop.  Any cylinder that makes it over TDC, will have a &quot;spring&quot; action that will tend to maintain RPM, as the compression energy is now released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is critical to the brilliant and bizarre Mitsubishi stop-start system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Zero mph for a certain delay time stops spark and fuel injection.  Engine dies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Throttle position (pulling away from stop sign) instantly requests a restart from the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECU analyzes cam position sensor(s) to determine which cylinder has the piston &lt;em&gt;close&lt;/em&gt; to (but before) TDC on compression stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel is injected into that cylinder and sparked to ignite.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Piston forced downward, but engine is running BACKWARDS!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ECU monitors next cylinder to reach close to TDC, injects and fires BEFORE TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Engine now runs reversed-reverse direction (correctly) and ECU takes over and runs engine normally, satifying acceleration request.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's brilliant how this system works, and it takes place in milliseconds, all within 3/4 of a crank revolution.  Note that these vehicles were sold without any electric starter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point I'm trying to make, is that you maynot  know &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; cylinder will be on compression just short of TDC, but you are always guaranteed there will be one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On edit:&lt;/strong&gt;  I can't easily find a reference.  I may be confusing this with Mazda's SISS system, which began as &quot;starterless&quot; but then later became a &quot;starter-assist&quot; function.  And the Mazda system at one point used &lt;strong&gt;ECU-controlled alternator load to brake the engine into an exact known location&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I taught this system at vocational college a few years ago out of Halderman's &lt;em&gt;Automotive Technology&lt;/em&gt; or maybe some Cenguage textbook.  I had never heard of it myself before then.  I'll try to dig up the original reference.  I still think it was Mitsubishi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, most of these trick things have been abandoned for conventional electric restarting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:42:11.623" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:42:11.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T17:17:34.077" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tach,temp guage and fuel guage work fine when car is cool but when the car gets hot ( just sitting parked motor not running ) all 3 guages quit working . Any ideas ? Would deeply appreciate any ideas on what is causing it . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19288" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T19:10:37.633" Title="1988 Prelude guages stop working when hot" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2016-06-23T19:10:37.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something similar on a GM product in the early 80's. It was a cold solder joint on the voltage regulator feeding the guages in the instrument cluster. You can also check for cracks or breaks in the circuit board. This involves removing the instrument cluster and carefully examine visually. Check for continuity using an multimeter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T19:10:37.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-23T22:29:40.190" Score="8" ViewCount="20885" Body="&lt;p&gt;Behind the brake rotors is a dust shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC7H2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC7H2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in removing the dust shields on my car because I'm looking to install larger calipers than what my car originally came with. What is the purpose of this dust shield and what would be some consequences in cutting or removing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T22:15:39.890" Title="What does the dust shield behind the brakes do?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32076" CreationDate="2016-06-23T22:49:58.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It protects brake disks from dust and mud. Brake pads will wear out much faster without it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;IMHO, cutting will not harm anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19291" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T22:49:58.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T01:17:05.547" Score="-1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;what are some upgrades? &#xA;throttle body lift? &#xA;cutout and sleeve cat? &#xA;runs well as is. I own a 700 Polaris and want to tow it around my Colorado mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19293" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T16:42:14.857" Title="2005 ford freestyle aftermarket upgrades for Hp" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32360" CreationDate="2016-06-24T04:08:47.527" Score="1" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2003 Mazda Tribute that has the airbag warning light come on most days now (the frequency has been slowly increasing over several months).  The light now comes on almost every time I drive in the car in the afternoon or evening when the car is hot, but almost never in the morning when it's cool, having been been parked overnight in the garage.  Over the past couple of weeks I've tried to capture the blink codes (it blinks with an error code several times before staying lit for the rest of a drive).  The strange part is that I'm seeing several different codes, 44, 45, and 46.  45 and 46 mean that there is a signal issue to the drivers and passenger seat sensors, and 44 I think is for some other sensor.  I think it very unlikely that multiple sensors would all go bad in just a few months, and the apparent heat-sensitivity makes me even more suspicious that it is something else.  After doing some googling, it looks like several people have had issues with the connectors under the seats going bad, and that would make sense with the heat sensitivity, but it still seems unlikely that the connectors would go bad within months of each other after 13 years.  Does anyone else have experience with this issue?  Is there something else I can check before resorting to costly airbag system replacements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T13:28:33.350" Title="2003 Mazda Tribute Airbag Warning Light" Tags="|heat|supplemental-restraint-system|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32083" CreationDate="2016-06-24T06:51:49.090" Score="3" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a brass brush by hand to clean the carbon off the aluminium head of my BMW R80GS 1991. The valves however are very stubborn, a brass dremel head won't do it either. I started using a soft steel dremel head which works a bit, but I'm afraid of damaging the valves.&#xA;I believe the valves are hardened steel and not so easily damaged? Also I would be careful and not get to close to the valve seats. There I use a brass brush by hand.&#xA;I've also taken some of the chunks off the valves with a small screw driver (very carefully). Is that OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered ovencleaner but cannot find anything not containing sodium hydroxide (aggressive for aluminium).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T06:56:11.933" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T07:02:16.637" Title="Can I use hard tools to remove hardened carbon buildup on valves?" Tags="|engine|valve|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32076" CreationDate="2016-06-24T06:54:10.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shield has several purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water splash shield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust, rock and dirt shield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It directs cooling air over the rotors and pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that rotor cooling could be significantly affected due to changes in cooling air routing. Increased water splash could increase the possibility of shock cooling of the rotors. Large particles such as small stones could more easily reach the caliper to rotor interface with resulting in noise and maybe binding. Increased rotor scoring as more larger dirt particles reach the rotor pad interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T06:54:10.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32081" CreationDate="2016-06-24T07:02:16.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is OK to used a metal tool on the valves. They are very hard and difficult to scratch. It is also OK to use oven cleaner on the valves. The steel is a relative of stainless and will be little affected by harsh cleaners.  This is not true for the aluminum head and the valve seats are usually softer than the valves but are still hardened steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T07:02:16.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32096" CreationDate="2016-06-24T10:49:16.343" Score="6" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of replacing my car's radio panel with a custom built Raspberry Pi device, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a15446/diy-touchscreen-dashboard-raspberry-pi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this device&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's usefulness would be much larger, if I could get information from the on-board computer that's built into the dash-board, in particular the immediate fuel consumption. Together with a GPS sensor it would be possible to analyze and optimize fuel efficiency per km at different speeds and landscapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How difficult, if possible at all, would it be to read this kind of data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T05:23:50.903" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T09:35:02.103" Title="Tapping into the on-board computer" Tags="|ford|obd-ii|fuel-consumption|electronic-control-module|electronics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T11:34:04.777" Score="4" ViewCount="2712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Renault Megane 2 1.5 dci with 150,000 km on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sign the injection fault, then the engine stops or makes rattling noises. I noticed that the hose back fuel for air bubbles that appear periodically. When I hand pump the Priming Pump, then the engine starts to work better and nearly stops, while after travelling 20-30 km, again the injection fault appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test nozzle to return from their fuel and all returned the same amount of diesel. I changed the camshaft and crankshaft Sensor. Before changing the camshaft sensor I had problems starting the engine. Now this problem is solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19299" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T13:24:43.323" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:24:43.323" Title="injection fault Renault Megane 2 1.5dci" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-27T17:14:19.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T12:09:54.890" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;after I take my foot off of the brake and/or when I am going up a grade the whine or beeeeep sound .. usually I have driven a half hour or more sometimes sooner &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19301" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T12:09:54.890" Title="my 2000 vw eurovan makes a whining sound" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T12:56:40.333" Score="4" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer with 237755 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just informed that I have a blown head gasket and oil is leaking into my coolant. On my way into work this morning my check engine light was blinking (this is the second time this has happened). I don't have the money to purchase a new car nor do I want to spend the money to get everything repaired on my car. (Total estimate of $4,071.25 including labor) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will my car last? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can prolong this issue until I can afford to buy another car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19303" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T18:34:59.033" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T18:34:59.033" Title="2002 Chevy Blazer - Oil in coolant" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|head-gasket|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32089" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:22:29.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a blown headgasket, it won't last long - a few miles at most. Keep going too long as the engine will overheat and sieze up, and then you'll need a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you get a few more quotes - You don't state where you are in the world, but the gaskets themselves are cheap, and it shouldn't need much more than half a day's labour - around here it is about £4-500, so maybe US$6-800 for a back-street garage to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:22:29.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32092" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:19:34.163" Score="7" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I search for a MAF (mass air flow) sensor on a parts website, I see some that are sold with the housing and some without. A mechanic gave me a quote that correlates price-wise with the full sensor + housing part. Is there any reason why I'd want to replace the housing (and not just the sensor) if the old one is not broken/cracked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9469" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:47:38.213" Title="Should you replace the MAF sensor housing when replacing the MAF sensor itself?" Tags="|maf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32091" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:47:38.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't if there are no obvious defects in the housing. Sometimes parts stores will only sell items as the complete package. When buying a thermostat from oreilly's auto parts for my forenza the only thing they would sell me is the whole housing unit with the thermostat. When searching on ebay, I found the thermostat without needing to buy the housing as well. Moral of the story, always look for the single part you need before buying the entire unit. I'd save yourself a few bucks and just go with the sensor itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:47:38.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:54:46.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Civic developed same symptoms. I am pretty certain it is the compressor clutch. I examined the compressor and noticed that the clutch on the front was rusty. Not scaley but brown.  I downed the clutch assembly with WD 40. Worked. Maybe a short term fix but I'm not hot for the time being. If you try this don't spray on the belt nor the alternator fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19304" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:54:46.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32085" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:08:56.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To affirm Max's answer, yes this shouldn't be too difficult. Here's a great link to get you started &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cowfishstudios.com/blog/obd-pi-raspberry-pi-displaying-car-diagnostics-obd-ii-data-on-an-aftermarket-head-unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cowfishstudios.com/blog/obd-pi-raspberry-pi-displaying-car-diagnostics-obd-ii-data-on-an-aftermarket-head-unit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very cool project, it'll be interesting to see how it turns out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T15:08:56.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32085" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:13:58.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has a OBD2/ODBII port then it is achievable. I'd imaging the simplest way would be to use a ELM327 type cable or even a bluetooth adapter to provide the interface between the pi and the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16908" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T15:13:58.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32085" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:14:16.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot easily &quot;tap&quot; into any ECU/PCM. Depending on what year your vehicle is, it could be a simple set of analog gauges which you could tap into the signal line, but you'll need to do some hardware design to convert the signals to usable data. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a newer vehicle, you'll have to deal with the canbus protocol and that will be very difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to get an OBD2 (ob-board diagnostics II) adapter which will allow you to capture the data the ECU/PCM is broadcasting. What it broadcasts are PIDs (programmable identifiers). For example, a PID would be speed, engine RPM, engine coolant temp, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get fuel consumption, you'll need to do some calculations. Fuel level/Fuel consumption is not a PID that the ECU/PCM commonly broadcasts even if it is shown on the dashboard. The dashboard/gauges will be controlled via canbus while the PIDs will be broadcast using OBD2 protocol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your pi you can connect to the OBD2 adapter (Get one for ~$30-$90 in amazon) via bluetooth or wifi and then read which ever PIDs you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN bus &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBD2 &lt;a href=&quot;https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/getting-started-with-obd-ii&quot;&gt;Getting Started with OBD-II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you can just get an obd2 adapter and use an android phone/tablet and run Torque Pro which will do everything you're looking for. I use this all the time in my cars when I'm at the track or testing modifications. It will do all the calculations for you for fuel mileage/consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a screen shot I took of Torque reading some of the available PIDs for my car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfRCV.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfRCV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastEditorUserId="912" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T15:19:39.813" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T15:19:39.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32100" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:55:15.983" Score="4" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Pontiac Torrent. Sometimes my car won't start. When I turn the ignition it will just click, but when I turn the wheel a little it will crank. Could it be the starter? I just got a new starter 10 months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T22:31:34.710" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T19:23:58.140" Title="What would keep my 2007 Pontiac Torrent from starting?" Tags="|starting|pontiac|torrent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32079" CreationDate="2016-06-24T16:42:14.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're serious about increasing power, you will have to spend some serious money to do it. The car is usually tuned from the factory to output an acceptable amount of power while maintaining good fuel economy. Installing a Cold Air or Short Ram Intake (CAI or SRI) system, a less restrictive exhaust, a piggyback ECU, and getting the car tuned by a professional with experience in Ford engine software can provide a noticeable increase in horsepower. Expect to pay as much as 1000 USD for a ~30hp gain, and expect to lose some fuel efficiency. In my opinion, your money would be better spent investing in a stronger tow vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T16:42:14.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32097" CreationDate="2016-06-24T17:46:26.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds more like a problem with the ignition switch, possibly some kind of interference with the steering wheel lock. Do you usually park on the street with your wheels turned? If so, maybe try to make sure your wheels are pointed straight before you shut off the car. This should take the binding out of the steering linkage and put less stress on the steering wheel lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T17:46:26.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32103" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:02:38.963" Score="3" ViewCount="2092" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2012 convertible V6 Ford Mustang and there is a very small crack developing in a crease on my roof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpCxF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpCxF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vinyl Tear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the top is made from Vinyl and I must confess that I've neglected it. The first 2 years of the cars life were outdoors and I tried to clean off crud with water when it got on there, the last 2 1/2 years have been garaged and the car has only been out in good weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I mend this tear, and what kind of stuff do I need to treat the top with to prevent this from happening again? I'd like for this baby to last!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a slightly larger view of the roof - I'm pointing at the location of the crack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65HaX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/65HaX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crack Location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="6756" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T12:17:41.383" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T12:17:41.383" Title="Convertible top vinyl small crack repair" Tags="|ford|repair|mustang|soft-top|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32045" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:42:13.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard the term &quot;steering effort&quot; used, seems appropriate. It's not quantifiable, but it gets the idea across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T18:42:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32101" CreationDate="2016-06-24T19:01:43.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a flexible epoxy or something like a cloth/heavy-duty repair tape: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-clear-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-clear-repair&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/tenacious-tape#10691&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/tenacious-tape#10691&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T19:01:43.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11527" CreationDate="2016-06-24T23:50:37.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wrench trick did it for me.  Carefully applied pressure with a long handled wrench and just when I thought it wasn't going to work-pop! No damage to the glass, either.  The hardest part was finding the button after it popped off.  It ended up under the passenger side seat almost under the rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19315" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T23:50:37.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2016-06-25T02:08:26.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few corrections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) moisture in the system does NOT cause the suction line to frost up on the outside.  Quite the opposite.  Moisture in the system will freeze at the orifice tube or Tx valve and block the flow of refrigerant.  No refrigerant flow, no cooling.  But that will let the ice inside the orifice/valve melt, and it will cool again, then freeze again, and repeat forever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) evap cores are actually more common failures since going to the higher pressure R134a instead of R12.  The most common failures I have seen are (a) condenser where a rock or road FOD knocks a hole/crack in the condenser;  (b) O-ring failure and most any point and (c) compressor failure. All of the non-compressor parts don't move, so the seals inside there are stressed more and fail more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) some vehicles have what is commonly a receiver/dryer that is on the low pressure side.  If the R134a connection is on the evap side of that, you can allow liquid refrigerant in (can upside down) with no problem as that is what the accumulator is for, to prevent liquid refrigerant from reaching the compressor.  If you are not sure, always keep the can upright if you are running the compressor to introduce refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a good A/C repair book at most auto parts stores.  They give details about proper suction and high-pressure line pressures.  But by far the best choice is to have the refrigerant reclaimed, then evacuate with a good vacuum pump for at least 30 minutes to boil off all moisture, then fill with specified amount.  No guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that newer cars use much less freon.  I drive a Toyota Tacoma that requires 22oz, just under two 12 oz cans.  My wife's previous Honda was something like 16oz.  If you overfill you can quickly buy a compressor, as they do NOT like liquid in the suction line, it won't compress, and something has to give.  At idle, you might feel a very rough idle and squealing belt.  If you turn it on while on the highway, you will likely hear a rattle of death at the very least...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19317" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T02:08:26.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T03:00:56.173" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the level of the refrigerant checked and it was low, and the guy i bought the car from said he hadn't driven it in over a year, so I bought a can and filled it up. Air cooled off a bit then warmed up again. checked the level again and it was low again. I'm assuming this is a pretty bad leak. What's the easiest way to find the leak and/or fix this issue. It doesn't seem like refrigerant with the stop leak stuff with help this one bit, plus i heard they're not a very good option anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19318" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T05:37:24.523" Title="Easiest way to find a refrigerant leak on a 1999 Olds Intrigue" Tags="|ac|leak|oldsmobile|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-25T18:29:06.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32118" CreationDate="2016-06-25T04:32:12.080" Score="4" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed a difference that when the fuel in the tank is low, it takes a bit more time for the bike to accelerate to a higher speed than if the fuel tank is mid level or full. Same thing said by a person in this video too: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC1kaBBCC7A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC1kaBBCC7A&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed this with cars too. After I fill more fuel, the car responds much better to acceleration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen? In the bike, the fuel flows downward, so it couldn't be because of liquid pressure. The carburetor would still be getting the same amount of fuel, so it couldn't be that either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:20:14.517" Title="Why does the engine have lesser pulling strength when the fuel in the tank is lesser?" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|fuel-tank|acceleration|handling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32128" CreationDate="2016-06-25T04:42:41.923" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Honda Accord 2002 SE. Today my a/c was blowing not as cold as it used to be, so I checked refrigerant level. It was high in red and I decided to discharge it pushing on the high end port. Somehow I emptied it down to zero pressure, so I filled it again with refrigerant to normal pressure for this weather...And this made it worse, ac started to blow heat! (sounds like magic, but true) Eventually, it gets back to outside temperature and gauge reads zero again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why when my car has refrigerant it blows hot air? Did I break the physics of the universe?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13141" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T18:19:58.743" Title="AC Blowing Heat" Tags="|honda|ac|accord|air-compressor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T05:23:46.440" Score="4" ViewCount="5375" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (Suzuki Mehran) horn works only sometimes after many days and with very low sound. The problem started when I turned on car ac about a month ago. In start the horn sound became low whenever car ac was on. &#xA;But now even without ac, the car horn rarely works with a very low sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think its battery problem because lights and other things work fine and the battery is new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19320" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-10-30T00:56:33.110" LastActivityDate="2017-10-30T00:56:33.110" Title="Car horn works only sometimes and with very very low sound" Tags="|car|noise|horn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32109" CreationDate="2016-06-25T05:37:24.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you consider easy. It's possible to fill your system and then spray the entire ac system down with soapy water to watch for air bubbles escaping from the lines, but this is a tedious task. There are cans of refrigerant with uv dye placed in them also, so what you can do is fill your system with one of the uv dye cans and then drive around for a few days with your ac on. Then, you either find a uv light for yourself to look for the leak or take it into a mechanic in order for them to look for the leaked dye. AC systems are typically troublesome and require a good deal of effort to diagnose problems unfortunately. Good luck with your leak hunting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T05:37:24.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32127" CreationDate="2016-06-25T09:28:02.027" Score="1" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange sequence of events, hoping someone can figure it out with me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving home and first noticed after 30 mins of driving the temperature was very, very low. It is winter here in Aus but it's never been that low before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the battery warning light started flickering, but only when the engine was above 2.5k rpm. I pulled over to check the battery terminal connections and they were fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, about an hour into my trip the radio, fuel gauge and temp gauge died. The car still ran and I had lights and indicators but it idled rough and the dash lights were very dim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally got home, checked the terminal connections again (fine) and turned off the car. It wouldn't start again - didn't even turn over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what this could be? Dead battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a Mk1 VW Golf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:45:05.060" Title="Sudden loss of some electrics whilst driving" Tags="|electrical|battery|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32112" CreationDate="2016-06-25T12:21:04.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see how many volts the horn relay is sending to the horn. if it's less than ignition voltage at the horn either the relay is bad or you have a wiring problem. If you have ignition voltage at the horn make sure it's not touching anything and check for a good ground to the chassis. Otherwise replace the horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also sometimes the switch in the steering wheel or the clockspring can go bad and may be sending a partial ground to the relay not allowing it to ground the horn relay coil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T12:21:04.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T13:02:49.960" Score="2" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Toyota Camry. Bought it from dealership a year and 3 months ago. I went from 150,000 to 170,000 miles on the Odometer. Overtime the car started to shift rough (automatic vehicle). I changed the transmission fluid and even added the Lucas transmission repair. It still shifts rough. Car runs well, but it just jerks hard whenever it shifts gears. What could the issue be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on a side note, some people said it maybe a computer part need replacing but the Check engine light isn't on and no codes show up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastEditorUserId="19321" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T13:13:57.503" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T13:13:57.503" Title="1999 Toyota Camry Transmission issue" Tags="|toyota|transmission|automatic-transmission|camry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31960" CreationDate="2016-06-25T13:47:23.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the only option other than an aftermarket system would be to goto a Toyota dealer or a independent shop with the Toyota TechStream Software and to enable this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this option should be on by default but was never setup or was disabled for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks you may be able to do this from the Multi-Display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SET UP / Vehicle / Vehicle Customization / Other vehicle settings..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T13:47:23.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32110" CreationDate="2016-06-25T14:24:12.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a motorcycle with a carburetor with gravity fed fuel line. (i.e. Without a fuel pump of any sort). In those conditions I can see that there is a higher fuel pressure at the inlet to the carburetor when the fuel tank is full. It's possible that when the tank is low the pressure is barely enough to meet fuel demand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, you need to improve fuel flow between the tank and the carburetor. Fuel line and petcock could be too small (diameter). You could have a partially clogged fuel filter or residual crud in bottom of tank restricting fuel flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that your carburetor's fuel bowl system isn't working correctly. The fuel bowl in the carburetor acts as a little reservoir of fuel to ensure there is always fuel available to meet fuel demand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with checking the filter and tank for dirt and crud. Let us know what you find!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm. I watched that video before I responded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing sounds like the newest religion. You just gotta have faith. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say I'm not a rookie at this stuff. I worked at a Detroit car company where I managed the sale and engineering of millions of fuel tanks.  I'm more than familiar with fuel tanks, pumps, carbon canisters &amp;amp; reservoirs. I'm really good in troubleshooting related issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing on your car is fooey. Facts not in evidence. Pure snake oil. &quot;You can see it if only you are a true believer&quot;. Ditto for the person in the video. (Or he just has a clogged fuel filter :^). You probably shouldn't believe everything you read on the internet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on your bike if you do have a true measurable difference in acceleration do check for dirt and debris between tank and carburetor. Hint. A measurable difference here implies the use of a dynamometer (or simple stopwatch on a measured and marked distance, given exactly same conditions except fuel level in tank. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T17:20:14.517" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:20:14.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32157" CreationDate="2016-06-25T15:41:16.783" Score="2" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;The halo lights or angel lights or day time running lights have gone on one side. I was wondering if this was a bit job or a BMW job. I've looked at the rings and it's not led it just looks like a fiber like glass which has a feed from a bulb under the wheel arch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway of telling if it's a bulb or the actual ring? Strange both rings have stopped working on the right hand side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19322" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T02:35:33.817" Title="BMW 3 series e40 2011 halo / angel eyes" Tags="|bmw|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32119" CreationDate="2016-06-25T15:53:56.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going from very simple first principles, just try and eliminate possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, look at the bulb itself. Even partially removing it should let you see whether it lights. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, swap the left and right bulbs - does the problem follow the bulb? If it does, replace the bulb. &#xA;If it's not the bulb, it's something wrong with the ring itself - perhaps the light guide is broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T15:53:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31934" CreationDate="2016-06-25T16:13:50.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank and/or cam sensor will cause a crank no start scenario. Did you test for spark at the plug to verify it's actually firing?  It sounds like it's not if it won't try to run with fuel put directly in the cylinder. This would indicate the sensor not sending the data to the computer to tell it where the cam or crank position is at, which helps determine when it would fire the plugs. Also, I've seen some vehicles that don't throw an engine light code for these sensors, but some do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T16:13:50.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T16:36:33.013" Score="5" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car was run out of oil due to plug not installed properly. Now harmonic balancer has come off. Can this be due to warping of the crank shaft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19323" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T17:22:50.507" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T13:18:44.060" Title="Can running a car with zero oil warp the crank shaft, in turn causing the harmonic balancer to shake off?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32125" CreationDate="2016-06-25T17:10:07.617" Score="5" ViewCount="1666" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 of the wires on my motorbike were cut and used to hotwire it. It's been recovered and I need to permanently connect these back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best and easiest way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGcFp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGcFp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of Cut Wires&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image of the wires in their current state can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yIKV3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; with the red lines indicating which wires need to be reconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19326" OwnerDisplayName="M A" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T18:32:04.813" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T18:32:04.813" Title="What is the best way to repair these motorbike wires?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|repair|wiring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T17:34:57.010" Score="2" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a honda city 2008 but my issue is when at 80km/h, i car start to vibrate, and when i apply break it vibrate as well in 80Km/h. But if am under 70km/hr it dose not vibrate. Kindly shred light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19325" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T10:32:33.067" Title="Repair question on wheel vibration" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32123" CreationDate="2016-06-25T17:38:21.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way (high quality of job, pride in workmanship) is to:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up an assortment of different diameters of heat shrink tubing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the entire harness from the bike. Do NOT skip this step. If you try to cut corners here the results will be bad. (No Whining!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the sheathing back ten inches from the damage area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase up a few feet of the same gauge of red braided wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are going to be soldering in replacement sections of wire. You will want at least a 1/2&quot; of copper overlap, preferably 3/4&quot; or more (and that's why we had you purchase extra wire in the step above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are going to have to really think about the heat shrink tubing before you start the repair. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will want a separate heat shrink on each wire and a larger heat shrink on the harness as an assembly.  That will require you to think about each step in the process and think about four steps ahead so the heat shrink is in the right place at the right time.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative method is to use these crimp on connectors:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyZt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyZt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crimp on connector.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'll work, maybe. Until they don't.  I'm not a fan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T17:46:56.930" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:46:56.930" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32111" CreationDate="2016-06-25T17:45:01.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;gauge gets back to zero&quot; at any time, on either the low or high side, you have a leak.  Perhaps a very large one.  The gauge should &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; read zero, unless ALL the refrgerant has leaked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you discharged the high side, are you certain the schrader valve core in the port re-seated?   Or that debris hasn't ended up under the conical seal, allowing a huge leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This happens to be &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; common spot for a great number of A/C system leaks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; normal for the high pressure port to blow &quot;air&quot;, refrigerant, or make any kind of &lt;em&gt;pshhh&lt;/em&gt; noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a special tool, not unlike the ones used on tire valve stems, for removing the schrader core from the port(s) and replacing them.  Both the tool and the new valve core are very inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sometimes they just get loose, and need to be re-tightened to seal properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible (this is just an old man's guess) that you had poor cooling because the gauge indicated it was too high pressure, and the high-limit switch cut out the A/C.  By discharging the high side, you may have inadvertently created a leak on the port which can no longer hold pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:45:01.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32114" CreationDate="2016-06-25T17:45:05.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a dead alternator. I had that same issue years ago with an '89 VW fox. The reason that everything was slowly shutting down is because you driving on the battery alone. As the battery was getting drained the voltage was  falling below the affected component operating threshold voltage and they would begin to cut out. The process would take about 30-45 minutes of drive time. Car batteries are designed basically to start the engine not to run the car full time. Under normal conditions once the engine is started the alternator runs every system in the vehicle and also charges the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to change both the alternator and the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T17:45:05.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32111" CreationDate="2016-06-25T18:19:58.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you didn't break the laws of physics. In fact, you confirmed them. If you &quot;refilled&quot; the refrigerant in the system from cans without pulling a very strong vacuum, you still have regular air in the system, and it will not cool.  You are also subjecting the internal components to moisture, and that's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AC refrigeration emptying and refilling is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a do-it-yourself project. You need special equipment to refill the system properly (full vacuum for 24 hours followed by pressurized refilling and lubricant). The good professional mechanics will check for leaks and fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topping off some R-134 occasionally (no more than once a year) is okay, but more often means you need help from someone with experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T18:19:58.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T18:41:55.317" Score="0" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the key on all you hear is the relay click, no starter noise.  New battery and new starter are on it.  What could it be?  Is there a neutral safety switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19328" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T10:09:45.990" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T10:09:45.990" Title="1998 Toyota Pre Runner Will not start?" Tags="|toyota|starting|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32152" CreationDate="2016-06-25T18:58:38.790" Score="3" ViewCount="6489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hit a nasty bolt dead center of the tire on my Ford Ranger truck.  Sam's Club said they couldn't patch it because of the broken wires, but that someone else could probably plug it.  Went to Discount Tire and they told me it was too big to repair.  Went to Wal-Mart (expecting to just order a new tire) and they &quot;fixed&quot; it with a patch leaving the broken wires exposed.  Should I be concerned about the pictured repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmZaR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmZaR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Repair job.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19329" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T04:02:26.507" Title="Flat Repair with wire exposed?" Tags="|tires|repair|fix-a-flat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32134" CreationDate="2016-06-25T19:34:25.813" Score="8" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did a compression test on a Nissan B13 GA16DE and got 125, 127, 122 and 140 PSI (cold). A few years ago, all 4 cylinders got 135-140 PSI, cold. Shouldn't this loss of compression have led to a commensurate loss of power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-06-04T20:19:34.370" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T20:19:34.370" Title="Shouldn't a loss of compression equal a loss of power?" Tags="|engine|compression|horsepower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T19:39:14.657" Score="0" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a 3d model of a car with some specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question that I thought of now and also is a good question as I don't personally know the answer while driving my own car is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you not hit the car in front and also behind you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, how do you know when you're too close to the car in front(while driving forwards) and also the car behind(while reversing)? are there any reference points, etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19331" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:24:25.050" Title="How to not hit the car in front whatever the car?" Tags="|car|driving|parking|design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-27T08:59:04.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32150" CreationDate="2016-06-25T19:57:53.827" Score="6" ViewCount="2090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving an 04' Subaru Forester, and it needs some cleaning on the inside. I'm in my apartments underground parking garage, and I'm wondering, am I safe to idle the car (for the AC, lights on without worrying about battery) for ~30 minutes while I clean the inside? It's really hot outside, so that's why I prefer the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwuPH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwuPH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but, is this enough room to avoid &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbon monoxide&lt;/a&gt; poisoning? I've always read it's really only a risk in single or double car garages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12379" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T16:14:07.903" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:02:39.703" Title="How much room do I need to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning?" Tags="|subaru|exhaust|forester|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:38:03.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does lead to a loss of a power, but your compression is not worth worrying about. Every engine will loose some compression after a few years. New rings wear out faster at the beginning and later they wears out slowly, so probably you won't see a difference for another 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="12379" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T22:01:08.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T22:01:08.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:43:18.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really say &quot;you'll be okay&quot;, because it's about how our body reacts, but I'd say yes, it's enough. There are underground parkings where engines are running all the time. Also you can buy a little carbon monoxide sensor which will yell at you if it's too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just type &quot;carbon monoxide sensor&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EBay&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;; there are plenty of them for a cheap price. All are supposed to do the same job. Basically, they are similar to smoke alarms, but just aims at different stuff. I have both at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T16:13:59.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T16:13:59.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32132" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:50:57.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With today's car designs, you need to &quot;know where your corners are.&quot; Blind spots are preventing you from seeing how much space you really do have immediately around your vehicle, so you need to imagine, based on previous experience, how does an object look like when it's far enough away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to have a vehicle design where you can actually see how much space you have immediately around your vehicle. Think of a bicyle or a motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:50:57.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32132" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:52:15.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every single car is different, most of them have different steering angle, different turn radius, etc. So it's all about getting used to it. &#xA; But sometimes it doesn't work, especially on a long base comfortable cars, that's why designers invented parking sensors...&#xA; Many urban cars (small and maneuvrable) if you look from the top, they have really round bumper, so it doesn't really have any corners and gives plenty of a room..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T20:58:18.950" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:58:18.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32130" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:53:28.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires are really important to me as they are the only part of the car touching the ground. So with tire damage this extensive, I would replace the tire, even a pair of tires if I can't find the same make and model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:53:28.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32129" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:57:21.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you are in Park and the car knows it. I've had this happen to one of my vehicles where the shifter would be in Park, but the car wouldn't see that it's in Park because the shifter was &quot;wobbly&quot; when in Park. The shifter was clicked into the Park position, but it could still move around a little bit and stay in Park. For my vehicle, I need to give the shifter a little tap forward to make sure the car sees that it's in Park.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try Neutral. Move your shifter around, sometimes the car just can't see where the shifter is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your battery voltage using a multimeter ($15 at WalMart), should be 11.8V at an absolute minimum, 12.4-12.6V is preferred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:57:21.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32124" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:59:56.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may have a wheel that is out of balance. Sometimes, the balancing weights fall off. Visually inspect all your wheels and make sure you can see the balancing weight on all of them. They look like a little tab between the metal wheel and the rubber tire and usually have a number embossed on them. All wheel need one, if one's missing, there's your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:59:56.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32130" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:06:48.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see it as a massive hole. I'd keep driving, but still make sure my spare tire is ready for a job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:06:48.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32130" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:14:09.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the wires snapped like that I would not trust its structural integrity any more. I feel similarly to tlhingan - tyres are one of your most important safety features. You should never compromise on them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace now. Don't wait until something catastrophic happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:14:09.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32129" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:17:46.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The click must be a started solenoid, don't think you'd hear a relay solenoid. So it means it is in neutral, and a ECU knows it, and electricity goes to starter solenoid. Only doesn't get to a motor, unless motor end gear is stopping against a flywheel tooth. &#xA; If your lights on the dash becomes dark or disappears at starting moment, it means you have not enough electricity to turn over the starter motor (battery issue). If it just clicks, and lights looks okay, it means solenoid doesn't move the core as far as it should (stops against the flywheel). In this case you can try to stick it in 4 - 5 gear and turn over the crank. Just a bit, 1 degree is enough :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:17:46.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32132" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:20:06.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As said in the other answers, each car is different, and it's mostly experience, if you don't have these little electronic helpers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have one trick: Watch the light cones of your front light. As you move towards a wall or an other car, the cones become smaller and smaller, until they are ultimately as wide as your lights. So the width of the light cone (maybe together with a reflection of the light) give a good estimation on ow far away from the obstacle the lights are. There's still some experience needed, but it's quite easy. I manage to have 5cm (2&quot;) between my bumper and a wall this way.&#xA;However, it only works when you can see the light cones, and of course only for the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:20:06.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32132" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:24:25.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you have driven a few cars for a while you will get used to knowing from walking up to a car and getting in just how big it is. But until that time you can use some useful tricks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parallax: if you really want to get a good idea of distance, move your head from left to right to see how much a point on the object in front moves compared to a reference point on the front of your car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shadows: if the sun is in the right place this can be very precise, as can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reflections: in windows, doors or other vehicles polished paintwork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just practice. Big truck drivers can park in spaces only a couple of inches wider than their trailer, and that's a looong way back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:24:25.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32122" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:27:22.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically it shouldn't be the reason. &#xA;But talking about your crank - if you're running out of oil you have less oil, so it doesn't have a time to cool down. That leads to loss of a pressure. If you catch an air bubble, it reduces the pressure for a moment, but returns. &#xA; If you're a slow driver, I'd suggest to check a pressure. If your Oil warning light comes up at any time, it means your bearings are damaged. &#xA; If you love to rev it up, I'd suggest to check your mains.. Lift the car up, take the sump off, undo the main bearings and see the condition. Use a torque wrench for mains when assemble it back..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:27:22.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:34:32.270" Score="5" ViewCount="18986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a corolla 2012 and I want to make some modifications on it. I want the side mirrors to close and open when I press the the lock and unlock button of the remote control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has any idea of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:01:51.187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:24:12.490" Title="How to make the side mirrors open or close with the locks of the car?" Tags="|toyota|corolla|locks|mirrors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:55:44.280" Score="0" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;After turning the ignition the car will not make a sound.  The radio works, and all the lights work except the headlights.  What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19333" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:03:34.453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:03:34.453" Title="2000 Ford Focus will not start" Tags="|electrical|starting|manual-transmission|focus|service|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2016-06-25T22:16:10.033" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your Check Engine Light on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a rhetorical question, what I mean to say is that if your ’04 Forester is in good tune, it really should not produce that much carbon monoxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are really no long-term health hazzards of non-chronic carbon monoxide exposure, other than death.  (It binds with red blood cells in a way that prevents transport of oxygen.)  However, short of death, recovery is fairly quick and leaves no &quot;mark&quot; so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That garage area is &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt;.  I would not be concerned.  If you start feeling queasy or get a headache, you should shut off the ignition and get some fresh air outside.  The dosing rate of CO on a modern fuel injected vehicle in good tune is very low, such that it's unlikely you would pass out before noticing you are not feeling well.  In fact, morbid as it is, attempting suicide nowadays by running your modern car in the garage is likely to fail.  The first health hazzard will be the consumption and displacement of oxygen; displaced by carbon &lt;em&gt;dioxide&lt;/em&gt;, which is not nearly as toxic in the literal toxicology sense, but a hazzard if it displaces all available breathing oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very concerned, you can take the vehicle for a jaunty spin around a few miles, to get the vehicle in what's called &quot;Closed Loop&quot; — which will monitor and control CO emissions more precisely.  Your '04 Forrester has an electricaly heated oxygen sensor which will do this on its own, it just takes a bit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your safety is not mine to play with.  CO detectors are cheap enough, available at most hardware/DIY stores, and run off a 9V battery.  Once you're done detailing the interior, you can move it upstairs and run it in your apartment/home.  (The detector, not the Subaru…)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T01:02:39.703" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:02:39.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2016-06-25T22:53:42.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those numbers do not seem horrible, unless the 140psi is low.  You might want to repeat the test with the engine warm.  I generally feel that a cold test only reveals inter-cylinder differnces (in your worst case only 18psi), but dynamic compression after everything is warmed up and expanded might be much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T22:53:42.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32130" CreationDate="2016-06-25T23:00:03.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This damage is not acceptable. Water could get into the inner layers of the tire that contain the steel belts and corrode them which can lead to tread separation. Tread separation would result in tire failure that could lead to loss of control of the vehicle. Proper tire repair standards require that the hole be plugged to seal against water intrusion into the inner layers and belt area and that a surface patch be placed in the inner liner to seal the air leak. This is usually done with a &quot;patch plug&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See industry tire repair standards here.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tireindustry.org/tire-maintenance/tire-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tire repair standards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire patch plug  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8Q8H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8Q8H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plugs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broken cord wires alone would disqualify this tire from further use. The further fact that the wire sticking out would cause a patch plug unit to not completely seal the hole, even if one had been used, seals the tires fate. This is the reason that the repair techs that rejected the repair did so. They have been properly trained. As you found there are still lots of techs who have not been properly trained or choose to perform inappropriate repairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T04:02:26.507" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T04:02:26.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T23:31:15.060" Score="5" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 1994 Toyota Corolla sat for about 2 weeks without starting. Yesterday, it started and we moved it in order to repair a hose to the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, we tried to start it again, but it will not start or crank.  It doesn't click. The key will ding and the battery light and door-ajar light come on. The brake lights and hazards will work. The headlights come on when he touches a fuse under hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?  How do we diagnose this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19335" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T18:56:57.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T02:55:08.393" Title="1994 Toyota will not start or crank, but the key dings. What could this be?" Tags="|toyota|starting|corolla|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32149" CreationDate="2016-06-26T01:24:04.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car probably has a PATS key (a security feature), which prevents the ignition from starting if an unprogrammed key is used. Sometimes, a good key will go bad, and that's trouble, especially if you don't have a backup key. If you have a backup key, try it.  Hopefully, that will start the car. If it doesn't then the starter may be going bad or the security transponder in the car itself has gotten unprogrammed/zapped. I've seen that happen before, too. That's definitely a dealer ($$) item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your backup key does start it, go immediately to a locksmith or Lowes or Home Depot or Wal-Mart and get them to make a programmed duplicate.  It'll cost about $75-85, but the dealer will charge you double that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a backup key, then you'll either have to pay the dealer, or scour the internet for a trick.  I don't know if any of them work because I got 4 keys for my Ranger, and my best friend is a locksmith :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T01:24:04.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32149" CreationDate="2016-06-26T02:04:19.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brenda, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have one of fifty troubles giving you a no start condition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To run, a car needs a control system, and functional electricity.  The engine needs spark, fuel, and air in the proper mix.  Any defect could cause troubles.  But the good news is your car is equipped with a computer system that manages a good portion of these things. It also keeps record of problems. It uses an OnBoard Diagnostic (OBD2) system.. with that system you can plug in a code reader and that will tell you any stored fault codes.  Generally the fault code system is pretty decent and tells the mechanic what could possibly be wrong with your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your description, I'm guessing there will be codes set.  You can purchase a code reader ($80 and up), or if you live in the USA, many autoparts stores and mechanics will read the codes for you for free. Unfortunately you have to get the car to the store first, sigh.  Some manufacturers have designed a method without tools to read the codes using blinking cluster lights, but from what I can tell, not for your car.  (Instrument Cluster yes, but not for the engine computer.)  I'm pretty sure you will need to borrow or purchase the OBD2 reader tool.  The tool plugs into a connector underneath the steering wheel on your car.  Oh, and apparently you can't buy these readers if you live in California.  They are normally available at your autoparts store (or online).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your first action is to get the OBD codes from your car. (Buy a tool, borrow a tool or tow car to shop?)  When you get the codes, report back here!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recommended second action is for you to purchase a Chilton or Haynes Service manual.  $30 well spent. This will teach you how the different systems of your car works, and how to maintain the car so it performs reliably for you.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T02:04:19.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32119" CreationDate="2016-06-26T02:35:33.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the pre-LCI (06-08, I believe) e90 3 series, the rings are illuminated by a bulb which is below the headlights. The rings have a beveled edge at the bottom where light shines into and illuminates them. The bulbs on these are annoying to replace, requiring removal of the fender liner to reach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On yours, the post-LCI e90(or 1 or 2), they moved the bulb for the halos directly behind the flasher lens, and made the rings more of a &quot;fiber&quot; like you describe. It looks like the bulb should be easily accessed, especially compared to the previous version. See the diagram below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8FFl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8FFl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW Angel Eye Illumination System&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T02:35:33.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2016-06-26T05:00:54.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; be okay, given the assumptions posted by others, like perfect air mixing throughout the garage. But are you willing to bet your life--and that of anyone else who may walk in--on assumptions like that? Remember carbon monoxide has no odor, and exhaust from a well-tuned modern engine doesn't smell much either. Buy a CO detector, and then you'll have it for your home/apartment when you're done. One of my classmates lost his mother and nearly both parents to CO poisoning, and nobody knew anything was wrong. It can strike without warning. Don't just blow it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because your Check Engine is originally off doesn't mean it's safe. As the engine consumes the oxygen in the room, it becomes oxygen-starved and starts producing CO. Maybe your garage is sufficiently ventilated, but why take the chance? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, if you buy a used CO detector, check it in an enclosed space first, even just a candle burning under a pot. Consumer CO detectors have a finite lifetime and need to be replaced after 5-10 years, depending on model. Unscrupulous sellers can defeat the timer and resell an expired detector. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19338" LastEditorUserId="19338" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T05:06:25.203" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T05:06:25.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T08:35:23.160" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter has a w reg Honda civic 1.4. she says there is a rattle from the back when she changes gear &amp;amp; also when dropping engine speed. What could it be? It is Sunday so can't find mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19341" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T10:37:58.040" Title="Honda civic 1.4" Tags="|honda|civic|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32161" CreationDate="2016-06-26T09:39:50.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description doesn't say a lot, it might be anything. To me it seems like the rattle comes from the exhaust. It might be a sound of the engine (shooting vapors of fuel inside of an exhaust) and it is okay, but also it might be exhaust touching any other part of a car, like floor, rear axle, fuel tank etc. That might happen to older exhausts which might crack and change a shape. &#xA; Get to the back of the car, grab it, and give it a shake. If it is similar sound then you found the issue. If not, I'd like to hear it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T09:39:50.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32154" CreationDate="2016-06-26T09:53:16.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an old car. It seems like a battery issue to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the leads connected to a battery. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the battery. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a jumpstart. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, I'd say something is wrong with wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T22:46:03.503" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T22:46:03.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32169" CreationDate="2016-06-26T10:29:50.787" Score="1" ViewCount="4944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a 2011 Ford Mondeo 2.3L for about 18 months, and the fuel pump has failed for the third time. Each time the same story - the car drives fine, turn off the engine, leave the car, get back in the car, try to start and not a jot of fuel coming through - pump failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car will be towed off to Ford tomorrow, but I'm worried that just changing the pump will lead to the same thing happening again. The tank has been cleaned out (although nothing wrong found there), and it always has sufficient fuel levels, and I have only used 91 unleaded. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19342" LastEditorUserId="19342" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T12:56:00.177" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T16:27:33.557" Title="2011 Ford Mondeo 2.3L - petrol fuel pump keeps failing" Tags="|fuel-system|fuel-pump|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32124" CreationDate="2016-06-26T10:32:33.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is always worth to spend a little money on wheel balancing and tracking. It saves money on tires, fuel consumption, chassis components..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T10:32:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32164" CreationDate="2016-06-26T10:52:13.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see 2 reasons. &#xA; 1. Bent or damaged fuel line between a fuel pump and engine,&#xA; 2. Previous driver might increase a fuel pressure hoping that it will&#xA;    inject more fuel and make a car more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To kill an electric motor you need to overload it. If the tank is clean, there is only one way left how to overload it.&#xA; You can ask in garage to check a fuel pressure in fuel rail and straight after fuel pump (if they can). And see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T10:52:13.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T12:31:45.257" Score="3" ViewCount="5908" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main car that I was wondering for was a Nissan Altima 2.5l 4dr. 2007 with 138,000 Miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19343" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T16:29:21.883" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:51:20.507" Title="What sort of temperatures do exhaust manifolds on large engines reach after normal operation?" Tags="|engine|temperature|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2016-06-26T12:40:03.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention checking the ball joints (which are usually greasable) which are at the top and bottom of the knuckle or the U-joints on the axle shafts. Those are the most likely candidates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16464" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T12:40:03.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32164" CreationDate="2016-06-26T13:03:14.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Arturs answer about high fuel pressure but I suspect a different root cause for the high pressure. In your car there is a fuel pressure sending unit. This little box is attached to the fuel line and monitors fuel pressure. It send a message to another device that controls the fuel pump. This second device a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pulsed Width Modulation (PWM)&lt;/a&gt; to tell the fuel pump how fast to run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing those signals are bad leading to excessive pressures.  My guess would be that a faulty pressure sensor is screwing things up but it could also be the driver module or a problem in wiring between these units. Do note it's possible the FPDM function has been moved to be integral to your Powertrain Control Module (PCM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start the investigation by reading the output of the fuel pressure sender on a volt ohm meter and/or a review of the signal going into the fuel pump with an oscilloscope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do let us know what you find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T13:03:14.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32122" CreationDate="2016-06-26T13:18:44.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is running out of oil caused the crankshaft to spin in a dry environment and that generated friction and a whole lot of heat. The heat melted the built in rubber isolator within the harmonic balancer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no the crankshaft isn't warped. It will just have heavily scratched and scored bearing journal surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm getting the impression you are not telling us everything.  If you ran the engine for more than 45 seconds without oil I would think the entire engine needs a total rebuild. I wouldn't think that replacing just a harmonic balancer would get you up and running again. What's the goal here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T13:18:44.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T14:31:20.600" Score="1" ViewCount="5241" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I identify the GSXR 150 fuel knob location? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ON POSITION. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RESERVE POSITION&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OFF POSITION. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone give me an idea of the various positions based upon a clock face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19345" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T22:19:51.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T22:19:51.213" Title="Suzuki GSX 150 fuel knob position" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|suzuki|gsx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T16:48:29.960" Score="2" ViewCount="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Volvo S80 and there is a terrible odor coming from the vents but NOT when the A/C or heat is on. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19350" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T16:48:29.960" Title="Volvo S80 Ventilator odor" Tags="|volvo|s80|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-06-27T12:43:55.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2016-06-26T17:07:46.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all things.Safety is the primary concern. It would be advisable to do your vehicle cleaning outside in the fresh air. As in the article cited below (Wikipedia) Exposure to Carbon Monoxide is cumulative and could overwhelm you long before you are aware of it. By that time it may be too late. The volume of CO in the structure is of less concern than the level absorbed by the blood. While you are working on your car you are inhaling the gas and you are closer to the source of the gas. The other issue is the other occupants of the apartment complex. They are being exposed unnecessarily to your exhaust.  While it may be hot side you can compensate by keeping hydrated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Wikipedia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon monoxide poisoning is the most common type of fatal air poisoning in many countries. Carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless, and tasteless, but highly toxic. It combines with hemoglobin to produce carboxyhemoglobin, which usurps the space in hemoglobin that normally carries oxygen, but is ineffective for delivering oxygen to bodily tissues. Concentrations as low as 667 ppm may cause up to 50% of the body's hemoglobin to convert to carboxyhemoglobin. A level of 50% carboxyhemoglobin may result in seizure, coma, and fatality. In the United States, the OSHA limits long-term workplace exposure levels above 50 ppm. Within short time scales, carbon monoxide absorption is cumulative, since the half-life is about 5 hours in fresh air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may resemble other types of poisonings and infections, including symptoms such as headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, fatigue, and a feeling of weakness. Affected families often believe they are victims of food poisoning. Infants may be irritable and feed poorly. Neurological signs include confusion, disorientation, visual disturbance, syncope (fainting), and seizures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some descriptions of carbon monoxide poisoning include retinal hemorrhages, and an abnormal cherry-red blood hue. In most clinical diagnoses these signs are seldom noticed. One difficulty with the usefulness of this cherry-red effect is that it corrects, or masks, what would otherwise be an unhealthy appearance, since the chief effect of removing deoxygenated hemoglobin is to make an asphyxiated person appear more normal, or a dead person appear more lifelike, similar to the effect of red colorants in embalming fluid. The &quot;false&quot; or unphysiologic red-coloring effect in anoxic CO-poisoned tissue is related to the meat-coloring commercial use of carbon monoxide, discussed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon monoxide also binds to other molecules such as myoglobin and mitochondrial cytochrome oxidase. Exposures to carbon monoxide may cause significant damage to the heart and central nervous system, especially to the globus pallidus,often with long-term chronic pathological conditions. Carbon monoxide may have severe adverse effects on the fetus of a pregnant woman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T17:07:46.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33632" CreationDate="2016-06-26T17:10:30.620" Score="11" ViewCount="1840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a second-hand car, and when I got it home I tried to check the tyre pressures, with a simple mechanical pressure gauge &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/tyre-inflators-pressure-gauges/halfords-essentials-analogue-tread-depth-pressure-gauge&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;, which I've used for years on previous cars with no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was fine for 3 of the 4 tyres, but I couldn't get a reading for one of them - no matter how hard I pressed the gauge into the valve, or the angle I pressed it in at, it seemed to be unable to press the pin in. Looking closer and comparing it to one of the other tyres, it seemed that the pin was further inside the valve than the other tyre, or maybe the pin itself was shorter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common fault, and is it something I should worry about? It's annoying not to be able to read the pressure, but at the same time feels like a very petty complaint to have to go back to the dealer with. It's a Volkswagen main dealer, and we paid 'main dealer' price for it, so I don't feel too bad about being picky, but just want to check if it seems like a reasonable complaint, or if there's maybe something simple I should check first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19351" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T19:47:35.407" Title="Tyre Valve Pin Too Far In" Tags="|tires|valve|pressure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2016-06-26T20:41:36.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A different perspective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally when I clean the inside of a car, most or all of the doors end up being open, with me crawling in and out with the vacuum or whatever other cleaning equipment is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a situation, A/C is completely useless.  The heat that the A/C system does manage to pull out of the interior air is exhausted from under the hood, or elsewhere under the car.  This heat, in addition to the heat produced simply from idling the engine will increase the net heat energy locally around the car, and if the doors are open, the A/C will have little chance fighting against that.  This is basic thermodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plan to clean the car in the early morning before it gets too hot, so I get the benefit of natural light, but its not too hot to work yet&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If 1) is not possible, then I'd leave the engine off, get work lamp (I have one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/14003467?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;adid=22222222227001247075&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=40838691632&amp;amp;wl4=&amp;amp;wl5=pla&amp;amp;wl6=78652182872&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these super-cheap aluminium clamp lamps&lt;/a&gt;) and a nice long extension code, as necessary.  Presumably you'll need electrical power anyway if you're using a vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T20:41:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32172" CreationDate="2016-06-26T21:35:52.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Down&quot; should always be &quot;open&quot;, and you can find out where is &quot;close&quot; position. Probably right or left. So &quot;Up&quot; will be &quot;reserve&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:35:52.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32167" CreationDate="2016-06-26T21:51:20.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on many factors like operating revolutions, engine performance, manifold location (cooling), etc. If you are concerned about overheat - don't worry, hot manifold is okay. Some high performed engines can heat a manifold to yellow hot. Car engine could heat it to red hot. &#xA;If your concern is safety of other components of a car, you can wrap your manifold in a heatproof bands, or make a shield of 2 - 3 layers of a thin aluminium sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7kio.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b7kio.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dyno run at 8000 rpm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:51:20.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32197" CreationDate="2016-06-26T21:52:06.200" Score="2" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to change the settings on a factory-installed CD-radio unit that came with my 2004 &lt;em&gt;Honda Element&lt;/em&gt; to display the clock in 24-hour mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looked in the owners manual, but no mention there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10008" LastEditorUserId="10008" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T00:46:47.587" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T10:17:59.983" Title="Change clock to 24-hours mode on radio in Honda Element" Tags="|honda|audio|element|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11249" CreationDate="2016-06-26T21:59:34.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with all the recommendations given as certain makes of cars have rear calipers that tend to seize up when not used regularly and only on short journeys at low speeds. I.e. And depending on how quickly it is noticed you may not have to replace the bearings discs(rotors)and pads as we'll.my cars were Audi 100,Honda shuttle,Toyota Prius.At the end of the day what price do you put on safety ,but I do think the garages that know of this fault could recommend lubricating the slides and freeing the pads and pistons annually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19353" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:59:34.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32189" CreationDate="2016-06-27T00:11:23.890" Score="7" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015 Honda Mobilio with a manual transmission. I have had this car for 6 months and have not experienced any problems until yesterday morning. When I start my car, the engine shakes badly. The shaking was strong enough to surprise me and knock a few items off my dashboard. That was the first time I've started a car with that much shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just had my oil changed a couple of weeks ago with a semi-synthetic and it was doing fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave the car a couple of revs in neutral and turned it off, the car was shaking again on start but 50% lesser in intensity. I had the car on until it reached idle revs and turned it off. This time, starting it again was seamless and smooth. So I ignored it for that day, but this morning, the same thing happened again! Now I am worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think I should visit my car manufacturer's shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this related to the gas I am putting in it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually fill-up with 95ron fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this have something to do with the oil from the recent oil change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this have something to do with intense rain and humidity?  It's the rainy season where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T04:56:13.077" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T11:15:07.420" Title="2015 Honda Mobilio - Car shakes when started" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|fuel-system|rough-idle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2016-06-27T01:10:49.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a Toyota dealer, and I've seen some interesting methods of retaining floor mats, especially because of a policy that we move aftermarket mats to the trunk. &#xA;I've seen people screw mats into the floor (not recommended. You can hit wires)&#xA;One person used a wire hanger looped through the back of the mat, and tied it to the bottom of the seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:10:49.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6653" CreationDate="2016-06-27T01:16:48.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it only happens with the car moving and the brake depressed, your brake pads are probably worn to the metal. &#xA;If you hear it while holding the pedal down when the car is running, but not moving, it could be a vacuum leak.&#xA;If you still hear it with the car off, and the noise occurs with each press of the pedal, your hardware is likely corroded and/or worn and you're on your way to seized pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:16:48.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1011" CreationDate="2016-06-27T01:25:07.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open your glovebox and release the shock on the right side. While holding the door portion, push the middle of the back of the box away from you and pull the whole box down. There should be a 1&quot; X 6-8&quot; panel with tabs on both sides, the right, or top. Remove the panel and you can remove the filter. Be careful not to let leaves or debris fall below into the blower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:25:07.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2016-06-27T01:30:46.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be anything. The best diagnostic tool you can use when a light comes on is an OBD (II) scan tool. &#xA;It's a waste of time to look the car over at this point. You'll spend hours chasing ghosts without the scanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:30:46.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32184" CreationDate="2016-06-27T03:44:51.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess this sounds like a four cylinder engine, with one or even two cylinder's misfiring.  Best guess is a problem with either a spark plug wires, or an ignition module. I'm looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/indian-car-scene/1255706d1403972795-honda-mobilio-brio-based-mpv-coming-soon-edit-pre-launch-ad-p29-img_6832.jpg&quot;&gt;high resolution photos of your engine&lt;/a&gt; compartment and its not clear on what type of ignition system you have.  Generally there are two types of systems. One has a single ignition module, and then large diameter wires that lead to each individual spark plug.  Another design has small wires leading to small seperate ignition modules placed right over the spark plug.  My guess is you have the single ignition module with seperate wires, and one of those wires has an intermittent short to the the engine block.  When that shorts out, one cylinder isn't running correctly, and the engine will be very rough.  Unfortunately all of your ignition wiring is hidden on the back side of the engine, under the black plastic cover (between the engine and the dash panel sheet metal.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note, this issue could be something as easy as a spark plug wire not securely attached to a spark plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One easy test (if you can see all the wires) is to run the car in a dark parking lot at night (obviously in neutral, with parking brake securely fastened.)  With hood open just look for evidence of little blue sparks anywhere around those wires.  NOTE: Do not put your hands or any part of your body in the dark engine compartment.  There are a lot of moving parts and that's just dangerous.  (I caught my hand in an alternator fan at night Thwack, and it still hurts to think about it.) Please be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing about ignition faults.. they don't always set a code.  I've seen codes set in cars with coil on plug systems, but I've also seen vehicles with single ignition module, with visible shorts to the spark plug wiring that do not set a fault code at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: there is one other thing that can cause rough engine idle.  If there is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) or Vacuum controlled device that gets stuck open that could adversely affect engine idle.  Generally those defects will set an fault code.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were I in your shoes, I'd start with a test of all the engine fault codes.  Then I'd inspect the ignition wiring for signs of decay (or shorting out.)  Often you can see carbon marks where the wires short out on metal parts. (That inspection is done engine OFF-  Safety first!)  Let us know what you find.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One comment: With a car that new, isn't your manufacturer's warranty still in effect?  With your description, this issue should definitely be covered under warranty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: You've mentioned this issue is only observed when the car is first started in the morning.  If it was forty years ago, I'd be looking hard at the automatic choke on the carburetor but not with a new car like yours. You've got fuel injection and control mechanisms to monitor engine temperature and adjust air fuel mixture.  It's possible a temp sensor is bad, but that will definitely set a code.  I doubt it, but it's possible.  Again, first step here is to read the stored fault codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T05:17:46.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T05:17:46.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32192" CreationDate="2016-06-27T05:58:13.773" Score="4" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dented my car door while trying to turn into a tight spot. When I took the car for service they told me that the door will have to be replaced and is gonna cost big bucks. However there is no damage to the automatic window, central locking or no problem in opening and closing the door. Should I get the door replaced or just take it to a denting and painting shop to get it repaired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19359" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T20:36:37.333" Title="Car door dented" Tags="|suzuki|door|dent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32191" CreationDate="2016-06-27T07:27:01.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody will have a different answer to this question, depending on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the money-value of the vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sentimental-value of the vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much longer are you planning to keep it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the time comes to get rid of it, are you planning to sell it or&#xA;write it off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much damage is there on the door&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;new door&lt;/strong&gt; Probably in the $750-$1500 range just for the door, plus labour to install it and paint it. If you are planning to sell the vehicle, this is probably the option you would pick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;door from the junkyard&lt;/strong&gt; If the damage is extensive enough (if something is bent), this would be my pick. The labour cost will be the same, but the cost of the actual door will be in the $50-$300 range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;repair the existing door&lt;/strong&gt; You are saying the door operates properly, so I am guessing the damage is mostly cosmetic. The paint is probably scraped and the panel may be slightly bent inward. If you shop around, you may find a shop willing to do the absolute minimum to fix it (push the panel back out to it's original shape and paint the damaged section). My prefered option if the damage is mostly cosmetic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;leave it alone&lt;/strong&gt; Don't fix it. If the paint isn't scratched all the way to the actual metal, it may not rust. Sure, it's probably unsightly, but it's a $0 cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T07:27:01.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T07:48:46.293" Score="4" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has in a Toyota 4e engine which uses a Corolla 3 speed transmission. The transmission is faulty so I would like to change it to a 4 speed Toyota Starlet transmission. The Starlet uses the same engine. The engines are mounted in two  different places. How would I get the original 3-speed mounts to work on the 4-speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19361" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:25:00.803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:25:00.803" Title="Transmission Swap – how to modify mounts?" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|corolla|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32195" CreationDate="2016-06-27T08:07:34.227" Score="10" ViewCount="29783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have often seen motorcycles like the BMW S100RR and the famous Ducati Panigale with Quick Shifter technology which allows seamless gear changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how these things work mechanically and are there any advantages or disadvantages of the tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T17:04:37.313" Title="How Does a Quick Shifter work in a motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|automatic-transmission|ducati|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32194" CreationDate="2016-06-27T08:53:29.497" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Why the Quick-Shifter?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these are called quick-shifters we'll dub slow-shifting the traditional way of shifting gear. When you slow-shift you usually close the throttle, disengage the clutch, act on the gear shifting pedal, engage the clutch and reopen the throttle. Now, this is a time-consuming process (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rideapart.com/articles/how-do-motorcycle-quick-shifters-work&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few hundreds of milliseconds&lt;/a&gt;) which might be undesirable in a racing environment where every fraction of a second counts. Enters: the quick-shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How Does it Work?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of quick-shifters out there and not all use the same methods although they all aim at achieving a common goal: reduce load on the drive-train to safely engage a higher gear without damaging the gearbox. The way this is done is usually by momentarily cutting fuel and/or ignition for &lt;a href=&quot;https://rideapart.com/articles/how-do-motorcycle-quick-shifters-work&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few tens of milliseconds&lt;/a&gt; during which the gear is engaged. All of this happens without the need to close the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to give you an idea of how fast a quick-shifter can operate, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Woy1DnsreAs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this video of a quick-shifting ZX10&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick-shifter is usually a sensor reading the position of the shifter, informing a microcontroller of when up-shifting takes place in order for the controller to cut the fuel/ignition. It looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRMmX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRMmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quick-shifter on a ZX10&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kawiforums.com/2005-2006-zx-6r/130128-dynojet-quick-shifter-mps-quick-shifter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kawi Forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick-shifter circuit typically looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNGDC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNGDC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SP quickshifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://i44.tinypic.com/21eu4g5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;R6ers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you have one cable for each sparkplug which suggests that this unit cuts the ignition when quick-shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is Quick-Shifting Harmful for the Gearbox?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general consensus on the internet seems to be that quick-shifting can be less harmful for the gearbox than slow-shifting since the engine power is guaranteed to be lowered when the fuel/ignition are cut. Whereas an unskilled driver manually operating the clutch is more likely to make the mistake of leaving the throttle open during up-shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13657" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T13:26:48.377" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:26:48.377" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32181" CreationDate="2016-06-27T10:17:59.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-fit-73/24-hour-clock-how-1614086/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; seems to suggest that no Honda supports this function and that their inbuilt clocks only provide AM/PM display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T10:17:59.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4068" CreationDate="2016-06-27T10:25:36.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most elegant / factory looking solution would be to obtain some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kamsnaps.com/Product-FAQs-13.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kam Snaps&lt;/a&gt; and order the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kamsnaps.com/size-20-short-long-c80/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;long&quot;&lt;/a&gt; variant which can be installed in fairly thick material.  Install one gender of snap in the rear corers of your mat and install the other gender to the rear of your carpet in your footwells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you order an appropriate colour (probably B5 - Black or B4 - Dark Gray) they will look professional and I can personally vouch for their robustness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T10:25:36.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32201" CreationDate="2016-06-27T10:49:57.560" Score="7" ViewCount="18423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that my 1999 &lt;em&gt;Volvo V40 T4&lt;/em&gt; has a leaky exhaust manifold gasket. In winter there used to be some odd faint whistling while the engine was cold and now I'm trying to find the reason of a ticking sound that is audible when revving the car (frequency follows revs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be heard anywhere outside the car, even inside when the door is open (the middle muffler box is removed, might be the reason the sound is more apparent). It's more difficult to distinguish when listening under the hood because of the noise, but it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more inclined to think the ticking is caused by a hydraulic lifter failure, but I'd much rather go with the exhaust manifold gasket first hoping that it would fix it. However it's also a PITA job and I'd like to make sure that it &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; replacing first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do I make sure my exhaust manifold gasket is leaking before doing a potentially pointless job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T17:48:23.607" Title="How to test for a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket?" Tags="|leak|gasket|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32194" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:02:05.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first answer is good and rather complete, and I would have added this as a comment if I had the reputation...&#xA;It might help to understand how a motorcycle gearbox differs from the traditional design that you will see in most explanations. The gears in a motorcycle gearbox do not slide on the shafts to engage and disengage gears, the gears are constantly engaged with each other but at least one of each pair is free to rotate on its shaft. The gearchange mechanism moves dog-clutches around to alter which gears are locked to the input and output shafts. The dog clutches slide on splines on the shafts. The sequence in which the dog clutches slide is controlled by a cam drum connected to the shift lever. &#xA;This means that it is possible to do very fast gearchanges on a motorcycle without using the clutch. All you need to do is unload the gearbox so that the dog-clutches are free to slide on their splines while moving the gear change lever. Because of the sequential cam mechanism only a very small and fast movement of the lever is needed. &#xA;Many motorcyclists (myself included) hardly ever use the clutch for up-changes. You just need to apply a gentle pressure to the lever, momentarily close the throttle, and the gearbox shifts smoothly and very quickly into the next gear. &#xA;Down-changes are more difficult to do smoothly, as you are typically loading the gearbox backwards and braking at the same time. You need to press on the lever and momentarily open the throttle. This needs a certain dexterity to operate the throttle and brake at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all that a quick-shifter does is measure the force on the shift lever and turn off the spark plugs when the lever is operated. This only works on up-changes, but cutting the spark rather than closing the throttle means that there is less disturbance to the air-path and the power comes back faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I you are worried that clutchless changes are bad, then you might be reassured to know that my 2004 Yamaha R1 has done 105,000 miles (with very little motorway use) with me shifting that way, and is still on the original gearbox and clutch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting development in MotoGP is seamless gearboxes. These allow gear-shifts under full power. There isn't much information about how they work, but I suspect that they use one-way clutches between the shaft and the gears. This is conceptually very much like the way that the traditional 3-speed bicycle hub works: When you engage a higher gear the lower gears simply-over run their clutch. (in some gears with those hubs you can hear the non-driving ratchets ticking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19364" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:02:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32199" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:39:06.103" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how your car has a turbo, the only place it would be leaking and you'd hear a ticking noise is pre-turbo, so the exhaust manifold at the head (header) and the down pipe on the hot side to the turbo. The turbo, due to it's nature of homogenizing the exhaust flow, will pretty much eliminate &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; ticking noise which may be due to an exhaust leak. While you may have a leak downstream of the turbo, you'll not get a ticking noise from it. This eliminates a lot of &quot;stuff&quot; to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next place you need to look at is where the header meets the head. This is a usual suspect area on most cars with an exhaust leak. You are looking for black soot traces. This is your tell tale sign. On your car and most cars with turbos, this is going to be hard to see because of all the supporting &quot;stuff&quot; which is there. Plus, IIRC, the exhaust is on the back side of the engine next to the firewall, which makes it even harder to see. If you don't see any, it doesn't mean you don't have an exhaust leak though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing you need to do is check your trim levels. If you have an exhaust leak, you're vehicle will most likely be getting worse gas mileage. This is because if there is a leak, fresh air will be getting into the system fouling up the fuel trims. This seems counter-intuitive, but it is actual. Even though there is pressure where the leak is at, as the exhaust flows by, it will draw air in with it (there's a physics term for this, but I'm not remembering it right now - it works like a venturi in a carburetor). This messes with your O2 sensors, which makes the computer dump more fuel in to the system. You'll also be seeing more soot around the inside of the tail pipe due to richness of the burn. This isn't good for your cat, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't seeing any of these things, you can pretty much eliminate the exhaust as your problem. If you grab a piece of rubber hose about 3' long, you can use that as a diagnostic aid to help you pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Put one end of it up to your ear and wave the other end around in the engine compartment. This will help localize where the noise is coming from. There are also automotive stethoscopes which are very cheap at places like Harbor Freight. They can help as well, but I've found noise is usually transmitted throughout the metal of the engine, so it can help pinpoint sometimes, but other times it's not as apparent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:39:06.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32199" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:39:06.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say hyd lifter failure is pretty unlikely unless you ran your engine to extremely high RPM's right before this started. A leaking exhaust manifold can produce a sharp and short puff of exhaust that sounds like a tick. (Happened on my '92 Mustang often) If you can reach your manifold bolts, trying tightening them a little. They will definitely have actual torque specifications, but for testing purposes hand tightening them should have a noticeable affect on the &quot;ticking&quot;. Also... Do this with the engine off and after it has cooled. If you needed me to say that last par consider take it to a mechanic lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JMR-(Auto Hobbyist/ Diesel Mech. 8 years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19365" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:39:06.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15337" CreationDate="2016-06-27T11:49:59.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going with a leaking exhaust manifold for the ticking. Try tightening the manifold bolts a little. They will have a torque specification but hand tight will have a noticeable affect on the ticking if the manifold is your problem. Go back later and torque them properly. As far as the car running at 2000 RPM on start up, that is normal for most modern cars. My 2011 Nissan starts at about 1500 and slowly ends at 900. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-JMR(Auto Hobbyist / Diesel Mech. 8 Years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19365" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T11:49:59.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9364" CreationDate="2016-06-27T12:07:28.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think all the major points have been made, but there's one more to consider. Your engine probably idles between 750-900 RPM, running your engine below this under-drives your alternator, water pump, and most importantly your oil pump. Frequently letting your engine run under this starves it of lubrication. Over time this will reduce your engine's life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-JMR(Diesel Generator Mech. 8 years.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19365" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T12:07:28.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T15:18:31.663" Score="1" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Chevy Cobalt. I drove the car shut the engine off, when I went to restart the car it did nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my dash lights worked and my radio would play, but the car wouldn't turn over. Since then I've had the battery checked it came back good. Tried to cross the starter with a screwdriver nothing happened no spark nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the starter with a new one, car still does the same. Tried to cross the new starter with a screwdriver got nothing no spark nothing. So I replaced the cable that runs from the fuse box to the starter. Tried crossing again still nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause my car to not get any power to the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19370" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T18:02:07.813" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T18:02:07.813" Title="2010 Chevy Cobalt will not turn over" Tags="|electrical|starting|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32205" CreationDate="2016-06-27T15:27:14.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please stop testing your starter with a screwdriver! You could get hurt. A simple volt-meter or multi-meter is a good investment for a home mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your starter cable fused? Check the fuse with your new multi-meter and then you can check the voltage back to the battery negative post. It's possible the earth strap has come off your engine and there's no route back to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not a lot that usually stops power getting to the starter, immobiliser systems usually stop the sparks and fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T15:27:14.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32243" CreationDate="2016-06-27T16:17:47.253" Score="1" ViewCount="6263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand this is not a website to ask for specific products. I have spent nearly 3 hours on the web trying to find a scanner that will be able to read and erase codes from my Volvo V50 2005 Europe 2.0 D. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I found one, bought it but it doesn't work. I contacted several other scan tools makers and they explicitly told me theirs wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I have bad luck? Or is it really difficult to find a scan tool to work with my Volvo? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19373" LastEditorUserId="10790" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T20:35:08.280" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T10:07:40.180" Title="Are there any OBD scan tools compatible with a Volvo V50 2005 Europe" Tags="|obd-ii|volvo|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27543" CreationDate="2016-06-27T17:12:40.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually got this problem fixed. For an unrelated issue, both the throttle position sensor and air flow meter were replaced on the car. When the same idle sticking issue persisted after that, we figured it was probably indeed a mechanical issue with the throttle cable or butterfly throttle valve sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier I had used seafoam to clean out the throttle body. I cleaned it again using some throttle body cleaner. I didn't remove the throttle body from the car, but I spent roughly 20 minutes cleaning it. I also removed the plastic cover for where the throttle cable connects to the cruise control actuator and cleaned the springs and all rotating parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning it with throttle body cleaner -- I went back over the throttle body return spring, butterfly valve and connectors to the cruise control actuator with liquid wrench spray oil. I brushed it into the crevices to ensure it was getting deep down into the rotating parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started the car up and voila, issue fixed. When you put in the clutch, the RPMs drop right back down to ~500RPM whereas before they would slowly drop or get stuck anywhere between ~1500RPM and ~2500RPM. It's been about a week now and the issue has not returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15940" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T17:12:40.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T17:29:48.457" Score="7" ViewCount="7734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single cylinder, 200cc, carbureted, 5 speed, 12V, 2006 Lifan LF 200 motorcycle that typically runs fine. It will sometimes randomly lose power and I cannot get it to go above 25 mph. When this happens, my bike appears to lose all torque above 4000 rpm and I cannot get the engine to spin any faster in any gear unless I am going down hill or down shifting. When this happens, even in first gear, I can feel my bike weakly accelerating then once I hit 4000 rpm it loses all power. When I open the throttle and it is maxed out at 4000 rpm, the bike shakes as if it regains power for a split second and then loses it again. It feels like it is trying to pull away. This happens randomly both on cold starts and in the middle of a ride. After 5-20 minutes of being bogged down, it will suddenly regain power and pull away (I will hold the throttle open for 10 minutes and suddenly the revs go up again and I have full power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I disengage the clutch, I can fully rev the engine, therefore I don't think it is a problem with fuel delivery. My fuel tank cannot have negative pressure so that cannot be the problem. I checked my brakes and they are not engaging by themselves so that is not the cause. If it were a slipping clutch I should still be able to rev higher, just not transmit the power. I replaced my spark plug. I cleaned the air filter but I may try just removing it and see how it runs. I checked my oil and it is fine (I am considering loose shavings or something jamming the transmission as a possible cause though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I haven't been able to find any answers online and I asked two mechanics and they could not give me an answer (although they did not do any in-depth checks on the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19374" LastEditorUserId="19374" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T20:39:58.183" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T07:11:11.977" Title="Motorcycle randomly loses power" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|repair|power|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T18:08:36.083" Score="4" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1997 Infiniti J30 is sometimes very slow to get any power when I start going from a full stop.  I can put the pedal to the floor, and it  will slowly creep forward for 3-5 seconds, then suddenly gets enough power and picks up speed.  It only does this sometimes.  On some days, it will have perfectly fine acceleration.  Other times, it will be slow like this right off the bat.  In some cases, it will work fine for part of the day, then start being slow after a couple hours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Previously, it's engine timing was way off, and it had a bad o2 sensor.  I replaced the sensor and had the engine timing fixed (w/new belt and water pump as well).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be spark plug related but I can't figure out why it would be bad for hours on end or good for hours on end at different times.  I would think a spark plug problem would be consistently bad or good.&#xA;My theory is that the ECU is still used to trying to work with the bad timing, and needs to be reset to relearn the right air/fuel ratios.  (I don't know why it wouldn't be bad all the time though, so maybe it's something more than this)  I can't find specific directions for how to fully reset the ECM for this make and model anywhere, including a service manual I found online.  I have tried the method where you turn the diagnostic mode screw on the ECM, and the method where you  take the cables off the battery and hook them to each other to drain the voltage in the system, and a couple other &quot;This always works for all cars&quot; methods found online.  The problem doesn't go away.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank you in advance for any ideas or suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T21:53:44.543" Title="1997 Infiniti J30 is sometimes very slow to get power after a full stop, otherwise fine" Tags="|acceleration|timing|infiniti|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32226" CreationDate="2016-06-27T18:18:45.367" Score="6" ViewCount="9891" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila has recently had a catastrophic electrical problem, and my electric mirrors do not work anymore. The recovery guy pulled out and replaced a few fuses, and I drove home all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, now my electric mirrors do not work, and now there is a missing fuse slot. There is no connecter in there at all, and there should be a fuse there. I have checked on the wiring diagrams of my service information and in my manual, and there should be a 15A fuse in this slot, circled in the picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FlAd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FlAd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fuse also powers the radio, as well as the standard electric mirrors. &lt;strong&gt;The radio will not work without this fuse&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However now there is nothing in this slot in my car. I don't know what to do as I can't change the fuse box or anything as it is hardwired to the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put the fuse in and it falls out again as there it is just an empty hole. There is nothing at all there.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How can I find my missing fusebox connector?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T22:54:09.067" Title="A fuse slot has disappeared" Tags="|electrical|fuse|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32199" CreationDate="2016-06-27T19:18:38.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try the standard leak test: Mix some water with dishwashing soap in 1:1 mix and apply it to any surface that could harbor a leak. Bubbles appear at the site of the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T19:18:38.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31881" CreationDate="2016-06-27T19:43:08.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the problem. I purchased breakdown cover and called the AA out on Sunday afternoon. They were very fast and the guy was incredibly helpful. He said that a fuse had blown, and checked the fuses. He then found a blown fuse and replaced it for another one, but as soon as it touched it instantly blew again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So he looked up on his computer to see which circuits run off of that fuse, and it was the clock, radio and instruments. He disconnected the battery for 5 mins and then put another fuse in, and the instruments reset and the car started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove about 100m down the road and the exact same thing happened. The AA guy checked his computer, and the radio and clock ran off of this, so he removed the radio wiring adaptor and the clock as well, and the car started and ran. I have had no more problems with it, and I have reinstalled things one by one to see what the problem was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clock is fine, but the radio/stereo is completely dead. I plugged it in and had sparks flying everywhere, so I am going to replace the radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to anyone suffering this problem is to check all of their fuses first before doing anything, as this could be a simple fix for a massive failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T19:43:08.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T19:57:24.507" Score="3" ViewCount="157471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving when I began smelling a burning, possibly rubber, smell and when I pulled over there was smoke coming from my passenger side rear tire well. Nothing appears to be wrong with the tire or anything out of place, but I did just pick it up from a lot where it was towed. Any suggestions on what could be going on? Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19381" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T17:29:25.127" Title="Burning smell and smoke from rear tire" Tags="|tires|smell|smoke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32209" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:23:26.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are a few things for you to look for&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First - A low battery can initiate misfires as your ignition system will require 12.6 volts or under load the spark will not have the required electrical power to jump the gap of the sparkplugs under high-load/resistance situations.  Your battery could be getting a lift while charging at certain RPM's which is why the symptoms will go away after a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second - Test your charging system.  You may not be charging well.  I have seen stators that will only charge at a certain RPM.  It's very odd but you may this issue or a bad leg on your rectifier allowing a bit of AC into your system OR only charging at a higher RPM off the two remain legs/phases of your charging system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Third - It's not your transmission.  If you had aluminium debris in your crankcase the transmission would grind it up nicely, put it in your oil, where it would get filtered out with your oil filter.  Two things, change and disembowel your oil filter, check it for debris.  Drain your oil and filter it to see if you have debris.  Either way, positive or negative, a bad transmission would not reflect the symptoms you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fourth - More than likely not your carbs unless you have an automatic choke.  Your choke could be staying on and making your AFR too rich.  Check to ensure your manual choke is getting all the way turned off.  Take off your gas tank and operate the choke cable, if you have one.  Validate that there are not wires or other cables interfering with the full closure of your choke.  If it's an automatic choke, again, check to ensure it's closing all the way when the vehicle heats up.  Be sure to rev it a tiny bit to make sure the automatic portion of the choke slips to a leaner setting.  You will see what I am talking about when you inspect this portion of your carbs.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fifth - Fuel tank, after riding and the tank is hot on low fuel so gasses can really build up in it and it can get hot from the engine running, open the gas tank.  Do you here a sucking or positive pressure release sound?  If you do, that could be the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sixth - Be patient with the troubleshooting.  Do the work when you are not under pressure to have it running again the next day for a work commute.  Start on Friday night if you have the weekend off.  You have the whole weekend to get it right then.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helpful Hints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/25023/9164&quot;&gt;Test your stator and rectifier&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24075/9164&quot;&gt;Test your battery under load&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T20:42:46.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32191" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:36:37.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not compulsory to repair the door as long as there are no sharp edges which may cause injury to a pedestrian. The main reason most people want to repair or replace the door is for cosmetic appearance.The side door on my business van has been damaged for the last 4 yrs but still passes the mot.as it still works and the expense is not worth the difference it makes to the resale price or the extra insurance premiums charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19382" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T20:36:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:43:26.290" Score="4" ViewCount="7569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the pads rotors and calipers on the rear of my truck along with a new master cylinder and cannot get what seems to be the air out of the lines. The brakes will appear to work until I start the truck then nothing I can push them to the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is my brake pedal loose once I turn the engine on? Is this air in the circuit? How do I bleed it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19383" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T10:13:43.007" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T19:49:14.087" Title="2004 chevy silverado 1500 brake pedal is loose after turning the engine on" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|silverado|bleeding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32209" CreationDate="2016-06-27T20:49:14.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the float chamber and inlet filter on the carb fuel inlet, and have a look at the manifold to carb connection for an air leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19382" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T20:49:14.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32207" CreationDate="2016-06-27T21:04:14.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the 05 uses CAN protocal, not OBD2, and then there are some issues with using a generic tool, and most accepted, if not only official method, is to use a volvo-specific (proprietary) scan tool to read the codes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look over the link below and it appears that there has been some headway made in adapting a 'generic' scan tool to work, but it may be too technically involved for many to implement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php#/forumsite/21298/topics/61070?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php#/forumsite/21298/topics/61070?page=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T21:04:14.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T21:15:09.780" Score="0" ViewCount="2306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanic wants $2000 for replacement -- do repair kits work?  Anyone have experiences good or bad with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19385" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T08:52:57.893" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T05:47:59.183" Title="Leaking gas tank due to road damage. Is repair in-place an option?" Tags="|repair|leak|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-07-08T00:28:14.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32223" CreationDate="2016-06-27T21:49:11.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, yes it is an option. Whether or not it's a good one is another discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good News: finding a replacement gas tank and having a competent mechanic replace it shouldn't cost anywhere near $2000. Especially if you find the gas tank yourself. I'd be curious to know how your mechanic intends to fix your gas tank and add up his services to a total of $2000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad news: in-place gas tank repairs are very hit or miss. You can find putty-like products that claim complete and permanent repair of gas tank holes, but these don't always work as advertised. I've known people that have tried all sorts of &quot;tricks&quot; to try and patch a damaged gas tank, the putty products and jb-weld type products included. Some have even tried simply welding the gas tank (this is a terrible idea if you haven't emptied the tank and you're not very careful or very good at welding, hello explosion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum things up, I never mess around with gas tank problems. It makes me feel better to know that I have completely resolved the problem by just replacing the tank. It's too risky to assume that a quick-fix will hold through thick and thin and be able to perform whenever you need it to. Just my 2 cents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T21:49:11.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32219" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:49:56.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars allow the air bubble to run out naturally, but it is rare, so you'll need an assistant.&#xA; Basically you need to apply a pressure on a brake pedal, better if you press it a few times so it becomes harder. Then you need to hold a pedal down and undo the nipple using a 7 or 8 mm spanner. Usually 1/2 of a turn is enough. The nipple is located at the top of the brake caliper (it might be located on the side, but the bore should be always at the highest point of a brake cylinder). So you let the brake fluid out, catching it and avoiding a pollution damage, better to use a clear hose pipe, put it on the nipple and other end in the bottle :) Along with a brake fluid it will push some air out, and pedal will touch the floor. Then close the nipple and &lt;strong&gt;AFTER THAT&lt;/strong&gt; release the pedal. Do it again a few times and try another wheel. &#xA; &lt;strong&gt;REMEMBER TO CHECK AND TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID TANK FREQUENTLY&lt;/strong&gt;, or you'll have to do it again.&#xA; The reason why on running engine it is soft and not working is because the car is designed to make your brake pedal be softer and easier to control by using a vacuum from the engine, whether it is taken from a inlet manifold or special vacuum pump. &#xA; Your brake lines will be air-free only when you can 'lock' the wheels on a running car without 'touching a floor'. Working ABS will be counted as a locked wheels :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T22:49:56.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32212" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:54:09.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So beneath that fuse is a wiring terminal. It's obvious that your terminal got pushed in so far that the fuse spades no longer touch anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that everything is in there.  The bad news is you will have to dissemble everything and reseat the wiring terminals on the inner surface of that fuse box cover. That could be very ugly depending on where the fuse box is mounted. I'm guessing that assembly is all snapped together. Once you understand how engineers design snap together plastic parts you can begin a dissemble process. If you go in heavy handed you are just going to break stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This repair will require a whole lot of patience.  Or just a replacement fuse box?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note. I'd be curious to see what the dealer quotes for this repair. Not sure about anyone else but I despise working underneath the instrument panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T22:54:09.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32216" CreationDate="2016-06-27T22:56:27.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rubber burns, you wouldn't say 'possibly'. I'm sure you'd recognize a smell of a rubber, so I have to guess it is brake shoe/pad, most likely hand brake cable or shoe or slave cylinder issue, depends on a car model..&#xA; Unless you have 1000 hp engine.. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T22:56:27.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32209" CreationDate="2016-06-27T23:31:31.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it starts lovely and doesn't stop, then it'll be too rich air/fuel mix, which means choke or air filter issue. If it is difficult to start, it overheats, or just stops for no reason, it'll be a dirty carb (main jet) or an air leak between a carb and head. Check any rubber cracks, gaskets, any 'oily' areas..&#xA; If not, I'd change a spark plug lead. But it would be the last thing I'd do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T23:31:31.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32194" CreationDate="2016-06-27T23:43:23.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the racing car  - Upshift cuts the ignition, Downshift blips the throttle.&#xA;Details: instead of gear stick they have paddle shift. It is a actuator attached to a gear selector and being pushed or pulled by compressed air or solenoid. Compressed air comes from a little compressor mounted on a car. &#xA; When you switch gears up you send a signal to ECU which is programmed to open a solenoid valve and fill the actuator with a compressed air and push a gear selector. At the same time it cuts the ignition so the gears becomes loose for a time of eye blink.&#xA; When you switch gears down, ECU opens another solenoid valve to fill the actuator from the other side to push it other way and also opens third valve to blip a thottle. It is another small actuator fitted on a throttle cable, which might be run by compressed air or a powerful solenoid.&#xA; Also gear position sensor tells the ECU which gear it is going to be so it doesn't blip or cut when you try to find a neutral..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actuator - the picture shows pneumatic (air) actuator, but it also can be a powerful solenoid.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07UVa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07UVa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Actuator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my Dyno run for a 1585cc modified GSXR engine without a paddleshift (quickshift) because the engine gear position sensor plug is not acceptable for my dyno so it won't cut the ignition or blip the throttle, so for gear safety I had to switch and blip by hand... As it seems it won't disengage gears on so big engine without a clutch or proper ignition cut timing..&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0HGNxN8ULw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suzuki 1585cc dyno run video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T08:35:08.003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T08:35:08.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32223" CreationDate="2016-06-27T23:50:03.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't repair a gas tank. If the repair fails, it's going to be leaking gas, and I don't want to be sitting too near the tank when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$2,000 sounds very expensive to supply and install a gas tank. Get several quotes from other mechanics, including a local dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T23:50:03.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32219" CreationDate="2016-06-28T01:15:01.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If bleeding the brakes as normal isn't working you need a scantool with bi directional controls. And do an automated bleed or have the ABS module pulse the bypass modulator valve. This is required on Chevy trucks when replacing the ABS, the master cylinder or when the master cylinder goes empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T01:15:01.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12688" CreationDate="2016-06-28T01:47:26.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a conflict with manufacturers recommending oils in that some car mfgrs&#xA;are required by govt to meet certain mileage averages and they know that thinner oils provide less friction and slightly greater mileage.  They also know that thinner oils wear out metals faster and your car will wear out faster&#xA;with the thinner oils.   The car mfgs only care that their car makes it past&#xA;the warranty period  100,000 miles or 2 years etc. then they are free and&#xA;clear of obligation.  If you use thicker oils you will more likely attain&#xA;250K or 300K miles on your car long after the warranty expires but you maybe&#xA;got a half a mile a gallon worse mileage.   So to repeat,  you cannot trust&#xA;the manufacturer of a car to tell you what is best oil weight for your engine.  Their definition of best is different than your definition of best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the slightly thicker viscosity oils have a much better chance of reaching extended mileage amounts before oil changes are required because&#xA;as the oils wear out and lose viscoscity and shear protection it reaches&#xA;the point of metal to metal contact and engine wear occurs rapidly.  A thicker oil starting out if it has the same formulation and breaks down&#xA;at the same rate will last longer in your engine.&#xA;Case in point,  I put mobil 1  15w50 in a 2005 Toyota and achieve 18,000&#xA;mile oil change intervals.  By that time it needs to be changed but I would&#xA;not even try it with a lighter grade oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19388" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T01:47:26.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32237" CreationDate="2016-06-28T05:09:51.280" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to design a theoretical internal combustion (IC) engine. The ultimate goal is to achieve 3000 hp with this engine, for which I know I will need low bore x stroke ratio, high compression, direct injection, and 4 valves/cylinder. I am getting confused in my calculations, as the different dimensions are interrelated. How can I determine the optimal bore and stroke for this theoretical engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19391" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T12:50:22.650" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:55:31.373" Title="Designing IC engine" Tags="|engine|power|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-28T10:14:49.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32256" CreationDate="2016-06-28T06:30:54.733" Score="4" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a wirebrush (on a dremel head for example), which is more abbrasive and what are the advantages of stainless and normal steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17286" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T19:04:10.567" Title="what is the difference in terms of effective use comparing stainless or normal steel wire brush/rotary tool?" Tags="|steel|wire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32234" CreationDate="2016-06-28T07:03:16.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like your first posting with Motor Vehicle maintenance and repair site.  It looks like you are an engineering student, looking at a possible school project.  Is that right? Welcome to the stackexchange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a whole lot of decisions to make.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First Choice: Type of engine?  I'm going to assume you want an internal combustion engine.  Choices here are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gasoline Two Cycle Internal Combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gasoline Four Cycle Internal Combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel Reciprocating engine Internal Combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wankel Internal Combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jet Turbine Internal Combustion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External Combustion Sterling Engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other designs out there, but these are the most common.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to determine your power requirements.  You've stated you wanted 3000 HP.  Awesome.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next comes materials.  What foundry do you have available?  What materials are you thinking about? Do you have good feel for heat treat requirements? Do you have machine shops ready to go to advise you whats acceptable for their processes?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next step is to try to size the engine (for displacement style engines.) How much displacement total do you need?  What pressures are we talking?  (what are your safety &amp;amp; durability goals?)  Use the appropriate thermodynamic tables for your choice of engine style to figure out what's possible for your designated fuel type.  Obviously you will use the Otto Cycle for gasoline engine.  Obviously this is where you need to proveout intake pressure stuff. Are you going to add boost?  How are you planning on doing that? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you figure out displacement (total) then you can figure out number of cylinders, size of pistons and crankshaft throw.  I will say there is a lot of published stuff out there that talks about this step a bit, particularly with regards to RPM range and torque. You didn't mention your targets for those.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At some point in time you should probably evaluate not only the number of cylinders, but also how they are arranged. How big a deal is vibration to you?  Are you going inline block, V block, Horizontal opposing or perhaps an alternative design?  Are you going to be adding a counterbalance shaft?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And here is a hard one.. How are you going to control the intake and exhaust on your engine? two valves per cylinder? Three? Four or more?  Perhaps you have an alternative design in mind.  Again, awesome.  How are you going to control the opening and closing of each valve?  How are you going to transmit the energy to do that?  Are you going with valve springs or a desmodromic valve design.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should also take a moment to ensure you've accommodate your design for heat loss too.  Radiator control? coolant?  Thermostat? Coolant pump? The sky is the limit.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Onward to lubrication.  Don't forget you've got to provide lubrication to all the moving parts within your engine.  I'm assuming you are going to be cross drilling and welding up the access holes in your crankshaft.  That's tough on heat treat design, but that's what makes engineering so interesting, no? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now is a good time to figure out exactly the details on mixing fuel and air.  Are you going carburator?  Hi pressure injectors?  Mechanical or electric fuel pump?  control system? Calibration?  What sensors will you need for your integrated system. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oooh, I almost forgot.  What specifications are you meeting for emissions?  current legal requirements?  How are you going to control that stuff?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;About this time you should probably be placing all of your designs in a 3D CAD system.  A system that integrates well for finite element analysis will save you time.   Its at this point you can begin to determine material requirements, including all heat treat. The goal is to create a model good enough to perform a cost analysis on your 3000 hp motor.  You didn't say.. what is your budget for this thing?  Are you just making one, or a whole bunch of these.  If you can make the thing fit into a package say 20&quot; x 20&quot; x 30&quot; I'm guessing you'll have a great market for sales.  Again, Awesome.  Oh.. and don't forget we're all going to need complete dimensional analysis to know how tight the tolerances are on ALL the parts in the system.  Can't quote the job without that. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actually as I look at this list, the displacement and # of cylinders necessary seems kind of a minor decision.  Is that really where you want to start the journey?  I guess that's okay, its your project.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how this turns out.  I will say, it does seem like a whole lot to tackle at once.  Good luck with it.  And if you want help, I'm offering.  I did spend nearly 30 years as an automotive design engineer (plus other jobs) at a Detroit based manufacturer.  My email address is attached to my profile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T13:55:31.373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:55:31.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T08:26:46.827" Score="5" ViewCount="5505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed a Uniden VX2600 car alarm into my 1993 toyota hiace super custom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/At2G5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/At2G5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing left is to connect the parklight wires from the alarm to the actual vehicle parklights or indicators.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDsmp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDsmp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, how can I connect these alarm lighting wires into either the main vehicle lighting so that the alarm causes the vehicles lights to flash?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It doesn't have to be the parklights specifically any of these would be ok &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hazard lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the indicator lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the parklights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What I have tried so far&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to find an OEM signal wire (e.g. from the hazard light switch  or the main light switch stalk behind the steering wheel) that I could just apply the wires from the alarm to - with a diode to prevent current bleed back into the main electrical system - but I can't find anything that causes the vehicle lights to switch on and off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I could connect directly to the light bulb holders themselves  (from  inside the park or indicator lights lens covers) would this work? if so would &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to supply to each light individually - or just one and the current will spread to the rest?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can I cause damage to the rest of the electrical system if I just connect &lt;strong&gt;12v +ve&lt;/strong&gt; from the alarm light output into the light bulbs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://s3.amazonaws.com/f01.justanswer.com/JACUSTOMERfm1fcwsb/2010-08-27_225411_VS1600XR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uniden VX2600 complete alarm wiring diagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19396" LastEditorUserId="19396" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T08:48:51.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T10:15:21.100" Title="How can I connect the flashing light circuit from an alarm into the main vehicle lighting on a Toyota Hiace van?" Tags="|alarm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32242" CreationDate="2016-06-28T08:55:20.337" Score="12" ViewCount="28406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading about load testing and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/alternator-full-field-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full fielding&lt;/a&gt; alternators in a few different books I've got, and one of the points they all made was that to test an alternator's maximum output (or close to it) the rpm's need to be raised to around 2000 to 2500 since alternators can't provide full current at idle speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems a bit counter intuitive to me as I would think that by design an alternator logically needs to be able to provide sufficient current at idle to power all accessories plus keep the battery charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical example, I took some measurements on my 99 Nissan Almera 1.6L (which I assume is in good working order.) I turned on the bright lights, A/C and radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At idle (about 850 rpm due to idle up) I measured a DC current of 59 amperes at the B+ alternator cable, and 11 amperes coming into the battery positive cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then raised the rpm to 2500 and measured again, getting a DC current of 69.2 amperes at the alternator and a DC current of 14.5 amperes at the battery. According to what I've read, normally only about 5 amperes is needed to keep the battery charged, but I'd been running some loads without the engine on for a few minutes before I did these tests so the battery probably needed a bit more charging than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly even with the idle up the alternator is not capable of providing all the current the system actually needs, yet at the same time it is providing sufficient current to run the system without drawing from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the underlying reasons that charging systems are set up this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="1172" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T20:51:33.027" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T01:46:46.717" Title="Why can't alternators provide full current at idle?" Tags="|alternator|charging|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32240" CreationDate="2016-06-28T09:33:57.647" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cost is the main reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternator that can provide full charging current would be far larger requiring bigger rotor and stator windings. This would make it more expensive and heavier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers are using the fact that you only spend a small amount of time idling compared to driving to their advantage. Most cars are designed to cruise at around 2krpm. This is were you spend most of the time, so to make the alternator smaller and lighter it is designed for rated output at that rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally that mythical alternator that can produce rated current at idle would make more than the rated current at 2krpm. If the car is designed to consume 100A with everything on then the 150A the alternator is capable of producing at 2krpm is wasted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T09:33:57.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32207" CreationDate="2016-06-28T10:07:40.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you would like to do with it. If you just want to clear some generic codes and the check engine light, then most generic OBD2 cables should work with appropriate software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do more advanced things, like reading Volvo specific codes or changing available parameters then what you need is &lt;em&gt;VIDA + DiCE&lt;/em&gt;. It's a Volvo diagnostics tool and software package intended for professional mechanics. Which means that besides being functional it's also expensive. Counterfeit Chinese units are available for a fraction of the price, but you didn't hear this from me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdXel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdXel.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DICE&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T10:07:40.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T10:25:35.827" Score="5" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently changed the alternator after it died in my diesel Yaris. I have done about 150 miles with the new alternator however it still doesn't start very well. It now takes 1 long or sometimes 2 starts and the engine sounds like its choking. The check engine light (CEL) is also on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to manually charge the battery, change the battery or something more sinister?&#xA;I need to do a long journey at the end of the week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19399" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T19:25:23.620" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T19:25:23.620" Title="Diesel Yaris doesn't start very well after an alternator change?" Tags="|toyota|starting|troubleshooting|diesel|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32223" CreationDate="2016-06-28T12:47:09.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've had an accident of some kind there could be damage anywhere on the tank, and that damage might not be apparent. There could be cracks or distortion which weaken it and later cause a catastrophic failure. So to be sure you have a complete repair you would need to get it out of the car so all the damage could be found in the first place. Also, you'd want a welded fix not putties or patches as nothing else is really reliable, and again you'd want the tank out so it could be thoroughly emptied and aired out - fuel fumes in the right concentration are an explosive. If the tank is out of the car you may as well replace it with a new or used tank in good condition as most of the cost is labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2000 USD for a gas tank replacement sounds like a total gouge to me unless you have something very unusual, get a second or third opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T12:47:09.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32216" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:04:20.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your tire was burning you'd know it, and it wouldn't stop when you stop the car. If you have a rear wheel drive car then it could be from the drivetrain, but I would bet it's the parking brake. Parking brakes usually work on the rear wheels, either with a separate set of calipers and pads, or by clamping the main brakes. It could also be a stuck brake caliper on just that side as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you have have caused significant wear to your brake pads, possibly making them need replacement. It could also have damaged your brake rotors by wearing them down, warping them, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should really get your car to a mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T14:04:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32240" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:33:01.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an alternator could provide its full output capacity at idle, what would it output at red line? Output amperage is proportional to rotational speed of the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Via gearing, an alternator could be made to spin faster at idle and produce its full amperage. However, at high RPM it would then be exceeding the speed at which it's designed to efficiently operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, alternators are sized appropriately for the estimated draw of the accessories. Not more, not less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T14:33:01.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32250" CreationDate="2016-06-28T14:56:03.973" Score="4" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2001 Honda CRV is blowing cold air in the front seat, but in the middle of the summer in the back seat, it's not very cool. If the A/C Clutch isn't engaging, will the A/C still blow somewhat cold? I don't hear it clicking on (unable to visually see it). I'd have to recheck the refrigerant levels too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11804" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T15:00:19.587" Title="Will cold air blow if A/C Clutch doesn't engage?" Tags="|honda|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32249" CreationDate="2016-06-28T15:00:19.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It wont cool without the clutch engaged. That is how it pumps and therefore cools the refrigerant. (someone correct me if I'm wrong) -- If you can see the belt on your engine, you should be able to see the clutch. You can tell if its engaged by looking at the disk inside the A/C compressor pully. If it rotates, its engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T15:00:19.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35739" CreationDate="2016-06-28T17:45:28.207" Score="3" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente that I am restoring and I'm trying to make it drive as smoothly as possible. However, the car's gear shifter lever on the steering column (automatic transmission) is super easy to move around. Barely any pressure is required to change gears in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't be that big of a problem but the car will sometimes go from park to reverse with hardly a bump to the lever. Are there any adjustments I can make to tighten the gear shifter so that it's not so easy to shift? Or does this sound more like something is worn out on the transmission/shifting components? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:15:40.150" Title="Mercury Comet Gear Shifter Is Loose" Tags="|transmission|troubleshooting|shifting|mercury|comet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32244" CreationDate="2016-06-28T17:46:40.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to have your battery load tested. Autozone or similar performs this service at no charge. Assuming that you have driven the vehicle for some length of time, the new alternator should have charged your battery sufficiently- or perhaps not- that is why it should be tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T17:46:40.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32239" CreationDate="2016-06-28T18:15:09.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the best place to make this change would be at the fuse box using a separate fuse. You will need a wiring diagram for your vehicle to identify the wires going from the fuse box exclusively to the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I need to supply to each light individually - or just one and the current will spread to the rest?&quot; Each bulb needs to receive current from its positive wire. Get a wiring diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;can I cause damage to the rest of the electrical system if I just connect 12v +ve from the alarm light output into the light bulbs?&quot; No. The bulbs are controlled by mechanical relays, so there is no connection to the rest of the system when the relay is off. When the relay is on,the potential is 12v throughout this wire already. There will be no electrical bleed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all assumes you splice into the correct wires. Seriously, I have done this for years and I would never gamble splicing any wire without a wiring diagram to positively identify what I am splicing into, what that is connected to, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:15:09.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32148" CreationDate="2016-06-28T18:24:12.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the perfect use case for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/TR7/1_Instructions/tr-7_instructions_010505.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pac tr-7&lt;/a&gt;. It's basically a programmable relay. You can set it up to do all sorts of tasks, usually around bypassing the requirement that a vehicle be in park for video to play or disabling traction control on startup. Good luck man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19403" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:24:12.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T18:41:42.173" Score="2" ViewCount="4854" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be higly appreciated if someone can help in trouble shooting the error code B1C2B in my 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has a 3.6L Engine. I know little about cars. Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T19:19:09.213" Title="How to repair B1C2B error code for Dodge Grand Caravan 2013?" Tags="|dodge|grand-caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32236" CreationDate="2016-06-28T19:04:10.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless is typically softer due to chromium and other metals added to the alloy to give it the stainless quality. However, the difference is certainly negligible for a wire brush in this situation. The reason they sell them in stainless vs regular is that one will rust and the other will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I've gone to all the trouble of getting down to my valve seats I have chosen to clean them by hand with softer tools which will not risk damage to the seats. A simple pick and brush set, etc. Heavy on the elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T19:04:10.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T19:11:11.473" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1989 ford econovan and this morning when i got in the clutch fully depressed with no resistance. I parked it 4 days ago and had no issues while driving. The van starts up fine, but will not go in gear. Any help would be great. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19405" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T19:11:11.473" Title="1989 Ford Econovan - clutch issues" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32255" CreationDate="2016-06-28T19:19:09.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears this diagnostic code is for the front passenger airbag. It is important that you resolve this issue as soon as possible, as any fault with the airbag system will shut off all airbag function, rendering them useless in the event of a crash until the issue is fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple forums have said they were able to resolve this specific issue by removing the glove box to gain access the passenger airbag, and using MAF or electronic safe cleaning spray (available in the automotive section at most department stores) on the contacts that give that airbag power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not comfortable doing this yourself following the rudimentary procedure &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/18856-Passenger-Squib-Circuit-Open&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, take the car to a &lt;strong&gt;trusted&lt;/strong&gt; mechanic and ask them to check and clean the contacts for the passenger airbag. If they try to tell you there are additional problems, &lt;strong&gt;get a second opinion&lt;/strong&gt; before committing to a expensive airbag replacement. A corroded contact is likely the only problem, but you never know until you look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T19:19:09.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T20:50:07.917" Score="3" ViewCount="21931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help finding why my car's air conditioning (2011 Ford Mustang v6) is only blowing cold air at idling and not while driving on the highway when it's 100°F here in Nashville. In the mornings while driving to work it blows cold air since it's maybe 78° outside but once I get off work it's 100°F and it won't blow cold air. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19411" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T00:02:32.687" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T14:05:37.297" Title="Air conditioning only makes cold air at idle" Tags="|ford|ac|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32240" CreationDate="2016-06-28T21:58:27.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your premise is backwards. Max output and sufficient output aren't the same thing. Your own numbers show that alternators provide sufficient output to keep the battery fully charged at idle. If they didn't, cars couldn't idle for very long as the battery would drain down. As indicated in the other answers to this question, the faster the alternator spins, the greater the output.&#xA;Sufficient at idle, more than needed at higher revs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T21:58:27.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32285" CreationDate="2016-06-28T23:42:23.917" Score="2" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to hold/lock two flanges together in such a way that I can lock the mechanism preventing someone else from separating the flanges (with some form of a key).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this isn't specifically a car maintenance question, but I figure this audience would be the best suited to pointing me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there are no holes in the flanges and I can not add any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a tool or clamp must exist that would meet these needs but I can't seem to find anything, or more likely don't know what key words to use when searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest tools or how to find such a device? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19414" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T18:17:53.170" Title="What to use to lock two flanges together?" Tags="|tools|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9065" CreationDate="2016-06-29T03:09:41.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not free. It's just that compared to everything else going on in the car, the power to charge your phone is insignificant. You could ask a similar question: &quot;where does the power come from to drive the speakers when I turn up the volume on the car stereo?&quot;. In both cases, the answer is: all other things being equal, the extra power comes from the alternator, which places extra load on the engine, which either burns a bit more fuel (maintaining the same RPM), or slows down a bit (thereby losing less idle power to all the things an engine loses power to when it idles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sometimes observable. When a car is idling, such as at a stop light (auto trans in drive, brakes applied to hold it), or possibly in park (or neutral if a manual trans). Activate a turn signal and listen carefully to the pitch of the engine. You may notice it rise and fall very slightly, in time with the turn signal. This is because the extra power to illuminate all the turn signal bulbs is imposing an additional load on the alternator, which in turn is imposing an additional load on the engine. This demonstration might not work if the turn signals use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs (they use less power, so the effect may be too small to notice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: &quot;there is no free lunch&quot;. The power to charge your cell phone has to come from somewhere - ultimately a little more fuel would have been burned that would otherwise have been applied to something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T03:09:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32223" CreationDate="2016-06-29T05:47:59.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the 2-part putty stick to repair the leaking tank on my 1968 Firebird, &lt;strong&gt;while it was actively leaking&lt;/strong&gt;. I backed into a parking stop and bumped the tank, when it shifted a bit it caused pinholes where the support strap was contacting the tank. I was young and broke, so I never had a chance to replace the tank. The putty repair lasted 1 1/2 years until I completely wrecked the car and sent it to the junker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T05:47:59.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32317" CreationDate="2016-06-29T08:55:11.790" Score="7" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have finaly got my factory new SEAT Leon and it is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as it is that new, I try to handle it like a raw egg.&#xA;So especially one thing confuses me, as for me it hurts (speaking here literarly) and for the car on the long turn I assume I'll break the specific part of my seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XR8ge.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XR8ge.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seat somewhat similiar to what I&amp;#39;m describing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an photo I made of my seat:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCqo7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCqo7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slight difference to the other seat, probably even making the difference&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Its the plastic part, used to upper or lower the drivers seat. It seems to be concaved or at least has a sharp edge facing to the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the problem is when I'm trying to get out of my seat, to leave the car my leg is getting in contact with the plastic part (pushing down the cloth far enough, as it is as said soft enough) before I'm able to make contact with my left foot to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see, that I'm easily able to push down the seat onto the plastic just with my hand. And thats what actually happening every time I leave the car.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztzRY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztzRY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to get my foot on the ground I have to lift my own weight over the plasticpart while thats beeing the only hinge point between my weight and the plastic part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I allready tried diferent ways of geting out of the car, without any of them beeing able to avoid this situation. I asked friends to try it out, while they all were leaving in the same body moves, all of them said they don't share my complains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I have found that I can avoid it by trying to get out the same way as getting into the car. problem here is, as for getting in my right leg is just stabilizing me as &quot;squeezing&quot; my inward motion. But as for getting out I'm pushing out and have to hold ballance until my left foot touches the ground. This looks pretty stupid and would let me, as soon I will loose a single time my ballance, let me drop backwards onto the street. So no long time solution either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on the one hand this puts a hurting pressure on the same part of my leg, everytime I leave the car, letting me after 2 days of owning the car detect allready bruises on my leg, and on the other hand even making me feel more uncomfortable with it the fact, that the part seems to be concaved and therefor soon will break at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:&#xA;Is this problem known?&#xA;If so, what is a reasonable workaround, preventing me to pressure my leg against the part.&#xA;If not so, what could I be doing wrong and what to change to do it right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15275" LastEditorUserId="15275" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T08:35:17.940" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T12:05:36.920" Title="Am I doing something wrong the way I'm entering/leaving my car?" Tags="|seat|seat-cars|seat-leon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32304" CreationDate="2016-06-29T11:30:13.537" Score="2" ViewCount="4834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of the cars I own have DOHC engines ( Nissan GA16DE and Mazda 2L FS ) which use shims for adjusting cam to lifter clearances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see an example here on the Nissan how the lifters are directly underneath the cams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9lKiP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9lKiP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Haynes manual for the Mazda 626 mentions a tool which can be used to replace the shims without removing the camshafts, but recommends against it saying the aftermarket tools they tried didn't work so well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nissan WSM for my car shows such a tool and &lt;em&gt;kindof&lt;/em&gt; shows how to use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzCYu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzCYu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good, generic after market tools which can be used to swap shims on these types of engines without having to remove the camshafts and clear instructions / videos on how to use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T08:39:29.023" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T08:39:29.023" Title="Tools for removing / installing valve shims without removing the camshaft" Tags="|nissan|mazda|tools|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12425" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:00:26.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that whenever my change engine oil light comes on in the dash and I ignore it a few days and miles later a low oil light comes on and if it is still not attended to the engine shut down until New oil is added. This happens to me on a couple of occassions.&#xA;My suggestion is keep your oil changed &#xA;You car is trying to protect itself and save you money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19417" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:00:26.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:40:48.787" Score="0" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;My gears seems to have moved a position to the right. Reverse sutsd where 1st should sit 3rd where 5th should be and 5 th no where to be found as I'm out of space by then. Also note we changed the clutch and pressure plates and also the innet right cv. Help please&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19355" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T15:29:31.163" Title="gearshift problem on Polo 1.6 2007 econoline" Tags="|ford|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32274" CreationDate="2016-06-29T13:17:19.547" Score="8" ViewCount="1538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am facing poor fueling with my carburetor in my 2011 Yamaha Fz 16. What are there trivial trouble shooting checks I need to do to diagnose the issue??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;When ever I am driving in low RPM, I feel like the fuel is cut off in short sharp intervals. And even with the Idle RPM adjuster screw cranked up to the max my idle RPM is very low that my engine turns off when I close the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19363" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T15:44:06.143" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T19:01:06.007" Title="How to troubleshoot carburetor?" Tags="|motorcycle|carburetor|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32272" CreationDate="2016-06-29T15:12:39.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These symptoms are typically caused by one or more blocked jets in the carburettor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small particles of grit can block any one of the jets in carburettors. The fuel still gets to the engine through the other jets but the efficiency is much degraded. The number and size of the jets varies by model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with Yamaha motorbike carbs but I have seen this problem on various old cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) On some older carburettors there will be a connector where you can connect a tyre pump and give a blast of air to clear the grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The jets easily unscrew, so you can blow through them individually. You will have to take the top off the float chamber to access some of them, this is just a matter of half a dozen screws. The float is connected to the top and will lift out as you remove the top.&#xA;While you have the float chamber exposed, it is worth checking if there is grit sitting at the bottom. If so, wipe it out with a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms you describe - stalling at idle - suggest that the Idle Jet is the one that is blocked.  This is visibly smaller than the main jet and is therefore more prone to blocking in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T15:12:39.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32288" CreationDate="2016-06-29T15:25:25.710" Score="5" ViewCount="15180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently &lt;s&gt;riding&lt;/s&gt; racing my Honda 250R (1986) (informally), and, all of a sudden, the engine quit completely.  I tried letting out the clutch in second gear (push starting) with my momentum, but although the engine turned over freely, there was no compression.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I checked the gas (although that wouldn't make a difference on compression).  The spark plug was fouled completely, but that wasn't the problem; I'm guessing that's just a symptom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong with the engine?  I haven't gotten a chance to start taking things apart yet, but I'm wondering about the reed valves (?) or the gaskets...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:35:28.017" LastActivityDate="2021-09-19T21:21:24.237" Title="No compression on my two stroke" Tags="|honda|compression|two-stroke|atv|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32271" CreationDate="2016-06-29T15:29:31.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like a gear linkage problem - depending on the vehile you've either got a mechanical linkage or a set of cables to move the gears based on where you move the stick, and I suspect the one that controls side-to-side movement is broken or misaligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen both problems before, on different vehicles - once where a mechanical linkage became misaligned and so couldn't get all the gears, and once where a bowden cable snapped and prevented fore-and-aft movement...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T15:29:31.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T15:44:12.177" Score="6" ViewCount="9615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I had a need for a &quot;memory saver&quot; while changing a battery on a 05' S500 I decided that instead of borrowing one from a friend all the time, I will make my own..&#xA;Now isn't it just a power supply that giving negative 12V to pin4,5 and positive 12V to pin 16 in the OBD II port?, why do people pay for it 39.99$?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19420" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T03:29:45.053" Title="DIY OBD II &quot;Memory saver&quot;" Tags="|battery|obd-ii|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19062" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:02:05.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used many CRC products: Brake &amp;amp; Carb cleaner; both chlorinated &amp;amp; non chlorinated and throttle body cleaner. The CRC &quot;green can&quot; brake cleaner works really well for all intents and purposes and can even be used (most) painted surfaces (IE: clean tree sap off of body paint). CRC Carb cleaner tends to remove paint. I have even used CRC brake cleaner to clean fuel injectors and it works really well. As the CRC &quot;green&quot; brake cleaner is the cheapest in cost of the line up, I generally use it exclusively. As far as cleaners go, a good page I found is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wastemin.com/discuss/index.php?threads/industrial-degreaser-performance-ratings-how-the-top-15-degreasers-stack-up.6/#.V3PsLdQrJko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wastemin.com/discuss/index.php?threads/industrial-degreaser-performance-ratings-how-the-top-15-degreasers-stack-up.6/#.V3PsLdQrJko&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19421" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T16:02:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:07:24.817" Score="3" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past week, the MPG on my car has gone down significantly, about 3-4 MPG. My driving habits have not changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, there is a distinct &quot;pneumatic&quot; clicking sound whenever I press the accelerator. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car, like the exhaust. It's more apparent the harder I press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19422" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T22:49:41.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T22:49:41.133" Title="Decreased MPG, clicking sound when pressing accelerator" Tags="|honda|civic|exhaust|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:14:35.680" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a water pump put on my Aurora old mobile 99 and the heat keep going up and down. What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19423" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T22:17:27.980" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T23:48:57.707" Title="My 99 Aurora oldsmobile overheating" Tags="|overheating|oldsmobile|aurora|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29503" CreationDate="2016-06-29T16:37:11.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, when a car is having issues with idling or stalling the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is at fault.  There are typically 1 of 2 issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - The port is dirty.  Pull off your air cleaner hoses so you can see the throttle body.  There should be a port on the side.  This is for the IACV.  Spray carb cleaner into this hole to remove deposits.  Reassemble and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - The valve is failing.  Cover the TB partially with your hand, not enough to choke it out. This will cause the IACV to open. Unplug the IACV, remove your hand, and the idle should be high (2,000 RPM+). Plug the IACV back in and the idle should drop to normal. OR pull a vacuum line to close the IACV, unplug, reconnect vacuum line, idle should be low, reconnect and idle should raise to normal.  If the idle does not react as described, the IACV itself is likely at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T16:37:11.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32251" CreationDate="2016-06-29T17:01:44.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not positive how it is set up on your vehicle, but here is where I would look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go under the hood, find the steering column.  There should be a tube around the column with linkage that goes down to the transmission.  There should be a piece with raised pieces to help you not accidentally shift out of park.  Around here somewhere should be a spring that holds everything in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work out.  Find the linkage at the transmission and follow it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 factors.  The spring (how hard you have to push) and the raised edges (how far you have to push).  Be aware some shifter are only made to pull so far, and if you pull them further, you will break it!  I found this one out the hard way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T17:01:44.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32219" CreationDate="2016-06-29T17:27:48.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I have used this answer on several questions for chevy truck brake issues)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are very similar. I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, install short lines, and have them go back to the reservoir on the master. Pump until no bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench bleed the ABS. Same as bench bleeding the master. I didn't try this, but I think it would have really helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, &lt;strong&gt;close the bleeder&lt;/strong&gt;, release the pedal. This will help from air getting trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple methods I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal pump bleeding. Never quite got it right. I wasn't closing the bleeders in between pumps though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure bleeding - apply pressure to the master cylinder reservoir to push fluid through. Might had worked had the top been able to seal well, but it ended up just making a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum bleeding - apply vacuum at the bleeder. Be sure to use a ton of Teflon tape so you don't suck air from around the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse bleeding - Push fluid from the bleeder back through to the master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up modifying some bleeders by cutting the tip off so I could screw it all the way down to ensure no air would get past the threads. Used a ton of Teflon tape. Vacuum bleed until I purged the line, reverse bleed, install original bleeder, vacuum bleed until I don't see bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reverse bleeding helps get the bubbles out near the master/abs where there is a long drop. The bubbles want to go up, and normal methods are trying to push them down. I might had had good success with bench bleeding the ABS first also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note, at least on my truck, part of the process is to have the dealer run an automated bleed on the ABS system. This takes a very specific scan tool. I tried several of my cousin's professional Snap-On scan tools, and they were not able to do the ABS bleed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T17:27:48.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32262" CreationDate="2016-06-29T18:17:53.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the application allows, you could use something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/v-band-clamps-from-race-parts-solutions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;V band clamp&lt;/a&gt; with an anti tamper nut.  Although it wouldn't 'lock', using a fastener with an obscure head would essentially require a 'key'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Brand/Precision-PW46-46mm-Wastegate-Parts/Precision-Turbo-PW46-46mm-Wastegate-V-Band-Clamp-Inlet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;V band clamps that use a male fastener&lt;/a&gt;, which would give you even more options for fasteners that require obscure tools to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19424" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T18:17:53.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T18:29:16.793" Score="6" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 GMC Envoy 4WD with a clean title, 54k miles.  Very good condition.  I recently purchased my second set of tires, Pirelli Scorpion ATRs. They are solid and quiet, but after changing them I noticed a shimmy in the steering wheel.  Turns out two were defective with high run-out, so I got some replacements for free and the same mechanic installed them.  On the same visit I had a 4WD alignment and my sway bar bushings replaced.  Long story short, the vibration has improved, but not totally disappeared after visiting the mechanic two more times.  They are unable to detect any issues after an inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shimmy is now a subtle vibration over 60 mph and stays pretty much the same past that speed.  If you let go o f the steering wheel you can see it actually shaking a bit, and the car pulls to the left.  Passengers can also feel it through the seats/floor.  I can't imagine the CV joints or wheel bearings are bad if the mechanic says it all checks out.  If you didn't know any better it might even seem like just the nature of the car, but I've driven this car for years and I'm positive it's just not the same as before.  Any insight as to what on earth is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19426" LastEditorUserId="19426" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T14:02:54.740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T14:02:54.740" Title="What is causing this slight vibration?" Tags="|tires|vibration|gmc|envoy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32286" CreationDate="2016-06-29T18:39:30.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the tire change seems to be the onset of the problem, my first suspicion would be that one or more of the wheels aren't properly &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_balance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;balanced&lt;/a&gt;.  It's possible your mechanic's balancing machine isn't working correctly, or that one of the small weights placed on the wheel has fallen off.  You may consider going to another shop and having them verify the balance of the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19424" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T18:39:30.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32275" CreationDate="2016-06-29T19:33:47.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either there's a problem with the head gasket, or with the piston rings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Remember, the piston rings fly over the openings in the cylinder wall, and there's no radial force onto the section exposed to the opening, pushing it into its groove. Shortly after, this section touches the cylinder wall again and experiences the radial force pushing it back. Piston rings are rigid enough that this usually isn't a problem, but it is a weak point, and the piston ring may break there. If it breaks into more than two pieces, one may escape through the exhaust, leaving the motor with low compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How a 2-stroke motor works&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This animation shows a 2-stroke motor at work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfTVT.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfTVT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2-Stroke_Engine_ani.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go through the steps, staring with the ignition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cylinder is in the upper position, there's already fresh mixture (green) at ambient pressure in the crank case, and the pressure from the combustion forces the piston down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At some point, the exhaust opening is uncovered, and the pressurized exhaust fumes (gray) leave the cylinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little later, the intake opening is uncovered. The mixture in the crank case has been pressurized a little until now, because the reed valve prevented it from flowing back into the carburetor. The fresh gas is pushed into the cylinder, and helps to push out the exhaust fumes through the still uncovered exhaust opening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Well, that's interesting: The inertia of the moving exhaust fumes pulls in even more mixture directly through the carburetor! Some of the fresh gas even flows into the exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The piston moves up and first covers the intake opening. From now on, new mixture is sucked into the crank case. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24755/why-do-two-stroke-engine-exhaust-pipes-look-so-strange/24884#24884&quot;&gt;special design of the exhaust system&lt;/a&gt;, the mixture in the exhaust is pushed back into the cylinder right before the exhaust opening is covered. This means, the mixture in the cylinder is already compressed a little at this point, though the effect heavily depends on RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the exhaust opening is covered, the final compression in the cylinder takes place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Compression&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the piston moves up, the pressure above increases a lot, somewhere into the region of 15-20bar (atmospheres). Since the reed valve is open at that moment, fresh mixture streams into the crank case, and it doesn't build up any noticeable vacuum. The force exerted by the pressure onto the piston is the (periodic) resistance you feel when starting the motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the piston moves down, it indeed compresses the mixture in the crank case, but since the ratio of volume between piston up and piston down isn't that large, the max pressure in the crank case is not so high. Also the much higher pressure in the cylinder helps to compress the gas in the crank case. Due to this, you can hardly feel the resistance from this compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at low RPM (i.e. when starting the motor) you can assume ambient pressure in the cylinder when it covers the exhaust opening, and the compression relies on the tightness of the piston ring, the head gasket, and the spark plug. So if you say there's no compression. i.e. no resistance, the problem should be located there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Defect reed valve&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reed valve can become leaky. In this case, some air can go through the carburetor three times, leading to a way too rich mixture. And due to the lower pressure in the crank case, the exhaust fumes in the cylinder aren't replaced by mixture very well. As result, motor performance is low, especially at low RPM where more mixture can escape through the valve. Depending on how bad it is, the motor even will not start. But you will not notice that as low compression!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reed valve can also break, but then you have debris flying around in the motor, making even more damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Repair&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the reed valve if you want, it sits directly in the wall of the crank case wall, and should be easy to remove.Judging if it's OK or not can be difficult, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely disassemble cylinder head, cylinder and the piston to check the rings / condition of the rest. It's not that complicated if you dare to do it. The most important things are not to let anything fall into the crank case (cover with cloth) and being careful when pushing the piston back into the cylinder, since getting the rings in is a little tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T08:57:54.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32277" CreationDate="2016-06-29T19:34:57.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I think the easiest thing to do would be to get a 9 volt battery connector like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hrxpi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hrxpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and some alligator clips with wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOWgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOWgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and just plug in the battery, connect the clips to the 9v connector wires and to the ends of the car's battery connectors then disconnect the the car battery and install the new one.  You could probably get it all for a few dollars at the most including the 9v battery.  Now I just thought of this while reading your question, so I've never tried it, but it seems like it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000GKD5Q0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt; of a commercial 9 volt battery powered memory saver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some people who recommend putting a diode in the positive wire so there's no chance for current to flow backwards into the memory saver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Y5rwnMuZVbk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video how to build something similar&lt;/a&gt;, including the diode and explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T19:02:32.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T19:02:32.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="439" CreationDate="2016-06-29T21:29:00.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i think you can use the washable filters depending on the model and availability.It would be cost effective and better to use because of built-in one.It is experienced that when we replace the built-in one with the new , performance goes down usually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19428" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T21:29:00.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T22:51:33.447" Score="6" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Own a 2011 SS Camaro.  The rust on the centers (hubs) of the rotors has created a significant appearance problem since the factory sport wheels have thin spokes.  Really looks bad.   There's got to be a way to deal with this situation.  I've watched videos where parts (including brake rotors) are dipped or submerged in a rust removing solution.  They seem to come out clean any shinny, but the rust will return immediately on the cast iron rotors if something isn't applied to the cleaned areas.  Interested in recommendations to solve this problem.  Anybody tried a process that works and lasts?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19431" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T23:18:48.680" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T23:18:48.680" Title="BRAKE ROTOR RUST" Tags="|chevrolet|brake-rotor|camaro|appearance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T23:10:41.967" Score="8" ViewCount="13640" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many methods for polishing and restoring clouded, discolored headlights.  My question is:  once headlights have been polished and appear quite clear what sort of treatment effectively preserves their clarity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous headlight restoration sealant products out there.  Are they effective?  Some restoration kits contain a sealant and others do not.  I have read various anecdotal accounts suggesting they are ineffectual.  Wax is occasionally mentioned as the only necessary &quot;sealant&quot;/protectant that is necessary for headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not interested in any particular recommended product.  If a sealant or alternative product is advised I am only wondering what characteristics a consumer should look for when making their selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional background information could be helpful as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is certainly variation in headlight plastics.  Perhaps a single treatment is not universally appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Information about the finish of headlight surfaces by original manufacturers.  Raw polished surface or additional treatment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21684/headlight-sealant&quot;&gt;Headlight sealant?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11882/realistically-how-much-can-i-expect-to-improve-cloudy-headlights-by-polishing&quot;&gt;Realistically, how much can I expect to improve cloudy headlights by polishing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T16:43:59.740" Title="Sealing / effectively preserving restored headlights" Tags="|headlight|restoration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2016-06-29T23:17:32.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way I'm aware of to cure this is to get zinc coated rotors. While the zinc in the wear areas (where the brake is applied) wears off quickly, all the rest of the brake remains coated in zinc and doesn't rust. This leaves it semi-shiney all the time. I had them on my 1994 Z28 which had the C6 Z06 wheels on it and shows quite a bit of the brake disk. They continued to look good the two or so years I owned the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T23:17:32.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32293" CreationDate="2016-06-29T23:25:02.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to keep them looking good is to utilize clear spray lacquer which is is not affected by UV. UV light is what causes the cloudiness in the first place. By spraying the clearcoat on there, you effectively protect the lense from the harmful UV rays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get through sanding the lense down, throw several light coats of the clear, then follow up with a thick coat (not enough to run, but thicker than the rest). This will give you durability so you won't have to do it again any time soon. Do this without ever letting the first coat dry completely, so only a 8-10 minutes dry time between. There are plenty of videos on YouTube for it ... in fact I think &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ChrisFix&lt;/a&gt; has a really good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T23:25:02.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T23:40:01.850" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;My left rear tire looks kind of flat but no bubble after I spun out into shoulder during rainstorm. Is it dangerous to keep driving on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19434" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T23:40:01.850" Title="My left rear tire looks kind of flat" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32259" CreationDate="2016-06-30T00:47:24.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bryan,  I must admit I'm very confused by the way you are asking your question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) I think you are saying that your car's air conditioning works well when the outside air temperature is at 78°F, but it doesn't work when the outside air temperature is 100°F.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But its also possible that you are saying... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) My car's air conditioning works well when I first start the car, but after the engine warms up, it doesn't cool off the interior of the car anymore.  In fact the vents discharge warm air!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry, I got lost in your description of which 'it' is which!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are two things possible here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we are talking the first case, that could be just about anything related to general A/C performance.  Appropriate pressures, no refrigerant leaks, correct A/C clutch air gap, correct cycling times.  Here I would strongly recommend you pick up a Service manual (Haynes or Chiltons) and review the A/C troubleshooting guides.  Best is to use a gauge set and read the high / low pressures on the system while it is running.  That way you'll know if there is too much refrigerant, too little refrigerant, or perhaps other troubles.  And yes, Condenser fan is a possible.  I will say for the root cause of condensor / engine cooling fan inoperative what you will see is terrible A/C performance at idle and good performance at 60 MPH.  (hint: from what you've said, I doubt its the cooling fan...Also, if the cooling fan was inoperative, the engine temperature gauge would be quite high.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if your issue is the second case (good A/C performance when engine is cold, bad performance when engine is warmed up) that would indicate that the temperature blend door is stuck partially open.  In your car, engine coolant flow into the heater core all the time.  They use a small plastic door to control the air flows into the core.  That door is driven by a small motor and plastic gear set, controlled by the Red/Blue (Hot/Cold) knob on your dashboard... The door is fully closed at the blue end of the dial, and fully opened at the red end of the dial. If that isn't set to full cold (or is not getting there for some other reason) that would definitely cause bad performance when the engine warms up. Air is leaking thru the hot heater core, and that will definitely overwhelm A/C cooling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make sense?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T15:28:51.513" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T15:28:51.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T03:00:59.603" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking into this 1999 Ford Escort zx2 turbo as kind of a fun little car to have. The guy only wants 600 for it. He said it jumped the timing at the dyno and the pistons hit the exhaust valves and bent them. Hes saying that the forged pistons are fine and the only thing the car needs is exhaust valves. I'm pretty handy when it comes to working on vehicles and I was wondering if this would be something I could fix my self? If not I'm curious as to what it would cost to have a mechanic fix it? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19437" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T03:00:59.603" Title="99 ford escort zx2 turbo jumped timing belt" Tags="|escort|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T05:19:22.377" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of used 2014 Subaru STI calipers that I am considering to have refinished. They're black and have STI logos, but they'll be going on a vehicle that is not an STI which is why I'm considering this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, they're fairly dirty and do appear to have some oil or brake fluid on them in a few spots. They also still have the original brake pads on them, as well as the other hardware except for the caliper mounting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to do anything to these calipers before sending them off to be refinished, most likely powder coated? If so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T13:25:14.860" Title="Do I have to do anything to brake calipers in order to prep them for refinishing?" Tags="|brake-calipers|powder-coating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-11T17:32:45.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T06:20:04.670" Score="2" ViewCount="2827" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vehicle just has first service two months back. And then engine was burning the oil. I didn't see any smoke coming backside of my vehicle. There is no mileage problem or pickup or power problems. Everything's fine. I didn't see any leakages too. But sometimes in running randomly the engine doesn't move with the accelerator. It just moves in same speed. It doesn't responds to the accelerator. What will be the problem and how much cost it takes to repair for individual problems? Can you help me with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19439" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:14:05.680" Title="Skoda rapid 1.6 diesel, 2013.. engine oil burning" Tags="|engine|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32308" CreationDate="2016-06-30T06:27:35.807" Score="1" ViewCount="1459" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an effort to design a theoretical engine capable of outputting 3000 horsepower, I was hoping to emulate the 10.2 liter Chevrolet V8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specifications for this engine? I was hoping for the cylinder bore &amp;amp; stroke, as well as the piston style, valve train, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19391" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T18:36:22.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T20:03:10.750" Title="Engine specifications for 10.2 liter Chevrolet V8" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|engine-theory|horsepower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-06-30T13:27:37.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32268" CreationDate="2016-06-30T06:48:41.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so this is what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wI4LznrDzcg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a nice vid showing how to use the above type of tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://mazda626.net/topic/24204-for-98-valve-clearance/?do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=229541&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this procedure on a Mazda 626 forum&lt;/a&gt; and am &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;guessing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; it would be generally applicable to any engine with this kind of cam and lifter setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is possible to adjust valve clearance with the camshaft in place.&#xA;  Not very easy, but doable for the experienced DIY'er:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;      &lt;p&gt;Check valve clearance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Wrench with 10mm socket &amp;amp; 16mm spark plug socket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-RTV sealant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Depending on its state: valve cover gasket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;      &lt;p&gt;Adjust valve clearance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-2 large (10mm wide tip) screwdrivers; as long as possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-1 medium (6mm tip) screwdriver also not too short&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-very tiny screwdriver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-magnetic pencil/bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Measure valve clearance (e.g. Haynes does explain this very well, or see this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mazda626.net/index.php?s=&amp;amp;s...t&amp;amp;p=229085&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mazda626.net/index.php?s=&amp;amp;s...t&amp;amp;p=229085&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-If one or more valve clearances are out of tolerances remove the shim using the procedure below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Have the cam above the shim pointing upwards for maximum clearance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Press the tappet down as far as possible with the first large screwdriver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Put the tip of the second large screwdriver between the tappet and the camshaft to block the tappet in the lowered position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Remove the first big screwdriver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*With the tiny screwdriver, loosen the shim from the tappet (there's some suction of oil between the shim and the tappet), then pull it&#xA;  further out with the magnet pencil/bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*You can't completely remove the shim, because the second large screwdriver is blocking the way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Now, with the medium screwdriver, press the tappet down from the other side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Remove the second large screwdriver which was between the camshaft and the tappet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Now completely remove the shim with the magnet pencil/bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Calculate the new shims size and buy the correct size at the dealership (probably the only place to get it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Press the tappet down again on the back side using the medium screwdriver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Insert the new valve shim and push it into the tappet as far as possible (possibly 80-90%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Now remove the medium screwdriver and press the shim in totally&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Do this for every valve which is out of tolerance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Put the valve cover back on, and you're done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The procedure will be a pain in the ass the first time you do it. It&#xA;  took me 30 minutes before I found out this procedure myself and was&#xA;  able to remove the shim. Next shims were much more easy to remove!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because the insertion of the shim is so much easier than the removal,&#xA;  you don't have to be too afraid of removing the shim, withour being&#xA;  able to put it back in....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T06:48:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32321" CreationDate="2016-06-30T06:56:49.687" Score="7" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two Japanese cars ( a Mazda and a Nissan ) which use cams placed directly over the valves ( no rocker arm ) which contact a shim sitting on top of a bucket over the valve.  Are the shims used by different manufacturers all the same circumference such that I could use for example Toyota shims in a Nissan or Mazda or visa versa, or are the all different circumferences?  I.e. are these type of shims standardized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T08:39:19.263" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T08:39:19.263" Title="Are bucket shims for mainstream Japanese cars interchangable?" Tags="|parts|part-interchange|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T07:49:21.730" Score="3" ViewCount="3327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went in to Midas to get my brake pads finished beginning around Feb this year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 days back my brakes start screeching. I drive and when they are changed I realize the two brake pads on 1 front wheel are completely finished and the 2 on the other side are still pretty full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what the cause of this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19440" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T09:57:34.840" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T13:58:05.607" Title="Brake pads finished on only 1 front wheel" Tags="|brakes|wear|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32306" CreationDate="2016-06-30T09:13:42.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess &lt;em&gt;finished&lt;/em&gt; means completely outworn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a seized caliper on that side, which always brakes a little and so wears the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not have to brake that much that you notice it, but typical signs are a hotter wheel on the one side compared to the other side after some (especially fast) driving and a wobbling noise which often occurs above a certain speed and vanishes at a different, lower speed. You may also notice that the car pulls to one side of the good brake when braking from high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hint: Lift your car and compare how well you can rotate the wheel by hand, compared to the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper can be overhauled, but since this also is some work / money, simply replacing it may be the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, it could be something different upstream the brake system, but usually, it's a seized caliper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T09:13:42.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32303" CreationDate="2016-06-30T10:10:55.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Chev 622ci = 10.2l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found dimensions for a Chev 632 cubic inch =10.3l&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stroke: 4.750&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rods: 6.635&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bore: 4.600&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engines/Blueprint-Pro-Series-Big-Block-Chevy-632ci-815HP-800TQ/1321871/10002/-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engines/Blueprint-Pro-Series-Big-Block-Chevy-632ci-815HP-800TQ/1321871/10002/-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The horsepower output you're talking about would require forced induction. So turbocharged or supercharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a twin turbo 3000 hp chev &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=3661&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=3661&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="6531" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T20:03:10.750" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T20:03:10.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2016-06-30T10:12:55.210" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you must have to mention it on bike Because carburetor is being used in them mostly and if its leaked than you must first air dry the filter after oiling procedure and then check it out by putting it back. But it would be better to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19441" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T10:12:55.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T10:57:43.003" Score="8" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has several types of paint issues that I worry that they might cause me big troubles in the future. I am looking for ways to solve these issues now so that I save some trouble in the future. Specifically I wish to do some Rust prevention and cosmetic improvement! I don't need it to look like new!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here my paint issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1 Some paint peeling off&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVy7K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVy7K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paint peeling off car&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2 Some scratches on the side (I have no idea how they got here and I don't know how to assess how deep these scratches are.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYrMI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYrMI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Car Scratches on the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3 Some paint missing here&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPdEo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPdEo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paint missing in Car&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you offer me some advice on each of these types of paint issues? Low budget solutions will be especially appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now know how to get the color code of the car as described &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/527/where-can-i-find-my-cars-colour-code&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.automotivetouchup.com/paint-codes/volvo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for Volvo cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:01:15.973" Title="How can I fix the paint in my car?" Tags="|paint|paint-scratches|diy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T11:14:38.583" Score="3" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a holden jackaroo and the last 3 days in the morning I have tried to start it but it doesn't even try to kick over but normally on the third try it starts like there is nothing wrong, what could it be? its a manual 1998 model, fuel injected, the dash lights come on as normal aswell &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19442" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T17:48:09.737" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:48:09.737" Title="holden jackaroo won't kick over until the third attempt" Tags="|starting|ignition|starter|holden|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32301" CreationDate="2016-06-30T13:25:14.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone else is refinishing them for you, you don't HAVE to do anything. Whether or not the person refinishing them for you will charge you extra because they had to do all of the prep work is probably the real thing to consider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would at least use some brake parts cleaner to blast the majority of the grime off of them before sending them off. I'd also probably remove the brake pads and brake pad seats (those little metal clips that the brake pad ends sit in) since they won't be refinished during the process. You could also take out the caliper pins, pin boots, and bleeder valve if it can be removed. Anything that saves the refinisher time saves you money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T13:25:14.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32306" CreationDate="2016-06-30T13:58:05.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd put my money on a failed caliper on the opposite (less worn) side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what happens if a brake caliper fails and doesn't apply any clamping force on the rotor. Your car will certainly brake less well, and in order to stop you're going to have to apply more force. The side that functions is going to dissipate all of the car's energy and gets hotter and wears faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A failure to clamp could be caused by a seized piston in the caliper, likely due to old or contaminated brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19446" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T13:58:05.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:40:17.503" Score="10" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to fix the shifter on my dirt bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've located the problem, which is a pin that's come loose. The shifter kind of works, but every now and then it gets jammed because this loose pin isn't properly restricting the movement of the part and you need to force it back into place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to be turned with a 14mm socket or wrench, and i can get to it, but I can't rotate it more than 1/8th of a turn because the clutch housing is in the way. I'd really rather not have to take the entire bike apart just to tighten this one bolt... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kind of looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIMwz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EIMwz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: Does anybody know of something I can use to grab the smooth end of the pin hard enough to tighten it, or anything else I can try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19447" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T18:35:28.547" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T18:35:28.547" Title="Need to rotate an out of reach bolt or pin" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|shifting|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-06-30T15:25:33.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a long reach wrench. Something like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFVIR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFVIR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T15:25:33.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32302" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:14:05.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the oil levels go to the empty mark in just 2000kms, then we definitely have a problem here. Generally the 1.5/1.6 engines run healthy for around 8K-10K kms without oil levels dipping drastically or the oil getting burnt. The only visible difference we get on running on the same oil for 10K kms are that the oil gets black in color and also loses viscosity. Thus, it is advised to change the oil at around 5-6K kms (non-synthetic) and around 8-10K (synthetic).&#xA;Coming back to your problem, I would suggest you to look out for these symptoms, for diagnosing whether the oil is getting burnt or its getting leaked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Temperature-If the engine heats up abnormally after a normal ride (temperature meter above the middle mark towards HOT), then the oil pump may have issues. The oil is not getting circulated evenly across all the nooks and corners on the engine block and thus local regions of engine are getting extremely hot, and thereby the oil is getting burnt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color of the smoke from exhaust: If the smoke is black in color under normal acceleration, then there is a high chance of oil getting burnt in the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel Efficiency: If you are burning oil in the engine, then your fuel economy will fall drastically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you see any of the above points to be present in your car, then you can be sure that the oil is getting burnt in your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you do not see any of the above symptoms, there you do not have the problem of oil burning, now the investigation can shift to finding out if there is any leakage. Here's how you can find it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park the car overnight in a clean garage. Check the garage floor on the following morning. If you see oil marks (don't confuse the AC drained water to be oil), then the sump or an oil line is leaking. Easy job, just find out the leak and plug it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not see any oil mark, then you can put the car in a dyno, rev the engine and check if there any leak from the engine block due to a blown gasket. You will need a trained technician to find it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still do not find any matching symptoms, then I would suggest you get the compression checked in all cylinders. There may be an issue with the piston rings placement and thus the oil can be leaking from improperly set pistons rings. As you mention that your engine is quite new, there can be a problem with the way the engine was 'run-in' during its 'breaking-in' stage. This problem can be diagnosed by checking the compression of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:14:05.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32266" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:34:50.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's your brand new car, and thus you are extra gentle with her, but trust me, she is much tougher than you think. The plastics are built to bend and buckle, but not to break. It may seem that the plastic is going to break, but in normal circumstances, like the one you mentioned, it will never break.&#xA;However, for your peace of mind, you can try taking the door as a support to put most of your body weight when entering/exiting your car. How will you use the door as a support? You can put your hand on the top of the door window frame and put most of your body weight on the door, while you lift yourself up and get inside the car. Same way you can also exit the vehicle. If your window sill has any space or ridge wide enough to get a grip on, you can also take the support of the window sill to exit the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A word of caution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dont put your weight on the handrest of the door pad. Make sure that the weight is getting loaded on the metal part of the door and not the door pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best! Happy Motoring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:34:50.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:38:22.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough space that you can fit a ratcheting wrench over it, that may be a solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnNRG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnNRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, you can turn it a little bit at a time. Failing that, if you REALLY want to try to grab the pin, try some vice grips. Tighten them to the appropriate width, clamp them down, and try to turn.. You'll likely damage the pin with the grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JZhPJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JZhPJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:38:22.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:08:45.230" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you ever wonder why an open ended wrench is angled at exactly 15° ?  That's so you can turn a nut a little bit, flip the wrench over, turn it a little bit more, and get the job done!  You mentioned that you can turn the wrench 1/8th of a turn.  That's plenty!  In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if the mount was designed to accommodate the 15° wrench flip process.  That criteria has been out there for probably a century (100 years!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it, and let us know how that works. Place open ended wrench on the base, turn as far as possible, remove wrench, flip it and try again.  (And if you've already tried, this apologies...  Info offered here for anybody else who may have never heard of this technique.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:08:45.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:09:35.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to get the bolt past finger tight, you could wrap a piece of rubber around the pin, then pull the end of the rubber from the right side, kinda like how pull-start yard equipment works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have to push against the pin with an open ended wrench at the same time so balance the side load you're applying, but you may be able to provide enough torque to get the bolt tight, or into a position where another 1/8th turn from the wrench will hold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rubber, I'm thinking using a thick rubber band would work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably only provide a short term solution to get you through the holiday weekend (USA! USA!), or maybe the end of this season. To avoid potentially damaging part of the bike and/or yourself. you should probably just bite the bullet and  take the assembly apart, throw on some thread locker, and properly torque the bolt into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T17:56:32.787" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:56:32.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32305" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:20:02.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost never will you find two sets of shims from different manufacturers that are identical.  That said, it's a shim.  You can reshape a larger one if need be, though it's a hack job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you really want to go DIY, no, they're not interchangeable even if they're the right thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18980" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:20:02.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:35:16.583" Score="4" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a 0715 DTC ( 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L, GF4A-EL transmission ) which is related to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f81b3cb11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;turbine speed sensor&lt;/a&gt;.  Some of the symptoms according to the ATSG transmission manual are harsh and erratic shifting, which I've been experiencing since the code was thrown.  In the manual it says that in case of a malfunction in this sensor shifts are made based on the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe for the transmission to drive it like this?  I've only driven a little since getting the code and have tried to drive very conservatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T19:20:53.730" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T19:20:53.730" Title="Will it harm the transmission to drive with a defective Turbine Speed Sensor?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30430" CreationDate="2016-06-30T20:48:28.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some searching on IATN and found known good pressure waveforms that are identical to my after repair captures. Unfortunately I can't post them here. It turns out that hump is completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing more captures on different cars with VVT I've found that most waveforms are unique to some degree. I guess the same can be said about non VVT engines based on the camshaft profile. Though they do look pretty similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T20:48:28.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32418" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:07:58.013" Score="4" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have rear facing child seat in middle row middle seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19455" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T18:29:44.790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T01:26:49.330" Title="Ford Explorer 2014 child seat in second row middle seat" Tags="|ford|explorer|child-seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:32:19.110" Score="5" ViewCount="2966" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptom:&lt;/strong&gt; When activated by the turn signal combo switch, turn signal goes on for about 5-10 seconds, and then turns itself off.  Turn signal combo switch remains in the on position, but the turn signal stops.  The symptom is sporadic: sometimes it works correctly, sometimes it does not; sometimes the symptom is only in one turn direction, sometimes both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research:&lt;/strong&gt; Research indicates that it is most likely a faulty turn signal flasher or the signal combo switch itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Besides replacing one and seeing if it fixes the problem, is there a way to determine which part needs to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T14:56:00.467" Title="How to diagnose if sporadic turn signal functioning is signal flasher or signal combo switch?" Tags="|electrical|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32326" CreationDate="2016-06-30T23:17:11.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since its sporadic it is more annoying to troubleshoot, but you should be able to check for voltage after the combo switch and see if that is consistent. There should be continuous voltage to charge the flasher (from my understanding of how the flashers work) to charge the flasher. If there is stable voltage when the blinker stops blinking, then there's probably something wrong with the flasher. Could be a bad cap or relay, but it's not even worth opening it up to find out. You may save a few buck fixing the flasher, but you'll lose twice what you save in time spent. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if your vehicle is outfitted with LED blinkers this changes how the flasher functions, but unless they are factory LED blinkers, the above should hold true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T23:17:11.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32280" CreationDate="2016-06-30T23:48:57.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A water pump is only one component of an engine cooling system.  You could have a partially clogged radiator, a thermostat that's not opening and closing properly, an air pocket in the system caused by the removal and replacement of the water pump.  Recommend getting someone who knows cooling systems to check it out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19431" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T23:48:57.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32326" CreationDate="2016-07-01T00:00:23.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky, there is a separate flasher for the emergency flashers that uses a similar relay.  If so, just swap them and see if the issue is fixed.  Or you may swap one from another car, just to test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T00:00:23.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32331" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T00:42:33.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a car is first started, the idle speed will be a little higher than normal until the engine warms up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T10:23:35.627" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T10:23:35.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32332" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T00:42:33.117" Score="0" Body="Tag your question with &quot;fast-idle&quot; if your vehicle's engine speed with no gas pedal applied is higher than normal." OwnerUserId="16014" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T10:06:04.467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T10:06:04.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32345" CreationDate="2016-07-01T01:33:35.023" Score="4" ViewCount="4934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wondering if someone can help me eliminate potential issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squealing, somewhat screechy, somewhat chirpy noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No sound at all while parked, even reving up to 4,000 RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound starts while moving (any speed), by hitting the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reminds me of the sound 18-wheelers make in New York City in stop-and-go traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound persists even after completely letting go of brakes, though softer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The higher-pitched &quot;chirps&quot; sync with the speed of the wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch very closely coupled with brake pressure: I can practically play a tune with my foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tried driving 15mph on empty road, killed ignition, letting car roll, hit brakes. Sound is there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; like I distinctly hear it on my side, but I don't have a passenger to help me listen from the other side. I hear it &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; loud on the highway when in the fast lane next to concrete dividers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serpentine belts would make a sound even while idling, no? Would brakepads make noise even while brakes are disengaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional Information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a 2002 Toyota 4Runner. I just completed a trip across the U.S. My roommate's a hobby mechanic, so he did the following work a few days before my trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil change and oil filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced all 3 serpentine belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked and filled tire pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed fuel filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Topped off coolant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Topped off washer fluid and replaced wipers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Topped off brake fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also did the following within a few months of the trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed spark plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New tires, alignment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmission fluid and filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Differential fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3549" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T05:42:54.540" Title="Loud squealing sound, only while driving (2002 Toyota 4Runner)" Tags="|brakes|troubleshooting|noise|belt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T02:31:33.777" Score="7" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1990 Vanagon camper has an after market Kenwood radio NOT wired through the ignition circuit but instead wired directly to an auxiliary battery which also powers other domestic camping stuff like the sink water pump, reading lights, etc. This battery is charged by the alternator but we rarely use this vehicle unless we are on a camping trip so it remains inactive for long periods of time, during which I loose the charge on the battery because of the draw from the radio even when the radio is off. &#xA;So my question is this, if I change the set up so the radio is wired through the ignition system will there be significantly less drain on the battery when the van experiences long periods of inactivity than I experience now by just turning off the radio?&#xA;Thanks for your thoughts.&#xA;Dave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19459" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T06:53:30.387" Title="Battery drain when car is inactive" Tags="|battery|audio|drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T04:03:46.447" Score="16" ViewCount="17299" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2003 350z cranks but won't start&lt;/strong&gt; VQ35DE /&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;FIXED&lt;/em&gt; *&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;partially&lt;/em&gt;   [ Stock / DC intake / Straight pipes ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(11/11/2016)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Cousin is a certified mechanic and took over the repair!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Car idle rough and After moving the front cable harness the car would shut off &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+Ground wire was loose&lt;/strong&gt; and would cause the car not to turn on. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced Throttle body / slightly a bit better performance ( brand new OEM )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+He also found a minor leak on the manifold and order a gasket to fix it (:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-He tested compression and got a low reading but the vehicle was cold&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However Car is still sluggish with the P0300 / I can smell unburned fuel in cabin&#xA;  Now I'm left with the P0300 code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I drove it around and it doesn't accelerate beyond 5-6k RPM's on full throttle =\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;= Last thing to do is re-test compression when the car is hot, otherwise it's bad coils since I ordered aftermarket ones, and are shorter than stock. If the compression is good, my cousin suggested to order performance coils.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 150k 2003 350z Car cranks won't start&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Engine: VQ35DE&lt;br&gt;&#xA;OBD2: P0335, P0300 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(salvage, back right bumper dented frame)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(10/10/2016)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BACK TO WHERE I STARTED AGAIN =\&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-I'm still getting P0300 (multiple random cylinder misfire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Car was working fine, however I started experiencing loss of power after several minutes and It smells like unburned fuel in the cabin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Took the car to (3 corner garage) nissan experts and after an hour of diagnosing they said the A/F are not reading correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Bought the 2 O2 oxygen upstream sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;-After installing them, THE CAR TURNS ON THEN DIES. when I try to turn on the car:&#xA;-1st time it starts then it idles hard and it shuts off after a few seconds&#xA;-2nd time it starts then dies right away (It seems that fuel gets cut off)&#xA;-3rd time it just cranks and it won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( I replaced the fuel pump and it's the same problem )  It does prime.&#xA;I also went back returned the old O2 sensors and nothing, same problem.&#xA;-I had a conversation with a staff member from the Nissan dealer and he said &quot;&lt;code&gt;if it was the NATS, it would only crank but not start at all.&lt;/code&gt;&quot; And I'm able to start the car the first time but it idles rough then it shuts right off.&#xA;I'm at a halt on this project =\ but I'm not giving up &gt;:D&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(9/10/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-All spark plugs are fouled with gas O_O WTF?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Checked injectors resistance and they're all at 17 Ω Ohms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(9/9/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Car engine performance has slowly decreased, it feels about 30% power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced cat with straight pipes (same power no improvement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced PCV Valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Checked All coils with multimeter @ 200k OhmsΩ\&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 1)+1,-3: 123.4 Ω / -1,+2: 1.5 Ω&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 3)+1,-3: 122.9 Ω / -1,+2: 1.5 Ω&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 5)+1,-3: 124.1 Ω / -1,+2: 1.4 Ω &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 2)+1,-3: 1 Ω / -1,+2: 1 Ω (faulty coil?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 4)+1,-3: 122.7 Ω / -1,+2: 1.4 Ω &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(coil 6)+1,-3: 122.3 Ω / -1,+2: 1.6 Ω &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Checked Engine compression @ 190 PSI ( all cylinders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Currently checking fuel injectors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(9/2/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced all coils and car idles better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7/30/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Got the car checked regarding the leak and found out the catalytic converters are bad and are holding back the car's performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-There is an oil leak near the catalytic converter and is causing fumes inside the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Starter went bad on the car, need replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced the starter and car turns on with the first crank :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7/21/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=I Read the EC Manual for this vehicles till 5am and in the troubleshooting process it recommend to wiggle/shake the cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;+&lt;strong&gt;I Moved the cables around an pushed the car a bit before attempting to turn it on. &lt;em&gt;(AND THE CAR STARTED UP!)&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;I was told that perhaps the Gas Pump is not reading gas correctly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm still trying to figure out if the movement of the cables might &#xA;of helped? By the cables shorting out and not causing the engine to turn on, Or the gas pump is not reading gas correctly and it just needed more gas Lol~. Since the car is salvaged and was rear ended it might of messed up the gas pump reading.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;-However I'm still getting low RPM fluctuations. I was also suggested to buy a SeaFoam and fill up the Tank for engine cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Now I'm getting P0300. So now I need to continue driving the car until i get further codes or the P0335 codes comes back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-And finally I need to fix exhaust leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7/20/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Checked for spark and Spark plugs do light up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=I Added more gasoline to the car just to make sure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Gas Pump Primes, We do hear it turning on&#xA;(My dad managed to turn on the car twice then it shut off; we attempted to start it up again and it only cranks. So I still think there is an electrical short going on here that wont allow the car to turn on =\&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7/17/2016)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;+Replaced the 2 camshaft sensors to test them with a new battery I just bought. and No results, &lt;strong&gt;Car keeps cranking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;= I went to the Nissan dealer and asked one of their technicians and they said it could be 1 out of the 3 things: Throttle body, Sensors, or Computer. So now I definitely think it's something electrical.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(7/2/2016)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- So before I continue to do other diagnoses I tested the the battery&#xA;   with a multimeter for certainty and I'm only getting around 10 volts when I'm&#xA;   suppose to be getting 12.6 volts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-The gauge inside my 350z also marks 10 volts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;=I decided to test for parasitic battery drain with a multimeter by disconnected the negative cable and I'm getting .56 ~ .80~ amps so nothing is really draining the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-= I might have to proceed with a replacement battery before I continue with other diagnostics&#xA;[ And thank you for your kind responses I hope to figure out this problem since it's a difficult one otherwise I will have to get it diagnosed by a pro shop =\ ]&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(6/30/16)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Replaced the Cranksaft sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=I charged the car with jumper cables from my other car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+After 2nd try the Car STARTED UP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=I had to maintain it at high RPM to keep it on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Car shut off at low RPM :(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Car wont start, it's having trouble now cranking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-The RPM Needle doesn't move when cranking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+OBD2 throws code: P0335 Again even though I replaced the crankshaft position sensor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the battery is not giving enough power to crank up the car&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Please help ;( I'm trying to fix this car so I can get some work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;( To do list: Try a different battery or Camshaft sensors?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;-Also the car is running rich because of an air leak since I can smell exhaust fumes when I'm on the road inside the cabin&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2003 350z cranks but won't start&lt;/strong&gt; VQ35DE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my short history:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flywheel and clutch installed 1 month ago&#xA;=Car worked fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;+Cranksensor was added&#xA;=Car worked fine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;-Car started to shut off while driving once in a while &lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=Autozone tested the battery and it's fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+Changed the spark plugs and Oil change&#xA;Haven't driven the car much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;=No problem starting up the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;i&gt;-Car started to shut off on neutral more often&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;i&gt;When turning on the car the RPMs go down to 500, Once in a while it fluctuates a little low then goes back to 500.&lt;/i&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;+I cleaned the MAF sensor with the special spray&#xA;=Car worked fine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(same day )-Noticed the PCV valve hose was broken from the back of the engine, so I connected it to the intake and car ran ok,&#xA;=Car started fine &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(same day )-Car Performance degraded after connecting that PCV hose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-Car shut off while driving, Won't start :( Only cranks.&#xA;= My father sprayed gasoline into the throttle body while i was trying to start it up, and nothing. It continues to crank.&#xA;Gas pump sounds like it primes, I have 1/4 of gas on the tank, all electric windows/sound system/car lights work fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked fuse box and they all look fine&#xA;= Machine codes none,&#xA;( I Noticed something must be draining the battery because I have to pass charge to the battery so the car gets 12 volts )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19460" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T01:47:16.537" LastActivityDate="2022-04-23T18:56:52.843" Title="350z cranks won't start" Tags="|engine|electrical|nissan|cranks-wont-run|350z|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-07-01T05:03:26.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get angled wrenches, with heads that are turned at a different angle to a standard wrench.&#xA;You can get wrenches that have curved shafts.&#xA;A crowsfoot wrench might be a possibility. &#xA;If you have access to an acetylene torch you can heat and bend a standard wrench so it will clear the obstruction.&#xA;You may be able to grind off part of the edge of the shaft of a wrench where it touches the clutch housing so you can turn it a little further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19462" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T05:03:26.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34966" CreationDate="2016-07-01T06:29:45.583" Score="14" ViewCount="4173" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L uses an 80 amp fp34 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.il/search?q=a2tb0191&amp;amp;client=ubuntu&amp;amp;channel=fs&amp;amp;biw=1301&amp;amp;bih=641&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiF3umd0dHNAhXsA8AKHbNTCgQQsAQIIA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A2TB0191 alternator&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/14V-Alternator-Voltage-Regulator-A866X35472-For-MAZDA-KIA-For-Alternator-OEM-A3TG1391-A2TB0091-A2TB0191-A2TB2391-LF5018300/32593199739.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.b0wj3j&amp;amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10037_10017_405_404_507_10032,searchweb201603_11&amp;amp;btsid=1a80a02b-9c28-49a5-8e1e-e40ba02e0e01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;internal voltage regulator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a little test where it I turned on the bright lights, AC, radio, rear defogger and opened the trunk so the light came on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At idle, my idle dropped from 750 to about 650, and the whole car was shaking.  I made the following measurements with a clamp meter and a voltmeter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12.34v at battery, 0.05 voltage drop between B+ and the positive battery terminal ( occasionally jumped to 0.1 ) 35amps at the alternator B+ terminal and -16 amps at the positive battery terminal ( i.e. the system was drawing 16 amps from the battery because the alternator couldn't keep up. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then had my wife raise the rpms to about 2300 and got 12.62 volts, with 58.7 amps at the alternator and -5.5 at the battery, meaning that it was still drawing from the battery due to the alternator's deficit.  There's no noise coming from the alternator and the belt seems tight enough and doesn't seem to be slipping at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, my 1.6L Nissan Almera which also has an 80 amp rated alternator had no problem putting out 57.7 amps @ 14.05 volts idling at 950 rpm without drawing anything from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems pretty obvious that there is a problem with the alternator.  What should I do now to determine exactly what the problem with the alternator is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ran across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/Attachment.html?attachmentId=717265&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some contradictory information&lt;/a&gt;.  Here is the tag on my alternator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odCix.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odCix.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternators with P-D  Field Control Unit&lt;/strong&gt; These types of Alternator do&#xA;  not have a traditional Regulators but instead have a field control&#xA;  Unit.  Mitsubishi &amp;amp; Hitachi Alternators with P-D Regulators require&#xA;  special testing, the voltage control &amp;amp;  warning lamp functions are in&#xA;  the vehicle PCM (Computer).&#xA;  * P Terminal is Stator Phase &amp;amp; is a direct connection to stator AC Volts.     This allows the PCM to Monitor Alternator Field.&#xA;  * D Terminal is Driver connected to Vehicle PCM (Computer), and is used to control the output of    the field control unit by varying&#xA;  base current on a transistor which in turn varies field current&#xA;  thereby    controlling Alternator output and voltage. These&#xA;  Alternators cannot be tested in the traditional manner    without&#xA;  dedicated testing equipment. Connecting battery voltage to the “D”&#xA;  terminal will destroy the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 3rd, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, together with the above info and what's in the 97 European WSM I was able to figure out what's going on I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eGBG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5eGBG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, the ECU is doing the voltage regulation, and if it's working correctly I should see a value close to 2 volts on the D pin when I turn on as many electrical loads as I can.  The above numbers are for 20*C, so since my engine was already hot my numbers can be expected to be a tad bit higher.  So I stuck a safety pin in the back of the connector and hooked my multimeter up to it.  Idling at 750 rpm with just the trunk light on I got 0.85 volts on the &lt;strong&gt;D pin&lt;/strong&gt;.  On the &lt;strong&gt;P pin&lt;/strong&gt; I saw about 3.99 volts.  Then I turned all the same loads I used when checking amperage and the &lt;strong&gt;D pin&lt;/strong&gt; went up to 2.2 volts, sometimes jumping momentarily to 2.5 volts.  The &lt;strong&gt;P pin&lt;/strong&gt; went down to 3.75 volts, and as I watched it was steadily dropping.  I assume this is because the alternator couldn't keep up, even though the ECU was basically full fielding it.  I then raised the rpms to about 2600 and saw the same thing on the D pin, but now the P pin was steady at about 3.99 volt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if I understand correctly, based on the P pin output of 4 volts at full field at 2600rpm, the alternator is only outputting about exactly half it's maximum output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does this sound like to you guys, the stator or the diodes in the rectifier?  I don't think it's the brushes because exactly half max output is too steady and neat of a number, but that's just kind of a hunch / guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit July 8th 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on the above I made an educated guess that it's the rectifier, so I ordered one a few days ago and hopefully it'll arrive in a week or two.  I couldn't find any parts for the Mitsubishi A2TB0191, however it seems like the A2TB0091 uses the same internal parts so that's what I ordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T20:11:25.747" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T13:41:42.677" Title="How to determine exactly what's wrong with my alternator?" Tags="|electrical|mazda|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32336" CreationDate="2016-07-01T06:53:30.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery will loose charge even if it has no loads connected. This happens due to the nature of the chemistry of lead acid type batteries. A fully charged battery will fully discharge in a few months. The older it is the faster it happens. Significant damage happens to a battery that is discharged while a charged battery has much less damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optimum solution to batteries that are not used is to connect a battery maintainer and leave it connected whenever the battery in not in use for more that couple of weeks. These are available for less than half the price of a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this solution is used it will not matter if the keep alive memory loads are left connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T06:53:30.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30388" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:00:58.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it seems that part of the reason the voltage didn't match is because I was using a very cheap multimeter.  I got a good Uni-T meter and with the engine off my cheap meter was showing 12.92v and the Uni-T was showing 12.74v.  This was after I'd been driving around a bit, so I'm sure there was still a bit of surface charge.  I checked again later and can pretty much chalk this up to an inaccurate reading by a cheap multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T08:47:48.477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T08:47:48.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33082" CreationDate="2016-07-01T10:06:50.987" Score="5" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a GF4A-EL on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L and strongly suspect the TSS is defective.  I can't find any sensors for my tranny, but I have read that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FN4A-EL&lt;/a&gt; is just an improved version of the GF4A-EL and was wondering if their turbine speed sensors are compatible, since there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/ford-4f27e-mazda-fn4a-el-input-speed-sensor-tss-original-equipment-xs4z-7m101ab/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allot of the former easily available&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor visually look identical and are top mounted in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 3, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ran across &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this diagnostic sheet&lt;/a&gt; for the TSS on the Mazda 3 which also uses the FN4A-EL transmission and it looks the same as for the GF4A-EL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Input/turbine speed sensor resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;250—600 ohms (ATF temperature: –40—160 °C {–40—320 °F})&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found the part numbers.  The one for the GF4A-EL is FW01-21-550 and it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSo2C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSo2C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one for the FN4A-EL is FN01-21-550 and it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk8IO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk8IO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the testing procedures, it looks like the two sensors are electrically identical, and they also look like they are physically identical except for that metal tab which is used for screwing them down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet that that metal tab can just be pulled off and rotated 90 degrees to turn a FN01-21-550 in a FW01-21-550.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering I can get the former for $14 shipped free from Hong Kong and the later I can only get from the dealership for about $100, I think I'll take the chance, and update this edit into an answer if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T15:59:45.100" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T16:18:49.833" Title="Can I use a FN4A-EL Turbine Speed Sensor on a GF4A-EL?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32334" CreationDate="2016-07-01T13:23:39.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds exactly like worn brake pads to me. Have you checked those recently? Brake pads actually have a wear tab on them like the one pictured below. This is designed to make noise (that chirping sound) before the brake pads are catastrophically low. The noise would be present almost always while driving as the tab is meant to be in constant contact with the brake rotors once the pads get low enough. I would definitely start by looking at the condition of your brake pads. While you're down there, if the pads look fine, then I would look for something stuck and rubbing against your rotors. Sometimes the rear shield behind the rotor will get bent and rub against it. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPSTX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPSTX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T13:23:39.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32349" CreationDate="2016-07-01T14:04:17.470" Score="10" ViewCount="2083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a US 2007 Yaris sedan.  I'm still on the original wheels and they've had a very rough life.  The ride is suffering for it and I'm looking for a new set of wheels and tires while trying to be frugal and DIY.  I'll get the tires at a local shop, but looking for wheels online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these on ebay, and the specs look right for my car.  I already have the stock 15x5.5&quot; steel wheels, so these should be about the same.  They are 15x6, with a center bore diameter of 72.6mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/331774482870&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/331774482870&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCCpS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCCpS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steel Rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then going on that wheel's specs of hub bore at 72mm, and another post I found on a yaris forum that listed the Yaris hub bore at 54.1mm, I would need these hub rings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/361355856077&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/361355856077&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qcj82.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qcj82.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hub Centering Rings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I have all this correct, and that these components would fit my car.  Please let me know if I've missed anything, or if I am doing this wrong.  This is my first time buying wheels.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19465" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T15:20:04.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T18:25:32.783" Title="Correct fitment of wheels using hubcentric rings" Tags="|wheels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T14:44:24.593" Score="3" ViewCount="27320" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is an Activa 3G.  It is a one month old bike. I use the bike only once in 2-3 days or sometimes alternate days. So it will be in an unmoved condition for 2-3 days wholly and sometimes 1 day completely. When I try to start it, it will not start. Even after multiple tries. It never starts up. I apply the choke and try it. With the choke, after 5-7 tries, it is getting started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I would like to know whether the problem is with any part of the engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I unable to start the engine even with multiple attempts without applying the choke? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate if you could share me your valuable views...Thanks in advance ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19467" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T18:40:52.793" LastActivityDate="2021-08-13T12:03:33.053" Title="Bike is not starting after 1-2 days of sitting idle" Tags="|starting|scooter|activa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32347" CreationDate="2016-07-01T15:08:22.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always need to apply the choke when starting a cold engine.  Until the engine is at operating temperature, it needs to run a bit rich to run properly.  The choke allow the engine to run rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-7 tries does sound a bit much.  Is there a way of priming the engine to ensure fuel is getting into there before cranking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T15:08:22.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2016-07-01T15:16:05.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hub-rings?  If those rims have acorn shaped lug nuts, you don't need hub-rings.  The acorn nuts are what keeps the wheel aligned. When I say acorn nuts, I'm talking about these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYEvE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YYEvE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Acorn Lug Nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom of the lug nut is shaped like a cone. And those cones on the lugnuts match up to cup shaped depression on the wheel.  The cups &amp;amp; cones in this design are what keep the wheel centered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; The OP wheel link indicates Lug Nut Seat Style Conical seat - 60 degree which indicates the above type of lug nuts are required with that wheel.  Hub-rings may still be used and aid in lining up the studs, but are not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lugnuts have a flat washer facing the wheel, then the hub ring is super important.  These are flat washer lugnuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OOayc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OOayc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flat washer lugnuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These lugnuts keep the wheel tight, but the hub center ring is what keeps the wheel centered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of lug nuts do you have? (It looks like the photo on the wheels are designed for acorn lug nuts, but I'm not positive.)  If you must, remove one lug nut to be sure what type you have.  Again, if you have acorn lug nuts, don't waste money on hub center ring. You don't need it.  And obviously with the acorn cup/cone design, we're assuming the center hole in the rim is larger than the bearing protrusion on your brake rotors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T18:25:32.783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T18:25:32.783" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2016-07-01T15:23:44.713" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one other figure you need to take into consideration; offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The offset is the measure of how far pushed out or in the centre point of the wheel (that bolts to the hub) is when compared to the centre of the wheel (between where the beads of the tyre sit).  If the offset is wrong, you can find that the wheels can foul your suspension, brakes or wheel arches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T15:23:44.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32272" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:01:06.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are quite a few things that can effect your bike in this way&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to truly identify the issue.  Before you tear down your carburetor you may want to engage in some troubleshooting prior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You said&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When ever I am driving in low RPM, I feel like the fuel is cut off in short sharp intervals. And even with the Idle RPM adjuster screw cranked up to the max my idle RPM is very low that my engine turns off when I close the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be your carburetor.  It could be ignition related and that may not be the root cause either.  These types of issues can crop up with a bad battery OR a failed/failing rectifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a multimeter you can perform some simple tests to ensure that your charging system and rectifier are in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23923/9164&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rectifier and stator test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; first.  It's simple and quick.  As well, test your battery under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a post that can give insight regarding your carburetor and if it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/23937/9164&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;experiencing a rich or lean condition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T19:01:06.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:14:03.973" Score="10" ViewCount="4051" Body="&lt;p&gt;The check engine light came on. Scoped it and the engine code P2647 came up. Changed the oil pressure switch and cleaned the screen. Check engine light came on again. Scoped it again and engine code P2646 showed up, so the entire solenoid was replaced. Check engine light came on again with same P2646 plus P0661. P0661 was a code that came up a year ago whereby the intake manifold solenoid was replaced. Now I'm unable to clear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a mechanic who said that I have a buildup of sludge and the only way to remedy this was to rebuild/clean the engine. I religiously change my oil every 3000 miles so I was shocked at this diagnosis and that those that change my oil would not see this buildup. He warned against cleaners...and offered to buy my car cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone validate this claim that my engine requires a rebuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any additional thoughts related to my issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for remedies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19472" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T20:45:46.910" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T03:34:56.437" Title="2006 Honda CRV with engine sludge issue" Tags="|engine|honda|crv|sludge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32430" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:57:22.447" Score="7" ViewCount="3221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got new ceramic brake pads and rotors on my 2LS 2013 Chevrolet Camaro less than a month ago and I've put less than 500 miles on them. However, recently I've noticed that the rear brake rotors are significantly hotter than the front after driving, just based off of the heat radiating from them. In addition, I can smell a bit of an off smell (can't really describe it) from my vehicle, specifically coming from the rear end. I did a quick test and misted some water on the rear rotors and the water instantly &quot;puffs&quot; and evaporates. With the front rotors the water didn't even make a &quot;puff&quot; noise when misted. This was performed after driving about 20 minutes in normal traffic with 2 - 3 stops along the way (traffic lights, stop signs, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the original comments from the brake shop where I had this done was that the brakes had become partially engaged while driving due to the rust on the brake rotors which was a partial source of the need for the replacement. As a result, the factory brake pads had worn down the the point of flaking and the rotors had become severely worn / warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have assumed that braking, regardless of the drivetrain, applies equal braking to all wheels so the rotors should be equally heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for a RWD vehicle or should I take it back to the brake shop to have this looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6771" LastEditorUserId="6771" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T23:45:35.290" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T15:48:55.387" Title="Should the rear brakes get hotter than the front in a RWD vehicle?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|overheating|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32347" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:58:00.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue of not getting started means that there may be a problem with self-start mechanism or battery (in most cases since it is not an old vehicle). Unless you are not having a very cold day, always apply Choke. If not, then observe the sound from Engine that Self Starter usually makes while you Crank start the engine. If it is feeble or unusual, then it may be that battery is not getting charged enough or it is getting discharged fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to blame on Self Starer or on battery only if you are easily able to kick start and cannot do it with battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T19:58:00.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T00:52:52.383" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 02 trailblazer has a loud vibration in front end and it gets worse when air conditioner is on. Took it to a garage and they just said it's in the engine, I don't want them to tear into my engine on a fishing expedition. Runs good, uses no oil, everything works on it. I need help, any suggestion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19475" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T11:22:09.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T11:22:09.420" Title="Front end vibration" Tags="|chevrolet|vibration|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32362" CreationDate="2016-07-02T01:00:40.127" Score="6" ViewCount="58880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to do a DIY brake job on my car and am trying to sort out how to lube everything.  I found this helpful list of places to lube: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6708/what-brake-components-need-to-be-lubricated&quot;&gt;What brake components need to be lubricated?&lt;/a&gt; but it does not mention what type of lubes to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my car, the manual says to use silicone grease on the pins.  After reading around online, it seems like every synthetic grease I find has stories about rubber bits swelling.  Is the general consensus to use real silicone on the slider pins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, anything metal to metal seems more lenient.  Moly is popular, and some people use anti-sieze.  I saw warnings against anti-seize getting dusty, and nothing really against moly.  Is something with molybdenum generally recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19469" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T11:46:31.763" Title="What type of Brake Lube to use" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|lubrication|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31909" CreationDate="2016-07-02T01:21:00.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend with an 02 Accord that has the exact same problem.  He's been changing front rotors (and pads) every 12-18 months as far back as I can remember - due to warping.  Our take on this issue - brake rotors on this year Accord are too small for the weight of the car. In the late 90's and early 2000's, car manufacturers were all trying to get gas mileage up.  Any weight they could skimp on they would - including brake rotors.  These rotors get hot and warp as a result of normal driving.  Don't know of any other solution but to keep exchanging them during the warranty period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19431" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:21:00.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T01:39:17.287" Score="4" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Chrysler Town&amp;amp;Country mini-van (Limited model)&#xA;145,000 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When coming to a stop, my van is stalling. As soon as I let up on the gas to begin to slow down in order to stop, the engine begins running very rough.  However, it starts right back up after stalling and seems to run okay except when decelerating.  It began doing this out-of-the-blue one day, and by the end of the same day the engine light had come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chrysler dealership has now had my vehicle for over a week with no results (mostly because they haven't even been working on it, but that's another issue).  They say the code readout is inconclusive, and seem to be concentrating on the &quot;sensor harness.&quot;  But, we have lost all confidence in anything they say and are ready to just go get my van and find real mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help, ideas, suggestions would be much appreciated! Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T04:54:59.597" Title="engine stalling when coming to a stop" Tags="|chrysler|town-and-country|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32080" CreationDate="2016-07-02T03:30:27.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortly after I posted this, after starting the car again in the heat and having the airbag warning light come on again, the SRS warning light came on, then the security warning light came on, several other lights came on, and then the car started to lurch and stall.  Suspecting a power issue, I quickly turned off the A/C, thinking reducing the power load might at least get me home.  Sure enough, the instant I turned the A/C off, most of the warning lights went off and the engine started running normally.  The next morning, I was lucky enough to be able to get to the repair shop, where I explained the issues I'd been having.  They tested the A/C and the alternator and found that the alternator wasn't putting out the proper amount of power.  They replaced the alternator.  It's been several days now and none of the warning lights have come back on again.  So, it appears that the airbag sensors are just more sensitive to voltage/current issues than other sensors (possibly due to the length/resistance of the wires and their position in the hot cabin and possibly exacerbated by poor connectors).  So, anyone having this problem-check your alternator first, especially if you get multiple codes.  It could save you some cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastEditorUserId="14260" LastEditDate="2019-02-04T13:28:33.350" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T13:28:33.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T03:47:51.537" Score="5" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a track, bigger tires have more contact therefore more traction. However, it comes at a cost of more unsprung weight. Therefore, the 0-60 time is slower as tested by Car And Driver. This was tested in a 2.5L engine with about 200 horsepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, if say, a 5.0L engine with 400 horsepower, would the 0-60 still be slower with bigger tires? I have this question because traction control limits power to prevent slipping. Bigger tires have more points of contact therefore more traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19476" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T22:52:56.540" Title="Bigger/smaller tires" Tags="|acceleration|traction-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32357" CreationDate="2016-07-02T04:21:07.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two lubes are needed to properly lubricate caliper type brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone is used on the slider pins and anything that touches rubber. A generous amount that completely coats the pin, hole wall and rubber expansion boot is needed. Be sure to coat the boot lips that fit in the grooves that hold them in place, this act as a sealant. This lube will not swell rubber parts and does not dissolve in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different, grease based, lubricant is used on all parts of the brake pad that touch the caliper. A thin even coat is applied to the pad ends and backing side in the areas where the piston or caliper body touch the pads. It is also advised to apply to apply a thin coat the shims on the caliper bracket where the pads ends will slide. This has two purposes. It allows the pads to move freely in the bracket which reduces both wear and noise. It also inhibits corrosion which can cause the pads to bind thus increasing noise and wear.  We use this product; others are available. It must be a high temperature tolerant formula. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2vQd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2vQd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake Pad Lube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pad lubrication is often omitted to the detriment of brake life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="11876" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T16:01:03.030" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T16:01:03.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32361" CreationDate="2016-07-02T04:43:36.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wider tires are only a benefit if you have been running out of traction. If you have been running out of traction, there are tires that offer an increased contact patch with the same size, like slick tires, or you can move to a wider tire. I always recommend to maintain the same circumference using a tire sizing app so that the odometer and speedometer still read correctly. Having the wrong circumference tire could also cause issues with some traction control systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T04:43:36.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32359" CreationDate="2016-07-02T04:54:59.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect your Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. It's job is to feed enough air to the engine when you take your foot of the throttle. This is a 15 year old engine we are talking about, the valve may be too dirty to operate or may have simply broken. You may want to try one from the junkyard just for diagnosis purposes, and you should be able to do this yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This valve is less than $10 at the junkyard, and removing it is very easy. You will most likely need to only loosen the metal rings holding it in place, either with a flat-blade screw driver or a pair of pliers, depending what type of metal rings are there. Then disconnect the electrical connector and yank the plastic or rubber hoses off. Don't worry, you can't break anything except the electrical connector, and they are pretty tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this fixes your issue, you may continue running the junkyard IAC valve (I would), or splurge for a new one at an auto parts store, now that you know how it comes off and goes back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T04:54:59.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31833" CreationDate="2016-07-02T14:10:51.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start the truck pour a half cup of Marvel Mystery Oil right down the carburator a little at a time. Do not let the truck stall. It will smoke a good rate. Once that smoke clears a bit take it for a nice ride. Old school mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19486" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T14:10:51.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T14:33:43.827" Score="2" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2000 VW Passat has no power and faint white smoke. Once I turn off the vehicle, the smoke becomes greater for a minute or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19489" LastEditorUserId="401" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T18:16:29.990" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T10:32:52.127" Title="White smoke from Passat" Tags="|engine|vw|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-09-01T20:48:46.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32015" CreationDate="2016-07-02T14:48:49.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have him change the fuel filter. These get dirty and need changing. Very easy and cheap if it's external. Some are inside the tank. A dirty filter can restrict fuel flow. If you have high miles this could be the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19486" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T14:48:49.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T15:38:15.377" Score="5" ViewCount="5548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Infiniti G35 6MT coupe.  Nissan VQ35DE engine with a bit over 156,000 KMs (about 96,000 miles).  Since I bought it, I've noticed some oil consumption at a rate of about a litre every 4,000 KMs (about a quart every 2,400 miles).  There's no smoke of any kind from the exhaust or anywhere else, there are no puddles on the floor.  I changed the PCV valve about 200KMs ago, that doesn't seem to have made any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put in Mobil1 5w30 synthetic on the first change, changed to Castrol Edge 0w30 A3/B4 at my most recent OCI (supposedly a &quot;heavier&quot; 30).  I plan to try either a high mileage full synthetic or 40 weight synthetic next.  I'm debating whether it's worthwhile to just empty my oil with only 1000KMs on it and fill with one of those replacements now or wait until my next OCI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, the engine runs &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt;.  No sputtering, no rough idling, no power loss, no codes, no dash lights, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some relevant information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measurement Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I take and record oil measurements, the car is parked the same spot and the engine is fully cooled (ie.: &gt;= 12 hours) each time.  I use a ruler to measure the millimeters between the H mark and the oil level on the dipstick.  This is the officially recommended measurement procedure according to Nissan's TSB on the later VQ35HR models to gauge oil consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Driving Habits and Environment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't buy a 6-speed manual coupe to drive it like a grandma to the shops, so yes, it gets a bit of a workout.  But I'm always sure to let it get up to temperature and be there for at least a few minutes before any of that, and I tend to keep it under 5,000 RPM, rarely up the redline (~7000 RPM).  Otherwise, it's light throttle and under 2500 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does get winter driven (Canadian winters), but it has a block heater I generally keep at low RPMs in winter because of the extended warm-up time.  Winter time also involves a lot more idling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously: what else can I try to reduce the consumption rate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As long as regularly ensure a correct oil level by checking and filling it when needed, how harmful is it to the engine and how does it affect longevity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16346" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T17:06:20.850" Title="Diagnosing oil consumption on Nissan VQ35DE (350z / G35)" Tags="|oil|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1012" CreationDate="2016-07-02T15:57:37.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look, I agree with the tyre rack article to a certain extent. But let's all use a little common sense. Using their example (as I do) in rotating my full size spare on my Wrangler. Even when I swap out at every tyre rotation the act of not using 1 tyre for that set of 5000 miles creates a tyre circumference difference of about 1/8&quot; of an inch. So by there example, I could not ever rotate that tyre back on to my driveline b/c of the 4 less rotations per mile that larger tyre would roll. Not to mention that all roads/ highways are angled or crowned to allow water to be diverted off so that creates a difference in rotation numbers as well. I think the moral is keep it close, if your pushing anything more than an 1/8 or more I wouldn't do it. But car components have tollerence allotments so it can take it. Just use common sense &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19490" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T15:57:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T20:32:19.823" Score="5" ViewCount="54976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 E39 520i. One of the cylinders has stopped working (or misfiring) and I am hoping it is because no spark is generated. I am very new to engines so bare with me please. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt; The root of this problem can be either a bad ignition coil or a bad spark plug, right? How do I know which one needs to be replaced, or do I replace both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16734" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T21:09:15.647" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T10:06:49.037" Title="How to know if the spark plug or the ignition coil needs to be replaced" Tags="|bmw|sparkplugs|misfire|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32375" CreationDate="2016-07-02T21:34:09.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To test the coil&lt;/strong&gt;, as you said there's only one cylinder that isn't working, just switch the coils of two cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the spark plugs&lt;/strong&gt;, again you'll just switch two if you want to test one against the other, however unless the spark plugs just got replaced, I would generally replace them anyways, as it's so infrequent that you get in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T21:58:27.703" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T21:58:27.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T22:10:49.927" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having an issue where when I brake I notice a clicking noise. Seems to happen at any speed.. Last night on my way home from work at around 11pm I noticed that when it clicks both my AC and headlights seem to react to the clicking. My AC blower kind of pulses as it clicks and my headlights dim with each click. Could this be a simple improperly installed brake like I've seen in similar questions or could it be electrical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a '99 Chevy Monte Carlo with the 3.1L V6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19496" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:32:37.707" Title="Clicking when I brake..?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|monte-carlo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32361" CreationDate="2016-07-02T22:52:56.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact patch is always the same size no matter what size the tire is and can be calculated by dividing vehicle weight by tire pressure.   Going to a taller tire or a wider tire changes the shape of the contact patch, but not the area.  If the tire has the same composition but a different physical size, it will still have the same coefficient of friction. External forces to the tire will change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsprung weight makes it more difficult for the suspension to keep the tire equally planted during motion because of inertia.  The less inertia, the easier it is to keep that tire planted when the tire moves in relation to the road surface.  Even tiny road imperfections will cause rebound and partially unload a tire.  An unloaded tire (such as one moving up after a bump) will have a lower coefficient of friction, and thus be able to handle less power transmitted though it to the road before slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of unsprung weight, the direction of the forces acting on the tire, and the suspension will change the coefficient of friction between the tire and the road surface.  Changing the tire compound (such as going to a slick) will also have a large effect on the coefficient of friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the suspension is tuned for a specific unsprung weight.  Changing the weight outside of that range without a corresponding suspension change will generally have negative consequences.  If too heavy, the shock will have trouble retarding the motion of the unsprung weight; in severe instances the tire will leave the ground on a rebound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General rule of thumb is that 1 pound in unsprung weight equals 2 pounds in vehicle weight.  So if you add 10 pounds of larger tire, it is effectively the same as adding 20 pounds of weight to the vehicle.  The reason for that is because you are accelerating that weight twice.  First, it is part of the car, so it must accelerate with the vehicle.  Second, it has to be accelerated on its own rotation at a speed equal to the vehicle speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thing about 'larger' is that 'larger' can mean several things.  Of note is that if the tire gets larger in diameter, it effectually changes the gear ratio to a higher numerical ratio.  An example would be your 3.73 rear axle effectively being a 3.55.  Generally, this will further slow the 0 to 60 time because you lose mechanical advantage except in rare cases, such as a shift occurring just before 60.  In those cases, it may be better time-wise to delay the shift until just after 60 so that the shift time is not included within the 0-60 time.  That's a pretty rare case, and I only include it for completeness sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14478" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T22:52:56.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T00:46:49.573" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to remove overspray clear coat from a soft top? Some areas are very faint and 'light' and some areas are embedded. Should I use a solvent? There really isn't much info in this area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19498" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T06:40:37.630" Title="Removing clear coat from a soft top." Tags="|paint-clearcoat|soft-top|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32396" CreationDate="2016-07-03T01:46:43.323" Score="3" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mid 70's Chevy truck bench seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers side spring is broken at the 90 degree CURVED portion of the spring and don't have any welding tools:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mk9h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mk9h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfW2K3_Hd18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, he uses cable clamps (Ferrules) to re-connect broken springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't see how it would work on the 90 degree curve (unless there are curved ferrules) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22163&amp;amp;sid=b4e3b72559a6ed89fcc345a3b262159c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, he used fuel lines to connect the springs at the curves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this recommended and will it hold solid ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, after the spring is fixed, is there a way to firm up the entire length of the elevated spring that runs along the drivers side of the bench (as the passenger side feels firmer in general):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LExEq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LExEq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="10221" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T18:27:22.297" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T18:27:22.297" Title="Bench spring broken at 90' curve" Tags="|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3176" CreationDate="2016-07-03T04:40:45.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 points in the engine's cycle when the piston is at TDC: The transition between compression/combustion, and the transition between exhaust/intake. The first one is the TDC you're looking for when concerning ignition timing. The #1 piston will be at the top of the cylinder and your crankshaft timing mark will be aligned to the 0 witness mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the distributer body from the engine before rotating your engine's alignment to TDC. Then, carefully reinsert the distributor so that its spark transfer blade is pointed directly at the #1 port when bolted down. Install plug wires according to proper firing sequence. Crank, and use a timing light to advance your ignition timing as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your crankshaft and camshaft(s) are properly timed to each other via the belt or chain system, the above process will serve you well for all gasoline cylinder engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19501" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T04:40:45.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32381" CreationDate="2016-07-03T06:40:37.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &quot;rubbing alcohol,&quot; aka isopropyl alcohol. Get it from the drugstore or the pharmacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T06:40:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22275" CreationDate="2016-07-03T09:55:38.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I arrived at a job yesterday to colect a car,which turned out to be auto.engine was running but overheating on load,I left motor running with transmission in neutral and towed it at 60mph for nearly 200 miles stopping frequently to check temps etc and had no problems whatsoever.recovered car was a petrol peugeot 206,other cars may give problems but this one was fine with it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19502" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T09:55:38.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32369" CreationDate="2016-07-03T10:04:32.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;White smoke from a diesel is normally an indication that combustion isn't reaching full temperature, but I'm confused that it's coming from the centre of the car,with the engine running is there full flow coming from the tail pipe of the exhaust ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19502" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T10:04:32.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32375" CreationDate="2016-07-03T10:06:49.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to test a spark plug in home conditions is to remove all plugs, put them in coils, put the spark plug (metal part, thread) on a engine metal part (earth), and turn a key, or better to ask someone to turn it. And see a beautiful blue spark in every plug. If there is any missing spark, put any other plug in that coil, so you can figure out if it is a spark plug or coil..&#xA; Sometimes spark plugs might give you a spark when removed, but won't give it in the engine. This is why the ideal way would be to test them under 12 bar pressure. But that would cost more than a new spark plug. &#xA; I have a 100% standard car, and I love high revs, so when I notice any misfire I just replace all the spark plugs. If you don't do it the disease goes into a coil and lead. After that one cylinder stops working, your Lambda sensor reads rich Air/Fuel ratio, because 1 cylinder does nothing, corrects the fuel injection, gives lean mixture, the rest of cylinders have higher load because one is missing and slowing them down, and they receive a deadly dose of fuel and air mix, and if you are not in limp mode or just drive slowly, you melt your pistons. This is the worst scenario in 1 faulty spark plug..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T10:06:49.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2016-07-03T11:34:34.403" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;recall issue this is best for honda to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19504" LastEditorUserId="19504" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T11:53:45.267" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:53:45.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31909" CreationDate="2016-07-03T13:32:10.630" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they replace the rotors with chinese made rotors, they tend to warp more easily. The steel quality from China is not as good as compared to steel harvested from the US. If you insist on using the subpar quality rotors, when you come to a complete stop after heavy braking, use your e-brake to hold you in place as the clamping force of the pads on the hot rotor is the primary cause of warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15848" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T13:32:10.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T13:40:33.270" Score="3" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on my  honda ridgeline  2006 vtec 3.5 v6 and need help.&#xA;I marked the pulleys but did not mark the old belt the camsaft in the back spinned on me  twice the first time put the cam back to tdc ccw put the belt on again saw that the front cam went back 1 space and the back cam 2 spaces back wards so took off the belt off again and tried to put cam forward 2 spaces but this time it spinned again is the timing on this off now or is everything ok and just put the timing marks at there tdc mark and everything is ok to reinstall the timing belt . changing the whole kit except for the seals &#xA;Thanks Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19507" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T12:28:59.610" Title="timing belt and camsaft problems vtec 3.5 v6 honda ridgeline" Tags="|honda|ridgeline|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32391" CreationDate="2016-07-03T13:53:45.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the marks on the camshafts and crank line up it's fine. Make sure you have enough slack on the tension side of the belt to prevent spinning. It also helps to install the tensioner after you have the belt in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure to spin the crankshaft two revolutions by hand and recheck your marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T13:53:45.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T15:41:04.787" Score="1" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;We vacuumed the car with a lighter-connected car vacuum cleaner- all of a sudden wipers and dash light went grazy- unplugged vacuum cleaner but now although dash lights come on- car wont start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19509" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T15:42:19.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T15:42:19.550" Title="FORD FIESTA 1.4 YEAR MODEL 2013" Tags="|ford|starting|electronics|fiesta|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T15:50:58.223" Score="5" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriends car, along with another one in the same parking lot were broken into last night. They took her radio surprisingly without damaging the dash. From the neighbor's car they stole ID's and gift cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's has my blood boiling and I know most thieves can disarm modern alarm systems these days. I was thinking of making something that would cause panic and make them bail before being able to steal anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my ideas is installing a set of super bright lights tucked behind the top part of the backseat where it meets the back window panel. Rig it to the some light switch that activates when the door is open and have the lights strobe incredibly fast and bright. Maybe even activate an annoying sounding horn. It could be turned on and off in the trunk and easily switched on when need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on circuits and such to accomplish this? Thinking of using a separate power source as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16330" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T17:10:23.477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T16:04:48.170" Title="I hate thieves - Ideas on DIY deterrents" Tags="|electrical|diy|alarm|theft-prevention|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32382" CreationDate="2016-07-03T16:18:06.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I realize this is on a curve, I like the idea of using a ferrule to clamp them into place together. I think the two ends are long enough to accept the ferrule with it keeping them in place. It really doesn't matter if they line up perfectly, the idea is to keep them together so there is mutual support between the two ends. The ferrule should do the job for you. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gb015.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gb015.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get these in many different sizes and they can be found at just about any hardware store, including the big box stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to use it is just insert the two ends, one into each end of the ferrule, then using a pair of Vice Grips, clamp it down. Once it is clamped, it's secure and shouldn't come apart. Just ensure you get the ends of the springs and wedged into the ferrule the best you can and you should be golden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea came from &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/nfW2K3_Hd18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; in case you'd like to see exactly what I'm talking about. You'll see the springs he's doing in this video are curved, so should not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel the two ends won't come together correctly, try cutting the two sharp ends off, then bending an angle in the spring a ways back, keeping the flat parts of the spring in the same plane. Bring the two ends together and then attach the ferrule. Again, the real thing here is for the two ends to provide mutual support to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T16:18:06.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32400" CreationDate="2016-07-03T16:19:43.177" Score="8" ViewCount="5627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a VW Jetta and have pulled one of the suspension ball joints to replace a drive shaft. The three bolts holding the ball joint to the lower control arm are marked in the Bentley service manual as &quot;always replace.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the videos and online instructions that I've found for replacing the drive shaft there is no mention of replacing the bolts (they tend to wrap up with &quot;put it all back together and torque to spec&quot; or something similar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing the ball joint, the alignment needs to be checked/re-set, so one question I have is would I expect the alignment shop to also replace those bolts so that its not necessary or economical to replace the bolts before alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other question I'd love an answer to is why are the bolts &quot;always replace.&quot; Does the torquing process (20 Nm + 90º) weaken the bolt, or is it not reproducible? Or something else altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T19:22:04.527" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:25:38.750" Title="&quot;Always Replace&quot; (torque-to-yield) Bolts" Tags="|vw|suspension|torque|fastener|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T16:26:46.350" Score="1" ViewCount="2746" Body="&lt;p&gt;i fitted a reverse camera to my Mercedes ml 300 2009 when engine is off the screen is nice and clear but when i stat the car up the picture from camera keeps flickering,the positive for the camera is via reverse light any one knows how to rectify it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19511" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T16:44:52.313" Title="flickering screen when in reverse with engine on" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32397" CreationDate="2016-07-03T16:52:49.810" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell you directly if the bolts you are using are Torque to Yield (TTY or T2Y) bolts, but if Bently says to replace them, you bet I'd do it. What are three bolts in comparison to the well being of your family and yourself, not to mention those around you should any of these bolts fail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for T2Y bolts, here is what &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.felpro-only.com/blog/proper-installation-use-t-t-y-bolts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fel-Pro says about them&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;T-T-Y head bolts are engineered to stretch within a controlled yield zone. Once they reach this zone, they are designed to spring back to provide a more precise level of clamping force. This stretches the bolts into their elastic range, and in some cases, the stretching approaches the bolts’ elastic limit, permanently stretching it. Once the yield zone is reached, the clamping force will be more consistent. Getting the to the precise yield zone (for maximum clamping force) is accomplished by tightening bolts to a certain torque spec, then turning the bolts an additional number of degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since T-T-Y bolts are designed to stretch, reusing them can cause improper or uneven torque and clamping force. Stretched bolts can damage threads in the engine, especially on aluminum blocks, and since the bolts are weakened, they may break if retorqued. You should &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; replace the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet another paragraph:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is very important to follow the proper torquing sequence and specifications when installing T-T-Y head bolts. Always clean the threads where the bolts pass through, any thread damage, corrosion or rust will create excessive friction giving you a false torque reading, robbing you of valuable clamping force. Using engine oil, lightly oil the threads and under the heads/washers on T-T-Y bolts unless otherwise specified by the vehicle service manual. Clean, oiled threads prevent binding, allowing for accurate and consistent torquing. Be careful not to over-oil the bolts, especially if they are threading into a blind hole. Too much oil will hydrolock the bolt and give false torque readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T16:25:38.750" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:25:38.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T17:09:59.450" Score="5" ViewCount="10921" Body="&lt;p&gt;We haven't driven this car much in the last month, so it's been sitting in our back yard. Yesterday we tried to start it up, but it is making a clicking sound while turning the key in the ignition, and it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a new battery, thinking that would fix the problem, but it still makes the same sound. I then thought of the terminal ends that connect to the battery so we replaced one because it wasn't gripping; it would just slip off with very little pressure. However, even after doing that, it still won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19513" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T19:11:00.573" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T04:54:08.787" Title="Clicking sound when trying to start" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|solenoid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32412" CreationDate="2016-07-03T19:26:30.013" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a &quot;generic&quot; torque-to-yield (TTY) bolt or if they are application specific and have to be sourced through the dealer/manufacturer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when a car is &quot;obsolete&quot; is there a way to find TTY bolts once the maker no longer supports the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T22:32:48.950" Title="Sources of Torque-To-Yield bolts?" Tags="|restoration|fastener|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32408" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:25:23.663" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to buy a pre-owned hatch back automatic transmission car. What are the things which I should check before making the deal? Also should I go to the Company owned showroom and ask them to give me a report of the car health?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user19517" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T22:20:14.140" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T22:20:14.140" Title="Things to check before getting a second hand car" Tags="|automatic-transmission|suzuki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-04T11:45:00.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:30:44.153" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Subaru Forester X Limited AT 2000cc 2AB 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing belt requires replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if the Gates TCK304 Timing Belt Component Kit, fits my Subaru?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19518" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T21:10:23.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T03:05:00.210" Title="Subaru Forester - Timing Belt" Tags="|subaru|timing-belt|forester|timing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32406" CreationDate="2016-07-03T20:38:45.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most automotive shops can do a full inspection for $100-$140, have one done before you buy the car. If you are checking the car yourself, the main things you need to worry about are the engine (compression test, $15 tool), the transmission (rough shifts while driving), is the car driving straight on a flat road (alignment), is the AC blowing cold air (turn it on and wait a few minutes), is the battery holding a decent charge (12.6V with the car off, $15 multimeter set to 20VDC with the probes at the battery terminals), is the alternator providing a charge (14V with the car on and all accessories off, at least 13V with headlights, heater and rear defrost on, same tool and procedure as the battery test, yes you test the alternator by measuring the battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the things that could cause the car to break down unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T20:38:45.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32410" CreationDate="2016-07-03T21:16:30.867" Score="4" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I need to turn a bolt to 50 ft-lb with a beam torque wrench, and I turn it until the needle points to 20, then I need to stop applying pressure for some reason.  Do I just apply another 30 ft-lb the next time?  Or do I still need to go to 50? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10663" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T21:32:37.050" Title="Is each turn with a beam torque wrench additive?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32409" CreationDate="2016-07-03T21:32:37.050" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that would be possible, every 3-year old could fasten the bolt. He just has to try 100 times with 0.5lb-ft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to apply the full 50lb-ft, regardless of the torque applied before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T21:32:37.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32406" CreationDate="2016-07-03T22:03:08.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to tlhIngan's answer; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the VIN number of the car you're looking at, and get the vehicle history report. Compare it with anything the owner tells you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find out how long the previous owner has had the car - longer is better, and if they've owned it less than 6 months, be even more thorough on your checks - they may be trying to offload a lemon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the local area that your buying the car from, and the people you're buying from. if you don't feel comfortable, walk away. Honest people sell honest cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel confident checking the mechanicals, ask for an inspection to be made. At least, get an MOT / Safety Inspection done before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T22:03:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32404" CreationDate="2016-07-03T22:32:48.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TTY bolts need to be specific to the application, but don't need to be sourced through the dealership. Fel-Pro makes a lot of bolts which replace the stock bolts in a TTY application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Usually&lt;/em&gt; the aftermarket picks up the slack for fasteners. If not, then you'd have to go back to the dealership. If they don't have any, you can got to an alternative source and get regular (non-TTY) bolts, which may be problematic or may work just fine. That's sort of a crap shoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T22:32:48.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T22:46:38.707" Score="7" ViewCount="42294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my Mitsubishi lancer 2004 (silver) that was painted last year.  Today I bought a polishing compound named &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abro.com/pc-310.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.abro.com/pc-310.html&lt;/a&gt;  . I put a small amount of the polish on a cotton cloth, and using my hands I applied the polish to my entire car, area by area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that this would protect my car paint from sun, dust, rain , etc., but it seems I should have applied wax rather than polishing compound.  Unfortunately I should have read more before buying the product. Can anyone advice if applying a polishing compound can ruin my car paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I read the instruction on the product, I noticed that it mentioned this polishing compound is not recommended for clear coat finishes, rubber surfaces, and plastic term.&#xA;Can anyone advise on this please? It seems the product I used is some sort of abrasive , but I am not sure how serious the damage can be in polishing my car like I did, and I don't know whether there's a way to fix any damage that could happen. Some online articles  said that applying a good polishing compound product (like the one i used) on a good paint (my car was painted last year) is not a big problem - can anyone advice if I did any damage to my car paint by applying the polishing compound? If the answer is yes then how serious is the damage, and how could I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19520" LastEditorUserId="19520" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T01:00:39.967" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T17:49:28.603" Title="Can polishing compound ruin my car's paint job?" Tags="|maintenance|paint|body|paint-scratches|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32401" CreationDate="2016-07-04T00:40:25.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What's making the clicking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there might be other things going on, due to the symptoms, its probably the starter solenoid.  When your key turns in the ignition, it completes a relatively light circuit between the battery and the solenoid.  The solenoid in turn snaps two contacts together (&lt;em&gt;click&lt;/em&gt;) completing a much larger circuit between the battery and the actual starter.  The reason they have these is so the large current doesn't have to flow through the key (or the ignition - you get the point)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Repetitive clicking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're experiencing repetitive clicking upon turning the key in the ignition, the most common problem will be a dead battery, or bad connections between the battery and the car.  The battery still has enough juice to close the solenoid's contacts, but the additional drain from the starter will reduce the current to the point that the solenoid can no longer stay closed. When the solenoid's contacts separate though, the larger circuit opens, reducing the drain on the battery, which allows the solenoid to close again, repeating the process. (Hence the repeated clicking.) Since you said you just replaced the battery, I would check all the connectors. Repeated clicking indicates that the solenoid is fine.   It is supplying power to the starter, but the battery or cables are not able to supply the current to keep it energized. If you're hearing repeated clicking, it has to be a fault prior to the solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your battery charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your battery connections/cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Single Click&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're hearing a single click, it is likely either your starter or your starter solenoid.  Your solenoid contacts might be burnt, not allowing enough current to go to the starter, or your starter motor could have a dead spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times this will be in the engine bay (under the hood/bonnet), but sometimes it will be connected directly to the starter, which is often slightly harder to get to.  However, I'd start with the solenoid, as that's cheaper and usually easier to replace than the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the solenoid, it's probably the starter.  For now, you can usually just rock the car back and forth to get the starter moved to a different position, then the car should start.  If this is the first time this has happened (although you might not know, seeing that you've had the car for about a month), it'll probably be a couple years before you even see this problem again.  However, it'll only get worse, so when you have spare time (and a little spare cash for the starter), you can go ahead and replace it.  You can usually find a video on YouTube, or you could ask a question here as well.  For most cars this won't be too hard of a surgery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T15:54:10.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32413" CreationDate="2016-07-04T00:50:58.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you did indeed apply an abrasive &quot;compound&quot;. Polish materials come in coarse and finer grits just like sandpaper. To polish scratches left by a polish of a course grit finer grits are used to polish out the deeper scratches.  The good news the clearcoat can, very likely, be restored to a normal smooth surface shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two options: You can take it to a professional detailer and have it polished.  Or you can obtain the required tools and materials and polish it yourself. &#xA;See my answer to this question for the required materials.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/31682/recondition-clear-coat/31684#31684&quot;&gt;How to polish clearcoat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T01:03:41.927" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T00:54:03.553" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike will start and run for about fifteen minutes then unexpectedly quits.  Replaced voltage regulator once already.  I've checked fuses and looked for exposed wires....still no luck. Any explanations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19523" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T00:55:22.400" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T00:55:22.400" Title="2001 Suzuki Intruder W/'03 ENG burning out voltage regulator" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-15T04:26:18.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32397" CreationDate="2016-07-04T01:15:09.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The other question I'd love an answer to is why are the bolts &quot;always&#xA;  replace.&quot; Does the torquing process (20 Nm + 90º) weaken the bolt, or&#xA;  is it not reproducible? Or something else altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a conventional bolt, ignoring the torque required to overcome friction when you tighten it, there is a linear relation between the amount of torque and the clamping load in the bolt. If you double the torque, you get double the clamping load. But the actual clamping load is not very well defined, because the amount of friction is unknown - it depends on the surface condition of the parts, any lubrication applied to the parts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T2Y bolts work in a different way to give an accurately controlled clamping load. When you tighten the bolt, it is deliberately overstressed so that the bolt permanently stretches. For this to work properly, it depends on two things: you need to apply enough torque to permanently stretch the bolt, but not so much that you over-stretch it, which would weaken it or even break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specified torque load (20 Nm for your bolt) is enough to get &quot;close&quot; to permanently stretching it, even if there is some friction in the joint. Actually the torque level is not too critical - the main reason for specifying a value is to make sure that you have taken up all the slack in the joint before the next step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of the operation, &lt;em&gt;turning the bolt through a specified angle&lt;/em&gt; (90 degrees) is the critical part that ensures it really is stretched - but not by too much, because the maximum stretch can't be more than 1/4 of the thread pitch, if you turn the bolt by a 1/4 of a turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is installed properly, the clamping load will depend only on the diameter of the bolt and the material it is made from, and not on uncontrolled factors like friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stretch is permanent - if you measure the length of the bolt, install it and remove it, and measure it again, it will be longer than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you re-use the bolt following the same torqueing procedure, you will stretch it by &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; quarter of a thread pitch - i.e. the total stretch will be &lt;em&gt;twice as much&lt;/em&gt; as it was designed for. That may not have much effect on the clamping load (indeed it might increase it rather than decrease it), but the stretching changes the structure of the material in the bolt, and it will be more likely to crack and/or break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, stretching the bolt with a 90 degree turn, releasing the stress, and then stretching it again would be likely to cause more damage than one &lt;em&gt;continuous&lt;/em&gt; 180 degree turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the take-home message is: these bolts are for single-use only!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T01:15:09.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32325" CreationDate="2016-07-04T01:26:49.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spoke with ford they said no&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disappointed middle seat is horrible design no way a normal person can sit comfortably &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation when buying 7 seater take 7 people with you so you can test all seats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19455" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T01:26:49.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15284" CreationDate="2016-07-04T02:31:52.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before all the checking balance, check the &quot;other&quot; out of round. My one in a million 1972 gem of a Pontiac (&amp;lt; $1000 TOTAL parts and maintenance spent last 20 years, and paid, any DIY free work neglible). More than 20 years ago, new NTW tires went out of round after a year or 2. As in tire wear made no longer round tires. Several tire shops claimed out of balance,all redid previous shop's balance and alignment. SOLUTION: an old radiator shop mechanic listened to the symptoms, radiator shop but an overall master mmechanic. He  simply put a board under spinning wheels first test, the gap narrowed and widened as the tires were no longer ROUND. Sold the tires cheap via &quot;the thrifty nickel&quot; magazine, to a guy using for only city driving...so didn't care... no bad vibration until about 50 mph, worse vibe with more mph. Heard then, that NTW sold cheap because like flawed clothing(seconds), the tires sold had flaws or poor quality. Lol, none of the mechanics who rebalanced, claimed each previous shop didn't align and balance right ...but none took a fast enough test drive. All they needed was 50 mph or especially 65 or faster to see there work FAILED to fix the vibe to shake and shimmy at speed... not like any REAL speed needed, like in late 1970's when that Pontiac would  go south over 1000 miles ti hit the Fla border in less than 11 hours,  including fuel stops and fast food stopNeat zero mph eating some if the 10+ nearly 11 hr trip time, before the final leg instate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19524" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T02:31:52.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32711" CreationDate="2016-07-04T04:17:15.840" Score="9" ViewCount="15513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of STI brake calipers that I'm interested in refinishing. From the factory, they come with a black finish and white lettering. What is the best way to remove the existing finish so that I can repaint them how I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZ0uq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZ0uq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2014 STI Calipers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T17:44:58.810" Title="How should I remove paint from calipers?" Tags="|paint|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T06:04:31.410" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my new car is by activated cruise controll at lets say 50 km/h handling this speed by displaying an current consume of 1.8~2.4 l/100km,&#xA;while when I'm trying to find the required pressure to the peddal to keep the speed constant, I'm when I got there, at a consume of 2.2~2.9 l/100km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same for the high way: cruise controll: 3.9~4.9 l/100km at 120 km/h, while I get with the mentioned method at that speed 4.5~6.0 on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For speeding up 5 seconds to 125 and then falling back to 115 I have in the speeding up phase a consume of around 12 l/100km but it feels like I'm faster back on 115 then it takes me to speed up to 125 again, so making my consume even worse and also letting me asume its not a micro speed up followed by a micro moment of falling back what the cruise controll internally does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I noticed so far I don't feel comfortable with activating cruisecontroll in inner city, as it appears to me, this could let me get to break too late when its required. But I'd also like to optimize my consume in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in what way is the cruisecontroll algorithm probably controlling the engine for keeping the speed? Is this to be assumed the most efficent way? If not so what is the best patern to use my cars fuel most efficient when trying to keep a specific speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15275" LastEditorUserId="15275" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T08:19:57.183" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T08:19:57.183" Title="What's the most efficient way to manually hold a specific speed?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|cruise-control|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T06:31:25.687" Score="3" ViewCount="7416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me where is Emtrac Plus Silver Alloy Batteries manufactured. The brand was offered to me recently, looked very good and I bought it. Hope it performs as well as it looks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19526" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T07:45:30.190" Title="Emtrac Plus Battery" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T07:43:50.697" Score="10" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to test my brake fluid to see whether it needs replacing rather than spend the time and money on it unnecessarily. I've seen inexpensive brake fluid testers on the market which work on the basis of detecting water percentage based on electrical resistance or capacitance. These devices have 2 prongs which you stick into the fluid reservoir and it lights up different LEDs depending on how much water it thinks is in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these types of testers reliable on to give an accurate reading?  I've seen other types of tester but many of them cost more than replacing the fluid, are there other inexpensive but better options? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:23:47.060" Title="Are resistance/capacitance based brake fluid testers reliable?" Tags="|diagnostics|brake-fluid|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31533" CreationDate="2016-07-04T08:45:49.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like bad diodes in the rectifier could force the voltage regulator to run the alternator at a higher duty cycle than normal at idle which would create extra drag on the engine, especially if the electrical load is high enough to cause the alternator to be close to full fielded in order to get enough output through the remaining good diodes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T08:45:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32420" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:11:32.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disassemble the calipers and use chemical paint remover or sandblasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15060" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T09:11:32.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32420" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:25:47.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need brake cleaner, a wire brush or scouring pad, and ideally some isopropyl alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrub the living crap out of the calipers, down to bare metal if possible, as it'll give the paint something to stick to. Dry off the calipers with the isopropyl alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With paint, the better you prep the surface, the better the paint will stick and stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T09:25:47.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32397" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:57:55.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual reason to replace the bolts isn't specifically the bolts, it's the nuts.  These are self locking (i.e. Nyloc) style nuts and after they've been removed and refitted, you can't be sure that they'll self-lock effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When purchasing a new balljoint, replacements for these are almost always provided.  Your local dealership should charge you no more than a few pence for these so I personally wouldn't risk their re-use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T09:57:55.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43851" CreationDate="2016-07-04T11:16:39.480" Score="3" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;CITROËN JUMPER BUSS (230P) 2.5 TD (76 KW,1996) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this van, which is constantly showing orange key (code) sign in the dash.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The thing is it use to happen in last few weeks but I could get away with it doing few times lock and unlock button and then the key was accepted.&#xA;I bought this van second hand so I only have one key with a small tab for lock unlock buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from last 3 days i cant make it work anymore and it seems like the key is not accepted. they light keeps there, despite resetting battery wire for hour.. bring key closer to transponder. lock unlock various times.&#xA;I dont know which thing is faulty, is it the immobilizer? the key chip or the transponder? what could be the fault. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit upset coz my van cant start anymore and i run my business through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19530" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T11:38:26.500" Title="Citroen jumper buss key code sign in dash" Tags="|ignition|citroen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32422" CreationDate="2016-07-04T11:33:23.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The batteries are manufactured in India. The company which produces them is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mindtrac.com/profile.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mindtrac&lt;/a&gt;. The reason you don't know much about them is they received seed capital in 2000 from JPMorgan as a startup. They produce tires, batteries, and some other stuff. They are supposed to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_14001_-_key_benefits.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISO 14001 certified&lt;/a&gt;, so apparently they worry about the environment, which is a good thing, especially for a Lead-Acid Battery manufacturer. I'm sure it would be pretty hard for them to get, considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T11:33:23.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32353" CreationDate="2016-07-04T11:35:08.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually it's the front brakes that heat up as this is where most braking resistance comes from. Could be a handbrake issue though. If your handbrake did not release completely it could apply a small amount of force, too little for you to notice but enough to heat up the disks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T15:48:55.387" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T15:48:55.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32447" CreationDate="2016-07-04T13:11:32.217" Score="14" ViewCount="9449" Body="&lt;p&gt;In critical applications tires are inflated using pure nitrogen (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3063/what-are-the-advantages-of-filling-nitrogen-instead-of-normal-air-in-the-car-t/3085&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But carbon dioxide (CO2) is a larger molecule (will leak slower from the tire), as well as inert (will not oxidize rim and will not combust in case of an accident). (&lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/54476/why-oxygen-leaks-from-tires-faster-than-nitrogen&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt;, pressure is proportional to the density, individual gas constant and temperature. Assuming constant volume (i.e. P &amp;propto; R*T), any change in temperature is &quot;amplified&quot; by the individual gas constant. And the gas constant is in favor of CO2: &lt;code&gt;R(CO2) &amp;lt; R(O2) &amp;lt; R(N2)&lt;/code&gt;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/specific-heat-capacity-gases-d_159.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;) So CO2 seems to give better pressure stability over temperature fluctuations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, CO2 storage is cheaper than nitrogen storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why tires are inflated with nitrogen and not CO2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9511" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:57:06.920" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T05:04:09.813" Title="Why nitrogen and not carbon dioxide is used in critical tire applications?" Tags="|tires|wheels|pressure|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32420" CreationDate="2016-07-04T13:17:24.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how these are finished, it may be difficult. It wouldn't surprise me if they are powder coated. To remove powder coatings, you'll have to disassemble and get sandblasted to remove (easiest way to remove powder coating completely). I'd highly recommend you get them powder coated again. Powder coating provides a finish which remains great for a long time to come. Paint has a habit of having to be refinished every couple of years to keep it looking good. To me the extra money in getting it finished this way makes it well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T13:17:24.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32735" CreationDate="2016-07-04T14:13:47.793" Score="1" ViewCount="3096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 MB c320 with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/187/288/482/482288187_417.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original key&lt;/a&gt;. The key is able to start the car perfectly fine, but when it comes to using the remote buttons, nothing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try pressing the lock, unlock or open trunk buttons, the car doesn't react, and I know the key has batteries because the red LED flashes every time I press them. I thought maybe the key isn't programmed properly to the car anymore, but then it shouldn't be able to start it either right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway I can reprogram, reinitialize or reset the key so that the buttons would actually work? I know I can bring the car to the dealer, but I don't think it's worth spending all that money to get another key with working buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, the rear window and the rear passenger windows are factory tinted and we also have a w203 replacement key (the buttons on that one aren't working either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19532" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T22:25:53.787" Title="How do I reprogram my original Mercedes smart key" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|smartkey|reprogram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32431" CreationDate="2016-07-04T14:25:24.913" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen makes up around 80% of Air - therefore its more readily reclaimed and separated than the smaller amounts of other gases in air.  I.e. the process for reclaiming nitrogen from air could be less efficient than that of reclaiming CO2 from air and still be cost effective.  Additionally its stability at higher temperatures means its behaves more predictably and  means the tyres handling characteristics are consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T14:25:24.913" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32413" CreationDate="2016-07-04T15:59:58.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thought that this would protect my car paint from sun, dust, rain , etc., but it seems I should have applied wax rather than polishing compound. Unfortunately I should have read more before buying the product. Can anyone advice if applying a polishing compound can ruin my car paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right, there's no point in polishing a new car, or a fresh coat of paint, with or without a clear coat finish. The purpose of polish is to remove dirt, industrial overspray, and oxidized old paint on the top level of an older paint finish. A new (or one year old) paint coat should not require polishing. If it does, it should be a warranty service done by the paint shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a coat of high quality wax on it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T15:59:58.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32413" CreationDate="2016-07-04T17:49:28.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can polishing compound ruin your car's paint? Yes. Is that a guarantee? Nope. The purpose of compound is to remove just enough paint that surface imperfections (scratches, swirls, holograms, oxidation) go away with the paint that is removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compound you linked to is specifically for hand application and as such is likely very aggressive. Thankfully it takes a lot of effort to destroy aftermarket paint when compounding by hand, even with the most aggressive of compounds. Your paint probably looks fine as is, but chances are it's just a little less shiny than it was. A compound that aggressive almost always requires a finish polish to achieve maximum shine. Omitting the finishing polish will not damage anything, you just won't have as much shine as you could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, if the paint is rough, clay it. If there are scratches, swirls or holograms, compound it. After whatever else you do, wax it. Any time I take the paint all the way down to... well... paint, I like to put at least two coats of wax on it to restore the protective layer. That protection is critical when you park outside like I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between polishing/compounding and waxes/sealants is that the former is for paint &lt;em&gt;correction&lt;/em&gt; and the latter is for paint &lt;em&gt;protection&lt;/em&gt;. They are both important for maintaining the best finish possible for your car, but please use them appropriately in the future. Your paint will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T17:49:28.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32407" CreationDate="2016-07-04T18:36:46.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes, that should fit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATU/TCK304/03978.oap?ck=Search_03978_1432743_-1&amp;amp;pt=03978&amp;amp;ppt=C0141#compatibilityTab_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;O'Reilly's  compatibility chart for the Gates TCK304&lt;/a&gt; shows your vehicle under the compatible vehicles.  In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002R8HMAY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon's compatibility&lt;/a&gt; seems to say the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure that you have a 2000cc (2.0L) engine?  The only match I see is the 2.5L for that year and trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; it turns out that there is a 2.0L version of this car, however it seems to be slightly obscure, and O'Reilly doesn't have it in there car list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the OP's comment: The replacement part is: 13028AA240 for Subaru Forester X Limited  AT 2000cc 2009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T03:05:00.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T18:55:58.643" Score="8" ViewCount="2165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Honda crf150F. I need to get to the components of my shifter to adjust something, but I need to remove the entire clutch housing to get to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a drawing of the clutch assembly: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-honda-crf150f/o/m15655?a=11#sch415323&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-honda-crf150f/o/m15655?a=11#sch415323&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to remove part 12 to get the housing off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to part 12 I need to remove 8, 4 11s, and 4 10s. At this point there is no pressure on the friction plates so when I try to remove 12 I just rotate whatever shaft is connected to the drive train and to the rear wheel(does not turn the part of the clutch with the gear meshing with the engine gear) and I have no way of stopping the rotation firmly enough to break whatever is holding in the nut so tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the dealer and even they don't have a tool for this... &#xA;Does anybody know anything I can try to get this off? At this point it seems like my only option is to make something custom and costly which I would like to avoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T03:45:52.043" Title="Cant Remove Nut on Clutch" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|clutch|repair|nut|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32431" CreationDate="2016-07-04T22:16:42.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen is a very predictable gas. All of its behaviors have been tested rigorously over many many years. As such they can predict the behavior much more easily than a mixed gas. Also, its performance is very similar to air. If you were unable to have access to a bottle of nitrogen, you could still use normal air and still be close to the original performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a safety perspective, nitrogen contains no oxygen. If there were an accident there is no oxygen to propagate a fire (air contains ~21% oxygen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19539" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T22:16:42.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27520" CreationDate="2016-07-04T22:28:23.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course the wáter pump &quot;looks&quot; fine. It always does, until the seal fails.&#xA;or the bearing fails and takes the seal with it.&#xA;You should always change the pump when you are at the timing componentes.&#xA;After the overheatings you experienced, it won't be long for the pump to fail.&#xA;I am pretty sure your problems didn't go away completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T22:28:23.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32453" CreationDate="2016-07-04T23:36:40.617" Score="7" ViewCount="2371" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm on the road right now (or was, when I wrote this) having an issue that started a few days ago and I'm trying to diagnose it. I am not sure what info is relevant, it does feel like more than one problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH. For the past few months it's had a slowish (.5-1 qt per week) oil leak out the lower timing belt cover, which from the service diagrams I can only assume is a worn out seal on the crank or cam shafts. I've had some success stopping it with lucasoil oil stabilizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 2 days ago while idling with the AC running it started oscillating between about 400-1100 rpms (normal is ~800-900). First every 20 seconds or so then gradually increasing frequency over the course of 30 minutes until it was every few seconds, blowing gray smoke, and eventually stalled out. Also there were about a dozen small black specks on the ground behind the exhaust pipe. Here's its final moments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiwrE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiwrE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I could no longer start the car. It would turn over but wouldn't start. I checked the oil, it was a little low but not critical. I noticed a larger than usual puddle on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happened the check engine light came on and I read P0170 (fuel trim bank error). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked it up, found some similar stories that identified the air pressure sensor as the issue. I took another vehicle out, replaced the map sensor and the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looked like it solved the issue, but I let the car idle (no AC or fans on), came back about an hour later and found it stalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it aside until today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I started the car and drove it. It ran all right for a while. Suddenly the following happened all at once:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check engine light &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low oil pressure warning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burning smell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressing gas pedal does nothing unless clutch was out. Or something. Some kind of weird long throttle delay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the heater on full blast, cold air comes through the vents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VTEC does not kick in at all, and general mild power loss in non VTEC range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled over, stalled, got it started after some trouble, stalled again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opened hood, a medium amount of smoke coming off engine block and a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of heat, I cant locate source of smoke. Oil looks a bit low. There was smoke coming off the oil on the end of the dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read error code as P0177 ECT sensor low input. Looked it up, it said this is thrown when coolant temp is reported 300F or higher. Said most common cause was wiring but the smoke and heat makes me think its correct. I read coolant temp at 309F. Cooled to about 290 after 15-20 minutes of sitting there. Now at about 201, so those readings do seem reasonable to me and not like a sensor malfunction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed a coolant leak and refilled the radiator about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26349/min-max-fill-for-coolant-reserve-overflow-tank-in-abscence-of-markings&quot;&gt;5 months ago&lt;/a&gt;. I have not seen and do not currently see any coolant leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other info from comments, etc.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No pressure in coolant reserve hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant reserve tank cap is damaged where hose connects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator cap o-ring is pretty torn up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upper and lower radiator hoses and radiator itself cool to touch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both the radiator and condenser fans are working properly; at least they both spin at full speed when the AC is on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since replacing the MAP sensor and air filter, the exhaust has been clear and the oscillating behavior during idle hasn't returned, that seems good at least.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The AC was blowing out lukewarm air at high RPMs earlier in the day when this first all started a few days ago. I assumed the compressor was on its way out but now I'm thinking the air may have just been too hot for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carpet in cabin is dry, no coolant leaking into cabin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I am sitting at a gas station waiting for the engine to cool so I can test the ect sensor and check the levels, but I'm out of ideas. The engine confuses me a little because of how heavily computer controlled it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any ideas, or know anything else I can check? I only have minimal tools with me (sockets, some screw drivers, a multimeter and some other basic stuff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the engine cooled I checked the coolant. It was bone dry. I couldn't open the reserve tank or check its level because of the damaged cap. The radiator capacity is 3.3L and I put about 3.2L back in. I bled the air, all seemed fine. All the other weird issues I'm assuming were the result of a severely overheated engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it about 170 miles with no issue (it was running quite well actually, I think the MAP sensor replacement was a long time coming anyways). I even idled for about 30 minutes in the middle of the trip, AC on. Everything seemed OK. The coolant temperature held in the 190-200F range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a mile before my house the temperature gauge shot up suddenly and quickly, and the weird behaviors started again, as well as the burning smell. I put the heater on, the air was extremely hot. I guided it home gently without exceeding 250 F. Once it cooled in my driveway I opened the radiator cap and it seems dry again. I'm out of coolant right now so haven't refilled it yet but I suspect it's empty. I see no puddles on the ground and no liquid coolant anywhere under the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2297412/radiator-fluid-disappearing-like-a-magic-trick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2297412/radiator-fluid-disappearing-like-a-magic-trick&lt;/a&gt;, the working theories there are blown head gasket, cracked cylinder head, or a leaky heater core. My exhaust is clear which I assume (and hope) means that I'm not burning coolant in the engine, so maybe it's the core or somewhere else in the system. Maybe it's evaporating out the broken seals? Can it do that? In any case, it seems to rule out the theory of a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slow leak, I lost &gt; 3L of coolant in &amp;lt; 200 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want to check the reserve tank but I can't get the cap off, can't see the level externally, and don't want to cut the hose and rip it out completely until I can get a replacement cap (the damage to the cap is in the joint where the hose connects, so I cannot unscrew the cap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T17:48:09.330" Title="Overheat, coolant loss, P0170/P0117, hard start, smoke, delayed throttle, no vtec" Tags="|engine|honda|troubleshooting|overheating|prelude|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32520" CreationDate="2016-07-05T00:37:50.543" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn about engines, so my question is where do valves, camshaft etc go inside different engines? I see different engine have them in different places, base on if the engine is a inline, v-line or flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="19543" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T00:55:18.883" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T18:39:07.730" Title="Where do you install cylinder heads, camshafts and valves in different engine types?" Tags="|engine|valve|camshaft|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47565" CreationDate="2016-07-05T00:38:33.687" Score="5" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I activate the windshield mist function with wipers no washer fluid comes out. I checked the windshield washer (WSW) 25A fuse in the fuse box inside the passenger compartment on the driver side and it was not broken. I installed a new washer pump and it still didn't work. I connected a volt meter to the electrical contacts that connect to the pump, and it did not ready any voltage when the mist function was activated. If the pump is not getting power and the fuse is good, then what else could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19544" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T22:19:37.003" Title="Troubleshoot 2002 Chevy Impala Windshield Washer Pump" Tags="|windshield|impala|pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32431" CreationDate="2016-07-05T01:27:41.433" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen is inert and doesn't affect rubber or the steel rim.&#xA; Carbon dioxide is highly reactive and affects both the rubber by causing swelling in the rubber. It also would cause corrosion in iron based rims (particularly Carbon- Steel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: When CO2 is mixed with moisture becomes Carbolic acid which is corrosive. It all depends on concentration. It is like comparing Acetic Acid commonly referred to as Vinegar. At 3% you can put on french fries. At industrial strength 97% not only will it dissolve the french fry but also human flesh right down to the bone very fast. As for CO2 affect on rubber I cited a industry source-(Air Liquide) a company that specialized in compressed gases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of automotive tires using CO2 would probably cause catastrophic failure. My experience with Nitrogen is that I have noticed it to be much more quieter while driving and less pressure variations when the temperature varies from season to season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://encyclopedia.airliquide.com/encyclopedia.asp?LanguageID=11&amp;amp;GasID=26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://encyclopedia.airliquide.com/encyclopedia.asp?LanguageID=11&amp;amp;GasID=26&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check under Material Compatibility under the heading of Elastomers- Quite illuminating.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T15:50:26.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T15:50:26.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T01:31:58.543" Score="2" ViewCount="2578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know the torque on intake manifold bolts on 2000 gmc Sonoma with a 4.3 motor &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19546" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T02:02:19.503" Title="what the torque should be on my 2000 gmc 4.3 intake maanifold" Tags="|chevrolet|air-intake|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T01:32:57.787" Score="5" ViewCount="8723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Noticed the turn signals sometimes works &amp;amp; then just stop for a few days. I replaced the relay and it did not help. Nothing else is affected but the turn signals.  could it be the multifunction switch? and is this easy to replace? any other ideas? Thanks so much for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19545" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T03:06:17.493" Title="2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo turn signals" Tags="|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32446" CreationDate="2016-07-05T01:58:51.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either the switch is bad or there's a break in the wiring due to corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain access to the windshield washer switch connector and check for power on the red wire. If you have power at the switch and not at the pump there's a break in the wiring. If you don't have power on the red wire check the yellow wire for power. If the yellow wire has power replace the switch. If theres no power on the yellow wire than either the fuse/fuse box or path to the underhood fuse box is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for a good ground at the washer pump by doing a voltage drop test from the pump connector to the battery negative terminal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T01:58:51.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32448" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:02:19.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this should help.  I note that it is a very specific sequence and three-stage endeavor -- which makes me suspect that it should probably be followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpA6E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpA6E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T02:02:19.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32459" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:19:56.713" Score="10" ViewCount="3312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there must be something I don't understand about impact wrenches. After snapping a half-inch breaker bar (with a cheater) while trying to remove the axle nut, I decided that an impact wrench might be a good investment. Between positive reviews, a $99.99 price, and a 20% off coupon the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html&quot;&gt;Harbor Freight Earthquake&lt;/a&gt; seemed like a good bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hooked up the wrench, set the compressor to 90 psi, grabbed a 30 mm impact socket and went after the axle nut. Sure enough, it came off. Good. Switched to a 17 mm socket and started in on the wheel lugs. It wouldn't touch them, not even close. The wheel lugs are torqued to 120 NM (90 ft/lbs) and came free easily with a 18&quot; breaker bar (a 25&quot; bar wouldn't touch the axle nut). I let the compressor come up to full pressure, I can't think of anything different between the two fasteners except for the size (and that one was initially much tighter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody explain this? Is there a lesson about impact wrenches in this? I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T05:40:59.083" Title="Impact Wrench Mystery – breaks loose axle nut, but can't undo wheel lugs…" Tags="|tools|impact-wrench|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32444" CreationDate="2016-07-05T03:18:20.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got a chance to investigate more and figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After letting it cool during the initial trip, I was able to check the coolant, and it was bone dry. I added about 3.2 liters to the 3.3 liter capacity radiator. I noticed the seal of the reserve tank was damaged, and the radiator cap seal was falling apart as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refilled the radiator and bled the air out, and drove for a good 45 minutes with no issues and no visible leaks; the car seems to be back to its normal self with the coolant holding steady around 190-200 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then drove 170 miles with no visible issue, even stopped and idled for about half an hour in the middle, and about a mile before my house I smelled the burning smell again and the coolant temp spiked very suddenly. I made it home at least and kept it under 250F. I checked the coolant and it was completely empty again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed Ben's advice from the comments, picked up some UV dye and ran it through, and immediately found that coolant was leaking heavily from the damaged reserve tank cap (the damage was to the rotating part of the cap where the hose connects, which in turn was forcing the cap to become unscrewed a bit and not make a good seal). Here's some shots from above and underneath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFGFi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFGFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reasons I didn't notice the leak initially (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5Ac2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guess I lied about no puddles&lt;/a&gt;) and some troubleshooting lessons learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basically all the coolant travelling through the overflow hose just came directly out of the car, and it only happens &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70RZ3yankKY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when I rev the engine high&lt;/a&gt;. All the observations I made while I was sitting there idling, but the coolant was only leaking while moving on the road. Also this could explain why I made the 170 mile highway drive fine, including the rest stop, but dumped all the coolant again as soon as I got back into the city. Lesson here is hit the gas a few times when checking for leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I initially observed the problems and checked under the car, the front of the car was parked over grass and not concrete, and the leak was running down the splash guard and exiting so far forward that it just went into the grass. Lesson here is don't assume there's no puddles anywhere unless the entire car is over something that doesn't absorb liquids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I discovered the damaged reserve tank cap immediately but didn't make the connection until just now. Lesson here is don't ignore things that seem small.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways I ordered a new reserve tank, cap, hoses, and a radiator cap as well. The good news is it's not nearly as big of a pain as replacing the heater core, and doesn't require a trip to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure I also drained the oil and pulled the filter and checked for coolant mixed in and it's totally clean, so that's also good news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other issues seem to have just been indirect results of a severely overheated engine, although as far as the MAP sensor goes I can't say for sure if it was on its way out anyways or if that was another symptom. I'm overdue for a timing belt change anyways, so it's a good opportunity to inspect the cylinder heads and such for damage while the engine's apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T17:48:09.330" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T17:48:09.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32458" CreationDate="2016-07-05T06:26:41.290" Score="7" ViewCount="2916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to understand engines. One thing that got me confused is the location of the camshaft. At first I seen it go above the valve so I thought it sat in the cylinder head. Now as I'm watching videos and reading more, it states that the camshaft go inside the cylinder block and use rocker arms etc to move the valves. Which one is it? Is it based on the engine type, v-line, inline etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:26:29.257" Title="Where do the Camshaft Go?" Tags="|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32422" CreationDate="2016-07-05T07:42:50.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understand that ​Amaron and Emtrac plus ​are manufactured in same factory in India. Both same quality. Heard, quality is very good. I bought Emtrac Plus battery only 6 months ago. Lets hope all goes well. My friend used Amaron battery and it lasted over 4 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19548" LastEditorUserId="19548" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T07:49:15.277" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T07:49:15.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32455" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:26:29.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different engine designs and these govern not only the location, but also the number of camshafts within an engine.  Some terms you will encounter include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OHV which means Over Head Valve (the cam is usually in the block, below the valves and acts upon the valves with pushrods and rocker arms)  An example of this being the Austin Morris A-series engine as found in the original Mini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OHC which means Over Head Cam (the camshaft is typically located within the cylinder head and is higher than the valves.  It usually acts upon the valves via cam buckets, also known as tappets).  An example of this being the Volkswagen EG / DX 8v engines as used in the original Golf GTI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOHC which is Double Overhead Cam (there are two camshafts, typically one cam runs the inlet valve set and one the exhaust set.  Some DOHC engines have multiple inlet and multiple exhaust valves for each cylinder).  Two examples of this which are slightly different being the original Lampredi Fiat / Lancia Twin Cam (8v) engine which ran twin cams but only single inlet and exhaust valves per cylinder and the other being the Mk2/Mk3 Golf GTI 16v engine, a DOHC design which featured two inlet and two exhaust valves per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also encounter designs where the engine runs multiple banks of cylinders such as V or boxer engines.  When these engines run an OHC design, the typically have a camshaft per bank of cylinders.  This is the type if engine where you may encounter a &quot;Quad-Cam&quot; design.  Essentially the engine has four camshafts, i.e. two per bank in a doubled up DOHC setup.  Good examples to look at include the Alfa Romeo Boxer engine series and the Subaru Impreza series of engines.  Both of these are boxer engines (could also arguably be described as a 180 degree V).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:26:29.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32452" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:58:16.337" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would I be right an assuming your car is equipped with alloy wheels?  Also, have the wheel bolts been fitted with a small smear of grease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the wheel bolts are reacting in a &quot;springy&quot; way to the forces of the impact wrench.  It may be that they're butted up tightly against the softer metal of an alloy wheel or they're in the threads with a small amount of grease which is counteracting the effects of the wrench.  Bear in mind that the hammer action of the wrench is applying a very large amount of torque to the bolt of a very small time, almost as if it's trying to &quot;shake&quot; the bolt loose.  This works very well on large, rusted on bolts but not at all well for bolts which simply need a small but continually applied amount of torque to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki article&lt;/a&gt; on impact wrenches;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A wrench that is capable of freeing a rusted nut on a very large bolt may be incapable of turning a small screw mounted on a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally only break out the impact wrench when I come to a nut / bolt that simply will not un-do.  Otherwise I'll have a ratchet or spanner in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T23:54:53.753" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T23:54:53.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:59:32.077" Score="3" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it true that turning the heater up as high as possible will help to blow hot air off the motor and help to keep you going with the water until You get to a garage?....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lynnie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:53:57.680" Title="What to do if your radiator is leaking?" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32460" CreationDate="2016-07-05T09:37:20.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional heater on your car is basically a small radiator inside the cabin and a fan. So yes, in the event of an engine heating more than it should turning the heater temperature and fan speed to the max with the windows open will help it cool down slightly. The effectiveness of this probably depends on the specific car model - or more specifically the size of heater matrix and fan power. So don't rely on it by any means to drive an overheating car, but it might save the engine in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBgEs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBgEs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This keeps you warm in winter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this will only work if there is at least some coolant in the radiator. If you have a leak on the road and absolutely have to keep going - try to keep the cooling system as full as possible to maintain circulation. A dry system won't cool the engine, so put some coolant in. If coolant is unavailable - buy water (preferably distilled) at the nearest stop and pour it in, just make sure to drain it and replace with coolant mixture when you get the leak fixed. Make frequent stops to check the level and add more when required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be extra careful while adding coolant to an engine of a car that has been recently driven. Coolant will be scalding hot and opening the radiator/expansion tank may release pressure in the system, possibly spraying coolant and burning you! Wait a few minutes to let the engine cool a little after turning it off and open the cap super slowly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try to seal the leak with the engine off the best you can to slow it down if you can find it (again, be careful, coolant will be hot). Driving calmly but fast (low engine speed, high gear) will help, as the airflow to the main radiator is higher and you'll get to your destination faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T13:53:57.680" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:53:57.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T10:21:08.300" Score="4" ViewCount="3815" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi i bought an 06 astra in october and since then its had 4 batteries and a new alternator but it still dies over night. I was told potentially the radio was draining it and that was a knows fault. I had the radio unplugged and the car ran fine for 2 weeks but has died again. &#xA;What else could it be anyone know? Im thinking starter motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When its died it unlocks with key remote and the clock still works but when i try to start it it just ticks over but is fine again after a jumpstart. Ive soent a fortune on it so thought id ask here  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T23:23:01.830" Title="2006 vauxhall astra keeps having battery drained and wont start" Tags="|battery|alternator|starter|astra|drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32431" CreationDate="2016-07-05T10:57:47.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen is cheaper because it's readily available in the air, and can be extracted with a rather compact &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_generator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nitrogen generator&lt;/a&gt;. Extraction of carbon dioxide from the air is inefficient, so it has to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide#Isolation_and_production&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;produced&lt;/a&gt; by burning fuels (such as methane) or via thermal decomposition of limestone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T10:57:47.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32488" CreationDate="2016-07-05T12:14:37.530" Score="4" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the rear brake cylinder on my 2004 Hyundai Getz 1.3. Although the cylinder comes with the bleeder nut, it doesn't come with the union nut that is used to connect the brake hose to the cylinder. The hose is a standard 3/16&quot; pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look at my existing union (which I want to replace, but haven't got off yet) and it has 11mm flats. The bleeder nut that comes with the cylinder also has 11mm flats and the thread appears to be M10x1 as measured by a thread gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the following part recommended by my local parts supplier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gsfcarparts.com/659aa0020&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gsfcarparts.com/659aa0020&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is simply listed as &quot;10mm&quot;. I'm not sure whether that refers to the distance across flats or to the thread diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another supplier has the following part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-brake-pipe-unions-metric-male&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-brake-pipe-unions-metric-male&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just listed as &quot;metric male&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I've searched for flare nut wrenches, most of them don't seem to have an 11mm size, which is presumably what I would need to get these nuts off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm a bit confused regarding the proper sizes and specifications of these nuts. Can anyone clarify, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3072" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T21:46:21.530" Title="Is this the correct brake union for my cylinder?" Tags="|brakes|cylinder|nut|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:36:11.143" Score="6" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;The past month I have been refilling my empty coolant reservoir before each trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent trip I noticed every few moments I would lose some performance, the RPM's would stay the same but my acceleration would slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got home to investigate the problem and found the source of the coolant leak, my cylinder head...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This power loss I am experiencing, is this coolant leaking into my combustion chamber?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I called a mechanic who recommended I try to use some head-gasket sealants, is this a good recommendation or have I 'passed the point of no return'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About a month ago, I changed the timing belt and water pump, is there anything I could have done that would have caused the head gasket to blow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T18:24:20.150" Title="2003 Subaru Outback Legacy, Blown Head Gasket" Tags="|subaru|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32466" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:18:24.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant can definitely leak into the combustion chamber with a blown head gasket. Whether or not this is the cause of your power loss is hard to say. The amount of coolant going into the cylinder varies due to the severity of the head gasket leak. The head gasket itself is an integral part of the compression system in your engine. With a faulty head gasket, compression is lost in the cylinders causing a loss of performance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have never had success with head gasket sealers. This isn't to say that it won't help you though. If you don't want to spend the hundreds of dollars to repair your head gasket right away you could try the sealant and see if it does anything for you. If it doesn't help though, you definitely need to get the gasket replaced. Severe damage can be done to overheating engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head gaskets are just like every other gasket in a car and go bad over time from age and use. The only thing I can think of that you would have affected is if your water pump gasket didn't seal entirely and caused a coolant leak. I would think that you'd notice that though as they typically leak pretty conspicuously. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T14:18:24.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32481" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:22:12.337" Score="4" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2007 Mercedes-Benz SLK (R171). My daytime running lights have died, and I'm a little puzzled as to how to go about fixing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stock headlights have been replaced by aftermarket hardware, that contain LEDs for the DRLs. They worked fine for years, but last week they just died on both sides of the car. I've checked all of the car's fuses, and all of them seem to be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headlights on the car are otherwise identical in appearance to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sonar-MERCEDES-2005-2011-DAYLIGHT-HEADLIGHTS/dp/B00TILJ5PI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these sold on Amazon (brand: Sonar)&lt;/a&gt;, only mine are not black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all ideas on how to get the LEDs to light up again would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T14:32:55.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T06:57:15.880" Title="How to fix 2007 Mercedes SLK daytime running lights?" Tags="|headlight|mercedes-benz|led|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:51:06.320" Score="3" ViewCount="1855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my car's check engine light turned on, ever since then every time I attempt to turn on the car it has difficulty turning over. Here are the Codes:&#xA;P0300&#xA;P0301&#xA;P0302&#xA;P0303&#xA;P0304&#xA;P0305&#xA;P0306&#xA;P1456&#xA;I attempted to search Google on the meaning of these codes and i get mixed messages. If someone can clarify what might be the problem that would be greatly appreciated. &#xA;2000 Honda Accord LX V6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19555" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T13:36:47.233" Title="2000 Honda Accord Codes?" Tags="|honda|accord|diy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32466" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:05:03.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quite possibly, because the cylinder with coolant leaking into it will have low compression. When I ran my Subaru with two leaking cylinders, I found that on the freeway, the engine had to run at about 1,000 rpm higher for the same performance. At low speed it ran really badly, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a new mechanic; this one's after extra work. Those head sealers only work if you want to sell the car in the next week or so (then the mess becomes someone else's problem). They really clog up a lot the engine, by virtue of the way they work. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No. If you have problems replacing the timing belt, you KNOW as soon as you rotate the engine :) The only similarity is that the gaskets are the same age as the old timing belt, so pretty much ready to go. How many miles on the car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did your own timing belt, and (especially) if you're fine with taking the engine out - 4 bolts on most Subaru engines - you can do the job yourself and save a lot of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T15:05:03.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32466" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:17:18.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets around +/-160,000 miles.  It's highly likely you have already warped the head so no matter who does the work make sure the head is resurfaced.  On the plus side, as others have mentioned these engines are easy to remove should you tackle this job yourself. You will want to replace additional gaskets when replacing the head gaskets such as valve guides and cam seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13409" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T15:17:18.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:38:21.470" Score="2" ViewCount="2118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu LT. I had a check engine light come on last week. I went to a parts store and the guy working there plugged a small, hand held computer into my car under the steering column. He found out I needed a new MAF sensor. I bought one, installed it and that problem was fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having now is that ever since he plugged in his computer under my steering column, my blinkers don't work right. When I put the left blinker on, I have to hold it down or it won't stay on. When I put the right blinker on, I have to turn it off by hand or it won't go off. Is it possible that he bumped something under there and I need to have something readjusted so my blinkers will work right again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19557" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T22:33:24.133" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T03:34:36.410" Title="2009 Chevy Malibu turn signal problems" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|turn-signal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:43:50.960" Score="4" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just put a new Electronic Control Unit (ECU) in my '86 Corvette.  My key seems to be giving the right code, as I get fuel to the rail and spark to the plugs, however, I don't get injector pulse, so no gas is going to the cylinders.  I have new injectors. I am told that I need the ECU to read the key chip, to get injector pulse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about reprogramming an old chipped key to a new ECU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19558" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T17:40:43.813" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T02:39:30.097" Title="How to reprogram an 86 corvette chip key to a new Electronic Control Unit" Tags="|starting|key|electronic-control-module|ignition-key|corvette|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32469" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:51:03.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I can't add images in a comment I had to add as an answer.  Apparently Honda called the valve in question a two way valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9asRN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9asRN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13409" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T15:51:03.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11220" CreationDate="2016-07-05T16:31:38.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it might be worth, we have a pair of Jetta Mk4 TDIs one with the ALH engine, the other with a BEW. Both are well over 200,000 miles (the ALH is pushing 300,000) and for the most part we do our own maintenance, using a local shop for thorny diagnostic issues and when specialized tools or a lift are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over about 200,000 miles the ALH has run just over $0.10/mile (0.1028), that includes three timing belts, brakes, a drive shaft, struts – the usual stuff you might expect over 200,000 miles. It's worth noting that brakes have lasted over 100,000 miles, tires (Michelin) has lasted 80,000 miles, the exhaust system is still going strong, we're still on the original turbo, injectors, and injection pump (although I'm working on smoking issues right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've only had the BEW for about 50,000 miles and it is running only $0.0208/mile (with basically no major work beyond normal maintenance items).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both cars get serviced according to the factory schedule using OEM parts and good synthetic oil. The costs feel very reasonable to me and the durability of the cars makes me think that we've saved quite a bit over the cost of getting new (or new to us) cars over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T16:31:38.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32469" CreationDate="2016-07-05T17:59:44.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1456 -small evap leak detected. Very common problem on Honda. I appears to be the O ring on the filler pipe assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wac6F2JUVSo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wac6F2JUVSo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code P0300 - Causes and Fixes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Code P0300 is a code that is generated when your engine has a misfire that is not related to only one cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes this code will be set in addition to other codes such as P0301 which means that there is a misfire on cylinder 1 (cylinder 1 is the number one cylinder when looking at the firing order. It is generally the forward most cylinder on the engine.). If these engine codes are present as well the you should diagnose those first as they are probably causing this trouble code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This code will set your check engine light and needs to be fixed as soon as possible. If it is not then you will probably need to replace your catalytic converter as well as the problem that is causing your misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many causes for this OBD code. Since it is a &quot;random misfire&quot; or &quot;multiple misfire&quot; this means that the misfire is on different cylinders and not just one all the time.&#xA;What Causes a P0300 Code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Low Fuel Pressure&#xA;Vacuum Leak&#xA;EGR system malfunction&#xA;Internal Engine Problems (such as low compression)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less Common Causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Faulty Coil&#xA;Faulty Spark Plugs and/or Wires&#xA;Camshaft or Crankshaft sensors&#xA;Ignition module&#xA;Computer&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myautorepairadvice.com/p0300.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.myautorepairadvice.com/p0300.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T17:59:44.350" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32466" CreationDate="2016-07-05T18:24:20.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hard to say, but plausible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've had mixed experience with sealants but it's never a permanent fix. I had it hold in a 98 Outback for about a year, but then it failed again and more sealant did not help. If there's a chance that could buy you the time you need to replace the vehicle, wait until the weather is pleasant for working on the vehicle, or save up money to use on the repairs, go for it. There's really nothing much to lose beyond the price of the sealant. It will not ruin your engine by gunking it up, but there is a chance it could clog your radiator to an extent that you want to replace it (another $100 or so).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you did anything wrong. These vehicles are infamous for blown head gaskets. Some people say it's due to the materials not being made to handle fuel with ethanol added, but I don't know whether it's true or not or whether it applies to your model year even if it was true for earlier ones (I heard this for the 98s).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I did the job in a 98 without taking out the engine, so I suspect that's possible in yours too. Most of the pain was actually getting off the valve covers and dealing with removing/installing the cam shafts while the engine was in the vehicle (necessary on DOHC models from that period, maybe not on yours, to reach the head bolts). Once you get everything else off, though, removing and reinstalling the heads is pretty easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T18:24:20.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32480" CreationDate="2016-07-05T19:19:35.443" Score="23" ViewCount="5390" Body="&lt;p&gt;An answer to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/31646/standard-practices-for-use-and-care-of-click-type-torque-wrenches/31657?noredirect=1#comment53533_31657&quot;&gt;question asking about torque wrench maintenance&lt;/a&gt; mentions to not use a particular kind of torque wrench for loosening bolts. This got me thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think it'd be preferable to loosen the bolt first, then use the torque wrench to re-tighten the bolt. Why would someone want to use a torque wrench specifically to loosen a bolt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T14:03:03.073" Title="Why would I want to measure torque while loosening a bolt or nut?" Tags="|tools|torque|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32479" CreationDate="2016-07-05T19:27:18.320" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you want to measure breakaway torque. This can tell you if a fastener has started to loosen due to vibration, or was over-torqued and the bolt/stud may have stretched or weakened, or the fastener was cross-threaded and need to be replaced. Note that breakaway torque values will often be higher than the stated torque spec, as the breakaway torque measures static torque (the fastener is not moving), while the tightening torque is a dynamic value (because the fastener is still moving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T19:27:18.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32468" CreationDate="2016-07-05T19:28:56.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After hours of tracing cables, removing panels and taking apart more of the car than I'd like to admit, I figured the issue out. Apparently there's a cable for control current (or something like that). The control current had gone out. The car still kept thinking the lights were on, as the LED control circuitry was apparently using the power the car was feeding it to illuminate the LEDs it wasn't illuminating. That's why there was not indication on the dash about the failed lights (the indication came on once I disconnected the power cable to the lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I traced what I believe to be the control cable back to close to the battery from a mysterious small black box next to the right headlight, where I found a casing for a glass fuse on the wire! To no one's surprise, the fuse had blown. Having now replaced the fuse, the lights are back to working as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, I do feel like an idiot. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my defence, the additional fuse casing was sort of hidden behind something else in the engine compartment. Obviously it is related to the aftermarket headlights installed on the car by a previous owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check all the fuses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure you checked all the fuses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;verify there are no fuses you haven't checked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;locate the extra fuses you still haven't checked added with aftermarket components that are not in one of the car's fuse boxes and replace as necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T06:57:15.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T06:57:15.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32479" CreationDate="2016-07-05T20:27:01.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another, somewhat different consideration, is that &quot;clockwise only&quot; torque wrenches are not suitable for left-hand threads – in case that matters to you. Of course tightening a left-hand thread is the same as loosening a right-hand one. Beam type (scale and pointer) torque wrenches are reliable and inexpensive and all of the ones I've seen will work in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T20:27:01.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32473" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:06:13.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Turn the key to the Run position and leave it for 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Shut the ignition off for 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat steps one and two, two more times and try cranking. If that doesn't work you need to go to a dealer to have the ECM reprogrammed or disable the VATs system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T21:06:13.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:19:44.270" Score="1" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;2010 malibu. At random, ac stops blowing cold air. Still blows but not cold. At the same time, the temp gauge drops to the bottom. It can work for a day fine then suddenly do the same thing. I've watched my temp Gauge flutter a couple if times and I can feel the change in temp. Please help....it's hot in Florida!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19560" LastEditorUserId="33024" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T17:22:48.027" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T19:00:23.580" Title="2010 malibu ac stops and temp Gauge drops" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:44:46.643" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Toyota Corolla. There is oil streaming from the bottom of the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OIL PAN-there is a round rubber plug there and oil is coming out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19562" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T22:34:17.887" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T14:56:36.437" Title="what is wrong when oil leaks from bottom of oil pan in a 1992 toyota corolla" Tags="|toyota|corolla|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32465" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:46:21.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, the part labelled &quot;10mm&quot; was the correct type. The flats are 11mm across and the thread is M10x1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3072" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T21:46:21.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32479" CreationDate="2016-07-05T21:50:43.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is because a torque wrench looks/acts like a breaker bar, it's tempting to use it to loosen nuts/bolts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19563" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T21:50:43.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T23:11:28.863" Score="5" ViewCount="12831" Body="&lt;p&gt;a/c and re-circulation light stay on  my 2002 Honda civic.The only way the compressor will come on ,is by grounding relay,then it blows ice cold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relays are all good.There is power to the compressor relay and the fan relay.When I ground non power poles on both relays everything works as it should except can't turn off and on from dashboard switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19567" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T17:05:47.200" LastActivityDate="2018-09-19T00:58:51.217" Title="2002 honda civic a/c not working" Tags="|ac|lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T23:29:18.227" Score="1" ViewCount="3780" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car won't start and it's because power steering pump slings oil on it. I was told that I had to clean it to be able to have it charge. I need to know if I clean my alternator from all that sludge will it save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19561" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T10:38:33.993" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T10:38:33.993" Title="How to repair and clean alternator" Tags="|electrical|alternator|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-14T17:41:02.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T00:43:50.903" Score="3" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Toyota Tacoma low beams quit working, door locks won't work, no radio, no cruise control what could be the problem?&#xA;Have checked the fuses and there doesn't appear to be a problem with them.&#xA;Someone said the ECM could that be it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19571" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T10:49:42.500" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T01:06:17.470" Title="2002 Toyota Tacoma multiple issues?" Tags="|electrical|toyota|troubleshooting|tacoma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T01:25:53.247" Score="2" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2002 TDI has started surging at idle – especially in gear after a cold start, it seems to get better as the car warms up – and smoking (mostly HB's, vile habit). This has been going on for about a year and has slowly been getting worse. The car is an automatic, we got it in 2004 and as far as I know it is still on its original injectors, injection pump, and turbocharger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smoking seems to be continuous – I see a light stream of smoke coming out when I'm driving behind the car on the highway – and fuel economy is down. Occasionally there is a large puff of black smoke on acceleration, but it does not happen every time. It seems to be most likely to happen on the first hard acceleration of a trip or warm up cycle (e.g., when merging onto a highway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fault codes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Injection timing is within spec (checked using VCDS, got a fuel temp value of 120 and a timing value of 60).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbo output seems OK. Testing with a Mity Vac I can see full range on the VNT actuator (it starts moving as soon as vacuum is applied and hits the stop at about 20&quot; Hg). Logging boost while driving with VCDS shows that the turbo output tracks ECS requests – I don't know how to judge the accuracy of the tracking, but the turbo is definitely responding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The intake manifold has been recently (&amp;lt; 2,000 miles) cleaned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as I know the injectors and injection pump are original and have about 270,000 miles on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing belt was replaced about 1,000 miles ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've tried, checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned all of the engine compartment grounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the fuel filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I changed the fuel filter, I filled it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_5170.html?Opendocument&amp;amp;land=gb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liqui Moly Diesel Purge&lt;/a&gt; and ran another can of Diesel Purge through the system by pulling the lines from the fuel tank and running them into a bottle of Diesel Purge. The engine seemed to run better as soon as I did this. There was no surging or smoke running with no load through a range of speeds. When the bottle was empty, I reconnected the fuel tank and the engine seemed to be continuing to run well. It drove well and I couldn't produce any smoke, even on acceleration. I was ready to write Diesel Purge testimonials. All of this was on a warm engine and was less than 10 miles of driving. The next morning my partner drove the car and it was back to surging and smoking…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that the problem must be either the Engine Control Unit, the injection pump, or the injectors. Since they are all pretty expensive I'm hoping to narrow the problem down some before I start throwing money at parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my experience with the Diesel Purge, I'm thinking that the problem may be fuel related – I've read that ULSD fuel doesn't lubricate the way older fuels did and this car is pre-ULSD so it seems like that could be a problem. I'm currently running &lt;a href=&quot;http://stanadyneadditives.com/performance-formula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stanadyne Performance Formula&lt;/a&gt; which VW recommends, but I can't tell if it makes a difference or not. They also make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://stanadyneadditives.com/lubricity-formula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lubricity Formula&lt;/a&gt;, but it is not available locally, so I haven't tried it yet. Thinking it is fuel related has me leaning towards either the injection pump or the injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping for some ideas/knowledge about what could be going on. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the symptoms represent a failure mode of any of the components?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it likely that improvement from running on straight Diesel Purge could be had with an additive at normal dosages?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suggestions for further troubleshooting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other possible causes of the problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T21:15:40.163" Title="Troubleshooting Smoking Diesel (2002 VW ALH TDI)" Tags="|vw|troubleshooting|diesel|tdi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T02:23:29.017" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Mazda Navajo SUV I just purchased, it has a 5 speed manual transmission with 4wd but the 4wd to my knowledge does not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove it around the first few days I had it and it drove fine except for the whining I kept hearing from the tranny in certain gears. Went to drive it the other day and noticed after putting it in gear and letting off the clutch, it did not move, and along with that it hardly wants to go in gear, and once I do get it in gear and let off the clutch the motor keeps running as if it was in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I in need of a new tranny, clutch or throw out bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19572" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T09:39:56.123" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T09:39:56.123" Title="1991 Mazda Navajo clutch issue" Tags="|ford|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T03:25:01.027" Score="5" ViewCount="6294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a leak on a friend's tire along where it meets the rim. I was hoping it was going to be on the threaded mating surface because then I would just plug it myself and then pump it all at home. Is there any way to fix this all at home without going to a shop that has a tire installation tool? Can I just deflate the tire to the point where I can detach it from the rim and then apply some sealant and pump it back up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow marks are pointing where the bubbles were coming out at the rim when I did a water test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZCosv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZCosv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2618" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T06:52:04.533" Title="How to reseal tire where it meets rim?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32479" CreationDate="2016-07-06T03:27:53.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you fear that the nut or bolt are seized, and you don't want to damage the part it's attached to with excessive force, you would use a torque wrench to warn you that you are exceeding the torque which might result in breaking the bolt/stud or otherwise damaging the fastener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also useful if you know the fastener will take the force, but for whatever reason you have a substandard tool.  For instance I recently damaged a specialty torx bit when removing seatbelt bolts.  If I had used a torque wrench I would have stopped applying force and used additional methods to loosen the bolt before reapplying the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T03:27:53.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T04:41:57.213" Score="2" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am have a battery capacity of 9 Amps 12 V. Factory electrical system of the bike is DC (horn, indicator, etc.) + AC (head light).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have changed the remaining AC to DC. (light system with relay to DC from AC). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factors light is an HS1 35/35 W and I have changed to HS4 Philips Extreme Vision plus 60 W, and this one will an additional 2 Amps which is the root cause of the entire problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now running all the electrical systems at once (horn, indicator, head light, daytime running light, dashboard light), is likely to draw more than 10 Amps, &#xA;and the horn is not doing its best work. I can hear the reduced output of the horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to increase the battery capacity in Amps. I have seen that, a 10 Amps battery is a different size than my battery, so I cannot accommodate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not willing to degrade the head light either back to AC or to 35 W. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I know, is there any way/work around to make this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T05:05:13.110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T05:06:47.353" Title="Draw more current than its original ouput" Tags="|electrical|battery|headlight|alternator|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32501" CreationDate="2016-07-06T05:06:47.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option might be to change alternators to one with a higher output, the battery really should only be there to handle starting and intermittent loads (like your horn). The bulk of the electrical load should be handled by the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question I'd ask is how much are you loosing by running the headlight on DC (which I think you're converting from an AC output)? The headlight should run find on AC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T05:06:47.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32543" CreationDate="2016-07-06T06:03:46.680" Score="5" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Suzuki SV650S with 15k miles on the clock. Sometimes the gear/shift pedal is really stiff to down or upshift. About 70% of the time it shifts nice and smooth. I haven't been able to identify any pattern to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a go at adjusting the cable at both ends but this made no difference. Oil was changed about a year ago, fully synthetic. I bought the bike couple of years ago and don't remember having such an issue when I bought it, but remember hoping the oil change would help the gear change issue so probably had the problem for around 15 months. Sometimes the stiffness doesn't come for a week or so, sometimes on / off several times a day. I use my bike most days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16097" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T22:39:14.440" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T22:39:14.440" Title="1999 Suzuki SV650S - Intermittent clutch lever stiffness" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|suzuki|sv650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32499" CreationDate="2016-07-06T06:52:04.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can try one of the flat repair product in a can (Fix-a-Flat etc.) They can be a problem with some tire pressure monitoring systems though. The best method is to have a tire shop remove the tire clean the inside of the rim. Then they can apply a product that seals the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T06:52:04.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32493" CreationDate="2016-07-06T07:58:40.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the kind of question that is hard to answer, there are so many possibilities and they depend on the amount and type of sludge and the specific alternator and the phase of the moon and how long the sludge has been there and on and on. If the source who suggested cleaning it seems credible, then your odds are better…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the alternator was damaged by either heat build up due to the sludge or that the sludge is conductive and has shorted it out damaging the regulator and/or rectifier or maybe the windings themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand it is almost certainly worth a try. I'd be tempted to read the answers mentioned in the comment and do some searches then try some of the techniques suggested. I don't think they would be too difficult or expensive – almost certainly less than a new alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T07:58:40.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-07-06T08:12:22.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big difference in what you describe is that with the door open things work and with it closed they don't – that makes me think that the cause could be a wire flexing. I'm not sure what &quot;55 plate&quot; means – but a 1.9 liter TDI sounds more to me like a Mk4 than a Mk6 (know which it is will help with finding the schematic for the door wiring). I'd be suspicious that there might be a single power feed to the door and that the wire has been damaged and only makes contact when the door is open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T08:12:22.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11381" CreationDate="2016-07-06T08:28:33.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure I understand your question.  The A/C on my 1997 Golf has just failed and needs re-gassing.  This will be the first time it's needed re-gassing in the life of the vehicle; 19 years old in two months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting aside personal experience.  Consider strapping a fridge to the bonnet of your car.  Drive it for say 60,000 miles (that's around 5 years ish?), subject it to speed bumps, cobbled streets, cornering forces, braking and the general vibration of the car, not to mention the temperature differences it will experience being outside during summer and winter.  Now check the operation of that fridge.  I am willing to bet it will need expert attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10927" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T15:57:32.170" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T15:57:32.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32397" CreationDate="2016-07-06T08:32:21.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like VW uses three different kinds of &quot;always replace&quot; bolts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque-to-yield (TTY or T2Y) bolts which &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be replaced because they are engineered for one-time use. Reuse of these is risking failure,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolts treated for corrosion resistance (often with a green color), these are being replaced to ensure that the corrosion resistance is not compromised, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolts that are treated with an anti-loosening coating (like LockTite).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that there may also be bolts that are combinations of these three. I suppose if you know for sure which of these categories your bolts fall into you could make an informed decision about 2 and 3 (how large the risk of corrosion is on 2, and using a thread locker on 3), but that is hard to know and VW doesn't differentiate. All in all it seems wiser to take them at their word. In my case there is a reasonably local (one day by UPS Ground) source for the bolts and they cost $5.00 for the set. That seems like a small price to pay for the security in knowing that the bolts will be right. Since the ball joint bolts don't have the obvious reduced shank that many TTY bolts have and since mine had a green coating, it may be that the writers and video makers who didn't recommend replacing them weren't &lt;strong&gt;completely&lt;/strong&gt; irresponsible…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T08:32:21.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:04:31.790" Score="8" ViewCount="1169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea is: every once in a while I use some imaginary smartphone app and record vehicle's engine sound. Then the app should interpret that sound and say OK/NOK. If NOK I drive to be further examined by a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(e.g. when engine works OK it produces nice - steady - sound and when NOK the sound is like random noise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to detect defect of vehicle's engine by examining sound it makes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BTW: recently I had car issue which fits perfectly as problem which could have been avoided if I had such system. When I started the engine, ignition key stayed in position &quot;run engine starter&quot; which I did not spot (normally there is a spring which moves the key back to neutral position, the spring failed). The engine was running a bit louder but I didn't care. About 1 km later engine starter had burned (because it's not supposed to run more than few seconds). Fixing ignition key socket + engine starter was about $250.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14654" LastEditorUserId="14654" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T15:37:21.273" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T15:37:21.273" Title="Is it possible to detect defect of vehicle's engine by examining sound it makes" Tags="|engine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32510" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:52:53.197" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely possible to tell if an engine is unhealthy by the noise it makes.  In many failures, an engine will start to emit unusual noises before any fault codes or warning lights are displayed.  Additionally, certain ancillary equipment such as alternators can give out audible indications that it's failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it would be possible to use the kind of software that music finding services (where you play music and the software tells you the artists name) combined with the kind of software used to tune music instruments could potentially listen in a way that the human ear can't.  If you combined it with some sort of OBD interface option so that the software knew RPM, ambient temperature, etc, etc you could probably do even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue would be that you would likely need a baseline sound for each engine.  I guess you could &quot;train&quot; the software by allowing it to profile the engine several times so it could &quot;learn&quot; the sounds in a similar way to older voice dictation software does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I know I can listen to an engine and hear certain faults such a lose belts, noisy bearings and pre-ignition (pinking).  This is a skill I've honed over a number of years.  There is therefore no theoretical reason why you couldn't write software to do that same.  That said, it would be quite an involved piece of development work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T13:52:53.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:22:21.597" Score="4" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a little over a month, the P0171 (System too Lean) code has been coming up.  My brother has cleaned the throttle and the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.  It then worked fine for a few weeks, then the code came up again and the sputtering started.  He took it to O'Reily Auto Parts.  They had said that since the throttle had been removed, it would need to retrain itself.  He then tried removing it again, and cleaned out other parts in the car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the other day, my car started sputtering again in the morning.  It runs fine the rest of the day.  Also, when I was out of town the other day, my car sat for about 4 days with a low tank of gas.  When we were traveling on the highway, my reduced power engine light came on.  Once I filled up with gas it was fine.  I am just trying to see what could be the problem.  Do I need a new O2 sensor, a change of the manifold gasket, fuel injector cleaning?  Not sure.  The car is good to drive, but would like to fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19583" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T19:27:20.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T19:27:20.003" Title="Chevy 2007 Trailblazer Sputtering in the Morning. Code P0171 has come up in the past" Tags="|chevrolet|maf|trailblazer|code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32510" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:31:34.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible, but probably only to the extent you're proposing: a go/no-go indication. Mechanics will use engine stethoscopes to determine exactly where a noise is coming from, which may tell them whether a rattle is a bad bearing or a loose bolt, or whether a knock is from a piston or a lifter. Some engines have &quot;knock detectors&quot; (actually tuned microphones) built in that send a signal to the ECU to retard the timing if knocking (a sign of detonation, a very harmful condition) is detected. As @Steve Matthews points out, it's likely you'll have to have to have different profiles for each car/engine combination, and any significant aftermarket upgrades may invalidate those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T14:31:34.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32487" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:52:45.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be a rubber plug in an oil pan. If there really is, then you either need a new oil pan (if the plug isn't the drain plug) or a new drain plug. A new drain plug should be available from a dealer or an auto parts store and can easily be replaced. If your oil pan has been damaged and someone repaired it with a rubber plug then you will likely need to have the oil pan replaced, which will be more costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the plug is rubber? Oil drain plugs frequently pick up a black patina due to oil and road dust and may appear to be rubber. If the plug isn't rubber and is simply leaking, then you should be able to tighten it yourself with a wrench. It may be worth taking it to a shop the verify that the plug has a proper copper sealing gasket installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T14:52:45.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31793" CreationDate="2016-07-06T14:53:00.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem, as @SteveRacer suggested, was caused by a faulty camshaft angle/position sensor. Everything we had read about that sensor said the engine would not start or would immediately die if it was bad, so we didn't think to check it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing with a known good part, the engine runs much better and builds boost, but is still running a little rough. New ignition coils are on order and should be in by the weekend, but all signs point to a healthy engine. The aftermarket boost controller was also poorly routed (~5' of extra tubing), which may have contributed to over/underboost situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This must be why they say if you can't afford 2 Skylines, then you can't afford one either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T22:17:13.080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:17:13.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32462" CreationDate="2016-07-06T15:07:04.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try using a multimeter that can measure DC current to see which circuits are drawing power with the ignition off. The radio should draw some, and the alarm (if your car has one) and whatever circuit handles the remote door locks, but other than that there shouldn't be anything drawing any power. Make sure there aren't any lights or anything that aren't shutting off, possibly a boot or bonnet light switch has failed and those lights are always on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you strongly suspect the starter, you should be able to pull the fuse for it before you go inside for the night. If the car starts in the morning (after you replace the fuse, of course!) then it may be you've found your culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T15:07:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32394" CreationDate="2016-07-06T16:04:48.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you want a device to activate when the 'system' is 'armed' and the door is opened.  The easiest way to do this would be to tap into one of the outputs of an existing system, or install an aftermarket alarm system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a completely different system, you will need door pin sensors to determine when the door has opened.  You MIGHT be able to use the existing ones, but that may interfere with signals to the Body Control Module (BCM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To activate/deactivate the alarm, you can use either a keyed switch on the exterior of the vehicle, or a remote system.  Not sure how you would set up a remote exactly, it might be easier to use an aftermarket alarm system.  Alternately, look around at Arduino, xbee, wireless hobby kit stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what the system activates...  Anything physically dangerous is considered a 'booby trap' and illegal.  You may be able to get away with a really loud horn/alarm.  The best would be a video camera to record the thief.  With the right equipment, you might be able to have it send you an alert when the alarm is triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what will happen with a 'false positive' when you forget to disable the alarm.  You don't want to harm yourself, your girlfriend, her family, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the radio, you may be able to secure it better so you need to remove a lot of the interior to get it out.  This may lead to them just breaking more of your car trying to get it out.  A removable face plate can be somewhat of a deterrent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old cell phone, you can set it up so you can track it.  Leave it in the car, track it, notify the police.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about them stealing the car, you can put an additional switch on the start relay.  Put a button under that dash that you need to press while turning the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T16:04:48.170" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T16:14:54.553" Score="5" ViewCount="5890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my 2014 Hyundai Elantra running with the heat on for about 80 minutes (having intended only 30 or so), with the intention of helping dry out the backseat after an incident with a rainstorm and a partially open rear window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I returned to the car, it has died and now I can't turn it over or start it - I had half a tank of gas and I can't imagine that I used up all the gas.  Is there any way that it drained down the battery (even while running) to the point where it now can't start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure whether to simply be asking co-workers for a jump start or to be looking for a ride to a gas station; I don't think it's giving me an accurate gas reading since it won't turn over or start.  Key fob won't open trunk either so it does seem like the battery is drained all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19585" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T17:18:07.317" Title="Left car running with heat on; now won't start - need help diagnosing situation" Tags="|battery|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32518" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:18:07.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dead battery or a weak/dead alternator are the usual suspects with these symptoms. Here's what you should do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get yourself a $15 multimeter (WalMart has them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set it to &quot;VDC20&quot; and put the leads on your battery terminals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A healthy battery will read 12.4V or higher, anything less than 11.8V will be insufficient to start the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are reading less than 5-6V, your battery is completely dead and needs to be replaced. Anything above 5-6V but less than 12V, your battery is just drained and needs a boost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a boost or new battery, get the car started with everything else off (lights, heater, rear defrost, radio) and measure again. A healthy alternator will get your battery reading about 14V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on all your lights, heater full-blast, rear defrost and radio and measure again. A healthy alternator will get your battery reading about 13V.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If either of your tests with the car on are reading lower than these numbers, you have a bad or weak alternator and should have it replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T17:18:07.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32445" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:42:19.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be for modern car engines.  This does not necessarily include motorcycle, 2 stroke, or equipment (lawn mower), etc..  This is based on what I've seen so there may be other examples I am not aware of or have forgotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cylinder head is installed on top of the block.  There are a few common parts on all cylinder heads.  Intake ports, Exhaust ports, combustion chambers, valves and valve springs.  There are also passages for oil and coolant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves will be in the cylinder head.  They are held in place with the valve spring.  You can see the valve stems and valve springs if you remove the valve cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves are opened by the camshaft and closed by the valve spring.  The camshaft is typically in 1 of 3 locations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the block.  In this case there is a lifter that rides on the cam shaft lobes, a push rod, and a rocker.  The cam pushes the lifter, which pushes the push rod, this pushes up on one side of the rocker, which pushes down on the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the head, next to the valves.  This setup has the cam, rocker, and at some point a lifter.  The cam pushes the rocker, which opens the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the head, directly over the valves.  In this configuration, there is a bucket over the valve and valve spring that cam touches directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T17:42:19.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T18:17:30.960" Score="8" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dealing with a car that starts and then suddenly dies. I replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor with a new one, and now it stays on until I press the gas pedal. The throttle body is clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the car acted up, the spark plugs had a nice white/normal look at the tip, now they're fouled. Car lets out a little black smoke, and I do recall the car seeming to have unsteady throttle response from one day to the next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I'm broke, and my motorcycle needs repairs also, and I'm in a pretty bad spot, so I need to make every dollar count. Another concern is that it could be the throttle body, but more signs point towards the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). I'm just wondering if anyone has knowledge enough to know that the FPR is the problem &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a convertible 1999 Volvo c70 2.3 t5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19589" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:25:06.963" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T12:06:01.753" Title="Anyone have experience with a faulty fuel press? Regulator?" Tags="|fuel-system|volvo|maf|smoke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T19:28:51.303" Score="12" ViewCount="2814" Body="&lt;p&gt;My antifeeeze keeps leaking out and I was told that I had a hole in my coolant flange, so when I was calling to see how much it would be to get fixed no one knew what I was talking about. I am a woman and I have no idea what I am talking about. I know some things but not this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I want to know is, what is the real name for it. Is it the coolant flange or the water pump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an '03 VW Passat 1.8T. I know it sits behind the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19590" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:16:18.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T17:14:09.813" Title="Coolant Flange - What is it really called?" Tags="|engine|vw|part-identification|passat|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-06T19:40:02.650" Score="6" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the timing chain because of what I thought was excessive play. The new aftermarket one seems to have as much play in it as the other one. Is this the correct chain? Or is this a normal deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19591" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T20:35:46.813" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:27:31.857" Title="1995 4.3 Vortec w/balance shaft timing chain" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|timing-set|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4002" CreationDate="2016-07-06T19:43:10.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might find this post about &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=305248&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dynamic EGR Control for TDIs&lt;/a&gt; on the TDI Club forums by Mark at Malone Tuning interesting. Mark reports on his experiments with the EGR system on a 2006 TDI. He reports that the stock EGR settings resulted in a faster warm up (less wear on the engine) and better fuel economy than he got with the EGR deleted or dialed back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EGR system does lead to carbon deposits in the intake and these can be greatly reduced by cutting back on the EGR amount after the engine is warmed up. He claims that maintains the environmental and longevity benefits of the EGR will minimizing the carbon build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;strongly&lt;/strong&gt; recommend against doing an &quot;EGR valve delete&quot; the EGR valve assembly includes and anti-shudder valve that also gives you a way to shutdown a runaway engine. Runaways are rare, but if not controlled they usually result in substantial engine damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T19:43:10.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4060" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:38:57.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When getting new oil/tires rotated at your dealer make sure you check the lugs&#xA;on all tires. Mechanics like to use a torque stick to secure lugs. This device&#xA;fits on the end of an air driver—the loud whoosh noise heard in repair shops—most shops have a stick set that goes from 40lb-100lb and are color coded for different torque strengths. Sometimes a tech will use the wrong torque stick they use a 90LB (yellow stick) on a lug nut that's only supposed to be torqued to 80LB(orange stick)Trying to get more paying customers out the door, they get careless. Sometimes a over torqued lugs (especially drive wheels) will fail. Tires come off. My daughter was lucky. Buy a torque wrench and learn how to use it. Regards, BB       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19592" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T21:38:57.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32522" CreationDate="2016-07-06T21:44:04.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: it's really called a coolant flange.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had also never heard of a coolant flange but it turns out that it's a real part and, based on the video, it's a part that fails around 120K miles (which sounds reasonable for the age of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0SasjicH6Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An example of a coolant flange repair.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of coolant flanges (which seem to be common for Audis and VWs) can be found by searching the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=vw%20coolant%20flange%202003%20passat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shopping side of Google&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree with the position in the video that you should probably purchase VW parts for the coolant side (considering that the engine needs coolant to live and it's under pressure for much of its life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T19:43:55.610" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T19:43:55.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32523" CreationDate="2016-07-06T22:06:02.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the two different types of timing sets, one for the balance shaft design and one with the regular design. I've not dealt directly with the balance shaft, but I'm not seeing a huge difference between the two sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, the 4.3L V6 is basically a small block chevy (SBC) 350 V8 with two cylinders lopped off. I believe regular timing set can be used in either application (V8 or V6). I'm not sure if you can use the balance shaft in either, but would doubt it. When I've done timing chains or cams on an SBC, there is a little slop in the chain, but not a whole bunch. I mean, when you tighten the chain on one side, you can move the chain a little on the other (I'd give it an approximate of 1/8&quot; maybe a tad more ... I've never measured, so don't know exactly). This would be with a standard link type chain. If you went high tech with a double-roller, you'd have a bit more slop in it than that, but not by much. This makes me wonder if something else is going on which may be causing the slop, but I cannot think of what that may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T22:27:31.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:27:31.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32510" CreationDate="2016-07-06T22:12:36.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must agree there are definitely a few faults which you could identify just by installing a specially created app that would use a microphone, maybe camera, and maybe that sensor which indicates the position of your phone (rotation, shaking). Could help with a few faults, but unfortunately it couldn't be your definite verdict for an engine condition. That could be possible whining bearings, worn v-belt or tensioner, cam-belt, cam-chain, chain/belt tensioner, valve clearance, misfire, etc.. AND NOT FAULTY HORN!!! :D But it won't read thing like high fuel pressure, low oil pressure, blown head gasket, leaking water pipe, missing rear left wheel or burning passenger seat :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:12:36.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32462" CreationDate="2016-07-06T23:23:01.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the charging system load tested and make sure the battery is fully charged 12.5v or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid disconnecting parts or pulling fuses until you can identify the source of the draw. There are too many computers and circuits that stay active when you turn off the ignition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a multimeter voltage drop test the fuses by placing the leads across the exposed terminals of the fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://info.powerprobe.com/fusechartsdownload&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A link to a millivolt to milliamp chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally when doing a voltage drop test you'll want to have the doors open so you can access the interior fuse boxes. Depending on what type of door switch you have you can either flip the door latch to the closed position or if you have the plunger style switch gain access to the connector and jump the two pins. You also want to wait for at least an hour to make sure computers are asleep and any circuits have shutdown before doing any parasitic drain voltage drop testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T23:23:01.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32495" CreationDate="2016-07-07T00:02:30.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at a ground distribution diagram the cruise, head lights and power door locks share some things in common. Given that some things I assume work and others that obviously don't, it would be isolated to a single branch of the circuit. Unfortunately these splices are located in the dash and the dash may need to be removed or pulled back to gain access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txgAl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txgAl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ID, IG is the ground to chassis you'd want to look at. And J/B 3 would be the next place to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy place to check the cruise control system would be at the cruise control computer in the right kick panel. Look for ground on pin 16 (white/black). If you don't have ground on pin 16 gain access to J/B 3 and do a continuity test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect something in J/B 3 has gone bad or the ground on IG has come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T00:02:30.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32440" CreationDate="2016-07-07T00:38:25.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way I know of to remove a bolt like this is to use a ratchet with (preferably) an impact 6 point socket.  Put it on the bolt and hit the ratchet with a large hammer. One or two good solid hits will often times break it loose. You can also hit the head of the bolt with the hammer, just a couple of taps, not hard swings can also help loosen it. Do NOT use a wrench. A ratchet will bounce back and spin if the bolt doesn't come loose. A wrench will fly accross the room and hurt someone or something. It may take several hits but it usually works. Honda crankshaft pulley bolts won't come loose with an impact but will come loose this way. Let me know what works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T00:38:25.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-07-07T01:24:47.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen vehicles with multiple alternators, such as BASS competitions. I can hook up 2 alternators to my car but have seen 10 to 15 alternators hooked up to the subwoofer competition trucks. There would have to be enough power to run a small 5kbtu rv ac unit through your sunroof (with a custom painted fiberglass roof scoop to cover the whole unit ofcourse, allowing adequate air flow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 105 amp alternators, big high amp inverter, custom capacitor setup for the surges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be nice for turbo cars that have to run a big front mount intercooler. I would sacrifice 50 to 75 pounds no problem for ice cold ac in Phoenix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19595" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T01:24:47.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32449" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:50:08.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't an entire solution, but your test of the hazard lamps leads me to believe the problem is within the following diagram... and most likely, from the view of my sofa, the multifucntion switch &quot;stalk&quot;.  @rpmerf's comment suggestion is the way to pursue evaluation of this suspect switch.  I would stil double-check fuse #20, as a failure here (even burned or loose contacts with a good fuse) would create this same condition.  Hazards will run always (through fuse #4), but turn signals only with a key in &quot;run&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/198Jw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/198Jw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T02:50:08.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32542" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:58:28.030" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this truck broken and I don't know any of its history other than it has a blown head gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to be diligent about labeling things and it's possible I labeled this but the tape fell off. It seems a little rough on the end and I'm a little worried it got snapped off? But I imagine if someone snapped it it would be more jagged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I don't think I removed the hose that goes to it and I'm not sure where that hose would go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yeB92.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yeB92.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mystery thing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19596" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T20:16:14.293" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T20:16:14.293" Title="1999 Ford Ranger - Removing head gasket and found mystery coolant line (?) coming out of firewall. What is this?" Tags="|ford|coolant|part-identification|ranger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32539" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:59:18.253" Score="7" ViewCount="4186" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife was driving our 96 Ford Windstar recently and she said right after she hit a bump in the road the ac stopped working and the instrument panel lights went out.  I found the fuse from the wiring diagram and replaced it bringing the instrument panel back since it's on that circuit.  However, every time the ac is turned on, the fuse blows, otherwise it's fine.  I did pull the fan belt and the compressor clutch turns freely, so it's not a mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does this always mean it is a short or can a bad switch or relay cause this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the best way to track this with a multimeter and ciruit tester or should I invest in another tool for this kind of work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aftermath:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to manually trace the circuit and figured out that there was a cable bundle leading to the a/c cycling switch where the problem was, based on directions from Ben's answer.  So I tied it up snug and out of the way using a plastic tie which solved the issue. For now I'm just doing the jerry rigging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did pick up a Centech Cable Tracker from Harbor Freight which was rated very high for tracking shorts inside cable bundles, including computer cables, vehicle cables, and phone lines.  It was $25.00 USD, so it was worth the small investment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to rig up something for a fuse socket connection or buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001TCXOTW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CT6100 from Amazon&lt;/a&gt; so you have something to attach to the fuse via the tester's aligator clips.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="24838" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T07:38:11.610" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T07:38:11.610" Title="Does a constant blown fuse always indicate a short?" Tags="|electrical|ac|fuse|short|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32440" CreationDate="2016-07-07T03:45:52.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need a clutch basket removal tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool will allow the inner and outer clutch basket to become locked together in order for you to remove the bolt that is affixed to your transmission primary shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pE7v4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pE7v4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a relatively cheap tool.  I recommend you use an air impact to remove the bolt.  Upon tightening you will want to use a torque wrench and lock your crankshaft on the stator side with a wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motion%20pro%20clutch%20basket%20removal%20tool&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=653&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiUnvu5t-DNAhXCdj4KHRPvA9oQ_AUIBygA&amp;amp;dpr=1.5#q=clutch%20basket%20removal%20tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are some selections to source the tool from.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T03:45:52.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32537" CreationDate="2016-07-07T04:29:30.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fuse is blowing as soon as you perform an action it's a short to ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multimeter won't do much good in this situation. It'll come down to wiring diagrams and visual inspection of the harness and connectors on the circuit. Unless you have a fancy tool that will find the short for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like fuse 21 powers a bunch of stuff, but since the fuse only blows when you turn the a/c on that narrows it down quite a bit. If you look at an a/c wiring diagram you'll see fuse 21 only powers the blower motors, blend door motor, the constant control relay module and the a/c pressure switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try unplugging the low side a/c pressure switch as it's the easiest to access and see if the fuse still blows. You may want to use a circuit breaker while testing. This will tell you if the problem exists south of the switch as I assume the wiring harness will run along the subframe and up to the CCRM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuse stops blowing then it's time to follow the harness to the high pressure switch and from there to the CCM and PCM. Check for rub through, corrosion, obvious breaks in the wire etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T04:36:26.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T04:36:26.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32559" CreationDate="2016-07-07T05:08:15.497" Score="3" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I came to America for two months and quickly realised that &lt;em&gt;everyone drives&lt;/em&gt;. So, since I hadn't budgeted for a car I bought a cheap 1996 Toyota Avalon. Trouble is, my naivety led me to buy a car without a &quot;SMOG&quot; (and it failed when I had one). I've since learnt that it must have one in order to fully register the car and the first of possibly many issues with this is that there is no check engine light! So I'll probably have the mechanic fix it but I was wondering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FWCB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FWCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota Dash&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How might one remove the dash board in order to access the check engine light bulb?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious as to whether it is friction fit or screws or something else. Just general guidelines or approach would be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14003" LastEditorUserId="14003" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T05:15:14.390" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T20:04:40.920" Title="1996 Toyota Avalon How to remove a dashboard?" Tags="|toyota|cel|avalon|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T06:01:09.343" Score="1" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed the rings and valve seals on my Renault Kangoo 1.5dci, but the engine is still smoking. In addition, the car doesn't start with the key - you have to add quick start in the air intake or push start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried replacing the glow plugs and the controller, however, the problem persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19597" LastEditorUserId="28667" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T11:18:19.970" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T11:18:19.970" Title="Renault kangoo 1.5dci smoke" Tags="|engine|renault|smoke|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2016-07-07T06:11:33.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see what appears to be a A/C evaporator coil assembly housing based on the large aluminum tube at the top and a smaller one at the bottom. I would say that is the drain hole for the condensation to drain out. No hose required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T06:11:33.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32503" CreationDate="2016-07-07T07:14:13.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The clutch cable needs lubrication from time to time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside your clutch cable lubricants can become gummed up as well can run out of the cable over time depending on the type of lubrication you are using within the cable.  If the cable has not been lubricated for 15,000 miles chances are that the lubrication has lost much of it's friction reduction properties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest  you remove the cable completely and get some proper lubricant to push into the cable housing.  I prefer non-petroleum lubricants that are frequently called '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=motion%20pro%20clutch%20basket%20removal%20tool&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=653&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiUnvu5t-DNAhXCdj4KHRPvA9oQ_AUIBygA&amp;amp;dpr=1.5#q=dry%20lubricants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dry lubricants&lt;/a&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dry lubricant uses graphite with a very 'thin' petroleum carrier that will evaporate only leaving behind the graphite.  The benefits of dry lubricants are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less waste&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less petroleum (because organisms hate the petroleum)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less greasy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less leaking all over everything (less messy)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More better&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite is an excellent petroleum based (greasy and terrible) grease replacement for lubrication duty in cable housings.  My very subjective favorite dry lubricant for cables is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=dri%20slide&amp;amp;oq=dri%20slide&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1605j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a plethora of others as provided my initial link.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables require lubrication and maintenance whether it's a Jeep Cherokee or an SV650S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lubricants are inexpensive and easy to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lubricants provide an excellent low friction solution for cables with housings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate that cable and extend it's life by reducing the friction that you complain of when using the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T00:37:37.837" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T00:37:37.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32551" CreationDate="2016-07-07T08:34:48.683" Score="7" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99 Nissan Almera ( similar to the Sentra ) with a GA16DE engine and RS5F31A manual transmission.  I quite likely have a bad fifth gear synchronizer, and am trying to find what part to order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; which has allot of interactive Nissan OEM diagrams and found this breakout of the transmission internals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npHfy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npHfy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1999-nissan-sentra-b14u/transmission-gear.html?Filter=(2=GA16DE)&amp;amp;PNC=32267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an interactive version of the diagram&lt;/a&gt; which pops up part names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering which parts are the synchronizers, and what name they're calling them by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:20:21.383" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:20:21.383" Title="Which parts in the diagram are syncronizers?" Tags="|nissan|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4258" CreationDate="2016-07-07T09:28:07.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you could buy an amplifier, you won't save money that way vs. buying a simple car radio. $100 gets you a unit with a built-in amplifier (17W per channel) and an interface for connecting your phone. It also offers a convenient way to change the volume (instead of having to unlock the phone and messing with a touchscreen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amplifiers are generally intended for audio geeks and are more expensive. They also take up more space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid running the battery down, just switch off the radio. No external switches necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T09:28:07.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32521" CreationDate="2016-07-07T10:36:39.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice engine you got there! While your issues do sound like a MAF problem (check the MAF readings via OBD!), some turbocharged Volvos are notorious for fuel pressure regulator issues. Basically the regulator diaphragm ruptures and fuel gets into the pressure regulation vacuum hose. Typically this causes poor starting (especially cold) because of an excessively rich mixture. Black smoke out of the exhaust you noticed supports this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a simple way to make sure that your fuel pressure regulator on your T5 is toast: after the engine has been running for a while, remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and look if it's leaking fuel from the regulator side with the engine running. The hose is on there tight with the vacuum present, you might need to turn off the engine, remove the hose, plug the engine side to prevent a vacuum leak and start it back up again. If you see fuel dripping/spitting - the regulator diaphragm is ruptured and you need a new regulator. Don't make quick conclusions if you see nothing, sometimes it takes a while for the fuel to show up. If you noticed a strong fuel smell from the hose - that is an immediate bad sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmx5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmx5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vacuum port&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are somehow unable to carry out this simple test you could also connect a pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and check if the pressure maintained by the fuel pressure regulator is correct. Value should be stamped on the FPR itself or can be found online (probably around 3 bar). This value should only be true when you prime the system without starting (ignition on) or with the FPR vacuum hose disconnected, otherwise pressure will be altered by vacuum/boost. If the pressure is completely wrong, your FPR is probably dead. Unless your pump is in a horrible condition, but I'd say it's much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T12:06:01.753" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T12:06:01.753" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T10:45:17.043" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what type of camshaft location is most common in most vehicles? Is it an OHV/DOHV or OHC/DOHC/SOHC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:11:25.903" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:11:25.903" Title="What Type Of Camshaft Location is most common?" Tags="|engine-theory|camshaft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32547" CreationDate="2016-07-07T10:57:02.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parts labelled RING-BAULK (32604 in your image) are the synchronizers. Do a search for Baulk Ring and you will find some descriptions.  For example - &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=DoYaRsNFlEYC&amp;amp;pg=PA286&amp;amp;lpg=PA286&amp;amp;dq=BAULK+ring&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=3PXYSDFriB&amp;amp;sig=WHMXOOAG06AIShqixrw1w1K1hro&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiszKbql-HNAhVH9mMKHX3cAf4Q6AEISjAK#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=BAULK%20ring&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=DoYaRsNFlEYC&amp;amp;pg=PA286&amp;amp;lpg=PA286&amp;amp;dq=BAULK+ring&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=3PXYSDFriB&amp;amp;sig=WHMXOOAG06AIShqixrw1w1K1hro&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiszKbql-HNAhVH9mMKHX3cAf4Q6AEISjAK#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=BAULK%20ring&amp;amp;f=false&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T11:13:55.147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:13:55.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32550" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:21:18.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all DOHV is not in production period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cheap engines especially ones with lower capacity and power outputs use SOHC configuration like the suzuki 1.2L engine or G13B which are all sub 1.8L engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you take the raw count, then I would say, yes the SOHC is the most produced configuration since 90% of motorcycles in developing countries like India and Vietnam have a huge number of single cylinder SOHC configured bikes and mopeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Second most Common configuration is the DOHC setup which almost all of the modern cars use and is pretty much the standard for automotive engines apart from some chevy engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third popular alternative , which is dying and is in its final stages is the OHV configuration which only a few Chevy and GM engines use now a days.Needless to say that some shipping engines and electricity generators use OHV today due to its advantages and since the generators run at a constant speed OHVs do the job best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:21:18.563" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32550" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:22:12.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are all common in different configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OHV is most common in V style engines, since you can have a single cam in the middle of the block.  This weighs less than having a cam over each head, plus the belt/chain to drive it.  This is most common in large 'truck' engines that need power at low RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SOHC is common on all engines.  SOHC is used typically on &quot;low end&quot; economy engines, or engines that need to make max power at lower RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOHC is also common on all engines.  These engines tend to produce power at higher RPM as most DOHC engines have 4 valves per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:22:12.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32558" CreationDate="2016-07-07T11:48:06.487" Score="6" ViewCount="1262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are different types if engines. All with different set-ups and designs. But do most engines have a cylinder head? And how many? I know inline engines have one, V-lines have two and radial engines usually have one for each cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="16969" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:06:12.187" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T11:39:26.120" Title="Do Most Common Engines Have A Cylinder Head?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32266" CreationDate="2016-07-07T12:05:36.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm selfanswering here just to add the way came to handle this. It absolutly is based on Applemans answer and I had put it as comment, but comments aren't welcomed for answers, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually graping with my right hand the steering wheel to pull my self a bit closer to the door, after that graping the doors case with my left hand to pull me out while still using the right hand to stabelize my posture. This avoids anycontact to the plastic part and neither the wheel nor the door is broken yet :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15275" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T12:05:36.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32512" CreationDate="2016-07-07T12:50:52.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too lean = too little fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably try the fuel injector cleaning (Techron or comparable product) first and see if that clears up the issue. Next try swapping the fuel filter  since this is usually a pretty simple/inexpensive repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry, can't comment with current reputation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T12:50:52.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32554" CreationDate="2016-07-07T13:23:32.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All piston engines must have a cylinder head.  The head is on top of the block and forms the top of the combustion chamber.  The head is also where the valves are.  The valves and chambers in the head allow air/fuel to enter the combustion chamber and exhaust to leave the combustion chamber.  The head is removable to allow for assembly and maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T13:23:32.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32540" CreationDate="2016-07-07T13:26:24.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a few screws holding the black trim in marked J in the diagram as well as two screws in the upper portion of the trim. Remove the trim and any connectors. There will be four screws holding in the cluster. Remove those and you can pull the cluster out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jfeU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jfeU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T20:04:40.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T20:04:40.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32554" CreationDate="2016-07-07T13:48:22.643" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @rpmerf says, virtually all piston engines have at least one cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most engines will have one head per bank of cylinders, as you suggest, though some have more - IIRC some of the aircooled VW engines had one head per cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however some that don't have any - in opposed-piston engines, such as the two-stroke &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napier_Deltic&quot;&gt;Napier Deltic&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commer_TS3&quot;&gt;Commer TS3&lt;/a&gt;, each combustion chamber is shared by two opposing cylinders, so each effectively acts as the head for the other. These will then have the valves in the sides of the cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want someting even crazier, have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free-piston_engine&quot;&gt;Free Piston Engines&lt;/a&gt;, which don't even have a crankshaft...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T13:48:22.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32563" CreationDate="2016-07-07T14:59:53.030" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a 2006 petrol Indica Xeta,and changed the normal radiator water with valvoline super koolextra. After 50km of driving, I kept the vehicle in my car porch. After 5 days When I opened the door for a new trip,I have noticed that the newly filled coolant was flowing down into the driver side platform. It was about 1 litres. I have add normal water in to the reservoir and started the engine. My radiator fan is working normally, but higly hot air is comming from the engine room and the water circulation is normal. After stopping the engine, I have noticed that some type of clear water drops coming down to the ground through the outlet hose from the black coloured box located near the clutch pedal, inside the vehicle. the black box was hot while the engine running. please tell me that how the coolant leaked in to inside the car and how can it rectified ?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19604" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T09:34:35.643" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T09:34:35.643" Title="Indica petrol 2006,coolant leakege" Tags="|cooling-system|hvac|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32562" CreationDate="2016-07-07T15:08:25.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the leak is only inside the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 tubes that allow the coolant to flow in and out through the firewall. These tubes send heated coolant to the heater core inside your dash to provide the inside of your car with heat. If it is leaking inside the car, then either one of these tubes has a hole in it, or your heater core is has a leak. (its probably more likely the heater core is leaking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="10790" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T21:48:03.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T21:48:03.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T16:09:54.797" Score="8" ViewCount="13207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am kind of confused when it comes to this topic. I think I kind of understand primary balance. Which is the back and forth rotation of the pistons. But I don't fully understand it or even get secondary engine balance at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:05:23.170" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T11:11:28.430" Title="What are primary &amp; secondary engine balance?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32564" CreationDate="2016-07-07T16:32:11.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way of explaining it would be to say primary, first-order, balance is related to things that vibrate the engine at a frequency equal to the engine speed (e.g., 1000 Hz at 1000 RPM). Secondary, second-order, balance is related to things that have a frequency of twice the engine speed and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In common usage, primary usually refers to sinusoidal and secondary non-sinusoidal vibrations. Of course this all begs the question of what causes the different types of vibrations…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a typical engine with pistons connected to the crankshaft with connecting rods. While in operation the pistons drive the crankshaft, it may be easier to understand what is happening by thinking about what happens as the crankshaft rotates – we'll see that the vertical movement of the piston is not equal as the piston moves the 180º from 90º after top dead center (ATDC) to 90º before top dead center (BTDC) as it is when it moves the 180º from 90ª BTDC to 90ª ATDC. This difference creates unequal speeds of moving masses and therefore unequal vibrations. Secondary balance is related to these vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to prove this to yourself is to go back to high school geometry and the Pythagorean theorem (&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;2 + &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;2 = &lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt;2, where &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; are the short sides of right triangle and c is the hypotenuse (the long side)). In thinking about what is happening as the crank turns consider the connecting rod to be &lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt;, the crank throw to be &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; and the displacement of the piston to be &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;. We can use a 3-4-5 right triangle to make this easy to think about in our heads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At 90º BTDC or ATDC we have a right triangle formed by the horizontal throw of the crank (&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; which we can assign to 3 in this case), the vertical displacement of the piston from the center of the crank (&lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; which is 4), and the connecting rod itself (&lt;strong&gt;c&lt;/strong&gt; which will be 5). &lt;strong&gt;So the piston is at a position of 4 units above the center of the crank.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At bottom dead center (BDC), where the crank throw is straight down, the piston displacement is 2 (length of connecting rod &lt;strong&gt;minus&lt;/strong&gt; the crank throw). &lt;strong&gt;The piston has moved down two units from the 90º position of 4.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At top dead center (TDC), the crank throw is now straight up and the piston's displacement is 8 (length of connecting rod &lt;strong&gt;plus&lt;/strong&gt; the crank throw). &lt;strong&gt;The piston has moved up four units from the 90º position of four.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unequal distance in the two halves of the crank's rotation translates into unequal piston speeds and thus unequal inertia and vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T16:51:53.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T16:51:53.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32554" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:04:15.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common piston engines all have cylinder heads (in the sense of a removable component that closes off the cylinder bore opposite the piston forming the combustion chamber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All internal combustion engines need &quot;something&quot; like a cylinder head to provide something for the expanding gasses to push against and cause the piston or rotor to move – but that &quot;something&quot; doesn't have to be the conventional head that we usually think of – it could be another piston in opposed piston designs (which are used in heavy industrial and marine engines, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fairbanksmorse.com/engines/opposed-piston-model-38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fairbanks Morse 38 8-1/8&lt;/a&gt; diesel engine is still in production), or the head and block could be a single unit, and then there are rotary engines…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable person could argue that the &quot;non-head&quot; designs are not &quot;common engines.&quot; However one of the wonderful things about machinery is the way it displays the range of human creativity and design possibilities. It is also cool the way designs that once seemed to have died out come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T17:11:30.543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T17:11:30.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32570" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:16:27.253" Score="15" ViewCount="5494" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the point of having a firing order? I read that it helps balance out the power so as not to be too much on one side if the crankshaft, but why do we have such a specific order? If that was the case could I have the firing order in a 4 cylinder engine be 1-4-2-3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T17:41:50.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T01:08:41.720" Title="Why do Internal Combustion Engines have specific &quot;Firing Orders&quot;?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|firing-order|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:38:29.870" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finding it hard to understand why I need run a 12v wire as well as use a Quadlock to ISO converter.  The current VW radio clearly gets power from its connector and is able to tell if the engine is running.  Yet the converter leads need to be connected to 12V power as well as the Quadlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1201" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T17:59:23.100" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T14:15:30.487" Title="Installing a 3rd party radio in a VW Polo" Tags="|electrical|vw|audio|polo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32567" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:51:03.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends if you are asking from the point of view of an engine designer or someone trying to maintain or troubleshoot an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the point of view of a mechanic firing order tells you the order in which the cylinders are &lt;strong&gt;ready&lt;/strong&gt; to fire – when each one is on its compression stroke with the valves closed and a charge of fuel. That's important if you're hooking up spark plug wires (or fuel injector lines on a diesel with a separate pump) or trying to diagnose a rough running engine or one that won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the point of view of an engine designer, I suspect that, some of the considerations are around concerns like you mentioned – managing stresses and vibrations and maybe also trying to do that without surprising the folks who will work on the engine later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your question about other orders, I think – in theory at least, that the designer can have any order s/he wants. The mechanic on the other hand has to follow the order that was designed into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T17:51:03.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32567" CreationDate="2016-07-07T17:58:45.127" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple firing orders for &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; engine configurations, especially in the V8 realm.  A Ford smallblock fires 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2, while the same displacement modern modular Ford V8 fires 1-5-4-8-7-2-6-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a huge wiki about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firing_order&quot;&gt;Firing Order&lt;/a&gt; which contains a vast number of workable arrangements, even across the exact same cylinder configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question, firing order is usually decided to minimize potentially destructive vibrations and mechanical forces that would result if the torque pulses on the crankshaft throws were to harmonize.  A similar note is that you will always find engines with a number of cylinders that is evenly divisible into 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation.  4,5,6,8,10,12 are all fine.  7,11 and 13 are not.  The exact explanation is beyond me, but it has to do with vibrations and orders of harmonics in combination slider-crank mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T17:58:45.127" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32572" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:07:59.947" Score="8" ViewCount="17075" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ubiquitous advisories and legislations against releasing A/C refrigerant into the atmosphere are well known - if you need to discharge R-134a or R-22 from your A/C system, have the gas evacuated by a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do the professionals do with the gas though? Is there some chemical process to help convert it into something less harmful for the environment? If so, I'd like to know the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T18:08:02.113" Title="How do A/C professionals dispose of refrigerant?" Tags="|ac|r134a|environment|r12|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32571" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:39:40.387" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got my Refrigerant Handling Certification from MACS many years ago, we were sworn to use a proper recycling machine, which captured everything and filtered out air, oils, and moisture.  The refrigerant could then be re-used for the same or different vehicle.  This was the transitional time, and there was much concern of a cheap &quot;retrofit&quot; DIY job creating a mix of R-12 &quot;Freon&quot; and R134a, which no machine could deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When such contaminated refrigerant mixes were discovered, the offending stuff was shipped back to the manufacturer, or one of their agents, and destroyed - I know not by what manner - but I believe it was controlled incineration (Burning R-12 creates a sort of Mustard Gas) and that the process was very, very expensive.  Most cases involved shipping and disposing of the &quot;contaminated&quot; recycling machine as well.  I know many otherwise excellent and devout shops that illegally vented such systems, rather than incur a $10-$20k hazardous waste disposal incident.  In truth, vacuuming for retrofit wasn't enough... there was always some residual chlorinated refrigerant stuck in the mineral oil, and the PAG oil wasn't sufficient viscosity to move it into solution.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with advent of R1234yf, this will eventually put me out of the A/C repair business.  Whether it's flammable or not, as a shadetree independent I simply don't have the resources to buy yet another complete set of tools for dealing with the latest earth-friendly refrigerant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:39:40.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32579" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:01:41.453" Score="10" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: I own a Yamaha XJ6n. This is the first time I'm removing the filter. The last guy who owned this must have screwed it on reaaaal tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My oil filter is refusing to come off. This should be an easy removal, but it really isn't. I've bought an oil filter removal tool (something that fits around the oil filter that your wrench can slot into, same as the guy in this video here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv6gd7E5o2A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv6gd7E5o2A&lt;/a&gt;) and it's actually slipping off the filter rather than the oil filter loosening. Any ideas? Is penetrating fluid okay to use? It wouldn't contaminate anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've already tried the screwdriver &amp;amp; hand-unscrewing route to no avail... this thing is really stuck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ANOTHER EDIT: After being frustated, trying a few different tools, I think I'm going to just jbweld my removal tool onto the filter so that it stops slipping off &#xA;(this is the removal tool btw&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIqF4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIqF4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw it. It was a £5 removal tool. My sanity is worth marginally more than that. I'll let you guys know what happens, thanks to everyone who took the time to answer thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FINAL EDIT: Managed to get it off by jbwelding the socket to it. Even then - had to try 3 attempts: the first 2 times the epoxy cracked and went first! Mad. I think it was the screwdriver-in-the-side that deformed oil filer enough for the socket not to function properly. A heads up, there. I'll give a &quot;accepted answer&quot; to the guy with the most votes currently... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastEditorUserId="15806" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T22:44:18.653" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T06:09:10.960" Title="Oil filter on my motorcycle is not coming off" Tags="|motorcycle|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:10:42.767" Score="6" ViewCount="64691" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter drove her pickup in 3rd gear on the highway. Will it damage the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19612" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T14:47:53.733" Title="Driving in 3rd gear what will it do to the transmission" Tags="|gmc|pick-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32573" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:13:39.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's enough room around the filter and it's a cartridge type, you can actually stab it all the way through with a screwdriver or punch and use that as a lever to turn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do that, try to grab onto it with channel locks or vise grips. Remember that you're throwing the filter away so it doesn't matter if it's squished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's an internal type, I'd use the same method as for any other bolt, heat and penetrating oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15822" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T20:13:39.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32567" CreationDate="2016-07-07T20:26:08.987" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firing order is constrained by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crankshaft geometry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;piston arrangement (inline, V, VR, flat, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two factors will combine to determine when top-dead center (TDC) of each cylinder is achieved with respect to crank angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the firing order is set up to make the ignition occur as regularly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Inline-four example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an animation of a regular flat-plane inline-four:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hytf9.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hytf9.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Inline-4, Flat plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that the middle two cylinders (#2 and #3) move in unison, as do #1 and #4. When #2 and #3 are at TDC, #1 and #4 are at BDC, and vice versa. The two pairs are 180° out of phase. Here is what the piston head travel looks like over the course of a 720° crank duration (single four-stroke cycle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvi64.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvi64.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inline 4 graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding in stars to denote ignition events, it should become obvious why we are limited to what we can use as a firing order. A 1-4-2-3 firing order is infeasible because there is a TDC for #2 and #3 between those of #1 and #4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGeZk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGeZk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Inline 4 graph, with bangs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, there are only two options for firing order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-3-4-2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-2-4-3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever multiple firing orders are possible, engineers will look to other factors, among which are engine balance, vibrations and harmonics that other answers here have alluded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T01:08:41.720" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T01:08:41.720" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32574" CreationDate="2016-07-07T21:20:13.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not. The engine is going to be running faster than normal to make highway speeds in 3rd, if she got going fast enough it was probably pretty loud. Depending on the vehicle there may be a rev limiter to prevent the engine from running at too high a speed. Teach her to hear what the truck sounds like when it is time to shift if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T21:20:13.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32573" CreationDate="2016-07-07T22:02:47.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It must not be the correct size for the filter I'd advise buying something like the CTA-2507.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V41bi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V41bi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will grab the sides of the filter and works with a large number of different filters. I use one of these for any aftermarket filter that may not be the same size as the OE sized cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can use a large pair of channel locks as was suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T22:02:47.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32573" CreationDate="2016-07-07T22:06:17.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YJs0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YJs0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My oil removing tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fits on every known oil filter. Cheap and simple. And never slips. As harder it is tensioned, as harder it will grip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T22:06:17.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T22:20:48.263" Score="4" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, we'll start from the beginning. I saw smoke coming out from under the hood so I opened the hood.  There was coolant passing out a very small pen hole in the top right corner of my radiator.  I bought a repair kit specially designed for my problem applied it exactly as it said.  I waited more then the time stated, and filled the radiator back up.  It seemed to be able to hold water and pressure without leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then drove 10 miles and stopped, however when I stopped, the truck just died, and wouldn't start back up.  I opened the hood, and everything was totally dry. Even my patch spot.  The entire exterior of the radiator was dry, and it even had fluid in overflow clear tank.  However, when I opened the radiator cap and looked inside, it was bone dry! There was no liquid in the radiator at all.  I filled it up again, but the truck won't start. It shakes and runs what little I can get out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help suggestions pointers or info would be a blessing, as this is our only family vehicle which my family relies on more then anything. I'm a fresh home navy veteran and I'm trying to adjust back into daily living, and in need of little guidance to fix this problem so I can be the husband, father, and provider that I need to be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19615" LastEditorUserId="12770" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T19:33:20.573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T22:51:22.553" Title="1999 s10 radiator?, running, coolant system problems" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|radiator|s10|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T04:51:10.430" Score="6" ViewCount="4459" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working with on (diesel) fuel system components the instructions often advise keeping fuel off of rubber parts or cleaning it up promptly if fuel gets on them. OK, I can get behind that, but what I'm wondering is how and how soon? On our cars (VW Jettas) only a trained ferret could get close to some of the places where fuel can drip – and mine won't go near cars…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what works for cleaning up spilled fuel? What I've been doing is to wipe up as much as I can and then I use an engine cleaner (Purple Power is the current favorite) and then hose it off. Is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how long do you have before the fuel starts doing damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T06:59:01.037" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T11:52:03.443" Title="Fuel meets rubber" Tags="|fuel-system|maintenance|diesel|cleaning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32583" CreationDate="2016-07-08T11:52:03.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel does damages rubber. Diesel fuel may cause stripping of certain types of rubber hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose. Thus, it is strongly advised to make sure if the fuel hose to be installed is rated for diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean a diesel spill, you first need to pour lots of warm water on the spill to instantly reduce the risk of rubber damage. Then using a kitty litter, you need to wipe the diesel. Do use small brushes to reach the all the narrow places where the diesel might have spilled. Then again repeat the process of pouring warm water and follow it up with scrubbing with kitty litter and brush. Finally, use a engine wash specced soap with warm water on the rubber parts and scrub generously. In the end, the rubber part should not smell of diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should clean the spilled diesel as soon as possible if it is spilled on a rubber part. However, to be even more critical, you need to know that the warmer the fuel is, the sooner it needs to be cleaned, as it is more likely to damage rubber when it is warm. Thus, as a thumb rule, whenever you will see diesel spill immediately pour warm water over it, as it will reduce the risk of damage drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit off topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever there is a fuel spill, please ensure you follow the legal guidelines of cleaning and sanitizing the place. Fuel spills need to be treated according to government guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy motoring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T11:52:03.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32592" CreationDate="2016-07-08T13:45:31.827" Score="7" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question towards the rewinding of a coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the tech spec of the bike:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery : 9 Ah, 12 V &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Generator : 12V, 100 W &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Fuse: 12V 10A &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike comes with an electrical spec of DC (Indicator, Horn etc.) + AC (only Head Light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to my recent changes in the electrical system, (in which I have made the head light from AC to DC, and changed light from 35/35W to 60/55W), when I turn on all  of the systems, I am consuming 10+ Amps of current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing a full load continuously for 10 seconds I am having some problems with the output of the horn. It is producing a low sound.  When I have used the horn normally with out a full load, then it is working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are my questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; If I have upgraded the coil winding to supply more current or power, will my rectifier be negatively effected by this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt; Will the battery be damaged or become weak if I have supplied more power to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.&lt;/strong&gt; I have heard that coil rewinding will change some ignition timing. Is it that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.&lt;/strong&gt; Do I need to change a fuse, since only a 10A fuse is mentioned in my bike. Will it get fused if more current comes? Is there any way to deal with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5.&lt;/strong&gt; The existing alternator is generating only 100/12 = 8.33 Amps, in which my existing battery is stated to give 9Amps. Is there any particular reason, Why the factory supplied alternator is supposed to give less Ampserage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[PS: I am not interested, in changing the light back to 35W.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**PS: &#xA;Make:- TVS &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Model:- Apache RTR 180 Black Matte Edition &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Year of Mfg: 2015 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Factory Light settings:- HS1 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Upgraded Settings: H4 Philips Extreme Vision Plus &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more clarity and info , I have also uploaded the snap of the bike hand book catalog&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GSIl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GSIl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I kindly know, how can I solve this situation and is there any alternative for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T06:42:27.407" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T06:42:27.407" Title="Does coil rewinding have a negative impact with the existing system?" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|battery|alternator|rectifier|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32590" CreationDate="2016-07-08T15:05:49.570" Score="4" ViewCount="8034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm changing the head gasket on this truck. Here you can see the exhause manifold bolted onto the upper intake, which I am trying to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dk4m9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dk4m9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the reason I would like to remove the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fk90.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fk90.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the bolts that holds the manifold onto the upper intake has had its head snapped off. There is very little clearance around the bolt with the broken head so I can't remove it without taking off the A/C condenser and maybe even the passenger side wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But If I can disconnect the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust I can still pull out the upper intake, with the exhaust manifold still attached. The problem is those bolts are rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8GmF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8GmF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sprayed a ton of PB Blaster on that bolt, hit it with a wire brush, and used a torch on it. It won't budge. So can I just cut it in half with a hack saw? If I do will that separate the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust? I'm hoping that once the bolt is cut in half it will be easier to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Ford/Ranger/Dorman/Exhaust_Manifold/1999/RB674413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an image of the exhaust manifold&lt;/a&gt;. I'm pretty sure I can get away with just cutting through the bolt. Will it be hard to get the bolt out once I cut it? I imagine it will be easier because I'll have it out of the truck and there will be half as much resistence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19613" LastEditorUserId="19613" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T16:12:40.800" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T19:41:45.317" Title="Can I cut these two bolts to remove the exhaust manifold on a 99 Ranger" Tags="|ranger|stuck-bolt|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27208" CreationDate="2016-07-08T16:03:15.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@DucatiKiller sorry for being so late; this is a reply to your comment.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say I have resolved the issue, but yeah, I have improved the condition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think the major problem solver in my case is diligent changing of the Engine oil.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As far as my bike is concerned, &lt;em&gt;for Bajaj Pulsar 220F (2014 Edition), the only recommended oils are Motul 5100 and Motul 3100.&lt;/em&gt; I have been changing them every 1500 Kms; but it's worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next major help for me came from using higher octane petrol.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In India there are two versions of fuel available . The costlier fuel is obviously has high octane value. After keeping a check on my fuel I have noticed that the engine runs smoother at higher .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The issue of gears getting stuck while shifting, very typical with this make, was tackled quite a lot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There was debris was stuck in the gear box. This was due to a completely exposed drive chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not the least regular air filter wash, carburettor cleaning and other bike model specific issues like fairing adjustment, frequent adjustment of rear wheel allignment and front socker oil seal checking/ replacement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had posted the issue, my bike was doing about 18500. Thereafter I started following the above and now the odometer reads 23098. There has been an improvement in pickup, mileage and over all engine smoothness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15740" LastEditorUserId="15740" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T18:47:08.553" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T18:47:08.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32596" CreationDate="2016-07-08T16:16:31.927" Score="2" ViewCount="2918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner driver and am still struggling with shifting gears. I drive a Hyundai I20. The issue that I am facing is that when I shift from 1st to 2nd, usually while going up a slope, the shift is not at all smooth and due to improper revs the engine sometimes shuts off with jolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this adversely affect the engine/transmission. If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19627" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T17:54:24.883" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:48:05.683" Title="Engine shuts off while shifting gears" Tags="|hyundai|shifting|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32587" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:15:58.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do as you suggest and cut them.  Once you have got the manifold off the engine, you could drill the old bolts out and then just use a normal pair of nuts and bolts to fasten the exhaust to the manifold.  Alternatively you could re-tap the manifold for some new bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T17:15:58.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32587" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:44:30.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You COULD drill the head enough or grind them just enough to get the rest out. Slip it off and see if you can get a pair of locking pliers on it after you get it off. If you don't regularly use tap and dyes, it's really easy to ruin your head. I would just try to pull it off and try to grab what's left of the bolt with the pliers, if not then you'll have to cut them so they're flush with the head, and drill them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ETCG How to remove broken fasteners.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guy explains several methods quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T17:51:56.723" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T17:51:56.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32585" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:56:39.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, please add more information:&#xA;What is to make and model of you bike?&#xA;What are the exact &lt;em&gt;modifications&lt;/em&gt; you've done (with spec of the components)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you say &amp;quot;under full load&amp;quot; I assume that you mean with all optional electrical system on and at full settings (like with the high beam on). If that's what you mean, then your horn will function quietly/low because another part of the system is drawing too much amperage and your horn, therefore, can't get the energy it needs to fully function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now consider, if your old headlight was AC, and you used a rectifier to make the new on DC, then rectifier is adding new resistance, and thus amp draw, of that line. Now also you've upped your headlight from 35w/35w (2.9A/2.9A) to 60w/55w (5A/4.6A). So just based on the new lamp, you're drawing 9.6A on the headlight alone! That's a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; more that the 5.8A that was factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I have upgraded the coil winding, to supply more current/power, then whether, my Rectifier can withstand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on the specs of your rectifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery will damage/become weak if I have supplied more power to it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modifying your recharge system could severely damage your battery if not done correctly, and could risk causing a battery explosion. Minimally, it's likely to reduce the life of the battery somewhat. The reason the stock system will be lower amperage than the battery is to have more of a &amp;quot;trickle&amp;quot; effect. This is a better way to recharge in terms of health. Allowing too rapid a charge (I.e. Higher amperage) will cause the battery to get hotter. In many cases this won't be an issue, but when your battery starts to get old this will become increasingly risky as it won't hold full charge and will draw more from your recharge system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And also I have heared that, coil rewinding will change some ignition timing, Is it so?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should not affect timing. The timing is based off of the mechanical action of the motor, so changing electrical items should not affect it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need to change the Fuse, since only 10A fuse is mentioned in my bike. Will it get fused if more current comes? Is there any way to deal with this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This why is we need the make/model info. I have no idea where this fuse is that you're talking about, but there has to be more than one. To facilitate your current configuration, you will have to up the fuse - however - &lt;strong&gt;doing this can create a serious risk to all other components on the same fused circuit or section&lt;/strong&gt;!!! The fuse is there to protect items from getting too much juice, so increasing the fuse rating to allow for a brighter headlight will also mean that other items (possibly your horn, blinkers, tail/brake light etc.) at greater risk of overload as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But the existing alternator is generating only 100/12 = 8.33 Amps, in which my existing battery is stated to give 9Amps. Is there any safety/particular reason, Why the factory packed alternator is supposed to give the less Amps.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;As I mentioned above, it's partly because of health and safety for your battery and other parts, but also for simplicity. If your whole electrical system will function on &amp;lt; 10A, why would they give more? Also, what do your mean by &lt;em&gt;100/12 = 8.33 Amp&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at your specs a bit, I'd say to &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00LMEQWMI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;get something like this LED H4 headlight&lt;/a&gt;. The overall power use is 42W combined, so you'd drop below your stock usages. Which would mean that you bike is now producing more than is needed. This would be a savings of ~73W overall (though my math method could be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED - 24W + 18W = 42W overall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halogen - 60W + 55W = 115W overall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rewinding the coils is a lot of work, is not easy to do, and the problem is solved more easily by reducing your overall consumption. That said, one of the main points of concern that I've seen in other thread regarding increasing lamp brightness, is the melting of conductors (wires) and light socket/boot. This is because a higher brightness light (especially true with Halogen and HID lights) will produce much more heat. Under worse-case-scenario conditions this could result in a fire because of burning the insulators or other plastic parts. So, not only would you have to re-wind your coils, but you'd also have to redo a good bit of wiring to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: I have no practical experience with LED headlights, nor am I recommending the above lamp over any others!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is also very important that you check what your local laws are regarding headlight colors and brightness. This may not be a concern wherever you are, but is some locals there are strict regulations on it and you can (and possibly will) get ticketed for it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I Googled &amp;quot;halogen HS 12v 35/35 light&amp;quot; and the results indicated a 12VDC lamp... are you sure that you were actually getting AC at the light before? Or did you assume that because &amp;quot;generator&amp;quot; output AC that it was getting AC at the lamp? From my understanding the &lt;em&gt;vast&lt;/em&gt; majority of the electrical system has a stock rectifier between it and the stator... even alternators to my understanding often have a rectifier built into them so that the unit outputs DC voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:39:35.997" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32585" CreationDate="2016-07-08T18:04:55.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First the disclaimer: I don't know much about motorcycles – really all I know about motorcycles is inferred from cars and bicycles. But I do know a fair amount about electrical systems. That said…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR – the headlight &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; have put your system out of balance by enough that your battery can't make up for the additional load and the alternator is always playing catch up. If you have a way to do it, measure the current in/out of the battery. It should be zero or positive with normal loads. But, what is suspect is that the wiring is too small – especially the main feed to the distribution point. Horns are often very high current devices and it is quite possible that with your loads there just isn't enough capacity to supply the horn's need for current. In that case there are a couple of things that you could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run a larger wire to the horn. Do it as a test to start with – don't worry about making it permanent of tidy, just get a large wire directly from the battery to the horn. If that works, make it permanent, you may want to do that by making the main feed larger.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce your loads. Use LED bulbs for all of the lights that you can. Look for a lower draw horn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The gory details:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batteries are rated in Volts (V), Amp hours (Ah), and some measure of their ability to deliver current (CCA or cold cranking Amps is one such measure). Amp hours are a measure of the battery's capacity – the size of its fuel tank if you will. CCA and the like are a measure of the battery's ability to deliver current. If you like water analogies, you might think of CCA as a measure of how big a hose the battery can keep flowing. A typical (from memory) battery might be rated at 12 V, 40 Ah, and 400 CCA. So, in theory this battery could deliver 1 Amp (A) for 40 hours, or 40 A for 1 hour, or 400 A for 6 minutes – in practice you'll find that other factors come into play, but that gives you the basic idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wires are there to deliver the power from the battery and/or alternator. If the loads are large, the wires may not be big enough to handle the current demanded and they will start to heat up and they will also &quot;fail to deliver&quot; – the resistance of the wire will hold down the current that is available to the load, much the way a small hose will not be able to deliver as much water as a larger hose could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job of the fuse is to protect the wires, and maybe the alternator, from damage due to an overload or a short circuit. The rating of the fuse is based on the size of the wires and the type of insulation they have. Wires heat up as the current through them increases and this damages the insulation. Most fuses work by melting and opening the circuit if they are carrying too much current. This takes some time, so brief overloads will be tolerated. The larger the overload, the faster the fuse will blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The role of the alternator is to provide for at least the &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; electrical draw plus enough reserve to make up for system losses and to recharge the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Batteries wear out. If yours is of unknown age/condition it would be worth having it checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T18:04:55.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2016-07-08T18:12:31.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes it's a little harder on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not much to worry about, and you'll learn the technique to resolve the issue fairly quickly, but the slamming and lurching that you're getting from too low RPM is harder on certain parts. Partly on the motor mounts, and some on the trans. If you're RPMs are down low enough to stall, the you won't be outputting that much power, and your clutch will eat most of the stress being put into the trans, especially if you're slow enough with the clutch to keep it from lurching - that's more clutch wear. The lurching (from my understanding) is partly cause by the springs in the clutch being compressed and decompressing violently. So this is also adding harsh(er) stresses to the springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it does affect some parts adversely, but to be fair, so does performing a proper shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just stay in first a little longer when running on the uphill. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T18:12:31.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32597" CreationDate="2016-07-08T18:17:44.887" Score="9" ViewCount="6777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of fuel using my outboard engine the other day, when I had checked the tank beforehand and thought I saw plenty of fuel. I had forgotten to open the choke for twenty minutes or so. My question is, does leaving the choke closed increase fuel consumption so much that I could empty a tank much quicker than normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18994" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T19:04:24.013" Title="Does leaving the choke closed increase fuel consumption" Tags="|fuel-consumption|choke|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2016-07-08T18:37:58.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Driving a manual transmission is almost somewhat of an art form. You need to fine tune your ability to combine your clutch pedal and engine at the same time. Every car is different as well. I hate driving Hyundai stick shifts because they have pretty sensitive clutches, so it makes it very hard to drive smoothly. I stall my Tiburon here and there, but I've learned over the years that every car is different. You'll have to find the sweet spot with yours and also get better at clutching and throttle control. It takes time. It took me about a half-year to figure out how to drive one without stalling it all the time. Now I can literally get in any manual car with no issues. You'll get it eventually don't worry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as damaging the engine. Yes you can. You're putting odd types of stresses that weren't engineered to handle that type of jerking motion. I wouldn't consider it horrible stress though, if you drive it like that for years you'll probably mess it up, but if you learn you should be fine. As far as the transmission goes, it's the same idea as your engine getting messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real concern, is your clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How a clutch works - Youtube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding the clutch is a term used to describe not fully engaging the clutch when accelerating. A lot of people have a tendency to &quot;Ride&quot; it by only engaging half way or not enough. After you watch that video, you'll understand why this is bad. You're essentially allowing it to spin just enough to move the vehicle. However when the two surface are not planted firmly and rubbing occurs for extended periods of time, it will wear and burn the friction disc and flywheel. Thus cause shaking and a slipping clutch. You'll end up replacing them every year. I've had a few customers that just don't understand how to drive one and usually come back for new clutches every couple of years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't worry about hill starts and stops. They are tricky in a manual. There are several techniques, such as holding the E-brake and riding the clutch just enough to get a smooth start. I would recommend giving it a good amount of gas and slowly engaging the clutch until you feel it fully grab. Again, this takes lots of practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as far as 1st to 2nd. It's always a little rough on my vehicles. The ratios of gearing are usually very different. I find it to be that way in a lot of cars. 6 speed transmissions seem to be a little more forgiving, but 5 and 4 speed transmissions are finicky. I hope i helped you a little bit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T18:37:58.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32595" CreationDate="2016-07-08T19:04:24.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It absolutely does use more fuel. What the choke does is creates a restriction in the carburetor, which in turn creates a higher vacuum so the engine will draw more fuel when it is cold. This is called fuel enrichment. It allows the engine to warm up and keep running, but at the expense of using more fuel to make it happen. When leaving the choke on for a longer than needed period of time, the engine will consume a lot more fuel than it otherwise would. It also kills the performance of the engine as well, because the engine will not be allowed to draw as much air as it would normally be able to in higher RPM situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T19:04:24.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2016-07-08T21:30:52.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when turning right the left cv joint is the bad one and vice versa. I picked that up on my dodge caliber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19634" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:30:52.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32581" CreationDate="2016-07-08T21:42:26.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 1) check your oil. If there is water that will be an indication of an intake gasket or head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update this after you've relied with that. :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your service! :D and welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:42:26.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2016-07-08T21:47:12.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, it's always been the outside wheel on a clunking turn that was the culprit (e.g right side if it clunks when turning left). However... they're both going to be about the same age, so just replace both; it's a quick job, and you know that it'll never need doing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:47:12.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23203" CreationDate="2016-07-08T22:46:28.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the 3vze/V6 engine, those are highly prone to headgasket failure to the point there was a factory recall, so that is a possible candidate. The exhaust cross-over tube behind the engine tends to overheat the rear cylinders, so that is typically where the headgasket failure occurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to keep it limping along for a while but ultimately, if your headgasket is leaking, it may cause serious damage. Driving it further could be very risky. Depending on what part of the gasket breaks, coolant can mix with oil circulation, leak into the cylinders themselves, or just leak to the outside of the engine. In any case you probably want a professional mechanic to look into it. Also you might check with the Toyota dealer to see if your vehicle is eligible for the recall and/or if that has already been done, if you do have the V6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13931" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T22:46:28.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32573" CreationDate="2016-07-08T22:50:24.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike filters are, frankly, a pain sometimes. The cup filter remover you posted should do the job, just be sure to use lots of leverage with a long pry bar or a piece of long pipe stuck on the end of your socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil filter on my car, if it's stuck, can only be removed by the cup type filter and a bit of hitting a pry bar with a hammer, if its very stubborn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T00:58:42.850" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T00:58:42.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32491" CreationDate="2016-07-08T22:50:50.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The A/C circuit is fairly complicated on the Civic and includes a bunch of sensors and switches. Since you can ground the relay coil and the A/C works you can rule out a couple of things like the compressor clutch fuse, relay and wiring to the compressor clutch. Obviously the ECM isn't grounding the relay so let's start there and work backwards. I'll assume you don't have a scantool that can read live data or preform bi-directional control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECM receives a message from the Multiplex Unit (under dash fuse box) when it receives a signal from the A/C compressor thermal protection switch. This (multiplex to ecm) is unlikely to have gone bad and would throw communication codes as well as other codes if it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the thermal protection switch is up next. This is a fairly common failure item on Honda A/C compressors. If you follow the wiring from the A/C compressor there should be a plug with three wires. Two red and one blue, One of the red wires is for the compressor clutch the other paired with the blue wire is for the thermal protection switch. The blue wire leads to the multiplex unit. With the connector unplugged check for continuity. If there isn't any either replace the compressor or bypass the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thermal protection switch receives a signal from the A/C pressure switch on the red wire. If pressure is too low or high the switch interrupts the signal to the thermal protection switch. Without knowing A/C system pressure this is a guess as to whether the switch is good or bad. As an alternative you can bypass the switch temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The A/C pressure switch receives a signal from the Heater Control Panel (Connector A pin 4 @ heater control panel). And the Heater Control Panel receives a signal from the A/C on/off switch (Connector B pin 15 @ heater control panel, this looks like it should be 12v or 5v one of the two...). And it looks like the only other input into the Heater Control panel is from the Evaporator Temperature Sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the age of the car and not knowing whether the compressor has been replaced before, the part most likely to have failed is the thermal protection switch followed by wiring and the heater control panel. Multiplex units can fail but this is rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T22:50:50.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1352" CreationDate="2016-07-09T03:07:06.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal- same car body shape, mass, road, tires, cylinders, strokes, fuel/air system and ignition etc, a larger engine operating at middling RPM and power will require slightly more fuel to overcome friction than a smaller engine also comfortably operating at middling rpm and power. For example a Triumph Herald with inline 4 cylinder, 949 cc motor, versus the same car with an 1149 cc motor. Compare to a Vittese with a straight 6 of larger displacement, they're going to be comfortable at two different speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarkson was and is an entertainer. A Prius howling along at 80 MPH with unknown hybrid system setup (no regenerative braking? Topped up battery to start?) following a course of hard acceleration, turns and braking, can be driven to a crap MPG. A BMW throbbing along at a similar speed, driven perhaps not so hard because it would go faster or slower given the same inputs, will produce a happier MPG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to magnify the effect, let some air out of the Prius tires and pump some into the BMW's. Sand bags and water bottles could also have a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2.8L 6 cylinder Corrado was sleeker, heavier and vastly more powerful than my 1.8l 4 cylinder VW Golf. At a steady 55, driven gently, the Golf delivered 35-40 mpg in California's Central Valley. The Corrado could touch 30 mpg under the same conditions, but only with constant attention to never having fun. 65mph and &amp;lt; 27mpg was more typical. At 65, 30-35mpg for the Golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T03:07:06.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32587" CreationDate="2016-07-09T04:22:26.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try torching them again. The only bolts that I couldn't get off with a torch are the ones that snapped. If the bolt didn't turn an orange glow, you're not getting it hot enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting them off, as has been pointed out in the other answers, won't let the bolt magically slide out because a bolt that won't budge is a bolt that seized (corrosion and rust between the bolt and the threads have made them almost one single piece of metal). The only option you have left after cutting them off, as has also been pointed out in other answers, is to drill the bolt out, and then cut new threads inside. You need steady hands and a good eye to line yourself up perfectly straight, and you'll need a tap and dye set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T01:09:18.343" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T01:09:18.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32610" CreationDate="2016-07-09T05:40:44.263" Score="2" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My battery died and I suspect the alternator. To test I need to get the car running again and so borrowed a wall socket charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how long I need to let the battery charge for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know how long I need to wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:03:43.787" Title="How long should a battery take to recharge from a wall socket charger?" Tags="|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32609" CreationDate="2016-07-09T06:20:31.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long does it take to charge a battery?  Ideally assuming 100% percent efficiency a 10 A battery charger would charge a 50 A/h (Ampere/hour) battery in about 5 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hours of charge =  Ampere-Hour rating/charge rate  ....ideally&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality due the fact that when a battery is charging the  charge rate is not constant. As a battery over time becomes charged the charging rate decreases. In reality it ends up being about twice the ideal calculated value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the values used in the example above...10 hours would be expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T06:20:31.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T07:13:35.047" Score="6" ViewCount="12480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen online videos of people waxing their windscreen and the result looks amazing. However, is it safe to do it? Will it have any long term side effects on the windscreen? Also, can I wax all my windows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T11:44:48.773" Title="Is it a good idea to wax my windows?" Tags="|windshield|window|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32239" CreationDate="2016-07-09T10:15:21.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;recently... i have done this before. What i'm doing is... i connect directly to left/right respectively. one wire connect to left signal and another one to to right signal. For simple car, i think should be no problem. My car so far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19642" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T10:15:21.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T10:16:06.527" Score="2" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't get it to fully open wide and run. 2013 model, any help would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. had a 80 cc modification done and also the jets were upgraded as needed. I'm thinking all my air hoses are out of position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19643" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T10:21:08.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T10:21:08.020" Title="China yy50cc qt-6 scooter fires up but when throttled it will choke out and stall" Tags="|carburetor|air-intake|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21481" CreationDate="2016-07-09T10:52:53.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently troubleshooted a very similar issue on a friend's Outlander. Different car but physics is physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was complaining of a similar rough idle and occasional stalling when the car would come to a stop. Turning the A/C on helped smooth out the idle. The dealership was tried cleaning the throttle body, which reduced the severity of the symptoms but didn't solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case it turned out to be a cracked air filter box (accident damage) that allowed air to be drawn in from an alternative route. Note that this was upstream of the MAF, so I wouldn't expect to see abnormal long-term fuel trims (which we were sadly &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/27644/675&quot;&gt;unable to verify&lt;/a&gt;). Plugging the crack immediately smoothed out the engine's idling. The fix was to replace the air filter housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest assessing if this situation applies to your car. Focus on the section of the air intake that precedes the MAF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question may help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29004/how-can-i-detect-vacuum-leaks-without-access-to-a-smoke-machine&quot;&gt;How can I detect vacuum leaks without access to a smoke machine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy troubleshooting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T12:53:22.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32611" CreationDate="2016-07-09T11:44:48.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr: There are no major safety issues with using wax on your windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done it before without issue. It will do a couple of things for you. First, it will fill in minor imperfections in the glass. When I say minor, I mean the really minor stuff. This will help it look more optically clear. The second thing it will do is cause a whetting effect with water, where water will bead up and roll off of the glass without much worry/fuss. This makes it a lot easier to see through when it's raining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side of waxing the windscreen is after a while, the wipers will tend to smear the coating, which will decrease visibility and will precipitate a new coating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option than actually using wax is to use a product like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rainx.com/product/glass-water-repellents-cleaners/rainx-original-glass-treatment/#.V4DjWLgrJpg&quot;&gt;Rain-X&lt;/a&gt;. There are many different brands on the market and all probably work fairly well. I use Rain-X in the form of wiper fluid, which applies a new coat every time I wash the windscreen ... but I'm lazy like that. Rain-X and the like won't smear on the windows over time, but may cause a bit of wiper chidder when time for reapplication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T11:44:48.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32621" CreationDate="2016-07-09T13:27:03.373" Score="15" ViewCount="81558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that sounds like a weird question but I was talking to my brother in law about oil changes and I mentioned that I almost always use Mobil 1 full synthetic.  He replied, &quot;make sure you keep using synthetic, once you go synthetic, you can't put regular oil in that engine or it'll mess it up.&quot;  That sounded strange to me but I didn't know how to counter so I just left it at that.  Is there merit to that claim?  Does anyone have any idea how he may have come up with that idea?  If so, then why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10835" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T15:10:07.270" Title="If you change your oil with synthetic can you never safely go back to using conventional?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:22:22.513" Score="3" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently went to a junkyard and saw that they had the exact make and model of my moms car. I wanted to do something nice for her. The instrument cluster in her car has been malfunction, sporadically comes on and off. It's a 2002 Volvo s80. Was wondering could I simply pick a instrument cluster off one of the Volvo's in the junkyard and swap it into my moms car? I know for a lot of parts you can do that but not sure if there is something unique about instrument clusters that I should know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19644" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T15:54:05.980" Title="Replacing an instrument cluster on an 02 s80 Volvo with a junkyard one?" Tags="|volvo|instrument-cluster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:31:28.420" Score="1" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;What causes a car to shut off while driving? About 10-15 later it will start back up; however the check engine light comes on.  If you try to start it before 10-15 min it turns but wont catch.  It was only doing it a few times, now its happening more frequently and before it turned back on almost immediately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19645" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T15:50:49.970" Title="Vehicle cuts off while driving" Tags="|engine|dodge|caravan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32618" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:50:49.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you need to figure out is the check engine light code. You'll need to hook up your OBD2 scanner and get the code it'll be most likely a code like &quot;Pxxx&quot;. Once you get that you can begin diagnosis. We also need to have the year make and model of your vehicle to give a good over the internet idea of what's going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can goto your local parts store and they will do it for free. I wouldn't take any advice from them because they will just try to sell you a bunch of parts, and they aren't usually ASE certified techs that really know how to diagnose a vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a Dodge, they are notorious for this issue because they put the ECM's in the engine bay and fender well. Mostly all Chrysler vehicles have some ECM issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all the information i can give you right now, update your answer with the information I requested and we can go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T15:50:49.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32617" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:54:05.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the new(used) cluster would need to be reprogrammed by a dealer or shop with the proper equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to do some basic voltage drop tests on the cluster before deciding to replace. Including checking fuse terminal fit etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T15:54:05.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32616" CreationDate="2016-07-09T15:57:38.447" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a myth. A lot of old-school mechanics and non-chemistry educated people repeat this false myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing from synthetic to regular oil, there is not anything special that you need to do because synthetic oil will mix directly with regular oil of the same weight (no engine flush is needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some differences between synthetic and regular oil. Synthetic oil has detergents and chemicals to protect the longevity of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ericthecarguy.com has a great YouTube video that talks extensively about the differences of synthetic vs regular oil and answers lots of common questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2013-02-04 Regular Oil vs Synthetic Oil -EricTheCarGuy](&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEBI1QndPo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEBI1QndPo&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Valvoline scientist publicly stated switching from synthetic oil to regular oil not do anything to your engine. Additionally Valvoline has a public website that states this myth is false &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/synthetic-oil-myths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/synthetic-oil-myths&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*MYTH: Once you’ve used synthetic motor oil you can’t switch to conventional motor oil. *&#xA;  Not true. Synthetic and conventional oils are compatible, so it is not harmful if you decide to switch.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even Mobil1 reps agree with it. Trust me, this has been such a topic of issue; They just decided why not put the myth to the test. So, you should be fine. Your engine may get dirtier quicker, and the oil should be changed more often, but other than that you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;update&lt;/em&gt;-&#xA;After researching what Paulster2 commented on my reply, he is right. You shouldn't need to do a flush. He also commented a link to a guy is well versed in the subject. So I was wrong about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="11948" LastEditDate="2017-09-23T18:59:27.383" LastActivityDate="2017-09-23T18:59:27.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T16:36:38.373" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner's manual for a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid described headrests that can be adjusted back and forth in addition to up and down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine does not have them. The non-adjustable ones give my wife a very sore neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I likely to succeed in swapping them out for fancier ones bought from the parts window? Is there any way to confirm that the more expensive ones can be adjusted to extend less far forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14870" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T17:24:11.497" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T17:24:11.497" Title="Are 2011 ford fusion headrests interchangeable between option packages?" Tags="|ford|interior|fusion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32630" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:12:10.050" Score="1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently learning to drive and in the process driving two cars (the instructors, and my parents for extra practice). Both are small 1 liter cars (petrol). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is in my instructors car, I can quite happily pull away on a steeper hills (let's say a T junction on a slight incline or stop start traffic on an incline) with just the clutch (no gas needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find in my parents car, I would stall in these situations if I just used the clutch, and require some gas to avoid stalling, but naturally this requires using the handbrake in order to avoid rolling back when you swap from brake to gas (which isn't always a great idea say at a roundabout whereby the entrance on is a hill, and you need to be quick to claim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do different cars have more/less powerful clutches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19648" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T19:24:13.893" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T19:24:13.893" Title="Different clutch &quot;power&quot; on different cars" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32633" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:36:10.027" Score="4" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like what happens when you first turn the key and start it up? If it makes a difference I'm talking about a L4 engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the play by play. How do the pistons, valves and crankshaft get moving? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T09:51:27.540" Title="What happens when you start a car?" Tags="|cold-start|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:37:56.147" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend just recently purchased a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt from a co-worker. Everything seemed ok with it besides the stereo. No sound is coming out of any of the speakers at all. All functions work on the stock stereo and all displays work and every now and then when we start the car we will hear a slight sound out of the speakers. It's not just the front speakers it's the rear as well. I pulled the stereo out and all wires look connected so I'm at a loss. Any help is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19649" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T19:22:22.830" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T19:22:22.830" Title="2006 Chevy cobalt speakers" Tags="|chevrolet|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32629" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:52:45.680" Score="6" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know how would a camshaft ( and valves by association ) start moving on a cold start up? What gets them running and moving. Are there something they connect to to get them going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19543" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T20:01:38.387" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:01:38.387" Title="How would a camshaft start moving during a cold start?" Tags="|cold-start|camshaft|crankshaft|technology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32626" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:57:35.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that you actually have speakers in the car. If the previous owner upgraded the speakers, he may have removed them before selling you the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the speakers are connected. You pulled the stereo to verify there are speaker wires plugged into the back of it, check the other end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the settings on the stereo (balance and fade): the stereo may be set to use a speaker that doesn't exist or that doesn't work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the speakers actually work by removing them and connecting them to the stereo in another vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the stereo actually works by connecting it to speakers from another vehicle. Basically, remove a speaker from another vehicle and connect it to this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T18:57:35.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32627" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:58:40.387" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank shaft has a pulley or a sprocket at the front end, which turns a cam shaft/shafts through a cam chain or cam belt (timing belt). 1 turn of a cam shaft = 2 turns of a crank shaft. At the other end of a crank shaft is a flywheel which being turned by a starter motor for a start. Crank shaft is the first shaft in the whole engine which turns everything else.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4rG2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4rG2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T18:58:40.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32624" CreationDate="2016-07-09T19:18:20.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers are spending millions on developements and researces, and there is nothing wrong with a clutch. The difference is between manufacturers. It is all about &quot;getting used to it&quot;. My grlfriend has 1L 3 cyl engine with 74 BHP. My car is 1.2 4 cyl and 54 BHP. Her car has more torque at low revs, so her car pulls away like a bullet. My car requires reving up for &quot;bullet&quot; start :) &#xA; One car will have a cable, another - hydraulic clutch, one will have harder pedal return spring, another softer.. But at the end of the day they will all do their job perfectly.&#xA; Harder clutch (clutch springs, bigger disc) will not allow you to pull away smoothly, it will engage quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T19:18:20.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32625" CreationDate="2016-07-09T19:22:33.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4W_NRHxekaY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty neat video showing all the working of the engine itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give the simple, broad, answer to your question, the starter forces the crankshaft (the shaft at the bottom of the block attached to the Pistons) to start rotation. There are some actions which precede this, but they will change a little for every make/model/year, or as the power plant configuration evolves. The basics however are that it enables the ignition system as well. On newer cars a lot of the ignition, timing, intake, injection and stuff is handled by the cars computer, but on older vehicles it was a bit simpler. But it's still basically the same. Turning the key enables various circuits to activate/deactivate various relays which will allow the ignition process (that of the spark plugs) to happen. The starter can force the motor to turn, but if the ignition is not enabled, you won't get combustion (at least with standard gas motors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike diesel engineer, gas engines need a spark for combustion to occur and for the semi-self perpetuating process to start. Turning the key off will (amongst other actions) cut the ignition circuits and stop further ignition from occurring. This is where the winding down comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there are a lot of cool and informative videos on YouTube which you can see via the above link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T19:22:33.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T19:23:46.807" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;1991 Pontiac Gran Prix SE 3.1 liter 6 cylinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternator positive red wire from starter grounded out and split apart. What happened and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to drive again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19650" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T05:11:53.817" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:56:22.720" Title="1991 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1 Liter - Alternator replacement fail" Tags="|alternator|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32625" CreationDate="2016-07-09T19:31:42.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To supplement kyle's answer I'll include this excellent animation, since a picture's worth a thousand keystrokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section on Electrics and how the animation showing how the timing belt connects to the crankshaft to the cams is especially helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151218035545/http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18z8md3i1fdg1gif/original.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151218035545/http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18z8md3i1fdg1gif/original.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Engine Animation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T09:51:27.540" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T09:51:27.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30040" CreationDate="2016-07-09T20:01:54.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend a good buffing and using a soft rubbing compound. &quot;Mother's&quot; brand is what I usually use. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19649" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:01:54.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32609" CreationDate="2016-07-09T20:03:43.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the battery is okay, you might need an hour to make it turn the starter and start a car. The rest should  be done by alternator IF IT WORKS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:03:43.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2016-07-09T20:48:05.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your only problem is too low revs. Just push it first gear to about 15 mph when you go up the hill and then switch to second. You'll be fine, just needs practicing. Don't be scared of high revs, it will not blow. The engine is well designed and it has a lot of sensors and limiters. If you don't have a tachometer I'd say your 1.4L engine will stay healthy if before switching gears you rev it up to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st to 15-20mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd to 25-30mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd to 40mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4th to 50mph&#xA;This is absolutely normal for a high load or slope. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes rev my 1.2L at 1st gear to 30mph, 2nd to 50mph and 3rd to 70mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T20:48:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T21:06:24.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did a wheel bearing/ hub replacement on the front passenger wheel because the old one was shot but now I have a new problem. There is a clicking sound whenever I am driving but as soon as I hit the brakes it stops. It's very loud from inside the car and in the outside you can hear it as well. When I turn to the right it gets noticeably louder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I noticed was that my brakes are a lot weaker than they were before I did the replacement. I have had clicking brakes before but only when I am coming to a stop. I'm no mechanic but I know what I'm doing for the most part but this has got me stumped and everyone I know has never came across this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19652" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T06:25:58.090" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T06:25:58.090" Title="Clicking brakes after wheel bearing replacement" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|noise|cobalt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32637" CreationDate="2016-07-09T21:50:44.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if it is since you have replaced a hub and bearings, on the same wheel, then all you can do is to get the wheel off and look for a reason. Maybe a new hub wheel studs touches something. Looking now for your hub in Google, and looks like it might be the bolt that holds the hub (3 bolts, red arrow) touching one of a wheel stud (green arrow). Or just any other similar issue, sometimes a brake caliper touches something because it is a moving part, you can never know....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lViU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lViU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T21:50:44.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32651" CreationDate="2016-07-10T02:20:16.057" Score="3" ViewCount="3130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need some help. I recently bought an '04 Mustang but am having idling problems. I've looked up some things on the Web but they didn't do anything for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've clean the IAC and it helped some but not much. 1100 rpm to 800-1000rpms after cleaning. In park it stays at 800-1000 rpm. In D it drops to between 500 and 750 rpm but the idle goes up and down it never smoothes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It rattles when you smash the gas and rear feels jerky like the differential is worn out or needs oil. Also, when you put it in D without pushing gas you're going 30 to 35 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need some help or opinions, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19657" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T13:05:34.763" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:05:34.763" Title="Idling problems on 2004 Ford Mustang 4.6L V8" Tags="|engine|ford|rough-idle|mustang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4820" CreationDate="2016-07-10T02:42:10.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my testimony. I'm not bragging in any way and will not suggest that anyone take my experience to make a confirmed decision. This was only done in an emergency, well prayed up, situation. My tire blew out in San Antonio Texas and I replaced it with a donut. I drove from San Antonio to VIDALIA GA (mostly via I-10) driving in excess of 70 mph at times. I did not have the knowledge I now have in regards to the max donut speed or max miles to be used. Had I known this information, I would have not even attempted to drive that far or that fast. I thank GOD that I made it home safely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19658" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T02:42:10.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T03:06:38.970" Score="2" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend was trying to get his fans to work. Decided to watch a youtube video and did what the guy said to. I don't know exactly but it consisted of touching wires to the wires on the harness. Well, he said he touched it to what I think is the o2 sensor (right side of engine) and he said it made a spark...after that his car will only crank but won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced ignition coils and wire for coils and replaced the o2(?) sensor. There's no distributor either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking maybe replacing the whole engine harness? As last resort? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just need to be pointed in the right direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19659" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T06:46:22.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T12:27:23.720" Title="96 toyota camry cranks but wont start" Tags="|toyota|starting|camry|cranks-wont-run|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T03:21:26.527" Score="1" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Son drove 15 hours to Brisbane no problem but 10 minutes from Ipswich on the motor way it just stopped suddenly, not overheated or anything.  I thought it must be electrical, told looks like drive shaft issue, is there something electrical possible with driveshaft or is that all mechanical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19660" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T06:44:01.467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T12:12:43.367" Title="Nissan Navara 2005 Automatic" Tags="|nissan|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32643" CreationDate="2016-07-10T03:38:04.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check all the fuses and all the fusable links, hopefully he fried one of them. The colour of the fuse means the amperage that it can handle, it is the bell-shaped curve inside that you are checking. Look for a gap.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://static.oscaroparts.com/content/en/img/email/site_repairtips/img/compare-fuses.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; a good vs bad comparison. Fuses are cheap and easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T03:38:04.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T03:56:20.193" Score="3" ViewCount="5259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Honda Accord.  Recently, whenever I turn off the engine the high beams stay on!  I tried to cut the power from the battery and turn it on again but the high beams are still on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19661" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T04:39:04.733" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T19:30:27.563" Title="Honda accord high beams never shut off" Tags="|honda|electrical|accord|headlight|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32340" CreationDate="2016-07-10T04:41:46.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds more like a brush problem to me. The diode test information sounds like they are fine. If the brushes are worn and not making solid contact with the armature the alternator cannot produce the amperage needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15169" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T04:41:46.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24350" CreationDate="2016-07-10T04:43:55.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Porsche 996 sometime last month I had The beginning failure of my intermediate shaft bearing The engine still running fine but you could tell he timing was off And of course heard the noise. when I try to rotate the engine , the metal filings inside the engine melted one of a chain tensioners (left side) producing a big ball of black plastic on the chain that got squished between the teeth. although the timing was Knocked  off a little bit I was only able to rotate engine to a certain point and it was because of the ball of plastic Contacting the sprocket. doesn't look too bad for me but I do have a serious cleanup ahead of me and a few parts. Guess it's better than a complete catastrophic.If you have a flexible borescope try Removing the oil pump located on the camshaft left side Sliding inside you might see more stuff toward the intermediate shaft.Good luck with yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19662" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T04:43:55.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30000" CreationDate="2016-07-10T04:53:39.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason the site won't let me add comments . I have a firend that had a similar problem with his 06 it turned out to be the control module that turns off the battery if the door is left open he ended up putting a switch on the battery, opening the switch and closing reset the system. This was easier than pulling the battery cable and cheaper than replacing the computer.&#xA;If you pull the battery cable and put it back on and it will start this may be the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15169" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T04:53:39.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32646" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:49:40.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your light switch may be defective. Buy a $15 multimeter (WalMart has them), and perform a &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshop-manuals.com/honda/accord/l4-2.4l/sensors_and_switches/sensors_and_switches_lighting_and_horns/combination_switch/component_information/testing_and_inspection/combination_light_switch_test/replacement/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;continuity test&lt;/a&gt; on the switch. This involves setting the multimeter either to a resistance setting (100-1000 ohms should work, most multmeters have this setting) or to a continuity setting (not all mutlimeters have this setting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a resistance setting, &lt;strong&gt;continuity between 2 pins&lt;/strong&gt; will display a reading on your multimeter (an actual number other than 0), whereas &lt;strong&gt;lack of continuity between 2 pins&lt;/strong&gt; will either read 0, or display something saying the reading is out of range (each multi-meter is a little bit different for this). If your multi-meter has a continuity setting, they usually beep when you have continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get comfortable telling the difference between continuity and no-continuity readings, set your multi-meter to a your chosen setting, make sure the electrodes aren't touching and look at the screen: that's no continuity. Then touch the electrodes together and look at the screen: that's continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've figured out the setting, perform the continuity test by sticking each electrode in the combination of connectors listed on the link with the switch in the stated positions. In case the link above goes dead, a 2005 Accord needs continuity between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins 1 and 12 with the switch off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins 7 and 12 with the switch to running/parking lights (1st position)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins 2, 7 and 12 with the switch to headlights, with high beams off (no blue light on your dash). (test the pins 2 at a time: 2 &amp;amp; 7, 2 &amp;amp; 12, then 7 &amp;amp; 12)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pins 8 and 12 with the switch to headlights, with high beams on (blue light on your dash).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above tells you how to remove the light switch and how the pins are numbered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T05:49:40.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32641" CreationDate="2016-07-10T06:43:44.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the hunting idle and the car going 30-35 mph &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; touching the gas pedal, it looks like a classic case of unmetered air making its way to the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to confirm this is the problem is to hook the car up to a scan tool and confirm positive long term fuel trim (LTFT) values; with the given symptoms I expect the values to be relatively high (more than +10%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to confirm it is to block off the air intake entrance and see if the engine continues to run; if it stays running then it is drawing air in from an alternative path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical sources of unmetered air include disconnected vacuum lines, perished hoses that have holes or cracks in them, compromised intake manifold gaskets and cracked air filter housings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Q&amp;amp;A may be useful for your diagnosis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29004/how-can-i-detect-vacuum-leaks-without-access-to-a-smoke-machine?s=1|2.8773&quot;&gt;How can I detect vacuum leaks without access to a smoke machine?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T06:43:44.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32700" CreationDate="2016-07-10T06:49:24.680" Score="4" ViewCount="5998" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the standard material a combustion chamber is made out of on a standard L4 engine today? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a new engine from scratch to test both my engineering and mechanical skills but having trouble figure out what materials to use for the combustion chamber. I wouldn't think it would be aluminum, maybe steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T19:20:32.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:20:32.010" Title="What material are combustion chambers made out of?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|combustion-chamber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T07:05:44.503" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having difficulty identifying where my vacuum and fuel lines terminate on the carburetor and various other components of this vehicle after disassembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone assist me with a visual aid in order for me to properly reassemble my vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19643" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T21:17:05.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T21:17:05.230" Title="repair air intake and exhaust and gas lines on a 2013 china yy50cc qt-6 scooter" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32641" CreationDate="2016-07-10T07:37:09.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible, but generally air intake and vacuum leaks will often set an error code in the OnBoardDiagnostics (OBDII) system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're assuming you've read the codes and came up with no faults. If you've not tested codes yet, do that first. Tell us what you found.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many cars like this, there are no error codes set for ignition wiring faults, or spark plug failures.  I'm guessing there is a short in one of the spark plug wires.  One easy test is to run the car at night, place it in park, open hood in a dark area and look for sparks where the wiring is grounding out.  Easy test, but be careful.  Keep hands and loose clothing away from front end moving parts.  Again, Spark plug wiring failures on that car won't set a code.   (and if I've got my model years mixed up, and you've got individual coils on plugs, apologies. Those should set a code in the OBDII system...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:37:09.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32653" CreationDate="2016-07-10T11:23:24.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you stripped everything down and now don't know how to get them back..?&#xA;Okay, once you fit your carb on the engine, you'll have a angled rubber tube (manifold) between a cylinder head and carburetor. On the side of that manifold should be a little fitting for a hose pipe. That hose pipe is sending a vacuum from manifold to a fuel pump that is located under the fuel tank. There are 2 options - mounted to a fuel tank (pic 1), or fitted on a frame, away from a fuel tank (pic 2).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLed6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLed6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jaOR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jaOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right fitting (pic 1) or green hose (pic 2) is where goes the other end of that hose pipe. It's a circular membrane inside of a pump, that is being pulled by vacuum, and pushed back by spring, and pumps the fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the pic 1 another fitting is a fuel pipe fitting for sending a fuel to a carburetor, so plug a pine on it, and other end of a pipe on a carburetor. I'm Googling your carb now, and can't find the way how to explain which fitting on carb is for fuel intake, and which is for overflow. So if you're struggling with it, post a picture, we will figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T20:59:28.823" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:59:28.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32652" CreationDate="2016-07-10T11:47:41.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common bore surface is a simple bore in Cast Iron block, Cast Iron sleeve pressed in aluminium block, or Nikasil plated bore in aluminium block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast iron block - cheap, simple, long life, but heavy. Used for cars, stationary engines, trains, ships...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminium block / Nikasil plate - light weight, cheap enough, used on motorbikes, mopeds, chain saw.. But won't last for too long, maintenance requires rebore, replate..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminium block / cast iron sleeve - Light weight, high resistance to high performance, long life. But more expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parts of combustion chamber are the top of a piston, which is aluminium, and cylinder head, which can be aluminium or cast iron (don't think it is still in production). The valves  - hardened steel or titanium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quick build, as a first engine with no purpose I would build it out of available mild steel and aluminium, using a lathe and a pillar drill :) In fact Lawnmower engine lasts for at least 5 years with no maintenance, and it is 4-stroke, flat head engine with no bearings, no cast iron sleeves, no special materials, no oil pumps, no proper cooling system. Main bearing is just a bore in a block, cam-shaft is a steel shaft with a plastic gear and plastic cams. And it lasts forever! I modified my cam-shaft, I ground off the cams, made steel cams looking like asymmetric washers, put them on the shaft, timed for a racing spec, and welded, and the rest corrected with a file. So my Lawnmower sounds like a racing dirtbike now for last 3 years. And still works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="16091" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T13:52:29.000" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T13:52:29.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32644" CreationDate="2016-07-10T12:12:43.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive shaft is if your engine works, you can switch every gear, but the car won't go anywhere, might be stopping when engage a clutch. Drive shaft has nothing to do with engine or gearbox, so they should stay intact if it is a driveshaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T12:12:43.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32643" CreationDate="2016-07-10T12:27:23.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are playing with engine wirings, always disconnect the battery. ECU will never fail and will last forever unless something mechanically damages it, or you have a shortage where it is not acceptable. Normally ECU works on 12v, sensors 5v. ECU is very sensitive box, and it &quot;burns&quot; if you mess up the wires. I personally saw my co-worker &quot;repairing&quot; a plug on a running ECU. So the engine stopped and £2000 ECU became a scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only recomendation I can give is to diagnose using a OBD2 or ask in a garage for diagnostic... Or if you have an access, borrow a ECU from the same model car somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. What kind of fans was it? What for? Can you post a link of a video please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T12:27:23.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32632" CreationDate="2016-07-10T12:48:42.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a 10ga fusible link on the cable from the alternator to starter. This needs to be replaced with a new cable or you can generally buy a new fusible link and crimp or solder it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the why when a always hot cable shorts to ground it's basically a circuit with no load to limit the amount of amps. One of three things happen, a fuse blows if you're lucky or something in the circuit will melt or catch fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the cable is properly repaired it's a non issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T13:56:22.720" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:56:22.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T13:08:46.887" Score="3" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to find out which vehicle part (from multiple part versions) do I need if I know vehicle VIN? I mean, for instance to see what ABS unit/s are compatible with an exact given vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need this for Opel/Vauxhall Corsa C but I wonder if there is a general way to find out online for other marks too. I have not yet contacted an Opel dealer, trying to find out online first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:08:46.887" Title="Search car parts by VIN" Tags="|part-identification|parts|opel|vin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T13:28:38.887" Score="3" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Customer replaced the vehicle speed sensor and the instrument cluster trying to resolve this issue. The rest of the gauges work and all indicator lights work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking on IATN for a known good VSS waveform and didn't want to pay for access to the Hyundai tech info site just to see a known good waveform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does a good VSS waveform look like and why after replacing parts does the speedometer still not work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T13:57:08.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:57:08.053" Title="06 Hyundai Tiburon 2.7l Automatic Speedometer and Odometer Inoperative" Tags="|hyundai|speedometer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32661" CreationDate="2016-07-10T13:47:57.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back probed the VSS and the input signal at the instrument cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow = Pin 17 (signal) at the instrument cluster&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Green = Pin 3 (signal) at the VSS&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Red = Pin 2 (ground) at the VSS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1mlT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1mlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That obviously doesn't look right. Pin 2 (red trace) isn't grounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHMOT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHMOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the sensor diagram it should be a 12v square wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where's the ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woCRS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woCRS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual inspect revealed the ground was a bit dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXZAr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXZAr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaned the contacts put a thread chaser through the hole and installed a new bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And... No change... Is this the right ground? Mitchell says the ground is behind the dash but the image supplied by Hyundai says different... And there's no continuity between the ground and the VSS pin 2. A broken wire? Maybe. But I had no desire to track down a ground with an uncertain location. A quick visual inspection of the harness between the supposed ground location and the VSS revealed nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I stripped back the wiring a bit, soldered a new ground wire in and bolted it to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXfsO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXfsO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks good to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps someone in the future from throwing away money like the customer did. About a half hour of work and no parts replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:47:57.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T14:12:07.697" Score="3" ViewCount="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently having issue where my ac unit will turn off and back on. My idea was going towards a shortage in the blower motor wire because when I move it around the unit turns on. I've had this issue for over a year. It also happens with the heating also. That's why my mind is saying a wire issue. Can anyone help me? If it is a wiring issue will I still have to replace the entire blower motor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19667" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T14:24:40.107" Title="AC on 12 Fusion" Tags="|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32663" CreationDate="2016-07-10T14:24:40.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can move the wiring and the blower motor turns on disconnect the connector and look for proper fit, burned wires, loose terminals etc... It may just need a new harness connector. If the wiring is burned replace the blower motor as well as the connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T14:24:40.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T15:14:03.733" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT.  The AC pumps a little cold air and then blows only at room temperature.  I understand there are two sides to an AC system (high and low) and that the exchange valve and the compressor are the two points where those two side connect to each other.  I just replaced the evaporator valve ($30 part and a little bit of labor, but relatively easy to access on the fire wall in the engine bay).  I am wondering how I test if the compressor is working...it is not making any strange noises and the clutch appears to engage/disengage the pulley on command.  I'd rather not have to replace it if is functioning properly, but don't know how to tell.  Any thoughts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19668" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T16:42:10.163" Title="AC Compressor Working?" Tags="|ac|subaru|air-compressor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32665" CreationDate="2016-07-10T16:17:17.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can confirm that the air-conditioning system is working by using a pressure gauge to verify that both low-side and high-side pressures are in the expected range of operation (while the A/C is running and compressor clutch is engaged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2005 Legacy service manual says that a fully charged system should be 400 ± 30 g (0.88 ± 0.07 lb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual also says that under the following conditions, the low-side pressure should not exceed &lt;strong&gt;40 psi&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine running at 1,500 rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A/C switch ON&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blower speed set to &quot;HI&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;temp setting at &quot;MAX COOL&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air inlet setting at &quot;RECIRC&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T16:42:10.163" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T16:42:10.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T16:31:04.323" Score="4" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;What causes a radiator to bubble up and leak from the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Mercury Sable. I have the thermostat changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will overflow but when I go to add more and check on the fluids oF the radiator I will only have to add very little water. It looks like it has lost a lot but it actually hasn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19669" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T16:44:05.973" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:49:57.807" Title="Radiator bubbling over" Tags="|radiator|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32669" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:01:21.590" Score="10" ViewCount="6260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw similar topics but that did not explain my things...&#xA;As we can see 4 stroke engine with 4 pistons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://xorl.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img11.gif&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any chance (only for test) to 'switch-off' two pistons?&#xA;For this example I'm talking about spark plug/EFI disconnect of two pistons. Is there any chance so car with 4 pistons will works fine with only 2 pistons (as I say 2 pistons without EFI/Spark plug connect). I test it on my second car but disconnecting two pistons gives a result that car vibrated and wasnt 'stable' as normal (perhaps maybe there was knock detonation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this in simple words and 'science' words?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19670" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T20:47:42.063" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T16:12:05.410" Title="What's gonna happen if I disconnect 'single piston'" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|piston|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:14:57.290" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you saw with your test, it is possible to disconnect the ignition on two pistons and still have the engine run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vibrations have nothing to do with engine knock or detonation though. The reason it stumbles is because those disabled pistons were expected to sustain the crank's rotation. In the absence of those pistons firing, the crank will experience rotational acceleration/deceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to disconnect the fuel injectors to those cylinders during the test to prevent unburnt hydrocarbons from reaching the catalytic converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T19:40:03.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T19:40:03.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:25:20.233" Score="2" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago - started engine in morning and while in neutral and engine cold it immediately revved to 2000 rpm...  much higher than normal... once engine warmed up it drops....   but now engine warning light on.  So RAC friend of mine tested it and it came up with P1070 fault code .. He checked around the engine but nothing looks amiss...  anyone had a similar problem &amp;amp; solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19672" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T18:11:09.793" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T18:11:09.793" Title="P1070 code error for mitsubishi space star" Tags="|obd-ii|mitsubishi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T17:58:28.437" Score="7" ViewCount="8344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla DX with about 200k miles on it.  It runs good for the most part, but recently had a problem where it would not start.  Napa tested my alternator, which failed, so I installed a new one.  Now the car starts but won't remain running. The battery is also new. What could be the cause?  Edit&#xA;today I've noticed white smoke coming from exhaust as t you car starts to overheat... Not when the engine is cool though, only as the car overheats. The white smoke combined with the over heat along with decreases in my fuel effeciency and acceleration makes me wonder if it's the head gasket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="15111" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T22:39:07.713" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T19:04:18.560" Title="Why would my Toyota Corolla die soon after starting it?" Tags="|toyota|battery|starting|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T18:32:50.343" Score="4" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu.  having starting problem; it turns over and act like it is starting, then dies after a few seconds.  Have noticed that it started before,but when i put  it in drive it died  put back in park and it did start,  and seemed to run fine.  Now it is not starting. dash lights not comeing on either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19673" LastEditorUserId="19673" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T18:45:26.733" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T23:52:50.060" Title="2004 Malibu not starting" Tags="|starting|ignition|malibu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2016-07-10T20:36:03.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know why would you need to do that, but yes, you only need to remove spark plugs to decompress unused cylinders. You can disconnect injectors, but the fuel will run out through spark plug holes anyway..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:36:03.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32667" CreationDate="2016-07-10T20:49:57.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There must be a expansion tank connected to a radiator. If it is full of cooling liquid, it will force the water through the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for expansion tank is to have a space where expanded water runs and compresses an air in the tank. If the pressure is too high, the cap will release a pressure by letting the liquid out. Why the pressure can be too high - the liquid is non-compressable, so if the level in the expansion tank is too high, it means there is not enough space for the air which to compress. If your expansion tank is empty, the cooling system can grab some air from it when cools down, which will stop a circulation of a cooling liquid on a cold start. Nothing wrong until you rev up and blow a cold water in hot engine. That will decrease a lifetime of an engine. So the liquid level in a expansion tank should be about half full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not the issue, make sure your cooling temperature doesn't exceed 100°C. Normally it should be around 90°C. If the engine warms up quickly, your issue might be water pump....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:49:57.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T21:16:46.417" Score="4" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently ordered new headlights from O'reilly, and when I received them the blinker sockets did not come with them. I think I found the socket, but all the plugins I come across are for the main headlamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyHoz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyHoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAOq2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAOq2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2VJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2VJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16463" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T22:48:15.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T22:53:53.317" Title="Having trouble finding socket and wiring harness for xb 2005 left blinker" Tags="|headlight|wiring|scion|replacements|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-10T21:25:25.957" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm selling my car and currently it sits and seeing as I'm not driving it every day I check on it every so often. When I checked today there was a small part that is connected to a tube leading into the engine block that had a small (about 2.5 inch by 3/8 inch) spring coming out of it. The spring is supposed to be held between the tube component and a plastic top component that had wires coming out of it on the other end. The plastic component with wires had snapped off most likely due to the force from constantly compressing the spring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize for the vagueness of the issue as my auto knowledge is extremely limited. If you have any idea what this could be it would be greatly appreciated if you could help. Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19674" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T00:36:55.973" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:36:55.973" Title="I cannot identify this 2004 Volvo S60 part" Tags="|electrical|volvo|part-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32675" CreationDate="2016-07-10T22:53:53.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part you are looking for can be found in the aftermarket from a company called Airtex. The PN is: &lt;strong&gt;AIRTEX / WELLS 1P2139 {#1507}&lt;/strong&gt; ... You can find it on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/airtex+/+wells,1P2139,turn+signal+lamp+socket,4024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RockAuto.com&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a copy of their picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSTBT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSTBT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T22:53:53.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32672" CreationDate="2016-07-10T23:40:18.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few possible culprits from your description. Just to cover all the bases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test your battery voltage, it needs to be above 12.6V for a healthy battery, above 11.8V to start a car. Since you've been having trouble, give the battery a boost before testing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have your ignition switch tested, it may not be making good electrical contact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test your fuel pressure (may indicate an obstructed fuel filter or bad fuel pump)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have your idle air control valve looked at, it may not operate properly. One way to bypass this problem is holding the accelerator down when turning the ignition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have your mass airflow sensor looked at, it may have become defective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the common things to first look at with a car having trouble starting, or dying after starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T23:40:18.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32671" CreationDate="2016-07-10T23:44:16.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common things that can shut a car down after starting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad or disconnected idle air control valve (hold the accelerator down after starting, see if it keeps the engine alive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad or disconnected mass airflow sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad ignition switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blocked fuel filter (test your fuel pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weak fuel pump (test your fuel pressure with the engine off but the key at the 'on' position)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T23:44:16.280" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T01:30:46.800" Score="4" ViewCount="4439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix and I have noticed that when I drive it for about 15 to 20 minutes and then park it and turn it off my antifreeze is bubbling. My thermostat does not say it is overheating but it smells hot and my low coolant light keeps flashing. Any suggestions on what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19676" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T09:12:59.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T13:52:30.047" Title="Boiling Antifreeze" Tags="|troubleshooting|coolant|pontiac|grand-prix|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32680" CreationDate="2016-07-11T02:22:18.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coolant boiling over usually indicates poor coolant circulation. Either your water pump is starting to fail (they usually leak a little bit when they start to fail) or your cooling system is partially obstructed. Here's things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look at the area near your water pump for small leaks (indicates worn out water pump)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check your coolant level in the plastic tank (add coolant if it's below max)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the radiator is completely cold, open the radiator cap to verify that it is filled all the way up. Pay attention to the colour and condition of the coolant. Brown stuff floating is bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because it's a GM, it most likely uses Dex-Cool (redish colour) instead of &quot;regular coolant&quot; (greenish colour). These don't mix. Any chance your cooling system got topped-up with the wrong coolant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T02:22:18.600" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8742" CreationDate="2016-07-11T03:00:56.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its an ignition coil, about $25, just had to do mine, keep one for a spare. Also seems once they start going the car usually for the most part is on its way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19678" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T03:00:56.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T03:12:28.067" Score="6" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2006 dodge sprinter and cannot figure out what the part connected to the transmission with the wheel is!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a new one and have spent countless time trying to find out what part it is. I hope somebody can help me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssnio.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssnio.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gearbox&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqmJS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqmJS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of drive end of gearbox&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19679" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2019-12-18T20:57:55.833" LastActivityDate="2019-12-18T20:57:55.833" Title="Need to find out what part is called" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32683" CreationDate="2016-07-11T04:04:58.867" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not too clear which part you're referring to, so I've annotated your image with the most likely items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9t97.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9t97.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T04:04:58.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:33:57.767" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevy Avalanche 1500 with 4x4. My transmission is shot and needs to be replaced. I currently have 146,458 miles on the engine, and figured I would replace the engine and transmission. I am looking to replace the engine with a 383 stroker engine however I don't know if the engine and transmission determine if my truck will still have 4x4. can someone please help me out. I was thinking $12,000 for new engine and transmission plus labor, but before I do it I wanna make sure I will still be able to have 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19681" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T08:56:40.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:05:34.510" Title="2005 Chevy Avalanche" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|automatic-transmission|avalanche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:49:51.470" Score="1" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my starter changed on a 2000 grand am. Now won't stay started putting while was started. Battery light on and dashboard lights flickering on and off. While it was running I had it in park but it was putting like it wanted to cut off which eventually it did but while I was pressing the accelerator the RPM guage wasn't moving. Any answers to what could possibly wrong with my car?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19682" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T08:48:17.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T08:48:17.003" Title="Dashboard lights flickering on and off after changing a starter" Tags="|starter|pontiac|grand-am|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32688" CreationDate="2016-07-11T07:16:44.813" Score="8" ViewCount="12698" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front wiper mechanism on my 1988 Porsche 944 has become a bit slow moving and I plan to fix it. On my car the wiper crank arms go through sockets in a frame, the crank arms are moved back and forth by linkages attached to a motor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to remove the whole frame from the car, remove the retainer clips holding the crank arms, clean the sockets and arms, grease them, and then re-assemble. I'm not sure what grease is best to use for this application, I have silicone, lithium-12 and copper grease available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqXxV.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqXxV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;schematic of the part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, see the red circle for the particular problem point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to use silicone on the linkages (3 and 5 on the schematic) and where they pop onto the crank arms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastEditorUserId="17594" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T14:58:03.760" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T19:51:41.257" Title="Which grease should I use on wiper mechanisms?" Tags="|windshield-wipers|lubrication|grease|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32687" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:22:52.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the lithium or silicone grease!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper grease is primarily used to prevent the seizing of parts which become extremely hot, like the exhaust system. But it is not a lubricant in first place. The grease bounds the copper powder, but isn't made for lubrication, an copper powder in a moving bearing can't be good, even though copper is a rather soft metal. Initially, the grease can prevent corrosion, but when it vanishes, the copper can cause even more corrosion, depending on the other materials. This is one reason why copper grease should not be used for the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone grease has several advantages: Its viscosity is constant over a vast temperature range, it usually does not harm any rubber / plastic, it doesn't age and so on. But its lubrication performance is not as high as people often think, and it's expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil based greases have the best lubrication performance and are cheaper than silicone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is of course just a generic description. There are thousands of lubricants out there with many different properties, all made for special use cases.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T08:22:52.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32692" CreationDate="2016-07-11T08:36:44.657" Score="3" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a replacement alternator for my 1993 VW Mk1 Cabriolet (aka Rabbit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the identifications on the old alternator are painted over. I cant ID it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On sites I've looked at there seems to be about 6 different alternators for the same car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ID which is the right one for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine is 1.6lt SOHC K-Jetronic (injected). Same engine as late model Mk1 GTIs. There is no air-con. In fact the only power option is the roof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1hEg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1hEg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shdAb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/shdAb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T09:20:58.157" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:33:48.853" Title="How can I identify which alternator is the right one?" Tags="|vw|alternator|golf|part-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32685" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:05:34.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr: As long as you replace it with an LSx based engine and 4L60e transmission, you will have absolutely no fitment issues with the transfer case and retaining your 4x4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the internals of the engine would change. Externally the engine will remain exactly the same. You're going to need a new block to do this, however. The LM7 engine (most common in your year of truck) does not have the capability to be bored/stroked large enough to get to 383 cubic inches. More than likely you'd need an LQ4 or LQ9 block, then bore and stroke it to size. Most LSx blocks are aluminum and can only take a small amount of boring (0.010&quot; MAXIMUM) before they need to be re-sleeved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 4L60e transmission will most likely need to be rebuilt. If you rebuild it over replacement (most common), I'd suggest you opt for the higher capacity aftermarket parts. One of the key parts to get upgraded is the sun shell, as this is a relatively weak part in the 4l60e. A stroker engine will produce a ton more torque than what you're used to, so just a stock rebuild will not deal with it for very long and you'll end up replacing the transmission or fixing it again soon. Another consideration is ensuring you get a torque converter which is matched to your engine output. If you don't increase the stall speed even by a little bit, you'll find your engine will be a dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't worry too much about the transfer case itself. Nelson Performance out of Texas (I believe) has told me they twin-turbocharge engines in 4x4 applications of the LSx based trucks, putting out over 1200hp, and see no issues from the transfer case. Should not be an issue with just a stroker engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:05:34.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32690" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:32:20.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears the following are rebuilt replacements for your alternator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WPS/Power Select PN: 14970N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pure Energy PN: 14778&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remy PN: 14918&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference (it appears) between the AC to non-AC unit is the Amperage output: AC=90A; non-AC=65A. You will probably want to get a replacement alternator which has the capacitor (externally connected part as you've described) already installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:32:20.223" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32690" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:33:48.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a 65 Amps, 125 mm Stator Diameter, 12 V alternator. The exact one is mentioned in the link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/871285_188976_4423/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VW Rabbit 1.6 Non AC alternator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:33:48.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32898" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:46:26.943" Score="10" ViewCount="3924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to research how the gears of the crank mechanism of a car window works, either manual or electric. I want to know why it doesn't fall down from gravity. Can anyone link me to an animation or images that explain why it remains stable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19685" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T15:07:52.750" Title="What stops a car window from falling down?" Tags="|gears|window|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32694" CreationDate="2016-07-11T10:03:58.170" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every window has what's called a &lt;em&gt;window regulator&lt;/em&gt; (here's a representative image):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Zv5S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Zv5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The window itself attaches to the window track. This keeps it steady and level while moving up and down. As you can see, there are gears at the bottom which connect to a motor (or a crank if a manual), which prevent the whole assembly from going down all at once. This is why it's called a regulator, as it regulates the amount of distance the window can travel. The motor has a limiting switch which only allows it to move so far in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many newer vehicles use cables to provide the regulation of the window, but the function is pretty much the same. Here is a representative image for a cable type one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF3LZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bF3LZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, every manufacturer is going to do their own thing and they will all look slightly different, but the function is pretty much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T10:03:58.170" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32697" CreationDate="2016-07-11T10:23:21.843" Score="6" ViewCount="49095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please help me understand the meaning of this dashboard light shown in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://autos.maxabout.com/bikes/yamaha/fazer-2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ABOUT BIKE SPECIFICATION&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happen if it blinks RED ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgBCj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgBCj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Check engine light motorbike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19686" LastEditorUserId="19686" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T09:39:52.990" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T20:44:42.077" Title="Meaning of dashboard &quot;Check Engine Light&quot; on motorbike" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|cel|speedometer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32696" CreationDate="2016-07-11T10:49:57.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the check engine light, or CEL - if it lights up, you have a problem with the engine and should stop and investigate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's blinking, count the number of flashes, as this will indicate a particular error code which can help you to determine what is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T10:49:57.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32652" CreationDate="2016-07-11T12:07:30.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; talking about the combustion chamber, &lt;strong&gt;by far the most used material is aluminum&lt;/strong&gt;. The combustion chamber is part of the head. It is just the indentation where the valves reside. The combustion chamber affects flame propagation. In the past, besides aluminum, cast iron was used as head material. Cast iron, while being more resilient than aluminum, is harder to work and weighs more. Aluminum also dissipates heat faster than cast iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture below, you see the head and two combustion chambers. They are the round indentation in the head. The four round holes in each combustion chamber is where the valves reside. In this case, you have two intake and two exhaust valves. Around the edges of the holes for the valves are valve seats, which are usually made of cast iron, but can be made of other material as well. These are harder and can stand a lot more abuse than can aluminum by itself. In the center of the combustion chamber are the threads for the spark plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rRa3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rRa3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T12:07:30.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T13:16:52.820" Score="3" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Hyundai&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Accent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 1.6L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2008&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: P0300,P0302&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19691" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T01:34:06.400" Title="How to fix P0300 and P0302 error codes for Hyundai Accent 2008?" Tags="|hyundai|accent|p0300|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32680" CreationDate="2016-07-11T13:52:30.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple cause of boiling coolant is a radiator cap that doesn't hold pressure anymore.  The cooling system is designed to be under a small amount of pressure, and that pressure increases the boiling temperature of water to the 250 degree neighborhood.  A working cap will hold 12-15psi, and without it holding pressure, boiling happens much sooner, depending on the ratio of coolant you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12030" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T13:52:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32694" CreationDate="2016-07-11T14:20:05.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worm drive in the motors or manual crank mechanism has a defined &quot;input&quot; and &quot;output&quot; shaft; if you try to move the &quot;output&quot; side of the drive, nothing happens.  Check out the examples at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive&lt;/a&gt;, it should be intuitively clear why it cannot be otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18909" LastEditorUserId="18909" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T15:17:33.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T15:17:33.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T14:35:41.403" Score="7" ViewCount="3269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2004 Subaru Forester XS with 102,000 miles on it and required service and inspections just completed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the Ambient Temperature Gauge keeps malfunctioning - often sticks at 77; after a few hours it shows the correct outside temperature.  What could be wrong?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic cannot explain to me why the gauge starts to work after a few hours if I stop the car and go shopping. When I return, the gauge starts working again.  He says it is not a loose connection but he has not checked any of this out yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the mechanic did disconnect and drain the AC system while he was working on the car -- I do not know why he did this although I think it was a mistake since I was not charged for this. The AC works fine now as it did before.&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8037f278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link shows where the sensor is that the mechanic pointed me to on the dashboard of the passenger side.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdX75.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdX75.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19695" LastEditorUserId="44272" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T10:07:29.943" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T10:07:29.943" Title="Malfunctioning Ambient Temperature Gauge - 2004 Subaru Forester" Tags="|subaru|sensor|temperature|forester|exterior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T15:19:55.163" Score="2" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 chevy blazer, brakes pump up good with engine off, but pedal falls to the floor when I start the car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19519" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T15:44:22.593" Title="brake problem with my 2000 chevy blazer" Tags="|chevrolet|blazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-07-12T00:44:34.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32707" CreationDate="2016-07-11T15:44:22.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no brake booster with the engine off, there is with the engine on, so it is normal to get more pedal travel with the engine on, but not all the way to the floor. Start with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your brake fluid level, it may be too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your braking lines for leaks. Most common leak point is at joints between the steel lines and the rubber lines, as well as near the rubber lines and the brake hardware (calipers, drums)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bleed the lines for air. Air trapped in braking lines causes brake pedal softness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the level of brake wear, especially the rear. Worn brakes need more pedal travel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T15:44:22.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32705" CreationDate="2016-07-11T15:56:38.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the temperature sensor is broken. A new one is $40-$55, and it's a 30 minute job to replace if you've never done it before (it lives behind the grill in front of the radiator). Not uncommon for these to fail on Subarus and give weird readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following Paulster2's comment, here's an image of what the sensor looks like;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXGy1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXGy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image from http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/sensor-ambient-air-temperature/duralast-sensor-ambient-air-temperature/179833_0_0/&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image (of a 2007 Forester), the sensor is in the yellow outlined location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLUMR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLUMR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="12596" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T02:53:39.837" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T02:53:39.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32701" CreationDate="2016-07-11T16:04:19.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0300 is the trouble code for random/multiple misfires.&#xA;P0302 is the trouble code for misfires in cylinder #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common causes for misfires are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad spark plugs.&lt;/strong&gt; Remove them and inspect them. Replace them if necessary ($20 if you do it yourself). Tools needed: ratchet with various size sockets, spark plug socket, ratchet extension, spark plug gapper tool. First remove the &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.gtcarlot.com/customgallery/engine/41777681.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plastic cover&lt;/a&gt;, then you will have the 4 ignition coils accessible. Twist them and yank them, they are really on there. Look deep inside the engine hole, that's the top of your spark plug. Use a spark plug socket and a ratchet extension and unscrew it, when it's loose, pull it out and compare it to &lt;a href=&quot;http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss120/jacksonMS30/SparkPlugReading_zps9f2f50dc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; and measure the gap between the curvy part and the thin grain of rice part. I believe the gap needed for your case is 0.045&quot;. If the gap is too big, gently tap the curvy part against something hard. If it's too small, use the gapper tool to gently pry it open. We are talking fractions of an inch, so just apply some mild force, less than opening a can of pop, and measure. New spark plugs need to have their gap checked the same way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad ignition coils&lt;/strong&gt; If changing the spark plugs doesn't prevent your problem from reappearing, your next likely culprit are the ignition coils. They are about $20 each, replace the entire set. Only remove them 1 at a time, because the order they are connected in matters. Remove one, replace it. Then move to the next one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad injector&lt;/strong&gt; There isn't an easy way to diagnose a bad injector and replacing them involved releaving fuel pressure, that may be too dangerous for a novice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T19:14:09.147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:14:09.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32420" CreationDate="2016-07-11T17:23:09.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sent a web &quot;contact us&quot; form to Brembo through their website around the same time that I asked this question. They appear to have forwarded it to an account manager at Race Techonolgies, LLC based in Irvine, California which is an official Brembo partner. The account manager sent me a response just today, a week after I sent my request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brembo calipers are painted and Brembo does NOT recommend powder-coating them.  Powder-coating does soften the aluminum of the caliper defeating the stiffness engineered into the special aluminum that Brembo uses.  Also, when a Brembo caliper is done with the machining at the factory, the caliper gets anodized internally and externally.  The anodizing then gets painted.  In order to powder-coat the caliper you not only have to remove the paint but the protective anodizing as well.  This is when the additional damage can take place as it requires extensive bead/sand blasting to not only remove the paint but the anodizing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recommend you take your calipers to a high quality auto body shop for painting.  I have attached painting instructions that our technical department put together for you to give them.  FYI, never separate the caliper halves!  The two internal seals are very hard to come by and are not readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the painting instructions attachment, here are additional details in terms of preparing the calipers for finishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Parts to remove: Remove pads, pad pins, pad springs and rubber bleeder caps only. No other parts should be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Preparation: Caliper finish should not be stripped or removed. Only painted surfaces should be lightly sanded and repainted. All other areas that are metal or anodized (silver or black) finish need to be taped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about as definitive of an answer I could have hoped for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T17:44:58.810" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T17:44:58.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32715" CreationDate="2016-07-11T17:54:15.417" Score="7" ViewCount="78656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a number of mentions of &quot;claying&quot; before polishing, with &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/PyJYtYhz9RQ?t=14m39s&quot;&gt;some people&lt;/a&gt; swearing that it's an absolutely necessary step before polishing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2_iDnIPpQuw?t=10s&quot;&gt;while others&lt;/a&gt; seem to get good ( or at least pretty decent ) results without this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a normal car, with not perfect, but decent paint ( some nicks, some oxidation, but hasn't lost it's clear coat yet ) how recommended is this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about taking the car to a show, just wanting it to look what you might call &quot;normally&quot; good without it taking 10 hours to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, exactly what is &quot;clay&quot; and specifically, from a technical point of view, why and when is it recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="6271" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T18:18:13.937" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T14:19:09.697" Title="How important is it to clay before polishing and waxing?" Tags="|paint|paint-clearcoat|detailing|polishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32712" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:30:29.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; It isn't necessary, but it improves the quality of the polish/wax job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Claying&quot; (otherwise known as using a clay bar or detailing clay), is a means by which to remove contaminates from the finish of your vehicle which washing alone will not remove. The clay bar creates a shearing action, which basically cuts the contaminates off of the clear coat, then encapsulates the contaminate so as to not create damage to the finish. When done, the finish is more ready to receive polish and/or wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clay bar itself is pretty much what the name implies, though it's not made out of organic or natural stuff, but more-so is a synthetic (man made) clay specifically designed to do what it's designed to do: remove paint contaminates. A typical bar of clay comes wrapped up like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cIT0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cIT0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can come in just about any color. When you first pull the clay out of the wrapper, you need to knead it, as in, fold it back on itself and get it more malleable. When actually using it, you need to also use a lubricant with it to ensure it isn't sticking to (or grabbing) the clear coat in the process. Here is an image of what it kind of looks like when in action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bo6dZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bo6dZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contaminates are stuck to the clear coat, while the clay bar comes along and intercepts them, absorbing them into itself. To do this correctly, you need to continually fold the clay bar back on itself to further encapsulate the contaminants inside the clay bar. When in use, the clay bar will look like this, and is how you'll know it's working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niNQO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niNQO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You work a small part of the car at a time, ensuring you are keeping the clay bar wet and the lubricant present at all times. If you should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EVER&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; drop your clay bar to the ground, get a new one, as the contaminants from the ground can cause big damage to the finish on your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should wash your car prior to using a clay bar so as the clay bar is only picking up contaminates from what is stuck to the finish and not everything which is on the vehicle prior to. It should be a noticeable difference after using a clay bar, especially after waxing/polishing. As was stated, it isn't necessary, but it does make the finished product look that much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: You can clay bar your windows as well to improve optical clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T14:19:09.697" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T14:19:09.697" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32720" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:34:07.507" Score="6" ViewCount="2075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Opel Corsa D 1.4 turbo. I have bought a Conic Air Filter, but I need to know what I can do to make a better installation. I don't think that I have a good one, because is too close to the warm air from the engine. To install it, I remove the air filter access front part, and replace the air filter for the conic filter, and put it over the top of the open original box of the air filter. I have attached a photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better configuration for this air filter installation that will draw cooler air for the intake rather than heated air from the engine compartment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rv7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5rv7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19699" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T18:38:46.843" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T21:47:01.210" Title="Please help with my Intake for Opel Corsa 2014" Tags="|performance|opel|air-filter|corsa|tuning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32712" CreationDate="2016-07-11T18:46:18.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be silly to skip claying if the paint surface is heavy with contaminants and go to the compounding/polishing step; it would be like using makeup to cover blackheads - the right thing to do is remove the contaminants and work off a clean surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compounding uses micro-abrasion to reduce the visibility of paint imperfections while polishing works by &quot;filling&quot; regions of imperfection with wax (usually temporarily). They are not designed to work with the presence of surface contaminants and will do little to mask them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that clay mitts and clay towels are available as alternatives to clay bars. They give 95% of the result with none of the usual drawbacks. Plus it's far quicker to clay a car than compound/polish it. For a mid-size sedan you should need no more than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T21:50:06.557" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T21:50:06.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32714" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:24:17.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have done is the simplest and easiest install for these filters. Anything better involves some work and some custom parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to find space. What people often do is place the filter in the corners behind or under the headlights. To do this, you will need a longer tube, so find a generic tube of flexible material of the same diameter and attach it. Be careful about placing the filter too close to the ground, it can aspirate water when you are driving in the rain, and that's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave it there, since the original filter was there. If you are worried about hot air, you can install a piece of cardboard between the filter and the engine, it may help keep the hot air away a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:24:17.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32714" CreationDate="2016-07-11T19:32:53.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very difficult question to answer.  Altering the airflow path before the airflow sensor can lean out an engine, which might improve performance, but cause unnecessary heat and stress.  Without dynamometer testing with careful monitoring of Air/Fuel ratios, any changes are speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current installation is probably particularly sensitive, since the filter shape has changed, and the distance to the airflow sensor is very short.  Vortexes and boundary flows will not have much time to settle out, and may not be laminar flow across the actual sensor wire or film  - which may cause significant discrepancy between &lt;em&gt;measured&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you want the largest and coolest amount of air you can get, but figuring out this configuration will be difficult without a lot of repeated trial and measurement.  &quot;Bigger&quot; is &lt;em&gt;not always&lt;/em&gt; better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other possibility is to closely copy a &lt;em&gt;proven&lt;/em&gt; &quot;aftermarket&quot; system, but even this strategy has risks, as not every single aftermarket vendor is perfectly honest.  [cough] Some of the performance gains printed on the box are at the cost of tricking the airflow sensor into running lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truth is that the OEM airbox is typically of excellent design, and the Mass Air Flow sensor scaled to the particular characteristics of that design.  Changing a filter element in the stock airbox to a different brand or style (e.g. K&amp;amp;N) will not likely be a problem if properly maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, redesigning a complete Cold AIr Intake system, without years of engineering experience, access to a dyno and other measuring/logging equipment, and a lot more time and money than the result would be worth, is simply not a good idea in my opinion.  Also remember that you are ultimately limited by Engine Control Module programming and fuel trims, and you are &quot;using up&quot; the ability of the ECM to compensate for other variables.  To truly take advantage of a modification that affects (and improves) Volumetric Efficiency, the ECM must be made aware of the modification and reprogrammed to reflect the changes in its air/fuel ratio and timing tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... in order to make certain this really IS an answer, I would remove the conical filter, restore the stock airbox configuration, and purchase a bespoke K&amp;amp;N type oiled gauze filter to replace the stock pleated paper type.  I honestly don't think that cone filter arrangement is going to help you.  I do like the way it looks, but ultimately I doubt it will help, or perhaps even harm your overall performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T19:48:15.640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:48:15.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32719" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:30:22.583" Score="4" ViewCount="3883" Body="&lt;p&gt;My trolling motor for my boat has a black and a red connection.  The red goes to the positive on the 12 volt battery.  The black goes to the negative on the 12 volt battery.  Could I connect the black to the giant metal boat I am driving, and then connect the negative on the battery to a different part of the metal boat?  Since I use 2 12 volts (one for the trolling motor and one for the main engine starter and aerator) could I use only a single connection from one battery to ground the entire boat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I doing this all wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19703" OwnerDisplayName="USER_8675309" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T21:41:33.190" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:33:23.353" Title="Why do I connect the positive and the negative to the battery on a boat?" Tags="|battery|boat|ground|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32718" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:44:55.880" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do this, but you would not want to. By running current through the surface of the boat, you will induce a voltage potential across it. This voltage potential will cause current to flow from one part of the boat, through the water, to another part of the boat. This will cause electrolytic corrosion, which you definitely don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16316" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T21:44:55.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32714" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:47:01.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the relative absence of space in the engine bay, any attempts at relocating the intake will involve a fair amount of engineering and gnashing of teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend keeping it in its present location but restoring the air box cover. It won't help much with heat soak through radiation but should reduce convective heat loads felt by the intake filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I am skeptical about how much difference in performance this modification will make. There is a Q&amp;amp;A about the impact and effectiveness of CAI's here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25111/when-is-a-cold-air-intake-system-beneficial?s=3|2.1139&quot;&gt;When is a cold air intake system beneficial?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're planning to go drag racing, the vehicle's best off retaining its OEM setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T21:47:01.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32718" CreationDate="2016-07-11T22:03:31.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no connection to a boat shell at all, then better stay away from grounding. It might be designed that way because you will feed a fish with 12v.. Not sure, but I would concern about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T22:03:31.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32718" CreationDate="2016-07-11T22:17:42.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do what you are suggesting, but to what end? It seems to me you'd have a much greater chance for something to go wrong. Here are a few things to think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running your trolling motor off of both, there is the distinct possibility you'll drain both batteries and then you'd be stranded. Keeping them independent will help ensure this won't happen. Your primary battery should be like what you'd find in a car, which provides a quick discharge with high amperage. The one you are using for your trolling motor should be a deep cycle battery, one which will discharge over a much longer period of time. While they could be tied together, you really don't want to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought is you probably should be running your aerator off of the trolling motor battery. For the same reason as stated above, you can drain your primary battery, again, leaving you stranded. Wouldn't be pretty either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to charge the one which does the trolling, which means disconnecting it on a regular basis to get it done. Keeping it separate will help in that endeavor, I'd think. The other one will probably be charged by the main boat motor, so you don't have to worry about it as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T22:17:42.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T22:33:13.937" Score="4" ViewCount="2994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I had a situation where a 2010 VW Golf Diesel had a flat battery. I had a nice long but gentle hill to let it roll down, so I attempted a bump start, which didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting normally, after you turn the key, the dashboard display says, &quot;Depress clutch to start.&quot; So you have to have the clutch in, for the starter motor to turn the engine over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So rolling down the hill, in gear, with the clutch in, when the car got up speed I simultaneously turned the key and let the clutch out to engage the gear. There were some lurches of the car, but the engine didn't turn over. I tried this several times until I was at the bottom of the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I got the car started with jump leads. No waiting or revving the host engine. Started straight away (Which I mention to indicate the battery wasn't dead as such, just flat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the &quot;Depress clutch to start&quot; mechanism preventing the car from being bump-started, or did I just not do it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4554" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T23:10:46.110" Title="Are there some kinds of modern car, which cannot be bump-started?" Tags="|battery|starting|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32712" CreationDate="2016-07-11T22:41:48.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual polishing is a very sensitive thing, basically it is a wax containing a light abrasive compound, which is softer than a clear cote. Waxing is to put an extra coat of wax on a car which will fill the micro scratches and will look shiny. Polishing - it's a rubbing off a micro coat of clear cote, and in same time get the surface totally flat and shiny, and plus it will leave a wax on a surface. A good polishing will need a proper polisher (big angle grinder, only with about 800-1000RPM), and polishing waxes. To me the best known and enjoyable stuff is 3M. Must be very careful with sharp corners and edges. I never heard about &quot;claying&quot;, I always cleaned it off with a polisher, maybe I should try :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginner I would recommend some kind of T-Cut kits which is designed for beginners, contains very fine abrasives, good wax, and polish it by hand. If you need more polishing, ask any experienced person to help, so he can actually show and explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T22:41:48.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:09:51.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Depress clutch to start&quot; gadget should be dealing only with a starter motor relay. Everything else should be working anyway, so if your &quot;Bump-Start&quot; was at low speed and 1st gear, then yea, it was a faulty &quot;Bump-start&quot;. Normally it should be done at 2nd or even 3rd gear on diesel engines because of very high compression..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T23:09:51.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:10:46.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The list for why the car did not start is long. Instead lets hit some basics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to successfully bump start a modern car the battery cannot be completely flat. (that is less than 8v or so but depends on car) This is because the alternator needs some electricity to excite it to generate power. The car may not have enough power to turn over the starter but still enough to run the rest of the electrical system. In this case the bump start takes place of the starter. The alternator then takes over and charges the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery is too flat to run electrical system it may be enough to excite the alternator to bring up the charging system while the engine is spinning. This will bring up the electrical system and start the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery is so flat that it can't excite the alternator and nothing will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old diesel engines which were all mechanical could be bump started any time. The stipulation being that the solenoid that cuts the fuel up can be bypassed manually. Also old carburated cars with magneto ignition systems could be bump started any time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the depress clutch to start mechanism is only to make sure that the starter does not engage while the car is in gear. This does not prevent the car from starting, it only disables cranking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T23:10:46.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:12:31.607" Score="3" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Buick Regal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Heater/Air Conditioner runs erratically. Sometimes when set for air conditioning it will blow hot air out on both passenger and driver sides, sometimes hot air on one side and cold air on the other side, and sometimes it will run just perfectly. Same thing when on the heat setting, sometimes blows cold air on both sides, sometimes cold on one side and hot on the other side, and sometimes runs just perfectly. I have had it back to the dealer several times and they have replaced the entire unit in the dashboard, but weeks later the problem just reappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be going on and what might be done to fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19704" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T23:46:19.407" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T12:13:07.747" Title="2000 Buick Regal Heater/Air Malfunctioning" Tags="|ac|heater|buick|regal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19109" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:12:35.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am writing an OBDII app for Android and my extensive testing has showed that Yes it can have a negative impact on the cars performance. I have had test outcomes where all the lights on the dash light up and the engines torque is reduced. I believe this could be related to overloading of the OBD circuitry with constant commands being issued from an app. I'm sure that most/all current OBDII apps out there have undergone extensive testing for this and I would recommend that you do not expose your cars multi thousand dollar circuitry to a $10 adapter that is driven by a $2 app. Maybe look for guarantees and/or evidence of extensive live testing. Most of these apps are written with OBD simulators, which of course will not show any engine/circuitry degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T23:12:35.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32730" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:19:40.013" Score="6" ViewCount="5187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace a passenger side tail light assembly (well, actually only the red plastic is broken, but that doesn't seem to come separately) for a 2015 Impala, and I see parts sites listing right/inner and right/outer as two separate things.  What do they mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19706" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T19:56:17.593" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:56:17.593" Title="What is the difference between an inner tail light assembly and an outer tail light assembly?" Tags="|chevrolet|part-identification|tail-lights|impala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32729" CreationDate="2016-07-11T23:55:40.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tail lights on this car look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iKDN9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iKDN9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://2015chevyimpala.com/2015-chevy-impala-photo-gallery/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer assembly is the one on the quarter panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KUhkT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KUhkT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner assembly is the one on the trunk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUhSK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUhSK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 99% sure of this, but note that it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the result of a bunch of Google searching, and generic product pictures on parts sites make finding a clear image confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somebody could confirm this that'd be great. You could also call the dealer's parts department and ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T04:21:13.537" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T04:21:13.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7459" CreationDate="2016-07-12T00:54:37.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel wheels will inevitably rust if significant measures aren't taken, especially if you live in the 'Canadian Rust Belt&quot; - the Maritimes, as do I. I just completed restoring a set of 6 bolt steel wheels that I picked up for my minivan. I have a couple sets of aftermarket steel wheels that are 5 - 6 years old without a speck of rust. They do however require a good annual or bi-annual de-greasing as I spray them several times throughout the winter with a rustproofing spray like Rust Check or Fluid Film. Sometimes I'll spray on old atf as I have gallons of that in my shop. The wheels get quite a build-up of 'grease' on them. Some will claim that the oily substance will attract dirt and moisture and accelerate rust. This has not been my experience. Key, I believe, is to reapply the product fairly regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To refinish my 6-bolt rims, I coarse wire wheeled all the flaking paint off and as much rust as was possible, de-greased, applied phosphoric acid gel a few times for a couple hours each time with wire brushing between coats, washed, sanded, de-greased again, 3 layers of high build primer, scotchbrite scuff, twice alcohol rub and 3 coats of enamel paint. I hope to never see rust on these wheels as I'll spray them throughout the winter with rustproofing spray. Fairly high maintenance, but worth it to me as I loath even the slightest hint of rust anywhere on my vehicles. My vehicle body rustproofing regimen is a whole other story in and of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19707" LastEditorUserId="19707" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T01:13:39.110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:13:39.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32718" CreationDate="2016-07-12T01:33:23.353" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the corrosion issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, one day you will be moored to the dock doing some maintenance work on your boat's electrics, when some klutz accidentally drops a live mains power cord extension into the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salt water is a pretty good conductor, so your boat electrics will just have been powered up by a 120V supply when you least expected it. Not a good situation to be in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you are ever out at sea during a thunderstorm, a lightning strike into the water might not do your electrical system any good, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:33:23.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24500" CreationDate="2016-07-12T04:50:07.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A piston's job is essentially to couple force between mechanisms and fluids. It does this by moving in and out of the (usually cylindrical) fluid chamber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the engine during combustion hot gasses apply a force to the piston which in turn applies a force to the connecting rods which in turn applies a force to the crank. During other strokes of the engine the piston operates the other way round using force from the crankshaft to push out the exhaust gasses, draw in new air (and sometimes fuel) and compress the air (and sometimes fuel) ready for combustion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarlly in the brake caliper the hydralic fluid presses on the piston which in turn presses on the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston in the combustion engine is a high-spec part designed for demanding conditions. It must provide just the right compression ratio, it must move at high speed all the time, reapeatly changing directions, it must maintain a very good seal against the cylinder walls. The couplings between piston, connecting rod and crankshaft must also be able to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake caliper is far less demanding. The piston is only dealing with hydralic oil, not hot gasses and only moves a short distance infrequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T04:50:07.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T04:51:55.637" Score="6" ViewCount="5904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting some mixed advice about towing with a Forester. We are considering buying a small popup camper, and also maybe a small utility trailer. The camper would be for there-and-back trips, not road trips. The utility trailer would be for very occasional moving of furniture, lumber or garden type stuff. We would try to stay well below the prescribed towing capacity of 2,400 lbs., and hopefully get trailers with brakes. We would also install a transmission cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main comment against is that it would be hard on the transmission over time. We got that from both a mechanic we really respect, and an RV sales person who we don't know at all. Online BBs have tons of discussions of people saying they do it with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a very base package, but has the standard 2.5 L 4 Cylinder engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19709" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T16:26:23.117" Title="Will towing a trailer hurt my 2008 Subaru Forester?" Tags="|transmission|subaru|towing|trailer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32433" CreationDate="2016-07-12T05:26:01.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just had a Mercedes Key that would not unlock the doors but would start the Vehicle.&#xA;So I sent it to a specialist car key doctor This is what he found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out Mercedes Smart Key, find damaged casing and switches and bad connections. Remove all switches and fit 3 new switches, redo bad&#xA;connections, fit 2 new batteries and test, key working but appears to be draining batteries. Investigate further and find key is transmitting&#xA;continuously in infra red circuit. Trace fault to defective controller chip, replace and retest, key is working well, batteries are not draining anymore.&#xA;Fit circuit board into new casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are firms out there who specialize in key repairs&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T05:26:01.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32734" CreationDate="2016-07-12T05:39:11.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact of the matter is any additional load is harder on a transmission. Stuffing 5 of me in four car is 1000 lbs, add say camping gear and you're looking at 1200-1500 lbs of cargo. If my wife were driving alone that'd be less than 120 lbs of carve weight. Over time the difference of just my wife vs 5 of me could be huge, but we're talking over the life of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply, I'd say of the manufacturer has rated the vehicle as being able to haul 2400 lbs, then it can without any major risks (obviously excluding operator error). Reason being that they can't say &quot;you can use a vehicle for this&quot;  and warranty it when you actually can't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a trailer with brakes, cause why not? Less work for your vehicle to do alone. And keeping the load light is always good. If the vehicle is built to haul, don't worry much. If you can also get a trailer with 2 axles (to take leverage off the hitch) that could be good too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that's what I'd say. Mind you I don't have any particular experiencing hauling from a vehicle as small as a Forester, but I think what I've said this far is sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh! Last thing, &lt;strong&gt;if there are specific manufacturer instructions for how to drive and use the transmission while hauling, follow them exactly!&lt;/strong&gt; That will also ensure lowest risk of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if I can find any good references of studies or statistics, I'll put them here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T05:39:11.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:26:55.533" Score="5" ViewCount="5243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Skoda Fabia 2002 with manual gear and over the past few days I find the car losing power when accelerating fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I push gas pedal to accelerate quickly (in any gear) I hear the engine sound and rpm increasing in pitch by a lot more than I'm used to hearing, but the car doesn't respond and the performance is very poor. If I get up my foot from gas pedal little back to a position to slow acceleration, the engine noise returned to what I'm used to hear (and still accelerating) then I need to push slowly and it seemed accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong with the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19713" LastEditorUserId="4340" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T16:59:43.627" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T04:06:34.377" Title="Why is my car losing power when accelerating?" Tags="|acceleration|skoda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32737" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:46:53.880" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds very much as though your clutch is slipping.  Essentially, the clutch plates aren't making strong contact and slip against each other under hard acceleration.  Under gentle acceleration there is less stress on the clutch and so slipping is less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not that you are losing power but that the power is being wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by one or more of:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive wear   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking oil onto the plates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless addressed, it can only get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustment is the easiest to check, so is a good first step.  The chances are, a turn of a screw will fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you may need a new clutch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T08:46:53.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32741" CreationDate="2016-07-12T09:17:42.260" Score="4" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking out various different clay bars and ran across this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00CUAWJ6G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nanoskin product&lt;/a&gt; with quite allot of good reviews which is supposed to be an easier substitute:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB54E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB54E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone here had encountered this product and if it's really a good substitute for claying in the &quot;clay, polish, wax&quot; process for the average person who is not taking their car to a show and just wants it to look decent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Postscript&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/autofetishdetail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto Fetish Detail&lt;/a&gt; guy on youtube has some good info both &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zo_xPjsEZwg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on claying&lt;/a&gt; and these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhDBb6L-xRg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nanoskin type products&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T20:43:30.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:43:30.480" Title="How good are clay bar substitutes for &quot;claying&quot;?" Tags="|detailing|polishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32739" CreationDate="2016-07-12T12:15:08.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both clay bar and clay mitt (similar to the product you've posted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of clay mitt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if dropped, you can clean it off and use it rather than throw it away&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;typically covers larger surface area in a single pass, allowing for quicker claying of the whole car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of clay bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can continue to fold and expose new surface to maintain efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can get get different strengths to tackle different levels of contamination &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both need oodles of surface lubrication (clay lube or soapy water) to prevent marring the paint surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both will eventually need to be replaced after they pick up sufficient contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T12:15:08.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32745" CreationDate="2016-07-12T12:56:19.930" Score="12" ViewCount="5733" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to tighten a stud without a bolt head? It essentially looks like this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pyb1K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pyb1K.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to tighten it to a specific torque(4 of these have nuts tightened on them to hold the tire of my bike to the right fork). I have no idea how I would do this. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T13:15:21.900" Title="Tightening Stud Without Bolt Head" Tags="|maintenance|repair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:07:22.453" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to mix Mopar 5W-20 with 1.5 liter of Total Quartz 5W-40?  Driving in the middleast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19719" LastEditorUserId="19719" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T05:33:08.727" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T05:33:08.727" Title="Jeep Wrangler Sahara (86,600kms mileage)-Oil change" Tags="|engine|oil-change|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41800" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:10:25.090" Score="7" ViewCount="31836" Body="&lt;h1&gt;My car has a problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the engine whistles (Hard to better describe it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white smoke comes out of the engine beneath the fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two different mechanics could not understand what's happening&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 European Volvo V50 2.0D Diesel (160.000Km). Last evening I saw white smoke coming out from the engine and heard a strange sound coming from it. When the car was turned off I smelled burnt plastic. Later when I turned the engine on again I saw white smoke again leaving the engine and a strange new sound when I hit the gas pedal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I have some videos of the engine and car starting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP-OZOsR8MPGMiRkL6YFL-1capYJJ57UFFfrze0EKbP7Zahs4oC24AQx-5kOkUfwA?key=eW5PT3hKdXB2RHg5UjFhdUt0SzNKajBEaGV3Q3l3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP-OZOsR8MPGMiRkL6YFL-1capYJJ57UFFfrze0EKbP7Zahs4oC24AQx-5kOkUfwA?key=eW5PT3hKdXB2RHg5UjFhdUt0SzNKajBEaGV3Q3l3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T05:56:23.130" Title="What is the cause of this strange engine noise and white smoke from the engine?" Tags="|engine|noise|volvo|smoke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32742" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:15:21.900" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;You take 2 nuts and put them on the same set of threads.  Then lock them against each other by loosening the lower nut and tightening the upper nut.  Then use the upper nut with your torque wrench to install the stud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T13:15:21.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32734" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:55:15.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The towing capacity of a 2008 Subaru forester with the 2.5l engine is apparently ~1374Kg at worst (or ~2700lb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the trailer you are towing clocks under this (which I assume it will with quite significant margins) you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uktow.com/towing%20capacity.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reference here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't trust that source, if you still have the operators manual or can get hold of one that should tell you both the braked and un-braked towing weight of your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12324" LastEditorUserId="12324" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T14:08:19.910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T14:08:19.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:01:16.007" Score="0" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (santro club) is giving check sign on my meter but when I press the accelarator it went away, as i release my foot it comes again. 2ndly, i am using 45/80 R13 tyre size and my mileage is 11km/litre only.what would be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kindly guide me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19720" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T15:58:13.487" Title="How can I resolve my mileage and CHECK ERROR on my meter?" Tags="|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T15:30:19.673" Score="5" ViewCount="12962" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a weird noise that disappears as soon as you press the brake pedal. When you lift it the noise reappears strongly and then fades slowly. I have a link to a video &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/dMRewVStBkzFdLcYA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; showing this noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/wUTF46smDdBcsNXf8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plot&lt;/a&gt; of how the sound level evolves with time dependent on whether the brake pedal is depressed or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;The car is a Volvo V50 2005 160.000Km 2.0D Diesel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19373" LastEditorUserId="19373" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T07:50:00.303" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T07:50:00.303" Title="Noise disappears when depressing the brake pedal but appears otherwise" Tags="|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32747" CreationDate="2016-07-12T15:58:13.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what specific codes are being thrown, it is difficult to know what might be causing your CEL &quot;Check Engine Light.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend stopping at your local auto-parts store, who should have the ability to pull these codes for you, for free. While these stock &quot;P&quot; codes don't often tell the whole story, they're very valuable in helping diagnose what may be going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be the O2 sensor, the MAF sensor, or something else entirely. The fact that the CEL leaves when you accelerate is concerning, as typically codes thrown from a sensor will stay on until cleared. &#xA;It could be something faulty with the diagnostic system itself, but at that point I'm just speculating - the bottom line is, you need to figure out what &quot;code&quot; is causing the CEL to properly diagnose it.&#xA;If you don't have a local shop who can read the codes, you can also pick up a code-scanning tool inexpensively online, or through a local auto-parts store. The standard OBD-II scanners are the least expensive, but will not read/clear factory specific codes (they will typically only read the default &quot;P&quot; codes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your mileage, are you running the stock tire size?&#xA;The Santro Club OE tire size is 155/70/R13 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pakwheels.com/new-cars/hyundai/santro/club/specifications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to the spec-sheet&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;You mentioned running size 45/80/R13 tires - is it possible that you meant 145/80? If so, you may be running the incorrect tire size which would affect how many miles your car thinks it is going, and would thereby also mess up its fuel consumption calculations (as well as your odometer reading and speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19724" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T15:58:13.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32734" CreationDate="2016-07-12T16:26:23.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subaru states that the Forester is primarily a passenger car, and not built for continual towing. But you should be fine with occasional use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the owners manual section related to towing. Look at page 8-19 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/69506/pdf/ownerManual/069506_2008_Forester/MSA5M0803A_14.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/69506/pdf/ownerManual/069506_2008_Forester/MSA5M0803A_14.pdf&lt;/a&gt;). Several tips in there about towing in general, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary; If you have trailer brakes, you can pull up to 2,400lbs. If you do NOT have trailer brakes, you can pull 1,000lbs. That includes the weight of the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be hard on the transmission? No. The limits set are those prescribed by Subaru. Check your transmission fluid occasionally to make sure it's not burnt (having a transmission cooler will help prevent that), and you'll be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For info, you have a standard automatic transmission. The newer Subarus have the CVT transmission, which has a much lower towing rating, and is not recommended as a workhorse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the towbar installation, talk to a large uHaul dealer near you - they're cheaper than a dealer for the parts and installation, and they know a LOT about towing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T16:26:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12028" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:13:25.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario:  Very carefully grind the bolt head off then slide the head up the bolt.  Once the head is out of the way, remove with a stud remover or weld a new nut to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, first make the head as accessible as possible.  You can rotate the cams a bit carefully if a lobe is in the way, just be sure you don't have valve interference (rotate BY HAND, stop on any resistance).   Shove rags into the oil return holes to prevent metal shavings going down them.  Cover everything else with more rags to minimize metal shavings in the head.  You'll still have metal shavings everywhere so plan on flushing everything.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large drill bit works best for removing the majority of the metal quickly.  Drill down through the head of the bolt and slightly into the shank.  Use a chisel to knock the rest of the head off and a right angle die grinder to clean up any burrs that will inhibit you from sliding the head up the bolt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T17:13:25.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32762" CreationDate="2016-07-12T17:58:31.723" Score="8" ViewCount="32328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2013 Chevy Sonic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the air conditioning does not blow cold air if the car is idling, only when in motion. It seems to blow the coldest during long periods of driving fast, such as on the freeway. Once I have slowed down significantly or stopped, the air blowing out gets warmer and warmer. If I leave the AC on cold long enough (more than about five minutes) while staying slow enough (idling or driving &gt;10mph during heavy traffic), then the engine overheating warning appears on my dashboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eD32m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eD32m.png&quot; alt=&quot;temp warning&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens, I stop, open the windows, and turn on the heat to max. This typically makes the warning go away quickly, within 20-30 seconds. The warning will not come back unless I return to idling with the cold AC on. This has happened at least half a dozen times in the past year, so I typically just turn the AC off when going slow to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time it overheated I refilled the coolant, but that didn't end up having any noticable effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can check on to try to figure out the source of this problem? Is it something urgent that I should get checked out right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19729" LastActivityDate="2023-12-09T15:00:32.593" Title="When idling, AC does not work and engine overheats. What's the cause?" Tags="|chevrolet|ac|overheating|sonic|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32754" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:15:56.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T18:15:56.953" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T18:15:56.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32755" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:15:56.953" Score="0" Body="A component of the ignition system that, by induction, creates the high voltage required by the spark plugs." OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T19:21:18.083" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:21:18.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T18:55:52.957" Score="6" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most if not all cylinder heads are one big block. Why don't some car manufacturer use a single cylinder head for each cylinder? What are some of the biggest drawbacks of this type of method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be for any ICE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-11-13T18:43:34.403" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T23:06:25.840" Title="Why don't cars have a cylinder head with separate barrels?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32756" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:12:10.373" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few factors to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ease and cost of mass-production.&lt;/strong&gt; Individual barrels require individual assembly, whereas a cast piece of metal has a lot of things built-in and assembly can be automated much more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durability.&lt;/strong&gt; Engines make vibration, that can't be helped. A solid piece of metal can both handle and channel this better than individual parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooling.&lt;/strong&gt; Engines put out A LOT of heat. A solid piece of metal can conduct this away very easily and very quickly, but more to the point, the cooling system has &quot;conduits&quot; cast into the engine directly. These aren't hoses that can crack and leak, these are &quot;channels&quot; that are burrowed into the solid metal block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, individual barrels would allow you to swap an individual warped barrel out instead of machining the entire block, and a combustion upgrade would be as simple as swapping out all your individual barrels for larger ones instead of boring out your block, but none of these rank high on a manufacturer's priorities list. Low cost of manufacture and durability are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorDisplayName="user26865" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T04:32:35.757" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T04:32:35.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:19:56.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the 1st gear synchro to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the clutch in disengages the engine from the input shaft, so waiting a moment gives it time to come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was the clutch it would do this in all gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grinding is 1st gear crunching on the input shaft without a synchro mating correctly while the input shaft is still turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:19:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:02:47.420" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;This wire comes off a automotive multi-pin relay block/connector housing. Requesting help to identify what type/name of connector it is. -Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g9k5g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g9k5g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Undetermined connector type&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jack" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:32:43.880" Title="What type of connector / terminal end is this?" Tags="|relay|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32759" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:06:42.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crimped female spade terminal?&#xA;They are available at any hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MadHatter" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:06:42.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32759" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:55:11.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Female 1/4&quot; tab terminal - one trade name is &quot;Faston&quot;.  Should be available in auto supply shops, hardware stores, marine supply...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12111" OwnerDisplayName="Peter Bennett" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:55:11.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32753" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:44:46.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things spring to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;confirm radiator fan operation (per &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32753/when-idling-ac-does-not-work-and-engine-overheats-whats-the-cause/32762#comment54067_32753&quot;&gt;user3188168's suggestion&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fans are vital in ensuring air flow across the both radiator and A/C condenser when the car is stationary or moving slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things could cause them to not run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blown fuse(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad relays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wiring open&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lack of command for the fans to turn on from the ECU (typically governed by a engine coolant temperature sensor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;belt slippage with the A/C engaged&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that this is applicable to your case though, since this would cause issues with alternator charging and loss of power steering assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:44:46.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32766" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:35:31.143" Score="23" ViewCount="90891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always changed the oil in my vehicles with the engine hot, because the manuals always say to let the engine reach normal operating temperature first. Oil change instructions all over the internet say this, too. I've never done it cold because everything says not to, and I never questioned this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've burned myself on more than one occasion, last night being the most recent, and it makes it trickier to get the filter out when you have to play Operation on a hot car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I have to change the oil when the engine is hot and what happens if I do it cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T08:30:35.950" LastActivityDate="2022-05-27T19:07:52.710" Title="What happens if I change the oil when the engine is cold?" Tags="|engine|oil-change|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32763" CreationDate="2016-07-12T21:10:46.597" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefits of changing it hot are the that oil is less viscous, so it flows better, allowing more of the old oil to drain. It will also drain more quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know when I do mine, I let the engine warm up, but not to full operating temperature. Even through latex gloves, full temp oil would burn my hand, and I can do without that. And getting it at least more than warm but not scalding hot, things flow really well. This way you get the best of both worlds, including not burning yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastEditorUserId="10003" LastEditDate="2019-05-13T19:27:50.170" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T19:27:50.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32756" CreationDate="2016-07-12T22:36:57.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most modern car engines have overhead camshafts. Overhead camshafts pretty much oblige the use of a one-piece cylinder head. Imagine the difficulties of aligning the camshaft if each cylinder had a separate cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to seal the cooling and oil passages of a water cooled engine if there are less joints. Less components also means faster assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the past, large castings statistically had greater possibilities of defects than smaller ones. This led manufacturers to design cylinder blocks and heads in groups of no more than 2 or 3 cylinders. As technology has improved this has become less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these advantages, separate cylinder heads still find use in air cooled motorcycle and aviation engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T22:36:57.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T23:13:42.103" Score="4" ViewCount="3229" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Tucson. Back in March or April it died on her while starting it up. It cranked fine, ran for 5-10 seconds, and then stalled. She was able to then start it up again and it ran just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then it has been doing it on and off intermittently, but it seems to be getting worse lately. Last week it stalled again and then when I restarted it the check engine light was on. I took it to get checked and it was the MAP sensor. I had that replaced yesterday and the engine seems to run a little more smoothly, but the issue still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like it happens only when the engine is warmed up. If I drive it from home to a store and am only in for a couple minutes it feels more likely to happen. Sometimes it will stall twice in a row and giving it gas to force it up to about 1200-1500 RPM seems to help it stay running. It doesn't have any driving issues - once it's started it is good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today it happened to me again. After it stalled I turned the key without starting it to see what would happen. I heard an electronic hum type noise repeating - as if it was trying to start something up and having trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my research into the issue, it is likely either an airflow or fuel related issue. The intermittent stalling seems to sound more like the IAC (or in my case it seems to be integrated with the Throttle Body and called an Electronic Throttle Control). The electronic hum might sound more like a fuel relay/pump issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My background with working on vehicles is limited. I'd like to get better at it and be able to do more myself. If it's the throttle body/IAC it seems fairly easy to clean and possibly replace it. The fuel relay looks easy too, but the fuel pump sounds difficult and expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my questions are: do my scenarios sound likely or do you think I'd be better off look at something else first? How do I troubleshoot and test each part to figure out what is wrong? I'd like to get this resolved myself if possible, but I don't want to get in over my head either. Any suggestions are appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19708" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T23:30:43.153" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T20:36:30.113" Title="2010 Hyundai Tucson Intermittently Stalling After Starting" Tags="|starting|hyundai|stall|tucson|hot-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32769" CreationDate="2016-07-12T23:47:26.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the car is unable to maintain sufficient pressure in the fuel rail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/27558/675&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more details on potential causes for hot start problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually a good strategy to confirm suspicions through measurements and/or diagnostic tests, many of which can actually be performed by an average DIY-er. As you saw with the MAP sensor, the diagnostic codes report symptoms, not necessarily root causes. The alternative to diagnosis (what i affectionately like to call &lt;em&gt;parts roulette&lt;/em&gt;) can get expensive and frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T23:47:26.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T00:10:39.717" Score="7" ViewCount="19548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 20 year old Subaru wagon, and the A/C seems to work fairly well except when it is extremely hot outside (&gt; 100 F / 40 C - which happens a lot in the summer here). What I wonder about is that the compressor cycles on and off regularly even when it is quite hot inside the car. I would think it would stay on until the interior of the car cools down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blower has 4 settings: on 1, the air from the vents is very cold, but there is not enough circulation to be useful, so I would expect the compressor to cut off sometimes then. On 2 it has a good balance of cold air and movement, but still cycles on and off. On 3 the air is not as cold, but it still cycles on and off. It is loud and I usually do not run the blower on 3. On 4 it is a howling tepid wind and I cannot tell if the compressor cycles then, but I do not use it on that setting unless it is outrageously hot in the car. I keep the temperature slider all the way to the cold side at all times except perhaps in January.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what controls the compressor cycling, since it does not seem to be very dependent on the air temperature inside the car? Is it measuring the temperature directly at the cooling core?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addition:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there any actual temperature sensing in a car this old? If the A/C system pressures were correct, would the compressor simply run continuously? My understanding is that the temperature slider is not a thermostatic device, it just allows air to blow through the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15009" LastEditorDisplayName="user15009" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T13:37:18.510" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:11:30.627" Title="Why does the Air Conditioner compressor cycle on and off even when it is hot in the car?" Tags="|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32772" CreationDate="2016-07-13T00:23:30.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's probably too much system pressure. Ambient temp has an effect on A/C system pressure. If the high side goes too high than it trips a switch and cut's power to the A/C compressor clutch. Hence the short cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you're on the mid to high side of 300psi on the high pressure line and when ambient temp goes up pressure goes above 400psi tripping the high pressure switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a shop check your pressures when it's &gt; 100°F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on a car that old there may not be an Evaporator temperature sensor. On some modern cars this sensor will signal a shutdown to ECM/PCM to turn off the compressor clutch when the evaporator temperature goes too low. To prevent freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cars with automatic A/C if the ambient temperature sensor isn't working (broken wires/short whatever) It'll prevent the ECM/PCM from operating the compressor clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T23:11:30.627" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:11:30.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32763" CreationDate="2016-07-13T00:30:17.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of a cup with sediment (dirt, sand).  If you shake it up real good, then dump it out, you will get most everything out.  If you let it sit overnight, the dirt and sand settle to the bottom.  When you go to dump it out, you dump mostly water, and most of the sediment is still at the bottom of the cup.  Your oil is similar with the gunk you are trying to clean out.  Allowing it to at least partially heat up lets oil circulate through all the passages and pickup any gunk you want to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T00:30:17.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32807" CreationDate="2016-07-13T00:42:24.327" Score="3" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know would any Ford L4 Gasket work on any Ford L4 Engine? Are The parts interchangeable or do different L4 Ford Engines have different variation and if so how many ? Also just as a side question is the same true for all gaskets? Will they work on the manufacturer engine type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T17:02:33.053" Title="Will any Gasket Work on a Ford L4 Engine?" Tags="|gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32777" CreationDate="2016-07-13T01:07:01.517" Score="4" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know what are all the holes for on a engine block deck surface? I Know some are to help with putting the cylinder head on and others are to bolt the head down. But what are the rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T02:10:26.947" Title="What are all the holes on an engine block deck surface?" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32776" CreationDate="2016-07-13T01:18:54.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other holes are to allow coolant and/or oil to flow through the cylinder head and engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coolant is needed to help cool down the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a Chrysler engine block with coolant holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7SjD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7SjD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chrysler Block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.440source.com/deck1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;440source.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On overhead cam engines the camshafts require oil for lubricating the journal bearings that they spin on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T02:10:26.947" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T02:10:26.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T02:13:54.223" Score="3" ViewCount="4046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, my wife's car (a 2009 Toyota Sienna AWD) wouldn't start, and this came clear out of the blue.  A jump fixed it.  We let the car sit idle for a good 30 minutes, and it was able to start up later in the day.  Today, it needed another two jumps, and I took it to AutoZone to get the battery tested.  It was an old battery and it came up bad, so I bought a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ran the tester again, and it said that the alternator was good but that the voltage regulator was bad.  He said it was odd, because it was still showing 13.48V at load.  I took it home and ran some tests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery voltage with car off: 12.7V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car idling: 13.49V, and voltage increased steadily over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car idling with all accessories on: 13.2-13.3V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car revving at 2000 RPMs with all accessories on: 13.4V&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea if this would indicate a bad voltage regulator?  The steps I saw online made it sound like this would check out, but I'd welcome feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19737" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T02:54:21.993" Title="Is my voltage regulator really bad?" Tags="|toyota|battery|alternator|sienna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25931" CreationDate="2016-07-13T02:34:18.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing old with new won't hurt anything. If your engine is consuming too much oil, for instance, you would need to add new oil more frequently because you need the right oil level all the time. I have got cars that needed as much as 1L of new oil every 1 or 2 weeks because the oil piston rings where kaput. Nothing happened except $ going down there as frequently as not eager to :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T02:34:18.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32778" CreationDate="2016-07-13T02:54:21.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me more an alternator problem: I ran with a problem like that precisely this year, and was the alternator brushes being dirty making a poor electrical contact inside the alternator. That will make the alternator not provide enough juice. My experience is that regulators &quot;work or won't work&quot;. Also check the alternator belt. Under load or sudden revving would make the alternator not spin enough because a loose belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing or dirty brushes/carbons contacts can't be detected by a multimeter; if they touch their tracks even dirty, the meter will show some reading, but when you load the electric consumption they will fail to let the alternator produce enough. You can only check diodes and contacts in general, with a meter, but not the brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T02:54:21.993" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32772" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:05:58.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ambient temperature influences the pressure in refrigeration system. Cars a/c may have two sensors, one in the low pressure line and one in the high pressure line, that controls when to stop the compressor if some abnormality in the pressures are sensed. &lt;strong&gt;It is possible that your system is overfilled, since underfilled may also create ice in your evaporator (inside the car).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be the temperature control, since otherwise it works on less hot days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car service manual may say something about this, but for instance, for a 4 doors &quot;normal transportation&quot; car a/c compressor, the low side pressure for 100F, 2000 rpm, should be between 31 to 42 PSI (20 to 90% humedity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:05:58.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32763" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:08:01.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I change oil, I use to run the engine warm enough, but never &quot;untouchable hot&quot;. Never to operating temperature, that's what? 180F degrees? I let it get some temperature I can deal with. Then let it drain down all the time it takes. I usually uncap the breather and remove the stick gauge to speed up the process. The oil comes out warm but not enough to burn my hands, say, like hot shower water :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:08:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32748" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:33:38.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car is running&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise is &quot;clacking&quot; and the car is running, it is typical when the break pads or shoes are worn, there is dirty in the calipers or drum preventing the system to be relocated correctly to the right position for its elements (pads, springs, pins, etc), the break pistons are applying force to the pads/shoes but then leaving too much gap between them when released. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be a slightly bent disk or oval drum, adding vibration to the system. What makes the noise is commonly the pads/shoes hitting their pistons or the retaining pins. When you press the pedal, the pads/shoes gets against the disk/drum therefore the system elements kinda tights in together and the noise disappear. If aside the noise you can sense some vibration in the pedal, even just almost un-noticeable, then the disk/drum are bent for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is not running&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise then will be a &quot;hiss&quot; or &quot;sissing&quot;, it may be an air leak at the booster or the linkage to it and its vacuum hose, or even the hose as well. But that may also induce the engine to rev up because the hose is attached to the intake manifold, and any &quot;external&quot; air leak will make the engine rev up. Check that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:33:38.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32753" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:41:55.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engine overheating is not related with A/C misoperation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine overheating while idle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad timing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low cooling liquid level &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty radiator (outside but also inside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator fan malfunction &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air in the engine cooling system (it WILL overheat the engine and very fast)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low oil level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would: drain all cooling liquid from engine by uncorking the radiator's valve underneath it. Watch for any dirty, etc. If no dirt, then cork it up again and add new liquid, being sure to squeeze the thick hoses from engine to radiator, like a hand pump, to evacuate any trapped air there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get some dirty out of the radiator, I would plug the garden hose to the cooling recipient and let water fill and run out for a while, also squeezing the hoses, then cork up and refill as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a/c not working well in idle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose belt (won't turn the compressor enough in idle, therefore under compressing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refrigerant gas wrong pressures (too low to cool but still not too low to make ice. Yes, low refrigerant gas will produce ice in the evaporator, ie, inside the car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad a/c fans (not extracting the heat enough from the a/c condenser, ie, the outside &quot;radiator&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the a/c cycles (turns on/off itself) then it can be the pressure sensors working (either low pressure, or high pressure sensors). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: engine overheating is an engine problem (timing or engine cooling system, or even low oil level) NOT induced by the a/c system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastEditorUserId="19738" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T03:49:12.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:49:12.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:55:48.420" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clutch pump or cylinder (master or slave, or worse, the two of them) bad or on the way to so. You can engage 1st after a long kick probably because these are getting &quot;lazy&quot; and requires more pressure to move their pistons and therefore move the clutch elements. That's typical when the rubber rings inside the pumps are getting swollen and requires more force to move them. Other gears may shift better since the car is running and their synchros are doing their job to assume any differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: new pumps or cylinders will fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:55:48.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T03:57:15.047" Score="3" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start I have a lot of deletes and tuned ecu on a B18 bottom end with B16 top. Turbo has been set to cut out at 5psi on the ecu. &#xA;I have a good feeling it is something fuel as I am having problems keeping any pressure in the fuel lines to keep it running. I have powered the pump alone and it works. I put my fuel pump relay in a friends car and it works. Brand new fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge attached. it now won't even start.&#xA;What could be going on??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T03:57:15.047" Title="2000 Honda Civic SiR turbo sputter and stalling" Tags="|honda|civic|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32737" CreationDate="2016-07-13T04:06:34.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slipping clutch by excessive wear. You need to change ideally the whole thing: pressure plate, disk and bearing. It could be oil leak but it would &quot;burn&quot; and eventually work, temporaly anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T04:06:34.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32763" CreationDate="2016-07-13T04:52:26.557" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No &lt;em&gt;problem&lt;/em&gt; doing it cold, but better to do it hot so the oil flows easier.  Proper tools will help, and so will experience.  I've been burned a lot too, but that's because I'm not very adept, and have worked in &quot;quick lube&quot; environments where the customer is in the waiting room after coming off the highway, and I did not have the luxury of any cool-down time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shadetree trick that costs nothing, is to run a drywall screw into the bottom of the oil filter.  After the pan is completely drained, back out the screw and drain the &quot;reserve&quot; quantity of oil in the filter.  This mitigates most of the chance of getting burned during filter removal, and makes the job a whole lot cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T08:21:40.340" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T08:21:40.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32791" CreationDate="2016-07-13T05:19:02.053" Score="6" ViewCount="5251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ford Focus SE wagon. I want to place jack stands on the welds on the side of the car beneath the front and rear doors, but cannot fit both the jack and stands there. So I want to jack the car up from somewhere underneath so that I have room to put the jack stands on the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone show me a picture of exactly which parts of the undercarriage are safe to jack from? Ideally I am looking for a point on the underside close to the center so I can lift both wheels at once.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a diagram on one of the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/4928/mk3-ford-focus-jack-points&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; (about a much later version of the Focus) which the author says &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; apply to my model car, but the diagram looks different from what I'm seeing underneath and I don't want to make a mistake. So I would really appreciate it if someone who has a 200x Ford Focus could share a photo, or a very detailed verbal description that will help me understand exactly where I should put the jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:24:27.753" Title="Safe jack / jack stand points for 2002 Ford Focus" Tags="|ford|focus|safety|jack|jack-stand|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32790" CreationDate="2016-07-13T06:20:55.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the places that you can place the jack on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCzpB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rear left wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCzpB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rear left wheel&quot; title=&quot;Rear left wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4WHh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Rear right wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4WHh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rear right wheel&quot; title=&quot;Rear right wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vti0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front left pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vti0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front left pic 1&quot; title=&quot;Front left pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDlyU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front left pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDlyU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front left pic 2&quot; title=&quot;Front left pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0BLy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front right pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0BLy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front right pic1&quot; title=&quot;Front right pic 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3t9AL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Front right pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3t9AL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Front right pic2&quot; title=&quot;Front right pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Motoring!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T06:20:55.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32790" CreationDate="2016-07-13T06:49:53.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jackstand points on that car should be placed on the pinch welds near the door. underneath the car toward the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OyzbGDn6xg&quot;&gt;Where to properly jack up and support a car&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that video he explains how to do it. NEVER under any circumstances should you place jackstands underneath suspension components, or anything that has the capacity to move around in any axial manner. The subframe if your car has one, is acceptable, but NEVER under a control arm. Unless you're feeling really lucky that day, just use the pinch weld which he explains. Since you're a newbie to this, I would also leave a jack resting on the underside of the car you're working on just in case something happens. Also put the wheels underneath the vehicle as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I'd make a video but it's late here and I don't have light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please be very careful and use common sense, I've had a car dropped on my by someone that wasn't paying attention and still have issues with my sternum to this day. I would have been slowly suffocated and died if others weren't there. When people first start out doing this, they don't always get good advice. Which is scary, because this is serious stuff. I hope that video helps, and I suggest the pinch welds, and suggest following his advice. He's been doing it for 20+ years and I know him personally. Damn good technician!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm considering this an answer since I provided professional advice, and I noticed that someone else recommended using suspension for jackstands...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel it's important to intervene when things like that are posted. You could get hurt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T06:49:53.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32798" CreationDate="2016-07-13T07:05:38.187" Score="2" ViewCount="3215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am installing both front sway bar links on my 2002 Ford Focus SE wagon. I ordered a pair of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C5449G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MOOG K80066 Stabilizer Bar Link Kits&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. They did not come with any instructions, and I am totally new to working on cars, so I had a couple of questions about installing them properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) They have attachments for a grease gun. Do I need to grease them out of the box, or do they come pre-greased? How do I know when they need new grease? Also, what type of grease should I use in them, and how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I installed the first one, and decided to tighten the nuts attaching the ends of the stabilizer link really hard. Thinking about it afterwards, I realized that maybe there was a specific torque they were supposed to be tightened to, and that I might have seriously over tightened them.  How tight am I supposed to fasten the nuts? Is it possible that I did permanent damage to the bushings by overtightening them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T10:30:24.267" Title="Installing Moog stabilizer / sway bar links on 2002 Ford Focus" Tags="|suspension|focus|torque|grease|fastener|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T08:27:49.323" Score="5" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my vehicle in for the cam-belt service drove back home and noticed this whine/supercharger noise which increases in loudness when I press down on the throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the cam-belt is too tight but the mechanic says that can't be because the tensioner is self tensioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could the problem be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a video of the sound &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zCWxuVo7l8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The vehicle is a 2010 model with 67000 odd KM on the clock.&#xA;Also, as others have stated, the vehicle is turbo charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Looks like it may be a bad belt tensioner. New one is being ordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19748" LastEditorUserId="19748" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T14:06:17.377" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T14:06:17.377" Title="Focus ST 2.5 MK2 - Cambelt changed, super charger noise when giving throttle" Tags="|ford|focus|noise|camshaft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40034" CreationDate="2016-07-13T09:21:18.307" Score="4" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen various clays or clay like products listed with different types of &quot;cut&quot; like mild or aggressive, fine or medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the uses for these different &quot;cuts&quot; and how would I choose which one to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T08:21:41.357" Title="How to choose between mild and agressive clay &quot;cut&quot;?" Tags="|detailing|polishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T09:46:00.277" Score="6" ViewCount="14684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am tracing the operation of the ECU. I want to supply it with power but what is the ECU voltage input that I should supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19750" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:54:26.057" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T12:08:04.503" Title="What voltage does the ECU need?" Tags="|electrical|electronic-control-module|electronics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32794" CreationDate="2016-07-13T09:57:23.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;probably its that supercharger bearing which is faulty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U should replace it and after learn it that vehicles with super or turbo chargers should be given time after starting and before starting of about 5 minutes to allow the lubricant rise to the bearings or flow down to the sump respectively before accelerating the vehicle. This will maxumise the long life span of the charger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19750" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T09:57:23.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32793" CreationDate="2016-07-13T10:30:24.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely you tightened them to the point of causing  some damage. The paperwork that comes with the parts should have a reference to torque specs. An on line reference I found gives a value of 37ftlbs. As far as grease I use the chassis grease from the auto parts store. I generally give them a shot of grease prior to installation. I do this mostly to verify I will be able to grease it later. Two or three pumps is usually enough. You want to see the rubber boot swell but not so much that the grease pours out. This is done at every oil change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T10:30:24.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32802" CreationDate="2016-07-13T12:42:19.017" Score="8" ViewCount="37127" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1998 I6 - 4.0L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~175,300 mi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13.8 mpg - mostly city&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months ago, I began to hear a noise that sounds similar to a diesel engine, which begins a few seconds after starting the cold engine. Once warmed up, or as soon as driving or revving, the noise goes away completely. An M4A sound file is linked under &lt;strong&gt;What&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I primarily make short trips ~9 mi, alternating back-roads and highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Loudest at the bottom of the block. Stethoscope doesn't reveal any distinct source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;A few seconds after starting, until warm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Lf8RzbGGkWbzI0TWlCY21NRE0/view?usp=drivesdk&amp;amp;formCheck=fbb69496c3c9dd578a2ec1f4011c38f7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knocking&lt;/a&gt;, sounds similar to hammer striking to solid metal plate without resonation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;I'd love to know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through forums, I've seen many different hypothesis as to what it might be, none of which seem to fit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piston slap - I imagine this would occur all the time, in the first&#xA;few seconds after starting, and get worse with revving. I haven't removed the oil pan to check for skirt fragments, but have taken a magnet to it to listen for pieces that might &quot;snap&quot; to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose flex plate bolts / cracks - all bolts were torqued, no visible cracks on inspection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuck/clogged lifter - I pulled the valve cover and looked for rods that weren't delivering oil, loose rockers. All appeared OK, bolts were still torqued. I would expect this to also make noise as soon as I start the engine, or while revving, before warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spun bearing - I haven't removed the oil pan to check - but imagine if this was the issue, she would have broken down since I first posted this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty oil - Ran sea foam in the oil for ~100 mi, changed previous full synth out @ 3k mi (came out like midnight), replaced with full synthetic, Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 subbing 1 qt with Marvel Mystery Oil (though I always used Castrol GTX high-mileage before this and the last change).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intermittently, a few seconds after starting, the engine will &quot;moan&quot; for a second or two. I've caught this about 3 times in the past few weeks. Serpentine belt is def a bit loose, will squelch if revved immediately after starting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tach quivers during idle, engine appears to miss intermittently. (this has been ongoing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23020/hard-cold-starts-only&quot;&gt;Hard starts&lt;/a&gt; when engine is cold. (This was addressed in another question, but returned)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pressure varies greatly. Needle moves a bit during idle at around 20, stays steady around 50 while driving. This used to jump, or not register at all until I wiggled the engine sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio head unit illumination will go out intermittently. Punching it temporarily fixes it and relieves stress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Oil was a quart low at the last change (3k mi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: &lt;strong&gt;It appears that with the cold weather (it's 40F out atm), the noise has disappeared&lt;/strong&gt;. Possibly unrelated: CEL light went on, and back off - transmission malfunction codes were thrown, noting shift solenoid B (gears 2/3). Higher RPMs were required to get the vehicle moving, intermittently, but has since gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11291" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T05:37:15.343" Title="Engine tap/knock/noise within a few seconds of starting" Tags="|engine|automatic-transmission|jeep|noise|cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32801" CreationDate="2016-07-13T15:48:30.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knocking sounds reflect worn out parts, which had got so much tolerance than oil can't fill the gap any longer. It could also be the oil itself, being to thin or too old (and got thinner). If the noise is only in the bottom then it could be the bearings in the crankshaft, or the displacement bush also in the crankshaft at the extremes of it. However a &quot;diesel engine&quot; kind of rhythmical continual tapping noise is typical heard when the valves or the camshaft are worn, or there is too much valve clearance. If the engine has oil plunges to move the valves, one of them may be getting &quot;lazy&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T15:48:30.303" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32842" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:15:28.853" Score="7" ViewCount="17706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of doing a leakdown test on an engine before I install it in my car. Of course the problem is that the engine will be cold and things won't seal the way they do when they are hot. So how does the leak down testing procedure change when the engine is cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:49:38.190" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T11:25:23.377" Title="How to leak down test a cold engine?" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|compression|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32801" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:40:06.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that your engine has hydraulic lash adjusters for the valves. These remove the need for valve clearance adjustments as they work on oil pressure. The trouble is that they have very small inlet/outlet holes to admit oil, and often get clogged up, restricting the flow of thick, cold oil at engine start and causing the tapping noise. When the oil is hot and flows better, the adjusters operate properly. I know you said that the noise appears to be louder from the bottom of the block, so I can't say it definitely is this, but I can suggest it's just a side effect of the stethoscope transmitting the sound directly through the block, since there's a big air gap between the cylinder head + valves and the top of the engine where you'd touch a stethoscope to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1985 Supra has an L6 with hydraulic adjusters and has quite a reputation for the tapping noise on startup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: forgot to say, you can buy oil additives that are supposed to clean out the lash adjusters and remove the tap. I can't comment on their effectiveness as my engine does not suffer (yet). As I understand, adjuster tap is merely annoying and otherwise harmless to the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T16:40:06.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32827" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:44:49.087" Score="11" ViewCount="30881" Body="&lt;p&gt;When heading to the store to pick up a new set of spark plug wires, I found three products at this particular shop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Product #1:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price: Cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boots: EPDM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core: Suppression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulation: EPDM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Temp: 356F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Product #2 (labelled &quot;Gold Series&quot;):&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price: 2x Product #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boots: EPDM Top, Polyester Tube, Silicone Tip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core: Suppression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulation: Silicone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Temp: 482F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Product #3 (labelled &quot;High Performance&quot;):&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price: 4x Product #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boots: Silicone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core: Spiral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insulation: Silicone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max Temp: Unknown, but presumably high given silicone use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrically, these just all seem to be wires that move electrons around and successfully fire the spark plugs, all presumably large enough to handle the required currents, all presumably with resistances in an appropriate range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product #3's description states (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[These] wire sets utilize a construction method known as &quot;variable pitch&quot; wire winding to create resistance to radio frequency interference. They have a lower resistance than conventional carbon core wires, which translates into &lt;strong&gt;longer wire life&lt;/strong&gt;. At the center of each wire is a fiberglass stranded core, made from the same family of materials as those used in bulletproof vests. This core greatly &lt;strong&gt;enhances the overall strength of the wire&lt;/strong&gt; and prevents the pulling strains that wires are often subjected to. They feature custom-designed terminal boots that provide an exact fit and high-quality EPDM and silicone coverings to &lt;strong&gt;resist high temperatures, oil, and chemical damage&lt;/strong&gt;. Each wire is fitted with a positive-locking, &lt;strong&gt;corrosion-resistant&lt;/strong&gt;, nickel plated terminal end for a tight fit and &lt;strong&gt;maximum resistance to vibration and separation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do &quot;high performance&quot; spark plug wires affect how the vehicle runs in the short term and, if so, how? I can't imagine what effect the wires could possibly have but their marketing departments have successfully kicked me into full consumer-mode and hooked me with the word &quot;performance&quot; and a high price point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In any case, it seems like the major difference is simply durability, given the description of product #3. Is this true, and does this justify the extra cost (e.g. if an expensive wire has an expected lifetime less than 4x a cheap one, but costs more than 4x more, why would I buy it)? I imagine even the cheapest will last many tens of thousands of miles or more, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T20:51:30.163" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T06:09:10.433" Title="What is gained with &quot;performance&quot; spark plug wires?" Tags="|maintenance|performance|spark-plug-wires|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16897" CreationDate="2016-07-13T16:59:53.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do this with my Ford Fiesta and Puma - it's all about fuel. When the ignition key is turned on, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds, then shuts off. This ensures there is enough fuel pressure in the rail to start (since a richer mixture is required to start when cold). The Puma did not like me turning the key straight to START without waiting for the pump to run; it would cough a few times and stall. Letting the pump add pressure would ensure a perfect start each time. The smaller Fiesta engine (same series as the Puma) didn't seem to mind starting straight from OFF.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Paulster2 noted, modern fuel-injected cars maintain pressure at the rail for a long time, both making starting quicker, and maintenance more time-consuming! Most current injection systems do not return unused fuel to the tank, so the pump will only run to bring the pressure up to operation. My general rule is that, if you turn the ignition ON and there's a soft buzzing noise, wait for that to shut off before starting the engine. If it doesn't, you can start it without waiting. My 1985 Supra only runs the fuel pump when the key is turned to START (and once the engine is confirmed running) so there is no need to wait at ON for anything to happen before cranking the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T16:59:53.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32775" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:02:33.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the par numbers cross reference, then they should be interchangeable. Otherwise they may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases the difference in a gasket my not be the shape, but the materials as well. So even a gasket that appears to fit may not function correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a production standpoint, all the L4 motors of the same model year would have a fair likelihood of having interchangeable parts - &lt;strong&gt;but not necessarily&lt;/strong&gt;. It really depends on what the engineers decided to change on the motor, and sometime they may have decided to change the gasket design as well. The only way to know for sure is to check the part numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T17:02:33.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26864" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:14:34.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your problem is a depleted battery (you don't specify exactly what starting problems you're having), then I recommend putting the battery on a maintenance charger overnight. Some of these, you can plug into your lighter socket (if it's permanent-live with the key out) for convenience. Lead-acid car batteries do not like standing in cold temperatures; it reduces their performance drastically. If you keep even a small amount of power trickling through the battery, they will almost always maintain enough charge to start the next time you go to it. I've had great success with solar trickle chargers in this regard (obviously not for overnight use...).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your area suffers particularly cold winters (e.g. northern Canada), you might consider a block heater. Pre-heating the engine block and oil will result in much less resistance for the starter to work against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T17:14:34.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31994" CreationDate="2016-07-13T17:24:06.183" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ELM-327 supports exclusively Engine Control Units. It cannot communicate with anything else on the CANBus. I think this is intentional by the manufacturers to ensure that the $10,000 diagnostic computers stay $10,000 :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T17:24:06.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19445" CreationDate="2016-07-13T19:56:09.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The B+ wire is likely alright if you noticed it on time, but the problem is due to the drained battery and the bad connection around the fuse. If it was the wrong gauge or something, it wouldn't melt around the fuse but likely elsewhere or wouldn't provide enough current to cause any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened to me on 2002 Beetle a week ago. After my alternator died, I, apparently, drove on battery till it died in turn and I had to be towed. Alternators are meant to maintain battery charge and not to charge a totally dead battery as it would draw a very high current that may damage the alternator and, yes, melt the fuse. I replaced the fuse box, sanded well all the contacts, replaced 110A fuse, and greased everything up while charging the removed battery by a dedicated battery charger. The ammeter on the charger was showing very high current for a first couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While replacing $150 worth harness won't hurt, get a peace of mind and buy a battery charger to use next time alternator dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19610" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T19:56:09.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:14:49.627" Score="7" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I noticed something strange with my car. I was at a gym studio when I turned the key and I noticed it took a few &quot;er er&quot;'s longer before it started. As anxious I am about my expensive toys, I let it run for 30 sec, switched it off and started again - no problems this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going home from work this evening, I turned the key - glowplug icon lit up, went off a second later, and another second later I started. It cranked way longer than before. Usually it would go like &quot;Eerr vroooomm&quot;, now it went like &quot;Er er er er er er vroooom&quot;. No problems after starting the engine in regards to driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be due to leaving the A/C on? The last couple of days, I haven't turned it off due to high humidity air - and surprisingly enough - this is the first time it has ever happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Ambient temp around 15 celsius)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the car a few months ago, and have always been enabling/disabling A/C during operation, never left it on before now - neither did the previous owner (positive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could this be the culprit?&lt;/strong&gt; I turned off A/C about 5 min before arriving home now, and I'll try to go out to start it and go for a short drive in a couple of hours to see if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it be required, my car is a Volkswagen Transporter T5 (2007) 1.9L TDI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19762" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T21:00:47.470" Title="Longer crank time" Tags="|engine|ac|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32744" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:21:09.810" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid burns white if the diaphram in the booster chamber ruptures. Do you get more white smoke when you pump the brakes? Because the booster chamber is connected to the intake, a leak here will suck fluid into the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe just check brake fluid level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19761" LastEditorUserId="15648" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T05:56:23.130" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T05:56:23.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14624" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:25:17.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;most likely it because of wear and tear.sitting unused for long periods is also another cause. the rubber seals must have dried up. i bet its time to replace your slave and master cylinders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19763" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T20:25:17.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:32:42.240" Score="2" ViewCount="47803" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving my 2008 Mercedes Benz C300 the message, &quot;ESP not available&quot; keeps showing up. The car slows down immediately and I cannot accelerate since it wont take any gas. I have to shut it down and restart it to be able to drive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19764" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T23:20:04.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:22:52.600" Title="Esp not available message" Tags="|mercedes-benz|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T09:27:49.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9541" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:41:41.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel the single click when brake pedal goes near floor it means break oil and brake lines have air bubbles which have loosened the strength and the point at which it clicks means that your pedal ha got passed the press limit due to fault.bleed the brake oil and release extra air add some new brake fluid.keeping in view that disc pads are normal and pins are lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19766" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T20:41:41.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32814" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:44:57.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The full message should be &quot;ESP not available, see owner's manual&quot;, so you should check your owner's manual for troubleshooting tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/505469-esp-not-available-car-goes-into-limp-mode.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/505469-esp-not-available-car-goes-into-limp-mode.html&lt;/a&gt; the slow down may be an intentional self-protection mode. There's any number of reasons why this could be happening and it is not possible to answer your question precisely here with the information given (it is akin to asking &quot;why is my check engine light on&quot;), your best bet is to take it to a service center to run some diagnostics to narrow it down further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you Google for that message, it really could be anything. Problems I see range from bad batteries to low tire pressure to steering angle sensor issues to holes in boost pipes to whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T20:44:57.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32811" CreationDate="2016-07-13T21:00:47.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see how leaving an A/C on would contribute to longer cranking, since most if not all modern vehicles will disable auxiliaries (e.g. A/C blower fan, radio) during cranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A longer crank is usually a telltale sign of lack of sufficient charge from the battery. If your battery hasn't been replaced in a while it would be a prime suspect for what you're observing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T21:00:47.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2016-07-13T21:28:50.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rented a ford mustang, while reaching to adjust the a/c controls while driving on the interstate my finger accidentally hit the stop start button and at 70 mph the engine immediately shut down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to restart was to coast across 3 lanes of traffic, stop the car, put it in park, put my foot on the brake and push the start button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't believe that one, it would let you shut off the engine above a specific speed, or two, there would not be a sensor/override that would allow a restart at that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this accidentally on the interstate, then repeated it in a parking lot, the result was the same there was no 3 second push/hold, if you touch that button engine will stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19767" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T21:28:50.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26218" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:07:11.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Russia many pro drivers and just experienced drivers brake with transmission by shifting to lower gear in speed and letting go clutch fast no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19771" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:07:11.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32805" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:13:02.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auroraelectronics.com/Understanding%20Spark%20Plug%20Wires.htm&quot;&gt;Here's an article that explains spark plug cables&lt;/a&gt;. It had some interesting information that I hadn't really thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'd say the largest difference in consumer grade spark plug cables will be on durability. It will probably have a bit of better electrical traits (e.g. resistance), but I don't imagine you get a large gap in spark performance until you hit the purpose built ranges. Finally, I've personally never installed &quot;performance&quot; spark plug cables, but I have installed cheapo ones and had them start to fall apart within 2 years (which was WAAAAY faster than I expected). Few things have made me more frustrated than having to pry the terminal boot off a spark plug since it ripped off the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unless the difference and overall costs are high enough to burden you, I'd personally get the mid or high &quot;performance&quot; ones. But that's largely based on the bias of my individual experience with 1 (probably faulty) product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:13:02.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:44:31.757" Score="6" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've picked up an old motorcycle for basically nothing that's been sitting for a while and I'd like to refurbish it and put it in good working condition. It's a fine bike, but has been neglected a little. I was wondering what things I should do before trying to ride it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the things I've thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charge the battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the old petrol and put new petrol in the tank (I've heard this should be done; is this necessary?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove rust from brake rotors (are the brake rotors still safe despite heavy rusting or should I replace them?) and other any other parts that are rusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace engine oil and filter (has been sitting for a while; don't know when last changed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check brake fluid levels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the chain and sprockets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean it thorougly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other things I should do to avoid doing damage after a long time of not being used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3474" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T23:06:23.727" Title="How to refurbish an old motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32821" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:57:51.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your list is good, the reason you need to drain the petrol and replace it with new is that petrol chemically degrades over time. &quot;Stale&quot; petrol does not burn well and may coat the internals of the engine with a varnish that will negatively impact engine performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the brake rotors, I would replace them rather than clean them. Once you've gone through your list, start the bike and let it idle for a few minutes. Look for leaks. Once up to temperature, rev it a few times, see if the idle is stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T23:57:51.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32814" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:07:58.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ESP or Mercedes version of Traction Control.Apparently It is triggered by a bad ground and low battery voltage as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If “ESP – Visit Workshop” is being displayed&#xA;in the instrument cluster, and for vehicles with&#xA;an automatic transmission, the selector lever&#xA;cannot be moved from position “P” after the&#xA;engine is started, and various fault codes are&#xA;stored in the relevant control units, perform&#xA;the following repair.&#xA;Note: In vehicles equipped with tire pressure&#xA;loss warning system this function will also not&#xA;be available.&#xA;The conditions listed above are caused by an&#xA;inadequate ground connection at the ESP (W70)&#xA;ground point   due to the heat&#xA;shrinkable tube protruding under the ground&#xA;cable lug’s attachment point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:07:58.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32814" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:22:52.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so the ESP is the &quot;Electronic Stability Program&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of explanation and backstory &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mercedes-benz.com/en/mercedes-benz/innovation/esp-reaches-20-years-of-saving-lives/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here from Mercedes&lt;/a&gt;. (Which I found quite interesting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple things you can check before resorting to a trip the the shop. I'd do them like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Pressure - Get an accurate gauge and check to make sure all tires are close (probably within +/- 2-3 PSI) to the factory spec on the label (assuming stock wheels and tires are installed). You will get some changes in tire pressure while driving, especially at higher speeds and stress levels (like bumps on the highway). Incorrect tire pressure reads could affect how the computer thinks it needs to work, and getting the tires in the right range &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; get it working properly again. Also if your tires are very worn, you may need to replace them as that could also affect tire pressure and/or traction control readings dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake Fluid - Make sure you have the appropriate amount of fluid as spec'd in your owner's manual. Bringing your fluid to spec &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; resolve the issue since it is a braking dependent system.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake Pad Wear - It may be hard to get a good angle, but try to see how much of the brake pad compound remains. If there are other indications (like the squeezing brake indicator) replacing the pads &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check Battery Voltage - Like Jason C said, the battery could be an issue. And if the battery is the original battery, it may be due for replacement anyway (after 8 years of use). So the a DC volt meter and check that the power between the 2 battery terminals (when the car is off) reads 12-14.5 volts. Anything less could create problems &lt;strong&gt;in theory&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those points are bad, or when corrected don't fix the problem after a day or two, then definitely take it to a shop. Just like Jason C said, there can be &lt;em&gt;MANY&lt;/em&gt; causes and the only way to properly diagnose a car requires some specialty equipment and a lot of training/knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen things about disabling ESP, but if you're used to driving the car with working ESP, disabling could be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;extremely dangerous for you and others&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; since it could cause you to wreck. So I definitely &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DON'T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; recommend doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final point, if you have had any work done on it recently, please update with that information as well. Changes done can also affect the ESP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:22:52.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32790" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:24:27.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is safer to jack each corner of the car one at a time and rest it on a jack stand before doing the same to another corner. Raising close to centre makes the car &quot;tipsy,&quot; and most people realize only too late how heavy a car really is. If you want the entire front, entire rear of the entire car on jack stands, do it one corner at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other answers have provided good information for location, and their safety tips must be listened to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use jack stands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave the jack under a jacking point near where you will be working so if something happens you can lift the car quickly. Do not let the jack support weight, just have it there in the correct spot raised most of the way up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you remove wheels, place them under the rocker panels or pinch weld seams so if the car falls, it won't fall on the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:24:27.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32821" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:34:45.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned, your list is pretty good. 1 1/2 years isn't too bad depending on storage conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove rust from brake rotors (are the brake rotors still safe despite heavy rusting or should I replace them?) and other any other parts that are rusted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd probably replace them, but you can clean them up and see (keeping in mind that you have to clean them in such a way so as to not damage the surfaces). If there is too much pitting I'd replace them; if they are warped or cracked - replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other things I may do would be to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure oil pan is sludge free and clean. Like I said, 1 1/2 years isn't bad, but if there is nasty sludge and gunk your bike be mad if you clean it out. :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If carbureted, I'd probably take the carb of and give it a good visual check. It may need to be cleaned out or even replaced depending on its condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the fuel tank is rust-free! Don't want rust getting into the carb/injection and clogging things up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect/replace air filter. Cause why not?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect/replace spark plugs and cables.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace the brake pads. This is just because you don't know exactly what happened to it while stores. If there were oils spilled on it or various chemicals it could severely damage them or at least reduce their ability to brake quickly. This is one of the most life saving systems on the bike, so I'd personally drop the $50-100 to have the piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check all the cables for slack, performance and integrity. It can be dangerous for your clutch cable to break randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;LOT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of variance exists because of &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; it was stored. Most of the items I mentioned probably don't need any attention, but they're worth checking and or replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last note, if the battery is too low charge it may need to be replaced. A bad battery may charge and start the bike a few times, but whether it holds a charge is another matter all together. So keep that in mind too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATES&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metalrescue.com/assets/pdf/Motorcyle%20Gas%20Tank-Workshop%20Hero%20White%20Paper.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motorcycle Gas Tank De-Rusting Tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T01:01:51.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T01:01:51.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32805" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:39:03.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't any performance to be &lt;strong&gt;gained&lt;/strong&gt; from spark plug wires, just better build quality, which gives you not a better spark, but rather maintains an appropriate spark for more miles/years before their performance degrades to the point of needing replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot tell build quality by reading the side of a box, it is a manufacturer reputation more than anything else. I recently had to replace spark plug cables on one of my vehicles and had to choose between a few unknown brands at half the cost of a reputable brand. I went for the reputable brand because I trust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:39:03.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:43:01.123" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Aftermarket Stereo Doesn't match the colors of my truck. I don't have the Yellow or black wires like as the aftermarket radio has it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19772" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T02:43:39.037" Title="1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Stereo Wires Different" Tags="|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-10-12T14:05:26.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32828" CreationDate="2016-07-14T00:53:28.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wire colours don't have to match, wire functions need to match. Some car munfacturers have the function of wires printed on the wires themselves, or on the top or back of the original stereo. Match the function of the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T00:53:28.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T03:11:39.020" Score="3" ViewCount="1617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this truck with a blown head gasket. I thought it would be fun to fix it. I just got both heads off but the gaskets themselves don't look broken anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abTQv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abTQv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhcrO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhcrO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the gasket is good but the head(s) got warped? There was anti-freeze in the oil and the outside of the engine had oil everywhere. I was just hoping to see something obvious once I finally saw the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:02:17.743" Title="Is it possible to tell if a head gasket is bad just by looking at it?" Tags="|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32846" CreationDate="2016-07-14T06:10:34.437" Score="8" ViewCount="8544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to change the valve cover gasket on a 2002 Ford Focus SE Wagon with the DOHC Zetec engine. I have never done this kind of thing before, and although it seems simple, I am concerned after reading so many warnings about how your engine can be destroyed if debris falls in while you are taking off the cover, scraping off the old gasket, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does this mean that the tiniest little dust-sized fleck of gasket getting in there is gonna cause major damage? Or does it mean more like &quot;&lt;em&gt;Don't let leaves, nachos, and 2-inch chunks of gasket material fall in.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;? How much is too much? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What are tricks that you all use to prevent debris from falling in while you are working? (besides being really careful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If I do drop some gasket material down in there, are there any good tricks for getting it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T18:24:19.683" Title="Preventing debris from falling in engine while changing valve cover gasket" Tags="|engine|repair|valve|gasket|valve-cover|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32831" CreationDate="2016-07-14T07:20:06.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any debris will cause abrasive damage: the bigger the debris, the bigger and quicker the damage will be. Other than being careful, you can always cover up the engine if you are working in a dirty, dusty or drafty area. Changing the motor oil after your post-repair test drive is one way to mitigate the dust-sized debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T07:20:06.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33189" CreationDate="2016-07-14T07:42:45.907" Score="7" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to remove the alternator from a 1.3 4E-FE engine in a 1998 Toyota Corolla, but have ran out of ideas to do it. This is the photo of the alternator in situ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOshD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOshD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the right of the alternator is the pivot bolt which is what is holding the alternator to the bracket which is connected to the engine. I've removed the nut so the bolt should be able to be removed, but I'm not able to do this. I've taken several spanners and ratchets to the bolt head but I either have no room to get a good fit on the bolt or when I do get it to fit I have no room to turn the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then tried to unbolt the bracket from the engine, but I have the same problem. No real space for me to get a ratchet in or enough room to move it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a friend suggest I take a crowbar to it with the hope of breaking the bolt, but I'm afraid of breaking the bracket holding it to the engine block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got any ideas on how I can get this alternator out? The adjustment bolt broke off at the top of the alternator so I need to remove it to get this bolt out, as well as change the bearings inside the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17232" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T09:42:57.687" Title="How To Remove The Alternator From A 1998 Toyota Corolla 1.3 4E-FE Engine?" Tags="|toyota|alternator|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26864" CreationDate="2016-07-14T08:56:34.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;-10 °C for a petrol engine should be a piece of cake, I used to drive my 1986 Audi at temperatures below -25 °C. The only time it wouldn't start is when the battery was on it's way out, so obviously the battery should be in a good condition. At -10 °C it should crank as well as in the warm days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the viscosity of the engine oil you are using correct? You should be using between 0W and 10W cold viscosity oil if you live in a colder climate area, you want low viscosity while the engine is cold to ease starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure that the engine is in a good condition and no components are faulty. The ECT sensor, for example. If it reports false temperature then you will have a hard time starting as the calculated mixture might be too lean. Same with vacuum leaks. What passes in the summer might not be sufficient in cold temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T11:07:39.070" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T11:07:39.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T09:01:14.243" Score="1" ViewCount="9425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to set the distributor on my uno , the mark i made prior to removing it does not line up anymore and I am not able to turn the camshaft for some reason, I tried turning the motor by hand at the crankshaft , but the the cam and it's belt is not turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19779" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T16:10:49.840" Title="Fiat uno mia 1.1" Tags="|engine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32837" CreationDate="2016-07-14T09:46:29.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before trying to set the timing on your distributor, you have to make sure that the crank and cam are correctly timed to each other.  This is usually done by setting piston number 1 to Top Dead Centre (TDC) which is the point where the crown of the piston is at the top of the bore.  You then set the camshaft to the point at which the inlet and exhaust vales on cylinder one are both closed.  It isn't quite as simple as this though as the valves will typically open and close at prescribed points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be marking somewhere on your crank pulley and cam wheel that you can use to time these up.  Once this is done you can tension the timing belt and turn the engine by hand a couple of times to make sure it comes back to TDC with no contact internally and that the timing marks still line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only once this is complete should you attempt to line up your distributor ignition timing.  If you are turning the crank and the cam isn't turning.  Something is fundamentally wrong with your timing gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age and type of engine fitted, you may find the following link contains some helpful information for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/19733-photos-timing-marks-8v-f-i-r-e-engines.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiat Forum FIRE engine timing marks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T09:46:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2016-07-14T10:31:32.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You often can't tell just by looking. It's probably worth taking the heads to a machine shop and getting them to check and/or skim them - chances are even if they were good, the gasket blow could have casued them to warp anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviouly you'll need to change the gaskets now you've had the head off, they won't seal again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T10:31:32.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32848" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:31:03.513" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/28155/valve-like-noise-after-modifying-camshaft-ninja-300&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We opened the engine today to do some maintenance and we found the end of the camshaft was damaged, we already have a new one in order but we would like to hear your opinions on why this would happen.&#xA;Remember this is a modified camshaft so one possibility is that it was weakened during the process&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrFAG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrFAG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Camshaft 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyNgX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyNgX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Camshaft 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14852" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2017-08-02T02:58:27.327" Title="Ninja 300 camshaft failure, possible causes?" Tags="|camshaft|ninja|ohc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32796" CreationDate="2016-07-14T13:53:38.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a regular 12V battery vehicle, then the ECU is likely to work from 7V until 14V with no problem. That's the usual requirement for this kind of component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15789" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T13:53:38.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32803" CreationDate="2016-07-14T14:42:33.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So searching the Internet, I've found some conflicting opinions, with an occasional person saying either that cold leak down tests &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/902149-leakdown-test-on-a-cold-engine-seller-says-this-is-useless/page__view__findpost__p__21046301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;are completely invalid&lt;/a&gt;, or that cold numbers will be two to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/155765-leakdown-results-difference-between-hot-cold-test.html#post990629&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;three times warm numbers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people relate the numbers to how big your ring gap is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just did a cold test on my fresh off the dyno engine, over the past 20 yrs I've gotten use to zero gap second rings that read 0-4% cold most of the time and 0% when warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly though, I saw a number of individuals claiming that there &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/902149-leakdown-test-on-a-cold-engine-seller-says-this-is-useless/page__view__findpost__p__21054861&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is little&lt;/a&gt; difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;doing the test on a hot motor will only yield slightly better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cold leakdown tests on a good motor will still be under 5%. The rings bridge the gap between the piston and bores and it wont matter if the engine is cold. The only time I've seen a dramatic difference on cold motors are when the valve clearances are approaching zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also ran across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/leak_down_testing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;professional sites&lt;/a&gt; which &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; credible saying the same thing as above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first step is to warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.  This is done so that the rings have expanded and hence will seal better, and should give more meaningful results.  This is not absolutely necessary, however, and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the test can certainly be done with the engine cold.  The test results will not vary (in my experience anyway!) all that much&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even ran across one site, Duncan Racing International, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/4-StkLeakDownTest12.2009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;which claims&lt;/a&gt; leak down tests should &lt;strong&gt;only be done cold&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All leak down tests must be performed on a cold engine.  *NOTE: Performing this test on a hot engine can cause internal damage to the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my conclusion from all this, even though I've never done a leak down test, is that the results should be very close to those of a warm test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T14:42:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32835" CreationDate="2016-07-14T15:08:07.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what tools you have available and whether you are replacing the alternator.  I would probably resort to using my air hacksaw to cut through the bolt just inside each end of the bracket.  This will release the alternator.  The alternator should be reusable, maybe just needing a washer or two to make up the space cut by the hacksaw.  Of course you would need a new bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T15:08:07.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26864" CreationDate="2016-07-14T15:15:03.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with many things just like our human bodies, extremes kill things. Too hot, your battery will lose water and lose charging capability leading to sulfating (rendering the battery useless, in many cases, permanently). Too cold, and your battery loses capacity, i.e. Cranking Amperes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is kept outside in temperatures below freezing, you should consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine Block Heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery Blanket/Heater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery Maintainer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charging System Maintenance!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Engine Block Heater:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is it important?&lt;/strong&gt; The coolant in your motor is susceptible to freezing. Even if you use high concentrations of Anti-freeze, it will eventually freeze. A 50/50 ratio is good down to -34°F (-36.7°C) Your oil also thickens at below freezing temperatures an this certainly does not make it easier on the electrical system to turn the motor over. Cold, thick oil means high internal resistance which in turn results in increased demand on the electrical system increase the amp load that the battery must supply to turn the motor over. With an already weakened battery due to the cold, this is among the #1 reason why batteries (and starters) die in cold weather. A block heater helps alleviate this issue by keeping the motor at a warm temperature. This works wonders on several levels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreased Engine Wear (Cold starts are where the majority of engine wear occurs - Even when temperatures are above freezing - Tolerances in the motor are tighter, which results in increased wear.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced demand on the vehicle's electrical system (A warm motor turns easier. Rest your poor starter and give it a hand.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your heater will work much more quickly and result in less strain on the vehicle while it is warming up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battery Blanket:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this important?&lt;/strong&gt; In most cases, you probably have what is called a &quot;Flooded Cell Lead Acid Battery&quot;. There is an electrolytic medium of Sulfuric Acid and water which fills the battery cells in between suspended lead and lead-oxide plate electrodes. For simplicity's sake we will not break down the functions of the battery to it's operating principal (you can learn more by checking this video out: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhIRD5YVNbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhIRD5YVNbs&lt;/a&gt;) but, cold weather increases the internal resistance and reduces it's capacity. A battery blanket/heater works just like an engine block heater except for your battery. There is a reason why automotive batteries are also measured in CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battery Maintainer:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this important?&lt;/strong&gt; Remember the discussion regarding increased internal resistance and lowered capacity? Parasitic draw on the battery will kill it in short order come winter. A battery maintainer coupled with a blanket/heater can be the difference in being able to start on a cold day or not. These typically work to reverse sulfation, and keep the battery in overall good health. The best part is, every morning you get a FULL charge. If your vehicle is run on short low speed trips, you may not be charging the battery fully. The battery (typically) only really charges at highway engine speeds because the alternator needs to turn fast enough to generate the current needed to supply the electrical components in the vehicle as well as recharge your battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Charging System Maintenance:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this important?&lt;/strong&gt; Your battery/cranking/charging system is only as good as its weakest link. Consider that you have not maintained the Water level in your cells (unless of course your battery is Maintenance Free, or AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate), Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) or other maintenance free chemistry batteries) This means higher rate of sulfation, as a result, higher internal resistance, and therefor your alternator cannot recharge the battery fully, or may not be able to charge the battery at all. In fact, a bad battery accounts for a large portion of failed alternators. They overheat the diode circuity attempting to maintain the voltage required to charge the battery, overheat the battery as a side effect, and can even cause fires or explosions from the production of hydrogen gas in severe instances. Maintaining your charging system is the difference between needing a jump in the morning or being able to get a reliable start every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your battery terminals and terminal posts clean. Any corrosion should be cleaned off and neutralized with a baking soda and water solution and a steel wire brush. (DON'T LET THIS GET INTO YOUR BATTERY THOUGH, IT WILL KILL IT IN SHORT ORDER!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace any old, frayed, torn, or corroded wire. Bad grounds, bad positives, all result in higher internal resistance, ineffective charging, or ineffective transmission of voltage to your starter. Keep them in good condition and you'll notice a difference right away. Old wires tend to get brittle and increase in resistance over-time (mainly due to oxidation). It's always a good idea to change old cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your battery hydrated (if required - not all cars use flooded cell batteries as &quot;Maintenance Free&quot; AGM Batteries have become popular OEM equipment on most vehicles these days) A poorly hydrated battery will not charge, will discharge, and will leave you stranded. Simply pop the covers of your battery cells (Wear Goggles and Acid Proof Gloves (with sleeves!) and check if they are just below the fill tubes. If it's lower at full charge, you need to rehydrate the battery. Using a battery filler bulb GENTLY add &lt;strong&gt;Distilled&lt;/strong&gt; (ONLY - Any other type will introduce contaminants which will shorten the life of the battery significantly) water. How can you make sure your battery is fully charged and healthy? Your local autoparts store can help with testing the capacity and health of the battery with a load tester tool. Don't trust them? Get a battery &quot;hydrometer&quot;, a multimeter and compare the &quot;Specific Gravity&quot; of each cell to the voltage of the battery. The battery voltage at rest should be around 12.63V DC at 100% charge. The specific gravity should be near 1.265. Any deviation indicates a loss of capacity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at worse case, especially if you're uncomfortable with checking your battery's gravity (don't feel bad, it's not for everyone!), take it to your trusted Mechanic for a pre-winter checkup. They can spot these issues and resolve them before you end up having to continuously buy new batteries and starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cold Weather Starting Tips:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn your key to the &quot;ON&quot; position and wait a few seconds. In the case of a fuel injected gasoline car, this primes the fuel pump and pressurizes the fuel rail. You may sometimes hear a whine or whirr from the vehicle for a few seconds. This is normal, and wait until it stops, then crank the vehicle. This ensures that you get a good flow of fuel to the motor, reduces cranking time, and reduces battery demand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off your lights/heater/radio/electrical drawing appliances! The last thing your battery needs is additional load when it's already operating at a reduced capacity! It needs all the help it can get so give it a break and save it the weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Carbureted Vehicles Only) Use the choke, and pump a few pumps of fuel into the engine prior to starting. Every car is different and will need different finesse to start. A freshly rebuilt and tuned carburetor will ALWAYS start easiest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Diesels Only) Many Diesels have &quot;Glow Plugs&quot; or &quot;Grid heaters&quot; and sometimes BOTH! These work to make cold starting easier. Diesels NEED heat to run, so it's extremely hard to start them in cold weather. It's imperative you let these heaters reach full temperature before you try starting! Otherwise you're wasting battery, and hurting your starter! Turn the key to on, you may see a &quot;Wait&quot; light or hear a buzzer (not to be confused with the &quot;Low Air&quot; buzzer on commercial vehicles). Wait for it to turn off before starting your vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT crank your vehicle endlessly. You are just wasting battery. If the vehicle does not crank within a few seconds of starting, STOP. Turn the key off, let the battery and starter recover, and try again. This can especially happen if your engine is worn, or in poor condition. Keep your ignition system in top shape for quick starts!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;REFRAIN FROM USING STARTER FLUID IN EFI VEHICLES! Not only can this contribute to oil dilution (extremely rich fuel mixture), it can damage the sensors required to run your engine properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO keep your battery fully charged and charging system in good condition. Even a little corrosion can result in a no start situation!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastEditorUserId="16773" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T16:48:57.300" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:48:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2016-07-14T16:02:17.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a golden rule: once you uncap your engine always replace the head gasket with a new one. Never reuse them. One tip in case you need to uncap again in the next few days/weeks is to apply a thin, very thin layer of thick grease all over it but avoid water holes, both sides, that way it won't stick in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One unexpensive way to check if the head or block if flat enough is by using the old way: get a fluorescent light tube, place it longitudinally over the part and use a valves adjustment gauge between it and the part, the gauge, as thin as it could be, should never be able to get in. Take patience and check all points as possible, but most important are around the holes. Start from the middle of the part then check one half then the other, as you roll the tube for a next check point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, checking your photos: that head gasket is kaput. Replace it, see how the heat rings for the piston holes are deformed, even the gap between pistons holes are deformed. Gasket is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:02:17.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32831" CreationDate="2016-07-14T16:12:57.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, debris will cause damage, however the valves cover gasket doesn't stick that hard and if it is the original, they come with some kind of rubber material, very easy to take out even in one piece almost always. Some gaskets are made of cork material, those would break but still won't generate much debris neither. The tip is: take time, warm up the engine just a little bit, not to operating temperature, just a bit warm, a temperature you can be comfortable with, then uncap the cover. If you need to scrap something, do from inside to outside, or running the scrapper longitudinally but ending with a wrist twist to outside. You can place a clean rack solid where you think debris would fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all is out, use a scrubbing pad to clean the surfaces, again, carefully. When adding the new gasket, put a thin, &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; thin layer of high-temp silicone to both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something falls inside, you will need to either pick it somehow if it is big, or blow it out with a compressor, but put some rags in the other side, since it will also spit out a lot of oil :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:12:57.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4742" CreationDate="2016-07-14T16:20:29.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;...in other words: no damage, only that the parts would get a lot hot and some little degree of worn out for the brake shoes/pads. One thing very important tho: if that happens again NEVER pour water to the brakes, even if they smoke. Never do that, those metals will get very hot, if you water them, they will bend and in the typical scenario, they may crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:20:29.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32840" CreationDate="2016-07-14T16:33:53.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is stress, vibration. Shouldn't happen like this, but if it is reground cam shaft, it might be dropped. Normally if you drop a cam shaft, crank, piston, valve, etc, especially on bike engines, where you have minimum of a material and maximum of a performance, you just have to replace it. It is cheaper than a new engine. My co-worker once dropped a cam shaft and it just broke in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:33:53.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T17:31:26.913" Score="3" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing a P0245/16629 – Solenoid Valve (A) for Boost Pressure Control (N75): Short to Ground – code on our 2002 ALH TDI. The solenoid valve controls the boost by moving the vacuum actuator that controls the turbo vanes. I think it does this by PWM (pulse width modulation) of the solenoid on the ground side. As I understand it, a (hard) short to ground would result in loss of control over the solenoid which should produce a full or even over boost condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm actually seeing little or minimal boost. Vacuum is delivered to the actuator and I can see the actuator move. But boost pressure does not increase much (way less than the ECM is asking for) &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the engine doesn't feel like it is getting any significant amount of boost (so while I haven't tested the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor, I'm inclined to believe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this leaves me wondering what the P0245/16629 code actually tells me. Does it indicate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That the ECM has measured the output pin for the solenoid and actually detected a short, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ECM is unable to control the turbo output and infers a short as the likely cause.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know? Both static tests on the solenoid wiring and its behavior strongly lead me to suspect that it is the later – I don't see a short to ground with a meter and the solenoid and actuator seem to be doing what the ECM is asking of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T17:31:26.913" Title="Meaning of P0245 (16629) DTC on VW ALH TDI Engine" Tags="|vw|diesel|turbocharger|tdi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32831" CreationDate="2016-07-14T18:24:19.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fill the area with foamy shaving cream.  Do all your gasket work, etc, and then vacuum out the area with a shop vac.  wipe off any areas the shop vac can't get to.  Rinse away any residue with fresh motor oil.  The tiny bit of shaving cream residue going into the oil return passages will not be a big deal.  I would change the oil and filter soon after such a procedure anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done the same thing working on carbs (tiny butterfly screws, for instance) and most effectively when helicoil or other thread insert work on spark plug holes.  Crank to BDC, fill cylinder with foamy shaving cream, drill/tap/insert, and then modify a shop vac nozzle to fit into the spark plug well while a helper &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; manually turns crank back to TDC.  The residue is benign and won't harm anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer &lt;em&gt;Barbasol&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Brut&lt;/em&gt; ...  truth is, the foamy kind is getting harder to find.   &lt;em&gt;Do not use &quot;gel&quot; type!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T18:24:19.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32805" CreationDate="2016-07-14T18:28:29.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @tlhIngan said, the benefit of good wires isn't so much the quality of the spark when they are new, but the longevity of the wires. Spark plug wires don't lead an easy life, they are exposed to high temperatures and high voltages and a lot of strain and bending during plug changes and other work around the wires. As they start to fail they will become intermittent and some of the spark energy will be dissipated by &quot;leaks&quot; through the insulation to any grounds that can be found. That's likely to lead to reduced fuel economy even before you notice it as missing. So the cost of good wires may repay itself in ways beyond just longevity of the wires themselves – you may get some of it back in savings on fuel costs, and also in troubleshooting time as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any wires, it helps to keep them clean and to avoid sharp bends and chafing. Wires with a carbon (suspension?) core can fracture if they are bent sharply leading to intermittent misses, and insulation that is dirty or damaged is more conducive to &quot;leaking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T18:28:29.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T19:07:31.967" Score="0" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where does hose out bottom of carburetor on a Yamaha yw50ap go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19785" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T22:12:51.463" Title="Where does hose out bottom of carburetor on Yamaha yw50ap go?" Tags="|carburetor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-10T23:54:31.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T19:09:00.500" Score="9" ViewCount="5248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to suspect that the smoke and low power (I'm pretty sure it is not &quot;limp mode&quot; just a lack of enthusiasm) I'm seeing in our 2002 Jetta TDI (ALH engine with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garret VNT-15 turbocharger&lt;/a&gt;) may be a turbo issue. Here's what I'm seeing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum system seems good – vacuum pump (no manifold vacuum on a diesel) is strong and I don't see any leaks on the lines when I test with a MityVac.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turbocharger output (the &quot;actual boost&quot; value shown using &lt;a href=&quot;http://ross-tech.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VCDS&lt;/a&gt;) is well below the boost requested by the ECM – for example while climbing at about 3,000' at full throttle the ECM was asking for about 1.5 to 1.8 bar (from memory) and the turbo was only able to produce about 1.0 bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At idle at about 6,500' the ECM asks for about 1.0 bar and the turbo MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and actual boost values are at atmospheric pressure (0.805 bar).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a vacuum actuated variable vane turbo and the control system seems to be working (the ECM is able to modulate the amount of vacuum, and the actuator moves in response to the ECM's commands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this leads me to think that the turbo &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be working – in other words the problem I'm seeking is not in the control system (despite getting a diagnostic code, P0245/16629 that suggests a control system problem). So, I'm wondering what can go wrong and how can I troubleshoot. Here's what I'm thinking so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An intake obstruction. I've had the whole system apart and replaced the air filter. I don't think there is an obstruction unless it is in the intercooler. I would think that an input restriction would manifest itself as a drop off of boost at higher loads, rather than`an overall lack – seems that I'd be able to get enough boost at idle for example.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An exhaust obstruction. Haven't looked at this at all (other than noting that there is some exhaust coming out…). Is there a way to do a meaningful check without taking the whole system apart? Again, I'd expect this to get worse as exhaust volume built, so that I'd be able to get some boost at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something (carbon build up on the turbine side, or coked up bearings?) causing enough drag to stop the turbo from spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards number three, and thinking that I could check this by pulling the intake hose and trying to spin the compressor – I assume it should spin easily and keeping going. Is there any possibility of the shaft failing, so that the turbine is no longer connected to the compressor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T20:28:36.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T10:01:11.030" Title="Troubleshooting Low Turbo Boost" Tags="|vw|troubleshooting|turbocharger|tdi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T19:12:13.080" Score="6" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much current in amperes is flowing while a car is completely turned&#xA;off? How long can it sit before battery is drained enough to be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19786" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T21:17:05.490" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:41:56.163" Title="Is my battery draining while car is off?" Tags="|electrical|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32854" CreationDate="2016-07-14T19:53:51.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the car and battery. Look at the information label on the battery. The amount of acceptable draw is Reserve Capacity divided by 4 = x mA. So if a battery has a 100 minute reserve capacity, 100/4 = 0.025A or 25mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically (again depending on car and battery) you shouldn't see &gt; 50mA. Anything more may indicate a parasitic drain or a computer hasn't gone to sleep yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reserve Capacity is the amount of minutes a battery can discharge 25A at 80°F before dropping below 10.5V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T20:06:47.400" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T20:06:47.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:17:35.863" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just recently began not starting every once in a while.  Not a click, nothing.  If I turn the key backwards the radio comes on and I can turn the lights on.  Then after a few tries it starts up and the radio/clock needs to be reset like the battery went dead.  The battery is maybe 2 years old.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:Now it won't start at all. still no noise.  When I turn the key backwards the radio comes on.  But if I turn the lights on (they don't come on) the radio shuts off.  When I turn the light switch off the radio comes back on.   If I hit the break the radio shuts off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the battery and it looks like one of the connections is covered with white corrosion.  I hope it's just the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19788" LastEditorUserId="19788" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T22:54:06.743" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:54:06.743" Title="97 Ford Ranger occasionally won't start" Tags="|electrical|ford|starting|troubleshooting|ranger|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32854" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:24:39.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most (all) modern cars there will be a small drain while the car is off. Some of the causes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alarm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keyless entry system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps the radio (anti-theft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drain should be small, the maker designed the electrical system to accommodate a small draw and the car should be able to handle it for at least a week, maybe even longer. The owner's manual may give you guidance. But if you find that the car won't reliably start after a few days or even a week, odd are good that your battery is reaching the end of its life or that you've got an &quot;unplanned&quot; draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think something is drawing more than it should the first thing to do is to look for lights that shouldn't be on – say a trunk light or maybe a vanity light on the visor mirror. Or what happened to me, an inverter without a power switch. After that you can check by watching an Amp meter (pull one of the battery terminals and connect it between the terminal and the battery post) as you pull fuses. That will tell you where the load is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T20:24:39.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32875" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:39:50.517" Score="6" ViewCount="1198" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an example, my 2004 Honda CRV has air conditioning that is controlled by three controls: on/off button, blower speed knob, temperature knob. The blower speed knob affects the speed of the blower, the temperature just affects a gate to the heater core (not 100% positive my CRV works that way, but my other cars did), and the on/off button turns on/off AC, assuming the blower speed is at least above 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the AC compressor or expansion valve actually change based on any of those? I imagine the combination of on/off and blower speed engage a clutch in the compressor that can only engage/disengage. So, is there any significant downside to turning the blower on max?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, maybe I'm wrong and there are gears or something in the compressor or maybe the expansion valve is electronically controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19790" LastEditorUserId="19790" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T22:16:12.233" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:07:00.893" Title="Does AC usage change based on blower speed?" Tags="|ac|climate-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2016-07-14T20:45:57.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some thoughts on how to verify if you have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;an intake obstruction&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the air filter (keep the MAF in place) to expose the compressor inlet and log boost values with the car at idle and under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boost numbers are close to what the engine computer is expecting then this would confirm that something upstream the MAF is obstructing the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;an exhaust obstruction&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most convenient spot to probe for exhaust back pressure would be the upstream O2 sensor location. Unscrew the O2 sensor and put in a pressure gauge to probe how much back pressure there is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;carbon build-up on the turbine vanes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning the turbo shaft by hand won't tell you much besides confirming that the bearings are OK at very, very low RPM. I can't think of anything short of a turbo teardown to confirm if carbon build-up is an issue (unless you can get a borescope in there).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possibilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;not enough vacuum from the engine&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Based on the comments, this is pretty much ruled out)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;incorrect VGT actuation&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Based on comments, you're pretty sure this is not an issue)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T10:01:11.030" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T10:01:11.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:16:49.623" Score="4" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello i have a problem i own a Toyota Celica ST185 Carlos Sainz Limited Edition. (btw. English is not my national language so sorry for eventual errors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that car has problems with start. It starts whenewer it wants. Here's a presentation video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lakHh5TiHa4&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lakHh5TiHa4&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As u can see there is a Check Engine light. And car starts, i give a little gas and it stalled(stopped working). When i tried to launch it again there is no Check Engine light. And Car won't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No Check Engine light ? Then happens this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rF-MahNAhIM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/rF-MahNAhIM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i will wait a bit(5minutes/1hour). Check Engine light appears and car starts normally. Then after random amount of time car stalls, and everything repeats. Or i can just launch it, then turn the car off try to launch it again and it won't launch(it just happens randomly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Check Engine light is ON it launches without any problems. Car was in the mechanic but he said that he doesn't know how to repair this, he replaced the fuses/EFI Relay. I don't know if i need to search for a better mechanic or u guys can help me solve this problem. Any suggestions what should i do ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19791" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T21:35:01.570" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:35:01.570" Title="Toyota Celica ST185 problem, doesn't start" Tags="|electrical|toyota|fuse|relay|celica|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-01-07T11:51:36.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32865" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:17:46.500" Score="5" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2007 Mazda6. 2.3L I4. 81k miles, and it is in great condition. The car runs fine, no symptoms of anything amiss, accelerates and idles perfectly, gas mileage is exactly as expected (about 28 MPG). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is new to me, I have been doing some general maintenance, one of which was to replace the spark plugs. At that point, I noticed a considerable amount of oil in the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. No misfires or anything, but I took it to the local mechanic to replace the valve cover gasket as well as the spark plug tube seals. Well, 24 hours after the car got out of the shop I took a look inside the wells, and sure enough, there's about a half inch of oil that's accumulated around the plugs. The mechanic said there didn't look to be oil in the piston, where the plug ignites, and like I said the engine runs fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what else could possible be causing this leak? I'm returning the car to the mechanic on Tuesday to be inspected, but in the meantime I was hoping to get an idea of what to ask and think about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19792" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T21:33:08.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:57:42.663" Title="Oil In Spark Wells (NOT Valve Gasket or Seals)" Tags="|mazda|oil-leak|mazda-6|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:43:35.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can rev it up and see if the vane boosts it to 100% at any moment. If not, it's a ECU not allowing to reach the pressure. So the issue is somewhere before your turbo, like detonation, pre-ignition...&#xA; If it doesn't open a boost fully, you should see your Lambda sensor readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have knock sensors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the smoke white or black?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the smoke is black, it will be a mechanical issue of loosing a boost, and not decreased by ECU/ECM. So if you have black smoke, it can be an air/vacuum leak, VGT valve, exhaust pipe, etc. If the turbo's shaft bearing is worn, you should hear it.. It might feel a bit loose when you touch it cold by hand, but it'll be fine on the running engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lovely description! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:43:35.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32862" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:57:42.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaking valve cover gasket or (likely) spark plug seals. Get your mechanic to check his work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any oil left on the mating surfaces, some mechanics think that either it helps the seal, or that it will get squeezed out when the cover is torqued down. Not the case - any oil left will create a path for a leak. Reusing spark plug seals is not recommended at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T21:57:42.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:07:45.547" Score="3" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question about standard car with ECU controlled injection: Does the ECU still inject some fuel if my engine has higher revs than idle speed and throttle is closed (foot off)? As much as I know (I've been working only with racing ECU's for racing cars), ECU shuts the injectors completely, and Air/Fuel ratio will show 30-35 on closed throttle (4.2%) at 10000 RPM going down to idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Situation: Approaching a roundabout or junction, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reason of asking: Fuel consumption and global environment-friendly driving behaviour :D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it save a fuel if we leave in gear when slowing down, or stick in neutral and let it roll? Years and years ago some drivers used to save fuel by accelerating to a cosmic speed and then switch neutral, and drive on idle :D But it was a carburetor. Agree with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T18:18:36.573" Title="Air/Fuel ratio at 3%-5% of throttle position (closed throttle)" Tags="|fuel-consumption|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32852" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:12:51.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it looks down on the floor. Overflow pipe. Some have cut in angle, looks like syringe needle, some have a little bracket to screw it somewhere to engine aiming down. Basically the idea is not to spill over the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T22:12:51.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32837" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:39:36.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have removed a timing belt/chain and lost a cam timing, Try this: Get your crank shaft about 90° after or before TDC, so your pistons are about the same level. Then try to turn the cam shaft over. Because if you do it at TDC, your valves will hit the piston, which will stop your cam shaft turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't taken belt/chain off, it must be trapped cam shaft when fitted a distributor. Take the distributor off, and try to turn over. If it turns over, fit the distributor back on, make sure the distributors shaft perfectly fits in camshaft end, don't worry about ignition timing. When you're done, try to turn over again. If it turns, adjust the ignition timing (to your marks), and tighten the bolts. And try to turn over again. If it don't turn, tell us at what point it stops turning over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T22:39:36.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32859" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:43:13.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, the occupants cannot control the actual pressures (and thus temperatures) produced my the AC system, nor can the occupants change the state of the expansion valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that auto AC systems (which I have little experience with) work similarly to commercial building HVAC (which I have a bit of experience with). The main similarity being that it is a Boolean systems. On or off, nothing else. I know that the compressor can change because of RPM of the motor, but it will engage/disengage if the pressure created is out of range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, normal expansion valves are only affected by the ratio of internal temp/pressure to external temp/pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the only downside to running your blower at max would be that you may get cold. Technically you do lose some of the motors power to the AC compressor when AC is on, but that is a constant loss, and is quite negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I forgot is the temperature knob or climate control. If this is like residential and commercial systems, it simply sets a target temperature to maintain. So the actual compressor and heater coil gate will be activated or deactivated as is needed to get that temperature. This is usually monitored by an indoor sensor as far as I know. Anyone with more specific knowledge in this aspect is welcome to amend this statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point being, with regard to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dies AC usage change...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. But in an on/off fashion. Not in terms of strength or degree of cooling. That part is constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T01:56:25.667" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T01:56:25.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16866" CreationDate="2016-07-14T23:24:23.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, that's not true: the valves cover have an exhaust outlet to vent any combustion gases leaked from the valves operation, which is normal. That always happens, no matter how new or good an engine is, it is part of its design. So these gases are routed to the intake manifold to eliminate them. &lt;strong&gt;This means the valves cover is not part of a pressurized system, and therefore doesn't have an influence over cylinders pressure.&lt;/strong&gt; In fact, all the contrary. If its exhaust vent gets clogged or blocked then that whole zone will get some pressure because minimal but continuous gas leak will build up. Eventually the valves cover gasket will start to leak out, or if the valves system has rubber bushes, they will get damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now: oil burning &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; valves cover is always because the gasket is gone, or the rubber seal in the refill cap is damaged. When the engine is running, there is a lot of oil spraying in there, remember the valves, the camshaft and the rest of the things inside needs lubrication. In some engines that's so evident that if you remove the refill cap you can actually see oil spitted out. Oil will leak from gaskets to outside the engine where it is hot, then it will reach more hot zones, like the exhaust manifold and there it will burn even with smoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil consumption and burning (related with valves cover) have nothing to do with engine pressure. Only the head gasket could make that, but then, comes together with many other symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T23:24:23.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32873" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T23:33:47.860" Score="7" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 99'chevy camaro z28. It has been accelerating very slowly and eventually dying on me. I've changed the battery, spark plugs and the fuel filter. It manages to turn on and stay on fine. It has 310 Hp, but when I floor it, it feels as if it only had 100 Hp. This started happening after loose rocks on the road hit the under side of my car. I checked for damage but see nothing? What could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19795" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T23:38:03.780" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T02:57:32.817" Title="Slow acceleration when pressing hard on the gas" Tags="|chevrolet|acceleration|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32866" CreationDate="2016-07-14T23:57:54.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How EFI Manages Injection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article on fuel injection&lt;/a&gt;, it seems to answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer being - yes the ECU does still add fuel, it just does it differently. Personally I don't understand all of how ECU code works (cause I haven't studied it, I am a computer programmer tho), but I imagine they are separate, non-correlated items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU adjusts idle speed by enriching the fuel/air. This pushes faster, but less efficient. It does this because the motor is cold and is trying to increase the heat of the whole thing faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, when the throttle is pressed, the injectors are still being opened, but now they're being opened to match the airflow. The airflow is increased when the throttle is rolled. As far as I know, injection is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; being handled by the ECU regardless of state (fast-idle, idle, throttle opened/opening, throttle closed/closing). This is the whole point of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xG1w3l41lmQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this cute and basic YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, the injection has no strictly mechanical action other than throttle body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Jk3ln-AxgVc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video was really interesting, but I bet it's a bit dated.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Driving Theory *&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it more economic to reach high speeds, then idle or roll in neutral? Technically, no. Even in a perfect, frictionless vacuum, it always takes the same amount of energy to produce the same amount of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real world scenarios, every engine has different points of efficiency. Likewise, every drivetrain will have different points as will every body. Remember, the drivetrain is where all the surface friction comes from, the body so where all the air friction comes from, the the power plant is always fighting that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your motor may produce the best HP/gallon of fuel at (total random example here) say 5000 RPM, but at 5000 RPM in top gear you'll probably be going over 100 MPH. A lot of vehicles have their aerodynamic efficiency point around 80 MPH (though may around 60-70 MPH as well). So once you exceed that, the body starts fighting you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, say your engine sits at 5000 RPM at 4/5ths Throttle Pisition (TP). Your drivetrain is going to change things as you drive too. For example, holding 4/5 TP keeps you at 5000 RPM and 100 MPH on a flat surface. Well now what if you hit an incline? The car starts to slow and RPMs start dipping! Why? Cause the drivetrain (via the transmission) is exerting more force into the engine. On a 100% slope you'd have 50% of the weight of the vehicle added, plus tire friction, plus air resistance, plus, plus, plus... So the vehicle slows. More energy (combustion force) is needed to produce the same speed because more more resistance is involved. Does  revving higher produce better MPG? Generally no. This is why cruise control is really ideal for relatively flat travel. Conversely on the other hand, you don't need as much throttle going down hill to keep the same speed! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could keep rambling on, but the basic point is that there are too many variables to say it is or is not more fuel efficient to drive fast and then idle, but I will say that it's sketchy to put your car (especially w/ automatic transmissions) into neutral at highway speeds. Can an experienced driver do it? Sure. But it's not the safest practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say however that I found the most fuel efficient I could get with a 2010 Chrysler Town &amp;amp; Country was 85 MPH on flats, faster on ~60% grade downhills, and around 60/65 MPH on a ~60% grade uphill. That got me ~30 MPG if I remember correctly. That was on a road trip from Los Angeles to Kansas City (~1,500 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*: All of the numbers used herein are just random numbers for simplicity. They are not based on any real world datasets unless otherwise specified. Also I'm using &quot;drivetrain&quot; to mean everything other than the power plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T23:57:54.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32859" CreationDate="2016-07-15T01:51:31.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;AC load &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; varies with blower speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most modern vehicles (like your CRV, without an orifice tube) the amount of liquid refrigerant metered into the evaporator is controled by a Thermal Expansion Valve, or &quot;TXV&quot;.  The TXV takes it's cue from the &lt;em&gt;temperature&lt;/em&gt; of the evaporator core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ac-heatingconnect.com/how-thermostatic-expansion-valves-txv-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a great desciption of (stationary) TXV operation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Critical here is the pressure balance operation of the TXV:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TXV Pressure Balance EquationTXV&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1+P4 = P2+P3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P1 = Bulb Pressure (Opening Force)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P2 = Evaporator Pressure (Closing Force)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P3 = Superheat Spring Pressure (Closing Force)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P4 = Liquid Pressure (Opening Force)&lt;/strong&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNYQm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNYQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the &quot;bulb&quot; (P1) is a sealed system, with a refrigerant inside, but unrelated to the refrigerant in the rest of the system.  The bulb is physically buried in the evaporator core, and reads the &lt;em&gt;temperature&lt;/em&gt; of the core by thermal conductivity.  The pressure inside the bulb rises as the core temperature increases.  This pressure cooperates with the head pressure to open the TXV and allow more refrigerant into the evaoprator core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the temperature of the evaporator core rises proportionately as the temperature and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;flow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of &quot;hot&quot; air across it.  It's not completely linear, as the efficiency of any heat exchanger is usually flat only across a narrow range of secondary flow.  Fast moving air just doesn't maintain enough &quot;contact time&quot; for heat exchange.  &lt;strong&gt;Nevertheless, the overall amount of work done by the system is ultimately dictated by the temperature and flow across two heat exchangers, the evaporator and the condensor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful purpose of the TXV is to prevent evaporator &lt;em&gt;icing&lt;/em&gt;, which has a runaway effect if left unchecked.  Ice crystals block the airflow, less heat is absorbed into the evaporator, more ice is formed, less airflow ...&#xA;The TXV bulb will radically drop in pressure as the evap temperature approaches freezing, and cause the TXV to completely shut off liquid refrigerant flow into the evaporator to prevent this condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I agree that &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; compressors (like your '04 CRV) are basically on/off devices, this does not describe the entire picture of energy, work, and heat conservation.  Also, I am NOT suggesting that the TXV is used for cabin temperature control.  Other posters have correctly mentioned this is almost always accomplished with the &quot;blend door&quot; mixing in heat with the post evaporator flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; compressors [very expensive German ones] use a variable swash plate that can change the stroke (displacement) of the compressor on the fly.  Controlled by the ECU usually, by a multitude of inputs such as engine RPM, AC load, road speed (condensor airflow), emissions, idle, engine load (WOT?), and fuel efficiency goals.  In this case, the compressor changes how much &quot;compressinating&quot; it needs based on load control from the ECU.  These systems, while uber-trick, probably cost more than their efficiency gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In any case:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  High hot evaporator airflow raises evaporator temperature&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  Evaporator temperature expands the magic juice in the TXV bulb&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  TXV bulb pressure opens liquid refrigerant flow into the evaporator&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  Refrigerant expasion in the evaoprator removes heat from the airflow&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  (Repeat)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T06:07:00.893" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:07:00.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32877" CreationDate="2016-07-15T01:56:02.767" Score="9" ViewCount="6805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an i-VTEC engine, which Honda claims to be a better and computerized version of their famous VTEC Engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering: Is it right to tell people that only HONDA has VTEC?&#xA;or is this technology distributed to other manufacturers as a different name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda VTEC is famous for their VTEC's &quot;Kick in power&quot;, are there similar existing technologies that are originally from other manufacturers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13642" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2017-05-20T03:03:12.120" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T06:46:57.523" Title="Is it right to say that VTEC is solely by Honda?" Tags="|engine|honda|camshaft|vtec|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32876" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:00:06.623" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wikipedia article on VTEC&lt;/a&gt; should be good at helping you understand it all. VTEC is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://trademarks.justia.com/862/82/vtec-86282503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trademark&lt;/a&gt; of Honda's patented technology (the original patents have expired but Honda have patented newer implementations such as A-VTEC). So no other manufacturer's production engine can do &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same thing. However, that doesn't mean they can't be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/vvt_2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This explains Honda's VTEC and Nissan's Neo VVL&lt;/a&gt; which both use switching/changing cam technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other methods of variable valve timing, but I couldn't find any other modern production methods like VTEC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, VTEC is Honda only and yes, there are other technologies that achieve the same, or very similar, goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional Resources&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not necessary, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7tTVYzuQs8s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;found this video&lt;/a&gt; to be very intriguing and good at explaining the basic workings of V-TEC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pakwheels.com/blog/heres-difference-toyotas-vvt-hondas-vtec/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a little something to read&lt;/a&gt; as well which compares VTEC to Toyota's VVT-I method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2018-05-23T19:54:47.800" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T19:54:47.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32866" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:43:24.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have 2 vehicles I can confirm it is better to stay in gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 2.2L MPFI intercooled turbo 5 speed stick.  It has an in dash navigator with a live fuel usage readout.  Leaving it in gear would consistently get better gas mileage than dumping it in neutral.  Even coming down mountains, where I am actually accelerating in neutral, i would get better mileage leaving it in gear and staying on the throttle slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1970 Chevrolet C20 Pickup 350, TH350, quadrajet.  I am not sure how stock the carb is.  The spring for the power piston on the primaries should be set that if you exceed a certain vacuum, it pulls the power piston closed.  Can't really confirm from gas mileage, but I can hear it in the exhaust.  When I am cruising, say 2000 RPM, barely on the gas, it is quiet and the A/F gauge reads really lean.  At idle, I can hear the exhaust more and the A/F is somewhere around stoich. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idling is inherently inefficient, since the engine has so little load.  Once you get past idle vacuum, you can basically stop supplying fuel (or very little) until the vacuum drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T02:43:24.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32876" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:49:29.033" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VTEC&lt;/strong&gt; is what &lt;strong&gt;Honda&lt;/strong&gt; are calling &lt;strong&gt;their&lt;/strong&gt; implementation of &lt;strong&gt;variable valve timing&lt;/strong&gt;. Each manufacturer has their own version of it, each with their own name. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_valve_timing#Automotive_nomenclature&quot;&gt;See here&lt;/a&gt; for a list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you are right in saying only Honda's have VTEC. But other makes have a system doing essentially the same thing, they just call it something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T02:49:29.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32873" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:57:32.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you suspect the loose rocks may have caused this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the air intake for cracks and leaks (leaning out the mixture too much)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look at the steel fuel lines for kinks (poor fuel delivery)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inspect the exhaust for kinks (too much back pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't think the rocks did this, you should do a compression test and take it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T02:57:32.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T03:15:46.220" Score="3" ViewCount="6876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Outback that's badly leaking power steering fluid somewhere at/near the pump. Stop-leak products have not helped. It'll go several months without the fluid getting unacceptably low, but it drips/pools on top of the engine where it smokes and makes an awful smell, so I need to do something about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the pump is rather expensive, I want to make sure I know it really needs to be replaced before just replacing it. With it mounted and operational, though, it's hard to see where the leak is coming from and whether it's from inside the pump or just in hoses or even just the fluid reservoir. Are there any good methods for finding the source of the leak? If it is the pump, is there anything that can be done to service it (gaskets etc. to replace) or does it just need a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T16:20:25.867" Title="What to do about leaking power steering fluid" Tags="|subaru|power-steering|leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32881" CreationDate="2016-07-15T04:43:57.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I think I see two questions in here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to identify where the leak is coming from, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there good alternatives to just replacing the pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first question one of the cooler (as in you feel smug and your friends think you're amazing) ways to approach this to dye the power steering fluid with a dye that is UV fluorescent and then use a UV light source to go looking for the leak. You'll need a dye that is compatible with power steering fluid, &lt;a href=&quot;http://tracerline.com/product/dye-lite-app-specific/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tracer Products&lt;/a&gt; makes one and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000JFHNTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, among others, carries it. There are other vendors too. Your local auto parts store probably stocks it. If you are a child of the '60s the black light sitting in your parent's attic will do the trick, otherwise you can get a UV flashlight for a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll do is put the dye in the fluid and look for the highest place where you see it. If the leak is easy to see, then you may be able to find it just by cleaning the area well and looking for the highest point where you can see fluid leaking out. But the dye is fun and relatively inexpensive. You can use the same light with dyes for coolant, oil, refrigerant, and probably money…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search with Google found a YouTube video that promises to explain &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJdr3icNEw0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to rebuild the power steering pump&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C9BZ4S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rebuild kit&lt;/a&gt; for the pump on Amazon. The reviews suggest a few parts that aren't in the kit, but still it looks like it is less that a quarter the cost of a new pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely place for a failure will be on moving (or easily damaged) parts, so the pump is a good bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T04:43:57.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T08:11:51.503" Score="7" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a 2 cylinder, 250 cc motorcycle which I am increasing the displacement to about 350 cc but I have no way of remapping the ECU. Is it possible to get a satisfactory result by changing the injectors to a larger size and use a adjustable fuel pressure regulator to fine tune the fuel supply?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19800" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T09:30:21.827" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T12:07:53.303" Title="Fuel injection modification for increased displacement" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-injectors|modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T08:43:38.923" Score="4" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought classic 350 about 8 months ago but since after only first 15 days of riding i started noticing tak-tak like noise from nearby engine.&#xA;Noise can only be heard while riding on low rpm when i accelerate after changing gear. But on neutral that noise dissappears.&#xA;I visited royal enfiled service station but their mechanics cannot hear that noise and told me that my bike is ok.&#xA;I have complained every single time while servicing my bike about that weird noise but they could not hear and understand what i have noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14160" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T01:12:51.080" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T07:32:56.503" Title="Royal enfiled classic 350 sounds like tak-tak while riding?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|noise|rpm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32887" CreationDate="2016-07-15T09:35:03.770" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an engineering student. And we have an assignments to test our abilities on working on something new that you never worked on, to help with problem solving and to allow us to tackle any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked working on a new way to power an Internal Combustion Engine for my project. It took a while to understand how an engine works but after a long time studying I believe I understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, I found a new way to cause pressure inside the combustion chamber to force the piston down - don't want to give to much away as this project is important for me.  I want to deliver it and store the systems inside the cylinder head to have direct access to the combustion chamber. My problem is I am stumped on the intricacies of the head. I need to come up with a whole new design but I don't know where to begin. And one problem I am having is how to connect this new head. I was going to use an air tight seal instead of bolts so this could work on any type of engine but I am not too sure as that lose its seal and fall off causing problems. So anyone in this field what components should I consider for making and mounting this new cylinder head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if my question is off-topic. I have been researching cylinder heads and engines and know a lot but this part is stumping me. I'm just trying to go to every place I can for help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T09:41:04.897" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T09:54:07.730" Title="Need Advice On Designing New Cylinder Head" Tags="|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32886" CreationDate="2016-07-15T09:44:10.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any design for a cylinder head for an internal combustion engine will need to be able to cope with large amounts of pressure and heat - so you'll almost certianly need bolts to hold it down. You'll still need an artight seal - that's what the Head Gasket is for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to consider how to get air in an exhaust gases out (valves and ports), how to control the vales (camshafts or similar), how to create the ignition (e.g. spark plugs for a petrol/gasoline engine), and how to keep it all cool (waterways or air-cooling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T09:44:10.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32886" CreationDate="2016-07-15T09:54:07.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I see the challenge here. Cylinder heads are quite capable of handling pressurized air - that's how turbocharged and supercharged engines work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Nick C says, head gaskets are an adequate means to maintain a pressure differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T09:54:07.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T10:43:10.210" Score="1" ViewCount="10056" Body="&lt;p&gt;2000 Toyota Tacoma&#xA;When I put the key in it just turns and won't start. It isn't the battery. It seems like it isn't catching for it to start. Could I need a new key or ignition switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19803" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T11:52:34.190" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T16:22:12.047" Title="2000 Toyota Tacoma - Won't start and it isn't the battery" Tags="|toyota|starting|ignition|tacoma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32889" CreationDate="2016-07-15T10:50:21.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible the issue is at the ignition switch.  The best way to test will be with a schematic and a test light to see that the ignition switch is getting voltage in, but is not putting voltage out when the key is turned.  If the ignition switch does put out voltage, follow it down the line to the starter relay, and the starter.  Also be sure to check any fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to replace the ignition switch, you may need to get a set of security bits to remove parts of the steering column/ignition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T10:50:21.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T10:58:01.127" Score="3" ViewCount="3828" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 1999 Mazda Familia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I start driving and the engine's cold the car often stutters and fluctuates between 500 and 750 revs. Then when I accelerate the revs go up but the car goes very slowly for a few seconds, then produces a loud thunk and launches fine (real bloody hassle at a busy intersection). Because the revs were increasing as normal I thought it might have been a transmission issue but the car still stutters and shakes like it's about to stall even when it's in neutral. Also when it's driving and it dips below about 1500 revs, the accelerator will skip for a few seconds before righting itself. This usually happens when the engine is cold and about 90% of the time it goes away after a few minutes when it's warmed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've booked it in for a service this weekend and I'm thinking it might be a spark plug or fuel line issue but I wanted some ideas from someone who knows more than me about cars (~99.9% of all people) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The car now always shudders, so it's getting worse. I've booked it in for a mechanic on Monday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've taken it in to a mechanic and he says it's probably the idle air control valve but the bigger issue is one of the coils is buggered so the car's running on three cylinders. It should hopefully be sorted tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19804" LastEditorUserId="19804" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T22:38:49.390" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T01:55:12.527" Title="Engine stuttering when idle or low rev (no check engine light)" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32893" CreationDate="2016-07-15T11:02:49.283" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know (other than a tape measure!) of where I can find the interior width from door to door of the rear seats of various car models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to fit three car seats in the back, which removes most small cars.  An older Ford Focus just about fits them in, but the new one is too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19805" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T11:25:50.857" Title="Find interior width of cars for three car seats" Tags="|interior|seat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32892" CreationDate="2016-07-15T11:25:50.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most car websites will give your measures like rear seat shoulder room or rear seat hip&#xA;room. That probably isn't going to be 100% helpful given that car seats tend to have bits and bobs that point out in weird ways (they aren't cubical child pods, after all). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you lay the seats next to each other with enough separation to adjust belts, you might be able to find some minimal dimensions. If any of the vehicles show hip and shoulder room as less than that number, eliminate them from your search. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T11:25:50.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T11:42:42.000" Score="3" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to start a very new 2014 Yamaha F40F engine on my dad's boat. The engine was used yesterday by my brother without issues but today it won't start at all, and I get a continuous alarm sound while the Engine Fault warning indicator is being shown in the display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a very shaky video to demonstrate the startup procedure and the alarm: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-l1kte7wha8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-l1kte7wha8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine was completely cold when I attempted to start it, and it worked fine yesterday. There are other warning indicators for such things as low oil pressure, low battery, water separator, and overheating. So I figure if any of those things was the problem here, those warning indicators would show instead of the more general &quot;engine fault&quot; indicator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips are very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19806" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T11:51:27.237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T11:51:27.237" Title="Yamaha F40F outboard boat engine continuous alarm when starting" Tags="|engine|starting|yamaha|boat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32884" CreationDate="2016-07-15T12:07:53.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few assumptions first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is an open loop alpha-n type of injection system (just has a TPS, no MAF or MAP sensors, no O2 sensor, no catalyst)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above is true, you could probably make it run using that method, but there will be a trade-off, the difference in fuel requirements at one condition (say idle) between the 250 and 350, will be different to the difference at another condition (say high rpm, WOT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. for your method to work well the volumetric efficiency of the new engine must the the same as the old engine, at all operating conditions. It won't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it might be close enough that you can get it to run acceptably: If you tune so that the leanest operating condition on the new engine is stoichiometric you will avoid lean misfires and overheating, then you can only hope that it doesn't happen to be too rich to run properly in other conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T12:07:53.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32897" CreationDate="2016-07-15T12:57:32.553" Score="1" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to attach the number plate on the front of my Mazda but I can't just put screws through as the holes are rectangle (see picture). I think it will need something in between but don't know the name of that accessory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exjqi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exjqi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;In fact, somebody stole my plate (on-street parking). For that I don't bother much because it was the old plate. I bought the car second-hand and applied for the new plate, which just arrived.&#xA;This is the plate before being stolen. It doesn't look like it needs something complicated/big/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6oZp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6oZp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19810" LastEditorUserId="19810" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T14:14:27.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T14:41:51.200" Title="What do I need to install the front number plate on my car?" Tags="|mazda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32896" CreationDate="2016-07-15T13:04:49.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick google search turns up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;license plate bracket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;license plate mount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could get more specific with a year and model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T14:41:51.200" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T14:41:51.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32694" CreationDate="2016-07-15T13:27:50.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Wormdrive or friction.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wormdrive&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worm drive is a non-reversible mechanism. This means that turning the input (worm) will turn the output (gear), but when you try to turn the gear, it won't move. This solution is most commonly encountered with powered windows, because worm drive inherently has very high ratio: turning the worm one full rotation will turn the gear only one spur. This is advantageous when you have a small electric motor which usually have high rpm but low torque. Worm gear serves here as both gearing and a lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Friction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As simple as that. The whole mechanism is merely &quot;stiff&quot; enough to stay where you put it. This solution is most commonly encountered with manually operated windows. There is no worm drive here because contrary to electric motor, human hand turning a crank provides low rpm but relatively high torque, so there is neither need nor room for such high ratio gears. In neglected old cars, when the window mechanism gets worn out and loose, it may reach a state where partially rolled down window will fall all the way after you let the crank go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;partially rolled down&quot; is important because without worm gear, an additional feature is required: in the very top position an additional locking mechanism engages. So in that case the weight of the glass pane is supported by the lock. Without the lock it would be always possible to force the window down, as it's possible to do it when it's cracked open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastEditorUserId="16091" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T13:33:00.097" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T13:33:00.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T13:53:18.960" Score="5" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;i drive an automatic toyota premio car and it makes a straining noise as it picks up speed and but normalizes when i slow down. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19812" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T22:06:35.833" Title="Automatic toyota 2002 premio car straining noise" Tags="|toyota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32901" CreationDate="2016-07-15T14:18:40.107" Score="8" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered this loose tape connector while fixing a coolant hose by the heater matrix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two more of these attached to the very bottom of the windscreen glass on each end, the loose one came from the middle somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJIQL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJIQL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sensor type thing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anywhere for it to plug back into, or any way to reattach it to the windscreen.&#xA;If relevant - Car is Focus ST MK2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it and what does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19809" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T08:19:14.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T08:19:14.797" Title="What is this? maybe a sensor?" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32900" CreationDate="2016-07-15T14:24:32.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a flex connector that has broken off. Perhaps part of a windscreen heater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBVc6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBVc6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Labone Heated Screen Connectors&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastEditorUserId="1751" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T14:29:46.523" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T14:29:46.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32900" CreationDate="2016-07-15T15:19:46.010" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's one of the Heated Windscreen connectors. They have a reputation for breaking off on the Ford Focus, because the wipers hit them if they're not routed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common for replacement glass companies to not notice that the car has a heated screen, so don't spend any money fixing it until you've confirmed that it still has a heated screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture shows the element in place on the left side of the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9A8e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9A8e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ford Heated Screen element&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T15:19:46.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32918" CreationDate="2016-07-15T15:37:52.523" Score="3" ViewCount="4198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a shift linkage bushing go out on our manual 03 Dodge Neon (85k miles). Ziptied ring to shifter to hobble home and light driving after ordering aftermarket bushings. Replaced just the bad bushing, and all was well until shortly after wife reported car was weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No power getting to the wheels. Car seems to go into gear, but it's like I'm riding the clutch when it's all the way up. I can drop the clutch in first and not stall. Gotta go to 4k rpm to get to 10mph in first. Wife had been driving it like this for about a week. Said she just stayed below 50 and kept it out of the redline. SMH...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worried shifter was not quite in gear, replaced other bushings at the transmission, both were gone, but probably were from the beginning, even after I &quot;fixed&quot; it with the zip tie the first time. Now shifter is tight, but no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it was drivable after the zip tie and suddenly not after the bushing, I don't suspect clutch. (unless they suddenly go out at the same time?) Or did making only one bushing tighter mess up the transmission in some way? Why would this start right after the bushing replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19813" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T16:55:28.003" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T11:13:14.840" Title="Manual transmission: high RPM / low power in all gears after shift linkage bushing replacement" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|neon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32876" CreationDate="2016-07-15T15:42:03.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last line of your question &quot;Are there existing technologies that are originally from other manufacturers?&quot; depends on your definition of VTEC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VTEC gives you the &quot;kick&quot; as the camshaft profile changes.  To understand the reason for this, you have to look at the difference between high performance race engines and those used in road cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically a fully race tuned engine will be lumpy and gutless in the lower RPM band.  It will have an erratic idle and will be easy to stall.  This is because it will have a race camshaft which opens the inlet valves very early, it may hold the inlet and exhuast valves open at the same time to improve chamber filling using the negative pressure in the exhaust (i.e. scavange it's inlet plenum) and it will keep the valves open for as long as possible to let the maximum about of air/fuel mixture into the cylinders.  This makes for an engine which produces significant amounts of power when revved hard, a &quot;screamer&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as a road car, it doesn't work.  When you're nan is popping down to the church on a Sunday, she doesn't want to have to bounce the car off the rev limited and nearly spin the wheels everytime she pulls away from a stop.  Race cars also use massive amounts of fuel, indeed the Viper does about 4MPG at full race speed.  In road cars, relatively mild cams are used which allow for smooth running and plenty of low down torque so that it's easy to pull away from near idle at a very small throttle opening without stalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable Valve Timing is not a new concept.  It is a way that combines the best of both worlds so when you're bumbling around a car park looking for a space, your car is smooth and not using massive amounts of fuel but when you need some power to overtake a truck, the car behaves as though it has a full race camshaft and gives you a significant hike in power.  This is done by having valves that do not open for a fixed duration across the rev range and in all conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the large static steam engines of the 1850's, you'll find the use of Rotary Valves in the likes of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corliss_steam_engine&quot;&gt;Corliss&lt;/a&gt; engines.  The patent for these goes back to 1849.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the automotive world, Porsche made a patent application in 1959 for an Oscillating Camshaft system that would dynamically adjust lift and duration in differing engine conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards actual automotive implementations, numerous manufacturers have their own systems and brand names for variable valve timing which work in different ways.  For example, Alfa Romeo introduced a commercial cam variator on the 1987 Alfa 75 Twinspark.  Volkswagen employed a similar setup using hydraulics within the actual camshaft drive gear on their VR6 engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiat have recently (commercially available in 2009) developed the Multi-air system which using electronically controlled hydraulic actuators so that they can adjust valve duration on a stoke by stroke basis.  This represents absolute control as it negates the need to select any fixed camshaft profiles or starting cam positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Porsche system eventually became VarioCam and was used on the 968.  The effect of this and many other systems is far more subtle than VTEC because these systems dynamically alter the cam profile whereas VTEC, in it's most basic form, employs two camshaft profiles and there is a noticeable &quot;kick&quot; when it activates.  That said, I can personally say that BMWs VANOS system does a similar thing and it's definitely noticeable when it activates although it isn't quite as sudden or pronounced as VTEC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VTEC is of course the protected brand name of a system used by Honda so any other manufacturers wishing to say their car had VTEC would have to pay a royalty to Honda or risk being sued out of existence.  This does not mean however that it was Honda who came up with the concept that adjusting lift, duration or cam timing as the requirements on the engine change.  The concept and alternative implementations exist at least as far back as 1849.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T15:42:03.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32907" CreationDate="2016-07-15T15:48:54.250" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn more about car engines but for the life if me can't find good illustrations of how some of them look (specifically a 2013 Nissan Juke) where do you go to get information and illustrations to get an accurate view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:03:10.670" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:03:10.670" Title="Where do you go to find illustrations of car parts?" Tags="|engine|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32891" CreationDate="2016-07-15T15:57:20.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad spark plugs would make an engine shake almost always, but they won't make the revs go up and down. I would blame: choke and/or idle valve, probably stuck if by manual wire, or clogged with dirt/oil if electronic. Abnormal (low, because it won't be higher) gas line pressure will make the engine stall or go almost to stall, but won't raise the revs neither. So check choke and idle valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T15:57:20.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32905" CreationDate="2016-07-15T16:00:06.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a starting point you could do a search, say on Google, for something like &quot;2013 nissan juke engine&quot; – then in the results click on Images (at the top of the window under the address bar). That should get you headed in the right general direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get more specific by adding specific components that you'd like to see or by including a process that you're interested in. For example, &lt;strong&gt;crankshaft&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;replace timing belt.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:00:06.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32310" CreationDate="2016-07-15T16:01:15.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since low budget is stated as a main requirement, I am assuming that professional repainting is not an option. Hard to tell from a photo, but the scratch on the side probably will not buff out. But I would try anyways to be sure. A good random orbital buffer with a medium cutting pad to see if it buffs out, then polish it back to a shine. If that works, great, if not, need to repaint. The leading edge of the scratch on the passenger front door might be able to buff out, so you don't have 2 panels that need resprayed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The peeling paint on the fender will need to be painted. You can get OK results painting a fender with a rattle can if you use a high quality product like what you find at APS Tower Paint company. Get your paint code and order a couple cans per panel, a couple cans primer, and a couple cans of clear. Remove the fenders if you can, and if not mask the surrounding panels off with tape and also plastic sheets so you don't get overspray on the other panels. Prep the panel by sanding with 80 grit, then 120, then 200.  The instructions on the primer can will say what grit you stop at, which is usually 200 or 320. Don't use finer sand than what the primer can says because primer doesn't stick to a surface that is too smooth. Wash all the sand off, and let it dry, then prime. Now look at the instructions on the color coat, and after the primer is dry and ready to be sanded (as per its instructions), do so. The color coat will probably say you need to wet sand the primer with 400 grit. Again, don't go any finer or the color coat won't bond properly. Wash, dry, then pain with the color coat. Once dry, as per its instructions, next wet sand the color coat according to its instructions. If it says don't wet sand at all, then don't. Do whatever the paint instructions say, then wash, dry, and apply the clear coat. You will end up wet sanding the clear coat with 1000 or 1500 grit, then 2000, then polishing to get the shine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fenders will turn out OK with cans, but the door panels may not turn out so well. Painting a wide area needs a wider spray pattern than any can can do. The result might be that you might be able to see the overlap if you look hard enough at the finished product. However, that will still look better than a scratch, and also prevent that scratch from rusting out the panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please understand that the colors of the newly painted panels may not match the surrounding (not repainted) panels 100% because they may have faded over the years. If you look closely, from a distance, you might see a difference. Body shops will blend into the surrounding panels so this is not noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to polish the entire car, using a medium cutting pad on the panels that weren't repainted, and polish to get those panels as smooth as the ones you repainted and wet sanded, and this also might help getting the colors to match because the old panels might be slightly yellowed due to UV over the years, and a medium cutting pad will remove that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in the pictures there is some orange peel in the existing paint (because the outline of your legs reflection is jagged and not smooth), so you won't want to wet sand and polish the newly painted panels/areas to a smoother consistency than the other panels. Or, you can wet sand the existing panels as well, and that car will shine like it never has. But that is a lot of time consuming work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that small area of missing paint on the drivers rear door, I'd be tempted to only do those area and blend into the rest of that door panel and rear fender. It won't be perfect, but painting the whole door panel with a rattle can runs a higher risk of ending up looking worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of paint and materials will be about $200 to $300, and it will take several hours of your time. Be patient and follow the directions on the paints to the T. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd stay away from the paints sold in auto retail stores or touch-up bottles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17711" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:01:15.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32899" CreationDate="2016-07-15T16:01:17.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A straining noise that gets consistently louder in pitch and/or volume as the car gets faster is usually a sign of a worn bearing in a wheel or it could be a problem in the differential (rear wheel drive) or transaxle (front wheel drive). As the car moves faster the wheels and the mechanisms that drive the wheels spin faster making the bearings move faster, and the bad bearing makes a louder or higher pitches noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a piece of road junk that has gotten wedged in a wheel well or a piece of material from the car itself that is rubbing, as the wheels move faster there's more rubbing and more noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car is pulling one way or the other you could have a stuck brake on the side it is pulling to, it's also possible you have a stuck emergency brake. Those are less likely scenarios. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the noise is coming from will give you the best clue, wherever the noise is is where the problem is. If it seems to be coming from a particular wheel then that's what needs to be checked. If it seems to be coming from the middle-front of the car then it's probably in the transaxle or CV joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:01:17.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32889" CreationDate="2016-07-15T16:06:24.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in the other answers, first check if you are or not getting power to those things that gets serviced when you turn the key. If you have a flat dead scenario here, then you need to check the ignition key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get these loads working (lights, radio, etc) and if the starter doesn't turn, check starter fuse, starter relay and starter exciter wire to its solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the starter turns but the car won't start, check you have gas in the tank :) If you have gas in the tank, then you need to route an electrical test from spark plugs all the way to coil. Have spark? Then it is the gas not coming in. No spark? Check wire, no spark? Check coil to distributor spark, no spark then check volts into coil. No volts, then the wire to coil is fault. Volts into coil but no spark at its end? Coil is bad. No spark at end of wire from coil to distributor? Wire is bad, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fastest way is: put new sparks, put new ignition wires and test. The engine is not starting...electrical or gas fault. Check for sparks, check for gas coming in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T16:06:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32522" CreationDate="2016-07-15T17:14:09.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a coolant flange. Not totally familiar your your engine but there is usually two of them mounted to the engine. They are made out of plastic and are prone to cracking. I had to replace one last year on my Golf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, be sure to get an OEM part since this is not very expensive and the OEM part should last a lot longer than a cheap part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19816" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T17:14:09.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32919" CreationDate="2016-07-15T17:16:06.950" Score="10" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around 1987-1988 I had a Ford Fiesta/Festiva. I was in the Army and regularly made weekend trips, driving from southern California to Central Washington a trip of about 1200 miles. I would leave in the evening at the end of the work day, and drive straight through (&lt;em&gt;I was younger then&lt;/em&gt;).  This little car would do well over 100mph, but was very happy strolling along at around 100 and it would get 40mpg doing it! at the time, there was almost no police presence on I-5 in Oregon at night. I would make it across the state &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interstate_5_in_Oregon&quot;&gt;308 miles&lt;/a&gt; in 3 hour plus or minus a couple minutes, &lt;strong&gt;with a gas stop&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is long gone, the memories of the trips and that fantastic gas mileage are still with me.  I am pretty sure it was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fiesta_(first_generation)&quot;&gt;Ford Fiesta (first generation)&lt;/a&gt; I bought it used in about 1987, and drove it until I blew a head gasket (&lt;em&gt;I recall it was of European decent&lt;/em&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30 years later, there are some cars that make claims of 40mpg, but in the real world I don't think any pure gas cars really do. As an example The 2016 Honda Fit is advertising 41mpg hwy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30+ years later it seems reasonable we should have entry level cars, that easily meet and surpass this.  It seems like I should be able to buy an inexpensive car that will cruise at 75mph and get 60mpg, why can't I? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T19:01:44.093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:44:06.047" Title="40MPG at 100MPH?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T17:47:58.590" Score="3" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a 2015 Nissan Versa and noticed the steering column squeaks, but only when past a certain point when tilting upwards.  Fully tilted upwards, it squeaks the most.  Halfway down, slight squeaking.  All the way down, no squeaking at all.  Turning the wheel doesn't seem to cause it, but the vibrations of the road does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it locks in pretty tight - I don't feel any movement of the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what might be causing this and how to resolve my squeaking issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14224" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T18:06:36.400" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:06:36.400" Title="Steering columns squeaks only when tilted upwards" Tags="|nissan|steering|noise|versa|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23003" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:03:01.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind here is that you're looking at the same problem either way – with a manual you're wearing the friction materials in the clutch, with an automatic the wear is happening to the brakes. But either way you're converting some of the excess energy into heat and friction. Obviously this is something that cars have to be designed to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the whole I'd say that wearing the brakes on the automatic is the lesser of two &quot;evils&quot; since it is usually a simpler and less expensive job to replace the brake pads than to replace the clutch. That said we've got two Jetta wagons that spend way too much time in traffic. Both are pushing 300,000 miles. One is an automatic, the other a manual. Neither is showing significant wear on the brakes or clutch (the automatic is pushing 80,000 miles on the front brakes, the manual has at least 75,000 miles on the clutch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The durability of cars is amazing when you really think about it – even the ones that we think of as awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:03:01.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32917" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:06:32.203" Score="5" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX, which didn't come with a cabin air filter. It has air conditioning but no filter, which makes no sense but that's how they supposedly were until 2001. When I turn my AC on, I can smell mold for the first few seconds it's on, then I can't smell it anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered about &lt;em&gt;replacing&lt;/em&gt; the cabin air filter but it doesn't exist. That was my first idea; maybe the filter itself is moldy. I looked all around the fabrics and porous materials for any signs of mold, with no luck. The only thing I can imagine would be moldy in the vent system is the insulating wrap around the ducts, in which case I'd have to pull the dash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it isn't that, is there any way to kill the mold inside the ducts? Is there some method of maybe running a fungicide like bleach through the cabin intake without it spraying everything in the car when I turn the blowers on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19818" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:36:10.893" Title="Eliminating Mold/Mildew Smell from Car without Cabin Air Filter?" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|cabin-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32916" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:36:10.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use a fungicide as harsh as bleach as it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; damage the internal ventilation systems behind your dash. &#xA;You can use a more specific cleaner which is sold commonly in autoparts stores.&#xA;It is usually called &quot;A/C duct cleaner&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19819" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:36:10.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32903" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:37:32.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest removing the linkage from the shifter and move the linkage directly at the transmission into second.  I believe it is one arm.  In and out is like moving the shifter side to side.  Rotating the arm puts it into the individual gears.  Play with it and you should be able to find reverse as it sounds different when you go in.  Put it in second, start it and try to move the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sound like there is an issue with the clutch linkage.  make sure it isn't getting hung up somewhere.  You may need to adjust the clutch linkage.  On the older dodge's the adjustment is at the clutch pedal.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible its time for a clutch replacement, especially after the abuse its been though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:37:32.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:54:31.230" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons is loads of extra weight added by safety features and options. 8 airbags, 12 speaker stereo, 14 way adjustable seats, tons of insulation all around, power windows, power locks, 18 computers with hundreds of sensors, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider the size/power output of the engine.  It looks like your car had a 4 speed manual.  Most cars today have 6-9 speed automatics.  Engines today are more complex with DOHC and variable valve timing, which makes the vehicle heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least where I am (Eastern USA), gasoline today is mixed with 10% ethanol, which has less chemical energy than straight gasoline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T02:21:55.890" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T02:21:55.890" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27112" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:11:12.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in the owners manual (if you don't have it, check online there may be a PDF version available). That should both tell you what the various reservoirs are for and what is supposed to go in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T20:11:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32924" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:58:42.043" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiancée was in a minor front end collision recently with enough damage to the vehicle that many pieces of the vehicle's front needed to be fixed or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weather has been heating up since the repair and we've noticed the A/C in her vehicle (2011 Toyota Venza) is not working consistently. She has taken the vehicle back to the auto body shop to have them review and they told her that the A/C condenser is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the repair bill (covered by insurance) and see a couple line items regarding work to the A/C unit, including one for a removed/replaced after market A/C condenser assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the body shop purchased a new after market A/C condenser assembly to replace the one damaged in the accident how likely is it to not function correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19820" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T21:29:43.443" Title="How likely is a recently replaced AC condenser to be bad?" Tags="|toyota|ac|condenser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T21:27:39.770" Score="3" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter has a 2008 PT Cruiser.  For months she has had the problem of &quot;when she pushes on the gas pedal it doesn't work and the car jerks back and forth.&quot;  Those are her words.  We have taken it to the dealer twice, they keep saying they can't find anything wrong with it, because it isn't doing it when she takes it in.  Any suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19822" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T21:37:26.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:30:54.467" Title="non reactive gas pedal" Tags="|chrysler|throttle|pt-cruiser|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32922" CreationDate="2016-07-15T21:29:43.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing an AC compressor involves completely recharging the refrigerant, which requires specialized equipment to evacuate the air and replace it with refrigerant and generally costs about $140 for most vehicles, while topping up an already charged system can be done with more rudimentary equipment, since there isn't any air in the system, simply a lower pressure of refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most body shops don't know enough about mechanical stuff. If your shop used the &quot;topping up technique&quot; on your repair that needed a full recharge, then there is still plenty of air in your AC system and it mixed with the refrigerant, and that will negatively impact cooling performance. This is a common repair mistake by people who do not know about AC. If you suspect this may have happened, go to an AC-certified shop and get your system bled and recharged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T21:29:43.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32933" CreationDate="2016-07-15T21:48:33.837" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a such thing as a car radio that I can develop software for? It can run Windows or Linux OS. I have a radio that currently runs Windows CE but I can't find an easy way to load any software onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19824" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:30:10.140" Title="Car radio that I can develop for" Tags="|car|audio|software|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T22:25:49.523" Score="3" ViewCount="10381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '86 jeep comanche with over 380000 mls that has started to tick on acceleration and through gears. Also at idle. Have changed motor mounts, transmission mounts, track bar, rear differential fluid, brake pads and rear driver axle and bearings. It always smells like exhaust! Pyew. HELP?&#xA;And it is a manual. Oil level is ok. But need to tighten the valve cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19825" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T02:34:42.270" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T12:22:13.920" Title="Ticking noise on acceleration &amp; idle?" Tags="|engine|jeep|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32891" CreationDate="2016-07-15T22:36:08.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try adding spme Heet to the has tank. Sometimes water builds up and causes reving in engines. This helped our rev issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19825" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:36:08.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27697" CreationDate="2016-07-15T22:56:53.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the wheel bearing which was causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13122" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T22:56:53.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T23:42:47.753" Score="0" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fuel gauge in the 1999 Pontiac Sunfire is not working properly. What could be the problem? I'm looking for anything that could be the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19826" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:10:15.060" Title="The fuel gauge is messed up" Tags="|fuel-system|pontiac|sunfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2016-07-16T00:29:11.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To remove the fuses take the 3 bolts on the side out that hold the black cables to the fuse box, the loosen with a thin flathead on the front part of the fuse and lift. They come right out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19829" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:29:11.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32925" CreationDate="2016-07-16T00:30:10.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very common to use small android tablets in double-DIN slots, and you then get all the fun of Android development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:30:10.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32931" CreationDate="2016-07-16T01:10:15.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably bad gas level sensor, which is a floater device immerse in the fuel tank, with an arm with a contact that touches a coil type resistance. When the floater moves up and down the arm touches the resistance wire, modifying the voltage to the fuel gauge. If the contact between the arm and the resistance is not even, or the resistance itself is damaged, the gauge reading will be fault. This device &quot;could&quot; be fixed sometimes, but otherwise I would replace it with a new one. The replacement job is nothing complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:10:15.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2016-07-16T01:19:38.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you suddenly push the gas pedal and the car doesn't react well, doesn't pickup but hesitates it means that uneven fuel mixture is getting in. Or the gas line pressure is low (clogged filter, bad pump) and it is not providing sufficient gas, or the air intake is blocked (dirty filter) and is not giving all the air the engine requires. Check: gas and air filters. Check spark plugs (carbonized = uneven fuel mixture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it could be bad timing, but I guess if it wasn't touched before, it shouldn't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:19:38.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2016-07-16T01:20:05.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;airflow meter:&lt;/strong&gt; could need a cleaning, most likely is partially disconnected or has a bad ground connection. Unplug it and replug it to verify the electrical connection, then inspect the grounding wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;poor fuel delivery:&lt;/strong&gt; likely could be injectors, fuel filter or fuel pump. Test the fuel pressure and take it from there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;throttle position sensor:&lt;/strong&gt; could be defective and therefore incorrectly report data to the ECU. Disconnect and reconnect to rule out a loose connection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;water in the fuel:&lt;/strong&gt; use a fuel treatment to eliminate this possibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often is the trouble happening? Is the check engine light on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:20:05.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32927" CreationDate="2016-07-16T01:23:52.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it smells like exhaust, you likely have an exhaust leak. Start looking for that. The click could be some rattling in the exhaust system. Please describe the click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:23:52.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2016-07-16T01:30:54.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;doesn't work and the car jerks back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is more indicative of a transmission or clutch issue. One obvious and simple thing to check is the ATF level. Make sure it's appropriate as per the manufacturers spec (assuming it is automatic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't fully know how auto trans systems work, much less the one is an '08 PT Cruiser, but you could also check all the basics such as fuses, battery all that. Not sure if your car has a button for overdrive, but also figuring out exactly what combination causes the problem will help greatly in figuring out what's broken without tearing everything apart. As others have mentioned, it could be something injection/fuel related. That is not all that hard to test for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that could be having issues I the the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor. If it is feeding wrong info (even briefly) to the injection and/or timing system, this could also cause lurching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can put some more accurate information after doing some research, but check all the above as a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T01:30:54.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T02:25:13.083" Score="3" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new leak at the rear driveshaft. What could this be and how do i fix? Mechanics cost too much and are unreliable (past experience) the repair manual said if it leaks in the rear the problem is at the front but fr using it so much I lost those pages. HELP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19825" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T02:25:13.083" Title="Oil leak at rear drive shaft... 86 jeep comanche" Tags="|jeep|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T02:33:30.920" Score="2" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;AUDI A4 2012 2TFSI QUATTRO - I took my car into a service centre for a check and was told both differentials have got have cracks. Car is still on motor plan, took it into Audi to be replaced and was told it is normal. They cannot change it if is not broken. Can some one confirm if this is true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19832" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T12:41:11.673" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T12:41:11.673" Title="Cracks on both front and back differential - Normal?" Tags="|audi|differential|awd|a4|quattro|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32944" CreationDate="2016-07-16T04:37:40.530" Score="6" ViewCount="14368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the spark plugs and wires on my 2002 Ford Focus SE with Zetec (DOHC) engine. I used NGK TR5IX (7397-4PK) Iridium IX plugs and Motorcraft wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I received the plugs, they were gapped to about 0.03'. The owners manual it says gap should be 1.3mm (0.051 in) and most online sources I found agreed, so I set the gap to 0.051&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now there is a rough idle, and when I first start going it is really sluggish accelerating (it seems to get better once I've been going for a minute or so). But when I stop the car and let it idle, the engine has been dying (it starts right back up no problem, though, and doesn't die while moving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what could be causing the problem. Is it possible that the plugs I got need to be gapped differently from the manufacturers recommendations? Also, there was some rust around the spark plug wells that I tried my best to clean off before removing the old plugs, but a (very) tiny bit of rust dust fell in when I pulled them out. Could that be it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I don't know what to do at this point - any ideas how to diagnose what is wrong? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Ugh ... right after writing this, I discovered the problem: Amazon's crappy car part compatibility tool suggested the wrong plugs for me (2nd time: they also sent me the wrong PCV valve ... definitely won't trust it anymore). So I have requested a refund, and will get the new plugs tomorrow from O'Reilly ... but in the meantime, I guess that changes my question to whether or not I could have caused any permanent damage driving around for about an hour today with the wrong plugs?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastEditorUserId="19110" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T04:48:01.123" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T22:14:00.363" Title="Rough idle + slow acceleration + engine dying after spark plug change" Tags="|sparkplugs|power|rough-idle|focus|acceleration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T05:04:56.787" Score="3" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car was in a collision and the front bumper is dented inward and cracked, I'm guessing up to an inch wide.  Is there a way to either fill the crack with some type of foam? (Sophisticated tools and workbench are not currently available)  If not, then how to at least seal the damage with something that will prevent rust?  I've seen a couple videos that mentioned primer.  Is it as simple as just spraying primer on the affected area?  It's an older vehicle so it doesn't have to look visually pleasing as much as it just has to protect against the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19835" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T05:04:56.787" Title="How to seal / repair large crack in bumper" Tags="|repair|rust|body|bumper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32942" CreationDate="2016-07-16T05:35:40.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not. Engines are pretty tough. But pull a plug before you drive anymore and check for mechanical damage. Pistons hitting plugs would not be good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also double check your plug wires and make sure you've got the firing order right and that all of the connections feel solid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T05:35:40.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T11:24:05.360" Score="6" ViewCount="10898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCi 2006 model and I recently did a head gasket change. Now there is a oil leak from the engine, behind the turbo, i cant seem to find the source, but it looks bad. Can anyone help diagnose the problem&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/645f7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/645f7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9qcf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9qcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/726bz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/726bz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19836" LastEditorUserId="19836" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T06:05:10.157" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T19:13:57.033" Title="Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCi Oil Leak" Tags="|ford|oil-leak|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T15:57:17.463" Score="5" ViewCount="1694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tow bar and a seven pin plug to operate the lights, fitted on my car. I recently took my boat for repair and when they brought it out of the workshop they dropped it from a forklift truck several inches onto the tow bar. When I plugged the trailer lights in nothing worked. I checked the socket on the back of the car and it was completely dead. On the way home I called on a friend and plugged the boat trailer into his car and everything worked fine. So I knew it was a problem with the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days later I fitted a new socket on the back of the car, tested it with a multimeter and everything was showing 12 volts when switched on. When I plugged my caravan in none of the lights worked on the caravan but everything worked on the car. I unplugged the caravan from the car and tested the socket on the car and it was completely dead. After a few minutes without doing anything but scratch my head I tested it again with the multimeter and found power had been restored. So I plugged the caravan back in and none of the lights on it worked. So unplugged it tested the socket on the car... dead. A few minutes later power was restored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help me with this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19841" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T17:54:09.790" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T06:25:08.873" Title="Trailer socket problems" Tags="|electrical|lights|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32947" CreationDate="2016-07-16T16:30:58.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check (and think about when using a meter) is where the ground is coming from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a ground wire in the trailer wiring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a good solid connection of the ground wire to the frame of the trailer (or to the ground side of the circuits on the trailer)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a good solid connection between the ground conductor on the vehicle side and the vehicle ground (often the body of the vehicle)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you've described so far, it seems like the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is on the vehicle side (the problem follows the vehicle, not the trailer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trailer plug and/or wiring on the car side sounds like it may have been damaged by the way the boat trailer was handled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem may be intermittent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ground problems can be intermittent when there are loose connections or multiple return paths. As you troubleshoot keep that in mind. So you should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test both the &quot;official&quot; ground (the circuit through the plug) and also any alternative circuits you can think of. One will exist through the ball of the hitch. That path is notoriously unreliable due to rust, grease, and the movement of hitch on the ball.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep in mind that you may have added a test case (caravan vs. boat trailer) and there may be some new unknowns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If need be you could run a wire (for testing and maybe permanently) back to the battery from the trailer connector. That will eliminate possible ground issues on the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dropping the boat trailer onto the hitch suggests mechanical damage – maybe pinched wires. Look for any evidence of that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility here is the mysterious loss and then return of the power on the new connector. Some vehicles use self-resetting circuit breakers instead of fuses on critical circuits (the ones that I know of are on the headlights, but it seems like the running lights and signal lights would also be candidates for circuit breakers. So keep an open mind for the possibility of a short as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T16:38:08.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T16:38:08.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32952" CreationDate="2016-07-16T17:27:32.467" Score="4" ViewCount="3163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a driver's acceleration practices substantially influence the wear on a car's automatic transmission? If a driver accelerates with a RPM &gt; 3500 from stop, is this any &quot;easier&quot; on the automatic transmission than accelerating slowly at &amp;lt; 3000 RPM? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the long term, if a driver accelerates with a consistent pattern of acceleration, so that the timing of shifting up in gears is nearly the same, is the wear on the automatic transmission any different than if they were to vary it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19843" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:10:51.613" Title="Acceleration practices and wear on automatic transmission" Tags="|automatic-transmission|acceleration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32866" CreationDate="2016-07-16T18:18:36.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you everyone, the actual answer is, as 'I have no idea what I'm doing' have posted a link in comments, no fuel is being injected at all, so modern engines consumes fuel at idle speed, when you switch in neutral and keep rolling, but it consumes no fuel at all if you just take your foot off and leave in gear, using an engine as a break. Plus you don't wear your brake shoes :D That's all. Same as I had on racing engines, same technology on road engines. &#xA;Thanks rpmerf for experiences :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor engines still gives a fuel, that's why they are shooting fire out of exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T18:18:36.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32950" CreationDate="2016-07-16T19:10:51.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmissions are not mechanically linked to the engine (unlike manual transmissions), they are linked by your transmission fluid only. That gives us 3 things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gears:&lt;/strong&gt; Since they are mechanically linked to your wheels, your actual speed (not engine speed) is what dictates how fast the gears are spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torque converter:&lt;/strong&gt; This is mechanically connected to your gears and linked through fluid to the engine. Higher engine speeds will make it spin faster, and that alone is unlikely to cause wear since we are talking about accelerating, we will only spend a small amount of time at high RPMs. Remaining at high RPMs may cause metal fatigue though, but I think something else may break first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine:&lt;/strong&gt; The RPMs are in the engine, therefore the engine is what is absorbing the vibrations, the torque and the heat. Higher RPMs mean more of all 3. Heat can be managed by the cooling system, but even with everything running optimally, there's a limit on how long you can maintain high RPMs before the temperature starts going up (you have a gauge for this). Many engines will auto-shutdown when the temperature gets too high in order to avoid engine damage. That leaves torque and vibration, and these 2 are likely to stress metal parts of the engine. Although there are rubber bushings and other related contraptions to absorb vibrations, they still contribute to wear, and the higher torque of higher RPMs is putting more strain on several components inside the engine, chiefly the crankshaft, piston rods and just about all the seals. Depending on the relative strength of each design, the weakest will let go first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, don't worry about high RPMs too much. Drive the way you drive, and feel free to push high RPMs on occasion, just stay safely away from the redline on your tachometer. My redline is at 6900 RPMs, and I regularly push my engine to about 5000 RPMs when I really want to go, since high RPMs is where all my torque is. There is nothing special about my engine and I'm nearing 300,000 km on it. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:10:51.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32942" CreationDate="2016-07-16T19:29:09.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about engine damage. The main difference between these 2 spark plugs is the length, the one you used is shorter. That means 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the spark was not created in the best place, meaning you were not burning all your fuel. This is the lack of power you were feeling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is no chance your pistons hit your spark plug since the plugs you used are &lt;strong&gt;7 mm shorter&lt;/strong&gt; than what you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10167&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NGK TR5IX&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9886&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NGK LTR5IX&lt;/a&gt;. Under 'Specs', look at 'Reach'. 18 mm vs 25 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:29:09.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2016-07-16T19:34:06.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there was at least one such crazy contraption, called Flybo Total Electric... 4 speed manual gearbox, complete with clutch and all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was reviewed by the Hungarian Totalcar magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;js=y&amp;amp;prev=_t&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Ftotalcar.hu%2Ftesztek%2Ftotalelectri%2F&amp;amp;edit-text=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Article Google-translated to English&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://totalcar.hu/tesztek/totalelectri/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Original article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.indavideo.hu/video/En_ettol_felek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video - Hungarian only, sorry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up: the title of the video says &quot;I'm scared of this&quot; says all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19845" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:34:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31796" CreationDate="2016-07-16T20:45:28.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of vehicles today have a check valve that prevents them from leaking fuel out the fill port in case the vehicle rolls-over. Depending on the exact design of the check valve, some of them cause difficulty filling-up. Also, different fuel station pumps flow at different rates, not only because of design, but also because of the fuel level in the underground tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your filling problem is not new, this is likely the cause of it. Just fill slower, a lot slower. And take little 5-10 second breaks when the pump stops. Try a different fuel station, see if your Sentra likes their pumps better. I onced leased a 2010 Sentra and it always had this problem, solve it by filling much slower and avoiding some fuel stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your filling problem is new, investigate as has been suggested in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your tank filled to the brim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reset your trip odometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See how many miles you get from a full tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at what your fuel gauge is reading from time to time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be an electrical trouble (loose connection) with the fuel sensor, or the floater gets stuck somewhere. Most cars have an access hatch under the rear seat. Do not do this with a full tank, your car will stink of gas for a good long time, not to mention the fire risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T20:45:28.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T23:14:55.317" Score="4" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;while i was driving my car going about 20 miles an hour i tried to stop and all my brakes were gone even my e brake...i panicked shut my key and put my car in park..well it stopped but it made a boom sound....i had the brakes fixed the next day and the car was fine....yesterday i went up to the store and when i came out the car wouldn't go into drive or reverse....it has transmission fluid in it.....did my transmission blow...there is no leak either.....i need to know asap because i'm going to have to junk it and if the transmission isn't blown and it's just something easy to fix i'd rather do that..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19851" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T17:21:10.130" Title="transmission blown?" Tags="|transmission|mercury|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-16T23:37:45.380" Score="4" ViewCount="16549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sat for a very long time (8 or 10 minutes) in gear with the clutch depressed due to traffic. Once I got back into motion my clutch seemed to have been blown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the bike cooling down (half hour), everything seemed to be fine. Had no clutch during the problem, back to normal after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know anything about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19853" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T21:31:44.520" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T04:50:47.993" Title="Clutch Slipping on Motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32961" CreationDate="2016-07-17T01:19:57.780" Score="5" ViewCount="7765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH (180k miles), I am trying to identify a whining sound coming from the right side under the hood. The sound consistently starts after I tap the throttle, lasts at a constant pitch for any where from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, then stops as suddenly as it starts: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgvdJkdB3AA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound doesn't seem to happen within the first few minutes of turning the car on, only after the engine has been running for a few minutes (does not seem to be dependent on temperature; e.g. if I turn the car on when the engine's already warm is still doesn't happen in the first few minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sound has been going on for a few months. I can't pinpoint the source vertically, but it's definitely coming from the ps pump / alternator / ac compressor area (all three are on top of eachother in this car):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtBaj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtBaj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to be the belts themselves (there are two, driven by crankshaft, one for the p/s pump and one for the alternator + compressor); the consistency of the sound's sudden start / stop seems to rule that out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's the compressor; the sound is independent of whether the a/c is on or not. I also don't think it's the p/s pump, it's independent of the steering state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it must be the alternator, since that's the only thing left. So my questions, before I start taking things apart, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is that a sound the alternator can make?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If so, why does it start and stop and only happen after revving? What is the mechanism that is producing that sound (I want to know because I want to make it not happen any more)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could it be the belt? Maybe something about its tension makes it whine when the alternator is under load...? Does that happen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If not, what else could it be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I'm having any problems with the electrics in the car. Everything seems to be functioning properly. The battery charges. It can handle full electric load at idle (I've tested with a/c + all interior/exterior lights + defrost on + stereo at max volume + an inverter charging a laptop while rolling all the power windows and sun roof open and close at the same time, has no problem, maintains a reasonable voltage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an alternator test procedure in the service manual although I have not performed it. I don't want to start ripping out parts without a better theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the alternator, I can't figure out why it would make that noise. I don't really understand how they work. The belt is always turning so I'm not sure why the noise wouldn't just always happen (assuming it's the alternator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's useful, here is an exploded view of my alternator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f41ls.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f41ls.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something in the alternator that starts and stops spinning even while the input shaft continues spinning? I don't see any kind of clutch-looking thing in the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator and compressor are the original parts. The steering pump... I don't remember, it's either original or at least 6-7 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T02:02:42.510" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T02:02:42.510" Title="Loud whining sound after revving. Alternator, maybe (but why)?" Tags="|honda|noise|troubleshooting|prelude|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32960" CreationDate="2016-07-17T01:42:15.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this: get a water spray and a friend that can help you to rev until the noise comes in, then start to spray one suspecting item, say, the alternator's pulley/belt. Just a bit of water there...and do with the rest if you don't see the noise disappear. What you will be doing is to lubricate the pulley with water, so the belt won't squeal. This is a very simple way to find slipping belt noises. Inside the alternator, there isn't anything that can mimic the sound of a squealing belt. Neither inside the a/c compressor. Those would produce other noises, aka, &quot;grinding&quot; because their bearings going bad...Other test could be if you unbelt the power steering pump, that will at least narrow the suspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T01:42:15.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32967" CreationDate="2016-07-17T01:58:20.900" Score="10" ViewCount="5859" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a typical modern, heavily computer controlled, somewhat complex passenger car, is there any difference between pressing the gas pedal vs. opening the throttle valve under the hood by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. important sensors on the pedal or the cable, other cables that aren't actuated when opening the valve directly, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:10:35.327" Title="Is there any difference between pressing the gas pedal and opening the throttle by hand?" Tags="|throttle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32962" CreationDate="2016-07-17T02:31:52.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fair as I know, it is the same since the wire turns the throttle valve. The commanding wire doesn't do anything else, nor it has any other sensors/wires attached. It is a simple mechanism to act over the throttle. The ECU (computer), may adjust the fuel/air mix by acting over other electronic valves and mainly depending on the exhaust gases &quot;quality&quot;, among other readings it uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T02:31:52.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32958" CreationDate="2016-07-17T02:34:45.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when things make a boom sound they are not happy campers. Jamming it into park at 20 mph would definitely damage or destroy quite a few things in the transmission. Is your transmission blown? - Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 options available: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Major overhaul on the transmission. &#xA;  Replace the transmission&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the transmission would probably be cheaper. Check with the mechanic who did your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T02:34:45.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32976" CreationDate="2016-07-17T03:01:00.623" Score="4" ViewCount="11771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hit blind stump, bent blade bad, replaced blade, no start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced spark plug, air filter, still won't start (needed it anyhow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prime or no prime, similar behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cranked over 150 times now, every once in a while I get but seems like a single ignition and a single black puff comes out,  but it doesn't really turn over more than that one firing.  It seems like pulling the string is normal ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?   I did have to turn it on its side to replace the blade...  Anything I should be looking for regarding that ?   Can hitting a stump do something that damages more than just the blade(shaft bent, timing knocked off, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19856" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T15:58:30.917" Title="Craftsman push mower won't start after hitting stump" Tags="|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32962" CreationDate="2016-07-17T03:16:34.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is controlled via cable (drive by cable) directly from the gas pedal, then there is no difference if you were to open the throttle by hand and open the throttle plates. In fuel injected cars of this type, there is usually a throttle position sensor which tells the computer how far the plates are open and adjusts the other engine components accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat I'll give you though, is that most vehicles today are drive by wire, meaning, there is a rheostat attached to the gas pedal which interprets your intent as to how fast the engine should be going. This signal is fed into the ECU, which in turn opens the throttle plates and adjusts the engine accordingly. This doesn't mean the throttle plates operate &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; as you push or release the pedal. Since it's controlled by the ECU, the ECU decides when and how far the throttle should open or close. The throttle usually does follow pretty much what you are telling the gas pedal, but that doesn't mean it does it exactly. The other thing about it is, with drive by wire systems, there's nothing to turn or grab hold of with the throttle plates. There's a motor which turns the plates and is self contained. You cannot poke your head under the hood, grab hold of the throttle, and give it a whirl. It just isn't possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T03:16:34.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T07:09:16.860" Score="2" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 4wd Ford Courier 2005, I cant engage into 4 high gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19859" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T11:54:25.183" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T11:54:25.183" Title="Ford Courier 2005, Cant engage 4wd high gear" Tags="|ford|4wd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T09:12:08.047" Score="3" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading in &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1850104794&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Haynes Automotive Body Repair &amp;amp; Painting Manual ( 1989 )&lt;/a&gt; that after polishing, you can put a sealant on before you wax in order to give better, longer lasting protection to the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when looking at sealants &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_shipping_option-_0?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;amp;rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Acar%20paint%20sealant%20-polish%2Cp_n_shipping_option-bin%3A3242350011&amp;amp;keywords=car%20paint%20sealant%20-polish&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1468745193&amp;amp;rnid=2944662011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from a variety of manufacturers&lt;/a&gt; like Chemical Guys, Wolfgang, McGuiar's, etc... I get the impression that they are meant to be used &lt;em&gt;in place of&lt;/em&gt; wax and not as an additional layer in between the clear coat and wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is correct?  Has the technology and practice simply changed since the book was published in '89?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T09:12:08.047" Title="Sealant plus wax, or just sealant?" Tags="|paint|detailing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T10:47:56.817" Score="12" ViewCount="79656" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car battery drained itself after a week of not being used. I was researching how to identify the cause, and saw a comment &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain&quot;&gt;under this article&lt;/a&gt; saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if I am not detecting a reading but the battery still drains?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You could have a fuse that is draining your battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Not Helpful &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt;] [Helpful &lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like my situation - there's not much drain, but I've had heaps of problems with the fuses (a previous owner &quot;fixed&quot; blown fuses by wrapping copper wire around them, which in one case fell apart inside the fuse box... ugh!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't understand how a fuse could cause drain like this, or, if I can't measure such drain the normal way, how I could identify that this is the problem and how I could fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone elaborate? What you do if you had a car (97 Toyota RAV4) with no draining electrics, a relatively new battery (six months), high temperature all year, seemed to have a normal level of amp draw when off, but a historically dodgy fusebox and a self-draining battery? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T16:40:48.090" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T01:14:43.053" Title="How can a fuse drain a car battery?" Tags="|electrical|battery|troubleshooting|fuse|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32971" CreationDate="2016-07-17T11:07:08.593" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't be the fuse which is causing the power drain, but the circuit the fuse is there to protect. (This is the reason why the copied area you have posted has 5 &quot;Not Helpful&quot; votes against it.) The fuse is only a conduit. It transmits electricity. When the circuit transmits too much electricity, the fuse heats up, then &quot;pops&quot;, not allowing anymore electricity to flow. The fuse in and of itself cannot be the cause of the power drain. It is, however, an indication of where the power drain is coming from. If by pulling the fuse you get a noticeable drop in battery drain, whatever is causing the drain is on that circuit. It will help you narrow down what exactly is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While batteries do lose power over the long term by just sitting, it should only lose about 5% of its reserve per month ... which in the grand scheme of things isn't a lot. Find the circuit which has the power drain on it, then find what's on that circuit to kill the aggressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/91/4152&quot;&gt;This post may be of further assistance to you.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:17:40.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32971" CreationDate="2016-07-17T11:12:22.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can drain your battery is Alarm system, Radio (memory), Remote control key (radio signal receiver), ECU, Clock... Can't imagine anything else. Even if you have all of this, they shouldn't drain a battery in one week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only thing you can do is to get a Ampere Meter and stick it in that faulty fuse to see what it drains. The fuse can not drain anything, it must be the wires or the device that the fuse is for. Find out what the fuse is for and let us know please..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T11:12:22.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32965" CreationDate="2016-07-17T11:23:41.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the plug out, and crank it in a &quot;Rabbit&quot; mode. I mean full throttle. When you get tired, get the plug in again and try to start then without priming. If won't start with 4-5 pulls, try to prime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can check is the wire that stops the engine when you release the handle. On a run mode the wire should not touch anything. On stop mode (released handle) it should be touching the earth (engine block through a stop mechanism).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't hear any hitting sound while trying to start, or low compression, it should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T11:23:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32971" CreationDate="2016-07-17T13:00:45.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention, &quot;no draining electrics,&quot; can you say more about how you determined this? It's important because &quot;a self-draining battery&quot; requires &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; that is causing a load on the battery – especially since you have a relatively new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On newer cars, there is a risk that disconnecting the battery may cause problems with your radio or other on-board electronics. Your car is old enough that I wouldn't be too worried about that. So the first thing that I would do is to measure the drain of the whole car by disconnecting the ground terminal from the battery and then measuring the total drain with an ammeter between the ground (negative) terminal on the battery and the cable you disconnected. The drain should be a few tens of milliamps at most. Much more than 50 mA and you should start looking for drains in the electrical system. You can do this by pulling each fuse in turn – the one that causes the load to drop is the culprit, keep going until you are down under 50 mA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to check that could cause a battery to drain, even when you don't see obvious loads after checking with the fuses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the battery getting charged fully.&lt;/strong&gt; With the engine off the battery should be 12.6 V or even a bit more. With the engine running the voltage should be higher – maybe not much higher at idle, but if you bring the engine up to a normal cruise RPM, say 2,000 or so, you should see something between 13.5 V to 14.5 V (a bit more or less isn't necessarily a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the top of the battery clean?&lt;/strong&gt; Dirt, especially damp, conductive road dirt can drain a battery without an obvious load. To test for this all you need to do is to clean well around one terminal – you just need to break the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the car have a history of leaks or other water damage?&lt;/strong&gt; Water usually contains dissolved minerals so leaks around fuse blocks or relay panels may create high-resistance shorts that won't blow a fuse but that will add a small drain. If the water deposits are &quot;before&quot; the fuses you won't see a problem if you check for drains by substituting a meter for each fuse in turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T13:00:45.003" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32965" CreationDate="2016-07-17T15:58:30.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With lawn mowers it's not uncommon to shear the flywheel key when hitting something with the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft in a lawn mower sites vertically. At the bottom there is the blade. At the top there is a flywheel. The flywheel serves two purposes. The first is that it's big and heavy allowing it to store kinetic energy so that the lawn mower can continue to spin through the 3 unpowered strokes. The second is that the flywheel has magnets embedded in it. The magnet is used for the ignition, sparking the plug when the magnets wiss by the ignition coil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of the crank at the top of the mower is tapered and has key. The key is usually aluminum. The flywheel sits on the taper and is aligned with the key, With a big nut holding everything tight together. The key is aluminum so that when enough stress is applied it will shear. This is to protect the crank shaft and flywheel from damage. If the key was hard enough not to shear it could crack the crank shaft or the flywheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom is that the engine will not start after hitting something with the blade. This is because when the key shears the alignment of the flywheel is no longer correct with the crank shaft. Because of the misalignment the ignition no longer sparks at the correct time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repair, remove the flywheel (not that easy to do), remove and replace the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T15:58:30.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33033" CreationDate="2016-07-17T17:15:42.350" Score="4" ViewCount="1779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put 7281 Kms on the bike so far and recently I've encountered a problem. While upshifting using the clutch, the bike makes a squeaking sound. The sound appears when I release the clutch. This problem has only apeared recently and does not apear if I use the quickshifter nor during downshifts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this caused by a fault in the gearbox or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could this cause long term damage or worse, an accident?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to remedy this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike in question: MV Agusta Brutale 675 MY 2014&#xA;Ussage: Primarily sport riding (cornering) and occasional commuting (rarely)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17321" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T18:40:02.853" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T18:40:02.853" Title="Bike making squeaking sound while upshifting" Tags="|motorcycle|transmission|shifting|noise|mv-agusta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32958" CreationDate="2016-07-17T17:21:10.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parking pawl is designed to shear; that piece might be floating around and causing trouble.    The parking pawl system is also designed to ratchet until the output drum external teeth slow enough to engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's not good practice to shift into park while moving, I am not ready to &lt;em&gt;doomspeak&lt;/em&gt; your transmission as &lt;em&gt;blown&lt;/em&gt;, or even needing an overhaul.  Honest focused repair, yes.  Complete overhaul or replacement?  No way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that in your haste to get it into park, the manual valve or more importantly the selector levers/linkage are bent or out of adjustment so that the &quot;gears&quot; are no longer aligned with the shifter detents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unfortunately transmission repair is quite specialized, and is liable to be expensive regardless of the extent of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T17:21:10.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32980" CreationDate="2016-07-17T17:59:23.640" Score="6" ViewCount="11170" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name and part number for this item protecting the undercarriage of the car on the 2013 Honda Civic EX (9th generation). It mounts under the car, and the conceals the compartment with the oil filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fr1wq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fr1wq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large engine splash shield&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="999" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T20:08:29.400" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T03:40:33.303" Title="What is the name and part number for the large splash-shield item under the engine?" Tags="|honda|civic|part-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32979" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:21:14.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That part is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsguys.com/honda/civic-coupe/74110tr3a20/2013-year/ex-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/interior-bumper-cat/under-cover-scat/?part_name=cover-assy-engine-lower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;lower engine cover assembly&quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VV70U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VV70U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honda part number 74110-TR3-A20. The insert plates there are also available separately, the large part only seems to come as a full assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsguys.com/honda/civic-coupe/74114tr0a00/2013-year/ex-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/interior-bumper-cat/under-cover-scat/?part_name=plate-fr-engine-cover-lower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lower front engine cover P/N 74114-TR0-A00&lt;/a&gt; (not in your picture, it's the more angular insert)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsguys.com/honda/civic-coupe/74115tr3a20/2013-year/ex-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/interior-bumper-cat/under-cover-scat/?part_name=plate-rr-engine-cover-lower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lower rear engine cover P/N 74115-TR3-A20&lt;/a&gt; (the rounded metal insert plate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T18:26:58.727" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T18:26:58.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:34:54.563" Score="6" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever successfully repair &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/32979/999&quot;&gt;this part&lt;/a&gt; with epoxy, or a heat gun (melting the plastic) or anything that lasts? Mine is pretty screwed up, but it seems like a relatively insignificant part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this part is also called colloquially &lt;em&gt;skid plate&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;belly cover&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;splash guard&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;wind plate&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some more pictures of it all broken:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnoPQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnoPQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tears&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeCa7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeCa7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken tabs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXtFR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXtFR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;more tears&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T19:45:46.857" Title="Is it possible to repair the lower engine cover assembly?" Tags="|repair|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:43:30.413" Score="5" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;While driving on the highway my van stalled. Once on the side of the road, I tried to restart and no joy.  All indicators and lights came on but when I turned the key nothing happened. I jiggled he key and checked the transmission was in park. Once the vehicle was towed and arrived at the shop it started fine. No codes or indications of anything wrong.  Since then it has done it twice more, but started right away. Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19861" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T19:00:53.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T01:23:36.693" Title="04 Mercury Montery stalling while driving" Tags="|engine|electrical|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32982" CreationDate="2016-07-17T18:59:34.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds to me like an ignition switch that is failing. Do you have a lot of keys that share the same keyring as the key for the ignition? You might start by removing as much weight as you can from the keyring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a heavy key ring, and that doesn't reliably fix it, then look into the cost of a new ignition switch. Intermittent problems like this can be very hard to diagnose and a car that randomly stalls can be quite dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32984/what-can-cause-a-gasoline-engine-to-suddenly-stop-non-catastrophically&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; – inspired by your question – to see if any of them might fit your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:43:57.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T19:18:17.493" Score="8" ViewCount="2979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32982/04-mercury-montery-stalling-while-driving?noredirect=1#comment54496_32982&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and found myself wondering what could cause a gasoline engine to suddenly stop, and then be restartable? So not things like running out of fuel, or suffering a timing belt failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that I've been able to come up with is an intermittent ignition glitch (say a failing ignition switch) or something that would cause the ECU to shutdown fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be interesting to distinguish between the problems that could/should set a code and the ones that won't or can't. For example an ECU initiated shutdown, say on overheating, could (and arguably should) set a code, but a faulty ignition switch is probably indistinguishable from turning the switch off and that would be hard to diagnose (except heuristically, for example when the ignition cuts out at 60 MPH in gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T21:06:27.530" Title="What can cause a gasoline engine to suddenly &amp; mysteriously stop (non-catastrophically)" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32971" CreationDate="2016-07-17T19:23:56.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace those fuses by proper ones, they are inexpensive. Then test your car to make sure everything still works, then inspect the fuses again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some aftermarket remote starters will drain your battery very quickly. My dad's 96 Toyota Corolla had this issue, it stopped when we disconnected the remote starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test your alternator, make sure your battery is getting fully charged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean your battery terminals and inspect your battery cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:23:56.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32984" CreationDate="2016-07-17T19:27:41.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical trouble tripping the autoshutdown relay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overheating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose electrical connection at either fuel pump, ignition switch or spark plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:27:41.290" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32984" CreationDate="2016-07-17T19:41:12.507" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &lt;em&gt;external&lt;/em&gt; cause: if there is too less oxygen in the intake air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can intentionally be accomplished by using a CO2-fire-extinguisher (a fire-fighter technique).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is also possible if the car takes in too much exhaust gases from the car/truck in front of him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:41:12.507" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2016-07-17T20:14:03.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Optimate is probably looking for a decrease in charging current to trigger the transition to maintenance mode. A battery in good condition should start accepting less current as it nears a fully charged state. It sounds like this wasn't happening with your battery. It may be that the battery is nearing the end of its life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T20:14:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32984" CreationDate="2016-07-17T20:14:47.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I can think of, in my limited knowledge. Overlaps with some existing answers. Trying to limit to things that aren't obvious, also trying to think of direct physical causes rather than things that may or may not trigger certain ECU software to make an explicit shutdown decision (I assume there's a lot of variation here, so it's kinda hard to cover all cars, plus that's more of a symptom than a cause):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty ignition switch / loose wiring.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose/failing power input to ignition coil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical faults (short / open) in ignition coil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose/failing ignition wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing distributor cap / rotor&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; (maybe? do they have transient failure modes?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty crankshaft position sensor / loose wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enough loose/failing spark plug wires that misfires lead to stalling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fouled or faulty spark plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clogged fuel filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty fuel pressure regulator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel pump power issue (ranging from wiring to perhaps a loose or semi-blown fuse).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32984/what-can-cause-a-gasoline-engine-to-suddenly-mysteriously-stop-non-catastroph/32989?noredirect=1#comment54528_32989&quot;&gt;Fuel pump overheating&lt;/a&gt; (perhaps due to e.g. failing bearings, failing pump, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel injector faulty wiring (in systems with EFI).&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any conditions leading to momentarily improper fuel trim, e.g.:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MAP/MAF sensor failure or faulty wiring leading to momentarily improper fuel trim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other faulty sensors (TPS, O2, thermostat esp. when engine cold, etc.) / faulty sensor wiring leading to the same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leak in intake downstream of MAF sensor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failed or failing ECU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Idle air control valve faulty wiring.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Defective speed sensor (leading to failure to idle when vehicle stopped).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obstruction in intake (perhaps it shuts down at high rpms but you can still start it, or the obstruction moves around or clears itself). Perhaps as simple as a dirty air filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obstruction in exhaust, e.g. back pressure from a clogged or failing catalytic converter that clears when the engine stops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty EGR valve wiring.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant leaks, air in coolant lines can throw off the ECT sensor causing the engine to behave poorly and possibly stall (source is personal experience).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In cars with smaller engines, or cars that are having other problems and running on the border anyways, anything that puts an unexpected load on the engine esp. when it is idling (e.g. too much electrical load + a possibly inadequate/failing alternator, power steering issues if stalled while turning, things like that).&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also wiring faults leading to e.g. the ECU failing to notice that the A/C has been turned on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm sure fuel quality issues / impurities that get past the fuel filter must be on this list somewhere but I don't know specifics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In automatics: Low automatic transmission fluid (causing excess engine load from torque converter at low driving speeds) or failing torque converter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In carbureted engines:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stuck or poorly adjusted automatic choke&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stuck heat riser valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water in various components e.g. driving through a large puddle (may count as &quot;obvious&quot; though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ufodigest.com/article/did-invisible-ufo-cause-car-stall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aliens&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some vehicle-specific issues, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty ASD relay (causing random shutdowns, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;esp. older Chryslers&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faulty PCV valve (cold weather issue with 2003-2004 Ford Focus)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECU bugs, solvable with firmware updates, for example:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; also raises the possibility that on some vehicles &quot;the factory [ECU] programming may not provide enough idle speed when the A/C is on, when the alternator is under high load or when the temperature is extremely hot or cold.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001-2003 Ford Escape idle / emissions calibration problems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is currently investigating reports of sudden stalling with Toyota Prius hybrid electric cars. For reasons which have yet to be explained, the engine will suddenly shut down at speeds of 35 to 65 mph. In some cases the vehicle can still be driven in the electric mode, but in others everything goes dead and the car has to be towed. No word yet from Toyota of the cause, but it will probably turn out to be a PCM programming issue.&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all of the &quot;faulty wiring&quot; things above, the fault could be in a number of locations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connectors at the components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiring near the components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buried in the wiring harness or connectors elsewhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuse boxes, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also electrical contact failure in the component itself, even though this may not commonly count as &quot;wiring&quot;. I'd probably call that a &quot;failed component&quot; rather than &quot;faulty wiring&quot;, myself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above lists, general internet consensus seems to identify the most common causes of intermittent stalling as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum leaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intake leaks / obstructions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel obstructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uh... I'm sure there's more, I'm trying to work this out in my head from what I know about engines. I know nothing about diesel. I also know nothing about carbureted fuel systems, or turbo/super charged engines (although you could lump those in with intake issues, I guess), mechanical fuel injection, or hybrid cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've excluded most overheat related issues since things just get weird, any number of strange things could start to happen (e.g. sensors malfunctioning out of their temperature spec, etc.) that clear when it is cool again - I feel like that list could be infinite; plus I'm counting overheating as &quot;obvious&quot; or at least &quot;visible&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; More likely wiring or electrical faults, as mechanical failure of these components &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32984/what-can-cause-a-gasoline-engine-to-suddenly-mysteriously-stop-non-catastroph#comment54528_32989&quot;&gt;unlikely to be transient&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T21:06:27.530" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T23:01:55.237" Score="3" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2005 4-cylinder 2.5s Nissan Altima has been having major issues for the past several months. My mechanic replaced the catalytic converter and a month later another mechanic said that the catalytic converter is completely disintegrated. Apparently the initial problem was with the ignition coils and that has been causing the problems with the catalytic converter. How are these two related? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19864" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:40:48.390" Title="Nissan Altima catalytic converter ruined twice in one month" Tags="|engine|nissan|catalytic-converter|altima|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T23:12:13.823" Score="4" ViewCount="44327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had issues with ABS light for around a year where the light occasionally comes on and off. However, the brake pedal has been misbehaving only in the last two weeks and I am getting really concerned about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The braking issue according to my observations which may or may not be 100% accurate happens, only when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The orange ABS light has not yet lightened up in dashboard;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am driving at low speeds (5-10 mph);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I turn steering wheel and apply brakes at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the brake pedal &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; is pulsing and the braking distance seems to increase quite dramatically. Then the ABS light turns on and brakes work normally for the rest of the time. It is not easy to reproduce this issue. On average it happens once every two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the pulsing brake pedal necessarily an ABS issue?&lt;/strong&gt; I have been reading that ABS should not engage at low speeds, so it makes me think it may be something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I temporarily disable ABS to prove or disprove that this is ABS issue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is Chevrolet Aveo 2007 sedan. The roads are dry hence ABS should not engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update#1: now also the red &quot;brake&quot; light occasionally turns on while driving even though parking brake is disengaged. Though the car seems to operate as before.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17145" LastEditorUserId="17145" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T16:06:43.973" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T10:25:00.570" Title="Brake pedal is pulsing when I apply brakes? Is it caused by ABS?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|abs|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33004" CreationDate="2016-07-18T00:44:06.370" Score="4" ViewCount="7604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to clean the engine bay of my 2002 Ford Focus SE, which is really grimy thanks to years of neglect, and a valve cover gasket leak that I recently fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMBMS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMBMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of dirty ford focus engine bay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been reading about how to clean engines properly, but am seeing some conflicting info. Some people are just spraying degreaser, and then using a brush and garden hose to clean. Others say that it's super important to cover all electrical components with plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Which engine components besides the alternator, electrical connections, and battery do I need to protect from water? Are there any mechanical components that need to be protected or plugged off? I was just going to duct tape some plastic grocery bags around things to keep them dry. Does that sound adequate or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How long should I let it dry before driving it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Any other tips for cleaning that will minimize the risk of damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T07:09:55.320" Title="Safely washing engine bay of Ford Focus" Tags="|engine|cleaning|focus|detailing|degreaser|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32982" CreationDate="2016-07-18T01:23:36.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time, I had a car that did this. Over and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The connector for the wiring harness that ran the fuel pump worked loose. The car stopped. The bouncing involved in towing the car to the shop jostled it back into place. The car worked. We eventually diagnosed it by driving it over a street with potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14870" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T01:23:36.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T02:19:52.533" Score="1" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;how to install software on Toyota HDD Navigation (NHDN-W56g) after I've changed HDD? should I purchase it or can I dowload it and install using usb memory stick? thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19870" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T02:19:52.533" Title="install software after HDD changed" Tags="|toyota|maintenance|audio|navigation|software|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40028" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:01:29.940" Score="3" ViewCount="13498" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I check/replace now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already replaced a set of gaskets in the oil cooler. It did no help.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQzA3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQzA3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oil cooler Z18-XER&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouPkJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouPkJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Set of gaskets&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Z18-XER. Year - 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing else happening. No white smoke, no external oil leaking, no external coolant leaking. No unusual sound,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12303" LastEditorUserId="12303" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T04:55:47.173" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T09:58:09.357" Title="Astra H Oil found in coolant" Tags="|coolant|opel|vauxhall|astra|holden|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32999" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:12:07.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil in coolant most often comes from a leaking head gasket. You may want to perform a compression leak-down test to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:12:07.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:27:07.710" Score="4" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased a restored 1971 chevelle ss. They did an excellent job. I just noticed that the reverse lights are always on and assume it something with the switch. Where might I look for the switch. It has a 350 automatic with a center consile three speed shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19871" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T13:21:44.970" Title="Electrical reverse lights stay on" Tags="|electrical|transmission|wiring|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:28:25.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is due to a warped rotor. The pulsing will be due to raised areas on the rotor pushing back against the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:28:25.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:35:18.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pedal pulsing is most likely ABS engaging. To disable ABS, remove the fuse for it in the fuse box that is under the hood. Do have a shop look at your ABS system if the light has been coming on. Erratic brakes are not something you would want.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xKSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xKSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:35:18.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32995" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:37:02.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My view on cleaning engines is that they are probably designed to get wet. At least wet in reasonable ways – rain while the hood is open, splashes from puddles, water that makes it through the radiator and around the edges of the hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pull apart the electrical connectors on most (i.e., the ones that I work on :-) cars you'll see that some care has been taken to weatherproof many of the connectors. I take this as evidence for my belief that cars and engines expect to get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the strength of that I've been washing the engine compartments of my cars for 40+ years. Here's what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray or brush a degreaser (I'm in the US and my current favorite is one called Purple Power, but I'm sure there are plenty of others that are just as good. I know folks who swear by Simple Green) on a warmish (sitting for a few hours) engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it sit for a bit (10 minutes if I'm not in a rush). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash it off with a hose on a gentle spray – in my experience it doesn't take much to rinse most of the gunk off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I go for a drive to drying it off (if I can), some days the drive doesn't fit in…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm hosing the engine off I try to avoid spraying directly into electrical components, belts, and bearings. I'm pretty concerned that a high pressure water stream could find its way past the seals of a bearing since the stream of water is kind of &quot;unnatural&quot; from the point of view of an engine. Belts I just figure I don't want to have left over grease or oil on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I really can't say I've had any problems either short-term or long-term from doing this and a clean engine bay makes it much easier to notice and fix problems. Not to mention more pleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in a salty environment it is probably a good thing for the engine bay (and the rest of the car) to get washed from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:37:02.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2016-07-18T03:49:33.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your car. In many cases you may be fine – certainly if you've caught it and aren't seeing problems there is a good chance that you're OK or will only have relatively minor problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said the folks who designed your car put a lot of thought into questions like &quot;how much oil does it need?&quot; and to be safe it would make sense to drain out the extra. Sucking it out through the dip stick tube may be the easiest way to do it if you have access to a vacuum extractor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a case in point where only a little extra oil can be a problem, VW Mk4 (1999-2003) cars with the ALH TDI diesel engine warn explicitly about putting in any amount of oil above the full mark due to potential catalytic converter damage (not fatal, but a few hundred dollars (US)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:49:33.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32962" CreationDate="2016-07-18T04:10:35.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;It depends&quot;. Paulster explained the most common caveats of drive by wire throttles, but my car is quite a bit different than that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early 2000's, BMW introduced a variable valve lift system they called Valvetronic. That system almost eliminates the throttle plate altogether, favoring an open throttle and controlling power output by varying cam timing and lift. The ECU translates the throttle pedal position into adjustments in all those controls to make it behave the way the driver would expect a traditional throttle to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the complex interactions occurring in a system developed in the early 2000's, when drive by wire was still relatively new, I can only imagine the engine management in modern vehicles is even more complicated. If you manipulate the throttle plate manually on a modern vehicle, expect unpredictable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:10:35.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2016-07-18T04:18:06.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;VW (in the Bentley service manual) says that only one of the rear fog lights is used (depending, I would think on the side of the road where the car is driven).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale that I've seen for this is that the rear fog needs to be distinct from a brake light, otherwise it may just cause confusion. Since rear fogs are rare in the US, they probably just cause confusion anyway, but hopefully a bit less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:18:06.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33015" CreationDate="2016-07-18T04:27:15.290" Score="1" ViewCount="4095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you please let me know which engine is good on fuel (EFI vs VTec) and also what is good for performance ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main differences and Advantages ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T09:36:29.567" Title="EFI vs VTec Engine Types" Tags="|honda|vtec|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2016-07-18T05:22:41.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be a defective strut or shock absorber. I am having the exact same issue myself presently. When a strut is empty of fluid and gas there is no dampening effect and you are bouncing on your springs. This effect is also noticed when braking at low speeds as well as when turning. When braking with dead struts your tires have intermittent contact with road and your ABS tries to compensate. I will having the front struts changed in a few hours time and will get back to you and tell you if the problem is remedied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Good news, Struts are changed and it appears that that issue I had finally solved. Now my problem is relearning how to drive without having to constantly compensate and bouncing all over hell's half acre. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T15:36:04.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:36:04.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33009" CreationDate="2016-07-18T05:56:16.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand your abbreviations, when you say EFI you mean &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_injection_basics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electronic Fuel Injection&lt;/a&gt;?  I would say pretty much every car made in that last 25 years uses EFI, as opposed to the older technology of carburettors.  This does provide better fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda's VTEC&lt;/a&gt; also helps improve economy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;VTEC (Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) is a system developed by Honda to improve the volumetric efficiency of a four-stroke internal combustion engine (i.e. improved economy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not really anything to compare and contrast, as they are complimentary technologies; it's not like it's an either / or situation.  In fact, I'm pretty sure that every car that has VTEC also uses EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T05:56:16.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T06:37:50.603" Score="2" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an 1989 Honda TR350 4x4 with possibly a blown rod bearing/scratched piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quad itself&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9hyRa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9hyRa.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove the engine, I have almost everything disconnected but the mounts and the output shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvNVZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zvNVZ.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see the forward drive shaft attach point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.imgur.com/8zFXc2p.jpg (sorry, can't paste more than 2 links)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see the rearward drive shaft attach point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.imgur.com/5vx64YU.jpg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I disconnect these ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched this video &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_WQSVeO7bI &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I least I know NOT to unbolt the output angle drive/transfert case as this will collapse the gears in the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice welcomed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19874" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T06:37:50.603" Title="Honda ATV TRX350 4x4 '89engine remove, how to disconnect from drive shafts?" Tags="|honda|atv|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T06:56:25.210" Score="8" ViewCount="10446" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Kia Pregio Diesel Van just purchased 1 week ago. Owner claimed no problems. Just did an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday when I turned the key to start, the starter motor did not engage. No sound, I just hear one faint click as soon as I turn the key, then engine dash lights turn off, but nothing happens. After roughly 5 attempts the, 5th time engine started with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today the same thing happened, although on the 4th attempt, the starter motor made a weak attempt to turn the motor over, acting like it did not have enough battery. After that it started without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it is the starter solenoid is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for answers! OK so one said to check some things and edit/update this post, here it is: In the last week this problem did not arise, until today the car would not start over perhaps 50 turns of the ignition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I uploaded a video to show what happens: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/K1vBdoX2D50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/K1vBdoX2D50&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the squeeking sound is from depressing the clutch, not anything with the starter. When I turn the key, you can faintly hear a click from somewhere in the engine compartment, but nothing else happens. After 50 tries, it started without problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the battery connections and voltage, both OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also checked all the fuses. All looked OK, but many fuse spots in the cabin fuse box have no fuse in them, I am trying to track down if I am perhaps missing a fuse altogether? But I don't believe this would cause an intermittant problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears it is some wiring connection, somehow is not sending current to the starter motor. I don't know, where should I look next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19875" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T11:12:13.040" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T11:12:13.040" Title="Starter Motor Intermittently will not engage" Tags="|engine|starter|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33009" CreationDate="2016-07-18T08:02:29.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot compare EFI with V-TEC both are totally different technologies doing totally different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EFI means and I am assuming Electronic Fuel Injection. As the name suggests , it helps in injecting fuel to the cylinder through electronically controlled injectors without the use of carburetors. This massively helps fuel efficiency over the carb version of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vtec on the other hand is Honda's way of implementing Variable Valve timing(almost) , it basically uses two camshaft profiles and an actuator to determine which type of valve life and duration change is necessary for which particular moment. So meaning it gives the engine two camshafts, below a set RPM say 4500 you will have a economy mode with normal fuel saving everyday camshaft, above that set RPM the performance camshaft profile will kick in giving you more power to perform overtaking and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you see there is No way these two totally different technologies can be compared to determine fuel efficiency or anything for that matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T09:36:29.567" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T09:36:29.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26768" CreationDate="2016-07-18T08:44:14.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not possible to prepare a Virago 535 so that both short and tall riders can ride it &lt;strong&gt;comfortably&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After investigating a lot into this issue, and even after trying a few other motorcycles, I concluded that it's not possible to prepare the small Virago so that both me and my wife can ride it comfortably. The size and ergonomics of the motorbike are perfect for a short person, and even if I could get it more comfortable for me, it would become less comfortable for my wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I considered switching handlebars, then seats and after a while I was looking at suspension and how to alter the motorbike's geometry (although I was definitely not going to do that). I realized that there was nothing I can do make the bike great for both of us. Every little thing I changed to make the motorbike more comfortable for me, it would make it less comfortable for my wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried different bikes to see what we could manage (Dragstar/V-star, Vulcan, Intruder, Shadow, ...). All bikes were larger so they were better for me, but they would be too large for my wife. In some of them, she couldn't even reach the foot controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bike we could actually manage to drive was the 883, but still not perfect to both (as expected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a new motorbike for me (Volusia) which is a bit too large for my wife to drive, but she keeps the Virago and we're both happy. In the end, I guess that if two people are too different physically, they will need to have two different motorbikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T08:44:14.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32927" CreationDate="2016-07-18T10:02:26.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to find a noise is a stethoscope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ticking, I would listen in the valve covers to see if it is lifters.  Since you mentioned a pft sound and exhaust smell also, you should check your exhaust manifold gaskets.  If you do not find anything there, work your way down the exhaust system and look for leaks.  Be sure to check all around junctions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T10:02:26.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:35:14.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your TDI is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unit_injector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PD type&lt;/a&gt; then you're better off erring on the short/fast side. There were many cases of prematurely worn out cams on PDs due to oil.&#xA;This means sticking to the oil norm and change interval specified by VW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the engine is a non-PD TDI (such as ALH, AFN etc.) then you could try using oil analyzer (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lubricheck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lubricheck&lt;/a&gt;) in order to determine the level of oil wearing. This can be done at the end of the usage cycle or even during use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in my common rail TDI I used to change the oil at 15.000 km but upon analyzing the oil quality I am going to bump this up to 20.000 km (90% city driving but at unusual hours - almost no stop-and-go traffic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a TDI, in general, its advisable to not cut costs on oil and fuel. Use the best that you can find, it's better and, in the long run, it's cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T11:35:14.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33022" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:42:24.493" Score="4" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a track racing motorcycle with a lithium battery, the battery has gone flat on two separate occasions as a result of standing for a period of time. The first time the bike was standing for about 3-4 months and the battery had gone completely dead and the second time, the bike was standing for less than a month and the battery could still turn on the clocks but the engine wouldn't start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, a lithium battery should be able to hold a good charge for much longer without going flat, so I suspect there is a parasitic drain somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, how would I test if there is a parasitic drain and secondly how would I find the cause of the of the parasitic drain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Willem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6454" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T12:03:07.867" Title="Motorcycle Lithium Battery - Potential Parasitic Drain" Tags="|motorcycle|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:48:14.493" Score="3" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this strange problem on my &lt;em&gt;1999 Volvo V40 1.9T T4&lt;/em&gt; (B4194T engine, no VVT, ~150k miles), I'll try to provide a detailed description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; when the engine is warm, whenever I drive at some RPM and release the throttle along with pushing in the clutch to get the engine to idle, often the RPM quickly drops down and below it's normal idle of 750 rpm and then jumps a bit and recovers to the normal value. The other times it drops more slowly and smoothly and there is no dip. This actually caused the engine to die in a couple of occasions (days were hot, as far as I remember), but it's extremely rare. The dip in idle is accompanied by slight dimming in lights and a lower noise of fuel pump, which are probably caused by a drop in voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opening the hood and operating the throttle by hand I noticed that the engine pretty much always does this after revving and the dip in engine speed is always accompanied by knocking a few times. The number of knocks varies from day to day, sometimes it's a couple, sometimes it's closer to 10. After connecting a scan tool to check the ignition timing values I noticed that the knocks cause ignition timing advance value to go negative for a moment (~-10%), while usually they are kept positive. I assume this is what causes the revs to dip, as detonation is detected and timing is retarded (NOTE: I do not have enough experience in engine diagnostics to know whether this is normal or not, maybe all engines have their timing retarded when RPMs drop). So basically it goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I increase the throttle and hold it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM rises&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I release the throttle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM continuously falls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At around 1000-1500 RPM often an audible knock occurs a couple of times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the very same time negative ignition timing advance is observed for a brief moment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM keeps falling below normal idle of 750 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RPM recovers to normal idle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? What causes the engine to knock when decelerating? Any insight is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it clearer - here is a graph I obtained via OBDII of this phenomenon occurring. I pressed the throttle, held it a bit and released suddenly a few times. This was done in a standstill at normal operating temperature of 90 °C. You can see after every fall of engine speed there is a small oscillation where the speed dips below normal idle of 750 RPM, recovers a bit higher and settles. I assume the oscillation is the effect of the IAC valve working, but the dip is definitely not normal. You can actually hear the engine struggle a bit during each of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that it is much less likely to happen when I simply blip it, while longer throttling and higher RPM pronounces it. If I do a hard and long pull at full throttle while driving, the drop is significantly lower, almost reaching 500 RPM. It's also a bit different day to day. Some days there are many knocks and the dips happen much more often, other days it doesn't knock or knocks once or twice and the RPM dip doesn't occur (but I can still hear the fuel pump slow down and lights dim, for some reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF3ed.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tF3ed.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find a high resolution version of this graph by clicking &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i.cubeupload.com/IzTclZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HERE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="10905" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T11:06:57.477" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T14:38:54.460" Title="Engine knocks and engine speed falls below idle upon releasing the throttle" Tags="|volvo|idle|rpm|knock|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33001" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:49:45.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be a switch the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and reverse switch located at the shifter in the center console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T11:49:45.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33019" CreationDate="2016-07-18T12:03:07.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like with a car.  Remove the negative battery cable.  Get your multimeter, set it to DCA (DC Amps).  Use 10A mode if its available.  Connect it between the negative post and the cable.  Reading should be &amp;lt; 50ma.  If its over this, start pulling fuses until you see what makes it drop.  When you find what is causing the draw, find out why it is not shutting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T12:03:07.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33108" CreationDate="2016-07-18T12:48:45.920" Score="5" ViewCount="55631" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are tightened to the hub (&lt;strong&gt;on the passenger side only!&lt;/strong&gt;), the new rotor binds against the bottom of the bracket on the outside (away from the center of the vehicle) and the wheel cannot rotate freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vehicle is a 1999 Nissan Maxima and I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BZZPJK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Centric rotors&lt;/a&gt; (Amazon claims that these rotors fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXqk3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXqk3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake Caliper Mounting Assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is not from my vehicle, but the part is prominently displayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very odd thing is that the driver's side has no problem. I switched the rotor from the driver's side to the passenger's side and the problem persists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both new rotors are approximately 26mm thick; it appears that 3mm of rotor surface need to be removed for the part to fit on the passenger side. Minimum safe rotor thickness (per... the internet) is 20mm for the 99 Maxima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 3mm of braking surface turned off the new rotor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return the rotors to Amazon and &lt;em&gt;attempt&lt;/em&gt; to find thinner rotors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase a new, third party mounting bracket and see if it has a wider interior space?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could account for this difference of alignment in the bracket? Is this intentionally manufactured as such? Perhaps the bracket has been replaced in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.2carpros.com/images/articles/brakes/front_caliper/remove_brake_pads_holder.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor, pinned to the side of the bracket (bought a new bracket, no joy):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dReRL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dReRL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pinned Rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backside of the rotor (a little fuzzy) - note the clearance on the bottom:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLrag.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLrag.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rotor Backside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top of the rotor - no problems:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fK4o9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fK4o9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rotor / Bracket Top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;: I can only assume that something is wrong with the hub as the brand new rotor has a wobble in the spin when placed on the passenger side. The vehicle does not drive problematically at this time with the new pads / rotors installed and so I will leave it. If I follow up on this problem in the future I will add more to the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; As it turns out the hubs on my vehicle are press-fit into the knuckle. This means that either something skewed the hub during its lifetime or it was not pressed in correctly to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastEditorUserId="6756" LastEditDate="2017-03-12T13:03:06.613" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T07:59:43.810" Title="Front brake caliper mounting bracket out of alignment with rotor" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|brake-calipers|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2016-07-18T13:18:59.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has happened to me with a defective ABS sensor (front, passenger). I mistakenly gouged it while changing the wheel bearing which caused it to intermittently give false signals at lower speeds (ABS ring turning slowly = sensor misinterpreting it as stopped?). Typically faulty sensors will throw the ABS warning light, which mine eventually did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T13:18:59.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33066" CreationDate="2016-07-18T13:22:11.293" Score="3" ViewCount="3491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had thought this was virtually impossible. I have tried numerous times to lock the doors of my 2014 Honda Pilot while one door was open, It does not matter which door, if you use the key fob or the door lock button, the locks don't activate. Normally everyone is getting out and if you try unsuccessfully to lock the car, before the last door is closed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was at the lake, tossed my keys on the floor of the car (&lt;em&gt;so they would not get wet&lt;/em&gt;) pushed the lock button on the drivers door and closed the door, all in one nice fluid motion. As I looked at my keys laying on the floor as the door shut, I was think I am so glad this is Honda so I can't lock myself out.  But when I grabbed the handle to open the door, it was locked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a to recreate and have not been able to. If you push the lock button with the door open, it does not lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could this happen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:18:45.980" Title="How was I able to lock the keys in my 2014 Honda Pilot?" Tags="|honda|locks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T13:33:54.210" Score="5" ViewCount="1808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Honda Pilot.  It has two kinds of keys, one has buttons on the key itself the other does not have buttons, the one without buttons is a valet key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to the Honda dealer to get a spare valet key, they had to program it.  There are no obvious electronics. It looks like a metal key with a plastic cover over the handle (bow).  I have always assumed it was safe to submerge in water, so I use it when I go boating. But I got wondering if they have to program it does that mean it needs to stay dry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastEditorUserId="4694" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T17:45:26.193" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T18:07:16.313" Title="Can valet keys get wet?" Tags="|honda|key|environment|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:04:42.573" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;My jet boat is making a 'putting' noise when trying to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find all details regarding my boat here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29411/starting-a-2-stroke-jet-boat-after-several-years&quot;&gt;My Boat Info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise seems to happen in the mid-rpm range; 4,000 - 4,800 RPMS, below 4,000 it sounds fine and above 5,000 it stops ( this boat idles at 1,250 and shouldn't be run greater than 6,500 )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My father thinks the engine may be misfiring, but I think the issue may be cavitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is why I think it may be cavitation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My engine is directly below my steering column, but the noise seems to be coming from the back of the boat at the jet pump... I would think the sound would be coming directly from the engine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The impeller clearly has a few nicks... I intend to replace this regardless of the what the actual problem is. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way I can think to test this for sure is to run it on land... if I still get my 'putting' noise, it obviously isn't a cavitation issue. I have a flush kit installed already, but I haven't tried accelerating using it, can I safely get to 4,500 RPMs with my flush kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it turns out it isn't cavitation, how do determine the cause of the misfire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:04:42.573" Title="Jet Boat, Cavitation or Misfire?" Tags="|noise|misfire|two-stroke|boat|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:21:13.583" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the likely cause of engine oil in the coolant of a Pontiac Wave?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:21:13.583" Title="What is the likely cause of engine oil in the coolant on a 07 Pontiac Wave?" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-19T00:06:52.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33023" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:31:32.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've been sold the wrong rotors. Don't machine the new rotors, that would be considered damaging them, voiding the return. Don't buy an aftermarket caliper bracket, you will have the same problem, or the wrong part. Just buy the correct rotors. Return the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19881" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:31:32.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32984" CreationDate="2016-07-18T14:38:02.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this happen with a faulty after market immobilizer of the type which cuts power to the fuel pump to prevent theft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it was going bad and would occasionally not let the car start, or cut power to the fuel pump relay while driving.  Then the car would start back up fine, or start after X number of tries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnecting the immobilizer from the fuel pump relay solved the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T14:38:02.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33026" CreationDate="2016-07-18T15:08:29.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably has an RFID chip inside that's read by the car in order to deactivate the immobiliser. I wouldn't have thought it would be affected by water, but I'd not take it too deep... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from this and your other recent question that you are taking part in an activity that involves getting yourself wet, and you want to keep your keys dry? I'd suggest getting hold of a small waterproof container for the keys - a quick search online for &quot;waterproof key case&quot; brings up a variety of types designed for both keys and phones, and suitable for everything up to scuba diving...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:08:29.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24679" CreationDate="2016-07-18T15:23:17.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is strictly theoretical (aka I could be completely wrong), but if an engine is literally filled to the brim as you described, very little damage would occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of engine, once the starter is engaged the volume of the crankcase will remain fairly constant, as the volume lost by one piston moving down will be negated by another piston moving up. Once the engine reaches a certain speed, however, the oil will be too viscous to move within the crankcase (remember, the crankcase is &lt;strong&gt;completely filled&lt;/strong&gt; with oil). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since piston rings are designed to prevent the contents of the combustion chamber from making it into the crankcase (rather than vice versa), oil will begin to leak into the cylinders. It would not take long for the amount of oil in the cylinder to prevent the air/fuel mixture from firing, causing the engine to sputter and die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In certain cases you may have ruined the piston rings, fouled the spark plugs, or busted your oil seals (rear main seal, oil pan gasket, cam cover seal, etc) but I imagine if you drained the oil to the proper level and removed the pools of oil in the combustion chamber, the engine would &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; fire, burn off whatever oil was remaining in the chamber, and continuing running without any &lt;em&gt;catastrophic&lt;/em&gt; issues &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that incident though, you'd probably burn a quart of oil every two hundred miles until you forgot to top it off one day and, well, you know the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:23:17.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32977" CreationDate="2016-07-18T15:32:19.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I afraid you will have to take your clutch cover off. Check your oil level before draining an oil, then drain it, and take a clutch cover off. Before that make sure you have a new clutch cover gasket and new oil. Something wears out in there, and as a bike engine it has an engine, clutch, and a gearbox all in one case, lubes with same oil, and bike engine is very delicate thing, engine oil pump will grab gearbox and clutch debris before it stops in oil filter. If it's not the clutch disengage lever, might be any washer behind a clutch. If you're not sure, ask for assistance in garage. Don't leave like this. 7000 km in racing mode is quiet a lot, normally racing engine (developed and 100% racing use) should be maintained at least once in 30 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T15:32:19.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T15:44:31.410" Score="7" ViewCount="58962" Body="&lt;p&gt;2001 Honda Civic EX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First noticed this problem when I got the car about a year ago.  When the car is idling without the AC on, all is good.  When I turn the AC and the clutch engages, it begins to vibrate, shaking the car with it.  This used to be not so bad, but now that I've put about 15,000 more miles on it, it seems to be getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the motor mounts are getting worn out.  When I pop the hood with the AC on, you can see the engine visibly shake more than with the AC off.  It's subtle, but noticeable.  Anyone else have some advice on what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T17:25:37.100" Title="Why does my engine vibrate at idle only when I have the AC on?" Tags="|ac|rough-idle|vibration|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33034" CreationDate="2016-07-18T17:17:03.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine has no power at idle, it would be same as if you switch in gear and slowly release a clutch. Automatic idle control will try to keep it running, and it will vibrate. Some tiny 1L cars with AC needs to turn the AC off to get up the hill. It's a big load. If your idle revs are going lower with AC ON, then you can consider about checking the idle speed. Different cars have different idle speed, depends on a crankshaft and flywheel inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase your idle speed you just need to open a bonnet and grab a flat head screwdriver. Warm up your engine, find a throttle body, and screw in this screw maybe 1/4 of a turn. See how it sounds then. You might need to screw it even less than 1/4. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29mHe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29mHe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stole a pic from another web site, supposed to be your car model throttle body and screw location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice your worn engine mounts if your car is shaking you forward and backward, making you bang your head to steering wheel and headrest, just because you're slow and almost not touching a throttle pedal. But rediculously vibrating engine is a too high load at too low RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T17:25:37.100" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T17:25:37.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2016-07-18T18:10:15.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle weight:&lt;/strong&gt; The argument has been made that weight as little to no effect at constant speed, and that it true. However, vehicle weight will determine how much power will be needed to accelerate at a decent rate, and that will largely determine engine size. Generally speaking and all other things being equal, larger engines are more powerful while smaller engines are more efficient. Your 1st-gen Fiesta had a curb weight of 730 kg, while the 1st-gen Honda Fit you are comparing it to has a curb weight of 1091 kg, almost 50% more, while the Smart car has a curb weight of 940 kg, still 29% more. Because of crash safety tests and safety equipment, cars do tend to be heavier today, meaning they tend to have larger engines too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Engine size and efficiency:&lt;/strong&gt; as stated above, larger engines tend to be less efficient. Generally speaking, engines from the past 10 years tend to be more thermally efficient than previous engines, meaning they can extract more energy from the same amount of fuel. Before that (late 80's to late 90's), efficiency gains were mostly made from electronic fuel injection (as opposed to carburaters, like your 1st-gen Fiesta). How significant is this? Well, in 1991, Nissan's GA16DE (1.6 L) engine won a prize for fuel efficiency. In 2007, the Honda Fit came with a 1.5 L engine that had the same power as that Nissan engine but slightly better highway mileage (33 mpg vs 34 mpg), while the Smart car claims 39 mpg. Progress in engine technology will allow cars to have smaller engines, therefore even more efficient engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If manufacturers would make a car today that is as light as your 1st-gen Fiesta was, modern engines would undoubtedly produce better highway mileage than back then, probably 45 mpg, maybe even 50 mpg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T18:44:06.047" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:44:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T18:21:45.460" Score="3" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE, with 147,000 miles on it. At present, when sitting at idle with the transmission in park, neutral, or reverse, there is no noise, everything sounds normal. When the transmission is moved into any forward gear, there is a hissing sound that's very noticeable. I can't be sure from the sound if it's a sucking air, or blowing air sound, but I think it's a sucking air sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is a leak in vacuum lines going to the transmission, can I test for leaks in the same way you would for air blowing, I.E. soapy water sprayed on every vacuum line? It seems like this would not work as well since there's nothing to cause bubbling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that doesn't work, how would I find the leaking hose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it fit the symptoms listed above for this to be a vacuum line going to the transmission? Does it not make the sound in reverse because there is only one reverse gear (not multiple like forward gears) and so vacuum is not used? Somehow this didn't make sense to me because the vacuum would still be present as it's generated by the engine, so the hose should still leak. Any thoughts on why only in forward gears and not in reverse?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I did a spill and fill about 20,000 miles ago, and I watch the color and level of the ATF every time I put gas in it. The color is still bright red, and there is no burnt smell at all. Sadly it's a 2000 so there is no PID for transmission fluid temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what this could be are appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:27:21.697" Title="Testing and diagnosis for hissing sound only in forward gears 2000 Toyota Camry-LE" Tags="|toyota|transmission|automatic-transmission|camry|vacuum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33014" CreationDate="2016-07-18T20:09:39.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly a bad battery connection or positive connection at the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13409" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T20:09:39.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T20:47:18.080" Score="5" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Focus. 87 unleaded has always been an acceptable gasoline to use. For the past 8 months I have noticed more severe shaking at acceleration, whether I accelerate from a complete stop or I am already moving. I had maintenance done on time and had no change from before and after this maintenance. In a desperate attempt to &quot;fix my car&quot; without having to take it in, I put a higher quality 91 unleaded. My car still shakes and drags, but much less with this higher quality. Does this sound like a bad fuel filter, transmission, or something else?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19885" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T12:29:20.403" Title="What issue could I have that can be remedied by high quality gasoline?" Tags="|ford|fuel-system|shaking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33041" CreationDate="2016-07-18T20:59:12.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing which higher octane gas will solve is pinging (knocking or pre-ignition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, just because the gas is a higher octane &lt;em&gt;does not mean it's higher quality&lt;/em&gt;. Higher octane gas does not burn as easy as lower octane gas. At most gas stations, the higher octane will not be any better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does, however, differ given different brands of gasoline. In the US, there is Top Tier gasoline products which have a higher level of detergent in them. This could possibly help your situation, but it can take a some time for it to really clean things out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your mileage, I'd highly suggest your car needs a tune up. This would include plugs, wires (if equipped - if coil on, would not be needed), and O2 sensors. This is, at a minimum, a great place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you'll want to clean the MAF with electronics cleaner and change the air filter. Once you've done these very simple things, run the car for a while and see how it's doing. If no improvement, you'll probably need to ask more questions here and possibly see a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T20:59:12.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33044" CreationDate="2016-07-18T21:19:00.590" Score="50" ViewCount="16563" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't rally cars have airbags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other competition cars, including Ken Block's don't have airbags either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just for weight reduction, are they redundant or is there another (major) reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastEditorUserId="14742" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T11:07:37.410" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T13:38:47.463" Title="Why don't rally cars have airbags?" Tags="|safety|supplemental-restraint-system|racing|rally|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-18T21:32:50.587" Score="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, they don't need it. The purpose of the air bag is to protect the occupant as the body is thrown forward in a crash. Most racers have such vastly improved safety equipment over what is available in a standard road worthy automobile, they don't need air bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things you'd need to take into account are things like a five-point harness, which pretty much holds the driver in the seat and does not allow him to shift forward, even in a crash. A standard automobile has a 3-point harness, which keeps the body in place for the most part, but is no where as efficient as a 5-point is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most racers also use what's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HANS_device&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HANS Device&lt;/a&gt;. This keeps the head in place during a crash, alleviating any strain on the neck during a high speed incident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two pieces of equipment make airbags pretty much useless in a race car. With these safety items in place, the body doesn't go forward, but rather is kept in the seat and is better protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T13:38:47.463" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T13:38:47.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-18T21:33:57.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simplicity (less to break, repair)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safety: There would be more instances where they might cause more harm than good. (for example minor impacts or large jolts might trigger airbags, thereby rendering the car and driver incapacitated... when they would normally still be able to drive)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safety #2: The drivers have already are wearing advanced harnesses and helmets which provide a similar restraint effect as airbag.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Summary: They wouldn't really serve a purpose other than getting in the way&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="10790" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T22:25:41.610" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T22:25:41.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33014" CreationDate="2016-07-18T22:21:55.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery Voltage&lt;/strong&gt; - Should be 12V (absolute minimum) to 14.5V (general maximum). I guarantee that you're not high charge, but low charge could be an issue. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Test the battery with the key in the OFF position and ACC position separately to check for draw/short issues.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Connections&lt;/strong&gt; - Make sure your battery terminals are corral in free. Even if they're clean, a light scuffing with 80-120 Grit sand paper is always OK. The main spot where I've run into issues is where the negative contacts the body. Make sure it's totally clean and firmly tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check this 2 points and update your post. If either of those resolve the issue, let us know. If not, we'll be able to help you better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, welcome! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T22:21:55.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T23:44:17.610" Score="32" ViewCount="61034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2004 Volvo XC90 T6 2.9L AWD with 6 cyl. (Twin turbo, with catalytic converter.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While changing the spark plugs, one broke-off (all the ceramic below the threads and possibly the metal finger of the plug - I'm not sure) and fell through the valve, after bending it and causing the valve to burn (possibly). The cost to replace the engine or valve is huge! So I intend to drive the SUV back home (about 20 miles) and then replace the plugs with iridium NGK and drive it. I am hoping the spark plug piece that broke off will melt in the piston and not destroy the piston. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I drive the car or will it destroy the engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spark plugs were less than 2 years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19887" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T22:11:47.693" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T21:14:59.747" Title="Spark plug broke off in engine - can I drive the car?" Tags="|engine|sparkplugs|volvo|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:05:57.167" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; risky to me. The portions of the plugs that reside in the combustion chamber are designed to tolerate the heat and pressure there. I don't think they will melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what will happen is that those parts are likely to remain in the cylinder and may get caught between the top of the piston and the head and/or valves. That is likely to do more damage. If the engine is turbocharged any pieces that do manage to escape the cylinder will pass through the turbocharger turbine and may do significant damage there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a better move would be to have the car towed home and then use either compressed air or a vacuum to pull out the spark plug pieces. Then do a compression check to see if there is any evidence of damage. If you can get access to one, I'd be inclined to use a fiber optic inspection camera to verify that everything was out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T00:05:57.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:25:04.443" Score="18" Body="&lt;h1&gt;If this happened during a plug change&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have roadside assistance/towing, I would highly recommend getting it towed home, then purchase a cheap USB inspection camera or a inspection unit like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-62359.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from Harbor Freight&lt;/a&gt; and look inside the spark plug hole to see if there is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any remnants of the plug and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any trauma to the exhaust value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If it happened while driving&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has mostly likely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;done all the damage it will ever do, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply went out the exhaust if the wastegate wasn't directing exhaust to the turbocharger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T09:55:05.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T02:43:13.877" Score="4" ViewCount="2254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a P2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is &#xA;O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe&#xA;   after the catalytic converter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car&#xA;   floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and&#xA;   replace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone on this forum done this repair on a 2007 Sienna? If so does the above description sound accurate for how to fix it? Do you have any suggestions/advice for someone attempting the repair for the first time? Also, any advice for where to buy the replacement O2 sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T18:55:29.813" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T18:55:29.813" Title="P2195 trouble code 2007 Toyota Sienna" Tags="|toyota|o2-sensor|sienna|p2195|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T03:02:01.283" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the very least drain the oil, but I suggest that you take the oil pan off, clean it thoroughly, fill it up again, run for a day or so, and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece that broke my engine probably went through the oil channels 30 to 100 times before it hit the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak based on experience.  I made the mistake of running an engine after this happened to me. Ford V8, 428cid. The result of this mistake was a broken crankshaft about a month later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best guess is that a piece of the ceramic spark plug was caught by the spinning crankshaft in the oil passage in the crankshaft bearing. The cranked stopped, and the mass snapped the crank. I was in second gear (automatic), going about 25mph, lightly on the gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not prove that the spark plug broke my crank, but I am pretty sure that is what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - the heat in the combustion chamber will not melt or in any way damage the broken bits of ceramic insulator. That is the whole point of using ceramic for the spark plug insulators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19888" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T18:10:51.803" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:10:51.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13091" CreationDate="2016-07-19T03:19:41.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really sounds like an Ignition Switch problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go over the symptoms carefully.  The engine just stops (as if the ignition was turned off).  The starter just clicks (does not turn the engine around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many contacts in the ignition switch, so the indicator lights stay on.  One or two of them are out of spec, and when it gets hot, the connection fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it has failed, check to see if there is voltage to the ignition system (you could even set up an LED to verify this voltage 100% of the time, like I did with the fuel pump in my Honda).  If there is no voltage there, you have found the problem.  A slightly different type of failure is also possible, there could be voltage, but not enough current (due to a bad contact), so be wary of that also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may also be one of the cheaper things to try testing/replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Dave&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19888" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T03:19:41.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T04:22:22.410" Score="8" ViewCount="5625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Managed a very stupid mistake: changed the oil on my just-purchased '03 Kia Diesel Pregio on uneven ground. The drain plug on it is on the side of the pan, exacerbating the mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially drained only ~3.8L and refilled 7.1L. Manual states 7.1L for a complete change. So the oil was overfilled by 3.3L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize I am an idiot. I didn't measure how much oil was in the drain pan, and I did not expect such a difference from slightly uneven ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started the car with almost a gallon of extra oil in it! The oil light went off and all appeared perfectly fine? Maybe it was running louder than usual, but I could not notice any rough idling. Ran it about 1-2 minutes, shut it off, checked the oil and saw it was all the way up to the bends on the stick! Over the distance between F-L again passed F!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, drained about 3.3L, started it again and all appeared OK. Now the oil is at F. I did not see any foaming or evidence of foaming--I am lucky for that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried foaming occurred during this 1 minute of idling. I have checked the dipstick since then 30x and do not see anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, now only 68% (7.1/10.4) of the current oil in car is new, assuming it was homogeneously mixed by the second time I drained it. I assume the new oil filter should do a good job cleaning up the old oil, but I am worried I really should change it again soon..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the proper course of action in this event?&#xA;*When should I do my next oil change? Immediately? I have 200 miles to the next auto store and I don't want to tow it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**This observation is strange to me: When checking the oil, one side of the dipstick is coated in oil way past the full mark, about to the same mark as when it was way overfilled. The other side indicates F. If the dipstick tube was overfilled with oil, the dipstick may be scraping oil from the side of the tube... otherwise I believe both sides would indicate past full if it was dipping into the oil level. This sounds reasonable to me, but I am paranoid that the oil level is still too high. I inserted, cleaned, and re-inserted the stick about 20 times to see if I could get a different result but the same thing always happens: one side oil passed the jagged bends, the other side to the F mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***The day after this happened, I encountered this problem: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33014/starter-motor-intermittently-will-not-engage/33047#33047&quot;&gt;Starter Motor Intermittently will not engage&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I believe this intermittent problem is the solenoid or a wiring problem, and should be unrelated to the oil change, would that be correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;****Is it possible the oil foamed and I do not notice it on the dipstick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much if you read through this long-winded debacle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19875" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:38:20.630" Title="What is the proper course of action after over-filling oil during an oil change?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-19T06:51:47.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All answers are good but one simple thing missing. Airbag is sensitive and on small crash can be opened. If you race and made small crash you can continue racing if all most important parts of car works. Also if car start to fire, airbag will keep you inside and you are dead. Any help for you or any kind of fast excape with airbag is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19891" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T06:51:47.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33054" CreationDate="2016-07-19T07:04:24.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if your oil is now at the correct level and the engine is not upset, then you may not have any problem. the starter behavior will be unrelated unless you have inadvertently, say, soaked it in oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:04:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33041" CreationDate="2016-07-19T07:06:09.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;another thing to check are the engine mounts. i wouldn't be surprised if sixteen year old american rubber had degraded enough to transmit more shaking to the chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:06:09.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T07:41:53.950" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; drive a car with a piece of sparkplug inside the engine. It can (and likely will) lead to serious damage (up to a catastrophic engine failure). Get your car towed to a service and have the pieces of the broken plug removed. Additionally, get the oil changed (probably with a flush too, to remove all the debris). You will have to spend some money on that, but that'll be definitely way cheaper than replacing the whole engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19112" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T07:41:53.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:03:42.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is pretty straightforward, it has absolutely nothing to do with simplicity weight or anything like that! You are not allowed by fia rules to have working airbags in a competition car due to the fact that during racetime any bump or contact to the impact sensor could trigger the airbag, meaning you get punched in the face by it and have no visibility temporary due to it inflating. Now imagine you are going 100+ kph with a corner coming and people on the sides or a giant drop. It wouldn't be a very fun situation. Furthermore, when you are strapped in with a harness, it renders the airbag completely useless as you don't come into contact with it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19894" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T08:03:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32995" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:12:29.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and cleaned the engine, and so far (after a couple of hours driving around today), everything seems OK. Before applying degreaser and washing, I disconnected the negative battery terminal and wrapped the following parts in plastic grocery bags + duct tape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternator (hard to get to without removing power steering / coolant reservoirs) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuse box&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ignition coil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MAF sensor plug (the big electrical connector between the air filter + intake hose)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;... and other assorted large/exposed cable connections + electronic devices &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After covering these parts with plastic, I used detailing brushes to cover everything with a mixture of 1 part Simple Green degreaser/cleaner to 10 parts water. I used enough that it flowed down over components lower down in the engine bay. I let the cleaner sit for several minutes, and then gently showered it all off with a garden hose nozzle. I repeated this process several times, each time using small brushes to agitate the thicker areas of grease/dirt and scrub in the degreaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem to note with this particular engine is the recess in the valve cover, where the spark plug boots are inserted. This filled up with water when I hosed everything off, and the water slowly seeped through the seals on the boots, and dripped into the spark plug wells. Fortunately, it seems like the plugs prevented the water from actually getting into the engine, and no problems have resulted (so far). But I did have to take towels and soak up all of the water from around the plugs, which was time consuming and frustrating. In the future, to prevent this, I will just seal this entire part off with plastic + tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I'm pretty satisfied. The engine still has a lot of grime on parts that were hard to reach with a brush, but it's much cleaner to work in and I can see everything better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastEditorUserId="19110" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T09:27:30.073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T09:27:30.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:29:18.637" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are ever lucky enough to drive a competition car, the first thing that will strike you is that you can't move.  Once you're in your bucket seat with your fire retardant overalls on, wearing a full face helmet and neck brace and strapped firmly in with your multipoint harness, you'll feel like you've been pinned to the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't look over your shoulder like you can in a road car.  You can't reach the location where the glove-box is.  In the event of a collision, the chances of your helmet coming into contact with the steering wheel are absolutely minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you watch rally cars in action, especially on gravel, you'll see them yumping (rally speak of hitting a jump), you'll see them in and out of ditches, ruts and rivers.  Many of the impacts a rally car suffers during normal use would far exceed the trigger points to deploy a standard air-bag.  Deployment of such a device when landing an airborne car that's travelling in excess of 120mph (200km/h) with spectator lined roads could have deadly consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, in racing when there are multiple cars jostling for position on the same piece of track, deployment would be likely from all the &quot;door handling&quot; (a term to describe &quot;acceptable&quot; contact between race cars) and if one in the middle of a pack were to deploy, forcing the drivers hands away from the wheel, it would likely cause carnage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, air bags are not fitted to competition cars because they could pose a serious and significant risk to both the occupants of the cars and people outside such as other competitors, marshals and spectators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="12744" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T21:44:20.803" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T21:44:20.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:32:19.433" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a nice car - don't be a consumer and break it because you're too lazy to fix it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly the &quot;proper&quot; fix is to tow it to your mechanic, who will take the head off and fish out the broken pieces.  He'll also check the head and valves for damage while its off, and make a recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old engine idling at low speed might happily burp out some fragments into the exhaust, but your car has a catalytic converter and possibly a turbo, and at least one muffler.  There's no clear hole out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pieces will not melt - ceramic and spark tip are in the combustion chamber for every explosion, so they're built for these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - you should change all the spark plugs even if the others look OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs can break because they're in too tight, manufacturing fault, or the lead is too long and flapping around which stresses the plug.  Accidents with tool also damage the ceramics, starting a crack that turns to a full fracture later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given its an AWD you're going to either have to tow it in neutral (if its a manual) or put the whole thing on a car trailer or a flat deck tow truck.  It'll be okay to winch onto a trailer or truck, but only short distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember a repair is cheaper than a replacement car - its not a disposable cellphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T08:32:19.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:36:06.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this before on a Zetec Ford Focus Estate.  The noise of the engine running with a missing plug made it sound like a lawn mower.  Whilst the car could theoretically have been driven a very short distance (i.e. to move it out of danger, not 20+ miles) we decided that it wasn't worth the risk to try and move it under it's own power and towed it with another vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T08:36:06.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:56:33.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, there are two reasons - one is that in a rally car, you're very firmly strapped in with full harness belts, as opposed to the inertia-reel belts in a normal car. The other is that a rally car will have many bumps and jolts that would set off the airbags in a normal car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a regular rally navigator (or co-driver), it's actually quite impressive just how little you move around when properly strapped in - which means you can concentrate on keeping your place on the maps/notes over the rough bits instead of having to hang on! It also means the driver has a lot more control, as again they are not moving in relation to the car, so they can put in much finer steering input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T14:03:37.177" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T14:03:37.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T09:32:56.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No question - running the engine will break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &quot;unlucky&quot;, there's enough clearance between the piston and the valves to fit the spark plug.  In that case you'll have the spark plug rattling around inside the cylinder.  In approximate order, this will first destroy the valves which will not seal properly when their edges and seat faces get damaged, then the cylinder walls, then the piston rings as they're damaged by the gouged-out cylinder walls.  The cylinder head and piston will also be damaged beyond repair, but they probably will not immediately cause the engine to fail.  After that, the crushed-up ceramic will run through the oil and scratch up everything that gets oil and needs to be kept smooth and clean.  The engine may run for a short period, but it will be permanently damaged.  After you've turned the engine on, your next step is to book your garage to fit a complete new engine.  Total cost in the UK is probably £2000 for a recon engine and the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &quot;lucky&quot;, the rising piston and descending valves will hit the spark plug.  This will immediately destroy the valves and seize the engine.  The reason you're lucky here is that this is repairable because it happens immediately.  There's some risk to the piston and cylinder head, but you stand a fair chance of getting away without damaging them.  Total cost is probably around £500-1000 for taking the head off and fitting new valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no idea what you're talking about when you say it &quot;fell through the valve&quot;. The spark plug doesn't go anywhere that it can fall through a valve, because that's not how an engine works.  The valves cover one set of holes into the cylinder (carrying air and fuel), and the spark plugs go in completely separate holes (which are sealed by the plugs).  I don't mean this to sound insulting, but I'm not sure you know enough about engines to make an informed assessment of what's gone wrong and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have breakdown/recovery cover, call them and get them to trailer the car to a garage.  If you don't, call round the local garages to find one who'll pick it up.  You might not need a new engine, but you certainly do need them to take the cylinder head off to retrieve the broken spark plug.  I'd expect to pay around £500 for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A garage should easily do it in a day.  It's generally a whole-weekend job for a very competent amateur mechanic with a good set of tools and plenty of experience.  (That's how long it took me when I had to change a cylinder head, anyway.)  Actually taking the head off is really the easy bit - what takes most of the time is disconnecting everything else around it.  This does need skill and care though, otherwise you can permanently wreck the engine.  Under the circumstances, I would not recommend you attempt this, unless you intend to scrap the car anyway and you fancy having a try to develop your mechanic skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastEditorUserId="11927" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T09:39:37.117" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T09:39:37.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33025" CreationDate="2016-07-19T10:18:45.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to lock the key in the car because I failed to understand the door locks. Further testing indicates that the doors always lock when the button on the drivers door is pushed, without regard to any other considerations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further research required to determine if this is factory setting that can be changed.  Have I mis-remembered the original settings or accidently modified them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T10:18:45.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32984" CreationDate="2016-07-19T11:46:29.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is of course one factor that seems to have been missed; driver error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stalling could cause a motor to stop and it could then easily be restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flooding, although this is associated with older carburettor fed cars, could also cause a motor to stop but it could be restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect setting of the choke (again, you're looking back to older manual choke carburettor cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect setting of the ignition advance / retard (harks back to even older cars when the ignition advance / retard was controlled manually, usually by a control in the centre of the steering wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T11:46:29.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33399" CreationDate="2016-07-19T11:55:14.460" Score="6" ViewCount="28290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car (a 1991 Citroen BX 1.4) has been giving me alternator problems since I got it, the alternator failure came on every now and then and dimmed or disappeared when I revved the engine, my first move was to change the 10 year old battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now one day my car didn't start and battery reading was 11v, so I decided to change the alternator and, as my repair guide specified, I fitted a brand new 50A alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my car responds better but every now and then my lights will dim to a 10% brightness, windows roll up really slow, until I rev the engine ever so slightly and everything is completely back to normal as if my battery was completely charged, in laymans terms, one second of the engine revving every now and then is all it takes to keep my electrical system happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still when parked my car's battery reads 11.8-12.5v and 0 milliamp draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's no mystery, that's not how a car should behave, but I'm completely out of ideas here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16187" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T18:39:59.830" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T04:28:10.120" Title="How to diagnose low alternator output" Tags="|electrical|battery|charging|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-19T12:21:52.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very likely that the engine is already severly damaged.&#xA;A twenty mile trip would most possible kill it. The best you can do is to get your car towed to a service&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T12:21:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T12:25:48.660" Score="3" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Chevrolet Uplander from 2007 with a 3.9 L engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have these error codes C0035, C0036.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know much about cars, can you please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19902" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T10:15:14.200" LastActivityDate="2024-03-31T14:02:20.240" Title="How to fix C0035 and C0036 error codes for Chevrolet Uplander 2007?" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33041" CreationDate="2016-07-19T12:29:20.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could check the sparkplugs for fault signs. Please make sure the insulator has a light brown coloring. &#xA;I suspect you received the wrong types of spark plugs (heat range), producing glow ingnitions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T12:29:20.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T12:34:24.643" Score="5" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is in exactly a technical question but the outcome of automotive companies actually doing this would bring technical benefits that I don't think we're currently doing towards right now so I am inclined to ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to automotive performance, just about anyone who pays attention to the topic knows the Nürnberg ring is used to benchmark cars and how well they perform. Why don't companies use pikes Peak in the same fashion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lived in the Rocky Mountains for years and knowing which cars and trucks were bound to overheat from hauling things through the mountains was way more valuable information to have opposed to how fast it would go around a signature track. Pikes Peak is the closest thing to a famous mountain track that I know of so why isn't it used as one of the standard benchmarks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just seems like a more real world test for cars that could show a considerable difference for some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19903" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T03:09:53.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T03:24:21.030" Title="Why isn't the Pikes Peak Hill Climb used as a benchmark for automotive companies?" Tags="|performance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2016-07-19T13:20:53.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pikes Peak represents a fairly arduous trial and if you hope to race a standard roadcar in the hillclimb you'll find you won't meet the safety requirements.  To race a prepared competition car tells you nothing about the road going version, other than it can be made to perform by a race car prep company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to do timed testing at other times of the year, you are likely to encounter tourist traffic, hikers, cyclists, etc... as the road is open to sightseers.  Also, because of the altitudes involved and because cars struggle to pull enough oxygen from the air at the top you'd have massive variations in time based purely on ambient weather conditions from one day to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nurburgring is technically a toll road but it's only open the public traffic at specified times.  Outside of these times it's possible for a manufacturer to book the venue specifically for testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T13:20:53.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2016-07-19T13:25:30.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could regularly check the acid concentration and liquid level in your battery. &#xA;This can only be done on lead acid batteries that are not &quot;maintenance free&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the top of the battery, then open the plugs.&#xA;Pay attention: There is concentrated sulfur acid inside. Use acid-resistant gloves. Use splash goggles. Make sure a water tap is nearby, so in case you could flush the affected areas with water. There should be an marking indicating the needed fluid level, either on the side of the battery or under each plug. If you cant find a marker be sure that the lead plates are fully covered with liquid. Do not overfill, too much liquid is dangerous for the battery. Top off the liquid with distilled water, make sure nothing else enters the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After filling the battery, use an electronic controlled battery charger to fully charge the battery, let the plugs open during charging. Attention: During charging explosive hydrogen gas fumes out, make sure the area is well ventilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After charging the battery let it rest for half an hour, then use an acid hydrometer to check the acid concentration of each cell of the battery: If there are large differences in the acid density between the cells there is a cell fault and the battery needs to be replaced. If the acid density is not in the right range (about 1.28 g/cm³) the battery also needs to get replaced. Close the plugs, clean the battery terminals and install the battery in your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to use non &quot;maintenance free&quot; batteries of an reputable brand and to annually check the battery before winter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:59:46.183" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:59:46.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33079" CreationDate="2016-07-19T14:18:01.457" Score="9" ViewCount="52142" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much power does a car battery contain, and for how long? I heard that batteries give off a massive amount of power for the first few minutes, then drop off. Let's say this is a new battery, fully charged and ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T04:11:45.737" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T04:11:45.737" Title="How many volts/watts does a car battery give off?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33051" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:45:12.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your looking at the procedure for a rear o2s b1s1 is an AFR sensor and is mounted on the firewall side manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest you do or have some diagnostics done before you replace the sensor. AFR sensors are not cheap and you may find yourself throwing a few hundred dollars down the drain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check fuel trims. Check for vacuum and exhaust leaks. Check rear O2 sensor operation. Do a range test, pull a vacuum hose and watch AFR sensor voltage. Add an external fuel source and watch for changes in voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:45:12.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33076" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:50:39.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;standard&quot; battery will deliver 12.6 volts when fully charged. When charging (e.g. when the engine is running and the alternator is charging the voltage will rise to around 14.2 volts (there is a normal range from around 13.5 to 14.5 volts – don't be to picky about the actual voltage while charging unless you have specific specs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different batteries will have different capacities, measured in amp hours (Ah), the actual amount of power the battery can deliver also depends on the rate and the construction of the battery. The amp hour rating of a battery is based on a standard rate – 1 A – higher draws will result in a lower number of amp hours and a lower draw will extend the life of the battery. For example (made up, not based on any real battery) a 100 Ah battery might be capable of delivering 400 A for 6 minutes (40 Ah), but 0.1 A for 2000 hours (200 Ah).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:50:39.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33076" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:55:01.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you give the make and model of your battery, it's not possible to give you specifics. However, most of the info should be printed on the label, and you can also generally go to the battery manufacturer's web site and look at the actual specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; car batteries are &quot;12V&quot; (not really exact, and also depending on remaining charge and current draw) but there are many systems out there so there's not really a general answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus even if we choose to say &quot;12V is a safe bet&quot; for voltage, the general capacity, max current, reserve capacity, CCA, ability of battery to perform in cold conditions, etc., can vary a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you'll have to go look up your battery on the mfr site or check the label. Here are some of the typical stats (as well as definitions take from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/glossary.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cranking Amps (CA)&lt;/strong&gt; - A rating that is used to define the battery's ability to start an engine in moderate temperature conditions. BCI defines it as &quot;the discharge load in amps that a new, fully-charged battery at 32ºF (0ºC) can continuously deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining a terminal voltage equal to or higher than 1.20 volts per cell.&quot; This artificially high rating should not be confused with CCA, which is conducted at 0ºF (-17.8ºC).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold-Cranking Amps (CCA)&lt;/strong&gt; - A rating that is used to define the battery's ability to start an engine under low-temperature conditions. BCI defines it as &quot;the number of amps a lead-acid battery at 0ºF (-17.8ºC) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt lead-acid battery). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nominal Voltage&lt;/strong&gt; - The rated voltage of a battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Closed-Circuit Voltage (CCV)&lt;/strong&gt; - The voltage of a battery when the cell or battery is under a specific discharge load and time interval. See also Open-Circuit Voltage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reserve Capacity (RC)&lt;/strong&gt; - BCI defines it as &quot;the number of minutes a new, fully-charged battery at 80ºF (27ºC) can be discharged at 25 amps and maintain a voltage equal to or higher than 1.75 volts per cell&quot; (i.e., 10.5 volts for a 12-volt battery). This rating represents the time the battery will continue to operate essential accessories in the event of a charging system failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; - The ability of a fully charged battery to deliver a specified quantity of electricity (AH) at a given rate (amps) over a definite period of time (hours).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rated Capacity (Flooded)&lt;/strong&gt; - The CCA, RC or amp-hours that a battery can deliver at a given rate of discharge, end voltage and temperature. These ratings are often displayed on the outside of the battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:03:11.337" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:03:11.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33054" CreationDate="2016-07-19T16:12:34.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are worrying too much, everything is fine and your car is very happy. If you have too high oil level, it can struggle with breathing, but it won't harm your engine, just drain it to level and happy days. Foamed oil will disappear after a longer jorney when your oil will heat up properly. If it is too low, it will heat up faster, will decrease oil pressure, and if it is way too low, it will grab air, which will stop lubing your engine components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry, you have done everything properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: Most of standard road cars does not require more than 5 liters of oil, this is why oil is being sold in 1L or 5L cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T16:12:34.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3797" CreationDate="2016-07-19T16:17:42.487" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your Engine balancer shaft (crankshaft hanrmonic balancer) bushes.&#xA;Balancer is specifically designed to absorb harmonic engine vibrations as engine speeds rise. If the harmonic balancer gets too old or fails and can no longer properly absorb the harmonic vibrations, the engine will shake excessively..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19909" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T16:17:42.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32344" CreationDate="2016-07-19T16:18:49.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I installed the sensor and it works.  No more hard, erratic shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing with the old sensor is that it was failing intermittently, and maybe also giving incorrect readings.  The hold light would flash sometimes and not others.  When I looked at the data with a scan tool, I saw that it would typically give a reading lower than the RPM readings, sometimes allot lower, and then all of a sudden it would go to zero, stay there for a few minutes and then the signal would come back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the thing to watch out for when testing these sensors is that you might get a perfectly good resistance reading and think the sensor is completely OK, and if you don't sit and watch the sensor for ten or fifteen minutes, or have a logging scan tool you could easily get a false negative and end up doing some really expensive repairs on the tranny when all it really is is a $15 sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the sensors next to each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kzR1T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kzR1T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQDjt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQDjt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I ran into was that the wiring for the connector ended up very tight because the sensor ended up turned 90 degrees away from where it was supposed to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWL8O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWL8O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically had to put the connector on the sensor, then turn it and screw it down.  The orientation of the sensor doesn't seem to matter, as I drove around for quite awhile, the hold light didn't come on and my shifts where very smooth and felt pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T16:18:49.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33071" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:04:36.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it is your front wheel speed sensors. There is nothing you can repair, they have to be replaced, they are responsible for your ABS and maybe traction control (if you have). You can drive like this, it is not harmful to your car, but ABS won't work. The sensor usually is not being damaged (if not physically hammered), usually it is wire which is being turned left and right every time when you decide to change direction for god knows what reason :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are curious - it is a sensor behind a wheel, behind a brake disc, attached to your wheel hub, aiming on a toothed disc that turns together with your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T17:04:36.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:06:44.703" Score="5" ViewCount="5735" Body="&lt;p&gt;To preface this, I was a complete idiot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Honda Accord was a couple thousand miles over the recommended oil-change period and I was being pestered about checking the oil, as it could be fairly low and dirty by that point. I checked the dipstick and completely misinterpreted the dots provided, believing that the oil was in fact dangerously low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it simply. The oil wasn't low, and I added a full 5 quarts to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I do this when I am a solid 20 miles away from my house and did not have the idea of calling AAA to come assist, so as I hop on the highway the engine starts burning oil. I pulled over until the engine stopped smoking, but I did complete the 20 mile drive on this stupidly high amount of oil. Several times during that drive I could feel the car lurch, seeming as though it was starved for air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil has already been taken out and replaced with the proper amount, but I fear the amount of damage that could have been done to the engine. I'm aware similar questions have been asked more than enough times, but I haven't run across one where the car had been driven a fair distance with the oil still in the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T22:21:44.213" Title="8-9 Quarts of oil in engine after adding a stupidly high amount. What kind of damage can I expect?" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33084" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:20:16.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry. You have lubed your engine very well. :D Check your air filter, change it if it is &quot;oily&quot;. If your oil level now is correct, keep driving and enjoying.  It might be a bit smoky for a while, but after a longer journey it'll be just fine. You can only start to worry if it will be smoky after another 20 - 30 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T17:20:16.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T17:39:20.977" Score="4" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do modern cars have dashboards which include useless indicators for the typical driver, such as the temperature of water, pressure of oil and similar technical data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that important data would appear when needed (too high of a temperature, or dangerously trending for instance. I do not know whether a 90°C temperature is good, bad or dangerous). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that regulations enforce one indicator: the speed. It would be ideal if I could place it where it is best for me and then enrich the dashboard with indicators which are relevant to me (not necessarily for others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is such frozen design due to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tradition? (in the sense that someone designed the dashboard in 1950 and it stayed like this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;regulations? (I doubt so, since my last car does not have oil pressure anymore but for some reason the water temperature is still there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;customer requirements? (people are maybe attached to knowing the oil pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked though the dashboard photos in Google Images and most of them carry the typical large indicators for speed and tachometer and some smaller ones for fuel, pressure, etc. There are very few which are different and they are definitely the exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T08:32:09.240" Title="Why are car dashboards so uniformized and include less-useful indicators?" Tags="|car|dashboard|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2016-07-20T04:25:54.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33086" CreationDate="2016-07-19T18:07:55.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually you are saying opposite things. Older cars had more indicators, newer cars rely on ECU. Here's example (my cars):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opel Manta 1981 dash&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGxwN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aGxwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my current car Peugeot 107 dash&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiWFJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiWFJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer as many as possible, I want to know everything. But today you don't have to know how to fill the screen wash liquid to pass a theory and driving test. Cars are built for different needs, different people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is my dashboard when I test the engines..&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUngr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUngr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes we see a new topic where people are concerned about driving at 70 MPH at 3rd gear... If she had Tachometer, she probably would notice that. Sometimes in a busy traffic your cooling might fail and start to go over 100 degree C..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I believe some day we will have a big touch screen on a dash and you'll be able to download an app with a different sensor and gauge setup. Surely they are thinking of it already :)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T18:19:47.197" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T18:19:47.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T20:16:57.023" Score="5" ViewCount="26873" Body="&lt;p&gt;today my car couldn't start beacuse of dead battery. The battery is not old, I simply left my dash cam attached for a few days without using the car...&#xA;I'm alone at home and my car is in a difficult position to place another car beside and charge the battery through the wires...&#xA;I have not external battery charger or anything to charge the battery with.&#xA;This is an annoying sitiuation. So I got an idea (for future similar events): basically, all you need to charge the battery is something that can provide a tension greater than 12v, with a good amperage, for a while and attach it to the battery, wait and start the car. I saw people using laptop charger, AA batteries, etc.&#xA;I was wondering if I could do this using a power bank, or even a mobile charger. My phone can handle 12v and the output of the charger is 12v 1,5A, quite high. My power bank is 5v 2.1A instead. By having a USB transformer I could attach it into the power bank and have something like 15V 0,7A... Is this possibile? Could this give the car battery enough juice to start? How long would it take to recharge the battery enogh to start the car? Which is the best voltage to charge the battery? Where can I find a USB 5V to xV transformer?&#xA;Thank you and sorry for my bad English&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Franz Tesca" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T19:12:59.117" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T19:17:34.883" Title="Start a dead battery car with a power/USB charger" Tags="|battery|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-08T20:30:09.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory something like this might work but we are talking charging times in days not hours. Go buy yourself a cheap battery charger. If you really insist on trying it you are looking for a 5-14V dc-dc converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="oceanp" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T20:30:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-08T21:08:22.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, a power bank is designed for low power applications and a car battery would fall into high power category. So you would be using the power bank for something that it is not intended for. I would definitely not recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting into the technical aspects of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing you would want to consider is the Ah ratings of your power bank and car battery. Typically, a mobile phone power bank(assuming a very powerful one) would have charge rating of approximately 10,000 mAh(that is 10Ah). A car battery generally has a charge rating of approx. 70 Ah. Even under ideal conditions and loss free energy transfer, you would need 7 such power banks to charge the car battery. You need not completely charge the car battery to start the car. So, let's say you try to charge the battery to 50% of it's capacity. This would still need 3.5 times the charge content of your power bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume you have 4 such power banks. Now the charge problem is solved(ideally!!). But, the critical factor here is whether your power bank can supply power at the required power rating. You have stated that your mobile power bank has 5v 2.1 A rating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's maximum output power rating is 5 X 2.1 = 10.5 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a car battery would require a charging current of atleast 1A at a volatge higher than it's terminal voltage. Car batteries are generally charged at a voltage of approx. 13.5v. So, the power required to charge the battery is &#xA;13.5 x 1 = 13.5 W (ideally). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, your power bank will not be able to charge the battery even under ideal conditions since power ratings do not match. In real time, charging circuitry would involve lots of power dissipation which makes things even worse. I would not recommend this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="E.Basu" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T21:08:22.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33086" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:23:15.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are so &quot;uniformized&quot; and include less-useful indicators because your interpretation of them being less-useful is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're driving the absolute latest development of a passenger car, a completely electric car like a Tesla, then these uniformized indicators are exactly what you want to have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a piston engined car, as a driver you should want to know exactly the information provided to you by these &quot;uniformized &quot; gauges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coolant temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil pressure (or, in case of a more modern car, just be told when oil pressure is not satisfactory, which is what you now get.. No gauge, but indication if there is low oil level or even worse, no oil pressure in the DIS (driver info. Display)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are the critical points to know for a piston engined car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information would be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel consumption &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;time since departure &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as are more typical with modern cars fitted with trip computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question seems to suggest that information provided to you should require less knowledge about the critical items of the vehicle. This in my opinion is like expecting a pilot to fly a plane but not understand the principles of flight that keep an aircraft in the sky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a driver of any vehicle you should understand the basics of the vehicle you are driving and there is no excuse for ignorance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, for a typical piston engined car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine should have sufficient oil level and pressure to lubricate working components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coolant should be in operating range&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyres should not be worn and have correct air pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fuel quantity adequate for intended trip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to name the basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gauges are there to present the facts. It is always up to the driver to interpret their meaning and to react accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T08:32:09.240" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T08:32:09.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32337" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:36:41.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're smelling exhaust in the cabin, it's not due to an air leak, but an exhaust leak. You could be having some issues there if your leak is prior to the O2 sensor in your exhaust pipe. Your ECU would think you have too much air in the mix, therefore making you run rich and flooding the engine so it won't start. Check your O2 sensor and inspect for exhaust leaks using a spray bottle and a soap solution. Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19915" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:36:41.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33054" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:38:20.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When reading the oil level stick just take the lowest reading. Obviously if the oil stick is dry above F (even if only part of it) then the oil level is at least up to the F mark. The explanation for the amount above F is as you assume, just picking up from inside the oil level tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cant help with the oil change though.. You may have to assume the oil change has not been done correctly and repeat it. You risk wear on the engine even if only half the oil is renewed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although.. Dare I say it, you would be better off than not changing it at all..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:38:20.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32992" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:40:48.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cats don't really like exposure to fuel. If your car has bad coils resulting in unburnt fuel, this can ruin a cat, hence how they are related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:40:48.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32981" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:44:43.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not with the methods you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling holes in it either side of a split and using cable ties is a good way to repair it. Leave at least an inch of distance from the split so there is enough plastic for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue/epoxy/etc won't last 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:44:43.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:45:41.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The currents involved will need thicker gauge cables or they will melt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For about the same cost of tinkering with all this stuff, buy yourself a battery charger. If you don't have an electrical socket near where you usually park, either get a proper extension cord or learn how to disconnect and remove a car battery, charge it in your home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you say your dashcam is what killed your battery, you may want to change the power wiring of your dashcam. Right now, it sounds like it is getting power directly from the battery, instead use power wires that are only on when the ignition key is at the &quot;accessories&quot; or the &quot;on&quot; position. The radio, cigarette lighter and heater fan use such connections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T19:45:41.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33084" CreationDate="2016-07-19T19:55:42.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, +1 for your preface, the first step is admitting we have a problem :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did any damage by overfilling, there's not much you can do about it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm sure you've read, overfilling the engine will cause the oil to foam. Since the oil pump can't move air, you may have starved certain parts of the engine of vital lubricant, and burnt the oil in other spots (since there was no oil to keep that spot cool, or to push the overheating oil into the oil pan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've already drained the oil to the correct level, I would add a product like &lt;a href=&quot;https://seafoamsales.com/how-to-add-sea-foam-to-oil-crankcase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seafoam&lt;/a&gt; to the oil and drive for ~100 miles, &lt;strong&gt;then do another oil and oil filter change&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't want to drive too far after adding the Seafoam, as any deposits the product helped free up could clog your oil lines or filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going forward, I would regularly check the oil level every time you fill up with gas to make sure you aren't burning excess oil. If you can go 3000 miles to your next oil change without losing more than a quart (or without catastrophic failure), then it's safe to say you managed to avoid damaging the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I am in no way affiliated with Seafoam or their distribution network, but I have used, and am a fan of their products.)&#xA;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T22:21:44.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T22:21:44.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:11:33.203" Score="3" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the probable cause of engine oil in the coolant? There are no performance issues but when I checked the coolant level, I noticed oil residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T13:22:21.200" Title="Coolant has oil residue" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33119" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:13:47.210" Score="5" ViewCount="2348" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sound reminds me of what it sounds like on older model cars when you turn the key to start when the engine is already running and the starter makes a loud shrill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started a few weeks ago and only happened once every ~20 starts. Now it is happening every ~5th start. I turn the power off, then back on to start again. This last time it took 5 tries before it finally started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I troubleshoot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T21:26:13.977" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:38:14.543" Title="Starter squeals and fails to start" Tags="|honda|accord|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33102" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:52:13.253" Score="5" ViewCount="19480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Volkswagen Jetta 2008 S, and I recently noticed that the coolant level is near minimum. My user guide told me to get the purple G12 coolant and that was what the auto parts store made me buy.&#xA;However, the one I currently have in my car looks more like orange or pink. Does the color change when it's diluted or should I be concerned about mixing different coolants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14939" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T14:49:37.017" Title="Mixing Coolants" Tags="|vw|coolant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33100" CreationDate="2016-07-19T22:28:40.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with G12 coolant, as it seems to be VW/Audi specific, but mixing incompatible coolants will cause precipitation (&quot;sludge&quot;) within your cooling system, which will cause blockage. G12 coolant comes in a variety of colours, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?s=8a0806ae6ed9e05798cdd3002214b98e&amp;amp;p=2012162&amp;amp;postcount=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read more here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is remove a small quantity of your coolant (use a turkey baster), place it in a clean empty clear plastic bottle (disposable drinking water bottle) and add the same amount of your purple stuff. Shake it vigourously for about 25 seconds, then let it sit for 3 minutes then look at it. If you are seeing just one uniform liquid with nothing floating at the top or sinking at the bottom, your fluids are compatible. If you are seeing 2 different layers, large patches floating or big globs at the bottom, your fluids are not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fluids are not compatible or if you are not sure, get your cooling system completely flushed. The tank, the radiator, the engine block and the heater core. Then fill it with water and drain the entire thing again. Repeat until the water comes out clear and no bubbles. After your last draining, fill your cooling system with the coolant you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T22:28:40.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25831" CreationDate="2016-07-20T00:23:27.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're describing is almost certainly an electrical problem (or two). It sounds like two things are happening and they are quite likely related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something is causing the engine to shutdown (your may find &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32984/what-can-cause-a-gasoline-engine-to-suddenly-mysteriously-stop-non-catastroph&quot;&gt;What can cause a gasoline engine to suddenly &amp;amp; mysteriously stop&lt;/a&gt; helpful for thinking about what could be happening).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something is causing the starter motor not to run, or perhaps something is inhibiting the starter solenoid from pulling in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these things happen together, I'd start by looking for a common element. Some things to check would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grounds – especially if any of them were disconnected in the process of doing the rebore. Was the engine taken out of the car? If it was the grounds to the block should be double checked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Common points in the circuits that support the engine (ignition, fuel delivery, ECU) and that control the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can check, see if you see a start signal to the starter solenoid when you try to start after the car shuts down – this will help you determine the cause. Measure between the small terminal on the solenoid and the battery to eliminate the ground as the possible problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aiso double check that the car appears to have been put back together correctly – for example if a heat shield was left off from around the turbo it could cause nearby electrical components to malfunction (perhaps there is a self-resetting circuit breaker that is overheating and &quot;mistaking&quot; a hot environment for excessive current).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I think it is more likely that there would be one common cause for the two problems than that that two, related, problems have suddenly cropped up, but if the engine was pulled to do the rebore it is possible that there are multiple issues and they just happen to be related. But, as a starting point, I'd be looking at common points in the circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T00:31:35.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T03:06:34.233" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;At many auto parts stores they will test - often for free - a vehicle's electrical system by attaching a device to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.  That's all they do.  Then you turn on your vehicle, and, like magic, they can tell you if your battery, starter, or alternator is faulty.  Not only that, they can provide very specific information regarding any faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the information produced by these systems meaningful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if more than one component is actually faulty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:14:21.827" Title="Is the diagnosis from a battery/starter/alternator tester meaningful?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|starter|testing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33104" CreationDate="2016-07-20T03:14:21.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This test is rudimentary, but efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing the battery voltage with the car off tells you the current state of the battery (can it hold a charge)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Testing the battery voltage with the car on tells you the state of the alternator (can it recharge the battery)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measuring the battery draw while you are starting the car tells you the current state of the starter (is it drawing the correct amount of current)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any deviation from normal, and by how much, provides well-educated guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:14:21.827" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32423" CreationDate="2016-07-20T03:23:47.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that brake fluid should be replaced on a regular basis (every two years is a common recommendation) is that brake fluids are hydrophilic (they &quot;like&quot; water) and over time atmospheric humidity builds up in the fluid. When this happens the fluid can boil under heavy braking, which would cause the loss of braking power. Moisture in the fluid can also result in internal damage to the brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are big enough risks that you'd want to be really sure of a few things before trying to extend the life of brake fluid based on the readings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What actually happens to the moisture picked up by the fluid – if it is evenly dispersed in the fluid then the meter might work, but if it accumulates in low areas or if it is not necessarily evenly dispersed then you may well get a false reading from the meter. A false positive could be very bad news.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do you interpret the meter readings? For example, how much moisture is tolerable? Is it the same for all fluids? How reliable are the readings?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, replacing brake fluid seems like cheap insurance to me and without some good and reliable information about the effectiveness of the meters I'd be inclined not to trust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:23:47.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-20T03:26:57.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any car jump starter device will do, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Instant-Power-500-Peak-Amp-Jump-Starter/13005748&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Instant-Power-500-Peak-Amp-Jump-Starter/13005748&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN1I3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN1I3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper, simpler, and more reliable than playing with stuff you find around the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:26:57.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33023" CreationDate="2016-07-20T03:42:18.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either rotor should fit on either side. Something is wrong. It could be that one rotor wasn't machined correctly, or that something is odd with the hub. Start by looking at both of them carefully, you may see an obvious difference. Failing that, if you have appropriate measuring tools, see if you can find a difference that accounts for the misfit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, then it is likely that the hub is off somehow and you'll need to sort that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to look at is the caliper itself, if it floats then it is possible that the caliper has hung up and could be freed and centered so that it would fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be helpful to compare your old rotors. Are they identical, roughly speaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T03:42:18.790" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33086" CreationDate="2016-07-20T04:02:19.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the question, in principle. Not long off will be the day when the desired data will be selected by the user/driver and electronically displayed. Most gauges &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; indicate an unacceptable value with a red band on the dial at the low or high end of the range, which satisfies your need to just know when conditions are not acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose that the common round gauge shape is related to human conditioning for what &quot;looks right&quot;, and the continued presence of temp, oil pressure, volts, etc. is because those are &lt;strong&gt;critical variables&lt;/strong&gt; that many drivers are indeed cognizant of and they would be less likely to purchase the vehicle if they were not there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally gauges were round for several reasons. Real pressure gauges use a &lt;em&gt;Bourdon Tube&lt;/em&gt;, which is a round-coiled tube with an indicator needle attached to it that expands (uncoils) as pressure from the fluid inside increases. As the tube coils and uncoils the needle moves, giving you a reading. Similarly, traditional temperature gauges often use a coiled bimetallic element which coils and uncoils predictably with temperature changes due to different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals. So &quot;round&quot; was the most economical shape (less wasted space) for a gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the gauges in use today do not truly represent actual values, they are an electronic interpretation. Or even blatantly fake, like my Ford oil pressure &quot;gauge&quot; which looks like a gauge but is actually just a graphical representation of a signal that is either ON or OFF according to a pressure switch sender. It could just as easily be an &quot;idiot light&quot; that only informs me when the value is out of range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T04:02:19.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33023" CreationDate="2016-07-20T04:34:16.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspect your passenger side for something bent that could cause your bracket to not line-up where it should. Since you said that the passenger side bracket is of a slightly different size, it may be the wrong bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, there are &quot;option&quot; brakes available that require a different bracket, maybe somebody needed to replace that bracket and got the wrong one, and you ordered the same replacement. Return to the part store and ask them to look-up other brackets available for the '99 Maxima. With and without ABS, and traction control. To give you an example, in order to get the correct parts for the rear brakes of my '94 &lt;strong&gt;Sentra&lt;/strong&gt; that &lt;strong&gt;doesn't have ABS&lt;/strong&gt;, I need to request the rear brake pads for a '92 &lt;strong&gt;Maxima&lt;/strong&gt; and the rear rotors for a '93 &lt;strong&gt;Pulsar with ABS&lt;/strong&gt;. As far as the parts store is concerned, my Sentra doesn't seem to exist. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T04:34:16.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-20T05:08:16.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I realize your goal is to charge the car battery, but note that the typical approach is to just start the car (you need to output a few hundred amps for a short amount of time to start a car). Secondly, assuming your alternator functions properly, you don't need to charge the car battery, you just need to get the engine started. The alternator will take over from there and charge the car battery back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I know this doesn't directly answer your question of how to build your own, but there are dozens of products like this that already exist, are small enough to fit in your pocket, have a USB port for charging devices as well as cables for jump starting a car, and charge in just a couple of hours, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLE6X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLE6X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one pictured above cost $40 USD, is a 8000mAh power pack with a USB output port for charging devices, a USB and barrel input port for charging itself,  a jump starter output with 300A crank current (you can do about 10-ish starts with it when it's at full charge), and it fits in my pocket. I own this one it's great (I don't want to turn this into an ad though so I'm not going to mention the product name, but these are easy to find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might want to consider an existing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on the type of vehicle you have and the terrain around you, you might just be able to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Push_start&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;push start&lt;/a&gt; it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T05:15:02.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T05:15:02.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32763" CreationDate="2016-07-20T05:48:19.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not a direct answer to the OP's question, a piece of advice picked up from my many trade customers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the new Ford Ranger with 3.2 L Duratorq TDCi (&quot;PUMA&quot; P5AT) diesel engine,  draining all the oil out can cause engine failure because the oil pump is not self priming and the oil must be drained and topped in quick succession. No sloping off for a coffee while it drains, you need that bung back in when the flow slows off, so that the oil pump still maintains it's prime. For this reason, doing it cold is better as it keeps the oil viscous enough to hang in the intake for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality engineering, boys. Ford have replaced engines themselves because their own technicians took too long / drained too much out!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T05:48:19.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T05:51:17.393" Score="6" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Chevrolet Aveo 2007 &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32993/brake-pedal-is-pulsing-when-i-apply-brakes-is-it-caused-by-abs&quot;&gt;I have had ABS light intermittently turning on and off&lt;/a&gt; for around a year. Besides the ABS light in dashboard, braking seemed to work normally until 2 weeks ago when ABS occasionally started to kick in when it should not have (i.e. pulsing pedal and increased braking distance). Then few days ago also the &quot;BRAKE&quot; light started to turn on intermittently in dashboard. I checked the brake fluid and it is ok. I also pulled the handbrake, but it did not have any impact on the BRAKE light in dashboard. I am now left wondering if there is another separate issue with BRAKEs or if it is related to the ABS issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvSnP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvSnP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today as part of experiment I also removed ABS fuse. What I am seeing after removing it is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both ABS and BRAKE lights are now &lt;strong&gt;constantly on&lt;/strong&gt;; AND&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Haven't&lt;/strong&gt; noticed ABS kicking in anymore (because it is effectively disabled after I removed the fuse).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlYkn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlYkn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put back fuse, then again BRAKE and ABS light is only intermittently on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is - If and How ABS system could have impact on BRAKE light in the dashboard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T16:58:53.057" Title="Under what conditions &quot;BRAKE&quot; light in dashboard can be related to malfunctioning ABS?" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32805" CreationDate="2016-07-20T06:09:10.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From many years of selling both 'standard' and 'high-performance' HT lead sets, here's my advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing your lead set because it's simply time to do so, buy the cheap ones: they're perfectly ok for most 'normal' applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing them because the last ones gave trouble after less than expected mileage, go for the #2 mid-range ones. They're stronger, that's about all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're racing, or driving a high-performance vehicle, buy the high performance ones for the simple fact they can handle higher temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all truthfulness, most of the 'high performance' is about marketing. The silicone is high temperature, the fiberglass core simply prevents you from breaking the wires by pulling on them - which is bad practice anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a car parts salesman's point of view, buy the dearest ones ($$$ ka-ching! $$$)&#xA;From a mechanically savvy car-owners point of view: save your self the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15648" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T06:09:10.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33114" CreationDate="2016-07-20T06:41:38.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your ABS system checked. If you want to start the procedure yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack one corner of your car up and place it on a jackstand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/03/c8/b6/medium/0900c1528003c8b6.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electrical connector&lt;/a&gt; of that wheel and inspect it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect it and perform an electrical test on it. First, measure the AC voltage the sensor produces when you are turning the wheel by hand (put the car in neutral with the parking brake on when doing the front, car in park with parking brake off when doing the rear. Always block a wheel with wheel chokes). Second, measure the resistance of the cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do this to all 4 wheels. If everything checks out, the issue may be with the ABS controller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, an auto parts store may be able to read the ABS trouble codes from your ABS controller. If the light is on, the controller has something to say. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T06:41:38.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T07:07:58.217" Score="1" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have hired a Mechanic and he asked me to replace few accessories, still the car did not start it just give crank and goes off thereof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T07:07:58.217" Title="Maruti Alto Starting Problem" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-07-21T02:43:52.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33099" CreationDate="2016-07-20T08:41:08.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspect the starter. Before extracting the starter make sure that the battery is disconnected. Check that the pinion (red) can move axially on the shaft (blue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLAN2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLAN2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Make sure that the pinion(red) can move axially on the shaft (blue)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to remove the starter.&#xA;I am sorry, i can't give you exact details about your specific model. &#xA;In generally you need to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnect the battery (very important: the starter is directly connected to the battery, a short can heat a wrench in milliseconds to red hot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnect the wires to the starter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the starter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing a starter under normal conditions is easy, unless the location is obstructed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:38:14.543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:38:14.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28161" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:01:49.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your transmission is making a grinding noise while the car does not move and with clutch fully depressed it means that there is still torque applied to the transmission. I suspect that either the master cylinder or the hydraulic line are having a fault. It is also possible that the repair work on the clutch/slave cylinder was not done right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further diagnosis you could jack up the car, put in the first gear, keep the clutch depressed, start the engine, wait and check if the wheels slowly start turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:53:55.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:53:55.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33114" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:11:41.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake (at least on my old Ford system) is just the emergency brake. If I were to guess it's more than likely a separate, unrelated issue. I would look into the E brake sensor, see if the E brake is sticking and/or see if there's slack in the E brake line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you find out which of the sensors/wiring harnesses is bad (ABS issue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T09:11:41.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32337" CreationDate="2016-07-20T09:50:58.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be stretched timing chains or a problem with the vvt gear, stretched chains will give an incorrect reading between the cam sensor and the crank sensor (essentially engine is out of time) and will usually fail to start once stretched to far, if the correlation between cps and crank sensor if different for I think 5 seconds car will not start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could also be a weak signal in the starter motor circuit, eg poor grounding of the starter motor if it has been removed, or damaged wiring or an internal fault in the starter motor it self &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is more likely if it's a crank position code and not a cam sensor code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastEditorUserId="19928" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T09:56:29.110" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T09:56:29.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33172" CreationDate="2016-07-20T10:39:14.360" Score="2" ViewCount="11350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 model Ford Escape showing an error code B10A2. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it. Thanks in advance for helping me out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:00:03.947" Title="How to fix B10A2 error code for Ford Escape 2013?" Tags="|ford|escape|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T11:17:49.527" Score="5" ViewCount="35614" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi am greatly confused with the on/off position of choke in Hero Passion XPro (2014 model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to set it in three different positions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical (the choke switch pointing downwards) (image below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diagonal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horizontal (pointing towards the fuel switch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know which of these should i use while riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 1 : Image of vertically positioned choke switch : &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBxJU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBxJU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19929" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T17:10:58.097" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T14:25:41.817" Title="What is the choke on off position in passion xpro?" Tags="|motorcycle|choke|hero-honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2016-07-20T11:18:25.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such a product already exists and is available, at least in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/1985289.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/1985289.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T11:18:25.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33098" CreationDate="2016-07-20T11:47:12.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nr. 1 cause: damaged head gasket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nr. 2 cause: damaged oil cooler (if present)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nr. 3 cause: cracks in the engine block/head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T13:07:13.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T13:07:13.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33134" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:20:49.883" Score="3" ViewCount="17303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer some guidance in finding the placement of the ambient temperature sensor for an Opel / Vauxhall Insignia 2.0 CDTI 2010?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor seems to be malfunctioning. The value for the outside ambient temperature is either not displayed at all or, when it is displayed, it is giving a false reading of -40 degrees C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to randomly choose when it does display the value and when it doesn't, but when it does have a reading, the engine is reving at around 1300 at idle (instead of the usual 850-ish) and the AC seems to stop working (because it probably thinks the outside temperature really is -40 C). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is this sensor located so I can get a serial number off of it, order a new one and replace it? &#xA;Or at least to check that the cables are properly attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, so as to avoid any future questions, is there any place I can buy a repair / service manual for this vehicle? I am not interested in a hard copy as I would much rather have it in pdf or ebook format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16285" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T01:16:39.280" Title="Where is the ambient temperature sensor located on an Opel / Vauxhall Insignia 2.0 CDTI 2010?" Tags="|sensor|opel|temperature|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:21:50.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people are not reading the question.  This plug didn't fail on the compression stroke, it failed when the user broke it while trying to remove it. I'm not sure what &quot;fell through the valve, after bending it and causing the valve to burn (possibly)&quot; means.  The engine wasn't running.  How would anything bend or burn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STOP. Do not run the engine.  The cost of a tow will be a lot less than that of the possible damage.  So far, all you have to do is fish the broken remains of a spark plug out.  Keep it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15162" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T12:21:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:23:40.247" Score="1" ViewCount="2515" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I came home today around 2pm, the alarm was going off on my 2000 Honda Civic.  I turned the alarm off and after a few minutes it went off again.  this happened a few more times, till I decided to move the car from the busy main street in front of my apartment building, to a quite gravel parking lot behind the building.  So far it's been about 25 or 30 minutes and it hasn't gone off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was googleing around and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1164473-e46-alarm-going-off-because-of-heat!!&amp;amp;s=7cc7d11c27b985e1bcd856db0aefc00d&amp;amp;p=15400991#post15400991&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ran across this explanation&lt;/a&gt; for a different car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most common reason for alarm falses with heat is the hood switch. The expansion of the hood can trigger the pin switch to activate. You can try adjusting it or disconnecting it and see if it fixes it. My E46 also had this problem, but I never got a chance to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had heard of this type of thing in general?  I was thinking that maybe the vibrations caused by passing cars, plus heat expansion at the hood might be why it was going off on the main street, but not parked in back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I doubt it's relevant, I had the engine replaced two days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 28, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, so at this point I'm sure what's causing the problem.  It happens only during the middle of the day when it's hottest out and the car is parked on the main street.  It seems the alarm at that time is being set off when city buses go by.  I was sitting in the car as one went by and I could feel the whole car shake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess the question is how can I reduce the sensor's sensitivity a bit so it's not set off when the city buses go by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T07:23:22.607" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T07:23:22.607" Title="Can heat plus vibrations from passing cars cause a car alarm to go off?" Tags="|honda|civic|alarm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33131" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:28:59.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sensor is located in the lower front grille, left side (driving direction). The sensor should be visible through the grille raster, there should be only one distinct component&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfaOP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfaOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:17:58.813" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:17:58.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:33:10.950" Score="1" ViewCount="5456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Chevrolet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Malibu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 3.5L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: P0128,P0826&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19935" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T08:15:51.013" Title="How to fix P0128 and P0826 error codes for Chevrolet Malibu 2005?" Tags="|chevrolet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T12:36:49.073" Score="6" ViewCount="2724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently tasked with replacing the tires on my grandparents 07 Jeep Wrangler X with a 225/75/16. To preface this, it will never go offroad! My mom drives my grandma around on Sundays to the mall and errands. I have no plan on replacing the stock 16&quot; rim (Sorry, I can't tell you what the width of the rim is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go and buy new tires, I want to buy a tire that will best make for a softer ride. I believe a tire with more sidewall helps absorb more bumps. If this is correct, what are the pitfalls of a taller tire?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since it has such a short wheel base it turns very well, unfortunately that equates to a lot steering while trying to drive straight on the highway. I believe this is called &quot;oversteer&quot;. Would a wider or narrower tire help dampen the steer? If this is correct, what are the pitfalls of a wider/narrower tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks Again,&#xA;Devin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Edit]&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;I think I made my question to practical, if we look at it from a strictly theoretical view. My original question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pitfalls of a taller tire?&#xA;&amp;amp; &#xA;What are the pitfalls of a wider/narrower tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a taller tire decreases handling, or a taller tire increases the odds of thicker side walls and increased load ratings (IE truck tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just looking for more simple facts about the variables at play when deciding on tire sizing. These facts will help me make an informed decision on which size I should pick based on my criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks Again,&#xA;Devin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15286" LastEditorUserId="15286" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T10:46:12.917" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T02:07:13.003" Title="What tire size will provide a softer ride and less oversteer?" Tags="|tires|suspension|jeep|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33133" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:14:44.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although I doubt it's relevant, I had the engine replaced two days ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may well be relevant. On many cars that hood would need to be removed to replace the engine and it is quite possible that this would effect the adjustment of the hood switch. If this is new behavior – if you had no or few false alarms like this before replacing the engine – it seems quite likely that the false alarms could be related to the engine replacement and the hood switch seems like good place to start looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T13:14:44.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:20:25.643" Score="4" ViewCount="12030" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi is there anybody that can help me ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I entered the wrong radio security code for my 2009 Honda Accord. Now the screen shows, &quot;Error E&quot;. I found the right code, but won't let me enter the code. If someone knows what I should do, it would be appreciated :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19936" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T01:48:02.077" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:50:09.340" Title="I entered the wrong radio security code, now I'm locked out" Tags="|honda|accord|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33098" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:22:21.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for coolant in your oil too (it'll look milky or frothy). If you have that, have your car towed to your garage of choice and get your head gasket replaced. It's not safe to drive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19915" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T13:22:21.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:36:16.953" Score="5" ViewCount="3676" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US (and I suppose other places where distances are still measured in miles) the term is &lt;em&gt;mileage&lt;/em&gt;. But what about the rest of the world? Is there an SI term for mileage? Or is mileage still the term used in English speaking countries – but without the implication of the units of the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T13:50:52.013" Title="What do you call the distance driven on a vehicle?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29385" CreationDate="2016-07-20T13:37:35.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanic disassembled the gearbox and there was a minor damage in a piston which controls CVT pulleys. When the piston was replaced, the problem got resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T13:37:35.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33138" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:13:09.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cycling the key doesn't work, pull fuse number 15 in the underdash fuse box and re-insert. Re-enter the radio code. You have 10 tries to do this correctly before you are permanently locked out. Then you will be required to go to a dealer and have the unit reset or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T01:50:09.340" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:50:09.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33038" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:27:21.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say exactly what is it, but I would troubleshoot using a stethoscope.  Have someone sit in the car, set the emergency brake, hold the brakes, and put it in drive.  Might want to block the tires too just to be extra sure.  The stethoscope will allow you to find the exact location of the sound.  Look around the intake hoses, throttle body, intake manifold, vacuum lines, exhaust manifold and pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:27:21.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="53120" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:33:23.683" Score="4" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda Hornet (CB600F) PC41 from 2007. It's the first model with EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has an error that we can detect by observing the blinking pattern of the &lt;code&gt;FI&lt;/code&gt; light: 2 long and 9 short flashes. This gives us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnostic Trouble Code &lt;strong&gt;29-1&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Description:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IACV circuit malfunction:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose or poor contact of the IACV connector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IACV or its circuit malfunction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Symptoms:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms my bike has are exactly the ones indicated above. We have already checked the IACV circuit and replaced the IACV itself but the problem persists. The next thing we're going to do is replace the ECU with the one from a friend's crashed Hornet and check if it's actually the ECU that is faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced a similar issue and found out what the actual problem is? Any other suggestions? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't understand anything about mechanics but I'll forward this to my mechanic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19940" LastEditorUserId="19940" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T09:49:49.397" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T23:44:35.447" Title="Honda Hornet engine stalls" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|electronic-control-module|iac-valve|cb600|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32337" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:34:08.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought so...Ran into the same a while back:&#xA;There's a recall for both cam and crank sensor premature failures on the 2.5L and it looks like the same sensors.  New ones have a metal shell instead of being all plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out there's a recall for the '03 350Z's too: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Nissan/350Z/#2003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Nissan/350Z/#2003&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom of the list: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2003 Nissan 350Z Recall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item Affected: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Date Announced: 11/19/2003&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description of Recall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action Need To Fix It:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it would at least be worth calling and seeing if yours got the recall treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11403" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:34:08.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33126" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:51:23.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the choke ON to start a cold engine.  I cannot see the image, so I do not know if this is vertical or horizontal.  If you can look at the choke blade, the choke is ON when it is blocking the path.  Once it is running, set it to PARTIAL (diagonal) until the engine is warm.  Once the engine has been running a few minutes, set it to OFF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choke helps the engine run rich.  This is necessary when the engine is cold.  The engine will start easiest with the choke on.  The engine will run best when warm with the choke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:51:23.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33133" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:54:10.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has a vibration sensor, you can typically set the sensitivity.  You can test this by bumping into your car or trying to rock it a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:54:10.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33136" CreationDate="2016-07-20T15:04:28.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not think more sidewall would help.  The 75 denotes that you have a large amount of sidewall as it is.  I would think the best place to look for a softer ride is the springs and shocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire you pick will not effect how straight the vehicle drives.  If it is pulling, you need an alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would look on a website like tirerack.com at stock size tires and pay close attention to the reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:04:28.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33180" CreationDate="2016-07-20T16:39:29.330" Score="4" ViewCount="21427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years the vinyl on my steering wheel has fallen apart. I'm not so concerned about cosmetics but on humid days it becomes sticky and leaves a mess on my hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rf39X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rf39X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, even the wholesale price of a new wheel, without the airbag, is $300 USD (list price $500 something), and I haven't had any luck at salvage yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question, which is hopefully appropriate here, is: Are there any techniques I can use to restore / repair the vinyl, given its current poor condition, or at least prevent it from becoming sticky or flaking off onto my hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even if I get a new wheel, how can I protect it to prevent this from happening? (If it matters my skin pH is on the low side, I'm one of those people that e.g. wear the paint off of laptop palm rests quickly. So I need to protect it from that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My shift knob, parking brake, and driver side arm rest have the same issue as well, although the shift knob is beyond repair (sadly, wholesale OEM knobs are $130...). Only the interior parts that regularly contact my skin show this type of decay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T16:45:07.157" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:08:11.470" Title="Vinyl steering wheel restoration" Tags="|cleaning|interior|cosmetic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T17:09:19.373" Score="4" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Ford Explorer was in a front end collision.  The engine was not damaged. It did push my radiator up against the fan while we were still on the scene. I freed the fan, hit the fuel reset and the truck started up. I shut it off got it towed home and now all my accessories work but the starter will not even crank. The starter is brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions regarding what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19946" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:24:10.397" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T08:24:10.397" Title="Troubleshooting non-functional starter after collision" Tags="|ford|starting|starter|explorer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T17:23:29.030" Score="5" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2012 FJ Cruiser has just over 20k miles on it.  It behaves oddly when going from stopped to moving, especially when stopped on a decline. The vehicle, when going from stopped to moving, will shudder, almost as if the brakes are sticking or the car is having trouble getting into gear. Once pressure is applied to the gas pedal, the shudder stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken it to my local Toyota dealer and they say that is has something to do with &quot;drive by wire&quot; and that this is normal behavior. This is newest car I have ever owned and have never had this sort of issue. I am not a big car guy; I know very little beyond basic maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this issue could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19947" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T17:30:53.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:22:32.777" Title="2012 FJ Cruiser shudder" Tags="|toyota|brakes|automatic-transmission|4wd|fjcruiser|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33051" CreationDate="2016-07-20T17:43:35.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like based on this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecatalytic.com/oxygen-sensor-education/oxygen-sensor-locations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ecatalytic.com/oxygen-sensor-education/oxygen-sensor-locations&lt;/a&gt; that I need an upstream right or rear sensor. The denso part number is 234-9012 and runs around $100. I've seen online that it's a p.i.t.a. to change out this sensor. I will do some checking into how to do a vacuum and exhaust leak check, etc. before replacing the air/fuel sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T17:43:35.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11778" CreationDate="2016-07-20T17:45:23.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it is very rare that a battery will fail before its life cycle &lt;strong&gt;without other causes.&lt;/strong&gt; so you can check the battery regularly in a number of ways. As mikes mentions, you can use a load tester, and as Josh Caswell mentions, you can use a multi meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another test you can do with any DC volt meter is a charge retention test. See if the battery holds charge over time. When batteries are starting to have issues, their ability to store voltage over time will diminish dramatically. I was just helping a friend with a brand new battery that wasn't starting his scooter. We charged it fully and then tested it. Within the first minute it went from 13.8 VDC down to 12.2 VDC. Check 30 minutes later and it was down to 11.4 VDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is quickly check you voltage on the battery (with all systems off, the key out and all doors closed - you're trying to make sure nothing is pulling voltage) at night, then do it again in the morning. A healthy battery should lose very little juice over this time (depending on alarms or other systems) but should not be falling below 12 VDC ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you notice that your battery is doing this, there's a reason. But that's another topic of debug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T17:45:23.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33162" CreationDate="2016-07-20T18:46:39.977" Score="7" ViewCount="33291" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand properly, setting your vehicle in the AC setting will cycle air from the outside into your vehicle attempting to cool it before it is pulled in.&#xA;Likewise, MAX AC only recycles the cabin air not pulling in any air from &quot;under the hood.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, if it is HOT in your car from sitting in a parking lot all day (10+ hours) -- would it get your vehicle cooler if you turn on AC and allow your vehicle to &quot;cool&quot; the outside air being pulled in.  OR use MAX AC where the HOT cabin air is just cycled throughout your cabin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10492" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:55:57.280" Title="To Use Max AC or AC" Tags="|ford|ac|explorer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33157" CreationDate="2016-07-20T18:56:11.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have thought it would be more efficient at first to pull air in from outside as it will initially be cooler than the cabin air. After a few minutes I would change it to MAX AC to recycle the cooler air from inside the cabin, making it even cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19809" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T18:56:11.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33154" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:22:32.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on all the information in the comments as well, it sound like the throttle body is the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My buddy who's a master mechanic said that the FI does not have an air bypass, so when the throttle body gets dirty it will often cause a low idle or stalling issue. Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/50947-idle-rpm-level.html#/forumsite/20496/topics/50947?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt; your idle should be 500-600 RPM, and not less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try cleaning the throttle body fully and see if that helps. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/maintenance-tech/72710-throttle-body-cleaning-w-pics.html#/forumsite/20496/topics/72710?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread goes over the actual cleaning of the throttle body&lt;/a&gt; if you need assistance with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:22:32.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33152" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:34:42.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all honesty, I would say the steering wheel in the picture is beyond repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used shoe polish to mask the scuffs on my Lumina's steering wheel. As with shoes, the sheen doesn't last forever; the steering wheel would regularly need to be polished to keep it looking good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall that the shoe polish left me with icky hands either, so I'd say it's worth a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:34:42.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33152" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:47:11.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This falls under normal wear and tear. You can install a leather cover around the rim of the wheel. A black leather cover from an auto parts store would work. A better option would be to have a cover made for it. They tend to last longer and get sewed into the part (instead of just tying it down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid this by using leather care products. You have to try a couple until you find one that does not feel greasy. It helps but you have to apply it religiously (once a month).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in a hot climate it might be a good idea to use one of those windshield sunlight covers. High temperatures really damage the interiors of cars. More so on older cars who do not benefit from newer, better materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:47:11.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33157" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:55:57.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's break this down a bit. A/C systems have two basic modes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recirculate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are in &lt;em&gt;outside air&lt;/em&gt; mode, the vehicle will allow air from outside the cabin to enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recirculate&lt;/em&gt; means that the vehicle will mostly use the air already inside of the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both modes allow air to be from both sources. You will get outside air in recirculate, and you will recirculate in outside air. What you change is the amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common approach to cooling a hot cabin is to turn on the A/C and let outside air in. This is done to replace the hot inside air with fresh outside air. Once the hot air has been replaced, the recirculate mode is turned on to increase the speed air is cooled inside the cabin. Its easier to cool air that has been recirculating inside the cabin than outside air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does MAX A/C work for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In modern cars, the MAX A/C settings gets an initial burst of outside air in the first few seconds of operation and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; starts to recirculate it. It is a hybrid setting that allows you to get cold air as soon as possible. If you car has an intelligent multi mode climate control system then you are going to have to ask the weather guy to help you figure it out. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:55:57.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33136" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:59:07.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Devin-&#xA;Jeeps are off-road vehicles are NOT meant to have a soft ride. With that being said, no matter what tire you throw on it the ride quality will not change in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my Wrangler, I had the same tires you are referring to- Goodyear Wranglers. After about a year I swapped my tires to 265/75 r16 BFG All Terrain TA KO2 (original rim). I noticed immediately the ride quality on the highway and general around town driving improved since the sidewall is significantly stiffer. I think the junk tires they throw on stock Wranglers are not supportive enough and thus make the vehicle feel very unstable if turning quick or making small movements on the highway. Switching to this kind of tire will however make the ride much bumpier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't believe you can make the ride more comfortable for your grandparents but switching to higher quality tires will definitely improve the issues you're experiencing on the highway. Don't forget- if you switch tire sizes (and have an automatic transmission) you MUST recalibrate the speedometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastEditorUserId="19603" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T22:37:02.583" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T22:37:02.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:06:31.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kilometers. Look around classifieds posts from other countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun note: Some countries will also list hours of usage for some off-road capable vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T20:06:31.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32945" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:41:50.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the second picture, at the bottom on the right, you can see the hex shaped top of the housing (where it says &quot;25 Nm&quot;). Check at the base of that, which appears to be a filter housing. Also, at the bottom of this housing. There appears to be a some kind of cooler or heat interchanger. Check around that. If there is a spray coming up from a leak, this would be the area I'd be looking at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some carb cleaner (two cans if needed) and get the entire area clean. You want to get as much (if not all) of the oil off of there which you can. When it is as clean as you can get it, you'll want to try and start the car without any of the ducting replaced. You may get some lights on the dash because of it, but this shouldn't be an issue. You can blank the codes later with a hand scanner or take it somewhere to have them taken out. You may not get the car started, but what you are looking for (or someone else, this is going to take two people) is to see where the oil is coming from. Look in the area where I'm suggesting and this will give you a good indication. If it's spurting or spraying up, I'll bet it will be self evident quite quickly. This will give you a good indication of what you'll need to do next and which parts you're going to need. If the car does start, DO NOT RUN IT LONGER THAN NECESSARY! Only crank it as long as you need to if you can see the leak. Also, wear some eye protection just in case it is spurting a bit more than what you might imagine. If the engine is warm, you'll want to ensure you have your arms covered and some type of gloves on ... hot oil can be nasty on bare skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I cannot give you better information than this, but hopefully this will lead you to your leak and maybe help you to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T20:41:50.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2016-07-20T20:44:50.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070914034648AAElZe9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's one answer.&lt;/a&gt; keeping in mind that Australia also speaks &quot;Queen's English&quot;. It really is up to whoever is saying it at that moment. I've seen them say &quot;miles per gallon of petrol&quot; on Top Gear. Miles and gallons are both US measurements and &quot;petrol&quot; is the European term for gas... And that a BBC TV show! Lol!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really it doesn't matter officially and to my understanding there is no current SI term for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional Resource&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=248297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is another thread on the same topic.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T20:44:50.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:34:07.860" Score="7" ViewCount="8406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface, I have a 2009 Honda Fit Sport, bought used last year from a  reputable dealer. I'm clueless about car things, and had the same mechanic for 15 years. But he recently disappeared, so i had to go somewhere new, and fast, to get my insurance squared away this year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went for a routine inspection at a local place (that has a 4.8 star rating, for what that's worth). This guy said my back tires were balding and would fail inspection, he heavily implied that if i got my tires done by someone else, that it would interfere with my obtaining an inspection in due time, or some such business. so i gave him 300 bucks and, despite feeling a little railroaded, was generally happy to have new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except after that, maybe a week later, my tire light kept on going on, it seemed like the back tires had a slow leak that i would have to refill once a week, which was discouraging. I put it off because the idea of confronting them made me feel anxious, but eventually i made my way back to them and found the courage to ask what went wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said the tpms valves (right word/term?) were causing a leak, but it wasn't their fault. I asked why they would both break at the same time as their tire change, they said they must have both been so corroded that any tire change would have broken them. They then said it would be 75 dollars each to fix. I must have really gaped at them because they then said, maybe they could fix them for less, they would have to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While bringing me back to my car, they showed me two random TPMS valves, one with a broken seal, and one with a hairline crack in the metal. He then said, you know, its where we live, these things are bound to happen. because we live in new england, things corrode ( i am not near a coast or anything, im in Blackstone, MA) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After i was driving away i realized i deeply wish i could have mentioned to them that i had my front two tires replaced just weeks before the back ones, and they are functioning perfectly, why would both the back be so fragile, and both the front be fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is corrosion a credible excuse? Is this a common occurrence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19954" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T14:28:33.260" Title="Did Mechanics break my TPMS?" Tags="|tires|tire-pressure-monitoring-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33167" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:51:44.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first major red flag is &quot;you'll fail inspection, but if you let us fix your car RIGHT NOW you'll get your sticker!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All joking aside (not so much a joke..), it's unlikely these would both go bad. I have a 2007 vehicle that has original valve stems with no corrosion/rot at all (not garaged, I'm in Natick). It's quite possible they just threw the rims up on the tire changer and beat the you know what out of them. These gas station mechanics in MA are (generally) not to be trusted. Inspection stickers are a HUGE source of income for them since you are at their mercy. Next time take the rejection sticker and shop around. When you go back with an invoice that the work was done by someone reputable, they cannot fail you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sure sign of mechanic carelessness would be scuffed up rims if they were in perfect shape prior to arriving at the shop... and do NOT pay $75 a piece to replace valve stems! Outrageous. It's unfortunate this happens all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T22:51:44.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33167" CreationDate="2016-07-21T00:28:57.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where the valve was leaking from. I would of asked to see the old TPM units if that's not what they showed you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was leaking around the schrader valve, it's possible they didn't replace the valve with a new one. This won't necessarily cause a leak but if the neoprene seal on the valve is damaged it can leak. It's also possible that the threads the valve screws into are corroded leading to a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was leaking around where the stem seals to the wheel this is usually corrected by installing a new kit which includes a new seal, schader valve and aluminum nut. This is not a replacement of the whole unit. Generally these kits are sold as part of the tire service as they're considered wear items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the hairline crack it's unlikely they would of damaged the stem during installation. Usually when tires are mounted improperly the sensor portion will break away from the stem. Due to the sensor having a plastic enclosure and the stem being made from aluminum in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T00:28:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33173" CreationDate="2016-07-21T00:30:18.570" Score="5" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MY2002+ base model Subaru Forester's have a 16&quot; steel rim (offset 48 and 5 x 100).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckrRQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckrRQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2013 (and later I think) model Forester has steel rims in a similar style but 17&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can these be fitted to a MY2002+ Forester? Obviously there is more rim diameter but presumably the tire sidewall would be somewhat less for a similar overall wheel diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3138" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:03:21.350" Title="Can a 2013 17&quot; Forester rim be fitted to 2002+ models" Tags="|subaru|wheels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33135" CreationDate="2016-07-21T00:42:23.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your coolant level. A P0128 is an insufficient coolant temperature code. If the the coolant level is OK, replace the thermostat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0826 code is for the up shift down shift command for the buttons on the shift lever. This will not illuminate the check engine light. If the buttons work as normal this was an intermittent issue. There may be a ground issue or the switch it self is worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T03:51:05.627" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T03:51:05.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33125" CreationDate="2016-07-21T01:00:03.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The B10A2 code is a general signal fault code. The Body Control Module receives a 5v signal from the Restraints Control Module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest this falls into the area of needing a scantool and having basic 12v skills. You may be better off having the dealer (if under warranty) or a mechanic look at this for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try resetting the code first if it comes back after cycling the key than there may be a problem either in the BCM, wiring, or the RCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the BCM connector C2280C and measure voltage at pin 51 key on engine off you should expect to see a 5v signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't, disconnect the RCM connector C310B and measure resistence between pin 51 on the BCM connector C2280C and the RCM connector C310B pin 42. Spec is less than 3 ohms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wire from BCM to RCM is OK. Key on engine off with the RCM connector plugged into the module backprobe pin 42 of the C310B connector and check for 5v. If there isn't 5v replace the RCM. If there is 5v and the wiring is OK replace the BCM and reprogram as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RCM Connector/BCM connector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXuKn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXuKn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:00:03.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33170" CreationDate="2016-07-21T01:03:21.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bolt pattern is the same at 5x100 for both. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/forester/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; the offset for stock 2002 and 2013 Foresters run between 45-48mm. The difference is not a huge deal and since both vehicles use the same, it shouldn't be an issue. Even the center bore (middle hole) is the same at 56.1mm. The larger diameter wheel will have no effect, as in as far that goes, there will be no fitment issues. You'll need to purchase tires with the same rotations per mile (RPM) or overall diameter as the original ones. As you suspected, this will drop the aspect ration some and will usually make the ride a little bit more harsh, but will improve handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T01:03:21.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33048" CreationDate="2016-07-21T02:41:46.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had 1987 Toyota Celica which at about 5 years old (just out of warranty), suffered a nasty engine malfunction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A screw holding an intake butterfly onto its shaft (one per intake port) came loose and fell into the intake, along with butterfly itself. This, of course, happened while I was driving on a highway. All I knew is that the engine suddenly started making very loud unhappy noises. I exited the highway as quickly as I could, found a location with a phone (I didn't have a cellphone) and shut the car off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got it to the dealership, the mechanic knew the exact problem without even looking at the car (it was a known problem with that engine), but I asked him to open it up anyway. He recovered bits of brass from inside the affected cylinder which were the remnants of the butterfly, and showed me the bent valve (occurred as it chewed on the butterfly), and the affected piston and cylinder head (both had numerous dents due to the piston crunching the bits against the head).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine was repaired (very expensive - about the same price as replacing with a rebuilt), and was never quite the same again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: if any debris falls into the cylinder, it needs to be properly cleaned out to avoid expensive engine damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T02:41:46.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33136" CreationDate="2016-07-21T02:58:37.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have a limited range of tire size options (perhaps only one size) you can fit on the existing rims - you'd have to check with a tire dealer. There are cases where different makes/models of tires of exactly the same size will deliver different ride and handling qualities. Again, you'd have to check with a dealer. Just bear in mind that a more comfy ride usually means a bit of a sacrifice in handling qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3646" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T02:58:37.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2016-07-21T03:24:21.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pikes Peak is like the Isle of Man TT, it's too dangerous&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pikes Peak is essentially devoid of safety barriers and other modern attributes of an FIM certified track.  Guardrails aren't rated and in many cases there aren't even guard rails.  Paint lines do not have the FIM certified level of friction co-efficient, there are typically no run off areas and there are solid objects to impact with all along the entirety of the course from trees to giant boulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, most professional drivers want nothing to do with this.  Today, it is less about glory and more about survival.  Money comes next.  Using Pikes Peak as a standard bearer for time and performance doesn't makes sense from a marketing perspective if the driver you hire to risk his life on this arduous course get's killed.  paid  to  who was killed today on the deadly Pikes Peak Hill Climb.   It's just not good for a corporate image.  Having a car drive the Nurburgring is certainly fraut with risk but nothing like the risk associated with Pikes Peak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jalopnik.com/5934725/how-pikes-peak-became-the-most-dangerous-place-ive-ever-raced&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is a professional drivers account and assessment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; of Pikes Peak in which he states, &quot;Pikes Peak is the most dangerous circuit I have ever raced on.&quot;  Apparently he hasn't been to the Isle of Man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Sensible to Push to the Limit at Pikes Peak&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pikes Peak is not known as a circuit where you can go flat out on and get a comparable time against another driver.  It's about courage and perhaps stupidity.  Using a circuit such as the Nurburgring as the benchmark is more sensible as drivers will be pushing vehicles to the limit rather than holding back to due poor circuit design and safety issues that are associated with a street circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T03:24:21.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33204" CreationDate="2016-07-21T03:32:28.643" Score="5" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gentlemen,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I work in this lab with a small dyno for a two wheeler engine hooked onto it. The engine hasn't been used for years and I had to correct few things in the wiring. I had to remove the flywheel rotor to check the pick up and the condition of the coils and while putting it back, I am pretty sure I did not put it back the way it was. I think I know the answer but I am going to try. Will the ignition timing change when the flywheel rotor is put back together differently? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attached an image for reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlIna.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlIna.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A generic Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16936" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T20:49:58.153" Title="Ignition timing of 4 stroke two wheeler" Tags="|engine|four-stroke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T03:48:33.710" Score="2" ViewCount="3064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a Scanner and Diagnostic tool that will be used for Asian Vehicles. I am not sure which scanner to buy which works with Asian makes like Toyota, Hyundai, Kia, Mahendra, Suzuki and more  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19958" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:19:30.310" Title="Which is the Best Scan and Diagnostic tool for Asian Vehicles?" Tags="|toyota|obd-ii|suzuki|kia|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-07-21T19:43:29.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T04:18:04.597" Score="4" ViewCount="30510" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car just died. It was parked and when I went to start it nothing happened. No clicking sound, no nothing. The electric wndows still worked. I did not check lights. Had to have it towed to repair shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened to me before and the car could not be jumped off. A repair man told me I needed a new transmission? The car is a 1993 Mazda MX3. I did notice the check engine light was on. Also, the car seemed to jerk/lunge when in L gear, but not in Drive. Have not been going over 35-40MPH when in Drive. I can also hear what sounds like a loose or grinding belt under hood. There is Transmission fluid and oil in car. Am worried sick as I cannot afford a newer car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone give me some ideas as to what the problems might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19959" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T09:39:20.797" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T19:45:32.740" Title="Car Would Not Start" Tags="|transmission|mazda|starter|atf-leak|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33152" CreationDate="2016-07-21T05:08:11.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sure looks like that is a factory laced-on cover; I can see the little ridges on the underside at the seam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are often laced on over a foam cushion and a bunch of nasty sticky black mastic. Use a razor blade or utility knife to slice that open at the seam and peel it off. Clean off the actual steering wheel frame ring under it with a solvent, then install a high quality cushioned steering wheel cover. No need to replace the steering wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:08:11.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33126" CreationDate="2016-07-21T05:14:30.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t20875901-kindly_advice_choke_position_passion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check this out.&lt;/a&gt;. It's the same question on another forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the markings on other motors I have, that should be closed/on and up would be open/off. Post a picture of the switch in the horizontal position too for more accurate help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T16:18:28.910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T16:18:28.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33178" CreationDate="2016-07-21T05:19:30.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as we are talking about US spec &quot;Asian&quot; vehicles, my personal preference is one of the many &quot;Autel&quot; brand scan tools, which &lt;em&gt;for me&lt;/em&gt; have always been able to link up and give good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Subaru which the Autel works well on.  Keep in mind this vehicle uses a rare protocol, and is only one year past the 1996 US cutoff which mandated OBD II compatibility,  This tool has never failed me.  While I own a very expensive SnapOn Solus scan tool with Asian, Domestic, and Euro software (a plus $8k investment over the years) the Autel tool is the one I grab and doesn't fail me for &lt;em&gt;generic&lt;/em&gt; as well as &lt;em&gt;make-specific&lt;/em&gt; P codes on all vehicles.  It also does other codes, SRS, ABS brakes, and has live graphs and sensor readings as well (Autel 301).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a &quot;Monitor Ready&quot; mode that fits on one screen and is ideal for trying to complete a drive cycle before the dreaded &quot;P0420&quot; Catalytic Converter Efficiency shows up preventing a successful emissions inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other effective scan tools, and I have no personal financial relationship with Autel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in terms of &quot;bang for buck&quot; I have found no better.  Asian, Euro, Domestic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are speaking of Asian vehicles used in Asia, I have no advice whatsoever, as they may or may not conform to OBD II regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:19:30.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2016-07-21T05:46:03.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In countries that don't use the metric state gas mileage in miles per gallon. In metric countries they use liters per 100 kilometers written as L/100 Km. Similarly  speed limits in metric countries are given in kilometer per hour written as Km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperial Gallons are 1.25 times larger than U.S Gallons. There are 4.54 liters in a Imperial Gallon and about 3.6 Liters in a U.S Gallon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.609 Km = 1 Mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I like about the metric system while driving it seems faster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;60 MPH = 96 KM/h&#xA;100 MPH = 160 Km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:46:03.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30408" CreationDate="2016-07-21T06:05:39.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1399 HONDA - Random Cylinder Misfire Detected&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source of Information:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autocodes.com/p1399_honda.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autocodes.com/p1399_honda.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible causes&lt;/strong&gt; - Valve clearance out of range - Blocked EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) Passages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tech notes:&lt;/strong&gt; Adjusting the valves will usually fix this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When is the code detected?&lt;/strong&gt; The control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible symptoms -&lt;/strong&gt; Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Lack/loss of power - Hard start - Engine hesitation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1399 Honda Description&lt;/strong&gt; When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal to vary, the Engine Control Module (ECM) can determine that a misfire is occurring. - Valve clearance out of range&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other codes are secondary codes indicating the cylinder that is misfiring. P0306 for example indicates cylinder #6. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T06:05:39.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T07:25:20.980" Score="3" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Yamaha Gladiator SS 125 model motorcycle. After repairing the engine there has been one problem in my engine. It is that the mobil from the engine flows towards the air filter and then the same mobil moves towards the piston and a large amount of smoke goes out through the silencer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cause of this problem? I did not got any suggestion from the Yamaha showrooms available in my location in Nepal...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19963" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T09:38:55.903" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T20:20:36.557" Title="Yamaha Gladiator SS 125 model motorcycle engine problem" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2016-07-21T07:48:25.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Netherlands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the milage on the timing belt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never heard a dedicated word for this. Just 'How much has the car driven?' [since it left the factory]'. Or 'How much has the car driven since replacing the belt?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I tend to use mileage. But I do tend to mix rather more foreign words into my language than is the norm. Kilometrage would also be understood but I never heard that actually used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;As for the answers which read the question as fuel usage, that would have been easy to answer: 'verbruik'.  ('Usage')  E.g. 'Het verbruik is 1:18'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How that is used might be a fun question on it own for this site. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastEditorUserId="2635" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T13:50:52.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T13:50:52.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32835" CreationDate="2016-07-21T09:42:57.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much messing about, research, cut hands and many a swear word I got it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK (where I'm from) something was recommended to me on another forum called Plus Gas. It's a penetration fluid, like WD40, but better. It's thicker and stays around much longer than WD40. I sprayed this on the hinge of the bracket and started to pull it back and forth. It was still a bit stiff but was moving more freely until I hit the bolt with a hammer. The alternator then became very loose. What I then noticed was the bolt was stuck in the alternator itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some six sided sockets and started to pull the ratchet towards me and push the alternator away from me (to help the movement). I did this for 30 minutes and didn't make much progress. Out of frustration I started hammering the bolt again, but I noticed that the bolt was actually moving. So I slammed it a few more times until it was flush with the bracket. I still couldn't get the bolt out though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a centre punch and took my lump hammer to it, and hammered the bolt all the way out of the alternator and bracket. The bolt has corroded fairly badly inside the alternator. It was also slightly bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crux of the situation though is that this bolt was fitted incorrectly by the previous owner (or their mechanic to be fair). The head of the bolt should have faced away from the engine, not towards it. However on reflection I'm not sure whether I'd have had a worse time removing the bolt if it was fitted properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yeah, Plus Gas (or 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF fluid), a centre punch and a lump hammer. That's what you need to remove an alternator from this car!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17232" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T09:42:57.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33187" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:11:08.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe by Mobil you are meaning engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your gaskets and oil seals in the engine which might be causing oil to leak towards other compartments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some motorcycles have a dedicated oil line running towards the valve for lubrication and a rupture on that line then a similar symptom can be seen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: Its highly unlikely that the oil will flow  towards the air filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T11:27:05.040" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T11:27:05.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33177" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:45:58.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that, almost certainly, the orientation of the flywheel relative to the position of the engine will be important.  Looking at the diagram, I'd guess you physically removed part number 7 to inspect what was inside.  Part numbers 3 and 2 look like some sort of electromagnetically wound induction coil and I assume that the wiring coming out of part number 2 is the low tension side for the ignition system.  Part number 4 looks like some kind of &quot;points&quot; system which is probably responsible for triggering the ignition event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also guess that the screws (part 9) fit through the elongated holes of part 7 which gives them some scope for fine adjustment.  You are almost certainly going to need to align the ignition timing events from the parts shown here to the engine position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd usually expect components like this to have either a &quot;keyway&quot; (which forced them to be fitted in the correct orientation) or that there would be some manufacturers marks somewhere in the body of the parts to line up.  If you can't find these or any other data regarding starting positions, I'd be tempted to try and time the ignition event to somewhere near Top Dead Centre (TDC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a four stroke engine, this is the point in the rotation of the engine that the inlet valve has closed and the piston has then traveled as far up the bore as it can go.  Once past TDC, the next valve to open will be the exhaust valve but this will not happen until after the piston has traveled down the bore.  On a two stoke engine, it's easier to establish TDC as this is the point that the piston is at the top of the bore and will go no further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be established by removing the spark plug and using something soft (that will not break off, I've used a drinks straw and a pencil in the past) to work out the piston position.  Once you've established TDC, make a small paint mark somewhere on the rotating parts of the engine so you can line it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you need to establish when the ignition event fires.  You need to be very careful here as you are dealing with high voltage and there is a shock hazard.  The preferred method is to use a timing light but assuming one is not available, you can hold the spark plug WITH INSULATED PLIERS against the engine block.  With the ignition on, tuning the flywheel (i.e. part 7) with retaining nut (part 16) either loose or removed so that only part 7 and not the shaft to which it is attached moves, should cause the plug to spark at some point in the rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't rotate part 7 without moving the shaft, this is why it's important to mark TDC somewhere.  Once you know the point at which the plug fires, you should be able to either refit part 7 in the orientation so that this takes place at around TDC or adjust parts 2 and 3 by loosening screws 9 and moving them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get no spark at all, check that the points are opening and closing as you are turning things over.  It's the closing / opening of the points that usually triggers the ignition event in a system like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided the engine is getting fuel, it should sound like it is at least trying to start with the ignition set at TDC.  You can adjust it a couple of degrees forwards or backwards in small steps upto around 10 degrees either side of TDC.  If the engine still won't run in these conditions, it's likely not the ignition timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson here has to be, take photos or make paint marks (preferably both) before taking something apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T11:45:58.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33179" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:49:09.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sounds like the switch on the automatic transmission has failed.  This tells the car what gear mode is selected and the car will only start if it's receiving the signal it's expecting.  I would be surprised if the whole transmission has failed, it definitely sounds like an electrical / electronic fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic insists the whole transmission has failed, I would strongly suggest you have an auto-electrician look at the vehicle and give you a second opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T11:49:09.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2016-07-21T11:51:13.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the technical term you are looking for is known as the Odometer Reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odometer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Odometer&lt;/a&gt; refers to the indicator in the car which displays the total distance that vehicle has traveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T11:51:13.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33187" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:10:11.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It seems you are describing an issue with the PCV Valve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to interpret what you are stating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the mobil from the engine flows towards the air filter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say mobil, you mean oil I believe.  Oil getting into your airbox, which contains your air filter, would come from your PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve.  This valve sits in your valve cover and has a hose that connects to the airbox.  Here are two basic possibilities for you to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have lots of positive pressure in your crankcase/engine it typically means that you have bad piston rings and exhaust gasses are getting past the rings and positively charging your crankcase.  As oil mist builds up in the engine during higher RPM running of the engine this oil mist can get past the PCV and into the airbox.  It then builds up and eventually gets sucked back into the the intake where it is burned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that your PCV valve is broken and allowing this oil mist to pass by it and get into the airbox.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leak Down Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can validate if the rings are bad by doing what is called a leak down test.  Here are some posts and instructions regarding what the test accomplishes and how to perform it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/26384/9164&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rings are allowing to much exhaust by then you will need to rebuild the top end of your motor by getting the next size overbore piston (1/4 mm) and rings have a machine shop bore your cylinders to match.  If the PCV valve is bad you will need to remove it from the valve cover and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T20:20:36.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33209" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:29:36.923" Score="7" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a new front drivers side window regulator in a 2000 Buick LeSabre. At a repair shop they said the part alone would cost $250, but after some research online it looked like prices ranged from around $30 to around $180.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an obvious reason for this price difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19978" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T22:43:41.217" Title="Window Regulator Price Disparity" Tags="|power-windows|buick|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33196" CreationDate="2016-07-21T17:55:37.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually maybe I will attempt to answer this. This is my &lt;em&gt;theory&lt;/em&gt;, note I am a consumer, not a seller / mechanic. I've just seen a similar pattern with my own vehicle (2001, Honda).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a few factors come into play here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OEM vs non-OEM parts: Equivalent parts manufactured by third-parties tend to be less expensive (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/buick-lesabre-window-regulator-2000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for example&lt;/a&gt;, and also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carparts.com/details/Buick/LeSabre/Replacement/Window_Regulator/2000/B491705.html?TID=gglpla&amp;amp;origin=pla&amp;amp;gclid=CIfjpviMhc4CFRBZhgodfMEDwA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price spread as car ages. I have found that as a vehicle gets older, for parts that were unique to that vehicle:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original manufacturer list prices tend to stay the same, so e.g. purchasing a part for a 2000 vehicle from the dealer in 2016 still costs the same amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wholesale OEM seller prices are less than dealer mark up, and do decrease somewhat over time, but not nearly as much (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/15231244&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sellers have parts sitting in warehouses and at this point are just trying to liquidate that stock. You'll find hugely discounted prices that decrease rapidly over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Independent sellers of new parts (e.g. sellers on eBay, etc.) for older vehicles tend to set fairly arbitrary but usually lower prices based on their own desire to get rid of the part / perception of its value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used parts vary wildly. Plus, if a vehicle's been sitting at a salvage yard for 10 years at some point they just want to get rid of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I know this is kind of random thought-dump form but hopefully it sheds some light. Looking forward to other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Personally&lt;/em&gt;, for no concrete reason, I generally go with wholesale new OEM parts for critical engine components, salvage yards for body and electrical, and dealer prices for really cheap parts that aren't worth the effort to find elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the window regulator, I don't know, those GE / ACDelco ($150-ish) replacements should be pretty reliable, but if you're doing the work yourself (no labor cost overhead) I'd definitely pop the $35 one in first. If it lasts a long time then you just saved yourself a bunch of money, and if doesn't you didn't lose much (and you can just replace it with another $35 one too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when I'm getting work done at a shop or dealer, for the expensive parts I always either buy the parts online first or tell them to tell me what parts they'd order then I tell them to hold off on the work and I go get the parts instead. Lately I've just taken to doing the diagnosis myself and only going to a shop if a) I don't have the tools to do the work or b) I can't find the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T00:27:33.487" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:27:33.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:03:55.467" Score="7" ViewCount="1536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into buying a set of steel rims for my '97 Camry (for winter tires). I was talking to a guy, who worked at an auto shop, who said generic steel rims aren't exactly good for cars (something about not perfectly fitting bolts or something, not really sure- I'm a automobile noobie), and that I was better off finding a second set of original alloy rims for the car (from another used Camry, perhaps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to know if this statement was BS, or if there was some validity that I didn't understand about what he was saying. I see all kinds of cars with generic steel rims driving around in the winter so they can't be that harmful. As long as I match up the exact specs of the steel rims to that of my car, I should be fine, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel rims are so much cheaper and easier to find then original alloy rims...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T20:30:07.180" Title="Are generic steel rims bad for car/tires?" Tags="|tires|camry|wheels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4839" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:37:10.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I lowered the rear end of a car is when I got body roll. So I would say stock springs is the best way, but if you want to lower your car then you should get strut and tower bars for the rear. I don't know if a new sway bar would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19981" LastEditorDisplayName="user9423" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T21:23:03.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T21:23:03.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33198" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:45:49.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer steel rims - less troubles with balancing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking about bolts for steel and aluminium wheels - they should have different bolts. Alloy wheel bolts have longer thread and cone shape (on the right). Steel rim bolts have shorter thread, and a spheric shape (on the left).&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1I3n2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1I3n2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you buy steel rims, make sure you buy bolts. Sometimes too long can hit something behind the wheel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:45:49.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33198" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:45:59.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower spec Toyota Camry's often had steel wheels as standard. It's very common to have a steel set with winter ties for winter use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 1997 car, it'll be harder to find a decent set of alloys than it will steel wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd ignore the 'guy in the auto shop'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:45:59.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33207" CreationDate="2016-07-21T20:25:48.773" Score="6" ViewCount="6460" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has recently been really hot and to my surprise on the hottest day of the year my ac was not working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to halfords to get the ac recharged however when they attached the pressure gauge it did not register anything, obviously with the car running and ac turned to max. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked for the compressor and it does kick in as you can hear the engine working harder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something like a block or a leak? Or is it that I havent recharged it for the past year (and I have no idea when the last time the person before me recharged it) might it be that its never charged? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other checks I can do? Or do I have to take it to a garage or BMW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressor kick in as the engine started reving and shaking... Like something in the back of the engine started... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll turn on and check along the line...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking of taking it for a service in case there are a lot of bits in the pipes and it is blocked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;_----------------------------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took it to the garage.. compressor doesn't appear to be moving. However there is literally nothing in terms of gas in the system at all!! So I will take it to halfords to fill it up .. the guy said the person  probably didn't screw it in and if there is nothing inside then how would it create pressure? Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19322" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T14:15:58.093" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T14:15:58.093" Title="BMW 3 series 320D ac blowing hot air" Tags="|ac|320d|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33177" CreationDate="2016-07-21T20:49:58.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Steve Matthews says, get your flywheel in a proper position, it shouldn't be able to fit it wrong way. Unless you have lost a part number 6 &quot;keyway&quot;. To me looks like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil 3 is a high voltage coil for your ignition,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;condenser 5 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trigger 4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flywheel 7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keyway 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of that should be enough to get a spark in a proper time. Condenser (5) screwed to earth, the wire of a condenser goes to a trigger moving part, it might be the end of a spring, which is bolted to a trigger plate (4) through plastic washers to keep away from earth. The coil (3), I believe, the wire with a ring terminal at the end, should be connected to the same trigger where the condenser connected. If that wire gives you 150 - 180 volts, then leave the other wire loose. If not, put on earth. Make sure that trigger &quot;lever&quot; touches the plate or any other earthed part only through terminals. The attach a extra wire to the same trigger, the 3rd wire :D and send it to a induction coil, which will give you enough for a spark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The idea is - when the trigger is OPEN, the coil 3 generates about 160v, and condenser boosts the power, sends it to a induction coil, which will hit the spark plug. When the trigger CLOSES, it is closed loop, nothing happens, no spark. For a start make a trigger gap about 1mm, and then go smaller while adjusting. The moment when the trigger opens is the ignition timing. Not when it closed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I might be wrong somewhere, you also might have a induction coil in there, but I don't see a place where to attach a Spark Plug Lead..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything not right let us know, we will get it running :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T20:49:58.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24499" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:23:54.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regenerative braking is only really useful on electric or hybrid cars for the simple reason that they have a way to make use of the energy stored. Also once you have an electric motor as part of the drive train regenerative braking is pretty much built in (at least in terms of hardware) as you simply use the existing motor(s) a a generator and divert the power generated to the battery for later use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence there is no point as all in using regenerative braking in anything other than a hybrid car, indeed having regenerative braking is a good definition of a hybrid car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is no reason why you couldn't fit a convention IC engine car with a regenerative braking system, unless you are going to use that power to drive the car then you haven't really achieved much as you are adding a lot of extra weight and complexity to store electrical energy that you can't use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the issue that on long highway/motorway journeys you may not do enough braking to meet even the small needs of the auxiliary electrical systems (lights, ignition, radio, charging the battery for starting etc) so you may not even get the advantage of not needing an alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T21:23:54.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33229" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:28:31.990" Score="3" ViewCount="4725" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friend has a 08/09 Nissan Rogue with the check engine light on.  Ran my OBD2 scanner on it and pulled a single code, P0444, which indicates per my search the Purge Control Solenoid Valve.  When I search for this my results are typically for the Nissan Altima.  So is the PCSV located under the car on the charcoal canister or in the engine bay?  When I do find the valve can it be ohm'd with a meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T20:07:01.357" Title="Where is the Nissan Rogue purge valve?" Tags="|nissan|purge-solenoid|rogue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33203" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:32:46.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; the compressor kick in? If not, I'm thinking your car doesn't have any refrigerant in it. If they put the gauges on the system and it didn't register anything, that's a pretty good sign it &lt;em&gt;doesn't have any refrigerant in the system&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car has completely lost its charge, this means there has been a catastrophic failure somewhere in the system ... it has lost its integrity and no longer is holding refrigerant. Unless you are an A/C mechanic, this is more than likely something which will need to go to the shop to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compressor did &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; kick in, then whomever put the gauges on the A/C system to check it didn't do a very good job of checking. There is no way it will kick in without refrigerant in the system. You can, however do a very easy check by touching the A/C lines right at the firewall (or as close as you can get to the firewall) as they go into and out of the body of the car. Feel the lines and see if one is cold and one is hot (or warm since you aren't getting any benefit from the cooling). If so, you're moving refrigerant and something is wrong inside the car, like there may be an issue with the hot/cold blend door not opening so the cold would be present in the cabin. You could possible dig into the dash of the car and replace this yourself, but it is a chore in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T21:32:46.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39225" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:47:19.877" Score="8" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a replacement male connector to fit this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.partsplaceinc.com/products/product-detail.aspx?sku=9066&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coolant level sensor&lt;/a&gt; from a 1989 VW Jetta. Finding replacement sensors is straightforward, but what does one do when repairing a missing connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRpZV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRpZV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;coolant level sensor connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6409" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T17:56:57.323" Title="Coolant Level Sensor Connector Replacement" Tags="|electrical|vw|wiring|sensor|connector|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33196" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:47:58.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are reasons you'll find the price disparity between what you'll find online or at the parts store versus what a shop will charge you for the same part. (I'll give you an anecdote after I answer this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most non-dealer shops buy there parts as cheap as they can get them. They may have a deal with a parts store to get a discount on parts if they buy their parts exclusively from a certain parts store. They then mark up the part for two reasons. First, obviously, to make money. If they mark the price up by 100% (yes, happens all the time), they make the money. Secondly, when marking up the part, they are ensuring should you bring the &quot;fix&quot; back, they are covered by the return. This gives the shop a little bit of leeway to cover any mistakes or bad parts. I guess they call it &quot;return work&quot; or something to that effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the anecdote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was helping diagnose a friend's Windstar (many moons ago, van had a quadzillion miles on it). She had taken the van to a shop to have it looked at and were going to charge her $1800 for the fix. This included two of the three pieces which go into intake manifold, plus a bunch of miscellaneous parts. I went online and did some research as to what might be going on and discovered there was a technical bulletin on the vehicle which said there are eight bolts in the base part of the manifold which have some sort of grommet which seals the lower intake manifold where the bolt sticks through. The grommets on the original bolts put there by Ford would deteriorate and cause a vacuum leak into the intake, causing all kinds of idle issues and lean conditions, etc. The kit to fix this was something like $120. I also looked up the other parts online to discover they were doing just as you said, charging about double the amount for each part. When I went back to the shop to pick up the van and take it home, I asked the mechanic and the service writer the two big questions: 1) Did you realize there was a TSB on this exact problem and the course of action wasn't going to fix it? and 2) Why the huge markup on the parts? To the first they had no answer. To the second was just what I told you above, that they needed to charge the amount to cover return work and the like. In other words, they were just scalping their customers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly every parts place I have ever dealt with has some type of return policy for parts. If something is broken upon receipt or installation (not due to installer failure) doesn't work, you take it back and get a refund or a replacement. IOW, there's already a warranty on the part. I wouldn't buy one which didn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, the shop is just scalping their customers. I wouldn't go back there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T21:47:58.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-21T22:25:22.093" Score="5" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago my 2003 Hyundai Elantra's check engine light came on.  Afterward I noticed that a couple minutes into my drive it would slow and although I pressed on the accelerator it seemed to barely react.  Over the weeks the problem has continued to get worse.  Now when I start my car I wait for about 3 minutes for it to do this same behavior.  The RPMs drop down and it acts as though it may stall and it runs very rough.  I leave it in park the whole time.  After about 30 seconds it seems to correct itself and suddenly the RPMs rise as though I'm flooring it for a couple seconds before dropping.  After this my car runs fine for my 45 minute commute both in-town and on highway driving.  I haven't been able to find anything else on forums that sound like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19984" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T01:22:28.457" Title="Car low RPMs nearly stalling a couple minutes after startup" Tags="|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33179" CreationDate="2016-07-22T00:42:29.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi everyone  here give you very good advice &#xA;If your car drive and park then no cranking .&#xA;First try to start in Neutral &#xA;If it starts &#xA;Then you  have a bad  Neutral Start Switch  .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19944" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:42:29.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33179" CreationDate="2016-07-22T02:48:10.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like there's a few things going on, and the comments are all over the place. They're all good though! :) Here's what you need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - &lt;strong&gt;Check engine light is on:&lt;/strong&gt; The computer is trying to tell you what's wrong. Get the code read by the shop and post back here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - &lt;strong&gt;Car quietly not starting:&lt;/strong&gt; As has been suggested by others, this is most likely the &quot;neutral-start inhibitor,&quot; a tiny little switch that will prevent your car from starting in other positions than &quot;Park&quot; or &quot;Neutral.&quot; Your car may very well be in &quot;Park,&quot; but if the switch can't see that, it wll not let your starter do it's thing. Three things you can do to diagnose this and work around it. If any of the following 3 techniques get the car to start, the issue is the switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply the hand-brake, turn your key to &quot;on&quot; without starting, press the brake pedal and shift to &quot;neutral,&quot; now try to start the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if that didn't work, try hand-brake, key to &quot;on&quot; without starting, press the brake pedal and now shift all the way down to &quot;L&quot; then back to &quot;Park&quot;, at least twice. When you're back in &quot;Park&quot; for the second or third time, try to start the car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if that didn't work, your last try is to find the &quot;sweetspot&quot; in &quot;Park.&quot; My '94 Nissan had this issue (still does), where the shifter would be in &quot;Park&quot;, but it could move around a little bit while still staying in &quot;Park.&quot; When in &quot;Park,&quot; gently push the shifter as far forward (towards your heater controls) as you can and hold it there while trying to start. If that doesn't work, try gently pulling it as far back (towards &quot;reverse&quot;) and hold it there while trying to start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - &lt;strong&gt;Car lurching and lunging in low gear:&lt;/strong&gt; if this is new, you may have a transmission problem (your torque converter may be locking-up when it shouldn't). If you've just used low-gear for the first time and noticed this, it may be normal as some cars are really jerky in low-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - &lt;strong&gt;Grinding belt noise:&lt;/strong&gt; you may have a pulley that seized, preventing the belt from circulating properly. If that's the case, most starters are not powerful enough to turn your engine over (that noise that it's supposed to make when trying to start) if a belt is seized. Have your belts removed to see if the car can start easily now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T02:48:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33263" CreationDate="2016-07-22T06:15:08.107" Score="1" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the oil on my 2015 Honda Accord LX myself for the first time. Following a YouTube video, I reset the Maintenance Minder. The problem is that I didn't note the extra codes that show up on the Maintenance Minder to perform that maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find what those codes were. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do this from the dash or with an OBDII scanner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19987" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T07:00:21.860" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T21:15:11.597" Title="Honda Accord Maintenance Minder accidental reset/ what to do now?" Tags="|honda|maintenance|obd-ii|accord|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17037" CreationDate="2016-07-22T08:50:04.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;use a long extension bar on your ratchet and stay far away from the oil coming out, then clean the socket, plug and surrounding area with a rag of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19989" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T08:50:04.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T09:26:00.953" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mercedes 1995 C180 which is giving me a headache. The problem is a recent one, and is basically that the indicators and wipers sometimes fail. The strange thing is that the problem only surfaces when I've been driving the car (for 20mins+), shut it down and then tried to start it again (for instance going to the supermarket). And the likeliness of this happening depends on for how long I've been driving the car. Both the indicators and wipers would fail. Sometimes the wipers would kick in even without being manually triggered (there's no rain sensor on the car). It'd take a few tries to switch them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thought appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14866" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T11:03:15.987" Title="Indicators &amp; wiper failure after running for a while" Tags="|mercedes-benz|windshield-wipers|indicators|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T09:51:25.557" Score="4" ViewCount="14233" Body="&lt;p&gt;My neighbor and I purchased an Activa 3g at the same time. When my bike is in idle (just after immediate start) as well in running condition, it sounds little bigger/ rough noisy like dub dub... Also, the accelerator is not smooth to hand. But I checked very carefully that my neighbour's bike is sounding very smooth and soft (not much noisy) while it in idle/running. I can hear my bike sound from 200 mars away also when it is coming to stop condition. This is not same with neighbor's bike. Even when their bike is close to us it's sound is not very audible. I can say definitely there is some difference in engine sound in my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this and how can it be fixed? I told the Honda dealer while I went to the scheduled service and he said he did it. But he did not fix it, the noise is the same. What should I do to get soft and smooth sound from the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19992" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T04:30:58.430" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T10:42:15.367" Title="Activa engine noise" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|noise|activa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33218" CreationDate="2016-07-22T10:01:48.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When my bike is in idle (just after immediate start) as well in running condition, it sounds little bigger/ rough noisy like dub dub...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can hear my bike sound from 200 mars away also when it is coming to stop condition. This is not same with neighbor's bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a telltale sign of an exhaust leak. Have the exhaust inspected for cracks or leaks, especially before the muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where the size and position of the exhaust leak it can explain the non-smooth throttle response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T07:15:30.127" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T07:15:30.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33223" CreationDate="2016-07-22T10:38:29.773" Score="5" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am having hero passion pro new model in the morning when i start my bike with kick i have on the choke the bike started without no hesitation but when i pull of the choke after 15 seconds &#xA;and restarted it ,its not restarting with reserve or in an on state since the fuel is full its about 8 litres petrol guys please help i am unable to start my bike with on or reserve its only getting started on&#xA;choke and i have read putting on choke and riding is harmful for a bike it takes lot of petrol and not good for an engine &#xA;how it can be restarted with choke as off &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19994" LastEditorUserId="19994" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T10:55:40.693" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:48:39.073" Title="Hero passion pro India Bike is only get started on choke" Tags="|motorcycle|cold-start|choke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T10:55:49.383" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2001 model Lincoln Town Car with 4.6L engine. It shows error codes P0302 and P0401. I know little about cars. Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it. Thanks in advance for your answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T10:55:49.383" Title="How to fix P0302 and P0401 error codes for Lincoln Town Car 2001?" Tags="|lincoln|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33216" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:03:15.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the indicator relay is faulty, this relay is also responsible for the wiper and heating of the rear window.&#xA;In the fuse box in the engine department you can find the relay, it should look like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVgMx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVgMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T11:03:15.987" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33220" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:38:45.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the choke ON to start a cold engine. Once it is running, set it to PARTIAL until the engine is warm. Once the engine has been running a few minutes, set the choke to OFF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choke helps the engine run rich. This is necessary when the engine is cold. The engine will start easiest with the choke on. The engine will run best when warm with the choke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T11:38:45.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T11:55:53.907" Score="3" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm pretty sure I've got a failing fifth gear synchronizer in my manual transmission ( 5th only engages between about 65 - 72 k/h ) and was wondering if something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ARTZPO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lucas Transmission Fix&lt;/a&gt; can provide a temporary solution until I'm ready to get the syncro replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T22:46:04.303" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:46:04.303" Title="Can Lucas Transmission Fix provide a temporary fix for a failing syncro?" Tags="|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:05:24.873" Score="3" ViewCount="5700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Hyundai&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Accent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 1.6L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: P0300,P0304&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19996" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T22:28:09.430" Title="How to fix P0300 and P0304 error codes for Hyundai Accent 2009?" Tags="|hyundai|accent|p0300|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:02:21.050" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Cadillac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Catera&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 3.0L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: P0335,P0727&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user620155" LastEditorUserId="6536" LastEditDate="2018-06-07T17:26:04.410" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T17:26:04.410" Title="How to fix P0335 and P0727 error codes for Cadillac Catera 2000?" Tags="|dtc|cadillac|code|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:26:22.350" Score="6" ViewCount="15665" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Tata with a Quadrajet BS IV (90 ps) diesel engine was brought in for low power. When starting the engine in a no load condition the turbo boost pressure is 950 mBar. When the engine accelerates the boost pressure dropped. Regarding this issue the service manager said the turbocharger is not working properly, so it was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After installing a new (re-man) turbocharger the boost pressure increased and the maximum is now 1.3 Bar. The service manager says this is too low, the minimum spec is 1.7 Bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before replacing the turbocharger again are there other things that should be checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19997" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T12:54:46.633" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T04:16:56.733" Title="Troubleshooting low boost pressure" Tags="|troubleshooting|diesel|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33227" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:31:21.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought, based on the boost dropping as you rev the engine before the turbo was replaced is that there is an inlet restriction. Something like a dirty air filter or damaged inlet piping. That could also cause the replacement turbo to fail to deliver full boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One quick check for this would be to remove the compressor inlet pipe from the turbocharger. That would also bypass any sensors upstream of the compressor – for instance a mass air flow (MAF) sensor if the engine has one, so it is possible that the ECU could set codes, or put the engine in a reduced output (limp) mode as a result of the loss of the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As rpmerf mentioned a restriction on exhaust flow could also cause low boost. This could be caused by a blocked catalytic converter. It can be a real pain to open up the exhaust experimentally, but if the car has an O2 sensor or some other port in the exhaust system you can measure the exhaust back pressure to get a feel for how restricted the flow is. Ideally you'd compare the value to a similar car with a working turbocharger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T15:26:05.707" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T15:26:05.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33206" CreationDate="2016-07-22T12:34:42.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's under the hood on the right side of engine compartment. Unplug the connector, figure out which side is the computer controlled ground. Backprobe the ground wire. put a vacuum pump on it and ground the solenoid. Do this when the engine is hot and do it several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check per tsb ntb05-053 as well. It covers harness rub through by the wiper motor setting any of 6 evap codes including p0444. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spec on the solenoid is 35 ohms with no mention of temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBjY4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBjY4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anQzR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/anQzR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:04:34.970" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:04:34.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33231" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:15:44.247" Score="2" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install these new powerful headlights but they use around 100 watts. I have a 12v 45Ah battery which gives me around 540wh. Now I know that's not even half but when you factor in all the other electrical components I feel it could really dip into my battery and go over the half mark of power consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is a Amstron 12V / 45Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery w/ R Terminal for a Dodge Challenger 2013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T13:25:50.373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T14:30:15.573" Title="Will new 100 watt headlights be too much on battery?" Tags="|electrical|battery|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33230" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:25:29.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the real question here isn't &quot;can my battery do it,&quot; but &quot;can my &lt;em&gt;alternator&lt;/em&gt; do it?&quot; All of the normal running load of your car should be supplied by the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is there to start the engine and to provide for high short term loads (e.g., the horn or maybe lights at idle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can think of the battery as storage for electrical power, it handles loads when the alternator is off-line (when the engine isn't running) and it also provides reserve capacity when short term electrical requirements of the car can't be met by the alternator (for example when the engine is idling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator provides power to recharge the battery after starting (or any other time when the battery has been drawn down), but it must also provide enough power to handle the normal loads of the car – otherwise just driving the car will drain the battery and eventually the battery will be drawn down to the point where it can't provide the power to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T14:30:15.573" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T14:30:15.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24848" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:32:02.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 2002 Santa Fe and we were smelling gas whenever we filled up. Tried a new gas cap, checked the lines, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually we checked the filler neck. On the 2002 there was a cover to 'protect' the filler neck in the wheel well, but dirt could fly up and catch inside the cover. When I removed it, I saw the area where the filler neck was packed with dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dirt had retained moisture, and rusted out the filler neck. So, when we would fill up gas would soak into the dirt, thus the smell. But the dirt was enough to keep any leaks from dripping to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never did get around checking the fuel filter (replaced it with a 2010 Tuscon), but replacing the filler neck solved the gas smell problem for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19998" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T13:32:02.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33235" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:50:26.477" Score="1" ViewCount="17183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do The amp hour ratings on all car batteries really matter as much if your car alternator is working well? Ah is the capacity but if you have reliable charging do it still matter as much? Cause its going to keep charging the car battery so as long as your not drawling over 50% or 60% you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T14:21:04.827" Title="Do Ah in Car batteries matter as much if your alternator is working correctly?" Tags="|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33227" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:55:58.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addition to dlu's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for restrictions in the intake and exhaust.  You can try bypassing the intercooler.  For the exhaust, you can temporarily set up an open pipe out of the turbo.  either way, something is restricting the turbo from keeping up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T13:55:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33233" CreationDate="2016-07-22T14:12:54.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing your battery has to do it start the car, and act as a 'buffer' for the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting the car is by far the highest load on the battery.  Most car batteries are rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) to determine how well they will turn the starter when it is cold out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery stores power, accessories draw power, the alternator feeds power to the battery.  The battery keeps a steady supply of power.  The alternator's power isn't always 'clean', but the output from the battery is.  When you use something like the horn, there is a spike in power draw, and the alternator is not able to handle spikes well, so the battery picks up the slack.  At idle the alternator is not putting out full power, so the battery may need to pick up the slack.  This will drain the battery slightly, but the alternator will recharge it once the vehicle is at higher RPM again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you use accessories with the engine off, you are drawing from the battery.  Common items are electric locks, alarms, automatic lights, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the amp hour (ah) rating does not matter much as long as you do not use accessories with the engine off.  The main thing you need to worry about is your alternator.  You can watch the voltage to determine if the alternator is able to keep up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;engine off - ~12.5-12.8&#xA;engine on - ~13.8-14.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn on your headlights, fog light, radio, AC, window defroster, then check the voltage and it is lower than 13.8, it means your alternator is having a hard time keeping up.  You can try reving the engine to about 2000 RPM to see if it will keep up better while you are moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note on voltage dropping at idle.  I've had several cars with underdrive pulleys.  They spin the accessories slower to reduce load on the engine.  I would always see my headlights dim at idle indicating that the voltage was dropping.  Everything was fine once I started moving.  Overall, I never had issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T14:21:04.827" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T14:21:04.827" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T15:39:24.417" Score="4" ViewCount="46654" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Wednesday I noticed my car's temp gauge reading at bottom while driving down the highway. The air conditioner was also non-functional. Each of these components were working fine the day before. The car continued operation, and I was able to drive it to a mechanic later that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mechanic was unable to diagnose the problem, but also mentioned the thermostat couldn't close, causing too much coolant to flow and the engine to run much cooler than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I drove away from the mechanic the temp gauge showed the engine heating up short of where it normally is, and then malfunctioned during the drive. There was also a check engine light, but that went away on its own too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess... what could cause the temperature gauge, AC, and thermostat to fail almost at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Car is a 2006 Pontiac G6 GTP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="13024" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T15:51:02.810" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T20:35:43.123" Title="What could cause the engine temperature gauge and AC to fail simultaneously?" Tags="|ac|coolant|pontiac|temperature|g6|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33242" CreationDate="2016-07-22T16:29:43.860" Score="6" ViewCount="9067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I put a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/counterp_v4_i3_2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;coil-on-plug&lt;/a&gt; (direct ignition) system in, let's say, a 1968 Ford Mustang GT? How much would I have to change? Could I add this setup to any gasoline engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T22:24:25.593" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T11:34:19.167" Title="Can I put a coil-on-plug system in any car?" Tags="|engine-theory|coil-on-plug|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33225" CreationDate="2016-07-22T16:38:37.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are misfire codes. You've likely got a problem with either the ignition or fuel delivery systems (or both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would venture to propose that if you &quot;know little about cars&quot; then you are not equipped to diagnose issues with the coils, spark plugs, ignition wires, injectors, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I would not usually propose throwing parts at a problem without some investigation as to the root cause, the age of your car means it is likely due for new spark plugs and ignition wires anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with buying a repair manual, then proceed with replacing the plugs and wires as these are common causes of misfires. Injectors and coil pack would be next on my checklist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T16:38:37.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33224" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:16:45.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The synchronizers need a specific amount of friction in the transmission fluid. If the transmission fluid is too slippery (more friction reducers) then the synchronizers will get consumed. If the transmission fluid has not enough friction reducers the gear wheels can get consumed, especially if the transmission would be a transaxle (differential and gears in one package).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that with some additive you would be able to exactly hit the needed &quot;slipiness&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first try i would change the transmission fluid.&#xA;Please consult your manual: Should it state that you need an GL4 type of transmission fluid do not put in anything other than an GL4. No GL5, no GL4+ and no GL4/5. If you can't find the indication for the needed transmission fluid you could consult the &quot;oil-finder&quot; homepage of castrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation: GL5, GL4+ or GL4/5 have a much higher level of friction reducers than an normal GL4, thereby damaging synchronizers designed for GL4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:16:45.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33236" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:19:29.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the very least, the thermostat should be changed since it really isn't an expensive or intensive repair. Was this done while you were at the mechanic? This would certainly solve the temp gauge and engine temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe (not 100% sure) this issue would affect the operation of the AC (it would with the heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:19:29.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33238" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:20:52.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You CAN.  The question is how much time and effort you want to invest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your mustang, you have either points, or an electronic pickup (Hall Effect Ignition or HEI) that utilizes a single coil powering a distributor which distributes power to each of the spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Coil on Plug, you would: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;a coil for each cylinder&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Something to drive the coils (an ECU)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sensors for the ECU to determine crank/cam position and engine vacuum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;something the sensor can read - likely a crank pulley or harmonic balancer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;wiring harness to go between the ECU, sensors, and coils.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some way to program it.  Advance / RPM, Advance / Vacuum&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would not be a simple swap.  HEI ignitions are very common and do a good job.  Unless you are going for a full fuel injection conversion, I think it would be best to stick with a HEI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found one conversion kit on summit racing, but its for a honda B series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2860/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2860/overview/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to do such a setup with something like a arduino.  You have 2 inputs (crank and map sensor) and 8 outputs (coils).  Write up a little program that can determine TDC for each cylinder based on the number of cylinders and the pulse width of the crank sensor.  From there you can add advance and add conditions for more/less advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastEditorUserId="10147" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T17:28:06.467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:28:06.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33238" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:22:29.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every petrol/gasoline engine have a coil. It only might be located in different places and working on different voltages. Some have 1 single coil for all cylinders, some have individual coils - 1 for each plug, all in one case; some have individual, fitted straight on a spark plug, no leads.. So yes, you can fit. But why? What's on your mind..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:22:29.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33220" CreationDate="2016-07-22T17:48:39.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have a carburetor engine, and you need to adjust your idle, make a richer air/fuel mix. Your Idle mix is too lean, so you can't start it. When you get it richer, you might need to adjust a throttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have only 1 screw on a carburetor, it'll be a throttle adjustment for idle. Try to start it warm with opened choke and a bit of a increased throttle (1/4 - 1/2 of a handle). If it starts, just turn that one screw in a little. If it starts okay after this, but idles at too high revs, you'll have to go back to lower idle and get used to start with opened throttle.. Unfortunately cheap carbs don't have the best adjustment options...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T17:48:39.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:04:01.443" Score="3" ViewCount="10018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 09 Mazda 6 that I purchased used about 3 years ago. For the past couple of months or so it has been making a soft, metallic rattling whenever I accelerated at low speeds (usually when I accelerated even a little bit at about 20MPH). For the past two days the sound has gotten much louder. When I googled the issue the two most common causes seemed to be engine knock or a loose heat shield. The noise sounds like its coming from below the floor of the car, not the engine. How do I check if the heat shield is loose? And if it is loose, what do I need to do to fix it? Or should I just take it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20005" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:51:19.077" Title="09 Mazda 6: Metallic rattling sound when accelerating at low speeds" Tags="|mazda-6|rattle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33248" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:21:15.103" Score="6" ViewCount="1758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Suzuki Forenza Wagon where I recently cleaned the engine compartment. I was a little careless during the cleaning and water got in under the spark plug wires to sit around the top of the spark plugs in the head. As can be imagined this caused a terrible misfire problem for the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I proceeded to remove the water, replace the plugs, and replace the plug wires after this. The misfire improved and the engine runs okay most of the time. However, I still experience a severe bogging down of the engine once in awhile while accelerating (especially onto the interstate or up hills) where the car refuses to accelerate until it seems to kick itself and the rpms jump up before the car accelerates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: could getting the fuel injectors and/or coil pack wet have ruined them and would this cause the intermittent acceleration issues? I have used fuel injector cleaner a couple of times through the gas tank in an effort to remove residual water. This seems to mildly help at best. Thanks in advance for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:32:18.563" Title="Can Getting Fuel Injectors or Ignition Coils Wet Ruin Them?" Tags="|suzuki|misfire|ignition-coil|fuel-injectors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33245" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:27:05.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check the heat shield, you'll have to raise the car up so that you can get underneath it and locate the exhaust system. Here is a picture of a corroded heat shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjTPa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjTPa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to move the heat shield with your hand if it's loose (do this while the car is cool, mind you). If you want an easy fix, I usually just self-tap a short screw into the loose heat shield area so that it sits snugly against the exhaust again. It's not recommended that you remove a heat shield completely without replacing it as it is actually a very useful component. The exhaust system gets extremely hot so keeping that heat contained and away from vital areas on the car is very important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:27:05.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33246" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:32:18.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure about your spark plugs, it surely is a coil pack. 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spark plug does not give a spark, but the coil is good, and you don't replace the plug, it will ruin the coil. And even when you replace spark plug, it still will misfire, as you say, on acceleration until certain RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:32:18.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:46:48.690" Score="2" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there are books/articles or perhaps an open source project on the theory and design of engine controllers (ECUs)? It seems like designing an ECU could be a fun project and I'm also curious to know how they work and I think it would be helpful to be able to think about how ECUs typically work when troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:57:43.420" Title="Engine Controller Design" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33245" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:51:19.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the car up so you can &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; get under it. Either jack it up and rest it on &lt;strong&gt;jack stands&lt;/strong&gt;, or drive it up on &lt;strong&gt;wheel ramps&lt;/strong&gt;, or park one side of the car on a &lt;strong&gt;curb&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last 2 options require starting the engine, so let the car sit for quite a while before getting underneath it. The engine may be cold, but exhaust gets hot faster than most people think. Once under there, poke around the heat shields, see which ones are loose. For most cars, the heat shield is in several sections (from front to back), and there are 2 &quot;layers&quot; of heat shields: one &lt;strong&gt;above&lt;/strong&gt; the exhaust pipe to keep the heat away from the car, one &lt;strong&gt;below&lt;/strong&gt; the exhaust pipe to prevent you from starting grass fires when you park off the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper layer is absolutely required, if it's loose tighten it either with screws as recommend in the other answer, or find how it got loose in the first place (broken or loose fastener, or rusted away from the fastener) and address that. The lower layer, it's your call. I don't ever park on grass, so when mine came loose, they got removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:51:19.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33249" CreationDate="2016-07-22T18:57:43.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into this myself for a project and found an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diyefi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;open-source ECU&lt;/a&gt;. It's been ported to &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=55&amp;amp;t=1568&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;39 different vehicles&lt;/a&gt; so far, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=55&amp;amp;t=1838&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 of which&lt;/a&gt; are claimed to be daily-drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:57:43.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34827" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:03:57.527" Score="7" ViewCount="9633" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you are done putting gas in your car, is there any leftover gas in the hose between the nozzle and up to the level of the tank opening (below the red line in the image below)? To be clearer, think about the &quot;communicating vessels&quot; concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A follow up question, do gas pumps use pressure to ensure that all gas is pumped in the car tank and no gas is left in the hose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSe5F.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSe5F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19474" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T21:00:14.017" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T21:35:21.743" Title="Leftover gas in the gas pump due to hose design" Tags="|fuel-tank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33236" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:04:07.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely scenario is that you only have a single malfunction: your thermostat. If it's open all the time, the engine will take much longer to get up to temperature (as you've noticed), and some/most AC systems are completely paranoid when the engine isn't at it's operating temperature or isn't cooling normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get your thermostat replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:04:07.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33252" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:10:54.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it mostly is filled up with fuel. That's why when I was a moped-warrior I always lifted the hose up after filling, to make sure I get extra fuel :) You only have to prepay or set it to a fuel amount you want to buy, so it stops pumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:10:54.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33225" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:17:22.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the other answer, the most likely cause is spark plugs ($15-$20 for a full set) or coils (about $20 each). A repair manual (Haynes or Chilton) that is specific to your vehicle will cost about $20-$30 and will tell you not only how to do this, but many other repair tasks that you are getting raped for at a mechanic shop, like changing the bulbs for brake lights and turn signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools needed for this are very rudimentary, and you may have them already. A ratchet with a set of sockets, or a set of wrenches, ideally both. For spark plugs, you will need a spark plug socket, ratchet and ratchet extension. Many &quot;ratchet and socket&quot; toolkits have a spark plug socket included. If you need tools, pawnshops are a great place to get wrenches and sockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked on a Hyundai Accent before for this specific problem (I think it was a 2008), you will need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the plastic engine cover (I think the bolts are 10 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Those 4 black things are the coils, twist and yank them out one at a time (they are really on there). Only ever have one of them out of the engine at any given time: each coil goes to a specific plug, otherwise the timing will be completely off and the engine will run like crap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look into the deep hole in the engine, what you see if the top of the spark plug. Use the spark plug socket, extension bar and ratchet to unscrew it and remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the gap of the new spark plug (you'll need a $3 spark plug gapper tool) and screw it in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the coil back in place and move to the next spark plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:17:22.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:33:55.087" Score="7" ViewCount="72182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to reset my check engine light to see if a problem I think I fixed resurfaces, so I disconnected my negative lead from the post. When I reconnected the lead the car refused to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally it will click for a few seconds when I crank, and then there is nothing. Most times there is just nothing from the get go in terms of engine sounds. All the dash lights come on, the headlights come on bright, and the radio comes on. The only noise I hear from the car when I crank (besides the occasional clicking) is a sort of &quot;hiss&quot; that I think is the fuel pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only oddity I've noticed is that the lead seems to be a tad loose on the post but it is as tight as the screw will go. I tried shimming around it with some aluminum foil (as someone suggested me) but that did not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced this issue or have any thoughts? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I have not yet jumped it or tested the battery. I am waiting on my girlfriend to get home to do those things since I need a working car for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: Unable to comment since I'm new. @Arturs, I only had to disconnect the clamp on the post, nothing else. I looked for broken wires and all I found was on one of the two wires leading off the negative lead the cladding had broken open in a small spot, but the wires inside looked fine. The problem I was checking on was something with my exhaust/emissions from a long time ago, I just hadn't gotten around to resetting the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT3: @Ben I mean when the key is in the start position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT4: I may have found the culprit. The negative terminal on my battery leads off to two locations: a wire to the body and a wire to part of the metal on the engine. Using a multimeter I'm reasonably certain that the wire going to the engine isn't grounding the engine properly. Am I correct in thinking that means the starter isn't getting grounded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20008" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:12:45.430" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T21:08:00.120" Title="Car Won't Start After Disconnecting and Reconnecting Ground Cable" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|mercury|sable|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24844" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:44:54.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all Diesels are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My former car, a 1994 VW Passat 1.9 TDI had only one fuel pump in the engine bay. This pump was responsible for several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bring fuel from the fuel tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raise the pressure to the injection pressure (approximately 600 bar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distribute pressured fuel to each injector in the correct order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no electric pump to &quot;push&quot;, it was just the main pump which had to &quot;suck&quot; fuel from the tank and sucking is worse (in terms of efficiency) than pushing (no pun intended). Therefore whenever I had to change the fuel filter I had to carefully fill it up with fuel before installing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer Diesels (be it common-rail or unit-injector system) usually have at least one electric fuel pump (my current common-rail TDI has two electric pumps and a mechanical high pressure pump) which aid this task a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still they don't fix things completely. They still need to be activated using a diagnostic tool (for VW, TDIs there's a VCDS software pack along with an OBD-2 interface which can be used to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9lDHbxvmxY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;prime the whole circuit&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, even if the pump is activated shortly using the ignition, this won't be enough to fill an empty fuel filter, or even push out a lot of air in the circuit. You will need to activate them using the diagnostic tool, or, some might connect them directly to a 12 V battery (I don't recommend).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons for this necessity stand in a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diesel fuel is a bit &quot;thicker&quot; than gasoline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fuel filter is larger and having it emptied requires more effort to refill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high pressure pump is usually lubricated with the Diesel fuel itself and it is much more sensitive to lack of lubrication (i.e. running dry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="108" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:44:54.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33227" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:52:24.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is the turbo pressure regulated in these cars? If there is a linkage that actuates the wastegate maybe it needs adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T19:52:24.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33268" CreationDate="2016-07-22T19:54:44.180" Score="6" ViewCount="3824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is brake fluid especially toxic or is it about the same as dirty oil (not very toxic in trace amounts or just occasional human exposure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how much effort I should put in cleaning up a DOT 3 brake fluid spill that happened a year ago. Thank you for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16481" LastEditorUserId="16481" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T23:16:19.367" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T23:16:19.367" Title="How toxic is brake fluid?" Tags="|cleaning|brake-fluid|toxins|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33262" CreationDate="2016-07-22T20:20:38.743" Score="11" ViewCount="3382" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1998 Honda Civic LX is equipped with the 4-speed automatic transmission. Before I looked this up, I decided to count the number of upshifts from a stop, and I counted four, not three. This mystery &quot;fifth gear&quot; happens when the engine speed is around 2000 RPM in 4th and the shift brings it down to around ~1400. The kickdown for this &quot;gear&quot; is very sensitive – even slightly pushing on the throttle &quot;downshifts&quot; the car to fourth and the engine speed continues from 2000, rather than ~1400. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19818" LastActivityDate="2019-03-19T16:56:01.133" Title="Mysterious &quot;5th&quot; Gear on a 4-Speed Automatic?" Tags="|honda|automatic-transmission|civic|shifting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33198" CreationDate="2016-07-22T20:30:07.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the fact that it's &quot;steel&quot; that is the potential issue.  It's the &quot;generic&quot; part.  Toyotas want hubcentric wheels.  If you have the wrong bore size (too large), then you've turned it into lugcentric and run a higher risk of breaking wheelstuds/having balance/vibration issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="644" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T20:30:07.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33260" CreationDate="2016-07-22T20:34:00.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission has a lock up torque converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque converter sits between the engine and transmission.  It is kind of like a clutch on a manual transmission car.  When the engine is idle, it is barely engaged, so the engine will not stall.  It will engage harder and until a certain RPM.  Torque converters will always have some slip in them until thy engage the lockup feature.  Once the lockup is engage, there is no more slip, so the engine RPM matches the transmissions input shaft.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T20:34:00.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33214" CreationDate="2016-07-22T21:15:11.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never really checked but it wouldn't be anything you could do from generic obd2 you would need a scan tool that could talk to either the cluster computer or whatever other computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your service manual booklet it should tell you what needs to be checked/replaced based on mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T21:15:11.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33256" CreationDate="2016-07-22T21:42:23.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symptoms that you're describing sound like a poor ground connection for the starter motor. The starter draws &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; more power (i.e., current) than any other load. If you don't have a good solid connection it is likely that the motor won't be able to run, or won't develop enough torque to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery posts are slightly tapered and the slight looseness you describe makes me think that the ground terminal may be upside down on the battery post. That could explain both the looseness and the difficulty getting the starter motor to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Edit 4 to the question is indeed the probable cause. Without a good ground to the engine you almost certainly don't have a good ground for the starter motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T22:14:02.430" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T22:14:02.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33265" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:04:53.463" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T22:04:53.463" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:04:53.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33266" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:04:53.463" Score="0" Body="Electrical components that monitor or control the engine and other vehicle systems, or that provide entertainment, information, or network access. Engine Control Units (ECUs), their sensors, radios, navigation systems, and rain sensors are examples of *electronic* components. Compare with *electrical* components which distribute, switch, and consume electricity as a source of power – such as the battery, alternator, fuses, lights, starter, and sparkplugs." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T03:36:29.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T03:36:29.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33238" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:31:58.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest conceptual difference between a conventional coil-distributor-spark-plug ignition system and a system like coil-on-plug is the management of the spark and spark timing. A coil-on-plug system allows an Engine Control Unit (ECU) to manage the spark with low-voltage signals controlling the individual coils. In your hypothetical '68 Mustang there is no ECU (unless you add one), so you would need find another method to initiate the spark and control advance. It might be possible to do this using the distributor either with switches or with a sensor and electronic switching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;seems&lt;/strong&gt; doable and like it might be a fun project. But engines and engine controls have come a long way since the '60s and you may find that there are a number of complicating factors…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:31:58.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33259" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:33:25.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most brake fluids are not terribly dangerous. Throw sand on it to absorb anything left, use a grease-cutting cleaner to get rid of the stain. You may wish to try brake cleaner and paper towels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:33:25.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33256" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:37:52.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car has a thief-deterrent (start inhibitor) or a remote starter, it may have been buggered up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are simpler methods to reset your check engine light. Most code readers will do this, and many cars have an onboard procedure that will blink the codes and then reset the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:37:52.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-22T23:00:40.513" Score="3" ViewCount="4654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Civic. When I bought the car, the AC compressor was unplugged. I plugged it back in and it did not engage. I checked the pressure and it was a little bit low. I jumped the relay with the pressure gauge on and watched the pressure drop when the compressor kicked on. I added some refrigerant but it eventually leveled out and when I pulled the jumper out, the pressure spiked to 120+ PSI on the low side. The clutch does not engage with the relay though the relay doesn't looked charred or broken externally. Is this a problem with the compressor? It's still not blowing air though it appears to affect the pressure when it is engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20011" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T08:36:36.480" Title="AC Compressor running but no cold air?" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T00:10:10.367" Score="4" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a few questions regarding the force of a typical engine brake:&#xA;1.Which parts of my car influence its numerical value? &#xA;2.Is there a formula, which enables me to predict the numerical value, assuming, that I'm able to get all Information about the involved parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You for your help :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20012" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T00:19:52.560" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:57:21.277" Title="Engine Braking Force" Tags="|engine|brakes|transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33271" CreationDate="2016-07-23T00:53:11.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love engine braking, but it's always been a bit of a mystery to me how it works. Reading up on it, it seems that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you close the throttle (let go of the gas), this obviously closes the throttle plate, cutting off the air supply to the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cutoff air supply causes a small vacuum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine's intake valves still open when they are supposed to, so now the pistons are fighting this vacuum in order to continue their motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fighting the vacuum is slowing the pistons down, everything slows down after that (crankshaft, transmission, then wheels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on this, sounds like 2 things would be central to effective engine braking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How well does your throttle plate seal when closed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How well are your piston rings sealing against each cylinder wall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T00:53:11.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T01:02:50.387" Score="8" ViewCount="13212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to think this is a sick joke. It's shaped like a bolt. It has threads like a bolt. But for all intents and purposes it is one with the exhaust manifold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the piece I'm working with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZke0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZke0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's what's left of the bolts. I need to remove them both but have only cut down the one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GinFs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GinFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a view from the side where the head of the bolt used to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0d3E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0d3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the other end. You can kind of see that the hole was not dead center by the time it got to the bottom but it's not quite as uncentered as it looks there. I think the camera being on that side makes it look even worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9Xd1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9Xd1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is what my removal situation looks like. Okay, sorry, I just realized the wrench is on the wrong side in that picture but I just stuck it in real quick to give you a general idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkcya.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkcya.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put the tap in, step on the manifold, and turn. This isn't ideal. I think my chances of breaking something would go down if I were able to secure it to something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUmTX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this gif&lt;/a&gt; tries to show that on the end that was opposite the head, the metal between the manifold and bolt looks seamless. It looks like they screwed in the bolt and then welded it the manifold. Not really, but sort of. I took a dremel around that area to see if I could find a seam but didn't find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried heat. Honestly, heat has not worked for me yet. It's been a complete waste of time. I got one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=butane+torch+yellow&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjI8e3Wr4jOAhWBXiYKHQLqAFsQ_AUICSgC&amp;amp;biw=1540&amp;amp;bih=874#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=bernzomatic+yellow&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;yellow torches&lt;/a&gt; and I'll heat up the metal around the bolt for a solid 5 minutes. It never starts to glow red. It never does anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sprayed the bolt with PB blaster probably 20 times over the last couple weeks. I soaked a rag in PB Blaster and let it sit over bolt all night. The bolt doesn't care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please tell me there is some hope. I'm half tempted to just drill it out more and secure the new bolt with a nut on the other side (instead of just threads which is how it's designed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this bolt is essentially welded to the manifold and is there any way it can be gotten out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19596" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T13:24:19.607" Title="Can bolts become fused with an exhaust manifold? If so is it possible to remove them?" Tags="|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33273" CreationDate="2016-07-23T01:46:35.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's 2 things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More heat:&lt;/strong&gt; The bolt does need to glow red-orange for this to work. If it's not glowing red-orange, it ain't hot enough. Getting a bolt that hot does take a lot of time with an acetylene-oxygen torch, other torches will take a lot longer, if they can do it at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill it out:&lt;/strong&gt; Drilling it out is your option if heat doesn't work. Sure, you could do a nut and bolt, but you could also cut new threads. Get a tap-and-dye set, select your favourite bolt size for the new threads and have at her. You may also want to use thread-locking compound to secure that bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T01:46:35.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T01:56:58.333" Score="3" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drove my Xsara early this morning, got back in 2-3 hours later and NOTHING!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dash lights, headlights, etc. are fine – so battery has power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue to happen so suddenly and are there any quick fixes till I can get it to a mechanic? Unless its just a loose wire or fuse, then I'll do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20014" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:25:34.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T08:25:34.910" Title="Citroen Xsara - Worked this morning, now won't start" Tags="|starting|troubleshooting|ignition|citroen|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2016-07-23T04:45:25.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VW diesel engine controls that I'm familiar with (ALH and BEW mostly) are drive-by-wire and the throttle position will be at 0% at idle. You may have a different controller, but I wouldn't expect the throttle position to be much different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU is responsible for managing the idle speed and doesn't need throttle input to do that, hence the 0% (driver isn't asking for anything from the car) on the MkIV ECUs. I could see a different ECU / injection system doing it differently, but 22% seems very high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T04:45:25.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33260" CreationDate="2016-07-23T05:37:48.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have assumed that this was an overdrive unit engaging and disengaging, but I found a 1998 Civic manual online, and it confirms the above answer: &quot;Your Honda's transmission has four forward speeds, and is electronically controlled for smoother shifting. It also has a &quot;lock-up&quot; torque converter for better fuel economy. &lt;em&gt;You may feel what seems like another shift when the converter locks&lt;/em&gt;.&quot; (Emphasis added)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/949320/Honda-1998-Civic-Sedan.html?page=124#manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.manualslib.com/manual/949320/Honda-1998-Civic-Sedan.html?page=124#manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on my 2002 Toyota Sienna and 2003 Toyota Corolla, when engaging and disengaging the &quot;OD&quot; via the button on the shifter, was that simply locking and unlocking the torque converter? Scandalous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20018" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T05:37:48.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33271" CreationDate="2016-07-23T06:06:35.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any such formula. The biggest factor at play is the engine rpm, but there are a zillion little things that affect the engine's internal friction, and engineers have been working their asses off for decades to reduce this friction by tiny amounts. Any &quot;coefficient of braking&quot; or whatever would have to be an empirically measured number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the throttle is closed (and car is in gear and clutch engaged), the car's wheels are forcing the engine to spin, instead of the engine making the wheels spin. With throttle open, the engine is spinning because of controlled explosions of air + gasoline in the cylinders. Throttle closed means no air, means no explosions, means all of those metal parts moving against metal parts in the engine (pistons scraping against cylinder walls, piston ends rotating on crankshaft, crankshaft rotating within engine block, etc, etc) have to be turned by the car's wheels, which slows the wheels (and the car) down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanical friction is a more significant factor than the compression and expansion of the air in the cylinders. In modern engines, when cylinders are deactivated for max fuel efficiency, the valves are kept in a closed position to avoid the friction that would be caused by drawing in and expelling air through the valves (&quot;pumping losses&quot;). In other words, a great deal of engineering is put into decoupling the valves from the valvetrain so that they can be kept closed to improve efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;By keeping the intake and exhaust valves closed, it creates an &quot;air spring&quot; in the combustion chamber ...[the air is] compressed during the piston’s upstroke and push down on the piston during its downstroke. The compression and decompression of the trapped exhaust gases have an equalising effect – overall, there is virtually no extra load on the engine.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_displacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_displacement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20018" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T06:06:35.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T06:21:17.360" Score="6" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;1983 Chevy 305 small block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hearing a grinding sound near the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a bearing or something grinding near the belt ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not exactly sure how to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuYaW0GNYvo&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuYaW0GNYvo&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20019" LastEditorUserId="20019" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T02:44:53.137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T07:57:20.880" Title="Grind/Crunch Sound Near Alternator (video)" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|noise|alternator|sbc|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33270" CreationDate="2016-07-23T08:36:36.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that you only had a gauge on the low side. When you unplugged the jumper, the pressure from the high pressure side was able to flow back over to the low side. This caused your pressure spike.  Were either of the lines cold between the compressor or firewall?  What were the pressures at when it was running? These would be clues that could help diagnose it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T08:36:36.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33279" CreationDate="2016-07-23T08:52:37.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by noise alone.... Could be a belt tensioner pulley or the alternator fan (the little metal thing on the front of the alternator with fins) scraping on something. One way to test is to remove the belt and turn the alternator manually. It could also the belt itself.  Hard to be sure just by sound alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T08:52:37.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33284" CreationDate="2016-07-23T09:02:34.853" Score="3" ViewCount="4037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan Primera P12 2500cc sedan (2001) at around 97,500 km on the odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked my mechanic when do I have to replace the timing belt and he said it lasts the lifetime of the car and doesn't need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although everywhere I look, many people say it needs replacement otherwise it will break damaging the engine. I would like to know whether I need to replace it and when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the serpentine belt. I assume this is not the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T15:24:47.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T15:24:47.230" Title="Nissan Primera Timing Belt Lifespan" Tags="|maintenance|nissan|timing-belt|primera|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33271" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:16:57.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Friction etc.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of all the moving parts in a engine: It already costs power to move Pistons, valves, shafts and belts due to friction. The dependency between RPM and this power is not linear, if you increase the RPM by a factor of 2, the power usually increases by a factor larger than 2.&#xA;The aggregates consume power, too, and it's also said that the transmission train steals 10-20% of the engine power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the engine isn't burning fuel, this all brakes the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have numbers, nor do I have estimates of the braking power caused by this effects. It also heavily depends on construction and design of the entire engine and drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Braking power of a gasoline engines&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you can estimate the braking power due to compression:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume there's an absolute vacuum in the intake manifold of a gasoline engine and see what happens during the four strokes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Intake) The piston moves down, working against the ambient air pressure in the crankcase. This costs a certain amount of energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Compression) The piston moves up, and since the ambient pressure pushes from below, the engine gains energy back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Combustion) This is the inverse of the second stroke, so it cancels out the energy gain from that stroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Exhaust) While the piston is in the lower position, the exhaust valve opens, and air streams in from the exhaust system. While the piston moves up, this air is expelled again. However, the difference in pressure above and below the piston is not that high, so there is no significant energy loss or gain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finally, the total energy &quot;lost&quot; is the energy needed to move the piston down once against the ambient pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This energy is just &lt;code&gt;E=p*V&lt;/code&gt; where p is ambient pressure and V is the displaced volume. &#xA;At 1000RPM, a motor does 16.6 revs per second, or 8.3 intake strokes (per cylinder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a 1L motor would invest 8.3*1013hPa*1L=1688J per second, or 1688 Watt, or 2.2hp into compression. At 6000RPM, it would be 13.2hp. This is the &quot;braking power&quot; due to compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the estimated upper limit of braking power: In reality, there is no absolute vacuum, since the throttle isn't fully closed. This reduced the braking power a lot, Further more: &#xA;If I had more information about the pressure in the cylinder during the first stroke, I could do a better estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Braking power of a diesel engine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wrote above about compression above doesn't apply to a diesel, since it doesn't have a throttle, so there's always ambient-like pressure in the cylinder in the first stroke. The energy balance is zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, trucks have special engine brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust brakes&lt;/strong&gt; restrict the exhaust pipe, so the engine has to invest energy to blow out the exhaust against the pressure that builds up in the exhaust. The math is about the same as above, one just has to replace the pressure by the average pressure in the exhaust. When the pressure is five times the ambient pressure, braking power is also five times the value calculated above. Since I don't know the pressure, I can't calculate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jake brakes&lt;/strong&gt; release the pressure in the cylinder after the second stroke by opening a valve. So the engine doesn't gain back the energy it invested into the compression before. &#xA;From the physics side, there are two formulas to describe this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adiabatic process:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you compress air, it becomes hot, and hot air generates more pressure. This makes the formula to calculate the energy spent for compression (and lost by venting) a little complex:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;E=p1*V1/(K-1) * (1- ( V1/V2)^(K-1))&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;p1&lt;/code&gt; is ambient pressure, &lt;code&gt;V1&lt;/code&gt; is the volume before compression (or just the displacement), &lt;code&gt;V2&lt;/code&gt; the volume after compression (in the order of 1/20 to 1/30 of &lt;code&gt;V1&lt;/code&gt;), and &lt;code&gt;K&lt;/code&gt; is a constant of about 1.3.&#xA;Let's take 1/30 and the 1l motor at 1000RPM again, and the power is about 5000W or 6.1hp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Isothermal process: &#xA;Let's assume the heat generated during compression is  dissipated to the cylinder and piston, so the temperature stays constant. In this case, the formula is less complex, with the same meaning of the parameters as above:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;E=p1*V1*ln(V1/V2)&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;Using the same conditions as above, this gives 2860W or 3.8hp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, the air in the cylinder dissipates &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the heat, so the truth is somewhere between the both formulas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T16:57:21.277" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:57:21.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33282" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:42:40.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine in your Primera should be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_QR_engine#QR25DE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;QR25DE&lt;/a&gt;. According to the Wiki page, it should be equipped with a steel timing chain, not a belt. Your mechanic is spot on. Timing chains are usually good for the life of the engine (rare occasions otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A timing belt/chain connects the camshaft and crankshaft together, making them work as one. The camshaft rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft, but timing is crucial between the two (therefore why it's called a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;timing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; belt/chain). They are used on nearly all overhead cam designed engines. With the proper covers in place on the engine, you won't see the belt/chain at all. &lt;strong&gt;You are correct in thinking the serpentine belt is not the same as the timing belt/chain&lt;/strong&gt;, but are wise in keeping up maintenance on it. They do wear out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no easy way to tell without dismantling part of the engine. You may be able to take the front top cover off of the engine to see (this should be an aluminum cover which will be on the front side of the engine - to the right side of the car as you're sitting in the driver's seat) . Everything I've been reading show the P12 with the 2.5l engine to have the QR25DE, which is chain driven. I don't think you'll have anything to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T13:32:38.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T13:32:38.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33279" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:49:42.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sound you are hearing is most likely the bearings going (gone) bad in the alternator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @resident_heretic suggested, removing the belt and checking the alternator by hand is a good suggestion. You can also isolate the sound by using an automotive stethoscope (can be bought at Harbor Freight for $5). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't have that, you can isolate the noise by using a long, flat tipped screwdriver. Place the handle up to your ear (can even rest it on the bone behind your hear), then place the tip on the alternator housing and see if this amplifies the noise. You can touch it to other portions of the engine to see if the noise is there, as well. Be careful when doing this, though ... do not wear any dangling jewelry, ties, or loose fitting clothing. It's really easy to get this stuff caught up in the fan belt or other moving parts. Would pretty much ruin a good day otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet, since you have a v-belt accessory system, you do not have a tensioner pulley or idler pulley on it. Those are pretty much relegated to serpentine belt systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T07:57:20.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T07:57:20.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33287" CreationDate="2016-07-23T13:42:15.160" Score="3" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to work through the things that need doing on my 1965 Buick Wildcat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one time in the past, one or more rodents chewed through the wires on my Temperature Sending Unit.  I've replaced the unit and now I want to reconnect the wires.  Given the short length of the wire and the location of the damage I can't simply use butt connectors and move on, I will need to patch in some new wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my potential solutions, in order of preference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a source for a readymade pigtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate a new connector and wire to make my own pigtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extract the blade contacts from the old connector and crimp new contacts onto new wires to make my own pigtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgEFy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgEFy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Temperature Sending Connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Is anyone aware of a source for this part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, can anyone tell me the right way to extract the blades from inside the connector without breaking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is a 401cid Nailhead which uses a 2-wire sender (one for Cold, one for Hot) via a 90-degree connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18887" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:18:33.713" Title="Need to repair connector for the Temp Sending connector on my Buick Nailhead engine" Tags="|wiring|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33286" CreationDate="2016-07-23T13:57:08.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not finding the part you're looking for, so I bet it'd be a tough replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at it, there are a couple of options for you. First, you can buy  two &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; sided connectors, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/catalog/buick~wildcat~65.html?3593=318855&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPE9s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPE9s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using two of them, you can place it onto your sensor and connect it to the existing wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always dismantle these by taking the contacts out of them and putting them into the body of your original plug. I believe if you use a very thin flat-tipped screwdriver, you can get the contact to release inside the body. Slide it up between the body and the contact all the way to the base and I'm pretty sure it will release. I'm not sure which side of the contact you'd need to work on, or which way it would come out (the wire side or the connector side), but the thing has to go together &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt;, which means it will come apart. I believe I've done this before to the same time of connection (IIRC, I had a melted connector and took the wires out). Just play with it some and you can probably work it out without too much of a hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even easier fix may be to just get some female bladed terminal ends which would slide down onto the blades of the sensor. Connect these to your wires and you're in business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; FOUND IT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PN:34621   TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT LEAD REPAIR KIT, for 2 flat blade terminal type sending units&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to drill down a bit to find it from the page. They have some markup on the page which shows as you click, but doesn't do anything with the URL. How you want to drill down in the catalog is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on &lt;strong&gt;Automotive Switches&lt;/strong&gt; from the main page&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on &lt;strong&gt;View Catalog / Order Online&lt;/strong&gt; under any of the subsections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on &lt;strong&gt;Make/Model/Year of Vehicle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click on &lt;strong&gt;GM OLDSMOBILE FULLSIZE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enter year, then click &lt;strong&gt;Display Catalog&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scroll down to find the subsection entitled &lt;strong&gt;REPAIR COMPONENTS (for wire harnesses)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is listed there as shown above. As of this post, price is $17 (plus shipping I assume). Here is a picture of what you get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGLe0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGLe0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T19:18:33.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:18:33.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2016-07-23T15:22:45.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many sport bikes have a partial chain cover. The front sprocket is covered and the upper portion of the chain is covered along the swingarm area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done purely for aesthetics and to prevent chain lubricant from getting all over the bike and rider. They actually contribute to chain wear, because they trap road grime and prevent proper cleaning of the chain. The front sprocket cover in particular is almost always filled completely with lubricant and road grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riders looking to get the longest lifetime from their drivetrain components simply purchase a shaft-driven motorcycle. As a result, there is no incentive for manufacturers to creative a better system for protecting the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T15:22:45.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33282" CreationDate="2016-07-23T15:23:05.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really two related questions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How is the engine constructed (timing belt vs. timing chain), and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the service interval on the belt or chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been pointed out there are design tradeoffs. Chains, in general, tend to last longer. Belts, in general, are quieter and might be easier and/or less expensive to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The service interval determination involves weighing a number of competing considerations. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While chains are more reliable the belts, they do wear and can fail. Regular oil and filter changes (since the chain is usually (always?) running in the engines oil bath) will help extend the life of a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A chain the wears out and fails beyond the useful economic life of the vehicle is a &quot;lifetime&quot; chain. If you have a classic car or figure the useful life of the vehicle differently then you may need to plan for replacing evan a &quot;lifetime&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The consequence of a chain or belt failure. Some engines, called &lt;em&gt;interference engines&lt;/em&gt; are designed so that the cam and crankshafts &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be in time. If they are not (e.g., if the belt or chain breaks while the engine is running) then it is almost certain that the valves and pistons will collide doing significant damage to the engine. Diesels and other high compression designs are almost certainly interference engines. It used to be that interference engines tended to use chains, but belts have become more reliable and more common as service items and that rule doesn't hold as well as it once seemed to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear on a timing chain will cause it to elongate, and over time this may affect the performance of the engine as it will shift the valve timing slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verifying that you engine has a chain can be done by identifying the engine and then checking its description. On engines with timing chains the chain is internal to the engine and may be hard to inspect without significant disassembly. Engines with timing belts will usually be designed to facilitate inspecting the belt as it is a wear item that has to be replaced. The timing drive will be on one end of the engine or the other and if it is a belt there will likely be a relatively easy to remove cover that lets you inspect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T15:23:05.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T15:41:55.127" Score="3" ViewCount="8557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had my tyres changed on my CBF 125, last week. Since then, I've had issues with braking. I took the bike back to them and taking the wheel off (to change the tyre as it was already going flat) and putting it back on seemed to fix the weird brake feeling I had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've noticed that the front wheel, when spun on the center stand, makes a scraping sound. It's not loud, almost like two bits of metal sliding against each other. I imagine the brake pad is scraping. I've searched this and I've found people saying it's normal and others saying it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? When I got home after a 25 mile ride today, the brake disc was particularly hot. So hot, I could barely hold my finger on it. The guy in the shop said that the brake pads were wearing low, so I'll be buying new ones next week. Not sure if the scraping sound could be because of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20023" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:29:29.703" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T20:51:53.703" Title="Motorcycle front disc brake scraping sound" Tags="|motorcycle|brakes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2016-07-23T16:14:47.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your Engine is gunked up, and black sludge is prevalent, do not perform a flush. Just keep a regular maintenance of regular oil changes, and you will be fine.  Flushing oil can do more damage to your Engine if your engine does not need it. I had a 150K Diesel VW Golf which I like a twit decided to do flush on, this caused it to smoke profusely. It had been fine previously to this. only after 10K did it stop smoking I used a BG flush item, with allegedly ring clean Technology. Never again. DO not tinker with a running engine just perform a regular oil change with a filter. No additives. Today's cars run with Long Life fully synthetic oil. Black sludge in old mineral oil in the 80s and early 90s with a poor breather assembly did suffer from this. If you have a dirty petrol engine, place a oil made for diesel and run it for about 50 miles and drain. The Diesel oil has surfactants and cleaning additives which clean and shift gunk. But do be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20024" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T16:14:47.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T16:29:16.130" Score="3" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out why my truck driver won't move. If I leave it off and turn it on it goes maybe 5-10 mph and then just completely stops moving and you can just hear it revving. Can someone help me come up with possible answers, I'm thinking I have a clog but not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20025" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:43:35.090" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:43:35.090" Title="My 2004 Chevy trailblazer won't accelerate or just got maybe 5-10" Tags="|chevrolet|transmission|maintenance|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T17:30:46.377" Score="2" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my 2008 Qlink Legacy the other day.  There was a pop and the bike lost power to the rear wheel.  &lt;em&gt;The CVT belt broke.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was nothing peculiar about the ride until the point when it broke; I was at a stop sign and got through the intersection before it popped. &#xA;The belt broke after about half an hour of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the CVT cover off and removed the broken belt. I started the bike up, turned the throttle, and &lt;em&gt;the front end of the pulley turned with no problems.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a new belt on. (I confirmed the size 4 times with the manual.) When I turned the bike on, the belt turned, but &lt;strong&gt;as soon as I turned the throttle it would bog down and eventually stop.&lt;/strong&gt; I have attached a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZzA3bVfiys&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; where I throttle it up with the belt on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further inspection there was no coolant and it was a hot day. I have since flushed the coolant and refilled it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel spins freely; there is nothing restricting it. It doesn't matter if the wheel is on or off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can anyone give me any advice for this?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20027" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T20:48:46.983" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T10:37:00.133" Title="CVT Belt Repair Problem on my '08 Qlink Legacy 250cc Scooter" Tags="|automatic-transmission|scooter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33295" CreationDate="2016-07-23T17:38:01.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search online turns up a number of pages that recommend against giving your vehicle a carwash in the hot sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this actually damage the finish on the vehicle? Will it cause any harm to the car? Or is this just a widely perpetuated myth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15380" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:39:59.437" Title="Washing a vehicle in the hot sun?" Tags="|maintenance|cleaning|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33294" CreationDate="2016-07-23T17:48:10.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding just based from experience is it means its easier to clean because water doesn't evaporate in 10 seconds and leave those dirty residue spots on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its easiest to wash just before sunset when the strong suns rays are gone and temperature is cool and then you've plenty of time to chamois the water away for great clean finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then its time to cruise the street and admire your cars reflection in shop windows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T17:48:10.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33294" CreationDate="2016-07-23T17:52:17.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing about washing it on a hot sunny day is the soapy water dries quickly and the soap spots can be a pain to get off, or at minimum look ugly when you're done (which often defeats the purpose of washing it in the first place). Also water spotting especially if the water in your area is pretty hard. Not permanent, but still a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess there &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be some types of finishes where soapy residue (or certain mineral deposits from the water) left on them for a long time could damage or become more permanent. This is probably one of those things that like, &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be an issue, if you do it &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt; and are unlucky. I wouldn't worry about that. I've never heard of anything like that ever happening, and I can't imagine a situation in which it would, or the chemical mechanism behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not going to like, strip the paint off your car. If people are saying it's going to damage your finish I'd say that's a myth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to wash your car on a sunny day try doing it in the early morning or late evening, or in the shade. You could also try to find a gentler, more pH neutral shampoo. The other thing that helps is to wash your car in smaller sections (shampoo -&gt; rinse -&gt; dry) so the soapy water and rinse water has less time to evaporate before you dry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all I wouldn't worry about long term finish effects, but your car may end up with a lot of unsightly soap spots on it if you let the soapy water dry before you rinse it, or water spots if you let the rinse water evaporate before you dry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I have washed a lot of cars, and seen a lot of cars washed, and in the last 30 years that I can recall, I have never once seen an issue besides sometimes having to re-wet a spot that dried too quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sort of like if you spray glass cleaner on a window then let it evaporate before you wipe it off. It's annoying, doesn't leave you with a clean window, and makes more work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:07:54.097" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:07:54.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33292" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:17:00.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try and get the transmission flushed and might get a few more thousand miles out of it, but from the sounds of it, your tranny is toast. It will either need a rebuild or a swapped out for a new/rebuilt one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening is the soft parts of the transmission (bands/clutches) are worn out. They no longer have any grip to give you the momentum. You trying to drive it is only causing more damage. If you do it too much, you'll cause hard parts to fail, which will make the repair bill that much more expensive. Get it towed to a repair shop and have them diagnose/repair the transmission. It's about your safest bet at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:17:00.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33290" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:26:28.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that disc brakes on a motorcycle are similar to those on a bicycle, it is possible that the rotor – which is on the wheel – is no longer aligned with the caliper on the fork. This could explain your first point if the wheel was not returned to its previous location after changing the tyre. All it would take for this to happen is for there to be a little bit of play in the fork where the axle is clamped. It could also happen if the axle was not quite tight enough and the braking forces have caused the wheel to shift a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some disc brake designs do not actively withdraw the pads, so a tiny bit of noise from dragging after applying the brakes might be normal, but a large build up of heat is not. That's energy being dissipated which wastes fuel and the heat can also reduce the effectiveness of your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing worn pads is a good idea, but none of this sounds like it would be due to worn pads. I think there is an alignment issue between the rotor and the caliper/pads. If the front wheel is properly mounted and properly torqued, then it is possible that the caliper needs to be aligned (on bicycles there are a couple of bolts that hold the caliper on disc brake systems and, roughly speaking, you loosen the bolts, apply the brakes to force the caliper into alignment with the rotor, and then tighten the bolts – it's an easy process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is a warped rotor, but that is something that wouldn't be likely to be related to the recent work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T18:36:39.747" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:36:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33294" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:39:59.437" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like watering plants when the sun is high in the sky, water droplets are mini magnifying glasses, they will burn and kill plants and perhaps discolour paintwork for that same reason, if they don't evaporate immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20029" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:39:59.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13504" CreationDate="2016-07-23T18:48:30.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked really well for us, used preferably a rubber mallet, or a hammer and hit the key while in the engine and eventually it worked, perseverance works well with this, because it has worked for a lot of people on the Internet, saved our butts Lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20030" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T18:48:30.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36017" CreationDate="2016-07-23T19:12:49.203" Score="5" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Windstar 1996 3.8L engine with 170k miles on it.  Recently, it started stalling with no warning after the car runs for about 45 minutes.  There are no OBDII codes showing, nor any pending ones.  Running the a/c seems to add to it, probably due to more load.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done searches on this and found it could be a crankshaft position sensor.  One person had the exact same scenario on a different type of car.  Once the car cools off it will start up and run fine again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I was going to take it out and see if I could get it to stall and throw a code, but after running it at idle for about 25 minutes, it just stalled in the driveway and the MIL light came on.  It did start right back up and the light went off, so I pulled it into the garage.  Now it won't start.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is very strange is my OBDII scanner can't connect to the engine right now.  The scanner works fine on my other car, so it's not the issue.  I suspect that after it cools off I will be able to run a scan and it will start fine again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The scanner was bad.  After getting a warranty replacement it is working fine.  However there are no codes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what to look for here?  I'm thinking that if I could keep driving it, it would eventually fire a code, but I really can't drive a car that could just stall without warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had checked the fuel pump about a month ago and it was fine.  Now however, when I checked it it reads 0 pressure when cranking.  I thought that it was a bad fuel pump, but I replaced it and I still have 0 pressure. I'm checking fuses and power to the fuel pump to find the root problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastEditorUserId="2078" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T00:57:07.563" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T00:57:07.563" Title="What can cause intermittant stalling for a Ford Windstar van?" Tags="|intermittent-problems|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33301" CreationDate="2016-07-23T19:27:11.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your scanner can't connect, the ECU is your problem. Swap it with one from a junkyard to see. You had been successful in using this scanner with this vehicle before, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T19:27:11.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T20:03:00.057" Score="2" ViewCount="3841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '86 Jeep Comanche with a leaking pinion seal, I don't remember how long it has been leaking. I thought it was the rear differential gasket and changed that but it still leaks. Hope I can go a little longer. It's been halfway across country once then all the way. It needs a new rear end but it is still holding up. I don't want it to break down on me. To much work to do. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20031" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T20:34:58.667" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T18:11:12.793" Title="If I don't change pinion seal right away how much damage can be caused?" Tags="|jeep|leak|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33303" CreationDate="2016-07-23T20:13:30.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean damage to the differential, not to the environment :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leak is slow and you keep up with it, you can probably go a long, long time before it is anything more than a nuisance. Slow means that between checks and topping up the oil the oil doesn't drop too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've you've been running it dry, their may be damage already, but heavy gear oils won't drain away quickly and there should be a fair amount of oil below the pinion seal. You are probably OK, at least on this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T20:13:30.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30337" CreationDate="2016-07-23T20:56:44.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest doing some searches to see if there is a way to disable the DRLs on your truck. Failing that, the coil current on the relay for the new HiD lights might be low enough that you could get away with putting a variable resistor between the 7/12 V wire and ground and then connecting the HID relay to the wiper (the third, variable connection). The adjust the resistor until the HID relay drops out when the light switch is off, but pulls in when the lights are turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T20:56:44.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-23T20:57:58.993" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T20:57:58.993" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T20:57:58.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-23T20:57:58.993" Score="0" Body="Questions related to the engine running without advancing the throttle." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T01:46:12.910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T01:46:12.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33310" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:05:41.760" Score="5" ViewCount="2123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project to replace my car's instrument panel with a Android tablet. So I'm developing an application that communicates with an ELM327 device through bluetooth. I have managed to successfully get things like engine RPM, speed and temperature through OBD II, what I can't figure out is how to get some specific information that are shown in my original instrument panel (like the handbrake light and reverse light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get this kind of information using OBD II? If yes, I assume the OBD commands are vendor specific so, anyone have an idea of where to find these codes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a GM Vectra 2007 2.0 8V. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20032" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T18:03:35.413" Title="Retrieving handbrake status light and reverse light from OBD II" Tags="|obd-ii|bluetooth|elm-327|obd|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33309" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:10:24.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start off with a copy of the service manual for your car. The electrical schematics will help you understand where the various annunciators come from. Earlier cars typically have less data available via ODB II (whose original intent was to provide a way to monitor pollution controls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add something like a Raspberry Pi to your project you can use the GPIO pins to read signals like the parking brake switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get at more of the information that is available through the diagnostic port you may need to learn about the CAN protocol and how to read the other controllers on the bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T21:10:24.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33273" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:18:52.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exhaust manifold is a typical candidate for seized bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try a pin punch to separate the rest of the drilled bolt from the manifold. Place the punch on the small circular groove visible on the photo,  hammer radially, downwards from the outside, thereby warping it inwards and hopefully separating it from the manifold. If that doesn't succeed there is only the nut solution left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the remaining bolt: Use a hammer and a pin-punch, jolt the bolt radially just above the manifold. Make a small groove in the bolt just above the manifold, use a center-punch and hammer it tangentially in the groove on the bolt, thereby rotating the bolt counterclockwise. Additionally heating the thing would be also a good idea.&#xA;If that doesn't work: Cut the bolt and drill it out, then use a nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, on assembly: Be sure to use some high temperature anti-seize compound (either cooper or ceramic paste) on the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T21:18:52.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T22:07:52.577" Score="4" ViewCount="4641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ and the high beams work but the low beams don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced one of the relays under the hood and the high beams started working but the low beams still don't work. What else could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20033" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T00:14:32.293" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T00:22:38.287" Title="High beams work, low beams do not. What is wrong with headlight?" Tags="|electrical|headlight|jeep|wrangler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33312" CreationDate="2016-07-23T22:16:24.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perform a continuity test on your combination switch. Get a multimeter and service manual for your vehicle and test the contacts with the switch in different positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T22:16:24.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33312" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:07:57.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that could be problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Confirm that the bulbs are good. I've seen it happen more than once that one bulb burns out and you don't notice, then the second bulb burns out and that is when you notice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the fuses. On many cars the high and low beams are fused separately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check, or listen, to determine if the relay controlling the lights is operating  when you switch from low to high (if it is you can be pretty sure that the control circuits are working).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:07:57.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:29:18.513" Score="5" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had an Alpine INE-W960A Navigation head unit and SPR-60C component speakers installed in my 2016 Impreza hatchback. As my budget was limited I did not replace the rear door speakers at the same time. I am now wishing to upgrade the rear speakers with Alpine SPR-60 co-axial speakers. there is a warning on the SPR-60 box stating- &quot;This product contains a high performance tweeter. If there is a tweeter already installed in your car, then you must disconnect its terminals. If you leave the original tweeter connected and connect this product in parallel, then a fault may develop in this product, so you are strongly recommended not to do so.&quot; &#xA;Should I return these speakers and if so which type of rear speakers should I purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20035" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T04:41:45.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T04:41:45.120" Title="Speaker setup in Subaru Impreza" Tags="|subaru|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33323" CreationDate="2016-07-23T23:42:08.333" Score="11" ViewCount="40880" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife picked up a rather large screw in her tire. It's a very clean entry, but I'm pretty sure it's too large to plug the hole. One shop even said as much, but I figured I'd get a second opinion here. I've seen it said elsewhere that 0.25&quot; diameter is the largest hole you can plug. Unfortunately when I removed this screw I measured it and the major diameter of the thread is around 0.31&quot; (but obviously the shaft i.e. minor diameter is much less). I'm amazed it was actually able to do such a perfect puncture job, since it is over 2&quot; long and moreover has a rounded tip... no point at all! I actually think the giant washer is what made it possible, since when the car ran over the washer that is what forced the tip of the screw to lift off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7CxE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7CxE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HocAC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HocAC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T00:07:08.303" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T15:15:18.697" Title="Is this tire puncture able to be plugged?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T00:07:14.110" Score="5" ViewCount="10869" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my bike wont start but does start when I use the wrench on the solenoid trick; does that mean I need to replace the solenoid? I'm having trouble working this out as I'm new to mechanics and trying to learn. If this is the case some people say its not the solenoid and its the starter relay. I cant seem to work out the difference because if you search for motorcycle solenoid parts and starter relays they look exactly the same. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20036" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T14:51:55.020" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T03:31:11.377" Title="Motorcycle won't start without jumping the solenoid" Tags="|motorcycle|starting|starter|relay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T00:10:18.690" Score="8" ViewCount="24094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke it off by mistake and am trying to replace it. Here's what I'm looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UCkc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UCkc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here's what I've tried so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fl8T8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fl8T8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I try the green one I can pull very hard but it doesn't come loose. I can pull so hard that I'm afraid I'll break the plastic piece in two and it will fall in the oil pan. Yet, if I try the yellow one the tube rotates so easily you can't get a tight grip on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The job I'm doing is a blown head gasket. I had the heads reworked and the guy at the machine shop said they got hot. Most of the hot parts on this truck have been impossible to work with. Except this tube rotates with a little force. It just won't pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get this tube out? I'm desperate but &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; don't want to drop something in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19596" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T16:53:53.360" Title="How do you remove a broken oil dipstick tube?" Tags="|stuck-bolt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33318" CreationDate="2016-07-24T00:47:02.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar situation with a '96 Intrepid 2 weeks ago. Your best bet is to drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan. Once that's done, you can either get at the rest of your tube from underneath, or drill it/punch it in from above without worrying about getting contaminants in the engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T00:47:02.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-24T00:49:13.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a different shop, they should be able to patch it. A hole this big at the bottom of a groove is less critical than the same hole on the rolling surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T00:49:13.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33315" CreationDate="2016-07-24T01:04:55.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a funny way to remind you that two tweeters - possibly out of phase - could result in a sound you're not happy with. Note this warning is specific to the channel (FL, FR, RL, RR) you're working in. If there are no rear tweeters then you're good. If there are rear tweeters you will definitely want to do two things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the factory tweeters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bypass any factory crossovers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A factory tweeter will almost always have a cap on it, so it's possible the woofer is not crossed over, but if it is, that tweeter on your coax isn't going to do much. In either case, you could be dealing with impedance issues at worst and terrible sound at best if you leave the factory tweeter hooked up along with the coax. Often the wires for both will be close to one another, so it might not be too bad finding the harness to disconnect the factory tweeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T01:04:55.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2016-07-24T01:38:41.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found replacement parts for this which might be useful. The number is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9046717016 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost about 1.50 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just walk into any Toyota garage and ask if you can order that part in, and it should be ready in a few days for you. Most garages can order parts in for you, if you get a really bad garage just go to the next one, most of them will be happy to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I have not actually ordered them so I don't know if they will really fit or not, but I think they will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20037" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T00:12:31.823" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T00:12:31.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-24T02:18:21.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Rubber Manufacturers Association rules say that a hole larger than 1/4&quot; cannot be repaired (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rma.org/tire-safety/tire-repair&quot;&gt;https://rma.org/tire-safety/tire-repair&lt;/a&gt;). So if your measurement is accurate, it's unlikely you'll find a shop willing to repair the hole - they may be legally liable if there was any issues afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was my wife's car, I'd have no problem with (a) getting a second opinion - without expecting a different result, and then (b) Buying at least one new tire for the car. I wouldn't want anything less than a perfect repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T02:18:21.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38147" CreationDate="2016-07-24T03:26:30.863" Score="4" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mk1 Golf Cabriolet with an hydraulic roof. Today I went for a drive and whilst the roof lowered as normal, I could not raise it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the fluid levels and they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no sound coming from the pump at all. The only sounds I can here are from a bank of 3 relays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One relay triggers when the up button is pushed, one when the down button is pushed. I am unsure what the 3rd relay does as it makes no noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unplugged the pump and connected a multimeter to the socket it connects to and got 9.5 volts (car engine not running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there seems to be power coming to the pump but nothing is happening. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T00:24:56.803" Title="Hydraulic pump receiving power but not running" Tags="|electrical|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T04:08:07.417" Score="4" ViewCount="2529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some help. My girlfriend has a 2002 Honda Civic that keeps overheating. The fan doesn't turn on. We tested both fans and they work properly. We changed the thermostat, the cooling fan switch and the fuse,  the fan still doesn't come on when it reaches temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20038" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T07:10:27.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:09:29.900" Title="2002 Honda Civic over heating fan does not comes on" Tags="|honda|electrical|overheating|fan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T04:49:58.070" Score="4" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 2015 Kia Forte LX and I'm wanting to replace the stock remote control panel on the steering wheel with that of the panel on the EX. I know it's possible because every time I spoke to someone at the dealership they said I wouldn't even be able to get the EX panel from anyone but them (I purchased a genuine OEM panel online) they also told me they checked and the part wouldn't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after &lt;strong&gt;extensive&lt;/strong&gt; research I was able to check on the Kia site and I entered my VIN and the item number and not only will it fit but it is compatible. So their next argument is I would have to reprogram my body control module (I've yet to do research on that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long story short once I have it installed will the additional buttons work automatically or will I in fact have to reprogram my BCM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I want is to stop all the doors for unlocking when I remove my key. It's a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; safety thing for me since I take night classes and don't like the fact that once the key is out my car is open to the world! Sorry for the long post I'm just really disappointed with the lack of knowledge the &quot;professionals&quot; have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20040" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T07:16:30.500" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:04:45.710" Title="Steering control panel upgrade for the 2015 Kia Forte" Tags="|electronics|aftermarket-upgrade|bcm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33325" CreationDate="2016-07-24T05:49:57.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Test the coolant temperature sensor. Most vehicles have 2 temperature coolant sensors, one for the instrument cluster and one for the ECU. A repair manual for your vehicle (Haynes or Chilton) will tell you where it is and how to test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T05:49:57.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33326" CreationDate="2016-07-24T05:56:23.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search online for a body control module for both your LX and the EX: if they have the same part number, you will probably not need to reprogram your body control module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you are trying to do is to prevent your doors from automatically unlocking when you remove the key, most cars will allow you to reprogram features like this. Look in your owner's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T05:56:23.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="838" CreationDate="2016-07-24T07:43:52.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Majority of times the reason for this is the red and yellow/red tracer are in the block the wrong way around just swap them over also check original block as they are sometimes wired differently so match them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20042" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T07:43:52.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33326" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:04:45.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some control modules require &quot;coding&quot; or &quot;reprogramming&quot; to tell the module what features are present in the car. Newer cars/modules are better at figuring it out for themselves than older ones, to it might work automagically. If it does not the &quot;coding&quot; (at least on Volkswagens) is a pretty straight forward process – it is just a matter of entering a single number in the right place. Knowing the place and having the software tools to add it is the hard part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealers are almost certain to have to the equipment and access to the knowledge to do this, wether or not they are willing to do it is another matter. I did a bit of browsing on Kia forums and it looks like as early as 2011 it was possible for the dealer to completely disable the auto-unlock. It also sounds like some dealers would refuse to do it…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So option 1) would be to ask your dealer to disable it. If they refuse I'd be inclined to try to call Kia directly and explain what you want and that you'd like them to refer you to a nearby dealer who is able to do it for you. A bit of poking seems to indicate that the same BCM is used in the LX and EX, so option 2) could be trying to update to the LX steering wheel controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:04:45.710" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33317" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:12:40.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;solenoid trick&quot; pretty much guarantees that the solenoid is good. When you short it with the wrench you're simulating a start signal on the small terminal. When you do that the solenoid does its job, so the solenoid is probably good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the question is why aren't you getting the start signal when you turn the key or hit the starter switch. Start by measuring the voltage at the terminal to see if you get anything when you ask the bike to start. Nothing at all means that you're got a problem upstream of the solenoid, perhaps a failed switch or relay (if they use one). A low voltage suggests a bad connection, could be a failing switch or relay or a poor ground. You can check for the poor ground by reading between the solenoid terminal and the battery ground post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:12:40.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:46:37.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a larger puncture repaired with a tire plug. As long as the repair is properly done (i.e. no air leaks) you should be fine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:46:37.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33339" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:58:50.153" Score="4" ViewCount="3832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an imported (from Japan) Mazda Axela 2010 (i-stop, 1990cc, sedan) and the dealer asked me to use 95 octane petrol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of misconceptions about octane and I heard many dealers recommend higher octane fuel, just to be safe as they don't know the actual required fuel type. Also, it is more expensive to run a car (in New Zealand) with 95 octane, as the additional cost per liter outweighs any possible efficiency increase compared to regular 90/91 octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would like to know what fuel types I can use on this car (90? 91? 95?) and what are the consequences of using regular 91 octane fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle does have EFI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, right now the tank is filled with 95 octane. Can I simply add regular fuel the next time I fill up? or do I have to go to a mechanic to drain the tank and fuel lines first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; Got my friend to read the Japanese Owners Manual for the car, and it says 87 or higher is acceptable. Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastEditorUserId="2080" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:39:56.177" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:39:56.177" Title="Fuel Type (octane) for Mazda Axela 2010" Tags="|mazda|mazda-3|octane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-24T09:33:45.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can plug that hole with no problems. Most Auto-Zone type places sell a generic plug kit, with a T-type corkscrew driver, plugs and glue. So what I might do is plug it like that BUT also glue a gaiter on the inside just to be sure. ALSO, If i was a little doubtful, possibly swap the tyre out with the spare.....use in emergency only....which means also you monitor that it holds pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20044" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T09:33:45.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T11:26:04.030" Score="5" ViewCount="5439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I've been having this problem for a long while now causing me not only frustration but not to be trusted at work for getting there late and other personal problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to sell the car now , since I can't find the problem nobody would take the car as it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a normal day it would happen but happens most on a hot day or also when I turn on the air conditioner. I would be driving normally and the car would start slowing down rapidly once I let go of the gas pedal while not pressing on the brake. And then as the problem continues if I try pressing the gas the car would accelerate roughly 30-50 miles per hour and it would sound as if the engine or car can't handle it since the front right brake is getting tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I let go of the gas pedal while going 50 the car will decrease in speed rapidly to 20mphs and start smelling like burnt brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had to stop the car several times even on freeways to cool down the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What seems to help is letting the brake cool down and press on the brakes while the car is off. Like I feel the pressure releases or something &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've changed the brake hose once recently , caliper twice with bolts and everything , I've changed the rotor or disk twice as well, including brake pads since either they broke because of the heat or pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16538" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T12:13:24.050" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T13:31:59.937" Title="What could be causing my front right brakes to get tight and decrease in speed very rapidly on a Ford Focus 2006 zx4?" Tags="|ford|brakes|focus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T11:30:12.207" Score="4" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;My BMW E-46, 3.23i temperature is always going to the red zone. My water pump is fine, the thermostat is okies, but the hose on top is hot and swollen. The lower hose, however, is cold and fine. I have bled it but it still goes into the red temp zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20045" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T20:57:44.730" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:46:48.733" Title="Overheating in E-46, 3.23i" Tags="|bmw|cooling-system|overheating|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33337" CreationDate="2016-07-24T11:42:02.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From little I know about cars, if you said you've bled the car properly and the problem is still continuing from what I know that the hose could and could not be the problem. The hose being hot and the bottom cold is normal this means it's working in a way, doing its job but if it's still overheating you could try changing the top hose if it's swollen there could be a pocket of air that could cause it to not let it through or get to the thermostat. But again you bled it , what I could say is try changing the thermostat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16538" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T11:42:02.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33334" CreationDate="2016-07-24T12:11:29.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to what &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmunds.com/mazda/3/2010/st-101148575/features-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I'm reading&lt;/a&gt;, the Axela is another name for the Mazda-3 we have here in the states. There are two engines offered for the vehicle: 2.0L &amp;amp; 2.5L. Both engines only require &quot;regular unleaded&quot;, regardless of transmission type. I don't believe either of these engines are turbocharged from the factory, so there's no forced induction necessitating the use of higher octane fuel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your numbers (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa.co.nz/membership/aa-directions/driver/fuel-duel-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;also what I read&lt;/a&gt;), it looks as though New Zealand uses a different method of rating octane that we do here in the States. Here we use the (R+M)/2 method, which gives us the average of the two rating methods (Research Octane Number or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Research_Octane_Number_.28RON.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RON&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; Motor Octane Number or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Motor_Octane_Number_.28MON.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MON&lt;/a&gt;). I'd suggest you are using just the RON which is the most commonly used world wide, plus the higher octane ratings than I'm used to. With that in mind, our 87 octane, would probably most closely equate to your 91, and so on up the scale. If 91 is considered &quot;regular unleaded&quot;, I'd suggest that is what you should be using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you can do is to run the 91 and see how it runs. Stress the engine a little bit. A couple of ways to stress the engine would be to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From a dead stop, take off in a spirited way ... IOW: get on it ... but not so much you make the tires break loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While travelling down the road, place the vehicle in a higher than normal gear (if manual shift). If you are going 25kph down the road and would normally be driving in 3rd gear, put it in 5th gear, then get on the go pedal a little harder than normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you'll be listening for the dreaded &quot;ping&quot; or &quot;knock&quot;. If you hear this, DO NOT push the car any further or harder. You'll want to put the next higher grade in at the next fill up and do this all over again. If you experience it at the next grade, then fill up with the 98 after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you'll be able to use the 91 octane with good results, though, as that's what it seems your car is supposed to be using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T12:11:29.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33337" CreationDate="2016-07-24T12:51:40.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the top hose is hot and swollen, while you can touch and hold the bottom hose (you said it was cool), I'd suggest your radiator is clogged ... quite severely in fact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal flow of coolant is from the top to the bottom of the radiator in most cars. If the top radiator hose is bloated and hot, it's getting some amount of fluid through it, but not enough. Since the bottom hose is much cooler to the touch, if you can grab and hold it, there isn't enough fluid flow through the radiator. Remember, the engine will heat up to operating temperature, which should be in the arena of 180-190°F, which means the coolant coming out of the bottom radiator hose is going to be hotter than what you'd be able to stand for any period of time. While it's not going to be the same temp as the coolant inside of the engine, it's still going to be rather hot, even just exiting the radiator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider getting the radiator flushed and see if that helps. If it doesn't, you may be looking at replacing the radiator. You'll definitely want to replace the upper (and possibly the lower) radiator hose. You lose cooling efficiency when it starts to bulge as you are suggesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T12:51:40.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T13:37:28.593" Score="8" ViewCount="2348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gonna fill our tractor with gas and there were to caps, a metal one a d a filter looking one, neither was labeled so I figured the metal cap was the gas cap, I put gas in it for just a few seconds an it exploded out, it was then drain in out a tube under the tractor. I think a lot of it came out and I left the cap off for awhile to let it evaporate hopefully, will it be fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20046" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T14:01:26.023" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T05:07:36.283" Title="Accidentally poured gas into antifreeze in tractor" Tags="|engine|tractor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33336" CreationDate="2016-07-24T13:40:08.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you regularly changed the brake fluid? A long overdue brake fluid can cause corrosion in the brake parts. When the seized brakes happen, do the brake pedal feels different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a sticking brake come from a seized brake piston in the caliper. If the calipers and brake hoses are 100% fine then i suspect either the master brake cylinder or the brake booster to be faulty. Explanation: One of these components sticks while actuating the brake and the brake boosters helps holding the brake closed. When turning the car off, the brake booster doesn't exercises force on the master cylinder and the brake piston in the caliper finally exercises enough pressure to overcome the resistance in the sticking part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the brake master cylinder or the brake booster is normally a work for a professional since its a source of single point failure, not allowing mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T13:40:08.657" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33324" CreationDate="2016-07-24T13:42:50.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest one of your relays has gone astray. You can test this fairly easily by swapping out relays, if they are the same. Just remember which order you have them in originally, and exchange them one for another. This will help you determine which relay is bad and should also allow you to get the top back up for the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could very well be the third relay which you talk about as having the issue. I'd try to replace it with one of the other two which is making noise and see if that doesn't temporarily solve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also manually test the relays. A typical four pronged relay should basically have two prongs which energize the relay, then the other two will have continuity when the relay is energized. If you aren't getting continuity when you energize the relay, then it's bad. Since I don't know the exact design of the relay, you'd have to research this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T13:42:50.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T15:11:44.627" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapped out LED taillights and third brake light on my '05 Sierra. Tail lights work fine but the third brake light will work when first plugged in but after a short while the cab lights don't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20048" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T15:46:44.047" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T15:46:44.047" Title="New LED 3rd brake light stops working" Tags="|gmc|tail-lights|led|sierra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:09:39.837" Score="4" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will any error which causes the check engine light to go on show up as a DTC during a regular OBDII scan?  This is obviously only in relation to OBDII compliant vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT July 26th, 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just ran across this page for VAG-COM, which is software for talking to VW-Audi Group cars.  On their page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/dtc-comparison.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DTC Comparison (Why a generic OBD-II scan tool can be useless)&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a real-world example from my car from September 2002.  My car (a 2000 GTI 1.8T) had stalled out several times over a period of a few weeks.    One evening leaving work, the car stalled, but I was able to restart it. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Check Engine Light was not on&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, but I scanned for codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes on to say that no DTC's showed up during a generic OBDII scan, but that ten proprietary VM-Audi codes showed up when scanned with their software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would seem to indicate to me that manufacturer specific codes don't set the CEL, although I guess this could vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:40:51.220" Title="Does a CEL always result in an OBDII DTC?" Tags="|obd-ii|cel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:11:22.370" Score="5" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a crash I had some work done to my car at an Audi approved bodyshop. This involved some respraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've got it back I've noticed dull matte marks on one side of the paintwork. They seem to be in a line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine they would have been there before. I would have spotted them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what this could be? I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T18:26:50.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T23:48:20.710" Title="Strange dull areas on paintwork after trip to bodyshop" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:11:22.587" Score="8" ViewCount="4416" Body="&lt;p&gt;1998 Mercedes E320 (57,000 miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has a bad vibration when in gear, but stopped with my foot on the brake. The vibration is not there in &lt;code&gt;neutral&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;park&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;reverse&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happens before the car warms up.  After it warms up, it runs really well. It also runs well when it's cold and the brake pedal is not down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could be causing this vibration?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I investigate the cause?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20049" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-24T20:35:56.677" LastActivityDate="2018-11-10T15:34:39.697" Title="Vibration when Stopped in Gear with Foot on Brake" Tags="|mercedes-benz|vibration|e320|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:21:49.833" Score="2" ViewCount="2643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Acura MDX 2008, and I recently noticed that the rear seat cup holder was broken. It won't open up. As I don't have a warranty on the vehicle, how can I fix this issue? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiHQj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AiHQj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An image of the cup holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14180" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T18:01:25.753" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T18:01:25.753" Title="Acura MDX rear-seat cup holder not opening" Tags="|interior|acura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:30:30.240" Score="3" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;My aftermarket led lights work at first but if I turn them on after a short period of time they don't? if I plug stock third brake light back in they work  fine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T17:30:30.240" Title="After market lights" Tags="|lights|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:36:30.477" Score="6" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;1967 Camaro SS 350 with Powerglide transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it will not start.  No click, no dimming of lights when key is turned, nothing happens. It will do this maybe one time out of 15 or 20 starting attempts.  It will always start after I push it into the garage or after I just go back &amp;amp; try it again later on.  It will do this with hot or cold engine. I put in a new starter &amp;amp; solenoid, new battery, bypassed the neutral safety switch (column shift), still have the same problem. Ground straps from eng. to body are all fine.  Not sure what to do next.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20054" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T07:56:38.533" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T19:23:38.430" Title="Intermittent starting problem" Tags="|electrical|starting|chevrolet|troubleshooting|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28763" CreationDate="2016-07-24T17:52:19.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Lotus Elise.&#xA;&quot;Pre&quot; 07, Lotus used H7.&#xA;07 and later, Lotus went to H7U.&#xA;The U is ultraviolet &quot;filtered.&quot;&#xA;Previous poster (commenter) is wrong.&#xA;The cheaper (and older) H7, put out tremendous ultraviolet light, damaging the headlight covers, degrading their clarity over time.&#xA;Just do a Google search &quot;2007 Lotus Elise headlight replacement&quot; and lots of posts from the Lotus community.&#xA;Those exotic car owners know their stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20055" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T17:52:19.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:22:33.217" Score="3" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 1980s Chevy 305 engine. Was out for early morning breakfast and noticed coolant was coming out of overflow tank. The motor had not gotten warm yet. What could be causing it to overflow???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20056" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T19:30:00.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T19:30:00.853" Title="Coolant loss out of overflow of an 1980 c-10" Tags="|chevrolet|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33388" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:29:51.323" Score="10" ViewCount="2878" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems all luxury cars have active suspensions now, so it's not a fair comparison to &quot;non-active&quot; cars.  But I was recently driving a mid-2000 Mercedes E-class over the same roads I normally travel with an Acura TL and Mazda 6 of the same vintage and I was astonished at how smooth the ride was in the Mercedes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, I wasn't racing, so maybe the trade-off would be clear if I was plying each car at the track.  But I'm not a passive driver, and the Mercedes did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have the &quot;land-yacht&quot; feel of older American luxury cars.  It felt as connected to the road as the other cars, and I didn't notice more excessive roll or dive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm wondering is: What accounts for the Mercedes' better ride?  &lt;strong&gt;Is there something &lt;em&gt;expensive&lt;/em&gt; that can be put in a non-active suspension that improves the ride without sacrificing handling?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that all of these cars use the same independent suspension at the wheels, and the same sorts of springs and dampers connecting to their unibody.  The particular cars I'm comparing even have roughly the same tire profiles.  I'm assuming that since many tens of thousands of each model were produced that every advantage that could be &quot;tuned in&quot; without using more expensive parts would have been.  So what could Mercedes, with more money, do to smooth out the ride that Acura and Mazda couldn't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T18:22:14.253" Title="How did luxury cars provide smoother rides without active suspensions?" Tags="|suspension|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33356" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:57:14.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tuned suspension would provide a smoother ride. That would be built into the design of the car at an early stage. &quot;Cheaper&quot; cars would have the extra &quot;engineering time&quot; to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not an expensive component, it's a more thought-out part of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T19:57:14.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33347" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:00:52.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CEL only comes on when a specific trouble code has been stored, that's it's purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:00:52.900" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33337" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:21:05.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Paulster, flushing your radiator is your first step. My personal preference is, if the radiator needs a flush that bad (not just a change of fluid), the entire cooling system probably needs it. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the engine is cold, remove your radiator cap. Find your radiator drain plug, place a large container underneath and open it. It's under the radiator, usually in one corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain your coolant tank as well. Usually, disconnect the rubber hose going to the radiator from it, remove the tank and turn it upside down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the coolant breather valve(s) and remove them, then find your engine block drain valve, place a large container under it and open it. It's usually above the oil pan but below your spark plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your heater to &quot;hot&quot; (don't need to start it), then find your heater core drain valve, place a large container underneat and open it. If you don't have a drain valve for the heater core, find the 2 rubber hoses going through the firewall, place a large container under them and disconnect them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reconnect all the hoses, close all drain valves (but not breather valves). Fill the radiator with what you've chosen to clean your system with. Water is cheap, a household chemical that removes calcium deposits and rust works better. When fluid starts coming out of the breather valves, close those valves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squish your radiator hoses to help move air out of the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you are 100% sure everything is closed, the system is filled and there are no leaks, start the engine. This will circulate the fluid around. If you are using a household cleaner, you may want to let it sit for an hour, give it a chance to do it's thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain the entire system again. Based on the colour of what's coming out, you may want to repeat the cleaning. If you are happy, fill it up with coolant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:21:05.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33334" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:42:07.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't trust the dealer. Instead, read your owner's manual and do keep in mind the different octane rating schemes pointed out by Paulster. If you don't have an owner's manual, &lt;a href=&quot;http://filemanager.evolio.ca/450MAZDABLAINVILLE/en/2010_mazda3_om_eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see if this one&lt;/a&gt; has your specific engine. If it does, it recommends RON 91.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:42:07.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:51:45.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two common, basic methods of tire hole fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy, cheap solution is to get a $5 kit from any auto store. The kit with the rubberish cord-like things that you shove in the hole from the &lt;strong&gt;outside&lt;/strong&gt;.  These work fairly well, especially if you aren't going to keep the car/tires a long time or drive a lot in real weather (e.g. snow/ice and 100+ degrees, 75mph, etc.).  I've used them for small holes like a nail.  I've had great success.  I've had one come out - when this happens, it could be a catastrophic failure if the whole plug comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better solution is a patch applied by taking off the tire, and patching from the &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt;. This is much more expensive, but much more reliable.  I prefer this method. While I'm sure it has happened, I've never known one of these to come out. These also work on slightly larger holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reference:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Safety_Maintenance/a/Tire-Repair-Plugging-Vs-Patching.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Safety_Maintenance/a/Tire-Repair-Plugging-Vs-Patching.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19911" LastEditorUserId="19911" LastEditDate="2021-11-11T22:39:43.850" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T22:39:43.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33023" CreationDate="2016-07-24T20:57:46.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am probably too late to help you with your problem now but I just experienced the same issue as you did. I figured out the problem. Everyone was wrong with their theories but the closest answer was the bearing. The inner race of the inside wheel bearing was not set in the rotor from the manufacturer deep enough therefore preventing your rotor from sliding all the way on the spindle. All you need to do is rent a bearing set tool from the part store and hammer the inner race of the wheel bearing in until you here the race seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20060" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T20:57:46.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33337" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:01:37.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the year, and I don't know BMWs well enough to infer it, but a clogged radiator concerns me – I don't think they &quot;naturally&quot; clog up, so there is something else going on as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One likely possibility is that you've got an incompatible mix of coolant. When that happens a sludge can form which could impair flow through the radiator. If that is the case you'll see it clearly in the fluid you drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say the lower hose is &quot;cold&quot; I assume you mean &quot;much colder than seems reasonable for a running engine&quot; as Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 pointed out, there will be a temperature drop across the radiator but the &quot;cool&quot; side is still going to be quite warm. One thing to check, if you can get at it, is the temperature of the radiator itself. There should be a &quot;smooth&quot; gradient of temperature across the radiator – not a large jump. If you notice a significant jump that is a very good sign of a blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:46:48.733" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:46:48.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:44:50.477" Score="8" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time I looked at this the A/C compressor clutch wasn't engaging. Long story short: the high side pressure switch on the back of the compressor was unplugged. Noted that the engine was shaking (like it was misfiring) as I was watching them add refrigerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day I get the call asking me to look at why the van wouldn't accelerate was misfiring etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had replaced the engine prior, the old one had head gasket problems as I was told. I was also told they compression tested the engine and all the numbers were roughly equal though they couldn't find the numbers they had written down. The intake gaskets are new and plugs and wires are new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking that the exhaust may have been plugged they disconnected both banks after the manifold, it still won't accelerate. They also tried with the MAF unplugged as well, more of the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulled whatever codes they had in the computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P0102&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0171&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0174&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0175  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense with the exhaust and MAF being unplugged. Though the P0175 may need to be looked at further once they hook the exhaust system back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleared the codes and let it idle while looking at misfire monitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On start up cylinders 1 &amp;amp; 8 showed around 80 misfire counts each. Then the misfire cycles stop for no apparent reason... At least this gives me a place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A capture of engine PIDS on a hot start. Engine MAP is high at idle, suggesting low engine vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFBDO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFBDO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have a vacuum gauge or transducer with me (I want a WPS500...) so I asked if they had one. Of course they couldn't find one, so I'll leave that for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few seconds of idling The check engine light comes on with a P0200 Injector Control Fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to focus on cylinder #1 as it was the easiest to access and I didn't have anything in the way of hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a capture of the bank 1 ignition and injectors at idle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trace 1 (Yellow) is the number one coil trigger.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trace 2 (Green) is the number one injector trigger.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trace 4 (Red) is the amperage reading taken at the ENG1 fuse. This powers all the bank 1 injectors and coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYR5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYR5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't look right... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suspect that the engine has multiple issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low engine vacuum according to the MAP sensor reading. Maybe a restricted MAP sensor port? Maybe, but I doubt it the range is too good on the PID capture. Bad MAP sensor? Another maybe. Leaking Intake? I'm pretty sure it is. There was a hissing sound but I couldn't nail down the source. I asked them to smoke test it when the engine was cold and get back to me. Valve timing? Another maybe. The P0175 may be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The P0200 code. Honestly I need more time with this one, why would the injector be firing so early? The timing looks off too. I think the harness connections may not be in the right spot. Or there's something wrong with the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas? Comments? I'll be taking another look at it tomorrow probably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T00:49:01.710" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T01:10:02.803" Title="04 GMC Savanna G2500 4.8 V8 No Power" Tags="|engine|troubleshooting|gmc|misfire|savanna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:56:20.283" Score="7" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to replace the original alternator on my '99 Z28 Camaro in January and have had 3 after market and 1 OE and all continue to discharge with air and radio on. Mechanic says it is fine but I think there is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator is connected to the ECU which seems to be working fine. What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20059" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T20:34:18.190" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T21:58:59.180" Title="Discharging alternators" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|alternator|camaro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33348" CreationDate="2016-07-24T23:48:20.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem would most likely be overspray and/or not finishing correctly. If there is a top clear coat and this wasn't cut/polished correctly, it could leave something like what you're talking about. This would be especially true if there was overspray somewhere which was not caught during the final finishing steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to take this back to the place which did the work and have them fix it. Most every place which deals through insurance companies have warranties on their work. If they don't (or won't) fix it, they may not be able to get any more work from the insurance company. Just tell them it is something you noticed after you retrieved the vehicle. If they don't want to do it, inform them you'll be calling your insurance company about it. This usually gets their attention. More than likely though, it was just an oversight, though it could have been a lazy finisher as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T23:48:20.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:05:24.803" Score="6" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2004 Audi a4 is making a gurgling noise from my engine. I am also having to constantly put antifreeze in it. Is this related? I know I'll have to take her to be looked at but can anyone tell me what I am to expect to hear of the issue and cost? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20067" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:26:55.880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T04:48:40.280" Title="My 2004 Audi a4 is making a gurgling noise from my engine" Tags="|troubleshooting|cooling-system|audi|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33318" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:25:35.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Got it!!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the replacement dipstick tube on hand so I knew how much was stuck in the engine. The broken dipstick in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN3B70IBA3s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; is much shorter but having the replacement on hand let me know I'd have to do something slightly different. But that video did mention it's probably not a good idea to drop something into the oil pan. So.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1. Get a Paper Mate #2 pencil and some earplugs. Take the spring out of the pencil and screw it into the earplug. Squish the ear plug and shove it deep enough into the dipstick tube that it will be out of the way. Once the earplug expands unscrew the spring and set it aside. Now you don't have to worry nearly as much about something falling into the oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AK6KS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AK6KS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2. Shove a plastic &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=SCREW+ANCHOR&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj__ZDSy43OAhWKOCYKHdrbCYMQ_AUICSgC&amp;amp;biw=1483&amp;amp;bih=874#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=SCREW+ANCHOR&amp;amp;chips=q:screw+anchor,g_1:plastic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;screw anchor&lt;/a&gt; into the dipstick tube. I was super duper lucky because I had one exactly the right size. Don't force it all the way down if it doesn't want to go that far. Once that's in screw in the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D9WBE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D9WBE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3. Initially I grabbed pliers right after step 2 and tried pulling the tube out. I couldn't get the right pulling situation setup though and had to start over a couple times. What eventually worked was to tie some straps in a knot around the screw, so that they catch on the screws head, and use the straps to pull the tube out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2Gu9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2Gu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4. For me the tube would rotate but really did not want to be pulled out. I had the earplug in there so that gave me some peace of mind about pulling &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt; on the straps. It only came out after pulling very hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zmfsu.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zmfsu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweet, sweet, sweet, sweet Victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19596" LastEditorUserId="19596" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:36:29.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:36:29.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:32:31.557" Score="2" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a battery with a higher CCA capacity is used in a warmer climate, would it effect the battery's performance in the longer run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20070" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T04:37:44.790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T20:29:45.193" Title="Higher CCA in batteries in warmer climates" Tags="|electrical|battery|cold-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33374" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:36:35.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, for the better. In warmer conditions the battery will have even an easier time delivering current and it won't go as deep into its reserves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T04:36:35.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33376" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:39:07.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subjects related to the heating and cooling system for the passenger compartment. Use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cooling-system&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cooling-system&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cooling-system&lt;/a&gt; tag for engine cooling related questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17784" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T14:17:31.423" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T14:17:31.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33377" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:39:07.650" Score="0" Body="Subjects related to the heating and cooling system for the passenger compartment. Use the [cooling-system] tag for engine cooling related questions." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-12-31T14:17:35.567" LastActivityDate="2019-12-31T14:17:35.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33370" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:48:40.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Open the hood a listen for where the gurgling is coming from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the water pump and listen there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen near the radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen near the coolant tank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen near the top of the engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look for where your coolant is going:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for puddles or stains where you usually park&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the &lt;strong&gt;engine off&lt;/strong&gt;, look near the belts for drops of liquid, stains, and spray marks (could be the water pump is leaking, if it is you need a new one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look in front, behind and under the radiator for liquid, stains, and spray patterns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at your two radiator hoses and squeeze them, see if it makes them leak (they need to be replaced if they leak)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the hoses coming from the water pump, squeeze them to see if it makes them leak (they need to be replaced if they leak)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at your heater core hoses and squeeze them to see if it makes them leak (they need to be replaced if they leak)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T04:48:40.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33316" CreationDate="2016-07-25T04:54:46.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could that be plugged with a proper internal plug? Absolutely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could that be plugged with a temporary cord plug? Sure, thick cord plugs with extra cement would do that.  I've plugged bigger holes than that using cord, but it'll eventually start leaking again as the cement weathers out of the fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no insight into what you expect as an owner/driver, but as someone who does their own maintenance and lives on a gravel road full of construction and mining debris, plugged tires just need to remain in your memory.  Don't ask for tire repairs to be forgettable.  Keep an eye on the repair as a point of maintenance.  A leaking plug can always be punched out and replugged.  The thing to watch out for rust damage to the belting in the puncture area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17291" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T04:54:46.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33293" CreationDate="2016-07-25T07:45:48.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say there's a problem with the CVT, maybe with the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The CVT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At idle or when the motor is off, the belt should run at the edge of the rear pulley and at a really small radius around the front pulley, as seen in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7siS6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7siS6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When speeding up, the belt should should rise in the front pulley and sink into the rear pulley, which causes the change in transmission ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's see how it works: The front pulley consists of a simple outer sheave, while the inner on consists of two plates with typically six cylindrical weights (green) between them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4lRW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4lRW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The centrifugal force of the running motor pushes the weights outwards and so the plates (of the inner sheave!) apart, making the pulley narrow and the belt rising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As counter-force, the rear pulley contains a big spring which pushes its sheaves together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your belt&lt;/strong&gt; runs at about the same, constant radius around both pulleys, which is strange. I'd say either something is wrong with the weights, seizing the front pulley at a fixed position, or the spring is broken, so there's not enough counter-force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front pulley can easily be taken apart (you already did it to change the belt, right?). Inspect the inner sheave, if it can move, and if the weights are still cylindrical. (They wear out over time, but can be damaged by an event like a snapping belt. If you need to replace them: They have a specific weight, determining the motor RPM. You need to know that weight, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspection of the rear pulley is a little more difficult. As a first test on a 50cm³ scooter, one would try to pull the sheaves apart by hand, which should be hard, but possible. I guess it's impossible for a 250cm³ scooter, and you have to disassemble the pulley to check it. Therefore, you first have to disassemble...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;...the clutch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A scooter clutch is similar to a drum brake, except that the inner part with the pads is connected to the pulley and so rotating. The pads are kept back by small springs, but with increasing RPM, the pads move outwards, and start slipping at the drum. With even more RPM, they don't slip any more, and the clutch is fully engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drum is the outer part beneath rear pulley. It is connected to the wheel by a transmission, and when the wheel can spin freely, you should be able to turn the drum without any force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drum is shattering in your video, because it is right at the point between slipping and idle. This is strange, because even when your motor is at idle, the RPM of the rear pulley should be high enough for a completely engaged clutch due to your odd CVT ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have to disassemble the clutch anyway, check it for obvious damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering: A 250cm³ motor should be strong enough to accelerate a free spinning wheel even when the CVT is seized in a &quot;high gear&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine that the clutch tries to engange at too low motor RPM, when the motor doesn't have any power. This could cause the motor to bog, but to stop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be, there's even more damage, and your motor doesn't have any power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one evil question: You checked the size of the belt four times. Size means length and width, and you checked both, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T07:45:48.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:40:02.983" Score="3" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car first ran out of gas at a quarter tank of gas. A few weeks later it ran out at half a tank. Then it started dieing while driving down the road and now it won't start at all. It will turn over and sometimes try to start but won't  catch. What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20074" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T15:19:01.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:41:31.553" Title="2004 Mazda 3 runs out of gas while gauge still show fuel" Tags="|fuel-system|troubleshooting|mazda-3|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:42:18.397" Score="14" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the limiting factor(s) for bore/stroke ratios are, and how over-square an engine can go in the search for higher rpm and hp (motorcycles specifically)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that rpm is limited by an average piston speed of roughly 25 m/s, and reducing stroke allows for higher rpm, since it lowers piston speeds. Many sport bikes have b/s ratios of only about 1.6:1 to 1.8:1, with piston speeds just under 25 m/s. It seems like the valve springs are probably the limiting factor for rpm, and they just set the ratio as high as needed to stay under 25 m/s, meaning the over-square limit would not be reached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the valve system could handle it (such as desmodromic), what would limit the bore/stroke ratio and how high could it get? The highest production ratio i could find is Ducati's Desmosecidi RR at 2:1 (86 x 43 mm). I'm also wondering why it kept the same 14,000ish rpm as other litrebikes despite having lower stroke (around 17,500 rpm at 25 m/s), desmo valves, geardriven cams, and a perfectly balanced 90 degree V4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20153" LastEditorUserId="20153" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T08:31:00.760" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T09:24:43.480" Title="How over-square can you go?" Tags="|motorcycle|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33381" CreationDate="2016-07-25T08:59:50.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming by 'ran out of gas at quarter tank', you mean the car wouldn't start until you put more gas, but quarter of the tank was filled with proper fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, number of things can be at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank (usually under the rear seat) and pumps fuel from the tank to the engine. This is usually a quick job to take out and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car is also equipped with GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection), it can have a second, smaller fuel pump closer to the engine. If the main pump is not faulty, this would be my second guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are number of other things that may cause this type of situation (ECU, Fuel tank sensor, crank/cam shaft sensors if your car has them .etc.) But fuel pumps and fuel lines is probably a good starting point given the limited information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T08:59:50.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T14:24:17.340" Score="4" ViewCount="8466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 2011 Honda Odyssey.  The last time I had my oil changed, they neglected to reset the oil change indicator (relevant because I'm assuming it would have come back on sooner when my oil level dropped but it didn't occur to me that my oil level could drop so excessively in a short period of time with no oil leak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned today that these vehicles have a problem with excessive oil consumption.  I learned this as a result of finding my engine light on this morning.  I drove straight to my oil change place so they could hook it up to the diagnostic machine and had my oil changed.  Turns out I only had about 1.5 quarts of oil running through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The van seems to be running fine but the engine light is still on.  The codes it gave are P3400 and P3497.  P3497 is a service bulletin indicating a need for a software update to address the excessive oil consumption so I don't expect the light to go off until we've had a chance to do that but I'm wondering if there's a chance that I did irreparable damage to the engine driving it with so little oil.  Would it be obvious or could something still happen like throwing a rod?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20076" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:27:25.640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:27:25.640" Title="Drove with extremely low oil, engine light on" Tags="|oil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-07-25T22:55:10.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2016-07-25T14:51:09.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be due to a dirty IAC (idle air control) valve. It is a very common problem spot. Clean or replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20077" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:46:37.330" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:46:37.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T15:45:04.800" Score="5" ViewCount="1402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having an issue where after my car is off for a while the radio will turn back on and stay on until the battery is drained. I have had a large Chevy dealership along with Best Buy's automotive team (the ones who installed my new radio) and no one can seem to figure out what would be causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radio always turns off after I turn off the engine and open door, so it does shut off correctly at first, but some days I will come back out to either a dead car or the radio being on (I can look into the car window and see it lit up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both places have done full electrical charging system checks and everything has been perfect, but no one can seem to figure out why my radio keeps turning itself back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some things I can try to do or bring up when I see the mechanic(s) again this week (as I am not much of a car person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Best Buy is going to swap out a module this Thursday to see if that clears up the issue. They think that maybe another component could be triggering it to turn on, such as On Star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2 (August 1st): Removed the module, radio still stays on AND even if the screen is removed over night my vehicle's battery is still being drained to the point where it will not turn on. I am guessing the module is needed to turn off some other components. Going to have mechanic re-add the module and I will attempt to just remove my screen each night to see if that solution works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8/29 UPDATES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to take off the screen at night and call it good. However my car is still dying randomly, one morning it starts fine, the next morning it is dead. I have had 4 places now verify my charging system, startup, and battery. All results are perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do notice when I return to my car sometimes that I can see the P (park) light lit up on the dashboard, I am wondering if something is triggering my electronics to turn back on (might be why the radio is acting up too). I also have noticed that sometimes when I open the car door (after it was off/locked) the ringer starts non-stop (the one that usually indicates that your key is still in the ignition or that your lights are on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some googling (because I know squat about cars) and it sounds like it could be an ignition switch issue with it turning back to acc? Usually in those scenarios though people say nothing turns off right away, whereas in my car my electronics usually turn off but then turn back on later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any new guidance appreciated!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Update (5/27/18)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It ended up being the ignition switch. It was somehow turning back into ACC (accessory) mode. I replaced it several months ago and no longer have this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20079" LastEditorUserId="20079" LastEditDate="2018-05-27T19:30:39.443" LastActivityDate="2018-05-27T19:30:39.443" Title="(UPDATED 8/29) 2006 Hummer H3's radio (Pioneer NEX 4200) turns back on after the car is off" Tags="|electrical|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33381" CreationDate="2016-07-25T15:53:01.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem seems to be a &quot;moving target.&quot; It sounds like the problem first presented as &quot;car stops suddenly while driving and even though the fuel gauge shows what should be adequate fuel, adding fuel gets the car going again.&quot; Then it moved to &quot;dying while driving down the road&quot; and now it &quot;won't start.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good that you've got a bit of history on this and can explain some of how you got to the current &quot;won't start&quot; condition. The fuel system is complicated enough that it may take some work to even identify a logical process to pursue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a reasonable place to start is by thinking that something is preventing the engine from getting enough fuel. Based on what you've said so far, I'm inclined to suspect the vent system on the fuel tank. If it were plugged, a vacuum would be crated as the engine drew fuel from the tank. Eventually the vacuum could overcome the fuel pump and the engine would be starved for fuel. If this is happening you might notice a &quot;whooshing&quot; sound as you open the fuel cap and air is able to enter the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a good world, designers would anticipate this, and at the very least the components of the fuel system that could be subject to the vacuum would be designed with enough strength to tolerate the vacuum. In the real world, factors such as component cost and weight or perhaps a safeguard that is supposed to prevent a vacuum from forming may lead engineers to decide that they cannot or do not need to make fuel system components strong enough to tolerate a vacuum. So it is possible that the evolution of the problem is due to something collapsing under vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the fuel pump which has been working harder than normal to pull fuel out of the tank against a vacuum has failed, leading to your inability to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to proceed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Listen to the ideas that will be presented about what the problem is, and see if you can recall any clues that might help support one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that problems sometimes compound, for example as Madushan suggested in the first answer, as your self (or your mechanic) &quot;what could have caused this to fail.&quot; Try to find and fix the root cause. Cars in general – even the worst of them – and electrical components in particular tend to be very reliable. So when they fail it is important to try to identify and correct the cause of the failure. Otherwise it may come right back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; careful working around the fuel system, gasoline ignites easily. Learn and take adequate safety precautions if you decide to work on this yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep revising your question as you learn more about the problem. That will make it much easier to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T15:53:01.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33356" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:07:03.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming they were the base models, the two cars you mentioned (Acura TL and Mazda6) are both Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), while the Mercedes is Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD). The FWD cars, having both their engine and transaxle mounted over the front wheels, have a front-biased weight distribution, requiring stiffer front springs to control the weight. The higher spring rate required to retain a responsive steering feel will result in a stiffer ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noise dampening will also play a role in how you perceive the ride quality. Sound insulation and robust equipment will add to the total curb weight of the vehicle. As such, the Mercedes is the heaviest of the cars you mentioned, weighing in at ~3900 lbs, while the Acura clocks in around 3700 lbs, and the Mazda at 3200 lbs. Maintaining a high level of steering feel despite the extra weight is simply a matter of tuning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes notoriously &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topgear.com/car-news/insider/mercedes-spends-ps10m-day-research-and-development-heres-how&quot;&gt;sinks 10,000,000 £&lt;/a&gt; a day (or whatever the German equivalent is, I only understand freedom units) into its Research &amp;amp; Development (R&amp;amp;D) department. Seeing as they are still in business, you can bet they have devised some pretty clever ways of making their cars feel as premium as their image suggests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Caution: Impending sarcasm - &quot;Abandon all hope, ye who enter here&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible, though slightly improbable, that Mercedes pulled some kind of VW style software trickery to specifically sense your keister in the seat, and soften the suspension just so you could pose this very question, gaining them internet notoriety, which is paramount to getting more money from those computer savvy millennials. Come to think of it.. how do we know you don't work for Mercedes!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T21:48:29.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T21:48:29.653" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33386" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:09:57.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I assume it did not do this until you had the new radio installed? If not that puts the problem pretty squarely at Best Buy's feet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Observe carefully to see if there is a pattern to the radio turning itself on. Does it always happen? Or does it only happen if…? How long does it take before it comes back on? What you discover here will both make it easier to diagnose (intermittent problems are the worst, if you can give the mechanics a &quot;recipe&quot; for reproducing the problem it will help tremendously) and it may also offer clues as to what the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are likely several power and sense leads to the radio that it uses to determine when it should be on and off and also to maintain stored settings. Those all need to be connected and connected to the proper places for the radio and car to interact the way they were designed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the problem is a defect in the radio, but if it is not then you will likely see a change on one of the power or sense leads to the radio when it turns back on. Ask the mechanics if they have a device that will let them monitor the radio wires. I would imagine some sort of data logger that would record the voltage on the wires over time and let them see changes. Kind of like a slow-motion oscilloscope.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider simplifying the wiring to the radio. If there are &quot;smart&quot; connections, they may be connected to the wrong circuit in the vehicle. Disconnecting them may change the behavior and give you good clues.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the radio itself may be defective.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:09:57.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33390" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:19:52.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions related to leaks of operating fluids, control vacuum, or in the intake or exhaust systems. For leaks in the bodywork (e.g., rain coming in) use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/water-leak&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;water-leak&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;water-leak&lt;/a&gt; and/or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/body-work&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;body-work&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;body-work&lt;/a&gt; tags. Also consider using fluid specific tags, for example add &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/coolant&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;coolant&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;coolant&lt;/a&gt; if you have a known coolant leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17784" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T13:22:23.350" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:22:23.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33391" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:19:52.897" Score="0" Body="Questions related to leaks of operating fluids, control vacuum, or in the intake or exhaust systems. For leaks in the bodywork (e.g., rain coming in) use the [water-leak] and/or [body-work] tags. Also consider using fluid specific tags, for example add [coolant] if you have a known coolant leak." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T13:22:16.563" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T13:22:16.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:54:55.020" Score="6" ViewCount="1279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yamaha WR426F that after a bit of trailing has a small (couple drops) puddle of oil underneath it after sitting a bit. It seems to be coming from the breather tube, is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a title with the bike that has it described as an enduro does it mean that it is street legal? It has brake light, mirror and horn. The state is Illinois. Sorry if the last question is not suited for this category just don't know where to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:56:12.523" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:56:12.523" Title="2001 WR426F Leaks a bit of oil out of the breather tube, is it normal?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil-leak|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33384" CreationDate="2016-07-25T17:23:29.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two oil related warning systems on that car. One is the oil light which warns of low oil pressure and the other is the maintenance light (the wrench). I'm assuming that you got the maintenance light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're pretty sure that you haven't been seeing the oil light there is a good chance that nothing too terrible has happened, you will probably have been running with the oil a bit (or even a lot) hotter than it should  be, but as long as there was consistent oil pressure chances are good that you haven't suffered major damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like the peace of mind you could get an oil analysis done at your next oil change. If damage was done (and you don't notice significant differences in the sound or behavior of the engine) it will most likely be in the form of damage to bearings that will result in accelerated wear. This will show up as a higher than normal level of bearing metals in the used oil when you have it analyzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all-in-all if you are a relatively conservative driver – and aren't noticing any change in the car's performance or sounds – you are probably ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But do get the codes attended to and see if you can make it a habit to check your oil with the dipstick. You could do it at every fill up. When you do that also take some time to look at the engine a bit over time you will become familiar with it and noticing any other changes can really help with maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:23:29.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31933" CreationDate="2016-07-25T17:36:07.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad battery, even though it initially tested well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19168" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:36:07.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33396" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:06:01.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practical questions related to engine power, or the loss thereof. Questions about electrical power and electrically-powered accessories should use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/electrical&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;electrical&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;electrical&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17784" LastEditorUserId="36092" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T09:55:43.207" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T09:55:43.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33397" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:06:01.517" Score="0" Body="Practical questions related to engine power – or the loss thereof. Questions about electrical power and electrically-powered accessories should use the [electrical] tag." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="36092" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T18:35:36.147" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T18:35:36.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33381" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:41:31.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem like this once, it turned out to be the fuel filter. Sometimes the filter would clog while I was driving, but after the engine died and the fuel pressure dropped, the gunk in the filter would shift and I could re-start it again right away. Sometimes I had to let the car sit overnight. If your car has an in-line fuel filter, try removing it and blowing it out with some compressed air (I actually used my mouth, but I was on the side of the road in the rain so I was desperate). Then reinstall it and see if your car runs better. In some cars, the filter is part of the fuel pump assembly, so you won't be able to do that easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:41:31.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33069" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:01:00.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your alternator is not putting out full power – or perhaps the alternator output isn't getting to the battery. Often the wiring is set up so that the alternator is connected to the battery and all of the vehicle loads are connected from the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the wire between the alternator and the battery is damaged or the connections are corroded then there is a possibility that the battery will not get fully charged and the vehicle loads won't get adequate power. You can test this by connecting a volt meter between the alternator output terminal and the battery positive terminal while the engine is running – be careful to stay away from belts and fans and anything else that can move. Set the meter on the lowest DC voltage scale and check. The reading sound be 0.00 V – or very close to it – assuming 4 AWG wire and a load of 50 A and perfect connections the drop on a four foot cable would be (based on 0.0004 Ω / foot) about 0.03 V. If you see anything more than 0.05 to 0.1 V I would be &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; suspicious of the cable and/or its connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same current will also be flowing in the ground path, but this may be much harder to check. Still if nothing else makes sense, you can do worse than to go through the car checking and cleaning the ground connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities include a failing voltage regulator, or perhaps an alternator pulley that is too small. Check the voltage at the output of the alternator when the engine is idling, it should around 14 V in most cars, maybe a bit lower (13.5 ish) if the battery is fully charged or if the alternator pulley doesn't allow full output at idle. As you increase the engine speed the output should go up a bit and peak around 14.2 V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T19:01:00.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:20:28.810" Score="6" ViewCount="58616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my front pads and rotor replaced on my 2012 Jeep Patriot but within one week I heard a thumping sound when breaking.  The repair shop warrantied out both the rotors, and when the problem came back replaced the pads as well.  This appeared to work. I began to hear the same sound in the rear wheels. I had my back rotors replaced and back pads warrantied out and within  a few days I hear the same noise. Not sure what the next steps would be, the noise is quite frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20082" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T19:48:33.860" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T14:15:01.713" Title="Thumping noise after pad and rotor replacement" Tags="|brakes|noise|jeep|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:21:38.170" Score="3" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Nissan Altima SE 3.5v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my tie rods replaced with new ones and the same sound they made when they went bad is back again. I noticed that the boot had come loose and I had to reattach it and add more grease. This worked for a couple days. Now, every time I brake it makes a horrible clicking and grinding noise like it did when my tie rods were bad, and a knocking squealing that is always there when I use my brakes in Drive. Using the brakes in Reverse does not make any of those sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my idler pulley is so loud, that at times it drives me crazy. It gets quieter sometimes, but it's always clicking. What exactly do I need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20083" LastEditorDisplayName="user12176" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T00:01:01.493" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T00:01:01.493" Title="Brakes or front tie rods" Tags="|brakes|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33401" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:34:51.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grinding when braking is usually low brake pads; I'm surprised, however, that the garage that did the tie rods didn't advise on new pads (and maybe rotors if you're hearing really bad noises). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've had to add grease to 'something' in that area with a boot on, it's likely the CV joint. That could make clicking and clunking sounds (but not a grinding sound). If it's gone, the quickest/cheapest/easiest solution is to replace the entire driveshaft on that side. The best test for a worn CV joint is to drive in tight circles, left and right, in a car park, and listen for the noise. The damaged side is the one on the opposite to your turn (so if you're turning right, and hear the noise, it's the left-hand CV joint that's gone)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're hearing noise from an idler pulley (not related to the brake noise, of course), then you're looking at, at a minimum, replacing the idler pulley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best recommendation is to take the car to a brake specialist; Tell them about the symptoms, and don't put solutions in their mouths. See what they recommend; if two or more shops recommend the same fix, go with the one you feel most comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T19:34:51.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33374" CreationDate="2016-07-25T20:29:45.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically it should last slightly longer. Just plugging in numbers as a simple reference, say a 1000CCA battery degraded 10% per year. After 5 years the battery could supply about 590 amps. If the smaller battery started at 750 amps, after 5 years if it degraded at the same rate it could supply about 440 amps. If your particular vehicle required a 500 amp battery the larger battery would be sufficient after 5 years. The smaller battery would not have the reserve capacity needed and need replacement. But if you factor in the added cost of the battery, how long you intend to keep the vehicle, along with the reduced mileage due to the extra weight, the larger battery may not make economic sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T20:29:45.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23858" CreationDate="2016-07-25T20:56:14.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A whistling sound implies an air or vacuum leak. With the break servo it will be a vacuum leak. A servo failure at &amp;lt; 100,000 miles seems quite unusual. Be sure to check that the leak is from the servo and not from the vacuum hose serving it. I'm much more suspicious of the hose than of the servo unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T20:56:14.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33382" CreationDate="2016-07-25T21:10:15.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;(From an engine kinematics perspective)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Increasing bore-to-stroke ratio (B:S) has two potential effects&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It reduces piston-to-head clearance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to maintain the same piston displacement and compression ratio (CR), the gap between the piston at top-dead-centre (TDC) and head has to become smaller.&#xA;This is because a larger bore implies a smaller stroke for the same displacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I crunched some numbers for a simple flat piston with dimensions similar to the Desmosedici engine (0.25 l). At 13.5:1 CR the clearance between the cylinder head and piston is 3.19 mm, so the Ducatisti engineers don't really have a lot of room to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I crunched some more numbers for different bore-to-stroke ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At B:S 1.6 the clearance climbs to 3.70 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At B:S 2.5 the clearance falls to 2.75 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not sound like much difference but it is what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not qualified to comment on how much this kind of difference in clearance can make to tooling and manufacturing costs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;To maintain piston-to-head clearance, you have to reduce CR&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that CR affects thermal efficiency, and subsequently torque and power output (I'll keep constraints like knocking/auto-ignition out of this discussion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crunched some numbers for B:S 2.5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To maintain 3.19 mm clearance at TDC the CR needs to drop from 13.5 to 11.65.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's roughly 4-5 % loss of efficiency. All else equal, if the engine originally makes 170 hp, you'd have to make do with about 8 fewer horses with the increased bore.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now one could combat the expected loss in torque with higher revs, which leads in to your second question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be many reasons why the engineers chose to limit the rev counter to a certain value, including material limits, reliability requirements and (possibly) rotordynamic concerns. It's not kinematics holding the rev limit back, it's something else that is known only to Ducati.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T21:10:15.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29697" CreationDate="2016-07-25T21:21:28.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your pictures, I don't think you need any filler. Just sand down and feather the areas, use a high build urethane primer to fill in any low spots, and paint. If you need a little filler (I highly doubt you will) &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00GQ1X1MQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;icing&lt;/a&gt; works well for shallow scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought I just had, if the scratches were really deep, you could fill them in/build the area up with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HvV9a3lEe2g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plastic welder,&lt;/a&gt; then sand it back down to smooth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7548" LastEditorUserId="7548" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T23:14:32.523" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T23:14:32.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T21:24:23.933" Score="5" ViewCount="2729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently replaced the fuel filter and added a fuel additive of my Cayenne, both are bought from Porsche company, but the very next day I drove my car and it starts to stumble and stalls. Would this be a clogged injectors and how can I resolve the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20087" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T21:36:46.343" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T20:28:36.973" Title="Car stumbles and stalls after adding fuel additive" Tags="|fuel-system|porsche|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33382" CreationDate="2016-07-25T21:46:03.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At higher RPM's (right around 12,000 rpm for most applications), the time it takes for valves to open and close is way too long using only spring tension, engines need an engineering solution for this, therefore it adds to the complexity and cost of the engine. It's doable and it's been done, but a high-revving engine will always be pricier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T21:46:03.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T22:19:15.013" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;1994 Dodge Grand Caravan SE 3.3 ltr. &#xA;Right rear vibration at low speeds. Feels like it vibrates right as it is going to change gears for the last time. It's an automatic, has what appears to be new air shocks. We replaced the wheel bearings, front struts, and left CV joint. The motor and transmission mounts, tires balanced, and an alignment. I thought perhaps it had something to do with the transmission, but I'm not a mechanic. Any thoughts?&#xA;We replaced both CV axles, they were bad. Still feel vibration at low speeds. The vibration is at any speed under 45 and it's front wheel drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20088" LastEditorUserId="20095" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T02:08:04.580" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T02:08:04.580" Title="Rear right side vibration" Tags="|dodge|vibration|grand-caravan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T22:26:47.477" Score="7" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mechanic replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends on my 1994 Dodge 1500 and now the steering sticks so badly that it's dangerous to drive. What could be the cause and solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20063" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T22:39:40.783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T12:50:23.430" Title="Why are my new tie rod ends or ball joints sticking?" Tags="|dodge|steering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33430" CreationDate="2016-07-25T23:00:28.203" Score="6" ViewCount="2941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/33388/12816&quot;&gt;comments here&lt;/a&gt;: I'm not the only one who has experienced an improvement in ride and road-feel with a heavily-laden vehicle.  I'm recalling a long drive I made a decade ago in my otherwise crappy 1995 Mitsubishi Galant with nearly half a ton of equipment.  That load turned it into a &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; car: Its ride went from flighty and harsh to soft and planted.  It was not only more connected to the road, but its response to imperfections were more dampened &amp;ndash; characteristics I have only seen &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt; in much more expensive cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All I did was add weight to transform it from the car I &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; to drive into a car I &lt;em&gt;wanted&lt;/em&gt; to drive.  The question is: Why?  And more particularly: Can that effect be reproduced without actually adding half a ton of unneeded weight?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that much weight made several changes to the vehicle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifted the center of mass to the rear, and lowered it a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compressed the suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which would have also increased negative camber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently, I have taken to aligning all my cars to the limits of their negative camber specs, so I can appreciate what that does, but it doesn't nearly account for everything I experienced saddling that old sedan with weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent plenty of time in near 50/50 RWD cars, so I know what neutral weight distribution feels like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm very convinced that whatever the weight did to the suspension had a great deal to do with the car becoming &quot;smooth and connected.&quot;  And in retrospect it &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; like that would make sense: After all, with static suspension components manufacturers have to design in enough room for the vehicle to take a load up to its gross vehicle weight, without riding on the stops or pushing the wheels out of line.  With a single passenger a standard sedan is half a ton shy of its design weight.  Is it plausible that an unladen standard suspension allows more noise and is less connected?  Or, put another way, if you knew you were never going to put more than a 200-pound passenger in a sedan, could you take the &quot;excess&quot; out of the suspension and expect a better ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12816" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:23:39.243" Title="Why do vehicles handle better with heavy loads?" Tags="|suspension|automotive-design|handling|vehicle-dynamics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2016-07-26T14:57:45.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T23:14:28.060" Score="6" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;70,000 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every once in a while when my wife is driving, randomly the &quot;transmission above temp&quot; comes on and the engine revs.  She puts the truck in neutral, shuts the truck off, then back on.  The above temp goes away and the reving stops.  This also happens randomly when she goes to park after a drive.  All fluids are filled, and the trans fluid is not burnt.  The fact that once she turns the truck off and back on, and the temp thing stays off makes me think the transmission is not overheating and it is something else.   Anyone have any ideas, or hear about this before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20089" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T06:49:38.947" Title="2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee transmission issue" Tags="|automatic-transmission|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T00:53:43.743" Score="5" ViewCount="7049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1971 Ford F250 XLT. I was driving it down the highway and I realized I needed oil badly. I told my wife &quot;we gotta get oil first thing tomorrow&quot; and she said okay. 5 minutes later, 10 minutes from my house, the engine started to make a weird noise, and smoke started to come out from the engine. I wasted no time and parked right away on the side of the road. Turned it off, and opened the hood. The engine was smoking and making this bubbly noise. My parents came to pick up my wife and I.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next day I came back with 10w30 oil, put it in. When I try to start it, the engine makes a thump noise. The starter is working because a little bit of smoke comes out of the starter when I try to to start it and the belt moves for a split second and doesn't move anymore. Like something is in the way of it moving. It's not the battery. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20093" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T01:43:35.757" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T01:43:35.757" Title="Engine noise and smoke while driving with low oil, no longer starts" Tags="|engine|starter|truck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33417" CreationDate="2016-07-26T01:00:18.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your engine may have seized. The thump and smoke from the starter sound like the starter is trying to turn the engine but can't. Starter motors are usually unfused, so if the motor can't turn the engine for some reason they will quickly generate a lot of heat. That would explain the smoking from the starter, its not a good sign (either for your engine or for the starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't keep trying to turn the engine over with the starter, the most likely thing that will happen there is that the heat will destroy the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're game to do the work yourself and have access to an engine lift, it is probably no more than a day's work to put in a recycled engine from a similar truck. It could be more if you have to move over a lot of accessories or if you want to take the time to do some maintenance on the new old engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got the time and can afford to do the work it could be a fun project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T01:38:14.893" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T01:38:14.893" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T01:01:01.093" Score="5" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a 2006 toyota pick up truck and a 2000 mustang with a dead battery.  Cable's have been Properly connected.  1, I can get no current flow, no jump from the toyota, yet it starts the pick up just fine. 2, the pick up truck now will not hold it's idle.  It idle's down until it's ready to die out.  Can trying to get a jump from the pick up truck cause the throttle to lose it's idle setting?  No blown fuses, relays, no electrical system problems.  Just the throttle lost it's idle setting.&#xA;A mechanic who reset the throttle, and flushed it (milked it really), says a power surge could have happened.  Power surge? From where, the dead battery?  I know nobody likes to say I don't know, but I'm pretty sure he didn't know what caused the problem.  I'm going with a freakish coincidence.   Any ideas?, theory's?                          Thank you for your thoughts and help.  John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20092" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T18:18:45.757" Title="Idle doesn't hold on 2006 Toyota pick up truck after giving a jump, actually failing to give a jump." Tags="|electrical|battery|rough-idle|jump-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33325" CreationDate="2016-07-26T02:09:29.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the cooling fan relay. Check for power on terminals 2 and 3 and ground on terminal 1 and on terminal 3 when the engine is hot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminals 1 and 3 are the output to the cooling fan and the switch ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminals 2 and 4 are fused power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're missing any of these when the engine is hot work backwards from the relay. Inspect the wiring. Check continuity. Recheck your fuses. Check the ground side of the cooling fan switch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:09:29.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T03:40:03.353" Score="0" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I BEING TOLD THAT MY TRANSMISSION BURN IT WAS RUNING PERFECTLY AND SUDLENLY I WASNT ABLE TO SPEED MORE THAN 20MPH BUT STILL RUNS IM NOT SURE IF IS TRUTH SINCE FIRTS THEY SAID ALL I NEED TO DO WAS A TUNE UP FOR IT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20099" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T07:57:42.733" Title="WHAT ARE THE SPECIFIC SYMPTOMS OF BURN TRANSMISSION" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29568" CreationDate="2016-07-26T03:54:13.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out it was an intermittently open wire to the cam position sensor. Unfortunately between then and now one of the mechanics bent the valves by installing the intake cam upside down so I still don't have a working car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17271" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T03:54:13.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33423" CreationDate="2016-07-26T06:05:57.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a &quot;burnt up&quot; transmission, you are likely to see that your transmission fluid is a very dark color instead of pink, and may feel gritty if you rub it between your fingers, and may also have a &quot;burnt&quot; smell if you smell it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T06:05:57.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T07:45:16.870" Score="4" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fault code 15 on my display. Checked the TPS, it has the right resistance on all cables combinations. Also correct voltage on yellow - black when its attached to wire harness and the ignition switch is on. Also measured the resistance from the wire harness connector to ECU connector and no broken cables in wire harness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I miss? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does my ECU still sees that there is something wrong and sends the fault code 15 to my display? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20102" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T18:09:06.657" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T17:59:17.203" Title="2002 Yamaha YZF R1- Fault code 15" Tags="|motorcycle|sensor|yamaha|throttle|code|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33423" CreationDate="2016-07-26T07:57:42.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one of your auto transmission clutches is burnt, then the clutch will not be working, therefore at least one of your 'gears' will not work.  A symptom would be that your engine would rev high, but you wouldn't be able to go any faster.  Being limited to 20 MPH certainly sounds like a it could be a burnt clutch.  @Robert S. Barnes is correct that the transmission fluid will also be dirty with clutch lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T07:57:42.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33414" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:06:34.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smoothness of the ride is determined by the ability of the suspension to respond to changes in the road surface without affecting the body of the car.  The ratio of sprung to un-sprung weight will greatly affect this.  By increasing sprung weight with more luggage, your car body will have greater inertia and therefore will allow the wheels to move up and down on the road without moving the body, thus making the drive more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="12816" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T13:23:39.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:23:39.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33414" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:36:50.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably the bulk of the equipment was in the boot / low down.  If you'd strapped it to the roof you might not have found the same improvement in handing came about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you had effectively done was lower the centre of gravity of the vehicle.  This is the same reason that ground-up designed fire engine such as the Dennis Rapier sling their water tanks low between the axles.  Traditional truck conversion based fire engines become an absolute handful when they're water tanks are full, the Rapiers handling improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be various other reasons for the improvement too such as the height of the vehicle will have been reduced, the pre-load on the springs and dampers will have been increased and possibly if the gear was in the boot, the weight distribution of the vehicle will have been centralised as you've effectively counteracted the weight of the engine and gearbox up front.  However, the biggest single reason would be the lowering of the centre of gravity of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:36:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33347" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:40:51.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I scanned an Audi TT some years ago and one of the manufacturer specific codes to be returned informed me that there was an intermittent wiring fault on the passenger side wing mirror.  This was traced to a lose connector in the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite obvious that this wouldn't illuminate the CEL but was obviously logged in the ECU.  That said, I would expect the inverse (i.e. CEL illumination) to almost always write an event into the fault log on the ECU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:40:51.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34973" CreationDate="2016-07-26T09:00:43.290" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the example from Nissan Juke dashboard: There are 2 modes in the dashboard, the first mode is when the label shows &quot;A/C&quot; and in the other mode, it shows the  label &quot;Normal&quot;. I was wondering how the label changes on the same space and how it works. See below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrPKy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrPKy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhnmA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhnmA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20103" LastEditorUserId="20103" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T10:05:34.657" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T16:50:20.653" Title="How does dynamic control light works" Tags="|nissan|car|diy|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33412" CreationDate="2016-07-26T12:50:23.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that the most likely culprit would be in the ball joints. Tie rods don't require using a press and if the mechanic wasn't careful he could of crushed the ball joint into the bushing. I'd suggest bringing the car back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T12:50:23.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T13:19:12.777" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have connected a OBD2 adapter (Bluetooth ELM327) to my 2010 Mazda Axela (1990cc) and I've noticed that when my phone is connected to the adapter, the Mazda RVM alert lights on the side mirrors come on. (There was no other vehicles or obstacles around and the vehicle was stationary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the phone is disconnected or the adapter is disconnected from the car, they go off after a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal and expected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard certain chinese knockoffs of ELM327 adapters can cause electrical issues with vehicles. So  I want to know if it is safe to use the adapter with the car regularly for diagnostics and other things like dashboards on the phone .etc. using OBD2 data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:19:12.777" Title="Mazda 3/Axela RVM light when OBD2 adapter connected" Tags="|mazda|obd-ii|mazda-3|elm-327|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2016-07-26T14:01:21.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My money is on the power steering pump belt being loose.  In wet conditions this will squeal, it'll do it when the pump is placed under load (when turning the wheel) and do it worst when the steering rack is at the limit of it's travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't surprise me if the pump is located near the passenger side wheel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T14:01:21.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T15:07:57.703" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am facing loss of power with 1st &amp;amp; 2nd gear while accelerating after changing gears. As soon as RPM goes high the power becomes stable.&#xA;I want to know that which type of setting should be done for best pickup performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T15:07:57.703" Title="How to adjust power for 1st &amp; 2nd gear in classic 350?" Tags="|clutch|performance|gears|enfield-bullet|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T15:49:17.917" Score="9" ViewCount="6058" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1985 Yamaha 750 Maxim shift lever is extremely stiff or hard to shift.  When I pull off the casing that it passes thru or even loosen the bolts to the case it shifts normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can the issue be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it shift normally when I loosen the bolts on the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20109" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T18:37:28.227" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T16:27:15.570" Title="Why is my shifter lever extremely stiff or hard to shift gears?" Tags="|motorcycle|manual-transmission|shifting|yamaha|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33439" CreationDate="2016-07-26T16:02:36.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a couple culprits here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all the clutch might not be adjusted correctly so when you pull the clutch in, there is still a load/pressure on the gears so when you go to kick up or down you essentially forcing the gear to slip from one to another. To fix this, lube the clutch cable and the lever then play try different adjustments on the clutch to see if the issue still occurs when up/down shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a really worn out clutch, I had a KZ550 and it had the same issue I found out that my clutch was so old and worn out that instead of the clutch disks slipping they where sticking instead. The fix here is get a new set of clutch discs, might as well get a new clutch basket and springs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:02:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33349" CreationDate="2016-07-26T16:13:34.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same issue in a VW Golf(1995 model). The car would shake violently when stopped a redlight. Tore the whole car apart and found out that my engine AND transmission mounts where very loose, got new mounts and tightened everything. So check the mounts, mechanic said that on older vehicles those tend to be the culprits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:13:34.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33400" CreationDate="2016-07-26T16:19:38.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you checked if the shop accidentally crimped the brake lines that connect to the calipers themselves? This sounds like your calipers might be sticking and not releasing all the way out so the brake pads constantly rub the rotors causing both the brake pads and the rotors to wear out in a matter of a few weeks. This could be caused by old calipers sticking, something in the break lines, crimped brake line at the caliper connection, and a few other caliper related issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:19:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30283" CreationDate="2016-07-26T16:47:26.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would take a lot of effort to mount a RK motor on a Heritage softtail. The motor on the Heritage softtail is hard mounted to the frame and has a counterbalancer to stop the motor from shaking around in the frame, while the RK is missing the counterbalancer and is rubber mounted to the frame which lets the engine to freely &quot;wobble&quot; in the frame. So you would first have to address these issues then I know that the top mounts would mount up but the lower mounts have completely different spacing so those would have to be modified as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T16:47:26.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33447" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:11:16.643" Score="5" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1976 Triumph Bonneville and recently replaced the garbage LED chips inside the eBay signal lights with brighter &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XPG2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cree LED chips&lt;/a&gt;. I bench tested the circuit shown below with a 12v bench supply and everything worked perfectly. I also tested it with the motorcycle battery with the same success. However, once I began installing the system and testing it on the motorbike as I went along, I've been burning out LED's (they only glow dimly when fried). I want to know what I am doing to be frying these things left right and center!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will mention that the bike is positive ground. This means the LED lighting circuit cannot ground to the frame and must have it's own closed circuit directly to the battery. Occasionally when wiring I'll have the battery connected and one of these negative return wired will spark off the bike (potential culprit?). What do you guys think is killing the lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already come up with some potential solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding protection diodes in the reverse direction parallel to the led's (prevent reverse current)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make absolutely sure the wire attaching to the chips are insulated from the metal lamp housing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a tiny fuse to each leg of the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the wiring diagram:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9yVJo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9yVJo.png&quot; alt=&quot;signal lighting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank so much everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20144" OwnerDisplayName="Pipi Pipongo" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T18:03:54.977" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T00:41:40.933" Title="LED Blinkers - Burning out on 1976 Triumph Bonneville" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|troubleshooting|electronics|led|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33446" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:47:44.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you factor in the resistance supplied by the fuse? Fuses will add resistance (of some level or another) and smaller fuses (smaller conductors) will supply more resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as noted in the comments, check the voltages at various points (before and after each element). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, where is the fuse on your diagram?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATES&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Occasionally when wiring I'll have the battery connected and one of these negative return wired will spark off the bike (potential culprit?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. LEDs are generally very sensitive to voltage/amperage flux and shorting while doing wiring could definitely do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I will mention that the bike is positive ground. This means the LED lighting circuit cannot ground to the frame and must have it's own closed circuit directly to the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a slightly less important point, why can't you draw the positive (+) from the frame and the negative (-) from the power circuits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, as dlu mentioned, you will be pulling more than 12VDC if you tap the battery directly, or are otherwise not going through a voltage regulator (VR)... So if you are doing a straight battery pull, you need a VR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="17798" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T18:12:34.430" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T18:12:34.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33446" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:48:21.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things here that sound like possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the bike is running the voltage seen by the LEDs will be the output of the alternator or generator, which will be around 14.2 V, depending on the LED you're using that might be enough to cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sparks. They are not a good thing. They imply that there was a sudden rush of current. Off hand I wouldn't expect much current to be drawn by the LEDs in their correct configuration, so I'm not sure if you would see a spark in normal circumstances (if the circuit had enough resistance to limit the current to the LED's spec).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you are trying to do it to upgrade the LEDs in an already working circuit. In that case it would be good to look at what you had and what you're doing with an eye to what is different. It would be good to understand why any changes were made – or at the very least to know what the changes are and be able to ask about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about the positive ground. I can't see any theoretical problem with running a separate ground for the turn signals back to the battery, but it seems like it adds a complication and may lead to confusion down the road. Couldn't use modify the circuit to accommodate the positive return and do your switching on the negative side? It seems like that would avoid possible problems with the return path and the confusion of having two different wiring conventions on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXPG2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;data sheet&lt;/a&gt; for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XPG2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cree XPG2&lt;/a&gt; I see that reverse voltage spec is only 5 V. That makes me think that it would be pretty easy to fry one of these if you hook it up backwards even for a second. So be very careful of that, both as you work and in your circuit design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T18:32:54.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T18:32:54.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33419" CreationDate="2016-07-26T18:18:45.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the mechanic did something to your throttle body and it dies now not a long after start, it is obvious to me that it only needs an idle adjustment. I would say needs to clean it first, but if the mechanic done it already, just adjust it. I believe your truck has a throttle cable, and the throttle body looks like this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eb3Ui.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eb3Ui.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ugly yellow arrow points at screw that you need to screw in a bit, you will need a 7 or 8 mm spanner (I'm guessing, might be 10mm) and 3 or 4 mm allen key. Undo the nut, screw it in about 1/2 turn, start the car, if it dies, turn it another 1/2 turn. Let it warm up (3 minutes), and then screw slowly out. When it sounds lovely and not shaking or roaring :D tighten the nut and enjoy your first mechanical job ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T18:18:45.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T18:55:33.030" Score="3" ViewCount="3392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today the trip computer went over the service due milage. After a short period the red inspection light came on and what appears to be the red brake fluid light? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the closest picture I could find. Ignore the seatbelt sign but the other two stay on during traveling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fHWvD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fHWvD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of another car showing indicators&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as I got back I restarted the car and it was still on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the brake fluid and it was normal...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked each disk and pad to see if it was touching or there were leaks or scratches but nothing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way back the brake felt as normal, testing after I reached home it seems to work. But it does go a bit soft after a hard press unless I pump the pedal then it goes hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that BMW is trying to scare you with? I.e., change your fluid every 1/2 years or is it that the system has air in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way I need an answer as I'm not sure to drive it to work in its current condition. Would it be safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fault code is ccid 71.. suggest pads however visually they all look ok so I think it's a sensor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19322" LastEditorUserId="19322" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T21:08:49.670" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T21:45:54.017" Title="BMW 3 series 320D 2010 brake light and inspection light" Tags="|bmw|brake-fluid|warning-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33454" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:18:18.563" Score="6" ViewCount="16353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm changing the head gasket on a 99 ranger. I don't know why it overheated in the first place. There has to be a cause, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was cleaning up the top of the engine block to put the heads back on and noticed this hole in the water pump gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3faqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3faqw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the outside of the water pump has spots on it that you might expect to see it it had been exposed to water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace that gasket? The hole doesn't go all the way through the gasket. It's maybe 3-4mm deep. Could the water pump be bad and that is what caused the blown head gasket in the first place? A water pump is only $40 but I'd prefer not to do any more work than I have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It might be worth noting there are some rust flakes down in the flutes (? the holes on the top of the engine block that you can look down into and see coolant) so maybe it's a good idea to take off the pump anyhow to get some of that out of there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; - It looks like I got very lucky. I'm not a mechanic and don't really know what I'm doing. That little gap in the gasket got me to replace the water pump, even if my motivations were wrong. Well the old water pump was WRECKED! I doubt it was able to push much coolant and maybe it was what caused the engine to overheat in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsvI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LsvI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEXAj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEXAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5I8T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M5I8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19613" LastEditorUserId="19613" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T03:29:26.200" LastActivityDate="2022-06-25T00:28:15.903" Title="How can you tell if a water pump or water pump gasket is bad?" Tags="|water-pump|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33446" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:19:18.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The calculations I have done show that you will only be driving 0.5 amp through the LEDs when the supply is at 14 volts, so you should be ok, since they can take 1.5 amps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touching the negative wire against the chassis will be shorting the battery, and so bypassing the LEDs, so they shouldn't be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that you haven't got a sufficient heat sink.  These LEDs rely on the surface that they are soldered to to keep them cool.  Have they got sufficient cooling?  If not they will quickly get hot and become damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly on the bench running off a battery at 12volts, the lower current will stop them getting hot enough to damage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T19:29:14.877" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T19:29:14.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33450" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:26:45.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this service icon and its description at a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bmw-service.co.uk/service_icons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UK BMW site&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIcWY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIcWY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMW brake fluid service annunciator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it sounds like you might be right about BMW wanting to encourage you to get the fluid changed. It is not a bad idea, as brake fluid tends to pick up water over time which can both damage internal components and, under heavy braking, may lead to brake failure if the water boils causing you to loose hydraulic pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also not a &quot;must do today&quot; (or even this week) thing. In the real world there are lots of cars with &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; old brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T19:41:12.407" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T19:41:12.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33451" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:39:00.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are typically two ways to tell if a water pump is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The water pump won't turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The water pump is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of a water pump not turning, the belt driving it will usually be ruined so that's usually easily diagnosed. With the belt off of it, the water pump should be able to be turned by hand. If the water pump is leaking, that's also pretty evident once you've gone as far into the engine as you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To agree with dlu's comment, you'll never be closer to the water pump than you are now with the work you've already done. If you've successfully replaced the head gaskets then replacing the water pump should be no problem. If the pump doesn't leak and it still turns freely then you can just replace the gasket if you think the hole is something to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that close to the water pump, you may as well just replace it since they are not built to last the entire life of the car. Most timing belt replacement kits come with a water pump as well as they go hand in hand when replacing. (thanks, dlu)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T20:46:46.717" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T20:46:46.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33461" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:48:24.390" Score="9" ViewCount="7493" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &quot;normal&quot; applications (say attaching the oil pan or valve cover) are there standard or typical torque values for fasteners? I'm wondering if it is possible to use a rule of thumb for those fasteners when you don't have access to a service manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:43:17.223" Title="Are there &quot;standard&quot; torque values for fasteners?" Tags="|maintenance|torque|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-26T20:45:38.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you google it, there are charts and calculations out on t'interweb for torque, but for anything attached to a gasket, I'd make the extra effort to look it up (he says, after shearing a valve cover bolt on a Subaru engine last summer...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T20:45:38.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33382" CreationDate="2016-07-26T21:22:54.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another factor is a &quot;strength of materials&quot; issue, combined with the increase in &lt;em&gt;weight&lt;/em&gt; of a larger bore piston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reciprocating forces at TDC are tremendous, and they are the type of force (tension) that contributes to fatigue. Compression forces at BDC are far less an issue in terms of connecting rod/pin/piston stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is a huge factor, because if I recall, that vector is multiplied against the RPM vector that is &lt;em&gt;squared&lt;/em&gt;, when calculating tension forces in the piston pin area during TDC reciprocation.  In any case, piston weight is critical, but so is piston strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I swear I remember an oval-piston Honda bike engine that revved 20K+ RPM, and that was almost 3 decades ago.   But I don't recall the BxS being grossly oversquare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T21:32:22.453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T21:32:22.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-26T22:25:51.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr: No. There are too many variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things at play when tightening a fastener for an oil pan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much torque can the fastener actually handle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much squish can the gasket handle before it doesn't seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque values for bolts will differ, due to size and hardness. An ARP bolt of any size will handle way more tensile load than its generic counterpart, because the superior material does not stretch as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have to take into account what you're fastening, though. Some gaskets have metal washers built into them, where you can tighten things down within reason and you'll not destroy the gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, the easiest way to go about it is to watch the gasket squish and not worry about a torque wrench. Sounds kind ludacris, but it's the way I've been doing it all my life ... on older engines. Newer engines it's a different story, though. A lot of the aluminum panned engines (like the LS1), use the pan as engine support. Torquing them correctly is going to keep it from causing issues with warpage, engine structural integrity, and with leakage. Older engines you just look for the gasket squish and see that you don't tighten it anymore. Make sure the squish is about the same all the way around and you're golden. Sounds very backyard, and it probably is ... I never had an issue with it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T01:21:49.453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T01:21:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-26T22:39:09.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look up the head markings in something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lippincottsupply.com/bolt-nut_ident.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and then use a chart such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.americanboltcorp.com/tech/techtorque.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to determine a ballpark torque figure. It may not be perfect, but it ought to do in a pinch.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Edit:&lt;/b&gt; I thought it would be a good idea to separate out the SAE marking and include in this answer. The jpegs aren't perfect, but they'll do.&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6SOw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6SOw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt Grade Head Markings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbYnz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbYnz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10851" LastEditorUserId="10851" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T18:43:17.223" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:43:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-27T01:18:35.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The answer is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;.  Absolutely not.  Those charts are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; for automotive kinds of torque.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every &quot;chart&quot; or &quot;table&quot; about specific grades of fasteners are for achieving a condition called &lt;em&gt;critical torque&lt;/em&gt;.  This is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rarely the criterion for torquing automotive fasteners.  Exceptions are head bolts, and certain suspension components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific torque required for generic automotive applications will vary by the application, not the grade of fastener.  In the &quot;oil pan&quot; example, you are liable to strip the threads out of a cast iron block before you reach chart torque for a 6mm or 8mm grade 8.8 hex head cap screw.  (Besides totally squishing out the gasket to the point it no longer seals, as other posters have mentioned.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For suspension components, the risk of using chart torque values is less, &lt;em&gt;provided the female threads are of the same grade.&lt;/em&gt;  Since this usually is not the case, or cannnot be easily determined [e.g. welded nut in unibody for control arm bolt] the only &quot;&lt;em&gt;chart&lt;/em&gt;&quot; information you should refer to must come from service information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internet is a great place to find the kind of final torque information you need, when you don't have direct access to service manual data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T01:25:11.827" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T01:25:11.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T02:54:08.753" Score="3" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the voltage regulator on my Honda Wave 125cc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to replace it with a new one so that my head lights will be in good condition and work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20119" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T22:55:34.470" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T22:55:34.470" Title="Where is the voltage regulator on a Honda Wave 125cc?" Tags="|electrical|honda|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32671" CreationDate="2016-07-27T03:01:57.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for taking the time to help me on this issue... Old thread but it needs closure.&#xA;Turned out to be the head gasket.  After noticing little puffs of white smoke coming from exhaust, i decided to run a quick check for a head gasket failure.  I removed the cap to my radiator, removed all spark plugs, disconnected fuel relay, and filled my radiator with water to the brim.  I then installed a spark plug in cylinder 1, left the rest open (to diagnose exact cylinder, I guess I wanted an idea of where my gasket was blown) and turned the ignition over a few times.  If bubbles or any gushing came from radiator cap, I could probably assume a gasket failure.  Cylinders 1 &amp;amp; 2 passed but 3 &amp;amp; 4 made water gush out of the radiator.  So now I'm waiting on the new gasket and I'm gonna attempt to replace it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T03:01:57.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T04:45:24.217" Score="3" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked the fuse and wiring, they are okay, don't know what else it might be. BAFFLED. I think there is a motor and board, but don't know why it works sometimes and sometimes not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20121" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T05:09:45.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T05:09:45.243" Title="Windshield wipers on '98 Chevy S-10 work sometimes but not all the time" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|windshield-wipers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-03T16:29:28.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2016-07-27T07:33:33.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always crimp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the O2 sensor relies on a small amount of air (O2) passing down the wires in between the gaps in the individual copper strands to allow proper operation of the electrochemical cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you solder, flux may block off this path to the cell, and cause the O2 sensor to stop working. It will not be damaged, but will not operate correctly. Normal operation can be resumed by unblocking the gas path down the wire. (O2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All kits will be provided with crimps for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead thread, I know, but this is important for future searchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20124" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T07:33:33.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T10:58:48.073" Score="5" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota 4 Runner (old model) misfires and seems lazy especially while climbing hills. There is also a delay in changing from gears 2 - 3 and 4. Can someone please help to advise? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20126" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:49:28.890" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:49:28.890" Title="Toyota 4Runner - automatic (Old model ) misfires and delay in changing gears. What is the problem?" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|misfire|4runner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T11:00:24.260" Score="3" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2011 Ram 1500 5.7 L makes a loud squeaking noise after about 10-15 minutes of driving. The noise does not increase or decrease with engine RPM. The sound gets louder under the passenger side behind the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the dealer. They replaced idler pulley, but it never went away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this?  How do I diagnose this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20128" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T20:03:11.070" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T20:03:11.070" Title="Ram squeaks after driving for a while" Tags="|noise|squeaking|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T11:44:23.383" Score="-2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question for left/right turn. Please excuse me if it is already been asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are turning left into a 2-lane road from a 2-lane road, we should stick to the lane which we are in. Correct? i,e, if we started with left lane we should end up into left lane after the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But what if we start from a single lane which is ending into 2 lane road. Which lane to choose right or left lane after taking left turn? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if there are 2 lanes to start with and more than 2 lanes to turn left into. Lets say 3.&#xA;If we are at left most lane at first ...which one we should turn into out of the 3 lanes.&#xA;If we are at right most lane at first ...which one we should turn into out of the 3 lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if there are 2 lanes to start with but only 1 lane to turn into? Who gets the preference if there are simultaneously 2 car turning into this single lane road?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the answers change if I have to take right turn instead of left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. &#xA;Thanx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20129" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:26:43.390" Title="which lane to turn into?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-07-27T14:29:08.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T11:46:18.043" Score="3" ViewCount="17363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it's different in every make and model but for just a guideline how do a Ignition switch work? I know about the the ignition system but how do electricity follow from the switch down to the ignition coils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T13:34:39.237" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T18:47:23.287" Title="How does an ignition switch work?" Tags="|ignition-switch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33470" CreationDate="2016-07-27T12:07:23.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, your car has several circuits:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Always On&lt;/strong&gt; - Connected directly to the battery and is not affected by the ignition switch.  This includes: alarm, interior lights, brake lights, headlights, computer memory (radio, ecu, tcm, bcm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accessory&lt;/strong&gt; - Items that the driver needs, but are not necessary for the vehicle to run.  These include: radio, HVAC, windshield wipers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run&lt;/strong&gt; - These items are necessary for the engine to run.  Items include: ecu, fuel pump, coils(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start&lt;/strong&gt; - This circuit runs the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ignition switch controls which circuits get power from what position it is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Key position:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;ACC&lt;/strong&gt;: powers the accessory circuit&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;RUN&lt;/strong&gt;: powers the accessory and run circuits&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;START&lt;/strong&gt;: powers the run and start circuits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to also note that many igntions switches have and &lt;strong&gt;UNLOCK&lt;/strong&gt; position that allows you to turn the steering wheel (and possible shift out of park) while none of keyed circuits are active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:07:23.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T12:16:32.880" Score="7" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an '08 Honda Civic LX (110k miles). After a few days of flawless driving, I noticed a couple wires NOT connected that were coming from the hood opener-sensor thing. I plugged them together and noticed no difference in the car until I let the car sit for about 6 hours. That's when the trouble started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried starting the car. The engine had trouble cranking and then would stop. I pulled the key out and tried a couple more times. Finally, the engine started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, I had to do the same thing to get the car to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, 2 days later, the car won't even crank. No ticking, no cranking, nothing. When I turn the car to &quot;On&quot;, everything works (stereo, lights, headlights, dashboard lights- everything). You would notice no difference until you tried starting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery date is 10/14 so it's coming up on 2 years old. I haven't tried cleaning the battery connections yet. Just looking at them, I cannot notice any problems or visual corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that because I plugged those wires from the hood-sensor-thing together, it's a bad sensor which drew current from the battery while the car was off. If this was the case then jumping the car would probably fix it, but nope, not my lucky day. Jumping the car didn't help at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I start checking fuses and connections, I would like any insight people have on what the problem could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20130" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T01:59:53.100" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T02:59:40.740" Title="Can't Start '08 Civic (Diagnosis)" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|alternator|starter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33469" CreationDate="2016-07-27T12:26:43.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid the only answer I can offer on a Global forum is &quot;Whatever the local traffic regulations stipulate&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:26:43.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T12:57:44.813" Score="3" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oil light is always on in my 2006 VW Golf 1.4i. I have tried changing the oil pump, oil switch, and even putting more oil in, but the light remains on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20131" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T13:42:50.947" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T14:10:41.287" Title="Oil light is always on (2006 golf 1,4i)" Tags="|oil|vw|troubleshooting|golf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T13:03:09.710" Score="4" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Quad 4 was a 4-cylinder, 2.3 liter engine GM designed in the late 80's and produced 180-190 hp depending on the level of tune. Impressive numbers on paper when the 5.7 liter V8 engine in the Camaro was barely making 200 hp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the reliability problems (head gasket failures, etc) were pretty common for this motor and gave it a bad reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it a fundamentally flawed design? Or did GM corner-cut in places that they shouldn't have? Can these motors be made reliable with readily available aftermarket parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T13:29:27.470" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T03:28:51.833" Title="GM's &quot;Quad 4&quot; Engine" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|gm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33474" CreationDate="2016-07-27T13:26:29.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only a few possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pressure is actually low. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The light is overloaded with meanings and it is trying to tell you something else. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a faulty component. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a fault in the circuit. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is to make sure you understand what the light is trying to tell you. For example is the light solely a pressure monitor or could it also be a service reminder as well. The owners manual will tell you this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next see if you can find a schematic of the light circuit. It will be in the Bentley manual for the car if no place else. That will give you the definitive answer about what causes the light to come on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with that knowledge, verify that things are working as you think they should. For example, does the oil pressure switch actually seem to work (pull the connector off and hook a meter to it and see if it changes state when you start the engine).  You could also pull the pressure sensor and connect a gauge to see what the pressure actually is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have come this far the only remaining possibility is a short in the wiring.  Assuming the oil pressure was good. If the engine has enough time in it if is possible that the bearings are worn enough that the pressure is actually low. A really dirty oil filter might also cause low oil pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T13:26:29.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33468" CreationDate="2016-07-27T14:12:48.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the noise is independent of engine rpm or vehicle speed it is not directly connected to the engine, the transmission nor drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose some electrical/hydraulic driven pump/actuator, since that would be the only thing that maintains the same rpm/frequency independent of engine or vehicle speed.&#xA;Due to the lack of alternatives i think this could be either the fuel pump or the power steering control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you further describe the noise? When the noise appears, does it persist when you stop and restart the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T14:12:48.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33462" CreationDate="2016-07-27T14:54:02.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are a couple of places it could be on your scooter depending on the year. If you take off the body fairings/plastics, the voltage regulator also called the RR can be found amid a cluster of wires either on the side of the scooter, near the front forks or the &quot;tree&quot; or (as I worked on a couple) underneath the seat inside the body (there should be a panel you can pop off). The easiest way to find it is by location your wire harness and following it down through the bike, it should end in a couple of 6 pin or 5 pin connectors and one of them will be connected to the voltage regulator, it looks like a metal rectangle with little metal fins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T14:54:02.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33483" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:08:50.513" Score="0" ViewCount="5248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am referring to the 4-5 wires that connect to the plastic housing sitting behind the ignition switch. My guess is each of the wires is there to send current to its respectable position (accessories, distribution system and starting motor) based on the position of the cylinder and plunger inside the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this accurate? Also how does it reroute the current?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T17:39:22.163" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T14:49:43.240" Title="What are the Ignition Switch Wires for?" Tags="|ignition-switch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-11T17:09:27.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:19:35.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are standard torque charts out there. They are practical for steel to steel applications with static loads. In these charts the torque is defined so that the strain on the bolt is in the elastic deformation range. If there are gaskets, mixed materials with high differences in thermal expansion, high heat differences or dynamic loads involved you need a better calculation of the screw connection than just assuring to be in the elastic deformation range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case &quot;gasket&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When you are placing a gasket in between the two materials being fastened the theoretical torque value is useless because normally the gasket is compressible or deformable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case &quot;dynamic load&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The torque charts are not designed for withstanding high dynamic loads, there the screw setting needs advanced calculation/simulation. Example: Head bolts, connecting rod screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case &quot;high temperature differences&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Same as dynamic loads, especially if mixed materials (Example: magnesium material fastened with steel bolts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just some thumb rules:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If none of the above situations apply and there is a steel on steel application, dry bolts (no lubrication, no coating): Use some torque chart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a rubber gasket: Torque until you see the gasket deforming and the torque start becoming higher. Is the gasket is very soft and the screw is very stiff you can damage the gasket. If the gasket is too stiff and the screw to weak you damage the threads/screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every other situation: Sorry, no rule. Some people just try to &quot;feel&quot; it, with mixed results. Others just prefer to stay safe and use the manual. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to learn when there is enough torque:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For training i used different screws with different materials (old car parts) and torqued the screws until they break. Over time you should get a feeling on the behavior of the material. Also a great training on how to pull out broken bolts / repairing threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:19:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21362" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:33:35.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mixed diesel with air before it entered the cilinder and then compressed it in a normal ( Diesel engine ) compression stroke it would certainly detonate before you reached top dead centre. However in normal operation, diesel is sprayed into the cylinder and burns as it exits the injector and comes into contact with the heated air. Only the diesel entering the combustion chamber ignites. As there is no other fuel present there is nothing there to detonate. Spark ignition engines have all the fuel and air present in the combustion chamber ready and waiting for the spark to start ignition. Then a flame front moves outward from the spark plug. If the pressure is too high or the temperature too high or there is a hot spot in the cilinder the entire fuel air mixture can detonate at once.&#xA; As a side note:-  Diesel actually can be used in a spark ignition engine. We once had a tractor with a small petrol tank and large diesel or kerosene tank. You started on petrol, switched to diesel when the engine had warmed up, and switched back to petrol before shut down, to ensure there was petrol in the carburettor ready for the next start up. It was impossible to start cold on diesel, and did not run well on petrol when hot. I believe the compression ratio was higher than normal petrol but less than normal diesel, and the petrol would cause detonation when the temps got high before you switched to diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20135" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:33:35.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33479" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:06:27.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wires carry electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switches are mechanical contacts that disrupt / allow the flow of electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases where wires and switches are involved, the wires allow current to flow from one place to another, and switches allow that to be controlled (off / on). This is a general and fundamental idea. Check out this primer on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explainthatstuff.com/electricity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how electricity works&lt;/a&gt;, it will answer pretty much all of your electricity-related questions here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what the wires in your vehicle &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; connect to, for that you should consult the service manual / wiring diagrams for your specific vehicle. This information is generally available, although you may have to do some hunting for certain vehicles if you want it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different vehicles have different wiring, although there are some generally similar concepts, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ignition+switch+wiring+diagram&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;which you can find on Google&lt;/a&gt;, and some generally common high-level functionality (e.g. accessories, running, starting, etc. described in the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33470/how-does-an-ignition-switch-work?rq=1&quot;&gt;your other question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, here is the full ignition circuit wiring diagram for the &quot;start&quot; and &quot;run&quot; mode for my own vehicle (5th gen Honda Prelude):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7wX7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diagram: Ignition Switch&lt;/a&gt; (probably the most interesting to you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1lhEQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diagram: Run + Start&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qdi8g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diagram: Start&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lpyj1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diagram: ECU Wiring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqEiY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Referenced photo 62&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odObz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Referenced view 78&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, picking nits, when people say &quot;ignition wires&quot; they usually mean the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngk.com/Ignition-Wires-NGK-c905.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spark plug / ignition coil wire set&lt;/a&gt;. I'd just call what you are referring to the &quot;wires connected to the ignition switch&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T14:49:43.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:06:23.103" Score="7" ViewCount="7974" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strengths of the rotary/Wankel engine seem perfectly suited for the needs of a motorcycle (small, lightweight, smooth, high revving). The main disadvantage (lousy fuel economy) also tends to be less important on a motorcycle. I know there were a few produced back in the 70's, such as the Suzuki RE5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely there's good reason why they faded away. Why didn't they catch on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T19:46:35.883" Title="Why aren't rotary/Wankel engines used more in motorcycles?" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|suzuki|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33455" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:12:53.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a ballpark figure from the fastener sizes for &quot;most&quot; assemblies although there are plenty of exceptions and special cases. If you don't have the torque spec for a heat shield, for example, you can probably get away using the fastener size as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be careful about: any &quot;ballpark&quot; figure is going to assume a corrosion-free surface and usually dry threads. Working around cars a lot of bolts are rusted and/or become oil soaked and this significantly changes their clamp-up properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:12:53.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12703" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:21:36.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few items always need to be checked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both positive and negative wires connection to the battery, engine and starter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starter relay, normally under glove compartment&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Water thermostat sensor ground connection&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The starter's brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20140" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T18:59:04.177" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:59:04.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:33:31.010" Score="3" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2003 Opel Agila 1.2 is making a very loud ticking noise when I start it up, and it doesn't sound right. It only ticks when idling and when I rev it, the ticking noise goes away. The car runs completely fine, but the noise is really annoying and I'm worried that it is something bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an oil change in December, and I have no warning lights. Also sometimes when I start the car up and the car revs itself up to about 1.2k at idle to warm the O2 sensors, the car judders and shakes, and the ticking noise is really bad. However when I rev it all of this goes away again, but this only happens about once a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://clyp.it/3m0wm11q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I have a recording of the sound here.&lt;/a&gt; Sorry about the bumping around, I did it with my phone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recording is from inside the engine compartment, and you can hear the ticking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if this noise is bad? Can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MORE INFO: My engine is chain driven. There is no timing belt, there is a timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's recently started doing it. I've done about 6000 miles since the oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastEditorUserId="4906" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T22:33:29.347" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T22:33:29.347" Title="2003 Opel Agila is making a funny ticking noise on starting" Tags="|noise|idle|cold-start|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33494" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:46:43.007" Score="10" ViewCount="5338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just changed my oil in my 2500 HD Silverado for the first time by myself. I've changed my oil in a 2004 Toyota Camry a handful of times, but I always had a friend supervise me. I need to know common signs that I messed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it for a drive around the block, and noticed a slight amount of smoke coming off the side of a giant pipe (I think the exhaust manifold, but I'm unsure) It's directly under my oil pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did spill oil on it, but I'm worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil pressure also drift from 40 psi at idle to 60 psi with gas. I've heard that this is normal but i never noticed it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked my dip stick, but my driveway is on an incline. None of the oil looked burned, and it was a healthy brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that I am both a total noob, and paranoid; but I would like to defer to you guys for diagnostic tips to make sure I did everything right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20141" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T23:08:33.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T13:08:59.717" Title="How do I tell if I screwed up my oil change?" Tags="|oil|maintenance|oil-change|scheduled-maintenance|tips-and-tricks|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33488" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:52:21.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll be OK. Drive it around a bit more, and that oil, which sounds like it's on the exhaust pipe, will burn off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your oil pressure sounds in the normal range - it's usually lower at idle (even down to 20psi is OK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really paranoid, take it to a local jiffylube or similar, and slip them $10 for them to check your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:52:21.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:58:16.983" Score="4" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most of us I have dealt with steel rust on many occasions, but how should I deal with aluminium corrosion bubbles under the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just bought my first aluminium car, which are becoming a lot more common now. &#xA;The bonnet has a few stone chips which have started to bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a steel car one would sand back, use a rust treatment (krust for example) and then fill / paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But How should I &quot;Kill&quot; the aluminium oxidation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:21:00.883" Title="How do I treat aluminium oxidation on body panels?" Tags="|paint|body-work|aluminum|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33484" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:01:00.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a definitive answer, but I would guess it was strongly influenced by the requirement to have engineers who could successfully design a motorcycle engine using a Wankel rotor. It's completely different from an Otto-cycle piston engine (as I'm sure you know), so you need to have engineers who know (or can learn) the various stresses and fluid flows and other design centers that engine development requires. Plus, unless the company is going to invest in this engine design in a big way, you're going to wind up with a lot of unique engine parts that can't be shared across other models, so their development cost can't be amortized over larger production runs. So you wind up paying for specialized engineers to produce smaller runs of specialized parts, with no clear indication that you'll get any competitive economic advantage from it. A new manufacturer that planned to commit to a rotary-engined bike might make a go of it, but I don't think there's any compelling reason for a mainstream manufacturer to make the heavy investment in R&amp;amp;D required to bring what would basically be a novelty bike to market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:01:00.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33490" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:21:00.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same as steel panels, only if you use wire disc on angle grinder, use a softer brush. Everything else the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:21:00.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33484" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:25:05.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this question needs to be limited to motorcycles; in fact, when you consider the plight of the Wankel with respect to cars, it answers the question for other applications as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the last great production rotary was in the Mazda RX-8, and stopped about 4 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apex sealing has always been troublesome, especially on cold starts.  Rotor lubrication was also always an issue, and the Suzuki RE-5 you mentioned had a system to pump oil into the trochoid chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat has been a real issue since day one in the late 50s.  The exhaust stays in the chamber for a long time, transferring the heat to the rotor and trochoid chambers.  Because of the shape and geometry inherent with a Wankel, it's difficult to get cooling passages where they need to be.  Cooling systems tend to be complex and problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ignition system is usually complex, consisting of a minimum of two spark plugs per rotor.  The compressed area is a long chord, and because of its shape does not promote a single-point ignition with a resultant efficient flame front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emissions from a rotary are not easily controlled to today's exacting standards.  This may not be so much of an issue for a motorcycle, but I believe it was a strong influence of the demise of the RX-8 in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is something @TMN referred to: return on investment, and just a plain &quot;Why?&quot; Modern motorcycle engines are making in excess of 200hp/liter.  With &lt;em&gt;reciprocating&lt;/em&gt; 4-stroke pistons.  Why would anyone even consider a Wankel-engined motorcycle, when 500cc and 750cc monster beasts, (quite tractable, meeting all emissions, excellent fuel economy, gobs of torque) ... are available at every Honda, Yamaha, and Kawasaki dealer around??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seemingly made conceptual sense and promised 12A or 13B utopia in the seventies didn't come to fruition, whether for cars or motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:25:05.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33488" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:31:29.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you just dripped some oil on your exhaust when drained it, don't worry, and your &quot;paranoid&quot; stuff is good - it means you care. Good job Snake! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:31:29.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33504" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:39:39.810" Score="8" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be removing a Motorcraft 2150 carburetor in a 2.8L V6 and swapping it for a Ford CFI (and ECU) from a 3.8L V6. I've just recently pulled everything (ECU, throttle body, sensors, harnesses, etc) from a Mercury Cougar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was removing the CFI from the Cougar, I've noticed that the EEC-IV harness has two inputs for the heated O2 sensors (one in each manifold), but the 2.8L only has one O2 sensor (around the driver's side manifold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to connect both O2 sensor inputs to a single O2 sensor? Or do I need to take off the other manifold and tap a hole into it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I can connect both inputs to a single sensor, would it make any difference in the performance of it? Could the EEC-IV &amp;amp; CFI even make adjustments for each &quot;side&quot; of the engine? It does have separate injectors, but it seems like the air-fuel mixture would get combined in the intake after the CFI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T02:50:12.210" Title="Changing from two heated O2 sensors to a single O2 sensor" Tags="|o2-sensor|electronic-control-module|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T21:26:34.117" Score="4" ViewCount="3017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do tire pressure sensors operate on a specific RF frequency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got my car back from the place that fixes it, and noticed that the one tire keeps reporting that it is low; how low? 0 psi.  Now, every time I start my car, the tire pressure light comes on and I get a nice message about &quot;low tire pressure&quot;; but it just isn't true...my tire is fully inflated.   Now the embedded systems programmers who programmed my car and the tire sensors to talk with one another could easily have coded something like, if front left tire sensor not found, display &quot;err&quot; or -1, but I'm sure this wasn't in the budget of my crappy 2010 Chevy Malabu...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anyway...they have to communicate somehow, so what frequency do they use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T01:46:18.397" Title="Tire Pressure Sensor Sensor RF Frequency?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33488" CreationDate="2016-07-27T23:06:47.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, to answer the more general question – how to verify that everything is OK with the oil change (TL;DR - If you were reasonably careful and aren't standing in a puddle of new oil, you probably didn't, but still its nice to know how to check your work, so keep reading, its not really &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; long…):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double check everything before you start the engine – oil reads full on the dip stick (or maybe just a hair low since it takes a bit of time to drain down), oil cap on, no leaks from the drain plug, all of your tools and other stuff out of the engine compartment. You don't want oil splashing or stuff flying around…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe up any spills you see. If you've dripped oil onto the exhaust manifold (which is usually rusty and a bit rough) it may be hard to get it all off, as a result you may see/smell some burning oil as the engine comes up to temperature. This is to be expected if you spilled some oil in the manifold, but otherwise it is worth investigating – especially if it persists for more than a brief moment (unless you &lt;strong&gt;know&lt;/strong&gt; that you spilled a lot of oil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start the engine and watch the oil pressure (some fluctuation with engine speed and a small decline as the engine heats up is probably normal) or the warning light. It should go out promptly. Get out and check for leaks, especially around the oil filter, double check the drain plug. The drain plug should be &lt;strong&gt;completely&lt;/strong&gt; dry and free of oil. If there is any weeping, you might try tightening it a bit (check the torque specs, even if you don't have a torque wrench you can imagine picking up a sack of flour or something to help you estimate), but &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; just tighten it more and more, you don't want to strip the threads or crack the pan. Just remember that you're loosing some oil and next time replace the gasket and/or the drain plug.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shut the engine down and check the dip stick. You'll probably be down a bit since the oil filter will be full of oil now. Add enough oil to bring it right to the top (makes it easy to judge how fast you're consuming oil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that you've reset the service reminder if you have one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get yourself a treat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you fill up, check the oil (not a bad thing to do &lt;strong&gt;every&lt;/strong&gt; time you fill up) to confirm that you're still near the top and look again for leaks. If you park in some regular places keeping an eye out for fresh drips is a good idea too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you start working on your car(s) you'll get more &quot;tuned in&quot; to them. That's a good thing, you'll start noticing things you didn't before – some will be completely normal things you've never noticed (fluctuating oil pressure) but some may be signs of developing problems (oil on the spot you know you wiped clean, the oil pressure light starting to flicker). When you spot stuff that puzzles you, ask about it – it will make the site better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T02:48:00.397" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T02:48:00.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33496" CreationDate="2016-07-27T23:44:22.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of them have to communicate :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) in common use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Indirect TPMS – these systems &lt;em&gt;infer&lt;/em&gt; tire pressure from the ABS wheel speed sensors, so they don't use RF to communicate. Indirect systems don't know the actual tire pressure, instead they know about the relative pressures that they infer from the ABS data.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Direct TMPS – these systems use a sensor on/in the wheel to measure the actual pressure (and sometimes temperature). These need to communicate. A quick Google search found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carid.com/2010-chevy-malibu-tpms-sensors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a site selling replacement sensors for your car&lt;/a&gt; and it looks like they run at 315MHz.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pretty good article on tire pressure monitoring systems on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire-pressure_monitoring_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/tire-pressure-monitoring-system-how-tpms-works&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridgestone&lt;/a&gt; also has an article on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T23:44:22.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T00:05:09.490" Score="2" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short - after diagnosing my 96 corolla with a blown head gasket (thanks to the members this community), it now needs to be moved to a final resting place where I will hack away at its insides in an attempt to replace the failing part.  Somehow, my mother in-law lost the spare key that I gave her and I must've left my copy at the nearby park because I can't find it.  No problem, I know the wiring set up do I basically hotwired my car.  It starts up fine, but after turning my wheel to pull away from the curb i suddenly felt my wheel lock...I put in back in park, tried turning it but it's locked as if the car is off. I understand that the ignition is what controls the lock (turn the key, unlock the wheel) but I don't want to tear it apart, though I'm close to getting a ticket if this thing isn't moved soon... Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="15111" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T00:13:03.713" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T00:13:03.713" Title="96 corolla: is there a way to break steering wheel lock with only minimal damage?" Tags="|ignition|steering-wheel|steering-lock|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3002" CreationDate="2016-07-28T01:03:55.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends &lt;strong&gt;so&lt;/strong&gt; much on the design of the vehicle, for example the original SAAB 900 (don't know about the &quot;new 900&quot;) was built so that you just pulled off the cover over the clutch (which was in the front of the car, the engine was in backwards), removed another cover from the front of the transmission and popped out the clutch shaft, pulled a few bolts and dropped in the new clutch. It was a beautifully engineered set up. It's been a while, but I don't think the job took even two hours, start to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T16:41:17.970" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T16:41:17.970" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-07-28T01:03:55.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33496" CreationDate="2016-07-28T01:46:18.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect your specific issue is that the GM &quot;Body Control Module&quot; has lost (or never had) the unique RFID for the offending sensor.  Since they all work on 315MHz, each sensor must scream out its unique coded Radio Frequency ID so the BCM knows &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; tire is low, and not get confused when passing another Malibu (or Tahoe, or other GM vehicle that shares the same system) and report your &lt;em&gt;neighbor's&lt;/em&gt; tire pressures rather than your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'll bet the sensor is &lt;em&gt;communicating&lt;/em&gt; just fine, but the BCM refuses to listen.  Perhaps the difference is in the word &quot;communication&quot; -- while I have one definition, my girlfriend may have quite another...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I think yours requires some specialized tooling to trigger the &quot;learn&quot; process which binds the sensor RFIDs to your personal BCM.  Some vehices use a powerful donut shaped magnet placed around the valve stems to trigger this process (I own &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; tool), but if I recall that's for Chrysler and not for GM.  My expensive SnapOn scan tool can't even do it, along with other GM woes like radio replacement, keyless entry, HVAC controls, or instrument cluster repairs.  The imperial BCM is quite the dictator, and the complexity makes it very difficult/expensive to perform certain repairs by independent shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if this worked before you took your vehicle in to get &quot;fixed&quot;, I feel the repair shop owes you a BCM TPMS synchronization.  On the other hand, I've seen major tire shops that disclaim this in their receipt fine print, because again some of that tooling (handheld computer thingy) is eye-watering expensive. And the sensors themselves can easily get broken if you aren't careful breakihg the tire off the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T01:46:18.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33495" CreationDate="2016-07-28T02:06:06.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill and tap the other manifold, or have a good welder braze or weld an O2 bung somewhere accessible.  However, please see my comments above... maybe I can improve this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a cool project, and I don't want to discourage it, but there may be more than just mounting the throttle body and expecting correct Air/Fuel ratios without ECU  (EEC-IV) remapping.  Possibly you could fudge a little with coolant temp sensor resistors and possibly throttle position sensor... but I doubt a manifold pressure drop of say, 2psi on the 2.8 equates to the same CFM (and needed fuel injection) as the 3.8 mapping.  I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be wrong, if the intake manifold configuration is very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep in mind that a 25% reduction in displacement translates to a 25% reduction in airflow CFM for any given RPM.  The airflow is &lt;em&gt;calculated&lt;/em&gt; from the signal of pressure drop of the MAP (manifold pressure sensor) and is only valid for that particular manifold. The information is scaled in the EEC-IV along with RPM and throttle position, to determine the proper fuel injector (in your case central, single-point) pulse width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that was an answer to your original question... but I'd rather not send you down a path if there are other monsters to be slayed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T02:50:12.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T02:50:12.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33488" CreationDate="2016-07-28T03:05:26.793" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a &quot;tip to make sure I got everything right&quot; for the future.  One that I use myself, and taught my Auto Tech students as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very first thing is to take off the oil cap, and place it over the latch area for the hood, such that you can't close the hood unless you move the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents the worst possible thing: finishing the job but forgetting to put fresh oil in.  Sounds silly, but in a dynamic shop environment, the tech that starts the oil change might not be the one that finishes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to be careful of, is make sure the o-ring on the oil filter comes out &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the oil filter.  (And always lube this o-ring with engine oil before installing the new filter.)  If some other tech doesn't do this, the o-ring can &quot;weld&quot; to the vehicle.  If this isn't noticed, the double o-ring will blow out at the worst possible moment and lose all the engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on some vehicles, Subarus especially, make sure you recognise the difference between the engine oil filter and the transmission fluid filter -- as these look identical, the same size, and are actually &lt;em&gt;physically&lt;/em&gt; interchangable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few hints while I can remember them.  The nurse has to put me to bed now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T03:05:26.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17217" CreationDate="2016-07-28T03:14:52.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of debate about late ATF changes killing transmissions. To find the real answer you would need a statistically significant number of vehicles for each transmission, and a same-sized control group, driven identically for hundreds of thousands of miles... then one group serviced, the other not, then all driven identically for another hundred thousand miles... that's not going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I can offer you is some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For older transmissions with deferred (heh) or without any scheduled maintenance, I take the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handa-accessories.com/hondaatfflush.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda approach&lt;/a&gt;. Remove, measure and replace a small amount, about a quart/liter. Drive for several thousand miles and monitor performance and behavior. Then replace a larger amount, maybe 2 quarts/liters. Repeat driving and monitoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a filter exists, replace it only after several cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach I started on my then not-so-old vehicles is simply replace 2 to 3 quarts of ATF every oil change. Now, they are getting old, as in 150K miles each, and both have perfect transmissions. I just keep doing the same thing, also replacing transmission filters occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transmission wear can be tracked primary through vendor-specific electronics and ODB2 codes, but in OBD2 anything in the Transmission section with the terms Range/Performance can be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T19:05:41.010" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:05:41.010" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33475" CreationDate="2016-07-28T03:28:51.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see it as a &quot;fundementaly flawed&quot; design at all.  One of the first mass-production DOHC 4-bangers, and over about 6 years they only made about a &lt;em&gt;quad&lt;/em&gt;-drillion of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The early ones were buzzy and shook themselves apart, but later versions added balance shafts.  I'm not aware of head gasket failures or other problems beyond what you'd expect for any mass-produced engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The demise of the Quad-4, in my opinion, is only due to replacement with the Ecotech, and the newer GDI versions are incredible in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am NOT a GM engine fan, but the Iron Duke, the Quad-4, and the Ecotech all represent significant engineering triumphs in their era.  (Being a Subaru fan, I have to lean towards the EJ series flat fours with both OHC and DOHC varients, with equal or better volumetric efficiency as a Quad-4, and coming on the scene almost a decade earlier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The W41 is still sought after and commands high prices, and there's a subculture of hotrodders who feel the Quad-4 is a modern &quot;Offy&quot;, even if it's only the appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T03:28:51.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T05:33:38.993" Score="4" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walked by my parked 2009 Flex in driveway. The radio was playing!!  I unlocked it, lo and behold, all the dashboard lights are flickering on and off, I can  move the shifter, the bell is dinging like the key is in the ignition, and the throttle body is clicking away like crazy under the hood. I had to disconnect battery to get it to stop.  Went and bought a new battery the next day (a hail mary), did not alleviate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first shop couldn't get it to replicate so I picked it up, drove it to work, and it wouldnt start anymore, in addition to all the aforementioned problems.(Battery was not dead, good charge still)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second shop diagnosed a bad smart junction box ($600 repair), car starts up great, problemseems to be solved,   but next day I walk by my car in driveway, and.... radio is playing!!  Same exact problem still happening.  Super sad face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to what it could BE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16657" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-12-09T02:44:52.687" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T02:44:52.687" Title="Electrical issue Ford Flex" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|flex|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T07:34:45.433" Score="4" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn more about inline 3 engine balance and engine balance in general (motorcycles)... I3 interests me for a few reasons but i want to further understand how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L4 and crossplane I4 engines have evenly spaced 90 degree cranks i believe, so when one piston is stopped another is at max speed, meaning the crankshaft speed (and thus the engine) is smoother... That's what i understand anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'v heard that this same smoothness applies to 120 degree crank I3 engines but i'm a bit confused. I get that the cranks are evenly spaced like the examples above, but the piston movement (and thus speed) doesn't look so simple to me, even after watching it move online. &lt;strong&gt;Do the pistons speeds really cancel each other out perfectly like the 4 cylinder examples above (creating even crankshaft speed), or does it do worse compared to them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also i believe (could be wrong) these I3 engines can use a single balance shaft to deal with the rocking motion caused by the outer 2 cylinders... &lt;strong&gt;In this scenario (using the balance shaft), are there any other imbalances remaining?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find I3 and L4 engines to be really cool. They're even firing/high revving screamers (my favorite kind), narrow, have great inherent balance/power delivery etc. L4 seems great for litrebikes and would love to see some lightweight I3 screamers (maybe 300CCish) as well since i also find small sport bikes to be really cool. Sorry if i'm rambling a bit haha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20153" LastEditorUserId="20153" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T09:40:47.640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:44:07.677" Title="I3 engine balance/power delivery" Tags="|motorcycle|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T09:09:56.457" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;5td transit lwb. My first time away in it and driving around doors it seems to lack power. Drives ok but as soon as a hill or slope is reached slows markedly .seems to also struggle to pass 60mph is this normal or is there a filter or something that I need to do to release more power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20154" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T14:28:07.987" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T14:28:07.987" Title="Transit lacking power" Tags="|engine|ford|transit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37951" CreationDate="2016-07-28T09:40:20.947" Score="1" ViewCount="30403" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to play music from your smartphone in an &lt;code&gt;Audi A6&lt;/code&gt; from 2008?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for anything, such as devices or other gadgets, that may make this possible. I have looked all over the web for a solution to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20156" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T15:08:50.810" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T08:37:41.997" Title="2008 Audi A6 - How to play music via smartphone?" Tags="|audio|audi|bluetooth|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33517" CreationDate="2016-07-28T10:41:47.360" Score="1" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of using this configuration over an inline 6 or a V6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why Does VW use the VR6 configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would like info on the cylinder layout and it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T20:42:23.003" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T20:42:23.003" Title="What is a VR6 Engine" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:17:43.667" Score="6" ViewCount="33531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just this morning I noticed there is a water dripping into my shoes while driving. My aircon is open. The weather is sunny and warm. My car is Toyota Vios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9xHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9xHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10609" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T13:20:53.867" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:00:17.507" Title="Water dripping on driver's foot. How to fix it?" Tags="|toyota|ac|hvac|water-leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33515" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:23:23.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air con water outlet pipe might be clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get it cleaned by a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened to me some time ago, cleaned the outlet and now everything is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T11:23:23.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33514" CreationDate="2016-07-28T11:45:36.323" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VR6 is a 6 cylinder Volkswagen engine which uses a narrow angle Vee formation.  The Vee is at just 15 degrees which allows the engine to use a single cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has two camshafts which, in 12v format at least) operate the valves for each bank.  Unlike a traditional DOHC, the front cam on this engine operates the inlet and exhaust valves for the front bank of cylinders and the rear cam, the rear bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine uses a single inlet manifold and a single exhaust manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Golf and Corrado to which it was fitted, it's fitted in a transverse orientation driving the front (or all four in 4motion models) wheels with the gearbox on the side of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to an inline-6, the engine is more compact.  The fact the bores are effectively offset mean it fits into the engine bay of an old Golf transversely.  Something you certainly couldn't do with an inline-6 of the same capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to a traditional V6, the engine is far narrower and utilises less components.  A traditional V6 uses two cylinder heads, two exhaust manifold and sometimes two inlet manifolds.  Also, the width of a traditional V6 would make it complex to mount transversely in a small hatchback car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it's named the VR6 is that it's a V-Motor and a Reihenmotor motor (Reihenmotor being the German word for Inline-Motor) and it's a 6 cylinder.  They also produced a 2.3 litre VR5 engine which was essentially a VR6 with one  of the end cylinders omitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need any more information (I'm somewhat fanatical when it comes to details about early watercooled Volkswagens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T11:53:11.427" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T11:53:11.427" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33515" CreationDate="2016-07-28T13:12:02.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running the air conditioning the cooling can cause moisture in the air to condense. As mentioned in the other answer most of the condensation should be drained out under the car from the low point in the plenum. If you can find the drain - probably a hose - one thing to do would be to check that the hose is open. I would guess that the drain would come from a corner of the box that the drip is coming from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the air conditioning is chilling the ductwork or other parts above your feet. On a humid enough day you could see condensation and drips from that too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the drain is open and this is just humid weather condensation you could safely ignore it. I wouldn't expect more than a few drops. But if it is annoying insulating the offending spot should solve the problem. It looks like there is a fastener at the point where it is dripping. A bit of tape or sealant should do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:00:17.507" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:00:17.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2016-07-28T13:18:44.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend always to overhaul the engine when something like this takes place and not just add sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so will give you another 200k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of overhauling is not as difficult and you may think.  you will need a table grinder with a wire brush if you wan to just clean of any valves and not replace them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the engine if possible and take to car wash and spray clean.  If you have good cylinders just replace the rings and pistons. Replace the crank shaft bushings and all bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a overhaul kit at car parts dot com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:18:44.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33510" CreationDate="2016-07-28T13:22:37.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems that no matter how the crankshaft rotate, the combined center of gravity of all 3 pistons and con-rods will remain at the same location, hence no vibration generated. By mathematical analysis, you can also find there is no forces generated in vertical direction as well as transverse direction. (actually, I really performed such calculations) So why did we hear that 3-cylinder engine need balancer shaft ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In fact, the calculation is wrong because it assumes the engine is one point, thus the forces of all 3 cylinders act on this single point and result in complete cancellation. In reality, the forces act on 3 different locations on the crankshaft, thus instead of canceling one another, they make the crankshaft vibrating end to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here's a pretty clear animation (just imagine more red dots for a two-stroke): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2u-zXsioRM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2u-zXsioRM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do the pistons speeds really cancel each other out perfectly like the 4 cylinder examples above (creating even crankshaft speed), or does it do worse compared to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power strokes are evenly spaced. There is one every 240 degrees (four-stroke) or 120 degrees (two-stroke). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine's center of gravity stays the same so it's balanced in that sense. The crankshaft rocks because the forces aren't applied to it in symmetric locations along the shaft (See the red dots for the power strokes in that YouTube video, how they constantly travel from one end to the other? This is what makes the crankshaft rock.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piston movement isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; complex. Think of it like a &quot;wave&quot; moving down the crankshaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this scenario (using the balance shaft), are there any other imbalances remaining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The only movement that needs to be countered is the crankshaft movement because of where the pistons apply their force on the shaft. The center of gravity of the engine remains the same throughout the entire rotation though, there are no other imbalances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T13:44:07.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T13:44:07.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33524" CreationDate="2016-07-28T13:42:37.310" Score="5" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sprang a leak in my radiator about a month ago... and I simply did not have time to replace the radiator myself, so I took it to a mechanic. The mechanic replaced the radiator but he reused my old cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks later my water pump broke (basically the bearing broke and the pully was flopping around). Upon replacing the pump (what an ordeal) I saw/read in the instructions that I should also replace my radiator cap along with the new pump!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm wondering if re-using my radiator cap precipitated the failure of my water pump. Also, how common is this problem? Should I expect a mechanic to replace the cap with the new radiator (I know that should have checked it myself)? I didn't even think about it until I read the water pump instructions, at which point I looked and found my old radiator cap was still in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="20161" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T14:34:24.363" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T14:34:24.363" Title="2003 Kia Spectra - New radiator cap for a new radiator?" Tags="|cooling-system|radiator|kia|water-pump|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:06:41.393" Score="3" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the 12 volt battery, hatchback door still won't open, however I drove the car several miles, only it lost power, the red triangle light cut back on, along with HV battery fans. Display also showed that symbol on the energy light, which went from green to red, with the picture of a broken car, or so it appears to me. &#xA;Is it the 12 volt battery that is bad, although brand new from NAPA, or something more serious? &#xA;Thanks a bunch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20162" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T14:16:39.333" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:10:27.600" Title="2005 Prius-After replacing 12 volt battery, door won't open, but car runs" Tags="|battery|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33522" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:16:21.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is probably not the problem... it sounds like the 12V battery charging device (the actual name is DC Converter/Inverter-- it's what priuses are using instead of alternators) is the problem. You can have the guys at most auto parts stores check your alternator (for free), and I would expect the test to be the about the same for whatever you use to charge a 12v battery. You basically need about 14 volts for charging a 12 volt battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/weGcP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/weGcP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, most autopart stores also have diagnosatic code readers, so that might be helpful to diagnose the electrical problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the size of the battery is important. Look in the owners manual to see what exact RC rating that your 12v battery is... if your new battery is the wrong size that might explain the warning light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the door issue, I would look for problems with the door, not the battery. While I'm not very familiar with prius(es?), I've never heard of a car battery causing a problem with a car door opening... the battery in the key fob could cause a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="20161" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:10:27.600" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:10:27.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33521" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:27:04.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Reusing the radiator cap (almost certainly) didn't cause the water pump failure. The advice to replace the cap is probably based on the logic that the cap is a relatively inexpensive part and renewing it helps to ensure the integrity of the pressurized cooling system. An independent mechanic will often try to use her/his judgment to balance cost and likely benefit. If the cap tested good a reasonable mechanic might decide against replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the water pump was original you got a good run out of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T14:27:04.590" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T14:41:08.797" Score="6" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 92 chevy 350. Anywhere from a year to a month I have to replace the distributor. It starts cutting out around 2000 rpm but otherwise runs perfect. I have tried several other things to fix this issue and always end up replacing the distributor again runs great for a while then same issue. Has anyone had this problem. Maybe suggest a good brand of distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20163" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T21:50:05.520" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T21:50:05.520" Title="92 chevy truck distributor problems" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|distributor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2018-01-27T14:51:13.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33470" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:20:04.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/33471/9884&quot;&gt;rpmerf's answer&lt;/a&gt;, in cars equipped with an immobilizer they are an integral part of the ignition switch and electronics, so probably worth a mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few different types but the general idea is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A key with an RFID tag or something more advanced in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A ring around the ignition switch, or other sensor at the switch, that can read the code off the key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An immobilizer control unit in line with the starter motor wiring that does not allow the starter to receive power if the presence of the correct key is not detected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Software in the ECU that does not provide signals to the ignition system if the presence of the correct key is not detected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it more difficult to hot wire the vehicle. They're supplemental systems for the usual ignition wiring. They don't generally affect the ignition switch directly, but instead act as a second line of defense after the switch to prevent the car from running if the correct key is not physically present, and they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; part of the path &quot;from the switch down to the ignition coils&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These systems are mandatory in Germany, UK, and Finland since 1998, Australia since 2001, and Canada since 2007 (says &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immobiliser#Description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;). Even in countries where they are not mandatory they are still very typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also often other switches and such that can prevent the starter from starting the vehicle (by disrupting the electrical connection to it) such as the shifter switch on an automatic (making sure you e.g. can only start the car in park/neutral), the clutch pedal switch on a manual (making sure you can only start the car with the clutch open), etc. You'd have to check the wiring diagrams for your car. Here's the relevant portion, as an example, from a 5th gen Honda Prelude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1zME.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1zME.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There you can see that the immobilizer (along with the shifter / clutch switch) have the power to prevent the starter cut relay from closing, thus preventing power from going to the starter. The ECU (not shown here) also cuts power to the fuel injectors if the physical key is not present (so you can't e.g. hot wire then bump start it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:20:04.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33541" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:23:44.117" Score="9" ViewCount="30653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar problem to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17053/steering-wheel-center-different-from-vehicle-straight&quot;&gt;Steering wheel “center” different from vehicle “straight”&lt;/a&gt;, except:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In my case there's no obvious cause, it just happened one day, so the &quot;take it back to the shop&quot; answer isn't an option for me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm primarily interested in how to identify and diagnose what's going on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a little while, my steering wheel has been off by about 10 degrees. To drive straight, the steering wheel is positioned almost 10 degrees to the right; if I straighten the car, the wheels point so as to turn slightly left. It's perfectly steady in its (wrong) position and otherwise behaves as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure when or how this happened. There's no obvious event - a tire has been changed recently but I don't think the timing matches up. It seemingly just happened one day and has been like that ever since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about investigating this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the Haynes manual for my car (1997 Toyota RAV4, petrol, automatic, FWD, power steering), and it includes steps for re-assembling the steering wheel and steering column, which sound like tasks that would be challenging but do-able for me, but I don't know if that's relevant or what I might be looking for. There are also instructions for re-assembling the steering gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T17:15:47.297" Title="What can cause a steering wheel to end up misaligned, and how to investigate?" Tags="|troubleshooting|power-steering|steering|alignment|steering-wheel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33527" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:41:19.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tracking needs adjusting.  This requires some specialist tools but is quick and inexpensive to have carried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracking can be knocked out of alignment by hitting kerbs, pot holes or even bumping up and down the pavement.  It can also go out of alignment over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:41:19.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:52:59.003" Score="4" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car has a rattle coming from it, it's 2010 and has 114,000 miles on her, a guy said it's the timing chain, but a woman hit my car last year slightly and I've heard it since then, would it be advisable to change my timing chain? Roughly how much would this service cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20164" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:16:33.933" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:16:33.933" Title="BMW 316 - Do I need a new timing chain?" Tags="|bmw|noise|timing-chain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33529" CreationDate="2016-07-28T16:07:33.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what you've said, that is a hard question to answer – but my best guess is no. The coincidence of the collision and the rattle suggests that the noise has another source, it is unlikely that the collision would have caused a problem with the timing chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first step should be to do a bit of research. For peace of mind, I'd recommend that you check the recommended service intervals on your car and see if, and when BMW recommends replacing the timing chain. Chains can wear out, but they are more durable than timing belts for the most part. If you had a belt I'd be thinking that a replacement would be in order, but for a chain I'm not so sure. If you're not due for a chain and you've been reasonably good about keeping up with oil changes, I'd put that one out of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that start paying attention to the rattle, start by trying to identify where it is coming from and if there is a pattern to when you hear it. Also listen for changes, if it is an engine sound it will change in frequency with the engine speed, some sounds may also be present when you start the engine, but then go away after the engine has run for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further put your mind to ease about the timing chain, open the hood while the engine is running and listen to the noises. The timing chain will be at one end of your engine (probably the front it if is a conventional engine in a longitudinal installation (front to back), although I think at least some BMW engines have it at the back. If the noise is coming from the engine and seems to be related to the timing chain, then that would be worth exploring more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you think the noise is related to the collision (or since I think it may be), pay particular attention to the area where the car was hit. It could be something like a loose body panel. Regardless, just listen and try to see if you can find a pattern and an area of the car to point to. Then use that information to refine your question – or to explain to a mechanic how s/he can help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T18:35:11.043" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T18:35:11.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27580" CreationDate="2016-07-28T16:48:27.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per OP in comments (submitted to remove this question from the 'unanswered list' - please upvote Thor's comment, not this answer!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As it turns out it's sometimes good to recheck your mechanics assessment so I got under the truck and the catalytic pipe joiner had disengaged almost completely from the joiner plate for the pipe leading to exhaust. It would stay more or less closed together at speed but when I slowed it would separate more lol. I've drilled out the bolts, put in new gasket and bolts, and she purrs like a kitten again. That said, will need new catalytic and exhaust in near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T17:01:57.503" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T17:01:57.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33467" CreationDate="2016-07-28T17:41:21.053" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds crazy, but I think that you need to fix/replace the exhaust. Basically, in my humble guesstimation, you don't have enough compression in the exhaust system. Either you have a non-factory muffler or a hole in the pipe or your catalytic converter has been stolen, or something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toyota and Nissan (and probably a few others) behave like that when they don't have the right amount of banana in the tail-pipe (back pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, when I replaced the exhaust system of a '92 Toyota truck and '92 Nissan truck (in the years of our lord 1998 and 2002, respectively) with cheap muffler replacements, I initially experienced an increase in power... which eventually subsided after a couple months and became the problem that you described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after replacing the one-size-fits-nothing muffler with factory exhaust parts, both vehicles had an inital loss of power, which eventually subsided and became normal operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T17:41:21.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T20:10:49.247" Score="4" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I incorrectly jump-started a 2002 Mazda Bongo Friendee by interchanging the negative and positive terminals and I blew the main fuse, replaced it but now the alternator or the charging system is not charging the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have blown the computer box when I incorrectly jumpstarted it, or did I damage the alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive the car it doesn't accelerate and it overheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20171" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T21:00:45.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T21:00:45.990" Title="Mazda Bongo Friendee 2002 charging system or alternator not working after incorrectly jump-starting it" Tags="|battery|mazda|charging|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33539" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-28T20:18:28.793" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:18:28.793" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:18:28.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33540" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-28T20:18:28.793" Score="0" Body="Timing chains are used to maintain the relationship (timing) between the crank and cam shafts. Unlike timing belts they are internal (lubricated) components of the engine." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T21:12:51.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T21:12:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33527" CreationDate="2016-07-28T20:24:24.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have it aligned professionally, on a machine that addresses all four wheels and a particular value called the &quot;thrust angle&quot;.  This is not a DIY job.  While there is an old phrase &quot;Set the Toe and let it Go&quot;,  this is really poor advice and is actually a joke about shady mechanics doing poor alignment work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; attempt to adjust the steering wheel or steering column. While this seems a simple solution, it will cause the center of your steering rack to be offset.  Gear pitch in this rack actually changes, so that the steering ratio &quot;on center&quot; gives a tight road feel while driving straight.  Changing the relationship between the angle of the steering wheel and steering gear rack ruins this beneficial effect. (I suspect your steering wheel is &quot;master keyed&quot; or &quot;master splined&quot; to prevent such attempts at adjustment anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the right front tie rod effective length got shorter, perhaps a small bend or some other shock jarring components into a slightly different location.  (Tie rods rarely get longer unless adjusted so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good tire (sorry, &lt;em&gt;tyre&lt;/em&gt;) shop should be able to provide this service.  Although the cost may be a factor, there is a strong possibility this will be money well spent by extending your front tire life.  Since tie rods almost always get shorter, not longer, this means your vehicle is tracking straight, but probably has excessive &quot;toe in&quot; which rapidly wears front tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:24:24.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28342" CreationDate="2016-07-28T21:02:21.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have an intermitant failing sensor. On most of the systems I have worked with the crank sensor isn't required and wouldn't inhibit the engine from starting. The cam sensor or possibly the maf sensor could cause this behavior. Really what you need to do is pull the code. One thing to add, is that crank and cam position sensors are Hall effect sensors. There isn't much to fail.  Maf sensors are notorious for intermitant failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20174" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T21:02:21.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T21:32:07.097" Score="11" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Subaru Forester XS (manual transmission).  A few times a month, the engine will not start or idle without feathering the accelerator.  During normal driving, everything works fine until I press the clutch in or put the car in neutral.  It feels like there just isn't enough fuel being fed into the engine.  Most of the time, though, I have no issues.  This issue has appeared and disappeared for a couple of years now.  It happens in hot summer weather and in the dead of winter.  It happens when the car has been sitting for a day or two, and it happens while I'm out and about.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled out and cleaned the idle air control valve as well as the air intake system.  I have used a couple different kinds of fuel injector cleaner.  I checked for vacuum leaks.  The timing belt was changed recently, and they checked the fuel pump while they were in there and said it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  Maybe something I should double-check or test more thoroughly?  It is more of a minor inconvenience than a catastrophic issue, which is why after a couple of years, I still haven't fixed the issue.  Whenever it happens, I just give it some gas as I'm starting it and when the engine isn't in gear, and it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20175" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T09:00:36.923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T10:17:54.650" Title="Occasional trouble idling" Tags="|fuel-system|subaru|idle|forester|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33546" CreationDate="2016-07-28T21:56:47.360" Score="11" ViewCount="27693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't replaced my engine air filter ever since buying the car used 4.5 years ago and don't know when if ever the previous owner replaced it. A lot of casual car-owners I ask don't even know about the engine air filter replacement. Gas mileage and power seem likely to decrease with a clogged air filter, but why is not replacing also bad for the car (please be as specific as possible)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16481" LastEditorUserId="16481" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T21:06:39.420" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T21:37:46.190" Title="Why is not replacing the engine air filter bad for the car?" Tags="|air-filter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33545" CreationDate="2016-07-28T22:05:07.767" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two major problems incurred by not changing your air filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As your air filter becomes full of dirt, pollen, &lt;em&gt;crap&lt;/em&gt;, what have you, it becomes a restriction on the air inlet. This will &lt;strong&gt;degrade performance&lt;/strong&gt; on the vehicle (as you stated). This will cause you more wear and tear on the engine (having to push the engine harder for it to make up the difference). This isn't a thing you'd notice right away, but rather something which would take effect over a long period of time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the filter becomes saturated as stated above, it will only be able to hold so much. When it gets to a certain point, new dirt will start pushing old dirt through, which gets inside the engine. This &lt;strong&gt;creates more wear and tear&lt;/strong&gt; on the engine, which means its useful life is shortened. Also consider, if a filter becomes so saturated to the point the restriction is great, the filter can deform due to the pressure differential, which could allow completely unfiltered air to enter the engine. This would cause a lot of damage over time. If you don't change out your filter regularly, you'd never notice this and could be causing your engine an untold amount of damage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing out the air filter will save you time, money, and wear on vital engine components. If you treat your car nicely over the life of it, it will pay you back in dividends by lasting longer and saving you money. Same goes for any type of regular maintenance you should be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T14:28:53.407" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T14:28:53.407" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33544" CreationDate="2016-07-28T22:13:49.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Why would the car stumble occasionally?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what's been described, I'd say it's probably because the air-fuel mixture isn't right. It's either running too rich or too lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is running lean enough, you should be able to hear the engine ping/&quot;cough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Too rich, and the engine will feel like it's getting bogged down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depressing the clutch or shifting to neutral acts as a near-instantaneous load reduction on the engine, which changes the amount of air flowing into the cylinders. If the fuel management doesn't keep up, it is very easy for the air-fuel ratio to go beyond the engine's intended range of operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Possible culprits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;an under-reading MAF sensor&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;positive fuel trims would indicate that this is a plausible root cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're confident that there are no vacuum leaks, MAF's can give lower-than-expected measurements over time due to fouling of the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner may help restore the sensor's functionality. Bear in mind that a clogged air filter can also cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;insufficient fuel pressure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, a positive fuel trim would corroborate this possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've said that the fuel pump was deemed to be fine, but there are other players on the fuel side of the engine. MooseLucifer suggested a clogged fuel filter, and a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator can also do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to measure fuel rail pressure to narrow down possible reasons in this category.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;too much fuel pressure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This root cause would be evidenced by a negative fuel trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason for this would be a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lazy lambda feedback&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an O2 sensor is not able to keep up with what the actual AFR's are, the fuel management will not be able to keep up with changing loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is less likely given that you intermittently face issues even when starting the vehicle, when open-loop mode is active. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T10:17:54.650" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T10:17:54.650" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26677" CreationDate="2016-07-28T22:20:35.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/26677/2014-dodge-grand-caravan-will-not-shift-out-of-park#comment42294_26677&quot;&gt;OP's comment&lt;/a&gt;, the issue was a failed brake switch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As suggested I took it to the dealer. The break [sic] switch failed. Thanks for the suggestions and insights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T22:20:35.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T22:53:12.257" Score="17" ViewCount="3317" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Here's a situation I encounter quite often&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During diagnosis,  I want to determine if the mass air flow sensor(s) [MAF(s)] is/are healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hook up an OBDII reader to a vehicle that I'm trying to diagnose and get access to real-time mass air flow rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By knowing the engine displacement and RPM, I can estimate the volume of air that the engine should be pushing through. However, because of the concept of volumetric efficiency, the calculated and measured values will be quite different, related by the equation below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Measure air flow rate = VE x Engine Speed x Displacement ( x unit conversions ) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottom line, knowing volumetric efficiency at a known point of engine operation would enable one to look at the measured value and tell if the MAF is reading what it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb that would allow one to roughly estimate what the volumetric efficiency of an arbitrary fuel-injected gasoline engine is at a given point of operation? If it helps, I don't mind limiting the scope of the question to engines with single throttle bodies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, &quot;VE is 15% at idle RPMs&quot;, but it should be accurate enough to tell whether the MAF sensor readout indicates significant degradation of performance of the sensor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Announcement: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/q/1857/675&quot;&gt;The Great MAF Experiment&lt;/a&gt; is underway&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim is to attempt to objectively answer this question and your data can help the community potentially discover this rule of thumb. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:47:17.250" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T07:21:29.810" Title="Is there a rule of thumb for estimating volumetric efficiency?" Tags="|engine-theory|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T00:34:44.207" Score="2" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to find a cheaper way to get another key they are very pricey. Don't have away to get my car towed to dealership&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20178" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T00:43:08.300" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T00:43:08.300" Title="Lost key for Mercedes 2000 c240 need replacement" Tags="|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-07-29T16:00:58.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T02:55:16.590" Score="5" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;1999 dodge durango will turn over but not start after a friend put jumper cables on backwards.when i try to start vehicle security light blinks ,flashers and dashboard light blinks for approx a min but security light never goes off.none of the.gauges on dash board work.power lock switch on driver and passenger door only unlock/lock back gate.battery is good but after jumping it off when i remove cables battery drains down quickly seems like a short to the battery.interior lights,air conditioner both work radio comes on but no music plays&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20182" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T06:12:39.493" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T02:43:23.070" Title="1999 Dodge Durango won't start after backwards jump" Tags="|electrical|security|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33556" CreationDate="2016-07-29T03:25:29.633" Score="7" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2013 Toyota Corolla that only has about 22000 miles on it. Over the past few weeks, when I started the car, there was a little bit of sputtering i.e. the noise made when I turned the key into the ignition seemed kind of weak but the car started nonetheless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, the car wouldn't start and when I turned the key in the ignition, it made sort of a clicking noise. Jump starting the car didn't work (though there is a slight chance I did this incorrectly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible the battery is dead? I should state I live in Phoenix and we're in one of our hottest summers ever. However, as stated the car only has 22000 and the car model is only from 3 years ago so it seems a bit early for the battery to die. The positive terminal in my battery did have some corrosion on it, not sure if that's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try jumping again or should I go buy a new battery? Or is it possible it's something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20183" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T10:13:36.790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T10:13:36.790" Title="Possible dead battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33554" CreationDate="2016-07-29T05:53:56.673" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the worst things for batteries is extreme heat. It dramatically shortens battery life from average 5 years to about 3.5 years. This is due to the fluid in the electrolyte evaporating. Extreme heat also accelerates corrosion of connections. Extreme ambient (outside) temperature when coupled with heat in the engine generated under the hood only magnifies the effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result I would say that the battery is toast. A replacement is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T05:53:56.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33554" CreationDate="2016-07-29T06:10:04.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a dead battery, but the age and mileage both seem a bit low for that, battery life tends to be measured in charge/discharge cycles (I think in a car this roughly translates to starts) and it seems like you don't drive the car all that much, though if you did lots of short trips the battery probably wouldn't like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing a battery is a relatively straight forward thing. You can get a rough idea of condition by just turning on the lights and everything else (while the car isn't running) to create a pretty big load. A strong battery should be able to keep the headlights bright while doing this. If you have a volt meter, you could do a more quantitative test, or you could take it to a mechanic or a battery dealer (or autoparts store) and they can test with an Official Tester®. Don't just buy a battery blind, you may be just feeding an innocent battery to what ever problem is dragging down your current battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do the battery test after a bit of a drive you should get a pretty good idea of whether or not the battery is capable of taking a charge. If it seems to charge well and start well after just a short stop, I'd want to look for a load that is pulling the battery down before condemning the battery. We had a similar problem and I discovered that it was due to keeping an inverter plugged in to an always hot 12 V jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that you would be able to jump your car even with a completely dead battery. You might need to give it just a bit of charging time, but it should work – assuming your have good cables and they are well connected and the other battery is in good shape. So you might want to review jumping technique (and definitely clean up the corroded terminal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T06:10:04.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T07:29:03.580" Score="8" ViewCount="4413" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are my tires, Falken ZIEX ZE 914 (Size 175/50 R15 75H) mounted left and right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXgAem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YXgAem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owV5om.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owV5om.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are clearly asymmetric and have a distinct outside edge, but are not directional - there's no direction indicator and you can't buy right/left versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm wondering why the treads are not symmetric between the left and right tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually said that mounting a directional tire against its direction causes a loss of performance, which is small on dry roads, but increases on wet / very wet roads. I'd say it would be no good idea to mount directional tires correctly on one side and against their direction on the other (You'd need four wheels with same direction for this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is the effect so small that it doesn't matter for these tires since they don't have a V-shaped tread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T23:49:46.673" Title="Why are there non-directional, asymmetric tires with asymmetry between left and right?" Tags="|tires|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8834" CreationDate="2016-07-29T07:32:21.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the top of the battery clean?  Dirt and grease combined with moisture are conductive. That in itself could be a source of parasitic power leakage. As a result draining the battery as a result. I read further in your post that the battery is 5 years old...I agree with Paulster2 that the battery is probably toast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T07:32:21.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33511" CreationDate="2016-07-29T08:41:26.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1990's Diesel Transit is never going to be a rocket ship, especially when fully laden, as even the top end ones only had 113bhp from new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying that, there are a few things you can do on almost any vehicle to help - the first, and most important, is to give it a really good service - replace all the filters (oil, air and fuel). Clean or replace the injectors, and check all the fuel lines for any signs of perishing, blockages or restrictions. If it seems like it has been neglected, give the oil a good flush through, and replace it (and the filter) again after a couple of hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the turbo is in good condition too - any signs of black smoke coming out the exhaust should ring warning bells. Check the fuel pump too - I'm not sure which type the Transit has, so I can't say if it's user-mainainable or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T08:41:26.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33561" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many car problems only occur occasionally, and can often be very hard to pin down. This tag is for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33562" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" Score="0" Body="For diagnosing problems that only occur occasionally, or under certain circumstances." OwnerUserId="373" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T09:01:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2016-07-29T09:58:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a Land Rover, it has provision for a starting handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be surprised how late they retained this, even on Range Rovers (classic) you can see the hole in the centre of the front bumper for the starting handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, most cars (with manual transmission at least) you can bump-start, which can't be done so easily with static machinery or boats ;) and car batteries &amp;amp; jump-leads are cheap &amp;amp; portable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9394" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T09:58:21.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2016-07-29T11:08:38.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars employ a two-battery electrical system. This comprises of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a dedicated battery to supply the starting system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a general-purpose battery to power the rest of the vehicle's electrics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it might seem counter-intuitive to add complexity, there are some benefits to having a setup like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one relevant to this question is that when the starter battery begins to weaken the control unit for starting the vehicle can switch over to the other battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Bosch Automotive Handbook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is no charge in the general-purpose battery, the control unit is capable of provisionally connecting both vehicle electrical systems. This means that the vehicle electrical system can be sustained using the fully-charged starter battery. In another possible configuration, the control unit for the starting operation would connect only the start-related consumers to whichever batter was fully charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T11:08:38.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T11:09:34.727" Score="9" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a consumer, I have very little to go on if I want to buy a reliable new car - the reputation of the company, past reliability reports/opinion/reviews for older models, perhaps I could infer something from the warranty on offer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fleet buyers, for example, seem to have access to some sort of information that tells them they're going to get what they need. Otherwise it's hard to explain how, for example, a taxi company will buy a fleet of some new model which, it turns out 5 years down the line, end up with an excellent reputation for reliability. Likewise delivery vans, police vehicles, etc. etc. seem to have a way of picking vehicles which usually turn out to have been a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: Is there any source use mere consumers can access that gives us meaningful reliability data on a given vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I get some of the points you guys make, but it's not always loyalty/inertia/feedback/purpose building. Let me give you an example or two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skoda were a joke company for years, and it took a some years under VAG's ownership for them to get good. Yet, suddenly and with &lt;em&gt;no previous experience&lt;/em&gt; to go on, loads of Octavia TDi's turned up as taxis at about the same time the police motorway patrols started using Octavia VRS as their unmarked patrol vehicles of choice. They were replacing more established makes/models (Volvos, BMW's, Toyotas, Nissans) with far better reputations, yet the Octavia was basically new on the market. Logic says the conservative and risk-averse buyer would NOT take that risk, so I can only assume some serious promises were made &quot;in the trade&quot; as there's no way either of those groups would switch without good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, although vans are obviously built for work and low cost of ownership, you'll see some big company suddenly switch to a new make or model; BT (biggest telco in the UK) ran tens of thousands of Ford vans, which is borne out by the reputation of the Transit as the king of the hill. Then when Vauxhall/Renault/Nissan joined forces and entered the van market in direct competition with the Vivaro, BT switched and bought those by the thousands despite being a new and unproven model. Again, unless those Vivaros were silly cheap, you'd question the sanity of the fleet buyer taking a punt on an unproven new model versus sticking with the tried and tested most popular van in the UK without same very good reason to back it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point/question is, rather than &lt;em&gt;after-the-fact consumer surveys&lt;/em&gt;, manufacturers obviously must test their products during development and therefore probably have a pretty good idea of their reliability, and it seems like they must be sharing some version of this with potential fleet customers to encourage them to buy their product. That being the case, is there ANY way this sort of information would ever filter down to the regular consumer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other products in industry will have MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) figures which the manufacturer will guarantee, it feels like something similar may exist for vehicles but isn't made available to consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9394" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:46:35.353" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:46:35.353" Title="Motor Industry reliability data - is there a source?" Tags="|purchasing|reliability|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33545" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:20:11.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the air filter gets more clogged then the negative pressure in the air-intake will increase with the following consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirt will get forced trough the filter or small gaps and increases wear on the engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through some small leaks in the air line (between the maf and the engine) there will be more &quot;false air&quot;. &quot;False air&quot; is air entering the combustion chamber not metered by the maf-sensor. Thereby the combustion process will be disturbed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T20:45:02.690" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:45:02.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33565" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:30:11.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Consumer Reports&lt;/a&gt; collects and publishes survey data on reliability and/or repair frequency. As far as I know, the data is specific to the US, and I think it covers vehicles for which they get statistically significant responses. Both domestic and imported vehicles are include.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also do long term studies and &quot;niche&quot; reports, for example they currently (July 2016) have a report on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/sedans.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sedans&lt;/a&gt; which covers 119 models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been a while since I've bought a car, but you used to be able to get the data in their Buyer's Guide which most libraries carried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T15:05:23.370" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T15:05:23.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33565" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:01:04.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;i think it is a mix of better information, more planning, better maintenance and misinformation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The professional buyer, in contrast to the consumer, is not driven by emotions. So he can focus on the technical properties of the model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certain fleet vehicles like ambulances or police cruisers get converted from ordinary vehicles by a specialized company. Since the conversion company must engineer the conversions and get an safety authorization they try to limit themselves to only certain vehicle models. Larger conversion companies often have close relations to the manufacturers and get better informations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fleet operator is not interested in the good-looking next generation of the car. He is economical driven, he maintains his vehicles. The mechanics are better informed, they get informations from the other same-model vehicles they maintain. A large operator gets huge discounts on spare parts. It is not uncommon for delivery vans to get down-tuned, so that the engine is not as strong as possible, thereby decreasing the engine/transmission wear. Really unreliable models get sorted out soon. Often this causes the false impression that certain models are exceptionally reliable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit concerning your edit: If you are a VERY big potential customer then the higher-ups of the manufacturer are willing to talk to you. And you surely can haggle something out (like a guaranteed minimum MTBF on specific parts or some insider recommendations on what to better avoid and what not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting note: A friend of mine once had an work-related argument with an official car dealer. He managed to get the country-specific service manager from the manufacturer on the phone. The manager was willing to accept his call after he proved them that 1. he is the purchase manager and 2. his company bought over 400 top-of-the-line vans from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T17:41:59.130" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T17:41:59.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33565" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:11:07.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, hedging bets is what even the manufacturer must do. I suppose that past reports are the best indication... combined with knowing what changes were made in the new car (that's what to watch out for). Any significantly different parts from previous models (where the part(s) worked perfectly fine) would be suspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcomplaints.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carcomplaints.com&lt;/a&gt;, especially when shopping for a used car... it helps me to know some things to look for. They have nice little synopses of older model cars and a bar chart noting the number and kind of complaints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Nissan Pathfinder had problems in 2005 with coolant leaking into the transmission, which took about 5 years for them to correct. But the 2004 model looks ok. Obviously, with newer models, not enough time has elapsed for things to go wrong, so it's not a great indication for the past say, 5 years. But again, for example, 105 people complained about the transmission shaking in the 2013 model... I would be leary of no-change to the transmission after hearing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GO1Dm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GO1Dm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="20161" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T16:26:53.203" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T16:26:53.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:14:38.560" Score="4" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;2009 Honda Civic with 142,000 mi, recent oil change, new battery, won't turn over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Began when it wouldn't start one day; checked the battery windows and plates were bone-dry, so bought a new battery and installed it. Initially it worked, but was a bit rough - mechanic drove it around for a while and it smoothed out, so I took it home...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next day, won't start or even turn over. No dash lights, no automatic locks, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly unrelated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right after I installed the battery there were several whooshes from the right front end, and a heavy vapor that was shooting out from an unidentifiable place, slight electrical-burning smell...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Automatic locks occasionally won't work, usually in cold weather&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All windows except drivers no longer work (have NOT checked fuses)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20189" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T14:35:47.800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:57:48.413" Title="Honda Civic - new battery, won't turn over, shooting vapor" Tags="|honda|battery|starting|civic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33558" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:10:33.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These tires are very common for standard cars. If you are steady, not speeding, not challenging your car on a wet surface, and love comfort, these tires are designed for it. The main cuts are helping the car to go straight on non tarmac surface (gravel, sand, soil, zombie guts, etc), the small cuts - for improving a grip when accelerate or brake. Technically if you don't really have a gravel roads, why not use &quot;naked&quot; tires like slicks? More rubber - more grip! Because the cuts helps to get rid of everything that sticks to a tire, so the rubber touches the tarmac and have as less as possible of a dust, dirt, and blood between. And if it is narrow enough, it goes on a wet surface alright, but still not great. Why the small cuts are not just in square angle across the tire is to keep the tires quiet and to extend the lifetime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure, but I'd say V-shaped tires wears out a bit quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T15:16:27.320" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T15:16:27.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33553" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:23:22.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your battery sorted first, if the battery dead (which is very possibly melted), when the battery is full or replaced, if it doesn't work, get OBD2 scanner to it or ask for a help in garage. Your ECU might be burned... :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T15:23:22.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T15:47:52.690" Score="8" ViewCount="18703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a lot of electrical problems with my car, and a couple of times, the car battery voltage got drained absurdly low (like below 2V) for short periods of time. I gather that fast charging completely flat batteries is bad for them, and that slow charging is better (to remove the sulfation as I understand it), so when this has happened I've revived the battery slowly with a solar panel inputting about 1-2 amps (not jump starting) and it has seemed to work. While the panel is connected in good light, the voltage reading exceeds 11-12 volts, which I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; means there isn't a dead cell in the battery, and can charge like this back up to 12.6 volts (eventually!).  Sometimes while charging (while the car's not doing anything) the measured voltage swings by +/- 3 volts, not sure if that's significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of comments in passing many places saying that if a car battery voltage ever drops below about 10 volts it gets damaged, but little detail on how damaged how quickly and how to test how damaged one is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery is new (6 months or thereabouts). It's a sealed &quot;no maintainence&quot; 60 Ah 12v lead-acid battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It recently went flat unexpectedly, which might be because of underlying electrical issues and damp draining it, possibly also because I hadn't recharged it as completely as I'd thought. I'm wondering how to judge whether I should just write it off and replace it, then look to see if there are any corrosion, bad cables etc causing a drain, or try to coax it back to health one more time (this will be difficult, it's rainy season so charging with the solar panel is a struggle, I might need to jump-start), make sure it's &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; charged, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; go looking thoroughly for possible drains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the permanent damage that is caused by going completely flat, and how can I test the extent of such damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T10:43:34.593" LastActivityDate="2023-04-09T09:14:03.697" Title="How can I tell if a car battery that went completely flat is permanently damaged?" Tags="|battery|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33576" CreationDate="2016-07-29T16:25:31.850" Score="5" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a small slit/tear on my rear tire sidewalk near the rim.  I don't think it from hitting a curb.  Wanted to know if it's just cosmetic or info should have it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would like to add picture if possible.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3NJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V3NJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20191" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T17:20:39.733" Title="Small tire rubber split" Tags="|tires|repair|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33575" CreationDate="2016-07-29T17:20:39.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a defect to me. The outer rubber tread appears to be separating from the carcass. Yes, the outer rubber goes around the outside of the carcass to meet at or near the bead. This eill only get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how old the tire is, this could be warranted by the tire manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, &lt;strong&gt;yes, replace&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T17:20:39.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33565" CreationDate="2016-07-29T18:11:49.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reality, for modern cars, there won't be a lot to choose between similar models in terms of whole life reliability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rust used to be the big thing which limited the life of cars but modern corrosion protection generally has this well under control, unless a vehicle has had accident damage badly repaired at some point. Similarly modern design and manufacturing processes tend to mean that crucial parts like engines and transmission are pretty robust if properly maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the thing which puts an older car beyond economical repair is the labour required to fix an (often fairly minor) problem becomes more than the value of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of fleet buyers, they are often purchasing reliability as a distinct part of the deal, either by leasing vehicles where the leasing agent is responsible for keeping a certain number of running vehicles available for a period of time or they do it in house or by contract (especially in the case or more specialist users like the police). Clearly in this case there is likely to be more emphasis put on preventative maintenance and servicing and it is likely that small problems will be fixed early. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly when an individual purchaser is looking for reliability what you really want to know is that you won't have an unexpected, expensive problem this is much harder to predict for a one-off than if you are averaging your maintenance costs over a fleet of dozens or hundreds of vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that nowadays many cars are built on a common platform of a structural floor pan and suspension with a range of engines and transmissions. And in the case of the types of vehicles typically used by fleets these are often evolutions of tried and tested platforms so its fairly rare to get a completely 'new' model in this category. So often fleet users will go for a model an manufacturer which already has a proven track record for reliability and equally models aimed at the fleet market will have reliability as a top priority and a lot of mid range saloons/estates are designed specifically for this market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is even more the case for vans, indeed there are realistically few distinct van models in Europe and most models are joint ventures between two or three manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So manufacturers aiming models at the fleet market know that reliability is one of the primary selling points and will put a lot of effort into achieving this both at the design stage and fixing any manufacturing issues which crop up as quickly as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast there are other sections of the market where novelty, low cost, performance or marketing consideration may be higher priorities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastEditorUserId="14585" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T11:43:13.543" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T11:43:13.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33580" CreationDate="2016-07-29T18:38:36.630" Score="8" ViewCount="36527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the rear rotors, calipers and pads on my '05 Honda Odyssey and did a full brake flush on all 4 wheels' bleed ports when I was done.  After driving around for a day, I realized that the left side was leaking slightly.  Got the leak fixed, but it took changing out the crush washers around the banjo bolt at the caliper.  This means that the brake system was opened again, so I re-bled that line.  Do I need to re-bleed the whole system again, or will just that one opened line be sufficient?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T21:00:15.560" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T21:00:15.560" Title="Do I need to bleed all 4 brakes if I only opened one line?" Tags="|honda|brakes|odyssey|bleeding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33600" CreationDate="2016-07-29T19:08:09.733" Score="6" ViewCount="14441" Body="&lt;p&gt;My anti-lock brakes engage when I am moving no more than 2-3 miles per hour.  This only happens occasionally.  Everything looks goods regarding my brakes (pads, etc.).  They engage just fine in the snow and on wet surfaces, as expected.  But frequently, as I pull up to a stop light or stop sign, the ABS will kick on for just about 1 second right before I come to a complete stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what might cause this?  I took it to a couple shops, one wanted to replace a bunch of things for ~3k (not going to do that), and the other said they couldn't find anything wrong or even reproduce the issue.  My brake pads/rotors are all in great shape, having been replaced less than 20k miles ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 that is going to break 300k miles this afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19703" LastEditorUserId="19703" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T19:16:00.603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T08:23:30.653" Title="ABS kicks on when I am moving very slowly" Tags="|brakes|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33578" CreationDate="2016-07-29T19:22:02.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where was the opened line in relation to the bleeding sequence? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Honda Odyssey sequence is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it was the rear left you opened, just bleed that corner and you're good. If you opened the rear right, bleed that one and the rear left. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brakes still feel at all spongy after bleeding only one or two lines, bite the bullet and bleed them all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T19:22:02.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:04:46.170" Score="3" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my truck idles it's smooth but when I get on road and the engine gets up to operating temperature it spits and sputters. When I pull into the driveway, it cuts off.  I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, ignition module and ECU. I pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it. Still no change in running conditions.  Does anyone have any insight into this problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20193" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T22:07:32.867" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T22:07:32.867" Title="1995 Chevrolet Blazer - Spits and sputters over 45 mph" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|rough-idle|blazer|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33581" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:11:08.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried adding some heet? sometimes it fixes the most trivial things. maybe there is some water in your gas tank. our engine used to rev excessively. we added 2 bottles of heat and then it would go away. hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20031" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:11:08.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33571" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:14:20.400" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;check to make sure you do not have an illegal tracking device, if you are still making payments to dealership, they put these battery draining devices without the knowledge or consent of the vehicle owner. we had one that would drain 15% of our battery 24/7 whether we drove or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20031" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:14:20.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33581" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:17:41.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be one of important sensors. it might be RPM sensor, Cam position sensor, Throttle position sensor, Air/fuel sensor... You need to plug your truck to a right laptop which can show all the sensors how they work. Most likely it is something that causes ignition timing fault (not fuel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:17:41.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33591" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:34:08.840" Score="6" ViewCount="8199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was changing the Exhaust Manifold on an '09 Chevy Malibu. When tightening the bolt with the new one on, I twisted the whole bolt and stud off. So I have a couple issues. The broken stud is now left on the back of my engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to fix this? &#xA;Options considered:&#xA;Remove the broken stud. If so how? Weld a nut, drill it out, etc. &#xA;Leave it? There are 9 other bolts. Is that good enough to form a seal with 1 missing? Currently, it still leaks exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33587/broken-exhaust-manifold-stud-replacement-part-specs-or-part-number&quot;&gt;Question2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:42:16.437" Title="Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud - How to remove?" Tags="|malibu|stuck-bolt|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34839" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:36:41.000" Score="9" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put a rebuilt 2 stroke and brand new Mikuni SBN carburetor in my jet boat. Got her running no problem the first couple times, now it seems I can't get any gas into the carburetor from the primer bulb. The primer gets very firm and I am completely unable to pump it. If I remove the gas line from the carburetor inlet the gas flows beautifully, so no problems with the lines ( which are also brand new ) or the primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I spray some starting fluid into the carburetor, she will start AND run perfectly fine with the gas line after, the only problem is the initial startup. ( I know starting fluid is not good for 2 stroke so I really want to get the carburetor issue corrected )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This carburetor only has 5-10 hours on it and I really hope I don't need to rebuild the damn thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read thru the carburetor manual ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; ) and found the section on adjustments, but I'm not sure which ( if any ) will correct the problem I am experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All boat detail can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/29411/starting-a-2-stroke-jet-boat-after-several-years&quot;&gt;1992 Boston Whaler Rage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the boat out yesterday and heard a large pop once I opened the throttle for the first time ( sounded normal while idling directly after the start ). I believe maybe one of the carburetor pins was stuck as a result of me trying to squeeze the primer bulb really really hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T20:19:43.443" Title="Carb. Rebuild or Adjustment?" Tags="|carburetor|two-stroke|boat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35058" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:37:27.577" Score="6" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was changing the Exhaust Manifold on an '09 Chevy Malibu. When tightening the bolt with the new one on, I twisted the whole bolt and stud off. So I have a couple issues. The broken stud is now left on the back of my engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I can remove the broken stud, I can't find online the specs or part number for a replacement. Does anyone know the specs/part # or where I can look it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33585/broken-exhaust-manifold-stud-how-to-remove&quot;&gt;Question2&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Called the dealer. OEM part number:11589054. Full specs: m8x1.25x20, m8x1.25x16, gm 6175m, 10.9, gm 7111m hdr. So now I can search for OEM parts. Dorman 03411 look close? Any idea if these would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T19:17:06.453" Title="Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud - Replacement part specs or part number" Tags="|chevrolet|malibu|stuck-bolt|exhaust-manifold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33578" CreationDate="2016-07-29T20:59:33.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When was the last time the brake fluid was changed? If it's been over two year, just do the work and bleed the system. Brake fluid absorbs water over time, which makes it boil at a lesser temperature. The longer it's in your braking system, the more it absorbs. If it is anything other than clear, such as a dark amber or even a dark green, just do the work and flush the system. The more water which gets into the brake fluid, the more deterioration will occur in the brake system. Most brake lines are made of steel, which will oxidize and deteriorate due to the water in the brake fluid. Save yourself a lot of money down the road by performing this needed preventive maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:59:33.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33590" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:01:21.417" Score="5" ViewCount="29079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was changing a bad spark plug on my F150 4.6L V8 and despite cleaning the spark plug well as thoroughly as I could muster (rearmost cylinder and under the dash pretty well so very little clearance) I can't guarantee a bit of the residual dirt from the well didn't make it into the cylinder. For a bit more context, getting the new plug lined up took a couple attempts and each time the anti-seize had to be cleaned off and re-applied due to sediment sticking to it, not a whole lot but more than I really wanted to risk with the soft aluminium heads on these engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the risks of starting the engine at this point if some sediment did make its way into the cylinder. Will it just get blown out pretty well right off or will I be risking damage to the sleeve or valves (or anything else further down the line). Would I be further ahead to remove the spark plug and try to sneak a line down into the cylinder and try to blow anything out (keeping in mind that may introduce new contaminants)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20194" LastEditorUserId="20194" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T00:28:27.807" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T22:24:59.533" Title="Side effects of small amount dirt from spark plug well" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|f-150|cylinder|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33589" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:16:58.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr; I'm sure minimal damage (if any) would occur from this, but there really is no telling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small amount of dirt would usually not cause an issue. It also depends on the size of the dirt. Most &quot;stuff&quot; which would be sitting where you're talking about is probably fairly small. The biggest worry is if it gets stuck at the side of the piston and is forced up and down the side of the cylinder wall. This will cause a wear track in the cylinder and will just continue to damage it until it is dislodged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely what will happen is, on first start up the debris will be blown right out of the exhaust port. Mind you, it can get caught up in the catalytic converter downstream, but it really shouldn't cause much of an issue there, either. This is mainly due again to the size of the debris. While the honeycomb of the cat is fairly tight, there is some room for passage of very fine debris. More than likely it will just clog a single passage (or maybe two, depending on the size of the debris), but really shouldn't affect efficiency of it much at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your better bet the next time you go to change out spark plugs is to use compressed air and a shop vac &lt;em&gt;before you remove the plug&lt;/em&gt;. Use the compressed air to dislodge any foreign matter, and the shop vac with a tight nosed attachment to suck it up as it flies out. This way you won't have to deal with it another time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T21:16:58.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33585" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:21:00.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely try to extract it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the manifold with a blowtorch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jolt the bolt with a pin punch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the bolt with bp-blaster or another penetrating oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bolt is protruding: Place two nuts on it, counter them against each other and try to screw the bolt out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bolt is protruding but not enough for the two nuts: Grind a small groove in the bolt, use a punch to hammer tangentially into the groove thereby causing the bolt to rotate counterclockwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill the bolt out. If you damage the threads: Drill the hole larger and use a &quot;time-sert&quot; or &quot;ensat&quot; thread insert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This solution also exists, but it is dangerous: Drill a hole into the bolt. Then hammer a torx bit into it and try to remove the bolt. Attention: If the bit breaks your bolt is filled with a hardened steel inlay, not allowing a second chance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best method: Buy a screw extractor set, including a left cutting drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Installing the manifold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent other seized bolts: Be sure to use some anti-seize (cooper or ceramic paste) on the bolts. Attention: The recommended torque is for a dry bolt unless the instructions tell you to lubricate the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T14:42:16.437" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:42:16.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:29:05.827" Score="1" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car is overheating. I have new water pump, thermostat, radiator, radiator cap and timing belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bleeder valve is opened nothing comes out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20195" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T05:14:10.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T05:14:10.697" Title="Why no fluid from bleeder valve" Tags="|honda|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33592" CreationDate="2016-07-29T21:46:40.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bleeder valve or orifice in housing is clogged&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coolant is real low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T21:46:40.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33587" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:06:00.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to, or call, a dealer they should be able to tell you (or sell you) what you need. If you luck is good you may be able to find the information by looking at a parts diagram if you can find one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T22:06:00.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33597" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:17:42.270" Score="3" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need 16 for both heads but I only bought 8. It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/HS9902PT4/02290.oap?year=1999&amp;amp;make=Ford&amp;amp;model=Ranger&amp;amp;vi=1354777&amp;amp;ck=Search_02290_1354777_-1&amp;amp;pt=02290&amp;amp;ppt=C0026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fel-Pro fiber gasket that gets installed dry&lt;/a&gt; but there was a little adhesive, from the factory, on there. I guess my worry is that the adhesive activates under pressure and the weight of the untightened heads will spoil it? I'd really rather not go back out to the parts store tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I may have to take one off or at least lift it up a little to squirt some silicone into a gasket that &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3faqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;looked like&lt;/a&gt; it had a piece missing out of it. Is there any danger there where I might have to unmate the head and gasket for a few minutes after the untightened head has been sitting on the gasket overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, just one last final check... you &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; install a Fel-Pro head gasket completely dry, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T22:53:55.347" Title="Can you leave heads sitting on a gasket overnight before tightening down?" Tags="|head-gasket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33604" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:21:37.650" Score="8" ViewCount="14298" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Opel/Holden Astra H (150KKm, front wheel drive, m32 6-speed manual transmission) I hear a slight grinding noise from the right-front, starting at about 40 km/h. The noise is synchronous to the vehicle speed, independent of engine rpm. It remains the same if I press the clutch, change the gear or switch to neutral. It also does not change if I make turns. The best description of the noise would be the sound of a steel brush pressed against a turning shaft. What i am not sure: There is a possibility that the sound would be more silent while accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the possibilities would be:&#xA;The differential in the gearbox, the intermediate shaft bearing, the CV joints of the axle, the wheel bearing or a slightly seized brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to exclude the wheel bearing: Because the noise remains the same when making turns and the wheel bearing has no feel-able play when I jacked up the car and shacked the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When turning the wheel by hand I cannot identify any irregular sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any ideas on how to analyze the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the following updates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pads and rotors are new.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is nothing that rubs on the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The boots are intact and not leaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transmission fluid is new. The transmission has a bad reputation for failing early (wrong bearing preload in the factory).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sound does not go away when tipping the brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sound is very faint on the first km's and gets louder after about 10 km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I observed that the brake makes a slight periodic grinding sound when turning the wheel, always on the same position (perhaps a slight side run-out) but i doubt that this would be the issue. I will compare it against the other rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the next day I will remove the axle from the wheel bearing and check the wheel bearing, the intermediate shaft bearing and the cv joint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When changing the brake pads I lubricated the guide bolts. The next day I found out that the bolts should be mounted dry (ATE brake system). Perhaps the rubber bushings surrounding the bolts swell in combination with the grease. I will change the bushings this week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T10:01:29.123" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T21:47:57.910" Title="Grinding noise while driving" Tags="|troubleshooting|noise|drivetrain|grinding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33595" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:53:55.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't tighten any bolts on it, it will be fine. Even to pull the head off of the gasket should be fine. Realistically, while the head itself is or can be heavy, when you spread out the weight of the head over the surface of the deck, there is really only a small amount of weight per square inch which is supported. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some issues I'm feeling here though. If the head gasket you have doesn't have sealant on it, you putting sealant on it isn't going to work. The head gasket needs to be a certain thickness which is engineered into it. If you start slathering some kind of sealant onto it, you're more than likely going to have issues. Take the gasket set back to where you bought it and get a replacement set for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both head gaskets are &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same, I don't think I'd worry about it at all, but usually, you'll find that they put sealant around holes and it will complete a circuit, not just half of one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some spray on sealants which might be used to help seal the head gasket, but really they aren't needed for everyday non-performance applications. Fel-Pro makes a quality gasket, for whatever it's going onto. Get the head gasket on there and make sure you torque everything to spec. No second guessing what the manufacturer has stated or what have you. Make sure you're doing it right, or you'll find out you're going to not only be doing it again, but you'll probably have more issues you'll need to deal with (like a warped head). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T22:53:55.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33558" CreationDate="2016-07-29T22:54:24.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these tires. They asymetric between &quot;inside&quot; and &quot;outside&quot;, but when you change the tire from one side of the car to the other, remember you need to turn the wheel around 180 degrees so the wheel faces the correct way for the bolts. Not becasue of the tire, because of the metal wheel. The &quot;outside&quot; will still be &quot;outside&quot;. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T22:54:24.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5382" CreationDate="2016-07-29T23:02:40.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_(engine)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual crank starter&lt;/a&gt; of days gone by was dangerous for the operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the electric starter began to become widespread, better batteries became a necessity, and I read somewhere that battery manufacturers gave a deal to car makers under the condition that they removed the hand-crank. The idea was, from a marketing point of view, if you have a reliable electrical starter with a reliable battery, what do you need a hand crank for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, because of the logistics of it, a hand-crank can only be installed in front of the car with a longitudinally-mounted engine. Transverse-mounted engines have become very common by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T23:02:40.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33579" CreationDate="2016-07-30T00:01:23.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;General Motors is well known for ABS problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem comes from the speed sensors in the wheel bearings. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X62sn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X62sn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensor slips into the wheel bearing and reads a toothed wheel inside. These sensors are very senesitive to the distance between the end of the sensor and the toothed wheel. When the gap gets too big the sensor can't properly read the toothed wheel at low speeds. The gap gets too big when rust builds up between the sensor and the surface of the bearing. This layer of rust actually pulls the sensor out of the bearing slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to find out what wheel bearing is having a problem by monitoring the speed of all the sensors with a scan tool. The first sensor to drop out as you slow down is the problem child. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to remove the sensor, clean the surface and reinsert the sensor. It is difficult because if the bearing is rusty then the sensor is difficult to remove without breaking it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T08:23:30.653" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T08:23:30.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T01:22:51.500" Score="5" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between FMS and OBD. Whether OBD is a standard or protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I am working on a GPS device to tap the CAN bus in order to integrate with our fleet management system. In configuration I found two options: FMS and OBD, and couldn't find the difference between them. On Googling I came across J1939. Both FMS and OBD are compliant with J1939. What is J1939, as there is a separate connector available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both options are available, which one should I go for? On Googling I found FMS is used by many vehicles and that OBD is used only in the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide me with details on these? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20200" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T05:07:31.787" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T05:07:31.787" Title="Difference between FMS and OBD" Tags="|obd-ii|can-bus|obd|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33603" CreationDate="2016-07-30T03:26:47.403" Score="3" ViewCount="10173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was installing a battery and ended up doing this while putting the clamp over the battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgDVO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgDVO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, I overtightened and the screw went right through the hole (I think?). The thing I'm referring to is roughly in the center of the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy solution to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20183" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T04:34:16.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:47:29.353" Title="Ideas for removing a broken screw in battery hold down?" Tags="|maintenance|fastener|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33602" CreationDate="2016-07-30T04:32:32.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like what happened is that the screw head sheared off. Time for some investigation and ingenuity…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the head the screw is going to be a challenge to remove – unless the hole is relatively clean and/or you can get to the other end of the screw. If part of the screw is sticking out on the back side, it may not be too bad a problem. But one way or another you first want to find out if you can get something to hold onto the screw so that you can try to back it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, see if you can remove the part (the battery retainer?) that the screw was going through. Doing that may give you a bit more access to the screw from the top, and it looks like it might make it easier to reach around and try to get to the back of the screw. If you can do either, and can get your fingers or a tool on the screw, try backing it out. Getting it out even a little may make it possible to use a pair of pliers or vice grips to start turning it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a hold on it, you may be able to tease it out with a screwdriver (don't press too hard, friction on the threads is not your friend), or with a drill running in reverse – or if you can find one, a left-hand drill bit or small mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, then do a search here (and there and everywhere) for something like &quot;remove broken screw&quot; or &quot;extract broken bolt.&quot; Here are a couple of similar questions with answers that might help &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9357/is-there-a-way-to-remove-a-broken-screw&quot;&gt;Is there a way to remove a broken screw?&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/21484/best-way-to-remove-broken-bolt-from-intake-manifold-broke-nearly-flush&quot;&gt;Best way to remove broken bolt from intake manifold&lt;/a&gt;. Don't worry about where the bolt or screw is, the technique is basically the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T04:32:32.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33596" CreationDate="2016-07-30T04:52:50.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagnosis that you're done pretty much narrows it down to something between the output of the transmission and the wheels, including the brakes. You can eliminate the brakes, by lightly applying the brake while listening for the noise to go away (it is the brake) or not (something else) – while driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sensitive to the noises of your car it is likely that you'll catch something like a dry or failing bearing before it is so bad that you'd feel play or hear the louder noises that indicate a definite failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd suggest is that you lift and block up the car and pull the front wheel(s) and inspect carefully. Some things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear on the brake pads, you may be starting to hear the wear indicator doing its job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything in the vicinity of the wheel that could rub (or that could move close enough to rub at speed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the drive shafts for damaged boots and/or leaking grease.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Paulster2 suggested in the comment, listen carefully to the bearings. The sound will be very faint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is a moving noise and happens at a relatively high speed it will probably be a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; faint sound when the car is on blocks (and may not occur at all if it requires a loaded suspension). So use the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/5549358/use-a-screwdriver-as-a-stethoscope-to-locate-leaks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;screwdriver trick&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U927cYhQXB4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video if you prefer&lt;/a&gt;) or a stethoscope to help you isolate the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another think you could try is to have somebody drive the car by you as you listen on a quite stretch of road. It may be easier to hear and isolate from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T23:33:21.290" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T23:33:21.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T05:03:43.367" Score="4" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been running into some trouble while spray painting my car. The roof of my 2000 Chevy Cavalier Z24 had some rust on it, so I sanded it down, put on primer, and used black Rustoleum for the colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thoroughly sprayed the first coat, and sanded out the bumps with 600 grit sandpaper. I realized I made quite a few sandpaper cuts, so I sprayed another two coats and used 1000 grit paper wet-sand to smooth it out. After this coat, I noticed that the paint had gone a matt-grey colour (from gloss black). I figured I might have pressed too hard with the 1000 grit, and decided to do a final coat and wet-sand with 2000 grit. However, I still got the matt-grey discolouration. Mixed with the matt-grey, there are a few areas that have tiny gloss black spots and lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an electric palm sandpaper with 800, 1000, and 2000 grit. The climate is slightly humid, and 22-25 degrees celsius. If anyone can help me out with this, that'd be great!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20203" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T10:20:22.613" Title="Matting / Discolouration when spray painting car" Tags="|car|paint|rust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33607" CreationDate="2016-07-30T05:58:52.020" Score="3" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a faulty rear wiper relay on an impreza,  but I cannot identify it's part number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 12v, but what Amperage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a part number and details as follows &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12V5B-1T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;642N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NILES JAPAN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 5 pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4270" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T11:58:07.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T11:58:07.960" Title="Subaru Impreza rear wiper relay?" Tags="|electrical|subaru|part-identification|relay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33606" CreationDate="2016-07-30T06:28:43.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean you're unsure whether the part number is 12V5B-1T or 642N? Odds are good it is one of those. Try searching for each (e.g., feed &quot;12V5B-1T relay&quot; to the Google) and see what you get. It is very likely you'll get specs with a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, it is probably not a 5-pole (five switched circuits) but rather 5-pin or five connectors or some such. A relay will usually have 2 connections for the coil (to operate the relay), at least one common connection for the load, and then one connection for each pole. So a 5-pole relay would have at least seven connections, and more likely eight (or more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T06:28:43.927" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33622" CreationDate="2016-07-30T07:30:46.230" Score="6" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;After discovering that I could not make a working copy of my only key, I read up on Toyota's split-wafers - they wear out and cause problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I took out the ignition cylinder, dissassembled it and simply removed those wafers - problem solved; keys work in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put it back in and bam - no start or crank. The car dome light doesn't come on either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe my mistake lay in forgetting to disconnect the battery. I did afterwards, waited, reconnected and no luck. Is there a place I should start checking for blown fuses or is something to do with the ignition switch (which I cannot yet locate)? These are simple metal, not transponder keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20204" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T15:16:18.520" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T19:35:25.200" Title="No start/crank following ignition cylinder fix (93 Camry)" Tags="|toyota|ignition-switch|no-crank-no-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T08:00:25.687" Score="4" ViewCount="2541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Mini Cooper S and my coolant is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only way I know what it is is because you see a small liquid puddle under the car. There is no odor. When I took my car in for oil change I was told that there was a leak in the housing but the repair quotation said the thermostat needs replacing at $400. Could this actually be correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a thermostat different than a housing? My son usually helps me out in these incidences explaining what needs to be done &amp;amp; sometimes even does it, but he is in the military and is not around to be of assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some guidance? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20206" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T11:42:11.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T11:53:35.517" Title="Is a &quot;coolant housing Ieak&quot; coming from the housing or thermostat?" Tags="|thermostat|mini-cooper|coolant-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T08:51:25.913" Score="11" ViewCount="4638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get a used Toyota Prius Mk2 (XW20). I do not necessarily need to operate it in hybrid mode (gas + electric) and I am OK with operating it in a kind of &quot;gasoline only&quot; mode (because of a research project). My main concern is the traction battery wear - a used Prius is likely to have a worn out battery and I may not be wanting by replacing it with a new one. Can I operate the car with a worn-out main traction battery? Will the car's electronics switch to &quot;gasoline only&quot; operation mode or how will it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastEditorUserId="3991" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T20:14:45.363" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T14:41:10.730" Title="Toyota Prius Mk2 &quot;gasoline only&quot; operation mode" Tags="|toyota|battery|gasoline|hybrid|prius|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33589" CreationDate="2016-07-30T09:53:42.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be more concerned about debris damaging the internal plug threads on an aluminium head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium thread is surprisingly easy to damage. A little grit or sand trapped between the plug and threads will lead to a quick realization of why some heads are compared to cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T09:53:42.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5852" CreationDate="2016-07-30T10:07:02.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Haynes workshop manual does exist for &lt;a href=&quot;https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/car-manuals/car-repair-manuals/volkswagen/vw-polo-2009-2014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this vehicle&lt;/a&gt; now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LrSF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LrSF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:07:02.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7380" CreationDate="2016-07-30T10:38:04.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the link in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/7380/where-is-the-comfort-relay-in-a-bmw-1992-325i-auto#comment9183_7380&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;, the Comfort Relay can be found under left side of the the dashboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2009-10-03_212501_77995187.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listed as &quot;Relay Panel&quot; in the diagram below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2009-10-03_212525_42210548.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T10:38:04.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33574" CreationDate="2016-07-30T11:15:18.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that if you venture below 10 volts, the battery is &lt;em&gt;dead&lt;/em&gt;.  Vampire dead. Done.  Over.  Kaput.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were some magic solutions back in the day to try and &quot;restore&quot; such a battery, but again I refer to my bottom line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a new battery.  If you were ever down to 2 volts, the chemistry has shifted in such a way that there is no easy recovery.  Sulphation forms on the lead plates, and six distinct &quot;cells&quot; kind of blend into a soup, which prevents the ordered electron flow that creates voltage potential.  The acid loses it's acidity and approaches water.  You can see this by checking specific gravity of the liquid electrolyte (on a non-sealed battery) with one of those clear turkey baster things with the various colored balls or weighted dial.  While you can &quot;charge&quot; the battery to what seems a reasonable open circuit voltage, this charge is superficial and does not represent the SOC (State of Charge) that would exist on a non-damaged battery.  The reliability and capacity will be diminished, as well as its maximum amperage flow. It's like pouring gin over ice cubes, letting the ice melt, and attempting to separate the gin and water and restore the cubes by putting the glass in the freezer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the cost to &quot;recover&quot; would far exceed the cost of a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the bad news, but unfortunately I speak the truth.  I'm a cheap old coot and I've tried many things to voodoo lead-acid batteries back from this state, but I have to admit nothing works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a new battery.   Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T03:04:51.867" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T03:04:51.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33609" CreationDate="2016-07-30T11:53:35.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things here. First, the small puddle under your car is more than likely just water coming off of the A/C condenser. I speculate this is what it is due to there not being any smell to the liquid puddle. This is completely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip side though, when the mechanic said you &quot;need a new thermostat&quot; because the housing was leaking, he is more than likely correct (as long as there is actually a leak). Here is an image of what your thermostat housing looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tC72M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tC72M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the very top hole, you'll see the brass looking thing in there. That's the thermostat. It is completely contained inside the housing and comes as a unit. One cannot be changed without changing the other. If the housing is leaking, both would get changed. Due to the composite nature of the housing, it is not unheard of for it to start leaking. As for the $400 price tag, it seems reasonable considering the thermostat in and of itself is over $100. On the Cooper S, everything on the engine is harder to get to, so it does incur some work to get it done. The price would imply about 2 to 2.5 book hours of labor, which sounds about right (to my guestimation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I cannot tell you if yours is actually leaking, but I would bet odds on there is probably an issue there. You may want to take it somewhere else and get a 2nd opinion, but it does seem reasonable and feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T11:53:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33587" CreationDate="2016-07-30T12:07:14.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a quick and dirty repair you can just use a threaded rod with the same thread size/pitch and cut it to size. You could also use a matching bolt and cut the head off (use a high grade bolt). Attention: automotive engineers love to use some unusual thread size/pitch, perhaps you want to measure the thread with a matching gauge.&#xA;Do not forget the anti-seize when installing the new stud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T12:07:14.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11158" CreationDate="2016-07-30T13:24:46.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://students.sae.org/cds/supermileage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SAE Supermileage competition&lt;/a&gt; equips participating student teams with a single-cylinder, carbureted &amp;amp; air-cooled Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make aside, these characteristics would suit the endeavors listed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T13:24:46.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8768" CreationDate="2016-07-30T13:34:52.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggestions in the comments, the symptoms described can also be due to lack of electrical power. This includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;excessive voltage drop&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the charging system works but something like excessive wire resistance is consuming power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a malfunctioning alternator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which doesn't supply the required electrical power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T13:34:52.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33208" CreationDate="2016-07-30T14:01:16.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggestions in comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that disaster strikes and not a single usable connector remains in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still wire up or solder something as simple as this. You will need to figure out the polarity to understand which wire goes to which terminal and ensure that the two wires cannot cross one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T14:01:16.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33608" CreationDate="2016-07-30T15:28:14.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ignition switches consist of two components: a rotary switch, and a lock cylinder (the part you removed the wafers from) that serves as the &quot;knob&quot; that turns the switch – but only if you have the right key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking there seem to be three possibilities here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After removing the wafers the key is free to turn, but the motion is not transferred to the switch – there should be a part of the ignition lock, on the switch side, that transfers the motion of the key to the switch when you turn the key. It is possible that after removing the wafers the movement of the key no longer causes the switch to turn. To see this you'll need to pull the cylinder again and confirm that there is movement that could actuate the switch when you turn the key.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 suggested in the comment, the interface connecting the lock cylinder to the switch isn't engaged, and now even though the key's motion could be transferred the connection isn't there for some reason. With the cylinder out you should be able to see how they interface and you can test that the switch part is still working by turning it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you removed any of the wiring from the switch, then you'd want to check that it is  back in the right spots and that you didn't accidentally blow a fuse or in some other way disturb the wiring. If you left the switch part in place (assuming that is even possible on this car) then it seems pretty unlikely that the problem is electrical.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T15:28:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8637" CreationDate="2016-07-30T15:37:11.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in NYS you don't have to remove the sunroof drain tubes and they have nothing to do with an inspection. And there aren't any drain tubes in the doors themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC the sunroof drain tubes run through the A pillars and into the front fenders. So it would be almost impossible to do on accident and very unlikely to have been done intentionally. If I had to guess the passenger drain was clogged and when the body shop removed the a pillars to check the hoses that they inadvertently detached the hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T15:37:11.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21725" CreationDate="2016-07-30T15:56:22.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like the engine/ECU might have a &quot;limp mode&quot; that the ECU uses to keep the engine running, but with reduced power output, when it detects a lack of control over the engine's operating parameters – for example if the ECU detects and over boost condition from the turbocharger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mechanical problem, such as a clogged fuel filter, seems unlikely to respond immediately to a shutdown/restart cycle. That clue, to me at least, points very clearly to the ECU and to something that is transient or that requires an &quot;accumulation of evidence&quot; as the engine runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step in tracking this down is to get access to a service manual for the engine and to see if there is any kind of on-board diagnostics that might tell you something about why the engine is going into low-power mode (if that is indeed what is happening). Read up in the manual and on-line on how the engine is managed. My instinct says the issue could be related to the turbo charger and its management system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that would be worth doing is to see what you can learn about the car's history. For example was it ever run on bio diesel or cooking oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it sure wouldn't hurt to go through and replace consumables like filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T15:56:22.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T17:14:02.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does my odometer flicker all numbers and get dim when I sometimes hit the brakes. Nothing else in the dash is affected except the radio and it's only sometimes. Is there a short behind the radio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20212" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T02:41:03.137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:41:03.137" Title="Odometer and radio cut out sometimes when I hit the brakes" Tags="|electrical|chevrolet|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T17:15:45.693" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much work is involved to change out the master cylinder and power brake booster on a 1972 Mustang?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20213" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T19:34:14.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T11:53:28.703" Title="Work involved in changing master cylinder and brake booster on 1972 Mustang" Tags="|brakes|mustang|master-cylinder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33636" CreationDate="2016-07-30T17:58:04.020" Score="6" ViewCount="6267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Toyota Camry and I was involved in a minor bumper crash last week where the one of the tab that holds the bumper to the car broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to two body shops and body shop A told me they could fix it with &lt;strong&gt;plastic welding&lt;/strong&gt; and body shop B told me they need to remove and replace the entire bumper.  Body shop B also told me plastic welding is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: is plastic welding sufficient for my scenario to fix the bumper?  Is it a reliable fix?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20215" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T18:27:30.577" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T02:24:20.587" Title="Integrity of plastic welding for car rear bumper" Tags="|toyota|camry|plastic|welding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33625" CreationDate="2016-07-30T18:04:40.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check all the fuses; perhaps there is a bit of corrosion, etc.  How old is the Chevy?  On older cars corrosion on fuses with the old tubular style fuses was common. The brake lights draw a fair amount of current, and if the fuses are corroded, it could affect anything else on the circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image cropped from &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASelection_of_Fuses.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASelection_of_Fuses.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8DEx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8DEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16014" LastEditorUserId="16014" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T15:33:50.140" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:33:50.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33625" CreationDate="2016-07-30T18:20:16.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hitting the brakes turns on the brake lights, so there might be an issue with grounds or a loose wire that could be causing other circuits to appear to loose power.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hitting the brakes also invokes Newton's 1st law (roughly speaking, when you change the forces on things (apply the brakes), they can move) perhaps the radio (why are you suspicious of it?) or its wiring harness are moving and damage to the wires when the radio was installed are causing the flickering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither are simple problems to track down. But you may be able to at least get pointed in the right direction by noting when it happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is due to the brake lights going on it will happen even if the car is not moving and it won't matter how hard you push on the brake pedal. All that matters is that the brake switch get's activated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if the problem is due to something shifting when the brakes are applied the problem will likely not occur when the brakes are applied while stopped and will be more likely to occur if the brakes are applied hard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might find a safe place to do some experimentation. What you'd like to come up with is a way to reproduce the problem. If you get to the point where you can make it occur pretty reliably and you're still not sure of the cause another thing you could try would be to find and disconnect the brake light switch (it is usually somewhere near the brake pedal). If the problem is related to the brake lights going on disconnecting the switch should make it go away. Be sure to reconnect the switch before driving on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T18:20:16.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33634" CreationDate="2016-07-30T18:43:57.070" Score="13" ViewCount="3144" Body="&lt;p&gt;While reversing into my drive the accelerator pedal briefly got stuck - luckily in the &quot;up&quot; position, not the &quot;down&quot; position, but given the hump in my drive that needs a little gas to get over, it still led to causing an embarrassing traffic hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little careful wiggling got it loose and got me into the driveway - but obviously, I'm more than a little concerned about it happening again in a more dangerous position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, my Haynes manual has literally nothing about accelerator pedals (it has brake pedal maintenance, clutch pedal maintenance, and accelerator pedal position sensor maintenance, but nothing about the accelerator pedal itself). Searching online finds articles on what to do &lt;a href=&quot;https://learningcenter.statefarm.com/auto/safety/what-to-do-if-your-gas-pedal-sticks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;if I'm driving and the accelerator pedal gets stuck down&lt;/a&gt; (which will be helpful if I'm ever googling for answers while hurtling dangerously in an out of control vehicle...) but I can't find anything about diagnosing and fixing the underlying problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the solution will involve some oil or WD40 but I want to be thorough. What should I check and what should I look for? Is there any way to test the stickiness of an accelerator pedal beyond simply pushing it up and down with the car out of gear? How can I judge that an accelerator pedal is or isn't at risk of sticking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car is a Toyota RAV4 but it's too old (1997) to be affected by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009%E2%80%9311_Toyota_vehicle_recalls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the notorious Toyota sticking acceleration problem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanics in this country tend to be rather gung-ho about risks and often take an attitude of &quot;well it works now, it'll be fine&quot;, so while I do intend on having it looked at, I want to be able to understand what's going on and do what I can myself, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T02:21:37.310" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T02:21:37.310" Title="Accelerator pedal stuck briefly - how to make sure it doesn't happen again?" Tags="|toyota|acceleration|rav4|intermittent-problems|pedals|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32177" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:47:35.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could buy a similar length new valve stem (about $1), and swap out the cores to see if that helps the situation. If it doesn't, you'll have to get the valve stem replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality control on those mass-produced parts is sometimes spotty, and it sounds as if this one might be internally threaded too deeply. I doubt you can just unscrew the core a bit to bring it out further, as once it's unseated it will leak pretty badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T19:47:35.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33626" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:05:38.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1972 Flat Rate data is a bit difficult to come by, even from a fossil like myself that never throws anything away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a &lt;strong&gt;1982&lt;/strong&gt; Mustang 5.0 V8, book is around 2 hours labor.  The engine compartment is less crowded on a 1972, and might be a tad easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T20:05:38.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33630" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:16:04.620" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's 3 things you need to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the accelerator pedal itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the throttle cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the throttle body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pop the hood, find your throttle body: it is between the air intake tube and the metal top part of the engine and has a half-wheel sticking out the front with 1 (no cruise control) or 2 (cruise control) cables attached to it. When you turn it by hand, you introduce slack in the throttle cable, use this to disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle body (there's a little &quot;pill&quot; at the end of the cable that you can slide out of an opening, and then the entire cable is loose)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONL7p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONL7p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of your engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've disconnected the throttle cable, inspect for 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the wheel on the throttle body can move freely by hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the throttle cable isn't pinched anywhere and that it's in all the supports that it needs to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your accelerator pedal can move freely (there should be no resistance at all with the cable detached)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to reconnect your throttle cable when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T06:32:33.517" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T06:32:33.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33630" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:18:53.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a well-worded, interesting, and valuable question.  Unfortunately, not among the &quot;gung ho risk taking&quot; mechanics, I would not even guess at an answer without seeing the problem firsthand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my &lt;em&gt;meta&lt;/em&gt; answer would be to duplicate the problem in a static situation (not moving/driving) -- perhaps by wiggling and pulling on the pedal into a position where it gets re-stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have duplicated the problem, it should be fairly easy to determine where to file/lubricate/trim/bend/adjust to prevent future recurrence.  Keep in mind this may be somewhere in the linkage further along, not necessarily the pedal itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T20:18:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33627" CreationDate="2016-07-30T20:31:32.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic welding is great for a small crack or slit in the surface of the bumper.  However, it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; structurally sound enough to reattach a broken mounting tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried; it never works.  The one thing you might try, if you're short on cash (although that estimate you posted seemed reasonable) is to get a two-component polyurethane adhesive (actually ironically called &quot;Plastic Welder&quot;),  Mix this in a huge glop, and literally &lt;em&gt;glue&lt;/em&gt; the bumper back in place in the broken tab area.  You may have to devise some sort of clamping arrangement while the adhesive catalyzes, but this only take 5-10 minutes.  Don't skimp on the amount used... put it anywhere the bumper material contacts the mounting flange area.  Wipe off any excess &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this a marriage type commitment, not easily undone.  But it's $6 instead of $1000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T20:31:32.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33627" CreationDate="2016-07-30T21:21:33.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without an actual picture and the ambiguous verbage used, here's your options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;most often, minor crashes do not damage the bumper itself but the &quot;clips&quot; that hold it on. With the proper tools, you can remove your bumper cover, replace any damaged &quot;clips&quot; and then reinstall the bumper cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the cover itself is cracked, your quote listed the part as $370. You may find a cheaper alternative at aftermarket places, and even cheaper would be the junkyard. Aftermarket places usually have unpainted bumper covers, while the junkyard should have a bumper cover in good shape that is already your colour. If you need to paint, you are probably looking at $30-$50 in spray cans, then you install your new cover yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T02:24:20.587" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T02:24:20.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21725" CreationDate="2016-07-30T21:50:35.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drop the fuel tank and inspect the contents, looking for jellyfish, fluff, water, dirt, and the bones of lizards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paulster2's initial comment was spot on.  Although I doubt it is a single &quot;obstruction&quot;, on a vehicle of this age (especially diesel fuel that can be inconsistent),  you can collect quite the library of muckity stuff in the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; trip provides the right amount of sloshing and constant &quot;suck&quot; that draws the naughty bits up against the fuel pickup sock/screen, &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; choking fuel supply and creating the loss of power condition.  However, diesel fuel is slippery, and the bits fall off the screen as soon as the primary pump stops -- even at a short rest break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if all the fuel filters have been replaced  (same symptoms), my first line of attack would be to drop and thoroughly examine the tank contents and fuel pickup screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On edit:  After watching @Zaid video link, It occurred to me that you could drive the tank close to empty, and then use one of those inexpensive flexible inspection cameras to inspect the tank without removing it.  (Easy since a diesel has no filler neck restriction.)  I got mine at Home Depot, it's a &quot;Rigid &lt;em&gt;SeeSnake&lt;/em&gt;&quot; brand, but there are many other inexpensive Chinese units that are nearly identical (and it's a fun toy, errrrrr I mean a &lt;em&gt;valuable tool&lt;/em&gt; to have anyway):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ah6UL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ah6UL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T19:07:30.263" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T19:07:30.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33610" CreationDate="2016-07-30T22:14:40.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in theory possible, but I have no idea how to implement it in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Prius HSD &quot;Hybrid Synergy Drive&quot; has, at its transmission heart, a planetary gearset with &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; power inputs:  One from the internal combustion engine, and one from the AC motor/alternator.  Each acts on a different element of the planetary set (carrier, ring, I don't recall which is which) to create what Toyota calls e-CVT or electronic continuously variable transmission.  Any combination of electric motor or ICE power is possible, including regenerative breaking, using the traction motor as a starter, and ICE to traction motor/alternator recharging of the battery package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that a sophisticated &quot;ECU&quot; or maybe better described in the case of a hybrid as a Powertrain Control Module controls &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; last detail of this complex dynamic power flow.  The Prius, along with other Toyota HSD vehicles, is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; &quot;fly by wire&quot; with no physical driver input to any drivetrain system.  All functions are merely software requests to the drivetrain computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's possible that a Prius with a dead battery will default to an ICE-only mode.  But to force this condition would require very complex ECU programming.  And honestly, I don't think you can even start the vehicle if the battery is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, I'd think that a used Prius with a dead or &quot;worn out&quot; battery would be quite obvious and avoidable before purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T05:26:41.930" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T05:26:41.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T23:49:20.383" Score="3" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power steering fluid is being pushed out of the top of my reservoir of my 98 Honda accord and I don't know what is causing it. I'm going through a bottle a week can anyone help me with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20220" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T00:04:30.507" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T00:04:30.507" Title="power steering fluid is being pushed out of the top of my resevior" Tags="|honda|accord|power-steering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-10-03T17:11:46.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T01:21:33.583" Score="12" ViewCount="3191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/33630/9884&quot;&gt;recent question here&lt;/a&gt; as well as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nbcsandiego.com/the-scene/cars/Feds-Confirm-Stuck-Gas-Pedal-Caused-Lexus-crash-66214482.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that 2009 Toyota incident&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not particularly paranoid of this happening, as it's highly unlikely, but I do like to mentally run through sticky situations so I'm prepared if they do happen (this has helped me out in the past a few times, e.g. a popped brake line in tight high speed traffic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So consider a passenger car accelerating out of control. Let's assume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Worst case: For whatever reason, turning the ignition switch off has no effect.&lt;/em&gt; Also turning off ignition has risk of power steering and power brake loss, as well as risk of engaging steering lock, so it isn't plan A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything else in the vehicle is functioning correctly, in particular the transmission has no issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The engine can overpower the brakes (e.g. due to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33641/most-reliable-way-to-stop-an-automatic-with-a-stuck-throttle#comment55907_33644&quot;&gt;vacuum loss at WOT&lt;/a&gt; affecting brake assist / power brakes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; this is happening, it just is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The priority is to stop the vehicle without putting the driver, passengers, or other people in danger. Doing permanent damage to the vehicle is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a manual, which my car is, I figure if something ever causes uncontrolled acceleration plan A would be to pop the car into neutral and handle it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't have an automatic to play with, and I'm not really familiar with them. So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be able to throw an automatic into neutral at any speed?&lt;/strong&gt; Or can the shifter get stuck (sort of like in a manual how it's hard to pop it out of gear with the clutch closed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What about in a fully drive-by-wire vehicle?&lt;/strong&gt; Is there some regulation that says switching to neutral must still be a direct mechanical/hydraulic action, or otherwise states that a request to shift to neutral &lt;em&gt;must not fail&lt;/em&gt;, or is it possible that a reasonable ECU may e.g. refuse to go into neutral because of some condition that may result from a stuck throttle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a subquestion: Would there be a better way? I'm just stuck on the neutral thought train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a question about why this would happen or how unlikely it is to happen (very unlikely), it's a question about being prepared for a really weird situation and having a strategy to handle it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be able to answer this on my own if I had another car to play with, but unfortunately, I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T01:49:43.897" Title="Most reliable way to stop an automatic with a stuck throttle" Tags="|driving|stopping|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2016-07-31T02:20:41.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the shifter, there is the button you push in to put it in gear.  Around that button is an outer ring. You can pull that partially out or all the way out.  That could fix the issue with key getting stuck.   That outer ring has extended tabs which are used to activate the sensor which tells the ignition the car is in park.  Therefore it is safe to pull the key out of the switch.   If that doesn't work, I found disconnecting the battery did.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20222" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T02:20:41.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33641" CreationDate="2016-07-31T02:35:00.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest option for the vehicle is to turn the ignition switch to off, protect the engine, then turn the key back to &quot;on&quot; without turning the engine back on, to prevent steering lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you ruled that out, shifting to neutral would prevent the uncontrolled acceleration, and you would hope the rev limiter will prevent engine damage. This works for an automatic, you don't even need the &quot;button&quot; at the top of the shifter, you can always slide the shifter from drive to neutral (I do this all the time when approaching a stop or traffic light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go nuts and if your fuse box is accessible from the cabin while the vehicle is in motion (this rules out those vehicles where the driver or passenger door needs to be open to access the fuse box), learn how to pull your fuel pump fuse by touch. This only works for those vehicles where said fuse is in the cabin fuse box and not under the hood. Pulling the fuse for the fuel pump will cause fuel starvation and the engine will safely shutoff in a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T16:51:45.317" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T16:51:45.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33641" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:07:40.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that you'd want to impose the largest load that you can on the engine, probably in the highest gear you can get into, pull over and then shut the engine down. In real life, in traffic, I'd be leery of trying to shut the ignition off, for fear of engaging the steering lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the brakes hard (maybe add parking brake).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift from drive to the top gear (make the engine work hard to accelerate, don't allow downshifting).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steer to edge of road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch off ignition once safely off of road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put transmission in neutral or park.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the engine has not shut down pull fuel pump fuse, or discharge a fire extinguisher into the air intake, or block the air intake, or pull the distributor primary lead – whatever seems like an expeditious way to force the engine to shutdown. That's one of those things that would be worth checking out and thinking about specifically in advance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just curious, on a modern passenger car, can the engine overpower the brakes? I could see one of the design rules being &quot;brake capacity adequate to stop car even if engine is stuck at WOT.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How dangerous is a runaway engine? Would it be better to just move a safe distance from the car rather than trying heroics to stop the engine if the ignition switch isn't working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T03:13:12.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T03:13:12.550" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T03:30:54.143" Score="7" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 20-year old Toyota Tercel with 103K miles. It runs well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last week, the brakes didn't work. I changed a brake hose because it was leaking and I am going to change the other 3 brake hoses soon, but do I need to change other parts in the brake system to make sure that I will not have a brake problem while driving? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;additional details:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem showed up Monday morning. The car was parked for 2 days (not moved). The problem was &quot;no brake at all&quot; : the brake pedal sink towards the floor. There was a lot of oil near the front right wheel. The brake light was on, and the master cylinder was empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is well maintained. I changed the brake fluid twice over the last 10 years.  I replaced the shoes early 2016 and checked the rotors and pads. The brake did not make any sound until after the mechanic took out the pads to check the rotors (early 2016). He mounted the pads and told me that I need to replace the pads and rotors after 10k miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always check the fluids in the car. The brake fluid was always light colored/clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been watching the brake fluid in the master cylinder after replacing the brake hose. It looks good (no changes). The brake pedal is soft. I guess the mechanic didn't bleed the system. when I get the 3 other hoses replaced, I will make sure the system is bled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friction parts usually give some signs before they fail. Also I know how long they have been on the car and when I need to replace them, but leaking is a hidden problem that might start/happen at any time even after inspecting the whole system.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20224" LastEditorUserId="20224" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T20:10:30.997" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:57:43.560" Title="Brake system maintenance" Tags="|toyota|brakes|tercel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33645" CreationDate="2016-07-31T04:21:00.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, change the hoses. No need to buy 'braided stainless steel' hoses that they might up sell you to in the store; the cheap rubber OEM hoses lasted 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might as well change all pads and shoes (and associated hardware), and replace the brake fluid (and then bleed the system). Check the rotors and drums for wear (replace if scored). After all that, you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Don't drain the brake system at any time, unless you want to take the brake master cylinder out and bench-bleed it. Which you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want to do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T04:21:00.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33645" CreationDate="2016-07-31T04:36:20.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; component of the brake system should be evaluated to make certain you will &quot;not have brake problems while driving.&quot;   Particular attention to friction materials (pads in front, I suspect on a 1996 Tercel shoes in the rear) are the major wear components, but rotor discs and drums should also be evaluated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Pete suggested, brake &lt;em&gt;fluid&lt;/em&gt; is often the most negelected [and critical!] part of any modern hydraulic braking system.  Not only does this stuff wear out and get dirty, it's also &lt;em&gt;hygroscopic&lt;/em&gt; (absorbs moisture) which is a bad thing as the water boils easily at temperatures seen in braking systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pads, shoes, rotors, drums, no leaks, and fresh fluid.  I'd feel confident if these things are well in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T04:36:20.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33654" CreationDate="2016-07-31T07:15:41.683" Score="-5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a low end car with 660CC engine&#xA;and then consider a Mercedes with lets say 2000cc engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are going on same destination with 100MPH instantaneous speed currently on the same route with no other traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will they remain at the same level? I mean, considering the Speed = Distance/time formula, will they cover the same distance in the same amount of time and reach the destination at the same time i they maintain the 100 MPH at their odometer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumption: Assuming there are no inconsistencies in the speedometer/odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20226" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T08:23:24.987" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T11:13:32.550" Title="Two cars with different engines going at 100 miles an hour on the same route will be equal to each other on a no-traffic highway?" Tags="|car|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-07-31T18:21:11.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:16:10.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new here, I realize that this is an older post but am curious as to the seemingly sound reasoning that two minutes ( 120 secs) of starter motor use is a normal way to start the car. The other offered snippets of info where a full tank of fuel is said to help only reinforce my thoughts that there is a fuel supply issue. I own several diesel vehicles one of which  has been left for 3 yrs without running and it started easier than the car in this post  and it is the same age with 300,000 miles on the clock. When next restarted it will have been sitting for 30 months, I do not expect to have to do anything other than use a full charged battery to start it. I would suggest if the OP still has problems that he/she check the fuel lines including tank cap and tank vent line, fuel filter and priming pump. A car should start the same way if there is enough fuel in the tank to run it or of the tank is full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20227" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T08:16:10.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33645" CreationDate="2016-07-31T08:41:22.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is no reliable answer possible. We do not know enough about the state of your brakes. Can you describe the color of the brake fluid? Did the brake totally failed to break or was there only a weak breaking? Where there any unusual sounds?&#xA;If the fluid is very dark it would be an indication that maintainance got neglected.&#xA;The most serious answer would be to suggest to do a complete brake-service:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the brakes. Measure the thickness of the rotor and pads/linings, compare to the datasheets. If necessary, replace. Check for leaks, the cylinders in the drums often fail. Check also the brake calipers, inluding the cylinders  and the guidance bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a cylinder in the drum leaks: replace both cylinders and the brake linings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the inside of the drums. Attention: brake dust is dangerous to your health.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the other hoses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the brake fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the old fluid is very dark: I would suggest to overhaul/replace the master cylinder and the brake balancer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be seem overkill, but a defective brake is nothing to take easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Reuse the car only alter you clearly identified the cause of the fault and fixed it. Otherwise: Tow the car to a professional and let him fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, concerning your addition:&#xA;If the whole brake is failing then there must be a failure at the master cylinder. Even if a leak happened to the brake hose or an error happened during installation there is still a second, independent brake circuit. The only single point of failure would be the master cylinder, except of course that the two brake circuits got defective at about the same time. &#xA;I have a strange feeling in my gut (I cannot figure out why one leak can cause two circuits to fail and emptying the master cylinder) but logic tells me that the master cylinder must be defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion: Get it towed to a mechanic. You need to replace the pads/rotors, fix the leak (most possible a brake hose), replace the master cylinder and bleed/fill both circuits (including the abs block).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T21:57:43.560" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:57:43.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33653" CreationDate="2016-07-31T09:45:06.277" Score="4" ViewCount="18061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imported goods like car batteries are difficult to get hold of here. After half a day trying to find somewhere that sold a battery of the right size and specifications that hadn't already gone flat on the shelf, I got it home and, before fitting it, noticed that it was the opposite way around to what I expected - positive on the front left, negative on the front right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't even know they made batteries like this, so I never thought to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fitted it turned around, so that the positive connected to positive and negative to negative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gp3GX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gp3GX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to work fine, it's just rotated 180 degrees and I had to adjust the terminals to get them to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7tHJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7tHJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any problem with having it fitted like this, or precaution I should take? Possibly overthinking things, I put some electrical tape on the back of the positive terminal, since it's closer to the metal chassis than it normally would be, to reduce the chances of something conductive bridging the gap between it and the negative chassis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T21:49:34.950" Title="Car battery back to front (positive on front left) - problem?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T09:53:58.080" Score="9" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is Asbestos still used in any currently manufactured parts, brakes or others? Specifically asking about the USA &amp;amp; Canada, but info on anywhere else in the world is good too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not still used, what year did Asbestos stop being used? - Just in case there's &quot;new old stock&quot; parts from years ago still sitting around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that brake dust is never safe to breathe even without asbestos, but would like to know what year's parts / vehicles could be especially dangerous or contain equally &quot;bad stuff.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few google hits, like this link &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asbestosnetwork.com/High-Risk-Occupations/Auto-Mechanics.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.asbestosnetwork.com/High-Risk-Occupations/Auto-Mechanics.shtml&lt;/a&gt; (with the fine print &lt;em&gt;&quot;Attorney Advertising © 2016 by Brayton Purcell LLP&quot;&lt;/em&gt;) seems to imply asbestos is still in &quot;millions of vehicles,&quot; but I tend to doubt the veracity of &lt;em&gt;&quot;Attorney Advertising.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastEditorUserId="9071" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T12:56:28.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T12:56:28.443" Title="Do parts (like Brakes) &amp; brake dust still contain Asbestos? What years did parts contain Asbestos (or anything equally / more dangerous)?" Tags="|brakes|safety|parts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33651" CreationDate="2016-07-31T10:39:31.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as everything is insulated well there is no reason you shouldn't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider would be in the case of a crash could the Positive be pushed into the chassis? Insulate accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T10:39:31.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33648" CreationDate="2016-07-31T11:08:01.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If two cars are driving at 100 mph, yes, they both will be done 100 miles after 1 hour or 200 miles after 2 hours, exactly same distance, same destination. No matter what type or size car it is, unless one of the cars is Developed by Professor Doug DMC DeLorean :D&#xA;Only concern would be how long time 660cc car will need to reach (if it will reach) 100 MPH high speed :)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prRnX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prRnX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T11:13:32.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T11:13:32.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33641" CreationDate="2016-07-31T11:36:06.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technologies are going forward and any decent car should be able to stop a roaring engine with a brake pedal. However, if it doesn't work, you have to switch the ignition key off, and leave the engine turning over to pump your brake booster and power steering (if it's hydraulic). If it still doesn't stop, get it to neutral, stop the car, jump out, open the bonnet, and put the flat hand in front of intake duct (choke the engine), or if you have any available rug near by, faster would be to block the exhaust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T11:36:06.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33657" CreationDate="2016-07-31T11:36:44.020" Score="7" ViewCount="12527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I few years back a large chunk of my brake lines were replaced due to a failure in my brake booster. Working on my vehicle now I can see the usual cost of driving on salty winter roads, the lines are starting to look rather corroded; to the point that in the name of preventative maintenance I'll be replacing them sooner rather than later. This time I would like them to last longer than a handful of years in the same climate as what caused the corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps in preparation (or install) of brake lines can be taken to decrease the effects of corrosion affecting them? Would painting help, perhaps some sort of undercoating material? Would anti-seize on the line's threads prevent them rusting to calipers and other components? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this is preventative maintenance and not a repair where loss of drivability is occurring, expect that I have as much time as needed to prepare the lines ahead of time for anything that may take several days to do before install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20194" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T12:24:13.537" Title="Prevent (or significantly reduce) brake line rust" Tags="|brakes|maintenance|rust|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33656" CreationDate="2016-07-31T12:22:34.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got two choices as I see it here to prevent (or significantly reduce) exterior brake line rust:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use stainless steel brake lines. This is a great option, but SS lines (and I'm not talking about braided lines here) is a lot harder to use than regular steel. It is more prone to splitting. The ends have to be treated differently due to this. SS will significantly reduce the amount of corrosion which would be seen on the brake lines, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When replacing the brake lines, cover them with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.por15.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;POR15&lt;/a&gt;. This stuff bonds with, coats, and changes the metal making it impervious to rust. There are two caveats with this stuff, though. First, you cannot get it onto the fittings. if you do and then tighten it into the caliper or what have you, it will not come apart. It will weld the two pieces together, even worse than rust would do it. Secondly, it cannot be exposed to sunlight for a long period of time. If it is, it will degrade and allow for corrosion. This isn't a problem underneath the car, but thought I'd mention it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider with rusted brake lines. Ensure you are changing out the brake fluid every two years or sooner. Brake fluid collects water over time. This make it so the insides of the brake lines corrode as well. Not good to have the lines being eaten away from both sides at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T12:22:34.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33656" CreationDate="2016-07-31T12:31:58.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have pretty much answered your own question. The spray can undercoating has done me well over the years. My personal experience on a 1984 Dodge that I sprayed was 18 years and one brake line. That was 18 New England winters. My 2002 Silverado (the only vehicle I didn't spray) it came from the dealer with some kind of waxy coating on the under carriage, all the lines were rusty after 6 years. The first line failed after 8 years. On a new vehicle you can't spray the side of the line where it sits on the frame though. I just spray a good heavy coat that fills the gap against the frame. I only apply anti-seize on the bleeders. It may be just a gut feeling but I can't imagine it would a good thing if it worked it way into an ABS module. The undercoating does a good job of protecting the fittings. Just be careful if you have to apply some heat to remove a component as the undercoating will burn and it generates an awful smell while burning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T12:31:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33652" CreationDate="2016-07-31T12:57:23.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ Paulster has stated most of us assumed that the asbestos issue went away years ago. I would like to believe that the EPA has regulated asbestos out of the US automotive manufacturing market. Even if you could legally make asbestos brake pads, the industrial controls needed to meet dust containment would likely be too costly for a $25 set of brake pads. However we live in a global economy. Parts can come from anywhere in the world. The regulations governing those parts are only as strong as local enforcement                                   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T12:57:23.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T13:32:05.947" Score="3" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please can you tell me what else do I have to check to solve the problem.......because what I have done in my truck haven't helped. It does start the engine but after I try two or three times after that seems to work fine. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20232" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T14:07:49.250" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:21:20.650" Title="03 ford expedition with a poor idle to start" Tags="|ford|rough-idle|expedition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21111" CreationDate="2016-07-31T15:15:02.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did this and it still didn't work. BUT then I tried rotating the IPM and cleaning all the contacts on C1 (green) and C6 (&quot;yellow&quot;) connectors seemed to do the trick.  Not sure which one did it, but they're now both on!&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20235" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T15:15:02.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T16:53:23.660" Score="2" ViewCount="3757" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 BMW x5 won't start. I checked the battery, it seems to be okay. Nothing electrical works in the entire car. What could cause this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20236" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T17:30:31.127" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T22:54:04.873" Title="2002 BMW x5 won't start, does not click, no electrical power" Tags="|electrical|bmw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33652" CreationDate="2016-07-31T16:57:05.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pads manufactured in China are notorious for containing asbestos. It won't be on the label either, so no way for the Man to keep them out of the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.startpage.com/do/search?query=china+brake+pads+asbestos&amp;amp;cat=web&amp;amp;pl=chrome&amp;amp;language=english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.startpage.com/do/search?query=china+brake+pads+asbestos&amp;amp;cat=web&amp;amp;pl=chrome&amp;amp;language=english&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T21:29:58.757" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:29:58.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33662" CreationDate="2016-07-31T17:07:58.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your &lt;strong&gt;ignition switch&lt;/strong&gt; may not be making good electrical contact. Get a repair manual for your vehicle (not the owner's manual, a repair manual, from  Haynes or Chilton), they will tell you how to make a continuity test on your ignition switch (you will need a multimeter, $15 at WalMart)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your battery may not be &lt;strong&gt;sending power&lt;/strong&gt; to the rest of the car. Disconnect the battery terminals, clean both the terminals and the posts with a steel wire brush. Make sure not to have something metallic touch the battery posts while doing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your battery &lt;strong&gt;may only look fine&lt;/strong&gt;. Grab that multimeter and take a voltage reading of your battery with the car off. 12.6V is normal, 11.8V is pretty much the minimum you need to turn the car on. If it's too low, give your battery a boost and turn the car on. With the car on, take the battery voltage reading again, 14V is normal, if it's less than 13V your alternator isn't charging the battery. If everything is reading fine, turn absolutely everything electrical on (rear defrost, heater fan, headlights, radio) and take your reading again, it should drop to 13V. If everything looks fine, turn the car off and take that voltage reading again, you are expecting the same numbers as when you started this (12.6V). Anything less, your battery isn't holding a charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T17:07:58.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33651" CreationDate="2016-07-31T17:57:54.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your battery needs to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be securely and correctly connected to the battery wiring harness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be mounted securely, to the car, in an upright position (don't spill acid everywhere).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not short against anything else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be protected from the elements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what you do if you meet those criteria then you have no problem. As for #2 just remember that the battery is a heavy object usually filled with liquid (that can give off flammable / toxic vapors), use your imagination to predict the effects of physics accordingly (e.g. don't stick it to your roof with masking tape or try to balance it on your head while driving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery in your photo appears to meet these criteria although I would, as you say, insulate the positive side to protect it from the chassis as well as from yourself. Plus the red boot visually indicates the positive side clearly, eliminating surprises for folks who may be expecting it to be the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T18:39:48.837" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T18:39:48.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T18:14:08.180" Score="2" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reassembling evap purge solenoid valve to evap purge pressure switch valve any pics or websites that can help. Camera on phone doesn't work. Need visual aid to reassemble&#xA; Help please .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20193" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T18:23:39.723" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T19:16:27.773" Title="95 blazer evap can purge solenoid valve to evap purge pressure switch valve" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|blazer|evap|purge-solenoid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35758" CreationDate="2016-07-31T18:24:15.503" Score="6" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey. Yesterday, it starting having an issue where it would no longer start. The engine would not even crank, but there did not appear to be a battery or battery connection issue as lights, radio, et al still worked and did not seem to dim or be affected when key turned to crank/start position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some trial and error, checking battery cables, etc, I noticed that when the key was moved to the ON position, the D light on the transmission dash indicator remained lit for a few seconds and I could hear what sounded like a motor running or buzzing of some sort for about 2 seconds. Once that stops and the light goes off, then I can turn the key to the start/crank position and the engine will start fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't do this until yesterday. What might be failing or going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20237" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T16:59:57.273" Title="2004 Honda Odyssey won't start for a few seconds after key moved to ON position" Tags="|honda|starting|odyssey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33608" CreationDate="2016-07-31T19:35:25.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;dlu, your #3 was correct - specifically the &quot;accidentally disturb wiring&quot; bit. I redid everything to find any errors, and sure enough once of the screws that held on the plastic under-steering wheel dash panel also holds an electrical connection to ground - it was small and not obvious, but upon reconnection all is well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silly mistake on my part - I simply didn't imagine that a plastic dash panel connection would have electrical significance. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20204" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T19:35:25.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33667" CreationDate="2016-07-31T20:11:54.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The buzzing you are hearing is the fuel pump priming/pressurizing the fuel system, this is a normal sound. Most people don't hear it because the engine is normally in the process of starting at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The D light suggests the PCM has detected an issue related to the transmission and may have a trouble code stored. Get the code read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T20:11:54.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33651" CreationDate="2016-07-31T20:17:58.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there is nothing wrong with fitting this battery in your car, the fact that it sits backwards from what you would expect only means that it is not the battery that was made to fit your car. Car batteries are divided into &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;groups&lt;/a&gt;&quot; based on size of the battery and location of the battery posts, and which side is positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T20:17:58.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T21:14:21.970" Score="5" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange issue with a 2001 Grand Prix (3.8L vin K)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No crank when the car sits in the hot sun for a few hours, has nothing to do with a engine hot soak. All dash light seem to pilot, just no crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let it cool off after the sun goes down a bit it will crank and start. All you have to do is park it in the hot sun (Texas 95 degrees F), even if the engine bay is cool after a few hours it will not crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starter has been replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as my research shows the ign switch is fed form the main panel (40a fuse) under the hood (near battery) directly to the ignition switch, then goes through the neutral safety switch to the starter, no theft deterrent intervention. I have tried moving the shifter up and down the range with key in start position with no luck, so I assume neutral switch is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schematic pulled from AllData, appears to be the way GM has done it for ages, if anyone has better data on the wiring please post or link to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnG64.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnG64.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot do any diagnosis until Tuesday, check voltage in and out of ign switch, same for neutral safety switch, check voltage at starter solenoid with key in start position. Check Starter install and wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen this specific behavior on this model or similar before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will post back on Tuesday if I learn more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:09:14.800" Title="01 Grand Prix No Crank when it sits in the hot Sun" Tags="|gm|grand-prix|no-crank-no-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33660" CreationDate="2016-07-31T21:21:20.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thoroughly Clean the throttle body with approved aerosol cleaner then reset idle strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reset idle strategy disconnect battery for 5 minutes, reconnect battery and start engine with all accessories off, do to touch steering wheel or brakes pedal, let idle on its own for 15 minutes, then turn ac on high and let idle for another 15 minutes, turn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idle strategy is re learned now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:21:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T21:23:13.263" Score="5" ViewCount="1723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed a problem with my accelerator pedal, which caused a different unexpected change to how my automatic behaves. Since it's my first automatic (I normally drive manuals), &lt;strong&gt;I want to know which is right between the old and new behaviour&lt;/strong&gt;. I don't know if I fixed two problems, or fixed one and caused another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you're driving an automatic at, for example, 34 mph on a flat smooth road. Imagine 30mph is around the speed below which you'd expect to feel this car downshift the gear. You ease off the accelerator pedal. Which of these would be the correct expected behaviour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car should gently slow, downshifting gear without needing any brake, and keep on slowing.  &lt;strong&gt;This is what my car did before.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The car should gently slow to around 30mph, then stay in gear and cruise at 30mph. It shouldn't normally downshift unless you use the brake or the road changes (e.g. you go uphill). &lt;strong&gt;This is what it does now.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There isn't really any right answer to this, it varies, either is fine, neither is cause for concern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why I'm asking:&lt;/strong&gt; While fixing &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33630/accelerator-pedal-stuck-briefly-how-to-make-sure-it-doesnt-happen-again&quot;&gt;a problem with my accelerator pedal sticking&lt;/a&gt; in my first ever automatic (which is also old and glitchy), having always driven manuals, its behaviour changed from 1 (downshifts when no pedals are used) above to 2 (usually doesn't downshift without using the brake). Since I've not driven any other automatic, I don't know if the new behaviour is normal or unusual - i.e. if I've made things better, worse, or neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did that seemingly fixed the sticking pedal problem was to replace the rubber boot on the throttle chain where it joins the accelerator pedal leaver, which had torn. It was supposed to be about 12mm of solid rubber rigidly holding the end of the throttle chain, instead, it was torn and spongey. I checked that the throttle chain is still slightly slack when the pedal is not pressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving feels very different now. The pedal had previously felt spongy (the torn rubber boot was getting squashed up before actually pulling the throttle chain) - but I'd just assumed automatics were designed like that to prevent excess acceleration. Now it's more responsive, which feels better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change I'm not sure is positive is: whereas before, at any speed I'd need to keep applying some gas to stay in a higher gear, and just leaving off the gas on flat would be enough to gently, slowly reduce speed and drop a gear (which I also assumed was a feature of an automatic), now, it drops speed until it reaches the point where it would normally change gear, then stays in that gear and maintains that speed (note that while the car has cruise control, it wasn't on and I never use it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having never driven any other automatic, I'm not sure if this is normal behaviour, and the previous behaviour was a fault caused by the knackered rubber boot making the throttle chain too slack, or if this is unusual behaviour, caused by my replacing the rubber boot making the throttle chain too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/685/does-a-car-normally-continue-moving-at-a-constant-speed-when-in-gear-and-the-foo&quot;&gt;this similar question&lt;/a&gt; but a comment shows that it's a manual transmission (and seemingly they're stalling it, judging by how the engine cuts out...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T07:00:40.110" Title="Should an automatic drop gears while driving flat without using any pedals, or should it cruise?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|acceleration|throttle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33656" CreationDate="2016-07-31T21:25:04.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace the lines with Copper-Nickel Brake line is the best solution imho, it will not corrode and is far cheaper and far easier to bend and flare than Stainless steel line. So sweet to work with. Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00651OAVS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:25:04.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33602" CreationDate="2016-07-31T21:47:29.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 good solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill out the broken bolt (dead center) then chase threads with a proper sized tap. If I know the size of the bolt and thread pitch I can recommend finish size of the drill before tapping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weld a proper sized nut to the sheared side of the bolt (weld internal of the nut), then use a socket on the welded nut to extract the remaining bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T21:47:29.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33679" CreationDate="2016-08-01T00:26:08.910" Score="19" ViewCount="26624" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably ridiculous question but I can't seem to find a chart on google that explains typical parts of a classic american car. I always seen that round disc like cylinder on top of many muscle car engine . what is that called? PS - I am no mechanic just curious. thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20245" LastEditorUserId="20245" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T04:19:26.563" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T10:54:42.070" Title="what is round cylinder on top of classic car engine" Tags="|part-identification|classic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33678" CreationDate="2016-08-01T00:39:11.037" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're talking about a classic air filter housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older style air filters were round in shape and sat inside a round metal enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Holden straight 6 from the 80s, where the air filter element is housed and sits on top of the carbeuretor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqBxf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqBxf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An example from an Aussie classic - the Holden 202&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's interesting to note that even modern cars, the check engine light still has a silhouette of an classic shape engine with the air filter sitting on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wiVaj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wiVaj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modern CEL&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="17586" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T03:14:39.297" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T03:14:39.297" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T02:00:32.337" Score="10" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot afford to paint my 30 year old RV (in which I rebuilt the engine and plan on going on a Road Trip around the world!) professionaly ... Can I paint my entire Class C RV using Rustoleum fluorescent green if no rust, what will be the result and how long will the paint job last ?? What else do I need to do ? Thanks in advance for any info or opinions !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20246" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:01:39.400" Title="Can I paint my entire Class C RV using fluorescent green and how long will the paint job last" Tags="|ford|paint|exterior|econoline|rv|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11014" CreationDate="2016-08-01T02:23:23.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add, the blower uses a belt to force air into the cylinders to increase the air/fuel mixture. The belt is parasitic, however the blower provides more power than it uses. On Top Fuel Dragsters (and Funny cars) your looking at about a 600hp loss but the power increase more than makes up for the loss. After all a top fuel Dragster goes 300mph in 3-4 seconds. While I've only used one once (yes I'm a Drag racer) it was worth the power gain. I would also like to point out that unless your using a high octane fuel or a alcohol/nitromethane fuel you shouldn't really bother. Normally the blower will raise the cylinder pressure up to around 50psi resulting in other potential problems like hydrofracking (this is where you let off the gas then get back on the accelerator causing a dumping of fuel into the cylinder which becomes solid and can't be compressed causing a rod to throw). Keep in mind I'm trying to be non-technical about a technical topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:23:23.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28916" CreationDate="2016-08-01T02:40:56.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my experience with old classic cars. My father and I (he's passed on) rebuilt 9 old mopars, from a 1936 Chrysler to a 68 Roadrunner 383 Commando (as well as a 68 Satellite into a RR reproduction with a 440 and a 63 Dodge Polara Race car).&#xA;No, Older cars are not as safe as newer ones and that has been well covered. However their are things you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; do to make older cars safer if you want to drive them on the streets. First is the tires. Get rid of the old Radial Tires. Their Dangerous. If you have never driven with them they are very different than steel belted tires. Next you should do updates. The front end and brakes are the two biggest. The front end will help with keeping the car on the road (those old front ends were known for curvy country lane driving) and the brakes because you want to shorten the stopping distance. From their it's usually little things like shocks and better head lights. Remember, those parts were &quot;cutting&quot; edge in the 60's, we have better now. If you do these things, then yes that old car can be a daily driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:40:56.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3980" CreationDate="2016-08-01T02:55:21.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've rebuilt a few transmissions (actually a lot of transmissions LOL) and no, manually shifting is just fine. All your doing is replacing the TCU with your own shifts. So your just fine manually shifting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WOW just saw this was a four year old question... sorry folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:55:21.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33680" CreationDate="2016-08-01T03:02:39.557" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can!  I've painted several of my race cars this way, on a limited budget.  The looked wonderful, and I usually wrecked them before the paint was an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prep very well (all automotive paintjobs are 90% prep work, and 10% spraying) you can get outstanding results.  You do need to have some painting experience, even with a rattlecan. It will not last as long as automotive paint, but it will look nice for years and last years after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two possible caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flourecent green has a terrible ability to cover.  You either need to prime first in white or grey, or spray on an already light existing color.  Note that any variation in color (rust, bondo patch, something unpainted or sanded) will show through clear as day.  The base [primer] coat needs to be uniform.  Existing paint needs to be &quot;roughed up&quot; and thouroughly cleaned with solvents and tack rags before spraying.  Outdoors, you need perfect cool, windless weather, and a lack of insects is really helpful.  Conditions that are rarely, if ever, available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you ever desire a professional automotive paint job, every last trace of &quot;Rustoleum&quot; will have to be stripped.  Rustoleum formulations have oils or magic chemicals which resist corrosion, but they also make it difficult for other paints to stick to it.  It will cost extra and the bodyman will curse you (ask me how I know).  However, if a &quot;real&quot; paint job or budget is never in the forseable cards, spray away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to need a &lt;em&gt;bunch&lt;/em&gt; of rattlecans.  Again, flourecent green has poor coverage, will require multiple coats, and it sounds like you have a lot of area to cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some thinking, you might find that an &quot;Earl Scheib&quot; or &quot;Macco&quot; type low-budget job won't be much more than the cost of 20 cans of primer and 30 cans of green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T21:52:56.703" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:52:56.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33666" CreationDate="2016-08-01T03:55:03.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if this helps; best I could find...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGvOQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGvOQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T04:59:11.133" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T04:59:11.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T05:42:00.623" Score="2" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again 85 Yamaha 750maxim how do you adjust the clutch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T10:00:25.107" Title="How do you adjust a motorcycle clutch?" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-01T22:44:08.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33678" CreationDate="2016-08-01T11:04:19.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated it's a circular air filter. It's positioned there because it sits on top of the carburetor. Modern cars rarely use circular air filters, they are usually square or rectangular and are connected to the air intake system by tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't just musclecars which used this configuration, it was extremely common on carbureted engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17594" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T11:04:19.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33626" CreationDate="2016-08-01T11:53:28.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the setup of your mustang, but I am going to assume it is similar to other booster/master setups I've seen.  Here are the approximate steps you would follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect battery.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disconnect pedal from master/booster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disconnect vacuum line from booster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Disconnect brake lines from master. &lt;br&gt; &#xA;Disconnect booster from firewall.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install is the reverse of removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your best to not spill the fluid, its corrosive and causes rust.  You may want to remove as much fluid as possible before removing the old master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before installing the new master, bench bleed it.  Run a line from the output of the master back into the reservoir and pump it until you don't see bubbles anymore. Keep fluid in it and make sure it doesn't run dry or you will have to bench bleed it again.  You will need to bleed the system when you are done.  This may take a while as you need to bleed for the entire length of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if it would be better to remove/install the booster and master as one or separate, or if it really matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T11:53:28.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33656" CreationDate="2016-08-01T12:24:13.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a spray pump for olive oil or some such and spray everything down with diesel fuel every 3 couple of months. This will protect the steel and also start to freel up rusted bolts and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20253" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T12:24:13.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:08:10.750" Score="4" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I&amp;nbsp;recently sold my old Clio and bought a new Polo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my old Clio I had rubber mats on top of the original mats, which were super easy to clean with some water and maybe some scrubbing when they were extra dirty (including mud, beach sand, unidentified slime, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My new Polo has a very different interior style. It's more classy and I'd like to keep it that way, so I don't think rubber mats are the way to go (or maybe they are...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for alternative ways to keep the floor of the car nice and easy to clean while keeping the look of the car as similar as possible to its original style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11761" LastEditorUserId="16380" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T20:52:16.137" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T12:03:34.913" Title="How to protect floor mats?" Tags="|cleaning|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33692" CreationDate="2016-08-01T13:37:09.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tailored floor mats are available for most popular cars in various materials including rubber and carper / velour style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of these mats is that they can be removed and cleaned / washed outside of the vehicle.  Vacuuming, carpet washing, jet washing, etc will usually return most floor mats to a pristine finish and when they eventually do become worn out, they can simply and inexpensively be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting the ones which are specifically tailored to your vehicle.  The &quot;generic&quot; / universal mats can move around on the floor, curl up and interfere with the operation of the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have three Volkswagens, two of which are equipped with tailored rubber mats.  I personally prefer these as they are hard wearing and can easily be cleaned.  I also have a tip for finishing these; black boot polish.  Always brings them up like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our other Volkswagen we have carpet mats which do the job but are now starting to wear and will need replaced soon (they have done over ten years of service).  In all of our cars, the carpet under the mats looks brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth considering, you can purchase a tailored &quot;boot mat&quot; to line the boot / trunk floor with from many of the same places as sell the floor mats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T13:37:09.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33680" CreationDate="2016-08-01T15:26:43.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you do it? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you ever lose your vehicle in a car park? No. Not in a million years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea? Well, you're going to do the prep yourself anyway. Strip and prep to a rolling chassis, and get a quote from a local paint shop for a blow-over in the original color (or close to it). It may be surprisingly close in price to the cost of the rustoleum or painting equipment you'd need to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T15:26:43.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T16:07:44.337" Score="8" ViewCount="4750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a high schooler that was lucky enough to get a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2l automatic 4 door sedan for $100 for my 16th birthday. One of the parents owns a drag strip/race track that we can use, so we are NOT doing this stuff on the road. Sometimes after school we like to race for fun. I already know that a cavalier is not the ideal car. We are careful about it, so we don't need a safety warning. The car is completely unmodded and I was wondering what I could do for fairly cheap to make it more show off (from a high schooler's perspective such as faster acceleration, louder engine, higher top speed, etc.) Sadly there is hardly any room under the hood for extra stuff. I am fairly good with electronics and I have a way to interface my arduino to the obd2 port so if I can do anything there please suggest it (I don't have access to a reprogrammer, but I can send commands over the obd2 port, but I am not very familiar with obd2.) So in conclusion what can I do for fairly cheap to make it more show off (from a high schooler's perspective such as faster acceleration, louder engine, higher top speed, etc.) If this is the wrong place to ask this question, can you please suggest where to ask it. Any ideas are welcome. This does still have to work as an every day car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The engine doesn't have any problems and it is at ~168,000 mi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastEditorUserId="17257" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T18:38:16.043" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T06:48:59.127" Title="2000 chevy cavalier cheap upgrades" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|modification|racing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33695" CreationDate="2016-08-01T16:27:00.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most vehicles, the cheap but effective upgrades are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advance your timing:&lt;/strong&gt; 2 degrees of timing advance can give you a bit more umph, you may need to start using intermediate fuel instead of regular though&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust header:&lt;/strong&gt; on most vehicles, this is the best bang for your budget buck. Replace your stock exhaust manifold by an exhaust header, let the engine breathe more easily, free up some power. Generic ones can be just as good for less money. You're looking at $100 for the part.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9tX0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9tX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Performance air filter:&lt;/strong&gt; replace your paper air filter with a reusable cartridge, good for a few more HP. Stay away from short ram intakes, all they do is look cool, but now your engine is breathing warm air. You're looking at $60 for the part.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UyR37.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UyR37.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exhaust:&lt;/strong&gt; Most vehicles either don't have much gains to be had from an exhaust upgrade, or the upgrade is expensive. We are talking about replacing the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter to the muffler. A larger diameter usually allows better flow, but go too big and you kill your performance. Some vehicles don't have the space to accomodate a larger pipe, and some vehicles already have a pretty optimal-sized pipe. Muffler upgrades only give you minimal gains in performance, people mostly do this for obnoxious sound or to have shiny things sticking out from under your bumper. There are shiny muffler tips that will do that last part for cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nitrous oxide:&lt;/strong&gt; This will give you a boost at the press of a button. Ideal for the drag-strip, not terribly expensive for the bang you get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T16:27:00.053" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33678" CreationDate="2016-08-01T17:51:47.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's relative to whether the engine uses a carburetor or has fuel injection. The round air filer housing sat on top of a carburetor where the gas and air are mixed before going to the cylinders. Newer cars use fuel injection and the plumbing for the air flow is different. The air usually goes through an airbox where a flat, square filer is in place. The fuel is then injected into the air flow (throttle body) or directly into the cylinders (a better design). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20262" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:51:47.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9760" CreationDate="2016-08-01T18:09:05.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best first thing to do is to get the error codes read on the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a 05 Audi and 09 passat. These cars have controllers for everything that read the state of the various car systems using sensors and the AC is one of the more complex units in the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the AC is not working then good chance its detecting a problem and raising a fault code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to fix an issue without getting the fault codes read is taking a stab in the dark in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the US made VCDS tool from RossTech. If you post on a forum somewhere you might get someone in your local area willing to do the scan for a small fee ( a sixpack of beers )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T18:09:05.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33695" CreationDate="2016-08-01T18:22:21.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;If the question emphasis is on &lt;em&gt;cheap&lt;/em&gt;, weight reduction is your friend&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A lighter car accelerates more quickly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because physics. Since you're planning to drag race, top speed should be less of a concern here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It costs nothing except time and effort&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus it'll help you get familiar with how the car is bolted together&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There's a chance you can earn something from selling the parts you remove&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think breakers' yards, eBay, dedicated car forums... The proceeds could then be used towards purchasing a performance mod later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You'd be following the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colin_Chapman&quot;&gt;Colin Chapman&lt;/a&gt; philosophy: &quot;Simplify, and add lightness&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the low-hanging fruit of racing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are lots of components that could be removed without affecting the car's essential functionalities&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples (you can pick and choose what you want to keep):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air conditioning components (compressor, condenser, evaporator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all seats except the driver's seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interior trim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;engine bonnet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T18:22:21.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33309" CreationDate="2016-08-01T19:52:18.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to read everything using OBD. Sometimes you can be lucky and the proprietary protocol your car uses can provide you with the right info, however this wouldn't be reliable as it will be considered a diagnostic session by the car's computers (and you may not be able to talk to two computers at once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I suggest you reverse-engineer the protocol used by the instrument cluster to obtain that data, and have your device just pretend to be the instrument cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19533" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T19:52:18.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T21:00:13.170" Score="2" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know the power polarity of Corsa C Electric Power Steering ECU 12V power connector. I suppose the power is the right connector in following photo (it has 2 flat pins vertically aligned):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Osxb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Osxb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone knows what is the left connector for that would be nice too. The torque sensor and DC motor are connected from the other side of the unit (not pictured) - I am not interested in those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the ECU part number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5D1v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5D1v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3991" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T21:00:13.170" Title="Corsa C electric power steering ECU 12V power polarity" Tags="|power-steering|electronic-control-module|opel|gm|corsa|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T21:13:51.947" Score="3" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a 1983 Volvo 245 diesel. The alternator and battery are both less than 4 years old. A year ago, the battery light would not go out after starting. The alt is charging fine. A diode check was done and is normal, but I'm reading 30 AC volts across the pos and neg battery terminals. The AC volts between the alt output terminal and neg batt post are a few 10ths of a volt higher. I've been driving it a year now with no problems with the battery. Any ideas why the high AC voltage reading and is this causing the battery light to stay on, and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20266" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T21:13:51.947" Title="battery light will not go out" Tags="|battery|alternator|volvo|warning-light|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33710" CreationDate="2016-08-01T21:39:42.490" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question forked from another question about budget performance upgrades from another user. Weight reduction came up, and rather than hijack that discussion, I thought I'd start a new one here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most people need their vehicle to remain functional and compliant, where's the dead weight one can remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Functional means doors, seats, windows and all external sheetmetal need to stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T21:43:23.553" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T03:21:02.287" Title="Most effective weight reduction in modern cars?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|performance|weight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33704" CreationDate="2016-08-01T21:42:15.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spare tire and jack are a good place to start. Lots of weight there, and most people would not change a tire on the side of the road and have their vehicle towed instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the added benefit of freeing up space in the trunk for things people are likely to use, like booster cables, windshield washer fluid container and a jerry can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T21:42:15.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T22:58:18.607" Score="6" ViewCount="51361" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend explained that the following is a simple way to test an alternator to see if it is working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn on the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While it is running, carefully remove one of the 12V battery leads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See if the vehicle continues to run.  If the vehicle keeps running, the alternator is working.  If the vehicle stops running, the alternator is not working.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To be clear, I am not recommending trying this.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work?  Will it damage the vehicle at all?  Is it dangerous to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10003" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T01:31:06.563" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T16:04:44.513" Title="Technique to test an alternator - fact or fiction?" Tags="|battery|alternator|safety|diagnostics|battery-cable|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33706" CreationDate="2016-08-02T00:30:48.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an easier and safer way to test an alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a multimeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the car on but all accessories off, read the voltage between the battery terminals (a healthy alternator will read about 14V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the car on and all electrical accessories on, read the voltage again (a healthy alternator will read about 13V)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T00:30:48.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33706" CreationDate="2016-08-02T00:42:02.430" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To directly answer this question, no it won't work and you run the risk of damaging your alternator if it is good while doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test you are asking about was used quite successfully with generators, but should not be used with alternators. Alternators are internally regulated. When you pull the battery lead, you run the risk of killing the regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying the car will or will not die with out the battery hooked up. It more than likely will run if the alternator is producing some semblance of juice. Besides the possible damage to a good alternator, if the alternator is not producing full voltage, but just enough to keep the engine running, you'll never know it using this method. If you lose a single diode, the alternator would behave in just this manor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by @tlhIngan, use a multimeter to test the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a very weird, but good video of &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4XJT91-kP2A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to test an alternator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there has been so much conjecture and comments thrown in below this answer, I'm adding some stuff from what appears to be an authoritative web source. The source is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_disconnect_battery.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Troubleshooters.com&lt;/a&gt; under the section called Automotive Troubleshooting. Here are some excerpts on why you should not remove the connection to your battery with the engine running (I think it pretty much regurgitates what @JasonC says in the comments, but I'll throw it out here anyway):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's possible for the alternator voltage to go way over the top (I've heard some say hundreds of volts), frying everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet when you tell them not to, they'll roll their eyes. &amp;quot;I'm a professional. I do this every day. It's fine!&amp;quot; They'll sound so authoritative. So commanding. So in charge. So intimidating. But they're wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, of course, is that disconnecting the battery doesn't always damage something. It does it only sometimes. Less experienced jump start professionals and automotive technicians figure if they got away with it a few times, it must be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T20:53:23.857" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T01:47:00.760" Score="1" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first issue is that my belt was vibrateing badly when I would run the air conditioning.  I came to find out it was a pulley on the alternator that was bad. You can't just replace component, you have to buy the whole alternator. Bought one from auto zone  on June 20th and buy end of July it went bad. It first smelt like a electrical wires burning but couldn't figure it out, the next day it was fine . Took it back to autozone  and had it checked it was good put it back on 2 days later wife was driving the car and it broke down. Some of the parts inside fell apart so I took it back and replaced it. When I put the new one on the alternator was getting hot Within 45 seconds to a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it is going on with it or is the heat a normal occurrence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20272" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T02:29:08.627" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T08:05:52.217" Title="2005 nissan altima alternator getting hot" Tags="|electrical|nissan|alternator|altima|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33704" CreationDate="2016-08-02T03:10:06.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your comfort level.  AC system (complete, condensor, compressor, evap, piping, etc), stereo, and every bit of interior except the seats and critical controls.  Glovebox, airbags, related control modules, wiring, door panels, &lt;em&gt;carpet&lt;/em&gt;, insulation, sound deadening materials, even the entire dashboard can be removed and the critical instrumentation and controls remounted with brackets.  Lawn tractor or racing batteries are enough to start most 4-cyl engines, and can be relocated to better weight distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome trim, body decorations, bezels, bumper &lt;em&gt;covers&lt;/em&gt; (not required by law) hood blanket, engine covers and non-essential trim, cruise control components, the list is almost unending, but return on effort starts to diminsh (eg headliner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is how willing you are to drive such a beast, and if your performance/efficiency goals couldn't be realized with a chip and a change of driving style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not conjecture, I've done the above many times over, racing both Showroom Stock and Improved Touring cars with SCCA for decades, that still could be streeted and inspected in New York, albeit terribly uncomfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T03:21:02.287" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T03:21:02.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33715" CreationDate="2016-08-02T04:41:37.770" Score="3" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;After months of driving with the cord of my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0119F9EPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dashcam&lt;/a&gt; hanging over the rearview mirror, I finally decided that it was time to hard-wire my dashcam. At the same time, I decided that it was also time to eliminate the nasty ground-loop engine noise that comes from plugging in my phone or tablet into power and AUX-in (replaced the original audio unit) by installing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FX4FO1S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bluetooth receiver&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bellautomotive.com/Auxiliary-Power-Socket-p/22-1-39048-8.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;add-in accessory socket&lt;/a&gt;, which I installed behind the knee-bolster using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002BGELQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add-a-Circuit&lt;/a&gt; to make the electrical connection. I routed the dashcam power and the extension microphone for the Bluetooth down through the A-pillar and into the space behind the knee bolster, as well as the power line for the Bluetooth receiver which is double-sided-taped near the radio. I used the spare USB port on the Bluetooth receiver's power plug to power the dashcam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final task was to find a good fuse location to use for the Add-a-Circuit. The only two requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched: Powered only when in Acc./On position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Max 10A original fuse: Limitation printed on the Add-a-Circuit instructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C7qxm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C7qxm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fuse Box Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the two fuse spaces shown above in red contain no fuses and are unlabeled in the Owner's Manual and also in the Service Manual, so I decided to try to see if one of them would work and I wouldn't have to split an existing fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Interestingly, I noticed that while my '95 has two empty spaces, this picture of the '96 uses the top-right space for the rear defogger.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my multimeter, I determined (I thought) that the top-right space is on when the key is on, and off when the key is off. I neglected to test the spot in &quot;Acc&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to put my accessory plug on the top-right fuse spot, tested that everything worked, zip-tied the wires in place, and reassembled everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I later got to my destination, I had about 30 seconds remaining on a podcast, so I turned the key to &quot;Acc&quot; to stop the engine and let the last few seconds run with just the radio on.  Imagine my surprise when the radio stayed on but the podcast didn't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, given that the '96 uses this fuse location for the rear defogger, it seems reasonable to me to assume that it is supposed to be on only when the key is &quot;On&quot; (like the rest of the HVAC system.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that would be fine, except that it made me notice an additional issue: While it seems that the car cuts power to accessories such as the radio while cranking the starter, it (unsurprisingly) does not cut power to this fuse location. That means that every time I start the engine, I see the dashcam and Bluetooth receiver status lights flicker in time with the cranking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves me with a two-part question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I do any damage to the car by leaving accessories connected to a place that isn't designed for them? Even if I don't actually do damage, could this make the car harder to start becausde it is diverting extra current away from the starter?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Might this result in damage to my dashcam and Bluetooth receiver caused by the current fluctuation while the starter is cranking?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can (should?) move the Add-a-Circuit to a different location, such as the radio fuse, but I'm still curious about the answer here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T10:29:11.483" Title="Using the two blank fuse spots on my Prizm for accessories?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|electronics|dashcam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33488" CreationDate="2016-08-02T06:08:01.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did spill oil on the engine, it can take a pretty good while before it will burn off completely. The oil pressure readings you're getting sound great. If you are getting different oil pressure readings now, it could be because you used a different viscosity oil than before, which could be helping your oil pump. The pump is basically a little propeller that's driven by the engines timing, which is why when the throttle is applied the pressure rises, much in the same way as your voltmeter, which displays the current amount of electricity being produced to run every electrical system the car has but also maintains and refills the amount of electricity in your battery, so it'll start the next time you need it to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find an oil leak, get under your car again, as if you're gonna change the oil, and use a rag to clean all around the drain plug, oil pan, and oil filter, especially where the filter meets the block. If it's not obvious that you just cleaned up oil from where it shouldn't have been, the next part is check those recently cleaned spots again in a day or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still clean you can rule out the most common places oil ever leaks from. It also wouldn't hurt to get yourself a good sized cardboard box, cut it or break it down, and place it directly beneath your engine where you park. If a drop of oil drips on that cardboard you won't be able to miss it, and if it does leak, the position of the drop on the cardboard will indicate where the oil is leaking from. On your next oil change, make sure the gasket on the drain-plug isn't cracked or really dried out, and always keep an eye on your oil levels several times within the first few days of performing any oil change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was informative enough to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T13:08:59.717" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T13:08:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33678" CreationDate="2016-08-02T08:05:44.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness: let me add that even some VW models of the 70-80 and 90s were equipped with circular filters, the Motronic (no carburator but pre mixing of fuel and air) occasionally used them. But on the contrary I own an 1991 semi electronic carburator powered VW Rabbid (Golf) MK 2 which has a square air filter. &#xA;Motronic: Seat IBIZA with VW 1.3L (1993)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgMkp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgMkp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motronic: Seat IBIZA with VW 1.3L (1993)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carburetor:&#xA;PN Engine, electronic carburetor, square air filter, 1.6L, 69hp (1991) &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI2VB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI2VB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PN Engine, electronic carburetor, square air filter, 1.6L, 69hp (1991) &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Images from car sales websites for demonstration purposes only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only post 2 regular links, so here is the third: Carburetor: MH Engine of Rabbid MK1/MK2 (1987), 1,3L/54HP (http://)  i.stack.imgur.com/omEmu.jpg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20275" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T08:05:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T09:46:32.660" Score="-1" ViewCount="2633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Jeep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: Grand Cherokee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: 3.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2005&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: B223D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20279" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T15:41:51.517" Title="How to fix B223D error code for Jeep Grand Cherokee with engine 3.7L of year 2005" Tags="|jeep|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33711" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:29:11.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1A)  You will not do any damage to the car as long as the device(s) AND the fuse you're using do not exceed the capacity of the wire circuit for that fuse position.  Assuming it's the same wire as the '96, the accessories you're attaching are unlikely to exceed the capacity of a wire intended for a defogger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1B)  Any difference in the difficulty in starting is going to vary far more with battery temperature and engine temperature than it will with a relatively insignificant draw from the devices you're adding.  Many vehicles have a relay (BMW calls it an &quot;unloader&quot;) that cuts accessory circuits during starting, but given that you're getting fluctuations (and not a complete shutting off of the devices) during starting, that means that this circuit at minimum does not have an &quot;unloader.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Most likely not -- the designers have likely taken this into consideration.  If you're extremely concerned, you could always turn them off/on manually when you shut down/start the car, which would also alleviate your concern about starting in 1B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T10:29:11.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11081" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:34:11.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is often referred to as B Pillar Vinyl - cause that is what it is... vinyl.&#xA;You can hardly remove it without destroying it, because it is (most likely) glued to the B pillar (had the issue with an Audi) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see amazon for custom made vinyl foils: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=b+pillar+vinyl+jetta&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ab+pillar+vinyl+jetta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=b+pillar+vinyl+jetta&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ab+pillar+vinyl+jetta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20275" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T10:34:11.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:49:58.983" Score="0" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make: Ford&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model: F-150&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine: P1000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2006&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Error codes: 4.6L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20279" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:49:13.457" Title="How to fix error code P1000 for Ford F-150 with engine 4.6L of year 2006" Tags="|ford|f-150|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:05:23.223" Score="1" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, my lights started turning off. I'd come back later and they would work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was the lighting column stalk, so I put in a temporary switch taking over from the stalk in providing an earth. However, they continued switching off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I happened to open the bonnet (at the front) and the headlights switched on (I'd left the light stalk in the on position).  All the lights worked fine but when I closed the bonnet, the headlights' relay clicked the lights off again; I heard the distinctive click. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The under bonnet light switch seems to be the culprit as I the lights went off when I depressed the switch nipple, simulating a closed bonnet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not that good at automotive electronics and can't understand how a switch can cause the lighting relay to switch off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20281" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T14:29:28.640" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T16:11:31.983" Title="Exterior lights turn off" Tags="|electrical|lights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33721" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:06:58.103" Score="3" ViewCount="3964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found what look like Mercedes car keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a black casing and we can barely see the Mercedes logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the key we can see a &quot;Huf&quot; inscription on both sides and a small Mercedes logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the owner will be lucky enough to see this post (kinda hoping this gets indexed fast and he finds it by looking on google!), so, is there something that can be done to find the owner? I've read that it is very difficult due to privacy issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this subject is relevant to this community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20282" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T13:59:46.543" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T13:59:46.543" Title="Found a set of car keys, now what?" Tags="|mercedes-benz|key|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-02T21:06:55.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33720" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:26:38.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ethical options available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave a note/poster nearby stating that you have found a lost key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post on social media that you have found a lost key so word gets around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand in the key to your local Police Station or Lost property&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth having a look around where you found it to see if there are any possible cars that match and knocking on the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many free services around now where you can get a keyring so if ever lost someone can just pop it in a post box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15894" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:26:38.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33719" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:42:27.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the car has an automatic light option like nearly all cars do it really sounds like you're gonna have to replace what they call a headlight switch for some reason in parts stores. It looks like a little receptacle box that a wiring harness plugs directly up to. For some reason that part can effect every light on the car. Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:42:27.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:42:58.613" Score="2" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowledge level: I know little about cars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix the error code P2122 for Ford Mustang car 2014 with engine 3.7L&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20279" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:15:37.857" Title="Fix error code P2122 for Mustang 2014 with engine 3.7L" Tags="|ford|mustang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33720" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:44:17.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot post a comment so in addidion to Terry:&#xA;go to facebook, join a local community (from where you found the key) - something like: buy and sell Philadelphia (no idea if it exists) - post that you found a car key (no too precise description) and ask people to share it in the surrounding area. Hand it to the Lost property or police and include that detail in your post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell police in either way and maybe tell tow and repair services, whoever lost the car key needs to open and tow their car eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20275" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:44:17.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33719" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:45:19.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a ground problem, not a switch problem.  The under-bonnet light and its switch are not the culprits, but a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having a wiring diagram for your vehicle in front of me, I can't tell you anything about the wiring layout.  However, it appears that the under-bonnet light is providing a ground path for the headlight relay in lieu of its proper ground path.  When you press the under-bonnet switch plunger (not &quot;nipple&quot;), you are opening this ground path and the relay goes off.  The same thing should happen if you remove the under-bonnet bonnet bulb itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is find the headlight relay and trace its ground path or look at a wiring diagram to determine the ground path, then correct any broken/intermittent connectors/wires/attachments.  It could be as simple as tightening a ground lug, or as difficult as re-wiring the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:45:19.687" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33718" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:49:13.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Fords a p1000 code is a system not ready code. Meaning the truck hasn't passed all emissions monitors. Drive it some more and the code will go away. The code comes up when the computer is reset or the battery has been disconnected without an external power source for the computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:49:13.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33692" CreationDate="2016-08-02T12:03:34.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're at cross-purposes here and can't have both easy-to-clean and &quot;classy&quot; at the same time.  You've moved upmarket and are not going to have the low maintenance that you get with rubber mats when you have carpet/reed/woven mats.  Similarly, you cannot install carpet in your house and expect to have the same maintenance/upkeep/care schedule/techniques that you use for hard floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not do the mat-on-mat thing you did with your previous car.  Most OE mats have attachments that keep them from shifting around, and adding another mat on top can lead to the top mat shifting and interfering with the pedals.  Besides that, all you're doing is hiding the mats underneath and there's no benefit to keeping them in the car (other than marginally increasing sound deadening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would buy another set of OE mats for your car and use one set as your daily or &quot;bad weather&quot; mats and swap in the nicer, less-worn set when you want the car to look spiffier.  Alternately, you can purchase &quot;bad weather&quot; mats to fit your car and only use them when it's rainy/snowy/muddy or when you go to the beach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T12:03:34.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37279" CreationDate="2016-08-02T12:46:47.223" Score="4" ViewCount="15764" Body="&lt;p&gt;My issue is similar to this question over &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6651/intermittent-no-crank-issues&quot;&gt;here (intermittent crank no start)&lt;/a&gt;. Though my no-start is now definite and no longer intermittent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had no starts about 60% of the time when I try and start my Honda Civic 97 up, especially on cold mornings, but even when the car's warm. &#xA;The main-relay clicks, but no crank. Then I'd use an old butter-knife that I kept in the car to link the negative and positive on the starter and make the starter crank over; if the car's warm, it would startup, otherwise I'd swing the key again and pump the accelerator and it would startup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night however, I started the car up with the key (no butter knife) and the main-relay clicked like crazy (like 20 clicks in that couple seconds), but the car started up. Then when I left McDonalds it clicked like crazy again, but no start. Then when I tried the butterknife on it, it sparked like crazy and the butterknife got hot (I was holding a cloth around it, so I didn't burn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the starter and alternator were overhauled just over a year ago&#xA;Had to kick start it to get home. What do you guys think my problem is?&#xA;Gonna go to the auto-electrician this afternoon, but I don't want to pay a ton for something I don't need and also for next time, or if I can fix it myself, I wan to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Okay, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ20-kjz6i4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; explains my issue exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:52:23.060" Title="no crank, no start issue: main relay clicking like crazy" Tags="|starter|hot-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33728" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:16:58.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention a new battery, they last around 3-5 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the battery cable connections for oxidation and coke buildup. Either of those will limit the amount of power going to the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a terminal brush and a few wrenches and you can clean then yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the copper cables look green and brittle you need new cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20253" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T15:51:54.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T15:51:54.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:19:59.287" Score="3" ViewCount="3338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an overheating problem and I've found that my #1 fan that should be coming on at or about 195 degrees isn't coming on. I've checked the fan motor, it's good, I've checked the fuse and relay and they are good. The #2 fan comes on  with the air conditioner just like it should. I did find that there isn't any power to the # 30 pin on the relay. Are the #1 and #2 fans controlled through the same temperature sensor? I've replaced the temperature sensor also. Any one have an idea what might be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20243" LastEditorUserId="11006" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T16:30:30.977" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:47:02.083" Title="Why wont my #1 fan run on my on 2003 Pontiac Grand Am?" Tags="|fan|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T14:55:24.033" Score="4" ViewCount="1769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give some ideas on why my accent would be running rough? I changed the spark plugs because they were all fouled out and it still runs rough. No code is showing, gas milage sucks. I recently put a new alternator in it, not sure if that has anything to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a 2012 hyundai accent hatchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20290" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T18:04:09.690" Title="2012 hyundai accent runs rough" Tags="|hyundai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33714" CreationDate="2016-08-02T15:39:48.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uncle google just told me that an airbag related sensor (most probably the one that detects if somebody is sitting on the passenger seat) needs calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only can recommend you to take the car to dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T15:41:51.517" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T15:41:51.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T16:32:35.520" Score="4" ViewCount="1529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I just got a 2010 HHR. I drove it for about 3-4 months and the check engine light came on so I figured that it needed an oil change? It ended up turning the light off for about 3 days, then it came back on. Whenever the car is slowing itself down (without me pushing on the breaks), it jerks forward. That doesn't happen often. When I'm at a stop light it does the same thing but much harder. The jerking doesn't happen all the time but the check engin light has been on for about 3 months. I haven't had the money lately to go to the mechanic. Please give me some ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried doing the code at autozone and they say some cap might be loose. It doesn't make since ... If the car is jerking &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20291" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:32:35.520" Title="2010 Chevy HHR jerking" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|lights|scheduled-maintenance|hhr|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33740" CreationDate="2016-08-02T16:54:50.517" Score="4" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some issues reconnecting 1998 Kawasaki GPX fuel system to a Keihin G301 carburetor. Some of the tags that I put on carburetor have fallen off and I lost track of what hose goes where. There are two hoses for coolant and all other are fuel and vacuum. I need schematics or guidance how to reconnect the hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide diagrams or guidance on how I can get my fuel system integrated back into the motorcycle properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can supply more images if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/144298920@N02/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images of the fuel system, gas tank and carburetors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17123" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T19:40:41.533" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:39:21.703" Title="Reconnecting Kawasaki GPX 750 1998 to Keihin G301 carburator" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|kawasaki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33723" CreationDate="2016-08-02T17:50:46.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick google search displayed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c23850_ds739397&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; result. I'm assuming that's you as well? If not, small world! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer provided on that site (shown below) seems to cover it, but I would also check the fuses related to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which should be on the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) itself. I would then make sure there is continuity in the wiring, and use a multi meter to see if the TPS is sending the correct voltage. If you cannot read a voltage from the TPS, replacing the entire assembly as the answer below suggests is probably your best bet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically you need to replace the gas peddle. It is simple to do. The one on my 2011 Chevy Impala cost $75....... P2122 FORD - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'D' Circuit Low - Possible causes - Faulty Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor harness is open or shorted - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - No throttle pedal response P2122 Ford Description The Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor is an input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and used to determine the amount of torque requested by the operator. There are 2 pedal position signals in the sensor. Both signals, APP and APP2, have a positive slope (increasing angle, increasing voltage), but are offset and increase at different rates. The 2 pedal position signals make sure the PCM receives a correct input even if 1 signal has a concern. The PCM determines if a signal is incorrect by calculating where it should be, inferred from the other signals. If a concern is present with one of the circuits the other input is used. There are 2 reference voltage circuits, 2 signal return circuits, and 2 signal circuits (a total of 6 circuits and pins) between the PCM and the APP sensor assembly. The pedal position signal is converted to pedal travel degrees (rotary angle) by the PCM. The software converts these degrees to counts, which is the input to the torque based strategy. The P2122 code sets when The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor 1 is out of self-test range low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T17:50:46.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33752" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:22:34.927" Score="6" ViewCount="27938" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a fuel injected, in-line three cylinder 1.0 litre gasoline engine (specifically X10XE I3 found in Opel Corsa B), what is the most statistically likely cause of the following problem, and what checks (if any) should be performed to investigate the problem further, to narrow the possibilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor performance at low RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal performance at higher RPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;poor performance&quot; I mean there is a &quot;hole&quot; in the power curve of the engine. At wide open throttle starting from low RPM, the engine will at first start to make power, then hesitate and deliver no performance at all. RPM will still build up, until it reaches higher RPM where the performance is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a weak engine by design but the normal curve of it certainly doesn't feel like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no bad engine sounds during idle nor acceleration.&#xA;Idle is fine.&#xA;There is no visible smoke from the engine nor exhaust.&#xA;The ECU has not lit any ECU warning lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The age of the engine is 17 years. It should be noted the engine has been driven at unusually low RPM for these 17 years, if this matters. It probably never saw high RPM and especially not higher RPM and WOT at the same time.&#xA;Driven ~45 000 miles.&#xA;Service schedule followed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No attempts at repair has been made, OBD has not been checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17815" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:23:23.703" Title="Likely cause of poor performance at low RPM but normal at higher RPM?" Tags="|engine|performance|opel|corsa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:18:35.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan of the E10 ethanol-blended fuel (10% ethanol/90% gasoline) that is extremely common here in the US.  I'm no expert, but I've heard and read that it is often damaging when used in either small engines or passenger vehicles. Thus I try to limit my use of it when practical.  I'm aware of two workarounds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy ethanol-free gas at special gas stations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a fuel additive, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-360-performance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stabil 360 Performance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option is quite difficult, and expensive – in my area, E0 costs almost twice as much as E10, and it's only sold at a few out-of-the-way stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the second option is attractive: less expensive, and easy – I can add it to all the E10 I buy, both what I put in my car and what goes in the riding lawn mower and other small engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wonder – what effect does the Stabil ethanol treatment actually have?  Has any research been done to demonstrate that it truly works and reduces long-term issues in both passenger vehicle fuel systems and in small engines?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it does indeed &quot;do something,&quot; does it fully counteract the effects of ethanol in E10, making purchase of E0 completely unnecessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17629" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:24:17.083" Title="Is Stabil ethanol treatment a suitable alternative to ethanol-free gas?" Tags="|fuel-system|gasoline|ethanol|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33737" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:36:27.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple things that could cause this, although I would start with the air metering device.  I'm not familiar with this engine, but if it is electronically controlled then it likely has a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor or a MAF (mass air flow) sensor.  I would test whichever this engine has.  The Map sensor will likely be easier to test then if equipped with a MAF sensor- failing one of these being bad I would look at the timing if it is adjustable. The timing could be retarded slightly causing poor performance at low RPM but regular performance at higher RPM, however usually the idle would be effected by this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20295" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T19:36:27.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33734" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:36:38.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are the various connections based upon your images.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have left the label spelling in the image provided the same as the image.  They match any misspellings in the three images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;I don't know&quot; marked inlet is a vacuum line.  Your petcock has two lines coming off of it.  The smaller one is for vacuum, the larger one is for fuel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I don't know&quot; market inlet is for vacuum.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Main Fuel (Not sure)&quot; is for your main fuel line from your petcock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Reservoir Fuel Supply&quot; is actually a vacuum connector.  The vacuum opens a diaphragm that allows fuel into the carburetors.  This is a safety component in case your float is stuck open so your cylinder doesn't fill with fuel and create a hydro-lock situation which could be catastrophic to your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Main Fuel Suply&quot; is correct and attaches to the carburetor fuel inlet from Image 2&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Vacuum&quot; is incorrect.  It is either a fuel tank vent hose or a drain.  Either way it would connect to a hose that routes to the bottom of the motorcycle behind the engine and before the swing arm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Drain (I think...)&quot; is possibly correct.  As above, it is either a fuel tank breather or an overflow.  One of the two.  It routes the same as described above, behind the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carburetor Parts Explosion&lt;/strong&gt; *&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wo7X3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wo7X3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel Tank Parts Explosion&lt;/strong&gt; *&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDaWb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDaWb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images from Kawasaki via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T20:39:21.703" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:39:21.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33706" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:50:41.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method posted by OP for testing an ALTERNATOR will likely destroy perfectly good parts of you vehicle, not the least of which being the alternator.  This method should never be attempted in a computer controlled vehicle (basically any vehicle after the 70s).  The proper way to test an alternators function is by performing what is known as a &quot;full field&quot; test.  This basically involves bypassing the regulator while the engine is running by jumping the field terminal to ground.  The procedure is different for different vehicles, but when you do this you basically call for 100% power from the alternator.  You can perform this test very briefly without risking damage to anything in the vehicle and test for charging voltage.  Once you have done it enough, you can actually simply jump it with a screwdriver and listen for the alternator to start &quot;singing&quot; (it will whine very distinctly when you perform this test if it's working properly).  The method of checking for a charging voltage at the battery is normally sufficient and a much better idea for the layman, but to perform the test properly you should do a full field test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20295" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T19:50:41.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33738" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:55:34.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot answer as to the &quot;effects&quot; if you're talking about preventing corrosion due to the ethanol, but I can answer as to a performance aspect.  Ethanol-blended fuel exacerbates vapor lock and fuel percolation in my '57 Chevrolet, which is carbureted.  Adding the Stabil treatment does nothing to change that, so I seek out ethanol-free gas, even though it costs significantly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20278" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T19:55:34.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T19:59:06.247" Score="6" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '04 Infiniti G35 6MT coupe, 97k miles, completely stock.  I'd like to install a catch can to help diagnose and possibly reduce some oil consumption (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32372/diagnosing-oil-consumption-on-nissan-vq35de-350z-g35?rq=1&quot;&gt;Previous question&lt;/a&gt; with more details on oil consumption). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm losing 1 qt every 1400 miles.  Never smokes blue or otherwise, runs smooth, pulls strong.  I've tried Mobil1 5w30, Castrol Edge 0w30 and changing the PCV valve.  Oil loss rate has remained steady.  I've ruled out any external leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few ways this or other PCV modifications are done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sealed can between the PCV valve and the vacuum inlet on the manifold.  This theoretically draws most of the nasty stuff out into the can and returns clean-ish vapours to the manifold.  I expect this probably won't have much effect on consumption, but I'll be able to say, &quot;yup, that's where my oil is going.&quot;  The only potential problem I see with this is possibly a slight reduction in the vacuum on PCV (due to it having to travel through the can and additional plumbing), adding more stress to seals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pulling the PCV valve, plumbing it to a vented can intake, and plumbing the other side of the can to the fresh air inlet.  The vacuum inlet on the manifold and fresh air outlet on the intake duct would be capped.  This has reportedly seen some success in greatly reducing oil consumption, but having no vacuum on the PCV and only getting fresh-ish, unmetered air on the inlet seems like a potentially Bad Idea™.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Breather directly on the PCV port (no valve) and cap the vacuum port.  Obviously, no vacuum and possibly changes the metering a bit.  Still seems like an iffy idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is generally the best setup for this?  Are there other possibilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16346" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T14:38:41.270" Title="Options for catch can setup" Tags="|oil|nissan|infiniti|g35|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33673" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:09:14.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After diagnosis it looks like the ignition switch, when it does the no crank I can hold the key in the start position and wobble the key-lock cylinder around and it will crank, its like it does not quite engage the switch when the interior temps get to a certain point, strange issue I have never run into before but think I found the problem or least narrowed it down to the switch or gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Qualified the neutral safety switch by bypassing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is either the ignition switch or the gear mechanism from the back of the lock cylinder to the switch is worn out. Owner says the switch and lock cylinder was replaced 90 days ago but not sure of the quality of the switch. He wants a guarantee the switch will fix it but cannot do that due to the possibility the gears are worn just enough to cause it, would require quite a few hours to disassemble that mechanism to check but does not want to pay hours required, so I cannot guarantee the diagnosis without total disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:09:14.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33743" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:19:37.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catch cans are common on modified turbo engines (they sell kits), what you suggest is the way to do it. Most catch cans have a drain in the bottom so you can drain the can and see how much oil is being pushed through the pvc system over a given amount of engine run time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason to vent it through a pvc valve into the intake is for emissions purposes, you can eliminate the pcv and dump it into a vented can if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T21:18:21.163" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:18:21.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33730" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:33:07.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most GM cars will not turn the cooling fan on until 230 degrees or higher. One fan should come on when the ac compressor is running regardless of engine temp, Most of the time the fan relay has failed, failure can be just a tired relay or the fan is pulling too much current due to being worn out which burns out the relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schematic is same for 4 cylinder or V6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paPMS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paPMS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T20:47:02.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:47:02.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27258" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:37:29.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer for 1/2&quot; but I just bought a 1/2&quot; to 3/8&quot; coupler from Facom and stamped on the side it says &quot;maxi 202 Nm&quot;, which equates to about 150 ft lbs.  I think 150 ft lbs is about the most a 3/8 drive can safely withstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20296" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:37:29.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34803" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:46:04.693" Score="7" ViewCount="15968" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are Diesel engines constructed differently, so that they have a higher stroke volume? (longer stroke, smaller combustion chamber etc.) I know the main differences between Diesel and Gasoline engines(fuel injection - spark plug etc.), but i can't get it in my head why Diesel engines have a higher compression ratio. Is it because they are designed different to have a greater volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's ask my question in a different way: What do you need to change of the parts in the engine to create a certain compression ratio? Which constructional factors do have influence on the compression ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20297" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T18:19:00.260" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T23:37:35.037" Title="Why do Diesel engines have a higher compression ratio than gasoline engines?" Tags="|engine|diesel|car|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33748" CreationDate="2016-08-02T20:48:02.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its the high compression that ignites the diesel fuel, since it does not have spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T20:48:02.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33748" CreationDate="2016-08-02T21:18:08.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very high compression leads to self-ignition of the fuel-air mix. In the case of the Diesel engine this self-ignition is desired and part of the concept. In the case of the Gasoline engine self-ignition is not part of the design and therefor harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some methods to influence the compression ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;varying the width of the head-gasket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;milling piston cavities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grinding out the combustion cavity in the head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A limiting factor for the length/diameter ratio of the cylinder is that the connecting rod touches the cylinder wall when the stroke is too long. This can be prevented when using a crosshead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:18:08.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33738" CreationDate="2016-08-02T21:24:17.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, Stabil simply coats the fuel system to protect against ethanol damage over time. Ethanol free gas eliminates the most damaging element of fuel and is thus the ideal solution. I put ethanol free fuel in all of my small engines that sit for any prolonged period of time and have had zero problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:24:17.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33737" CreationDate="2016-08-02T21:26:40.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before everything else i would check the spark plugs.&#xA;Under certain circumstances a crack in the insulator can cause problems at low rpm's but would be not feel-able with high rpm's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;, and greetings to DucatiKiller:&#xA;Sorry, no explanation for the root cause. However, this comes from personal experience: I had a comparable problem (stuttering engine) at another car. The result was that the insulator of one spark plug was cracked, after changing the plugs the engine was ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to check the spark plugs first because this is the most easy thing to do and a possible root cause. So the work/reward ratio should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the engine cool down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On top of the engine remove the small plastic cover covering the ignition module.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the two inhex bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the cable to the module.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cautiously remove the ignition module, do not lift the module one-sided. It will require a bit of force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the spark plugs (16mm socket).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the spark plugs: Has the insulator visible cracks? Is the color of the insulator uniform or are there any spots visible? Check the color and appearance of the plug, use this site: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NGK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the electrode gap: According to Opel you need 0.9-1.1mm. NGK, however demands 0.8mm. So please take these values with a grain of salt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If necessary replace the plugs: You need 3 x BKR5EK  (NGK) or comparable plugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening torque: 25NM for the spark-plugs, 8NM for the bolts in the ignition module. Torque values are for a cold engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:23:23.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33743" CreationDate="2016-08-02T21:49:20.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgruM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pictures of my setup&lt;/a&gt;. I think I used 24&quot; of high pressure hose total, and my canister happens to sit nicely behind the bracket that holds the PS reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an '06 G35 6sp Sedan (145k miles). I installed a catch can using the first method you listed, by adding it in line with the existing PCV valve&amp;lt;-&gt;intake plenum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your application, I'd say that would be the best method, as a sealed system will give you the best idea how much oil you're losing through the PCV. My reasoning for installing a catch can (besides wanting another project to do) was to keep hot oil out of the intake plenum since I had also installed a modified lower plenum, plenum spacer, aramid gasket, SRI, and copper TB spacer, which made a noticeable difference in plenum temperature. Having again removed the upper plenum after 10k with the catch can, I was pleased to see the plenum was still more or less oil free vs when I took the original plenum out (see picture below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised how much oil I 'caught' after installing the can. I empty it every couple weeks (500-700 miles) and it's usually getting close to full (150 mL), unfortunately that's  nowhere near the half quart (1000ish mL) you're losing every 700 miles, but it'd still be worth looking in to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't changed your spark plugs, crumbling valve cover gaskets that leak into the spark plug wells were a common problem on the 05-06 VQ35DE REV-UP engines, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to at least pull the ignition coils and check them for oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These engines are known to last, so I'd be surprised if it was a head gasket or piston rings, though it's probably also worth checking if your coolant is cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the old lower plenum after 85k miles &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; a catch can. It's not a great photo, but you can see the oil residue in front of and on top of  the runners. When the clean plenum was installed and run 10k &lt;strong&gt;with&lt;/strong&gt; a catch can, it still relatively new (thin film of oil in the vally that's inside the runner in the bottom right of the picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXyyZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXyyZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T14:34:45.563" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T14:34:45.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33748" CreationDate="2016-08-02T22:20:08.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why do Diesel engines have a higher compression ratio than gasoline engines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because compression is used to ignite the air fuel mixture and is described as homogeneous charge compression ignition.  Diesel engines do not use spark plugs and must use compression in order to initiate the combustion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the air and fuel charge is compressed by the piston on it's upstroke. Heat within the cylinder is compressed into a smaller area and the temperature rises due to the heat being compressed into that smaller area.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_compressor#Temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat from compression is described well here.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the temperature of the compressed air fuel ratio reaches the point of ignition &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homogeneous_charge_compression_ignition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homogeneous Charge Compression Ignition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; occurs.  This point of ignition is when the air fuel charge ignites and the release of energy drives the piston back down, this is the unique attribute of the diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T22:20:08.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39507" CreationDate="2016-08-02T22:53:57.890" Score="7" ViewCount="27800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a noob, I admit it. but I did things mostly by the book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had the heads reworked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I scraped the top of the engine block clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I installed the head gasket dry as per the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I didn't follow a bolt pattern for the intake manifold but I tightened them through the course of a few iterations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used dabs of ultra black to hold the manifold gasket in place, as per the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2010-05-06_221703_A1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; bolt pattern for for my 99 Ranger V6 3.0L. I did use anti-sieze compound on the head bolts by mistake but I torqued it to the specs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, at first it wouldn't start so I looked at the oil and it was already mixed with coolant. I figure maybe some of that was left over that didn't get drained out of the engine. So I bled off some oil and sure enough the watery stuff leaked out first and then it turned more oily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I finally got it running. I don't know what did it. I went to the parts store to get some fuel stabilizer and I put that in and it started immediately. Almost too immediately. I don't know if it started because I let it sit or because of the stabilizer. I think it was because I let it sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I let it idle for 10 minutes and it's doing that fine. So I drive it around the block. After I accelerate a little the engine stalls. This happens a few more times. The temperature gauge was reading normal temperatures but I touch various parts of the engine and it's hot, which would explain the stalling and why the head gaskets got warped in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the water pump and thermostat. I was a little concerned about the thermostat because everyone says to put its spring facing the engine but it fit better with the spring facing up. I installed with the spring down (towards the ground/engine) though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I check the oil after all this and it's light brown with a bubble or two. It looks like either my repair didn't fix anything or there was a lot of contaminated oil that never drained out of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think I did things right but don't understand why it's still getting so hot and if/why coolant is still mixing with the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19613" LastEditorUserId="19613" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T15:34:14.633" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T04:56:56.210" Title="Coolant still in oil after head gasket change?" Tags="|ford|head-gasket|ranger|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:23:07.260" Score="1" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wires going to cylinder are broke off like 1 to 2 inches which makes it next to impossible to splice into without them breaking again once I turn the key. Can I take the cylinder apart and replace the wires from the inside. O'Reilly's did sell me an ignition, but the key has no chip. Is it possible to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20300" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T01:27:43.423" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T01:33:15.700" Title="1997 pontiac firebird ignition key lock cylinder problems" Tags="|starting|pontiac|ignition-switch|firebird|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33758" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:33:15.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can use the ignition cylinder you bought, but you'll need to get a key with the correct resistor in it, then cut it to match the key which came from O'Reilly's. To get the correct resistor, just measure the resistance to your original key. This will match what's in the security system. Put the new cylinder in your column, get the new key with the right chip, and you should be golden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 15 resistances for the chip in the VATS system. Here is what they should be. Use a multimeter on the ohm setting to figure out what your car has now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# 1 VATS Key Resistor Value 0.402 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P1&#xA;# 2 VATS Key Resistor Value 0.523 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P2/B82P2&#xA;# 3 VATS Key Resistor Value 0.681 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P3/B82P3&#xA;# 4 VATS Key Resistor Value 0.887 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P4/B82P4&#xA;# 5 VATS Key Resistor Value 1.130 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P5/B82P5&#xA;# 6 VATS Key Resistor Value 1.470 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P6/B82P6&#xA;# 7 VATS Key Resistor Value 1.870 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P7/B82P7&#xA;# 8 VATS Key Resistor Value 2.370 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P8/B82P8&#xA;# 9 VATS Key Resistor Value 3.010 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P9/B82P9&#xA;# 10 VATS Key Resistor Value 3.740 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P10/B82P10&#xA;# 11 VATS Key Resistor Value 4.750 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P11/B82P11&#xA;# 12 VATS Key Resistor Value 6.040 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P12/B82P12&#xA;# 13 VATS Key Resistor Value 7.500 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P13/B82P13&#xA;# 14 VATS Key Resistor Value 9.530 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P14/B82P14&#xA;# 15 VATS Key Resistor Value 11.801 Ohms Key Blank Number B62P15/B82P15&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above was pulled from &lt;a href=&quot;http://automotiveandcommerciallocksmith.blogspot.com/2014/10/vats-system-chart.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T01:33:15.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33764" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:41:55.090" Score="1" ViewCount="2365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered a hole in my intake hose (2001 Honda Prelude SH, ~190k miles), downstream from the filter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ow1ID.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ow1ID.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/546zy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/546zy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a new hose coming and just patched it up with some duct tape in the mean time. I have no idea how long it's been there (could be anywhere from 1 day to 15 years old) or how it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this was allowing a small amount of unfiltered air intake for an unspecified (and possibly long) time, is there any follow-up stuff I should inspect for issues? E.g. should I pull apart the intake manifold and look for any excessive dirt / wear, clogging in hoses anywhere, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T03:32:53.453" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T06:21:15.473" Title="What else should I inspect after repairing hole in intake hose?" Tags="|air-intake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33762" CreationDate="2016-08-03T03:58:41.867" Score="5" ViewCount="11789" Body="&lt;p&gt;A petrol engine can fire the spark plugs slightly earlier or later to account for factors like revolution speed and engine temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However a diesel only fires when the mixture is compressed.  There are no spark plugs to say &quot;burn... &lt;em&gt;NOW&lt;/em&gt;&quot;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that glow plugs are used to pre-heat the top of each diesel cylinder, but they're always warm and can't give an initial ignition to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, How does a diesel engine not suffer from late ignition when cold, or preignition/pinking when hot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a follow-on question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33748/why-do-diesel-engines-have-a-higher-compression-ratio-than-gasoline-engines&quot;&gt;Why do Diesel engines have a higher compression ratio than gasoline engines?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12814" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T04:04:20.357" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T06:17:29.720" Title="Diesel engine timing?" Tags="|ignition|engine-theory|diesel|timing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33761" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:17:48.077" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel engine timing is accomplished through the fuel injectors (they inject fuel at the proper times). Proper timing prevents pre-ignition because there's no fuel in the cylinder yet to ignite. Glow plugs and/or well-designed high pressure injectors ensure the diesel is in a suitable state for combustion and prevent delayed ignition. If the engine is warm enough to start then it's warm enough to run: assuming the injector timing is correct, if the air isn't hot enough to ignite the fuel when it's injected near peak compression, it's not going to become hot enough while it's expanding again; it just wouldn't ignite at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that diesel engines don't compress fuel the whole way through the compression stroke. They compress fresh air and heat it up, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; fuel is injected into the hot air at the proper time, where it ignites (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.animatedengines.com/diesel.html&quot;&gt;animation&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty easy to find all this out though if you Google for how diesel engines work. There's a lot of good animations and stuff out there, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T05:38:29.720" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T05:38:29.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T05:43:07.203" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Eagle Talon. At first I didn't notice that it was running it without coolant because my gauge does not work. While driving, the car turned off. I then noticed that it had no water in it, so I went to the closest store, bought antifreeze and put it in the car, but still the car doesn't want to turn on. What can that possibly mean? Could it be a blown engine? If so, what can I look for in the car to figure out if the engine is blown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20303" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T05:55:11.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T05:55:11.900" Title="1997 Eagle Talon won't start after overheating" Tags="|overheating|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33760" CreationDate="2016-08-03T06:21:15.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to figure the damage from a little bit of unfiltered air, not knowing how long this has been going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;good&quot; news is there is little if anything you can do about it.  Replace that accordion hose (it's a common failure) and change the oil.  Hope for the best.  Whatever extra wear has happened has happened, but I doubt it's much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guys I used to race with ran without any air cleaner.  I always thought this to be insane, but for an engine that gets rebuilt every season, it was probably the least of the abuse the engine suffered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very concerned, do a compression check if you think that will yield more information.  However, bad news after that only points to a rebuild -- no amount of &quot;checking for dirt&quot; will help.  I sincerely doubt you will be able to distinguish between just plain mileage and this common failure.  Replace the hose and be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T06:21:15.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33767" CreationDate="2016-08-03T06:51:11.477" Score="3" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;While inspecting the wires under the hood of my 1995 Camry LE (v6) I noticed that a wire ending at my alternator was loose.  Note that before I disconnected anything, my car would start fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I disconnected this wire, which sits above the power wire on the alternator, and attempted to unscrew a nut that was on a post coming out of the alternator.  In the process of unscrewing, the post broke off with the nut attached to it.  Wow.  So, figuring it was just a ground wire, I attached said wire to the chassis and tried to reconnect the negative battery wire that I had removed prior to this.  It started shooting sparks upon contact and after a while I finally got it on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the key in the ignition lights up my dash, and my overhead lamp works, along with my headlights... But my radio, clock, and lighter had no power.  Tried turning the key to start but I don't even get a click... After a few more tries, the battery died.  No lights nothing now... Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T08:48:31.747" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T09:55:40.303" Title="Why won't my car even crank?" Tags="|battery|alternator|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33765" CreationDate="2016-08-03T09:55:40.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That wire will have been the main power connection from the alternator to the battery it is used for powering the car and charging the battery while the engine is running.  By forcing this onto the chassis you will have shorted out your battery and hopefully you have blown a fuse-able link.  Needless to say, this was very dangerous to do.&#xA;If a fuse-able link hasn't blow, you have hopefully just flattened you battery, but you may even have burned out some wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T09:55:40.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33755" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:22:35.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please consider this answer as &quot;food for thought&quot; and not as a reliable expert advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most difficult part is to differentiate if the oil contamination is from the residual coolant in the not-totally changed oil or if there is still a leak present. You also need to exclude a present overheating problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if there is an overheating problem and eventually correct it.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Steve said: Check the thermostat installing direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a independent temperature sensor on the coolant hose / head to check if the temperature gauge is correct&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the coolant flowing? If not: check for any obstructions or defect on the water pump. Did you used excessive sealing mass when installing the water pump?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air trapped in the coolant circuit? Use all the available bleeding screws/taps of the coolant circuit to bleed the circuit / control for air pockets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the radiator / heater becomes hot?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if there is a problem with the head gasket and eventually correct it. If there is an oil cooler present: Check that first, eventually the head is alright and you can skip the head reinstall. Before you do it: Ask others for a second opinion about it. I personally would reinstall the head, especially if an overheating happened. In case you want to do it: Do as before, just pay attention to the following points:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the engine block surface and head surface is straight. You need a precision knife-straight edge, made of hardened steel. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJtyt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJtyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Check against a light source, if you see light shining between surface and ruler then the surface is not straight. Check the entire surface along the width and length, check also diagonally. Pay attention to not damage the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for any grooves in the engine block / head. Those are normally very small. Pay special attention around the coolant/oil channels and between the cylinders. If in doubt: Put marking fluid on the surface and scrape it away with the precision ruler, the remaining spots would be the grooves. Check in two directions: Along the length and along the width. Pay attention to not damage the surface. Attention: The marking fluid test is overly sensitive, even unrelated grooves will appear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the inside of the combustion chamber, especially in the head for any microscopic cracks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are any grooves, cracks or warped surfaces: Consult with the guy who resurfaced the head. If you suspect that the resurfacing was not done right: Consult with another guy. It is possible the head has not enough clearance for a second skimming, then you will need either an real expert, a new engine-head or new car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the head is down: Inform yourself about bore glacing / piston damages and check for signs. I am sorry but these are out of my knowledge, I can't give you details I just know that these things exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When installing the head: New gasket required, ask the resurface guy about the needed thickness of the head-gasket. Clean out the anti-seize, use new bolts, lubricate them, respect the tightening instructions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Independent of any eventually head re-inspection:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the entire oil, including filter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the coolant is oil-contaminated: Flush it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bleed the coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T14:46:47.680" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T14:46:47.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3525" CreationDate="2016-08-03T13:46:23.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) will tell you everything you need to know. You can check it on this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vin-location.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://vin-location.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The VIN will be visible from the outside on the bottom drivers side of the windshield, and inside on the sticker in the drivers door sill. You may also find trim level information on that same sticker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20310" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T15:03:06.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:03:06.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33773" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:41:32.570" Score="4" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two months ago our MkV Golf was given a major service by a VW dealer and the battery got a good bill of health (tick in the green column).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning it failed to start and after an hour or so top-up from a charger, taking it to Kwik-fit got it diagnosed as having a measured battery EN(A) of 281 vs a rated value of 570. They suggested a replacement...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it have degenerated that far in a couple of months? It was the original battery on an '08 plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20317" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T22:58:45.320" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T22:58:45.320" Title="How much in advance can you spot or diagnose a failing battery?" Tags="|battery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33772" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:42:08.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't unusual to see that an ageing battery works fine one day but fails to start the engine the next day; it's normal for a battery to discharge over time, even when it isn't subjected to electrical loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Bosch Automotive Handbook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Modern batteries using the lead-antimony alloy lose approximately 4-8 % of their charge every month when new. As [the] battery ages, this value can increase by up to 1 % or more each day due to the migration of antimony to the negative plate and other impurities, until a point is reached when the battery finally stops functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T18:42:08.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33772" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:43:31.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A MkV Golf would have had its warranty run out, so the dealer is not going to perform the entire scheduled maintenance/inspection/certification as they would for a car under warranty or going to be resold by them.  This would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visual check of the battery (is it leaking? cracked?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the &quot;magic eye&quot; - the indicator (green, black, yellow) of battery health&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if they saw something obviously wrong (corrosion all over, leaks), non-green in the magic eye they would continue with an actual load test.  The service technician is going to mark the battery as good as he started up the car, heard it started normally without slowness, didn't see any voltage light on the dash, and the above 2 things checked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your battery was nearing 8 years old if the car was sold in 2008.  The lifetime of a battery is generally expected to be 4-5 years. Cold weather, rough conditions, not keeping it charged and low water will all contribute to less battery life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3219" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T18:43:31.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33748" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:27:36.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should be realized here is that diesel and gasoline are two different fuels with different physical and chemical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easier to ignite gasoline than diesel. Light a match and throw it in a puddle of gasoline and it will happily burn at room temperature and pressure. The same isn't true of diesel; it will refuse to ignite. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/b5xhPAundL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video evidence here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because diesel doesn't ignite as readily as gasoline, it requires a higher pressure to self-ignite (assuming both fuels are at the same temperature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical compression ratio for diesel engines is 18-22. Their gasoline counterparts will typically have their CR's lie in the 9-13 interval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T19:27:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33778" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:30:47.407" Score="20" ViewCount="32877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Toyota in which the handbrake wire is broken. I have been using the car for few months now and I don't really want to spend more money on it. I now put the car in park and that is it and I had an argument with a friend on this matter. My questions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do I really have to replace this wire knowing that I use the car to commute and short trips?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;could this affect the brakes of the car and cause it to fail faster than it is supposed to?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;is there a better practice?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19474" LastEditorUserId="19474" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T19:40:07.720" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T15:16:33.777" Title="When the handbrake is not working, is it safe to fully depend on putting car into park instead?" Tags="|brakes|handbrake|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34808" CreationDate="2016-08-03T19:59:10.383" Score="7" ViewCount="30643" Body="&lt;p&gt;These both are cooling mechanisms. One uses oil to cool whereas other uses some kind of water-based coolant. What are advantages and disadvantages of both in both technical and ownership point of view? What to choose while buying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4192" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T13:38:25.107" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T14:11:05.667" Title="Oil Cooled vs Water Cooled" Tags="|oil|coolant|cooling-system|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:01:10.103" Score="32" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, its up to you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is an automatic transmission using park is safe, there is a park pawl in the transmission that mechanically locks the output shaft, actually better than a parking brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slight roll forward (or backward depending on incline direction) is normal for an automatic park pawl, the movement of the car rotates the output shaft slightly to engage the pawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only downside is if you are on a steep grade it might require some effort to take it out of park due to the load on the pawl, but does not hurt anything to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;generic image of park pawl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/crw65.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/crw65.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T13:58:52.980" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T13:58:52.980" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34801" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:11:34.573" Score="6" ViewCount="5462" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Eeek, I see oil in the coolant reservoir of my W12 Touareg.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, engine temps were stable and normal prior to this sudden occurrence. Based on this, my top suspect is not the head gasket, but the oil-cooler, which is a coolant/oil heat exchanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a cheap part, and I expect the dealer to charge a handsome fee for labor, so I'd like to be sure that it is indeed the oil cooler and not something more invasive like a head gasket (&lt;em&gt;shudder&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here is a diagram of the oil circulation system on the W12&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZc5S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iZc5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;W12 Cooling System&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a way for me to diagnose the leak, preferably with the oil cooler in situ?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I feel like I'm clutching at straws with the &quot;&lt;em&gt;in situ&lt;/em&gt;&quot; part of the request)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=oil%20cooler%20leak%20testing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A lot of YouTubers&lt;/a&gt; like to submerge the cooler in water and use compressed air to look for bubbles, but this obviously involves unbolting the oil cooler from its home in the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If extraction is the only option, I can understand that - just that I'm not looking forward to the ordeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T04:00:05.430" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T09:31:10.870" Title="Is it possible to confirm that my oil cooler is leaking (without removing it)?" Tags="|troubleshooting|oil-leak|oil-cooler|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33779" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:35:56.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If those are coolant pipes on the side of it, you could join them together so that they bypass the cooler.  If the leak stops you know that the cooler was causing the problem.  You may also find that oil comes out of the coolant fittings which will also indicate the fault is with the cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T20:35:56.860" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:25:19.313" Score="3" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's car recently started slipping whenever she turns to the right. By slipping, I mean that she will be taking a hard right, then her steering will slip to the left and she has to crank the wheel hard to the right to make up for it. It only happens occasionally, but is very unsafe and needs to be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She took it into Les Schwab today and was told that the steering rack bushings were bad and needed to be replaced. They also said that they could not just change the bushings, but needed to replace the entire rack. I have been misled by Les Schwab before, so I thought I would ask if this is indeed the case. Can the bushings be replaced independently of the rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vehicle is a 2000 Lexus RX300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T21:30:27.597" Title="Steering rack bushing needs to be replaced. Do I need to replace the whole rack?" Tags="|steering|lexus|bushing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33784" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:30:27.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can buy and replace the worn bushings, either from the Dealer, local parts store or performance parts sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.startpage.com/do/search?query=2000+Lexus+RX300.+rack+bushings&amp;amp;cat=web&amp;amp;pl=chrome&amp;amp;language=english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.startpage.com/do/search?query=2000+Lexus+RX300.+rack+bushings&amp;amp;cat=web&amp;amp;pl=chrome&amp;amp;language=english&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T21:30:27.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:38:30.700" Score="6" ViewCount="2082" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a month ago I replaced my catalytic converter, a few weeks later the O2 sensor went out. I replaced that too and I'm still getting a check engine light code for the same sensor. What else should I do? The guy at autozone said to make sure that the O2 sensor is getting power and that it's plugged in and it looks like it's getting power and it's plugged in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update- last two oil changes they've also said that my oil levels are dangerously low.. even though I've been changing the oil on time. Not sure if that's relevant or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20324" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T22:34:52.457" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T06:14:35.593" Title="Replaced catalytic converter, O2 sensor went out, Replaced it and check engine light is still on" Tags="|chevrolet|o2-sensor|impala|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33777" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:42:05.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that by cooling you are referring as to which Engine cooling systems are better in particular scenarios...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil-cooled:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Traditional Oil-cooled engines are most commonly found in passenger commuter motorcycles which are usually anywhere between 50cc to 500cc (some sophisticated models have liquid cooled engines as well).&#xA;The system uses the already present engine oil as a source for cooling the engine. It is generally supported by radiator-type fins (which one can see attached to such engines, typically on a motorcycle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid-cooling:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Most common on passenger cars and motorcycles as well. Include a separate coolant as the basis to reduce engine temperature via a series of Radiator assembly components - grille, pipes, fins and majorly a rotating electric fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Uses of one over another:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A1. Oil-cooled engines have Compact design, since there is no requirement of additional components like radiator-fan assemblies in liquid cooled ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A2. Oil having a higher boiling point, can fight against high temperature evaporation as opposed to coolant (or water cooling the engine in adverse times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A3. Oil doesn't cause rust and acts as an insulator against electric sparks or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A4. Traditionally, oil and air-cooling were preferred in extreme applications like military where there is a possibility of damage to liquid-cooling system components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B1. Liquid-cooling is preferred specially for efficiency since liquids work better than air for heat exchange as per physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B2. Works favorably better for high performance and race-oriented cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B3. Oil may degrade and leave residues overtime and relying only on one source of something is disadvantageous as opposed to having dedicated cooling systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B4. Finally, oil has chances of lighting up if spillage or leakage occurs due to the hot engine temperature and water is readily available in the event your coolant wears/leaks off, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20321" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T21:42:05.630" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:25:11.447" Score="5" ViewCount="7701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a partial overhaul of my 4G63 Mitsubishi L3 van gasoline engine. Since it is an old model engine , i want to replace it with Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel engine oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20326" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T23:45:04.660" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:07:03.907" Title="Can I use 15w-40 Shell Rotella diesel engine oil instead of 15w-30 for my 4G63 Mitsubishi gasoline engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:42:37.960" Score="4" ViewCount="31277" Body="&lt;p&gt;After grounding out my alternator lead battery wire, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/33765/why-wont-my-car-even-crank&quot;&gt;I had to replace the 120 amp fuse&lt;/a&gt; that connects to the alternator. After replacing the fuse the car started up fine but upon driving home and shutting off the vehicle and trying to restart it I found that it didn't crank anymore. I open the hood to find my 120 amp fuse that I had just bought has blown once again. This is obviously a failure in my rewiring the battery lead on the alternator, but for the life of me I can't figure out where I went wrong. My contacts don't ground and I cleaned all surfaces, yet I still blow a fuse every time. Can somebody please help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T08:00:18.083" Title="Why does my ALT fuse keep blowing?" Tags="|battery|alternator|fuse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33755" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:59:46.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem most likely is when you failed to torque the intake manifold correctly (in sequence), you now have a warped intake which is dumping water down into the lifter valley, which goes directly into the oil pan from there. Your intake gaskets have lost integrity. A new set of gaskets and possibly a new intake manifold are going to be in order to solve this. It is probably why you are over heating, as well, due to the fact you have no integrity in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T22:59:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33789" CreationDate="2016-08-03T23:56:41.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this (Rotella) as a racing oil now for years.  It has high detergency, good viscosity range, and also serves as a great &quot;break-in&quot; oil for new chrome rings installed on an older engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a really beautiful thing:  You can get 5 quarts of dino Rotella (usually an entire changeover's worth) in a single jug, and that jug costs about the same as a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; quart of that fancy artisan handmade Mobil 1 synthetic.  You pay even less if you can contend with a 5 gallon pail.  (I cannot... a 5 gallon oil spill for me is tantamount to changing my identity and relocating my business)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory, at least with my race cars, is I'd much rather change my oil 3 times as often, rather than run an expensive full synthetic.  On turbo cars I have made exceptions, as full synthetic doesn't present the same cartridge cokeing risks as the dinosaur juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My never humble opionion; your mil(e)age may very vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading @dlu post that nicely explains the API rating system, as well as some interesting conjecture after that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple search yields: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rotella.shell.com/rotella-products/other-heavy-duty-products/_jcr_content/par/tabbedcontent/tab/textimage.stream/1388527623907/10d7746366627b9f721c8bf67bebef4f1c8c83e30f0ef311138a22647d0e5631/rotella-t3-brochure.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shell Rotella T3 10W-30/15W-40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that both viscosity ranges have &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; CJ-4 &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; SM/SL API ratings (not to mention a slew of European and manufacturer-specific approvals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[I also checked Mobil 1 Delvac for diesels just a few minutes ago.  It also has SM/SL API ratings along with the regular diesel criteria.]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the &quot;SM&quot; and &quot;SL&quot; designations are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; recent &quot;Service&quot; or &quot;Spark&quot; desginations, which means it's &lt;em&gt;perfectly acceptable to use in a petrol engine, unless the OEM specifically says otherwise.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there is something to be considered if 15W-40 is not a viscosity spectrum recommended for your vehicle, but I doubt that.  Besides, there's also a 10W-30, which is more difficult to find, but should fit nicely on most petrol vehicles acceptable vis spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notion that a vetted detergent/additive package from a tribology giant with probably a trillion miles on their formulation, is going to ruin a catalyst, erode spark plugs, make your hair fall out, or contribute to your detumescence is ....  well,  &lt;em&gt;silly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T01:08:17.820" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T01:08:17.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:24:46.340" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm driving through the pastures at my farm early morning or late evening I like to press my emergency brake pedal down for one click and that turns off the running lights but when I go over 5 miles an hour An alarm beeps at me how do I turn that alarm off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20327" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T01:59:53.860" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T01:59:53.860" Title="2013 Toyota Tundra disable emergency brake alarm" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33794" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:54:24.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to do it with the Toyota TechStream software and a J2534 device. Check with a dealer. It doesn't appear as a customization option in the owners manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could tap into the daytime running light system. You'd have to interrupt the power from the DRL relay. It looks like the parking brake switch is always grounded. So you setup a relay that uses the parking brake switch as the relay coil ground, power from the DRL relay as terminal 30 and have terminal 87 as output to the headlights. When the parking brake switch is open the relay coil loses ground and thus the DRLs won't have a path to the headlights while retaining DRL otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other exterior lights just turn the switch to off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T00:54:24.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33794" CreationDate="2016-08-04T00:55:10.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alarm beeps because your vehicle is warning you not to drive with the emergency brake on, and for good reason (excessive brake wear + safety).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn the alarm off you'll lose the alarm in useful situations as well, such as if you leave the brake on when actually driving at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; solutions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't turn the brake on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drive over 5mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn to live with the alarm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate solution is to find a way to turn the running lights off so you dont have to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape something over the lights but don't forget to remove it on real streets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a running light switch (you'll have to consult your vehicle's wiring diagrams and do some work), but this risks making your car not street legal. Definitely don't forget to turn them on again on real streets. I do not recommend this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if you want to turn off the alarm you'll just have to find the alarm buzzer and disconnect it. You'll have to consult your service manual and wiring diagram and do a bit of work. In particular if the buzzer is a functional part of a larger circuit you may have to bypass it (possibly adding something with equivalent resistance) rather than disconnect. But check the wiring diagrams, it may even be as simple as pulling a fuse (although I doubt it) or unplugging an easily accessible connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covering your running lights with some cardboard and duct tape probably involves the least amount of work and risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T00:55:10.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T01:23:12.397" Score="6" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;my 1997 Infiniti J30 had the engine die at a stoplight.  It turns over when I try to start it, but the engine won't start.  The power windows were partly down, and they now won't go up, although the radio, turn signals and headlights seem to work fine.  I tried using the diagnostic mode switch to reset the ECM but no it made no difference so far.  Jumping it does nothing because the battery seems fine.  I checked the fuses for the starter and related things, and they all look fine.  None of the relays under the hood seem melted or bad.  My OBD scanner just says &quot;error&quot; when I try it.  I took it to a mechanic and he claimed I have to update the ECM software for him to diagnose it, and the dealers want $130 to do that. I can't find a replacement ECM for under about $170.  Any ideas what could be wrong or how to fix it?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T15:56:14.637" Title="97 Infiniti J30 died out at stoplight, unknown electrical issue" Tags="|engine|electrical|infiniti|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33794" CreationDate="2016-08-04T01:42:39.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm correct, your root problem is that you don't want the daytime running lights to switch on. Your current solution works, because the DRL's switch off when the handbrake is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to keep the DRL off. One involves cutting a thin grey wire (google it, I'm not going to be responsible for you cutting into your cars wiring!). The other way involves changing the relay out for a different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call your local Toyota Dealer, and ask them for a &quot;Flasher Relay without DRL&quot;. Costs just over $50. You need part number 819800C020, which will replace your current part number 819800C010. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to the relay, you need to take off the driver door (left) sill panel, the kick panel, and the knee bolster. The flasher is on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if your Toyota has headlights which come on automatically at dusk, you'll probably find that that doesn't work any longer. But they still work manually just fine. That's the only side effect (that I know of) caused by swapping out that relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T01:42:39.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34792" CreationDate="2016-08-04T01:56:03.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a few things going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your OBD scanner reports &quot;error&quot;, it's that your ECU isn't&#xA;responding. Maybe your ECU isn't getting power, maybe it's defective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your power windows being stuck suggest an overall electrical glitch in the car. Since the car is almost 20 years old, check to see that there isn't a switch (power window, power lock, etc) that isn't &quot;stuck&quot; and hasn't returned to center (I've seen this in a 96 Intrepid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your battery tested, make sure it's good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean your battery terminals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect all electrical connections, especially to the ECU.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect your engine ground. They get corroded easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a replacement ECU, junkyard is always cheapest option. It will allow you to rule out your ECU being defective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; fuses closely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T01:56:03.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34851" CreationDate="2016-08-04T02:27:26.163" Score="3" ViewCount="3663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus 2.4.  I can't enable cruise control, meaning I cannot turn it on using the switch on the steering wheel. Given that I can't turn it on, I can't set a speed either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: the problem is intermittent; &lt;strong&gt;very rarely&lt;/strong&gt; I can press the on/off switch and the cruise control will turn on. If it does turn on, after 3-5 seconds, it turns back off. Setting a speed does not work 99% of the time. If it does get set, the cruise control will turn off again anyway after a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've checked so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses [All Good]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruise Control Servo [No apparent damage]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical connection to CC servo [No corrosion and not loose]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throttle cable to server [Tension is good and no damage]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will check brake light switch and update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will check CC switch on steering wheel for corrosion and update&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will check clock spring and update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, I'm not sure where to go next. Does anyone have any ideas on how to properly troubleshoot my cruise control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21327" LastEditorDisplayName="user21327" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T23:58:31.383" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T21:55:18.883" Title="Cruise control will not turn on (cannot be enabled nor set)" Tags="|electrical|dodge|electronics|cruise-control|stratus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T06:03:47.287" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nissan N16 car with a 5 speed manual gearbox.&#xA;I have a issue with its shift. When I try to shift into 1st gear,&#xA;it is very hard to put it in - but not in to other gears.&#xA;I have to push harder to shift to 1st. not smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes it works smoothly. I have tried pressing the clutch and different levels but nothing makes any difference.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Why does this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T08:45:04.757" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T08:45:04.757" Title="Shift struck when try to put it in to 1st gear" Tags="|manual-transmission|shifting|gears|gear-stick|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-04T17:27:38.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25434" CreationDate="2016-08-04T06:18:02.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You all forget something, the reason slight leanburn can be hotter than stochiomnetric ratios is very simple. It has to do with the injection of the fuel. For stochiometric ratio to work as intended every single oxygen atom would have to pair up perfectly with a fuel molecule before ignition. That just isn't possible, so you have unburned fuel molecules in your combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding slightly more air to the mix you can ensure that all of your fuel combusts to a higher degree, which in term will raise the temperature of your combustion, add too much and the heat capacity of the excess air will lower the temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21329" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T08:39:58.553" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T08:39:58.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33779" CreationDate="2016-08-04T07:29:36.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the coolant pipes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect two long, transparent, pressure resistant hoses. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the two hoses upward, fill them with (colored?) water and bleed the entire assembly using an external water pump or hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the water level on the tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out the designed cooling system pressure. Now put those two tubes under pressure (compressed air)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it stay overnight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the water level has changed there must be a leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you must adjust it to match your situation, but I am sure you get the idea. However, there is a possibility for a false negative: When the leak only opens when the oil/water is hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T07:45:53.110" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T07:45:53.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33790" CreationDate="2016-08-04T07:44:15.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that I kept blowing my fuse because of the way I had been connecting the wire to the b+ post on the alternator. Due to the small amount of threaded post I had left, I tried to sit the wire directly onto (and through the post) the alternator.  I covered the bare metal under it with rubber to ensure that I wouldn't ground, then screwed a nut and washer ON TOP of the wire, instead of the normal setup which is nut, wire, nut+washer (broken post).  For some reason that setup was sending too much current(?) through the wire and would end up blowing the fuse, which would explain the initial successful start with the blown fuse on the retry.  I ended up sitting the wire on the nut+washer, with the latter acting as a terminal of some sort... Like how the battery wires sit on a terminal and not the actual battery posts, and temporarily strapped the wire to the nut with an elastic band to keep it in contact with the makeshift terminal..&#xA;Success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15111" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T07:44:15.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-04T08:39:18.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A factor no one mentioned might be safety with children. We have a 2005 Rexton which our 2 year old managed to put into reverse with the car off! The car rolled backwards and thank gd was stopped by a boulder before falling off a 2 meter drop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I'm not sure an automatic should be able to be put into gear without at least the key in the ignition, an engaged parking brake would have prevented this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We now park the car only on flat ground, engage the parking brake, and lock the car.)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T08:39:18.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33779" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:03:38.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility as an alternative to @myself's idea is to connect pipes to the oil cooler and then connect them to a vacuum pump.  If you pull a small amount of vacuum and it holds the vacuum overnight then the cooler is probably OK.  This will avoid pushing water into the engine oil.  A vacuum pump with a pressure gauge like one used for air conditioning evacuation would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T09:31:10.870" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T09:31:10.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:28:01.890" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parking_pawl#Recommendations&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, this is not advisable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most vehicle manufacturers and auto mechanics do not recommend using the transmission's parking pawl as the sole means of securing a parked vehicle, instead recommending it should only be engaged after first applying the vehicle's parking brake. Constant use of only the parking pawl, especially when parking on a steep incline, means that driveline components, and transmission internals, are kept constantly under stress, and can cause wear and eventual failure of the parking pawl or transmission linkage. The pawl might also fail or break if the vehicle is pushed with sufficient force, if the parking brake is not firmly engaged. Replacement can be an expensive operation since it not only requires removing the transmission from the vehicle, it's usually the first component to be installed in the gearbox case during a complete overhaul rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be safe, you risk more expensive damage to your vehicle by relying on the parking pawl alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T09:28:01.890" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33748" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:37:48.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are Diesel engines constructed differently, so that they have a higher stroke volume? (longer stroke, smaller combustion chamber etc.) &#xA;  Is it because they are designed different to have a greater volume?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Let's ask my question in a different way: What do you need to change of the parts in the engine to create a certain compression ratio? Which constructional factors do have influence on the compression ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the name implies, the compression &lt;strong&gt;ratio&lt;/strong&gt; is a ratio between volumes of the chamber between bottom dead centre and top dead centre. Increasing the ratio requires changes that are quite fundamental: &lt;strong&gt;longer stroke&lt;/strong&gt; and/or &lt;strong&gt;smaller combustion chamber&lt;/strong&gt;. Another caveat is that in diesels forces exerted on the piston, its rod, crankshaft and shaft bearings are higher so those components are heavier and sturdier. For this reasons, diesels and gasoline engines are designed separately, share no basic components and it's pretty much impossible to convert one to another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common method of increasing compression ratio on existing engine is to skim the head - that is &quot;lower the ceiling&quot; in combustion chamber. This unfortunately makes everything mounted in the head (spark plug and possibly valves) closer to piston when it's in top position, so you have very limited room for skimming before piston starts touching things it's not supposed to touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that shapes of combustion chambers in modern engines are very carefully designed to achieve good flame propagation and even combustion. So while in theory one could design a simple chamber insert just to occupy some volume and therefore increase the compression ratio, it would totally mess up the combustion (not even mentioning the possibility of it getting lose and wrecking the engine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all those &quot;why it's impossible&quot; reasons, here's one thing that can and actually is done: Because compression starts only after all the valves are closed, you can &lt;strong&gt;lower&lt;/strong&gt; the compression by delaying closure of the intake valve. So, in first part of the &quot;compression&quot; stroke, air is expelled back into intake manifold (so no compression actually takes place), then the valve closes and only the remaining part of the stroke actually compresses. This trick is used in so called &quot;Atkinson cycle&quot; engines that achieve better fuel efficiency at cost of lower power, eg in Prius. (The extra efficiency comes from power stroke being longer than compression stroke, not from lowering compression ratio.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: by changing intake valve timing you could lower the compression ratio almost all the way down to 1:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T09:37:48.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33789" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:58:02.363" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a real answer, just food for thought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this oil is designed for heavy vehicles and long maintenance intervals it has a high content on additives (phosphor, sulfur, zinc, whatever). Those additives, in higher concentration, can damage your emission treatment (like catalyst, particle-filter if present). Also the oil is not designed to be compatible with a spark plug, aggressive additives can damage the electrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: in general you should be fine. The more sophisticated your emission treatment system is, the more you should be reluctant to use a heavy duty oil in your gasoline car. Also you should regularly check your spark plugs for damage-signs (use some chart like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ngk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I found out that i oversaw the Api-SM mark on the Shell Rotella: Well, so i have to take the (rightfully received) blame. Also the the API CJ-04 category means that the oil (amongst other things) is compatible with the aftertreatment system if you use a low sulfur fuel. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apicj-4.org/servicecategory_description.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Api on aftertreatment&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Just one general thing about the aftertreatment: The use of the right oil is important for the aftertreatment compatibility (Use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lubrizol tool&lt;/a&gt; and compare for example MB229.5 with MB229.51). However since this an relative old gasoline car is should not apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T09:17:43.747" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T09:17:43.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:59:42.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst leaving a car in Park (auto) or in gear (manual) will prevent the car from rolling away, in the event that the primary braking system fails, you will have no means of stopping the car.  This is of course the other purpose of the handbrake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T09:59:42.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-04T10:32:48.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live in the UK, this will fail your annual MoT test.  (For the benefit of non-Brits, the Ministry of Transport requires a standard annual roadworthiness test for all vehicles.)  Other countries may have similar legislation - YMMV depending on where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T10:32:48.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33777" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:27:45.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil Cooled and Water Cooled are terms used by Manufacturer's to differentiate the slight difference between the cooling systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that this is specific to only motorcycles as almost all of the&#xA;  cars and larger automobiles have moved to Water cooling(Explained&#xA;  below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil cooling:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically , An oil cooled engine is predominantly air cooled with oil cooling assistance, the majority of the heat transfer is through the fins on the cylinder block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil Cooling system is generally used for small capacity motorcycles where the engine oil is circulated via an oil pump into a tiny radiator with a fan and back to the sump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXsut.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXsut.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is an example of a 200CC oil cooled engine.Notice the two tiny tubes connected to a small strip of radiator with a tiny fan at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water Cooling:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this is the most familiar version of engine cooling technology where a mixture of coolant solution is run through the engine on to a Radiator and back to the reservoir. Almost all cars and modern high capacity motorcycles use this technology as this dissipates heat MUCH more efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tri1e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tri1e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is a Water cooled engine where you can see there are two noticeable differences , NO Fins on the cylinder head and a Much Bigger Radiator with massive pipes connecting to the cylinder block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages and Disadvantages:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only instance where a manufacturer will use a Oil/Air cooled tech is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To cut down Manufacturing and selling cost of the motorcycle while providing noticeable cooling since motorcycles under 200 CC are generally commuter motorcycles with relatively low compression ratio thus not requiring bespoke Water cooling because they hardly get hot enough to cause damage to engine.They don't even have temp gauges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low maintenance/Rugged Engine since the oil/air cooled engine requires almost no separate maintenance like regulating coolant level etc and smaller radiator means lesser worrying about debris damaging the radiator.Just change engine oil and oil filter and you are basically good to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to choose between the two?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there will be an option to choose from a Water cooled engine and an Oil/Air cooled option for the same engine.(I am not 100% sure but that just doesn't make sense). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil/Air cooled engines are low cost to buy and maintaine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Almost 0 special maintenance required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water cooling gives you better hear transfer and keeps engine in peak performance all the time but require separate maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil cooling is a term used by manufactures for Oil Assisted Air cooled engines, provides inferior cooling effect but is more than enough for small capacity engines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T14:11:05.667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T14:11:05.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33789" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:37:56.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;official&quot; answer will depend on the oil requirements of the engine and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service classification&lt;/a&gt; claimed by Shell for the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR – match the oil to the spec in the owner's manual. Read carefully to make sure you get all of the details of the required oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look in the owner's manual for the vehicle or in the service manual, you will find a statement something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use oil meeting API Service Classification SF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first letter, 'S', is for &quot;spark&quot; designating spark ignition (gasoline) engines, the second, 'F', is the iteration of the specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the oil container you will find the &quot;API donut.&quot; The upper arc of the donut contains the service rating information since the oil your considering is intended for use in diesel engines it will also include the 'C' rating for compression ignition (diesel) engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as at the letter following the S is the same or later in the alphabet than the oil spec required by the engine maker you should be good – however…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the section in your manual carefully some cars/makers require oils that meet their own specs rather than the &quot;standard&quot; specs. One example is VW. For example, they require that the oil used in their BEW diesel engine meet a spec that they call 505.1 – they don't tell you why, they just say do it. There is speculation that the unit injectors used in the engine require a heavy load on the cam and meeting the oil spec ensures that the oil has the film strength to tolerate that service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The API specs do not say how they are met, just that they are met (you can find full synthetic, full dino, and blended oil that all meet the same spec). I don't think you engine would be one, but some engines, especially those with turbos or extended oil change intervals, require synthetic oils. The intention there, as I understand it, is to ensure that the oil will tolerate the operating conditions imposed by the turbo or long service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1lsTD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1lsTD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T04:22:06.947" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T04:22:06.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-04T14:11:30.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funny, the handbrake was designed as the assistance brake to deal with confusing lack of 3rd leg when starting on a slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using it for parking is not recommended, I've read a lot of warnings, during winter it can easily be broken that way. Everyone recommends parking on a gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go find some steeper slope and test when there's null traffic, if you can stop&amp;amp;start there without problems. Some people have no issues, some will find it hardly possible to start even on a moderate slope without a handbrake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21338" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T14:11:30.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33706" CreationDate="2016-08-04T14:12:05.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've witnessed a very simple lawnmower/tractor run this way (as the battery was dead) - once jump-started, the battery was removed and the basic combined starter/generator continued to run the engine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, by contrast with a generator, the alternator is designed exclusively to recharge the battery. In modern cars, the alternator is actually disabled when the battery is full and the electronics will run from the battery for a while, reducing load on the engine and improving fuel economy. The alternator is therefore not designed to run the engine directly, and running it without a battery to handle burst current draw could fry the regulator. Use a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10890" LastEditorUserId="10890" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T14:17:08.493" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T14:17:08.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T14:57:56.417" Score="4" ViewCount="26089" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a cracked cable connector cause corrosion? or is all corrosion a result of battery leakage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21340" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T23:26:00.933" Title="Corrosion on positive terminal and cable" Tags="|battery|corrosion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:04:20.327" Score="3" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a mind boggle. Need some opinions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good friend of mine has an early 2000's Dodge Intrepid and when he starts the car and puts it in reverse the car starts backing up. When you stop to pull it down  to engage drive and apply throttle it stays in reverse for a few seconds then suddenly decided to allow the transmission to switch into drive and starts pulling forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a maintenance issue with fluid levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some troubleshooting techniques I can employ to discover the root cause of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T19:06:01.170" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T05:13:16.393" Title="Automatic sticks in reverse briefly after shifting from reverse to drive" Tags="|transmission|automatic-transmission|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2016-09-02T17:00:42.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34812" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:40:41.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corrosion is a result of many things, from normal natural processes to contact with leaked chemicals. If anything I'd also say its more likely that the cracked cable connector is the &lt;em&gt;result&lt;/em&gt; of heavy corrosion. And no, corrosion does not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; imply battery leakage, a certain amount of corrosion over time should be expected and chalked off to normal wear and tear. Sulfur in vapors from the battery can certainly accelerate corrosion though. So it's tough to say without more info e.g. pictures, age of the battery and cables, comparison to corrosion of similar parts in other locations, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack itself wouldn't cause corrosion aside from creating a bit more surface area for corrosion to take place on inside the crack, so I suppose it could cause the crack to spread further. However you might want to investigate other underlying causes for the crack. For example, mechanical stress strong enough to crack the connector could have e.g. also been strong enough to crack the battery housing around the post. In other words, the thing that caused the connector to crack &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have also caused the battery to leak which &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have accelerated corrosion. Or any other order of cause and effect. Or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to improve this answer with a better description of corrosion mechanisms when I'm not on my phone, unless somebody beats me to it. In the mean time check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stabiloy.com/NR/rdonlyres/E5F38E54-48BF-43C1-9415-865B903605EE/0/CorrosioninElecApplications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stabiloy.com/NR/rdonlyres/E5F38E54-48BF-43C1-9415-865B903605EE/0/CorrosioninElecApplications.pdf&lt;/a&gt; and also &lt;a href=&quot;http://benignblog.com/2013/05/why-battery-terminals-corrode-causes-composition-cleaning-prevention.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://benignblog.com/2013/05/why-battery-terminals-corrode-causes-composition-cleaning-prevention.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T22:08:13.607" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:08:13.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26857" CreationDate="2016-08-04T16:15:29.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch the vocab here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;strut&lt;/strong&gt; includes the large spring that is attached to the frame&#xA;at one end and the wheel hub assembly at the other end. It's job is&#xA;to allow the wheel to move up and down freely over uneven road&#xA;surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The picture you posted is of a &lt;strong&gt;shock absorber&lt;/strong&gt;. It's job is to quickly slow down the up and down motion in the strut to keep the vehicle stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicles have both as this provides the best ride comfort and vehicle stability while braking, accelerating, cornering, riding over bumps and potholes, as well as vehicle oscillations induced by the road, the air resistance and driver inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock absorbers should return to normal &quot;very soon.&quot; It's not the time that is critical, it's the strength that they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the shock absorber has lost some of it's &quot;charge&quot; (some are filled&#xA;with gas, some are filled with liquid), it will loose some of it's strength to return to it's normal length. If it's completely lost it's charge, it won't return at all. These things develop leaks over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the valve system inside the shock absorber gets clogged or damaged, the absorber will loose some or all of it's strength as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shock absorber loosing it's strength will take longer to return to normal, since there is deliberate internal friction part of the &quot;tuning&quot; of the absorber for the weight and type of vehicle it is attached to and the ride smootheness it is supposed to provide. As you noticed while shooting your video, the new strut was a lot harder to compress than the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T16:15:29.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T17:01:18.763" Score="9" ViewCount="107675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled up at a light the other day next to a kid driving (what I assume to be) his dads 5.0 Mustang. As he proceeded to bounce off the redline and roast away half the clutch when the light turned, I was reminded of an old rumor I came across on a Civic forum years ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rumor was that revving your engine in neutral, when the engine wasn't under load, could cause damage. I believe the reasoning was akin to throwing out your arm because you weren't holding a ball. EDIT: Thanks to Jason C for the info, the prevailing argument seems to be that oil pressure cannot keep up with a free-revving engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like the rumor was BS, but for the life of me I can't think of a reason. So my question is, on a normal street car with a rev limiter and wet sump, can any excess wear occur from revving your engine to redline at full throttle in neutral that wouldn't also happen if you took it to redline in 1st - 6th gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T18:42:09.160" LastActivityDate="2021-06-25T22:40:44.750" Title="Can revving the engine in neutral cause damage?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|damage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34823" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:13:57.640" Score="3" ViewCount="4261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive a manual (2010 Mini Cooper). Sometimes, before I need to put the car in reverse, my car is still moving forward. Granted it's not moving at more than a few mph, but it's not stationary. Is there any danger in putting my car in reverse and starting to back up before the car is completely stopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the same be said about going into 1st? If my car is rolling backwards after reversing, say out of a parking spot, should I stop the car completely before selecting first and accelerating forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any danger in selecting the desired gear (1st or R), but not engaging the clutch until the car is completely stopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20198" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T18:02:00.677" Title="Should I wait for my car to be completely stopped before putting it in reverse?" Tags="|manual-transmission|shifting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:18:33.980" Score="1" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the 5.2 auto in it.. I have tried everything i can possibly think to fix it. It always starts, and drives down the road, but will not idle unless i pull a vaccume line off the plenum.. doesn't matter what line, booster, pcv, or whatever.. Is there anything else it could possible be? here is a list of everything that i have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugs Wires dist cap rotor button dist module iac tps map sensor crank sensor 02's plenum/intake gaskets battery alternator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;basically everything short of the ecu/computer..... Any help is appreciated???? really baffeled!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21344" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T22:29:21.887" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:51:13.317" Title="2000 Dodge ram wont idle!" Tags="|dodge|idle|ram|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34819" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:25:49.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector with engine off (front of thottle body), start it, if it idles now, replace the MAP sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZ1jn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VZ1jn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T22:51:13.317" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:51:13.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34829" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:30:07.427" Score="3" ViewCount="7581" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title says, my car is a '09 Ford Focus SE, with an automatic transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year it started developing a vibration. Between two jobs and school, I just didn't have time to get it looked at. It got progressively worse and worse, to the point that it was hard to hold a conversation because of the noise. It failed inspection and I was informed that two of my engine mounts had gone bad (Right hand mount and anti-torque mount underneath.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the time to replace them myself, and it actually completely fixed the vibration issue. The car was running so smoothly that I couldn't even tell the engine was on - No noise, no vibration, nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the last few months, the vibration has been slowly returning. It's nowhere near as bad as it was last time, but it's probably best to be proactive with maintenance and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible that the left-hand side mount I did not replace is causing the issue?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible/likely the replaced mounts are now damaged and need to be replaced again?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a symptom of an underlying problem? &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if so, what are likely problems, and how difficult are they to fix?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21345" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:19:47.083" Title="2009 Ford Focus SE, Vibration returning after replacing Engine Mount" Tags="|engine|ford|automatic-transmission|vibration|drivetrain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34818" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:30:14.237" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It causes more wear on the clutch as you have to ride it a little more, but overall its fine.  The syncros will likely wear a little faster also as the output shaft will be spinning in the opposite direction.  The bigger the speed difference, the more it wears parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T18:30:14.237" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T20:21:52.237" Score="3" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really hoping someone can help as taken to a mechanics and they keep charging me $$ although they cant find the fault!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My computer system in 2006 Ford Focus doesn't work sometimes ( usually at the most inappropriate time ) so no indicators , wipers the hazards wont work .. everything really. I have found that I have to pull over and re start the car turning the key half way and then fully on usually fixes it but sometimes this doesn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the problems usually occur when the headlights are on and so in the daylight its usually fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experienced similar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any troubleshooting/remediation steps that someone can recommend to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I nail down the source of the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like this car will be the death of me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much in advance.&#xA;Chloe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21350" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T20:33:24.917" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T20:33:24.917" Title="Ignition causing problems with Electrics?? Ford Focus 06" Tags="|electrical|ford|troubleshooting|ignition|computer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34816" CreationDate="2016-08-04T20:55:57.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed mostly a rumor, but with some background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temperature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem is with the cooling. If you rev the car while standing still, the radiator will receive less air, thus it will cool the coolant less efficiently. Usually the fan will force some air to the radiator if the car is not moving fast enough, (like if you are stuck in traffic). This means that the engine will operate in the higher threshold of temperature. The problem will be worsened if the car already has cooling problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unnecessary wear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The secondary is that you are turning the engine and naturally wearing it without moving the car. The engine wears for a combination of factors and one of the most strong of them is the number of revolutions it will do over its lifetime. It is like driving the car for more miles that it actually has in the odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, both factors only offset the engine wear for very little, unless if you keep revving the car for 30 minutes then driving it for 5 miles a day. The car will seem to have a low mileage, but the engine will wear out much earlier than other comparable engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T20:55:57.997" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33787" CreationDate="2016-08-04T20:57:21.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the O2 sensor connector for pin fit and corrosion. You will have (I assume) ignition voltage (it may be 5v) on one heater wire and a pulse width modulated ground on the other heater wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have power and the Emissions 1 fuse isn't blown, voltage drop test the wire to find the break. If the fuse was blown I'd expect more codes than just the p0036 code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have power, check the ground wire. You would want to do this with a digital storage oscilloscope to check the waveform for drop outs. I think you can do this with a digital volt ohm meter as well since it's PWM you would see half the voltage you see on the power wire. Or if you had a known good spec you could try to get a hertz reading on the PWM wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wiring checks out try replacing the O2 sensor again before replacing the pcm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T20:57:21.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33252" CreationDate="2016-08-04T21:09:53.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter if there's gas left in the hose. The only way for all gas to flow out of the hose is for the hose to collapse or air to enter it. It's metered at the pump side but it doesn't matter, because flow out of hose = flow into hose. Also remember that it's pressurized from the pump side (it's actually pressurized from a pump in the underground tank), it doesn't just get like, passively siphoned out of the tank in the ground and into your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flow through the hose stops at the nozzle when you either let go of the handle or liquid covers its &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFKOD3KRkZs&quot;&gt;venturi inlet&lt;/a&gt;. There isn't (ideally) any air in the gas coming through the hose from the pump (actually I don't think there's even &lt;em&gt;allowed&lt;/em&gt; to be air for it to pass weights &amp;amp; measures certification, but don't quote me on that: here's the measurement design system guide &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/296219/UK-2780-revision-3.pdf&quot;&gt;for the UK, at least&lt;/a&gt; which you are welcome to study).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; gas that comes out the nozzle must create suction in the hose which pulls more gas into the hose and more through the meter (and probably won't pull any gas through at all if the dispenser's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kendrickoil.com/how-to-repair-a-gas-station-pump/&quot;&gt;check / flow control valves&lt;/a&gt; are shut off), so the hose won't empty. Also, &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; gas that goes into the hose from the pump pushes gas out the end of the hose (should take &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.precisionflow.co.uk/speed_of__sound.htm&quot;&gt;about 2 ms&lt;/a&gt; for a pressure change at one end of an 8' hose to be reflected on the other, if you are curious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what comes out of the nozzle is precisely metered, and what's left in the hose comes out when the next person pumps gas, and is also metered. There is no reason at all to make sure the hose is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lifting up the hose when you're done doesn't really get much gas, and it only comes out of the nozzle not the hose. With the handle off (nozzle closed) the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; extra gas you're getting out of it is those last few drops left in the end of the nozzle downstream of the nozzle's venturi gate (which is near the handle), because the nozzle is sealed off from the hose at this point. The 0.1L figure in the other answer seems reasonable if you picture the volume of the nozzle. That's about 0.026 gal = about 7.2 cents worth of gas (according to current average gas price in Hawaii, US's most expensive gas state). For a 12 gal fill-up you save about %0.22 of your money, but a penny saved is a penny earned, I guess. And any added value of lifting up the hose this way assumes that the gas left in the downward pointing nozzle didn't already drip out into your tank anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T04:45:22.003" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T04:45:22.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34841" CreationDate="2016-08-04T21:12:24.450" Score="3" ViewCount="2864" Body="&lt;p&gt;A part on my recently purchased suspension called for a 10mm allen wrench in the instructions. Despite the allen key seeming to be too small, I tried it anyways and of course sheared the inside of the bolt (hopefully not so bad as to be unusable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I purchased an 11mm allen wrench, this is too large and won't in fact fit in the bolt at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt is integrated into the suspension and cannot be replaced. I am totally baffled, is the part simply defective? What other size options might I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To hopefully address some of the comments below. The car is a 2008 mazdaspeed3. The part is a spring perch for the rear springs on an aftermarket coilover setup. The bolt itself allows the perch to be raised or lowered - raising or lowering the car. One solution to this is to literally dismantle everything (in which case the adjustment can be done by hand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I uploaded a video that will helpfully clarify the situation. (photos really didn't illustrate the issue well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZafXGs5UK2A&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video of the problem&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry for the crappy video, I was filming with an iphone under a car with about 6&quot; of clearance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17630" LastEditorUserId="17630" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T22:21:37.020" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T22:21:37.020" Title="10mm allen wrench is too small 11mm is too big" Tags="|mazda|suspension|tools|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34822" CreationDate="2016-08-04T22:10:49.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a TSB on this issue and a shield to preven rocks from interfering with mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jti0u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jti0u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7JgZ2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7JgZ2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2rrI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2rrI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KfvI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KfvI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T22:19:47.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:19:47.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34833" CreationDate="2016-08-04T23:01:57.160" Score="4" ViewCount="237718" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is similar:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/11315/617&quot;&gt;What does a water like drop coming out of the exhaust of the car signify?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it sounds like the water should be in small amounts, and only when the car has not been driving long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even on a warm day, my car will drip a large amount of water from the exhaust pipes, even after driving for 15, 30 minutes or more. (I just got it recently so I haven't driven it longer than that). By a large amount I mean that all the way up my driveway there are large drops every few inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still nothing to worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in a 2002 Saab 9-5 Turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T16:15:38.987" Title="Excessive water dripping from exhaust" Tags="|exhaust|leak|saab|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34830" CreationDate="2016-08-04T23:07:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is truly water then no problem but if it is antifreeze, you have a problem, Vehicles driven on short runs consistently will do this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T23:07:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34830" CreationDate="2016-08-04T23:41:12.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to figure out what the liquid is. When the exhaust is cold water vapor in the exhaust (a normal byproduct of combustion) can condense before it gets out and it will drip. That's normal and it should stop once the exhaust system is hot enough that the water vapor no longer condenses. I would think that 15 minutes of driving would be ample to heat the exhaust to the point where it would no longer condense – unless you live someplace quite cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibilities aren't so good. If the liquid is coolant that means you've got a leak in the cooling system that is somehow finding its way into the exhaust. I suppose it could be another liquid as well, so it would be worth trying to catch some of those drips and identifying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know this, but I would expect that a well designed exhaust system wouldn't accumulate too much condensate. But I suppose one possibility on short drives is that condensate is pooling in the exhaust someplace and, assuming that your driveway is really &quot;up&quot; perhaps it is draining accumulated water. You might try letting the car idle and watching to see if any drops come out (catch them on some clean white paper towel if you can).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T23:41:12.267" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34830" CreationDate="2016-08-04T23:48:36.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;if water coming out from exhaust pipe during start up , it is normal. however, if it continuously dripping after several or during running, then check the cylinder head gasket for damage. take note, while water is dripping , white smoke is also noticed if head gasket is damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20326" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T23:48:36.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-05T01:28:16.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to pretend for this answer that putting it in part does not imply an automatic transmission [because automatic transmission is well covered].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a manual transmission this is safe for reasonably level ground. Engine compression alone will hold indefinitely for a considerable amount of force. A hill of more than about two degrees is too much however. If you worry about it, block a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15158" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T01:28:16.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33586" CreationDate="2016-08-05T04:06:10.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a watercraft Mikuni guy, but I've dealt with a few two-stroke carbs that work in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The internal filter screen is clogged, but I'm discounting this as it's just rebuilt, and I doubt that would cause the primer bulb effect anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fuel return is dirty or blocked.  Verify with it running (after an ether bunny start) that fuel is returning from the return port.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's something out of order with the pump plate, either the internal poppet valves, or the pulse metering system.  Are you certain the primer bulb isn't overpressurizing the pulse area?   I probably dont't have the right terms here...  I'm referring to an issue somewhere between #20 and #21 on the following diagram (&lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; #21 with poppet &quot;check&quot; valves):&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sr2X4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sr2X4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mikuni SBN Exploded Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a cross-ection that I found, which gives a clear view of the operation.  If the fuel return is working properly, it seems nearly impossible to pressurize this area or &quot;overprime&quot; it, as excess fuel would simply return.  Unless, of course the pulse area above the inlet is causing a problem with the valves.  It might even be possible that the rebuild installed the pulse check valves upsidedown, the wrong direction, etc.  Even more likely there's &lt;em&gt;too much restriction&lt;/em&gt; in the fuel return &quot;restiction&quot;. Here's the diagram which to me at least, gives a good clarification of the operation  (from the Mikuni SBN technical manual):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIv0q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BIv0q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mikuni SBN Cross-Section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.  Best troubleshooting I can do from my laptop on my first gin and tonic.  Check the return flow first, and verify that flows.  Easy.  Luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T04:16:13.150" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T04:16:13.150" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2016-08-05T04:24:09.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) First buy a new one, no trick is fool proof. If you are successful you have a spare. If not, you can still ride and wait for the next bender.&#xA;2) Rub  the area of the bend with a wet piece of soap.&#xA;3) Heat the lever on a gas burner until the soap is shiny dark brown/ black.  This is to soften the duraluminium. (or duralumin if you say so)&#xA;4) Throw it in a bucket of cold water.&#xA;5) Use a plastic, or hard rubber hammer on a trunk of wood or a block of lead to straighten it back in shape. Or bend it back in a vice. Or both.&#xA;6) The hardness will return after some days but the soft lever is strong enough to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bent one lever 3 times back to the original shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21358" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T04:24:09.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34828" CreationDate="2016-08-05T04:43:51.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grind a taper on a cheap Craftsman 11mm, hammer it &lt;em&gt;tight&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[secrettext] Return it to Sears for exchange when done. [/secrettext]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where, what and who is this vehicle and fastener??  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T04:43:51.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34878" CreationDate="2016-08-05T07:57:13.047" Score="2" ViewCount="10486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a toyota vios 2003. When I accelerate my car(when driving at certain speed say 20km/h it accelerates lets say up to 60km/h but when I take my foot off from acceleration paddle rpm drops very quickly(~1000 which is normally the rpm when idle) and feels loosing the speed abruptly. I remember this was not like before. I recently replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure pump.  Is this normal or indicates a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21359" LastEditorUserId="21359" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T18:14:51.177" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T05:25:24.520" Title="rpm in my car drops very quickly to idle when I foot off accelaration peddle" Tags="|toyota|vios|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T08:32:05.933" Score="2" ViewCount="44018" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cars RPM drops when I switch on the AC. So I need to keep pressing the acceleration pad when at rest. Its fine when I'm driving the car its alright but when I get stuck in some traffic I got to turn off the AC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its so hot in summer, if some one provide an useful solution it would be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a Lancer evo VIII &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21361" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T16:10:07.287" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T13:36:37.690" Title="Car stalls in idle with AC on" Tags="|ac|rpm|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T09:42:11.323" Score="1" ViewCount="44796" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanic told me that stock CDI has a limit after certain speed but the local one has none hence increase in speed. While searching for that I came across this keyword of Racing CDI and become curious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T00:39:31.580" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T21:03:57.233" Title="What is difference between stock CDI and racing CDI in a 4 stroke motorcycle?" Tags="|four-stroke|cdi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T10:28:11.137" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My golf cuts out when I switch on the head lights but it doesn't die. It will cut and all the dash lights will go but it will coast start again and go. This only happens sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tap the brake, the lights will dim or I will hear a distortion on the radio. Even when I put an indicator on, the main lights will flick too. This happens now more often but still doesn't continuously happen. Once it cut out and wouldn't get power for almost an hour. I had to jump start it with another car before the main power relay kicked in and I had power on the cluster again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21364" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T09:18:46.683" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T09:18:46.683" Title="What could cause 1996 Volkswagen Golf Chico loss of electrical power?" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6988" CreationDate="2016-08-05T10:35:50.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you have to consider that the sump is under slight pressure.&#xA;Ever heard of oil pressure?&#xA;Hot liquids expand to, this is why there is a recommendation with each vehicle to only put so much oil in the engine as it can blow out the oil seals, if it can blow out an oil seal there is a possibility it can blow out an oil plug if it is not fitted properly i.e. just jammed in placed, or if it is overfilled by slightly to much oil.&#xA;I would demand a new sump be fitted with a new standard sized drain plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21365" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T10:35:50.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34845" CreationDate="2016-08-05T10:43:59.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check that the battery is fully charged.  It may be early signs of a failing battery or that alternator may not be providing sufficient charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T10:43:59.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:31:27.027" Score="2" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LS that needed new lower ball joints. I have had a very difficult time removing the steering knuckle from the ball joint. I tried penetrating lubricant, hitting it with a 3-lb sledge while jacking up the ball joint bolt, and even tried heating the knuckle. It is on there nice and tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried hitting different places on the knuckle, and in the process I hit the area above the hole where the bolt for the brake caliper bracket goes. I deformed the hole just enough that the bolt won't go through anymore. Is this something I can just drill out or have I compromised things enough that I should just buy a new steering knuckle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkATe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkATe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lower Caliper Bracket Mounting Hole deformed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN7G0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sN7G0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The bolt only goes this far&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In the second picture, you can see the caliper bracket mounting bolt only goes through until the threads hit at the very end. I don't think it would take much to drill it out to fit the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new Dorman from Amazon is $105, and a used one from the local junkyard is $85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21368" LastEditorUserId="21368" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T14:29:02.160" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T17:01:19.613" Title="Repair or replace steering knuckle?" Tags="|suspension|steering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34848" CreationDate="2016-08-05T13:37:18.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a new or used knuckle to replace that one, I would not trust the damaged caliper mounting hole any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T13:37:18.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T14:00:06.183" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first post on this site. It looks good and the site has a good feel to it so I have some high hopes!&#xA;So, I have a 2005 OPEL corsa 3 cyl. and one day it just stopped. I will not bore you with ALL the things I have tried so far - but here is where I am right now : The engine turns over, there is a spark, the camshaft rotates and - get this - when I spray some easy start into the air intake it doesn't even cough !&#xA;Am I missing something here - spark + fuel must result in something. I can only conclude that the cam position sensor is giving the wrong timing signal to the ECU.  Can anyone else confirm my suspicion?&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21370" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T08:21:36.670" Title="engine will not start - suspect immobiliser" Tags="|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34795" CreationDate="2016-08-05T14:21:29.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the brake pedal cancel switch, it may be an integral part of the brake switch but has its own electrical contacts. If it is stuck in the open position this will cause cruise to not engage. You can check this with an ohm meter, pins 3 and 4 (first diagram) should have continuity with the brake pedal at rest, lose continuity when you depress the brake, do this with key off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9hkmo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9hkmo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And possibly the cruise switch on the steering wheel column has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kguaj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kguaj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the clock spring has failed (behind the steering wheel, this connects all electrical switches on the wheel to the harness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sV94R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sV94R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T14:32:24.270" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T14:32:24.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34848" CreationDate="2016-08-05T14:40:05.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With $20 difference to a new one, I'd go new. No hassle getting it off, or having a second-hand one delivered and finding it's covered in rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T14:40:05.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1924" CreationDate="2016-08-05T14:50:55.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think changing gear oil is one of the most overlooked maintenance items. People may attention to motor oil, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid if they have it, because late model cars have electric power steering without fluid. Anyway, I am planning on taking some Lucas 80W-90 gear oil and going to my mechanic to have him drain and fill my transfer case and rear diff. I have a crossover and my manual states 1 quart of 80w90 hypoid gear oil in the transfer case and the same in the rear diff. I will take 3 1-quart bottles of gear lube to my mechanic so he can flush out both with some gear oil to get the old stuff out, my car has 126k miles and probably those are factory fluids so I think they are very worn and need a change asap. Hoping the rear diff doesn't have any limited slip problems with the lucas gear oil. I got some CRC gear oil additive just in case there is an issue. looking forward to better mpg as well as the gears have fresh lubricant to help my car run more smoothly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on point, the lucas gear oil indicates it exceeds GL-5 standards and has limited slip additives. Most amazon reviews are positive, in fact, they are overwhelmingly positive. Since my manual states hypoid gear oil in both T-case and R-diff, I shouldn't worry, but I still do from some of the stories I read of people with Tacomas or 4-Runners that do a Drain and fill and find their rear diffs make noises without the LS additive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18975" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T14:50:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34848" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:16:35.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely replace it with a new one.&#xA;There is no way of telling if there are no microscopic cracks / other damages weakening the area around the hole.&#xA;You also do not know what happened to the one from the junkyard during its lifetime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that, in general, taking shortcuts on the suspension is too risky. Should the ball joint / steering knuckle / caliper bracket fail it would be a major disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: The install of the new ball joint would be hassle-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="6771" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T17:01:19.613" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T17:01:19.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34828" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:39:58.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sentence about the non-replaceable 10mm allen key - bolt made me my head scratching: Could it be that the &quot;bolt&quot; would be the &quot;counterhold&quot; on the top of the shock absorbers? .&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1zxk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1zxk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;That being the case: Then you do not need to screw it out, you just need to hold it while turning the nut on top of the shock absorbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems strange to me that in the manual they are asking for a 10mm allen key and that one seems to small. Well, it happened to me once that a brand new torx wrench had not the right size. Either this happened to you or the bolt was produced with faulty tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway: The head is now rounded.. I would suggest you to use either a matching torx or (better) triple-square bit and hammer it firmly in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T21:01:54.907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T21:01:54.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T15:54:16.223" Score="4" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday at night i was coming home and passed through some water (probably some broken pipe), and the car started to intermittently being on/off (electric part failure). It worked for about 1 kilometer until it completely died (luckily at my door).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately recognized the problem, as in some hard rainy days it happened to me twice the car completely die. But it would be a matter of half an hour or something until it works again. Now has passed 15+ hours, and it's not turning on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, which connections should i check and blow to remove water? It's a 1998 VW Polo 1.0cc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21372" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T14:47:11.100" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T14:47:11.100" Title="Car won't start hours after passing over water" Tags="|electrical|vw|intermittent-problems|polo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34843" CreationDate="2016-08-05T16:27:57.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have either &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/24047/7132&quot;&gt;a clogged or stuck IAC valve&lt;/a&gt;.  Try opening the idle air screw a bit ( say one or one and a half turns ) and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, it could also be something like the bearings on the compressor seizing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T16:27:57.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T17:27:52.403" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mazda rx8 , 2004&#xA;13b&#xA;Manual Transmission&#xA;6 speed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21355" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T21:00:17.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T21:00:17.313" Title="The car engages gears but does not move and when i depress the clutch it also sounds like grinding metal" Tags="|mazda|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9056" CreationDate="2016-08-05T18:02:19.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing oil every 3000 miles made sense in the mid 20th century. Car engines and oils have improved a lot since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hondas built before just before oil monitor were added to dashboards had owner's manuals, and recommendations for engine oil changes every 10000 miles or at least once per year.  This was based on not routinely driving through mountains, on dusty roads, in bumper to bumper traffic or pulling a trailer. Doing these things Honda called Severe Use, and recommended 5000 mile changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on 160,000 miles experience with Hondas of the same model,one new without the Maintenance Minder, the second one used with 80,000 miles on it.  I say that the Oil Life Monitor is reliable. Follow it unless a dipstick test comes out gummy, milky or gritty or surprisingly low at a gas fill-up check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your maintenance dollars into high quality synthetic oil and a top level filter rather than more frequently changing a cheaper conventional oil and filter (Jiffy Lube). Even if you have your Honda dealer do this,your wallet and engine will be happier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw, I've never had to add oil between my 10,000 mile/annual synthetic oil changes. It still looks amber at 5000 miles/6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: With my use changing to shorter trips and less frequent,once I passed 100,000 miles, the oil now gets sootier faster.  It will be interesting to see if that changes after the 110,000 mile plug replacement and valve adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21375" LastEditorUserId="21375" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T15:48:16.987" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T15:48:16.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34868" CreationDate="2016-08-05T18:29:15.257" Score="4" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now its my turn..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volvo 2.0 diesel Siemens VDO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When car gets warm, in 4th - 6th gear, the car starts shaking between 1800 - 2200 rpm, no warning lights. Diagnostics show that the fuel pressure drops and goes up again all time. It happens only at stable ride, when you accelerate harder or release the gas pedal, the condition disappears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;injectors, works good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced fuel pressure regulator, still nothing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 1st to 3rd gear, no shakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I replace the fuel volume regulator or even the fuel pump? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be air in the fuel line? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be a DPF filter regeneration bug? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea....thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21377" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T19:01:06.283" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T22:02:57.250" Title="Diesel, fuel pressure drops at speed" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|pressure|shaking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34861" CreationDate="2016-08-05T18:35:31.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;maybe there is some gunk in one of the diesel strainers/filters between the tank and the injection pump. (on my car, there are three such devices.) One of them being obstructed, even if intermittently, could negatively affect fuel pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T18:35:31.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22883" CreationDate="2016-08-05T19:38:41.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is in reality two different questions: how to learn mechanic and how to get a job as mechanic. To learn, you are probably in the right direction. The most important thing is to be really curious and try to learn stuff on your own. Try to understand every little part of different cars and why they are there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to get a job, it's easier if you go to a tech school first. I found my school at &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechaniccareernow.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mechanic Career Now&lt;/a&gt; and I'm happy with it. Got a job 1 month after graduating last year. It's also good that in school you can talk to people about the things you are learning and learn from more experienced mechanics. I know it's much more fun to just learn by doing, but there are so many variations in different cars, that at least for me it was good to go through stuff in a more structured way at school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21380" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T19:38:41.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34843" CreationDate="2016-08-05T20:00:24.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;clean throttle body most likely it is full of carbon, and removed the idle control valve clean with fuel system cleaner buy it at any parts store :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21381" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T20:00:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34869" CreationDate="2016-08-05T20:36:42.063" Score="0" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried a lot but I couldn't get a clue, this is the only picture I could get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller mentioned it was a 60's &quot;dihatsu&quot;, but I couldn't get to be sure.&#xA;Also I need help with its body tuning ideas, and how easy would it be to get it to look like a 70's ford mustang ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgaYe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgaYe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;car&amp;#39;s only available picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21383" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T23:25:23.667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T23:25:23.667" Title="Help with unknown car name" Tags="|vehicle-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33776" CreationDate="2016-08-05T21:17:12.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the event of a brake master cylinder failure, the parking brake (or EMERGENCY brake) will still cause the brakes to grip, while the brake pedal might go right to the floor. This means that if you don't have a working e-brake, you risk potentially losing braking ability if something goes wrong. Most modern cars have two brake cylinders so that if one fails, the other will allow you to stop (one for each side of the car usually). However, older cars typically have only one brake cylinder, and if this goes or if you have an issue with your brake lines, the e-brake is there to save your ass!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21386" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T21:17:12.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34861" CreationDate="2016-08-05T21:33:44.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The volume regulator at the high pressure pump would surely be a good candidate for the mentioned symptoms. Normally the volume regulator seems normal when accelerating (because he is mostly open, so there is a buffer on pressure incase of a sudden load increase), when releasing the gas pedal you also wont feel it since the thrust of the car keep the engine in motion. Mostly on stable riding any eventually problems regarding the regulation speed will arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the car behave while idling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The background on the volume regulator : A high pressure pump must provide enough throughput with matching pressure while the engine is under 100% load. That demands a high amount of energy. When the engine is not under full load most of the pressurised fuel will get feed back to the low pressure part through the pressure regulator. However this is a waste of energy so it is a good idea to regulate the throughput of the pump while the engine is at lower load. That happens with the volume regulator that cuts back the amount of fuel getting in the high pressure part of the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my replaced volume regulator,  please note the slight fretting marks on the part in the center.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ewy4o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ewy4o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Those marks where enough to cause a disturbed idling and engine stopping when accelerating after longer descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T22:02:57.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T22:02:57.250" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34866" CreationDate="2016-08-05T21:58:48.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at images, if I had to guess, I'd suggest you are looking at a 1974-ish 120Y (or B210 in the States) coupe. The one in this picture is from Australia, or at least that's what it says on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Sunny#Export_markets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZoHt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZoHt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T21:58:48.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T22:03:47.893" Score="5" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 2013 Corolla LE (automatic transmission). I am noticing that the car starts rumbling at 2700 RPM and stops rumbling at 3000 RPM (maximum rumbling at 2800 RPM) when speeding up and the same when slowing down. Since the car comes with a 1 month drive-train warranty, I took it to the dealership and the service manager (to whom I reproduced the problem) indicated that it may be an issue with the harmonics. The technician notes &quot;...notice induction sound during 2000-3000 RPM. Checked all intake ducting and clamps. Checked all engine and transmission mounts. All items are in good condition. Could not duplicate customer's concerns at this time.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is, the vibration is becoming bad and I am afraid it might cost a lot to fix when the 1 month warranty is over (in 10 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any pointers on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to reproduce the problem more consistently (since the technician &quot;Could not duplicate&quot; the issue).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other likely sources of the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17441/engine-sound-rumbles-grumble-noise-800-1300-rpm&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; discuss a similar issue and suggests mounts as the primary cause. From my technician's notes, it appears the mounts are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: There is no rumbling when the engine is revved to 3000 RPMs and transmission is set to park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21387" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T03:09:51.177" Title="Corolla rumbles at 2800 RPMs but not higher" Tags="|toyota|corolla|vibration|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34866" CreationDate="2016-08-05T23:50:55.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest I can find is a 1973 Toyota Liftback 2000 GT. But I don't think it is. Maybe there are other manufacturers around the same time building similar cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GICrh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GICrh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T23:50:55.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34873" CreationDate="2016-08-06T00:47:54.520" Score="8" ViewCount="2235" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the intake hose for a 2001 Honda Prelude SH there is this U shaped tube with one closed end (sorry about blurry shot):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCrzj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCrzj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmnAn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmnAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The tiny thing sticking up on the top left isn't a tube it's just a solid structural support piece.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part is only identified as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hondapartsguys.com/honda/prelude/17281p13000/2001-year/typesh-trim/5-speed-manual-engine/electrical-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/air-cleaner-scat/?part_name=tube-side-branch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;TUBE, SIDE BRANCH&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. It's also discontinued for some reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poPkq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poPkq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this tube do, exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clarification from comments; here is where the throttle / MAP sensor / intake manifold is in relation to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGWVT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGWVT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T15:30:59.187" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T16:58:28.897" Title="What is this U shaped tube sticking off the intake hose?" Tags="|honda|part-identification|air-intake|prelude|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34872" CreationDate="2016-08-06T01:31:51.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a silencer. It's used on the intake tract to deaden the noise of the air as it goes through the intake. It usually isn't needed, but if taken off, you'll need to ensure the hole is completely plugged. If you don't, unfiltered air will enter your intake and cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on the phenomena of how the silencer (resonator) does it's thing, &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/q/272914/126550&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; was asked on Physics.SE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:12.747" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T16:58:28.897" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4002" CreationDate="2016-08-06T02:31:23.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my cylinder head on 2003 beetle TDI ALH. you can clean the egr all you want, but won't be able to touch the intake ports on the head. Minimizing the egr is a must or mileage will suffer as well as pollutants which result form an inefficient engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21391" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T02:31:23.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T06:47:42.713" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to remove the fuel pump fuse on a Hyundai i30 CRDi diesel and then try to start the engine, would I need to bleed the fuel line or would it be okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21393" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T17:58:49.147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T17:58:49.147" Title="Removing fuel pump fuse on diesel engine" Tags="|fuel-system|diesel|fuse|pump|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:31:47.690" Score="5" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has just started in the past few days. About 90 seconds after I turn off the engine, it will start emitting what sounds like an almost perfect sine wave at a little over 1kHz. It lasts for another 90 seconds or so, and then quickly fades out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Audio here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://db.tt/KKJ4IFls&quot;&gt;https://db.tt/KKJ4IFls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it doesn't last long, I haven't yet been able to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, but it seems to be from the engine compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can hear in the audio, it continued even when I took the key fully out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3355" LastEditorUserId="3355" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T08:38:24.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T23:57:05.390" Title="Why has my RAV4 started whistling after I turn off the engine?" Tags="|toyota|noise|rav4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34842" CreationDate="2016-08-06T09:21:08.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be throttle body calibration issue. I did a engine tuneup recently and cleaned up throttle body for carbon residue. After calibrating throttle body sudden rpm drops has not been observed so far at least in test drive..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21359" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T09:21:08.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:19:32.273" Score="5" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to change my RCD 310 (VW Passat CC 2011) by Android Device. Everything is working except steering wheel controls. I know that in some number of cars steering wheel control is working with rheostat. So there are two wires, say mass-wire (usually minus) and control-wire. The rheostat is placed into the wheel and these two wires connected to the device. So the device measure the resistance in this electrical circuit and make a decision about which button is pressed or nothing. But in the Internet I can't find whether RCD 310 have rheostat-technology or may be some other tech. By this PINs (see the picture) I can't determine it and even it's true I can't determine where is control-wire. Please help!)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyHxf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyHxf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21397" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T10:27:39.937" Title="RCD 310 : are steering wheel controls resistant?" Tags="|vw|steering-wheel|passat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T15:07:07.397" Score="7" ViewCount="11489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and I need to replace the ball joints, and the inner and outer tie rods. Money being tight, I only have enough for one and I'm going to pay to have it done. What should I do first? Does it matter? I need a wheel alignment too, hopefully I can do one and then the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21401" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T15:57:53.090" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:53:35.257" Title="Should I replace the ball joints or the tie rods first?" Tags="|ford|suspension|taurus|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35085" CreationDate="2016-08-06T15:40:32.347" Score="7" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read on the internet, in a couple of maintenance books and asked a few buddy mechanics and they all seem to point to the fact that a healthy diesel engine should not produce black smoke and that the common reason why this happens is because of too much fuel to not enough oxygen leading to incomplete combustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fuel is not completely burnt, then all that fuel is wasted which is not what I would expect in a racing context, so what gives? Why don't they cut on the amount of fuel injected into the engine so as to maintain a proper fuel/air ratio? Or better yet, increase the amount of air being rammed into the engine (at least as long as it wouldn't hurt the power to mass ratio)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add more confusion, I took a look at some footage of the Audi R18 TDI and I failed to notice any black smoke, which makes perfect sense, given the nature of the type of contest it is taking part in (efficiency anyone?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why are diesel dragsters wasting fuel and producing soot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16285" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T18:15:58.933" LastActivityDate="2023-01-21T22:45:27.523" Title="Given that one of the reasons diesel engine produce black smoke is overfueling, why do diesel dragster produce so much soot?" Tags="|diesel|smoke|air-fuel-ratio|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15442" CreationDate="2016-08-06T17:00:33.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the service manual for this exact car and the wiring diagram indicated the &quot;Transmission Control Switch&quot; (S6 in the middle of my picture below) inside the gear shift assembly controlled both the dashboard indicator LED and the Engine Control Module through the same wiring connection. This proved it has to be the switch in the gear shifter since the LED was not coming on and it was not going into D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily I found a cheap (~$60) used gear shift assembly for this exact car on eBay and that fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgI4l.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgI4l.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scion Gear Shifter Wiring Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9435" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T17:00:33.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35088" CreationDate="2016-08-06T17:17:14.680" Score="7" ViewCount="177005" Body="&lt;p&gt;2002 Acura RSX. Battery is fine all lights come on in car. Car will even almost start just missing that last step. I am only able to overcome the last step when I use jumper cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21403" LastEditorUserId="21403" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T18:35:13.233" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T02:48:32.070" Title="Car wont start unless I use jumper cables but battery is fine" Tags="|battery|jump-start|acura|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:12:00.240" Score="3" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;2007 Ford Focus ZX3 SE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had alternator issues before but this is just weird.  The car cut out flashing the battery warning symbol.  To me, this seemed like an alternator issue (which I had replaced 4 months ago, as well as a new battery)  AAA came out and tried to jump the car and could not.  When the key is turned the ignition comes on and all interior and exterior electrical components (apart from the rear right tail light) appear to work.  When the key is turned all the way to start the car nothing happens.  No choking sound, no stuttering, no lights flashing (like during last alternator problem) or anything.  According to the technician, the battery appears to be fine.  Could the alternator and starter motor cut out simultaneously?  I'm scratching my head here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car just ticked over to 100k and everything seems to be breaking at once.  New brake discs, new power steering pump, reverse lights breaking, and now battery and alternator issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21404" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T03:53:53.700" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:53:44.230" Title="Car stopped with battery warning light, battery tested fine and appears fine" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|breakdown|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:29:53.280" Score="6" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed many times in my Royal Enfield Classic 350 motorcycle that when there is a low quantity of fuel or quantity before reserve is near, the sound of engine becomes noisy and pickup power becomes little bit less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know exactly what is the effect of fuel quantity on my bike model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14160" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T20:09:06.147" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T09:08:28.917" Title="Does engine sound and performance differs with different quantity fuel?" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-system|intermittent-problems|enfield-classic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34887" CreationDate="2016-08-06T18:47:47.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the car cut out while running &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it wont crank, but everything else reportedly works, this kind of sounds to me like an ignition switch or immobilizer problem (or associated wiring somewhere along the line) more so than a starter issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disconnect your battery&lt;/em&gt; then do a visual inspection of your ground points and starter/ignition/immobilizer wiring, pop off the connectors, check for corrosion and proper seating, loose wires, check continuity and resistances with a multimeter. Clean corroded connectors, replace broken connectors and wiring. Make sure all fuses and relays are properly seated, check for any blown fuses. Note a wiring problem may be under the dash somewhere, not just in the engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the ignition switch with a multimeter and cross referencing the vehicles wiring diagrams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not sound like a battery or alternator issue. It's significant that it both died while running &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; wont try starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T19:02:29.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T19:02:29.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34892" CreationDate="2016-08-06T19:48:11.800" Score="6" ViewCount="2353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a kia and noticed this vent as part of the dash around the climate control. I looked in the user manual but there is no labels attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it's for?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7cy3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7cy3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of vent&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21407" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:25:56.473" Title="What is this small vent?" Tags="|kia|vents|climate-control|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34887" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:14:12.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a 30a fuse in the battery junction box (engine compartment), be sure it is good, should be 12v on both sides of the fuse, if only one side the fuse has 12v fuse is bad, if both sides 12v fuse feed is open circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a starter relay in the central junction box (behind dash panel left side), it could be defective. Starter relay location image below. You can swap the drl relay with the starter relay to verify if it will start now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXVip.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXVip.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on if it is manual or automatic trans, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual, the clutch switch could be bad or anti theft issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automatic, trans range sensor (neutral safety switch) could be bad, try starting in neutral, or anti theft issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:14:12.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34890" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:25:56.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an interior temperature sensor for cars with automatic A/C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on my car, a Mitsubishi Lancer it's not in the same location but it serves the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZmMB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZmMB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DusG2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DusG2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:25:56.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34895" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:32:03.493" Score="7" ViewCount="25102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with the general workings of a torque converter. The engine-side blade pushes the fluid, the fluid spins the transmission-side blade. What I am all fuzzy about is, for lock-up torque converters, the tranny-side blade gets physically bonded to the engine-side blade above certain RPMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOW&lt;/strong&gt; does this happen? Is it a clutch-like friction thing? I've read different things in different places, so are there different implementations from different manufacturers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T00:31:59.870" Title="How does a lock-up torque converter work, exactly?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34888" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:32:06.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a guess and not specific to your bike. I'm also not sure if the effect is large enough to be noticeable. So, just my theory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bowl of a carburetor, there is a float, pushing a valve up against the fuel inlet pipe. So it closes when fuel is at a certain level in the bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, fuel finds its way into the carburetor by gravity only. And if the tank is full, there is more pressure at the fuel inlet, and it needs more force from the float to close the valve. This means, the fuel level in the bowl is a little higher when the tank is full, and a little lower, when the tank is almost empty. And as consequence, the mixture is leaner when the tank is empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a lean mixture could cause the effects you observe, though it's hard to believe that the effect is so strong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:32:06.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34893" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:35:21.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an internal clutch that locks the converter when engaged by the torque converter clutch solenoid. Fluid pressure it routed through the input shaft into the converter clutch, which engages the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is non electronic transmission it uses a pressure switch inside the transmission to engage the solenoid (gm calls it a tcc solenoid) at a given speed and current gear (gear is usually 3rd and overdrive, if electronic, the trans computer controls lockup using the solenoid. When it engages it depends on make/model of transmission and software programming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MLRd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MLRd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T00:31:59.870" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T00:31:59.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34888" CreationDate="2016-08-06T20:46:27.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on compression ratio (CR) of any given engine whether it can can benefit from higher octane fuel, regular grade fuel is for compression ratios of 8.5 to 1 or lower, premium grade gasoline is for 9.0-10.0 CR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 10.5 or higher CR premium will still ping on premium unless you retard the timing 2 degrees or more, which defeats the purpose of high compression and extra horsepower, you would need a fuel additive or racing fuel for these motors to take full advantage of the CR. Engines with aluminum cylinder heads tolerate lower octane fuel better than cast iron heads, less detonation (ping) for any given CR and ignition timing setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you will notice less performance on higher CR engines with low octane fuel and they can sound different also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:46:27.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T22:17:34.113" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i have been having this confusing problem with my toyota.  The gauges and LCD on the dash have some sort of brownout going on which causes them to flip on and off during driving.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Additionally, the dash will shut down when trying to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Turn signals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Wipers (front and rear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Cabin Fan/AC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Seatbelt click-in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the dash power terminal and it appears to be getting 8 volts when operational, 6 volts when flickering and 0 volts when non-operational.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&#xA;Can I just splice in another 12v ignition activated wire into the power wire I found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21411" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T01:31:35.220" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T01:35:00.740" Title="2004 Toyota Celica Dash gauges brown-out issue" Tags="|electrical|toyota|celica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33574" CreationDate="2016-08-06T22:23:54.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surprised no-one mentioned this. I discovered it by accident the hard way, while researching the problem that knowing about this earlier could have avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Internally damaged &quot;weak&quot; batteries can cause observable voltage fluctuations while charging and extra current draw that &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/27815/can-a-weak-battery-destroy-an-alternator&quot;&gt;can cause alternators to develop a fault and break&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damaged batteries including formerly completely flattened batteries can to get into a state where it seems to just about work, but is actually quietly damaging the alternator. They don't necessarily appear &quot;dead&quot;, they can be made to &lt;em&gt;seemingly&lt;/em&gt; work, but it's a potentially damaging undead zombie-like state where treating them like the living, allowing them to shuffle around, results in problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger signs that I'd observed but hadn't known how to interpret were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voltage fluctuations while charging. I mentioned in the question that I'd noticed these while connected to a battery charger. When driving, the alternator would respond to each such fluctuation by doing more work for longer, suffering excesive wear and (potentially) heat damage. Look for these while charging with a charger, not the alternator with the engine idling, since the alternator might be correcting and therefore masking fluctuations with the engine running, so no fluctuations with the alternator active might not mean no problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery voltage never quite getting as high as might be expected. I mentioned in the question that the battery could often (but not always) just about reach 12.6V (but never higher). I took this to mean it wasn't &lt;em&gt;dead&lt;/em&gt;, since that was easily enough to start the car, but actually, it meant the battery was always hungry for current and therefore the alternator was always doing extra work, not just increasing wear but also increasing the likelihood of system voltage fluctuation because it's never not feeding current to the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A third warning sign appears to be if the circuit voltage drops substantially while cranking the car to a start (or on other heavy load conditions). As far as I can tell from reading around (please correct me if I'm wrong), maintaining 11V or more while cranking is good, dropping below 9V while cranking is a warning sign of a weak battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd been using a relatively new (~6 months) but formerly completely flattened 'zombie' battery, that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be recharged and &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; start the car albeit temperamentally. My thinking at the time was, &quot;well, it's clearly not &lt;em&gt;dead&lt;/em&gt; like people say, since it seems to work&quot;. My alternator's voltage regulator wore out, and the alternator diodes and brushes got damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator eventually packed in and stopped working completely; ironically, shortly after I finally bought a new battery... Don't do what I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, don't let all the talk of such batteries being &quot;dead&quot; fool you into thinking that they simply harmlessly fail. You also need to watch out for a battery &lt;em&gt;harmfully&lt;/em&gt; appearing to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/27833/13299&quot;&gt;top-voted answer to the above linked question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...when a car has a weak battery that battery will want lots of current. The current demand of the battery lowers the system voltage so the voltage regulator compensates by sending more current through the rotor. At idle, the alternator is incapable of making the needed current. Because of this the system voltage drops even more and the voltage regulator sends the maximum current through the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this maximum load minimum speed conditions is where the wear happens. At the minimum speed the minimum amount of cooling is available from the built in fan. At the maximum load the voltage regulator will push the maximum amount of current through the rotor and through the brushes and slip rings. The brushes and slip rings get hot and with no additional cooling available from the fan they will wear faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T22:49:11.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T22:56:34.880" Score="1" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a 2008 Beetle, 2.5l , SE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to replace the lock cylinder and ignition starter switch. The place is asking us about 460$ in labor, and the parts are almost 300$. We already paid 100$ in diagnosis, so if we want to go ahead it will be 660$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we have to program the codes for the key ? &#xA;Can we order the parts online(ask the company to program them by giving them our VIN nr) and have a local mechanic replace this ?&#xA;I was thinking to order it online (200$ total part), have a local mechanic replace it, maybe up to 150-200$, and some local dealership to program the keys (but i don't know how much this might cost)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does programming usually costs ? We are looking for the best solution to minimizing the 700+ cost, and any advice is welcome &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21412" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T03:52:32.637" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T03:52:32.637" Title="Replacing lock cylinder and ignition starter switch but what about codes/keys?" Tags="|ignition|ignition-key|beetle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-08T08:37:40.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T01:38:14.950" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Ford Taurus, one of the power steering pump hoses is not on, Can you drive it like that or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21414" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T10:52:20.927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:16:35.180" Title="Asking a question about power steering pump" Tags="|ford|power-steering|taurus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34897" CreationDate="2016-08-07T01:44:31.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would expect to see about 12 V between the power terminal and ground. Find a place where you can make a clean solid connection to the body of the car, or run temporary wire back to the batter for your ground. Then check the dash power again. If the voltage is low (anything more than maybe a tenth of a volt below what you read at the battery) then you have an issue on the power side. If you are reading close to the battery voltage, then the problem is with the ground side of the circuit. Try this with each of the loads that causes the problem (see if they cause the power supply to drop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time it is common for grounds to degrade and since they are often tied to the body of the car at common points you can see very weird interactions. @JasonC suggestion in the comment is a good one, the most likely place to find the problem will be the common points (which are often grounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is on the supply (+12 V) side, trace the circuit from the battery looking for the point where the voltage drops. Some places to look include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any load management relays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connectors, especially those in places that can get wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T01:44:31.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34903" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-07T03:51:45.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T03:51:45.637" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T03:51:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34904" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-07T03:51:45.637" Score="0" Body="Related to the area of the engine block where the piston travels." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T04:22:42.240" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T04:22:42.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2365" CreationDate="2016-08-07T03:53:42.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We got a new silver-backed key for my 2008 Prius and my husband said that just one little step was missing for the programming of the keyless parts of the fob (2nd set of instructions).  He found these instructions worked:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://priuschat.com/threads/how-to-program-a-new-key-fob-for-full-sks-functionality.133877/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://priuschat.com/threads/how-to-program-a-new-key-fob-for-full-sks-functionality.133877/&lt;/a&gt;  Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21416" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T03:53:42.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34882" CreationDate="2016-08-07T05:22:17.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO you'd be better getting them all done together, then once done the alignment can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really must have everything done separately, perhaps explain your predicament to the garage,  just so that your not charged for an alignment check after each component replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T05:22:17.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34910" CreationDate="2016-08-07T11:21:34.417" Score="3" ViewCount="9682" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/32340/7132&quot;&gt;my question on trying to diagnose what's wrong with my alternator&lt;/a&gt;, but I feel it stands alone as it's own question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a new rectifier based on the findings listed in the linked question, but when I opened the alternator up I noticed that the brushes looked really short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74Qit.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74Qit.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a screen shot &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/qOo0iSnmwP4?t=9m&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from a video of someone replacing the brushes on a similar model Mitsubishi alternator&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y6BZM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y6BZM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a quick recap, it's an 80 amp alternator and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoim345.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;field control unit&lt;/a&gt; ( ECU does voltage regulation ) has a 14.3 volt set point.  At 2100 rpms, it's maxing out at about 58 amps and between 12.6 - 13 volts while at the same time drawing about 3 - 5 amps from the battery as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So looking at this it makes me wonder if my problem may just be that the brushes are too short and it's not the rectifier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are typical symptoms of short brushes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T21:14:30.557" Title="Are my alternator brushes too short and what problems do short brushes cause?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34887" CreationDate="2016-08-07T12:41:09.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car from years ago - Its cabling between the Alternator and Battery had multiple connectors, and they corroded over time, the symptoms I got were that the car would run fine in daylight (unless it rained and I operated the windshield wipers, or lights) and not long at night, the Battery would run out of power. The reason for the problem is this - Say the wiring between Alternator and Battery has just 1 Ohm of resistance - The Alternator cannot charge the Battery at more than maybe 10 Amps, and that's including the load of the car's electrical demands, due to Ohm's Law (i.e. 20 Amps for the headlights, 10 Amps in from the Alternator, this is not good!) as at 10 Amps that 1 Ohm resistance would mean a 10 Volt drop in that wire, so the Alternator has to generate 20V at 10A instead of 14.5V at 60A - Meanwhile that bad connector is getting pretty warm, corroding more, etc. so it goes to 2 Ohms then 10, and so on; Pretty soon you're stranded with a dead battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Debugging it was maddening - I removed the Battery and Alternator and took them in to have them tested, &quot;Why won't this Alternator charge the Battery?&quot; and both tested perfectly normal and functional. Had me pulling hair out till I got it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my suggestion aligns with Jason C.'s, for safety disconnect the ground lead on the battery and THEN test the cable connections for resistance with a Voltmeter; If you find a high resistance joint, repair however works for you (I bypassed the high resistance joints with a heavy #4 AWG cable directly from the battery to the alternator, as the manufacturer had put about 12 connectors in there for who knows WHAT reason and I lived out in the sticks - and just needed it running right. I'm an electronics guy tho.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Re-read and thought, is it possible that the wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, is failing somehow? Unsure if on that vehicle there's a relay on the firewall / inside the engine compartment, Ford USED to do that a lot, you could test by jumping that with a heavy wire to Battery + at the relay; If not you can usually short the solenoid on the starter to +12 in some fashion, just don't rig yourself up so the car runs you over or the like! If the starter is fine but the key won't turn it over, it will either be the key switch or the wire to the relay or solenoid, or that relay or solenoid. That begs the question of what failed and shut the car down though, so definitely look for the cause of that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21422" LastEditorUserId="21422" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T12:53:44.230" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T12:53:44.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34908" CreationDate="2016-08-07T13:07:46.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brushes' job is to solve the problem of how you make a connection between the fixed and moving parts of the alternator. Over time the brushes wear, but as long as they are making a connection the length shouldn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check that the contact surfaces are clean and smooth and that the brushes move freely (so that they can make a solid connection). If one of the brushes was hanging up, that could explain the low output. You should be able to push the brushes back up into their housing and have them return smoothly and positively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brushes are hanging up &quot;in real life&quot; because they've cocked in their guides as @Paulster2 suggests in the comment below you will probably be able to see this in the wear pattern on the face of the brush that rides on the slip ring. Instead of being one smoothly curved surface it will be &quot;faceted&quot; – you'll see one or more lines where the brush has worn in different positions. If the hanging up gets bad enough the alternator may drop off line or be intermittent in its output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to check is that all the rectifier diodes and all three windings are in good shape. The max output you're seeing is pretty close to 2/3 of the alternator's capacity, that makes me think that you may have lost one leg (hopefully in the form of failed diodes rather than an open winding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T21:14:30.557" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T21:14:30.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T13:26:12.740" Score="3" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6-CD CD Changer (Same as this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK5-6-DISC-CD-CHANGER-1K0035110-/262372402370&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1DINCDC&lt;/a&gt;) in my MK5 Golf (04 reg) which lives in the armrest compartment. Is it possible to install an AUX port/cable to replace the CD changer somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is also fitted with the stock stereo. I don't mind losing the CD changer's functionality in favour for an AUX port, as long as the radio/stereo remain to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15887" LastEditorUserId="15887" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T13:48:50.743" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T22:27:18.443" Title="Replacing VW 6 CD Changer with an AUX port" Tags="|vw|golf|audio|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34919" CreationDate="2016-08-07T13:56:45.667" Score="1" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Briggs &amp;amp; Stratton 500 Series engine on my push mower.  Lately, whenever I am moving forward with the mower and then stop the engine begins to stall.  It never actually dies but comes very close.  After about 15 minutes the problem tends to go away but never completely.  I can also replicate the issue by tipping the mower up on its front wheels.  Any ideas what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gas is one week old.  The air filter is clean.  The spark plug is clean.  I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and it fired up right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20066" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:23:26.587" Title="B&amp;S 500 Series push mower stalls when forward momentum stops" Tags="|small-engine|stall|briggs-stratton|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34957" CreationDate="2016-08-07T14:23:03.177" Score="5" ViewCount="2036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1994 Ford F-150 4.9 L6 that I have fixed up and would like to DD. When I drive it long enough to get to operating temperature, I will eventually get a headache that is similar to the headache I have gotten in the past when welding in a poorly ventilated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exhaust system has been checked several times via bubble test. There are NO leaks. The shop vac can barely run because of the back pressure when hooked up the the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very small oil leak on one corner of the pushrod cover, which I will be fixing. Other than that, there is no reason to believe that this truck has any source of fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clutch was replaced recently. I used to be able to smell it burning at highway speeds. That is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not the pushrod cover leak, what else could it be? I've heard of interior plastics and glues outgassing, is that possible on this truck? It has a rubber floor, from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21424" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T14:35:56.550" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T15:13:46.490" Title="Headaches when driving older pickup truck" Tags="|ford|truck|f-150|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34882" CreationDate="2016-08-07T14:28:07.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If things are really this tight and you really can't do both, replace the tie rods first. It is better to lose a wheel completely (via broken ball joint) than to have a tie rod break and steer the car sharply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, limit your driving to essential driving only, and if your financial situation does not improve, consider parking or selling the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21424" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T14:28:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-07T14:42:51.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how the vehicle is over 20 years old, I'm doubting you are getting outgassing. That should have occurred a long time ago. If you drive with the window open to ensure fresh air flow, does the headache still occur? Maybe you just have a psychosomatic reason and your head just starts hurting because deep down you hate the truck (really just kidding here). Exhaust would be the only factor here which I can think of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaking anything, unless it's enough to burn and cause fumes, would not be causing this issue. You may try power washing all of the engine bay space to remove any oil which may be present. If you could then drive the vehicle for an appreciable amount of time before the headache returns, it would tell you the leaks could be causing your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, really there'd be no way to answer your question completely as we don't know your medical history (and we don't need to know it), nor are we physicians who can give you brain diagnostics for your issue (that is unless you have an OBDII port on the back of your head? J/K). I hope you can get it figured out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T14:42:51.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:11:57.630" Score="5" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cheerokee Laredo 4.0. I don't know much about cars, and recently had bought this Jeep off of a private owner that had said it had no problems but now after owning it for 2 1/2 months it has PROBLEMS! And it's becoming a bit stressful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken it to 2 different shops but both shops have given me only predictions on what is wrong with it and I have no idea which mechanic to believe because they are both giving me different answers. So let me explain what it is doing and hopefully someone here can help me figure this out to get it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that happened was the check engine light came on, so I had it tested &amp;amp; was told I needed spark plugs, so I had those replaced. The Jeep was fine but a week later the check engine light came back on, so I took it back in &amp;amp; was told my oxygen sensors need to be replaced. I'm working on getting those, in the meantime a few day go by and the Jeep begins to hesitate and jerk at stops and when I leave from being parked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't know what is wrong with this??? Can someone help explain this? I am also now experiencing overheating of my engine and ticking. Not knocking but ticking. I have checked my radiator &amp;amp; have discovered the previous owner must of put stop leak in the radiator at some point according to the mechanics so now I was told that needs to me completely flushed out of the system &amp;amp; needs a new radiator because the radiator looks to have been patched and may not be holding. Any answers on all of the please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;The codes I had printed out were P0135 02 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor1), P0141 Oxygen Sensor Fault, Right Side, Post Catalyst, P0155 Oxygen Sensor Fault, Left Side, Before Catalyst, P0161 HO2S-22 (Bank 2 Sensor2) Heater Curcuit Malfunction. Then it said Definition: Code P0135 indicates a fault in the bank 1, Sensor 1 O2 Heater electrical circuit for a predetermined period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21425" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T13:00:18.430" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T22:11:47.213" Title="2002 Jeep Grand Cheerokee Laredo hesitate/jerking + multiple CEL codes" Tags="|jeep|cel|overheating|rough-idle|grand-cherokee|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34901" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:16:35.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running a power steering pump without fluid will damage the pump quickly, then eventually the power rack and pinion unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:16:35.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34920" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:17:22.960" Score="2" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to give my cars egr valve a good cleaning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few YouTube videos and they can get fairly caked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be recommended to clean it by submerging it in petrol for a few days, to loosen up the carbon deposits, are there any parts that this would be an issue for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any sensors, etc,that would be damaged during this process if I did it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21426" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T16:55:22.390" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T16:55:22.390" Title="Egr valve cleaning (2.0Tdi 2005)" Tags="|diesel|tdi|egr|seat-cars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34912" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:23:26.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your issue could be one of two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The float in the carburetor may be fuel saturated. If it is leaking and not closing the needle valve all the way, it could be causing the carb to flood slightly, which would make it slow down a bit when changing the moving vector of the lawn mower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The needle valve itself is not seating correctly and letting too much fuel through when you don't want it. This is less likely, but could be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if either of these two things aren't in play, I still believe its a fueling issue. I would bet either a carb rebuild would fix it (if you can get the rebuild to work correctly) or a new carb would definitely do it. While a new carb would be more expensive, I have been opting for this over a rebuild kit as I can never seem to get the rebuilt carb to function correctly. Getting a new carb for your small engine will save you a lot of time and hassle in the long run over the rebuild as well. A new carb will usually cost about 3 times as much as a rebuild kit, but is well worth it in the end, in my humble opinion (I always consider: &lt;em&gt;What is my time worth?&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:23:26.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34918" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:28:23.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take it off of the engine, your best bet is to clean it with carb cleaner. Don't submerge it in anything, as you can cause damage to any diaphragm seals which may be present (if vacuum operated) or in any electrical motors which do the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you clean it, don't forget to clean the ports in the intake manifold. They will also be clogged. If the EGR is plugged or gummed up, you'll need to clean the ports to get it function correctly/efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:28:23.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34923" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:34:12.513" Score="3" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH w/ 190k miles and a slow oil leak (~ 0.5-1 qt/week depending on how much I drive it) that I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; ultimately comes out the lower timing belt cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also need a new timing belt. Now I was going to take it to a shop for the belt and the leak but I've decided to tackle the timing belt on my own. This means that I should also find the leak (if I don't, I might as well have the shop do the belt, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the service diagrams and some reasoning it seems the leak is most likely from the cam or crank seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What techniques can I do to diagnose where the leak is coming from in an engine that has the timing belt removed and thus can't run? Is there anything I can do beyond just replacing the hypothetically bad seals, putting it all back together, then seeing if the leak stopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to have to take it all apart again if replacing the seals doesn't fix it, since this is already a pretty daunting task. My goal is to verify that the leak is fixed before reassembling it, and to not have this turn into a week long project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques are available to me? How can I definitively nail down the leak (or at least increase the chance that I've fixed it) while minimizing the possibility of having to repeat a bunch of disassembly work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T18:32:44.773" Title="Diagnosing an engine oil leak" Tags="|honda|troubleshooting|oil-leak|diagnostics|prelude|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2016-08-07T15:39:46.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Moab pointed out, your issues are very &quot;generic&quot;, meaning there's a number of things that could be causing them. Here's what you do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the check engine light comes on, it means the computer has found something wrong with something and has stored a trouble code in it's memory to tell you what it found. Most car parts stores will read these codes for you for free, no need to go to a shop and pay for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your first issue was the check engine light came on and somebody changed your spark plugs because of it. While there is no trouble code that says you need to replace spark plugs, there are a few generic trouble codes where the first and most likely and less expensive &quot;guess&quot; is bad spark plugs. Call that mechanic or shop and ask them what the trouble code was that time, because the Jeep started having issues again a short time later. It could be a different problem, or it could be the same problem that came back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your second issue was a week later where the check engine light came back on and you were told to have the O2 sensor replaced. There is a trouble code for a bad O2 sensor when it goes completely bad and it gives the computer some readings that are &quot;out of range.&quot; However, most of the time (in my experience), when O2 sensors cause problems is because they are reading wrong or reading too slowly, and there isn't a trouble code specific for that. Call that shop and ask what the trouble code was that time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your third issue is the Jeep jerking and hesitating at stops and when leaving a parking spot. Engine trouble that occurs only at low-speeds is likely to be the Idle Air Control valve. It may need replacing, or it may simply need a cleaning, or maybe the electrical connection to it is loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the age of the Jeep, it is normal to get a lot of nagging little issues due to neglected maintenance from previous owners. None of these issues sound too expensive, just get us the trouble codes and we'll guide you to a diagnostic. Most mechanics just like &quot;throwing parts&quot; at a vehicle until the problem or the client disappears. A lot of the simple repairs only need basic tools and basic skills, so if you have a mechanically-inclined friend, he or she may do this for beer or a warm meal. Labour on auto repairs usually ranges between half and 2/3 of the repair bill, parts are cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T15:39:46.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34921" CreationDate="2016-08-07T16:01:29.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On that engine the cam(2), crank(1) and balance shaft(1) seals are the only place that can leak oil behind the timing cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 190K I guarantee they are all leaking, Crank usually leaks the worst first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting UV dye in the oil, the run it for a few days, then use a uv light to see if anything visible outside the cover is leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T16:36:32.047" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T16:36:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34921" CreationDate="2016-08-07T17:11:21.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's three things you need to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As has been pointed out, seeing the leak is the only sure way to diagnose the orgin of the leak. UV dye in the oil is one way, giving the engine compartment a good cleaning and then watch for where fresh oil is coming from is another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't test a seal. Fluids inside an engine become under some pressure and some agitation while the engine is running. Either the seal seals, or the seal doesn't seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As has also been pointed out, this car has a lot of mileage and age,&#xA;if all your seals aren't already leaking, they will be soon, especially after you change a leaking one. A leaking seal will let some of the pressure out of whatever it is sealing, meaning after the repair, that system will be back to it's normal pressure, meaning the old seals you haven't changed will now have more pressure to contend with all of a sudden. You can&#xA;replace the one or ones that are definitely leaking, or bite the&#xA;bullet and do all of them (Moab pointed you to 4 of them). New seals&#xA;buy you piece of mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T17:11:21.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-07T17:31:12.387" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The shop vac can barely run because of the back pressure when hooked up the the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a severe exhaust restriction it could explain the presence of fumes in the cabin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the engine is running the exhaust gases have to escape from somewhere, regardless of whether the exhaust is free-flowing or not. If your vehicle employs an EGR setup that would be one way for the engine to continue running despite having a clogged exhaust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EGR plumbing isn't designed for very high pressures; it is reasonable to assume that some exhaust gas will vent out to the engine bay from hose connections, cracks, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once the exhaust gases are in the engine bay, the cabin air intake will have no problem sucking it into the cabin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T17:31:12.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T17:40:07.903" Score="1" ViewCount="2695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unable to locate the fuel filter in my 2008 Subaru Impreza, because I want to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does it lie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21427" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T18:00:02.897" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T19:59:54.013" Title="Where does Subaru Impreza 2008 fuel filter lies?" Tags="|subaru|impreza|fuel-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2016-08-07T18:16:26.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few more good signs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic is willing to explain what they propose to do to your car in language that makes sense to you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When they complete the work they are happy to explain what they found and show you the parts they replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They keep good records of the work they do on your car. At the very least there should be notes on any codes they found, work they recommended, and the work that they actually did.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They offer a warranty on their work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T18:16:26.593" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-08-07T18:16:26.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34921" CreationDate="2016-08-07T18:32:44.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace every seal that you can when you do the timing belt. It just isn't worth not doing them. Most seals are relatively inexpensive and you're doing almost all of the work needed to replace them when you do the timing belt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T18:32:44.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34934" CreationDate="2016-08-07T19:01:55.983" Score="12" ViewCount="250066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the oil filter's job is to remove contaminants from the engine and that it holds some oil in it from the previous oil; however, is it really necessary to replace this every oil change? Could you get by replacing this every other oil change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T20:17:51.483" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T03:42:25.613" Title="Is it necessary to replace an oil filter every oil change?" Tags="|oil|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2016-08-07T19:34:35.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what your trouble codes mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0135: O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 1, sensor 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0141: O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 1, sensor 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0155: O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 2, sensor 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P0161: O2 sensor heater circuit (bank 2, sensor 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like all 4 of your O2 sensors are failing for the same reason, and I find that hard to believe. What is most likely (in my opinion) is that either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sensors are covered with soot that is cooked on pretty good preventing the heater circuit from operating properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is damage to the wiring harness of the sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is likely because of age and mileage, option 2 is only possible if all 4 sensors share the same wiring harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's option 1, you need to make sure the engine is burning cleanly, otherwise the issue will return.&#xA;If it's option 2, the harness will either need to be repaired or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this being said, bad O2 sensors will only likely cause the engine to be less fuel-efficient and pollute more. This is unlikely to cause the jerking at slow speeds you have reported. This is likely the Idle Air Control Valve as has been suggested, or something in the engine isn't running perfectly, so we are talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough air (inspect your air filter, they are $10 to replace)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough fuel (replace your fuel filter, $15 for most cars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not enough spark (spark plugs are new, were they set to the proper gap? Spark plug wires/coils would be next, about $20 each and you have 6 of them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call the shop that replaced the spark plugs and ask them about the spark plug gap, since the jerking issue started after the new plugs. A lot of mechanics buy into &quot;spark plugs come pre-gapped.&quot; This is BS. I always check the gap of spark plugs before putting them in, the gap is always all over the place fresh out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T19:34:35.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34926" CreationDate="2016-08-07T19:59:54.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On that model the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump in the gas tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQk8T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQk8T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T19:59:54.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34929" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:07:29.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is best to change every oil change, they are cheap and no good reason not to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use synthetic oil the oil change interval is longer (usually twice as long or longer) which would mean you don't change the filter as often per mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:07:29.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6920" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:15:47.573" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to A&amp;amp;P school and did have a conversation very similar to this so will put in my two cents.  I am not an expert in this field but I doubt those that are will want or be obliged to tell you a little history of av gas which I do believe will correlate to what you're asking.  Standard av gas used to be standardized at 80 octane but was changed to 100LL octane LL standing for low lead, because someone convinced the powers that be that the higher octane would give better emissions!  100LL contains approximately 4 times the lead as the 80 octane fuel it replaced.  Why did they add the lead?  Anyone with a car made before the 80's can tell you, the lead is a knock inhibitor and by that I mean octane booster. When you buy fuel there is no actual Octane in it.  Just an equivalent to octane in points above and below Octane.  As I learned there is more energy available in a gallon of low octane fuel say 87 vs 93 where as there may be more power available with the 93 at the expense of mpg and more mpg per lower octane!  Higher octane is a scam for those seeking better mpg,  for those wanting more power you're car has to be tuned for it and bigger injectors to spray more fuel.  When gas sits for a prolonged amount of time it loses some of it's octane rating, so if you started with 87 octane and let it sit a month then start it up probability is that the fuel you are burning is below 85 Octane rating so anybody want to be the judge of will a car run properly below 87 Octane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21429" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:15:47.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34929" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:17:09.340" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You need to change the oil filter every oil change.&lt;/strong&gt; In fact some of the longer lasting oils like Amsoil suggest you change your filter out at normal change intervals if you don't use their filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filter is very important in the scheme of things. While the oil may be able to stand up to the longer interval, once the filter gets full enough, it will start bypassing unfiltered oil directly back into the mix. This ensures your engine won't fail outright from oil starvation. It also means you have all of the dirt and particulates causing havoc within your engine. By replacing the oil filter at every oil change, your chances of this happening are far less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:17:09.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:24:38.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you qualified the exhaust system has no leaks, check the erg tube for leaks, also check the exhaust manifold gaskets if it has them, between manifold and cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check for oil leaks that drip onto exhaust manifolds, this will create CO and will get sucked into the passenger cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to check for exhaust system leaks (exhaust manifolds back to tail pipe) is to use a smoke machine connected to the tail pipe(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check for hydrocarbons (Carbon Monoxide=CO) in the passenger cabin Put a carbon monoxide sensor (similar to what is used in houses and motor homes) in the cabin when you drive, see if it alarms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EGR Tube image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eaVW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eaVW.png&quot; alt=&quot;EGR Tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T20:30:13.283" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:30:13.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34937" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:45:26.323" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brought my car in to deal with the check engine light.  The mechanic told me it was a problem with the MAPS sensor, which we got him to replace.  The car worked fine for one day following the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following day, the car wouldn't start.  Here is list of my observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car cranks for about a second, then stops cranking and starts making a clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The car is able to start with a jump.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The battery seems fine, as all other electrical systems related to the car work properly (wipers, radio, lights, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can restart the car within 30 seconds of turning it off.  If I wait any longer than that, then it won't start. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be much appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21430" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:56:49.863" Title="2010 VW Golf MAPS sensor issue/car won't start" Tags="|engine-start|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34936" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:56:49.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your battery may be bad, you need to test the charging system, if the charging system is good, replace the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the alternator is not charging then you need to diagnose that first, more than likely the alternator is faulty and needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T20:56:49.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T21:14:43.597" Score="2" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an error code on my '97 Ranger that said it needed a new camshaft position sensor, but since the truck still ran fine I put off replacing it.  One night I tried to start it, and it fired up for one or two seconds then died.  The engine just clicked once when I tried to start it, and there was now an error code for &quot;multiple cylinder misfire&quot; in addition to the bad sensor, which I've read is a logical next thing to go wrong if your camshaft position sensor is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got a new sensor and replaced the bad one, but it still just clicks once when you try to start it, and now shows either no OBD codes or just says &quot;error&quot; on my code reader.  I tried sending an erase codes message and draining the power from the electrical system (while the battery was unhooked of course) to reset the ECM, but neither did anything. Does the engine timing need to be reset by a shop? Ideas?  What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T18:34:28.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:34:28.310" Title="Replaced bad camshaft sensor on '97 Ranger, still won't start" Tags="|ford|troubleshooting|ranger|cam-position-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T21:30:04.040" Score="4" ViewCount="4960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa few 2.7l v6. I've been having problems with this car for a while now. I've already put some money into it, I got the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, the alternator, ecm, and purge valve fixed. I just recently fixed the ecm it ran great right after we installed a used part we purchased. Today it started up great we drove maybe for 45 mins, stopped to get food (40 minutes at a restaurant) on our way out the car started and we drove out of the parking lot then we stopped at a red light right beside the restaurant and the car just died, we tried to crank it back up but once again it wouldn't turn over. I don't know what else I can do or fix. Please help!!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21431" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T21:59:07.887" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T16:00:23.220" Title="Car died at red light and now it won't turn over" Tags="|starting|hyundai|stall|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34942" CreationDate="2016-08-07T21:31:29.647" Score="15" ViewCount="12849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always run oil around the rubber rim of the new filter, and screw it in by hand, maybe a couple of twists with an oil filter strap wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when it comes to removing it, it's a massive ordeal. It just wont budge. I've broken strap wrenches and claw sockets. Most times, I end up having to drive a thick screw driver through the filter, adding a breaker bar to it, and hammering or levering the damn thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something weird going on here? Is there a trick to making it easier to come off for next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T22:31:14.730" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T22:31:14.730" Title="Everytime I go to change my oil filter it's extremely hard to remove. Any way I can make this easier for me in the future?" Tags="|oil-change|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-07T21:36:31.220" Score="27" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... and screw it in by hand, maybe a couple of twists with an oil filter strap wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't over-tighten it. Tighten it by hand then at &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; about a quarter turn with a strap wrench or by hand (definitely not a couple twists!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good indicator is if you can &lt;em&gt;unscrew&lt;/em&gt; your new filter by hand with just a minimal amount of initial strength. Go for this when installing a new filter. If the new filter you just installed requires a wrench or some serious muscle to unscrew, you've got it on too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a number for it, my vehicle calls for 16 ft-lb torque on the filter, others are similar. Fwiw, I've only ever hand tightened them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T22:11:48.750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:11:48.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:10:03.250" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil filter strap wrenches are made to &lt;em&gt;remove&lt;/em&gt; filters, not put them on. Oil filters should be made &lt;strong&gt;finger-tight&lt;/strong&gt;, not hand-tight and certainly not wrench-tight. The filter will go through expansion-contraction cycles with the heat from the engine, it will tighten itself up, as you've testified to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only make it finger-tight when you install them, you shoud be able to wrestle it off using the full force of your hand and arm, strap wrench is supposed to be your last resort. I only need a strap wrench to remove the filter from one of my cars where the oil filter is in a bad place and I can't make a fist around it, and I ain't no former boxer. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:10:03.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4430" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:56:21.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you installed to non-OEM mounts, they will transmits normal engine vibration MUCH GREATER than you might believe, especially when they are cold and hard. The rear engine OEM mount, which manages the major vibrations, is fluid filled and vacuumed controlled (active/passive) to counteract vibration at idle (soft) and and at off-idle (firm). Non-OEM mounts do not have this feature and transmit all engine vibration all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can live with it or spend $$$$ to upgrade to OEM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ask me how I know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21432" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:56:21.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:33:15.663" Score="3" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the engine is hot the starter it will not work. When I run a wire from the battery to the neutral safety switch it starts. Also, after it cools down it starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21433" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T09:46:06.650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T02:24:32.863" Title="I have a '67 Camaro 350 with a starter that will not work when hot" Tags="|electrical|starting|chevrolet|starter|camaro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34945" CreationDate="2016-08-07T23:55:26.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most common problem those years, usually it is a wiring issue, wiring to solenoid start terminals gets burnt near the starter where it is close to the exhaust manifold. also the ignition switch gets burned out, check the switch and connectors for indications of over heating (burned). If there is no soleniod heat shield on the starter this can be the root cause, install a heat shield linked below, but check the wiring also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wiring for fatigue and burns near the manifold, repair as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you have to check the entire starter solenoid circuit path from the fuse box to the starter for problems. Fuse box &gt;ign switch&gt; neutral safety&gt; starter solenoid, look for overheating of the terminals and wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also install a &quot;new&quot; starter with solenoid heat shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock starter heat shield below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1981_Camaro_Starter_Solenoid_Heat_Shield_p/alt-61.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1981_Camaro_Starter_Solenoid_Heat_Shield_p/alt-61.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T23:55:26.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:10:19.407" Score="2" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drained the fluid and found metal pieces. It won't shift into any gear other than reverse. When I try to shift into the other gears it locks up and stalls out. Can anybody help I think I'll have to replace the gear box or is this a DIY project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21434" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T09:40:22.637" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T09:40:22.637" Title="99 BMW 323i E46 5 Speed Manual Trans Stuck In Reverse" Tags="|bmw|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:24:27.810" Score="2" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: Hyundai Getz 2010 (3 door)&#xA;Kilometers: 19,000 (11,500 miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bought my first car a few weeks ago, got it checked out by a mechanic and all was good. He mentioned there was very minor impact damage on front cross member bolt and washer, passenger side rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now though, when driving at low speeds, turning &amp;amp; braking, the car makes a creaking noise. It comes from the rear of the car... &#xA;I have a pretty limited knowledge of cars, but is this a serious issue?  It's definitely an annoying one, but does it warrant immediate action (aka going to a mechanic asap) &#xA;Is it related to the previously mentioned impact damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21435" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T00:24:27.810" Title="Hyundai Getz 2010 making creaking sound" Tags="|brakes|hyundai|noise|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:34:39.283" Score="5" ViewCount="26105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was servicing my front brakes and one slide pin on each side was frozen in the bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After removing and cleaning everything I went to grease the pins but realized I ran out of silicone paste that I normally use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did however have some left over dielectric grease from a tune up and used some of that. Then I got wondering about the differences as I believe dielectric grease has or is a form of silicone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me here inquiring. Can they be used I interchangeably? Like silicone paste on spark plugs or dielectric grease on slide pins etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw my brakes felt better so for now all seems well with the dielectric substitute on the slide pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21437" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T10:14:34.477" Title="Are silicone and dielectric greases interchangeable?" Tags="|brakes|brake-calipers|grease|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34882" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:45:49.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sonia- just out of curiosity, how many miles on the Taurus? I also drove a 2000 Taurus (wagon). I previously opted to do the least when it came to the front end and subsequently wore out other parts much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've done an outer tie rod replacement before I would do inners and ball joints next (in addition to outers). If you only do the outers while the other front end components need to be replaced, the outers will last only 20K miles before they go bad again. My Taurus blasted through front end parts if everything wasn't all tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to align after doing tie rods (ball joints not as important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19603" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T00:45:49.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-08T00:58:12.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed this in my truck, the flat bed causes a vortex that sucks exhaust fumes in through the windows. try covering the back with a tarp, it might change the dynamics. alternatively, you may have a really old bluetooth interface to the electronics or sound system , bluetooth causes a headache for me 100% of the time its turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21438" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T00:58:12.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2016-08-08T01:44:37.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Automatic transmissions originally had a feature that allowed push starting, a rear pump in addition to the front pump. If the car was rolling the rear pump would provide pressure even if the engine was not running. Some speed was required 15 to as much 30mph recommended for some makes to transmit enough torque through the torque converter to turn the engine for starting. All automatic cars through 1958 and some into the mid 1960s were push startable, some examples are GM's hydramatic through 1958, Chevrolet's powerglide through 1966, Fordomatic/Cruseomatic through 1963 and some Fords through early 1968, Chrysler's Torqueflite through 1965. Reference &quot;how to push and tow automatic drive cars&quot; inside back cover of MOTOR AUTO REPAIR MANUAL.          &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21439" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T01:44:37.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-08T03:19:45.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always take the seal off of the filter and oil it completely. I don't really know if this helps but I would think it would create an additional possible &quot;slipping point&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some silicone based grease I might try instead next oil change. Applied just lightly. Slippery stuff, with PTFE. It's called Super Lube (R) &amp;lt;-LOL :o )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T03:19:45.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-08T03:35:16.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure this applies to your situation, but worth mentioning. I once had a car with the oil filter on the side of the engine. It was easier to replace the oil filter by reaching down from above. However, it was not easy to see the filter, so the work was by touch. This made it difficult to gauge the required 3/4 turn after the seal made contact when installing the filter. After over-tightening the filter a few times I learned to rest a finger on the indentations around the top of the filter and count how many passed by after the seal made contact to get the right tightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21442" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T03:35:16.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:20:28.353" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;try checking the exhaustion, 99.99% of nausea related-car come from bad exhaustion especially with Ford manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21448" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T08:20:28.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34950" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:22:53.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brakes become hot. Very hot. 300°C (600°F) and more is easily achieved at the disks after a hard braking from high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most greases become quite thin at a higher temperature, and start to creep away from where they previously have been applied to. And the last thing you want is a grease which creeps onto the surface of the braking pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further more, the rubber used at the brake system is made to resist brake fluid, but often doesn't resist mineral oils and greases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone grease is said to withstand high temperatures, but since every grease has its very own behavior when hot, I would not expect that each silicone grease stays thick enough for the temperatures of a brake. At least, it should not harm the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dielectric grease seems to be a kind of silicone grease, which is explicitly made for higher temperatures like at the spark plugs. So I don't have any objection of using dielectric grease vs. normal silicon grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;I would strongly recommend to use a special grease for this purpose&lt;/strong&gt; like PlastiLube for exactly this purpose, because you never know how a random grease behaves at the brakes, even if it's made for high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T08:22:53.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34962" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:54:25.167" Score="10" ViewCount="11961" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car has a single reversing light in the bumper.  The bulb doesn't light at all (tested, also tried spares).  Measuring the voltage at the socket I get around 9V with no bulb in the circuit (with just the ignition on; 10V with the engine running). The meter is high-impedance.  All the other bulbs are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no other path to ground in the circuit that I know of (no reversing sensors powered off it) I'm puzzled as to what can cause this voltage drop. The voltage at the appropriate fuse is the normal 12-13V, higher with the engine running.  So I've reached the conclusion that there must be a partial short in the switch, but this seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 2002 Focus (UK spec) the 2 litre version with the MTX75 transmission. This means the switch plugs in to the top of the transmission housing, and is a little fiddly to get at but shouldn't be too bad once the air filter housing is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ground at the socket is good, measured to the earthing stud inside the rear wing (where the wiring goes anyway; that looks good), and also to the exhaust pipe.  In both cases I see the same resistance as just touching the probes together (0.6Ω).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before replacing the switch (which will take a few days to arrive) is there anything else I should test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9374" LastEditorUserId="9374" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T09:39:51.987" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T00:16:40.287" Title="Low voltage at reversing light socket - is it the switch? What else could it be?" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34959" CreationDate="2016-08-08T09:31:57.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the switch is a possible culprit, what I'd suspect most is that the wires to the bulb are damaged or corroded, leading to a voltage drop along the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to measure the resistance of the wires when the ignition is off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not that familiar with the Focus, but generally re-doing cable runs in Fords is pretty straightforward, so if you have to replace them it won't be a difficult job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T09:31:57.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34959" CreationDate="2016-08-08T09:34:53.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You should determine whether or not there is a good ground for the light – especially if you were reading the voltage across the terminals of the light socket. When you read between the terminals you see the voltage difference between them, and if the ground is poor (high resistance) then it will act as a voltage divider and there will not be enough voltage at the light to power it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something is causing a voltage drop… As @sweber mentioned with a high-impedance meter and no other loads on the circuit you should be seeing something closer to 12 V (since very little current is flowing due to the meter alone, high-resistance connections will only produce a tiny voltage drop). This makes me think something may be feeding current back into the circuit or that your actual path to ground is through the filament of another bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T09:55:53.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T09:55:53.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34959" CreationDate="2016-08-08T09:38:51.187" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you wrote, it is unlikely that the supply line of the bulb has a short, but not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beneath that, it's possible that the return line has a bad connection to the chassis. If an other device uses the same line, the flowing current rises the voltage on that line, and you measure a lower voltage between supply and return line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bad contact in the supply line is not possible, as the high-impedance meter should show the full 12V then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what you can do, with the bulb removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for bad connection in return line&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Find a good conducting point at the chassis (not at a door!) This could be a screw or similar. Now, measure the voltage between this point and the terminals of the bulb. If one has 12V and the other 3V (-&gt; 9V between terminals), you have a bad connection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for short in supply line&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the bulb has its own fuse, i.e. &lt;em&gt;the fuse supplies no other devices&lt;/em&gt;, pull the fuse and measure the current across the terminals (meter set to highest DCA range). If there's a short, you should observe a current of a few amps, otherwise not. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Further checks of supply line&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pull the connector of the switch. Is there still a high current through the fuse? Then, the problem is before the switch. Plug in the fuse again, and measure the voltage between chassis and the terminals of the cable of the switch. One should have 12V (from the fuse) and one should have 0V (to the bulb). Measure the resistance between that terminal and the chassis. If it is just a few ohms, you have a short in the line to the bulb. If it is above say... 1kOhm, the line is OK. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main question with measuring the supply line is what other devices are connected to it. The ECU may be connected to this line to recognize the reverse gear, and most 3rd party reverse cameras are also clamped to this line and consume current / generate low resistance. This makes the diagnosis a little difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastEditorUserId="11697" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T10:11:09.297" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T10:11:09.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35007" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:21:08.797" Score="2" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to change the rear pads and rotors on my 2006 GCV and the rear passenger rotor is not coming off. I have removed the caliper but I have not tried releasing any tension that may be caused by the emergency brake. Does anyone know if this could be the cause or if I just need some more brute force/heat to get it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11810" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:45:16.457" Title="Rear Rotor 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|emergency-brakes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32340" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:26:15.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after separating the two halves of the alternator, and showing it to a guy who rebuilds alternators he said the stator looked like it was burnt and that maybe the field control unit might be bad also.  Of course he only looked at it, although I have to say all the internal components do look burnt to my amateur eye and not just dirty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lu9lZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lu9lZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed a number of nicks and cracks in the insulation of the stator wires like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txPCf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/txPCf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it quite possible that I caused these nicks and cracks in the process of disassembling the alternator, but the I was pretty careful I thought and it would seem the insulation isn't it such great condition if it chips off so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the rotor, and the resistance between the slip rings was in spec ( between 2.4 - 6 Ohms according to one of my books ).  I also re-tested the rectifier and it seemed OK, giving 525 Ohms at 24*C and 496 Ohms at 55*C.  I'm not sure what's up with that, as I'm certain that I read 1199 on it a while back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyways, since the stator is toast ( literally ) I'm just going to grab an alternator either from the junkyard or look into a rebuilt one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one more pick showing the back of the field control unit and the rectifier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KN4B5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KN4B5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did try to clean the stator with some carb cleaner, but it didn't really seem to make much of a difference.  Anyways, I'm going to chalk this up to a burnt rotor, unless anyone has a better guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T13:26:15.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T14:20:30.727" Score="8" ViewCount="44752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to be having a bit of trouble with the first gear of a 2004 Opel Corsa. I have pulled off the gear stick cover and cant see anything stuck so it must be something that is more internal. When i try to move into first gear from neutral it often gets stuck, same for the reverse gear which is in the top left position and 1st is right next to it on the top. By stuck i mean i cannot push the gear stick in fully, it feels like something is blocking it from going in. If I press the clutch and move into 3rd gear then back into 1st it usually works as normal. I can also wiggle the stick sometimes when it only feels partially blocked and this gets rid of whatever is blocking it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue persists when the engine is not running. Going into first still gets stuck, so im guessing its the gearbox that is at fault. There doesnt appear to be any issues getting into the other gears its only the top left gears which would mean the bottom right of the gear box? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to see if i could fix this myself as the local mechanic always gives a crazy quote (200 to tighten a handbreak). Can this even be fixed or is the gearbox fit for the bin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21454" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T11:24:32.090" Title="Something Blocking Stick Going Into First Gear" Tags="|transmission|clutch|manual-transmission|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34965" CreationDate="2016-08-08T14:43:14.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending how the e-brake is setup, you may need to release it to get the rotor off. Some e-brakes are setup like drums INSIDE the rotor.  Others are setup on the caliper to close the caliper.  You will need to see if the emergency brake cable is connected to the caliper or behind the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some dodges in the 90's had the disc/internal drum setup. I am not sure how common that is beyond that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T14:43:14.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T15:49:03.780" Score="1" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find a gearbox dipstick at on my 2006 Vectra C 150 cdTI.&#xA;No dipstick can be seen at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21460" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T20:52:54.433" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:52:54.433" Title="2006 auto dipstick missing on my vectra C" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34969" CreationDate="2016-08-08T15:57:37.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cars don't have a dip stick.  There will be a procedure where you add fluid through a filler hole in the side of the sump until fluid starts to come out of the filler hole.  You usually have to do this with the engine running while someone goes through the gears.  Obviously you need to ensure the car cannot move while doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:57:37.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28183" CreationDate="2016-08-08T16:17:10.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both cars share the same bolt pattern and hub size (5 x 114.3&quot; - 60.1mm hub), so the 2013 wheels should bolt onto the 2016 Highlander without issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest concern would be that the 2013 Highlander uses 16&quot; wheels vs the 2016's 18&quot; wheels, so the smaller 2013 wheels might not clear the brake calipers on the 2016 Toyota, as they probably increased the rotor size from 2013 to 2016. If the wheels do not fit over the brake calipers, you could install a set of wheel spacers to move the rim further from the hub, allowing it to clear the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I would imagine a mid-size SUV like the Highlander will have more than enough clearance in the wheel wells to fit a wide variety of wheel sizes, so that shouldn't be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T17:47:34.083" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T17:47:34.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34965" CreationDate="2016-08-08T16:22:21.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotor is rusted to the center hub, soak center hub with penetrant then take a medium hammer and tap between studs to loosen it from center hub. Some rotors have threaded holes near the studs where you can install and tighten metric bolts to push the rotor off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That particular model has a brake shoe for the parking brake and it is hidden behind the rotor, it is a combination Rotor-Brake drum, if the brake shoe has worn the drum the shoe may be holding the rotor from coming off, it will have to be pried off gently since there is no way to access the star wheel adjuster until the rotor is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T16:22:21.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33433" CreationDate="2016-08-08T16:50:20.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As IHaveNoIdeaWhatI'mDoing stated in the comments, the buttons themselves have small LCD or OLED screens that allow them to change depending on some set of predetermined conditions. i.e. when the a/c is on, the button displays 'normal', and pressing it turns the a/c off, and when the a/c is off the button displays 'a/c' and pressing it turns the a/c on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T16:50:20.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19062" CreationDate="2016-08-08T18:00:58.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a former organic chemistry student.  This is a thought to ponder upon.  We used a three step process to clean glassware in the lab.  First, use sulfuric acid (battery acid), rinse with acetone, next sodium hydroxide (pure red devil lye), rinse with acetone, let dry.  Notice that pure acetone is used to finish the job.  Ponder that thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21466" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T18:00:58.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2016-08-08T18:38:08.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster stated in the comments, if the buttons are indeed broken, then there's no way to enter the reset code (assuming the code has a 1 or a 4 in it). Your best options are to take the stereo apart and attempt to clean the button contacts using compressed air or a electronic safe solvent, or find a different stereo to install (try your local scrap yard).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T21:24:35.260" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T21:24:35.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34981" CreationDate="2016-08-08T18:44:35.420" Score="2" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1984 BMW 733i. I am curious if it is possible to attach a trailer hitch to it for connecting a light motorcycle trailer. It seems there is no connection for it but I am not totally sure just from looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21468" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:16:06.720" Title="1984 BMW 733i Trailer Attachment?" Tags="|bmw|trailer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34983" CreationDate="2016-08-08T19:04:37.910" Score="4" ViewCount="4554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, a squirrel paid a visit to the engine compartment of my 1999 VW (it's a diesel 1.9 TDI).  Besides leaving some crabapples as gifts, it chewed clean through one of the fuel injector return hoses.  I didn't discover it until reaching my destination and smelling/observing the spilled diesel which was bathing the front of the engine.  I did not start the car until I tracked down a piece of replacement hose (not easy due to the location and the fact it was a holiday evening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have plugged or otherwise sealed the ends of the cut hose and driven home without doing any damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15967" LastEditorUserId="15967" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T22:46:02.470" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T22:46:02.470" Title="Is it OK to run a diesel engine with a blocked fuel injector return line?" Tags="|vw|diesel|fuel-injection|hose|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14933" CreationDate="2016-08-08T19:43:09.667" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are all missing the point.  Its the metal that you cant see that you are after here. If you could see it.....it would be too late already.  by trapping the micron size particles that go right thru a normal filter you lessen the wear on your engine simply because the oil is just that much cleaner. (any cleaner at all is better). JR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21471" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T19:43:09.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:11:27.350" Score="3" ViewCount="8824" Body="&lt;p&gt;The remote key fob won't open the doors by pressing any keys on it. I can, however, lock and unlock all of the doors by turning the integrated key inside the driver's door. So the central locking system works fine. It's just the remote that doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key fob seems to be working - accordingly to some specialist who tested it with his gauge. The battery replacement also didn't help. I've disassembled the diversity module and it looks as it was new. It does not look as if water got into it or anything - it was just dusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radio reception is flawless. So I have idea where to go next. Is there a way to test the diversity module somehow? I don't want to blindly replace it and face the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BMW in subject is E91 2006, 320d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21472" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T17:16:44.070" Title="BMW E91 - remote key won't open doors" Tags="|bmw|smartkey|central-locking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34977" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:16:06.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the 'U-Haul trailer hitch' (U-haul is a US based truck rental/towing company) website to search your vehicle, and it appears nobody makes a direct bolt on trailer hitch mount for your vehicle. Custom holes and a custom bracket will need to be drilled/fabricated for the rear sub-frame of your vehicle to mount a trailer hitch. It's not impossible, but it will cost you a few hundred USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:16:06.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:37:01.097" Score="3" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car 4.6 liter v8 engine. I have replaced the water pump due to it leaking and car running hot. It still ran hot, so i replaced the radiator, thermostat, and the cap that goes to the coolant. My car is still running hot and I am not getting any pressure in the area that I put the coolant in. Usually I can't take the cap off due to it being so hot and it might go into my face but instead its not. Please help if ya can thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temp reads hot on the digital screen and the coolant tank is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21473" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T22:36:48.767" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:55:48.413" Title="Town Car over heating problem" Tags="|overheating|lincoln|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34978" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:45:49.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl dr: Could you? Probably. Should you? No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines with a return line need to have it intact or you will be creating over pressure on the entire fuel system. This would cause you to dump more fuel into the engine, plus cause the fuel system components to be overworked, which could lead to other failures. If any part of the system is weak, it would most likely show it. Since it isn't designed to run as a closed system, you could most likely have been causing your vehicle far greater issues. I'm sure the High Pressure Fuel Pump in these cars is not cheap, as most I've seen are not (other makes/models).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By finding something to replace the hose, you did the right thing. Even though it was a hassle, it is far better for your car than the alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:45:49.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34978" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:46:33.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think not. The fuel, among other things, serves as a coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:46:33.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2016-08-08T22:11:47.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the O2 sensor codes. Check fuse 16 in the under hood fuse box. It's likely to be blown. The only point all four sensors have in common is the fuse. If the fuse tests good I'd pull up the fuse box and find the two wires that go to each O2 heater circuit. They'd be crimped together on one terminal. If that checks out then next would be the downstream relay and wiring harnesses/connectors. If the fuse is blown and blows once a new one is installed you have a short to ground on one of the wires and will need to be traced. A common rub through point on the 4.0 is around the rear portion of the valve cover. There should be a plastic piece that holds the harness away from the valve cover but sometimes it gets discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T22:11:47.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T23:00:22.743" Score="5" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that when the oil evaporates, the leftover oil is effectively thicker, e.g., to extrapolate, 5W40 may be closer to 5W50 after the evaporation takes place than before so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Redline Oil 5W40 (fully-synthetic ester) in my 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L with 80k miles, which requires oil of type VW 502 00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I still top it up with 5W40, or should I go with 5W30 for top-ups?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly live in the south (Austin, TX), and top-ups are only required past 5k miles (I don't change oil too often, since I use fully-synthetic ester).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2017-02-05T20:00:01.970" LastActivityDate="2017-05-06T20:53:19.273" Title="Oil evaporates/burns-off (becomes thicker), should top-up be thinner?" Tags="|oil|jetta|top-up-oil|oil-viscosity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T00:02:43.530" Score="4" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 91 Firebird Formula.  I have the electric cooling fan by-passed to run constantly. The car does not overheat idling, but does while I'm driving.  The problem is not coming from the water pump or thermostat.  Does the outlet at the back of the intake need to go back to the radiator? Does my coolant flow roll off the top of the intake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21477" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T00:10:18.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T00:11:15.030" Title="My car is overheating but its not waterpump or thermostat related by-passed heater core" Tags="|cooling-system|pontiac|overheating|firebird|formula|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34987" CreationDate="2016-08-09T00:09:45.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet your lower radiator hoses is collapsing while you are driving. You should be able to check this when everything is up to temp, then rev the engine while watching the lower hose. It will be very noticeable if it does, as it will flatten out when the pump gets a good suck on the system. The radiator hose can become weak over time and this is the inevitable outcome if it hasn't been changed recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T00:46:03.757" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T00:46:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34987" CreationDate="2016-08-09T00:54:50.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the feedback.  It was while posting this question, that the answer came to me.  There was plug in the back of the intake by my distributer that runs to my heater core to the radiator that allows the motor to cool.  It has a plug in it.  I removed the plug, put in a nipple, now it's running nice and cool!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21477" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T00:54:50.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34959" CreationDate="2016-08-09T01:04:47.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a perfect job for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/diagnosevoltdrop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;voltage drop test&lt;/a&gt;. You'll need a digital voltmeter and (for this specific job) a pair of long leads for the meter. It also helps, but isn't strictly required, to have a rough idea of what connects to what in the circuit path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the car in whatever state you would need to get the bulb to light (it may not visibly light up, but if it's not burned out it should pass current through). Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the positive battery terminal, and touch the negative lead of the voltmeter to the input side of the first thing in the circuit. For the sake of this example, I'll guess it's a fuse in the fuse box. Don't disconnect or switch off anything while you're doing this test; you want the circuit complete the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world, the connection between the battery and the fuse is a solid conductor, and since electricity follows the path of least resistance most of it should go through the wire and not the voltmeter, resulting in a reading of damn near zero volts. In practice, the conductor is not perfect, and readings in the 0.2 V neighborhood are expected and fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the connection were bad, the resistance would be higher than it should be and more current would pass through the meter looking for a path through. In this case the voltage reading would be higher -- 0.5 V or more -- indicating that something flaky is happening between the two leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the first segment tests good, move down the circuit to the next component. Test the voltage drop across the two fuse terminals. Then test between the fuse and the backup switch, then test across the switch, then test between the switch and the bulb socket. If you can find any connectors or test points along the circuit, use them to help narrow down the suspect area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the positive side doesn't reveal anything, start testing again from the negative battery terminal to the chassis, chassis to wiring harness ground bolt, ground bolt to bulb socket, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really useful to do the voltage drop test directly across the bulb because the bulb is expected to have resistance and a large voltage drop (that's how it works, after all). But I'm guessing the fault is an area of high resistance in the circuit, and if that's the case you'll certainly find it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19814" LastEditorUserId="19814" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T01:15:21.470" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T01:15:21.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34897" CreationDate="2016-08-09T01:35:00.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found the problem.  Was a blown relay labeled &quot;IG1&quot;.  Thanks all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21411" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T01:35:00.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34993" CreationDate="2016-08-09T01:52:08.963" Score="3" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Subaru started overheating; it had run out of coolant completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I refilled the coolant, the car ran about a 1.2k mile trip just fine without any overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, the car started doing it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to periodically open the radiator and dump more coolant in every 300 miles or it will begin to overheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the time has come where I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;have to&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; drive 1k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a new car waiting for me at the end of that 1k drive and all I need to do is make this trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other alternative will be $1000 atleast; replacing the head gasket at a mechanic is $1700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mechanic has actually looked at the engine, so I'm just assuming this is a head gasket based on the symptoms and the fact that is has overheated previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best course of action? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;urgent&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and needs to be fixed right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use Subaru Coolant System Conditioner to seal the leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I don't care if I obliterate the engine by getting there. The car is almost scrap at this point having nearly been totaled with repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21479" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T13:56:34.880" Title="Subaru 2002 Impreza 2.5 TS - Head Gasket" Tags="|subaru|cooling-system|radiator|head-gasket|impreza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34992" CreationDate="2016-08-09T02:15:02.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the best course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure out where the coolant is going. Here are &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drain your oil and change it, and the oil filter too. Look for signs of coolant in the old oil. If you see coolant there, good chance it's the head gasket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your exhaust for white smoke. If the engine is burning coolant, good chance it's the head gasket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's no white smoke and none in your oil it has to be going &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt;. Go down to your local auto parts store, grab some UV coolant dye and a UV flashlight (you can usually buy leak detection kits with a cheap flashlight and eye protection) and throw it in. Run the engine. Look for signs of coolant leaking. The dye will make it easier to see. If you're losing coolant around the exhaust manifold good chance it's the head gasket. But it could be coming from other places. Be sure to also check inside the passenger compartment, particularly on the floor under the dash. If there's coolant there it could be the heater core.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When checking for coolant leaks, park over top of something that won't absorb (and therefore hide) puddles, and rev up the engine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/32453/9884&quot;&gt;I learned this the annoying way&lt;/a&gt; (btw, if it gives you hope, that issue ended up costing &amp;lt; 90 USD in parts and about 20 minutes in labor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also check your coolant reserve tank; if it's overfull (like all your coolant is ending up in the tank but not making it back into the radiator) could be an issue with the tank, some hoses, or perhaps the radiator cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this something that is urgent and needs to be fixed right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on where it's leaking from and how costly and inconvenient it is to constantly be dumping coolant into your tank. Also the more you overheat your engine, even if you stop driving right away, the more you risk even more (and expensive) damage. I definitely wouldn't drive it 1000 miles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, even if you don't care about the car, you run this risk of being stranded somewhere if the vehicle breaks down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use Subaru Coolant System Conditioner to seal the leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe? I'm not familiar with that product but apparently it is a relabeled version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Holts-LOYRW2R-Radweld-RW2R-250ml/dp/B000X2CR74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Holt's RadWeld&lt;/a&gt;, which seems to get a decent amount of praise all over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing where the leak is it's hard to say. It probably won't hurt but it may not help. I've used similar products (the Prestone stuff) with success for &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; leaks but losing all your coolant every 300 miles doesn't seem tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first step is to find the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T02:33:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2016-08-09T03:18:44.983" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you don't use any vehicle for a wile you are going to have issues of not getting to start but the type of unit could be the difference like the scooters for instance or motorcycles will be the worst of all. the scooter will be the carburetor, electrical and lots more. Get a new battery and have the carburetor rebuilt. It might be the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21481" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T03:18:44.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-09T03:47:20.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy special &quot;wrench-off oil filters&quot; which have a nut on top allowing you to remove them easily with a socket wrench. A quick search suggests they're not significantly more expensive than normal filters. This is probably the easiest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T03:47:20.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35000" CreationDate="2016-08-09T06:27:27.127" Score="4" ViewCount="1978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to read the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on my 2005 Honda Accord from the cruise control port (port 14P, located behind the steering wheel)--when the cruise control unit is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the cruise control unit attached, the VSS toggles between 0~4.5V. When the cruise control unit is not attached, it only reads between 0~0.02V (and is too noisy to be useable). So it appears something in the cruise control unit is informing the ECM to relay the signal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are the 2005 Honda Accord cruise control system and wiring diagrams. Pin 12 is the VSS from the ECM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any ideas or suggestions I'd really appreciate hearing them! Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lutlu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lutlu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5mH6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5mH6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastActivityDate="2018-06-09T16:53:54.790" Title="Reading Vehicle Speed Sensor on 2005 Honda Accord from Cruise Control Unit Port" Tags="|honda|accord|electronics|cruise-control|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34982" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:55:48.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you test the new thermostat in a clear glass with hot water from a kettle? did you actually see it open when you poured hot water into the glass?&#xA;you could have tested the old one first, how do you know you have the right thermostat for the engine? Are the cooling fans/fan working when the engine gets to hot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21365" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:55:48.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34997" CreationDate="2016-08-09T12:21:30.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The VSS input pin is probably pulled high by the CCU.  The ECM/PCM VSS output can probably only pull it low.  If this is the case, you would expect to see what you are seeing.  You could use a 10k resistor to pull the CCU input to 4.5V and then see if it starts to work as you expect, but I wouldn't recommend doing something like this unless you know what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T12:21:30.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:26:10.647" Score="-3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know fuel consumption of the following vehicles per kilometer;-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(1) Toyota Hilux&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(2) Toyota Land Cruiser&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(3) Nissan Navarra&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(4) Mitsubishi Canter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible I would also like to know the fuel consumption per kilometer for the  different models of vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21489" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T16:30:23.207" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T17:33:30.017" Title="consumption rate" Tags="|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-10T08:02:17.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:46:34.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're unintentionally overtightening the filter. When installing the new filter, oil the rubber gasket, then turn the filter onto the threaded mounting boss, just until the gasket touches the engine's sealing surface. Mark the side or the crown of the filter with a marker, or a dab of paint or correction fluid. Gently turn the filter further, by hand, until the filter has been tightened precisely to the specification listed on the filter. If necessary, use a band wrench or strap wrench to achieve that specification. Most filters are tightened 3/4 of a turn, past the point of first contact between rubber gasket, and sealing surface. Go no further than that specification. To remove a filter, use a steel band wrench, which self-adjusts to the correct size of the filter. For stubborn filters, use a cap wrench, which fits the fluted crown of the filter, and is driven by your 3/8&quot; drive ratchet. In extreme cases, a large set of water pump pliers may be used, to grip and turn the filter off.&#xA;Avoid generic filters. Their cases are made of thinner metal, and the filter media are substandard. Use a brand name filter, like AC, Fram, or Motorcraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T13:46:34.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34992" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:56:34.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the advice given by an earlier correspondent: Seek alternate forms of transport, to get yourself to the new car which awaits you. You risk stranding yourself, and having to deal with junking your old car, in an unfamiliar location, in the middle of a trip. Take a bus, or a train; rent a car, or fly.&#xA;Your old Subaru is not worth fussing with, since you have a new car anyway.&#xA;You've got a classic blown head gasket (2.5 engine), and maybe head warpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T13:56:34.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34986" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:10:00.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As multigrade oil ages, the polymeric additive package breaks down, reducing the oil's ability to lubricate across a wide variety of temperatures. A 10w30 oil will eventually revert to the original 10 weight base stock. Utterly useless in warm season operation. No matter what oil you use, it accumulates contaminants, its detergents degrade, and by the time the 3000 mile mark is reached, the engine is being bathed in dirty, compromised oil. Use synthetic oil if you wish, but given its cost, and the necessity of timely oil changes, the costs may outweigh the benefits. A top quality conventional motor oil, with a 3000 mile oil and filter change interval,&#xA;is your most economical choice for long engine life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:10:00.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34978" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:42:35.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say the specific engine in your car but assuming it's one of the 1.9 TDI's, I'd say it's definitely a bad idea to run with the fuel return &quot;to air&quot; or blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Bora (Jetta IV) 1.9 TDI PD130 which has a &quot;fuel cooler&quot; fitted in the fuel return line under the front floor pan.  Doing some research on this, I discovered the reason it's there is that the fuel returned from the engine is so hot that it would melt straight through the plastic fuel tank if returned uncooled.  Add this to the fact that fuel is moving around the system at massive amounts of pressure and running with a severed / blocked fuel return line is a recipe for disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:42:35.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34965" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:45:16.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an emergency brake drum cast into the rotor, the emergency brake may not be releasing, on that side. It could be a seized cable, or a seized actuator lever. Have a helper apply and release the emergency brake, while you watch the cable which feeds that wheel. If there is no movement of that cable, and no sound of movement in the drum area, your emergency brake may be failing to release. This is an unpleasant situation, because until that tension is released, the rotor will not easily come off. You'll have to hammer that rotor off, using a 5 pound hand sledge, and then replace the rotor and the frozen cable. Some parts stores will rent you a large three-jaw puller, and if you can find one, you may be able to pull that rotor off the hub, using that method.&#xA;If you can see the cable moving, as it applies and releases tension, your emergency brake shoes may not be the issue. The rotor may be frozen to the hub. As others have said, spray WD 40 (or the like) around the rotor/hub connection, and rap on the face of the hub portion of the rotor, repeatedly. In stubborn cases, heat from a torch may be necessary, while you hammer at the hub portion of the rotor, to break the rust seal. Keep a fire extinguisher and clean rags handy, to control flare ups, as the torch hits the volatile WD 40 residue.&#xA;Some of these combination rotors are equipped with threaded removal holes, in the face of the hub portion of the rotor. If yours are so equipped, thread a proper bolt into the hole, and gently turn the bolt inward,  as you tap around the rotor with a hammer. This may pop the rust seal between rotor and hub. The name of this game is patience, and persistence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:45:16.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34929" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:51:49.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, Yes. Leaving the old filter on, contaminates the new oil, with the old oil already in the filter. An old filter's ability to do its job, is already compromised. New oil requires a new filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:51:49.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34929" CreationDate="2016-08-09T15:17:28.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know plenty of people who only change the filter on every second change. The companies of course would insist that you buy lot of stuff from them, so they can't also be really trusted. When i change my oil filter it seems pretty clean however i am sure that i can't measure how clogged/used the filter is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filter is crucial element of the oil circuit. A failure of the filter is dangerous for your engine, especially when it ruptures on the outside while you are on a highway. The filter is not very costly. When you try replacing it on only every second oil change it could happen that you forget it on the second oil change and it gets used for 3-4 oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, it is up to you. Given the low cost and peace of mind i would change it on every oil change. For your situation: You could try to open a used one and take a look to see it is clogged or lot of gunk inside. If you use a modern synthetic oil with low change intervals i would think about skipping some change cycle otherwise i would just replace it on every oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T16:01:00.257" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:01:00.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:14:53.080" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;04 Honda Accord EX doesn't start. Only the dash board lights up when turning the ignition. While nothing happens with the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days prior, I took the car to Advance auto store...ran battery, alternator, and starter tests. The conclusion of all that was everything tested good. Hours prior to the tests, I had starting problems; but the car somehow managed to start and I immediately drove it to Advance auto. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the tests came back good, the tech person did a drain test  (of the battery). That test resulted in a reading of 1.50 amps with everything off/disconnected and the car in park. So as a temp solution until I get it to a mechanic, I would leave the battery disconnected while parked until I drive it again. I've been driving several days now and as of this morning, I go to reconnect the battery and start the car...and got nothing! Whassup Doc?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21494" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T16:23:49.243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:23:49.243" Title="Starting trouble" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34929" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:17:17.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it's not necessary. But neither is changing the oil either.&#xA;You can just run the engine and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary if you want to maintain a proper service schedule for piece of mind, reliability and resale points. Changing the oil and filter are meant to go hand in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's come at it from another angle.. Lets say you change oil &amp;amp; filter at proper intervals do an additional oil change in between, and skip the filter. Ive been tempted to do so in the past, but I like using good quality Castrol oil. In this case one could argue the filter has not completed a full life's service because the interval was shorter. You might be tempted to think the oil change has done some good, and indeed it would have, but its hard to justify the cost of the oil change when theres still a good half a litre of old oil circulating through plus a filter thats already half used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, when you go to the effort and cost of the oil change, theres no good reason to skip the filter too. Buy your filter online ahead of time and they hardly cost a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:17:17.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35010" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:23:29.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The start motor solenoid can start to work intermittently. Sounds like this could be the case for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try starting the car by going from &quot;on&quot; to &quot;start&quot; repeatedly until you hear the starter engage. This just keeps powering up that solenoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear a click when doing this.. That is a working solenoid, and indicates a flat battery. I don't think this is what's happening in your case though. So just try turning to &quot;start&quot; repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can become &quot;stuck&quot; and i had success tapping it with the handle of a hammer before.. This will need someone holding the key to the start position for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:23:29.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35001" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:33:30.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best choice would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fuelly.com&lt;/a&gt;. It shows MPG (miles per gallon) units by default but you can switch that to whatever suits you best (for example L/100km). Here are the cars you were asking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/hilux&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota Hilux&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/land_cruiser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota Land Cruiser&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/nissan/navarra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nissan Navara&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuelly.com/car/mitsubishi/canter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mitsubishi Canter&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fueleconomy.gov&lt;/a&gt;. But that's mostly for the US. It has pretty reliable results. It shows rate in MPG but you can change that in &quot;personalize&quot; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of the car models you were asking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/35596.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota Land Cruiser&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/29525.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nissan Frontier (aka. Navara)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/29753.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toyota 4Runner (similar to Hilux)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mitsubishi Canter - can't find it...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take a look at some mobile apps, like for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kajda.fuelio&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuelio: Gas log &amp;amp; costs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21472" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T17:33:30.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35024" CreationDate="2016-08-09T18:09:40.983" Score="4" ViewCount="1789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a shop and picked up a &quot;refurbished&quot; alternator.  I saw the work area and noticed that they seem to partially spray paint the stators on their refurbished alternators.  Mainly the main body and a bit of the wiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering why they would do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T05:44:18.360" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T05:44:18.360" Title="Why spraypaint a stator when refurbishing an alternator?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35025" CreationDate="2016-08-09T18:23:15.927" Score="4" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a &quot;refurbished&quot; alternator and while visually inspecting it noticed that some of the stator wires had spots of missing insulation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLvzj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLvzj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stator body and parts of it's wiring &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35014/why-spraypaint-a-stator-when-refurbishing-an-alternator&quot;&gt;have been spray painted black&lt;/a&gt;, and you can clearly see bare wire where the insulation and paint have come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to me like a potential problem, and I'm thinking I should probably just return the alternator without even installing it ( it has a six month warranty ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What specific problems might this missing insulation cause, and am I correct in thinking I should not accept this alternator and ask for a different one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T22:47:55.903" Title="What is the effect of flaking stator wire insulation?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12757" CreationDate="2016-08-09T19:36:54.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 stated in the comments, good shocks will make a whooshing type noise when going over speed bumps, which is created by the fluid rushing through the shock valves. This is completely normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, considering the age of your vehicle, it is highly unlikely that your shocks are blown out unless you have been driving on extremely rough roads  for long periods of time, or live in an extreme weather environment (think Death Valley with sand storms and a pinch of locusts type of extreme).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than noise, the best way to see if your shocks are blown out is feel. Shocks are used to dampen the movement of the spring. A un-dampened spring (spring without a shock) will bounce up and down, slowly oscillating until it comes to a rest. You can test the shock by bouncing all your weight on one corner of the car. If the spring compresses, releases, and stops moving, the shock is functioning properly, if it compresses, releases, and keeps on bouncing without you adding more weight, the shock is no longer restraining the movement of the spring, and needs to be repaired or replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:36:54.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30040" CreationDate="2016-08-09T19:38:19.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a scratch just in the clear coat, then you can wet sand it with 2500 or 3000 grit paper and then use a buffer with a fine polish &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2nYF46P7B2c?list=PL5ZkAEzEbJ_BP6YHcuIST9XrXrRyZmdxT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like in this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's more serious, like down to the plastic you'll need more aggressive sanding together with spot repainting.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://scratchwizard.net/articles/how-to-repair-your-scratched-plastic-bumper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a tutorial on how to do this&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:38:19.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T19:49:47.243" Score="5" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to betray my ignorance of cars but here goes: &#xA;I am a driver from Minnesota (where the lowest octane rating is 87) vacationing in Colorado and have noticed that after I put 85 octane gasoline in my tank I have been experiencing engine knocking and difficulty going up hills. An error message (code P1383 or P1381--can't remember) read from my car's computer mentioned retarded CAM timing. Would this be related? I'm a medical student so I have very little car knowledge; but from my Google searching this seems to be related. Can anyone speak to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21498" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:14:03.853" Title="85 octane gas causing engine knocking and retarded CAM time?" Tags="|engine|camshaft|octane|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35021" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:12:53.907" Score="5" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved into a new house and planned on storing my 2015 Yamaha FZ6R in the garage, but upon moving in I realized one of the A/C units (think window A/C unit, but in the wall) emits all of the exhaust into the garage, making it reach temperatures up to 120 deg F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not only worried about the temperature, but also any humidity that may be coming from the A/C unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I not store it there? Any ideas on making the garage safe to keep it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21499" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T20:33:24.580" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T13:38:12.420" Title="Is it safe to store my FZ6R in a hot garage that an air conditioning unit emits exhaust into?" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|fzr600|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35020" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:37:16.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would not be worried&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your motorcycle will exceed these temperatures by far while running.  Especially beneath the fuel tank which is directly above the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can expect normal operating temperatures well in excess of 180 degrees F beneath the fuel tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to humidity, the AC unit should be draining water removed from the air of the space it is conditioning out of a vent tube outside.  The water from the internal air-conditioned environment should not be effecting the heat exhaust from the wall mounted unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have stored my motorcycles in conditions like this for years at a time and have not noted any adverse effects from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO this is a much better storage solution than the outside environment and is very close to an ideal storage space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:37:16.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12354" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:44:56.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure what happened, maybe it was bad gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a quick update we finally got it to our mechanic which is two hours away. We did end up replacing the battery since it was heavily corroded and after driving to the mechanic it was no longer dying during idle and was running fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:44:56.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21222" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:45:59.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would be concerned with your stator and your battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both your stator and your battery will have additional load on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your stator can feed your batter under these circumstances then the batter may have a bit of a reduced life but can more than likely handle the extra 25 - 30 watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary concern would be the extra heat generated by the stator under these circumstances.  Heat is a bi-product of electric generation, call it waste.  This heat will increase the temperature of the windings and possibly accelerate the decay of the insulation protecting the windings from touching each other and grounding out your stator.  Additionally, your rectifier will experience additional heat and would experience a degraded lifetime as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using LED lights that would consume less wattage and potentially give you increased light and visibility you are attempting to achieve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T20:45:59.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35014" CreationDate="2016-08-09T21:02:41.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a cosmetic thing (which isn't necessarily bad), but the &quot;good&quot; reason for doing this is to renew the insulation on the alternator windings. The stator of the alternator is made up of three coils of densely wound wires with a relatively thin coating of insulation (which allows the wires to be closely packed making for a smaller, higher output, alternator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the insulation is mostly intact then recoating the coils can help to extend the life of the alternator (or motor, same principles apply). A common brand is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glyptal.com/1201tech001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Glyptal&lt;/a&gt; which is a brick red color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T22:59:32.227" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T22:59:32.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35015" CreationDate="2016-08-09T22:47:45.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does not look good, especially as a recently rebuilt alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insulation on the stator keeps the stator from shorting out internally and also prevents the windings from shorting against the case. I would also be concerned that the exposed windings might develop a high resistance (high as in &quot;not likely to start smoking&quot;) short to ground or between phases on the alternator as a result of moisture and atmospheric contamination. A short like that will cause heating and will diminish the alternator output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you would be wise to return it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T22:47:45.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T23:26:27.383" Score="2" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 95 chrysler sebring lxi. The car started jerkin when I stopped at lights if it wasn't running for a while and it would slip out of gear on the freeway, I put some Lucas stop leak into the transmission and it was better for a while and it no longer slips on freeway but now when I start it if I don't warm the car up in neutral before driving it sometimes it dies if I stop, and it jerks as well when trying to stop. I recently did all my fluids so I'm not sure what this could be. I can't afford a mechanic, hoping there's something I can look at or try myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21504" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T00:09:55.793" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:03:51.963" Title="Car wants to die in low RPM when I start it and jerks when stopped if it hasn't warmed up" Tags="|chrysler|stall|sebring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34987" CreationDate="2016-08-10T00:11:15.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another possibility. The radiator could be clogged. I have seen this many times. The easiest way to determine this is to run the car down the road until it starts to overheat. When it does, quickly pull off the road, shut off the engine, open the hood and put your hand on the radiator core. The CORE, not the tanks. You'll have to reach through the cooling fan blades. If the car doesn't have AC you could go from the front of the car, but that would be unusual. Check it in several places if possible. If it is cool to the touch, it is probably stopped up.  It won't show up at idle when less cooling (less flow) is required, but will be an issue at higher speeds/RPM's. The only way to repair this is to replace the radiator. You can try to flush it, but in my experience if it works at all it won't last very long. Good luck! Let us know what works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T00:11:15.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34967" CreationDate="2016-08-10T00:58:12.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with this particular model, but it sounds like a detent issue. If the shifter goes directly into the transmission, all linkages are internal. Some transmissions have plugs on them that hold detent pins, or balls and springs. There are indentations in the shifter shafts, three on each shaft (except possibly the reverse shaft). One for neutral, and one for the gear on either side (1st/2nd). When you push the shifter into a gear, it helps to hold it in place once shifted. There are also detents between the shafts and pins that go through the shafts so that only 1 shaft can move at a time. There are indentations on the sides of the shafts and pins go between the shafts, in the case. They are longer than the hole in the case so that when you shift one shaft, the pin pushes into the indentation in the other shaft keeping it from moving, so you cannot shift two shafts at the same time, which would lock up the transmission. That being said, it sounds like there is not enough lubrication at those pins, or they are worn and getting stuck, binding and not returning when trying to shift the 1st gear shaft. That would be why when you shift the other shaft (1/2 on one shaft, 3/4 on the other) going into third gear, moves the pin and dislodges it. This would also account for it not going into reverse, because the pin at the 3/4 shaft is getting stuck and no other shaft can move. Depending on how it goes together and the amount of room for repairs, it could be done in the car, but more than likely it means taking the transmission out and at least a partial disassembly to check/replace the pins. Let us know what you find out. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T00:58:12.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35019" CreationDate="2016-08-10T01:00:15.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running fuel with a lower octane rating than what your engine needs will cause &quot;knocking&quot; (premature detonation). Colorado has fuel with a lower octane rating because higher altitude reduces the need for octane, but this isn't fool-proof.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine controllers generally deal with knocking by retarding the timing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fix this by either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;returning to 87 octane, if your tank is almost out of 85 octane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are off-the-shelf &quot;octane boosters,&quot; you may want to try some in your tank if you have a lot of that 85 octane left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:00:15.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35026" CreationDate="2016-08-10T01:03:51.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jerking while stopping can be caused by the Idle Air Control Valve. It may need cleaning, or it may need replacing. They can be had for cheap at the junkyard, swap it just to see if it helps. If it does, you can look at your old one and see if a cleaning will help, or replacement by a brand new one, or run the junkyard one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:03:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34945" CreationDate="2016-08-10T01:22:52.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with much of what Moab wrote. Often times when a car gets to the age this one is, all of the connections get worn or dirty and have more resistance than they should. Add heat to a starter, and low voltage won't make the starter solenoid engage. After installing the shields stated above, if it still gives you trouble starting hot, you could wire in a relay that will allow for more voltage to get to the solenoid &quot;exciter&quot; terminal. This will by pass the connections so that the power comes from the battery, through the relay, to the starter. Less connections, more voltage. A three or four pin relay, some spade terminals and a couple of ring terminals, and some 10 gauge wire is all it takes. &#xA;Three pin: grounded through the body of the relay, so it must be bolted to the body of the car, the small exciter wire from the starter goes to the coil/engage pin, battery power from the battery terminal goes to one of the other terminals, and run the other terminal from the relay to the starter terminal.&#xA;Four pin: same as above only you have to make a ground wire to the 4th terminal, going to a ground on the body or engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:22:52.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35034" CreationDate="2016-08-10T02:46:04.957" Score="5" ViewCount="8356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have concluded that my engine has an oil leak and wish to find its source(s).  Upon research and reading several other answers on this site the most practical way to go about this appears to be using a uv dye additive in combination with a black light to pinpoint the areas causing my oil to leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a bad idea to go and start adding things to the oil system of a vehicle, for example if I was low on oil I wouldn't go adding water or some other liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can using the dye for diagnosis cause further damage to seals or other engine components and does it need to be flushed from the engine after the leak(s) are diagnosed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T02:51:38.127" Title="Is the dye used for diagnosing oil leaks harmful to an engine?" Tags="|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35033" CreationDate="2016-08-10T02:51:38.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this is completely fine and what the dye is designed for. You should be able to get a kit at your local auto-parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T02:51:38.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T02:52:52.047" Score="2" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Honda Accord, a few months ago we started having problems with it. All of a sudden the CEL and traction control light came on with the d4 light blinking. Also it would idle low, shift hard, and not go into overdrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a computer check on it and it suggested the speed sensor. We got that changed and nothing was fixed, so we took it to a mechanic and he said it was the computer, and that it just needed to be programmed, and we would have to take it the Honda dealer. The next day the mechanic said that it is now no longer driveable. Now it will start but not respond to the accelerator pedal. You can push the pedal all the way to the floor and the rpms won't even move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also when you turn the car on it goes straight to hot. Anybody have any advice on what could be going on or how we could fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one day we called him he said he had run a bunch of test and was sure that it was the computer, that it just needed too be reprogrammed but he did not have the tool to do it so he said we would have too take it too either a Honda specialist or Honda dealer and since there are no Honda specialist around that left us with only the dealer. So I said okay that's fine when can I come pick it up too take it to the Honda place, he said well I gotta put everything back together I should have ready tomorrow I'll give you a call. Well he never called so the day after that I called back and he told me that now it was no longer running that it won't take gas, he said that it seems like the computer has completely lost the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21507" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-11T10:53:00.980" LastActivityDate="2020-02-21T09:45:21.253" Title="2003 Honda Accord not responding to accelerator" Tags="|honda|accord|electronic-control-module|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34980" CreationDate="2016-08-10T04:02:07.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the key has lost its &quot;sync&quot; to the diversity module.  You can take the module apart (like you already have), and scrub it clean with high strength isopropyl, or even good vodka (but I feel this a waste.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you said it was only dusty, but a good clean won't hurt anything.  Beyond that, it's a dealer-only effort.  This is coded RFID Bavarian voodoo magic beyond my comprehension.  Fob battery or dirty module.  Fixed.  No?  Dealertime and wallet weight loss.  Sorry I don't have an inexpensive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just curious, have you put the fob directly on the rear glass to see if that makes a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T04:02:07.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T06:22:47.947" Score="3" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roughly a week ago the lighting in the AC controls and the headlight adjustment stopped working so now its impossible to adjust it at night. It all works... its just the lighting. well the headlight adjustment doesnt work at all and theyre stuck in the lowest position. could it just be a fuse or?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kristoffer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21508" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T06:39:19.097" Title="Citroen C4 2.0 HDI 2005, Lighting in ac controls and headlight adjustment not working" Tags="|ac|citroen|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35037" CreationDate="2016-08-10T06:39:19.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they both stopped working at the same time, it could be a fuse or a loose electrical connection at the dimmer switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they stopped working separately, it could be as simple as a burnt out bulb in your AC control panel, and the switch went bad separately. The bulbs are inexpensive to replace, but those AC control panels can often be a pain to remove. Since they sit in the center of the vehicle, some vehicles have the screws for them hidden by other trim pieces and you end-up disassembling half the cabin just to get to 2 to 4 screws. :( Find a maintenance manual for your vehicle, it will tell you how to remove the AC control panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T06:39:19.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T07:51:28.380" Score="0" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 LX 1.9 citroen berlingo mk1 panel van(M49)&#xA;For quite a while the ignition has had to be turned 3-4 times, before the circuit responds, and fires the starter, the igntion sw wiring , and starter solenoid have been replaced, but not the sw itself.&#xA; Yesterday i went to the vehicle, and on turning the igntion switch on, the orange heater plug light came on for a flash second, there was an audible click from under the bonnet nearside, and although the engine turns over, it refuses to start, i have checked all fuses, and cleaned all visible earthing points, any suggestions or help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21510" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:13:01.580" Title="starting problem citroen berlingo van" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T08:20:12.303" Score="1" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an oil change on my car as well as a new air filter. Later in the day the power steering dropped and started whining. When I checked the reservoir, it was empty! Just wondering if an oil change technician somehow damaged the pump! Is this a possibility, or just coincidence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21511" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T14:38:57.333" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T14:38:57.333" Title="2007 Saturn Aura power steering fluid loss" Tags="|saturn|aura|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T08:32:06.077" Score="4" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the photo of my sprocket. After adjusting the chain slack and axle, I can still hear a bit of grinding sound. Maybe because the chain is hitting the outer side of the sprocket (you can see the smooth sides of sprocket teeth). It appears to be a bit loose but I have no idea how to tighten those bolts. I mean do i tighten the 2 bolts on the side or do I need a special tool for the center thing. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZHBF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hZHBF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21512" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:58:35.017" Title="How do i tighten my sprocket with these bolts?" Tags="|motorcycle|suzuki|sprocket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35020" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:38:12.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relax:&lt;/strong&gt; Nothing will happen to the motorcycle,they are designed to withstand a lot more than you are mentioning here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I dont think you will run the A/C 24*7 for 365 days right? so you dont even have to bother about it, in the winter you will probably switch off the A/C so your issue is only for like the summer and some parts of other season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a tropical country where temperatures are usually near 100 to 115 degrees. I have had 3 motorcycles and not one time the issue was because of sitting in a hot place. The only issue I noticed once on a friend's motorcycle was that some paint came off but that I think is because of bad quality paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my motorcycles sometimes stand in direct sunlight for hours together with no consequences at all apart from a very hot saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T13:38:12.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35019" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:08:58.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/35030/9884&quot;&gt;tlhIngan's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mix fuels of different octanes (actually, it's not unusual for a gas station to have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/gas-pump4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blend valve&lt;/a&gt; to get the mid level octane fuel to eliminate the need for additional underground tanks). The new octane is a linear combination, you can calculate it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;% fuel x * octane x + % fuel y * octane y&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you've got a half tank of 85 and you fill up the rest with 89 you'll end up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5 * 85 + 0.5 * 89 = a full tank of 87.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got 3/4 tank of 85 and you top it off with 93 you'll end up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.75 * 85 + 0.25 * 93 = a full tank of 87.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you've still got a lot of 85 left in your tank just fill it up with something higher and it should correct the issue (presuming that's the issue, but it is a reasonable and likely explanation) once it runs through a bit. You don't really need additives, or to wait until your tank is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:14:03.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35039" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:13:01.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to offer something solid here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use old faithful process of elimination, and disconnect the wiring from the switch, and manually hotwire it. This would prove the switch is contacting adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, are you sure the battery is ok? Maybe check the battery clamps are tight, clean, and battery posts free of acid corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:13:01.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:43:46.980" Score="2" ViewCount="3171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1999 camry. Just replaced bearing  and axle.  Now when pressing brake it makes a fast clicking sound and  the brake pedal jumps. What would  cause this????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21516" LastEditorUserId="15074" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T21:05:29.293" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T21:05:29.293" Title="Pressing brake makes a fast clicking sound and the brake pedal jumps" Tags="|toyota|brakes|camry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:43:55.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for rust holes in your cab. Even pinhole leaks can admit exhaust gases. Look for small holes in your firewall, or degraded rubber gaskets for cables, wires, etc., as they pass through the firewall. Check for rust holes in the floor, under the rubber matting.&#xA;As a vehicle moves down the road, it creates a vacuum, and exhaust gases get sucked forwards, back under the truck. Any leaks in the exhaust system, no matter how small, can get sucked up into the cab. Check your exhaust manifold for a bad gasket, or hairline cracks. Listen closely for leak sounds at the manifold.&#xA;Were the components of your exhaust system assembled using hi-temp exhaust sealant paste? Often, a seemingly airtight joint, will have small leaks. Both slip joints, and flanged joints, are prone to this problem. Often exhaust gases will slip through an open window, too. Drive with windows closed, and with windows open. Any difference in your headache? Is your exhaust system stock? Does the system end under the bed, or does it extend all the way to the back of the truck, as it should? Are the rolled assembly joints on the muffler itself, tight and leak-free?&#xA;Outgassing of plastics is probably not an issue. The truck is too old.&#xA;Listen for exhaust leaks with both a cold engine, and a hot engine. Expansion and contraction of metals, joints, etc., can open up or close down system leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:43:55.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34882" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:53:35.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't cut corners. If the car is unsafe, stop driving it. Your safety is the most important priority. When you've got the money to do all the work, have it done by a reputable shop. Any ball joint or tie rod replacement, makes an alignment necessary. Note: Ask the shop to use ball joints/tie rod ends with grease fittings on them, if they are available for your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:53:35.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35041" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:58:35.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot actually tighten it to the shaft, those 2 bolts just hold the retainer plate, this is all that keeps the sprocket from coming off. Once the plate is removed you can slide the sprocket off of the output shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sprocket and output shaft are machined for a tight slip fit, so if there is play either the sprocket is worn, the output shaft is worn or both. Remove the Sprocket and inspect for wear, replace worn part(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:58:35.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34913" CreationDate="2016-08-10T15:13:46.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar in my 1977 Volkswagen Polo and traced the problem to the combination of an overcharging alternator and a hole in the battery compartment meaning gasses from the battery were coming into the cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things which could be causing this including a leaking fuel tank and a leaking exhaust system.  Please do treat this problem as urgent as becoming unconscious at the wheel whilst driving could have catastrophic consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T15:13:46.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T15:39:24.427" Score="3" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1992 Geo metro with automatic transmission does not shift automatically, but it works fine shifting manually.  The transmission shop check says the transmission is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21517" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T21:09:06.757" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:09:06.757" Title="My 1992 Geo metro w/auto transmission does not shift automatically, but works fine shifting manually" Tags="|automatic-transmission|manual-transmission|shifting|geo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34879" CreationDate="2016-08-10T15:53:04.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what references you have regarding the &quot;rheostat&quot; device..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On these cars the steering wheel is connected to the Infotainment databus (a CANbus) and the stereo is also connected to the Infotainment CANbus on pins 9/10 (CAN high/low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to check if you have connected the android head unit's CANbus connection, or if even it is compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The unit is compatible and even refers to &quot;steering wheel control&quot;. This is connected to the car via the quad lock connector, pins 9-10. Very common across the VW/Audi range. So I am quite sure on this. The steering wheel sends messages on the databus with a certain address and the relevant button press data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to trace the wires from those pins and make sure you have the wires connected up. Outside of that, engage the product support because it should 'just work'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastEditorUserId="17586" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T10:27:39.937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T10:27:39.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35052" CreationDate="2016-08-10T17:33:19.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That transmission stores codes for troubleshooting purposes. I suggest you get the codes read first to see if this helps diagnose the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a complicated transmission to diagnose, I suggest you find a competent transmission shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Cx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Cx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJ59m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJ59m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B73Bw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B73Bw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMFIy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMFIy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T17:33:19.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T18:50:47.423" Score="6" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it doesn't save fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Auto&quot; mode sends some power to the rear wheels a little, coming from a full stop, even if no slippage is detected, so it gives that nice &quot;RWD push&quot; feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2WD mode seems to &quot;feel&quot; a bit lighter on the engine, but it tends to spin the front wheels on hard take offs, and give that oversteer tendency when turning while accelerating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there any practical reason to use the car's FWD only mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9VLH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9VLH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T03:08:33.860" Title="My AWD car has a FWD option. Why/When would/should I use FWD?" Tags="|awd|fwd|2wd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35056" CreationDate="2016-08-10T19:07:44.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When comparing FWD to RWD, they each have their separate advantages: RWD is better off the line (as you've testified to), and FWD is better while maneuvering in and out of places with horrible traction (like parking in or leaving a snowdrift). But if AWD is an option, it does provide the best traction, albeit at the cost of some fuel economy and added wear to the diff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T19:07:44.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33587" CreationDate="2016-08-10T19:17:06.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to dlu for the first tip. From the dealer specs I was able to locate the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dorman - Autograde 29323 Double Ended Stud - M8-1.25 x 18mm and M8-1.25 x 17mm&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000DCO42U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autograde-29323-Double-M8-1-25/dp/B000DCO42U&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a pack of 2 at Advance for like $5 and they worked perfectly. Only difference is you'll have to screw the two nuts on to install the stud. If you don't have the fancy hex bit on the OEM ends you'd be going this route anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T19:17:06.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33585" CreationDate="2016-08-10T19:18:55.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of research, I decided to start by trying a pair of vice-grips on what was left of the stud. I cranked them down real tight, and it came right out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that didn't work I'd have been going down the route of drilling, welding, or other more terrible options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T19:18:55.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35062" CreationDate="2016-08-10T21:47:26.437" Score="8" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have too much slack in my parking brake. I was changing my rear drum brakes, when I was having some difficulty reattaching my parking brake line to the parking brake lever. Somehow I ended up pushing on the line, and I ended up being able to pull out about another 2 inches of slack. Now my parking brake won't engage, I can't fix it by turning the adjuster located at the parking brake handle because it's still loose at its max setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 99 Saturn SC2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T22:28:54.667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T00:17:31.977" Title="Slack in Parking Brake Line" Tags="|brakes|saturn|parking-brake|sc2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35061" CreationDate="2016-08-11T00:17:31.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its possible the cable got pushed out of the equalizer bar. Check cable connections on both ends of the cables, inside the drum and the equalizer bar. Also be sure the parking brake bar inside the drum is installed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equalizer bar image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRWyA.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRWyA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake drum cable&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2ZhG.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2ZhG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T00:17:31.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35056" CreationDate="2016-08-11T03:08:33.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically part time 4WD is not the same as AWD. Part time 4WD will actually lock the front and rear axles together, not providing a differential between them to handle the speed differences between front and rear wheels while turning. As such driving a part time 4WD in 4WD on pavement is a great way to break things. Auto is intended to give you 4WD when it's safe to do so without destroying your drive train as you take turns. It's best with a part time 4WD vehicle to use 4WD when the need arises, and use 2WD most of the time. AWD (or full-time 4WD) vehicles are always sending power (with varying distribution depending on manufacturer and conditions) to all four wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems awfully strange that a part time 4WD would be FWD then in 2WD mode, as most part time 4WD vehicles are trucks. Are you sure it's FWD in 2WD mode? Also, if you're spinning your tires from a stop when it's dry, you should probably learn to adjust your driving habits or get better tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, on to your car. You really should've told us make and model, as that would've been useful information for an answer tailored to your vehicle. Luckily I was able to find this on the Nissan website without much effort:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ALL MODE 4X4-i* switch gives you a choice of three different drive modes for the optimum distribution of power. 2WD mode shifts power to the front wheels for fuel-efficient city driving. In AUTO mode, the X-TRAIL analyzes the terrain as you drive and precisely distributes the right amount of torque to each wheel for the best handling on any surface. If you need extra grip, LOCK mode fixes torque at the optimum front-rear ratio for confident 4x4 handling in snow, sand and rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it has the capability of both a locking and differential behavior between front and rear, so it's certainly designed to operate either way. Provided your tires match, it might be beneficial not only for traction, but also more even tire wear to stick with the auto 4x4-i mode in normal driving. When the standard drive wheels are rear, there are several reasons to use 2WD only. When the standard drive wheels are front I cannot come up with any reason to run 2WD other than when running on a donut or with mismatched tires between the front and rear axles. Note the claim here is that 2WD is for efficiency in stop-and-go driving, which disagrees with your assessment that there is no difference in fuel economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T03:08:33.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35066" CreationDate="2016-08-11T06:16:10.597" Score="2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car: Ford Laser 1990&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I kept my headlight on for a week and my car's battery was drained out.&#xA;The mechanic kick started and I kept the car &quot;on&quot; for an hour to get it charged.&#xA;After 3 days it didn't started again (I made sure everything was off which might drain the battery), kick started drove the car for an hour to get it charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the mechanic showed a trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before starting the car press the accelerator 5-6 times quickly and then start the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it works fine!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what was the reason of battery getting down (Although my mechanic says the battery is very much fine) and why it gets started instantly when I press accelerator multiple times before starting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21524" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T12:12:39.973" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T12:12:39.973" Title="Car starts if I press accelerator multiple times. Battery drains otherwise!" Tags="|electrical|battery|car|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35047" CreationDate="2016-08-11T09:12:15.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an ABS wire connected to the strut. It goes to a sensor located just within the spindle (This is why you have the gear like notches on the axle). This wire should run up into the fender well to the ABS computer. If you damaged the wire the ABS will literally freak out and this is one of the first symptoms. A visual inspection first, and then a computer analysis to test functionality should yield results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to that, I would make sure you followed standard caliper/pad/rotor replacement protocol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease caliper pins upon reassembly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a torque wrench to ensure you haven't over torqued anything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that all parts marked for a specific side went on that specific side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you installed pads with the indicator strips on the correct side. This will often cause a loud clicking and can cause ABS to fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T09:12:15.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35064" CreationDate="2016-08-11T09:54:55.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did the car not crank at all?&#xA;Is your car equipped with a carburetor rather than Fuel Injection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &quot;trick&quot; was used on carburetor cars because it will actuate the &quot;Accelerator Pump&quot; on the carburetor (If it has one) and dump some fuel in the intake, making it easier to start. This does nothing on EFI cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your car might just need a simple carburetor clean up and tune-up.&#xA;It shouldn't be needed to do that &quot;trick&quot;, specially on a 1990 carburetor car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor#Accelerator_pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor#Accelerator_pump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21527" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T09:54:55.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T10:02:34.113" Score="2" ViewCount="56883" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past 2 weeks my battery light has been flickering when ever the engine is turned on. It happens pretty constantly. about every 10 minutes or so, the power seems to cut out for half of a second, Not the engine, but all the lights. Whilst this happens the gauges on my dashboard drop and then shoot all the way up for about 5 seconds then go back to normal. I am planning to be going on a road trip next month so I would want this to be fixed asap. If it's something I can personally fix then that's amazing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21528" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T12:13:03.793" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T23:04:54.770" Title="Battery light flickering" Tags="|electrical|ford|battery|escape|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35067" CreationDate="2016-08-11T10:37:58.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say your alternator is dying. You could also have a suspect battery but either could be easily tested at an auto-electrician (hopefully for free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a multimeter then you could test the alternator output yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternator should be powering the car and instruments when running, so given this is a symptom when the car is running, then I am going to bet the alternator is not delivering the right voltage, or at least not reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will aid you for further reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T10:37:58.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35064" CreationDate="2016-08-11T10:53:30.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I very much doubt that the battery is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving headlights on (a large load) across a battery for a week will result in a complete discharge of the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may charge to a state where the battery can start a car immediately after being charged, but it will have lost a very large amount of its capacity and essentially hold charge for a short amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the stepping on the accelerator has nothing to do with the battery's ability to start the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much reading about battery technology can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_and_prolong_lead_acid_batteries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_restore_and_prolong_lead_acid_batteries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to save you the effort, in short, keep a lead acid battery fully charged and charge it once a week (even without something draining it) to keep the battery's normal lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T10:53:30.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35067" CreationDate="2016-08-11T11:31:40.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bad alternator or battery is by far worse case scenario. When troubleshooting you should always start with the easiest and/or cheapest solution. These are more than often the culprits anyways, so best to save time and money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if there is a date sticker on the top of your battery. If it is more than 3 years old, have it tested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A visual check of your positive and negative battery cable should be first after the above, best part is it's free! You are looking for corrosion where the cable meets the battery (White dust on cable at the battery). If the cables have white dust on them, then the ends of the cables and the battery post need to be cleaned. A wire brush will do for cleaning. DO NOT BREATH IN DUST while cleaning. They sell $2 battery terminal cleaners at ever auto parts store as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If cables and battery are clean, then you should make sure everything is tight. Try to move the cables at the battery, they should be firmly attached. Then follow the cables to their respective opposite ends. Start at the top near the battery and follow cables to other end. Check for a loose connection. If loose tighten. Take care when using metal tools on the &lt;strong&gt;Positive cable&lt;/strong&gt;, you can ground the battery out or worse. Only touch the bolt you are tightening on the Positive side. The negative side doesn't matter. Red is positive, black is negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If everything is clean and tight you should move on to the fuse box. Make sure none of the fuses are loose. Touch the tops with your finger and try to wiggle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the basics pass the test, then go to any major auto parts chain and have them run a load test on your battery in addition to a charging test on the alternator. These can both be done with the parts still on your car in the parking lot. Takes about 8 minutes. No need to go to an &quot;auto-electrician&quot;, again this is overkill and worse case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally fix? Ready to be amazed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily fix any issue with your car with the wealth of knowledge available on the net and YouTube. Alternators are relatively easy to change. If you need tools go to Google Maps and type &quot;Harbor Freight&quot;, then go there. Their hand tools are pretty good, are better than auto parts store tools and have a lifetime warranty. Go get you some tools with the money you save by fixing your own car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21530" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T11:31:40.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26934" CreationDate="2016-08-11T11:58:30.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would surely pull the valve cover and scope down to the timing chain tensioner and the plastic runner that it presses against. You can see the top of the guide with a flashlight, but not the bottom with the chain on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at the top guide that the chain slides over, it is held in place by two 10mm bolts if I recall correctly. If the plastic isn't on top, the chain has too much free play. If all plastic guides are there but there is still play in the chain then it is time to get out the big socket and change the tensioner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is at the right mileage to have given up the ghost on any of the plastics. Not too long after either of these stop functioning and a valve job is in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21530" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T11:58:30.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33549" CreationDate="2016-08-11T12:12:07.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to get a reliable equation without knowing model specific details! This is not going to happen. Even if you know all the specifics of a particular engine, you are still only going to get so close to the actual VE. Steve Racer hit it on the head. Every EVERYTHING is different. One 6.2L engine built right behind another is not going to behave the same as the one before or the one after. HP numbers, torque curves, etc.. will be all over the place straight from the factory. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21530" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T12:12:07.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T13:55:11.810" Score="2" ViewCount="3463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live I've seen a few hybrid '07/'08 Lexus RX400h in very good condition. The reason I haven't looked at them is because I'm wary of the &lt;em&gt;hybrid&lt;/em&gt; technology; I simply don't want to mess with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to disable or remove the hybrid from Lexus RX400h so that I don't have to deal with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21533" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T14:42:35.657" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:42:35.657" Title="Can &quot;hybrid&quot; be removed/disabled from Lexus RX400h?" Tags="|toyota|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-12T00:25:24.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6821" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:14:35.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6821/upgrading-the-bluetooth-audio-on-2012-honda-civic#comment8394_6821&quot;&gt;crasic's old comments&lt;/a&gt;. Bluetooth capabilities are usually integrated into the entertainment system / stereo head unit. This was as true in 2013 as it is now (moreso now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On vehicles where this is all custom fancy in-dash stuff instead of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_7736&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 7736  standard slots&lt;/a&gt;, you either have to hope that the manufacturer or a third-party made some custom upgrades, or do some creative and probably-difficult-or-impossible engineering to rip out the old system and cram something better in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like crasic said, the best bet if you've got a car with a funky built-in Bluetooth interface is to purchase a better one that you can connect to the aux input (or if you're lucky, your entertainment system might have some aux or other custom inputs on the back that you can tap into, do some research to see if it has any sort of accessory inputs, or you could get creative with your audio wiring). You'd have to possibly sacrifice some conveniences like the steering wheel buttons or auto volume control, so look at adapters and judge if the trade-off is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:14:35.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35073" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:28:02.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have not yet purchased a hybrid vehicle and do not want a hybrid equipped vehicle can I reasonably suggest you purchase a non-hybrid vehicle.  If you like the RX400h, perhaps an RX300 would suit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically it would be possible to remove hybrid technology from a hybrid equipped vehicle but this would be very time consuming and costly.  It is not possible to remove hybrid technology from a hybrid vehicle without &quot;mess[ing] with&quot; hybrid technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T14:28:02.667" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8642" CreationDate="2016-08-11T14:35:43.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently you simply cannot unlock it. If you hunt around on forums, you'll see it was, and still is, a pretty big discussion topic. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/275-3rd-generation-2011/344856-2011-sienna-how-look-up-destinations-nav-while-driving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from this discussion about the 2011 model&lt;/a&gt; (product links removed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;jsrober&lt;/strong&gt; writes:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, that topic has been discussed to death. Just about everyone hated that &quot;lockout&quot; feature in Toyota's GPS system... however, Toyota swears by it. The &quot;older&quot; generation has a hidden &quot;unlock&quot; key to enable the GPS to work while driving but, of course, when Toyota updated their system they promptly rid of that hidden key. The only way to use it while driving now is to install an aftermarket device for about $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user &lt;strong&gt;Luu&lt;/strong&gt; posted a response from Toyota on the issue, here is a rather unsatisfying excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We are sorry to hear of your dissatisfaction that many features of the navigation system in your Sienna are disabled while the vehicle is in motion. Our intention is to help avoid a situation in which the system may distract a driver and endanger lives. While we understand that it would be useful for front seat passengers to able to operate the navigation while the vehicle is in motion. However, if the front seat passenger was allowed to operate the system when the vehicle is in motion, there is no integrated safety system to prevent the driver from also being able to do so due to the current design of the passenger occupant detection system whereby a driver could place sufficient weight on the passenger seat to simulate the presence of a passenger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topics on other forums follow the same path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, this issue is apparently so annoying to consumers that there's even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotaoverride.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an entire website dedicated to protesting it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it seems folks have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/333-3rd-generation-2014/904858-mod-2015-highlander-navi-phone-lockout-bypass.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discovered a means to bypass the system on certain newer models&lt;/a&gt; (I also found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EegvJSc10d4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, a hack to tricking the system into thinking you are parked). I cannot say if that works on older models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some patience, luck, and engineering finesse, you might be able to dig into your own system to try and discover exactly how speed / lockout information is communicated from the vehicle's sensors to the navigation unit and find a way to intercept it. However, if it is GPS based info and internal to the unit, that may not be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It pretty much appears you're SOL unless you go with an after-market system, or the newer model hacks work for the older vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T16:51:28.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:51:28.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10987" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:07:21.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the info you've posted seems to point to a failed ECU. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It works fine for the first 10 km or so, then it'll suddenly stop accelerating, as if I weren't even pressing the pedal, and I have to restart the machine and it'd work again, for at least other 100-500 meters before failing again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could well be explained by a confused ECU intentionally putting the vehicle into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_throttle_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;limp mode&lt;/a&gt;, and getting reset each time you &quot;reboot&quot; the vehicle. This can also be explained by a faulty TPS except:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... the last one, however, noted that it was receving bad signals from almost all sensors ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which suggests that the issue is more far-reaching than the TPS or any individual sensors, and really looks like a higher level ECU issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the lack of error codes showing up on prior scans, with a failing ECU all bets are really off as far as what it reports to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general thing to try here (and ultimate solution if it's really the issue) is to swap out the ECU module with a known good one, perhaps from a salvage yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T15:07:21.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35105" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:25:56.750" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car won't start, no sound, no click, nothing, but all power is on, and the remote start will start the car, but not the key. What could be the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21538" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T15:49:53.777" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:39:11.013" Title="1997 Chevy Camaro, remote start works but key does not" Tags="|electrical|starting|power|camaro|remote-start|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35079" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:48:09.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the ignition switch, but it could possibly be a fuse.  A couple things to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check any fuses related to starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would start by removing the steering column cover so you can access the ignition switch and wiring.  Get a test light or multimeter and verify you are getting power in.  Turn the switch to various positions and verify you are getting power out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not getting power in, the issue is before the switch (likely a fuse).  If you are not getting power out, the switch is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could grab a switch from the junkyard and swap it in to see if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T15:48:09.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:09:38.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want is probably not what you'd like, see Paulster2's comment. What you are looking for might already exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most modern vehicles, the head unit has an &quot;always on&quot; power lead and a switched power lead. The always-on power allows the head unit to retain memory and do graceful shutdowns or disconnects on optical disks, USB and Bluetooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this power lead does not exist on your model vehicle, create one by running a lead from the battery to the dash. Place a fuse in the lead near the battery junction, so the majority of the run is fused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbO72.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbO72.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inline fuse&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:09:38.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27512" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:25:39.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds exactly like a slipped timing belt to me. Honda spec'ed replacement every 105,000 miles back in 2004, they usually have some reserve, but I would never let one go more than 200K miles. How long has it been since the last timing belt replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing it might be affordable with one caveat- this is an interference engine. If a cam has only shifted one notch, it might be fine. If the valves are bent, the engine (and vehicle) is a write-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:25:39.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3503" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:29:42.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For first generation Honda Pilots, the common cause of roof leaks is the screw holes of the standard equipment roof rails. They should be removed, the roof and rail mounts cleaned, and then replaced using an automotive seal product such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005RNFBMC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Dynatron 550 Auto Seam Sealer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u1Mz0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u1Mz0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tube of 3M Dynatron 550&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:29:42.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11831" CreationDate="2016-08-11T17:22:39.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can gather the 2005 and 2008 wiring are the same, you may want to validate further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the pinout for the radio connector.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMa61.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMa61.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T17:22:39.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34883" CreationDate="2016-08-11T17:51:34.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Primary Reason for Excessive Soot in Diesel Dragsters is Incomplete Combustion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind regarding diesel dragsters is that they do not use any emissions equipment to more effectively burn unburned fuel and oil contained in diesel fuel which is essentially kerosene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Emissions devices NOT on a diesel dragster&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exhaust Gas Re-circulation devices or EGR's are absent&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation catalyst devices are absent&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DEF injection systems where ammonium or urea are injected into the system as an fluid are absent&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, excessive valve overlap is tuned into the system to ensure the intake charge flushes the combustion chamber of exhaust gasses.  These leads to excessive unburned fuel escaping from the exhaust valve and into the atmosphere, this unburned fuel is partially burned in the exhaust and is turned into DEP (diesel exhaust particles) which are primarily just carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what you see with the thick black smoke from diesel dragsters, carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T17:51:34.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33731" CreationDate="2016-08-11T18:04:09.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are multiple possibilities that could cause the issues you describe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A severely clogged air filter.   If your air filter is clogged then you will be pulling less air into your engine and therefore increase your ratio of fuel and air that is being burned in your motor.  This can lead to a very rich (too much fuel and not enough air) condition which would explain your fouled spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a check engine light on you may have an issue with your MAF (mass airflow sensor) or an oxygen sensor that COULD be leading to your rich condition which fouled your spark plugs initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the possibility that your catalytic converter (a component of your exhaust system that burns unburned fuel) may be clogged from your fuel richness issue.  This would further exacerbate your issue of a rough idle and foulded spark plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T18:04:09.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33428" CreationDate="2016-08-11T18:19:45.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fault code is related to your TPS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your TPS is a throttle position sensor.  The fault code is not necessarily indicative of a broken wire although it could be.  It sounds as though you have validated some of the wiring to your ECU but there are some additional checks you can perform to ensure that the issue is indeed your TPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check your wiring FROM your TPS to your ECE for continuity&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disconnect your battery and see if the code comes back.  Perhaps by disconnecting some of your devices and reconnecting them you have created a better connection between connectors and solved the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the connection points from the TPS to your main harness&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these additional options work I would flow to procuring a new TPS, it's located on the side of your carburetor where the butterfly shaft exits on the left side of the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T18:19:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34886" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:16:55.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very well can be a bad battery even though the lights come on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting the car is the single hardest thing (draws a lot of amperage) for the battery to do. If it is becoming weak, it will become harder and harder for it to crank the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lights and other accessories may still work because they draw less amperage (which the battery can still support). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the battery to have it load tested. That will determine if it is still good or not. If it is, then you need to start looking at the battery leads (large gauge wires) that go to ground and to the starter. If they are damaged or corroded badly, they can prevent proper amperage draw for the starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you said it starts with jumper cables, it is most likely a bad battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T19:16:55.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:26:28.010" Score="4" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing an oil change on my 2009 Kawasaki Ninja (250cc). In the new oil filter package there are two gaskets: one large one (goes on the bottom of oil filter tray), and one small one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure where the small one goes... any ideas? I didn't see a small one on the old filter. Should I just leave it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(gaskets shown at bottom of image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRI1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRI1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T19:38:55.667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:35:14.550" Title="Where does this oil filter gasket go?" Tags="|motorcycle|kawasaki|oil-filter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34886" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:43:36.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As CharlieRB pointed out, just because the lights come on doesn't mean the battery is ok.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, there are a few other things it could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the battery is OK, but is not being charged sufficiently by the alternator.  It could also be that the battery and alternator are ok, but that you could have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;what is called voltage drop&lt;/a&gt;.  This means that the wire between the battery and starter is developing high resistance for some reason, and is not allowing sufficient amps to get to the starter.  You could also have a starter problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to figure this out yourself, you should go out and get a cheap multimeter.  Basically, you should see 12.65 volts with the car off, and over 14 volts with the car running and no loads turned on.  You should also watch the multimeter while someone else cranks the car and see that the voltage doesn't drop below about 10 volts while cranking.  If those things are OK, do a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfLyh43iihM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;voltage drop test&lt;/a&gt;.  Connect the red lead to the battery positive, and the black lead to the opposite end of the cable going to the starter and iirc you should not see anything larger than about 0.7 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COJr7OB23Hw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;testing a battery with a multimeter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a starter problem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm119948.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;which you can read about here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T20:27:44.963" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:27:44.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:50:23.450" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana Van. The radiator fluid is backing up to the over flow container. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,what can be my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put new thermostat in and flushed the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any additional troubleshooting steps I can enact to discover what the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21545" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T19:55:40.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:08:04.993" Title="Engine reversing water to the over flow container" Tags="|cooling-system|radiator|pontiac|overheating|montana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35079" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:56:31.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the factory wiring diagram, so there are several possibilities why it will not start with the key. If it has an aftermarket remote start system this can make diagnosis more complicated depending on how it was integrated into the starting circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XN2e0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XN2e0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T19:56:31.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35091" CreationDate="2016-08-11T19:59:31.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely it is a head gasket leaking or a cracked cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a combustion leak detector to find out if it is the exhaust gases leaking into the cooling system causing your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0007ZDRUI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T20:08:04.993" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:08:04.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35111" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:11:04.430" Score="18" ViewCount="7718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a very hot climate where temperatures regularly touch 45 deg C and the heat in the engine bay area means that under-hood wires, especially the thinner ones, endure high levels of thermal fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, when working on older cars (10+ years) I am very apprehensive about flexing any wiring in the engine bay area in case I introduce a break (and a new headache). This includes wires for things like coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, coil and injector power supply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that one can do to delay the onset of wire embrittlement? Would it help if manufacturers use a different grade/gauge of wire to help with longevity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T06:00:54.433" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T02:08:58.843" Title="What can I do to combat wire embrittlement?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|heat|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:13:28.727" Score="9" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving my car on I - 70 and all of a sudden the oil light was flicking on and off the check engine light had been on already but the car started to lose speed and no rpms showed while I tryed to pull over by speeding up I heard a light noise under the hood  before a loud pop then a huge cloud of black and grey smoke came out from under my hood I pulled over and after the smoke cleared I looked under the hood there was oil all over almost everything. I hope it's just a hose but I have not had the chance to look due to the car being towed away for two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21543" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:48:58.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T11:24:38.997" Title="2004 Subaru Forester black smoke oil not accelerating" Tags="|subaru|oil-leak|forester|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35096" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:32:37.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you 'windowed the block'.  When you lost oil pressure, you were at highway speed, so your engine was spinning decently fast, and every revolution without oil does more damage.  I think the light noise was rod knock and lifter tick, the pop was the rod breaking and making a hole in the block, and the cloud was the oil that was left in the engine, now exiting the engine and burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, I am wrong and overlooked some possibility that doesn't result in the engine being completely destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:32:37.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37483" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:33:57.993" Score="3" ViewCount="30256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey that has recently developed an annoying habit of having its alarm go off unnecessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no discernable pattern for when the alarm goes off - it has happened in several different locations, at different times of the day and different temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have owned this car since 2009, but this has only become a problem a month or so ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the alarm is a factory-installed one and not an after-market.  When it goes off it honks the horn and flashes the headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is not happening due to accidental actuation of the keyfob - the alarm just went off now and all I have is the physical key - the keyfob is on my wife's keychain several miles away.  Having said that I did change the keyfob battery last week, but that didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car battery &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be OK.  It is a nice Interstate-branded battery and is less than 2 years old, and appears to start the engine with no difficulty.  (I will get the battery checked out when I get a chance though).  Update - I just had the battery checked at the local parts store and apparently its fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched google and found that a similar problem is often caused by a faulty hood-latch switch.  I used these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeN8pwxyAhk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube instructions&lt;/a&gt; last night to disconnect this hood-latch switch, but the alarm still went off in the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this and how could it be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Currently the SRS light (for airbags) is illuminated on the dashboard while the engine is running.  I'm not sure how long this has been the case - normally my wife drives this car.  I did get the airbag replaced under the highly-publicised recall a year ago or so.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The front bumper came off in a parking-related incident a month ago.  Because this is just a daily driver/commuter vehicle we didn't bother with a new bumper, but just had the bodyshop reattach the old bumper (a bit scratched) along with the black plastic covering that goes underneath the radiator area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastEditorUserId="11239" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:49:37.370" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T13:50:14.047" Title="Honda Odyssey alarm goes off randomly" Tags="|honda|key|alarm|odyssey|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35089" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:35:14.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it... &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wSVu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wSVu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;faq.ninja250.org/images/d/d9/4Winterize.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small O-Ring goes where the oil filter bolt meets the oil-filter tray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:35:14.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:36:56.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure in your application, but would bet if you just jumped your two wires, you'd be providing power to all of everything hung off of the ACC. I think I'd just plumb a hot lead off of your fuse box and run hot to your head unit directly and not mix the ACC into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:36:56.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35098" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:43:26.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the wiring diagram and all sensors (switches) that could be faulty. You could disconnect the connector from the Drivers Mutiplex Control Unit and test the sensors wires to ground, there should be no continuity to ground with all doors, hood closed. Unfortunately I don't have a location for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yVkDX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yVkDX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T20:52:09.130" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:52:09.130" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T20:57:21.697" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I park my car and turn it off, I usually select first gear, pull the parking brake, kill the engine, and then release the clutch pedal. I did this because I thought it would keep the car from rolling when parked, in case the parking brake somehow failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have recently read on multiple forums that you should leave the car in neutral when you park. Is there any danger of leaving the car in first while parked? While it damage the car? Should it be in neutral?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20198" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T20:57:21.697" Title="Should I put my car in first when parked?" Tags="|manual-transmission|shifting|parking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-11T21:47:05.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35095" CreationDate="2016-08-11T21:10:59.893" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat and thermal stress, even at engine bay temperatures, is not generally the cause of copper wire failure. There is &quot;hydrogen embrittlement&quot; for copper but that only really comes into play at 400C+ in hydrogen-rich environments, usually during annealing. Also, the 20-30C higher range from your hotter climate is pretty negligible from copper's point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper's linear thermal expansion coefficient is roughly 17 micrometers / meter / degree C (off the top of my head, you can look it up though). It's very negligible in the lengths found in most wiring applications and especially negligible when the wire is just hanging there with plenty of space to expand/contract without inducing mechanical stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper is also specifically chosen for wiring because of its high tensile strength and great durability, not just its high electrical conductivity. Aluminum, for example, is a lot cheaper, makes perfectly fine wiring, but has a lower tensile strength and higher thermal expansion coefficient, meaning extra care needs to be taken to managing it (aluminum's big advantage is cost and weight; they use it in a lot of long distance overhead wires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper also has a high thermal conductivity, meaning &quot;hot spots&quot; in wires tend to even out quickly, reducing internal stresses due to uneven expansion. It also has a fairly high resistance to corrosion from environmental factors like moisture and oxygen, although of course it is not immune and this can be an issue over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a way, copper &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the solution to the types of stresses that wiring generally undergoes in an environment like an engine bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary failure modes of wiring are usually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Insulation failure: Cracking insulation leading to shorts that &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get hot enough to melt copper. Insulation failures can be caused by heat, UV, environmental factors and degradation, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Galvanic corrosion at connection points: Aluminum, steel and zinc will generally corrode when in electrical contact with copper. Copper will generally corrode when in contact with stainless steel or brass. This can weaken connections over time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation: While copper is pretty resistant to oxidation, it still happens over time (e.g. the Statue of Liberty is green, and you can certainly spot lots of corrosion in exposed copper wires in aging vehicles) (actually copper oxides aren't green but ultimately they turn into green copper carbonates/sulfates like malachite and such). The corroded copper is much more brittle than the metal. Obviously, wiring with more surface area, such as stranded wiring, will have a bigger issue. Also if the insulation is cracked or permeable to oxygen, that's another potential source.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Edit - I guess mechanical fatigue is worth mentioning too, perhaps due to past abuse during maintenance or fatigue due to vibrations in really unfortunately placed wiring. Copper's pretty resilient to this but certainly not immune.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oxidation is probably the issue that'll cause you the most problems over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from all that I would say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manufacturers are already doing the right thing just by using copper to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might be able to slow it down by e.g. spraying good insulation onto exposed points but... there may not be much to improve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a vehicle that already has heavily corroded wiring there's nothing you can do to reverse it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get used to old wiring breaking as a fact of life and budget time for wiring replacements after a visual inspection of the state it's in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using thicker wire wouldn't &lt;em&gt;hurt&lt;/em&gt; but may not help. More importantly, &lt;strong&gt;use wiring with good, flexible insulation rated for outdoor environments and engine bay temperatures.&lt;/strong&gt; Silicone is a good choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T12:57:29.373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T12:57:29.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35096" CreationDate="2016-08-11T21:30:12.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son had an engine failure on a 2015 WRX, same exact symptoms, connecting rod broke and punched through the engine block on the top side, breaking open an oil galley. 10K mistake after playing with turbo boost, ouch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyYBb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyYBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKhwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKhwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:30:12.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35079" CreationDate="2016-08-11T22:39:11.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was wondering if the neutral safety switch (auto) or clutch start switch (manual) is out (depending on your tranny). Your remote start would not be factory (didn't make them factory). It could be installed to bypass the neutral safety/clutch start, in fact if it is a manual car, it would be wired that way so you wouldn't have to have the clutch depressed to get it to start. Really, that's where I'd start your diagnostic. It seems like the most reasonable place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:39:11.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34941" CreationDate="2016-08-11T23:35:50.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that if the engine is up to operating temperature the filter will be much easier to remove than with a cold engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21548" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T23:35:50.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34877" CreationDate="2016-08-11T23:57:05.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a speaker type sound.. Is there an old alarm siren fitted somewhere that could be causing this? If so try unplugging it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T23:57:05.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7617" CreationDate="2016-08-12T00:38:37.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is battery shorting and arcing as @mikes says, a shorting battery can also cause engine stumble. Carefully trace the entire path of the Positive leads. A bungee is not sufficient restraint for a battery. Get a proper battery tie-down kit. They are not expensive. This needs to be done even if it is not the cause of the crack sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not the battery, the black smoke and engine stumble is your clue. The engine may be backfiring (igniting excess gasoline backwards through the carb), or afterburning (igniting excess gasoline through the exhaust system), or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterburning and backfiring have several causes. A leaky fuel system is one. Bad ignition time is another, as is bad valvetrain timing.  Check for gasoline smells and washed looking areas along the fuel line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastEditorUserId="13978" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T15:27:44.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:27:44.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35265" CreationDate="2016-08-12T01:11:31.873" Score="4" ViewCount="1997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asked to look at a Lexus ES330. The complaint was the car wouldn't go over 20MPH and would fall on it's face. The ECM was replaced and problem persisted. One coil was replaced around a year prior. Verified the complaint, car was hitting fuel cut and in limp mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check Engine light is on with the codes:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0351&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0352&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0353&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0354&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0355&lt;br&gt;&#xA;P0356&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Codes would set immediately after starting the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a wire loop into the IGN fuse and captured a parade pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow: #6 IGT signal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Red: Ignition Coils, Primary Coils&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAuV4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAuV4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks OK... I verified the secondary was firing with an adjustable spark tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same capture zoomed out, you can observe the ECM stopping the injectors firing as it hits fuel cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDa90.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDa90.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on Toyota's/Lexus's the ECM sends the IGT signal to each coil and in return each coil returns an IGF signal to the PCM in a parade pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ584.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ584.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9OMr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9OMr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I back probed terminal 24 on the E10 connector at the PCM and at the #6 IGF terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0Lbr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0Lbr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the ignitor isn't sending back a good signal. Or it's just noise from the IGT signal/primary coil ramping and the ignitor is not sending back a signal at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IGF vs #6 IGT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhWYZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhWYZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question. Why would all 6 coil ignitors fail at once? A power surge? A bad PCM driver? What would be a good test to determine the root cause of the failures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard tell of this happening, but have never run into this until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T23:26:55.277" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:28:44.800" Title="04 Lexus ES330 Multiple Ignition Coil Failures / Poor Coil Feedback Signal" Tags="|toyota|lexus|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T01:31:06.200" Score="2" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;06 chevy trailblazer. vibration and slight humming sound in front end starting at 30mph getting louder with speed of vehicle but engine speed dont matter, have shifted into neutral same sound. gets alot louder over 50mph . at first thought it was just went turning to the left or going straight which led me to believe it as passenger side wheel bearing, ( replaced that no change) but now I noticed I hear the vibration no matter left or right turn or straight ahead. can feel slight vibration in brake pedal and thru steering wheel. sound kinds of reminds me of a truck running real rough knobby tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21550" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T01:31:06.200" Title="06 chevy trailblazer vibration and humming in front end" Tags="|frontend|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35095" CreationDate="2016-08-12T02:58:46.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very short answer is that heat isn't a significant problem for the &lt;em&gt;wire&lt;/em&gt;. Heat is a problem for the &lt;em&gt;insulation&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have wires failing I think there is something else going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with dealing with failing insulation is that there isn't much you can do about it – short of rewiring the affected parts. In a modern car that could be a non-trivial project. As Agent_L mentioned there are good high temperature insulation materials, but retrofitting them isn't really practical in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few practical things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heat shrink tubing, though this usually requires reterminating the wire since most heat shrink won't shrink enough to fit over most connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Electrical tape, it's not elegant, but it can be effective and is relatively easy to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Paint on&quot; electrical tape – I've never used the stuff, but it is available and it might work well in some applications, I think it would do a better job of excluding moisture than tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the affected area is small and the car is old one of the easier approaches might be to replace the section of the wiring harness, or to rebuild it. If the car is old then I wouldn't even worry too much about getting better wire, unless it is a classic, as the replacement wire will last for many years before it fails.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T00:35:15.267" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T00:35:15.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35117" CreationDate="2016-08-12T04:52:13.593" Score="8" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://koenigsegg.com/regera/&quot;&gt;Koenigsegg Regera&lt;/a&gt; is Koenigsegg's newest car, and is a &lt;em&gt;hybrid&lt;/em&gt;. However, unlike other &quot;hypercars,&quot; like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flatsixes.com/cars/porsche-vs-porsche/porsche-918-spyder-vs-mclaren-p1-vs-ferrari-laferrari-the-holy-trinity/&quot;&gt;Holy Trinity&lt;/a&gt;, the Koenigsegg doesn't have a gearbox. I'm assuming that it uses some sum of motors to get the car moving off the line, and also uses a motor to &quot;spin up&quot; the engine, so it doesn't need a gearbox, but is this how it actually works? How can such a high performance car work without a gearbox? I feel like there's some torque converter in there somewhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20198" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T07:28:21.780" Title="How does the Koenigsegg Regera work?" Tags="|transmission|hybrid|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35114" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:14:06.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bumper is a part of a car designed to reduce damage to the car in the event of a minor collision. Front and rear bumpers are required by law for on-road vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were invented in 1901 by the British inventor Frederick Richard Simms. They were originally made of metal, then plastic and modern cars use PC/ABS (PolyCarbonate and Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read the Wikipedia article on bumpers &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bumper_(car)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T08:58:11.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T08:58:11.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35115" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:14:06.363" Score="0" Body="A bumper is a part of a car designed to reduce damage to the car in the event of a minor collision." OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T08:58:03.273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T08:58:03.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35096" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:18:29.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on a nissan primera P12 (144hp, diesel, year 2002) , i was going at 130km/h ( 80-82mph) on a highway, &quot;fell&quot; into a concrete hole on the road , and the engine started losing power, then all the engine light went on, black some started coming out of the exhaust, oil temp started goin up so i turned off the engine on the roadside,  and some very weird noises were coming from the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow, the big &quot;fall&quot; onto the hole broke the pieces that keep the oil filter bottom cap attached, oil went everywhere and one of the rods got a fissure, but they told me that engine stress can cause it too on very high temperatures.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They didn't found until they cleaned the engine and saw my car's bottom, so that's a place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it's not the same, because it was expensive as hell and i decided to change my car for good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21553" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T06:18:29.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35113" CreationDate="2016-08-12T07:28:21.780" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you have posted the link to the website, where they explain it, and also give this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeRgx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeRgx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three E-motors. Two on the axes, and one on the same shaft as the combustion motor (C-motor), which connects to the axes via a hydraulic coupling and a differential with a ratio of 2.73&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's play with that numbers. The C-motor has its red line at 8250RPM, so it turns the axes at  8250RPM/2.73=3022RPM. The rear wheel dimensions are &lt;code&gt;345/30 R20 Y&lt;/code&gt;, which means they have a circumference of 2.17m. So, at max RPM, the car does 2.17m * 3022RPM = 6558m/min or 393km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't state a top speed, but they write something like 20s from 0 to 400km/h. So it is feasible that the C-motor is connected to the axes via a 2.73 ratio differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the car would drive at 47km/h when the motor is at 1000RPM...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is also written in the text of the website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Koenigsegg has developed a clutch-slip mechanism that uses the hydraulic coupling to convert torque at medium/high speeds during fast acceleration. This allows the combustion engine to gain revs and power, thereby giving the sensation of a traditional downshift with the associated aural enjoyment, even without the traditional gearbox. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to your original question is: They do have a torque converter like most other automatic cars, just a bit bigger / more sophisticated, so it can replace a gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I wonder why the put that third E-motor onto the shaft of the C-motor - a torque converter always steals some power, i.e. fuel/battery. But I guess that doesn't matter here, people are interested in peak performance, not efficiency / endurance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T07:28:21.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35095" CreationDate="2016-08-12T07:31:16.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;embrittlement&quot;, are you talking about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasticizer#/media/File:Plastic_lamp_cord_-_brittle_after_50_yrs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NJ2R7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common issue with PVC used as insulation: PVC is brittle by nature an needs plasticizers to be added to it when making cable insulation. Over time, plasticizers evaporate (remember that &quot;new car smell&quot; which gradually goes away?), brittling the PVC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything that one can do to delay the onset of wire embrittlement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could keep your car in the garage and not under sunlight / rain. That will reduce both copper corrosion and insulation embrittlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it help if manufacturers use a different grade/gauge of wire to help with longevity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, using bigger copper gauge and thicker insulation would make wires more robust. Also, replacing PVC insulation with a more robust one (XLPE or similar) would also help. Since it would also be more expensive at no benefit to the manufacturers, they wouldn't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11548" LastEditorUserId="11548" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T07:56:58.420" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T07:56:58.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34850" CreationDate="2016-08-12T08:21:36.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;seems being a newbie on this site, i have confused the system. Sorry.&#xA;So now I have most of the answer - the inlet camshaft had siezed and this one has the sensor on it hence why the system dissabled the fuel pump and thus sent me off on a wild goose chase!. On first investigation, looking in the oil filler I saw the exhaust camshaft rotating so thought all is well in there- so again another diversion.&#xA;Now, my question is - assumong the oil feed is blocked up to the camshaft bearing - how can I clear it?.  With an air line perhaps?&#xA;Any ideas?thanks&#xA;geoff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21370" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T08:21:36.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T08:30:52.467" Score="2" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if you can get aftermarket steering wheel controls fitted for my 2012 Polo?  Knowing VW it'll be a gazillion pounds if it is even an option. By fitted I mean actually integrated and not strapped onto the steering wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T10:50:49.403" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T10:50:49.403" Title="fitting steering wheel controls to polo mk5" Tags="|vw|audio|steering-wheel|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T09:09:43.333" Score="4" ViewCount="3358" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a long shot. So, I have a &lt;code&gt;Renault Megane 2&lt;/code&gt;, with a &lt;code&gt;2.0l Diesel&lt;/code&gt; engine with theoretical &lt;code&gt;150hp&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;340Nm&lt;/code&gt; of torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that worries me is that when I push the pedal, it just takes some time to respond. It's like lack of torque and only get reasonable power at 2200 rpm, while in the specs sheet of the engine, I should get and appreciable power starting at 1500 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be causing the lag (and loss of power maybe)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Additional information:  At idle, the engine vibrates, quite a bit, but don't know if it has something to with the problem above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 The car is from 2007 with the 2.0L Diesel M9R. It has 150 000 km (~93 000 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Went to a specialized workshop and they found an error on the on-board computer. It indicated that it was a malfunction of some magnetic valve of the turbo. They cleaned the valve and nothing changed. They even tried a new valve without any success. Their conclusion was that the problem is from the turbo not functioning properly, which means either get this turbo fixed or get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the problem isn't the turbo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21554" LastEditorUserId="21554" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T09:37:18.917" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T09:37:18.917" Title="Lag at accelerating and/or loss of power" Tags="|engine|diesel|power|renault|megane|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35120" CreationDate="2016-08-12T09:27:41.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to add a MFSW (Multi Function Steering Wheel) or, depending on the design of your steering wheel, add just the buttons and control module.  It will require some research and some scouring of ebay and some VW forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some late model Volkswagen cars, you can add a Golf GTI steering wheel and then fit the following parts;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5K0 953 549 B&lt;/strong&gt; (electronic control module on steering column for my(model year)2011 models. The std. &lt;strong&gt;5K0 953 549 C&lt;/strong&gt; is not enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5K0 998 537 B&lt;/strong&gt; (MF buttons plate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5K0 971 584 A&lt;/strong&gt; (airbag cable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5K0 959 542&lt;/strong&gt; (control module INSIDE the steering wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've fitted these you need to adjust some settings in your ECU to switch on the control module and surpress any errors that may be generated by the wiper stalks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may additionally need a wiring harness.  These are vehicle year specific and there is some confusion about which is required for which model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5k0 953 569 K&lt;/strong&gt; (which has been now replaced with &lt;strong&gt;5k0 953 569 G&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the module &lt;strong&gt;1K0 953 549 CD&lt;/strong&gt; should be ok for cars up to my2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;module &lt;strong&gt;5k0 953 569 G&lt;/strong&gt; may or may not be for my2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the definitive parts list but should be a good starting point.  I've personally not fitted them as my 2012 Golf came from the factory with a MFSW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note about my (model year) on Volkswagen.  It runs from Sept / Oct so my 2003 Bora is a my2004 car.  You can decode the sticker in the boot to establish the full model year of your car.  You can actually work out the day on which it was built from that sticker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start my further research &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5002442-Adding-MFSW-Buttons-to-Base-2011-GTI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and maybe take a look at some threads on clubpolo.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T09:27:41.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4837" CreationDate="2016-08-12T10:45:23.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make your own delivery system. Go to your local hardware store and purchase a weed and insect 2 gallon pump pressure container. You will then cut the sprayer hose off at the tank. You then need approximately 6 feet of fuel line that will slide over the tank fitting and over the rail fitting. You will need to remove the valve from inside the rail fitting with a tire valve tool. Don't forget to relieve the pressure first and remove the relay switch. Use two small hose clamps to keep the hose on the to ends. Add the Thru-Rail Fuel Cleaner in the tank and pump the pressure up until firm amount of pressure. Start your vehicle and run the cleaner. I have used this way to clean my injectors every 50,000 miles and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21558" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T10:45:23.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35096" CreationDate="2016-08-12T11:24:38.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you mentioned both black and grey smoke (the latter probably steam), my guess is that the gasket between de block and the cylinder head has been blown out. &#xA;The black smoke is oil burning, the grey is cooling fluids evaporating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be real cheap getting this fixed, or rather expensive. Nothing in between, unfortunately. &#xA;The reason is that it depends if any damage has been done (the cylinder head can bend due to sudden cooling off caused by the evaporating cooling fluids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's hope this isn't the case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21559" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T11:24:38.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35153" CreationDate="2016-08-12T13:22:21.303" Score="3" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my Toyota Corolla in to a dealer-based service center for a wheel bearing replacement. They took the liberty of also testing my battery for some reason, and told me that it did not pass the test. They quoted me around $150 for the factory Toyota battery, but told me that other third party batteries could cost less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are there any major differences between a stock factory (in this case, Toyota) battery, or a different third party battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This dealer is known for scare-tactic style things. They tried to do this with my brake rotors, telling me they would pass inspection but were dangerously rusted. My Dad and I confirmed that they're actually fine. I do believe the battery test, as the car is 10 years old at this point, and I don't know if the battery was ever changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21560" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T14:00:43.943" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T04:44:17.960" Title="Are there major differences between a third party and manufacturer battery?" Tags="|toyota|battery|corolla|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T13:55:18.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Kia Rio. I have been doing my own oil changes since after the first one by the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not kept the receipts to the oil I have purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something goes wrong down the road can I be denied warranty service because of holes in my maintenance record? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16037" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T22:40:10.363" Title="Self oil changes on warranty" Tags="|oil-change|warranty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-13T04:25:25.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35126" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:00:21.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on where you live. The major thing is did you keep record of when you did the oil changes and what the mileage was at the time. Also, if the warranty item in question has nothing to do with scheduled maintenance, there is not issue whatsoever. &lt;strong&gt;Here in the US, yes they can deny you warranty coverage for your vehicle if you cannot prove the maintenance schedule has been done.&lt;/strong&gt; They cannot, however, deny you the right to do maintenance on your own vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this applies to the US only. Other countries have their own laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:00:21.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35143" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:01:40.940" Score="4" ViewCount="7412" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/35109/675&quot;&gt;Today I learnt&lt;/a&gt; that some engine management setups demand a feedback signal from the ignition coil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9OMr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9OMr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toyota/Lexus Ignition Diagrams&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it do with the signal though? Is it just for diagnostics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T06:07:38.457" Title="How is ignition coil feedback useful?" Tags="|engine-theory|ignition-coil|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35128" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:16:45.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ignition confirmation signal is a comeback signal to the ECM. This tells the computer a successful spark has occurred: the coil has launched it's goods. When the signal fails, the computer knows there's an issue with the coil or the ignition circuit and will send a fault code, then notify the driver with the glorious check engine light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:16:45.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:25:45.067" Score="4" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a motorcycle sitting and it wouldn't start. After charging the battery and using fuel injector cleaner, the motor stays running but only in neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called my local repair shop and the mechanic said the problem is that I've been using gasoline. I can see how maybe sediment gets the engine dirty but he wouldn't tell me how to fix it and said that his shop doesn't do that specific work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motorcycle is a Yamaha V-Star 250.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21563" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T00:34:22.337" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T12:13:57.567" Title="Motorcycle won't stay on when in gear" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|ignition|yamaha|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35132" CreationDate="2016-08-12T15:18:14.063" Score="7" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of head light bulbs manufacturers and types, but I've seen some claim to be able to provide &lt;code&gt;50% more light&lt;/code&gt;. Well, if the voltage that gets to the light bulb is always the same, for more light, the light bulb must have less resistance and the current in consequence will be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question(s)&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this type of light bulbs damage any part of the wiring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And will their life time be shorter than normal ones? (This might be a silly question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21554" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T02:52:34.013" Title="Head light bulbs" Tags="|electrical|headlight|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35131" CreationDate="2016-08-12T15:27:46.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bulb in question is the same fitment as the original (is just a higher wattage or whatever), then it should cause no issues with the wiring. I believe the main differences can be linked back to what type of gas is used inside the bulb and what filament is used to produce the light. Some are going to be hotter than others, no doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, if you look on the back of a pack of bulbs (thinking of Sylvania bulbs), it will tell you how they differ from other bulbs of the same type made by them. Usually I've seen the ones which claim to be brighter show to last less time than OEM style bulbs, but the brightness far outshines the originals. Here is one of the Sylvania charts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6tyQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6tyQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see on the left side in the product description how long they are supposed to last. That is a general idea and you'll have a different experience, but it'll let you know what you can expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:27:46.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T16:00:11.380" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;The window &amp;amp; door locks are not working on my Golf Extra Drivers side rear door. I suspect a broken common, possibly earth ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers regarding troubleshooting my issue would be appreciated before I go ripping the internal fascia off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to diagnose and remediate this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21565" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T07:41:06.080" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T07:41:06.080" Title="Window &amp; door lock not working on Golf Extra" Tags="|electrical|vw|troubleshooting|golf|switches|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T16:36:58.767" Score="4" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed brakes at local auto garage. On first drive around the town and local road brakes heated up to almost red smoke was coming and I was worried that tires will get on fire, you could hear the clicking sound that metal makes. I know it's normal for brakes to heat up on few first drives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I did second major drive (~140 miles). At first I was driving through the city and brakes heated up to the point where smoke was coming as I could smell it. Then I got to motorway at around 70 mph my Cadillac CTS suddenly started vibrating so I bumped the up speed and it went away. After driving for 30 minutes or so I dropped speed back to 70, and vibrations were gone. Upon arrival I checked the brakes by spitting and they were hot but not too much just slight hissing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it safe to drive (or should I go moan to auto garage about this)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T16:36:58.767" Title="Pulsating brakes and vibrating car after pad replacement (that later went away), should I continue driving?" Tags="|brakes|heat|cadillac|brake-pad|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T17:54:46.000" Score="5" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 A4 1.8 TFSI Basically, I need a new engine. On searching I have been told a CABA Engine will fit even though my engine is CDHA. I have been offered two CABA engines but can't find any CDHA engines so am now wondering if I can just replace with one of CABA engines?? Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21568" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T13:56:12.330" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T13:56:12.330" Title="AUDI A4 2009 1.8 TFSI engine compatibility (swapping engines)" Tags="|engine|audi|a4|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31994" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:04:42.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do this through generic OBD-II. Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acceptable OBD-II queries by mode&lt;/a&gt;. There is nothing there to provide information about how the vehicle is constructed. That's not to say that some manufacturers may not have proprietary undocumented commands, but those aren't generally available, and certainly can't be relied on to be present, or used safely in all situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense. The modules you identify, while their presence is a typical solution to various engineering challenges, aren't really &quot;standardized&quot; in any way (sure there may be some commonality between, say, &quot;suspension control modules&quot; in similarily designed vehicles, but, philosophically, at no point was a &quot;suspension control module&quot; ever defined as &quot;a standard, optionally present component of any vehicle&quot;; it's just a vague thing that somehow controls suspension-related things in an arbitrary way in effectively random vehicles -- as opposed to some common optional component with a standardized OBD-II interface and a standardized bit in an ID field somewhere). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Here's some food for thought: What exactly &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a &quot;module&quot;? Anything wrong with saying &quot;this vehicle has a power seat adjustment module&quot;? If so, why? If not, what are the actual implications to your OBD question? You see, it's not as clear cut as you think.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECU is a black box; what happens behind it isn't any of OBD-II's business as long as it conforms and gives meaningful responses to OBD-II queries. This is by design, it allows diagnostics tools to have a huge amount of flexibility and tolerance for a wide variety of vehicle technologies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this info isn't really &lt;em&gt;needed&lt;/em&gt; for diagnostics. OBD-II gives you information that isn't necessarily easy to determine otherwise. It's easy enough for a technician to say &quot;Hey the car I'm working on right now has some sort of traction control management system,&quot; because they hopefully know the basics of the vehicle they're working with. There isn't a driving need to have the car's computer tell them that any more than there is a need for OBD-II to report the exterior paint color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there's a couple things you might be able to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OBD-II can report the VIN (assuming it's been properly set and not e.g. swapped out but not reset) and some info about the ECU name and version. You could perhaps glean some info from the VIN (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/Honda/VIN_Codes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda, for example, encodes various bits of info in their VINs&lt;/a&gt; - from this you could, say, determine with reasonable accuracy if a Honda engine has VTEC [heck, call it a &quot;VTEC module&quot; if you want... doesn't matter] or not), or build up your own database of various vehicles and cross-reference it with VIN/ECU info, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The presence of some PIDs can give hints about certain things:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, if turbocharger related PIDs are present we can deduce that the vehicle probably has a turbocharger (or at least, some related technology where turbocharger parameters still make sense). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another example: We can guess what type of intake sensor it has (MAP vs MAF) based on what is reported (but even that is not for sure, because perhaps the intake uses some not-yet-conceived technology to measure air flow and/or pressure, OBD-II only cares that the ECU provides meaningful values).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do happen to get your hands on some proprietary PIDs or other commands, you can e.g. check the VIN or ECU name first (say, to verify that it is a Mahindra before sending proprietary commands), then make judgments based on what you know about that particular vehicle and the responses to the proprietary codes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, why do you want to know this information? There may be another way to achieve whatever it is you are trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T18:19:13.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:19:13.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35128" CreationDate="2016-08-12T20:21:31.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a still from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/VG3EZJlyjl8?t=44s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ScannerDanner video&lt;/a&gt;, which says the following regarding a 1991 Toyota:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Primary circuit is turned off when the ECU sends a signal to the ignitor on the IGT wire. At the same time, the ignitor sends an IGF signal to the ECU. The ECU feeds voltage to the IGF circuit. The ground for this voltage is momentarily cut when the primary circuit is turned off. The ECU monitors the IGF signal and detects if the primary was switched on and off. After sending a command to turn off the primary circuit on the IGT wire, the ECU monitors the IGF circuit to ensure primary switching occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is a confirmation for the engine management that the primary circuit pulsed on/off as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T20:21:31.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35131" CreationDate="2016-08-12T20:34:25.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an engineering type answer- with a given technology (don't compare halogen with non-halogen), the lamp brightness will have a strong inverse relationship with the life. The design trade-off of where to put the bulb on a curve is a compromise. Below is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Voltage.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nomograph&lt;/a&gt; of what it looks like when you change voltage on an incandescent bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fxxC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fxxC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a bulb that is brighter it's like sliding the vertical dotted line over on the horizontal axis. For 40% more lumens the current goes up only 15-20% but the life gets slashed to almost 1/3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; make a bulb that will last a very long time (conspiracy theorists notwithstanding) but it will be very inefficient (lots of watts and not much light to show for it). And very red light, but that's another story- the color temperature is really what temperature the filament is at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12112" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T20:34:25.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35128" CreationDate="2016-08-12T23:52:15.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/35129/9884&quot;&gt;Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2's answer is pretty much correct&lt;/a&gt;, at least for Toyotas (the linked post in the OP was for a Lexus aka Toyota). Here is some extra detail. Also &quot;feedback&quot; is used for different things in different ignition systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Toyota/Lexus (Catalytic Converter Overheat Protection):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20100114074256/http://autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is from the official coursebook for Toyota's EFI/TCCS training course #850&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spark Confirmation IGf&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a spark event takes place, an ignition confirmation signal called IGf is generated by the igniter and sent to the ECU. The IGf signal tells the ECU that a spark event has actually occurred. In the event of an ignition fault, after approximately eight to eleven IGt signals are sent to the igniter without receiving an IGf confirmation, the ECU will enter a fail-safe mode, shutting down the injectors to prevent potential catalyst overheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, in the chapter summary, it once again states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An ignition confirmation signal is generated by the igniter which signals the ECU with each ignition event. The IGf signal is used to provide the ECU with a fail-safe fuel cutoff if ignition spark is lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this directly states the primary purpose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To let the ECU cut fuel if a spark plug stops firing, for the express purpose of preventing unburnt fuel from overheating the catalytic converter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question the OP linked to confirms fuel-injector cut after nine missed confirmations (you can see it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDa90.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the scope output&lt;/a&gt;), just as the description from the coursebook states. We can only conjecture why it keeps firing anyways - my personal theory is since it's primary goal is to prevent catalyst overheating from unburnt fuel, it just gives it periodic breaks then continues to retry, but it could also just be your everyday limp mode bouncing around at an RPM cutoff point. Or it could be smart enough to say &quot;OK, since &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; igniter is failing to respond, maybe something else is going on and the coils still work&quot;. I mean; really, there's plenty of good reasons to cut the fuel injectors, but not really any great reasons to cut the spark plugs, so why not just keep going (the real question there is probably &quot;why do the fuel injectors resume&quot; rather than &quot;why do the spark plugs continue to fire&quot;, but now we're straying). Who knows. Doesn't matter though, the purpose is clear at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, from that, we can also infer some secondary purposes, or at least nice obvious side-effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To provide a technician with valuable diagnostics info (pretty convenient when the car just tells you that there's an issue in cylinder 3's coil or whatever).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To provide the vehicle owner with valuable feedback (i.e. turn on the CEL, time to go to the shop).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ford (Dwell Control):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that &lt;strong&gt;the above was Toyota-specific&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, Ford has a patent on a feedback-based dwell control system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US4933861&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Patent 4933861&lt;/a&gt;, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US5043900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Patent 5043900&lt;/a&gt;, a continuation of 4933861.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were filed in 1990 and therefore expired in 2004 (when it presumably became available for others to use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this system, consider a possible initial state (pre-dwell corrected) of a coil charging mechanism:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QaJGC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QaJGC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, current is sent to the coil. There's the initial charge time, but then the dwell is too long and so there's a delay before discharge. Also the spark timing is too late, because it took time for the coil to charge. So you add the feedback signal (Fig. 1C above), which goes low when the ignition signal is received, and high when the coil is charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the ECU knows exactly how long it takes to charge a given ignition coil, and can make corrections to the dwell time, and offset the ignition commands as well, allowing the ECU to start charging the coils far enough ahead of time so that the actual discharge (spark) happens exactly when it should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahX2g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahX2g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the big advantage of this over a &quot;hard-coded&quot; dwell time is the ability to adjust to the current conditions of the environment and ignition coils, in real time, while maintaining precise spark timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's entirely possible that vehicles after 2004 used this system since the patent expired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course in addition to the dwell correction we still get the diagnostics benefits here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some related patents as well (and probably more):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ford, &lt;a href=&quot;http://google.com/patents/EP0390314A2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EP 0390314 A2&lt;/a&gt;, describes a timing offset system based on back-EMF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toyota, &lt;a href=&quot;http://google.com/patents/EP0350894A2?cl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EP 0350894 A2&lt;/a&gt;, which I've included just because it's interesting. This describes a non-feedback-based system with a similar goal which attempts to correct spark timing by predicting when the next TDC will occur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were all filed around the same time in the late 80's and early 90's, it looks like there was probably a big patent rush for ignition timing control systems. I'm sure the lawyers and engineers in all those ignition system labs were consuming inordinately large amounts of coffee during that time period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ford (Dwell Control + Pre-ionization):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the above Ford patent was filed in 1990 and expired in 2004. There is a newer Ford patent, filed in 2009, which builds off of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US8490598&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US 8490598: Ignition coil with ionization and digital feedback for an internal combustion engine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This patent describes the same dwell control system, but also includes some sort of pre-charge phase that can detect pre-ignition or fouled spark plugs. It looks pretty cool, but since this answer is already so long and this patent rabbit hole is virtually bottomless, I have to cut myself off here, but you can read more about it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Further Reading:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there's a lot of uses for feedback from the ignition coils in general. Various systems use it for various things so it's not really possible to give a general answer beyond &quot;it lets the ECU know when the spark plugs fire, so that it can do nice things&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure many other companies besides Ford and Toyota have a lot of other interesting things that they do with feedback signals from ignition coils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;em&gt;tons&lt;/em&gt; of further reading. If you've got time, just start going through the citation lists from the patents linked above. Everything you've ever wanted to know about every ignition control system that has ever existed should be there somewhere, so have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T06:07:38.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35136" CreationDate="2016-08-13T00:07:29.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only information that actually describes the changes technically is in this VW study material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/Docs/SSP/VWUSA.COM_SSP_436_2.0L_TFSI.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/Docs/SSP/VWUSA.COM_SSP_436_2.0L_TFSI.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0Yn3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0Yn3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information tells me the CDHA engine supercedes the CABA engine and has changes to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearing diameter reduced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modified piston&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modified piston rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different honing process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changed vacuum pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will definitely be compatible, assuming the whole engine is swapped, but what those changes were made to the engine design for, I cannot tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T00:07:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26277" CreationDate="2016-08-13T00:11:01.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely need to get the car scanned at a dealer (Audi or VW) or find someone in your local area that has VCDS (Ross Tech scan tool) and scan the entire car's diagnostics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's complete guesswork until that has been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T00:11:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T01:29:35.440" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can't they make it easier to change oil? I would like for it to be as easy as filling the car with gas... so that you don't need to take off a stupid brush guard (or need a wrench at all) and reeeaaach for the oil filter. It's an impractical layout and a messy job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I suppose what I'm asking is, why not put a hose or something in the oil reservoir so that you can change the oil without lifting the car or getting on the ground or paying someone else to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T04:17:44.187" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T07:51:37.033" Title="Why are oil changes made more difficult by filter location, undertray, etc?" Tags="|oil-change|oil-filter|oil-pan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-08-13T08:35:17.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1856" CreationDate="2016-08-13T02:43:10.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just bought a new 2015 VW Passat, which unlike the VW Golf quoted above, does have a break in procedure specified in the owner's manual.  It's not too onerous, but it does prohibit trailer towing for the first 1600 km, and advises keeping the engine rpms under 4000 rpm, and avoid full throttle, for the same period.  For the first 1000 km, steady speeds for prolonged periods should be avoided as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No early oil change is advised - just wait until the normal 15k kms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21576" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T02:43:10.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35131" CreationDate="2016-08-13T02:52:34.013" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;:&quot;Well, if the voltage that gets to the light bulb is always the same, for more light, the light bulb must have less resistance and the current in consequence will be higher.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an incorrect assumption - light bulb light output is dependent on the temperature of the filament - the hotter the filament, the higher the light output for a given power consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why halogen bulbs give more light for the power consumption - their filaments run hotter than regular incandescent bulbs.  A quick measure of this, in the Sylvania chart given by Paulster2, is the light temperature - a 3000K light temperature (typical of a lower power halogen) is 3000 degrees Kelvin (3000K), because that is the temperature of the filament while it is running.  A classic incandescent bulb will be about 2300K at most;  a higher output halogen perhaps 4100K. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the filament temperature goes up, the percentage of the power input to the filament that is converted into light goes up (and the percent that becomes waste heat goes down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a hotter burning filament also has a shorter life - you can see this in practical application if you look at the Sylvania chart, but also in the lightbulb aisle of your hardware store - there are 'long life' regular incandescent bulbs, that use the same, say, 100 W as other bulbs, but give less light (lower lumens), and have a lower light temperature (instead of 2300K, perhaps 1800K).  They are much less efficient at producing light, but last much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21576" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T02:52:34.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35121" CreationDate="2016-08-13T02:52:36.300" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have someone check your catalytic converter. Blocked converters on my pickup caused a power loss so severe thought it was the tranny. It had an engine code saying a trans, component was slipping, and a constant check engine light. My radiator overflow would also percolate when I turned off the engine. All the symptoms disappeared after the cats were corrected. Power like a champ again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21544" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T02:52:36.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34886" CreationDate="2016-08-13T03:05:27.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your battery a side post by any chance? I have had the internal connection to the side terminal go bad several times. Jumper cables would start it, the battery was fully charged.&#xA;   Unfortunately I found no option but replacing the battery. I now have dual terminals, top terminals in case my side terminals break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21544" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T03:05:27.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35125" CreationDate="2016-08-13T04:40:33.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would make no difference with aftermarket or car dealer. Battery manufacturers make the exact same batteries for both. The only difference is the car manufacturer puts their label on it and charges the customer a lot more than the car parts place down the road. Personally I avoid car dealers like the plague and an honest mechanic recommended by friends. If the battery at the parts is identical in voltage, current capacity, cranking amps, and dimensions for your car. Buy it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rusty rotors brake pads and the process of braking are wonderful rust removers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T04:40:33.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35125" CreationDate="2016-08-13T04:44:17.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  This is one of the oldest &lt;em&gt;tricks&lt;/em&gt; in the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I worked for BMW North America, I was in charge of battery field service.  I took a trip to the Deta Douglas battery plant, manufacturing BMW branded batteries in the US, to be used in place of &quot;BMW&quot; Varta from Europe.  There are very few actual battery plants left, as working with lead and acid is never a first career choice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between Diehard Silver and Diehard Gold?  (which were made by either Johnson Controls (aka Interstate) or Exide) . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing.  Well, &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; thing... the Price!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery construction and chemistry are the same.  The stickers and decorations are fancier.   The price is higher, but the warranty is extended.  Instead of 12 replaced and 24 more prorated, you might see 18 months replaced and 42 more prorated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no OEMs that make their own batteries, at least that I know of.  They get somebody else to do it  (Johnson Controls, Douglass, Exide) with their own colors and branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a dealer branded battery, price is liable to be three times as much, with a warranty more limited than a quality (I'm fond of Instersate) &quot;aftermarket&quot; battery.  In fact, OEMs are looking to sell a car, not give you a 5-year battery.  Battery aftersales have a different agenda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only in cases of extremely odd battery shapes and capacities would I consider dealer replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T04:44:17.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T05:22:18.840" Score="1" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Honda Civic and have been having some issues with what I thought was the transmission until I read the &lt;code&gt;P0340&lt;/code&gt; code which is a problem with the camshaft sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car while accelerating would occasionally would not be able to change gears as well as slowly lose power to move. The engine has also turned off while the car was stopped. Would the camshaft sensor malfunction cause those problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21580" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T10:27:23.863" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T10:27:23.863" Title="2004 Honda Civic error code P0340" Tags="|honda|transmission|civic|p0340|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T05:40:51.110" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a leek in my Kangoo and I 'carefully ripped' the front passenger floor mat out to dry it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I need to reinstall it, it doesn't appear to be easy.&#xA;There is a flap that needs to go under the centre consul/gear lever but no obvious way of getting it there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21581" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T13:12:42.853" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T14:24:08.243" Title="How do I reinstall the floor mats on a Renault Kangoo" Tags="|interior|renault|installation|kangoo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T05:54:32.233" Score="5" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving along  and it just  quit moving  it would not go into any gear... when I try to it does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled it up to the garage, jacked it up and can't figure it out. When  I look under it it catches on each gear you can see it moving and hear it click. On the other side when I push in the clutch you can see that bar moving and it holds the safety latch just fine (the lever you engage to get off the seat without killing the motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt does seem loose. I was mowing some tall grass with weeds.. could have I pulled something off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 22 HP Sears 42&quot;cut Electric Start 6 speed transaxle Mo.#917.272850.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty handy even though I'm a 60 year old lady but I am no mechanic either so need advice on what this issue is. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21578" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T19:45:17.717" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T19:45:17.717" Title="Why won't my Sears lawn tractor go?" Tags="|troubleshooting|lawnmower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35146" CreationDate="2016-08-13T07:51:37.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, I suppose what I'm asking is, why not put a hose or something in the oil reservoir so that you can change the oil without lifting the car or getting on the ground or paying someone else to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what oil extractors are for. Insert the hose through the oil dipstick and draw up the oil via vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're especially handy if your oil pan is cheese-grade aluminium and you stand a good chance of stripping the internal plug threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWH8I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWH8I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;manual oil extractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKdVc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKdVc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;compressed air&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the oil filter, there's no shortcut for replacing it. Good thing they usually don't need replacing every oil change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T07:51:37.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35167" CreationDate="2016-08-13T09:35:21.413" Score="3" ViewCount="9359" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqx6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bs2yZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvS1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car VW Golf IV  was parked in the same spot overnight, this morning I see the inner part of the tire with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have similar problems?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any help is welcome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: it is not oil but brake fluid, I am driving it tomorrow morning on low speed to a mechanic 10 km away&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit 2: mechanic will replace the whole &quot;cylinder&quot; with a used part from another graveyard car, the whole thing will cost 1/6 of my monthly income ( in the 3rd world country I live in ), hopefully this new part lasts longer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21583" LastEditorUserId="21583" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T11:04:24.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T11:04:24.443" Title="The inner part of the left rear tire is covered with oil" Tags="|brakes|tires|troubleshooting|golf|leak|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35164" CreationDate="2016-08-13T09:43:29.147" Score="2" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a hair-raising incident yesterday. My engine (automatic transmission) cut out while driving at around 30mph on a main road, just like a manual stalling. It restarted on the first attempt as soon as I'd realised what was happening, after putting it into parking gear etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, it drove but struggled to shift itself above second gear and struggled to accelerate. If I accelerated a normal amount, the revs would lurch and bounce up and down alarmingly without the car gaining speed like it was stuck bouncing between gears. I put it into &quot;2&quot; and drove slowly, and it seemed better, but even then the revs occasionally went up or down for a moment with no obvious reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was down to about 20% fuel, and this is a country where fuel quality can be low (sometimes literally watered down). I crawled along to a petrol station and refueled - after refueling, it was a little slow to accelerate at first especially going up hill, but after about 15 minutes on the road seemed pretty normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After letting everything cool down, I checked transmission fluid levels*, and they were normal. No problems at all shifting between positions on the PRND2L stick, either - reverse reversed, park parked, drive drove, 2 and L behaved as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could what happened be explained by low / bad fuel or should I do other checks as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;sub&gt;oops, I should have checked transmission fluid while the engine was idling, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; after letting it cool down (according to the Haynes manual for this car and model). Actually, my transmission fluid &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; low - topped up now.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastEditorUserId="13299" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T12:55:52.130" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T12:55:52.130" Title="Automatic stalls, then struggles to go up gear, revs bouncing - would low/bad fuel explain this?" Tags="|toyota|automatic-transmission|stall|rav4|intermittent-problems|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-13T10:32:45.327" Score="3" ViewCount="1909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Direct Bikes 125cc Lynx moped. the front light is constantly going on and off (not all the time, just regularly and randomly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not noticeable in the day time to me, but now I ride home from work after 10pm on country lanes with no lights. For no reason the light goes out then back on, sometimes for a split second, sometimes for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly it is over bumpy roads , however it can also occur on flat surfaces too, flat surface maybe 20% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone has recommend bypassing  the earth wire to the battery, then again someone said no to this. Any help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mostly it is over bumpy roads , however it can also occur on flat surfaces too, flat surface maybe 20% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21585" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T20:59:13.940" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T20:59:13.940" Title="125cc moped light problems" Tags="|electrical|headlight|intermittent-problems|moped|direct-bikes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35162" CreationDate="2016-08-13T10:43:00.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have described are classical symptoms of what happens when a bad batch of fuel finds its way inside an engine - sputtering/coughing/misfiring during low-load operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue recurs with fuel that is known to be good, another possibility is that the fuel supply system is unable to deliver the required amount of fuel, causing the engine to misfire. Things to check in such a situation would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a clogged fuel filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a weak fuel pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms of fuel starvation usually manifest themselves under high-load situations, so sudden acceleration, going uphill and high speed travel will all be cases in which the engine could misfire in case of inadequate fuel supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T10:43:00.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36553" CreationDate="2016-08-13T12:44:49.420" Score="5" ViewCount="5221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Subaru Outback with a 5 speed manual and 160k miles on it. The previous owner claims to have replaced the front differential, because it was locked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have been hearing whining noises coming from around the transmission (hard to say exactly while driving) for a while now, and figured it was a bearing somewhere that I don't want to deal with right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yesterday, it started making really awful clunking and grinding noises whenever I'm in gear, especially while accelerating. I do hear clunking and squeaking while turning tight corners sometimes, but not exclusively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not really familiar with Subaru drivetrains, or manual transmissions in general, but everything I'm seeing and hearing online is suggesting the center differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a center diff to you? How would I tell if it's the front or center diff? Do I even have both of those? Could it be a bearing in there, instead of a $500 differential unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm clutching at straws, because I really don't have time or money enough to throw parts at it and see what sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;When I checked the dipstick on the passenger side of the transmission, the only dipstick I can find, I didn't see any problems. However, on starting to drain the fluid from the tranny, it was pretty much made of glitter. Metallic flaky stuff permeates the oil. Bad sign, no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clunky sounds have gotten a bit less ever-present, especially when the transmission has warmed up a bit, but it is still pretty much always making a whining or light-grinding noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, it's starting to sound more like a transmission. Anyone else with more expertise on the matter have anything to say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help diagnosing this, in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12984" LastEditorUserId="12984" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T14:19:07.890" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T13:28:19.397" Title="Subaru clunking and whining - differential?" Tags="|subaru|manual-transmission|drivetrain|diagnostics|differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35163" CreationDate="2016-08-13T13:12:28.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely explanations would be either 1) a loose connection, or 2) if the moped has a self-resetting circuit breaker (instead of a fuse) in the headlight circuit, then perhaps there is an overload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first possibility would most likely be set off by vibrations, so you might think about when the light goes out and see if you notice a pattern – does it happen when going over bumps or on a rough patch of road? Or perhaps when you brake? The loose connection could be in the headlight itself as well as the wiring to it or the connections within the fixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestion to bypass the earth (ground) wire may or may not resolve the problem, but it would help to eliminate the ground as the source of the problem. Similarly you could bypass the power supply to the light. For starters you could make the light circuit as simple as possible (but I'd recommend including a fuse if you bypass all the way back to the battery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bypass both the power and the ground back to the battery with just a fuse and no switch then the light should work reliably. If it doesn't then the problem lies either with the light, your wiring or the battery. If it does work then either you've solved the problem or, at the very least you have a reliable light while you work on sorting out where the problem actually lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second possibility seems much less likely, both because fuses are more common and because of the different lengths of time before the light comes back on. But if your moped has a circuit breaker this would be worth pursuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T13:12:28.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35161" CreationDate="2016-08-13T13:26:53.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't an oil source that I can think of by the rear tires of a Mk4 Golf, as pointed out in the comments a brake fluid leak seems much more likely. Brake fluid is normally clear, but it could be dark with contamination or you could be picking up road dirt and grease from the tire. Brake fluid is a very good solvent, so it may also be carrying dirt and grease from the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brake fluid leak is serious, so this is worth investigating further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake fluid has a distinctive smell and feel, so you might be able to identify it that way. Check the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment, both for quantity of fluid and to learn what it smells like. I think it would be ok to dip a clean finger into the fluid to learn what it feels like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at the rear wheel and find the small metal pipes and rubber hoses that run from the wheels. Those carry the brake fluid, follow them to the wheel and look around where they connect (on the brake caliper) for any signs of leaks on both sides of the rotor (the disc that the brakes grab to stop the wheel). I fear that you'll find the source there and that means either learning how to repair the brakes or taking the car in for repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T13:26:53.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35158" CreationDate="2016-08-13T14:24:08.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the floor mats are held in place with the same screws which hold bits of plastic trim in place. Even if there aren't actual screw holes you may need to loosen bits of trim to get them back easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is more trouble than it seems worth you could instead carefully cut off the flap and use something like double sided tape, self adhesive Velcro or contact adhesive to hold it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to work for a van conversion company and often had to remove mats and trim to fit various bits and pieces. Often trim fixings are designed for one time easy assembly (often using plastic clips etc) and don't go back together perfectly once removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common problem is that to remove one b it of trim you end up with a complex jigsaw puzzle of other bits which need to be removed first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up accumulation a kit of various plastic wedges, prying tools, hooks etc for problematic trim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T14:24:08.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2016-08-13T14:34:46.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often when vehicles have inaccessible battery terminals there will be specific jump start or charging terminals somewhere more convenient. This is often the case with vans which frequently have the battery located under the passenger seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These terminals are often located in the engine bay near the top of the bulkhead on the near (kerb) side usually under a clip on plastic cover. Alternatively there may be secondary terminals near the battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T14:34:46.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28049" CreationDate="2016-08-13T14:44:26.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it sounds like normal engine noise but louder the first suspect will be a leak in the exhaust system somewhere. Look for any evidence of black soot around the exhaust system or any obvious holes, cracks or other damage also that all of the various elements of the exhaust system are  connected properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sound is more metallic it could indicate something internal to the engine, a rattle is often associated with with valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14585" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T14:44:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35175" CreationDate="2016-08-13T17:33:41.973" Score="9" ViewCount="172955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people have suggested that I remove my cars catalytic converter. This is because my car is designed for a different market, and the manufacturer recommended fuel is not sold in my area. It is common for cars here to have the cat get clogged and the only options are to either install a new one, which is expensive, or to completely remove the cat, which is not a legal requirement here.&#xA;Are there any complications which could arise due to removing the cat, apart from the composition of the exhaust fumes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21589" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T18:14:24.497" Title="Is it a good idea to remove the catalytic converter?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35161" CreationDate="2016-08-13T18:22:05.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have commented - there aren't engine oil lines or a reservoir that contains engine oil near the rear of the car so you can almost rule out your own engine oil as the source. To verify, you could open your hood and check your engine oil level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be your brake line that runs into the caliper. Brake lines usually alternate between lengths of rubber tubing and steel tubing. Most cars have a rubber line that connects with a small metal elbow piece at the brake caliper. This elbow is generally a fragile piece - not in quality but the piece carries a lot of stress and the tube itself is a diameter of ~8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on many things, primarily age, your tubing might be brittle and caused a leak. Other issues could be elbow junction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Definitely do not drive your car until you verify a few things.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your brake oil level in your engine bay; Usually a small container connected to the firewall of your car. Another option, turn your car on while in park, and slowly press your brake pedal. If you have a leak, you should feel less pressure under your foot than normal and also, you'd see a lot more oil near the rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21591" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T18:22:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35171" CreationDate="2016-08-13T18:23:38.407" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; There would be no issues with the running of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the car in question is equipped with OBDII (or the international like), where the cat is being monitored by a second lambda sensor (O2 sensor), the only side effect of removing the cat would be the check engine light (CEL) would illuminate to show the secondary lambda issue. This would be more of an annoyance than a problem, but it will remain lit all the time. This would preclude you from seeing it light if a real problem occurred. The only way around this would be to put in a replacement for the lambda sensor which would fool the computer into thinking everything was okay (there is a term for these fake sensors, but the name eludes me at present), or to have an aftermarket tune put into the computer, which would set the thresholds for &quot;out of range&quot; on the lambda sensor so the CEL would never illuminate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T18:23:38.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35159" CreationDate="2016-08-13T18:44:23.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see one of two things happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drive belt is worn out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tensioner pulley which takes up the slack in the drive belt is not doing its job. If this is the case, the spring associated with the tensioner pulley may be weak. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one may be easy enough. If this has not been changed out in several years, you may want to just do this in the first place. It should be fairly easy to replace, but there will be a few guides which will need to be removed to get the belt off/on. The belt itself is most likely made of rubber with some type of cloth (sort of) which is wound around the outside of it to provide grip on the pulleys. If the outer layer is worn off on the faces which comes in contact with the pulleys, this would be an obvious cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one may not be as easy to diagnose. The pulley in question should be able to be identified when you press on the clutch. The tensioner pulley should be the pulley which moves to release tension on the belt. Obviously this is going to be a two person job, or you're going to have to be really flexible to figure it out. This would most easily be accomplished with the lawn mower up in the air, but that's easier said than done. Be that as it may, when you find the tensioner pulley, see if you can apply more pressure to the pulley (same direction of travel as when the pulley is under tension). If there is a bunch of slack there, the spring which holds the tension may have bit the dust or may be stretched so as to not provide the amount of tension needed to do the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a third thing which I can think of, that being both the tensioner mechanism and the belt are worn out. I'd start with the belt, though, as that is an obvious wear item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/917272850/0247/1509200.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; on the Sears site, then click on &quot;Ground Drive&quot;, it will bring up a diagram. The two pulleys I see which could be what you are looking for is either part #38 or #47. More than likely it's #47. I'm not sure how the mechanism works, but if #47 is it, whatever action is taken with a foot clutch or gear engagement will cause this too move. This will then take up the slack to cause the belt to catch. The entire &quot;clutch system&quot; of the mower is based on the friction of the belt against the pulleys. If the friction is gone, the mower won't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T18:44:23.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35171" CreationDate="2016-08-13T19:42:34.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Is it a good idea?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the literal question in the title, no. Just because one can doesn't mean one should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not for the environment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cats are there to scrub out the most of the CO and NOx nastiness that is the byproduct of internal combustion. If I remember well, these chemicals contribute to acid rain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not for your health&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a pretty good chance the fumes will find their way into the vehicle cabin, especially if your windows are rolled down and/or you have an exhaust leak. These fumes don't just smell bad - they can induce headaches as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T22:37:08.733" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T22:37:08.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35264" CreationDate="2016-08-13T23:35:27.600" Score="5" ViewCount="24972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a set of Bosch flexible wiper blades on my car for a little over a year now, and they've always worked great.  Recently, I washed my car, wiped down the blades, and applied Rain-ex to the windshield.  I have also been using the Rain-ex windshield washer fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I next used my windshield wipers, they were clattering and slipping like crazy across the glass, to the point where I was afraid they would damage my car!  I tried wiping the blades down with some isopropyl alcohol, which left heavy black streaks on the cloth, but it didn't seem to resolve the clattering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the Rain-ex has (chemically) damaged the blades?  I've used Rain-ex before on my windshield, and I've never had this problem.  I am fairly sure (but not 100%) that I followed Rain-ex's product instructions - which involves wiping and polishing the windshield to remove any residue after application.  I imagine that Rain-ex contains a number of solvents, and that letting the wipers touch the Rain-ex before it dries could damage the rubber.  Could this be my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read through a number of other forums, most of which seem to degenerate into the &quot;Rain-ex will ruin your car and make you sterile&quot; people versus the &quot;I never have any problems, you must be doing something wrong&quot; people.  Until today, I would have been one of the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the problem is simply a matter of being absolutely, 100% sure not to allow any liquid Rain-ex to come into contact with your wiper blades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find a list of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2010/06/st_whatsinside_rainx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ingredients in Rain-ex original formula&lt;/a&gt;.  My &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005JU5V6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wiper blades&lt;/a&gt; are made from a proprietary rubber blend called &quot;FX dual rubber compound&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth mentioning that the Bosch blades are the new flexible kind, so they do not have the rigid metal backing that would push them firmly against the glass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10829" LastEditorUserId="10829" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T20:06:04.650" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T22:34:37.143" Title="Does Rain-ex damage wipers?" Tags="|troubleshooting|windshield-wipers|windshield-washer|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35185" CreationDate="2016-08-13T23:48:21.573" Score="1" ViewCount="1355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading that certain scanners are capable of logging data that can be recorded while driving. What sort of data are most popular to be recorded? Can someone comment with examples of data logging capabilities out there today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:46:21.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:46:21.303" Title="What data are OBD-II scanners capable of logging?" Tags="|obd-ii|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35184" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:10:01.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scanners that can log things can generally log whatever they can also display.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it wouldn't be unusual for a scanner that supports logging to let you choose what to log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an implementation perspective, it wouldn't really make any sense to make the set of loggable data be anything less than the complete set of readable / displayable data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real differences are e.g. how many parameters can be logged at once, or how often log entries can be written, or how long a log can be, or what format the logged data is in. For that you'll just have to check product description pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &quot;Whatever they can display&quot; may be a subset of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all possible parameters&lt;/a&gt; -- this depends on the vehicle -- but in general if you can see it, you can log it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T00:41:23.107" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T00:41:23.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35187" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:16:13.947" Score="5" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that quite a few cars have a panel on each of the doors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIh9W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIh9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched through the car manual and it makes no mention of the panel. I'm assuming that it is some kind of manual door release. Is that correct, or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture is from a 2010 Kia Forte, but I've seen the same thing in many other cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21586" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T11:45:45.557" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T11:45:45.557" Title="What is this panel on the doors?" Tags="|locks|kia|interior|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35186" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:27:03.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a screw behind the pop out cover, used to remove the door panel. This may not be exact match to your car, for example only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtRfK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtRfK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image thanks to Jason C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T00:36:15.640" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T00:36:15.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:27:06.000" Score="4" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Nissan Quest 2007 has a dead ECM and wonder if I can replace it with a used one. Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21598" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T00:38:38.183" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T00:45:35.910" Title="Can I replace my ECM in my 2007 Nissan Quest with a used one" Tags="|nissan|electronic-control-module|quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35184" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:32:17.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what car you have - some cars provide data that other cars don't. It also depends on your scanner - some capture more data than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cheap way in, get a copy of Torque (for android or apple) and an ELM327 OBD transmitter (you'll need a bluetooth one for an apple). That pretty much captures everything, although you need to work a bit at it (e.g, knowing what you want to scan/graph really helps...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T00:32:17.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35188" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:45:35.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but a Nissan Dealership or other qualified shop has to program that ECM to your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qIu1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qIu1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T00:45:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35194" CreationDate="2016-08-14T00:58:53.567" Score="9" ViewCount="3336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realised today that the seal around the rear lights, where the drainage around the trunk runs over, has perished on both sides of my car. Right side is worse with a substantial gap missing. I definitely don't want to chance rust or failed electronics so I need to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UgGd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6UgGd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;perished seal around rear tail light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I fix it? I'm hoping it's just a new seal rather than the whole lighting fixture. It's a BMW E46 330Ci 2002 with the sport package. Pre-facelift I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T07:19:59.287" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T22:09:49.623" Title="How can I replace the perished seal around my rear lights on my BMW E46?" Tags="|bmw|seal|trunk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T01:15:47.083" Score="1" ViewCount="1329" Body="&lt;p&gt;Headlights went out on the way to work. I realized it is only low beam. High beam works fine, I can't find the fuse to replace it? Also replaced spark plugs because of car missing. I've replaced a coil pack last year for the same symptoms but it also stated coil pack in diagnosis test. After replacement of plugs the diagnostic tests reads misfire. My buddy said it will straighten it's self out but vehicle running worse now than before. Any suggestions? Gas consumption is extreme to say the least and don't put a lot of miles on the trailblazer daily and these same issues happened with the coil pack, including loss of power. Also various electrical problems seems to happen. Could this be a larger fuse that I'm not aware of that connects the different lights? When I run the AC the miss is worse because of the compressor but the issue still remains. Vehicle struggles sometimes to gain speed and gas petal will be to the floor, other times its as it should be. Plug change didn't seem to help except gas smell is gone. I'm not a mechanic but I can handle a few issues so please word things I'll understand, thanks in advance. Just want my vehicle back and running correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21600" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T04:11:42.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T04:11:42.697" Title="2005 Chevy trailblazer 4dr 6cyl 4.2vortex" Tags="|engine|chevrolet|headlight|fuel-consumption|trailblazer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35192" CreationDate="2016-08-14T01:33:22.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram of the headlight circuits, you should be able to find the cause using this. Headlamp Fuses are in the engine compartment fuse block. I suspect Fuse 53, since this will stop both low beams from working, or a bad HDM relay or Headlamp switch., worst case it is an issue with the Body Control Module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click images to enlarge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFPTY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LFPTY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the headlight switch diagram if you should need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxHee.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxHee.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T01:39:47.467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T01:39:47.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35191" CreationDate="2016-08-14T02:08:34.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For tail lights, usually the seal is part of the assembly. Your best bet is to apply some sealant. Car parts stores will have some, they sell it in tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T02:08:34.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35171" CreationDate="2016-08-14T03:56:03.633" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In places where smog is not a problem, the catalytic converter does more damage than good.  It reduces the efficiency of the vehicle, forcing the consumption of more fuel than would otherwise be burnt.  In this context the answer is YES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21601" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:56:03.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T04:17:28.120" Score="5" ViewCount="3357" Body="&lt;p&gt;The turbo output in our 2002 VW Jetta TDI has dropped way off. Pulling the turbo out seems like a serious piece of work, so I'd like to be pretty confident that it has failed before I pull it. So I'm wondering how to test that. I think I have two specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way that the vane actuator could be moving and yet not actually moving the vanes, or is it a positive linkage? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is a bearing failure or broken shaft would I be able to detect this before pulling the turbo (say by pulling the compressor inlet or outlet pipes and trying to spin the compressor)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the controls are good, is there anything else that I could/should check before pulling the turbo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T19:50:17.870" Title="Turbo Failure Modes (VW TDI VNT15)" Tags="|vw|troubleshooting|diesel|turbocharger|tdi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35215" CreationDate="2016-08-14T06:20:19.830" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  a  2005 Honda Pilot EX and I want to know if replacing the engine air filter is necessary. I'm asking this because when I searched Youtube for a tutorial I could find only 1 for a 2004 Honda Pilot, which will work because it's the same car with  different branding (no facelifts, nothing). I just wannt to make sure I  should do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17498" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:18:04.007" Title="Is Engine Air Filter Replacement Necessary on a 2005 Honda PIlot" Tags="|engine|honda|air-filter|pilot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:05:46.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the cabin air filter first and start the engine and A/C and select recirculate, take a can of Oziom odor and bacteria killer and spray a good amount into the system where you removed the filter. Make sure to replace that filter ever so often to prevent that from happening again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:05:46.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:14:40.803" Score="2" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Ram 4.7L Why would the air work perfectly until stopping at a light and hear a little sound then starts blowing very hot air instead? Even when put in neutral and revved up doesn't help, until the truck is in motion again it will not get cold again. I've also noticed that every time the truck is turned off you can hear a hissing for maybe 6 seconds. I've drained all the refrigerant and pulled a vacuum and refilled it with top notch 134a and it's made no change except gets a little colder. The refrigerant never gets low either, what's causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T12:38:06.503" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T12:38:06.503" Title="2003 Dodge Ram AC malfunction" Tags="|ac|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33586" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:29:07.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the slight possibility that there could've been some old bad gas or gunk in the tank that could've just gotten sucked into the lines or the carb jets. If that is possible in your case you can flush everything with started fluid or brake cleaner and make sure to remove the fuel tank and put about a half gallon of gas in it and shake it well and dump it. Repeat until clean. Good luck with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:29:07.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28185" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:40:32.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system. Take the cap off of the overflow tank and radiator if possible and start the engine and turn the heat on so it'll circulate fully, allow the engine to reach operating temperature and the coolant level should drop as soon as its flushed the air pocket out, top off the system, replace caps and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:40:32.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35197" CreationDate="2016-08-14T08:49:55.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it's critical to do and hopefully has been done since 05&quot;! An internal combustion engine breathes like we do so if you cut off it's air flow it'll suffocate. Will start getting very poor gas mileage and have huge power decreases. Replace immediately and do so each year at least. Or I'd recommend getting a lifetime K&amp;amp;N air filter that you rinse out each year. It cost a little bit more but pays for itself within the first ten tanks of gas in most cases because of the significantly increased amount of ait it allows into the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T08:49:55.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35183" CreationDate="2016-08-14T09:10:03.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rain-X, like any chemical that sticks around, has a residual film which can attract dust and debris.  When you used your wipers on this chemical it allowed everything that has been accumulating on your wiper blades to clump up and cause poor performance. The alcohol you cleaned them with dried the rubber up severely, so it may be too late for those blades now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one trick I've ever learned can restore a blade once it gets dried out (as long as it's not not dry-rotted).  Use some car wax (preferably a hydrophobic polymer blend synthetic wax) and wax the windshield same as you would the car.  Once the wax dries, buff it off and immediately turn your wipers on so the finest layer of the remaining wax will coat the blades and smooth them out.  It also doesn't hurt to spray a little water on there while they're wiping.  Rubbing a small amount of non-greasy leather conditioner on the blades couldn't hurt either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal circumstances, you only need to wet an old wash rag and, lifting each blade up, grab and squeeze just the rubber blade itself and swipe all the way across it. Look at the rag now.  It most likely left a black streak on it.  If so, repeat with a clean portion of the rag until it wipes clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the quality of the blades depends on the quality of the rubber or Teflon from which they are made.  A softer material removes water better but catches debris better too. Repeat that cleansing trick every few months to keep them working like new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip:&lt;/strong&gt; If you do end up having to replace them this time, try to find TRICO NEOFORMS.  They're the only ones I've ever dealt with that will hold up to literally anything, because instead of traditional rubber they use patented Dupont brand Teflon. I personally haven't found any blade that will outperform or outlast them - even the more expensive can't compete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're around the same price as you're BOSCH Icons were. You'll also notice that waxing your windshield works better at beading rain away than Rain-X ever could. The Rain-X anti-fog formula is the only one I'd even consider using, and only because it goes on the inside of the windows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="10829" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T22:55:29.420" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T22:55:29.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T11:41:10.323" Score="3" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Civic vibrates after 99 kmp every time. If I forcely give acceleration in that speed range, I observe the vibration is less. Whenever I take my foot from accelerator pedal, it feels like more vibrating. Also, if I use cruise control, in 5 seconds after car rpm is stable, the vibration is less. Trouble shooted below things, but still the problem starts at 99 always:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 new Dunlop Japan tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 new wheel bearings front&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 new suspension (since it was weak)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Changed lower main (hydraulic mounting few months back)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Performed balancing twice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can somebody help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21604" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T13:13:39.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T13:13:39.697" Title="Honda civic 2010 steering/body vibration after 99kmp" Tags="|honda|civic|steering|vibration|body|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22961" CreationDate="2016-08-14T12:12:48.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the looks of the picture it's not an arm problem or you'd notice partial wipes once it start to lift up off the windshield. Honestly from the pic it looks like you need to go up an inch or two in length on the blades. Although... There are some cars now that have windshield edges that's so rounded off that all aftermarket blades are gonna have problems conforming to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T12:12:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35196" CreationDate="2016-08-14T12:24:51.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way that the vane actuator could be moving and yet not actually moving the vanes, or is it a positive linkage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a positive linkage, but it doesn't mean it isn't working right. However, if the linkage is moving freely, the vanes inside the turbo exhaust housing should be moving. The vacuum can (actuator) is where the problems lie most of the time. You can get an excess of soot buildup within the turbo which can cause the vanes not to move correctly, but again, the actuator rod would not be moving either. Here is an image with several of the major parts annotated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CSGQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CSGQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a bearing failure or broken shaft would I be able to detect this before pulling the turbo (say by pulling the compressor inlet or outlet pipes and trying to spin the compressor)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check for bearing failure is to pull the inlet hose off of the turbo, then putting your index finger on the turbo shaft (center of the compressor turbine) and check for end play. If you detect any side to side movement, the bearings are either shot, or very close to it. The turbo would need rebuilt or replaced at this point. The turbo should also spin freely. If it doesn't, further investigation can be had. If the shaft is shot (highly unlikely), the turbine wheel wouldn't spin. Definitely time for replacement or rebuild at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pull the turbo off the car and pull it apart, if you see any type of damage to the compressor or exhaust turbines, such as chips or scarring, you'll need to get a new turbo as well. This is a sign the bearing may be shot as well. The tolerances are tight inside the turbo. Any shaft movement side to side will cause damage (turbines will start eating housing). It will be readily apparent upon inspection if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T12:24:51.517" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35171" CreationDate="2016-08-14T13:50:32.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the catalytic converter will save a lot more money than replacing it, and will make your engine exhale better and last longer due to the removal of a suffocation device &amp;quot;cat&amp;quot;. Only issue outta all the ones I've removed it is if the downstream O2 sensor is plugged directly in it, which there are ways around. If that is the case then the first option is, remove the &amp;quot;cat&amp;quot;, gut it out completely, reinstall it, and plug the sensor back in. Option two: remove the &amp;quot;cat&amp;quot;, fill in that gap with exhaust tubing, bore a hole in the new pipe that the O2 sensor will fit snugly in, and there should be no engine light. As long as that sensor has hot gas exhaust flowing over it, it's not gonna trigger an error code to the car's computer. If there's no sensor in the cat, just chop it off and fill in the gap. It's gonna run a lot better, I'll tell you that. I do it to every car I've ever had and ever will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T18:14:24.497" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T18:14:24.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35211" CreationDate="2016-08-14T14:41:42.673" Score="0" ViewCount="4817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cleaned my car yesterday and noticed two areas of new scratches, I'm confused as to what might have caused them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are both on the rear bumper, one on the lip above and two on the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not deep, they don't seem like someone has done it maliciously as it wouldn't make sense to mark it in such a way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't look like parking too close to bush as they are too symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't look like someone has bumped me as there is no paint nor would it explain the top lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more curious as to what has caused these, as they are very strange in position and pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How have these marks most likely happened?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYOb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZMEqS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZMEqS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21606" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:30:49.590" Title="What caused these scratches" Tags="|paint-scratches|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-08-18T08:17:58.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35210" CreationDate="2016-08-14T14:50:01.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a guess, because you know it's anybody's guess at this point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top picture looks as though there was some type of contaminant on the paint which some one tried to take off manually without the help of cleaning products. This ground whatever was on the paint into the paint, causing the scratches. This should easily buff out as there doesn't appear to be any major scaring on the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This appears something came in contact with the paint, like a bicycle. Maybe one fell over onto the car at some point. It could also be it got too close to something hard, like part of the structure within a parking garage. You could get most of this out with buffing, but I believe you'd still have some residual scratches left due to the depth of what's there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T14:50:01.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35210" CreationDate="2016-08-14T15:05:15.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only two things we can say for sure are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These scratches were caused by something harder than the paint, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thing that caused these scratches moved in the direction of the scratches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that it's whatever you feel like imagining that meets those constraints. We can't even say if these scratches happened at the same time or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rule things out from this. For example, it wasn't, say, fingernails (too soft, real nails I mean). And it wasn't, say, a powered random orbit sander (not circular enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you know the quirks of your particular environment, so your guess based on what you usually see in that area is better than anything anybody else can provide. I mean, maybe &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; did it carrying cleaning buckets around or something and didn't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to minimize future risk, the best you can do is leave it in a secure garage and/or cover the vehicle when you park it, and even then there are no guarantees, you cannot predict what essentially random events will result in scratches on your vehicle in the future (maybe some debris finds its way under your car cover, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;em&gt;true&lt;/em&gt; best bet is to fix the scratches on your own. By doing this, you'll learn something, you'll save money, and it'll be kinda fun and definitely satisfying. That way, you can deal with inevitable future scratches without losing sleep over it, as they are now an easily  correctable problem instead of a big deal. You can't control the environment but you can certainly control your response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just stop trying to guess, you will never know unless somebody comes back and leaves a note or something, which, not going to happen, realistically. Where I am (in a crowded city) scratches are just an every day event, I'd go nuts if I tried to guess what caused every one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T17:30:49.590" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:30:49.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T15:54:01.777" Score="3" ViewCount="14937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking my short term fuel trim numbers and o2 sensor switching speed as I think my post-cat sensor has degraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is not throwing a code, and I don't believe that there's a hole in the exhaust but I am open to correction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At both idle and 2500 RPM, after engine warm up, the post-cat short fuel trim is hovering about 50%. The post-cat o2 sensor switches with a lot less of a voltage difference than the pre-cat. The STFT pre-cat drops to about 1% at engine warmup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I estimate the lambda to be about 1.75, which is far far too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is the post-cat lambda dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T08:21:25.467" Title="Very high short term fuel trim" Tags="|o2-sensor|emissions|fuel-trims|lambda|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35197" CreationDate="2016-08-14T17:18:04.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air filters should be replaced when they are dirty, it's only a waste of money to do so sooner. Depending on the air quality where you drive, it could be yearly, but usually longer (3 to 5 years for most people).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have &quot;lifetime&quot; K&amp;amp;N air filters in 2 of my cars, it doesn't really save you gas, maybe gives you 2 extra HP, and you do not rinse these yearly, only when they get &quot;gunky.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disposable air filters like the one you most likely have in your Pilot usually cost about $12, whereas the &quot;lifetime&quot; air filters usualy cost around $65, and the cleaning kit for them costs around $15 and is good for 3 or 4 cleans, which, depending of the air quality of where you drive, should be cleaned every 3 to 5 years (in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T17:18:04.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35214" CreationDate="2016-08-14T17:21:22.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The post o2 generally does not effect performance. It's rather more a gauge of how well your catalytic converter is functioning. In a perfect world Stoichiometry is what the secondary is trying to listen for. The reason for switching of your pre-cat o2 sensor is to allow for temperature and fuel/air  fluctuation to efficiently allow the cat to absorb both the lower and higher spectrum of pollutants that the engine excretes during combustion. You will generally see a more steady or consistent line of data on the post cat o2 simply because it's providing efficient cleaning of your emissions. 50 percent or close to it isn't necessarily a bad number as long as your engine is designed to run that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is the scantool that they used to scan the vehicle. &#xA;I've seen technicians use in house tools, and after-market tools that don't always work. I have several tools that cost in the thousands and sometimes they don't read fuel trim and o2 data correctly. You may need to make sure they are using an in house scan tool made by the engineers that developed the computer system for your car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you believe the results are too high, you can use a good multi-meter or oscilloscope to compare fuel injection pulse to your downstream o2. o2 sensors are a bit tricky. I'm not a &quot;parts changer&quot;, but most times when I run into an issue like this that points towards a bad o2 sensor; I replace it and go from there. You can always clear your ECU/ECM and install it. See if it works and if not, just take it back to the parts store and go from there. Look for bad wiring and warping of the o2 as well. They take a real beating sometimes because of the temperature fluctuation.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as far as throwing a code. They really need to be high on the STFT and LTFT to throw a code. Generally over -15% or +15% will throw a code. It's a bit silly that it takes that much, but you also didn't describe the running condition of your engine. Usually when you have a very bad fuel trim, the vehicle will run like crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T08:21:25.467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T08:21:25.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T17:29:15.793" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. The radio has been replaced by an aftermarket one, the Pioneer FH-X700BT. When I turn the car on the first bit, the whole system works wonderfully, no glitches. However, as soon as I put it in reverse and then into drive and start accelerating, the songs will skip. Especially with the USB/iPod port, or through bluetooth. The songs will just skip to the next one, or the output changes to display the time left on the song and then starts to reverse it all the way down. I literally have no clue what is going on, but any help would be greatly appreciated. This only started two days ago, but I figured I should get help as quick as possible. Thank you all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21608" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T12:10:52.467" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T12:54:44.127" Title="Aftermarket Radio Issues" Tags="|honda|audio|pilot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-14T18:07:27.667" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a radiator and coolant flush on my 04 corolla about two months ago. I flushed 6 times with distilled water. About 3 liters each time. And I tried getting it to full heat with heater and blowers on between each flush to get the heater core flushed also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then drained the last flush and got about 3 liters out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then filled up the radiator through the cap with 100%official red coolant and filled the reservoir also with 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put about 3.5 liters of 100% coolant total into the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book says it is like 6 or 6.5 liters total capacity. So I figured this should get me close to a 50/50 mix once everything mixed from the heater core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 months later here, and I've been measuring every few weeks with one of those peak hydrometers, where the triangle pin goes to a temp. It still goes to the point of 100 percent coolant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried driving it a lot with heat on high. But still 100% when measuring at the cap or in the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems it isn't mixing with the heater core. Even it I never flushed the core originally, I should be near a 75% mix now if it was mixing. But I'm not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to drain half out to put in water, because I'm worried it's killing my water pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why wouldn't it mix. I know I only put in about 3 liters of 100% red coolant. But after months of driving, it still seems to be 100%.  I've had no overheating problems through the hot summer, and I have good heat from my vents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? To either get it to mix or should I just drain some and add water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17324" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T20:52:18.520" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T20:52:18.520" Title="Corolla not mixing coolant with heater core?" Tags="|toyota|coolant|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35222" CreationDate="2016-08-14T18:33:11.543" Score="5" ViewCount="5044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 Honda Prelude SH (Honda H22A4 engine). I am about to tackle replacing the timing belt and the cam/crank/balancer shaft seals on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the one tool I don't have is a torque wrench (impact or otherwise) suitable for the 170 ft-lb torque spec on the crank pulley bolt when reinstalling it (I've got an electric impact driver with a 125 ft-lb spec, and a cheap torque wrench with an 80 ft-lb max). Also, I did order Honda's crank pulley bolt removal tool, although I suspect I'll have to take it to a shop to get help cracking the bolt anyways if I can't do it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My crank pulley has splines and a key, or something -- I don't know the terminology so here is a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKlQV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKlQV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.new-part.com/product/honda-prelude-1993-2001-crankshaft-pulley-13810-p13-003-genuine-oes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt just fits on the end of the crankshaft, nothing exotic (the special tool has a hole in the middle and sits in the large socket so you can hold the shaft still while cracking the bolt):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja2SH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja2SH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-0804-honda-crank-removal-tips-and-tool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question, which I've probably hyped up too much, is simply this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I have to drive (just a few blocks) to the shop to get help cracking the bolt and then drive it back to get help tightening it to 170 ft-lb when I'm done, this means I'll have to do this driving with the bolt tightened to a significantly lower torque. Can I do this? If so, should I take any special precautions? I don't have enough experience to predict whether or not the speed of the crankshaft will cause the bolt / pulley to slip off, or damage the splines or key, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankshaft spins counter clock-wise and the bolt is not reverse-threaded so I do know that at least revving up will naturally tighten the bolt (but maybe revving down would loosen it?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can't drive the car with a loose pulley bolt I'm not really sure what else I can do. I suppose I could rent a compressor and impact torque wrench. That'll make reinstalling the bolt no problem. I'm not looking forward to cracking it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T22:22:12.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T22:22:12.443" Title="Can I run the engine for a short amount of time with a loose crankshaft pulley bolt?" Tags="|honda|crankshaft|pulley|prelude|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35219" CreationDate="2016-08-14T19:45:41.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crack it loose and then have them re-tighten to 70 lbs, this way you can remove it when  you get home without risking it coming loose during the drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T19:45:41.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35218" CreationDate="2016-08-14T19:48:39.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to be sure try another hydrometer to measure coolant mix. If it still reads 100%, then yes drain some and add distilled water. Test with hydrometer again, 50-70% mix is safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T19:48:39.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35219" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:01:06.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; You possibly could, but why not just do it the right way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the right tools for the job and do it right from the get go. This way you won't have to worry about anything falling off while driving down the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, get the Honda hub socket which Lisle makes. You can get it (or a close facsimile) just about anywhere. It's Lisle PN: 77260 and looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jJvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jJvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool will hold the crank in place while you get the crankshaft bolt out of the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, to get the crank shaft bolt out, you'll need a breaker bar, with possibly a cheater pipe to get it to break free. In fact, you'll need two different breaker bars, one to use on the above tool, and one to go on the socket you'll need to break it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, get a torque wrench to tighten it all back up. There is almost no way to use an impact wrench to get a proper torque on a fastener ... there are torque sticks which are used to put lug nuts on, but those only go to a maximum of 100 lb-ft normally. Also, you don't use a torque wrench to take off fasteners, as you'll ruin your torque wrench (you'll kill the calibration on it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-in-all, use the right tool for the right job. Do it right the first time and you'll never regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T20:01:06.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35224" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:19:58.127" Score="8" ViewCount="17352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is a silly question, but what is the technical definition of the &quot;front&quot; vs. the &quot;rear&quot; of the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my vehicle, from the context of part names, the &quot;front&quot; is the side with the timing belt and the other belts, the alternator, compressor, p/s pump. The &quot;rear&quot; is the side with the flywheel, clutch, transmission, VTEC solenoid (it's a Honda). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relative to the vehicle itself the &quot;front&quot; is on the driver's side and the &quot;rear&quot; is on the passenger side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which side of an arbitrary engine is the &quot;front&quot;, in general? E.g. is it always the timing belt side? The side opposite the transmission? The side with the crank pulley?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T20:27:00.053" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T16:39:09.473" Title="Which side of the engine is the &quot;front&quot;?" Tags="|engine|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35223" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:24:07.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear of an automotive engine is the side the power is taken off of. The side where the clutch or torque converter attach. The other sides are in relation to the rear: the side opposite the rear is the front, and the left side of the engine is the side on your left as you look at the engine from the rear, and likewise the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the &quot;front&quot; of an automotive engine is the side that was usually on the front in &quot;traditional&quot; rear wheel drive cars. Otherwise I would think it would make more sense to name the engine sides in a less subjective way (e.g. &quot;power deliver side&quot; and &quot;accessory side&quot; or some such nomenclature). But when engines usually sat in a vehicle in a consistent manner &quot;front&quot; was a lot less of a mouthful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know, but I suspect that on an aircraft engine it is reversed and the front is the side the propeller is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't go by things like the timing drive – some engines don't have them (two strokes for example) and there is nothing that says that they have to be on one side or the other – BMW builds engines with the timing drive at the rear for example. I suppose the crank pulley would usually be on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T20:41:16.513" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T20:41:16.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35219" CreationDate="2016-08-14T21:13:59.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; ... so long as you don't have the same result as happened to a friend of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was driving along when there was a sudden &quot;clunk&quot; and the ignition warning light came on. The obvious guess was &quot;broken alternator drive belt,&quot; so he pulled over and stopped to investigate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, there was no drive belt to be seen. There was also no crankshaft pulley, which had somehow worked itself loose and fallen off. The &quot;clunk&quot; was presumably the sound of the pulley hitting the road. He went back to look for it, but never found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T21:13:59.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35217" CreationDate="2016-08-14T23:15:28.440" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 8 years, I wouldn't even troubleshoot it. Just put a new unit in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T23:15:28.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32801" CreationDate="2016-08-14T23:26:44.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you have a tiny fuel system leak that is slowly bleeding air into the fuel line somewhere? This would add air bubbles to the initial start which might take a moment to clear. Im my experience this will throw the timing considerably when started, which will cause a knocking in some engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T23:26:44.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T01:05:49.147" Score="3" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I'm having the same exact problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/3822/why-are-my-wires-melting-together&quot;&gt;the other guy is having with his BMW&lt;/a&gt;. I have a 1997 Toyota Camry, I recently had a new engine installed because the old one threw a rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go get my car from the mechanic and I'd say two hours later all my dashboard lights go out. Can't roll my windows up, odometer &amp;amp; speedometer gone out. Every time I put a fuse in there it blows right away. I took it right back to the mechanic that put my engine in he's just as confused he claims &quot;He didn't cut any wires he didn't touch any wires in the dashboard.&quot; Well I didn't have this problem before I took it to you. I took it to a professional he located the burned/melted wires exactly by the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused on how did this happen in the first place? I put my foot on the brake the engine cuts off and all my dashlights come on all of them. So did the mechanic mess my car up or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T03:02:40.803" Title="Toyota camry 1997 electrical short in Dashboard" Tags="|engine|electrical|toyota|camry|dashboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T01:46:00.307" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a follow up to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/22692/12739&quot;&gt;1994 Honda Accord EX (F22B1) - Valves still making a ticking noise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work I've done&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced head&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New valves, new seals new gaskets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;verified different &lt;s&gt;push thingy&lt;/s&gt; &lt;code&gt;Lost Motion Assemblies&lt;/code&gt; on intake was in spec and got all the air bubbles out before installing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;triple checked torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;triple checked valve clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New rod bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Main bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new thrust washers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranked it up expecting no noise, but still heard a ticking. While engine was idling I got under car to double check bolts and wires and things and thought that I heard the noise coming from a bearing. Ordered new main, rods, and thrust bearings and just replaced all those. Still have a loud ticking noise. I probably should have went after the rocker arm assembly and at this point that is what I'm thinking is wrong anyway. (Should have listened in the first place) Having looked at those &lt;s&gt;push thingies&lt;/s&gt; &lt;code&gt;Lost Motion Assemblies&lt;/code&gt; I noticed that the 2nd and 3rd cylinder's was worn a bunch more on the top then 1 and 4... Now that I'm saying it out loud I should have taken that as a hint. So my question is where can I get the parts to rebuild that thing (if such a kit exists?) I've searched amazon to no avail (maybe just typing in wrong thing) or should I just get a whole new rocker arm assembly. I'm just kind of upset right now so maybe I shouldn't be posting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12739" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T12:46:03.663" Title="Ticking after much engine work" Tags="|honda|noise|accord|valve|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35229" CreationDate="2016-08-15T02:01:38.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things that could have happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car manufacturer's are just horrible at keeping different engines different. Quite often, they will redesign an engine but still call it the exact same thing instead of adding a &quot;rev 2,&quot; &quot;B-spec&quot; or &quot;2nd gen&quot; to the name or whatever. Toyota are particularly bad for this, as some of their more popular engines can have 4 or 5 different versions floating around out there all with the exact same name. Now whenever somebody needs to replace their engine, they are looking for another engine of the same designation (&quot;engine name&quot;), but may end-up with a slightly different engine. If this happened to your Camry, maybe the mechanic putting it in made an incorrect electrical connection, or the electrical circuit needs a higher rated fuse than your old engine. There were a few engines available for the 97 Camry, tell us which one you had (there's probably a sticker under the hood somewhere).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since your other mechanic found melted wires, one possibility following an engine replacement is that your mechanic did not route the electrical wires the exact same way as before. This in itself isn't a problem, unless an electrical wire now comes into contact with something hot or something moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is also possible that your mechanic did absolutely nothing wrong, sometimes wires get loose and touch something they're not supposed to and fry themselves. This car is 20 years old, isn't it? :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:01:38.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35232" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35233" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T02:20:02.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35236" CreationDate="2016-08-15T03:10:35.687" Score="12" ViewCount="69026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning about vacuum leaks on engine intakes and I'm hearing this terminology of lean air fuel mixture. I thought I heard of a rich mixture before too. What's a normal mixture referred to as? A balanced mixture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just for clarity, this terminology doesn't apply to anything else in the vehicle does it? Like I wouldn't hear someone speaking of lean/rich oil, or lean/rich battery acid or some other substance the car uses right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T20:12:19.320" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T00:02:18.220" Title="What's the meaning of a &quot;lean&quot; vs &quot;rich&quot; air fuel mixture" Tags="|fuel-system|air-fuel-ratio|terminology|lean|rich|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35234" CreationDate="2016-08-15T03:30:27.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lean air/fuel mixture is when there is more air than required to burn the fuel.&#xA;A rich mixture is when there is too little air for the given quantity of fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal mixture, where there is exactly enough air to burn the fuel is known as the stoichiometric mixture and is about 15:1 for gasoline. That means 15 parts air to 1 part fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have a read of the wikipedia page that discusses this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this terminology is not used elsewhere for a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T03:30:27.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35234" CreationDate="2016-08-15T03:32:07.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know the etymology of these words or the history of their use in the context of air-fuel ratios, although their dictionary definitions (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dictionary.com/browse/lean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lean&lt;/a&gt; [adj.], &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dictionary.com/browse/rich&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rich&lt;/a&gt;, too bad I don't have an OED subscription) and usage in other contexts does parallel their usage here. I did some cursory research but gave up, the folks on &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;the English site&lt;/a&gt; may be able to help there. However, answering your basic question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terms are relative in the same sense that &quot;dim&quot; and &quot;bright&quot; are relative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Lean&quot; means a lower fuel-to-air ratio; that is, less fuel in the mix; compared to &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; context-dependent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Rich&quot; means a higher fuel-to-air ratio; that is, more fuel in the mix; compared to &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; context-dependent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you say, &quot;the air-fuel mixture is rich&quot; (or &quot;too rich&quot;, same thing), it is implied to mean that there is more fuel in the mix than there should be in whatever situation you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's a commonly quoted stoichiometrically ideal ratio of 14.7 air:gasoline. &quot;Stoichiometrically&quot; meaning that 14.7 masses of air react with 1 mass of gasoline according to the chemical reaction equation. This is &lt;em&gt;often&lt;/em&gt; the context. You can find an interesting discussion of the finer points of this number &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/gasoline-stoichiometry-calculation.182862/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, mostly centered on the definition of &quot;air&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in that sense, when speaking of gasoline, if you said the mixture was &quot;rich&quot; then it means the ratio is &amp;lt; 14.7:1 air:gas, and if you say it's lean, you mean the ratio is &gt; 14.7:1 air:gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 14.7 isn't the magic number for other types of fuels, and may not be the magic number even for gasoline depending on other conditions in the engine. If you're talking about &lt;em&gt;those&lt;/em&gt; situations, &quot;rich&quot; still means more than whatever amount of fuel is ideal for the given amount of air, and &quot;lean&quot; means less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if it was neither &quot;rich&quot; nor &quot;lean&quot; you'd call it... just right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I do not know why &quot;rich&quot; and &quot;lean&quot; were the chosen words for this, and wouldn't mind finding out, myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also just for clarity, this terminology doesn't apply to anything else in the vehicle does it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard it used in any other context. The words &quot;lean&quot; and &quot;rich&quot; are so strongly associated with the air-fuel ratio that if you told a mechanic that the battery acid was &quot;rich&quot; I suspect they would either wonder why you had gasoline in your battery acid, or why you were trying to build an engine that burned battery acid as a fuel, heh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:10.093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:46:25.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T05:09:47.423" Score="7" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;16 year old son had to have a 1988 4x4 Toyota. It has a five  inch lift. The brakes were crap, so sent it to a recommended mechanic and brakes are still crap. It is like they wont bleed. They go to the floor and zero back brakes. Mechanic says due to modified lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shut the truck down. Been sitting for two years. Now he is 18 and he is adamant about driving it. Wants to drive it to a friend's garage and fix it?!  Momma Bear is feeling uneasy. So any suggestions or verdicts of why only near nothing front brakes (goes to the floor and barely any brake) and zero back brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21614" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T12:36:43.320" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:26:05.580" Title="5 inch lift and no brakes" Tags="|toyota|brakes|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2016-08-15T06:48:45.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat around the bolt,especially if you are taking steel out of aluminium, otherwise heat the bolt, he's right about oxidation, but I try to heat around the bolt more-so and metal expands and use just good half in. Drive and work it a little at a time - tighten a little heat it then loosen and usually you can keep from the big nightmare, breaking it and yes I have used a candle too. It sure can help - but if I know the bolt is really rusty I'll heat and turn till it feels like it's gonna break then tighten a little then reheat and so on. There is nothing much worse than breaking a manifold bolt off then helicoil or re-tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ironic I ran into this. I've been working on an 83 ford 351w and that is just what I've been doing. I was replacing valve seals, and this motor is a mess. I happen to notice it looked like gaskets were really burnt. Heck,it didn't even have a gasket on either one. I have 3 yet to loosen and stopped at 2.00 am. Off tomorrow. I hope to get this thing running half decent. I shold have driven it more before I bought it, but it'll be ok - it has to. So real good ideas I'll keep in my box of tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21616" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T08:48:19.460" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T08:48:19.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T06:52:18.380" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adaptive air suspension on 2005 Audi A8 is slam to the ground only in the front what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21617" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T10:57:00.553" Title="Adaptive air suspension problems" Tags="|suspension|audi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2404" CreationDate="2016-08-15T08:37:33.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had approximately the same problem and finally solved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow acceleration ( when you press on the gas pedal the rpm rise but acceleration is very slow )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was a small crack in the pipe which connected from air filter to machine and this makes air leak. change the pipe and now big difference in acceleration. So, before changing any part first check all air pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got this solution after changed many pieces such as air filter and oil filter .... but It did not make any difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DjDx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DjDx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21615" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T08:37:33.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35237" CreationDate="2016-08-15T08:54:34.553" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly - NEVER drive any vehicle without fully working brakes - it is not worth the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt the lift is the cause, unless the brake lines were not lengthened when it was done - if they weren't, they need to be replaced with longer ones to take into account the extra height. Even if they were, check the condition of them and make sure there are no bulges or perishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, check the condition of the master cylinder and calipers/wheel cylinders - master cylinders can fail internally and so fail to work without any obvious signs of leaks. if in doubt, replace or refurbish them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T08:54:34.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35237" CreationDate="2016-08-15T10:15:57.017" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the vehicle equipped with a brake bias valve on the rear axle?  Some vehicles have a valve which adjusts the amount of rear brake balance sent to the rear brakes depending on ride height.  Theory goes that, the more weight over the back axle, the lower the back end of the vehicle will sit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adjustment is typically achieved by a mechanical arm attached to a spring which moves with the angle of the rear suspension.  When adjusting the height of a vehicle equipped with such a valve, the valve must be adjusted to prevent the rear wheels locking or receiving no braking effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is conceivable that such a device could be at the maximum extent of it's travel and preventing fluid from entering the rear brake lines during bleeding.  This could potentially lead to an air-lock in the hydraulic lines which could never be bled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the vehicle is equipped with such a device but it would be worth investigating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I echo the other responses on here regarding driving a vehicle with a braking malfunction.  If you want to move the vehicle to a workshop, put it on a suitable trailer or on the back of a recovery truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T10:15:57.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T10:29:56.787" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Im looking for some sort of linear actuator for diy chicken coop project with a 200mm travel, &#xA;and atleast 100mm/s speed, but generally the faster the better, force between 10 and 35lbs(5 to 15kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked online and linear actuator all seem to be VERY slow typically 10mm/s&#xA;but have an excess of force. typically 150kg. belt driven systems seem to be faster but are much more expensive.  I would ideally like to avoid a 1:20 lever arm but im not sure what else i can use to get the speed and travel. rc servos seem to not be quite enough 30k/cm is considered high torque. with a servo arm of 20cm and a 60 degree arm it would leave just 1.5kg force at the end. and i'm not sure that would be enough force but would be very fast. w what other options do i have for cheapish(£30-£50) linear motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21619" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T10:54:43.120" Title="Fast Linear actuator" Tags="|electrical|electronics|diy|motors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-15T14:58:06.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35243" CreationDate="2016-08-15T10:54:43.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered modifying your design to utilise springs or perhaps use a spring in tandem with an actuator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T10:54:43.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35239" CreationDate="2016-08-15T10:57:00.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I'd do is attach VAG-COM or VCDS to the vehicle and get the fault codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two possible reasons for the problem.  It could be that there is a physical fault or it could be something as simple as an electrical fault with the control circuits.  This is why my first port of call would be to check the fault codes instead of going right ahead with stripping the cars suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T10:57:00.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-15T13:23:03.123" Score="0" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I get started on fixing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21621" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T22:42:01.993" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T09:37:03.150" Title="2007 CTS low beam headlights don't work, but high beams do work" Tags="|electrical|headlight|cts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39020" CreationDate="2016-08-15T14:07:46.953" Score="3" ViewCount="3183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheerz,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, after a long trip I have noticed that the car started to use too much oil, 1L+ for 2000km (before I was adding 0.5-1.0L along 15000km and changing it afterwards). So I started to look where the leak was coming from and it seems that it is the ignition distributor causing the problem. Unfortunately I have remembered to take the pictures only after the disassemble and some cleaning, but the red zone, in the following picture, indicates where I had the oil spot, propagated to the lower parts of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDHxT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDHxT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leaking part&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is actually causing the oil leak? The rubber between the ignition distributor and the cap(that rubber was full of oil and actually with bad quality)? I have been reading a bit about it, seems that also can be the O-ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How I can actually disassemble the distributor further? There are 3 small bolts attaching the plastic part to metal, but I will not be able to remove it in any way, because of the rotor. I have a picture from another side, I see small stopper(?) there (see the picture below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNhqw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNhqw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The &amp;quot;stopper&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Before fully disassembling it, what are the marks which are needed to be done? I have understood the importance of the marks, after not putting it back correctly yesterday and having acceleration problems today :D (which I already got fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10926" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T12:35:46.880" Title="Diagnosing the oil leak in ignition distributor" Tags="|oil-leak|mitsubishi|distributor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35270" CreationDate="2016-08-15T15:07:07.683" Score="9" ViewCount="3101" Body="&lt;p&gt;For very large bolts (example: axle nut) I often see mechanics just use an impact wrench, typically they let it &quot;rattle&quot; a certain time and then they consider the bolt tightened. Is this also common/considered acceptable practice in other shops/locations? For smaller bolts or applications like head bolts, alloy rims and other delicate stuff I am 100% sure that you need a torque wrench and taking shortcuts leads to disasters, but on real massive bolts I am inclined to consider the mentioned practice to be alright (within certain limits). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I am asking this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axle nut on my Astra H demands 250NM, my larger torque wrench has a range up to 200NM, so I cannot use it for this job. I do not want to buy a wrench that goes slightly over 250NM, because then I would have bought two wrenches with mostly the same range. An expensive alternative would be a 3/4&quot; wrench, so I would be prepared for future tasks, but it seems to be overkill, also financially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite reluctant to spend a lot of money on tools just for the axle nut, also I do not think that I will be using it often. The axle is a M22 fine thread, the nut is self locking, the bearing is in an integrated unit and already pre-loaded. Should I buy a matching torque wrench or just bash the nut on with the impact wrench ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T14:18:36.237" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T10:07:30.457" Title="Torque wrench or impact gun on large bolts" Tags="|tools|torque|axle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35249" CreationDate="2016-08-15T15:20:32.097" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, this is a &quot;standard practice&quot; but a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;VERY&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; poor one. Getting the correct torque is by far more important than getting it done quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the axle nut it is imperative you tighten it to the correct spec. If you tighten it too tight, the wheel bearing will self destruct within a few hundred miles. Using an impact gun can surely over tighten it. You'll not know what torque it really has gone to. I tightened up the axle nut on my 06 Silverado with an impact gun, then went back to torque it to spec, only to figure out I had over tightened it. I had to go back, loosen, then torque it. Like I said, an impact can easily go over your torque threshold. If left unchecked, can cause catastrophic damage. It is well worth your time to get the tool or borrow one which will allow you to get where you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T15:25:37.533" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T15:25:37.533" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35330" CreationDate="2016-08-15T16:54:57.177" Score="7" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an oil leak from the oil cooler on my 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L, and was having a hard time finding the oil seal / gasket.  I finally found a shop that said they had one which would fit.  However, when I got home and pulled out the old one I wasn't quite so sure ( the original is on bottom and is kinda mushed on the side facing the engine ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uszrc.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uszrc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then placed the new on on top of the original and could see that they didn't seem to be exactly the same size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TiQc.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TiQc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new one was clearly slightly larger in diameter than the old one.  However, I thought I'd try and install it as I figured maybe the original had shrunk or gotten deformed over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtX5x.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtX5x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how well it can be seen from this picture, but the seal was slightly too big and I had to kinda squish it into place, such that it wasn't flush.  I went ahead and installed it, and after I had tightened it down I noticed part of the seal was sticking out the bottom of the oil cooler and I ended up with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pa7WB.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pa7WB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure the seal slipped partially out of place when I turned the oil cooler on it's side to install it.  I'm assuming it's quite likely this would not have happened if I had done something like put some grease on the oil cooler side and stuck the seal into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was this obviously the wrong part and am I at fault for trying to install it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I have used grease to hold the seal in place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To what extent is this my problem and do I have any gripe / basis for a refund at this point from the parts store that sold it to me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T21:22:58.390" Title="Is messing up this gasket my fault?" Tags="|oil-leak|oil-seal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35251" CreationDate="2016-08-15T17:07:52.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;New seals that are too large are unlikey to fit. You need one that has the correct internal diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need anything to hold the seal in place. You might benefit from a small wiping of oil to help lubricate it when the new oil cooler is put in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much did the seal cost you? Less than $5, I'd say. Just chalk it up to experience, go to the Mazda dealer (with your old seal) and ask for a replacement. They should have something that fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T17:07:52.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35255" CreationDate="2016-08-15T17:24:09.773" Score="4" ViewCount="5856" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 2002 Chevy Silverado (Z71, 4WD), turning left seems significantly more difficult than turning right, the latter of which poses no issues. According to the mechanic, I have the following issues (to the best of my comprehension) -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power steering pump is leaking in the back near the pulley, restricting the PSI that can get through the line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the power steering will help the immediate issue, so I'm getting that done, but apparently all of the stuff listed needs to be replaced at this point. Does this seem accurate? How difficult is it to verify these and do the necessary replacements myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE - According to the mechanic, it seems the leaking pump caused to gearbox to start wearing out, which is the cause of the left turn problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE - The arm repairs are related to alignment, not steering, so those are unrelated to the main issue. I've moved those below -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inner and outer tie rods have some play in them, and as such need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also play in the pitman arm, so it needs to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also play in the idler arms, so they need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once all of the arms are replaced, the alignment can be performed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21626" LastEditorUserId="21626" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T22:29:29.043" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T07:53:46.667" Title="Problems turning left in a 2002 Chevy Silverado" Tags="|chevrolet|power-steering|silverado|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35253" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:00:08.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to confirm the diagnosis, you may want to get a second opinion. Some shops will do front-end inspections for free. If the truck is more difficult to steer in one direction only, it does suggest something's not mechanically right with the suspension or steering, but I doubt the power-steering pump is the real culprit. Also, to remove other potential causes, try putting the truck in other transmission modes (2WD Hi and Low, etc) and try the steering with those. Also keep in mind that your steering box may have a leak and need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of fixing this yourself, this is very doable, but not for the faint of heart. Suspension and steering components tend to rust, making bolts potentially difficult to remove. You will most likely need some penetrating oil, and possibly a torch to heat the bolts up if they really don't budge. Also, suspension bolts tend to be quite large, requiring large-sized wrenches and sockets, sometimes even deep sockets. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the bolts up to spec when you are done.&#xA;The best place to buy wrenches and sockets are pawn shops, torque wrench is best bought new so you know it hasn't been molested. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is doable, it just depends on your level of skill, tools you have available and how gung-ho you are about this. This is only a few hours of work if there are no issues, but be ready to have the truck sit for a few days if you get stuck removing one of the components and either rage-quit for a few hours or need to go somewhere :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a Youtube video for &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ihIR7tssfJs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the tie-rods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a Youtube video for &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-L0exX3BRaE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the upper control arm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a Youtube video for &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/3ST9DLuKI0g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the lower control arm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a 2-part Youtube video for &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cu8Da5W53Uo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the pitman arm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cz9U2RFnMto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a Youtube video for &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/q4PpeCZQEtw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the idler arm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:00:08.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29249" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:17:28.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ended up being left front wheel bearing. Shortly after the bearing started to squeal. After the replacement, all issues are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:17:28.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35266" CreationDate="2016-08-15T21:26:29.573" Score="2" ViewCount="4321" Body="&lt;p&gt;The long brake line from the front to the rear in my '98 Dodge Dakota rotted out and I'm half-way through replacing it.  (The title says '99 Dakota because the brakes are the '99 design.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the 4 ends I've seen of the old brake lines are bubble flares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The old lines definitely appear to be factory bent so I would assume they were bubble flared by the factory also.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the forums I've checked and &lt;strong&gt;the manual&lt;/strong&gt; on alldatadiy.com say &lt;strong&gt;to double flare&lt;/strong&gt; the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Should I double flare or bubble flare the brake lines on a '99 Dakota?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this matters because the &lt;code&gt;seats&lt;/code&gt; in the female parts are very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old line:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPOM1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mPOM1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside of union:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e29pH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e29pH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10831" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T22:33:44.013" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:29:05.510" Title="Does a '99 Dakota brake lines use a bubble flare or a double flare?" Tags="|dodge|dakota|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35263" CreationDate="2016-08-15T22:08:14.380" Score="6" ViewCount="22209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I really need bulb grease when changing low-beam or high-beam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16481" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T22:48:54.527" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:55:50.577" Title="How important is bulb grease when changing low-beam or high-beam headlights?" Tags="|electrical|headlight|grease|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35246" CreationDate="2016-08-15T22:48:11.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is common for low beams to get used more than the highs, so it might be as simple as checking and changing the bulbs. Failing that, start by checking the fuse(es). If neither of those moves solve the problem, here are a few questions and answers that will probably help if you get it sorted out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1792/low-beam-headlights-dont-work-high-beam-headlights-do?rq=1&quot;&gt;Low beam headlights don't work, High beam headlights do&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18564/high-beams-work-low-beams-dont-but?rq=1&quot;&gt;High Beams work, Low beams don't, But…&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, take a look at the Related links on the right, there is often good information there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:48:11.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35260" CreationDate="2016-08-15T22:51:26.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't &quot;really need&quot; it. However, the purpose of the grease is to keep out moisture that can degrade the connection and the bulb's performance. So if you see any signs of corrosion when you remove the old bulb, I would say that it would be a very good idea to clean the socket well and use some grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my, limited, experience the bulbs that tend to need it the most are the tail lights, the license plate light, and the side markers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:51:26.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35260" CreationDate="2016-08-15T22:55:50.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are referring to is dielectric grease. It doesn't conduct electricity so it is safe to use on electrical connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern vehicle assembly lines don't grease bulbs because the rubber seals are sufficient at keeping moisture out, the electrical connection can be made more reliably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if the rubber isn't sealing properly, the grease may help with that and will prevent corrosion on the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting grease or any other contaminant on the glass part of bulbs can shorten the working life of the bulb, its best to wear gloves to prevent skin oils from getting on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the terminals are corroded, remove corrosion with a wire brush and apply grease, otherwise leave it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:55:50.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35183" CreationDate="2016-08-15T23:13:31.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drawing from years of experience with many glass treatments, if anything, RainX increases the wiper blade life when used properly. This could either be due reduced use of the wipers or the added lubrication between glass and blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've had a set of Bosch flexible wiper blades on my car for a little over a year now, and they've always worked great. Recently, I washed my car, wiped down the blades, and applied Rain-ex to the windshield. I have also been using the Rain-ex windshield washer fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About one year of use from a set of wiper blades is acceptable (depending on the environment), I think its the end of their effective life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if how a 1 year old wiper blade would react if it were exposed to liquid RainX but it is a valid theory that this sent them on their way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:13:31.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35109" CreationDate="2016-08-15T23:23:21.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you already found the big hint somewhere else:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35109/04-lexus-es330-multiple-ignition-coil-failures?noredirect=1#comment58112_35109&quot;&gt;Ben wrote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It would be hard to test the coils off the car without some kind of setup to generate the trigger signal. Actually I just learned that all 6 coils may not necessarily be bad. When an ignitor fails it can pull down the IGF circuit causing all 6 codes to appear. It doesn't always happen but it can. ... More testing is required to see if one coil is truly pulling down the IGF circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible ways to test that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect / swap-in-a-known-good‌​-one one at a time and see if the signals return on the others (or just leave one at a time connected so it doesn't hide the issue if 2 or more failed in this way).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe: If the IGF lines are powered (and intended to be held high) when the ignition is on but not running, you might be able to do the test a lot more quickly and conveniently by just disconnecting coils without the engine running and checking if the line goes back up to 12V. Not sure if that would work, but if it does, it means you can perform the IGF line tests with a voltmeter instead of a proper scope.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to do, if you have the ability, is to test the coils on their own not in the vehicle. Like in another car or on the bench, completely isolated from the problem car, to make sure the coils are actually failed and it's not some insidious electrical problem or other damaged part somewhere that's muddling the signals on otherwise fine coils. This is important so that you can determine if every coil did indeed fail vs. some other problem that just makes it look like they failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ideas when all (or many) coils appear to have failed at once, which may or may not have much merit because I have zero experience with the finer points of ignition coils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I read, can't remember where, that a cause could be if the ICM sticks in start mode too long, for whatever reason, when starting the car instead of switching to run, and if it sends a higher voltage to the coils in start mode, it could fry multiple coils if it sticks in start mode too long. So I guess it's possible that that happened once and killed everything. I dunno much about it. The forum post was about Toyotas though. (The OP, however, did mention that this vehicle did not have a system like this.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the wrong set of spark plugs all around somehow damaged the coils? Also no idea what I'm talking about just throwing things out there. My gut says this is unlikely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this case the ECU was replaced, ruling that out, but a failing ECU or electrical issue in that area could also always be a culprit, especially if the problem persists after exhausting other possibilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody please correct me if those are stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be noted that the OP's hypothesis of one bad coil holding down the IGF lines on the rest was the cause of the original problem here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35109/04-lexus-es330-multiple-ignition-coil-failures?noredirect=1#comment58385_35109&quot;&gt;Ben wrote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This one has been resolved the #4 coil was dragging down the whole circuit. They opted to replace all the coils due to age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lot of good ideas for future readers here but the important points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test to verify that every coil &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; failed vs. it just looking like they all did because of some other underlying issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In ignition systems with feedback signals, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible that one coil can fail in such a way as to hold the IGF lines down; the symptoms being the ones described by the OP: An apparently OK ignition sequence but lack of a good feedback signal and resultant ECU confusion. I'd also imagine even in non-feedback systems that the general pattern of &quot;one failed X making it look like every X failed&quot; could pop up, so do what you can to isolate the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:28:44.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35259" CreationDate="2016-08-15T23:29:05.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your truck has bubble flare type terminations, you need to use same same for the replacement. If you don't, you have to know it will leak. It really doesn't matter what the &quot;book&quot; says when what's staring you in the face is the answer. Neither end of the connection (male or female) is double flare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:29:05.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35248" CreationDate="2016-08-16T02:37:20.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned there may likely be a shaft seal issue,  however I would also check engine breathers etc as the internal pressure may be too high forcing oil to weap through the weakest seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T02:37:20.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35274" CreationDate="2016-08-16T02:38:48.370" Score="1" ViewCount="3535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about getting the Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS headunit for my 2005 Honda Pilot EX but I want to keep costs as low as possible, so can I use the stock subwoofer by tapping into the Sub+ and Sub- wires with some PosiTap connectors or will I have to buy a separate powered subwoofer. Is there an amplifier built in to the car or does the stock headunit amplify the signal inside the unit? I have heard that the subwoofer is 50W. I tried researching this but I got many mixed answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17498" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T14:53:35.473" Title="Can I Use The Stock Honda Pilot Subwoofer On an AF Headunit" Tags="|honda|audio|electronics|pilot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35249" CreationDate="2016-08-16T03:02:42.107" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get a 1m long bar (by extending a breaker or similar), stick it on the nut so that it is &lt;strong&gt;horizontal&lt;/strong&gt; and simply hang 250N of mass at the end of it: (*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;250N = 56.2 lbs = 25.5 Kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;250N * 1m = 250Nm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinse and repeat until it hangs and doesn't tighten the nut anymore. The trick is to keep the bar horizontal, you'll likely need a 12-point socket to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't need to be 1m, just do the math for whatever length you've got there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kg = 25.5/length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;lbs = 56.2/length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water in a bucket could work well for mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(*) this ignores the integrated mass of the breaker bar itself, which will mean that there will be slightly more torque than calculated. - this effect will be 'worse' the longer the bar is. But then we're &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; not accounting for static vs. dynamic friction anyway, which isn't usually accounted for with standard torque wrenches... :) &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21643" LastEditorUserId="21643" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T21:18:41.553" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T21:18:41.553" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35237" CreationDate="2016-08-16T03:25:26.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put a 5 in lift on a 2013 Jeep wrangler Jk sport. When my bf and I installed the new coil springs it was necessary to drill a new hole and push the brake line back/ re-shape it to ensure enough slack is present. If there is too much strain this could cause the brakes to have a poor connection and even break due to the tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21644" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T03:25:26.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T04:24:21.967" Score="1" ViewCount="4184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an &lt;code&gt;RV (1974 Dodge Sportsman)&lt;/code&gt; for a very small price. The vehicule was running good for 20 30 miles, then I made a stop and he refused to start again. The autoradio made a simple bip and then nothing - silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a very beginner in mechanics. &#xA;What are the troubleshooting procedure on this kind of vehicule.&#xA;I thought changing the battery...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HERE IS A DETAILED UPDATE (18-08-16) :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the battery and the starter. I can the hear the starter crank but the engine won't start.&#xA;Tips to start an old engine : start from neutral, push brakes, pump gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I meet the seller in Watsonville, CA. He looks to make it run from the first try but I can’t see what he did to turn it on. I purchase the vehicle for $800. As he left, I can turn off and turn on the vehicle easily. I refill the gas and no issues to turn it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drive a bit on Highway1 and I stop at Capitola to answer a call and .. can’t turn it on anymore. I turn the key, I can hear the radio bip but the engine doesn’t start. I do it twice an then as I turn the key nothing happen anymore. I guess it’s the battery, so the next day a very nice guy from Capitola helps me to jumpstart it. I turn the key and I can hear the radio sounds but the engine won’t start. The man takes my seat and manage to turn it on. I learn a first trick: to turn it on I need to push the brakes and pump a bit the gas. I drive up to San Francisco, I park it. 5 min later I try to turn it on, and it won’t. Same as in Capitola, I can hear the radio sounds once, twice and then nothing happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend come to help me. We check the battery at the autopart Oreilly. They charge it and says it’s good. We remove the starter and check it at Oreilly again. They says it’s good. The seller told us that the engine might not work because the starter won’t work when the motor is warm. We purchase a new starter and a multimeter for $55. The next day we clean the battery wires, put the &lt;strong&gt;new starter&lt;/strong&gt;. Turn the key and nothing happen. I switch from Departure to Neutral. Turn the key and we can hear the starter working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second try, Boom! the engine starts! We start to pack our stuff, and 10 min later, it won’t turn on again. We remove the &lt;strong&gt;alternator&lt;/strong&gt; and go check it at Oreilly autopart. They says it works. We go check our battery again and they say it’s good but by doing a deeper test they can see that it might not be powerful enough to run the starter well. We put the alternator back. We &lt;strong&gt;change to a new battery for $150&lt;/strong&gt; (we kept the old battery). Turn the key and we can hear the starter but the engine won’t start. We try to put some &quot;fuel spray&quot; from the input of the motor but even with that nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we check other stuff ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21646" LastEditorUserId="21646" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T22:18:26.767" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T04:42:43.837" Title="1974 Dodge Sportsman RV won't start - how to troubleshoot an RV" Tags="|troubleshooting|rv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35269" CreationDate="2016-08-16T04:55:15.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The AVH-X5800BHS has a 70 watt channel dedicated to a subwoofer.  This is good into 2 ohms, so this should work very well on your Honda Pilot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brandsmartusa.com/pdfs/manuals/20202193.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AVH-X5800BHS Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to page 54 for wiring information for a subwoofer.  Note that wiring depends on speaker impedance, so in your case you should see if the magnet is labeled, or measure DC resistance with a meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure about the wiring, you should google or go to Crutchfield to locate a specific harness adapter for your head unit and specific vehicle.  This will not only save a lot of time, it leaves the OEM stock harness intact, in case you ever change again or even change back to stock for resale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T13:29:36.657" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:29:36.657" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35237" CreationDate="2016-08-16T05:22:50.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checked for worn brake lines? The old pipes sometimes bulge and deform under pressure instead of pressing the brakepad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21648" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T05:22:50.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18576" CreationDate="2016-08-16T06:33:27.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vehicle has slow acceleration issue, when you press on the gas pedal the RPM's rise but acceleration is very poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was a small crack in the pipe which connected from air filter to machine and this makes air leak. change the pipe and now big difference in acceleration. So, before changing any part first check all air pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got this solution after changed many pieces such as air filter and oil filter .... but It did not make any difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J49Ay.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J49Ay.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21615" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T08:20:06.893" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T08:20:06.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35306" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:36:45.580" Score="1" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a fairly serious oil leak from the base of the oil cooler on my 98 Mazda 626.  The thing is, that after removing the old gasket, I couldn't see anything obvious wrong with it in the sense of there not being any obvious tears, cracks or missing bits. The engine facing side of the gasket is kind of flattened / squished as can be seen in the picture.  So I'm wondering exactly what the problem with the old gasket actually is.  Here are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufmvY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufmvY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhkfz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mhkfz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35251/is-messing-up-this-gasket-my-fault&quot;&gt;There are also some other pictures in this other question I asked&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:27:25.653" Title="Why is this Oil Cooler O-Ring / Gasket Bad?" Tags="|oil-seal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35282" CreationDate="2016-08-16T07:43:56.377" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying a new oil cooler o-ring for my 98 Mazda 626 2L where I live is extremely expensive, I'm not sure that even the dealer ship has the right part and I can't seem to find a part number anywhere.  I ran across this post regarding &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mx6.com/forums/2404812-post4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;changing the oil cooler gasket on a Mazda MX-6&lt;/a&gt; which uses a similar o-ring type gasket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But yes, using the gasket off a regular oil filter does seem to work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever heard of such a thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T08:50:20.193" Title="Using an oil filter o-ring in place of an oil cooler o-ring?" Tags="|oil-seal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T08:12:36.037" Score="2" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a sound from the tyres of my car and someone told me it is hubs of the wheels of the car that are spoilt. Therefore, can that be the reason for the noise and more so, what are the effects of this spoilt hubs if the car is driven with these spoilt hubs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21590" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:55:05.313" Title="What are the side effects of bad hubs in a car" Tags="|vw|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35278" CreationDate="2016-08-16T08:46:51.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the O-rings in both applications are designed to be compatible with oil, material suitability shouldn't be a concern. As long as the O-rings share the same size and profile, the two should be interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T08:46:51.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35290" CreationDate="2016-08-16T10:22:02.643" Score="4" ViewCount="9195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with magnetos from aircraft engines, and alternators from car engines. I'm learning more about motorcycle systems now, and studying stator and rotor systems. This article has helped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if these two systems are equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A magneto system like in a lawnmower, with a permanent magnet on a flywheel passing an induction coil and transformer, connected to the spark plug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A stator with several sets of windings on it, and a flywheel rotor with permanent magnets on it, connected to the spark plug through a coil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know we then attach regulator and rectifier packs to then create useful DC power, but to just run the engine, that's not required, correct? That is to say I could start the engine with no battery at all, like a magneto?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there's another form of stator and rotor, where power from the battery is passed through a coil to create an electromagnet, which then takes the role of the permanent magnet rotor in my previous example. Why would I do this? Is it so I don't need a regulator, because I can modulate the strength of the electromagnetic field? I would still need a rectifier in that system though, is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please feel free to point me to a good article covering this, I've failed to find one! Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21654" LastEditorUserId="21661" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T14:43:49.150" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:10:59.987" Title="Stator and Rotor vs Magneto" Tags="|motorcycle|alternator|stator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T11:31:22.427" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Own a Mahindra 4*4 Pickup truck , Its running at high temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have changed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radiator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hoses pipe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please could you help me resolve the prblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21657" LastEditorUserId="10373" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T13:01:38.843" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:01:38.843" Title="Troubleshooting Cooling System Problem" Tags="|troubleshooting|cooling-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35171" CreationDate="2016-08-16T12:09:13.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers have addressed the environmental and health concerns, however, I want to add a few points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, if the specified fuel is not used, this can cause more problems than just a damaged catalytic converter. You should address this as a separate issue. Most manufacturers will specify a minimum requirement and recommended standard - don't confuse the two. Read about the different rating standards here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Octane Rating&quot;&gt;Octane Rating wiki&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, Find out whether your fuel stations use RON, MON or AKI ratings.&#xA;If you are unable to use the recommended spec but can &lt;strong&gt;use the minimum spec, then there should be no harm to your catalytic converter&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes that your fuel suppliers and fuel stations adhere to these standards.&#xA;I know some parts of the world don't have good standard enforcement and fuel can be mixed with water or other contaminants. This is a separate issue, so please update the question if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, removing the catalytic converter may trigger a fault code which will illuminate the check engine light (assuming you have one). You can get around this by &lt;strong&gt;fitting a spacer on the downstream lambda (O2) sensor&lt;/strong&gt;. This way you will have a normally functioning check engine light should you have any actual faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would &lt;strong&gt;leave the catalytic converter in place&lt;/strong&gt; until you are certain it is damaged. I would only remove it if it becomes clogged/blocked causing performance issues. In that situation, replace it with a free flowing silencer box / resonator / muffler. If you replace it with a straight pipe it may make the engine sound become undesirable. Make sure this is done properly with proper flanges and gaskets to prevent the exhaust blowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21638" LastEditorUserId="21638" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T15:24:39.273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T15:24:39.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35285" CreationDate="2016-08-16T12:15:35.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first two things you want to do is establish that the vehicle is actually running hot and that the coolant system is healthy.  It may be something as simple as the gauge on your dashboard misreporting temperature.  One good way to do this is the switch on the cabin heating.  If it's very hot, it's fair to say that the vehicle is running hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the system COLD, check that the vehicle has the correct amount of coolant.  If it's low, top it up.  Do this with the heater control set on &quot;Hot&quot; and be sure to squeeze the radiator hoses to make sure no air is trapped in the system.  Once you are happy that the coolant level is correct, before you refit the cap, start the engine.  Look at the coolant, does it look like it's circulating?  Again squeeze any air out of the radiator pipes.  After the vehicle has been started, stop it and check the coolant level hasn't dropped.  If it has, add coolant and repeat.  If you find that the coolant level drops after a few days use, you may have a leak somewhere on the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that the vehicle gets hot when stationary, it may be that the radiator fan isn't effectively cooling the raditor.  There are two types of fan; electric and mechanical.  The electric fans rely on wiring and for testing, you can bridge the wires and the fan should run.  For the mechanical system, there is a thermostatic clutch which runs the fan when it warms up.  This can fail meaning the fan doesn't spin as quickly as it ought to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gauge is working, the coolant is circulating, not leaking and the fan is healthy; check the condition of the radiator.  If it has damage, is missing fins or is blocked with debris, it won't be able to effectively transfer the heat away from the system.  A quick blast of the fins with a hose (whilst cold) is usually enough to dislodge any debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of this has worked (and assuming your other levels such as oil are not low) it may be time to have a compression test carried out to establish the health of your cars head gasket.  If you don't have access to a compression tester, your local mechanic shouldn't charge you much to carry this out.  Also, check for signs of coolant entering the oil system.  If you find white, creamy deposits inside the oil cap, this is an indicator that the coolant and oil have been mixing.  In a vehicle equipped with a water-oil oil cooler this can be the cause but it usually indicates a loss of integrity of the head gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T12:15:35.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:00:38.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ford Fiesta Style (05) and was wondering if it would be possible to determine the status of the doors of the vehicle through the OBD-II bus?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In particular I want to know whether or not the doors are locked or unlocked - is this something that can be attained through OBDII?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21662" LastEditorUserId="13657" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T13:08:40.127" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:08:40.127" Title="Door Monitoring Through OBD-II Bus" Tags="|electrical|ford|obd-ii|locks|door|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35283" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:07:07.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magneto_(power_generation)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;magneto&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is an &lt;strong&gt;alternator&lt;/strong&gt; with a permanent magnet. Your two examples may differ in the way that they produce a higher voltage, through &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_induction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;electromagnetic induction&lt;/a&gt;, but they appear to be functionally equivalent. An AC or DC source with sufficiently high voltage may be used to generate the arc gap required for your spark plug by way of coils and/or transformers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple engine systems (i.e. lawnmowers) don't need regulated DC to power the spark plug, therefore don't need a rectifier/regulator or battery. See here for more info on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.old-engine.com/maglma.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;magneto&lt;/strong&gt; ignition&lt;/a&gt; theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gforceconsulting.com/A_primer_on_ATV_charging_systems.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;alternators&lt;/strong&gt; require air cooling while &lt;strong&gt;magnetos&lt;/strong&gt; have the advantage of being internally packaged due to their higher temperature tolerance. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2002/05/thermal-design-challenges-in-automotive-alternator-power-electronics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more info on the history of thermal design challenges in modern alternators which typically integrate the rectifier/regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21661" LastEditorUserId="21661" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T19:10:59.987" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:10:59.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:28:42.493" Score="3" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Prius. Once I stopped the engine of the car and stood for sometime. Then I started the vehicle. But it didnot start the engine. It starts indicating all range, petrol level etc. But when I shift the gear all the meters fadeoff and automatically put into ignition mode making orange color in Power push start button. Why that happens ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7666" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:28:42.493" Title="Toyota Prius Does not Start up" Tags="|toyota|prius|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:33:21.667" Score="2" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Lexus ES300. Recently, while someone else was in possession of my car, they caused some issues when they ran my new battery dead and then  jump started it backwards, shorting out my alternator and alternator fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing these I noticed that the light illuminated on my dash indicating I had two burnt out rear bulbs, it was my 3rd brake light which is located in with my regular brake lights and tail lights (not above in the rear window). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced these bulbs (both were blown), however the light came back on. I rechecked the bulbs and they are good. I am unable to locate a fuse that could control just the third brake light. Every fuse I have checked looks good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any knowledge of what this could be that can help me out? I'd greatly appreciate any input! Thanks in advance for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21663" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T14:04:55.370" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T14:04:55.370" Title="2000 Lexus ES300, 3rd brake light is out" Tags="|toyota|tail-lights|lexus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35292" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:46:06.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt your third brake light is located with the other brake lights, unless this is a non-US spec vehicle, or perhaps some sort of convertible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Center High Mounted Stop Lamp or CHMSL is exactly that.  It must be high and centered, defined by agreed-upon SAE specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you certain there isn't a light on the rear parcel shelf?  I believe in order to replace that bulb, you have to undo screws from inside the trunk, and then the light can be pried carefully off the rear shelf from inside the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:46:06.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:56:21.373" Score="5" ViewCount="3657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting code P0420 on an '03 Vibe. The rule of thumb is that this means the catalytic converter is gone. Yet the pre- and post- cat O2 signals &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/29855/5109&quot;&gt;appear&lt;/a&gt; to indicate that the cat is doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRm8R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRm8R.png&quot; alt=&quot;O2 signals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately Toyota/GM have designed the entire exhaust manifold as a single piece, a part whose cost exceeds $1000. I'm not sure that pulling an old cat from a graveyard and splicing it in would be worth it. It may not last and the labor cost would be high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But given the O2 signals shown above, it's not even clear that changing the cat will get rid of the CEL and the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be malfunctioning and causing the P0420 code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To assist SteveMattews (and other helpful folks) I'm adding a picture showing what the post cat O2 sensor and cable look like. The 90-degree angle that the cable makes at the point it enters the chassis indeed looks suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx1cr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mx1cr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;post-cat O2 sensor and cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5109" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T17:01:34.440" Title="How could the code point to a faulty cat, when the O2 signals are normal?" Tags="|o2-sensor|catalytic-converter|p0420|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T14:27:49.213" Score="2" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;2005 VW Golf 1.4 5-door hatchback manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep having to get my car jump started everyday after &lt;em&gt;only a few hours&lt;/em&gt; of being parked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key, it just does a &quot;click, click, click&quot; noise continuously. When I unlock the car, the front lights come on as normal and the inside lights come on. When I turn the key, the dash lights up as normal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, &lt;em&gt;the car won't start without a jump start.&lt;/em&gt; I replaced the battery, it's brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21665" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T13:54:21.647" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T13:54:21.647" Title="2005 VW Golf 1.4 will not start, has new battery" Tags="|electrical|battery|starting|vw|jump-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35295" CreationDate="2016-08-16T14:44:17.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You either have an open circuit draining the battery when the car is parked or you have a corroded battery terminal meaning that the starter isn't able to draw sufficient current when starting the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prove which it is, next time you park the car, disconnect one of the battery terminals (probably after you've locked it, otherwise you might not be able to secure the car).  When you return, reconnect the terminal and see if the car starts.  If it does, you have an open circuit.  Check things like the light in the boot and glovebox, that the radio is switching to standby and that there isn't an aftermarket alarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is still difficult to start, remove each of the cables where they attach to the battery and clean then with some emery paper or a needle file.  Make sure that they are clamping onto the battery terminals nice and tight and apply some grease to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T14:44:17.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T15:09:03.977" Score="4" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this used car about a month ago. I was told that they changed all the fluids and made sure everything was running ok. About a week after I brought home I started to hear a noise in like my dash or somewhere around there. I only hear it when I first put my car in drive and take off. It sounds like water or some sort of liquid is moving through my dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T15:43:04.927" Title="2015 Dodge Dart" Tags="|noise|dodge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35297" CreationDate="2016-08-16T15:43:04.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The evaporator drain in the HVAC case is clogged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the condensation that comes off the air conditioner when running collects in the plastic case that surrounds it, and then drains through a small rubber tube through the firewall or floorboard area to the ground outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this case usually collects fresh air from outside (usually the vents on the cowl, directly under the windshield outside) it also collects dust, dirt, leaves, pine needles, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These clog the drain, the condesation (water) level build in the case, and this causes the liquid sloshing noise you hear.  Because it's liquid, and it's sloshing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a relatively simple and inexpensive repair that most any shop should be able to provide.  Basically, you unblock the drain from the outside, and empty the nasty contents of the HVAC housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T15:43:04.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35294" CreationDate="2016-08-16T16:07:22.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the secondary O2 sensor is reading properly.  If the cat were actually shot (a legitimate P0420 code)   the bottom graph of secondary O2 should be very similar to the top &quot;primary&quot; O2 aka &quot;Sensor 1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind the cat needs to be fully heated for these graphs to be the most useful.  Your pictures look like the &lt;em&gt;Torque&lt;/em&gt; cellphone app for a bluetooth OBD2 reader, so I'm assuming you can capture during highway cruise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, a properly working cat (and downstream O2 sensor) should yield a reduced-amplitude output quite similar to the upstream output.  It should rise and fall, and transition roughly the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your secondary looks pegged rich.  Unless the cat was cold, I suspect the O2 is bad.  I would not suggest trying to repair the wiring, even if you discover a specific problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T16:07:22.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35295" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:51:13.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try starting the car right after shutting it down. If it will crank then, your battery connections and starter circuit are likely to be good (or at least not awful). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would lead to thinking that there is a drain of some sort pulling your battery down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T17:51:13.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12285" CreationDate="2016-08-16T18:04:52.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;just had this problem on a friends bike after a late night recovery call I couldn't fix roadside so threw it in my garage - 99 derbi gpr50r &#xA;symptoms and quick checks...&#xA;the spark was there, carb was cleaned out, felt like compression when finger over plug hole but nowhere near enough, wouldn't even fire with carb cleaner poured into combustion chamber, but occasionally would start bump starting on a hill (but ran rough and sounded wrong ooh so wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you might be able to do this in bike but I dropped the engine for fun.&#xA;pull off the head then the barrel from the piston push out the gudgeon pin and remove piston for best view &#xA;- there was scoring on the barrel and the ring had 'notched' causing a stuck ring on one side and was flush with the piston (see the problem yet)&#xA;a new piston (£13) and a little wet and dry paper would work but no guarantees on how long for (I don't advise this)(+£13 for gaskets = £26)&#xA;a new barrel piston gaskets and all the little extra bits start at £50 on fleabay but we spent £65 to get a slightly better quality one&#xA;you are open to decide if you want to go big bore kit as this is the best time to make the decision - up too you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;search google for carl salter to get manuals for torque numbers etc - I advise to buy beg borrow but not steal a torque wrench and doing it right - and add some copper slip on your nuts (as in nuts and bolts) doing it right now saves doing it wrong later and MOST IMPORTANT COVER NEW PISTON AND BARREL IN NICE NEW 2T OIL WHILE ASEMBLING TO EASE WEARING IN AND MAKE SURE YOUR OIL PUMP IS WORKING AND HOSE ON CORRECTLY AS THIS IS OFTEN THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM&#xA;SHE WILL SMOKE A LOT TO START WITH BUT DONT WORRY ABOUT IT TOO MUCH IT IS A STROKER AFTER ALL.&#xA;-HAVE FUN, OZZY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T18:04:52.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T18:18:21.910" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;this hapen after drive the truck for 10 to 20 minutes went stop star misfire at idle only 5 and 7 cyl. has spark and injector pulse if i race the rpm couple time the engine star run normal again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21672" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T20:41:28.837" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T20:41:28.837" Title="09 ford f-150 misfire cyl.5 and 7 only has spark and pulse only went is hot" Tags="|ford|ignition|misfire|f-150|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35237" CreationDate="2016-08-16T19:26:05.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A professional tow is clearly the most responsible option. Even if it requires serious arm-twisting. If the money's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes it isn't....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He could tow you—it's weird but doable for a vehicle with dead brakes to tow a vehicle with working brakes. Not safe, but safer. Pick a time with the least traffic/least possibility of kids jumping in front of you. 4am-ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21676" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:26:05.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35277" CreationDate="2016-08-16T19:27:25.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things going on to make that gasket no longer work.  One is that over time the gasket has deformed from its original shape so that it actually matches the void in the metal better.  The other change is that the material itself become more brittle and less pliable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of these two changes is that the level of pressure that the gasket presses against the surface is reduced, and as a result it is easier for the pressurized oil to push past the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is counter-intuitive that perfectly shaped gasket would leak while the one that is not as precise and must be squished into place holds better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:27:25.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35309" CreationDate="2016-08-16T10:47:01.583" Score="0" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've been searching for a 6v automotive LED bulbs (for a vintage vehicle) and note that many are specified as 6-36v, or even 6-85v input voltage. but then they get listed as 12v working voltage.... ??? what ??? so they won't work on 6v. these units typically have cooling fans and regulators in them. i tested one and it needed &gt;9v to start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there some deeper meaning to this 6-36v? I know the basics of LEDs being current driven with a forward voltage but i'm unsure if this voltage specification is meaningful or just spin?&#xA;thanks for any clarity you can offer&#xA;mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21709" OwnerDisplayName="user2968159" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T22:12:40.633" Title="automotive LEDS specified as 6v-36V required 9 or 12v... why?" Tags="|led|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35308" CreationDate="2016-08-16T12:51:19.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a deeper meaning behind the wide input voltage range detailed in the specifications you're working from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, all electrical components, especially integrated circuits, have some specific range of voltages they operate under. Although a professional electrical engineer would have no issues designing a stable power supply with very little fluctuations in voltage, it adds complexity to the final circuit and therefore added cost to the customer. Since power supply implementations are different for each specific circuit design, it's not uncommon for a semiconductor company to manufacture the same product with different supply voltage ranges in an effort to reach the greatest number of customers (the same idea applies to operating temperatures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many devices have both a working voltage and an absolute minimum supply voltage. The working voltage is the voltage required for normal operation whereas the absolute minimum is the minimum voltage needed for basic functionality of the device. This concept is most prevalent when working with microcontrollers - if you supply the IC with the absolute minimum voltage, the device still turns on and operates, but disables certain services (like analog-to-digital conversions) that require a higher voltage reference. Since the device you describe is more than just an LED, I wouldn't be suprised if 6V is the minimum required for the cooling fan or regulator, but not enough for the LED to actually be powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referencing your example specifically, automotive circuits and components often have their own superset of input voltage ranges and normal operating temperature conditions. That's because modern auto batteries are subject to load dump (upwards of 75V+) and cold-cranking (6V or less) conditions under heavy load, both of which alter the voltage of the battery significantly. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;url=http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snva681a/snva681a.pdf&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi-6cO3_MXOAhXH6SYKHextCoYQFggbMAA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNF4O6GvL7b89rtv5RQkcSFnFZ8emg&amp;amp;sig2=5BZ--0AcWbdKF21w9RhQVw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HERE&lt;/a&gt; is a great paper written by Texas Instruments that explains these conditions in detail as well as some circuit examples on how to approach circuit design in automotive applications. At the very least, it should shed some light on why it's important to have wide input operating voltages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, the component manufacturer has no indication on what their product will be used for, or from what source it will be supplied power. Therefore, in order to reach the greatest number of customers electrical components need to be able to tolerate fluctuations in supply voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21632" OwnerDisplayName="WebsterXC" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T13:00:39.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T22:47:55.833" Score="6" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got new tires and had free alignment check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy came back and said the passenger rear is way off.  Note that I did get a flat the previous day and rode with a spare for very minimal miles. To fix the camber, it would have been really expensive (300+), but he recommended not fixing that but said the toe was really off on the rear passenger and he recommended an alignment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had him do it, but the tech came out afterwards and said after he did the regular alignment, the camber reading was fine.  So, I'm wondering if the toe was really that bad as well.  Maybe their machine wasn't calibrated correctly?  Also, now that I'm researching alignments, is fixing tie settings a true alignment?  The rear passenger toe before shows -0.03.  Not really sure what this means, but it was outside the ok range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21679" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T15:54:24.097" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T15:54:24.097" Title="Did I need an alignment?" Tags="|alignment|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2018-01-27T14:50:01.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T23:40:47.000" Score="13" ViewCount="5124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my car used, and unfortunately I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed. I decided to open the timing belt cover today to take a look. The top of the belt seemed a bit shiny but I'm not really sure what's considered normal or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are photos I took of the belt, any opinions would be very appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MD39s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MD39s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OREpd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OREpd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8N9Qq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8N9Qq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ec4HF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ec4HF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhufN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhufN.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21681" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T00:16:02.913" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T12:27:57.290" Title="Timing Belt need replacing? Unknown mileage" Tags="|timing-belt|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-16T23:49:08.220" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no magic eight ball which can tell you how many miles are on a timing belt. This is my own opinion, but I'm sure it's shared by most: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you don't know the mileage of a timing belt on a car with an interference motor, &lt;strong&gt;change it&lt;/strong&gt;. You can never go wrong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you are showing in the picture looks like it's been around the block once or twice. I'd sure as heck change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T23:49:08.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:11:11.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echoing the advice you've already received, change it as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm particularly concerned by the position of the belt on the sprocket and what looks to me like a wear line to the left of the belt. I would be happier if the belt was tracking closer to the middle of the sprocket and the wear line suggests to me that the belt is either moving back and forth across the sprocket as it runs or it has changed its position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of those seem like good signs to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:11:11.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35280" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:38:16.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there are a number of reasons for noises when a wheel is in motion, but two of the most common are tires (from uneven wear) and worn hub bearings. Often when tires are the source of the noise, it will come from multiple wheels simultaneously, and often if the noise is coming from multiple wheels simultaneously it is indeed the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the simplest ways to diagnose noise from tire wear is a rotation, as the sound should migrate accordingly. Wheel bearing noise can be diagnosed by noting the effect of turning (and the subsequent weight transfer) on the intensity of the sound. On ramps and off ramps are perfect for testing via weight transfer. You can also directly check for play or noise in the bearing, but that requires removing the wheel and brake at a minimum, so I typically do that to confirm what I suspect from hearing the telltale &quot;wubbing&quot; sound. If the bearing has worn enough to have noticeable play, it needs to be replaced very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though many bearings are designed so the wheel will not actually fall off in the event of catastrophic bearing failure, a seized and/or floppy wheel is also incredibly dangerous. The result of a worn out wheel bearing short term is poor fuel economy and long term is a very dangerous and unpredictable loss of vehicle control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:38:16.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35280" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:55:05.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worn bearing on a hub will make an obnoxious noise that increases with vehicle speed. Usually, this comes from increased internal friction. Depending on the cause for the increased internal friction, the condition (and noise) could remain stable, or they could degrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the hubs looked at or inspect them yourself to make sure it isn't a wheel or tire problem. When you get sick and tired of hearing the noise, or if the noise gets worse, get them replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:55:05.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35323" CreationDate="2016-08-17T03:34:04.107" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;My A/C turns off and on at seemingly random times. When it is on it's cold. According to my mechanic, my car has been very well maintained and the engine is in great shape, but they mentioned the following possible issues with the A/C:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing Schrader valves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low coolant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the actual problem is, though, and I'm wondering how to start troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unrelated: The mechanic also said the motor mounts may need to be replaced but I'm not sure what to do about that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21683" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T08:39:00.757" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T22:28:20.197" Title="1995 Lincoln Continental A/C problems" Tags="|ac|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35316" CreationDate="2016-08-17T03:48:46.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repairing almost anything on an AC system requires the system to be refilled with coolant, and the procedure costs about $140 for most vehicles (this is completely different from topping up a system that is still sealed). This needs to be added to whatever the actual repair cost is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your motor mounts, they do tend to go bad with time and mileage. Is there any chance you can pop the hood and take pictures for us? Motor mounts and big honking things attached to your engine and the car. There's usually 4 of them, look in front, behind, left and right. Replacing these can be fairly substancial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCz6D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCz6D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s an example of one&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T03:48:46.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T03:53:50.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The belt looks okay, but @dlu is totally correct I'm not liking the track.  The first photo it almost looks like it's rubbing on the inside of the cam flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, you can count the cracks on the belt teeth.  If you bend the belt away from the teeth and see more that 3-5 cracks over a 1&quot; span, the belt needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a Conti or Gates kit that includes the waterpump as well. Money well spent. You can save money by ordering online... I don't think this is &lt;em&gt;emergency crisis&lt;/em&gt; mode, but as other posters mentioned the only timing belt you really know is the one you're installing right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This job is a really rewarding one for a DIY and not too complicated, as long as you take your time and mark everything carefully.  I use those paint pens in bright flourescent colors along with a pair of 2.50x drugstore cheaters for the best results.  (I was born when cams were driven by a chain, or something called a &quot;Jackson Drive&quot;... I'm old.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T03:53:50.120" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27552" CreationDate="2016-08-17T06:26:39.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compiling from the comments, it seems that the issue could be a firing order problem, and that your alignment (TDC) could be out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your manuals (or manuals online), or purchase a manual to gain this information and make sure everything follows the manual, we do not wish to have a blow out ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: This is my thoughts and what i would do in the situation, none of this is saying that you should do so, always use appropriate tools and protective equipment where needed!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15597" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T06:26:39.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T08:21:34.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others mentioned: Change it, the belt looks suspicious (especially the position and the side towards the engine) and it is much cheaper than a new engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the position of belt on the sprocket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For certain types of spring tensioners it can happen, during installing, that the spring will get stuck between tensioner and engine block, thereby causing a miss-alignment of the tensioner and consequently forcing the belt out of track.&#xA;For clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue marked part of the spring gets stuck under the red marked part of the tensioner.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p08Qo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p08Qo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T12:25:56.770" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T12:25:56.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35373" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:03:17.917" Score="3" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my 1993 Mk1 Golf Cabriolet (1.8lt, injected) has been having trouble starting. It takes a few attempts for the engine to catch and when it does it sounds like only a few cylinders are firing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I rev it a bit and alls good. Whilst driving and idling the engine feels fine - no missing and no change in power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feels like a fuel delivery issue, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know what could be causing this? Feels like it's getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2095" LastEditorUserId="2095" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T22:23:05.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:24:29.390" Title="Engine not firing on all cylinders on start" Tags="|starting|fuel-system|vw|golf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35316" CreationDate="2016-08-17T11:49:33.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I cannot speak for the intent of the mechanic, or the costs incurred (every vehicle is different) I can answer some points in your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Schrader Valves:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the schrader valves will require a system vacuum and recharge as if the schrader valves leak, the freon has escaped and has likely normalized with atmospheric air. This means that the system has become contaminated and will need to be flushed, vacuum drawn, and refilled. It is a very time consuming process, especially if other leaks are present, which can be found once a vacuum is drawn on the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Motor Mounts:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the motor mounts, It depends on the mileage of your vehicle. Some vehicles are prone to premature motor mount failure. If your vehicle leaks, or has not been maintained regularly, this can also contribute to mount failure. Replacing all of the motor mounts should not normally be necessary, however I've run into cases where literally every motor mount had to be replaced, and that in itself is not an easy feat. The motor must be supported, and some mounts may be in difficult portions of the engine bay and may not be easy to get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always go get a second opinion. Do not take one mechanic's word for it, especially if you feel or suspect he's giving you a run for your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T11:49:33.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32927" CreationDate="2016-08-17T12:22:13.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright! An 86 Comanche, XJ/MJ's are my specialty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you said it smells like exhaust, the sound at idle sounds like a 'pft, pft' sound and the sound while driving sounds like a ticking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds very much like an exhaust leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tracking down the leak:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I would check the manifold to block connection. These loosen up over time on these inline motors due to their reverse-flow design. Tightening these bolts back to spec will normally fix this issue unless the manifold is warped which is possible if it was not torqued to spec properly or has come lose for an extended period. With over 300,000 miles, you're definitely due to to check all the bolts on the Jeep to make sure they're torqued properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily check if it's the manifold to head connection by looking for sooty deposits around the manifold, or by holding a piece of tissue paper near the motor at the flange with it running. If it wiggles, you found your leak! (disclaimer: when the engine is cool of course). The mechanical fan is on the other side of the motor and shouldn't cause any breeze, but make sure you turn off the A/C or the electric fan will skew your results. If torquing it down properly doesn't fix it, replace the gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I would check the actual manifold. Because AMC/Jeep designed these motors to run particularly inherently lean, they run SUPER HOT which means that the metal in the headers tend to fatigue, weaken, and eventually fail and crack. You will usually be able to see failures at the collector, and rarely further up into the mounting flange on the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I would check all the other exhaust connections under the vehicle to make sure they're not damaged or leaking. If it sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, it's likely the manifold or manifold to downpipe. Otherwise, it could be where the cat bolts to the downpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clogged cat can also cause excess backpressure which will result in leaks and the aforementioned &quot;Pft&quot; noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like an exhaust leak. Check your connections, check the pipes for any rust, the collectors are notorious for rotting out because of how inherently hot the Inline motors have been designed to run for emissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16773" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T12:22:13.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T12:52:54.690" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the front driveshaft be removed, so the owner can still use the truck? will the transfer case leak fluid&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21690" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T12:52:54.690" Title="Front differential growling dodge dakota big horn 2010" Tags="|dodge|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T15:04:18.413" Score="1" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Japan imported Mazda Demio (has around 30,000km in mileage and is in a pretty good condition). From the very start, I noticed a small rattling / knocking sound coming from the front of the car. I am not sure if its from either tyres or just from the front of the car, under steering wheel or so. The sound that it makes (though its surely not the best way to describe it) is similar to this: 'thrrrrrr thrrrrrr thrrrrrr'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a big sound but it happens when I pass from rough surfaced roads - mostly where there are small bumps. The sound is more audible when the car is moving slowly and when the bump is not so big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like something is loose, and doesn't sound like a damaged part. It does not bother me too much but I thought I'd get some opinions on what it might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is under warranty from the dealer I've bought it from, so sooner rather than later Ill probably end up getting checked just the same, but your opinions or similar experiences with similar cars are greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21693" LastEditorUserId="21693" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T08:15:43.350" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T08:56:10.320" Title="Mazda Demio Rattling/Knocking sound" Tags="|noise|mazda|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35535" CreationDate="2016-08-17T15:25:10.323" Score="6" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;After replacing the rear brake lines on my 1965 Buick Wildcat (4-wheel drums), I took it in to have all four tires replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I dropped it off at the shop, the brakes were fine, but when I picked the car up afterward, the car now shakes when I brake.  It's a pulsing sensation at low speeds (30mph and below) but between 30 and 50 it's a very noticeable shudder and above 50 the car shakes violently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I got home, I discovered that the parking brake was depressed one &quot;click&quot; -- not enough to illuminate the idiot light and I didn't notice any drag while driving.  My suspicion is that the pedal got bumped by the tech.  I don't know whether that may have been enough to do something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, I called the shop and they said they didn't touch the brakes at all when they did the tires.  I took it back to them, they pulled the drums and said everything looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a footnote, when I took the car in, there were P205/70R15s on the front and P235/60R15s on the back (it's a long story).  These were replaced with P235/75R15s which was a good visual match for the H78-15 I had in the trunk.  I don't know whether the change in size could play a part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work was done at a chain tire-and-battery place so I know they don't work on these very often and may not know what to look at or for.  How should I go about identifying the root of the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some looking around last night and found that some of the weights on the inside of the wheels are smashed up against the drums:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZeJI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZeJI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left Front Wheel Weight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lug nuts &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to be tight and centered all the way around, but I'm wondering whether these weights are acting as shims and at least one of the wheels isn't actually seated properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18887" LastEditorUserId="18887" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T11:27:55.253" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T17:22:38.427" Title="Full-Size Buick shudders when braking after tire change" Tags="|brakes|buick|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:27:44.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change it! That belt has wandered from center as is visible by the wear pattern on the sprocket and it looks like the back edge against the head is showing signs of rubbing. This is most likely due to a worn water pump and/or idler/tensioner. Change them all too. You can get away with breakage on a non-zero clearance engine like most Toyota/Subaru's which will just stop running, but things like Honda's and Ford's it spells catastrophic death for the engine. There is almost never any warning that they are ready to snap.. Don't risk it.&#xA;-Rich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T16:27:44.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35251" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:36:56.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the dealership, with the old gasket I took out of the oil cooler, and they looked it up and gave me the same gasket I bought the first time. I asked one of the mechanics why the new gasket was so clearly larger than the old gasket and he said that it was just shrinkage. So I came home, completely removed the oil cooler from the car, cleaned it, and put the new gasket in place. While it seemed too large at first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kebvU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kebvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what I noticed was that once I pressed it in place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06DoI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06DoI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it hugs the outer edge of the crevice it sits in, while the old ( shrunk? ) seal was hugging the inner edge of the crevice.  From the side view you can see that it's sitting properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AVIbF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AVIbF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this was clearly my mistake.  I probably just didn't get the gasket snug into the crevice the first time, and when I went to tighten down the cooler just chopped part of the gasket off. Part number is KL01-14-702A for anyone who is interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T21:22:58.390" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T21:22:58.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:43:42.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try cost-benefit analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out the cost of replacing the belt now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out the cost of replacing the engine (or the car) after the belt snaps and the pistons hit the valves. Also include the wear and tear on your nerves if that happens at speed, and the non-negligible chance of it causing an accident. It's most likely to snap while you are accelerating hard, such as while overtaking (cue nightmares). Then there's the cost of having the immobile vehicle recovered to a garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guesstimate  the probablity of the latter event if you delay the cost of the former for too long. It's a fair assumption that if the belt had been replaced recently the vendor(s) would have used proof  to support a higher price for the car. So most probably it's approaching or outside its service life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anything except a very old car that is used for fairly few miles per annum and that you expect has only another year or two left in it, you'll conclude that in the absence of a service history, it's best to replace the timing belt now. Safety considerations may convince you even for a temporary car of little more than scrap value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I think there may be some low-compression engines where the pistons can't hit the valves, in which case it's far less traumatic when the belt snaps. So if money is very tight and if you can establish that your engine is definitely in this category, the balance may shift a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19215" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T16:43:42.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T17:21:43.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace it as soon as you can. A couple cars ago I was in a situation like yours. I opted not to replace it, and the timing belt let go. Completely trashed the engine and totaled the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trust me, shelling out for preventative-maintenance is much, much better than fixing something that's gone wrong. You should try to catch problems as early as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21345" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T17:21:43.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35343" CreationDate="2016-08-17T18:25:19.823" Score="2" ViewCount="17574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Renault Captur from 2016 with a petrol engine. I'm having a slight trouble when taking off. With the car stopped I shift into 1st gear and slowly release the clutch while at the same time slowly pressing the gas pedal. After this, I fully release my foot from the clutch and only use the gas pedal. This is where I'm having issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fully releasing the clutch, I am at about 2000 rpm and usually at a very slow speed like 13 km/h. I slowly give it more gas in order to gain more speed, (I've tried until 4500 rpm-ish), but the speed stays practically the same, maybe it reaches 17 km/h. This is driving me insane. Here I am in my car making my engine roar like some mad behemoth but my car won't go any faster and it's getting really frustrating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to go faster in first gear because when I'm stopped at a red light and I take off, the cars in front of me take off very fast, and I go very slowly, and I feel like I'm being a nuisance for the cars that are behind me. If I change to 2nd gear at about 2000 rpm when in 1st gear I still go slow, because the car isn't moving fast enough so that I can take full advantage of being in 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car has eco driving, and I have disabled it and tried again, but everything is still the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had this type of trouble before. Is my car faulty in any way? Or am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21701" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T04:24:29.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:46:44.103" Title="Why does my car have this strange behavior when in 1st gear?" Tags="|clutch|manual-transmission|renault|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-17T19:41:36.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume it hasn't been changed. I have never had a belt changed by a garage without a sticker somewhere on the car stating the mileage and the date (some manufacturers recommend changing after X years even if the mileage is low). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, the sticker may not be in the engine compartment. I once had one put on the edge of the driver's door, visible when the door is open - that's a better place than the engine compartment to keep it clean and legible for several years! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T19:41:36.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2016-08-17T20:39:23.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One piece designs necessitate a lighter material, such as aluminum, which requires a larger diameter shaft to achieve the same strength as the stock steel shafts. There are several issues with this approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A larger clearance is required to accommodate the shaft and its harmonics,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shaft is more prone damage (due to angle and material),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This shaft is NOT significantly cheaper to produce, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;critical speed limit&lt;/strong&gt; is vastly reduced — most likely below what might seem reasonable for mass market (say 90mph for a 5&quot; shaft diameter on an F150).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making this same shaft out of steel for a street application would be too heavy overall, and would overly stress bearing, seals, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There are some benefits to one-piece aluminum, if doing so as an upgrade: lower maintenance due to fewer moving parts, and lighter weight (~50-65%); however, these are not necessarily appreciated as OEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21705" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T20:39:23.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T21:19:07.680" Score="5" ViewCount="15242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two questions related to the torque converter and shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, is it possible to lock the torque converter on first gear if I press the gas pedal hard?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second, is shifting while the torque converter locked good for the car's transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21706" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T21:22:01.653" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T22:30:01.737" Title="Shifting with torque converter locked?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|torque-converter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T22:35:22.377" Score="6" ViewCount="6973" Body="&lt;p&gt;My battery was fully discharged (forgot to turn off headlights for a few hours).  The car wouldn't even unlock from the remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do after getting a jumpstart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T23:29:13.600" Title="battery fully discharged, got a jump-start, but what do I do now?" Tags="|battery|battery-drain|battery-charger|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35340" CreationDate="2016-08-17T22:35:22.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It is very important to charge back the battery as soon as possible.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13483/how-fast-does-the-alternator-charge-the-battery&quot;&gt;how fast does the alternator charge the battery?&lt;/a&gt;, it may take &lt;strong&gt;as much as 10 hours or more&lt;/strong&gt; for the battery to be re-charged if it was truly fully discharged (which might not necessarily have been the case in itself, due to the potential &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13478/negative-surface-charge&quot;&gt;Negative surface charge?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much cheaper to do that directly with the electricity than plan an unexpected road trip (and especially if it means extra delay of the battery being left in a partially-charged state, as well as potentially not getting that much alternator capacity left over if you're already using AC, lights, radio, and it's so hot outside that the engine cooling fans have to be running at full-speed, too).  As such, the best course of action, bar none, is to purchase something like a 6A or 8A charger, and let it charge the battery overnight for a couple of nights, right away from the first night the battery got discharged.  Note that the charger automatically charges the battery at 14.4V (2.4V per cell), but after it determines that it becomes fully charged, then it's supposed to float it at 13.5V or so (2.25V per cell), so, these charges are often designed to be left unattended and for an extended periods of time without ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Once fully recharged, if it's a maintenance-free flooded lead-acid battery, it's also very important to check the fluid level in the battery.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery has been in service for a couple of years already, this step is highly recommended, especially after a deep discharge.  If necessary, peel off the label from the top, revealing the cells.  As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13172/how-much-water-can-be-safely-added-to-a-battery/13279#13279&quot;&gt;how much water can be safely added to a battery?&lt;/a&gt;, use protective gloves and eye-protection, unscrew the cap, check fluid level with a flashlight -- it should definitely touch at least one side of the filler tube, or potentially two independent sides of the filler tube, forming an eye-like &lt;strong&gt;meniscus&lt;/strong&gt;.  (If it doesn't touch either side, make sure to fill in enough distilled water (use at most 10ml per try) to make sure at least one side of each filler tube has the meniscus present.) But make sure to not overfill, and make sure the battery is fully charged in the first place, prior to adding any water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T22:35:22.377" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-17T22:50:08.957" Score="13" ViewCount="2259" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the process for replacing the 12V battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I clean the contacts of the terminals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My OEM battery in 2008 Jetta SE 2.5L appears rather clean, including the terminals, but I recall that my older second-hand car had huge deposits on the negative terminal (presumably from an aftermarket battery replacement).  How do I make sure I replace my battery in such a way as to not cause any such huge deposits to appear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:38:27.690" Title="what is the process for replacing 12V car battery?" Tags="|battery|maintenance|replace|battery-cable|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35335" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:00:50.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe seems to match the cars specifications (I know you implied 4500 and 17kph in your post but try running a more controlled experiment and writing down the results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renault.com.au/vehicles/cars/captur/captur/features-specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.renault.com.au/vehicles/cars/captur/captur/features-specifications&lt;/a&gt; 1st gear at 1000 rpm will get you 6.5 kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that means, in 1st gear, you should be getting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13 kph @ 2000 rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17 kph @ 2615 rpm (you should hit peak torque just before this at 2500)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29.25 kph @ 4500 rpm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be close to what you are describing. Note also you hit peak torque at 2500 rpm just before 17kph in first so expect it to become more difficult to accelerate e.g. up hills once you pass that. So if that matches what you see I'd say there's no problem, just spend less time on 1st. Use it only to get started. Personally, although my car is not the same as yours, fwiw I usually start in 2nd, using 1st only for trickier situations e.g. uphill or in slow moving traffic. It's pretty rare for me to ever spend more than a couple seconds in first on my car, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you're going 17 kph @ 4500 rpm with the clutch all the way out, youd certainly want to have it looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T23:24:31.877" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T23:24:31.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35342" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:13:39.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a battery is as simple as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disconnecting the 2 battery terminals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing the old battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inserting the new battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reconnecting the 2 battery terminals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the &quot;contacts&quot; is something you do when it is needed. Healthy batteries usually do not make deposits outisude. Batteries of lesser quality tend to corrode more easily or more quickly, but most batteries, if old enough, tend to corrode their terminals at some points. Someone else suggested baking soda, what I personally use is a steel brush. You can use a generic steel brush (I call it my elephant toothbrush), parts stores also sell special steel brushes for battery terminals,&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRYiw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRYiw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;steel brushes for battery terminals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; where one end is a tiny &quot;male&quot; steel brush to clean the inside of the connector and the other end is a &quot;female&quot; steel brush for the electrode. This thing has served me well, I only ever use my elephant toothbrush when the deposits are excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T23:13:39.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35342" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:20:39.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the terminals with a small amount of baking soda (approx a tbsp and enough water to make a paste ) and a old toothbrush. I recommend  wearing gloves to protect your hands from the acid salt and lead from the terminal.  The acid deposits are normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assuming negative ground:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When installing the battery&lt;/strong&gt; connect the positive first. The car body is the ground (negative)side. Doing the positive first eliminates the risk of short circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When removing a battery&lt;/strong&gt; disconnect the negative first for the same reason&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T23:20:39.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35342" CreationDate="2016-08-17T23:34:14.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with @resident_heretic about the order of removing/installing the posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the negative first and reconnect last when changing out the battery. This prevents shorting the positive battery terminal to ground while swinging a wrench to tighten things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something which has not been talked about, in a more generic sense (so this is for any vehicle), is to ensure you have the codes for your radio if needed. If you don't have the codes for the radio and or navigation system (thinking Hondas here), you're going to be in sorry shape for trying to use them when you put the new battery in. This might entail a trip to the dealer and asking them for the codes if you cannot find them on/in the vehicle. I don't know if the VW's suffer this fate, so this is just something to think about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:38:27.690" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:38:27.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35342" CreationDate="2016-08-18T00:06:08.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major cause of terminal corrosion is moisture. Even a small amount of water getting into small gaps or spaces where the metal surfaces touch can lead to electrolysis, which will erode the metal. This in turn creates larger gaps, which allow more moisture to accumulate, causing the problem to grow worse over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common method for preventing this is to coat the terminals with grease. This accomplishes two things: First, it seals off the metal surface from the air, which prevents oxidation. Second, it fills small gaps where moisture could accumulate in the future, preventing the opportunity for future electrolytic corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grease must be resistant to heat, so it doesn't melt and flow away from the connection. Wheel bearing grease works nicely, or you can get dielectric grease or special products made for battery terminals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to grease the terminals before connecting them. By using a tool such as the one in tlhlngan's answer, you roughen the surface of the terminals, exposing fresh, unoxidized metal surfaces. The grease prevents oxidation by the air, and if you tighten the terminals appropriately, the metal surfaces will crush together giving good metal-to-metal contact. Any small gaps remaining are filled with grease, not air or water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is dissimilar metals contacting each other, which can cause &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;galvanic corrosion&lt;/a&gt; even without the presence of an outside electrical charge. Having electricity flowing through the connection exacerbates this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Posts and terminals themselves are typically made of lead alloys, so are not that dissimilar, but the cables are usually copper, and copper-lead connections will produce galvanic corrosion. Aftermarket terminals that are added to an existing cable to save time and money are particularly likely to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing you can do to prevent corrosion is keep the area dry. Be careful when adding liquids to your radiator, washer fluid, or the battery itself. Some terminals come with little rubber or plastic covers, these help protect from splashing. A battery located near the front of the car may get more rain exposure than one farther back. Avoid driving through deep puddles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to clean and wash the battery and terminals, allow them to dry thoroughly before reconnecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T00:06:08.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T02:16:36.273" Score="4" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the head gasket done because of overheating 2 years ago, now it seems the problem is back. When the car starts to overheat I will put in coolant but the next day if I do a long distance drive I will smell the coolant being burnt from the hip of the engine and I am thinking it is coming out of the reservoir. One time I stopped for gas and when I got out I saw a large amount of coolant under the car so I opened the hood and it looked like it came from the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21711" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T22:55:35.283" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T22:55:35.283" Title="Radiator fluid leaking from reservoir" Tags="|civic|cooling-system|leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T02:56:46.567" Score="1" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clutch pedal on my 1994 Nissan Frontier will only go down about one quarter of the entire throw. I can put the shifter in gear but its like I still have the clutch pushed in.  I can shift into any gear without touching the clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21712" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T05:53:23.937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T05:53:23.937" Title="Clutch pedal is sticking and will not go down all the way on a 1994 nissan frontier truck" Tags="|clutch|nissan|manual-transmission|frontier|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35339" CreationDate="2016-08-18T03:16:13.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The torque converter locks when the engine rpm (impeller/housing speed of converter) and the transmission input shaft (turbine speed of converter) are roughly equal -- thereby improving efficiency for cruising, but also mitigating any torque multiplaction effect of the torque converter.  With the TC locked, the engine is effectively directly coupled to the transmission input, and no longer uses a fluid drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is controlled by the transmission control module (TCM), and usually is only activatd in top gear, and at steady cruise (low throttle position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases (my '95 Bronco, I think), this can happen in 3rd and 4th gear.  In some cases (my '95 Bronco for certain), this can be defeated with a switch, and a light comes on (mislabeled &quot;OVERDRIVE&quot; in my opinion), which is useful when towing heavy loads and some converter &quot;slip&quot; is warranted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input from the accelerator decouples the TC friction clutch, and the transmission reverts to a fluid drive scenario with torque multiplication.  This also occurs while shifting (if any), as such a shift would be very harsh wihout the fluid damping effect of the TC.  So in most vehicles, a downshift to 3rd would uncouple the TC clutch.  I'm not aware of vehicles that lock up the TC clutch in lower gears, as this wouldn't make much sense.  Lifting the throttle usually commands the transmission into the highest gear (for fuel efficiency) unless your TCM has a &quot;sport&quot; mode or some such that holds it in gear longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T04:04:35.727" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T04:04:35.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35340" CreationDate="2016-08-18T03:54:00.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my battery discharge just when the warranty expired; I had been working on the car in the garage for a considerable period of time and was using the 12V outlet to power some tools (and the OBD port for my insurance company's metering device).  When I was done my work, the battery would no longer hold a charge, even after boosting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the the battery to the local auto parts store for a free 45-minute rapid-charge (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=starting-and-charging-guide-battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AutoZone&lt;/a&gt; is one such company that does this for free).  The charger will also run a diagnostic on the battery and determine if the battery is no longer usable, or if it can still operate once charged to capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery is still usable, your alternator will charge the battery after it starts the car, and you have nothing to worry about anymore.  If it is no longer usable, check to see if electrolyte and/or water can be added to the battery to boost its capacity.  If the battery isn't serviceable, you will likely need a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure someone has figured out how to service non-serviceable batteries, but I'll leave that up to you to determine if is worth your time and if it meets your risk tolerance level :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21713" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T03:54:00.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33100" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:24:55.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;G12 coolant is indeed a VW/Audi-specific coolant, and pink/red when in the jug.  The coolant is concentrate and needs to be mixed with 50% distilled water before filling the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcnpn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcnpn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VW/Audi Coolant Colors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually we're not perfect when flushing and refilling the cooling system, and forget about the water in the heater core lines, or in the water pump.  As a result the coolant becomes more diluted than the 50% ratio and the color fades to pink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your coolant is orange, then I would consider flushing the whole system and refilling; check to see how close you are to the lifetime/mileage of the coolant from your last serving.  In my 2000 VW Passat, the G12 coolant turned orange as it aged and reacted/collected deposits from the engine and cooling system.  You will often see sediment at the bottom of your coolant reservoir resulting from this.  For a DIY, check your local Jetta user forums for the model of your car.  The procedure generally involves draining the system, refilling and circulating with distilled water, draining again, then refilling with coolant (once drained water is clear and free of sediment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, VW/Audi now only sells G13 coolant, which is the non-toxic/bio-degradable upgrade to G12.  It is purple in color, and 100% backward-compatible and mixable with G12, and also has a longer lifespan.  I purchased a gallon container from the local dealer for about $20 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWHrN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWHrN.png&quot; alt=&quot;VW/Audi Coolant Compatibility&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21713" LastEditorUserId="21713" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T14:49:37.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T14:49:37.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:50:33.610" Score="5" ViewCount="2845" Body="&lt;p&gt;Included video is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iorvSoMjvaA&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iorvSoMjvaA&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for pausing to start is for the glow plugs (diesel van).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery is OK! I tested myself and at an auto parts store. No problems at all with the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description: When turning the key, I can hear a click from the engine bay (I believe this is the solenoid, but the starter motor either does not engage, or just barely turns the motor over).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an intermittent problem! It first occurred over a month ago. It can go weeks without having any problem, then it happens all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick I used to finally get it to start: I turned the key 90% to full, then released to 30% of turn, an turned back to 100%. This &quot;double-turn-without-release&quot; trick, whatever it does, seems to usually be successful in starting the car--I have no idea why, though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot to mention this: The problem seems to occur only on the first attempt to start the car for the day. After I've got it started and everything warmed up, starting it again has had a higher success rate. It is still intermittent, though, sometimes it still shows this problem when warm, but the likelihood appears to be much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second edit: Tested starting the motor with a voltmeter. The starter motor is getting 12volts on successful starts, but getting less than that when it is not starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19875" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T19:23:37.107" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T08:30:56.003" Title="2003 Kia Pregio Diesel Van: engine starter problem (video included)" Tags="|starter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35357" CreationDate="2016-08-18T06:55:18.213" Score="7" ViewCount="8081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a second hand 2014 Vauxhall/Opel Zafira Tourer 5 days ago. Last night I noticed that the clutch pedal wobbled to the left and right; there's even more movement when the clutch is pressed to the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is a &quot;feature&quot; of the car, or possibly some sort of safety issue that I need to deal with right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is still under manufacturers warranty and only has 25k miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input in to the matter would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thank you both for your answers. I got the smartphone out and had a look around the pedal, but I couldn't see anything obvious that I could tighten. &#xA;My wife took the car to the dealership today and they've ordered a new pedal box that they will fit on Thursday. (she's currently heavily pregnant and quite persuasive. I would have got fobbed off until next week!) &#xA;Thankfully the part and ~8 hours labour are covered under the warranty. The mechanic said that the car is safe to drive in the mean time. &#xA;Both answers were useful, but seeing as the actual solution was &quot;take it to someone who knows what they're looking at&quot;, I've given the &quot;correct&quot; answer to the first poster. &#xA;Thanks again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13494" LastEditorUserId="13494" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T19:26:03.080" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T19:26:03.080" Title="Wobbly clutch pedal" Tags="|clutch|opel|vauxhall|pedals|zafira|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35356" CreationDate="2016-08-18T09:39:26.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &quot;unhappy&quot; amount of movement in the pedal doesn't seem right, especially in a new car. If no one here can give you a definitive answer, and looking at the pedal mount and linkage under the dash isn't possible or doesn't tell you anything, I'd encourage you to go visit the dealer. They can inspect it and you can try some new cars and see if they have similar behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be normal, but it could also be a good catch of a developing problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T09:39:26.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19836" CreationDate="2016-08-18T11:12:50.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not see how you can rest your foot on the pedal without exerting any force at all on that pedal. What is the point? You might as well use the pedal properly and ONLY apply force to it when required. Resting your foot on the clutch pedal WILL adversely affect the operation of the clutch release bearing (throw-out bearing as our American cousins call it) by generating friction and subsequently heat, which will absolutely wear out those components prematurely.In extreme cases, the friction plate will slip causing heat, loss of drive (clutch slip) and again, premature failure. Leave the pedal alone unless you are changing gear, simple!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21719" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T11:12:50.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35311" CreationDate="2016-08-18T12:27:57.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm late to answer, but I'd like to present an alternative opinion to those opinions that I see already here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though their may be risk of damaging the motor if the belt fails (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interference engine&lt;/a&gt;), this could turn out to be a rather expensive belt change. If the engine is not an interference engine or has less than ~120K KM on it, then &lt;strong&gt;I'd not change the belt&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that I warn that this job looks like it could get expensive is because the belt looks fine, but the installation was poor. That belt should be in the middle of the gear, not the inside edge. Therefore &lt;em&gt;it has been changed&lt;/em&gt;, but by an inexperienced mechanic. Other installation issues, such as overtighting of bolts or damage to the front engine mount or water pump, might turn this job into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/333211/what-is-the-problem-that-gets-worse-after-you-try-to-solve-it/333440#333440&quot;&gt;quagmire&lt;/a&gt;. The belt replacement likely happened at 75K-100K, so I'd change it at ~150K. But not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:10.093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T12:27:57.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35361" CreationDate="2016-08-18T12:44:31.850" Score="1" ViewCount="23219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra and replaced both front rotors n brake pads not less than 6mo. Ago. My passenger side was making grinding noise so I took a look at my brakes cause it sounded like metal on metal. When I took my brakes off seen they were gone n my rotor looked worn yet on the drivers side both looked fine. Can you tell me what can cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21721" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T17:02:58.487" Title="What would cause wear on one side of brake pads n rotor that were replaced not 6mo. ago" Tags="|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35360" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:04:22.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this happen when the pads aren't aligned properly, sometimes from a missing shim or retaining spring. Basically the pad and rotor are in constant low grade contact and things wear really quickly as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T13:04:22.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35360" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:11:37.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you have a caliper that is stuck or simply not working or a bubble in the brake line/fluid. Bleed the brake line. If the fluid is brown, keep bleeding until it runs clear. If you see bubbles (or the fluid stops coming out for a few seconds) wait until you see all the normal brake fluid come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to add more brake fluid (and try not let the line run dry, or else you will have to keep bleeding the line until you get those bubbles out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: I usually push a 3/8&quot; clear vinyl tube over the bleeder screw so that I can better oberve the color of the fluid and see bubbles in the tubing as I bleed the brake line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one brake line has brown brake fluid it is getting over heated, probably due to a bad caliper. Bubbles may indicate over heating or a bad caliper as well but then again, maybe not. The brake line itself may be to blame, or there may be a small leak somewhere. Since brake fluid is corrosive to metal, look for any unusually rusty (nissans are notoriously rusty, so look for extra rusty) joints/unions in the brake line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20161" LastEditorUserId="20161" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T13:19:55.483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T13:19:55.483" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:20:31.380" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've to replace automatic gearbox on Focus CMAX 2.0 Petrol 2006. I just wanted to know does it also require re-programming the vehicle or any part of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21723" LastActivityDate="2023-12-12T09:03:50.480" Title="Focus CMAX 2.0 Petrol 2006 replacement autogearbox - does it require to recode the vehicle?" Tags="|automatic-transmission|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31470" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:33:30.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could possibly be your pulley causing the sound. Well I'm definitely no mechanic but have had to work on my cars more than I cared to. Your pulley is what drives your serpentene belt if you see one belt sometimes 2 n still be called a serpentine. Confusing anyways your belt goes around these pulleys which rotate pulling your belt. The sound could be the start of your pulley wearing out. Hope that answer was better than first n thank you for putn me on blast...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21721" LastEditorUserId="21721" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T23:28:05.963" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T23:28:05.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35356" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:37:14.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first step is figuring out where the wiggle is coming from. Stick your head or a camera under the dash and check the pedal assembly. If you don't have an Olympic gymnast-like ability to contort your body under the dash, a good trick with these new-age smart phones is to stick your camera under there, record a video with the flashlight, and wiggle the pedal until you can see where the wiggling ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the pedal is loose in it's mounting bracket, rather than just a loose pin where the pedal connects to the master cylinder fork, though it could still be something as simple as a loose bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be something you can fix yourself, but as user 'dlu' suggested, I think you should take the car to the dealer so the problem can be documented, just in case you encounter the same problem down the road. especially since you're still under warranty. If you can pinpoint the source of the wiggle and show them the video evidence it may may expedite the service too! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T20:20:10.137" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T20:20:10.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28313" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:46:06.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was also going to say it could be your solenoid going bad, or loose wire. My solenoid caused my vehicle to do same thing and had to be replaced which was pretty easy had 2 wires n was located on the inside of my firewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21721" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T13:46:06.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T13:56:27.207" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 20 000 km car that will break down soon, don't want to invest in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The antenna is broken and I just want to listen to some sweet tunes and pods from my phone, but the car doesn't have a aux-connection. I'm trying to find a really cheap radio that just does that. I have been looking at the iSimple IS31, it's an antenna adapter and the best opition i've come across so far, but a native radio would be much better, but all I can find are so fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if the radio will work with my car and where can I get a cheap one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:10:02.897" Title="How do I find a cheap car stereo with aux?" Tags="|ford|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-18T21:45:53.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:00:56.883" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently needed to replace the tube in the back tire on my Suzuki GS 450. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm getting a low whir sound when moving, even if I kill the engine and coast. As far as I can tell it is coming from directly under me. I'm thinking that it's likely just the chain being a bit too tight, but is there anything else I should look for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also needing to press the clutch a bit harder when starting to avoid lurching forward, if it is related. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1287" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:25:01.343" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:25:01.343" Title="Low whir when moving on my motorcycle" Tags="|motorcycle|noise|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35367" CreationDate="2016-08-18T14:25:06.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: From what I've read, the '05 Focus did have a CD changer option, which means &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00N9WKTUM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this module&lt;/a&gt; or something similar should plug directly into the back of your stereo. You'll have to find a desirable path to route it out from behind the dashboard, but that's a matter of personal preference. If you don't have a dedicated AUX button, You may have to program the radio to cycle to that option with the press of the CD or RADIO button. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/MP3-Cassette-Player-Adapters/b?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;node=13981611&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AUX tape deck adapters&lt;/a&gt; have much better sound quality than the radio transmitters unless you also buy a signal booster, making tape deck adapters a cheaper option as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of the sister models of your car happened to come with a CD changer, your stock radio probably has the same plug on the back. You'll have to search for your specific model but &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JHTAPCS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this is an example&lt;/a&gt; of the type of plug you may be able to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you can take the car to a car audio specialist (I've had good experiences with 'Car Toys' in the states, but am in no way affiliated with them). I'd tell them you're not interested in spending much money, and ask them if they have any old decks laying around, or any other cheap options before you throw in the towel and go the tape/radio adapter route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T15:10:02.897" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:10:02.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35321" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:24:29.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My money is on the cold start injector.  There is a fifth injector in the fuel system used only when starting the engine from cold.  This would be the very first thing I would check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:24:29.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:32:42.143" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2010 camry 2.5liter engine, there is a a weird noise that comes from under the hood, driver side. The engine starts nicely, however the tap sound is not heard unless the car is moved in the forward direction for about 30 seconds. And it only happens once, each time whenever I start the car the tap sound happens and goes unless the car is restarted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very un usual as I dont think its knocking as its a continues sound but its my unprofessional opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21728" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T17:14:57.167" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T17:14:57.167" Title="Engine Tap noise" Tags="|engine|noise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35350" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:40:32.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be something as simple as the rubber seal on the underside of the cap.  This would be the first thing I would check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, have a compression or leakdown test done to establish the health of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:40:32.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T16:30:24.507" Score="1" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to use household window/glass cleaners to clean the windshield? &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/22120/19474&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; answer for example recommends using household cleaners but doesn't mention any downsides. On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/15131/19474&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; post discusses the effect of using them on the paint not the glass itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19474" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T16:55:05.433" Title="Is it bad to use household window/glass cleaners to clean the windshield?" Tags="|cleaning|windshield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T16:47:57.833" Score="3" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn the key once (without starting the engine), these (attached) lights show. When I start the engine, they all go off. No problems with car, but should the EPC, battery and engine light show like this or is it a possible fault warning? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXDUr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXDUr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lights&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21729" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T19:48:02.833" Title="2012 Volkswagen Polo Match DSG - are these dash startup lights normal?" Tags="|vw|warning-light|polo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35376" CreationDate="2016-08-18T16:55:05.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.incrediblydetailed.com/car-window-cleaning-tips-perfect-glass-windows-mirrors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Don't use ammonia-based cleaners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will shorten the useful life of windshield wiper blades and rubber seals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They dry out rubber and plastic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can damage window tint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T16:55:05.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:52:16.787" Score="2" ViewCount="3766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i with a M/T. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can standard plugs be used in place of the (overpriced) platinum/iridium OEM's?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried platinum in two previous cars and they gave less mpg and wore out in barely 20k miles. Autolite &amp;amp; AC Delco both gave the longest life and high mpg.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21731" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:18:35.813" LastActivityDate="2022-07-08T13:55:24.010" Title="Can standard spark plugs be used instead of platinum/iridium?" Tags="|electrical|subaru|sparkplugs|forester|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T19:45:01.473" Score="2" ViewCount="2683" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both my radiator and condenser fans are whining, high pitch  and loud, presumably from the bearings although maybe something else is rubbing somewhere. They started around the same time, I think it was triggered by coolant leaking all over them (fixed) plus me squirting them down with a lot of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to replace the units right now. I'm just going to pull them apart and try to clean them up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what kind of love can I give these electric fans to get a little more life out of them before they burn themselves out? And what kind of lubricant should I slop around the bearings? 3-in-1? Some kind of grease? I don't want to do anything that will cause more damage in the long run. I am also thinking I'll clean off any rust or corrosion on shafts and such with a wire brush. What else can I do, any tips or tricks appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T20:43:01.423" Title="Squeeze some extra life out of radiator and condenser fans" Tags="|maintenance|noise|fan|bearing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35378" CreationDate="2016-08-18T19:48:02.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The reason that the light come on is to give you proof that the lights are working. If you are truly conscientious you look them over with great care to ensure the lights are all showing :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More seriously some of the lights are actually telling you something, for example the ABS and airbag lights are set on when the controller starts its self-check and then are turned off if the self-check completes successfully. If the light were to stay on it would let you know that the system required service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others are just logical. Low alternator output is one of the conditions that illuminates an annunciator. When the engine isn't running the alternator output is zero and the lights comes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T19:48:02.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35383" CreationDate="2016-08-18T20:43:54.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see that there is much you can do about the squeaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can crack open the electric motor housing, there isn't much to disassemble to get at the motor bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-1997-2001-Honda-Prelude-Radiator-Fan-Assembly-0050-/231878798252?fits=Year%3A2001%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3APrelude&amp;amp;hash=item35fd0dabac:g:jpIAAOSwr7ZW6Du7&amp;amp;vxp=mtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay says&lt;/a&gt; this is your radiator fan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yZ9w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yZ9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prelude fan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a nut that fastens the plastic fan blade (left-handed thread). Removing that will allow you to gain access to the motor itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that what you can do to lubricate the motor shaft will be quite limited though, since it is likely that the squeaky bearing will be inside the motor housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience (Chevrolet Lumina) spraying copious amounts of WD-40 did little to stifle the noise. There wasn't anything else to spray at the time. I ended up replacing the fan motor to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T20:51:07.763" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T20:51:07.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35383" CreationDate="2016-08-18T20:52:37.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not try to grease the bearings. Normally a bearing this size is sealed by either a rubber ring (designation suffix 2RS) or a steel sheet ring (designation suffix 2Z), so just slopping some grease on it wont solve the problem. Metal sheet covered bearings are protected against dust but not against moisture, rubber covered ones are protected against moisture but are more expensive and the maximum rpm are somewhat limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers love the steel covered ones because they are cheaper and the part fails earlier (but most of the time not early enough to be under guarantee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the totally unfounded suspicion that the fans contains each two metal sheet covered deep groove ball bearings in a standard size. I would just try to disassemble the fans, extract the bearings and replace them with some rubber covered quality bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T20:43:01.423" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T20:43:01.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T20:52:41.880" Score="7" ViewCount="22405" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engine now runs ok when started cold, but if the weather is very hot or it's started when warm it goes into limp mode, whereby the orange spanner symbol comes on and max acceleration is only 1/3 it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was caused by oil deposits by putting in 2 stroke oil by mistake, but this is looking less likely (see discussion below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed to empty a fuel can which I thought was petrol only, but after adding say 200ml to a full tank of fuel I realized it was a 20:1 2 stroke oil mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;EGR cleaner spray into the air inlet &amp;amp; cleaning EGR with brake cleaner, fine carbon layer no oil. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spark plugs had oil deposits but actual arc surface was ok, put new plugs in. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used a bottle of redex injector cleaner at recommended mix in 2 full tanks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECU codes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Range/Performance (Closed Valve)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P1122 Acceleration Pedals Position Sensor 2 Voltage Low&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P1550 ELectronic Throttle Limp Home, LImited Performance&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P1120 Acceleration Pedal Position Sensor 1-2 Correlation&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Voltage High&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;P1405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Sensor Circuit Low&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Year is 2001, Engine is 1.6L SFI (Z16SE)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing some of these might be red herrings or interconnected, which one(s) to target first? The guy who did the codes said the Limp mode was caused by the exhaust blowing by the flexible joint (which it does slightly) but it blew much worse in the past &amp;amp; didn't cause limp mode so I wasn't convinced by that particular theory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what to look at would be most appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21734" LastEditorUserId="21734" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T17:28:48.267" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T12:54:11.037" Title="Cause of limp mode in Vauxhall Astra which ECU code is relevant?" Tags="|engine|electronic-control-module|vauxhall|misfire|astra|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="733" CreationDate="2016-08-18T20:58:25.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the red battery light in the instrument panel is fed a voltage sense through a yellow wire that is part of the alternator connector. Seems a lot of aftermarket and remanufactured alternators fail to provide a charge sense signal (i.e., alternator output) and the result is the instrument cluster illuminating the warning. The regulator in the alt is responsible for this and a factory replacement is the only sure fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21738" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:20:56.673" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:20:56.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35387" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:09:55.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Essentially you have put 10 milliliters of oil in your gastank&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this before with more oil than that on accident into my truck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to fill the tank to the top and dilute it as much as possible.  This worked fine for me and I had no ill effects that I am aware of.  The truck passed emissions after that and I have had no maintenance issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still concerned you can always drain your fuel tank.  Many Vauxhall's have a drain plug in the fuel tank.  If yours does not you can always siphon out the majority of the gas and then fill it up with fresh fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have diluted the oil down to an acceptable level you should not have any more issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:09:55.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35380" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:17:42.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your car calls for iridium plugs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer wants you to put in iridium spark plugs.  Iridium plugs can last longer than non-iridium due to their metallurgical properties associated with electricity.  They will tend to take longer to oxidize and begin to break down than other metal types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would simply go with the manufacturer's recommendations regarding your spark plugs and will probably find that the mileage numbers will be closer to expectations than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:17:42.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35368" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:24:31.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perhaps you over-tightened your chain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check to see if there is slack in your chain.  You will want a centimeter to 1.5 centimeters of slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An over-tightened chain will lead to the exact sound you are describing.  It also is hard on your transmission secondary shaft as well as your sprockets and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit a large bump and your swingarm has excessive movement during this condition you can stretch your chain and force a replacement.  It will begin to 'hop' where part of the chain is stretched and part is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you adjust your chain, be sure your rear wheel is in the air so you can spin it in neutral and check various points to ensure you build your 1cm of slack into the tightest area of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:24:31.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35335" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:46:44.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I slowly give it more gas in order to gain more speed, (I've tried until 4500 rpm-ish), but the speed stays practically the same, maybe it reaches 17 km/h.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your foot is completely off the clutch pedal and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;road speed doesn't increase proportionately to RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably have a slipping clutch that needs to be replaced (or decontaminated or repaired). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your roadspeed is 17kph at 4500 RPM in first gear, this also suggests the clutch may be slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you'd hear this as a loud squealing noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:46:44.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35380" CreationDate="2016-08-18T21:59:50.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2015 Forester needs Iridium plugs, so you should use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, they'll last longer than Copper. On most cars, that's not really an issue. With a Forester, having a boxer engine, the plugs are on the sides of the engine. It's not known for mechanics to use a crowbar to move the engine to get the plugs in (or even to undo the engine mounts, which is what I do). You don't want to be changing plugs too regularly; plugs are NOT a trivial job on any Subaru, so use the recommended ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:59:50.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T22:42:57.207" Score="2" ViewCount="11278" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is a Corolla 2005 model, with an automatic transmission. I am just curious about how my car works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I increase my RPM when I am in 1st gear, to say about 3k (by aggressively pressing down on the gas pedal), when I let go of gas pedal, it drops to 2k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I do the same at 2.3k RPM, and I let go of the gas pedal, it also drops to around 2k. I assume in both scenarios I am changing gears from 1st to 2nd, but why is the RPM change so much more in the first scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21706" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T00:34:49.890" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T10:54:18.303" Title="Automatic Transmission RPM changes from 1st to 2nd gear" Tags="|automatic-transmission|shifting|automotive-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35398" CreationDate="2016-08-18T22:53:18.493" Score="5" ViewCount="3646" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the hardware shown below? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These clips or shims are found on the caliper bracket on disc brakes on every car I've replaced the brakes on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a correct name for this hardware? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqFq7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqFq7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10092" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T23:14:00.467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T06:38:59.443" Title="What is the purpose of this disc brake shim/clip?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35401" CreationDate="2016-08-18T23:05:15.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a fault with my alternator and I went to the workshop where they tested one alternator and it didn't work probably. That engine was shaking and sparking. But then they tried another one and it worked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have two problems: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the car is giving me a message saying that the battery is not charging, despite that the car is working fine! why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the indicator shows that the fuel consumption went from 8.9 to 12.5, is it possible that it happened because of the alternator?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I told him to check if the alternator gives the same voltage and so on, but he said no need as the car its the same!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also blew compressed air through the air filter. Can that be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is 1993 Saab 2003T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please any advice will be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21348" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T00:16:15.500" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T19:59:52.400" Title="Is it possible that fuel consumption increases after changing an alternator?" Tags="|electrical|alternator|fuel-consumption|air-filter|saab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35396" CreationDate="2016-08-18T23:13:14.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some call them 'anti-rattle clips or retention clips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They keep your pads within a certain tolerance of variance regarding the touch points on the disk.  As well, they prevent the pads from rattling as you drive down the road and the pucks within your calipers are retracted just a bit from your disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They apply a bit of spring tension on the pads at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T23:13:14.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17631" CreationDate="2016-08-18T23:56:52.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that Audis have more than a passing similarity to their VW relatives, there will be a coolant level sensor in the coolant reservoir &quot;ball.&quot; The sensor is a pair of probes that look to be made of stainless steel that come down into a small coolant dam in the tank. You can easily see if they are there by looking down from the top when the tank is open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are there it would be worth cleaning them with a bit of ScotchBrite or something similar. They sense the presence of coolant by detecting (or maybe even measuring) conductivity between the two probes. If they become contaminated they can fail to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the coolant level looks good, I'd start by cleaning them. It's quicker and less expensive than replacing them (which I think means replacing the coolant reservoir).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature glitches suggest a few things to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged wiring between the sensor and the gauge, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe air in the cooling system – I'm not sure exactly what to expect but if there was air trapped in the system and it caused the temperature sensor to loose contact with the coolant it seems that you could see the reading jump one way or the other. What I'm not sure about is if the pressure in the cooling system is high enough for the temperature to get all the way up to 120º C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A failing sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've swapped the sensor it seems that one of the first two is the most likely explanation. I suppose it would also be possible for air trapped in the cooling system to cause enough disruption in normal liquid levels that it might cause the coolant level sensor to give you false alarms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T00:03:19.247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:03:19.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35395" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:14:30.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like normal operation to me. As the car speeds up and you release the gas pedal, the transmission shifts to the correct gear. This may be 2nd or I may be 3rd or it may be whatever gear the transmission thinks it needs to be in for the engine power being applied and the speed of the vehicle. If you are going 35 MPH when you are doing either operation, it will drop the RPM down to the same level, because it's going into the same gear in both instances at the same speed. The control unit will decide where it needs to go, but remember, 2000 RPM is in the normal operating range for many vehicles, so this is approximately where it will settle when you let off the gas to allow it to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify something ... the drivetrain is made so if you are requiring the car to go quicker (pressing the accelerator pedal harder), the transmission will hold the gear until it reaches a fail safe shift point (a point at which is predetermined if you go over &quot;this point&quot; it will cause damage to your drivetrain -- this is on &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; stock production vehicles) or until you ease off the accelerator pedal, which tells the powertrain you no longer need to try and go quicker. Either way it will shift and bring the RPMs down, allowing for the best mix of fuel economy and need for the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:14:30.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35397" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:23:20.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today seems to be alternator warning light day… You might check some of the other alternator warning light questions as the alternator and its supporting circuitry only has a few variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a quick check of the alternator if you have access to a DMM (digital multi-meter, an analog one would work fine for this too). With the engine running, alternator output should be well above the battery voltage. Expect the battery to be about 12.6 volts if it is fully charged, anything less that 12 volts is very low. If the alternator is working you should see something around 13.5 to 14.2 volts. You may need to rev the engine up a bit to know for sure, if you watch the voltage as you increase engine speed you should see it increase (if it was low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel consumption is a bit harder to offer good advice on. But a few ideas come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you're taking the long view, instantaneous or short term fuel consumption isn't necessarily diagnostic. If it stays high, that is another mater.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fuel consumption will go up if the engine is asked to do more work. It is conceivable that the load could be coming from the alternator, but you're looking at an almost 50% increase and that seems kind of high for an alternator load.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Restricting the available air might also reduce fuel economy. If blowing out the filter wasn't a reflex (and give how hard it is to get to filters these days, that seems a bit unlikely) then whomever did it probably thought the filter was dirty. So there might be an air restriction. A quick and dirty (pun intended) test for this would be to remove the air filter and drive a short distance. If the filter was the problem the fuel consumption should go back towards what you expect to see. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; do much driving without the filter, just enough to see if you notice an immediate difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:23:20.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35387" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:49:33.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble seeing the &quot;oil event&quot; and the &quot;limp mode&quot; as being related. When you added the oil, it was – as @DucatiKiller pointed out – only about 10 ml. This went into about 48 liters of fuel. First, it would take a long time for that amount of oil to even run through the engine, so I think it would be highly unlikely that you'd notice a problem until you'd consumed most of the tank of fuel – if you were going to see a problem from the oil at all. Second, I don't think there are any sensors upstream of the engine that would be affected by the oil, and downstream this amount of oil pales in comparison to cars that are &quot;oil burners&quot; – the ones you see going down the highway with a cloud of smoke. That oil would be affecting downstream sensors even if it wasn't running through the combustion chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think the blame for the ECU putting the engine into limp mode lies elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:49:33.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T03:56:41.163" Score="3" ViewCount="7673" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2008 Jetta 2.5L SE came with the following OEM battery in North Carolina:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;e ENERTEC&#xA;EMC&#xA;1J0 915 105 AD&#xA;12V 61 Ah 330A DIN&#xA;540A EN/SAE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that some appear to come with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;VARTA&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as the OEM vendor, but mine's definitely &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ENERTEC&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, dealers in New Mexico and Texas that I've called in 2014/2015, told me that they only have batteries with a VW part number of &lt;code&gt;000 915 105 DE&lt;/code&gt;, which they claim is the correct part number for my car.  One of them claimed that the part number changed from &lt;code&gt;AD&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;DE&lt;/code&gt;, and noone could really explain the &lt;code&gt;000&lt;/code&gt; part in place of the &lt;code&gt;1J0&lt;/code&gt;.  They said that the manufacturer of the battery varies with a batch, and some batches were made by Interstate with a green cap, and some were made by Enertec with a Volkswagen logo and black caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between my &lt;code&gt;1J0 915 105 AD&lt;/code&gt; and the proposed replacement of &lt;code&gt;000 915 105 DE&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;code&gt;000 915 105 DE&lt;/code&gt;, should I try to find a batch by Interstate, Enertec, or another vendor altogether? :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've heard some of them not advising to change the battery yourself, because then the onboard computer will not charge the new battery correctly.  Is there any truth to that?  What's involved in changing the battery spec for the onboard computer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="2760" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T01:49:03.807" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T01:49:03.807" Title="why does the VW dealers in NA have a different battery than OEM?" Tags="|battery|vw|part-identification|parts|jetta|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T04:06:51.060" Score="1" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about replacing my 2005 Honda Pilot's stock stereo with a Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS stereo but I want to keep my 6 Cd changer. Is there a module that will plug into the harness coming out of the 6 CD changer and convert it into an Aux out that I can just plug into the back of my aftermarket stereo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17498" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T09:54:52.190" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T13:38:45.480" Title="6 Cd Changer to Aux Out in 2005 Honda Pilot" Tags="|honda|audio|electronics|pilot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35374" CreationDate="2016-08-19T04:58:25.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a guess with the limited info we have I would guess that the initial tapping is present just before oil pressure in the hydraulic valve lifters has built up enough the fully pressurise the lifter. Its normally nothing to worry about unless the tapping is becoming progressively worse,  or developing into a knock.  In which case further investigation is necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T04:58:25.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35355" CreationDate="2016-08-19T05:06:29.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could just be a poor connection.. Check the battery terminals are secure and making proper contact,  also check main battery connection terminals at the starter end too. You may just have a bad connection.  Also check the engine earth cable for a good contact between engine and body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastEditorUserId="17602" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T05:23:23.917" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T05:23:23.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35363" CreationDate="2016-08-19T05:56:00.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the transmission is not &quot;serialized&quot; to the Transmission Control Module (TCM).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, I'm guessing you have a Durashift or a [less likely]  Ford Powershift.  In the first case, Ford has a HUGE problem with these transmissions, much of which they tried to rememdy with software changes (TCM reflash).  In the sceond (Powershift) case, not as much - but this is a semi-automatic transmission.  Some clarification on exactly what transmission in in your 2006 CMAX and I can possibly provide a more accurate specific answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO...     The answer to your simple question I beleive is &quot;no&quot;.   But the answer to a bigger picture question is perhaps &quot;yes, although not required, you may want the new TCM software that may mitigate the problem that caused your transmission failure in the first place (?!)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T05:56:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35355" CreationDate="2016-08-19T06:21:31.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the starter core is sticking. Use a long metal stick (screwdriver, piece of tubing, etc) and hit the side of the starter with it multiple times &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; turning it on. Try and start it. If you notice a difference then you can go ahead and remove it and have it tested further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13641" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T06:21:31.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35403" CreationDate="2016-08-19T06:21:56.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I worked for BMW NA, I was the 'Merican engineer responsible for batteries, start, and charging systems on BMW vehicles stateside from about 1990-95.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some bean-counter thing that also changed &lt;em&gt;The Ultimate Driving Machine&lt;/em&gt; [cough] from &lt;strong&gt;Varta&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Deta-Douglas&lt;/strong&gt; on some vehicles.  The issue was local sourcing of batteries... and money and profit...  As well as the stevadore's ability to drive new vehicles off the boat at Port Jersey after a transatlantic journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enough glorydays.  To answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea, but I suspect color, branding, logos, and aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heck no.  A battery that fits and has at least as much CCA and Ah capacity as the OEM spec is fine.  Interstate is a phenomenal brand (Johnson Controls that also owns Varta, BTW), but there are others.  Varta is no slouch. Exide represents.  Do yourself a favor and don't pay for stickers and logos.  There are really very few battery manufacturers worldwide.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moosepucky!  I cannot believe that a '08 Jetta can smell the brand of battery.  Now, having worked for several Germanal companies over the years, I could be wrong.  Now.  But not in 2008.  The alternator charges the battery until a &lt;em&gt;voltage&lt;/em&gt; is achieved.  The capacity of the battery determines how many alternator joules it takes to achieve that charge.  That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery fits and has equal or better than OEM specs, you are golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T06:28:04.787" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T06:28:04.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35396" CreationDate="2016-08-19T06:38:59.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nah.  They provide a highly polished friction-free surface (that gets replaced with a pad change if you buy the premium kit) that allows free pad movement, good retraction (the only thing that does this is the square piston seal that relaxes and brings the pads out of direct contact with the rotor -- not a lot of force).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use quality brake grease on these surfaces, but these clips will always glide better than a cast-iron caliper slot that rusts.  Even if you clean them with a wire brush (I do) they will still rust more than these inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T06:38:59.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T08:28:13.407" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a mazda 323 ZM/ZL engen,i found oil in the radiator after changing the head gasket.it once over heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21746" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T16:39:28.697" Title="What may be the cause of oil in radiator" Tags="|mazda-323f|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35411" CreationDate="2016-08-19T09:07:30.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few things off the top of my head. The first would be a bad head gasket.  Since your engine overheated it's possible the head was warped which is preventing the gasket from sealing properly. There could be a crack in the head between the water and oil passages and also there could be a problem with the oil cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T16:39:28.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T16:39:28.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35403" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:08:03.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the focus of this question is an understanding of Volkswagen part numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Volkswagen part numbering scheme is fairly straight forward to understand once you know more about it.  Essentially all part numbers are in a fixed format and once you know the system, you will be able to work out which parts are interchangeable.  The format is as follows;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NNN NNN NNN LLL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(N = number, L = letter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first the blocks of three numbers are always present, the last three letters are optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of the first block signifies the vehicle type with the second two numbers, combined with the first identify the specific model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, 111 is a Type 1 (passenger car) model 11 (Standard Beetle).  190 signifies an early Mk2 Golf (or Jetta), 1J0 actually refers to a Mk4 Golf platform vehicle (i.e. Golf, Jetta, Bora, etc...).  1K0 is Mk5 and 1K5 is Mk6 (as the Mk6 acutally used a revised Mk5 platform, hence the major model letter being the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number of the second group of numbers relates to the main part category and the second two, the sub-category.  The main parts categories are as follows;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1,Engine&#xA;2, Fuel Exhaust and Heating System&#xA;3, Transmission&#xA;4, Front End&#xA;5, Rear Axle&#xA;6, Wheels and Brakes&#xA;7, Bumpers Levers Pedals&#xA;8, Body&#xA;9, Electrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final group of three numbers is the component code.  The final digit of this number group is, for parts which fit a specific side of the car, always an even number when it's fitted to the right side of the vehicle and an odd number for the left hand side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optional letters following the part (upto a maximum of three) signify variations and updates.  These always run alphabetically.  These are for when there is a revision to a part or a part is superseded.  A part with the same numbers but different letters will typically be interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets take a look at the specifics of what you've asked;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1J0 915 105 AD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1J0 = Mk4 Golf platform.  This does not mean that this is the ONLY vehicle this parts fits, just that this was the FIRST vehicle in which this part was used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;915 = 9 = Electrical group.  I don't have a specific list of sub-groups but I would assume 15 relates to the battery and charging system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105 = The specific battery specification (the fact 5 is odd irrelevant as there is only one battery on the car, however the battery in a Mk4 Golf is fitted on the left hand side of the car, when viewed from sitting in the drivers seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AD = revision code, the original part number will have been something like 1J0 915 105 which will have been replaced with 105 A then eventually 105 AD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;000 915 105 DE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;000 = No vehicle code, generic part (i.e. fits any vehicle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;915 = electric group, presumably battery and charging system sub-group&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105 = the specific battery specification&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DE = revision code, DE alphabetically supersedes AD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your second question, I'd personally go with whatever brand I'm comfortable fitting based on the best price with a reasonable warranty period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your final question, I am aware that some of the Mk6 platform (1K5) cars do need their batteries coded in, this is usually restricted to the Bluemotion models as these have a sophisticated charging system which supports regenerative braking via an &quot;intelligent&quot; alternator.  I would doubt that your car would need to be coded in and I've seen many examples of Mk5 (and some Mk6) platform owners who've replaced their battery without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T10:08:03.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T11:08:37.617" Score="2" ViewCount="8145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about the environmental/legal issues.  I'm not too worried about the cel being on all the time.  Do I need to do anything to protect my engine at this point?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21748" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T13:25:47.357" Title="I just removed ALL of the catalytic converters on my 5.7l Toyota Tundra. Now What?" Tags="|catalytic-converter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-08-21T21:04:28.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35403" CreationDate="2016-08-19T11:32:52.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a real answer, just some information regarding that part about why you should not change the battery:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cars with start/stop system the battery gets highly stressed. So the ecu tries to simulate/calculate the current battery charge/capacity. Should the battery be &quot;unfit&quot; the ecu tries to preserve battery charge by disabling the start/stop system. For this reason the ecu needs to know the current battery characteristics and expects to get the data reprogrammed when a battery change happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 13&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://aa-boschap-de.resource.bosch.com/media/en/commonly_used_media/common_media/ap_common/parts/de_6/engine_systems__auto_parts_1/starters_alternators__engine_systems_1/start_stopp_kompetenz.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bosch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T11:32:52.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18377" CreationDate="2016-08-19T12:28:21.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right stuff is very dense silicone and doesnt flow well. But probably is the most common go to.  a type i didnt see in you list , flowable silicone very thin fluid like silicone comes clear and is marketed to seal any gaps in winshield seals. Ive used it to seal roof repairs on some campers. Depending on the material. But i guess it works when used. No comebacks... The secret to a long served no leak gasket maker seal is surface preparation.  Acetone, denatured alcohol or the stuff in your medicine cabinet will even work or a wax and grease remover all of witch wipe on wet then using another rag wipe off wet. Meaniing dont let it dry before its wiped over with a clean rag. If nothing else soap and water rinse well and a degreaser like windex that wont residue . Also there are 2 more common anaerobic gasket sealers. One is flexible the other more rigid and used widley for metal flanges anaerobic sealers have a reactive property to metal which helps the curing process in a no air environment and they are resistant to solvents and just about everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T12:28:21.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35414" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:25:47.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not worried about the check engine light (which will more than likely turn on since the 02 sensor will be receiving an excess amount of exhaust reaching it now) or environmental considerations, then removing the cat won't cause any harm to your engine. Some people even believe that driving without a catalytic converter allows the engine to breathe better and utilize more of its horsepower. Be warned though, there are typically laws in place that say a car must have a catalytic converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T13:25:47.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27258" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:52:44.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tested this out accidentally while doing an axle nut. 150 ft-lbs will break a 3/8&quot; drive usually and about 300 ft-lbs will break a 1/2&quot; drive. These are on regular breaker bars that are partially hollow and have the little ball in the space of the head to hold the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A SOLID 1/2&quot; heat treated impact rated drive anvil will go up to about 1200 ft-lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21751" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T13:52:44.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T14:24:31.547" Score="0" ViewCount="2224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a 2011 VW Golf BlueMotion that's done about 55K now (and I'm getting about 66mpg at a steady 55mph).  I'm very tempted to go for a TerraClean as opposed to the CarbonClean simply because my local garage offers the service.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before I go ahead, does anyone have any thoughts about the two? ie &quot;Oh no, forget TerraClean, CarbonClean wins handsdown!&quot; or &quot;Nooooo, don't waste your monies on these two&quot; and if so why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21724" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:57:11.373" Title="THoughts on TerraClean vs CarbonClean?" Tags="|engine|vw|diesel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-19T18:26:14.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T14:42:03.767" Score="3" ViewCount="9003" Body="&lt;p&gt;99 Saturn SC2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I jumped my car the AC hasn't been working. When I press the AC button the green light will turn on but I don't notice any additional drag on the system like I normally would. I also notice that when I press the recirculate button the air doesn't become more powerful like it used to. Essentially nothing happens at all when I press these buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T18:45:16.510" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T12:46:59.873" Title="Why isn't my ac working after I jumped the car?" Tags="|electrical|ac|troubleshooting|saturn|sc2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35419" CreationDate="2016-08-19T14:57:11.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question will probably be flagged as opinion-based and closed, but I think the main difference between Terraclean and carbon clean is that the former uses a liquid cleaner that is shot through the fuel system while the latter utilizes hydrogen gas through the intake to attempt the cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TerraClean is a little more invasive but said to be more thorough in its cleaning capabilities. Carbon clean doesn't touch the fuel system so it doesn't clean quite as much as the TerraClean system does. I've never heard anything bad about TerraClean, but that doesn't mean that there aren't bad things being said about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research it a little more, but TerraClean seems to be a more thorough means of cleaning the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:57:11.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35424" CreationDate="2016-08-19T16:23:39.830" Score="2" ViewCount="13228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a dealer shop because the engine has been shaking badly for several months. I don't know much about a car so I wonder if they diagnosed it honestly or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This note is what I got from the engineer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ECM stores misfire faults&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are intake air system leak faults&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can watch timing value blocks and the timing is jumping all over the place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upper timing chain is stretched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vacuum pump is leaking heavily, it will have to come off to do timing chains, so this is a good time to replace it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water pump is also leaking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They quoted me prices for the work they are recommending:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace timing chain ($2000)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace catalyst ($1700).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot afford it but are the timing chain and catalyst the reason to make engine shaking?&#xA;How to minimize the cost to fix the engine shaking problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21752" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T18:40:49.853" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:53:11.167" Title="Volkswagen Jetta 2005 2.5L timing chain replacement?" Tags="|vw|jetta|timing-chain|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33680" CreationDate="2016-08-19T18:01:39.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;90% of a good paint job is in the body work. Unless the body work is done flawlessly you will see every ding. Just about anyone a can paint a car it's the body work that counts. I would go with a white color paint, it hides the more. The paint should last a few years. You maybe be better off doing the body work yourself (flawlessly) and then getting a paint job with Maaco for the same price of all those paint cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21755" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:01:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35422" CreationDate="2016-08-19T18:21:00.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you pulled codes from the ECM? Apparently the codes p1340/17748 are associated with timing chain problems. That might help you verify the diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing chain failures are rarer than belt failures, but they are just as catastrophic. A timing chain failure can cause enough damage to effectively total the car. You definitely want to attend to this, and it is logical to replace the water and vacuum pumps while you are there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine shaking is due to something being out of balance, it seems possible that the timing could be far enough off to unbalance the power production and cause the shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are inclined to learn about cars, and have the time to do some work on your car, you might consider doing the chain yourself. It's not a trivial project, according to this post, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7256946-DIY-2-5l-Timing-Chain-Replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DIY: 2.5l Timing Chain Replacement&lt;/a&gt;, from VW Vortex the VW estimating manual suggests about 14 hours for the task and the timing chain parts (in 2011) ran to about $400 and specialized tools costing $200 were also needed. The author of the post said it took him about a week and half to do the work. From that perspective the estimate from VW doesn't sound too bad. Keep in mind that projects like this (either at a mechanic's workshop or DIY) tend to grow. There will be accessories and seals that make sense to change and you may find that you want to do work on the clutch or renew engine mounts… Be sure to get a good picture of the scope of work that anyone bidding on the project is including in their estimate and also ask about what other items might make sense to replace or inspect at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some likely candidates would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil seals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serpentine belt and tensioners/tensioners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch if you have a manual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will also be some fluids (oil, antifreeze).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catalyst is a whole other question, I don't see it as being related to the shaking problem. An option with the catalyst might be to &quot;delete&quot; it depending on local regulations and how the ECM works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T18:40:14.257" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:40:14.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35422" CreationDate="2016-08-19T18:53:11.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways that you can reduce the cost of maintenance is to get somebody else to pay for it…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, take a bit of time to look for recalls or extended warranties that relate to your problem. These are often not well advertised, so spend a bit of time with the Google and see what you can learn. It does appear that there may be a recall related to your car – &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5138674-MK5-2-5-Timing-Chain-Recall-Class-action-Suit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MK5 2.5 Timing Chain Recall / Class action Suit?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever it might be worth, I have a VW Jetta Wagon with rust perforation. VW's warranty covers rust damage for, about, 12 years. When I took the car in to have it evaluated for repair I had to explain the warranty to the dealer…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, good mechanics, especially independent ones, are often on top of the warranty and recall situation of the cars that they work on. So if you find one who talks to you about warranty/recall issues (and thus probably gives away some work) consider it a good sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T18:53:11.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T21:37:53.000" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for an older Infiniti G35/G37 ('07-'09), and most of the time, besides mileage and owners, I ask if the car maintenance has been done in an authorized Infiniti dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've been thinking, are there any objective differences to having a car serviced at the Infiniti dealership rather than by a good independent mechanic? Or is that something I shouldn't even bother asking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21533" LastEditorUserId="21533" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T22:22:07.160" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T02:02:12.083" Title="Any benefit in doing regular maintenance in authorized Infiniti dealer?" Tags="|maintenance|nissan|scheduled-maintenance|infiniti|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35427" CreationDate="2016-08-19T21:47:29.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best you can do is ask for maintenance records. If they don't have that, then there's really no need to even ask. You'll have to ask them if the regular maintenance is done and take them at their word. Really, the only thing taking it to the dealer will get you is higher bills upon exit. As long as the vehicle is taken to a good shop for the maintenance, you don't gain anything by going to dealer (in most cases) ... especially not for routine maintenance. I mean, you can ask the seller, but realistically it doesn't mean much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Don't be surprised if this question gets closed as it is opinion bait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T21:47:29.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3822" CreationDate="2016-08-19T22:08:11.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the chain of events went something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overload or short caused a fuse to blow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The root problem wasn't addressed and after replacing the fuse, it blew again, and again…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somebody got tired of replacing fuses and &quot;upgraded&quot; to a larger fuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The larger fuse &quot;solved&quot; the problem (and helped to diagnose it as an overload, rather than a short – or at least not a &quot;hard&quot; short to ground).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over time the wires overheated enough that the insulation started to melt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds like the problem still exists as fuses are still blowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticing that the fuse is the wrong size and going back to they correct fuse will stop the overheating – and will make the problem of blowing the fuse worse. If you are lucky the insulation has been damaged, but not so badly that there are new shorts in the damaged stretch of the harness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you identify the oversized fuses, look it up in the owner's manual or service manual to see what devices the circuit(s) serve. That will get you started on sorting out the root cause of the fuses blowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T22:08:11.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T22:32:23.607" Score="2" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;additionally, had oil changed at dealer two weeks ago, they installed a defective oil plug gasket/washer. caused the plug to spin and leak like it was stripped. but they said it was not stripped, it was the washer had bent. they fixed it and cleaned up the undercarriage. thankfully did not drive it without oil. the key/starter issue happened after the oil change. It's still under warranty. After the oil change problem don't want to go back to this dealer; another dealer is miles and miles further away. what could be the cause of the key not turning the car ignition on first try. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21758" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T23:20:52.567" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T23:20:52.567" Title="2015 Honda Fit LX, 20k miles, key will turn but engine will not always start on first try. Why?" Tags="|honda|fit|ignition-switch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35427" CreationDate="2016-08-19T23:01:20.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only benefit to having regular maintenance done at an authorized dealership is that some manufacturers sometimes have &quot;secret recalls&quot;, where an issue has been discovered and rather than going through a public recall that will tarnish the manufacturer's image, manufacturers sometimes issue the recall internally and only to the dealership network, nobody outside knows about it, and the recall gets addressed on your vehicle the next time it comes in for an oil change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T23:01:20.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35427" CreationDate="2016-08-20T02:02:12.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will add that the practical remedies for some issues can only be found at authorised dealerships because they will have access to OEM tools and instructions, especially for newer models where the aftermarket scene hasn't had the chance to catch up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of this include service light resets,  airbag light resets and software to activate the ABS pump (useful for brake fluid flushing). Of course, the specific &lt;em&gt;visit-the-dealer&lt;/em&gt; examples vary across makes and models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say that non-dealership alternatives don't exist; necessity is the mother of invention after all. But there are instances where it doesn't make practical or economic sense to pursue endeavors &lt;em&gt;sans&lt;/em&gt; dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T02:02:12.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35420" CreationDate="2016-08-20T08:23:58.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one box near the floor, passenger side, and one under the hood. AC should be in there somewhere but could be another (e.g. maybe a fan fuse, although I suspect the compressor since you're not noticing engine load). There's also an AC relay under the dash, if no fuses are blown, check / swap out that relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you didn't knock any wires loose too, esp. since the car is so old, a fragile connection may have come loose or snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always the possibility that another issue with the AC just popped up coincidentally but look for the easy electrical stuff first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T08:23:58.317" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-08-20T23:47:40.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T10:39:52.883" Score="4" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Kia Rio's brake pads made it to the indicator. Upon checking the pads it seemed that the pad situated against the piston is much more worn than the opposing pad. I removed the brake pads and cleaned the area to try and stop any possible sticking of the pads, but it had no effect. When turning the wheel you can clearly hear the pad touching the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure how the auto-adjusting hand brake piston assembly works, so I am asking, what could be the possible cause of the sticking brake pad? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21765" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T22:08:34.000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T13:09:24.960" Title="Sticking brake pad on 2012 Kia Rio 1.4L" Tags="|kia|brake-pad|rio|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T13:31:37.767" Score="2" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Skoda Octavia Mk2 2008 model, 1.9TDI Diesel, Manual. (Here in India its known as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Skoda Laura&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; type 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I had this problem of my clutch slipping so I replaced the Flywheel+Clutch plate+pressure plate(Clutch Assembly) of SACHS.&#xA;After that&#xA;1. I got my EGR Value cleaned(by removing the throttle body and cleaning it with carburetor spray and some liquid I am not sure what they used but now it's like new and shiny.&#xA;2. Removed the MAF sensor and got it cleaned with some spray as little dust was accumulated in it(carburetor spray i believe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My pickup has significantly increased like a new car. However, I have noticed the TURBO is not kicking in as it used to around 1500-2000 RPMs. I have to keep on accelerating for the speed to go up (above 8 l/100km)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a VAG409.1 OBD2 II Interface USB Diagnostic Cable Auto Car Scanner for Audi/VW installed VAG-COM Release 409-1 and was successfully able to do an AUTO-SCAN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the scan results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[QUOTE]&#xA;VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chassis Type: 1Z - Skoda Octavia II&#xA;Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,19,25,37,3D,42,44,46,52,55,56,62,69,72,76,77,7D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Address 01: Engine&#xA;Controller: 03G 906 016 DJ&#xA;Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000SG 6250&#xA;Coding: 0050071&#xA;Shop #: WSC 73430&#xA;8 Faults Found:&#xA;18000 - Altitude Sensor / Boost Pressure Sensor: Implausible Correlation&#xA;P1592 - 000 - - - Intermittent&#xA;16497 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs&#xA;P0113 - 000 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent&#xA;16622 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs&#xA;P0238 - 000 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent&#xA;18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller&#xA;P1649 - 000 - -&#xA;18617 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs&#xA;P2185 - 000 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent&#xA;16567 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs&#xA;P0183 - 000 - Please Register/Activate&#xA;16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too High&#xA;P0118 - 000 - -&#xA;16486 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs&#xA;P0102 - 000 - Please Register/Activate&#xA;Readiness: N/A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping Address 15-Airbags&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;[/QUOTE]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The version of VAG-COM is asking me to register/activate so I will post below the Error code and Fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P1592&lt;/strong&gt; Altitude Sensor / Boost Pressure Sensor: Implausible Correlation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0113&lt;/strong&gt; Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor -high input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0238&lt;/strong&gt; Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High Input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P2185&lt;/strong&gt; Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0183&lt;/strong&gt; Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0118&lt;/strong&gt; Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor -high input &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P0102&lt;/strong&gt; Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though my pick up is very good since the clutch is new I am not enjoying the ride as no Boost in Turbo, have to REV more to match the speed every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to change the sensors or any cleaning or refitting/reconnecting the sensors might help? Also what possible damages I have to suffer if I continue riding with the errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in Advance for all possible solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21767" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T13:31:37.767" Title="Skoda fault codes / Low Turbo boost" Tags="|skoda|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35404" CreationDate="2016-08-20T13:38:45.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to keep my 6 Cd changer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any particular reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pioneer system you want includes USB inputs and is fully compatible with anything in the Apple lineup and a selection of Android devices. iPods start at $150, have vastly more capacity and go in your shirt pocket instead of the trunk. If you already have an iPhone you are all set. You might even get phone handsfree support with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21768" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T13:38:45.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T14:35:39.403" Score="3" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive an Opel Corsa, and today I discovered a button under the left storage compartment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PRiEO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PRiEO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The button is on the top edge of the storage compartment, and isn't normally seen. I checked the owner's manual and didn't see any reference to it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Naturally, I switched it on and off, but it didn't seem to change anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a PIN keyboard installed in by car right above the button, but I don't think they're related (the button seems native to the car, and the PIN keyboard is an add-on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this button?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21770" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T01:48:59.290" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T01:48:59.290" Title="What is the function of this little red button?" Tags="|part-identification|opel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T15:53:08.893" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 1998 Altima needed a new alternator. Everything is fine, except overnight the new battery gets drawn down to 8 volts and the car will not start without a jump. For some reason when we test the alternator with the car off the alternator is actually drawing .4 volts. How can an alternator be drawing current when the car is off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21771" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T20:10:07.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T20:10:07.990" Title="1998 Nissan Altima Slowly Discharging Battery with New Alternator" Tags="|electrical|nissan|alternator|altima|battery-drain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35442" CreationDate="2016-08-20T18:44:23.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome, Mike.  I hope you kept your receipt as you likely have at least one defective diode in your new alternator.  If you replace it and experience the same problem, you will want to check the wiring and connections between the positive battery terminal and the alternator BAT terminal to make sure it's not causing the diode(s) to fail.  Or, if you prefer, you can check that before changing the alternator out, but that alternator will need swapped.  Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T18:44:23.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-20T23:56:15.000" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;i tested the fans , they work ok, 50 amp fuse is ok and tested for power to it. ok,  digital display is showing temperature as it rises, hit 220 and the fans do not come on....is there a relay somewhere I am missing, or a separate sending unit. other than the one next to thermostat? 4.9 engine. with 93,000 miles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21779" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T00:52:15.980" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T00:52:15.980" Title="coolant fans on 93 cadillac seville are not working" Tags="|cooling-system|fan|cadillac|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T01:08:09.090" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;code&gt;1J0 915 105 AD&lt;/code&gt; OEM battery from a 2008 Jetta 2.5L SE is noted as having the capacity of &lt;code&gt;61 Ah&lt;/code&gt;, the only marking on the battery are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;e ENERTEC&#xA;EMC&#xA;1J0 915 105 AD&#xA;12V 61 Ah 330A DIN&#xA;540A EN/SAE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I go to InterstateBatteries.com, which is claimed to be the number 1 retailer of aftermarket batteries in the United States, and search jetta, then see nothing, yet presented with the option to narrow down to Automotive, 2008, Volkswagen, Jetta, L5/2.5L, - (have no idea what the &quot;-&quot; option is for, the other option was &quot;54&quot;) -- seven pageloads later after typing &quot;jetta&quot; -- none of the batteries presented are specified to have any sort of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A⋅h&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ratings, yet they all appear to come with a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ReverseCapacity-25&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does &lt;em&gt;A⋅h&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;ReverseCapacity-25&lt;/em&gt; compare?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;61 A⋅h&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; at all equivalent to 61 A&amp;sdot;h &amp;div; 25A = 2.44 h, which is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;146.4&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; minutes of reserve capacity, or is there some other trick?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, all of these Interstate batteries appear to have a higher CCA ratings than OEM's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;540A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, yet all of them at the same time had at most 130 rating for ReserveCapacity-25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does Interstate only have batteries with 95, 115 and 130 RC for my car, yet they all have between 610 and 790 CCA ratings (OEM's 540A)?  Doesn't 95 RC mean only 95/60 * 25 = 39.58 Ah?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T03:13:06.130" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T21:04:54.030" Title="What's Reserve Capacity, and how's it different from A⋅h?" Tags="|electrical|battery|jetta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13512" CreationDate="2016-08-21T03:14:00.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're still in Drive and/or going too fast. You have to be in a low gear AND stay below 18MPH for lock to stay engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/md0404/MD0404O00176B.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honda&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vehicle must be stopped with&#xA;the engine running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the shift lever to First (1),&#xA;Second (2), or Reverse (R) gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the VTM-4 Lock button.&#xA;The light in the button will come&#xA;on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The VTM-4 Lock will temporarily&#xA;disengage when the vehicle speed&#xA;exceeds 18 mph (30 km/h). It will&#xA;automatically engage again as the&#xA;speed slows below 18 mph (30&#xA;km/h). The button light will remain on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:14:00.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35464" CreationDate="2016-08-21T08:24:20.210" Score="5" ViewCount="1982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2014 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 TDI Bluemotion. It is a 6 speed manual transmission. I understand that it is a car tuned for economy. But it still asks me to shift too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if I'm at 1800 - 2000 rpm at 70 km/h in 4th gear, it will ask me to shift upto 6th. When i shift into 6th the engine is barely at 1200 - 1300 rpm, which I imagine is going to lug the engine pretty badly as it is a turbocharged and the engine doesn't get boost until 1600 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is whether i should actually take the car's suggestions for shifting gears, or listen to myself and try to keep the engine in the powerband as much as possible ignoring the early shifts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21688" LastEditorUserId="21688" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T18:36:35.790" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T19:23:24.660" Title="Car suggests shifting gears too early" Tags="|vw|diesel|turbocharger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-22T07:56:30.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35496" CreationDate="2016-08-21T10:48:09.177" Score="0" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;LDV 2.5 Maxus. Does not start on key, but runs well on easy start. Does the high-pressure fuel pump have a fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21782" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T17:57:53.403" Title="LDV 2.5 Maxus: Does the high-pressure fuel pump have a fuse?" Tags="|van|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35457" CreationDate="2016-08-21T10:53:42.970" Score="0" ViewCount="2120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a inexperienced driver. &#xA;Yesterday, I drove my car, Honda odyssey, for total 4 miles by 30-40 mph with parking brake on. Even though brake light was on, I didn't notice it. &#xA;I felt vibration and heard noise. &#xA;What would happen to my car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21784" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T11:39:40.193" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T13:12:37.650" Title="Driving with parking brake on" Tags="|honda|odyssey|parking-brake|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-22T18:34:47.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35454" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:12:37.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 miles at 30/40 mph could heat the brake components and wheel hub until the brake fluid boils, the wheel bearing grease runs out, the rotors/drums warp, etc. I recommend complete disassembly and inspection including repack wheel bearings and bleed brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T13:12:37.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:47:03.830" Score="0" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ford focus mk1, it doesn't have a remote key, but a central locking system, ie, when some door is unlocked all should be unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not work at all. I have checked the central fuses, behind the glove compartment, and they seem ok, what else might it be and how can I troubleshoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T17:43:47.937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T17:43:47.937" Title="What are usual causes of problems with central locking system?" Tags="|electrical|ford|focus|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T13:54:23.133" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Honda civic 1.6 auto I have an intermittent fault sometimes from a stopped position, if you depress the throttle pedal it makes a (put put ) sound and the rpm won't increase then after a few seconds it will go as normal.&#xA;I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, MAP sensor, plug leads, coil rotor arm. and l still have the same problem.The ecu shows no faults found. Can anybody help me it would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi Fred Yes l have engine check No Faults found from the ecu. Is 1998. has 155000 kilometres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi Ben the map sensor is new, I fitted a new Bosch feul pump had  it pressure tested while driving the car Reading 3.5 Bar. Engine vacuum ok no leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21788" LastEditorUserId="57" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T11:47:46.720" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T12:05:17.370" Title="Car splutters and rpm won' increase when gas pedal is depressed intermitently" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T15:55:47.223" Score="3" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;For background, I bought my Prius used in the early 2015 with about 160,000 on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few months I noticed that the hybrid battery would be systematically drained or nearly so upon starting the car, even if at the moment of turn it off it had been full or nearly so.  The car struggled going uphill.  I found the 12v battery drained one day (yes, will all the flashy lights on the dashboard, then nothing, etc).  I replaced it and I found the new one drained a few days later.  (Note that I do not drive my car that much and sometimes do not use it for more than a week.  I have a motorcycle.)  I still have that same one, though.  I just charged it up and made sure I drove the car at least once a week.  But the other issues remained.  I though the hybrid battery was going bad and was pulling on the 12v battery somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think was happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21791" LastEditorUserId="21791" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T04:16:04.027" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T18:13:41.057" Title="Prius 2004 (generation II): problem with brake drained hybrid battery" Tags="|brakes|battery-drain|prius|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T16:33:50.370" Score="2" ViewCount="2214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have an 02' jeep liberty with a 3.7l v6. Originally received a random misfire code and a code for misfire on cylinder 5. Replaced the coil on cylinder 5 and the random misfire code and misfire for cylinder 5 went away but started receiving a code for misfire on cylinder 6??? Switched a known good coil with the coil that was on cylinder number 6, cleared codes, drove around, code stayed consistent. Removed the fuel rail and injectors, tested and cleaned each fuel injector, reinstalled, cleared codes, went for another test drive, same code cylinder 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thing is running so poorly I find it hard to believe it could just be a single cylinder misfire. After it sits for a bit and you clear the codes you can take it down the road and it will be (barely) drive-able. After about a mile of 60mph up some hills the check engine light will come back on. At this point the vehicle begins to buck, almost like it's trying to die, then picks itself back up. It will do this until you take release the accelerator and let the transmission shift all the way down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even after this behavior the only trouble code is P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire. Took a gamble and replaced the camshaft position sensor. Cleared the codes, went for a drive, and the same behavior persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could be causing this behavior? Ignition control module/Transistor pack (if these engines have one of those)? Open to any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6802" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T20:39:33.827" Title="2002 Jeep Liberty 3.7 v6 misfires and bucks" Tags="|electrical|ignition|jeep|misfire|liberty|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35452" CreationDate="2016-08-21T19:23:24.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is suggesting shifting up early as &quot;it is tuned for economy&quot; - it is not trying to get you to speed quickly. It is trying to be economic with fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the guidance on the dash (remember it doesn't expect you to shift at the moment the indicator appears, but at some point soon after that) then you will gently accelerate, and not go into boost. (using the turbo does cost in terms of fuel economy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to accelerate faster, and stay in each gear longer you will get to top speed faster but use more fuel in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, if I'm gentle and short shift in my Litchfield (changing up around 1200rpm), I can average around 35mpg. Going for performance (changing up at 7500rpm) I average 8 mpg. In the later cass I get to 60 in 4 seconds, as opposed to more than double that when I accelerate gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is: It's up to you. How do you wish to drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T19:23:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2016-08-21T19:52:09.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that there is not any Trash between your condenser and radiator. Leaves and grass will prevent it from cooling properly and thus making the pressure rise to a point where it will cut off automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21795" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T19:52:09.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35462" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:21:03.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From interpreting the question and the comment I would recommend the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change both fuel and air filter. I don't exactly where the fuel filter should be in your vehicle. Normally it is near the tank, jack the vehicle up and follow the fuel line from the engine back to the tank. If changing the fuel-filter is problematic: Start by changing the air-filter and testdrive the car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem persists: Check the pump/eventual filter in the tank. I have only changed a fuel pump once at a small european car, so I wont be a big help here. Just in case I write how it was done: It was necessary to pump out the fuel with an external pump, open the fuel tank hatch located under the rear seats, open the tank by rotating the circular seal/opening and replace the in-tank module.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any sounds / other observations of something that seems not to be right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T20:39:33.827" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T20:39:33.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35469" CreationDate="2016-08-21T20:40:52.863" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using MOTORCRAFT brand spark plugs, and would like to know the recommended  the gap for a 2004 Ford TAURUS 3.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have a a leak in the lower section of the intake manifold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21796" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T21:18:30.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T21:18:30.310" Title="Ford Taurus 2004 3.0" Tags="|ford|sparkplugs|taurus|intake-manifold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35468" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:17:21.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you do not have the SHO DOHC motor, Motorcraft SP413 spark plugs come pre-gapped at .044 inches, which is the OEM specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your intake manifold leak is likely due to a gasket problem, but flatness should be checked on mating surfaces to make certain the gasket failure was not a result of warpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T21:17:21.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-21T21:55:14.200" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just filled up my 2014 Chevy Sonic LT at the gas station. I had a faulty gas pump. I am not sure, but the pump may have put supreme fuel into the gas tank instead of regular. Would I feel a difference in driving the car, and could it harm the engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21798" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T22:36:47.963" Title="May Have put Supreme gas in car instead of regular" Tags="|chevrolet|fuel-system|sonic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-22T00:39:48.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T00:20:23.687" Score="3" ViewCount="1414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would corrosion on battery post cause my car not to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can charge the car and it still will not start but if i clean the post it will start every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21800" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T10:30:05.697" Title="Corrosion on battery post" Tags="|battery|car|corrosion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35482" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:24:12.127" Score="3" ViewCount="32975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am purchasing my next project car, a 1976 Fiat 124. For those that don't know, it's a rear wheel drive manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area, it's not possible to rent a flat-bed trailer unless I want to spend over $300. A tow dolly however is less than $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to tow it about 120 miles. Based on my brief internet searching, I've found the following options to tow it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock the steering wheel (how?) and tow it backwards (rear wheels forward)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the drive shaft and tow it front wheels forward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it in neutral with the parking brake off and front wheels forward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these options is the safest method of towing this car? Or is there another method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the above methods will work, what will I need to do to make it safe? What should I be aware of or cautious about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21327" LastEditorDisplayName="user21327" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T01:30:38.760" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T09:24:55.843" Title="How can I tow a RWD manual transmission car with a tow dolly safely?" Tags="|manual-transmission|towing|rwd|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35473" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:38:43.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this happen, so yes. The starter motor has a high current draw, corrosion will affect the starter more than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T01:38:43.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3497" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:19:09.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use 91 or 93 octane trust me. It will not damage we have 2007 prius they are designed to run on higher octane to make sure there is no pets ignition going on lower Octain ignites at a lower compression and exploding before it supposed to will damage the rods and slowly wear the motor to run bad. As the prius will try to correct it self use the 91 or 93.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T02:19:09.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:19:42.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you are somewhat correct most production  cars only use helical gars for foward gears mostly because spur gears are loud and customers would complain.. But for any type of performance transmission used for racing or because you want them can have all spur gears.. And shifting without a clutch on spur gears is completely ok it's called bang shifting, basically yanking shifter into next gear without really lifting, most circle track cars do this. And because you are using it for some type of performance use of course you will need to be rebuilding it more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21804" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T02:19:42.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T03:09:54.800" Score="1" ViewCount="2749" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a previous post I recounted how a brake issue was perturbing the hybrid battery.  After having the brake job done, a few weeks later (but not much driving in terms of miles), the (red) brake light and the (yellow) ABS light with the circled exclamation mark appeared on the dashboard.  They would appear upon starting the car, remain for a while, disappear, reappear, while driving.  Also, I noticed that the car was braking in a very weird (and non-reassuring) way, as if I had to apply more force to the pedal.  Also, upon starting the car, the car would start moving on its own a little bit (again, not reassuring) and, upon turning the car off, the brake pedal would move by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the same shop and they said they would have to run an ABS test ($100+ dollars) and take it from there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked online, thought for a while that it was the inverter coolant pump. I checked as shown &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHe5dpHaFY4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and there were some bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints as to what is going on?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21791" LastEditorUserId="21791" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T04:21:24.877" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T20:29:57.313" Title="Prius 2004 (generation II): brake/ABS warning lights" Tags="|brake-fluid|prius|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T05:20:13.453" Score="0" ViewCount="1989" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I start my car it hesitates, like an extention of its normal starts.. it doesn't make a ticking noise so it's not the battery I've had that and the alternator checked already.  I took it in cuz it threw a code that the intake valve was sticking get which was fixed but it is still hesitating at times.. I wanna say it's when it's cold.. any thoughts?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21805" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T15:15:46.357" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T15:15:46.357" Title="Car hesitates when starting on a cold start" Tags="|starting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35474" CreationDate="2016-08-22T09:21:08.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest way to tow it is to remove the driveline and tow it forward. This will ensure the transmission is not run dry. I'm unsure if the Fiat transmission is lubed from the front, back, or either side of motion within it. By taking the drive shaft down, you eliminate the possibility all together. Replacing or rebuilding a Fiat tranny because you don't do this would not be cheap, I'm sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There most likely is only four bolts holding it onto the differential. You'll most likely want to keep the slip yoke in place by tieing the driveshaft off someplace securely onto the vehicle from underneath. By leaving it in place, you'll ensure no fluid leakage from the transmission during towing, but you'll need to make sure the driveshaft is very secure in the process. Use several zip ties or even good old bailing wire. Something strong and dependable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T09:21:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35474" CreationDate="2016-08-22T09:24:55.843" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest option and the one which I'd be most comfortable with is spending the $300 on a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the car is a project and therefore not in a roadworthy state.  It's therefore safe to assume that the tyres won't be in great condition, the hubs and bearings may not be too clever and presumably you don't know the condition of the bodywork to where you'll be attaching the dolly to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of a trailer is it effectively takes the whole vehicles condition out of the equation.  Provided you can get it onto the load bed and appropriately secure it, you're home free.  If the tyres won't hold air, if they're cracked or if the tread is illegal; doesn't matter.  If the chassis is rotten and the vehicle flexes or crabs, it doesn't matter.  If the suspension or steering bushes are perished and it won't track up true, it doesn't matter.  If the hubs are so dry they'll run their bearings in just 5 miles of 20mph+ operation; it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it from someone who has extensive experience with 70's Italian stuff; the cost of the trailer compared to the cost of a dolly is negligible when compared with the total cost of restoring and running such a car.  Pay the money, get the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider looking into vehicle transport sites where transporters bid for your business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fiat 124 is a fantastic car by the way.  A friend of mine has a 124 Spider and did the Montecarlo Historic in it a couple of year ago.  When it's working right, it's a truly wonderful machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T09:24:55.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35459" CreationDate="2016-08-22T09:32:47.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start from basic principles (before you spend any more money on parts that aren't fixing the problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the static timing is correct.  Then perform a compression test.  If both of these things check out, check that the ignition timing is correct and that the ignition leads are on in the right order (you'd be surprised!).  Check that you have a nice strong spark.  Check that your fuel pressure at the fuel rail is good and check that you have appropriate readings from your throttle position sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this kind of thing many many times and it almost always comes down to something very simple (like timing a tooth out or two ignition leads crossed over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T09:32:47.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35473" CreationDate="2016-08-22T09:38:59.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This goes straight back to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ohms Law&lt;/a&gt; as the corrosion is effectively adding a resistor into the starter circuit this reducing the amount of current the starter motor can physically draw.  Starting the engine is the most intensive duty your cars electrical system has to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A this smear of grease on the battery terminals following a good clean should prevent corrosion from re-occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T09:38:59.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35459" CreationDate="2016-08-22T10:26:23.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Steve the plug lead are correct as this is an  intermitant fault normally when driving the cars run perfectly. It is only sometimes when  you start to drive from a stopped position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21788" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T10:26:23.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35473" CreationDate="2016-08-22T10:30:05.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boil a kettle and pour boiling water over the terminals this clean the terminal perfectly then put vasoline on the terminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21788" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T10:30:05.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T13:56:11.323" Score="2" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the transmission and engine mounts on the truck now I have a vibration in the steering wheel and can feel it in park and driving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21810" LastEditorUserId="5018" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T21:26:13.397" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T21:26:13.397" Title="Steering wheel vibration after changing mounts on a 2002 Ford F150 4.2L V6" Tags="|ford|f-150|motor-mounts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35493" CreationDate="2016-08-22T14:25:34.360" Score="3" ViewCount="2869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed recently that my passenger seat is quite noisy. The highways I drive on for work are bumpy and uneven, and the passenger seat seems to shake a lot. It makes a constant rattling or tapping sound, and it does so at a fast pace. I can confirm that it's the seat, as when I reach over to hold it down with my arm, the noise stops. It only seems to be the backrest of the seat, not the part where you sit on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My car is a 2006 Toyota Corolla. Are there any tips for quieting a noisy seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21560" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T14:32:14.587" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T18:23:10.377" Title="How to quiet a noisy passenger seat?" Tags="|toyota|noise|corolla|seat|rattle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2016-08-22T14:41:36.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;U can access the spot lights in the front bumper from the bottom, u don't need to take anything else off.... go under the front of the car ull see them couple of screws and there done!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21812" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T14:41:36.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35491" CreationDate="2016-08-22T15:26:59.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost impossible to say without knowing what is rattling, so you have to find out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could give it a few good shakes by hand when the car is stopped, if you can make the noise happen you should be able to narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then at that point it just becomes a matter of either a proper fix (tightening bolts, resetting springs, replacing worn parts) or creative problem solving (shove a rag in a gap, put some weight in the chair, change the seat position, duct tape, bungee cords, zip ties -- for example, you say it stops when you hold it down with your arm, so as a quick fix rig something up to always apply that pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9884" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T18:23:10.377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T18:23:10.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12342" CreationDate="2016-08-22T17:53:29.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Altering the mileage reading on a motor vehicle (causing fraud) is a felony. Selling the car without notifying the buyer of the odometer change would be illegal. If you notify the buyer of the change, there is nothing illegal about it. No need to fix it. Just keep in mind that its behind for service intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10790" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T17:53:29.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35453" CreationDate="2016-08-22T17:57:53.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The high pressure pump is not an electric pump, it is powered by the toothed belt. I would suggest you to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the fuel filter is clean (not the main suspect, but the easiest thing to check)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask your mechanic for a return flow measurment monitoring of the injectors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional stuff: Check for leaks, abnormal exhaust fumes, rough idling and abnormal engine sounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T17:57:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35436" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:19:24.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it could be a number of things: the pads could need grease on the NON-braking side (i.e. the side that doesn't touch the rotors), the caliper pins could be sticking, the brake pad guide plates could be dirty and causing the pads to stick, or your caliper piston itself could be sticking slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greasing the backs of the pads is pretty self-explanatory. If your caliper pins are sticking, you'll need to remove each pin and attempt to remove any corrosion on the body of the pin that slides into the caliper. Or you could try to buy new pins if they're really bad. After the pins are clean for the most part, you would use a small file or something similar to try and clear out any corrosion within the pin holes themselves. Then, use a little bit of grease on each pin before sliding them back into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brake pad guide plates are corroded, use a flat file and gently file away the buildup on each plate until the pads can be put into place with relative ease. Apply a small amount of grease to the tips of the brake pad that sit in the guide plates as well for good measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to NOT get any grease on the actual braking material of the pad. If any grease gets on the braking side of the pad or the rotor be sure to wipe it off completely before reassembling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these solutions are easy repairs that usually do the trick in getting rid of sticking brake pad problems. Definitely try all of these steps before looking to see if the caliper itself is starting to stick slightly and hold the pad too tightly to the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T13:09:24.960" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T13:09:24.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35641" CreationDate="2016-08-22T19:34:22.647" Score="5" ViewCount="13720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a complex AC problem in my Civic. I need to tell you the story so that you might get a potential diagnosis of the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car started having problems with AC in 2015. After driving for a while, the evaporator would freeze (blowing ice pieces to your face), then no longer would get cool air (after ice clogged evaporator completely).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once that happened, I would turn off the AC and keep fan on to melt ice, then turn AC back on... I kept doing this for most of 2015 until...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On 2016 it finally died completely. It would not engage, the clutch would not kick in (compressor not spinning), and obviously I would not get any cool air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took it to a mechanic, they said it was a bad compressor, replaced the compressor and recharged the system, and $1300.00 later I was happy with my AC working and cooling fine, but...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't use car for 3 days, on 4th day I start the car and guess what? No AC, no clutch engaging, no cool air. I took it to the same mechanic (they have a 1-year warranty on the work...) and they told me they were not able to figure out the problem... and to bring it back other day and leave it. Fine, I haven't brought it back until I get more information myself. Somehow I suspect they didn't do a right diagnostic the first time, and perhaps I paid $1300 to change a compressor that was not really the root cause!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I take it to a HONDA dealership, they say is the ECM/computer... they come up with some weird story that there is oil in the ECM connector and the computer is leaking oil? Seriously? I don't buy that crap. So I start doing my investigation and reading about AC myself. Of course, the dealership wanted to charge me $900 to replace the ECM which scared me away immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my investigation after reading about Civic 2007 electrical circuits, AC, sensors and so forth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All fuses are OK and working. I tested every single one in the AC circuits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relay that kicks in the compressor/clutch is fine. I tested it outside the car, using power-supply and multimeter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clutch is not the problem, I manually verified that it engages. Now, when I jumper the high-current terminals to force the clutch/compressor, it almost makes the engine stall. It sounds like the compressor cannot add any more pressure into the system, or there is some obstruction (at least that's my theory). Another possibility is that the new compressor is broken as well? Who knows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FYI, the relay that kicks in the AC is controlled by a ground enabled by the ECM/computer. That signal is never received as the clutch never engages, the relay is good, and I verified continuity from the relay terminal to the ECM pin. Apparently the ECM is simply protecting the system due to input from some other sensor, perhaps that the pressure is too hight in the system?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also need to mention that when you start the AC in the dashboard panel, the cabin blower starts as expected. However, the AC condenser and radiator fans are not engaged (both should come on), instead they remain off (again, this should also be that the ECM is not sending the signal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the car completely off, the pressure readings I get are 113 PSI(low side), 110 PSI (high side) which I really don't understand much. I can't read any dynamic pressure as the compressor is not kicking in as mentioned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 8/23: The cabin self-diagnostic function (tests control unit, blower, air mix and mode motors, evaporator temp sensor) detected no issues. So I guess that rules out any problem with the control unit or evaporator temperature sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, having said all this, what is the most likely root cause of the problem? Bad pressure sensor? Bad evaporator temperature sensor? Problem in the evaporator valve or orifice tube? Any way to check the previous components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there is a remote possibility that indeed it is the computer. Is there any way to check if that's the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21815" LastEditorUserId="21815" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T15:13:52.833" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:28:09.137" Title="Honda Civic 2007 AC compressor replaced, clutch not engaging, no ECM signal" Tags="|honda|ac|civic|hvac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30015" CreationDate="2016-08-22T19:56:34.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is really quite straightforward. You had a wire going from your high beam's + lead to your low beam's + lead. Somewhere along that run of wire, it shorted to ground (touched the frame likely, assuming your ground wire isn't also burnt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bypassing a wire isn't necessarily a bad &lt;em&gt;last resort&lt;/em&gt;. However, it should involve running a new length of [appropriate gauge] wire from the fuse box, through the firewall, to the headlight. In that manner, you're not overloading some other circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to a mechanic and have them sort it out if you're not handy with electrical work. The original problem (pre-wire jump) will have to be resolved and reconnected (or) the jumping wire run replaced correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T19:56:34.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35519" CreationDate="2016-08-22T20:26:53.603" Score="9" ViewCount="6509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can close this if it's a dup but my Google-fu didn't find a satisfactory answer.  In the middle of the floor of some older automatic transmission sedans, there is a bump (my old 4 dr 2005 Accord, 4 dr 1984 Volvo DL, 4 dr 2000 Saturn LS1).  I'm not seeing this same bump in newer sedans (2016 Civic, 2009 Civic).  I think all the cars I listed are FWD so that bump can't be for RWD.  What is the bump for?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3332" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T07:43:55.540" Title="Bump on the floor in the back of sedans" Tags="|automatic-transmission|civic|accord|volvo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35490" CreationDate="2016-08-22T20:34:02.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would perform the same test to check for bad engine mounts, in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place your foot on the brake, engine in gear, and give it a bit of gas. Through the gap under the [raised] hood, watch the engine to see if it jumps up &gt; 1 inch. If it is jumping, have someone watch the engine closer (or swap positions with you) to see if you can identify the point of movement. Perhaps a mount isn't fully secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Ebay sells some extremely cheap, low quality &quot;new&quot; mounts, I don't doubt that some could feel even worse than well-worn OEM mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety first, stand to the side, not in front of the vehicle when doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T20:34:02.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35501" CreationDate="2016-08-22T21:02:38.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone can feel free to disagree with me since I'm not 100% on this, but I believe those bumps are placed into the design in order to give the exhaust system a little more breathing room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNXGT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNXGT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the hump in the actual body of the car above the exhaust here. This is to aid in keeping unwanted heat away from the passenger area of the car while the heat shield provides an extra layer of protection on top of the physical space around the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T21:02:38.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35449" CreationDate="2016-08-22T21:04:54.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you may be seriously overthinking this purchase. Simply get the correct size battery for your car. The CCA are a ballpark number whose truthiness is going to be dependent on the honesty of the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reserve capacity is the number of minutes a battery can output a useful voltage under a 25 Amp discharge load. Since a specification is going to be a minimum-spec met for the battery, aka meet-or-exceed standard, it simply states that they all meet this standard- however many minutes the standard may require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T21:04:54.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35501" CreationDate="2016-08-22T21:20:02.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the hump is there just for the exhaust, although as was pointed out in the comment it adds ground clearance which is a nice thing. The &quot;transmission hump&quot; (in honor of rear wheel drive cars) also adds structural strength – essentially a beam running down the center of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that if it wasn't needed (or at least very useful) for structural reasons it wouldn't be there. Back when the hump was used for the transmission and drive shaft the exhaust managed for find its way to the back of the car without the hump…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The early SAABs didn't have a hump and it made for a much more comfortable interior (IMHO) especially in the rear seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T05:20:12.323" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T05:20:12.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35130" CreationDate="2016-08-22T21:59:09.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it instantly dies when you put it in gear, even when holding the clutch (and the clutch is operational, which you can know if it doesn't jerk forward when you shift into gear when holding the clutch), it's almost certainly the kickstand safety switch. You should see a physical switch of some kind that makes contact with the kickstand when it's either down or up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bypass this pretty easily, but it's actually a useful safety switch, and it's ideal to replace or repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21818" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T21:59:09.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35710" CreationDate="2016-08-22T22:07:52.967" Score="3" ViewCount="26643" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1994 Nissan Sentra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GA16DE engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-speed automatic transmission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;298,400 km&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recent Work (3 months ago):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plugs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spark plug cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distributor rotor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distributor cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned K&amp;amp;N reusable air filter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaned MAF sensor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taped up superficial cracks in the air intake tube (with electrical tape)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car's been running great (&quot;better than ever&quot;) for the past 3 months. Saturday night while I was returning home, the car started sputtering when I stopped at a traffic light and has been down a lot of power (I'd say 50%) throughout the RPM range. The car shakes at idle, and it's worse when in gear at parking lot speeds, the transmission still upshifts and downshifts when you would expect it to and there are no unusual engine sounds. It feels like a persistent misfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was running low on fuel when this started, and I was on my way to a fuel station (I thought I may have pushed the fuel too far and suffering fuel starvation). Filling up didn't fix the issue, but it did reveal I had 1.3L left in the tank (there's usually 3-5L left when I fill up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Troubleshooting done:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;battery reads fine (12.6V with car off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alternator seems fine (14.0V at battery terminals with car on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nothing obvious is disconnected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air filter looks fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect I may have aspirated gunk from the bottom of the tank which may have obstructed the fuel filter. I picked one up and will install it after a quick lunch. My question is: what else could it be? Specifically, ever since those new parts went on 3 months ago, I've been hearing a whine at high rpms. I didn't think anything of it, could it be the air intake gasket leaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #1:&lt;/strong&gt; Changed fuel filter, read spark plugs and performed compression test. Spark plugs read fine (to me), compression test was even (130-140 psi) across all 4 cylinders, test drive showed slight improvement, but still down a bunch of power and shakes at parking lot speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2:&lt;/strong&gt; Performed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Jb_Ti0TmW_k?t=48s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water sizzle test&lt;/a&gt; and found a dead cylinder (#1), then confirmed it with a surface thermometer. In the amount of time the other three cylinders were getting up to 140C, #1 was still sitting at 40C. Timing light confirmed all 4 cylinders are getting strong regular spark, so it's most likely a fuel thing. Bad injector or bad electrical connection to the injector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #3:&lt;/strong&gt; Removed upper plenum, air intake hose and throttle body in order to access and detach the fuel rail. Disconnected all 4 injectors and performed resistance test: #1 reads open, #2 and #3 are reading higher than spec, #4 is reading way higher than spec. I'll be replacing the entire set. Question: the friggin little plastic clips that hold the electrical connectors onto the injectors snapped. Just the clip part, not the overmold part. Any suggestions besides zipties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T06:30:05.643" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T07:01:57.910" Title="Sputtering at low rpm and massive loss of power, sudden onset and persistent" Tags="|engine|nissan|gasoline|misfire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32977" CreationDate="2016-08-22T22:43:09.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's part of your shift linkage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a shift rod that transfers power from your shift left to your shift drum via the shaft that will rotate when you shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shift rod has ball joints on either end.  This is the likely source of your squeak.  Use a lubricant on them, preferably a dry lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once lubricated the sound should go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shift rod w/ ball joints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cp99l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cp99l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T22:43:09.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2617" CreationDate="2016-08-22T22:50:18.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine doesnt have feet under the battery, although i thiught the same thing. You are probably being to gentle with it as i was before i got mad. There is just a stem that goes into a slot, so youll have to pull up on it before maneuvering it out. Helps to tie back the radiator overflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21819" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T22:50:18.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T23:38:07.657" Score="2" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow-up from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/13483/how-fast-does-the-alternator-charge-the-battery&quot;&gt;how fast does the alternator charge the battery?&lt;/a&gt;, how powerful are alternators supposed to be at idle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, if I have a lot of OEM accessories in my 2008 Jetta 2.5L SE, that are all turned on (e.g., heated seats, AC, defroster etc), or, if it's really hot and humid outside, and I have AC running at full speed, and the engine sensor is so hot that it turns on the engine cooling fans at full speed, too, and voltage immediately drops and stays below 13.2V (e.g., below 2.2V * 6), but is still above 12V, is there a problem with the alternator/voltage-regulator (mine's a combined part), or is that by design?  (When the car is just turned on, or the power-hungry accessories are turned off and the engine cooling fans aren't running at full speed, then the voltage is between 14.4V and 13.5V, depending on how long the car has been running.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T15:42:22.483" Title="Is alternator/voltage-regulator supposed to power everything always at 13.5V+ at idle?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|voltage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T00:41:19.800" Score="2" ViewCount="2361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my battery has just been not holding a charge, it's the second battery to do this (albeit this battery is used (or refurbished)--cheap I know). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rapidly deteriorating to a point where a week ago, if I didn't drive the care within 48 hours it would be dead, now it's more like 24 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a parasitic draw test, and upon initial contact it displays around 0.3 amps then lowers to 0.08 (I'm guessing that maybe as electrical devices in the car turn on, they transition into a power-saving mode?) the 0.08 doesn't seem to be enough to worry about, and certainly doesn't seem to be enough to drain the battery overnight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the car is running, the volts read 12.8~ with about 1500-2000 rpm, they go up to 13.5~ so I know the alternator is putting out power, but is that enough? Or is it reading lower because the battery is low to begin with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to rule out all causes before I buy a new battery. As of now I've disconnected the battery and will let it sit overnight, if it shows lower than what it was at (12.3v) prior to disconnecting, this is pretty much proof the battery is just bad rather than it being an alternator or electrical issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21681" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T04:59:14.883" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T05:00:41.393" Title="Car battery bad, or alternator?" Tags="|electrical|battery|alternator|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35511" CreationDate="2016-08-23T02:45:35.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;12.3v is actually fairly low for a coventional flooded lead-acid automotive battery expected to be at full charge.  That translates to a State of Charge (SOC) around 50%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a battery load tester, the easiest thing might be to charge the battery with a regulated external charger overnight.  Then disconnect the charger, turn the headlights on for two solid minutes, turn off the headlights, and check the Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) of the battery between the posts with a good voltmeter.  A fully charged battery should show 12.7-12.9 volts minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much below that, I would suspect the battery.  I don't know what a &quot;refurbished&quot; battery is, but to my knowledge there really isn't such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12.8v running idle and 13.5v at higher revs (measuring alternator voltage) output seems reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find an auto parts store that will load test your battery for free.  This test is best performed when the battery is at least 75% charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T05:00:41.393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T05:00:41.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T03:03:53.317" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have oil in my coolant. I don't have coolant in the oil. I got told it will want flushing out and a new coil. I have a Vauxhall Astra 2006 1.6 engine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21822" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T04:45:29.140" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T05:12:45.510" Title="My coolant has oil in it could this be the coil?" Tags="|coolant|cooling-system|oil-leak|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35513" CreationDate="2016-08-23T04:53:50.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that by coil they meant the oil cooler. These seem to be a weak point in these cars (based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php/649943-How-many-have-bypassed-OIL-COOLER-1-7DTI-(y17dt)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on the Astra Owners' Club site). Some of the folks there are suggesting bypassing the oil cooler claiming that it is only needed when towing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T04:53:50.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35499" CreationDate="2016-08-23T05:03:54.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the symptoms you mentioned is evaporator coil freeze up is caused by restricted air flow. If your vehicle has a cabin filter change it. When the air flow is restricted the temperature around the evaporator drops and ice forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause of freeze up is low refrigerant which would explain your high low pressures being almost equal. When the refrigerant in the system is low due to leakage over time, there will be a decrease in the saturation point temperature of the system. When this happens, it will take a lower temperature for all the refrigerant liquid that has been compressed by the compressor to become vapor in the evaporator. You probably have a leak in the joints in the a/c tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the operating temperature of the cooling coils has now dropped compared to the original design. This lower temperature will cause moisture collected from the air to quickly becomes ice on the evaporator when the temperature goes below below 0 C (32 F). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons I am speculating regarding the fan not cycling is related to both temperature and system pressure being insufficient to be triggered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ECM and compressor are probably fine.  Rotary compressors are for the most part are virtually indestructible. If you want to defrost the evaporator coil turn the heat on and make sure the condensate tube is clear so the water can drain out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Additional info&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source of your problem is either the orifice tube (located at the inlet of the evaporator coil or the thermal expansion valve. Both of these devices do the same thing a different way. If the system uses an orifice tube, there will be an accumulator between the evaporator and the compressor. An orifice tube sometimes lets too much refrigerant into the evaporator and it doesn't all boil. Since the compressor cannot compress liquid, only gas, the accumulator traps any excess liquid before it can get into the compressor.&#xA;With an orifice tube, the flow of refrigerant through the valve (tube) is constant. Overall flow throughout the A/C system is controlled by cycling the A/C system compressor on and off as required. The end result remains the same; there is a controlled amount of refrigerant entering into the evaporator.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The biggest problem with orifice tubes is that they tend to easily get plugged with debris that may be traveling throughout the A/C system. As soon as the flow of refrigerant through an orifice tube is restricted, the flow of oil (which travels throughout the A/C system in the refrigerant) is also restricted. That becomes the start of catastrophic compressor failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or your ECM is toast  &lt;strong&gt;:)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T07:49:34.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T07:49:34.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35510" CreationDate="2016-08-23T05:14:37.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternator output is dependent on the speed of the alternator (which will be proportional to engine speed, but usually faster). [This source][1] states that a &quot;typical&quot; alternator has a minimum speed of around 2,400 RPM, max output at around 6,000 RPM, and a never exceed (redline) speed of 18,000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC that engine redlines at 6,500 RPM, which means that at idle the alternator is probably turning a bit below 2,400. Based on that the behavior you describe sounds pretty normal. You should see the voltage climb as the engine speed comes up to normal operating speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T05:14:37.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25664" CreationDate="2016-08-23T05:53:26.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;try to put &lt;a href=&quot;http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/348/576/163/1163576348_751.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubber stopper&lt;/a&gt; on the springs, ask your mechanics about this. We have the same car but im using 15&quot;, All stock, VIOS e 3rd gen also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21825" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T05:53:26.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T07:36:00.390" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;White smoke from exhaust where tailpipe and muffler meet and it looses power it is a 2000 Mazda 626 with 234000+ miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21828" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T15:33:02.937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T15:33:02.937" Title="Why is there white smoke coming from the exhaust where the tailpipe and muffler meet and it looses power it is a 2000 Mazda626 234000+ miles" Tags="|mazda|smoke|mazda-626|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-29T13:08:34.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35501" CreationDate="2016-08-23T07:43:55.540" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hump provides &lt;strong&gt;longitudinal rigidity in the unibody&lt;/strong&gt;. The fact that it &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; provides a place to route the exhaust is a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that modern CAD-designed vehicles have much less of an obvious hump, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; they also have a roofless option (cabriolet, convertible, removable hardtop). On these vehicles the center hump is the main rigid structure in the vehicle, and is still pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T07:43:55.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T08:38:51.920" Score="4" ViewCount="10434" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does my bike start only when the fuel petcock valve is in the reserve position, and not when its in ON position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21829" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T03:56:30.217" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T21:16:47.440" Title="Bike starts only when fuel petcock is in reserve position" Tags="|motorcycle|yamaha|petcock|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35520" CreationDate="2016-08-23T10:26:34.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you Run your motorcycle On Reserve setting over Long period of time impurities tend to get deposited on the &quot;ON&quot; setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may prevent the bike from getting started initially, All you have to do is fill up till half tank or so and while running at around 40 or 50 kmph turn the valve to &quot;ON&quot; position. It should free the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above step does not work then there might be a clog in the valve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T10:26:34.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:06:02.863" Score="2" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story: I have a turbocharged 2l engine in my car, and a 3&quot; straight through exhaust, that is very very loud and drones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I bought a cable operated inline butterfly valve, that can be opened and closed and install between the test pipe and mid-pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently valve looks like this.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hX9f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3hX9f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, for me to be able to drive around, I need to drill holes so that when it's fully closed, I could still drive around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: Should I drill a bunch of little holes, or one larger one. How large should it be for optimal sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to remove the drone(deeper tones) and eliminate sound as much as possible, while still keeping the car at least 50% efficient when closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock exhaust is 2.5&quot; in diameter and does a fantastic job quieting the exhaust, but it also has a resonator and pretty restrictive muffler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" OwnerDisplayName="Alexus" LastEditorUserId="4939" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T14:39:58.113" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T07:08:49.773" Title="Best diameter for exhaust valve opening for sound/performance" Tags="|exhaust|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:03:52.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;David is correct it left the factory in 2006 August.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing is to know what to look for.  Batteries sold in the EU must be permanently marked with a means for manufacturers to identify production batches (if needed to recall a defective batch).  This requirement does not extend outside the EU, but as many manufacturers have no idea where batches may end up being sold, most arrange for batteries to include the information either explicitly - often on a label stating clearly the year/month the item left the factory - or in a code which is sometimes buried in a lot of other numbers.  A genuine Bosch silver Battery has a very long number laser etched into the case - such as GBC1110330337 290A 24 &#xA;Ignore everything on the printed labels.  With batteries what matters is the number laser etched or physically melted as a string of numbers/letters into the case.  To find the month of manufacture ignore the first three letters (GBC) it is the next 3 numbers which will identify when it left the factory. Then look up the three digit code here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://aa-boschap-ru.resource.bosch.com/media/commonly_used_media/parts/repairs_and_service/_01072015.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aa-boschap-ru.resource.bosch.com/media/commonly_used_media/parts/repairs_and_service/_01072015.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21830" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T13:03:52.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35591" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:35:49.100" Score="4" ViewCount="10948" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Nissan Versa (2008 or '09) driver in the USA, running on 87-octane usually, decided to fill up from almost-empty on 89-octane based on advise that it helps clean the engine. They returned to highway driving and around 1/2-full tank, the &quot;Service engine soon&quot; light came on solid, not blinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before knowing about the fuel mix I suggested to fill up, check the gas cap, and give it another 30 min before worrying about it. Even then, I noted that if everything else appears to be running fine, finish the highway drive and a few hundred miles later when they're back in their home town they could bring it to a mechanic to investigate. Learning about the unusual fuel mix this morning, I immediately thought, that must be the cause!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know (in part from &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/9449/what-happens-if-you-put-the-wrong-kind-of-gas-in-your-car/9458#9458&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;) that putting 89-octane in a car (that is made post-2000) that normally runs 87-octane isn't so bad because the engine will adjust and just run a little less efficiently. My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Are the adjustments an engine makes when running a higher octane mix than usual enough to cause the check engine light to come on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any suggestions on how to proceed back to maximum efficiency (and no check engine light) are appreciated. My guess is let the tank run down to almost empty again and once the E light comes on, fill it up with the usual 87-octane, tighten the gas cap, and give it a little time to settle back in to the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: The light went off after stopping near empty, filling up with 87, and tightening the gas cap (sounds like securing the gas cap was what did the trick). Thanks for the suggestions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="11110" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T04:07:15.620" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T04:07:15.620" Title="Can mixing octanes cause the check engine light to come on?" Tags="|nissan|cel|octane|versa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:24:50.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to remove that oily film on the inside of your cars windshield is to us window with about 2 ozs of white vinegar..spray on and wipe of with a clean paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21832" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:24:50.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35524" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:24:55.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a higher octane fuel should not have caused the SES light to turn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fill-up-related thing I can think of which would cause the SES to turn on is if there is a bad batch of fuel  (something like water). In such a scenario, the SES will be triggered due to the engine knocking. This would be typified by engine sputtering, and is usually accompanied by loss of power if the engine management decides to go into limp mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As none of these symptoms were reported, it is difficult to gauge the real cause though. The surefire way to tell what caused the SES is to query the engine computer via a scan tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:24:55.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:43:07.603" Score="21" ViewCount="32778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a Quick oil change place, and they drained  the oil from my new Fiat 500 and did not refill/replace oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I started the car, I drove approx 1/8 mile before engine quit. The car would not restart. After the car stalled, I raised the hood, and pulled the dipstick which registered not a drop of oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rolled the car into another garage next door that did a proper oil service (where it was also discovered the oil filter had not been changed by the Quick Oil Change garage as indicated on my receipt). After this correct oil service, the &quot;check engine&quot; light was ON, but is now out after driving the car 20 miles. &#xA;The &quot;service engine&quot; light/code was &quot;PO 300&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called Fiat service center; they suggested I drive car to see if running normally. Is it possible damage was done to the engine life? The Quick oil change place is insisting I take my car to the dealer to diagnose any damage (which is why I ask about consequence to the life of the engine). Problem is, in order to diagnose any damage the dealer/service center has to disassemble the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Oil Change district manager said they would &quot;make it right&quot;, so I'm trying to decide whether to have a new engine in the car, or get another car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the consequences of running an engine, even a short distance without any oil in the tank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21833" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T17:46:52.160" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:13:06.537" Title="Garage tech drained oil and forgot to refill. I drove off - what damage could this have caused?" Tags="|oil-change|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35527" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:56:28.383" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally dropped all the oil and coolant from a Rover K-series engine (in a scrap car) and the engine took a good twenty minutes of very hard abuse (redlining / rev limiter / dumping the clutch in 1st) before expiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it may have cause a significant amount of wear which may not show itself for several thousand miles.  If the car was driven off the garage forecourt and stopped because the oil light / buzzer came on then you may get away with it.  If the car was driven some distance, there may be any number of problems waiting to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally have them record the incident on paper so that, in the event of future premature failure, you have recourse to claim against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final piece of advice is; don't use that workshop ever again.  They clearly have a massive hole in their quality control procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:56:28.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35522" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:58:37.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see the need to drill holes here, as you can get an equivalent effect by keeping the butterfly valve partially open at idle. That's how it's usually done on cars like the C5 Corvette, Gallardo and F10 M5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The added benefit of this is you can adjust the amount of opening as much as you need during the course of testing. Once you're happy with the minimum angle, locking it in with a physical stop on the cable should be quite easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why measure twice, cut once when there is no need to cut at all? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:58:37.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="527" CreationDate="2016-08-23T15:07:45.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On mine, a 2012 Honda Jazz Hybrid, the color code in on a metal plate on the passenger side central column (the &quot;B pillar&quot; I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZbLf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZbLf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Color Code Plate on Honda Jazz&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21834" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T15:42:24.977" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T15:42:24.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35507" CreationDate="2016-08-23T15:30:49.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swap your injectors on cylinder 1 with another cylinder. That will tell you whether the injector is dead/clogged or if it is the wiring going to the injector. Typically it's not too bad to remove an injector on these engines, certainly DIYable. If cylinder #1 starts firing with the injector from the other cylinder, you know you don't have a wiring issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great work getting this far on the diagnosis!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T15:30:49.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35558" CreationDate="2016-08-23T17:03:41.433" Score="5" ViewCount="5229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a check engine light with code P0456 (Evaporative Emissions System - Small leak detected). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the gas cap and cleared the code, but the CEL came back after couple of days. Next step is to take it to a mechanic and have them hook up a smoke machine to find the leak, but this is going to cost me. My next emission test in in about a year. Can I keep driving the car for while(1 year) as I have not noticed any decrease in performance or fuel economy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this make the &quot;leak&quot; worse or damage any other components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car: 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2.0L Automatic 225,000Kms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T23:27:25.937" LastActivityDate="2020-03-17T22:35:57.657" Title="Can I keep driving with P0456?" Tags="|leak|mitsubishi|evap|lancer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35327" CreationDate="2016-08-23T17:22:38.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vibration after new tires are installed is not an uncommon problem, and can usually be traced back to improperly weighted wheels or poor alignment. Improperly placed wheel weights would cause a vibration that increased in severity with speed, while vibration from an alignment issue could happen under any number of conditions depending on vehicle condition, suspension geometry, what is out of alignment (Left vs right, front vs rear, toe/camber/caster angles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your even rarer case, the vibration during braking only was probably caused by the wheel weights contacting the outside of your brakes as pointed out in your picture. As you suspected, this may have prevented the wheels from seating properly on the hubs. Why it only vibrated under braking is beyond me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest solutions would be to find lower profile wheel weights, or install wheel spacers to move the wheels further away from the brakes. From your picture, a simple slide-on 5 or 10mm Aluminum spacer would probably do the trick, though if you go any wider I would recommend hub-centric spacers with separate lug bolts already installed, such as the ones pictured below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbNzS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbNzS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a personal note: I purchased two sets of 20mm spacers for my car (because it looks good) for ~70 USD, about half the price of the name brand spacers (H&amp;amp;R comes to mind). I ordered H&amp;amp;R as well as the cheap ones, and found the 'cheap' brand weighed exactly the same (to the hundredth of a pound), and were concentric to ± .0005&quot; (I have access to expensive measuring equipment at my work c:).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T17:22:38.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35527" CreationDate="2016-08-23T17:35:21.317" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, document everything as accurately as possible. Write down every step and keep every single piece of correspondence with V-Oil and their employees. Write down exactly the steps you took from soon as you left the oil change place. I would try to get a confession of an employee or from the manager that they acknowledge they did not put oil in the car. If you can do that then you probably have a legal leg to stand on when it starts getting messy. If they will not, you may have a hard time, especially considering that you went to another shop &quot;right away&quot; and had them touch it. Get a complete an accurate statement from Mr Tire (the second shop), notarized or legally certified, of their assessment of the condition of your car when you brought it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your engine is likely damaged and needs either replaced or rebuilt. It will cost a lot of money either way. Your goal now is to get V-Oil to pay for it. They will likely resist. Hopefully the manager is upstanding and has the power to pay for those repairs, but plan for him not sticking to it. Getting a new engine or rebuilding it will be less costly than a whole new car, and V-oil isn't going to buy you a new car. You'll be out of your car for several days or weeks and need a rental. That will also be costly (call your insurance co and inquire). There is more of a legal and paperwork headache here than technical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately driving it to Mr Tire was a big mistake. You should have called V-oil on the phone right away and had someone drive &lt;em&gt;to you&lt;/em&gt; to verify what happened. The extra driving and Mr Tire work has likely muddied your claim of bad service or engine failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21841" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T17:35:21.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T17:48:48.773" Score="2" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Volvo S40 and it seems to have a strange brake issue that stops the brakes from compressing all the way until I slow to 40Kph. Once I do, I feel the brake pedal sink in and the brakes grab hold much more than they were before I slowed to 40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause? I have replaced all 4 pads and rotors (I had to, not because of this) and the issue remains, could it be the calipers? Vacuum? etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21842" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T17:48:48.773" Title="Why does my brakes not compress all the way until I slow to 40Kph" Tags="|brakes|volvo|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:38:31.320" Score="4" ViewCount="5301" Body="&lt;p&gt;My trolling motor instructions advise that a common ground MUST be established for connecting the trolling motor either to one 12 volt marine battery or to two 12 volt deep cycle marine batteries connected in &lt;strong&gt;parallel&lt;/strong&gt;. This is to prevent corrosion, electrolysis, battery deterioration, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if two 12 volt deep cycle marine batteries are connected in &lt;strong&gt;series&lt;/strong&gt;, to produce 24 volts of power, the instructions specifically say NOT to try and establish a common ground. Instead, they advise to just keep the trolling motor wiring and other component wiring separate on different sides of the boat to prevent electrical interference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an electrician or an engineer. I have only limited understanding of electrical wiring. I don't understand why a common ground is essential in the first instance and not advised at all in the second instance. Please explain in terms a layman can understand. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="David Dunn" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T19:35:21.440" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:48:58.733" Title="Why no common ground for two 12v deep cycle marine batteries connected in series?" Tags="|electrical|motors|ground|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35540" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:44:34.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you tried connecting a common ground to two batteries that are in series, you would be effectively shorting out one of the batteries. You need a common ground for two batteries in parallel by definition. In order for them to be in parallel, their grounds must be connected to each other (and to the - side of the motor) and their positives must be connected to each other (and to the + side of the motor). You would connect two batteries in parallel to supply more current, or to reduce wear on a single battery (or make it discharge more slowly). You would put batteries in series to supply a higher voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In layman's terms, don't try tying together the grounds of two batteries connected in series, because you'll be shorting out the first battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="DerStrom8" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T18:44:34.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35540" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:01:25.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that it's a bad use of the term &quot;common ground.&quot; In the 12 V example the trolling motor voltage is assumed to be the same as the rest of the boat, so it is safe to make a direct connection between the boat ground and the trolling motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 24 V scenario, with two batteries in series, I think the concern is that something could go wrong and 24 V could get connected to the 12 V system. This could damage components that are rated for 12 V. To avoid this they want you to isolate the two systems and maintain a separate ground for the trolling motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:01:25.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:11:09.123" Score="5" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Solstice says &quot;hi everyone.&quot; Moving on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some really rough starting over the past month or so. I hadn't had time to really look at it until a few days ago, when I noticed the downstream O2 sensor harness had been cut, I'm assuming by some kind of road debris, though I'm not sure how. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I replaced the sensor and harness connector (which had melted while hanging freely next to the turbo / exhaust manifold), and, lo and behold, my CEL disappeared and the car starts much more smoothly, though not perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other (possibly-related) problem is that, under WOT, the car hesitates to the  point where  it feels like a fuel cut. It's intermittent, but frequent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was changing the sensor, I noticed that the gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold had blown. There's about a 2mm space between the turbo flange and the manifold on one corner, and a piece of the gasket is sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ordered a new gasket, planning to install it this weekend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a large exhaust leak cause this sort of hesitation? It hesitates, surges, sounds really bad and I have to lift, then gradually accelerate to get it to stop. Not fun, a bit dangerous the first time it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth nothing that this just started a few days ago, before I changed the O2 sensor. I believe the car was running rich before that (makes sense as the ECU couldn't read anything from the downstream sensor), may have messed up the plugs. Too many things to check! Out comes the service manual, diagnostic section. :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update the 2nd&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unplugging the battery for half an hour re: @Paulster2's suggestion appears (so far) to have addressed the rough starting issue, but the weird hesitation at WOT is still happening. I haven't tried the tape yet. I did, however, notice that my AFR gauge is reading about 10.0-10.2 when it's happening, which is typical with this tune (though it seems a little excessive to me). That leaves air and spark. I'll check the plugs as they seem to be the most likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:53:58.987" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:53:58.987" Title="Solstice - Can an exhaust leak cause (really bad) hesitation?" Tags="|pontiac|turbocharger|solstice|hesitation|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35543" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:30:02.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, that's not what is generally meant by a &quot;boost leak&quot; – a boost leak is on the compressor side of the turbocharger, compressed air that should be going into the engine is leaking out before it gets there. What you have is an exhaust leak before the turbo charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't think your exhaust leak would cause the behavior you're describing (but it should still be fixed promptly). The reason I think this is because I would expect the leak to possibly limit the boost pressure that can be obtained, but not to cause it to fluctuate. Depending on the volume of the leak it might not have any impact at all – especially at WOT. I think you could confirm (or deny) this with a quick and dirty test with some tape. It wouldn't even have to be heat resistant tape, I think you'd be able to tell before the tape burned off. Just wrap the joint tightly with several layers of tape and take it for a drive. That would either rule out the leak as the cause of the problem or prove me wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:30:02.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35527" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:34:30.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, as far as running with out oil has way to many variables to come up with a definitive answer.  Factors such as how much wear or age wear on your engine provide for tolerance changes allowing more oil to fill those voids, this oil is never fully drained with an oil change.  Add in oil still remaining in the top end and oil passages will also have effects.  Then if you have been using higher quality oils or not determine the oils ability to provide for protection.  Oil viscosity, additives can make for better or worse protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fresh change with a high quality oil and testing and examination of the oil added by the second garage as well as having the filter material inspected for metal is the best you can do with out a full tear down.&#xA;No mater what some wear likely occurred, but how much can only be truly determined with a engine disassembly.  If you can not get any satisfaction from the oil change center then I would at least have the oil examined.&#xA;I myself would leave the tear down/rebuild as last resort if the engine fails or continues to show recurring check engine lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ECU code PO300 is an generic engine fault code for ignition failure, loss of oil pressure could have provided this code, not necessarily engine damage.  If you have it cleared or clear it yourself and it returns then it is a concern and needs more examination.  But if it stays cleared then in itself is not a concern.  If the rings and or valve guides have damage then you would possibly see blueish smoke out exhaust and in a short time the ECU would have codes related to the oxygen sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually only drove a 1/8 mile, have regular oil service, use good quality oil you could with luck drive the car for many miles as if it never happened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21846" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:34:30.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:05:04.607" Score="1" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Scania's new clutch is slipping but there is no smell at all. Was slipping on and off. Then she's slipping and then all of a sudden she is riding smoothly, but a few days ago she was slipping a lot and had no usable power.  I had the clutch and pressure plate removed, there's absolutely nothing wrong with it. May be you can suggest what the problem could be? This is puzzling me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21848" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T10:52:27.050" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T15:41:52.273" Title="Clutch slipping on Scania 420" Tags="|clutch|scania|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:21:40.023" Score="4" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2014 Lexus IS350 reminds the driver that &quot;injector maintenance&quot; is required every 10,000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this advisory annoyance, as far I can tell there is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; difference in drivability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://n48qxq-ch3301.files.1drv.com/y3mkAoEjFxFtZVhzwG-0WbTohBd6u-MHMQOywsNgFZ2eIR2J9UDmWLXH4JsD5eEXu_dyjkIminVapAkonkT5KEt8S6E26jPCcth1b8YtJSLvWnWbqfixYsBhyrHjIAZWP5R_LEjPZKQTIvGNXID2xpoRT0aUCAWk6me58LtUkdiy3E?width=660&amp;amp;height=371&amp;amp;cropmode=none&quot; width=&quot;660&quot; height=&quot;371&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is a case of Lexus being over-protective. The engine utilizes gasoline-direct injection, so I imagine that this message relates more to the high-pressure direct injectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What periodic maintenance do these direct fuel injectors need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it out of the realm of a DIY-er to perform this maintenance? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T20:37:27.857" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:24:53.770" Title="What sort of maintenance do GDI injectors need?" Tags="|lexus|fuel-injectors|gasoline-direct-injection|is350|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35551" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:51:48.027" Score="3" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a low-mileage '99 4runner, with a manual transmission and part-time 4wd.  From the beginning, I've noticed a whine in gears 1-3, that increases in pitch when I'm accelerating.  This whine is most pronounced in 1st gear; about the same in 2nd gear, possibly quieter in 3rd gear, and undetectable in 4th and 5th (comparisons all done at about 1500 engine RPMs, while moving.)  The whine is also present while the transmission is in neutral, unless I've got the clutch pedal pushed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this vehicle wasn't 4wd, I'd be pretty certain that the source of the whine was the transmission (which, if I'm not mistaken, is a Toyota R150F.)  But as I'm about to describe, the transfer case is muddying those waters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I hear the whine in H2, H4, and L4. They all sound pretty much the same, and the whine ramps down to nothing pretty quickly after I depress the clutch pedal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whine becomes less loud in t-case neutral.  And when I press in the clutch pedal, &lt;em&gt;the whine takes about 2-3 times longer to ramp down to nothing than it did for H2/H4/L4.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last bullet above really surprised me.  If the transmission is in neutral, then my expectation would be that the transmission's output shaft would be stationary, and certainly not driving anything in the transfer case!  But I have confirmed that components in the t-case are spinning when the transmission is in neutral: if I attempt to shift the t-case from N to L4 when the clutch pedal is up, the t-case gears will grind.  I have to wait for the whine to coast away to nothing before I can enter L4 from N.  &lt;em&gt;With the transmission in neutral and the car stationary.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My head asplode!   But, aside from the whine, the vehicle performs wonderfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that this isn't just normal operating behavior for this equipment-- and I don't know that-- &lt;strong&gt;what other tests can I perform to isolate the cause?&lt;/strong&gt;  (I'd like to avoid removing the transmission, for example, if the problem is all in the transfer case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do transmission specialists track this sort of thing down, before tearing vehicles apart?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to root-cause this problem before I talk to a transmission shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.  I've done some googling for this issue, and I have found some discussions.  But they don't really end satisfactorily.  Just suggestions w/ no follow-up (such as &quot;try replacing your gear oil with synthetic&quot;), or that the vehicle is operating as designed (&quot;It's supposed to sound like a school bus&quot;.)   Since this vehicle was already 17 years old by the time I bought it (but less than 60k miles,)  I don't really have any mint-in-box reference to compare it to, as far as the operating-as-designed claim is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="12281" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T22:15:31.267" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T22:24:55.877" Title="How to isolate whining noise in 4wd power train?" Tags="|transmission|transfer-case|diagnose|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35550" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:03:05.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get the whine with the main box in neutral, then the noise must be coming from the main box because the transfer box will not be turning.  If you put the transfer box in neutral and the main box in gear, then there will be more momentum in the gears to keep the main box spinning longer when you press the clutch, hence the whine takes longer to fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the main box oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:03:05.670" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:21:11.050" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I went out to my 2005 Pontiac Vibe and the keyless fob wasn't working at all (none of the buttons and my wife's wasn't working either so it's not the battery of the fob) and the radio unit was completely dead.  The cigarette lighter works and I think that the outlet works.  The lights on the underside of the front mirror are also not working but I haven't used them in a while to know if it happened earlier.  Everything else seems to be working fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what the issue is and how to fix it?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21851" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:21:11.050" Title="Keyless fob and radio dead on Pontiac Vibe 2005" Tags="|audio|pontiac|keyless-entry|fob|vibe|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35549" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:27:05.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the IS350 actually utilizes both port and direct injection. This results in the IS350 having fewer carbon build-up problems than the IS250, which exclusively uses direct injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dealer/shop procedure for this maintenance is, at best, to inspect the valves for build up. If you want to maintenance the vehicle as recommended by Lexus, take it to the dealer and have them inspect it and perform their mfg recommended work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, you would do better to simply run a can of injector cleaner through every 10,000 km. At 40,000-50,000 km  intervals you will still need to take to a shop for a cleaning. At that time, if the shop sees it necessary, they will sandblast the valves with an abrasive material like walnut shells to remove remaining carbon build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastEditorUserId="19401" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T14:24:53.770" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:24:53.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35540" CreationDate="2016-08-23T21:48:58.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The batteries with shared current in parallel at 12V have common V- (gnd) and common V+ , by definition of parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two 12 V batteries in series to a 24V trolling motor might have current surges with some voltage drop in the cables and act like antenna for RF noise and disturb main battery by conducted noise, such as an AM radio or ultrasonic sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISolation on either side reduces induction current noise from motor commutation noise,again just useful for radios and maybe Ultrasonic transducers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common ground might not hurt anything if cable if battery routing is far apart, but to avoid potential aggregation, this is the preferred solution.  There is also no need to share a common ground for a trolling motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21854" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T21:48:58.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T23:12:01.593" Score="3" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;what would cause my kia's engine temperature to start fluctuating. it never gets hot but it will rise 2 bars on the temp gage and when it rises to the second bar over where it normally reads my ac will quit blowing cold air. if I turn the car off and turn it back on it will start blowing cold air again but only for a few seconds if the temperature doesn't start to go down. if the temperature goes down below that that second bar it will keep blowing cold air. the temperature will go back to its normal reading then back up then back down and like I said it never gets over 2 bars higher than normal. I hope I've explained my problem to where it makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21855" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T23:37:13.357" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T20:24:53.877" Title="2007 Kia Spectra engine temperature fluctuating" Tags="|engine|ac|cooling-system|kia|spectra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35534" CreationDate="2016-08-23T23:33:06.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The code P0456 indicate a leak that is not so severe, compared to a P0455. Since you already replaced the fuel cap, so the problem can be in many other parts of the fuel system that can be very painful to diagnose. It should be ok to drive like that, but keep an eye to see if the code is not &quot;promoted&quot; to P0455 or if the leak is noticeable (visually or by smell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T23:33:06.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24479" CreationDate="2016-08-24T00:15:18.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perfect for a disco blender&lt;/strong&gt; -- get LEDs typically described like &lt;em&gt;MR16 base 12V color changing LED bulb with remote control&lt;/em&gt;.  Amazon has them in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/ChiChinLighting-Changing-controlled-wireless-controller/dp/B00Y6FZJ88/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;handy 4-pack&lt;/a&gt;.  The fish are gonna love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16546" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T00:15:18.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24479" CreationDate="2016-08-24T02:02:33.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Older Jeep transfer cases have a cover on the rear side of them, once the cover is removed a gear driven unit called a PTO (power take off) can be installed.  This PTO can be used to drive a motor driven electrical generator unit or a hydraulic pump.  If a hydraulic pump is installed it can then have hoses connected to a hydraulic motor driving a electric generator.  Your generator would then connect electrically to a AC power panel with electrical outlets.  You can then plug in your blender.  A wall wart/wall transformer can drive your LED light string (easy to use Christmas lights).&#xA;Last to power a home will be limited by engine size with gearing and generator size.  You will be hard pressed to make 250amps at standard 220volt home wiring.  But you should easily make 35-50amp at 220volt to power a RV style power connector.  Again a wired outlet, heaby RV cord, and a transfer switch would supply the home.  You will not get AC, electric heat, electric water heater or electric stove in home as to much load (at least if used with other loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T02:02:33.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35557" CreationDate="2016-08-24T02:10:45.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the temperature getting higher only when it is warm out or is it a constant problem the just started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With it being several years old can you advise as to last time your had the cooling system flushed and new antifreeze added.  The cooling system clogs with age and can reduce the effectiveness causing a rise in operating temperature.  Some engines have a thermal switch to stop the AC system to prevent overheating the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another area could be the thermostat is starting to fail and not opening proper when temperature gets to the operating zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have your system flushed, coolant changed and pressure tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T02:10:45.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35546" CreationDate="2016-08-24T02:18:04.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When clutch was checked was the throw-out bearing checked and replaced?&#xA;It is usually a low cost item and best replaced at the same time as the clutch.  While inspection of that part may look acceptable and it may seem to slip back and forth on the guide it is possible that it binds under load when clutch depressed and doe not full slide back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T10:51:47.750" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T10:51:47.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28154" CreationDate="2016-08-24T02:39:19.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hate to say it but the seal is bad and needs replaced.  From video looks like it was not replaced 3K ago (should have been part of hub service).&#xA;When hub was replaced the outer driven shaft retainer was not proper installed or not installed (or some thing related to that). This is cause for the excessive play on that shaft and hence the noise.  Does that wheel drive proper in 4 wheel drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T02:39:19.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T06:20:41.760" Score="3" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is just for curiosity... Was wondering would it be possible to create an entirely mechanical motorcycle (no electricity used anywhere)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would have to have; no spark plugs (diesel), no headlights/taillights, mechanical gauges, mechanical fuel pump, carburetor, mechanical throttle cable, push starting only (not sure this would work with diesel) etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something seems appealing about the idea... An entirely mechanical motorcycle, metal/rubber and liquid fuel, in an electronic filled world. A true machine, breathing and making fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway does it seem possible in theory and what do you think of the idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T14:13:47.767" Title="Entirely mechanical motorcycle?" Tags="|motorcycle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T07:33:23.693" Score="2" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car keeps running hot after about 15 mins.  The coolant in the reservoir tank gets boiling hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I flushed the cooling system until clear water came out bottom radiator hose.  I changed the water pump, thermostat, reservoir, &amp;amp; cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?  How do I diagnose it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 12/9/2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok i changed all of the gaskets including head gaskets. Its still overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21867" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T15:54:29.077" LastActivityDate="2022-03-25T22:33:43.750" Title="Why is my 1996 Impala running hot &amp; the coolant in reservoir tank is boiling hot?" Tags="|chevrolet|coolant|overheating|impala|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35580" CreationDate="2016-08-24T07:52:27.990" Score="1" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a car from my dad a couple of months ago. This week, I noticed that one of the headlight bulbs is flickering and the bulb sensor shows up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure what type of bulb should I buy. I'm no expert in terms of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a recent question about the car that we have. It's a BMW 320i 2006 with &quot;M&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25670/whats-the-difference-between-bmw-320i-se-and-non-se&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the difference between BMW 320i SE and Non SE?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14830" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:42:49.273" Title="What model of bulb should I buy for BMW 320i 2006?" Tags="|bmw|bulbs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35578" CreationDate="2016-08-24T07:56:37.790" Score="10" ViewCount="112693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just scanned my vehicle for the first time to check out the code for a Check Engine Light. I grew curious if these fault codes get logged somewhere with a date and time stamp of some kind at the time they were thrown. I'm imagining some design similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb726966.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Event Log&lt;/a&gt; used in computer operating systems but I may be totally mistaken on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly is the design around these fault codes as far as how they're recorded. One obvious aspect of the design is the use of unique codes specific to some particular problem. Is that the full story with a fault, are there any other metadata surrounding a fault instance that can be looked up? How do fault histories work in vehicles? Are histories even recorded or are faults simply a binary thing, either on currently or off currently regardless of whether they were ever on at any point in the vehicle's life. I know you can clear codes using scanner tools, is this to suggest that faults would stay flagged on a system in perpetuity until you manually clear them? This would lead me to believe that the check engine light would remain illuminated even after repairing the root cause of a fault. Is this accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T18:19:40.633" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T14:20:06.227" Title="Do fault codes get recorded with a time stamp into a log with a history of DTCs?" Tags="|obd-ii|dtc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35527" CreationDate="2016-08-24T08:50:47.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cylinder walls can be inspected by a borescope, but the rings, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, valvetrain, timing chain, and oil pump cannot be. Damage to any one of those components will shorten the lifetime of your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would accept nothing short of a new engine, or a &lt;strong&gt;dealer&lt;/strong&gt; rebuild. Inspection can only &lt;strong&gt;confirm&lt;/strong&gt; damage. Inspection can not &lt;strong&gt;rule out&lt;/strong&gt; damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T08:50:47.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35573" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-24T09:12:03.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A motor vehicle service is a set of maintenance procedures carried out, usually by an appointed garage, at either set time intervals (usually 6 months or a year), or after the vehicle has travelled a certain distance since it's last service (varies by car type and model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A motor service is not required by law, although certain standards are required, for example in the UK, the MOT Test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A service checks several key components of a car such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more complete list can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Service_(motor_vehicle)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T13:03:11.647" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T13:03:11.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35574" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-24T09:12:03.290" Score="0" Body="A motor vehicle service is a set of maintenance procedures carried out either at set time intervals or after the vehicle has travelled a certain distance since it's last service." OwnerUserId="10099" LastEditorUserId="10099" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T15:23:45.913" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:23:45.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T09:36:19.173" Score="3" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start my car the revs shoot up to over 2k and then drop back down causing the car to stall. If I keep my foot gently on the gas I can keep the revs up and prevent the stall from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I get into 1st and start driving the problem disappears. However if I don't do this as soon as I let my foot of the gas, the revs will drop again and cause a stall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is an 03 Honda Civic which is fuel injected (I thought this could be the problem). Has anyone come across anything similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21869" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T13:01:39.780" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T13:33:56.497" Title="Engine reving up and then stalling when first starting" Tags="|engine|honda|starting|civic|stall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35575" CreationDate="2016-08-24T09:56:36.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one a similar problem. The contacts of temperature sensor plug where corroded, plugging the sensor in/out several times solved the issue. I would suggest you to clean the contacts of the sensor. If that does not correct the issue: Check the resistance of the temperature sensor with a digital multimeter and report the values here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: On cold start the ecu tries to correct the injection amount based on engine temperature. Should the temperature sensor report overly low temperatures values the injection amount would be too high, resulting in a high revving engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T10:49:08.520" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:49:08.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35571" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:11:28.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of fault codes; single trip and two trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single trip fault code is generally a major failure like a severe misfire. This will illuminate the check engine light immediately upon detection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two trip fault code has to be verified on two trips. The first trip sets a pending code without illuminating the light. If the fault is detected again the light will illuminate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically when a hard fault (light illuminated) passes the test two consecutive times the light will go out. The code is then downgraded to pending from hard fault. This is stipulated by if the testing is still run with a hard fault. There are some instances where testing is suspended with a hard fault and then clearing the light with a scan tool is the only way to shut off the light. A pending code will disappear if the test passes 60 consecutive drive cycles.(starting and shutting the car off 60 times does not constitute a drive cycle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a code is stored freeze frame data is stored with it. Freeze frame data (FFD) is a snap shot of the most common data when the fault was detected. The problem with it is the values stored differ by manufacturer and by year of vehicle. The values may include but are not limited to; coolant temp, rpm, air temp, short term fuel trim, long term fuel trip, loop status, how long into a drive cycle the fault is set, how many drive cycles have gone by since the fault was set.... the list goes on and on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older vehicles could only store a single frame of FFD and the more severe fault code took priority. Newer vehicle can store multiple FFD frames. While you may be able to figure out in what order the codes occurred there is no proverbial time stamp like in an event logger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:11:28.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35571" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:13:04.033" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the implementation of OBD2.  What my 1997 Subaru logs (virtually nothing) compared to a 2015 Chevy Cruise are entirely different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in most cases, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is logged with a &lt;em&gt;freeze frame&lt;/em&gt;, which is a complete store of all Parameter ID's (PIDS).  These parameters cover everything from RPM, vehicle speed, O2 sensor data, mass airflow data, long and short term fuel trims, ignition advance, intake and coolant temperature, and perhaps dozens more.  These are accessed via OBD2 Mode 2.  The simple &quot;Pxxxx&quot; DTC faults are accessed via OBD2 Mode 3, which is often the extent that simple consumer scan tools are able to display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On more sophisticated scan tools, Mode 2 &quot;freeze frame&quot; data can be displayed, which is invaluable data as it reveals the exact running condition at the very instant the DTC code was set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;history&lt;/em&gt; of such codes again varies with the implementation of OBD2, and quite likely how new the vehicle.  On my 1997 Subaru, data is limited -- given that OBD2 wasn't a mandate until the 1996 model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all vehicles have two categories of DTC:  &quot;Pending&quot;, which is a detected fault, but doesn't set the Check Engine Light (CEL, SES) until the condition is detected again a certain number of times.  (This is accessed through OBD2 Mode 7.) The number of &quot;drive cycles&quot; required to promote a &quot;pending&quot; to a CEL depends on the fault, the implementation, and the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other category of DTC is &quot;stored&quot; or &quot;logged&quot;.  These are true fault codes that have been promoted from &quot;pending&quot; status to a real-deal fault code, and they by OBD2 definition &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; set the CEL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, some Engine Control Units/Modules (ECU/ECM) have the capability of logging a few or dozens of &quot;historical&quot; fault codes, regardless if they have been repaired and/or cleared.  This provides background to an astute technician, even when there is no current &lt;em&gt;pending&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;logged&lt;/em&gt; DTC faults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DTC codes do NOT have to be cleared &quot;manually&quot;.  If the condition that caused the fault is repaired, or simply no longer occurring (P0420 catalyst efficiency a classic example) the code will &quot;clear itself&quot; so to speak after a certain number of drive cycles without the fault reoccurring.  The number of drive cycles required to clear an active CEL DTC depends on the fault and software implementation.  In most cases, however, a technician clears these codes after a valid repair to assure the customer that the repair is complete.  But we don't HAVE to; it's a courtesy.  The ECU/ECM constantly monitors the PID and emission conditions, and will eventually relent, given enough &quot;clean&quot; drive cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, there is a category of DTC that cause a &lt;em&gt;FLASHING&lt;/em&gt; CEL.  These differ dramatically from the &quot;solid on&quot; CEL, in that if it comes on and stays on, it's an indication that something is wrong, and the driver should seek service at a convenient opportunity.  However, a &lt;em&gt;FLASHING&lt;/em&gt; CEL indicates something severely wrong that could cause vehicle damage.  Usually, this is indication of an overly rich condition, usually caused by severe ignition faults or fuel injection that if left alone could damage an expensive catalytic converter.  These &quot;flashing&quot; check engine lights should be addressed immediately -- some OEMs suggesting pull the vehicle over and have it towed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further complicate this process, clearing a CEL gets rid of the fault code from the &quot;active&quot; category, but like your computer analogy, it's an ALT_CTRL-DEL.  It completely resets the ECU/ECM, and clears out what is referred to as the &quot;monitors&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The monitors are a whole plethora of tests which run either continuously, or in most cases when certain PID (temperature, engine load, fuel level, drive cycle) criteria are met.  (This is what makes it particularly difficult to pass evaporative emission system monitors; the criteria are exact and even depend on how much fuel in in the tank.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a certain number of successful drive cycles, obeying all the requisite criteria, to &quot;pass&quot; these monitor tests.  At this point the vehicle can pass an OBD2 emissions inspection -- when all monitors have passed.  (In New York, vehicles produced prior to 2001 can have two incomplete monitor tests, 2001 and newer are allowed one, and it may be that recent vehicles are allowed &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; incomplete.  This is just trivia.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upshot is that while a vehicle may have had proper repairs and the fault codes cleared, this does NOT mean it will pass an OBD2 emissions inspection.  This prevents the shadetree technique of disconnecting the battery and taking it immediately to inspection.  The vehicle must complete the requisite number of drive cycles with all (or most) criteria met in order to get the passing grade.  While a so-called &quot;not ready&quot; vehicle doesn't &lt;em&gt;fail&lt;/em&gt; emissions testing, it also doesn't pass.  After the ALT-CTRL-DEL ECU/ECM lobotomy, the vehicle settles in and doesn't become &quot;ready&quot; for inspection until it proves to itself that all monitors are go, and the vehicle is running clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:13:04.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35575" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:22:28.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your engine have an Idle speed control valve? These are usually driven by a solenoid, they can get full of carbon causing a fully open fully closed scenario as your describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21872" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:22:28.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35570" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:42:49.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm roughly guessing this is an H7 bulb for low beam.  I prefer Osram/Sylvania, but obviously there are others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMW are the mostest analist of the bunch (I used to work for BMW NA), so there are quite the variety of variations of bulbs that may be suitable.  North American vehicles are limited in wattage by law, but Euro spec bulbs may have much higher output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the bulb and check the numbers on the flange.  I'm betting H7.  However, a &quot;flickering&quot; bulb might more likely be a corroded or loose socket connection than an actual bulb failure.  But a marginal filament connection could cause the same condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiggle wiggle - if that helps it's probably not the bulb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:42:49.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35568" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:49:21.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it's quite possible.  But I don't think the Amish ever built motorcycles.  I had a &quot;Sundowner&quot; mini-bike that was quite close, but still employed a magneto on what was basically a pull-start Tecumseh lawn mower engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a small diesel is going to be difficult to start manually without some electron flow somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T10:49:21.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35585" CreationDate="2016-08-24T10:57:56.137" Score="4" ViewCount="9389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a fairly stupid thing and drove my car with half of the coolant removed from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished changing the timing belt on my 1998 Toyota Corolla (1.3 4E-FE engine), and I started it a month ago and completed it the other day. The reason being I hurt my knee so couldn't physically get under the car. I did intend to replace the water pump before I hurt my knee, and I drained the coolant from the radiator in preparation for it. I didn't turn the car on or flush the system in order to drain it completely, so I know some coolant was still in the engine and reserve tank. A month later, I finished the job. I was preoccupied with a squeal from the engine, so once I diagnosed that issue I decided to take it for a spin around the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive consisted of a 30mph stretch of road, followed by a 50mph stretch, and then 30mph. I traveled for no more than 5 or 10 minutes. The moment I saw the needle hit H on the dashboard I turned on the heater and threw it to maximum so it blew hot air in to the cabin away from the engine until I got home. I did notice that the air wasn't exactly hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I parked up and turned the engine off. With the engine off I could hear bubbling, like a kettle was boiling. I lifted the bonnet up and left it for a few hours after it. I didn't open the radiator in fear of whatever liquid was there would scald me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I filled the radiator with 50/50 mix of red coolant (which is what should work on my car). Once the radiator was full I turned the engine on, let it get to temperature and the liquid went down and I topped it up until it wouldn't take any more liquid. The coolant I had came in a 5L bottle, and about half of it went in to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without driving the car which I can't do at the moment until I get it booked in for an MOT as it expired the day before Yesterday, with what I've described, what sort of damage could I have done to my engine, and what can I do as a pre-emptive measure to fix any damage before it damages anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Thought it would be worth updating this question after driving the car for some time after this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I drove it without coolant, there has been no noticeable problems with the engine. There is no water in the oil and no mayonaise gunk under the oil cap. I have dodged a bullet, and the car is going from strength to strength!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17232" LastEditorUserId="17232" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T09:25:54.133" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T19:01:54.517" Title="Drove a car for 5 minutes with half of its coolant missing, have I killed it?" Tags="|coolant|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T11:32:05.483" Score="4" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 here.  This morning as I was driving to work I noticed my brakes were a little unresponsive.  I recently checked the pads/rotors and they are in good shape.  When I push the pedal down, it seems like I can push it further than usual.  I tested it going about ~35-40 and 'slammed' on my brakes the way I would if a deer were to dart out in front of me, and stoppage was pretty much as expected.  However, this caused the &quot;Service Brakes&quot; to turn on and the cars warning system to start beeping at me.  When I plugged in a code reader, it didn't detect anything, the error has gone away, and I didn't notice the same issues with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas here?  Possibly some air here, maybe an issue with the brake booster.  My first idea would be to replace the lines, as I understand it is possible that even if I don't have an external leak it is possible that there is a leak in one of the inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19703" LastEditorUserId="11409" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T18:49:40.390" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T07:31:33.847" Title="What reasons for a Brake pedal that depresses slowly" Tags="|brakes|chevrolet|tahoe|brake-booster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35527" CreationDate="2016-08-24T12:13:06.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Engines can take damage and run for a substantial time afterwards. How long will depend on the type of damage and the components damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cars use plain bearings which rely on oil pressure to work. With little or no oil pressure they will be rapidly damaged. A tiny amount of damage will get progressively worse (especially on the big end bearings). Not really possible to check to damage without stripping the engine, in which case most of the work required to replace them has already been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much damage is difficult to tell. If you drive off hard, up hill (so a large load on the engine) then it would probably cause terminal damage within seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order I would suggest the components likely to be damaged:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big end bearings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankshaft. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cam bearings (which are probably an integral part of the engine rather than replaceable). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydraulic tappets / cam followers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pistons / bores &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would no need to go far down this list to make the engine a financial write off at new main dealer prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, was the car due an oil change? Does the car utilise an initial oil specified to aid running in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:13:06.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35582" CreationDate="2016-08-24T12:58:16.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say what kind of damage has been done at this point. Any time a vehicle is allowed to overheat, it places wear on the engine components that wouldn't normally be experienced at the designed operating temperature. Having driven only 5 to 10 minutes you probably didn't destroy the engine. How long was the needle on hot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point there's not much to be done in ways of preemptive measures. The damage that was done is done. Overheating engines can warp heads and ruin head gaskets allowing coolant into places in the engine that you really don't want it to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say start the car up, allow it to reach operating temperature, and then heavily monitor the temperature and coolant levels from there. If the car starts overheating again then instantly shut it off. If coolant seems like it's being used rapidly by the engine or it continues to overheat then you've probably damaged the engine. If you wanted to get even more in-depth, you could pressure test your cooling system. There are plenty of resources online to guide you through the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other end, if the engine seems to operate fine and doesn't overheat at all then you can count yourself lucky and continue on your way. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:58:16.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35568" CreationDate="2016-08-24T13:54:14.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very possible. Most pre-Disco bikes were 100% mechanical plus bare-minimum electrical for street-legal reasons like brake lights. Electrical accessories like a starter came way before EFI systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;mechanical gauges, mechanical fuel pump, carburetor, mechanical throttle cable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check, check and check. My 2006 bike worked like that. My 2013 bike still has a mechanical throttle cable. Traditional-style bikes (and some scooters) with the fuel tank in the &quot;normal&quot; place and a carb don't have fuel pumps. Gravity handles fuel delivery to the carb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;push starting only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have apparently forgotten (or are too young to know about) kick starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding ignition, you do not need an electrical system for spark plugs. You need a magneto. Self-contained gizmo that generates the necessary energy for the spark. Yes, it's &quot;electrical&quot; but it's very simple and single purpose - it doesn't run on 12V. Modern light aircraft still use magnetos for ignition as they are extremely reliable - all they need is engine rotation. This minor exception eliminates the considerable difficulty of a small-displacement diesel engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems what you want is a not-too-new Harley minus the headlight. Drive in daytime, stick your arm out to signal turns and it might even be licensable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21875" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T13:54:14.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35594" CreationDate="2016-08-24T13:55:16.013" Score="1" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a first generation Yamaha R1 racing bike. The bike isn't worth much money, especially not in it's current condition. So instead of trying to sell the bike, I would rather keep it with a plan to rebuild and it at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I'm planning to store a motorcycle for several year (I would guess somewhere between 2-5 years) what would be the best way to do that. The engine is in need of a rebuild anyway, so the engine will be rebuilt before the bike is used again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing it's a good idea to remove the battery? Do I need to drain the tank and engine oil? Any other special needs for the carbs or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Willem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6454" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T17:33:03.123" Title="Long Term Motorcycle Storage" Tags="|engine|motorcycle|oil|long-term-storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35568" CreationDate="2016-08-24T14:13:47.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your jurisdiction you need electrical driven headlights, turn signals and horns (Myself imaging a steam horn, lol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine itself could be a small, all-mechanical diesel. I found out that there still exist some old engines (Hatz L1, Deutz MAH 914 and others) but they all are too heavy (200-300 Kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess when you go strictly non-electrical it will be quite a challenge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T14:13:47.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T15:05:12.230" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2002 Accord EX 2.3L is officially an old age car; I don't fix everything that goes wrong any more, but the list of things that I haven't fixed now has some annoying things on it that might be related to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drinks oil at the rate of 4 quarts/500-1000 miles.  (Bad rings, probably, no leaks, lots of smoke when I accelerate while it's cold.  Oil changes have been too sparse, probably.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have to &quot;Use the JUJU&quot; to get the key to turn from the off position.  If I push in as I try to turn the key, it won't turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(maybe related to 1 or 2) I quite often have problems starting it, I hear a light click, but either there is no other sound, or a slight cranking.  My leading theory is both key switch and starter or excessive engine friction.  I have to turn the switch to ACC or OFF and back to start to get it to start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My heater/AC blower for the interior is clicky (a tick, once a revolution, it sounds like).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High speed on that blower is sometimes half speed/ three quarters speed, or even not running at all, but if it's not running, it may click on.  Otherwise, the speed that shows up when I start the car is consistent throughout the car ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been an avid listener to NPR's &quot;Car Talk&quot;, (RIP Tom, thanks for the laughs) so I have theories, but it's only in the percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that a leading candidate is bad key switch assembly, but does that fix all four of the last ones, or do I have a severe engine friction issue, starter, or debris in the blower too?  (Haven't gotten into the blower yet...  on the first attempt I couldn't find the right driver for the screw, maybe torx, but it looked philipsy.)  How many problems do I have in this list?  I'm in the &quot;save for the next car&quot; mode, since a different model would suit my needs better at this point, so I want to fix what I can myself and fix only things that are annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, this is the classic old fussy car question, if it lasts a year, I'd be OK, if it lasts two, I'd be quite happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (bottom line)&#xA;Do I have this diagnosed properly?  80% chance it's just an old engine plus a bad key switch which is the only thing causing the other 3 operational issues.  Also do any of my alternate theories hold water?  Could debris in the blower cause it to act so erratically, is there any such thing as &quot;excessive friction&quot; in the engine that prevents the starter from turning the engine over?  How hard is it to replace that switch in an accord?  (Wear a helmet, yes yes, check.  hah.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21876" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T15:57:00.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:57:56.493" Title="Old age car, with inter-related issues?" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|heater-blower|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35589" CreationDate="2016-08-24T15:57:56.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number 1; Oil consumption. That's a lot of oil. Start looking for a new vehicle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 and 3 are related. It could be a worn key; call the dealer and ask them to cut a new key (or try a spare key if you have one). If it's the switch, it's unlikely that you'll get one from a junkyard with a matching key. Talk to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 and 5 are related. Replace the ventilation controls with one from a junkyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a replacement engine cost-effectively, I'd suggest living with the problems until you can get a new car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:57:56.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35524" CreationDate="2016-08-24T16:40:17.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing octanes in an upward-direction is fine.  But, not completely tightening the gas cap could cause that.   If you want to know exactly why the CEL came on, just take the vehicle to a retail car-parts store, such as Autozone or NAPA.   Most of them will pull trouble codes for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(You mentioned gas cap above, but your wording in that sentence is confusing and so I'm not certain why you mentioned it.  If it was the gas cap, the CEL will eventually turn back off but it will take a little bit of driving.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T16:40:17.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13499" CreationDate="2016-08-24T17:28:13.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;on first look, the reference image you used has a trapezoid formed of the points AABB, but your version seems to have something like a perfect 4 bar..a rectangle or parallelogram..try working on the angles..the hinge points basically..&#xA;hope that helps..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21880" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T17:28:13.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35587" CreationDate="2016-08-24T17:33:03.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rebuilding the engine then that will simplify issue related to seals in the engine going bad.  But it is best to still put in all fresh oils into it for storage as oxides can form from old oil more then newer oils.&#xA;You should crank the engine over (not needed to start it) every 6-12 months while in storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the motorcycle up on blocks, old milk crate, or motorcycle stand under the frame keeping wheel off the ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your forks will need drained and refilled before put back in use.&#xA;Oil or grease the sprockets and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drain the fuel completely including the float bowl or completely fill the tank and add fuel storage conditioner.  The draining will likely result in carburetor gaskets and rubber parts to dry out needing complete rebuild.  I like to add something like Marvel Mystery Oil into drained tank and bowl to help prevent this (I have read some have used ATF for this purpose also).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave fuel in the tank keep it topped off and for certain add every year more fuel preservative.  I have stored a chain saw for five years with Stabil in it and fired it up a few minutes once every year.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again Mystery oil or ATF keeps caskets from shrinking and going bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T17:33:03.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35583" CreationDate="2016-08-24T17:57:08.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While having some one depress the brakes inspect each of the rubber flex hoses at the wheel corners.  Look for any sign of bulging.  Hoses age with repeated expansion and contraction form brakes being applied.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This eventually causes bulges in the inner hose part which requires extra fluid to make up for the extra space and hence a slow petal depression.&#xA;The Service Brake light and alarm relates to this as an expanding hose on one wheel during extreme hard stop would cause a shift in the pressure between sections, which would clear on pressure balance return.  IN your vehicle these clear with power (ignition) off and on, so not stored and readable unless read when active.&#xA;You might never see a leak until it is to late and the hose bursts.&#xA;If hoses are not the issue your next most likely suspect is the ABS motor pump or control circuitry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T17:57:08.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35460" CreationDate="2016-08-24T18:13:41.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what happened: the left brake caliper was seized, although not completely.  (I was asked to post the question first, and answer it later.  This all happened several months ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not realize that for quite a while.  The gas mileage was not great in town but the car was getting 40+ mpg on the freeway.  The problem became obvious when the car started making a screechy noise, which became loud quite quickly, at which point I brought it to the shop.  They found that the left caliper was almost stuck.  After replacement, all the other issues above resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense, retrospectively, that a brake issue could impact the hybrid battery (which in turn would impact the 12v battery), since the battery recovers some of the kinetic energy that the brakes dissipate.  But I did not foresee this, to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows more about this, please comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21791" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T18:13:41.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35478" CreationDate="2016-08-24T18:17:53.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently stumbled upon &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIRhyzDhqnE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; which shows that such a problem can be due to a low brake fluid level.  I went to check that, and it was low, although right above the “Min” level line.  I still went ahead and added more fluid.  Lo and behold, it worked, at least so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is surprising to me is that the brake level is low rather than high, even though the brake pads were changed.  Perhaps they bled part of the fluid at the shop to “make room” for the thicker new pads and then forgot to top it off?  Or perhaps there is a small leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21791" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T18:17:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T21:10:09.117" Score="2" ViewCount="5682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who has a recent Lexus with a rearview camera. She was curious if it was possible to run the camera while parked on the street or in a commercial parking lot and save the footage to a flash card or something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be possible? Do any rearview cameras support this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be easier to get a rearview dashcam type camera?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21884" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T21:21:55.927" Title="possible to record rearview camera footage while parked in a parking lot" Tags="|lexus|backup-camera|dashcam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35600" CreationDate="2016-08-24T21:21:55.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, this could easily be done as what's being displayed is just a video feed. You'd just need to leach off of the feed, which would then need to be provided to a recorder. That could be spinning disk, SSD, thumb drive, or flash card. That all depends on they type of recording device being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are systems out there which do this, but none which are manufacturer installed, as far as I know. The primary purpose of the backup camera is to be used when the vehicle is backing up. It isn't on at any other time. This seems logical at the outset. In order for it to work full time, you'd have to have the camera setup or changed to be able to handle the situation. OEM cameras aren't made to do that from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, in order for this to work, you'd need the camera on all the time. You'd need it to be recording all the time. That takes up a lot of memory space, depending on the resolution which you're recording at. There are also ways you can make it so it would only come on when there is motion sensed around the vehicle. This seems like a more attractive alternative, but you'd need some way to sense the motion. &quot;Always on&quot; systems would also be a constant power drain on the battery while the vehicle is shut off, so another something to think about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is doable, it would take some engineering to make happen. I'm sure there are systems on the market today which can provide such a convenience, but you'd have to do your own shopping to find one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T21:21:55.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T21:55:47.190" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my car back from local service where they changed the spark plugs. I drove back around 12 miles, it seemed ok. I drove my car 10 miles the next day and broke down because one of spark plugs blew out. It sounded like a someone shooting!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ring the garage but he said I saw my son tighten it up very well and not their fault. They claim it must be something wrong with Honda's manufacturing… I took it to another garage and after checking they said it happened because the spark plugs were not tight enough…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can/should I do? Should the mechanic take responsibility? What can be done to get my car running again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21885" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T22:53:16.373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T23:00:08.943" Title="Why 2010 Honda Civic1.4 spark plug fail and damaged coil and cap?" Tags="|sparkplugs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35602" CreationDate="2016-08-24T22:23:23.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much you can do but get it fixed. This happens sometimes with aluminum heads. The threads give way and the plug blows out of the head. The fix is to have a thread insert (commonly called a &quot;Helicoil&quot;) installed in the head. This can be done without head removal (I've done it personally), so shouldn't be an exorbitant cost to get it fixed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this was most likely caused by the action of removal and installation of the new plug, there is no way to prove the mechanic caused the issue. It's just something you'll have to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T22:23:23.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35606" CreationDate="2016-08-25T02:33:29.810" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptom - No rear brake lights. Left turn signals not working but blinker relay &quot;Sounds&quot; like only one way contact movement.&#xA;However - Right turn signal lights work fine and blinker relay &quot;sounds&quot; normal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosis so far:  Purchased new turn signal relay and fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the left rear running Lt/Turn indicator apart and tested the harness and the bulbs on an independent 12  volt source.  All tested fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With new equipment installed and through repeated testing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different fuse locations. Turn indicator and Brake/Hazards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pushing on brake pedal causes instant blowing of Brake/Hazards fuse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Key on, tuning on left turn signal blows turn signal fuse instantly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turning on emergency flashers causes instant blowing of Brake/Hazard fuse&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a transistor (3 Prong clip) in same harness and on same mount block as the signal relay so thinking this might be causing a direct short I disconnect the clip and run all the same tests with the same outcomes. (No solution or benefit) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this transistor is part of the lighting circuit or not but disconnecting it did not cause any solution to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I still have the right blinker but no left blinker, no emergency flashers and no brake lights.  If I put in fuses and press the left turn signal before I press the brake pedal, then not even the right turn signals work because the turn indicator fuse blows before the brake fuse blows and so there are no lights at all ( brake or turn indicator)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other lights in the vehicle seem to be working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other electrical circuits in the vehicle seem to be working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any ideas or knowledge about my dilemma?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16351" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T06:25:28.123" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T06:48:05.937" Title="94 pontiac transport - direct shorting of blinker / brake light circuit - fuses blowing" Tags="|electrical|pontiac|lights|turn-signal|tail-lights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2204" CreationDate="2016-08-25T02:54:02.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some stubborn nuts on my Range Rover. I always have trouble. Some nuts won't accept the the socket on the wrench as they have become deformed over time. I now use a ring spanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In frustration I tried using my jack. I place the ring spanner over the nut and used the jack to loosen the nuts enough to turn by hand. But this has failed to work on one nut. The pressures involved made me very nervous, so I backed off and have come on here for other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21886" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T20:10:50.393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T20:10:50.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35604" CreationDate="2016-08-25T06:48:05.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blowing a fuse is a pretty good indication of a short circuit. If you have a DMM (digital multi-meter) try some basic tests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the fuse out, read between the prongs of the fuse socket and ground (a nearby screw or other bare metal) with the meter on a DC Volts scale (20 VDC is common) to identify the hot side of the fuse. Once you know which side is hot,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switch to reading resistance (Ohms, the Ω symbol) and measure between the &quot;cold&quot; side of the fuse and ground. I would expect a reading of close to 0 (maybe a few tenths of a ohm) since you seem to have a short. With the bulb in, a normal reading would be about 28 ohms (assuming a 5 Watt bulb). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the reading is close 0 Ohms, try pulling out the bulb and looking closely at the socket. Corrosion in the socket might be the culprit. Check again with the bulb out. The reading should be infinite (no path for current to ground without the bulb). DMMs don't usually have away to say ∞ so they do it by a cryptic reading like 'OL' or an obviously &quot;wrong&quot; display.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the reading is not infinite you have a short (or another load connected to the circuit). You can use Ohm's law (I = V/R) to calculate the expected current, if it is more than the fuse rating. That's your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you just have to figure out what is wrong. A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus on the left hand tail light fixture since you already have one problem there. Check to see if there is any damage to the wiring near the fixture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a connector for trailer lights, check it for corrosion and/or damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think about recent work or &quot;events&quot; that might have damaged wiring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start tracing the wiring to (or from) the left tail lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T06:48:05.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T07:04:05.947" Score="1" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard from time to time that the same model cars or same manufacture will release cars that last less time in one country based on the habits of the market. e.g. In a market where people keep cars longer they will release cars that last longer and cost a bit more and in markets where people change car all the time they will release them cheaper but also less reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard this, is there any basis in reality? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any answer should be able to refer to examples of actual parts or process changes that change in different markets that would result in this outcome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17500" LastEditorUserId="17500" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T20:57:07.960" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:57:07.960" Title="Do car manufacturers change reliability of their cars by country?" Tags="|maintenance|reliability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-25T15:07:52.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35609" CreationDate="2016-08-25T07:25:13.340" Score="3" ViewCount="3951" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air conditioning has not worked on my 2003 Honda for about 1 year or so now. &#xA;The weird thing is that right around the time it was going to break, the vents on the left side of the car was not putting out cooled air, but the right side was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it eventually stopped working all together, I had a guy come over and charge up the freon using a kit that I bought online.  Right after he did it, when I turned on the AC, I can hear it got &quot;bzzzzz, psssssst, bzzzz, psssst...&quot;. I think it was leaking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I took it to a shop and they supposed fixed it.  They said that the temp got down pretty low inside the car.  I tested it and they were right.  I didn't need to use the AC much since it got fixed.  However 6 months later (aka now) I really need the AC.  When I turned it on, I occasionally would get the bzzzz, pssssst, bzzzz when I accelerate. The symptom of the left side vent not putting out cooled air is still there.  The right side only puts out minorly cooled air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what could be happening?  I'm sure there's a leak in the system.&#xA;Why is it that one side doesn't work but the other side might work sometimes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most cost efficient way to remedy the problem(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="876" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T11:44:21.057" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T11:44:21.057" Title="2003 Honda - Air Conditioning not working - why and how to fix it" Tags="|honda|ac|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35608" CreationDate="2016-08-25T08:49:49.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the &quot;psst bzzz psst bzzz&quot; sequence is due to excessive compressor cycling, because enough refrigerant (it's NOT Freon &quot;R12&quot;, BTW ... for your vehicle it should be R134a) has leaked out, and opens the low-pressure safety switch, disengaging the compressor clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the compressor is no longer &quot;compressing&quot;, the high and low side system pressures equalize and close the low-pressure safety switch... allowing the compressor to turn back on, and this repeats over and over again causing the noises you hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the prior repair did not find the leak, or all the leaks, and the system was simply recharged and you were sent on your way.  Since that time, enough refrigerant is &quot;missing&quot; from the leak to cause the poor cooling and noise you hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thorough leak test is called for, using either vacuum decay, a refrigerant &quot;sniffer&quot;, or injected UV dye.  This can be expensive and tricky, requiring these specialized tools, and you will have to add to that the cost to actually repair the leak(s) once found, along with a proper measured recharge of refrigerant R134a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The imbalance between one side of the vehicle and the other might be due to the shortest path for cooled air.  Also check the vent flaps to make sure the discharge vents are actually open fully.  There may be controls to change driver vs. passenger cooling, but I'm not certain which Honda model you have, and these features are usually reserved for the higher end vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most &quot;cost effective&quot; solution is to simply add more refrigerant (but use the one that has UV dye added) to get you through the hot season, if the leak is small and slow.  However, this is not a permanent solution, and it also has environmental implications, which frankly, makes this solution technically &lt;em&gt;illegal&lt;/em&gt; in some jurisdictions -- certainly anywhere in the United States.  While R134a is not ozone-depleting like R12 &quot;Freon&quot; was, it is still considered a greenhouse gas, and not permitted to be simply vented or leaked out.  Cars are now transitioning to R1234yf, which supposedly has even less environmental impact, but may be flammable ... none of this matters to your problem at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does matter, is unfortunately the proper solution is to isolate and repair the leak, but this is quite likely beyond what you might consider &quot;cost effective&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T08:49:49.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35608" CreationDate="2016-08-25T09:30:22.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The periodic hissing is probably the compressor cycling on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pressure sensor is functional, I wouldn't be surprised if there is too much refrigerant in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can confirm this using a manifold pressure gauge. Be sure to check both high side and low side to confirm that they are within spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T09:30:22.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35522" CreationDate="2016-08-25T09:31:30.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, cars that have a valve in the exhaust have 2 exhaust paths. One path goes through the silencer, the other path bypasses it. The valve opens/ closes the bypass. In both valve positions the exhaust gases can flow freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just sticking a valve in your existing exhaust system will not reduce the noise: the gasses still flow through the same undamped set of pipes. With the valve closed, the engine will experience more backpressure and run less efficiently.  And you will get more noise because the airflow around the half-open valve will be turbulent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'd have to create a second exhaust path, maybe using your stock silencer. Place the valve in your straight-through pipe just downstream of the point where the stock silencer branches off. Valve closed: exhaust flows through the silencer. Valve open: exhaust flows through both, with the majority going through your straight-through system because of its lower resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T07:08:49.773" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T07:08:49.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35607" CreationDate="2016-08-25T09:47:01.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and No, Vehicle manufacturers often change a lot of parameters of a vehicle when deploying them in different countries , the main reason for this is to make sure that the vehicle adapts to that particular market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main things the manufacturers alter are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engine : Manufacturers often change the engine to suit the market , for example, I live in India where we seldom get any car(Global model) with more than 4 cylinder engine or even a turbo(petrol) , usually it is under 1.5liter in capacity even. The main reason behind this is that the India Market is economy sensitive , the need gas mileage and lower cost of procurement thus no point in rolling out a car with a fire-breathing V8 under the bonnet, it simply won't sell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Equipment: Many creature comforts like rear parking camera, electrically adjustable seats , sun Roof etc are usually never seen in popular cars in India even though their foreign counterparts usually come loaded with much more equipment simply because our market does not care for those things and other features like Sun Roof and heated seats are pointless in a tropical region.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety Equipment: Now This is where my answer will be relevant to the OP's Question, Manufacturers often skip on expensive safety equipment in developing markets to reduce cost like ABS , EBD , Airbags , without these things the car is going to be less safe in terms of an accident but on the contrary will be more reliable for ownership since there are lot less equipment that can go wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers do not change the structural rigidity of a car for different countries , some companies like Hyundai installs thicker doors to export models which are manufactured here in India to meet the NCAP Saftey norms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO iF you are asking if one car lasts longer in one market compared to other then in terms of ownership less equipment will be more reliable than one which is fully loaded. The Quality of the equipment used can also vary. So its a mixed bag , there is no One answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T09:47:01.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35522" CreationDate="2016-08-25T09:54:18.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car is forced induction, specifically turbocharged.  Placing an obstruction in the exhaust will prevent the turbo from spinning up quickly because it relies on the flow an gas through the exhaust to spin up the veins of the unit.  This butterfly valve will impede the flow of gas through the exhaust system and thus quite likely add turbo lag or potentially even stall the turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option would be to opt for a &quot;resonated&quot; performance exhaust system is the objective is to make the car quiet.  That said, the most civilized exhaust system available is almost certainly the OEM system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T09:54:18.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T11:51:22.253" Score="3" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brought a 95 Subaru impreza 1.6 ltr 5 speed manual. I put my foot down on accelerator and it spits and splutters. If i put my foot down slowly I can get up to speed, but once I'm at say 100 or 110 kph every minute or so it starts to die down. I take my foot off and re-apply slowly. It slowly picks up but happens every minute or so. I have changed plugs, air filter leads and fuel filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21892" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T23:37:01.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T23:37:01.310" Title="1995 Subaru impreza acceleration problem" Tags="|subaru|manual-transmission|acceleration|impreza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35618" CreationDate="2016-08-25T12:07:10.577" Score="10" ViewCount="50087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't realize until recently that the ATF level is supposed to be checked while the engine is running, unlike the engine oil level which you're supposed to check at least five minutes after shutting the engine off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the reason is for this discrepancy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T22:50:37.497" Title="Why is the ATF Level checked with the engine running?" Tags="|maintenance|automatic-transmission|scheduled-maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:08:07.850" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '98 Honda Civic EXi with D15Z4 16 valve SOHC, in which I installed a D16A7 SOHC 16 valve engine, so I would like to know what kind ECU compatible with this engine and the schematic for wiring of detail plug Ignition Distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21893" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T15:26:28.470" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T19:00:54.207" Title="Need Help with Honda Engine Swap" Tags="|honda|civic|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35616" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:14:11.973" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main things about tranny fluid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transmission fluid is checked when it's hot (up to running temperature). As the fluid gets up to temperature it expands. If the fluid is cold, it won't give the proper level reading, thus overfilling will ensue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of the main fluid compartments of the transmission is the torque converter. When full, the fluid level of the torque converter is much higher than is the level of the pan (almost entirely above the pan in most cases). Due to this, when the engine is stopped, a significant amount of the fluid will drain down into the pan, showing the wrong amount of fluid on the dipstick. With the engine running, not only is the transmission paths filled with fluid, but the torque converter is as well. Then a check of the fluid will give you a proper level. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking engine oil is a lot different. It needs to be checked when it's in the oil pan. In order for it to be in the oil pan, it needs to drain after it's been up in the engine. This takes a little bit of time. Engine oil doesn't expand as much as transmission fluid, so can be checked hot or cold. While engine oil is important to how an engine operates, the level isn't as imperative as transmission fluid. Transmissions are very sensitive to line pressure. As you get more transmission fluid into the transmission, the pressures rise. If left unchecked, the fluid will find an escape hatch somewhere and that somewhere is usually a seal. Blowing out the front main seal (or where the torque converter rides) requires a transmission pull to fix. This isn't something you want to do every day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engines don't have the pressure effect which transmissions do. The pressure is regulated at the pump and mainly needs to have oil flow in order to operate efficiently. Most engine manufacturers are good down to even 5psi of oil pressure. There is also a lot of space in an engine for oil to hide. As oil gets pumped around, it sticks to walls and is all over the place. It needs to drain back into the sump, thus the 5 minutes of drain time. Not everything will drain down, but the vast majority of it will. This isn't how &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; manufacturer likes to have it read, but leaves things in a pretty good state as far as the level goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't read this as a discrepancy in either case. I look at it as how they are designed/engineered to be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T13:36:44.260" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T13:36:44.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35616" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:16:40.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is specifically dependent on the transmission. There are some that require your vehicle running while you do this. There are some that require you lift the front end up a certain degree and some are required to be non-running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why exactly? That's an engineers decision.&#xA;In your particular situation there are actuators and solenoids that control flow of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) within the transmission. The levels may be incorrect if not observed during active use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason being is that you have a torque converter, ATF cooler, and several veins within your transmission that may only hold fluid during circulation. When the engine isn't spinning and your ATF pumps aren't pumping fluid, it all falls back down to your transmission pan due to gravity. If you check fluid levels when it isn't running it won't read correctly because everything has pooled up in your pan. They also have the cold and dark markers on your stick for the same reason. As fluids heat up molecules tend to spread, so I would assume that the engineers use that as a gauge of correction as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helped. I'm just throwing my two cents in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T13:16:40.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35615" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:30:56.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is typical of a fuel delivery issue. The only advice I could give you is test, exhaust back pressure, fuel pressure and intake vacuum. Make sure those numbers are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are all within acceptance, you need to look into testing the head gasket and the engine block itself for leaks. although those cars are great and rarely have problems. They are prone to some catalytic converter clogging issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T13:30:56.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T14:03:33.260" Score="1" ViewCount="2185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Nissan xTrail petrol T32, and have noticed two issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I change from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd especially, it does not go as smoothly and effortlessly as the other cars I have driven (Toyota, MB). In other words, changing from 2nd to 3rd, if I move quickly, is noisy and not smooth and easy (not sure how to describe it better). If I do it slowly, leaving it in neutral for a second it is better, but not great, and I was not used to doing this. It's slightly better when changing from 3rd to 4th and so forth. It's also better when going down from high gears to lower ones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While driving, my stick shift is doing slight movements forward and backward. When I press the accelerator it moves backward a bit (1/2 inch or so), and when I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal while in a gear it moves forward the same way. This is happening on all gears. Also I've noticed that on some gears, 2nd and 3rd, without pressing the accelerator pedal the stick is moving forward and backward itself, when I don't have a hand on the stick. This doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21895" LastEditorUserId="14293" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T23:36:57.293" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T21:03:23.477" Title="Nissan xtrail T32 manual gear box/transmission issue?" Tags="|manual-transmission|shifting|acceleration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T14:14:28.987" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I equipped my '98 honda civic exi with a motor d16a7 SOHC 16V (not VTEC) instead of the d15z4 engine SOHC 16v , where I would like to know what type (reference) calculator (ECU?) that goes with this engine because with the old calculator installed it displaces gasoline through the exhaust manifold and the engine does not start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21896" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T15:32:39.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T15:32:39.313" Title="Help with '98 Civic EXI engine swap: d15z4 to d16a7" Tags="|honda|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-26T00:26:28.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35631" CreationDate="2016-08-25T14:30:47.710" Score="3" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dbwllc.net/product/028130202p-tdi-dummy-injector/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TDI Dummy Injector&lt;/a&gt; yesterday. Nice photo, but without any explanation of what the purpose of a &quot;dummy injector&quot; is, let alone why one would spend nearly $400 US to be in possession of said item. Right now, I'm feeling like the dummy…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZ2iO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZ2iO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dummy injector for VW ALH engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T14:55:00.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T20:08:36.360" Title="What is a &quot;dummy injector&quot; used for?" Tags="|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35625" CreationDate="2016-08-25T14:37:21.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know dummy injectors with a plug for pressurized air. They get used when drilling glow plugs or repairing glow plug seats, putting the combustion chamber under pressure to prevent metal shavings falling into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just speculating: Those expensive ones could have an integrated pressure sensor for a compression test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T14:37:21.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2016-08-25T16:15:39.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be argued that pure white (4000K) light is superior due to improved color rendition. But in reality, yellowish light (around 3200K) is probably the safest for night driving. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, bluish light scatters in fog or poor weather and blue light has a very distracting effect to the human eye. Try to focus on a blue light at night and you'll realize that it's both difficult and uncomfortable. There's a reason why fog lamps on some vehicles is tinted yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, any halogen bulb that tries to mimic a &quot;xenon&quot; headlamp has a color filter on the glass. This filter simply removes the yellowish part of the light output, which means fewer actual lumens are making it onto the road. Hence, it's providing an illusion of better visibility while actually providing less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look up bulb specifications you'll find this to be the case. Bulbs with maximum output (most lumens) are unfiltered. These filaments are driven harder than regular bulbs so they produce more light with the same wattage. A byproduct is that they also burn hotter and have a slightly higher color temperature than normal bulbs (3500K). The consequence is a much shorter bulb life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinted bulbs, such as Sylvania Silverstars, drive their filaments very hard to produce legal amounts of light. Their lumen output is the same as a cheap, standard bulb but with ridiculously short operating life (I think a 9005 bulb is rated at 50 hours!). I bet most of the tinted bulbs on eBay or whatever don't even put out the legally minimum amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T16:15:39.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T16:56:37.530" Score="4" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thermostat gasket failed and the engine overheated to the point of knocking and dying. I replaced the thermostat and it ran normally, however when the outside temperature goes over 90º F it starts to lose power going up hill or passing, in cooler temperatures all is normal. The engine feels like it's not getting enough gas, I live in the foothills so on hot days, I need to shift into 3rd to get up the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be great, the check engine light goes on, then a day later its off again. How can I track down what is happening – and hopefully get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21901" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T23:05:12.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T23:05:12.990" Title="2011 Nissan Titan runs poorly when outside temperature goes up" Tags="|troubleshooting|nissan|overheating|titan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35637" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:29:50.943" Score="5" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Details: I have a 2001 Nissan Xterra SE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to install a house battery into the vehicle. The battery I have been considering is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://upgi.com/Themes/leanandgreen/images/UPG/ProductDownloads/45983.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Universal Battery UB12750&lt;/a&gt;. Because this is an AGM battery, and it will be located behind the driver's seat, I'm concerned about overcharging the battery on long trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the battery specifications, for cyclic use it has a control voltage of &lt;strong&gt;14.6 - 14.8 V&lt;/strong&gt;. According to the alternator specifications for the Xterra, it has a regulated voltage of &lt;strong&gt;14.1 - 14.7 V&lt;/strong&gt;. Does this mean that the battery won't overcharge while connected to the main charging system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followup question: If there is still a risk of overcharging, would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yandina.com/mixedbattery.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt; work to protect the battery for my setup? I'm planning on using an isolator either way, but if overcharge protection is an issue I might select this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19063" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T20:11:51.090" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:01:26.213" Title="Will an AGM/SLA battery still be at risk of overcharge even if its control voltage exceeds the alternator's regulated voltage?" Tags="|electrical|battery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35625" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:01:18.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel engines have very high compression. Using a standard compression tester, commonly used for a gasoline engine, will not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the item you linked to, but most all diesel compression test kits include &quot;dummy injectors&quot;. The &quot;dummy injector&quot; is installed in place of the injector, torqued into place, and the engine cranked to get an accurate compression reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the injectors which used pressure of the fuel to operate by overcoming a given spring pressure in the injector itself were called &quot;dummy&quot; injectors. Most modern injectors are electronic controlled (smart). &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_rail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="4939" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T20:08:36.360" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T20:08:36.360" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33400" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:26:39.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a dealership that has a certified technician working on your vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a hole in the wall place, you really don't know who is doing the work and what they are doing. It sounds like they may have screwed up the brake lines or can't figure out how to do the brakes correctly in general. You also need to bleed the brakes on that vehicle with a bi-directional scan tool. The Anti-lock brake system is always active on those and it's just a good practice anyway. If they have a Starscan scan tool, there is a function on the tool for this. Either way, your only options are to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep taking it back (If they broke it, they will keep lying).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to a dealer and have it inspected for around $100.00&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay a personal reliable technician to give a glance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing with your situation is that, they did the work and now your car doesn't function correctly. However this could be coincidental. Just bad timing or something of that nature. I've done work on interior, watched a customer leave and comeback complaining that now his car is overheating within hours of leaving. That's just really bad timing, but it obviously wasn't my fault if I never even messed with it. So, moral of that story is keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T11:42:41.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T11:42:41.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T21:25:58.410" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can the engine and ducts of a 2001 Toyota Corolla be cleaned after a mice invasion without using chemicals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21908" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T01:29:53.457" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T01:29:53.457" Title="Cleaning after a mice invasion in 2001 Toyota Corolla" Tags="|toyota|cleaning|corolla|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35634" CreationDate="2016-08-25T22:12:15.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After restoring a good number of vintage cars as well as vintage electronic radios, cleaning the nest material is, as commented done with a good strong vacuum.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is the feces and urine that is the issue and concern.  These present both damaging effects on car materials and health risks to humans.&#xA;The urine is acidic and will etch and eat metals and materials.&#xA;Bacteria and virus exist in both.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macroevolution.net/diseases-carried-by-mice.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mice viruses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at minimum vacuum out the nests wear a face mask protect both eyes (tear ducts) and inhalation. &#xA;Then at minimum use a disinfectant (lysol, clorox).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T22:12:15.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43502" CreationDate="2016-08-25T22:12:32.133" Score="2" ViewCount="31576" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muVml.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muVml.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;24V charging diagram with 12V Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hey guys, I got a new trolling motor for my boat but it is 24 volts so I got 2 deep cycle batteries and I will be linking them in a series circuit. For charging the batteries I have a float charger for 24v but power is not always available which brings me to my diagram: Charging batteries linked in a circuit with a 12 volt source. I am not sure if this will work, I am open for other solutions if this is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:I should mention the isolator keeps all the connections separate only to supply a one way feed of current not connecting the 2 batteries together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21914" OwnerDisplayName="Brad Da Silva" LastEditorUserId="21914" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T22:47:36.790" LastActivityDate="2022-07-01T20:23:36.850" Title="Charging 24V Battery with 12V Alternator and Isolator" Tags="|alternator|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35630" CreationDate="2016-08-25T22:37:14.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially batteries like the Optima, or Diehard Platinum are AGM batteries.  When I was working we used AGM batteries for various purposes on the training range.  They were charged by various methods solar, automotive alternators with success.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But the main difference in AGMs made for automotive / marine use, solar use and home use (UB12750) is not in the basic electrical design but in the case design.  Home AGMs are much less rugged cases for the most part.  So it would best be protected in a battery box with possibly some protective padding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As for using an isolator most deep cycle isolators have charge protection with automatic charge switching so adding in a regulator in line could stop them from functioning properly.  Spend that extra secondary regulator money on a better isolator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chargingchargers.com/tutorials.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AGM battery tutorials and support&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastEditorUserId="21850" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T16:01:26.213" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:01:26.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35803" CreationDate="2016-08-25T22:58:34.000" Score="3" ViewCount="14147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a jetta 2.5L 2006 and I have a P0305 check engine. The code says cylinder 5 misfire detected and the car shakes badly on iddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a look at the coil packs and they look all good and the spark plugs were changed last year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a tests, I moved all the coil packs to see if I would get another error code but the P0305 for cylinder 5 reappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something simple I can try before bringing my car to a garage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This all started after I jumped start my car &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I haven't checked the spark plugs yet because I don't have the tool but this morning I got a new check engine code. &lt;strong&gt;P0300&lt;/strong&gt; Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21915" LastEditorUserId="21915" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T11:58:41.297" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T02:40:43.577" Title="P0305 cylinder 5 misfire detected" Tags="|vw|jetta|misfire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35636" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:24:59.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of one for both here and hardware communities as a good electronic person would point you toward a DC to DC converter with isolation diodes.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victron-Orion-12-24-8-96W-DC-DC-Non-Isolated-Converter-Step-Up-12V-to-24V-8Amp-/252380104113?hash=item3ac306c5b1:g:YVQAAOSwLs5XK-Wq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;8amp DC 12v to 24v&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DC to DC converters come in many &quot;flavors&quot;, with up converter from 12v to 24v being very common for use in solar power situations.  The link is a 8amp version, but they can be found in much higher currents then 8amp.  To make this a 24 charger you need.  Add back flow blocking diodes for isolation. and a charge regulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T23:24:59.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35636" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:36:11.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your isolator circcuit won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only safe way to charge the batteries is to connect them in parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12-&gt;24 volt converter suggested by @spicetraders won't work, because you will need about 28 volts to charge a &quot;24 Volt&quot; battery (or two, 12 volt, in series.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description on that eBay page mentions an Orion 12/27,6-12 which is apparently designed to charge a 24 volt battery from a 12 volt source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12111" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T23:36:11.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35499" CreationDate="2016-08-26T00:18:41.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: It was the ECM/PCM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as I diagnosed the electrical circuits, I think I was just trying to overlook the elephant in the room (broken ECM) for fear of spending $$$. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the troubleshooting steps described in the Honda Civic Service guide, I convinced myself that clearly the ECM ALWAYS HAS TO GROUND PIN A14 (ECM connector A, pin 14) going to the compressor clutch relay AS SOON AS YOU TURN ON THE AC. Period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The troubleshooting guide even shortcuts the diagnosis steps and tells you right after not seeing ground in A14 to &quot;Replace your ECM&quot; !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the dealership and they replaced the ECM and voila! AC is working again without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this was made out of love for Civics, really... I have spent in this car $2000, first b/c the compressor broke, then for mysterious reasons the ECM broke right after... bad luck eh? Regardless, car is up and working again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21815" LastEditorUserId="21815" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T15:28:09.137" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:28:09.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35636" CreationDate="2016-08-26T00:26:13.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can us a siilar arrangement if, instead of an &quot;isolator&quot;, you use a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch that transfers both leads of the alternator from one battery to the other. This allows the alternator to change one battery at a time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While &quot;doable&quot; it's not a good idea s you need to make various compromises or take certain real world actions to treat the battery well. eg the changing should be moderately frequent to keep the batteries balanced, charging while trolling adds extra issues etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 12V to 24V-proper-lead-acid-deep-cycle-battery-charger would be more satisfactory. Required Vout varies and a purpose designed unit will deal with this. Having enough voltage out is necessary but not sufficient to keep your relatively expensive batteries in good condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9336" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T00:26:13.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35636" CreationDate="2016-08-26T00:48:34.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the best option is, of course, to just buy a 24-volt alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (car) alternators produce AC that goes through a rectifier and a regulator. If this is the case, you could use a step-up transformer with 1:2 ratio, but it has to be designed for this kind of application as changing RPM changes the alternator output frequency and consequently would change the output voltage of a transformer. If you can find such a transformer, you will only need the rectifier/regulator box from a 24V alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DC-DC converter is a good option, but again, it has to be designed as a lead-acid battery charger, not just a power source. As people mentioned, you'll need about 28 volts at the output to charge 24V system (a battery is made of cells, lead-acid cell is described here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery#Voltages_for_common_usages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery#Voltages_for_common_usages&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility (most feasible) is to buy a couple-hundred watt invertor and a 24V standalone charger (designed to work with 100-240VAC depending on your location).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21917" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T00:48:34.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33610" CreationDate="2016-08-26T02:01:59.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it is not possible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least not without some mechanical modifications. &lt;a href=&quot;http://eahart.com/prius/psd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This diagram&lt;/a&gt; shows how the Power Split device works. The Prius has two electric engines , Motor Generator 1 (MG2) and Motor Generator 2 (MG2), and one  Internal Combustion Engine (ICE), linked by the Power Split Device (PSD). The MG2 is locked to the wheels (no clutch or torque converter in-between) and the rotation of the ICE and MG1 is a function of each other, respectively, and the MG2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no electric power, the MG1 and MG2 will turn loose. The problem is that the MG1 offers no resistance to turn while the MG2 would be tied to the wheels, thus remaining stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think like a car with one wheel stuck in mud and the other in firm ground. The wheel with less resistance (the one in the mud) will turn loose while the one in firm ground will offer resistance because the differential does not &quot;know&quot; that it &quot;should&quot; move the more firm wheel, not the loose one, unless you have a differential lock or other device that distributes the power &quot;fairly&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for this would be locking the MG1, so the ICE would turn the MG2 instead, which would be offering less resistance, on this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T02:07:14.913" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T02:07:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T02:10:48.693" Score="5" ViewCount="9548" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's brand new bumper cracked from some road debris (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BELUU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;image&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IVSEF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IVSEF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Body shop quoted her something ridiculous like $1100 (a $280 part plus a ton of labor, to replace the whole thing). I know there are adhesive patch kits out there. I'm guessing most body shops won't want to waste their time for such an easy repair like that, that they won't get rich off of. I'm fairly handy, I've laid up custom fiberglass projects in the distant past... should I try some sort of self repair like this? I mean, especially if we were considering replacing the whole thing, there's nothing to lose at this point. Painting seems like the one thing I wouldn't be able to do a great job at, but there's really no paint damage, I feel like if I could patch this from the inside securely, all there would be is a barely visible line where the crack was. But I'm not sure how hard it will be with the location of the crack in a corner like this. Car is a 2016 Subaru Impreza if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T11:52:18.740" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T11:52:18.740" Title="How to repair a cracked plastic bumper" Tags="|subaru|body-work|impreza|bumper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35647" CreationDate="2016-08-26T02:40:07.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have the right idea, at least for a temporary repair.  You'll have to remove the entire bumber assembly to do this right, and you'll need to go slow as to not break the platic clips and &lt;em&gt;geegaws&lt;/em&gt; that hold the whole thing together like a jigsaw puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the special poyurethane type polymers that are used in these bumpers, one challenge is getting &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; to bond to these surfaces.  Regular fiberglass resin isn't going to hold well for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean and rough up the inner surface with 160 grit all around the crack.  One &lt;em&gt;goo&lt;/em&gt; you might try which I've have good luck with is called &quot;Plastic Welder&quot;, and it is a two-component adhesive that mixes and sets up quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will work best if you can temporaily clamp the crack perfectly closed from the outside.  I'd start by trying good duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any fiberglass mat will do;  I would apply a &quot;buttering&quot; layer of whatever adhesive you decide, and no sense being spare.  Press in your reinforcement mat, you can probably use a standard fiberglass roller for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google for &quot;bumper repair adhesive&quot; and you can probably find some appropriate &lt;em&gt;goo&lt;/em&gt; that is specifically designed for this application.  I prefer two-component types, I think these work better, and have the plus of catalyzing quickly when you need it, rather than waiting forever for a long cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://3mcollision.com/3m-automix-ez-sand-flexible-parts-repair-kit-05895.html&quot;&gt;Here's a 3M product with a good reputation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T02:40:07.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35569" CreationDate="2016-08-26T04:48:48.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Release the air valve from the water outlet you have air trapped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21702" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T04:48:48.060" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T05:41:40.433" Score="13" ViewCount="5373" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A little background (Little longer, please excuse):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few days before while we were driving &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Swift#Swift_Dzire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maruti Suzuki Dzire vdi&lt;/a&gt; (Engine: Fiat Multijet 1.3 DDIS, CRDI engine) around 40kmph.  All of sudden there was a noise from engine and while we attempted to pull over to the side, the engine started to run away. We parked the car on the road side and removed the key but still the engine was running at its peak RPM with plumes of white/grey smoke covering the entire road. At the time of this happening it was our first experience and I was not aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine_runaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diesel runaway&lt;/a&gt;.  We opened the bonnet (engine hood) and was literally frozen due to panic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the throttle pedal has stuck and hence tried to tap it with my hand and magically engine died. I do not know how it stopped.  The coolant boiled over the expansion tank  and the engine was hot and smelly and with huge crowd gathered around pouring in advice.  We could not think anything wise.  I reinserted the key and switched on the ignition (engine not started) thinking the radiator fan could run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car was towed away to an authorized service center and they were puzzled about this.  Apparently none there were aware of diesel runaway.  First they reported that the high pressure diesel pump had failed and was just hanging on to the engine on loose fasteners. Then they said the pump did not fail. They cleaned EGR valve, intercooler.  Intercooler was flooded with engine oil, engine oil topped up and started white smoke spewed out for few minutes and then became normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile I read about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine_runaway&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diesel runaway&lt;/a&gt; (see this video of a similar incident in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg0bD5fHCcs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;) and understood that in my case the engine oil was acting as a fuel. The only way it could go in was through breather pipe or turbo charger seal failure or extremely worn out piston rings.  With the noise heard just seconds before runaway and with the observation of having engine oil inside inter cooler I quickly came to conclusion that turbocharger should be the source of problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After few days the service center staff performed a compression test and said 2 cylinders achieve compression ratio of 18:1 and other two achieved only 12:1.  The white smoke is gone but still could see some trail of smoke (seems normal for a diesel engine).  I thought I should have written off the engine, but to my surprise they charged me half of what they charge during normal service.  They charged for EGR and intercooler cleaning and oil topup. While driving now there is a significant power loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How did the engine runaway would have stopped? If it had stopped by consuming the engine oil significant damages should have occurred. But this was not the case reported by service centre staff.  I have not blocked the air intake and the smoke was only spewing at the rear of the car and front (engine bay) remained clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would have caused the runaway? If it is the turbo seals, then the car should have trouble using afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The loss of compression is not analysed further as we do not want to open up the engine causing high cost.  Leak down test could have been done to identify whether the poor compression was due to valve or piston rings.  Service center staff were not aware of this test and so do I until after reading further.  What could have caused the loss of compression?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastEditorUserId="12955" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:00:54.377" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T17:46:25.973" Title="Diesel runaway - stopped miraculously by itself" Tags="|diesel|compression-testing|runaway|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35651" CreationDate="2016-08-26T06:07:54.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Regarding loss of compression&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loss of compression can be explained by the evidence of oil in the cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way the two fluids mix is when there is head gasket failure and/or warpage of the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of cylinder head warpage, the head does not seal some of the combustion chambers completely, which results in low compression figures since gases then have an avenue to escape through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T11:47:30.993" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T11:47:30.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35651" CreationDate="2016-08-26T06:20:42.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your engine, but on the VW TDI engines quite a bit of oil can accumulate in the intake, particularly in the intercooler. The last time I did the timing belt I found about 100 CC of oil in the intercooler. I'd never though to clean it out before so I don't know how long the oil had been accumulating. I also don't know what circumstances would cause the engine to start picking up the oil, but I've seen claims that the VW engines can run away on that oil source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something like that happened on your engine, exhausting the supply of oil in the intercooler could explain why the run away stopped. In the VW engines there is an &quot;anti-shudder&quot; valve that is, in normal circumstances at least, capable of shutting down the engine (from idle). It sits in the EGR valve and acts a bit like the throttle plate on a gasoline engine, but it only has two positions fully open and fully closed. I think the intent of the valve is that it would also serve to shut down a runaway engine, or at least limit air enough to provide some control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T06:20:42.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2987" CreationDate="2016-08-26T06:34:25.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my '07 Odyssey Touring back in 2013 having 75k on it. Now, it's got about 101k. It was prolly due then based on the 60k rule...or 90. I'll wait till it gets to 120k then I'll have the timing belt changed. Based on my past Hondas that I took to their limits, they broke/worn out pretty much between 140-170K miles. Thats why I think 120k will atill be safe. One example: I had a 1991 CRX DX (died on the I-5 fwy) with timing belt's teeth mostly worn out, literally. The amazing part was, there was no issue with valves hitting the cylinders, for a '91 model. I thought the valve clearance improvement only happened in the '95s-up on Hondas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21924" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T06:40:02.450" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T06:40:02.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2016-08-26T07:15:26.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can understand why some mechanics don't want people to have an OBD2 scanner. The reason is that some mechanics who are dishonest, don't want you to know what the problem is before they assess your car so they can charge you more. This only applies to dishonest mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21926" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T07:15:26.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2016-08-26T08:37:29.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to read the error codes I would suggest you to try some elm327-based code reader. Given the low price (about 4-10€) it is worth a try. It connects to your smartphone. For android phones you need the bluetooth variant, for apple the wlan variant. I can recommend the app &quot;torque pro&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made positive experiences with this adapter, however I had problems connecting it to VW cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T08:37:29.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35647" CreationDate="2016-08-26T10:38:04.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are  companies that specialize in doing this sort of repair. Many are mobile and can repair it in your driveway. A Google search of &quot;plastic bumper repair&quot; of the Bay area showed a listing for a company called &quot;Dent Crew&quot;. They specialize in paintless dent and plastic bumper repair. This is not an endorsement for this particular company but an example to let you know the technology is out there. Most of the time the repair typically involves welding the defect with a plastic filler. Repainting is required for cosmetic purposes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1566" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T10:38:04.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35661" CreationDate="2016-08-26T12:05:25.390" Score="29" ViewCount="10661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finishing studying EFI systems, which set me thinking about induction more generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We inject fuel from a high-pressure common rail for many good reasons. We're capable of making stratified burn within a cylinder, provided we have full control of the throttle butterfly. We sometimes use exhaust gas recirculation to retard combustion and lower cylinder temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given those scenarios, why don't we add a common rail of high-pressure atmospheric air, and use injectors to introduce air, and exhaust when required, in a similar way to fuel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely this would give me an engine that can respond quicker because there's no lag in the inlet airflow, have fewer mechanical parts and potentially reduce emissions by allowing me to control the oxygen content at the catalyst more easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21654" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T14:28:30.587" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T23:19:38.257" Title="We have fuel injection, why not air injection?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|fuel-injection|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-26T12:34:25.750" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple reason: volume.&lt;/strong&gt; @ 14.7:1 stoich, your input into the cylinder would need to be 14.7x bigger (or push that much more) through a nozzle than you would the fluid which is fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You state it would have fewer mechanical parts, but is that true? You'd have to furnish a mechanical method to create the high pressure air as well as introduce it into the system. You'd have to have some type of tank which would hold the high pressure air. Then that &quot;high pressure&quot; would need to be in the 3000-5000 psi range at a guess to ensure proper flow. Think of an air compressor which could keep up with the demand you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we throw some math in the mix (and assume I'm not just being completely stupid ... though the jury is out on that one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2L engine has a swept volume of 2L. If this theoretical engine was running, naturally aspirated and attained an 80% volumetric efficiency (VE), it would be taking in .8L of air every revolution of the crankshaft. The math:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.0L X .8 = &lt;strong&gt;1.6L&lt;/strong&gt; - Intake volume for all four cylinders @ 80% VE &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.8L x .5 = &lt;strong&gt;.8L&lt;/strong&gt; - Intake volume for every revolution in a 4 cycle engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;600rpm x .8L = &lt;strong&gt;480L&lt;/strong&gt; - Amount of air at idle needed to maintain idle speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6000rpm x .8L = &lt;strong&gt;4800L&lt;/strong&gt; - Amount of air at redline to maintain fastest engine speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your system would need to move 4800L of air &lt;em&gt;per minute&lt;/em&gt; in order to maintain that engine speed. That's about 170CFM. If you can haul something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DCIFO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DCIFO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;around on the back of your car, it might be doable. The 170CFM is a figure for the small, lower horsepower end of the equation. What about performance cars where you have three times as much swept volume (6.3L Chevrolet LT1 engine) with a greater VE (~85% at a guess). Those numbers are hugely greater. You'd be tripling the amount of air needed, which means triple the amount you'd be towing behind the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it could be done, but at what cost? The way air is introduced into the engine now is far more efficient and introduces far more air than you could reliably continue to pump air into an engine the way you suggest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T12:34:25.750" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-26T12:35:38.210" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have almost but not quite described the operation of either a Turbocharger or Supercharger.  The idea of the air under pressure being injected from a common fuel rail would likely not work as it would be difficult to guarantee decent atomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T12:35:38.210" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T12:40:44.690" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra. My lights and radio are coming on when I turn the key but the car will not start, it doesn't make a sound. I had a full service in February 2016 &amp;amp; I am 5,000 mi outside of my last oil change. Checked the oil and it is still within the normal limits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be going on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21932" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T14:36:01.927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:36:01.927" Title="Starting a Nissan Sentra" Tags="|battery|nissan|ignition|starter|sentra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T12:50:04.320" Score="4" ViewCount="5284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '98 Ram 1500 and the passenger side tail light has stopped working. Not all of it though. There are two bulbs. One for the reverse light and one that has brake and turn signal as well as the running light. Well the brake and turn signal still works but the running light does not. I changed the bulb still the same problem. I changed the socket still same problem. I also checked all fuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21934" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T16:58:34.423" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T17:18:55.260" Title="'98 Ram 1500 - One tail light not working" Tags="|electrical|dodge|tail-lights|ram|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:41:47.083" Score="1" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CAM, GEARSHIFT will only turn 2 times. There are Five gears, And the gears on go into 1st and 2nd. The gears are very hard to shift into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21937" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T18:08:29.650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:38:02.370" Title="2001 Honda Shadow VT1100C2 Gears will only shift into 1st and 2nd" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|manual-transmission|gears|shadow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:01:39.643" Score="4" ViewCount="5713" Body="&lt;p&gt;My '96 Honda Civic is overheating. Either my head gasket is blown or my water pump is frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;It overheats when...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I start it and let it run in the driveway for 5 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I run it up and down the street by our house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What I've Tried&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between each step, the car still overheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked coolant. (I used a 50/50 premix blend). Coolant is okay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked/replaced thermostat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked/replaced thermo switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jumped power to fan: it runs when jumped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flushed/filled radiator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced radiator cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced radiator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bled cooling system by the book.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Diagnostic Info&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely no milkiness on dipstick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no evidence of mixing of coolant and oil visible when I pulled off the valve cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no leaking coolant on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no white vapor from the tailpipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no sweet odor from the tail pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no moisture or puddling in the floorboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The lower radiator hose is soft and flexible and not at all hot to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a head gasket test kit from the auto parts store:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first read was nearly an immediate color change from blue to green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second and third tests showed no color change at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that I mistakenly sucked some radiator fluid into the test chamber the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Any ideas what this could be?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21938" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T13:18:45.500" Title="Overheating 1996 Honda Civic" Tags="|honda|civic|overheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35664" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:06:02.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check Fuses , check light bulb, and last check for moister in the light bulb housing or check for damages in the wiring harness .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21937" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T15:06:02.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:06:15.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the concept would be like taking a piston compressor to pump air into a piston engine, so energy to pump the air compressor pistons would counter the energy developed by the engine pistons.  Adding loss in the engine do to heat would seem likely to be a negative gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is it possible a gain could be realized in this concept in a compact and self contained form would be taking 1/2 of the pistons in a V8 and turn them into compressors to pump the air into the driven pistons..&#xA;Maybe turn the whole thing into a two cycle with adjacent pistons using the scavenge port for intake tied to the output of the pump piston. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T15:06:15.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:40:20.500" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;High pressure gas is very difficult to create, much harder than high pressure liquid. It's because liquids are not compressible, so you can squirt them virtually as hard as you want, while gas will just absorb most some of your compressing effort and convert rest of it to heat (adiabatic heating). To compress air to the pressure necessary would require a reciprocating pump slightly bigger than the cylinder itself. So instead of doing that via dedicated pump, we compress the air with a component we already have. In-place compression gives the added benefit of recycling adiabatic heat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are proposing would fit nicely to a 2-stroke engine. It already has a common rail of moderately high pressure air, the air admission into the cylinder can be controlled by inlet valve (if there is one) just as common rail injectors open to inject fuel. But the power required to inject air would be huge, just to put your needs into perspective: the 2-shaft Junkers Jumo 205 should theoretically require very strong gears to transfer half of it's power from lower shaft to the upper one where power was taken, but compressor was run off the lower shaft and took so much power that very little actually remained. Almost half of gross output was taken by a compressor and that engine reached intake manifold pressure nowhere near what you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T15:40:20.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-26T16:55:26.570" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In many ways, you're describing a 5 stroke engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/24457/9164&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 Stroke engines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; are using a piston to provide a secondary means of compression for the AFR.  Although, not injecting air they are compressing the air by mechanical means.  What you describe with air injection requires massive volumes of air.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of a 5.0 Liter engine requiring 5 liters air every 720 degrees of revolution. At 4,000 RPM you would require 10,000 liters of air to be 'injected' every minute.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air injection for emissions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of injecting air is not a unique one.  Many manufacturers have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_air_injection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;injecting air into the exhaust&lt;/a&gt; in order to assist with oxidation of unburnt fuel at low RPM in catalytic converters.  These were early versions of course, think mid-70's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:19.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:55:26.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35664" CreationDate="2016-08-26T17:18:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, time to get serious here :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have access to a test light or a DMM (or a volt meter of any sort)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be good to start by looking at the evidence – if you still have the old bulb, does it look good (clear glass, with both filaments connected to their &quot;arms&quot; on both sides)? Are you sure you've got the right bulb? Has anything happened recently to the truck that is out of the ordinary? Have you added an accessory or driven on a particularly rough road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you replaced the socket, it wouldn't hurt to verify that it is wired correctly. The outer shell should be ground and the two terminals in the base should be the running light and the turn/brake light. Strange things can/will happen if you get that wrong…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with a meter or test light turn on the running lights and turn signal, then check to see if you have voltage present at both of the terminals in the base of the socket (the shell of the socket is ground). One terminal should be on steady and the other should be going on and off. The former is the running lights and the later is the turn signal. Based on what you're saying the turn signal terminal should be going on and off, but the other one should show nothing. But if you do get a voltage at both then you know the problem is with the bulb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you get nothing on the running light terminal, check the fuses. Inspect them and also measure the voltage across the fuse terminals in the fuse panel, you should see something close to 12 V with the lights on – if the connection to the tail light is good. With the fuse out you could also try measuring the resistance (Ohms, Ω) between the load side of the fuse (the side which does not show 12 V when the fuse is removed) and ground. You will only see a resistance here if the bulb is installed and good. If you're unsure about the bulb you could have a helper just the running light terminal to ground a test like that. The resistance should be close to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all of those tests confirm your problem, then you need to start tracing the circuit. That means finding places where you can get to the connections and splices in the wires and open them to check for voltage. To do that a copy of the wiring diagram (schematic) for your specific vehicle really helps. The most likely places for failures will be (roughly in order) the bulb, corrosion in the socket, loose or damaged connectors, a failed switch or relay, or a blown fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a connector for trailer lights that is a potential problem as well – especially if it is not factory. The splice connectors used can damage the wire and some of them are not well sealed so they are a very likely failure point. They are often exposed to physical damage as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that it is hard to get access to the wire due to lack of connectors or lack of easy access to the connectors, you could consider pushing a sharp tipped probe through the insulation and into the wire for testing. A bit of electrical tape (or &quot;liquid tape&quot;) will ensure that the puncture doesn't become a place for corrosion to set in. If you're doing that try to do a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://algorithms.openmymind.net/search/binarysearch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;binary search&lt;/a&gt;&quot; – find a place in the middle of the wire to test, if you find voltage there then the problem is &quot;downstream&quot; and you can split that distance in half to do your next check (or vice versa). Doing a binary search helps you to isolate where the problem lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it simpler to trace the wires make sure you note the size and color of the wire at the socket in the rear. That will help with sorting them wires out in the middle of the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T17:18:55.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:16:39.837" Score="3" ViewCount="7784" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bosch diesel injection pumps used by VW in their ALH TDI engines have a fuel shutoff solenoid (N109) which is supposed to cut off fuel to the engine. The engine has been setting a DTC &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109)&#xA;      P1538 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been a real puzzle to me, I'd assumed that the fuel shutoff solenoid was used to shut down the engine, and the engine has always shutdown reliably. Today I was setting the IQ (injection quantity) in my on going effort to solve the engine's smoking problem (nicotine patches don't help…). As I watched the IQ drop to 0 when coasting in gear it got me thinking – is the fuel cutoff solenoid used to implement the coasting fuel cutoff? Does anybody know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T18:12:39.233" Title="VW (Bosch) TDI injection pump fuel shut off solenoid functions" Tags="|vw|diesel|tdi|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35673" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:26:07.510" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T18:26:07.510" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:26:07.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35674" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:26:07.510" Score="0" Body="Engines used in applications such as lawn mowers, go carts, chain saws, compressors, small pumps, generators, garden tractors, and string trimmers. Frequently hand (pull) started and without an electrical system beyond the spark plug. Technically there is an overlap with motorcycle / scooter engines, but for questions related to motor cycles or scooters those tags are preferred." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:33:31.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T12:33:31.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35675" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:30:08.343" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T18:30:08.343" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:30:08.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35676" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:30:08.343" Score="0" Body="Use for questions where temperature is a significant feature – e.g., problems that occur only at a specific temperature." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T21:06:48.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:06:48.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35677" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:31:41.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T18:31:41.707" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T18:31:41.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35678" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T18:31:41.707" Score="0" Body="Use for questions where smell is a defining feature – e.g., in cases where a distinctive smell helps to diagnose a problem, or where you want to ask about a smell as the primary issue." OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T21:06:57.470" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:06:57.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:06:23.287" Score="4" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a lot of buzz around the Coates valvetrain circa 1995. &lt;em&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mostadvancedengine.com/files/theme/csrv_vs_poppet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Animation&lt;/a&gt; is too good to miss)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two decades later, I still don't see mass adoption of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coatesengine.com/csrv-advantages.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;revolutionary&quot; technology&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcUi7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coates Valvetrain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what gives? Is there a technical reason to warrant the lack of adoption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17784" LastEditDate="2019-01-14T22:31:18.733" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T22:31:18.733" Title="Are there any downsides to the Coates valvetrain?" Tags="|engine-theory|valve|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:06:42.460" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started parking my 98 Honda Civic Ex in the garage and not driving anywhere from 1-3 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed when starting it stumbles and feels like a very slight misfire for about 5-10 seconds then clears up and drives fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never noticed it when parking outside even for same duration of not being driven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garage does feel slightly cooler than outside temps, I wonder if it's condensation building in the cylinders or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum: So I went into the garage today and it felt pretty damp in there. I wonder if that's contributing to it. How could I lessen the dampness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16330" LastEditorUserId="16330" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T01:37:17.360" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T07:39:03.227" Title="Stumbling when starting after garaged" Tags="|honda|civic|misfire|cold-start|engine-start|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35679" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:12:01.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Volumetric Efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary limitation would be the intake charge timing.  The rotating chamber for the intake charge is limited to the volume of the chamber rather than the poppet valve style valve train that can be timed to allow for a longer period of intake as well as gaining the efficiency of an intake charge that is flowing into the combustion chamber without restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Restrictions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Limitation of intake flow&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Limitation of intake charge due to volume of the rotating chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it appears the reliability gains of removing a poppet style valve from the system seem to be meaningful the performance restrictions of overall power potential for the engine seem to be quite restrictive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:12:01.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35679" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:15:09.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I did read about this was that it worked best with fuels of natural gas and the like. Perhaps the lack of infrastructure for this fuel prevented any sort of penetration of the technology in modern designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be too soon. If the technology needs to be proven, the design cycle for modern cars is about 5 years or so isn't it? If it took 4 or 5 years to prove out the technology, work on it's issues, like sealing, measure it's longevity, performance, fuel economy, emissions performance, etc, etc, it might not be ready for inclusion yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11006" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:15:09.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35716" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:24:31.520" Score="4" ViewCount="9880" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following this adventure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18052/2006-infiniti-g35-blown-engine-following-kwik-kar-engine-flush&quot;&gt;2006 Infiniti G35 - Blown engine following Kwik Kar engine flush&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to put a new engine in my 06 G35 coupe, 6-speed manual (also with RAS, etc. but that shouldn't matter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing different versions of the VQ35 engine available, called a VQ35&lt;strong&gt;DE&lt;/strong&gt;, VQ35 &lt;strong&gt;Rev-Up&lt;/strong&gt;, and a VQ35&lt;strong&gt;HR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every forum I look at has different thoughts about what the differences are, which one I have, and compatibility (really, swapability) between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I have the &quot;Rev Up&quot; version, but am not entirely sure, and don't really know to tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any idea how I can tell which motor I have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming it's the &quot;Rev Up,&quot; will the HR work in its place? (With existing ECU / Harness, transmission, etc.)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to do this as inexpensively as possible. Thinking of pulling the heads from the current (really, really blown) motor and seeing if they're salvageable. If so, I can get a short block for a sane amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to suggestions. As always, thanks for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So Sad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufLdG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufLdG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;waiting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NeR2R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NeR2R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;engine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update, two years later...&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I wound up replacing the rev-up engine from my car with a non-rev from a JDM 350Z. It took quite a bit of work - these things are not as similar as one would like to think - but it runs just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2018-09-05T18:03:31.453" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T03:30:10.713" Title="06 G35 Coupe Engine Compatibility" Tags="|engine|infiniti|g35|swap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35680" CreationDate="2016-08-26T20:35:16.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your IACV hoses. They draw in water vapor, the water vapor dries, and leaves a sort of calcification build-up. Over the years this can develop a partial blockage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:35:16.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31841" CreationDate="2016-08-26T20:41:35.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the anti-shudder valve (ASV), D, in the image below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=72241.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article on how to delete the EGR/ASV&lt;/a&gt; – not a good idea on a diesel as the ASV provides some measure of protection against a runaway) it should be fixed open (and I would think quiet) when the car is running. This video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2JlqKihTg8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Noise of a Anti Shudder Valve / Inlet Manifold Flap ready to blow&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is similar and suggests impending doom (or at least failure of the valve). If the valve fails open, you probably wouldn't notice anything by the quiet (barring a runaway), but if it failed closed then you wouldn't be able to start the engine (or at the very least power would be severely limited).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqevF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqevF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Location of anti-shudder valve (D)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T00:05:19.207" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T00:05:19.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T21:17:17.840" Score="1" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;99 Saturn SC2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was bleeding my brakes and accidentally let some air into the master cylinder because I didn't refill the reservoir. I was going to take the master cylinder out and bench bleed it but the first nut that I tried taking off began to strip. I didn't try moving it much and went and bought some flange nut wrenches to see if they'd do the trick. Sure enough it didn't work. I decided to try using a vacuum on the reservoir to get the air out. I was slowly increasing the pressure and it actually seemed to be working. Until I believe I may have put too much pressure on it and ruined the master cylinder. I brought it up to about 25inHg (12-13 psi) and after that my brake pedal would go all the way to the bottom. I was really confused as to why this was happening and thought that maybe I had sucked up some air from the line that had gotten air into it, so I decided to bleed it. This helped a bit with the pressure, the brake is a bit more stuff but it is still going all the way to the bottom. I also notice that after pumping it it'll get more stiff then when the brake is released some brake fluid will shoot up in the reservoir(not a lot), it's similar to when air bubbles come up in the reservoir but I know it's just liquid since they're are no bubbles and I just see the surface move around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help! This is quite frustrating as I'm not sure how I'll replace the master cylinder with the but starting to strip. Any suggestions about max psi of vacuum on the reservoir in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/dQ5yntvc5C0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/dQ5yntvc5C0&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is the video I was following although I was doing it in the car, I should have looked at the pressure that he used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:17:17.840" Title="Did I ruin my master cylinder by putting vacuum pressure on the reservoir?" Tags="|brakes|master-cylinder|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T21:44:39.003" Score="7" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend drives an Audi TTS 08 and recently has told me that it costs £15 just for 22 miles in petrol to see me, that's why I apparently don't see him much. When I confronted him about it, he said it costs him that much as his car has a bigger engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true or is he lying? Taking into consideration the car model and its engine size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it may sound like a stupid question, but I have no clue when it comes to cars…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21949" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T23:30:18.750" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T12:54:59.423" Title="Engine Size and Fuel Consumption (cost of driving Audi TTS)" Tags="|engine|fuel-system|fuel-consumption|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35316" CreationDate="2016-08-26T22:28:20.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely you have leaking o-rings on the AC springlock connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkdAA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkdAA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discharge system, Replace all o-rings on all spring lock AC connections, be sure to Not score the soft aluminum when removing old o-rings. Lincoln specified thicker o-rings under a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin), so get the improved o-rings from Ford. Clean spring lock coupling connectors and o-ring grooves with maroon colored 3M Scotch Brite (cut in strips) before installing new o-rings. Re-charge system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNoZt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNoZt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFjkx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BFjkx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T22:28:20.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35689" CreationDate="2016-08-26T22:34:56.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2#q=audi%20tt%202008%20fuel%20consumption&quot;&gt;Google Search&lt;/a&gt;, his car should get 23 MPG city, which would cost about £3.82 for a one way trip (average £1.01/litre).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure this out for any car, first do a search to figure out what the mileage is. Just search for the year/make/model of the car. This should easily get you the figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, figure out how far the trip is, in your case it's 22 miles, which is just about the same as what the car would go for one gallon of gas, or 3.8ish litres of fuel. I also did a search to figure out how much the average litre of fuel costs in the UK (assuming you are in the UK since you used £ symbol in your question). Then just multiply out the amount of fuel used by the amount it costs for said fuel and there you go. Easy-peasy math. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you either get your BF to put up or shut up, and maybe you'll be seeing him a little more often or move on to the better model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T22:34:56.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35602" CreationDate="2016-08-26T23:00:08.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Paulster2 that there may be nothing to be done except to bit the bullet and have the repair done. That said I think it is worth emphasizing that with an aluminum head it is quite possible to over tighten them and damage the threads. Once the damage is done proper torquing may only serve to increase the damage, so there may really be no way to say who is to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are, law and tradition might dictate that the mechanic would (or would not) be inclined to take responsibility and make it right. For a mechanic who is paying attention it is sometimes possible to feel the damaged threads – the plug won't tighten down in a satisfying way and you may not be able to get it up to torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T23:00:08.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T23:00:31.447" Score="0" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Mercedes ML500 truck. I bought a replacement key from a third party and now I'm trying to program it. How do I do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21952" LastEditorUserId="9884" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T23:12:03.313" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T19:04:00.463" Title="2003 ML500 Reprogramming Key" Tags="|mercedes-benz|ignition-key|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T23:29:28.220" Score="4" ViewCount="4821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to remove one of the brake line nuts from the master cylinder with a box wrench and it began to strip on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't let it strip much so I went and got some flange nut wrenches and it still started to strip on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get it out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I have to replace the brake line and the master cylinder? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try repeatedly spraying penetrating oil on it and then cleaning it with brake cleaner once it gets moving so I don't contaminate the lines. Is that a good idea? If that method even ends up working at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T23:54:20.907" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T08:53:23.013" Title="How to remove brake line nut without stripping?" Tags="|brakes|brake-lines|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35695" CreationDate="2016-08-26T23:46:40.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some real difficult line bolt I would suggest you either a plier wrench (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&amp;amp;L=1&amp;amp;page=group_detail&amp;amp;parentID=1586&amp;amp;groupID=1500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&amp;amp;L=1&amp;amp;page=group_detail&amp;amp;parentID=1586&amp;amp;groupID=1500&lt;/a&gt;) or as a last-ditch effort use some vice grip pliers (ruining the bolt thereby).&#xA;Perhaps you want to use some gently applied heat (electric heat-gun)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T06:54:44.393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T06:54:44.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35355" CreationDate="2016-08-27T00:05:14.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming it is a ford E-series diesel van with dual batteries.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While you can read proper voltage on the batteries in the vehicle (they are hooked in parallel) they have to be disconnected from the heavy cables to fully check.  They also have to be externally charged fully and then load tested for current and voltage checks at the same time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I had tried when my batteries failed, which here is about every two years, on my F-series to test in the truck while hooked up.  But you just can not check for proper current loading while in the truck.&#xA;Very likely one battery is not putting out good current and under load drags the system down (battery number two).  I have seen both in my truck and my sons truck where the battery will indicate good voltages and with a battery charger show a FULL charge and even will run the headlights.  But just dies on the heavy current load of glow plugs and starter.  I have even seen a failed battery load so bad that a jumped battery will not start the truck.&#xA;Myself when it get to the state your video shows first thing I do is put in two new batteries.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have taken the pulled batteries and been able to put one that is still good in a car and start the engine.  Even have used the good battery out of the two my wife's car or my land crusier for another year.  But if I only replace one battery leaving the &quot;good&quot; one in the truck it usually fails in a few months so if you find a need to replace one do both of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T00:05:14.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35689" CreationDate="2016-08-27T00:07:31.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your boyfriend can afford a  Audi TTS. He should be able to afford the fuel to visit his lady as often as she would like. I don't think this a mechanical issue. Therefore model of vehicle and size of engine  is irrelevant I think the issue is more with boyfriend than the Audi TTS. I think a trade-in is order.... FYI I ain't referring to the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice by other comments...the other gentlemen echo the same sentiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastEditorUserId="16764" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T00:11:13.007" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T00:11:13.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35724" CreationDate="2016-08-27T00:35:42.987" Score="2" ViewCount="6152" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is it and why is it done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have to be done on a bench? For example, does &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35688/did-i-ruin-my-master-cylinder-by-putting-vacuum-pressure-on-the-reservoir&quot;&gt;this fellow&lt;/a&gt; (who ran the master cylinder dry while bleeding his brakes) need to pull the master cylinder, or just do the &quot;bench bleed procedure&quot; with the master cylinder in place in the car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T17:54:36.513" Title="What does it mean to &quot;bench bleed&quot; the master cylinder?" Tags="|brakes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35701" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:03:34.880" Score="4" ViewCount="4207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopped in my car one day, attempted to start it, no &quot;engine turn over&quot; at all, reminded me of when the battery is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after &quot;releasing the key&quot; noticed an odd noise coming from the engine, like a spinning motor that won't start (kind of like a stuck on windshield wiper fluid motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking under the hood, appears the noise is coming from &quot;the starter region&quot; and the starter itself was getting very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disconnected the battery and the noise stopped.  Noise continues even without the key in the ignition when battery is connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;97 Honda Accord in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T14:50:49.427" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T14:50:49.427" Title="Spinning/buzzing/whining from engine compartment without the key in the ignition" Tags="|honda|starting|accord|starter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35700" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:03:34.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some research, appears common problems are &quot;bad starter solenoid&quot; or &quot;bad ignition switch.&quot; I didn't attempt to diagnose the ignition switch as it turned out to be the starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, banging on the starter with a hammer then reattaching the battery, the spinning noise went away.  Until I tried to start it again, then once again it was &quot;stuck&quot; spinning again, but didn't actually start the engine.  Until hit with the hammer again.  Then stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out that a starter has &quot;two&quot; incoming electrical connections.  One (the smaller one) engages the solenoid to push it in.  As its pushed in it acts as a &quot;switch&quot; to engage the spinning mechanism (which uses the larger connection).  So apparently the larger connection is &quot;always on&quot; on purpose.  So if the solenoid gets stuck somehow and doesn't retract right, it could &quot;still engage&quot; the spinning mechanism even without the key in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically you can check if it's an electrical problem by checking for continuity on the smaller wire.  It should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be connected to voltage except when the key is on III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So fix for me was replacing the starter.  Works fine now.  The power of duralast LOL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4157" LastEditorUserId="4157" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T14:50:32.913" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:50:32.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35702" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:05:20.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diesel engine runaway is a rare condition affecting diesel engines, in which the engine draws extra fuel from an unintended source and overspeeds at higher and higher RPM until destroyed by mechanical failure or bearing seizure through lack of lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastEditorUserId="12955" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:31:49.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:31:49.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35703" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:05:20.660" Score="0" Body="This can be used to mark a situation when a diesel engine RPM builds up abnormally by itself" OwnerUserId="12955" LastEditorUserId="12955" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T01:48:02.433" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:48:02.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:10:14.123" Score="3" ViewCount="5546" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/732/symptoms-of-lean-or-rich-carb-settings-on-a-motorcycle&quot;&gt;Symptoms of Lean or Rich carb settings on a motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a '71 Honda CB350 that is new to me. I recently rebuilt the carbs and replaced the petcock and had it running pretty good for awhile. I saw your in depth answer here for a question about running lean or rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the plugs only two weeks ago. I pulled my new plugs and I saw that the right one was black - indicating that it runs rich (right?). The left plug looked ok (I think). I also saw that you mentioned that if it runs with choke open then that means it runs lean (right?). My problem that brought me to that thread was that I am not getting enough power when I am in the low gears. If I try to get into first nice and easy then the engine putters but gets going eventually. It works a lot better if I use a lot of gas to get through those first 2 gears.  The bike was running ok, granted only with the choke open for about 100 miles but now has developed this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I live in Denver so is altitude an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rebuilt the carbs I used the 105 main jet that I learned was stock. Should I change that to the 115 that was also sent with the kit for any reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate it as I learn how to trouble shoot this bike hopefully I gain some wisdom through this process that I can one day pass on to someone else. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21955" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T18:31:40.857" Title="Is my bike running rich or lean - I have both symptoms" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|fuel-system|carburetor|cb350-four|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35706" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:23:34.923" Score="3" ViewCount="3318" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between 3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 TORSEN limited-slip rear axles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Been trying to build a nifty 2016 Mustang GT Premium Fastback on Ford's website, and can't quite understand the difference in the available options for the limited-slip rear axles. Can someone explain the difference between the sizes I listed or what it means if the size is higher vs lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21956" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:44:03.547" Title="Difference between Limited-Slip Rear Axle" Tags="|axle|rear-differential|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35705" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:27:41.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gear ratio is the only difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3:73 to 1 is the lowest ratio which means it will be faster in the short run, stop light to stop light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3:15 to 1 is the highest gear ratio which means it will be faster on the top end, highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number means how many revolutions the drive shaft turns for one revolution of the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the first number is the Lower the gear ratio is, which means it will have faster acceleration on the low end (stop light to stop light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much Horsepower you have what these numbers actually mean in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16732" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T15:44:03.547" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:44:03.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:39:09.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother! I got suckered in on a new at the time 2015 Honda Accord, the salesman said if a seat got stained and they couldn't get it out they old replace the seat, well guess what , he lied, he also said if the paint got scratched they would touch up the paint, guess what it's all BS, $500.00 dollars out the window Don't get screwed like I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21957" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:39:09.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3059" CreationDate="2016-08-27T03:26:25.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the manufacture date. if it is before Nov. 1, 1999, there was a recall which &quot;EXPERIENCING VERY LIGHT STEERING VIBRATION / SHIMMY / NIBBLE AT ENGINE IDLE OR LOW SPEEDS (PARKING LOT TYPE MANEUVERS).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a STEERING:HYDRAULIC POWER ASSIST SYSTEM problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21959" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T03:26:25.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8784" CreationDate="2016-08-27T03:45:32.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1638 throttle stuck what happens is that some debris got on the throttle body near the throttle plate. The throttle plate motor is drawing more current from the computer than it's designed to. It is drawing more current than needed to move the throttle plate. It's not designed to move debris or gunk if it encounters an obstruction and can't close for a few milliseconds it will throw the code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem on my R56 MINI Cooper. What I did was use some lubricant spray oil into the pipe that connects to the throttle body to the valve cover. Then start the engine at idle and spray a few sprays of that lube into the PCV until you hear the engine rev up a little. Then put pipe back on and rev your engine a few tines so the throttle plate moves around a little bit. Then do this over again one time, then clear the code using scan tool code should not come back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it comes back then you need to do this again a few times or turn car off disconnect battery and take off the air hose to throttle and spray lube oil directly on throttle plate and body. While at it, clean with a rag then re-assemble. Start car also, then turn car off and unplug MAF. Then plug back in the connector to make sure it's secure. Start car and code should not return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21960" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T13:33:32.477" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T13:33:32.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35507" CreationDate="2016-08-27T06:43:42.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Paulster2 suggested, it was a dead cylinder, caused by a faulty fuel injector (see question update #2 and #3). As suggested by Justinm410, the injectors aren't too bad to reach on this engine and are definitely DIYable. I did have to take the intake manifold, throttle body and air intake off in order to have good access to the fuel rail, just to do the electrical troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fuel injectors on this engine are pressed through the fuel rail and only held on by a little horseshoe clip, itself held on by 2 Phillips screws. Y'all can probably imagine what happened when I tried to remove these screws after 23 years and 298,400 km. Yup, the Phillips head got chewed up pretty good as the screw was seized in place. I used locking pliers to crack them loose and then unthreaded them. I replaced them with thread-matched bolts with a hex head, my favourite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors, the plastic clips snapped off all 4, I now have zipties holding those connectors on. Nothing says DIY mechanic like zipties. I only ended up replacing the single faulty injector, I'll do the other ones if and when they go. I have my eye on #4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, to go for an extended test drive, as I missed my little baby this week. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T06:43:42.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T08:33:17.527" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just put new risers on my Honda VFR800 and upgraded the pinch bolt for the clip on bars to tritium . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to use thread lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What torque setting should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21962" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T00:19:39.543" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T17:38:49.310" Title="Honda vfr 800 vtec 2011" Tags="|honda|motorcycle|torque-specification|handlebars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T09:13:12.993" Score="1" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suzuki Celerio and since last week I noticed that there is a rattling noise from the engine bay while accelerating. It only happens when the AC is turned on. I have also noticed that the fuel efficiency has gone down considerably. Any suggestions as to why it is happening and probable ways to fix this issue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21964" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T12:20:53.337" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T12:20:53.337" Title="what could caise a Rattling noise while accelerating if the AC is on?" Tags="|suzuki|rattle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35659" CreationDate="2016-08-27T11:22:13.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a variation that I've thought about at great lengths. Even doing some of the preliminary math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IC engines don't need air.  They need &lt;em&gt;oxygen&lt;/em&gt;.  So... eliminate the valvetrain entirely, and have two sets of injectors:  One for liquid hydrocarbons, and one for liquid oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, I'm not considering the expense or safety issues in this brainstorm (I rarely do.)  I also have not really found a piezo or solenoid type injector, or even a HPOP diesel type, that would operate at the frequency and pulse widths needed at the LOx temperature around -300 degrees F, with crank RPM in the 7000 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's more to it than valve train elimination.  Imagine the adiabatic cooling from LOx returning to a gas in the combustion chamber.  I am confident with the right crank, rod, and piston materials, you could safely run 15:1 or 20:1 compression, and have a wonderful emissions profile as well.  The head would be reduced to nothing more than a thick durable injection plate... no moving parts.  Exhaust could be handled by a two-stroke or wankel style &quot;reveal&quot; port, with a modified Atkinson cycle with a longer exhaust stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very long way from reality (much like myself), but I do think it illustrates a practical variation on the OP's concept.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Compressing&lt;/em&gt; the air in order to inject it through a very small orifice would likely cost more power than the gains realized.&lt;/strong&gt;  But a tank of liquid oxygen already has the &quot;work&quot; put into it, is reasonably mobile/portable, and has that huge added cooling effect -- perhaps so dramatic as to scale back or virtually eliminate a water/glycol cooling system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be taking volunteers in a decade or so for Official Test Pilots.  The glory will be yours.    &lt;em&gt;cuz no way am I gonna ride in it...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T11:22:13.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35689" CreationDate="2016-08-27T12:54:59.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a direct answer to the question, generally yes, the larger the engine the more fuel they use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine is cold, it will use more fuel and stop start traffic will also increase fuel consumption for a given distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many engines and the TTS, are turbo charged and therefore use more fuel than their size would suggest. An example is in motorsports where a turbocharged engine has its capacity multipled by 1.4 to get an equivalent size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more factor is that engines are turned for economy or performance. The latter will sacrifice fuel efficiency for power, and that is also the case with the TTS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to echo the other answers, no it'll not cost £15 quid to do 20 miles, unless you're pouring it out of the tank at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T12:54:59.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35684" CreationDate="2016-08-27T13:08:47.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure what you have is the &quot;Rev-Up&quot; motor as you suggested. This stems from the year ('06) and it being a manual transmission. This information was derived several G35 forums as well as what's available as parts through my favorite online parts retailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major things which is different about the &quot;Rev-Up&quot; motor is it has variable valve timing on both the intake and exhaust cams, where the regular VQ35DE motor only has a phaser on the intake side. You can readily see where the cam sensors for the engines are at here in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhksm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhksm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the back side of the engine, with the regular VQ35DE on the left and the &quot;Rev-Up&quot; on the right. The outside holes on the Rev-Up engine are for the sensors on the exhaust cams. The standard VQ35DE doesn't need them. I'm sure there are other tell tale signs as well, but this is something which sticks out to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot confirm, but according to &quot;forum&quot; sources, there seems to be slight differences in the blocks as far as how tall the block heights are, as well as engine mount placement. I'm not sure if this is accurate, though. You definitely do not want to use the VQ35HR motor, as this engine is said to be about 80% new compared to the either of these. They all share the same bore and stroke, but the comparison kinda ends there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T13:08:47.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:19:05.817" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ml500 2003 benz truck am trying to get on the road today yare cant reprogram my key? Ihave the real key but it broke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21952" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:28:28.193" Title="I have a ml500 2003 i bout a key from some were eles am trying to reprogram my key am in Woodbridge v.a" Tags="|electrical|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-28T12:55:45.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35717" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:28:28.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only get it programmed at the Mercedes dealership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T14:28:28.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T17:48:06.287" Score="2" ViewCount="7883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a statement that a transmission will be damaged by flat towing in neutral, How? Doesn't putting a vehicle in neutral disengage the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21970" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T17:57:06.930" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T00:33:18.973" Title="Flat towing in neutral" Tags="|transmission|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35720" CreationDate="2016-08-27T18:57:21.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The transmission is always connected to the driven wheels, so when the car moves the transmission will turn. If the transmission is in gear then the engine will also turn, putting the transmission in neutral will break the connection to the engine. This means that the input shaft of the transmission is no longer turning, but everything else will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;big&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; problem with most, maybe all, automatic transmissions as their lubrication pumps are driven off of the &quot;engine side&quot; of neutral – in normal circumstances this ensures that there is lubrication in neutral, but when the engine is stopped and the transmission is being driven by the wheels it is a *Bad Thing®.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T18:57:21.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35720" CreationDate="2016-08-27T18:57:59.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike most manual transmissions that rely on &quot;splash&quot; lubrication, automatic transmissions use an engine-driven pump to circulate the fluid, which serves as both a lubricant and a hydraulic fluid for various servo actions within the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat towing in neutral spins various components in the output section of the transmission, many that require lubrication.  Since the internal pump isn't running, and length or distance of towing in this condition can cause permanent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driveshaft should probably be disconnected in these conditions if a flat tow is not avoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T18:57:59.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35699" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:44:31.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meh.  Extra, messy, unnecessary step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bench job done right: you need a set of master cylinder plugs.  New master cylinders usually ship with cheap plastic ones that will suffice.  You're just looking to drip paint-clouding glycol on your car, your workbench, your tools, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While common &quot;gospel&quot; says you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; bench bleed before mounting, I simply refuse to do it this way, and will never try it this way again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is a better way...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the MC is shipped virtually dry, and will create a bit of an &quot;airlock&quot; if you will, due to the compressibility of air relative to the hydraulic brake fluid.  An insane amount of bleeding often won't get you anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...  (I should charge for this, but today it's free) ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a 3-6 foot length of polyurethane clear &quot;fishtank&quot; tubing, with about a 3/16&quot; ID.  The ID should fit nice and tight over the bleeder nipple on the closest brake caliper or cylinder, for us LHD folks in 'Merica that's the left front wheel.  You'll need a length of tubing that can reach the master cylinder reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fender covers are &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; recommended when working around good paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now is your opportunity to take the reservoir off (if the new MC didn't come complete) and clean it &lt;em&gt;thouroughly&lt;/em&gt;, with brake cleaner inside and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once reinstalled and filled with &lt;strong&gt;fresh&lt;/strong&gt; brake fluid, the loose end of the tubing should be inserted into the reservoir, and secured with duct tape or a zip tie in such a way that it can't pop out.  The end of the tubing should be well submerged in new brake in the MC reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crack the nipple with the tubing.  Some cardboard under this arrangement might be useful, as it will still drip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now pump the brake pedal slowly and repeatedly, with full strokes from foot-off to floor, until you observe zero bubbles traveling through the tubing.   Close the nipple, remove the tubing, wipe up the inevitable drip or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to replace the bulk of the fluid in the MC at this point, if this process pushed a lot of older fluid out of the piston that appeared dark or discolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now bleed the entire brake system normally.  This process takes less time than a bench bleed, usually results in less of a mess, and gives a clear visual indication when performed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T19:55:36.583" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T19:55:36.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T21:32:17.803" Score="3" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;torque specification front and rear, 18mm caliper bolts ? I will be replacing the brake pads and rotors on my 2008 bmw 750li e65 , bmw repair manuals (bentley publishers) do not have a publication for my e65 model .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21973" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T23:20:45.027" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T14:10:18.763" Title="2008 bmw 750li e65 torque specification" Tags="|bmw|torque-specification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:57:42.373" Score="2" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;ac did not work. so I opened up the system and found there was no orifice tube. I bought one, put it in and pulled a vacuum. added 134. it worked fine for a while. then it slowly quit. opened up again and found crud in the orifice tube. so I flushed the system put on a new pump, condenser, filter/accumulator and another orifice tube. pump will come on 1 second and the gauges both come up the same as if there is an obstruction. I was able to flush the evaporator out and I think it's flowing good but don't know. does the low pressure switch affect that? any help would be wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21974" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T23:19:32.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T23:19:32.990" Title="97 ram ac problems" Tags="|ac|dodge|ram|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35672" CreationDate="2016-08-28T01:06:51.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no one has chimed in, I will at least give it an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that it would. The control unit for the diesel injection can limit fuel through the unit injector solenoids directly. The N109 takes a signal from the J491 crash control unit, although it also takes a signal from the J248 diesel injection control unit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem to certainly be there so that the fuel can be cut off in the event of a crash. It may also provide the function of a coasting fuel cutoff, but I can't be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the idea was to physically cut off fuel in a crash.. then I would say you would not want to do this in a coasting situation, as you would want to keep the fuel flowing and pressure in the fuel rail for the instant moment that you start to inject fuel again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think it is a simple assumption that this solenoid is only used in a crash and to physically cut off fuel flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not sure, you can always rule out the possibility by replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye out for the VW pdfs that can be found online on their engines, they are a great source of information about the design and function of the engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.9 Diesel: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T01:06:51.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35725" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:10:18.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;110 Nm is the proper torque for the caliper the steering knuckle bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6MWZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6MWZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T14:10:18.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35757" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:32:46.593" Score="5" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't seem to find the answer anywhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kid somehow smeared diaper rash cream on the rear quarter panel on our car.  The car is grey and you can see a white film.  I tried a few products with not luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a buffer might help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21987" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T12:23:33.483" Title="Diaper rash cream on paint" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22099" CreationDate="2016-08-28T14:35:49.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow.. Look how many different ways people have to clean glass! And rightly so.. Until you find a method that works for you, its such a pain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant go past a small spray bottle filled with water and a little (10-20%) methylated spirits, and a clean cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its cheap and easy, and being mostly water will wipe away with no streaks. The metho gives it a bit of cutting power through whatever is on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T14:35:49.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-28T16:04:32.703" Score="2" ViewCount="11138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi  I have a 2000 Honda Civic.  There seems to be a lot of rust in the coolant. I just got it back from the mechanic who repaired a failed water pump.  Any suggestions on what to do to fix this?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21989" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T19:15:31.950" Title="How to remove rust from the cooling system" Tags="|cooling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35733" CreationDate="2016-08-28T16:32:55.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two methods I've heard of for removing rust from a cooling system.  Both involve using a weak acid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first involves running a 50 / 50 solution of distilled water and vinegar in the engine for a day or two.  There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car-care/389207-citric-acid-to-remove-radiator-rust.html#post1063731562&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very good explanation of what he did here&lt;/a&gt;.  I used this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=1064637600&amp;amp;postcount=39&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on my 98 Mazda 626 with moderate success&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you specifically asked about is the citrus flush, which is attributed to Mercedes Benz.  You can even buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://dieselgiant.com/coolingsystem.htm#Citrus%20Flush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Citrus Flush kits&lt;/a&gt; for various Mercedes Benz vehicles.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_citrus_flush.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;There is a nice tutorial on this with lots of pictures here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1553937-mb-citric-acid-cooling-system-flush.html#post4432878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to this site&lt;/a&gt; you can just use a 10% solution of distilled water and citric acid, something like 2.2 pounds of citric acid in five liters of water.  You basically need to drain and flush all coolant from the system, then refill with the CA solution, run the engine for 15 minutes at 2500 rpm, drain and flush to remove all solution, then refill with coolant and check for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must point out that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2214543-post5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there is some anecdotal evidence that there is a certain risk to this procedure&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Search under my name...Ive done the citrus flush twice and both times other components have been taken out, like the radiator, water pump etc. Im not saying dont do it, just be ready - anything that is on the edge of failure will be pushed over. Have your credit card warmed up and parts supplier ready forewarned :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my opinion, if your cooling system is functioning properly, I would not do the citrus flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do this at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="7132" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T19:15:31.950" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T19:15:31.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-28T16:45:12.247" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an automotive engineering student who is working on a project to pick a car, start with its specifications and make it in IPG carmaker. Then find flaws in the design and try to improve upon it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is the right stackexchange to ask this in but any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21992" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T16:45:12.247" Title="How can I find all of the specifications of a car?" Tags="|car|old-cars|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17582" CreationDate="2016-08-28T19:29:08.160" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joe is absolutely correct. I know every time some one talks me into letting them supply their own parts it costs me time and money. If you want quality work and quality parts from a shop do your research. Look at reviews, ask about warranties, a good shop is priceless, and remember you car is a big investment. You don't question the man fixing your laptop. Or the $100/hour lawn mower repair man for a repair on a $300 lawn mower. I strongly disagree with shops using cheap parts and giving only 90 days warranties. You should look for 12 month parts and labor and life time on parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21995" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T23:59:05.353" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T23:59:05.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8972" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:10:39.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These combined linkages are called the windshield wiper TRANSMISSION. There are bushings in the linking arms that sometimes wear out or get rotten and disintegrate. Sometimes these can be purchased separately and be replaced. Other times a whole new transmission will have to be purchased. If it's an old model vehicle and parts are no longer available you may have to search a salvage yard (which may also present the same worn out condition) or a restoration parts company. If not you'll have to probably improvise your own bushing. You can search &quot;windshield wiper linkage bushings&quot; or just &quot;rubber bushings&quot; to begin finding results. If you're referring to the part of the arm that splines to the oscillating shaft (which is a less common failure) you have to pull back a locking clip in order to remove the old arm and then the new arm spring tension must be overcome to simply align the splines with the splined shaft with the arm at the right angle and push it on. If the shaft splines are also stripped then the whole wiper transmission will need to be replaced as I don't think the shaft and it's bracket are sold separately! A salvage yard is often a good solution then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:10:39.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32251" CreationDate="2016-08-28T20:15:40.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ford had poor engineering those years (1966 1980 but earlier models have the same issue after years of wear.) for auto trans linkage, most of the problem was in the steering column, they actually got sued and lost for the F100 trucks due to this, people got run over (killed) because they slipped into reverse all on their own. The problem is in the steering column linkage. Parts will be non existent for that model, you are best to install an aftermarket floor shifter.... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/03/automotive-lawsuit-history-unearthed-junkyard-style-the-ford-park-to-reverse-warning-label/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/03/automotive-lawsuit-history-unearthed-junkyard-style-the-ford-park-to-reverse-warning-label/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T20:15:40.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35731" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:20:02.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a soft, clean towel soaked with vegetable oil. If successful do a car wash later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid a buffer, the cream/zinc is still on your paint and you do not know how it affects your paint when rubbed/polished in. So I would try everything else first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T21:20:02.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-28T21:44:00.840" Score="6" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to expand my knowledge on the matter of impact in engine efficiency by using a traditional electromagnetic clutch A/C compressor, vs. the variable swash or &quot;wobble&quot; plate type compressors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read somewhere that there's a drop in horsepower, but how does the simpler system (clutch) stand against the &quot;smarter&quot; one (variable swash plate)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21999" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T04:31:52.757" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T20:27:59.277" Title="Impact of conventional clutch A/C compressor vs. Variable swash plate on the efficiency of an engine" Tags="|ac|climate-control|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2016-08-28T22:51:42.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it-yourselfers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you are going to do the struts yourself, save yourself time and aggravation by buying the struts with the spring already installed. It might cost more but it will be offset with the trouble and the safety issue. The tools required will be hand tools, the only problems are the large through- bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle are tight so you might have to use a big breaker bar and if that is still not enough, a cheater pipe on the end of it for more leverage. The other problem will be the stabilizer link nut. You can hold the center with an allen wrench and turn the nut off with the wrench but that didn't work too well for me. The whole nut and shaft will turn so you might have to do as I had to which is get a small pair of vice grips to hold the shaft while you back the nut off. Soak all the fasteners with some PB Blaster penetrating oil It is great stuff. Also it helps to have an assistant start the nuts at the top while you hold the strut up with the studs through the holes. Good luck and I hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22002" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T22:51:42.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35711" CreationDate="2016-08-28T23:32:50.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you installed an aftermarket handlebar accessory, the manufacturer should list torque specification. Otherwise, you will need to consult the manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using anti-seize on the bolts, not thread locker. Regularly inspect the bolts for any sign of backing out or movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T23:32:50.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T00:50:32.827" Score="3" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi guys I had my rear drum brakes replaced about a month ago. All new hardware, shoes, drums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my rear passenger ones are making a clicking noise at very low speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took the drum off to examine and noticed the front left shoe retaining clip could be moved with my hand with a fair amount of force but not strong arming it. The other shoe didn't have the same movement . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, how tight should the shoes be held in place to the backing plate? Should the spring and clip be able to slide around with a fair amount of force from your hand or do they need to be held in pretty solid? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDzDN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDzDN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drum&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Examined both sides at same time and only difference I could see was the bottom return springs weren't hooked up the same (hook ends are reversed) would that cause a click click sound? I've narrowed down the noise to the passenger side and that's the bottom half of the pic&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3J25J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3J25J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16330" LastEditorUserId="16330" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T16:33:53.997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T16:33:53.997" Title="Drum brake shoes question" Tags="|brakes|emergency-brakes|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T05:25:16.660" Score="1" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had an accident where my Toyota Camry 2004 slipped from a curvy road into a ditch. There was no frontal collision or at least no something that I noticed but the car did have a good slide on its side while damaging the doors, mirror, side marker light, etc.. Eventually however, the car does look really bad but everything seem to be functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly old car and I am not sure whether that makes sense to fix it at all considering the costs. What I am most concerned of however is the possible chassis damage. What are the chances that it was damaged to the point that I should just get the car written off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T17:34:45.623" Title="Possible chassis damage" Tags="|repair|chassis|accident|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-30T01:30:10.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16048" CreationDate="2016-08-29T05:51:17.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 main firing orders in use, they are called screamer and big bang, the difference doesnt lay in the firing order, it lays in the time between the firings of the pistons. The notorious sound of a superbike, that high pitched scream is a screamer engine, it fires in a sequential way, one piston after the other in a regular way, however the bigbang engine does it firing 2 of the pistons at the same time, giving it that lumpy sound, thats why the yamaha r1 with its crankplane sounds as it sounds, way different than a ninja or a cbr or a bmw s1000rr. You have to take into account that this difference in firing doesnt really change the torque or the power chart in a dynamometer report, the difference is more notorious in a bike with a 4 cylinder engine, because the big bang engine gives more time to the tires between power strokes to cope up with the power and grip with the ground, as opposite to the screamer engine, it just fires in a sequential way and doesnt give enough time to the tire to cope with the power when there is too much power, thats the reason why Mick Doohan became so famous in the superbike racing scene, in the 90s when no one wanted the screamer engine, when every rider was scared and complaining about the sudden way those bikes delivered the power, he was the only one who stayed with the screamer, everyone else raced the big bang, and he won the championship with the screamer engine, showing how good he was and how better the screamer engine is if you know how to give it gas, constantly smoking the tires, drifting some corners and leaving everyone in the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22006" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T05:51:17.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35753" CreationDate="2016-08-29T07:08:19.367" Score="14" ViewCount="32973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Mazda 3 2.3L with about 155k km on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was attempting to replace the AC pulley bearing, and had to manually turn the crank pulley to get the belt back on the AC pulley. After making sure the AC pulley was tightened, I started the engine to see if the AC worked. When starting the car, I learn a bang/clank sound, and went back to see that I forgot to remove the torque wrench I had on the crank pulley. The starter would no longer start the engine, and it seemed like it was spinning faster than normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that most likely the wrench caught when I started the car and stopped the crank pulley from turning, and subsequently caused the timing chain to jump, which is why it wouldn't start anymore. Also, I turned the crank pulley a couple more times and then it would no longer turn. I was told that means that the chain likely bent a piston when it jumped, which is a very costly repair.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to see if this all makes sense, and if it's worth taking the engine apart to fix, or if I'm better off getting a used engine with equivalent mileage to swap in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &#xA;As per Howie's suggestion I took the valve cover off to check the timing chain, and it looks like it's still on. And now the crank pulley is turning again. I turned it for one full revolution of the chain, so I guess it's not a bent piston/rod etc. &#xA;I'm not sure what could have caused it to get stuck before, but I guess it wasn't the chain. &#xA;As I was turning it the chain got some slack on it at one point but then got tight again. I'm guessing that doesn't make a difference.&#xA;Now I'm kind of confused as to what the cause of it not starting is, but I'm guessing since it's turning, the piston/valve isn't bent so it looks like I don't have to replace the engine just yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TM5hx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TM5hx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;head removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edSGv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edSGv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;timing chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: &#xA;As per Ben's suggestion, I got it at TDC (sticking a wooden dowel down the shaft, turning the crank pulley and stopping when it's at peak with the lobes pointing up) . The picture of the chain at TDC is below. There is some slack on it at that point but I'm guessing that's not an issue. There's also a close-up of what I believe is the balancer, and I can only see 19 teeth off the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98HBj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98HBj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zg5wT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zg5wT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I noticed when taking the spark plug out to try to get it at TDC was that one of the spark plugs was mangled. Seems like it was hit by the piston. Would that cause it to not start, or for the piston to be bent?&#xA;At this point I'm thinking I should just replace the spark plug and give it another shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XoYi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6XoYi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 3: &#xA;I replaced the spark plug but am hesitant to start it just yet lest I also break the new spark plug. I shined a light down the shaft where I pulled the spark plug, and it looked like the piston had hit the spark plug from underneath, or something got in between the two and damaged both. There was a small gouge carved into the top, as shown below. I'm not sure if that helps, but it's just another clue to solve this mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4wQI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4wQI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15404" LastEditorUserId="15404" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T21:40:25.173" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T18:38:26.127" Title="Timing chain jumped. Probably bent a piston. Is my engine worth fixing?" Tags="|mazda|mazda-3|timing-chain|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T07:36:49.907" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the damage is what you think, most likely the repairs would cost more than a replacement engine. You might need some machining done in addition of replacement internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would go for a full replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastEditorUserId="7450" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T15:44:03.020" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T15:44:03.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T07:56:32.143" Score="2" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Vespa P 150 x.It has a  is 150 cc engine. The fuel average is not too much good.Some one told me that for batter fuel millage there is a option that I may change my original Vespa carburetor with the 70 cc motorcycle carburetor.The average mileage of that 70 cc motorcycle is 50 km per liter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically if i change my Vespa 150 cc carburetor with 70 cc carburetor it will affect my ring piston/engine ? If no ,   what other aspects should i also see to change while using a 70 cc carburetor in P 150 x Vespa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need your kind technical opinion about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T00:03:57.143" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T18:05:10.917" Title="Changing Carburetor" Tags="|motorcycle|fuel-consumption|carburetor|scooter|vespa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T08:01:51.757" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before jumping to conclusions, you could take the rocker cover off and see whether the chain is still connected.  The fact that you were able to turn the engine over for a while quickly without it jamming may suggest that the chain snapped.  The valve gear may be in a safe position and it could possibly just be the chain that is now jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T08:01:51.757" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T10:53:27.643" Score="2" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at active noise cancellation system for buses. I have found &lt;a href=&quot;http://jalopnik.com/get-used-to-active-noise-cancellation-in-many-more-cars-1488181967&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;systems that have been developed by car manufacturers&lt;/a&gt;, but I am looking especially for systems designed by coach and city bus manufacturers, and unfortunately there is nothing on the internet about this issue. Can you give me some links or information about using this technology on buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grüße. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22008" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T14:10:49.940" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T14:10:49.940" Title="active noise cancelling for buses" Tags="|noise|audio|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-30T13:04:08.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35666" CreationDate="2016-08-29T11:58:15.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the symptoms I would expect for a bad water pump:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No heat inside the car&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Radiator and coolant hoses cool to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No heat inside the car is usually a pretty good indication, but no heat could also come from a bad heater core or heater core valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cool radiator and hoses means coolant is not flowing through the radiator.  This is either a bad thermostat or a bad water pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a water pump fail where the impeller was plastic and not spinning with the pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T11:58:15.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35731" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:23:33.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: when you're afraid to rub, try some clear packing tape.  Press on, pull off, repeat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, hooray kids!  Every time I think I've got it all together, they bring me back to earth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I've had years of experience getting gook off of and out of places where these substances should never be. There are plenty of times when I'm afraid to scrub it off for fear of spreading. Worst ever: that time I sat down in the wife's tan leather drivers seat with a little wee spot of motor oil on my back pocket. &lt;em&gt;shiver&lt;/em&gt; The stuff of nightmares!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my secret Dad trick for surface mess removal. I have never had it make the situation worse and, many times, it has completely removed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a nice big piece of clear packing tape. It's super sticky and you'll be able to see through it for precision targeting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully (at first) press the piece down over the nasty yuck that you're trying to remove. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yank the piece of tape free. Faster is better. There's all kinds of low level adhesion physics going on but I find that a quick pull removes more blech that a slow tug. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for improvement. Look at the surface. Look at the tape. Is it working?  Could you press a little harder without making things worse?  Did you reach good enough?  If not, return to step two with appropriate adjustments to your tape pressure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, do whatever makes sense for final treatment. For your diaper cream, you might consider a local wash with a super slick soap solution. Dish washing liquid might help but, if you go that way, remember to wax afterwards. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fixed so many problems with this method that in very close to saying that clear packing tape is more valuable than the fabled duct tape.  It's certainly helped me avoid some serious bouts of Spouse Rage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T12:23:33.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33667" CreationDate="2016-08-29T12:31:43.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the starter motor that had died. We had it replaced and everything's good again. The D light was apparently a mistaken symptom. They said there were no issues with the transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20237" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T12:31:43.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35808" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:20:56.243" Score="4" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Cologne_V6_engine#4.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4.0 OHV &quot;Cologne&quot;&lt;/a&gt; engine with 249,955 miles. The engine seems to run fine and there is no visible smoke in the exhaust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the #4 plug gets fouled every six months or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will a hotter plug help? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the engine worn out? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it the rings or head that's bad?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T17:40:57.263" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T18:50:16.313" Title="Cylinder #4 fouls spark plug every six months - Is my engine toast?" Tags="|engine|ford|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:42:20.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the engine is turning now I think there's a fairly good chance you avoided any serious damage. See my question and self-answer from when something similar happened to me: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4470/426&quot;&gt;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/4470/426&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try realigning the timing, using the procedure I did if possible: turn the engine until all pistons are centered or at least not at the top of their cylinders, then adjust the crankshaft to match, so that you don't have to worry about getting into an intermediate configuration where the pistons hit the valves. If you manage to get the car to start, it's probably okay, but it wouldn't hurt to take it to a professional to have them check it out. When I did this the timing was still off by a notch or two and the mechanic diagnosed and adjusted it for a very reasonable price: &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/4735/426&quot;&gt;Low power, bad gas mileage, smelly exhaust after engine work&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T14:42:20.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:49:31.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain jumped or broke while turning the engine with the starter, what could happen (if you are unlucky) is that a piston hits and bends some valve. The piston would probably survive. If so, it would not be quite as expensive to fix as you have been told.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22013" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T14:49:31.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35765" CreationDate="2016-08-29T14:58:35.850" Score="11" ViewCount="45462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to do some car fixes and want to know what precautions I must follow in order to make it safely. Specifically, I'd like to know is for what kind of work, the battery should be unplugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that everything related to lights must be done with a disconnected battery. But what about tasks like door replacement? There is obviously some electricity involved as well, for the window motor for example. Do I have to disconnect battery in that case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="13580" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T17:18:21.760" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T19:32:12.260" Title="When should I disconnect the battery to stay safe during repairs?" Tags="|electrical|battery|repair|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35764" CreationDate="2016-08-29T15:29:53.907" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are some general guidelines when working with electricity on vehicles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always remove any jewelry, to include rings, necklaces, watches, etc. If one of these items should come in contact between a hot and ground, it will instantly go hot (if there's enough amperage flow) and will burn into your skin requiring surgery to remove. These are a &quot;no matter what&quot; situation. There are also some physical reasons for removing these items as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the battery whenever working on anything which is voltage sensitive, such as the Engine Control Unit (ECU - vehicle's computer). This &lt;strong&gt;especially applies&lt;/strong&gt; when working on the airbag system (SRS), though other precautions need to be taken there as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect the battery whenever working on parts which need high amperage to operate, like the starter and alternator. These are items which, if the main power were grounded, would cause large issues for you and your vehicle. (&lt;em&gt;Think thermonuclear meltdown.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally no need to disconnect the battery when changing out anything which involves low current or anything which is switched. That means it has no live wires going to it when switched off. This includes doors, light bulbs, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:30:02.620" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:30:02.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:21:28.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The good news is that everything happened at low speed, because you never actually got the engine running. So whatever the damage is, it will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; be fairly limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news is that with this sort of problem, you don't know what you are going to find until you take the head off at a minimum, and just doing that isn't cheap even if there you find there is no collateral damage. If the valves are obviously damaged you really need to check the pistons and bearings as well, and that's even more expense on taking things apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO taking a chance on just replacing the chain, retiming the engine, and performing your local customs to ensure good luck is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a good idea. If you have bent a valve stem or cracked a piston crown, you want to find out when the car is in a workshop, not when the engine spins up to 2000 RPM just after you started it, and most definitely not while you are driving!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a local car breaker with an old replacement engine that doesn't look obviously past its sell-by date, that would probably be your cheapest option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:21:28.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35752" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:28:08.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot speak specifically to your model, but I will address how changing the carb will affect your engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are wasting your time trying to haphazardly swap out some other carb. You need to concern yourself with jet size. Carb jet size will control the amount of fuel getting to your engine. Stepping up to a leaner (less fuel) jet size &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; improve your fuel usage, but it also makes your engine run hotter. On top of that, you will need to pay someone with a dyno to retune your needle settings to the new jets. This cost will far outweigh any fuel efficieny improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do would be to clean your carbs and/or replace the jets with new jets of the same size. A dirty carb will absolutely lower your fuel efficiency. Plus, if you choose this route, your Vespa will still run- unlike so many other vehicles who have had carb mods attempted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:28:08.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35748" CreationDate="2016-08-29T17:34:45.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An autobody shop can make the critical measurements to specific suspension alignment points on the unibody, according to the OEM specification.  The vehicle is &quot;benched&quot;, usually on the pinch welds under the rockers, and then a pantograph and pointer system with accurate scales is used to measure cross-corner suspension mounting points and other critical reference dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat easier would be to get a four wheel alignment, and see how far out these numbers are, and whether they can eaily be brought back into spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the vehicle is safe and not terribly mis-aligned as to cause severe tire wear, there's no reason not to continue driving the vehicle, other than the aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T17:34:45.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35773" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:15:48.407" Score="7" ViewCount="2935" Body="&lt;p&gt;On engines with compression release valves, the recommended method for testing compression is turning the engine in reverse direction.  I'm working on a lawn tractor (with a Kholer K241AQS), so there aren't a lot of fancy electric systems.  What complications would arise from simply plugging my battery in backwards?  (Being DC, my starter should run in reverse direction.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22022" LastEditorUserId="22022" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T13:35:52.343" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T13:35:52.343" Title="Is it ok to plug in battery backward to do compression test?" Tags="|electrical|wiring|small-engine|compression-testing|compression-release|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35770" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:24:17.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just put a wrench on the crankshaft? Ignoring the electrical repercussions, I fear damage to the starter, too. Besides, if the starter on this tractor uses a sprag clutch (and probably most other designs), it wont engage backwards, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19401" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:24:17.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:29:58.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see how the timing chain could have jumped or broken in this situation. If the wrench was on the crank pully, and this is what stopped the engine, there was little to no force on the timing chain because there's little resistance on the cams. I'm guessing you probably damaged your starter gear or broke some teeth off of the flywheel, so the faster spinning sound you're hearing might just be the starter spinning in place and not actually cranking the engine. First, make sure the engine is actually turning with the starter and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22023" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:29:58.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35770" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:40:00.497" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This engine is equipped with a voltage regulator. Depending on the exact construction of the regulator a reverse current would be disastrous, especially the high current from a starter battery &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUc0q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUc0q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:40:00.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:57:10.877" Score="3" ViewCount="2103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Toyota Camry.  I have a new FOB and have followed all the steps to go into programming mode no problem but at the very end the locks cycle through twice showing that the FOB hasn't been accepted.   Its the same serial # as the original FOB and the funny thing is I thought the original one was broken but I can do the same with that one to and at the very end it cycles through locking twice. I can't get it to except the FOB what could be the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22025" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T00:10:04.537" Title="Cant get my Camry to accept the new FOB" Tags="|toyota|keyless-entry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35774" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:24:35.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I found for your 06 Camry, I assume you should use the Add Mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DU3Lo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DU3Lo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More detail on modes below&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After B step 5 see image 1 below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After B step 7 see image 2 below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After C step 2 see image 3 below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KuLJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KuLJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Image 1&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpIeW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpIeW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7wUo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7wUo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyFO5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyFO5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:24:35.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35755" CreationDate="2016-08-29T23:05:21.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I am assuming you mean an embedded system like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/ford-honda-noise-canceling-tech-new-cars-bmw-porsche-bring-noise-boosting-features-article-1.1168670&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cars Go Quiet&lt;/a&gt;, not a set of headphones optimised for a city bus.  The latter would not be on topic here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's great information (albeit somewhat technical) contained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/382/is-active-noise-cancellation-useful-in-vehicles&quot;&gt;&quot;Is active noise cancellation useful in vehicles&quot;&lt;/a&gt;  which may shed [eventually] the answer you are looking for, but I will try to explain the major caveats in simple terms here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is maintaining the correct &lt;em&gt;anti&lt;/em&gt; phase relationship between what is likely the entire vehicle as a sounding board, and one or more &quot;point source&quot; generators (speakers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cancellation effect can even be done with light (lasers) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRi4dv9KgCg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MIT Destructive Interference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, there are some very key criteria.  The energy must by culminated, focused, single-sourced, not combined with reflected waves, and ultimately maintain strict phase stability in the desired environment.  This is almost never true with real light, and only marginally the case with a carefully benched and controlled split-mirror laser beam.  Sound is a lot slower and simpler, and more stable as well.  The multi-source and multi-phase issues are still a problem, and exponentiate depending on the volume of the space you want to control noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a set of headphones, this is easily achieved, with only the space in the ear canal that needs to be carefully regulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a car, this can be done to some extent, but will be most effective in the lower &quot;exhaust rumble&quot; frequencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bus, there is likely too much volume to address the multi-phase and multi-directional sound, as well as expect a single point source to address this volume effectively front-to-back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only simple solution for a bus is to wear a set of headphones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:51:48.860" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:21:19.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27941" CreationDate="2016-08-29T23:24:15.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's the control arm bushings, you should notice that the wheel itself shifts a bit backward in the wheel well. It certainly is bad for other components as well as vehicle handling because you get instantly outwards toe angle on your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the bushing, get it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16836" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:24:15.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35764" CreationDate="2016-08-29T23:35:03.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A car battery isn´t capable of generating enough voltage to shock you (but the ignition coil can.) It is however capable of generating enormous current and can easily melt things and start fires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be careful with anywhere that is not fused. That means the battery itself and the starter motor. You should also be careful with electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circuits like lights and doors are protected by fuses so no real harm should result. If you are working on a part like a door (which contains electric windows, wing mirrors, etc.) and are worried that you could damage a cable and cause a fuse to blow, simply remove the fuse first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the wiring loom for the door has a plug on it, though, so you can unplug the cables for the door instead. But the reason for this is more for simplicity of manufacture than repair. (If you are replacing an entire door, try to find one from the with the correct plug on it as manufacturers can change the style from time to time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11767" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:35:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T01:33:44.733" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the buttons on climate control (power, fan, defrost, etc.) do anything.  The red and blue on the dials is lit up but the display that shows the temp and fan speed is blank.  Could this have anything to do with disconnecting the battery over the weekend?  I checked the fuses in the cabin and under the hood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22028" LastEditorUserId="22028" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T21:49:11.473" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T21:49:11.473" Title="2003 Yukon Climate Control Panel has no power" Tags="|ac|climate-control|yukon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35764" CreationDate="2016-08-30T03:04:31.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When welding. Both wires are advised, and there are other concerns as well. But they'll teach you this at welding school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22029" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T03:04:31.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T03:17:29.873" Score="3" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;High Mount Stop Light&lt;/code&gt; in my 2010 Honda Civic EX Coupe recently stopped working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it an LED array or is there a bulb(s) that can be replaced?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I fix this? &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I look up inside the trunk, there is a black cover through which I can see the rear factory-mounted speaker. Will this need to come off? How?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22030" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T14:52:27.093" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T17:36:08.340" Title="High Mount Stop Light in 2010 Honda Civic EX Coupe stopped working" Tags="|honda|civic|brake-light|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T04:02:19.020" Score="1" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was driving into town the other day , I noticed vibration on the truck . At first i thought it was just the road . Later I felt like some body comes behind me and gives me a little push on the truck while I was driving . When that happened the engine light turned on for a little bit . When I got to my place I noticed smoke coming out of my 2 back tires , it smelled really bad (burning rubber) . &#xA;Could it be a cylinder , caliper ?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just put a new caliper on 2 weeks ago , and also new wheels bearings on both sides . What could cause all of that to happen &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22032" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T05:25:39.110" Title="2004 ford f150 smoke coming out of my two back tires" Tags="|brakes|tires|brake-rotor|vibration|smoke|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T04:28:58.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1855" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is how does water/meth injection work? How does the idea of spraying this mixture into your fuel system lower EGT's and also provide more HP? What exactly does this mixture do to the fuel and turbo? I know in general water in diesel is a bad thing and people run water fuel separators to prevent this, so why are there kits doing the same thing in which people try and prevent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks John &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22033" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T06:02:37.753" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T06:41:15.337" Title="How does water/meth injection on a diesel work" Tags="|fuel-system|engine-theory|diesel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35784" CreationDate="2016-08-30T04:59:57.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, it sounds like the wheel bearings weren't installed correctly - too tightly or too loosely - that could account for the 'little push', as the bearings seize and then release. The smoke could be the bearing grease burning off (I've seen more than once - and done it once - where Lithium Grease was used on a wheel bearing. It burns off very quickly, and the bearing dies within weeks. You need to use high-temperature grease specifically designed for wheel bearings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T04:59:57.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35785" CreationDate="2016-08-30T05:08:42.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being both an insane Subaru guy as well as a diesel Powerstroke guy, I'm willing to pollute your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, both water and methanol (but especially methanol) injection provides cylinder charge cooling on turbosupercharged vehicles, due to the adiabatic expansion cooling and heat absorption that occurs with the injection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fanboy love of turbosupercharging (I say this because i was once a professor of such things... it's &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; supercharging, [added air] but when the exhaust drives it (opposed to a mechanical belt or gear drive [Mad Max] it's TURBOsupercharging...  Gosh I rant, sorry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deal is that when you compress things they get hot.  Hot bad.  Hulk smash, or at least melt pistons.  Intercool to the most you can possibly do, but the bottom line is that at high CFM consumption you may not get the cooling you need for the &quot;dyno bragging rights&quot; you may (or may not) have moist dreams about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter various sprays of stuff, hydrocarbons, water, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; alcohols.  Alcohols (ETOH [my favorite]  and methanol [second favorite, but blindness and insanity (plus death) really sucks]) have amazing cooling effects when sprayed at the right amount and pressure to create the right droplet size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Us Scoobydoo geeks sometimes consider running E85, which is probably only 80% corn liquor (aka ETOH, vodka, moonshine, corn-shot, etc.. the rest is petrol), or meth injection (super poisonous, and quite expensive) but an interesting note is that both alcohols have a much lower BTU content than gasoline.  However, the cooling effect allows &lt;em&gt;wicked fun&lt;/em&gt; compression levels.  That fun comes at a cost of reduced availability and expensive juice.  Top fuel dragsters use the &lt;em&gt;methanol&lt;/em&gt; variety of alcohol, which is wicked fast (due to the cooling) but also has a limited BTU content.  And there's simply not enough orange juice, ever.  Don't drink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Sorry, my laptop battery died and I didn't finish.  And I have &lt;em&gt;so much more to say&lt;/em&gt; [cough] ...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;POINT&lt;/em&gt; is, that compression creates heat.  It doesn't matter whether that comes from a roots supercharger, a centrifugal supercharger, or any one of dozens of turbosuperchargers that compress the intake oxygen. And &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THEN, those silly pistons compress even more.  Maybe only 8:1 on a turbo car (because of the heat, not the stress).  Again, compress a gas and you get heat.  Geeks may want to reference &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/airplane/boyle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boyle's Ideal Gas Law&lt;/a&gt;. (This in the 1600's, before anybody knew anything about anything. Yet this bloke knew way much.  An understanding of his basic premise 400+ years ago is a really nice tool in your box.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, so what?  Everything is fine as long as the &lt;em&gt;ignition&lt;/em&gt; event occurs when it's designed to (diesel or petrol, alcohol spray or pure).  When you compress and heat too much before the scheduled ignition event, you might &lt;em&gt;ping&lt;/em&gt;.  Knock,ping, predetonation; the devil has many names.  You don't want your fuel charge igniting too much before TDC on compression (A little, that's okay as &lt;em&gt;advance&lt;/em&gt;) such that the piston wants to spin the engine backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, you get no power. Second of all, you start putting stresses on the reciprocating system like no other.  You can ruin an engine quickly in this mode, from the heat and the bassackwards BMEP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, keep it squeezed, but keep it &lt;em&gt;cool&lt;/em&gt; so there is no pre-detonation.  That's where a really good &quot;tune&quot; comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can't intercool the intake charge enough for your desired power levels and prevent &quot;knock&quot; (pre-detonation), you need to spray water, or ethanol or methanol, or use mostly ethanol or methanol in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your budget or circumstances don't allow E85 fuel tank fills or methanol poison sprays, you probably need to reduce &quot;boost&quot; to a point that precludes knock, or be prepared to rebuild every 5-10k.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, you need a &quot;tune&quot; that can instantly recognize  cattywompus AFR and exhaust gas temperatures, and back out of the mix before catastrophic engine failure.  You might only have a few dozen revolutions for your computer to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(3a) Whatever you do, you need the flexibility to switch to RON 95 petrol in the middle of Des Moines at 2am when nothing else is available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the emissions side of things, even high non-destructive heat creates oxides of Nitrogen, which a basic three-way catalytic converter may have trouble dealing with.  While a &quot;proper&quot; stochiometric burn around 14:1 AFR might prevent engine damage, that also doesn't provide as much power.  Hotter is &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt;, as long as you can get rid of the heat before you damage things.  this is where Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) has come into play (Skyactive, Blue, Powerboost, &lt;em&gt;whatever&lt;/em&gt;) has really made some serious IC advances.  With the inherent cost of a separate catalyst to deal with NOx, and urea &quot;DEF&quot; injection for diesels.  NOx is basically &quot;smog&quot;.  Lean burn means more power, but we are expected to deal with our &quot;emissions&quot; in a proper way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesels follow &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the same logic, but are different in that they inherently use BMEP to create the combustion event... although it's direct injection technology that also has a huge effect on timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of diesel, I'm a big fan of &lt;em&gt;liquid propane&lt;/em&gt; as the right stuff.  Not only does this have that adiabatic cooling effect, it also has BTU content.  Water does not.  Propane is the Nitrous Oxide for diesels.  And Nitrous Oxide injection &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; has that cooling effect.  (Not to be confused with &quot;Nitric Oxide&quot;, which is the subject of Viagra and similar and has to do with performance of other equipment... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T06:41:15.337" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T06:41:15.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35784" CreationDate="2016-08-30T05:25:39.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Pete: I was thinking that as a possibility as well. If the bearings were over tightened they would self destruct within an hour and would be a catastrophic failure. I had that on 1989 VW Fox destroyed the race, pulverized the bearings and with such force it the retaining nut milled the spindle smooth as the drum impacted the spindle. This happened on both rear wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it would be the calipers seeing that they were new. One possible explanation for the vibration  and the smoke from the tires as well a light on the dash board. Were the parking brakes not fully released? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T05:25:39.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35770" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:07:54.137" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the starter drive is the typical spring loaded drive gear that engages when the starter motor turns in the &quot;forward&quot; direction, then disengages if the engine starts running and overdrives the starter gear forcing it to disengage. So if you run the starter motor backwards, the starter gear won't engage at all, and the starter will just spin. And without being loaded down by the force needed to spin the engine, it may spin too fast and become damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, even if your electrical system could handle it (and it almost certainly can't), the starter won't run the engine backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jOfgr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jOfgr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/1000-2050550u-2050540u-cub-cadet-garden-tractor/engine-k241aqs-10-horsepower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;partstree.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3038" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T06:07:54.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35792" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:10:12.883" Score="4" ViewCount="2471" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know what socket set to buy to do some repairs? In my case it is 2003 Toyota Camry and I need to do the following tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace mirror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reattach front bumper cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a direct answer is great, I'd really like to know how to find such information myself. There are few related questions I have as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know that there are metric and imperial sets available. I also know that Camry can be Japanese or American. How can I identify that as I assume that might make a difference? (Was bought in Australia).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the same socket set fit most jobs on the same car or multiple sets are usually required?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am an amateur and not sure when I will use these tools again so I don't want to spend too much. The price range for seemingly similar tools however is quite wide and I am not sure where should I target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T07:03:02.347" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T04:24:42.357" Title="Identifying right socket size" Tags="|tools|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35785" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:11:54.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, with a bit less enthusiasm…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When injected into the cylinder during the compression stroke the water (or other magic fluid) absorbs heat,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the fuel burns the water turns to vapor, increasing the volume of gas above the cylinder, and absorbing more heat,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More expanding gas pushes the piston down with more enthusiasm and eventually races out the exhaust manifold where it encounters the turbine part of the &lt;em&gt;turbosupercharger&lt;/em&gt; which it sets to spinning (faster and maybe with more torque due to the mass of the water vapor), thus helping cram more air into the cylinder the next time around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And all of this goodness happens without having to mix water with the fuel which does horrible things to the injection system – and since oil and water don't mix so well which may not even catch fire…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T06:11:54.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35790" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:19:32.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want metric tools. A Camary, whether made in the US or in Japan will have metric fasteners. Even some US designed cars have metric fasteners (even we know that our measuring system is bonkers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Socket sets come in different &lt;em&gt;drive&lt;/em&gt; sizes, which are always (in my experience) stated in US measurement. The common ones are 1/4&quot;, 3/8&quot;, and 1/2&quot; and they have overlapping ranges of sockets. For starters a metric 3/8&quot; drive socket set would probably be quite useful, both on cars and in other parts of your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set may skip some sizes, because not all of them are in common use. But as best I can tell there is no good way to select the ones to skip. For example, Harbor Freight a purveyor of not awful tools and not awful prices in the US skips some sizes in their sets that seem to work well for Japanese cars, but which do not work well for German cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pricing of sets (in the US at least) is so much better than the individual tools that it makes sense to buy the biggest set that you can talk yourself into. If you are picky about such things it is worth checking to see if any tools you buy in sets are also available from &quot;open stock&quot; so that you can replace missing tools and/or expand the range of your set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that there are many, many choices for what you put on the end of the socket… Most sets will include 6- or 12-point sockets for conventional nuts and bolts. But you may also need hex (internal 6-point), or Torx (6-pointed star), or triple square (internal 12-point), and those are just the common ones…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're not in the US, so I can't recommend specific places to look at tools, but I'll be if you poke around you'll find stores that specialize in tools at decent prices. &quot;Professional&quot; tools are often priced at a premium that has very little to do with the usefulness of the tool – the value comes from things like delivery method, level of service, warranty, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the mirror and bumper cover may be pushing the range of a 3/8&quot; drive set. The mirror might be closer to a 1/4&quot; set (or may not use sockets at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T06:46:52.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T06:46:52.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T06:26:49.213" Score="5" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of this, and in Google searching for this, I did not find anything on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems reasonable that in the below scenarios, in measuring the condition of a used engine&#xA;engine (a) gets much worse than it's stated fuel economy&#xA;engine (b) gets exactly its rated fuel economy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be reasonable to hypothesize that engine a is not as in good of condition as engine b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my question: How much value would you place on fuel economy as a measure of an engine's condition after a used lifespan? If a 15-year-old engine gets its rated fuel economy in the vehicle, is it likely in good condition? If it gets much worse fuel economy, is it likely in bad condition? How much information can be had from looking at fuel economy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19875" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:03:56.317" Title="Fuel economy a reasonable measure of a used vehicles engine condition/reliability?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|used|reliability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2016-08-30T07:00:07.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have space for a table or a rolling cart I'd highly, highly recommend one – even if it is just a picnic table outside or even a folding card table. The ability to put tools and parts down at a comfortable working height and to keep them organized is a transformational experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T07:00:07.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33382" CreationDate="2016-08-30T09:24:43.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another factor is the combustion chamber geometry. @Zaid already mentioned the piston-to-head clearance. But as your bore grows, so does the surface area of your combustion chamber, so you will lose more heat to the walls, reducing efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing the stroke also reduces the torque produced by the engine (the force of the ignition is applied to a shorter arm), making the engine less drivable at lower rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T09:24:43.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35770" CreationDate="2016-08-30T10:06:48.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if there are no polarity-sensitive electronics to damage and the starter motor was able to engage, it is unlikely that the motor would rotate backwards anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most car starter motors (in fact all that I have worked with) do not use permanent magnets, instead opting for coils for the stator. I suspect the same may be true for your lawn tractor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore both the stator and rotors are using coils from the same feed and reversing the polarity of the feed reverses the direction of the magnetic fields on both the stator coils and rotor coil - the result being that the motor will rotate in the same direction as before anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a permanent magnet motor, you effectively just reverse one magnetic field (the rotor) when reversing polarity, and that it why they will rotate in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22036" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T10:06:48.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35793" CreationDate="2016-08-30T11:48:27.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, yes.  As engines get older, they do get less good fuel economy, and when they are totally made over, their fuel economy improves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, generally the time you're trying to determine the condition of an engine in a general way is when you're buying.  And when you're buying, you can't necessarily get an accurate fuel economy rating from the original owner, as you don't know how his/her driving habits and driving conditions (city, highway, pulling, a mix of the above, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, generally, when buying a vehicle, you ask mileage, oil changes,  repairs, and other concrete information.  On the other hand, when it's your vehicle, you can make better guesses by looking at the spark plugs, running compression tests, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably why you don't find any information on Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22022" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T11:48:27.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35783" CreationDate="2016-08-30T12:51:19.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's a black cover that you can see the speaker through, then I am assuming that you have the LED array for your lights. You'll have to go in through the back seat of the car and remove the plastic cover that sits partially behind the back seat and underneath the rear window. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside of this cover are speakers and your high mount light assembly. The light itself should be easy to remove at this point once you have the plastic cover piece out of the vehicle. I believe just a few clips and screws hold it in. Then, you just swap out the whole light unit since it's the LED version and replace everything the way you took it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a youtube video that shows you how to do the light change. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRXdqLtCAMs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRXdqLtCAMs&lt;/a&gt; Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: for the sake of being thorough, thought I'd add how to change the bulb if it's not an LED array. The single bulb version is very easy to change. You pop the trunk and look right underneath where the light assembly sits and you'll see a wire leading to the bulb socket. The socket just twists to release the pins and then you can pull it out. The bulb itself should be gently pulled from the socket and then the new bulb can be pushed in. BE AWARE: it's a good idea to use a clean cloth or even a glove to push the new bulb in because oils from skin can shorten the life of bulbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T12:57:54.803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T12:57:54.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35638" CreationDate="2016-08-30T13:33:37.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the coil pack on cylinder 5 started to malfunction then even swapping the coils around could still give the same trouble code because when a coil makes a plug miss a few sparks generally that spark plug will have gotten covered in fuel and fouled out basically. Check and clean or replace that spark plug then swap the coils around to see what the new outcome is. Also, if you don't reset that cylinder 5 code then it's gonna continue to show up on your scanner anyway. The scanner should have an ERASE CODES option which is necessary to do before continuing the process. In my experiences you're best bet is to go ahead and replace that coil and plug and reset the trouble codes, and I would recommend changing out the others before too long because the older ones are gonna struggle to keep up with the voltage that the one will be generating because all coils and plugs slowly get weaker over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T13:33:37.343" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35816" CreationDate="2016-08-30T14:04:01.117" Score="13" ViewCount="4840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2007 Pontiac Torrent that I (mostly) installed a hitch on. The hitch mounts to 8 points. 6 points are existing welded in nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 of these welded nuts are causing me trouble. They've rusted so badly I can't get a bolt through them... They are in the frame, so I don't think I can remove/replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any wonderful suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22041" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T07:08:54.477" Title="Trouble installing new bolts into rusted welded nuts" Tags="|rust|nut|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35804" CreationDate="2016-08-30T14:08:32.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Save for the trouble of going to the store this is a pretty easy fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take one of your bolts and go to a hardware or auto parts store and ask for a tap to match. Then run the tap through the holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tap should go pretty easily. If not double check that it's the right size and then work by turning it in a turn it so and then backing out just a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T14:26:55.197" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T14:26:55.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33474" CreationDate="2016-08-30T14:10:41.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely should get the cars fault code memories read. Ill bet this will provide you an actual informational message about the meaning. It could just be a faulty oil level sensor, but its guesswork unless you know what the car is actually telling you.&#xA;These cars use a databus and pass binary messages between electronic control units so getting wiring diagrams wont help.&#xA;You could try owners forums in your area and post a request for someone to do a VCDS scan for you.. Or failing that pay the dealer to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17586" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T14:10:41.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35760" CreationDate="2016-08-30T14:23:37.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the plug out of that cylinder and inspect it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know what to look for, go to any local parts store and find a Haynes repair manual. Look in the back for an in-color page with pictures of bad-burning sparkplugs. That should help you determine what's fouling that plug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the rings in that particular cylinder have worn down quicker than the rest.  This could be due to many reasons. Something as simple as a few grains of sand could've gotten in there and worn down the walls or rings. They don't have to be worn a lot, just enough to allow oil to blow by which will slowly foul that sparkplug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't hurt to try a spark plug spacer/adaptor. You screw the plug into the spacer/adaptor and then screw the adapter into the engine where the plug goes. It backs the plug up a little ways from its usual seating so whatever chemical keeps fouling it can't get to it as easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20273" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T18:31:48.993" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T18:31:48.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35793" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:03:56.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of factors that contribute to fuel economy. As others have mentioned, driver style, driving condition (hwy/city), and vehicle condition/weight (roof rack, towing, loaded full of kids/gear) will all have an effect on fuel economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to answer your question, we will assume an unloaded car with a mixed duty cycle and a reasonable driver (some WOT, but usually moderate throttle driving). You cannot immediately assume one engine is in worse shape than another, because there are several other factors at play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major factor that is easy to check is the state and condition of the tires. Under-inflated, mismatched, or balding tires can cause significantly more drag than new tires. Ill fitting body panels will also cause more aerodynamic drag, but less obviously, missing panels under the engine and rear axle of the car can cause significant drag in a much less visible area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An errant o2 sensor or spark plug could also be to blame for the poor economy, and such consumable items I would not necessarily classify as representative of the state of the engine. Old or dirty transmission or engine oils could also be causing poor vehicle performance, the latter would cause significant wear on the engine, but the former would only cause the engine to work harder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things considered, high fuel consumption almost certainly indicates there is something 'wrong' with the car, but you cannot immediately pinpoint the engine as the culprit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:03:56.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29920" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:06:25.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't find any corrosion around the battery terminals, take the battery down to the parts store and have them load test it. That will tell you if it's just the battery. It could be the battery has a &quot;surface charge&quot; which will give it enough juice to start it a few times, but on the off chance you need to crank it over a little bit more, it will die. This is usually caused by a weak cell inside the battery. If there is corrosion around the terminals, ensure you get that cleaned up to allow for proper charging, with or without a new battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:06:25.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35804" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:16:18.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried completely drenching them in PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil? I've seen it work wonders in the past for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aY2F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aY2F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd cover them in a layer of that, and let it sit for several hours. Odds are, it'll dissolve enough rust that you'll be able to work a bolt into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1743" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:16:18.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:17:06.163" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brakes on my 2011 ford explorer make a clicking noise and grind when stopping(front).  I have changed the rotors (front) and the pads twice but still get the same results.  Are there any suggestions on what to try next?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22040" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T15:29:05.250" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T16:34:47.073" Title="Brakes 2011 Ford Explorer" Tags="|ford|brakes|explorer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35821" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:21:49.863" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;A query regarding used cars in general. Most owners don't wash their cars properly - rules such as microfiber towels only, proper shampooing + regular waxing etc. all go amiss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what extent do such practices result in irreparable paint damage? It is easy to find cars that have been garaged and regularly washed albeit with the wrong technique so can a modern clearcoat survive this sort of treatment?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T18:14:18.730" Title="Paint quality of used cars" Tags="|paint|paint-clearcoat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-08-31T15:45:31.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35812" CreationDate="2016-08-30T15:49:18.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you collapsed the calipers, did both pistons in each caliper compress fully? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It appears the calipers are on slide pins. Is everything moving freely? What I'm wondering is if one (or both) of the calipers is not working correctly, providing even force against one of the pads. In effect, wondering if it canting over during braking. This could cause the noise you are talking about, even with the new pads/rotors. It forces just a small part of the pad to do the work. Pull the pads from the noisy side and see if the friction material is even or not. You may need to check each side using something like a digital slide caliper. I had this issue on my truck a few months ago. The difference between one side to the other of the pad was about 2mm. Would be hard to see with the naked eye, but easily seen with the caliper. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T15:49:18.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23428" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:19:00.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been bothering me for a long time, so I did some cross referencing with some performance shock manufacturers. One I found was from KYB. It shows the shock for the front of the 68 Beetle to be PN: 343143 (OE Replacement) and PN: KG4520 (Performance Upgrade). The interesting thing about these two shocks is, it shows the travel for the shock to be at 5.12&quot; and 5.31&quot; respectively. That's over twice the travel for what the Koni D 80-1787 shows. Here are the full travel specs for both of these shocks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PN:            Extended Len:        Compressed Len:      Travel:&#xA;343143         17.01                11.89                5.12&#xA;KG4520         17.32                12.01                5.31&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each case, there is at least extra length over the Koni shock as well. The performance shock from KYB would get you some extended length over the OEM replacement, while putting the travel more in the middle range of you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this helps, but it seems to me there are longer shocks out there for your application. If worse came to worse, you could extend the stud some to put the shock down into the compressed position further. It's crazy you cannot get one with enough travel to make it good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T00:49:00.163" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T00:49:00.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35804" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:41:03.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tap/die is not the same thing as a thread chaser - while it can be used that way, you have a higher risk of cutting new threads instead of renewing old threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper thread chaser will clean up old threads with a much lower risk of cross threading. They can save threads that appear destroyed and are well worth the expense.  Here is a Craftsman set that I use with great success (as of a couple years ago, still made in the USA):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPVrx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPVrx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman thread chaser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Confusingly, this set is labeled as a &quot;tap and die set&quot; but you can see in the picture that the threads are much less aggressive than a regular tap or die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet if you use some penetrating oil like PB Blaster and one of these thread restorers, those welded nuts would clean right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastEditorUserId="20132" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T16:49:30.597" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T16:49:30.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T16:48:14.823" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Mazda 3.  I have electric windows.  Then passenger side window switch only works to roll the window up.  It does not work to roll the window down.  I have to use the window switches on the driver side to roll the passenger window down.  Does anybody know what is wrong and if it might be an easy fix?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22043" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T01:04:19.987" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:04:19.987" Title="2004 Mazda 3 - Passenger side window receives signal to go up but not down" Tags="|electrical|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35817" CreationDate="2016-08-30T17:21:20.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the passenger windows switch is bad, you can remove the switch and use an ohm meter to check continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verify continuity as indicated in the table for all 3 switch positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Closed&quot; is windows up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Open&quot; is window down. This is the one I suspect does have continuity or very high resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Off&quot; is neutral position when not being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1sjo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D1sjo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uL6rU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uL6rU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T17:21:20.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35813" CreationDate="2016-08-30T18:14:18.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint damage is caused by stone chips, hail, clumsy parking etc. &quot;Improper washing&quot; is so far down the list as to be unnoticeable. Sure, you're going to find a few scratches if you go over the paintwork with a microscope, the best way to cope with that is to ignore them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16732" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T18:14:18.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35750" CreationDate="2016-08-30T19:27:54.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC on the 2.3 there is no keyway to keep the crank gear and balancer aligned. If the engine is spinning and has compression you probably spun the balancer and it's out of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set piston 1 at TDC and line the balancer up as indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myHaC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/myHaC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is an M6x1.0 bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be 20 teeth off the blank space on the balancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example using a scope, this came in after a head gasket replacement and you can see the balancer is slightly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow: Cylinder 1 Compression&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Blue: Crank Position Sensor&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Green: Cam Position Sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87Gai.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87Gai.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find TDC without special tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull all the spark plugs and remove the cylinder head cover if it hasn't already been removed. Put a long screw driver or similar in the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the crank clockwise until the screw driver is at it's peak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the rear of the camshafts there will be slots that should line up with the cylinder head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgUJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgUJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make sure it's dead on use these tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKfKY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKfKY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009SB70N2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-ASMFM2330-Piece-Mazda-Timing/dp/B009SB70N2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin goes in a slot on the left side of the engine and locks the crank shaft at TDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on these engines the crank bolt holds the balancer with a diamond washer and needs to be replaced if removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way compression check the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastEditorUserId="14393" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T22:45:27.377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T22:45:27.377" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35824" CreationDate="2016-08-30T21:05:47.523" Score="3" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the opportunity to drive around a 1996 Lincoln Continental before I purchase it (or another car) and it runs great except that the rear air bags have a slow leak and the &lt;code&gt;Check Ride Control&lt;/code&gt; indicator light comes on occasionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave it overnight then the airbags are low in the morning. When I start it up, it takes about 20 seconds to fill the airbags and then it runs fine and I usually don't hear the compressor come on all day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the windows open today and I noticed when I went over a few bumps I could hear a sound like air venting. Not like a slow leak but short high pressure blast of air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the short and long term repercussions of driving this car without fixing the leaking airbag(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2727" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T15:45:09.040" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T22:55:20.770" Title="Repair or live with 1996 Lincoln Continental Check Ride Control" Tags="|suspension|supplemental-restraint-system|lincoln|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35823" CreationDate="2016-08-30T21:52:55.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking rear air bag (common)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking rear bag solenoid. (less common)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaking air line (Rare)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time one or both bags have a leak and will get worse over time, the worse the leak the harder it is on the compressor and will eventually cause it to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace both rear air bags and solenoids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the compressor filer dryer. (will keep moisture out of your new bags)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,1996,continental,4.6l+v8,1188109,suspension,air+spring,15005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rear Bags&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,1996,continental,4.6l+v8,1188109,suspension,air+compressor+dryer,16633&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Filter Dryer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,1996,continental,4.6l+v8,1188109,suspension,suspension+solenoid,13015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solenoids&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T21:52:55.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35741" CreationDate="2016-08-30T23:18:05.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two states to consider, the A/C on state and A/C off state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the off state the cycling clutch is far more efficient. The engine only has to spin an extra bearing. This is compared to spinning the whole swash plate along with all the friction it brings internal to the compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the on state it's far less clear cut. The swash plate changes the angle to provide just the right amount of pumping at all times. This is more efficient than full on. On the other hand on off on off nature of the cycling clutch should average out to about the same as the swash plate, theoretically that is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11911" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T23:18:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35665" CreationDate="2016-08-31T00:17:35.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are a few root causes for you consider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bent shift fork(s)&lt;/strong&gt; - Your shift forks slide various gears along your primary and secondary shafts of your transmission.  Every time you depress or raise your shift lever with your foot you are turning a drum called a 'shift drum'  This drum has grooves on cut into it that move the shift forks along a shaft and move the gears to engage or disengage them.  If you had a particularly poor shift a gears dogs or slots can bounce off one another forcing the shift fork to bend as a result.  A bent shift fork requires the engine cases to be split in order to to remove them and resolve the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Broken shift drum&lt;/strong&gt; - A broken shift drum, in any way, is a very rare occurrence.  The shift drum spins and has grooves cut into it to slide shift forks back and forth to slide gears along transmission shafts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By6kq.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By6kq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue with Shift Linkage&lt;/strong&gt; - You could very likely have an issue with your shift linkage.  Many times, the return spring for the shift lever will wear out and eventually break.  You can validate by putting your rear wheel in the air in order to spin it and try and operate the shifter by hand while spinning the wheel.  If the shift lever is not returning to it's original place properly you can dig into it further to discover the cause.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T20:38:02.370" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:38:02.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T01:19:55.390" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I move or travel with some frequency and I run into a lot of difficulty to find a good mechanic in places new for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to check their service by looking they perform the service (also and mostly because I'm curious), but often they get upset at me for doing that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are many professional mechanics here, how would you search for a good mechanic, when you can't do the job yourself for some reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13580" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T03:26:45.097" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T05:18:37.787" Title="Strategy to identify a good mechanic?" Tags="|servicing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-31T07:33:39.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5986" CreationDate="2016-08-31T01:41:24.450" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tighten lubricated threads with torque wrench set to about 5 ft lbs less than specified then check the castle nut alignment. Torque one ft lb at a time until castle nut is aligned. If the nut aligns within 1 or 2 ft lbs then leave it there since most torque wrenches may be less than accurate.  Be careful not to exceed the maximum torque for the stud diameter, thread pitch and nut as specified by industry standards.  Exceeding these torque standards will result in catastrophic failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22054" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:41:24.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:18:47.477" Score="2" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to identify a certain part but after extensive googling still don't have an answer. So the part that I am looking at is located just behind the front bumper cover and above the engine under cover (Left) of a 2003 Toyota Camry. It is a black container of some kind. I have read the user manual from cover to cover but couldn't identify this part. Actually I found all the manuals describe only the parts located right under the bonnet while the one I'm after is a bit lower, closer to the wheel. I couldn't identify anything that is connected to it as it's hidden from sight. I realize that's a bit vague but any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9yvf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9yvf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="3150" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T01:50:48.197" LastActivityDate="2019-02-13T15:10:20.803" Title="Identifying a part behind front bumper cover" Tags="|part-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35829" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:19:56.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a difficult question, but from an &quot;honest&quot; mechanic's persepective, I'll say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have the job done quickly, correctly, or inexpensively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick any two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T03:19:56.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35831" CreationDate="2016-08-31T04:17:23.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one is windshield washer. I would assume the other one is engine coolant overflow bottle. One way to test that theory is to drive a good distance and let the engine cool. If the bottle is scalding hot then you will know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T04:17:23.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T04:21:08.543" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike used and it had a short in the left control and melted it. I bought a new one and the bike has no power in the run position but in the park position it has break lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22056" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T20:25:08.360" LastActivityDate="2018-06-27T15:39:00.273" Title="99 Suzuki Savage 650" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|suzuki|ls650|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35831" CreationDate="2016-08-31T05:04:58.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black makes me think that it might be part of the air intake system. Could be the intercooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have access to the car, could you describe it a bit more? What's connected? How big is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T05:04:58.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35829" CreationDate="2016-08-31T05:18:37.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is by personal reference from someone you know and trust. Since you know the person and are likely to continue your relationship with them, they really don't have any reason to be less than completely honest with their assessment of the mechanic's services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T05:18:37.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35804" CreationDate="2016-08-31T07:08:54.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taps come in different styles. A starter tap will have a taper on it, rather than being parallel. So you can let it feel its way into the rusted captive nut. Finish off with a parallel. Failing that, taper the bolt end on a grinding wheel, and work it into the nut, a bit at a time. That's a good move anyway to start a tricky-to-line-up bolt. Obviously using lubricant all the time.I'd also try some extreme heat, as in oxy-acetylene, if there's no risk of anything catching fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17391" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T07:08:54.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T07:13:49.077" Score="0" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a project to reset oil, brake, servicing reminder lights etc. using OBD-II Bluetooth scanners (VGate and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-based/obdlink-sx-scan-tool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OBDLink SX Scan Tool&lt;/a&gt;). Basically, trying to do what enhanced OBD-II scanners are capable of doing (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.x431store.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Launch Tool&lt;/a&gt;) with these scanners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I am unable to find out the mechanism in which these enhanced OBD-II scanners do these tasks (like resetting service reminder intervals, removing service reminder lights, reading ABS, BCM, Airbag faults etc.). Is it even possible to do the above mentioned tasks using the VGate and Scan Tool scanners? Are there any particular modes and/or PID for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cars used for my project testing are: Mahindra Scorpio (diesel) 2015 model and Hyundai i10 Era (petrol) 2012 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T07:13:49.077" Title="Oil, brake, servicing reminder lights turn off using OBD-II" Tags="|obd-ii|abs|service|supplemental-restraint-system|scan-tool|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T09:00:58.693" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I noticed that the rear differential was wet, with rigid oily soil.I used my screw driver to remove the stiff oily soil. the down part to the front of the car was wet. After removing the soil I saw that a hose or sealed wire entered the body of the differential from it's upper half the entry was also wet. Because this car has REAR DIFFERENTIAL LOCK I just guess that the seal of the entry might be damaged during course of that time, and something must be done with that? What else could be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22061" LastEditorUserId="373" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T10:23:12.607" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T15:56:43.023" Title="Mitsubishi Pajero (suv) 1992 v6 3000 Differential Oil Leak" Tags="|oil-leak|mitsubishi|rear-differential|pajero|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T09:03:15.463" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a trouble code in my car and unable to figure how to decode it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;008&#xA;0: 43 03 00 59 01 54 &#xA;43 00 &#xA;1: 01 55 AA AA AA AA AA&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand the response is in multiple frames, but unable to decode the same. Also, figuring out what this 008 in the beginning is.Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22060" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T12:30:48.770" Title="Trouble Code decoding" Tags="|chevrolet|obd-ii|silverado|dtc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3611" CreationDate="2016-08-31T09:24:30.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is, CLEAR suction cups. I got the ones with the metal hook just in case the window falls it will catch the internal weather strip. I went to Wally World and in the hardware department and picked up a pack of four (about 1 1/2 inch diameter). Two for the top so it does not fall into the door frame when the window is down and two for when you pull the window up. Just a hint. When you stick them on the glass, Just take your tongue to the center of the cup only. HAHAHA I know it sounds funny but it works the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22062" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T09:24:30.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T09:29:50.437" Score="4" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a P1500 code on my 98 Mazda 626 GF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up my computer using &lt;code&gt;ForScan&lt;/code&gt; and cleared the code. It didn't come back after three slow test drives around the parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the workshop manual says for a P1500 DTC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t32bB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t32bB.png&quot; alt=&quot;DTC 1500 indicates that the VSS input signal was intermittent. Possible Causes - Damaged VSS • Damaged ECM (PCM) • Intermittent VSS connections • Intermittent open in VSS harness circuit(s) • Intermittent short in VSS harness circuit(s)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Experiment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drove around the parking lot a little faster than a brisk walk / slow jog and noticed that the dash speedometer seemed to stay on zero. The reading from the ECU bounced between zero and 7 - 9 km/h, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+-------------------------------------------------------+&#xA;|time(ms)|VSS(km/h)|TP_V(Volt)|RPM(rev/min)|TSS(rev/min)|&#xA;+-------------------------------------------------------+&#xA;|63395   |6.9      |0.56      |758         |624         |&#xA;|63469   |5.1      |0.56      |755         |616         |&#xA;|63542   |3.4      |0.56      |752         |609         |&#xA;|63628   |1.7      |0.56      |752         |601         |&#xA;|63702   |0.0      |0.56      |752         |601         |&#xA;|63774   |1.6      |0.57      |753         |601         |&#xA;|63845   |3.2      |0.57      |753         |601         |&#xA;|63920   |4.8      |0.57      |753         |600         |&#xA;|63996   |6.3      |0.57      |752         |596         |&#xA;|64071   |6.3      |0.57      |752         |592         |&#xA;|64144   |6.3      |0.57      |751         |587         |&#xA;|64227   |6.3      |0.57      |755         |583         |&#xA;|64302   |6.3      |0.57      |759         |579         |&#xA;|64376   |6.2      |0.57      |763         |575         |&#xA;|64451   |6.2      |0.57      |767         |571         |&#xA;|64526   |6.2      |0.57      |766         |568         |&#xA;|64601   |6.1      |0.57      |764         |564         |&#xA;|64674   |4.6      |0.57      |763         |561         |&#xA;|64759   |3.1      |0.57      |762         |558         |&#xA;|64832   |1.5      |0.57      |759         |555         |&#xA;|64906   |0.0      |0.57      |756         |550         |&#xA;|64984   |0.0      |0.57      |754         |545         |&#xA;|65060   |0.0      |0.57      |751         |541         |&#xA;|65129   |0.0      |0.57      |751         |536         |&#xA;|65205   |0.0      |0.57      |752         |534         |&#xA;|65279   |1.4      |0.57      |752         |533         |&#xA;|65363   |2.8      |0.57      |753         |531         |&#xA;|65436   |4.3      |0.57      |751         |530         |&#xA;|65510   |5.7      |0.57      |748         |527         |&#xA;|65586   |4.3      |0.57      |746         |525         |&#xA;|65659   |2.8      |0.57      |744         |522         |&#xA;|65733   |1.4      |0.57      |742         |519         |&#xA;|65806   |0.0      |0.57      |739         |518         |&#xA;|65882   |0.0      |0.58      |736         |516         |&#xA;|65966   |0.0      |0.58      |734         |515         |&#xA;|66038   |0.0      |0.58      |737         |513         |&#xA;|66112   |0.0      |0.58      |741         |512         |&#xA;|66184   |1.3      |0.58      |745         |510         |&#xA;|66259   |2.7      |0.59      |749         |508         |&#xA;|66336   |4.0      |0.59      |750         |507         |&#xA;|66406   |5.4      |0.59      |752         |503         |&#xA;|66483   |4.0      |0.60      |754         |500         |&#xA;|66556   |2.7      |0.60      |755         |497         |&#xA;|66629   |1.3      |0.60      |787         |494         |&#xA;|66703   |0.0      |0.60      |818         |500         |&#xA;|66776   |1.3      |0.61      |850         |507         |&#xA;|66860   |2.6      |0.61      |881         |514         |&#xA;|66933   |4.0      |0.61      |898         |520         |&#xA;|67010   |5.3      |0.61      |916         |525         |&#xA;|67087   |4.0      |0.61      |933         |529         |&#xA;|67160   |2.6      |0.61      |950         |534         |&#xA;|67245   |1.3      |0.61      |954         |538         |&#xA;|67320   |0.0      |0.61      |958         |545         |&#xA;|67393   |1.5      |0.61      |962         |551         |&#xA;|67469   |2.9      |0.61      |966         |557         |&#xA;|67543   |4.4      |0.61      |960         |563         |&#xA;+-------------------------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a graph of roughly the same data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qmy3L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qmy3L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speedometer Readings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;While researching this...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that vehicle speed sensors will not generate a signal at less than 3mph/5kph.  This is mentioned on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content/full_dtcp0502_again&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a site describing what to do about P0502 codes&lt;/a&gt; and in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=K0K9VcWtj80C&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;dq=automotive%20service%20tim%20gilles&amp;amp;pg=PP1#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=automotive%20service%20tim%20gilles&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tim Gilles book &amp;quot;Automotive Service&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My speed during most of this test was hovering right around 5kph. According to these sources, every time I drop below 5kph, the sensor will stop producing a signal and effectively read zero speed. I'm wondering if maybe this graph is actually OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Questions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal for the VSS data to look like this at very low speeds (brisk walking / slow jog speed) or is this an indication of a problem with the sensor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's not normal, where should I start looking beyond just testing the sensor itself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 26/7/2017&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've still got this problem, and thought I'd point out that every once in a while the ABS warning light will come on.  Also, I actually checked the transmission, and there is just a plastic place holder where the VSS sensor is supposed to be.  So I'm assuming that the ECU must be using the signals from the ABS wheel speed sensors in place of a VSS sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of course makes this a little more trouble to diagnose.  I'd really like to diagnose this rather than going out and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-ABS-Sensor-front-FRONT-LEFT-MAZDA-626-GF-GW-Built-1997-2002-NEW-GH/182443453005?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buying new ABS sensors&lt;/a&gt; at $55 each including shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T19:48:55.147" Title="VSS accuracy at low speeds" Tags="|electronics|speedometer|wheel-speed-sensor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36685" CreationDate="2016-08-31T10:17:28.627" Score="3" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L ATX which I don't drive allot, and which has had a few unusual stalls and almost stalls, one of which I had trouble restarting after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past say two months, I had incidents where an alert light on the dash would come on ( a picture of a car with a big key superimposed over it ), the engine would almost stall ( as if electric power was cut ), it would recover and the light would go off.  This would all happen in around a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then today, the car died while I was idling.  It was similar to the previous &quot;almost stalls&quot; in that there was no sputtering or shaking; it was as if someone had simply unplugged the battery, a very gentle, quite stall.  However, that &quot;car &amp;amp; key&quot; picture &lt;strong&gt;did not&lt;/strong&gt; come on.  At first I was unable to restart the car. I tried a few times over the course of a few minutes with no success. So I waited maybe fifteen minutes, came back and it started right up.  I drove home, turned it off, started it up again and was sitting letting it idle for a few minutes when the same thing happened again.  However this time it started right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hooked up my laptop with the ForScan software and pulled a P1500 DTC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DTC 1500 indicates that the VSS input signal was intermittent [Possible Cause] • Damaged VSS • Damaged ECM (PCM) • Intermittent VSS connections • Intermittent open in VSS harness circuit(s) • Intermittent short in VSS harness circuit(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleared the code, restarted the car a few times, did some slow drives around the parking lot to collect some test data, and so far it didn't stall again and the code didn't come back.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35842/vss-accuracy-at-low-speeds&quot;&gt;I asked a separate question regarding the test data I gathered&lt;/a&gt;.  I also ran the KOEO and KOER self tests which both passed with no errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things which might ( or might not ) be related are that I recently had to replace a bad &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32344/can-i-use-a-fn4a-el-turbine-speed-sensor-on-a-gf4a-el&quot;&gt;Turbine Speed Sensor&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/32340/how-to-determine-exactly-whats-wrong-with-my-alternator&quot;&gt;verifiably bad alternator&lt;/a&gt;, and my remote entry key stopped working.  I also had to replace the Lambda sensor a while back.  I'm a bit worried maybe that bad alternator was slowly frying my electrical components.  There is also an aftermarket keypad immobilizer which was disabled because it was causing problems, however the components like the relay for disabling the fuel pump, are still in place.  I'm also having a problem with rough idle under load, when I turn on the A/C, electrical loads, or hold down the brake with the car in drive.  That's everything I can think of at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I'm at a bit of a loss as how to proceed.  I recently went on a fairly long drive ( three hours round trip ) with no incidents, but now I'm a bit worried about driving the car around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT Sept. 3rd 2016&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried to follow the procedure in the video that @Zaid posted.  I hooked up my computer, let the car idle, and went around shaking and wiggling the wiring harness and the wiring of every individual sensor I thought might be relevant, without any visible results.  I also went under the drivers side dash and started wiggling wires, and went to the passenger side and wiggled around the connector to the ECU.  I probably let it idle 30 minutes, and then I drove it around the neighborhood for about ten minutes on very bumpy roads, but couldn't reproduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to take the family on a 2 1/2 hour trip tomorrow, but am a little nervous and not sure how to proceed at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T15:55:50.690" Title="98 Mazda 626 with Intermitant Stall and Restart Problem" Tags="|intermittent-problems|stall|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35851" CreationDate="2016-08-31T11:06:03.043" Score="1" ViewCount="6704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Volkswagen Vento. Its one of abs sensor damaged. Is it possible to repair the sensor. One sensor worth 4k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first time the abs warning lights were disappear after pump the break pedal 10 times. Now the warning light is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model : 2013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Location : India&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensor Location : Right Back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="1530" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T04:40:34.063" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T02:34:04.823" Title="Volkswagen Vento ABS sensor repair" Tags="|vw|car|abs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T11:34:07.437" Score="2" ViewCount="3791" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to fix error code P0615 of  Infiniti FX45 of engine 4.5L of 2003&#xA;Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22063" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T20:44:53.297" Title="fix P0615 Infiniti FX45 2003.Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it" Tags="|nissan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-01-03T20:44:11.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:03:31.450" Score="1" ViewCount="8481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My car stereo is very low volume and I listen to a lot of live music. I know nothing about cars and am looking for a way to get louder speakers without having to take anything apart. Is there any kind of system that I can plug into a USB/AUX/cigarette port that I can sync up with my existing car speakers? (Probably not but I thought i'd ask.) Or does anyone have suggestions of any portable speaker that I could put in my car that would still sound good if I was using that instead of my existing car speakers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22066" LastEditorUserId="24203" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T02:53:45.493" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T02:53:45.493" Title="Add an extra speaker to car stereo?" Tags="|car|audio|speakers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:05:03.290" Score="2" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Electric Ford Focus and this morning I tried to start it and all of the lights inside and outside just started flashing and going crazy. The app I have on my phone says that the charge finished this morning. I plugged it back in and the car isn't reading that the charger is plugged into it. The car won't turn on or do anything except flash all of the lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22067" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T14:05:03.290" Title="Electric Ford Focus - all lights flashing when trying to start it" Tags="|ford|focus|electric-vehicle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35866" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:09:36.987" Score="5" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at purchasing a high mileage, very well maintained 2006 Grand Prix 5.3 v8. It has 396,000km on the original engine (new tranny). I'm guessing GM put this motor in a number of work trucks, so I'd imagine it has some legs. Other than a compression check and a look at the belts, are there any common failure points that I can check before purchase? Any telltales that the motor is on it's last legs? Anyone have undocumented issues with these cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4681" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T16:56:58.577" Title="2006 Grand Prix GXP V8 high mileage engine" Tags="|maintenance|pontiac|grand-prix|mileage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36202" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:14:40.993" Score="8" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder what percentage of the questions here are from me about this car...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to accelerate with more than about 60-75% throttle at lower RPM (say, under 3k or so), the car starts to accelerate, then acts like there's a fuel cut. This will continue until I let off of the pedal. I can accelerate gradually and eventually hit WOT without an issue, but doing it &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt; always causes this issue unless I'm already at a higher RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that, when this happens, my AFR shows a (surprising) 10 - 10.5, which also happens under WOT when the car is running correctly. Way, way rich. When I let off of the throttle, I can smell gas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've replaced the exhaust (cat-back), fixed the downstream O2 sensor that had the wiring harness slashed. I reset the ECU after that. (Note that this problem started a few weeks ago, before I fixed the O2 sensor or  replaced the cat back.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a CEL, with the following DTCs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P0010 - &quot;A&quot; Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1&#xA;&#xA;P0011 - &quot;A&quot; Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1&#xA;&#xA;P0455 - EVAP System Leak Detected&#xA;&#xA;P0507 - Idle Speed High (and it is)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When coming to a stop, the engine frequently revs up to ~2500RPM.After a few seconds it'll go (usually) go down to 750-1000RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has an aftermarket turbo, and is tuned for this kit. However, I've had weird issues ever since I put the kit on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the air filter and spark plugs. Everything looks fine. I recently replaced the turbo-to-exhaust manifold gasket which had exploded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? I'm running out of ideas. I'll check the cam sensor and make sure it's properly connected but I doubt that's the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced both cam actuator solenoids and the hesitation is gone, however now the car sounds horrible (somewhat like a Diesel) at idle, though I can hear then noise at lower RPMs while moving, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum on my boost gauge used to be ~25mmHg at idle, now it's ranging from 15 to 20. Which (to me) also indicates a vacuum leak. Really, really going to try blocking off the EVAP at the throttle body today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the 10 AFR readings may be near the limit of the sensor or gauge's useful range. (It's an AutoMeter wideband, upstream from the cat.) I'm going to hook up HPTuners this afternoon and do some logging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I had a very nice backfire on the way to breakfast this morning after letting off the throttle at high boost/RPM. I thought to myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Self, this neighborhood is really going to crap. I mean, who shoots at a stranger before breakfast?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, the car is running REALLY rough. It tried to die at a stop light a few times. Typically when this happens, it smooths out once I get moving, which it did a few times. However, after the last light I stopped at before reaching my destination, the car started surging pretty badly, almost as if I was hitting the gas like a snare drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I left this morning I hooked up HP Tuners and captured a log file. If anyone here has the expertise to interpret this in a useful way, please, please speak up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did make it for a day and a half without a CEL after replacing the cam actuator solenoids and resetting the computer. Now, I have another DTC (P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lY2m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lY2m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is getting a little long  - maybe I should start another thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10824" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T11:54:11.907" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T11:54:11.907" Title="06 Solstice - weird hesitation / bogging under heavy throttle" Tags="|fuel-system|cel|acceleration|solstice|solstice-of-sorrow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35845" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:15:14.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the sensor itself is damaged it would be a challenging task (if not impossible) to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be also other causes. I would suggest you to check the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of times just the abs ring needs to get cleaned. The ring is on the backside of the wheel hub. Remove the brake disc, then clean the abs ring gently with a wooden spike, a fine brass brush, pressurized air and brake cleaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps the sensor connection has a bad connection. Try to clean the contacts with a fine brass brush or contact spray. Plugging it in and out several times can also restore contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is also possible that the sensor cable is damaged, a repair of the cable should be doable. Check the entire cable (going back to the ecu).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19901" LastEditorUserId="19901" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T14:33:47.490" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T14:33:47.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17589" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:50:34.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars from Japan use band expanders because Japan uses different frequencies for FM Radio broadcast. Most countries use 88-108 Mhz for FM broadcast as per international agreement. Japan uses 76-90 Mhz. I suspect you might be from New Zealand as Police and Fire frequencies are in 75-76 Mhz range hence the interference. It also explains that when you removed the device the problem rectified itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good thing I am also a radio operator and know such things  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:50:34.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35847" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:55:47.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speakers aren't going to be your problem; putting higher powered speakers in won't actually make them any louder (it just allows them to handle more powerful inputs). Putting more sensitive speakers in would work to a point, but only if you know the sensitivity of the existing speakers, and can be expensive for a minimal improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you should take the car to a car stereo store, and let them know what you want from the system; they'll recommend a head unit, amplifier and speakers that all work well together. It's the best solution, but not the cheapest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a cheap solution, replace the head unit currently in the car, and keep the existing speakers. For about $100, you should get a worthwhile upgrade that can have an amplifier added at a future date if it still doesn't give you the volume and quality that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:55:47.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27347" CreationDate="2016-08-31T16:11:34.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No signals on FM or AM ?  How is the antenna connection? If it is a recent model car the radio antenna is in the rear window and the connection is near the upper left hand side. You would probably have to remove a piece of molding to get at it. The antenna itself looks like a piece of the the rear window defroster only with a few lines(3 or 4) . It is connected to a inline amplifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T16:11:34.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T16:58:23.223" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have code P2647 on a 2000 Camaro Z28.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this code and what is the fix for this code? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine is making a loud lifter noise when starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22070" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T17:38:00.660" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T04:06:16.543" Title="What is code p2647 for 2000 camaro z28" Tags="|chevrolet|dtc|camaro|code|valve-lifter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35711" CreationDate="2016-08-31T17:38:49.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Titanium M5 metric bolts have a torque specification of 25 inch pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should use thread lock for all handlebar related bolts that are related to your safety as a rider.  You can use the lowest level of thread lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T17:38:49.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35834" CreationDate="2016-08-31T18:07:45.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like this is your ignition switch.  If you are receiving power in the 'park' position on your ignition switch you are clearly getting power to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is merit in checking all of your fuses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can validate various connections using a multimeter to see if you can detect voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good post regarding multimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/25816/multimeter-basic-functionality-and-howto&quot;&gt;Multimeter - Basic Functionality and Howto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T18:07:45.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35847" CreationDate="2016-08-31T19:13:26.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are systems that are cigarette/aux/usb/bluetooth that fit your needs as posted.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example look at Sondpex Bluetooth Speaker System &amp;amp; Digital Music Player CSF-E65B.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It only has the drawback of taking space inside the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find this article interesting and it has several other suggestions on wireless car audio.   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techcrok.com/wireless-car-speakers-top-5-brands-to-consider/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wireless car audio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21850" LastEditorUserId="21850" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T16:05:12.747" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T16:05:12.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35850" CreationDate="2016-08-31T19:21:41.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the symptoms sound like an air leak, which would fit with the p0455 error code.  I would try to block off the evap connection to the air intake to see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I think this?&#xA;When you are accelerating gently, the ECU is probably adjusting the mixture to compensate for the extra unmetered air using the reading from the o2 sensor.  When you put your foot down, it is not able to compensate for the extra air and the engine runs lean causing the hesitation. However, the ECU thinks the mixture is rich because the air flow meter is showing less air than is really entering the intake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine revs when you let off the throttle, because there is still air getting in which keeps the engine revving.  The ECU then closes the IAC to try to drop the revs, but doesn't quite manage to bring them right down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastEditorUserId="11847" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T19:48:46.097" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T19:48:46.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35846" CreationDate="2016-08-31T20:34:37.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;P0615&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCM has detected an abnormal voltage reading from the starter relay circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common Causes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In choosing a single most common cause, I would have to say a faulty ignition switch. Other common causes may include a blown fuse, a bad starter relay, shorted or open circuits, a defective battery, faulty battery cables/cable ends, or a defective starter motor/solenoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common Misdiagnosis:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snap diagnosis’ often lead to unnecessary starter motor replacement. Technicians report that shortcomings in the voltage supply to the starter motor are more common in late model vehicles than bad starter motors/solenoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagnosis:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some vehicles use a starter relay in order to activate and engage the starter motor with the flywheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others use a system that does not include a relay but instead uses a wire that comes directly from the ignition switch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of code will set only in the former&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite end of the positive battery cable (from the battery post) is typically attached to the starter solenoid using an eyelet style cable end placed over a solenoid integrated stud, with a nut threaded on to secure it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive battery cable is often referred to as a primary circuit&#xA;A separate wire from the starter relay, or directly from the ignition switch, is used to activate the starter solenoid and engage the starter motor with the flywheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wire is sometimes called a secondary circuit&#xA;Of course, the supply of voltage on the positive battery cable should be constant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ignition switch (not the cylinder but the electrical switch which the cylinder engages) is used to activate the secondary circuit (in this case, via the starter relay) which causes the contacts of the starter solenoid to close&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the solenoid contacts closed, battery voltage is supplied to the starter motor, causing it to spin and engage the engine flywheel, thus cranking the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several tools will be instrumental in successfully diagnosing this code&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suitable OBD-II scanner (or code reader) and a digital volt/ohmmeter will be most helpful in performing a successful diagnosis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An infrared thermometer with a laser pointer will also be helpful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin with a visual inspection of all wiring and connectors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair or replace damaged, disconnected, shorted, or corroded wiring, connectors, and components as necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always retest the system after repairs are completed to ensure success. If all system wiring, connectors, and components (Including fuses) appear to be in normal working order, connect the scanner (or code reader) to the diagnostic connector and record all stored codes and freeze frame data&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information can be extremely helpful in diagnosing intermittent conditions that may have contributed to this code being stored&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue by clearing the code and operating the vehicle to see if it returns&#xA;This will help to determine whether or not the malfunction is intermittent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the codes are cleared, test drive the vehicle to see if the code returns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the code fails to immediately return, you may have an intermittent condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intermittent conditions can prove to be quite a challenge to diagnose and in extreme cases may have to be allowed to worsen before a correct diagnosis can even be attempted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue your diagnosis with a visual inspection of the battery cables and battery cable ends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean or replace cables and ends as required&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the battery is fully charged and then perform a battery load and starting/charging system test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare your findings with manufacturer’s recommendations and replace faulty components as needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the battery and starting/charging system are normal, then test system fuses and fusible links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace faulty components as needed and retest the system&#xA;If the problem persists, test the starter end of the battery cable for battery voltage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter to check the starter end of the battery cable while the ignition switch key is turned to the “start” position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A constant supply of battery voltage should be present&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no voltage, or if voltage is diminished when the ignition switch is placed in the start position, suspect a faulty battery cable or battery cable connection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starter uses its mounting bolts to ground itself to the engine block&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the battery ground cable is securely attached to the engine block by testing the engine block ground and starter housing ground&#xA;If the starter motor housing has no ground, repair the ground cable or connection as required&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, place the voltage end of your testing device on the secondary circuit of the starter solenoid (the small stud and retaining nut opposite the battery cable stud on the rear of the solenoid) and have a helper rotate the ignition switch from the “start” to the “run” position, repeatedly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The secondary circuit should have battery voltage with the ignition switch in the start position, only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no voltage on the secondary wire, move your testing to focus on the starter relay. Test the input circuits of the starter relay and compare your findings with the manufacturer’s specifications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the input readings coincide with manufacturer’s specs, and there is no output voltage signal, replace the starter relay. If there is no ignition switch input signal at the starter relay, suspect a faulty ignition switch (not the cylinder, the electrical portion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If other input signals fail to line-up with manufacturer’s specifications, disconnect the relay connector and perform a continuity test between the connector and the fuse panel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair open or shorted circuits as required and retest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the PCM input signal from the starter relay and repair open or shorted wiring as necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the PCM input signal is present, suspect a faulty PCM (PCM failure is rare)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bestride.com/engine-trouble-codes/P0615&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source of Information Above&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting circuit diagram&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InliD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InliD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location of starter Relay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgyEg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgyEg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T20:44:53.297" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T20:44:53.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35862" CreationDate="2016-08-31T20:42:02.713" Score="19" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know the answer to my question, but I just wanted to be 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently left my car in to a well known, &lt;strong&gt;certified&lt;/strong&gt; Vauxhall servicing and repairs garage to get a new pedal box. I'll spare you the details, but if you're interested here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35356/wobbly-clutch-pedal&quot;&gt;link to my original question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received the car back today after them having it for a week (5 working days). They told me that there had been a problem with a &quot;switch&quot; in the pedal and they needed to order a new one, hence the delay. Fine - they gave us a courtesy car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife picked our car up from the garage today and told me it drives perfectly and the pedal wasn't wobbly any more - &quot;Brilliant&quot;, I thought, &quot;Lets go give it a good ol' wiggle&quot;. There was no wiggle but this is what I was greeted with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i102v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i102v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panel to right of steering wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a good sign, so I decided to investigate further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7i0K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7i0K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Misaligned Panels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yAIe2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yAIe2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Driver glovebox not flush&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then moved down to the panel beneath the steering wheel and noticed that there was something off about it too. I got the torch and camera out and saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtpJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtpJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable Tie securing a panel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure this isn't right.&#xA;It seems to me that the mechanic broke a few clips and even the bracket behind this panel. Can anyone tell me how this is even achieved? Was the mechanic using brute force where he shouldn't have been?&#xA;Does it look like the mechanic has tried to cover up his mistake by drilling a hole through the bracket, and using the cable tie to hold it all together?&#xA;Most importantly - is this dangerous? Could the panel etc fall off while driving and possibly cause an accident?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm asking lots of questions, but I'm trying to get a mechanics perspective on this before I write a strongly worded complaint to the dealership, and possibly on to the Ombudsman if they don't resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 2014 car that I bought 3 weeks ago - not very happy as you can imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight would be greatly appreciated. To add to my woes, my wife is heavily pregnant (due next Wednesday) so we really need this car so we can fit 3 baby seats along the back row. The added stress doesn't help matters. (Sorry - I'm just venting now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13494" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:08:54.313" Title="Should interior panels be held together with cable ties?" Tags="|interior|opel|vauxhall|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35861" CreationDate="2016-08-31T20:48:30.570" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any vehicle worked on by a professional mechanic should be re-assembled properly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a real mess with the zip tie.  Obviously that damage cannot be undone, you can't undrill a hole.  It looks as if the panel that was broken is due to incorrect procedures used to remove them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interior panels can be difficult to remove if you do not follow the correct procedure.  Unfortunately I have broken a couple of interior components due to lack of knowledge in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other panels appear to be installed incorrectly and are not snapped into their retaining clips properly.  You may be able to simply apply some pressure to them and have them snap in proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these panels are very cheap and can be replaced with very little cost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is a great inexpensive lesson that your current mechanic has failed the test of quality and knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T16:08:54.313" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:08:54.313" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T22:35:09.157" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Toyota 4Runner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I drive my car at normal speed of 45 mph all of a sudden the RPM revs up high and then I cannot accelerate past 20 mph. What could be the problem?  Someone told me I had to replace the transmission is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22071" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T14:48:28.620" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T14:48:28.620" Title="Transmission Problem?" Tags="|toyota|transmission|4runner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35861" CreationDate="2016-08-31T23:32:17.900" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I stated in my comments: They did the damage; they need to fix it (or pay for it to be fixed). This is worse than shoddy craftsmanship. Any reputable shop would not look like this. Their mechanic did this; they need to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it back to the shop and point all of this stuff out to the Service Manager. Tell them you are not happy with the outcome of the repair work. Your car didn't look like this when you brought it in, so have no clue why it looks like this going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T23:32:17.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T00:18:10.107" Score="5" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been getting acquainted with one of the fuse boxes under my hood to get up to speed with the relays found there. I'm walking through the diagram and the table of relays seems to match up very consistently with blank entries (&lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt;) in the table to empty relay slots in the fuse box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However one relay labeled &lt;code&gt;FMI2 BIFUEL LPG VALVE&lt;/code&gt; has a entry in the relay table but no relay in the fuse box. I'll research more about my car but I'm curious as a general question if there is such a thing as optional relays or for that matter optional circuits in a vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that might be so with this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bi-fuel_vehicle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bi-fuel&lt;/a&gt; vehicle thing this relay refers to, I'm only running Gas so it's good I don't need that circuit to be active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A follow up question would be what's the conventions for these fuse box diagrams, an empty entry in the table would suggest I don't have the circuitry or hardware at all for the devices those portions of the fuse box are capable and intended to support. Perhaps some upgrade hardware passed up at the time of original owner vehicle purchase. Maybe the fuse boxes are used to support multiple vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zu4d3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zu4d3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overlay of missing relay slot above the relay fuse box diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:15:59.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T01:20:07.257" Title="Can a Relay that's enumerated in a Fuse Box diagram be optional? (Missing Relay in Fuse Box)" Tags="|electrical|fuse-panel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35849" CreationDate="2016-09-01T00:39:17.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl dr:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Move along; nothing to see here.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;396,000km (246k miles) is a lot of use even for LSx engines. Unless you are getting this for free, I'd pass. There are several reasons for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though this is a 5.3L engine, it isn't the same as what comes out of the trucks. It's nomenclatured as an LS4 engine. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS_based_GM_small-block_engine#5.3_L_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia Article&lt;/a&gt;, the crankshaft is shorter on both the front and the back of the engine (by over a cm on each). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The block on this is made of aluminum. Unlike most of the truck engines (L33 being different) which come with cast iron blocks, you won't be able to do much in the rebuild department on this block. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; try to bore the cylinders on this, but at most I believe you can only go 0.005&quot; over. If it takes more than that to clean up the cylinders, you have to resleeve. This is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing which is different is, the bell housing bolt pattern is different than a standard Vortec engine, or just about any other LSx motor for that matter. Since it's designed to go in horizontally, it mates up to a different type of transmission. You'd have to get an adapter to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion to you is to absolutely PASS on this engine, due to it's oddity and how many kms it has on it. If you look, you can find an LM7 (5.3L Vortec which is cast iron) or even an LQ4/9 (6.0L Vortec which is cast iron). These are &lt;em&gt;all over the junk yards&lt;/em&gt; due to them being put into millions of trucks. You can also find them cheap because of this, complete with wiring harness. These engines are completely rebuildable and can be done so quite inexpensively. You should be able to find them just as easily in Canada as I would expect to find them here in the States. If worse came to worse, a short trip over the border could prove fruitful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2017-08-13T16:56:58.577" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T16:56:58.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35865" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:20:07.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You'll often see optional components in manuals and circuit diagrams. That simplifies the documentation process. Often there will be provision for those components in the actual manufacture of the car as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16149" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T01:20:07.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35847" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:31:52.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tl;dr; answer? No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are potential external speaker options, they will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sync up to your existing stereo, so issues of placement would probably negate any of the gains from them. None of the small bluetooth speakers which would actually fit on your dash are going to provide any clarity at the volumes you need to overcome road noise while driving. You could theoretically grab a pair of small speakers and a 50x2 12VDC digital amplifier, figure out where to put them, drive around, reposition them, reposition them, reposition them... or do it right (and safe) and upgrade your head unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you DIY it - most vehicles with &quot;not loud enough&quot; stereos aren't bad to DIY - you could get a discless head unit for under $50, a mount kit (if needed) for another $10-$15 and a wiring harness for another $10. After some minor disassembly and a little soldering or crimping, you'll have a head unit with enough output power to hear your music and support for digital files or bluetooth audio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend a little more on the head unit to get fun features like a high pass crossover to avoid wasting amplifier power on low frequencies that will detract from your music and/or damage your factory speakers, and additional amplifier outputs to add subs or external amplifiers if you want cleaner power (and want to upgrade the speakers so you can hear the difference). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car audio is certainly not an all-or-nothing game. You can start small/cheap and only go further when you decide you want more. There are plenty of people out there who are happy to guide you on that path. Loud is cheap, loud &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; clean will cost a bit more, and flat is where it gets expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T01:31:52.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T01:54:20.353" Score="3" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2006 LR Range Rover HSE 4.4 liter with 75K (no turbo). At the time of purchase, I had no overheating issues and just nominal tire fixes and some garnish enhancements that I decided to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I noticed a small leak when I was having the car aligned. I did a pressure test and it yielded that the Thermostat housing was leaking - I didn't decide to fix the issue, so I sent it into a shop, where the work was done. The car started to overheat 3 days later. I purchased a clutch fan &amp;amp; the water pump and replaced them both myself to no avail; the issue still persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed that the reservoir tank is bloated and the lower hose is not warm ... a deeper research shows that the radiator has had some kind of patch work done to it. At this point, I'm thinking of getting the radiator and a new reservoir tank and tackling it myself over the holiday weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is ... if I go through with it and replace this radiator and the reservoir tank and it still overheats, is it almost positive that the cars has a blown head gasket or can it be even worst case scenario a blown block engine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with any insight - I would greatly appreciate it ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and sorry for the inconvenience ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22073" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T21:54:57.077" Title="Range Rover Overheating" Tags="|coolant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35869" CreationDate="2016-09-01T02:11:59.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very likely that your issue is an obstructed radiator. With a blown engine, you would notice the lack of power. As for a blown head gasket, look at your exhaust colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T02:11:59.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T03:18:56.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla and I am having problems with it starting, it seems to only start &quot;when it wants to&quot;. I have taken it to 2 Toyota dealers who can't find the problem with it. I have someone tell me that I needed a starter, alternator and a battery, in which I bought all brand new and it still didn't work. I drove it around after the parts were put on and when I was about to go somewhere else later that say it didn't start Again! It started the next day and I went to go get spark plugs which is something else that someone told me to get. The car worked fine throughout the day shutting on and off and starting back up, until later in the day it did the same thing of not starting until waiting after a few minutes. Running out of options, Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22074" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T17:05:37.147" Title="Car starts when it wants" Tags="|toyota|starting|troubleshooting|sensor|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T03:32:33.757" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay I have a 2003 Honda crv and I was putting a new radio and had to splice a wire into the hazard switch all was fine but when I was putting the radio back in the wires pull apart so I took everything out and reconnected everything to what it was now my hazard lights will work but neither of my blinkers will does anyone have any ideas of what it could be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22076" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T03:32:33.757" Title="2003 Honda blinkers not working" Tags="|troubleshooting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35876" CreationDate="2016-09-01T03:43:20.090" Score="5" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying not to make this too much opinion.  I am eager to learn to work on an engine, but I thought maybe I could buy a plastic engine model kit, Revell or some other brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is building a small model engine like that remotely close to working on a real engine?  By that I mean learning the parts and how it works.  I know it's a lot cleaner, etc.  Or is it a waste of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T05:14:37.173" Title="Does a plastic model engine have enough real combustion engine replica parts to simulate working on a real engine?" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:18:45.103" Score="1" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have just bought a 2005 C4 Citroen with a 4 cylinder petrol engine it has 104000 km on the clock. My issue is when the car is cold it takes around 10 tries to get it to idle properly. I have replaced all spark plugs and had them gapped at .035&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just taken it to a back yard mechanic and he showed me how to get it to start straight away. He took off the pipe in front of fuel body and poured petrol onto the flap. The car started straight away but I can't do this every morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the fuel body be worn out? Does it need to be replaced or can it be cleaned up? Or, could it be other issues? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22077" LastEditorUserId="16149" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T20:12:25.607" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T14:57:47.537" Title="2005 C4 Citroen starting problems" Tags="|starting|fuel-system|citroen-c4|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:47:22.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idiots! There is no reason for debate. If the tire has sidewall damage, replace the tire. Simple. A $200.00 tire is peanuts compared to the potential disaster a support failure will cause. I'm actually surprised that the issue is even up for question. Operating an automobile with less than adequate equipment is a threat to everyone else sharing the road. Stop thinking about yourself for a change and do the responsible thing, Go get a new one! The implication is negligence, also referred to as &quot;half ass&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22078" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T04:47:22.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35873" CreationDate="2016-09-01T05:18:24.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think so.  &lt;em&gt;Hella to the &quot;yes!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;  There's truly nothing better than Revell's &quot;Visible V8&quot; model.  That's what I had when I was a kid. &lt;em&gt;(Please ignore the moth storm, smell of linament, and the dust cloud.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own kid bought the modern version (with a very &lt;em&gt;subtle&lt;/em&gt; pressure from his father) and he learned a bunch.  The modern version isn't quite the same as the vintage one I did four decades ago, but in some ways it's better.  The original only came with assembly instructions.  The modern version comes with posters and charts that actually explain real-life operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit is now quite expensive, but careful shopping and observance of &quot;eBay&quot; type venues might land you a deal.  (Grandpa sometimes pays full boat, and grandson [grandaughter?] has no interest outside of Xbox.)  A shame in my opinon, but another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't teach how to &lt;em&gt;work&lt;/em&gt; on an engine, it does a fine job of showing in an active visual context the timing, process, strokes of the &quot;Otto&quot; cycle, and the general arrangement of parts.  Granted, it's representing 4-5 decade (acutally six or more, I've been deducting years now according to my AARP plan) old engine technology, but the &lt;strong&gt;strokes haven't changed&lt;/strong&gt;  (&quot;suck, squeeze, bang, blow&quot;) and ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a fundamental understanding of the parts, timing, strokes, camshafts, distributor, crankshaft, etc. is the best foundation for any attempt at working on an internal combustion engine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can teach you how to use wrenches and sockets and screwdrivers safely in the first two weeks of my class.  A knowledge that says &quot;I own this&quot; about the Otto cycle takes many many hours of study and experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO...   Check out the neo-ancient Revell Visible V8.  If you need help, let me know--I am very good at sniffing the glue.   ERRRR, I mean helping educate.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLbvA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLbvA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastEditorUserId="17671" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T07:05:08.970" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T07:05:08.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T05:49:43.807" Score="8" ViewCount="2343" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding in a slow moving traffic should I keep on switching to neutral when I stop the bike or should I keep the bike in 1st or 2nd gear holding the clutch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does changing gears frequently cause more wear and tear to the engine or holding in the clutch for long periods of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22079" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T01:05:34.050" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:24:27.157" Title="Riding motor cycle in a slow moving traffic" Tags="|motorcycle|clutch|gears|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T06:26:41.347" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra Sedan.  The gauges, courtesy lights, door locks, electric windows, and taillights do not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it have a reset switch for my electrical problem? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any advice of where to start?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22080" LastEditorUserId="10831" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T21:28:26.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T21:28:26.870" Title="I have no interiors lights and my fuses are OK, what could be the cause?" Tags="|electrical|hyundai|lights|interior|elantra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35897" CreationDate="2016-09-01T06:58:35.257" Score="3" ViewCount="10576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a Honda CG 125 (Pakistan version Euro 2) and on stock it goes to 105 KMPH max (could be 110) but that's the reading from the stock meter. I've recently installed a local CDI unit (which according to the mechanic: does not limit the revs hence more speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T23:52:00.353" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T06:58:04.880" Title="What role does CDI unit play in limiting the revs?" Tags="|engine|honda|motorcycle|cdi|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T07:10:14.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1328" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son has his first bike Suzuki Marauder 125 2004.&#xA;Long story short no problems apart from flat battery due to lights left on. Battery on charge so decided to refit passenger saddle and panniers which didn't come with bike.&#xA;Had to drill out the back holes as the snapped bolts were still in them!! All done no problem bike washed and parts polished ready for outing. At the same time set the chain adjustment as the chain was a little loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced battery now charged. Bike started no problems and he took it to see a friend to see if adjusting chain had sorted sluggish take up.&#xA;He called said all ok and wouldn't be long. This is where it all went wrong!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On setting off to return he said bike started and he went to ride away when it just cut out and a lot of smoke started coming off under the saddle through top of engine and up to the starter button. He turned off the ignition as quick as possible got off and blew away the smoking area seeing immediately that it was caused by melted wiring cover.&#xA;On removing the saddle it was evident the problem was wiring overheating.&#xA;The lights still worked front and back as did brake light and horn but there is no ignition light on turn of key and at that time the indicators did not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On visual investigation we found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiring under the saddle from the part of yhe loom to the flasher relay has melted outer showing exposed cores and loom cover melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracing loom through to connector above engine again where wires exit loom to connector showing melted cover exposed core but only one of the four going in to the connector.&#xA;Unable to trace further as wires enclosed in loom cover or taped.&#xA;Using simple 12v tester not a meter as don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned on ignition and tried to find any live feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No ignition light on dash. Nothing at starter button.&#xA;Burnt wire at connector is not live either on or off.&#xA;Three exposed wires under saddle at indicator relay appear to have voltage with ignition on and to my surprise the indicators were operative.&#xA;In fact all function to the left switches lights indicator and horn work when ignition on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found ignition circuit from battery to solenoid 12v shows ignition off. From solenoid 12v shows ignition on. Cant get to coil as under petrol tank. Found starter lead but couldnt get tester to light either ignition on or off. The wires at the connector are melted or beyond.&#xA;Obviously futher investigation is necessary but without a meter what can I do?&#xA;What could have caused the wires to have melted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume power surge or constant power where shouldnt as would have to be sudden for bike to just cut out .&#xA;Are there any helpful persons more knowledgeable out there give an old parent some advice before he has to hand over his wallet to auto electrician!&#xA;I can source most of the parts and a second hand loom if this one can't be repaired or cheaper/easier to complete replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to try and strip the casing from the loom in and around the affected areas today to see what the extent of the damage to wiring is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22082" LastEditorUserId="14275" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T13:55:26.463" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T13:55:26.463" Title="Suzuki Marauder gz125 fried wiring on ignition/starter circuit" Tags="|electrical|motorcycle|starting|suzuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35871" CreationDate="2016-09-01T13:01:52.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may have a leaking check valve in your fuel line. What can happen is that the fuel leaks past the check valve and back into the tank, which releases the pressure in the fuel rail. When the pressure drops low enough, the remaining fuel in the line vaporizes, and acts like a stopper in the fuel line. The fuel pump can't pump fresh fuel into the line, but the injectors only have fuel vapor to spray into the cylinder. This is why it sounds like it wants to start, but there isn't enough gas to actually run on. After you leave it for a bit, the fuel line cools down and the fuel condenses back into a liquid state and you can start the engine. Find out where you check valve is (could be in the fuel rail or the fuel pump) and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1591" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T13:01:52.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35877" CreationDate="2016-09-01T13:42:06.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose it depends on a wet or dry clutch. A wet clutch doesn't have a thrust bearing and so you cannot &quot;ride it&quot;. &#xA;A dry clutch has a thrust bearing so the diaphragm on the clutch is pressing on it while it spins at engine speeds. There's no way of lubricating the bearings in the bearing case in the dry clutch,  so there life is reduced every time the clutch is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12694/what-are-the-differences-between-a-wet-motorcycle-clutch-and-a-dry-motorcycle-cl&quot;&gt;What are the differences between a wet motorcycle clutch and a dry motorcycle clutch?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21872" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.880" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T13:42:06.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35879" CreationDate="2016-09-01T14:16:28.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;CDI means &lt;em&gt;Capacitor Discharging Ignition&lt;/em&gt;, which already describes the principle of work quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a single capacitor charged to about 300-500V. This voltage comes from the 12V system via a voltage converter, or from special high voltage windings in the alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon a trigger signal, the capacitor is discharged via the ignition coil, which can be a separate device, but can also be integrated into the CDI unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This needs not more than three electronic parts, but in reality, there is more. For example, the trigger signal sometimes comes from a pickup coil and has to be conditioned first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is more: To improve power, ignition should take place earlier at high RPM and later at low RPM. If a CDI is capable of this, the trigger occurs early and the ignition is delayed by the CDI depending on the current RPM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way around, a CDI can be used to limit the max RPM and so max. speed by delaying the ignition so much, that the motor doesn't gain any power from the combustion. One reason might be to protect the motor from too high RPM, but often, this is used to fulfill legal restrictions. For example, 50cm² vehicles are limited to 45km/h in europe, and in the past, 125cm² had to be limited to 80km/h for drivers below 18 years.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Today the CDI contains a microcontroller in this case, which allows to set the max. RPM very precisely. That scooters run exactly 45.000 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your mechanic has a &quot;better&quot; CDI, it either doesn't actively limit the max. RPM, or it has a better timing at higher RPM, allowing more power output and hence top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T14:16:28.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35871" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:05:37.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 2001 Corolla that had a similar problem. It was an evaporative system issue. It was hard to diagnose. I could have been anything from a loose gas cap to purge valves, charcoal canister. In frustration I gave up and traded it in for a new Honda Civic (after I got it started that is). Did you have a check engine light and did the dealer check the code? Sounds like the dealer wanted sell you parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T17:05:37.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35863" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:12:19.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the transmission is not required. You may have a leaking input shaft seal on the transmission that is contaminating the clutch plate with gear oil, causing slippage under load. Further to this, the engine rear main seal may also be contaminating the clutch with oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the engine and gearbox oil levels initially, to help diagnose. If these checks are done correctly, and fall within tolerance,then unfortunately the clutch drive plate friction material or pressure plate tension may have worn out with age and needs to be retired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22090" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T17:22:55.487" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T17:22:55.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:18:14.663" Score="3" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to book the car for service as the panel suggests that 'service B is due', but the booking services offer Full service an Interim service to choose from. I guess Service B is one of them, but which one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22091" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T17:18:14.663" Title="What is full service / interim service / service a / service b?" Tags="|service|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25674" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:45:22.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ECM (computer) develops parameters over time during its operating life. One of the most important inputs it requires and uses daily is throttle position. This input controls fuel delivery under load, wide open throttle, idle, transmission kickdown (automatic) and cruise. The problem with throttle position switches is that they are a potentiometer with a moving component to send a signal to the ECU. Over many years this friction wears out the potentiometer, however the ECU retains the parameter information and doesn't much care over time for this wear. However, when you disconnect the battery, this memory is lost and the ECU then has no idea of the throttle position due to the mechanical wear of the TPS. End result being a computer with no idea how to deliver fuel over an operating range. The best solution is to buy or borrow a new TPS from a reliable source, and drive the car for about twenty minutes under various conditions. This causes the ECM to &quot;relearn&quot; and if you keep 12v power constant when you replace the donor TPS with the old TPS, you can return the new TPS to whomever you received it from, and the computer will be back to its old self. The end result is your car is running fine (for its age!) and you wont have any starting issues with your new battery!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, the acronyms &quot;ECU  and &quot;ECM&quot; are the same item, I use these abbreviations in everyday speak, ECU stands for &quot;electronic control unit&quot; and ECM stands for &quot;electronic control module' they both refer to the same component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22090" LastEditorUserId="22090" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T18:02:45.407" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T18:02:45.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35878" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:52:57.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All those items that do not work are powered by the passenger compartment fuse box, this is powered by the Ignition switch, which is powered by a 40 amp fusible link, I suspect a ignition switch issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBLsP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBLsP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16882" LastEditorUserId="16882" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T18:23:08.137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T18:23:08.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35896" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:59:50.627" Score="5" ViewCount="16985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a used car and aside from the advice &lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/24231/in-the-us-how-do-i-tell-if-a-car-is-in-good-condition?s=1%7C0.2686&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (which is mostly functional) I want to know if the oil has been changed &quot;enough&quot; to prevent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gunk build up that could starve parts from being lubricated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;premature engine wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of a compression test that measures how effectively each cylinder will hold pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: Is that enough of a proxy to ensure there isn't gunk build up (i.e. if there isn't excessive wear on the rings then they've probably changed the oil frequently enough to avoid blockage due to old oil build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: if there is gunk/oil build up, will changing the oil a couple of times (i.e. every 1500 miles for 3 times) provide enough detergent to clean out some mild gunk build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge is I'm religious with changing the oil and had some cars go very very far but I've bought them new and babied them. I'd like to buy a couple of used cars and very much want to avoid buying something that's been abused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything insightful or actionable is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22093" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.900" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T13:05:40.457" Title="Used Car Condition - Is a Compression Test a good proxy of engine health? (and what's a leak down test?)" Tags="|engine|engine-theory|diagnostics|used|compression-testing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35873" CreationDate="2016-09-01T18:31:46.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is building a small model engine like that remotely close to working on a real engine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what vintage real engine you expect to transfer this knowledge to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model engine may have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carburetor instead of fuel injection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distributor instead of electronic ignition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belt driven fan instead of electric fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed valve timing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fewer valves per cylinder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No turbocharger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot more space around it than a modern engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No OBD-II port ;-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think you'd pick up more useful skills by taking an old 4-stroke lawnmower engine apart and then getting it working. It's equally unlike a modern car engine but you'll learn some useful skills. But that's just my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T18:31:46.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28341" CreationDate="2016-09-01T18:48:57.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;initially press the accelerator slowly to the floor. Then wait a few seconds before cranking. Pressing the accelerator slowly uncocks the auto choke without injecting fuel via the accelerator pump circuit, (this gives the rich mixture during slow cranking required for starting, without flooding) . Then next, fire up the engine, let the car idle, and don't try to drive for about two minutes. If this does not work, get someone to check the operation of the automatic choke, because it is not working as advertised. Your sisters engine is a carburetted engine, therefore the mixture and idle speed are set manually by a good mechanic, and if a smooth idle and transition is unobtainable by a qualified mechanic,this generally require a carburettor tune up kit due to wear over time. After this, if your engine is in reasonable mechanical condition the car will run fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Hutch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22090" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T18:48:57.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T21:37:21.067" Score="3" ViewCount="6929" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I WILL APOLOGIZE if I get too lengthy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drove the car, parked and was away from it for about 10 minutes. When I tried to start it, lots of lights came on and went off right away but wouldn't start. It made me think it needed a jump so I put my charger on for 15-20 minutes and nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned off the car and I noticed that the light on the light switch was flashing and clicking. I put my foot on the break and it stopped! I turned off the lights with the switch and the amber lights wouldn't go off. I just unhooked the battery so as I could go on my way with my daughter and to worry about this tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son-n-law looked puzzled when I told him that the car was not making any noise, NO oil lamp light on and was running fine then he said hum, it might be the starter so I bought one and he put it on. Not the problem, but now he said the car was bone dry of oil! That seemed weird because I had just checked it within the last week and it was fine. I am 64 years old and I've never run a car out of oil. He said all he could do is try to turn the engine by hand to see if it is locked up. Done and he could not move the gear but a little and not all the way around which he said he would have to do. He did this without putting oil in the car! The other thing I want to add is that the cars oil was pretty black when I checked it. I checked the oil myself the next morning and it showed 3/4 of an inch on the stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No harm in putting Marvel Mystery Oil and/or Kroil and let it sit two or three days and give it another try? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No harm in trying since he said it was a lost cause, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22095" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T23:07:58.767" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T23:07:58.767" Title="Locked Motor - Can it be fixed without replacing the engine?" Tags="|engine|oil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35889" CreationDate="2016-09-01T22:17:15.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is good to check first if the coolant in the radiator has oil droplets inside, and if the oil (most of the times using the dipstick) has water inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with a compression test you will be able to tell if the piston rigs are still ok, if the valves are sealing the chamber properly. However in order to understand how good or bad the motor is, you will need to have the manufacturer compression specs of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you removed the spark plugs to do the test, you can check them too, along with their leads. From the spark plugs you can tell how rich or lean the mixture is, or if the motor burns oil. Also inspect the leads for damage, especially on their ends that they meet the spark plugs and on the other end that they meet the coil pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally one way you might (depending on the car, 80% of the time that is doable) be able to tell if the motor has done often oil changes is with your engine off, open the oil filler cap, using a torch try to see the camshaft below. If the lobes are clean (no blackish sticky oil on them) then the car had often oil changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above they will give you a quite accurate image of the condition of the engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T22:17:15.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26277" CreationDate="2016-09-01T22:35:09.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;High fuel consumption can be caused by various reasons. The most common ones are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spark plugs, spark leads and coil pack. (You done spark plugs but you might need to check the other two too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocked air cleaner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes might be even the brakes causing high fuel consumption by binding. You can check that by lifting the car up and check if the wheels are moving freely when you don't apply the brake. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check also your tire pressure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Faulty O2 sensor (This one, along with some other sensors are better to be checked with the OBD Scanner in order to be sure if they are faulty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you check all those one by one I'm sure you will find the source of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T22:35:09.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35889" CreationDate="2016-09-01T23:15:42.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A compression test will only give you a general idea of engine health&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It WILL NOT help you to understand if there is gunk buildup in the engine&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It WILL NOT tell you if you have a specific issue with your valves or rings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It WILL give you an idea of whether you have good compression or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compression tester will give you an idea of whether you cylinder is maintaining the necessary pressure or compression in order to operate properly.  If you compression reading are below the manufacturer specifications then you will need to further troubleshoot using a leak down tester to discover if it is one of the following that is your issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems you can discover through a leak down test are the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad head gasket&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaking exhaust valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaking intake valve&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bad rings&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a good article regarding how to use a leak down tester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/26384/9164&quot;&gt;What is a leak down tester and what can I do with it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:47:18.920" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T23:15:42.657" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35879" CreationDate="2016-09-01T23:51:25.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limiting revs by design protects your engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rev limiter in an ECU limits the RPM's so the end user will not damage their engine by over revving it and having a valve to piston contact event which is catastrophic.  As well, an inductive ignition will have a longer spark ensuring proper ignition of fuel in the combustion chamber, a CDI ignition can have a more powerful spark with a short longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CG125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your model of bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; was produced from 1976 to 2008.  You will need to provide the model year if you want a truly detailed answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF your mechanic replaced an electronic ignition with a CDI unit and fit points at your crank and removed the signal generator I would be shocked.  If you have an older model of bike that already had a points/CDI system then upgrading it a newer type would make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your question, you stated;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What role does CDI unit play in limiting the revs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CDI does not have capabilities to limit revs.  If you now have a higher top end speed because you can push the engine into redline deeper because the rev limiter was removed from the system then you are potentially damaging your engine due to over revving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have more power, you have more RPM's.  This is not good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the bike is running better then perhaps there is an issue with the original configuration that could have been fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest not pushing the engine deeper into redline in order to care for it properly and prevent any physical damage from occurring to it in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T23:51:25.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32885" CreationDate="2016-09-02T01:12:35.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are two potential issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have too much valve clearance and the sound you hear is valve related.  This is a typical maintenance item and can be rectified by adjusting the valves.  The plate below your pushrods can be removed and the adjustment is completed there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your are hearing your piston - Air cooled motors have extra piston clearance between the cylinder and the piston due to increased expansion due to more heat.  Air cooled engines tend to run hotter.  On many older designs you can hear the piston slapping within the cylinder as it rocks back and forth on the wrist pin.  This is considered normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T01:12:35.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35902" CreationDate="2016-09-02T02:41:52.377" Score="1" ViewCount="2164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do label things but this one got away from me. I feel extra stupid because it's just the in/out from the radiator reservoir but it's shut the whole operation down. I don't want to put the exhaust or fuel tank back on until I can find out where to plug these tubes into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=39062-1107&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwia6NTYxO_OAhVPxWMKHat0ArwQ_AUICigD&amp;amp;biw=1618&amp;amp;bih=957#imgrc=IX5F56u59FY6dM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diagram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a low quality diagram because 39062 and 39062E are chopped in half in the diagram but in reality they're just rubber tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;strong&gt;ONE&lt;/strong&gt; spot to plug in a tube from the radiator. Located:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;radiator -&amp;gt; water pump -&amp;gt; engine -&amp;gt; thermostat housing -&amp;gt; radiator fill cap [TUBE GOES HERE] -&amp;gt; radiator&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I plugged the tube that is on top of the radiator into that because I figure if the thermostat lets more coolant into the radiator than the radiator has room for it will have to overflow into the coolant reservoir.  I'm pretty sure that's right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I go looking for where to plug the tube that attaches to the bottom of the reservoir into and there are no places the tube fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken this bike apart before and I don't remember those lines not fitting. So I'm surprised that I'm having such a hard time finding where to plug the bottom one in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19613" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T03:14:53.627" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T04:31:05.673" Title="Where do the intake/outtake tubes go on a motorcycle coolant reservoir?" Tags="|motorcycle|coolant-reservoir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T03:15:53.750" Score="-1" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;i let someone use my truck that apparently did not no how to drive a stick and limped it home in 2nd gear by turning it off putting it in gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there is no pedal resistance but with the clutch pressed it does release/engage the gear and allow the vehicle to start and take off while turning the key but it is hard to get out of the gear without pressing in the clutch even though it feels like there isn't one and WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR NO MATER HOW HARD I TRY ONE OUT OF THE GEAR I TOOK OFF IN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22099" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T04:39:23.870" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T04:39:23.870" Title="No pedal resistance in the clutch - 1998 Ford Ranger" Tags="|ford|clutch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-09-02T15:56:28.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35900" CreationDate="2016-09-02T03:24:10.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You plug the tube from the radiator into the coolant reservoir&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two plugs on the coolant reservoir&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vent&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the intake will fill from the bottom of the reservoir and the vent will vent from the top or just near the plastic lid you can open.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brief Explanation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intake plug from the radiator needs to sit at the bottom in order to draw fluid.  If there is air in your cooling system it will expand dramatically under high heat conditions and will eventually get to the highest point in your cooling system, which is wear the radiator cap is on your radiator.  The expanded air will push the spring loaded seal of the radiator cap up allowing for high pressure steam and water to exit the system into the reservoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the hose to connect the radiator to the plug on the reservoir that is lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a second hose to connect to the highest vent hole and use this as a vent.  It will route down to exit at the bottom of the motorcycle.  The hose may even be routed from your disassembly within the fairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagram Explanation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;49085 has a label within the box.  B with a circle around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the hose labeled 92037 it has a B with a circle around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are your connection points.  The lower nipple of the reservoir to the radiator.  The upper nipple as an atmospheric vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPceL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPceL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T04:31:05.673" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T04:31:05.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36142" CreationDate="2016-09-02T04:21:02.573" Score="4" ViewCount="4370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6.  When I was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the car hesitates when accelerating. When I accelerate it looks like it wants to stop, the RPM's goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. The RPM goes up and down like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When idling,  the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays at around 900 RPM's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car has 158K miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtube.com/watch?v=dvpoJZeiOlc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;uploaded a video&lt;/a&gt; to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate the RPM's jump up and down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;when i scanned for codes again it seems like other cylinders are sometimes misfiring as well 1, 3 and 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed all 3 ignition coils still the same issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22101" LastEditorUserId="22101" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T04:48:44.167" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T05:58:32.017" Title="Hyundai Santa Fe 2004 3.5L Random Misfire hesitates when accelerating" Tags="|troubleshooting|hyundai|misfire|dtc|santa-fe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35901" CreationDate="2016-09-02T04:34:19.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If memory serves me correctly the Ford Ranger is a hydraulic clutch. First thing I would check is fluid leaks the clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the lines that interconnect the two. Second check if there is any fluid in the cylinder. Low fluid could introduce air in the line and that could cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16764" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T04:34:19.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34813" CreationDate="2016-09-02T05:13:16.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;He actually just scrapped the car because it suddenly wouldn't pull&#xA;  in any gear and the fluid had so much metal in it and it was just too&#xA;  far gone to put the amount of money and time it'd take to find and&#xA;  replace the tranny since its pretty much a disposable car to begin&#xA;  with. In my opinion the intrepid was a failed experiment anyway and&#xA;  without my opinion being spoken to him I think he came to that&#xA;  conclusion too. Thanks for all the help though guys.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP made effort to report closure to this situation.  This question is not useful in the database and probably should be closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T05:13:16.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35880" CreationDate="2016-09-02T06:04:47.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is more like a murder mystery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe a few things have happened&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wires have been routed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Connectors have been connected&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike gets ridden, it smokes the wiring loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, there is smoke coming from under the seat.  The seat had been removed and replaced.  Is it possible a wire became pinched in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Routed over the top of the frame where a seat might expect to be mounted on perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frequently, when looking for issues it's best hit the rewind button regarding all the last changes to the device you are attempting to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a wire was routed incorrectly and pinched under the seat due to poor routing which resulted in your configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T20:14:30.373" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T20:14:30.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35908" CreationDate="2016-09-02T06:50:31.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am putting on a used ac compressor and as of right now it does not have any oil in it. Should I put oil in it and if so can I use transmission oil or will the 134a refigerant do the job? I am putting the ac on a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22102" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T08:30:58.937" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T17:28:01.383" Title="Does my ac compresser use oil" Tags="|ac|dodge|grand-caravan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35907" CreationDate="2016-09-02T07:14:05.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need the correct PAG oil.  Usually there is a sticker in the engine compartment telling you which oil and how much the compressor needs.  Do not use any other oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11847" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T07:14:05.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2016-09-02T09:28:17.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jip I am Siuth African.. R 8k.. aprox. 600 usd... those parts i found in South Africa Johannesburg and Durban.... but i am sure its imports from Japan .... but you also need to add the fittings  With bosch injectors Aem perfance cpu system, good intake + exhaust system etc...  but after installing a turbo you need a dyno specialist to assist you to have a good condition motor which can easily reach 500hp and stil run healty..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as they said the best way is to go D16A motor ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22103" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T09:28:17.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T09:35:17.753" Score="1" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, so I have a digital fuel gauge indicator on my vehicle. The model and year are mentioned in the title.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge is rarely accurate and it jumps around in values randomly. It just stays about the same during a drive but once I turn off the engine or turn it on, it shows a different value. I have no idea where to start with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind helping me out here guys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22104" LastEditorUserId="7952" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T15:53:19.873" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:54:41.350" Title="Fuel gauge very inaccurate and unstable on Mercedes e200 (Kompressor) 2006 model" Tags="|fuel-system|mercedes-benz|gauges|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21973" CreationDate="2016-09-02T13:12:30.457" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 29 years of driving I'd say tires are third in determining how a car handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. 2. is alignment.  A sporty setup - lots of Caster, etc, will feel tighter/heavier than a family car setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. 1. is level of power steering boost, and if it is constant or varies with speed(less assist progressively, at 15, 30mph, etc.) Modern EPS(electric power steering) motors generally provide more assist per pound of equipment than conventional(hydraulic) does, and most manufacturing engineers OVER-DESIGN &#xA;- build in too much boost - than is really necessary.  This has led to the complaints of 'numb' 'vague' steering you read about in car magazine reviews, and twitchy, constant corrections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car's alignment parameters simply cannot overcome the system's readiness to turn the wheels, and requires, at least, a constant subconscious, and lest I say exhausting effort by the driver to keep the car straight. The YF-class(2011-14) Hyundai Sonata is a blatant example of these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 40 years power steering ceased to be an option and became standard on mainstream cars, I can think of no other factor that has more removed the connection between a driver's hands on the wheel and the road surface.  Above 20mph, there is generally no need for power steering assist (conventional or &#xA;electric).  The first line of safety is to know what your vehicle is doing - how much you are turning the wheels, and in what direction.  Power steering has dangerously reduced a lot of that, for me at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had cheap tires, expensive tires, skinny high-profiles, and fat 55-series &#xA;low-profiles.  And to me alignment and power steering assist level are most &#xA;critical to both straight-line stability and manoeuvrability, and the first step &#xA;to preventing lane incursions, over-corrections, and unnecessary, tragic &#xA;car crashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well designed power steering system would work. One with no boost over 30mph. Power assist is needed only in a parking lot and for tight manoeuvres - like parallel parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At higher speeds, the vehicle's self-straightening forces (Caster, SAI) must be allowed to work, and give drivers feedback of what they and their vehicles are doing. Type of tire is secondary to these geometric forces, although it should be understood that wider, low profile tires respond quicker to steering inputs, and conversely are less stable in a straight line at speed. Therefore, either less power steering assist or more aggressive alignment angles are required for what I feel are &quot;looks&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22107" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2016-11-05T16:35:16.360" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T16:35:16.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T13:41:04.763" Score="4" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Hyndai Elantra Coupe (2013 or 2014, can't remember), and for a time I was changing gears downwards in order to brake (the context is we were taught, in driving school, that you can do this if brakes fail. So I was practicing),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time later, it started making a loud &quot;click&quot; noise whenever I changed gears. Specifically, whenever I release the clutch and a gear is selected (meaning the noise doesn't happen on Neutral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this noise issue is common enough so that it can be diagnosed by merely describing it, and if so, what's wrong with the transmission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22108" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T17:19:27.633" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T17:19:27.633" Title="Clutch noise after changing gears" Tags="|noise|manual-transmission|elantra|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35914" CreationDate="2016-09-02T14:16:15.987" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for ways to track real-time fuel efficiency data while driving, using an app on my phone. Will a Bluetooth OBD adapter generally allow me to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22110" LastEditorUserId="22110" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T14:35:37.020" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T14:35:37.020" Title="Best way to access fuel efficiency data during operation?" Tags="|fuel-consumption|diagnostics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35913" CreationDate="2016-09-02T14:31:59.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the OBD-II port can supply data about average fuel economy and instantaneous fuel economy. There are devices on the market that can be purchased and used for fuel consumption monitoring as well as data delivery on a number of different processes going on in your vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're advised to not suggest specific products on this forum as they are very opinion-based. However, a quick google search can provide you with plenty of options to explore. I'm not sure if you already had an app in mind that you wanted to use, but I assume that google can shed some light on that topic as well. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T14:31:59.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35910" CreationDate="2016-09-02T15:51:18.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like Mercedes uses a float arm and variable resistor system to gauge fuel level. This element is located inside the fuel tank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instrument cluster taken this signal and processes it to determine a fuel level. That process includes a function analysis tool to dampen out fluctuations. You wouldn't want the tank to read empty when going up big hill and empty when going down a big hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the float resistor isn't functioning correctly.  Usually it's a surface type resistor with 'wiper' contacts mounted to the float arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible erratic contact between the wipers and the surface of the resistor element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible bent float arm at the pivot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible 'water logged' float&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible problem in the wiring between the top of the fuel tank and the instrument cluster. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not totally sure about your car but generally the top of the fuel tank is accessible through a panel under the rear seat (on a sedan). I do know lately automakers are deleting the access panels to the point that you have to drop the tank from beneath the car for access. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="7551" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T16:44:23.140" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:44:23.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:24:26.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question about the bearing on the trans. input shaft. The bearing is called a PILOT bearing and although they rarely fail, when they do they usually make a grinding\squeeling sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a pilot bearing fails it can cause severe damage to the transmission input shaft or if it spins with the shaft can cause damage to the engines crankshaft. The most common failure for the noise described is the throw-out or clutch bearing which is more of a rumbly, grinding sound. Both bearing failures are usually only heard when the clutch pedal is depressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22112" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T17:10:19.993" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T17:10:19.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35919" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:47:20.317" Score="10" ViewCount="93015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my car brakes replaced about 2 years ago, since then I've driven about 4000 miles (I work downtown and tend to use public transit) after which I disconnected the battery and stopped using my car (for almost a year). Yesterday I took my car out and went to get an inspection sticker. The guy told me that I need new brakes/rotors and an oil change (despite the low mileage on my rotors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car is a 2004 A4 Audi, I went along with his suggestion but after realizing that he's changing the rotors too (which he didn't mention at first), I'm concerned that he may be doing unnecessary work. The final bill is coming out to be pretty expensive. He says that since the car has been unused for a while, this is expected although most online articles I'm reading are stating that fluid change is enough after car has been unused for several months to a couple years. Unfortunately I don't have a picture in front of me but the condition of my old brakes looks very similar to this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqPwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few articles I found online state that rust on rotors is harmless: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/What-are-some-ways-I-can-remove-rust-from-brake-rotors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.quora.com/What-are-some-ways-I-can-remove-rust-from-brake-rotors&lt;/a&gt;. What would you guys do in this situation? Is the mechanic correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22113" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T18:06:16.623" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T05:57:50.680" Title="Rust on rotors after non-use, mechanic said they need to be replaced" Tags="|brakes|brake-rotor|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35917" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:58:09.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very possible that the rotors are bad.  I had this happen on a car that sat for a bit over a year, the problem was that the rust was not even like in the picture above.  It had formed a much thicker layer under the pads, where they had presumably held in the moisture or condensation was more aggressive.  Stepping in the breaks quickly removes the rust and after that the breaks would pulse, because every time the wheel turned back to that original point the rotor was thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use a lathe to true up a rotor and avoid replacing them, but new rotors being so cheep it often doesn't make financial sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does not say for sure if you are being ripped off in this situation, but it is totally reasonable to expect to need to replace these parts if the car was sitting for a year.  Particularly, if it was outside or in a damp climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:58:09.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35917" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:58:25.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a second opinion. It's quite possible that your rotors have developed rust in that time. However, if they resemble the rotors in the picture that you provided then they should still be fine. That rust appears to be the same kind that develops inevitably over time with use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a certain thickness that all rotors must be at in order to still be considered safe. Rust on rotors usually isn't a problem unless it is causing issues with your braking. Most times, a little rust on rotors will only wear brake pads a little differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can actually have surface rust removed from rotors with a special grinding machine (called turning the rotors when I worked at a shop) at certain car repair shops (provided they still satisfy the thickness requirement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, I wouldn't replace the rotors if they look like the ones in your picture. Get a second opinion from a different mechanic, have your current rotors turned if you wish, and continue on as you would normally from there. You should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:58:25.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35907" CreationDate="2016-09-02T17:28:01.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor is a device designed to pump vapor/gas and NOT liquid.  When your car was built at the factory, they add a very specific amount of PAG oil to the system.  PAG is actually an acronym for Polyalkylene Glycol, and it is a synthetic oil used in A/C systems to lubricate the compressor. In use the oil migrates around the system as you use your air conditioning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with that said, too much oil is bad; remember I said the A/C compressor is designed to pump gas and not liquid. You can break a compressor by pumping too much liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too little oil is bad;  the oil lubricates the moving parts within the pump to reduce wear and improve durability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've not told us about the conditions under which you are repairing this system.  A trained A/C repair guy would remove the old A/C compressor, carefully drain the oil in the pump into a measuring cup, determine exactly how much oil was removed, and replace the exact same amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand, you live in say a high humidity area, and the A/C compressor was removed years ago, with open lines just sitting there, you would be forced to total drain all the oil out of each and every component within the system.  The oil is very hydroscopic  (meaning it absorbs water) and when it does that it loses its functionality.  Being open to the atmosphere for more than a few hours is bad, really bad for the oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to use special PAG oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If open to the atmosphere for any length of time, the oil within your system is contaminated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have the correct amount of oil in the system.  If you add the entire amount of oil used in the system, without regards to oil already in there, you are doomed to fail.  When you remove the old compressor, you need to carefully measure the amount of oil contained in there, and just replace that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your comment about transmission oil, I strongly suggest that the replacement of refrigerant compressor oil in your vehicle should be handled by an A/C professional. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T17:28:01.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35917" CreationDate="2016-09-02T18:11:49.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if your rotors are anything like the ones in the picture, they are toast. They would either need to be replaced or resurfaced depending on the amount of meat which is left on the (thickness of the rotor). The reason I say they are toast is due to the scoring in the rotor itself. It isn't all about the rust, here. The rust may have exacerbated the situation, but the rotors themselves have some heavy scoring in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rotors aren't thick enough they'd need to be replaced. With the cost of rotors having come down in price mainly due to less expensive Chinese import products, I almost always suggest replacement over refurbishment. This, however, is strictly up to the owner who is paying the bills. A new set of rotors will usually cost only a few dollars more than getting them resurfaced, so it's a great trade off. If you were doing this at home, you have to weigh the amount of time it'd take you to get the rotors down to where the machining would occur, then wait for the job to get done or leave them there and come back for them. It becomes an issue of what is your time worth. Since you are having the shop do it, this tradeoff is much less prevalent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastEditorUserId="4152" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T19:45:42.830" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T19:45:42.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35968" CreationDate="2016-09-02T19:41:30.450" Score="15" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bosch recently made waves when &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoblog.com/2016/08/31/bmw-m4-gts-water-injection-bosch-mass-market/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;it announced plans&lt;/a&gt; to offer the M4 GTS' water-injection system to other mass-produced vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q3C9A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q3C9A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Water Injection Cutaway&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now water injection isn't a new concept; Bruce Crower put the six-stroke engine in the limelight about a decade ago, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/inside-bruce-crowers-six-stroke-engine#ixzz4J82rlDaQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;articles were quick to point out&lt;/a&gt; that it would require a significant supply of clean water:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Preliminary estimates suggest a Crower cycle engine will use roughly as many gallons of water as fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What prompted this question is Bosch's claim that the water tank needs to be replenished &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;once every 1800 miles&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (roughly 2900 km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is an order of magnitude less water consumption. How come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the video in the linked article, it doesn't look like they are doing any recycling/filtration of the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it could be that the amount of water required is teensy-weensy, but I don't see how it would explain the order-of-magnitude difference between this Bosch design and the Crower six-stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T11:37:25.467" Title="How does the BMW M4 GTS achieve low water consumption in its water injection system?" Tags="|engine-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35922" CreationDate="2016-09-02T20:50:40.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.m-power.com/_open/s/varlink2.jsp?id=3301&amp;amp;lang=en&quot;&gt;http://www.m-power.com/_open/s/varlink2.jsp?id=3301&amp;amp;lang=en&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Located in the boot of the BMW M4 MotoGP Safety Car is a water tank with a gross volume of about five litres, which houses the water pump, sensors and valves. The pump and complete system of sensors and actuating elements are controlled by the engine electronics, which have been upgraded accordingly. In practice, the pump feeds the water to the injectors at a pressure of ten bar, whereby the appropriate volume is supplied depending on load, engine speed and temperature. This ensures that water consumption is kept to an absolute minimum. In rigorous action out on the racetrack, it is always necessary to refill the water supply whenever the car must refuel. During standard operation, the intervals between water refills are considerably longer, depending on the driving style. Even when driving faster on the motorway, it is only necessary to refill the water container roughly every five stops for refuelling. To ensure the system is as suitable as possible for daily use, it does not require any additional maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, for normal usage on your car, the amount of water &lt;em&gt;required&lt;/em&gt; to prevent engine knocking is so minimal that a 5 litre tank is sufficient to do a significant amount of mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great question, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22022" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T20:50:40.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T21:34:10.123" Score="3" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter's car was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer because it stalled. All lights came on in dash and it smelled burned. We were given a clean bill of health the next day just to have it towed back again since it died on her again on her way home. This time they said the radiator was empty and the head cylinder warped. We weren't charged the first time but the second bill was $4700 for our 10 year old mechanically sound and well maintained RAV 4. Really???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22117" LastEditorUserId="9164" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T23:11:27.000" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T23:11:27.000" Title="Is engine start failure reason for dealership mechanics to check fluid levels?" Tags="|toyota|gasket|cylinder-head|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-09-03T22:40:55.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35937" CreationDate="2016-09-02T23:39:21.180" Score="3" ViewCount="4704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a lot of devices in my work vehicle that are typically running when the engine is off. I was doing some reading into ways to maintain battery voltage and I read that there was a device that would start the engine to charge the battery if the voltage dropped below a preset amount. I've tried some Googling and haven't found any such device. Has anyone heard of something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22119" LastEditorUserId="22119" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T23:50:52.137" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T18:09:29.917" Title="Start Engine If Battery Drops Below &quot;X&quot; Volts" Tags="|battery|starting|remote-start|voltage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35917" CreationDate="2016-09-02T23:42:26.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem repeatedly. Like you my car often sits unused for months (outside). Bare steel rusts under these conditions, especially if it was parked wet. The problem with rust on rotors is that the rust is more abrasive than the brake pads, so if there is too much rust, it doesn't get removed when you start using the vehicle again, but it cuts gouges into the brake pads so now they aren't flat and that's bad. Once you have such irregularity, it gets worse rather than better so it's important to avoid it, otherwise you'll need new pads &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can deal with this by cleaning the rust off the rotors before significant usage. Whether you can easily clean them back to flat with steel wool or sandpaper, depends how bad the rusting is. The ones in your picture look good enough to me. Note that rotational flatness is very important in brake rotors so hand-sand evenly and not excessively if doing this. It's much better to use a lathe or some similar arrangement if you have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bad rusting you need to get the rotors skimmed. For me this costs slightly more than just buying new ones, but I don't like to throw away really quite new rotors (I was getting new ones every year for a while) so I got them skimmed anyway. The bigger and fancier your rotors the more cost-effective this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one side is rusting but not the other, then you probably have a sticking caliper, which needs either fettling or replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22120" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T23:42:26.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28352" CreationDate="2016-09-02T23:47:41.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the cars, in order to check the transmission oil levels they have two bolts after the transmission bell. The top bolt is for checking and adding oil while the lower bolt is for flushing all the transmission oil and renew it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to check the level of the oil, jack up your car on jack stands in a flat surface, and you unscrew the top bolt. If it spills out oil then the level is fine. If not, you need to add the proper grade of oil till it start spill out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools you will need are, &#xA; - A jack and jack stands.&#xA; - An oil suction gun.&#xA; - A wrench with sockets from 10 and above.&#xA; - Torque wrench (Optional) for tightening up the bolts with the proper torque&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra tip: Sometimes it is good to change the washer of the drain and fill plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T23:47:41.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28940" CreationDate="2016-09-03T00:06:32.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only relation that the water pump might have with the AC is that in some cars they are linked with the same belt and that's all... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way that you could make the AC develop more pressure than the normal, is by either fitting wrong belt or fitting wrong pulleys to wrong pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they fit the water pump wrong chances are that the car was leaking coolant. If it was leaking slow enough to be unnoticed after the test drive but big enough to run out of coolant the next day, then it is possible that the car overheated and had to be recovered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T00:06:32.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37180" CreationDate="2016-09-03T00:27:04.043" Score="1" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some history first, I had oil leaks in almost every top part of the engine. I changed, the cam cover gasket, cam oil seals and I put instant gasket on the cover edges for better sealing. That was sufficient for a while a month or so...Then, after I push the car a little bit more than usual above 4k rpm, it started leaking again. Another clue might be that the leak started after I change oil and oil filter, however I can't figure it out how those might connect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've checked how much is the engine blowby. I checked all the solenoids for the PCV and breather valves. All of them look fine, also the engine doesn't burn oil. Soon I'm gonna do a compression test for extra evidence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to find what exactly is causing this leak before I change anything again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any clue on what might be wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastEditorUserId="22096" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T12:37:36.467" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T18:58:03.443" Title="Mazda mx5 mk1 1990 Cam oil seal leak B6 engine with 167.000km" Tags="|engine|mazda|oil-leak|miata|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-03T00:27:53.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I read the transmission temperature on my 2012 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi via OBD2 (a wifi adapter - using Torque for Android and DashCommand for iOS)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22122" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T01:51:29.713" Title="Dodge Durango Transmission Temperature via OBD2" Tags="|transmission|obd-ii|durango|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19813" CreationDate="2016-09-03T00:45:44.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not an answer exactly but I can't comment yet...sorry for that... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might sound weird but sometimes wrong cam timing can cause overheating of a motor because the combustion is not as efficient as it should. A lot of the heat is trapped inside the chamber and not exiting the cylinder properly. Since you replace the whole cooling system that is the most logical explanation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally make sure that nothing is blocking the airflow to the radiator. The most obvious is in front of the bumper but don't forget the section between the bumper and the radiator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22096" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T00:45:44.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35922" CreationDate="2016-09-03T01:33:36.680" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two major differences in what's going on with either engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Crower engine design utilizes six-strokes to accomplish what